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  <row Id="1" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="81" CreationDate="2010-11-08T20:59:41.587" Score="64" ViewCount="7787" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the minimum equipment to start brewing some good beer at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T12:25:37.370" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T21:46:32.880" Title="What equipment do I need to buy to start making beer?" Tags="|beer|equipment|cider|beginner|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:00:37.133" Score="5" ViewCount="1911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a California Common recipe that I've used successfully in the past on 10/15. I used Wyeast 2112 and made a starter that got going pretty well so I was feeling good about the brew. It's been bubbling in the airlock since then, though it has slowed down by now (bubbles every 30 seconds, roughly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a measurement a week ago, thinking that the gravity would be pretty low since it had been bubbling for awhile, but to my dismay it was still at 1.040 (OG was 1.082).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is there a problem that it's taking so long to get down to a reasonable gravity? Or should I just let it continue to ferment and hope that it gets there eventually? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T23:12:07.877" Title="Primary fermentation taking a long time" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:00:40.163" Score="13" ViewCount="6622" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I like the flavor profile of a yeast in a commercial beer, how would I go about culturing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some very basic lab equipment, but I can buy anything that's reasonably priced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, would it be legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:10:04.447" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T15:59:50.237" Title="How do I culture yeast from a commercial beer? Is it legal?" Tags="|yeast|techniques|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="4" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:01:07.933" Score="0" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1/what-equipment-do-i-need-to-buy-to-start-homebrewing&quot;&gt;What equipment do I need to buy to start homebrewing?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the must-have supplies for brewing your own beer? In addition to ingredients, what types of containers, tools, gadgets, and goodies do you find useful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:01:07.933" Title="Must-have supplies for making one's own beer?" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2010-11-08T21:32:25.147" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="5" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:03:37.380" Score="11" ViewCount="2179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed many extracts but want to get into whole grain brewing.  What equipment do I need?  Any recommendations for beginner / low-cost grain mills?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T21:27:10.857" Title="Best way to mill grains" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="6" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:03:50.873" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would point you to the Basic Starter Kit from Northern Brewer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/starter-kits/basic-starter-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Making Kits&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some items are probably not STRICTLY needed, but for $80 you definitely get all the gear you would need to get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-15T17:05:42.757" LastActivityDate="2016-10-15T17:05:42.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:04:36.800" Score="8" ViewCount="6239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that many of my beers have terrible head retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I improve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually brew lighter hoppier ales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T08:36:53.873" Title="How do I improve head retention?" Tags="|head-retention|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="8" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:08:04.053" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're beginning from concentrated malt or a kit, and can figure out how to boil water on your own,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The bare minimum:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 gallon plastic (food grade&#xA;container) with lid. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Airlock for same. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottles, and appropriate&#xA;closures for them. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic hose for&#xA;siphoning off of finished product.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disinfectant (chlorine or sulfite)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recommended:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 Gallon glass carboy (secondary fermentation and settling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hydrometer (for measuring specify gravity/sugar/alchohol content)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Various gadgetry for siphon - A raiser in the fermenter end to keep out the lees, and a bottling attachment at the bottle end (basically a plastic tube with a ballstop in the bottom)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optional:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filtration device&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pumps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make a decent beer with just the minimum.&#xA;Add the rest as time and budget allow.   Each time you go to the supplier, buy one more thing to make the job easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T15:16:08.477" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T15:16:08.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="9" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:09:11.943" Score="11" ViewCount="6134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just getting started with home brewing. Are some types of beer easier to brew than others? Would you suggest starting with a certain type for my very first brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:54:40.907" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T17:12:19.383" Title="Are some types of beers easier to brew than others?" Tags="|beer|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="10" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="77" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:09:12.950" Score="17" ViewCount="13138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to stop buying yeast all the time, especially when I use the same strain repeatedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is especially a problem when it comes to seasonal strains. I'd like to brew with WLP351 Bavarian Weizen Yeast whenever I'd like, but it's only available around March and April.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would also be nice for our brewing friends in the southern hemisphere that would like to brew with the seasons, but can't because the current seasonals are in sync with the northern hemisphere seasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clarification:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I'm looking for a way to keep the strain indefinitely without potentially changing the strain due to factors like contamination and genetic drift. More of a solution where it would be a one-to-many situation. I'm looking for steps that would show me how to keep a culture from changing over time. Be that using petri dishes or test tubes with agar or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastEditorUserId="12" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T16:19:06.030" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T21:37:59.277" Title="How do I keep yeast from a strain that I've bought?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="11" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:11:42.497" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally don't mill my own grain, my local homebrew shop has a mill and I use it regularly and have produced great beers with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that it's better to mill your grain as close to brewing time as possible, but I would suggest, if possible, delay the purchase of a grain mill a bit. I think you'd be better served by getting a great mash tun or a wort chiller (if you don't already own them)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:11:42.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="12" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:13:15.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine took the yeast cake from a batch he brewed and used that to make a starter for his next batch. Granted, he didn't keep it long term, but I would think that if you got the yeast cake and kept it in the fridge, it would last awhile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would only need to last until you brew again, then you can grab the &quot;fresher&quot; yeast cake and store that in the fridge again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:13:15.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="13" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:14:28.967" Score="6" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some liquid mead yeast that has expired a couple years ago, according to the date on it. It has always been kept in the refrigerator. Could it be revived and used or do I need to buy some new yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:19:28.563" Title="I have some &quot;expired&quot; mead yeast, is it still good?" Tags="|yeast|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="14" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:14:33.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started off with a dark ale, and it turned out pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really depends on temperature more than anything else.  Measure the temperature in your &quot;Brew Closet&quot; over a few days, and tell your supplier what it is and how much it fluctuates.  He or She can recommend a good kit for that temperature range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the bug finally bites you, you can then spend thousands of dollars on climate control so you can brew even the finickiest lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:14:33.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="15" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:15:47.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest with a more &quot;normal&quot; style of beer (don't start with a Barleywine or Double-IPA)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first beer was a partial mash IPA and it turned out pretty well. I also did some partial mash cream ales early on too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, my first batch of all grain was a Belgium Tripple and it was a great beer. The most important thing to think about when first starting brewing (and even after you've got quite a few brew-days under your belt) is to clean and sanitize everything, that's 9/10's of brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:15:47.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="16" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:18:24.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't brewed mead, but having brewed regularly for a couple of years I would suggest not using it. Liquid yeast (for beer) costs about $10 where I am, and I wouldn't risk wrecking a batch because of some old yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:18:24.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="17" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:18:58.400" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increasing head retention can done by increasing the amount of certain proteins. The easiest way to do it is to add small amount of different specialty malts to your beer. 1/2 - 1 lb. of carafoam or carapils will do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware though that this will increase the overall body of your beer as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="35" LastEditDate="2010-11-08T21:25:35.447" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:25:35.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="18" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:19:28.563" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple years is a LONG time :)  I would make a starter with the yeast, if the starter takes off then you're all set. If it doesn't get going, get some new yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are some good instructions for making a starter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beerdude.com/yeast_starter.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.beerdude.com/yeast_starter.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:19:28.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="19" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:20:12.467" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewwiki.com/index.php/Head_Retention&quot;&gt;http://www.brewwiki.com/index.php/Head_Retention&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to do is to stop using soap to wash your glassware.&#xA;Then you can start playing with the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:20:12.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="20" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:22:14.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://schmidling.com/maltmill.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MaltMill&lt;/a&gt; and it really gives me a consistent crush which gives me a fairly high malt extraction efficiency percentage. Around 70-80%. It's definitely a higher end mill at around $150.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a Corona grain mill for around $40-50 with some Google searching. That will work pretty well, but not great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get either of the mills, make sure you modify them to work with a drill or a motor so that you don't have to spend 30 minutes cranking away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just do what Nathan suggested and just get it milled as close to brew time as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun with All Grain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastEditorUserId="12" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T00:04:08.090" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T00:04:08.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="21" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:27:00.363" Score="5" ViewCount="1274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just moved from a Condo into a house, where I am now paying for heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the area that my Domestic Sergeant Major has permitted me to brew in, the temperature varies from 16° to 21° C throughout the day.  What's a good type of beer to brew there until I can install some temperature controls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T03:36:46.147" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T23:46:33.143" Title="What type of beers stand up to temperature variation during fermentation?" Tags="|beer|fermentation|temperature|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:27:32.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak on legality, but I do not believe that a commercial brewery would prosecute a homebrewer for culturing their yeast, it seems like a waste of resources and bad PR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like jscott said if the brewery pasteurizes their beer your out of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I know of many beers that you can culture yeast from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may notice at the bottom some yeast, just pitch this into some sterile wort and place in a sterile 1 pint (1/2 litre) jar and leave in your fridge, take it out before you're ready to brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2010-11-08T21:35:50.130" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:35:50.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="23" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:28:47.957" Score="12" ViewCount="2369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read conflicting opinions on whether or not to re-hydrate dried yeast.  I've had successful fermentation with dried yeast in the past but have not tried re-hydrating.  Has anyone had better/worse experience with one way over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:10:39.860" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T14:48:18.827" Title="Should you rehydrate dry yeast?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|techniques|dry-yeast|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="24" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:29:51.047" Score="8" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;When taking hydrometer readings, is it acceptable to return liquid to the fermenting vessel after taking a reading in a vial? Must the vial/measuring cylinder and hydrometer have been sterilised to make this an acceptable practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:35:06.247" Title="Sterilisation processes when taking hydrometer readings" Tags="|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="25" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:30:23.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This winter I'm going to try brewing more steam beers, which are ales that use lager yeasts. The lager yeasts don't require high temps so you don't need to worry about keeping the fermenter warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:30:23.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="26" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:31:38.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put the liquid back in, just because I don't want to lose a pint or more across all the readings. To do this I sanitize the hydrometer and the thief,  inside and out, before taking the sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:31:38.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="27" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:32:01.883" Score="9" ViewCount="743" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an abundance of apples this time of year (admittedly getting thinner now), and I would like to try a decent hard cider, but in the past I've had serious troubles with  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cloudy results&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Odd flavors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Muted cider tastes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I've generally attempted to pretend that I'm still following the ale tradition, perhaps this is part of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T13:40:27.513" Title="How do I prevent off-flavors in ciders" Tags="|cider|ale|cloudy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="28" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:32:45.933" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a porter as your first beer (assuming it is a style that you like). There are a few reasons for this suggestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Porter is an ale and ales are going to be easier than lagers due to equipment requirements.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A porter is going to have a fairly simple recipe/grain bill. Fewer variables to work with mean fewer chances to go wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chocolate malt has a strong enough flavor to mask some more minor flaws that you might encounter. A very light small beer is extremely hard to perfect as even the most minor issues will be fairly evident.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the two biggest non-recipe things I'd keep in mind are be overly anal about cleanliness and use a quality yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:32:45.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="29" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:35:06.247" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't re-introduce from the hydrometer vial, the four books I've read on homebrewing (Papazian, Miller etc...) suggest that you don't because this is a place where you can contaminate your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that there is a large risk because you've sanitized it all, but, I prefer to not take risks I only take a couple hydrometer readings so I don't lose that much beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also take this time to enjoy the flavour of the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:35:06.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="30" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:35:34.123" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;See this page from How to Brew:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-7.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which also references this page from How to Brew:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also yeast slants are a good way to store yeast cultures. Check out this page for instructions on how to make them with agar. You can also use some wort with gelatin in it instead of agar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.antiochsudsuckers.com/tom/YeastSlants.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.antiochsudsuckers.com/tom/YeastSlants.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strike&gt; link rot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still visible at the Wayback Machine:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20110305182125/http://www.antiochsudsuckers.com/tom/YeastSlants.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://web.archive.org/web/20110305182125/http://www.antiochsudsuckers.com/tom/YeastSlants.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it is legal. You have bought the yeast (like buying a dog) and breeding the yeast is your prerogative (like breeding a dog). I have not heard of any patented yeast strains, although someone could patent their yeast strain if it was genetically modified (although even this is being challenged in court right now). So you could even sell the yeast if you so chose, but you may not use any trademarked or copyrighted terms used by the brewery who made the beer in marketing your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="16361" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T15:59:50.237" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T15:59:50.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:36:01.877" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would always recommend creating a yeast starter - with dry or wet yeast.  A small 500 - 1500 ml starter helps the yeast get off to a great start in the new brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a starter - pour 1 L water in a small pan, add 1/4 pound dried malt extract, a teaspoon of yeast nutrient and about half a hop pellet.  Boil this for 10 minutes - then cool to about 70 degree Fahrenheit.  Pitch your yeast in this and wait 1 day before using it for your new batch of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will help any yeast, wet or dry, but especially dry, as there are typically not enough cells in the dry package for a proper pitching rate.  It also tends to produce a cleaner, better fermenting beer that floccuates more fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:36:01.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="32" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:38:25.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd be best to check on the yeast package for the optimal fermentation temperature range.  Both Wyeast and White labs have this info on their respective websites.  There you can find the range, and figure what type of yeast will work best.  Generally, the cooler the fermentation temperature, the cleaner, but longer the fermentation will take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:38:25.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="33" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:38:52.987" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hygiene Hygiene Hygiene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Champagne yeast works well with apples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pasteurize of the juice.  There's a lot of nasties in natural fruit that will spoil the batch.  Purists will probably tell you not to pasteurize, but I feel it's a necessary step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  This link says to pasteurize between 185 (85) to 200 (93) degrees.  So the 165 degrees mentioned in the comment is probably not sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mars.ark.com/~squeeze/7D-cider.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mars.ark.com/~squeeze/7D-cider.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T13:40:27.513" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T13:40:27.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="34" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:40:29.057" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had any experiences with the new Wyeast Private Reserve yeast strains.  I just bought a Cask Ale, and wondered if anyone had tried a beer with it yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:40:29.057" Title="New Wyeast private stcok yeast strains?" Tags="|yeast|ale|beer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2010-11-09T01:10:49.830" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="35" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:41:34.907" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, this is legal. You're fine on that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, as mentioned before, not all beers have live yeast in them from which you might get a culture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, some breweries bottle with a yeast different than they ferment with, so it is possible that you'd end up culturing a stain that does not have the profile you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, if you have a bottle conditioned beer that you'd like to culture yeast from, you'll want to get a petri dish with agar, an inoculating loop and an alcohol lamp. Sterilize the loop in the alcohol flame, dip it into a fresh bottle of beer (the yeast will be in better condition) and run it lightly through the agar in a zig zag pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let this sit for a while. You should see some pure white colonies form. The should be growth from a single or few cells of the yeast. You could then use to build up a starter in several stages (you'll need to start with just a few MLs of unfermented wort to build up the cell count) to get large enough to pitch in a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:41:34.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="36" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:45:57.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I do is sort of like the previous answer, but it is a bit of a more long term solution.  Basically this is the process - I create a yeast starter - 1000 ml of yeast, whether pitching a dry or wet yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then sterilize (by cooking it in a pressure cooker) a test tube and cap.  Before I pitch the yeast into the wort, I pour a test tube or two.  I keep these in the fridge, and up to 6 months later, you can then create a starter from one of these.  That way you can recycle your yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you're careful and take precautions to keep a sterile work area when creating the test tubes, you shouldn't have any problem.  This isn't as long term a solution as creating slants, but it is much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the day before I brew, I take one of the test tubes out of the fridge, create 1000 ml of wort, pitch the yeast to create my starter, and begin the process all over again.  As long as you use the year fairly often - perhaps every couple of months, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:45:57.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="37" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="85" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:52:42.867" Score="6" ViewCount="1589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed a number of all grain beers and have been reading a bit about decoction mashing. However the explanations I've read have been a bit complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I do a decoction mash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T18:18:36.980" Title="How do I do a decoction mash?" Tags="|decoction|mash|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="38" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:53:25.167" Score="3" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to brew up a holiday batch to bring to parties and give as gifts, etc. Any suggestions on a good one? I'm thinking a cranberry beer might be surprising and delicious...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T04:36:33.673" Title="Good holiday beer recipes?" Tags="|beer|holiday|fruit|spices|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2010-11-10T04:45:09.627" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="39" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="44" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:54:29.763" Score="4" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why should I use a Decoction mash instead of a Single Temperature Infusion mash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T19:44:33.090" Title="Why should I use a Decoction mash instead of a Single Temperature Infusion mash?" Tags="|decoction|mash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="40" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="38" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:55:32.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to sip a nice warming barleywine or high gravity chocolate stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T21:55:32.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="41" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="58" CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:58:14.630" Score="9" ViewCount="36186" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that all red wines are stored in green or occasionally other dark coloured bottles and white wines in clear or light coloured bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="54" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T23:44:58.427" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T18:12:22.987" Title="Why do red wines tend to be stored in green bottles and white wines not?" Tags="|bottles|wine|red-wine|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="42" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:00:40.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, any ale is easier than brewing a lager: it takes less time, and can ferment at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the smaller the number of ingredients the easier it is too, so that rules out anything with ingredients that need to prepared (ground up), steeped, or added the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A basic Amber or Pale would be the easiest, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:00:40.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="43" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="47" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:03:44.637" Score="13" ViewCount="12005" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to reduce my cost-per-beer, without investing in an all-grain setup. I know I'm pretty limited with what I can tweak (can't get around needing sugar, yeast, and hops), but here in Montana it runs about $40 for each batch (even using Muntons yeast!). I'd like to reduce that if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips or tricks out there? Recommended places to shop? Brands to buy? Secret techniques I can't even imagine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T05:35:13.707" Title="How do I cut my extract brewing cost?" Tags="|beer|extract|cost|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="44" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="39" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:07:24.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most all-grain homebrewers actually use multiple infusion mashes, usually with two steps (amylase rest and mashout).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with decoction mashes are that they are a lot of work, lead to a slightly darker and slightly drier beer that keeps its hop aroma for a longer time, as compared to infusion mashes.  I attribute the hop aroma issue to driver off oxygen in the boiled portion of the decoction, resulting in less HSA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="58" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:07:24.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="45" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2730" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:08:39.687" Score="43" ViewCount="18717" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sanitize everything; carboy, bottles, bottle caps, tubing, funnels, etc; because I was essentially told that my beer would turn to deadly poison without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I accept sterilizing the lot once because I understand the complications of infections, but how anal do I have to be after that point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I wash my hands regularly do I need to sanitize them as well? Do I even need to wash regularly, between touching everything?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to sanitize the rim of the mouths of bottles?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to resanitize equipment mid-use if it's been left out for a while (minutes, not days)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I sanitize bottles in advance?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If equipment is cleaned and put away clean, can it just be rinsed and used without sanitizing next brew?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not looking for answers to only these exact questions, but the experience of long-time brewers who can offer some anecdotal evidence would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:29:13.907" LastActivityDate="2017-10-28T14:07:54.490" Title="How likely is contamination in an average batch?" Tags="|beer|equipment|sanitation|cider|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="46" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:11:40.167" Score="18" ViewCount="47943" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just getting started, so in my first couple batches I realized I had a problem cooling the wort all the way down to 60°F/16°C recommended by my instructions.  I boil all of my water, but I don't have all day to let it cool before introducing the wort, which also needs to cool. Please let me know if I'm doing anything totally wrong or can be done better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best I've been able to do in the shortest amount of time is boil my water, let cool for 15 minutes and dump into my sterilized plastic fermenter pail. I place the pail in a utility tub full of cold water to cool while I start the wort.  After the wort is done boiling, I place that vessel in a bath of ice water in the sink.  I bring it down to 90°F/32°C before racking into the pail.  By this time, the entire mixture is about 90°F/32°C.  When I take my original gravity reading, it's always way off the mark from recommended due to temperature.  I adjust my reading to 60°F/16°C reference temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pail is then pitched with yeast, sealed, placed in basement, and airlocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is there any harm to start fermentation while warm?  Will this affect the beer quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Is there any harm to let the wort sit longer to cool before going into the fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastEditorUserId="3022" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T13:04:02.650" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T06:17:24.967" Title="Is it OK to starting fermentation while wort is still warm?" Tags="|beer|temperature|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="47" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="43" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:13:02.177" Score="12" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reuse your yeast&lt;/strong&gt;. If you're making multiple batches of the same beer, or even two different beers that require a similar yeast strain, you can pitch your (chilled) wort directly onto the yeast cake from the previous batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not planning to use the yeast again right away, you can wash the yeast and store it for later. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/yeast-washing-illustrated-41768/&quot;&gt;This topic&lt;/a&gt; on HomebrewTalk illustrates the process really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as Dominic commented below, breweries are often happy to give you some of the yeast they use to produce their beers. If you live near a microbrewery, see if you can stop by and ask for a cup (or growler!) of yeast slurry; it will go a long way, especially if stored properly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transition to partial-mash brewing&lt;/strong&gt;. You don't need to go all-grain to start using grain in your recipes. Doing partial mash recipes will allow you to substitute some of the malt extract with grain, and if you buy some 2-row in bulk you can cut your costs a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partial mash brewing doesn't require a whole lot more than extract brewing. You'll need some muslin or nylon bags to hold the grain, and you'll do a partial mash step before boiling (usually just soaking and rinsing a bag of grain for an hour).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;$40 per batch seems high. Look for deals and specials at large online store like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/&quot;&gt;Midwest Supplies&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://austinhomebrew.com&quot;&gt;Austin Homebrew&lt;/a&gt;, and look for a local homebrew supply store if you haven't already.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are your friends enjoying the fruits of your labor? Have them toss in a few bucks toward the next batch ;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2010-11-08T23:45:58.377" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T23:45:58.377" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="48" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:20:45.900" Score="6" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which are the essential podcasts that should be on my ipod right now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T17:06:32.060" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T17:06:32.060" Title="Which brewing podcasts do you listen to?" Tags="|beer|media|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-09T02:09:19.140" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="49" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:23:04.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brew Strong, The Sunday Session, and The Jamil Show.  All are on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Brewing Network&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:23:04.897" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-09T02:09:19.140" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="50" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:24:01.173" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I listen to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Basic Brewing Radio&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:24:01.173" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-09T02:09:19.140" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="52" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:24:24.957" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pitching yeast into wort that is too warm can cause a number of problems. At the very worst, you'll shock the yeast and/or kill it, and you'll have a stuck fermentation. Another problem with pitching too warm (and maintaining fermentation too warm) is that it can cause the yeast to produce unwanted off-flavors in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Letting the wort sit longer to cool isn't desirable; the wort needs to be chilled quickly for two main reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allowing the wort to cool on its own gives bacteria a chance to take hold. There are bacteria that thrive at high temperatures, and leaving the wort too hot increases the chance of infection (not to mention anything that might find its way into the wort during the long cooling time).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chilling the wort quickly causes what is called the &quot;cold break&quot;, where proteins in the wort clump together due to the rapid temperature change and flocculate out. Without the cold break, these proteins remain suspended in the wort (and subsequent beer), and lead to chill haze.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I usually chill my wort down to about 70-75°F/21-24°C and pitch. Aeration before pitching (pouring from high above the fermenter, shaking, etc.) usually helps bring the temp down a few more degrees as well. 90°F/32°C is too warm to pitch IMO, but 60°F/16°C is probably lower than necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If boiling/cooling water for topping off is a problem, you might want to consider purchasing bottled water or boiling/chilling your top-off water the day before. As for the wort, I did the &quot;ice bath in the sink&quot; method when I did extract batches, and while it works ok to an extent, I recommend building/buying a wort chiller when you have the time and money, because it will save you both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="3022" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T13:04:16.410" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T13:04:16.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="53" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:25:03.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both questions resolve to the same issue - there's a chance of something other than your yeast taking over the nice environment you've made for microbes. By not letting it cool sufficiently, you risk killing off enough yeast that something else can muscle in. Unfortunately, the longer you let the wort sit before pitching your yeast, the more likely that something else can take hold as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, proper sterilization and sanitation can help prevent the second problem. I've made a whole lot of beer that I didn't pitch the yeast for a good 8 hours without problems. Eventually, I figured that the risk wasn't worth it and made a counter-flow wort chiller (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strandbrewers.org/techinfo/chillers.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; for info on wort chillers). It was much cheaper than buying one, and pretty easy to build. The only precaution is that you must carefully filter your wort before it goes through the chiller, as it clogs easily enough on hops, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/projects-and-equipment/article/indices/20-build-it-yourself/365-build-a-counterflow-wort-chiller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; has a pretty good description of building a counter-flow cooler from scratch, although it occurs to me that I bought a set of fittings for about $20. The rest is the same - 50 feet of copper tubing, and 50 feet of garden hose. The nice part is that it's insanely easy to get wort into your primary fermenter at whatever temperature you want, given sufficient flow of cold water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:25:03.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="55" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:29:49.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I've done partial mashes and extract kits I haven't boiled my water (I know, bacteria and chlorine etc...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I trust my water source and &lt;strong&gt;I have not&lt;/strong&gt; had any infections from this (YMMV). So it is a possible change in your current process which may speed up your brew day significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also look into a &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/search/102202/beerwinecoffee/coffeewinebeer/Wort_Chillers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Immersion Chiller&lt;/a&gt; they're relatively inexpensive and this would allow you to have the best of both worlds (speed and sterile)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:29:49.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="56" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:31:49.383" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been keeping my yeast for well past three months in the fridge with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I've been doing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to brewing, I sterilize about a dozen jelly jars (Bell brand) in boiling water.  Once they have been boiled for at least 10 minutes, I quickly remove and drain them (using a boiled set of tongs).  I set them upright on a cooling rack and place the lids and screw caps on top (also boiled).  I then use oven mitts to tighten the screw caps down.  Let them cool and you will hear them all 'pop' as the air shrinks and forms a vacuum and the lid tightens down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now store all those jars in a cool, dry, and dark location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you rack a beer from primary to secondary, and you want to keep some of that yeast strain, just leave a little beer in the bottom of the bucket with the yeast cake.  Swirl it all around to create some mud.  Then pop open a jelly jar and quickly pour the mud into the jar (straight from the bucket, no utensils).  Cap the jar again with the same lid and put the screw cap on it.  Place it in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when you are ready to start a new batch, use it just like it was a vial you bought at the store.  Let it warm to room temp.  Pitch it into a yeast starter.  You don't need the whole amount of yeast in there.  About the same amount you would use from a vial.  Throw the rest out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware that there will be CO2 in the jelly jar so when you uncap it, you may get quite a bit of foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this is not a perfect way to do this.  But I have had success with this method.  I have repitched my yeast up to six generations with no noticeable issues.  About three to four months in the fridge has never been an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:31:49.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="57" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:32:52.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look into Keeving. A brewer at my local club made an excellent, bright, crisp cider using this method. It may seem complicated but it's really quite simple (providing you can get hold of the PME enzyme it's just a matter of letting fermentation happen naturally and having patience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read this link for details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cider.org.uk/keeving.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cider.org.uk/keeving.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:32:52.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="58" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:33:24.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The commonly repeated belief is that green bottles are better at keeping sunlight out and whites don't need this because they are often refrigerated. I never put much stock into this since worldwide refrigeration was not always common and a most wine is stored out of sunlight anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few winemakers in Sonoma told me that it was tradition based on the reasoning that reds were stored in darker bottles to hide the natural sediment that came along with those styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know which, or if either, is true, but I'll tend to believe the tradition story over the UV-blocking reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:33:24.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="59" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:34:17.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/yeast-washing-illustrated-41768/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This is one of my favorite topics&lt;/a&gt; on HomebrewTalk that describes the process of washing and storing yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:34:17.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="60" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="66" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:36:49.027" Score="6" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a website I can visit that will describe where different off-flavors come from? For instance, if the beer tastes malty, fruity, or bitter, where can I go to determine why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-12-31T14:24:01.813" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T01:56:53.830" Title="How do I determine where the off-flavors of my brew are coming from?" Tags="|flavor|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="61" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="111" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:38:54.923" Score="9" ViewCount="1973" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do hoppy beers not need to be aged?  About how long does it take a hoppy beer to get to its maturation point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T03:31:28.017" Title="should hoppy beers be aged?" Tags="|beer|hops|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="62" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:41:27.190" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't underestimate the affect good temperature control will have on your beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not &lt;em&gt;strictly&lt;/em&gt; necessary I believe to make good beer you should invest in some kind of fridge/freezer with a temperature controller. Often this can be done fairly cheaply if you can get hold of an unwanted fridge and pick up a cheap temperature controller from eBay or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before moving from kit to all grain brewing adding consistent temperature control during fermentation was the single thing that made the biggest improvement to my beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:41:27.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="63" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:42:47.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, unless you want the bitterness to fade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oils and compounds from hops break down over time, resulting in a gradual decline in bitterness and hop flavor. The longer you age a hoppy beer, the less hoppy it's going to become. This is why certain styles such as IPAs are better enjoyed fresher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:42:47.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="64" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:46:26.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are probably fine as long as you pitch below 80 degrees.  That should be low enough for the yeast to remain viable until the temperature comes down.  Depending on how much yeast you pitch the first few hours will probably be more important for yeast multiplication than fermentation.  That said,  fermentation temperature is pretty important for your flavor profile and controlling it will help your beer.  The more delicate the beer flavor you are aiming for the more careful you will need to be.  In time as you get more into brewing I would definitely recommend a wort chiller (it speeds things up considerably and gives you a nice cold break)and something to control your fermentation temperature (it will help with stuck fermentation and help you get the flavors you want).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:46:26.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="65" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:50:24.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try the beer as soon as it is carbonated.  Younger beer is usually better.  However, some of my beers have been a little rough in their youth and have definitely improved after a number of months. Hoppy beers do tend to age better than milder ones.  IPA's were originally intended to travel from Britain to India and the extra hops acted as a preservative (they don't taste half bad either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:50:24.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="66" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="60" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:50:55.840" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;How To Brew by John Palmer contains a good summary of common off flavours:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-2.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:50:55.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="67" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="75" CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:52:59.333" Score="8" ViewCount="5793" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using cacao nibs to brew a chocolate stout, should they be added in the boil (if so, when?), in the secondary fermenter, or both? Is there a better ingredient to add to produce the chocolate flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T16:07:18.987" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T16:07:18.987" Title="When brewing a chocolate stout, should the cacao nibs be added in the boil, the secondary, or both?" Tags="|beer|secondary-fermentation|boil|stout|chocolate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="68" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="72" CreationDate="2010-11-08T23:08:32.177" Score="59" ViewCount="23397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always bottled directly after the primary fermentation has finished. What's the point of the secondary fermentation? Can I use a bucket or is it something that really necessitates a glass carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2010-11-14T01:19:49.340" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T14:25:01.290" Title="What's the point of secondary fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|primary|bucket|carboy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="69" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="68" CreationDate="2010-11-08T23:17:55.670" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told that it helps the clarity of the beer, since the sludge from the primary will be left over in the first fermenter. I use a glass carboy for secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also know of many people who bottle right after primary, as you do. If it's working for you, then it's no big deal. Try doing a secondary for a batch and see if you notice a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T23:17:55.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="70" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="43" CreationDate="2010-11-08T23:24:34.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could recommend a place to shop, but you're in Montana and it's in Vancouver BC, so I don't think it would be very helpful.  But if you have access to a store like it which sells &lt;strong&gt;bulk liquid malt extract&lt;/strong&gt;, that stuff can be pretty cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though you said you didn't want to go all-grain, I'd suggest you at least look into it.  It might be cheaper than you're expecting.  I recently started brewing all-grain, and I spent less than $100 on extra equipment.  And if you enjoy brewing, I think you won't regret it -- there is so much more to enjoy.  And a 23 litre (6 US gal.) batch can cost easily as low as $14 or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T23:24:34.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="71" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2010-11-08T23:24:44.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that with your OG it still has a ways to go.  Make sure that you are fermenting at a good temperature for the yeast.  You should let it keep fermenting until there are at least two minutes between bubbles.  I would consider racking it and being patient.  Those big beers can take a while and you don't need the exploding bottles or crazy foam that come with bottling too soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T23:24:44.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="72" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="68" CreationDate="2010-11-08T23:26:16.673" Score="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term &quot;secondary fermentation&quot; is misleading since the purpose isn't to continue fermentation. A secondary stage can be used for any combination of things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clarification&lt;/strong&gt;: racking to secondary gets the beer off the yeast cake and allows more particulates to fall out of suspension. This is often the only reason I use a secondary stage; I like clear beer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dry hopping&lt;/strong&gt;: when making an IPA or other beer where dry hopping is involved, it is almost always done in secondary. If you tried to dry-hop during primary fermentation, much of the hop aroma would be lost through the airlock with the CO2 that escapes during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flavor additions&lt;/strong&gt;: adding things like fruit, spices, coffee, chocolate, etc. is almost always done in the secondary stage. Often this is for the same reason as dry hopping (to ensure the aroma and flavors are retained).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aging&lt;/strong&gt;: if aging a beer for a long time (months to years), transferring it to a secondary removes it from the yeast cake and frees up your primary fermenter for another beer. In cases where a beer is going to be aged for 6 months or more, removing it from the yeast cake also prevents autolysis.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend a bucket since you want to minimize head space to minimize exposure to oxygen. A bucket often provides too much beer-to-air contact, especially if aging a beer for an extended period of time. Some will argue that glass carboys are necessary, but I use plastic carboys and haven't had any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2010-11-08T23:33:18.800" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T23:33:18.800" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="73" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="79" CreationDate="2010-11-08T23:41:38.043" Score="8" ViewCount="5070" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love brewing all-grain but I feel that I could cut down on my costs significantly by purchasing some of my grain in bulk, storing it, and using it as needed. I know a lot of people do this but I'm not sure what the &quot;proper&quot; storage methods are for bulk grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I'd need to store it whole and crush it myself on brewday, which is fine. Are there recommended temperatures, moisture levels, etc. at which it should be stored, or is the usual &quot;cool, dark, and dry&quot; advice enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of keeping a bunch of American 2-row in a large rubber trash bin with a snap-down lid in my garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T20:55:24.103" Title="How should bulk grain be stored?" Tags="|bulk|grain|storage|all-grain|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="74" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-08T23:44:00.693" Score="5" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;A buddy and I have brewed a few batches of beer and they tend to have similar flavors when we're done. Could this be attributed to the water? What are some tests you would recommend doing to ensure the water doesn't cause off-flavors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T00:48:21.937" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T20:10:29.310" Title="Should I test my water?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="75" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2010-11-08T23:50:02.093" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most &quot;Chocolate&quot; stouts get their flavor from a combination of roasted malts - chocolate malt, pale chocolate malt or coffee malt. There are delicious exceptions, like Young's Double Chocolate Stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nibs are dehusked, roasted cacao seeds. They are high in fat (relatively tasteless cocoa butter), which does not add much flavor and which might cause problems with head retention if you put nibs in the boil. Cocoa powder is a much more concentrated source of chocolate flavor and comes without the fat. However, it is a more highly-processed product, which some people would like to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using nibs, you could crack them and soak them in vodka to sanitize and extract any alcohol-soluble flavors, then dump the nibs plus vodka into the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using cocoa powder, then you could add it towards the end of the boil. Beware clumping, because it is very powdery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T23:50:02.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="76" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2010-11-08T23:51:12.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It certainly wouldn't hurt to know what's in your water. It might not matter to you as much right now, but once you hone in on your process and begin experimenting with recipes, knowing your water profile will help you fine-tune your mashing (if brewing all-grain) and fermentation processes, and ultimately, your flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things you'll want to test for include water hardness, pH level, and chlorine, among others. Water hardness and pH will affect your mash, and chlorine will contribute to off-flavors in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T23:51:12.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="77" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2010-11-08T23:56:35.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might also consider culturing yeast on slants. I do this and currently have around 15 different yeast strains in stock that can be ready to go within a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site explains a very similar process to the one that I use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20120708055744/http://www.tigereye.net.au/bluedog/slants.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://web.archive.org/web/20120708055744/http://www.tigereye.net.au/bluedog/slants.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T14:44:35.963" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T14:44:35.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="78" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-09T00:03:33.390" Score="4" ViewCount="1928" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to build a counterflow wort chiller using a hose outside of a copper tube.  There are a great variety of lengths and types available commercially and I have read that many commercial solutions are not long enough to chill properly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the optimal length for a counter flow wort chiller?  It seems that with counterflow, it should not matter whether you are chilling 3 or 5 gallons.  Is this correct?  Do you just need the correct length to ensure that wort entering at ~200 °F cools to &amp;lt;=70 °F by the end?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there any particular construction materials and/or designs that work particularly well?  I am planning to purchase hose rated to up to  212 °F, copper tubing, and T (or similar) fitting on each side to separate hose from tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: What factors affect the flow rate of wort within the chiller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T16:01:38.743" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:01:38.743" Title="Optimal counterflow wort chiller" Tags="|equipment|cooling|wort|chilling|chiller|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="79" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2010-11-09T00:09:04.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My LHBS suggested the trash can idea.  He told me to put the grain in a trash bag, tie that up, the into the sealed trash can for safe keeping.  Should last a while using this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T00:09:04.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="80" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="142" CreationDate="2010-11-09T00:10:35.100" Score="3" ViewCount="647" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having started enough sloe gin this year to last a decade, I decided to use the rest of the fruit to brew some sloe wine. I'm new to brewing, and this might seem like an odd choice, but I have high hoped for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I boiled up 2kg of sloes with 2kg of sugar and not a lot of water, and put it all in a demijohn with some wine yeast provided by more experienced brewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been going a couple of weeks now. It was never very fast, peaking at one glub through the air lock every 30 seconds or so, but it's now even slower. I tried adding more sugar and mixing, but that didn't seem to make any difference. The mixture inside is very dense, dark and strong, so I can't really see what's going on in there. It's also not very wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: should I be worried by this lack of activity, or is it natural for this kind of brewing? Should I be doing anything to fix it, or just leaving it alone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-12-30T00:04:20.783" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T17:29:34.800" Title="Sloe wine: going very slowly" Tags="|fermentation|wine|fruit|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="81" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-09T00:17:06.453" Score="62" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Brewing day&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanitizer&lt;/strong&gt; - To sanitize all of your equipment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6 gallon fermenter&lt;/strong&gt; - For primary fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Funnel or Tubing&lt;/strong&gt; - To transfer from the brew kettle to the fermenter (pour or siphon)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;+3 gallon brew kettle&lt;/strong&gt; - For boiling the mixture and making wort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thermometer&lt;/strong&gt; - To monitor the temperature of the wort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hydrometer&lt;/strong&gt; - To test the original gravity of your batch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paddle/spoon&lt;/strong&gt; - Something to stir the boil with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Timer&lt;/strong&gt; - You need to know how long to boil and when to add ingredients&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ice&lt;/strong&gt; - After brewing, you will need to cool the wort. Putting the kettle in ice water to cool it faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Transferring day (if you transfer)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanitizer&lt;/strong&gt; - To sanitize all of your equipment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5 gallon fermenter&lt;/strong&gt; - For secondary fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Siphon tubing&lt;/strong&gt; - To siphon the beer from your primary fermenter to your secondary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fermenter airlock&lt;/strong&gt; - To lock oxygen out of fermenter while allowing other gases exit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bottling day&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanitizer&lt;/strong&gt; - To sanitize all equipment and bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottles/caps&lt;/strong&gt; - Make sure they are not twist-off bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottle capper&lt;/strong&gt; - How else did you expect the caps to get on?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottle brush&lt;/strong&gt; - If the bottles aren't clean, you'll need to clean them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Siphon tubing&lt;/strong&gt; - To siphon beer from fermenter to bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thermometer&lt;/strong&gt; - To check temperature when recording final gravity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hydrometer&lt;/strong&gt; - To measure the final gravity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Priming sugar&lt;/strong&gt; - Used to carbonate the beer while in the bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottling wand&lt;/strong&gt; - This allows you to easily control the flow while bottling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Nice to haves&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Auto siphon&lt;/strong&gt; - This will make siphoning a breeze&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Log sheet(s)&lt;/strong&gt; - Keep track of what you're doing. This is science after all!&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn2.brewersfriend.com/brewersfriend_extractsheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://cdn2.brewersfriend.com/brewersfriend_extractsheet.pdf&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160804111221/http://homebrewmanual.com/media/Home-Brewing-Record-Sheets.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://web.archive.org/web/20160804111221/http://homebrewmanual.com/media/Home-Brewing-Record-Sheets.pdf&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Checklist&lt;/strong&gt; - Don't forget anything!&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn2.brewersfriend.com/brewersfriend_checklist_extract.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://cdn2.brewersfriend.com/brewersfriend_checklist_extract.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This list is mostly if you plan on doing extract brewing. You might need extra equipment for a full-grain setup. Also, this assumes you are using a kit that comes with necessary ingredients and a muslin bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brew kits, which should supply much of the equipment, are available from various homebrew shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2019-07-27T21:46:32.880" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T21:46:32.880" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="82" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="84" CreationDate="2010-11-09T00:20:05.943" Score="16" ViewCount="15592" Body="&lt;p&gt;What techniques would you suggest for cooling a lager during the lagering phase?  Further, how important is the &lt;em&gt;stability&lt;/em&gt; of that temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:30:49.800" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T15:17:19.890" Title="How do you cool a lager on a budget?" Tags="|beer|lager|temperature-control|cooling|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="83" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="45" CreationDate="2010-11-09T00:22:35.450" Score="24" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I wash my hands regularly do I need to sanitize them as well? Do I even need to wash regularly, between touching everything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. As long as you're not touching the insides of bottles, fermenters etc. you should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need to sanitize the rim of the mouths of bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Dipping the ends of the bottles into a container of your favourite no-rinse sanitiser is all that's required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need to resanitize equipment mid-use if it's been left out for a while (minutes, not days)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, but I would recommend that equipment such as fermenters are sealed up if not in use even for a short time (a piece of cling wrap over the top is sufficient). This will stop dust, insects etc. getting in which could potentially cause an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I sanitize bottles in advance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend it. Clean in advance then sanitise with a good quality no-rinse sanitiser (e.g. Starsan, Iodophor) directly before bottling. When I bottle I setup a little production line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitise CLEAN bottle with no-rinse sanitiser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dip end of bottle in no-rinse sanitiser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cap with cap that has been soaking in no-rinse sanitiser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If equipment is cleaned and put away clean, can it just be rinsed and used without sanitizing next brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally no but it depends on what equipment you're talking about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any equipment that comes into contact with the wort post-boil must be sanitised each and every time it is used (e.g. fermenters, chiller, kegs, bottles, tubes, pumps). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any equipment that will only be in contact with pre-boil liquid or is used to boil the wort (e.g. mash tun, HLT, kettle etc.) must be cleaned thoroughly but does not require sanitising as the process of boiling the wort will kill off any nasties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing kit brewing where there is no &quot;post-boil&quot; stage as such then everything should be sanitised each time you use it. Again I recommend a no-rinse sanitiser for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastEditorUserId="65" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T00:46:22.147" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T00:46:22.147" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="84" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2010-11-09T00:26:56.403" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find a 4.2 cubic feet (or larger) minifridge on craigslist. I usually see them go for around $50 to $70, but YMMV depending on where you live. With the shelves removed, 4.2 cu. ft. should be large enough to hold a carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grab a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/fermenting-equipment/fermentation-temperature-control/johnson-refrigerator-thermostat.html&quot;&gt;temperature controller&lt;/a&gt; and use it with the minifridge. This will allow you to regulate the exact temperature inside, making it perfect for lagering, and for fermenting any other style of beer at the exact temperature you want. The Johnson Controls models are often highly recommended, but if the ~$80 price range is above your budget, I've seen them go on &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=johnson+controls+temperature+controller&quot;&gt;eBay for much less&lt;/a&gt;. You can also check your LHBS or look online -- there are often people getting rid of kegging setups that include them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T00:32:31.590" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T00:32:31.590" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="85" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="37" CreationDate="2010-11-09T00:36:12.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A decoction mash is removing a portion of the mash from the rest, boiling it, and then adding it back into the mash to raise the temperature. It's something akin to today's step mashing. However, you can get better efficiency doing a decoction mash as boiling the grain's cell walls are destroyed and allows for better access to the grains starches by enzymes.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.quaff.org/cyberbrau/DecoctionCalculator.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a link for volume calculations for decoction mashing.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T00:36:12.193" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="86" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="93" CreationDate="2010-11-09T00:40:07.323" Score="6" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;When substituting hops (both varieties and pellet/plug/whole)in a recipe, I would like to keep IBU as close to the recipe target as possible.  However, the best utilization chart I can find is in &quot;Designing Great Beers&quot; (Ray Daniels) and it requires you to know the 60 minute boil utilization of your hop variety.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone aware of a resource that provides either these 60 minute boil utilizations or enough information to complete the IBU calculation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how much variance is there in utilization for a particular variety.  Obviously, the AA can be quite different for the same hop, but I am interested in how consistent utilization during boil is (for an arbitrary amount of time in boil.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T16:13:08.137" Title="Hop Utilization Resource" Tags="|hops|boil|ibu|alpha-acids|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="87" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2010-11-09T00:43:41.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a combination of marketing and tradition. For better or worse you're average consumer expects white wine to come in a clear bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not exclusive however, one example being Riesling which is traditionally bottled in brown glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both white and red wine will change when exposed to light (Google &quot;light struck wine&quot; for plenty of interesting reading) but generally this is not as big an issue for white wine as it is usually drunk fairly young and stored cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T00:43:41.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="88" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2835" CreationDate="2010-11-09T00:52:54.020" Score="44" ViewCount="85266" Body="&lt;p&gt;Digression from &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/68/whats-the-point-of-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s the point of secondary fermentation?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the good rules of thumb for determining a. whether to use secondary fermentation at all and b. when to move from primary to secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preferably any rule of thumb should have both chemical and anecdotal rationale supporting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2017-04-02T18:05:05.927" Title="If/When to move to secondary fermentation" Tags="|beer|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|racking|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="89" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-09T00:55:44.073" Score="13" ViewCount="914" Body="&lt;p&gt;What book would you recommend for a beginner hoping to start with extract recipes or from an extract kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:50:16.907" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:50:16.907" Title="Book for beginners" Tags="|beer|books|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-09T02:08:38.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="90" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:00:04.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8mxHV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The EVERYTHING Homebrewing Book&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1605501220&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The EVERYTHING Homebrewing Book&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T01:14:29.077" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T01:14:29.077" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-09T02:08:38.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="91" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="88" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:03:03.097" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things to consider when racking to secondary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wait for primary fermentation to finish.&lt;/strong&gt; The common rule of thumb is to wait until the gravity of the beer doesn't change over the course of three days. This will indicate that the primary fermentation has completed. However, it's helpful to leave your beer in primary a little longer, even after fermentation has finished, to...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allow the yeast to clean up byproducts in the beer.&lt;/strong&gt; During reproduction and fermentation, the yeast product a number of byproducts that can contribute to off-flavors and instability in the beer. After fermentation is complete, the yeast clean up these byproducts. If you rack off of the yeast cake too early, the yeast won't get a chance to do this housekeeping, and you'll end up with undesirable compounds in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most beers, I personally leave my beers in primary for no less than two weeks--often more for bigger beers--before racking to secondary or bottling. It's always better to leave the beer a little longer in the primary than to rack too early. Autolysis (the process by which yeast break down and die) isn't really a problem for homebrewers, unless you're keeping your beer on the yeast cake for many months to years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T01:03:03.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="92" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="434" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:05:18.400" Score="10" ViewCount="4895" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although the taste of my cider is often excellent sometimes it can be too acidic and hard to drink large quantities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test the acidity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Control the acidity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what pH should it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T01:49:41.613" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T03:44:49.653" Title="How do I stop Cider becoming too acidic?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="93" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="86" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:05:35.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a tough one to get right as there are a few formulas for calculating IBU's. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rooftopbrew.net/ibu.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; includes a description of the two main ones and an online calculator you can use to get the numbers you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that none of the formulas are perfect and will give different IBU readings. It's important to choose one and adjust to taste from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding variance for a given variety from what I've read there shouldn't be much and if there is it's likely to be hard to find out or calculate. Trial and error may be your best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T01:05:35.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="94" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:06:34.513" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;John Palmer's &quot;How to Brew&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; is one of the most recommended books for anyone starting out with brewing. He goes over the process, the ingredients, and everything else you need to know to start out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's available &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online for free&lt;/a&gt;, or for about &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381888&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;$15 on Amazon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9IGh.png&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T01:14:14.940" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T01:14:14.940" CommentCount="7" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-09T02:08:38.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="95" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:10:17.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Complete Joy of Homebrewing&lt;/em&gt; by Charles Papazian seems to be a perennial favorite that is more colloquially written.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How to Brew: Everything You Need To Know To Brew Beer Right The First Time&lt;/em&gt; by John J. Palmer is the cautious beginners guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Complete Handbook of Home Brewing&lt;/em&gt; by David Miller is a classic guide&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously everyone will have a personal preference, but those three seem to be fairly prolific and well reviewed in the community.  If you just want to brew a kit and get started, the Internet and/or the guide that comes with equipment kits will likely suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T01:10:17.130" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-09T02:08:38.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="96" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:10:38.427" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RtRoK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The complete joy of home brewing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0060531053&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Complete Joy of Home Brewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T01:10:38.427" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-09T02:08:38.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="97" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:13:37.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My favorites are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt; by John Palmer (http://www.howtobrew.com/)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0965521907&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrewing Volume 1&lt;/a&gt; by Al Korzonas (http://www.amazon.com/Homebrewing-I-Al-Korzonas/dp/0965521907)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0060531053&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Complete Joy of Homebrewing&lt;/a&gt; by Charlie Papazian (old classic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any one of the above should be adequate, but having a few different ones for reference is a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Palmer one is available online, but I much prefer my paper copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T01:13:37.420" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-09T02:08:38.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="98" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:22:01.047" Score="9" ViewCount="39870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't been able to find any reliable recipes or even rules-of-thumb when deciding the amount of sugar to juice ration in cider and perry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know some approximations for sweet and dry versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T01:45:49.117" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T10:09:21.040" Title="Approximating Sugar to Apple Juice ratio in cider?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="99" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:34:06.720" Score="4" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing is a science and it is important to keep track of details in order to make improvements to your process and techniques, resulting in better beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you keep track of your process? Do you use a notebook and write out your details? Do you have a pre-made form that you fill out? Do you blog about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you recommend for the novice brewer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T03:50:10.643" Title="What methods do you suggest for logging the brew process?" Tags="|log|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="100" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:39:42.550" Score="13" ViewCount="13698" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I use glass carboys because the glass seems easier to keep sanitary and you can fill them with your spare change if you ever stop brewing. I'm wondering if having a bucket would be an upgrade or a downgrade. What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2017-10-17T16:22:45.120" Title="What are the advantages and disadvantages of Buckets vs Carboys?" Tags="|bucket|carboy|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:45:34.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine it would hurt to test your water if you're using it straight from the tap. We generally use cheap 25c a gallon grocery store drinking water and we've had good results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T20:10:29.310" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T20:10:29.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="100" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:47:38.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buckets are definitely easier to clean, since you can actually get in there and rinse and scrub, but if the plastic gets scratched, you might never be able to fully sanitize it again, as bacteria can get down into the scratches and avoid the sanitizer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal preference is to use a carboy for the main fermentation work, as I can actually see into it and monitor the fermentation and settling.  I use a bucket, but only as an intermediary between the carboy and the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T01:47:38.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="78" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:56:44.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cooling rate is going to depend on how cold your cold water is and the flowrates of the hot wort and the cooling water.  From my experience, I've had a hard time finding food-grade hose that can handle boiling liquid and still seal reliably against a plain copper hose.  If you can get a barb fitting, you'll have an easier time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I should clarify--the hose that you use for the outer portion shouldn't matter.  As long as you have a reasonable flowrate for your cooling water, you shouldn't have to worry.  You will, however, likely want some sort of heat-resistant hose for getting the wort from your brewkettle into your wort chiller.  I've been using polyethylene, because it's the only food-grade hose I can find locally that can handle the heat, but it does a miserable job sealing against the fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T16:14:51.893" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T16:14:51.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="100" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:57:30.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest downside to the carboy I've found is in checking the specific gravity to tell if the initial fermentation is done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hydrometer simply falls too far to read well. We had to attach some dental floss to it so we could retrieve the thing! This was especially true during our last brew which had a VERY active fermentation with lots of stuff bubbling out through the airlock. This left a residue all over the inside of the carboy which made it especially difficult to check the specific gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had my way, I'd do my initial fermentation in a bucket and then an optional secondary fermentation in the glass carboy (mostly because we already have it and it looks pretty in there :)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T01:57:30.990" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="100" CreationDate="2010-11-09T02:09:54.727" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buckets are cheaper, lighter, and easier to deal with in general.  They're not advisable for long term storage though, as they allow some light and oxidation to occur.  Carboy's allow no oxidation, but they're more difficult to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a carboy cleaner wand, this is an attachment to a garden hose or water tap that creates a powerful stream of water, cleaning a carboy should be pretty easy.  Personally I use a product caller PBR (Professional Brewery Cleaner) - soak the carboy with 2 tablespoons and some hot water, and everything comes off pretty easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a plastic bucket for the primary fermentation (about 10 days), then a carboy for the secondary, which can last anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 months or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T02:09:54.727" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="99" CreationDate="2010-11-09T02:13:57.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a form in Microsoft Word - It has a space for all of the important measures.  Make sure you record your ingredients, the time you do anything (mash, sparge, etc.) - also any temperatures, the specific gravity and volume before and after the wort boil, type of yeast etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these might seem like overkill now, as a novice, but as you learn the subtle differences from changing each, you'll be able to go back and figure out why one batch tasted better or worse than another.  Remember, if you don't write down the information at the time, you'll never have it later.  I find a standard form helpful, as it reminds me of all of the things I need to be writing down, and there's a lot of info to record.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T02:13:57.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="78" CreationDate="2010-11-09T02:25:16.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wort should be flowing through the copper tubing in this case, so heat shouldn't be an issue.  Copper is also great because it transfers heat well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a control over the flow rate of the wort, then the length isn't really that important.  Realize that the longer the length of copper, the faster you'll be able to run the wort through and cool it properly.  My counterflow chiller is probably about 10' of tubing, though I'm not sure of the exact length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of tubing to run the water through, most people just use ordinary garden hose - I don't know that it's rated at 212, but with water flowing, it'll never reach anything like 212.  Copper has a melting point well into the thousands, so no worries about cooper and heat.  Just make sure that if you solder any connections, you use a lead free solder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T02:25:16.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-09T02:42:28.947" Score="8" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to home brewing and want to make sure I'm using quality ingredients. I've been to a few stores, but have trouble knowing if what they offer is good quality or not. What tips / techniques can i use to be sure I'm getting the good stuff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:50:39.480" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T00:15:54.817" Title="How do i determine the quality of ingredients?" Tags="|ingredients|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="131" CreationDate="2010-11-09T02:43:31.777" Score="4" ViewCount="3376" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a hose that fits some of our equipment (bottle filler wand) but it is loose on both the racking cane and auto siphon. Is there a standardized size for this equipment or does it vary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T20:11:55.823" Title="Is there a standard siphoning hose size?" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2010-11-09T03:14:15.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Move to Minnesota, nature's refrigerator/freezer, where I live? Controlling added heat is much easier when your entire garage is 36-38F for 4 months of the year and you don't have to do much to get the cooling side of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T03:14:15.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2010-11-09T03:23:59.467" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read the following on the label of a bottle of Pliny the Elder (a double IPA from Russian River in California):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Respect your elder. Keep Cold. Drink Fresh. Pliny the Elder is a historical figure, don’t make the beer inside this bottle one! Not a barley wine, do not age! Age your cheese, not your Pliny! Respect hops, consume fresh. If you must, sit on eggs, not on Pliny! Do not save for a rainy day! Pliny is for savoring, not for saving! Consume Pliny fresh or not at all! Does not improve with age! Hoppy beers are not meant to be aged! Keep away from heat!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That bottle was opened a year after it was purchased and it was still a good beer, but it did not have the hoppy zing of fresh Pliny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aromatic hop oils are the first to go when you age a hoppy beer: that wonderful aroma of hops will begin to fade after minimal aging. Hop flavor will fade a little slower, but it will fade for sure. The isomerized alpha acids that produce bitterness are not as delicate as the aroma and flavor compounds, but they will also fade with time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your beer is all about hop aroma and flavor, then it will hit its peak as soon as it's ready to drink or soon after. Any other beer will benefit from some aging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T03:23:59.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2010-11-09T03:29:29.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a &lt;strong&gt;Victoria Grain Mill&lt;/strong&gt;.  It was about $50.  It looks like a Corona mill, but I've read that they are better suited to grinding malt than Corona mills.  I don't know if that's true or not, but this Victoria mill works great.  The closest store to me is a couple of hours away, including a ferry ride, so I'd much rather be able to grind my own grain.  I was a little worried just after I bought it, but it has been great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest grinding your grain a day or a few days before brew day.  An all-grain batch is a big process, and removing this one self-contained part of it makes brew day easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suggest grinding out-of-doors if possible.  Just the dust produced by dumping your grain out of the sacks justifies this, but the grinding will make more mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A grinding session, including getting everything out, weighing, grinding, and putting it all away takes me less than an hour.  The grinding itself is maybe 20 minutes.  My kids love helping with the grinding -- I have to give them a time limit of a minute each at a time.  Outside, on the deck, in the sun, handling and smelling the wonderful grains -- it's a great time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T04:27:14.747" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T04:27:14.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="108" CreationDate="2010-11-09T03:43:42.070" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, for hops at least:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want non-permeable gas-barrier packages&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum sealed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opaque (to prevent light exposure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refrigerated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note is that for 'bittering hops' - that is, hops added early in the boil such that their bitterness is imparted, but the flavor and aroma are largely boiled off by the end, the quality doesn't matter as much as for the aroma hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T03:43:42.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="108" CreationDate="2010-11-09T03:44:28.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy them from the store.  Try making beer with them.  See if the beer tastes OK.  If yes, keep buying from that store.  If no, find a new store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the date on malt extracts.  Are the cans at your store all within date or are there cans that have a decade of dust on them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, I always taste and smell each individual ingredient while adding it to the brew.  Knowing what the ingredients taste like on their own will help in identifying problems, crafting recipes, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taste some of the ingredients after brewing.  Spent grain?  Yum!  Spent hops?  Maybe.  Spent hot break?  Ew!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the long run a well trained set of senses will be your best weapons for making great beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T03:44:28.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="109" CreationDate="2010-11-09T03:48:11.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I expect someone with more experience will answer your question outright, but in the mean-time, you might want to consider a hose clamp:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Et4Iq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Available (via google) from some homebrew stores, or any hardware store.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bittercreekhomebrew.com/Small-Hose-Clamp-pr-289.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bittercreekhomebrew.com/Small-Hose-Clamp-pr-289.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T03:48:11.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="99" CreationDate="2010-11-09T03:50:10.643" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/&quot;&gt;BeerSmith&lt;/a&gt; to craft my recipes.  On brew day, I print a copy of the brewing instructions.  As the day progresses, I record the temperatures, volumes, weights, etc.  As the beer ferments and I process it, I also take notes.  All on the original brew sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I am not writing on the sheet, I keep it in a D-ring binder in clear page protectors.  I keep them all in order of when I brewed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come in handy, especially when brewing the same recipe multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could in theory keep all this information back in BeerSmith, but I find paper and pen less restrictive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T03:50:10.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="100" CreationDate="2010-11-09T03:53:12.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The down side to glass carboys is that they break and cut you.  I've heard of some pretty heinous injuries caused by dropped carboys.  Plastic buckets have never hurt anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK.  Maybe I am a bit paranoid about it.  But I'm always drinking beer while making beer.  I suspect I'm not the only one.  The idea of drunks carrying around large, heavy, glass bottles worries me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T03:53:12.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-09T03:55:43.180" Score="7" ViewCount="8441" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long do you wait before taking corrective action if your fermentation doesn't start?  Are there any other good ways to tell if it's just taking a while to get going?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T02:44:23.357" Title="How do you tell if your fermentation is stuck?" Tags="|fermentation|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2010-11-09T03:59:27.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've also been told by the LHBS that standard plastic buckets (Home Depot style, not food grade) is fine for grain storage.  Though you will need more than one to store a 40 lbs. bag.  The type of plastic is unimportant.  Just make sure the bucket has a tight fitting lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T03:59:27.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2010-11-09T04:05:35.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Charlie Papazian also wrote &quot;The Homebrewers' Companion&quot;, which fills in the gaps of &quot;The Complete Joy of Homebrewing&quot;. Awesome author.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T04:05:35.430" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-09T04:05:35.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23" CreationDate="2010-11-09T04:08:17.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My the owner of my LHBS told me to sprinkle the dried yeast on top of the chilled wort, and destroy the instructions that came with the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T04:08:17.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="172" CreationDate="2010-11-09T04:14:13.947" Score="16" ViewCount="1732" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why should you aerate the wort before pitching yeast but then try to avoid allowing oxygen into it later in the process? What is going on with the yeast that makes oxygen good at first but bad later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T03:46:37.577" Title="Why do you aerate wort at first and try to keep oxygen out later?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2010-11-09T04:19:13.703" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has to do with the yeast lifecycle.  Early on, you want yeast to reproduce very fast.  This requires oxygen.  Later on, you want yeast to more or less maintain itself, and specifically start living in oxygen-free mode, such that it stops giving off early-fermentation byproducts..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Yeast is somewhat special in that it can operate in both an oxygenated environment and a non-oxygen environment- it just acts a bit different, depending on the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T04:19:13.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="118" CreationDate="2010-11-09T04:29:12.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally wait a few days before worrying at all.  I have had slow fermentations, where I didn't see any activity in the airlock, but when I took a hydrometer reading after about 10 days, fermentation was complete, so definitely don't assume you have problems simply because you don't see any airlock activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, make sure your wort is in the appropriate temperature range for your yeast.  If you don't have a stick-on thermometer on your fermenter, you should probably get one, they are very inexpensive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with all things in this hobby, relax, don't worry, have a homebrew!  Remember that people have been brewing beer for centuries without worrying about all of the technical details we get to fiddle with today!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T04:29:12.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="108" CreationDate="2010-11-09T04:32:23.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest piece of advice I can offer is to be sure the hops are green.  This is a very easy test, even for a novice brewer, and brown hops are no good.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about hops used for aroma/flavor (these are the hops you add toward the end of the boil), they should have a pungent aroma, like the one you want your beer to have when it is done.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T04:32:23.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-09T04:37:15.643" Score="4" ViewCount="685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read about gruits (beers made with no hops, using other herbs in their stead).  Apparently, this was a commonly used technique before hops became so prevalent.  Mugwort seems to be one of the most common herbs used in gruits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does mugwort differ from hops, in terms of usage (how much to add, and when) and in the final product (taste, head retention, shelf life, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you used any other herbs?  How do they compare to hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T00:36:20.457" Title="When brewing a gruit, how do alternatives to hops, such as mugwort, affect the bitterness and flavor?" Tags="|hops|bittering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2010-11-09T04:38:21.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to consider is that you generally want to aerate the wort before pitching the yeast, and you don't want to aerate wort above 80 degrees, according to Palmer.  The reasoning is that the oxygen will bind to various wort compounds, which later break down, freeing the oxygen, which then oxidizes fatty acids + alcohols, causing off-flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T04:38:21.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2010-11-09T04:41:51.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be sure that however you store it, it is in a rodent-proof container.  Mice will have a feast if they come across your stored grain, and they will set up shop nearby (or possibly inside your container).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T04:41:51.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="159" CreationDate="2010-11-09T04:57:35.127" Score="6" ViewCount="8414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally rack my beers to secondary for about a week before bottling just to clarify them a bit, but as I understand it, barleywines should be aged much longer to allow some flavors to develop and for others to mellow out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long should a barleywine-style ale be aged in secondary before bottling? How long should it be bottle conditioned? I know this will vary based on recipe, but are there some generally accepted guidelines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2010-11-14T01:19:56.330" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T16:56:36.613" Title="How long should a barleywine be aged before bottling?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|bottle-conditioning|barleywine|aging|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="133" CreationDate="2010-11-09T04:58:37.637" Score="42" ViewCount="30457" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some labels can be a pain to remove. I've tried soaking bottles in water with a little bit of dish soap but it doesn't really do much to break down the adhesive. What methods do you have for easily removing labels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:49:08.157" LastActivityDate="2023-12-16T00:21:33.380" Title="Are there any tricks for removing labels from bottles?" Tags="|techniques|bottling|bottles|labels|oxiclean|" AnswerCount="22" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="109" CreationDate="2010-11-09T05:03:41.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, there are three common sizes: &lt;strong&gt;3/8&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;1/2&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;1&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking equipment commonly uses 3/8&quot; tubing. This will, of course, vary by brand, but I've found that most of the equipment I've ever used requires 3/8&quot; tubing. 1/2&quot; is less common but still easy to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1&quot; tubing is often used for blow-off tubes since it fits easily into most glass carboys and provides enough space for blow-off gunk so that it doesn't clog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T05:03:41.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2010-11-09T05:05:43.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soak with bleach for 1+ hours in initially hot water.  Then scrap them off with a butter-knife like whittling a log- works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T05:05:43.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2010-11-09T05:06:54.667" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OxiClean&lt;/strong&gt;. The stuff works wonders. Fill a bucket with a scoop of OxiClean and hot water and let the bottles soak for about an hour. Most labels will simply slide right off; some will even float right off the bottles to the surface. The ones that don't will be easy to remove with a rag or sponge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also generally never want to use dish soap or detergent on anything that will come in contact with your beer. Detergents often leave behind a residue or coating that can kill head retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T23:19:50.630" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T23:19:50.630" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-09T05:43:05.787" Score="9" ViewCount="1516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished a kegerator build, complete with a custom thermostat so I can set the temperature to the degree.  Now the question is: What temperature range is best for each beer style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T06:00:00.253" LastActivityDate="2017-07-31T11:52:05.640" Title="What is the recommended serving temperature for each beer style?" Tags="|temperature|serving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-09T05:59:38.943" Score="46" ViewCount="57755" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you mark, label, or otherwise identify the contents of your bottles?  I'm currently using masking tape and a marker, but I'm curious what most other people use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T20:28:51.920" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T17:42:40.603" Title="How do you label your bottles?" Tags="|bottles|labels|" AnswerCount="30" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2010-11-09T08:02:35.180" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;For removing your own labels that you apply to your bottles, use a label with a hot-soak water soluable adhesive. When you're ready to reuse your bottles, a soak in hot soapy water is all that's needed to slide the labels off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing labels from store-bought beverage bottles can be hit or miss because each bottler can use different label materials and different adhesives.  By random sampling I've found some labels slide off in hot water, some will peel off after applying solvent, and others just never let go of the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a cure-all that removes every label from every bottle:  500 degrees F in a ceramic kiln for about a hour will incinerate every organic compound in the label and adhesive. Some adhesives will etch the surface of the glass so a shadow may remain, but there's no label!  Don't go much higher than 500F though or the bottle may start to soften and deform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastEditorUserId="101" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T06:20:46.943" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T06:20:46.943" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="100" CreationDate="2010-11-09T08:09:21.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buckets are much easier to deal with: they're lighter, easier to get material in and out of, easier to clean, and generally unbreakable.  I have a couple of carboys and a bunch of buckets.  I almost never use the carboys because they're just so much more work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful when cleaning a glass carboy with a hose pushed into the neck of the bottle.  If there is dirt or sediment in the bottle, it can get caught between the hose and the neck of the carboy and allow pressure to build up to dangerous levels.  True story: I was washing out a glass carboy that had dirt in it (had been a terrarium) in the back yard with a garden hose. Left it on its side with the hose running to flush out the dirt for a few minutes.  Stepped inside the garden shed for a few seconds and pow! The carboy exploded and embedded glass shrapnel in the shed door.  Glad I was inside!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T08:09:21.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2010-11-09T10:59:12.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I design my labels in &lt;a href=&quot;http://inkscape.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Inkscape&lt;/a&gt; and print them with a laser printer onto labels from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.minilabels.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Minilabels&lt;/a&gt; which have an enormous number of labels available in different materials/adhesive and printing methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T10:59:12.567" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2010-11-09T11:00:24.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually find soaking them in my sterilising solution does an excellent job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T11:00:24.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="118" CreationDate="2010-11-09T11:02:48.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing I always do is stick it somewhere warm or wrap my fermenting vessel in a blanket for a day. The two times I've had a stuck ferment, that's restarted it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also be taking hydrometer readings carefully at this point, to see if it really is stuck, or just slow!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T11:02:48.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="88" CreationDate="2010-11-09T11:05:22.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In contrast to @Jeff L, I'd read in CJJ Berry that when brewing wine, it's advisable to rack off fairly early to prevent wine sitting on dead yeast and being contaminated by undesirable flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T11:05:22.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="80" CreationDate="2010-11-09T11:07:27.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slow is good (no pun intended), and anecdotally at any rate, I believe it leads to a more thorough fermentation and usually a dryer wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as it's fermenting, no matter how slowly, it's doing the right thing. Some fermentations are over in days, others take weeks, and some months! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be patient!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T11:07:27.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="204" CreationDate="2010-11-09T11:17:39.423" Score="1" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I'm brewing some apple wine at the moment, following a recipe for a dry apple wine from CJJ Berry's &quot;First Steps in Winemaking&quot; (2006 reprint p185).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe lists ONLY the following ingredients:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.75k apples (I used golden delicious)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 kilo sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;150ml white grape concentrate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 teaspoon citric acid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4.5L water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast &amp;amp; nutrient&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At no point in the recipe does it mention adding the citric acid, but it does mention within the method that you should &quot;strain the stewed apple liquid onto the sugar and the &lt;em&gt;thinly peeled rind of the lemon&lt;/em&gt; &quot; (my emphasis). The lemon juice is added with the yeast. The lemon is never mentioned in the ingredients. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there's a printing error/typo that never got picked up in proofing, but should I be using both lemon and citric acid, or only one? The wine has just about stopped fermenting, and I'm about to rack it off for bulk aging. If I needed to add the citric acid now (I used only the lemon) is it too late?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T12:23:52.387" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T12:23:52.387" Title="Is this recipe correct" Tags="|wine|acidity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="150" CreationDate="2010-11-09T11:20:47.473" Score="10" ViewCount="537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have inherited a garage after a recent move, and as I also have off street parking, it seems only right and natural that I start to indulge my desire to start homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intention is to be good enough to brew all the ale for my wedding within 2 years, but having never done it before, I just want to wet my beak in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people have advised me to start with a kit, and I wonder firstly is this good advice, and secondly if anyone has one they would recommend? I am without anything more than space, with regards to equipment, so is it a good idea to opt for one that comes with bit of kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any help would be warmly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T09:56:28.873" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T15:43:06.460" Title="Can anyone recommend a starters kit, available in the UK?" Tags="|kits|coopers|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="146" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-09T12:00:13.677" Score="15" ViewCount="5798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in learning about brewing using wild yeast, but I wonder what is the best method to catch a strain that would produce good results in homebrewing. And of course how to ensure that it wins over all the other wild microorganisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need to explain how to keep it going, as that shouldn't be different from store bought yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I 've baked bread with wild yeast before, but one thing I learned is that it turns sour very soon, which is not something you want in drinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is not a subjective question, the best method is one that scores the lowest in the following benchmarks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Availability of ingredients (0 Air - Belgian Cave 10) * Wherever the cave is, we assume the judge lives in the other side of the planet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of culture (0 Pot - Laboratory equipment 10)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dedication (0 Leave it alone - Stir it each minute for two weeks 10)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user61" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:11:08.487" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T16:32:22.213" Title="What's the best method to catch a strain of wild yeast for homebrewing?" Tags="|yeast|techniques|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2010-11-09T12:50:51.007" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't label the bottle itself, because I hate removing the labels later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I mark the cap with a sharpie. I have a number/naming convention I use, typically something like &lt;code&gt;Year-Batch Abbreviation&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;code&gt;10-04 HB&lt;/code&gt; is the fourth beer of 2010, and is my Hellcat Bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T12:50:51.007" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="232" CreationDate="2010-11-09T12:55:58.770" Score="9" ViewCount="3646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Chocolate Cherry Stout that is currently in secondary on fresh Cherries. It has been sitting on the cherries for 2 months now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I prepare to bottle I want to be sure I have enough, healthy yeast for bottle conditioning. I've had trouble in the past with 'bigger' beers (this one is ~7, ish) that have conditioned a long period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When do I know I should reintroduce yeast at bottling time? Is it a function of time and ABV?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I go about re-yeasting? I'm assuming I should use a neutral strain of yeast, but how much should I use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T18:09:35.407" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T18:47:01.560" Title="When bottle conditioning, when should I re-yeast, and how much yeast should I add" Tags="|yeast|beer|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23" CreationDate="2010-11-09T12:59:38.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would always recommend re hydrating the yeast. For some beers, especially in the 1040-1060 range you probably don't need to make a starter, as the yeast packet actually contains enough yeast for a beer that size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of guessing, use a Yeast Pitching Calculator, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jamil Zainasheff's here&lt;/a&gt;. Too much yeast can be a problem, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T12:59:38.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="145" CreationDate="2010-11-09T13:23:44.727" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, welcome to brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would first urge to look around in your neighborhood to see if there's a local homebrew shop. They can help you with the equipment and knowledge to get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if there isn't one around you, there are a couple of online homebrew shops that sell the equipment needed to get started. The three I've used in the past and recommend are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing&quot;&gt;Northern Brewer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/&quot;&gt;More Beer&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.austinhomebrew.com/index.php?cPath=178&quot;&gt;Austin Homebrew Supply&lt;/a&gt;. Each site has beginner equipment and ingredient kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would trust the equipment from any of these sites but I've only tested the ingredient kits from Northern Brewer. I'd recommend Extract Kits to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Northern Brewer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/starter-kits&quot;&gt;Beginner Equipment Kits&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/recipe-kits/extract-kits&quot;&gt;Ingredient Kits&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More Beer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/search/102141/beerwinecoffee/coffeewinebeer/Home_Brewing_Kits&quot;&gt;Beginner Equipment&#xA;Kits&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/search/103501/beerwinecoffee/coffeewinebeer/Beer_Ingredient_Kits&quot;&gt;Ingredient Kits&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Austin Homebrew Supply: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.austinhomebrew.com/index.php?cPath=178_33_52&quot;&gt;Beginner&#xA;Equipment Kits&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.austinhomebrew.com/index.php?cPath=178_452&quot;&gt;Ingredient&#xA;Kits&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T13:23:44.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21" CreationDate="2010-11-09T13:26:14.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;16-21 C is 60-68F.  That's prime ale brewing temps.  As for the temp swings, remember Charlie Papazian's advice, &quot;Relax!  Don't worry!  Have a homebrew!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T13:26:14.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="134" CreationDate="2010-11-09T13:26:16.487" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Play around with the temperature until you find what you like. I tend to leave my fridge around +45°F (or +7°C). I've found that gives me temperature I like best across styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a general &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ratebeer.com/Story.asp?StoryID=479&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;temperature guide&lt;/a&gt; for styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Very cold (0-4°C/32-39°F)&lt;/strong&gt;: Any beer you don’t actually want to taste. Pale Lager, Malt Liquor, Canadian-style Golden Ale and Cream Ale, Low Alcohol, Canadian, American or Scandinavian-style Cider.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cold (4-7°C/39-45°F)&lt;/strong&gt;: Hefeweizen, Kristalweizen, Kölsch, Premium Lager, Pilsner, Classic German Pilsner, Fruit Beer, brewpub-style Golden Ale, European Strong Lager, Berliner Weisse, Belgian White, American Dark Lager, sweetened Fruit Lambics and Gueuzes, Duvel-types&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cool (8-12°C/45-54°F)&lt;/strong&gt;: American Pale Ale, Amber Ale, California Common, Dunkelweizen, Sweet Stout, Stout, Dry Stout, Porter, English-style Golden Ale, unsweetened Fruit Lambics and Gueuzes, Faro, Belgian Ale, Bohemian Pilsner, Dunkel, Dortmunder/Helles, Vienna, Schwarzbier, Smoked, Altbier, Tripel, Irish Ale, French or Spanish-style Cider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cellar (12-14°C/54-57°F)&lt;/strong&gt;: Bitter, Premium Bitter, Brown Ale, India Pale Ale, English Pale Ale, English Strong Ale, Old Ale, Saison, Unblended Lambic, Flemish Sour Ale, Bière de Garde, Baltic Porter, Abbey Dubbel, Belgian Strong Ale, Weizen Bock, Bock, Foreign Stout, Zwickel/Keller/Landbier, Scottish Ale, Scotch Ale, American Strong Ale, Mild, English-style Cider &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warm (14-16°C/57-61°F)&lt;/strong&gt;: Barley Wine, Abt/Quadrupel, Imperial Stout, Imperial/Double IPA, Doppelbock, Eisbock, Mead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hot (70°C/158°F)&lt;/strong&gt;: Quelque Chose, Liefmans Glühkriek, dark, spiced winter ales like Daleside Morocco Ale.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-31T11:52:05.640" LastActivityDate="2017-07-31T11:52:05.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="68" CreationDate="2010-11-09T13:35:42.760" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Jeff L, that secondary is useful for particular things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your question, I only ever do a 'secondary' when adding fruit or extended aging. My beers clear just fine after two weeks in the fermenting vessel. I've never experienced off flavors from that two weeks on the yeast, and I always dry hop in the primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me I can't find any reason to use a second vessel (except for fruit or extended aging, meaning more than a month) so it isn't worth the hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T13:35:42.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2010-11-09T13:40:34.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This one is still kinda new, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingtv.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewing TV&lt;/a&gt; is a fave of mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T13:40:34.877" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-09T13:40:34.877" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="244" CreationDate="2010-11-09T13:43:33.593" Score="7" ViewCount="1879" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/74/should-i-test-my-water&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. How do I test my water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2017-02-18T16:29:19.337" Title="How do I test my water?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="156" CreationDate="2010-11-09T13:50:21.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have city water, they usually sent out a water profile a couple of times a year. It will be an average of the whole city, but it'll give you a general idea of what you're dealing with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also send your water away to a lab to get tested. I've never bothered, so you'll need to find a reputable lab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T13:50:21.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="88" CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:15:51.957" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that beer can stay in the primary for several weeks, but I continue to rack to a secondary.  I usually do it as soon as the head has died down and I'm pretty sure it's not going to flare up again in the carboy.  I like to get the beer away from the grungy primary and get the primary cleaned.  (I use a plastic pail for primary, and glass carboy for secondary.)  And I like to do it quite early so that there will be plenty of CO2 still coming out of the beer to force the 02 out of the carboy.  I usually let it sit a days or two, and then top it up with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there is still plenty enough yeast in suspension to do the clean-up mentioned by Jeff L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often bottle 2 or 3 weeks later.  And though I know I probably don't need to use a secondary at all in those cases, I like to do it anyway.  It's party aesthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T14:15:51.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="129" CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:22:40.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically speaking it's best to age &lt;em&gt;in&lt;/em&gt; the bottle, not out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottle once fermentation is complete and the beer has cleared out, same as always. However you want to let it stay in the bottle much longer than your standard brew before consumption; around 6 months is standard. Reason for that is because there are hot alcohols and (if you're brewing american style barleywine) big hop flavors that will take longer to blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T14:22:40.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:28:06.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start with a canned kit or a wort-in-a-bag kit.  Go to your local homebrewing supply store and pick whichever style they have that interests you the most.  If it's a canned kit and tells you to add sugar, use light dry malt extract instead.  (But go ahead and use sugar for priming at bottling time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how available they are in the US, but &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewhouse.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew House&lt;/a&gt;&quot; wort-in-a-bag kits are very good, and very easy for getting started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T14:28:06.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="145" CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:30:28.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a starter kit is great advice.  You will get going quick and easy, and learn a lot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got started with this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brewing-starter-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Midwest Brew Supply starter kit&lt;/a&gt;.  Have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="109" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T14:30:28.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="169" CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:31:16.403" Score="11" ViewCount="5724" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best type of beer to brew for a beginner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:51:05.983" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T13:02:27.753" Title="What is the best type of beer to brew for a beginner?" Tags="|beer|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="170" CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:37:40.797" Score="9" ViewCount="10303" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens when you use different types of yeast?  Does it change the flavor?  I'm not talking about mixing different types of yeast in the same recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:32:50.563" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:32:50.563" Title="What effect do different types of yeast have when creating a recipe?" Tags="|beer|yeast|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="145" CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:41:23.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewmart.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Home Brew Mart&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewery.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Home Brewery&lt;/a&gt; both have beginner equipment and accessories, along with instructions and recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T14:41:23.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:54:12.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have your own well as I do, then you ought to know what's coming from your tap regardless. There are a couple of different tests that you run - the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cdc.gov/healthywater/drinking/private/wells/testing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CDC&lt;/a&gt; has a lot of good information on how often to test, and what you should be checking for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That aside, there are some micro-nutrient requirements for good beer, and different levels of water hardness will definitely affect the final flavorings of your brew. I have a few books (currently inaccessible) that have guidelines for water quality, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/08/24/brewing-water-hard-or-soft/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; are a very good set and correspond to what I recall semi-offhand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that @Matt means spring water, not distilled water - it's too pure to make truly good beer, oddly enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T14:54:12.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="156" CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:58:03.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mentioned this over at the other question, but it bears repeating. If you have a private well, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cdc.gov/healthywater/drinking/private/wells/testing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;read this.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. There are links to the bottom for state certified testing agencies. If you've never had your water tested, I highly recommend doing so immediately, beer brewing notwithstanding - it's potentially a serious safety issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are on city water, then it's &lt;strong&gt;probably&lt;/strong&gt; safe, but I'd be tempted to test what's coming out of your individual tap just to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T14:58:03.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="162" CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:59:00.597" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always recommend an Ale of some kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a beginner beer I always want to advise something that is a little simpler so that the beginner will have a better chance of success. I want them to keep brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would stay away from lagers, as they often require more equipment to keep cool. I also would stay away from sour beers as they can be more finicky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll often recommend something with some character to it: either a little hoppy, like a pale ale, ipa, or american amber, or something roasty like a stout, etc. That way there's some grain/hop flavor to mask potential beginning mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the best advice, I think, is to pick a beer the beginner likes to drink. There's no point making a beer you don't want to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T14:59:00.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="164" CreationDate="2010-11-09T15:03:08.317" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different yeast does do different things when fermented in the same beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flocculation -&lt;/strong&gt; Some yeast has high flocculation, which means that it collects or gathers together (I think of a flock of birds gathering). High flocculation is often desired because it leaves a clearer beer. However some beer styles want a low flocculation yeast (IE Hefeweizen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attenuation -&lt;/strong&gt; is the amount of available sugars that the yeast will consume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature Range -&lt;/strong&gt; can play a part in which yeast you use. General rule of thumb is that lager yeasts ferment at lower temperatures and ale yeasts at higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alcohol Tolerance -&lt;/strong&gt; some yeasts don't stand up to the higher gravity beers such as Belgium tripples or Barleywines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flavour&lt;/strong&gt; -&#xA;The type of yeast does play a part in the flavour of the beer. When the yeast doesn't flocculate well and is suspended in the beer you will notice a yeasty/bready flavour. But even when it does get removed you will still notice different flavours from different yeasts. Certain yeasts will ferment cleaner with no fruity esters, while others will ferment leaving a lot of esters. Some yeasts will not be prone to diacetyl whilst &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=22&quot;&gt;others&lt;/a&gt; are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain.cfm&quot;&gt;WYeast's Yeast Strain Guide&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew_strains.html&quot;&gt;WhiteLabs Yeast Strain Guide&lt;/a&gt; for information on different strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For more information:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/Flocculation_help.pdf&quot;&gt;Flocculation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew_terms.html&quot;&gt;Attenuation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note the Flavour differences &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=127&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=150&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T15:03:08.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="164" CreationDate="2010-11-09T15:10:34.217" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast is one of the most important components of a beer recipe. If you think about it, you do not make beer, you simply provide a friendly environment for yeast to make the beer for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different strains of yeast have evolved over the history of brewing, adapting to their breweries and being selected for different characteristics by brewers. The strain of yeast you choose can profoundly affect the balance of the beer just by virtue of the mix of alcohols and esters that they produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every strain is different, but speaking in broad generalizations and bearing in mind that the flavors described may be subtle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belgian yeasts emphasize &quot;spicy&quot; esters. (E.g. White Labs 550 Belgian Ale)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;English yeasts emphasize &quot;fruity&quot; esters. (E.g. Wyeast 1275 Thames Valley)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;German yeasts tend to emphasize the malt. (E.g. White Labs 830 German Lager)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;American yeasts tend to have a &quot;clean&quot; character that emphasizes hop flavor. (E.g Wyeast 1056 American Ale)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T15:10:34.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2010-11-09T15:23:41.367" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is because of the Pasteur Effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast are facultative anaerobes, which means they will produce energy aerobically (respiration) when oxygen is present, and anaerobically, by fermentation, in the absence of oxygen.  Aerobic metabolism produces about 20 times as much energy as anaerobic, but ethanol (alcohol) is not a by-product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the yeast metabolizing aerobically at first is helpful for two key reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast will grow in size and mass by storing fatty acids.  These fatty acids store oxygen within the cell that may be used later.  These make the yeast better at fermenting and increase alcohol tolerance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast will reproduce faster to create a higher density population.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all the oxygen has been consumed from the wort, you will have a lot of hearty yeast, but little alcohol.  However, with the oxygen gone, the yeast will begin using anaerobic metabolism, which produces alcohol (hooray)!  Once this happens, you don't want the yeast getting access to any more oxygen from the environment, because they will switch back to aerobic metabolism and quit creating alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, presence of oxygen later can cause oxidation to create off-flavoring compounds (e.g., trans-2-nonenal that causes a paper/cardboard flavor.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="981" LastEditDate="2011-08-25T03:46:37.577" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T03:46:37.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2010-11-09T15:43:22.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Brewmaster's Bible by Stephen Snyder&lt;br&gt;&#xA;ISBN: 0-06-095216-4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yk3xJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brewmaster&amp;#39;s Bible&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T15:43:22.667" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-09T15:43:22.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="197" CreationDate="2010-11-09T15:44:20.920" Score="4" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a peach hefeweizen and I added 7lb of fresh peaches to the secondary.  I just chunked the peaches and popped them into the carboy.  I have siphoned the beer out for bottling and now I am left with a carboy full of peach chunks!  What's the best way for getting these out?  I was thinking about just soaking them with some PBW and then maybe mashing them up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2010-11-14T01:20:07.577" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T01:20:07.577" Title="Removing Fruit From Secondary" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|sanitation|fruit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2010-11-09T15:45:56.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dave Millers Homebrewing Guide - Dave Miller&lt;br&gt;&#xA;ISBN: 0882669052&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JciK3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dave Millers Homebrewing Guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T15:45:56.880" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-09T15:45:56.880" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="174" CreationDate="2010-11-09T15:48:58.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the fruit to be fairly soft already. I used a short, hard plastic stick to help me get them out. Mashing them up a little first might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T15:48:58.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2010-11-09T15:52:34.510" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started off just marking bottle caps with a sharpie.  This worked well for my own purposes, but whenever I give it to someone they had no idea what it was.  Last Christmas I gave beer as gifts, so I made a special label.  I bought beer bottle label paper and was able to design any shape and print it out.  Cutting out the labels was a pain, applying the labels was a pain, and after wards half of them came off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately I have been using those mailing label sheets that are meant for your printer.  They are adhesive so it is really easy to put them on.  They are also really cheap.  I usually just write the label by hand but you could print it.  I think they give the bottles a &quot;bootleg&quot; feel, which I like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T17:21:02.663" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T17:21:02.663" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="174" CreationDate="2010-11-09T16:05:49.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a bottle/carboy washer (little attachment you can put on your faucet) and a carboy brush to be invaluable in cleanup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T16:05:49.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="181" CreationDate="2010-11-09T16:07:33.297" Score="28" ViewCount="57729" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitized and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sterilized?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T02:36:02.453" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T22:33:37.193" Title="What is the difference between Clean, Sanitized and Sterilized?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|sterilization|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="180" CreationDate="2010-11-09T16:16:29.330" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleaning&lt;/strong&gt; is the process of removing material from the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanitizing&lt;/strong&gt; is the process of reducing the number of organisms (in brewing, we're worried about bad bacteria, mainly - but others also like fungi and unwanted yeast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sterilizing&lt;/strong&gt; is like sanitizing, but removing ALL microorganisms (any living being - microscopic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I remember right, sanitizing is a technical term that means a certain allowable amount of microorganisms remain, and sterilization is removing ALL of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part, brewers don't need to &lt;strong&gt;sterilize&lt;/strong&gt;, only &lt;strong&gt;sanitize&lt;/strong&gt;. The chemicals made for brewing are made to &lt;strong&gt;sanitize&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to both clean AND sanitize. The analogy I like is this: if my Dog pees on my floor, I first wipe up the liquid (&lt;strong&gt;clean&lt;/strong&gt;), then use bleach (&lt;strong&gt;sanitize&lt;/strong&gt;). If I merely use the bleach I've still got pee on my floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-08-01T22:05:50.990" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T22:05:50.990" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2010-11-09T16:20:05.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be cheap and easy solution.  If you have a cooler, you can probably pull the whole thing off for $20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bayareamashers.org/gadgets/Jim%27s%20minimalist%20fermentation%20chiller.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bay Area Mashers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-09T15:00:27.413" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T15:00:27.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="187" CreationDate="2010-11-09T16:28:12.717" Score="7" ViewCount="1889" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I was brewing a nice IPA the other day.  I walked in to check on the carboy and the stopper had popped out and there were hops everywhere!  I stopped it back up and bottled it a few days later without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I would like to know how this happened?  I waited a little over a week to transfer to the secondary.  The fermentation lock was bubbling once every couple minutes.  So, I'm thinking primary fermentation was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned the secondary carboy really good (so I thought) and added the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas here?  Is this just a contamination issue?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T14:59:23.033" Title="Help! My secondary fermenter exploded!" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|contamination|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2010-11-09T16:29:49.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started writing on the bottle caps with a marker, but it could be hard to write on the cap.  Lately I've been using circle shaped garage sale stickers on the caps.  It's easy to use and I don't have to remove anything from the bottle itself.  If you can find the multi-colored labels, it makes it much easier to identify the beer at a glance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T23:00:04.243" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T23:00:04.243" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="194" CreationDate="2010-11-09T16:31:54.133" Score="10" ViewCount="782" Body="&lt;p&gt;When dry hopping, should you try to submerge the hops after you add them to the secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Half the hops in my last IPA weren't wet after a week, so I'm thinking they couldn't contribute much flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2011-10-28T13:33:20.750" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T17:15:05.320" Title="Should I dunk my dry hops?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|dry-hopping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="191" CreationDate="2010-11-09T16:36:41.460" Score="1" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious to hear stories about using a hopback.  There are a few incarnations out there and a few reasonable DIY hopbacks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if it's worth the trouble.  And, if so, does anyone have tips on using one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T17:34:26.097" Title="Ever used a hopback?" Tags="|hopback|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="183" CreationDate="2010-11-09T16:42:14.023" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that explosions are usually caused by the airlock getting clogged, usually by krausen.  The pressure builds up and you get an explosion.  The solution is to use a blow-off hose instead of an airlock, since it's wider and allows for krausen or whatever to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one hand, I haven't heard of this happening in secondary, but on the other hand, it's supposed to be more likely when you're using a fermenter with less head room (eg, a 5-gallon secondary vs a 6.5 gallon primary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T16:42:14.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="192" CreationDate="2010-11-09T17:04:11.970" Score="8" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty straight-forward- what're the benefits and drawbacks of dry or liquid yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T17:44:36.803" Title="What are the advantages of Dry vs Liquid yeast?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="195" CreationDate="2010-11-09T17:19:11.157" Score="18" ViewCount="33200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of cola, lemonade, etc bottles, usually 2 litres, commonly available in the UK. Are these going to be an acceptable substitute for glass bottles?  Would save a few pennies on the cost of beer bottles, caps and capper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:51:17.073" LastActivityDate="2023-03-29T23:51:21.823" Title="Are plastic fizzy-drink bottles an acceptable substitute for glass bottles?" Tags="|bottles|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="188" CreationDate="2010-11-09T17:19:40.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the main thing is variety.  There are so many liquid yeasts to choose from, and they'll let you produce a much larger variety of beers compared to what you could produce if you just stayed with dry yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of dry is they're easier to store and they'll keep longer.  Having a few packets on hand is probably a good thing, even if you regularly use liquid.  If you make a batch of beer and realize you forgot to get yeast, or if something goes wrong with your yeast, a dry yeast stored in the freezer could save the day -- espicially if you don't have a homebrew supply shop nearby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T17:19:40.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="186" CreationDate="2010-11-09T17:34:26.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a hopback, and I now consider it an indispensable part of my rig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use it primarily to filter out any sediment, hop solids, etc before the wort goes through my plate chiller, since it would be very difficult to get particles out of there, if they got in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will sometimes use it without any hops in it, or with other ingredients (like fruit) if appropriate for the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested, I have described my &lt;a href=&quot;http://kaeding.name/articles/2007/02/03/on-hopbacks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hopback setup&lt;/a&gt; in more detail on my blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T17:34:26.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="188" CreationDate="2010-11-09T17:44:36.803" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Jeff said, the biggest advantage of liquid yeast is variety.  Wyeast and White Labs offer a huge variety of yeast, including seasonal and limited time offerings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to take into consideration when using liquid yeast is the number of yeast cells.  As John Palmer mentions in his book &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot;&gt;&quot;How to Brew&quot;&lt;/a&gt; dry yeast contains more cells than liquid yeast and more cells potentially = better final product.  For that reason, he recommends making a yeast starter when using liquid (dry doesn't even have to be re-hydrated first).  However, he states on his website (not in his book, at least not my copy) that they have been coming out with larger 175 ml smack-packs that do not require a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T17:44:36.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2010-11-09T17:45:56.413" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheapest = Brew in the winter =P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Edit:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old question, but I see that it still gets some hits from time to time so I thought I would add a bit to my answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the benefits of this approach (besides the fact that no extra equipment is required) is that it gets you back to brewing's roots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seasons used to influence brewing in fundamental ways.  The obvious way is that you are going to have warmer fermentation in warm weather and cooler in cold.  But also because our taste in beer tends to go towards lighter in warm weather and heavier in cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lagering was only available if you had cold weather or if you happened to have a handy cave system available.  Technology definitely allows us to produce a more consistent product if we are willing to shell out the money.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think there's something to be said about sticking close to our brewing roots.  I personally find it fun and feel like it forces me to brew a larger variety of beer rather than sticking to the same few styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2017-01-23T15:17:19.890" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T15:17:19.890" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2010-11-09T17:46:46.927" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally add the dry hops to the secondary vessel before I siphon the beer in, to try to get around this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you do want them wet, so they are really in the beer, and can leech the flavors into the liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T17:46:46.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="189" CreationDate="2010-11-09T17:51:46.077" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly use plastic bottles like this.  In fact, one introductory homebrew kit, Mr. Beer, includes these types of bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One main advantage is that you can give the bottles a squeeze to gauge the carbonation level.  When the bottles are hard, they are ready for consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that lighter color bottles (plastic or glass) will allow more UV light to enter the beer, which can give it that 'skunky' aroma.  If you can find them, use brown plastic bottles.  (I have never seen any of these, except for the Mr. Beer ones, so you may have trouble finding them.)  Otherwise, be sure to keep the bottles shielded from light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the same concerns that apply in the plastic vs. glass debate for fermenters apply here. Plastic can scratch more easily, and when it does, it can be very hard to sanitize effectively, since bacteria can hide in the scratches.  On the other hand, if you drop a plastic bottle on your concrete patio, there won't be any broken glass!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="16146" LastEditDate="2018-04-03T15:16:06.770" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T15:16:06.770" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2010-11-09T18:07:40.953" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boil or sanitize a few marbles and toss them in a hop bag with the hops. Tie off and let it sink to the bottom of your secondary vessel. The marbles will keep the hops submerged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've siphoned out the beer and it's time to remove the hops, the marbles will also make it easier to get the hops out, especially when using glass carboys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make things even easier (both for dry-hopping and cleanup), use multiple bags and fewer hops in each, rather than placing all of your hops in one bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T18:07:40.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="174" CreationDate="2010-11-09T18:12:40.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your carboy glass or plastic? If you're using a plastic carboy you definitely don't want to go mashing things around inside because you'll run the risk of scratches. Bacteria hide in scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend adding some OxyClean or PBW, some hot (not boiling!) water, and shaking up the carboy until the fruit pieces break up into smaller ones that will pour out. Fruit that has been soaking in liquid for a long time is going to be pretty soft and should break up fairly easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T18:12:40.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="201" CreationDate="2010-11-09T18:28:13.923" Score="8" ViewCount="1717" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently, if I want my beer &quot;today&quot; I put the gas into the out tube at the desired target pressure.  I then rest the keg on my lap and gently rock it for about 20 mins, until I don't hear any more bubbling.  Then I let it sit for a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easier way to carbonate quickly?  I hate having to disconnect my gas line to get the keg out of the fridge, and I hate sitting on the floor treating a corny keg like a baby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T19:16:48.003" Title="Is there a quicker way to carbonate a corny keg?" Tags="|carbonation|corny-keg|kegs|kegging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="198" CreationDate="2010-11-09T18:31:48.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's about the fastest method I know of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I've stopped doing it. It might just be me, but I've found I prefer a slightly slower approach. I'll turn up the pressure for 2-3 days and let it sit in the fridge until at the right pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might not make much of a difference, but the carbonation feels different in my mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T18:31:48.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="145" CreationDate="2010-11-09T18:54:02.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://makebeer.net/item.asp?idProduct=1&amp;amp;idCategory=1&amp;amp;idSubCategory=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Coopers Microbrewry Kit&lt;/a&gt;.  Its $99, and comes with just about everything you need to start brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Plastic 30 liter fermenter with lid (and o ring),&#xA;  makes 23 liters (6 Gallons)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Hydrometer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Sediment Reducer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Plastic Spoon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 &quot;Little Bottler&quot; tube and bottling valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Tap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Airlock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Airlock grommet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Thermometer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30 740ml PET bottles and caps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Instruction booklet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Instructional DVD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Cooper’s Lager Beer Kit Package – which includes:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 1.7kg Coopers Lager Beer Kit Concentrate with yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 1 kg Coopers Brewing Sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Bag of Carbonation drops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually you'll want to move up from the Coopers beer recipes (which are a bit boring), but the fermenting equipment that comes with the kit is quality stuff.  I especially like the 30 liter fermenter.  It's much better than a bucket and works great as a primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T18:54:02.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="198" CreationDate="2010-11-09T18:58:53.373" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, do make sure the beer is cold before doing your pressurize and shake. The colder the liquid, the more CO2 it can absorb. Otherwise, you can't go much faster than you mention as far as I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T18:58:53.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="146" CreationDate="2010-11-09T19:03:18.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most obvious place to gather wild yeasts consistently to me is on the surface of fresh picked fruit. Get a few non-waxed apples (i.e. not the ones in the typical grocery store), mash 'em up, add some water and you'll get a yeast feast going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is basically what wild-fermented cider is and I've got a batch of fresh-pressed cider that I'm letting ferment using the wild yeast from the apples. I'm planning on harvesting that yeast and culturing it to see what I get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T03:23:00.133" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T03:23:00.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="98" CreationDate="2010-11-09T19:10:26.310" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of sugar isn't going to change the output sweet/dry result much. Most yeasts used for cider will completely ferment out ALL of the sugar they're given access to. That means that the addition of more sugar than what's in the apple juice originally is for additional alcohol and any flavor the non-fermentable bits of the sugars leave behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, honey and brown sugar will completely ferment out, but leave some interesting flavors behind. However, most of the yeasts will eat it all, resulting in dry cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sweet ciders are usually achieved by either using a yeast that specifically is a bit lazy or by backsweetening. An example of a lazy yeast is &quot;Sweet Mead&quot; yeast, which will leave a bit of sugar behind when they're completely done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For backsweetening, it's a bit trickier because you have to stop the yeast activity and add some sugar. Chemical or heat pasteurization is a sure bet, and cold-crashing can work, but the yeast are still slightly active and they'll return in full force if the liquid warms up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To that more &quot;inert&quot; liquid, you add sugar or apple juice concentrate and you'll get some sweetness. That's what the sweet commercial ciders, like Woodchuck do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That can be a problem if you want to bottle condition/carbonate because you want live yeast to eat sugar to carbonate, but you want them to leave your backsweetening sugar alone, which doesn't exactly work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T19:10:26.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="143" CreationDate="2010-11-09T19:12:58.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lemon zest/peel is going to mostly give you a hint of lemon flavor and does little to the pH, which would be what the citric acid is there for. You could definitely use both and have it turn out fine and it will also turn out fine with neither, but the result will taste different. The difference is going to come down to preferences. If you already know you don't like a tart cider, I'd ditch both. If you like tart, dry ciders, add both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T19:12:58.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="209" CreationDate="2010-11-09T19:15:29.157" Score="1" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make a sour beer, and I have a bunch of lactic acid from a previous brew (never used it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from letting the mash sit overnight, how do I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T12:53:42.610" Title="How do I make a sour mash with lactic acid?" Tags="|all-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="218" CreationDate="2010-11-09T19:16:43.757" Score="11" ViewCount="2303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always bottled my beers (haven't invested in a kegging setup yet), and I've never once used a bottle brush. I simply soak my bottles in OxyClean to clean them, give them a shake, then rinse, sanitize and bottle. I've never had infection problems or gunk in the bottles, even with ones that haven't been rinsed out directly after use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are bottle brushes really necessary, or are they more of a precautionary, &quot;just-in-case&quot; kind of thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:49:25.957" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T01:14:12.833" Title="Are bottle brushes necessary?" Tags="|equipment|bottling|bottles|cleaning|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="206" CreationDate="2010-11-09T19:18:48.140" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used it, either. I tried once, but without soaking the bottle it was all but useless. And soaking provided all the clean I needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, I don't think they're necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T19:18:48.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="189" CreationDate="2010-11-09T19:18:57.937" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soda bottles are made of PET plastic, which is actually the same stuff that the &quot;Better Bottle&quot; carboys are made out of. The plastic itself is very compatible with beer. The biggest down sides are the color and transparency that others mentioned for light destroying the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other area of concern is the caps and pressure. As far as pressure is concerned, these are designed for much higher pressures than beer. Soda is often closer to 30psi (beer's often served at half of that) and the bottles can handle something like 120psi before actually giving out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caps are designed for the same pressures. I would want to see if re-using the caps would cause oxygen leaks, but since the &quot;new&quot; caps just screw on too, I don't think that's a concern worth worrying about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, I'd put the same beer into half a dozen PET bottles and half a dozen glass bottles. Then, at a month, 2 months, 3 months, 6 months, a year, etc. open a matching pair and taste to see how they compare. The best way to do this is have someone else pour them into glasses for you, so it's blind. If you can't taste the difference, go with the cheaper bottles. If you can, decide accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T19:18:57.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="205" CreationDate="2010-11-09T19:22:30.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can just add lactic acid directly, but everything I've read says that gives you a much &quot;simpler&quot; kind of sour instead of the complex sour that comes from genuinely spoiling the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A member of my homebrew club made a brown sour that we tried recently and it was really good. What he did to sour was to put a wet mash sit in the oven with just the pilot light going for 24 hours or so and then boiled that. The result is that everything in the fermenter is still sanitary, but it was still soured a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try letting it go longer as I could have gone for more sour than what he had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T19:22:30.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="189" CreationDate="2010-11-09T19:51:39.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;These bottles are fine to use, just as long as you keep them in a dark place.  They're generally even considered stronger than glass bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using a two liter, keep in mind the extra oxygen in the bottle if it's not full, it could make things taste a bit papery.  You'll also end up with more yeast sediment at the bottom, so pour carefully if you don't like yeast in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T19:51:39.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="214" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:17:52.730" Score="8" ViewCount="950" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently threw out my racking cane, it was turning cloudy and there was a piece of trub stuck in it that I couldn't get out for the life of me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember the lady at a LHBS telling me you should replace all plastic components (even buckets) every six months, but this particular shop always pushes unneeded merchandise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking buckets can be used indefinitely, or at least while they're in good shape.  And transfer stuff can be used as long as they don't taste bad since by the time you use them, you should be mostly out of fermentables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T18:46:11.867" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T18:46:11.867" Title="How often do people replace their plastic brewing components?" Tags="|equipment|racking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="230" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:18:10.933" Score="11" ViewCount="21355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my first batch of beer over the weekend. I didn't have quite enough bottled water on hand to add to my wort to make 5 gallons, so I used tap water. I sanitized the hose sprayer on my sink by soaking it in sanitizing solution for 5 minutes, then used it to spray tap water into my primary fermenter until I reached 5 gallons. (I also figured that spraying would help to aerate.) In the future, should I boil the tap water first, or is adding it this way going to turn out ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T19:27:43.723" Title="Tap Water: Safe to use without boiling?" Tags="|boil|water|bacteria|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-03-12T18:31:30.260" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:19:21.260" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically tap water should always be sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically I've never sanitized tap water and never had a problem.  Your beer should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T20:19:21.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="211" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:22:39.603" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a great question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with plastic is that it can easily scratch and harbor bacteria. I'm fairly certain even rubbing your hand along the inside of a plastic bucket causes small scratching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your guideline is fairly good: check your equipment regularly, and replace something as soon as it begins to impart an off flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had my buckets for years, but I'm getting to the point of being nervous about them. I've been transitioning to Better Bottles anyway, so they're getting less use. Most of my tubing needs to be replaced more often than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end I tend to replacing tubing more often than I may need to because it's relatively cheap. I'd much rather waste a little money on extra tubing than have to toss an entire batch due to infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T20:22:39.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:22:59.213" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't even add bottled water to my bucket without boiling it first. You may be fine, but you are tempting the beer gods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T20:22:59.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:24:36.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you're adding water before the fermentation starts you're probably fairly safe, especially if you live where you can get city water. If you have a well you might want to test your water, but generally speaking, if you like the taste of your tap water (and you don't get sick drinking it), it should be good enough for your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T20:24:36.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:27:11.113" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prepare my labels in inkscape/gimp and print them out onto card stock. I cut them a bit smaller than a business card, punch a hole in one side, and tie it around the bottle neck with a bit of twine. It gives a really classy effect without having to scrape stickers off the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T20:27:11.113" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="206" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:31:37.240" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a brush if you have solids in your bottles like if you picked up an empty case from the store and it had bits of lemon slices or cigarette butts. Also, from your own bottles look out for yeast if you didn't empty your bottles completely when you drank them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T20:31:37.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:34:27.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm going to be giving beer as a gift or will be cellaring my beer for a while I print my labels on mailing labels.  Then I give them a light spray of lacquer to waterproof them (so the ink doesn't run from condensation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they're not for such a formal affair I mark the cap with a sharpie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T21:14:04.070" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:14:04.070" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5257" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:36:39.027" Score="12" ViewCount="6427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been kegging for awhile now, but I still haven't managed to successfully fill bottles from my kegs without losing all pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a counter pressure beer filler or a Blichmann Beer gun, and for the moment I'd rather spend my beer-money on something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The few times I've tried to fill a couple bottles I've done this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chill the keg (well, already done)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chill the bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn down the keg pressure to almost nothing, like 1-2 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise the keg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert a piece of bottle-length tubing over my cobra picnic tab&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slowly fill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll leave the bottle in the fridge, then come back a couple hours later (or bring it to a friend's house, etc) and the beer has almost no carbonation. My capper seems to work fine, as my regularly bottled beers don't seem to lose any pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:49:50.293" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T17:57:55.567" Title="How can I fill bottles from a keg and maintain pressure" Tags="|techniques|bottling|carbonation|kegs|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="206" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:36:47.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never invested in a brush.  If I can't get something out of a bottle I don't sweat it and just throw it away.  I usually have a constant influx of bottles that can replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2011-01-27T17:26:48.807" LastActivityDate="2011-01-27T17:26:48.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="206" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:37:46.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've also never used a brush. I have a bottle-cleaning attachment to my faucet that shoots a jet of water up into the bottle, which I've found removes all but the worst sediment. For those really bad bottles, I just soak overnight with a little bleach solution (or just toss the bottle, I'm lazy and there's only so much effort that can be justified for one old bottle!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T20:37:46.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="228" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:45:44.660" Score="5" ViewCount="925" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I finish fermentation I am left with a large amount of extra yeast in the bottom of the carboy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I reuse this yeast in any way?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully to avoid buying yeast again every single batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:33:26.850" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:33:26.850" Title="Reusing Yeast From previous Fermentation" Tags="|beer|yeast|fermentation|cider|best-practices|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:46:15.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here in the UK it's usual for tap water to be chlorinated. This kills bacteria and hence could also kill yeast. I read that leaving tap water to stand for a long period (hours) will make the water safe to use as the chlorine evaporates off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="54" LastEditorUserId="54" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T23:00:35.040" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T23:00:35.040" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="223" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:49:05.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally reuse it on a bigger recipe unless you're washing the yeast too.  If you already have wort made, just put it right on top of the yeast cake.  If not, empty off most of the beer, and dump the yeast into sanitized plastic bottles (glass can break if capped), then put them in the fridge.  If you don't have plastic bottles, use glass, but cover them with foil rather than an air tight cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T20:49:05.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="231" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:54:30.187" Score="5" ViewCount="746" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the proper method of pitching a starter? Do I just pour the whole thing in or do I need to &quot;harvest&quot; a certain portion of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just started using starters (.25-.5 Gallons water + 2-4 cups Pale LME + 1 White Labs vial). I've been just dumping the whole contents of the starter (after a vigorous shake) into the primary. Is there a better / more correct way of pitching a starter? Am I risking adding off-flavors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:11:44.337" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:11:44.337" Title="What is the proper method of pitching a starter?" Tags="|yeast|techniques|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="223" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:56:08.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can reuse it, yes. As PMV said, it's usually ideal for a larger batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside of this is that often this yeast cake will have lots of hops and other trub intermixed within, which can be very bitter, affecting the flavor of the next batch. Generally it's OK to do this if the bitterness levels and yeast profile characteristics are similar.  For example, make a hefeweizen on the first batch, then pitch a wort for a weizenbock on the yeast cake.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better practice to get into is to make starters.  Make a starter at least a day before your brew day, with say 75% of the yeast from your store-bought package.  Use the other 25% to make up a second, smaller starter that you can then store for future use.  This way you're assured of having a clean strain without any possible infections or other weirdness from your yeast cake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastEditorUserId="123" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T21:35:53.927" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:35:53.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:59:26.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do pitch hot, keep an eye on your airlock. I've gotten impatient during hot summer brew sessions and pitched at 80+, and occasionally the vacuum created as the wort cools will suck most of the sanitizer out of the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T20:59:26.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:01:41.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two issues that need to be addressed before it's safe to use tap water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, your water is likely chlorinated.  Aside from possibly affecting the yeast, this almost always results in a chlorophenol flavor (think bandaid smell).  The chlorine reacts with chemicals in the hops to form the chlorophenol.  To fix this, make sure you carbon filter your water to remove the chlorine.  This goes for all brewing water, whether adding in your mash, boil, or before fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is sanitation.  To be safe, you should probably boil and chill the water.  There's likely bacteria that's hard to kill near the opening of your faucet, hose, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastEditorUserId="123" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T23:21:03.710" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T23:21:03.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="227" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:02:02.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're using the proper method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people pour off the flat beer and only pitch the solid yeast, but it's overkill, especially if you're making a starter with Pale LME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're making a starter from wort you saved from your last imperial black-patent malt bomb, and you're pitching into a one gallon batch of wife lager, then definitely pour off the wort, otherwise you should be all good pouring in the whole starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:02:02.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="148" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:07:24.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that for bottling you only need to pitch 1/4 the amount of yeast you would at the beginning, so for a 5 gallon batch, 1/2 a container of liquid yeast or 1/4 of a packet of dry yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would look at the alcohol rating on the yeast you're using.  If it's rated above 7 you should be fine.  If you're nervous, just make sure a little of your yeast cake gets into your bottling bucket and you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2012-01-04T18:47:01.560" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T18:47:01.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="227" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:07:36.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything I've read says to just toss the whole thing in there. The health and cell count of the yeast as well as the temperature of the wort is all that really matters. The off flavors come from those factors being &quot;off&quot; from where they should be for the style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:07:36.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="223" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:09:52.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Search for &quot;washing yeast&quot; and you'll find lots of articles and videos showing how to harvest the yeast from a batch and reuse it for a new batch. Every time you do it, you're also carrying over any mutations or changes that colony of yeast has, meaning you can't go too many generations out before the flavors will start to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:09:52.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="239" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:12:29.843" Score="11" ViewCount="4720" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed my first oatmeal stout (the Brewer's Best kit), and decided I'd try to add a little &quot;holiday&quot; flair. At my local brewing supply store, I found a recipe for a holiday ale, so I followed the spicing directions used in that, but I wonder if there's a better way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the ingredients I used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 orange, with whole cloves stuck into the skin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cinnamon sticks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;peeled ginger root&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the last 15 minutes of boiling the wort, I put all of the above in an extra grain bag I had laying around and added them to the wort. I boiled for 15 minutes before pulling the spices out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if that's enough time to get the flavors from the spices. I didn't add anything to the primary fermenter. Should I additional spices when I rack it off to the secondary? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other spices or flavors work well with holiday beers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T02:36:07.410" Title="When do I add spices to spice up a holiday brew?" Tags="|holiday|spices|stout|procedure|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:16:32.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done some printing of labels and also some stickers from StickerMule.com, but for quick labels, I use one of those &quot;DYMO&quot; labelmaker machines where you type on it and it spits out a text label. It's pretty handy for labeling fermenters, kegs, etc. with contents and date. We bought it to label crap in the garage, but it turned out useful for bottles and the rest too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:16:32.423" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="220" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:22:18.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Counter pressure and beer gun aside. I think you might want to up the pressure. ALso you can get a stopper to run through and squeese it to let a little pressure to let the beer in but keep it pressurized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:22:18.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="129" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:23:18.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will actually age just as well in the bottle as they do in the fermenter, assuming they are kept in the same temperature controlled environment.  In fact they will be better off when it comes to UV damage since they're in brown glass, not clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are right that many times big beers are fermented for longer periods of time, but that's because as the alcohol content rises and the oxygen is depleted the yeast slow down.  You wanna make sure that you've fermented all of the sugar out before bottling.  I currently have a Belgian Tripel that was brewed over a month ago and is still fermenting (the predicted abv is ~9.5).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:23:18.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="235" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:27:57.007" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making one right now with cinnamon sticks, nutmeg shavings, peppercorns, orange zest, and vanilla bean.  I actually didn't add any to the boil.  Instead I'm making a spice extract (a jar with some vodka and all of the spices thrown in) and I will add at bottling time to about a quarter of my batch.  I've heard from some people that adding spices during the boil actually cooks off a lot of the good flavor compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:27:57.007" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="235" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:29:17.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally add spices at the last 5 mins of the boil for ground spices.  I'd say 15 mins is fine for most whole spices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you add a whole, unpeeled orange into your wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:29:17.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="227" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:29:36.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether to just pitch the whole thing, or chilling (to drop the yeast if necessary) and decanting the liquid depends on your beer and batch size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, to make a Russian imperial stout, I might make a large 2 liter starter (maybe even larger). Generally, starters should be minimally hopped and have an OG of about 1.040-1.050.  If I were to pitch this whole thing into a 5 gallon batch, I'd be adding roughly 1/2 gallon, bringing the total to 5.5 gallons.  My starter would represent roughly 9% of the total wort.  I for one wouldn't want to have a weak starter 'diluting' 9% of the overall much heavier, maltier beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If however, I were pitching a lightly hopped 1 liter starter into a mild belgian pale ale or hefeweizen, I wouldn't care all that much and skip the chilling and decanting step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:29:36.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="223" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:39:51.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been kinda laid back in my re-use of yeast cakes on the bottom of the fermenter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My technique isn't the &quot;Best Practice&quot;, but it works and is really easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll often buy a couple of the same extract kits and do them back to back, when one is done primary fermentation and I've siphoned it into the secondary, then I'll just start the next batch directly on the yeast cake that's sitting at the bottom of the primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:39:51.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="220" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:40:32.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use normal pressure, don't fill &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; slow, then fill them so a little foam starts pouring over, then cap right onto the foam.  Wipe the beer off the bottle after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:40:32.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="156" CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:03:55.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A city water report is the first place to look, but given where your city gets it's water, the values can fluctuate pretty significantly. For example, my city gets water from a few sources; sometimes they'll mix in well water, and thus the water has higher hardness, or they might be taking surface water shortly after a fresh rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question to also ask is &quot;why&quot; should you test your water. To answer that, a good starting point are sections 15.0 though 15.4 in Palmer's How to Brew:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-1.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water chemistry does have a significant affect on beer flavor. Often water chemistry is the last bit of tweaking needed to make a good beer great.  Having said that, it's also an easy way to muck up a beer. Water chemistry (aside from proper filtration) should be your last concern in making beer.  Sanitation, yeast handling, temperature control, recipe formulation and brewing process should all come first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T22:03:55.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="260" CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:08:57.657" Score="5" ViewCount="1834" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should I add hops to my starter recipe? I just started using starters, and I haven't been hopping them at all. I didn't even think of adding hops until I read some of the answers on &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/227/what-is-the-proper-method-of-pitching-a-starter&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. What are the reasons to hop or not hop a starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T15:26:23.360" Title="Should a starter be hopped?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="118" CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:12:38.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say if it doesn't start in 3 days, then bring it up to the higher end of what the yeast likes, then wait another day or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still don't see any activity, take a gravity reading, if you're still at your OG then you're stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some yeasts out there, Wyeast's saison yeast comes to mind, that ferments incredibly slow at room temperature, which is why you should take that gravity reading before repitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T22:12:38.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:16:54.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A great book for recipe design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Designing Great Beers&lt;/a&gt; by Ray Daniels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mk6L0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T22:16:54.293" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-09T22:16:54.293" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="245" CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:23:28.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no reason to hop a starter. The quantity compared to the full batch shouldn't have a dramatic effect on the flavor profile and the antiseptic qualities of hops should not be necessary if you prepare the starter well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best method I found for preparing starters is to make a 2-3 gallon batch of wort using a light extract and then filling canning jars with the wort, bringing them to a boil to sanitize and seal the jars. You then have a ready source to use in your starters without any extra work needed when you do your starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T22:23:28.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="391" CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:31:23.410" Score="0" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I need to add some 6-Row or otherwise tweak this recipe? I'm going to be brewing a dunkelweizen later this month. My recipe uses 6 lbs. of wheat extract and 2.5 lbs. of caramel and chocolate wheat, and the yeast is Wyeast's Weihenstephaner (3068). I'm planning to steep the wheat in a mesh bag in 5 gallons of water for at 155F for 45 minutes before the boil. Looking at some all-grain recipes for dunkelweizen I see that some add 6-Row barley to help the wheat convert. Do I need to add some to my recipe or will the liquor I get from steeping + the extract ferment well enough on its own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastEditorUserId="121" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T21:23:34.573" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T14:25:05.100" Title="Do I need to add 6-Row to my extract + grains dunkelweizen for proper conversion?" Tags="|beer|ingredients|extract-plus-grains|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="602" CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:38:29.213" Score="5" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen a marked improvement in hop flavor/quality from first wort hopping (adding hops at sparge) vs. late hopping vs. dry hopping vs. a hopback? Are there specific advantages to doing so? Hints for doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T12:14:45.467" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T19:34:15.247" Title="Has anyone had experience with first wort hopping? Did you find the results worthwhile?" Tags="|hops|hopback|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="162" CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:39:45.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with sgwill, but I would add that you also want to pick a style that can be done with just extract + hops + yeast. Not having additional grains to steep cuts time and effort off of that first brew day. One of the best I've used is a simple hefeweizen: 6-8 lbs. wheat LME + 1oz. tettnanger (60 mins) + Wyeast 3068 (Weihenstephan Weizen). Easy to brew, very tasty, conditions quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T22:39:45.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:42:36.630" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried a couple of solutions, but the one that works best for me is an overnight soak in a big tub of water with a half-gallon of ammonia. The labels just slide right off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T22:42:36.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:45:49.230" Score="4" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;How were the results compared to a traditional decoction? Any tricks to know about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: For some context, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewery.org/brewery/library/DecoPressureCR0497.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastEditorUserId="123" LastEditDate="2010-11-13T01:39:52.607" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T01:39:52.607" Title="Anyone have experience doing a decoction with a pressure cooker?" Tags="|beer|mash|decoction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3508" CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:53:00.013" Score="8" ViewCount="6521" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for recipe formulation, IBU/SG calculations, brewing timers, inventory control, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bonus if the app renders my iPhone waterproof(wortproof).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T14:20:25.930" Title="Any good iPhone/iPad apps for brewing?" Tags="|brewing|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="98" CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:57:14.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The technique I use is to pick a yeast that has a low tolerance for alcohol and the ferment will extinguish itself as the alcohol content rises above the yeast's tolerance. Whatever sugars are left over after the yeast dies off determines your sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a &quot;spiked&quot; semisweet cider I add 5 pounds of brown sugar per 5 gallons of juice and ferment with White Labs English Cider yeast.  The yeast tops out around 10% alcohol (!), but leaves a noticable amount of sweetness behind.  The same yeast in straight juice ferments to dryness since apple juice doesn't normally have enough sugars to push the alcohol content beyond the yeast's tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the yeast has not been killed off by sulfites or heat, it's still available to help carbonate the cider in the bottle.  Bottling agitates the mixture and aerates it somewhat which wakes up the yeast just enough to carbonate.  Make sure the primary fermentation has run its full course and is fully dormant before bottling or you run the risk of exploding bottles!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T22:57:14.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="254" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:08:58.020" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not that I am aware of, but I would be surprised if there was nothing, if so sounds like you've found my next pet project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to run some of the javascript based calculators that are all over the web through the phone, but it might be a bit of a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T23:08:58.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="254" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:16:11.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kentplacesoftware.com/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kent Place Software&lt;/a&gt; produces some useful brewing apps for iPhone and Mac. They also have an iPad version in the works. I've used their Beer Alchemy Mac software for awhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eNGnB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Beer Alchemy Touch&quot;&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kentplacesoftware.com/products/BeerAlchemyTouch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BeerAlchemy Touch&lt;/a&gt; is their iPhone version. It's a bit pricey at $14.99, but provides wireless syncing between the mac version and the iPhone version, which is really handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wbWS6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kentplacesoftware.com/products/BrewMath.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brew Math&lt;/a&gt; is also handy, and only $2.99. Not as fully featured as BeerAlchemy, but is described as a &quot;powerful brewing calculator in your pocket.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T23:16:11.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="129" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:20:56.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are advantages/disadvantages to each. Aging in bulk will minimize the oxidation that will occur (all other things being equal) as it has less surface area. Some level of oxidation can be considered a benefit in a barleywine, but it can go too far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think if you are looking at keeping a barleywine for a very long time, it is best to do the primary aging in the fermenter, assuming it is well sealed (air lock) or in a keg (which also offers you the easy ability to sample it at different ages). Bottles are an advantage as it will free up a fermenter and potentially make storage easier (as well as make sample it at different ages easy, also).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple other things to consider, you're going to lose some carbonation on bottles, especially if you keep them for a long time. Corking can help this, but again, bottling after the primary aging works well, also. And a keg or a carboy is going to have more thermal inertia than individual bottles so will be less likely to suffer from temperature changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T23:20:56.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="146" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:24:20.837" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a bit involved, but I've done it with good results. The hardest thing to do is to separate the yeast from any other wild molds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wild fruit. I have a peach tree and plum tree so it worked out well for me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2lbs. DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gelatin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Petri Dishes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Conical flask w/ airlock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take 1 lb. of the DME and dissolve into warm water. You're shooting for a gravity of 1.020 and an IBU of around 20. Add hops and boil. Strain into conical flask. Cover immediately and let cool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wash and sanitize your hands as well as possible. Peel the skin off of whatever fruit your using and add to the flask. Attach airlock and let alone. In about 3 days you should begin to see fermentation. The hops help inhibit bacterial growth and you should mostly get saccharomyces (brewing yeast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your petri dishes you want to take the rest of your DME and gelatin and make an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_5563283_make-agar-plates.html&quot;&gt;agar plate&lt;/a&gt;. Agar agar works best, but you can use your gelatin. And obviously the DME is used in place of the sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take some of the yeast that has begun to settle on your conical flask and streak with a needle on your agar plates. After a few days you will be able to identify individual growths. These are colonies from individual cells. This makes it easier to separate your saccharomyces from any other odd bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From here you gently remove the culture from the agar agar and make small starters. I will typically take two or three of the cultures I find and make starters from those. Start small and then build up from there. I typically do three to four starters in graduated steps before I have a culture that is ready to be pitched into beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T23:24:20.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="245" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:30:03.363" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there's no need to hop a starter. You aren't trying to make a beer, you're trying to replicate yeast. Hop oils do actually inhibit the growth of yeast a little, so adding them to your starter would defeat the purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T23:30:03.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="293" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:36:10.680" Score="7" ViewCount="867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to have more brewing capacity, but I am limited by the amount of temperature controlled storage that I have.  Do you only need temp control in the primary fermentation process?  I'm thinking that I store the bottle beer at room temperature, so what is the difference in storing the beer in the secondary at room temperature.  Please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2010-11-14T01:19:17.547" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T01:19:17.547" Title="Can I put a secondary fermenter in room temperature without creating any off flavors?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="265" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:39:25.797" Score="32" ViewCount="3124" Body="&lt;p&gt;My extract beers are good, I think better than most commercial beers that I buy.  Extract takes less time, less equipment and seems to produce great quality beers.  Why do people do full grain? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastEditorUserId="121" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T22:05:09.060" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T03:29:15.110" Title="What's the point of going all-grain?" Tags="|beer|all-grain|extract|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="264" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:40:57.780" Score="8" ViewCount="6225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like using a starter because it seems like it cuts down on the fermentation time, but do I really need to do it for beers that are under 1.070 OG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T15:54:09.600" Title="Should I always use a starter?" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="263" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:45:01.990" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope.  Not unless you're using a wet yeast that says you need to.  Some people even say that you &lt;em&gt;shouldn't&lt;/em&gt; make a starter if you're using dry yeast in beers lower than 1.070.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T23:45:01.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="262" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:48:23.187" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;All grain is cheaper (in the not-so-long run), you get way more flexibility on your grain bill and mash, I'd argue it's more fun, and it's really easy to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T23:48:23.187" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="262" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:56:04.113" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;After ten years of kits and extracts, I finally went all-grain 6 weeks ago.  &lt;strong&gt;It is so much fun!&lt;/strong&gt;  If you enjoy what you're doing now, I'd say give it a try because there is so much more to enjoy.  I've brewed on 5 of the last 6 Saturdays, and had a great time each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only spent about $150 on extra equipment, and that includes a grain mill.  I can buy my grain uncrushed in bulk and save a lot.  I can now brew a batch of beer for about $14 of ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't get much better than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T23:56:04.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="250" CreationDate="2010-11-10T00:00:43.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried FWH once and was under the impression that it would somehow add much less bitter than a 60 min addition.  I don't remember why I though this, but in my experience it's not true at all, the hops in my beer were all bitter and no aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T00:00:43.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="328" CreationDate="2010-11-10T00:07:12.157" Score="18" ViewCount="10469" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have made a few coffee beers.  Once we used a cheap coffee by brewing a strong pot and adding to the boil.  It turned out very acidic.  The next beer we brewer we went with a little higher OG 1.070 and added 1/2 pound of Starbucks breakfast blend for the last 5 minutes of steeping the grains.  That beer turned out great, but we could not taste the coffee as much as we would like.  I'm interested in doing another one and I've been considering Kona coffee as it is bold but mild or chicory b/c a friend had good results.  How do you make a great bold coffee beer that you can really taste the coffee but is not too acidic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:34:20.157" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:34:20.157" Title="How to add coffee/chicory to beer?" Tags="|beer|stout|adjuncts|coffee|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="276" CreationDate="2010-11-10T00:07:32.303" Score="6" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to make a sour beer for the first time.  I'm open to any sort of all grain recipe, fruity, malty, whatever.  All I request is that you've already made it, and really like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also open to any mashing technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T04:35:34.783" Title="Can somebody give me a good recipe that they've tried for a sour beer?" Tags="|recipe|lambics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2010-11-11T16:58:15.050" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="263" CreationDate="2010-11-10T00:20:00.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really, you don't ever &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to use a starter. However, I've found that if I don't have time to make a good starter, using two vials of yeast is a viable alternative. In fact, after discovering that it works very well, I've gotten noticeably more lazy in making starters in time for brew day. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use a starter primarily to insure you have enough yeast. If you use two vials of yeast, you can forego the starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll go further to add that, although there's a lot of talk about &quot;must haves&quot;, starters being one of the big ones, the only &quot;must haves&quot; in brewing are good ingredients, and good hygiene. Any other time you hear about a 'must have', think about what it accomplishes: chances are good there's another way to do it. Starters are a perfect example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T00:20:00.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="261" CreationDate="2010-11-10T00:27:33.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While using the correct temperature for the yeast is important, you can still have a good finished product if it isn't controlled.  The only time I do anything is cool it down if it gets too hot.  My apartment is pretty much always around 70 degrees F and my primary, secondary, and bottle storage is all at room temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might have some slight off flavors from it, but nothing really noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T00:27:33.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="162" CreationDate="2010-11-10T00:29:34.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the exact kind of beer matters, but I think you would be best with something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simple beers that only have a bittering component will take less effort than more complicated pale ales that have bittering, flavoring and aroma hops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something that is not high gravity.  You want to start with something that is OG 1.070 or less, it just makes the whole progress easier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use dry yeast.  You have a a whole bunch more yeast cells with the dry yeast.  You don't need to make a starter and its cheaper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a malt extract beer with some grains, but do not start with a mini-mash or all-grain.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a recipe kit from a home brew store that does not require a secondary fermenter.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do it this time of year (at least in the south eastern us where the avg temp is in the 60s) so you do not have to use a temperature controlled fridge.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy 22 oz bottles so the bottling process goes easier.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a sanitizer that you can buy from a home brew store.  I do not recommend using bleach.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above all, you do need to brew something that you like, otherwise you won't want to progress and relax, have a home brew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastEditorUserId="8248" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T17:41:28.153" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T17:41:28.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="126" CreationDate="2010-11-10T00:36:20.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid I can't comment from experience, but if you're interested in &quot;weird beers,&quot; I highly recommend Randy Mosher's &quot;Radical Brewing.&quot; He has a 6-page list of herbs and spices for brewing, and an updated and &lt;em&gt;safe&lt;/em&gt; (2 of the 3 traditional gruit herbs are dangerous - bog myrtle is the safe one) gruit recipe. He lists mugwort as a bitter herb, but doesn't give any sort of bitterness rating. He also doesn't list any taste qualities, which suggests to me that any taste contribution is overshadowed by the bitterness. He does suggest adding low-alpha hops to gruits purely for their preservative qualities, so using mugwort instead of hops would definitely shorten your shelf-life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T00:36:20.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="269" CreationDate="2010-11-10T00:53:17.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real trick to the sour beers is the yeast selection. I like the Roselaire Blend from Wyeast, but you can pick any one of a dozen types of bugs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can mash as usual. You could try a sour mash instead of the bugged yeast, but I haven't tried that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the IBUs low, as they're not normally featured here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either complete fermentation with a regular clean strain, then transfer to a long term secondary with the bugs, or add the bugs earlier. The earlier you add the bugs the more sour you'll get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extended aging is where the bugs really start to work. You'll need some additional oxygen, either by using a plastic bucket or a wooden bung. Once the pellicle drops it's ready, usually around 6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T00:53:17.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2010-11-10T00:57:22.003" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a big tub of water with some baking soda in it.  I just tossed rinsed bottles in there as I accumulated them.  Not sure how long it really took, since I didn't try and remove the labels for a while, but they came off really easily.  As far as the amount of baking soda, maybe a teaspoon per 2 or 3 gallons? Not that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="138" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T00:57:22.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="269" CreationDate="2010-11-10T01:12:33.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a soured Peach and Plum Saison recently for a friends wedding. It was a huge hit and simple to make. Instead of using various bacteria for souring I did a sour mash. It's simple to do and a lot less time consuming. To top it all of, this was a damn good beer. It's light bodied, highly carbonated, fruit forward and nicely soured.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f72/joie-de-vivre-soured-saison-plums-peaches-203084/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Joie De Vivre - Soured Saison with Peaches and Plums&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you like it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T01:12:33.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="268" CreationDate="2010-11-10T01:23:37.550" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently did a breakfast stout and simply put some ground coffee beans into the mash. I put 1 cup of ground dunkin donuts coffee in there. The coffee flavor is definitely there without being overwhelming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also cold brew some coffee and add at secondary or at bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="35" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T02:51:42.407" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T02:51:42.407" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="118" CreationDate="2010-11-10T01:25:16.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what I'm brewing I expect to see bubbelage within a few days or even less. Sometimes its hard to tell if its stuck or slow. For mead my normal technique is to use a heating pad to warm it up to 70 degrees for so if it doesn't get going within a couple of days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T01:25:16.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="281" CreationDate="2010-11-10T01:36:11.597" Score="11" ViewCount="23607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard it said that twist-off bottles should be avoided when reusing bottles for homebrewing.  I've also heard a few people saying they've used plenty of them with no ill effects.  Given that (at least around here) twist-offs are much easier to come by in quantity, I ask:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should twist-offs be avoided?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are their disadvantages?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If one was going to use them, what steps should be taken to minimize their problems?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T00:04:20.913" Title="Reusing twist-off bottles" Tags="|bottles|bottling|caps|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2010-11-10T01:38:19.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't do it!  The twist off bottles are too weak for reuse.  Only use the pop top variety.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T01:38:19.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2010-11-10T01:56:24.607" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of the grooves for the cap to actually twist off, there's nowhere near enough for the lids to clamp onto. The regular lids and capping tools are all geared toward the nice, thick lip of glass on &quot;regular&quot; bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you might &quot;sort of&quot; get a seal on a twist-off, it's a ticking time bomb before it leaks and your beer spoils/oxygenates, or just plain decarbonates, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T01:56:24.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="268" CreationDate="2010-11-10T02:01:10.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We did an Irish oatmeal coffee stout and added 1 pot of good strong coffee right to the primary before pitching yeast. This kind of threw off any specific gravity readings, but we knew the thing was going to be strong enough anyhow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T02:01:10.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2010-11-10T02:38:13.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can afford it, its really nice to buy new glass.  If not, you can get some labels off easier than others.  You might have to experiment to see which ones are the easiest to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T02:38:13.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="262" CreationDate="2010-11-10T02:42:24.433" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I think our all-grain batches taste better. This might be due to the better grains we are using, or the fact that we are better brewers now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T02:42:24.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="118" CreationDate="2010-11-10T02:44:23.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to the other great answers here, I don't think there's much risk in just waiting a few days. I once waited a week (I was out of town) before discovering that I had used some dead yeast. I re-pitched, and when the batch was finished I couldn't tell any difference from previous batches. As long as you keep things sterile it can sit for quite a while with no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T02:44:23.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="327" CreationDate="2010-11-10T02:46:51.567" Score="8" ViewCount="2465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've since learned better, but when I first got my kegging setup, I put root beer on one of the lines. After that keg was empty, I decided to put soda water in instead. Unfortunately, the root beer scent is fairly strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, I've since learned that this is a problem and you shouldn't put root beer in there. But, here I am, having made that mistake. Is there anything I can do, short of replacing everything that touched root beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarification:&#xA;Here's what I've all tried. I ran an entire keg full of oxyclean through the line followed by an entire keg full of baking soda water. On both, I ran the liquid through fairly slowly, letting it sit in the lines for a while before running some more through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, straight soda water still tastes distinctly of root beer, though when that water is flavored with orange, it masks it enough that I can't taste the root beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of this keg of water, if I still taste it, I guess I'm going to replace all of the tubing up to the tower (which I can't figure out how to tear apart, actually), rebuild the keg with new O-rings and, if no one has any better ideas, I might just replace the entire tower too (thus having replaced everything that touched the root beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The take away for those who want root beer on tap, the best bet is to have the flavor syrup in a bottle with a pump (like the ones at the coffee shop) and just put soda water in the keg. That way, you can make your own soda flavors by mix and match and none of your equipment gets that root beer flavor in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:42:35.853" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T19:42:36.170" Title="Is There A Way To Get Root Beer Taste/Smell Out Of Kegging Equipment?" Tags="|techniques|kegging|cleaning|kegs|root-beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="268" CreationDate="2010-11-10T02:55:13.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grounds can get pretty bitter in a long boil. I'd suggest adding either an extract or a good coffee liquor (I recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leopoldbros.com/New_site/Frenchpress-Style_American_Coffee_Liqueur.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Leopold Bros.&lt;/a&gt; if you can get it - no nasty chemicals like Kahlua). This method also lets you be really specific in the amount of flavor you want to add - draw out a cup or two from the secondary and add the extract until the balance is right, then scale the ratio up to the whole batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T02:55:13.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="261" CreationDate="2010-11-10T02:56:23.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that temperature fluctuations produce off flavors much more than the actual temperature level. As long as it's &quot;close&quot; to the temperature recommended for your yeast you should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T02:56:23.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="250" CreationDate="2010-11-10T02:58:59.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing first wort hops allow for more hop bitterness to be extracted. Adding the hops during the first runnings reduces the ph level of the wort and increases isomerization of the alpha acids in later hop additions. Typically you will get around 10% more IBUs than with a standard 60 minute boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to test this start with 25% - 30% of your hop schedule and move it to FWH. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T02:58:59.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="292" CreationDate="2010-11-10T03:06:03.283" Score="4" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like a few more options than the kits found at the local brew shop. Where do I look to find extract recipes that I won't need to convert?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T04:33:13.210" Title="Where can I find extract recipes?" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="290" CreationDate="2010-11-10T03:14:52.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck with non-local homebrew shops.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.austinhomebrew.com/index.php?cPath=178_452&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Austin Homebrew&lt;/a&gt; has maybe a few hundred kit options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T03:14:52.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="290" CreationDate="2010-11-10T03:26:20.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The book &quot;Brewing Classic Styles&quot; covers pretty much the entirety of the BJCP styles with a recipe in every category. Nearly every single recipe is stated first as an extract plus specialty grain recipe first and mini mash and all grain as secondary versions. A couple of them can't really be done as extract versions and those are excluded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's 80 recipes, that have all won national awards and nearly all of them are based on extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381926&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Brewing-Classic-Styles-Winning-Recipes/dp/0937381926&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T03:26:20.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="261" CreationDate="2010-11-10T03:59:19.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's more important during primary since there the yeast is much more active - there's more opportunity to create esters that you don't want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T03:59:19.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2010-11-10T04:13:55.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I design my labels in OOo Writer and print them on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.brewhut.com/whitelabelpaper-18sheetsof85x11.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;label paper&lt;/a&gt;. I can't remember the brand name off the top of my head (I threw away the packaging), but it's great stuff. A lot cheaper than Minilabels and more versatile since you have the whole 8.5x11 to work with (I usually do 9 labels per sheet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T04:13:55.347" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-10T04:20:00.903" Score="4" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;Austin Homebrew Supllies offers an option on all it's kits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1% Alcohol Boost:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Add 1% alcohol to your beer without compromising its flavor. Brewvint Alcohol Boost is 55% maltose/45% glucose, a very fermentable mix with little flavor contribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious about anyone's experiences with this.  Does it really not affect flavor?  Could I (theoretically) add several of these?  Any other drawbacks to them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T05:55:51.203" Title="AHS 1% alcohol boost?" Tags="|kits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="306" CreationDate="2010-11-10T04:26:18.810" Score="7" ViewCount="634" Body="&lt;p&gt;My favorite local brew-pub has a standing offer to share their yeast with homebrewers; bring in a jar &amp;amp; they will fill it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the obvious &quot;it's free,&quot; why is their yeast desirable? How does it differ from yeast I might buy at my local brewery supply store, and where did they get it from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/164/what-effect-do-different-types-of-yeast-have-when-creating-a-recipe&quot;&gt;this question about the effects of yeast on a recipe&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm also interested in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The details of where yeast comes from&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to identify a desirable yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to pair it with a specific recipe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How strains of yeast evolve, or how to create/grow (not sure it this makes sense) a yeast that has the desired properties for your specific recipe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T20:52:44.410" Title="Using yeast from a local brewery" Tags="|yeast|recipe|brewery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="290" CreationDate="2010-11-10T04:33:13.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f82/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;homebrew talk.&lt;/a&gt; Not only will you find recipes, but also ratings, and reviews from other users that have made them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T04:33:13.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="269" CreationDate="2010-11-10T04:35:34.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone interested in brewing sour beers should keep an eye on Michael Tonsmeire's blog: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Mad Fermentationist&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T04:35:34.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="303" CreationDate="2010-11-10T04:35:42.900" Score="8" ViewCount="11164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read stories about people brewing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gizmag.com/worlds-strongest-beers/15256/&quot;&gt;beer with an extremely high alcohol content&lt;/a&gt;, and am curious about how they do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a basic level, I know that alcohol is a byproduct of yeast breaking down sugars, but how can you increase the alcohol content of your brew without ruining the flavor? Virtually all of my recipes turn out around 5%-7% ABV. Is increasing that number just a matter of adding certain kinds of sugar? How does it change the flavor of the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T04:51:21.570" Title="How to adjust alcohol content of a beer?" Tags="|beer|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="38" CreationDate="2010-11-10T04:36:33.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/359730/baltic-porter-recipes/the-gingerbread-man-cometh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Gingerbread Man Cometh&lt;/a&gt; This is my imperial spiced porter. Almost 9% ABV makes it very warming in cold weather. Spiced with ginger, nutmeg and cinnamon. Very good. Ages beautifully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T04:36:33.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="309" CreationDate="2010-11-10T04:40:50.820" Score="5" ViewCount="1529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm probably being too paranoid here, but what's the best way to make sure the priming sugar (I tend to use corn sugar boiled in a few cups of water for 5 minutes and then cooled) is thoroughly mixed into the beer without oxidizing it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid if I agitate it too much I'm going to oxidize it and add off-flavors, but I've had some batches where the bottles are unevenly primed. My current process is to pour the 70-80°F sugar solution into a carboy, then rack the beer from the secondary on top of it. I then stop up the new carboy and rock it for 30 seconds or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-11-01T12:20:03.037" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T18:42:26.657" Title="How can I prime for bottle conditioning without oxidizing the beer?" Tags="|beer|bottling|bottle-conditioning|procedure|priming|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="311" CreationDate="2010-11-10T04:46:23.120" Score="12" ViewCount="13201" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone learns during their first brewing experience that you have to carefully sanitize anything that touches your wort after the boil to avoid infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when wort gets contaminated? How do you identify a contamination, and what can be done about it? Can you discover it before you bottle? Does contamination mean losing the batch, or can you recover from it? If you can recover, how is the flavour of the beer affected? Is contamination a strong possibility if you don't sanitize, or is just paranoid beer-lovers trying to avoid the worst-case scenario: wasting good beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T16:46:31.033" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T16:49:10.623" Title="Consequences of contamination in a beer?" Tags="|beer|sanitation|contamination|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="299" CreationDate="2010-11-10T04:51:21.570" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of those ridiculously high ABV beers have been ice-distilled (some multiple times). Supposedly it's technically illegal for homebrewers since it's distilling, but it's basically just cooling the beer to the point where some of the water freezes and removing the ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get pretty decent ABVs (12%+) without resorting to that though. You'll need a strain of yeast that can handle the high level of alcohol, otherwise it will die off before it converts all the sugars. I've had good results with Scottish Ale and Trappist High Gravity strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the sugars, you don't have to add &quot;sugar,&quot; you could get everything you need from the malt. If you're all-grain, you just use a lot more and maybe only use the &quot;first runnings&quot; or collect twice as much as you need and boil it down to your target size. With extract recipes, you can usually get away with just adding a lot more extract to your boil. You can add it towards the end of the boil if you're concerned about darkening or scorching. That said, you can always throw some sugar in to up the gravity. I prefer the less processed varieties like turbanado or &quot;raw&quot; sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be prepared for a longer-than-normal and very active primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T04:51:21.570" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="301" CreationDate="2010-11-10T04:54:12.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two methods I've used have been:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the sugar solution in the bottling bucket, then rack carefully to that from the fermenter.  The movement of the incoming beer is plenty to mix in the sugar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Siphon or carefully pour the sugar solution on top of the beer, then stir it with a sanitized spoon very slowly for ~5 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T04:54:12.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="295" CreationDate="2010-11-10T05:10:10.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used it a couple of times. The alcohol boost is completely fermentable. Which means that it won't leave any sweetness behind. You could theoretically add several, but adding that much will create a lot of hot alcohols that will take a long time (6 months +) to mellow in the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in a single dose it does not really change the taste of your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T05:10:10.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-11-10T05:18:49.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of beers do they make? A lot of breweries will have a &quot;house strain&quot; that they use for almost all of their beers. If they do a lot of belgian beers then chances are it's a belgian yeast that creates a lot of fruity esters and spicy phenols. If it's German Ale yeast it's going to have banana and clove like qualities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just ask the brewery what style of yeast it is (Belgian, German, English, Saison, American etc....). Ask for attenuation and flocculation values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are dozens of different yeast strains out there all with different properties. That doesn't make one more desirable than another. Just that some are suited better for different beers. Saison yeast is great for saisons because they are high attenuating and leave a dry beer. Nottingham yeast is great for English ales because it's clean and accentuates malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the right knowledge and equipment you can't really make a yeast &quot;evolve&quot; to create the properties you desire. Start by reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://mrmalty.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr. Malty&lt;/a&gt; from start to finish. It should answer most of your questions very thoroughly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T05:18:49.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-11-10T05:53:08.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One benefit of getting a jar of yeast slurry is that you won't need to make a starter; there will be plenty of yeast to directly pitch into a batch. Depending on how much they give you, it might last you a couple of batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, Matt's answer is spot on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T05:53:08.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="295" CreationDate="2010-11-10T05:55:51.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've added this to a couple of the recipes I ordered from AHB before I switched to all-grain. I never noticed any off flavors, but I've stopped using it just because I'm fine with the ABV of the particular styles I'm brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T05:55:51.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="301" CreationDate="2010-11-10T06:00:18.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always boil and cool my priming sugar solution and add half of it to the bottling bucket. I rack about half of the beer into the bucket and then add the rest of the priming solution as the remainder of the beer is flowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards, I use a [sanitized] brew spoon to very gently stir the beer in the bottling bucket. As long as you avoid churning it and don't introduce bubbles, you'll be fine. Yes, there's always a slight risk of infection, but as long as the spoon is properly sanitized you're not risking a whole lot, and I'd much rather make sure the priming sugar is evenly distributed than risk bottle bombs later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T06:00:18.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-10T09:22:57.473" Score="11" ViewCount="2232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for a suitable way of keeping my wine records online, whereby I can simply tap in recipe details as I brew, SG during the ferment etc, and it logs these all as individual with the date so I can check back on the information quickly. at a later date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried Evernote but found I might as well be keeping a word processing document for each brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you keep records online or electronically?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T04:54:35.047" Title="Do you keep your wine/beer making records online?" Tags="|record-keeping|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="302" CreationDate="2010-11-10T11:07:02.073" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can immediately think of three indicators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Off flavours or strange aromas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beer that ferments vigorously for longer than expected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moulds or other growth on the wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 and 3 can sometimes be normal, depending on conditions (temperature etc.) and the gravity and fermentability of your wort.  Occasionally yeast might cause odd-looking growth on the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for off flavours, the most obvious is probably a vinegar-like taste.  The beer may also taste of wet cardboard, rotten milk, etc. There are a vast range of off flavours caused by contamination.  Read John Palmer's &amp;quot;How To Brew&amp;quot; for a comprehensive scary list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've had film moulds on the beer that don't affect flavour at all, but don't look too nice in the fermenter.  Some wild yeast will cause symptom 2 and ferment all the sugars they can, so you end up with a very dry beer with no body, but without really bad flavour problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO you'll definitely get contamination sooner or later if you don't sanitise properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T16:47:28.747" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T16:47:28.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="310" CreationDate="2010-11-10T11:30:53.080" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://docs.google.com/demo/edit?id=scABnO9YPL4iWCSndJ20gehID&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;dt=document#document&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google Docs&lt;/a&gt;, their spreadsheet has enough functionality to do most calculations you could want. Should you need something more advanced, they allow you to build your own functions using javascript.  The spreadsheets can be mutli-worksheet and you can export [if needed] in many common document formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google also offers their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/apps/intl/en/group/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Standard edition for domains/businesses&lt;/a&gt; for free.  Sharing docs works great, even with users outside your [or gmail's] domain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are free, public templates available such as this &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/previewtemplate?id=0Ap_Pif24b_9VdGIxa1d3VDZYeTlPd21CVDNQREgtSVE&amp;amp;mode=public&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Home Brew Log&lt;/a&gt; available on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/templates?type=forms&amp;amp;start=21&amp;amp;sort=rating&amp;amp;view=public&amp;amp;pli=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google Docs Template site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="7" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T12:55:27.673" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T12:55:27.673" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="310" CreationDate="2010-11-10T12:40:23.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently use Dropbox to store my recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T12:40:23.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="315" CreationDate="2010-11-10T12:47:01.377" Score="5" ViewCount="3732" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to ferment chilli-peppers and produce a liquor with a alcohol content and also a hotness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T18:51:11.380" Title="Chilli Alcohol Recipe" Tags="|recipe|ingredients|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="314" CreationDate="2010-11-10T12:54:35.360" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't quite what you're asking. I don't think chili peppers have enough sugars in them to produce a strong enough fermentation on their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a chili-pepper beer, which was absolutely fantastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a simple, low-bitterness beer. After fermentation was complete, I racked into a secondary and added 4 types of dried, frozen chilies. I sampled the beer every day until I thought it was hot enough and then bottled it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer wasn't too hot (though it could have gotten hotter if I'd left it on the chilies longer), but had a fantastic spice at the back of the throat. It was delicious, and went great with summer barbecue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T12:54:35.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="314" CreationDate="2010-11-10T13:29:34.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe chili peppers would qualify as an adjunct.  I would treat it like any fruit/vegetable/spice beer and add it late in the boil.  Start small and increase to hit your target flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T13:29:34.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="319" CreationDate="2010-11-10T13:48:17.547" Score="7" ViewCount="1192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently keep track of each brew in a little notebook and I have sort of a template I created myself for the brew date, date moved to secondary, bottle date, gravities, ingredients, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any resources available for printing out premade record sheets?  I could hole punch them and put them in a binder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T16:44:41.320" Title="Resources for Record Keeping?" Tags="|record-keeping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="302" CreationDate="2010-11-10T13:55:47.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a batch of dunkelweizen that became contaminated, I think from siphoning with my mouth.  The off flavour is obvious, it tastes sour.  At first I thought it was completely ruined, but I held onto the batch to wait it out.  Over time the flavours softened and it is actually pretty tasty now.  Sort of like a dark berliner weisse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanitization is &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; important, but just because you slipped up doesn't mean your batch &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; to be ruined.  Hold onto it and try it every once and a while.  You might be pleasantly surprised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T16:49:10.623" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T16:49:10.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="317" CreationDate="2010-11-10T13:56:06.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brewkaiser has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Keeping_Log&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pretty detailed brew log&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T13:56:06.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="330" CreationDate="2010-11-10T14:04:25.010" Score="5" ViewCount="2001" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I need to use heavier paper (ie, 30 lb) for labels?  Would regular printer paper work just as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T16:07:32.273" Title="What kind of paper should I use for bottle labels?" Tags="|bottles|bottling|labels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="332" CreationDate="2010-11-10T14:07:05.910" Score="11" ViewCount="1261" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instance, will hard water really change the taste that much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T21:55:08.767" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T15:29:59.103" Title="What effects will the type of water have on beer?" Tags="|beer|water|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="220" CreationDate="2010-11-10T14:27:16.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never tried it without the Blichman Beer Gun, but after using the gun, it seems that would need to use something like that. I split the cost with a friend, since you only need it sporadically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bummer to spend money on something that doesn't actually make beer, but it's been a great investment. I buy seasonal commercial kegs and transfer the entire keg to bottles so I can have the beer I like and not take up a spot in the keg fridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T14:27:16.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2010-11-10T14:30:26.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my cappers would fail to seal maybe 1 time out of 50 (with twist-offs).  My other capper has never failed.  Most of my bottles are non-twist-off, but some of them are twist-offs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got access to &lt;strong&gt;Sleeman's&lt;/strong&gt; bottles (from Canada), I'd suggest trying them.  They're pretty, clear, twist-off, they cap really well, and they come in a fully-enclosing box so your clear bottles are protected from light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems this whole twist-off vs. non-twist-off thing is a YMMV thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T14:30:26.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="338" CreationDate="2010-11-10T14:34:34.190" Score="17" ViewCount="18503" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I go to get a pint from the keg, the first pint is always foamy. I have to fill the glass up about 1/3 of the way and dump it out, just to the  pour actual beer. I usually carbonate by setting the keg to ~12 psi and letting it sit until its ready. 2nd beer, 3rd beer, etc. don't seem &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that keeping the fridge very cold (~40 degrees) will mitigate this, but I don't always want my beer that cold. Any other options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:43:17.337" LastActivityDate="2017-10-04T09:20:38.823" Title="How can I avoid a lot of foam in the first pint from the keg?" Tags="|beer|techniques|carbonation|kegging|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="370" CreationDate="2010-11-10T15:02:55.467" Score="12" ViewCount="43035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a cider made from fresh pressed cider that's been in the fermenter about a month. It was augmented with some Crystal 60L and a few other ingredients and is sitting on French oak cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I believe the flavor is coming along nicely, but it's not clarifying in the least. I forgot to add pectin enzymes at the beginning when I usually do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether or not it makes sense to add it at this point or if I should just live with the super-cloudy nature of the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T14:08:34.240" Title="Adding Pectin Enzyme To Cider After Fermentation Is Complete?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2010-11-10T15:11:01.800" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have almost exclusively used twist off bottles. I have never had any issues with any of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are generally well carbonated (I blame myself for any issues there), and I haven't noticed any major off flavours from my bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The capper that I use was one that came in a kit from a local brewshop and I don't think it's anything special.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is try with the twist offs and if you don't experience any issues, keep using them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T15:11:01.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="286" CreationDate="2010-11-10T15:34:33.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried soaking the tubes etc. in bleach/beer line cleaner?  You should be careful about soaking metals, but plastic should be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However -- I'd be surprised if the aroma would transfer to beer given the time the liquid stays in the pipe.  If the worst case scenario is to have some slightly gingery ale, you may as well just use those lines again.  The ginger smell will fade over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand if it's just plastic pipes that are the problem, you might want to replace them -- plastic tube is fairly cheap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T15:34:33.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="268" CreationDate="2010-11-10T15:59:43.090" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would make a pot of really strong coffee in a french press or whatever (or espresso if you've got a machine).  Ideally, add it to the secondary, because the primary fermentation will blow off a lot of the nice aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this in a stout before and used about 4 tablespoons of coffee in 1 pint cafetiere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T15:59:43.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="320" CreationDate="2010-11-10T16:06:23.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How are you sticking the labels to the bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used regular cheap printer paper, applied using some milk (skimmed is fine).  Simply paint the back of the label with milk, apply to bottle, allow to dry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not smell (honestly!) and washes off easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T16:06:23.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="320" CreationDate="2010-11-10T16:07:32.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend getting label paper with the adhesive already on the back, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.brewhut.com/whitelabelpaper-18sheetsof85x11.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this stuff&lt;/a&gt;. Otherwise it's going to depend on your glue, though based on the thickness of the label paper you'll probably want at least 28 lb. If you'll be printing on an inkjet, I'd also recommend getting some of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000WWFPYM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to waterproof them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T16:07:32.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="317" CreationDate="2010-11-10T16:08:37.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basics of Home Brewing has a simple pdf log here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicsofhomebrewing.com/downloadables/HomeBrewLog.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.basicsofhomebrewing.com/downloadables/HomeBrewLog.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a brewing log software available for free download:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.softforall.com/HomeEducation/FoodBeverage/Home_Brew_Log05030049.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.softforall.com/HomeEducation/FoodBeverage/Home_Brew_Log05030049.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T16:08:37.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="321" CreationDate="2010-11-10T16:08:58.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer is more complicated; sufficiently hard water will cause all sorts of hilarity during the brewing process. Remember, this is dealing with organic chemistry and living things doing our bidding, therefore difficult (for me) to fully understand. There's a great resource available from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/03/14/all-grain-water-chemistry-brewing-information/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Brewer's Friend&lt;/a&gt; that I'd strongly advise reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T16:08:58.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="310" CreationDate="2010-11-10T16:13:02.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewblogger.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BrewBlogger&lt;/a&gt;. Not only can you store your recipes, but you can make a &quot;brewblog&quot; each time you brew to track tweaks and changes to that batch. It also will calculate ABV, IBU, and SRM for you based on your ingredients. You have to have your own hosting somewhere, but it works great and it's free. The two clubs I'm in have brewblogs &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewing.trandem.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://minorplanet.org/brew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T16:13:02.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="321" CreationDate="2010-11-10T16:26:05.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely yes. There is a reason why breweries tend to be located at specific places, and there are examples of breweries that relocated changing the taste of their beers as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T16:26:05.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="317" CreationDate="2010-11-10T16:44:41.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Randy Mosher has one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.radicalbrewing.com/rbdown.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T16:44:41.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="339" CreationDate="2010-11-10T16:56:47.940" Score="14" ViewCount="1828" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the minimum amount of equipment I need to have to brew very simple all-grain recipes? Bonus points for cheap &amp;amp; easy-to-find equipment. I'd like to go all-grain eventually, but for the time being I'd just like to dabble. I'd like to be able to do 1- or 2- gallon all-grain batches with an infusion mash. If the equipment would also let me eventually step up to doing a full 5-gallon batch, so much the better. If doing such small batches all-grain is a bad idea, please let me know that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current major equipment list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 gallon stainless pot (no taps, no built-in thermometer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 gallon aluminum pot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bayou Classic propane burner (though I prefer to use the small pot on my stove for 1 or 2 gallon batches)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:52:34.917" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:52:34.917" Title="What is the minimum amount of equipment to dabble in All-Grain?" Tags="|beer|equipment|all-grain|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="357" CreationDate="2010-11-10T17:01:04.753" Score="7" ViewCount="1156" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/73/how-should-bulk-grain-be-stored&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt;, but I'd like to get a 50 lb. bag of pilsner DME from the LHBS to use over the course of 3-6 months. Can it be stored like grain, or are there additional considerations that need to be taken into account?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T12:16:40.963" Title="How should bulk DME be stored?" Tags="|beer|extract|storage|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="324" CreationDate="2010-11-10T17:04:33.160" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long and what is the diameter of the tubing from the keg to the tap? If the tube's resistance is not what it should be, it could be causing the foam issues. There's a good explanation and formula &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iancrockett.com/brewing/info/kegbalance.shtml&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T17:04:33.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="336" CreationDate="2010-11-10T17:06:18.417" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could do all grain with what you currently have by purchasing a large grain bag. It's called &quot;Brew in a bag&quot;, and the beersmith blog has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2009/04/14/brew-in-a-bag-biab-all-grain-beer-brewing/&quot;&gt;write up&lt;/a&gt; if you want to check it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do my single infusion mash in a large chest cooler that I converted similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thegatesofdawn.ca/wordpress/homebrewing/mashtun/&quot;&gt;this writeup&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: My cooler cost around 30 bucks, plus another 10 for random equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 7 gallon pot is just barely large enough for a full batch. You'll be fine for now, doing small batches, but I would eventually step up to a larger brew pot. I have a 7 gallon pot just to heat water, and a 10 gallon pot for the boil as a full all-grain boil starts around 7 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T17:13:07.457" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T17:13:07.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="336" CreationDate="2010-11-10T17:09:44.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could go with what you have, plus a mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine is a platic bucket with a false bottom and a spigot, made by my LHBS, and cost me under $40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T17:09:44.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="342" CreationDate="2010-11-10T17:38:32.403" Score="8" ViewCount="10455" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've made a few batches of beer and our recent batches have not ended up as carbonated as previous. I think the beer has been stored in a cooler place but I'm wondering if that is the only reason. Even after dropping in carbonation drops it still won't carbonate much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If temperature is the reason, how do you go about fixing this on a batch that has already been bottled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:37:41.743" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:37:41.743" Title="Why is our beer not carbonating?" Tags="|beer|carbonation|cider|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="341" CreationDate="2010-11-10T17:50:53.917" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature can often be the reason. I had a Christmas beer that didn't carbonate because my basement was too cold. I simply took the bottles to a warmer place and they carbonated in the normal time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some reasons a beer won't carbonate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature&lt;/strong&gt;: If the beer is too cold it can put the yeast into hibernation. Warming up the bottle might be all you need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tired/stressed yeast&lt;/strong&gt;: if your yeast was old or you didn't have enough yeast, or the beer is a stronger beer, there might not be enough healthy yeast left to carbonate the beer. You can add more yeast at bottling time (&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/148/when-bottle-conditioning-when-should-i-re-yeast-and-how-much-yeast-should-i-add&quot;&gt;Related Question&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Improper bottle seal&lt;/strong&gt;: check to be sure the bottles are correctly sealed. If there's any gap at all, the C02 will escape as it's being created&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forgetting the carbonating sugar&lt;/strong&gt;: You've already thought of this, but I added it for completelness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T17:50:53.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="337" CreationDate="2010-11-10T17:52:39.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the main thing you're concerned with is moisture, just as with grain, so storing in airtight containers is your best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T17:52:39.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="341" CreationDate="2010-11-10T17:53:26.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature could be your problem, every style of yeast needs a different temp to ferment.  Another problem could be your clarification techniques were too good.  It's possible that you filtered out all of the living yeast before bottling, or somehow killed them with big temperature fluctuations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I had this issue was the first time I force carbonated a beer and kegged it.  But you could also pour all of your beer back into your bottling bucket, repitch new yeast then rebottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd caution against adding more sugar though, you don't want to over carbonate or have explosions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T17:53:26.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="348" CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:00:09.307" Score="9" ViewCount="13582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a great cider last year and would like to do the same this year.  Problem is that I'm too lazy to get all the way out to an apple orchard that sells non pasteurized cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use organic pasteurized cider and expect almost the same results as not pasteurized?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2021-01-23T13:55:57.033" Title="Hard cider with pasteurized regular cider" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="347" CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:01:05.763" Score="8" ViewCount="2168" Body="&lt;p&gt;With clear, green, and brown bottles abound (e.g., Corona, Heineken, and Yeungling respectively), is there a hard and fast rule for what color of bottle to use for a given beer style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are brown bottles a good all-around solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="146" LastEditorUserId="121" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T21:21:17.197" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T10:16:35.897" Title="Does bottle color matter for a given beer style?" Tags="|beer|bottles|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="346" CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:03:10.893" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brown bottles are you best bet, they block the most amount of skunkyness causing UV.  There is no benefit to using a clear or green bottle other than you might already have them hanging around, and people might &lt;strong&gt;feel&lt;/strong&gt; like they're drinking a certain style beer if you serve it in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T18:03:10.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="345" CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:05:43.147" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't ever been able to tell the difference between a pasteurized or non as a juice base in the final product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also made quite a few batches using store-bought, filtered, pasteurized juice (i.e. the big jugs of &quot;no preservatives&quot; stuff on the bottom of the shelf in the grocery store). THAT stuff still can make a good final beverage, but it turns out quite a bit different than the fresh-pressed stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, the store juice tends to be much more tart. That can either be exactly what you are looking for or something to compensate for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T18:05:43.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="350" CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:10:48.850" Score="6" ViewCount="3733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have concerns over why our beers are not carbonating properly. One &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/341/why-is-our-beer-not-carbonating/344&quot;&gt;suggestion&lt;/a&gt; was to check and make sure the bottles are sealed properly. What might be a good way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T04:49:09.947" Title="How can I make sure my bottle cap is sealed tightly?" Tags="|beer|bottling|carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="349" CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:13:16.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick check would be to stretch a rubber balloon over the neck of your bottle after capping. If the cap is not sealed the balloon will slowly inflate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T18:13:16.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="349" CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:19:42.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using a butterfly capper, check to make sure you're pressing hard enough. There should be a slight ring-shaped indentation in the cap after capping a bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy way to check once they're capped is to simply store a few upside down. If there's a leak, the gas will bring some beer with it as it leaks out the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T18:19:42.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="346" CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:23:37.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people use green Grolsch-style swing-top bottles, not because of the color but because the swing tops are great for bottling (no need to cap). The green ones are often cheaper/easier to find than brown swing-tops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only use brown bottles; I'd rather not risk skunking my beer for minute convenience of finding green bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T18:23:37.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="345" CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:27:01.717" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly use pasteurized juice/cider. The things to watch out for are additives and/or preservatives. Don't use any juice that contains preservatives as they'll inhibit fermentation. Juice that contains ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is fine, but stay away from other additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used Tree Top 100% apple juice, as well as a couple of store brands, and they've worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T18:27:01.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="383" CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:43:50.730" Score="5" ViewCount="991" Body="&lt;p&gt;What equipment do I need to start making wine at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:52:47.227" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:52:47.227" Title="What equipment do I need to starting making wine?" Tags="|equipment|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="358" CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:44:55.423" Score="8" ViewCount="6226" Body="&lt;p&gt;What equipment do I need to start making mead at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:52:59.503" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T00:40:12.983" Title="What equipment do I need to start making mead?" Tags="|equipment|mead|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="325" CreationDate="2010-11-10T19:12:49.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, you should be able to add gelatin to the final product and let it sit for a few days before racking off &amp;amp; bottling. I've never tried it with cider, but I suspect it would work perfectly fine. Plain Knox gelatin, dissolved, heated and cooled is fine (or at least it's what I've done with beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do try this, please let me know how it came out for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T19:12:49.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="337" CreationDate="2010-11-10T19:17:52.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd hazard a guess that in addition to moisture, you might be also be concerned with oxidation. I've seen longer term storage of grains in 5 gallon pails with a nice tight seal work well; apparently a long-term storage trick is to put dry-ice in the bottom of the pail before filling, thus displacing all the oxygen in the bucket. This would also have the side-affect of removing all the moisture as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T19:17:52.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2010-11-10T19:55:08.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a fermenting chamber and a way to seal that chamber off from outside invaders and sanitizing liquid. That's it as a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A glass jug or carboy is probably the most common fermentation chamber, whether the 1 gallon variety or the bigger 5-6 gallon variety. Glass is used by lots of people because it scratches a little less than plastic and scratches hold bacteria (which is what you're fighting against). That said, I use plastic BetterBottles(TM) for most of my fermenters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To seal it off, most people use an airlock, which lets CO2 out, but doesn't let air or bacteria in. However, a sanitized piece of aluminum foil, pressed over the opening of the carboy can do the job too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of people will also use a brew kettle and boil (or just pasteurize their ingredients). That's used to boil water, which means your liquid will go into the fermenter in a sterile state. That hot water is also easier to dissolve your honey into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, making mead is pretty easy on equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T19:55:08.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="346" CreationDate="2010-11-10T20:06:01.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think people should be so afraid of accidental skunking.  If you pretty much keep your bottled beer in boxes until it goes into the fridge, then you're going to be fine.  The occational light blast from your refridgerator light is not going to skunk your beer!  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you store your bottled beer not in boxes, or on the window-sill or something, then, yeah... brown bottles are a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T20:06:01.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="341" CreationDate="2010-11-10T20:29:27.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that you don't have enough head room in your bottles.  For a normal 12-oz bottle, you probably want about 3/4&quot; of head space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T20:29:27.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="363" CreationDate="2010-11-10T20:38:18.593" Score="3" ViewCount="2000" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Why is our beer not carbonating?&quot; question mentions &quot;sugar tablets&quot;.  I am aware of a product called &quot;prime tabs&quot;, but as far as I can tell that product is not longer being produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used Cooper's Carbonation Drops.  They're pretty good, but I would rather find something with greater granularity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any such thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T21:52:03.273" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T18:00:03.623" Title="Per-bottle priming tablets?" Tags="|beer|carbonation|priming|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-10T20:40:30.787" Score="5" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those of us who are still brewing from kits and recipes and want to branch out and try building our own flavors, what resources are there that describe the various flavors contributed by particular specialty malts and strains of hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, how would the flavor profile of an Irish Red change if I replaced the Kent Golding Hops with, say, Saaz or Cascade hops?  Or if I were to replace some of the Cara Munich malt with a Crystal malt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T16:41:30.637" Title="What is a good resource for flavor contributions of different ingredients?" Tags="|beer|hops|malt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2010-11-10T20:41:15.843" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Muntons makes a product called &quot;Carb Tabs&quot;.  I am pretty sure they are what you are talking about.  For your sake, &lt;em&gt;DO NOT&lt;/em&gt; use them.  From my experience, they do not dissolve all of the way and you are stuck with 2-3 little white chunks in your beer.  This particular brew still had chunks in it 8 months after bottling.  When this happened I did some research on the topic and it appears that many people experienced the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T20:41:15.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="362" CreationDate="2010-11-10T20:59:47.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always thought this was a helpful chart for hops, don't know the original source though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tkfmg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tkfmg.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T09:31:32.270" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T09:31:32.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="362" CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:01:52.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty good chart for malts: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Malts_Chart&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Malts_Chart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T21:01:52.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:14:18.903" Score="16" ViewCount="1809" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some good online sources for recipes? Please specify the type of recipes the site has (extract, all-grain, mead, cider, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastEditorUserId="121" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T17:17:26.373" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T08:30:23.310" Title="What are some good online sources for recipes?" Tags="|beer|cider|recipe|mead|wine|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-10T21:14:18.903" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="379" CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:31:42.467" Score="23" ViewCount="21899" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the difference has to do with how the grains grow on the stock, but I'm not completely sure what that difference is. It also seems like 2-row is more commonly used as a base malt, but I've seen some recipes that say it's ok to substitute 6-row instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biologically, what's the difference between the two? In terms of brewing, what's the difference between using 2-row malt as opposed to 6-row malt as the base for a beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-07-01T13:32:04.180" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T13:32:04.180" Title="What's the difference between 2-row and 6-row malt?" Tags="|beer|grain|base-malt|2-row|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="302" CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:40:14.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest contamination risk in brewing is acetobacter, for the simple reason that acetobacter is everywhere and on everything.  It's in your kitchen, on your hands, and frequently on the surface of fruit fresh from the orchard.  It's airborne and settles on every available surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this a problem?  Two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acetobacter produces acetic acid, also known as vinegar.  Got a vinegary tang in your brew?  Chances are it's from some sort of acetobacter infection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acetobacter metabolizes alcohol to produce acetic acid.  This is different from yeast and most other bacteria - alcohol inhibits yeast growth, but it &lt;strong&gt;fuels&lt;/strong&gt; acetobacter growth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you turn perfectly good brew into vinegar?  Just leave the brew in an open container (cover with gauze to keep bugs out) in a warm room.  Within a few days, it will start to smell vinegary, and within two weeks you will have a vat of vinegar. (ps Never taste-test homebrew vinegar - high acid content can cause serious chemical burns to your mouth!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanitation is also important to reduce the risk of pathogens taking up residence in your brew and causing extreme illness or death in anyone who drinks your product.  Truly toxic bacteria such as Clostridium botulinum (botulism) may be killed by boiling for extended periods, but their spores may survive boiling and begin reproduction sometime later.  Sanitation with chemicals and/or high heat (above 250F) is the only way to destroy the bacteria and their spores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T16:48:26.787" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T16:48:26.787" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="378" CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:40:52.173" Score="6" ViewCount="4786" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have an all-grain recipe, and I want to convert it to an extract or partial-mash recipe, the easiest way is to replace the base malt with malt extract. Conversely, converting an extract recipe to all-grain involves using a base malt in place of the extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific grain-to-extract ratio when doing such conversions? If it depends on the specific type of base malt, is there a table somewhere that shows the amount of potential fermentables that are available for different malts? Something that allows me to determine &quot;X pounds of base malt == Y pounds of malt extract&quot;, and vice-versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T12:47:59.437" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T12:47:59.437" Title="How do I convert between all-grain and extract recipes?" Tags="|beer|extract|grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="325" CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:43:58.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can add pectic enzymes after the ferment.  The enzymes contribute little to the fermentation, it's only added to encourage suspended solids to clump together and precipitate out of solution.  You can do that after fermentation with no ill side effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastEditorUserId="101" LastEditDate="2010-12-04T05:28:08.117" LastActivityDate="2010-12-04T05:28:08.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="345" CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:47:56.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can brew cider using pasturized juice.  Some would argue that pasturization destroys certain enzymes and aromatics in the juice that contribute to the flavor of the cider.  I haven't brewed with pasturized juice, but I can certainly taste a difference between pasturized juice and raw fresh-pressed juice, and I would expect those flavor differences will be passed on to the brew as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T21:47:56.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="376" CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:52:00.147" Score="9" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it to grow my own hops or should I just buy them somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="123" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T00:07:50.153" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T00:07:50.153" Title="Hops: Buy vs. Grow" Tags="|beer|hops|ingredients|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:54:33.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recycled twist-off bottles from storebought beverages when I first got started home brewing, but I don't use them any more.  The storebought bottles are surprisingly fragile and don't survive heat cycling very well at all.  I'd lose 10% of the twist-off bottles on every trip through the dishwasher - cracks would appear at the base of the bottle neck.  I've never had that kind of trouble with the thicker pop-cap bottles made for homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T21:54:33.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:58:53.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some good resources for making mead at home:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makemead.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.makemead.net/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gotmead.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gotmead.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T21:58:53.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="354" CreationDate="2010-11-10T22:03:07.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some good resources for making wine at home:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mountainhomebrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mountainhomebrew.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wineworldfdw.com/wine_making.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wineworldfdw.com/wine_making.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T22:03:07.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="372" CreationDate="2010-11-10T22:03:15.890" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Growing and using your own hops &lt;em&gt;exclusively&lt;/em&gt; presents two definite setbacks in brewing: variety and proportions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you grow your own, you're generally limited to a single variety of hops which limits the hop flavors in the beers you make. Some hops contain a lot of alpha acids are are great as bittering hops (e.g. magnum), while others impart things such as citrus notes, spiciness, and great floral aromas. Buying hops gives you the ability to perfect your hop schedule by choosing additions that add different things to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Growing your own hops also means you'll be adding whole hops cones or whole leave to your beer rather than pelletized hops. This isn't necessarily a bad thing; whole-leaf hops are great for dry-hopping, but pelletized hops are much easier to measure and give you greater control of your beer's bitterness and the other flavor/aroma notes mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you've got the space and are considering growing some hops, then by all means, do it! You can always brew a nice IPA with them, and if you end up using more than you intended to, just let the beer mellow a bit over time. &lt;strong&gt;There's nothing preventing you from growing some hops &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; buying hops for other beers as well.&lt;/strong&gt; If I had the space, I'd certainly grow some myself, but I'd still buy pellets from my LHBS for many of my beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T22:03:15.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="366" CreationDate="2010-11-10T22:04:27.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try these for beer recipes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerrecipes.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrew Beer Recipes &amp;amp; Great Clone Beer Recipes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hbd.org/recipator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Brewery Home Spreadsheet Recipes Discussion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tasty Brew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T08:30:23.310" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T08:30:23.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="369" CreationDate="2010-11-10T22:25:18.213" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Multiply your base malt weight by .75 do get the same (ish) amount in  liquid extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example - 10lbs. Pilsner malt = 7.5lbs Pilsner Liquid Malt Extract&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a Dry Malt Extract multiply by .6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example - 10lbs malt = 6lbs. Dry Malt Extract&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steep specialty grains as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T22:25:18.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="367" CreationDate="2010-11-10T22:29:17.727" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taste wise you're going to get a slightly more grainy flavor out of 6 row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biologically 6 row has more diastic power and is better used for converting starchy adjuncts. You also will get about 2ppg more out of 6 row than you will 2 row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But quite frankly, today's 2 row is well modified and has enough diastic power to convert a large amount of starchy adjuncts. 2 row malt has enough enzymes to convert around 10% of it's own weight in adjuncts with no enzymes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example. 10lbs of 2 row can convert 1 lb. of adjuncts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T22:29:17.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="367" CreationDate="2010-11-10T22:32:10.367" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;2-row:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Favored by European brewers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower protein content&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yields greater theoretical extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tend to be more uniform in kernel size (better for less-sophisticated mills)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6-row:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grows better in the U.S. and is cheaper, so used by big domestic breweries&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More enzymes and husks help with adjunct cereals (so good for e.g. an oatmeal stout)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher protein content&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Often sorted into different kernel sizes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info at:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingtechniques.com/bmg/schwarz.html&quot;&gt;http://www.brewingtechniques.com/bmg/schwarz.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T22:32:10.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-10T22:32:27.867" Score="10" ViewCount="2146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering making permanent labels for my bottles.  I've had a friend create a label design with a blank banner in the center.  My idea is to have the design printed on vinyl stickers and then use a Sharpie or some other marker to label the specific beer that's bottled.  In theory I should be able to clean the ink off with denatured alcohol (or similar) when I go to bottle a new batch.  Has anyone else tried something like this, or perhaps a different method?  Any recommendations on permanent/reusable bottle labels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T09:28:29.807" Title="Permanent Bottle Labels" Tags="|bottling|labels|permanent|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="372" CreationDate="2010-11-10T22:55:16.690" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is satisfaction, and frustration, in growing hops.  I personally have 6 hop varieties growing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;variable yields.  Your local weather will have a huge effect on what variety you can grow, and what yield you get.  Some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freshops.com/hop-growing/hop-gardening&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sources&lt;/a&gt; list between 1/2 to 2 pounds of &lt;em&gt;dried&lt;/em&gt; hops per vine.  I've never been able to get anywhere near that, even though my vines grow to 20 feet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeatability.  You'll only have a rough idea of the alpha acid content of your home grown hops; and this can vary year to year.  If you have a favorite recipe it will be hard to duplicate the bittering from batch to batch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upsides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet hopping.  It's becoming more popular to make 'wet hop' ales, ie, beers that are using fresh picked, non-dried hops for their late additions and dry hopping.  If you grow your own you'll have a ready supply of hops during harvest season.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Satisfaction-  the fuzzy warm feelings of goodness you get out of growing your own and making something with it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unknown:&#xA;Economics.  Is it cheaper to grow your own?  That depends.  How much watering will you have to do? How much does water cost you? How much is your time worth?  They don't require meticulous care, just watering and occasional checking for pests, and some early pruning work at the beginning of the season.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T22:55:16.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="354" CreationDate="2010-11-10T22:56:18.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very little equipment is required for making wine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Primary Fermenter (plastic pail)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Secondary Fermenter (glass/plastic carboy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Airlock for carboy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Syphon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bottle brush&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carboy brush&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hydrometer with jar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spoon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cleaner &amp;amp; Sanitizer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are ready to bottle then you'll need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bottles (approx 30)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Corks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Floor Corker (I rent one from the local shop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend purchasing a starter kit from your local homebrew/wine shop. They're normally really great and good prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T22:56:18.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2010-11-10T23:12:07.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try racking it in to a clean fermenter and re-pitching. I've done this with barleywine, saving some of the starter to use in the secondary, and it works pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T23:12:07.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2010-11-10T23:22:32.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'd want to use stickers, as moisture would likely ruin the adhesive.  Perhaps some vinyl cling material (think decorative window clings) would work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is to use (if you can find them) an opaque, light-colored bottle that you could write directly on.  Frosted glass can be written on with a pencil just like paper, though I don't think it'd show up well on a brown bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T23:22:32.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="321" CreationDate="2010-11-10T23:23:25.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, definitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good resource on water chemistry is sections 15.0 to 15.4 of Palmer's How to Brew:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High bicarbonate (CO3) water has a higher alkalinity. Using water high in bicarbonates to make a pale beer such as Pilsner will yield a 'harsh' bitterness.  This type of water tends to favor dark beers made with roasted grains - the roasted grains are acidic, and balance the alkalinity (think Dublin water for Guinness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High sulfates (SO4) (such as in Burton on Trent) tend to accentuate hop flavor and perceived dryness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sodium (Na) adds 'roundness' and accentuates malt flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More reading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BJCP: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/study.php#water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bjcp.org/study.php#water&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;DOZE club page on water: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.clubdoze.com/talks/waterchem.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.clubdoze.com/talks/waterchem.html&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastEditorUserId="123" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T02:04:58.243" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T02:04:58.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="337" CreationDate="2010-11-10T23:26:59.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might put silica gel and/or oxygen absorber packets in there to help as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T23:26:59.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="394" CreationDate="2010-11-10T23:35:26.180" Score="38" ViewCount="63903" Body="&lt;p&gt;After brewing a batch of beer, I always end up with ~14 lbs of spent grain that I usually just toss in a pile in the corner of the yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there better things to do with it (i.e. cooking, baking, etc.), or better ways to get rid of it? Even though I'm using it to make delicious beer, I feel like all that grain is somehow going to waste afterward and that it could be used for something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="123" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T00:10:18.980" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T17:29:42.940" Title="What can I do with my spent grain after mashing?" Tags="|beer|mash|all-grain|grain|spent-grain|" AnswerCount="17" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-06T13:50:02.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="372" CreationDate="2010-11-10T23:59:51.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you enjoy gardening and have a good climate for hops, it is definitely worth it. There is something extra special about having a homebrew made with homehops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you will probably not have enough to supply yourself throughout the year, unless you have a much bigger yard than I do. My general habit is to make a wet hop beer once a year around harvest time (late August/early September for me) using the fresh hops right off the vine for late/finishing hops. I'll use store bought for bittering. If I have enough, I'll dry and use remaining hops for later batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T23:59:51.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2010-11-11T00:03:47.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once saw someone use blackboard paint on their bottle so that they could use chalk on their bottle. Pretty clever!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T00:03:47.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="249" CreationDate="2010-11-11T00:18:31.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the reason for doing so is enzymatic conversion, then no.  Malt extract, wheat or otherwise, has already been mashed, and thus already had it's starches converted to sugars, and will ferment just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for doing this in an all-grain batch is because wheat doesn't have enough enzymes in it to self-convert its starches into sugars during the mash.  6-row has a high enzymatic content, and thus will have 'extra' to convert the wheat starches.  This is one reason why you'll see a base barley malt, either 2-row or 6-row, in any wheat beer all-grain recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caramel and chocolate wheat are there for flavor additions and don't really need to be converted.  The caramel has already been effectively 'mashed' during the process to make that type of malt, so there aren't any starches to convert.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastEditorUserId="123" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T00:28:39.667" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T00:28:39.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2010-11-11T00:30:24.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any nearby hobby farms with cows?  I understand it makes a fine food for cows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deers and/or bears (not sure yet exactly which) that pass through my yard seem to enjoy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T00:30:24.020" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-06T13:50:02.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2010-11-11T00:31:09.247" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spent grain is great for composting. You probably do not have enough to warrant making some kind of arrangement with a farm to use the spent grain as feed, but that is what many commercial breweries do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T00:31:09.247" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-06T13:50:02.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2010-11-11T00:39:01.170" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I compost it most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used it to make bread, and pizza crust.  Typically i just grab maybe 2 cups of it while it's still wet and fresh from the mash, then add the typical ingredients of a wheat bread recipe (milk, butter, etc).  I then add enough flour to make the dough ball 'look like dough', then proceed as normal.  I'm pretty look and feel with my bread, vs. strictly recipe focused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For extra effort, you can dry it and mill it in a coffee grinder, and it'll be much more versatile in recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be used for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.omnomicon.com/spent-grain-cookies&quot;&gt;cookies!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realbeer.com/discussions/showthread.php?threadid=11229&quot;&gt;dog treats&lt;/a&gt;, just make sure there aren't hops in there; hops are toxic to some dogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T00:39:01.170" CommentCount="10" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-06T13:50:02.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="369" CreationDate="2010-11-11T02:35:27.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Matt's formula is what I've seen in several places. However, I'd add to that, that you should check the malt chart here (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Malts_Chart) as well. In particular, note the &quot;Mash Req.&quot; column, which indicates that a particular grain has to be mashed. If you're doing extract brewing, any ingredient that requires mashing will have to be replaced with extract. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, that's just the base malt, but in some recipes, it can be more. Some of those &quot;malt required&quot; grains can be tricky to find. Make sure that any extract replacement is matched to the grain your replacing. For instance, if the recipe calls for Maris Otter, you want to get English Pale Malt Extract, not American if you want the taste to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T02:35:27.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="403" CreationDate="2010-11-11T03:41:30.317" Score="7" ViewCount="862" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may be able to get my hands on a oaken barrel that I'd love to age a Scottish ale in. What can I do to sanitize it adequately and minimize oxygen exposure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T13:06:41.573" Title="How can you use an oaken barrel for secondary fermentation?" Tags="|sanitation|secondary-fermentation|oak|oxygenation|barrel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="409" CreationDate="2010-11-11T04:21:26.663" Score="6" ViewCount="4440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottle condition my beer, and in the past, I've always just reused commercial beer bottles (I never understood paying for empty beer bottles when I could buy them full of tasty beer!)  Are there are any particular commercial or microbreweries you all recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for recommendations that are preferably 12oz, dark, and non-twist-off.  Also, I won't complain if the beer they contain tastes good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="148" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:39:58.187" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T22:33:02.943" Title="Which commercial bottles are good for repurposing?" Tags="|beer|cider|bottles|commercial|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2010-11-11T05:45:26.313" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get Grolsch Amber in the 16 oz swing-top bottles, they are awesome. They're heavier-duty than most 12 oz non-returnables and with the swing-top you don't have to worry about capping (and most LHBSs carry the rubber washers for them if yours get old and crack). The only drawback is that the sides are not smooth, so on-the-bottle labeling doesn't work too well, but you can always tie labels to the arms of the swingtop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T05:45:26.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2010-11-11T06:42:10.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a buddy in San Diego that makes dog treats out of the spent grain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://doggiebeerbones.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Doggie Beer Bones&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that was pretty cool!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-09-23T11:51:52.483" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T11:51:52.483" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-06T13:50:02.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2010-11-11T06:43:19.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that Dogfish Head's labels come off very easily after soaking in warm water.  They are my favorite, since I love the beer, and they are so easy to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sam Adams, on the other hand, uses some sort of indestructible glue to hold their labels on. While I enjoy their beer as well, I pass on reusing their bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T06:43:19.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="341" CreationDate="2010-11-11T06:51:41.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to make sure you are drying out the bottles sufficiently after sanitizing.  I've had some issues with leaving too much sanitizer in the bottle (duh) killing the residual yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T06:51:41.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2010-11-11T11:16:57.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're all good if they have paper labels.  There's an easy trick to get them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a cheap 5 gallon bucket from&#xA;home depot (or where ever).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get some oxyclean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the bucket with a water/oxyclean solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put it somewhere out of the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you're done with a beer, put the bottle in the bucket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within a couple of days the labels should just float to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T11:16:57.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="396" CreationDate="2010-11-11T12:46:59.017" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;More beer has a great guide on &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/public/pdf/wbarrel.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;taking care of oak barrels&lt;/a&gt; which covers cleaning, sanitizing, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overview is: keep it filled so that it doesn't dry out and use a sulfur-dioxide mixture to sanitize. The oak will soak up some of the beer over time, so brew a little extra and keep it on hand to refill as the level goes down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also remember that oak has some oxygen permeability which is one of the features of using an oak barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T13:06:41.573" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T13:06:41.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="405" CreationDate="2010-11-11T13:14:38.873" Score="12" ViewCount="2889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep StarSan in a spray bottle for easier sanitizing during brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long does the StarSan last in that bottle? Is it good forever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T08:47:11.693" Title="How long does StarSan last?" Tags="|sanitation|starsan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="404" CreationDate="2010-11-11T13:17:44.733" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just after posting the question I found the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fivestarchemicals.com/wp-content/uploads/StarSanTech-HB2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tech Sheet&lt;/a&gt; on Five Star's website. It says that the sanitizer is good so long as the pH remains below 3. Since I'm keeping it in a spray bottle with distilled water it shouldn't ever get above 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T16:51:15.710" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T16:51:15.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="404" CreationDate="2010-11-11T14:02:49.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard people say they reuse it until it starts to turn cloudy, but I'm more apt to use the pH rule, since it lasts longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T14:02:49.290" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2010-11-11T15:45:49.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found most American micro/mini-brew bottles work well.  Breckenridge labels sometimes come off while I'm still drinking the beer.  One type I found &lt;em&gt;didn't&lt;/em&gt; work well was Warsteiner.  The flange on the neck of the bottle was too short for my capper to work properly, and I wasted far too many caps trying to get those bottles capped.  If you have a bench capper, it wouldn't be a problem though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T15:45:49.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="414" CreationDate="2010-11-11T15:46:26.143" Score="9" ViewCount="11354" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I buy a tube of liquid yeast from my local homebrew store and throw it in the fridge, how long before it's no good?  How 'bout dry yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2019-12-15T14:17:15.027" Title="How long can yeast be stored?" Tags="|yeast|storage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2010-11-11T16:13:30.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of bottles and their characteristics for brewing. I highly recommend updating the list with any information you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Bottles#Characteristics_of_Recycled_Bottles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Bottles#Characteristics_of_Recycled_Bottles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T16:13:30.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="408" CreationDate="2010-11-11T16:14:48.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically yeast can be stored indefinitely. Yeast goes into a state of dormancy once all of its food is gone. However the yeast might die if not stored properly. If you plan on keeping a yeast culture for more than six weeks, it's a good idea to make a starter prior to pitching. You do this to ensure viability of the culture, and also to help &quot;wake up&quot; the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/19-brewing-tips/1353-reusing-yeast-and-sherry-notes-mr-wizard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; a link to a BYO Magazine article about yeast storage and reusing as per request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-12-15T14:17:15.027" LastActivityDate="2019-12-15T14:17:15.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="443" CreationDate="2010-11-11T17:08:54.963" Score="13" ViewCount="2068" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about shipping my beer to a fellow homebrewer on the opposite coast.  I know the post office doesn't exactly condone this, but &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you were to mail a bottle or two, how would you do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are any particular boxes better than others, how much padding, who'd be the best company to ship with, any special bottling precautions (taping the cap maybe), etc, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T15:49:58.043" Title="How would you ship your brew?" Tags="|shipping|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2010-11-11T17:20:52.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a buddy that ships beer every once in a while through the mail and he individually wraps the bottles in news paper. I believe he also keeps them boxed (obviously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T19:02:20.673" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T19:02:20.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2010-11-11T17:34:38.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The federal law:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All spirituous, vinous, malted, fermented, or other intoxicating liquors of any kind are nonmailable and shall not be deposited in or carried through the mails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;- &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/18/1716.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/18/1716.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it seems like a lot of people get away with it, and as long as it's a pretty small volume (a few bottle), you'd be fine.  Just wrap it in bubble-wrap and box it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T17:34:38.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="408" CreationDate="2010-11-11T17:56:09.680" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your liquid yeast should have an expiration date. Most dry yeasts will as well. This means that the yeast within is only going to be reproducing and active for that long. Typically 3 months after shipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long answer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When yeast run out of food or are under other forms of stress, they will enter a sporulation phase. During this process, the yeast will transfer vital cell parts and DNA in to a spore. Spores can live very long periods of time. I'm not sure how long yeast spore live but other Fungi spores have been known to live for upwards of 250 million years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to make a yeast starter and bring yeast spores back to an active state within a couple days if feed and stored at ideal reproductive temperatures regardless of how long you've had them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastEditorUserId="12" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T21:12:55.593" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T21:12:55.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="337" CreationDate="2010-11-11T18:31:49.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First I'd ask the store what they suggest.  People who buy this have probably told them their good ideas of how they handle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wow, that's a lot of DME.  Handling DME is a bit tricky.  Just pouring it out of a bag it collects and bunches up and gets all sticky at the bag opening.  I'd probably divide it up into freezer bags, with 5 or 10 pounds in each, but I'd make sure I didn't do so on a humid day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T18:31:49.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2010-11-11T18:44:49.603" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a significant difference between &quot;mailing&quot; and &quot;shipping&quot; when it comes to the law (a US perspective is all I can really offer). Because the mail is run by the government, and violating their rules is actually violating the law, I don't use the USPS for sending anything remotely near the &quot;gray area&quot; around the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to 3rd party shippers like FedEx, UPS and smaller companies, the stakes are much lower. When you ask FedEx to ship something, it's just a business transaction and contract. That's why, for all of the alcohol you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; buy online (like buying from wineries), it's shipped by one of these carriers and usually requires an adult to sign for receipt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that most of what you may be violating is company policy instead of law. As such, the penalties, while still potentially irritating (I sure wouldn't want to be prohibited from sending anything via FedEx again), they're not jail time. This is why a lot of homebrewers use FedEx or UPS to ship stuff around for competitions, etc. The general advice I've heard is to kind of play &quot;don't ask, don't tell&quot; with the shipper, saying you're shipping &quot;live yeast cultures&quot; or just plain not saying what you're shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, laws like &quot;transporting alcohol across state lines&quot; are still in play. If it'd be illegal to put the box in your car and drive it to your destination, it's probably illegal to ship it via FedEx too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as physically protecting it, the main risk is to bottles colliding. When I've bought empty bottles, they're usually shipped in a box that has a grid of cardboard separating each bottle, plus each bottle is wrapped in a piece of brown paper about 3 layers thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The submission guidelines for competitions also usually include the requirement that the entire contents be inside a garbage bag that gets sealed at the top, so that your recipient is basically opening a box that has a garbage bag full of wrapped bottles inside it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T18:44:49.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="324" CreationDate="2010-11-11T18:46:41.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is related, your issue seems like it would be more caused by line length and/or pressure, but one of the tips to reduce foaming I learned while bartending was to always pull the tap at the bottom, vs the top of the tap handle. The reasoning is that you get the tap fully open much more quickly by snapping the whole tap open rather than using your whole arm to pull the top of the handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more time the tap stays in a not-fully open state, the more turbulence the expressed beer goes through as it navigates the valve. The split-second difference may not seem like much but once foam exists in the glass, the rest of a normal pour just exacerbates the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micromatic.com/keg-beer-edu/pouring-perfect-beer-cid-1863.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.micromatic.com/keg-beer-edu/pouring-perfect-beer-cid-1863.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T18:46:41.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="429" CreationDate="2010-11-11T19:06:36.563" Score="7" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a few threads here and there saying that one thing to do as soon as possible is start doing a full boil (5 gallons in the boil instead of ~3 in the boil with ~2 of water added later).  For reference, I'm considering this in the context of extract brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm curious- what's your opinion?  If you went to full boils, was it a significant improvement?  Was it worth the cost of a bigger pot and heating method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T21:42:46.443" Title="How much does a full boil affect things?" Tags="|beer|boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="426" CreationDate="2010-11-11T19:35:22.647" Score="16" ViewCount="3060" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made an IPA. I put an ounce of Cascade pellets in the secondary (for a 23-litre [6-U.S.-gallon] batch), but there is hardly any hops aroma in the finished product. By the end of the two weeks, the hops had all sunk to the bottom, so I know they were exposed to the beer and not just floating. Is an ounce not enough? Is there some other way this could have failed? I trust my LHBS and would assume that they sold me fresh, properly-stored ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was using Danstar Nottingham yeast, which is highly-flocculating. Could that have pulled the dry hops out of the wort and deposited it in the trub during the secondary phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T23:01:21.687" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T00:27:06.840" Title="How can I maximize dry hops aroma?" Tags="|beer|hops|dry-hopping|aroma|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2010-11-11T19:41:18.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swing-top bottles are the best, especially &quot;Howe Sound&quot; bottles (which are a full litre [2 pints], and come filled with excellent beer). &quot;Red Stripe&quot; bottles are really easy to cap with a &quot;Red Baron&quot;-style capper, and are brown which prevents skunking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for completeness, if you have the right kind of caps, &quot;Red Baron&quot;-style cappers typically seal twist-off bottles very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T19:41:18.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="419" CreationDate="2010-11-11T19:58:28.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a big aroma rather than hop notes, I'd add more like 2-4 ozs depending on what you're looking for.  IMO Cascades are great for dry hopping though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T19:58:28.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-11-11T20:52:44.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the earlier two answers are great, but one thing which is missing is that it is also potentially important is how well the brewery maintains their yeast and their overall quality control. Depending on the beer you are making and how quickly it will be consumed, I think it is important to understand how well the brewery keeps their yeast. A lot of smaller breweries don't do a great job of this (and to be fair, if they are serving beer on premises (ie. not bottling) and moving their beer quickly, it may not be their most critical issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So things I'd look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do they bottle? You have to maintain higher standards if you are bottling. If they do, have you had an off bottle from them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do they have a lab? Doesn't mean that they know what they are doing, but at least it shows an interest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long do they keep their yeast? Some breweries get fresh yeast from a supplier on a regular basis. Others will get fresh yeast for every batch. Some maintain their own and only bank their strain for emergencies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These issues are much less important if you are looking at yeast for a pale ale that is going to be consumed at a party as soon as it is ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T20:52:44.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="336" CreationDate="2010-11-11T20:56:18.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The minimum amount of equipment to dabble in all grain is one item:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A friend who does all grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously, there are a lot of ways of doing all grain and the equipment you will want to end up getting will vary from person to person, so the ability to borrow some equipment to make your first batch or two (and even better, lure the friend over to help/make suggestions) of all grain beer will help you know what you want/need to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T20:56:18.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="262" CreationDate="2010-11-11T21:00:37.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had some tremendous partial mash beers. If you have good quality extract and supplement with some specialty grains, I think you can get very high quality results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the biggest downside is that you have less control over the final beer and thus are more limited in what you make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would say stick with extract until the idea of doing a full mash sounds appealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T21:00:37.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="346" CreationDate="2010-11-11T21:09:29.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some recipes for Mexican lagers call for clear bottles &amp;amp; sunlight exposure, because skunking (and the subsequent lime-wedge-addition) is considered part of the style of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T21:09:29.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="419" CreationDate="2010-11-11T21:11:52.770" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hop aroma will dissipate over time.  I found that dry hopping just as fermentation was ending (primary vessel, no secondary) resulted in losing most of the aroma over the next 1-2 weeks, but the room smelt great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More hops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't leave them in so long.  Try 3 or 4 days before you bottle.  Longer times might also result in unwanted grassy or plant flavours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider making &quot;dry hop tea&quot; and pitching that, &quot;dissolving&quot; the pellets first.  If you used pellets and they sunk to the bottom they might not have been as effective as they could have been.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an episode of Brew Strong dedicated to dry hopping: &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/Brew-Strong-12-08-08-Dry-Hopping&quot;&gt;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/Brew-Strong-12-08-08-Dry-Hopping&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="104" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T21:11:52.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="419" CreationDate="2010-11-11T21:22:00.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Mr. Malty&quot; offers an alternative to dry hopping with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;large addition of late hops&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastEditorUserId="94" LastEditDate="2012-02-21T00:27:06.840" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T00:27:06.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="418" CreationDate="2010-11-11T21:40:34.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had some damn good partial boiled homebrews, and some nasty full boils, so I don't think you're going to see a huge quality difference either way, just as long as you're not scorching or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ever plan on going all grain , you'll need to do full boils.  But you'll end up saving money every time you brew so you can almost think of it as a negative cost.  The biggest negative I think is trying to cool it down, you can't really do any ice cube tricks, or add cold water or anything.  One plus though, it that boil overs are was less common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T21:40:34.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="418" CreationDate="2010-11-11T21:42:46.443" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main problem that I ran in to with my partial boils was that &lt;strong&gt;the wort caramelized&lt;/strong&gt; because I was using a pot that didn't evenly distribute the heat well enough. And since there was less water than a full boil, the sugar concentration was higher. So, I had hot spots on the bottom of the pot that would burn the sugar in my wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the higher the gravity of the boiling wort, &lt;strong&gt;you will need to add more hops&lt;/strong&gt; to the wort in order to have the desired IBU level. The alpha acid in the hops need to isomerize in order to give us that bittering taste. The sugar concentration will inhibit that isomerization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T21:42:46.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="433" CreationDate="2010-11-11T22:44:13.423" Score="3" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've added a bunch of sugar to brews before, upwards of 30% of the grain weight and I'm yet to get any cidery flavors.  You always hear sugar causes cider, but all I've ever noticed is a thinner body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody ever had a noticable flavor effect of adding sugar, intentionally or unintentionally, if so, how much did you add?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T02:46:57.393" Title="How much sugar does it take to get &quot;cidery&quot; off flavors." Tags="|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2010-11-12T00:26:09.233" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dogs absolutely love spent grain dog biscuits, I use this recipe (originally from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bodensatz.com/article.php?story=20031113110747266&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 cups spent grain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 cups flour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 cup peanut butter (or oil or pizza sauce)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 egg &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix together thoroughly (get your hands in there!), place onto lined baking tray in whatever shapes you like and bake for 30 mins at 350F/180C then reduce heat to around 225F/110C and leave in oven until completely dried out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Hops can be harmful to some breeds of dog, don't use grain that has been first wort hopped for this recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T00:26:09.233" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-06T13:50:02.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="324" CreationDate="2010-11-12T00:32:16.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this same issue and it's caused by the temperature differential between the beer lines (inside the fridge) and the tap (outside the fridge). Once the tap cools down after a couple of pints are poured the problem goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not much to be done about it without completely changing the set-up and mounting taps in a flooded font. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T00:32:16.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="430" CreationDate="2010-11-12T02:46:57.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never really gotten &quot;cidery&quot; flavors from adding sugars. From what I've read the sugar needs to be from 40% - 50% to get these flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say that adding too much sugar to a brew can give you some &quot;hot&quot; alcohol flavors that take time to mellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T02:46:57.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2010-11-12T02:57:49.740" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a few ciders and here are some things that I found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apple juice is completely fermentable, which means it will dry out. More than likely this is what is giving you those &quot;acidic&quot; flavors. It's not so much acid, as it is a lack of residual sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To balance this you need to add something non-fermentable to it. Typically when I make cider I will add 2 pounds of pale or amber dry malt extract, as well as 1 pound of Crystal 60L grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sugars left by these will leave you with more body and a less dry cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also not a bad idea to use a less attenuative yeast than what many people do for ciders in conjunction with the use of malt extract and grains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could test the acidity levels with pH testing strips. If you want to strait up change the acidity instead of adding the non-fermentables then you could add calcium carbonate. The pH of cider should be between 3.2 - 3.8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="35" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T03:44:49.653" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T03:44:49.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="148" CreationDate="2010-11-12T03:03:23.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be careful in repitching yeast as you could end up with bottle bombs. If you pitch a higher attenuating yeast at bottling, it could eat residual sugar still in your beer on top of the priming sugar you added for bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about viability of the yeast in your beer I would simply take a small sample of the yeast from your carboy and try to make a starter with it. If the yeast successfully ferments the starter, then you know that the yeast is good and you can simply add priming sugar as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the yeast doesn't take for the starter then I would just pitch in another vial of the same yeast you used for fermentation along with priming sugar. This way you don't have to worry about over attenuation and bottle bombs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that higher gravity brews can take a lot longer to properly carbonate than your standard beer. I've had higher gravity beers take 3 months to properly carbonate. So just because your previous beers have had trouble carbonating, it doesn't really mean a problem with the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="35" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T04:20:02.943" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T04:20:02.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="439" CreationDate="2010-11-12T03:14:02.003" Score="7" ViewCount="1007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a saison earlier this summer. After primary fermentation was complete I took 3 gallons of it and added Wyeast Roeselare Blend. Two months later I added cherries and pecan chips. It formed a thick crusty pellicle and has been going for about 6 months. The pellicle still has not dropped. How long will a pellicle typically take to drop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T17:49:53.633" Title="How long for a pellicle to drop when brewing lambic?" Tags="|beer|fruit|wild-yeast|lambics|saison|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="419" CreationDate="2010-11-12T04:52:00.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try using more hops. 1 oz. is really not a lot for dry hopping an IPA. If you're going for that west coast grapefruit/fruity hop aroma then Amarillo hops will be more suited as their aroma/flavor is much more intense.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try using a yeast that's going to accentuate the fruitiness of the hops. Dry notty yeast has almost no flavor/aroma, which can be desirable in a lot of beers. However if you're looking to really highlight the aroma/flavor of the hops then you want a yeast that will produce similar flavors and aromas. Wyeast 1056 is known for producing subtle citrus notes and light fruitiness. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try first wort hopping. Take 30% - 35% of your hop schedule and move it to first wort hopping. Adding some hops here reduces the pH level of your wort and increases the isomerization of the rest of the essential oils and AA in your hops. This will you a more refined and distinct hop/flavor aroma.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a great read from John Palmer on how to FWH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T04:52:00.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="436" CreationDate="2010-11-12T07:03:41.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking around and I can't find an account of someone who had their pellicle ever drop, including one guy going on 2 years.  The accepted practice seems to be to rack it from underneath the pellicle when it's ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T17:49:53.633" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T17:49:53.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="436" CreationDate="2010-11-12T11:35:55.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is your vessel? The bugs in Roeselare need more oxygen than yeast does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard that using a plastic bucket, which lets in quite a bit of oxygen, can drop the pellicle in as little as 6 months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen people use the wooden-stick-in-a-carboy method that have dropped between 1 and 2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like @Fishtoaster said, some people wait until the pellicle drops, others rack from underneath it. If you want a decent overview, the Jamil Show had a good episode on &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/The-Jamil-Show/Flanders-Red-Ale-The-Jamil-Show-01-29-07&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Flanders Red&lt;/a&gt; that I recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T11:35:55.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2010-11-12T13:19:49.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Twist off caps are like caps on wine bottles.  They make the product appear cheap.  There's a satisfying gratification to using a tool to pop off the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T13:19:49.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="454" CreationDate="2010-11-12T14:50:25.280" Score="15" ViewCount="3407" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I was looking to refill my supply of bottle caps and ran across &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/15669/102304/Bottle_Caps_-_Oxygen_Absorbing_1_2_lb&quot;&gt;&quot;Oxygen Absorbing&quot; bottle caps&lt;/a&gt;. The implication is that their absorbency will reduce oxidation in the bottled beer. If you're already &quot;capping on foam&quot;, etc. do these make any &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; difference or is this just another gimmick? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="12" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T21:49:51.777" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T21:49:51.777" Title="Do Oxygen Absorbing Caps Make Any Difference" Tags="|bottling|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-12T15:27:51.073" Score="5" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people have drastically different taste in beers. I can only imagine that carries over to the types of beer people love to brew. What's your favorite beer to brew yourself, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T16:31:14.840" Title="What's your favorite type of beer to brew... and why?" Tags="|beer|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-03-10T15:09:16.823" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2010-11-12T15:49:58.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had good experience with wrapping each bottle individually with bubble wrap, and putting them in a box that is as small as possible (to provide a tight fit, so they don't shift much inside the box).  Then fill in all the empty space with packing peanuts (or crumpled up newspaper, if you don't have any peanuts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as others have stated, don't send it through the US Postal Service.  Use a private carrier, such as FedEx or UPS.  Generally, they don't ask what is in the package, but if they do, tell them it is 'yeast samples for analysis'.  (After all, that is not untrue.... though it might not be the yeast itself that is going to be 'analyzed', but the medium used to ship the yeast :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T15:49:58.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-11-12T16:07:15.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to go a step even easier than ale, you can make cider.  They just take a little longer to properly condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T16:07:15.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="447" CreationDate="2010-11-12T16:12:08.297" Score="5" ViewCount="6116" Body="&lt;p&gt;When brewing from an extract kit we always seem to be low in the Original Gravity department. It's usually not a lot -- something like 1.055 instead of 1.060. What might be causing this to happen? Is there anything we can do to check and adjust before the fermentation begins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T02:05:57.790" Title="Why is our Original Gravity low?" Tags="|beer|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="442" CreationDate="2010-11-12T16:12:19.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started brewing because I had a hard time finding good commercial examples of the styles I like best: English/Irish/Scottish session beers. Milds, English Browns, Irish Reds, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T16:12:19.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="445" CreationDate="2010-11-12T16:20:25.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're doing a concentrated boil, it's possible you're just adding too much water to the fermenter when you finally put it together.  For a five gallon batch, a difference of about half a gallon of water will cause that exact difference in OG.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing a full wort boil, it could be the difference between boiling with the lid on and boiling with the lid off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T16:20:25.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="442" CreationDate="2010-11-12T16:21:32.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a fan of the more full-flavored beers.  The two that worked out best for me were an Irish Red ale and and Oatmeal Stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T16:21:32.873" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-12T16:21:32.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="451" CreationDate="2010-11-12T16:29:36.497" Score="10" ViewCount="8099" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/445/why-is-our-original-gravity-low/447#447&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; it is mentioned that boiling with the lid on or off may make a difference in final gravity. Which do you recommend and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T12:36:33.553" Title="Boiling with lid on or off?" Tags="|beer|boil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="442" CreationDate="2010-11-12T16:31:14.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like brewing lawnmower ales, with recycled yeast (sometimes more than one strain) and leftover hops.  Just because it's always a cheap brew day that gives me beer everybody (including the AB drinkers) likes.  And it always has a different off-flavor, mint, citrus, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T16:31:14.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="449" CreationDate="2010-11-12T16:36:30.200" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to boil with your lid off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the process of boiling is to remove dimethyl sulfide (DMS), which is a sulfur compound off flavor that tastes like cooked corn. DMS is formed by heating the wort. If you leave the lid on the kettle DMS won't evaporate with the steam and you'll have more of the flavor in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also run the risk of boilover if you leave the lid on, but DMS is the larger concern. This is also one of the reasons you want a real, rolling boil as it allows more DMS to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T16:36:30.200" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="449" CreationDate="2010-11-12T16:37:24.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the difference (regarding gravity) would just be water volume. Lid off = liquid lost to steam. You can compensate by adding more (or less) water after the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual amount of liquid lost depends on the geometry of your kettle, but I think 1-1.5 gallons per hour is a rule of thumb. The easy way to know for sure is to measure before and after a boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T16:43:08.417" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T16:43:08.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="457" CreationDate="2010-11-12T17:50:30.623" Score="7" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never made a Rauchbier before. I have some pear wood that I've been curing for about 5 months now and would like to use. I've got an all-grain setup, but no smoker; I suppose I'll need to get one. I was thinking about an electric smoker because I've heard they are much more efficient than a charcoal smoker. Any dramatic differences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the process of smoking is concerned, would I just chip the wood, drop it in the smoker, and put the grain on a screen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that the right process? How long should I smoke it for? Are there any tried and true guidelines? If I smoke it &quot;to taste,&quot; should I try to get the smoke flavor greater/less/equal to the flavor I want the beer to taste like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastEditorUserId="121" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T21:54:34.020" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T21:54:34.020" Title="I want to make a Rauchbier. How do I go about smoking my grain?" Tags="|beer|grain|smoke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2010-11-12T17:53:05.677" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes; I'd say they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when capping on foam, you're still going to end up with some O2 in the bottles. This usually isn't enough to turn a beer bad, but depending on how long you're planning to age the beer it can make a difference. I'd always use oxygen-absorbing caps on higher gravity beers like barleywines and imperial stouts that I plan to keep in the bottle for 6+ months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things to keep in mind when using them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Like other caps, never boil them. Boiling the caps will ruin the rubber seal making them next to worthless.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use them immediately after getting them wet (e.g. after dipping them in sanitizer). I learned this from my LHBS a few weeks ago; getting the caps wet activates the O2-absorbing properties, so you want to cap immediately after sanitizing. Any caps left over afterward will still work as regular caps, but their capacity to absorb O2 is greatly reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At my LHBS, the oxygen absorbing caps don't cost much more than regular caps so I always buy them. YMMV, so take the style of beer you're bottling into consideration and decide from there if there's a huge price difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T17:53:05.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="366" CreationDate="2010-11-12T17:57:06.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find this forum to have some good beer recipes. Two of the good threads below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;amp;t=8174&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;amp;t=8174&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;amp;t=12097&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;amp;t=12097&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T18:00:22.280" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T18:00:22.280" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-12T17:57:06.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="366" CreationDate="2010-11-12T18:01:59.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some Jamil Zainasheff Beer recpies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerdujour.com/JamilsRecipes.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jamil Recipes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerdujour.com/JamilsBrewingNetworkRecipes.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jamil's Brewing Network Recipes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T18:01:59.160" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-12T18:01:59.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="453" CreationDate="2010-11-12T18:05:45.707" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a smoked porter about two months ago, and it turned out great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used charcoal and applewood in my cylindrical smoker (they run about $40 at Lowe's). My LHBS advised that I should smoke the base malt before milling, but since I didn't have a mill I ended up milling first and then smoking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I placed a few pounds at a time on the top rack of the smoker on a bed of cheesecloth, and every 10 minutes or so took a fork and stirred it up a bit to get an even smoke (I also sprayed it down with bourbon but that's personal preference..). Each batch of grain was in the smoker for about 30 - 45 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I mashed and brewed as normal. The beer turned out really well, but if I brew this beer in the future I'm definitely going to smoke the grain a little less; the smoke flavor dominates the beer (which may be good or bad depending on what you're going for).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T18:05:45.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="458" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="470" CreationDate="2010-11-12T19:34:09.990" Score="6" ViewCount="3107" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very new brewer here, and I recently tried a generic IPA recipe doled out by my LHBS, and it ended up very sweet with little bitterness or hop aroma. The recipe is here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewmart.com/recipes_beer.php#AmericanIPA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://homebrewmart.com/recipes_beer.php#AmericanIPA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed it mostly to the letter, and ended up with about a 7ish% abv beer that tastes more like a belgian tripel than it does any IPA i've grown accustomed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone see anything weird about that recipe, or must it have been something I did? Comparing to other IPA recipes i've seen online, the amount of DME seems high and the amount of hops seems low, but I don't have enough batches under my belt to predict the end character of a beer by recipe alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T03:36:02.557" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T03:36:02.557" Title="IPA recipe left very sweet, little bitterness or aroma" Tags="|beer|hops|recipe|ipa|dme|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="262" CreationDate="2010-11-12T19:40:00.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with PVM and Jeff about the costs and time issues.  I also agree about the fun factor.  I find it to be a very relaxing and enjoyable morning when I brew.  I brew outside on the patio under my deck.  So I tend to do most of my brewing in the spring and fall.  I work around the weather as needed.  A morning spent brewing reminds me a lot of a morning at a tailgate.  There's a moderate amount of activity to hold your attention and when you have free moments you can kick back with a beer and enjoy the fresh air (and smell of beer brewing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T19:40:00.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="458" CreationDate="2010-11-12T19:41:51.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, if the beer tastes too sweet, you'll need more bittering which comes from hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might try adding a couple hop additions, perhaps like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1-2 oz - 60 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz - 20 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz - 10 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry Hop 1-2 oz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add even more, if you want. My base IPA has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2oz - 60 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1oz - 20 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1oz - 10 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1oz - 0 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2oz Dryhop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: For aroma, see related question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/419/how-can-i-maximize-dry-hops-aroma&quot;&gt;How can I maximize dry hop aroma&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T19:41:51.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="463" CreationDate="2010-11-12T20:25:54.480" Score="4" ViewCount="1309" Body="&lt;p&gt;For less than around 2 pounds of milled grain in a nylon bag, do you need an elaborate sparging process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you need much of the equipment for an all-grain setup, or can you basically just soak the grain in fresh water for a few minutes and then add that to the boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="121" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T21:52:47.440" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T23:24:52.637" Title="How do you sparge small amounts of grain in a partial mash recipe?" Tags="|beer|grain|extract-plus-grains|partial-mash|sparge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="453" CreationDate="2010-11-12T20:55:31.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick way, though definitely not traditional (that would include boiling with hot rocks anyway) would be to simply add dark toast oak cubes or chips to the secondary.  Now, this might be cheating but its quick and easy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a smoked bourbon porter and used 2oz med toast oak cubes for about a week in the secondary.  The resulting beer was quite smokey but it faded a bit after a while.  If you used dark toast in a higher quantity I am sure you would get a nice smokey finished product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T20:55:31.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="461" CreationDate="2010-11-12T20:57:01.627" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done all of the following in extract + grains brewing with 1 - 4 lbs of grain and I can honestly say I've never noticed a difference in the final product:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove grain bag from brew kettle, place in bowl, pour hot water over it, press it with spoon, add liquid back to kettle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove grain bag from kettle, hold above kettle while spraying with hose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove grain bag from kettle, say &quot;meh, I'm too lazy to sparge today,&quot; and do nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T20:57:01.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="474" CreationDate="2010-11-12T21:47:42.630" Score="10" ViewCount="4152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using the cheap plastic spoon that you'll typically find at your local homebrew store. It's pretty terrible when it comes to agitating my mash tun. Heat + Resistance = Bent plastic spoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about making my own wood paddle. I probably shouldn't laminate wood together, leeched glue compounds probably aren't the best for your health. So, I was thinking about just buying a piece of oak and using a router or jigsaw to shape it. What type of wood should I use? Do I need to go to a specialty lumber store? I've considered just going to Lowe's or Home Depot and picking up some cedar. Is all that stuff chemically treated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I better off just buying a small marine paddle and sanding it? Or are there wood treatment concerns there as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastActivityDate="2021-02-14T11:53:27.317" Title="What material should I make my brew paddle with?" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="467" CreationDate="2010-11-12T22:32:37.310" Score="11" ViewCount="1259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that it helps clear the beer, but how does it do that, and how is it used?  Further, are there any tradeoffs associated with using it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T22:50:31.073" Title="What does Irish Moss do?" Tags="|beer|irish-moss|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="461" CreationDate="2010-11-12T22:38:41.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I did partial-mash batches, I usually placed the bag of grain in a mesh strainer above my brew pot and poured my sparge water over the bag. It helps to find a strainer wide enough so that it's handles rest on the rim of your pot, otherwise you'll need a brave friend to hold it while you pour your sparge water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T22:38:41.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="465" CreationDate="2010-11-12T22:50:31.073" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Irish moss is added to the boil for the last 10-15 minutes. It acts as a clarifying agent by attracting proteins and other solids in the wort, causing them to form larger particles that are more easily removed and/or flocculate out. Consequently, it reduces chill haze in the beer later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it doesn't exactly smell pleasant by itself, it doesn't add any flavors or aromas to the beer, especially because so little of it is needed to take advantage of its clarifying effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T22:50:31.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="464" CreationDate="2010-11-12T23:04:29.193" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not completely set on making your own, many homebrew stores (local and online) sell large stainless steel brew spoons that work great, especially because they can be used both for mashing and for the boil, and can be sanitized easily. I still use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_59_84&amp;amp;products_id=880&quot;&gt;the one that came with my starter kit&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2010-11-13T00:58:03.443" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T00:58:03.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="473" CreationDate="2010-11-13T00:03:12.140" Score="6" ViewCount="3838" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I brew 5-gallon all-grain batches using my propane burner and 7.5-gallon brew pot. I've been considering buying a bigger pot and building a bigger MLT to do 10-gallon batches, but I'm not sure what the best way to go about fermenting that much wort would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it common to simply split the wort into two 5-gallon primaries, or am I better off investing in a larger primary vessel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:29:24.743" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:29:24.743" Title="How are 10-gallon batches commonly fermented?" Tags="|beer|techniques|fermentation|primary|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="458" CreationDate="2010-11-13T00:18:01.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, for an IPA, that recipe looks a little low on the late hop additions for flavor and aroma for modern US-style IPA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you add the 1 oz of cascade as a dry hop called for in the recipe? Their recipe page has it listed on the same line with the yeast rather than the next line, and maybe you missed it; I know I missed it on the first read through. If that was omitted it would definitely have less hop notes, given that only half an ounce is used for late hopping in the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the sweetness and bitterness.  Did you measure your final gravity?  If your fermentation didn't quite finish out all the way, you might be somewhere in the 1.020 - 1.030 FG range, which is going to make it taste sweeter.  Your final gravity should be less than 1.018 for that style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the 9# from the recipe is liquid/syrup and not dried extract, I've calculated you should have had an OG around 1.075 and IBUs of 65 for a 5 gallon finished batch size. For an IPA, you want an IBU to Gravity Ratio (BU:GU) of .8 or so. That recipe is about .86, which is about right.  (Noticed you said DME, aka DRY malt extract...if you used dry extract, you definitely added too much malt and not enough bittering hops; 9# dry in 5 gallons would bump it to 1.086 OG.  Dry and liquid malt extract are NOT interchangeable 1-to-1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you finished around 1.018, you should have a 7.7% beer. If you say it's only 7%, then perhaps you're fermentation didn't finish completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary, the recipe is about right as far as bitterness goes, but light on flavor and aroma hops (especially if you forgot the dry hop cascades).  If you used dry malt extract, you used too much for the amount of hops listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T00:18:01.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="469" CreationDate="2010-11-13T00:25:48.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually just split - it gives you the additional option of treating the two halves differently (different yeasts, dry hop vs. not, etc.) if you want to play around with a recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T00:25:48.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="469" CreationDate="2010-11-13T00:26:32.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pretty common to split.  There are upsides: it allows you to experiment with different yeast temperatures, pitching rates, and dry hop additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go with one big fermenter, then you can use a converted keg, bigger plastic bucket, or drop some cash on a stainless conical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T00:26:32.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="469" CreationDate="2010-11-13T00:26:47.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Multiple 5-gallon primaries seems pretty common.  A few discussions of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few split-fermenters, and one single-fermenter:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/fermenting-10-gallon-batch-75051/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/fermenting-10-gallon-batch-75051/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few split-fermenters and one single-fermenter:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.morebeer.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&amp;amp;t=32355&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.morebeer.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&amp;amp;t=32355&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way is fine:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/19-brewing-tips/226-big-batch-brewing-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/19-brewing-tips/226-big-batch-brewing-techniques&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On thing to consider is that a 10-gallon container of liquid weighs ~82 lbs, and is very difficult to move.  I haven't gone to 10-gallon batches yet, but when I do, I expect I'll be doing split fermentations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T00:26:47.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="464" CreationDate="2010-11-13T00:27:29.283" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to stay away from laminated wood I wouldn't use a marine paddle, which is most likely going to be laminated.  Also, they might've used a stain or dye on the paddle that can soak deep down into the wood, so you don't really know how much you need to sand off to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd stay clear of cedar, unless you want a cedar flavor in your beer.  My first choice would be maple, since it's non-porous and very hard (it also seems like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mashpaddle.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;popular choice&lt;/a&gt;), but oak would be fine too.  I see oak cooking spoons all of the time.  You might have a hard time finding those at a normal hardware store though.  I would check with either &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockler.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rockler&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodcraft.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Woodcraft&lt;/a&gt;.  If you don't have one of their stores near you you can always order online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Big box hardware stores would probably sell planks of poplar, which would also be another good option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T18:36:10.087" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T18:36:10.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="477" CreationDate="2010-11-13T00:32:00.743" Score="16" ViewCount="1800" Body="&lt;p&gt;More specifically, what methods exist to cool your wort after the boil, and what are there respective pros/cons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:41:16.437" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T07:25:22.590" Title="How do you cool wort?" Tags="|beer|wort|temperature|cooling|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2010-11-13T01:04:59.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew 23-litre batches split between two 20-litre canning pots.  Cooling them down in a &lt;strong&gt;bathtub of cold water&lt;/strong&gt; works quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an old copper immersion chiller, which a friend had gotten from someone else.  It was old and a little tarnished.  I cleaned it off to what seemed to me to be an acceptable level and used it on my first all-grain batch, and I'm pretty sure it ruined it.  That batch is not drinkable, and the off-taste it has seems metallic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think bad experiences from copper-coiled immersion chillers are very rare -- lots of people use them without problems.  But now I'm happy with my bathtub solution, and don't intend to change any time soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T01:04:59.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2010-11-13T01:17:02.193" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few methods, each with advantages and drawbacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cool your Kettle&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your hot brew kettle, full of wort, and submerge it in ice water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages:&lt;/strong&gt;  No real equipment expense, just take your pot and put it in a cooler or bathtub full of ice water.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Drawbacks:&lt;/strong&gt; Extremely slow, higher risk of contamination.  Probably have to change out the ice several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mix in Ice&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add ice directly to the hot wort.  (Alton Brown does this in his brewing episode.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages:&lt;/strong&gt; Same as above.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Drawbacks:&lt;/strong&gt; Can only be done for a concentrated wort boil.  Only able to add enough ice to get to desired volume.  No way of really ensuring your ice is sanitary--so a significant risk of contamination&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Immersion Wort Chiller&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A coil of copper hose immersed in the hot wort, with cold water flowing through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages:&lt;/strong&gt;  Much faster than previous two methods.  Faster cooling means sooner yeast pitching, which lowers your risk of contamination.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Drawbacks:&lt;/strong&gt; Modest equipment expense, plumbing setup required to route water into and out of the copper tubing.  Chiller must be sanitized before use.  Corroded copper can impart off-flavors to your beer.  Still have to transfer cooled wort to your fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Counterflow Wort Chiller&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A coil of copper hose within a coil of other (typically rubber, vinyl, or garden hose) tubing.  Wort flows through the copper tubing, and cold water flows through the surrounding hose in the opposite direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages:&lt;/strong&gt; By far, the fastest cooling method.  Hot wort goes in one end of the chiller, and by the time it comes out, it is cool.  Chiller can be used as part of the siphon path on the way from brewkettle to fermenter.  It's possible to cool a 5-gallon batch to pitching tempurature in less than 5 minutes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Drawbacks:&lt;/strong&gt; Also the most complicated setup.  Interior of copper tubing must be sanitized.  More expensive (usually) than immersion chiller.  Requires reasonably extensive plumbing setup (siphon to chiller, chiller to fermenter, faucet to chiler, chiller to drain), and requires siphoning hot liquids.  Requires cleaning the interior of a (usually) narrow copper tube when you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Plate chillers and other heat exchangers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Thanks to Morgan for pointing this one out)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Similar in function to counterflow chillers.  Hot wort and cold water in, cool wort and warm water out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages:&lt;/strong&gt; Same as counterflow chillers, possibly more efficient, depending on your model.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Drawbacks:&lt;/strong&gt; Again, largely the same as counterflow chillers: expense, plumbing setup, and cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first two batches used the &quot;Cool your Kettle&quot; method.  It works, but it can take half an hour or longer.  I've been using a counterflow chiller ever since, and I'll probably never use anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2010-11-13T01:23:43.650" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T01:23:43.650" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="253" CreationDate="2010-11-13T01:38:55.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, but I'm fascinated.  The writeup you linked to seems pretty comprehensive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does seem like a really nice way to get the benefits of a decoction while saving yourself the labor involved in a decoction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some concerns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll get DMS formation in the enclosed environment, but any that is formed should be readily boiled off as normal during the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may not 'scale' well for a normal batch size;  pulling a 3rd of the mash for decoction can be 1-3 gallons by volume... that's a lot of little canning jars you'd need. Will they all fit in the pressure cooker? How much does a big enough pressure cooker cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider cleanup.  Would you rather clean one decoction pot (which is usually your boil kettle anyway), or a dozen little jars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T01:38:55.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="480" CreationDate="2010-11-13T01:47:44.350" Score="13" ViewCount="1161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be using a Yeast Starter so that I can make sure I have enough, healthy yeast, but I've never managed to go around to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I start a yeast starter? How long before brewday should I start? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:12:07.767" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T16:28:37.003" Title="How do I make a Yeast Starter?" Tags="|yeast|techniques|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="479" CreationDate="2010-11-13T02:10:33.623" Score="7" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start early- take the yeast of out the refrigerator ~3 days before brewday, and let it warm up to room temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil a pint (2 cups) of water and mix in 1/2 a cup of dry malt extract (DME).  Boil that for 10 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optionally add yeast nutrients at this point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool the water to 80 degrees or less (set the pan in a sink with an inch or two of water, for example)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour this stuff (including sediment) into a sanitized glass mason jar (or something like that)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the yeast, then vigorously stir/shake the mixture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stopper and airlock the jar (or just use a balloon with a needle hole, or plastic wrap held on by a rubber band)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store this out of direct light and in a temperature as close as possible to the temperature you plan to ferment your beer at.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="2374" LastEditDate="2012-06-06T16:28:37.003" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T16:28:37.003" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="533" CreationDate="2010-11-13T05:43:01.677" Score="18" ViewCount="12319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know how to use my hydrometer, and I know what numbers to look at and write down on my brewing sheets, but I'm not sure what those numbers actually represent, or even what units I should use to label those readings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the science behind the hydrometer? How are they calibrated? What else should I know about the theory of using one to make better beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T20:28:41.443" Title="How Does a Hydrometer Work?" Tags="|hydrometer|original-gravity|science|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="481" CreationDate="2010-11-13T16:25:35.680" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general principle is based on density.  That is, less dense things will float on top of denser things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By analogy, imagine a human floating in a pool of water.  Now imagine a human floating in a pool of salt water- the human will float higher in the salt water, since the density of the salt water is higher.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hydrometer works similarly- it's just a marked glass tube that's weighted such that in water, it'll sit at 1.00.  If you put it in something denser than water (like wort, which is water with stuff in it), it'll sit a little higher out of the liquid, so it's at something like 1.050.  That number is the density* of the liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note is that hydrometers are calibrated to a specific temperature: 15˚C / 59˚F.  If your liquid is not that temperature, you want to run your measurement through a conversion chart to account for the change in density of liquids based on temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sample is water with stuff in it (i.e., wort).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2019-03-18T20:28:41.443" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T20:28:41.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="487" CreationDate="2010-11-13T16:30:31.033" Score="11" ViewCount="7620" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are aluminium pots acceptable as boil vessels?  They're cheap, but I've heard they can produce off-flavors.  Any experiences with them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2017-04-23T11:25:07.570" Title="Aluminium boil pots: Heresy or not?" Tags="|beer|equipment|boil|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="479" CreationDate="2010-11-13T17:26:14.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that I think makes using starters a lot easier is preparing a bunch of starter wort at one time, keeping quarts in canning jars and then when you are ready to make your starter, all it really takes is a clean vessel, your yeast and a jar of the wort. Making it so much easier will really encourage its use and as you point out, it is a big help to have a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So get a load of quart sized canning jars, make a 3 gallon batch of wort with extract, fill the jars, put them in a water bath in your brewkettle, bring to a boil to seal, let cool and stash in a convenient location. Next time you are brewing, pop one out a couple days before to make your starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T17:26:14.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="469" CreationDate="2010-11-13T18:15:18.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of options for fermenting in a single vessel that might not require an additional investment. It is fairly common to ferment in modified kegs, so if you have a keg around, you have the option of fermenting in a 15 gallon keg in a single batch. And somewhat less common, but my standard practice, is that I ferment in my brew kettle (chill in place, pitch yeast and use an O2 bottle and aquarium stone to aerate), also allowing you to ferment the full 10 gallons in one vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T18:15:18.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="483" CreationDate="2010-11-13T18:26:35.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an aluminum pot that used to be my boil kettle; now it's my hot liquor tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old thought was that it either caused off flavors or, even worse, contributed to Alzheimers. Neither is true. You can't use caustic cleaners on Aluminum, but otherwise it's safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BYO &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/projects-and-equipment/article/indices/20-build-it-yourself/1149-metallurgy-for-homebrewers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;covered all sorts of metals&lt;/a&gt; over on their site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alzheimers.org.uk/site/scripts/documents_info.php?documentID=99&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a link to the Alzheimer's Society about aluminum&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T18:26:35.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="483" CreationDate="2010-11-13T19:26:41.603" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My kettle is stainless, but the other kettle in our club is aluminum. We've brewed the same recipe in both kettles and not noticed any differences. You want to make sure that you keep a nice patina on the aluminum though, that's what keeps it non-reactive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T19:26:41.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="489" CreationDate="2010-11-13T19:39:23.480" Score="13" ViewCount="8015" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will scaling a recipe down to 1 gallon (i.e.: dividing the amount of each ingredient by 5) produce a pretty close approximation of the results of a full 5 gallon batch? Are there any additional considerations in brewing such a small batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to do some small experimental batches over the winter, using a 2-gallon stockpot on the stovetop instead of my usual brew kettle on an outdoor burner setup. I want to make sure they're pretty close to what a 5-gallon would end up like (esp. taste) so I can decide whether to go ahead with full batches of these recipes in the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T22:12:56.203" Title="Will scaling a recipe from 5 gallons to 1 gallon introduce significant differences?" Tags="|beer|procedure|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="488" CreationDate="2010-11-13T20:12:03.747" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, yes. Small batch brewing is great for what you're talking about experimenting with different ingredients, recipes, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They guys at Basic Brewing Radio do it all the time, and h&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/article/indices/18-brewing-science/1410-small-scale-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ere's a pretty good article from BYO&lt;/a&gt;, but in general the proportions of the ingredients should be the same. So, if the small batch is 3 pounds 2-row, and 2 pounds wheat, the 5-gallon batch should have 60% 2-row and 40% wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T12:32:42.213" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T12:32:42.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="505" CreationDate="2010-11-13T23:58:01.707" Score="33" ViewCount="40732" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to add fruit to a beer? I'm afraid boiling it will break down the fruit too much (a muslin bag could fix this I guess), but I'm not sure how to add it to the fermenter without contaminating the beer. I suppose this answer could depend on the fruit, too (bananas, blueberries, cranberries, oranges...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:45:47.683" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T16:31:55.650" Title="How to add fruit to beer" Tags="|beer|techniques|fruit|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="518" CreationDate="2010-11-14T00:05:12.640" Score="13" ViewCount="3000" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to sterilize things like dry hops, spices or fruit before putting them in the fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some stuff you can obviously boil. But boiling hops, say, would defeat the purpose of dry-hopping it seems. Yet adding straight dry hops to the fermenter seems like a good way to get contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:47:25.843" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:48:46.863" Title="How to add adjuncts (hops, fruit, spices, etc) to the fermenter without contaminating the beer?" Tags="|contamination|dry-hop|fermenter|adjuncts|sterilization|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2010-11-14T00:57:52.630" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you're doing really. Adding fruit can be risky as there is always a chance of contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made fruit beers before and didn't want to boil them and lose a bunch of flavor. So instead I opted to freeze the fruit, and then slowly thaw it out in the fridge. Now keep in mind that freezing will not guarantee no contamination, but it will reduce the risk. At this point I added it during secondary fermentation. This helps reduce the risk of contamination because all of the fermentable sugars have been eaten, and there's less in there for bad bugs to eat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really skiddish about adding raw fruit to your beer, but don't want to sacrifice much in the way of flavor, add your fruit during the last 5 minutes of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T00:57:52.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="491" CreationDate="2010-11-14T01:01:22.287" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about sterilizing the hops. If you practice good sanitation you shouldn't get contamination. I've dry hopped several beers with pellet hops strait out of the pouch and have never had contamination as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of new brewers worry about contaminating their beers. The truth is it is pretty hard to get a contamination, you almost have to try to give your beer one, or have horrible sanitation standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:48:23.717" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:48:23.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="491" CreationDate="2010-11-14T01:07:20.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fermented beer is resilient to contamination because it has several percent of alcohol inhibiting the bacterias from reproducing. Don't sweat it, you'll be fine. I never had any problems with dry hopping. I even put fresh fruit and peppers (unboiled) and it was still fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:48:46.863" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:48:46.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="469" CreationDate="2010-11-14T01:18:02.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use a 55 liter glass carboy (demijohn or dame jeanne). They can be hard to clean if you dry hop or if the wort still has a lot of proteins in suspension when it is being transfered. Look in your local classifieds to get one. They are cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i5MKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dame jeanne&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T01:18:02.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="618" CreationDate="2010-11-14T01:33:53.567" Score="6" ViewCount="3240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got some irregular sugar extraction efficiency problems. My efficiency is regularly low. I need your help. :) I get anywhere from 60% - 85%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've fine tuned my mill to the best of my ability, so I don't think that's much of a problem. I use a batch sparge method during the lautering process and I know fly sparging is probably a better way if I'm really concerned with efficiency. But I'm not really interested in doing that. Could grain bed channels be a problem even with batch sparging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any other methods that you'd recommend to increase consistency and efficiency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I use:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 gallon Igloo cooler MLT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Digital cable thermometer for monitoring mash temps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Single infusion batch sparge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:47:09.490" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:47:09.490" Title="What are some methods to increase extraction efficiency and consistency?" Tags="|beer|techniques|grain|efficiency|sparge|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2010-11-14T02:43:59.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are really worried about it, you could use fruit extract.  I've done that and wasn't crazy about the flavor.  I made a cherry wit a few weeks ago and I froze my cherries and thawed them in the fridge.  I then added them to a muslin bag at the same time I moved to secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T02:43:59.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="500" CreationDate="2010-11-14T03:05:56.923" Score="5" ViewCount="1601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Coleman 70 Quart Xtreme cooler that I've modified for my mash tun. I seem to be losing a lot of heat out the top. Are there any good ways to insulate it to help prevent heat loss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:47:36.183" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:47:36.183" Title="How do you insulate a cooler based mash tun?" Tags="|beer|equipment|mash|all-grain|temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="506" CreationDate="2010-11-14T03:07:09.890" Score="6" ViewCount="1774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a Shiraz from a kit early this spring (bottled in April). I also made a Johannesburg Riesling. I know reds take longer than whites to age, but we've been enjoying the Riesling for some time now (I have only one bottle left), while when I opened a Shiraz last week it was clearly not ready yet. Has anyone else done a Shiraz? How long did it take before it was good? How long before it was in its prime?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T06:24:13.097" Title="How long should a Shiraz age?" Tags="|wine|aging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="498" CreationDate="2010-11-14T03:35:59.467" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A towel on top helps prevent a lot of the heat loss. A plastic cooler, by itself, is pretty good insulation, though. In a single-infusion mash, you should only be losing a couple of degrees in an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T03:35:59.467" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2010-11-14T05:49:21.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get pretty good and consistent efficiency (82% - 85%) following these rules. Oh, and I also batch sparge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always do a protein rest.&#xA;Always do a mahout.&#xA;90 minute mash - always&#xA;Slightly thinner mash than normal. 1.5qt./lb.&#xA;10 minute sparge, double sparge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will end up with more wort to boil down, but it makes a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T05:49:21.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="503" CreationDate="2010-11-14T06:09:38.927" Score="4" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a recipe for a Baltic porter but would like to ferment it with a stran that produces distinct belgian flavors. The problem is that most of your belgian strains are too high attenuating. I'm wanting a strain that attenuates in the low 70%s but has great fruity esters and spicy phenols. Again, very Belgian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes I have considered mashing high and just using a Belgian yeast I'm familiar with, but I'd rather find a lower attenuating yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2010-11-14T17:52:13.487" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T22:07:04.043" Title="Looking for a relatively low attenuating yeast with distinct Belgian flavors." Tags="|beer|yeast|fermentation|attenuation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="502" CreationDate="2010-11-14T13:22:24.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glancing over the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew_strains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WYeast&lt;/a&gt; charts, it seems that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp410.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WLP410 Belgian Wit II&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=69&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WYeast 3944 - Belgian Witbier&lt;/a&gt; have the lowest attenuation with the flavor profile that you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only used  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp410.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WLP410 Belgian Wit II&lt;/a&gt; though, so that would be my recommendation. It sounds like an interesting beer :) Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T13:22:24.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="498" CreationDate="2010-11-14T13:35:58.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to test for leaks around the hinges. I had some warping on a cooler there that I used to bring to the beech. Pour some water in it, go outside, flip it over and hold the top on tight. If there are leaks, then you will probably want to put some foam adhesive strip around the lip of the cooler. Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/#q=scotch+foam+tape&amp;amp;tbs=shop:1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scotch Foam Tape&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But Nick and swgill definitely have the simplest solution. And it always handy to have a towel. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T13:35:58.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2010-11-14T14:12:42.130" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;You generally want to add fruit to the secondary fermentation.  At this point, you already have alcohol that can help ward off any meanies hiding in your fruit.  I am having trouble finding a source for this but I remember from a course I took that adding fruit to the primary will add more fruit smell and secondary would add more flavor.  The smell part might be wrong but adding during the secondary definitely imparts more flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as sanitation before hand, you have a few options.  Give the fruit a rinse and any prep it needs (cubing, peeling, etc) and decide whether you would like to heating it, freeze it, or just add it.  They all have their own downsides.  Obviously just adding it has the biggest risk of infection, but I have done it successfully with great results.  Freezing is an option (and I usually do this to allow me to save some fruit for later if I want to do multiple additions) but I don't think it actually kills all of the meanies, just puts them into hibernation.  Heating for 10 minutes or so should be good.  The downside to &lt;em&gt;boiling&lt;/em&gt; is that you will have pectins, which will create a hazy beer.  Which is fine if you are making a wheat anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T14:12:42.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="499" CreationDate="2010-11-14T16:25:20.647" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's honestly a matter of taste. A lot of wines are good young. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A younger shiraz (3 months aging) is going to be pretty fruity and very bright tasting. Something reminiscent of a Beaujolais nouveau, just a little deeper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the six month mark some of that frutiness will dial down and blend in with more of a floral aroma/taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Year old shiraz tends to be more intensified. The flavors become more focused and lean hard on dark/dried fruit notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So once again. It just kind of depends on how you like your shiraz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T16:25:20.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2010-11-14T16:39:03.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always just added the fruit to secondary.  I cleaned the fruit, but did not boil it or otherwise try to sanitize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alcohol content in the beer (which will be present when adding the fruit in secondary) should make it difficult for the little buggers to grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had some issues with infection, especially when doing this with strawberries.  These issues have come about after a couple of months, though, so if you drink it quickly, it should be fine.  Essentially, you get a shorter shelf-life, but if you enjoy your creation soon after making it, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T16:39:03.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="491" CreationDate="2010-11-14T16:46:41.353" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The risk of contamination is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; lower after primary fermentation is complete, since there is alcohol present.  The alcohol will prevent or retard the growth of bacteria and rogue yeasts.  So, you should be safe to just add your adjuncts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some fruits (strawberries especially), I have noticed that the beer seems to spoil after a month or so, presumably from some rogue yeast on the berries that eventually took hold.  The beer was great before that happened, so I'd just suggest drinking it quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, people have been brewing for centuries without knowledge of microorganisms, including yeast.  I always remind myself of that fact when I start to worry too much about the technicalities of brewing.  I also remind myself to &amp;quot;Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew!&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:47:44.157" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:47:44.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="514" CreationDate="2010-11-14T17:56:31.563" Score="9" ViewCount="1116" Body="&lt;p&gt;What, if anything, should you do differently when brewing a high-gravity beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T08:48:22.333" Title="What should be done differently for high-gravity beers?" Tags="|beer|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="522" CreationDate="2010-11-14T18:25:03.697" Score="32" ViewCount="60675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find myself baking a couple loaves of bread just about every weekend. Has anyone tried reusing their yeast from brewing for baking bread? I've heard that using some of the spent grain in bread recipes works well, but I'm curious if brewing yeasts are significantly different from those used baking that it would produce some not-so-great tasting bread?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2012-02-29T03:01:47.263" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T17:50:30.283" Title="Brewing Solid Things: Can Leftover Yeast Be Used for Bread?" Tags="|yeast|bread|reuse|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="512" CreationDate="2010-11-14T19:10:35.200" Score="8" ViewCount="1928" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a blonde ale with extract a little over a month ago.  I fermented in primary for three weeks and have been bottle-conditioning for two weeks.  I didn't take an OG, but the final gravity before bottling was 1.011 (exactly what the recipe called for).  I cracked one open this morning to give it a taste, and while it's good, it has a distinct, syrupy taste similar to green apples.  Any ideas what might have caused this?  Is this a taste which will likely mellow out with time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="148" LastEditorUserId="123" LastEditDate="2010-11-14T20:48:50.163" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T20:48:50.163" Title="My beer tastes like green apples." Tags="|beer|bottle-conditioning|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="511" CreationDate="2010-11-14T19:26:32.480" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Green apple flavor is called &lt;strong&gt;Acetaldehyde&lt;/strong&gt;. It's one of the off-flavors that can dissipate over time, though it can be caused from a bacteria that won't go away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would certainly wait awhile to see if the flavor dissipates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrgoodbeer.com/apple.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sources here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T19:26:32.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="511" CreationDate="2010-11-14T19:27:45.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Green apple taste can be caused by acetaldehyde, which will generally mellow out over time.  Iirc, it's a middle-compound between sugar and alcohol that the yeast still needs to work on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T19:27:45.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="509" CreationDate="2010-11-14T20:05:43.633" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, make an appropriately sized starter! Pitching a regular old vial into something like a 1.090 beer is a good way to overstress the yeast and get lots of undesirable esters, and have a beer that didn't finish out completely.  Jamil has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/pitching.php&quot;&gt;helpful writeup on pitching rates and a pitching rate calculator&lt;/a&gt; that will help you size a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, pick a yeast that is known to handle the higher alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, make sure your aeration step is solid.  Your beer will need to be well aerated to ferment out completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T20:05:43.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="488" CreationDate="2010-11-14T21:00:54.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most things will scale just fine linearly, the exception being hop utilization.  Wort gravity has an effect on utilization; the higher the gravity the lower the utilization. This is why extract brewers who don't do a full wort boil get less utilization that a full wort boil; the gravity of the wort during boil is higher (they then add water after boil to dilute to target gravity).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if going from 5 to 1 gallon will have a significant effect, but you can play with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/ibu-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this calculator&lt;/a&gt; to see what happens.  Many brewing software programs can do this for you.  Unfortunately all of these are only methods to estimate the final IBUs. The only way to determine actual IBUs is to have a lab measure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastEditorUserId="123" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T06:33:42.290" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T06:33:42.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="510" CreationDate="2010-11-14T21:56:11.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't particularly like adding much spent grain to bread recipes, it makes the bread too heavy IMO.  However, using brewing yeast, either fresh or from a slurry is a great addition.  I generally add at least 50% bakers yeast though, it helps the dough to rise quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T21:56:11.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="498" CreationDate="2010-11-14T22:02:22.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking you must have some sort of leak or crack in your cooler.  I use one of those orange home depot coolers and it maintains a very consistent temp while mashing.  Maybe try filling it up with hot water and see if the outside springs any leaks.  If the top doesn't fit properly, maybe try a layer of that spongy tape along the rim and a weight on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cooler I use is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/Outdoors/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg1ZaqpeZbwo59/R-202260809/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&amp;amp;storeId=10051&amp;amp;catalogId=10053&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, btw.  You can unscrew off the spigot and screw in a valve really easily as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T22:02:22.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="491" CreationDate="2010-11-14T22:14:21.553" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only is there alcohol that will stave off some of the nasties like other responses have mentioned.  But hops themselves have antibiotic properties which help your yeast get an edge over the bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as fruit type adjuncts, if you want to play it safe, you don't actually have to boil them.  Just put them in a pot and raise them to 160F for ten minutes or more.  That will kill the bacteria and yeast that could be present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T22:14:21.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2010-11-14T22:16:53.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find I can up my efficiency if I only use one gallon batches, and let each one sit for about 10 minutes.  Mashing takes forever though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T22:16:53.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="483" CreationDate="2010-11-15T00:04:21.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say make the investment and go with stainless. Aluminum is weaker and less elastic than steel, so it will deform faster, especially on an electric stove (where the heat and pressure come from the same source, which has a small surface area). Good aluminum cookware (if it exists) probably wouldn't have this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T00:04:21.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-15T01:09:25.220" Score="8" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a hydrometer is great for most people, but the geek in me would like to know the exact alcohol content of my brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the process, titration? And what chemicals would I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T04:20:54.857" Title="Calculating the exact alcohol volume" Tags="|hydrometer|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="510" CreationDate="2010-11-15T01:43:34.017" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bread yeast is designed to produce huge amounts of CO2 to aid in rising. Beer yeast is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this is not to say that you CAN'T use brewing yeast, but you will get a more dense bread. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guys at Basic Brewing did an experiment brewing a pale ale with bread yeast and baking bread with Safale-05. They said the bread came out tasting like... bread. But keep in mind that Safale-05 is pretty neutral strain. Your more funky strains will probably end up in more funky bread.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=trading-places-beer-and-bread-yeast&quot;&gt;Here's the link to the video.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T01:43:34.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="483" CreationDate="2010-11-15T02:39:04.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck with an aluminium pot (a turkey fryer in my case).  The pot was big and since it was something that I already owned, it was a solid piece of brewing equipment.  We upgraded to a stainless steel pot only b/c we had a close friend that would not drink our homebrew b/c of Alzheimers fears with aluminium.  Since brewing is all about sharing with us, we upgraded.  I'm not sure what you have/need for brewing equipment, but I would not recommend upgrading your pot before getting some more important brewing pieces (i.e. secondary, temp control, yeast starter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T02:39:04.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-15T02:49:14.813" Score="32" ViewCount="26844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend that is allergic to hops and can not drink our beer (or just about any others for that matter).  What alternatives do I have if I want to make a beer for him?  What could I substitute for bittering?  What would my options be for aroma and flavoring hop alternatives?  If I could even just get a bittering component into the beer, I would have&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T02:52:49.033" LastActivityDate="2023-11-02T23:18:49.733" Title="What are some alternatives to hops?" Tags="|beer|hops|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="531" CreationDate="2010-11-15T03:43:01.300" Score="3" ViewCount="2240" Body="&lt;p&gt;Particularly during lautering and during a boil, I have a hard time keeping track of water/wort volume.  What method(s) and equipment do you all recommend for accurately calculating liquid volume during a boil/water heating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="148" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T10:40:35.350" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T13:50:37.393" Title="What are some popular methods for measuring boil and HLT volume?" Tags="|beer|equipment|boil|lauter|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="521" CreationDate="2010-11-15T04:20:54.857" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obligatory Disclaimer:  Though I do have &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; formal education, I am by no means a professional chemist, so please take my answer for what it is - semi-educated speculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you hinted, back titration is a popular method of determining alcohol content in alcoholic beverages, especially wine.  It would make sense that a similar approach could be used for calculating the alcohol content in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethyl alcohol has a boiling point of 78.4C.  With this knowledge, you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; try something like the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring an amount of your original liquid to just under 78C and measure volume.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring the liquid to a steady ~79C, wait 15 minutes, and re-measure volume.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compare the original and final volumes to determine the amount of ethyl alcohol burned off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're aiming for high accuracy, keep in mind that you'll need to adjust the normal boiling point temperature for altitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also of note is that you'll need to correct your final volume measurement to account for expansion due to the change in liquid temperature from room temperature to ~79C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you could also just save yourself the trouble and buy a nice refractometer - many of them actually provide an alcohol content measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="148" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T04:20:54.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="524" CreationDate="2010-11-15T04:25:32.503" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll want to take a look at brewing Gruit, a style of beer brewed with herbs in place of hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I haven't had any practical experience brewing a Gruit but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gruitale.com/recipes_en.htm&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; has a few recipes you could use as a starting point, good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T04:25:32.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2010-11-15T04:41:57.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another tip for achieving consistency when batch sparging is to set yourself a &quot;water budget&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do this by calculating your system losses (HLT deadspace, MT deadspace, loss to hoses, loss to trub etc.) and adding them to your desired pre-boil wort volume. Add this amount of water to your HLT at the start of your brew day and don't add another drop throughout the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Providing your other variables (grain crush, batch sparging method, etc.) are consistent between brews you should achieve the same results every time using this technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T04:41:57.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="524" CreationDate="2010-11-15T06:13:23.137" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a beer a while back in which I substituted tea for hops. Tea seems to have similar properties in that if you boil for a long time, you'll get bitterness, and less time will give you flavor and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result was interesting (I used green tea and a bud light clone recipe because I wanted to make sure I tasted the tea). In hindsight, the tea flavor was fairly robust and could have stood up to a stronger beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T06:13:23.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="524" CreationDate="2010-11-15T06:55:36.373" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend the book &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381667&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sacred and Herbal Healing Beers&lt;/a&gt;.  Don't let the name put you off,  it's packed with lots of useful historical information on brewing before the advent of hop usage.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1580170102&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Homebrewer's Garden&lt;/a&gt; is also a good book on this subject, and a bit more succinct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yarrow is good for bittering, and grows wild throughout the US.  It can be more of an 'upper' compared to hops, which have a sedative effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Artemesia vulgaris, aka mugwort, is a good bittering option and was used extensively before hops gained prominence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Artemesia absinthia, aka wormwood, the signature ingredient in absinthe, is powerfully bitter, and somewhat controversial as an ingredient.  I once made a tea out of it to test it's bitterness ,and... goddamn.  Bitter, bitter stuff.  Use caution with this one, since it contains a supposed neurotoxin, thujone, which is also cited for the magic 'green fairy' effect of absinthe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an aroma addition, there are lots of options.  Moonlight brewing makes an interesting spruce tip beer.  Juniper berries can also be used.  You could do a wit-like beer with coriander, orange peel and pinch of chamomile for aroma additions.  Maybe focus on yeast estery styles, such as saison, belgians, hefeweizen, etc. that don't call for a strong hop flavor and aroma addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Many of these brewing herbs can be bought from &lt;a href=&quot;http://breworganic.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Seven Bridges&lt;/a&gt; online.  &lt;/strike&gt; The Yelp listing says they have closed (assuming this was the brewing supply store in Santa Cruz, CA.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastEditorUserId="16361" LastEditDate="2018-10-19T16:58:47.893" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T16:58:47.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="525" CreationDate="2010-11-15T07:11:42.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most things I just use my trusty stick, otherwise known as a thin dowel from the hardware store.  Pour one gallon into your pot, stand stick in pot, note water line, and mark with a sharpie or other implement.  The curvature of a pot can affect the height of each tick mark, so I usually experimentally measure a few more gallons until I'm at the straight sides of the pot, then extrapolate the distance between each tick mark to mark off the remaining gallons up to 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't work so well at full boil, with the bubbling and rolling and general chaos going on at the surface.  In that situation, the best method I've seen is a pre-calibrated sight gauge attached to the kettle. The liquid on the sight gauge tends not to boil, thus allowing you to get a decent reading.  The downside of measuring during boil is hot liquid expansion, so always note that your wort will compress a bit after cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T07:11:42.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="510" CreationDate="2010-11-15T14:33:52.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried it once.  The bread was &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; dense.  I put me in mind of Terry Pratchett's dwarf bread. It was useless for the fine art of sammichery, but worked well for hors d'oeuvres. (Herrings, strong cheese).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T14:33:52.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="481" CreationDate="2010-11-15T14:48:56.077" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good Answer by Fishtoaster.&#xA;The science is ancient, discovered by Archimedes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: &lt;em&gt;Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, if you put a ball, with volume 1 litre completely under water, there is an upwards force on the ball (buoyancy or flotation) equal to the weight of 1 litre of water. (i.e. 1 kilogram-force or 9.81 Newtons) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: (Corollary) &lt;em&gt;Any floating object displaces its own weight of fluid.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we place a &lt;strong&gt;floating&lt;/strong&gt; object of mass 1 kilo, it will displace exactly 1 kilo of water, or 1 litre of water.  If the volume of our object is greater than 1 litre (i.e. the object is less dense than water), it will float.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, with a Hydrometer, it is weighted such that the weight of the submerged volume at the 1.000 reading is exactly equal to the weight of the hydrometer.  If we dissolve solids into the water (sugar) that volume of water is heavier, and less of it needs to be displaced in order for the hydrometer's weight to be matched, and the Hydrometer floats higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2014-01-21T13:53:28.370" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T13:53:28.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="524" CreationDate="2010-11-15T15:15:40.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beerhunter.com/documents/19133-000106.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;heather&lt;/a&gt; being used, though never used it myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T15:15:40.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="536" CreationDate="2010-11-15T18:01:37.823" Score="5" ViewCount="1860" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about brewing a barleywine. A recipe that looks interesting to me uses Magnum and Horizon hops, but I don't have access to either at my (small) local brewing store. What are some good high-alpha alternatives for a barleywine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T18:02:39.443" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T15:13:55.343" Title="What is a good alternative to Magnum hops in a barleywine?" Tags="|beer|hops|barleywine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="535" CreationDate="2010-11-15T18:04:52.047" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always use this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew365.com/hop_substitution_chart.php&quot;&gt;hop substitution chart&lt;/a&gt;, but there are others available too. According to it, Horizon and Newport are substitutions for Magnum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Galena, Nugget, and Fuggle are substitutions for Newport, so you could try that too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, it lists Magnum as a substitute for Columbus, which might be easier to find. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/resources/hops&quot;&gt;BYO chart&lt;/a&gt; suggests Northern Brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, for a barleywine I think you'll be happy with any of those, as the style doesn't feature hops. You're mainly using the hops to balance the barleywine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T18:04:52.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="510" CreationDate="2010-11-15T18:24:59.377" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know people who do this all the time and their breads are very good, never too dense.  You have to remember to treat it like sourdough though.  Sourdough yeast takes a long time to rise bread (between 6 and 12 hours) and beer yeast performs very similarly.  The &quot;heaviness&quot; or &quot;denseness&quot; all of the other posts refer to is simply because they did not give the bread enough time to rise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question, no, you can't take a baker's yeast recipe and substitute beer yeast in for it and get the same result, but if you follow sourdough recipes, you will be very pleasantly surprised, especially if you're making more rustic type breads like French breads and ciabatta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comment PMV made about using bakers yeast with it is another shortcut you can use to make bread with your beer yeast, a lot of sourdough bakers do that all of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an interesting &lt;a href=&quot;http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/618118&quot;&gt;thread on Chowhound&lt;/a&gt; that discusses using beer yeast to make bread, and even harvesting beer yeast from bottles to make bread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T18:34:06.857" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T18:34:06.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="354" CreationDate="2010-11-15T22:10:46.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another great source where my parents buy most of their stuff is at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;midwestsupplies.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T22:10:46.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="488" CreationDate="2010-11-15T22:12:56.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently brew at a 1.5 gal system. The big things I noticed moving from a 10 gallon rig were the changes in brew house efficiency and hop utilization. The dead loss at the bottom of your mash tun and kettle will be more pronounced. Longer sparging and whirlpooling are suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T22:12:56.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="547" CreationDate="2010-11-15T22:14:05.457" Score="13" ViewCount="9288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to start my second attempt at making an IPA. My first did not turn out anything like an IPA. It was much darker than I expected (I may have burnt it a little) and did not really have the strong hop aroma that is typical in an IPA. It was still a pretty drinkable and enjoyable beer however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd like to know is of any tips to get a good hop flavor and aroma. Any tips on how to keep to the style. And any other tips anyone familiar with this style may have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T22:24:53.847" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T08:21:38.750" Title="Why is my IPA not hoppy enough?" Tags="|beer|hops|ipa|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="543" CreationDate="2010-11-15T22:15:36.813" Score="5" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard mentions of people using tertiary, quaternary, quinary, etc fermentations.  Does this really provide any significant benefit beyond secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:48:49.833" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:48:49.833" Title="Post-Secondary Fermentation" Tags="|beer|cider|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="545" CreationDate="2010-11-15T22:19:13.140" Score="4" ViewCount="2298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently brew all-grain using a 7.5 gallon pot on a propane burner outside at a house I currently rent. However, I'm planning to move within the year to an apartment in the city and likely won't have the space to do outdoor brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an effective way to do full boils without a propane burner? Is a gas stove absolutely required or are there other ways to do it (multiple burners, etc)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:49:09.630" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T18:05:50.763" Title="Is it possible to do full boils without a propane burner?" Tags="|beer|techniques|boil|full-boil|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="541" CreationDate="2010-11-15T22:19:17.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this same answer applies here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/68/whats-the-point-of-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;What's the point of secondary fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of n-ary isn't more fermentation, but aging, clarifying, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for me, no it doesn't provide any additional benefit. The only time I use a secondary vessel is for fruit additions or extended aging. I've never found a need for a third vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T22:19:17.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="548" CreationDate="2010-11-15T22:19:25.610" Score="12" ViewCount="8059" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a mint chocolate stout. I've made it before; I added 1.5 ounces of fresh spearmint to the last 10 or 15 minutes of the boil. It turned out alright, but it's not as strong as I'd like. The obvious answer would be to add more mint. But before I make it again, I'd like to utilize your collective experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When is the best time to add mint without imparting off flavors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I add it to secondary? (Last time I scooped it out before fermenting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of mint would go best with the roasted malt notes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T07:52:33.130" Title="How should I add mint to my beer?" Tags="|spices|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2010-11-15T22:22:30.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look into a &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/pcalinsk/HeatStk3.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;heat stick&lt;/a&gt; (that's one of the original writeups, but there are plenty of new ones now, too). It might be just enough to supplement your burners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T22:22:30.517" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="544" CreationDate="2010-11-15T22:23:24.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered making an extract from your mint using vodka? It would give you a lot of control over how minty your stout ends up. When you're ready to bottle you can take a small sample of the beer and add the mint extract until the flavor profile is what you're looking for. Then you just scale the amount up for the whole batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T22:23:24.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2010-11-15T22:24:04.063" Score="13" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Hop Primer:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops have two purposes in beer*: bittering, and hops flavor/aroma.  The key thing is that when your'e boiling hops in hot wort, the flavor/aroma compounds will get boiled off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, hops added early in the boil won't contribute much to a hoppy flavor, since they spend more time boiling- hence why they're called 'bittering hops'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops added later, though, will increase the hop flavor and aroma, since they spend less time in the boiling wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;To increase hop flavor:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add hops later in the boil, often in the last 15 minutes of the boil.  Usually your recipe should guide hops addition times, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be sure to stop the boil on time.  Letting it go another 10 minutes while you prepare other things will significantly decrease the hop flavor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/05/21/dry-hopping-enhanced-hops-aroma/&quot;&gt;'Dry-Hopping'&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*They used to be preservatives as well, but that doesn't matter these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T22:24:04.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="544" CreationDate="2010-11-15T22:27:19.403" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding mint during the boil is good, but the problem is that you'll lose a lot of the mint aroma during primary fermentation as the C02 carries it out the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that comes to mind would be to create a mint extract (soak the mint in vodka) and add that to your secondary. You can, of course, add the mint directly to the secondary, but you won't see as much flavor imparted as you would with an extract, and you'd need to remove it after a week or so before the leaves break down (resulting in potential grassy off-flavors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering how well peppermint pairs with dark chocolate, I'd be inclined to use that over something like spearmint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T22:27:19.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-15T22:41:51.170" Score="14" ViewCount="1246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to solve the &quot;wife who loves wine instead of beer&quot; problem.  She would normally choose a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sauvignon_blanc&quot;&gt;Sauvignon blanc&lt;/a&gt; for herself but that's just no fun for the beer-drinking / making husband.  My goal is to create a beer that draws parallels in her mind to the wine style without struggling to reproduce wine in beer form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of the characteristics that I'm striving for as they match her purchasing history of largely North American wines (quoting Wikipedia):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The New Zealand influenced-Sauvignon&#xA;  blanc have more tropical fruit&#xA;  undertones with citrus and passion&#xA;  fruit notes. The Mondavi-influenced&#xA;  Fumé Blanc are more round with melon&#xA;  notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, bitterness is quite low in these wines.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I'm not trying to create a beer that pretends to be wine but it's an interesting challenge to try to create a parallel and potential replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best recipe to create such a parallel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT for clarification to call out some specific characteristics that are similar to Sauvignon blanc:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The desired recipe would produce a dry end-product.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The aroma and taste would include subtle hints of fruit (suggestions above).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bitterness should be low.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g., one of the answers contains a suggestion of a specific hop that can produce Sauvignon blanc-like characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="171" LastEditorUserId="171" LastEditDate="2010-11-16T02:20:17.913" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T21:46:13.830" Title="What is the best beer to make for a spouse who prefers sauvignon blanc?" Tags="|beer|wine|recipe|" AnswerCount="17" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2010-11-15T22:56:38.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clearly a drier fruit-based beer would probably be appealing, since wine is so heavy on the fruit flavors. Something like a peach white ale, or pear lager. I'd ferment the malt to near exhaustion to keep it potent and dry, but add some honey or another partially fermenting sugar to keep some sweetness to draw out the fruit flavors. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T22:56:38.307" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2010-11-15T23:06:16.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have gotten full boils on my (gas) kitchen stove.  I do have to straddle my kettle over two burners, but the kettle is so large that it fits over two burners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T23:06:16.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2010-11-15T23:07:18.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can even brew inside on a plain gas stove, depending on your pot.  When I lived in overseas and didn't have my propane gear, I used the stock-standard gas stove/oven with four small burners like you see in many houses in the USA.  (Older houses, that is, not newer ones with big stove-tops and wide-spaced burners.)  My pot, which was about the same size as yours, straddled two of the burners.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used an aluminum pot specifically because its heat distribution and transfer are better than stainless steel, and with just the two small stove burners, I did full 6+ gallon boils, boiling down to 5 gallons.  But you have to make sure you use a pot wide enough to straddle the burners; tall, narrow ones won't cut it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration if you do that, though:  Humidity control.  There was a LOT of moisture coming off of there.  In one place I fortunately had a window right there at the stove, and I rigged a small attic exhaust fan on a piece of plywood that fit right into the double-hung window.  That was enough to really get the steam out.  Typical stove hoods didn't pull enough air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calvin Perilloux, Middletown, Maryland, USA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T23:07:18.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="483" CreationDate="2010-11-15T23:17:41.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used an aluminum pot for years.  Admittedly, it is not as structurally strong as steel, but a decent gauge aluminum pot in the sizes we're talking about will NOT deform under the heat of brewing, even after a decade or more.  (Don't do this with an industrial-sized 30-bbl kettle.)  The thinnest ones that come with some turkey fryers are quite dentable -- but so are some stock pots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't use caustic cleaners on aluminum, so beware of that.  But it's the boil pot, so it doesn't have to be spotless to be sanitary, and a white scrubby takes off any goop that won't come off with a hot water rinse.  Aluminum oxidizes so rapidly that you'd be hard pressed to scrub it and then brew soon enough to get any dissolved in before the oxide layer forms.  (Yeah, you could scour it under nitrogen or CO2... but who would?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Alzheimers, not only does the relationship not seem to be causal after much research, but you can't get much if any aluminum on the beer from the pot.  Anyone worrying about that better be drinking RO water and avoiding Maalox and some other antacids like the plague!  Oh, and don't eat out, either, since aluminum pots are everywhere in restaurants, and for good reason, given the good heat conductance and lightness of that metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-07-09T21:36:37.403" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T21:36:37.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="483" CreationDate="2010-11-15T23:18:40.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If using an aluminum turkey fryer, make sure it hasn't been used for, you know, frying a turkey in the past. I made that mistake once (trust me, I cleaned the heck out of this thing before starting) and I'll never do it again. You'll end up with the worst tasting beer you've ever tried. It was a tried and true recipe for me, so I knew it would have ended up great. It may have been the aluminum that gave it the off flavor, but I'm thinking it was leftover turkey-frying residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I use all stainless steel, and you can't go wrong there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T23:18:40.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="557" CreationDate="2010-11-15T23:19:54.437" Score="14" ViewCount="39568" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many batches ago I abandoned the sanitizing solutions sold (at ridiculous markups) from standard homebrew stores in favor of OxiClean Free.  My logic at the time (being out of sanitizer, and at a grocery store) was that the active ingredient in OxiClean was sodium percarbonate, and the active ingredient in One Step was &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; sodium percarbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't had a skunked batch yet, but inductive reasoning doesn't always lead you to the truth - so what is the general consensus on OxiClean as the sole equipment sanitizer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="177" LastEditorUserId="240" LastEditDate="2010-11-16T22:01:56.440" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T06:21:13.833" Title="Can OxiClean be used as a sanitizer?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|oxiclean|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2010-11-15T23:28:29.977" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can source it consider brewing a light coloured, dry ale (or better still a clean lager) late hopped with Nelson Sauvin from New Zealand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hop imparts some similar characteristics to Sauvignon Blanc wines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a locally brewed lager (Knappstein Reserve) that uses this hop and I can attest that many of my non beer drinking friends will drink and enjoy this beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T23:28:29.977" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="555" CreationDate="2010-11-15T23:31:10.443" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxiclean isn't a sanitizer, it's a cleaner. You can see here for the difference (&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/180/what-is-the-difference-between-clean-sanitized-and-sterilized&quot;&gt;What is the difference between Clean, Sanitized and Sterilized?&lt;/a&gt;). If you're fairly clean it might not matter, but using oxiclean will not kill bacteria; it will only remove a fair amount of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I believe you're close; the brewery cleaners and oxyclean (free) do have the same active ingredient. There is one major difference, however, and that is that the cleaners made for breweries are no-rinse (when used in the correct concentration). Oxyclean requires a rinse after use. That's what you're paying the extra for, the ability to use it without re-introducing bacteria from your local water supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use oxyclean in a pinch, but I always sanitize with StarSan afterwards. I'll also use oxyclean to clean labels off of bottles, etc. But, again, I always rinse afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T23:31:10.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="562" CreationDate="2010-11-16T00:23:03.097" Score="3" ViewCount="3237" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a continuation to my &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/80/sloe-wine-going-very-slowly&quot;&gt;previous question about a very slow fermentation&lt;/a&gt; of sloe wine, I think my demijohn is just too cold where it is. I haven't taken readings - I'm still fuzzy on how - but judging by its activity I'm sure there's plenty of sugar left and not too much alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody suggest a safe way of warming it up, without it getting hot enough to harm the yeast? It's too big to fit in the microwave. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it's warmed up, I assume it will keep its heat for a while? I know after boiling the fruit up, it took until morning before it was even cool enough to add the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T18:16:50.943" Title="Warming up a demijohn / carboy" Tags="|yeast|techniques|temperature|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="558" CreationDate="2010-11-16T00:43:31.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One suggestion I've heard is just to insulate the demijohn/carboy, since the yeast action should give off some amount of heat over time.  You can try wrapping it in towels and/or blankets, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T00:43:31.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="366" CreationDate="2010-11-16T01:41:10.003" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hopville&lt;/a&gt; lets you save recipes... it's not just a source of them, I often find that I can't find &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the ingredients in a recipe. Also it will guesstimate Initial and Final gravity, color and other useful information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastEditorUserId="183" LastEditDate="2013-06-30T19:33:44.083" LastActivityDate="2013-06-30T19:33:44.083" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-16T01:41:10.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="563" CreationDate="2010-11-16T01:49:44.287" Score="8" ViewCount="11507" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from the fact that they're two different types of grain, how do the two malted grains differ in terms of their effects in beer such as flavor, body, head, etc. &lt;strong&gt;when used as base malts&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2010-11-16T01:57:59.783" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T20:30:52.893" Title="How does malted wheat differ from malted barley?" Tags="|beer|grain|malt|barley|wheat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="558" CreationDate="2010-11-16T02:06:06.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things on fermentation....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Airlock activity &lt;strong&gt;is not&lt;/strong&gt; an indication of fermentation. Just because you don't see bubbles and a hear a gurgling airlock does not mean that your wine is not fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To take readings you need a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydrometer.&lt;/a&gt; A hydrometer measures a liquids gravity (or density). Liquid is more dense with sugar, and less with out. As yeast eats sugar and creates alcohol the gravity (or density) lowers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When first making your wine you should have taken a gravity reading. Then, read it again week, 2 weeks, 3 weeks... whatever later and see how it's fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that being said yeast does not like sudden changes in temperature. It stresses them out and makes for unhealthy yeast. And unhealthy yeast makes for poor fermentation. If you want to warm them up then do it &lt;strong&gt;SLOWLY.&lt;/strong&gt; Raise the ambient temperature of wherever you're fermenting by 1 degree a day. No more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what temperature are you fermenting? You really shouldn't need to be fermenting any higher than the 65 - 70 range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise against wrapping your carboy. Fermentation is an exothermic process. That means that it gives off heat. Inside your fermentation vessel it could be 5 - 10 degrees warmer than outside. Wrapping your vessel is a quick way to stress out the yeast as the vessel could heat up more on the inside than you intend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the book. Just wanted to be thorough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="2788" LastEditDate="2016-11-08T18:16:50.943" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T18:16:50.943" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="561" CreationDate="2010-11-16T02:16:47.620" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming we're dealing with just basic malted wheat, and plain ol' 2-row malted barley...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your malted barley has a clean smooth lightly malted flavor. It has enough diastic power to convert itself and other adjuncts, up to 10% of it's own weight. It is relatively low in protein, and easy to mash with a single infusion. Barley can be used for 100% of a mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Malted wheat is going to have a slightly sweeter taste. It should only be used for up to 50% of a grain bill, and typically needs to be mashed in the presence of other grains to help in lautering and prevent stuck mashes.. Wheat malt can make for a sticky mash that is hard to lauter, and makes for a very slow run off. If I brew with more than 25% of malt for my grain bill I always throw in rice hulls to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In homebrewing using wheat as a base malt is a pretty big pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T02:16:47.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="558" CreationDate="2010-11-16T02:23:45.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A buddy has successfully heat up some bottles for carbonation using a microwave heat pad and blankets for insulation. I have a feeling it may hurt the yeast if you provide too much heat at once while fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T02:23:45.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="566" CreationDate="2010-11-16T02:28:23.670" Score="10" ViewCount="53306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up some rootbeer extract at my local brewshop, and I've made a few batches in old soda bottles... but is it possible brew it with an alcohol content similar to that of beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T21:49:16.850" Title="How would I make Alcoholic Rootbeer?" Tags="|extract|alcohol-content|root-beer|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="565" CreationDate="2010-11-16T03:52:40.107" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making a (good) hard root beer sounds tricky.  At least, the traditional method of brewing root beer doesn't seem like it would scale well to the weeks-of-fermentation beer brewing model.  I imagine in the end, while you would have higher alcohol content, too much of the sugar will have been fermented, so you'd end up with a few gallons of not very sweet liquid (e.g., not root beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One approach might be to start with a base fermentable (maybe some sort of wheat/pale dry malt extract combined with honey) that had a light profile in tandem with traditional root beer extract, replace/enhance traditional hops additions with herbs specific to root beer brewing, reach your target gravity, and add heaps of sugar prior to bottling for desired sweetness.  From here, you could bottle and pasteurize to stop the yeast from eating all the added sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all this said, the easy solution (which might yield tastier results) is to start with your favorite homemade root beer recipe and pour in copious amounts of your favorite distilled beverage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go the route of experimentation, be sure to share any successful recipes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="148" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T03:52:40.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="541" CreationDate="2010-11-16T05:46:33.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of having a tertiary phase if you add fruit (etc.) to the beer during the secondary, to help precipitate out the fruit particles before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T05:46:33.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2870" CreationDate="2010-11-16T08:45:31.663" Score="3" ViewCount="5058" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone to share recipes and experience on brewing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boza&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boza&lt;/a&gt; beverage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T17:25:37.997" LastActivityDate="2019-10-31T03:35:04.037" Title="Boza beverage recipes and experiences?" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="145" CreationDate="2010-11-16T11:42:04.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To give more localised advice, there's &lt;a href=&quot;http://widcombehomebrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a small Homebrew shop at the bottom of Widcombe Hill&lt;/a&gt; in Bath, if you ever happen to be in Bath (Their website is very unfinished, however). The other supplier I know of is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the-home-brew-shop.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;, based near Farnborough, Hampshire, where I was on placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T11:42:04.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="558" CreationDate="2010-11-16T13:23:12.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a carboy heater. I got it from the local homebrew store. But I agree with Matt measure first and get some data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/80W2I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Carboy heater&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T13:23:12.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="573" CreationDate="2010-11-16T14:07:49.210" Score="9" ViewCount="20133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a recipe that calls for an ounce of hops at 0 mins. boil time, any idea what you would do here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, after a my 60 minute partial boil is complete, I take the pot off of the stove immediately, remove  the hop bag from the wort (which contains all the hop pellets), and put in my wort chiller to cool down the wort immediately. So I don't really have a 0 minute boil time ... unless I put the hops in the hop bag just for a couple seconds or so just before removing, and if I did do that, I don't know that it would really be long enough to have any effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="195" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T13:44:23.327" Title="What does a 0 minute boil time mean?" Tags="|beer|boil|wort|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="571" CreationDate="2010-11-16T14:48:30.563" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means putting an addition of hops at flameout, or when you turn off the kettle. Those late addition hops can add hop aroma and some nice flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't take your hops out when the boil is done for hoppy beers. Leaving those hops in while the wort cools can give you more of that aroma that some styles call for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jamil Zainasheff published an article called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Secret to Big Hop Aroma and Flavor&lt;/a&gt; that I've found very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="6160" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T13:43:10.737" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T13:43:10.737" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="571" CreationDate="2010-11-16T14:49:17.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the times given for hop additions indicate the length of time the hops are to be boiled for, which is the length of time until the end of the boil.  So, for examle, if a recipe said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1  oz. at 60 min.&#xA;.5 oz. at 15 min.&#xA;1  oz. at  0 min,&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you boil started at 9:00, you'd put in 1 oz. at 9:00, .5 oz at 9:45, and 1 oz. at 10:00.  And you'd turn the heat off at 10:00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops contribure more bitterness and less aroma the earlier they are added to the boil, and they contribute less bitterness and more aroma the later they are added.  Those ones you are supposed to add at 0 min. are for aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T14:49:17.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2010-11-16T15:05:14.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make a low gravity lawnmower larger and add some tart fruit flavoring (pear maybe?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If she hates it, rdwhahb, lawnmowers are incredibly cheap to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T15:05:14.000" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="541" CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:16:37.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't get a pumpkin ale clean with only a secondary for the life of me.  Next batch I plan on using a tertiary.  Just be careful with splashing, I've been careless and oxidized the hell out of an otherwise good beer before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T16:16:37.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:25:29.667" Score="2" ViewCount="2402" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to brew using the same method as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brewing_methods#Yorkshire_Square&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yorkshire Square&lt;/a&gt; but at home? Since the entire thing is open to the air, it seems like it would be a lot easier to brew like this instead of spending all that time sterilizing your equipment (which actually raises the question, how does this method of brewing even work?!?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L50ko.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-16T16:37:54.260" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T16:48:52.673" Title="Can you brew using a mini Yorkshire Square?" Tags="|beer|primary|bacteria|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:34:11.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly use an open-fermentation vessel to ferment. Brewing TV did an episode on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingtv.com/episodes/2010/5/17/brewing-tv-episode-4-open-fermentation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Open Fermentation&lt;/a&gt;, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingtv.com/episodes/2010/6/8/brewing-tv-episode-6-mark-stutrudtopless-hefe-tasting-notes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tasting notes&lt;/a&gt;. The taste of your beer will change with an open fermentation but that doesn't mean it isn't a great method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will still need to properly clean and sanitize your equipment, however, as you'll still need to have sanitized racking equipment, bottling equipment, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: From the comments, Sometimes the the purpose of open-fermentation is to use the wild yeast in the air, but sometimes the purpose is to allow the yeast to perform without the co2 pressure that comes from a closed vessel. You should decide why you want to use an open vessel and then prepare accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-16T16:48:52.673" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T16:48:52.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:35:34.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that Sierra Nevada uses open fermentation for their Kellerweis. However my understanding is that they have air filters that filter out any microbes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short. I would worry about infection. For one, whether you were open air fermenting or not, you still need to sanitize your gear. Dirty equipment makes for dirty beer. Your biggest concern would be fruit flies dropping into your beer which could result in an acetobaceter infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go through with this I would only do it for primary fermentation. 1 week if possible. And then rack to secondary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T16:35:34.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:40:41.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a belgian triple - great flavors/aromas from the yeast and high ABV: I've had good experience introducing this style of beer to wine drinkers. Although, have her try some commercial examples before you commit to brewing 5 gallons - it's not a session beer. Also consider making mead; you could even try a pyment with sauvignon blanc juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="steve" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T16:40:41.077" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="592" CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:43:38.170" Score="3" ViewCount="9201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm completely captivated by www.theelectricbrewery.com, love their directions, and have ordered the parts, so I'll have my experience soon, but what is your experience with selecting hot water heater elements for boiling/heating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: For anyone looking at this considering a move to electric, use the directions in www.theelectricbrewery.com as much as you can afford to.  They ended up spending upwards of $5k on their whole setup, but their directions are really good, and you can make do with some of their setup without using it all.  I highly recommend the 5500 watt ultra low density elements.  The HLT can simply be plugged in and unplugged when it reaches the desired temperature.  The brew kettle, on the other hand, really needs some form of control.  Directly plugged in, my boil was extremely vigorous, and on a day when the temperature was below freezing, with a large fan directly on the boil, it was barely maintainable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:49:57.117" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T12:06:56.240" Title="What wattage element is needed for hot liquor tank/heat exchanger, and what about brew kettle?" Tags="|beer|equipment|electric|boil-kettle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:44:20.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've visited one particular brewery (not SN; this one will remain un-named) that used open fermentation, with dubious results.  Judging from the open-fermentation room, their sanitation was subpar, with mold an funk on the walls.  Not good.  The beer reflected that, with heavy pediococcus infection in every single batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not to say it can't be done, as Sierra Nevada and notable English breweries have done, as well as some German Weissbier brewers, but you can't skip the sanitation aspect at all.  I'd certainly look to having a good HEPA filter for incoming replacement air for that room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big brewers also have an advantage over you:  Size.  Per sqft of exposed wort/beer, they have several feet of depth churning out CO2, where you might have a fraction of that, so your wort might not get as much &quot;off-flow&quot; to push away floating contaminants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be worth trying, certainly, but as said before:  Sanitize very well, beware of incoming air (dust), and pitch a VERY healthy yeast starter to get that CO2 rockin' out of there as soon as possible.  Whether it will save time, I question that.  But you might get a slightly different and possibly better beer character in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calvin Perilloux, Middletown, Maryland, USA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T16:44:20.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="583" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:44:54.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Primary fermentation is the initial and primary stage of fermentation where the yeast consumes the sugars in the wort and converts them to alcohol and carbon dioxide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-16T16:44:54.643" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T16:44:54.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="584" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:44:54.643" Score="0" Body="Primary fermentation is the initial and primary stage of fermentation where the yeast consumes the sugars in the wort and converts them to alcohol and carbon dioxide." OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-16T16:44:54.643" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T16:44:54.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:50:37.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advantage you get from the propane burner is a harder boil.  You brew on any stove that can boil water (my wort usually starts boiling at about 215F, almost water's boiling temp).  However, if you have a lower temperature, make sure you start you hop additions only after you have a full boil, you don't want to miss the hot break or not boil off the dms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T16:50:37.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="555" CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:56:57.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned above, oxiclean is a cleaner, not a sanitizer.  I strongly recommend picking up some BTF Iodophor solution for sanitizing.  2 capfuls of solution is enough to sanitize a standard 5 gallon carboy, keg, etc.   Great stuff&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T16:56:57.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:58:57.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before or during the boil I usually set a few pots of water in my freezer and use that chilled water (and a bunch of ice packs) to fill my laundry tub and perform the &quot;Cool your kettle&quot; method.  It's not the fastest method but using the chilled water helps a bit and I haven't had any bad experiences yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T16:58:57.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="145" CreationDate="2010-11-16T17:01:11.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brew UK are pretty good and have a range of starter kits such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/micro/complete-st-peters-starter-equipment-set.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;St Peter's Microbrewery kit&lt;/a&gt;. This will get you up and running. I got the Woodforde's Wherry kit to start off with (admittedly from a local home brew shop - it was a present from my wife).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to go into bottling, I'd recommend a second fermentation bin with a tap and a little bottler (as well as the bottle capper of course). As to the bottles, I just wash out and remove the labels from shop bought ales. You do have to be careful as many will not be designed for bottle conditioning but I've been very lucky so far with that only having one burst on me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T17:01:11.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="555" CreationDate="2010-11-16T17:06:33.743" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to give the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/Brew-Strong-11-10-08-Cleaning&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cleaning episode&lt;/a&gt; of the Brew Strong podcast. Jon Herskovits of Five Star Chemicals is in that episode, and they talk about the differences between cleaning and sanitizing,etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T17:06:33.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2010-11-16T17:07:55.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gotten a pretty solid rolling boil on a single burner with my 7 gallon pot. That said, my rental has a pretty fancy stove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T17:07:55.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="565" CreationDate="2010-11-16T17:21:18.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once had a delicious &quot;American Cervesa&quot; that was kegged into an uncleaned root beer keg.  It was really freaking delicious.  Definitely had a noticeable root beer flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T17:21:18.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="581" CreationDate="2010-11-16T17:59:06.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't go any hotter than a 4500 watt element for a 15 gallon brew kettle.  While the temptation to put a bigger element in to speed up the process is great, consider that once the liquid achieves boil, you will end up with a very localized 'hot spot' right on the element that causes the liquid to boil VIGOROUSLY.  That locally hard boil will cause the liquid to want to boil over hard.  Then the feedback controller (PID usually) will finally feel some of that heat and shut the element off for too long.  The boil will disappear for a moment before the PID decides to turn the element back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Early on I had a lot of difficulty in getting a consistent boil that I liked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing that helps with this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make your controller switchable from two pole to one pole on the fly.  Once you hit boil, there is no harm in dropping from 220V to 110V.  The element will heat just fine and will not be as hot.  That helps alleviate some of this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T17:59:06.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="565" CreationDate="2010-11-16T18:40:34.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll have trouble with the sugars fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option, which may or may not work, is to make the 'beer' to your target alcohol percentage, then filter it really good to pull out as much yeast as possible, and then perhaps add a potasium metabisulfite tablet or two to retard any remaining yeast. You could then add your sugar sweeteners without them fermenting, hopefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to go crazy with some non-fermentable lactose sugar (what's used to sweeten milk stouts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T18:40:34.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="581" CreationDate="2010-11-16T18:49:28.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The formula to determine wattage is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gallons * Temp Rise (F)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;------------------------------------  * 1000 = Watts Required&lt;br&gt;&#xA;372 * heat up time (hours)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for a homebrew example of 7 gallons of wort at the beginning of your boil, and desiring to reach boil in 15 minutes, and assuming your wort temperature before boil is 150 degrees F after sparge runnoff:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7 * (212 - 150)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;----------------------  * 1000 = X Watts&lt;br&gt;&#xA;372 * .25 hours  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or 4666 watts.... or a 4500W element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to tweak the formula to account for your starting boil size, typical sparge runnoff temp, and desired time to boil.   Another limiting factor is going to be your available amperage to hook up the element.  Since watts = amps * voltage, a typical 15 amp household breaker running at 110V will at most power a 1650W element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other main concern you'll want to watch out for is watt density of the immersion element.  This is the measure of watts per square inch.  Sugary water like wort tends to not conduct heat very well, so you want a low watt density to prevent the sugars from scorching.   What qualifies as a 'low enough' watt density is something I've yet to figure out, but I suspect you'll be fine with anything at 40 or less watts/sq in.  Keeping the wort moving (by stirring) will also mitigate this potential problem.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastEditorUserId="123" LastEditDate="2010-11-16T19:18:55.127" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T19:18:55.127" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="555" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:12:41.530" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never found One Step to be a very effective sanitizer.  Some informal experiments I did years back showed that OxiClean seems to sanitize, but I'm not satisfied enough with those results to give up using StarSan.  Yes, it's expensive, but it's also very effective.  And it's not as expensive as losing a batch of beer to infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-10-19T19:10:05.690" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T19:10:05.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:17:51.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an immersion chiller and a pump (March 809-HS) to recirculate the wort back over the chiller.  Remarkably effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T19:17:51.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="565" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:21:50.580" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went through exactly this about 9 months ago. I couldn't find anything online about it, so I used a basic cider as the inspiration. Here are the exact notes I took while brewing it. Some sections were direct copies from the cider recipe, I added the rest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1lb Munton’s Dry Malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2Fl Oz Root Beer Concentrate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¾ cup priming sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5lbs granulated sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hefeweisen Ale Yeast WLP300&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour 1 gallon of water in pot and bring to a boil. Add Dry Malt and stir.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dissolve the sugar in the heated juice. Stir frequently until the sugar is completely dissolved. Use a wooden or plastic spoon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix the liquid with the dissolved sugar into the bucket with the rest of the water, stirring thoroughly. Temp was at 79 degrees. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add yeast to the liquid in the bucket. Mix well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the lid on, tightly. Install the airlock and place the bucket somewhere out of the way, but with a steady temperature, usually around 70 degrees.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;***After 1 day, bubbling stopped. I left it for another week with no change. Beer Nut rep suggested adding more yeast. WLP001 California Ale was added 1/23/10. I also picked up a hydrometer. Readings as follows:&#xA;    5.5%, 11, 1.045 @ ~65 deg. &#xA;Root Beer was bitter tasting and ended with .5 grav after adding bottling sugar. I bottled half with only that sugar, then boiled 1/3 cup of sugar and threw that in with the other half. The mixture was very cloudy (looked like mud). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, my hydrometer broke before I could take the first reading, but I'll tell you that it was a very high alcohol content. The resulting drink was a bit like a sarsaparilla without a whole lot of sugar. However, my girlfriend and I drank it like crazy. It was odd, but good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changes I would make: &#xA;1) Only dissolve about half the original sugar at the start; add the rest when bottling (just have to make sure you let the CO2 work the O2 out of the bottles before capping so you don't get little beer bombs). &#xA;2) Wait to add flavor until bottling. &#xA;3) Start with California Yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="243" LastEditDate="2010-11-16T19:29:49.823" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T19:29:49.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="483" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:23:36.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I won my first 5 ribbons using an AL kettle, so it would seem to be a myth about AL having a negative impact on beer quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T19:23:36.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:25:40.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was the bitterness you got what you expected?  If not, you might need more sulfate in your water.  If you need more hop flavor, you can try either first wort hopping or increasing the amount of hops you use at 10-20 min. before flameout.  For more hop aroma, dry hopping is da bomb!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T19:25:40.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:27:43.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Safe answer is to boil every bit of water that touches your fermenter.  But that's sometimes overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a well like I do, follow the boil rule.  Even if the well water checks out clean, they're only looking for coliform, not other things, and even though I have a UV sterilization unit to kill bacteria, there is no residual sanitizing effect in the lines, so there is the chance of clean well water but dirty lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are on public water, there is almost certainly some type of chlorine or ozone added to kill and then provide residual effects against bacteria.  In the USA, they are switching almost everywhere to chloramines, which are far more stable than free chlorine, and thus they can use less of the stuff and have the water stay bacteria free for longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, chloramines' stability means you CANNOT remove it by a short boil or by leaving it out overnight.  There are two common methods to remove it:  Filter through carbon SLOWLY, which will remove the chloramine if done properly, but I have to admit that I wonder if carbon filters themselves can be problematic for sanitation.  Adding a reverse osmosis unit after carbon filter is even better.  The second method is to simply add sulfites, which react immediately with chloramine and reduce it to zero in a matter of minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer the sulfite method at a rate of about one campden tablet per 10 gallons of water -- you don't need much, just make sure it dissolves and mixes well.  There will be some residual sulfite, but the level is so low that it will not affect your yeast, and it will gas off from there early in fermentation.  Remember, this is for city water that is already bacteria-free because sulfiting at this weak level will not kill off any bugs that are already in there, and well water doesn't have chloramines anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For city water with chlorine or chloramines, ALWAYS remove those first before brewing with it or adding to a fermenter.  I've tasted many otherwise-well-made homebrews that were ruined by using plain chlorinated water.  Chlorine plus tannins (from grain or hops) gives you chlorophenols, and these are very, very potent flavor compounds, and not in a good way:  medicinal and band-aid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calvin Perilloux, Middletown, Maryland, USA &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T19:27:43.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="535" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:30:37.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magnum and Columbus hops produce very different results.  Magnum is a low cohumulone hop, which results in a very smooth bitterness.  Columbus is relatively high cohumulone and will give a much sharper bitterness.  Horizon is my usual sub for Magnum. As to a BW not featuring hops, it really depends on what style of BW you're making.  English BW are subdued on the hops, but Am. styles are very hop forward, often running to 130 IBU with very prominent hop flavor and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T19:30:37.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="250" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:34:15.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I FWH a majority of my beers.  I really like the improved hop flavor and smooth bitterness it gives me.  I did an experiment a few years back with a split batch, one half using only FWH and the other half with the same amount of the same hops as only a 60 min. addition.  I had the beers analyzed for IBU and although the FWH beer measured slightly higher, it actually tasted less bitter.  That's because of chemical changes that happen as the FWH steep.  Contrary to what some have written, you get no aroma contribution from FWH.  It's all about hop flavor and smooth bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T19:34:15.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="604" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:39:12.650" Score="23" ViewCount="21063" Body="&lt;p&gt;My homebrewer friends recommend the StarSan acid sanitizer, hands-down.  I tried it once and it foamed everywhere and left a bunch of rings in the carboy and the bottles.  It made me paranoid that it would ruin my batch, but the beer tasted fine.  Ever since, I have been wary of using it because of all the foam.  &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Is there any risk associated with leftover acid sanitizer in your beer?  What happens to the phosphoric acid and dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid?  Are there trace amounts of it in my beer? Has anyone had a bad experience with it?  Am I doing it wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T06:19:43.710" Title="No-rinse acid sanitizer - is there a risk?" Tags="|sanitation|acidity|starsan|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:42:09.400" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of acid in a properly mixed batch of StarSan is less than in a bottle of Coke.  I've been using it for years and find it extremely effective as a sanitizer.  I never rinse and it has had no adverse effect on my beer.  In fact, I've won several awards since I started using it.  The commonly heard refrain is &quot;Don't fear the foam!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T19:42:09.400" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="336" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:44:22.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to check out the Cheap'n'Easy system at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dennybrew.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.dennybrew.com&lt;/a&gt;. In addition, if you get Zymurgy magazine, I'll have an article in there shortly after the first of the year with an overview of ways to move to all grain brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-16T20:32:29.283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T20:32:29.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="336" CreationDate="2010-11-16T20:25:02.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the equipment list you mention, if you add:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; * a bottling bucket &lt;br&gt;&#xA; * an old fermenter bucket &lt;br&gt;&#xA; * a 1/8 inch drill bit &lt;br&gt;&#xA; * several hours of time&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make a zapap style mash tun.  Drill about a zillion holes in the bottom of the bucket.  Next, stack the bucket with holes into the bottling bucket.  Buy pre-milled grain and mash.  Add blankets/sleeping bags/pillows to insulate that mash tun.  As for sparging, do a batch sparge, and you are good to go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It whetted my appetite enough to make me want to go out and buy the whole cooler system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T20:25:02.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-16T20:43:03.397" Score="1" ViewCount="2667" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/367/whats-the-difference-between-2-row-and-6-row-malt&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s the difference between 2-row and 6-row malt?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And why should I care? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T21:04:17.393" Title="What does &quot;row&quot; mean in two-row hops/malt" Tags="|hops|grain|malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2010-11-17T06:45:55.823" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-16T20:50:22.967" Score="9" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone here ever made &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kvass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kvass&lt;/a&gt;? If so what was the result? How did you go about it? Did you add any special ingredients (spices, herbs, fruit etc...)? Is there any special process I should know about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to bake some rye bread tonight so I can brew some tomorrow. And I would love some good info if anyone here has experience fermenting this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2013-05-02T19:11:10.383" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T19:11:10.383" Title="Anyone here ever brewed Kvass?" Tags="|rye|bread|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="607" CreationDate="2010-11-16T21:04:17.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to dig quickly in case this votes to close (why?), but here's your answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is 2-Row more plump, generally, than 6-Row? The two types of malting barley get their name from the way the kernels grow on the stalk. Two rows of kernels grow on a 2-Row stalk and six rows of kernels grow on a 6-Row stalk. The 2-row kernels simply have more room. The picture at the top shows the size of the two types in relation to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Malting101/The_Row_Less_Traveled.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Malting101/The_Row_Less_Traveled.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T21:04:17.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="656" CreationDate="2010-11-16T21:40:29.907" Score="18" ViewCount="3140" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ignoring the downsides (Hops: buy vs. grow), how would one grow hops in their backyard?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that it grows 30 feet tall and that you cut it to the ground in the winter, but how do you get started with growing your own plants?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long would it take and how many plants would you need if you wanted to brew one small batch of beer each year from your home grown hops?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in the north-east.  Is it even practical here?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="250" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:53:07.633" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T13:24:13.247" Title="How would one go about growing their own hops?" Tags="|hops|adjuncts|grow|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-16T22:03:00.240" Score="7" ViewCount="8451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a gallon of Apple juice fresh off the press. I was told to just leave it 'as is' in a container with an air lock/bubbler and that's all I need do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually brew beer and this all seems too simple to me. Can it be that simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T18:52:25.413" Title="cider from fresh apple juice, how to?" Tags="|cider|brewing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="611" CreationDate="2010-11-16T22:10:22.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly make great cider that way, but it's hit or miss.  I've made probably about 6-8 batches using natural fermentation and my record is about 50/50 great cider/vinegar.  A more reliable method is simply to pitch some yeast into it.  Almost any yeast will give good results, but I've made my best ciders with WY4766 cider yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T22:10:22.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="610" CreationDate="2010-11-16T22:14:17.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I planted one Cascade hop rhizome about 10 years ago.  It takes 2-3 years before you get much of a crop.  These days, after drying the hops, I average 5-7 lb. from that single plant!  I grow it up a 6-8 ft. high deer fence, then laterally across the top.  You plant the hop rhizomes in the spring.  You can buy them many places, but I get mine from www.freshops.com .  The closer you live to the 45th parallel, the better your hops will grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-09-10T15:49:31.517" LastActivityDate="2011-09-10T15:49:31.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="610" CreationDate="2010-11-16T22:18:42.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of one person trying to grow a few plants he bought online as partially grown plants. UK in the mob so its hard to link you up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy the baby plants or you can buy the less developed rhysome rootlings and try to grow them. They are available to buy online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can grow hops in Kent it should be possible in the north. Though I'm no expert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T22:18:42.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="641" CreationDate="2010-11-16T22:22:52.350" Score="5" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a good place to get all the various formulas used to compute final gravity, color, bitterness, etc. in your beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="214" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T13:05:17.220" Title="Beer recipe calculations?" Tags="|calculations|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-05-02T14:36:53.023" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="615" CreationDate="2010-11-16T22:24:53.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jamil has a great &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pitching rate calculator&lt;/a&gt; on his site, which you might be interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T22:24:53.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="509" CreationDate="2010-11-16T22:28:34.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd add to be sure you can maintain a proper fermentation temp, also.  High gravity beers have a propensity for throwing fusels, and if you don't keep the temp down it can exacerbate that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T22:28:34.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2010-11-16T22:34:35.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fly sparging is not necessarily more efficient than batch sparging.  Grain bed channeling is not an issue in batch sparging.  Crush is always the first place to look in efficiency issues.  My mantra is &quot;Crush til you're scared!&quot;.  I average 85% efficiency.  I never do a protein rest.  I never do more than a single batch sparge.  99.9% of the time I do a single step infusion mash.  I almost never do a mashout, and when I do I haven't found it to increase my efficiency.  If a finer crush doesn't do it for you, look at your water chemistry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T22:34:35.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2010-11-16T22:35:09.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use more hops later in the boil. Use low alpha acid hold as these generally are more suitable for aroma hopping as a rule of thumb, not always though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T22:35:09.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="621" CreationDate="2010-11-16T22:40:39.170" Score="13" ViewCount="3152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a really good deal on some bulk pellet hops (several pounds).  What is the best way to store them?  I've heard that they should be vacuum sealed and put in the freezer.  Will they be OK for 6-9 months if I store them in a zip-lock bag without being vacuum sealed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also started growing my own hops in the backyard.  I don't get much yet, but I'm anticipating the yield increasing over the next few years.  Do the same storage rules apply to dried whole hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T20:27:18.830" Title="What is the best way to store hops?" Tags="|hops|storage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="620" CreationDate="2010-11-16T22:44:27.690" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure whether the vacuum seal is required, but they definitely need to be stored in the freezer. I had a few ounces of whole leaf hops leftover from a batch that I accidentally put back in the fridge rather than the freezer. When I went to take them out a few weeks later, they had liquefied into a brown, disgusting goo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T22:44:27.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2010-11-16T23:07:18.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a Berliner-Weisse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a simple, beginner-style beer, but has a lot of the same dry, tart flavours as Sav Blanc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe Wyeast have been doing some development on optimising fermentation, and you should add the lactic strain after the sacchromycaes yeast has had a chance to get established, so it's not too sour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="WarmBeer" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T23:07:18.490" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2010-11-16T23:15:13.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know it was already mentioned twice, but if you really want aroma it warrants another.  Dry Hopping.  If you want more aroma, its the way to go.  I dry hopped a bitter I was making with 1.5oz Kent Goldings and 1.5oz of Cascade and the result was great.  It imparted a wonderful hop aroma. (though the Cascade overpowered the Goldings)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People usually recommend dry hopping with less because it can make for a &quot;grassy&quot; aroma, but I didn't think it was grassy at all.  I also used pellets, though you can use whole flowers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T23:15:13.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="615" CreationDate="2010-11-16T23:25:16.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopville has a nice online recipe calculator: &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&lt;/a&gt;.  You can store your recipes on the site too which makes it very easy share your awesome creations with others :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T23:25:16.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="615" CreationDate="2010-11-16T23:36:19.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Recipator&lt;/a&gt; is another good one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T23:36:19.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="611" CreationDate="2010-11-17T00:01:32.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to pitch yeast into it instead of hoping for spontaneous fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the sugars in apple juice are completely fermentable. Which means your end result will be a very dry beverage that will taste much like a dry white wine unless you do something to enhance the body. For a 5 gallon batch add 1-2 lbs of DME and a pound or less of 60L crystal malt. This will give you something that tastes much more like commercial cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T00:01:32.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="510" CreationDate="2010-11-17T00:43:30.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had great results with leftover lager yeast.  I include the slurry in the liquid portion of the bread.  I put the liquid in a bowl of the flour and salt, stir only 1/3 of the flour in, cover, and let ferment 12 hours at 10C.  In the morning I stir in and knead the rest of the flour, then rise at room temperature.  Sometimes a couple of tablespoons sugar (per 2 cups liquid) is needed to keep the yeast going.  Make sure your flour has some malt in it, as usual for bread yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Sean R" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T00:43:30.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="611" CreationDate="2010-11-17T01:22:48.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bottled 5 gallons of cider I made (my first batch last year was excellent, and strong).  I've definitely found cider to be easier than beer when it comes to the actual brewing.  That said, if you press the cider yourself and/or add in apple picking for 5 gallons worth of cider, you've got a bit of work to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe I used was specified by the gallon, but I just scaled it up for 5 (with the exception of the yeast; I only pitch one vial/packet of yeast since they're supposed to be sufficient for [I believe] up to 6 gallons).  It's basically an apple wine that you then prime with sugar before bottling.  Everything non-apple derived I was able to get from my local brew shop.  Here's what I went with...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use 1 gallon of unpasteurized cider in your primary fermenter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crush 1 Campden tablet and mix into the cider along with 1/2 tsp. of pectic enzyme, 1/2 tsp yeast energizer, 1/3 lb. sugar (I used brown sugar most recently).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover primary and let sit 24 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch yeast (a champagne yeast was recommended and worked well for me) and install airlock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stir daily (I wasn't always great about this, and it seemed fine with less frequent stirring).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment until SG reaches 1.040 in around 3-5 days (I've been less adherent to this than the stirring and have had good results thus far).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack off to secondary leaving behind as much of the suspended pulp as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment until SG reaches 1.000 in around 3 weeks (again, I've been pretty loose on this timeline).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack off, prime with 1/4 c. sugar per gallon, and bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Age a few months and then kick back with a cider.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cider took longer than most of my beers for the bottle conditioning to take the hard edges off the flavors, but once it did it was very tasty.  The regular stirring bit has concerned me some (both in terms of possible infection and so many recipes advocating not aerating once fermentation is underway) but the cider I made was quite good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T01:22:48.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="632" CreationDate="2010-11-17T01:31:28.307" Score="7" ViewCount="723" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've acquired a handful of different size carboys over the years and all of them are serviceable, but one has some deposits/staining inside.  It's near the top of the vessel, a few inches down from the neck and looks sort of like hard water deposits.  I'm not sure what it is, but I know that the following haven't removed it: hot soap/water + carboy brush, bleach water, white vinegar, muriatic (dilute HCl) acid.  I've brewed in this vessel, and I don't believe the deposits are going to have an adverse affect on the product, but the obsessive side of me would like to get it cleaned up.  Any tips on stubborn carboy stains/deposits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T12:23:10.280" Title="Spotless Carboys" Tags="|cleaning|carboy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="558" CreationDate="2010-11-17T01:45:44.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the Red Green approach to keeping a carboy warm when I was brewing last winter and had temperatures in my brewing area that were too low (perhaps not for lagering, but certainly for what I was doing).  I took a large corrugated cardboard box (I used the one my 21 gal. air compressor came in) and placed it over the carboy.  I cut a hole at the bottom of the box.  I used a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;q=thermal+outlet+switch#sclient=psy&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;biw=1440&amp;amp;bih=721&amp;amp;tbs=shop:1&amp;amp;q=thermostat+outlet&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;aqi=g2&amp;amp;aql=t&amp;amp;oq=&amp;amp;gs_rfai=&amp;amp;pbx=1&amp;amp;fp=86d6a9595ce2c4f2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;programmable outlet thermostat&lt;/a&gt; attached at the neck of the carboy to operate a small space heather outside of the box that blew warm air in through the hole at the base.  I put a piece of corrugated cardboard against the carboy where it was exposed to the hole so the heat wasn't blowing directly on it.  Assuming you can get a thermostat that'll operate in your desired range, this could work.  Given the small volume of air in the box and the thermal mass of the carboy + 5 gallons of liquid nothing was ever experiencing a huge thermal shock, so I can't imagine the yeast we're unduly harmed.  I'm sure there are some purists who are cringing at the thought of using a space heater on the fermenter, but it turned out well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T01:45:44.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="630" CreationDate="2010-11-17T02:03:02.380" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hot PBW (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/tech/pbw.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Powdered Brewery Wash&lt;/a&gt; from Five Star Chemcials) takes off everything I've thrown at it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-17T12:23:10.280" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T12:23:10.280" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="620" CreationDate="2010-11-17T02:10:49.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Freeze the pellets, don't worry about the vacuum seal.  They will last the 6-9 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the whole hops, either use them right away, or dry them before freezing.  Wet hopping is awesome, btw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T02:10:49.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="714" CreationDate="2010-11-17T02:36:26.760" Score="5" ViewCount="1988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that Io Star Iodophor Sanitizer is reusable, but it seems cumbersome.  Do you reuse this sanitizer?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-17T14:37:27.637" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T02:51:22.533" Title="Do you reuse Io Star Iodophor Sanitizer?" Tags="|sanitation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="637" CreationDate="2010-11-17T02:39:09.113" Score="7" ViewCount="651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently only bottle beer, but I would like to have the flexibility of kegging beer to bring to a party from time to time.  I do not want to commit to a kegerator.  I will be happy to try to keep the beer on ice during the event.  What is the smallest amount of gear that I can get away with to accomplish this and about how much will it cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T03:36:57.853" Title="What is the minimum that I need to keg beer?" Tags="|kegs|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="630" CreationDate="2010-11-17T02:50:43.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For carboys, bottles, and bottling buckets I've had good success with OxyClean. I always rinse and sanitize right after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="240" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T02:50:43.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="635" CreationDate="2010-11-17T02:53:48.780" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something like this setup would be the minimum for 5 gallons of beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/cornelius-keg-system-with-5-lb-co2-tank-comes-empty.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/cornelius-keg-system-with-5-lb-co2-tank-comes-empty.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 5 gallon keg, CO2 tank, regulator, and tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="258" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T02:53:48.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="630" CreationDate="2010-11-17T03:14:59.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 20-minute soak in Diversol has never let me down. It sanitizes, too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T03:14:59.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-17T04:24:00.823" Score="11" ViewCount="3217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for brewing software that helps with record-keeping, calculations, inventory, and/or recipes.  Across any platform (Windows/Mac OS X/Linux), what brewing software is available, and what are the pros and cons of each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="148" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T00:21:11.590" Title="What are my options for brewing software?" Tags="|recipe|record-keeping|calculations|software|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="615" CreationDate="2010-11-17T06:11:18.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Open-source brewing software:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brew-journal: &lt;a href=&quot;http://github.com/jsled/brew-journal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://github.com/jsled/brew-journal&lt;/a&gt; (disclosure: my project :)  docstring comments in the computational classes in app/models.py have links to references).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;qbrew: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usermode.org/code.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.usermode.org/code.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brewtarget: &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewtarget.sourceforge.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brewtarget.sourceforge.net/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-open-source brewing software:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend&lt;/a&gt; has a number of excellent online calculators distinguished by having documented details on their approach and the references/formula used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Archives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Technical Library at the Brewery&quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewery.org/Library.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.brewery.org/Library.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Home Brew Digest archives: &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/archives.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hbd.org/archives.shtml&lt;/a&gt; ftp, but often quite a high s/n ratio.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-05-02T14:36:27.387" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T14:36:27.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="640" CreationDate="2010-11-17T06:23:01.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewblogger.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BrewBlogger&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to developer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;BrewBlogger is a web-based alternative&#xA;  to software such as BeerSmith,&#xA;  ProMash, and others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm busy giving BrewBlogger a try now and I'm pretty impressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the commercial space, BeerSmith is quite popular as is ProMash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are quite a few available in the open source space but the only one that I've used is BrewTarget (Windows, Mac and Linux)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="263" LastEditorUserId="263" LastEditDate="2010-11-17T06:39:23.060" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T06:39:23.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="647" CreationDate="2010-11-17T09:45:24.253" Score="11" ViewCount="5521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started home-brewing lager beer last year. I am using ready-kits and the first three times it went quite well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, with the latest, I had a very strange problem. A couple of weeks after I bottled them up and put in the cellar I found some bottles broken. I tried to open other bottles and they had a LOT of &quot;air&quot; inside an a lot of foam came out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could have been happened? What are the possibilities of this behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="264" LastEditorUserId="240" LastEditDate="2010-11-18T08:06:04.087" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T14:36:38.387" Title="Why my homebrewed lager beer bottles explode?" Tags="|bottles|bottling|priming|lager|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="640" CreationDate="2010-11-17T12:08:17.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're brewing wine, take a look at Fermsoft's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermsoft.com/amphora/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amphora&lt;/a&gt; software. They also offer an online wine-brew logging system which I've just started using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T12:08:17.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="643" CreationDate="2010-11-17T12:10:41.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottles usually explode either because of bottling too soon before fermentation is complete or because too much primer was used.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T12:10:41.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="310" CreationDate="2010-11-17T12:10:58.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just located Fermsoft's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermsoft.com/log/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Online Wine Log&lt;/a&gt; which is great for wine brewers, though not really suitable for beer etc. The data entry is nice, but I'd have liked to have seen some analysis in the reports it produces, more like their offline software, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermsoft.com/amphora/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amphora&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T12:10:58.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="643" CreationDate="2010-11-17T13:10:29.613" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;This often happens for 1 of 2 reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bottling too soon, as @LoganGoesPlaces suggests. This means the yeast has not finished consuming the sugar in the beer and continues to do so in the bottle which releases more CO2 than the bottle can handle. You can tell if the fermentation is complete by measuring the Original Gravity and the Final Gravity and ensuring the difference is what is expected from the strain of yeast you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;an infection of some kind. I had that happen once, and the bottles shot foam everywhere. Infections are usually the result of missing sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="1913" LastEditDate="2013-06-10T14:36:38.387" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T14:36:38.387" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="675" CreationDate="2010-11-17T13:36:18.390" Score="4" ViewCount="3401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a 5Gal plastic keg with a brass valve at the top that takes co2 syphon bulbs. The beer has been in there for about a week and i have used 2 bulbs on it so far, but still has no carbonation to speak of. The ambient temperature is about 5-10 C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do i need to use more bulbs to get some carbonation into the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many would be a goof number to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T01:36:31.747" Title="Carbonate beer in a plastic keg" Tags="|carbonation|kegs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="634" CreationDate="2010-11-17T13:39:44.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it is reusable so long as you store it in an air tight container. This is because the active ingredient will evaporate. You can test this at home by making up as small amount of solution that is slightly brown in colour and leaving it for about a day in an open container. It will turn clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-17T14:37:01.897" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T14:37:01.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="634" CreationDate="2010-11-17T15:16:51.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like you mentioned it seems rather impractical to reuse Iodophor beyond the 18 hour window that you normally get. Once it has been diluted to the recommended to 12 parts per million and you've used it. Theoretically you could store it in a plastic bucket with very little head space and reuse the santizer next time you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I still wouldn't trust it, Iodophor seems to leech in to the plastic over time. i.e., it turns the plastic brown. That said, I do keep a spray bottle at about 50 ppm around the house for when I need to spray down a carboy opening or some random equipment. (A practice I picked up from a local brewery) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My typical use for large batches of sanitizer is to just use it for the couple of hours I need it and then pitch it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T15:16:51.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="643" CreationDate="2010-11-17T15:18:14.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could also be due to the bottle itself. If the bottles being used aren't up to being used for bottle conditioning then they can explode. You could have been unlucky and ended up with a batch of bottles that have some flaws. But until the worst happens you can never tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although in this case as has been noted it does sound like it could just be a case of bottling too soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T15:18:14.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="640" CreationDate="2010-11-17T15:20:43.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kentplacesoftware.com/products/BeerAlchemy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerAlchemy&lt;/a&gt; (Mac/iPhone only), and it does pretty much anything I need, including keeping track of inventory. The iPhone version is really neat, and syncs to the Mac-version. The only thing I miss is listing batches by date, I use a spreadsheet on Google Docs for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T15:20:43.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="640" CreationDate="2010-11-17T15:28:40.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerCalculus&lt;/a&gt; is really nice to put your recipes together. Since it's a web app, it's platform agnostic. I don't believe it does anything like inventory management. I've used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerSmith&lt;/a&gt; in the past, and it's really nice and worth the money if you need inventory management.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="214" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T15:28:40.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="310" CreationDate="2010-11-17T15:34:18.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I use desktop software (BeerAlchemy), but several of my friends swear by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.haandbryg.dk/cgi-bin/beercalc.cgi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerCalc&lt;/a&gt;, made by a Danish homebrewing site -- it's pretty great for setting up and sharing recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T15:34:18.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="610" CreationDate="2010-11-17T15:52:04.153" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In season, you can order Hop rhizomes (root cuttings) from several places, online, and possibly locally.  I got mine from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beer-wine.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer &amp;amp; Wine Hobby&lt;/a&gt;, located in Massachusetts, but they will ship them.  I live in New England, so if that's Northeast enough, they grow fine here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered 4 (two each of two varieties), but only two sprouted (I think both Cascade). My fault, I suspect. These two are now more than enough for a good September/October harvest and brew session, and I usually have a gallon size freezer bag or two to share as well. The number you start with may help establish a usable vine sooner, but once one is fully grown, you'll have all the root cuttings you need to establish as big a hop garden as you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The proper time to plant is in the fall, about when a fully grown plant would be going dormant. They need to sit in the soil for the winter and will sprout in the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first few years there were only a few cones, but last year I harvested 3 pounds, enough for several brews. (And last year hops were at a premium due to a shortage and would sell wholesale for $26/lb!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have built an arbor, similar to those used to support grape vines, and train them up the trellis each spring. They grow up about 7 feet, then across the top another 5-6 feet. It's certainly not a typical way to grow hops, but it works well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had heard they could grow to 30 feet, so the first season I ran several lines of twine from the arbor to the peak of the roof, but it was completely unnecessary - a bit of pruning contains them well, and concentrates hop cones at a height I can reach to harvest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just moved, and have dug up several chunks of root and have transplanted them to a nice spot in the new yard near a shed. I'm hoping these sprout in the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, it's well worth growing your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="110" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-05T13:24:13.247" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T13:24:13.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2010-11-17T16:56:36.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;get a pair of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FJRTFK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gloves&lt;/a&gt; boil water in your brewpot and put in as many bottles as you can fit and boil them for a few minutes, put the gloves on and squeeze the bottles in one hand and spin them, the labels will come right off.  You can get through 48 in no time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="flatscaster" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T16:56:36.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="640" CreationDate="2010-11-17T16:57:48.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked a similar question on BrewAdvice.com the other day:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2609/is-there-an-online-equivalent-of-beer-smith&quot;&gt;Is there an online equivalent of Beer Smith?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I asked about online applications, because I'd much rather use a web application then a desktop application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One that was mentioned in that thread that was not already mentioned here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewershub.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brewershub.com/&lt;/a&gt;. I haven't had a chance to play around with it extensively, but it looks nice and it appears to have a rich set of features. It sounds like it was just launched recently. Maybe one more to check out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: After looking at this more, it looks like it DOES let you enter recipes, but it doesn't appear to do any calculations for you, which is a little lame. However, it looks like it does allow you to import BeerXML files, which are generated by programs like BeerSmith, so I guess you could create a recipe in BeerSmith and import it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="195" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T23:30:17.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-17T17:08:08.893" Score="3" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of talk these days about individual carbon footprints, CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in the air, and global warming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing that our little friends the yeasts exist basically to turn sugars into CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; and alcohol, I'm wondering just how much of the gas a 5-gallon batch adds to the atmosphere and how it compares to other common activities that create CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also be interested in finding more information about how to calculate a total carbon footprint for a batch, including information about the differences between grain types and the amount of resources it takes to grow them, how heating elements vs. propane effect carbon usage, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T19:52:48.107" Title="Bubble, Bubble, Toil = Trouble? Brewing's Carbon Footprint" Tags="|carbonation|environment|co2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7" CreationDate="2010-11-17T17:55:27.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have fermentation issues, all the protein laden ingredients in the world won't help you.   Here's a great article that explains how fermentation relates to head formation and has experiments you can do to help diagnose your problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/article/indices/35-head-retention/697-getting-good-beer-foam-techniques&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/stories/article/indices/35-head-retention/697-getting-good-beer-foam-techniques&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T17:55:27.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="640" CreationDate="2010-11-17T18:03:09.713" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com&quot;&gt;BeerSmith&lt;/a&gt; is an excellent brewing software.  It offers easy to understand recipe creation and a brewday instruction sheet.  It also allows for different equipment setups.  Recipes generally follow style guidelines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T18:03:09.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2010-11-17T18:41:29.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just soak in hot water most come off easily. Recycle the ones that dont.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T18:41:29.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7" CreationDate="2010-11-17T18:48:49.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creamy top additive helps me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T18:48:49.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="659" CreationDate="2010-11-17T19:27:27.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you happen to have a room with a lot of plants, put your fermenter in there, they'll love it, and convert the CO2 back to O2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T19:27:27.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="620" CreationDate="2010-11-17T19:29:54.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The absolute best way is to vacuum seal them in oxygen barrier bags and keep them in the freezer.  They'll keep for years like that.  But as the others have said, even without the vac seal they will stay good in the freezer for months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T19:29:54.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="659" CreationDate="2010-11-17T19:52:48.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about the CO2 from the fermentation.  That was recently CO2 in the atmosphere anyways.  See, the barley plant used it to make the barley seed.  Then you made the barley seed into wort.  And the yeast made the wort into CO2 (and beer!).  As Disney taught us, its the circle of life!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now your heating method for your kettle?  That's a different issue.  Depends on where your energy source comes from.  Fossil fuels?  Yep.  That's a carbon footprint.  Solar or wind.  Negative sir!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to also point out.  Propane is about the least efficient, highest cost, and biggest CO2 footprint you can possibly have in brewing.  Unfortunately for most, it is also the easiest way to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T19:52:48.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2010-11-17T20:01:06.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For stubborn labels, try an organic solvent like acetone. It should remove most any common label and won't leave any residue. Rubbing alcohol may also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T20:01:06.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="610" CreationDate="2010-11-17T20:08:22.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops will grow below the 51st parallel. I have been growing commercial hops in Manitoba (near Winnipeg) for two years now.  They need lots of sunshine, lot's of moisture and lot's of compost. I am growing mine on a 12 foot trellis which seems to work just fine. Because of our cold winters I cover the crowns with straw in the late fall after the plants have frozen off for the year. In the spring I pull back the straw and use it as a mulch to keep the weeds down and conserve moisture. At present I am growing 12 different varieties. I will have rhizomes available for sale in the spring.&#xA;I'm not sure what the full potential yield is per plant but I think it's safe to assume 2 pounds from a healthy mature plant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Sandra Gowan" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T20:08:22.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="615" CreationDate="2010-11-17T20:21:43.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a fan of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerSmith&lt;/a&gt;.  Performs tons of calculations, maintains recipes, and all around is a handy tool to have.  There is a trial version to get a feel for it, and for me it was well worth the cost to get the full version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T20:21:43.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="640" CreationDate="2010-11-17T20:25:25.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beertools.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerTools&lt;/a&gt; Pro quite successfully on Windows. They have a free web-based version on their site as well, but it limits the number of ingredients you can add and lacks the mash schedule calculator which I used quite a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stopped using it so much when I moved from a Windows laptop to an Ubuntu laptop and found that BeerTools doesn't run under Wine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T20:25:25.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="620" CreationDate="2010-11-17T20:27:18.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Freezer definitely, and if you can't vacuum seal do consider purging the air with N2 or CO2 if you have that handy from kegging or the like.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T20:27:18.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="610" CreationDate="2010-11-17T20:44:50.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a bunch of good answers here, but I want to throw out a precaution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't plant from seed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A male plant is very difficult to get rid of, and it will spread and pollinate all of your female plants (and your neighbors if they grow hops too).  I'm not sure what a pollinated hop tastes like, but I know for sure unpollinated ones are what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rhizomes or baby plants are the best way for a beginner to ensure they're planting female plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T20:44:50.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2010-11-17T21:33:29.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like De-Solv-It.  You can usually find it at Ace Hardware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just spray to saturate label or residue, wait 10-20 min, and it should rub right off.  It's made of citrus oils and other organic ingredients so it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be safe.  It smells like oranges and has a slightly greasy feel but that washes off easily with soap and water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="277" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T21:33:29.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="502" CreationDate="2010-11-17T22:07:04.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attenuation is far more dependent on the fermentability of the wort than the rating of the yeast.  Those yeast ratings are merely a way of comparing one yeast to another using a standardized wort, and don't really reflect the actual attenuation.  If you want low attenuation, mash at a high temp or use grains that have a high degree of unfermentability.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T22:07:04.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="648" CreationDate="2010-11-17T23:10:56.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard for me to imagine that you can build up sufficient pressure in a plastic keg to carbonate with just static pressure - it's going to take a while to get the CO2 to be absorbed by the beer. I don't suppose there's any way to get a pressure gauge in line with this rig? If you go by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrew.com/pdfs/CO2chart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this chart&lt;/a&gt;, you'll see that at 5-10 degrees C (41-50 degrees F), you'll need almost 15 PSI of CO2 (assuming you want about 1.9 - 2.2 volumes of CO2 dissolved - standardish for ales).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using a 5 gallon pail, that has about 113 square inches of area, so the force on the lid would be very nearly 1700 pounds. The good news is that there's no way it's not going to leak, otherwise the possibility of explosive failure is pretty good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you're using a more typical soda pressure vessel, then you're all set - you probably just need to add more pressure to the rig to get carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T23:10:56.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2010-11-17T23:45:28.063" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a Saison or other farmhouse-style ale. The hopping is usually low and the flavor profile can be quite a complex mix of spicy and fruity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some hops have fruity flavor and aroma profiles. Nelson Sauvin has already been mentioned. Many American hops have a citrus character, although it can be a little harsh. Two of my favorites are Amarillo (which has a grapefruit character) and Summit (which has slight tangerine overtones). These are both high-alpha hops, though, so they should be used later in the boil if you are looking for aroma and flavor without too much bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T23:45:28.063" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="686" CreationDate="2010-11-18T00:40:25.503" Score="12" ViewCount="954" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few friends of mine have Celiac Disease. They've all told me that the commercial gluten free beers they've tried have been terrible. Can I brew something at home that's tasty and something they can drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="2377" LastEditDate="2013-02-23T14:07:34.857" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T14:07:34.857" Title="Glutten for punishment? How can I make a Gluten-free beer?" Tags="|grain|gluten-free|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="648" CreationDate="2010-11-18T01:26:39.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt you'll be able to carbonate the beer without significant quantities of those. However, once the beer is carbonated, the bulbs may be enough to maintain pressure while dispensing -- which I think is closer to the intended purpose of this setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice? Add 1 cup of dissolved priming sugar, wait a week, and give it another try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="110" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T01:26:39.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="648" CreationDate="2010-11-18T01:36:31.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that those CO2 bulbs are designed to fill the vacuum formed by pouring beer, just like the CO2 you hook to a keg you're tapping.  All it does is prevent your beer from being introduced to oxygen.  Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-monkey.com/brewschool/forcecarb.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; for some pretty good instructions on carbing your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T01:36:31.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="693" CreationDate="2010-11-18T04:07:52.050" Score="7" ViewCount="25819" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago I attempted to ferment Mountain Dew (about a decade ago so my recount of the details may be a bit off).  My goal was to have a drink with similar carbonation, similar flavor, and reasonable amount of alcohol.  Talking with some coworkers who were amateur wine makers, they suggested using a champaign yeast.  I took a 5 gallon carboy, filled it most of the way up with Dew, added yeast, and added granulated sugar until it was sugary enough for that particular yeast to thrive.  I don't recall how much sugar was added but I was shocked that the Dew itself didn't register high enough by itself when tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the fermentation was complete, something to make carbonation was added, it was bottled, and put in a cool dark place for a month or so.  When I finally tried it, the results were a bit disappointing.  There was a flat, yeasty, slightly bitter &amp;amp; alcohol taste, but the Dew flavor was almost nonexistent.  All in all it was a fun experiment that I couldn't wait to try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions is this... I got a Mr. Beer kit as a gift and I thought about trying my &quot;Dew Brew&quot; again.  Is there anything I can do to get better results (more of a Mountain Dew flavor with better carbonization)?  Do I need different equipment?  If the problem was that the Dew was already fairly diluted (relative to most pre-fermented liquids) would it work to go get a bag of the syrup that is used in soda fountains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="277" LastActivityDate="2024-03-18T01:19:27.243" Title="Fermenting Soda" Tags="|fermentation|soda|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="680" CreationDate="2010-11-18T04:41:23.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your biggest problem might be the preservatives (sodium benzoate and others) used by Pepsi when making Mt. Dew. Some of those are sure to give the yeast some trouble growing and fermenting your drink, or at the very least will lead to additional stress on the yeas that produce off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mountain_Dew#Ingredients&quot;&gt;good list of ingredients&lt;/a&gt; in Mt. Dew, along with links to individual pages with explanations about many of them. Perhaps you could try making your own Mt. Dew syrup from the list of ingredients, but leave out some of the preservatives and more obscure industrial chemicals to help the yeast ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T04:41:23.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="680" CreationDate="2010-11-18T08:30:16.903" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why don't you just add vodka or something? Fermenting seems a bit elaborate when all you want is basically Mountain Dew with some alcohol in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T08:30:16.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7" CreationDate="2010-11-18T08:36:53.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding a protein rest at around 53°C for 10-15 minutes at the beginning of the mash schedule really helps. That is, if you can effectively control the temperature when mashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also helps to get the wort as clear and free of particles as possible before boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T08:36:53.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="687" CreationDate="2010-11-18T08:41:03.400" Score="3" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you know a site or a web page that lists and explains all technical English terms specific to homebrewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am Italian and I would like learning more in this field, but sometimes I do not understand all terms used here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. Maybe could be an idea have a CW to fullfill this purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="264" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T17:33:13.943" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T17:33:13.943" Title="Technical English terms used in Homebrewing" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="509" CreationDate="2010-11-18T08:48:22.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By following these steps, you should be able to approach 20% ABV:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As Morgan said, make sure you use enough yeast!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerate the beer with pure oxygen at the start of each fermentation phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add sugars and yeast during secondary (and/or tertiary) fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use different yeasts for the different fermentation phases. Yeasts that have high alcohol tolerance don't necessarily like high gravity, and vice versa — start with a yeast that can take high gravity, finish it off with one with high alcohol tolerance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T08:48:22.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="677" CreationDate="2010-11-18T09:21:13.897" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are basically two ways of making gluten-free beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use gluten-free ingredients, like sorghum, buckwheat, millet, quinoa etc. It's doable, but it's likely it won't taste quite like &quot;regular&quot; beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use enzymes to break down the gluten, something like Brewers Clarex, which is sold by White Labs as &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/enzymes/experiment.html&quot;&gt;Clarity-Ferm&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. This stuff is added with the yeast and is designed to break down proteins and clarify the beer, but it also breaks down gluten as a &quot;side-effect&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastEditorUserId="268" LastEditDate="2010-11-18T12:52:10.363" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T12:52:10.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="684" CreationDate="2010-11-18T11:24:29.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/101/terms.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this glossary&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerAdvocate&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T11:24:29.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="689" CreationDate="2010-11-18T13:52:07.833" Score="13" ViewCount="8447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a beer with some hazelnut flavor to it. Maybe add some cocoa nibs or powder to the wort and make a Nutella-ish beer. My question itself is specific to hazelnuts, but maybe you could enlighten me on how to brew with all types of edible nuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions/concerns are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I prepare the hazelnuts for the beer?&lt;/strong&gt; Would I roast them in the oven first? I'll need to de-shell them first, correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will the fat content cause the beer to spoil?&lt;/strong&gt; That what makes Nutella so delicious of course, but fat in beer sounds terrible. Is there anyway to avoid that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When would I add them to the beer?&lt;/strong&gt; Mash? Boil? Secondary? Depends?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are probably other things that I'll need to consider. But if anyone could help me out from experience, it'd be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastEditorUserId="12" LastEditDate="2010-11-18T13:57:28.283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T16:55:24.610" Title="How do I brew with nuts? Specifically hazelnuts." Tags="|adjuncts|nuts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="688" CreationDate="2010-11-18T14:05:44.793" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the safest way to add hazelnut flavor to beer would be to use hazelnut extract. If you don't want to use pre-bought extract/syrup, you can make your own by chopping up the nuts, covering them with vodka (or another neutral spirit), leave it for a few days, strain off the vodka and add it to the fermenter after a couple of days of fermenting. If the vodka contains fat after the nuts are removed, skim it off with a (sterilized!) spoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T14:05:44.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="680" CreationDate="2010-11-18T14:50:23.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chris Colby, the editor of BYO magazine has what appears to be a mild obsession with using Mountain Dew in beers. There are a couple of recipes that have appear in the magazine: Beelzeboss (Oct 2007 issue) and Mt. Brew (Mar/Apr 2005 issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His experience seems to be that the preservatives do slow fermentation somewhat, but they are at a level designed to deal with normal spoilage encountered on the shelf; they are no match for a large, healthy colony of aggressive yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the key is to give the yeast every chance to thrive in an environment which is somewhat sub-optimal: make a good sized starter, aerate well before pitching and add some yeast nutrient. White Labs makes Servomyces, which I have not used myself, but which seems to work well for those who have tried it. Also, be patient and let the fermentation have time to complete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I think of it, it sounds very similar to brewing mead. Honey is a mild preservative, after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T14:50:23.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="688" CreationDate="2010-11-18T16:55:24.610" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to be careful adding nuts as they are very fatty. Introduction of lipids in beer can cause a lot of problems. Using powders and/or extracts is recommended. You can introduce nuts during the boil however, but you'll need to skim the contents that float to the top during the process. Still I would avoid using actual nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T16:55:24.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="610" CreationDate="2010-11-18T17:05:11.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I acquired some rhizomes from my local homebrew shop. Plant them in spring and watch them grow. They're vine-like so you'll need something for them to climb. They're pretty resilient and don't take much maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T17:05:11.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="680" CreationDate="2010-11-18T17:06:25.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is going to be start with a simple beer/wine/mead recipe, depending on what you prefer, to get your alcohol.  Then, you can throw in a liter or two of Mt. Dew if you want, for flavoring, but keep in mind that sodas are generally only about 10% - 20% fermentable, so actual soda will only water down your brew.  The key, however, is finding a concentrated flavoring to add, like this mountain dew candy flavoring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000DK64P&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Dew-Flavor-Candy-Flavoring/dp/B0000DK64P&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also throw in some lemon or lime zest, maybe a pinch of anise, and other things to replicate the Dew taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend using much Mt. Dew though, for the following reason:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to pitch perfectly healthy yeast, like that harvested from the krausen of an actively fermenting beer, into pure Mt. Dew, I think you'd find that you wouldn't get more than about 1% ABV from fermentation.  It's just not very fermentable, and it doesn't usually taste much like the original soda after the yeast have their way with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going back to recipe formulation, I might start with something like 11 lb of pale 2-row malt (or 7.5 lb LME), an ounce of a noble hop like Saaz, and the aforementioned flavorings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you brew it, let us know how it turns out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T17:06:25.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="696" CreationDate="2010-11-18T18:28:40.130" Score="8" ViewCount="5855" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past, I've used Wyeast smack packs, where the instructions tell you to make sure that the pack is viable before opening so that you can get refunded for a dud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a baker, and I use dry yeast all the time in my dough.  When I bake, I always proof (that is, let the dry yeast incubate in tepid water for a few minutes, to ensure viability).  Many people say this is no longer necessary, so maybe it's a bit of a rain dance, but I figure that it's better safe than sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I brewed with a pack of dry Muntons Ale yeast, and right after adding the initial LME to my boil, I took the yeast out to proof in a glass of tepid water (where it sat until the cooled wort went into my primary).  My question is: for those that use dry yeast, do you ever proof before pitching?  Is this a good idea or a bad idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="177" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T15:37:41.773" Title="Proof dry yeast, or just pitch it?" Tags="|dry-yeast|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="694" CreationDate="2010-11-18T18:44:31.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't see how it would hurt. I've started making a starter even from the Wyeast smack packs, it's simple to do and I would rather ruin a batch of yeast than a batch of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T18:44:31.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="694" CreationDate="2010-11-18T18:45:41.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's always a good idea to rehydrate dry yeast before pitching, and if your OG is above ~1.080, a starter is recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many yeast manufacturers don't require rehydrating their yeast, but it's generally regarded as a marketing ploy to show how simple using dry yeast can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T18:45:41.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-18T18:47:25.953" Score="1" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer has some protein in it from the grains used (and maybe other ingredients), does anyone know if I can make a beer with little to no protein?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T19:17:47.730" Title="Can I make low (or no) protein beer?" Tags="|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="697" CreationDate="2010-11-18T18:55:36.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Proteins are essential for yeast growth.  However, a typical finished beer only has around a half gram of protein per 12 oz. serving - which is pretty minimal, but also pretty much unavoidable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/introduction-protein-structure-111819/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/introduction-protein-structure-111819/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it a concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T18:55:36.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-18T19:31:57.450" Score="11" ViewCount="1648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little confused when it comes to sugars.  It seems like there are a lot of different kinds and they come in many different forms.  What affects to different sugars have on brewing?  Do they impart different characteristics or are they all pretty much the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fructose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glucose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sucrose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dextrose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maltose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and any other ones I may be missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what are the common sugar sources composed of and what makes them different (what bad/good flavors or characteristics can they impart in your beer)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corn sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Candi sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corn Syrup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Molasses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;again, mention any other ones I may be missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-11-18T20:17:04.897" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T20:17:04.897" Title="What's a good breakdown of all the sugars in regards to brewing?" Tags="|fermentation|sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="701" CreationDate="2010-11-18T19:48:29.657" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wort (from 100% malt) is typically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;45% Maltose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20% Dextrose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15% Maltriose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10% Glucose/Fructose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5% Sucrose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5% other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more about adjuncts and their fermentability &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Sugar&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T19:48:29.657" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="640" CreationDate="2010-11-18T20:09:50.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't say enough about &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewpal.info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BrewPal&lt;/a&gt;!  iPhone app (which is great because I don't brew in front of my computer).  Only $0.99!  Built in mash (fly, batch, decoction, partial, or steep) and boil timers (so I can enjoy as many homebrews as I want and not forget to add the 15 min hops, irish moss, or wort chiller...). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a developer and was going to write my own just to learn how to write iPhone apps and learn about all of the math that can go into brewing, but this just did everything I was hoping for and more that I never wrote it.  Maybe write something similar for Android.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't have inventory management features but I'm not that advanced anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T20:09:50.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="694" CreationDate="2010-11-18T20:23:22.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With quality dry yeast on a normal gravity beer, I just pitch it in directly.  I have not had any problems with poor/slow fermentation or off flavors.  Please note the word &lt;em&gt;quality&lt;/em&gt; - if the yeast is old or somehow questionable play it safe.  Various Danstar and Fermentis yeasts have always rewarded me with fast and vigorous fermentation after pitching directly.  I swear, dry yeast must be on steroids or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T20:23:22.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="708" CreationDate="2010-11-18T20:41:04.437" Score="4" ViewCount="2320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make some smaller batches in order to test recipes, but without the hassle of bottling multiple different beers. The whole process of sanitizing and cleaning bottles takes too long if I'm going to be frequently brewing small test batches. So this brings me to my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If I were going to force carbonate 1 gallon of beer in a 5 gallon corny keg, what do I need to know?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to expel the air that would be in the keg? CO2 has a higher density than air, correct? Could I just fill the keg with CO2, open the lid, pour in my beer and then increase the pressure to the appropriate level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would there be an increased chance of infection? Would it age poorly? Is there any adverse effect of having a large amount of CO2 head space in a keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastEditorUserId="12" LastEditDate="2010-11-19T03:42:54.643" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T03:42:54.643" Title="Do I need to completely fill my keg?" Tags="|carbonation|kegs|small-batch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2010-11-18T20:41:06.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love beer and I enjoy wine.  I don't necessarily want to have them taste similar to each other.  Have you considered brewing for her an easy to drink beer?  I've had huge success turning people on to beer with a basic hefeweizen or blonde ale.  Nothing overpowering, and some great flavor comes through.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along the lines of the initial request, try something around 4% since that will finish dryer, and use a clean yeast like US-05 (my go-to for pale ales).  To keep bitterness down, maybe a small addition of Cascade at 45, and then mild to moderate additions of Citra at 15 &amp;amp; 5 depending on how fruity you want it.  Plug the AAs into a calculator and I guess keep it under 15IBUs.  Make sure fermentation temps are on target for the yeast you select to ensure the lowest possible FG.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you'll have there hopefully a dry, not too bitter, and fruity beer.  Any specialty grains you want to use is up to you, though I would steer towards keeping this a pale ale.  See if you can make a test batch of something to highlight the citra hop first, it is definitely an unusual one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T20:41:06.130" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="706" CreationDate="2010-11-18T20:56:45.273" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;After sanitizing everything, you could connect the CO2 line from the tank to the keg, only connect to the downspout side rather than the normal gas inlet side.  With the lid removed, slowly fill the keg with CO2 - it will fill from the bottom, pushing the air out.  You can use a lighter to test to see when it's full of CO2. (Lower a long fireplace lighter down just inside the mouth of the keg - if it immediately extinguishes, you're good.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've done this, you can fill your purged keg with beer.  (Don't forget to swap your lines back!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no unusual risks associated with lower levels of liquid, and as long as you properly sanitize and purge, the risks of infection and oxidation are minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T20:56:45.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="711" CreationDate="2010-11-18T21:44:52.177" Score="3" ViewCount="1487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a neighbor who would bring out a large, 5-6 gallon? glass jar full of lemons(not sure what else was in there) outside for a little bit a few times a week. I know he was making some kind of fermented drink and that it took at least a hand full of months before it was ready. I want to try making some, but sadly I have moved away and I don't even know what it is called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any idea of what something like that would be called? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt;I don't think it was lemoncello, it would be strange to make it with whole lemons.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="287" LastEditorUserId="287" LastEditDate="2010-11-19T16:33:59.007" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T02:24:22.750" Title="Drink made from fermented lemons?" Tags="|fermentation|fruit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="709" CreationDate="2010-11-18T22:05:53.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe Limoncello?  &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limoncello&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limoncello&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T22:05:53.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="709" CreationDate="2010-11-19T00:25:15.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lemoncello is a possibility, but it is an infusion, not a fermentation of lemons.  Cover lemons with vokda and let sit for a few weeks, then remove lemons and sweeten to taste.  Works best with lemon zest, as whole lemons will have a lot of pith that will leave a bitter taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T00:25:15.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="310" CreationDate="2010-11-19T00:53:22.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-journal.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brew-journal.com/&lt;/a&gt; … online, open-source.  Feel free to join, run your own instance, contribute patches, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T00:53:22.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="677" CreationDate="2010-11-19T01:08:33.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;BYO did a story on Gluten-Free brewing in their Mar/Apr 2007 issue. The online version is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/component/resource/article/Indices/34-Grains/702-gluten-free-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. This includes an all-grain recipe for those who are brave enough to malt their own sorghum. There is an extract version of the recipe &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/recipeindex/article/recipes/112-specialty-a-experimental-beer/1401-simple-simon-gluten-free&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which uses Briess sorghum syrup and honey as fermentables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T01:08:33.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="634" CreationDate="2010-11-19T02:51:22.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.handpaintedglassware.com/brewing/iodophor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt;  has an interview with a scientist that works for the company that makes B-T-F Iodophor. He says that as long as the solution as the color, it should work. However he suggests making a new batch after 24 hours maximum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T02:51:22.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="706" CreationDate="2010-11-19T02:55:03.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My batches often dont reach 5 gallons. All I do is hook up the co2 to the normal line, then pull on the release valve. Since the co2 sinks to the bottom, the stuff that gets pushed out first is the normal air. I do this a few times since it takes a moment for the co2 to settle out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T02:55:03.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="717" CreationDate="2010-11-19T05:10:10.877" Score="4" ViewCount="5455" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to add less maple syrup later in the boil or even after the boil and get a comparable flavor to adding more earlier in the boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like we should be able to essentially &quot;dry hop&quot; the beer and pitch some extra yeast to deal with the sweetness and avoid some of the expense of purchasing so much delicious local maple syrup from our farmer's market. I want to support the farmers but not &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; much. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="151" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T10:04:26.683" Title="How to maximize the maple syrup flavor and minimize the cost?" Tags="|beer|cost|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="716" CreationDate="2010-11-19T05:42:53.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like your interest in efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always added maple syrup after primary.  It creates a second fermentation, but if you add it during the boil, you lose much of the aromatics and get a harsher, woodier flavor.  This is true to a lesser effect if you add the syrup before primary, so to avoid flavor and aroma being carried away with CO2, you should add it as late as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you add it after primary, it's a good idea to go ahead and rack as you would to secondary, then add the syrup, and then rack again after the second fermentation is complete.  This way you don't risk autolysis from the beer sitting on old lees too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-11-19T06:21:52.110" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T06:21:52.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="719" CreationDate="2010-11-19T09:08:35.690" Score="11" ViewCount="3853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Am planning on adding a vanilla pod to secondary in my next brew. What is the best way to sanitize it before it goes in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T12:18:09.817" Title="What is the best way to sanitize vanilla pods?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|sanitation|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="718" CreationDate="2010-11-19T09:46:44.663" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cover it in vodka (as little as possible), and put both the vanilla pod and the vodka into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T09:46:44.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="723" CreationDate="2010-11-19T15:08:58.033" Score="24" ViewCount="32454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to keep a hydrometer for more than a few brewing sessions.  They either break from dropping them, going from hot to cold, or I've had the wax holding all of the lead pellets to the bottom melt and shift the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other ways to measure gravity or alcohol other than using a super delicate hydrometer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T01:04:36.850" Title="Alternatives to a hydrometer?" Tags="|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="720" CreationDate="2010-11-19T15:15:41.237" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refractometers can be used - they are a bit pricier, but on the other hand the sample you need is MUCH smaller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qd9uJ9JitJw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a video of one being used.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2017-02-07T17:39:06.017" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T17:39:06.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="716" CreationDate="2010-11-19T15:23:12.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to consider using fenugreek instead of maple syrup.  That would definitely fall in the realm of experimentation since I haven't used it personally and can't offer ammounts to use or when.  But, it may be able to give you the maple you want at a lower cost, and lower impact on your OG/FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T15:23:12.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="720" CreationDate="2010-11-19T15:36:21.840" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refractometers are about the only other reasonable alternative for the homebrewer.  They are a little more expensive, but usually much easier to use.  They only need a few drops of wort/beer to get a good measurement.  Take note however, reading final gravity of your beer is not a one step operation.  You need to do a little more math if you want to calculate ABV with only a refractometer.  The nice thing is BeerSmith and probably other programs will do the math for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flip side to all of this is that with the larger sample needed for the hydrometer, you have a good excuse to taste your wort/beer more often.  Why dump those four oz. you need for the reading when you can drink it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to clear this up some.  When calculating ABV of your beer, you only need two number and one simple formula.  Take the OG, subtract the FG, and divide by .00736.  For example, a beer that starts at 1.050 and ends at 1.010 yields (1.050 - 1.010) / 0.00736 = 5.4% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a refractometer, you must adjust your final FG reading.  This is because alcohol and sugar are present in the sample.  Alcohol refracts differently than sugar.  Therefore, your FG reading on a refractometer is NOT correct on its own.  You must take into account the OG when reading the FG of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes it a little more complex than when you just use a hydrometer.  There are plenty of sites that will explain and do the calculations for you.  For example, a quick Google search for 'calculating abv with a refractometer' turned up this site (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onebeer.net/refractometer.shtml&quot;&gt;Onebeer.net&lt;/a&gt;) which seems to do a good job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it wants the input in %Brix, which means you don't need the refractometer with both scales...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to know what the formulas are so you can do it yourself, then go to this site (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.primetab.com/formulas&quot;&gt;Primetab&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit #2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK.  I swear I'm not drinking yet.  But math mistake up above.  I think that should have been 0.00763.  But to simplify it a bit for everyone let's just do this instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV = (OG - FG) * 131&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, some will say &quot;Hey!  That still isn't quite right!&quot;.  I agree.  The relationship between SG and ABV isn't really linear.  High gravity brews have some other things to factor in.  Other adjuncts and flavorings can change it all up.  That magic number of 131 is just a compromise.  Really is can vary anywhere from about 128 to about 135.  But in the sake of keeping this simple for the homebrew audience, I think that is good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastEditorUserId="64" LastEditDate="2010-11-24T17:00:21.823" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T17:00:21.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="727" CreationDate="2010-11-19T15:42:51.927" Score="4" ViewCount="458" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions for how to build a rig to carbonate multiple corny kegs at one time?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have a high pressure CO2 line in my beer fridge so that I can carbonate one that is cold.  That leaves me at times with only two beers on service pressure while I wait for a new keg to chill and carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to turn a corner of the room into a carbonating station where I could hook up multiple kegs at one time (maybe four or five).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything special I need to know about building a setup like this?  Extra equipment?  Issues with multiple styles of beer exchanging flavors through the CO2 lines? Etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T15:48:39.410" Title="Carbonating Kegs In Quantity" Tags="|equipment|carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="724" CreationDate="2010-11-19T15:46:30.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your setup has a regulator for each beer, you should be golden.  Even if it doesn't you can still be fine as long as you don't mind slightly under carbonated lagers or slightly over carbonated stouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T15:46:30.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="737" CreationDate="2010-11-19T15:47:59.840" Score="6" ViewCount="3855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know some people make nitro stouts, but has anybody ever heard of a &quot;whipped cream&quot; stout using nitrous rather than nitro?  I think this could be tasty, but I'm not sure of the legality or practicality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  I was thinking of the flavor the nitrous would impart on the beer (much like whipped cream), I don't think you'd actually get a buzz from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="113" LastEditDate="2010-11-19T18:37:44.160" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T22:41:33.443" Title="Force &quot;bubblifying&quot; with something other than CO2" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="724" CreationDate="2010-11-19T15:48:39.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You just need a manifold to split one CO2 line into several more.  If you're carbonating different styles of beer and want different pressures, you'll want your tank output at the highest pressure, and then a separate regulator for each line downstream of the manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of HB'ers put this whole setup inside a kegerator, so you just drop your corny in, open the valve on the manifold, set the regulator, and forget about it for a couple days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T15:48:39.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="726" CreationDate="2010-11-19T15:59:27.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's borderline &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cognitiveliberty.org/dll/N20_state_laws.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;illegal&lt;/a&gt;, depending on your state.  It's been mentioned in threads on various forums over the years, but it sounds like a bad idea, since you wouldn't really know how much you were consuming, and could therefore easily OD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, you'd waste a lot more N2O carbonating beer than if you just drank regularly-carbonated beer and did your own thing with the nitrous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T15:59:27.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="726" CreationDate="2010-11-19T16:02:46.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Practicality:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NO2 will inhibit bacterial growth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's really expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll have to worry about ventilation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EDIT: I was incorrect in my statement saying that NO2 is extremely flammable. Thank you for the correction, Brandon! But the fact remains that a static discharge can cause a violent decomposition of the molecule when under pressure. And a static discharge will be more likely in a non-certified container (your keg). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.airproducts.com/nr/rdonlyres/8c46596e-2f7d-4895-b12a-e54cd63e1996/0/safetygram20.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Legality:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Via my grandfather who is a dentist: Nitrous oxide is legal to own under federal law, but state law varies like Brandon mentioned above. Recreational use is most likely a misdemeanor. I'm not sure if the bubbles in the beer being ingested would constitute recreational use. Like you said, they use it in whipped cream all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastEditorUserId="12" LastEditDate="2010-11-20T03:11:08.897" LastActivityDate="2010-11-20T03:11:08.897" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="726" CreationDate="2010-11-19T16:46:45.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't &quot;carbonate&quot; with anything other than CO2.  That's the definition of &quot;carbonation&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T16:46:45.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="718" CreationDate="2010-11-19T16:49:54.600" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use vanilla quite a bit to make my Bourbon Vanilla Imperial Porter and I've never sanitized the beans, nor suffered any ill effects from not sanitizing them.  By the time they get into the beer in secondary, the alcohol content and low pH of the beer make it pretty resistant to infection.  And remember, the best part of the vanilla bean is the &quot;gunk&quot; inside it.  Split the bean lengthwise, scrape out the &quot;gunk&quot;, and add both it and the pod to the secondary.  That's all you need to do.  I dislike adding vodka to my beers since it adds a disagreeable &quot;heat&quot; to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T16:49:54.600" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="716" CreationDate="2010-11-19T16:51:58.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;IME, the best way to get maple flavor on the beer is to use maple extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T16:51:58.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2010-11-19T17:58:22.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding (1):  Yes, there is harm.  Even if the yeast holds up well, with most yeasts, you will get lots more estery flavors than you want if you're pitching at 90 F.  With some styles (e.g,.Scottish Ale, Altbier, Kölsch) the aroma profile will be completely wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding (2):  There's not too much problem letting wort sit a bit longer once you get down to 90 F -- &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; it is in a sealed, sanitary container.  That's a big if for a partially-open pot.  Keep in mind that some retailers have sold &quot;wort in a bag&quot; before, room temp storage.  But it went into the bag higher than pasteurization temp when it was sealed.  So the theory works, but the practice might not, not with a home kitchen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wort chiller is really the way to go, but that's $60 up.  If you're on a budget I'd look to snag a cheap 25-foot (minimum) immersion chiller off of Craigslist or even from one of the brew shops on an occasional sale.  Copper is pricey, yes, but you save a lot of your own time and remove potential for problems from the aforementioned points (1) and (2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calvin Perilloux, Middletown, Maryland, USA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T17:58:22.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="720" CreationDate="2010-11-19T18:24:37.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too have broken so many hydrometers. My current strategy is to just be super careful with it. We treat it like a VIP now and haven't broke one in the last year or so. Use and put it away ASAP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, now I'm interested in refractometers. Never knew they existed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T18:24:37.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="720" CreationDate="2010-11-19T18:41:32.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;the beav, not sure what you mean: &quot;Take note however, reading final gravity of your beer is not a one step operation. You need to do a little more math if you want to calculate ABV with only a refractometer.&quot;  A hydrometer doesn't do the math either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a different note, some measure in specific gravity. austinhomebrew.com has one for $40 this week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="301" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T18:41:32.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="262" CreationDate="2010-11-19T20:07:50.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with mike.  I think all grain is even a step up from extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Tim's right - it's for the person who wants more control of the process/outcome.  I have the choice of Munich or Vienna or biscuit or any other mashed grain in any proportion I like.  It's hard to impossible to do with extract + specialty grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice: Try partial mash recipes to get the feel for it.  The rest is pretty easy: just scale up.  Or don't.  You'll at least have a great feel for what the process is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, what's simpler than extract to get a really tasty beer?  You're right, it's better than many store-bought beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="301" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T20:07:50.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="726" CreationDate="2010-11-19T20:35:15.567" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you want the flavor and mouthfeel of whipped cream? Bad news: the nitrous isn't really responsible for those. It's mostly the fats in the cream. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, to set the record straight, nitrous oxide is NOT flammable. Not that it matters here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, your best bet is to use nitro gas like Guiness. It will give you the closest results without requiring a radical approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: and oatmeal and lactose can both contribute to the mouthfeel and body, which should also help significantly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-11-19T20:59:08.733" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T20:59:08.733" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="740" CreationDate="2010-11-19T21:26:25.597" Score="13" ViewCount="5020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to pick up a glass carboy, but I'm not sure which size. I brew in 5 gallon batches (just starting out) and I'm wondering if I should go with the 5 gallon or 6 gallon carboy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts? Advantages of one vs another? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T15:49:38.990" Title="5 or 6 Gallon Glass Carboy" Tags="|carboy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="739" CreationDate="2010-11-19T21:28:27.543" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need a 6 or 6.5 gallon carboy to provide enough head space during primary fermentation of a 5-gallon batch. If you go smaller, it will be very messy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Five-gallon carboys are good if you plan on racking to secondary to let the beer condition. During secondary, there will be little to no foam on top (&quot;krausen&quot;) so the head space isn't needed. In fact, some HB'ers feel that the smaller headspace is slightly advantageous in minimizing oxidation after racking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-11-19T21:36:18.610" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T21:36:18.610" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="743" CreationDate="2010-11-19T21:33:55.120" Score="10" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for resources on how to really taste some of the commonly referred to tastes out there. For instance, people say that phenols taste like band-aids. But I really have no clue what that means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are off flavor taste kits available for purchase, but those run around $150, which seems a bit high. But luckily I ran across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/study.php#drbeer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a nice table in the BJCP study guide&lt;/a&gt; which would allow me to doctor beer in order to give it the off flavors that I'm looking to experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question: What type of reference beer should I use? The guide suggests using a clean lager which seems to makes sense at first. But the main reason for me learning these tastes is so that I can get better at picking them out of the beer that I make. And  rarely make a clean lager; I normally make stronger ales. Should I use one of my homebrews or get some commercial equivalents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus for anyone that's had experience using the BJCP instructions and could speak from experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-12-31T14:23:22.483" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T14:23:22.483" Title="What type of reference beer should I use for flavor doctoring?" Tags="|flavor|off-flavor|bjcp|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="741" CreationDate="2010-11-19T21:47:47.003" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd follow the recommendation for a clean lager.  You want to taste the off flavors enough to be able to recognize them, and an ale might cover up what you're looking for.  A friend who went to Siebel tells me that they used MGD there.  I just finished teaching a BJCP study group and we did off flavors both with the recommendations in the study guide and with one of the FlavorActiv kits from Siebel.  The Siebel kit had much more varied flavors and they were &quot;cleaner&quot; and stronger of that makes any sense.  If you can find people to go in on the expense with you, I highly recommend it.  The study guide has a more limited set of flavors.  I recommend you mix those at 2-3x the recommended strength to be sure you get them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T21:47:47.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="741" CreationDate="2010-11-19T21:47:53.063" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why settle for just one?  Try tainting several types of beers.  Start by adding the off-flavors to an ounce or two of light lager, in medium-small doses, and identify how they change the beer's nose and taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, you can repeat with an amber, or go even darker to see if you can still perceive the different off-flavors.  Commercial beers are probably better baselines than homebrews, since they tend to be more consistent, reliable, and untainted, but there's no reason not to try it on your own brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's really no need to limit yourself.  You can also find beers with known off-flavors, like the DMS in Fat Tire.  Compare that to a cleaner-tasting amber.  Bud light has faint acetaldehyde.  There are plenty more examples like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, keep in mind that you can usually get the gist without actually putting things in beer.  Oxidized beer tastes like wet cardboard.  You can cut a small piece of cardboard and chew on it without any beer, and it's very reminiscent of oxidized beer.  The same applies to other flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T21:47:53.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="741" CreationDate="2010-11-20T06:57:14.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coors. The most neutral of the big industrial lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-11-20T06:57:14.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="720" CreationDate="2010-11-20T18:02:09.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this doesn't answer your question, but how about just being more careful with the hydrometer - I've never broken one so I'm surprised that you're having so much trouble with it? In particular why would you ever use it in hot liquid (i.e. why would going from hot to cold or melting wax ever occur)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a glass hydrometer but I have seen plastic ones before - I imagine they'd cope a lot better with being dropped etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2010-11-20T18:02:09.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="694" CreationDate="2010-11-20T22:36:28.500" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;there is a bit of confusion here.  I see several divergent answers to this question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The confusion seems to be between hydrating, proofing &amp;amp; creating a starter.  These are different and are for different purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;!st, hydrating: getting the dry yeast wet in order for it to be mixed evenly throughout the wort.  Fermentis suggests dissolving their yeast in sterile wort or water and mixing it into a paste.  The resulting paste will spread more evenly through the wort.  This is not an issue for a liquid yeast user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd, proofing: I think this is really a technique for bread making.  Proofing involves mixing the dry yeast with a small ammount of sugar, waiting 15 minutes or so to ensure yeast activity (foaming) and then proceeding to mix the yeast in to the dough ingredients.  There are two reasons that this may not be advisable: one is that bread yeast is almost always &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more active that beer yeast and the proof with bread yeast will show activity very quickly, while a beer yeast proof may not.  Second, I've seem to remember some cautions about using anything other than wort to get the yeast going since other sugars lack necessary nutrients for healthy yeast growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3rd, making a starter:  this is a technique for sourdough &amp;amp; brewing. In brewing, the yeast is mixed with a somewhat dilute wort (I think Greg Noonan's New Lager Brewing suggests 1.03 - 1.04) several days ahead.  (User48 has a great answer explaining the process in the question that's linked above). The advantage of a starter is to increase the yeast cell count so that it is sufficient to ferment the wort quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="301" LastActivityDate="2010-11-20T22:36:28.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7746" CreationDate="2010-11-21T01:23:52.097" Score="9" ViewCount="16199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that campden tablets lend an odor to my mead that requires my letting the wine breathe for a while. I get headaches from this too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I'm right about this, would pasteurization of the must a viable option? Can I use less than the recommended amount of campden tablets and be safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="297" LastEditorUserId="297" LastEditDate="2010-11-22T18:23:31.253" LastActivityDate="2017-08-12T19:18:12.413" Title="Can I ferment mead without campden tablets?" Tags="|wine|mead|campden|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="750" CreationDate="2010-11-21T01:32:59.577" Score="2" ViewCount="792" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just about to start up my next batch and noticed I hac a couple glass milk bottles from Whole Foods lying around. In what ways could they be put to-use in homebrewing? Fermenting a test? Mead? Cider? Maybe just as an alternative when bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="240" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T13:20:07.387" Title="Glass Milk bottles?" Tags="|bottling|fermenter|glass|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="325" CreationDate="2010-11-21T01:43:14.233" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like there's confusion here.  J is talking about &quot;pectin enzymes&quot;, not pectin. Pectin can contribute to haze in a cider or fruit beer, especially if the fruit or juice was heated. Adding pectic enzymes will help break apart the pectins into simpler sugars and clarify the brew. The enzymes can be added after, as J was wondering.  As the enzymes break up the pectin, more sugars will become available to the yeast and fermentation will pick up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other answers seem to be talking about beer fining, post fermentation. This fining serves to clarify beer from protein haze after fermentation, as Herb suggests.  Fining with gelatin or isinglass does not help with haze produced by pectin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="301" LastEditorUserId="301" LastEditDate="2010-11-21T01:48:48.520" LastActivityDate="2010-11-21T01:48:48.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="748" CreationDate="2010-11-21T02:46:00.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can find stoppers at your local HBS that fit them, you can use them for yeast starters or small test batches. Since it's clear glass though, you might be better off getting your deposit back from whole foods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without a good cap and UV protection, they're not much use for bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-21T02:46:00.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="747" CreationDate="2010-11-21T14:05:14.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pasteurize (bring the must to 165 for about 15 minutes).  I haven't had a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-11-21T14:05:14.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="747" CreationDate="2010-11-21T17:00:58.327" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general recommendation from award winning meadmakers is to use neither heat nor campden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-21T17:00:58.327" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="748" CreationDate="2010-11-21T17:02:05.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not use milk bottles for bottling.  They can't withstand the pressure from carbonation and will be likely to explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-21T17:02:05.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="325" CreationDate="2010-11-21T17:03:53.423" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give your cider time and it will clear on its own.  A month is a really short time to be worrying about it.  I typically give mine 1-2 months in primary, then up to 6 months more in secondary.  They're crystal clear every time.  You need to think of cider more like wine than beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-21T17:03:53.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="766" CreationDate="2010-11-21T18:57:34.793" Score="5" ViewCount="3051" Body="&lt;p&gt;When crafting an original recipe, how do brewers determine the length of time at each stage of fermentation?  Obviously, several factors weigh in, including the exact composition of the wort, the amount of yeast added, the temperature, etc., but do you use the gravity alone to determine whether it's done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, what are the signs that a beer is done with a secondary fermentation, and that it is ready to be bottled or kegged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="177" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T17:46:25.547" Title="How is the length of each fermentation determined?" Tags="|primary|recipe-formulation|secondary|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="755" CreationDate="2010-11-21T20:04:19.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only brewed Ales, so that's what I can speak to, but I always ferment 10-14 days. The fermentation is usually complete within 3-4, that is to say, the gravity has dropped the expected amount*. However, I've found that after that initial 3-4 days the yeast continues to do a little work. As a result I simply leave it alone for 2 weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally I will rack to a secondary vessel for extended aging or to add more fermentables, like fruit, but that is always recipe specific. I don't know of a sure rule to figure out the secondary time; it's dependent on the reason for secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Expected amount is a function of the original gravity and the yeast attenuation, or percentage of sugar the particular yeast strain is supposed to consume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-21T20:04:19.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="755" CreationDate="2010-11-21T22:57:06.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to tell when fermentation is complete is to take gravity readings.  You should be able to calculate what the gravity should be when fermentation is complete, based on the original gravity and the attenuation factor of your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, just take gravity readings every so often (maybe every day, or every other day), and watch how the readings change.  If fermentation seems stuck, and the gravity readings are not dropping, even though you aren't close to your target, you may want to consider re-pitching, since that could indicate that the yeast is bad.  I have also noticed a stuck fermentation becomes un-stuck after I rack to a secondary vessel; I think it is just restarted by shaking things up, and getting the yeast that had settled out back into the mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-11-21T22:57:06.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="764" CreationDate="2010-11-22T00:11:58.897" Score="4" ViewCount="4398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my twin corny-keg setup in the garage in a refrigerator. The fridge kept it about 34 F degrees all summer, and I had the CO2 dialed just right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, it dropped down to about -5 F and my beer froze inside the refrigerator. (Not solid - but it turned &quot;slushy&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought the keg inside, and it's at about 43 degrees now. When I try to pour a beer all I get is foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just because it's too &lt;em&gt;warm&lt;/em&gt; now? Or did freezing it affect the beer (and it's CO2 absorption) in a bad way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to fix this, and get my keg flowing again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T03:47:33.213" Title="Help! My homebrew keg froze, I brought it in, and now the beer is all foam." Tags="|kegs|kegging|foam|frozen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-22T01:31:56.423" Score="1" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/336/what-is-the-minimum-amount-of-equipment-to-dabble-in-all-grain&quot;&gt;What is the minimum amount of equipment to dabble in All-Grain?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering working on my first all-grain brew batch. What are the bare essentials of equipment to do all-grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I was surprised that I didn't find a comprehensive answer to this question here -- though I have some good how-tos on other sites. If I just missed a question already posted, just let me know!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="296" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:47:43.987" Title="Basic equipment needed for all grain brewing" Tags="|equipment|all-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2010-11-22T13:45:59.470" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="765" CreationDate="2010-11-22T01:51:57.197" Score="6" ViewCount="699" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happened to do my grain shopping at a LHBS that I don't usually shop at yesterday, I was going to make a bunch of a light lager.  They didn't carry flaked rice though, so I had to double back to to my regular LHBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I have just gone to a grocery store and go plain white rice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T12:28:36.847" Title="Flaked rice vs. Uncle Ben" Tags="|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="763" CreationDate="2010-11-22T01:54:16.697" Score="5" ViewCount="5078" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my first stuck mash today.  It ended up not being a huge problem since I had 10 gallons to sparge before I hit my target volume, but it kind of threw off my temperature calculations since I wasn't able to drain as much as I wanted before sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some methods for unclogging a stuck mash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T03:30:01.707" Title="How do I fix a stuck mash?" Tags="|mashing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="759" CreationDate="2010-11-22T01:57:50.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a dupe, &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/336/what-is-the-minimum-amount-of-equipment-to-dabble-in-all-grain&quot;&gt;What is the minimum amount of equipment to dabble in All-Grain?&lt;/a&gt;, but I figure I'll throw in my 2 cents again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bare minimum you need is a big filter, you can mash-in-a-bag.  However, I recommend spending the few extra buck and putting together a semi decent mash tun.  Once you see how easy and fun all-grain brewing is, you probably won't look back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[edit]: vote to close, but I figured an answer would be more helpful than just the close vote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T02:03:24.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="761" CreationDate="2010-11-22T03:30:01.707" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes just blowing into your hose connected to the mash tun is enough to get the mash unstuck.  (When brewing on a larger scale, you can inject it with compressed air.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your next option, should that not fix things, would be to increase the temperature of the mash.  Since most homebrewers mash in plastic coolers, directly adding heat often isn't an option, but if you've reached starch conversion and don't mind disabling your enzymes, you can hot water - as hot as boiling.  Be careful though: If you add too much water, then the mash will be diluted and you won't be able to sparge and still make your target gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still not flowing?  You can try stirring the hot water in to circulate it, but keep in mind you'll have to recirculate the wort for a while after you stop stirring so that you'll have a good grain bed that filters out particles.  As you stir, make sure to scrape the manifold to clear any grain that might be clogging it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it flows again, make sure to keep your drain/sparge rates slow so that the grain bed isn't disturbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all else fails, you may have to pour your mash through a strainer or colander to extract the wort.  Try to minimize splashing, as hot side oxidation can occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easier to take steps to prevent a stuck sparge than it is to try to unstick one, and there are plenty of steps that can help avoid one, but that's a whole new question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T03:30:01.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="758" CreationDate="2010-11-22T03:47:33.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Freezing and thawing tends to force CO2 out of solution, but relax - the beer is probably fine.  You should be able to remix the ice and beer after everything is thawed, and readjust your carbonation with no trouble.  The beer should taste the same after your carbonation issue is fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RDWHAHB!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, the foam is likely a result of heating.  For a given pressure, only around 85% as much CO2 can be dissolved in beer at 43°F as compared to 34°F.  The remaining 15% CO2 is trying to come out of solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the foaming, either rechill to 34° or lower the keg pressure. If you have a bleeder value on top of your keg, you can vent here; otherwise, disconnect the gas-side quick connect and bleed some pressure.  Briefly vent, wait for foam to settle, and repeat if needed until you've reached the desired pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, you just reinvented the eisbock. =)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T03:47:33.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="760" CreationDate="2010-11-22T04:15:54.740" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fine to add any kind of rice to the mash, but the rice must be cooked to make the starches dissolvable and digestable by the amylase enzymes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use minute rice, it's already been cooked, so it can be added directly to the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T04:15:54.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="755" CreationDate="2010-11-22T04:33:53.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When brewers are experimenting with new recipes, they generally have an expectation of time to complete primary fermentation based on experience with similar recipes.  As you hinted, and as pkeading mentioned, gravity readings should be taken to confirm proper attenuation.  After three consecutive days with no change in gravity (and assuming the gravity is close to the target FG), the beer can be racked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast metabolism is a function of temperature, so fermentations in the upper range of a yeast's allowable range will be shorter, as will fermentations with a lower starting gravities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally yeast pitch rate isn't a factor, as most brewers won't deliberately underpitch or overpitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary fermentation time is more of an art and less of a science.  If during secondary, other flavors are added, such as dry hopping or oak aging, then the additive tends to dictate time in this stage.  Generally, 2-3 weeks is typical for homebrewed ales, and lagers are often conditioned longer.  Strong beers benefit more from increased time in secondary as well.  The best way to tell if a beer is ready for bottling or kegging is to taste a sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T04:33:53.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="310" CreationDate="2010-11-22T04:54:35.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerSmith&lt;/a&gt; installed in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dropbox.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DropBox&lt;/a&gt; folder. Works great for keeping my recipes, records, stock etc. synced between by computers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T04:54:35.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="262" CreationDate="2010-11-22T05:44:28.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My primary motivation was to have more choices in what contributes to the flavor of my beer. I only brewed two extract beers before I started all-grain, because I found the extract choices extremely limiting. I've taught several friends to brew since, and have never started with extract. None of them regret it, and none have had any interest in reducing the brew time for its own sake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My secondary motivation (related to the first) was to be &quot;closer&quot; to the process of brewing. I took an interest in home brewing because I wanted to produce the kinds of beer that &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; want to drink. I have more involvement in what I'm brewing when I use &quot;raw&quot; ingredients. (Yes, I realize that I'll have even more control in this respect when I begin making my own malts, or even growing my own ingredients.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T05:44:28.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-22T12:17:16.067" Score="9" ViewCount="3571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a strong scotch ale.  Bottled it up, 2 weeks later no carbonation.  Is there a way to save this batch?&#xA;OG 1.095, &#xA;Used Safale US-05, &#xA;2 weeks in primary, &#xA;6 weeks in secondary, &#xA;FG 1.030, &#xA;I used corn sugar to prime and I was pretty careful to mix it.&#xA;I stored the bottles at 60 degrees for 2 weeks after I bottled (I know, too cool)&#xA;I have now moved them to 70 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the storage in the warm doesn't produce carbonation, what would you do next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Bill Goetz" LastEditorUserId="981" LastEditDate="2011-05-04T00:56:17.393" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T00:56:17.393" Title="High-gravity beer stored too cold to carbonate during bottle conditioning. How can I carbonate this beer?" Tags="|carbonation|temperature|bottle-conditioning|priming|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="769" CreationDate="2010-11-22T13:11:33.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;60f shouldn't be cold enough to kill the yeast, but cold enough to slow it down drastically. If the beer tasted fine prior to bottling, it should be OK after a couple of weeks at 70f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T13:11:33.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-22T14:52:26.153" Score="7" ViewCount="1756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I already own a Country Living Grain Mill for making flour and want to start crushing my own grain for my homebrew. Will this style of mill work for homebrew or should I buy a mill specially for homebrew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T22:34:33.273" Title="Can I use my Country Living Grain Mill for homebrewing?" Tags="|equipment|grain|all-grain|mill|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="771" CreationDate="2010-11-22T15:21:40.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you able to adjust the mill, so that it can mill more coarsely than you would want for flour?  If so, I think you should be all set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When brewing all grain, you want a pretty coarse grind; you essentially just want to crack the kernels open, rather than pulverize them.  This leaves the husks in tact, and they serve as a filter bed during the sparge process.  If you grind too finely, you can end up with a stuck sparge, where the wort doesn't flow through the grain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine if you filled a colander with flour, and then tried to pour water through it.  Likely, very little water, if any, would make it through.  That is the situation you are trying to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T15:21:40.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="775" CreationDate="2010-11-22T15:38:39.447" Score="6" ViewCount="2666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what other peoples' experiences are with krausen at the start of fermentation.  I've had some beers that have bubbled along happily without producing huge amounts of foam, and others that seem like they'll neve stop spuming.  This weekend we started a stout and I installed a small plastic airlock.  By 7 AM the next morning there was krausen up through the airlock, down the sides of the carboy, and trickling away in a tiny stream.  I cleaned everything up and switched to a larger diameter hose with its end in a bucket of water so the foam had somewhere to go, but there seems to be substantial quantities of wort being lost by this (I'd estimate 1/3 gallon in this case).  Are there things I can do to control this?  Are there ingredients, or styles of beer, or strains of yeast that tend more towards producing big, frothy krausen?  How are other people dealing with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T17:47:52.250" Title="Krausen During Primary" Tags="|foam|krausen|primary-fermentation|airlock|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="769" CreationDate="2010-11-22T16:00:11.893" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a beer that strong, you probably should have repitched at bottling.  There are several factors that the yeast must fight in this situation, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high alcohol strength - almost 10% ABV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cool temperature - the bottom two degrees of the yeast's fermentation range&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;long settling time - six weeks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's good news, though.  That strain should be able to tolerate alcohol around 12%, and that strain has low-medium flocculation, so there should be enough viable yeast in your bottles to repopulate and consume the priming sugar.  It will just take some time for the yeast to work in such a harsh environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always see slow carbonation times when I bottle condition with such strong beers.  Four weeks is not uncommon, and that's at 68°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave your beer at 70°F and check a bottle weekly - and wait two weeks on the first bottle if you can afford it, since it will need as much time as you can give it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be surprised if the brew didn't carbonate in another 3-4 weeks, but should that be the case, you may have to pour them back into a carboy and repitch yeast (a more robust strain like champagne yeast) before rebottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T16:00:11.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="773" CreationDate="2010-11-22T16:29:31.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A healthy fermentation with a strong yeast will tend to produce a larger krausen. You're right about the strain of yeast being a big player, but the best thing you can do is increase your fermentor head space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the obvious answer is best: either use a larger carboy or smaller volume of wort.  You can also get a little help by fermenting cooler to slow yeast metabolism, but this will affect the flavor profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there are silicon defoamers like Fermcap and Foamtrol that will help - if you don't mind breaking the Reinheitsgebot.  Personally, I don't like chemical additives, but they're FDA-approved and many homebrewers swear by them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-11-22T17:39:26.877" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T17:39:26.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="773" CreationDate="2010-11-22T16:43:48.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest using a &lt;strong&gt;pail&lt;/strong&gt; for a primary instead of a carboy.  There seems to be a bit of a Canada/US cultural difference here.  I think most Canadian homebrewers would consider the term &quot;primary fermenter&quot; to refer to a large food-grade bucket.  The ones we commonly use here are about 40 litres, giving plenty of head-space for a 23-litre batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T16:43:48.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="755" CreationDate="2010-11-22T17:46:25.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To hit your second question, secondary fermentation is a subjective stage of the beer.  Once it is done in the primary, you have beer.  The time in secondary is to get the beer to taste how you want.  So, sample the beer, bottle/keg it when you like it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T17:46:25.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="773" CreationDate="2010-11-22T17:47:52.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a product out there called Fermcap-S.  You drop a drop or two into the boil or primary and it prevents foam buildup.  The ingredients are insoluble and don't seem to affect the flavor or head-retention of the finished product.  The ingredients settle out during fermentation.  From my experience it works great.  I don't even have to watch the boil for boil-overs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It comes in a small eyedropper bottle and you can probably find it at your LHBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T17:47:52.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="771" CreationDate="2010-11-22T19:31:48.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A grain mill that is appropriate for crushing barley for a mash is typically referred to as a grist mill.  The mill needs to be set 'open' enough that the husk of the barley seed will crack open, but will not be torn apart.  This is due to the need to use the husks as the filtration media during the sparge.  A typical grist mill can be opened to a gap of at least 0.070&quot;.  See this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/monster-mill-mm2-2-roller-mill.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mill&lt;/a&gt; at Northern Brewer for a typical example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T19:31:48.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="829" CreationDate="2009-12-03T23:56:01.663" Score="9" ViewCount="19476" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Imperial Stout I recently bottled, smells a little fruity, and has a strong tart taste up front. &#xA;Is this something I should be patient with, as it may go change?&#xA;And, how'd it happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T13:25:49.343" Title="Why does my beer smell like bananas?" Tags="|stout|banana|aroma|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="780" CreationDate="2009-12-04T00:00:32.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of reasons your beer might have a banana aroma and tart taste. The main answer is &quot;esters&quot;. You can get esters because of a hot fermentation (over 75˚ or so), or also because of a lack of oxygen in the wort during fermentation (low aeration). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flavor might go down a little over time, but probably not too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2009-12-04T00:00:32.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1210" CreationDate="2009-12-04T22:11:47.153" Score="8" ViewCount="2850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to start corking some of my more delicate brews. Is there a reason to switch to corking? Certain styles?&#xA;And, is it difficult/recommended for a small setup?&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T20:20:36.407" Title="What about corking beer?" Tags="|cork|bottling|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="782" CreationDate="2009-12-05T03:05:15.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have first hand experience. but since the site is new and some content is better than none I'd pontificate a bit.  You will need or at least want a floor corker to be able to put in champagne corks they take a lot of pressure.  Other than the presentation of a cool ass corked bottle there is little reason to cork beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be worth looking into oxygen infiltration between crown caps and corks. I'm not sure which is better.  I didn't find any info after a couple of searches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="325" LastActivityDate="2009-12-05T03:05:15.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-10T13:18:58.053" Score="46" ViewCount="50402" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just curious what most brewers are using these days as far as software goes.  We are going to have to make a decision in the near future about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BeerSmith?&lt;Br&gt;&#xA;ProMash?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;BeerTools?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Any others I haven't heard of?&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-23T15:09:16.593" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T09:29:59.183" Title="What software do most brewers use?" Tags="|software|beer-tools|" AnswerCount="33" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="794" CreationDate="2009-12-10T15:18:58.393" Score="41" ViewCount="115184" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the maximum amount of time for primary fermentation, assuming the beer is going straight to bottles next?&#xA;Will it over ferment and then fail to carbonate, if left too long in a carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2021-04-29T11:28:32.220" LastActivityDate="2023-02-14T06:49:11.423" Title="Too long in Primary Fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|beer|techniques|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2009-12-10T17:48:25.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Beer Tools Pro. It's sleek, which I appreciate, and it seems to do all that I need right now. Which isn't much. I'd like to hear some opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I'd really like to see is recipe scaling. Going from my 5 gallon to some number with a bbl after it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T17:48:25.810" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2009-12-10T18:00:28.873" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use BeerSmith. It has a ton of handy tools (including a recipe scaling feature, PJ). There's a trial version if you want to try it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="326" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T18:00:28.873" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="886" CreationDate="2009-12-10T18:14:09.207" Score="8" ViewCount="2922" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to use an ale pail with a spigot for my secondary. It makes it super easy to test the gravity before actually bottling/kegging/etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that sort of installation in plastic can open the process up to contamination, more so than other routes. Of course, opening the lid and putting a turkey baster in there isn't so safe either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some solutions for testing gravity in the secondary without opening up the container fully? What are your thoughts on a spigot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T23:33:58.997" Title="Spigots: What's the consensus" Tags="|fermentation|contamination|equipment|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2009-12-10T18:14:21.173" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most calculations I do by hand &amp;amp; keep my recipes in a log book.  Yet to see how well that scales.  For IBU calculations I use Beer Calculus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&quot;&gt;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T18:14:21.173" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2009-12-10T18:19:33.883" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had beers in the primary bucket for as long as a 5 weeks (busy, lazy, whatever), and never had a carbonation problem in bottles or kegs, upon addition of priming sugar. There will always be live yeast hanging around. Never had real problems with off-flavors from sitting on the trub for too long either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there are any hard-and-fast rules, but I do try to get it into the secondary in 1-2 weeks, if it's a big beer. For a regular session beer, it goes to bottling/kegging after 4-5 days anyway, as soon as fermentation is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T18:19:33.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="782" CreationDate="2009-12-10T18:23:17.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;BYO magazine had an article about corking a couple issues ago. Like unknown said, there's no real reason, other than presentation of a great beer. A tripel clone I made over the summer would have been a perfect candidate, if I felt like putting in the time/expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the corker (I also make wine), but I would have had to buy bottles, and that's too expensive for a whim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T18:23:17.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2009-12-10T18:32:47.587" Score="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;It takes three to nine days for yeast to ferment a typical wort.  After yeast consumes all the available food (or produces too much toxic alcohol) it goes into a dormant stage, flocculates and drops out of suspension.  At this point it does not produce alcohol or CO2.  Priming sugar is used to give the yeast a little more fuel so they will wake up and carbonate the bottle.  This means that you can not over-ferment your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not transfer my beer from primary.  You can leave them for months with little flavor impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T18:32:47.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="837" CreationDate="2009-12-10T18:33:46.827" Score="16" ViewCount="6777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this to be the most difficult part during my first attempt at brewing.  All I had was a tube and a racking cane.  Is there anything else to simplify the process and prevent me from ending up with almost a full beer on my kitchen floor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="335" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2009-12-10T19:56:08.780" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T23:32:01.773" Title="Are there tools that can make the bottling process easier?" Tags="|bottling|equipment|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-13T01:11:09.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="795" CreationDate="2009-12-10T18:38:59.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried a couple extra tools, but found that most auto-siphons aren't worth the plastic they're made of.&#xA;In the end, moving your beer to an ale pale with a spigot (to pour from into bottles), is the best thing you can do with a simple set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T18:38:59.220" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-13T01:11:09.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="795" CreationDate="2009-12-10T18:43:53.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put my beer in an ale pail with a spigot. (see my &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/790/spigots-whats-the-consensus&quot;&gt;question about spigots&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's super easy to just open the spigot, fill the bottle, and close the spigot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also generally have a pail with sani in it, so I dip, pour, fill, cap, repeat. Makes it much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T23:32:01.773" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-13T01:11:09.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="835" CreationDate="2009-12-10T18:44:05.143" Score="4" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I moved to a new area without an existing homebrew club.  We've been around for about 18 months now and I'd like to start doing some official stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sudzers.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Sudzers&lt;/a&gt;, my previous club charged $20 a year to be an official member.  I'm not entirely sure what they paid for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you pay club dues?  What do they go to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-24T20:40:40.887" Title="What are your homebrew club dues?" Tags="|club|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-11T21:37:42.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="795" CreationDate="2009-12-10T18:51:13.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Switch to kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But seriously, check out the spring loaded &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view%5Fproduct/6949/102304/Bottle%5FFiller%5Fwith%5FRemovable%5FSpring%5F3%5F8%5Fin.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bottling wand&lt;/a&gt;. Also a racking cane clip to hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T18:51:13.903" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-13T01:11:09.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="790" CreationDate="2009-12-10T18:53:43.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a spigot on one of my better bottles and it is convenient, but only if you have a full set of accessories to go along with it.  The whole point of their stuff is closed transfers.  I think it's ok as long as you are aware of the potential issues and are vigilant about cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as getting hydro samples, a sanitized turkey baster works as does a wine thief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="336" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T18:53:43.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="795" CreationDate="2009-12-10T18:59:02.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just picked up a counter pressure filler.   Will allow me to keg the beer and carbonate to a specific level without hassling with a bottling bucket or priming sugar.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Travis" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T18:59:02.713" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-13T01:11:09.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="798" CreationDate="2009-12-10T20:26:07.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;$20 in January. $30 the rest of the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="olllllo" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T20:26:07.410" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-11T21:37:42.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="795" CreationDate="2009-12-10T20:29:17.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a spring loaded bottling wand at the end of a tube from the spigot on my bottling bucket.  Sometimes I get leaks.  I'm considering racking directly to a keg next time and doing nothing but kegerators.  Could save a lot of time and washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="340" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T20:29:17.987" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-13T01:11:09.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="790" CreationDate="2009-12-10T20:32:18.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a better bottle for my secondary and bought myself a wine thief.  It can be sanitized and quickly dipped into the secondary for a test.  Sure, it opens up air getting in, I'm not so much worried about that with small 5 gallon batches, but if I were doing larger batches then I'd want to have another method to extract samples without adding in more air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="340" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T20:32:18.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2009-12-10T20:35:30.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read where there is a risk of adding some off flavors if you let your beer sit in the primary fermenter too long.  Typically when you see that there isn't any bubbling or activity for a day then consider racking to a secondary or going to the bottling bucket and add priming sugar.  Or if you don't want to worry about bottle conditioning, consider kegging your beer and force CO2 into it.  No worries about carbonation then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="340" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T20:35:30.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-10T20:39:48.867" Score="8" ViewCount="15212" Body="&lt;p&gt;My last beer went through a normal 10-day fermentation process and afterwards there was no activity.  I assumed that most of the sugars had been consumed.  But after I bottled my beer and let it carbonate in the bottle for 6 weeks - the taste was still too sweet.  Did I use too much base malt or perhaps the yeast gave up too soon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="340" LastActivityDate="2019-03-30T02:19:53.037" Title="Fermentation stopped but beer seems too sweet - why?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|sweetness|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="795" CreationDate="2009-12-10T20:48:18.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too dislike the bottling process the most.  It's easily the most labor intensive.  Aside from what others have said the biggest helps I have found are - friends.  Get one person per station (ie rinse bottle - sanitize bottle - fill bottle - cap it - label it) and it goes much fast.  I know I know - duh - but it just goes that much faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T20:48:18.083" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-13T01:11:09.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="790" CreationDate="2009-12-10T20:53:34.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah I don't see much way around it for the batch size.  I have always just used a 5 gallon better bottle for my secondary ferm and just took the cap off and used a wine-thief that was sanitized.  Never had a problem.  Personally I don't pour the beer back into the batch when done - I tend to taste it so maybe that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then just siphon the beer into a bottling bucket on bottling day and use the spigot on that to do the actual bottle filling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, knock on wood, I haven't had a problem or contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I move up to larger batches I will be looking into plastic conicals.  (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tank-depot.com/product.aspx?id=854&quot;&gt;http://www.tank-depot.com/product.aspx?id=854&lt;/a&gt;)  In theory I would add a port about 6 inches up from the bottom to use for this type of stuff, but not sure how that will work.  Wont know till I try I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T20:53:34.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2009-12-10T20:56:38.070" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had mine in there for 3 weeks probably max.  I tend to follow the 1-2-3 rule and that's 1 in the primary - 2 in the secondary and 3 in the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast don't &quot;die&quot; they just go dormant so when you add some fuel (ie sugar) they will get active again until they have burned that up and thus carbonate the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real reason I even move to a secondary is out of probably an unfounded fear of off flavors from the beer sitting on all those proteins etc, but to be honest it's probably not really necessary.  It's more of me just wanting to mess with it and not having the patience to leave it alone for 2-3 weeks haha.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T20:56:38.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="806" CreationDate="2009-12-10T21:09:27.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on a number of factors, beginning with the malts you choose.  Sounds like this was an all-grain brew, no?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is your recipe?  Some malts give more unfermentables.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What temperature(s) did you mash at. Temperatures favoring alpha amylase (154-162°F) produce more unfermentable sugars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What yeast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What was the fermentation temperature?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T21:09:27.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="798" CreationDate="2009-12-10T21:19:46.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a member of The Impaling Alers in Kent, WA (Seattle). Dues are due each January, and prorated if you join mid-year. I think it's $15 or $20/year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="342" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T21:19:46.397" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-11T21:37:42.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="790" CreationDate="2009-12-10T22:04:58.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contamination should not be a worry if your on top of your cleaning and sanitation. I would be more concerned about exposure to oxygen if your using a bucket for a secondary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the better bottle have a spigot that can be rotated to be above sediment. A set up like that seems to be your best option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="SlovakBrewer" LastActivityDate="2009-12-10T22:04:58.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="816" CreationDate="2009-12-11T02:05:09.290" Score="12" ViewCount="9050" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you happen to be out of priming sugar, but really want to bottle your beer, what are the alternatives? Let's assume a 5 gallon batch that's fully fermented - call it 1.010-1.014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2017-07-15T22:31:07.100" Title="Alternatives for priming sugar" Tags="|fermentation|conditioning|priming-sugar|alternatives|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="815" CreationDate="2009-12-11T05:46:04.657" Score="20" ViewCount="5780" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you buy beer that you plan to keep for a while (a while being more than a month or so), what's the best way to store it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, what are the rules for storing it cold or warm, on it's side or upright, and any other considerations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T03:04:47.667" Title="How to store beer" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="814" CreationDate="2009-12-11T16:12:29.937" Score="17" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep out of the light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cooler the better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store upright&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully choose beers to store&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be patient&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two major beer spoilers: &lt;strong&gt;light&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;oxygen&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not much you can do about O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; getting into the bottle except seal the cap with wax.  I recommend this for very long term storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lightstruck beers take on a &quot;skunky&quot; character - if you want to experience this, leave a bottle of Corona in the sun for a few hours.  The wavelengths of light that cause skunking are emitted by the sun and florescent lights.  Incandescent lights do not cause skunking so us those in your cellar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat is another consideration.  For every 10&amp;deg;C rise in temperature catalytic reactions double in speed.  Such reactions take place as the beer matures; some of them are good and some of them cause flavor instability.  I keep my cellar around room temperature in the summers (75&amp;deg;F) and it gets down into the forties or fifties in the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wine bottles are stored on their side to keep the corks wet. Dry corks shrink and allow oxygen into the bottle.  Capped beers should be set upright to keep the sediment at the bottom and, in rare cases of old beers, to keep the cap from rusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most beers are not meant to be cellared, so pick ones that will survive the duration.  Alcohol is the best indicator of shelf life in this case, so choose high strength beers.  Hoppiness will decrease and malt sweetness will mellow.  Vinous and/or sherry flavors will develop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always keep in mind that cellaring a beer will usually not make it better, but will make it different.  Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewbubbas.com/Site/Brew%5FBubbas%5FRadio/Entries/2009/4/15%5FEpisode%5F65%5F-%5FStarting%5Fa%5FBeer%5FCelar.html&quot;&gt;episode 65&lt;/a&gt; of Brew Bubbas Radio for a good episode on cellaring. Some of my experiences follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last week I opened a year old bottle of Sam Adams Imperial Pilsner.  The hop aroma and most of the hop flavor was gone, but it still had a great Hallertau bitterness. It also had a pleasant sherry tone that does not exist in the fresh bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dogfish Head Palo Santo Maron changes little after a year, likewise with Sam Adams Chocolate Bock and Alaskan Smoked Porter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bigfoot Barleywine ages well, but with some vintages everything becomes muddled together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like DFH 120 Minute IPA better after at least a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-11T16:12:29.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="813" CreationDate="2009-12-11T16:20:20.367" Score="9" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corn syrup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regular olde sucrose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Malt extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brown sugar if you're desperate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewery.org/library/YPrimerMH.html&quot;&gt;A Primer on Priming&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-4.html&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-11T16:20:20.367" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="798" CreationDate="2009-12-11T16:35:34.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a member of Minnesota Home brewers and our dues are $15 per year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Brett Glenna" LastActivityDate="2009-12-11T16:35:34.680" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-11T21:37:42.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="814" CreationDate="2009-12-11T16:38:41.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If these are beers you do not intend to age, refrigeration is best.  Otherwise the coolest spot in your house (that won't freeze), covered up or in a box is good too.  Upright is preferred for beer.  Your main enemy is light and frequent temperature fluctuations.  If you can keep away from those two things your beer should do fine for several months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="336" LastActivityDate="2009-12-11T16:38:41.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="813" CreationDate="2009-12-11T16:41:47.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The next best option is DME.  You can use table sugar, some say it will give a &quot;cider&quot; flavor, others argue that point.  Honey works but is slow. Pretty much any fermentable will work, some more slowly than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="336" LastActivityDate="2009-12-11T16:41:47.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="813" CreationDate="2009-12-11T16:49:12.607" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be cautious of using corn syrup, it usually has salt and sometimes vanilla flavoring in it in addition to the actual corn sugar syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go with regular table sugar (sucrose), or malt extract if you have some to spare.&#xA;KOTMF has got a handy calculator to help you determine how much you should use: &lt;a href=&quot;http://kotmf.com/tools/prime.php&quot;&gt;http://kotmf.com/tools/prime.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2009-12-11T16:49:12.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="790" CreationDate="2009-12-11T16:57:02.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always use a glass carboy for secondary and usually use one for primary.  Until very recently I'd use a well sanitized GLASS turkey baster to take SG samples.  I recently picked up a wine thief and love it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="347" LastActivityDate="2009-12-11T16:57:02.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="813" CreationDate="2009-12-11T19:18:27.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old school method is to kräusen it.  You would add a portion of actively fermenting beer to your priming bucket.  You can also do this with plain wort, but the fresh and healthy yeast in actively fermenting beer has a few benefits... clean up diacetyl, acetylaldehyde, and other fermentation by-products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a formula for how much gyle to add: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/priming-using-gyle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;priming with gyle formula&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a calculator for how much gyle to add: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/gyle-and-krausen-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;priming with gyle calculator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastEditorUserId="13332" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T08:40:28.827" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T08:40:28.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="798" CreationDate="2009-12-11T21:26:16.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;$30 for the year for &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopbarley.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hop Barley and the Alers&lt;/a&gt;.  The dues primarily cover rent, but they also go to reimburse for club brews, food brought to the meeting (we serve dinner), as well as cover expenses for a couple of officers attending the NHC.  The membership fees don't entirely cover the costs however... a large portion of our money is made from a yearly auction and we make a minimal amount from our yearly competition, Reggale and Dredhop.  In the past we also printed and mailed our newsletters, but we stopped that and now just put it on the website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastActivityDate="2009-12-11T21:26:16.027" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-11T21:37:42.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2009-12-11T21:38:39.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left a cider in primary for 1 year... it turned out dry, crisp, and tart.  Definitely no autolysis, socks, meat flavors there, nothing for it to hide behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastActivityDate="2009-12-11T21:38:39.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="782" CreationDate="2009-12-11T21:42:49.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is primarily aesthetics thing... I've seen many meads that are sealed with a cork.  Also waxing the cork/crown can help with oxygen ingress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastActivityDate="2009-12-11T21:42:49.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="780" CreationDate="2009-12-11T21:50:56.350" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing that you used an English Ale yeast, then the most likely answer is that you fermented too hot.  Some restrained fruity esters are expected in nearly every ale, and the english ales definitely have them... banana is a bit unlikely one, and is usually only in styles like hefeweizens and tripels.  Next time try lowering your fermentation temps to closer to 65, and use a more neutral yeast like Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) which is a cleaner, less estery yeast strain.  Give that Imperial Stout some time though, higher alcohol beers can always benefit from some aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastActivityDate="2009-12-11T21:50:56.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="806" CreationDate="2009-12-11T21:57:33.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing this was actually an extract brew, so it's likely the wort was mostly fermentable.  In the future you can use a hydrometer to measure how much sugars are left in your beer...  then you can compare that number to an expected final gravity to make sure it really is time to bottle.  If you've got an underattenuated beer sitting in the bottle, you might prepare for a few bottle bombs should the fermentation kick back up.  It's amazing the loud explosion they make when they go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend bottling based solely on time and activity (or lack thereof).  You never know if you've gotten a stuck fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastActivityDate="2009-12-11T21:57:33.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="790" CreationDate="2009-12-11T22:30:27.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also for the most part you will have a blanket of CO2 on the top of the beer, most of the sugars have been fermented, as well as some amount of alcohol which will help to ward off a stray infection.  Sanitize your beer thief (I use the part of the auto-siphon as a thief) and relax, don't worry, have a homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastActivityDate="2009-12-11T22:30:27.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2009-12-11T23:12:52.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beersmith here.  It does everything I need.  The brewday instruction sheet you can print out is nice too.  Makes it easier to not forget steps/ingredients.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They all seem to have a bit of a learning curve.  You can download a free trial of Beertools, Beersmith and Promash.  So try them all and see which one you like best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Steph said, Beersmith has recipe scaling. Seems to work ok for 5&gt;10&gt;20 gallon - no first hand experience with larger size though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastActivityDate="2009-12-11T23:12:52.087" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-12T18:19:37.603" Score="7" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does everyone insist on smelling a beer before tasting it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, I don't want any preconceived notions about what it may or may not taste. You ever see a trailer for a movie and you think it's going to be awesome. Then you go see it and realize it's only so-so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aroma is a big factor, don't get me wrong, and adds to the total experience of a new beer. But I don't drink beer for the smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="355" LastEditorDisplayName="user8292" LastEditDate="2017-06-10T17:21:38.533" LastActivityDate="2017-06-10T17:21:38.533" Title="Why smell before tasting?" Tags="|taste|aroma|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="833" CreationDate="2009-12-12T18:39:07.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not drinking beer for the smell, you're missing out. Hops provide bitterness, flavor and aroma. I love the smell of a good IPA, just as much as the flavor. Aroma adds a dimension to beer, and can also change the way it tastes (usually for the better). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To take your analogy further, consider the aroma as DVD extras. Sure you can just watch the movie, but if you really loved it you can appreciate it at a deeper level by finding out why the director made certain choices, or what happened in a deleted scene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="356" LastActivityDate="2009-12-12T18:39:07.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="798" CreationDate="2009-12-12T18:43:39.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ann Arbor Brewers Guild is $15 per person per year, or $20 per couple per year.  Benefits are access to the club mailing list, access to club events, ability to participate in group ingredient buys, and ability to rent club equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="356" LastActivityDate="2009-12-12T18:43:39.410" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-12T18:43:39.410" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="839" CreationDate="2009-12-12T19:03:23.823" Score="8" ViewCount="588" Body="&lt;p&gt;What characteristics do you look for in a yeast to pair with your recipe?&#xA;Is there a common reference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T16:48:01.220" Title="How do you choose a yeast?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="795" CreationDate="2009-12-12T19:06:46.737" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a bottling bucket and a bottling wand, it should cost you less than $15 combined and will save you a ton of pain. Cut a small (2-3&quot;) piece of 3/8&quot; beverage tubing and connect the wand directly to the spigot on your bottling bucket, so that it looks like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BoBrY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that I put it over the dishwasher with the door open, the door will catch any spillage. Take sanitized bottle, raise to bottling wand, fill, and set it aside with a cap sitting on the top. Once you've done 6-12, cap a batch. Repeat until your bottling bucket runs empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="356" LastEditorUserId="356" LastEditDate="2009-12-16T18:09:14.980" LastActivityDate="2009-12-16T18:09:14.980" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-13T01:11:09.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="833" CreationDate="2009-12-12T19:11:27.357" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There may be a bit of tasting elitist that goes with smelling before tasting, but in my experience smell, aroma, and most importantly, oxygen is key to getting the full taste/&lt;strong&gt;experience&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not talking about smelling it, setting it back on the table, commenting to your buddy how you detect hints of cherries, then picking it back up and taking a big swallow (which has its merits).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean smelling and breathing as you taste the beer. Literally, as beer goes into your mouth, breathe (smell) in through your nose.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This may stray from your question, but it makes all the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2009-12-12T19:11:27.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="836" CreationDate="2009-12-12T19:16:00.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me some styles showcase yeast like Belgians, Hefes, some English styles, etc.  Others showcase malts or hops and yeast shouldn't play much of a role.  For me I generally stick with some clean ale yeast like 1056 or Pacman for IPA's, Blondes, etc.  And then obviously for something like a hefe I choose 3068.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I reference, if you car about style guidelines, look at the BJCP style guidelines for whatever your making.  They will usually mention what role yeast character should or should not play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="336" LastActivityDate="2009-12-12T19:16:00.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="798" CreationDate="2009-12-12T20:13:02.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;$15.  We have a fair number of club parties and events throughout the year so that's where most of it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastActivityDate="2009-12-12T20:13:02.927" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-12T20:13:02.927" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="795" CreationDate="2009-12-12T21:40:34.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using the spring loaded bottling wand I always make sure to pull apart the spring loaded part and soak all the little bits in sanitizing solution.  I have mine connected to the bottling bucket by a 1 inch piece of tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when I keg a batch and want a bottle, I don't wait for it to be carbonated, As soon as fill the keg, I immediately fill several bottles from the sanitized faucet.  I use Munton's carb tabs when I do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="347" LastActivityDate="2009-12-12T21:40:34.157" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-13T01:11:09.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="806" CreationDate="2009-12-12T21:44:14.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Until you post a recipe and hydrometer readings all I can do is guess that you didn't add enough hops to offset the malt sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="356" LastActivityDate="2009-12-12T21:44:14.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-12T21:57:49.143" Score="3" ViewCount="566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to do an all grain Witbier as one of my first AG brews. Bell's Winter White is a commercial example that I like, although I'm not necessarily looking to clone it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="356" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-02-10T17:13:06.380" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T03:34:37.310" Title="Do you have a good Wit recipe?" Tags="|recipe|all-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2009-12-13T12:34:26.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using the free open source app called BrewTarget. It works for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sourceforge.net/projects/brewtarget/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sourceforge.net/projects/brewtarget/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="xchristopherx" LastActivityDate="2009-12-13T12:34:26.897" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="836" CreationDate="2009-12-13T21:25:52.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally brew &quot;to style&quot;, meaning that when I make a beer I choose ingredients that match a particular style.  Right now I am drinking my Classic American Pilsner.  I drink enough beers to know, in general, the flavor characteristics I like in a beer and choose a yeast that produces them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing to style narrows your yeast choices.  When choosing a yeast for the CAP I reviewed the characteristics of the White Labs and Wyeast lager offerings.  I also listened to the Jamil Show's &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/The-Jamil-Show/American-Pilsner-The-Jamil-Show-05-22-06&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;episode&lt;/a&gt; on the style.  From the flavor profile descriptions I choose a yeast that best suits my taste (and fermentation capabilities).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When not brewing to style, such as my &lt;a href=&quot;http://midnighthourbrewery.blogspot.com/search/label/rye&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rye of the Hurricane&lt;/a&gt; recipe, I pick a yeast that compliments the flavors I want to get out of the beer.  I like British ales, so I often choose London Ale III from Wyeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some good advice, which I have yet to follow, is to really get to know a single strain of yeast. Brew a number of recipes with a single yeast. That way you know enough to make it produce the flavors you are looking for rather than choosing a yeast for the flavors it produces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2009-12-14T05:15:15.433" LastActivityDate="2009-12-14T05:15:15.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-14T16:11:53.090" Score="13" ViewCount="9794" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few Mr Beer extract kits left over from when I started this hobby. Can I ferment a 3 gallon recipe in a 5 gallon bucket? Will there be too much head space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Homebrew Holli" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T07:11:12.543" Title="Is a 5 gallon bucket too big for 3 gallon recipe?" Tags="|fermentation|bucket|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="846" CreationDate="2009-12-14T17:40:16.133" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine using a 5 gallon bucket, especially during primary fermentation. The CO2 produced should push out all the excess oxygen. In secondary, you might have a problem, but probably not unless you're leaving the beer in secondary for months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why only a 3 gallon recipe though? Go for broke with 5! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2009-12-14T17:40:16.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-14T23:31:50.493" Score="0" ViewCount="1701" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's your favorite thing you add to your brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chocolate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fruit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spices&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mostly interested in additives combined after primary fermentation, but flavors from any stage would be informative.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T10:09:13.717" Title="What are your favorite additives?" Tags="|additives|flavor|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-14T23:31:50.493" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="848" CreationDate="2009-12-15T00:47:09.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used too many additives yet, but I like spices a lot. My stout has caraway seeds in it, which are awesome. I add those to the mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't done it yet, but I'm excited to use coffee. I think a super fresh coffee flavor and aroma will be a lot of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also use dried chamomile, which was interesting. Turned out pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never ventured into fresh fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T00:47:09.557" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-15T00:47:09.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="856" CreationDate="2009-12-15T01:07:01.007" Score="4" ViewCount="3419" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's a good style or specific beer that would pair with mussels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T13:57:09.167" Title="Pairing with mussels" Tags="|pairing|food|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="850" CreationDate="2009-12-15T01:11:17.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gueuze! Mussels steamed in gueuze, accompanied by french fries and more gueuze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Barm" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T01:11:17.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="850" CreationDate="2009-12-15T01:11:29.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends how you're cooking them, but if it's brothy dish or they're being steamed, it's tough to go wrong with a good witbier, saison or tripel. Maybe Bruery Orchard White, Saison Dupont, or Tripel Karmeliet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Alex P Davis" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T01:11:29.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="850" CreationDate="2009-12-15T01:11:53.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belgian wit. Especially if the mussels are in a rich sauce, the spritzy carbonation of a wit will cut right through it and cleanse your palate between bites. Plus, pairing the delicate flavor of the wit will let the mussels shine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="326" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T01:11:53.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="850" CreationDate="2009-12-15T01:12:00.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had Moose Drool with mussels at Thomas Keller's Bouchon in Vegas and thought it was the perfect combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="kia" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T01:12:00.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="850" CreationDate="2009-12-15T01:12:56.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Sauvin Pilsner using Hallertau and sauvin hops. A good example is the Twisted Hop Sauvin Pils from NZ&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Brett" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T01:12:56.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="850" CreationDate="2009-12-15T01:16:52.670" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, mussels steamed in beer is FREAKING amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second off, the perfect pairing for mussels depends on the sauce in which they are prepared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mussels in white wine or wit beer sauce -- Flavor of mussels is light and delicate and need not be overpowered with extreme beer. This style goes best with a Wit Bier, Hefeweizen or a Saison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mussel marinara -- Tomato sauce is highly acidic and needs a beer with a higher hop content. I would go with a Pale Ale. If the marinara is spicy, I would go with an IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mussels in curry sauce -- Usually prepared with a cream (coconut) base. The heaviness of the cream and the spice of the curry makes this an excellent pairing with lighter styles -- such as a Czech Pilsners -- as well as maltier styles -- such as a Belgian Dubbel or Dobbelbach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt, the saison style is my favorite pair with mussels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="365" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T01:16:52.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="850" CreationDate="2009-12-15T13:57:09.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ever heard of an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beerhunter.com/documents/19133-001521.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;oyster stout&lt;/a&gt;?  The delicate, earthy flavor of mussels goes very well with a dry Irish stout or a porter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T13:57:09.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="848" CreationDate="2009-12-15T14:18:15.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually added spiced rum to the boil on my latest batch (a porter).  Its still in the bucket, so we'll see how that turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="366" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T14:18:15.267" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-15T14:18:15.267" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2009-12-15T15:44:18.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found an iPhone/iPod Touch app called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewpal.info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Pal&lt;/a&gt; that has been really great.  It is very convenient to be able to carry in my pocket and also take with me if I am brewing at a friends house.  The timers and calculators have been very helpful to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="366" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T15:44:18.623" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2009-12-15T16:01:55.487" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had one batch in the primary for about 3 months and it turned out great.  I was worried something &quot;wrong&quot; would happen but everything tasted great with no off flavors or anything out of the ordinary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="366" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T16:01:55.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="865" CreationDate="2009-12-15T16:06:08.790" Score="25" ViewCount="2382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious how everyone controls the temperature of their primary, especially those that live in the warmer climates.  In Florida, where the temperatures can soar and remain in the 90's and above for months, it can be a challenge to keep the house at what is considered &quot;acceptable&quot; temperature for fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="366" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:20:35.437" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T12:15:33.843" Title="Temperature Control for Fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|equipment|fermentation-temperature|primary|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="846" CreationDate="2009-12-15T16:37:02.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreed - I do 3 gallon batches in 5 or 6 gallon carboys all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As PJ notes, the only trick is going into secondary, since you have so much more room for oxygen in there.  If you can't put a blanket of CO2 into your fermenter to help keep the oxygen away from your wort, then at least make sure you're careful on transfer.  Don't splash it too much, because then you will be oxygenating your wort, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I almost always do 3 gallon batches, so cheers!  Don't give into pressure to do enormous batches!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T16:37:02.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="790" CreationDate="2009-12-15T16:39:15.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am still somewhat of a beginner/intermediate, but life seemed to get so much better when I started using a pail with a spigot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="366" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T16:39:15.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="836" CreationDate="2009-12-15T16:48:01.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a great reference for yeast and what characters they lend to beer that I use all of the time to figure out what flavors I want to incorporate into my brew from yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/resources/yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BYO Yeast Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in another life, I was working on making a searchable yeast database, but that site is now mostly defunct and out of date.  I still use that little app occasionally, though.  I can't post two links in a post right now, so I can't give you a link.  Maybe someday. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T16:48:01.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="861" CreationDate="2009-12-15T16:48:40.440" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wet t-shirt and swamp cooler method is probably insufficient for temperatures in the mid 90's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Controlling fermentation temperature is one of the best things you can do to make good beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Florida, the temperatures in East Texas get stupid-hot eight months out of the year.  Last year I built myself a duck-in cooler powered by a small window air conditioner.  I can get the temperatures down to the mid-sixties, and probably further if I take apart the AC's thermostat.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://midnighthourbrewery.blogspot.com/search/label/cooler&quot;&gt;my blog&lt;/a&gt; for details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fellow brewer recently donated a chest freezer to me and I had a Johnson Controls &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product%5Finfo.php?products%5Fid=1214&quot;&gt;external thermostat&lt;/a&gt;.  This combination is ideal for fermenting because the freezer fits a few carboys and the thermostat keeps the temperature within 3&amp;deg; F of your target.  I made my first (real) lager, a CAP, in the freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a &lt;a href=&quot;http://basicbrewingshop.com/index.php?main%5Fpage=product%5Finfo&amp;amp;cPath=2&amp;amp;products%5Fid=2&quot;&gt;Low Tech Lagering DVD&lt;/a&gt;.  I have not seen it yet, but I trust that James over at Basic Brewing Radio knows what he's talking about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2009-12-15T18:35:36.167" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T18:35:36.167" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="867" CreationDate="2009-12-15T17:05:27.117" Score="19" ViewCount="18663" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/846/is-a-5-gallon-bucket-too-big-for-3-gallon-recipe/&quot;&gt;Over here&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/324/pj&quot;&gt;PJ&lt;/a&gt; asked &quot;How do you differentiate primary to secondary if you keep it in the same bucket?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T06:33:58.893" Title="What's the difference between primary &amp; secondary fermentation?" Tags="|techniques|fermentation|secondary|primary|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2009-12-15T17:50:05.660" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/70vr1.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/70vr1.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Three phases of fermentation.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image from HowToBrew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than thinking about stages of fermentation I like to look at the lifecycle of yeast. There is a &lt;strong&gt;great&lt;/strong&gt; interview with David Logsdon from Wyeast on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=basic-brewing-radio-2007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;April 5, 2007 episode&lt;/a&gt; of Basic Brewing radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast cells bud in the presence of oxygen. Only yeast cells with a reserve of glycogen have the energy to bud and that glycogen supply is depleted after roughly four divisions.  The first thing that happens when you pitch healthy a vial of yeast into well-aerated wort is the consumption of available O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; with about a sixteen-fold (2&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;) growth of the yeast population.  There is not much visible activity at this point. It is generally known as the Lag Phase (called the Adaptive phase above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the oxygen is gone and the yeast is out of glycogen it starts consuming sugars to produce more energy. This phase is where it eats available sugar, pees alcohol and farts CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. Most people call this part primary fermentation and the wort is visibly active with carbon dioxide production, rising temperature and swirling trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the easy to eat sugars are removed from the wort and alcohol potentially rises to toxic levels the yeast switches from energy production to life preservation.  It stores glycogen for later budding (when O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; comes back), becomes inactive and drops out of solution.  Fermentation activity slows and appears to halt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though most of the yeast has flocculated at this point, some cells are survive and consume the more complex sugars.  As they do the beer &quot;conditions&quot; and continues to develop flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Brew - Fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beer-brewing.com/beer-brewing/brewers_yeast/yeast_life_cycle.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yeast Lifecycle in Brewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand reason for transferring beer from primary to secondary, which is to separate the beer from dormant yeast and trub.  Under the right conditions, yeast cells will undergo autolysis where the cell's enzymes begin to consume itself.  Nasty flavors develop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not transfer for a few reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've never experienced autolysis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You run the risk of introducing infection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I often don't have enough vessels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It eliminates a step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My beers turn out tasty (damn tasty) and (mostly) clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-03-27T06:33:58.893" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T06:33:58.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2009-12-15T17:51:28.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what most differentiates primary from secondary is the separation of beer from sediment, or at least the effort to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be other markers of the move from primary to secondary; like a transfer (which is the only way I know to separate the good stuff from yeast/sediment), additives, bottling, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, maybe more simply, the difference of secondary and even tertiary fermentation from primary could just be that a large majority of fermentation occurs in the first stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2009-12-15T17:51:28.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="861" CreationDate="2009-12-16T16:43:03.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Build a fermentaion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20070206150821/http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer/chiller/chiller.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://web.archive.org/web/20070206150821/http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer/chiller/chiller.PDF&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2009-12-16T16:43:03.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="795" CreationDate="2009-12-16T17:40:18.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;+1 for switching to kegs.  You can use grollers and use a blichmann bottle wand for bringing your brews to others. Kegging is very enjoyable, bottling is hell.  Plus you can control your CO2 volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2009-12-16T17:40:18.660" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-16T17:40:18.660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="833" CreationDate="2009-12-16T17:52:55.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without the sense of smell you can not taste.  Ever notice this when eatting something while having a cold.  OR hold your nose while drinking a beer, then let go and smell the aromas.  All of a sudden your taste buds jump to life.  Most of what you think you taste, you are actually smelling.  Aroma of beer is very important, as it wakes the taste buds up and gives you the full experience of the beer.  Don't beleive me, here's a link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://serendip.brynmawr.edu/exchange/node/1575&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://serendip.brynmawr.edu/exchange/node/1575&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2009-12-16T17:52:55.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="861" CreationDate="2009-12-16T17:55:16.367" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the cheapest solutions I have heard of is to immerse the carboy in a Rubbermaid water cooler filled with water. The water will act as a great insulator. To heat or cool to keep the temperature within the range you are looking for you can use a fish tank heater and ice packs. This method obviously means you will be needing to check on your beer quite often, but more so if you are trying to cool it with the ice packs (every 4 -6 hours). The heating part of it requires little attention, since you would get to set the thermostat. The thing that is most appealing about this solution to me is that it does not take up much more space than the carboy normally did. I have never actually done this, but the method was recommended to me by my local homebrew shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubbermaid water cooler $68: http:// www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-1610-01-11-DISC-10GAL-Orange-Cooler/dp/B00002N9F4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aquarium heater $22: http:// www.aquariumguys.com/ebojager4.html&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a more automated version of this solution: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/water-fermentation-chiller-81501/&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/water-fermentation-chiller-81501/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2009-12-16T17:55:16.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2009-12-16T18:02:13.437" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no complaints with Beersmith. I love the program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2009-12-16T18:02:13.437" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2009-12-16T18:12:18.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like using BeerSmith myself. I can't confirm this, but I have heard that some of the other software packages don't update as often. Scaling is pretty nice as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" LastActivityDate="2009-12-16T18:12:18.207" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="848" CreationDate="2009-12-16T18:20:41.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't actually used it yet, but I think chocolate extract is going to be my favorite. I'm in the process of making a Chocolate Oatmeal Stout. I will be adding 2 fluid ounces once it is in the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" LastActivityDate="2009-12-16T18:20:41.963" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-16T18:20:41.963" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-16T21:18:15.973" Score="12" ViewCount="9041" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain the difference in hop bitterness between alpha acids in my wort vs. beta acids bittering during aging?  And is it predictable enough to plan for in recipe formulation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-03-04T13:49:55.937" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T18:21:38.813" Title="Alpha acids vs. beta acids in aging?" Tags="|hops|aging|bitterness|alpha-acids|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-16T21:24:24.263" Score="17" ViewCount="1461" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a request for difficult questions, but having never brewed, this is all I've got:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you describe the most basic setup (preferably one with a reasonably low difficulty and high success rate) for a first time brewer?  Information on where to purchase and likely cost would also be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not limited to a specific type of beer, so a variety of answers are welcome.  Stout, ale, pilsner, IPA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are beginner's guides all over the internet, sure, but none of them are from This Trusted Resource.  ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="330" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:35:46.927" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:35:46.927" Title="First Time Homebrewer Setup" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="877" CreationDate="2009-12-16T21:45:55.057" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to go would be with an extract kit.  I find the best way to go is with a clone extract kit from AustinHomebrew.com.  Why?  Because if you do a clone of a beer you already know then you can evaluate how close you got.  Make sense?  Once you've done that once or twice then stop cloning and start adventuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You read all these stories about how quickly people went all-grain and all that stuff, disregard all that as it's mostly just bravado.  Extract kits can make a pretty damn good beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kits come with all the ingredients and ridiculously easy step by step directions.  They run on average probably about $30 and make 5 gallon batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For equipment I think I bought a kit from NorthernBrewer.com and was very happy with it.  A starter kit from a place like that will be good cause you know you will have everything you need.  Drop them an email and outline what you want to do and they will even customize the kit for you, that's what I did!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most fun in the beginning is what me and my buddies called &quot;making bottles&quot; and that involved drinking a lot of Sam Adams as those bottles seem to work the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is relax and have fun, it's really not all that hard!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2009-12-16T21:45:55.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="877" CreationDate="2009-12-16T22:14:38.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll echo what Entrebrewer said and then add in that if you have a local homebrew supply shop, it is an invaluable resource not only for supplies, but meeting and talking to other homebrewers, looking at what other people are doing, etc.  I find homebrewing to be a very fun and social hobby, and have spent hours in the shop just talking with people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="366" LastActivityDate="2009-12-16T22:14:38.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="877" CreationDate="2009-12-16T22:30:52.117" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just answered this question for a friend.  Means I get to cut'n paste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what your budget is... you can easily spend a few hundred dollars for a good kitchen setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Minimum:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A large pot. Stainless steel is best, but aluminum is cheap. At least 2 gallons. The bigger, the better. Best is 6 gallons so you can do a full-wort boil where you don't have to top off the fermenter with tap water. Boiling 5 gallons of wort on a kitchen stove is a big pain though, consider getting one of those turkey fryer burner deals. The one I used to have was a 7-gallon aluminum pot and a burner. Never did fry a turkey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fermenter. Go for the 6 gallon variety. I used glass carboys, but I have heard very good things about the Better Bottle. If I needed another (cheap) fermenter, I'd try one out. The homebrew shop will probably tell you need a primary &amp;amp; secondary fermenter, but that's a myth. I do my fermentations in a single vessel and make pretty good (damn good) beer. Politely decline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transfer tubing, bottling wand and a racking cane. Not too much to say here - the homebrew shop will know what you need. I recommend a stainless steel racking cane over a plastic one. It's worth the extra money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottles. Five gallons of beer fills a little fewer than fifty bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanitizer. Go for the &quot;no rinse&quot; variety. I switch between iodophor and 5-Star to keep the nasties on their toes. Buy in bulk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Testing equipment. A floating thermometer or a digital thermometer on a probe. Also a hydrometer and a cheap graduated cylinder to take specific gravity readings in. Long ago I ditched the cylinder &amp;amp; hydrometer in favor of a refractometer. Really worth the extra money (but maybe only if you've been using a hydrometer for a while :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wort chiller. After you're done boiling the wort you need to get it down to room temperature so you can toss in the yeast. The faster you do this the better. Immersion chillers are okay - they go in the kettle and you run cold water through them. Counter-flow chillers are good - they are a tube inside a tube where hot wort goes one way and cold water goes the other. Whirlpool chillers are also good, but you need an expensive pump. When I brewed in my various apartments I got a garden hose adapter for my sink because all the chillers use that fitting for the cold water. I made my first immersion chiller out of 50' of 3/8&quot; diameter soft copper tubing, some tubing, clamps and garden hose fittings. In the very beginning I cooled my wort by immersing the pot in cold water, but that takes &lt;em&gt;forever&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-16T22:30:52.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="876" CreationDate="2009-12-16T23:09:19.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll get you more details on this later (when I have my &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Designing Great Beers&lt;/a&gt; in hand). But, I'm pretty sure the levels of beta acids are negligible on a homebrew system. More to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2009-12-16T23:09:19.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="876" CreationDate="2009-12-16T23:16:19.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Processed hop pellets sold in vacuumed packages will last up to one years time, hop cones are much more unstable and typically do not keep longer than 9 months.   As hops age the level of α-acids decreases and level of β-acids increases, if you are strictly concerned with bittering capacity you want to focus on the α-acid amounts.  30-50% of the α-acid in the hop will isomerise during the boil and this will contribute to your beers bittering units.   β-acids will be destroyed during the wort boil and will not contribute to the bitterness of your beer unless you are cask conditioning.  Hops added after boil are traditionally used solely for their aromatic properties unless they are pre-isomerised and being used to produce a light stable product intended to be sold in a clear or green bottle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Adam" LastActivityDate="2009-12-16T23:16:19.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="876" CreationDate="2009-12-17T04:11:08.103" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a nice technical question involving some organic chemistry I do not comprehend.  I'll begin with what I do know about bittering contributions from alpha acid and beta acids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These acids are components of the hop cone and contribute to bitterness in slightly different ways.  The more familiar one is probably alpha acid since most hop bags are labeled with the percent of AA.  This number represents the percentage of the hop, by weight, that is composed of alpha acids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alpha acids do not actually contribute to bitterness until boiled in wort (or water even).  At this time the acids change form, lining up to become &lt;strong&gt;isomerized&lt;/strong&gt; alpha acid.  The process takes time, which is why bittering hops are boiled for at least 60 minutes.  iso-alpha acid is the main component of the bitter flavor in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beta acid, like alpha, almost immediately dissolves into solution when added to boiling wort.  However, unlike alpha acid, it does not isomerize and passes into the finished product unchanged.  In this form they do not contribute to beer's bitterness, but do lend aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During storage and aging (and in fermentation) the beer is exposed, to some degree, to oxygen.  Under these circumstances iso-alpha acid degrades and &lt;em&gt;loses bitterness&lt;/em&gt;.  When beta acid oxidizes it &lt;em&gt;transforms into a bitter-tasting compound&lt;/em&gt;.  On-balance the beer looses bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is little research into how this transformation affects the flavor stability of beer. What I have read is that hop varieties with at least twice as much alpha as beta acids generally keep their bitterness over time.  I know of no software or formula that takes the ratio and stability into account when calculating IBUs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further listening and reading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=basic-brewing-radio-2008&quot;&gt;March 20th, 2008&lt;/a&gt; Interview with John Palmer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Hop_chemistry&quot;&gt;Hop Chemistry&lt;/a&gt; on the Homebrewing Wiki&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hops&quot;&gt;Hops&lt;/a&gt; on Wikipedia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-03-04T01:15:46.447" LastActivityDate="2010-03-04T01:15:46.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="848" CreationDate="2009-12-17T16:39:19.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine made a great pale rye ale with spruce tips.  It was hoppy and spicy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T16:39:19.633" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-17T16:39:19.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="903" CreationDate="2009-12-17T16:42:05.310" Score="14" ViewCount="4758" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last weekend I brewed a super classic, nothing special stout. I plan to add coffee to it in the secondary, and didn't want any craziness from the stout itself so that I could really play with the coffee flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'm going to rack it into a bunch of growlers / 1 gallon jugs so that I can play with the coffee a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard that you shouldn't actually brew it, as this will add some acids and other super bitter things that you just don't want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this batch, I'm going for a super aromatic, super fresh coffee flavoring. But, I'm curious about coffee use in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some questions I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is a &quot;standard&quot; amount of coffee to use per gallon?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should the coffee be ground smooth, coarse, or just the beans (unground)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should it be in a hop bag or just thrown into the mix?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other thoughts on using coffee?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-01-17T15:02:10.360" Title="Using coffee in beer" Tags="|coffee|additives|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="790" CreationDate="2009-12-17T16:43:40.973" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an alepale with a spigot. I don't think I get infections from it but I'm a clean-freak.  I always take apart the spigot and soak it in 5-star.  They are a lot easier to use vs starting a siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T16:43:40.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="885" CreationDate="2009-12-17T17:52:24.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have added coffee to porter in the past. The most important thing was to cold brew the coffee, which helps to not release the acids you need to be worried about as well as minimizing oils. I just ground up a bunch of coffee, put it in a clean glass jar with some water and let it sit in the fridge over night. We got the coffee from a local coffee roaster, and they recommended the lowest acidity coffee they had. The amount added was 2 cups to a 5 gallon batch. The coffee was added to the bucket right before we bottled. I forget if we ran it through a coffee filter or not, but its probably not a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The toddy coffee maker was recommended to me a while back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toddycafe.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.toddycafe.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T17:52:24.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2009-12-17T18:24:20.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an iPhone, there's a $1 app called Brew Pal.  It works great for sparge calculations (strike temp and volume), grain bill, hop schedule.  You can even calculate the efficiency of your brew system.  You can also email the recipe to yourself after you've entered it all into the app.  Its great, and portable.&#xA;-Bryan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="375" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T18:24:20.887" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="814" CreationDate="2009-12-17T18:28:00.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep all of my beer stored in a Vinotemp wine cellar, that was converted to have shelves. All the beer is stored upright, and and 55 degrees. I was initially concerned with corks and wondering if I should lay the bottles down just like wine. I asked Lost Abbey and they said their beers are to be stored upright. The corks used are recycled cork and as they explained denser. After comparing the beer bottle corks to wine bottle corks this made sense. Laying down the bottles allows for more of the beer to be exposed to the air in the bottle. As far as the temperature goes I just chose 55 (I'm not sure why). To my understanding upping the temperature just increases the speed of the aging process. Here is a good article talking about how Dr. Bill and Matthew VandenBerghe do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nytimes.com/2008/06/25/dining/25beer.html?_r=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Lovers Make Room for Brews Worth a Wait&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T14:39:47.260" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T14:39:47.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="861" CreationDate="2009-12-17T18:28:18.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in Vegas and have the same challenge. During the summer my house is usually at or near 80 degrees inside. I intend to eventually move to a chest freezer and thermostat, but for now I use a low-dollar method similar to what Jordan recommended. I just put the carboy in a Rubbermaid storage bin (instead of a cooler), fill it half-way with water, then drape towels/rags/shirts over the exposed part of the carboy making sure both ends hang in the water. If normal evaporation isn't doing enough to keep the temp down I have a small fan that boosts the effect. Two problems: you have to make sure the water level doesn't drop too far and this may not work well in FL due to the high humdity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="374" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T18:28:18.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="861" CreationDate="2009-12-17T18:36:10.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use your basement or buy a mini fridge and set the temp to 70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="375" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T18:36:10.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="795" CreationDate="2009-12-17T18:43:15.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the &quot;bottle over dishwasher&quot; technique as well, and it works great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="375" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T18:43:15.613" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-17T18:43:15.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2009-12-17T18:46:49.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think secondary fermentation is essential.  I've tried just using primary and it leaves the beer cloudy and more earthy/yeasty.  If I'm adding flavors or adjuncts in secondary, I will even transfer to a tertiary fermentation vessel.&#xA;-Bryan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="375" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T18:46:49.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2009-12-17T20:11:53.000" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's another vote for BeerSmith.  As a nerd, I love XML output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T20:11:53.000" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="899" CreationDate="2009-12-17T20:21:19.127" Score="23" ViewCount="1315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made 7 or 8 extract brews over the past year and am interested in moving up to all-grain. What equipment is needed, and what steps are added to the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-04-07T19:22:37.997" LastActivityDate="2010-04-10T06:40:00.367" Title="About going all-grain" Tags="|all-grain|equipment|techniques|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="861" CreationDate="2009-12-17T20:27:13.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the best homebrew purchases I ever made was a dorm-style mini fridge (without freezer) that I removed the shelves from to create the perfect-sized fermentation fridge. This is controlled by an external Johnson controller, allowing me to dial in whatever fermentation temperature I want. It's ideally sized for buckets and carboys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fridge cost about $200 new, plus you'll need some kind of flat material (I used plexiglass) to secure the rubber seal back onto the inside of the door after you remove the door shelves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the only problem is I wish I had a second one for double batches or for lagering. I bet you could lager at least 2 or maybe 3 batches in cornies at one time. Edit: I can fit 2 cornies in my Sanyo 4912.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="376" LastEditorUserId="376" LastEditDate="2010-05-19T13:29:34.850" LastActivityDate="2010-05-19T13:29:34.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2009-12-17T20:30:18.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Mac and have used the free (though no longer supported) Homebrew Formulator for a few years. It's simple, straightforward and easy to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played around with both BeerAlchemy and BeerTools Pro but neither one really grabbed me, much less enough to spend money on the paid version when I'm already pretty comfortable with HBF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="376" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T20:30:18.180" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2009-12-17T20:45:16.437" Score="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a summary of answers so far. I'll try to keep it updated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the answers. Below, you'll find who likes them, links, and other relevant data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BeerSmith&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BeerTools Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ProMash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BrewPal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BrewTarget&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BeerAlchemy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brewer's Friend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;BeerSmith&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;beersmith.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$27.95 • Free Trial • Windows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Who uses it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/367/topfermented&quot;&gt;topfermented&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;frostywalrus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/368/tim-weber&quot;&gt;Tim Weber&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/353/jimmy&quot;&gt;Jimmy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/326/steph-weber&quot;&gt;Steph Weber&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/430/jacksmith&quot;&gt;Jack Smith&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What they said about it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jack Smith: I just started using it; I've used it for three recipes.  I'm quite happy with it.  The few minor annoyances I have found are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to choose an individual ingredient and amount.  Too much clicking.  You can't multi-select a handful of malts then go back and edit their amounts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't have multiple sets of notes on the recipe if you brew it more than once.  Maybe I'm doing it wrong.  It would be nice to have a single recipe with separate notes from every time you brewed it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The priming sugar calculator does not offer table sugar as an option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;BeerTools Pro&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beertools.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;beertools.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$29.95 • Free Trial • Mac • PC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Who uses it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/324/pj&quot;&gt;PJ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What they said about it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;ProMash&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.promash.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;promash.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$24.95 • Free Trial • Windows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Who uses it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Denny Conn and many commercial brewers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;BrewPal&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewpal.info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brewpal.info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$0.99 • iPhone&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Who uses it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/366/sean-nordquist&quot;&gt;Sean Nordquist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/375/bryan&quot;&gt;Bryan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What they said about it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;BrewTarget&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtarget.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.brewtarget.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Free (Open Source) • Windows • Mac • Linux&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Who uses it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;xchristopherx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/3352/wyrmwood&quot;&gt;wyrmwood&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wil Wheaton&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What they said about it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pros: It's free, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtarget.org/features.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;full featured software&lt;/a&gt; with extremely accurate and tunable equipment. Includes hop utilization and boil temp (especially useful for high altitude&#xA;brewers), metric, American or English units, massive extendable&#xA;database with recipes and ingredients, BJCP styles, calculators, mash&#xA;tools, works across platforms (mac, linux, windows), can&#xA;share database across devices (laptop, desktop) with tools like Dropbox. &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Brewtarget/brewtarget&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Open source&lt;/a&gt; - can contribute if you know java, mysql, xml, and others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cons: Runs in Java, so can't use it on a mobile device and must have JRE installed. So feature rich, it can be a bit intimidating to learn. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;BeerAlchemy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kentplacesoftware.com/products/BeerAlchemy.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.kentplacesoftware.com/products/BeerAlchemy.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$29.95 • Free Trial • Mac • iPhone/iPad ($4.99/$9.99)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Who uses it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/268/arnemart&quot;&gt;arnemart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What they said about it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros: Full-featured and relatively user friendly, two-way sync between Mac and i(Phone|Pad)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cons: Cannot view batches chronologically, cannot view recipe and inventory at the same time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Brewer's Friend&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$9.99/year • 2 year and lifetime subscriptions available • Free trial (first 5 recipes/brews) • Web Based • iPhone/iPad (Free/$8.99))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Who uses it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/2364/jordan&quot;&gt;Jordan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="16930" LastEditDate="2019-06-13T13:35:49.453" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T13:35:49.453" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-17T20:45:16.437" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="895" CreationDate="2009-12-17T21:00:24.770" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, time and patience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving to all-grain is a big step, but definitely an awesome one. Including cleanup, your brew day will extend to many hours. Probably close to 9-10 hours when you first start, though it will become faster as you learn your system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equipment wise, I'm not sure what you have, so I'll just go through it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Propane burner. It's not required, but it's WAY more better than an electric stove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash tun. This is where you mash the grains, sparge, etc. I built one for super cheap. It's a big chest cooler, a spigot, and a braider washer hose. &lt;a href=&quot;http://startingabrewery.wordpress.com/2009/11/01/gear/&quot;&gt;My blog&lt;/a&gt; has pictures of all this stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Big kettle. With extract, if you're used to adding water after the boil, you'll almost definitely need a bigger kettle. I'd suggest something at the 8 gallon or bigger level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wort chiller is pretty essential at this stage. Getting 5 gallons of hot wort down to 70˚ is hard without one. There are a few different kinds. I have an immersion chiller, which is pretty much just coiled copper. There are also plate / counterflow chillers, which are fricken badass. Depends what your budget is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carboy. same as with extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other useful tools are great, or even essential, too like a mash paddle (big slotted spoon), testing equipment (thermometer, hydrometer, cylindrical tube for testing), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the basics. Go to your local homebrew shop and peruse. They'll have tons of gadgets that make the whole thing more fun too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T21:00:24.770" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2009-12-17T21:27:15.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;best mac software &amp;amp; inventory editor is beer alchemy by kent place software (30 bucks 4 3 licences)...also beer alchemy reader is free for iphone and beer alchemy touch for iphone is 15 bucks...@ferment_nation also uses it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T21:27:15.270" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-17T21:27:15.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="885" CreationDate="2009-12-17T22:18:34.733" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple ways you can go about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Just put the beans right into the secondary. You are essentially &quot;Cold Brewing&quot; at that point. (For about 3-4 days) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cold brew the coffee and use the syrup, and just add to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely stay away from brewing it first you'll end up with that burnt acidic taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the amount, this is really a judgment call as to how coffee like you want it. I've heard everywhere from 1/4lb of beans in the secondary (5gal) to approx 6 shots of espresso per gallon. I talked to the brewers at Great Divide and for the Espresso Yeti, they averaged 90 shots per keg. Of course Yeti is a bigger beer and can handle that amount. Probably would be way too much for an avg strength stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="327" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T22:18:34.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="885" CreationDate="2009-12-17T22:20:51.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the imp stout I bottled last night I did this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold brewed 1/2 lb freshly ground coffee in a half gallon of filtered water for 48 hours.  Then I boiled a grain bag and one of the paper coffee filters, then put the coffee filter in the top of my brewing funnel and put the grain bag over the top of the container with the coffee.  The grain bag grabbed most of the grounds, and the sludge that was able to pass through was caught by the filter in the funnel.  Then I mixed this with the hot priming sugar solution, and threw it into the bucket.  Worked out pretty well, and I'll know the results in a few months :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="syntaxerr" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T22:20:51.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="895" CreationDate="2009-12-17T22:28:51.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest buying the DVD from Basic Brewing Radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://basicbrewingshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=2&amp;amp;products_id=7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://basicbrewingshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=2&amp;amp;products_id=7&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remember as with everything in brewing, it can be as easy or as complicated as you want it to be.  You can put together 100 bucks in equipment or 10000.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2009-12-17T22:28:51.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-17T22:32:08.820" Score="-8" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is your favorite bittering hop.  Ours is Galena&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T14:32:46.380" Title="What is your favorite bittering hop." Tags="|hops|bittering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-04-09T00:50:43.827" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-17T22:54:22.270" Score="6" ViewCount="7115" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I leave my mash tun unattended for a few days after brewing it smells like a dead animal covered in vomit.  What is the name of the bacteria/fungus/other that excretes this smell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-02-10T17:17:07.823" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T15:01:33.307" Title="What makes my mash tun smell like vomit?" Tags="|spent-grain|mash|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="885" CreationDate="2009-12-18T01:07:43.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I did it a bit differently.  I did a coffee porter, 3 gallons.  I put the espresso ground medium roast coffee in the mash.  This stuff is like ROCKET FUEL! &lt;a href=&quot;http://mckenna.tv/brew/?p=272&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mckenna.tv/brew/?p=272&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;It was VERY astringent at first, but has mellowed nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="347" LastActivityDate="2009-12-18T01:07:43.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="916" CreationDate="2009-12-18T01:33:19.607" Score="7" ViewCount="2474" Body="&lt;p&gt;When moving a 5 gallon batch into secondary does it make a difference if it is into a 5 gallon carboy or a 6.5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:21:18.213" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:21:18.213" Title="Secondary size?" Tags="|fermentation|equipment|secondary|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="909" CreationDate="2009-12-18T01:40:02.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had a problem. I only use 6.5gal carboys, have for over 4 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="327" LastActivityDate="2009-12-18T01:40:02.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="909" CreationDate="2009-12-18T01:48:41.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doesn't matter much; but some will advocate having as little airspace as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2009-12-18T01:48:41.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="848" CreationDate="2009-12-18T01:49:36.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have added coffee and was really happy with the results. My next brew is going to have vanilla soaked in bourbon added to it, so we will see how that turns out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2009-12-18T01:49:36.517" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-18T01:49:36.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="909" CreationDate="2009-12-18T02:59:11.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 5 gal carboys for secondary... when I use a secondary.  Lately I have gotten lazy, except for lagers, I only use a primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="347" LastActivityDate="2009-12-18T02:59:11.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="909" CreationDate="2009-12-18T15:21:29.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/814/how-to-store-beer/815#815&quot;&gt;a beer storage question&lt;/a&gt; that oxygen is one of the two beer spoilers. Minimize the exposure to oxygen by leaving little head space in your secondary vessel.  If you keg, you can flood the secondary with CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; before transferring. Carbon dioxide is heavier than air and will protect your beer from oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, there's not much reason to chase a problem that doesn't exist.  Oxidized beer has a wet cardboard or stale cracker flavor.  If you don't taste those flavors, relax, don't worry and have a non-oxidized homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T12:01:31.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="909" CreationDate="2009-12-18T16:55:56.657" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I say use any size it fits in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the secondary, there is unlikely to be any significant foaming unless you add a fermentable flavor such as a fruit juice. A five gallon carboy will serve fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concerns about oxygenation in larger carboys, in my opinion, are largely unfounded. Small amounts of fermentation are still occurring in the secondary as well as natural outgassing from racking the beer out of the primary.  Because CO2 is heavier than air, it forms a protective blanket over your beer, protecting it from oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real danger of oxidation in the secondary is excessive splashing during transfer, not exposure while sitting still. But that is easy to minimize and doesn't have any bearing on the carboy size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2009-12-18T16:55:56.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="907" CreationDate="2009-12-18T16:57:50.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a guess, but maybe lactobacillus bacteria?  Read somewhere that it can be introduced from the husks of barley...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="markskar" LastActivityDate="2009-12-18T16:57:50.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="907" CreationDate="2009-12-18T17:00:07.310" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is:  Every bacteria that exists in your local area. Lacto, brett, wild yeast, and less pleasant wee beasties. Its unlikely that any bacteria on your grain survived the mashing process.  Not impossible, but unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no doubt that its a combination of all of those factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to never let anything sit around dirty.  Clean equipment is happy equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2009-12-18T17:00:07.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="895" CreationDate="2009-12-18T17:00:34.000" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I'd recommend checking out your local homebrew club, and watching someone run through an all-grain batch.  I taught myself from books because at the time I didn't know that such clubs existed, but it makes it so much easier to do once you've seen the process.  It seems fairly confusing to read descriptions of it, but watching it you will realize it's really not that difficult... time-consuming, in that there's a lot of waiting around, drinking beer, yes, but difficult no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastActivityDate="2009-12-18T17:00:34.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="906" CreationDate="2009-12-18T17:00:34.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chinook (15chars)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="336" LastActivityDate="2009-12-18T17:00:34.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="928" CreationDate="2009-12-18T18:51:27.527" Score="31" ViewCount="56210" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest hurdles I came across when switching to all-grain was learning how to sparge. I honestly still don't think I do it 100% correctly. There are very detailed descriptions online, but they are pretty confusing if you haven't done it before. I'd love to see a detailed, easy to understand explanation of sparging, the different techniques, tips, pitfalls, etc. And where the word &quot;sparge&quot; came from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2009-12-29T20:56:53.997" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T02:33:33.323" Title="How do you sparge?" Tags="|sparge|all-grain|process|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-18T18:51:27.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="843" CreationDate="2009-12-18T19:00:39.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might be what you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f71/killer-bee-belgian-wit-73278/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Killer Bee Belgian Wit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I am not violating a community covenant on linking to outside sites.  Just trying to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2009-12-18T19:00:39.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="929" CreationDate="2009-12-18T19:23:40.540" Score="5" ViewCount="3228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know a couple of things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you make dark or light?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What procedure did you use/recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you try to make rocks or did you just make sheet candy and break it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you use cane sugar or beet sugar?  (although there shouldn't be a difference, sucrose is sucrose)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was your brewing experience with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of you could answer all or some of these questions I would be grateful. We've made clear sheet sugar and honestly ended up with a much sweeter/hotter beer than we got with candy sugar purchased at our LHBS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T03:17:56.797" Title="Techniques for making Belgian Candy Sugar" Tags="|belgian|sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="925" CreationDate="2009-12-18T19:53:36.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't bother making rock candy.  Just put sugar in.  It's exactly the same thing.  Cane sugar and beet sugar will give you the exact same flavor after it's been refined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want it dark, just caramelize the sugar in a pan before adding it, or add a teeeeeny bit of molasses in with your sugar (since that's what comes out of sugar when it's refined, anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the rock candy that we buy as &quot;candi sugar&quot; for Belgian beers is not what goes into Belgian beers.  They just use sugar sugar.  Check out some of Stan Hieromonyous's books on Belgian brewing (especially 'brew like a monk') for more on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm making a dark Belgian, I'll usually use Turbinado instead of white sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastActivityDate="2009-12-18T19:53:36.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="923" CreationDate="2009-12-18T20:15:19.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is what I do and I find it works really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a sparge arm I built out of copper tubing that is shaped in a flat spiral (hope that makes sense).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I balance the out flow with the sparge, keep about 1-2&quot; of water over the grain bed at all times and I average about 1gal in the kettle per 12min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plain simple, easy to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, ha you knew there was more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently started playing around with batch sparging which I absolutely love but your efficiency goes right in the crapper and you have to compensate for it with increased grain bills. So you have to decide if you want to spend a couple extra dollars on grain and save an hour or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="327" LastActivityDate="2009-12-18T20:15:19.887" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-18T20:15:19.887" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="923" CreationDate="2009-12-18T21:37:05.000" Score="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/sparge&quot;&gt;Sparge&lt;/a&gt; means &quot;sprinkle&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of sparging is to rinse all the sugars out of the mash.  In concept, that's really all you are doing - rinsing your grain bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also halts enzymatic activity because alpha and beta amylase become denatured around 170&amp;deg; F.  The benefit is if you are really good at mashing you know exactly when to stop so your malt flavor profile is where you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few &quot;right&quot; ways to do it and the measure of how well you sparge depends entirely on the targets you set for the mash.  Answering these questions help you decide what method to use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How efficient do I want to be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much time do I want to spend?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three main methods of sparging: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/No_sparge_method&quot;&gt;no-sparge&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Batch_Sparging&quot;&gt;batch&lt;/a&gt; and, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Fly_Sparging&quot;&gt;fly&lt;/a&gt; (continuous).  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/All-grain_brewing#Sparge&quot;&gt;Homebrewing Wiki&lt;/a&gt; has a decent discussion of the methods.  I'll give you a summary of each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Vorlauf&quot;&gt;vorlauf&lt;/a&gt; before each of these (see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No-sparge&lt;/strong&gt; is exactly what it sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain the mash tun into the kettle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top off the kettle to the desired pre-boil volume&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a few advantages, primarily its simplicity and that you are never in danger of extracting tannins from the grain husk.  It is the least &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Efficiency&quot;&gt;efficient&lt;/a&gt;, meaning some desirable sugars remain in the grain.  The less efficient you are, the more grain you need to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Batch sparging&lt;/strong&gt; is the next simplest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain the mash tun into the kettle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refill the mash tun an inch or two above the grain bed with hot water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stir and let sit for a few moments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vorlauf again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go back to step 1. until you have your desired pre-boil volume&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method is less labor intensive and quicker than continuous sparging. It also eliminates channeling - a concern if you have a single pick-up (like a braided hose) in the bottom of your tun.  The efficiency of batch sparging falls somewhere between no-sparge and fly, but is is fairly close to the higher end of efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fly sparging&lt;/strong&gt; works best with an automated system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set up a sparge arm that gently sprinkles hot water on the top of the grain bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Begin draining, or pumping, sparge water through the arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain your mash tun into the kettle just fast enough to match the sparge water flow rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Collect your desired pre-boil gravity, or until the runnings into the kettle get to around 1.010 specific gravity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using continuous sparging you can get upwards of 85% efficiency.  That means of all the sugars that you could get out of your grain, you extracted eighty-five percent of them.  Fly sparging requires another piece of equipment, however it is easy to make. The geometry of your mash tun and the wort pick-up should not promote channeling because the wort is always moving down the grain bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Vorlauf&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One step that is technically not sparging, but comes between mashing and sparging, is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Vorlauf&quot;&gt;vorlauf&lt;/a&gt;.  This is simply removing some wort from the mash tun drain and gently returning it to the top.  By recirculating the wort you set the gain bed up to filter out husks and other larger particles.  Vorlauf increases the clarity of your beer because those bits never make it to the kettle. A pump is the easiest way to do it, but you can use a pitcher, just don't disturb the grain bed.  Recirculate until you stop seeing floaties in the return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T15:28:40.583" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T15:28:40.583" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-18T21:37:05.000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="925" CreationDate="2009-12-18T21:47:47.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you are really asking is how to make inverted sugar.  This is when you break the sucrose down into fructose and glucose to make a more highly and easily fermented sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually do this for my trippel.  To make it I measure out the amount of sugar I am going to put in to my recipe, in this case a pound.  Put in a sauce pan with just enough water to make it  a little liquidy, and not burn to the bottom of the pot.  If you add a lot it will just take longer to heat to temperature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Citric acid is required to invert the sugar, at a little bit of lemon juice or citric acid powder.  Not much is needed. A pinch or two.  I've actually squeezed a whole orange into it to give it an orange flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MAKE SURE YOU USE A CANDY THERMOMETER, otherwise you will burn it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat the sugar to 300F and immediatly pour into a cookie sheet with wax paper on it.  This will make clear hard crack sugar.  Let it cool and break into shards when hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to make darker sugar hold the temperature of the pan between 260F and 275F until the desired color is reached. Add a spoon full of tap water to prevent the sugar from going over 275 any time it's needed. For dark colors it could take a few hours.  Once the color is reached, heat to 300F and pour into pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I add the sugar before the boil so that is fully dissolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2009-12-18T21:47:47.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="930" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-19T17:40:16.590" Score="2" ViewCount="6716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard rumor of people figuring out a way to do this without getting all the grease into the beer as well. If you want to add bacon flavoring to a beer, how do you do it? I know you can use some smoked grains and other things like that, but I want the real thing. One method I heard of was baking it rather than frying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has anyone used bacon in a beer? If so, how?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has anyone tried a beer with bacon in it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone have any ideas on the best way to use bacon in a beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What styles support bacon?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-03-06T02:19:14.887" Title="Using bacon in beer" Tags="|bacon|additives|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="930" CreationDate="2009-12-19T18:01:11.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Garret Oliver from Brooklyn Brewery has been experimenting with bacon in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/08/11/bowling-for-brews/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/08/11/bowling-for-brews/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="335" LastActivityDate="2009-12-19T18:01:11.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-20T03:33:34.290" Score="5" ViewCount="4561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to prepare alcoholic lemonade using: lemons, water, dextrose, lactose, and champagne yeast. I read that it is a good idea to add yeast nutrient but I have no idea what it is or where to find it. Any idea from somebody about it being important for this type of fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="lemonader" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T09:10:12.280" Title="What is yeast nutrient?" Tags="|lemonade|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="932" CreationDate="2009-12-20T15:43:25.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast needs a few things to survive besides just sugar. Things like nitrogen, lipids, etc. When you make an all-grain batch of beer, you get a lot of these things from the mash. But when you use &quot;refined&quot; sugars, like table sugar, the yeast needs a little help. You can buy nutrients at a homebrew shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page from &quot;How to Brew&quot; by John Palmer&lt;/a&gt;, with more details, and a few commercially available examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2009-12-20T15:43:25.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="932" CreationDate="2009-12-20T19:01:00.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermax yeast nutrient is made up of diammonium phosphate, dipotassium phosphate, magnesium sulfate and autolyzed yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most yeast nutrients have yeast hulls, and DAP in them.  You can also just boil some older yeast too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find it at any homebrew store or online homebrew store.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2009-12-20T19:01:00.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="930" CreationDate="2009-12-20T21:33:51.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why you couldn't do something like a bacon/bourbon infusion filtered through a coffee filter and add it to the beer. Seems like you would need to be making a bigger darker beer to support the flavor. Maybe something that can support the smokey salty flavors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2009-12-20T21:33:51.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="937" CreationDate="2009-12-20T22:24:30.460" Score="14" ViewCount="1293" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does it clarify my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2009-12-20T22:54:31.577" Title="How does Irish moss work?" Tags="|irish-moss|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="936" CreationDate="2009-12-20T22:54:31.577" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Proteins are one of the primary constituents of hot break.  Some of these proteins are known as haze active (HA) and negatively affect beer clarity (they make yer beer cloudy).  The proteins are complex molecules folded up into three-dimensional structures that give them a positive charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Irish moss (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chondrus%5Fcrispus&quot;&gt;Chondrus crispus&lt;/a&gt;) is negatively charged.  When present in the boil it attracts the positively charged proteins like a magnet.  While proteins would normally remain in suspension bonding to the irish moss forms a particle heavy enough to drop out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-20T22:54:31.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="930" CreationDate="2009-12-21T22:26:32.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been meaning to try a bacon beer for quite some time now... Thinking through the flavors though I think it would be mostly like Alaskan Smoked Porter.  You wouldn't really have to use pork, and if you think about it, there's a ton of pumpkin beers that have no pumpkin.  If you really want to use the pig, expect zero head.  Also you might want to look into &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rendering%5F%28food%5Fprocessing%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rendering&lt;/a&gt; and just use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.answers.com/topic/greaves&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;greaves&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastActivityDate="2009-12-21T22:26:32.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-21T22:38:27.040" Score="2" ViewCount="4597" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I want to make a red ale in the vein of Lagunitas's Imperial Red, Dry Hopped St. Rogue Red, or Green Flash Hop Head Red. Anyone have any recipes for me? I'm not looking for a traditional Irish red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="WhatsBillDoing" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-02-10T17:18:47.663" LastActivityDate="2010-02-10T17:18:47.663" Title="Recipe for Imperial Red Ale?" Tags="|recipe|red-ale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-21T23:12:37.640" Score="17" ViewCount="19506" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going to try using dry oak chips in my secondary fermenter.  How do you recommend sanitizing the chips before adding them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:21:39.320" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T20:28:01.943" Title="Sanitizing oak chips" Tags="|techniques|fermentation|sanitation|secondary|oak|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2009-12-21T23:20:24.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I used oak chips in my scotch ale, I boiled them for a minute or so and then dropped them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also soak them in scotch, which would sanitize them and add some pretty awesome flavoring. I think I'll do that next time, actually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2009-12-21T23:20:24.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2009-12-22T00:11:34.543" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;We soak ours in bourbon.  Kicks the oak up a notch or two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="386" LastActivityDate="2009-12-22T00:11:34.543" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="944" CreationDate="2009-12-22T02:21:45.520" Score="6" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the middle of bottling my stout right now. The OG was 1.070, and the gravity almost a month ago (11/24) was 1.024. I added 3/4 cup priming sugar in about 3 cups of water, and bottled about 20 bottles. Then I decided to check the gravity (forgot earlier. oops). And it's 1.022. Is 3/4 priming sugar in 4 gallons of beer enough to change the gravity significantly? Is my yeast dead? Or is something else going on entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using WLP007 (Dry English Ale)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2009-12-22T02:49:05.297" LastActivityDate="2009-12-22T04:06:12.003" Title="Is my yeast dead?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|bottling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="943" CreationDate="2009-12-22T03:34:32.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That much priming sugar isn't enough to make a significant change if any to 4 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.022 down from 1.070 is pretty good, that was a lot of work for your yeast. What FG were you shooting for? If you were going for much lower than my guess is one of the following happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You didn't pitch enough yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You didn't aerate enough&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You had some colder than expected fermentation temps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to bring it down more you could have pitched some more yeast, WLP001 or some champagne yeast. You could also have tried just swirling your carboy a little to wake things up a bit to see if it takes off again. I've done that with some pretty good success. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="327" LastActivityDate="2009-12-22T03:34:32.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="943" CreationDate="2009-12-22T04:06:12.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the yeast did its thing and pooped out.  The apparent attenuation of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains%5Fwlp007.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WLP007&lt;/a&gt; is 70-80%. That means that your final gravity could get down between 1.021 and 1.014.  You are at about 6.6% ABV which the yeast should be able to handle.  You are close to the expected final gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it taste too sweet?  1.022 is a decent endpoint for that starting gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-22T04:06:12.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2009-12-22T04:08:44.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling the oak chips can bring out undesirable tannins.  Soak them in alcohol, or trust that there is enough alcohol in your beer to kill an infection.  Many people do not sanitize flavorings added to the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-22T04:08:44.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="947" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="957" CreationDate="2009-12-22T05:56:18.473" Score="6" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you a BJCP certified judge?  How does it affect and influence your homebrewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-23T16:14:38.763" Title="Opinions on the BJCP" Tags="|bjcp|judging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="947" CreationDate="2009-12-22T07:23:05.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the BJCP guidelines when trying to determine what the start of my recipe is going to be, and sometimes what to call it. Past that, I make beer that I think will be awesome. Sometimes the end result fits in the style I was going for. Sometimes I'm way off and in another style. Sometimes I can't classify it at all. But if it tastes good, I'm happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I definitely understand, appreciate, and enjoy what guidelines can do for beer. It's mightily hard to compare a pale ale to an oatmeal stout, or a pilsner to a porter, especially if you can't classify them as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in answer, the BJCP influences some key components in my recipe, but my final product is not geared to match the guidelines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2009-12-22T07:23:05.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="955" CreationDate="2009-12-22T15:12:39.967" Score="18" ViewCount="53758" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen the adjective &quot;Imperial&quot; tacked on at the beginning of a number of beer styles recently: Imperial Stout, Imperial Brown Ale, Imperial Red Ale, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does it mean exactly, is it just higher alcohol content or something like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T14:05:14.750" Title="What does 'Imperial' mean with regards to beer style?" Tags="|beer-styles|imperial|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="949" CreationDate="2009-12-22T16:26:39.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surface meaning when picking up a bottle at the store: more. More hops, more malt - more ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, it also refers to &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of the beer's history. Imperial Indian Pale Ale relates to the exporting of beer from England to India during their imperial reign (fact check?).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Similarly, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stout#Imperial%5Fstout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Imperial Stouts&lt;/a&gt; were exported from England to Catherine II of Russia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2009-12-22T16:26:39.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="949" CreationDate="2009-12-22T17:08:56.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always consider Imperial to mean &quot;bigger&quot; (higher abv). A more extreme version of the style with more of various ingredients. There are larger additions of specific ingredients generally based on the style, such as an Imperial IPA probably is more heavily hopped. It also seems that the word &quot;double&quot; could easily be interchanged most of the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;im·pe·ri·al  (m-pîr-l)&#xA;adj.&#xA;1. Of, relating to, or suggestive of an empire or a sovereign, especially an emperor or empress: imperial rule; the imperial palace.&#xA;2. Ruling over extensive territories or over colonies or dependencies: imperial nations.&#xA;3.&#xA;a. Having supreme authority; sovereign.&#xA;b. Regal; majestic.&#xA;4. Outstanding in size or quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outstanding in size or quality seems to apply to beer quite nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2009-12-22T17:08:56.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="954" CreationDate="2009-12-22T17:26:06.390" Score="4" ViewCount="961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I store all my beer at 55°F(12.7°C). Do I need to worry about the beers that are bottle conditioned not being carbonated, or not being at the proper carbonation level? Should they already be carbonated when I purchase them? The main reason for this question is the issues Lost Abbey and the Bruery were having with carbonation. A friend suggested I let all my Lost Abbey stuff sit around 70°F (21°C) and shake it up a bit every once in a while for a few months. Is this a good suggestion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T12:50:22.907" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T12:50:22.907" Title="Storing bottle conditioned beers and carbonation" Tags="|carbonation|temperature|bottle-conditioning|storage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2009-12-22T17:27:41.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've soaked them in scotch, and I've boiled them for up to 20 minutes.  No harsh flavors. I pour all of the extracted woody liquid in too. I recommend using french oak unless you intend to age for a long time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2009-12-22T17:27:41.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="952" CreationDate="2009-12-22T17:31:28.827" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When bottle conditioned beers leave the brewery they are already at the proper CO2 levels, unless otherwise specified.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's better to store beer at a cooler temperature.  The 3 things that destroy beer are light, heat, and oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't shake your beers, you will re-suspend everything that has dropped out over time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2009-12-22T17:31:28.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="949" CreationDate="2009-12-22T19:14:38.617" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;English brewers, brewing beer for the Russian Czar's court brewed a beer with a high ABV to try and impress the royalty of Russia.  Lots of hops were added to balance the malt, and survive the journey to Russia.  This was the original Russian Imperial Stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As will all things, American Craft breweries have now taken this name to put a spin on any beer that is higher alcohol than its traditional counterpart.  It may also contain a lot more hops than normal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples, Imperial IPA, Imperial Pilsner, Imperial Brown ale... you get the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T08:21:02.423" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T08:21:02.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="949" CreationDate="2009-12-22T20:00:33.593" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is part marketing and part tradition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term has origins in high gravity and hopped porters exported from England.  The &lt;em&gt;BJCP 2008 Style Guidelines&lt;/em&gt; has this to say about the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style13.php#1f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Russian Imperial Stout&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Brewed to high gravity and hopping&#xA;  level in England for export to the&#xA;  Baltic States and Russia. Said to be&#xA;  popular with the Russian Imperial&#xA;  Court. Today is even more popular with&#xA;  American craft brewers, who have&#xA;  extended the style with unique&#xA;  American characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Imperial&quot; is this brewing world's &quot;EXTREME!&quot;  Higher alcohol, more hops, more malt, more everything!  Quoth the BJCP about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style14.php#1c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Imperial IPA&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A recent American innovation&#xA;  reflecting the trend of American craft&#xA;  brewers “pushing the envelope” to&#xA;  satisfy the need of hop aficionados&#xA;  for increasingly intense products. The&#xA;  adjective “Imperial” is arbitrary and&#xA;  simply implies a stronger version of&#xA;  an IPA; “double,” “extra,” “extreme,”&#xA;  or any other variety of adjectives&#xA;  would be equally valid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="13754" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T14:05:14.750" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T14:05:14.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="947" CreationDate="2009-12-22T22:47:29.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just took the test earlier this month, and I can say that it's a difficult bitch of an exam.  Overall I don't brew towards the guidelines and I'm kind of an anti-style kind of person, but I think studying and taking the exam was definitely a worthwhile experience.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the main goals of the BJCP program is to improve beer literacy.  Just because I don't brew for guidelines doesn't mean that as a judge I should be ignorant about Dusseldorf Alts, Roggenbiers or Biere de Garde!  Knowing the history, ingredients, and special processes behind the creation of these beers can be of great value towards creating my next non-style creative beer.  I also learned quite a bit in depth about yeast, mashing process, malting, water chemistry, and ingredient selection.  I already knew the basics of these, but we took it much further in our study sessions.  Knowing a lot more about beer can never hurt you... even if you don't brew to the style guidelines.  I can just take my new knowledge and apply it in new and creative ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastActivityDate="2009-12-22T22:47:29.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-22T23:46:53.310" Score="12" ViewCount="85609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a lot of trouble finding a quick and easy answer to this question.  Wine makers will add these chemical to wine after fermentation to prevent spoilage, and as an antioxidant.  You can also add these two ingredients in mead, cider, wine, and beer to stop fermentation in order to hit a final gravity, or back sweeten. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the use of a SO2 meter, what is a good approximation of how much potassium metabisulfite/Potassium Sorbate I should add to stop fermentation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measurements in grams/gallon please..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2009-12-23T00:00:37.220" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T13:33:26.697" Title="How much potassium metabisulfite/Potassium Sorbate to stop fermentation?" Tags="|potassium-meta-bisulfite|potassium-sorbate|additives|k-meta|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-22T23:51:37.030" Score="3" ViewCount="2334" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much potassium metabisulfite should I add when racking my wine or cider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measurements in grams/gallon please.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2009-12-23T00:01:17.763" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T21:12:53.630" Title="How much K-meta should I add when racking my cider/wine?" Tags="|k-meta|additives|potassium-meta-bisulfite|racking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="958" CreationDate="2009-12-23T00:04:41.070" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;One tablet in one gallon of must yields 150 ppm total sulfur dioxide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those instructions are on the bottle of Campden tablets, which are potassium metabisulfite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/winemaking/campden-tablets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source for Campden tablets&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is common to use Campden tablets in wine, mead, and sometimes cider. It is less typical to use in beer, although it can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potassium Sorbate also has instructions right on the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Potassium sorbate, aka &quot;stabilizer,&quot; prevents renewed fermentation in wine that is to be bottled and/or sweetened. Use 1/2 teaspoon per gallon.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/winemaking/potassium-sorbate.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source for Potassium sorbate&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;del&gt;It is my understanding that you use one or the other, either Campden or Potassium sorbate, not both.&lt;/del&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potassium sorbate and potassium metabisulfite accomplish different things, and can be used together to both stop fermentation and prevent renewed fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7789/kill-yeast-in-keg&quot;&gt;related question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T14:13:35.243" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="959" CreationDate="2009-12-23T15:39:43.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not certain about grams per gallon (why are you mixing metric and imperial?). The general rule for wine (and probably cider as well) is one campden tablet or 1/8th tsp of k-meta per gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to wikipedia one campden tablet typically weighs .44 grams and 10 campden tablets equals 1 tsp of k-meta so I'd guess between .44 and .55 grams of k-meta per gallon. (1/8th of 4.4g is .55g)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campden_tablets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campden_tablets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a little extra won't hurt, especially if your wine or cider is done fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T08:13:45.693" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T08:13:45.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="947" CreationDate="2009-12-23T16:14:38.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's most improved my brewing is actually judging in competitions. At a good comp you are paired off with a higher ranked judge (assuming you are a junior) and if they are also good s/he will give you a brain dump.  I've learned a lot about where off-flavors come from and how to avoid them, and the beers usually aren't all that terrible.  When I encounter an off-flavor in judging I always try to give the entrant a pointer on how to eliminate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually brew to-style, partly because of the BJCP.  It helped me appreciate the history behind the beers I drink.  Becoming certified made me much more literate and I speak with authority about myriad styles.  Telling people you are a beer judge sounds impressive, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-23T16:14:38.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="790" CreationDate="2009-12-24T20:37:57.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have any buckets or better bottles with spigots.  I just use the auto-siphon to rack from primary to secondary and then from secondary to bottling bucket.  I also bottle with an auto-siphon.  Mind you, I do five gallon batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were I to do larger batches I would invest in equipment with either a conical bottom or a spigot system. For gravity testing I use a simple wine thief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there isn't really a controversy on &quot;spigot or no&quot; rather it is more about how you like to work, what equipment you have and how you weight the advantages and disadvantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2009-12-24T20:37:57.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="798" CreationDate="2009-12-24T20:40:40.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rackers.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Green Bay Rackers&lt;/a&gt; charge 25 dollars a year for fees, although I think most of that goes towards club functions and possibly the web site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2009-12-24T20:40:40.887" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-24T20:40:40.887" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2009-12-25T00:45:26.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got 4 oz of oak chips soaking in 4 floz of Jack Daniels right now for a porter I'm brewing on Christmas day.  If that doesn't kill all the bugs in the wood, I can't imagine anything will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="347" LastActivityDate="2009-12-25T00:45:26.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-26T04:13:42.367" Score="9" ViewCount="21484" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked this on Twitter a while back, but I thought I might get some other thoughts on it. I have one of those 5g Poland Spring water jugs. If I get a bung that fits it, is there any reason I couldn't use it as a fermenter (either primary or secondary?). Some people have said it should be fine, others have said that &quot;chemicals in the plastic&quot; will leech into my beer and produce off-flavors. I find this latter argument difficult to accept given that those same chemicals don't leech into the water that the jugs held. Thoughts one way or the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="WhatsBillDoing" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-01-22T20:42:15.510" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T10:25:12.497" Title="Using Plastic Water Jugs as Fermenters" Tags="|equipment|fermenter|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="939" CreationDate="2009-12-26T04:29:39.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems like a recipe that might work. The IBUs are about right, and the grain bill looks solid. I'll have to experiment to see if I can convert it into a mash-extract recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtility.com/ViewRecipe.aspx?recipeID=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewtility.com/ViewRecipe.aspx?recipeID=3&lt;/a&gt;][1]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oddly, I'm answering my own question through a different account of the same name. Splendid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastActivityDate="2009-12-26T04:29:39.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2009-12-26T15:23:46.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short: you'll &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To explain, the primary danger is oxygen leaching through the plastic and oxidizing your beer. This is a real risk however you can minimize it.  I believe it will take months at the rate of diffusion. Your beer will come out tasting like stale crackers or wet cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason chemicals in the plastic &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; leech into your beer and not the water is because beer is acidic while water is fairly neutral in pH.  A few hours in the sun may drive off those chemicals. There is probably some food-safety regulation governing water jug composition guarding you from harmful chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try it out.  If you don't have a problem, relax &amp;amp; don't worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-26T15:23:46.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2009-12-26T18:34:47.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often used plastic jugs when first starting out, probably because they were cheaper and available. One thing I recall is the relative difficulty in removing krausen scum from the inside - perhaps the plastic isn't as smooth as glass; I'm not sure. But this was also years ago and I'm not sure I tried as hard as I would now. So perhaps with a good soak in the right chemicals - Oxyclean, bleach, what have you - it would be no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="376" LastActivityDate="2009-12-26T18:34:47.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="975" CreationDate="2009-12-26T22:29:55.317" Score="8" ViewCount="6748" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm making a 5 gallon batch of beer, how much water should I use for my wort? Papazian's book says to use 1.5g and add it to 3.5g of room temperature water already in the carboy. I see how this would be helpful because it would help to cool the wort down quicker to pitch, and I wouldn't have to worry necessarily about the glass breaking. I've also seen other resources (including something, I think, through this site) recommending that for a 5g batch you boil all 5g in your wort. What are the pros and cons of the latter method? Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastActivityDate="2009-12-27T00:02:03.123" Title="Amount of Water to Boil for Wort" Tags="|boil|wort|water|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="971" CreationDate="2009-12-26T22:56:10.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a wort chiller, boiling the entire batch is easier. If not, adding cold water is easier. That's about the biggest difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2009-12-26T22:56:10.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2009-12-26T23:48:24.690" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The consensus answer is that the only thing safe to put food with non-neutral PH into is #1 Polyethylene terephthalate or #2 High-density polyethylene.  The big blue jugs you get with water in them are made from #7 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycarbonate&quot;&gt;polycarbonate&lt;/a&gt;.  Polycarbonate has some potential health issues as it can leach, even in water at room temperature, a substance known as &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bisphenol%5FA&quot;&gt;Bisphenol A&lt;/a&gt; which can have detrimental health effects.  There is a movement going on to discontinue use of #7 polycarbonate plastics in the bottled water industry and replace them with #1 or #2. It is my understanding that the company that makes Better Bottles is benefiting from this.  I know people will argue up and down that they haven't seen any health effects, but I simply wouldn't bother risking it.  Better bottles and bucket fermenters are cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have fermented in plastic carboys can I cannot recommend it.  You CAN get them clean with Oxy-Clean, but they are a PITA.  Glass fermenters where you can use a carboy brush or plastic bucket fermenters are superior, in my opinion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the oxygen permeability issue, unless you are going to leave the product in the plastic for years, it should be a negligible effect. #1 or #2 plastics have a very low oxygen permeability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2009-12-26T23:48:24.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="971" CreationDate="2009-12-26T23:57:44.837" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing a full-wort boil (all 5 gallons) offers a few technical advantages over partial-wort boils.  There are a number of reactions that depend on the concentration of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the wort-darkening reactions are more pronounced at a smaller volume meaning your wort will come out a little darker than you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second and more importantly, the rate of hop utilization is diminished in a partial-wort boil.  You may have to use more hops to get the desired bitterness level.  Most brewing software takes boil volume into account when calculating IBUs. In rare cases of high bitterness, small wort boils the wort can become saturated with iso-acids, putting a cap on IBUs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest drawback to this method is the extra equipment you need.  A good heat source and a chiller are important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partial-wort boils are convenient, and for the most part, you will make fine beer without a full boil.  I recommend you sterilize the added water by boiling and cooling (maybe overnight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-26T23:57:44.837" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="971" CreationDate="2009-12-27T00:02:03.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, well there are a few things to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How big is your pot?  If you don't have the headroom to handle the inevitable foam, you will have a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can you easily chill five gallons of wort without using a cold water additive?  If you don't have a wort chiller, this can be a big issue. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The amount of wort you boil, the specific gravity of that wort, and when you add hops will greatly vary the bitterness you obtain. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple beer with 6lbs of light DME, 1.5oz of Norther Brewer hops @60min and .5oz of Saaz at 1min in a three gallon boil gives us 34.4 IBU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you change ONLY the boil size, to five gallons, the IBUs go up to 47.3.  Fermentables, boil size and hop AA can all effect the final bitterness.  I recommend using software or something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&quot;&gt;Beer Calculus&lt;/a&gt; (free, online) to adjust your recipe to the boil size you want.  So in short, it does matter how much you boil and you have to adjust your recipe to account for it.  Or you will miss your IBU targets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2009-12-27T00:02:03.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-27T07:33:39.083" Score="22" ViewCount="79146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that it is possible to grow your own yeast, but I have not been able to find exact instructions. I would like to grow my own yeast so that I don't have to spend money on those small sachets, which cost around $3.5 for 7 gr around here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="yoquese" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:03:17.353" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T13:22:44.567" Title="How to grow yeast?" Tags="|beer|yeast|techniques|cider|grow|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="976" CreationDate="2009-12-28T14:49:51.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't actually harvested or grown my own yeast yet, though I really want to. It's about $7.95 per batch for me, and I brew about 3-4 times a month. Adds up for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BYO Magazine&lt;/a&gt; had a great issue with a bunch of yeast techniques. If you can, find the September 2009 issue. They have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/list/indices/58-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bunch of other articles online&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/368/tim-weber&quot;&gt;TimWeber&lt;/a&gt; will chime in here. I know &lt;a href=&quot;http://twitpic.com/rqw73&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;he got a 5000mL flask&lt;/a&gt; recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T15:32:55.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-28T16:07:06.563" Score="10" ViewCount="3631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started brewing my first batch (yay!) and want to set up for bottling while I wait.  My question is simple: Can I start using Swing-Tops like Grolsch to bottle my beer?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've heard varying reports about skunking my beer with the green glass, or that the seal is imperfect.  Do you think it would be any harder to clean the glass inside these reusable bottles?  I would consider capping my own beer although I'd rather save the expense until I learn a little more about brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="393" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:46:17.537" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T15:38:01.120" Title="Is it safe to use swing-tops?" Tags="|equipment|bottling|cleaning|capping|skunk|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="993" CreationDate="2009-12-28T17:07:49.023" Score="5" ViewCount="9562" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my Christmas gifts I received was a 4-pack of Old Rasputin Imperial Stout. What are the ideal food pairings for a stout like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user395" LastActivityDate="2009-12-28T19:53:40.043" Title="What is the ideal food pairing for an Imperial Stout?" Tags="|pairing|stout|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-09-14T01:58:36.093" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="982" CreationDate="2009-12-28T17:20:09.607" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used swing tops in the past without issue. If you are worried about the seal you can buy replacement seals, which should probably be done every once in a while. I don't think it's necessary every time. I have bottled 2 batches using some Fischer bottles and had zero problems with the seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the green bottles go. If you keep it out of the light you should have no problems. Beer Advocate has a good explanation as to why the green bottles will not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skunked beer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beeradvocate.com/archived-articles/527/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.beeradvocate.com/archived-articles/527/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fischer bottle: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.enveloop.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/09/fischer-beer-660-ml.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.enveloop.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/09/fischer-beer-660-ml.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastEditorUserId="16889" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T15:38:01.120" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T15:38:01.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="982" CreationDate="2009-12-28T17:45:43.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bottled some of my beer in swing top bottles. I like them pretty well but they are difficult to scavenge (rare) and expensive to purchase. So if cost is your motivator buying a capper (check craigslist) and caps, and fishing bottles out of a local pub's dumpster (ask permission and wear gloves!) will probably be cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had one seal fail on me, so you definitely want to get new seals from time to time. The beer in the failed seal bottle didn't skunk, it just simply didn't carbonate. I drank it anyway and it was fine, just flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2009-12-28T17:45:43.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="976" CreationDate="2009-12-28T18:18:27.480" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've grown my own yeast out of bottles before.  Basically, all you're doing is making a very small yeast starter and pitching the dregs of a bottle into it and growing it up from there.  I usually start with 25ml - 50ml out of a bottle and then step it up a couple of times until I'm making a 1000ml starter for a batch of brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had luck doing this with English-style ales and Belgian-style ales, both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to make sure that you can sterilize the mouth of the bottle before you pour out of it, since that's the place that's most likely had some sort of other bacteria get to it.  You can swab the mouth of the bottle with a small amount of isopropyl alcohol and burn it off for quick sterilization. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few important things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You must do this from bottle-conditioned beer.  If the yeast has been filtered out prior to packaging, there will not be enough yeast in the solution for you to grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Not all bottle-conditioned beer is bottled with the same yeast that it was originally fermented in.  Many breweries use lager yeast for bottle-conditioning, since they can then put the bottles into cold storage or cold shipping and it will still condition, ferment, and carbonate, just more slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) It has to be fairly fresh beer, as the yeast will suffer quite a bit of stress under packaging conditions (high pressure, not optimal temperature).  You may not be able to culture yeast out of something that's been fairly aged, or what you do culture out may be a mutated strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Over time, yeast strains will mutate.  Most commercial breweries will re-pitch yeast batch to batch for a few generations (6 - 10 is normal, I think), but at some point, if you're looking for consistency from your yeast strain, you'll want to wash your yeast and grow a pure culture up from scratch again, and this will be a pain in the ass without some sort of lab.  Mind you, in a homebrewing environment this may not be much of an issue, so long as the mutations you get are pleasant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm on my 4th generation of yeasts that I've grown out of bottles, now, and everything still tastes great.  I have a yeast library of four yeasts that I've grown up from scratch - two belgian yeasts, one english-style (which I think is Whitbread), and one English-style combination (two bottles of different ales together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I still buy yeast for probably half of my batches, just for variety in flavor profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastActivityDate="2009-12-28T18:18:27.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="984" CreationDate="2009-12-28T18:56:41.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old Raspy goes great with chocolates.  I have heard of brownie recipe's that use Imp Stouts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="399" LastActivityDate="2009-12-28T18:56:41.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="930" CreationDate="2009-12-28T19:08:10.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the summer a home brew club out of St Louis mad a BLT beer for an event trying to make the world's largest BLT sandwich.  For the bacon beer, they made a smoked porter and &quot;dry-hopped&quot; with Bacos.  It got in the bacon flavoring without the grease from real bacon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.showmebeer.com/2009/08/blt-beer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.showmebeer.com/2009/08/blt-beer.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="399" LastActivityDate="2009-12-28T19:08:10.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="984" CreationDate="2009-12-28T19:16:40.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was gonna say something chocolate-related as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That, or a fine cut of steak (I'd go with filet, personally), if you're looking for an entree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="markskar" LastActivityDate="2009-12-28T19:16:40.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="984" CreationDate="2009-12-28T19:47:58.397" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Allow me to step in as the residential &quot;semi&quot; expert at food &amp;amp; beer pairings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how I break down ideal pairings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BODY&lt;/strong&gt;: Pair like with like -- as with food &amp;amp; wine. THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS, naturally. But for the most part, this is a solid rule. What does this mean? Lighter dishes (&lt;em&gt;such as salads, fresh seafood, fruits &amp;amp; veggies, light broth soups, etc...&lt;/em&gt;) pair best with beers of lighter body, mouthfeel and ABV. Bolder, heavier and more viscous beers can overwhelm light foods. And then visa versa. Heavier malty beers with higher original gravity tend to hold up next to fatty dishes, fried foods &amp;amp; creamy sauces -- where lighter beers become weak in comparison. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;THE MAJOR EXCEPTION with this rule is: HOT &amp;amp; HOT. AVOID pairing &quot;hot&quot; foods (aka spicy foods) with &quot;hot&quot; beers (aka high alcohol/wood aged beers) ... heat only intensifies heat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TASTE&lt;/strong&gt;: This is where things get a bit tricky. Essentially, when it comes to beer, there are four &quot;main&quot; tastes: sweet, salt, sour, bitter. When it comes to food, researchers argue the existence of a 4th taste: umami -- aka savoriness. But for the sake of this posting, we will ignore umami.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pair according taste AFTER you decide upon the body of either the food or beer on which you will make the pairing based. Then pair according to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pairing according to taste happens in one of two ways: 1. complementary pairing 2. contrasting pairing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean? 1. Complimentary pairing = both the beer and the food have the same taste, which increases the experience of both tastes. Example: Raspberry lambic fruit beer paired with a berry dessert. Both are light in body and have sweet fruit flavors with hints of acidity and tartness. 2. Contrasting pairing = the beer and the food have posses different tastes, which increases the experience of both tastes -- one either &quot;cuts&quot; the other and helps balance it out OR one helps to heighten the flavor of the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all tastes can be contrasted against each other, mind you. Salty-sweet = good. Sweet-bitter = good. Sweet-sour = good. Salty-bitter = depends on pairing, but usually not ideal. Bitter-sour = not ideal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, let us elaborate a tad on contrasting flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sweet and bitter is a great example. Think about the use of coffee in desserts such as tiramasu. The bitterness of the coffee helps to &quot;cut&quot; the sweetness of the dessert. Without the coffee, the dessert would be extremely sweet. The espresso lightens the sweetness and gives the dessert more dimension by adding another layer of taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;THE NEXT LEVEL OF PAIRING (diving in deeper) IS FLAVOR MATCHING. FOR THE SAKE OF THIS POST, I WILL SAVE THAT &quot;LESSON&quot; FOR ANOTHER TIME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now having said all this, let us take a look at your question: &quot;One of my Christmas gifts I received was a 4-pack of Old Rasputin Imperial Stout. What are the ideal food pairings for a stout like this?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old Rasputin = Russian Imperial Stout -- High abv% (9), thick, rich, viscous body. Taste is  bitter and sweet. (Flavors: roasted malt, dark malts, coffee, molasses)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Body. The body of OR is intense and needs something of equal body to stand up to it. Bigger bodied beers pair nicely with a steak with a cream sauce, chicken marsala, creamy cheese dishes such as macaroni and cheese, cream based desserts, custards. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taste. In OR we get two major tastes: sweet &amp;amp; bitter. The question here is, do we contrast or compliment tastes? In my opinion, the easiest pairing is to compliment. Sweet &amp;amp; bitter with sweet &amp;amp; bitter. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Tiramasu -- compliments the beer because it is a &quot;heavier&quot; dessert (creamy custard) and has a similar taste profile (bitter &amp;amp; sweet)&#xA;*Coffee Ice Cream Float with Old Rasputin -- this is an excellent example of how to turn beer into a dessert. Both are creamy, sweet &amp;amp; bitter. Excellent match for eachother.&#xA;*Cheesecake -- Cheesecake is a great example of a dessert worthy of an Imperial Stout. It is rich, thick and sweet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you are not into pairing your beer with a dessert. You can to bring it to the dinner table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer and cheese are a fantastic pairing -- across the board. Yet, making the perfect pairing takes a little practice and focus. Not every beer can pair with every cheese. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imperial Stouts tend to pair very well with crumbly/blue-veined cheeses such as feta, stilton, gorgonzola. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, now that we have that piece of information we can try to create a dish around this pairing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry to all the vegetarians, but I have to go straight to beef. We have two options here: 1. poor man's meal or 2. more &quot;upscale&quot; meal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us start with the high-end option. I would cut straight to a steak -- whatever cut you prefer most, with nice marbling. I would grill or pan-sear the steak. Nothing more than med-rare. Top with a creamy blue cheese sauce -- or just blue cheese crumbles. NOW. I don't want to stop here. In order to really give POW to the dish and help bring out the sweetness of the beer -- I want to add a &quot;sweet&quot; component to the dish. In my head, I envision a port-cherry reduction sauce. Pair the dish with some rosemary roasted potatoes and sauteed spinach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the &quot;poor man's&quot; version, I would go straight for a burger. Same idea, fatty meat grilled no more than med-rare. Top with either blue cheese crumbles or cream sauce. In this situation, I would incorporate sweetness into the dish by adding balsamic caramelized onions to the burger. As for a &quot;sauce&quot; -- I would steer far away from mustard &amp;amp; ketchup. A butter grilled bun would suffice, but if a sauce is needed -- I would make a 1/2 and BBQ- 1/2 mayo blend. Adds just a tinge of sweetness and creaminess without being to over-bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay. That is all I have for now. More food &amp;amp; beer pairing lessons to come!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;THE BEER WENCH&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="365" LastActivityDate="2009-12-28T19:47:58.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-29T04:56:24.100" Score="8" ViewCount="647" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the time frame for dry-hopping in secondary?  How soon can I bottle, and how long before tannins/off flavors leech out of the hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="bryan" LastActivityDate="2009-12-29T15:33:47.673" Title="Dry hopping in secondary..." Tags="|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2009-12-29T13:20:39.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try and give my dry hop 1 week 2 at the most. Hop aroma quickly diminishes so I try and get the beer out and kegged or bottles after a week. When &quot;life&quot; happens and you find yourself dry hopping for 3 or 4 weeks I notice less aroma but never off flavors. It must take an extended period before any negative effects begin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastActivityDate="2009-12-29T13:20:39.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="998" CreationDate="2009-12-29T13:32:05.267" Score="6" ViewCount="1494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been bottling my beer for years now and am just getting in to kegging. I would love to start to dry hop directly in the keg but am worried about sediment in my beer. Is dry hopping in the keg even an option or should I stick to dry hopping in the carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T01:48:34.230" Title="Dry hopping in the keg." Tags="|dry-hop|keg|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="997" CreationDate="2009-12-29T13:39:32.377" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a thing called a SureScreen that can slip over the dip tube of the keg so you can dry hop in the keg.  Here's the description from Northern Brewer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The SureScreen is a welded stainless steel screen that slips onto your racking cane or keg dip tube and filters out fruit or dry hops from the fermenter or whole hops and trub from the kettle. Also allows dry hopping to be done directly in the keg. Stainless steel construction makes it easy to sanitize (do not use bleach!). Not recommended for use with plastic racking tubes or plastic fermenters. Pellet hops have a tendency to clog the SureScreen - it works far better with whole hops&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="398" LastActivityDate="2009-12-29T13:39:32.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="997" CreationDate="2009-12-29T15:05:30.383" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will sanitize a mesh bag, put the whole hops in the bag, roll it up and shove it up near the top of the keg, between the dip tube and the keg wall.  When you drink about a gallon of your beer, the hops will be suspended above the beer preventing over-exposure.  I've done this at least a dozen times with great results.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2009-12-29T15:05:30.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="976" CreationDate="2009-12-29T15:13:11.797" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing you must learn how to do is make a yeast starter.  This is simpler than making beer but your sanitation must be very good, don't be intimidated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast Starter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix malt extract and water to make two quarts of 1.030 to 1.040 gravity starter wort. Consider optionally adding yeast nutrient.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sterilize this by boiling for 10 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool to pitching temperature - in the low 70's F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitize a little fermenter - a half gallon glass jug or similar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix the starter wort and your yeast. Shake 4-5 minutes to oxygenate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover with sanitized tin foil, or an airlock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let sit in a cool, dark place for 8-12 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pour a little off the top and taste it before you pitch the starter into your beer.  If it tastes off, &lt;em&gt;do not use&lt;/em&gt;.  Re-evaluate your sanitary technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a 2-3 liter Erlenmeyer flask is great for this because you can heat it directly and transfer right into a ice bath to cool, eliminating step 4 above. I cracked a flask on an electric burner, so be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/starter_faq.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mr Malty's yeast starter FAQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quick Techniques&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you know how to grow yeast outside the beer fermenter, there are a few easy things you can do to stretch your yeast.  The easiest way is if you buy White Labs pitchable tubes only use half or a third of a tube to make a starter. Spray the cap and threads with sanitizer and re-cap.  Try not to get too much sanitizer into the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy the WYeast smack packs you can do something similar with a sterilized mason jar.  Boil a quart mason jar &amp;amp; lid for 10 minutes, cool and pour the contents of the smack pack into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast Washing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is another easy way to get more out of your yeast.  Instead of splitting and growing yeast &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you make beer, washing cleans trub off yeast you have already used.  There is an illustrated post on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/yeast-washing-illustrated-41768/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HomebrewTalk&lt;/a&gt; which I will summarize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil four pint mason jars and a two quart jar about 20 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove jars &amp;amp; cap, keeping them filled with the boiled water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After transferring beer off the trub, pour the (cooled) sterilized water from the big jar into the fermenter &amp;amp; swirl&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let this mixture settle for 20 minutes. The mixture should begin to separate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Without disturbing the bottom layer fill the larger jar with the mixture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the large jar settle for another 20 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour out the water from the pint mason jars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Without disturbing the bottom layer in the large jar, fill the mason jars from the larger jar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cap the pint jars, &lt;strong&gt;label them&lt;/strong&gt;, and put them in the refrigerator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are ready to reuse the washed yeast, make a starter from one of the pint jars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Culturing Yeast From Bottles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/367/topfermented&quot;&gt;topfermented&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/976/how-to-grow-yeast/988#988&quot;&gt;explained here&lt;/a&gt; you can grow yeast out of bottles of beer.  You need very careful sanitary technique because you are working with small quantities of good yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T12:00:27.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="976" CreationDate="2009-12-29T15:14:24.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;HA!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the best discription I've found yet on how to culture your own yeast.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/slanting-yeast-133103/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/slanting-yeast-133103/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have this book which teaches you handling techniques&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/first-steps-in-yeast-culture.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/first-steps-in-yeast-culture.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use yeast from batch to batch, though I'd recommend washing the yeast to prevent over pitching and remove trub.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/yeast-washing-illustrated-41768/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/yeast-washing-illustrated-41768/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2009-12-29T15:14:24.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2009-12-29T15:18:38.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I immerse it in two cups of boiling water for 15 minutes, then toss it in the secondary. I always add the water as well with good results. I also keep a 1.75 LT bottle of Jim Beam half full with bourbon and the rest with Med toast French oak chips so they are always soaking up that great flavor to add to Bourbon stouts. The chips pick up a lot of the great bourbon flavor and stay sanatized due to the high alcohol. Both ways have worked well for me depending on what kind of flavor you are looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastActivityDate="2009-12-29T15:18:38.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2009-12-29T15:33:47.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a wealth of information from three guys who know hops on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/Brew-Strong-12-08-08-Dry-Hopping&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dry-hopping episode&lt;/a&gt; of Brew Strong.  Jamil, John Palmer, and Mike &quot;Tasty&quot; McDole (who won the Sam Adam's Longshot Competition with an awesome IPA) cover all aspects of dry hopping your beer to get the best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They reveal that you only need a few days of dry hopping to get great hop aroma and how long before before grassy or vegetal off-flavors begin to come out of the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2009-12-29T15:33:47.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="952" CreationDate="2009-12-29T16:47:07.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without a major increase in heat, I can't see how your bottle conditioned beer would get much better or worse.  Isn't that the purpose of conditioning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="393" LastActivityDate="2009-12-29T16:47:07.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="997" CreationDate="2009-12-29T17:49:30.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those using pellet hops, the stainless steel mesh balls usually used for steeping tea are an option. I've used ones I bought from Northern Brewer on several batches and each one can hold up to about an ounce, though I try to go lighter to make sure liquid can flow through and around the hops. I typically just toss the SS balls in there and leave them until the keg blows. I've had some batches where the hop aroma just kept getting more and more intense as the keg stayed on tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to consider: Although they are billed as all stainless, the pin that connects the closure will eventually corrode away in beer. When that happens I just tie them shut with dental floss and hope I haven't ingested any carcinogens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="376" LastActivityDate="2009-12-29T17:49:30.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1009" CreationDate="2009-12-29T18:59:04.533" Score="7" ViewCount="2877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an extract brewer and every brew I have done the OG was lower than the intended OG, (my OG is always lower than the recipe's OG). For example I brewed the stout recipe below from beertools.com and my OG was only 1.070 not 1.078. Assuming my hydrometer is accurate and my readings are correct. Could this be caused by not boiling malt extract long enough or steeping the grains for too long/too high temp? What causes OG to be lower than it should be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Category Stout &#xA;Subcategory Foreign Extra Stout &#xA;Recipe Type Extract &#xA;Batch Size 5 gal. &#xA;Volume Boiled 3 gal. &#xA;Mash Efficiency 72 % &#xA;Total Grain/Extract 11.65 lbs. &#xA;Total Hops 2.0 oz. &#xA;1.00 lbs. Maris Otter Pale info &#xA;.90 lbs. Roasted Barley info &#xA;.85 lbs. Belgian Aromatic info &#xA;0.60 lbs. Belgian Special B info &#xA;0.30 lbs. American Black Patent info &#xA;5 lbs. Liquid Amber Extract info &#xA;2 lbs. Dry Light Extract info &#xA;.5 lbs. Candi Sugar Amber info &#xA;.5 lbs. Dark Brown Sugar info &#xA;1 oz. Magnum (Pellets, 14.50 %AA) boiled 60 min. info &#xA;0.50 oz. Styrian Goldings (Pellets, 6.00 %AA) boiled 15 min. info &#xA;0.50 oz. Styrian Goldings (Pellets, 6.00 %AA) boiled 1 min. info &#xA;Yeast :  White Labs WLP500 Trappist Ale info &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original Gravity Predicted 1.078&#xA;Terminal Gravity Predicted 1.016&#xA;Color Predicted  32.14 SRM&#xA;Bitterness Predicted 56.4 IBU&#xA;Alcohol Predicted (%volume) 8.2 %&#xA;96 % overall compliance &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Trav" LastActivityDate="2009-12-29T20:00:43.250" Title="What causes Original Gravity to be lower than it should be?" Tags="|specific-gravity|final-gravity|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1007" CreationDate="2009-12-29T19:11:24.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;it could be inefficient mashing in your minimash. Do you sparge it at all? ie when you're removing the grain bag pour a little water through the grain to try to get the remaining sugar out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be you're measuring your gravity at the incorrect temperature that your hydrometer is calibrated to. Some hydrometers are calibrated to measure accurately at 60F some at 68F and if your wort is at a different temp you will have a slightly inaccurate reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;KOTMF has got a gravity/temperature adjustment tool on their site that I use: &lt;a href=&quot;http://kotmf.com/tools/hydrom.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://kotmf.com/tools/hydrom.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2009-12-29T19:11:24.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1007" CreationDate="2009-12-29T20:00:43.250" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are using the hydrometer right:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be your efficiency in the steep.  If that is the case you are working at 64% efficiency instead of 72% like the recipe says. ( 70 GU * 0.72 efficiency / 78 GU = 64.6% )  Rinse the grain bag with hot water around 170º.  That will get more sugar out of the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much wort did you get?  If you ended up with 5.5 gallons instead of 5 then it would be 1.070. ( 78 GU * 5 gal / 70 GU )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastActivityDate="2009-12-29T20:00:43.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-30T13:31:56.707" Score="1" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you determine the right temp?  Should everything be brewed @ the same temp or can different temps offer different drinkable results?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first try at my own recipe was steeped @ 120 degrees for about 15min then brought to a rolling boil for an hour.  I put the hops in at different stages and ended up boiling off about a gallon.  The whole experiment yielded about 4 gal instead of the 5 I was going for. Now my beer tastes &quot;Worty&quot; Should I have increased the temp?  Or is it b/c I didn't compensate for the boil off?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="CubeMate" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T20:42:35.710" Title="Is it HOT enough for ya!" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1012" CreationDate="2009-12-30T14:59:40.950" Score="7" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our club acquired a 65 gallon American oak wine barrel that we want to age beer in.  With the holidays upon us it will be a few more weeks before we can organize a club brew and the barrel is standing upright, dry in my garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I store the barrel until we can get some beer in it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-18T05:25:49.070" Title="Keeping a barrel" Tags="|barrel|fermenter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1011" CreationDate="2009-12-30T17:02:40.587" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found this over at &lt;a href=&quot;http://winebarrels.com/carenew.html&quot;&gt;http://winebarrels.com/carenew.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure I have read similar things on homebrew forums in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STORING AN EMPTY BARREL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very best way to maintain a wine barrel is to ensure it is never empty of wine! However this is not always possible so something must be done to keep the barrel sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An untreated empty barrel will quickly begin to produce moulds and bacteria. Replacing the air in the barrel with an atmosphere high in SO2 will effectively eliminate this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the barrel is tight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse the barrel well and drain, bung down, for 24 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use one of the following methods to ensure bacteria free storage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Method 1 - Sulphur Sticks&#xA;These should be burned in a device that will collect any drips of molten sulphur. Place the stick in the burner which is suspended from the bung. Light the stick, place it in the barrel and allow it to burn completely. Re-sulphur every 6-8 weeks.&#xA;Quantity:   225L Barrel 	approx. 1/4 - 1/3 stick&#xA;    100L Barrel 	approx. 1/4 stick&#xA;    &amp;lt; 100 L Barrel 	approx. 1/8 stick&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Method 2 - Sulphite Solution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make up a 2% KMS solution and place a small amount (about 10% of barrel capacity) in the barrel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the solution every 6-8 weeks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SOLUTIONS TABLE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potassium Metabisulphite&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2% Solution -- 100 gr per 4L water or&#xA;16 tsp. per 1 Imp. Gallon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100 ppm Solution -- 6gr per 23 L water&#xA;or 1 tsp. per 5 Imp. Gallons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sodium Percarbonate&#xA;Standard Cleaning Solution  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2/3 - 3/4 cup per full 225L barrel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/3 cup - 1/2 cup per full 100L&#xA;barrel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/4 cup per full 46L or 50L barrel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/8 cup per full 23 or 25 L barrel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Citric Acid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 cups per full 225L barrel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 1/2 cups per full 100L barrel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2/3 cup per full 46 or 50 L barrel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/3 cup per full 23 or 25 L barrel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2009-12-30T17:02:40.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1015" CreationDate="2009-12-30T18:18:39.780" Score="10" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keg my beer but I would like to enter some of it into competitions.  I've bottled directly out of the tap, but carbonation suffers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you do in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-03-20T14:04:50.780" LastActivityDate="2010-03-20T14:04:50.780" Title="Competitions &amp; Kegging" Tags="|competition|judging|bottling|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1013" CreationDate="2009-12-30T19:06:53.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For minimal carbonation loss you would use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/counter-pressure-filler.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;counterpressure filler&lt;/a&gt;. It allows you to purge the bottle with co2 and fill it will beer. The bottle is constantly under pressure while filling. I have a friend who fills all of his bottles this way for competition, and it is also great if you want to just fill a few bottles for aging, or give to friends. Jon Plise has a great example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYiatkRI850&amp;amp;NR=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; on YouTube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2009-12-30T19:06:53.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1013" CreationDate="2009-12-30T19:32:02.613" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this online a while ago and have done it this way ever since:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filling from a Keg:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.Keg of beer must be chilled and carbonated.  I like to over carbonate by a few tenths (0.2) of a volume of CO2 to compensate for lost CO2.  (some of that lost CO2 is a good thing as I’ll state later)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.I use a black Cobra/Picnic tap to dispense the beer from.  I modify the tap into a filler by using a piece of tubing that will stick right over the spout of the tap (usually 3/8 ID tubing).  The length of the tubing need only be long enough to reach the bottle of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.I chill down the bottles I plan to fill.  This reduces CO2 loss and foaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.Right before I am ready to bottle (bottles and caps washed and sanitized), I dial down the CO2 on my regulator to zero PSI, then I burp the keg to release all the head pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5.I put the tap with tubing filler into my first bottle and pull the trigger.  Then I slowly dial up the regulator until I have just enough pressure to get the beer flowing at a decent rate.  But not too fast to get excessive foaming.  This can be a little tricky to manage the regulator and the bottle filler at the same time.  But once you get the pressure set and the beer flowing; that’s it with fussing over the regulator settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.Fill the rest of my bottles and cap them.  Getting a little foam while filling is a good thing as it helps to purge out the ambient air and O2.  This minimizes oxidation of the beer after bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7.Once all the bottles are filled I reset the pressure on the regulator to my normal carbonating and dispensing pressure to keep the beer from going flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastActivityDate="2009-12-30T19:32:02.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="982" CreationDate="2009-12-30T19:46:16.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few cases of the swing top bottles in a 1 ltr size. I have been using them for years now without any issues. Every batch I make we use 1 of these bottles to store for at least a year and have had no problems when finally cracking one open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastActivityDate="2009-12-30T19:46:16.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1019" CreationDate="2009-12-30T20:00:04.900" Score="5" ViewCount="1351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not had my kegging system for long but have had a good amount of use from it already. How often should all the o-Rings or small little black seals be replaced? They seem fine now but I would hate to have issues later just because I didn't keep up on the maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T16:23:40.743" Title="Replace o-Rings on Keg?" Tags="|keg|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="982" CreationDate="2009-12-30T20:02:39.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use old Grolsch bottles all the time, with no problems. I keep them in a box (out of the light) when priming, then they go into the fridge when ready, or the basement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get many re-uses out of the rubber gaskets, but do inspect them for cracks/tears that may prevent a proper seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2009-12-30T20:02:39.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1017" CreationDate="2009-12-30T20:07:17.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep a few spares on-hand. When a keg starts to leak track it down &amp;amp; replace the problem o-ring. A leaky o-ring won't cause too much loss.  You can slather some food-grade silicone on a seal to keep it from leaking if you don't have a replacement on hand.  Keg-lube (or the generic food-grade silicone) is invaluable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also a good idea to remove, clean and sanitize them before filling a fresh keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-01T15:51:06.427" LastActivityDate="2010-01-01T15:51:06.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1021" CreationDate="2009-12-30T21:13:18.800" Score="10" ViewCount="809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been home brewing for along time now, but have never kegged my beer.  I hear a lot of people saying how much easier and better it is, but my main concern is the cost and equipment needed.  What are the basics required (i.e. what would you consider a MUST) and what is just store owners trying to sell me gadgets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="366" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-02-19T23:02:39.783" LastActivityDate="2010-02-19T23:02:39.783" Title="Bottling vs. Kegging" Tags="|kegging|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1020" CreationDate="2009-12-30T21:20:30.037" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I finally took the plunge I felt the same way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I have found are the essentials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CO2 tank&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 gas quick connect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 beer quick connect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 cobra tap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food grade quality beer line (for beer and gas line)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 CO2 regulator&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything else seems to be extra and icing on the cake. Get the basic set up and you can add parts as you go from there. You will not regret the upgrade. Also if you buy your CO2 tank and regulator from a gas or welding supply place rather than your local homebrew shop you can save a bunch of money as the markup at the homebrew shops are substantial in my experience. I don’t like giving advice to not support your local shop but the savings is worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastActivityDate="2009-12-30T21:20:30.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1020" CreationDate="2009-12-31T00:32:43.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got a kegging system for Xmas after bottling for years, so I'm still new to it, but I am  LOVING it!!!  I got so sick of bottling that it was starting to ruin the fun of brewing for me.  Scrubbing dirty bottles for 3 hours and more at a time is not my idea of a fun hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm drinking some perfectly conditioned IPA this very moment that went into the keg last Friday (5 days ago).  No more waiting 3-4 weeks!  I've actually been drinking it since Saturday, but I think it didn't condition completely until today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere in my explorations of &lt;em&gt;how-to-keg&lt;/em&gt; that &quot;no homebrewer has ever regretted moving from bottling on to kegging&quot;, and I now understand why.  It's so much easier!  And you know how many people will say that beer at bars tastes better on tap?  Same seems to apply to homebrews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I  agree with J Times, go with the re-conditioned kegs.  They work fine from everything I've heard and you'll save a ton of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for stuff you don't need, I read that the carbonation stones many places sell are unnecessary, and just ends up being another item to clean.  From my limited, one-batch experience, I'd agree that using one is unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find &quot;complete kegging systems&quot; from many sites that give you everything you need except for the CO2--most will send you an empty tank with the system that you can get filled or swapped out at your local keg distributor, or other places like gas supply shops for welders, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best deal we found was at Rebel Brewer:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rebelbrewer.com/shoppingcart/products/Complete-Homebrew-Kegging-Kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rebelbrewer.com/shoppingcart/products/Complete-Homebrew-Kegging-Kit.html&lt;/a&gt; .  I've seen other shops selling them for $100 more and up (and yes, that's with the re-conditioned keg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="markskar" LastActivityDate="2009-12-31T00:32:43.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2009-12-31T00:50:32.857" Score="3" ViewCount="748" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few questions pertaining to brewing additives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How would you sanitize orange zest, whole nutmegs, and cinnamon sticks for use in a brew? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When would you add the aforementioned items to the kettle/brew?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it safe to presume that it is best to crush the nutmeg, we have whole nutmegs, before adding?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any suggestions on quantity of addition of each of the aforementioned items?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="410" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T10:16:46.020" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T15:27:20.467" Title="Sanitising and adding homebrew additives" Tags="|additives|sanitation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1023" CreationDate="2009-12-31T06:08:53.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling is a great way to sanitize. Adding any of these in the last 15 minutes of the boil will do it. And 10-15 minutes for spices is typical (I think) for these flavor additives, but 5 minutes shouldn't be a problem (you won't boil off as much aroma. Like with hops!). Too long, and the flavor may be unpleasant. Yes, crush the nutmeg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2009-12-31T06:08:53.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1017" CreationDate="2009-12-31T06:13:47.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for cracks in the rings also. An obvious clue to change them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2009-12-31T06:13:47.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1023" CreationDate="2009-12-31T13:06:38.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to use a grater/zester for lemon and orange peel as well as whole spices like cinnamon and nutmeg. It does a great job of making small pieces so that the surface area of the peel or spice is greater for a fast and even absorption of flavor. The small grated pieces will drop out of solution in time so you don't have to worry about them sticking around in your beer too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastActivityDate="2009-12-31T13:06:38.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1023" CreationDate="2009-12-31T13:19:42.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Papazian has the following to say about the amount to use for the spices in question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cinnamon - Two teaspoons of ground or 3-4 inches (7-10 cm) of a stick during the final 10-15 minutes of the boil. (Though with &quot;small amounts, its flavor is not quite identifiable, yet its presence is noticed by all.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Orange peel - &quot;About 1/2 oz. (14g) will do for 5 gallons.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He doesn't mention nutmeg in the CJoHB, but my guess on it is that the same amounts would suffice for the nutmeg (2 teaspoons of ground, preferably freshly ground or shaved). I would not recommend using whole nuts(?) of nutmeg because I don't think they have enough surface area to impart enough flavor into your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastActivityDate="2009-12-31T13:19:42.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="848" CreationDate="2009-12-31T15:14:43.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I feel like I could throw a vanilla bean in just about anything dark. I love a subtle creamy vanilla flavor and the aroma it adds is awesome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastEditorUserId="403" LastEditDate="2009-12-31T16:10:10.683" LastActivityDate="2009-12-31T16:10:10.683" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2009-12-31T15:14:43.370" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1030" CreationDate="2009-12-31T15:28:31.597" Score="4" ViewCount="3918" Body="&lt;p&gt;What tools or tricks is everyone using to cool their wort down after the boil? How long does it take you to get down below 70 degrees? I am using an older copper wort chiller (hooks up to a garden hose) that a friend of mine made and has worked okay in the past but its getting kind of beat up and losing its nice coil shape so I was thinking of an upgrade. In the Michigan winter I am able to get our wort down below 70 in about 20 minutes and in the summer about 30 minutes. Any advice or tips would be much appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2009-12-31T19:56:25.267" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T07:38:56.973" Title="Wort Chiller Cool Down Times?" Tags="|wort|chiller|equipment|process|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2010-01-01T14:35:35.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used the bathtub method, a home made immersion chiller (IC) and a counterflow chiller (CFC).  My beer improved by a great leap when I switched to the CFC.  I have not timed it, however I estimate it takes me around 20 minutes to chill 10 gallons of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the summer in this part of Texas the ground water is about 82º making it pretty much impossible to get a good chill.  To augment my CFC I will run the cooling water through an immersion chiller submerged in an ice bath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next project is to set up a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;whirlpool immersion chiller&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TA2wZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TA2wZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;whirlpool immersion chiller&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The immersion chiller acts normally and the hot wort is circulated out of the kettle drain and returned to the inside of the chiller.  An IC is somewhat inefficient because only the wort surrounding it gets the benefit of chilling.  Moving the chiller around (or the wort around the chiller) speeds up the process.  A whirlpool speeds up the process tremendously.  To use this method you need a pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-08T07:38:56.973" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T07:38:56.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-01T17:30:36.447" Score="3" ViewCount="2879" Body="&lt;p&gt;This Saturday (1/2/09) will be my very first time brewing and I am considering my options as far as location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen some folks boiling their wort outside on a gas grill and the smiling people in &quot;The Complete Joy of Homebrewing&quot; do it right inside on their own kitchen stove.  And I'm sure the first beer was made from wort cooked on an open fire.  Is there a place that is better?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is January and 12 degrees outside, I think we will be setting up inside this time, regardless, but am still curious as to everyone's specific setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="411" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-02-09T16:25:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T22:06:19.710" Title="Where do you brew?" Tags="|wort|boil|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1031" CreationDate="2010-01-01T18:07:54.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My stove sucks ... so after farting around with that the first time, my first major purchase was a out door propane burner and I have never looked back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live here is  SoCal, so it is easy to be outside year round, but most of the guys I know in my homebrew club all brew in their garages. Mostly for easy cleanup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="338" LastActivityDate="2010-01-01T18:07:54.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1037" CreationDate="2010-01-01T22:54:04.607" Score="11" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I completed my first batch of homebrew this morning, but I forgot one potentially (okay, not potentially, definitely) important aspect of the whole process: the yeast. I didn't forget it, per se, but I forgot that I was supposed to smack the smack pack three hours in advance (per the instructions on the Wyeast Activator package, it says three hours in advance or pitch immediately). Being a beer wunderkind, I split the difference and smacked it 90 minutes before pitch time. It had expanded some before I pitched it, but it wasn't quite full. Should I be concerned? More importantly, if I don't see fermentation activity in the next 24-36 hours, can I just put in more yeast (properly prepared this time)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-02T02:21:33.907" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T23:33:47.720" Title="Smack Pack and Pitching Time" Tags="|yeast|smack-pack|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1031" CreationDate="2010-01-02T00:03:27.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the hobby.  The best place is somewhere comfortable where you can get a good rolling boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most kitchen stoves take ages to get five gallons of wort up to a boil and don't keep it there very well. For smaller boil volumes the stove makes sense.  A stand-alone propane burner is great for handling 5-10 gallons of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have bitter winters or blistering summers and would rather brew inside consider going electric.  You can size your brewhouse appropriately and need not worry about carbon monoxide poisoning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-02T00:03:27.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1036" CreationDate="2010-01-02T01:08:03.523" Score="6" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably an incredibly stupid question, but I thought I would ask anyway.&#xA;While the wort is cooling down is it recommended to stir it to help the cool down process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="411" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-02T02:14:46.290" LastActivityDate="2010-01-02T19:06:11.920" Title="Stirring the wort..." Tags="|wort|process|chilling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1035" CreationDate="2010-01-02T02:14:17.493" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It helps to get the wort moving around to cool evenly.  You run the risk of introducing contaminates from the air or stirring utensil, but it's pretty low. Use a sanitized or boiled spoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-02T02:14:17.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1033" CreationDate="2010-01-02T02:21:16.107" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Relax &amp;amp; have a homebrew.  The pouch in the smack pack contains a little food and nutrients which gets the yeast going.  You pitched the yeast (and pouch contents) into a sea of food and nutrients.  Your fermentation will lag just a little but should take off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-02T02:21:16.107" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1035" CreationDate="2010-01-02T18:24:40.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a wort chiller, so I do an ice bath and occasionally stir just to get it to cool evenly.  The most important thing to remember is sanitize the spoon.  Everything the wort touches from this point forward needs to be sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="398" LastActivityDate="2010-01-02T18:24:40.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1031" CreationDate="2010-01-02T18:34:49.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an outdoor propane burner and love it.  Unfortunately, it's 20 degrees and 30 mph winds today, so I am going to brew on my stove.  My gas stove top gets a good rolling boil of about 2.5 to 3 gallons.  I have done it before with great success.  I wouldn't try burning propane indoors, though.  You run the risk of a build up of fumes, and a drop in oxygen due to the burner consuming it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="398" LastActivityDate="2010-01-02T18:34:49.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1035" CreationDate="2010-01-02T19:06:11.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I create a whirlpool in my wort while it is still boiling, and then drop the wort chiller in. The whirlpool lasts for quite a while, and helps to clarify the wort. I also do this when I've had to use an ice bath. But I'd recommend a wort chiller :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-01-02T19:06:11.920" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1031" CreationDate="2010-01-02T21:57:22.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also brew on an outdoor burner.  Sure beats cleaning up the stove.  The only thing that sucks is brewing in the rain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing is to make sure you're comfortable, since you're going to be at least somewhat near it for 4 - 6 hours at a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastActivityDate="2010-01-02T21:57:22.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-03T00:58:40.087" Score="6" ViewCount="400" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed my very first batch today.  It is a stout and is sitting in my basement as I type.  I would call the day a success--a whole lot more work than I thought.  Hopefully only two things went wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had a little bit of a boil over when we were still trying to get a handle on how to control the turkey fryer heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I broke my hydrometer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your opinions, how serious are these issues?  Anything I need to throw the brew out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="411" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-03T14:16:41.873" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T00:03:11.663" Title="First batch tragedies?" Tags="|boilover|problems|hydrometer|first-time|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1042" CreationDate="2010-01-03T01:33:44.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you broke your hydrometer, where was it? Any chance there could be glass in your wort?  That would be my only concern right now.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've been there, kinda.  One of my homebrew buddies broke a thermometer with some sort of metal weights it in during our boil, ugh).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastActivityDate="2010-01-03T01:33:44.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1042" CreationDate="2010-01-03T04:29:29.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the hydrometer only broke in the sanitizing bucket, you're almost certainly fine. Boiling over, from my understanding, is going to happen to everyone from time to time. As far as the hydrometer, if you didn't get an OG calculation, you can always go to beercalculus.com and enter the recipe you used. It will give you an approximate OG based on your recipe. I just did the same thing when I didn't take a big enough sample for my hydrometer before putting the fermentation lock on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and congratulations on finishing your first batch. My first one is bubbling away merrily, and it is quite exciting! Happy homebrewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastActivityDate="2010-01-03T04:29:29.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1048" CreationDate="2010-01-03T14:34:41.197" Score="7" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small amount of hops (1 oz) in a ziplock bag in the fridge, it's been there about a year.  I also have about 1/2 lb of unmilled grain in the fridge in a ziplock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will these ingredients be ok to use in a future batch of beer? How old is &quot;too old?&quot;  Should I be storing them differently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-13T23:56:21.387" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T01:02:30.147" Title="Old grain and hops stored in fridge for 1 year - ok to use?" Tags="|storage|hops|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1046" CreationDate="2010-01-03T15:41:42.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No idea about the grain, but my understanding is that if you press the air out of the Ziplock and store the hops in the freezer they can be stored almost indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastActivityDate="2010-01-03T15:41:42.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1046" CreationDate="2010-01-03T17:37:55.653" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taste the grain to check. If it is not musty, moldy or stale, go for it.  Leaving it unmilled is a big advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smell the hops.  As hops age they lose their bittering power and &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; take on a cheesy flavor. A year is probably okay, but you won't get the same level of bitterness or flavor out of them versus fresh hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continue to keep your ingredients in the freezer.  Try to get as much of the air out as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-03T17:37:55.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1031" CreationDate="2010-01-03T19:58:43.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Definitely&lt;/em&gt; DO NOT use propane in an enclosed area unless you want to run the risk of dying from carbon monoxide.  A &quot;well ventilated area&quot; is key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brew outdoors w/propane burner always.  Even in these cold Illinois winters (though admittedly not very often).  Invest in a remote thermometer so that you can retreat indoors when bringing the kettle to a boil (or when you don't need to baby-sit it) yet still watch the temperature.  (I always stay somewhere near a window so I can occasionally peek at it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had 0 luck using electric stoves (which is what I have in my house).  They just don't generate enough heat to bring anything much larger than 3 gallons of water to a boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastActivityDate="2010-01-03T19:58:43.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-03T20:33:26.780" Score="4" ViewCount="1583" Body="&lt;p&gt;Want to use Cara Pils-Dextrine in my next brew to add body and aid in head retention. I have not made the jump to all grain yet, and I am doing a partial mash.  Will steeping/mini-mashing Cara Pils like a specialty grain work, or do I need to do a full mash to get my desired results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="bryan" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-05T14:25:21.260" LastActivityDate="2010-01-08T02:20:03.747" Title="Cara Pils Dextrine" Tags="|steeping|mash|conversion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1031" CreationDate="2010-01-04T14:09:37.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an outdoor burner and have never brewed indoors. Here in Michigan winter brewing is one of my favorite. Nothing beats brewing during a cold snowy day with nothing to keep you warm other than your winter gear, warm imperial beer and the heat from the boil. I would imagine the comforts of indoor brewing is nice but the outdoor brew day is where its at for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T14:09:37.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1050" CreationDate="2010-01-04T16:09:27.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Short Answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steeping CaraPils is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Reasoning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the goals of mashing is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mashing#Conversion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;conversion&lt;/a&gt;, which breaks down starches present in grain to sugars that yeast can eat.  Some malts are converted in the &lt;em&gt;malting&lt;/em&gt; process making it unnecessary to &lt;em&gt;mash&lt;/em&gt; for conversion. The HomebrewTalk wiki lists &quot;mash req'd&quot; column on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Malts%5FChart&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;malts chart&lt;/a&gt; indicating which malts must be mashed to convert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-05T14:23:47.520" LastActivityDate="2010-01-05T14:23:47.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1010" CreationDate="2010-01-04T16:29:34.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should steep at 155 F for 30-60 minutes then remove the grain bag. 120F is in the range of the protien rest, used when mashing to break down the protiens of undermodified malt or unmalted or flaked wheat.  This is not neccessary when making an extract brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's besides the point.  The worty taste is probably due to your fermention not completing, or not adding enough hops.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you expected to produce 5 gallons and only produced 4 gallons of wort your original gravity was probably a lot higher than you expected.  If it was higher than 1.060 then you made a high gravity beer, which puts added stress on the yeast requiring additional steps such as yeast starter and lots of oxygenation.  You should check the final gravity of the beer before bottling.  If it's high, then fermention is not complete and you should give it more time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your beer did finish, and it still tastes sweet, then add more bittering hops next time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T16:29:34.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1059" CreationDate="2010-01-04T19:14:04.560" Score="9" ViewCount="1621" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering how this can be converted to an extract recipe. Initially it was thought we could just do 14lbs (US 2 row) * .75 = 10.5lbs of extract, but then the question was asked if the rest of the specialty grains would just be steeped like normal? Steeping like 7.75 lbs of grain seems like an awful lot. Should they all be steeped, and if so, any recommendations on how to steep that many lbs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewcallab.wordpress.com/the-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This 5 gallon Imperial Porter recipe is the product of discussions between the xBrewers involved based on each one’s individual experiences and opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Estimated Stats (at 70% brewhouse efficiency)&#xA;&#xA;PBG: 1.068                       SRM: 34.6&#xA;OG: 1.100                        IBU: 50&#xA;FG: 1.024                        ABV: 10.2%&#xA;&#xA;Yeast- (this will be the brewer’s choice,&#xA;original recipe calls for Wyeast Thames Valley Ale Yeast)&#xA;&#xA;Grain Bill (154 degrees F 90 min mash)&#xA;&#xA;14lbs- US 2 Row&#xA;1lb 8oz- UK Brown Malt&#xA;1lb- US Chocolate Malt&#xA;1lb 8oz- UK Amber Malt                              &#xA;1lb- US Carapils&#xA;8oz- UK Wheat&#xA;4oz- US Caramel 20L&#xA;2lb-  US Munich 20L&#xA;&#xA;Hop Schedule (90 min boil)&#xA;&#xA;1 oz- Magnum (90 min)&#xA;1/2 oz- UK Fuggle (10 min from end)&#xA;1/2 oz- US Willamette (10 min from end)&#xA;1/2 oz- UK Fuggle (at turnoff)&#xA;1/2 oz- US Willamette  (at turnoff)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T00:12:48.847" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T13:03:28.077" Title="All-Grain to Extract and Steeping" Tags="|all-grain|extract|conversion|steeping|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-04T19:14:29.243" Score="12" ViewCount="1123" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seems to be controversy whether or not aluminum pots are acceptable for home brewing. What are the pros and cons of brewing with aluminum?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="414" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-10T23:36:01.617" LastActivityDate="2010-01-10T23:36:01.617" Title="Brewing with Aluminum Pots" Tags="|kettle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1055" CreationDate="2010-01-04T19:21:45.677" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminum is acceptable, just not as good as some other materials. It's relatively cheap, has good conductivity, and doesn't corrode too easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some problems you run into are corrosion when placed near other metals, though that shouldn't be too big a problem in homebrewing. But, let's say you left a copper chiller in it overnight by accident.. could be bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you can't use caustic cleaners or bleach. PBW works fine though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another pro is that it's light and easy to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an article from BYO on &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/projects-and-equipment/article/indices/20-build-it-yourself/1149-metallurgy-for-homebrewers&quot;&gt;Mettalurgy for Homebrewers&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T19:21:45.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1055" CreationDate="2010-01-04T19:22:46.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main problem with aluminum pots is that it oxidizes easily, which means that you can't use oxidating cleaners with them and oxidating cleaners are magical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But will they do all the horrible and nasty things that urban myth says they will do?  Not really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting resrouce:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Is_aluminum_safe_for_brewing%3F&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Is_aluminum_safe_for_brewing%3F&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T19:22:46.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1054" CreationDate="2010-01-04T19:27:20.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;7.75 lbs of steeped grains seems like a lot to me. I don't know how well those are going to fit in a grain bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestion 1 - Use two grain bags and two kettles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also not get all the flavors / sugars out of that many grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestion 2 - Steep for a full 60 minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this all in one big grain bag, a lot of the flavors and whatnot might get trapped in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestion 3 - Sparge. Or at least recirculate. Hold the grain bag above the kettle, and pour some hot water (170˚ or so) over it to rinse the grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all I've got. That's a massive bill. I hope it rocks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T19:27:20.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1054" CreationDate="2010-01-04T20:09:22.530" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, I think your conversion to extract is off.  You'll need 8.25 lbs of dry &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; 9.8 lbs of liquid. (See below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get amber, wheat and Munich malt extracts.  This leaves you with 3.75 lbs of steeping grains - a much more manageable amount.  Some wheat malts are a half-and-half mix of wheat and 2-row malts, so be sure to adjust your amounts accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All malts have a &quot;points per pound per gallon&quot; rating. This tells you how many &lt;em&gt;points&lt;/em&gt; of extract they yield when mashed.  2-row is usually rated at 37ppg. Therefore, 14 lbs of 2-row gives you 518 points. You then multiply that by the efficiency (70%) to get a total of 362.6 expected points from the mash.  Dry and liquid malt extracts are rated at 44 and 37 points respectively and don't suffer from efficiency. To get the weight of extract, divide 362.6 by the corresponding extract ppg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll leave it as an exercise to the reader to calculate the amounts of amber, wheat and Munich malt extracts needed.  The formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(lbs of grain) * (grain ppg) * (brewhouse efficiency) / (extract ppg)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T20:09:22.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1060" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-04T20:33:35.603" Score="6" ViewCount="1094" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm often tempted to buy my commonly used hop pellets online in bulk and storing them in my freezer.  A lot of the cheap bulk hops are from the previous year.  Assuming they are vacuum packed and frozen, is it safe to buy 2008 harvest hops or am I wasting my money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-01-13T18:08:23.337" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T05:15:22.847" Title="Buying bulk hops online" Tags="|hops|buying|ingredients|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1060" CreationDate="2010-01-04T20:40:25.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's safe if stored properly. Their bittering power will diminish with time - software like ProMash will help you estimate their current alpha acid content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before using them just take a whiff to tell if they have developed any cheesy aromas. You can always make a giant batch of lambic if they get too old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T20:40:25.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1010" CreationDate="2010-01-04T20:42:35.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends if you are making an extract brew or a partial-mash.  If you are making an extract (all the steeping grains are considered &quot;specialty malts&quot;) then the grains are mostly adding body and flavor and the temp shouldn't matter too much.  If you are doing a partial mash (ie, some of your grains are considered &quot;base malts&quot;) then you actually need to extract sugars and the temp matters a great deal.  If you don't get the temp right, then your starting gravity reading should reflect this, although since you yielded only 4 gallons, your starting gravity will be off anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as yielding only 4 gallons, you can either start your boil with 6-to-6.5 gallons if your kettle can handle it or you can just top if off with fresh water to the 5 gallon mark after the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T20:42:35.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1071" CreationDate="2010-01-04T20:53:04.333" Score="4" ViewCount="766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have 4 fridges at my house. One is for food. One is my kegerator. One is for beer to drink now. One is for beer to drink later. The beer for now is creeping into my food fridge, as the beer for later is creeping into my beer for now fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm getting at is I think I need another fridge. I'm looking at some wine fridges as possible long-term storage options. They all keep the bottles on their sides, which I'd rather not do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions of a good wine fridge on the cheaper side, or of a better long-term storage option more suited for beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-01-04T21:03:58.987" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T23:26:02.697" Title="Beer Refrigeration Suggestions (Long Term)" Tags="|cellaring|storage|refrigerator|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1068" CreationDate="2010-01-04T20:59:32.813" Score="6" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to clean a sankey pump it after I use it so it doesn't get moldy inside?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:35:48.793" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:35:48.793" Title="How do I clean a sankey pump?" Tags="|techniques|equipment|kegging|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1055" CreationDate="2010-01-04T21:05:28.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always hear the myth that using aluminum will cause Alzheimers and I'm surprised no one has asked it here.  This myth was debunked years ago. See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alzheimers.org.uk/site/scripts/documents_info.php?documentID=99&quot;&gt;Alzheimer's Society: Aluminium and Alzheimer's disease&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://alz.org/alzheimers_disease_myths_about_alzheimers.asp&quot;&gt;Alzheimer's Association: Alzheimer Myths&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T21:05:28.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1063" CreationDate="2010-01-04T21:07:53.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;4 Beer Fridges?!? Wow, sounds like it's time to start thinking about a walk in cooler.  Hit up your building supply recycling joint and find some cooler panels. Get a cheap AC unit, and a coolbot (google it).  Either frame out one in your basement or on your porch like a friend of mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a commercial fridge would work too, but how awesome would it be to have your own walk in cooler...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dig out a root cellar and use free old fashoned geo/thermal to keep your cellar beers cool. Plus you could have a secret beer bunker then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 beer Fridges?!?  that is impressive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jeff Bearer" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T21:07:53.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1063" CreationDate="2010-01-04T21:18:37.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the longer-term storage stuff, building an enclosure cooled by your current long-term fridge could be a good idea. I'm thinking of an insulated plywood box (cooled by your existing fridge) of the type that is typically thought of as a fermentation chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Dave Miller's Homebrewing Guide there was a design that I considered using for this purpose. Of course there are many other designs of this type available on the Web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway I would look in that direction over the wine fridge route due to cost and the small size of most wine fridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you could always just drink faster. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;JE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jeremiah" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T21:18:37.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1064" CreationDate="2010-01-04T21:22:40.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copy and pasted from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.doityourself.com/stry/cleaning-a-keg-tap-stepbystep&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;doityourself.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To begin cleaning the tap you will&#xA;  need to get keg tap detergent and mix&#xA;  it with water.    Check with your&#xA;  local liquor store to see if they&#xA;  carry a cleaning kit for a tap. The&#xA;  instructions on the kit will be able&#xA;  to tell you how much cleaning&#xA;  detergent and water needs to be mixed&#xA;  together. The mixture should be put&#xA;  into some sort of bottle that has a&#xA;  hand pump to produce the cleaning&#xA;  solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Find the tap's faucet and remove the&#xA;  knob. Once you have done that, you&#xA;  will need to put the knob, the faucet&#xA;  and the hose that produces the beer,&#xA;  into a bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Find the cleaning attachment in your&#xA;  kit and connect it to the faucet. Take&#xA;  the bucket with the other parts in it&#xA;  and place it under the main part of&#xA;  the keg. Then put the hose inside the&#xA;  bucket so the cleaning solution will&#xA;  be able to steam into the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You are now ready to pump the cleaning&#xA;  solution into the bucket. It is best&#xA;  to let the solution sit in the hose&#xA;  for a good amount of time to make sure&#xA;  that all bacteria is broken down. Your&#xA;  kit will tell you how long to soak the&#xA;  hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Take the bottle you used to pump the&#xA;  detergent and clean it thoroughly.&#xA;  Fill it with cold water (without any&#xA;  detergent) and pump the entire bottle&#xA;  of water into the hose. Use the other&#xA;  tools included in your kit, such as a&#xA;  wrench to unscrew the facuet and use&#xA;  the brush to clean out the keg and the&#xA;  faucet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rinse all the materials with cold&#xA;  water and allow them to dry completely&#xA;  before reassembling the unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now that your keg tap is clean, it can&#xA;  be put into storage to await your next&#xA;  party.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T21:22:40.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1054" CreationDate="2010-01-04T21:32:44.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I think the converted recipe would look like this. I ended up getting the ppg's from a bunch of different places, so I'm not positive they are right. Anyone see any problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amber: 1.5 * 32 * .7 / 37 = .91&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheat: .5 * 38 *.7 / 37 = .36&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Munich: 2 * 32 * .7 / 37 = 1.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pale: 14 * 37 * .7 / 37 = 9.8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recipe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Estimated Stats (at 70% brewhouse efficiency)&#xA;&#xA;PBG: 1.068                         SRM: 34.6&#xA;OG: 1.100                          IBU: 50&#xA;FG: 1.024                          ABV: 10.2%&#xA;&#xA;**Yeast**&#xA;(this will be the brewer’s choice, original recipe calls for Wyeast Thames Valley Ale Yeast)&#xA;&#xA;**Extract**&#xA;&#xA;9.8lbs Pale Malt Extract&#xA;.91lbs Amber Malt Extract&#xA;.36lbs Wheat Malt Extract&#xA;1.2lbs Munich Malt Extract&#xA;&#xA;**Steeping Grains**&#xA;&#xA;1lb 8oz- UK Brown Malt&#xA;1lb- US Chocolate Malt&#xA;1lb- US Carapils&#xA;4oz- US Caramel 20L&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;**Hop Schedule** (90 min boil)&#xA;&#xA;1 oz- Magnum (90 min)&#xA;1/2 oz- UK Fuggle (10 min from end)&#xA;1/2 oz- US Willamette (10 min from end)&#xA;1/2 oz- UK Fuggle (at turnoff)&#xA;1/2 oz- US Willamette  (at turnoff)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T00:12:41.903" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T00:12:41.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1063" CreationDate="2010-01-04T21:43:16.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a freezer on craigslist. Find one cheap. 50-300 bucks depending on size, the deal, and condition. I see them for 100-150$ for the huge ones all the time. I have a 20 cu ft stand up. It's the biggest one you can get. Buy a temp controller online, a brewshop, or at a beverage supply place (~50-60$), and set it to desired temp. I use 55º, that's a good starting point. But anywhere between 45-60 should be fine for most styles for storing/aging/serving. The freezer is better then the fridge for many reasons I won't get into at this moment. But the best reason is that it won't be running all the time like a fridge will, which saves your electricity bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup was about 200$, and I have over 200 bottles in it. The shelving didn't make sense for bottle heights, so I put them in the boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://qkpic.com/03ac5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;alt text http://qkpic.com/03ac5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-01-04T23:26:02.697" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T23:26:02.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1031" CreationDate="2010-01-04T21:43:26.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in an apt an always brew right on my stove.  Be careful not to boil over or your kitchen may get trashed (then again this is kind of a brewing right-of-passage)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are on electric it may take a long time to get boiling so you might consider steeping and boiling with less water and topping it off when you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T21:43:26.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1063" CreationDate="2010-01-04T22:45:28.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went on Craigslist and bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vinotemp.com/View.aspx/2816/400E-Model-Economy-Wine-Cabinet-%283-Bottles-Deep%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vinotemp&lt;/a&gt; wine cabinet. It is supposed to hold around 400 bottles of wine. I'm not positive but I think it was about $500 used. The whole setup was meant to store wine on its side obviously, and this is not optimal for beer. I went to the container store and bought some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.containerstore.com/shop/elfa/components/ventilatedShelving?productId=10006045&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ventilated shelving&lt;/a&gt;. It's the kind of stuff you would expect to find in a pantry. I cut it down with a bolt cutter to the right width and set it on the already existing wood rails. I did also buy a 3/4&quot;x3/4&quot; stick of wood from Home Depot to make little rail extensions for the front by the door to better support the shelves. This is obviously not a cheap solution, but I will say that I am very happy with it, and it has worked fantastic so far. I also have not noticed an increase in my electricity bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://twitpic.com/show/thumb/np3ly.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;alt text http://twitpic.com/show/thumb/np3ly.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-01-04T22:45:28.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1031" CreationDate="2010-01-05T01:05:20.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always have brewed right on my kitchen stove. My current stove is electric and takes forever to get a boil going, but it works. Currently it is my only option. There is no way I could see doing a full boil on my stove. I am looking into getting a gas burner for outside. I would also say that I would rather be brewing outside if its nice out, and if not I can always fall back on the kitchen. I don't really think that there is a &quot;best&quot; place, but instead wherever you are most comfortable brewing. Try it inside on the stove and if that doesn't work, go buy a burner and try doing it outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-01-05T01:05:20.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1060" CreationDate="2010-01-05T12:56:09.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you factor in the loss of alpha acid over time you should be fine.  A reputable supplier may even help you with the estimate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend that you plan to use them relatively quickly if you want to get the most out of them.  So think of your next 3-4 brew sessions and work with those hops.  I'd invest in a vacuum sealer yourself, to weigh and repackage these hops you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-05T12:56:09.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="907" CreationDate="2010-01-05T13:00:37.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That smell is mostly form pedicoccus.  Its a bacteria that work aerobically and it has a vomit like smell.  Lacto is anaerobic and has a fairly clean aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When doing sourmashes (leaving the mash for a few days at ~110-120F) there will often be a layer of nasty smelling malt on the top that can be scooped out.  The mash underneath is soured and very &quot;clean&quot; tasting aside from the sour lactic acid taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-05T13:00:37.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1079" CreationDate="2010-01-05T13:35:48.013" Score="5" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is First Wort Hopping (FWH) and how best can it be replicated in extract brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-05T14:22:07.867" Title="First Wort Hopping (or FWH)" Tags="|hops|bittering|wort|boil|bitterness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1078" CreationDate="2010-01-05T14:22:07.867" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/First%5Fwort%5Fhopping&quot;&gt;First wort hopping&lt;/a&gt; is the practice of adding hops to kettle when you take first runnings from the mash tun.  As the kettle fills you heat the wort to boiling.  The &quot;boil hops&quot; are in the kettle before the boil begins and steep in the warm wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to carry this over to extract brewing would be to add your first hops to the kettle when the wort reaches 150º-170ºF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-05T14:22:07.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1128" CreationDate="2010-01-05T16:21:15.470" Score="8" ViewCount="2438" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dose anyone have any experience brewing Gosebier?  Its a german wheat style of beer that is flavored with some salt (and citrus I believe).  I had one at the Golden City Brewery in Denver a couple years back and loved it.  But I need a little more research before trying to replicate one myself.  This is one of those quietly unheard of beer styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone? Anyone?&#xA;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-02-10T17:12:55.757" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T02:55:51.400" Title="Gosebier- a unique style" Tags="|recipe|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2659" CreationDate="2010-01-05T16:42:38.570" Score="4" ViewCount="1627" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the real difference between a whirlpool hop addition and a flameout hop addition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The practice of whirlpooling is more of a pro-equipment setup type of technique, but I have seen and heard pro-brewers mentioning both additions in the same breath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference must be within the way they use their equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main point for confusion to me is that a whirlpool hop addition happens during the whirlpool but before the chill.  Isn't that the same as a flameout addition????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless, the whirlpool is happening post chill; then you could see it more as a dryhop (pre-ferment) addition.  But when you think about how the equipment works, a whirlpool tank post chill doesn't seem realistic because post chill you want that wort in the fermentor and with the yeast ASAP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have an answer to that conundrum???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T12:19:33.470" Title="Whirlpool hop additions" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|chilling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2010-01-05T17:10:57.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't heard of it until now, but here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/6jZa75&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;google translated netherlands wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.germanbeerguide.co.uk/gose.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a longer page&lt;/a&gt; about the history of the style and one person's quest to find it as well as some tasting notes that may be of help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-01-05T17:10:57.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2010-01-05T19:35:59.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scribd.com/doc/14597768/The-Oredigger-Issue-03-September-17-2007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;review of that beer&lt;/a&gt; in a newspaper. It's on page 10. If nothing else it might help you get to the same taste and look of the beer you had tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-01-05T19:35:59.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2010-01-05T20:22:05.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have left my brewing spoon in the hot wort at flameout.  Then as the chill progresses I can stir it around abit to get the cold wort away from the chiller and the hot wort in contact with the chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also picked up the chiller by the cold inlet tube and swirled the whole thing around a few times.  That seems to work well too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you can manually move the wort around a bit if you don't have a pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 50' 1/2&quot; copper IC, FWIW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an older 25' 3/8&quot; copper IC, that I use as a prechiller in the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-05T20:22:05.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1089" CreationDate="2010-01-05T20:56:23.627" Score="4" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;The debate rages on so I thought I'd ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think black patent (black barley) belongs in Stout?  Or is stout better made with just roasted barely and chocolate malts, while BP is best reserved for Porter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am of the camp that if it tastes good do what you like.&#xA;I make a really nice Oatmeal Stout, that uses primarily roasted barley.  But I find that I like just about 2oz of BP in there for and added level of roasted depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-05T23:36:23.397" Title="Black Patent and stout" Tags="|stout|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1081" CreationDate="2010-01-05T21:22:52.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're probably the same type of addition in practice.  The point of a whirlpool is to pile up trub in the boil kettle and isn't generally used post-chill. Perhaps whirlpool hops are added once the whirlpool is ramped up and flameout additions go in when the heat is cut.  Doubt there is much difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-05T21:22:52.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-05T22:30:23.670" Score="16" ViewCount="12006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always thought it to be common knowledge that wet yeast is better than dry yeast for home-brewing.  This was confirmed by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPOewnwgO0Q&quot;&gt;Sam Calagione at his Authors at Google&lt;/a&gt; talk where he suggested that using wet yeast is the single best way for the beginning home-brewer to improve their beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently a retail home-brew store employee told me that this &quot;myth&quot; has been debunked and that dry yeast is better because it doesn't require a starter for high gravity beers.  Is there any truth to this?  Do any serious home-brewers out there prefer dry yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T20:25:38.663" Title="Dry yeast vs wet yeast" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1087" CreationDate="2010-01-05T23:10:25.527" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used dry yeast in a long time, except when a batch needed an extra boost mid-fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also don't use a starter for my liquid yeast, even when I'm doing a high gravity brew. It generally seems to work out just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-01-05T23:10:25.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2010-01-05T23:36:23.397" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about &quot;official style guidelines&quot;, but I made a double chocolate stout with an exorbitant amount of black patent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly the roasted flavor meets the chocolate very well, making it an unconventionally unsweet chocolate stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+1 for going with what you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2010-01-05T23:36:23.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="930" CreationDate="2010-01-06T04:07:22.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to drunk-monkey's brew club, I've done this. I used a fairly usual (in-style) porter recipe and &quot;dry hopped&quot; with bacon bits. I didn't use BacOs as they're soy and I'm completely against the idea, but the sort in the grocery aisle marked &quot;real bacon bits.&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001FSISY6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;) The only worry I had was the salt content, but it didn't seem to matter very much. The beer came out very well and has been a talking point of my local brewers for quite some time. I would venture to say I used about 16oz of the stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T04:07:22.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1087" CreationDate="2010-01-06T04:19:58.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's fairly obvious that if you want control and more defining characteristics in your beer, you're going to need to use attributes of the yeast profiles that the various liquid yeasts provide. I do always keep dry yeast around just in case something goes wrong on brew day, but I try not to use it otherwise. As for starters, the smack pack Wyeast packs seem to do okay without additional starters so I tend to use those. Is a starter for a huge beer that big a deal to make sure everything goes right? I think cost is probably the single biggest argument against using liquid packs, and that means reusing yeast. There's a spot that's probably more time consuming and space hogging than just using starters for your big beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another note, if you want a benefit from a specific dry yeast, Munton's makes a dry yeast that gels at the bottom of the fermenter. It's possibly the last dry yeast I've used and I was extremely impressed by it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://new.midwestsupplies.com/munton-s-premium-gold-yeast-6-grams.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Munton's Gold&quot;&gt;$2.35 from Midwest Supplies&lt;/a&gt; (Of which I'm not affiliated. That's just where I purchased the stuff.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T04:19:58.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1094" CreationDate="2010-01-06T06:29:52.917" Score="2" ViewCount="2737" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I've noticed a slight salty taste in a few beers. It's generally toward the end of the glass, and it's generally when I'm dehydrated. It's happened with Long Trail Ale and Stone Arrogant Bastard, both in the past two weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I guess this is a multiple choice question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A) The beer actually has salty flavoring, and I don't taste it until the beer is a bit warmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B) My friends are dicks and threw salt in my beer when I went to the bathroom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C) I'm super dehydrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T00:04:47.573" Title="Salty flavor in beer?" Tags="|additives|flavor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2010-01-06T12:52:00.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got the Blichmann Therminator.  It chills my wort from boiling to 68 using 58F water in 40 seconds.  It'll chill down to 61F in less than 3 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use about a 1/12 the amount of water I use to to chill with my old immersion chiller.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T12:52:00.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1092" CreationDate="2010-01-06T13:17:15.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't noticed a salty flavor in either of those two beers before (or, except for a few rarities, in beer in general). Also, you're the only one who can answer C for us, how dehydrated are you? Why not just get some Gatorade? Why not make Gatorale with electrolytes, fruit flavor, and a shit ton of hops? Actually, don't do that. Patent pending on that idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I vote for the friends are dicks idea. The real insidiousness of this plan is that instead of just messing up a few beers for you they're making you question this saltiness outside of drinking hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gatorale - Is it in you?...Not for long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T13:17:15.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1087" CreationDate="2010-01-06T13:24:55.910" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry yeast is be far easier for the newer brewer to &lt;strong&gt;USE&lt;/strong&gt;, which to a shop owner would make it better.  Mainly because for shop owners the easier it is for someone to make decent beer, the more likely that customer is to return to the shop. But once you get some experience the switch to liquid yeast is the way to go for healthy yeast and variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to Sam's comment, I think he is incorrect.  You can indeed make great great beer with dry yeast, you can improve your beer beyond that with liquid yeast.  But the single greatest place to invest yourself for better beer is in temperature control of the ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer fermented at 68F-70F with dry yeast will always be better than the same style and strain of liquid yeast fermented at 80F.  Or even a ferment that starts at 68F creeps up to 75F then falls again.  Temp control and stabilty has big effects on yeast performance.&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Fermentation management is the single biggest key to making great beer, IMO.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-01-06T13:47:08.590" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T13:47:08.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1092" CreationDate="2010-01-06T13:29:56.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, there are salt ions in all beers.  It is possible that as your palatte fatigues you are just more sensitive to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are, however, other flavors in beer that could be interpreted as salty, but are something else.  Particularly the hop profiles of the beers, perhaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that you need more experimentation.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Today: Drink 4 glasses of water during the day, then drink 4 long trails at night and see if they seem salty.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tomorrow: Don't drink the water, wear four sweaters and walk around the house a lot.  Then drink the 4 long trails at night and report back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T00:04:47.573" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T00:04:47.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1046" CreationDate="2010-01-06T13:33:31.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I store all my specialty grains in plastic screwtop jars and it seems to work well.&#xA;Roasted malts and caramelized malts last longer than things like carapils, munich, vienna etc ect.&#xA;I have had amount of roasted malt hang around for close to 2 years and they are doing great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T13:33:31.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1042" CreationDate="2010-01-06T13:54:49.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the extent of the boil over you'll lose gravity point or two of OG in the final wort, but it's not a significant concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydrometers break for a lot of people.  I know a few brewing buddies who keep two around just so that when one breaks they have a backup.  I wouldn't suggest running out and getting two.  But next time you are just &quot;browsing&quot; in the homebrew shop and you just want to buy something to make the trip wortwhile... pick up a second hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T00:03:11.663" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T00:03:11.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1104" CreationDate="2010-01-06T17:14:54.900" Score="7" ViewCount="6091" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in my last beer, I added bourbon infused with vanilla bean. I started to wonder if this was &quot;cheating&quot; or frowned upon, as far as getting the bourbon flavor into the beer. Is there a better way to do it, or a correct way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2010-01-06T17:29:24.160" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T18:42:14.527" Title="Adding Bourbon flavor to a beer" Tags="|additives|bourbon|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1099" CreationDate="2010-01-06T17:23:33.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I don't think it's cheating. I think adding bourbon to beer sounds delicious!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it would help to break down what you want in a &quot;bourbon&quot; flavor. For my Scotch Ale, I wanted something smokey and peaty and oaky. So I used smoked malt and peated malt, and oak chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a barrel that was used for bourbon would work pretty well too.. Though that's difficult at the 5 gal range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T17:23:33.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-06T17:23:34.643" Score="4" ViewCount="3917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make an IPA that is very bubbly and dry like a champagne. I'm assuming to get it really bubbly I would just bottle with champagne yeast, but to achieve the dryness would I also ferment with it? When you bottle with champagne yeast, do they need to be corked or can I still just cap them? Are there any special tricks when using champagne yeast, or special considerations to be made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-01-09T03:30:17.847" Title="Using champagne yeast" Tags="|yeast|bottling|fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1101" CreationDate="2010-01-06T17:32:47.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend using champagne yeast in beer.  It will dry it out completely and will not taste very good.  I'm talking a finally gravity of 0.99.  Yuck.  It will also scrub a lot of the flavor from the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did want to do it you would need champagne bottles, corks, a corker, and wire cages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you could add a tiny bit more sugar to your bottles, but I would reccomend against it.  Bottle bombs aren't just messy, they could seriously injure you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastEditorUserId="368" LastEditDate="2010-01-06T17:38:30.910" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T17:38:30.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1101" CreationDate="2010-01-06T17:34:20.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;WLP007 - English Dry Ale - is a pretty clean tasting dry yeast that can handle big batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T17:34:20.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1099" CreationDate="2010-01-06T17:36:48.860" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jordan,&#xA;Whichever way you want to flavor a beer is fantastic!  That’s part of the fun with brewing.  Unless you are concerned about following the Reinheitsgebot, don’t worry about adjunct materials.  I really like the way you decided to flavor your beer.  If you’re looking for further suggestions, try finding wood chips soaking them in your favorite bourbon, than throw the wood chips in a nylon sock.  Tie up the top and place it in your beer during the conditioning stage.  The flavor comes through nicely in the final product.  If you can find some wood from an old bourbon barrel this technique works well.  Just make sure you sterilize all surfaces that will come in contact with your beer by washing it with an alkaline based cleaner or under water that is at least 160 degrees Fahrenheit (71 Celsius).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-Adam-  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="372" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T17:36:48.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1099" CreationDate="2010-01-06T18:10:43.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's any wrong way to add bourbon flavor to your beer other than adding something that hasn't been sanitized properly ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jack Daniels sells wood chips made from their old barrels for smoking on the grill but I don't see any reason why you couldn't use them to add some oak and bourbon* flavor to your brew, just be sure to sanitize them properly first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*technically Jack Daniel's isn't bourbon since it is not made in Kentucky; but as far as ingredients and flavor are concerned, it is basically bourbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T18:10:43.010" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1101" CreationDate="2010-01-06T18:15:21.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Champagne yeast produces neutral flavors, so it can be useful in bottle conditioning barleywines and other strong ales that have spent months in the fermenter (generally added a few days before bottling), but not good for creating an entire batch in terms of flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer dry ale yeast, I'd recommend Danstar's Nottingham ale yeast.  Very high attenuation, should help you get down to your desired gravity.  Flavor can be a little tart, but if the grain bill and hopping rates are high enough I think you can get the results you're looking for. (and I recommend using at least 2 packets per 5 gallon batch)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Controlling carbonation can very hard using priming sugar.  I've had batches where I used too much sugar and ended up with bottles that gushed until completely empty--and there was no cure for it once they were bottled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you REALLY want to have tight control over your carbonation levels, you could move on to kegging and force carbing.  Force carbing allows you total control over the carbonation levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="markskar" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T18:15:21.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1099" CreationDate="2010-01-06T18:42:14.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like I have said before, its the taste that matters in the end to me.  Not some sort of right or wring way to get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make a winter ale with oak ships soaked in burbon.  To which I add my cinnamon and nutmeg as well.  Let it sit for a few days then put it all in secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You method sounds great to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T18:42:14.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1101" CreationDate="2010-01-06T18:46:37.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that part of your IPAs flavor depends on the fermentation character you get from the yeast.  Even if your using a clean american ale yeast.  Its still has a character different that champagne yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, champagne yeast will have a hard time actually with some of the maltose type sugars I think.  So while you'll get fermentation, champagne yeast has really been bred/selected to work on simple grape sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, getting something really bubbly in the bottle is somewhat tough.  If you want it to be as bubbly as champagne you'll need champagne or at least Belgian style bottles.  Normal beer bottles can't handle that much pressure safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T18:46:37.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1042" CreationDate="2010-01-06T18:57:32.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my first few batches I quickly learned that &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; doesn't go exactly right in almost every batch. Should be fine unless you have reason to believe you may have poisoned the beer.  In my few short years homebrewing, I have yet to toss a batch or make one that is totally undrinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've learned two important lessons. 1. Be careful with your hydrometer unless you want to waste your beer money on more hydrometers.  2. Know your burner, control your heat!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many more lessons to learn... in the meantime relax and have a homebrew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T18:57:32.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2010-01-06T19:29:10.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this today...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopwild.com/2009/08/21/allday-beer-gose-recipe/comment-page-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hopwild.com/2009/08/21/allday-beer-gose-recipe/comment-page-1/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="420" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T19:29:10.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1122" CreationDate="2010-01-06T20:26:15.077" Score="4" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to use cocoa nibs?&#xA;Do you crush them, crack them leave them whole?&#xA;Steep and remove pre-boil, leave in boil, add at flameout?&#xA;Add them only during secondary?  How long?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-10T23:37:01.303" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T12:27:03.070" Title="Cocoa Nibs for Chocolate Flavorings" Tags="|flavor|additives|steeping|boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1050" CreationDate="2010-01-06T20:31:17.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think its important to point out the differences between steeping and mini/partial mashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can steep cara-pils, but keep it to less than 5% of the grain bill as you'll probably add too much uncoverted starch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you really mean mash the carapils, then you can go whole hog and use what ever % you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-06T20:31:17.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-07T05:27:57.513" Score="4" ViewCount="2058" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever seen 8oz bottles anywhere?  I was asked if I could bottle a batch of homebrew in smaller bottles so it could be given out as gifts to more people.  I can't seem to find anything smaller than 12oz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="366" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:46:40.017" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T16:30:21.823" Title="Bottle Sizes Smaller than 12 Ounces?" Tags="|equipment|bottling|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1115" CreationDate="2010-01-07T12:52:42.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found some 6oz bottles are Seven Bridges Ograninc Brewing in Santa Cruz, Ca.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.breworganic.com/browseproducts/6-oz.-Mini-Champagne-Bottles--Case-of-24.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;6 Fl. 0z. Bottles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-07T12:52:42.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-07T13:22:46.567" Score="23" ViewCount="24746" Body="&lt;p&gt;What different methods do people use to maintain or control fermentation temps?  This includes maintaining temps for both Ales and Lagers.  For most climates, active control is necessary for doing lagers.  However, I have seen multiple neat tricks people use for maintaining ale temps outside of ambient temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also includes not just keeping your beer cooler when its warm out, but also warm enough when its cool out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post your methods and discussions here as this is a community wiki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T19:27:32.153" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T11:43:36.810" Title="Fermentation Temperature Control Methods" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|yeast|" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-07T13:22:46.567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2010-01-07T13:28:33.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most straighforward method of performing temperature control is with a fridge and a thermostat controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used a standing fridge in the past relying on a Johnson Controller to maintain 68F temps.  I currently use a chest freezer with the same controller.&#xA;I have found that the chest freezer holds temperature better and doesn't need to cycle on and off as much as the fridge did.  That is especially true in the summer when my garage, where I brew, is in the 90s at times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to use a towel and duct tape to hold the probe against the side of my glass carboys.  The towel folded over a few times helps to insulate the probe from the chest freezer ambiant air, and the controller is more reacting to the temp flux in the carboy.&#xA;I'd probably graduate to ta thermowell at somepoint, but it requires a small monetary investment.  I'll go that route when the current probe and controller finally burn out.  Don't fix what isn't broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-07T13:28:33.357" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-07T13:28:33.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2010-01-07T14:44:42.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/861/temperature-control-for-fermentation/865#865&quot;&gt;this discussion&lt;/a&gt;. And the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Primary_Fermentation#Fermentation_Temperature_Control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HomebrewTalk wiki&lt;/a&gt; page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Controlling fermentation temperature is one of the best things you can do to make good beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most basic ways to keep your brew cool is the swamp cooler method.  Put the carboy in a tub of water and throw a towel over it.  If you keep a close eye on the temperature you can keep it in a good range with ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wet t-shirt and swamp cooler method is probably insufficient for temperatures in the mid 90's.  The temperatures in East Texas get stupid-hot eight months out of the year.  Last year I built myself a duck-in cooler powered by a small window air conditioner.  I can get the temperatures down to the mid-sixties, and probably further if I take apart the AC's thermostat.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://midnighthourbrewery.blogspot.com/search/label/cooler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;my blog&lt;/a&gt; for details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fellow brewer recently donated a chest freezer to me and I had a Johnson Controls &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?products_id=1214&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;external thermostat&lt;/a&gt;.  This combination is ideal for fermenting because the freezer fits a few carboys and the thermostat keeps the temperature within 3&amp;deg; F of your target.  I made my first (real) lager, a CAP, in the freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a &lt;a href=&quot;http://basicbrewingshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=2&amp;amp;products_id=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Low Tech Lagering DVD&lt;/a&gt;.  I have not seen it yet, but I trust that James over at Basic Brewing Radio knows what he's talking about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T12:01:45.167" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-07T14:44:42.453" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2010-01-07T15:08:24.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Living in Wisconsin I have the problem of keeping things warmer than the ambient temperature most of the year; especially since I'm a cheap bastard and keep it effing cold in my house during the winter. It's in the 40 degree range in my basement during the winter which is perfect for (or possibly too cold for some) lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopwild.com/2009/03/10/temperature-controlled-fermentation-less-than-50-dollar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this method&lt;/a&gt; for keeping things warm without having to purchase an expensive temperature controller (remember I'm a cheap bastard). I haven't tried it yet, but it seems like a sound idea and I'm definitely going to be giving it a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-01-07T15:08:24.540" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-07T15:08:24.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1092" CreationDate="2010-01-07T15:20:09.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect option B) as the likely explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-07T15:20:09.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1112" CreationDate="2010-01-07T16:34:13.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that using them just like a dry hop works well. Throw them in to secondary and you should be able to rack your beer out without picking up any nibs. *&lt;em&gt;(I have heard of people calling it dry nibbing)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastActivityDate="2010-01-07T16:34:13.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1115" CreationDate="2010-01-07T16:36:41.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a beer call Little Kings (cream ale) that comes in a 7oz green bottle in an 8 pack. I have never had it before but thought of making a purchase for the same reason. Little sample bottle would be nice. A number of manufacturers offer 11.2 oz bottles but I doubt that helps based on what your looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastEditorUserId="403" LastEditDate="2010-01-07T18:53:14.490" LastActivityDate="2010-01-07T18:53:14.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1125" CreationDate="2010-01-07T17:19:01.897" Score="7" ViewCount="1535" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some of the best methods you've used for shipping beer (for trade, competition, gifts, whatever)? What are some packing materials / resources that are inexpensive but reliable? How many beers can you confidently put in one box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-01-22T14:42:12.900" Title="Shipping beer cheaply" Tags="|shipping|packaging|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1124" CreationDate="2010-01-07T17:40:47.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not shipped beer anywhere yet, but I was planning on ordering some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uline.com/bl%5F5450/Styrofoam-Wine-Shippers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;styrofoam shippers&lt;/a&gt;, and there are also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uline.com/bl%5F5451/Bulk-Pack-Pulp-Wine-Shippers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pulp shippers&lt;/a&gt; which are a bit cheaper. It seems like a little extra overhead in cost, but I figure it makes more sense to pack everything safely as possible. They are made for wine but I figured i could just fill any voids with tissue paper or newspaper. It is also nice that they offer different sizes anywhere from 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, or 12. Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realbeer.com/library/beerbreak/archives/beerbreak20011108.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;good article&lt;/a&gt;, talking about some of the legalities and things to think about when shipping beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-01-07T17:40:47.880" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1124" CreationDate="2010-01-07T18:00:02.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was a member of a beer of the month club for a short while once.&#xA;They shipped the beer in those styrofoam shippers that Jordan mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like them and the beer always got to me in fine shape.  I saved mine to use for shipping in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also shipped beer with loads of bubble wrap and ziplock bags.  Filled the rest of the box with newspaper.  Works good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beers per box is only limited by the box size.  But I try to keep it to less than 6 120z per box for weight reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-01-07T20:31:55.370" LastActivityDate="2010-01-07T20:31:55.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1124" CreationDate="2010-01-08T00:09:10.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ship beer all the time and just use FedEx.  I just wrap each bottle individually with bubble wrap (going around maybe 2-3 times) then place them in a box filled with packing Styrofoam or newspaper in a way so that none of the beers are touching each other or the box.  Haven't hand any issues yet and I've shipped anywhere from a few bombers to 12 beers using this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also not illegal to ship beer using FedEx or UPS, just against their shipping policy.  Just pre-print your label and drop it off at the FedEx store and they won't ask any questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="335" LastActivityDate="2010-01-08T00:09:10.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2010-01-08T00:45:59.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this good descriptor at &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/style/16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerAdvocate Gose&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than inocculating with Lactobacillus this descriptor mentions the addition of lactic acid directly to the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only semi-commercial source for this that I have found was the one I had in Denver, but BA also lists several examples at the link above including one from Dog Fish Head....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dogfish.com/brews-spirits/the-brews/brewpub-exclusives/goser-the-gosarian.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DFH Goser the Gosarian&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Luckily it was last produced during august of 2009, but it was only available at the brewpub in Rehoboth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far then its salt, corriander, 50-60% wheat malt.  The perhaps there is some lactic acid, and I'd assume some german ale yeast.  DFH mentions the use of flaked oats too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 4/15/2011  I am still very interested in making a good Gose.  BYO magazine just did a nice article on the style with a couple good recipes to start with.  I might have to go with that as a meaningful starting point.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-04-15T21:34:44.160" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T21:34:44.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1050" CreationDate="2010-01-08T02:20:03.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can steep it or use dextrin (same thing).  It's the other white powder.  Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Mcat" LastActivityDate="2010-01-08T02:20:03.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2010-01-08T13:33:10.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to avoid adding the alcohol flavorings from bourbon or whiskey, I would jsut steam them for 10 minutes.  Get a good rolling boil going with a steamer in the pot, toss in the chips and once the steam refills the pot I'd take them off the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hot steam with still sanitize, while the slow reduction in heat will help minimize the tannin issues that can come with outright boiling the chips for too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 1/19/10&#xA;Rethinking it now, soaking in vodka, then adding the chips only would be a pretty neutral way to add oak without too much contribution from the sanitizing liquor (like bourbon etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-01-19T13:31:38.290" LastActivityDate="2010-01-19T13:31:38.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1134" CreationDate="2010-01-08T13:37:46.000" Score="8" ViewCount="7980" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best method for preparing different fruits for fruit additions into secondary fermentors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are issues of sanitation and good fruit to wort contact, via chopping, slicing, mincing or puree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-02T13:23:50.113" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T03:30:40.017" Title="preparing fruit for secondary" Tags="|fruit|secondary|fermenter|sanitation|flavor|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1131" CreationDate="2010-01-08T13:44:21.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chop it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freeze it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let warm up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add to secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are issues with natural yeast and bateria in the fruit.  Freezing it will kill most of these.  The low pH of the beer, and alchohol will help to prevent the rest from taking a hold in the beer.  Make sure to account for the extra water the fruit will add.  With large fruit like pears I cut it in strips, stick it in a bag and freeze it. With berries I freeze them, then run them though a food processer.  The freezing will also break up the cell walls of the fruit allowing you to extract more flavor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2010-01-08T13:44:21.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1124" CreationDate="2010-01-08T13:46:59.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prepackage it at home, when they ask the contents I say non-perisable food items.  I reuse boxes that ingredients were shipped to me in, and reuse the packaging.  Shipping charges based on weight are killer though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2010-01-08T13:46:59.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1131" CreationDate="2010-01-08T13:49:57.557" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever possible I like to use Oregon Fruit Purees.  These purees come in large cans that have been flash pasturized already. The fruit is also in a puree format so there is not additional prep and fruit to wort contact is superior to slicing and dicing the fruit.&#xA;Also for seeded fruits like strawberries and blueberries, much of the seed material has been removed which makes for a cleaner fermentor with less stuff to settle out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oregonfruit.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oregon Fruit Purees&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I can't find a puree that I am looking for I'll sanitize fruit at home myself with mild heat.  If you boil fruit you stand the chance of release a significant amount of pectin from the fruit which can lead to excess haze.  Not a big deal with certain styles, but if you want to make a clean and clear american wheat style fruit beer the haze can be annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My process is to usually macerate my washed fruit with a little DME, maybe 1:10th of the total weight of the fruit to be added.  I'll slowly add heat to the mixture until it gets to ~165F stirring as it heats up.  Holding that temp for 15minutes has done a great job of eliminating any noticable bacterial or wild yeast contaminations in the beer in secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, to help battle any pectin that is released I use Pectic Enzyme or pectinase.  This is an enzyme the digests the pectin that does get into solution, thereby preventing the haze caused by pectin.  Pectic Enzyme is available at most homebrewshops and certainly findable on-line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-08T13:49:57.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1131" CreationDate="2010-01-08T14:29:54.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Does_freezing_food_kill_unwanted_bacteria&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Does_freezing_food_kill_unwanted_bacteria&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freezing doesn't kill the bacteria. It will kill &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of it, but not all. However, if you're adding it to the secondary, that's about as good as you're going to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just made a Pomegranate Tripel, and added the poms in JUST after the boil. If you boil the fruit too many pectins come out, but just afterward and the water will still be hot enough to clean the fruit off. Came out real strong, and the sweet/bitterness of the poms offset the MASSIVE spike in ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastActivityDate="2010-01-08T14:29:54.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1092" CreationDate="2010-01-08T14:37:00.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's also possible your water has become saltier, and is leaving a residue in the glass!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastActivityDate="2010-01-08T14:37:00.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1087" CreationDate="2010-01-08T15:11:59.990" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its best not to think of this as &quot;dry yeast versus liquid&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry yeasts are actually each the same yeast strain as a particular liquid strain, simply dehydrated and preserved in a safe manner. For example, the famous &quot;Chico&quot; yeast strain (WLP 001 for White Labs, 1056 for Wyeast) is exactly the same yeast as the dry Safale US-05. So if your recipe calls for WLP001 or 1056, you can use US-05 dry without any difference at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The only caveat is that over or under pitching can affect flavor)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason you should use liquid strains is if you are wanting a particular strain of yeast that has not been converted to a dry variety yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't list all the dry equivalent yeasts here, but here's a page with some info:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Dry_yeast&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Dry_yeast&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&quot;Chico&quot; strain is US-05, &quot;Whitebread&quot; strain is S-04, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, if I want a neutral yeast that ferments clean and well, then I use US-05 and I know that there are a lot of commercial operations that use it too. Any ale thats &quot;American&quot; in flavor (big IPA's, etc) can use US-05. I also use S-04 for my &quot;English&quot; style beers. S-04 leaves the beer a lad estery, which is good for a lot of English styles. So I'd use dry yeast for IPAs, stouts, porters, browns, pale ales, ESBs, bitters, milds, etc. Basically any beer where the yeast flavor is not noticeable, or has just a slight English twang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would NOT use dry yeast for any beer where the yeast is the primary flavor. This includes hefeweizens, Belgians, sour beers, or German ales in general. There are some specialty dry strains that some have used to make German wheat beers and Belgians, but I personally have had poor luck with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So look at dry yeast simply as a collection of a few good yeast strains and use them if the beer you are making fits one of those clean strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: The dry German lager yeast, Saflager W-34/70, has become a new favorite of mine. I've also used the less available S-189 dry lager yeast as well. So you CAN do lagers with dry yeast now! And it performs very, very well. Just use 2 packets to get the proper pitching rate for a lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T19:29:19.613" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T19:29:19.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-08T17:25:11.333" Score="2" ViewCount="599" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation Help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have need some thoughts on what I should do with this batch of beer. I am brewing a clone kit which is called Belgium Wit. The directions were a little off based on the equipment kit I had purchased, so I had to improvise.  To begin, I put the wort into a fermenting bucket ad sprinkled the dry yeast on top. The original thought was that it would be a 2 step fermentation process, as after a week, the plan was to transfer to a plastic carboy for another week, and then bottle.  (2 weeks fermentation total.)  Well, being a real newbie, I didn’t realize the bucket was supposed to have a lid and airlock. (Mine didn’t come with one so I had just covered my bucket with a towel so dust particles wouldn’t get in.)  So after about 14 hours there was a little bubbling that had taken place, but nothing like everyone describes. (Obviously) That’s when I realized I needed  the lid and air lock.  So after consulting with someone at a brewing store, they suggested that I siphon it into the carboy and then use the airlock. I did this and then within an hour or two, I noticed the bubbling and “foam” buildup everyone speaks of.  Here is what I need help with. After about 4 days, the bubbling started to decrease. I would say now, after 5 days, the bubbling has pretty much decreased and there is no foam or bubbles on the top. I decided to taste it, and everything seems fine. It tasted like a good, but flat beer, not sugary, but when I did a reading, this is where I got really confused.  The wort before fermentation was at 1.042.  Now, the reading is 1.076.  I thought it was supposed to be lower?  Like in the 1.012 range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before doing the reading, I was inclined to just let it go for the full 2 weeks in same fermenter and then bottle. The reading concerned me though.  Should I add more yeast?  If so, should I first siphon to a new carboy and then add the yeast?  Should I move it to a new carboy, but not add more yeast?  Should I go ahead and bottle? Or should I just leave it alone and continue as originally planned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for all the newbie questions, but any help would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="minza24" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-10T23:35:19.263" LastActivityDate="2010-01-10T23:35:19.263" Title="Fermentation Issues???" Tags="|fermentation|hydrometer|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1138" CreationDate="2010-01-08T18:12:57.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume that you have read the hydrometer incorrectly if it's saying 1.076 and it's a Belgian Wit.  1.042 for an original gravity sounds about right.  I would take a close look again and make sure you know what you are looking at... hydrometers can be confusing for the first-timers, as there are typically more than one scale on them. I'm guessing that your beer is probably mostly fermented just based upon the physical description of the foam falling back into the wort.  You could transfer it and let it condition for another week or so, to play it safe, or if you are able to get a good reading on the gravity and it is around 1.010-1.012 range, you are probably ready to bottle.  Time isn't the important factor here, it's the question of if the yeast have completed their job.  Wit's are intended to be drank young and fresh, so it's not important to age it like if you had a russian imperial stout or barleywine.  Sounds like your beer will be good!  Remember to relax, don't worry, and have a homebrew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastActivityDate="2010-01-08T18:12:57.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1138" CreationDate="2010-01-08T18:19:02.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd leave it be in the carboy as is.  Racking again and again increased your chance of infecting it with wild microbes.  Let it continue for another week and check the reading again.  Bubbling in teh airlock is never a good indication of whether something is done or not.  Its all about the hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd put your hydrometer in some water and just look at the reading you got.  Be sure you are reading it correctly.  It should be close to 1.001.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did your initial reading while the wort was hot that would have screwed up your reading too.  So be sure that when you take a hydrometer reading you are using wort in the 60-70F range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-08T18:19:02.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2010-01-08T18:30:14.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no way that historically Gosebier used lactic acid.  It most definitely was a lactobacillus thing.  If you want to learn more about Gosebier, talk to Jeff at Golden City... he's a nice guy and has read up on the history and he's tried a few different methods, I'm sure he'd be willing to share. It's generally made with coriander(the citrusy flavor) and salt. Radical Brewing by Randy Mosher is where Jeff first learned of it I believe.  There is a commercially produced one that you see from time to time here from Germany, but I kinda prefer Golden City's.  Also, as of the last two years, Gose is now an official style at the GABF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastEditorUserId="351" LastEditDate="2010-01-08T18:36:33.393" LastActivityDate="2010-01-08T18:36:33.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2010-01-08T20:12:17.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=68606&amp;amp;hl=gose&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=68606&amp;amp;hl=gose&lt;/a&gt;  There's a link which contains Randy Moshers recipe for the Gose in Radical Brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastActivityDate="2010-01-08T20:12:17.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2010-01-09T02:36:23.273" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most consistent results, a spare fridge or chest freeze and a Johnson control is the best setup.  No need for a Stopper Thermowell, just tape the temperature probe to the outside of carboy, and cover the probe with a scrap piece of styrofoam and tape -- that way, you ensure you are getting the temperature of the wort rather than the ambient fridge temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To cool, just plug the fridge/freeze into the Johnson controller (set on cooling setting), with a 2 degree variance.  Keep in mind that the recommended fermentation temperatures written on the side of the yeast bottle are mostly wrong -- consult with Brewing Classic Styles for a good indication of the fermentation temperature for a particular style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were doing a classic German Pilsener, you might start your fermentation temperature at 50F for the first 10 days of fermentation, then bump it up to 60F to drive off diacetyl, then slowly reduce the temp over a period of several days down to a lagering temperature of 36F for 30 days.  Then bottle (with priming sugar), or keg.  I will often drop the temp on ales as well to 36F for several days before bottling, as it aids in clearing the beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To heat, you can use a number of different heating sources.  I use a dehydrator bottom, but others use a low wattage space heater, a heating pad, a Brew Belt, an Electric Fermentation Heater wrap, or even a low-wattage light bulb.  Be cautious when choosing a heating source to avoid fire and appliance warping.  Both Northernbrewer.com and Morebeer.com have a variety of heating sources.  Again, using the Johnson controller, just plug your heating source into the controller (set on the heating setting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, because you are maintaining the optimum fermentation temperature, you are also likely to generate lots of blowoff during the first couple of days of fermentation.  I recommend that you use a large blowoff tube placed into a milk jug of water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://huningtonsachsbrauerei.blogspot.com/2009/01/dsseldorf-domination.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Düsseldorf Domination!&lt;/a&gt; for an example of a fridge/digital controller/blowoff setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="431" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T12:19:07.190" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T12:19:07.190" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-09T02:36:23.273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1101" CreationDate="2010-01-09T03:30:17.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used champagne yeast as a bottling yeast for bigger beers, but would not recommend it, as it moves the character of the beer away from the style you are brewing, and sometimes imparts a weird off taste (had that result with an Alt and a Pilsener).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a very dry IPA, you can bump-up the O.G. with just plain table sugar, or just bump up the temperature 10F after you've fermented for 10 days to tease out that last little bit.  Do not under any circumstances bump the temperature up this far during the first 7 days of fermentation, or you will get a really bad fusel-alcohol tasting beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a big bubbly head, just use more priming sugar.  Based upon experience, you can use as much as 8 ozs. instead of the standard 5 ozs. without getting bottle bombs.  You will get lots of fine bubbles!  No corks needed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="431" LastActivityDate="2010-01-09T03:30:17.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="939" CreationDate="2010-01-09T04:11:41.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two that come to mind. The first is Jamil's Evil Twin, which is available in his book Brewing Classic Styles.  The second one is Fire in the Hole, available in both extract and all-grain versions from Morebeer.com.  I've brewed it, and found it to be very close to Lagunitas' Imperial Red, Pizza Port's Shark Attack, and Pike's Tandem Double -- all delicious Imperial Reds.  The only adjustment I would make to the Fire in the Hole recipe is to delete the oak chips -- it tastes fine, but none of the 3 I mentioned use oak.  See my version and recipe at &lt;a href=&quot;http://huningtonsachsbrauerei.blogspot.com/2009/11/firebreaks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://huningtonsachsbrauerei.blogspot.com/2009/11/firebreaks.html&lt;/a&gt;  It's a mini-mash/extract version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="431" LastActivityDate="2010-01-09T04:11:41.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1153" CreationDate="2010-01-09T14:50:58.357" Score="5" ViewCount="883" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry and liquid extract each have their advantages and draw-backs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the perceived ups and downs for using one or the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-01-09T16:08:07.350" LastActivityDate="2010-01-09T16:08:07.350" Title="Dry vs. Liquid Extract" Tags="|extract|recipe|ingredients|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1149" CreationDate="2010-01-09T14:53:54.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like dry extracts over liquid for thier shelf life and ease of mearurements.&#xA;THe draw back to dry is that the powder is really fine and can make a dusty mess of your counter top and scale during measuring if you are not careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquid extract tends to have a short half life and its more difficult to get it all out of the container it comes in unless you do some rinsing with warm water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do like the &quot;preset&quot; mineral profile you get from the brewer that prepared the extract, and when liquid is really fresh its great stuff.  But finding really fresh extract tha comes out of a bulk container is tough in my neck of the woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-09T14:53:54.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2010-01-09T15:02:26.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Beer-News.org today, (Portland, OR) – Upright Brewing will release two beers at the brewery on Sunday: Upright Gose and Billy the Mountain. Here is the scoop straight from the brewery:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“Bottle Release Party for Billy the Mountain (old ale) and Gose&#xA;1/10/09 1-6pm at the Upright tasting room (@ Leftbank Project, 240 N. Broadway, Portland)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Sunday January 10 we will be releasing our newest limited bottlings including the highly anticipated traditional old ale ‘Billy the Mountain’. It’s batch number one for Upright, being brewed in March and having matured in pinot noir barrels with a special strain of brettanomyces yeast. Only 50 cases will be available and we’ll have the only keg of this Frank Zappa inspired beer on tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We’re also releasing our ‘Gose’ beer. It’s an unusual German-style of wheat beer that is slightly soured and uses coriander and salt. For those interested in learning more check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewpublic.com/oregon-beer/thats-the-way-it-gose/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Angelo’s great post about the style&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The release will be during our normal tasting room hours that day of 1-6 pm. Charcuterie tailored to the two beers will be put out along with some bread to snack on.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastActivityDate="2010-01-09T15:02:26.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1149" CreationDate="2010-01-09T15:20:59.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to use dry extract as my &quot;oh shit I need more sugar&quot; tool, and liquid as my normal extract recipe ingredient. Dry definitely has it's benefits of shelf life, assuming you take care of it. It has to be kept dry. A little moisture and it's pretty much shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your homebrew shop, you might be able to find a better selection of one or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-01-09T15:20:59.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1149" CreationDate="2010-01-09T16:05:49.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Dry Malt Extract&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ups&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stores well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to repackage in a Ziploc&lt;sup&gt;TM&lt;/sup&gt; bag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gives you more points per pound per gallon than liquid (IE: more gravity per weight)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because it's easier to repackage it keeps longer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Downs&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Makes a dusty mess&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Becomes a sticky mess if it gets wet (still usable if you can get it out of the package)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can cause your beer to be darker than expected (see below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Liquid Malt Extract&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ups&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Often cheaper than DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Downs&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Makes a syrupy mess&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Necessary to remove the kettle from heat before adding to avoid scorching&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be difficult to repackage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have to rinse the container to get all the extract. May be a pain when it comes in plastic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can cause your beer to be darker than expected (see below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Note on Wort Darkening&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because many extract brewers do a partial-wort boil the concentration of sugar increases the caramelization process, darkening wort faster.  This applies to both liquid and dry malt extracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-09T16:05:49.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1157" CreationDate="2010-01-09T16:15:17.117" Score="24" ViewCount="2428" Body="&lt;p&gt;The starting position for most new extract brewers is to use a partial boil set up.  Defined as using a pot smaller than the intended batch size, all the ingredients are boiled in a smaller volume.  Then the wort is diluted to the final desired batch size.  (Often the dilution step is used as part of a cooling step)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the Ups and Downs of both Partial vs. Full boils?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="3914" LastEditDate="2017-06-06T10:31:45.800" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T10:31:45.800" Title="Partial vs. Full Volume Wort Boil" Tags="|beer|techniques|boil|wort|bitterness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1131" CreationDate="2010-01-09T21:12:43.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to use fresh fruit you'll need to freeze it and then thaw before using.  Not only does freezing kill of a lot of things you wouldn't want in your beer, it also helps break down the cell walls so it's more easily incorporated.  When to add it is a whole other question and depends on the specific fruit and how much flavor you're looking for.  Some fruits do well added to the secondary (generally those with &quot;extreme&quot; flavors - very mild or very intense) and some do well added right at the end of the boil.  As a general rule you do not want to boil the fruit because it will create a pectin haze.  For my chocolate chili porter I add the chilies to the secondary.  Fresh chilies get frozen and thawed and dried chilies get some boiling water poured over them for a quick sanitizing soak before adding to the secondary.  Then I taste test every day or two and in less than a week it's ready to bottle.  The cherry beer and cranberry mead I made recently both had the fruit added at the end of the boil.  The fruit was frozen, thawed somewhat, and then added at the end so it brought the temp down to around 160, which will pasteurize the fruit without setting the pectin.  The cherries (beer) remained in the primary for about 2 weeks before I racked to the secondary and the cranberries (mead) were in a week or two longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="NicM" LastActivityDate="2010-01-09T21:12:43.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1154" CreationDate="2010-01-10T14:44:56.923" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling is a fairly poorly understood process.  That being said here is what I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Partial-wort Boil&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ups&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You probably already have all the necessary equipment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small footprint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to manage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use your kettle for other things&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Downs&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hop utilization suffers, meaning you must use more hops to get the same level of bitterness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a limit to iso-alpha acid concentration in wort - might have trouble making your favorite imperial double IPA. &lt;sup&gt;citation needed&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; more difficult to accommodate all-grain batches because they necessitate full-wort boils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil-overs make a mess on the stove&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should sanitize top-off water to minimize infection risk, giving you another process to mind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wort-darkening reactions happen faster at higher concentration, so your beer comes out darker than expected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Full-wort Boil&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ups&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can handle a full batch of wort from a mash tun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hop utilization is better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wort-darkening reactions happen at an expected concentration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can size your kettle to minimize the possibility of boil-over&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Downs&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is very difficult to boil a full batch on the stove, making it necessary to buy a burner in addition to a large pot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil-overs make a mess on the deck/garage/sidewalk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More (large) equipment to manage &amp;amp; store&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-10T14:44:56.923" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1020" CreationDate="2010-01-11T12:46:35.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you go and purchase an entire setup that includes a tank consider this.  Around me most places I go to won't fill a CO2 tank.  They only do swap programs.  A swap program is where you go to a gas supply retail store and they take your empty tank and give you a full tank in return.  You normally pay some sort of fee for the initial tank, then its a small fee for the swap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when I got started I paid like $50 plus bucks for a new shiney tank, then I couldn't find anyone to fill it.  Eventually, I had to just give up the new tank into the swap program.  At the time it was only $20-25 to get started in the swap.  But that $25 counts for 5-6 fills of CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't worry about the new tank issue.  Some brewers think having a nice shiney tank is important.  You really don't spend anytime looking at the tank. I have never been to a homebrewers house and cared how clean their CO2 tank looked, if I even noticed it at all.&#xA;The other good thing about the swap program is you never need to worry about the tank going out of certification.  After a certain period of time law requires that tanks be taken out of service and recycled due to safety issues.  If you are in a swap program, that is never a concern because the gas supplier assumes that wear-out cost.  Its just a one time fee for you.  If you had a new tank, 5 plus years of heavy use down the line they might have to decommision your tank, then you're buying a new tank again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lesson being, the single most important thing is to research where you are going to get your CO2 before you get into kegging.  You can save yourself some serious heartache and some good cash by avoiding my history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the best advice I have found for new keggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the tank issue, then its just a regulator, lines, beverage in and gas out connectors and a tap or faucet of some sort.  Oh and the keg!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-11T12:46:35.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1160" CreationDate="2010-01-11T12:57:01.667" Score="7" ViewCount="11572" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you fix a stuck sparge?  Are there any tricks too getting a sparge running again when it slows to a trick or even stops completely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is not intended to be a &quot;how to prevent&quot; the stuck sparge answer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-05-04T12:36:00.670" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T21:56:34.680" Title="Remedy for a Stuck sparge" Tags="|all-grain|sparge|wort|techniques|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1159" CreationDate="2010-01-11T13:00:38.203" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the quickest solution I have used in a pinch is to blow air back up my exit tube from the mash tun.  This tends to dislodge some of the spent grains collected in or on the sparge manifold (regardless of the type you are using).  Then a quick stir and recirculate and often I am back in business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step after blow back is to thin the mash a bit with some more hot sparge water and stir really well, focusing on getting down near the manifold.  This is where having a well secured manifold comes in handy, so it doesn't dislodge from being bumped and banged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slowly reopening the valve and taking a little extra time for the grain bed to set up first before maximizing my flow settings helps too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-11T13:00:38.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1171" CreationDate="2010-01-11T13:02:45.960" Score="7" ViewCount="909" Body="&lt;p&gt;What steps pre-mash can be taken to limit the likelihood of a stuck sparge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-01-11T16:41:08.167" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T09:41:04.107" Title="Preventing a Stuck Sparge" Tags="|sparge|wort|lauter|mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1165" CreationDate="2010-01-11T13:06:54.343" Score="9" ViewCount="1120" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the proper procedure for steeping specialty grains while extract brewing?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Temp, time, grain bags or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-01-28T13:44:49.977" LastActivityDate="2010-01-28T13:44:49.977" Title="Steeping Specialty Grains" Tags="|steeping|flavor|wort|specialty-malt|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1031" CreationDate="2010-01-11T13:53:56.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew in my garage with a propane cooker, right in the doorway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the weather is cold, I move my brew station under a window in the garage and brew with the door only open about 6 inches and the said window open a couple inches.  I use CO monitors at knee level and chest level as a precaution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never had a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CO doesn't suddenly overtake you and put you down.  If you are aware of the warning signs, you'll have plenty of time to make changes to your setup as you brew before CO becomes a problem.  And its impossible to be burning up all the available O2 in the garage environment (let alone a significant amount to affect you), no ones garage is that well sealed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-01-11T13:59:04.850" LastActivityDate="2010-01-11T13:59:04.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1166" CreationDate="2010-01-11T14:04:12.843" Score="3" ViewCount="1147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a Young's Double Chocolate Stout clone (extract &amp;amp; specialty grains) in the primary.  I got the recipe from one of the responses to &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/forum/read/1562257&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this forum question&lt;/a&gt;.  (You have to be logged in to beeradvocate to see the responses.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been fermenting for 11 days.  Since about day 6 when airlock activity slowed dramatically, there has been a gooey yellow-white film on top of the beer that is holding some bubbles trapped underneath.  This film doesn't look like any infections I've ever seen pictures of; it's not fuzzy or crackled and there are no radial patterns laying on top.  I don't think it's infected, but I've never seen anything like this in the dozens of batches I've ever made.  I think it may be yeast and/or lactose trapped on top of maybe some protein film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first time I've used lactose (12 ounces of it), cane sugar (4 oz), invert sugar (8 oz), and yeast nutrient (1/8 tsp).  If you have experience with any of these ingredients, have you noticed interesting krausen after fermentation slowed similar to what I've described?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T12:48:00.260" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T12:48:00.260" Title="Gooey Yellow-White film after fermentation slows when using lactose" Tags="|beer|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1162" CreationDate="2010-01-11T14:10:24.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if there's a &quot;proper&quot; way to do it, but I've always used a grain bag with good results up until my most recent batch.  Time and temperature vary based on the grains being used and desired flavor profile, among other variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my most recent batch I steeped 2 pounds of specialty grains in 3 quarts of water in a separate pot, drained this through a cheesecloth-lined colander into my brew pot, then rinsed with 1.5 quarts of 170 degree F water.  I don't know if it made a difference, but I kind of liked doing it this way.  It seemed like more grain surface could come in contact with the steeping water to allow for more flavor extraction.  It's kind of like how it's better to steep tea in a filter cup than in one of those tea balls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-01-11T14:10:24.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1164" CreationDate="2010-01-11T14:23:25.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering this question is dependent on knowing the strain of yeast you used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After fermentation slows sometimes dissolved CO2 can start to carry flocculating yeast to the surface and make weird films of yeast like you describe.  It doesn't sound like too big of a concern to me.  Furthermore, the addition of lactose (a non-fermentable sugar) could also be increasing the viscosity slightly depending on when you added it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, it sounds fairly normal to me, what you are seeing.  If its the first time you have used yeast nutrient as well then its likely that you are just seeing fermentation slowdown in a manner you aren't used to in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T22:06:49.793" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T22:06:49.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-11T14:59:53.167" Score="19" ViewCount="4050" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some uses for spent grains - either a few pounds from a partial mash or the 10+ from an all-grain batch - that don't include just throwing the grains away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your answer is to include some sort of baked good, please describe how you dry, how much you dry, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit]&#xA;One issue with recipe ideas is that they take very little grain. I'd also love some ideas for the pounds and pounds of spent grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-01-11T23:40:27.510" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T15:26:10.000" Title="Uses for spent grains" Tags="|spent-grain|" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-11T14:59:53.167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2010-01-11T15:01:08.593" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last summer my roommate was maintaining a compost heap. The grains would all go into that. The better I rinsed the grains, the less stinky this would become after a few days. Sort of a natural efficiency check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-01-11T15:01:08.593" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-11T15:01:08.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1162" CreationDate="2010-01-11T15:24:57.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, from a different perspective, steeping grains is just the same thing as mashing, you're just using a bag to remove the grains rather than draining the water from the grain bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also not sure that there is a &quot;proper&quot; way, but just like a mash the temperature and amount of water you have mixed in with your grain makes a significant difference in what you get out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During a mash you're converting starches in the malt to sugars and there is a specific temperature range that works very well for that.  In your grain bag, you're using entirely specialty malts, so there will be very little starch-sugar conversion going on, because those malts do not have the diastatic power to convert their own starches, so you don't necessarily need to worry about it as much, but if you're temperature is too high, you're going to leech a lot of tannins out of the grain in addition to the flavor compounds that you're looking for.  170F is probably about as hot as I would get it.  I'd shoot for 150F - 160F.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also want to make sure that your grain isn't bound too tightly inside the sack.  You want to make sure that the grain has as much surface area as possible in contact with the water.  Leave it in there for an hour, and you're probably fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back when I was doing partial extract, before going to all-grain, I was putting a small amount of normal pale 2-row malt into my grain sack.  Pale malt has lots of diastatic power and can help starch conversion with specialty grains.  You still won't get enough out of it to not also want to use malt extract, but I always found that I had a much fuller flavor from my specialty grains when I supplemented them with 10% -20% extra pale malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastActivityDate="2010-01-11T15:24:57.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1164" CreationDate="2010-01-11T15:28:05.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a fair amount of actual chocolate in that recipe.  That layer that you're seeing may actually be cocoa butter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be terrifying, but:  smell it taste it.  That'll give you a great idea of what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastActivityDate="2010-01-11T15:28:05.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1161" CreationDate="2010-01-11T15:30:52.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Get the right crush&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the single most important thing to prevent a stuck sparge. Read the HomebrewTalk's wiki page on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Evaluating_the_Crush&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;evaluating the crush&lt;/a&gt;.  An ideal milling breaks the internal bits of grain into a coarse powder while leaving the bulk of the husks intact. It is the husks that do the most to set up a good filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mA3mc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mA3mc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up of a good crush&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/images/thumb/f/f0/Crush_moist_normal_closeup.jpg/315px-Crush_moist_normal_closeup.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;homebrewtalk.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;   &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Image:Crush_moist_normal_closeup.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;full size&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Use a good manifold design&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A large area covered by the manifold or pick-up, spaced evenly across the bed. A few, or a single, pick-up may lead to channeling, which compacts the grain bed. John Palmer covers this topic in his book &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. His findings are the result of experiments he designed with fish tanks and dyed water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbHru.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbHru.gif&quot; alt=&quot;MLT flow rates&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/images/f173.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;howtobrew.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other things&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sparge slowly&lt;/strong&gt; Take at least 30 minutes to rinse the grainbed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mash out&lt;/strong&gt; Raising the mash temperature (168&amp;deg;F) not only stops enzymatic reactions, it makes the mash liquid flow more easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keep the grainbed wet&lt;/strong&gt; Always have an inch or two of water above the grainbed. If you let sparge water run too low the top may compress.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rice hulls&lt;/strong&gt; Available at most any LHBS, they add no flavor and increase the filtering capability of the grainbed. After you crush, mix the rice hulls into the grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-02T09:41:04.107" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T09:41:04.107" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1173" CreationDate="2010-01-11T16:16:42.310" Score="8" ViewCount="25389" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I've had a streak of hot fermentations. My primary vessel nears 80º, and sometimes more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my latest batch, I've moved to a &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; cooler part of the house. I expect it to consistently stay around 69º.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;However, out of curiosity, if it were to fluctuate, what would be too low? And if it is too low and fermentation is suspended, does this pose any further issue than a longer fermentation period (after bringing the vessel back to ~70º)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:49:15.223" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T12:49:15.223" Title="Ale Fermentation Temp. Too Cold?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1172" CreationDate="2010-01-11T16:26:57.430" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the yeast maker's web site for preferred temperatures.  Yeast can work in a range, many down to 60&amp;deg;F. Pick a yeast that can handle the temps, hybrids like California ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If fermentation is truly stopped, not just slow, you need to wake the yeast up again. When temperatures return to the preferred range shake the carboy up to rouse the yeast and it should pick back up again. When you shake it CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; will come out of the beer and your airlock might sputter all over the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastActivityDate="2010-01-11T16:26:57.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2010-01-11T16:31:25.913" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend with chickens. They love the spent grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, when there isn't too much, I throw it right on my lawn and rake it around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make bread with grain just use any whole-grain recipe. I do not dry out the grains because it can mess up the wet to dry ratio of the recipe. Usually I take it out of the bag and make bread with it that day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastActivityDate="2010-01-11T16:31:25.913" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-11T16:31:25.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1172" CreationDate="2010-01-11T16:35:32.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Optimal temperature ranges vary slightly yeast to yeast.  So a check with the yeast supplier will help with that data.  But for most Ale yeast getting below 60F is probably too low.  Maybe you still get fermentation, but the lower the temp gets for most ale yeast the cleaner it ferments.  So if your making something with an english ale yeast, you might miss out of some of the intended flavors that strain makes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When temperature drops too much for the yeast this can signal them to start to flocculate out prematurelty.  Again, certain english strains flocculate so well that reheating the fermentor may not be enough to get them active again.  If you suspect that the yeast has significantly started to floc-out due to low temps you'll need you rouse them manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can rouse yeast with a sanitize racking cane and stir a bit, you can literally swirly the fermentor some if you have enough head space to do it.  Some brewers with access to pressurized CO2 (from a kegging setup) will actually blow CO2 through a racking can into the cake to get the yeast up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do need to rouse your yeast you should warm up the fermentor first, then do the rousing.  Otherwise, the yeast will settle right back out and not &quot;wake-up&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-11T16:35:32.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1172" CreationDate="2010-01-11T17:40:19.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the winter our house stays very consistent around 69 - 70 degrees. It sometimes drops 2 or 3 degrees and I have not had any issues as far as I know. I've never experienced huge drops in temperature though. I leave the carboy on our concrete floor and I'm assuming that helps maintain a consistent temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-01-11T17:40:19.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2010-01-11T18:42:44.943" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dog biscuits, I'll try and find the recipe I used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/12/10 EDIT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the recipe I use. I've modified it a bit from a common one that I found on line a couple years back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4cups spent grain&#xA;4cups flour&#xA;2 Egg whites&#xA;1.5 cups Peanut Butter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix it all up roll it out the best you can and then make shapes, rectangles whatever.  I actually have a dogbone shaped cutter I use.&#xA;Bake at 350 for 20-30minutes, until firmed up.&#xA;They are ready to go.  I store them frozen.  But I have read of people then putting the treats in a 200F oven for several hours to really dry them out for storage.&#xA;Its a bit of an art to find the right ingredient ratios.  Alot depends on the residual moisture in the grain.  SO jsut work with it, don't be afraid to add water or more flour depending on the feel of the &quot;dough&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Just make sure not to get any hops in the grains (this typically shouldn't happen) because they are harmful to dogs.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="2960" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T04:29:02.280" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T04:29:02.280" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-11T18:42:44.943" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2010-01-11T22:38:49.707" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bread&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;By far the most common product of homebrewer's spent grains (don't fact-check me ;)).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;With just 3 cups of (wet) grains, you can make a couple loaves of &lt;em&gt;excellent&lt;/em&gt; bread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our recent recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;3 cups of wet grains&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(in this case they were 2 parts Crystal 120 and 1 part Special B)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;3-4 cups of flour (depending on grain's water content)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&quot;a bit&quot; of oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1 cup warm water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1/3 cup of sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;a package of dry bakers yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Start yeast in warm water. Mix/kneed flour into grains. Enough flour so that the dough isn't sticky. Let the dough rise until it's doubled in size. Split into two. Bake at 375º for 30-40 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turned out real tasty: sweet, dense but fluffy (if that's possible).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Your mileage may vary, as this was at high altitude (5,280 feet or so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-01-11T23:41:41.643" LastActivityDate="2010-01-11T23:41:41.643" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-11T22:38:49.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2010-01-12T00:10:40.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made bread, used them in compost, brought them down to my mother's place to give to the donkeys and horses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2010-01-12T00:10:40.073" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-12T00:10:40.073" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1181" CreationDate="2010-01-12T00:39:18.677" Score="11" ViewCount="3824" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I pour kegged beer into bottles and immediately cap them to take with me for the evening, will it remain well-carbonated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T03:02:50.623" Title="Will force-carbonated beer remain carbonated if poured into a bottle and capped?" Tags="|carbonation|bottling|kegging|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1180" CreationDate="2010-01-12T02:01:20.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often do this with swing-top bottles.  The carbonation suffers a little, but is fine for a day trip or evening out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the bottles in the freezer an hour or so before filling.  Warmer liquid does not hold as much CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; and this prevents your beer from warming up upon touching the bottle.  Fill all the way up and cap on foam.  Pour and immediately cap, don't fill a few in a row before capping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1013/competitions-kegging&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T03:02:50.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1180" CreationDate="2010-01-12T13:52:21.650" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend over carbing a little in the keg to help make up for losses.&#xA;Chill your bottles down to help minimize the loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't pour!!! You can retrofit a bottle filler onto the end of some beer line and fill like that from a bev out connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also jam a peice of tubing like on a standard racking cane (3/8ths??) into a cobra tap.  Make it as long as the bottles you want to fill and fill from the bottom up. This really minimizes carb loss and oxidation. Burp the keg and use only enough pressure to get the beer flowing (5-6psi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-12T13:52:21.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2010-01-12T17:08:21.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Second that on the Therminator. Unmatched chilling ability. I have been using it for a couple of years without any of the issues some users have mentioned with crud inside but I always backflush it with hot water and recently have been including it in my CIP with PBW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am capturing the hot water from the output and using it to clean up my mash-tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-01-12T17:08:21.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1191" CreationDate="2010-01-12T17:32:42.173" Score="7" ViewCount="3889" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Young's Double Chocolate Stout clone recipe I'm about to rack to the secondary in two days calls for 0.33 ounces of chocolate extract.  That's less than a tablespoon.  The bottle of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/chocolate-extract-4-oz.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chocolate extract I got from the brew supply shop&lt;/a&gt; says to use 4-5 ounces per 5 gallons.  That's quite a bit of difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recipe also has 13 oz. of British chocolate malt and 6 ounces of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kingarthurflour.com/shop/items/black-cocoa-16-oz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this dark cocoa powder&lt;/a&gt;.  That's a lot of chocolate, so I'm pretty sure I don't want the full four ounces of chocolate extract.  However, I'm concerned that 0.33 ounces in the secondary won't have any impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used this chocolate extract?  Did you feel you used too little or too much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-23T23:20:05.523" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T23:20:05.523" Title="How much chocolate extract should I use?" Tags="|beer|flavor|extract|secondary|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2010-01-12T17:36:05.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fermenting 10 gallon batches in single vessels that don't fit inside a chest freezer and the heat created by the fermentation itself seems to have a greater effect when the whole batch is in a single vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a small utility closet that is insulated and inside there is a small space heater and a mobile air conditioner that vents out the wall. They are both hooked up to a Ranco controller but I'm about to switch them to a BCS-460. The mobile AC unit came off Craigslist and I already had the heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the space, this can really work well if you want to have multiple batches fermenting at once without the space constraints of a freezer but obviously they all have to require the same fermentation temperature and this won't drop the temperature down low enough for lagering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-01-12T17:36:05.363" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-12T17:36:05.363" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1180" CreationDate="2010-01-12T17:39:29.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a growler to take to parties is often the easiest option. Easy to fill, you probably already have a few around and will stay carbonated for a couple of days when filled from your regular tap. Bottling and capping is something I reserve exclusively for gift giving and competition entry and those recipes usually benefit from bottle conditioning anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-01-12T17:39:29.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1185" CreationDate="2010-01-12T17:42:15.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used chocolate extract. &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/323/taylor&quot;&gt;Taylor&lt;/a&gt; might be able to help better with that, as he just used real chocolate in a batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have the equipment to have two secondaries? You could test the ratio for future batches, putting .16 oz in one, and 2 oz in the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T15:47:50.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1159" CreationDate="2010-01-12T17:45:53.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, getting some heat into the mash is the most important so depending on your process that may mean adding hot water or applying heat. Its amazing how much heat get lost during sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the ability to recirculate (RIMS/HERMS) run the recirculation in reverse which essentially floats the grain bed and brings hot wort back up from underneath. Let it settle for a few minutes and then very slowly start sparging again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastEditorUserId="435" LastEditDate="2010-02-16T15:10:06.510" LastActivityDate="2010-02-16T15:10:06.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1161" CreationDate="2010-01-12T17:51:21.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I have noticed with some of the recipe kits is that they don't always separate the adjuncts from the grain. Running flaked maize, wheat or oats through a mill is a guaranteed stuck sparge. Make sure that the more non-grain ingredients in the recipe the more attention you pay to volume, mash thickness, sparge temperature and flow rates. I think its mentally less frustrating to deal with if you know from the recipe that the probability of getting stuck is higher. Rice hulls are a must, get a big bag and keep them around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-01-12T17:51:21.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1185" CreationDate="2010-01-12T17:53:10.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used the entire 8oz tin of herseys dark cocao powder in a porter before and it turned out great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would hold the extract for bottling.  Transfer your finished beer to your bottling bucket and taste a little.  Add some extract until you get it to where you want it.  Then add your priming sugar and off you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-12T17:53:10.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1172" CreationDate="2010-01-12T18:00:32.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm amazed that your 80°F fermentations finished at all. That is pretty high for almost all the yeast strains I'm using. I try to keep mine at a maximum of 74°F which is the upper limit for most of my yeasts. Fermenting at these temperatures usually results in a high final gravity and a lot of diacetyl and residual sweetness. Depending on the style, this may be okay. If that space in your house is constantly around 69°F and not subject to a lot of airflow (doors opening etc), you will probably find the fermentation running 2-3°F warmer due the heat produced by the fermenting yeast. Still keep an eye on it, you may find it still running hot and you certainly won't have issues with yeast dormancy at that temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-01-12T18:00:32.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1031" CreationDate="2010-01-12T18:09:47.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I boil on my patio and mash inside using an electric HERMS setup. Propane is great for maintaining a rolling boil but its not cheap (comparatively) and very inefficient as you lose a lot of energy to the atmosphere instead of into the boil. Using a shroud made out of cheap aluminium sheeting to channel the heat up the sides of the pot and protect the flame from crosswinds will make a major impact on how long it takes to boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware reaching over the top of the shroud to stir though as the heat will be concentrated there, all my brewing fleece's have crispy forearms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love brewing outside in the winter, the roar of the flame and being outside on a cold day standing around a steaming pot of hot wort can't be beaten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-01-12T18:09:47.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2010-01-12T19:14:08.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I let the grains cool then dump them on top of my hop hills since I grow my own hops.  Whatever is left goes in the main bed of the garden.  Don't let them cool too long, you mash tun will end up smelling like vomit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2010-01-12T19:14:08.140" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-12T19:14:08.140" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2010-01-12T19:44:50.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I compost them, they seem to break down fairly quickly. I don't know if they stink or not, there's a reason the compost pile is far from my house though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-01-12T19:44:50.297" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-12T19:44:50.297" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-12T23:24:24.663" Score="8" ViewCount="2363" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hot-side aeration&lt;/em&gt; (HSA) is the introduction of oxygen to wort during &quot;hot side&quot; operations such as mashing, lautering, boiling and whirlpool. Prior evidence indicated that hot-side aeration harms the shelf-life of beer by increasing the concentration of oxidized fatty acids. However, there is an emerging body of evidence contradicting these claims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the prevailing evidence regarding HSA?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-20T14:34:21.537" LastActivityDate="2010-02-20T14:34:21.537" Title="What's the impact of hot-side aeration?" Tags="|hot-side-aeration|process|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1196" CreationDate="2010-01-13T13:25:42.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh boy this will be a fun question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I draw my line in the sand at the point of the boil. The way my equipment is set up I collect my mash run off in a spare bucket. I then pour it into my keg/kettle and start the heat.  Meanwhile I start the second run off into the now empty bucket (yes I am a batch sparger).  The wort is ~168-170F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can honestly say that I have never seen this cause premature oxidation in my beer and the 6-8 different fellow brewers that sample my beer have never mentioned it.  Nor does it come up in competition scoresheets.  Furthermore, I don't drink my beer all that fast, so I have had beer sitting around for 4-6months, still not evidence of HSA from this preboil practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have intentionally stirred the living daylights out of a small (2.5 gallon batch) and shot a little pure O2 into some wort post boil but pre chill.  That batch was drinkable for the first couple weeks, but when stored at room temp in a keg for 3 weeks or so it started to get papery and oxidized.  It was a amberish ale. 1.048OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in my experience, the boil does tend to drive off the O2 that I may introduce from the violent pour into the kettle. OR the 168F just doesn't create those HSA reactions that fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK that where I stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-13T13:25:42.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1204" CreationDate="2010-01-13T13:29:55.673" Score="9" ViewCount="1619" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do these two malts differ?  I can find sources at times with slightly different colors and I know there must be flavor differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone could shed light on how the two are produced and what the flavor impressions are of each one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-14T21:35:17.437" Title="Munich and Vienna Malt" Tags="|malt|ingredients|recipe|flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1258" CreationDate="2010-01-13T13:43:46.143" Score="7" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of small amounts of leftover specialty grains ranging from 3 ounces to about 8 ounces of various types.  I'd like to brew something with them.  Are there any good sites out there that might allow me to enter the grains I have and suggest a recipe style that might come from the grains I entered?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-02-10T17:12:48.633" LastActivityDate="2010-02-10T17:12:48.633" Title="Are there any reverse recipe caluclator / generators online?" Tags="|recipe|calculations|software|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1201" CreationDate="2010-01-13T13:47:18.713" Score="4" ViewCount="698" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today is 14°F (-10°C) here in the northern suburbs of MA.  In wintertime it can be tough to brew outside if you are a propane cooker brewer such as myself.&#xA;When the tank is going full bore it tends to frost up and get really cold as that liquid propane in the tank vaporizes.&#xA;I don't know if the propane actually freezes, but as it gets colder and colder the flow rate can trickle to a stand still and the boil becomes difficult to maintain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone else notice that?&#xA;What do you do to combat it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T07:48:09.797" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T07:48:09.797" Title="Propane tank usage in wintertime" Tags="|equipment|boil|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1200" CreationDate="2010-01-13T13:50:48.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two tanks and two burners actually.  What I do is fire off about 2 gallons of water and get it up to about 150F.  Then I pour that one of those part tubs (for keeping a half barrel cpacked with ice).  And I put my propane tank in there.  The water only comes up to the top of the base ring on the tank.  The tank isn't submerged in the hot water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put the tub on top of a couple folded down cardboard boxes to insulate it a bit from the floor, and I cover the top of it with a few old beach towels to help trap the steam.  This seems to keep the tank from getting too cold and I can get through an entire session.  If I need too I can fire up the second burner with the second tank and get a little more hot water going if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-13T13:50:48.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1180" CreationDate="2010-01-13T13:56:16.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes!  With a father that wants to try each of my beers, I often fill growlers directly from the keg after the beer carbonates (its just easy).  As long as you &quot;cap&quot; it immediately and chill it, the carbonation will hold.  I actually got a picture message last night of a stout I gave him 6 months ago in a growler that still had good carbonation.  If you are planning on drinking the bottles that night....you'll be good to go.  Hope this helps      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Nathan " LastActivityDate="2010-01-13T13:56:16.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1199" CreationDate="2010-01-13T13:57:54.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never seen what you are talking about before. Its a shame because I have heard several people ask for it.  You might be able to seach the BeerTools recipe database for a single ingredient, but I don't remember.  Here are some links to popular online recipe generating calculators.  Although none of them are &quot;&lt;em&gt;reverse&lt;/em&gt;&quot; calulators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.  My only other solution would be to post what you have on a typical brewing forum site and ask for feedback and recipes that way.  You'll find some creative solutions that way I am sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beertools.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerTools Online&lt;/a&gt; has one. You have to create a user account, but its free.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/recipe.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tasty Brew&lt;/a&gt; has a decent calculator.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I used to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/recipator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The BeerRecipator&lt;/a&gt; a long time ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-13T13:57:54.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1198" CreationDate="2010-01-13T15:04:59.060" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chez, you're in luck. I just wrapped up a double 1-gallon experiment with these two malts. Had the brew-bug one day &amp;amp; two 55 pound sacks of malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experiment was simple. I made gallon batches of 1.040 OG beer solely from each malt. Hopping was kept to a single 60 minute addition of about 20 IBUs.  I selected a clean ale yeast and fermented cool to minimize its influence.  Both brews finished around 1.011 SG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Munich Malt&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Aroma&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toasty notes. A little grainy sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Appearance&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tanish-amber in color. Tan head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Flavor&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grainy, toasty. Leans to the dry side, with just a little malt sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Vienna Malt&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Aroma&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grain sweetness up front&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Appearance&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paler than the Munich beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Flavor&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biscuit. Has a soft (or smooth) sweetness but not cloying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-13T15:04:59.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1208" CreationDate="2010-01-13T15:44:53.247" Score="22" ViewCount="31986" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of each bottle sanitizing method? Let's look at time, equipment, quality of sanitation, and other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post one answer for each method. Edit the answers if you have things to say about that method. (Community Wiki)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Boiling&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Process&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you boil bottles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Equipment&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's needed for this method&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Effectiveness&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How effective is this method&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other Pros&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other Cons&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{brewpoll}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-03-01T17:04:52.097" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T09:34:06.707" Title="[WIKI] Bottle Sanitizing Techniques - Pros &amp; Cons" Tags="|bottling|sanitation|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-13T15:44:53.247" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1205" CreationDate="2010-01-13T15:46:38.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Boiling&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Process&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill your kettle with water, and put bottles in, making sure each is filled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil for a few minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take bottles out, pour water back into kettle, place bottles on counter. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once they've cooled enough, I like to cover them with plastic wrap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill with beer, cap, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Equipment&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kettle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something to help force bottles into the water. I sometimes use a bent coat hanger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic wrap, tin foil, whatever works to cover the bottles and prevent things from settling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Effectiveness&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never had a contamination problem using it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other Pros&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very few supplies required&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other Cons&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extremely time intensive. You can only boil a few bottles at a time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First bottles boiled are sitting out for a while, unless you have enough people to bottle while boiling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sticking your hand in boiling water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-01-14T19:34:39.337" LastActivityDate="2010-01-14T19:34:39.337" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-13T15:46:38.033" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1205" CreationDate="2010-01-13T15:56:11.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Baking&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Process&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place clean bottles on baking pan (2 regular sized cookie pans hold&#xA;48 bottles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tear off small squares of tin foil and cover the openings of the&#xA;bottles (this will keep the bottles sterilized until they're ready for bottling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place bottles in the oven&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn oven to 340°F and let the bottles gradually heat up while the&#xA;over pre-heats (this prevents breakage from extreme changes in&#xA;temperature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the oven is heated, bake the bottles for 60 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let cool, and store with the tin foil on until it's time to bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Equipment&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Baking sheet/pan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tin foil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oven&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Effectiveness&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't just sanitize, it sterilizes, and keeps your bottle sterile until you need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other Pros&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kills 100% of microorganisms &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottles are ready when you are&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prepare anytime ahead of bottling day&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other Cons&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't see any&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-04-23T07:25:53.163" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T07:25:53.163" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-13T15:56:11.333" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1205" CreationDate="2010-01-13T15:56:49.400" Score="13" Body="&lt;h2&gt;PBW + Sanitizer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Process&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill your bucket up with PBW&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak bottles 2-5 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect bottles for cleanliness, using elbow grease to remove sediment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse &amp;amp; dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go back to step 2 until all your bottles are clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method is smoother if you put a dirty bottle in every time you take a clean one out. Gotta be able to keep track of your rotation. I ring the bucket with a queue of bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanitizing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill your bucket with sanitizer like Star-San&lt;sup&gt;TM&lt;/sup&gt; or idophor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak bottles 30-120 seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove a bottle, drip drain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill &amp;amp; cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return to step 2 until all bottles are done&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, the rotating queue works well here. Drain a bottle with one hand while submerging another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Equipment&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5-gallon bucket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Effectiveness&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotally: 100% (I've never had a bottle infection) &lt;sup&gt;Citation needed&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other Pros&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scales well: you can throw more buckets and people at it if you have a big job.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other Cons&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time consuming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-15T03:06:14.430" LastActivityDate="2010-01-15T03:06:14.430" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-13T15:56:49.400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1199" CreationDate="2010-01-13T17:26:28.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beersmith lets you &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/advanced%5Ffeatures.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;search for recipes based on your inventory&lt;/a&gt; (scroll down to &quot;Search By Ingredient&quot;). If you don't already have a huge bank of recipes in Beersmith, they have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/recipes.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recipe packs&lt;/a&gt; to pre-populate your database.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, there's always &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;amp;rls=en&amp;amp;q=%224+oz+crystal+60L%22+%228+oz+carapils%22&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;oq=&amp;amp;aqi=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="356" LastActivityDate="2010-01-13T17:26:28.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="782" CreationDate="2010-01-13T18:13:31.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, its more than aesthetics.&#xA;Most of the Belgian styles of beers require higher than typical carbonation levels.  This requires stronger bottles.  It just so happens the majority of the easiest bottles to get your hands on for bottling very spritzy belgian styles are only corkable versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats the reason to get into corking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-13T18:13:31.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="806" CreationDate="2010-01-13T18:16:48.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The end of fermentation is not marked by the lack of activity in an airlock.  Its determined by the arrival at terminal graivty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb is to check the gravity a few days consecutively until it doesn't change anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be too sweet because it wasn't actually done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-13T18:16:48.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="806" CreationDate="2010-01-13T18:37:29.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely post your recipe, including the yeast strain you used.  In addition to everything suggested in the previous answers, note that different yeast strains have different levels of efficiency (known as attenuation).  Some ale yeasts will convert as much as 85% of the available sugar, some as low 60%.  Lower-attenuation yeast will give you a sweeter beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As was mentioned, the only way to know for sure is to take gravity readings.  If your current gravity is within the range you'd calculate based on the starting gravity and the attenuation of your yeast strain and it hasn't moved for a few days, it's done.  If you're currently showing that, say, only 40% of the fermentables have been consumed, you don't want to bottle it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-01-13T18:37:29.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1221" CreationDate="2010-01-14T13:35:19.173" Score="7" ViewCount="2929" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is using a yeast starter 100% essential when brewing a lager or can you use a few liquid vials?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-04-20T16:53:23.310" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T13:34:30.773" Title="Is a yeast starter required when brewing a lager?" Tags="|yeast|starter|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1217" CreationDate="2010-01-14T13:57:03.683" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The goal is to pitch an adequate number of viable yeast cells in order to get a good fermentation.  Whether you do that with a starter you built yourself or by buying more yeast does not matter.  A useful tool is Jamil &quot;Mr Malty&quot; Zainasheff's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot;&gt;pitching rate calculator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the long run it's cheaper to buy yourself a 5 liter erlenmeyer flask and learn how to make a good starter. In a pinch though, buy more yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-14T13:57:03.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1205" CreationDate="2010-01-14T14:05:13.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Bleach Solution&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Process&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a 10% (or so) bleach solution and submerge/soak bottles. I have heard that you only need to do a 10 minute soak to sanitize bottles in this sort of solution but I don't think I've ever done a soak that short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After soaking I drain the bottles and let them dry on a bottle tree.&#xA;I generally don't rinse them after wards but that doesn't mean you can't. I can't tell any difference in the beer taste between the times I have rinsed the bottles vs simply letting them dry, YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Equipment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bleach&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sort of large bucket/tub/cooler to soak bottles in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Effectiveness&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has worked well for me so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Pros&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bleach is cheap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can throw the bottles in there and forget about them until it's convenient to remember them (though don't wait months, see cons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works decently well for taking labels off of scavenged bottles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Cons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally I keep a cooler full of solution and it usually has bottles soaking in it. However bleach does lose it's potency over time and once I opened the cooler to find a lot of nasty slime growing in the water, that was not a fun afternoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-01-14T14:05:13.447" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-14T14:05:13.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1217" CreationDate="2010-01-14T15:11:03.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed two 5 gallon batches of Lager, both times with dry lager yeast and both times without starters (the dry yeast package instructions said to sprinkle it into the wort, so that's what I did). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one turned out really well and the second one is currently bubbling merrily in my 40 degree basement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any experience with liquid vials but in my experience it's not 100% essential to have a starter. However, I'm sure making a starter and pitching more yeast certainly couldn't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-01-14T15:11:03.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1217" CreationDate="2010-01-14T15:49:45.987" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make good beer by using yeast directly out of whatever packaging style your favorite yeast comes in.  You can always pitch more by buying more too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, IMO, better beer and great beer is made when using a starter.&#xA;Its a function of viability and vitality of yeast.  Pitching more packs increases the # of viable cells you pitch.  However, a starter increases the number of viable cells and increases the vitality of those cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple experiment on the power of yeast vitality is to brew up a beer with your favorite packaged yeast and toss it right in without a starter. Even use two packs! Plan your next brew session for when the primary ends.  Transfer your beer to secondary or bottling as you would have planned, then pitch a cup of the yeast slurry into your next beer.  Essentially what you have there is a great pitch of yeast with super vitality. (of course the cell # thing will contribute too.  But you can correct for that with the MrMalty calculator, although the results will be the same).  You'll get a faster ferment and if you taste the two finished beers side by side BLIND; the repitch will be better in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is further discussion on the same &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com/what-happens-in-a-yeast-starter/644&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;viability and vitality&lt;/a&gt; matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1578" LastEditDate="2013-01-25T13:34:30.773" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T13:34:30.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1205" CreationDate="2010-01-14T17:20:37.750" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Dishwasher&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Process&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put bottles in dishwasher&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do not&lt;/em&gt; add dishwashing soap or rinse agents &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/3057/150&quot;&gt;(reference)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose &quot;sanitize&quot; cycle and heated dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Equipment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dishwasher with sanitize cycle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Effectiveness&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anecdotally it works for some people&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dishwasher needs to reach sanitizing temperatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Pros&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extremely easy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No chemicals needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Cons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not all dishwashers have a &quot;sanitize&quot; cycle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Those that do may not get hot enough to sanitize&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your dishwasher has or recently had rinse agents, they could affect your beer.&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/3057/150&quot;&gt;(reference)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="356" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T16:47:07.907" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-14T17:20:37.750" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1217" CreationDate="2010-01-14T17:23:56.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always make a starter for all beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a growler if you have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Takes 15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have started making starters 2.5 years ago, I have not had one infection, I always know that my yeast is viable, I pitch near the correct amount of yeast, and my beer tastes better. No infections, and I brew once a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2010-01-14T17:23:56.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1535" CreationDate="2010-01-14T17:56:39.377" Score="1" ViewCount="2966" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got back from a trip to the brew shop to get some stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They had a couple new malts I haven't heard of before.  One was this CaraBohemia malt.  It had an SRM of around 70L and was described as being intensitly caramel in flavor and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had that definate crystal malt aroma to it.  I tasted some and it was sort of somewhere bewteen brown malt and crystal 60 in its flavor profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone ever used it before? Any other info to be shared about it?&#xA;I was thinking maybe incorporating it into something like a miabock or O'fest/marzen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-01-27T14:17:50.250" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T12:04:44.120" Title="CaraBohemian malt" Tags="|ingredients|specialty-malt|flavor|malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1198" CreationDate="2010-01-14T21:35:17.437" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on a standard Pilsner Malt, for Vienna the barley gets watered some more (44-46% water instead of 42-46%). Also the roasting is slightly higher at 90°C instead of 80-85°C. Munich is made with still more water (up to 47%) and temepratures up to 110°C. Water and higher temperatures lead to a more pronounced Maillard-Reaction and hence formation of darker colour and caramel taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastActivityDate="2010-01-14T21:35:17.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1200" CreationDate="2010-01-14T22:07:43.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same issue in PA on cold days. I also have two tanks (three if you count the one in the grill) so I usually cycle them first to my boil rig, then as they lose power there either into the mash rig where a slow flame is beneficial or directly into the grill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a very cold brew day it means I always start the boil with a full tank and have a second (non-frozen) one on hand to back it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grill rarely suffers from this as it consumes it a comparatively slower rate so I can usually move it directly from a failing boil onto the grill and keep cooking the brew burgers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-01-14T22:07:43.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1205" CreationDate="2010-01-14T22:19:13.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Rinsing after use &amp;amp; Star San&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Process&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking this is cleaning but the sanitizing is simple this way.&#xA;Religiously rinse out empties at with a hot running tap. Two to three goes is all it takes, then a no-rinse sanitizer like Star-San for a few minutes immediately before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to get dried crud out of bottles later is too much hard work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Equipment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No special equipment needed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Effectiveness&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Pros&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm always concerned that not rinsing could impact head retention but I have no data to support this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Cons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not always pouring close to the sink where a quick rinse becomes a simple habit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-01-14T22:19:13.513" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-14T22:19:13.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1253" CreationDate="2010-01-15T17:44:10.377" Score="6" ViewCount="1684" Body="&lt;p&gt;What temp guidlines apply to doing a yeast starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the starter be at the intended fermentation temp?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Should it be higher for good growth/activity?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Should it be lower to keep it clean flavored?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-18T16:49:58.153" Title="Yeast starter temperatures" Tags="|yeast|starter|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1229" CreationDate="2010-01-15T17:46:45.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to run my starters at about 75F because its a constant temp in the room with my furnace year round.  I don't think fermentation temps are &lt;em&gt;critically&lt;/em&gt; relevant to the starter because starters are not fermenting (fermentation is an aerobic process, yeast growth happens aerobically).  So the idea is to get optimum growth and most all yeast grow best warm.  In fact warm, means closer to 85F than 75F, but that's what I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a stirplate which maximizes the growth in the culture by keeping good contact with the air in the flask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-15T17:46:45.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1280" CreationDate="2010-01-15T17:53:21.987" Score="4" ViewCount="1177" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do Columbus and Centential hops differ?&#xA;I have used them both in the past and usually in combination.  But I may purchase one over the other in bulk soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one of these comes out less harsh as a bittering hop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-01-16T22:12:52.067" LastActivityDate="2010-01-21T13:45:11.797" Title="Columbus and Centennial hops" Tags="|hops|bitterness|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-15T19:38:15.427" Score="7" ViewCount="7408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to get 2 full boils from 1 mash.  Can I keep the 2nd runnings overnight for boiling the following day?  If so, what is the best way to store it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, how long can wort be kept after mashing before it's boiled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-05-24T19:40:01.337" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T10:41:38.937" Title="How soon after mashing do I need to start my boil?" Tags="|wort|mash|partigyle|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2010-01-15T20:44:01.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can, but baddies will be chowing down on your delicious sugary wort overnight.  I've heard of people using the brew in a bag method doing this though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thought would be to boil it for 15 minutes, put the lid on the kettle. I would think this would work well for a day or so.  If you can fit your whole kettle in an extra fridge this would help as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some will get in there, but with a starter, the yeast will quickly overwhelm them with low pH and alchohol.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2010-01-15T20:44:01.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2010-01-15T21:08:48.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The guy at my homebrew shop was telling me that he mashes and lauters at night, then boils the next morning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Billions of cells of yeast specifically bred for beer can take a couple days to start fermenting. Leaving it in a covered, sanitized container overnight and then boiling it for an hour seems like it would be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="356" LastActivityDate="2010-01-15T21:08:48.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2010-01-16T11:37:30.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can bring all the wort up to 185 or better yet just to a boil, you'll decrease the chance of some spoilage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grains are covered in spoiling bacteria and yeasts. The primary culprit is lactobacillus a souring bacteria.  So over time you may get a little bit of souring if you store the wort to long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, the short answer is to try it.  I have seen where several brewers try it and do it with success.  I am mildly dubious, but if it works it works.  Give it a try and then provide your own answer or an update in your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cool thing is that you are making the same beer with the two collections then you can compare the overnight stored wort beer to the beer made &quot;in process&quot;.  That may not be a bad idea for the first time you try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-16T11:37:30.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="885" CreationDate="2010-01-17T05:22:24.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a coffee stout a few months ago. I ended up using about 500 grams, and soaking it in the wort right after the boil for something  like half an hour. I ended up just using decaf for most of it (70% decaf, 30% regular espresso ground) because that was what I had on hand. I think it was Starbucks, actually -- a gift from a friend leaving Korea, where I live and where decaf isn't as common. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ground it very fine, like espresso grind, and that worked well, but if you're not planning on a secondary fermentation I'd go with a coarser grind as a certain amount of coffee grounds came through the hop bag (as expected) and settled into the bottom of the bucket. By the way it really did a number on my hop bag, staining it and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, when I tried the beer after a longish secondary and a few weeks of bottle-conditioning, it was horrible, as if someone had dumped pure over-boiled coffee into a bottle of stout. I mean HORRIBLE!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that third week worked some kind of magic on it, and the coffee flavor mellowed amazingly well, so that the final product was actually really satisying. Everyone who's tried it has really liked it, and now while I'm abroad on holiday I wish I'd brought a couple more bottles of the stuff with me! That said, I suspect having a few bottles of the coffee stout in a row might be a bit too much: it's a bit like a dessert wine in that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think next time I'll probably try the cold infusion method, as it'll eliminate the overpowering bitterness and coffee flavoring that originally was so objectionable, and will probably allow for a greater subtlety after mellowing. But I think I'll do the cold infusion with a much bigger amount of water than some recommend. That, or I'll buy some Dutch cold-drip coffee from this place down the road, and mix that into the wort. That stuff is strong (yet mellow) enough to make up for being a smaller amount mixed into a bigger wort, I think. (And I think if I were doing all-grain, it could probably stand to be boiled like the rest of the wort without any weird effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the finer the grind, the better the extraction is, but if you're putting the coffee right into the wort I'd definitely plan on a secondary fermentation for clearing and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="gordsellar" LastEditorDisplayName="gordsellar" LastEditDate="2010-01-17T05:37:00.907" LastActivityDate="2010-01-17T05:37:00.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="885" CreationDate="2010-01-17T15:02:10.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make up a pot of coffee or two and put it in at bottling time.  Two regular strength pots gives my coffee stout a very noticeable flavor.  I put one pot in the last time I made the beer and it was a little weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the burnt flavors depend on the kind of coffee you use.  Try using a lighter roast.  My coffee stout does not have burnt off-flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastActivityDate="2010-01-17T15:02:10.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-17T20:15:48.177" Score="16" ViewCount="1859" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any risk of wort infection by not sanitizing hops before dry hopping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:11:52.093" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:11:52.093" Title="Sanitation &amp; Dry Hopping" Tags="|beer|hops|boil|sanitation|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1238" CreationDate="2010-01-17T21:39:36.190" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an infection risk any time you open up your fermenter and especially when you throw stuff into it.  If you dry hop at the right time you reduce that risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The alcohol built up protects against infection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hops already in the beer act as a preservative&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pH is unfriendly to new growth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of the easy to eat sugars are already consumed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these reasons, it is important to dry hop late in the fermentation.  You need to allow alcohol and carbon dioxide to build up in solution to fight off invaders.  Listen to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/Brew-Strong-12-08-08-Dry-Hopping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dec 8, 2008 episode&lt;/a&gt; of Brew Strong for techniques and technicalities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same rules apply to many other fermentation additions.  Other herbs and chips can be thrown right in.  The more surface area the addition has - the more nooks &amp;amp; crannies - the larger risk of infection because there are more places for baddies to hide.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/940/sanitizing-oak-chips/946#946&quot;&gt;I recommend&lt;/a&gt; soaking wood chips in alcohol of some sort, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T15:33:06.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1240" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-17T23:40:21.447" Score="12" ViewCount="5232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently broke my 6.1 gallon glass carboy that I used for primary fermentation.  I need to buy a new one, and I'm considering a &quot;Better Bottle&quot; carboy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its claims include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Unbreakable and tough&#xA;**Taste and odor-free&#xA;**Virtually impermeable to oxygen&#xA;**Clear, colorless, and incredibly light weight&#xA;** non-absorbing, non-porous, and non-wetting (hydrophobic), so it does not carry over flavors from one batch of wine or beer to the next. And it is easy to clean and sanitize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any downside to using a Better Bottle?  Has anyone run into problems with oxygen leakage or bigger temperature fluctuations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-01-18T19:22:24.537" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T15:36:46.247" Title="Glass Carboy vs. Better Bottle" Tags="|fermentation|equipment|better-bottle|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1240" CreationDate="2010-01-18T02:41:17.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The PET plastic used for the better bottle has a low oxygen permeability rate but not zero like glass.The question becomes whether 'spoilage' due to presence of oxygen is perceptible or not? The answer probably depends on what your brewing and how long the brew stays in the carboy. I am thinking lagers may be more sensitive to the influence of oxygen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other side glass is fragile where PET is not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Tropical" LastActivityDate="2010-01-18T02:41:17.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2010-01-18T05:01:08.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I compost them.  We have clay soil here, so I've found they really help loosen it up.  The key is to make sure to put a few shovel loads of dirt on top of them -- just like you do for kitchen scraps, etc -- so that critters don't get to them.  Ants also like the leftover sugar.  But if you get your compost right, the grains really help it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Juanote" LastActivityDate="2010-01-18T05:01:08.243" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-18T05:01:08.243" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2010-01-18T05:17:37.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like a heavier toast than the french oak chips my local brew store sells, so I soak them in Chardonnay (for IPAs) for a couple of weeks and then toast them dry in the oven (10-15 minutes at 350º or so).  The Chardonnay might not have enough alcohol to fully sanitize them, but it adds a great subtle flavor to oak-aged IPAs.  350º is hotter than a wort boil, and it seems to do the trick.  I've not had any probs, but my beers are all pretty high-octane so the alcohol that's present in secondary helps keep things clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to watch them closely in the oven though-- you don't want them to get too toasted and it's probably also some kind of fire hazard :)  -- Makes your house smell really good though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-01-18T05:17:37.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1011" CreationDate="2010-01-18T05:25:49.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jordan's exactly right.  I make some wine at a commercial winery, and that's exactly how we treat our used barrels at the winery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use any cleaning solutions like sodium percarbonate, you need to make sure to follow it up with a citric acid soaking.  The citric will neutralize any remaining sanitizer and keep it out of your beer or wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can store a barrel dry if you burn SO2 in it first and then keep the bung in, but make sure to give the barrel a good soak with the cleaning solution and a followup soak with citric acid before you put beer into it.  You'll also want to swell it up before you put anything important in it because they loosen up when they dry out, which will cause them to leak.  Filling it up and letting it rest full for a day will effectively swell it up and stop the leaking, in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-01-18T05:25:49.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="906" CreationDate="2010-01-18T05:58:57.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love Simcoe.  But I love IPAs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-01-18T05:58:57.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="780" CreationDate="2010-01-18T06:05:41.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about this, but I've been operating for a long time under the impression that unwanted banana (estery) aromas in general are a sign that the yeast was stressed-- either due to a hot fermentation, lack of oxygen or just plain having to work too hard.  By the latter, I mean that perhaps you didn't use enough yeast for either the volume of beer or the gravity.  This would play into your situation, being that your beer was an Imperial Stout and was likely rocking a pretty high gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, some yeasts just put off that kind of aroma.  The recommendation of using a neutral yeast strain is a good one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-01-18T06:05:41.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1240" CreationDate="2010-01-18T12:37:36.010" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom of a BetterBottle can flex.  So, if it's full of beer and has an airlock in your cork and you pick it up by the neck, the weight of the liquid in the bottle will flex the bottom down a little.  This causes the airlock to suck some air (and/or the liquid in your airlock) back into the bottle.  Using a carboy buddy alleviates this.  If the liquid in your airlock is sanitary (like vodka) then no huge worries.  If it's plain water, you risk an infection.  If it's Bleach water, you risk ruining the beer.  Having said all of that, I use both glass and BetterBottle and haven't noticed a real difference.  And having that lighter, &quot;won't break when I slam it into the edge of the sink trying to clean it because it slipped&quot; BetterBottle sure is nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="452" LastActivityDate="2010-01-18T12:37:36.010" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2010-01-18T14:57:08.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are going to make the dog biscuits, you do need to dry them out.  If you don't they get moldy in a few days.  I put mine in the convection oven at 220 for 8 hours, you have to break a biscuit every few hours to make sure there is no more moisture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Hdog" LastActivityDate="2010-01-18T14:57:08.677" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-18T14:57:08.677" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-18T16:02:18.890" Score="2" ViewCount="2087" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What techniques do you use to condition malt? (AKA wet crush)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Malt%5FConditioning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Malt Conditioning&lt;/a&gt; is adding a small amount of moisture to grain before the crush.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Main%5FPage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HomebrewTalk Wiki&lt;/a&gt; recommends raising the moisture content by 2%, or 100ml of water per 5kg of grain.  What techniques and equipment do you employ to condition grain before the crush?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The squirt bottle technique sounds a little laborious and error prone. I'd like something more sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;February 4, 2010 episode&lt;/a&gt; of Basic Brewing Radio is about Malt Conditioning. Gonna go have a listen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-03T21:07:10.740" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T20:28:16.427" Title="Wet Crushing Grain" Tags="|all-grain|crush|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1229" CreationDate="2010-01-18T16:49:58.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;h3&gt;What temp guidlines apply to doing a yeast starter?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Yeast%5FStarters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yeast Starters&lt;/a&gt; are used to boost the starting population of yeast before pitching it into the wort.  This is best accomplished by creating an ideal environment for the yeast to bud, rather than simulating the wort into which you will pitch.  Keep the starting wort gravity around 1.040, don't add hops, aerate well and ferment warm.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/Brew-Strong-12-22-08-Yeast-Starters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;December 22nd, 2008 episode&lt;/a&gt; of Brew Strong a good resource&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Should the starter be at the intended fermentation temp?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily. For ales, target the ideal temperature for the yeast as advertised by the supplier.  For lagers, somewhere in the 70's F is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Should it be higher for good growth/activity?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is reasonable, but do not go above the ideal temperature range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Should it be lower to keep it clean flavored?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The volume of yeast slurry you pitch will probably not impact the beer's flavor.  If you are making a delicate style such as pilsner or kölsch you can allow the starter to settle and decant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-18T16:49:58.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1263" CreationDate="2010-01-18T18:16:10.663" Score="7" ViewCount="6194" Body="&lt;p&gt;After adding priming sugar and bottling a lager, does the temperature need to be raised (if so, for how long) to ensure carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="456" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-12-13T18:10:37.260" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T18:10:37.260" Title="Lager bottle conditioning temperature" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|temperature|lager|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1238" CreationDate="2010-01-18T18:31:16.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've put hops for dry-hopping into a sterilized mesh bag (note* the bag was boiled in a pot of water and cooled with lid on to RT before adding the hops).  I then squirt the outside of the bag with a squirt-bottle filled with grain alcohol.  This kept things sterile and allowed for hop infusion without messy hop bits ending up in the final beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="456" LastEditorUserId="456" LastEditDate="2010-01-28T21:01:25.803" LastActivityDate="2010-01-28T21:01:25.803" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1196" CreationDate="2010-01-18T18:48:42.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not come across any literature that encourages saturating your wort with more air than it is already exposed to during the brewing process.  The increase presence of oxygen before your boil will cause lipid oxidation and this will affect the flavor stability of your ale or lager.   With that being said, brewing is an art, and it seems we can never maximize one aspect of an operation to its full potential without compromising something else.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During milling, if you rely on a finer ground malt to increase your extraction of fermentable sugars, you will get more alcohol, but you will also increase the surface area of your mash and risk exposing the wort produced.  If you stir continuously throughout a mash in an open tun or allow your bed to run dry during sparging, cloudier wort will be the result.  Brewers disagree over whether clean or dirtier wort is better for fermentation, so this could be incredibly important to you or not.  Oxidation risks are also increased depending on the raw materials you use.  Rice adjuncts are going to be a lot less prone to LOX formation than corn, but can you afford the increased costs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During mashing 15% of your malt lipids will become oxidized naturally, every thing I have ever read stresses that this percentage should be kept to a minimum, but since oxidation occurs no matter what you do, I can see where contrary evidence could come from.  The most extensive overview I have found is Brewing Chemistry and Technology in the Americas.  This book includes a fish scale diagram that will keep you cross-eyed for days, but once you are finished reading, it makes for a very useful door jam or nifty paper weight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="372" LastActivityDate="2010-01-18T18:48:42.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1250" CreationDate="2010-01-18T18:59:42.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steeping your grain for 15-30 minutes at 30-50 degrees Celsius will raise the overall moisture by 30%.  The corns are squeezed out of their husks when they are milled wet. The idea is that the husks remain in tact, and create a more porous bed for single infusion mash tun systems.  The problem with this technique is that under-modified “hard ends” are not ground up and this can result in as much as 3% in loss of extract.  Wet mills haven’t been made since the 1970’s and I think they are only in production at the Steinecker brewhouses nowadays.  I really don’t know where else you would find more information about this except from the text book Malts and Malting by Dennis E. Briggs as it has become more of an academically known process and not one used within the industry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="372" LastActivityDate="2010-01-18T18:59:42.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1199" CreationDate="2010-01-18T20:44:57.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Beer Calculus&quot; is great. &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This calculator has an EXTENSIVE selection of malt/fermentation (preloaded OG/FG and color based on sugars), hops (with typical AA %), yeast strains (ale/lager, dry/liquid, and flocculation level), and boils/primary/secondary add-ins (lots of them!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great calculator where you can select target beer styles or make your own style by helping you gauge sweet/bitter, color, alcohol, and make a shopping list!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This is not a reverse calculator, but does allow selection from many sugars/fermentables.  From there you can see what else you would need to buy/add to tailor to your liking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="456" LastEditorUserId="456" LastEditDate="2010-01-18T20:52:52.977" LastActivityDate="2010-01-18T20:52:52.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2486" CreationDate="2010-01-19T03:22:36.447" Score="4" ViewCount="1599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been hearing about Nelson Sauvin hops for awhile now, and have read in other forums about people procuring some and using them... but I haven't been able to find them anywhere.  All my usual suspects don't stock them.  Anyone know where I can get these without flying over to New Zealand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T01:39:43.973" Title="Where can I find some Nelson Sauvin hops?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1254" CreationDate="2010-01-19T03:30:26.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my limited experience, raising the temperature of a lager when it is in the bottle is not necessary for carbonation.  If the bottles are kept cold, they should still carbonate but it will happen at a much slower rate than if the temperature is raised.   Depending on a number of factors, leaving the bottles in a warm environment may actually induce off flavors in your beer.   I typically keep my bottles at ~60 degrees farenheit for short term storage (~3-6 months).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastActivityDate="2010-01-19T03:30:26.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1217" CreationDate="2010-01-19T03:42:56.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This way was suggested to me on a brewers guild mailing list I subscribe to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you need to have a stir plate and a flask.  the flask really can be anything as long as it has a small mouth to it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;put a smack-pack or vial of liquid yeast with two cups of water and 1/3 cup of dry malt extract. allow it to sit and stir for 24 hours and you'll see up to a 5x increase in cell count.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;like I said at the beginning,  this isn't my created way but one that was suggested to me. In my experience it works remarkably well.  I'd strongly suggest it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastActivityDate="2010-01-19T03:42:56.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1259" CreationDate="2010-01-19T10:38:42.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hop &amp;amp; Grape in the UK have some listed on their website - &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/8LWW4r&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/8LWW4r&lt;/a&gt; Their website makes it look like they ship internationally if you're not based in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="696" LastEditDate="2010-01-20T00:30:45.937" LastActivityDate="2010-01-20T00:30:45.937" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1254" CreationDate="2010-01-19T13:24:05.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbonate the bottles at 60-70F like ales is fine.  There is so little fermentation going on you have very little &quot;non-lager&quot; character contributions from the yeast carbonating at that temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When worrying about the temperature remember that many brewers routinely ramp up the temp for a couple days to perform a diacetyl rest and that temp bump doesn't harm the beer.&#xA;So carbing in the bottle at 60-70F is better than waiting 3X longer for them to carb up at 40F in your lagering space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-19T13:24:05.273" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1240" CreationDate="2010-01-19T14:10:55.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Admittedly, I've only been brewing for six months, but I've only been using glass and I'm not sure why I'd switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That five gallon carboy can be damn heavy, but never completely unruly! If I was really worried, I could always go buy one of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewers.com/product/5164/Burgundy_Carboy_Handle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewers.com/product/5164/Burgundy_Carboy_Handle.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastActivityDate="2010-01-19T14:10:55.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1268" CreationDate="2010-01-19T15:43:11.987" Score="5" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it worth using? I was thinking of getting one to use on my first fermenter for a german weissbier so that the yeast flavour and aroma is more present in the final result. By how many degrees does the belt change the temperature? Are there belts that the temperature can be regulated according to the needs? Do they produce a better result than other forms of heating or do other problems appear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:47:55.337" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T12:47:55.337" Title="Fermenter Heating Belt" Tags="|fermenter|yeast|flavor|fermentation-temperature|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1240" CreationDate="2010-01-19T16:35:22.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just had a discussion on this with the brew store owner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is, it will scratch on the inside overtime and will need replaced within a few years (give or take depending on how much you brew). The store owner has to replace his Better Bottles about every two years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, do you want to pay more now for glass, or pay more later to replace your Better Bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you buy glass and it breaks you pay more now and pay more later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I see it, six in one and a half dozen in the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Mike" LastActivityDate="2010-01-19T16:35:22.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1046" CreationDate="2010-01-20T00:52:38.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a rye brown with 3-year old grain that I was given. I just wanted to experiment and see what would happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer came out pretty well. I got good attenuation and it tasted and smelled fine. The weird part was that is was extremely cloudy. It looked like a milk shake. I've never had a beer turn out that cloudy. That may have to do with the proteins or something, but I'm not that advanced into chemistry to know for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, the end result was ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="461" LastActivityDate="2010-01-20T00:52:38.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1265" CreationDate="2010-01-20T12:30:49.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a brew belt off and on for several years.  There is no real way to control it.&#xA;I suppose if you had a thermowell and a temp controller you could dial it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it only really heats to so much over ambient temp.  It doesn't have a built in theermostat to stop at say 70F.  I used to get a good 70F ferment with it when the ambient temp was 55-60F.  So you'll need to put it some place cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results are fine, but you have to check it and make sure the place you put it is cool enough to keep it from overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, the manufacturer of my brew belt warned against using it on glass.  The band of heat on the glass can weaken the glass as the cooler glass around it fails to heat up as fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brew belts are cheap and easy tools.  You just have to experiment with them a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-20T12:30:49.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1240" CreationDate="2010-01-20T13:44:02.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been switching over to Better Bottle for a few reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it's they're a lot lighter. I cart mine up and down the stairs and the extra weight of the glass is noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, safety. I've heard enough horror stories about dropping the glass that I'm not willing to risk it anymore, since the Better Bottle is a good alternative. Sure, most people don't drop their carboy. I just don't feel the need to risk it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, I bought the ported Better Bottles with spigots. That means I don't have to use a racking cane to move my wort/beer around anymore; instead I simply open the valve. It has an internal spout that you can rotate away from the trub, so I don't pick up anything that settles to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, I feel the Better Bottle is a great alternative to the glass carboy. It can be cheaper (unless you get the ported bottle + accessories like I did) and I have not found then to produce any adverse effects on my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have kept my glass, and I'll likely use them if I'm aging a beer for a long time, but even then, I'm not really worried about the oxygen permeability. Again, I haven't found any adverse effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One not about scratching: I have never scratched a better bottle, but you WILL scratch it if you use any sort of brush. To clean the trub you can soak it with your cleaner of choice. Again, I've never had any troubles cleaning, and I've never scratched it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-01-20T13:44:02.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1274" CreationDate="2010-01-20T18:51:59.740" Score="11" ViewCount="1718" Body="&lt;p&gt;For all grain brewers, what part of the brew session lends itself best to shortening the total brew session.  Time is tight for me these days and shortening up the brew session a bit will certainly keep my wife and family happy.  A happy family means more brew sessions in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a more powerful burner the answer to shortening the ramping time of getting a kettle to boil?&#xA;Ultra-efficient chilling devices to cut time off the chill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-01-20T21:18:06.717" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T15:01:25.950" Title="Shorter Brew Day" Tags="|techniques|efficiency|all-grain|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1283" CreationDate="2010-01-20T19:02:18.923" Score="5" ViewCount="1589" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits of completely seperating hot debris, hot break and cold break from the wort?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting these things out of the wort and putting nothing but clean and clear wort in the fermentor has a rewarding feel to it, but achieving that nirvana can be somewhat challenging depending upon one's equipment (and patience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the resultant beer improve when there is no hop debris?&#xA;Is the beer clearer after removing break material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before someone considers taking this extra step in their process, we should know what improvements should be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:46:28.320" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T20:50:55.190" Title="Cleaner wort out of the Kettle" Tags="|wort|kettle|fermenter|trub|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="814" CreationDate="2010-01-20T19:31:51.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to keep all more stored beer in boxes to protect from light.&#xA;The beers are kept at cellar temps, close to the floor.  This keeps them as cool as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-20T19:31:51.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1270" CreationDate="2010-01-20T21:17:03.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's look at the different steps, and see where the times goes, and how to make it shorter. I've found that overlapping steps when possible is the best way to save time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Setup&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all your equipment is ready to go, this takes 10 minutes. I have a box of all my gadgets. So I have to grab the kettles, burner, etc., and I'm good to go. Keeping equipment in easy reach keeps this step quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Bringing mash water to boil&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where the big burner comes in handy for sure. I can boil 7-8 gallons of water in a few minutes (10-15) on my propane burner. If you only have a stove, splitting the water into smaller kettles and using more than one burner will make this faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cooling to desired temp&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just wait. This is probably a step I could make faster by using my chiller.. But I just wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Mashing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's any way to make this step faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Bringing sparge water to boil&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you do this while you're mashing, it doesn't increase the length of your day at all. I like to get the water boiling, and let it cool, just in time for when I need to sparge. Timing is important there. Sometimes I'll put the pot on the stove on low, to maintain the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cooling to desired temp&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Sparging&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I honestly don't think I've been sparging correctly, but see &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/923/how-do-you-sparge&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; for more info on various methods of sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Boiling off excess liquid (if necessary)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is necessary, go ahead and start your boil while you're sparging. This saves a lot of time. Also, a harder boil evaporates water faster, so turn up that burner. Just make sure you don't burn the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The boil&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't really speed this step up. Good time to do other things though. Like clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cooling&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wort chiller is necessary. Letting 5 gallons of boiling wort cool on its own takes all night. Get an immersion chiller or a counter-flow plate chiller. An ice bath works, but the chillers with shave minutes to hours off your day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Transfer to fermenter&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice makes perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cleanup&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to cleanup as you go. If you can clean everything while the wort chills, you'll have 20 minutes left afterward to finish up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T15:47:58.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1270" CreationDate="2010-01-20T22:21:43.017" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The few techniques I use to speed things along are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setup the night before.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start early - there is nothing worse than cleaning boil kettles and mash-tuns at midnight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you need to pre-boil your water to remove chlorine and/or carbonates, do it the night before.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start heating the wort in your kettle as soon as you have a gallon or so collected, by the time you have the collected the full amount it will almost be boiling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a shroud on your boil kettle to protect the burner from cross-drafts and channel the heat up the side of the vessel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a counterflow or plate chiller.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the hot output from the chiller to wash out your mash-tun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get the biggest sink you can find and install it in your basement/garage. Cleanup is the least fun part of brewing so anything to make it easier is worth it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't drink too many beers before the first hop addition to the boil, everything gets easier after that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-01-20T22:21:43.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1270" CreationDate="2010-01-21T03:19:57.580" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a few &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2009/04/14/brew-in-a-bag-biab-all-grain-beer-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;brew-in-a-bag&lt;/a&gt; sessions. That &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; shortens up your brewday. Read up about the other Aussie brewing sensation: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/06/06/australian-no-chill-brewing-technique-tested/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;no-chill&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical BIAB session is about four hours, cut down from a normal all-grain brewday of 7-8.  Do the no-chill method and you cut another half an hour off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-21T03:19:57.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1112" CreationDate="2010-01-21T03:37:45.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roast the nibs to bring out their flavor then use them in the secondary.  Roast like you would coffee or in a heavy skillet over medium heat until fragrant and flavorful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-21T03:37:45.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1277" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-21T10:39:16.493" Score="14" ViewCount="11035" Body="&lt;p&gt;When do you start your secondary fermentation? Some people wait until the bubbles of the wort stop completely, others leave the wort in the fist fermenter for 3-4 days and then move on to secondary fermentation, regardless of what the bubbles do. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T12:48:09.807" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T09:08:57.307" Title="Early vs Late secondary fermentation" Tags="|beer|fermentation|secondary|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1277" CreationDate="2010-01-21T13:09:37.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wait until a day after the krausen has fallen back into the beer.  You shouldn't leave it in the primary for more than 2 weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PRO&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking to a secondary can clean up a beer, and allow you time to condition the beer in bulk before bottling or kegging.  It also will seperate the floculated yeast and trub giving you a cleaner beer in the end.  You are also not rushed to bottle or keg it, since you can leave it in the secondary for a long time if you are busy.  This also frees up your larger carboys for primary fermenting new beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CON&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increased risk of contamination durring racking.  Make sure everything is sanitized.  Increased contact with oxygen is also detrimental.  I have a spare CO2 tank, that I purge my secondary with. This is not really neccessary, I just take comfort in it. You also need additional equipment, another carboy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CON of not Racking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't rack to a secondary you will probably get additional gunk in your bottles/kegs.  If you don't rack to a secondary, after two or more weeks autolysis can occur and you will get some really funky (not the good funk) flavors.  I have only tried this once, and noticed that the flavor was not very desirable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have sucessfully done this over a hundred times, and if the beer wasn't already contaminated then I have never had a problem. Hopped, Low pH, alcoholic liquid is pretty inhospitable environment for bugs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see John Palmers opinion.  The best beer is Racked to a secondary, if the pros do it, so do I.  Why be lazy when it's an easy step.  Additionally if you use a smaller carboy for your secondary, with a small head space, the disolved C02 in the beer will be forced out durring racking, and force the much of the oxygen out, reducing contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-2-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-2-3.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-5.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-4.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastEditorUserId="368" LastEditDate="2010-01-21T19:57:17.890" LastActivityDate="2010-01-21T19:57:17.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1277" CreationDate="2010-01-21T13:23:57.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't rack to secondary unless I'm adding something (fruit, hops, spices) or aging (barleywine, etc). The risk of introducing bacteria is too great for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most of my beer I leave the beer in the primary for 2 weeks which clears up the beer as much as I need. But, for those beers that need extra time to clarify I leave the beer in there longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you can definitely leave your beer on the yeast cake for longer than 2 weeks, and I'm not alone. I stopped racking to secondary when I started listening to Jamil Zainasheff on &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Strong&lt;/a&gt;. He claims the 2 week autolysis is a myth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-01-21T13:23:57.913" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1231" CreationDate="2010-01-21T13:45:11.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're both good dual purpose hops. The Centennial has a lower AA% at 9-12, versus Columbus 14-16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet is to brew two identical beers, one using only Centennial and one using only Columbus, then do a triangle test to decide which you like best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com/columbus-hops/423&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Short Columbus Overview&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com/centennial-hops/422&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Short Centennial Overview&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Triangle test: someone puts two of one beer and one of the other in front of you without you knowing which is which. Your job is to try and pick out the one that's different. If you can't, pick whichever hop is cheaper. If you can, pick whichever hop tastes best to you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-01-21T13:45:11.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1277" CreationDate="2010-01-21T13:45:42.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Read the answers to this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/866/whats-the-difference-between-primary-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s the difference between primary &amp;amp; secondary fermentation?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am an advocate of &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; racking to secondary. To answer your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Advantages&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(of not racking)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduced risk of infection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't need as many vessels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More time for trub to settle (racking can disturb the trub if you have to move your fermenter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Disadvantages&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Risk of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Autolysis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;autolysis&lt;/a&gt; (low IMO)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't get to &quot;play&quot; with your beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bonus&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not rack to secondary and still get very clear beer.  After kegging I cool the beer to the low 30's F for a week or so to brighten. Crash cooling drops a lot of protein out of suspension.  The first pull is pretty goopy, but the rest of the keg is pretty clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro brewers do this in a separate tank called a brite tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bottle you can get the same effect by racking to your bottling bucket, sealing that up and crash cooling it for a week in the bucket.  Be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; careful moving it, or bottle straight out of the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T15:48:14.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-21T13:57:27.073" Score="7" ViewCount="2026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed a simple base ale recipe. It's fermenting happily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to add Chile Peppers to the beer to make a spiced ale. I'm not looking for something with a lot of heat, but I do want some flavor in the back of my mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is to buy 5-10 dried peppers, freeze them to break down the cells, then put them in the secondary, sampling it until it tastes right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, has anyone made a beer like this, and can give me an idea of what kind of peppers I could use. I'm planning to use at least Chipotle, to get a slight smoked flavor in addition to the spice. Should I try something else? Have you found good flavor from a different pepper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, how many peppers should I use? I'm currently planning on 5 medium sized peppers, one per gallon, but do you think that will take too long? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T22:23:00.367" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T17:31:03.907" Title="Chile Pepper Ale" Tags="|recipe|ingredients|secondary|chili|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1271" CreationDate="2010-01-21T14:38:11.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removing hot break is beneficial to your finished beer.  Many of the compounds taste bad and can stay in suspension through fermentation to packaging. Totally removing hot &amp;amp; cold break, such as with a pre-fermenter filter, can damage head retention. You need some of those proteins.  Brewing Techniques has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue1.4/barchet.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;good article&lt;/a&gt; on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few methods of removing trub &amp;amp; break from your wort. You should weigh your time &amp;amp; effort against the benefits of each method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Skimming&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the boil coagulated gums and proteins rise to the top in the first five minutes.  Many homebrewers skim these off.  Most pro brewers do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Kettle Screen&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a coarse filter on the exit of your filter catches much of the hop material. I used a copper scrubbie on the tip of my racking cane and now have a stainless screen and bottom port on my kettle. This is an easy, mostly effective, way to leave break behind.  Some pro &amp;amp; home brewers use this technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Whirlpool&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At flame-out you create a whirlpool in the kettle (or other vessel). This piles the hop debris and hot break in the center of the vessel, allowing you to leave it behind by transferring from the side.  Some homebrewers do it. Most pro brewers do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems this is the best way to leave hot break behind. It is easy to do - especially with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;whirlpool chiller&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;strong&gt;my&lt;/strong&gt; next piece of equipment to build).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hopback&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Hopback&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hopback&lt;/a&gt; is a chamber between the kettle and chiller. You fill it with hops and pass the hot wort through it to pick up aroma compounds that the boil would normally drive off.  While not appropriate for most styles of beer, it is an effective filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Coolship&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a long, wide, shallow open stainless or copper vessel. Hot wort rests in such a vessel for 1-3 hours to cool and settle. It is an old German technique, very prone to introducing infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Post-Fermentation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find I can get clear beer by cold-conditioning my beer post-fermentation.  Leaving the beer in the fermenter for longer is a tried and true method of clearing your beer.  Here's a pic of my Classic American Pilsner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KUgnS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My CAP &amp;amp; Lone Star&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My CAP is on the left, Lone Star is on the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-01-01T20:50:55.190" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T20:50:55.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1277" CreationDate="2010-01-21T15:58:30.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to completely ferment out in primary before moving my beer to 'secondary'.  I ferment in primary for 14-21 days almost always.  I crash cool the primary for the final 5-7 days of that total primary time.  Then I rack to keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think most people can agree that a secondary ferment is not a ferment, its just another conditioning step in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minus the cooling step, people who put beer in kegs out of primary (myself included), or probrewers using a bright tank are doing the same thing as &quot;using a secondary&quot;; putting fermented beer in another container to sit for a while.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;So while many of us say we don't secondary, we all do somewhat the same post primary conditioning step but using a second vessel to condition the beer or clear the beer.  Its just that in the case of keggers we can serve out of the same vessle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In reality, I have an extra corny keg that I have trimmed the dip tube off about 3 inches.  I use that keg as my &quot;bright beer tank&quot;.  Then use a jumper set up to push the beeer to a serving keg after that)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-01-22T12:33:56.157" LastActivityDate="2010-01-22T12:33:56.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1282" CreationDate="2010-01-21T16:09:34.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are on the right track with tasting the brew regularly.  I'd suggest actually doing the experiment in a one gallon jug.  Wait to see how long it takes to get the pepper taste you are looking for.  Then scale up the number of peppers to the full 4 gallons remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way you'll get a little more control over the final product and potentially not lose an entire 5 gallons off beer at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chipotle is probably a good choice.  I'd maybe think of a blend of 2-3 chilis with slightly differnt characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic Brewing Radio did a real nice peice with chilis a while back.  Starting there would be a good place to look for different chilis and their profile in the beer.  The episode was called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=video&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chili Beer Experiment&lt;/a&gt;.  Scroll down until you find the Sept 30, 2009 episode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-21T16:09:34.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1282" CreationDate="2010-01-21T18:28:54.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steph Weber is actually posting an article on that tomorrow on the Hopress on Ratebeer.  Check it out tomorrow morning to see how we do it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We add frozen and dried peppers to the end of the boil, and add an additional pepper tea to the secondary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the article here &lt;a href=&quot;http://stephweber.hoppress.com/2010/01/22/chile-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://stephweber.hoppress.com/2010/01/22/chile-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastEditorUserId="368" LastEditDate="2010-01-22T17:10:18.417" LastActivityDate="2010-01-22T17:10:18.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1295" CreationDate="2010-01-22T12:47:01.090" Score="4" ViewCount="1081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had been thinking about using a couple corny kegs as fermentors.  Maybe even trimming up some dip tubes to be able to CO2 push finished beer out of the kegs to clean serving kegs.&#xA;Here are some of the things I am concerned about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using the standard gas out port for my airlock set up (tubing and a water jug), may have more restriction than I am used to.  A source of regular clogging perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The corny keg only holds about 5.25 gallons.  This almost ensures the need to blow off every time, and as stated in part 1 cleaning that narrow a diameter tubing would be a pain each time.  The fix would be 4 gallon batchs.  I nice idead for experimenting with recipes, but my mash tun and boil kettle are all somewhat optimized for 10 gallon brew sessions.  Do I really want to ferment in two kegs for each batch?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The stainless keg is a superior container for sure.  Light, easy to move, relatively indestructable.  But I'd be competing for keg fermentor space all the time vs. keg serving space.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermenting in Corny kegs just doesn't seem to have a enough plus sides.  Am I missing any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:45:28.587" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T16:41:09.847" Title="Corny keg fermentors" Tags="|fermenter|fermentation|corny-keg|keg|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1289" CreationDate="2010-01-22T13:01:59.597" Score="5" ViewCount="1312" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic or Glass fermentors?  (Lets keep stainless steel out of this debate for now)&#xA;Each has ups and downs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are the main differences for the following aspects:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shapes and configurations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat transfer and stability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxygen permeability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clarity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of cleaning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resistance to cleaning method/products&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Popularity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BEER QUALITY!!!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1558" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T18:22:54.097" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T18:22:54.097" Title="Plastic or Glass" Tags="|fermenter|equipment|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1288" CreationDate="2010-01-22T13:26:45.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shapes and Sizes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Buckets and Carboys for Glass is available.  You can also get plastic conical type fermentors.  For total variety, plastic wins here.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Heat Transfer and Stability:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Glass is slightly quicker to give up and take heat than a plastic walled vessle.  However, glass doesn't always like rapid changes in temperature and can break as a result.  Depending on the thickness of the plastic being used, heat stability would likely be higher in plastic.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Oxygen Permeability:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Glass has zero pass through of O2.  Most plastic food grade HDPE buckets do allow some O2 transfer.  The better bottle which is PET has a much lower rating to O2 transfer across the wall however.  But how much is too much still leaves this question unanswered I think.  With most primary ferments being 3 weeks or less, its probably a non-issue.  However if you wanted to do a year long primary for something like a Flanders or a lambic... Glass would be your best choice here.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Weight:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Platic wins here when comparing vessels volume against volume usually.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Clarity:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Non-colored glass is probably superior to even the Better Bottle.  But all things being equal, this is a tie likely.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Ease of Cleaning:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;For physically cleaning it out with your hands, I haven't seen to many glass buckets around, so plastic buckets win out here.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Resistance to cleaning method/products:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Even though you can reach into a bucket and scrape it out with a chisle if you so desire, its not recommended to scratch up plastic.  And it will scratch easily.   So if yo were going to use a normal cleaner like PBW the two materials probablt tie.  But if you wanted to used some sort of professional grade caustic... glass would win depending on its concentration.  At least glass eliminates the worries of plasticizers leaching out of the bucket during a good soak with said cleaner.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Popularity:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Likely a tie here too.  Many starting brewers use buckets and make great beer for a long time.  I haven't seen any hard data that mentions how many people switch to glass carboys, but I think the better bottle has stolen some of those stats back to plastic.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Beer Quality:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In the end isn't this all that matters.  The only comment I have here is that when the AHA posts its National Homebrew Competition winners they often have fermentor type listed in with the winning recipes.  I have never seen someone say they used plastic.  Either they don't want to admit it or year after year people win in part because of glass (that's a big leap in assumptions though.)  This may speak to popularity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a short piece from my blog on this topic: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com/plastic-or-glass-homebrew-fermentor/341&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Plastic or Glass for Competition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-22T13:26:45.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1294" CreationDate="2010-01-22T13:31:53.140" Score="6" ViewCount="3208" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you really need a sprinkler of some sort to sparge?&#xA;Does it really improve the lautering process?&#xA;How fancy does a sparge arm need to be, does it really have to rotate or can it just sprinkle all over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the cons of just having a piece of tubing adding sparge water to a 1-2 inch bed of water above the grains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-23T02:32:36.353" Title="Are Sparge Arms Necessary" Tags="|techniques|sparge|wort|all-grain|efficiency|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1292" CreationDate="2010-01-22T13:37:14.310" Score="8" ViewCount="2263" Body="&lt;p&gt;How fast does beer skunk, in the bottle or out?&#xA;I have heard people claim their IPA gets skunky in the glass as they drink it on the sunny patio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also left a sixer of beer on a shelf on my porch in the shade after shopping say, only to come back later to grab it and the shifting sun/shadows is now shining on the beer.&#xA;How fast does that process take to skunk beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's peoples experience with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-26T22:33:14.803" LastActivityDate="2010-02-10T16:21:42.460" Title="Skunking beer process" Tags="|skunk|flavor|storage|packaging|spoilage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1291" CreationDate="2010-01-22T14:10:13.657" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;em&gt;it depends&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=basic-brewing-radio-2008&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;April 10th, 2008 episode&lt;/a&gt; of Basic Brewing Radio is all about glass and skunking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How Fast?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unprotected beer will rapidly skunk.  I had a keg of blonde ale in the sun one summer afternoon. The beer in the three feet of tubing spoiled in less than a minute. The small volume of skunky beer was strong enough to ruin an entire pint.  It was a light beer unprotected from the sun.  Dark beer in brown bottles are fairly well protected from skunking wavelengths and will spoil more slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Background&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skunking is caused by a wavelength of light (350–520 nm &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/14-bottling/701-glass-colors-blow-off-method-mr-wizard&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BYO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;) emitted by the sun and florescent lights. Incandescent lights do not produce light in that range.  The more light of these wavelengths that strikes your beer the quicker skunking reactions occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colored bottles absorb &amp;amp; reflect wavelengths of light &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color#Color%5Fof%5Fobjects&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;. Green &amp;amp; blue bottles do not absorb the whole range of skunking light making them inferior protectors.  Brown bottles absorb the high frequency wavelengths and are pigmented with iron oxides. These various forms of iron absorb UV light over a wide spectrum of wavelengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like bottles, beer also absorb light. Dark brown beers afford a stronger barrier protecting the liquid further inside the bottle.  Light beers, like IPAs, are more susceptible to skunking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-10T16:21:42.460" LastActivityDate="2010-02-10T16:21:42.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1290" CreationDate="2010-01-22T14:14:54.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, sparge arms are not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-22T14:14:54.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1290" CreationDate="2010-01-22T14:27:20.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I manually fly sparge. It consumes my attention, but shows that you do not need a sparge arm. My second-next equipment project will be a sparge arm (after a whirlpool chiller).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Does a sparge arm improve lautering?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Fly%5FSparging&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yes&lt;/a&gt;. If there were a quicker method that offered similar results the pro brewing community would have found it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How fancy?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not very.  My plan is to make a simple manifold out of PVC or copper that covers the top of my mash tun. I'll drill small holes in the material so sparge water flows out evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Keep in mind:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your primary concern in sparge arm design should be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Channelling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;channeling&lt;/a&gt;.  Ensure that the grainbed is evenly rinsed to gain the best efficiency.  Keep it simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-22T14:27:20.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1287" CreationDate="2010-01-22T14:44:49.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be better off using corny kegs as a &lt;strong&gt;secondary&lt;/strong&gt; fermenter. (If you transfer.)  I use them as brite tanks, clarifying my beer a week before serving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no risk of krausen explosion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can naturally carbonate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can transfer to the serving keg under pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No worry of clogging your dip tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't need to trim the dip tube. Most stories I hear about using cornys for fermenting caution against this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the dark crevices of your local homebrew shop you can probably find dusty, ugly, beat up corny kegs that don't hold pressure. They're a great deal to pick up for use as a fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like you, my brewery is set up for ten gallon batches. I just started using Sanke kegs and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewershardware.com/Sanke-Fermenter-Kits/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this conversion&lt;/a&gt; kit for fermenters. They are great - just as difficult to clean as carboys, but you can sterilize by boiling a gallon of water in them and capping with tin foil. I do this while heating strike water, giving the keg time to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T16:41:09.847" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T16:41:09.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1300" CreationDate="2010-01-22T15:54:02.000" Score="6" ViewCount="1678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering purchasing a conical fermenter but I'm not sure if it would be worth the cost. I feel like it would allow me to make better beer with less effort, but it would be nice to hear from some of you who actually own and use a conical to see if it is really worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about either a 14 or 7 gallon Fermenator with sanitary tri clamp fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastEditorUserId="121" LastEditDate="2010-02-14T15:11:18.163" LastActivityDate="2010-07-04T17:58:25.953" Title="Conical fermenter: worth it?" Tags="|fermenter|equipment|conical-fermenter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1326" CreationDate="2010-01-22T16:10:45.487" Score="9" ViewCount="1860" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does gelatin work for clarifying beer?  If so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much do you use?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When do you add it?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you prepare it? (Do you boil it in water? How much water to dissolve the gelatin?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="456" LastEditorUserId="1558" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T02:24:48.873" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T02:24:48.873" Title="Gelatin for clearer beer" Tags="|additives|clarity|fining|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1299" CreationDate="2010-01-22T16:16:28.710" Score="6" ViewCount="5781" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering getting a either a 7 gallon or a 14 gallon conical fermenter and am wondering if it would be okay to ferment a standard 5 gallon batch in the 14 gallon or if that would be a bad idea. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:22:55.870" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:22:55.870" Title="Is it okay to ferment a 5 gallon batch in a 14 gallon conical fermenter?" Tags="|fermentation|equipment|fermenter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1298" CreationDate="2010-01-22T17:23:01.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;You can, but the beer profile will be different.  With more head space above the fermenting beer, the CO2 will not be pushed out as efficiently.  This will create a higher pressure of CO2 pushing on the beer, which will decrease yeast growth, and increase ester formation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want consistency then I would not recommend brewing in the wrong size vessel.  If you don't care, go for it.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further reading&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scientificsocieties.org/JIB/papers/1992/1992_98_6_509.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.scientificsocieties.org/JIB/papers/1992/1992_98_6_509.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually I agree with  brewchez.  I did some further reading and it does appear that you can ferment a 5 gallon beer in a 14 gallon conical.  Where what I said really applies is to fermenters that are 15' or higher.  At this point the hydrostatic pressure at the bottom of the tank begins to inhibit yeast growth.  Additionally on Blichmann's website, it says at the bottom that you can brew 5 gallons of beer in a 14 gallon conical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now interested to trying to brew a 5 gallon batch in my 15 gallon cylindrical-conical and comparing it to a beer fermented in a glass carboy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastEditorUserId="368" LastEditDate="2010-01-22T21:08:22.920" LastActivityDate="2010-01-22T21:08:22.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1296" CreationDate="2010-01-22T17:25:25.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a conical that a welder friend made me and I love it.  The only problem is that it's not temperature controlled and it's too big.  I can't fit it in my fermentation chamber and I have to brew 12 gallons to come close to filling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the money, get one.  Someday I hope to have a fleet of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2010-01-22T17:25:25.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1297" CreationDate="2010-01-22T20:59:02.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should work.  Winemakers use it as a fining agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/wizard/article/section/121-mr-wizard/1687-would-fining-with-gelatin-have-an-adverse-effect-on-naturally-conditioned-beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BYO question about fining&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more common fining agent used by homebrewers is irish moss, added during the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-01-22T20:59:02.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1306" CreationDate="2010-01-23T00:26:35.713" Score="4" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed the number of rye beers released seems to be picking up over the last year or two.  Why do you think that is?  I was trying to get at whether it had been a cost issue.  Perhaps higher margins have allowed brewers to use rye more than they did?  Or maybe breweries have learned that customers want rye...or they're just all using it now without any definitive reason. Help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Adam" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-01-23T17:56:33.280" LastActivityDate="2010-01-23T17:56:33.280" Title="Is rye more popular than it's been?" Tags="|ingredients|rye|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1017" CreationDate="2010-01-23T01:22:01.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to remove all of the fittings clean them and put them back together every time I fill a keg.  In reality, I end up doing it every second or third time.  So far this hasn't bitten me on the butt, but I know for a fact one day it will.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for replacing o-rings; I replace them all whenever I get a new keg.  From there, I just keep an eye on them and replace any that leak as Dean said above.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="347" LastActivityDate="2010-01-23T01:22:01.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2010-01-23T01:29:38.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dump grains out (way out) in the back yard.  They are usually mostly gone the next morning.  Don't know who (or more likely, what) takes them, but that's the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="347" LastActivityDate="2010-01-23T01:29:38.940" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-01-23T01:29:38.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1329" CreationDate="2010-01-23T01:55:42.313" Score="7" ViewCount="15740" Body="&lt;p&gt;When fermenting a lager, what temperature should it be held at for best results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:43:30.120" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T12:43:30.120" Title="At what temperature should a lager be fermented?" Tags="|lager|fermentation-temperature|fermentation|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1302" CreationDate="2010-01-23T02:02:26.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rye has a long history in Bavarian brewing. Contrary to homebrewing lore, the impetus behind Reinheitsgebot was to prevent price competition with bakers for wheat and rye.  Thanks to the purity law, once common Roggenbier virtually disappeared.  The Germans began to revive the style in the late 80's. &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roggenbier#Roggenbier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed an increased number of craft brews containing rye.  While I can't say for sure I would bet it is primarily a way for brewers to differentiate their beer in a growing craft beer market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking for myself I use it because it's different, it is spicy &amp;amp; grainy, and compliments the European hops I like to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-23T02:02:26.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1305" CreationDate="2010-01-23T02:19:33.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;Best results&lt;/em&gt;&quot; really depend on your taste (or the judge's if you plan on entering competition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check with the supplier.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb%5Fyeaststrain.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WYeast&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew%5Fstrains.html#LAGER%5FYEAST&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs&lt;/a&gt; list preferred temperature ranges for all their strains.  Most lager strains like 50&amp;deg; to 60&amp;deg; F.  Many lagers also benefit from a diacetyl rest - raising the temperature to the high 60's F near the end of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like ales, there is much subtlety surrounding lager fermentation.  Higher temperatures produce more esters, usually inappropriate in lagers. On the low end of the range the resulting beer is &quot;cleaner&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=60&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;January 19, 2006 episode&lt;/a&gt; of Basic Brewing radio is all about lagering. &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/525&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Strong&lt;/a&gt; did one too. Listen to those podcasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-24T16:06:43.203" LastActivityDate="2010-01-24T16:06:43.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1290" CreationDate="2010-01-23T02:32:36.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not necessary, no. But for me it's easier. I ordered the rotation sparge arm (got it for an incredible price...), and since the ammount of sparge water, etc, is dialed in perfectly after so many brews, I start the siphon when I know it's time, and walk away, and come back to a kettle with exactly what I should have, and so far I have had very little, if at all, problems with my OG, preboil and post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="465" LastActivityDate="2010-01-23T02:32:36.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-23T02:45:15.890" Score="3" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just brewed a batch, and my OG reading is significantly different (1.051 as opposed to 1.070) than what Beercalculus.com predicted based on my recipe.  Is there any possible reason for this that anyone can come up with?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me clarify that this was an extract recipe in which I steeped specialty grains...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="bryan" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T00:53:06.383" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T00:53:06.383" Title="Different OG than predicted" Tags="|original-gravity|specific-gravity|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1309" CreationDate="2010-01-23T03:52:43.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;See answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1007/what-causes-original-gravity-to-be-lower-than-it-should-be&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T13:13:30.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1309" CreationDate="2010-01-23T12:49:02.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Were all the malt extracts you used dry? If you gave to beercalculus some quantities in DME while you have used LME, it is inevitable that you have a much smaller OG. LME contains some water, so when planning your beer you should think of it as 80% the quantity of DME of equal mass. Seeing the difference you have in OG, i suppose this is the most probable answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-01-23T12:49:02.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1305" CreationDate="2010-01-23T12:52:34.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never tried a lager myself, but most of the people I know that brew lager usually put it in even lower temperature than the one supllier suggest, about 40-45 degrees F. They say that in that way you can achieve better lagering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-01-23T12:52:34.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2010-01-23T12:56:21.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a spreadsheet I found, and have since modified, for my brewing. It's a 'good-enough' approach for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-01-23T12:56:21.697" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1296" CreationDate="2010-01-23T19:42:02.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been really tempted to get one of those plastic 7.5 gallon conicals I've seen.  They are much less expensive than steel and I brew 5 gallon batches.  The only thing keeping me from it is that if it gets one good scratch inside, it's worthless.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="347" LastActivityDate="2010-01-23T19:42:02.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1319" CreationDate="2010-01-23T21:36:47.390" Score="9" ViewCount="1382" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are steeping 5# of grain. Is the time the grains should steep based on the weight? We were just going to do 30 mins. Is this the correct amount of time or should it be more or less? This is for an IRS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, my original question was so vague. These were specialty grains for an extract brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T02:13:37.023" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T02:13:37.023" Title="Steeping grain time" Tags="|beer|techniques|steeping|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1325" CreationDate="2010-01-24T05:14:18.533" Score="3" ViewCount="591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing a scotch ale currently and haven't been able to determine how many volumes of co2 that it should have?  also,  what pressure should I put the beer under to carbonate to that many volumes.  thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:40:56.723" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T12:40:56.723" Title="force carbonating a scotch heavy ale" Tags="|kegging|carbonation|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1316" CreationDate="2010-01-24T05:29:52.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;the time to steep grain is typically not determined by weight. if the volume of grain being steeped is too large to be efficient, break it up into smaller amounts and steep them seperately.  for my system 'too much' is about 5lbs or anything that increases the volume in my pot by 1/4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;typically 20-30 minutes is fine for steeping grain as a part of a partial mash brew.  much less than that and you won't extract as many sugars from the grain, which is a waste of grain.  much longer, and the grains can start to leach tannins and proteins that add to chill haze.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;something that can be much more important than the time of steeping is the temperature of the water.   I aim for about 150-160 F.   the purpose of this is to activate the enzymes that turn starch into sugar so the most sugars can be extracted from the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastActivityDate="2010-01-24T05:29:52.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1316" CreationDate="2010-01-24T13:38:43.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For truly steeping some specialty grains for flavor and color 30 minutes is generally a good rule of thumb, independent of weight.  But you need to ensure good water to grain contact.  So putting the 5lbs in 2 or 3 grain bags with plenty of room for expansion is the key here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you are infact using some base malts then you are mashing and not necessarily steeping.  Maybe an edit to your question with the recipe or at least just the grains you are steeping would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-24T13:38:43.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1298" CreationDate="2010-01-24T15:21:36.267" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answers above are right, but I'd like to point that using a conical so big leaves much space obtained by air. I think it would be better if you used a smaller one so that less air rests inside and there is a smaller probability of the beer getting oxidized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-01-24T15:21:36.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-24T19:45:00.073" Score="6" ViewCount="665" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to brew an scottish heavy ale, and I wanted to give it a little different aroma using hazelnuts (other stuff too, but I want hazelnuts to be the main aroma). How do you suggest i use them? I was thinking of getting fresh ones, baking them in the oven to get some oils out and then crushing them to pieces and putting them in the second fermenter using the dryhop net.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:40:01.140" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T12:40:01.140" Title="Using nuts for beer aroma" Tags="|fermenter|nuts|adjuncts|ingredients|aroma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1321" CreationDate="2010-01-24T21:44:39.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems about right to me. You could soak those in Frangelico if you wanted to go really uh &quot;nuts.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastActivityDate="2010-01-24T21:44:39.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1282" CreationDate="2010-01-24T22:24:43.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Have done 2 versions of a chili beer. I had good results with my second version where I simply chopped 10 chilies and dry hopped them in secondary for 2 weeks, it ended up with a good flavor and just a bit of heat. I had just used regular Red Chili peppers because it was all I could fine fresh, but use what you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Mark" LastActivityDate="2010-01-24T22:24:43.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="906" CreationDate="2010-01-25T02:25:55.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nugget and Magnum &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Mark" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T02:25:55.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1317" CreationDate="2010-01-25T04:26:48.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if you mean Scottish Heavy 70/- or Strong Scotch ale, but start around 2 volumes and go from there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of pressure depends on what temperature the beer is in the kegerator.  Cold beer will hold more carbonation at a given pressure than warm beer.  You need to consult a carbonation table like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewery.org/library/CO2charts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brewery.org/library/CO2charts.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T04:26:48.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1297" CreationDate="2010-01-25T04:33:51.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gelatin is used post fermentation.  Irish moss (and whirlfloc and supermoss) go in the boil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you can get a bit of yeast or chill haze even with kettle finings.  At that point you could try gelatin to fix it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't boil the gelatin - that makes jello.  Instead, boil 1 cup of water by itself.  Take off the heat for a minute or so then whisk in 1 packet of unflavored gelatin.  Then add that to your fermenter or keg.  You may notice some improvement in 24 hrs, but it usually takes 3-4 days to completely clear for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T04:33:51.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="846" CreationDate="2010-01-25T07:11:12.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a great trick for those without a co2 system.  attach a small tube over your airlock so any escaping gas has to go through it.  put the other end in the fermenter.   an active batch of beer produces enough co2 to purge most of the air out of the secondary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a second thing I do, is transfer a bit early.  I wait for signs of fermentation to diminish and the yeast to flocculate but transfer before the airlock stops bubbling.  There is enough dissolved co2 in the young beer that it will bubble slowly for a while after primary fermentation has subsided.  while transferrring a lot of this co2 will come out of solution and help purge the secondary of air.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T07:11:12.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1321" CreationDate="2010-01-25T13:20:11.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too much oil from real nuts, IMO.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I'd say to get some hazelbut extract and use that.  You'll have to titrate it in a little at a time to get to where you want to be.  Pour yourself 12oz and drop it in, mixing and stirring as you go.  When the balance seems right do the math for how many 12oz there is in your whole batch , then add that many drops more to the whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T13:20:11.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1305" CreationDate="2010-01-25T13:47:17.287" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I am doing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment at 50F.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the beer is 60% attenuated allow the temperature to rise to 59F.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave at this temp for 48 hours for a diacetyl rest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack to a secondary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slowly bring the temperature of the beer down. 4F per day&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once at lagering temperature (mine is 35F), leave it alone for 20 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After 20 days, taste it, if it doesn't taste right I'll give it another week. When it tastes clean, I keg it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many different ideas on which temperatures to use. You could ferement even lower, it will just take longer, warmer and it will be quicker but could produce esters.  The diacetyl should be no more than 9 degrees above fermentaion temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ester production and the need for a diacetyl rest are based on yeast strain.  You may not need either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T13:47:17.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1364" CreationDate="2010-01-25T15:20:00.520" Score="14" ViewCount="4234" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Given the limited space of an apartment, what tips do you have for storing your equipment?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Do not consider budget to be a factor.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first question in a series of discussions about small-space brewing.  Please keep the discussion limited to &lt;strong&gt;equipment storage&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1331/small-space-apartment-brewing-mashing&quot;&gt;Mashing&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1332/small-space-apartment-brewing-steeping&quot;&gt;Steeping&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1333/small-space-apartment-brewing-boiling&quot;&gt;Boiling&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1334/small-space-apartment-brewing-the-chill&quot;&gt;Chilling&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1335/small-space-apartment-brewing-fermentation&quot;&gt;Fermentation&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1336/small-space-apartment-brewing-packaging&quot;&gt;Packaging&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1337/small-space-apartment-brewing-cellaring&quot;&gt;Cellaring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T17:41:41.563" Title="Small Space &amp; Apartment Brewing: Equipment Storage" Tags="|process|equipment|storage|small-space|apartment|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1473" CreationDate="2010-01-25T15:21:58.347" Score="8" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Given the limited space of an apartment, how do you mash in cramped quarters?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Do not consider budget to be a factor.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the second question in a series of discussions about small-space brewing.  Please keep the discussion limited to &lt;strong&gt;mashing&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1330/small-space-apartment-brewing-equipment-storage&quot;&gt;Equipment Storage&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1332/small-space-apartment-brewing-steeping&quot;&gt;Steeping&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1333/small-space-apartment-brewing-boiling&quot;&gt;Boiling&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1334/small-space-apartment-brewing-the-chill&quot;&gt;Chilling&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1335/small-space-apartment-brewing-fermentation&quot;&gt;Fermentation&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1336/small-space-apartment-brewing-packaging&quot;&gt;Packaging&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1337/small-space-apartment-brewing-cellaring&quot;&gt;Cellaring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T18:37:39.517" Title="Small Space &amp; Apartment Brewing: Mashing" Tags="|process|mash|small-space|apartment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1345" CreationDate="2010-01-25T15:25:04.330" Score="4" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Given the limited space of an apartment, what tips do you have for steeping specialty grain?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Do not consider budget to be a factor.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the third question in a series of discussions about small-space brewing.  Please keep the discussion limited to &lt;strong&gt;steeping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1330/small-space-apartment-brewing-equipment-storage&quot;&gt;Equipment Storage&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1331/small-space-apartment-brewing-mashing&quot;&gt;Mashing&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1333/small-space-apartment-brewing-boiling&quot;&gt;Boiling&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1334/small-space-apartment-brewing-the-chill&quot;&gt;Chilling&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1335/small-space-apartment-brewing-fermentation&quot;&gt;Fermentation&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1336/small-space-apartment-brewing-packaging&quot;&gt;Packaging&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1337/small-space-apartment-brewing-cellaring&quot;&gt;Cellaring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T11:49:12.137" Title="Small Space &amp; Apartment Brewing: Steeping" Tags="|process|steeping|small-space|apartment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1352" CreationDate="2010-01-25T15:27:28.740" Score="8" ViewCount="623" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Given the limited space of an apartment, what tips do you have for the boil?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Do not consider budget to be a factor.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the fourth question in a series of discussions about small-space brewing.  Please keep the discussion limited to &lt;strong&gt;the boil&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1330/small-space-apartment-brewing-equipment-storage&quot;&gt;Equipment Storage&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1331/small-space-apartment-brewing-mashing&quot;&gt;Mashing&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1332/small-space-apartment-brewing-steeping&quot;&gt;Steeping&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1334/small-space-apartment-brewing-the-chill&quot;&gt;Chilling&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1335/small-space-apartment-brewing-fermentation&quot;&gt;Fermentation&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1336/small-space-apartment-brewing-packaging&quot;&gt;Packaging&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1337/small-space-apartment-brewing-cellaring&quot;&gt;Cellaring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T03:01:35.317" Title="Small Space &amp; Apartment Brewing: Boiling" Tags="|process|boil|small-space|apartment|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1338" CreationDate="2010-01-25T15:29:43.557" Score="9" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Given the limited space of an apartment, how can you achieve a good chill?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Do not consider budget to be a factor.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the fifth question in a series of discussions about small-space brewing.  Please keep the discussion limited to &lt;strong&gt;wort chilling&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1330/small-space-apartment-brewing-equipment-storage&quot;&gt;Equipment Storage&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1331/small-space-apartment-brewing-mashing&quot;&gt;Mashing&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1332/small-space-apartment-brewing-steeping&quot;&gt;Steeping&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1333/small-space-apartment-brewing-boiling&quot;&gt;Boiling&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1335/small-space-apartment-brewing-fermentation&quot;&gt;Fermentation&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1336/small-space-apartment-brewing-packaging&quot;&gt;Packaging&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1337/small-space-apartment-brewing-cellaring&quot;&gt;Cellaring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T18:29:26.533" Title="Small Space &amp; Apartment Brewing: The Chill" Tags="|process|chilling|small-space|apartment|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1363" CreationDate="2010-01-25T15:31:37.483" Score="9" ViewCount="3123" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Given the limited space of an apartment, what do you do to maintain a steady fermentation?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Do not consider budget to be a factor.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the sixth question in a series of discussions about small-space brewing.  Please keep the discussion limited to &lt;strong&gt;fermentation&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1330/small-space-apartment-brewing-equipment-storage&quot;&gt;Equipment Storage&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1331/small-space-apartment-brewing-mashing&quot;&gt;Mashing&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1332/small-space-apartment-brewing-steeping&quot;&gt;Steeping&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1333/small-space-apartment-brewing-boiling&quot;&gt;Boiling&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1334/small-space-apartment-brewing-the-chill&quot;&gt;Chilling&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1336/small-space-apartment-brewing-packaging&quot;&gt;Packaging&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1337/small-space-apartment-brewing-cellaring&quot;&gt;Cellaring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T17:18:10.300" Title="Small Space &amp; Apartment Brewing: Fermentation" Tags="|process|fermentation|small-space|apartment|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1346" CreationDate="2010-01-25T15:34:15.000" Score="6" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Given the limited space of an apartment, how do you bottle &amp;amp; keg?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Do not consider budget to be a factor.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the seventh question in a series of discussions about small-space brewing.  Please keep the discussion limited to &lt;strong&gt;packaging&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1330/small-space-apartment-brewing-equipment-storage&quot;&gt;Equipment Storage&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1331/small-space-apartment-brewing-mashing&quot;&gt;Mashing&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1332/small-space-apartment-brewing-steeping&quot;&gt;Steeping&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1333/small-space-apartment-brewing-boiling&quot;&gt;Boiling&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1334/small-space-apartment-brewing-the-chill&quot;&gt;Chilling&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1335/small-space-apartment-brewing-fermentation&quot;&gt;Fermentation&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1337/small-space-apartment-brewing-cellaring&quot;&gt;Cellaring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T11:49:18.237" Title="Small Space &amp; Apartment Brewing: Packaging" Tags="|process|bottling|kegging|small-space|apartment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1354" CreationDate="2010-01-25T15:36:49.283" Score="7" ViewCount="536" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Given the limited space of an apartment, where do you store your homebrew before drinking?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Do not consider budget to be a factor.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the eighth question in a series of discussions about small-space brewing.  Please keep the discussion limited to &lt;strong&gt;cellaring&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1330/small-space-apartment-brewing-equipment-storage&quot;&gt;Equipment Storage&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1331/small-space-apartment-brewing-mashing&quot;&gt;Mashing&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1332/small-space-apartment-brewing-steeping&quot;&gt;Steeping&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1333/small-space-apartment-brewing-boiling&quot;&gt;Boiling&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1334/small-space-apartment-brewing-the-chill&quot;&gt;Chilling&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1335/small-space-apartment-brewing-fermentation&quot;&gt;Fermentation&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1336/small-space-apartment-brewing-packaging&quot;&gt;Packaging&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T03:35:23.123" Title="Small Space &amp; Apartment Brewing: Cellaring" Tags="|process|cellaring|storage|small-space|apartment|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2010-01-25T16:46:38.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A plate chiller or an ice bath are the best options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plate chiller is FAST, and super small. Easy to store it on a bookshelf or something. You do need to have a hose hookup on the sink to make this work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ice melts. Pretty good for saving space. It just takes a lot longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An immersion chiller takes up a bit more room, and can get messy. Definitely not the best option for small space brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T16:46:38.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1330" CreationDate="2010-01-25T16:59:30.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I operate my home-brewery in a 700 sq ft apartment with a kitchen that's nearly 15' long but only 2.5' (4-6' without appliances) - apparently, there were only skinny people when the place was built in the 1890's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, my space is painfully small. Consequently, none of my equipment is stored in my kitchen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is all organized into a large cardboard box (soon to be upgraded to heavy duty plastic bin). First and foremost, everything is completely dry before being returned to storage after use (living in Denver makes this easy). Secondly, all of my cleaning chemicals (organic bleach, Star San, PBW) are sealed in air tight containers, away from all consumable/food items, (leftover malt, grains, oak chips, corn sugar, etc.) which are also sealed in air tight containers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, my buckets and kettle stack nicely and hold my other tools (hydrometer, thermometers, racking cane, bottle caps (in sealed container).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardest thing to store are my plastic hoses. While I could coil them up and easily keep them in the kettle, they take at least a day to dry after having cleaned them, so I typically hang them near my storage area (currently, the corner of my living room: definitely an area for improvement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last, my carboy always has beer in it, so I don't worry about storing it, just making beer!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(I'm going to try and revisit this later with pictures and links to my forthcoming answers)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastEditorUserId="8248" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T17:41:41.563" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T17:41:41.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1330" CreationDate="2010-01-25T17:02:04.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a loft. There is zero storage. The only real storage I have is underneath my stairs because I cut a hole in the wall. The space is the size of a large closet. I save boxes from beer to store my empty bottles in, and stack them all under the narrow end of the area where the stairs get closest to the floor. I also bought 2 book shelves from ikea just as shelving storage. The shelves hold my pot, bottle tree, batches of bottled beer, some empties, and whatever other random things can live on them. The best thing I did for the space was I went to Home Depot and bought a bunch of random hooks that just screw into the wall that are meant for organizing in a garage. The most common ones are probably the hooks meant from hanging bikes from the ceiling, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00165Q4FS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;, but there are tons of other random sizes and shapes at Home Depot. From the hooks I hung my two carboys, bottling bucket, capper, syphons, and anything else I could just to get things off the ground and shelves. This greatly increased my storage and made it a lot easier to get around and use the space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T17:02:04.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2010-01-25T17:05:33.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do partial boils so chilling isn't too tough. I put the pot in my sink with the lid on, surround it by water, and then put in a bunch of reusable ice packs. This has seemed to work great and cause little mess. I see using a wort chiller or something similar probably being a bit of overkill and also causing a lot of excess mess and additional cleanup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T17:05:33.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2010-01-25T17:05:45.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done some testing with the ice bath method, it only improves my time by about 9% over letting the wort chill unaided.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I will be investing in the plate chiller shortly.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;My plan is to use a small hose attachment (with the adapter I use for my bottle washer) to run cold &lt;strike&gt;Rocky Mountain&lt;/strike&gt; Denver tap water past the hot wort as I put it in the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T17:05:45.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1333" CreationDate="2010-01-25T17:38:57.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;partial boils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oversized kettle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tend to the temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At most, I do partial mashes in my apartment's &lt;em&gt;tiny&lt;/em&gt; kitchen. Steeping grains in 2-3 gallons in a 6 gallon kettle helps me avoid boilovers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem has been with regulating the boil's temperature.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;With such a small volume, it is prone to rapid changes in temperature. So, I have to check in every few minutes to adjust my gas stove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With enough planning and diligence, this set up has worked well for my small partial mash batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T17:38:57.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1337" CreationDate="2010-01-25T17:51:47.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I have no means to store beer for longer than a few months, and don't &quot;cellar&quot; beer in a traditional sense (buying commercial microbrews for &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/35/how-to-store-beer&quot;&gt;aging&lt;/a&gt;), I do bottle condition my brews in a closet that stays just below 70ºF for about 6-7 months out of the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is likely a unique case to my apartment/climate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T17:51:47.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1332" CreationDate="2010-01-25T18:20:46.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep it proportional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't discovered a perfect ratio for pounds of steeping grains to steeping water volume, but I have learned to be wary of using more than a few pounds in just a couple gallon steep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously, I used a grain bag with 2-5 lbs of specialty grains, depending on the recipe, in a 8 qt steep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, though, I've started adding the milled grains directly to the water, without a bag. After steeping them for ~30 minutes, I use a second pot/kettle and conical colander with some cheese cloth to filter out the grains.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;After transferring the wort to the second pot (where I will add the extract, hops, etc. for the full boil), I use a couple quarts of hot water to sparge the specialty grains (still in the colander).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really enjoy the newer process, because I feel like my grains get better exposure and better add to the flavor profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T18:20:46.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1336" CreationDate="2010-01-25T19:40:03.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not entirely sure what this question is asking.  are you looking for how one packages beer, or how one stores the packages of beer.  I am going to try and answer both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very fortunate to have an understand fiance that doesn't mind beer stuff strewn about but I'm sure I'm the exception and not the rule.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically do a mix of bottles and kegs depending on the availability of my limited equipment.  for bottles I have a series of milk crates that hold ~20 bottles and stack as high as one wants.  It's a great space saver for bottles. I stack these, in the nooks and crannies of my apartment that have enough dead space.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one of my closets typically only holds dress shirts and pants, so I have some space on the bottom for storing kegs and associated hardware. I should also mention that this closet is open to the unheated cellar so it stays cool all year.  if I have people over or want to have something out of the kegs I typically have to pull everything out, so I try and keep most of my liquid assets in bottles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my apartment poses a couple challenges to bottling.  I have a tiny kitchen with no counter space and not enough floorspace for two people to be working on bottling.  I typically take my brew bucket and fill it with star-san and submerge bottles in my livingroom.  my helper passes the cleaned bottles to me in the kitchen for filling.  We lay down a bunch of towels to catch drips and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T19:40:03.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1331" CreationDate="2010-01-25T23:46:33.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a 5 gal. bucket with a braided s.s. hose for a filter, and attached to the spigot at the bottom. You can go here:&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;http://backyardbrewer.blogspot.com/2009/12/malting-barley-in-mexico-iv-mash.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://backyardbrewer.blogspot.com/2009/12/malting-barley-in-mexico-iv-mash.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;for a picture of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mark&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="mark taylor" LastActivityDate="2010-01-25T23:46:33.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1350" CreationDate="2010-01-26T00:18:42.817" Score="15" ViewCount="41385" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a recipe that calls for 5 lbs of LME.  How much DME would that be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T01:36:48.150" Title="What is the conversion rate between dry malt extract (DME) and liquid malt extract (LME)?" Tags="|extract|conversion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1348" CreationDate="2010-01-26T02:37:28.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The conversion rate is 1 DME = 1.25 LME.  To get the opposite, you would divide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your recipe specifically, use 4 lbs DME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="JulieHG" LastActivityDate="2010-01-26T02:37:28.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1348" CreationDate="2010-01-26T04:30:23.323" Score="15" Body="&lt;h2&gt;In short: 4.2 lbs DME&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DME = 0.84 * LME&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LME = 1.19 * DME&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The whyfor&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the manufacturer. Extracts and malts and adjuncts all have a &quot;points per pound per gallon&quot; rating that you can look up from the supplier.  &lt;em&gt;In general&lt;/em&gt;, dry malt extract gives you 44 pppg and liquid 37 pppg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 pounds of LME gives you 185 points. To get the equivalent points from DME you divide by 44 to get 4.2 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is related to &lt;a href=&quot;/a/1059/333&quot;&gt;my answer&lt;/a&gt; of Jordan's question about all grain conversion to extract. Also read the Homebrew Talk's wiki page for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Dry_Malt_Extract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dry Malt Extract&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Liquid_Malt_Extract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Liquid Malt Extract&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T01:36:48.150" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T01:36:48.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1288" CreationDate="2010-01-26T05:54:31.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For ease of cleaning, glass wins since it isn't easily scratched, and will withstand harsher cleaning methods over time.  Also, plastic will have to be replaced periodically as it can get stained and / or leach over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic isn't nearly as fragile or heavy as glass, so it wins on those fronts.  It's much less expensive than glass, which is why so many brewers start with plastic.  It's also much more versatile, and can be used both for fermentation, as a cleaning bucket, a bottling bucket and for storing all your kit in between brewing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both work fine for basic fermentation without effect on the finished quality of the beer.  What's more important is sanitation of the fermenter, not whether it's plastic or glass (unless you are aging, which you should never do in plastic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've only just begun selling Better Bottles at our shop, so don't have any customer feedback on how well they hold up over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="JulieHG" LastActivityDate="2010-01-26T05:54:31.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1333" CreationDate="2010-01-26T06:35:36.197" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taylor's partial boil answer is a good one, particularly if you are limited to the typical small-sized electric stove found in most apartments. Another issue with boiling wort in an apartment is excessive humidity, and more problematic, the smell drifting into your neighbor's loft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want to do a full boil, there is an alternative: go outside!  Many apartment complexes have outdoor patio areas.  With a bayou burner and propane tank, you're portable -- you can brew anywhere, and the heat generated on these portable turkey-fryer-like stoves is hot enough to boil any sized brew kettle.  And if you're brewing in a shared space, you're bound to attract attention, and possibly a brew buddy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea is to brew at your local homebrew shop.  Sometimes you will find a brew-on-premises style shop designed for this kind of thing.  If that's not available, ask your shop if they will let you brew outside next to the shop -- offer to do a monthly demo brew outside so the shop can attract customers -- a win-win for both of you.  They might even offer you a discount or free brewing supplies in exchange for teaching a class on how to brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, you can always brew with a friend at his more spacious home.  Moving to 10-gallon batches is not much of a stretch, with you carting your half home in a carboy or corny keg, and your brew buddy keeping the other half.  Not a bad way to spend a Saturday afternoon, brewing with a friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="431" LastActivityDate="2010-01-26T06:35:36.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1356" CreationDate="2010-01-26T18:47:09.117" Score="5" ViewCount="6522" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any idea on what BTU, PSI, etc. would be acceptable for 5 gallon boils? I've been looking around at turkey fryer's but I don't know if they'll pump out enough heat. Recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I'm trying to avoid using my glass electric stove. If I do that I'll probably need to do partial boils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="397" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-26T20:57:40.160" LastActivityDate="2010-01-27T21:16:36.870" Title="How can you tell if a propane burner is large enough for boil?" Tags="|beer-tools|burner|boil|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1337" CreationDate="2010-01-26T18:59:29.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too bottle the beer and keep it in beer crates. In that way all the bottles stay standing the right way up and they take less space than the would if i kept them without the crates. Of course i have them in a small storage room we have where the temperature is 60-70ºF (16-21ºC). Though the bottles are mostly brown, so the beer doesn't skunk easily, and in addition the room doesn't get any direct sunlight during the day, I prefer to cover the crates with a blanket or towel, just to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="3022" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T19:23:15.287" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T19:23:15.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1353" CreationDate="2010-01-26T19:03:34.683" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general the batches you will brew will be about 5 to 6 gallons. That means you'd better use a 6 or 7-gallon pot so that there is some extra space and you avoid boil-overs. If a propane burner is large enough to carry a 7-gallon pot, then it's also powerful enough to get a 6-gallon wort boiling. So get the pot, check its diameter and use a propane burner where the pot fits. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-01-26T19:03:34.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1353" CreationDate="2010-01-26T19:59:06.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The #1 issue with propane cookers is that the BTU ratings aren't always accurate. I talked with a heating engineer once about this.  Apparently, there are no solid industry standards when rating propane cookers.  A BTU is a BTU true, but the way you measure it can take different forms.  So when looking at burners you can't really compare between manufactures.  What may be one companies 50K BTU is anothers 30K BTU, and you'll get the same performance out of each.  BUt you may spend more to get the 50K thinking you are getting more power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that you CAN make comparisons within a manufacturer.  So if you look at one manufacture who has a 50K, 100K and 150K burner.  You can feel confident that they are each more pwerfull than the one below it.  Because the company uses the same test method for all its burners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I'd suggest looking for burners that are 1) used by many brewers and 2) look for ones that have 50K or better BTU ratings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a bayou classic and I am pretty please with it.  I also have a canjun cooker that works just a little bit better.  I find that the bayou 'banjo' style puts out a lot of heat, but the air intake could work a little better at high out put.  The canjun style seems to work great at all ranges of output, albeit a little less powerful than the bayou.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-26T19:59:06.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1353" CreationDate="2010-01-26T20:56:26.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think about what the turkey fryer is meant to do, heat up a few gallons of &lt;em&gt;oil&lt;/em&gt; to around 300&amp;deg; F, then you should reach the conclusion that it will be fine for boiling &lt;em&gt;water&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell: 30,000 to 50,000 BTUs will heat up your five gallons with ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A.J. deLange over at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/5092.html#5092-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrew Digest #5092&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Temperature shifts in water are very easily calculated from heat inputs&#xA;  because 1 BTU is the amount of heat required to raise 1 pound of water 1&#xA;  degree Fahrenheit. .... The other piece of&#xA;  essential information is that a gallon of water weighs about 8.3 pounds&#xA;  at room temperature (but only about 8 pounds near boiling). Thus &lt;strong&gt;the&#xA;  amount of time (hours) to raise a given volume of water from x to y&#xA;  degrees&lt;/strong&gt; is  8.3 &lt;em&gt;times&lt;/em&gt; the number of gallons &lt;em&gt;times&lt;/em&gt;  (y-x) &lt;em&gt;divided&lt;/em&gt; by the&#xA;  heat input in BTU per hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My emphasis added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He goes on to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The tricky part is getting the heat input.&#xA;  With a pot over a burner a lot of the heat is lost. The best way to get&#xA;  useful data is to put a measured amount of water into the vessel,&#xA;  measure the temperature, turn on the heat for a specific length of time,&#xA;  say 1/4 hour, and measure the temperature rise. The temperature rise&#xA;  multiplied by the mass of the water (8.3 times the number of gallons)&#xA;  is the number of BTU  the burner transferred to  the water in the vessel&#xA;  in 1/4 hour. Four times that is the BTU per hour value which should be&#xA;  used in future calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-26T20:56:26.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-26T22:00:08.897" Score="7" ViewCount="639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed beer with other friends, but never on my own. I'm certain my first batch will have multiple issues.  Most of my buddies started their firsts with Porters and Stouts.  Any other recommendations for a good beer to start off as a lone-homebrewer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="397" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:53:43.903" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T19:55:13.313" Title="A good style for first batch?" Tags="|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1358" CreationDate="2010-01-26T22:19:47.003" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's your favorite style of beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as it's not something involved like a Lambic, or a fruit beer or something with a million adjuncts you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for a recipe or ingredient kit for a style that you like that has a small amount of ingredients (malt extract, 1 or 2 kinds of hops, maybe an adjunct or two) and you should be good to go, talk to your brewing friends or the staff at your LHBS if you have any concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relax, don't worry, have a home brew (or maybe in your case a microbrew).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-01-26T22:19:47.003" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1358" CreationDate="2010-01-27T01:21:39.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much all extract recipes have the same steps, just the ingredients are slightly different.  The reason to start with a darker beer, like Amber or darker, is that the strength of the brew can cover up any minor mistakes that you made during the brew.  (Minor being goofing up the hop schedule, or the boil time, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry, as long as you pay close attention to your sanitation, and follow the recipe, you should be fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="JulieHG" LastActivityDate="2010-01-27T01:21:39.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1353" CreationDate="2010-01-27T01:26:21.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the answers above, make sure that there's an adequate flow control mechanism included, such as being able to fine tune the flame by adjusting the O2.  If there's isn't enough granularity of control, it will lead to more boil overs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="JulieHG" LastActivityDate="2010-01-27T01:26:21.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1358" CreationDate="2010-01-27T13:18:09.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most ales need pretty much the same steps. I suggest you don't start with a lager or pilsner since there are already too many things to see in practice before you get into lagering. Watch out for sanitation mainly. As Julie said, a stout, porter or other malty ale will be easier because its strong taste will cover up some mistakes. Don't get anxious, your beer will be much better than the once you buy from the market!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-01-27T13:18:09.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1335" CreationDate="2010-01-27T14:11:08.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I apartment brewed, I simply cleared out a corner closet for the fermenter. When it was warm out I would wrap a towel around the fermenter put a few reusable icepacks around it and wrap it again.  This helped keep the closet cool.  I looked for a closet that was furtherst away from any heat source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have forced air heating and cooling you can place a fermenter next to a vent and then with a box cover the fermenter and the vent.  You can also slightly slide a the whole box contraption to cover more or less of the vent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in an apartment, these are certainly good ghetto ways to ferment and control temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To aerate my wort I bought one of those inverted funnel like things that goes on on the end of the tubing from my racking cane.  I racked from my 3 gallon kettle into the fermentor.  The funnel thing did a good job increasing the air to wort contact surface ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-27T14:11:08.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1330" CreationDate="2010-01-27T14:13:29.587" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a couple of rubbermaid bins.  Organized my gear into a pre-boil box, a post-boil box, and a cleaning box.  I kept my glass fermentors in cardboard when not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-27T14:13:29.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1330" CreationDate="2010-01-27T16:22:11.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing is to remove the spigots on ale pails. They stack much better that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-01-27T16:22:11.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1529" CreationDate="2010-01-27T19:30:34.513" Score="1" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making shells tonight, stuffed with ground beef, celery, onions, parmesan, ricotta, and breadcrumbs, topped with tomato sauce and mozzarella. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What style of beer, or individual beers themselves, would pair well with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-02-17T01:27:44.213" Title="Beer Pairing: Stuffed Shells with Tomato Sauce" Tags="|pairing|food|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1375" CreationDate="2010-01-27T19:40:06.580" Score="6" ViewCount="1753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm holding a beer and cupcake pairing party and I was looking for beer recommendations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cupcakes include the following flavors: red velvet, strawberry shortcake, vegan chocolate and peanut butter, carrot cake, salted caramel, and s'mores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm open to any beer suggestion. I live in Chicago and I'll happily share the results at the end of the tasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-01-27T19:50:06.840" LastActivityDate="2010-07-23T14:51:34.357" Title="Beer and Cupcake Pairings" Tags="|pairing|food|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1367" CreationDate="2010-01-27T20:24:29.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stouts, Porters and Lambics is my short answer for where to start.  Nothing hoppy pairs well with sweets, at least on my palette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-27T20:24:29.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1366" CreationDate="2010-01-27T20:27:10.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Red sauce goes well with Pilsner and lighter IPAs.  Harpoon IPA would work well here as its relatively wimpy in the bitterness spectrum.&#xA;The next thing to try if you wanted something different.  Belgian Tripel would work well with red sauce too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-27T20:27:10.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1358" CreationDate="2010-01-27T21:12:45.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up with a recipe package from More Beer...  Jim Baumann's Milk Stout.  Seems fairly easy, just got to get an adapter and a hose for my kettle's spigot and I should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="397" LastActivityDate="2010-01-27T21:12:45.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1353" CreationDate="2010-01-27T21:16:36.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a test run on my electric cook top. 3.5 gallons boiled in 30-40 minutes. I should've checked the temps, but forgot. So, looks like I might be able to do a few partial boils and save the cash by using my stove.  Thanks for the help guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="397" LastActivityDate="2010-01-27T21:16:36.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1373" CreationDate="2010-01-28T09:31:29.150" Score="4" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say you have already put your beer into your fermenter and you decide its taste is not hoppy enough. So you start out to add some more hops into it. One way to dry hop, but I will not expand concerning it. The method I would like to discuss is boiling your hops in a small amount of water, waiting for it to reach room temperature and then pour your &quot;tea&quot; into your second fermenter before you close it. The question is: how good are the results of this? Do the same boiling rules for hops appear here too (ie, 60 minutes for bitterness, 30 for flavour or 15 for aroma)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-01-28T13:32:45.723" Title="Using hops after fermentation" Tags="|hops|fermentation|bitterness|flavor|boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1372" CreationDate="2010-01-28T13:32:45.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One technique with the hop tea would be to maybe hop burst it.  Where you boil say 4 oz for just 10 minutes.  There will be some complete conversion to bittered iso-acids, just not much in 10 minutes.  Hence the use of 4 oz and the term bursting.  The downside to this is that you are also going to bring along ALOT of hop aroma and flavor.  Which might be fine or bad depending on the style being amended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought BYO magazine had a story last year or the year before where they talked about making hop tea to increase bitterness.  But I couldn't find a link.  Maybe if someone else finds it and can put it in as a comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all you want is to get some more bitterness in your brew using some &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view%5Fproduct/7835/103693/IsoHop%5FBitterness%5FExtract%5F1%5Foz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;isomerized hop extract&lt;/a&gt; may be be a better method.  I have a couple brewing buddies that have used it with good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-28T13:32:45.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1376" CreationDate="2010-01-28T13:55:23.123" Score="3" ViewCount="1033" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops come in three formats pellets, plugs and whole-leaf.  Plugs are whole leaf hops that have been compressed into a little cake usually 0.5 ounces in size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the ups and downs of using either type of hop format?&#xA;Answers should include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measuring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Utilization (bitterness primarily)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Storage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Availability and Variety&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kettle and Fermenter Implications&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-30T05:10:30.970" Title="Pellets, Plugs and Whole Hops" Tags="|hops|techniques|ingredients|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1367" CreationDate="2010-01-28T15:01:55.940" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two guidelines to follow when pairing beer &amp;amp; food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put similar flavors together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put &quot;opposite&quot; or complimentary flavors together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Similar Flavors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Red velvet&lt;/strong&gt; goes with a cherry or raspberry &lt;em&gt;lambic&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try &lt;strong&gt;strawberry shortcake&lt;/strong&gt; with a &lt;em&gt;cream ale&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chocolate&lt;/strong&gt; pairs extraordinarily well with a good &lt;em&gt;black lager&lt;/em&gt; like Köstritzer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;S'mores&lt;/strong&gt; would go well with a &lt;em&gt;sweet stout&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Opposite/Complimentary Flavors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try &lt;strong&gt;carrot cake&lt;/strong&gt; with an &lt;em&gt;IPA&lt;/em&gt;. Just trust me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chocolate&lt;/strong&gt; also goes with cherry or raspberry &lt;em&gt;lambics&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Peanut butter&lt;/strong&gt; should pair nicely with a &lt;em&gt;chocolate stout&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Salted caramel&lt;/strong&gt; is a tricky one. Perhaps a hoppy &lt;em&gt;brown ale&lt;/em&gt; or a &lt;em&gt;British bitter&lt;/em&gt;. The salt will cut the hop bitterness and the caramel flavors of both beer &amp;amp; cupcake should mingle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-28T15:01:55.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1374" CreationDate="2010-01-28T15:18:12.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Pellet Hops&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&#xA;- Very easy to measure small quantities&#xA;- Readily available&#xA;- Don't absorb much wort&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&#xA;- Not as fresh, may have lost some of their Alpha Acids through processing&#xA;- Crumble to dust in the wort, hard to strain, end up mixed in with yeast cake, can't really be contained in a steeping bag&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Plug Hops&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&#xA;- Fresher than pellets&#xA;- Easy to strain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&#xA;- Difficult to break apart for measuring quantities other than 0.5 ounce.&#xA;- Absorb more wort than pellets&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Whole Hops&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&#xA;- Can be the freshest, giving the most aroma and flavor&#xA;- Easily strained or contained in a steeping bag&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&#xA;- Absorb more wort than pellets&#xA;- More difficult to store than pellets&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-01-28T15:18:12.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1250" CreationDate="2010-01-28T15:52:16.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were going to attempt to do this I'd use a squirt bottle.&#xA;I'd weigh the grain.  Then I'd measure out water to 3% of the grain weight.  3% to account for over spray and evaporation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd warm the water some, or at least make sure it was at room temp ~70-75F.&#xA;Put the grist bill in a large bottomed party tub.  Spray the top layer slightly.  Then mix the top layer into the base layers.  Spray again and mix.  Spray sparingly to prevent soaking the malt.  Keep going until all the water has been spent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I'd transfer the malt to a plastic bag and tie it off to keep the moisture in the malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd preheat a cooler with a gallon of near boiling water, to get the cooler warm.  I'd dump out the water and put the bag in the cooler and close the lid.  This will help keep the malt warm to help get that moisture you added more vaporized and able to penetrate the malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 20 minutes, much of the malt should be more hydrated.  I'd crush as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how I'd start.  Experimenting with the &quot;incubation&quot; time might be needed after the fact on subsequent brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-28T15:52:16.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1316" CreationDate="2010-01-28T20:55:48.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that it is easy and effective to place the bag of grain in the cool water as you begin heating it up. When the temperature reaches 170f-180f. (30-40 mins.) turn off the heat, remove the grains, stir in the extract and turn the heat back on to bring to a boil. My 2 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="mark taylor" LastEditorUserId="1558" LastEditDate="2011-08-31T14:50:15.550" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T14:50:15.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1250" CreationDate="2010-01-28T20:56:42.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the following through another website and have not attempted myself. I have never even heard fo this before now and am interested to try. here is someone else's process that sounds easy enough to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To condition the malt put the malt in a bucket and use a spray bottle filled with water to spray the top of the malt a few times. Now mix the malt and repeat. You want to distribute the added moisture as evenly though the malt as possible. Soon the malt's feel with become less like dry straw and more like leather. Once it looses it's dry feel and a few of the kernels start to stick to your hands let the malt sit for a few minutes to let the husks soak up the moisture. Get the mill ready and set it fairly tight. After all, you conditioned the malt to be able to crush it tighter. I set mine to 0.55 mm (22 mil). When you mill the malt you will notice that once in a while a crushed kernel will stick to a roller of the mill. This is ok and it only becomes a problem if a dough starts to build up on the rollers. In this case you used to much water. Run some dry malt through the mill to remove the dough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After crushing a hand full, look at the crush. You want to see kernels that look more flattened (like oatmeal) than crushed. Pick them up and the endosperm should be dry and come out easily. If this is the case you can continue crushing the rest. If they still look more broken than flattened add more moisture and try again. In the beginning you may want to stay on the safe side and don't add to much water to avoid the risk of doughing-up the rollers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I will try next batch! Great question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastActivityDate="2010-01-28T20:56:42.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="895" CreationDate="2010-01-28T23:28:00.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am also going through the process of switching from extract to all-grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general overview of the process, I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue5.4/palmer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A &quot;Cooler&quot; Way to Ease into&#xA;All-Grain Brewing&lt;/a&gt; really helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as far as building your own mash tun, the video &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftY_HZAFJFc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;How to make a Mash Tun from a cooler&quot;&lt;/a&gt; has great step by step instructions. I am typically a visual learner when it comes to brewing, so I find youtube videos help the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; By the way, I used the video &quot;How to make a Mash Tun from a cooler&quot; and it went great! It took me a few times of running back and forth from home depot, but I got it built. You may have a few minor issues depending on the type of cooler you buy (the only real problem I ran into).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="473" LastEditorUserId="473" LastEditDate="2010-04-01T17:03:12.487" LastActivityDate="2010-04-01T17:03:12.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1384" CreationDate="2010-01-29T14:05:46.727" Score="11" ViewCount="12345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using WLP002 - English Ale Yeast - in my current batch, a Young's double chocolate clone.  According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp002.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the manufacturer's product page&lt;/a&gt;, this yeast is highly flocculant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer remained in the primary for 15 days.  After this time, the gravity had fallen from an OG of 1.070 to 1.021.  This is a 70% apparent attenuation, which is the top end of the expected range for this yeast.  There was a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of yeast still floating on top of the beer, but I racked to the secondary anyway.  Here is &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JLRb0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a picture of the secondary&lt;/a&gt; after three days.  That is yeast on top.  Last night, after two weeks in the secondary I used a small spoon to pull a bunch of this out and verified by smell that it is definitely yeast.  I also took another gravity reading and found that it fell from 1.021 to 1.018 in the secondary.  I now have an apparent attenuation of 74.2%, kind of high for this yeast.  Yet, the yeast remains atop the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is the yeast not flocculating?  Might it be that the high amuont of lactose (12 oz.) and/or cocoa powder (6 oz.) in the beer is making the beer more dense than the yeast?  I'd like to see this yeast fall to the bottom before I bottle, else it will end up slurrying the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:37:35.513" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T08:03:02.087" Title="What would cause yeast to fail to flocculate?" Tags="|yeast|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1383" CreationDate="2010-01-29T15:54:08.067" Score="6" ViewCount="1961" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not having room or budget for a kegerator at the moment, I am considering building a jockey box for kegging homebrew.  There are a lot of plans on the internet for building your own, including suggestions to use food-grade plastic, stainless, or copper for the coiled tubing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason I couldn't use copper for this?  It is cheaper than stainless, conducts heat much better than the plastic, and it would seem that I would be able to coil-to-size and attach lines in much the same way I would build my own immersion wort chiller - I think I would have to special order the stainless coils, as I couldn't just bend it round a pot or corny keg.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="437" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:37:01.537" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:37:01.537" Title="Copper versus Stainless for Jockey Box" Tags="|equipment|kegging|copper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1382" CreationDate="2010-01-29T16:16:36.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Do not use copper with acidic foods&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High concentrations of copper are poisonous and acidic foods, especially carbonated foods like beer, will suck it out of the metal. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fda.gov/Food/FoodSafety/RetailFoodProtection/FoodCode/FoodCode2009/ucm189212.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FDA explains&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;4-101.14 Copper, Use Limitation.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When copper and copper alloy surfaces contact acidic foods, copper may be leached into the food. The acid that results from mixing [beer] and carbon dioxide leaches copper from the plumbing components and the leachate is then transferred to beverages, causing copper poisoning. Backflow prevention devices constructed of copper and copper alloys can cause, and have resulted in, the leaching of both copper and lead into carbonated beverages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2010-01-29T16:16:36.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1381" CreationDate="2010-01-29T18:27:41.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast will fail to flocculate for a variety of reasons.  In your case I think the biggest factor is the yeast are still active.  As long as yeast are still actively eating sugars and haven't fallen into survival mode,  they'll stay in solution where the food is.    Once they die they should flocculate.( &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/87/whats-the-difference-between-primary-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;here is the yeast life cycle in beer&lt;/a&gt; )  I would wait for the gravity to stabilize before worrying or trying anything else with this batch.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common reason, is temperature.  If the beer is kept at too warm of a temperature, the yeast will flocculate less than when it is cold.  If the gravity is stabilized and the yeast still aren't flocculating I'd put it somewhere cold and more of the yeast should flocculate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gravity is stabilized and it's in a cold place, and the yeast still aren't flocculating, I would look into fining agents, such as gelatin, or isinglass.  Fining agents act as coagulants for the yeast (and other things) in the beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt the amount of lactose or cocoa has much affect on the yeast flocculation.  I made a very chocolaty stout a while back with 3 pounds of chocolate and my final gravity was much higher than yours.  I had no issues with yeast flocculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one other thing that I just noticed.   part of your OG (assuming you added chocolate/lactose in the boil) will be non-fermentables.  This would throw off your calculations of % attenuation. I would definitely leave it somewhere warm until it ferments out, as I suspect the yeast isn't done with it's meal yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-01-29T18:27:41.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1381" CreationDate="2010-01-29T18:41:37.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm answering my own question on behalf of White Labs.  I contacted them about this and here's what I got back:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A lot of times with these flocculent&#xA;  strains, air pockets (or CO2 pockets)&#xA;  will cause the yeast to rise to the&#xA;  top.  It is strange for this strain&#xA;  not to flocculate very quickly, but it&#xA;  is possible for something like this to&#xA;  happen.  Once the beer gets chilled,&#xA;  it should settle out with no problems.&#xA;  I have a feeling there is just a lot&#xA;  of gas trapped in the cell clusters,&#xA;  causing it to float.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to check the gravity again tomorrow.  If it's still at 1.018, then I'm going to cold-crash the carboy in a fridge for four or five days and see what happens then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-01-29T18:41:37.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1381" CreationDate="2010-01-29T19:36:07.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suspect also that the little bit of fat from the cocoa powder may be coating some of the yeast and making them more bouyant.  Also creating aggregates that trap gas like White labs said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anothe cause of poor flocculation is low calcium levels in your brewing water.  Yeast need calcium as part of the flocculation process.  You can't do anything about it now, but maybe next time add in some extra calcium chloride or calcium carbonate.  But by next time you won't be rebrewing the chocolate stout, so its a meaningless comparison at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is weird, because WLP002 is a viscious flocculator normally.  I bet its the fat content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-29T19:36:07.763" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1382" CreationDate="2010-01-29T19:40:20.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold plates can sometimes be found cheaply on Craigslists and eBay.  These are usually foodgrade aluminum or stainless.&#xA;Copper is definately not a great idea for fermented beer. Wort tends to have a pH of about 5.0-5.5.  But post fermentation the pH drops a point or so and this level of acidity can react adversely with copper when exposure is extended.  How long who knows, but if you ended up leaving beer in the copper coil it could cause a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-01-29T19:40:20.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1367" CreationDate="2010-01-29T21:47:47.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Caramel goes well with somewhat raisiny wines, such as malbec or sherry.  Extrapolating to beer, maybe for the Salted Caramel, you might want to try a raisiny beer, such as as Dogfish Head's Raison D'Etre or Midas Touch Golden Elixer, which is made with muscat grapes.  Lindeman's Cassis Lambic could work, too, as it's made with currants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware - i'm theorizing here.  Try this out before you subject your friends to it.  Also, since this is a homebrew advice forum, I suggest making clones of all these beers to serve.  ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-01-29T21:47:47.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="895" CreationDate="2010-01-30T04:45:43.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 of these:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/60_QUART_BREW_POT_WITH_1_2_V_P1905C50.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/60_QUART_BREW_POT_WITH_1_2_V_P1905C50.cfm&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;both with false bottoms in them.  Actually, mine are polarware, but the design is the same.  One I use as a mash tun and the other is my boiling pot.  I have a 6' tall rack next to my cookstove (just a freestanding propane campstove-- one of those big 2 burner jobs with legs) where I keep my hot water tank (which is an old plastic bottling bucket).  I don't have a sparge arm, though they help.  I just hang out during the sparge and spread the sparge water around by hand, using my bottling tubing as a hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I've got a poorboy setup that simulates the Tiptier Modular Brewing Stand here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/WORT_MAKING_EQUIPMENT_BEER__C13.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/WORT_MAKING_EQUIPMENT_BEER__C13.cfm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the hot water tank's at the top, the mash tun's in the middle and the cookpot's down below.  If you get a rack and burners like the one in the photo linked above, then you don't have to lift the damn brew pot off the floor onto the burner like I have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crap, the links above may not work here-- looks like the wiki is stripping out underscores.  So you'll need to go to the site above and search &quot;R12&quot; for the cookpot/mash tun and click on &quot;WORT MAKING EQUIPMENT (BEER)&quot; under the homebrew category for the stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah, getting the thermometer accessory for both the mash tun and the cookpot is helpful too.  That way you don't have to float one in there.  I also have another 7 gal stainless pot that I use to heat my sparge water in while I'm heating my mash water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-01-30T04:45:43.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1374" CreationDate="2010-01-30T05:10:30.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of opinions about this, but I can only speak from what I've found in my brewing experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found pellet hops to be the easiest to find and measure.  I like the convenience of using them in dry-hopping because they break down and end up in the yeast-cake so they don't clog my racking cane.  All of this because I have a very low-tech setup.  Pellets are usually very inexpensive compared to fresh plugs, at least where I usually shop.  I also feel like they're usually not as fresh or that they've lost something in processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as quality-of-brew goes I really like plugs, especially when I get them from a good supplier who guarantees freshness (Home Brew Mart is where I get mine).  Easy to measure like pellets, consistent like pellets but gooey and fresh like whole hops.  I've found it to be a pain in the rear when I dry hop with plugs because they clog up my cane, but that I get a much crisper citrus/floral profile in my IPAs so it's often worth the hassle.  As a general rule, I use 25% more by weight when converting a pellet recipe to plugs.  Plugs from the above supplier are way more expensive than pellets anywhere I've bought them.  So I pay more for that citrus bang from Simcoe/Cascade/Amarillo plugs, but skip plugs for anything that doesn't require a super crisp, citrus aroma... and when I'm feeling lazy or cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whole hops are basically the same as plugs as far as measurement/utilization goes.  I think they can dry out faster than plugs if they're not fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whole hops and plugs are great if you can afford them and you have a false bottom in your cookpot, because you don't need to deal with bags and can pitch them right into the wort and let the false bottom strain them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gets tricky when you get into using homegrown fresh hops.  Let's save that for another thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-01-30T05:10:30.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-30T19:05:02.867" Score="3" ViewCount="4813" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can you buy and what type of material have you made a BIAB with? Specifically:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Name/brand/type of material&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-Mesh size&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-Dimensions of raw material and final bag&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="456" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2011-01-06T19:58:20.487" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T02:45:08.370" Title="Brew in a bag (BIAB) material" Tags="|all-grain|small-space|biab|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-01-30T21:34:22.750" Score="15" ViewCount="5419" Body="&lt;p&gt;This thread is not actually one single question, but a number of different ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When calculating sugars used in the wort, how much sugar does honey contain? Is it closer to dry malt extracts, raw cane sugar, dextrose?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When is it better to use it? Boiling time? Second fermentation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How intense is the flavor it leaves in the beer? What if you use honey with herb aroma? Is there a maximum quantity of honey you should use so that it does not cover the primary flavors of your beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do honey sugars create &quot;sharp notes&quot; in your beer, and thus &quot;bad&quot; alcohol?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it worth using it prior to bottling for CO2?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T13:38:05.423" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T13:38:05.423" Title="Using honey in beer" Tags="|sugar|flavor|wort|recipe|ingredients|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1392" CreationDate="2010-01-30T22:54:06.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;-Not sure, actually, how much fermentable sugar is in honey. I just use it for the flavor, and whatever the OG is, it is. I know that doesn't help if you're trying to pre-calculate your OG range. When I use honey or maple syrup, I plan the beer to the specs I want (wheat, amber, whatever), and however much ABV the adjunct adds, so be it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Honey is the only food that doesn't spoil, but it does harbor wild yeasts. I always include it in the boil, to sterilize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Depends on the amount. I've used a pound for just a hint of flavor, and 5 pounds, which made a KILLER honey wheat. You will pick up the herbs if you use a really strong wild honey. Clover honey is usually pretty mild, others can be quite powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Not in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-I doubt it. If you're trying to achieve a specific gas density, I'd go with known quantities of sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2010-01-30T22:54:06.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1391" CreationDate="2010-01-31T04:51:58.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generic brand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nylon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fine mesh - the finer the better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 inches deep by 18 inches wide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bag holds at least eight pounds of grain.  I BIAB as my pilot system, making 1-3 gallon batches on my stove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine thinks any fine nylon mesh will work. You could make one from materials found in an arts &amp;amp; craft store like Michael's or Beverly's Fabrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-31T04:51:58.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1392" CreationDate="2010-01-31T05:38:10.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only answer the first part of your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sugars in honey vary depending on the type.  If you really want to know the contributions you should make a measurement.  Specific gravity is a measure of points per pound per gallon (ppg). All you need do is take a pound of honey, add pure water until you have a gallon and measure with a hydrometer.  Instead of wasting a pound, you can get the equivalent concentration with two ounces honey &lt;em&gt;by weight&lt;/em&gt; and pure water topped off until you have two cups &lt;em&gt;by volume&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you know the points per pound per gallon of your honey you calculate the specific gravity contribution it will make to your wort.  Multiply ppg by pounds of honey then divide by gallons of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if your honey's ppg is 24 and you use 4 lbs in 5 gallons you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;24 * 4 / 5 = 19.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your honey adds 19.2 points, or 1.0192 specific gravity, to the wort.  Use software to figure the wort without honey (or do it by hand), then add 1.0192 to the SG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This formula works for all fermentables provided you know their ppg rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-31T05:38:10.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1400" CreationDate="2010-01-31T20:15:24.140" Score="5" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a good dual faucet kegerator for home brewing. I brew in the normal 5.5 gallon batches. I am wanting to move away from bottling and into kegging, and I really want to be able to do two kegs so I can keep a cycle going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions on what brand or unit to buy (hopefully somewhere around the $500-$700 range). Do I need to buy one more expensive than that? Is it better to try and find them locally? Are the prices on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/kegerators/dualkegerator/index.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beverage factory&lt;/a&gt; pretty reasonable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wanted to know where to find good deals on 5 gallon kegs that would go in the dual faucet kegerator as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="473" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-01-31T23:21:06.917" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T01:57:09.183" Title="Dual Faucet Kegerator and kegs" Tags="|keg|kegerator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1392" CreationDate="2010-01-31T20:55:58.893" Score="13" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When calculating sugars used in the&#xA;  wort, how much sugar does honey&#xA;  contain? Is it closer to dry malt&#xA;  extracts, raw cane sugar, dextrose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honey is loaded with fermentable sugar (think mead...), though not as much as malt extracts. There are &quot;adjuncts&quot; within the honey as well. But you can yet a near-even yield from honey as you could from dry malt/syrup, at least from my limited experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When is it better to use it? Boiling&#xA;  time? Second fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used it in the boil and I've used it (boiled) instead of corn sugar when bottling. But I've always boiled it first to sterilize. Honey--while it won't spoil--can contain pollen, yeast, and other elements that could potentially harbor the growth of nasties in an otherwise sanitary solution. Remember, honey is also an antitoxin, so on its own it won't be affected by anything potentially residing within it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How intense is the flavor it leaves in&#xA;  the beer? What if you use honey with&#xA;  herb aroma? Is there a maximum&#xA;  quantity of honey you should use so&#xA;  that it does not cover the primary&#xA;  flavors of your beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the type on honey, the type of beer, and the amount of honey in the batch. I have used just a bit during bottling to give the beer a nice tacky sweetness, and have used a hefty dose (5 lbs honey and 6.5 lbs fermentable malt sugars) to be a main ingredient. Honey will lend any florals it contains to the flavor of your beer. Of course, if you're using supermarket honey you'll only be getting a mellow sweetness with some very faint florals. Personally, I try to find local wildflower honey from local keepers that hasn't been pasteurized. It lends an amazing bouquet along with the sweetness and spike to the ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do honey sugars create &quot;sharp notes&quot;&#xA;  in your beer, and thus &quot;bad&quot; alcohol?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad alcohol? No. Sharp notes? It could. It really depends on what you're making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it worth using it prior to bottling&#xA;  for CO2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used it, as I mentioned above. I've used 1/2 cup honey boiled in a cup or so of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="476" LastActivityDate="2010-01-31T20:55:58.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1500" CreationDate="2010-01-31T21:16:23.790" Score="5" ViewCount="780" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first homebrew just reached the point where I can drink it about a week ago. I used a wheat extract (&lt;strong&gt;Edit: It was this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewhq.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=1807&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Munton's Wheat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;) and it turned out drinkable, but not good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It tastes nothing like a wheat beer. It is watery and sweet, and I mostly taste the sweetness and alcohol when I drink it. There is not even a hint of wheat flavor that I can taste, and the sweet and alcohol flavors don't blend together at all. It tastes like a slightly sweeter generic light beer (miller lite, bud light, take your pick). The two areas I am guessing I screwed up on (but not sure and would like some suggestions) were these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I may have stopped fermentation too soon: I didn't take the original gravity of the beer, because I hadn't yet bought my hydrometer. I stopped the fermentation in first food grade plastic bucket at about a week and a half. The air lock was still bubbling every 20 to 30 seconds or so, but I moved it over to the carboy for clearing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I may have added too much water: I made around 2 gallons of wort and added around 3 gallons of water to the fermenter after cooling. I wasn't really sure where the 5 gallon mark was for the bucket, so I just guessed on how much water to add.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any ideas on what could have gone wrong from the taste of the beer I described, or if you have any suggestions, please help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="473" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:36:00.417" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T12:36:00.417" Title="Brew Fail Diagnosis Help" Tags="|first-time|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1398" CreationDate="2010-01-31T21:57:13.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a lot of factors at play here, but lacking a hygrometer to take an initial gravity reading is likely a big factor here. What was your final gravity? Adding water is a non-issue from this condensed-wort brewer. I just recently picked up a 7.5 gallon brew kettle, and for the past 5 or so years have been using a 2-3 gallon boil with top-off to 5 gallons using clean, filtered water.  As Arlo427 said, we need more info. What was your ingredient list and process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="476" LastActivityDate="2010-01-31T21:57:13.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-01-31T23:19:44.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm more of a Do-It-Yourself kinda guy.  However I can give you some brewadvice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the Beverage Factory website, Beverage-air and Sanyo are decent brands. Can't say anything about Summit either way.  Look for a model that is energy efficient and sturdy.  The tower should seat solidly on the unit and not give when you pull the tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they don't already have them, I recommend upgrading to &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/6495/102244/Perlick_Faucet_-_Stainless&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Perlick seal-forward&lt;/a&gt; faucets. They stay clean longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/images/thumb/phpThumb.php?src=/product_images/morebeer.com/1/7930.jpg&amp;amp;w=250&amp;amp;h=250&amp;amp;far=C&amp;amp;fltr[]=wmi|../../themes/morewinepro/images/thumbnail_watermark.png|C|15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Perlick seal-forward faucet http://morebeer.com/images/thumb/phpThumb.php?src=/product_images/morebeer.com/1/7930.jpg&amp;amp;w=250&amp;amp;h=250&amp;amp;far=C&amp;amp;fltr[]=wmi|../../themes/morewinepro/images/thumbnail_watermark.png|C|15&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-01-31T23:19:44.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1440" CreationDate="2010-02-01T11:50:06.230" Score="6" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally understand the grain side of things, but I can't get my head around hops. Given the variety and choice, how do you go about selecting what hops to use and how much of each hop...? Are there any resources online that delve into how to build the hop profile for a beer...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-01T20:18:47.963" LastActivityDate="2010-02-04T07:55:41.237" Title="Help With Hops..." Tags="|hops|flavor|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-02-01T13:05:10.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another very good option is to buy a small chest freezer from the local big-box store and buy a home brew conversion kit from one of the online brew stores that includes a CO2 bottle, gas and liquid lines, regulator, shank, taps and hardware. You need to add is add a thermo-controller that will override the freezers temperature controls (also available from the home brew store) and you will have a kegerator for home brew that will accommodate 3 or more kegs depending on which size freezer you purchased. You can decide whether to buy a tower to mount on the lid or simply drill holes in the front of the freezer to mount the taps directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kegerator kits are going to come with the fittings for a commercial sanke keg by default so will still require you to get a conversion kit to push homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-02-01T13:05:10.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1398" CreationDate="2010-02-01T13:19:40.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There sounds like a lot of variables here, any one of which could have resulted in characteristics you describe. Here are a few tips for your next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't give up, you will be surprised how much better your next batch is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay close attention to the liquid volumes. Pre-mark the inside of the bucket with a sharpie.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you followed the instructions and got the right volumes, the gravity reading would be spot on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If its still bubbling vigorously, then its probably still fermenting, don't rush to secondary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point 4 is especially true with a wheat beer that isn't expected to clear up anyway. There is a lot of discussion about yeast off-flavors when left in the primary too long but most people agree that it has to be way long to have a significant effect. Also less of an issue in a wheat beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now the most important tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a local brewstore, even though they may be more expensive than the online places, go there and make friends with the owner and other customers. They are you best source of advice. Next best is a local brew club.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab a book like Dave Miller's Homebrewing Guide or Charlie Papazian's Joy of Homebrewing. These are invaluable resources and no brewhouse should be without them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-02-01T13:19:40.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1401" CreationDate="2010-02-01T13:37:17.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing your beer is getting from the hops is alpha acids which produce bitter flavors to offset the sweetness of the malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For recipe formulation you will be balancing the alpha % of the hop factored with how long the hop is in the boil which determines how much of the acid gets extracted into the wort. The style guides and recipes will refer to this as IBUs (International Bittering Units).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add to this the different flavor and aroma characteristics of different hop strains (more citrus, more piney etc.) makes hop utilization and major factor in the beers flavor and a complex one to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ray Daniels has two chapters dedicated to this topic in his book 'Designing Great Beers' and I can thoroughly recommend this book if you are getting into recipe formulation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-02-01T13:37:17.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1401" CreationDate="2010-02-01T20:42:36.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Jim says, &lt;em&gt;Designing Great Beers&lt;/em&gt; is an awesome resource.  The second half of the book is a study of winning recipes, which should give you the beginning of an idea in terms of hop flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thing you can do is read the aroma and flavor descriptions at some place like the Northern Brewer's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-ingredients/hops&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hop page&lt;/a&gt; or the HomebrewTalk Wiki page of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Hop%5Fvarieties&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hop Varieties&lt;/a&gt;. Use your imagination to think about what those flavors would taste like in a beer or try to think of beers you had with those hop flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, get down to brewing. Keep it simple by making beers with only one or two hop varieties. When you taste your beer, again read over the hop flavor and aroma descriptions. See if you detect anything similar in your beers. Last year I made a brown ale with only Northern Brewer. Now I can fairly easily pick out that hop in a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-01T20:42:36.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-01T21:06:27.733" Score="5" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most LME come in 3 pound cans, which is a quite large quantity if you want to add just a little to your wort, just one pound for example. It's a shame to throw away the rest. If I open a LME can and do not want to use the whole amount of lme, can I save the rest for later, even in a refrigerator? After all, it already contains water so it doesn't have the hydration problems of DME, and, furthermore, whatever the time i decide to use it, I will boil it for sanitation first. What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-02-02T15:36:05.643" Title="What about opened LME cans?" Tags="|extract|refrigerator|contamination|conditioning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1407" CreationDate="2010-02-01T21:10:13.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep. Seal it up with some plastic wrap and a rubber band. Or, better, in air-tight tupperware and keep it in the refrigerator. Limit exposure to oxygen and you should be okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taste it before using again to check if it's stale or off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-02T15:36:05.643" LastActivityDate="2010-02-02T15:36:05.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1407" CreationDate="2010-02-01T21:47:57.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Foodsaver makes tupperware-type containers with vacuum valves that allow you to suck all the air out of the container.  Put your LME in one of these, sucky-thing it, then store it in the fridge for a little while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-01T21:47:57.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1401" CreationDate="2010-02-02T11:21:42.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I like to do sometimes is make a SMaSH (Singe Malt and Single Hop) beer. You can really get to know a hop type, malt type, and yeast strain that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2010-02-02T11:21:42.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1407" CreationDate="2010-02-02T12:26:03.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you can't save it.  You really can't limit the Oxygen exposure very well and it will eventually stale.  Not to mention is somewhat hyrgoscopic so its going to try and absorb moisture from your fridge thereby sucking up odors from your fridge as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best bet is to be using a mix of liquid and dry.  Use LME for the bulk of your extract needs until you can't use a full can anymore.  Then switch to dry to take you to your desired total extract points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alexanders does sell small cans of LME called kickers.  I think these are half pound each.  You might also want to look for some of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-02T12:26:03.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1401" CreationDate="2010-02-02T12:43:15.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the only way to really figure it out is to experiment.  There really are no rules or magic formulas that makes a combo of certain hops more of an amber, pale or stout than other combos.  Some beers do benefit from using hops from the country of origin.  For example, you can make an irish stout with a boat load of citrusy American Hops, but then it will be a closer to American Stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you stick with chosing hops that make sense based on country of origin that will take soem of the guess work out.  But from there its an experimentation thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-02T12:43:15.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1416" CreationDate="2010-02-02T13:51:21.090" Score="6" ViewCount="1171" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or is it okay for the secondary fermentation to be colder than primary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:35:20.277" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T20:04:44.813" Title="Should secondary fermentation be the same temperature that primary was?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|fermentation|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1420" CreationDate="2010-02-02T13:55:30.130" Score="16" ViewCount="22387" Body="&lt;p&gt;If so, what kind of weight should I use? Should it be enough to sink the bag to the bottom of the carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:34:39.170" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T20:37:14.073" Title="Is it important to weigh down a hop bag for dry-hopping?" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|techniques|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1417" CreationDate="2010-02-02T13:57:57.287" Score="8" ViewCount="2381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always have a difficult time getting the hops in the carboy and then removing it when dry-hopping. What's the trick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:34:07.300" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T12:34:07.300" Title="How do you get the bag of hops into the carboy and then remove it?" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1413" CreationDate="2010-02-02T13:59:45.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all you're doing with the secondary is conditioning the beer, i.e. letting the flavors develop and whatnot, it can be cooler. If you're trying to let the yeast continue to ferment out the last few gravity points, it's best to leave it around the same temperature. If the yeast are fermenting and you drop the temperature, they could fall out of suspension and you'll have a stalled fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2010-02-02T13:59:45.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1415" CreationDate="2010-02-02T15:12:04.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easy answer is don't use a bag.  I usually use whole flowers when dryhopping.  They float on top and then I rack to another carboy when done w/ the dryhop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a bag 2x and it was a royal pain in the butt.  Getting it out was always the hard part, brute force was my method.  It always made me worry about contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="478" LastActivityDate="2010-02-02T15:12:04.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1415" CreationDate="2010-02-02T15:40:15.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's easier using pellet hops in the bag. What I do is place the hops in the bag along with a weight of some sort (a stainless butter knife or something thin) to get the bag to sink. Tie a length of dental floss to the top of the bag and lower the bag into the carboy keeping a length of the floss outside the carboy. Lower bag halfway down and then push the stopper/airlock back into the top of the carboy cinching the dental floss in place so that you can pull the bag back up later. I would recommend racking the beer out of the carboy before trying to retrieve the bag because it will expand and need to be worked out of the carboy opening.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;mark&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;www.thebackyardbrewer.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="mark taylor" LastActivityDate="2010-02-02T15:40:15.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2010-02-02T15:45:35.307" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It helps, but is not necessary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more the hops are exposed to wort the better the aromas and flavors will transfer to the beer. Use something you can sanitize - smooth like marbles, coins, washers or silverware. It shouldn't lay on the bottom of the vessel; instead, suspend it in the middle of the brew. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/post445/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brew Strong recorded an episode&lt;/a&gt; all about dry hopping.  It's a good listen with some surprising information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-04-29T11:40:52.893" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T11:40:52.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="906" CreationDate="2010-02-02T15:47:19.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simcoe and Columbus&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;mark&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;www.thebackyardbrewer.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="mark taylor" LastActivityDate="2010-02-02T15:47:19.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1398" CreationDate="2010-02-02T16:26:46.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with Munton's extracts. However, after a little research, I see two potential problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Not enough fermentables&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you didn't have a hydrometer to measure the OG with I have to speculate. The can of extract weighs 1.8 kg which, if it is a typical liquid malt extract, should yield 5 gallons of 1.029 wort (&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/655/how-do-you-calculate-original-gravity&quot;&gt;reference&lt;/a&gt;). You mentioned that the container said the OG should be 1.040 to 1.044. Did you add extra sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neglecting the extra fermentable sugars would account for the weak &amp;amp; watery taste.  What about the hop bitterness? Is it out of balance with the maltiness? Since the can contains all the hop flavor, but not enough malt, it should be on the bitter side.  Wheat beers are generally lightly hopped, so this may not be apparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lesson here is carefully measure volumes and specific gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Infection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you followed the directions, an infection could have consumed sugars that brewer's yeast normally would not. This may result in an alcoholic, watery beer.  Are there any hints of infection, such as sourness or vinegary flavors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Try, try again&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Canned beer kits are a great way to start out with the hobby. As you learn more and gain experience your beers will improve. There are good resources here when you are ready to upgrade to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/98/first-time-homebrewer-setup&quot;&gt;first-time setup&lt;/a&gt; or go straight for &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/116/about-going-all-grain&quot;&gt;all-grain&lt;/a&gt;. Keep it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-02-10T22:41:04.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2010-02-02T19:28:57.027" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should weigh down the bag.&#xA;Use sanitized marbles or a spare stainless steel fitting to weigh down the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/post445/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brew Strong&lt;/a&gt; episode discussing dryhopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-04-29T20:37:14.073" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T20:37:14.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1467" CreationDate="2010-02-03T13:24:08.060" Score="7" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;Particularly when racking from primary to secondary and then again into the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:33:15.927" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T21:39:26.700" Title="Should I worry about CFLs (Compact Fluorescent Lamps) skunking my beer?" Tags="|flavor|spoilage|skunk|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1425" CreationDate="2010-02-03T13:41:55.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;See the answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1291/skunking-beer-process&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T21:39:26.700" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1428" CreationDate="2010-02-03T14:06:07.683" Score="7" ViewCount="5227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking this might help prevent oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:32:20.843" LastActivityDate="2017-02-12T18:32:44.680" Title="Should I purge my carboy with CO2 before racking to secondary?" Tags="|fermentation|secondary|oxidation|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1427" CreationDate="2010-02-03T14:21:36.033" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It couldn't hurt&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxygen is one of the two beer spoilers that homebrewers can control. Reducing beer's exposure to it helps achieve maximum flavor stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;However&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before going through the trouble and expense ask yourself if you have a problem. Do your beers taste like wet cardboard or stale crackers? Are you going to lay them down for an extraordinarily long time (years)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly, in secondary the beer is still producing CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; and will again create a protective layer.  I purge the headspace in my kegs, cap bottles on CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; foam, but don't transfer to secondary.  My beers last many months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-03T14:21:36.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1427" CreationDate="2010-02-03T14:44:50.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To follow-on to Dean's answer - while it's not a bad idea to purge the secondary, unless you're having a problem with oxidized beer I wouldn't worry about it.  If you're currently using, say, a 6.5 gallon carboy as a secondary for 5 gallon batches, a much simpler fix would be to start using a 5 gallon carboy as your secondary.  You want head space in the primary, but you want no head space in the secondary.  The bit of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; being given off in the secondary will fill a tiny head space without fail.  The more headspace you have, the more likely your beer will come in prolonged contact with oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-03T14:44:50.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1427" CreationDate="2010-02-03T15:15:06.267" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother. As Jack said, the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; given off during fermentation will provide a protective layer between your beer and the evil oxygen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be really safe, you could not use a secondary at all. I only use them now if I am adding fruit or something to the beer during fermentation. Instead I just leave the beer in the primary for 3–4 weeks and then bottle. Everything settles out nicely if you give it enough time and there is no risk of oxidation during transfer to a secondary. A lot of brewers are now doing this &quot;no secondary&quot; technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="479" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T23:57:36.057" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T23:57:36.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1432" CreationDate="2010-02-03T16:42:27.600" Score="10" ViewCount="42117" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my first bottling, I decided I wanted to try using half normal reused glass bottles with new bottle caps and half reused Grolsch beer bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the worst part of the process was having to drink the Grolsch beers. They are horrible and half of them were skunky (could it be because of the green bottle versus brown?), and the other half just weren't good at all. What I noticed was that all of the normal bottles that I cleaned and sanitized tasted fine, but the Grolsch bottles tasted skunky, but only at the top of the bottle. Once I had been drinking a little bit further into the bottle, the skunkiness went away. Before I bottled it, it was hard to make sure the cap was fully sanitized. I closed the bottle with the sanitizer in it, and tipped the sanitized solution toward the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else noticed this problem with using Grolsch beer bottles? Are they just not a very good bottle to use? I think after my experience, I would not recommend them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="473" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T05:23:24.033" Title="Using Grolsch &quot;Premium Lager&quot; bottles for bottling" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1431" CreationDate="2010-02-03T17:20:57.333" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would fully immerse the bottles in sanitizer to make sure the lids got dealt with adequately, and boil the rubber gaskets in water like you would with normal bottle caps. That should really take care of all the sanitation issues. Due to the bottles being green, I would highly recommend keeping them away from light if at all possible.&#xA;I have some friends that use these bottles with no ill effects, so I know it can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2010-02-03T17:20:57.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1431" CreationDate="2010-02-03T17:35:38.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Green beer bottles lead to light contamination, in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not recommend you use green bottles.  If you want bottles with bale stoppers, you can buy them, although they are expensive in comparison to regular bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there is a lot of controversy regarding light struck beer.  I say why bother risking it.  Recycle the Grolsh bottles and be done with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-02-03T17:35:38.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1435" CreationDate="2010-02-03T18:16:33.853" Score="19" ViewCount="16409" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a community wiki post. Anybody with more than 100 reputation can edit it. You may also post your own answer. I get no reputation if you vote the question up or down, however, please vote up if you think it is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-25T21:02:53.780" LastActivityDate="2010-02-25T21:02:53.780" Title="[WIKI] How Do You Calculate Original Gravity?" Tags="|specific-gravity|original-gravity|calculations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-02-03T18:16:33.853" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1434" CreationDate="2010-02-03T18:22:17.867" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is a community wiki post. Anyone with more than 100 reputation may improve it. I get no reputation points for votes.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Definition&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific gravity (SG) is a measure of density. By convention, pure water has a SG of 1.000. Substances denser than water have a higher specific gravity. For example, if a beer has an OG of 1.050, it is 5% heavier than the same &lt;strong&gt;volume&lt;/strong&gt; of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In Beer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stuff that makes beer heavier than water is (mostly) sugars. By measuring the specific gravity of wort or beer you are &lt;em&gt;implicitly&lt;/em&gt; reading its sugar content.&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt; Measurements of Specific Gravity can only guess about the sugar content, since other things in solution, like alcohol, change the sample's density.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Calculating&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;PPG &amp;amp; Potential&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sugars like malt extracts have a &quot;points per pound per gallon&quot; (ppg) rating. PPG is calculated by combining one pound of extract and enough pure water to make one gallon. The extract's rating is then the specific gravity of this solution. Usually, the supplier of a malt extract will list its ppg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, suppose you have a pound of honey and you want to calculate its ppg.  Mix the honey and enough water to make a one gallon solution. A hydrometer reading a SG of 1.026 means the honey's ppg is 26.&lt;sup&gt;††&lt;/sup&gt; Sometimes, this is written as a &quot;potential&quot; of 1.026.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt; you can not add a pound of honey to a gallon of water. The honey takes up volume by itself. The &lt;em&gt;total solution&lt;/em&gt; must be one gallon for a correct measurement of potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Extracts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we can calculate the SG of one pound of extract in a one gallon solution. To arrive at the SG of an arbitrary weight of extract in a one gallon solution, multiply the number of pounds of extract by it's ppg. If your volume is larger, say five gallons, divide by the volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Extract SG = (Extract weight) x (Extract ppg) / (Solution Volume)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For example&lt;/strong&gt;, 7.3 pounds of malt extract with a ppg of 34 mixed to make 5 gallons yields a wort with specific gravity 1.050.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Grains&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Congress Mash&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like extracts, grains and adjuncts have a ppg rating. To get a grain's potential, the supplier performs what is known as a congress mash where the malt is ground into flour and steeped at a certain temperature for a set length of time. The gravity of the resulting wort is measured to arrive at the potential. This method determines the &lt;strong&gt;maximum&lt;/strong&gt; potential of the malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A congress mash would produce beer that is astringent and cloudy. Tannins from the husks and proteins in the kernel would carry over, making for a nasty brew.  Brewers instead crush grain and sacrifice a little malt potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Efficiency&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of potential lost to various brewhouse techniques (like crushing instead of grinding) is called &lt;em&gt;efficiency&lt;/em&gt;.  Typically a brewer accepts efficiencies between 60 and 80 percent of the maximum potential produced by a congress mash.  If a brewhouse produces a wort of 1.045 with malts of calculated maximum potential 1.064, the efficiency is 70%. (45 / 64 = 0.70)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking this into account:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Malt SG = (Malt weight) x (Malt ppg) x (Brewhouse efficiency) / (Solution Volume)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Adding It All Up&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining malts and extracts with different potential is also simple. Calculate the resulting specific gravity of each individually, then sum the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try this&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With a 70% brewhouse efficiency, 5.5 gallons final volume, and this recipe, calculate the SG&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;3 lbs Light DME (1.034 potential)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1.2 lbs Munich DME (1.036 potential)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;8 oz Crystal 60 steeping grain (1.033 potential)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The answer&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;3 lbs x 34 ppg / 5.5 gal = 18.5 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1.2 lbs x 36 ppg / 5.5 gal = 7.9 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;0.5 lbs x 33 ppg x 0.7 efficiency / 5.5 gal = 2.1 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;18.5 + 7.9 + 2.1 = 28.5 or &lt;strong&gt;1.0285 original gravity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Assumptions&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All measurements are in American &quot;standard&quot; units, not metric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The density of water &amp;amp; wort change with temperature. When taking SG readings, be sure to correct for temperature. When quoting SG measurement the temperature of the sample should be unambiguous.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;References&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brewing Techniques: &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue1.3/manning.html&quot;&gt;Understanding Specific Gravity and Extract&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HomebrewTalk Wiki: &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Malts%5FChart&quot;&gt;Malts Chart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;† Other scales, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Plato&quot;&gt;Plato&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Brix&quot;&gt;Brix&lt;/a&gt;, are &lt;em&gt;explicit&lt;/em&gt; measurements of &lt;strong&gt;sucrose&lt;/strong&gt; content in a known volume of water. They measured SG by combining quantities of sucrose with water to a known volume, for example, one liter. They then measured the refractive index of the solutions. Because of this method, these scales are measurements of known quantities of sugar. Also understand that the refractive measurements were calibrated with sucrose or fructose -- generally not found in beer. While these sugars are very similar to maltose &amp;amp; dextrose, the scales are just a little off. Be consistent with your measurement methods and it won't matter much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;†† If you don't want to waste an entire pound of extract, two ounces honey &lt;em&gt;by weight&lt;/em&gt; and pure water topped off until you have two cups &lt;em&gt;by volume&lt;/em&gt; will give you the same concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-04T15:33:57.373" LastActivityDate="2010-02-04T15:33:57.373" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-02-03T18:22:17.867" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1437" CreationDate="2010-02-04T02:13:37.740" Score="9" ViewCount="1778" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so I made a mental error tonight when I was bottling and put 5 gallons worth of dried malt extract into 2 gallons of wort. I didn't realize the mistake until I had everything bottled. So now what do I do? Do I have to worry about the beers exploding? If not, when I think they're ready to be opened, if I chill them down quite a bit will I be alright opening them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such a dumb move. I thought maybe it was just under-attenuated, but then I realized my mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:17:37.427" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T12:17:37.427" Title="Massively Over-Carbonated Beer...What Do I Do?" Tags="|carbonation|bottling|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1436" CreationDate="2010-02-04T04:20:23.637" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You will have bottle bombs.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily for you it's not too late, but you're in for some careful work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitize a fermenter and airlock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill a bucket or tub with sanitizer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the bottles in the bucket to sanitize the outside. Sanitize your bottle opener.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncap them and carefully pour their contents into the fermenter. Do not splash. Sanitize your bottle opener frequently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the gravity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seal up the fermenter &amp;amp; stick an airlock in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it sit until the gravity drops back around the desired final gravity (possibly 2 weeks).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest risk with this procedure is infection. Be very thorough with your sanitary technique. A secondary concern should be introducing too much oxygen to the beer. Be gentle when you pour, avoid splashing and do not run the beer down the side of the bucket too far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-05T14:41:22.580" LastActivityDate="2010-02-05T14:41:22.580" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1415" CreationDate="2010-02-04T07:29:47.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks Mark, I've wrestled with this for awhile.  Funny, 20 years brewing in a vacuum... the simple concept of a weight and dental floss never occurred to me... I suppose that says something about my intellect....  I think I love this website.  No more loose pellets in my secondary carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-02-04T07:29:47.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1401" CreationDate="2010-02-04T07:55:41.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me it was sort of a trial-and-error thing.  When trying to learn about a given style of beer, I would typically buy a kit that lists all the ingredients.  Some suppliers will tell you everything that's in the recipe, while others (like William's Brewing) won't.  So I'd buy a recipe kit and note the grain and hops in it and then make that recipe and note the flavors.  Then I'd try the same recipe with different hops and note the difference, with the grain mix being a control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I got a basis-- making a few of the same styles from different recipes -- then I started looking online for &quot;clone&quot; recipes for specific beers I liked.  For me it was IPAs and IIPAs so I was looking for Blind Pig, Pliny the Elder and Racer 5.  That gave me an idea for the hops that make those beers tick.  So I bought the hops, picked a grain mix from my past experience and made some beer.  On some specialty hops, once you crack the hop vacuum seal, you'll know you've hit or missed because the smell is so distinct.  Now you've got your own recipe, so you can try different hops and know the diff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, you'll get to the point where you can spot all the common hops (cascade, hallertau, willamette) and some distinct specialty hops (simcoe, amarillo, nelson) from the smell every time someone pours you a pint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this assumes you've read books and blogs like others recommended above and have a basic idea about the various generalities:  which are generally bittering hops, aroma hops and which are better suited to flavoring.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never found IBUs to be a very useful measurement of a finished beer's bitterness.  It's a bit too blunt for me.  You can have bitterness that manifests as skunk piss or you can have bitterness that manifests as grapefruit or passionfruit and the two are radically different.  A hop's Alpha will give you an idea about how much to use to achieve a given IBU... but won't tell you how much to use to achieve a given flavor or aroma.  Big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line:  brew some beer and you'll figure it out and have fun doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-02-04T07:55:41.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1431" CreationDate="2010-02-04T20:01:01.097" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use green Grolsch bottles all the time, without problems. The bottles don't see light until I crack them open. Fill, close, box to carbonate, and then to the firdge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I leave the cages and ceramic tops on the bottles when soaking in sanitizer, but I boil the gaskets separately, I don't trust a sanitizing solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the flavor of Grolsch, I guess it's an acquired taste, but that is one of my favorite hot-weather beers, hand down. I buy by the case, so they're enclosed and more protected from UV light, I would imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2010-02-04T20:01:01.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1381" CreationDate="2010-02-04T20:50:36.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saccharomyces cerevisiae has a barm flocculation pattern, which means ale yeast floats to the top when it flocculates.  This is because the more open structure of the yeast is caught by the rising carbon dioxide.  After fermentation is complete and your specific gravity has stopped decreasing, drop the temperature of your beer below 46˚F (7.8˚C), the yeast will drop within 24 hours.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="372" LastActivityDate="2010-02-04T20:50:36.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1449" CreationDate="2010-02-05T16:40:37.580" Score="11" ViewCount="33165" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine that brew-day rolls around and you find yourself without an airlock for your carboy or bucket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What other things can you use in it's stead?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further imagine that you do not have the materials for a blow-off tube. Touch on infection risk and what to do if you also do not have a stopper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspiration for this question goes to &lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/whatsbilldoing/status/8677928235&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WhatsBillDoing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-20T14:32:51.423" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T11:04:49.517" Title="Airlock Alternatives" Tags="|airlock|equipment|fermenter|alternatives|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1446" CreationDate="2010-02-05T17:22:06.667" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no idea if this would work, but if you were using a carboy couldn't you just stretch a balloon over the top and put a few small holes in it with a pin? I would think the hole would seal up, but open if there is enough pressure from the CO2 and allow the gas to escape without letting oxygen in. Obviously I have never tried this, but your question got me thinking and I think maybe this would work in a pinch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-02-05T17:22:06.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1446" CreationDate="2010-02-05T17:23:54.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a fun game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about a condom with a small hole poked in it? Lubricant free, of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is definitely a slight chance of contamination, but a pin prick of a hole is better than open fermentation. And the condom should be a tight enough fit to make a seal around the neck of the carboy. Might need to buy Magnums though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-02-05T17:23:54.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1446" CreationDate="2010-02-05T18:14:17.733" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sanitary piece of aluminum foil crimped over the top or even a plastic baggy with a rubber band on the outside (either use a new roll/box or pour some of your favorite high proof liquor on it just to be sure) should do the trick.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bacteria and wild yeast in the air typically move with air currents (cough/sneeze/fan/air vent...), but without any air current they will generally drift downward (its raining bacteria!).  That being said, some crimped foil or baggy over the top will prevent any bacteria/wild yeast from falling into the fermentor (they won't drift 'up' as easily) while allowing CO2/fermentation junk to simply come out the bottom.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;here is a yeast starter as an example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.manskirtbrewing.com/starter.shtml&quot;&gt;http://www.manskirtbrewing.com/starter.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="456" LastActivityDate="2010-02-05T18:14:17.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1446" CreationDate="2010-02-05T18:31:26.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find a huge plastic bin with a top that you can put your fermenter in.&#xA;Sanitize the walls of the bin.&#xA;Put in the carboy of wort.&#xA;Pitch a huge starter... and welcome to the world of open fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT with addition:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I suppose you could just as well put an inverted glass cup over the top of a carboy.  That would keep stuff from drifting in from above.  I might have to try this sometime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-02-05T19:39:35.320" LastActivityDate="2010-02-05T19:39:35.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-05T18:36:11.397" Score="8" ViewCount="8736" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to crush malt if you don't have a mill at home?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;How much malt would you venture to crush that way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T22:21:26.493" Title="Crushing malt without a mill" Tags="|crush|malt|grain|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1451" CreationDate="2010-02-05T18:38:14.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have put malt in a 1 gallon ziplock bag and crushed it with a rolling pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done up to 5 pounds that way in the past.  It was tough but it worked.  I am sure efficiency suffered.  Although, I never experienced any tannin issues from over crushing the hulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also used the bottom of a flat drinking glass.  But that was just for a few ounces and pressing down on the malt with a glass seems scary as the glass can break in your hand.  Probably not the best way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="13839" LastEditDate="2017-10-02T20:41:00.930" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T20:41:00.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1477" CreationDate="2010-02-05T18:44:16.907" Score="4" ViewCount="5169" Body="&lt;p&gt;WhiteLabs provides these two great American Ale yeast strains (among others).&#xA;WLP051 (California Ale V yeast) and WLP001 (California Ale Yeast)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences in these two strains and what happened to California Ale II, III and IV?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relate, personal experience with these yeast if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-09T03:20:00.230" Title="WLP001 v. WLP051" Tags="|yeast|ale|fermentation|flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1466" CreationDate="2010-02-05T18:45:49.157" Score="11" ViewCount="572" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is attentuation?&#xA;How does it effect beer flavor and quality?&#xA;How is is calculated and why do I need to know it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-08T14:12:46.460" Title="What is attentuation?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1451" CreationDate="2010-02-05T18:58:18.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll answer with a method that you shouldn't use - don't use a coffee grinder.  It's pretty obvious that you don't want to use a blade grinder, but I thought about using a burr grinder set to the coarsest setting to mildly crush my grains.  Before doing so, though, I searched the web and all accounts I read basically said it's called a grinder and not a crusher for a reason.  Don't use a coffee grinder to crush your grains.  Even on the coarsest setting you'll still over-pulverize your grains and end up with tannin problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-05T18:58:18.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1458" CreationDate="2010-02-05T19:35:53.917" Score="3" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does the term &quot;continental&quot; mean when referring to malts?&#xA;I have seen that term used before, mainly when sourcing pilsner malt.&#xA;Is it just a different way of saying pilsner malt that has been grown and malted in Europe?&#xA;Maybe I am way off base.  I can get domestic Pilsner malt, so I assume &quot;continental&quot; means &lt;em&gt;not domestic&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T02:51:14.167" Title="Continental Pilsner Malt" Tags="|ingredients|malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1454" CreationDate="2010-02-05T21:03:30.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attenuation is the percentage of fermentables actually consumed by your yeast.  It's easiest to calculate &quot;apparent attenuation,&quot; which is simply (OG - FG) / OG.  This is called apparent because it does not take into account the specific gravity of the alcohol that has been produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercially available homebrewer's yeast always lists it's expected attenuation range.  From this range, you can can calculate what your expected final gravity will be based on your starting gravity.  It's important to know this because it's a way of making sure you don't bottle too early.  If you bottled when airlock activity stopped without knowing the attenuation of your brew, you might find out that the bottling activity woke up some sleeping yeast, who then found plenty of yummy fermentables to eat in addition to your priming sugar, and you'll wake up one night to the sounds of exploding glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-05T21:03:30.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1456" CreationDate="2010-02-05T21:17:17.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Continental means that the malt came from The Continent - Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=define:continental&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Definition&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;em&gt;of or pertaining to or typical of Europe; &quot;a Continental breakfast&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-05T21:17:17.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-06T00:53:01.290" Score="11" ViewCount="1273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can never get a grip on how often I'll need to refill my C02. Sometimes it seems to last forever other times it seems very quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, if you are just using C02 to pour, how many soda kegs can you get through on the same tank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many kegs do you get if you are also force carbonating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastActivityDate="2010-02-06T04:32:40.663" Title="How long does 5lb of C02 last you?" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1459" CreationDate="2010-02-06T04:32:40.663" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If all your seals are airtight&lt;/em&gt; a 5 pound tank should last you many kegs. Too many for me to keep count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad gaskets, improperly seated poppets and bad hose connectors or clamps cause small leaks that will drain your CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in no time. Some keggers only connect the gas line to the keg when it starts to peter out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-06T04:32:40.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-06T05:32:20.510" Score="4" ViewCount="1092" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed in some beers, (nugget nectar, dbl. trouble, founders harvest and sublimely self-rightous ale in particular) an aroma/flavor of marijuana.  I think Columbus/Tomohawk hops have somthing to do with this (I could be wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone could shed some light on this subject matter, as to which hop varietals lend this aroma/flavor, it would be quite enlightening...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="bryan" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:31:07.447" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T12:54:58.333" Title="Weed Aroma/Flavor?" Tags="|hops|aroma|flavor|ingredients|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1461" CreationDate="2010-02-06T06:48:13.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering that hops are from the same family (Cannabaceae) as marijuana and hemp, that's not as outrageous as it may seem. Summit hops in particular, have an intensely 'weedy' aroma. I had an all Summit IPA shortly after the hop was introduced and it smelled (and tasted a bit) like bong water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="480" LastActivityDate="2010-02-06T06:48:13.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-06T13:06:44.240" Score="4" ViewCount="703" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will dry yeast do any good when brewing a lager or is it necessary that you use a liquid one? I am talking about making some kind of starter with the yeast, not just pitching it into the fermenter. How much difference in flavor does it make? Do dry yeasts make a descent lagering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T03:36:25.693" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T03:36:25.693" Title="Using Granular Yeast in a Lager" Tags="|beer|yeast|lager|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2010-02-07T13:52:49.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dried yeast is a perfectly good product to use, and it will yield appropriate flavour characteristics for the type of strain you decide to use.  The biggest difference with dried yeast is that it has a lot more trehalose than liquid yeast, about 12-15% of the dried weight.  Trehalose is just a disaccharide made up of two glucoses.  Its role is to protect the yeast cell from extra cellular stresses, like in this instance dehydration.  Many breweries will use dried yeast for specialities because dried yeast has a longer shelf life than the liquid ones.  So there is no reason to worry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be careful though when preparing your yeast for pitching!  Make sure that you mix the yeast with sterile water or wort before pitching into your beer.  Use 10 times the amount of wort as to the yeast’s dry weight.  Try to get the temperature of your wort as close to 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius) as possible when mixing the two together.  This will improve your yeasts viability and fermentation performance.  Rehydration at lower temperatures will hurt your yeasts viability. Mix the wort with the yeast for 5 minutes before pitching it into your lager.  I recommended inoculating the slurry into your final beer at 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius) for optimum results.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="372" LastActivityDate="2010-02-07T13:52:49.387" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1381" CreationDate="2010-02-07T14:16:24.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your comment, I kind of suck at answering questions and I am trying to get better at it.  Sorry if I am ever to vague.  I’ll improve I promise.  Anyway, the whole thing with ale yeast verse lager yeast flocculation patterns lies in the shape the flocs make when suspended in beer. Ale flocs are almost like a parachute that gets caught by the rising carbon dioxide bubbles, which lifts the yeast up to the top.    When you drop the temperature of the beer the yeast are no longer happy and they go into an almost hibernation like state.  So they are no longer making ethanol or carbon dioxide out of your sugary wort.  With the absence of CO2 bubbles the yeast sinks to the bottom because nothing is keeping them up.  If you dropped the temperature of your beer before fermentation finished, (so maltotriose and maltose sugars are still in the wort) than when you warm the beer back up the yeast will wake up and happily continue eating the sugar and making carbon dioxide and alcohol.  If there is enough sugar there to produce an abundant amount of carbon dioxide your yeast will float to the top, if there isn’t they may just float up a little bit or even stay on the bottom of your vessel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all of the sugar was assimilated by the yeast before you dropped the temperature and you warm the beer back up, the yeast would do a few different things, one of which is start to convert by-products of the fermentation process like the vicinal diketone diacetyl into a flavourless compound called 2,3 butanediol.  The yeast would start to float in the beer again, but it probably wouldn’t rise as rapidly to the top, instead the beer would look a little cloudy.  As far as the other fermentations are concerned maybe not enough yeast was pitched to create a rapid fermentation so there wasn’t an abundant amount of CO2 to raise all of the yeast up to the top of the vessel as happened with this one.  Maybe you just over pitched this last fermentation and this is why you were seeing more yeast than usual.  An increase amount of oxygen in your beer would create sterols and the ability for your yeast to continue budding new daughter cells.  If you over oxygenate your wort, a lot of yeast would be made.  This would create a lot of CO2 and yeast which may be what you saw floating around at the top.  If you pitched more precisely or did not over oxygenate previous batches of beer this same effect would be less noticeable.  Did I help at all?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="372" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-07-13T08:03:02.087" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T08:03:02.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1454" CreationDate="2010-02-07T15:48:23.047" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attenuation&lt;/strong&gt; is a measurement of a beer's drop in specific gravity during fermentation. It is expressed as a percentage of original gravity and calculated by (OG - FG) / OG. We measure &lt;strong&gt;apparent attenuation&lt;/strong&gt; because the alcohol produced during fermentation is lighter than water meaning OG readings are not truly measurements of the sugars in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most often homebrewers use the apparent attenuation listed by their yeast supplier to predict final gravity, the stopping point of fermentation. Suppose you brewed a pre-prohibition lager with an OG of 11.4 ºPlato and chose &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb%5Fyeaststrain%5Fdetail.cfm?ID=132&quot;&gt;WYeast 2206&lt;/a&gt; (Bavarian Lager). WYeast lists the attenuation &lt;em&gt;range&lt;/em&gt; at 73-77%. From this you know that fermentation will cease when the beer's FG is between 8.3 &amp;amp; 8.7 ºP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attenuation is a more true measurement of fermentation activity than anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When designing beers you can use attenuation to influence the flavor of the finished product.  The higher a strain's attenuation, the drier the resultant beer. Say, for example, you want to turn your favorite IPA, made with White Labs &lt;a href=&quot;http://whitelabs.com/beer/strains%5Fwlp001.html&quot;&gt;WLP001&lt;/a&gt;, into a Double IPA.  Knowing that you need a maltier beer to balance the big hop flavor you could choose &lt;a href=&quot;http://whitelabs.com/beer/strains%5Fwlp008.html&quot;&gt;WLP008&lt;/a&gt; which has a lower attenuation range, but similar flavor profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-08T14:12:46.460" LastActivityDate="2010-02-08T14:12:46.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1425" CreationDate="2010-02-08T13:54:31.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the comments in Jack Smiths post, however, I'll offer this answer to the Original Posters question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the &quot;racking from&quot; and the &quot;racking to&quot; vessels protected from light during the racking process, the short time the beer spends flowing through the tubing should produce a miniscule amount of skunk and be undetectable.&#xA;The amount of UV from CFLs is fairly mild and shouldn't harm the beer during the &quot;quick&quot; passage vessel to vessel.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;So no you should not worry about your CFLs while racking...I don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the other post referenced in JackSmiths answer links to a great info about the speed of skunking; and scientific data regarding the speed at which CFLs can cause skunking has yet to bubble to the surface of the homebrewing community/knowledge base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-08T13:54:31.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1469" CreationDate="2010-02-08T14:02:09.957" Score="5" ViewCount="393" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, just out of curiosity... if I wanted / needed to relocate my primary fermentation carboy to another area of the house, what would be the safest way to do this, without risk of infection? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that picking the better bottle carboys up can cause the water in the fermentation lock to get sucked into the carboy, so would it make sense to just remove the airlock temporarily, cap the carboy with foil or something, move it, and then replace the fermentation lock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="platypotamus" LastActivityDate="2010-07-03T21:40:23.203" Title="moving a better bottle carboy" Tags="|better-bottle|fermenter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1468" CreationDate="2010-02-08T14:10:38.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tip it slightly so you can get your hands under it.  Get an arm underneath it as you pick it up.  That will keep the bottom from flexing downward creating that &quot;suck&quot; in the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not comfortable with that, then you can indeed sanitize some foil and use that.  Or I'd recommend just popping off the airlock and refilling it with a small amount of sanitizer, so if any does get sucked in it won't be a big deal.  I'd only do that with a no rinse sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have had several of these suck water back in on my in the past and it hasn't been a big problem as far as contamination goes.  It just doesn't feel good when it happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would strongly urge that if you are going to move it, that you should put it in a milk crate or something as you move it.  Because you are going to have to move it again when you go to rack it for bottling or what have you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-08T14:10:38.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1335" CreationDate="2010-02-08T15:38:23.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current kitchen space is limited and one of my biggest problems is that I don't have cabinet space for my carboy. One of the things I do to keep fermentation steady is cover the carboy with newspaper so light is not an issue. I also keep it in a corner of the kitchen farthest from direct light and away from baseboard heat so the temperature stays under control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="482" LastActivityDate="2010-02-08T15:38:23.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1468" CreationDate="2010-02-08T15:53:35.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the better bottle dry-lock. It doesn't allow any air in so when you pick it up the flexing is minimal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't help you at the moment (brewchez's answer is what I'd recommend for the time being), but I've appreciated having the dry-lock for this very reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-02-08T15:53:35.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1474" CreationDate="2010-02-08T17:48:59.997" Score="10" ViewCount="1901" Body="&lt;p&gt;My latest brew has left a ring from the krausen just past the neck of my Better Bottle. I am on my third soak with a little bleach and warm water. Usually this does the trick, but I'm almost thinking at this point I may need to use something (soft) to scrub it off. Any advice for dealing with difficult deposits in a Better Bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="482" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:30:07.353" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T12:30:07.353" Title="Cleaning difficult krausen ring off Better Bottle" Tags="|cleaning|better-bottle|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1331" CreationDate="2010-02-08T17:51:33.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I go back and forth between a 10 gallon rectangular cooler with a bazooka screen and a 5 gallon cylindrical Igloo cooler with a false bottom. The igloo is the way to go if your kitchen is really tiny, in my opinion, as it has a much smaller footprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard of people mashing in a pot and putting it in the oven to maintain temperature. Never tried that method, but I could see it working pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2010-02-08T17:51:33.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1472" CreationDate="2010-02-08T18:22:43.177" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/powdered-brewery-wash.html&quot;&gt;PBW&lt;/a&gt;. It is magic. Seriously. Put a bit in there with warm water, and the krausen should go away in 30 minutes. I once put a touch in my coffee mug, and the stains from months of not washing it diligently were erased. It's magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-02-08T18:22:43.177" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2010-02-08T20:06:42.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading over the comments from my last post I see my previous answer must have been incredibly confusing.  Let me try again.  The yeast being used is dried.  To make it wet and living you need to add clean water or preferably clean wort to it.  Wort is the sugar water extracted from your grain.  The temperature you should make the yeast wet at should be close to 38 degrees Celsius.  If the temperature is any lower than this, your fermentation won’t be as quick or active.  For any of you who are interested re-hydration at 38 degrees Celsius will yield 60-70% viability, 20 degrees Celsius 30-40% viability and 4 degrees Celsius 20-25% viability.  This is a separate process from adding the yeast to the beer.  When you are wetting the yeast with wort or water you are making something called yeast slurry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have made your yeast slurry.  Let it sit for five to ten minutes stirring occasionally.  The beer you are making is totally separate.  The temperature of your beer can be 20 degrees Celsius, but since this is a lager, it can also be lower than 20.  Most lager strains will work happily at 13 degrees Celsius.  Once your slurry is mixed you will pour the slurry along with your soon to be beer into whatever you are using for a fermentation vessel.  This is called pitching.  You are not throwing the bag of yeast directly into the wort and this wort is not at some outrageous temperature.  The high temperature is just for making the slurry.  This temperature will not kill the yeast it will make it more alive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="372" LastActivityDate="2010-02-08T20:06:42.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1472" CreationDate="2010-02-08T20:07:02.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;PBW is an excellent choice as PJ mentioned.  I agree with him regarding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is a cheaper alternative, albeit not as effective. You can use sodium percarbonate, or as they call in in the landry isle, Oxyclean.  I use a cheap generic Oxyclean (I think I use SunPower or something like that) to clean most of my better bottles and even glass carboys.  Couple of big scoops of it into hot water and soak for a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if that ring is a real problem, PBW really does the job and does it well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-02-08T20:07:02.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1453" CreationDate="2010-02-08T20:24:58.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;WLP001&#xA;This yeast is famous for its clean flavors, balance and ability to be used in almost any style ale. It accentuates the hop flavors and is extremely versatile.&#xA;Attenuation: 73-80%&#xA;Flocculation: Medium&#xA;Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 68-73 °F&#xA;(20-23 °C)&#xA;Alcohol Tolerance: High&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used this yeast myself.  Its a good yeast, clean, with good attenuation.  There are a TON of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains%5Fwlp001.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;good reviews&lt;/a&gt; on it on White Labs website itself, where, I shamelessly ganked the above statistics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;WLP051&#xA;From Northern California. This strain is more fruity than WLP001, and slightly more flocculent. Attenuation is lower, resulting in a fuller bodied beer than with WLP001. &#xA;Attenuation: 70-75%&#xA;Flocculation: Medium to High&#xA;Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 66-70°F&#xA;Alcohol Tolerance: Medium-High&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't used WLP051 myself, so I can't comment. There are a bunch of user reviews of it and its characteristics on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains%5Fwlp051.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Lab's site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what happened to California Ale II, III, and IV, but it's possible that those are pro-grade or brewery specific yeasts that White Labs are not allowed to sell to the general public. They may also be so close to California I or California V that it doesn't make sense to release them.  They may also be elements of another yeast I have listed below.  It may be a good choice for you as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;WLP060 American Ale Yeast Blend&#xA;Our most popular yeast strain is WLP001, California Ale Yeast. This blend celebrates the strengths of California- clean, neutral fermentation, versatile usage, and adds two other strains that belong to the same 'clean/neutral' flavor category. The additional strains create complexity to the finished beer. This blend tastes more lager like than WLP001. Hop flavors and bitterness are accentuated, but not to the extreme of California. Slight sulfur will be produced during fermentation. &#xA;Attenuation: 72-80%&#xA;Flocculation: Medium&#xA;Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 68-72°F&#xA;Alcohol Tolerance: Medium High&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains%5Fwlp060.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reviews&lt;/a&gt; for this yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies to White Labs again for shamelessly ganking information from their web site. Anything in italics is theirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-02-08T20:24:58.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1453" CreationDate="2010-02-09T03:20:00.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yeast strain chart on MrMalty.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It lists the origin for most White Labs and WYeast strains.  Could be helpful if you want to try some beers that use a particular yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastActivityDate="2010-02-09T03:20:00.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-09T15:57:06.587" Score="5" ViewCount="4139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to start a small brewey in my town in Ohio.  Nothing huge to start.  Does anyone have any advise for me as to equipment that I have to have or can I just use homebrewing equipment to start?  And any other advise on licensing and laws would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Frank " LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-02-09T16:34:19.467" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T11:23:23.183" Title="Ohio Laws on starting my brewery" Tags="|commercial|legal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1479" CreationDate="2010-02-09T16:23:49.087" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to BrewAdvice.com Frank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is honestly a little too broad and all-encompassing for this site, but I'll try to give you some leads. Your best bet is to start reading, start researching, and start talking to people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A word of caution before diving into craft beer, as the market isn't as fertile as it used to be thanks to the plethora of new breweries hitting store shelves. Many entrepreneurs are having feasibility studies performed to see if their local market can support and grow a brewery. &lt;a href=&quot;https://brewerybusinessplan.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewery Business Plan&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://feasibilitystudy.co&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Feasibility Study Company&lt;/a&gt; are both run by the same company, but their studies are so accurate, they've been used by commercial lenders to issue pre-approval letters for loans. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just getting started, check out the &lt;a href=&quot;https://craftbrewerynetwork.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Craft Brewery Network&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersassociation.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewer's Association&lt;/a&gt;. They're a good jumping off point. They also have a long list of links and other resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few million blogs on the topic. &lt;a href=&quot;http://startingabrewery.wordpress.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mine&lt;/a&gt; is one. &lt;a href=&quot;http://entrebrewer.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brian's&lt;/a&gt; is another. There are a lot more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you currently have homebrewing equipment? Chances are it won't be enough to start a brewery. It's just not cost-effective to brew 5 gallons at a time. But sharing with friends is a good way to get feedback on your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as laws and licensing go, check out Anda's blog - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legallibations.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Legal Libations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some books you might want to check out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381896&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Starting Your Own Brewery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0470050454&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewing Up A Business&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, &lt;a href=&quot;http://probrewer.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ProBrewer.com&lt;/a&gt; is a great resource for articles, a forum, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should get you started. Come back and ask more questions as you learn. There's a wealth of knowledge out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="16125" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T11:23:23.183" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T11:23:23.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1479" CreationDate="2010-02-09T16:24:51.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to speaking to your state's liquor control board (if it has one) to find out what licenses you'll need to create alcohol products to sell, you'll want to check with your local health department to find out the rules regarding making consumables to sell.  In a lot of places, you can't make foodstuffs to sell commercially in a private household.  You have to use a commercial space or have a dedicated kitchen in your house that has no direct access to the rest of your house.  That is, to go from this kitchen to the rest of your house you have to exit the building and re-enter through the residential entrance.  You also often cannot use any of the equipment from your commercial kitchen in your own private kitchen.  Your local, county, or state health department, whichever applies, will be able to point you in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-09T16:24:51.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1031" CreationDate="2010-02-10T03:50:04.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew outside on a propane burner (5 gallon all grain batches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I make partial mash batches I can do it inside in the kitchen (but like was said above, getting a good boil is tough without a canning element).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A photo of my current setup: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/sudsymaggie/4318981367&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/sudsymaggie/4318981367&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="342" LastActivityDate="2010-02-10T03:50:04.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1493" CreationDate="2010-02-10T13:19:41.160" Score="13" ViewCount="7692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a corny keg that won't hold pressure unless it's kept at constant pressure at around 10 - 15 psi which apparently is enough to compress the seal against the opening of the keg enough to stop CO2 from leaking out.  I need to serve from this keg for an evening out of really short line (1 ft), which means that I'll be serving at something like 3 - 5 psi. That will immediately leak from the keg, since the pressure isn't high enough to hold the seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The keg leaks from the seal around the lid.  At some point in the life of the keg (prior to getting to me) the opening became slightly malformed.  I've changed the rings, the lid, and every piece of hardware on the keg.  I've tried coating the crap out of the lid with keg lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The keg is currently filled with beer which is keg conditioning (at 20 psi :P), so I can't currently make any physical changes to the keg unless it involves the lid somehow, since I can always re-pressurize.  I'd rather not move the beer out and back in again because of oxygenation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how I can get this keg to hold a low amount of pressure, even for just an evening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:29:07.153" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T22:40:50.500" Title="Corny keg that won't hold pressure." Tags="|corny-keg|keg|pressure|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1490" CreationDate="2010-02-10T13:30:29.217" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, go to your living room.  Trust me....&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Flip over your easy chair and shake it all around.  Trust me...&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Flip over your couch.  Don't eat the crusty old cheetos that fall out.  Trust me, I am not insane.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Gather up the loose change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlatch the lid, the keg pressure will keep the lid closed.  The wedge a penny under each foot of the lid latch, between the feet of the latch and the top of the keg body.  I hope that makes sense.  The pennies under each foot will force the latch handle to push UP more when you close it.  Pulling the lids lip UP against the underside lip of the keg opening.&#xA;If that's not enough Use two pennies per foot. Or a nickel and a dime; they are all diffenet thicknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a bit of a tricky process. But it can be done.  It doesn't hurt to apply more lube to the large O-ring again if you do depressurize while screwing around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, try turning the lid 180 degress in the process too.  I have a couple lids that just don't like to sit a certain way, when I turn them they seal up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-10T13:30:29.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-10T15:15:35.883" Score="8" ViewCount="1439" Body="&lt;p&gt;My hop bag came undone in my secondary while dry-hopping and now I have pellet hops directly in my beer. What is the best way to filter out the hops for bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="482" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:28:32.490" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T23:13:17.383" Title="Pellet Hops spilled out of bag in secondary. Advice?" Tags="|secondary|hops|dry-hop|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1496" CreationDate="2010-02-10T15:35:38.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No need to filter.  Just rack carefully from underneath them with the time comes.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Many people dry hop with pellets withou bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-10T15:35:38.730" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1496" CreationDate="2010-02-10T16:54:36.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used a bag when dry hopping, I just throw the pellets in. Usually after a week of dry hopping the hops are all at the bottom with any trub/yeast that settled out. I'd say to just rack as carefully as you already probably do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2010-02-10T16:54:36.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1398" CreationDate="2010-02-10T18:19:29.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Munton's beer kits always make light beers. They're not bad, but you have to add some more extracts on your own in order to have a good result. You can see that clearly by comparing the munton kits with the brewferm kits: while they use about the same amount of malt extract, munton's suggests you use it for about double the wort quantity brewferm does.&#xA;Personallly, when using Munton's kits, I choose either to add some extra DME and probably hops, or use more than one kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-02-10T18:19:29.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-13T16:55:39.963" Score="5" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few recipes that I want to reproduce &lt;em&gt;exactly the same&lt;/em&gt; every time I brew them.  The ingredients are always the same, but many things affect the final outcome. &lt;strong&gt;As an all-grain brewer, what tricks can I use to get consistent beer every time?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discuss compensating for factors such as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inconsistent crush&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Varying efficiencies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;%AA differences in hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I already have good temperature control during fermentation and mash.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-03-28T04:11:43.337" LastActivityDate="2010-03-28T04:11:43.337" Title="Getting Consistency" Tags="|consistency|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1504" CreationDate="2010-02-14T06:07:15.297" Score="8" ViewCount="4320" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're brewing faster than we can drink. Right now I've got 3 kegs on tap, 1 (primed) keg sitting in the garage (very cold), and 9 carboys ready to be kegged. My question is this -- how long will a primed keg last? Could I keg a beer, purge O2, pressurize with CO2, put it in storage and then put it on tap in 3, 6 or 9 months? If so, should I keep the keg cold? Or does that not matter? Any advice would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastActivityDate="2010-02-15T17:19:48.077" Title="How long will a keg keep?" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1503" CreationDate="2010-02-14T15:38:12.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the keg is properly sealed and stored cool, it'll last for a long time. The real issue, if you wind up storing it for months, is how well the beer style itself can age. If it's a barleywine it can age for a long time, but other styles won't hold up so well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2010-02-14T15:38:12.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1512" CreationDate="2010-02-14T16:51:10.947" Score="4" ViewCount="2957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pretty typical converted keg mash tun. Over the course of a sixty minute mash it loses 8-10º F.  My previous mash tun, a converted cooler would only drop a few degrees and I would like to be able to maintain a consistent temperature.  Instead of direct-firing, running the pump, wasting propane, overshooting the temperature and potentially scorching the wort, I want to insulate the tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The insulation should be able to take the heat of a burner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It should be easy to clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temperature of my mash should only drop a few degrees in an hour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I better maintain my mash temperature?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://picasaweb.google.com/dean.brundage/20100214Mashles?authkey=Gv1sRgCL-q88aPj6ORlwE&amp;amp;feat=directlink&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh4.ggpht.com/_pnQEXd93GTw/S3goVIqzwOI/AAAAAAAAAqM/sRmzt9dvQzg/s576/IMG_3163.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;Mash Tun&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.423" LastActivityDate="2010-02-20T14:37:37.560" Title="Insulating My Mash Tun" Tags="|insulation|mash-tun|mash|consistency|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-15T01:43:54.843" Score="4" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does any grain/malt that's name begins with &quot;Caramel&quot; or &quot;Crystal&quot; mean it is able to be steeped to extract the aroma, color and flavor?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am referring to grain/malts like Carapils, Caramunich, Caravienne, Carahell, Crystal Rye, Crystal Wheat, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am only able to do partial mashes with extracts at this time, but I don't want to be limited in styles I can produce and flavors I can get from specialty grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="bryan" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-15T14:22:06.190" LastActivityDate="2010-02-15T14:22:06.190" Title="Caramel/Crystal malts and Steeping" Tags="|steeping|crystal|grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1506" CreationDate="2010-02-15T04:25:35.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;In general, yes.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this month's issue of BYO (Vol. 16 No. 2) Bob Hansen, Manager of Technical Services at Briess Malt, warns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;... some American malt marketed as caramel, or crystal, malts are actually produced on a kiln and are only partially converted. These can be identified by cracking the kernels. If mealy starch is discovered in many of the kernels, the product was produced on a kiln or blended and will require conversion in a mash.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-15T04:25:35.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1509" CreationDate="2010-02-15T12:27:04.153" Score="5" ViewCount="5647" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed a Northern Brown extract kit on Saturday, hit the target OG.  Pitched yeast a little cold (63F), but activity was in full swing by yesterday morning.  Woke up this morning (Monday) to find that there was beer pushed out the top of the airlock - not a full on gusher, but significant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top of the fermentation bucket was bowed, so I cracked the lid a little to alleviate the pressure.  Is there anything else I should do besides re-sanitize the airlock and replace on top the fermenting bucket?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="437" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:23:47.880" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T12:23:47.880" Title="What do I do about beer coming out my airlock?" Tags="|fermentation|airlock|blow-off|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1508" CreationDate="2010-02-15T13:20:12.797" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best is when so much pressure builds up that the airlock is shot to the ceiling and your closet is splattered in fermentation goo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a 6.5 gallon carboy for 5 gallon batches&#xA;-and/or-&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a blow-off tube (&lt;a href=&quot;http://images.google.com/images?q=blowoff+tube&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;examples here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastActivityDate="2010-02-15T13:20:12.797" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1503" CreationDate="2010-02-15T14:25:01.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll tell you the same thing &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/284/beer-refrigeration-suggestions-long-term/295#295&quot;&gt;I told PJ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Drink More&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-02-15T14:25:01.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1505" CreationDate="2010-02-15T17:11:18.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also use a converted keg for my mash-tun and swear by Reflectix foil coated bubble insulation. This stuff comes in rolls from the big box hardware stores, isn't too expensive and the 24&quot; roll is exactly the right width to be wrapped around the keg multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cut slits in it to account for the thermometers and valves and also have a couple of disks of it to go over the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of all, I can quite easily remove it to clean the mash tun and it will take a little bit of heat if you direct fire, although it will melt at the bottom if you apply too much heat. Hopefully by insulating, you won't need to apply much if any heat during a 60 minute mash. One roll is usually enough to insulate two kegs so I replace mine about once a year once the holes start to get over-enlarged or I apply too much heat to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-02-15T17:11:18.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1503" CreationDate="2010-02-15T17:19:48.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figure that a beer that is kegged and purged of O2 and stored cool (&amp;lt;60°F) will last for up to a year without serious flaws. However, as Darknova said, the styles will change as they age. Usually for the better but that would depend on your taste. I almost never drink any of my beers until they are 2-3 months old. Not because I'm disciplined about aging but like you I always have a backlog to work through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-02-15T17:19:48.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1502" CreationDate="2010-02-15T17:27:47.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found the two most significant effects on consistency both come from temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermentation temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other factors certainly contribute but are simple to address through process, recipe etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature variables however seem much harder for the home brewer to address. Strike temperature and water volume in the mash are so subject to ambient temperature that they are almost impossible to get right every time. Air temperature and amount of air movement (wind) impact the ability to heat a mash so significantly with propane that any attempt to address mash temps other than through insulation is fraught with variables you can't control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equally, on the fermentation side, the strength of the yeast strain, the pace of fermentation, the cellar ambient temperatures and the amount of heat produced by the yeast themselves all work to combat your best planned fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to address these, I am in the process of converting to an electric HERMS system to combat the hot side variables by mashing inside, using indirect heat and a PID controlled heating element to get the best temperature control I can obtain. On the cold side, I think the chest freezer or refrigerator based fermentation chamber is the only cost effective option for a home brewer. Lots of projects like these are well documented on HBT and other sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-02-15T17:27:47.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1505" CreationDate="2010-02-15T19:38:09.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get a whole bunch of armaflex and wrap it around the mash tun.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xgy/R-100539553/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&amp;amp;storeId=10051&amp;amp;catalogId=10053&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xgy/R-100539553/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&amp;amp;storeId=10051&amp;amp;catalogId=10053&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the stuff looks cool to and plan I using it for my hot liquor tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2010-02-15T19:38:09.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-15T20:10:24.990" Score="6" ViewCount="779" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should I crash my beer first and then dry hop, or should I dry hop for a week and then crash cool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts, I should crash cool and then dry hop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reasons:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less likely to loose aromas at cooler&#xA;temperatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The beer will be ready to carbonate&#xA;sooner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cold will assit in preventing&#xA;spoilage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T13:17:33.240" Title="Dry Hopping and Crash Cooling" Tags="|dry-hop|crash-cool|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1516" CreationDate="2010-02-15T20:16:10.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;RT @UKBrewer Crash after dry hop. You may introduce some oxygen dry hopping and you'll want the yeast to take it up. Can't if it's crashed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2010-02-15T20:16:10.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1516" CreationDate="2010-02-15T20:35:09.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@TimWeber I think it doesn't matter. Dry hopping works b/c alpha-acids are soluble in alcohol. Temp may not matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/Brew-Strong-12-08-08-Dry-Hopping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Strong episode&lt;/a&gt; on this subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-15T20:35:09.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-15T21:08:19.920" Score="4" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which commercial beers (local and/or national) are bottle conditioned and still have viable yeast?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, what do commercial brewers do that renders the yeast unusable (pasteurization, filtering, too old, etc.)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related question about yeast culturing: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/197/how-to-grow-yeast&quot;&gt;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/197/how-to-grow-yeast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="456" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T12:54:24.467" Title="Harvesting commercial yeast" Tags="|yeast|grow|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1508" CreationDate="2010-02-15T21:42:31.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your second question - &quot;Is there anything else I should do besides re-sanitize the airlock and replace on top the fermenting bucket?&quot; - No, that's sufficient, assuming your krausen isn't still reaching the airlock hole.  If the krausen has backed off, just re-sanitize and re-insert your airlock.  Your risk of infection during the rapid primary phase is low due to how much CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is being generated and forced upward.  Airborne beasties can't really settle into the brew.  If your krausen is still reaching your airlock hole, however, then yeah, use a blow-off tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-15T21:42:31.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1525" CreationDate="2010-02-15T22:47:33.033" Score="6" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;While answering &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/726/insulating-my-mash-tun/732#732&quot;&gt;another question&lt;/a&gt;, about mash temperature, the question about conversion and how long it takes came up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is conversion? I think we all know its the process of enzymes converting the starch in the grain into different types of sugars but if most of the conversion takes place in the first 20 minutes, then why do we mash for 60 minutes or longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-03-02T14:50:34.100" Title="What is conversion?" Tags="|mash|conversion|efficiency|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1523" CreationDate="2010-02-15T23:38:14.367" Score="3" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I into my 3rd generation of homebrew ideology and need some input.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first, I was a dedicated workhorse of the early microbrew scene, constructing a a welded stainless 10 gallon outfit in my garage, digital, liquid yeast snob, culturing on agar agar, etc.  Then I brewed extract for convenience with more than a full time job, mostly for high gravity products.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'd like to get back into all grain for economics sake, buying hops by the pound, pre crushed grain, and getting fast starts with the newer high quality dry yeasts.  I don't mind spending extra effort, like making a starter or doubling up even when using dry yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am concerned about is the extra protiens that contribute to the trub base with grain in my preferred single stage blow-by in plastic fermenters.  I couldn't stand cleaning carboys with a blowby system, because their shape seriously makes it difficult.  I also am a freak about preferring not to rack at the exact time the brew is most vulnerable, early in fermentation when I get home from work and find my CO2 production has fallen off.  I like plastic for its ease of cleaning and the fact if I scratch it etc, I can throw it away.  Will the proteins and hop residuals seriously affect my attempts to make a nice daily drink (nothing I keep around to impress) without chances of off flavors if using a nuetral ale yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-17T17:31:48.763" LastActivityDate="2010-02-17T17:31:48.763" Title="Single stage/ two stage for all grain?" Tags="|all-grain|process|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1522" CreationDate="2010-02-16T00:06:02.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Relax, don't worry &amp;amp; have a homebrew&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many Australians use a technique called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=brew+in+a+bag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brew-in-a-Bag&lt;/a&gt;. It creates what I can only describe as a &lt;em&gt;shit-ton&lt;/em&gt; of trub in the fermenter. I've used this method as my pilot system with good results.  The 1-2 gallon batches I make are at least half protein and hop leftovers.  I have yet to detect a off-flavor I can attribute to this leftover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a two-day old fermentation. The 1.5 inch dark-gray band is beer, the rest is floating trub. I'll chill this near freezing for a week to drop that crap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh6.ggpht.com/_pnQEXd93GTw/S3wmo2UycgI/AAAAAAAAAtk/K1LnzHv3Ly4/s512/IMG_3199.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.550" LastActivityDate="2010-02-17T17:28:33.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1159" CreationDate="2010-02-16T09:12:27.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a few stuck sparges and have used a blow back method and manipulating the malt fines bed.  The important thing to remember is that you can recirculate heavily clouded runoff if the sparge is stuck moderately early.  Just collect the first 30 to 45 seconds worth of runoff in a small stock pot, mix with clean sparge water, and send it back through the mash.  Let your sparge run as normal afterwords.  I've never had it stuck for a second time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2010-02-16T09:12:27.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1521" CreationDate="2010-02-16T15:56:55.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;In the mash, starch is &lt;em&gt;converted&lt;/em&gt; into &lt;em&gt;sugar,&lt;/em&gt; which is further broken down to &lt;em&gt;fermentable &amp;amp; unfermentable&lt;/em&gt; sugars.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; of things going on in the mash. Like the question says, &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Conversion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;conversion&lt;/a&gt; is the process by which starch in the brewing grain is converted into sugar which can be used by yeast in fermentation. There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/The_Theory_of_Mashing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;conflicting&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-6.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sources&lt;/a&gt; citing the length of conversion. Once conversion is done all the available sugars are suspended in the sweet liquor and you could proceed to mash-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sugar&lt;/strong&gt; is a broad term referring to many types glucose molecules. Conversion produces long chains of glucose, most of which are not suited to fermentation. Maltose is a simple fermentable sugar produced by beta-amylase. This enzyme attacks glucose chains from either end, splitting off a maltose. Because it only actions the ends of sugar chains longer mashes allow it to break down a chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alpha-amylase breaks glucose chains at any branch. The longer alpha-amylase acts, the more &lt;em&gt;ends&lt;/em&gt; there are for beta-amylase to get at. However, many long-chain molecules produced by alpha are unfermentable. Dextrines are one such class of unfermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this knowledge the brewer can create mash conditions favoring one type of sugar or a mix.  For a malty, sweet beer allow alpha-amylase to work but limit beta. To dry out your beer rest longer in the temperature &amp;amp; pH range where beta-amylase thrives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;References&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/The_Theory_of_Mashing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Theory of Mashing&lt;/a&gt; (HomebrewTalk wiki)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How the Mash Works&lt;/a&gt; (How To Brew)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Starch_Conversion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Starch Conversion&lt;/a&gt; (BrauKaiser)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-03-02T14:50:34.100" LastActivityDate="2010-03-02T14:50:34.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1519" CreationDate="2010-02-16T20:25:18.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert on this by any means, given that I've never harvested, but I've read about it a bit, so I'll give an answer to get the discussion going on this interesting question.  The &quot;yeast&quot; chapter of How to Brew touches on this subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can harvest the yeast from any beer that's bottle conditioned.  For instance, I think most Belgian Trappist ales have harvestable yeast.  The last Chimay I had sure had a lot of sediment in it.  However, I don't have a complete list and I'm not sure which, if any, filter out the primary yeast and then add a different strain for conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option for harvesting commercial yeast is to visit a local microbrew.  Become friendly with the brewer there.  He may be willing to give you some of his yeast, as they tend to produce more than they can use.  I can't take credit for this suggestion.  It, too, comes from How to Brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-16T20:25:18.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-16T22:00:00.627" Score="6" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;When brewing a lager in an apartment, you will most probably use a small refrigerator for the lagering process. If the refrigerator does not allow you to choose the exact temperature, but instead you set it using a number of power levels (1,2,3 and so on), how do you achieve the small rising of the temperature for the diacetyl rest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-17T03:26:50.020" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T14:33:19.203" Title="Small Space &amp; Apartment Brewing: Diacetyl Rest" Tags="|lager|diacetyl-rest|fermentation-temperature|equipment|small-space|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1899" CreationDate="2010-02-17T00:43:31.677" Score="3" ViewCount="1604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am preparing to start a season of working up a solid, reasonably priced All grain American Ale on the brink of a high gravity beer.  Sierra Nevada's Torpedo balances sweet malt nicely against a hop construct that I am having a hard time figuring against other examples, Dogfishead 60 min +English examples like Young's Ramrod.  I've brewed many Barleywines where the bitterness seems to be through the roof until the malt checks in. Can someone clue me in on the IBUs versus base malt alone for this in between style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2010-04-12T14:01:07.463" Title="IBU rate of Sierra Nevada's &quot;torpedo&quot;?" Tags="|hops|bitterness|all-grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1366" CreationDate="2010-02-17T01:27:44.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably too late to enjoy with red sauce and shells, Paulaner's Special extra dry pils is perfect for food with a nice tomato-garlic flavor proflie.  Nice to start with about 6%abv.  As far as the debate about style about the website, I am here for info, with potentially friends added.  If you don't serve beer with homecooked food and you brew, you may not need the info provided by questions like this.  Let the folks who enjoy cooking ask them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2010-02-17T01:27:44.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1335" CreationDate="2010-02-17T01:51:40.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would employ a technique welders and foundry men use, which is called a heat-sink.  If you are fermenting in glass, you have a small example of a heat-sink which is a thin vessel made primarily of sand.  The vessel distrubutes heat slowly throught the walls due to the sheer amount of molecular product in the way of a transfer.  You can maximize the heat sink potential by attaching other cool objects to your fermenter, like a jacket or preferably two vertical &quot;c&quot; shaped units of highly dense products like lite cast cement using vermiculite, a swollen mica product availible at your hardware store.  This is better than insulation in that you can check your brew without fearing that you've changed anything at all given that the liquid and external solids have the same info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2010-02-17T01:51:40.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1519" CreationDate="2010-02-17T02:31:49.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a comment.  The intense privacy of brewers has faded over time as legitimate strains of mosts yeasts have been made public.  Typically, the brewers who sought intense privacy would need to pasturize then bottle condition with another strain prior to distribution.  Look for ales specifically, that bottle condition and are organic, made in the US.  Otherwise, a good bet are smaller brewers that fit a similar profile, who rely on craft and don't mass produce.  Most of the exclusive yeast strains, like those from England and Alsace that are protected would never introduce fermentables by choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2010-02-17T02:31:49.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1528" CreationDate="2010-02-17T03:02:31.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the website:&#xA;alcohol content 7.2% by volume&lt;br&gt;&#xA;beginning gravity 17.3 Plato (~1.070 SG)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;ending gravity 4.2 Plato (~1.017 SG)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;bitterness units 65&lt;br&gt;&#xA;malts Two-row Pale, &amp;amp; Crystal&lt;br&gt;&#xA;yeast Ale Yeast&lt;br&gt;&#xA;bittering hops Magnum&lt;br&gt;&#xA;finishing hops Magnum &amp;amp; Crystal&lt;br&gt;&#xA;dry hopping Magnum, Crystal &amp;amp; Citra  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The values for gravity and IBU are measured in their lab, not estimated from a spreadsheet.  I would assume they post the measured values on the site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a recipe in Zymurgy last summer.  I can't find the issue right now, but I'll post the recipe when I find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-04-12T14:01:07.463" LastActivityDate="2010-04-12T14:01:07.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1527" CreationDate="2010-02-17T03:36:30.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be fairly easy to determine the actual temperatures your fridge stays at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill a bucket with water &amp;amp; put a thermometer in it. It doesn't have to be five gallons, two or three will do. The more water, the longer you must wait during step 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the fridge to the warmest setting and put the bucket in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow the temperature to stabilize – probably a few hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the temperature; record it along with the fridge's setting. For more accurate results, do this every five minutes until you discover the temperature range of the current setting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the dial a half notch cooler and return to step three.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the model your refrigerator may keep temperatures in a 2-5º band.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can be more clever by affixing a larger wheel with an arrow to the dial. This will give you finer control over the thermostat. Write the temperatures along the outside of the dial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-17T03:36:30.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1225" CreationDate="2010-02-17T17:25:37.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weyermann.de/eng/produkte.asp?PN=2&amp;amp;idkat=18&amp;amp;umenue=yes&amp;amp;idmenue=37&amp;amp;sprache=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CaraBohemian&lt;/a&gt; is the commercial name for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weyermann.de/eng/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyermann&lt;/a&gt; malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its listed uses are as followed, from the Wyermann site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bohemian Lagers&#xA;Bohemian Dark Lagers&#xA;Bohemian Bock Beers&#xA;Bohemian Specialty Beers&#xA;Porter&#xA;Stout&#xA;Ales&#xA;Bock Beers&#xA;October Beers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your instincts are dead on for the uses for this malt.  It is designed to be up to 15 percent of your total grist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other manufacturers likely have malts with a similar profile.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Products/Caramel%5FMalts.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Briess's Caramel Malts&lt;/a&gt; are probably a close equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not used CaraBohemian myself. Wish I could be more help. Let us know how it works out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-02-17T17:25:37.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1555" CreationDate="2010-02-18T13:50:40.810" Score="7" ViewCount="1317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to grow a couple of hop bines this year.  Most of the online brew supply places say they ship in late March / early April.  I have a feeling I'll still have snow on the ground around that time.  Here in Western PA we typically plant our gardens in early May.  Last year it was mid-late may before the last frost hit and I could get my veggies in the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I order hop rhizomes and they arrive in early April, how should I store them?  Should I get them in the ground as soon as they arrive, like transplanting a dormant shrub?  Or should I store them in paper bags in the basement like tulip bulbs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T18:20:51.347" Title="When should you buy and plant hop rhizomes?" Tags="|hops|grow|rhizome|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="780" CreationDate="2010-02-18T14:47:09.300" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ester you're experiencing is called &lt;strong&gt;isoamyl acetate&lt;/strong&gt;. Esters don't contribute to hangovers. I had a banana flavor crop up in my very first batch, an extract IPA.  It happened in the bottle, as best I could tell.  I tasted the beer between primary and secondary, and before bottling, and there was no hint of this flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything I read pointed toward the yeast (Safale US-05 dry) being the culprit. I couldn't find any documentation on what to expect. Was I stuck with this banana flavor or would it lessen over time? Was this just a phase and would the yeast re-metabolize this by-product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gutted my way through the batch, telling myself I'd do better next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, it turns out it was a phase. The IPA became excellent as it aged. The banana flavor completely disappeared (or became part of the background) and I learned a valuable lesson in patience. For being impatient, I got to drink half a batch of banana special. By the time the flavor subsided, I only had one six-pack left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't taste right, leave it alone. Go on to your next batch. Open a bottle every week or so to see if it's changed.  By the time you get to six months, you'll have drunk half the batch in testing and can make an informed decision about whether to dump the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-02-18T20:43:40.113" LastActivityDate="2010-02-18T20:43:40.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1546" CreationDate="2010-02-18T16:05:30.697" Score="5" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several beers that blur the lines between ale and lager. Here's a few I'm aware of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Styles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;California Common&lt;/strong&gt; is fermented at ale temperatures with a lager yeast, most often Wyeast 2112 California Lager.  These are also called &lt;strong&gt;steam beers&lt;/strong&gt;, though the provenance of the name is not clear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kölsch&lt;/strong&gt;: fermented at low ale temp (60°) with an ale yeast and traditionally given a long, slow age at low temp, similar to lagering.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Beers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rogue's &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rogue.com/beers/dead-guy-ale.php&quot;&gt;Dead Guy Ale&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; claims a German maibock style, but the recipes I've seen for this beer use Rogue's PacMan yeast, ferment at 60°F, and have no lagering period indicated.  I don't know how Dead Guy stacks against, say, Hofbräu Maibock, but using a top-fermenting yeast and eliminating lagering (cold aging) would seem to disqualify it from claiming a maibock-style, but maybe that's too rigid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure there needs to be a definite line here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-02-18T16:59:13.007" Title="What's the line between ale and lager?" Tags="|lager|ale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1541" CreationDate="2010-02-18T16:08:21.670" Score="15" ViewCount="6506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that you can leave an ale to secondary for months and enough yeast will remain in suspension that you won't need to pitch additional yeast when bottling.  But are there times when you do need to pitch more yeast before bottling to ensure you get carbonated beer?  For instance...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What if you crash-cool your ale?  Will the yeast fall out of suspension such that there won't be any left to carbonate your brew in the bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What if you started with a high gravity beer and the yeast gave all they had?  Will they be too tired to eat the priming sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other factors that would make it a good idea to pitch more yeast before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-12-13T18:09:59.770" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T18:09:59.770" Title="When is it necessary to pitch fresh yeast for bottle conditioning?" Tags="|yeast|bottle-conditioning|crash-cool|pitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1542" CreationDate="2010-02-18T16:11:26.143" Score="11" ViewCount="3180" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a follow on to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1539/when-is-it-necessary-to-pitch-fresh-yeast-for-bottle-conditioning&quot;&gt;my other question&lt;/a&gt; about when you would need to pitch additional yeast for bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you know that you need to pitch more yeast before bottling to ensure your beer gets carbonated, how do you do it?  What strain do you use?  Do you add it to the bottom of the empty bottling bucket before siphoning the beer from the fermenter, or do you add it to the top of beer after you've already siphoned into the bottling bucket?  Do you need to wait for any amount of time after pitching before filling the bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:05:42.953" Title="How do you pitch additional yeast for bottling?" Tags="|yeast|techniques|bottle-conditioning|pitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1539" CreationDate="2010-02-18T16:24:24.347" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only beers I ever add yeast to for bottle conditioning are those big beers that sit for more than two months in secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons are as you stated, tired yeast and the issue of not having enough yeast in suspension.  I have crash-cooled a couple of younger ales, and not had any issues in bottle carbonation. I would be interested if anyone else had different experiences with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, for purposes of adding yeast to the bottling bucket, I do one of three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep a bit of the starter in a sanitized sealed bottle in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep a bit of the trub from the primary fermenter in a sealed bottle in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Or use a packet of a neutral dry yeast, like Safale S-05. I bloom it first in some sterile water then add it to the bottling bucket.  I don't use this option often, it costs money, but it works if you didn't save any of the original yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-02-18T16:24:24.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1540" CreationDate="2010-02-18T16:30:39.473" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where to get the yeast is answered in your &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1539/when-is-it-necessary-to-pitch-fresh-yeast-for-bottle-conditioning&quot;&gt;other question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strain doesn't much matter unless its a huge beer and is exceeding the alcohol tolerance of a neutral strain like S-05.  Generally I like to use the yeast I fermented with, by keeping some from the starter or some from the trub in the primary for bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I add it to the bottom of the bottling bucket before adding the beer, along with the priming sugar.  I still carefully stir the mass afterward to ensure even distribution.  I had a batch where a bunch of bottles were overcarbed and a bunch undercarbed because I didn't stir my priming sugar after adding it to the already-full bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not wait any time to bottle after you add the yeast and priming sugar.  The whole point of the operation is to catch the CO2 that the yeast is going to make to carbonate the beer.  Waiting would only waste some CO2.  On top of that there is risk of contamination in the open bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T14:43:10.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1538" CreationDate="2010-02-18T16:51:07.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is only confusion if you mix the definitions. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2008%5FGuidelines.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP style guide&lt;/a&gt; sorts this all out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially there are three definitions of &quot;lager&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A type of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A temperature dependent beer making process.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A beer style, known for its clean taste.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steam beers use an odd lager yeast but don't use the lagering process nor are they categorized as a lager.  They are categorized as California Common Beer by the BJCP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kolsch beers use a cold period similar to lagering, but they use ale yeasts and are categorized as a Light Hybrid Beer, Kolsch by the BJCP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rogue can claim anything they want.  They use an ale yeast and don't lager the beer. That's marketing by Rogue, not definitions.  The BJCP has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/stylecenter.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;comprehensive listing&lt;/a&gt; of beer styles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-02-18T16:51:07.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1538" CreationDate="2010-02-18T16:59:13.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The distinction comes from the beer's tradition and history.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, lagers are fermented with lager yeast (&lt;em&gt;S. carlsbergensis&lt;/em&gt;) and ales with ale yeast (&lt;em&gt;S. cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt;). Traditionally, ales ferment quickly near room temperature and are served fresh.  Lagers ferment slowly, coolly and are stored near freezing for a period of months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BJCP lists &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/catdex.php&quot;&gt;seven &quot;hybrid&quot; styles&lt;/a&gt; in their guidelines.  The HomebrewTalk wiki &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Hybrid%5Fbeer%5Fstyles&quot;&gt;describes a number of hybrids&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I use &lt;em&gt;duck-typing&lt;/em&gt; when placing a beer in a style.  &quot;When I see a bird that walks like a duck and swims like a duck and quacks like a duck, I call that bird a duck.&quot;  For example, St Arnold brewery makes an Oktoberfest (a lager) but they ferment it as an ale with ale yeast.  It looks, smells and tastes like an Oktoberfest, so that's what I call it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-18T16:59:13.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1337" CreationDate="2010-02-18T18:01:27.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm lumping bottle-conditioning in with cellaring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in New York and so space is at a premium, but what I'm most concerned about is explosions in the bottle-conditioning process.  This is an imperfect solution, but I went with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.containerstore.com/shop/closet/storageBoxes?productId=10003254&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;jumbo boxes from the Container Store&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stackable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They each hold about a batch worth of bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're waterproof, with waterproof lids, so explosions are contained&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're clear, so you can see if one of your bottles has exploded and clean up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're waterproof, so any moisture in there when you place the lid is probably going to contribute to mold or mildew on the outside of the bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're clear, so you risk light-struck beer if you don't keep them out of direct light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had it to do again, I'd probably go with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/10813-BRUTE/Rubbermaid-Brutereg-Totes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RubberMaid Brute&lt;/a&gt; totes. The 14-gallon size is about the same as the Container Store jumbo boxes, and they're more sturdy for roughly the same price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-02-18T18:01:27.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1559" CreationDate="2010-02-18T18:10:55.583" Score="4" ViewCount="1153" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine my surprise when I opened a bottle of my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/recipe-kits/extract-kits/extract-ale-kits/cream-ale-extract-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cream ale&lt;/a&gt; and found that it had picked up a clove-y flavor reminiscent of a wheat beer. It's not even presented as a risk in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style06.php#1a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP guidelines for cream ale&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty clear that the flavor I'm tasting is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/19-brewing-tips/479-cloves-a-nut-browns-mr-wizard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;4-vinyl guaiacol&lt;/a&gt;, but it's not clear where the heck it came from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Safale S-05 dry yeast and fermented at a pretty steady 65°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, it's delicious.  I doubt I could replicate it, but I would if I could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-02-19T15:52:20.797" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T22:51:53.133" Title="Why does my cream ale taste like a witbier?" Tags="|flavor|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="877" CreationDate="2010-02-18T19:48:34.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/starter-kits/deluxe-beer-starter-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this starter kit&lt;/a&gt; as a housewarming present, along with an IPA extract kit.  It saw me safely through my first batch, and I didn't run out of anything until my third batch.  (When I did, it was sanitizer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm so glad someone made the executive decision for me and stopped me from assembling a setup piecemeal. Your time is valuable. Get a starter equipment kit and get brewing. Better that than getting in the middle of your first batch and realizing you don't have x piece of essential equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing this didn't come with (which I already had) was a three-gallon pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-02-18T19:48:34.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1358" CreationDate="2010-02-18T20:58:26.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd gotten the advice about a stout or a porter for a first-timer. Though I'm still a novice, I think the advice is a bit flawed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like porters at all. I only like one stout, Guinness, and I was not going to try to replicate that on my first time out. I chose an IPA because it was strongly hopped to hide any missteps, but the &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1/why-does-my-beer-smell-like-bananas/758#758&quot;&gt;IPA did actually have some issues&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That question (about an imperial stout having a banana flavor) also puts the lie to stouts hiding off flavors. Yes, they have dark coloring and strong flavors, but those flavors aren't going to hide major defects, and major defects seem to come not from the fermentables, but from stressed or unhealthy yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accordingly, I'd put most of my effort not into making sure I pick a beer where my mistakes can hide, but into setting it up so that the yeast have every chance of succeeding. For me, if I had it to do again, an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/american-amber-ale-extract-kit-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;American amber ale, below 1050 OG, and a Wyeast smack-pack&lt;/a&gt; to make sure I get a good fermentation, and make sure to slosh it good to get some good aeration. A fast, strong fermentation with great yeast will lower the chance of contamination being an issue, and will produce fewer unintended flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, my brother-in-law did exactly what you're not supposed to do. For his first batch, he brewed an American lager straight off in his cold garage. They say not to try to replicate Bud because the off flavors have nowhere to hide. He said it turned out just fine. Not perfect, but totally drinkable. He's moving on to a pilsener for his second batch, and I expect it'll be okay, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-02-18T20:58:26.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1557" CreationDate="2010-02-18T22:40:55.810" Score="6" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://4.bp.blogspot.com/_pnQEXd93GTw/SlgDLJLZlmI/AAAAAAAAAeI/NxCFMCdO034/s400/IMG_2793.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;Take Pride In Your Beer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I created a beer called &lt;a href=&quot;http://midnighthourbrewery.blogspot.com/search/label/rye&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rye of the Hurricane II&lt;/a&gt; and would like to enter it in competitions. Problem is, I am not sure it fits in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/catdex.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BCJP category&lt;/a&gt;. Where would you enter this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is too dark for American Rye (6D), and &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be out of category for Roggenbier (15D).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has great body and plum/raisin maltiness. While it is full-bodied the beer is not heavy. Traditional British hops give it a earthy, muddied bitterness leading into a spicy rye and Hallertau kick. The finish is peppery, slightly sweet and just a little thick on the tongue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the latest version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;10 Gallons&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG: 1.050&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IBU: ~21&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fermentables&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15 lbs Maris Otter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 lbs Rye malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 lbs Munich Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 lbs Crystal 120ºL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash at 149ºF for 20 minutes. Raise temperature to 160º for 40 minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hops&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60 Minute boil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 oz Mt Hood FWH&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz East Kent Goldings 30 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Hallertau 10 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Hallertau 5 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Irish Moss 15 minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fermentation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ferment with WYeast 1318 London Ale Yeast III at 68ºF for 28 days&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Serving&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Medium Carbonation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_pnQEXd93GTw/SM2SbC_1MlI/AAAAAAAAAV4/1syRz5fNR3g/s400/IMG_1293.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ingredients&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.580" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T21:17:40.613" Title="How Would You Categorize This Beer?" Tags="|judging|competition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1536" CreationDate="2010-02-18T22:59:38.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most places seem to do it like a pre-order deal.  Whether they'll have any extra stock if you don't pre-order is probably a crapshoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They usually come in a plastic bag.  Keep them moist and cold if you can't plant right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several of the hops suppliers have notes on growing your own as well.  Check out Fresh Hops advice here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freshops.com/hop-growing/hop-gardening/#planting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.freshops.com/hop-growing/hop-gardening/#planting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastEditorUserId="2374" LastEditDate="2012-05-04T18:20:51.347" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T18:20:51.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1551" CreationDate="2010-02-18T23:01:46.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What yeast strain and fermentation temperature did you use?  Normally if you want a nice clean, low ester profile then you pitch lots of yeast, ferment on the cool side (64-65ºF) and use a clean ale strain like 1056/WLP001.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastActivityDate="2010-02-18T23:01:46.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1554" CreationDate="2010-02-18T23:06:08.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe an English Pale ale?  Think more about the hop profile and count the rye as a bonus.  There's also no rule that says you can't enter the same beer in multiple categories.  Try a couple of different ones and see where it scores well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastActivityDate="2010-02-18T23:06:08.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1560" CreationDate="2010-02-19T00:48:05.970" Score="7" ViewCount="1936" Body="&lt;p&gt;An apfelwein recipe I've made in the past calls for 2 lbs of corn sugar for primary fermentation.  The next go-round when I make a batch, I'm thinking of substituting some brown sugar (not a lot, perhaps 1 part brown sugar, 3 parts corn sugar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: is corn sugar and brown sugar the same, pound-for-pound, as far as using it for primary fermentation?  Or is there a conversion rate I should follow? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T02:50:15.103" Title="Substituting brown sugar for corn sugar" Tags="|sugar|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1551" CreationDate="2010-02-19T01:34:12.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I say let it age.  The kit you bought uses either WY1056 or Safale US-05 and both of them have a pretty clean profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts are this:  Either the beer is too young and that flavor will age out, or it was too warm when it fermented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gotta tell ya, sometimes these light flavored, light color beers can be the hardest.  On top of that, I've never had a cream ale that I would consider &quot;typical of style&quot;.  They have all varied wildly. Big bad-assed beers with strong flavors and/or lots of hops can cover up a lot of tiny brewing technique refinements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let it age another month or two.  Give it a try then and see if the clove smell goes away.  Good luck with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-02-19T01:34:12.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1558" CreationDate="2010-02-19T01:44:33.833" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using light brown sugar, for all intents and purposes they are the same.  They should both ferment to 100%.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dark brown sugar has more molasses in it and there are some unfermentable sugars in molasses. That being said, its such a small percentage that I simply wouldn't worry about it. Were are talking fractions of a percent loss of ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, essentially substitute brown sugar of any variety at a 1:1 ratio to corn sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heh, if you used brown sugar, enough cinnamon sticks and nutmeg during the short boil and enough vanilla after fermentation completes you could make liquid apple pie. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-02-19T01:44:33.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1562" CreationDate="2010-02-19T14:06:52.163" Score="15" ViewCount="2477" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife just kicked a bottle of vanilla extract.  She bakes a lot and buys &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thespicehouse.com/spices/pure-madagascar-bourbon-islands-double-strength-vanilla-extract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the good stuff&lt;/a&gt; that comes with a bean in it.  I think i want to add the bean to my double-chocolate stout that's in the secondary.  Right now I have the carboy in the fridge &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/602/what-would-cause-yeast-to-fail-to-flocculate&quot;&gt;trying to get the yeast to settle out&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I throw the bean in now, will it have any impact, or will the low temps make it a waste of a bean?  Should I throw the bean in whole, or should I chop it up, maybe scrape the caviar out and add the skin and caviar separately?  Should I do anything to sanitize the bean before I add it?  Soak it in vodka then add the bean &amp;amp; vodka?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T00:47:30.883" Title="When should I add a vanilla bean?" Tags="|secondary|flavor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1561" CreationDate="2010-02-19T15:02:41.293" Score="9" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The oils in the bean are soluble in alcohol.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature probably won't affect the process much&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The more surface area the additive has, the faster &amp;amp; more complete the process will be (chop it up or leave it longer for more vanilla flavor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can't say about the question of caviar v. skin. Maybe taste each part to get an idea of what they will impart to your stout.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vanilla extract is already an alcoholic solution. If the bean hasn't been sitting out, it should be pretty clean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that your stout has produced alcohol. It should be fully attenuated (dropped to its predicted final gravity). The booze in the beer ought to take care of any nasties.  If you are paranoid, soak it in vodka for an hour or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-19T15:02:41.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1564" CreationDate="2010-02-19T15:59:57.530" Score="6" ViewCount="9833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How To Brew&lt;/a&gt; book, which is generally good, but the author uses the term &quot;knockout&quot; without definition a couple of times. What does it mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-02-22T16:05:07.980" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T00:15:32.020" Title="What does knockout mean?" Tags="|process|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1563" CreationDate="2010-02-19T16:01:07.640" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewersroundtable.com/knockout-t895.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, it's the very end of the boil.  Minute 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-02-19T16:01:07.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1568" CreationDate="2010-02-19T16:16:37.593" Score="7" ViewCount="7617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been taking the original gravity and multiplying the apparent attenuation of the yeast.  For instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;1.040 OG x 75% apparent attenuation = 1.010 expected FG&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I never seem to get there. My fermentations look really healthy. Are my expectations realistic? Is this just hard to get right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a real world example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a beer using this recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 lb 40L Caramalt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.3 lbs extra-light LME &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1 lb extra-light DME&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1 oz Fuggle @ 60 mins&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1 oz Fuggle @ 1 min&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;0.5 Whirlfloc tab @ 10 mins&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 tsp Wyeast yeast nutrient @ 10 mins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast: Wyeast 1098 British Ale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG: 1.038&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very short lag, healthy-looking initial fermentation with a clean white foam cap that fell back into the beer after three days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This yeast has an apparent attenuation range of 68-72%.  Thus, I would expect an FG of 1.010 to 1.012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put it in bottles last night, it came in at 1.016.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appear to be doing everything recommended.  For aeration, I'm pouring through a sieve, then sloshing for five minutes.  Maybe that's the missing link? Or are my expectations too high?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-02-19T19:52:51.307" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T19:45:11.333" Title="How do I predict final gravity?" Tags="|fermentation|specific-gravity|final-gravity|attenuation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-19T16:20:09.773" Score="21" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;Occasionally I need to brew beer for an event, and I procrastinate. One time, I brewed a pretty hefty IPA, and went from boil to bottle (keg, actually) in about 10 days. It was pretty malty, considering I kegged it at 1.032 or so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some tips for rapid brewing? Any specific yeasts, styles, temperatures, and other techniques for pushing a batch out as fast as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that it's not really in our nature to rush, but rather to relax, sit back, and enjoy a homebrew. However, that being said, how do &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; brew fast? Consider options where money is and is not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T03:41:01.307" Title="Brewing with a deadline" Tags="|techniques|process|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1566" CreationDate="2010-02-19T16:53:24.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've learned that you just can't rush big beers.  Anything with an ABV over 5% or so and you'll have to wait a while.  Keeps the beer small, like in the 4% range, and it should be drinkable in a few weeks.  Similarly, if you have any kind of additions that might impart off flavors early that mellow with time, you can't rush those.  You can rush a simple American pale ale or maybe a smaller red or brown ale.  You can't rush an imperial porter with 9 specialty grains and a starting gravity of 1.085.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-19T16:53:24.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1565" CreationDate="2010-02-19T17:01:34.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast strains usually come with an apparent attenuation range, not an exact value.  For instance, something like 70-75%, 67-70%, etc.  I always hope to hit the lower end of that range.  For example, if I start at 1.050 and use a yeast with 73-80% apparent attenuation, I expect to end up in the range of 1.010 - 1.014.  Sometimes I go a point or two lower in FG than the high end of the attenuation range would suggest, but that's not the norm.  If I get within a few gravity points of the higher gravity number, I'm happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're expecting to hit 1.010 and you're getting to, say, 1.022 something's wrong.  Maybe you need to pitch more viable yeast.  A starter might help.  Or maybe your wort isn't aerated enough prior to fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-19T17:01:34.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1565" CreationDate="2010-02-19T17:17:57.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your final gravity will be influenced by a number of things. The typical attenuation range of the yeast is just one aspect. How thick/thin and warm your mash is (or the overall fermentability of your LME or DME) will play a significant roll. Fermentation temperature and aeration of the wort before pitching will also be significant. As JackSmith stated, the amount and viability of the yeast will also influence final gravity. A solid yeast starter is highly recommended, especially with a stir plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2010-02-19T17:17:57.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-19T17:45:38.547" Score="9" ViewCount="3551" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be more of a wiki than a specific question, but has anyone ever tried brewing with vegetables?  If so, what is your experience?  I'm considering mostly root vegetables. carrots, beets, turnips, parsnips&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, what is the best way to infuse the flavor, aroma and color of the veg? How much sugar can I expect to extract?  Will that sugar be fermentable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:24:58.723" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:24:58.723" Title="Brewing with veggies" Tags="|techniques|fermentation|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1358" CreationDate="2010-02-19T21:17:25.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first batch was a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersbestkits.com/pdf/1010%5FRed%5FAle.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewer's Best Red Ale kit&lt;/a&gt;.  It's a simple-but-not-too-simple kit with LME, minimal specialty grains, and a couple kinds of hops.  At the time I was only 23 and didn't have the most refined beer palate.  I wasn't a Bud drinker; I just hadn't yet really learned what I liked.  I knew that the idea of good beer intrigued me.  I was also a fan of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.foodnetwork.com/good-eats/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Good Eats&lt;/a&gt;, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/good-brew-recipe/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewing episode&lt;/a&gt; got me excited a bouthomebrewing - a hobby I never knew existed until then.  My wife (well, fiancee at the time) got me the complete starter kit from our LHBS which included your choice of Brewer's Best kit.  She chose the red ale I think because that's what AB brewed.  I'd recommend any ale kit like this one - LME, specialty grains, one or two hops - is a great first batch.  Pick the kit that matches the kind of beer you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-19T21:17:25.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1358" CreationDate="2010-02-20T06:14:10.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ales are a lot easier to start with than lagers.  You can pick just about any style you like and find a basic recipe that will make good beer.  Some ideas, if you like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hoppier beers, try a simple pale&#xA;maltier beers, go with a brown or amber ale&#xA;roasty beers, you can try a stout or porter&#xA;belgian/wheat, wit beer is the way to go&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these beers will be outside your abilities on a first try with an extract or extract/steeping recipe.  Will it be the best beer you ever tasted?  Maybe not, but you'll like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-02-20T06:14:10.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1563" CreationDate="2010-02-20T06:15:04.767" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep.  It's when you shut off the burner (or heat source) on your boil kettle.  You &quot;knock-out&quot; the flame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-02-20T06:15:04.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-20T12:57:39.560" Score="5" ViewCount="3157" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's your opinion on them? Have you ever used one? I was thinking of buying one (specially designed for brewing, even has a tap on). How is it different from the more traditional methods? Is it worth the cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-20T14:29:17.593" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T06:45:27.490" Title="Electric Kettle with thermostat" Tags="|equipment|kettle|electric|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-21T17:41:46.283" Score="4" ViewCount="6573" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have my first possible stuck fermentation. First, my recipe: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/166971/extra-special-strong-bitter-english-pale-ale-recipes/shoals-pale-ale-clone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hopville.com/recipe/166971/extra-special-strong-bitter-english-pale-ale-recipes/shoals-pale-ale-clone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pitched with two Wyeast packs of London ESB Ale as recommended by the LBS due to starting gravity. When I finished brewing, I realized that a hydrometer I had bought turned out to be a floating thermometer, so I could not take a first reading. I let it go as normal. Activity was normal for the first few days but never got really bubbling. I chalked this up as my first primary in a bucket vs. a carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 4 days, bubbling activity really slowed down. I considered adding more fermentables, but I had at least 5lbs of liquid malt extract plus my grains. I also find it hard to imagine that with two smack packs, the yeast didn't take off (I also aerated my wort before pitching and let the smack packs inflate for a few hours). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today is day 8 and I picked up a hydrometer last night and took a reading. It is currently sitting at a gravity reading of 1.015, estimated at 2% ABV. My target is 5.5% ABV. Do I possibly have a stuck fermentation? What should I do, besides wait it out a few more days and take another reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: In my haste, I failed to check the temperature of my sample. My hydrometer is accurate at 60 degrees F. I will take a second sample and repost the new results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: 2nd reading at 60 was very close to the original. Maybe 1.018 for the gravity. I guess I can't figure out my ABV without an original reading but I can take another reading in a few days and see if it's still fermenting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="482" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:19:15.567" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T12:19:15.567" Title="Stuck or Slow Fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|original-gravity|smack-pack|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1576" CreationDate="2010-02-21T17:58:13.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How did you come up with 2% ABV?  If you followed the recipe you posted exactly and you're currently at 1.015, then you're definitely done.  That recipe says you should reach 1.019.  With a starting gravity of 1.061 and and final gravity of 1.019, you'd be at 5.6% ABV.  Assuming you started out at 1.060 and you hit 1.015, you're ABV is 5.81%.  Not only are you not stuck, but you got a better-than-expected fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-21T17:58:13.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-21T19:59:20.640" Score="10" ViewCount="5353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed a clone of Belhaven Scottish Ale using the extract recipe from the book, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1580170773&quot;&gt;Clone Brews&lt;/a&gt;.  The recipe calls for both light LME and light DME.  Why would it use both?  It does specify brands of each to use.  Might the recipe be taking into account the particular flavor of each extract from the different brands, or is there something more obvious I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-02T13:33:04.273" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T00:36:13.093" Title="Why would a recipe use both Light LME and Light DME?" Tags="|extract|ingredients|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1584" CreationDate="2010-02-21T20:08:10.297" Score="4" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed a recipe for a biggish beer that calls for 6.6 lbs of light LME and 2.75 lbs of light DME.  Given that I always mess up at least one thing when I brew, I measured out 2.75 lbs of DME and 2.75 lbs of LME.  I got everything else right - the hops, specialty grains, other fermentables, etc.  My only mistake was using 40% of the LME I was supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The target gravity was around 1.075 but I ended up at 1.049.  Adjusting the recipe to account for my mistake, the adjusted target gravity is about 1.050, so it's OK in that regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My expectation for the beer is that it will taste great and will taste like I expect it to, but it will be a little lighter in color, have less alcohol, and a little less body.  I'm OK with that.  Is there anything else that will be off based on the mistake I made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-22T05:10:37.437" Title="What effect would using less LME than called for have?" Tags="|extract|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1579" CreationDate="2010-02-21T21:59:32.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You summed it up pretty well, but missed a point or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The alcohol content will be lower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not only will the body be lighter, it won't be as sweet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As such, the bitter/maltiness balance will be more towards hop bitterness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-21T21:59:32.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1582" CreationDate="2010-02-21T22:38:59.163" Score="6" ViewCount="3487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make the move to all-grain, but it's fairly equipment-intensive. I see &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view%5Fproduct/9167/103458/Mash%5FTun%5F-%5F8%5FGallon%5FHeavy%5FDuty%5FBrew%5FKettle&quot;&gt;combination mash tuns and brew kettles&lt;/a&gt;. Are these a solution? Can I use the kettle for mashing, then transfer to another container, clean this one out, and re-use it for a brew kettle? That sort of seems like asking for hot-side aeration and hassle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they're not reusable, they just seem like an expensive replacement for a 10 gallon Igloo cooler with false bottom, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-02-22T16:05:44.313" LastActivityDate="2010-02-22T16:05:44.313" Title="Should I &amp; how do I use a mash tun brew kettle with a false bottom?" Tags="|equipment|small-space|all-grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1581" CreationDate="2010-02-22T01:19:51.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seems reasonable.&lt;/strong&gt; I usually clean out my mash tun while I'm waiting for the wort to boil, so you would lose some time.  All-grain brewing is already more time-intensive than extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Instead&lt;/strong&gt; I suggest you do a little research into the &lt;a href=&quot;http://google.com/search?q=brew+in+a+bag&quot;&gt;brew-in-a-bag&lt;/a&gt; technique. The method is nearly the same as your combo-tun-kettle, except the grain is in an easy-to-remove giant sack.  I've used it a few times for 2-3 gallon batches, but you can do full 5 or 10 gallon batches using a bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-22T01:19:51.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4506" CreationDate="2010-02-22T04:47:03.243" Score="23" ViewCount="836" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always been very careful about control and sanitation with beer.  But with my wine I do some native yeast Pinots, and some friends of mine are into the same with beers-  they like funky, sometimes sour, open-fermented farmhouse ales &amp;amp; Saisons or even some California knock-offs of the same.  Sometimes I think there's something there, other times I think they're nasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With wine, you have native yeast that's specific to the vineyard and lives on the skins of the grapes.  It's not all that risky because of the biology-- wine yeast thrives where there's food, and grapes provide it, generally.  But beer made in my garage is a different thing entirely.  I would think there's not much coming in on the grain hulls, and the wort boil kills whatever's there.  So I would think whatever native yeast I get is coming from... well.. my garage.  I'm not too into rat s#!t beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do you do a farmhouse-style ale at home without inoculating?  And can I just leave the airlock off my carboy and get a half-decent end result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-02T13:31:43.300" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T23:53:33.990" Title="Open-Fermented or Native Yeast Beers" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|open-fermentation|equipment|techniques|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1579" CreationDate="2010-02-22T05:10:37.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hops will have a slightly higher utilization in a lower gravity wort, so you can expect a slightly hoppier beer.  If you aren't basing this on a recipe you've tasted before, or aren't familiar with what (for example) 30 IBU tastes like vs 35 IBU, you probably won't notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-02-22T05:10:37.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1578" CreationDate="2010-02-22T05:33:40.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;LME is usually cheaper, but harder to measure and store if you don't use the full package.  Sometimes recipes add on DME if you aren't using even 1 pound increments.  Light LME and light DME are interchangeable, as long as you take into account the higher extract per pound of DME (since it has less water it has more fermentables per pound).  Also, don't switch out something like wheat LME for light DME.  They aren't the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-02-22T05:33:40.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1581" CreationDate="2010-02-22T06:35:41.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is Yes.&#xA;The long answer is...&#xA;I have a 15 gallon polarware kettle w/false bottom and a 10 gallon of the same.  I've found that I need the 15g for both mashing and boiling of 10 gallon batches-- need the extra headspace for the mash and potential boil overs in the boil.  So I mash in the 15, then sparge into the 10 with an extra stainless pot for overflow.  Then I hike my 15 up to the compost heap and empty the grains.  I clean the thing and then pour my wort from the 10 back into the 15 and boil it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YES, there's some hot side aeration happening here.  But my beers have been working out very well.  It's a pain in the butt though.  If I had 2 15gal kettles, I'd be a happy boy.  But I don't at the moment...  and this system works, though it's time-and labor intensive.  Especially since I'm hiking up a very steep hill to the compost :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-02-22T06:35:41.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1590" CreationDate="2010-02-22T16:48:57.567" Score="5" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a few of the meta questions on this site, and in other discussions, the main thing lacking on BrewAdvice.com is the ability to share recipes. While questions about a specific recipe fit very well - such as &quot;Is this enough malt [recipe]&quot; - questions like &quot;Do you like this recipe?&quot; or &quot;Anyone have a good recipe for [style]&quot; do not quite fit this format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is two-fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are some sites you like to share / find recipes? What is it that you like about that site? Other feedback, etc.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More generally, what are some things you look for in a recipe site, and more specifically, what are some things you look for in a recipe site that you haven't found yet?&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is enough lack of features in sites out there today, maybe I'll build a new one. Better mousetrap, if you will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T18:00:13.760" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T18:00:13.760" Title="Recipe Sharing Sites" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1598" CreationDate="2010-02-22T18:52:05.210" Score="6" ViewCount="6208" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of adding flavor extracts (fruit, chocolate, what have you) at bottling time versus adding them to the secondary?  Does it make a difference?  Is there a trade-off between one versus the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-02T13:30:29.993" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T01:48:17.033" Title="Flavor extracts - add to secondary or add during bottling?" Tags="|flavor|extract|ingredients|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1587" CreationDate="2010-02-22T19:18:55.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only one I've used so far is &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/recipator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hbd.org/recipator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the fact that it has a really large database of recipes, concerning all beer styles, and that all of them are sorted by style. The thing that bothers me a bit is that after you choose your beer style, for example &quot;imperial stout&quot; there is no &quot;sort by...&quot; option, so that you can look up, let's say, only the ag beers, or the darkest, strongest, most bitter etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-02-22T19:18:55.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1587" CreationDate="2010-02-22T20:17:26.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Recipe Sharing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com&quot;&gt;Hopville&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewsession.com/&quot;&gt;BrewSession&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f82/&quot;&gt;Homebrew Talk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Features Unfound&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The single reason that I started writing BrewSession is because every other recipe formulation program or site was ugly &amp;amp; hard to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a giant list. &lt;strong&gt;This is about a quarter of my ongoing brainstorm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Recipe/Session&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pre-boil gravity calculation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add ingredients by percent of grainbill rather than weight: 80% maris otter, 10% rye, 8% Munich, 2% chocolate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add hops by IBU percentage: 60% of IBUs come from first addition, 35% from 20-minute, 5% from 5-minute.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.brewsession.com/2007/02/26/brew-day-timeline/&quot;&gt;Brew-day timeline&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple gravity readings (with dates)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Support for multiple yeasts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recipe templates: User selects American Pale ale. Software suggests grain bill, mash, hop schedule, and so on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All-grain to extract/specialty grain conversion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warnings when you reach the legal yearly brewing limit ;-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flaw diagnosis tools – pick a flaw out of a list, software tries to find causes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recipe ratings &amp;amp; netflix-style suggestions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recipe matching based on your personal inventory&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;General&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Support for some kind of data-portability format like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beerxml.com/&quot;&gt;BeerXML&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &quot;beer experiment&quot; database. EG: publish a test to see if HSA really affects beer flavor. Have homebrewers do it and report their results.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Calendar&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reminders (check gravity, rack, make starter, bottle/keg, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Events (club meetings, competitions, conferences)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-22T20:17:26.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1578" CreationDate="2010-02-22T21:50:28.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;DME has a higher chance of instigating a boil-over, doesn't it?  It might just be a mechanical choice to save you having to continually shut the heat off, particularly if there are multiple hop additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, LME has you shutting the heat off to prevent scorching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-02-22T21:50:28.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-22T21:53:49.177" Score="9" ViewCount="2556" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What tools for measuring specific gravity are available to the homebrewer?&lt;/strong&gt; EG: refractometer, hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What scale do they measure?&lt;/strong&gt; EG: Brix, plato&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there hasn't been much activity on the question, this is what I'm looking for. Any more comprehensive answers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hydrometer&lt;/strong&gt; measures &lt;em&gt;Specific Gravity&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Refractometers&lt;/strong&gt; are usually scaled in &lt;em&gt;% Brix&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://images.google.com/images?q=%22specific+gravity%22+bottle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bottles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; measure &lt;em&gt;Specific Gravity&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="1163" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T20:23:42.703" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T20:14:00.957" Title="Gravity Measurement Tools" Tags="|specific-gravity|equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1578" CreationDate="2010-02-22T22:49:40.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Theory the First&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the recipe lists specific brands of extract the author &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be looking for some esoteric flavor differences in the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Theory the Second &amp;mdash; The Texas Two-Step Method&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The liquid extract is intended to be added near the end of the boil, around the 10 or 15 minute mark.  (See &lt;em&gt;Brew Your Own&lt;/em&gt; magazine, October 2003.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extract brewers normally do not do a full-wort boil (all 5.5 gallons).  High concentrations of extract decrease the hop utilization rate.  The higher gravity wort you boil, the less hop extraction you'll get.  Boiling all the extract at once in a small volume will probably throw off the hopping rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has also been shown that beer tastes better when hops are boiled with &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; extract.  Just boiling hops straight up extracts undesirable flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So,&lt;/strong&gt; you boil some extract for the full 60 and add the rest near the end just to sanitize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why the dry first &amp;amp; liquid second?&lt;/em&gt; Probably because LME will dissolve quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bonus&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check the first theory: mix up two equal gravity worts of each extract. Taste for differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-22T22:49:40.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1603" CreationDate="2010-02-23T14:29:27.100" Score="7" ViewCount="3735" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your actual experience with each, what are the pros and cons of the two most common types of wort chillers - immersion and counter-flow?  Which do you prefer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-02-23T15:14:19.557" LastActivityDate="2010-02-23T18:37:16.650" Title="Immersion chiller or counter-flow chiller?" Tags="|chiller|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2010-02-23T14:38:56.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can chart a few big leaps in my homebrew quality over the years.  Switching from immersion to counterflow was one of them.  Getting a good cold break makes your beer clear.  CFC use less water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next chiller upgrade will be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;whirlpool chiller&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-23T14:38:56.933" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2010-02-23T15:19:51.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started with an immersion chiller and then went to a plate chiller, however I still use the immersion chiller in line with the plate chiller like this:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://backyardbrewer.blogspot.com/2009/08/post-chiller-chiller.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://backyardbrewer.blogspot.com/2009/08/post-chiller-chiller.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which helps a great deal.&#xA;mark&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="mark taylor" LastActivityDate="2010-02-23T15:19:51.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1588" CreationDate="2010-02-23T17:12:03.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always added to the bucket durring bottling. I have never tried in secondary. By doing it at bottling it has allowed for me to add the correct amount to get the flavor I was looking for. Adding at bottling seems to give the most control over your final results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-02-23T17:12:03.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1588" CreationDate="2010-02-23T17:14:24.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extracts can be added at either secondary or bottling to get the same results. I don't see any trade offs or benefits between them regarding the final beers flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pro at bottling time is to add a little at a time and sample the beer as you go to dial in the flavor.  Once you have a set amount that works for your recipe, you can jsut add that amount all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time you'd add an extract in secondary is because you need it to sit an age or condition a bit.  But extracts don't really need that sort of development, so you're just better off adding at bottling.  In the bucket with your priming agent, the rack the beer on top getting a good mix.  No need to add the stuff at secondary ever, IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-23T17:14:24.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1578" CreationDate="2010-02-23T17:29:26.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt this is the reason, but you may want to consider the water profile of the final beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use all LME then you get the chance when using distilled water to get a beer that has the exact profile from where the extract was made.  Because the minerals in their water are still in the LME.  When using DME, much of that mineral profile was lost in &quot;ringing&quot; out the last of the water to make the powder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can use distilled water for the LME portion and your &quot;house&quot; water with the DME addition and get something in between the two locales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, no one at the brew shop really gave it that much thought, but I just point out the opportunity that it presents to you the brew now at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-23T17:29:26.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1601" CreationDate="2010-02-23T17:42:39.587" Score="9" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recipe calls for a pound of DME at the beginning of the boil and 6 pounds at 15 minutes to go.  What's the point of that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-02T13:29:19.730" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T14:01:43.673" Title="Why do extract recipes call for a late addition of the bulk of the extract?" Tags="|extract|ingredients|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1600" CreationDate="2010-02-23T17:57:43.207" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hop utilization - the amount of acid bitterness extracted from hops - is greatly affected by the gravity of the boil, or the concentration of sugars in the boiling wort.  The more concentrated the sugars, the less the hops will be utilized.  If you are trying to attain a certain level of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-5.html&quot;&gt;HBUs&lt;/a&gt; in your recipe, you can do one of two things - go with a more diluted boil or use more hops.  Hops are expensive, so diluting the boil is a good choice.  Once you've decided to dilute the boil, there are two ways to do this - you could go for a full 5 gallon boil or you could do a partial boil, say 2.5 gallons, with less extract in for the majority of the boil time.  Given that most extract brewers, myself included, are not set up to do a full 5 gallon boil, adding your LME late is a good way to get the desired level of HBUs without using loads more hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-23T17:57:43.207" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1600" CreationDate="2010-02-23T18:00:11.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you brew light-colored beers using extract, you risk what's sometimes called &lt;em&gt;kettle caramelization&lt;/em&gt;.  Caramelization is actually a misnomer, as the lowest caramelization point for any of the sugars in wort would be above the boiling point of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The culprit is the Maillard reaction, which, in cooking, is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exploratorium.edu/cooking/meat/INT-what-makes-flavor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;responsible for a huge amount of deliciousness&lt;/a&gt;, but in brewing, provides a not-very-pleasing brown color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your recipe calls for a late addition, here's some tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the extract off heat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure it's fully mixed with the wort before reapplying heat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring it back to the boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Count the time that it was off heat and returning to boil toward the total time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't add all your extract as a late addition because the sugars in malt extract are beneficial to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewandchemistry.blogspot.com/2007/02/hop-chemistry.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;isomerization of the alpha acids&lt;/a&gt; in the bittering hops (possibly by bringing the pH of the wort down?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2011-03-14T14:01:43.673" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T14:01:43.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2010-02-23T18:37:16.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Immersion Chiller is easiest to clean and the most reliable from a cleanliness standpoint.  The efficiency and speed of chilling can be a bit troubling sometimes depending on the water from the taps temperature.  You also have to dabble a bit in flow rates of the water.  I find that I can run the water fairly fast for the first few minutes, but I really need to slow it down to maximize heat transfer as the wort cools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A counterflow chiller (and also plate chillers), are often but not always more efficient at chilling.  The are however usually completely sealed up.  So cleaning can be a bit worriesome if you don't know you have a deposit in there.  Also to prevent deposits and clogging with plate chillers, you really need to seperate hop debris from the wort as it exits the kettle.  Depending on the style of counterflow being used sometimes a pump is required for good wort flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too will be upgrading to a whirlpool chiller soon once I get my pump up and running. I guess that means I prefer my immersion chiller.  I use a 50' 1/2&quot; copper coil setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-23T18:37:16.650" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1592" CreationDate="2010-02-23T23:02:43.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically a Hydrometer measures (or at least mine measures) Specific gravity, potential alcohol, and/or Balling.  Refractometers measure Brix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most beer recipes use SG as their measurement.  For example, according to NorthernBrewer, their California Common kit has an OG of 1.047.  Hypothetically if you were to measure an amount of pure water (just H-O-H) at the calibration temperature (typically somewhere around 60F-70F), you would get 1.000.  Warmer liquids are not as dense, therefore the same volume of pure water at 150F would be much lower.  Similarly, that same sample of pure water at 35F would be much more dense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refractometers?  I'm sorry I never owned one, so I can't speak about them other than they are significantly expensive and that since your sample is 3-4 drops of liquid, and not 3-4 liquid ounces... temperature is not much of an issue, and the degrees of Brix measures the amount of sugar, and there IS a conversion from Brix to SG, but I don't know it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-02-23T23:02:43.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1446" CreationDate="2010-02-23T23:22:45.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I have a jury-rigged blow-off.  I have the typical universal Carboy bung that the airlock goes into, and put in my old racking cane (that was wanting a use once I bought the auto-siphon).  Then attach the hose that fits the racking cane, bottling bucket, bottle filler, etc. and coil in a spare 1-gallon bucket with water.  Might not be as good as a real blow-off hose, but it has worked on some surprisingly active fermentations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard of using the balloon trick mentioned above, only that you drain the air a few (3-4) times per day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-02-23T23:22:45.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1607" CreationDate="2010-02-24T12:24:14.137" Score="9" ViewCount="7182" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a Whirlpool Chiller and how does it work?  What are the advantages or disadvantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T21:04:59.990" Title="What is a whirlpool chiller?" Tags="|equipment|chilling|wort|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1606" CreationDate="2010-02-24T12:35:22.680" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whirlpool chilling utlilizes a pump and an immersion chiller.  Many brewers that have an immersion chiller will find that an upgrade to a pump for other uses allows them to get better chilling from the immersion chiller.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A whirlpool chiller uses a pump to pull wort from the base of the kettle, then returns the wort to the top of the kettle.  The return is just beneath the surface of the wort in the kettle to minimize aeration effects while the wort is hot.  The returned wort is pumped under the surface at an angle that is closer to parallel with the surface.  This creates a sideways force which makes the entire wort volume whirlpool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whirlpooling action increases contact volume of the wort with the chiller surface.  Whirlpool chilling stirs the wort over the immersion chiller coil and reduces the total chill time as compared to just an immersion chiller alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second advantage after chill time is the whirlpool action itself.  The forces created by the whirlpool help to create a cone of hop debris and break material in the center of the kettle.  After the chilling is complete, one can rack or draw off from the side of the kettle, normally without pulling much of this material into the fermentor.  Getting clearer wort for fermentation is an advantage of whirlpooling used by the pros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A downside to whirlpool chilling is the requirement of a pump.  However, a pump often becomes a standard upgrade for more serious brewers eventually.  The second down side is the water usage with the immersion chiller.  Plate chillers tend to be better on water.  However, using a whirlpool setup does chill faster than an immersion chiller alone, hence reducing some water useage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some pictures of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php&quot;&gt;whirlpool setup&lt;/a&gt; you can check out Jamil Zainasheff's site at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/&quot;&gt;Mr. Malty.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-24T12:35:22.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1570" CreationDate="2010-02-24T12:57:23.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need to mash the vegetable after it gets cooked to convert the starches to sugars. There aren't a lot of free sugars compared to the starches in these types of vegetables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a sweet potato beer recipe that I made that calls for baking 4-5 sweet potato in foil for 4 hours at 375.  The potatos get really soft and actually caramelize a little bit.  I scoop out the flesh and discard the skin.  Then I make a soupy mix with some crush two row and mash water at 154F (final).  That gets mashed in its own pot (~1.5 gallons)  then it gets added to the main mash prior to mashout.&#xA;I have thought beets would be interesting as a coloring agent for sure.  But too get flavor from them you'd need to use to many and I think it would stain all the plastic in your brewhouse.  But it would be a cool colored beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-24T12:57:23.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1565" CreationDate="2010-02-24T13:28:59.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, not all extracts are created the same.  I think what you are seeing is that your extract is not as fermentable as the extract created by say Wyeast to give you their range of attenuation.&#xA;You can easily email Wyeast or WhiteLabs to ask them about the conditions used to get the attentuation ranges. The are generally very helpful with that sort of stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also check to see that when your hydrometer is sitting in water alone (preferably the same water used for your brewing) that its reading 1.000.  Be sure you conduct that test at the calibrated temp for your hydrometer. Usually, 60F but it should be printed on the hydrometer scale somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So be sure your wort was at that temp too.  It will only maybe throw off your reading a point or so, but it has an impact.  The opposite is also true, be sure your OG was taken at 60F and not at 200F or even 100F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pose these hydrometer thoughts because I have a hard time getting 1.038 out of your recipe at 5 gallons.  I get closer to 1.035-36.  Small differences but it suggest some errors in reading or in the instrument itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-24T13:28:59.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1583" CreationDate="2010-02-24T15:31:20.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a great sourdough starter from plumbs growing near my apartment.  I prepared a normal water/flour mixture, then put about a half-dozen plumbs in it.  They all had that white yeast layer like you see on grapes.  After a couple of days, when the plumbs got squishy and it was time to feed the starter again, I mashed the plumbs up to release the sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do the same thing for your beer.  Find fruit trees growing nearby or maybe some good organic fruits with the yeast still growing on them.  Make a yeast starter like you normally would with beer yeast, but put the fruit in it. Might be tasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastActivityDate="2010-02-24T15:31:20.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1570" CreationDate="2010-02-24T16:48:37.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed with potatoes, and a friend of mine has brewed with carrots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He merely put carrot juice into secondary fermentation.  It wasn't a bad beer, by any stretch of the imagination and WAS a little orange.  So juicing is an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think about it, making beer from a root vegetable shouldn't be that much different than making vodka from a root vegetable.  In either case, you want to create a fermentable liquid.  In your case, you're going to act upon with ale yeast instead of distiller's yeast, and you're not going to ferment it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With potatoes, when you're making vodka, you generally use a pressure cooker to completely pulverize a potato in a small amount of water and then use that 'potato juice' as a basis for the fermentable liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a little bit of research on potatoes before using them in my beer.  While I plan on totally pulverizing them next time (to see how it comes out), I can tell you that the starches in potatoes gelatinize at about the same temperature as the starches in barley.  I did a pre-mash with my potatoes at 150F for an hour before adding them to my normal mash.  The upside to this is that you don't get a bunch of goopy potato in your mash.  The downside is that you probably don't get as much starch/sugar out of them as you would in the pulverization method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not convinced that baking a potato and adding it to your mash gets you anything more than a little bit of flavor (I'm sure you lose a lot during boil/fermentation).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want a beer to &lt;em&gt;taste&lt;/em&gt; like a vegetable, I would pasteurize it (or bake it, whatever) and add it to secondary fermentation, rather than the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my initial thoughts/research results when I first made my potato beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topfermented.com/2009/10/28/homebrew-new-thoughts-on-potatoes-in-your-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.topfermented.com/2009/10/28/homebrew-new-thoughts-on-potatoes-in-your-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be doing it again in a few weeks now that I had a little more knowledge and I'll be attempting to actually measure how much gravity I'm getting from the potatoes.  I'll be sure to post the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastActivityDate="2010-02-24T16:48:37.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1635" CreationDate="2010-02-24T19:28:51.983" Score="3" ViewCount="16840" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the dimensions of a 5.5 and 6 gallon standard glass carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-02-26T00:24:58.373" Title="Carboy dimensions" Tags="|carboy|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1576" CreationDate="2010-02-25T12:58:08.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My anser may be a bit late, but the best way to handle a stuck ferment is to up the temp and rouse the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First step would be to get the fermentor someplace warmer and try and get the beer to 72Fish. Next step would be bear hug the fermentor and gently swirl it until some of the yeast starts to get lifted off the bottom.  But you have to get it warmed up first, other wise the yeast will just a fall back to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem with the swirl is that you need to see what's happening (so a bucket makes it tough) and limited head space makes it hard to swirl.  Another option is to open the fermentor if its a bucket and go in with a long spoon or racking cane and stir up the cake a bit.  There will be a little bit of oxygen introduction but it shouldn't be to bad, because of the layer of CO2 on top of the beer already if some fermentation already occured.  Lastly, if the yeast do get going again, they'll suck up some of the O2 that was introduced during stirring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like this method prior to pitching more yeast or adding anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding more fermentables may bring back some activity as the yeast consume the fresh sugars, but there's no reason to believe they'll keep going and then get you below where you were when it got stuck.  If anything you'll end up with a higher than before stuck gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-25T12:58:08.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-02-25T13:09:09.107" Score="44" ViewCount="6418" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made this wiki to allow folks to post what upgrades in process or equipement really take one's beer brewing to the next level. The bottle-necks to better and better brewing if you will. (This was inspired be a couple comments on &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1594/immersion-chiller-or-counter-flow-chiller&quot;&gt;another post&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where have you experienced large leaps in your beer's quality?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a community wiki post. Anyone with 100 or more reputation may edit the question and any answer. Editors get no reputation points for votes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T17:36:29.583" Title="Improving Your Brewing Significantly" Tags="|techniques|equipment|process|consistency|" AnswerCount="18" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-02-25T13:09:09.107" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1667" CreationDate="2010-02-25T13:34:54.980" Score="8" ViewCount="3072" Body="&lt;p&gt;This term pops up from time to time and it often cited as a reason to go to all grain.  But maybe its because I don't really know what it tastes like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you believe in extract twang?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How do you get rid of it, aside from all-grain brewing? Can you get rid of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T02:18:25.893" LastActivityDate="2021-11-09T18:50:20.743" Title="What is Extract Twang?" Tags="|beer|techniques|ingredients|extract|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1618" CreationDate="2010-02-25T13:55:14.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what it tastes like, either, because I don't have a developed enough beer palate I think.  I jump around from style to style too much and never really brew the same beer twice.  I don't brew enough batches to want to spend time perfecting a single recipe.  Anyways, I've read that you can avoid extract twang by using fresher extract and by using lighter extract.  I think the color is more important.  I've often heard to only use light DME and get all your color &amp;amp; flavor from steeping specialty grains.  The reason to use DME as opposed to LME is that DME is going to taste fresher and the reason to use light is becuase the darker stuff provides more twang.  I can't explain why, though.  I'm just regurgitating what I've heard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-25T13:55:14.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1636" CreationDate="2010-02-25T14:07:20.347" Score="3" ViewCount="2678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got an auto siphon as a gift recently.  Unfortunately, it only reaches about half-way down into the carboy.  All the brew supply sites and the fermtech site, itself, aren't exactly clear about the exact dimensions of the various auto siphons and about whether or not they'll reach the bottom of a 6.5 gallon carboy.  Which one should I buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I think I may have been given the mini model.  Mine is 24&quot; long when fully extended, but 13.5&quot; long when collapsed.  Here is a picture of it in a 5 gallon carboy.  You can see it isn't getting the job done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y4HjU.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing the standard model is 24&quot; long when collapsed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-02T13:28:28.187" LastActivityDate="2010-03-02T13:28:28.187" Title="Which size auto siphon to empty a 5 or 6.5 gallon carboy?" Tags="|racking|siphon|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-02-25T14:36:22.347" Score="42" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Temp Control for fermentation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hitting the happy-yeast zone prevents high-temperature off-flavors like phenolics and low-temperature under attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1117/wiki-fermentation-temperature-control-methods&quot;&gt;separate community wiki post&lt;/a&gt; on this subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T19:49:32.230" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-02-25T14:36:22.347" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-02-25T14:36:50.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Sourcing the freshest ingredients (especially extracts)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-25T14:36:50.087" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-02-25T14:36:50.087" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-02-25T14:38:35.627" Score="15" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Using a Wort Chiller&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has a few advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better cold break&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less chance for unwanted organisms to get a foothold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimizes the time wort is in the DMS-precursor-producing temperature range&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better retention of Hop aromatics and flavor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="1933" LastEditDate="2011-12-21T21:46:16.233" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T21:46:16.233" CommentCount="8" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-02-25T14:38:35.627" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-02-25T14:39:00.463" Score="13" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Full Wort Boils&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiling your full volume of wort&amp;nbsp;— as opposed to boiling a concentrated portion of your wort and then adding water to the fermenter to reach your full volume&amp;nbsp;— will significantly increase your hop utilization rates.  Your hops simply cannot perform to their full potential in the high sugar concentration of a partial boil.  Your IBUs will much better match the recipe's predictions if you perform a full-volume boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full wort boils also helps prevent darkening of wort color.  Full wort boils help keep your blonde ales from being golden ales and your pales from being ambers.  Concentrated boils tend to promote more &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maillard_reaction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Maillard reactions&lt;/a&gt; within the wort, thus darkening the final beer slightly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T00:23:08.863" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T00:23:08.863" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-02-25T14:39:00.463" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-02-25T14:39:36.940" Score="19" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yeast Managment&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast produce different flavors during the phases in their &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/87/whats-the-difference-between-primary-secondary-fermentation/88#88&quot;&gt;lifecycle&lt;/a&gt;.  Pitching the right quantity of healthy yeast is in the top two most important things you can do to control fermentation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ester production occurs most strongly during the growth phase, when you first pitch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast uses oxygen to bud (grow). Insufficient aeration leads to incomplete fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-02-25T17:08:45.990" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-02-25T14:39:36.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-02-25T14:40:22.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Going All-Grain&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-25T14:40:22.307" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-02-25T14:40:22.307" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-02-25T14:49:36.940" Score="12" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Reading &lt;em&gt;Designing Great Beers&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By Ray Daniels.  It's packed full of principles and practicalities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381500&quot;&gt;Buy it on Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-02-25T16:58:16.430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-25T16:58:16.430" CommentCount="7" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-02-25T14:49:36.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-02-25T14:52:30.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Good Vorlauf&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've gone all-grain improving your recirculation will leave proteins in the mash.  This increases beer clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-02-25T14:59:05.573" LastActivityDate="2010-02-25T14:59:05.573" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-02-25T14:52:30.090" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-02-25T14:56:51.020" Score="28" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Patience&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, this mostly applies to fermentation. Allow it to complete then wait a few more days.  After packaging chill undisturbed for at least two weeks so suspended particles fall to the bottom.  Like a good soup or pasta sauce, give the flavors a chance to mingle and mellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-25T14:56:51.020" CommentCount="8" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-02-25T14:56:51.020" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-02-25T16:36:43.837" Score="19" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Reading &lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By John Palmer.  It's available to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/&quot;&gt;read online for free&lt;/a&gt;, or you can &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381888&quot;&gt;buy a hard copy&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt; is an amazing book for beginners to read and experts to reference.  No brewer should go without reading it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-02-25T16:57:24.217" LastActivityDate="2010-02-25T16:57:24.217" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-02-25T16:36:43.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1613" CreationDate="2010-02-26T00:24:58.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6.5 Gallon: 20.5&quot; tall (neck included) X 12&quot; in diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 Gallon: 19.25&quot; tall (neck included) X 10.5&quot; in diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-26T00:24:58.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1620" CreationDate="2010-02-26T00:38:24.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the mini auto siphon.  I've confirmed I received the mini one, and yeah, it doesn't reach the bottom of a 5 or 6.5 gallon carboy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-02-26T00:38:24.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1640" CreationDate="2010-02-26T01:15:33.950" Score="3" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to use up all my leftovers from recent batches, augmented with minimal newly-purchased ingredients, to make an oatmeal stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I need to mash the oats, so I picked up a pound of 2-row at the LHBS the other day.  I already had 14 ounces of it leftover from a previous recipe that called for just two ounces.  So I plan to mash a pound of flaked oats with 30 ounces of 2-row.  Should I add my specialty grains to this mini mash, or should I just steep them separately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-09-12T09:22:10.990" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T09:22:10.990" Title="Should I include my specialty grains in a mini-mash?" Tags="|ingredients|mash|specialty-grains|oats|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1637" CreationDate="2010-02-26T04:37:41.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using flaked oats you can add the steeping grains to the mini mash and save yourself some time.  If the oats are un-malted you need to do a cereal mash to gel the oats and release their starches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-02-26T04:37:41.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1637" CreationDate="2010-02-26T12:34:39.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flaked oats, like quaker oats, have been pregelatinized so you can mash them directly.  Malted or not has nothing to do with it.  Irish oats or steel cut need to under go a gelatinization process, via cooking them.  This makes the starches accessable to the mashing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add your specialty grains if you don't have space limitations in your mini-mash tun.  Otherwise you can just steep them in your brewing water while the mash happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to set up my mini-mash, then I'd get the water heating in my brewkettle and steep my grains while it heated.  After steeping, I'd start adding my extracts and get the boil going.  Right about then the mash would be done and I'd sparge that into the brew pot too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing it this way of course, I was doing full volume boils however.  If you're mini mashing and doing partial boils that may not be feasable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-26T12:34:39.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1502" CreationDate="2010-02-26T13:42:18.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Discuss compensating for factors such as:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inconsistent crush&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA; Invest in a better mill or inspect the one you have more closely.  A good mill should maintain a the same gap in it always.  Perhaps using a gap feeler to measure the gap each time would help here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Varying efficiencies&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA; This comes from two places, first you need a consistent crush.  Next, you'll need to pay attention to batch to batch variation of your base malt.  This requires getting the malt analysis sheet for each lot of base malt you use.  If you are using the same 50lb sack of malt for a couple batches, then the variability is coming from your crush or your mash.  To overcome mash variabilities, you need to calculate your recipe for ~5% increase in final gravity than what you want.  That way if you want a 1.050OG you mash for a 1.055 and dilute the resultant wort preboil to 1.050OG.  Sometimes you'll get 1.057 others 1.052, but you'll always be able to adjust to 1.050 preboil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;%AA differences in hops&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Obviously a good calculator for hopping rates is vital.  Variability in bitterness again comes from variation in gravities in the kettle too.  So strict gravity and volume readings is essential.  If your hop bill is all a single varietal of hop then its tough to replicate batch to batch if you don't use the same lot/farm of hops (i.e. bought in bulk)  But if you use a blend of hops to achieve each bitterness, flavor and aroma it becomes eaiser for the sublte variation to get smoothed out.  So that is more of a recipe thing than technique. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never had a lot of trouble with batch to batch variablitity.  But I tend to brew only a handful of recipes alot.  That is not the norm for homebrewers.  Most homebrewers rarely brew the same recipe twice. To really get consistent, you need to pick one recipe and brew it over and over.  I think consistancy comes from really knowing how to push your equipment.  We all tend to tweak and tweak and tweak.  But for consistancy you just need to brew over and over, changing very little. If you do that consistancy will come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-02-26T13:42:18.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1653" CreationDate="2010-02-27T16:52:51.273" Score="11" ViewCount="6742" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about this recently, so I figured I'd ask it here. Is there any reason you couldn't use two strains of yeast in the same batch of beer? For a particularly high gravity amber ale, for example, is there any reason I couldn't pitch 5g worth of American Ale and American Ale II? I've seen it before where people will split a batch, pitch Brett lambicus into one fermenter and Brett bruxellensis into another fermenter and then later blend both batches into one for secondary, but I haven't seen other instances of this with non-Brett yeast. This is more musing than practical, so I anticipate getting some down votes, but I figured I would put it here anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-02T13:27:01.713" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T18:04:48.420" Title="Using Multiple Strains of Yeast in the Same Batch?" Tags="|yeast|techniques|ingredients|flavor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1647" CreationDate="2010-02-27T16:58:14.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't think of a reason not to try it. There some examples in the pro-brewing world too.  Some high gravity beers are finished with a different yeast and some beers are bottle conditioned with different fresh yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Go for it.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-02-27T16:58:14.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1578" CreationDate="2010-02-28T20:06:57.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another totally different, and more plausible answer, in the case of Northern Brewer's Kolsch recipe is that it's difficult to divide liquid extract to get the exact right gravity.  For that recipe, 1 lb of DME early gives enough for hop extraction, and 6 lbs late gives the rest of the OG. With their raw materials, which are generally 3.15 lb and 6 lb LME jugs, and 1 lb DME bags, it's possible they want to fill in a little more gravity with the DME, without going so far as adding another full or half jug of LME.  The recipe you've posted, though, does not fit with this explanation.  2.75 lbs of DME is not all that far from 3 lbs of LME, which is a pretty standard size, so still not explanation for the specific case you mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-02-28T20:06:57.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1652" CreationDate="2010-02-28T21:18:36.563" Score="6" ViewCount="6155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are several questions on the forum about OG being lower than predicted.  Please bear with me though.  I'm at a loss.  I just brewed a straightforward extract wheat beer recipe.  The fermentables were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 lb Crystal 60L, steeped in 0.5 gallons 150F water for 20 minutes, sparged (rinsed) with 0.5 gallons 150F water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5.5 lb Briess light DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 lb Briess wheat DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recipe listed the OG as 1.051-1.053.  Beer Calculus puts it at 1.055.  My OG reading came in at 1.090.  That's really, really high.  What gives.  Here's what I can rule out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inaccurate hydrometer.  I tested it in 60F water and it reads 1.000.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added too much DME.  I quadrouple checked.  I used a 5 lb sack of light DME from Austin Homebrew.  I measured another 0.5 lb, and measured out 0.5 lb of wheat DME.  I did not weigh the 5 lb sack to ensure it was 5 lbs.  The label does say 5 lb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Final volume - I used 5.5 gallons of spring water today - 2.5 in the boil, 3 to top off the fermenter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hop debris.  I did not filter the wort when pouring it into the fermenter.  The sample I took for the OG had a lot of pellet hop debris in it.  Could this provide lift to the hydrometer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poorly mixed wort.  I poured the 2.5 gallons of cooled wort into the fermenter then added 3 gallons of bottled spring water.  Maybe it wasn't thoroughly mixed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you ever seen this issue?  I could understand a few points, but 35 points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:18:40.717" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T00:02:47.720" Title="Why would OG be significantly higher than predicted?" Tags="|specific-gravity|original-gravity|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1650" CreationDate="2010-02-28T21:58:13.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That does seem strange.  If you didn't mix in the spring water well then that is most likely the culprit.  You could have collected a sample from the more dense portion of the wort.  Off the top of my head here are a few other things that could create (usually small) changes in OG readings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you do a temperature correction for your wort gravity reading?  If your hydrometer is calibrated at 60 F, then your sample needs to be 60 F, or you have to do a correction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did the recipe actually call for LME, but you used DME instead?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the recipe - Maybe the recipe is for 6 gallons in the kettle, 5.5 gallons in the fermentor (minus trub) and 5 gal finished beer.  So you could have brewed a slightly smaller batch than the recipe called for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-02-28T21:58:13.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1650" CreationDate="2010-03-01T14:27:39.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A number that big strictly sounds like mixing errors to me.  Stratification of warm wort and cold top off water happens a lot.  You need to shake vigorously anyway to get some aeration into the fermentor.  Take your gravity readings after that step in the future.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you used 2.5 gallon of water for the boil and 3 gallons to top off, what happened to the water that evaporated during the boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the additive errors with mixing and stratification have given you the wrong reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be sure to twirl the hydrometer in the testing sample after it sits a bit.  This gets air bubbles and floating debris off the hydrometer.  These, too, can falsify your reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T00:02:47.720" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T00:02:47.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1647" CreationDate="2010-03-01T14:32:29.313" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done this with good results in the past.  There is no reason at all to not try yeast combinations. Yeast is just another ingredient for the most part.  Combining two strains to get a little of both character certainly adds complexity to the brew.  I have found that when combining something like WLP001 with other strains, you can tone-down the other strains flavor contributions a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly I combined WLP001 with some Fermentis S-04 to get better flocculation of the WLP001.  WLP001 is a notoriously slow flocculator compared to the English yeast S-04.  Sure enough the S-04 helped pull down the WLP001 sooner that it would have happened otherwise.  I even had two batches side by side with the blend and the solo WLP001.  SO I was able to confirm the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definately go for this type of experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-01T14:32:29.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1657" CreationDate="2010-03-01T22:14:10.483" Score="12" ViewCount="5412" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of using irish moss versus whirlfloc tablets for clarifying beer?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-02T13:31:09.570" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T18:57:28.443" Title="Whirlfloc versus irish moss - pros and cons?" Tags="|irish-moss|clarity|ingredients|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1655" CreationDate="2010-03-02T12:24:21.920" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used Irish moss for many years before switching to whirlfloc. But I think that was an availability thing more than anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Irish Moss:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;PRO&lt;/em&gt;- Works great everytime.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;PRO&lt;/em&gt;- Cheap&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;PRO&lt;/em&gt;- easily scaleable to any size batch&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;CON&lt;/em&gt;- Need to measure it out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Whirlfloc:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;PRO&lt;/em&gt;- Works great everytime. I found it was even mildly better that IM, but that's tough to call.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;PRO&lt;/em&gt;- Tablet is great and no measuring required, 5 gallon/s per tab.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;CON&lt;/em&gt;- Tablet doesn't easily allow for a non-5gallon interval brew (say you did 8 gallon batches or a 3 gallon batch) This is trivial, but you could in theory over do it if you were doing small batches.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;CON&lt;/em&gt;- More expensive than IM, but we're talking nickels not dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In my experience whirlfloc is easier to use, with few draw backs.  But in real world application the two are practically the same performance wise.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-02T12:24:21.920" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1691" CreationDate="2010-03-02T13:22:45.890" Score="11" ViewCount="1802" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the best fruits for brewing fruit beers?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some fruits appear to be classics like cherries raspberries.  Some fruits you rarely hear about like kiwi and papya.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which fruits have flavor profiles strong enough to add to beers and which don't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T04:59:09.120" Title="Fruit for fruit beers" Tags="|ingredients|flavor|techniques|fruit|additives|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2104" CreationDate="2010-03-02T14:10:33.893" Score="7" ViewCount="2026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious to know what stale beer really tastes like.  For me I can read about what certain off flavors are supposed to taste like.  However, taste and flavor can be so subjective its hard to really now until someone says; &quot;Here, this is really stale.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was wondering if anyone knew the best way to maybe force stale a beer in a closed bottle?  Or how best to doctor a beer to get it to stale after opening?&#xA;What is stale beer supposed to taste like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  Are there any BJCP instructors on-line here that can speak to how the BJCP trains judges to pick out oxidation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-03T15:51:43.250" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T17:29:59.447" Title="Taste Test for Stale Beer" Tags="|off-flavor|flavor|taste|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1659" CreationDate="2010-03-02T14:40:59.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Order something from Amazon.com&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open a package of unsalted saltines and leave it on top of the refrigerator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once your package arrives, enjoy your purchase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a 2 inch square piece from the cardboard box &amp;amp; soak in warm water for 10 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the wet cardboard and pat dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Break up stale saltines and sprinkle on top of the damp cardboard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Serve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All kidding aside, I'm not sure how to make your beer stale without opening the package. You could possibly get this effect by aerating a few bottles at packaging time.  Oxygen is one of the spoiling agents.  Or find a beer made overseas - a British ale would be my first choice. Time and oxygen are the enemies here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adventurous can spend money to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flavoractiv.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;buy off-flavors&lt;/a&gt; which they put in perfectly good beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-02T14:40:59.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1659" CreationDate="2010-03-02T15:10:21.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you can taste &quot;stale&quot; in hoppy beers that have been sitting around for a while. It's definitely a matter of personal opinion, but try a super hoppy beer the day it comes off the line, and try one after its been on the shelf for a few months. A great example of this is 90 minute. Or, to try at home, dry hop a pale ale or IPA, and let it sit in secondary for a few months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-03-02T15:10:21.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1288" CreationDate="2010-03-02T16:13:13.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An as-of-yet unmentioned pro for plastic, when used in bucket form, is that it has a standard bucket handle which really helps when transporting a full fermenter.  To safely transport a full carboy (glass or plastic), you need to attach something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1580170773&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Hauler&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An as-of-yet unmentioned con against plastic buckets is that removing the lid can be very difficult.  I always had to fight with it, and I'm not the tiniest guy.  It could be nearly impossible for some people.  Removing the rubber stopper from a carboy takes little effort.  They do make &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0002Y1SIW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bucket lid removers&lt;/a&gt;, though.  One more thing to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use carboys because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rubber gasket in the airlock hole in the lid of my bucket dry-rotted.  I had to replace the bucket lid.  That's $3.  Then I noticed that my bucket had become quite scratched because I stored my other gear in it.  It was due to be replaced.  Another $11.  So I decided to spend $30 instead of $14 for what seemed like a step upward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My bucket always smelled funky due to the plastic's absorbing the smell of fermenting beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I really like being able to see what's happening in the fermeneter.  I still love seeing the krausen and watching the yeast chunks swirl around during the most active days of primary fermentation.  That's an intangible benefit for me.  A better bottle would meet this criterion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: PJ - you can replace the Amazon links with this site's Amazon referral links and remove this note.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-03-02T16:13:13.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1664" CreationDate="2010-03-02T16:23:58.930" Score="8" ViewCount="3678" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it's time to rack or bottle, do you have to move your fermenter?  For instance, my fermenters sit in the closet of my office room until it's time to rack or bottle, at which point I move them to the kitchen counter.  This bothers me because I know the shifting process disturbs the trub or sediment, sort of defeating one of the purposes of conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have a setup where you don't have to move your fermenters before racking or bottling?  If so, describe it.  If not, how long do you let them sit after moving them before siphoning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T20:37:14.040" Title="How do you avoid disturbing sediment when moving your fermenter to rack or bottle?" Tags="|racking|bottling|sediment|trub|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1663" CreationDate="2010-03-02T16:59:28.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never found moving a secondary around to disturb the stuff at the bottom of the carboy too much.  Most of the fluid movement is at the surface and it takes a lot of sloshing to translate that through the entire fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever possible, I have moved the carboy the night before so it would settle out by morning.  Or I'd move it in the morning and do my racking at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays, I am pretty much just moving the fermentor out of the fridge and putting it on a work surface only 5-10 feet away.  So it doesn't get very jostled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-02T16:59:28.903" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1666" CreationDate="2010-03-03T13:48:21.510" Score="9" ViewCount="3773" Body="&lt;p&gt;Southern English brown ale, which I like, seems to differ from porter, which I dislike, by only a matter of degree.  It just seems to be about the amount of specialty grains.  Is there any other difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-03T14:06:52.387" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T07:50:03.910" Title="What's the line between brown ale and porter?" Tags="|ale|beer-styles|flavor|recipe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1665" CreationDate="2010-03-03T14:12:48.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Southern English Brown is mildly sweet and Porter can be fairly dry and and roasty.  I think it matters upon the substyle of Porter one is looking at.  Robust Porter is the substyle most people are familiar with and I view it very different in flavor and composition that a Southern English Brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was forced to draw the line to bend my thoughts to your question I'd say the difference is that more often than not you are going to see some black patent in the Porter and probably not see it in the Brown Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I view Porter as being having roasted, coffee and almost burnt flavors.  With a mild malt undertone.  Brown Ale in general is more chocolate, toasted bread like and mildly fruity (if english) in character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T14:12:48.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1618" CreationDate="2010-03-03T14:15:11.500" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's reasonable to assume that &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; happens in the process of evaporating down to syrup or DME, and that that &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; differs from a wort made fresh by mashing.  From what I've read, it's a combination of sweetness from under-attenuation, and off flavors from the production/storage of syrup.  I've not really identified a particular flavor that I associate with it. Perhaps when there were fewer and less fresh options on the market, it was a more common occurrence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a pretty scientific hobby, brewers tend to be rather superstitious. Superstitions arise whenever there's unpredictable results from a complicated process over which you cannot have full control (e.g., life). Unfortunately, for most defects and off-flavors, the only explanation or advice, even from experienced brewers, is &quot;Do it again and be more rigorous in your sanitation and temperature control.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extract twang would seem to be in a different class of defects. It's associated with &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; major ingredient in your beer, and apparently cannot be got rid of, but only masked.  If it's a problem with all extracts, it should show up to some degree or another with every extract batch made from the same lot.  If you're brewing with the level of consistency that allows you to taste a consistent off-flavor with every extract batch, you're doing pretty well. If you detect this consistent off-flavor across multiple styles, you might consider the extract as a culprit and include a partial-mash step in your brewing to mitigate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T14:15:11.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1669" CreationDate="2010-03-03T15:12:47.657" Score="27" ViewCount="32718" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read up a decent amount on conditioning in growlers before attempting it. I wanted to share my experience and see if others had had similar experiences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinking, of course, is to minimize bottle-washing. From my research, the dangers were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large serving size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor carbonation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle integrity, namely, the bottom falling out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured all of these could be mitigated through selection of the right beer.  For instance, an English bitter has low gravity and low carbonation, and is conducive to a large serving size. One growler would fill three imperial pints handily, then be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;http://bierkraft.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;used high-quality growlers from a local beer specialty store&lt;/a&gt;, and bottled half a batch in five growlers, the remainder in 22 oz bottles.  Here's the good:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The carbonation was right, although a little less in the growlers than in the 22's. Actually, the growler beer is closer to an English bitter's level of carbonation than the 22's, which is a bit too lively.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The taste is fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The growlers held up well. I kept them in a tub so as to minimize the destruction possible with a 64 oz failure.  I can't say that they'll be reliable batch after batch, but they worked just fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the bad... Really just a quibble, but it might scuttle this effort for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Growlers are fatter for the same height. That means that when you're pouring that third pint, you're going to get a cloudy, yeasty beer. The larger surface area on the bottom makes for a thinner, less cohesive yeast cake from conditioning, plus more &quot;wash-off&quot; as the final beer drains off the yeast cake. To add to that, your third pint is made up mostly of the bottom two inches of the bottle, where all the yeast is anyway. This works if you've got two friends over and you don't like one of them very much, but if you want to be hospitable, it means you need to bite the bullet and take the murky pint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could see brewing a different beer, like an intentionally cloudy wheat beer into growlers to mitigate this, but those beers classically require a higher level of carbonation, which would endanger the bottles, so I'm not willing to go there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This worked out far better than people told me it would, but it's not what I'd call an unqualified success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's over a year later and I never really revisited carbonating in growlers since that first experiment. I now have moved on to kegging and never looked back. For people who keg their beer, there is still one very good use case for conditioning in growlers: overshooting the batch volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a mark on my primaries that will tell me exactly how much to fill in order to fit the results into a Corny keg (if racking right to keg). Sometimes I overshoot the mark. In these cases, when racking from 6 gallon primary to 5 gallon secondary or keg, I'll throw 4-5 &lt;a href=&quot;http://is.gd/Ye0Jei&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coopers Carbonation Drops&lt;/a&gt; into a sanitized growler, rack half a gallon into the growler, cap it, repeat if necessary, then proceed as usual. No beer is wasted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even then, a 2L soda bottle and a carbonator cap are far better than bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2012-12-05T17:55:02.877" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T15:34:09.277" Title="Can I condition in growlers?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|conditioning|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1668" CreationDate="2010-03-03T15:50:24.763" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the biggest problem with one person drinking from a growler of beer (even if you want to drink the three pints yourself) is the pour and repour.  Your surface area issues and estimations in releation to a normal 12 or 22oz bottle are good.  However, if you poured three 4oz samples from a 12 oz bottle you'd be stirring up the yeast just as often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To dodge the issue, (and maybe un-scuttle the cons of the technique) I'd recommend gently pouring the entire growler into a pitcher.  This should be fine seeing as you plan to drink the whole growler anyway once open with a session beer like English Bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its similar in theory to decanting wine.  Get all the beer off the sediment in one shot.&#xA;That should eliminate your only negative you have listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding carbonation:  Brewpubs routinely fill a beer with 'normal' carbed levels of IPA or pilsner and sell them. I think that would be fine for most applications at home too.  The key to reducing the threat of growler bombs, would be to ensure your fermentation is done, and being meticulous about the amount of priming sugar being used.  Combining those two factors, you should be able to condition in a growler just fine without the fear of explosion.  There are a handful of breweries that bottle beer in growlers for production so the integrity of the growler is fine for most carbonation applications.&#xA;Lastly, growlers (and 12oz commercial beer bottles) are typically thinner walled than the bottles we get for bottling homebrew.  They are more prone to failure after a few applications.  So to reduce the growler bomb concern even more, I'd only use the growler a few times before retiring it to a life of yeast starters.  (not a bad retirement for a growler).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2011-03-01T15:10:29.157" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T15:10:29.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1575" CreationDate="2010-03-03T16:31:55.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What's your opinion on them?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My opinion is that I have always worried about wort caramelization on the heating element.  I wonder how hard that is to clean and does a poor cleaning job effect performance of the element.  I would really be interested in an electric HLT, that I could set to a timer.  That way I could have water heated to my strike temp before I get home from work.  Then I can just mix the water and grains in my mash tun and I am off to the races... now that would be cool and save time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Have you ever used one?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Never have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How is it different from the more traditional methods?&lt;/em&gt; &#xA;Should be the same as traditional brewing.  Boiling is boiling.  I defer to my comments on the element itself above.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is it worth the cost?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If it makes good beer and makes the process enjoyable to keep you happy... its worth it.  Definately a good option for people that want to brew indoors or on a condo patio or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this answers your original questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T16:31:55.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1681" CreationDate="2010-03-03T17:06:37.173" Score="41" ViewCount="20724" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the great perks of homebrewing is the ability to reuse, rather than just recycle the bottles that come into your house.  You just soak off the labels and re-use!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All bottles are not created equal, and neither are all labels. Some are easy to soak off, but leave residue. Painted bottles mean you forever have to brand your beer as someone else's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What commercial beers do you like because the bottles are easy to re-use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There used to be an extra credit question, but most people like One Step for soaking off, and I totally concur. Star San will apparently eat the silk screened paint off the painted bottles.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2011-04-06T01:03:04.603" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T18:50:19.597" Title="What are the easiest and hardest commercial beer bottles to re-use for homebrew?" Tags="|equipment|bottles|labels|" AnswerCount="24" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-07-05T15:10:23.220" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-03T17:06:37.173" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2010-03-03T17:26:51.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Bottles&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Place your winners and duds (and notes if you like) in PJ's &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/892/what-beer-bottles-are-good-for-reuse/902#902&quot;&gt;global breakdown&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Soaking&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An investment of $6 on some heavy-duty rubber gloves, and $2 on some light cotton gloves, which I wear inside them, has made a huge difference. The ability to work with hotter water means less elbow grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read a recommendation to use StarSan for soaking. It made no difference. I used One-Step and it seems to make a big difference, especially in the scrubbing step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T21:11:22.260" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-03T17:26:51.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1668" CreationDate="2010-03-03T17:56:51.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend against carbonating in growler. The thin walls are not designed for high pressure. If your beer didn't finish completely, you have an infection, or you accidentally use too much priming sugar that thing is going to explode.  And it may wait to explode until you pick it up, shooting glass in your arm, face, and dropping glass on your foot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once had a bottle bomb that shot glass into my leg from a few feet away, nothing to mess with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend kegging and then using the growler to transport your beer. No bottle washing neccessary and a lot safer!  Plus, no sediment in your growler. If you dont have a kegerator, use priming sugar and use CO2 to just push the beer into your growlers or bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T17:56:51.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2010-03-03T18:17:09.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belhaven and Samuel Smith bottles look awesome, so they get re-used.  I love the long, untapered neck.  I also think it's funny to hand somebody a label-less beer in an old &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.duvelusa.com/home.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Duvel&lt;/a&gt; bottle; It looks like I'm handing them something I bought at a store with lots of neon in the windows located in the seedy section of town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IIRC, Leffe labels come off very easily.  But I think they're 11.2 ounce bottles, not that it really matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T18:17:09.947" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-03T18:17:09.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1575" CreationDate="2010-03-03T18:26:29.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest you build your own. There is a great how to build a heat stick thread on homebrew talk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that carmelization is not an issue using immersion heater elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to provide enough heat for a rolling boil you will need 220 VAC and at least a 4000-5000 watt element I believe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electricty is dangerous, so is propane. Make sure you take every precaution neccessary. And use a GFCI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a heat stick for raising the steps in my MT, heating strike water, and heating my sparge water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use an Ultra Low Watt Density electric heater element in my RIMS to control mash temperature..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No problems so far with carmelization.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="368" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T18:26:29.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1663" CreationDate="2010-03-03T19:56:50.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I boil in the kitchen, ferment in the basement, and had originally thought about a setup like you describe, filling my primaries on a waist-high rack (Metro shelving) to make the racking process easier on my back and better for the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would still be considering this if I wasn't considering a chest freezer for temperature control, which pretty much requires me to load and unload from the top, meaning it'll be on the ground and I'll always disturb some sediment.  I don't want to go off-topic here, but having considered the options, the trade-off I'm making is somewhat disturbed sediment for better temperature control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm finding there's a lot of these trade-offs as I build out my system.  I hate answers that don't answer the question so here's mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I manhandle the carboy from floor to laundry table and auto-siphon (with tip) into [secondary|bottling bucket]. I use the bung from the unstoppered carboy to prop it up on one side to get all the beer. I try not to actually slosh and disturb the compacted layers of the yeast cake, but beyond that, I don't bother much. The cloudiness over the top layer is mostly viable yeast, and that's all I usually get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T19:56:50.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2010-03-03T19:57:25.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anchor Brewing- They look good and the labels come off easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Name" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T19:57:25.880" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-03T19:57:25.880" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1679" CreationDate="2010-03-03T19:59:41.137" Score="2" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I identify &quot;house&quot; flavor as a similar flavor that carries across several different styles of beer from the same brewery.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What parts of the brewing process or ingredients lend to &quot;house&quot; flavor the most?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What commercial breweries in your area, or in your experience have a distinct house flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T20:28:27.960" Title="Does your beer have a &quot;house&quot; flavor?" Tags="|flavor|ingredients|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-03-03T20:01:31.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think possible sources could include:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Water chemistry&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Single house yeast&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Affinity to one variety of bittering hop &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my area, shipyard brewing in Maine has been labelled as having a diacetyl (butter-like) house flavor.  Predominantly from the use of Ringwood Ale yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-03T20:28:27.960" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T20:28:27.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-03-03T20:17:41.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One brewery I have been to in Michigan called Hereford and Hops the house flavor is buttery diacetyl because he's not resting his beers long enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that most &quot;house flavors&quot; have to do with the brewer being addicted to a single ingredient or technique that creates it.  Really, other than water chemistry (which can and should be adjusted anyway) most house flavor is really &quot;house flaw&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T20:17:41.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2010-03-03T20:56:37.533" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you don't have enough reputation to edit this list, leave your addition as a comment, and someone will add it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Easy to re-use&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;USA&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;West&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(AK, HI, CA, OR, WA, ID, NV, AZ) &lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anchor Brewing&lt;/strong&gt;- They look good and the labels come off easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alaskan Brewing Company&lt;/strong&gt; Come of easily with water but do require a much longer than expected soak (possibly over night)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deschutes&lt;/strong&gt; labels fall right off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Elysian&lt;/strong&gt; The non-paper labels are not paper and peel cleanly off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Redhook&lt;/strong&gt; labels come off easily while drinking them, even easier once they touch OxyClean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trader Joe's&lt;/strong&gt; house beer labels come off easily, and the bottles are easy to clean. They're also a good standard size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Old Redwood Brewing Co.&lt;/strong&gt; labels are sticky, but the bottles are 22oz swing-tops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drake's Brewing&lt;/strong&gt; labels &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; come off very easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Rockies&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(UT, MT, WY, CO, NM)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fort Collins&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Great Divide&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Odell's&lt;/strong&gt;  Fall right off after a mild soak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New Belgium&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Marble&lt;/strong&gt; plastic over paper, takes a long soaking, but eventually paper can be rubbed off with no residue, currently local to NM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Central&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(ND, SD, NE, KS, OK, TX, MN, IA, MO, AR, LA, WI, IL, MS, MI, IN, KY, TN, AL, OH, WV)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bell's&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Founders&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Furthermore&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Great Lakes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lucky Bucket&lt;/strong&gt; (only available in NE)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New Glarus&lt;/strong&gt; (only available in WI)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Schell's&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sierra Nevada&lt;/strong&gt; Labels soak off. Glue yields to minimal scrubbing with a coarse sponge [Editor's note: I (JackSmith) found these labels to tear and shred after quite a soak.]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summit&lt;/strong&gt;: They changed their glue, and labels will peel right off with standard oxy/PBW soak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;East&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(ME, NH, VT, CT, RI, MA, NY, NJ, DE, MD, DC, PA, WV, VA, NC, SC, GA, FL)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brewery Ommegang&lt;/strong&gt; require a bit of a longer soak, but then the labels come off easily&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dogfish Head&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Duck Rabbit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heavy Seas&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Highland Brewing&lt;/strong&gt; from Asheville, NC. Labels are like a vinyl sticker that come off in a single sheet every time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long Trail&lt;/strong&gt; labels come off well and don't leave much residue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sam Adams&lt;/strong&gt; require a longer soak and labels peel a bit, but not too difficult overall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saranac&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Terrapin&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tröegs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Victory&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wyerbacher&lt;/strong&gt; require a bit of a longer soak, but then the labels come off easily&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Canada&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sleeman&lt;/strong&gt;  The tiny label comes off easily with a bit of soaking.  And though the bottles are clear, the boxes they come in provide protection from skunking.  They are twist-offs, and they cap very well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UK&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuller's&lt;/strong&gt; - Labels come off easily with a hot water / OxyClean soak.  The 16.9oz / 500mL bottles pour a perfect pint and appear to be made of thicker glass than most other bottles this size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Samuel Smith&lt;/strong&gt; labels generally come off well and the bottles look good.  The foil around the neck takes a bit of work, but doesn't put up much of a fight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Marston's&lt;/strong&gt; labels come off after a 5-min soak and you get them in brown and clear.  586ml volume.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wychwood&lt;/strong&gt; - Nice Shape with a raised pattern of witch on broomstick, labels slide off with little soak, strong brown bottles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Europe&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Das Helles&lt;/strong&gt; Swing Top Brown Strong Bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Belgium&lt;/strong&gt;.  I've been able to easily remove the labels from every Belgian bottle I've tried, with just a soak in water.  This applies to all the Trappist beers, abbey ales including Leffe, and all the small breweries.  Not sure about Stella and Hoegaarden.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Augustijn&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brouwerij Van Steenberge N.V.&lt;/strong&gt; (Gulden Draak) - plastic shrink wrap, comes off easily&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Duvel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Krusovice Pilsener&lt;/strong&gt; - sometimes a little difficulty with the foil neck ring, but it's well worth the effort. Labels slip off in hot water with One-Step, little residue, and the bottles are 16 oz high-quality Euro bottles that retail for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/bottling/bottles/beer-bottles-16-oz.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;buck fifty a piece&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Palm&lt;/strong&gt;, a Belgian beer, labels and foil neck ring slipped off after a night in cold water. No residue. A mild concern that the glass seems a bit thin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paulaner&lt;/strong&gt; - similar to Krusovice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spaten Munchen Dunkel&lt;/strong&gt; is a dream. The labels slip off in hot water, leaving almost no residue. One downside is that they're green bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Australia / New Zealand&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coopers&lt;/strong&gt; - Labels fall right off after a quick (30s) soak, although newer bottles have the Coopers logo embossed in the glass.  Some residue left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rekorderlig&lt;/strong&gt; cider bottles (500mL) come right off, no residue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;VB&lt;/strong&gt; - Labels fall right off with a quick soak &amp;amp; some slight residue left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Little Creatures&lt;/strong&gt; - pale ale (330mL) - Labels fall right off after a quick soak. No residue &amp;amp; caps easily. Bottle has LC angel logo embossed on neck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;China&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tsing Tao&lt;/strong&gt; - only 600mL, but perfect neck and top for recapping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Japan&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kirin&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;strong&gt;Asahi&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hard to re-use&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;USA&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;West&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(AK, HI, CA, OR, WA, ID, NV, AZ) &lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sierra Nevada&lt;/strong&gt; labels come off just fine, but leave a non-water-soluble goo [Editor's note: Goo yields to minimal scrubbing with a coarse sponge.]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stone&lt;/strong&gt; Painted on labels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ninkasi&lt;/strong&gt; even after long soaks, and much scrubbing and scrapping these persisted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Rockies&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(UT, MT, WY, CO, NM)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Central&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(ND, SD, NE, KS, OK, TX, MN, IA, MO, AR, LA, WI, IL, MS, MI, IN, KY, TN, AL, OH, WV)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Abita (LA)&lt;/strong&gt;: labels slide right off, but the crown seems to be just a tad wider than normal; capping is &lt;em&gt;tough&lt;/em&gt; and resulted in 2-3 shattered necks (and probably additional fractures).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Atwater&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Badger Hill (MN)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Celis&lt;/strong&gt; labels have a plastic film that prohibits water from penetrating the paper.  Once the film is removed, the paper tears and shreds.  Once you get that off, the glue is an insoluble rubber cement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Goose Island&lt;/strong&gt; has twist-off caps!  Did not expect that. Don't know about the labels, but twist-offs are a disqualifier for re-use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lift Bridge (MN)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sweet Magnolia (AL)&lt;/strong&gt;: same as Celis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;East&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(ME, NH, VT, CT, RI, MA, NY, NJ, DE, MD, DC, PA, WV, VA, NC, SC, GA, FL)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blue Point Toasted Lager&lt;/strong&gt; immediate disqualification on account of twist-top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Erie&lt;/strong&gt; no amount of heat will melt this glue, and no amount of scrubbing will remove the lables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Harpoon&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Magic Hat&lt;/strong&gt; labels shred but with a bit of patience and a scrubby, they come clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smuttynose&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Schmaltz Brewing / HE BREW&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Southampton Publick House&lt;/strong&gt; the paper shreds, the glue doesn't scrub off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Southern Tier&lt;/strong&gt; labels shred but with a bit of patience and a scrubby, they come clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Canada&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UK&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thwaites Tavern Porter&lt;/strong&gt; - the labels will not come off with heat and/or scrubbing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brothers Cider&lt;/strong&gt; - Plastic labels never come off, thin glass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hooch&lt;/strong&gt; - Green Bottle, weak glass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crabbies&lt;/strong&gt; - The neck of the bottle is tapered and awkward for capping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Europe&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bass&lt;/strong&gt; - the labels come off fine, but the lip is a non-standard shape with no ridge for the hand-capper to grab on to.  The result is a semi-seated cap with no indentation on it.  A proper seal is not achieved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Corsendonk&lt;/strong&gt; (8 oz Christmas) the foil around the neck is really glued on.  The paper labels come off OK, but the glue residue won't come off even with a scotch brite.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heineken&lt;/strong&gt; - their new plastic labels are a non-starter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smithwicks&lt;/strong&gt; eventually soak off, but even then the labels tear while being removed, leaving pulp (and therefore a vehicle for contamination) in the soak water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Konig Pilsner&lt;/strong&gt; - slightly odd-sized top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kopparberg&lt;/strong&gt; - The neck of the bottle is tapered and awkward for capping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Australia / New Zealand&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tooheys&lt;/strong&gt; - screw-top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Unique/Interesting Bottle Styles&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Belhaven&lt;/strong&gt; similar to Samuel Smith&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Boulevard&lt;/strong&gt; short and stout (twist-offs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chimay&lt;/strong&gt; short, stout, curved, tapered neck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Duvel&lt;/strong&gt; short and bulbous&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Founders&lt;/strong&gt; short and stout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Green Flash&lt;/strong&gt; 12 oz's have raised star/flash logo in the glass and labels come off easy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grolsch&lt;/strong&gt; large, thick green glass with a swing-top, just make sure the rubber seal is in good condition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New Belgium&lt;/strong&gt; unique tapered 12 oz. bottle, with raised ring and brewery logo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Samuel Smith&lt;/strong&gt; tall, slender, nearly no taper to neck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summit&lt;/strong&gt; short and stout, with raised brewery/hops logo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T18:50:19.597" CommentCount="18" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-03T20:56:37.533" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2010-03-03T21:12:55.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The labels on the Trader Joe's house beers come off easily, and the bottles are easy to clean. They're also a good standard size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Paul" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T21:12:55.613" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-03T21:12:55.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2010-03-03T21:22:17.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easy- Highland Brewing from Asheville, NC. Labels are like a vinyl sticker that come off in a single sheet every time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard- I 2nd the vote for magic hat. I can still tell by the residue which bottles came from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T21:22:17.227" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-03T21:22:17.227" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1685" CreationDate="2010-03-03T21:59:42.290" Score="5" ViewCount="3359" Body="&lt;p&gt;Out of curiosity (and appreciation for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blvdbeer.com/beer.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boulevard's bottle's form-factor&lt;/a&gt;), can a twist-off bottle be reliably capped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-04T12:43:03.043" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T14:37:02.420" Title="Can a twist-off bottle be capped?" Tags="|bottling|capping|equipment|techniques|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1684" CreationDate="2010-03-03T22:17:56.523" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done it a few times by accident, and it worked fine each time, but the risk of an air leak is too great to do it on purpose, in my opinion...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="498" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T22:17:56.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1684" CreationDate="2010-03-03T22:19:46.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not reliably.  The threads for the twist cap don't allow for a pop cap to securely fasten and will let the beer go flat very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastActivityDate="2010-03-03T22:19:46.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1684" CreationDate="2010-03-04T02:03:55.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, twist-off bottles are also made of thinner glass and are more susceptible to breakage.  There's a higher risk of breaking the neck off when capping and also of the bottle cracking or breaking under the pressure of carbonation.  I'd avoid using twist-off bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-03-04T02:03:55.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-04T15:45:20.033" Score="3" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never bothered to label my beer before, but I think I want to start.  Have you ever used inkjet-printable labels on your brew before?  How did they perform?  Are there any brands of labels that you could either recommend or advise to avoid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-03-04T19:43:05.787" Title="Which inkjet-printable labels perform well?" Tags="|bottling|labels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1688" CreationDate="2010-03-04T15:53:11.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used some Avery labels one time. I don't recall which number. They work great, except they don't come off. The adhesive used is pretty solid. When you soak a bottle in water, the top portion with the ink sort of crumbles, but the adhesive sticks. It's not ideal for reuse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately, when I've been sharing brews, I put a vinyl sticker on the bottle. These don't come off easily at all, but they also don't fall apart when you're cleaning them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there's a better option, like what the &quot;good&quot; breweries in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/892/&quot;&gt;this list&lt;/a&gt; use, but I don't know what they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-03-04T15:53:11.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1658" CreationDate="2010-03-04T17:05:38.980" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's probably a reason you haven't heard of people using either kiwi or papaya in brewing. Kiwi, papaya, pineapple, melon, and fig all contain enzymes (proteases) that affect proteins.  Harold McGee's &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=oWqlY5vEafIC&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;dq=on%20food%20and%20cooking%20by%20harold%20mcgee&amp;amp;pg=PA381#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;f=false&quot;&gt;On Food and Cooking&lt;/a&gt; treats this subject. Papaya has long been used as a meat tenderizer, albeit an imperfect one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The McGee piece addresses mainly these fruits' action on animal proteins, but it's entirely possible that you don't hear about these beers because they fail. Proteins are essential for head retention at the very least, and I'm sure they figure a lot more in the brewing process than I will ever understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of these fruits were not available in fruit-beer-producing countries at the time that fruit beer styles were being developed, but fig has been available all over Europe in dried form since at least Roman times. It would be a neat taste to add to a beer, and the fact that it hasn't arisen is (shaky) support for the theory that protease-containing fruit are not good in combination with beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems stone fruit and berries are the most oft-used beer flavorings, probably due to their high flavor-to-volume ratio.  I'm sure there are other undiscovered flavoring fruits out there, and I'm not one to stick only to tradition. Mangosteen or rambutan might be awesome beer flavors, but fruit chemistry is at least as complex as brewing chemistry, so there's a decent amount of trial and error or scientific inquiry to be done here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worthwhile to look at what fruit flavors infuse well in vodka as a pointer to possible other beer flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-03-04T18:41:59.887" LastActivityDate="2010-03-04T18:41:59.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1745" CreationDate="2010-03-04T17:27:24.420" Score="4" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001UFS268&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;copper-in-plastic counter-flow chiller&lt;/a&gt; seems to mitigate the effect that the high price of copper has on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/chillzilla.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;all-copper counter-flow chillers&lt;/a&gt;.  I'm not sure the Chillzilla even has to have an all-copper outer pipe. It seems to have one only because copper is more malleable than other types of pipe and so the Chillzilla can be more easily manufactured and kept small.  Even then, can either of these compete with a plate chiller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that most of the cost of a plate chiller is in manufacturing, and most of the cost of a copper-based chiller comes from raw materials. For the same price, I can go for a janky-looking, bulky hose-based chiller, or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/shirron-plate-chiller.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shirron plate chiller&lt;/a&gt;.  I know there are cleaning concerns with plate chillers, but is that really enough to warrant the price difference, given the difference in performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-04-16T16:20:27.357" Title="Is the price of copper making plate chillers the better choice?" Tags="|chilling|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1684" CreationDate="2010-03-04T17:29:42.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bottle many beers in twist off's and have had no problems at all. There is also the added benefit of twisting off the cap when they're ready to drink. I recommend them.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;mark&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;www.thebackyardbrewer.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="mark taylor" LastEditorDisplayName="mark taylor" LastEditDate="2010-03-09T14:49:23.773" LastActivityDate="2010-03-09T14:49:23.773" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1688" CreationDate="2010-03-04T19:43:05.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Avery 3/4&quot; round labels on the caps and that works great for me. Run a couple of sheets (24 labels per sheet) through the printer for each 5 gallon batch. I can easily identify what is in the bottles, and no clean-up when I re-use the bottles for the next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastActivityDate="2010-03-04T19:43:05.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2010-03-04T21:49:38.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great Lakes and Victory are the two I always keep for easy label removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brooklyn, no way their laminated labels and glue is evil. Straight to the recycler they go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jeff Bearer" LastActivityDate="2010-03-04T21:49:38.900" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-04T21:49:38.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-04T22:18:33.150" Score="5" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cider that i have been fermenting for almost two weeks.  I took a reading about four days ago and it was 1.005, we decided it was about time to bottle.  Then last night when we got around to bottling i took another reading and it was 1.018!  This is before i added the priming sugar.  I cant figure out what would have made the gravity go back up after getting down to 1.005?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jared" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T12:15:45.230" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T02:44:33.857" Title="What would make my gravity increase?" Tags="|gravity-reading|cider|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1696" CreationDate="2010-03-04T22:28:15.293" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you added sugar or evaporated water, a misreading is the only answer I can come up with. Always make sure to spin your hydrometer to ensure there are no air bubbles forcing it up higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any chance your dog knocked in a pound of DME? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-03-04T22:28:15.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1696" CreationDate="2010-03-05T00:30:37.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely user error with a small difference possible due to temperature and/or dissolved co2 floating the hydrometer. It's also possible that there is a density gradient, though it seems less likely after 2 weeks of fermenting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T00:30:37.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1701" CreationDate="2010-03-05T13:07:52.003" Score="5" ViewCount="3663" Body="&lt;p&gt;RDWHAHB. What is this curious acronym?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T17:53:27.793" LastActivityDate="2017-12-11T20:54:01.407" Title="What is RDWHAHB?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1699" CreationDate="2010-03-05T13:12:58.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://acronyms.thefreedictionary.com/RDWHAHB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://acronyms.thefreedictionary.com/RDWHAHB&lt;/a&gt;\&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Acronym    Definition&#xA;RDWHAHB Relax, Don't Worry, Have A Homebrew&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T13:12:58.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1699" CreationDate="2010-03-05T13:13:59.840" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;RDWHAHB means: Relax Don't Worry Have A Home Brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coined many years ago by the &quot;Godfather&quot; of homebrewing, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charlie_Papazian&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Charlie Papazian&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This phrase has even populated urban culture: &lt;a href=&quot;http://acronyms.thefreedictionary.com/RDWHAHB&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Urban Dictionary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find about more about this at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Homebrewers Association Website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get yourself a &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.beertown.org/brewers/product.asp?dept_id=&amp;amp;pf_id=5002_210&amp;amp;&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bumpersticker&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CHEERS!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2017-12-11T20:54:01.407" LastActivityDate="2017-12-11T20:54:01.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="895" CreationDate="2010-03-05T14:09:01.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things you need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Big enough pot for full wort boil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A heat source strong enough to get 6 gallons to a boil, without waiting all day. (Hence, the wide use of propane outdoor cookers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Capability to chill big pot filled with 5-6gallons of hot wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mashtun for converting the grain starches to sugars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Need a second pot or some planning for how you will heat sparge water and collect wort from the tun at the same time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some basic math skills are helpful for calculating efficiency, boil-off rates and dilutions should the need arise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A little DME on hand always to adjust pre boil gravities if needed the first few times you brew all-grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T14:09:01.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1734" CreationDate="2010-03-05T14:43:43.490" Score="5" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the step-by-step process for cereal mashing adjuncts?&#xA;Please include temps and grain to volume ratios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-07T21:41:52.393" Title="Cereal Mashing for Adjuncts" Tags="|mash|adjuncts|techniques|conversion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1708" CreationDate="2010-03-05T14:58:35.180" Score="7" ViewCount="3673" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eventually there comes a time where just boiling 6 gallons for 60 minutes and taking it on faith that you have 5 gallons left doesn't cut it anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tools can I use to measure the volume in the kettle when its boiling?&#xA;Should I make a correction for the increased volume due to temp? What is the correction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T12:56:05.687" Title="Kettle volume measurements" Tags="|techniques|kettle|wort|equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1716" CreationDate="2010-03-05T15:57:09.727" Score="3" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a list they care to post that lists the &quot;must mash&quot; and &quot;steepable&quot; grains?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Might be nice content for the site overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-09T20:21:04.123" Title="Grains for Mashing and Grains for Steeping" Tags="|ingredients|mash|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-05T16:00:00.907" Score="9" ViewCount="3803" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are not always one in the same.  I believe the process for making them are slightly different as well.  I just don't know what that difference is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do they differ?&#xA;Where are they made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-01-25T22:26:49.890" Title="What is the difference between Caramel Malts and Crystal Malts?" Tags="|specialty-malt|ingredients|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1717" CreationDate="2010-03-05T16:04:34.873" Score="3" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you calculate parts per million (or billion) from grams and volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this in relation to figureing out how to translate water report information into the recommended ranges of certain brewing salts for emulating water profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T19:43:31.157" Title="Parts per million" Tags="|ingredients|water|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1704" CreationDate="2010-03-05T16:06:22.547" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;3 common ways include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;1. calibrated dipstick or spoon (easiest)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before your next brew session, take a 1 gallon pitcher or some other known volume vessel. One gallon at a time, pour the water into your kettle, let it settle, then put the dipstick or spoon in. Mark the top of the wet line with a sharpie or craft knife. Repeat for each gallon. Measuring volume is now just a case of putting your dipstick in the boiling wort and reading off your volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2. calibrated sightglass (harder)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill a small hole at the bottom of your kettle and using a bulkhead fitting and street elbow create a 90° turn pointing upwards. Install a polycarbonate or glass tube into a compression fitting. Now when you pour liquid into your kettle the level will be revealed by a column of water in the polycarbonate tube. There are kits you can buy for this but beware using these on kettles as too much heat applied may melt the polycarbonate or boil the water in the tube. Glass tubes usually need some kind of protective shroud so you don't smash them. Sightglasses are perfect for vessels that are high up like a hot liquor tank where you typically can't look down into them. Calibrate as in option 1 - dipstick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3. calibrated float-tube (novel)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw this idea recently and remain intrigued. Braze/solder a stainless or copper tube into your vessel with a hole at the bottom to allow the liquid into it. in the top of the tube insert some kind of buoyant rod, like a balsa wood dowel. As the liquid in the vessel rises it pushes the dowel up and this can then be calibrated in the same way but your markings are now in reverse, i.e. the 5 gallon mark is at the bottom of the dowel, not the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T16:06:22.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1707" CreationDate="2010-03-05T16:55:54.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though, I don't know the actual math (and disappointed that it doesn't involve calculating molarity), I did find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unitconversion.org/unit_converter/concentration-solution.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this calculator&lt;/a&gt; to be helpful (if not saturated with Google ads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T16:55:54.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1712" CreationDate="2010-03-05T17:29:28.650" Score="5" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine this scenario.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/800/what-effect-would-using-less-lme-than-called-for-have&quot;&gt;Not that I know anybody who's done this&lt;/a&gt;.  Let's say it's hypothetical.  You're brewing from extract.  You cool your wort, transfer it to your fermenter, add your top-off water, and take a gravity reading.  You discover that your OG is much lower than you expect.  You shake the fermenter a bunch and take another reading.  Still low.  So you look at the recipe.  You see it called for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.75 lb DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6.6 lb LME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's then that you realize that you brewed with 2.75 lbs of DME and 2.75 lbs of LME.  You curse yourself for buying &quot;fresh&quot; DME that came in a bucket from the shop instead of just buying two 3.3 lb cans.  You want to blame the bucket, but in the end you know you're just dumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, with the wort chilled, transfered, and topped off to 5 gallons, but the yeast not yet pitched, would it be OK to bring, say, two quarts of water to a boil, add the other ~4 lbs of LME you forgot, boil it until it's fully dissolved, cool it, then add it to the fermenter?  This seems like it would be a sort of late addition, albeit a really late addition.  Would you do this?  Should I have done this?  I panicked... I mean my hypothetical character panicked and never thought of doing this to correct the OG until just now.  It's too late now, obviously, but if I'd have done this would it have done more harm than good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T18:55:13.453" Title="Would/Could you add boiled, rehydrated extract after wort is cooled &amp; topped off to boost OG?" Tags="|wort|extract|late-addition|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1706" CreationDate="2010-03-05T17:32:05.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Crystal_malt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrew Talk&lt;/a&gt;, the terms Crystal malt and Caramel malt are used interchangeably&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T17:32:05.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1710" CreationDate="2010-03-05T17:46:51.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a similar mistake before. Not quite as big a margin, but I was still way too low. I can't recall the exact numbers, but if you do the math right, you should be able to hit your gravity on the mark. You just need to figure out how much water you'll need to boil to dissolve the extract, and how much extract you'll need to bring your total volume (including this new water) up to snuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems I see would be hop utilization. The hops were added at specific times for a certain volume, and now you're going to change that volume. I don't think this would ruin the beer, but it will definitely change the flavor from what the recipe called for. Not a huge problem, but an inconsistency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/920/what-is-rdwhahb&quot;&gt;RDWHAHB&lt;/a&gt; and all that :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T20:54:03.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1723" CreationDate="2010-03-05T19:22:45.037" Score="6" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the homebrewer that grows and harvests his/her own hops; how best can one approximate the alpha acids in the hops they have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it or should brewers stick to using home grown hops for aroma and flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T02:58:49.457" Title="Estimating Alpha Acids of Home Grown Hops" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|techniques|ingredients|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1720" CreationDate="2010-03-05T19:25:21.473" Score="3" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that planting hops at home you should plant the rhizome in a mound of sorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How large around should the mound be?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What type of soil amendments are best?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How tall should the trelis be for the first year of growth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T19:59:23.373" Title="Hop Gardening Considerations" Tags="|hops|ingredients|grow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4085" CreationDate="2010-03-05T19:28:53.650" Score="7" ViewCount="2566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple kegs of beer that froze out in the garage this winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What effects should I expect on flavor, head retention and body after thawing?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My beer was relatively sediment free, but would you expect accelerated lysis of any yeast in the beer upon freezing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T20:11:56.200" Title="Thawing Frozen Beer" Tags="|storage|conditioning|aging|packaging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1705" CreationDate="2010-03-05T19:41:27.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Malts_Chart&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Malts_Chart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T19:41:27.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1707" CreationDate="2010-03-05T19:43:31.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually its moles free, so no chemistry text or periodic table needed.&#xA;I just looked it up and did the math.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1ppm means one part in one million parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance then.  1 milligram in 1 kilogram.  (1kg=1000g=1,000,000mg)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more relavant application for brewing would be mg of solid (CaCl2) in a liter of water.&#xA;Its tricky because first you need to assume that 1 gram=1milliliter of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 1 ppm is 1mg/Liter via the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1mg=0.001ml&#xA;1L=1000mL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.001/1000 = 1/1,000,000 or 1ppm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T19:43:31.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1721" CreationDate="2010-03-05T19:53:49.560" Score="9" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short of buying an oak barrel, what forms of oak are available to the homebrewer for getting oak into yuor beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they available with different levels of toast?&#xA;Are some forms easier to sanitize that others?&#xA;Do some take more time or less time to get flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="323" LastEditDate="2010-03-05T20:54:55.023" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T20:54:55.023" Title="Adding Oak Flavor/character to beer" Tags="|ingredients|oak|flavor|techniques|additives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1722" CreationDate="2010-03-05T19:54:57.390" Score="6" ViewCount="802" Body="&lt;p&gt;What other &quot;nationalities&quot; of Oak are used in brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T17:05:42.390" Title="What is different between American Oak and French Oak?" Tags="|oak|flavor|ingredients|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1714" CreationDate="2010-03-05T19:59:23.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops should be grown in well-drained soil.  Mounding aids drainage, therefore may be unnecessary.  It should be about three feet in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amend your soil with some organic matter like manure or grass clippings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your trellis should be able to support thirty pounds of bines growing twenty five feet (yes, in the first year).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T19:59:23.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1718" CreationDate="2010-03-05T20:07:42.717" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a great picture of an oak table leg sticking out the top of a carboy. Wish I could find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BYO &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/8-aging/1192-oak-alternatives&quot;&gt;covered this question&lt;/a&gt; in depth. So I won't plagiarize everything here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oak Essence and Powder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oak Chips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oak Cubes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Staves and Spirals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T20:07:42.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1719" CreationDate="2010-03-05T20:46:08.380" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about oak use in beermaking, but in winemaking, Frech oak is prized for giving a less &quot;oaky&quot; flavor while providing more tannins.  American oak contains a higher level of vanillins and imparts a stronger &quot;oak&quot; aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hungarian oak is also often used in winemaking.  I don't know anything about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine these characteristics are taken into consideration for beermaking, though I might want to think that you'd prefer the American oak with more flavor/aroma and less tannins for beer, given that tannins aren't as welcome in beer as they are in wine, and the stronger flavor and aroma need to overcome the stronger flavor and aroma of a big, smoky beer as opposed to a delicate chardonnay or well-rounded syrah.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T20:46:08.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1713" CreationDate="2010-03-05T20:50:49.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to ask this very question on here last week but I googled and found that you basically have two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Send your hops to a lab for analysis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just assume your hops have the estimated AA for the variety or as provided by the seller of your rhizome.  It was suggested that our tongues can't only detect IBU changes of 5 or greater, so if you're within plus/minus 0.5 AA of the average, you should be OK assuming the average.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-03-05T20:50:49.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1724" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-05T21:44:16.483" Score="2" ViewCount="5061" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the soil and climate of the southeast, specifically Florida, what hops would do I stand to get good results from growing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user184" LastActivityDate="2010-04-09T20:41:28.127" Title="What types of hops can be grown in the southeast?" Tags="|hops|grow|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="930" CreationDate="2010-03-06T02:11:24.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A conglomeration of your answers and my own, here is my solution. I will report back...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/cYI0kz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/cYI0kz&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excerpt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here’s my plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m going to put a slotted baking sheet over a regular flat baking sheet. I’m going to make some sort of awesome contraption of tin foil that will keep the bacon somewhat vertical. Like seats, for the bacon. I’ll take a picture when I get this going so that that makes sense. Then I’m going to bake the bacon at 400˚ (random choice of temperature) until it is super crispy. The hope is that this will cause the least amount of grease possible, while still making awesome bacon. For this first attempt, I’ll get normal bacon, not flavored with anything (like maple, pepper, whatever). I’ll also hope for thin bacon for this first attempt. Science!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it is super crispy, but NOT BURNT, I’ll break it up into smaller pieces, and soak it in some bourbon. Not sure what kind yet. I’m open to suggestions. The amount of bourbon will be determined by my stout recipe, which I haven’t written yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This vat, or at least jar of bourbon with bacon will sit in the fridge for a few weeks. I’m thinking I’ll do this tomorrow (Saturday, March 6th), and let it soak for 2-3 weeks. Hopefully any excess grease and fat will congeal and float to the top in the fridge. This will be skimmed away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the soaking is done, I’ll pour the liquid through a coffee filter. Probably two coffee filters. Twice. No fat, no chunks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I’ll add this to the secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I will win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2010-03-06T02:19:14.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1727" CreationDate="2010-03-07T11:00:19.180" Score="14" ViewCount="2247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone had suggestions on how to store one's hops pellets after having opened the sealed package (... in case one is not using the whole lot at once of course). Also, if you have experience with that, what is the longest storage time before the product starts losing quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T22:12:40.920" Title="Storage of hops pellets" Tags="|hops|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1726" CreationDate="2010-03-07T16:08:37.610" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I buy hops by the pound and store in the freezer between uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove as much air as you can. I seal in ziploc bags and squeeze the air out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep them in the freezer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Realize that hops will lose some bittering power over time. Good software can help you estimate the impact. If you them up in two to three months, the change will be minimal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying in bulk means I keep hops for the better part of a year. I have used three year old hops in beer that turned out okay. The best thing to do is trust your senses.  If the hops smell fine they should be good to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is at least one style of beer that is made with very old, cheesy smelling hops: straight lambic. You can always try one of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-07T16:08:37.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1737" CreationDate="2010-03-07T19:19:09.800" Score="14" ViewCount="19455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a new homebrewer and have a newbie question: can I skip the mash out time just replacing it by sparging since the water temperature is the same? What kind of things can happen doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T18:52:13.913" Title="Can I skip the mash out replacing it by sparging?" Tags="|mash|sparge|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1733" CreationDate="2010-03-07T20:33:28.997" Score="8" ViewCount="1934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never done any homebrewing before but I'd like to start on my own cider. I was wondering what it involves, how long it takes, what sort of equipment I need - just a general introduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="505" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:53:54.323" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:53:54.323" Title="Beginners cider homebrewing" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1731" CreationDate="2010-03-07T20:39:05.633" Score="7" ViewCount="1634" Body="&lt;p&gt;When adding something like bourbon (or other whiskeys) to the secondary, how much do you add? I realize this will differ based on recipes, tastes, and styles, but what is a good range? How much is so minimal that you won't taste it, and how much is so much that it will overpower the grains and significantly increase the ABV of the final product? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-03-08T15:12:12.627" Title="How much bourbon is the right amount?" Tags="|bourbon|whiskey|additives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1730" CreationDate="2010-03-07T20:45:12.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no right or wrong answer for this. You start small and add to taste. Of course your taste will differ from anyone else but there is no formula or standard amount. Just remember to document the amounts you add, so the next time you will have a reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="327" LastActivityDate="2010-03-07T20:45:12.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1728" CreationDate="2010-03-07T20:47:35.427" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the close to 5 years I've been brewing I have only &quot;Mashed Out&quot; maybe twice. Also now that I'm brewing at a commercial level and have for a few breweries, none of them mash out either. Recirculate and start your sparge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="327" LastActivityDate="2010-03-07T20:47:35.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1729" CreationDate="2010-03-07T21:26:30.193" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a minimum you need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a fermentation vessel (carboy, better&#xA;bottle, bucket, etc.)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an airlock &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sanitizer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apple juice with no&#xA;preservatives&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yeast - dry yeast is&#xA;good, try Nottingham (beer yeast) or&#xA;Montrachet (wine yeast), not bread&#xA;yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottles and caps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;capper (unless&#xA;you have plastic soda bottles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5-6&#xA;feet of 3/8&quot; food-grade plastic&#xA;tubing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic routine is to sanitize all of your equipment (follow instructions on package), dump the juice in the fermentation vessel, shake it for about a minute to get some oxygen in there, rehydrate the yeast (follow directions on packet), dump the yeast in and seal it up with an airlock.  Wait a few weeks until the liquid clears (is not cloudy).  After that, start a siphon with the tubing (a racking cane is cheap and extremely helpful, but not strictly required) to transfer the cider from the fermentation vessel to the bottles.  The bottles need to be sanitized before using.  Leave the sediment behind while transferring.  Seal or cap bottles.  If you want sparkling cider you can add carbonation drops to the bottles, or dissolve additional sugar in the cider before bottling (3/4 cup is about right).  If you add additional sugar it is helpful to first transfer the cider to a second clean, sanitized vessel so you can leave the sediment behind in the first.  If you made sparkling cider you'll have to keep the bottles in a warm place for 2-3 weeks to let it carbonate.  Still cider will be ready immediately.  Both will improve greatly with age.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: home-made cider is very dry and does not taste like commercial examples.  To some it is an acquired taste.  If you think it lacks apple-y flavor at first, let it age for a month or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-03-07T21:26:30.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1703" CreationDate="2010-03-07T21:41:52.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this author advocates just buying flaked grain, he has a good description of the process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopwild.com/2009/02/18/cereal-mashing-bother/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hopwild.com/2009/02/18/cereal-mashing-bother/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also check this link for photos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ingermann.com/cerealmash.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ingermann.com/cerealmash.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-03-07T21:41:52.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2010-03-08T11:00:44.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Europe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spendrups.se/upload/ProductDB/%C3%96l/Paulaner_50eg_hwk_detalj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;50cl Paulaner&lt;/a&gt; Weissbier Kristall (and similar bottles from same brewery). Soak in water and just remove some &quot;glue lines&quot; with a dish brush. Very easy, actually came off while cooling in the ocean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spendrups.se/upload/ProductDB/%C3%96l/heineken_detaljbild.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;33cl Heineken&lt;/a&gt; with transparent plastic label (might be Sweden only). The label and glue are a nightmare to remove. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Simon" LastEditorDisplayName="Simon" LastEditDate="2010-03-08T12:02:57.360" LastActivityDate="2010-03-08T12:02:57.360" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-08T11:00:44.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1741" CreationDate="2010-03-08T15:02:35.890" Score="6" ViewCount="1595" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're both perchlorate-based cleaners.  I was thinking of buying some OxyClean when I ran out of One-Step and my LHBS only carried PBW and StarSan, but One-Step has worked so well for me that I don't want to risk it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are One Step and OxyClean interchangeable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Please spawn a new question to debate the merits of perchlorate as a sanitizer and cleanser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-03-08T16:06:42.757" LastActivityDate="2012-12-22T00:17:16.713" Title="Are One-Step and OxyClean the same thing?" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1728" CreationDate="2010-03-08T15:05:50.563" Score="8" Body="&lt;h1&gt;In short: Yes, no problem, go for it, relax, don't worry.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like many all-grain brewers, I used a cooler for a mash tun making it difficult to raise the temperature to mash out.  &lt;em&gt;I still made good beers.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So why would you want to do a mash out?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This step achieves two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it halts enzyme activity.  If you are really, really good at mashing you know exactly when you have the perfect mix of fermentables &amp;amp; unfermentables in your sweet wort and any more exposure to enzymes would change the beer's profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the heat makes the sweet wort and grainbed less viscous.  This makes it easier to lauter &amp;amp; sparge because the liquid flows more freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are brewing a beer with a large percentage of wheat or other gummy stuff a mashout may help. In most cases you can skip right to sparge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-08T15:05:50.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1728" CreationDate="2010-03-08T15:07:26.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mashout is useful at the homebrew level if your wort is going to be sitting in the kettle for a long time prior to boiling and you want to lock in the mash profile.  The other thing Mashout can help with is boosting poor efficiency a little bit as the warmer temp improves the viscosity of the wort a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from those two areas, I don't routinely mashout either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-08T15:07:26.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1730" CreationDate="2010-03-08T15:12:12.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say don't add it to secondary at all.&#xA;Add it a little at a time at bottling, mixing and adding to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Track the amount you use and if you make the beer in the future, you can just add that entire amount again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I have had good luck pitching a 12oz-16oz of bourbon into 5 gallons and getting decent flavor.  Depends really on the flavor profile of the base beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-08T15:12:12.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2010-03-08T15:44:49.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guinness draft labels are easiest to use. They are made of heat-shrink plastic that doesn't use glue. Good luck getting the widget out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rodneypiper.tv/images/beer_photo_draught_bottle.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Guinness bottle http://www.rodneypiper.tv/images/beer_photo_draught_bottle.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-08T15:44:49.103" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-08T15:44:49.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1736" CreationDate="2010-03-08T16:02:27.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not use OxyClean as a sanitizer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The people who make OxyClean are not required to tell you what is in OxyClean, beyond the sodium percarbonate.  There are likely UV brighteners and possibly other chemicals.  Because its not &quot;food-safe&quot; they don't have to put out a complete ingredient list.  I don't recommend you use it for a sanitizer because of that fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use One-Step and have for years, mostly because I brew in the kitchen and most of the other cleaners could have a detrimental effect on the formica counter tops.  But One-Step, on a per-gallon basis is one of the most expensive sanitizers.  If you don't have those limitations, then Idophor or Starsan is much cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-03-08T16:02:27.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1728" CreationDate="2010-03-08T20:03:49.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't mash-out either but I do raise my sparge water to 180f in the kettle which translates to 170f water on top of the grain. I think this helps with my efficiencies (80-85%) by thinning the sugars in the grain.&#xA;mark&#xA;www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com&#xA;www.thebackyardbrewer.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="mark taylor" LastActivityDate="2010-03-08T20:03:49.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1692" CreationDate="2010-03-08T22:33:44.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like I will be buying the Chillzilla after all for several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a utility sink, so the backflush assembly necessary for cleaning a plate chiller is not available. As it is, I'll be running a garden hose from outside for my cooling water.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The outside copper of the Chillzilla actually does serve a purpose. I intend to run the whole thing submerged in ice water to increase efficiency.  This takes the place of an in-line pre-chiller during the summer months.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The copper-in-hose chillers are bulky and ugly. (I have limited storage, too.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy(er) cleaning than a plate chiller, as easily stored as a plate chiller, no need for a pre-chiller. It's not fully worth the premium, but it's close enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the Therminator after all. It is just... just... awesome.  Get one. Srsly. This thing knocks a half-hour off my brew night.  And it's the half hour at the end, when you just wanna get cleaned up, pitch the yeast, and go to bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-04-16T16:20:27.357" LastActivityDate="2010-04-16T16:20:27.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1751" CreationDate="2010-03-09T16:47:29.413" Score="25" ViewCount="3228" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reusing yeast at home is something I'm incredibly interested in, but haven't found the time to learn enough about it just yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the basic steps for harvesting, cultivating, or whatever other term you want to use, in order to reuse yeast from previous batches of homebrew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What equipment is required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What equipment is helpful, but not necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some of the most important things to watch out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other advice can you give on the topic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some other resources that might help the homebrew yeast cultivator? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More questions, from JackSmith:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you do anything differently when you know you're going to harvest your yeast? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you filter out hop sediment when you usually don't? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you only harvest yeast from neutral-flavored light beers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:06:20.910" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T06:27:14.653" Title="Reusing yeast at home" Tags="|yeast|techniques|reusing-yeast|yeast-cultures|cultivation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1749" CreationDate="2010-03-09T16:48:41.890" Score="12" ViewCount="8925" Body="&lt;p&gt;36 hours ago I brewed a BIG red ale and pitched some kick-ass &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp001.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WLP001&lt;/a&gt;. The picture on the left is what I had late last night (24 hr in). Made me a little nervous. And this morning the krausen had nearly reached the stopper.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the pre-work morning rush I rigged up this blow-off tube with a 1/4&quot; tubing, the universal stopper, my 6 gal brew kettle (the most readily available container), a HUGE binder clip (for weight), 2 qt. of water, and a little sanitizer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With a little coercion, the tube fit tightly into the stopper and CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; starting bubbling in the kettle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This got me thinking, what's the best way to do this? What size tubing? The elevation of the container vs. the elevation of the vessel? How much water? Sanitize it all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;ps- don't mind my cluttered closet&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;:]&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/ember/NcNPAg8xwL83EfnztD9Pwdt1eFtUp7hw_s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;krausen&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/ember/ePfbiTpOUyfcZJDeG97U5Y2LRQxsuR2P_s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.627" LastActivityDate="2010-03-09T17:58:38.877" Title="What is a proper blow-off tube setup?" Tags="|blow-off|blow-off-tube|krausen|fermentation|primary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1746" CreationDate="2010-03-09T17:53:37.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, the easiest way to re-use yeast is to brew a new batch on the same day that you're transferring another batch into kegs/bottles and then rack the new wort onto the leftover yeast cake.  Bam.  You've re-used yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At home, I have a handful of Erlenmeyer flasks and extra stoppers.  Basically what I do is make a mini-starter with the yeast that's dropped out of secondary fermentation.  Once that fermentation looks finished, I throw the whole flask in my beer fridge.  I've been able to keep yeasts for months.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The IPA that I have going at home right now is made from yeast that I pulled out of a barleywine that I made in August.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing you need to watch out for is bad sanitation (like any other aspect of brewing) and yeast stress, which may cause mutation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Causes of yeast stress:  Under-pitching yeast in high-gravity worts, high temperatures, low oxygenation (or at least, low source of fatty acids for cell wall growth) among others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast section in Fix's book The Principles of Brewing Science is an excellent source of information in what your yeast is actually doing and, thus, how to keep it healthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastActivityDate="2010-03-09T17:53:37.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1747" CreationDate="2010-03-09T17:58:38.877" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always used a tube that was biggest enough to fit snug into the neck of the carboy with no stopper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a standard mix of sanitizer and a pot/bucket with enough in it sitting at the right height so that the open end of the tube is submerged. That's pretty much all you need to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you have in the pics is just fine. You're goal is to have some place for the blowoff to go and to prevent anything from getting into the beer. Which, however, is highly unlikely anyway with the amount of CO2 blowing out of the tube but better to be safe than sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="327" LastActivityDate="2010-03-09T17:58:38.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1746" CreationDate="2010-03-09T20:46:50.387" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started cropping and repitching from my third batch ever. It is not hard at all, actually results in better beer, saves money, and is kinda fun. You get to use flasks and pour stuff back and forth and rub your chin and look wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/com-yeast-harvest.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; from the Wyeast people is geared toward commercial breweries, but I learned a lot about cropping from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I basically followed the steps &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-8.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but with some of my own tweaks. I also used the invaluable &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pitching rate calculator&lt;/a&gt; at MrMalty.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Short version&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Save some slurry from primary, thin it with water, let settle in fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Discard&lt;/strong&gt; the top third (water), &lt;strong&gt;save&lt;/strong&gt; the middle third (yeast) and &lt;strong&gt;discard&lt;/strong&gt; the bottom third (trub).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;saved&lt;/strong&gt; slurry is still a little thin for storage. Let it settle in the fridge overnight, then &lt;strong&gt;discard&lt;/strong&gt; all but a bit of water, then swirl the rest so that it's pourable into a clear bottle for long-term storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Long version&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well before you rack, boil some water and let it cool to room temperature.  You use boiled cooled water not just for sanitation, but to keep the yeast dormant by depriving them of oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how I did it at racking time (keep boiled cooled water on hand):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack from primary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gently swirl the tiny bit of beer left to break apart the yeast cake and mix it into a slurry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour a generous amount of slurry into a sanitized straight-sided jar or beaker (not an Erlenmeyer flask... see below). Don't worry if you get hop remnants in there.  We're going to leave them behind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the jar settle in the fridge while you clean your carboy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard the top layer of water, pour about half the remaining stuff into a sanitized Erlenmeyer flask (or just another jar).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top up the flask to about halfway with cold water, swirl, and let sit for a good half-hour in the fridge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour off almost all the liquid to get as thick a slurry as possible, swirl to mix the rest with the settled yeast, pour as much of the slurry as will fit into a sanitized clear glass 12 oz. bottle.  Cap this bottle. (You want the clear glass to assess yeast color. You don't have to worry about light-struck flavors here as all the hop compounds which get skunky have hopefully been washed away.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Label with yeast strain, generation, and the cropping date. Keep in the back of the fridge for up to a month.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use Erlenmeyer flasks for separating out the middle third of the slurry because they're very good at pouring a cross-section of the entire contents of the flask.  That's what we &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; want for the first step. We want to be able to control which &amp;quot;slice&amp;quot; of the yeast we get, so we avoid both water and trub. Beakers or straight-sided jars are better for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using it within four weeks, assuming you get about a half-bottle of settled-out yeast, pitching just the slurry should work for beers up to about 1.060, assuming a 5 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Shortest versions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour your next batch down on your &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1832/should-i-ferment-a-new-batch-directly-on-the-yeast-cake-generated-by-the-previous&quot;&gt;yeast cake&lt;/a&gt;. Others will tell you this is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4248/using-trub-directly-vs-yeast-rinsing/4253#4253&quot;&gt;bad idea&lt;/a&gt;, because it's overpitching and will affect the esters and head retention. I tested that hypothesis by intentionally overpitching, and found no evidence of muted esters or poor head retention. I make excellent beer regularly with this method, and it's easy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use dried yeast. Seriously, it's cheap, makes wonderful beer, and you can keep a bunch of varieties around for years. Why go through all these steps when you don't have to? A huge number of commercial brewers use dried yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T16:59:36.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1715" CreationDate="2010-03-09T23:45:30.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long and how solid were they frozen?  They couldn't have been all &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; frozen or the kegs would have deformed/ruptured.  Have you tried any of the beer?  It's probably just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but off flavors associated with autolysis come from the living yeast munching on the dead ones.  They'll all be dormant from the cold anyway, so not much chance of that happening.  A few dead yeast in the bottom of the keg shouldn't hurt anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastActivityDate="2010-03-09T23:45:30.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3663" CreationDate="2010-03-10T05:22:52.117" Score="12" ViewCount="3722" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rogue and Papazian have their own yeast strains (PacMan and Cry Havoc, respectively). Do you know how they got there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of trial and error? Pitching multiple strains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I pitch a bunch of different strains into a batch and stumble on something awesome.  I'm still bound by not repitching past the 6-8 generation, and the core culture only lasts 2-3 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I discover the next amazing strain through experimentation, what do I do then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T05:56:55.180" Title="How do new yeast strains happen?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-03-10T05:54:47.237" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my very limited understanding on yeast, I believe you create your own new strain. While you may only repitch the same yeast 6-8 generations, the initial starter can be grown through doubling techniques. I need to learn more about how this works, but I believe if you were to collect some yeast from, say, your 4th generation of repitching, and expand this, and pitch it into a new batch, and repitch a few times, and harvest, etc.... Then you'll have your own unique yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, I could be a bit off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-03-10T05:54:47.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1758" CreationDate="2010-03-10T05:58:35.160" Score="7" ViewCount="5858" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tonight's extract brewing had us waiting 30 minutes to get down to a reasonable temp. What did we lose in the process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T16:09:54.343" Title="What are the effects of slower cooling of wort?" Tags="|chilling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1755" CreationDate="2010-03-10T13:59:41.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cooling your wort quickly causes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter7-4.html&quot;&gt;cold break&lt;/a&gt; material to precipitate out of solution.  It can then be left behind in the brew pot or easily strained when transferring your cooled wort to your fermenter.  If you cool slowly, cold break does not occur and the proteins remain in solution.  The end result is cosmetic - your beer may suffer from chill haze.  That is, it will be crystal clear at room temperature, but the proteins will precipitate slightly when cooled to serving temperature, but not enough to fall to the bottom, causing your beer to appear cloudy when cooled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-03-10T13:59:41.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1760" CreationDate="2010-03-10T14:09:42.437" Score="5" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you prime with DME, there is a bit of break material formed when you boil the DME.  How to brew &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mentions this&lt;/a&gt;, but doesn't say what to do about it or if you should care.  Do you strain this material out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently primed with DME for the first time and did get a wee bit of break material, but I'm not sure a seive would have even caught it.  Is cheese cloth the answer?  Or do you just dump it into your bottling bucket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-03-10T15:58:38.567" Title="Do you strain break material from DME boiled for priming?" Tags="|priming-sugar|extract|bottling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1755" CreationDate="2010-03-10T14:39:05.093" Score="11" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Relax, don't worry&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, thirty minutes is not a &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; time.  It's not particularly quick, but you're probably fine.  Secondly, some pioneering Australian brewers developed a no-chill brewing method. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=%22no+chill%22+brewing&quot;&gt;Google it up&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cold Break&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proteins coagulate during the cooling process. Because the coagulated particles of protein are heavier than the proteins themselves, they fall out of solution in the kettle or fermenter.  Good cold break begets clearer beer.  There may be small flavor impacts but probably not noticeable in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;DMS&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/DMS&quot;&gt;Dimethyl sulfide (DMS)&lt;/a&gt; is an organic sulfur compound.  In most beers it is present above its flavor threshold. It has a characteristic taste and aroma of cooked corn or creamed corn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DMS precursors are found in malt and is formed by heating them above 160ºF.  In the boil DMS is created, but easily driven off by the roiling boil.  (This is one reason why you shouldn't boil with the cover on.)  At flameout production continues until the temperature drops below 160º.  The longer the wort is in this range, the more DMS you get in your fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the fermenter, the evolution of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; scrubs DMS.  Despite all its volatility small amounts (10-150 parts per &lt;em&gt;billion&lt;/em&gt;) are perceptible in beer.  It is better to reduce this off flavor and rapidly chilling your wort is an important step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-10T14:39:05.093" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1729" CreationDate="2010-03-10T15:02:47.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first cider was 6 gallons of fresh apple juice and champagne yeast. I loved it, but most people thought it was way too dry. Anyway, more for me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to make the second batch sweeter, so my wife could enjoy it too. So after the primary seemed over, I added some sugars. Which of course kickstarted fermentation again, so it just got stronger, and stayed dry. I tried again. Still stronger, still dry. Then I realized I was being an idiot. I threw it in a keg, chilled it way down to make the yeast as dormant as possible, THEN added some sugar, and tapped it. That stuff tasted really good, but was also well over 10% alcohol. Fine with me, but limited my wife to 1 or two glasses max, which kind of kills the point on a hot summer day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third batch I got just right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2010-03-10T15:02:47.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1757" CreationDate="2010-03-10T15:19:18.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;No&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just dump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit, thanks to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/61/tincoyote&quot;&gt;TinCoyote&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When asking these sort of questions I always think about the proportions (or dilution rate).  Pitching a few tens of ml into 19,000 ml won't even register on your tongue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-03-10T15:58:38.567" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1746" CreationDate="2010-03-10T15:50:58.693" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been listening to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio&quot;&gt;Basic Brewing Radio&lt;/a&gt;. Here are some episodes about reusing yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=basic-brewing-radio-2007&quot;&gt;November 1st, 2007&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Reusing yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=basic-brewing-radio-2008&quot;&gt;February 7th, 2008&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Advanced yeast handling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=basic-brewing-radio-2009&quot;&gt;February 26th, 2009&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Carboy top-cropping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=basic-brewing-radio-2009&quot;&gt;September 3rd, 2009&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Yeast Ranching&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=61&quot;&gt;October 27th, November 3rd, November 10th, 2005&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Interviews with Dave Logsdon of WYeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-10T15:50:58.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1746" CreationDate="2010-03-10T22:11:27.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use an open fermenter as I do, you may find this technique useful in salvaging yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://backyardbrewer.blogspot.com/2009/03/3-simple-homebrewing-tricks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://backyardbrewer.blogspot.com/2009/03/3-simple-homebrewing-tricks.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="mark taylor" LastEditorUserId="15277" LastEditDate="2018-09-19T21:41:49.060" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T21:41:49.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-03-10T23:38:50.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's mainly time (many many many generations) and environment.  You could theoretically isolate yeast from the fermenter that have different properties like flocculation, attenuation, flavor profile etc. and then continue to focus on the desired traits until they behave the way you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast reproduce asexually under normal fermentation so pitching 2 strains won't create a 3rd new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recall reading that Cry Havoc was cultured up from a Budweiser keg.  Maybe if you keep using the same yeast for 20 years one of the labs will put out a special edition for you :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastActivityDate="2010-03-10T23:38:50.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1772" CreationDate="2010-03-12T19:08:31.603" Score="6" ViewCount="1206" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the usual procedure for measuring gravity?  Is it typical to just take an original and final gravity measurement or should measurements be taken throughout?  I've heard people talk about taking readings throughout the process to dictate where the beer is at; do they just drop their hydrometer into their carboy and leave it there throughout the brew or do they risk contamination by taking samples out?  Also, do I need to record/account for exact temperature when I take readings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-03-12T20:15:58.427" LastActivityDate="2010-04-14T15:33:24.707" Title="Measuring Gravity" Tags="|specific-gravity|process|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1768" CreationDate="2010-03-12T21:01:10.290" Score="12" ViewCount="7992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to transfer a beer that has been fermenting for about 3 weeks directly into a Cornelius keg for secondary fermentation AND carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would like to add priming sugar and naturally carbonate in the keg, not force carbonate it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After a few weeks, I would then like to put the keg on pressure and serve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much priming sugar would I use for 5 gallons of beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should I prep the keg? Other than cleaning it, should it be filled with CO2 prior to racking?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any problems in general with this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:37:35.780" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:37:35.780" Title="Using a keg for secondary fermentation and natural carbonation?" Tags="|equipment|kegging|secondary|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1767" CreationDate="2010-03-12T21:22:07.897" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;How much priming?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewery.org/library/YPrimerMH.html&quot;&gt;A Primer on Priming&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-4.html&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt;.  Add sugar like you normally would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Prepwork&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow your normal keg prep work.  Clean and &lt;strong&gt;sanitize&lt;/strong&gt; the keg.  Inspect the gaskets and seals. Purging it is not necessary, but will not hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;General thoughts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do basically the same thing.  My beer ferments for a few weeks, then I transfer it to kegs and allow to condition for a few more weeks.  The only difference is I do not naturally carbonate in the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of purging the entire keg with CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; I rack and purge the headspace.  I have not had any problems with staling due to oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first few pulls you get off the keg will be full of sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-12T21:22:07.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-12T21:30:18.397" Score="7" ViewCount="3902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about making a wheat-beer with bananas and a little bit of chocolate malt. My question is can you mash bananas in the mash-tun to convert the sugars/starches and get more banana flavor into the brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the idea from my wife while I was looking at a dark wheat recipe. She was making chocolate covered frozen bananas for our girls and the wheat recipe had a little chocolate malt in it. I thought 'why not accentuate the banana flavor and aroma in the beer instead of trying to keep it down?'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if it is possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Hugh Nelson" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T00:14:16.487" Title="Can you mash bananas?" Tags="|process|mash|fruit|banana|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1769" CreationDate="2010-03-12T21:54:56.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about when you would want to include them in the process, but Wells makes a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wellsandyoungs.co.uk/wellsandyoungs/beers/ales/wells-banana-bread-beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Banana Bread Beer&lt;/a&gt;, so it can definitely be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_4820126_banana-weizen-banana-beer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; about a Hefeweizen mixed with banana nectar, like a banana version of the Austrian Radler, so you might be able to try incorporating it at the end of your brew somehow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-03-12T21:54:56.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1769" CreationDate="2010-03-12T22:01:52.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be done, as Seth pointed out when referencing Wells' offering.  I don't know if you'd want to mash them, though, or if you'd just add them to the secondary.  Bananas have a very strong flavor, especially ones that are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engrish.com/2003/05/all-yellow/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flecked with brown&lt;/a&gt;.  If you're going to try it, maybe you could also &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/542/using-nuts-for-beer-aroma&quot;&gt;infuse some nut flavor&lt;/a&gt; and make a proper &lt;a href=&quot;http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com/si_blogs/basketball/ncaa/uploaded_images/nana-721309.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bluth Banana Stand&lt;/a&gt; Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-03-12T22:01:52.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1766" CreationDate="2010-03-13T00:17:50.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't take readings throughout fermentation but some people do. There is an increased risk in collecting samples, but if your sanitation practices are good, the risk is low.  I don't recommend dropping the hydrometer in. It will hard to find among the krausen, will be very difficult to read accurately, and the reading will be slightly off due to co2 that is dissolved in the beer during fermentation. For an accurate reading you should know the temp within a few degrees. My procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitize a turkey baster &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill a Glass or mug with wort/beer using the baster. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour wort/beer between 2 glasses to remove dissolved co2 (I don't always do this but it will make readings slightly more accurate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour into hydrometer test jar. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take temperature reading. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take gravity reading &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take 2nd temp reading for an average temp. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Correct gravity reading for temperature. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sample beer, do not add back to Carboy/bucket &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2010-04-14T15:29:26.737" LastActivityDate="2010-04-14T15:29:26.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1658" CreationDate="2010-03-13T03:34:32.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that kiwi-fruit is used in beer. I'm pretty sure that Sam callagione from Dogfish has a kiwi Wit beer in Extreme Brewing. From the little I know about the properties of fruit I think it has a lot to do with the pH of the fruit. Papaya has a higher pH from memory and the better flavouring in beer (citrus, berry, etc) have a lower pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to experiment with small batches to see what works and what doesn't. A 1 gallon extract light ale with whatever you choose to put ihn it isn't going to cost a bomb or waste too much time, but will give you a good idea of what the resulting flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even do a full 5 gallon batch and maybe split it 10 ways in to half gallons each with a different fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Hugh Nelson" LastActivityDate="2010-03-13T03:34:32.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1774" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-14T12:01:50.643" Score="3" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it need to have anything special or any food-grade bucket would do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="445" LastEditDate="2010-03-14T15:49:30.737" LastActivityDate="2017-02-12T15:43:29.513" Title="What characteristics should a bucket have to be suitable for a mash tun?" Tags="|mash|mash-tun|bucket|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1561" CreationDate="2010-03-14T19:42:43.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got done with a vanilla porter and it is fantastic. After transferring to the secondary I anded half of a bean just split in half. If I added any more than that I think it would be over powering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Tynee" LastActivityDate="2010-03-14T19:42:43.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1774" CreationDate="2010-03-14T20:04:42.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any food grade bucket will do, but keep in mind that the plastic will asborb flavors.  So don't use a pickle bucket (etc.) unless you want pickle-beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-03-14T20:04:42.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-14T21:18:24.953" Score="3" ViewCount="683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like using nipper bottles for high-alcohol brews as well using a few in each batch I bottle so I can test carbonation levels &amp;amp; flavors as the batch bottle conditions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I've only had luck finding green and clear bottles.  Are there any online retailers that sell brown nipper bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T23:26:24.400" Title="Online retailers for brown nipper bottles (187 mL)?" Tags="|bottles|conditioning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1774" CreationDate="2010-03-15T12:56:43.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an extract brewer planning to start going all-grain sometime soon, I can't answer from experience.  But my plan is to start by buying a cooler to use as a mash tun.  You can use a bucket, but without any insulation you'll have a hard time maintaining the 150-158F required for a good mash.  I plan to build mine from one of those big job site drink coolers - they're made from food grade plastic and can help to maintain the temperature for an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-03-15T12:56:43.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1766" CreationDate="2010-03-15T14:11:29.463" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can take measurements throughout fermentation to find out how fermentation is going.  I would recommend a wine thief.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/fermtech-wine-thief.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/fermtech-wine-thief.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just sanitize it before you stick it in your fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally just check gravity readings when I'm racking from primary to secondary and from secondary to keg so that I can just siphon into my hydrometer tube - whatever you call those things.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you obsessively check, you risk contamination, and I'm not sure that the extra information is really telling me anything aside from, &quot;Yep.  Not done fermenting, yet.&quot; and you can usually tell that by eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suggest getting a hydrometer with a thermometer built into it so that you can just check gravity and temperature readings at the same time.  They're not the most accurate things, but they're close enough for the inexact science of calculating gravity.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you spin your hydrometer in the tube while you're measuring gravity, it'll shed any CO2 that may be lifting it for a few moments so that you can get a fairly accurate reading.  No need to totally de-gas the liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastActivityDate="2010-03-15T14:11:29.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-15T14:36:24.300" Score="11" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every once and a while I come across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gooseisland.com/pages/matilda/25.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beers&lt;/a&gt; that say they can be kept up to 5 years and become more developed over that time period, while &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harpoonbrewery.com/index.cfm?pid=143703&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;other beers&lt;/a&gt; that are of the same style don't indicate this at all.  I know that some styles are defined by how long they can be cellared, but for other styles how do you know?  So my main question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the main characteristics that differentiate normal cellaring period beers from beers with extended cellaring periods?&lt;/strong&gt;  Does it have to do with the amount of hops?  The amount of alcohol?  The type of yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; In retrospect, this looks like it would be a good wiki question since it's more of an information gathering topic than a personal, concise question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is a compiled list of comments made below as well as answers found elsewhere:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please feel free to edit this list (it is a wiki).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;These are the characteristics that people have associated with good cellaring beers:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wild yeast beers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High alcohol content&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Proper storage throughout the lifetime of the beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High SRM/EBC -- Dark Color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Styles of beers that lend themselves to cellaring:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lambic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Barleywine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oud Bruin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belgian Ale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Imperial Stout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Characteristics that can develop throughout cellaring:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Floral hop character diminishes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hop bitterness diminishes, but at a much slower rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flavor complexity is developed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Malt character is developed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can develop sherry and port-like characteristics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Keep these characteristics in mind when selecting or designing a beer that you wish to cellar for an extended period of time.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewbasement.com/featured/what-beers-should-i-cellar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;resource&lt;/a&gt; I found about cellaring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2010-12-09T20:54:20.660" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T20:54:20.660" Title="[WIKI] Characteristics of a Good Cellaring Beer" Tags="|ingredients|beer-styles|cellaring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-19T12:11:53.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1782" CreationDate="2010-03-15T15:37:48.913" Score="5" ViewCount="3418" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh6.ggpht.com/_pnQEXd93GTw/S3nzY7OxdoI/AAAAAAAAArs/Oj-0MfkOiGg/IMG_3189.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;scortching&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kettles, mash tuns, infants, etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.643" LastActivityDate="2010-03-28T01:15:00.090" Title="How do you clean scorched wort off stainless steel?" Tags="|cleaning|equipment|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1781" CreationDate="2010-03-15T15:51:42.253" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's on stainless steel &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000V706OC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bar Keepers Friend&lt;/a&gt; will clean off just about anything.  I use this on my ss pots and pans and it works great (I try not to use it on mirror finished surfaces though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find it at Bed Bath &amp;amp; Beyond, Walmart, the grocery store, just about anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I also believe that Bar Keepers Friend is a glass cooktop cleaner, so it can def cut through some scorched on food/sauce/liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-03-18T13:03:46.100" LastActivityDate="2010-03-18T13:03:46.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1781" CreationDate="2010-03-15T17:00:35.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash) and that gets everything off that I've ever used it for including scorching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2010-03-15T17:00:35.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1583" CreationDate="2010-03-15T17:28:48.833" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made sourdough starter with organic whole-grain flour, as well as one with rye flour.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://sourdoughhome.com/startermyway.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; how I made it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix the flour with water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover and let it develop for 12 hours in dark, draft-free place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove half of it, replenish with fresh flour and water, then back to step 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the starter double's itself every 12 hours you start replenishing with white flour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After yeast is a week old and still going strong, it's safe to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like with the grapes you mentioned, this works because of the natural yeast from the fields it was grown in lives on the wheat or rye.  I would be willing to bet that similarly, yeast lives on the barley, however, since the barley used in brewing has been malted all of the yeast is killed off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you'd have to get the yeast using unmalted barley or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arrowheadmills.com/product/barley-flour&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;organic barley flour&lt;/a&gt;, and along with it you'd probably pick up some &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactobacillus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lactobacillus&lt;/a&gt; as you do in sourdough.  This would give you that distinct sour flavor by producing lactic acid during your fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as you mentioned, the vigorous boiling will kill any yeast off, so you must figure out how to: introduce barley and its yeast to a prime growing environment, crowd out any other bacteria that might be living on the barley, stabilize the yeast strain, and pitch it after your wort has cooled to room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just get a yeast culture the same way you do with bread (of course being more carefull and sanitary):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix some &lt;strong&gt;finely-ground barley/organic barley flour&lt;/strong&gt; (unmalted would render the best results I imagine) with water (maybe some liquid malt extract as well to feed the yeast?).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put in a sanitized container with an airlock or in an air-tight container and let it develop for 12 hours in dark, draft-free place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove half of it, replenish with fresh &lt;strong&gt;finely-ground barley/organic barley flour&lt;/strong&gt; and water (lme?), then back to step 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the starter is going strong (lots of CO2 and activity) you start replenishing with &lt;strong&gt;malt extract only&lt;/strong&gt; so you don't introduce any more foreign organisms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After yeast is a week old and still going strong (and doesn't smell funky), it's safe to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You pose a very interesting question and I am very tempted to try this myself.  It works with bread, why not beer?  I think the key is going to be to get the yeast culture up and going long enough to crowd out any other organisms that might be living in there.  If you find a good strain, just keep it alive and &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/967/reusing-yeast-at-home&quot;&gt;reuse it&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know if you try something out and how it went!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-03-18T14:30:57.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1777" CreationDate="2010-03-16T02:38:36.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry, but in a word, no.  187 ml bottles are made for the wine industry and they only come in clear or green.  If they are available they are beyond my Google-fu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is a non-traditional amber &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.herbco.com/c-8-glassware.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;8oz or 4oz alternative from herbal medicine manufacturers&lt;/a&gt; that go for about a $1.00 to $1.35 per.  They should do the job for you, even if they are a little odd.  I don't know anything else about these bottles, I have never used them myself.  My only concern would be their thickness in respect to withstanding carbonation pressures.  It probably wouldn't be a problem and they are cheap enough to order a few and give them a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would just short-fill a couple of regular bottles and CO2 purge them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-03-16T02:38:36.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1781" CreationDate="2010-03-16T16:15:23.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try vinegar and baking soda. It works for pots and pans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastActivityDate="2010-03-16T16:15:23.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1780" CreationDate="2010-03-16T16:28:17.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ratebeer.com/Story.asp?StoryID=466&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a good article on aging beer from Ratebeer.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few tidbits from the article, though you really must read it in its entirety:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Things that make a good Aging candidate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The higher the alcohol content of a&#xA;beer, the better it will age.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The higher the acid level of the beer, the better it will age.  The most wanted acid in beer is lactic acid. It is the highlight of Lambic, Gueuze, Oud Bruin, Saison and more of those. But also of Berliner Weisse, and more contemporary American tries at new styles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Things that make a bad Aging candidate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beers with lots of aromatic hops (these aromatics will not last long)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High sugar levels; the more sugar a beer has, the more prone it is to attract all kind of unwanted beasties during aging&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low acid fruit beers (freshness of the fruit will be lost quite fast after the first few months)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastActivityDate="2010-03-16T16:28:17.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1781" CreationDate="2010-03-16T18:09:50.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's toxic as heck, but standard oven cleaner is your last stop.  My progression would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One-Step/PBW&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Barkeeper's Friend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oven Cleaner (which you can thankfully use outside if it's not on your oven)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-03-16T18:09:50.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1781" CreationDate="2010-03-17T11:34:42.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd try using the PBW as a scouring agent itself.  Soak the pot with warm PBW for twenty minutes.  Empty the kettle. Sprikle in some fresh PBW without adding additional water, and scrub with a green pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-17T11:34:42.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1781" CreationDate="2010-03-17T13:56:27.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think an angle grinder with an abrasive pad will do the trick. That method is somewhere between Barkeeper's Friend and oven cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-17T13:56:27.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1794" CreationDate="2010-03-17T18:20:57.383" Score="9" ViewCount="1721" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have so far only done bottom-fermented beers without transferring into a second vessel for secondary fermentation. If I wanted to do some dry hopping with this technique, when is the best time to put the hops? Towards the end of fermentation into the fermenter or into the bottles when it is bottling time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:25:54.730" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:25:54.730" Title="Dry hopping without secondary fermentation" Tags="|techniques|fermentation|bottling|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1792" CreationDate="2010-03-17T20:22:58.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest you do it a week or a few days before &lt;em&gt;bottling&lt;/em&gt;.  Hop aromas are volatile and the less time they are in an &quot;open&quot; environment the better.  If you throw the hops in without a bag allow a little extra time for them to settle as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-17T20:22:58.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1792" CreationDate="2010-03-18T13:02:12.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started dry hopping in primary as a rule.  I add my dry hops after the most vigorous part of fermentation is over, about 3-4 days.  Waiting a bit helps prevent more foaming I have found.  However I do add the hops before the ferment is done.  The reason for this is that when adding whole hops to the fermentor they are filled with a lot of air.  That air can lead to some oxidation/staling.  By adding the hops while there is still signs of fermentation the yeast tend to consume the oxygen limiting the oxidation of the beer some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes the ferment activity does &quot;scrub&quot; some of the volatile aromatics out of the beer, but who cares, you just add more hops to compensate.  Its a recipe issue not a process issue.&#xA;Increase your normal dry hop addition by 10-15% to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't take credit for this technique.  I heard about it on The Brewing Network from Mike McDole.  I had heard about it prior to the BN, but it has been best explained there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-18T13:02:12.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1800" CreationDate="2010-03-18T16:08:38.460" Score="5" ViewCount="895" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll have about 1/2 an ounce of leftover Cascade hop pellets when I finish my boil. I was thinking that I would save them and throw them in the secondary, but I don't have a bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I get much aroma out of just throwing the pellets in by themselves without a bag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="473" LastActivityDate="2010-03-18T23:30:19.667" Title="Dry Hopping without a bag" Tags="|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1796" CreationDate="2010-03-18T17:16:14.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Probably&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll give your beer a nice little aroma boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/717/pellet-hops-spilled-out-of-bag-in-secondary-advice&quot;&gt;Pellet Hops spilled out of bag in secondary. Advice?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-03-18T17:16:14.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1767" CreationDate="2010-03-18T19:43:45.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd only add that for priming sugar, you're supposed to use roughly half of what you'd use if you were bottling, otherwise you can overcarb (which can remedied once kegged, of course, but would be a pain in the neck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-03-18T19:43:45.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1777" CreationDate="2010-03-18T20:51:32.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could start drinking those new mini Rogue bottles (7 oz.) and re-use them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beernews.org/2009/12/rogue-ales-moving-xs-line-including-new-mcrogue-scotch-ale-to-7-oz-bottles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beernews.org/2009/12/rogue-ales-moving-xs-line-including-new-mcrogue-scotch-ale-to-7-oz-bottles/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At $3.75 per bottle (here in NH), it'd be expensive, but it's damn good beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-03-18T20:51:32.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1796" CreationDate="2010-03-18T23:30:19.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep.  I dry-hopped my last brew by just dropping the pellets into the carboy and it had a great aroma.  The pellets broke up and sunk and then I just racked without disturbing the sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-03-18T23:30:19.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1803" CreationDate="2010-03-19T18:01:32.483" Score="5" ViewCount="1585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided last night that fermentation temperature control was not a priority for me (minimizing brew time and moving to kegs are ahead of it).  I have a basement that stays pretty cool, and four floors of A/C will be seeping down there, so I don't expect it to get too warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some yeasts go as high as 75 for the recommended range, but get estery and nasty at that range.  Are there any yeasts that brew better beer in the mid-70's range? Are there any styles that lend themselves to warmer ambient temperatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: I had great results with Wyeast 3711, French Saison.  See comment below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-07-30T14:13:44.390" LastActivityDate="2010-07-30T14:13:44.390" Title="What yeasts are good for summer brewing?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1801" CreationDate="2010-03-19T22:49:20.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saison yeasts can do well up into the high 70s and some say this temperature is needed to coax the yeast into finishing the job.  Other belgian strains also do well in the low to mid 70s, but will definitely throw some estery/phenolic belgian-esque flavors.  If you want to have a &quot;clean&quot; yeast profile, I don't know of any that will provide it at high temps.  You could try experimenting with Super High Gravity yeast, or wine and champagne yeast.  I'm not sure what those will do in terms of flavor, but I would expect attenuation to be higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-03-19T22:49:20.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1801" CreationDate="2010-03-20T11:38:09.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was kind of curious about this, so I looked up which yeasts have over 75° F in their recommended range:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=54&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;63-76° F (17-24° C) Forbidden Fruit&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=199&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;65-77° F (18-30° C) French Saison&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=65&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;64-78° F (18-25° C) Trappist High Gravity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=127&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;68-78° F (20-24° C) Belgian Abbey &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=128&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;64-80° F (18-27° C) Belgian Strong Ale &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=194&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;65-85° F (18-30° C) Roeselare Ale Blend&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=136&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;65-85° F (18-29° C) Belgian Ardennes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=60&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;70-95° F (21-35° C) Belgian Saison&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you can always make one of those &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=son+of+fermentation+chiller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fermentation chillers&lt;/a&gt; with ice packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Simon" LastActivityDate="2010-03-20T11:38:09.970" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-20T11:38:29.750" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-20T17:33:57.487" Score="3" ViewCount="1027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I followed the instructions in Palmer's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;How To Brew&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (along with some modifications from a Jamil interview that I heard), for getting a yeast starter going. It is now sitting on my stir-plate, with a nice little krausen stitting on top - going on about 14hrs since pitching right now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to step up the starter to get a larger volume of yeast, but I'm not entirely clear on the proper process for this. Do I allow the krausen to fall back in, before chilling it and then adding more prepared wort? Or do I just toss it in the fridge at any point, to get the yeast to settle out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="platypotamus" LastEditorUserId="445" LastEditDate="2010-03-20T20:36:09.397" LastActivityDate="2010-04-03T21:23:46.167" Title="stepping up a yeast starter" Tags="|yeast|starter|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1804" CreationDate="2010-03-20T20:35:36.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think either way will work. What you want is the yeast to settle, and both methods you describe will do that. If you use the second one, the only difference is that maybe the yeast will have more nutrients when it &quot;wakes up&quot;. Just make sure you don't make too much yeast because that is equally bad as less than required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-03-20T20:35:36.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1801" CreationDate="2010-03-21T17:37:37.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your basement is normally about 70F, a simple swap cooler will keep most any traditional ale in the right range.  I have fermented plenty of Pale ales and the like in a 95F garage using just a swamp cooler and occasionally swapping out ice packs if it gets too warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real key is you need to monitor the temp of the fermenting beer closely, not so much the ambient temp.  Fermenting beer will be 5-8degrees higher than ambient at its peak of activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-21T17:37:37.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1808" CreationDate="2010-03-22T14:46:26.753" Score="19" ViewCount="12687" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the effects of over-pitching?  Where is the line for, say, a 1.050 beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a question for to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1033/why-is-it-bad-to-pitch-too-little-yeast&quot;&gt;under-pitching&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-03-23T14:30:04.453" Title="Why is it bad to pitch too much yeast?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|ingredients|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1807" CreationDate="2010-03-22T15:04:39.603" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast produce different flavors during the various stages of their lifecycle.  Overpitching shortens or skips their &quot;growth&quot; phase (maybe a better name is &quot;division&quot; or &quot;budding&quot;).  The bulk of a beer's esters are produced during this initial stage, so missing out on a fully-developed life cycle robs an ale of this often desirable quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A by-product of yeast metabolism is acetaldehyde, characterized by green apple flavor.  During a full fermentation yeast will scrub much of this undesirable compound out of the beer.  Overpitching could result in a noticeable amount of acetaldehyde left over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid the problem, use Jamil's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot;&gt;pitching rate calculator&lt;/a&gt; and stay within 15-20% of the recommended rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-22T15:04:39.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-22T19:46:45.893" Score="8" ViewCount="382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a newbie! An art historian by day...soon to be home brewer by night and weekends. QUESTION:  Do you know of a brewer (home brewer or well known craft brewer) who is knowledgeable about ancient brewing techniques? I'm looking specifically for someone who's studied Egyptian brewing techniques and tools. Any leads would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Lindsey" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-03-22T20:16:00.417" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T12:55:27.890" Title="Ancient Brewing Techniques" Tags="|process|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1809" CreationDate="2010-03-22T20:15:46.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sam Calagione at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dogfish.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dogfish Head Brewery&lt;/a&gt;.  He has made some beer with the old methods and knows people who have done studies on ancient brewing techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-03-22T20:15:46.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1809" CreationDate="2010-03-22T20:32:05.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dr. Ernie Schyuler, Curator Emeritus of Botany, The Academy of Natural Sciences - does a lecture circuit in Philadelphia entitled: &quot;The Origin and Evolution of Beer&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-03-22T20:32:05.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1821" CreationDate="2010-03-23T13:01:59.770" Score="11" ViewCount="21046" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the effects of underpitching your beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have an answer for &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1028/why-is-it-bad-to-pitch-too-much-yeast&quot;&gt;over pitching&lt;/a&gt;, I think we need the complete set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2019-02-13T06:19:58.700" Title="Why is it bad to pitch too little yeast?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|ingredients|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1860" CreationDate="2010-03-23T13:23:54.687" Score="5" ViewCount="1241" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the quest for super clear beer (and increase shelf stability) some brewers like to filter their beer.&#xA;What impact does it have on flavor, aroma and color?&#xA;Which aspects of flavor (hops only, malt and hops, only malt flavors)?&#xA;Can any striping of these things be compensated for in the recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-03-30T16:08:04.070" LastActivityDate="2010-04-01T20:50:39.207" Title="Does filtering beer strip flavor, aroma and/or color?" Tags="|clarity|filtering|techniques|flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1820" CreationDate="2010-03-23T15:48:28.377" Score="6" ViewCount="2774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I'd ask this after reading Brewchez's &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1034/does-filtering-beer-strip-flavor-aroma-and-or-color&quot;&gt;effects of filtering&lt;/a&gt; question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally don't filter at home, for the most part. I generally make dark beer, and people who drink my beer understand that it's homebrew, and won't be filtered. A little yeast never hurt anyone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do user irish moss, whirlpool my wort at flameout, transfer at least twice, and try to leave sediment at the bottom of the bucket/carboy/whatever. What further steps could one do at home to clarify one's beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-04-17T12:00:14.150" Title="How do you filter at home?" Tags="|filtering|clarity|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1817" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1840" CreationDate="2010-03-23T21:41:25.273" Score="3" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hop few plants that will be a year old next month. How can I tell if it's ok to clip a rhizome to give to my buddy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Joe" LastActivityDate="2010-03-28T12:59:14.433" Title="Clipping a rhizome" Tags="|hops|rhizome|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1812" CreationDate="2010-03-24T04:41:24.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;More ester formation. This could be good in a Belgian beer where you want to accentuate the yeast-derived flavors, or bad such as in the case of lagers. Generally it's best to pitch the right amount of yeast and control ester production with fermentation temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-03-24T04:41:24.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1815" CreationDate="2010-03-24T04:45:12.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also use a flocculant in secondary, such as gelatin, isinglass, chitosan, or polyclar (a commercial name for the former). An easier method would be to cold crash the carboy after fermentation - drop the temp of the carboy to about 32 for a few days to drop out yeast and haze.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-03-24T04:45:12.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1815" CreationDate="2010-03-24T13:27:44.250" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Free (or nearly free)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cold Conditioning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before packaging drop the temperature to the thirties or forties Fahrenheit.  Hold the beer here for a few days.  Haze-causing proteins coagulate more easily at this temperature.  I do this for almost all my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wait Longer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the most difficult filtering methods.  All that beer, nearly ready to drink....  I usually condition my beers an extra two weeks.  I once left some malt liquor in a bucket for six months. It was really clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;That is usually sufficient&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use those methods exclusively and my beer comes out clear, but not brilliant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pre-fermentation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this part is not directly related to the question of filtering the following techniques help clarify your beer. In my percieved order of effectiveness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Irish moss (acts on haze proteins)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Post-boil whirlpool (removes trub)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A good rolling boil (haze proteins)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good vorlauf (haze proteins)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A kettle screen (trub)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I employee all of these except whirlpool because the screen does the job.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;More (not so free) things&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Buy a filter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More Beer &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/5759//Beer_and_Wine_Plate_Filter_Kit_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sells an economical filter&lt;/a&gt;.  I have not had experience with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Clarifiers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isinglass, gelatin and other commercial products will clear up your beer.  After fermentation has subsided, add one of these things to your vessel. The stuff drifts down, picking up haze proteins.  I used isinglass once without much success, but that was early on when I may not have known what I was doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-03-25T20:40:40.507" LastActivityDate="2010-03-25T20:40:40.507" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1812" CreationDate="2010-03-24T14:19:20.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast produce different flavors during the various stages of their lifecycle.  Underpitching lengthens their &quot;growth&quot; phase (maybe a better name is &quot;division&quot; or &quot;budding&quot;).  The bulk of a beer's esters are produced during this initial stage, so extending this part of the lifecycle increases this sometimes undesirable quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast need oxygen to bud.  A homebrewer can usually dissolve enough oxygen into wort to facilitate four buddings. Once out of oxygen yeast begin consuming sugars.  In this phase the yeast stores energy to sustain it during hibernation.  Yeast will begin consuming the simple sugars moving to the more complex molecules as the easy to digest food diminishes.  Once it is full of stored energy the cell shuts down and flocculates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Underpitching can introduce an insufficient amount of yeast to entirely consume the entirety of the beer's fermentables.  Your fermentation may not finish, or there could be enough food for an infection to take hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use Jamil's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pitching rate calculator&lt;/a&gt; to avoid the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;References&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interview with Dave Logsdon (of WYeast) on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=basic-brewing-radio-2007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;April 5, 2007&lt;/a&gt; BBR &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-24T14:19:20.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1825" CreationDate="2010-03-24T14:45:43.497" Score="14" ViewCount="25010" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back when I started homebrewing, I used a Pur filter.  I've since moved and my kitchen sink won't accept any sort of filter.  I've brewed a few batches with just Fairfax County, VA tap water, and not noticed any real difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what the consensus is:&#xA;Do you use tap water?&#xA;Filter with a faucet-mounted filter?&#xA;Filter with a pitcher type filter?&#xA;Pre-boil water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sub-question:&#xA;Take the water as you get it (whether filtered or tap), or add minerals and whatnot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T08:36:20.007" Title="Do you filter water, or just use tap water?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-24T14:45:43.497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1822" CreationDate="2010-03-24T14:59:19.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always just used my tap water, but I know a guy who takes his carboy to Kroger and just sticks it in the water cooler refilling station, and he says it's pretty cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-03-24T14:59:19.413" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-24T14:59:19.413" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1822" CreationDate="2010-03-24T15:56:36.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy a sink filter for under a $100.  In the long run it turns out to be cheaper than Brita filters and faucet-mounted filters.  So easy to install. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Purify365" LastActivityDate="2010-03-24T15:56:36.600" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-24T15:56:36.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1822" CreationDate="2010-03-24T16:02:52.170" Score="13" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Most tap water (in America) is good for brewing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I recommend removing (filtering) or adding things to your water &lt;em&gt;only if you have a problem with it&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; (Or want to create a beer with a historic profile, like Burton on Trent, Pilsen, or Dublin.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your water influences a few things in the brewing process, namely the mash and the overall product.  When evaluating which water to use, ask yourself some questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does it taste?  Do I notice anything off about may water?  (EG: chloramines, sodium)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If my tap water tastes funny, does the flavor carry over to the resultant beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I getting good efficiency and conversion in my mash?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answers were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Icky. Tastes like salt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hard to tell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No, my efficiency is crap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out the water in my area is crap for brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Water-influenced &lt;em&gt;flavor&lt;/em&gt; problems&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try purchasing spring water or filtering your water.  If you mash or mini-mash do not use distilled or reverse-osmosis water.  I &lt;a href=&quot;http://midnighthourbrewery.blogspot.com/2008/04/cheap-simple-water-filtering.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;built this cheap filter&lt;/a&gt; that should be good for about 770 ten-gallon batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pnQEXd93GTw/R_LE7_2fr2I/AAAAAAAAAHY/EJfDkn9zOm0/s400/filter_parts.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Simple water filter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mash&lt;/em&gt; problems&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poor efficiency could be caused by water chemistry.  The mash needs to reach a low pH for optimal enzyme activity.  Minerals in the water may prevent it from reaching 5.0-5.6 pH and filtering generally does not help with this.  Obtain your local water report. It should be available on your water company's web site, or search &quot;water report&quot; and the name of your town/city and state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some qualities, like too much of a problematic mineral, can be solved by diluting with RO water.  In rare occasions, like mine, you have to build your water from scratch.  This is a good motivator to learn the necessary water chemistry related to brewing.  It's beyond the scope of this question, so I won't go into it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.660" LastActivityDate="2010-03-24T17:22:54.970" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-24T16:02:52.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1829" CreationDate="2010-03-24T17:39:39.540" Score="6" ViewCount="7392" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a shill question for Mark Taylor.  I stumbled on his &lt;a href=&quot;http://backyardbrewer.blogspot.com/2009/03/3-simple-homebrewing-tricks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;great tip about keeping a spray bottle on hand to prevent boil-overs&lt;/a&gt; while looking for advice on yeast re-use.  The spray bottle worked amazingly well.  Ample room in the boil pot is pretty obvious. What other strategies are there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-04-07T19:25:09.650" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T00:32:59.710" Title="How do you prevent boil-overs?" Tags="|boilover|techniques|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2010-03-24T18:39:16.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep a very close eye on the foam level during the first 10 minutes of the boil and am very ready to kill the heat if need be.  Recently I've been boiling with my pot about 2&quot; from the rim at the start of the boil and haven't boiled over... yet.  Brewing on a gas range (as opposed to electric) really provides for a lot of control over the heat input.  With gas, when you kill the heat, it's killed, unlike an electric coil stove where you kill the heat and it starts to cool off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When adding hops, I drop in one or two to test the water - er, wort - before going all-in.  Hops provide a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nucleation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;nucleation sites&lt;/a&gt;, so adding them quickly could cause there to be a ton of foam when there was no foam seconds earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-03-24T18:39:16.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2010-03-24T19:48:21.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to the spray bottle...I keep a glass of cool water nearby. If the foam starts rising I dump a little in. Settles things down nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastActivityDate="2010-03-24T19:48:21.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2010-03-25T03:24:54.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used FermCap in the last couple of batches.  Seems to work great for preventing that initial boilover.  It still gets foamy, but the foam dissipates much more quickly.  Excellent in starters on the stove top as well.  No noticeable effect in the finished beer.  No problems with head retention, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastActivityDate="2010-03-25T03:24:54.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1845" CreationDate="2010-03-25T11:28:04.177" Score="7" ViewCount="3693" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is cold steeping specialty grains all about?&#xA;How do I do it?  What does 'cold' really mean?  How long does it take?&#xA;Advantages and disadvantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T15:56:10.613" Title="What is cold steeping?" Tags="|techniques|steeping|flavor|wort|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1812" CreationDate="2010-03-25T15:22:40.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found out that I've been drastically underpitching my first few batches. I'm fairly ready to blame my under-attenuated beers on this.  Here's why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I started with a dry yeast pack&#xA;(Danstar Nottingham Ale) back when I&#xA;was just a kid and didn't know&#xA;anything... read: December. I pitched&#xA;direct into the wort and got 70%&#xA;apparent attenuation.  That batch had&#xA;one problem though: the &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1/why-does-my-beer-smell-like-bananas&quot;&gt;dreaded&#xA;banana flavor&lt;/a&gt;, which didn't&#xA;actually emerge until after bottle&#xA;conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That led me to believe that it was&#xA;the yeast that&#xA;was the culprit for the banana&#xA;flavor.  I switched to Wyeast smack&#xA;packs, all purchased from the LHBS,&#xA;and believed the printing on the pack&#xA;that it was good for pitching one&#xA;five-gallon batch up to 1.050 OG. I think my pitch rates went down significantly because of this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This led me to a series of&#xA;under-attenuated beers.  Strangely,&#xA;I've had one beer that went over the&#xA;attenuation range for its yeast (a&#xA;maibock fermented with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/newstrains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cry&#xA;Havoc&lt;/a&gt;). The fact that this came&#xA;from a different supplier (White&#xA;Labs) and was maybe fresher, made me&#xA;think that under-pitching was a&#xA;problem. Accordingly, I've edited &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/967/reusing-yeast-at-home/972#972&quot;&gt;my&#xA;answer to the yeast re-use&#xA;question&lt;/a&gt; to recommend more slurry and shorter storage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For my next seven batches, I'm moving to a series-based approach, probably using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp060.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;White Labs American Ale Blend&lt;/a&gt; to get a solid yeast cake on a cream ale, then re-using most of that slurry in three generations of two batches each, with the last two batch generation being two high-gravity beers pitched directly onto the yeast cake of the previous batch. (Is &quot;pitched&quot; the right word here? Spawning new question.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-03-25T15:22:40.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1835" CreationDate="2010-03-25T15:56:18.683" Score="18" ViewCount="5516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to re-use the yeast cake from a low-gravity batch to ferment a high-gravity batch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I just put the wort directly on it?  Does it then need to be agitated?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it worth the risk of contamination to take the whole yeast cake out, wash it, strain it, and actually re-pitch it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a term for this complete re-use of a yeast cake?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pouring down on the yeast cake of the previous batch is something I do regularly and with great effect. I don't remove anything from the carboy and I only step up in gravity. This might be helped by the fact that I only use leaf hops and they do a great job latching onto break material. I also use a boil screen, so there's very little trub anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can put the wort directly in. No, it doesn't need to be agitated, but a bit of shaking for aeration doesn't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't speak to risk of contamination with removing and repitching slurry, but I can say that the risk of contamination with pouring down is less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FURTHER UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still do this regularly with good results. I wanted to do some testing on how much ester production is inhibited by this degree of overpitching, so I tried making a light saison, with Wyeast French Saison (3711). (It's amazing yeast, by the way.) It was effectively Northern Brewer's Petite Saison d'Ete recipe, but at a &lt;code&gt;1.036&lt;/code&gt; gravity. I made that batch, kegged it, then poured down a 1.080 &lt;em&gt;biere de garde&lt;/em&gt; onto the cake. Fermentation was vigorous and healthy. The beer is missing nothing in the ester/character department. This beer had as much character and interest as anything I've made, even with being massively overpitched by homebrew standards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short: you can make very good beer like this, especially big beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2011-09-15T16:51:10.420" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T11:00:07.013" Title="Should I ferment a new batch directly on the yeast cake generated by the previous batch?" Tags="|beer|yeast|fermentation|techniques|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1832" CreationDate="2010-03-25T16:36:36.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine does this all the time. I've only done it once because I usually don't brew similar beers that close together. But now that my brew-partner and I are trying to perfect a single recipe, we're considering reusing brewing a new batch on bottling day, so we can re-use the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just chill your wort and pour it right over the yeast, that should provide enough agitation. Stir if you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2010-03-25T16:36:36.410" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1822" CreationDate="2010-03-25T16:47:33.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use filtered water (under-counter job with a separate faucet, about $80 from Home Depot), because my public water is disgustingly bleachy. They tell me it's within spec of chlorine PPM, but it's truly awful. Smells like a sanitizing solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yq49vDkFRvI/Rs-kESnYwSI/AAAAAAAAAB0/iw01DxIK1QU/s1600-h/KitchenAfter4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filtered Water Kit http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yq49vDkFRvI/Rs-kESnYwSI/AAAAAAAAAB0/iw01DxIK1QU/s1600-h/KitchenAfter4.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well water can have a whole different set of issues. Where I used to live, I had a ton of manganese and iron from a well, so I had to Brita that to make it potable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your water doesn't taste &quot;off&quot; you're probably fine, but like Dean said, there are definitely options for playing with water chemistry, especially if you're trying to replicate a regional style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2010-03-25T16:47:33.373" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-03-25T16:47:33.373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1832" CreationDate="2010-03-26T13:36:41.903" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to pitch on cake but then started repitching less of the yeast.  I'd say its better to grab a sanitize quart jar and pitch a small slug of the cake.&#xA;Aerate your wort as usual and pitch the slug of yeast.&#xA;This is the easiest way to reuse if you brew at the same time as racking something else over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll get some cell growth which is important for proper flavor characteristics of the yeat you are using.  Otherwise, you'll be missing out on some of the character the yeast can (and should) provide to the new beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you can look into using the pitching counter at Mr.Malty.  He talks about using slurry there too.  But if you want to keep it easy, I suggest the scooping out a half-quart and going to it.  Its only a minor increase in complexity over dumping cool wort on the entire cake and but I think the results are better than pitching on the whole cake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to mention in the whole cake you also have alot of the protein and break material from the previous batch and the new batch.  This can give you more headaches with lost wort/beer volume, sluggish ferments, more blow off, maybe even more time to clear and haze issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-26T13:36:41.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-26T14:15:37.140" Score="11" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all know that aeration is necessary for yeast growth.  &lt;strong&gt;Does it facilitate more than that?&lt;/strong&gt;  If you massively overpitch, on a previous yeast-cake for example, &lt;strong&gt;do you need the same amount of dissolved O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; as a &quot;normal&quot; pitch?&lt;/strong&gt;  Many pro brewers rack a new batch onto the previous batch's yeast cake. Are they on to something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-26T17:09:38.853" Title="Is aeration necessary if you overpitch?" Tags="|aeration|yeast|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1836" CreationDate="2010-03-26T14:55:19.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an experiment that aimed to determine the influence of pitching rate and oxygenation on ester production using a Weissbier yeast. The results were deemed &quot;inconclusive.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Experiment_Pitching_Rate_and_Oxygenation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Link to experiment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="376" LastActivityDate="2010-03-26T14:55:19.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1836" CreationDate="2010-03-26T15:28:03.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My simple perspective on this one is that the oxygenation of the wort provides a catalyst for aerobic respiration stage in the yeast during which they strengthen the cell wall and generally make them healthy, happy and reproductive. Clearly if you are over-pitched, you are less concerned about the reproductive characteristic but you still want the happy and healthy part before they switch into anaerobic mode for alcohol and CO2 production as a survival instinct. i.e. I would think that the yeast cake contains mostly exhausted dormant yeast cells that need to rejuventate before they are thrown back into anaerobic survival mode. Therefore, oxygenation would be just as critical to a fully attenuated fermentation as with a fresh starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-03-26T15:28:03.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1836" CreationDate="2010-03-26T17:09:38.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been wondering about this too.  I'm planning on pitching an Imperial Stout batch onto a yeast cake from a pale ale that I brewed a couple weeks ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my understanding of the subject I would agree with Jim Denmark that aeration/oxygenation is still important to help build up the yeast cell walls.  And Brad's experimental study link is a good one to check out for some thoughts on ester production.  High levels of oxygen in the wort and overpitching can both lead to decreased ester production--which would help the flavor in many cases but detract from it in others in which a high level of esters is desirable (such as wheat beers and many Belgian styles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, not too long ago I chatted with a few people who frequently pitch onto yeast cakes, and they weren't at all concerned about aeration beyond that which occurs when you pour the wort in.  Personally though, I'm going to oxygenate the wort in the kettle before I pitch onto the yeast cake just to be safe--I'm more concerned about having healthy yeast that can survive in higher alcohol levels than I am about ester production for this style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, I'd like to hear more about what others have to say on this since I'm going to be using this technique next week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-03-26T17:09:38.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2010-03-28T12:59:14.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never done this yet myself.  I have a book called &quot;The Homebrewer's Garden&quot;, it says to root prune or divide every three years, my oldest plants are starting their third year.  It says to divide before any growth shows and to cut the rhizome into several pieces, making sure each piece has both roots and shoots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Erik" LastActivityDate="2010-03-28T12:59:14.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-28T20:57:14.223" Score="2" ViewCount="1923" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is in my primary fermenter. If the airlock is not bubbling does that mean its not fermenting. I have two on the go one is bubbling and the other one is. What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Steve Coyne" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:26:44.027" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:26:44.027" Title="homemade wine problem" Tags="|fermentation|wine|airlock|problems|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1841" CreationDate="2010-03-28T22:47:43.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to be sure if it is fermenting is to check the gravity.  If the airlock is not bubbling it could just mean the seal on the bucket lid (or stopper) is not sealed air-tight.  It may also need more time before it kicks up.  The only time I fermented wine, it was a much less active-looking fermentation than beer.  I'd say wait a day or two, then take a gravity reading.  If it hasn't dropped, pitch more yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="493" LastActivityDate="2010-03-28T22:47:43.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2010-03-29T01:06:52.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now use fermcap, but I found a little 5 inch fan directed right at the surface works great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="yodalego" LastActivityDate="2010-03-29T01:06:52.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2010-03-29T01:31:54.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a spray bottle or hose nearby, you can stir the wort with a big spoon or paddle and that will break up the foam. Just be careful not to burn yourself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="461" LastActivityDate="2010-03-29T01:31:54.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2010-03-29T14:06:04.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold steeping is supposed to give you a smoother taste from dark and specialty grains that can impart ashy, acrid flavors when steeped in hot water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold steeping means actually steeping your grain at room temperature (not in ice water), and steeping it for 6-12 hours.  The process is very similar to cold steeping coffee (and it's also done for similar reasons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember that hot water is more soluble than cool water, so you might need to use more water to dissolve as much sugar out as possible.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jovialmonk.com.au/brewManual/Steeping_grains.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; recommends 5X the weight of your grain in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would summarize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smoother taste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to start part of your brew the night before&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would be hard to dissolve as much sugar as you get out of a hot steep&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to plan ahead and start the cold steep a while before you begin brewing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-03-29T15:16:14.883" LastActivityDate="2010-03-29T15:16:14.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-29T15:51:31.610" Score="4" ViewCount="1299" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh3.ggpht.com/_nP-skp6pZjo/S65jEWcv6iI/AAAAAAAAGEs/4Iq-81OFbWQ/s400/IMG_4823.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh4.ggpht.com/_nP-skp6pZjo/S65jFELNK1I/AAAAAAAAGEw/xAF9k6g3Xng/s400/IMG_4824.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just moved into a new apartment and I'm ready to start brewing. Except I have this unique faucet... it's the type that can switch between a solid stream and a spray and also is able to extend via a snake. Does anyone have any experience with this type of sink? I'll have to check to see if the entire thing comes off, but I'm worried I won't be able to chill my wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="523" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.700" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T14:36:37.973" Title="How do I chill wort with this faucet?" Tags="|wort|chiller|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1846" CreationDate="2010-03-29T16:30:14.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no adaptor for that type of faucet that I know of.  Maybe your bathroon sink has better potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was me I'd cut in an garden like fitting under the sink in the actual supply to the sink.  Of course it would have to be done on the quite side.  But no one is ever going to notice it.  By the time a landlord sees it he'd wonder if it was there all along anyway.&#xA;This also requires a little plumbing and soldering skills for the DIY work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-29T16:30:14.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1846" CreationDate="2010-03-29T17:14:42.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live on the third floor of an apartment building, and have a similar faucet set up. We have a garage on the first floor, and there's a hose spigot in there. I'm considering snaking a hose from the garage into my kitchen. Though I like brewchez's idea better...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-03-29T17:14:42.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1846" CreationDate="2010-03-29T17:32:08.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider chilling using an ice bath in the sink. I've found this to be pretty fast for small batches. If you need to use the faucet then what brewchez said is the way to go. Install a 'tee' fitting to the cold water inlet and reconnect the faucet to one side and a hose bib to the other.&#xA;mark&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;www.thebackyardbrewer.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="mark taylor" LastActivityDate="2010-03-29T17:32:08.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1846" CreationDate="2010-03-29T17:50:00.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same faucet in my old apt and ran a hose from the bathroom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastActivityDate="2010-03-29T17:50:00.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-30T18:06:15.623" Score="2" ViewCount="909" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I went down to my homebrew retailer, planning on buying a simple screen/valve assembly for a cooler. No go. He didn't have any of THOSE left, however he did have an assembly to use an 8-gallon pot as a lauter tun. So I stopped by the hardware store, purchased a step drill, modified the pot for a valve, screen filter, and thermometer (also a purchase @ the HB store), but not before I had walked out of the homebrew store with the ingredients for a Belgian Dubbel and an extra fermentor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 lb Briess American Dextrin (carapils malt)&#xA;7.5 lbs Muntons English Maris Otter Malt&#xA;0.1 lbs Weyermann German Dehusked CaraFa II&#xA;0.5 lbs Dingemans Belgian Aromatic Malt&#xA;1 lb Dingemans Beglian Special B&#xA;1 lb candi sugar&#xA;1 lb honey (he had this AWESOME stuff called &quot;Meadowfoam&quot;, which is truly delicious, to the point where I may make some meade from it)&#xA;1oz Brewers Gold pellets (60 min)&#xA;1/2 oz Hallertau (20 min)&#xA;1/4 oz Hallertau (10 min)&#xA;Wyeast #1214 Belgian Abbey Yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came out with a 1.030 boil gravity. Adjusted for temperature, this was closer to 1.045.  After adding the candi sugar and honey along with all the other elements in the boil, I was down to about 4 gallons due to some trub and some substantial boil-off.  @ the suggestion of my HB retailer's instructions, I added a gallon of water.   My OG was then 1.052.  Was diluting a bad idea?  How can I allow for boil-off?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="FrankieSez" LastActivityDate="2010-03-31T17:50:47.230" Title="First All Grain Batch / LOW Efficiency" Tags="|efficiency|boil|mashing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1856" CreationDate="2010-03-30T23:36:01.767" Score="2" ViewCount="2913" Body="&lt;p&gt;On last sunday I made an all-grain APA with an alternative equipment, trying to reduce space, so I used my fermentation bucket as a mash tun with a bazooka screen on the tap to filter the mash, but unfortunately after a few minutes before starting to get the mash out the tun the mash stopped to flow, then I tried everything to get the flow back but it didn't works. Then I get the mash out with a small pot and passing it through an stainless steel filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: I got a cloudy mash, but because I didn't want to desist of my beer I went to the next step and boiled the whole thing. After the whole process I finished with fermenting thing. I got 15 brix at refratometer after the boiling but I don't think it's true because of my &quot;unfiltered&quot; wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first 2 days the fermentation gone vigorous and today it starts to slow down, so I get a sample to prove and feel what it tastes. Well, I feel a sweet aroma, something like grapes, so it's my question, is this type of aroma expected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My APA recipe:&#xA;5kg of Pale Ale Malt (Belgium)&#xA;1kg of Viena Malt (Belgium)&#xA;30gr Cascade Hops at 60 min&#xA;20gr Fuggle Hops at 60 min&#xA;30gr Cascade Hops at 10 min&#xA;1pkg of Safale US-05 Yeast&#xA;24liters of boil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for my newbie question, I'm just trying to know what to expect in some situations. It's only my 4th beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastActivityDate="2010-03-31T18:52:07.400" Title="Is a sweet aroma normal?" Tags="|sweetness|aroma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1853" CreationDate="2010-03-31T12:06:18.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The beer sounds still 'green' to me.  The combo of cascade and only a few days into fermentation would most certainly still give you a sweet aroma.  Without checking the gravity you don't know really where fermenation is at in its road to completion.  But being only your 4th batch I'd sayits not done yet.  Bubbling is never a good indicator of fermentation activity; whether its active or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say let the thing ferment for another 10 days before you check it again.  And when you do check it, use a hydrometer.  Or be sure to get a clear sample for your refactometer by letting solids settle out first.  Lastly, post ferment your refractometer won't work right and you'll have to perform a correction for the alcohol in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-03-31T12:06:18.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1852" CreationDate="2010-03-31T17:50:47.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Get to  know your system&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting gravity is one measure that helps you produce consistent beers.  Suppose you made this beer again with the same ingredients, using the same process. All other things being equal, you should hit the same OG. Ferment the two batches the same way and you reproduce the original beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; an indicator that you followed the recipe correctly.  Recipes are formulated for a generic brewing setup.  The creator may be using his or her own system as a reference and knows it produces beer at the same efficiency every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you start worrying about hitting recipe gravities, get to know your system and the process.  One good question to ask is &lt;em&gt;where do I lose water&lt;/em&gt;?  Leaving sweet wort behind in your mash tun will lower your efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;So I screwed up. What do I do about it?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relax, don't worry. This is your first all-grain batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of chasing every bit of efficiency in your system at first, spend your time discovering how your system performs.  Getting the process down and understanding what is going on will eventually lead to better efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;La dee da, where's the concrete advice?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, here you go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Perhaps more important is pre-boil gravity&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are done boiling the options for hitting OG &lt;em&gt;and maintaining hop level&lt;/em&gt; are limited.  Boiling off more volume to raise the gravity also concentrates the hop flavors and drives off aroma.  Adding water to lower the gravity and raise volume dilutes hop flavor and bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hit the wrong pre-boil gravity you can fix it before starting the hop schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The pre-boil gravity, along with volume, will tell you the final gravity.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Gravity Units = Volume * Gravity Points&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Gravity Points = 1000 (SG - 1)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you add no sugars in the boil their weight will not change as water is driven off.  From your description, it sounds like you started with, maybe, 5.75 gallons at 1.045 pre-boil.  Your sweet wort contains 258.75 &quot;gravity units&quot; (volume * points, 5.75 * 45 = 258.75).  At the end of the boil the volume will be different, but the gravity units will not.  Dividing the GU (258.75) by final volume (4) gets you to 1.064, which you diluted to 1.052 in 5 gallons (4 * 64 / 5 = 52).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Bah, numbers. Get to the point already&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you get a recipe (or create one yourself) work backward to the pre-boil numbers, and try to collect the right volume &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, on my system I collect 12.5 gallons and after a typical 60 minute boil I'll hit my target 10 gallons.  My pre-boil gravity will always be about 80% weaker than my original gravity because of this.  I collect sweet wort until I've hit the volume and adjust my gravity if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good read: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/655/wiki-how-do-you-calculate-original-gravity&quot;&gt;How Do You Calculate Original Gravity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-03-31T17:50:47.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1853" CreationDate="2010-03-31T18:46:47.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the fermentation temperature?  (Not the ambient temperature in the room, but the temp in your fermenter.  Fermentation generates heat and can add up to 10 degrees to your brew as it actively ferments--forgive me if you knew this already, but I just wanted to be clear.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your fermentation temp is too high (above 70-74 degrees) you might be producing a lot of esters.  In my experience it's more of a banana smell, but you could describe it as &quot;sweet&quot;.  If that's the case it's not a big problem unless your temperatures are astronomically high.  The CO2 will scrub most of the sweet/fruity odor over the new few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will probably taste fine if you do nothing, or you could move the fermenter to a slightly cooler location to mellow it out a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, it's hard to come to any conclusions based on aroma at only 3 days fermentation.  Some yeasts will give off some funky aromas early on that go away over the course of a few days.  I've had US-05 give off some pretty nasty smells on a number of occasions and the smell always went away with no residual funkiness in the final brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if after 10-14 days it still smells too sweet to you, just dry hop the hell out of it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastEditorUserId="412" LastEditDate="2010-03-31T18:52:07.400" LastActivityDate="2010-03-31T18:52:07.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1857" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-03-31T20:12:01.000" Score="6" ViewCount="1934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wheat beer I'll be bottling this weekend. I want to add some lemon flavor to a portion of the bottles, creating something akin to (but hopefully better than) Leinie's Summer Shandy. Very refreshing for summertime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had no luck finding any tips on this, although I was told to use a drier (not too sweet) lemonade in the mix.  Any suggestions on how to do it, what to use and what to watch out for are appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jim" LastActivityDate="2010-04-01T12:35:55.703" Title="What's the best way to add lemonade to a wheat beer?" Tags="|lemonade|wheat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1857" CreationDate="2010-03-31T22:23:20.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Just Do It&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add lemonade to your bottling bucket after you bottled the &lt;em&gt;normal&lt;/em&gt; portion of wheat beer.  Remember that most lemonades will contribute sugars that the yeast will eat. Try to figure out the content you are adding and subtract it from the priming sugar. Watch out for bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Measure It&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is easy to figure out the volume of lemonade to add by doing it on a small scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour yourself a glass of wheat beer and add a (small) measured amount of lemonade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taste it and judge if you need to add more lemonade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return to step 1. until you reach the perfect taste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Record the lemonade volume and beer volume and scale it up to your bottling volume.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-03-31T22:23:20.840" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1857" CreationDate="2010-04-01T12:35:55.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe add a bit of Limoncello, some other lemon liqueur, or lemon extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to bottle about 60% beer and 40% lemon-lime soda.  This is how authentic Austrian Radlers are made (although a lot of people seem to think they're made of lemonade), which I think are considered a type of shandy.  This weakens the strength of your beer, but makes for a very thirst-quenching, crisp brew.  The drink was originally developed for bikers in the Alps, so it's not going to be insanely sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with brewchez though about over-carbonating and bottle popping potential.  With the sugar and carbonation already present in the soda (and lemonade, if you decide to go that route), you might consider lowering, or not adding any priming sugar, and conditioning them in a cooler or something to minimize damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-04-01T12:35:55.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1813" CreationDate="2010-04-01T20:50:39.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes filtering will strip away some flavor from both the hops and the malt. Depending on pore size of the filter is how much flavor you will lose.  The smaller the pore size, the more flavor loss. This can be compensated for when doing your grain bill as well as amount of hops during various additions.  Aroma hops cannot be compensated for but dry hopping can add aroma back into the beer after filtering.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Michael Korbel" LastActivityDate="2010-04-01T20:50:39.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2010-04-02T13:04:58.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew on my stove which is right next to a window.  I open the window, turn on the vent fan, and when boilover is imminent, I'll blow on the foam, and that reduces the foam quite quickly.  Granted I've only done this with extract and specialty grain, so it may not work in all-grain, but I'd recommend it for a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-04-02T13:04:58.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1867" CreationDate="2010-04-02T14:19:28.750" Score="5" ViewCount="966" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so pumpkins are not in season and I'm substituting winter squash (acorn/butternut) for my pumpkin ale recipe, but the concept remains the same as if it were pumpkin.  I've never brewed with pumpkin (or any other fruits/vegetables for that matter), so I have some questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grain bill is 13.75 lbs.  If I weren't using pumpkin I would use 1.25 quarts of mash water per pound of grain, equaling 4.3 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions is, if I'm adding about 8 pounds of pumpkin, do I need to increase my mash volume to account for that, and if so, by how much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the pumpkin will be saturated with water, I know I don't need to account for absorption in the same way that I do with the grains, but is the water displaced by the pumpkin enough to keep the grains fully submerged?  Do I need more sparge water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastEditorUserId="412" LastEditDate="2010-04-02T15:14:02.537" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T03:38:05.450" Title="Calculating Mash Water Volume When Brewing with Pumpkin" Tags="|pumpkin|fruit|mash-volume|sparge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2010-04-02T15:09:35.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Giant Pot&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a 20 gallon pot for a typical 12.5 gallon wort boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sometimes I have a spray bottle&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-04-02T15:09:35.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1865" CreationDate="2010-04-02T19:01:32.127" Score="10" ViewCount="1923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a few batches get a little too carbonated in the bottle. Currently, I have a delicious stout that fills two glasses on pour, and needs some time to settle down. That is, of course, if you open it over the sink and don't create a mess all over the kitchen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure I know why this is happening, but as it's happened more than once, I'd love some input as to possible reasons why. And no, I'm not shaking the bottles. It's not a violent  explosion, more of a steady... plume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-12-13T18:07:17.557" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T22:46:09.140" Title="Over-carbonating in the bottle" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1864" CreationDate="2010-04-02T19:26:43.810" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is only one real answer, absent any off smells or flavors and that's too many fermentables.  Infections can cause gushers too, but there would be other signs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are either adding too much priming sugar (corn sugar, DME, what have you) or you are not letting your beers reach terminal gravity, which is the point when they go dormant due to lack of fermentables.  You need to be using your hydrometer to get a starting gravity and then use it a few more times to be sure that the beer is done.  I usually call it good when the gravity remains steady without dropping for 48 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no &quot;right number&quot; for determining the final gravity of the beer.  That is determined by the effectiveness of the yeast, the style of the beer and a myriad of other factors. Most recipes do include a final gravity number, so you can know what you are shooting for.  Unless its a big beer, I usually wait until the gravity is under 1.015 before bottling for a standard ale yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting uneven carbonation, meaning some bottles that explode or gush, or some that are under-carbed, then you are not mixing the priming sugar in thoroughly enough in the bottling bucket.  I created an entire batch that was either flat or near bottle-bomb level by not carefully stirring in my priming sugar and making sure it was evenly distributed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-04-02T19:26:43.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1864" CreationDate="2010-04-02T19:27:36.723" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of the reasons I'm glad I keg my beer now.  I had this happen a bunch of times when I used to bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've always heard, it is most likely due to either a.)  Too much priming sugar, or b.)  Too many fermentable sugars left--in other words, fermentation wasn't complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another cause could be bacterial infection, but my sanitation was always very good and there were no flavors, odors, or other evidence to indicate infection.  If it tastes and smells good, and you don't see any visual evidence of contamination like a ring around the inside of the bottle neck or mold on the cap, than it probably isn't due to infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm gonna go with &quot;too much priming sugar&quot;.  I never used a calculator, but something like this might help you out in future batches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastEditorUserId="412" LastEditDate="2010-04-02T19:33:14.667" LastActivityDate="2010-04-02T19:33:14.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1862" CreationDate="2010-04-02T20:00:10.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew a sweet potato beer and I assume 1qt/lb of sweet potato.  I also adjust the thickness by eye after that.  The water to grist/veg ratio isn't really all that critical.  Nor is it all that different if you have to adjust the water a little up pr down by 10-15%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is to have enough water in there that it doesn't become a gooped up mess.  The mash needs to be liquid enough to lauter.  This is where mash experience just comes into play.  Its more of a feel issue than a set #.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-02T20:00:10.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1870" CreationDate="2010-04-03T17:10:44.917" Score="16" ViewCount="38917" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I want to make a red beer, what is the best malt to get this color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastEditorUserId="9" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T16:34:12.327" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T17:10:48.637" Title="What malt should I use to get a red beer?" Tags="|malt|color|ingredients|recipe|techniques|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1868" CreationDate="2010-04-04T01:06:42.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dark malts will give you that color. The problem is that you have to be very careful or you'll add too much roast/chocolate/bitter grain flavor. 1.5 - 3% of the grainbill to start out with; two or three ounces in a 5 gallon batch.  Try &lt;em&gt;pale chocolate&lt;/em&gt; or dehusked/debittered roast barley .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's always food coloring too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trivia: All beer is red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information than you ever may want to know about beer color is in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/578&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2009-11-16 episode of BrewStrong&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-04-04T01:06:42.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1868" CreationDate="2010-04-04T02:44:40.020" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done two red ales so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first I used a combination of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-ingredients/grain-malts/caramel-malts/weyermann-carared.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Weyermann Carared&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-ingredients/grain-malts/caramel-malts/simpsons-dark-crystal.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Simpsons Dark&lt;/a&gt; Crystal about half a pound of each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second I used a pound of crystal 20L and a pound of crystal 60L with pale malt extract. It turned out a very nice red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T13:43:20.540" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T13:43:20.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-04-05T10:17:04.690" Score="4" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it suitable for beer &quot;bottling&quot; or would the pressure tear it apart? If it's suitable it could be really useful since it can contain a large quantity of liquid with low package weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T21:14:37.663" Title="Bag-in-box packaging" Tags="|bottling|pressure|equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1868" CreationDate="2010-04-05T12:30:04.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One or two ounces of roasted barley is what I use to get that red color.  My basic red ale has a crystal 60 and 120 in it as well.  But its really the roasted barley in combo with those that gets you there.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;EDIT:&#xA;Here is a Red Ale recipe from Zymurgy magazine you can try.  I don't know if you can get these ingredients or not however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7lb Maris Otter Pale malt&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3lb Munich 10L&lt;br&gt;&#xA;0.5lb carared 20L&lt;br&gt;&#xA;0.33lb Crystal 120L&lt;br&gt;&#xA;0.25lb Roasted barley&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1.25oz fuggles hops 45min&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1.0oz EKG hops 15min  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all-grain isn't your thing; I suppose you could substitute ~5lb English LME for the Maris Otter and ~2lb of Munich LME for the munich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-04-06T12:45:31.333" LastActivityDate="2010-04-06T12:45:31.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1871" CreationDate="2010-04-05T16:00:45.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're referring to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beerinbox.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this bag-in-box&lt;/a&gt;, then there's nothing wrong with it.  You basically store flat beer in a box (which is very similar to how soda fountains work), then carbonate it as you serve.  You still, however, have to have a CO2 tank where you're planning to serve it, which is still heavy.  Your use and shelf-life would be similar to a keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are wanting to actually carbonate beer in and serve it strait out of the bag, I think the pressure would definitely tear it apart.  However if the box was sturdy enough (i.e. not made of cardboard) and smaller than the volume of the bag it could hold up and prevent the bag from popping.  The problem with this setup is once you start drinking the beer begins to go flat, similar to a 2 liter of soda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;  Have you checked out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.partypig.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Party Pig&lt;/a&gt;?  After looking into it a bit, it looks like this is exactly what we've been describing.  It however has a disposable pouch that looks like it sets outside of your beer pouch and produces pressure to prevent your beer from going flat.  I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has used one of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-04-07T21:01:51.490" LastActivityDate="2010-04-07T21:01:51.490" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1877" CreationDate="2010-04-07T11:57:45.040" Score="3" ViewCount="4758" Body="&lt;p&gt;For bottom-fermented beers the conditioning/storage temperature is crucial and supposed to be really low (32F / 0C). Is this the same for top-fermented beers or is conditioning / storage at higher temperatures acceptable or even called for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-12-13T16:52:08.013" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T16:52:08.013" Title="Ale bottle conditioning temperature" Tags="|techniques|conditioning|temperature|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1875" CreationDate="2010-04-07T13:17:09.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mid-50's to low 60's is about what you'd want to bottle condition an ale.  Lower temps could cause the remaining yeast to go dormant and not carbonate the beer adequately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as storage goes, it depends on the style in most cases.  IPA's need to be treated like deli meat--you want to drink it fresh or the hop character will start to fade.  Higher ABV brews can be stored for much longer if kept at cellar temps, and can develop more complex flavors over months or even years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, for long term storage (greater than 6 months) you'd want to cellar below 55 degrees, but not too cold or the beer may not mature very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For short-term storage after bottle conditioning, any reasonably cool (low- to mid-60's), dark place is good, and colder is fine too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-04-07T13:17:09.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1875" CreationDate="2010-04-07T14:13:26.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is a little ambiguous because the term conditioning is used to mean two different things.  Conditioning in the bottle is sometimes refered to as the process of naturally carbonating the beer.  (adding a little sugar back to the finished beer prior to packaging for the yeast to use in the generation of carbonation), trapped in the sealed package).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here however I believe the original author is meaning conditioning from a maturation standpoint.  The usage of 'condition/storage' suggests this to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For lagers (bottom fermenting) the beer is usually only stored at the 32C range while still in the bulk format.  Usually done in a secondary fermentor.  For both ales and lagers, the temperature of storage is usually kept below 55F or cellar temp (as mentioned by markskar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the longer you want to store any style of beer, the cooler you should keep it.  So standard fridge temps at 45F or less is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-07T14:13:26.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1947" CreationDate="2010-04-07T17:17:05.563" Score="3" ViewCount="1018" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my birthday, I asked my sister for a Digital Temperature Controller. Rather than buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/fermenting-equipment/fermentation-temperature-control/johnson-controls-a419-digital-temp-controller.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the one from Norther Brewer&lt;/a&gt;, I found what I thought was a better deal from Pex Supplies. However, it looks like the one I got isn't exactly the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I thought I was getting was the ability to plug a freezer into the controller, and the controller into an outlet. However, the one I got is quite confusing. Maybe it is that, just more work on my end? Is it easy to attach a power cord to this? Electrician noob I am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, here are some pictures of the one I got. The description of the one I got can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pexsupply.com/Johnson-Controls-A419GBF-1C-Single-Stage-Digital-Temperature-Control-24v-SPDT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh6.ggpht.com/_WlZSVPtusu4/S7y79pzz77I/AAAAAAAABNo/SBm8uiBy5q8/s1024/IMG00012-20100407-0759.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Digital Temperature Controller&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh4.ggpht.com/_WlZSVPtusu4/S7y79_asvgI/AAAAAAAABNs/6Y3-zRMTCtA/s1024/IMG00013-20100407-0801.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh3.ggpht.com/_WlZSVPtusu4/S7y7-J2awTI/AAAAAAAABNw/-hAWzgY6pBU/s1024/IMG00014-20100407-0802.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh3.ggpht.com/_WlZSVPtusu4/S7y8L2HPZ3I/AAAAAAAABOA/vsyAkPErEL4/s1024/IMG00016-20100407-0803.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.743" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T00:29:02.260" Title="How do I use this Digital Temperature Controller?" Tags="|equipment|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1879" CreationDate="2010-04-07T17:33:22.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;take an extension cord, cut it in half put the male side into the the ac input and put the femails side in the C (Common) and NO (Normally Open) terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd expect that to &quot;close&quot; the circuit when the temperature controller needs to heat, or cool, what ever it's set to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it works backwards, move it over to the NC but I don't expect that's the right terminal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;oh and for the temperature probe that does in the terminal at the top. but the pic isn't clear for me to see exactly how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jeff Bearer" LastActivityDate="2010-04-07T17:33:22.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1879" CreationDate="2010-04-07T17:36:54.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My big concern is that it is expecting 24vac input to power the device and power the temperature control.  if that's the case,  I think you got the wrong one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks to be true:  &quot;The A419 controls are available in 24 VAC or 120/240 VAC powered models.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jeff Bearer" LastActivityDate="2010-04-07T17:36:54.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1724" CreationDate="2010-04-07T19:31:02.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It being sunny and warm where you are you aren't really all that limited.&#xA;Just keep them well watered and aerated and you should be able to get a couple harvests from any hop bine you plant in a single growing season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it will take a year or two before you are really bringing in good multiple harvests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-07T19:31:02.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1888" CreationDate="2010-04-07T23:59:47.197" Score="4" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I bought a kit and followed the instructions. It has bee 4 days now and I don't think I have seen my airlock move. I opened the top of my bucket and there was a lot of foam (bubbles). It also looked like brown skin so I stirred the brew and took a reading with my hydrometer and my reading is 1.020 now. Is my brew fermenting properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="bryce" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T17:51:37.597" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T17:51:37.597" Title="Airlock is not moving but gravity has dropped" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1883" CreationDate="2010-04-08T12:31:25.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think, a good way to tell, whether you have a good fermentation is the smell: If you put your nose carefully in the fermenter you should smell carbon dioxide. Of course CO2 does not have a smell as a pure gas, but the fermentation CO2 smells slightly (pleasently) sour. Be careful though to not put your head too far in, since the gas in the bucket has probably displaced the oxygen and the inhalation of CO2 will make you dizzy. ALso, you will risk contamination of the brew. It should not smell sweet or overly sour (i.e. like sour milk).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastActivityDate="2010-04-08T12:31:25.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1889" CreationDate="2010-04-08T14:16:15.200" Score="6" ViewCount="4014" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you just mix them with the grains or cook them first to get them gelatinized? What are the pros and cons of each method? What portion of the fermentables can be in flake form?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-04-08T15:25:18.843" Title="Using flakes in a mash" Tags="|mash|mashing|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1886" CreationDate="2010-04-08T15:10:38.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you are making a specific recipe that uses a lot of flaked grain such as a wheat beer, the flaked portion of a recipe is usually a very small percentage of the grain bill and should be considered more of a specialty grain contributing flavour, colour, mouthfeel rather than a significant amount of fermentable sugars. Assuming you are doing a full mash (not a grain tea) they just go right into the mash as you get them from the brew shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't crush them with your other grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people suggest layering the flaked grains over and inch or so of base malt to avoid a stuck mash from the gelatins forming a layer on your false bottom or screen but I find the act of doughing in mixes them all up anyway so I'm not sure if that's really very helpful. Often people will add some rice hulls with the flaked grains just to break it up a little more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-04-08T15:10:38.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1883" CreationDate="2010-04-08T15:12:56.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreed. Sounds like its going great, the reason the airlock wasn't bubbling is probably just the seal on your bucket is letting the CO2 vent out around the lid instead of through the airlock. As long as the layer of CO2 (heavier than air) sits undisturbed on top of the fermenting wort you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-04-08T15:12:56.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1886" CreationDate="2010-04-08T15:25:18.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use flaked maize (corn), flaked oats and flaked barley in a couple different recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just put them right in the main mash mixed in with all the grain.  I have even put them through the mill a couple different occasions by accident without ill effect.  I do tend to add 0.25-0.5lb rice hulls when using flaked oats to help with the sparge.  But if your primary crush is good they grist should lauter fine anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always thought that the flaked grain process involved gelatinizing the starches already, so they don't need to be cooked or go through a cereal mash step.  Someone will have to back that up or correct me (while I look it up myself and re-edit).  This is not to say they shouldn't be mashed, because all these flaked adjuncts need to be mashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, my recipes have always used less than 10% of the total grist with these things. Flaked adjuncts tend to be used in smaller quantities than using whole corn or rice for example to lighten the body of a CAP or Light lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;So I looked and saw on a couple other forums and saw in John Palmer that most of these flaked grains are pre-gelatinized making them easier to work with from a cooking perspective.  So they don't need further processing by the brewer prior to mashing.  But they must be mashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-08T15:25:18.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1893" CreationDate="2010-04-08T18:22:56.160" Score="10" ViewCount="2010" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the effects of having a super rapid crazy boil vs. a very slow, slightly rolling boil, and the different stages in between? If you're boiling 6 gallons on an electric stove or trying to do the same thing on a propane burner, the level of your boil is different. What effects will this have on the final product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-04-08T19:11:34.947" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T13:43:27.033" Title="Effects of different boil intensities" Tags="|boil|process|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1890" CreationDate="2010-04-08T19:15:07.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Evaporation rate is the biggest effect.  You'll have to compensate for more water loss with a real aggressive boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next would be slightly faster darkening of the wort as more heat is being applied to the bottom of the pot making it hotter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part the rate of hop utilzation stays the same as boiling is boiling from a temperature and chemistry standpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the more vigourous boil would stir the wort more.  This may cause more of the hot break to actually breakdown and increase the dissolved protein content in the wort.&#xA;Similar to the effect Lambic brewers get with super long boils (approaching 6 hours).  But at the homebrew level, I would venture to guess that possibility is slim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-08T19:15:07.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1890" CreationDate="2010-04-09T04:08:35.077" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have half a blog post in my head about the six &lt;em&gt;-ations&lt;/em&gt; of the boil.  Here's a sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also listen to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/brew-strong-thermal-load/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the thermal load episode of Brew Strong&lt;/a&gt; for a lot of good information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;In general, shoot for an 8 &amp;mdash; 12% evaporation rate.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Evaporation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most obvious one. The more water you drive off, the more concentrated your wort will turn out.  This has the effect of increasing sweetness, hop flavor and bitterness.  If your recipe is formulated for a particular finish volume, you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; miss flavor targets.  It would have to be a pretty extreme difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Volatilization&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A non-obvious, but important one.  S-Methylmethionine (SMM) forms during the boil, which gives way to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/DMS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DMS&lt;/a&gt;, a cooked corn off-flavor.  DMS has a low taste threshold, meaning just a little is perceptible in the finished product.  Luckily for us, SMM easily volatilizes in the boil and is driven out. (This is why it's a bad idea to boil with the lid on.)  A weak boil will not eliminate as much DMS precursor, possibly spoiling your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Coagulation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a physical process - the act of particles bumping into each other in the boil makes them stick together. Good hot and cold break partly rely on turning over the volume of work.  Only a good rolling boil can achieve good coagulation.  The final product will be hazier and more prone to spoiling over long-term storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Caramelization&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Responsible for many complex malty flavors, this &lt;em&gt;-ation&lt;/em&gt; requires heat.  Stronger heat needed to rapidly boil will increase the reactions.  I doubt the difference between 5% and 20% evaporation rate (a easy measure of boil intensity) over a typical 60 minute boil will be very noticable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Technically, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maillard_reaction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Maillard reaction&lt;/a&gt;, but that doesn't rhyme. Caramelization involves oxygen, not present in the boil.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The other two&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil intensity won't affect &lt;em&gt;sterilization&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;isomerization&lt;/em&gt; much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;One more: energy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More energy is required to heat the boil, duh. May be a factor if you use propane. No effect on the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="13332" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T13:43:27.033" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T13:43:27.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1895" CreationDate="2010-04-09T10:10:34.740" Score="3" ViewCount="2846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a new bottle capper (two-handled hand held capper) and have tried it on a number of different types of (empty) beer bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works okay, but I've noticed that none of the caps seem to be as tight on the bottle as they are on store bought beer bottles. Eg, its too tight to be pulled off, but I can relatively easily twist the cap around in place on the bottle. Store bought bottle caps seem to be too tight to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the beer carbonate properly if it's not airtight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&#xA;Dave Smylie&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2010-04-09T13:45:11.393" Title="How tight should bottles be capped?" Tags="|capping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1894" CreationDate="2010-04-09T13:45:11.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can twist it around, its not tight enough. To carbonate, the seal on the cap must be completely airtight in order that the CO2 that is produced from residual yeast consuming the priming sugar you added before bottling will pressurize the headspace and then saturate the beer. Without the seal, the pressure in the bottle won't increase and the CO2 will leak away instead of saturating the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of a couple of things that might cause this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I assume you are not using bottles that were used for twist-off caps in the past as you can't cap those bottles using your capper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you tried another batch of caps as there may be a manufacturing fault&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some cappers have adjustable size inserts so you can cap larger Belgian style bottles or even wine/champagne bottles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-04-09T13:45:11.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1724" CreationDate="2010-04-09T20:15:37.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The experts say that the &quot;ideal&quot; growing conditions for hops are between the 34th and 55th latitudes in both the northern and southern hemispheres.  All of Florida is well below 34 degrees north latitude, so it is not an &quot;ideal&quot; location to grow hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that the days are shorter below the 34th latitude, so the plants don't get enough sunshine.  Also, hops are very susceptible to diseases like downy mildew, powdery mildew, and others, and also certain bugs can attack the plants as well.  In Florida where it's very wet, you'd be likely to run into a lot of issues with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that said, it is very possible to grow them outside this region, though you probably won't attain optimum results.  A strong, hardy strain, such as Cascade, would be necessary.  Cascade hops are known for growing well just about anywhere, but they can be susceptible to diseases if not carefully watched.  My first year Cascades yielded a pound last year--which is not generally to be expected in the first year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tettnanger, Magnum, Perle, Brewer's Gold and Nugget are all known for being pretty hardy and disease resistant and might do okay in Florida.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ones to avoid (known for being highly susceptible to disease):  Hallertau, Saaz, Hersbrucker, &amp;amp; Spalt.  There are others too, I'd suggest doing some further research before you pick a strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Growing hops is fun, I say give it a shot if you can still get rhizomes and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastEditorUserId="412" LastEditDate="2010-04-09T20:41:28.127" LastActivityDate="2010-04-09T20:41:28.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1911" CreationDate="2010-04-09T20:53:44.733" Score="3" ViewCount="1039" Body="&lt;p&gt;i took a reading of my brew and the hydrometer is reading 1.010, it smells great to me but the beer looks cloudy not clear can someone help plzzzz &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="bryce" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-04-12T14:02:55.670" LastActivityDate="2010-04-12T14:05:46.167" Title="Why does my brew look cloudy" Tags="|cloudy|clarity|problems|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1897" CreationDate="2010-04-09T23:47:03.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some good related answers. Use the search.  Here are two to get you started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/492/cleaner-wort-out-of-the-kettle&quot;&gt;Cleaner wort out of the Kettle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1036/how-do-you-filter-at-home&quot;&gt;How do you filter at home?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-04-09T23:47:03.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1528" CreationDate="2010-04-10T06:09:56.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jamil sheds some light on possibly similar subject here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.htm&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Lagunitas Undercover Investigation Shutdown Ale (described by them as an &quot;oxymoronic Imperial Mild&quot;) might be of interest to you. If you can find it... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Joe" LastActivityDate="2010-04-10T06:09:56.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="895" CreationDate="2010-04-10T06:40:00.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to test the all grain waters without investing a lot of cash, check out the 'Brew In A Bag' technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4650&amp;amp;postdays=0&amp;amp;postorder=asc&amp;amp;start=0/fa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4650&amp;amp;postdays=0&amp;amp;postorder=asc&amp;amp;start=0/fa&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You basically steep(mash) a giant bag of grain in all of the water* your brew requires in the same kettle you boil the wort in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a converted cooler for my mash tun and a Masterbuilt indoor 28qt countertop electric turkey fryer for my boil kettle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*total vol = grain absorption + evaporation + final volume &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to calculate total volume (adjust to your setup as necessary):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grain absorption = 0.11 x total lbs of grain &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;evaporation = 6 - 8% per hour (about 1 to 1.5 gallons)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;final volume = how much beer you want in your keg or bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Joe" LastActivityDate="2010-04-10T06:40:00.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1832" CreationDate="2010-04-10T07:12:58.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One guy in this discussion pitches on the same cake 8 times:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realbeer.com/discussions/showthread.php?t=19040&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.realbeer.com/discussions/showthread.php?t=19040&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Joe" LastActivityDate="2010-04-10T07:12:58.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1841" CreationDate="2010-04-10T11:53:35.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree about the bucket seal and a gravity reading, but if you have one active fermentation and one inactive, I would decant the active wine into a secondary, and siphon the other onto the yeast cake in the active primary.  The fermentation would pick up faster than repitching since the yeast is fully active and dispersed in an identical solution.  Wine yeasts are strong fermenters so I wouldn't be concerned about thinning the pitching rate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2010-04-10T11:53:35.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1909" CreationDate="2010-04-10T13:50:19.790" Score="5" ViewCount="10067" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people use coolers for mash tuns, but living in an apartment myself I can tell that having the least possible equipment is a priority. I know some people use their secondary fermenters as mash tuns. How can one do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-07-17T11:00:21.483" Title="Converting your fermentation bucket into a mash tun" Tags="|fermenter|mash|mash-tun|equipment|small-space|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1903" CreationDate="2010-04-10T13:55:23.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I performed an experiment: I put some water at about 74 degrees C in the bucket, and then I covered the bucket with its cover, a large jacket and a blanket. I noticed that the part of the blanket on top of the fermenter was a bit hot, so I had some heat casualties from there. After one hour i measured the temperature and it had dropped 9 degrees C. It's not too good, but I suppose if I put one more blanket around, emphasising on the top of the fermenter, the temperature won't decrease by more than 3-4 degrees C, which is quite good efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-04-12T13:41:20.137" LastActivityDate="2010-04-12T13:41:20.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1903" CreationDate="2010-04-10T15:33:19.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not recommend you do this.  I am assuming your fermenting bucket is plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to be super careful with your plastic fermenters.  If you have to stick ANY implement into that bucket you risk scratching it.  Scratches in plastic equal places to harbor bacteria and that means infection.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you want to save on room, but I honestly can't say that this is a good idea to do with your fragile plastic fermenting bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-04-10T15:33:19.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1903" CreationDate="2010-04-10T16:05:27.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, so the question is really about how to keep the temperature steady using a plastic bucket, so I'm reposting an alternate answer here, with my original response below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charlie Papazian's book also has an answer for this too.  He suggests taking a large carboard box big enough to contain the bucket, and then placing the bucket inside the box and surrounding it with styrofoam.  This can supposedly make a great insulated container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also suggests going to a fish market or seafood restaurant where they'll often have pre-fabricated styrofoam insulated boxes that can be super efficient at maintaining mash temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;----------Original Response-------------------------------&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're brewing beer and you've never read Charlie Papazian's &quot;The Complete Joy of Homebrewing&quot;, I suggest going out and buying a copy before you do anything else.  It is the bible of homebrewing and has a section including instructions on how to create a mash tun out of a bucket system.  Though others probably did it before him, the system is known as a &quot;Zapap&quot; lauter tun after Charlie &quot;Pap&quot;azian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you just drill a million holes in the bottom of a fermentation bucket.  Then, this bucket sits inside your bottling bucket.  The bucket with the holes in it will sit perfectly inside connector for the spigot and leave a couple inches of space for a &quot;false bottom&quot;.  And there you have it, a mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's that simple, and from what I've heard it works really well.  The main drawback is that it won't maintain a steady temperature in the way that a converted cooler will, so you may need to add hot water from time to time throughout the mash.  I've heard that if you make bigger beers using a lot of grain that the grains help to hold the heat better, so it's actually easier to maintain mash temperatures with big beers than with session beers, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a website with some pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mainebrews.com/news/2009/11/zapap-lauter-tun/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mainebrews.com/news/2009/11/zapap-lauter-tun/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually you'll want to get a converted cooler that will maintain a steady temperature over the course of an hour or more, but this is a good way to get into all grain brewing if you've been doing extract brewing and already have the equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastEditorUserId="412" LastEditDate="2010-04-10T16:47:22.577" LastActivityDate="2010-04-10T16:47:22.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1903" CreationDate="2010-04-11T13:15:51.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look into &lt;a href=&quot;http://google.com/search?q=brew+in+a+bag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brew in a bag&lt;/a&gt;. You use your kettle for your mash tun. It sounds like you're nearly there since you already use a bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-04-11T13:15:51.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1910" CreationDate="2010-04-11T15:28:00.640" Score="3" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate a little input on &quot;Priming&quot;: How do you do it? Which sugars do you use? Do you use it for all your beers and if not for which ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastActivityDate="2010-04-12T13:56:07.883" Title="Basic information on priming" Tags="|priming|techniques|conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1903" CreationDate="2010-04-12T09:59:53.657" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I converted my plastic fermenter into a mash tun/fermenter a few months ago and it works really well. Here are some pics showing how I did it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://picasaweb.google.com/halite1977/MashTunFermenter?authkey=Gv1sRgCOW-2ufb-fT7rwE#&quot;&gt;http://picasaweb.google.com/halite1977/MashTunFermenter?authkey=Gv1sRgCOW-2ufb-fT7rwE#&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of heat loss, the heat loss from the water test earlier is a bit misleading because the water will lose temperature a lot faster than mash liquid. On my first all grain using this system I lost only 2 degrees over the course of an hour (I did have a blanket over the top of the mash/tun fermenter and then a belt tied around this). Use this for your mash and then simply wash and sanitise your mash tun while you boil, ready for it to be your fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mark&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://riverroadbrewery.blogspot.com/&quot;&gt;http://riverroadbrewery.blogspot.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="536" LastActivityDate="2010-04-12T09:59:53.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1908" CreationDate="2010-04-12T13:56:07.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to prime all your beers that you plan to carbonate in the bottle.  An alternative to this would be to bottle prior to the ferment finishing and let the residual activity carbonate the beer.  This technique is not advisable for the math challenged and novice brewer.  It requires careful attention to the fermentation and a lot of experience with the same recipe and yeast strain to get SAFE and predictable results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Priming can be acheived with any fermentable sugar source one choses:&#xA;Table sugar&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Corn sugar&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Honey&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Maple syrup&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Agave syrup&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Malt extracts  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount one uses depends on the potential extract for each type of sugar.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/resources/carbonation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BYO magazine&lt;/a&gt; has a nice write up online for three simple sugar sources.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TastyBrew&lt;/a&gt; has a nice calculator which lets you pick your beer style and gives you the amount needed for a couple simple sugars or DME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general one can assume an extract potential of ~1.033 for most simple sugars.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A simple description on the math of extracts can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com/working-with-ppg-and-specific-gravity/126&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-12T13:56:07.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1897" CreationDate="2010-04-12T14:05:46.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its possible that you haven't given the beer enough time to settle out.  A hydrometer reading of 1.010 may indicate that fermentation is done.  But there is likely still plenty of stuff still settling out.&#xA;I'd recommend moving the fermentor to someplace cooler than fermentation temps, as this will help promote the settling of stuff.  If you have a secondary fermentor you can rack to that, but I don't really think its necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let all my beers sit in primary for 10-14 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-12T14:05:46.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1913" CreationDate="2010-04-12T19:48:07.417" Score="6" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I must have been really lucky with my yeasts so far but usually my beers turned out nicely carbonated without any priming. The last batch though is really flat. Is it still possible to prime in the bottle, i.e. open the bottle insert the desired amount of sugar and leave it to carbonate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-12-13T18:06:15.730" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T18:06:15.730" Title="Priming still possible after bottling" Tags="|techniques|bottle-conditioning|priming|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1912" CreationDate="2010-04-12T20:35:53.850" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my first batch I had the following issue: knowing very little about brewing and even more about what &quot;fermentable sugars&quot; are, I primed used raw cane sugar I had first burned into caramel, for some extra taste. The result, of course, was a beer with almost no alcohol. I discussed this with more experienced home brewers and what they advised me was the following: &lt;strong&gt;dilute the wanted amount of sugar in as little water as possible,boil it for sanitation, sanitise new caps, open all your bottles and pour the corresponding amount of sugarwater in each using a simple syringe,then recap.&lt;/strong&gt; It worked just fine, my beer carbonated normally and I didn't have any contamination issues at all. Go for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-04-12T20:35:53.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1915" CreationDate="2010-04-13T13:48:53.947" Score="4" ViewCount="2446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone had a link to a graphic of what the typical profesional mash tun is like.  Specifically I was wondering if the majority of professional scaled mash tuns draw from underneath the tun below the false bottom, or do they draw up and out the side, like many (most) homebrew setups?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also how do pro mash tuns get heated?  Steam jackets for step mashes I assume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T01:48:26.683" Title="Pro Mash Tun design" Tags="|mash|equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1914" CreationDate="2010-04-13T15:50:59.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;For some brewing equipment porn have a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.probrewer.com/classifieds/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ProBrewer Classifieds forum&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the professional mash tuns I've seen drain from the bottom, many into a grant.  I don't think there is  a good way to start a siphon at that scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the tuns I encounter are steam jacketed. Some smaller ones are direct-fire. Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saint Arnold&lt;/strong&gt; steam, 120 BBL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Southern Star&lt;/strong&gt; steam, 15 BBL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bootlegger's Brewery&lt;/strong&gt; direct fire, 3 BBL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anchor Steam&lt;/strong&gt; steam&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-04-13T15:50:59.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-04-13T15:52:07.990" Score="6" ViewCount="776" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just yesterday I opened up my first stage fermenter to transfer my Scottish ale to it's second stage. First of all...it looked like toxic waste. Second of all...I smelled it and it literally singed my nose hairs. Finally...it doesn't taste &lt;em&gt;bad&lt;/em&gt; but it DOES taste like fire (not that it stings...it just tastes very strange)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked a Scottish Ale for this brew because I don't think I've ever really had one and it'd be a fun way to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this supposed to be such a serious beast, or did something go wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="537" LastActivityDate="2010-04-14T13:11:39.337" Title="Scottish Ale - is it supposed to taste like fire?" Tags="|ale|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1916" CreationDate="2010-04-13T17:10:21.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What was the recipe for your Scottish Ale?  It sounds like your beer has been contaminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just had a commercial Scottish Ale last night and it definitely didn't &quot;singe my nose hairs&quot;.  It had a sweet, malty taste, low hop character, and a bit of a smoky flavor, but definitely not fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-04-13T17:20:59.443" LastActivityDate="2010-04-13T17:20:59.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-04-13T17:42:01.643" Score="4" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is an ideal environment for saving yeast I have harvested from my fermentation vessels?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The lowest survivable temperature? Highest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently found the top of my fridge to be too cold when I couldn't revive yeast that had probably neared freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-04-14T15:51:11.583" LastActivityDate="2010-04-14T15:51:11.583" Title="Temperature conditions for saving cropped yeast?" Tags="|yeast|temperature|storage|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1918" CreationDate="2010-04-13T18:37:51.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From White Labs &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/Yeast_Storage_&amp;amp;_Maintenance_Article.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yeast Storage and Maintenance&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As yeast sit in storage, they consume&#xA;  their glycogen reserves. Glycogen&#xA;  deprivation weakens their cell walls,&#xA;  and makes them more susceptible to&#xA;  rupture. Cold temperatures retard this&#xA;  process, but you want to avoid&#xA;  freezing yeast, as ice crystals will&#xA;  also rupture cells. The ideal storage&#xA;  temperatures range is between 33-38 F.&#xA;  When yeast rupture, they release their&#xA;  contents into the liquid phase.&#xA;  Bacteria can feed off the nitrogen&#xA;  released, and multiply rapidly. So the&#xA;  yeast slurry needs to be as&#xA;  contamination free as possible when&#xA;  stored. Cold temperatures will also&#xA;  help retard bacterial growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're ok as long as it didn't actually reach freezing.  Do you have a thermometer in your fridge to take the temperature?  If your fridge isn't below 33 and you can't revive it, something else is wrong.  How old was the yeast and how often did you feed it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-04-13T18:44:07.480" LastActivityDate="2010-04-13T18:44:07.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1916" CreationDate="2010-04-14T13:11:39.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Th singe in your nose was the CO2 you get a wiff of.  It tends to 'burn' the mucos membranes a bit in the nose.  (If you've ever had to lean into a near empty dry ice bin to scoop out dry ice you'd know what I am talking about).  So that part is quite normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature that you fermented and the choice of yeast may have created some higher order &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fusel_alcohol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fusel alcohols&lt;/a&gt;.  These alcohols tends to burn a bit as they go down.  Not to mention that when consumed in higher amounts give you a wicked headache (no comment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style09.php#1c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scottish ale&lt;/a&gt; should be smooth and malty.  It typically is presented in three strengths all of which are low to medium alcohol.  They are normally session beers.  There should be pronounced toffee and dark bread flavors.  Scottish ale is very pleasant and highly drinkable.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style09.php#1e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scotch Ale&lt;/a&gt; on the other hand is intended to be higher in alcohol and I can see that if your ferment wasn't done well you'd have some burning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the age of your sampling (likely early as you were talking about wiffing the fermentor)  I suspect got into the beer early.&#xA;In my experience, scotch and scottish ales take some time to balance out right.  Even the mildest forms of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style09.php#1a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;60/- scottish ale&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So give it some time and/or watch the fermentation temp next time around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-14T13:11:39.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1918" CreationDate="2010-04-14T13:19:57.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Store the yeast at normal fridge temps, but keep it away from the top shelf where the coldest air comes out of the vents (although its not the coldest part of the fridge).  The bottom of the fridge is the coldest spot and stuff is less likely to freezer there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the optimum storage medium in the fridge is water.  After you take a sample of yeast cake you should dilute it with water (boiled and cooled water).  Then shake it up to help break up chunks.  Heavy clumps of protein and hop debris will settle out first.  You can then pour off the dark milk like yeast layer.  Let it settle over night. Then pour off the liquid and replace with an inch or two of water.  This greatly reduces any residual nutrients inthe container.  Yeast will slowly try and consume nutrients in the medium if possible even at cold temps.  Ultimately, they yeast stress themselves out too much doing so and it becomes difficult to revive them because the viability drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've store yeast like this for 3-4 weeks with good luck. Stepping in the back up in at least a two step starter is good after prolonged storage.  If less than a week you can pitch the slurry directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-14T13:19:57.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1647" CreationDate="2010-04-14T15:13:12.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some cropped slurry from another batch that was a bit long in the tooth.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr Malty calculator&lt;/a&gt; said it was only 16% viable, but I had it on hand and it was appropriate to the style, so I made a starter with it and a packet of Nottingham dry.  Worked a treat!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-04-14T15:13:12.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1766" CreationDate="2010-04-14T15:33:24.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend &lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/ruinationpress&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;@ruinationpress&lt;/a&gt; recently asked me about another solution. Austin Homebrew has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?products_id=1227&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;specialized&quot; Wine Thief&lt;/a&gt; that has been altered (so they say) to allow a hydrometer to sit inside. This allows you to put a sanitized thief in the carboy (assuming you're using a carboy), check the gravity, and pull it out, without removing wort / beer at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this is actually a good idea or not, but I didn't think asking a question about this product itself would be worth it. So, here's another answer for measuring gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-04-14T15:33:24.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1927" CreationDate="2010-04-14T17:52:20.903" Score="3" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to make one of the mash tuns out of a plastic bucket.  I find instructions like &quot;drill a bazillion holes into the bottom with a small drill bit&quot;.  How small?  Is there a size that's too small and likely to get clogged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-04-14T18:18:08.400" LastActivityDate="2010-04-14T18:18:08.400" Title="How big do the holes need to be in a Zapap style Mash/Lauter Tun?" Tags="|equipment|mash-tun|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1926" CreationDate="2010-04-14T18:12:22.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe Papazian indicated 1/8th inch holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-14T18:12:22.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1929" CreationDate="2010-04-14T19:09:44.183" Score="4" ViewCount="2922" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming full attenuation, is there a way to figure out what gravity reading would be suitable to not use priming sugar, and just allow the excess sugar to create the carbonation? A sub-question would be how much gravity some the 3/4 cup priming sugar add?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OG on my blonde was 1.052. I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp001.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;California Ale Yeast (WLP001)&lt;/a&gt;, which has an attenuation of 73-80%. Therefore, the potential TG is between 1.014 and 1.010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I bottle at, say, 1.016, will that be enough to carbonate the beer without adding sugar? 1.020?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-04-14T20:34:59.417" Title="What gravity is suitable for not using priming sugar?" Tags="|priming-sugar|specific-gravity|attenuation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1928" CreationDate="2010-04-14T20:34:59.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know that your mean potential FG is 1.012 (this is an example, when designing your batch you can predict your FG more or less). You can find the amount of priming sugar needed according to style and temperature from here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://kotmf.com/tools/prime.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://kotmf.com/tools/prime.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you know the amount of priming sugar needed, all you have to do is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OG needed=FG+(priming sugar*sugar gravity)/(volume)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you have to do is insert the values of FG (predicted), amount of priming sugar needed, sugar SG per gallon and your volume in gallons and you've got the requested gravity!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-04-14T20:34:59.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1932" CreationDate="2010-04-15T18:53:40.967" Score="5" ViewCount="4941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see both &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/catalogsearch/result/?q=brass+barb&amp;amp;x=0&amp;amp;y=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brass&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/catalogsearch/result/?q=stainless+barb&amp;amp;x=0&amp;amp;y=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stainless&lt;/a&gt; fittings for sale. Which is appropriate to use when?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T11:13:48.203" Title="Brass vs. Stainless Steel for fittings" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1935" CreationDate="2010-04-15T20:06:27.887" Score="4" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a plate chiller and so can chill my wort quickly to preserve the hop aroma, but I also need to whirlpool to mound up hot break, which takes 10 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can use a hop-back to get hop flavor at the very last.  What about whirlpooling waiting, and then adding the last hops with little or no stirring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-04-16T15:34:39.820" Title="How do I reconcile hopbursting and whirlpooling?" Tags="|process|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1930" CreationDate="2010-04-16T02:07:54.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stainless is great for any brewing applications except where heat-transfer is desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brass is awesome for situations when you can't afford to buy stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both alloys are fine for brewing. Stainless does not conduct heat as well as brass or copper.  Some brass fittings should be &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pickled&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; to eliminate lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-04-16T02:07:54.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1934" CreationDate="2010-04-16T12:37:12.863" Score="18" ViewCount="14139" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does it do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you pass finished wort through it hot or cold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-04-12T12:24:52.153" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T07:55:38.147" Title="What is a hopback?" Tags="|equipment|aroma|techniques|hops|flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1933" CreationDate="2010-04-16T14:51:58.660" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DRQJz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DRQJz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hopback&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bayareabrewing.com/category/homebrew/10/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://bayareabrewing.com/category/homebrew/10/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Theory&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hopback#Hopback&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hopback&lt;/a&gt; is a sealed chamber into which you put whole leaf hops.  &lt;strong&gt;Hot wort&lt;/strong&gt; exits the kettle, passing through the hopback before chilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like whirlpool additions, the hops contribute volatile aroma compounds that would normally evaporate in the boil. The leaf hops also filter hot break, helping to clear your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Construction&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any sealed chamber large enough to hold a few ounces of whole leaf will do. Probably 10-20 grams per gallon of wort.  Add an inlet and outlet and put some sort of screen on the outlet.  The one pictured above is good for gravity flows, but might not work as well for force pumped wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-12T12:23:56.380" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T12:23:56.380" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1931" CreationDate="2010-04-16T15:34:39.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recirc hot wort out of the kettle through the hopback and back to the kettle.  Creating the whirlpool as the wort reenters the kettle.  Yes you may loose a little hop aroma volatiles when it goes back to the hot kettle, but I'd say use more hops and/or a bigger hop back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will pick up some debris from the hopback actually, so adding that to the whirlpool may help keep it out of your plate chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other overall option is to stop whirlpooling and use a mechanical means to keep break out of the chiller.  Like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihomebrewsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;view=article&amp;amp;id=54%3athe-hop-stopper&amp;amp;catid=25%3aihs-projects&amp;amp;Itemid=54&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hopstopper&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually use the hopbacks filtering capacity to help you out and build a hopback with a large screen for the break in there instead of in the kettle.  So then you'd kill the heat, run into the hopback and into the plate chiller and done.  So it would be a grant device that could also hold hops.  That would save a little time too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-16T15:34:39.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1937" CreationDate="2010-04-16T15:35:36.123" Score="7" ViewCount="13214" Body="&lt;p&gt;How is it used?&#xA;What does it do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T16:35:55.590" Title="What is a grant?" Tags="|equipment|techniques|wort|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1936" CreationDate="2010-04-16T15:54:13.287" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a good definition according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue6.6/depiro.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;brewingtechniquies.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lauter grant:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a pump to&#xA;move wort from the lauter tun to the&#xA;kettle, it is easy to pull liquid from&#xA;the tun faster than the grain bed&#xA;wants it to flow, compacting the bed&#xA;and causing a stuck runoff. Aside from&#xA;being a large pain, a stuck runoff can&#xA;also damage the pump (magnetically&#xA;coupled pumps can be damaged if run&#xA;dry).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution to this problem is to&#xA;purchase a speed controller for your&#xA;pump, but these are expensive. Another&#xA;option is to install a ball valve on&#xA;the outlet side of a centrifugal pump&#xA;to restrict flow, but ball valves can&#xA;be difficult to use for fine-tuning&#xA;liquid flow. A lauter grant represents&#xA;another possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lauter grant is simply a vessel that&#xA;collects the wort from the lauter tun.&#xA;The pump is plumbed directly to the&#xA;lauter grant instead of the lauter&#xA;tun. Gravity gently pulls the wort&#xA;from the lauter tun, thus minimizing&#xA;compression of the grain bed. A float&#xA;switch can be used to turn the pump on&#xA;when the grant is full, thus freeing&#xA;the brewer to tend to other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My lauter grant is an old plastic&#xA;bottling bucket (see photo on page&#xA;45). A hose runs from the lauter tun&#xA;to the bottom of the grant (to avoid&#xA;aeration of the wort) and a pump is&#xA;attached to tubing that leaves the&#xA;grant through the spigot. This simple&#xA;arrangement eliminates the need for an&#xA;expensive pump speed controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2010-04-16T15:54:13.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1930" CreationDate="2010-04-16T16:00:03.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brass is also softer than stainless, so there's no need to use Teflon tape.  You can attach a brass fitting to a Therminator, for instance, without fear of the threads welding together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-04-16T16:00:03.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1940" CreationDate="2010-04-16T22:49:32.027" Score="7" ViewCount="418" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what point in the brewing process do you need to be concerned about light skunking the beer? Only after the fermentation has started? Or right from the start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From doing a bit of research on the net, it seems even a short period of light can cause the beer to skunk, but obviously you need some light for seeing what you are doing during the brewing and bottling process. I try not to do any of this during the day (so I'm only using artificial lights), but the exposure for this short a period even something I should be concerned about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as I'm brewing this in a garage with windows, I've ended up putting a large wooden barrel over top of my brewing container to block out the light completely during the fermentation process. Is this a reasonable approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2010-04-19T10:08:30.997" Title="Light control during brewing process" Tags="|light|skunk|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1939" CreationDate="2010-04-16T23:23:56.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Protecting the beer while fermenting is a good idea.  In theory, the &quot;danger&quot; time would begin as soon as you have created some isomerized hop acids in the boil.  As those are the compounds that skunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, skunking is a time dependent process.  So your beer can take a hit of light during racking and bottling and probably be unnoticeable.  I wouldn't bottle in heavy sunlight at noon!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all the years I have been brewing I have brewed in a garage an on my patio in the broad daylight.  I have never had a beer that was skunked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no worries, focus on other areas of concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-16T23:23:56.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1815" CreationDate="2010-04-17T12:00:14.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drink your beer!&#xA;This usually filters out everything you want and leaves it in your belly.&#xA;Everything you don't want, comes out shortly after. And it's pretty clear.&#xA;I find this to be the best way to filter my beer.&#xA;But good luck with those other methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="ARH" LastActivityDate="2010-04-17T12:00:14.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1942" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-04-18T21:32:43.770" Score="4" ViewCount="898" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some best practices for scaling a 5 gallon homebrew batch up to something bigger, be it a 10-15 gallon batch, or a full on multiple barrel commercial batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Efficiency goes up on some bigger systems, and not everything scales in a linear 1:1 fashion, such as hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some things to keep in mind, equations, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is a community wiki. Anyone can edit the question and all answers, and no one receives reputation.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-04-19T13:20:22.070" Title="[Wiki] Tips for recipe scaling" Tags="|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-04-18T21:32:51.773" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1942" CreationDate="2010-04-19T01:31:27.360" Score="-1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Convert things to percentages&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;By weight&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;70% Maris Otter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20% Rye Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5% Munich Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3% Crystal 120L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2% Special B&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;80% Bittering Mt Hood&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;18% Flavor Kent Goldings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2%  Aroma Saaz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-04-19T01:31:27.360" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-04-19T01:31:27.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1939" CreationDate="2010-04-19T10:08:30.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In all the years I have been brewing I&#xA;  have brewed in a garage an on my patio&#xA;  in the broad daylight. I have never&#xA;  had a beer that was skunked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would echo these sentiments, I have certainly tasted skunked commercial beer, however this was always due to packaging in clear bottles. At a home brew level, if you are using brown bottles and fermenting in some sort of dark area it is really not going to be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="536" LastActivityDate="2010-04-19T10:08:30.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1942" CreationDate="2010-04-19T13:20:22.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience things scale linearly in the homebrew range fairly well.  Certainly, malts and sugars do.  I have taken 5 gallon (even 3 gallon) recipes up to 15 gallons and done everything linearly.  For my palate I couldn't taste any dramatic differences with the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However on larger scales of 3bbl systems to 10+bbl systems its more of an issue it seems.  And I think it is at that scale that we get such information about scaling concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-19T13:20:22.070" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-04-19T13:20:22.070" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1042" CreationDate="2010-04-19T13:29:46.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boil overs.  They happen.  I've been brewing near to 5 years... I STILL boil over, unless I'm standing next to my kettle for the full hour.  I tend to be in the kitchen, doing other tasks (making up breakfasts/lunches for the week ahead, helping with dinner's prep-work, etc.).  I was actually quite proud with the batch I just brewed (and is in day 9 fermenting) because I was able to do other tasks and NOT boil over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the Hydrometer, I agree with those above, it's not essential to brewing, but is darn close.  Like a speedometer on your car.  Not necessary to get from home to work, but is a key tool to help you avoid a large number of issues.  I have broken many hydrometers, and my recommendation is that you only handle it at the point where the fat and skinny parts come together.  That is the weakest part of the hydrometer (and where every one of mine has broken).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-04-19T13:29:46.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1879" CreationDate="2010-04-19T15:33:23.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this diagram on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=21395&amp;amp;start=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thread on Northern Brewer&lt;/a&gt;. Helps immensely for the electrician-impaired:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KgwBo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KgwBo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A419 Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.danmerk.com/a419_dwg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;danmerk.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T19:20:53.843" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T19:20:53.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-04-19T20:28:36.590" Score="6" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several food allergies and a big one is malt. Because I thirst for a good beer once in a while and the difficulty of finding beer I can drink, I am entertaining the idea of brewing my own beer. What are some of the best online resources and/or books on getting started?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:17:01.950" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:17:01.950" Title="Best Resources on Getting Started?" Tags="|beer|nutrition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1948" CreationDate="2010-04-19T20:53:07.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This site, for one. As you learn more, you'll have more questions. Be sure to ask us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term you're going to want to search for is &lt;code&gt;gluten free&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;sorghum&lt;/code&gt;. Those are the ingredients I'm guessing you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HomebrewTalk.com&lt;/a&gt; is a great resource for all things brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Your Own&lt;/a&gt; magazine has some articles about gluten free brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bardsbeer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bard's Tale Brewing&lt;/a&gt; makes gluten free beer. They can be a good resource as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, your local homebrew shop, depending on where you are, should have some excellent resources both in paper and brain form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a little research on this on my own, and it was hard to find very much out there. Please share what you find!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-04-19T20:53:07.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1948" CreationDate="2010-04-20T10:02:20.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a vast array of gluten free beers you can make with alternative fermentable resources, like quinoa, buckwheat, sorghum, rice and maize.  This sounds like a really fun project.  I recommend looking into African opaque beers.  Nigeria had a restriction on the importation of barley in 1986 and many brewers were forced to utilise sorghum.  There might be some good recipe suggestions from that debacle, and I know opaque beer remains popular in South Africa.  If you are thirsty now or want something to sip on while making your homebrew I can recommend RedBridge.  It is a sorghum beer brewed by Anheuser-Busch.  Have fun and best of luck!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="372" LastActivityDate="2010-04-20T10:02:20.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1952" CreationDate="2010-04-20T16:06:43.677" Score="3" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Blichmann Therminator counterflow chiller (I know, extravagant, but it is the awesome).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions say to operate it with the hot wort input facing down, so that gravity causes the wort chamber to fill correctly.  They say that if you get a bubble in the wort, it will oxidize your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really? One bubble? I don't worry much at all about hot-side aeration when moving hot wort around. Why should I worry about a bubble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-04-20T18:20:58.830" Title="Is trapped air in a counterflow chiller really an aeration risk?" Tags="|hot-side-aeration|aeration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1951" CreationDate="2010-04-20T18:20:58.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only till that one bubble is depleted of oxygen.  So I guess its a function of the size of the bubble or bubbles.&#xA;Of course a lot little bubbles will have more surface area and the wort if being spread over a lot of surface area too.  Its a wonder there isn't pure cardboard coming out of the outflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you are probably fine.  Certainly where there is hot wort, oxygen and turbulence there is oxidation happening.  But its probably minuscule otherwise I would have heard of some many great reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd still work my hardest to minimize the flow issues as they describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-20T18:20:58.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1967" CreationDate="2010-04-20T19:11:38.310" Score="7" ViewCount="2059" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brew in a bag.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No chill.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Olive Oil aeration substitute.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Overnight mashing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Batch Sparging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list continues.&#xA;These types of techniques are great and frequent areas of discussion in the home brewing forums and the like.  I also have no doubt that these techniques are making good drinkable beer.  I am sure brewers who use these types of techniques really enjoy their beer. Otherwise, they wouldn't really make it to daylight discussions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But is anyone REALLY making world class beer?  I mean, has anyone seen or heard of competitions being WON by brewers using these techniques.  Or for that matter, even probrewers going these routes where possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in Zymurgy magazine they publish the recipes and results of the National Homebrew Competition each year.  I find it interesting that in the years where they have included &quot;fermenter type&quot; in the recipe description, no one ever has &quot;in plastic bucket&quot; as a fermenter.  Either winning brewers are afraid to admit they use buckets or everyone making top notch beer really is using glass or stainless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not trying to take away from these techniques, just trying to make sense of the observation that by competition measures, I don't seem to see non-traditional techniques overtaking the more tradition 'time honored' brewing techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a wiki, so what say you????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T16:24:46.623" Title="Alternative/Non-traditional Brewing Practices" Tags="|techniques|flavor|alternatives|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-04-20T19:11:38.310" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1955" CreationDate="2010-04-20T20:03:57.540" Score="4" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had one WLP001 vial of yeast that was only 14 days past its &quot;best buy&quot; date.  I made a starter on a stir plate 2 full days before brewing.  I got good growth as estimated by an increase in creamy opaqueness of the start wort post 2 days (looks like most starters I make, so no worries there).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I crash cooled it overnight, anticipating I'll pitch the slurry only the next day into a Brown Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never got to brew the brown ale sad to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I have yeast still in the fridge and settled out.  The spent starter wort still above it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which route is the best course of action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch the slurry as is after bringing it to room temp.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decant spent wort and add new start wort day of brew session.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ditch the whole thing and start fresh.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something I didn't think of.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Tonight I am going to make a gallon of starter wort and awaken the yeast on the stir plate in there. Then I am going to use it for brewing tomorrow night.  I'll update on the final beer later if I remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-04-29T18:28:54.090" LastActivityDate="2010-04-29T18:28:54.090" Title="Would you trust this starter?" Tags="|starter|wort|yeast|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2010-04-20T22:08:11.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You're probably fine&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decant off most of the liquid.  Taste it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swirl up the slurry. Taste it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Be sanitary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-04-20T22:08:11.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1953" CreationDate="2010-04-21T07:35:12.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following is just my own opinion, so many errors may be included:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Plastic absorbs some smell each time you use it, so using a &lt;strong&gt;plastic bucket&lt;/strong&gt; for a fermenter makes your next beer taste sliiiiightly like your previous one. I'm not saying one can tell what my previous batch was, but, since this problem exists, it affects the flavour clarity for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;strong&gt;BIAB&lt;/strong&gt; is a quite new technique, still not fully designed, so if someone had won a competition using BIAB, it would be a revolution. The main disadvantage, imho, in this technique, is that most BIABrewers use the &lt;strong&gt;&quot;no-chill&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; method, which may not cause contamination problems, but the wort gets in touch with plastic as well, and ,combined with the really high temperatures, make me concerned even for cancer hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Concerning the &lt;strong&gt;batch sparge&lt;/strong&gt; method, if we are talking about exactly the same technique, I guess the main disadvantage is that it is &quot;single infusion&quot;, so the enzymes are not developed ideally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-04-21T07:35:12.510" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-04-21T07:35:12.510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-04-21T07:53:13.540" Score="7" ViewCount="3742" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question looks similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1886/using-flakes-in-a-mash&quot;&gt;Using flakes in a mash&lt;/a&gt;, but is not actually the same. I was thinking, if someone runs out of maize flakes, and definitely wants to use some for his mash, what happens if he uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corn_flakes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;corn flakes&lt;/a&gt;? Anyone can see that they are not just maize flakes, but also contain other nutrients, some of them actually being sugars, but are the flakes themselves fermentable? In the same spirit, around my place they sell some rice crackers that are not actually baked, but are more like rice popcorn pressed into cracker form. What happens if someone uses these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T12:48:21.867" Title="Using commercial (breakfast) cereals in a mash" Tags="|beer|fermentation|ingredients|all-grain|mashing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-04-21T08:02:41.397" Score="6" ViewCount="1963" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everywhere I see conversations about BIAB, people are always referring to nylon or polyester bags. Why can't one use, let's say, a cotton bag, since it will be so thin it won't hold any water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T13:48:17.740" Title="Why use a synthetic bag for BIAB?" Tags="|biab|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1958" CreationDate="2010-04-21T12:15:43.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think flow through a cotton bag, like a pillowcase (?), would be so slow it would be time prohibitive.  Cheese cloth or hemp may be a natural alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-21T12:15:43.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1961" CreationDate="2010-04-21T12:35:30.713" Score="7" ViewCount="1289" Body="&lt;p&gt;My most successful brew to date has been Northern Brewer's Scottish 80/- extract kit.  It was a dead ringer for Belhaven, but lacked Belhaven's body and mouthfeel, maybe due to the fermentability of the extracts in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to do a mini-mash next time with the focus on adding body to the beer. The extract will provide much of the fermentables, so I don't care if this mini-mash is skewed very strongly toward dextrins. How do I adjust the mash temperature to lend body?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T14:30:25.130" Title="How do I adjust mash temperature and thickness to add body to a beer?" Tags="|mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1960" CreationDate="2010-04-21T13:24:19.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are easy two things you can do in the mash to manipulate the flavor profile (this also applies to steeping specialty grains).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Thick Mash&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a water to grist ratio that is less than 1.25 quart per pound (2.6 L/kg).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[It] is better for protein breakdown,&#xA;  and results in a faster overall starch&#xA;  conversion, but the resultant sugars&#xA;  are less fermentable and will result&#xA;  in a sweeter, maltier beer. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-6.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mash Warm&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alpha amylase &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Mash_temperatures&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;is responsible for unfermentable sugars&lt;/a&gt;. Hit a temperature above 150°F (65.5°C), like 164°F (73°C).  Get there quickly to denature beta amylase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/assets/img/assets/f79.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mash temperatures&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Brew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-08-17T14:30:25.130" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T14:30:25.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1960" CreationDate="2010-04-21T13:25:11.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest using a combo of base malt and carapils or dextrin malt.  I'd mash in really high say, 158°F(70°C)-160°F(71°C).  Make it 20% of your total 'extract' and see how that improves body in the final beer.   Essentially, I am suggesting making a 20% slug of something that has really high body and residual dextrins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you can even try steeping some carapils/dextrin malt in your extract recipe with no mini mash at all.  Post the recipe and you'll be able to get even more specific help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something I have found with brewing scottish ales (especially 60/-) is they need time to mature.  For some weird reason, they really don't start to take on good mouthfeel characteristics until a month after fermentation.  So I'd maybe hold off on any big recipe or process changes until this beer has time to mature a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T12:58:26.500" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T12:58:26.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1965" CreationDate="2010-04-21T13:57:25.480" Score="4" ViewCount="3317" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the standard 10-gallon, cylindrical cooler, what's the upper limit of grain I can reasonably expect to mash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-04-21T15:45:10.773" Title="How many pounds of grain can you mash in a cylindrical cooler?" Tags="|mash-tun|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1966" CreationDate="2010-04-21T14:04:55.773" Score="5" ViewCount="2288" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first all-grain batch was, er, a bit hectic.  I forgot to add my Whirlfloc tablet in the last ten minutes of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can use isinglass for fining at room temperature, but my brew partner is vegetarian, so that pretty much makes me a vegetarian, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I boil up a Whirlfloc tablet with some water, let it cool, and add it to the beer when I rack to secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-04-21T15:46:24.953" LastActivityDate="2010-04-22T20:24:35.680" Title="Can I add finings after fermentation has begun?" Tags="|fining|techniques|clarity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1963" CreationDate="2010-04-21T14:29:26.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that this is for a standard 5-gallon batch, and assuming typical mash thickness, you need 1.25 quarts of water for every pound of grain, so the upper limit would theoretically be 25 lbs.  (1.25*25 = 31.25 quarts = 7.81 gallons of strike water).  The 7.81 gallons of water is displaced by the weight of the grains, so further compensation is needed for space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where I cheated and used the &quot;Can I Mash It?&quot; calculator on the following page, showing that you need 9.81 gallons of space for 25 lbs. of grain:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Keep in mind you need to also subtract out the dead volume beneath the false bottom if that is how one's equipment is set up.  That will take away from some of the volume available for the grain in a sense making your cylindrical a little smaller than 10 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-04-21T15:45:10.773" LastActivityDate="2010-04-21T15:45:10.773" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1964" CreationDate="2010-04-21T15:15:45.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Probably not&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Irish moss (half of Whirlfloc) is a kettle coagulant.  In a roiling boil the seaweed is like a snowball, crashing into and sticking to proteins.  It needs that rolling action to clump.  If your fermentation is still vigorous then you may get some benefit, but I'm not sure what role temperature plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Let it sit longer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave it in your fermenter for two or three extra weeks and let gravity do it's thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-04-21T15:15:45.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1953" CreationDate="2010-04-21T15:43:05.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With regard to the issue about using plastic. I would say that the reason that 'plastic' brewers are not winning competitions is simply a matter of the process of sophistication. What I mean by this is that when you start brewing you more than likely are going to use plastic buckets and better bottles, at this stage in your brewing 'career' you are not thinking of entering competitions you are simply worried about making drinkable beer. As you progress through your brewing 'career' logical steps happen, one of these is to upgrade your technique (Kit to extract to AG) and your equipment (boiler, fermenter, carboys) so it is probably reasonable to argue that the guys who win compeitions are those who have brewed for a good many years, if this is the case then they have probably made the leap to SS and glass by the time they come to competition brewing, or at least by the time they get to a standard whereby they are winning competitions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="543" LastActivityDate="2010-04-21T15:43:05.657" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-04-21T15:43:05.657" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1971" CreationDate="2010-04-21T17:37:26.520" Score="10" ViewCount="10135" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stouts, especially beers like Guiness (its cousin Kilkenny as well), have a head that's really creamy. Being a stout lover myself, I always envied this head, but I have no idea how one can achieve it. What is so different about these beers' recipe that produces such an exceptional head? Can we achieve it at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T11:25:27.663" Title="What causes a stout's creamy head?" Tags="|stout|head|recipe|ingredients|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1972" CreationDate="2010-04-21T17:41:33.343" Score="6" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand (from experience) how to brew with extract and steeping specialty grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand (from reading numerous books, blogs, etc.) how to do an all-grain mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see little on how to partial mash.  Do I add the specialty grains to the partial-mash or after?  Do I sparge the partial-mash?  Do I wait the hour that an all-grain mash requires?  Typically my beers take 6(or so) pounds of malt syrup, what percentage of malt should be partial-mashed and how much should I reduce the Malt Extract by to compensate (ie, 1 pound of mash = X pounds less syrup/powder)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T05:54:53.473" Title="How do I do a partial mash?" Tags="|partial-mash|specialty-grains|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1968" CreationDate="2010-04-21T17:56:34.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I seem to recall something about having to use a Nitrogen cannister instead of CO2 when you keg it.  I have no idea how to do it if you bottle condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-04-21T17:56:34.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1968" CreationDate="2010-04-21T19:01:49.570" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding some wheat to the recipe can give some good body and head retention. There are a bunch of other methods as well. Check out this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewwiki.com/index.php/Head_Retention&quot;&gt;BrewWiki article on Head Retention&lt;/a&gt;. The main methods are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The use of body and head enhancing malts such as crystal, wheat, or carafoam&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The altering of the mash schedule to enhance head retaining proteins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The use of heading agents - additives that enhance head retention&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Addition of high alpha hops - which will increase bitterness, but also increas isohumulones that enhance head retention&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limiting the use of household soaps on drinking glasses and homebrew equipment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The use of a nitrogen and CO2 mix for carbonation and serving&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shape of the glass used to serve the beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-04-21T19:01:49.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1969" CreationDate="2010-04-21T19:58:19.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I do a partial mash, I heat about 3 gallons in my kettle to 155-160˚F. Then I'll put my grains in a grain bag, and leave them in the water for about an hour. Generally, most of your fermentables are coming from the extract. The grains in the partial mash lend mostly color and flavor, and not too much sugar, though they do give some. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After an hour, I'll pull the bag out and pour some sub-boiling water - around 180˚F - over the grains. This is sort of a sparge, but it's pretty weak in terms of sparging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have a wort chiller, I'll then raise the volume of wort the kettle to my desired amount (around 6 gallons), bring to boil, and go on my merry way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as changing the recipe due to extra fermentables, I generally don't really worry about it. Maybe a little less sugar if you've got some really fermentable grains, but I also like big beers :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-04-21T19:58:19.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1975" CreationDate="2010-04-21T20:02:12.407" Score="8" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the shelf life on crushed specialty grains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-04-21T23:48:26.390" LastActivityDate="2010-04-21T23:48:26.390" Title="What's the shelf life on crushed specialty grains?" Tags="|specialty-malt|ingredients|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1973" CreationDate="2010-04-21T20:16:36.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think if you keep them dry, like in a big rubbermaid container, they should be good for a few months. It's best to keep them uncrushed, and then crush when needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-04-21T20:16:36.020" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1973" CreationDate="2010-04-21T22:10:27.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;3 weeks, maybe longer of you keep them in humidity free environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;buy yourself a half pound of crystal 60L.  Tatse it each day for a few weeks.  The crisp crunch will fade soon as the grain sucks up moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-21T22:10:27.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1969" CreationDate="2010-04-21T23:54:46.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like PJs answer, so I'll mention percentages. I think starting at twenty % of the total fermentable is a good place to start.  Then you work up more and more by say 10% at a time as you are comfortable and you equipment allows.  Eventually, you'll be doing 50-60% from the partial mash and you'll be just one step from going around the corner to all-grain brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partial mashing and the percentage of total grist is basically the gateway path to full all grain brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact when I brew I still keep a little DME on hand just in case I miss my OG.  In that case you could actually say I have a 90-95% partial mash with only 5-10% from extract!  I guess you'd call that partial extract.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-21T23:54:46.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2010-04-22T11:55:47.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, a mash-out should be enough. Just hitting a boil is more than enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mashing-out in this case would be key. You'll want to stop all enzymatic activity anyway, so that your wort is stable overnight. This consists of holding the wort at 170°F(76°C) for ten minutes.  Here's a pasteurization curve for milk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKeFR.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKeFR.gif&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nzifst.org.nz/unitoperations/unopsassets/fig6-7.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nzifst.org.nz&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the UK standard, an additional 5°C equates to one order of magnitude reduction in the time necessary to kill.  That is, a pathogen that's killed at 69°C in one minute will die at 64°C in ten minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTST (high-temperature, short time) pasteurization for milk is conducted at 161°F(71°C) for 15-20 &lt;em&gt;seconds&lt;/em&gt;. Mashing out happens at 170°F(76°C) for ten minutes. HTST pasteurization acheives a 5-log, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pasteurization#Pasteurization_of_milk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;99.999% reduction in pathogens&lt;/a&gt;.  By this math, in the first 15 seconds of your mash-out, you're killing ten times as many pathogens as milk pasteurization. If you extend your mash-out to fifteen minutes, you're applying 100 times the thermal killing power that we do to milk. (It should be said, though, that the point of milk pasteurization is to kill pathogens that might harm humans, not to kill bacteria that might contribute to off flavors. But a hundredfold increase is worth something.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get in to the science of it, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.net-lanna.info/food/Articles/11019819.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's a paper on beer pasteurization&lt;/a&gt;, which gets into the survival of various bacteria, including &lt;em&gt;Lactobacillus delbruckii&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People want something easy to remember. &quot;Heat it to boiling and you're fine.&quot; But killing micro-organisms happens over a time-temperature curve, not at a particular temperature. That's why chefs who use the &lt;em&gt;sous vide&lt;/em&gt; method of cooking are able to hold highly spoilage-prone materials like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/culture/lifestyle/magazine/16-03/st_nathan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;beef short rib&lt;/a&gt; at a pathogen-friendly 130°F for &lt;em&gt;36 hours&lt;/em&gt;(!) with no ill effects.  This kind of cooking gives the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nytimes.com/2006/03/09/nyregion/09cook.html?_r=1&amp;amp;scp=1&amp;amp;sq=sous%20vide%20inspector&amp;amp;st=cse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;health inspectors&lt;/a&gt; the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/howling+fantods&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;howling fantods&lt;/a&gt;, but it's not some sort of home-grown wisdom. It's science.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer, a mash-out should be enough. Just hitting a boil is more than enough. In cooling down, you might generate some DMS, but it will be driven off when you re-boil it later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-17T10:41:38.937" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T10:41:38.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3487" CreationDate="2010-04-22T17:08:23.093" Score="1" ViewCount="1043" Body="&lt;p&gt;Listening to an episode of Basic Brewing last night, I heard a guest say that most of the conversion in the mash happens in the first half, and that the mash can thus be cut down as short at 45 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that this would work, especially if you're doing a mini-mash for flavor and it's not life-or-death whether you get the exact right efficiency to hit your target gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the lower limit here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-04-22T19:05:12.410" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T19:06:03.113" Title="What's the minimum mash time?" Tags="|mash|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1979" CreationDate="2010-04-22T17:18:55.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't under stand the second part of the question, so I'll speak to the first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard estimates as early as 20minutes in the mash is converted.  Its a function of temperature too.  So of you are mashing at 158F it goes faster than if you are mashing at 149F.  Of course, trying to do a quick mash at 158F is fine if you are doing something that works with a lot of body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to see this explored more on the homebrew level.  But it requires brewers to be checking for completeness with an iodine test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-22T17:18:55.037" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1991" CreationDate="2010-04-22T18:50:12.297" Score="8" ViewCount="1929" Body="&lt;p&gt;The story is; We have 5-6 home brewer's who will be doing 6 batches of 5 gallon beer. We will be bringing the fermentators/carboys over to my house and re-racking all 30 gallons into a Buffalo Trace whiskey barrel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We plan on aging it for only 3 months then force carbing 15g in Korny kegs for a going away party. Then bottle conditioning the rest of the 15g for all the brewers to take home with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is about the whiskey barrel. It has been sitting dormant for 4 months and I'm not sure how to sanitize it. Should I buy some high abv whiskey and roll it around the barrel or let it sit for several days with whiskey in it? I don't want to use anything that will bleach the taste out of the oak but I don't want our beer to get off flavors because some crazy bacteria is in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried google and searching www.homebrewtalk.com and I haven't found any literature on the matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone can shed some light on the matter it would help us out greatly. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T13:09:55.083" Title="Re-racking in a Buffalo Trace whiskey barrel" Tags="|aging|whiskey|barrels|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1981" CreationDate="2010-04-22T19:09:54.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Send an email to the folks are Russian River.  Tell them your situation and I am sure they'll give you some advice.  You may even get a response from Vinny himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the barrel has been stored dry, you may want to recondition it with some water.  First to make sure its water tight still.  Secondly, if you use boiling water this will help sanitize the barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd look up barrel upkeep and maintenance for how a barrel is supposed to be stored.  Pretty sure you want it wet inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-22T19:09:54.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1964" CreationDate="2010-04-22T20:24:35.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Irish moss and whirlfloc need to be used during rolling boil, and they stick to the proteins. On the other hand, post-boil clarifiers, such as isinglass or gelatin stick to the yeast. If you use them, you should then force carbonate your beer. So it's &quot;no&quot; to both, i suggest you leave 2 weeks in the secondary and your beer will be clear as crystal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-04-22T20:24:35.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1981" CreationDate="2010-04-22T23:45:13.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;See this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1011/keeping-a-barrel&quot;&gt;Keeping a barrel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our club put 55 gallons of Russian Imperial stout in a Merlot barrel a few weeks ago.  We pumped 20 gallons of boiling water into it to sanitize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sent an email to Russian River a few weeks ago.  Here's what Guy, an assistant brewer, said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hi Dean,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We always try to get the wine barrels&#xA;  straight from the winery and fill them&#xA;  as soon as possible.  Sometimes we hot&#xA;  rinse them and sometimes we don't. It&#xA;  depends on the winery, how soon they&#xA;  had been emptied, and what the barrels&#xA;  smell like. If they do sit or seem&#xA;  pretty dry, we use a pressure&#xA;  washer-type device with a jet-like&#xA;  attachment that goes up through the&#xA;  bunghole and we blast hot water into&#xA;  them for 3-5 min.  With the Sudzers&#xA;  barrel we just heated a bunch of water&#xA;  to &quot;sanitizing&quot; temperature and filled&#xA;  it halfway or so, let it sit a bit,&#xA;  then plugged the hole and rolled it&#xA;  over to expose the rest of the barrel&#xA;  to the hot water.  Rinse and repeat as&#xA;  necessary.  Also use your nose to make&#xA;  sure there are no strong&#xA;  acetobacter/vinegar aromas.  We don't&#xA;  use any barrels at RR that have that&#xA;  smell, but we rarely get any that do&#xA;  because they don't sit long.  We also&#xA;  fill them with warm water to allow the&#xA;  wood to expand and look for any leaks&#xA;  before filling. Even if they do leak a&#xA;  little...or a lot...letting them soak&#xA;  for a day or two and keeping them&#xA;  topped up usually cures it.  We don't&#xA;  use any chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Good luck,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Guy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T13:09:55.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1981" CreationDate="2010-04-23T00:28:22.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I emailed Russian river, Avery, Boulevard, The Breury, and Lost Abbey&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Vinnie at Russian River&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first thing you’ll need to do is&#xA;  make sure the barrel is water tight,&#xA;  try cold water first, after that if it&#xA;  still leaks you’ll need to revert to&#xA;  hot water, the hotter the water the&#xA;  more flavor will leach out so start&#xA;  with warm water and work your way up&#xA;  with the temperature of the water.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  At that point, let the barrel dry and&#xA;  smell it, if it smells clean than move&#xA;  forward.  If it smells off, you most&#xA;  likely won’t get the off character out&#xA;  of the wood as it is porous.   Good&#xA;  luck,   Vinnie&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Tyler King at the Breury&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hey Derrick,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4 months is a long time for a barrel&#xA;  to sit empty. You have two major&#xA;  issues at hand; if the barrel was&#xA;  stored empty it will most likely not&#xA;  hold any liquid (it will leak from the&#xA;  staves and heads), secondly, if there&#xA;  is any bacteria or wild yeast in the&#xA;  wood there's nothing you can do.&#xA;  Before you fill the barrel you will&#xA;  want to soak it with water to make&#xA;  sure it will hold your product. You&#xA;  can fill the barrel up with warm water&#xA;  and let it sit till it seals (this&#xA;  will strip flavor from the barrel) or&#xA;  you can turn the barrel on its heads&#xA;  and soak it with water (flipping the&#xA;  barrel and soaking the other head&#xA;  every other day) till it is sealed&#xA;  from the outside in (this is what I&#xA;  do.)  Once the barrel is sealed you&#xA;  can fill it. You can't effectively&#xA;  sanitize a barrel, if anything is&#xA;  living in it - it WILL be in your&#xA;  product! Any intelligent brewer who&#xA;  has worked with enough oak barrels to&#xA;  know will tell you this, you cannot&#xA;  kill all of the microbes living in the&#xA;  wood. I personally don't sanitize any&#xA;  oak barrel before I fill it, if the&#xA;  barrel has a funky smell and/or look&#xA;  it is made into a planter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Tomme Arthur at Lost Abbey&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Derrick&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Thanks for the email about the barrel you guys are planning on filling. If the barrel is &gt;new and has been bunged for the 4 months, you shouldn't have any issues with stability &gt;(alcohol in the wood is still present and a great sanitizer).  If you're concerned about &gt;the barrel condition, you can always roll a bit of bourbon around to wet the wood on the &gt;inside.  My one concern would be the taughtness of the barrel and how tight the seal &gt;between the stave is.  If it were me, I'd roll the whiskey around just to get an idea of &gt;how well the barrel is sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Good luck and best wishes on an amazing beer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tomme Arthur&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastEditorUserId="350" LastEditDate="2010-04-23T18:09:47.550" LastActivityDate="2010-04-23T18:09:47.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-04-23T00:47:48.510" Score="4" ViewCount="1170" Body="&lt;p&gt;is it possible to brew beer using cilantro?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="diane paige" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T07:53:18.257" Title="possible to brew beer with cilantro?" Tags="|brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1994" CreationDate="2010-04-23T00:59:28.057" Score="5" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might want to do a sour mash, if it's easy. How's it done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-04-23T19:07:25.443" Title="How do I do a sour mash?" Tags="|mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1987" CreationDate="2010-04-23T01:03:27.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible, but cilantro's flavor relies on several very volatile flavor compounds. If you end up with the wrong ones, you might end up with a soapy beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nytimes.com/2010/04/14/dining/14curious.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Harold McGee's article from yesterday's New York Times&lt;/a&gt; about the various flavor compounds and how they affect taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be very careful about this. As a cook, I'm generally very careful with cilantro for anything but fresh use.  If I knew that my drinkers were cool with cilantro flavor, I'd only &quot;dry-hop&quot; with fresh cilantro, and only for a day at most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-04-23T01:03:27.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2010-04-23T09:15:48.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use acidulated malt (Sauermalz) to adjust the pH of your mash. That is a Pilsener-type malt that is put in contact with lactic acid before kiln-drying. I am not sure it will make your mash really sour but it will definitely help you to lower the pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastActivityDate="2010-04-23T09:15:48.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1981" CreationDate="2010-04-23T14:50:06.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry just got to this. Looks like you have some great info from some of the best people who would know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you have this barrel for 4 months or you got it after it was sitting for 4 months? Either way for future reference. If you aren't going to use a barrel for a few months you need to either burn a sulfur stick in it or fill it with a sulfur solution. This will help keep the barrel from getting funky. You always want to keep the barrel sealed tightly with a wooden bung. If its only a few weeks just burning the sulfur stick and sealing it will be fine any longer than that you want to fill it with the solution, that way it keeps the barrel conditioned and keep it from leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, out homebrew club is about to fill a 60gal used Merlot barrel in a similar fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Jeff Porn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="327" LastActivityDate="2010-04-23T14:50:06.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1968" CreationDate="2010-04-23T16:00:44.703" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the pubs the creamy nead is achieved through the CO2/Nitrigen gas mix as mentioned already. It is also achieved by using a stout tap. A stout tap is similar in all respects to a regular tap, however the one significant difference is that inserted into the tap is a small disk that diffuses the beer through a number of small holes around the perimeter of the disk, this allows the beer to cascade through the disk, thus helping to make the creamy head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="543" LastActivityDate="2010-04-23T16:00:44.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2010-04-23T19:07:25.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make a mash with the base grains and hold the temp at 100F-110F for 1-3 days.  Preferably you want to cover the top of the mash with some plastic wrap as the Lactobacillus prefers oxygen free environments.  Inevitably there will be some permeation of O2 into the top of the mash, that will promote the growth of pedio and some others and it will smell horrible.  You can scoop the first inch or two out to not add that to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people mash a small portion till its really sour, then add it to a larger mash at brew day.&#xA;Its a personal preference thing and there are a couple ways to get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-23T19:07:25.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-04-23T19:31:11.160" Score="14" ViewCount="19061" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience and recommendations for a good fridge/freezer for conversion into a kegerator?  I'm basically choosing between a full sized fridge, a mini-fridge and a chest freezer.  I'll likely start by using it just as a fridge for kegs and lagering and one day make the kegerator conversion.  My priorities are to be efficient, fit at least 2 5 gallon soda kegs, cost-effective and not completely unsightly.  Here is what I already know....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full size fridge seems a little big for my needs, I live in an apt and would rather not have an additional full refrigerator/freezer.  I have no yard, garage or basement to stash it.  The advantage is they are abundant and cheap on craigslist (although most are not in great condition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mini fridge seems popular and there are some good conversion tutorials online.  Unfortunately when I go looking I rarely see any that would actually work.  Either they are very small or contain bulky freezer boxes or crispers that get in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chest freezer seem perfect, aside from being a freezer.  The inside is large and open and they are relatively cheap and compact.  I own a temperature controller but have never used it.  Will the constant turning on and off of the freezer damage the compressor?  How often should I expect it to flick on and off, is it annoying?  My fear is I'll go away and come back to find either the compressor died or the controller did and the beer is either warm or frozen solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any and all experience welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:38:07.467" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T17:44:55.570" Title="Choosing a good refrigerator/freezer for kegerator conversion" Tags="|equipment|kegging|kegerator|temperature-control|refrigerator|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1995" CreationDate="2010-04-23T21:48:28.280" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have converted all three at one time or another and am currently using a chest freezer for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chest freezers are larger inside. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chest freezers are better insulated and use less energy. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current kegerator is the smallest chest freezer I could find at Lowes. It fits 3 soda kegs and a 5lb CO2 cylinder. My taps are on the front of the freezer. The Johnson Controls  thermostat/controller has a 3 degree set-point which essentially means it needs to get 3 degrees warmer than my set point to activate the compressor which significantly reduces the on/off cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently helped a friend convert a mini fridge from Sears to do the same thing. It has a stainless steel door and so looked better in his bar. To modify it we had to gently bend he ice box which contains all the cooling tubes into a flat plate and bend it down to the back of the refrigerator but it works fine and fits two kegs and a 5lb CO2 cylinder. Do this manipulation before you turn it on as the materials are more flexible when they are warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A used refrigerator was my first experiment and you have to be careful about a couple of things. Firstly, they are quite inefficient as there tends to be a lot of airspace, the compressor is less efficient and the door it not as well insulated. Also if you put the taps in the wall instead of the door, you need to be careful to avoid the cooling lines embedded in the insulation. The same applies to the chest freezer but the taps tend to be near the edges whereas the lines tend to be a few inches in front he edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside with the chest freezer is needing to lift the kegs above shoulder height to drop them in and they are comparatively harder to clean as you end up leaning into them over the lip and the temperature range is quite prone to mold. No issue to your kegged beer but a little scary to look at for the uninitiated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastEditorUserId="435" LastEditDate="2010-04-27T17:09:16.173" LastActivityDate="2010-04-27T17:09:16.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1995" CreationDate="2010-04-24T11:06:34.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jim makes good comments.  Especially regarding chest freezer efficiency at staying cold, even when open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll add that I like a standing fridge for ease of loading and unloading. However, its tough sometimes to reach in and add/remove the connectors from the top of the kegs.  Unless you have a full standing fridge (without a freezer portion) it got a little annoying if a connector gets stuck you have to pull the whole thing out.  Often your lines get tangled.  The other thing is that if you have a standard fridge with freezer above, you need to mount the faucets at a weird height sometimes if you want to use tall tap handles.  Otherwise they'll interfere with the freezer door if you need to get in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chest freezer is easy to deal with lines and connectors.  Using a wooden collar makes attaching faucets a breeze and allows a bit of opportunity for style points.  The down side is lifting kegs in and out however.  And they also tend to collect moisture in the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a chest freezer set up now and prefer it to the standing fridge kegorator I used to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-24T11:06:34.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2007" CreationDate="2010-04-26T01:01:24.923" Score="3" ViewCount="1812" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I start planning my pico brewery, I've been thinking about fermenters. I'd love some thoughts on ways to ferment 1/2 and 1bbl (15.5 - 31 gallon) batches. Options for when price is and is not a concern would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-04-27T17:32:10.517" Title="Fermenting 1/2bbl and 1bbl batches" Tags="|fermentation|large-batch|equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2009" CreationDate="2010-04-26T03:11:30.417" Score="3" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one wanted to buy homebrew equipment in bulk, is there a way to go straight to the distributor? Bypass the LHBS / Northern Brewer / etc., and buy straight from the supplier? IF so, does anyone know who the main suppliers are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T18:00:07.567" Title="Buying equipment in bulk" Tags="|bulk|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1998" CreationDate="2010-04-26T17:45:43.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Sanke keg for fermenting my 10-15gal batches, works great. You can also look into using plastic conical fermentors. You can get them in 15-500+gal sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25197&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25197&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tank-depot.com/product.aspx?id=854&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tank-depot.com/product.aspx?id=854&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at getting a 15gal and a 65gal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="327" LastActivityDate="2010-04-26T17:45:43.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2010-04-26T20:57:53.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In one of the Basic Brewing Radio podcasts I listened to recently, John Palmer mentioned making an American lager with &quot;corn meal right off the shelf&quot; as an adjunct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were in a pinch, I'd rather use corn meal than a breakfast cereal, which has dozens of ingredients, including &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butylated_hydroxytoluene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;butylated hydroxytoluene&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, actually making applejack with Apple Jacks® could be fun. And what better way to get that characteristic fruity, estery aroma into your ESB than Froot Loops®?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In case it sounds like I'm being sarcastic, I'm not. An ESB &quot;dry-hopped&quot; with Froot Loops® sounds like just the thing to stick it to people who take their beer too seriously.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-04-28T14:57:08.620" LastActivityDate="2010-04-28T14:57:08.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2006" CreationDate="2010-04-27T16:51:34.240" Score="7" ViewCount="12973" Body="&lt;p&gt;What equipment is required to clean and fill a commercial keg (not one adapted for homebrewing), before paying for a full blown keg washer and filler? Is this even possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T13:06:06.977" Title="How do you clean and fill a keg manually?" Tags="|keg|cleaning|process|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2003" CreationDate="2010-04-27T17:06:41.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could fill it through a regular sanke coupler.  You'd have to remove the check valve and then connect connect whatever device you use to get the beer out of your fermenter.  For example an auto-siphon with a tailpiece on the other end of the tubing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clean it, you probably want to remove the spear, which takes some tools.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/search/103439/beerwinecoffee/coffeewinebeer/Sanke_Keg_Accessories&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even then if would be difficult to visually inspect that all surfaces are clean.  All in all kind of a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastActivityDate="2010-04-27T17:06:41.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2003" CreationDate="2010-04-27T17:20:31.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't found removing the spear to be too much of a problem once you depressurize it (screwdriver in a rag pushed down on the ball) remove the circlip it just lifts right out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are only using it for bright beer (i.e. not fermenting in it) I would think you could get it reasonably clean by just boiling a small amount of water and PBW inside it although Jimmy is right that inspecting it will be a problem. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewershardware.com/American-Sanke-Keg-Fermenter-Kit-with-Thermowell.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewers hardware&lt;/a&gt; (link no longer available June 2021) has a great sanke conversion kit for making into a fermenter and discusses cleaning on the linked page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite all this. I still think the cornelius soda keg is the way to go for home brewing. Six to the bbl, easy to clean, cheap to obtain and easy to move when full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use converted Sanke kegs for my HLT, MLT and BK and love them but will stick with Cornies for packaging and dispensing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastEditorUserId="19306" LastEditDate="2021-06-22T13:06:06.977" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T13:06:06.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1998" CreationDate="2010-04-27T17:32:10.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ferment 10gal batches in a 14gal conical but have been looking at this kit from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewershardware.com/American-Sanke-Keg-Fermenter-Kit-with-Thermowell.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewers Hardware&lt;/a&gt; recently to add some capacity at a better price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The single 1bbl vessel .v. two 1/2bbl vessels is not going to affect yeast pitching quantities, you are just going to take the same original starter and split it between the vessels. The space saving and cleaning labor savings would be quite significant over the long run though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you start modeling your production expenses, you will quickly see that at pico brewery scale, labor costs are the most significant component of your costs. This shifts quickly to ingredients and then to energy and space as you move up in scale. Forecast and estimate your production volumes carefully and realistically. You could find that investing in bigger equipment will pay for itself quickly if your brews are in demand quickly. If, that takes longer, then making smaller investments in pilot-scale equipment and brewing more frequently (2-3 batches a day) might make more sense at the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-04-27T17:32:10.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1999" CreationDate="2010-04-27T17:41:54.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Equipment manufacturers use distributors to pass their products onto consumers as they are focused on R&amp;amp;D, manufacturing and quality management, not customer service. With a few exceptions, like Dell and Apple in the PC arena, suppliers will not sell direct to consumers for a number of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Agreements with their distributors, prevent them from doing this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tax and liability issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Customers services, single unit shipping, returns, payments etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if you are going to make repeated bulk purchases, many suppliers are willing to make you a distributor of their products and will set you up as a company/trade account. Implied in this are that you will probably require a business tax id and an ability to receive freight at your property (16-wheeler friendly and possibly a dock).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are just looking for a discount. I would suggest approaching LHBS or Northern Brewer about a trade account and discuss discounts with them while you are on the phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-04-27T17:41:54.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2003" CreationDate="2010-04-28T12:47:48.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd look into making a homemade version of a spray ball or wand, that you can insert in the keg.  Having it recirculate wash solution inside there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the more diligent you are about cleaning the keg after its empty the easier it is to clean.  For the most part a seal keg just needs a good rinse with cleaner and sanitizer.  Because there should be nothing but liquid remaining.  Of course if you aren't filtering the beer then you are more likely to get some beer stone in there to clean out too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the interest of cost, most small scale start up breweries get good with fabrication in their own shop.  This is a must if you can't afford to by pre-made and designed pro-grade equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-28T12:47:48.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2012" CreationDate="2010-04-28T12:54:13.220" Score="7" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone have a good source for getting smaller versions of a firkin for home use?&#xA;I am interested in casking some beer at home for parties and special occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good links out there for using a corny keg as a cask?&#xA;I am thinking of doing gravity feeding as I don't want to invest in a proper beer engine to pull beer up through a tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T23:45:35.923" Title="Cask beer at home" Tags="|packaging|techniques|equipment|keg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2011" CreationDate="2010-04-28T13:49:57.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK we have access to 5L mini-kegs -&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Easy_Kegs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Easy_Kegs.html&lt;/a&gt; I don't know if you can get these in the States or not, but they're prefect for parties. Or if you want something a bit bigger, then there are things like -&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.barleybottom.com/menu/product/&amp;amp;ID=204&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.barleybottom.com/menu/product/&amp;amp;ID=204&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2010-04-28T13:49:57.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2011" CreationDate="2010-04-28T16:28:06.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.partypig.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Party Pig&lt;/a&gt;?  I've never used one, but it looks like it would be a good alternative.  They make it sound like each one holds a little over 2 gallons, so I'm not sure if they would be big enough for you, but it's an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-04-28T16:28:06.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4942" CreationDate="2010-04-28T17:49:38.630" Score="8" ViewCount="3020" Body="&lt;p&gt;When folks legally acquire Sanke kegs for conversion to kettles, mash tuns or HLTs, the first step is often to relieve the pressure inside the keg before dismantling the spear and valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How best is this accomplished without kegging beer all over the place and yourself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:17:45.413" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:17:45.413" Title="How do you degas an empty Sanke Keg?" Tags="|beer|equipment|kegging|cider|keg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2015" CreationDate="2010-04-28T17:55:31.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always find it funny to watch videos of people doing this with the keg upright.  Many people use a screwdriver and a rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to take a scrap piece of wood and drive a drywall screw into it, leaving about 1 inch exposed above the wood.  I turn the keg over and put the ball valve right on the screw and push down. The upside down part works best because any beer in the keg doesn't also come rushing out the dip tube.  The beer (often stale and nasty) stays in the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a fair amount of beer in the keg still, you may need to degas more than once depending on how quick you are at dismantling the valve/spear.  If you take to long the beer will be de-carbing and re-pressurize the keg somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-28T17:55:31.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2015" CreationDate="2010-04-28T18:06:47.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use a Sanke keg coupler, but then that's because I own one.  There is a ring you can pull to relieve the pressure:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/kegging/commercial-keg-couplers/american-sankey-tap.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/kegging/commercial-keg-couplers/american-sankey-tap.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's good to have one if you keg your homebrew.  There are kits you can get to make the fittings compatible with a corny keg and CO2 tank setup.  I actually hooked mine up with the same quick disconnect posts that my corny kegs use so I can go from a homebrew to a commercial keg with ease (when I'm that well stocked, that is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what my setup looks like:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/ball-lock-sankey-adapter-152733/#post1759749&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/ball-lock-sankey-adapter-152733/#post1759749&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastEditorUserId="412" LastEditDate="2010-04-28T18:12:38.770" LastActivityDate="2010-04-28T18:12:38.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-04-29T15:09:31.697" Score="6" ViewCount="2029" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering I have all the necessary - and some unnecessary - equipment for making beer at home, what additional equipment do I need to make wine at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's easier to just make a full list, what equipment is necessary to make wine at home, and which items differ from making beer at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is a community wiki. No one will get reputation for questions or answers. The best answer, created by the community, should have the most votes.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-05-03T21:20:59.097" Title="[Wiki] What extra equipment do I need to make wine?" Tags="|equipment|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-04-29T15:09:31.697" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2020" CreationDate="2010-04-29T15:50:10.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my wife started to look into wine making after I had been brewing for many years, my local shop owner recommended I get a new carboy for the wine making separate from my beer stuff.  I didn't quite understand why though, as I had some disbelief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I don't think you need any extra equipment to ferment.&#xA;To bottle you'll likely need either a corker or use screw on wine bottles and caps.&#xA;I think that's it equipment wise.  There may be some more reagents needs for pH or stabilization factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-04-29T15:50:10.390" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-04-29T15:50:10.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2026" CreationDate="2010-04-29T18:20:42.630" Score="8" ViewCount="511" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can do a full wort boil with extracts is it still beneficial to be adding extract late to avoid color changes and the like?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What would happen to hop utilization with extract late in a full boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T12:28:16.563" Title="Extract late with a full boil?" Tags="|extract|techniques|boil|color|hop-utilization|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2238" CreationDate="2010-04-29T18:22:41.677" Score="5" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;If after an extended lagering period there is fear of not having enough healthy yeast available for carbonation, how much yeast should be added back?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What is the easiest form to use, dry or liquid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-02-07T14:46:30.717" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T01:32:20.340" Title="How much yeast to add back after extended lagering?" Tags="|carbonation|yeast|packaging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2025" CreationDate="2010-04-29T18:26:35.543" Score="8" ViewCount="674" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is making a starter a good idea when using a larger activator pack from Wyeast?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Should you smack the packet and add it to the starter, or add it after it swells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="2377" LastEditDate="2015-01-19T19:09:41.730" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T19:09:41.730" Title="Starter and smack-packs" Tags="|yeast|techniques|starter|smack-pack|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2024" CreationDate="2010-04-29T19:04:17.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Making a starter is generally a good idea&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;It doesn't really matter when you add the contents&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the same process going on in the pack as in the starter.  The smack pack contains some sugars and a little yeast nutrient, making it essentially a starter on it's own.  It will get you to about the half number of cells needed for a 5 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-04-29T19:04:17.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2022" CreationDate="2010-04-29T19:16:03.423" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most recipes are formulated for full wort, full gravity boils.  Reserving extract would increase your hop utilization and the beer would be slightly, but probably not noticeably, lighter.  Make your own decision about the benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-04-29T19:16:03.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-04-29T21:21:46.547" Score="3" ViewCount="817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading some forums on probrewer.com, and there seems to be a consensus that bottle conditioned beer lasts longer than force carbonated beer. Why would that be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-12-23T18:53:52.630" LastActivityDate="2010-12-23T18:53:52.630" Title="How does the carbonation method affect shelf life?" Tags="|carbonation|conditioning|shelf-life|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2024" CreationDate="2010-04-30T14:37:11.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is not quite a &quot;yes&quot; or a &quot;no&quot;. The smack pack contains a yeast nutrient that actually transforms the pack in a starter. You should let the pack swell before you use it, because that's the sign that the yeast has metabolised the nutrients, and, air being absent, has used the energy to grow in cell number. This takes about 24 hours. A &lt;strong&gt;Wyeast &quot;propagator&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; is enough for a 2.5 gallon batch, so you need an extra &quot;normal&quot; starter to use it for a 5 gallon batch. A &lt;strong&gt;Wyeast &quot;activator&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; on the other hand, is suitable for a 5 gallon batch without the extra &quot;normal&quot; starter. You can always make a starter from an activator if you want to use it for a 10 gallon batch, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-04-30T14:37:11.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2027" CreationDate="2010-04-30T18:33:32.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like a bit of a tempest in a teapot to me. Here are my thoughts, assuming an environment that is a cool constant temperature, dark, and dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of beers, especially those brewed with spices and typical alcohol content, actually begin to lose flavor over time.  These beers will have well passed their peak and declined considerably in flavor before it will go bad in the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beers that benefit from long aging generally are highly hopped or have high alcohol content or both.  The chance that those will go bad is low as well because of the preservative properties of the hops and alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there is a tendency to equate beer with wine when it comes to aging in a cellar. Some aging is necessary with beer, especially at higher ABV.  But its not wine, its not scotch.  Its not meant to last for a decade in the bottle.  I think that's where discussions like this come from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if having naturally carbonated (and the associated lees) will make a beer last less time or not.  It's academic anyway, you shouldn't be keeping the beer that long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contend that with the properties of alcohol and hops plus good sanitization that the beer's flavor will fade long before it goes bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-04-30T18:33:32.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2032" CreationDate="2010-04-30T19:27:37.147" Score="1" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone know the outcome of the Basic Brewing Radio yeast contact time experiment, where they asked people to let their beers sit on the yeast for four weeks?  I can't seem to get the podcast out of iTunes and I'm trying to plan my brewing schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-05-01T16:06:29.057" Title="Yeast Contact Time Experiment Results" Tags="|secondary|experiments|racking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2030" CreationDate="2010-04-30T21:05:30.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This link has some detailed results from the experiment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/component/resource/article/1960-byo-and-basic-brewing-radio-experiment-does-delayed-racking-harm-your-beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.byo.com/component/resource/article/1960-byo-and-basic-brewing-radio-experiment-does-delayed-racking-harm-your-beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consensus seems to be that 2 to 4 weeks on the yeast in primary doesn't harm the flavor, but it does have a moderate (not negative, per say) effect on the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-04-30T21:05:30.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2030" CreationDate="2010-05-01T02:39:06.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never understood the point of that experiment.  2 extra weeks is nothing.  I know many brewers who routinely leave beer on yeast for 2-4 weeks with no ill effects.   Nor is there any difference between the 2 and 4 week beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they really wanted to see if there was an issue they should have really turned up the time.  Like 6 weeks extra. Or asked the question, &quot;How long does it take to get autolysis?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast autolysis is a left over myth form the days when dried yeast was always mildly contaminated and no one did a starter.  Everyone was underpitching unhealthy yeast in those days and thats where autolysis fears and cider flavors first came from. Today, even pitching only one vial of whitelabs won't lead to autolysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I am saying is that its not much on an experiment when the conditions exist in normal practice already.  I enjoy the Basic Brewing Radio podcasts, but these BYO collaborations are sometimes just a little shy of being completely thought out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-05-01T16:06:29.057" LastActivityDate="2010-05-01T16:06:29.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2034" CreationDate="2010-05-01T11:29:53.857" Score="4" ViewCount="350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently had some problems with my false bottom and want to experiment with a mash screen. This might be a bit of a stupid question but I have never used one before:&#xA;Can you do the mashing with the screen already mounted or do you have to fill the mash onto the screen in a second tun? My worries is that when you are heating the mash, the mash underneath the screen won't be moved and hence possibly burn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastActivityDate="2010-05-04T12:30:18.860" Title="Use of a mash screen" Tags="|equipment|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2033" CreationDate="2010-05-01T13:11:48.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a false bottom you may want to try this out if you are getting a screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wort.org/diy/36-howto-diy-false-bottom-mash-filter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Screen Mounted on false bottom&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method helps to improve the filterability of the false bottom.  THis way you can mount it all at once, mash on top and not have to move to a laughter tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to rig something up to mash and lauter in the same vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;EDIT: based on new info from question/comments.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BAZOOKA SCREEN&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SO NO a bazooka screen can't be used in a direct fired mash tun set up.  Its very likely you'll burn the mash, unless you stir like crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend you try mounting a bazooka screen under your false bottom. The FB will give you large particle filtration and the Bazooka will take care of smaller particles that make it under the FB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really having a problem with the false bottom and stuck sparges, I'd recommend looking at your crush.  The crush might be too fine and you are getting some clogging.  A second approach would be to toss in a half pound or so of rice hulls to improve the lauterin efficiency of the grain bed itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-05-04T12:30:18.860" LastActivityDate="2010-05-04T12:30:18.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2036" CreationDate="2010-05-02T11:26:54.583" Score="7" ViewCount="3074" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does using gelatin effect aromatics or flavor appreciably?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading this post about &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/518/gelatin-for-clearer-beer&quot;&gt;using gelatin&lt;/a&gt;.  I have one keg that I use as a cold conditioning vessel (sort of like secondary), and I was going to try experimenting with gelatin for a few beers to see if I liked the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts on the negative, if any, impact of gelatin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T18:02:05.017" Title="Detriment of gelatin fining on flavor or aroma" Tags="|techniques|secondary|clarity|fining|gelatin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2035" CreationDate="2010-05-02T13:08:30.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no real drawbacks that I know of.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's odorless, translucent, and very nearly tasteless.  I've used it as a fining agent in my secondary.  It does the job a bit better than a cold crash does to drop fine particulates out of solution.  You can make some nice clear beer with a gelatin fining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I've had any problem is when I didn't prepare the gelatin properly, per the instructions on the box.  Then I got some gelatin chunks on the bottom of my fermenter.  Not a big deal, but irritating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-05-02T13:08:30.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2010-05-02T16:36:10.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spray the bottles with some Purple Power industrial degreaser then just run them in the dishwasher. Gets the labels off every time, just remember to remove the labels from the drain of the dishwasher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="AJ" LastActivityDate="2010-05-02T16:36:10.540" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-05-02T16:36:10.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2038" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-05-02T18:25:23.773" Score="10" ViewCount="26722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottled my first home made wine last week. It's an apple wine that didn't turn out so well. The good news is that I think I know most of the reasons it isn't very good and I'm going to try again with a rhubarb wine soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the big mistakes I made was not degassing the wine enough. The finished product has nearly carbonated, harsh taste and when i pour it there are large bubbles at the top of the glass. I degassed by hand and only stirred for a few minutes so I'm certain it wasn't enough. The question though, is how do I determine that I have degassed the wine sufficiently, and what's the best method for doing this without buying expensive tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:54:02.047" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T03:49:40.540" Title="How can I tell when wine has finished degassing?" Tags="|wine|degassing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-05-02T18:38:15.613" Score="13" ViewCount="17787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a log sheet to use to start tracking all the beer and wine I brew to (hopefully) improve the results over time. What's your favorite and what could be improved in it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-05-03T01:55:03.297" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T15:27:31.770" Title="What is the best brewing log sheet to use?" Tags="|log|consistency|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2020" CreationDate="2010-05-02T23:36:54.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends a bit on the kind of wine you're making.  I can only speak from my own experience making Pinot Noir and Chardonnay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need a grape press.  Some homebrew shops sell these, and some also rent them.  With Pinot, you will de-stem the grapes and ferment the whole berries, punching them down gently with a punch down tool several times per day to mash things up a bit.  But when the fermentation is done, you'll need to press the rest of the juice off the skins and seeds into...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A barrel.  I've made home wine with oak chips in a carboy, but if you want to do things right you'll need to invest in a barrel.  The Beverage People in Santa Rosa sell 5, 10, 13 and 30 gallon reconditioned French Oak barrels.  I think I paid $275 for a 15gal last year and it's working nicely to age a bit of leftover commercial chardonnay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're making cab, merlot, petit sirah, syrah, zin, etc you'll want to crush the fruit before you press it.  You can buy mini crusher/destemmers to simplify this process.  Or you can just stomp the grapes in a bin.  Having a big fat Italian woman to do this helps a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Chardonnay, you'll press the fruit before you ferment it, eliminating the need for the punch down tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good pH meter is a must-have.  You need one that reads down the the 100ths because there's a big difference between a pinot with a 3.6 pH and a 3.69 pH.  It's important to keep your pH in the safe range when fermenting because...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...You're not going to be fermenting in a carboy with an airlock.  We open ferment our wines in a big plastic bin.  If your must is fermenting at too high a pH, spoilage bacteria can thrive in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breather bungs for your barrel.  When you press your wine to a barrel, it's still going to need to go through a secondary fermentation, called malolactic fermentation.  Gas needs to be able to escape.  I suppose you could use an airlock for this, but we use breather bungs at the winery.  You'll also need a solid bung for aging your wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gallon jugs.  You'll need some gallon jugs with airlocks for leftover &quot;topping&quot; wine.  You'll need to periodically top off your barrel to make sure your wine doesn't oxidize, and you'll need some containers for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned before, you'll need a corker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some winemakers like to stir the lees back into the wine from time-to-time.  If this is you, you will want a lees stirring tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, most important of all:  a wine thief.  You need to be able to taste your wine as it ages!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mini bottling line would help a lot-- something with a catch basin in it and a shut off to prevent overflows.  This way you can hoist your barrel up and gravity feed the basin while you're bottling.  Speaking of gravity-fed bottling lines, here's a photo of ours this spring...  yikes!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.me.com/ro/iluminada/Galleries/100031/Gravity%20feed/web.jpg?ver=12728432490001&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;alt text http://www.me.com/ro/iluminada/Galleries/100031/Gravity%20feed/web.jpg?ver=12728432490001&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's about all I can think of right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-05-02T23:36:54.587" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-05-02T23:36:54.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2039" CreationDate="2010-05-02T23:49:49.000" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;THe best log sheet is which ever one you WILL use regularly.  I have brewed some great beer in the past and I never took andy good notes on certain batches unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think however, the best log sheet is one you make yourself; customized to the way you brew and what you think is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing for 10 years and I don't think I have ever really seen a good one I liked for my process on-line somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend looking at a few online and then picking features you like the best from each one.  I used to print my recipes on my brew sheets, then after using brewing software I started to just print the recipe and remedial brewing session info (e.g. calculated strike water temps) and using a homemade check list for capturing notes and changes in the planned process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com/brewing-log-sheet/109&quot;&gt;my log sheet&lt;/a&gt; at my blogsite if you want to look at one to get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-02T23:49:49.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2039" CreationDate="2010-05-03T02:00:16.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started off using ProMash until switching to a Mac.  Then I kept handwritten records.  Now I use &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://basicbrewingshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=1&amp;amp;products_id=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the brewer's logbook&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hopville&lt;/a&gt; is okay for recipes, but not adapted for brewing sessions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-05-03T02:00:16.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2047" CreationDate="2010-05-03T20:07:39.287" Score="9" ViewCount="5780" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I lager in a spare Corny keg in the back of my kegerator?  Can I then serve directly from that keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-05-03T21:04:00.843" Title="Lagering in corny kegs?" Tags="|lagering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2046" CreationDate="2010-05-03T21:04:00.843" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well yes and no.  Allow me to elaborate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you certainly can lager in a Corny keg.  That is my primary method of lagering.  It works great.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one thing, however.  I cut the beverage dip tube in the Corny keg to prevent it from sitting directly in the collected yeast that falls out during lagering.  If you don't cut the dip tube, you will get a TON of yeast on transfer to a serving keg or during the first half dozen pours.  Not tasty or pretty.  Lagers are usually so nice and clear and pretty that it would be a shame to have all that yeast in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue with doing it in your kegerator is the temperature movement required for lagering i.e. the constant drop by 1 degree a day until achieving lagering temperature would then effect all of the beer in your kegerator.  Final lagering temperature is usually much colder than serving temperature, but I will admit that serving temperature is a personal matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to serving directly out of the lagering keg, (even with a cut dip tube) I wouldn't do it for the reasons I listed above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made up a quick transfer line that allows me to move the finished beer out of the lager keg into a serving keg, and that leaves behind the yeast cake.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I push it with CO2 and just hook up a picnic tap to the gas in side of the serving keg.  That means the entire operation is sealed and the gasses in the serving keg have somewhere to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to cut a dip tube, remember to file it smooth for easy re-insertion.  I cut mine on a forty-five degree angle, about 2.5 to 3 inches from the bottom.  Cutting wheel on a Dremel tool does the job nicely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't lager in my kegerator, I lager in a small chest freezer that I have a temperature controller on.  I got the little freezer for free and added the temp controller, that works well for me. Since I don't serve out of it, I didn't need to collar it. YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-05-03T21:04:00.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2020" CreationDate="2010-05-03T21:20:59.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most starter equipment kits contain the following:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;7.5 gallon plastic fermenter with lid&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;6 gallon glass carboy&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;stoppers for each fermenter&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;airlock for carboy&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;bottle brush&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;hydrometer&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;sanitizer&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;corker&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;corks&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;racking tube&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;siphon tubing&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;bottle filler&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;shut-off valve&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Stabilizer&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Sanitizer&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Campden tablets&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Pectic enzyme&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Acid blend&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Grape tannin&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Yeast nutrient&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastActivityDate="2010-05-03T21:20:59.097" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-05-03T21:20:59.097" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2050" CreationDate="2010-05-04T11:15:54.657" Score="5" ViewCount="1711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll start by saying that I've never used liquid yeast before, so it could all be my fault... Anyway, I ordered some Wyeast 1187 Ringwood to use for a Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA clone that I did on Sunday night. I'd stored the yeast in the fridge after unpacking and got it out to warm up while I got all my brew stuff out and organised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After smacking the packet to activate it, I put it to one side and got on with things. After four hours the packet hadn't swelled. So I knocked up a starter solution and poured the contents of the packet into it and left it over night. I the morning there was no sign of activity, so I ended up making another starter with some S-04.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this kind of failure common...? How does everyone else handle their liquid yeast...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-05-04T12:11:51.507" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T00:12:42.963" Title="Wyeast 1187 Ringwood Failure" Tags="|yeast|starter|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2049" CreationDate="2010-05-04T12:11:19.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wyeast packages need overnight at least to swell in my experience.  Even the freshest packages take about 8 hours.  Some part of the 4 hours was spent just getting completely up to room temp.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time you plan to brew with one, take it out the morning of or the night before you plan to brew.  Then it can swell all day or overnight for your night/morning brew session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The activity of your starter with the 1187 is tough to gauge without more details.  Its very well possible that it took off during the night and when you looked at it the next day you missed the active part and mistook it for having failed to start.  The only way to know is to have checked the gravity of the starter.  Secondly, its the size of the starter.  If the starter was fairly small, say &amp;lt;16oz, there really isn't enough sugars in there to make it look like anything happened anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time smack that pack and be more patient, or pitch into a bigger starter, say 1.5L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in the future, if you need to go to dried yeast, just rehydrate it in water and pitch it.  No need to make a starter with dried stuff.  In fact, dried yeast suffers a bit from being put into a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-05-04T13:42:04.803" LastActivityDate="2010-05-04T13:42:04.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2038" CreationDate="2010-05-04T12:19:33.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that a bubbly surface and harsh taste is a signature or inadequate degassing.&#xA;If the wine fermented out to a 12% alcohol product, then fermentation was pretty good.  The yeast would have consumed much of the O2 in the wine after pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps some of the off flavors then is related to fermentation temp or the must itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know a lot about making Apple Wine, but what I know of fermentation itself I can't imagine that degassing is the problem connected to your symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am open to criticism through voting and comments, I could be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-04T12:19:33.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2049" CreationDate="2010-05-04T14:04:51.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The smack-pack is, in fact, some kind of starter. By pitching your yeast in another starter you didn't make much difference comparing to if you had let it in the pack. From my point of you, it appears your yeast had been poorly conditioned, and either needed more time to activate and you were too hasty, or it was dead after all and you had to wait a bit more. Keep in mind that smack-packs need about 24 hours to be ready, while starters may need up to 48. You'll have to program these processes ahead so that the yeast is ready when you get to the pitching step. &#xA;Additionally, never use dry yeast in a starter. Dry yeast is already populated enough to use in a 5-gallon batch. If you make a starter out of dry yeast, and supposedly you don't brew 10-gallon batches, you will overpitch, and that is as dangerous as underpitching (there is a related question, check it out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-05-04T14:04:51.220" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2059" CreationDate="2010-05-04T17:47:24.093" Score="6" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many beers, especially German, are produced with a method called decoction mash. In that, the rising of mash temperature is achieved each time by talking a portion of the MASH, boiling it, and adding it back to the mash tun. This technique is very popular among helles and generally Munich beers and is said to produce a more malty character. Can you achieve the desired results of this technique at home and,thus, is it worth doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-05-04T22:32:36.030" LastActivityDate="2010-05-04T22:38:55.610" Title="Homebrewing: Decoction Mashing" Tags="|mash|techniques|temperature|wort|decoction|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2056" CreationDate="2010-05-04T18:42:01.127" Score="5" ViewCount="547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on getting a dual-tap kegerator.  Is it worth it to pay the extra to dispense two beers at two different pressures?  I can see dispensing a low-carbonation ESB and a high-carbonation weizen side-by-side, but I don't want to go overboard with the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-05-05T13:04:52.283" LastActivityDate="2010-05-05T13:04:52.283" Title="Dispensing beers at two different pressures?" Tags="|kegging|carbonation|techniques|equipment|serving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2055" CreationDate="2010-05-04T20:34:59.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, if you're going to go the distance and convert a fridge, you should do it right and get the dual regulator setup so you can dispense at different pressures.  That is, if cost isn't an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, cost would certainly be an issue for me, and I'm still debating whether or not I should do this, or even bother with converting a fridge at all--the picnic tap works fine for me and quick disconnects make it easy to switch back and forth between my two kegs in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the question is, how often are you going to be pouring?  Do you have a lot of people who come over to drink?  If so, then it might be worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally only pour only a few glasses a night, so switching between kegs is easy enough for me.  But I think that if I were going to convert the fridge into a kegerator, it'd be for the &quot;coolness factor&quot; and I'd want to go all out with all the bells and whistles--including separate regulators for each keg to ensure appropriate carbonation and dispensing pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just my $.02&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastEditorUserId="412" LastEditDate="2010-05-04T20:47:29.410" LastActivityDate="2010-05-04T20:47:29.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2054" CreationDate="2010-05-04T20:45:51.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Decoction mashing evolved in the days before thermometers were invented.  It was a good way to reach appropriate mash temperatures without knowing the specific temperature of the mash.  Those early brewers must have been through much trial and error before they figured out how to make decoction mashing work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many modern commercial breweries still use the technique--but more out of nostalgia than practicality.  I don't think there is any real, scientific evidence that it is any better than step or infusion mashing, despite what the brewers who use the technique and the drinkers who like the beer may say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is plenty of evidence to suggest that the exacting nature of step and infusion mashing yields much more consistent, positive results than decoction mashing.  Also, for the homebrewer, decoction mashing adds layers of unnecessary complexity and hours of time.  Not worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-05-04T20:45:51.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2055" CreationDate="2010-05-04T22:31:05.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only can you dispense at different pressures, you can carbonate beers independently of your dispense pressure.  With a T off of one regulator you can gave your normal serving pressure, then you can use the other side for high pressure quick carbing if necessary on occasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had the funds I'd go with a dual stage set up just for the flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to think about though would be pouring stouts.  If you make stouts (or any style) that you want on nitrogen, maybe investing the money on a nitrogen hook up is a better investment.  Of course that would be more expensive because you'd need the stout faucet too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-04T22:31:05.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2054" CreationDate="2010-05-04T22:38:55.610" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You most certainly can do a decoction at home.  And decoction does more than just increase the temperature of the mash.  The primary reason for it is melanoidin production in the wort.  This creates a complexity of malt flavors in the wort that might not be there otherwise.  I have several friends that have done it.  Watching it being done its not hard, just time consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer the question, yes you can do it at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it, is a matter of preference,  Some folks can't taste a difference. Others not so much.  I think its worth trying in side by side trials to see if it makes a difference to ones individual pallete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-04T22:38:55.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2069" CreationDate="2010-05-05T20:40:00.257" Score="7" ViewCount="1149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to get together the ingredients for making a cherry stout. I am going to add the cherries at flameout, but I have no clue how much to add. I want there to be a solid cherry taste in the stout. I also don't want to misjudge the amount of sugar the fruit will add, since I don't want my stout to end up too strong (ABV wise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much cherries should I add?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="473" LastActivityDate="2010-05-06T12:50:14.267" Title="Cherry Stout advice" Tags="|fruit|stout|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2070" CreationDate="2010-05-05T20:53:05.133" Score="5" ViewCount="3567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a no-rinse iodophor sanitizer both times I've brewed. Both times the beer seems to taste a bit like sanitizer. Is it possible I am using too much sanitizer? The last beer I brewed was an all-grain blonde ale, and I way overshot the OG and ended up with a 8.17 ABV. Could it be the abundance of alcohol that I am tasting instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a plastic food grade bucket as my secondary this time. Before I put the beer in the secondary, I let sanitizer sit in the bucket for about 2 weeks. The beer tastes a bit like a mixture of the sanitizer and that plastic. Maybe I should switch to two glass carboys for primary and secondary, and use less sanitizer? Is it a bad idea to let the sanitizer sit in the fermenters that long?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="473" LastActivityDate="2010-05-06T13:56:26.933" Title="Beer tastes like sanitizer" Tags="|sanitation|taste|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2061" CreationDate="2010-05-05T21:20:07.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest pitfalls and arguments against plastic is the fact that it absorbs flavor. Most sanitizers we use in brewing have about a 30 second contact time. That means that after 30 seconds, the vessel should be sanitized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Sanitizers only work if the thing you're sanitizing is already clean. You can't sanitize soil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, that could very well be why you're tasting plastic and sanitizer. Too much sani shouldn't matter, unless you're not pouring it out... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try glass, or just don't leave the sani in for so long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the high ABV, I doubt that's the issue, though a beer that light in flavor will definitely show off it's alcohol flavor and aroma more than, say, in a stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-05-05T21:20:07.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2060" CreationDate="2010-05-05T21:27:14.103" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no idea on this one.. I'm actually going to ask a question for determining potential gravity of adjuncts. For now, unless someone has a good answer, I'd say see what other recipes are saying online, and build off that. If it's too strong, go lower, and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-05-05T21:27:14.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-05-05T21:28:29.437" Score="4" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you determine the potential gravity of certain ingredients? I'm sure there are charts and the like online, but, let's say you want to use a new fruit in a beer.. What are the steps to determining the potential gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-05-07T18:19:02.763" LastActivityDate="2010-08-12T03:56:44.587" Title="Determining the potential gravity of non-grain additions" Tags="|adjuncts|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2068" CreationDate="2010-05-05T23:41:43.793" Score="3" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really enjoy German Alts as a favorite purchase brew, and as I live in Florida with the lowest ambient temp 72 °F under Air cond., I can't possibly lager without inconvenience.  I have a question for you serious brewers about style and your experience with hops for this brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have on order some Alsacian hops striesspalt, sp? that I think would fit the bill nicely with a Kolsch yeast and 1 lb or so caramunich plus belgian aromatic malt.  I would typically blend German hops for this ale but have found them lacking in consistency of quality in the past, plus the spicy versus green funky for lack of a better description of aroma , varies so much per year and vendor.  Is there a better measure of hop suitibility for the style and do you have some succes stories related per your experience that could help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, Mike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T16:02:24.917" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:02:24.917" Title="Question about Alt/ Kolsch hopping and yeast" Tags="|hops|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2060" CreationDate="2010-05-06T10:44:54.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a definite cherry flavor, you should be using a sour cherry which will have less simple sugars and more unfermentables.  Sweet cherries will ferment out dry and will add to your ABV disproportionate to flavor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pound of cherries can have no more than 1 pound of sugars, obviously.  When using simple sugars, i.e. brown sugar or molasses, etc about a half pound is at the brink of tolerable for an ale by my taste.  Based on the above, my guess would be about a pound, pitted, and softened in a saucepan, less if you're feeling conservative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2010-05-06T10:44:54.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2064" CreationDate="2010-05-06T12:12:58.717" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/655/wiki-how-do-you-calculate-original-gravity&quot;&gt;been answered here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combine one pound of your adjunct with enough water to make 1 gallon. Measure the potential gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-05-06T12:12:58.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2065" CreationDate="2010-05-06T12:38:54.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spalt is a great choice for either an Alt or a Kolsch.  If you want more depth of hop flavors then blending german origin hops would be the way to go, but experiments are necessary to find what you are looking for. I don't think anyone can really help with that, its your pallate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as maybe some of the green funky flavors you are getting.  If you focus more on some slightly higher alpha hops, you'll be able to use less of them.  The green flavors can be related to the vegetal nature of hops.  I know last year there were some Saaz hops floating around that were at &amp;lt;2% alpha.  You would need to use so much of them that you'd start tasting the hop cone (green) and not enough of the hop oils.  So keep alpha acid levels in mind when getting these hops too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if you fear quality issues are why some of the hops you've been using are no good, then I'd find another vendor.  I know everybody wants to support their local shop.  But if your local can't provide top notch ingredients, move on.  Or at least discuss it with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My local shop has some nice folks in it and their fairly well stocked, but the charge about 30% more than everywhere else.  So I tend to shop else where.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-06T12:38:54.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2060" CreationDate="2010-05-06T12:50:14.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My take on this type of question is that you aren't going to get it right the first time, so don't over think it.  If you want to make a &quot;perfect&quot; fruit beer on the first try I say make a great stout and add cherry extract at bottling time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are prepared to deal with the unpredictable, then I would not worry about the sugars in the fruit yet.  Just make the best damn stout you can and add smashed up cherries at flame out. The contribution of sugar from one pound of fruit is going to increase the final ABV by less than 1% point.  Its closer to a half of a point.  So don't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend at least 3 quarts of cherries, maybe even 4 quarts.  I think that sweet cherries have a slightly better aromatic quality for beer, but that's just me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-06T12:50:14.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2061" CreationDate="2010-05-06T13:56:26.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem when I first started.  I found I was adding too much iodophor.  I was told to add until &quot;it looks like apple juice&quot;.  Turns out my mental picture of apple juice is much darker than the LHBS guy's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix your problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Either go with Brewchez's suggestion of half a box of baking soda and soak the bucket overnight, or fill it with HOT water (as hot as my tap provides, maybe 140-150F), and change it out daily for a week (then again, water is dirt cheep in NOVA).  Either way most/all iodine molecules will get soaked out of the bucket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure your sanitizer.  After noodling around the internet it was suggested to me to use 2 caps of iodophor for a 5 gallon bucket.  I will pour into the cap, and keep pouring as I dump the cap and then refill the cap to acount that I'm using a 6.5 gallon carboy.  I have found that the Iodophor still lasts a VERY long time using this method.  I went through 1 bottle in about 3 batches, got this advice, and I'm somewhere around 8 batches on this current bottle and it's maybe 1/3 used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quoth Charlie Papazian, &quot;Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew!&quot;  Iodine is ok to consume as long as you don't do it for extended periods (like use iodine as your water purifying method for all cooking/drinking for years on end).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you have the spare petty cash, PJ's suggestion of going all glass is spot-on.  But make sure to get a good carrying mechanism (I prefer the Brew hauler) and a blow-off tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-05-06T13:56:26.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2072" CreationDate="2010-05-06T14:32:06.540" Score="7" ViewCount="2680" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I'm an extract plus specialty grain brewer.  I want to be an all-grain brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I'm trying to figure out the whole sparging thing.  I know I need more grain to get the same gravity of I batch sparge, but that I'm not in danger of the tannins that continuous sparging has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really understand what to do specifically for batch sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I dump in water and then vorlauf and drain the water, but do I stir up the grain before vorlauf/lautering?  Do I add more water, stir everything up and then let it sit for a while, like a second mash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="160" LastEditDate="2010-11-25T14:30:39.823" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T15:25:28.630" Title="How do I batch sparge?" Tags="|sparge|batch-sparge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2071" CreationDate="2010-05-06T15:25:22.503" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a batch sparger and I love it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address your specific questions.  You do not need to stir up the grain prior to vorlauf.  Just start drawing liquid out the bottom until it seems to run pretty clear.  (And clear means just the large chucks).  After that run all the liquid out of the tun.  I add more water and stir it up.  The stirring is vital at this point to get good exchange of sugar held in the grains into the water as efficiently as possible.  There is no reason to let it sit longer, I start to vorlauf right away until clear again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for volumes, I mash at my desired ratio.  Then I measure how much I collect from the first runnings.  I subtract that from what I want my total boil volume to be and add that volume back into the tun.  I know there is a rule of thumb out there about trying to equalize the volume of each running, but I haven't found it that important. (And neither does Denny Conn, the dude who has really pushed batch sparging into the mainstream).&#xA;For example, if I was planning on getting a 7 gallon wort for my boil, and I draw 3 gallons for my first runnings, I know to add 4 gallons for the second runnings.  Its much easier this way than anticipating what the first volume is, adding water prior to run off to get the same volume for your second run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the link to Denny Conn's &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/&quot;&gt;Batch Sparging&lt;/a&gt; website for reference, but note the changes I mentioned about equalizing the two run offs, isn't his recommended practice anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-06T15:25:22.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2071" CreationDate="2010-05-07T16:09:27.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My previous brewing attempt was my first switch to all-grain brewing, so I was right in your shoes. It turned out great, and was a lot of fun. I made my cooler out of supplies from Home Depot using this video:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftY_HZAFJFc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;How to make a Mash Tun from a cooler&quot;&gt;How to make a Mash Tun from a cooler&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I watched this video:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMHLqnWCNjE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Easy All Grain Brewing - Batch Sparge Method&quot;&gt;Easy All Grain Brewing - Batch Sparge Method&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I compiled these instructions for myself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mashing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat water to 168F. One quart of water per pound of grain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add strike water (initial water) to mash tun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add malted grains and adjuncts and stir them into water thoroughly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure mash temperature stabilizes at about 155F-158F.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close cooler and let it sit for an hour (possibly throw blankets over cooler to keep heat in).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add hose to mash tun valve and let wort run out into a pitcher. Recycle wort back into mash tun until wort is less dark and grainy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow all the wort in the mash tun to run into the boil kettle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sparging&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Estimate how many gallons ended up in the boil pot. Gather enough 170F water to fill the boil pot to 6 gallons (estimate: 4-5 gallons of sparge water for 10-14 pounds of grain).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour the 170F water over the grains in your mash tun evenly, let the wort flow into the boil pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow the boil pot to fill up to 6 gallons. Do not use too much sparge water!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tip is &lt;strong&gt;don't use too much grain in compensation for it being your first time&lt;/strong&gt;. I ended up with way too high of gravity because I was worried about conversion. There's a decent chance you will get good conversion on the first time. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="473" LastActivityDate="2010-05-07T16:09:27.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2022" CreationDate="2010-05-08T12:53:05.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you are using brewing software a lot of them have the option of indicating that your extract is being used as a 'late kettle addition' and you can then set the time (i.e. 15m from flameout), by doing this the software should automatically adjust your SRM and IBU's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="543" LastActivityDate="2010-05-08T12:53:05.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2105" CreationDate="2010-05-08T23:37:03.500" Score="5" ViewCount="5143" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have this idea where I want to thread a citra-laden Belgian IPA with a pineapple beer fermented with Brett C and Brett C only. Does anyone have any experience using Brett C and can speak to how long it will take to ferment? I know that Brett L and B (in pure lambics) can take 6-10 months to really develop all of the elements of the traditional Brett flavor profile. Is Brett C on the same timeframe? I figure I will leave the Belgian IPA in the fermenter for about 2 months. I'd like to brew them around the same time, so if I give the Brett C pineapple 2 months, will that be long enough to get some tart and funky flavors out of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hasn't been a particularly well written BrewAdvice question, and for that I apologize in advance. I look forward, as always, to the enlightened responses from this community!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastActivityDate="2010-05-14T21:46:11.447" Title="Time It Takes Brett C to Ferment" Tags="|brettanomyces|yeast|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2082" CreationDate="2010-05-09T16:58:48.400" Score="3" ViewCount="2687" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just a beginner brewer, I have done just 5 batches of all-grain beer, some Hefe-Weizens, APA and an Irish Red Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my next all-grain beer I would like to make an IPA recipe. But the two best IPAs I have ever tasted is the Fuller's IPA and Brooklyn East IPA, I think this two beers are pretty close in taste, being Brooklyn's slightly strongest in hop taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what kind of hop I have to use to get Fuller's IPA hop taste and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone have an idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips for my first IPA are welcome too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T11:30:38.633" Title="What hop should I use to get Fuller's IPA hop taste and aroma?" Tags="|hops|aroma|ipa|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2078" CreationDate="2010-05-09T17:28:04.937" Score="10" ViewCount="4622" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now I am using the standard fermtech plastic auto siphon, but it already broke and it's a pretty flimsy and poorly designed way to siphon beer (the plastic piece in the tip broke and it can't force any pressure to start the siphon). Does anyone know of a better siphon that might actually last longer? I was trying to search google and forums for a metal auto siphon, but couldn't find anything. I like the ease of using an auto siphon, but I want one that won't break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="473" LastEditorUserId="981" LastEditDate="2011-05-07T22:29:38.900" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T19:32:30.070" Title="Is there a more durable alternative to a plastic auto-siphon?" Tags="|siphon|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2077" CreationDate="2010-05-09T18:03:20.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just use a siphoning tube. I let it sit in either boiling water for a minute or a sanitizer solution for a few minutes, then fill it with said liquid. It's way easier with sanitizer than boiling water, since sanitizer doesn't boil your hands...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the &quot;from&quot; container is higher than the &quot;to&quot; container - for example, kettle on the counter, carboy on the floor - it's pretty easy to start the siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pinch the &quot;to&quot; side of the siphon, get a cup ready to grab the water, and put the &quot;from&quot; part in the originating container. Once it's in, release the pinch, drain the siphoning liquid into the prepared cup, and then quickly put the &quot;to&quot; end of the tube in the receiving container. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just keep an eye on the originating tube end to make sure it stays below the level of the liquid, without sticking it into the trub and clogging it / getting all the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution is cheap. It's just the cost of the tubing. It can be messy, but after a few tries you get pretty good at it. Helps to have a friend too. Extra hands and you don't need a long wingspan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd advise about 3-4' of tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="916" LastEditDate="2011-05-06T14:59:30.897" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T14:59:30.897" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2039" CreationDate="2010-05-09T18:22:46.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created a Google calendar for my brew log.  It makes searching easy (this is important when you start brewing a lot) and the best part is you can access it anywhere there is internet.  There have been a few times when I pulled up an old log on an iPhone while talking to someone in a bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="553" LastActivityDate="2010-05-09T18:22:46.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2039" CreationDate="2010-05-09T19:16:59.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tiddlywiki.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Tiddly Wiki&quot;&gt;TiddlyWiki&lt;/a&gt; to create tables of my recipes, format my brewing notes, and just keep track of everything. It's a portable wiki that's pretty easy to use. Using a free online hosted wiki might be a better idea though. There are several free online wiki sites to choose from. The only reason I didn't choose to use those is because I figured that I will do a better job of preserving and backing up my brewing data, and I didn't want to risk one of those sites just &quot;going away&quot; as too many sites often do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I need to take the brewing wiki with me, it's stored as a single file that you can throw on a flash drive, or even e-mail to yourself, since it's really small (Less than 1Mb I believe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="473" LastActivityDate="2010-05-09T19:16:59.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2077" CreationDate="2010-05-10T02:29:53.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any metal autosiphons, but there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/18860//Racking_Cane_-_Stainless_3_8%22_x_21%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stainless steel racking canes&lt;/a&gt; out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My racking cane has lasted a long long time and its plastic though.  Maybe there are differences in plastic construction vendor to vendor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-05-10T12:24:22.767" LastActivityDate="2010-05-10T12:24:22.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2010-05-10T02:37:20.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wasn't aware that Fullers made an IPA.  I couldn't find it at the Fullers website.  Fullers  being a UK based brewery I'd suggest looking into East Kent Goldings hops, and Fuggles hops. Both are UK varieties used in many English style ales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-10T02:37:20.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2077" CreationDate="2010-05-10T15:11:58.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go with the combination of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/24-stainless-rack-tube.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stainless steel racking cane&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/3-5-6-gall-carboy-cap-orange.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carboy cap&lt;/a&gt;.  You can either use breath pressure or CO2 to get the siphon going.  I'm going to try using CO2 pressure entirely, and no siphoning, so as to stop having to lug full carboys around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll update here when I know how it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still using the auto-siphon and the lugging. Next to my Therminator, it's my favorite piece of equipment, and the most used, and I've never had issues with flimsiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2011-05-27T19:32:30.070" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T19:32:30.070" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2088" CreationDate="2010-05-11T14:14:27.660" Score="18" ViewCount="10312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking on buying an immersion chiller and from other threads I've thought of using the post-chiller hot water for cleanup, and I've also heard of using the water (after it starts to cool down) to water the garden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much water does a wort chiller use to cool a 5 gallon batch of beer down to pitch temp?  Does any one kind use significantly more/less than the others?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I worded the question poorly.  I started this question thinking about immersion chillers only, but as I was typing I wanted to open it up to other chiller types.  Based on the answers by Brewchez and Room3, I'm figuring that an immersion chiller takes somewhere around 50 gallons to bring a batch to pitch temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the approximate water use of Counterflow, Plate, and Whirlpool chillers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="106" LastEditDate="2010-05-11T18:00:32.960" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T05:23:08.707" Title="How much water does a wort chiller use?" Tags="|chiller|water|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2010-05-11T14:58:12.007" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, you're going to want to figure out the immersion chiller's flow rate.  Depending on your water pressure, tube length, and tube diameter, I think it could range anywhere from 1 gallon a minute to 10 gallons a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can approximate it's output by timing how long it takes you to fill your carboy with a garden hose or sink, whichever applies to your chiller.  Your gallons per minute = the size of your carboy (in gallons) divided by the elapsed time to fill it (in seconds), multiplied by 60, so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(CarboySize/FillTime)*60 = GallonsPerMinute&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have this, you'll have to scale down to compensate for the area difference between the hose and the tubing.  Remember area=Pi*radius^2?  I always wondered when I'd put it to use :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say you have a 5/8 inch hose, so the area would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Pi * (.625 / 2)^2 = ~.3068&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say you have a 3/8 inch, 25 ft chiller (this seems to be a popular one), so the area would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Pi * (.375 / 2)^2 = ~.1104&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would guess it would have about a third of the throughput:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;NewGallonsPerMinute = GallonsPerMinute / 3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So assuming your hose and chiller are the sizes indicated above and your hose can put out about 10 gallons per minute, your looking at about 3 gallons per minute for your chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your cool-down time will depend on whether you just sit the chiller in the pot or you agitate your wort a lot, as well as your cold water temperature and your copper coil surface area.  But if you go by &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/250/wort-chiller-cool-down-times&quot;&gt;previous posts&lt;/a&gt; on this site it sounds like times of 20 minutes seem to be average, costing you about 60 gallons of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to you could apply &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_transfer#Newton.27s_law_of_cooling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Newton's law of cooling&lt;/a&gt; to calculate how fast it will cool.  Basically the more surface area (the longer and wider your tubing), higher temperature difference, and faster water flow you have, the faster your wort will cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that temperature difference is only the temperature of the water and wort touching the tube walls, not the other wort sitting around, so a great deal depends on liquid turbulence.  This isn't a big deal inside the tube, since the flowing water is very turbulent, but if you just sit your chiller in your wort and don't disturb it, you'll notice cold water coming out of your chiller while your wort remains hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for which ones use less water than others, doubling your tube length  doubles your surface area, but actually only gives you about a 50% increase in efficiency.  That's because the surface area you gain by lengthening the tube doesn't have an affect at the beginning, but gradually increases efficiency as you chill.  The temperature difference at the beginning is just too great for it to matter.  Doubling the tube width, actually gives you better efficiency than lengthening, but that's do to the fact that you're increasing the flow rate as well as the surface area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if by efficiency you are referring to the speed you can chill, the more length and diameter, the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're wanting to save as much water as possible while also cooling quickly, go for a chiller with more length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen chillers that have the coils all bound or soldered together.  This won't be as efficient as an unbound chiller of the same length due to the decreased surface area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-05-11T17:57:27.373" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2010-05-11T15:59:57.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My immersion chiller spends about 30-35 gallons of water to chill down a five gallon batch.  But the volume of water depends on the efficiency of your chiller.  I used to use a 3/8ths 25 foot immersion chiller and I used more water.  Closer to 60-70gallons.  Now I have a 1/2inch 50foot chiller and its more efficient, i.e. less water consumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the amount of water produced for clean up is going to be related to efficiency of the chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The useful temp of such water is another issue.  The first 5-10 gallons is very hot water.  And the water gets progressively cooler as you chill.  If you collect all the water in a large tub eventually you'll be cooling the &quot;wash water&quot; with chill water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So even though your chiller may produce 30-70 gallons of run out water.  Not all of it will be &quot;hot&quot; enough for your cleaning (depending on your preference for temp of wash water right?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to put PBW into the bottom of a large party tub, run the hot water into it and stir it up occasionally.  Then as the water cools I pay attention.  When the water is still hot but cool enough to touch, I start running out the cooler water to the ground so as to not over chill the cleaning water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-11T15:59:57.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2010-05-11T18:55:59.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Therminator plate chiller gets hooked up to a utility sink that runs 3 gallons per minute.  It chills an entire 5 gallon batch down to pitching temperature in 3-4 minutes.  So, 9-12 gallons.  If I was very concerned about saving water, I think I could get that down by using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blichmannengineering.com/thrumometer/thrumometer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thrumometer&lt;/a&gt;, which would allow me to use the minimum possible flow rate to get the temperature I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned about water usage, a plate chiller or other counterflow chiller is the best way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, if I wasn't a light sleeper, I would sleep with this thing under my pillow every night. I lurve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-05-11T20:29:15.620" LastActivityDate="2010-05-11T20:29:15.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2094" CreationDate="2010-05-12T02:02:02.363" Score="2" ViewCount="914" Body="&lt;p&gt;Me and my friend made a hefeweizen a time ago and this beer had a strange behaviour, when we open the bottles the foam grows up fast until get out of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is ok, in fact it tastes great, but we don't know what we could made to this strange foam behaviour happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have never experienced this on our batches, only on this hefeweizen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone have an idea what causes big foams growing up after open the bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-05-12T13:43:38.127" LastActivityDate="2010-05-12T13:43:38.127" Title="What can happened in a wheat beer with a lot of foam?" Tags="|head|troubleshooting|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2092" CreationDate="2010-05-12T03:20:30.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What was the final gravity?  How long did you ferment before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that there were residual fermentable sugars (i.e. fermentation wasn't complete) or you used too much priming sugar when bottling.  Either way, the yeast had too much sugar left to consume inside the bottle and produced too much carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hit your final target gravity, and checked it a couple times (with a couple days in between) without the gravity dropping any further before bottling, then fermentation was likely complete and it was simply a case of too much priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't check to make sure that fermentation was 100% complete, it could be one or the other, or a combination of both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastEditorUserId="412" LastEditDate="2010-05-12T03:28:36.267" LastActivityDate="2010-05-12T03:28:36.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2092" CreationDate="2010-05-12T12:08:35.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incomplete fermentation leaving residual sugar in the bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much priming sugar.  Which would also be amplified as a problem if #1 is the case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You inadvertently picked up an infection and the non-fermentables along with the priming sugar has led to over carbing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opening the bottles warm and the CO2 is no longer dissolved in the beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheat beers tend to have extra protein and hence foam stabilizing properties.  But the foam shouldn't climb out of the bottle when opened normally.  Only you can decide which of the three possibilities it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-12T12:08:35.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2039" CreationDate="2010-05-13T19:20:04.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really want to be using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beersmith&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="badger" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-02-02T13:25:57.713" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T13:25:57.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2103" CreationDate="2010-05-14T16:00:41.390" Score="5" ViewCount="22505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying my first beer kit after trying wine once before. I picked up a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/summit-avenue-ale-clone.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Summit Avenue EPA&quot;&lt;/a&gt; clone of Summit EPA from Midwest Supplies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Monday I did the 60 minute boil, cooled everthing to about 75 degrees F and pitched the yeast. Took a hydrometer reading and got an adjusted SG of 1.031 which seemed a bit low. I moved the plastic bucket with the lid on and the fermentation lock on into the basement which is usually around 65 degrees. Tuesday I checked on it and saw the lock bubbling happily with a bubble every 2 to 3 seconds. On Wednesday I checked again and there were no bubbles at all in over a minute. I decided to leave it for an extra day and see if it worked itself out. Wednesday night I checked again and saw no bubbles for the 2nd straight day. I decided to move the bucket upstairs into a closet where the temperature is a bit higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning there are still no bubbles and I'm starting to get worried - is there anything I should do to kick start the fermentation (make a new starter and pitch new yeast?) or should I just let it go for a few more days and see what happens? Also is it bad to take the lid off and get a new hydrometer reading this early in the fermentation process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastEditorUserId="2001" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T17:11:50.667" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T23:56:39.417" Title="What to do with a stuck fermentation after 2 days with my first beer kit?" Tags="|first-time|fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2010-05-14T17:00:07.147" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try rousing the yeast and see if that gets it going. Grab your brewers paddle and give the wort a good mix up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2010-05-14T17:00:07.147" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2010-05-14T17:42:26.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a batch of beer that fermented VERY quickly.  As in finished fermenting within 48 hours of pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a hydrometer reading.  If it is near/at your final gravity, I'd say you are ready to bottle/keg.  Once you are finished make sure the lid is secured properly and that the hole in the lid of the bucket is fully closed off.  You may be fermenting and off-gassing, but due to a leak in the fermenter, not seeing any airlock activity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's not finished, try aerating it.  Give it a day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's STILL not doing anything, pick up some yeast from the LHBS and pitch.  Give it a couple of days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's yet again STILL not doing anything, consider a sacrificing the batch to the beer gods and start over with a new batch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-05-14T17:42:26.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2010-05-14T18:40:53.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you do anythin take a hydrometer reading. The airlock is only an indicator and just because it is not bubbling it does not mean it is fermenting. ALWAYS TRUST THE HYDROMETER&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="543" LastActivityDate="2010-05-14T18:40:53.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2010-05-14T19:38:07.933" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first batch can be terrifying. You have nothing to compare to, and people are giving you conflicting advice.  It's like driving at night with the lights off.... &lt;strong&gt;except&lt;/strong&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is beer. What you have there is probably beer, or well on its way, and not needing of your help.  It's probably drinkable, or will be at some point.  Here's some thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OG reading you took seems low for the fermentables you put in (6 lbs LME, 1 lb DME). I put it through beercalculus.hopville.com because the kit doesn't give an expected gravity. I came up with 1.050.  If you took your 1.031 OG reading while the wort was still hot, say 150F, this would correlate to a 60F reading of 1.050.  If it was room temp, then that's puzzling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you explain how you took the reading and how you adjusted it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly: don't dump this batch.  It's probably fine.  I stressed out about my first batch, ended up drinking it early when I could've let it sit and mature.  (It's 6 months old now and I'm left with one bottle, which is undoubtedly better than any of its predecessors.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think it's underattenuated (taste for sweetness), add some dry champagne yeast and give it another week, then bottle and move on to batch #2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your second question, since you've had &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; fermentation, that means there's &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; alcohol in there, which means popping the top and checking the gravity is totally fine. Don't let your pet iguana crawl into it, and maybe don't be eating a messy sandwich over it while you're taking the reading, but your chances of infecting it by taking a reading after there's been significant fermentation are very, very low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-05-14T20:44:37.630" LastActivityDate="2010-05-14T20:44:37.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1659" CreationDate="2010-05-14T20:38:58.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On one of the recent Basic Brewing podcasts, one of the commercial brewer interviewees said they simulate staling by subjecting a bottle to extended high temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stick a bottle behind your refrigerator or on top of your water heater for a week.  That, apparently, will accelerate some of the staling reactions you're interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-05-14T20:38:58.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2075" CreationDate="2010-05-14T21:46:11.447" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here we go... The pineapple characteristic your after is not exclusive to B. claussenii. And not everyone perceives aroma in the same way. I have seen the Orval Brett form pineapple type aromas and also leathery musty aromas in other beers. This will ultimately come down to the types of hops you used and brewing technique... Independent results will be achieved by each brewer due to limitations of brewing experience and raw materials used. Citra is a great choice as it will accentuate the aromatic and citrusy flavors you're looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my research with eight strains of Brettanomyces, I found B. claussenii to be a very slow fermenter when it came to primary fermentation. The higher the acidity the greater the attenuation. Also the fermentations were only given 35 days to primary ferment so maybe in 2 months you could get the character and attenuation your looking for. It eventually happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So which B. claussenii you would like to use. Wyeast: I find this strain to be on the fruitier side but will often impart slight metallic aromas again depends on your raw materials. Whitelabs: this can produce fruity aromas but I find it to lack much character when used as a single strain. I have not seen evidence which show what's bought in the homebrew cultures is pure. What you get in the homebrew cultures also includes Pichia, and two forms of lacto.. Now this combination makes a great beer due to the slight possibility of fruitiness from the Pichia and sourness that occurs due to the lacto, and gives a &quot;typical&quot; Brett beer type aroma and flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said I have had some beers that came through with some slight lemon aromas lately.. one of which was the Wyeast B. claussenii in secondary but it was coupled with a horsey, catpiss aromas but opened up with lemon verbena and some mustiness. Its Brett and even if you do a controlled primary there are going to be characteristic Brett aromas. But whats wrong with these.. that's to each there own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another Brett that is great but not available is the Drie strain... Think Brute from Ithica.. One of the best Brett beer in my opinion... that beer also takes about 10+ months to produce...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short, if your looking for the pineapple in two months from using B. claussenii, I don't think its going happen. Instead I think you should use B. claussenii in a big Belgian IPA.. lite on the bitterness and heavy on the late hops, and see what happens, because using Brettanomyces is a unique experience where the possibilities are endless and the results can be amazing.. and they also will be ever changing.. there will be no final flavor in a beer with Brettanomyces unless it is pasterized, otherwise its ever evolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try making the Brett beer first and seeing how it progresses after 2 months.. if its looking good, then brew the Belgian style IPA and thread the two... If the results are good.. bottle with minimal but sufficient priming sugar as the Brett will continue to digest additional sugars while in the bottle and overtime... Secondly try to rack the IPA off the yeast as much as possible.. Lots of Saccharomyces and Brettanomyces together over time produce goaty flavors... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chad Yakobson   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Chad Yakobson" LastActivityDate="2010-05-14T21:46:11.447" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-05-14T21:46:11.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2107" CreationDate="2010-05-15T01:31:26.853" Score="2" ViewCount="547" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first Irish Red Ale is at the secondary fermentation for about a week, I want to put the secondary fermenter to maturate on a refrigerator (with digital control for temp) for one more week before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the best temp to maturate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a Danstar Nottingham yeast in this beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T05:37:59.317" Title="What temp for a secondary maturation?" Tags="|maturation|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2106" CreationDate="2010-05-15T11:49:23.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a fridge, I'd condition it at serving temp.  But if you are not kegging the beer after, you may need to add more yeast at bottling time if you cold crash it for too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may still be enough yeast in suspension when you go to bottle, but they'll be very sluggish after the cold crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT&#xA;Re reading your post later, I think you'll be fine on the yeast issue.  If you cold crash for one week then you should be able to bottle without the need of additional yeast. So don't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-05-15T14:23:57.800" LastActivityDate="2010-05-15T14:23:57.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2010-05-15T11:57:26.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If after you check the gravity you truly are &quot;stuck&quot; the appropriate steps are to warm it up some and rouse the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, I'd move the fermenter to a warmer spot for a day to ensure its a little warmer than where you were fermenting.  If you can get it to 75F that would be fine.  Then I would gently introduce a sanitized spoon or something deep into the fermentor to get to the cake.  Gently stir it up some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to never open it and gently swirl it around until you get the whole volume moving and the yeast cake starts to loosen up.  I prefer that technique and have used it with good results.  But if you are not in a clear carboy it can be hard to tell how well its going if you aren't used to it.  Lastly, if you used a really flocculant English type yeast strain that cake can be pretty tight and difficult to rouse with swirling.  Again the clear glass carboy is useful here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try racking it to a new fermentor and suck up the yeast cake too, but that gets messy and increases the chances of oxidation and contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-15T11:57:26.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-05-16T21:52:23.227" Score="7" ViewCount="15205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am allergic to malt and thus need to avoid it. I currently drink hard ciders, brandy, and wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any brew kits out there that does not use any kind of malt as an ingredient? I am trying research what I need to do to make my own beer. Thus far most of them seem to have some sort of malt in them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear: the problem is the malt, not gluten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2011-10-29T16:11:45.227" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T15:42:03.990" Title="Is there such a thing as malt-free beer?" Tags="|beer|nutrition|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2112" CreationDate="2010-05-18T01:39:17.717" Score="4" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't really know what I did here. I cut off the bottom little cross guy on the stem of the airlock because it was getting clogged up during vigorous fermentations. Now the middle piece just kind of sits on top of the stem and doesn't move at all, even though I know there's fermentation going on. I didn't have this problem until I cut the bottom pieces off of my airlocks. Please advise, as I've got 20 gallons in fermenters right now and am having this problem with 3 of the airlocks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:28:01.873" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:28:01.873" Title="Did I Break My Airlock?" Tags="|fermentation|equipment|airlock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2110" CreationDate="2010-05-18T02:04:25.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cutting the little cross-hatches off of a three-piece airlock will do nothing to harm the basic operation of the airlock. They work on air pressure.  It is likely one of three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Airlock has too much fluid in it, keeping the loose lock piece from moving up and down. It still works like this, just without the satisfying rattle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Airlock doesn't have enough fluid in it. That will keep it from rattling much as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your fermenters are not fully sealed.  Check all the lids and make sure they are tight and check around the base of the airlocks and make sure that seal is tight as well. This happens more than you would think.  I've done it myself.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-05-18T02:04:25.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2110" CreationDate="2010-05-18T02:08:56.747" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It just means that air is escaping elsewhere, like around the bucket lid in one, two, or a few places, or from around the grommet around the airlock.  If you've had many vigorous fermentations using your buckets (and I'm assuming buckets here--this isn't likely to happen with a carboy unless your stopper is too small), then there is a good chance there are other leaks.  Not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your beer is actively fermenting all outside air is still being pushed out and away from your beer.  This will expel and prevent entry from any nasties that could harm your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Airlock activity is not a good gauge of how well your batch is fermenting, and wherever your small leaks are, they're not likely to allow any contaminants in, provided that you don't go for months without racking, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RDWHHB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS--If you are using carboys, you should be using blow-off tubes instead of airlocks to deal with this sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-05-18T02:08:56.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2109" CreationDate="2010-05-18T02:50:48.553" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the comments and questions to your post have indicated, it sounds like a gluten problem.  There are a few gluten-free beers (like Redbridge--an Anhueser-Bush product, unfortunately), so there are of course gluten-free homebrews.  Most of what's available are sorghum-based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is one recipe kit based on sorghum extract and Belgian candi sugar:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewers.com/product/ALP1051/Gluten-Free-Dark-Ale-Beer-Kit.html&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewers.com/product/ALP1051/Gluten-Free-Dark-Ale-Beer-Kit.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can still enjoy the pleasure of homebrewing with something like this, or I'd recommend acquiring a taste for mead (I'm not a mead-drinker myself, so my advice would be very limited here).  You could do a lot with homebrewed mead without ever involving anything that could get you sick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-05-18T02:50:48.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2116" CreationDate="2010-05-19T13:10:20.250" Score="13" ViewCount="6916" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1259/how-can-i-tell-when-wine-has-finished-degassing&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, I was wondering why have I heard of people degassing wine, but never beer? Does one also need to degas mead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T22:27:42.803" Title="why do you degas wine but not beer?" Tags="|wine|mead|degassing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2114" CreationDate="2010-05-19T13:28:19.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't make wine, but my understanding is that the purpose of degassing is to release the remnant CO2 still in solution at the completion of fermentation. CO2, of course, is desirable in beer, so one wouldn't want to expel that after fermentation. It's the opposite with wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="376" LastActivityDate="2010-05-19T13:28:19.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2114" CreationDate="2010-05-19T13:32:12.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wine is degassed because it is served still.  &quot;Still&quot; is a term that means not-carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer is carbonated, so there is no need to bother, since you are introducing CO2 to the beer anyway.  Mind you, there are phases of beer production on certain styles where you are essentially degassing, (diacetyl rest) but that is for different reasons than why you degas wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to mead, that depends.  My mead is sparkling, so I don't bother degassing it.  If your mead is going to be still, then you would need to degas it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-05-19T13:32:12.947" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2118" CreationDate="2010-05-19T15:32:50.810" Score="4" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;Promash doesn't support late addition of extracts (which affects hop extraction).  Either that, or I can't find out how to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes use &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beercalculus.hopville.com&lt;/a&gt; to create two recipes, one without the late addition, from which I take the IBUs, and one with the late addition, from which I take the OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any software out there that will allow me to note when fermentables go into the boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hopville.com&lt;/a&gt; has supported late additions since shortly after I asked this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2012-04-19T16:29:39.717" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T05:44:21.097" Title="Is there a brewing software that supports late additions?" Tags="|calculations|software|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2117" CreationDate="2010-05-19T17:14:07.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beersmith currently allows for late addition of extract.  And it allows you to enter the time at which you are entering it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Promash is popular, but worthless when it comes to updates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beersmith is supposed to  be coming out with an update later in the summer, just something to keep in mind if you chose to buy a copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-19T17:14:07.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2120" CreationDate="2010-05-19T17:17:57.040" Score="7" ViewCount="2073" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple plants going, but I am ready to get more of the same varieties going in the future.&#xA;How do I go about getting more plants from the same plants I already have?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can I take a cutting?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can I just bury a fresh bine out to the side?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Do I dig up and chop up the rhizome at the end of the season?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help me get my hop yard going!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T03:43:01.687" Title="How do I propagate my hops?" Tags="|hops|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2119" CreationDate="2010-05-19T18:56:47.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I googled around a bit and came up with this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the season healthy bottom vines can be buried for the propagation of new plants the next spring. Simply bury the vines in a shallow trench and mark their location. In spring dig them up and cut them into pieces about 4 inches long. Make sure each new cutting has an eye or bud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds easy enough...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Hop_cultivation#Root_pruning_and_propogation&quot;&gt;homebrewtalk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-05-19T18:56:47.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2123" CreationDate="2010-05-19T20:07:16.630" Score="14" ViewCount="4636" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best book for beginning home brewers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** Please post 1 book per post, then the resulting votes will show what most people consider to be the best book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:54:10.343" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:54:10.343" Title="What is the best book for beginning home brewers?" Tags="|beer|brewing|books|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2010-05-19T20:07:52.840" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Complete Joy of Home Brewing by Charlie Papazian&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastActivityDate="2010-05-19T20:07:52.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2010-05-19T21:05:48.830" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381888&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt; to be a very helpful book along with The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0060531053&quot;&gt;Complete Joy of Homebrewing&lt;/a&gt;. I feel like it complimented Papazian's book well, and in some cases was a bit easier to read, or filled in any lingering questions I had. In the end everyone seems to go with Papazian's, but I think How to Brew was an easier read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-05-19T21:05:48.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2010-05-19T22:30:52.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Designing Great Beers- Ray Daniels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;This really isn't a great beginner book.  But it IS the book to get after you read The Complete Joy and How to Brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-05-20T11:49:23.927" LastActivityDate="2010-05-20T11:49:23.927" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2010-05-20T10:00:33.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381837&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Radical Brewing&lt;/a&gt; by Randy Mosher&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2010-05-20T10:00:33.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="861" CreationDate="2010-05-20T14:45:14.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nowadays I'm using a thermostat plugged in an old fridge with a probe inside the fridge. So I can program the temperature the fridge will stay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastActivityDate="2010-05-20T14:45:14.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-05-20T19:41:53.333" Score="5" ViewCount="2049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed a few batches of beer using pre-measured kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have turned out great, and have I have enjoyed them.  However, I would like to make the move towards all grain brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a difficult move to make?  Any good advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2011-10-22T13:02:36.670" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T02:09:39.527" Title="The move from kit brewing to all grain brewing" Tags="|all-grain|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2039" CreationDate="2010-05-20T19:43:55.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I carry my ipod touch with me all the time, and am quite pleased with the newer updates to Brew Pal, an app that keeps recipes and now has decent customization.  Since I don't have a smart phone, this is the easiest way to always have my recipes on hand.  C-4 is right though, you really should use Google calendar, especially if you have brewing co-conspirators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2010-05-20T19:43:55.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2138" CreationDate="2010-05-20T20:02:58.340" Score="4" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my first keg from a beer store, whom I asked if they had any kegs I could buy outright.  The keg they &quot;sold&quot; me was in really good condition, and only cost me $30.  I'm looking to get a second brew kettle, and I feel like the way I got this first one was shady at best, considering the cost to the brewery to manufacture a keg.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good sources that are on the level for obtaining a relatively low cost keg for kettle use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2010-05-24T15:21:33.297" Title="What are some good places to get a keg for a brew kettle?" Tags="|keg|kettle|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2129" CreationDate="2010-05-20T20:45:55.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen quite a few on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craigslist.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;craigslist&lt;/a&gt;. A bunch of them I have seen have even already been converted for kettle use as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-05-20T20:45:55.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2010-05-20T20:49:20.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a big fan of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0882669052&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dave Miller's Homebrewing Guide&lt;/a&gt;. Had it since my first batch and still refer to it frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-05-20T20:49:20.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2117" CreationDate="2010-05-20T20:59:33.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are a Mac user, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kentplacesoftware.com/products/BeerAlchemy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Alchemy&lt;/a&gt; from Kent Place Software is excellent. The have some support for late additions as all ingredients have a 'when added' column. For fermentables, the options are in the mash/steeped, start of boil and end of boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2010-05-20T20:59:33.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2127" CreationDate="2010-05-20T22:03:52.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was answered here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/116/about-going-all-grain&quot;&gt;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/116/about-going-all-grain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if that answers your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switch from BA to the new site didn't fix all links. Here's where it was meant to go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/895/about-going-all-grain&quot;&gt;About going all-grain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T14:51:22.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2119" CreationDate="2010-05-20T22:28:51.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can bury bines at the end of the season - a couple inches deep.  You mention these are established hop plants so if you cut a circle around the bines - say 12 inch radius, 2 or three inches deep and pull up the rhizomes on the outside of that circle, cut them in 4 to 6 inch sections and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.growinghopsyourself.com/growing-hops/growing-hops-from-rhizomes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;plant the hop rhizomes&lt;/a&gt; where you want to expand your hops, that is the best way.  The rhizomes will be just under the soil and possibly on top running out from the crown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Growing Hops" LastActivityDate="2010-05-20T22:28:51.080" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-05-20T22:28:51.080" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-05-23T19:22:30.830" Score="4" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty often when you brew an all-grain batch you get a quantity of extra wort with no apparent use. A common practice is to keep some of that wort for a starter for the next batch. Could someone instead process it into LME (by boiling it for some more time and storing it in a sanitised vessel) or, even better into DME (by other means) in order to use it as a &lt;strong&gt;fermentable&lt;/strong&gt; in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-06-21T14:55:27.053" Title="Home-made LME&amp;DME-is it achievable?" Tags="|wort|dme|lme|process|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2135" CreationDate="2010-05-23T20:22:34.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, no.  Any LME you end up with will be super-dark.  Dry malt extract requires flash drying with high pressure nozzles and is not a home operation.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Malting101/Technical_Presentations.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Briess&lt;/a&gt; has some explanation of the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technical nature of creating DME and LME is more than can be done in the home.  It's even harder to do than malting your own grains, which is difficult enough, and requires a lot of specialized equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides, a gallon of wort probably gets you less than a handful of DME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-05-23T20:22:34.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2010-05-24T01:27:43.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0060952164&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewmasters Bible&lt;/a&gt;.  I bought this book when I started out about 5 years ago.  It was easy to follow then, having never brewed before, and I feel there is still a lot I can learn from the book now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any other books to compare this too, but it served as an excellent starting point for me and I still find it to be a good reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-05-24T01:27:43.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2129" CreationDate="2010-05-24T12:12:20.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tour as many of your local breweries as possible.  Sometimes kegs get damaged with cracks in the neck area.  I have asked in been offered to let me buy these types of kegs from this source in the past.  Your local package store may offer you the same thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supposedly, you can cruise local scrap yards for kegs.  But the cost of stainless these days has largely cleaned scrap yards of kegs years ago I think.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As I posted in my comment to your question, if you ever get friendly with a distrubutor this is your best bet.  These guys see the most turn over of kegs and if they have damaged ones you most likely to find it here.  Although they are property of the host brewery, most distributors can't sell them per se either.  Unless, the brewery and distributor have a keg managment agreement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-24T12:12:20.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2129" CreationDate="2010-05-24T15:21:33.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was considering this, I contacted my local microbrewery, Six Point in Red Hook, Brooklyn.  They were very nice. One of the line managers got back to me within about a week and said he had two 50L kegs they'd pulled off the line with an eye to refurbishing them.  He said he could give me one or both for $40 a piece.  This was all totally above board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I didn't end up going through with it. My system is fine as is.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-05-24T15:21:33.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1846" CreationDate="2010-05-24T19:37:06.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same faucet, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used an ice bath at first. Then, I had a utility sink installed in my basement, and now I run a tube from my kitchen down to my basement, where I hook up a plate chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had considered a couple of workarounds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) Splitting off the cold water under the sink with a wye connector and a stopcock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros: stays out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons: you&#xA;have to fiddle around under your sink.&#xA;You introduce the possibility of leaks&#xA;under your sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) A &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000BXKYYI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;giant funnel&lt;/a&gt; using gravity to push the cooling water through the chiller. If you're brewing in your kitchen, you could use the loop at the top to hang the funnel from the top of the cabinet above your sink.  Better yet, you can use a utility knife to cut a notch out of the side of this funnel, then stretch the faucet up and hang it so that it empties into the funnel. I'm not up to speed on fluid dynamics, but I think you could get enough pressure out of the gravity feed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros: Cheap. Stowable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons: Potentially messy. Ugly while not stowed. Untested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OOFTO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T14:36:37.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2149" CreationDate="2010-05-24T20:03:21.460" Score="2" ViewCount="1427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that Brett will consume sugars that other yeast strains cannot.  Is this true?  I couldn't really find too much information on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, should I be worried about over carbonating my beer if I only use Brett for bottling?  Do I need to adjust the amount of priming sugar I use or is the amount of additional fermentable sugar negligible when it comes to CO2 production during bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-12-13T17:59:28.137" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T17:59:28.137" Title="How much sugar should be used when priming with Brett?" Tags="|yeast|bottle-conditioning|priming-sugar|brettanomyces|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2127" CreationDate="2010-05-24T20:23:08.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not ready to jump into all-grain, but want to start moving in that direction I would first start &lt;em&gt;thinking outside the boxkit&lt;/em&gt; and formulate your own extract recipes.  Just taking that step can teach you a lot about brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start to learn the characteristics of different malts and hops, as well as being introduced to a vast array of yeast.  You can begin experimenting with adjuncts and start to better define the characteristics of different beer styles.  Unless you're going to copy all-grain recipes verbatim, you'll need to get a feel for these things eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grab one of the books listed on &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1342/what-is-the-best-book-for-beginning-home-brewers&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; and start learning and experimenting.  Depending on the depth of knowledge you crave, the path to all-grain can be short or very long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-05-24T20:23:08.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-05-25T14:17:28.353" Score="8" ViewCount="2302" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best book for beginning wine makers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** Please post 1 book per post, then the resulting votes will show what most people consider to be the best book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:54:16.943" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T17:50:28.270" Title="What is the best book for beginning wine makers?" Tags="|wine|books|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2148" CreationDate="2010-05-26T01:22:12.877" Score="6" ViewCount="2013" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make my first English IPA on this Sunday and I wanna know from more experienced homebrewers if my recipe is ok:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 20L batch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ingredients:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amount        Item                                      Type         % or IBU&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4.50 kg       Pale Ale Malt (8.3 EBC)                   Grain        77.59 %&lt;br&gt;&#xA;0.50 kg       Carahell (24.0 EBC)                       Grain        8.62 %&lt;br&gt;&#xA;0.50 kg       Wheat Malt, Bel (4.0 EBC)                 Grain        8.62 %&lt;br&gt;&#xA;0.30 kg       Carared (55.0 EBC)                        Grain        5.17 %&lt;br&gt;&#xA;30.00 gm      Cascade [5.40 %]  (60 min)                Hops         18.9 IBU&lt;br&gt;&#xA;30.00 gm      Cascade [5.40 %]  (45 min)                Hops         17.4 IBU&lt;br&gt;&#xA;30.00 gm      Cascade [5.40 %]  (30 min)                Hops         14.6 IBU&lt;br&gt;&#xA;30.00 gm      Cascade [5.40 %]  (15 min)                Hops         9.4 IBU&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 Pkgs        SafAle English Ale (DCL Yeast #S-04)      Yeast-Ale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what you think? All opinions are welcome! I wanna make a great IPA!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastEditorUserId="381" LastEditDate="2010-05-26T03:30:01.730" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T17:43:32.917" Title="Tips for my first English IPA" Tags="|ipa|recipe|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2146" CreationDate="2010-05-26T01:29:06.713" Score="5" ViewCount="1368" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would you ever use second hand brewing equipment? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way of making sure it's absolutely clean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ordinarily, for something like this, I'd just buy new (so you know where it's been), or for things like glass bottles (which are hard to find new) I'd soak them in bleach and then use the oven to sanitize them completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I recently won an auction for a bench-top bottle capper, which came with a whole pile of other stuff  like a heat box, and 3x30 litre plastic fermenters.  I was originally just going to throw them away, but now I'm thinking it might be kind of handy to have a couple of extra barrels around for bulk priming etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned though with how best to make sure they're safe to use given you can't know the history of second hand gear (and I obviously can't use the oven for plastic =). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is soaking in a strong bleach solution enough to remove pretty much any thing left on the inside? (chemical residue etc) Is there anything else I should try? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would I be best to just turf them and buy another fermenter that's new?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&#xA;Dave&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastEditorUserId="381" LastEditDate="2010-05-26T03:30:40.623" LastActivityDate="2010-05-26T03:30:40.623" Title="Sanitizing Second Hand Equipment (plastic fermenters etc)" Tags="|sanitation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2145" CreationDate="2010-05-26T03:28:07.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've purchased used equipment several times.  Metals and glass get hot and soapy, followed by a PBW soak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastics are another matter. The big difference to me is their condition and construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastics need to be inspected for scratches.  If they are carboys, likely they are not scratched on the inside.  Hot soapy, hot rinse, inspect, PBW, sanitize and use.  If there are visible scratches on the inside, then they are junk.  Rare on plastic carboys or conicals, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are bucket fermenters, unless they have been extraordinarily gently used, then they are junk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad signs for bucket fermenters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stacked one inside the other.  All but the top ones are scratched.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lid jammed inside.  Interior likely scratched.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loaded with hard non-plastic things, like the bench capper.  Scratched.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have largely relegated used plastic bucket fermenters to non-beer duty.  Unless you are sure about the interiors, and scratches almost too small to feel can harbor bacteria.  That's the downside of plastic.  That being said, I have one plastic bucket fermenter that is three years old.  Soft cloth only, careful use has kept it in service. But plastic buckets of unknown pedigree...I'd use for washing the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that being said, if they have been gently used.... Hot soapy, rinse, inspect, PBW, rinse, inspect again.  I certainly wouldn't use them for anything important for their maiden flight, if you decide to keep them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vinyl tubing, throw out.  It's too cheap to risk.  Everything else can be cleaned, especially if its metal or glass.  That's my advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-05-26T03:28:07.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2010-05-26T10:56:26.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're after making a &quot;proper&quot; British IPA, then Cascade probably isn't the hop you want to be using. (East Kent) Goldings and Fuggles are the classic British hops, you could also look at using something like Brambling Cross, which is used to good effect in Crown's Unpronounceable IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2010-05-26T10:56:26.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2010-05-26T11:35:44.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cascade is an American citrus flavored hop, English hops like East Kent Goldings or Fuggles are a better choice.&#xA;Secondly, &quot;Cara&quot; malts are generally a german type of malt.  If you really wanted to be true to English form, try getting some crystal malts, and some biscuit malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pale Ale malt is a good choice for a base malt so no worries there.  (Especially, if you can combine it with some biscuit malt.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good thing is that I think your proportions are well thought out, so making substitutions that are more English would put you in the right ball park.  I like your hop schedule just not the variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, the recipe as is though would make a fine beer.  I think if it more like a well hopped American Pale/Amber hybrid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if ingredients are an issue for you as I think you're writing from someplace other than the US or UK.  At least that's what I remember last time I checked out your profile.  If that's the case, just make the recipe you have and you'll probably enjoy it.&#xA;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-26T11:35:44.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2141" CreationDate="2010-05-26T11:43:07.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet would be to ferment with your primary yeast as planned.  Transfer to secondary.  Pitching in the brett to finish of what residual and non fermentables it can.  This might take a few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I'd bottle as usual, maybe even adding a 1/4 packet of dried ale yeast to ensure you get carbonations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way if it is possible to get a little brett flavor by pitching brett late as you suggest, you'll ferment off the danger of bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try it out this way or another, I'd like to hear the results someday, so check back here and repost with a comment, or look up my profile and email me the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers and good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-26T11:43:07.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2010-05-26T11:48:51.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing Classic Styles-  Jamil Zainasheff and John Palmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This book has a forward by John Palmer with a little discussion about techniques and ingredients.  The book is an extract recipe book and the authors focused on how to make great beer with extract.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;They wrote it with beginners in mind.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;They also took all the recipe styles and broke them down into beginner, intermediate and advanced catagories; which helps you gauge potential success against personal skill level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you understand the basic process of brewing, this is probably a great book for a beginner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-26T11:48:51.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2010-05-26T11:53:28.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Homebrewers Recipe Guide- Patrick Higgins, Maura Kate Kilgore and Paul Hertlein.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This book has a forward by Charlie Papazian.  Published by Simon and Shuster in 1992, it comprises mostly recipes but there are several great break out pages regarding Brewing Tips like converting extract to grain, starters, aeration, smoking and toasting malt, plus many more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have brewed several of the recipes and actually learned a lot about ingredients with this books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if its still available, but I wanted to put it here, because I recommend it and loan it to a lot of people when they are just starting out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-26T11:53:28.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2010-05-26T12:21:34.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If hop choice is limited, Willamette makes a good substitute for Fuggles and would be a decent choice for and English IPA. My first batch, Northern Brewer's India Pale Ale extract kit, used Summit, an American bittering hop, for its 60 minute addition, so there's some wiggle room there, but mostly in the bittering, not later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to what others have said about the choice of hop, I wanted to weigh in on the hop schedule. I've not seen a 45 minute hop addition very often.  A more classic hop schedule for an English IPA is 60-30-15-1. (That's the schedule on the Northern Brewer kit.) I'm not saying don't do the 45 minute addition, but that by leaving out the 1 minute addition, you might sell yourself short on aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also think about dry-hopping it for a few days before packaging.  This is common practice with all English ales. Restraint is rewarded here, though, as you can end up with vegetal and grassy flavors from overdoing it on the size or length of the dry-hop addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheat is interesting, if nonstandard. Same with the CaraRed. I'm envisioning something slightly cloudy and dangerously red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dunno. It looks like a nice beer to me. The only problem is you're calling it a &lt;strong&gt;Traditional English IPA&lt;/strong&gt;. Change the name to &lt;strong&gt;Better Red than Dead American IPA&lt;/strong&gt; and you'll have people beating a path to your door. If you want to brew to style, though, at a minimum, go with what my esteemed co-answerers have said about choosing English-style hops. It does make a real difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-05-27T02:52:09.143" LastActivityDate="2010-05-27T02:52:09.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2010-05-26T14:04:11.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well we don't seem to have a lot of wine makers yet reading. Or maybe wine makers can't read....interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, this book is one that several of my wine making friends recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morewinemaking.com/view_product/15844/102635/Home_Winemaking_Step_By_Step&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Home Winemaking: Step by Step&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-26T14:04:11.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2010-05-26T14:51:15.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, what you think? All opinions are welcome! I wanna make a great IPA!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like a good IPA, but not a good &lt;em&gt;English&lt;/em&gt; IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style14.php#1a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The BJCP says&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ingredients:&lt;/strong&gt; Pale ale malt (well-modified and&#xA;  suitable for single-temperature&#xA;  infusion mashing); English hops;&#xA;  English yeast that can give a fruity&#xA;  or sulfury/minerally profile. Refined&#xA;  sugar may be used in some versions.&#xA;  High sulfate and low carbonate water&#xA;  is essential to achieving a pleasant&#xA;  hop bitterness in authentic Burton&#xA;  versions, although not all examples&#xA;  will exhibit the strong sulfate&#xA;  character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original gravity looks on target. You overshot the IBU range by 5-10 IBUs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend using Maris Otter or Golden Promise malt instead of Pale for that authentic British character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop the wheat malt.  It will cloud up a beer that is supposed to be bright.  If you want soft malt character try some Vienna malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the hops, I like the flavor of Fuggles, especially when paired with Centennial for bittering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-05-26T14:51:15.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2156" CreationDate="2010-05-27T15:30:49.167" Score="6" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dilemma is this. I received a rare beer in a 1/2 barrel keg. I've been nursing on this beer from my kegerator now for 5 weeks (even had a party) and I've still got 5 gallons left. It sits at 9% so I can only have 2-3 pints a night before I'm kinda swasty faced. I would like to try to bottle it to see if it will age. That and I would like to get this 1/2 barrel out of my kegerator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The set up I've thought would work is to hook a picnic hose up to my sanke tap, and then jam a bottling wand into the picnic tap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to turn off my regulator then purge all the co2 out of my keg. Turn the regulator on to like 3-5 psi to get a nice flow(but avoid a large head). Keep the bottles in a Starsan cold solution then re-bottle the beer. Before I cap the bottle give it a blast of co2 from my handheld co2 bike pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone attempted this? I'm going to do a couple of test bottles this afternoon to see how the beer fairs after a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-05-27T16:13:47.893" Title="Bottling kegged beer" Tags="|bottling|keg|kegerator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2155" CreationDate="2010-05-27T16:13:47.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Man your question is the answer.  You described it exactly how I would do it.  I have done it this way in the past with homebrew beer and it works fine.  I would suggest two mods to your process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't bother with the bottling wand and its a source of turbulance that will help generate more foam.  Just go with a straight shot of tubing from the tap to the bottom of your chilled bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, I'd turn up the CO2 pressure on the keg for a couple days to get an extra 0.5 volume of CO2 into the beer.  That will help ensure that the carbonation you lose doesn't result in too flat a beer in the bottle.  You can always pour a slightly to &quot;spritzy&quot; beer a little hard to knock out an over carb situation, but you can't put more carb in a flat beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-27T16:13:47.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2010-05-27T20:00:52.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without doubt, How To Brew, by John Palmer has been the biggest help to me in starting brewing. It is easy to start off with and then intriduces more complexity. A book I constantly go back to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="543" LastActivityDate="2010-05-27T20:00:52.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2127" CreationDate="2010-05-28T20:19:43.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;PJ's link above is the answer.  Only thing I'd mention is that plenty of places sell all grain kits as well (Northern Brewer, MoreBeer, etc.).  I think it's a good idea to start with one of their kits.  Once you get your process down, then go on to formulate your own recipes.  IMHO, you're likely to get the best results that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But some people like to just dive into creating their own recipes, and do really well.  Whatever works best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, why not try formulating an extract recipe while you're learning the all grain routine?  All of my best extract brews were based on what I learned from kits but with tweaks here and there (change up the hops, yeast, specialty grains, etc. to what you think will work best--make a few changes and the recipe becomes your own).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-05-28T20:19:43.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2161" CreationDate="2010-05-29T08:23:20.520" Score="1" ViewCount="3656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning an oatmeal stout and read that the mash pH is really important for stouts in general. Which pH should I go for in my oatmeal stout and how can I get to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T17:50:13.433" Title="pH for oatmeal stout and how to get it" Tags="|stout|recipe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2162" CreationDate="2010-05-29T09:30:29.007" Score="5" ViewCount="1507" Body="&lt;p&gt;Homebrew recipes often give information along the lines of &quot;6-8 weeks maturation&quot;. What exactly does maturation mean here in terms of conditions? Is it the same as a secondary? Can the beer &quot;mature&quot; on the yeast? Does it have to be bottled/kegged before maturation starts? Is maturation warm or cold or does that depend on the type of beer (i.e. ale or lager)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastActivityDate="2010-05-29T19:41:42.497" Title="Maturation - what does it mean?" Tags="|techniques|maturation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2159" CreationDate="2010-05-29T14:26:21.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to make sure that your MASH pH stays in the proper range of 5.2-5.5. THis is important for proper enzymatic activity in the mash.  Dark roasted malts and drop the pH as they tend to be more acidic than lighter malts.  That drop of pH can effect the enzymes responsible for starch to sugar conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;pH is not something that is a concern for flavor of an oatmeal stout specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you suspect you are going to have pH issues (due to some weird brewing water chemistry) then you need to adjust your mash process.  The easiest thing to do would be to mash the grist minus the dark malts.  Then during the sparge mix the crushed malts into the surface gently to get them wet.  Then sparging over the top of the grain bed will pull the color and flavors through the mash.  At that point the pH is less of a concern because the conversion is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-29T14:26:21.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2160" CreationDate="2010-05-29T19:41:42.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the use of the term maturation comes after a period of &quot;conditioning/carbonating&quot; then I take it to mean just letting the beer get some age on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often there are some styles of beer that do well to just sit around for a period of time.  I don't always think it means on the yeast, but in the case of a bottle conditioned beer there will be some yeast in there.  Actually all homebrew still has yeast in it unless filtered out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd just take the time onto the carbonating process.  But for any beer you make you should be sampling it on a weekly basis to see if the &quot;maturation&quot; process is needed, or for how long.  Each batch of homebrew seems to have a time when it peaks, and that isn't necessarily the day after its completely carbed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-05-29T19:41:42.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2165" CreationDate="2010-05-30T04:42:55.513" Score="4" ViewCount="7228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been boiling my water prior to brewing (extract), and pouring this whilst still hot into my plastic barrel figuring the boiling water will make sure anything that survived the sanitisation is properly dead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm not sure how safe this is. Is the (near) boiling water going to cause anything nasty to leach out of the plastic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2010-05-30T15:24:21.573" Title="Boiling water and plastic equipment" Tags="|sanitation|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2163" CreationDate="2010-05-30T14:42:14.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your plastic container is food grade, you should be okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="342" LastActivityDate="2010-05-30T14:42:14.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2163" CreationDate="2010-05-30T15:24:21.573" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maggie is right, if you are using a food grade plastic it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have to say that what you are doing with the boiling water essentially an unnecessary step and may be actually increasing your chances of infection, not decreasing them.  Hear me out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiling water doesn't stay boiling very long once off the heat.  You can't heat the bucket itself enough to be that effective because its plastic and can melt, plus plastic is a lousy conductor.  Plus, if you are doing it prior to actually brewing well then its totally ineffective.  Leave the sanitizer in the barrel until right before you are ready to pour in the cooled wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that, when you rinse it with boiling water, you remove what little sanitizer was left clinging to the surface of the vessel.  Any airborne critters then get a free ride as soon as you pour out the boiling water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must learn to trust your sanitizer.  We all do. If sanitizer alone isn't enough, then we are screwed anyway.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trust me, I know exactly how you feel.  We all want sterilization, not sanitization and we have all gone to extraordinary lengths to try to get there.  The rationalization is this:  It couldn't hurt, it might help, and ultimately it makes us feel better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is some good reasons to trust your sanitizer and not take steps like a boiling water rinse afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it adds time. The longer brewing takes, the easier it is to rush and make a mistake.  All that time boiling and handling (which is dangerous anyway) boiling water could be spent ensuring your sanitizer is measured properly, and that equipment gets the 1 to 2 minute soak required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, it may have unintended consequences, like possible plastic leech and spilled boiling water on your feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, (this was the hardest for me) we all have to realize that steps like boiling water rinse have more to do with making ourselves feel good about sanitization than they do with any real benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the time spent doing that could be better spent making sure things are clean and sanitized.  Lets face it, sanitizer is cheap.  It is probably the cheapest thing on a per-gallon basis we buy for home brewing.  Use lots of it, take the time to learn to get the concentrations right and know your proper soak time for your favorite sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-05-30T15:24:21.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2010-05-31T16:48:52.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a Grape Nuts triple last year at 9.42% which was awesome. The cereal was in the mash and the characteristics were evident when poured. Awesome aroma. I used two boxes. I'm making an IPA today with two boxes of Golden Crisp. Very excited about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="matt" LastActivityDate="2010-05-31T16:48:52.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2010-05-31T16:53:55.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;in the words of our &quot;father&quot; 'Relax; don't worry, have a homebrew' I think it will be just fine as you have conceptualized it. Brew it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="matt" LastActivityDate="2010-05-31T16:53:55.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2500" CreationDate="2010-06-01T11:49:46.667" Score="2" ViewCount="763" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much honey do you need to put into a beer recipe before you can really call it a braggot?  I am sure the taste is largely subjective.&#xA;I want to brew a beer with 1/3 Honey, 1/3 2-row, 1/3 wheat.  I guess I could call that a braggot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T04:02:49.440" Title="Brewing a braggot." Tags="|beer-styles|honey|techniques|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2171" CreationDate="2010-06-01T12:04:04.250" Score="3" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on brewing up a handful of quasi-pale ales using only a single hop varietal per batch.  The goal is to get a feel for the bittering, flavor and aroma of some varieties I want to understand better.&#xA;I was thinking of a schedule like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60min-35IBU&lt;br&gt;&#xA;20min-15IBU&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5min-5IBU&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Dry Hop- (1oz)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll figure the IBUs base upon the Alpha content of each variety I plan to use, which is why I didn't list it in ounces.  Except for the dry hop, which will really contirbute no IBUs and why the 5min is so low in IBUs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to shoot for a 1.048-1.052 OG beer brewed with 90% 2-row, 5% Crystal 60L, and 5% Victory malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the question?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Should I drop the 5 minute and just go with more dryhop?&#xA;And should I change the time on the flavor addition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-01T13:42:26.417" Title="Hop schedule for Single hop ale brewing" Tags="|hops|hop-utilization|dry-hop|experiments|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2172" CreationDate="2010-06-01T13:25:10.557" Score="2" ViewCount="644" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a beer over a month ago.  Rather than taking 3-5 days to ferment, it took over 20.  After fermentation finished, I took a gravity reading and it fell from 1.040(ish) to 1.010(ish)... Primed, bottled, and gave it a good 2 weeks to carbonate.  Opened the first one, and the hiss was much shorter and when I poured it, it was almost uncarbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand this, because the smack-pack was fully swollen when I pitched it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I have aerated poorly or not at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="106" LastEditDate="2010-06-01T15:13:41.320" LastActivityDate="2010-07-27T23:23:38.670" Title="What are the symptoms of poor aeration?" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2169" CreationDate="2010-06-01T13:42:26.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a great exercise.  Months ago I brewed a single hop brown ale and now I can identify Northern Brewer hops.  That beer was a single bittering addition at 90 minutes, but the idea is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would keep the aroma addition where it is.  Boiling and dry hopping work differently so you might miss out on something without the last kettle addition.  The flavor addition is also fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-06-01T13:42:26.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2170" CreationDate="2010-06-01T20:34:51.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think, that the slow fermentation could be explained by bad aeration. The yeast will use the oxygen in a well-aerated wort to reproduce and a higher number of cells will ferment a lot more dynamically. I have had fermentations creeping along very slowly until I aerated once more and suddenly it worked just fine. Also, I have found that even the the activator-packs actually benefit from preparing a starter with them.&#xA;I agree, that the lack of carbonation must have a different reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastActivityDate="2010-06-01T20:34:51.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2174" CreationDate="2010-06-02T01:38:18.097" Score="3" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a few issues finding food-grade plastic tubing to use a racking tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is normal clear PVC tubing that you'd get at a hardware store okay for this? (Once it's been sterilized etc of course)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sterilizing these, is it okay to boil them in the microwave for a few minutes, or is the plastic too soft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2010-06-02T03:16:58.653" Title="Is normal PVC tubing okay for a racking tube?" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2173" CreationDate="2010-06-02T03:16:58.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The PVC clear tubing I buy at the hardware store is the same spool my LHBS has. It's designed for water use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I buy it at the LHBS to support him, but since he's 25 minutes across town, I only do that if it's convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the tubing, don't boil it. You can't achieve sterilization anyway, from a practical standpoint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with hot soapy water, get it good and clean then rinse well with hot water from the tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then sanitize with your favorite no-rinse sanitizer. (One-Step, StarSan, Idophor, etc..) Remember to leave it in contact, inside and outside, for the prescribed time based on the sanitizer.  Most are 60 to 120 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-06-02T03:16:58.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2176" CreationDate="2010-06-03T12:17:36.943" Score="14" ViewCount="2271" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I kicked my first Corny keg and need to get the keg and the system cleaned and ready for another batch, which might not be ready for some time.  What's my process here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:38:57.853" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T15:56:14.600" Title="My keg is empty. Now what?" Tags="|techniques|kegging|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2175" CreationDate="2010-06-03T13:06:25.337" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to rinse well, then soak in warm PBW (or cleaner of choice).  I fill the keg with cleaner, put on the lid and shake really well.  Then I remove the lid, poppets, O-rings and dip tubes and put them in the keg to soak overnight.&#xA;Next day everything gets a good rinse in warm water.&#xA;I fill the keg with some Starsan (or sanitizer of choice) and let the parts soak for a couple minutes.  Reassemble, seal the lid and shake really well.  Let it sit for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I hook it up to the gas and beverage lines and blow out the starsan leaving the keg sealed.  Then I just leave it like that until I am ready for the next beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any remaining foam in the keg will settle out as liquid.  When ready to refill, open the top and I pour out that liquid with a bit of a swirl to help resanitize the opening at the lip a little bit.  Then rack beer in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to kegging happiness, IMO, is having empty kegs cleaned and sanitizes right away.  Then you don't have to go looking for cleaner and sanitizer the day your next batch is ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-03T13:06:25.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2175" CreationDate="2010-06-03T13:31:44.053" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First, shed a little tear for the empty keg.  Then get excited about the next beer to fill it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not as methodical as brewchez.  There are four dirty kegs sitting open in my garage right now.  As you can imagine the leftover beer gets pretty dry and cakey.  Never a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Clean&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PBW and it's ilk are my cleaner of choice.  Put a few gallons of hot water &amp;amp; PBW in your keg, swirl and let soak until the gunk comes off.  I do not fill all the way up to the top ring of crud so I usually have to do a little light scrubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disassemble and inspect the posts and tubes.  Remove the lid and O-ring.  I'll sometimes run a pipe cleaner through the dip tube.  Soak everything in the cleaner for good measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For picnic taps, disassemble and clean the beer line.  Regular taps can be cleaned every second or third (or fourth) keg.  Fill a keg with cleaner and push it through with CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Rinse&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With cold water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cleaned your tap lines push some rinse water through them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sanitize&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... with your favorite sanitizer.  Soak the parts.  Dump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Many sanitizers will retain their power if saved in a keg.  I am thinking of making the switch to caustics for this reason.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Seal&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you save sanitizer or dispose of it, reassemble the keg and charge with CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; to seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mark&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people have a &quot;clean tag&quot; for kegs that have been through this process.  I know a keg is clean if it is empty and charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-06-03T13:36:50.713" LastActivityDate="2010-06-03T13:36:50.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2038" CreationDate="2010-06-03T13:54:51.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't done a whole lot of degassing of wines myself, generally if you let them bulk age long enough they degas on their own (which is what I usually do). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an article on degassing that may be informative: &lt;a href=&quot;http://homewinery.info/viewarticle.php?id=46&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://homewinery.info/viewarticle.php?id=46&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you needed to do a lot more stirring to degas your wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard of people using a vacuvin to degas their wine, but that can take a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you might want to try to improve your apple wine is to sweeten it. As long as you have added sorbate you can safely add sugar back to your wine and fermentation won't restart. dissolving sugar into the wine will help undissolve some of the CO2 as well as help cover up other off flavors that may be in the wine. Of course if you don't like semi-sweet or sweet wines, don't do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-06-03T13:54:51.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2010-06-03T14:10:55.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first book I read on winemaking was &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.to/b1LF9M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Way to Make Wine&lt;/a&gt; which was pretty informative and easy to read that goes through the entire process. The author writes specifically about making grape wines but the process generally applies to fruit/country wines as well. It must have been decent since before reading it I had never made wine and now completely I'm addicted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-06-03T14:10:55.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-06-03T15:06:08.513" Score="2" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made an ordinary bitter a while back and it really brought to light why it's served at cellar temperature.  At 55F, it was a bit malty, with nice hops.  At 45F, it was like seltzer. Very drinkable, but why bother?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My kegerator sits at about 45, and I'd like to have a low-gravity and a mid-gravity ale on tap.  What's a session beer that I can serve cold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T19:33:36.403" Title="What's a good session beer to serve cold?" Tags="|temperature|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2180" CreationDate="2010-06-03T17:38:31.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting question.  I find I keep all my beers at 45Fish, I find it just covers the whole range of beers I may have in the kegerator.  I think its just easier to pour one and let it warm up to the perfect temp in the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have only one tap on your kegerator then serve the beer at its best temp; obviously.  So I assume you have more than one keg in the kegerator. Unfortunately, most session beers are going to be mild and delicate in flavor, so serving at 45F seems out for most of them IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to press myself for a style, I'd lean towards wits and other thirst quenching summer style beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-03T17:38:31.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2186" CreationDate="2010-06-03T17:40:02.577" Score="7" ViewCount="786" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the accepted OG and ABV of a session beer?&#xA;What other qualities does a session beer possess?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-03T18:43:39.987" Title="What is a session beer?" Tags="|beer-styles|flavor|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2182" CreationDate="2010-06-03T18:05:01.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if there's an accepted standard or not, like &quot;Must be under 4% ABV&quot; or something. Personally, I define a session beer as something that is not too heavy in flavor or in my belly, that doesn't have too much alcohol. &quot;Too much&quot;, for me, is defined as &quot;I can drink this for many hours in the sun and still communicate with my parents.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-06-03T18:05:01.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2182" CreationDate="2010-06-03T18:15:57.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's subjective.  But basically, it's a beer that you can drink, say, six or eight of over the course of three or four hours and still be able to function normally.  For some people, PBR might be all they can handle in a session.  For others, maybe it's a wee heavy.  I deinitely want the guy who calls Samichlaus a session beer on my side!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-06-03T18:15:57.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-06-03T18:30:26.757" Score="5" ViewCount="1748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a relatively new brewer (couple of years) and I'm on the executive of our local brew club.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone had some great ideas for club meeting topics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have already done a session on this topic perhaps you could include links to online resources etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="2377" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T15:25:54.687" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T15:25:54.687" Title="Club Meeting Ideas" Tags="|club|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2182" CreationDate="2010-06-03T18:43:39.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The definition varies, depending on who you ask (and usually upon their tolerance to alcohol and frequency with which they drink).  But it means you should be able to have a couple and go back to work functioning perfectly well, or several over the course of a day without getting more than a little buzzed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, it should be less than 5%, but my weight is probably a little above average, so for others the 3%-4% range would probably be more appropriate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer Advocate has a good article on the subject, including a little history:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/articles/653&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://beeradvocate.com/articles/653&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-06-03T18:43:39.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2185" CreationDate="2010-06-03T19:05:03.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year I did a dry hop experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a simple extract kit (Brewhouse Pilsner) and fermented five gallons. &#xA;I then split it into five one gallon jugs and added different hop varieties.&#xA;I bottled, and marked carefully&#xA;Our club tasted five different varieties of hops and we (even the newbies) were able to notice the differences in flavor that the different hops made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lessons Learned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I didn't use hopsacks in the 1 gallon jugs, I should have, there was quite a lot of floaties.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-06-03T19:05:03.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2188" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-06-03T19:44:35.410" Score="11" ViewCount="4705" Body="&lt;p&gt;What beer styles tend to work well with a warm (at least 70°F/21°C, possibly up to 90°F/32°C) fermentation environment? In other words, what styles will be best to mask or work with the off-flavors produced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="565" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T15:37:47.290" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T15:37:47.290" Title="Best beer styles for warm fermentation environment?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2188" CreationDate="2010-06-03T19:49:44.140" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most people brewing a Saison is a great summer compatible beer to brew.&#xA;The saison yeast works best at 80F (or 27C).  And the flavor of saison is often citrusy and light.&#xA;You can brew a saison to a variety of OGs for different levels of enjoyment.  You can make a session style saison or a bigger version to pair well with food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this BJCP link to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style16.php#1c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saison&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="14579" LastEditDate="2017-03-30T10:06:23.703" LastActivityDate="2017-03-30T10:06:23.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2185" CreationDate="2010-06-04T13:18:47.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An episode of Basic Brewing Radio had a show a few weeks/months back about a club that did an Iron Chef style of competition.  Pick an ingredient not normally used in brewing (the only one I remember is from the semi-finals was a package of iced oatmeal-raisin cookies).  Have 2 contestants make a beer using it and then the club judges the better beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick a &quot;normal&quot; ingredient, and brew up some sort of super example of that ingredient (hops seem to jump out for this one, but I guess a specialty grain or other adjunct could be used as well).  Either do it as a club (if it's a small club) or as a competition (if the club is large).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-06-04T13:18:47.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2185" CreationDate="2010-06-04T14:01:28.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am the informal president of the local brew club here.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, decide among your members &lt;strong&gt;what you all want to get out of the club&lt;/strong&gt;.  We started out as a group of people that got together and made beer, then became sort of a social club.  Everyone would bring beer and we'd just party.  A few months ago we had a club discussion and decided to be more educational.  Open it up to the members.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a little difficult to start.  Like you I need fresh ideas for the club to do every month.  Furthermore I need to find volunteers to participate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Have something at every meeting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not matter how small they are (as long as most of them are engaging).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Style of the month&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We feature a beer style every month.  Encourage members to brew their own or bring commercial examples.  That opens everyone up discuss the style.  Last fall we had 7 or 8 Oktoberfests and did a very good tasting panel.  It helps homebrewers to announce the style at least two months in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Discussion Topics&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have something to talk about.  This month we discuss aeration techniques.  We had a &lt;strong&gt;water chemistry&lt;/strong&gt; lesson, a &lt;strong&gt;brew-in-a-bag demo&lt;/strong&gt;, and a how-to on &lt;strong&gt;making yeast starters in a ziploc bag&lt;/strong&gt;.  In the beginning it may be only things you are interested in, but other members will pick it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Do big things every once in a while&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every few months have a bigger club event.  Brew-ins are usually successful - everyone brings their equipment somewhere and we make beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our club got a wine barrel from a local winery and we had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.deanandadie.net/tag/barrel/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;club filling day&lt;/a&gt; where we put 55 gallons of RIS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My previous had a yearly brewery tour by bus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think once you get going the ideas will come on their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-06-04T14:01:28.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2180" CreationDate="2010-06-04T16:08:45.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At that temp I would probably go for a Weissbier or pilsner. For ales, maybe a citrussy APA or steam beer. My keggerator is at about the same temp, ideally I would like it to be up around 50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="543" LastActivityDate="2010-06-04T16:08:45.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2180" CreationDate="2010-06-04T20:47:37.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to do a cream ale which would be best served very cold.  Nice hot summer day beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-06-04T20:47:37.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1115" CreationDate="2010-06-05T14:37:30.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Malta Goya (a non-alcoholic malt based drink) can be purchased in 7oz brown glass bottles; I'm pretty sure that they're pry-top bottles.  It's fairly widely available, and can often be had for less than 50 cents a bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9wk6y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Malta soft drink photo, Wikimedia Commons.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="nmcconnell" LastEditorUserId="1736" LastEditDate="2012-09-10T18:51:56.917" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T18:51:56.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2197" CreationDate="2010-06-06T12:50:41.500" Score="6" ViewCount="5978" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has been bothering me for a while and I looked it up using google. The only related search result was this thread &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-big-your-mash-tun-needs-123585/&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-big-your-mash-tun-needs-123585/&lt;/a&gt; which, besides stating the obvious (mash tun size is a function of both the batch size you wish to brew as well as the gravities you wish to achieve), used to feature a chart using which you could find the ideal size of your own personal mash tun. Does anyone have this chart, know where one can find it or have some equivalent solution to these calculations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-06-07T12:49:21.107" Title="What's the ideal size for a mash tun?" Tags="|mash-tun|equipment|calculations|all-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2196" CreationDate="2010-06-07T11:59:51.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to the thread and the chart is there.  Are you referring to a different chart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make 5 gallon batches typically under 1.060 OG you mash tun only needs to be a little over 4.5 gallons in size.  I got to this figure assuming 12lbs 2-row at 70% efficiency to get 6 gallons of 1.060 wort (preboil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you then assume that you may on occasion want to make 10 gallons of your favorite recipe you'll need a mash tun closer to 10 gallons (40 quarts).  If you have a 10 gallon mash tun, then you'll be able to mash ANY graivity you want for 5 gallon batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember the chart you are talking about, but I don't think it necessary.  You can do the math yourself, however I think that a 40quart mash tun fits most people just fine.  I have a 50quart &quot;cube&quot; cooler for a tun and it works great for almost all volumes of mashing I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-06-07T12:49:21.107" LastActivityDate="2010-06-07T12:49:21.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2185" CreationDate="2010-06-07T13:42:05.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local club has a regular schedule of tasting commercial beers of a certain style one month, then brewing the style and judging the homebrews the next month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every once and a while the local brewery even agrees to make a commercial batch of the winning brew that month and serve it in their restaurant (assuming that the winner actually tastes good and isn't just the lesser of all evils). They even let the winners choose the beer's name and come to the brewery to help with the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-06-07T13:42:05.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2245" CreationDate="2010-06-07T14:26:32.437" Score="3" ViewCount="697" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can open fermentation be done simply by putting the fermenting beer in a bucket carboy and covering it with foil?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The purpose of the foil would be to just keep airborne contaminants from falling into the wort.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Despite being &quot;covered&quot; with foil I would think that any restriction on the head space would be negligible compared to an air lock.  So I don't think it would be much different than having a bucket wide open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering this because I don't have an area that is clean enough to just let something sit open for a fermentation.  Especially, if I want it to be in a temperature controlled environment like a fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-16T20:52:44.783" Title="Open Fermentation Process" Tags="|fermentation|equipment|techniques|open-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-06-08T18:46:22.487" Score="3" ViewCount="7145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking around for some low-cost alternatives to conical fermenters, and I came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tank-depot.com/product.aspx?id=854&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;inductor tanks&lt;/a&gt;.  Has anyone used or heard of someone using these tanks?  Is there any danger/downside to using them (aside from scratching the inside and risking contamination)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're made out of medium-density polyethylene, is this the same material &quot;Ale Pails&quot; are made of?  For around $55 for a 15 gallon, this seems like a really cheap way to get into making larger batches (as opposed to the $600 NB chargers for a 15 gallon stainless).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-06-28T13:25:34.173" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T21:43:55.347" Title="Low Cost Conical Fermenter" Tags="|fermenter|conical-fermenter|plastic|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2200" CreationDate="2010-06-08T18:55:29.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ale Pales are normally HDPE (high density polyethylene), for what its worth.&#xA;You could always ferment in a half barrel for 10-12 gallon sized batches for cheaper than the NB conical, but maybe not cheaper than $55 for one of those plastic conicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-08T18:55:29.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2200" CreationDate="2010-06-08T19:20:23.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those would be perfect, one of the biggest home brew shops in the UK sells a range of plastic conical fermenters like these. As stated the risk would be in getting a scratch and thus an infection. But if you are careful with it you should get 2-3 years out of it. For $55 I think its a no-brainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="543" LastActivityDate="2010-06-08T19:20:23.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2199" CreationDate="2010-06-08T19:23:05.813" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;traditionally open fermentation meant open. It was said about some of the old belgium ales that you could smell the farmyard off them! Not sure if using foil would allow enough exposure to ensure that you get fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="543" LastActivityDate="2010-06-08T19:23:05.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-06-09T07:11:48.683" Score="9" ViewCount="1752" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some sanitisers, like star-san, chemipro oxi and betadine are no-rinse in certain dilutions. Star-san can additionaly be kept diluted in a bottle for months and used whenever one wishes. Can the same be done with the other two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-06-17T15:55:32.470" Title="Keeping a bottle of no-rinse sanitiser" Tags="|sanitation|equipment|conditioning|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2010-06-09T09:16:50.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can recommend &lt;em&gt;Making Table Wine at Home&lt;/em&gt;, published by the &#xA;University of California, Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources. &#xA;It covers all basics, with a good mix of scientific background and focus on practical issues, making it a good place to start for the ambitious beginner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://wineserver.ucdavis.edu/content.php?category=Winemaking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pdf version&lt;/a&gt; available online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Bert" LastActivityDate="2010-06-09T09:16:50.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2185" CreationDate="2010-06-09T12:38:11.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that a club can do better than individual brewers is experiment.  If several brewers use the same recipe but compare two techniques you can address some myths, legends or facts about homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you can get 4 brewers to make a beer with directly pitching one packet of dry yeast, then you can get 4 brewers to make the same recipe after rehydrating the yeast. Then you can dedicate a club night to tasting the beers and commenting.  You generate a lot of data, get people brewing things differently.  There are all sorts of experiments like that you could do.  Chill or no chill, sparge or no sparge, FWHing, dryhopping with and with out bags, boiling with and with out bags....etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your club has a website you can post the results and pics and get more recognition for your club too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chris Colby and the folks at BYO are always looking for people to do that type of stuff so they have new things to publish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-09T12:38:11.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1953" CreationDate="2010-06-09T13:33:10.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The owner of our lhbs informed me that he has always used batch sparging.  According to the medals on his wall and his website he's won the following awards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;National Champion 1999 American Homebrewers Contest in the Strong Ale category&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1st place Eastern Regional AHA competition 1997 Rauchbier category &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3rd place Eastern Regional AHA competition 1998 German Bock category &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1st place Dominion Cup Belgian Ale category 1996 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2nd place Great Arizona Beer Festival 2000 Classic Pilsner category&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll double check with him next time I'm in there to make sure I have my facts straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; He also just won the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hsbeer.com/letter-marque-homebrew-contest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;High Seas Brewing Letter of Marque Homebrew Contest&lt;/a&gt; so his beer will be brewed and served throughout 2011 at High Seas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-07-07T11:15:52.737" LastActivityDate="2010-07-07T11:15:52.737" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-06-09T13:33:10.610" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1115" CreationDate="2010-06-09T13:53:30.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Corsendonk Christmas Ale comes in ~8 ounce bottles.  The foil wrapper around the neck is kind of hard to get off, but I think it's totally worth it to have some small bottles on hand.  I use them for testing carbonation levels when the beer is young.  If it's not ripe yet I only &quot;wasted&quot; 8 ounces and not 12, 16, or 22 ounces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I say &quot;wasted&quot; in quotes because I'm definitely drinking it nonetheless.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-06-09T13:53:30.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-06-09T13:53:55.817" Score="5" ViewCount="1872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently on vacation and I toured a brewpub in the Chicago area.  I was surprised to find out that they are extract brewers.  Is this common practice for small brewpubs?  Would this place a limit on caliber of beer you could produce?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-06-16T16:26:58.407" Title="Can extract brewing achieve professional results?" Tags="|extract|brewpub|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2010-06-09T14:24:23.183" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think its common practice, but there are several extract breweries out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important factor influencing beer quality at the homebrew and the professional level is fermentation control.  That includes temperatures, ptiching rate and yeast health and management.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These things would be the same for an extract brewery or an all grain brewery.  I am certain then that if those aspects are being mastered there is not limit to the quality of the beer they can produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only limitations with extracts is recipes that require the addition of mashed adjuncts or of ingredients (oats or other flaked cereals come to mind).  Extract brewing limits the amount of control you have over the wort's mash profile.  You can always thin an extract a bit with sugars or careful control of pure amylase enzyme additions.  However, the opposite is a bit tougher; although I am sure you could order pure dextrins and the like to boost body if need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you amend the styles of beer you want to put out of your brew house, there is no reason to think you can't produce award winning beer with extracts at any scale of operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-09T14:24:23.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2010-06-09T14:24:46.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of one place in the entire San Francisco Bay Area, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pacificcoastbrewing.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pacific Coast Brewing Co&lt;/a&gt;, that brews extract beers.  The brewhouse is tiny.  They've been doing it that way for 20 years.  Many of their beers were decorated with bronze &amp;amp; silver medals from GABF in the mid-90s.  While uncommon, you can make good beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I visited Oakland in 2008 to judge the Sam Adams Longshot competition right across the street from Pacific Coast.  I was not impressed with their beers and most of the other judges poo-pooed them for brewing extract.  People who know beer may turn up their noses when they find out your brewpub &quot;cheats&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-06-09T14:24:46.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2215" CreationDate="2010-06-09T14:27:20.107" Score="4" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building an recirc arm for my chilling set up.  Should my recirc have a gentle bend in it to 90degrees or would it be OK to just use a 90degree elbow of a piece of straight pipe under the wort surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-14T13:12:50.523" Title="Recirculating wort chiller" Tags="|chilling|equipment|chiller|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2214" CreationDate="2010-06-09T17:57:31.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a physicist, but I'd imagine you'd rather have a graceful bend in it.  With a 90, I could see the wort slowing down at the bend.  If I didn't have flexible pipe from which I could make a gentle bend, I'd consider using two 45's with a small piece in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full disclosure: I don't have a wort chiller; I'm just theorizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-06-09T17:57:31.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2218" CreationDate="2010-06-09T18:52:46.323" Score="6" ViewCount="8270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at getting a kegerator since bottling kinda sucks.  I'm on Amazon and they have a fridge that can take:&quot;1/2 barrels / Full Size Kegs (15.5gal), 1/4 barrels / Ponies (7.75gal)&quot;.  I've only heard of corny kegs being used with homebrew.  What's the difference between a corny and a pony keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-06-10T00:47:17.603" Title="What's the difference between a corny keg and a pony keg?" Tags="|keg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2216" CreationDate="2010-06-09T19:31:33.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ponies, generally, are just tall, skinny quarter-barrels.  They look like corny kegs, but have Sankey, or other commercial beer fittings.  Sometimes the standard squat quarter barrel is also referred to as a &quot;pony&quot; keg.  I think that designation is largely regional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cornelius kegs come from the commercial soft drink industry and are usually 5 gallons, although there are 2.5 gallon, 3 gallon and I have seen a 7 gallon Corny keg.  Anything but the five is rare and I would have called the 7 a rumor if I hadn't seen one once.  But only once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-06-09T19:31:33.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2216" CreationDate="2010-06-09T19:39:49.903" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always thought standard quarter barrels were ponies.  And according to Micromatic a Pony Keg IS a standard quarter barrel.  The tall quarters are called &quot;slim quarters&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.micromatic.com/beer-questions/sizes-keg-draft-beer-available-aid-11.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Micromatic Chart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.micromatic.com/images/articles/11/Kegs-new.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://www.micromatic.com/images/articles/11/Kegs-new.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.757" LastActivityDate="2010-06-09T19:39:49.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2216" CreationDate="2010-06-10T00:47:17.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used sanke (the family of kegs pony's fall into) or corny kegs, so those of you who have correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the reason that home brewers use corny's is because they are a lot easier to clean and sanitize compared to standard beer kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Husky Homebrew" LastActivityDate="2010-06-10T00:47:17.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2035" CreationDate="2010-06-11T14:01:00.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran across good advice on another site for using the gelatin when fining the beer.  Presumably just before bottling, but I don't know.  Still reading up on the subject. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link below is 404-ed. It does have a record in the Wayback Machine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20120204042116/https://byo.com/stories/wizard/article/section/121-mr-wizard/1687-would-fining-with-gelatin-have-an-adverse-effect-on-naturally-conditioned-beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://web.archive.org/web/20120204042116/https://byo.com/stories/wizard/article/section/121-mr-wizard/1687-would-fining-with-gelatin-have-an-adverse-effect-on-naturally-conditioned-beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="KO" LastEditorUserId="16361" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T18:02:05.017" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T18:02:05.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2109" CreationDate="2010-06-14T03:28:50.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Briess makes gluten-free malt substitutes.  That particular product page is here: --&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Products/GF_Syrups.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Products/GF_Syrups.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="KO" LastActivityDate="2010-06-14T03:28:50.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2214" CreationDate="2010-06-14T13:12:50.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 90 degree elbow would restrict the flow a little bit, but I'm not sure that you would notice any difference.  It also depends on the flow you're trying to achieve.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.flaminio.net/blogs/index.php/beer/HERMS/recirculating_pump&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a link&lt;/a&gt; to a guy that did use a 90 degree arm (not sure if this is exactly what you're trying to do or not).  If you're thinking about bending it by hand to achieve the gradual 90 degree elbow, you'll have a much higher risk of restricting the flow by partially flattening out the tube.  In my opinion, the 90 degree elbows look a lot cleaner and would provide a little more strength on the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-06-14T13:12:50.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2226" CreationDate="2010-06-14T14:38:08.230" Score="12" ViewCount="14393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing in my kitchen using a giant stockpot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brother (my brewing partner) was thinking about picking up propane top and moving it outside. I think that it would be better to use an induction cooktop instead. He had heard from someone however that induction wasn't good for brewing, but we have no evidence of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any opinions on using induction cooktops for brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T14:22:08.947" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T14:22:08.947" Title="Using a Induction cooktop" Tags="|equipment|kettle|induction-heating|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2223" CreationDate="2010-06-14T16:24:40.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you can get a good rolling boil with about 8-12% evaporation rate per hour then there is nothing wrong with an induction cooktop.  Just my $0.02.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-06-14T16:24:40.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2223" CreationDate="2010-06-14T17:00:04.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat is heat; the source is somewhat meaningless when you first start brewing.&#xA;The key is that you are happy with how long it takes to get up to a boil, and that you don't scorch wort in the bottom of the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many brewers move outside with a propane cooker because the propane burner is a bit faster to get things boiling which shortens the brew day.  If you are boiling a full batch of wort (5 gallons or more) many standard induction cook tops just can't handle that level of heating in a reasonable period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-14T17:00:04.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2223" CreationDate="2010-06-14T18:24:12.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've actually been thinking about getting one myself since I too currently use my electric range.  It would be nice to have the super fast boil times of gas but the even heating of electric, not to mention you can brew indoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the major concern would be in controlling the temperature.  I've seen some induction burners with only 1 or 2 heat settings (basically a hot plate), while I've seen others with a lot more control.  One with less control might be more difficult if you need to hold the water at a certain temp since you'd have to just be turning it on and off to regulate the temperature.  However, for this same reason it would be a lot easier to automate than a propane burner if that lies in your future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Brewchez is correct, that the results of this test could be misleading, so I removed it.  For instance they were using a gas stove-top rather than a propane turkey fryer, which would definitely have provided different boil times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking around a bit however, I did find something &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/induction-heating-element-71519/index2.html#post856505&quot;&gt;written by a guy who actually brews with induction&lt;/a&gt; which might provide you with some insight:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes they work with SOME stainless&#xA;  steel pots, not most though. We bought&#xA;  our first unit at a cooking store and&#xA;  paid ~$200. Of course then we had to&#xA;  buy some more cookware as my favorite&#xA;  SS pots weren't ferrous enough. We&#xA;  hunted a long time for a pasta pot&#xA;  that wasn't $$$$$. We used to go to&#xA;  kitchen stores and grab a fridge&#xA;  magnet to check the pots with. I've&#xA;  learned where to go now for pots that&#xA;  are relatively inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One day we were in our local Target&#xA;  store and were checking out the&#xA;  clearance sections at the ends of the&#xA;  aisles and we saw two induction&#xA;  cookers for $35 each. Needless to say&#xA;  they both immediately went into our&#xA;  cart. One nice feature is that they&#xA;  are extremely portable. All you need&#xA;  is a 110 V outlet. It is nice in the&#xA;  summer to cook outside and not heat up&#xA;  the house. Particularly for things&#xA;  like boiling pasta. They are a blast&#xA;  to cook with. It is very similar to&#xA;  gas. Instant heat when you want it and&#xA;  instantly off when you want it.&#xA;  Extremely uniform heating in the&#xA;  bottom of the pot. They do draw a fair&#xA;  bit of power. You can't operate it on&#xA;  the same circuit as a microwave (in&#xA;  use) of a airconditioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now my units don't have enough power&#xA;  to boil 6.5 gal. of wort. I use&#xA;  propane for that. I use one two heat&#xA;  my mash tun, and one to heat my hot&#xA;  liqour pot. They work fabulously for&#xA;  this. Step mashes are a breeze. I use&#xA;  the aluminized bubble wrap for&#xA;  insulation and do not have to worry&#xA;  about melting it. It is a very uniform&#xA;  heating so scorching is a non issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like he couldn't boil 6 gallons, but if you read on he's also using a 1400 watt unit.  If you do decide to go with induction, just remember, the more wattage, the faster it can boil water, so I would try to get one that can get up to 3000 watts or so at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-06-15T17:48:18.573" LastActivityDate="2010-06-15T17:48:18.573" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-06-14T21:39:09.127" Score="22" ViewCount="51415" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first home brew beer is ready to be bottled but I've been busy and haven't gotten around to it yet. The beer was in a primary fermenter for 2 weeks, then I racked it into a secondary fermenter (carboy with airlock) where it has been for about 3 weeks now. Do I need to bottle it immediately or can it sit in the secondary for another week or so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:54:23.107" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T13:16:33.797" Title="How long can I leave beer in the secondary fermenter?" Tags="|process|secondary|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2227" CreationDate="2010-06-14T22:45:53.890" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fine. It's just sitting there, minding it's own business. I've been busy and left beer in carboys for longer than that, and it turns out fine. I think Brew Your Own (byo.com) did some experiments on this and found no ill effects, as long as it's kept clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-06-14T22:45:53.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2227" CreationDate="2010-06-15T12:14:06.993" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let it ride for as long as you want.  Keep in mind that the beer is aging and depending on its style and storage temp it may peak in flavor while you are off doing other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you protect it from light and keep it as cool as possible (&amp;lt;70F-75F-ish) it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing for storing beer in a carboy would also be to ensure there was an shot of CO2 on the surface after you racked it into secondary. But unless you are a kegger already you may not have that option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-15T12:14:06.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2223" CreationDate="2010-06-15T21:19:56.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done this for my first batch (extract). It is &lt;strong&gt;not recommended&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/products?q=sunpentown+induction&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;ei=FewXTKX_CYW8lQeghrnUCw&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;oi=product_result_group&amp;amp;ct=title&amp;amp;resnum=1&amp;amp;ved=0CDQQrQQwAA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this model&lt;/a&gt;, which has a big-looking cooking area, but only actually heats about a four-inch circle in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat is great. It doesn't heat up your house. It gets 85% efficiency. I calculated the watts to BTU's and it does get the efficiency they claim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hot spot on the pot scorched the wort right above it, then somehow let liquid wort under the scorch, so my wort was filled with little sheets of burnt wort. The beer turned out okay, but this is obviously not an ideal heat source for wort. I tested it against my gas stove and it wasn't anywhere near as fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will use it for heating strike water, especially in summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-06-15T21:19:56.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2232" CreationDate="2010-06-16T14:50:05.543" Score="13" ViewCount="18528" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say you were aiming for 1.047 but only hit 1.032. In a 5 gallon batch, how much malt extract would you need to add to the fermenter to bring it up to the desired gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T18:39:08.627" Title="Didn't hit gravity--how to calculate how much malt extract to add to the fermenter?" Tags="|specific-gravity|original-gravity|extract|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2231" CreationDate="2010-06-16T15:33:05.320" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we steal the numbers from &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/569/what-is-the-conversion-rate-between-dry-malt-extract-dme-and-liquid-malt-extrac&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, we can assume that liquid malt extract has a value of about 37 points per pound per gallon, and dry has about 44. This is not exact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;total gravity points needed = Desired total gravity - current total gravity&#xA;total gravity points needed = 47 * 5 (desired reading * desired volume) - 37 * 5 (current reading * current volume)&#xA;total gravity points needed = 235 - 185&#xA;total gravity points needed = 50&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we talk about total gravity, we don't need to worry about the effect in volume. The amount of sugar in 50 gallons of water is the same as if you boil it down to 1 gallon. It's total gravity, or total sugar content, essentially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you need to add 50 points to the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Dry = 50 / 44 = 1.14 lbs&#xA;Liquid = 50 / 37 = 1.35 lbs&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my math is right. But it's early :) The numbers will honestly depend on the manufacturer of your malt, but you can plug in those numbers instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if that all makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-06-16T15:33:05.320" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2231" CreationDate="2010-06-16T15:47:29.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 lb of Dry extract will add 44 points per gallon (potential = 1.044), or 8.8 points in 5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;47-32 = 15 points needed to get where you want to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15/8.8 ~ 1.7 lb of DME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a mini-wort - boil and cool the DME in as little water as possible and then add it to the fermenter slowly to minimalize the splash factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Pat" LastActivityDate="2010-06-16T15:47:29.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2227" CreationDate="2010-06-16T16:19:07.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well now, it all depends on your sanitation! If you were careful and sanitary while a) cooling your wort, b) racking to primary, and c) racking to secondary, the beer can stay in secondary for a lot longer than you think! Lagering and cold conditioning are basically long-term secondaries, after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just keep the temperatures low and keep it protected from light, and make sure the airlock stays full - it's easy to forget about that when it's been sitting for a few weeks. Happened to a carboy of a beautiful cherry-smoked hefe I brewed once...well, I'm guessing that it would've been beautiful, because by the time I got to it it smelled like old gym socks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personal pet peeve with the term &quot;secondary fermentation&quot; - except for really big beers, there is rarely any fermentation happening in secondary. I like to call it brightening or conditioning, but I'm weird like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-06-16T16:19:07.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2010-06-16T16:26:58.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the number of beer competition medals won by both commercial and homebrew extract beers proves that you can certainly brew excellent beer from extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I think you do have to have a bit more advanced technique than an all-extract homebrewer might use. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use full volume boils (no topping off)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a partial mash/mini mash with specialty grains to add complexity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a good source for the freshest extract you can possibly find&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try techniques such as late-boil extract additions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extract doesn't have to mean simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-06-16T16:26:58.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2204" CreationDate="2010-06-16T16:38:53.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, Chemipro Oxi I would not consider a sanitizer...cleaner, sure, but it is essentially sodium percarbonate - it technically CAN be used to sanitize, but the amount needed makes it pretty uneconomical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Betadine, on the other hand, can be used for years...bottles may have an expiration date (typically required on medical-type solutions), but it can be ignored. The rules for use would be the same as StarSan, which is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diluted StarSan or Betadine cannot be used indefinitely - it depends on the pH of the solution. For effective sanitizing, you want the pH to be below 5. Homebrew and aquarium stores sell disposable pH test strips, or you can buy a pH meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually just refill my spray bottle of sanitizer whenever I make up a new batch. If it has been awhile, I test the pH or just make up a fresh bottle. Better safe than sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-06-16T16:38:53.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2023" CreationDate="2010-06-16T16:47:02.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definitely go with dry yeast - it is cheaper, and will contribute no additional flavor to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go with about 10% of the amount of yeast needed for fermentation. Assuming a 11g packet of yeast, use about 1g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-06-16T16:47:02.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2247" CreationDate="2010-06-16T17:41:20.490" Score="2" ViewCount="827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing a dual brew this weekend. First up will be my Engine 97 Steam Beer (aka California Common - see recipe here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lootcorp.com/recipes/engine-97-steam-beer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lootcorp.com/recipes/engine-97-steam-beer.html&lt;/a&gt; - credit for original goes to Jamil Zainasheff). I'll be pitching a nice, fresh yeast slurry of WL San Francisco Lager yeast (a really versatile and clean hybrid ale/lager yeast, very good stuff). I like to ferment this beer @ 58*F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second batch will be another Jamil recipe - Chocolate Hazelnut Robust Porter (don't have the recipe handy, sorry). I was thinking of using the same yeast, since I have a bunch of slurry, but trying to ferment it warmer to get some esters (like, 68*F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a chest freezer I can ferment both batches at once in, but I will obviously need to pick one temp or another. So do I go for 68 for the porter, allowing for some esters in my Cal Common? Or go 58, making the Cal Common happy but maybe losing flavor in the porter? Shoot for the middle ground of 63?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-06-17T14:11:48.127" Title="Which fermentation temperature should I favor?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|yeast|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2250" CreationDate="2010-06-16T18:13:43.653" Score="5" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know, this one is out of left field, but the concept of fermented tea is pretty interesting, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kombucha#Brew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;process&lt;/a&gt; (obligatory Wikipedia link) doesn't seem too foreign to homebrewers (of beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not one to buy into the medicinal &quot;benefits&quot;, but the chilled beverage is generally pretty tasty, if not too sour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone tried it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2010-06-21T21:54:48.120" Title="Ever brew Kombucha?" Tags="|tea|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2244" CreationDate="2010-06-16T18:23:13.837" Score="3" ViewCount="1682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received a Barley Crusher mill - is the default roller setting sufficient for most grain types, or do I need to worry about adjusting it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys change roller spacing based on what grain you mill (i.e. barley vs wheat) or just keep it the same and crush away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-12-21T17:52:58.217" Title="What gap should I set my mill's rollers to?" Tags="|mill|grain|all-grain|crush|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2239" CreationDate="2010-06-16T19:59:19.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really tough spread there. If you are really willing to sacrifice one for the other I'd go for the cooler temp and favor the Cal common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you considered the use of a swamp cooler for the porter?  That way maybe you can get a good yeast profile for both beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-16T19:59:19.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2242" CreationDate="2010-06-16T20:01:17.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The default should be fine for most all applications. I have heard of people driving the wheat through twice, without going through the exercise of changing the mill regularly.  Not because its hard but because sometimes you forget and next time you screw up your crush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-16T20:01:17.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2199" CreationDate="2010-06-16T20:52:44.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I've done an open fermentation like this for wine. Left a 6G plastic bucket of wine open for primary, covered with some sanitized plastic wrap. Had other problems with the wine (it was neglected for awhile in some hot temperatures, but that's another story!) but the primary turned out just fine. Go for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you could tent the foil (or even build a little &quot;top hat&quot; out of foil) on top of the bucket, allowing even more headspace room while still keeping stuff from falling into your beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-06-16T20:52:44.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2239" CreationDate="2010-06-17T14:11:48.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to suggest keeping one out of the cooler, depending on the temperature of your basement/cellar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're in CT I'd guess (based on geography, not experience) that your cellar temps would be in the mid to high 60's, so that should be good for your porter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-06-17T14:11:48.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2204" CreationDate="2010-06-17T15:55:32.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chemipro Oxi can be used as a sanitiser, however it is not listed as one (as far as I have heard) because in Belgium you have to pay special taxes for sanitisers, while cleaners don't have that problem. I contacted brouwland for the above matter, and their response was the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the Chemipro  oxi  exists out of  peroxides, these would react  with impurities but also turn into  water and oxygen as a normal chemical reaction, if diluted and stored in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your idea is not bad, but will not work well for longer periods up to more than 1 day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this, along with Jim's post, concludes it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2010-06-17T15:55:32.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2241" CreationDate="2010-06-19T03:56:00.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew beer, but my wife makes Kombucha and Kefir.  Its much easier than beer, however I wouldn't recommend mixing equipment.  In a nutshell, this is how its done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil 3 quarts of water. Remove from heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add 4 caffinated teabags and brew for about 5 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add 1 cup of sugar, stir until disolved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let your tea cool to room temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour into glass brewing container and cover with a towel so it can breath.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add your 'scoby' (baby Kombucha) and half cup of tea from a previous batch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it brew for at least 7-10 days. The longer it brews the more it will taste like vinegar. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this point you can drink it.  Make sure to save a half cup for your next batch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see it is similar to brewing beer, but much quicker. She doesn't seem to be as worried about cleanliness either. It does produce some alcohol, so your tea can get a bit carbonated depending on how you store it. You notice this more if you store your tea in an airtight container.  I bought her some Grolsch style bottles with the rubber stoppers from my LHBS.  You can also brew your tea with berries or ginger.  Scobies (starter mushrooms) can be had off the internet or craigslist for a couple bucks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is obviously just the basics, and there are plenty of good resources on the internet about how to do it.  I personally don't care for it, but I do enjoy the Kefir she makes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="573" LastEditorUserId="573" LastEditDate="2010-06-19T04:31:32.767" LastActivityDate="2010-06-19T04:31:32.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2010-06-19T14:32:37.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the Southeastern U.S., you can add &quot;Olde Towne&quot; from Huntsville, AL. They're -very- local to this area, and have only been in business for a few years. But if you're lucky enough to be near here, GO FIND SOME. No neck label and the plastic main label peels straight off. They're the BEST for re-usable bottles! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="KO" LastActivityDate="2010-06-19T14:32:37.873" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-06-19T14:32:37.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2231" CreationDate="2010-06-19T22:39:26.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Y'know, I doubt it really matters if it's perfect down to the third decimal point.  Why not just boil 2 lbs of DME in a liter or so of water, throw it in and see what happens?  Isn't that close enough?  Does it -really- need to be plus or minus .001 of an exact gravity? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="KO" LastActivityDate="2010-06-19T22:39:26.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2223" CreationDate="2010-06-20T00:41:15.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rich mentioned induction heat is different, but No.  Induction heat isn't different, it's just a precisely placed (and consequently sometimes too hot) heat.  What's different is that for the pot to react to the induction field it has to have a high percentage of ferritic iron in the metal alloy.  A high-nickel, high-chromium stainless pot is strong and shiny, but wouldn't react well with an induction field because of the low iron content in the metal alloy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that leads me to another question - would a high content of bare iron or iron oxide on the inside surface of the pot cause an unwanted reaction in the wort?  I think it would.  My guess is that is would leave a distinct metallic taste in the final beer, if not also killing the yeast off too soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to keep my eye out for mentions of the effect of bare iron on a cooking wort, since I don't remember seeing it ever mentioned in what I've read recently.  If anyone knows the answer to this, please speak up.  Though I have to think there's a pretty good reason why kettles are usually always copper.  (Yes, I know it's a good conductor of heat - but I'm betting copper is also non-reactive to a boiling wort where iron is more reactive and leaves traces in the resultant liquids.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="KO" LastActivityDate="2010-06-20T00:41:15.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2368" CreationDate="2010-06-20T12:48:32.737" Score="4" ViewCount="7244" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I planted my hops three years ago and they've done well.  I'm planning to move next year (within the same hardiness zone) and I want to take my hops with me.  I'm sure whomever buys my house won't want the hops and I don't want to lose them.  How do I collect the crown to take it with me?  Can I take the whole crown, or do I need to clip rhizomes and start anew next year?  Should I dig them up in the fall after the bines die off, or in the late winter, or some other time?  How do I store them until planting time?  If I can take the whole crown, can I store it or must it be transplanted immediately like transplanting a shrub?  Can you offer any other advice on taking hop plants with me when I move?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T08:31:52.687" Title="How do I take hop plants with me when I move?" Tags="|hops|rhizome|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2135" CreationDate="2010-06-21T14:55:27.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you mean dry extracts, no.  The previous poster has that covered.  It requires freeze-drying and a bunch of other complicated stuff.  However, you can make your own extract syrups.  It's best not to think of them as LME OR DME at this point but more specific extracts (stout,pilsner,pale ale, etc.).  Basically, all you do is mash out your grain and then boil it down until you get a thick syrup.  You're just removing the water from the solution.  Be sure you store it in sterilized airtight containers, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this efficient? Probably not.  It's just as easy for me to do a full grain extraction every time i brew.  For this to really be worth your time, you'd need to do 10-20 gallons of mash at a time and for that to be time-efficient, you'd need industrial equipment to boil off that much liquid, not to mention mash out that much grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="TheGoodDrink" LastActivityDate="2010-06-21T14:55:27.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2241" CreationDate="2010-06-21T21:54:48.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The kombucha scoby is basically yeast and aceter bacteria, the yeast eats the sugar and makes alcohol (I'm sure we're all familiar with that) then the aceter bacteria eats the alcohol and makes acetic acid (vinegar). This is why homebrewers/vintners might not be fans of making kombucha, 5 gallons of vinegar when you were expecting beer or wine is not cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make kombucha in a method similar to what StormerOfLezbos posted, though I brew the tea longer/stronger and add more sugar.The strong brewed tea also supplies nutrients for the culture (yeast can not live on sugar alone). The longer you let it ferment the less sweet and more sour/acidic the tea becomes, also when you're done fermenting and you remove the scoby, note that there will still be yeast (and probably bacteria too) left in your kombucha. So any residual sugar will continue to be consumed, using this knowledge you can put the kombucha in sealed bottles and allow it to carbonate, or you can stick it in the fridge and arrest all fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-06-21T21:54:48.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2255" CreationDate="2010-06-22T11:39:15.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing how you have time I think you may want to think about burying a few feet of one bine.  That will serve as growth for a good new rhizome.  Then you dig it up and trim it into a few pieces for planting multiple plants after you move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't remember all the details but a quick google search will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this might be easier than trying to dig up and save the entire crown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a nice little self explanatory piece about this at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freshops.com/hop-growing/hop-gardening/#pruning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FreshHops&lt;/a&gt; to check out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-06-22T11:44:34.857" LastActivityDate="2010-06-22T11:44:34.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2264" CreationDate="2010-06-22T11:47:20.450" Score="4" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between using a nice smoked malt vs. maybe using some liquid smoke for making Rauchbier?&#xA;Can you detect the difference in complexity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is smoked fruit woods (apple, cherry) better than smoke from say hickory or mesquite?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-22T15:14:15.450" Title="Rauchbier smoke source" Tags="|beer-styles|ingredients|flavor|smoke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2263" CreationDate="2010-06-22T11:56:19.197" Score="4" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where does your brewing inspiration come from for your next batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This past weekend I was at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/acbf/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;American Craft Beer Fest&lt;/a&gt; in Boston to close out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com/boston-beer-week-2010/731&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boston Beer Week&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like attending fests looking for things I want to brew and getting inspiration for things I haven't brewed yet; or things I want to brew better.  Sometimes you can even get recipes from brewers themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current inspiration is to start putting some oatmeal in some styles other than my Oatmeal Stout.  I want to try an Oatmeal Brown and an Oatmeal Amber.  Maybe I should do an Oatmeal Wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made this a community Wiki as there is no one answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-22T20:57:59.560" Title="Brewing Inspiration" Tags="|brewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-06-22T11:56:19.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2260" CreationDate="2010-06-22T14:50:53.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used liquid smoke before. Having said that, I think this calls for an experiment! For your first question (detecting difference in complexity between liquid smoke vs. smoked malt), try it! Make both, try them, and let me know :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, when does one normally add liquid smoke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your second question, about &quot;better&quot;, that's a question of preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;/vague answer&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-06-22T14:50:53.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2261" CreationDate="2010-06-22T14:53:40.373" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the best beers I've made came from a sandwich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was eating a pepper turkey and pepper jack on Jewish Rye, with some spicy mustard. Toward the end of the meal, I bit into a caraway seed. The flavor exploded! I decided I needed that in a beer. So I came up with a recipe for a rye dry stout with caraway seeds. It's my best recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-06-22T14:53:40.373" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-06-22T14:53:40.373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2260" CreationDate="2010-06-22T15:14:15.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak to smoked malt vs. liquid smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to answer your other question, there are big flavor differences between the types of wood you use, at least in cooking, so I would think it depends on the characteristics you want to impart in your beer.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.texasbbqrub.com/wood.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;list&lt;/a&gt; I reference for the flavor profiles of different smokes (with a few I've added myself):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oak : A heavy smoke flavor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hickory: Strong, smoky taste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mesquite: Sweet, light taste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pecan: Nice taste. Lighter than hickory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apple: Sweet, fruity smoke taste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beech: Milder and sweeter than Hickory with a slightly fruity flavor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acadia: Similar to mesquite, but not as strong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Almond: A nutty, sweet flavor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alder: Very delicate. Slightly sweet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apricot: Milder and sweeter than Hickory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ash: Burns fast. Light, but distinct flavor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Birch: Slightly sweet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cherry: Slightly sweet fruit flavor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grape Vines: Similar to fruit woods.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grapefruit: Medium smoke flavor. Slight hint of fruit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lemon: Medium smoke flavor. Slight hint of fruit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lilac: Very light smoke flavor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/style/7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerAdvocate&lt;/a&gt;, Rauchbier uses Beechwood to smoke the malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-06-22T15:14:15.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2261" CreationDate="2010-06-22T18:25:38.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like PJ's answer and ideas that are inspired by food (beer is food!).  A guy named Peter that I (and probably a few others here) know on Twitter as @SimplyBeer created a brew based on his love of Reese's Peanut Butter Cups:  Peanut Butter Porter.  I haven't tried it yet but everyone who tried it seemed to love it.  Really want to try brewing this soon.  Here is his recipe:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.simplybeer.com/blog/2010/03/19/homebrew-peanut-butter-porter-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.simplybeer.com/blog/2010/03/19/homebrew-peanut-butter-porter-recipe/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most of my own recipes are inspired by beers that I've tried and loved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smuttynose does a really hoppy Imperial Stout, and I decided to try to brew one myself using a lot of Chinook hops (they use Cascade, but I thought Chinook might work better).  I wouldn't say it was as good or better than Smutty, but it came out awesome and I'd definitely do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also just got to try some Stone Sublimely Self-Righteous that has me wanting to do a black IPA/Cascadian Dark Ale/whatever you want to call the style (I'm not a fan of the term &quot;Cascadian Dark Ale&quot;, I'd call it an India Black Ale if it were up to me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-06-22T18:25:38.747" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-06-22T18:25:38.747" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-06-22T18:35:24.700" Score="8" ViewCount="2093" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know a good comprehensive resource to compare different base and specialty grains and their resulting flavor profiles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastActivityDate="2010-06-22T19:47:28.267" Title="Malt flavor profiles" Tags="|specialty-malt|malt|flavor|recipe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2266" CreationDate="2010-06-22T19:23:41.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone's palate is different and the subtleties between the malts will be different person to person.&#xA;I recommend planning out several mini batches and mini mashes of just the base malts to really get into it.  I'd also say that making a big batch of simple extra light extra malt and steeping 0.5-0.75 lbs of specialty malts in one gallon batches to get a library of specialty malt flavors going too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing for &gt;12 years and everytime I taste a malt closely, I seem to have a different take on it then what I have just read about it alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-22T19:23:41.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2266" CreationDate="2010-06-22T19:47:28.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with brewchez. But, here's a good listing if you still want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/resources/grains&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/resources/grains&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-06-22T19:47:28.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2261" CreationDate="2010-06-22T20:57:59.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still a newbie, but I'm planning what to brew based on the season it will be ready to drink. Right now I'm wishing I had started wheat beer about 6 weeks ago because it is 85 and humid today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastActivityDate="2010-06-22T20:57:59.560" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-06-22T20:57:59.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2010-06-22T20:59:36.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Home Brewer's Answer Book by Ashton Lewis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked this up from the library. I think we should get as many of the questions onto this site for reference as we can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastActivityDate="2010-06-22T20:59:36.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2348" CreationDate="2010-06-23T16:12:29.387" Score="5" ViewCount="2456" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I made a belgian strong ale. In the secondary I added 7 pounds of fresh cherries that were pitted, frozen, thawed, and blended up. Is there a good way to at least estimate the additional alcohol that they produced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-07-12T22:37:59.997" Title="Calculating sugar in fresh fruit" Tags="|fruit|specific-gravity|sugar|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2271" CreationDate="2010-06-23T16:15:21.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of is putting some cherries (in whatever form you would use the in your beer) in water, leaving them for some time (could be your fermentation time) and then checking the water's gravity to see how much sugar has been extracted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-06-23T16:15:21.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2271" CreationDate="2010-06-24T13:38:46.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an estimate try this...&#xA;Look up the nutritional values for cherries on a USDA or other calorie counting website.  It will tell you the sugars per serving.  From there you can estimate the weight of the sugar per unit serving weight and then get a ballpark idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm telling you now though, its significantly less than most other things we add like pure sugar or extracts.  To the point where its probably not worth calculating.  Especially, from an ABV standpoint.  It'll change your ABV fractionally.  That's from roughly calculating it in the past somewhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-07-12T22:37:59.997" LastActivityDate="2010-07-12T22:37:59.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2279" CreationDate="2010-06-25T02:34:40.753" Score="2" ViewCount="1566" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am looking into upgrading the gear I use to do a boil.  Currently I have a 5 gallon stainless steal pot, I use an electric range to heat the water, and my kitchen sink to cool down the wort.  It works, but I have had problems with my wort boiling over lately.  I have tried putting less water in for the boil, then top up in the fermenter later, but this has lead to some scorching.  Not to mention that fact it takes quite a while to get the wort to a boil and even longer to cool it off.  The obvious answer is to upgrade my gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know very little about boiling setups.  It seems propane is a popular choice, but anything that can boil water quickly and keep an even, controllable temperate I will consider.  Also, what should I look for in a brew pot? Are cooling coils for the wort worth it?  Amazon has some good deals, but I wouldn't mind giving a specialty home brew site my business either. I would like to keep it under $150.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all of the feedback. Amazon had a great combo deal with a propane burner, 8 gallon stainless pot, and wort chiller for $150.  However, the shipping put it over $225. So I went with a 10 gal pot (same brand just bigger and no shipping fee for the same price) and a Bayou burner.  I will get the wort chiller some other time.  I decided it was better to get some good quality gear, rather than go for lesser quality pieces that I know I will replace in short order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="573" LastEditorUserId="573" LastEditDate="2010-06-29T01:07:51.550" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T03:26:16.583" Title="Boiling Equipment (Burner, Pot, Wort Chiller)" Tags="|chiller|brewpot|burner|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2276" CreationDate="2010-06-25T13:27:29.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad news:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I doubt you can do the whole shebang for under 150.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Northern Brewer&lt;/a&gt;, burners range between 50 and 140 bucks, chillers range between 60 and 200 bucks.  Kettles are going to be a problem.  I don't see anything (in the 8-10 gallon range) for less than 150.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest going the route I decided on:&#xA;First, get a chiller.  You can use it for your current setup.&#xA;Second, get a burner.  You can use your current pot and chilling system on the new burner.&#xA;Third, get the bigger pot.  Space it out over a couple of months/batches between buys, and you should be able to get it all and not have to cut corners just to match the budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-06-25T13:27:29.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2281" CreationDate="2010-06-25T13:36:32.610" Score="1" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few college friends of mine have started brewing beer recently and we were wondering what the best way to ship our beers across the country is?  Our ideas so far are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just bottle it, wrap it, and ship it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Siphon off of secondary into a few 2 liter coke bottles, ship with the proper amount of bottling sugar in a zip-lock bag, and let them bottle it upon arrival&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the second idea we were thinking that it would be easier/cheaper to ship because the 2 liters are non-breakable.  It would also have the advantage of being under little to no pressure, which would be good if it had to travel by air I suppose.  Are there any drawbacks to this idea, aside from possibly imparting a cola taste from insufficient rinsing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other ideas out there for shipping brews to fellow brewers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-07-17T04:30:26.853" Title="Shipping beer to fellow brewers" Tags="|shipping|packaging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2276" CreationDate="2010-06-25T14:18:22.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been contemplating this myself recently.  I've looked into induction hotplates, but I've found that they're too expensive for my blood.  Here's what's on my list right now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just grab a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/King-Kooker-30-Quart-Turkey-Fryer-and-Outdoor-Cooker/10661034&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;turkey fryer from Walmart&lt;/a&gt; that comes with a 7 gallon kettle ($60).  Sure it's aluminum, but that makes it significantly cheaper.  I've been using aluminum so far with no ill affects (but that's a topic for another thread :) ).  If the fryer doesn't heat evenly enough, just put a cast iron griddle or something similar under the pot to distribute the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I would make a insulating jacket for the pot using some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/pd_13353-56291-ST16025_4294858104_4294937087?productId=1014123&amp;amp;pl=1&amp;amp;currentURL=/pl_Foil%2BInsulation_4294858104_4294937087_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;foil insulation from Lowes&lt;/a&gt; ($15).  Those aluminum pots lose heat almost as quick as they get it.  Just be sure to keep the insulation an inch or two above the bottom, we wouldn't want it to catch on fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I would make my own cheap-and-dirty wort chiller (which I've done before).  You can grab 20' of 3/8&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/pd_311863-69305-CU06020N_4294822005_4294937087?productId=3142375&amp;amp;pl=1&amp;amp;currentURL=/pl_Copper%2BPipes%2B_4294822005_4294937087_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;copper tubing from Lowes&lt;/a&gt; ($25) to start off.  You're also going to need a connector on one end to thread a hose onto.  You can solder one on or just find the right combo of connectors to screw one on (that's how I did mine, just remember to use Teflon tape).  On the &quot;exit end&quot; of the chiller I just make sure the tube is clear of the water and have it spray out on the deck/driveway/wherever you're chilling.  If you're chilling indoors you could just fit some plastic tubing over the end and return the water to your sink.  I think all-in-all mine cost around $30-$35 to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That comes in at around $110 (plus the cost of propane) and should definitely be an improvement on your setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-06-25T14:24:40.267" LastActivityDate="2010-06-25T14:24:40.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2278" CreationDate="2010-06-25T19:36:26.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a shoebox and some of that expanding spray foam. Put a nice, thick layer of spray foam in the bottom of the shoebox. Place a layer of plastic wrap on top of that, then press your beer bottle(s) so they sink into the foam. Place another layer of plastic wrap on top of the beer, then cover them with spray foam. You wind up with a nice, shock resistant package. Just don't forget the plastic wrap, or getting the beer out of the foam will prove challenging! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and seems obvious, but don't indicate that it is beer - if you need to indicate what is in the package, say it's a &quot;yeast sample&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-06-25T19:36:26.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2278" CreationDate="2010-06-27T02:17:41.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer for national competitions is normally shipped in glass bottles with just a couple wraps of bubble wrap around it.  I have shipped beer multiple times this way and it works out great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Line a box with a plastic bag, just in case there is a leak.  Then just put your bubble wrapped bottles in there with a little newspaper to prevent movement in the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll do fine like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coke bottle idea is interesting, but its an extra step that I wouldn't bother with.&#xA;Of you really want to keep weight down use the plastic twist cap bottles that you get with Mr. Beer type setups.  If all your buddies invest in the same bottling format, then you will actually get bottles in return for your sent bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-27T02:17:41.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-06-28T05:40:23.313" Score="5" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I went to my local brewing store, and got a starter kit. It came with a 7 gallon fermenter, a siphon tube, a floating thermometer, bottle caper, bottle caps, bottle scrubber, and sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way I have multiple questions. I know most first time brewing experiences are uneasy, but I was hoping someone could make mine slightly easier. I explained to the lady at the brew shop that I wanted to make a blonde ale similar to the one Sierra Nevada makes. She recommended a &quot;Cooper&quot; extract for my first time that would provide a similar beer. The directions say to simply boil it with the recommended amount of water and 1kg of corn sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did that exactly, then added the recommended amount of cool water to my (plastic) fermenter. I added ice cubes to bring it down to 70 degrees F. Once that was done I had read that it was more effective to &quot;prepare&quot; your yeast, rather than sprinkling it on in powder form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By &quot;preparing&quot; my yeast, I sanitized a cup, added hot water, let poured the yeast into it, and let it dissolve for 10 minutes. After that I mixed it up, and poured it into the cooled wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I closed the lid and added the Air Lock. It has been over 24 hours, and I have not seen any bubbles, although I haven't been checking more than twice a day due to my schedual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything was sanitized might I add. My questions are these. Did I make a mistake somewhere? How important is keeping the fermenting brew between 65 and 75 degrees? and do I need a second fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="chris" LastEditorUserId="445" LastEditDate="2010-06-28T07:37:22.120" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T01:16:09.997" Title="First Time Brewing...am I doing it right?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|problems|equipment|fermentation-temperature|yeast|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2282" CreationDate="2010-06-28T07:36:05.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Did I make a mistake somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible reasons for no bubbles:&#xA;a) The lead of the fermenter is not completely closed, or the airlock not perfectly attached, thus air gets out from somewhere else.&#xA;b)When you say your poured the yeast into &quot;hot water&quot;, how hot was it? If you used water over 80-85 degrees F you could have killed your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How important is keeping the&#xA;  fermenting brew between 65 and 75&#xA;  degrees?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost every yeast can operate between those temperatures. Remaining there assures you won't have any off-flavours because of temperature. It's not &lt;strong&gt;that&lt;/strong&gt; important though, I think that if you get a few degrees off these borders, the worst thing that can happen to you is to have a more fruity beer (due to ester production) or have a slower fermentation (due to low temperatures). RDWHAHB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and do I need a second fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you don't rack to secondary (which is not necessary if you're careful when you move your fermenter), you'll need a second fermenter for your bottling day. Leave your batch in the first fermenter for 4-5 days to complete fermentation, then for another 7-10 days (primary on secondary fermenter, doesn't matter much) to clear up a bit, and the rack to the other bucket, add your priming sugars, and bottle. Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-06-28T07:36:05.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2282" CreationDate="2010-06-28T11:30:50.203" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably just haven't waited long enough yet.  Make sure the lid is on tight and wait another 24 hours.  Dry yeast and the first time experience tends to take a while for things to start perking.  Just be patient.  Hot water can be too hot, but as long as it is under 100F you should be OK. Some of the yeast probably didn't survive the shock, but you likely got some in the beer.  Its just taking time because they need to now grow up to a sufficient number of cells before the fermentation can begin.  Just takes time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need another vessel at bottling time.  Normally, a bucket fermenter with a spigot on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just put the beer is a closet or something where its fairly cool.  If its really hot where you live, drape a damp towel over the fermenter and that will help keep it cool some too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-28T11:30:50.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2200" CreationDate="2010-06-28T14:01:49.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;strong&gt;shipping&lt;/strong&gt; on those tanks.  I looked into placing an order of five of their 35-gallon tanks and it would cost $450 to freight them to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget (or &quot;have you heard&quot;) about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.minibrew.com/index.php?main_page=index&amp;amp;cPath=5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mini-Brew plastic conicals&lt;/a&gt;.  They're a little more expensive, but you get a racking port and a side port for temperature probe.  I found mine on eBay for about half the list price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the Tank-Depot and Mini-Brew conicals have threaded fittings, which may harbor bacteria.  I got an infection in one of mine that ruined four batches in a row.  I put it on the shelf and haven't touched it.  (I'll sell it to ya cheap!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-06-28T14:01:49.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2289" CreationDate="2010-06-28T20:47:50.823" Score="8" ViewCount="1471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd love to hear the creative ways which folks have come up with to sanitize the &lt;em&gt;outside&lt;/em&gt; of their racking cane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanitizing the inside is straightforward - siphon some sanitizing solution through the cane, then let it sit for a while. Getting the upper part of the outside of the cane in constant contact with santizing solution seems  less straightforward. I don't really want to fill an entire 5gal container with solution just so that I can get the racking cane fully immersed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best trick I've come up with is to use a narrow tube closed at one end, and fill that up with solution. I then insert the racking cane into that tube. Here's my crappy diagram illustrating the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  ,====&#xA;  ||&#xA;  ||&#xA;|_||_|&#xA;|.||.|&#xA;|.||.|&#xA;|.||.|&#xA;|.||.|&#xA;|.||.|&#xA;|.||.|&#xA;|.||.|&#xA;|.||.|&#xA;|....|&#xA;------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T18:19:38.657" Title="How do you sanitize the outside of your racking cane?" Tags="|siphon|sanitation|racking|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2276" CreationDate="2010-06-28T20:51:52.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to consider would be a turkey deep-fryer kit. Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://bayouclassicdepot.com/turkey_fryer_kit.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bayouclassicdepot.com/turkey_fryer_kit.htm&lt;/a&gt;. This should allow you do to a full 5 gal boil without any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was my first brew-kettle setup, and it worked great. I eventually upgraded to a fancy stainless kettle, but I'm still happily using the burner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" LastActivityDate="2010-06-28T20:51:52.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2286" CreationDate="2010-06-28T21:37:44.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just wipe some sanitizing solution on the outside of the cane either with my hand or a damp paper towel. Maybe that's not the best way to do it but I haven't had an infection yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-06-28T21:37:44.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2286" CreationDate="2010-06-29T13:11:32.587" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;My technique&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stick it in the carboy/bucket/keg that is full of sanitizer. You only have to get the part of the cane that will touch wort, but it doesn't hurt to splash or wipe sanitizer on the entire cane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A better way&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can build a dirt cheap dedicated sanitizing vessel.  Go to the hardware store and get a length of 2-4 inch diameter PVC pipe and a matching slip-fit plug or cap.  Cut the pipe longer than your racking cane. Glue the plug in one end and, viola, you have a water-tight tube for sanitizing tall, narrow things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your diagram is almost perfect.  Picture it made of PVC pipe with a large enough diameter to allow the entire cane to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-06-29T13:11:32.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2286" CreationDate="2010-06-29T13:19:37.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually have a bucket of sanitizer made up with 3-4 gallons in it.  I am constantly dipping things in and out of it.  I tend to just flip the racking cane upside down in that bucket to get the top part AND all the tubing submerged in sanitizer.  So it sits in sanitizer up side down and right side up for a time while I do other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a racking only day where I don't have a big bucket made up, I just use a spray bottle of sanitizer.  I keep a little fresh sanitizer around from the last session in a used windex sprayer.  I spray the heck out of the exterior of the racking cane until its dripping.  I do it a couple times to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-29T13:19:37.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2271" CreationDate="2010-06-29T13:22:13.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Press some of the fruit to extract the juice and measure the SG with your hydrometer. Measure the SG of your beer. Then measure the volume change when you add the fruit to your beer and you'll have to determine the dilution of the sugar throughout your batch to figure out the actual increase in SG of the whole batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-06-29T13:22:13.517" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2295" CreationDate="2010-06-29T14:13:37.487" Score="3" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone had some advice on a beer to drink with a super-savory shrimp and tortellini dish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dish details:&#xA;The shrimp are cooked in garlic butter, then the pan juices are rendered with either white wine or some of the boil water.  This is all tossed with the tortellini and parmesan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dish is very cheesy, rich, and savory.  I'm not sure what to serve with it, but I was thinking maybe a Belgian Wit?  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-06-30T19:26:54.183" Title="Pairing for Garlic butter shrimp and tortellini" Tags="|pairing|food|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2294" CreationDate="2010-06-29T16:05:19.837" Score="3" ViewCount="3227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a Blonde Ale about 3 months ago, and it had a really bitter and strange taste to it. It was drinkable and ok, but not great. I thought the problem was that there was sanitizer flavor in my beer. So the next batch (Cherry Stout) I did all glass primary and secondary fermentation to mitigate the sanitizer flavor. The beer had a pretty much identical flavor to the young Blonde Ale, drinkable but not great. I generally followed the 1-2-3 rule (1 week primary, 2 weeks secondary, 3 weeks bottle), but moved out of the primary based on a the desired gravity reading, so the usual fermenting/conditioning time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my Blonde Ale had aged for 3 months, I tasted it again and it tasted amazing! I couldn't believe it! It was a night and day difference between the odd flavor it started out with and how it tasted after aging for 3 months. Is this always the case? Right now my Cherry Stout doesn't taste very well, but if I give it 3 months, do you think it will taste significantly better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the same thing apply to kegged beers? Does it normally take a few months to produce quality flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="473" LastActivityDate="2010-07-01T23:53:43.113" Title="Does aging the beer make a huge difference?" Tags="|aging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2293" CreationDate="2010-06-29T17:11:20.497" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keg and most of my beers are tasting great at 4 weeks.  Do some styles I brew take longer to &quot;peak&quot;?  Yes.  But for the most normal beers (pales, reds, wheats, blondes etc etc) they are tasting great around the forth week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my results has nothing to do with kegging though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are following the 1-2-3 rule, I'd suggest two critical things.  Make sure you are pitching the best yeast you can.  That means 1) its the proper amount of yeast 2) Its healthy yeast.  Once you have that down and mastered the issues you describe will clear up sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, drop the 1-2-3 rule.  Let the beer sit in primary for AT LEAST 14 days!  Your yeast does so much more than just flocculate out once final gravity is reached.  The yeast help with flavor maturation after the ferment is done.  Leaving the beer on the whole yeast cake an extra week greatly shortens the time.  That's why something as simple as a blonde took 3 months to get good (it was probably sooner but...)  you just didn't have enough yeast in there to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a 2 week primary the need for secondary almost goes away.  And when doing full wort boils and using a wort chiller the beer clears pretty well that way too, again negating the need for a secondary step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am certain your Cherry Stout will improve in time.  Stouts especially do well with a little maturation time on them, IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-29T17:11:20.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2292" CreationDate="2010-06-29T17:16:22.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the Wit is strong enough in terms of citrus like esters then maybe it would be a good pairing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that many people like the idea of IPA with garlic and butter.  But I don't find it a good fit if the hops are too earthy and herbal.  You need that citrus punch to help cut through the fat of the butter and cheese. I find that American Amber ale pairs nicely with garlicy foods because the Amber beer tends to have more malt backbone than IPA does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another suggestion would be a Berliner Wiesse.  The sour tart flavors will cut through everything and it should pair well with the white addition.  (Actually, I sub berliner weisse into rissotto when white wine is called for...phenomenal!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem with Berliner Wiesse is they are tough to find commercially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-06-29T17:16:22.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2298" CreationDate="2010-06-30T13:22:36.353" Score="6" ViewCount="3226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen conical fermenters in catalogs and on the web, but I've never heard why they are better than fermenting in a glass carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would I want to use a conical instead of a carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T15:49:55.923" Title="Why would I want a conical fermenter?" Tags="|conical-fermenter|fermenter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2297" CreationDate="2010-06-30T14:12:33.567" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cone shape and valve on the bottom lets you remove the trub without transferring containers, so you can do your primary and secondary ferment in the same vessel, or bottle without worrying about the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom valve also makes it easy to remove your beer for bottling and such, so there's no need for siphoning.  I think this is mainly advantageous when you get into batches that are a lot bigger than 5 gallons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-06-30T14:12:33.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2292" CreationDate="2010-06-30T19:26:54.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saison Dupont &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="FrankieSez" LastActivityDate="2010-06-30T19:26:54.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2286" CreationDate="2010-07-01T04:59:00.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always have a 5-gallon bucket of sanitizer around so I keep my racking cane in the bucket of sanitizer until I'm ready to use it. A great alternative is a spray bottle filled with sanitizer. You can quickly and effectively spot-sanitize your equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="342" LastActivityDate="2010-07-01T04:59:00.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2304" CreationDate="2010-07-01T09:44:43.800" Score="22" ViewCount="14642" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my first homebrew a few days ago. I used a John Bull India Pale Ale beer kit made by Young's (West Midlands, UK). The airlock is bubbling away merrily and I've taken the lid off the fermenter and had a sniff - got a huge fizzy hit in the nose (won't get so close next time!) and can detect a general beery smell so hopefully all will be well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I was wondering what sort of result I might expect as a newbie from a beer kit (assuming no silly mistakes)? I'm not expecting to win any awards, but on the other hand, it's going to be a waste of effort if it's undrinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR - Can a newbie make something drinkable or is it going to take years of experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Thanks for answers so far. Sounds like it could be better than I was hoping it might be! I'll come back and update once it's done and let you know how I got on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some extra info: The kit cost £10 and included yeast (in a sachet). The instructions were to tip the canned malt-extract into a brewing bin, add 1kg of sugar and add 4 litres of boiling water, so I didn't need much special equipment. Stir and top-up to 23 litres with cold water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, ingredients cost £11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equipment (so far):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;£15 - Brew bin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;£2  - Bung and airlock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;£3  - hydrometer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;£3  - trial jar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;£3  - Bruclens steriliser (sanitizer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE 2:&#xA;Wow - it came out better than I expected, but pretty much in line with the opinions expressed here - that is, I don't think it was award-winning, but it was certainly very drinkable (all gone now!) I've paid money in pubs for stuff that wasn't as nice. I've got a second kit on the go now - will probably stick to kits initially, but will be back here for advice/info when I want to progress from there. Thanks for the answers and encouragement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="111" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:36:19.000" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T22:55:36.420" Title="Are beer kits any good?" Tags="|kits|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2302" CreationDate="2010-07-01T10:36:27.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot express any opinion about this brand, having only tried munton's and brewferm beer kits, but, as far as I may know from those, beer from kits is not, as you already guessed, an award-winning beer, but it's certainly much better than any commercial bottled beer you may have tried! So relax, you'll enjoy all your batches starting from the first one! ;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-07-01T10:36:27.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2302" CreationDate="2010-07-01T10:42:07.553" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make beer from kits that are better than just drinkable as a newbie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially, when you continue to consult websites like this and others to get research and questions answered about how to do this or do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the newbie using a kit their are two areas to focus on that will give you great beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitation.  You hear it over and over because its true.  You have no hope of making decent beer, even drinkable beer, if your sanitation isn't solid.  That said sanitation is an easy step in the process.  Just soak all your equipment that comes into contact with the beer for the required amount of time (depending on sanitizer of choice) and your good to go.  I prefer no rinse sanitizers like Star-San.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermentation management.  The yeast does all the important work in the brewing process.  When working with kits all you are doing is boiling ingredients essentially (and #1 Sanitation).  So if you focus on providing great yeast and work to have steady and dependable fermentation temperatures great beer is almost a guarantee.   For a newbie, you don't need to dive right into yeast starters first thing.  For the first couple batches be sure to rehydrate dry yeast in water prior to pitching (water should be sanitary remember).  Or pitch the freshest tube of liquid yeast you can.  Once you are comfortable with doing those steps, maybe a starter culture is in your future.  And you WILL notice the difference.  For temp control its a little more tricky.  An old fridge is best, but a swamp cooler works pretty well too as a cheaper alternative.  A swamp cooler may not be good as maintaining a set temperature, but it is pretty good at maintaining a stable temperature (which is often just as important).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kit brewing is fun and easy.  Follow those two steps and keep researching them and you'll make really good beer.  I bet that first batch will be great even without having read this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-07-01T10:42:07.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2306" CreationDate="2010-07-01T10:50:30.197" Score="3" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type of equipment do you need to build one?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How do you use it?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What are the realistic expectations of using one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-07-01T14:06:47.733" Title="What is a swamp cooler?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|fermentation|equipment|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2305" CreationDate="2010-07-01T14:06:47.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of brewing, I have seen folks keeping things cool by putting the carboy into a larger sized bucket of water, swap out ice or ice packs daily or more often if you live in a very hot place, and drape a wet towel around the shoulder of the carboy.  For added cooling, you could point a fan at this whole setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a friend do this in his basement to brew a lager.  It worked surprisingly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-07-01T14:06:47.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2302" CreationDate="2010-07-01T15:20:48.730" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can brew a great batch of beer using tips that Brewchez mentions in his response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I'd mention about the John Bull kits, is that it's a &quot;hopped extract&quot;, meaning the hop additions are already included in the syrup.  If you try other (usually more expensive) ingredient kits, you'll generally find that you'll get unhopped extract with hops to add to the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the John Bull kit, you'll get a decent batch, but you can have much more control over the final outcome (and the recipe itself) by using unhopped extracts and adding your own hops.  It can be a lot of fun to play around with different types of hops and when to add them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ingredient kits can in fact turn into &quot;award-winning&quot; beers if your process and sanitation are good, so I have to disagree with Tetragrammaton on that.  Ingredient kits are a great learning tool for new homebrewers because the recipes can show you what goes into each style of beer.  After you learn what you need to, you can start creating your own recipes based on your experiences with ingredient kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-07-01T15:20:48.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2320" CreationDate="2010-07-01T15:21:40.750" Score="4" ViewCount="23457" Body="&lt;p&gt;So if/when I eventually switch to using a conical fermenter, I assume I wouldn't want to dump the entire  trub/yeast cake at the bottom during fermentation. Do you typically wait until your &quot;primary fermentation&quot; period is over in the fermenter, and then dump all of the trub? If not, how much do you leave? How long do you wait before getting rid of some of the trub at the bottom? In most cases, would you completely avoid using a secondary and use the conical fermenter for the entire fermenting process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="473" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T17:24:45.977" Title="When to remove trub/yeast cake from a conical fermenter" Tags="|conical-fermenter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2308" CreationDate="2010-07-01T19:26:31.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're brewing an ale, I don't think there's any disadvantage to dumping the whole trub.  If you were planning to pitch another batch onto it just drain it into a sanitary container.  The trub is just inactive yeast and proteins.  You'll most likely still have yeast floating around, and draining the trub will probably stir some inactive yeast back up into the beer.  I'm not sure whether the same holds true for lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think most people wait until primary fermentation is over, although I'm sure there are some people who wait till the end and people who do it every few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main concern would probably be how much air are you willing to let in the fermenter?  Every time you drain trub or take samples it sucks in air (or, if you forget about your airlock, airlock liquid, hopefully not water).  If you purge with CO2 it doesn't really matter, but if you don't you could possibly get some oxidation (although definitely no more than transferring to a secondary would give you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-07-01T19:26:31.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2302" CreationDate="2010-07-01T20:02:40.830" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not the kits that suck, it's the instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern kits contain ingredients of MUCH higher quality than homebrewers used to have to deal with. If you buy your kit from a shop that has high turnover (morebeer and northernbrewer are pretty safe bets, I'd think) than you don't risk getting old extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said - the instructions (and advice you will get from many homebrew shop owners) are not the way to make the best beer. They oversimplify the instructions so they don't scare off the newcomers to the hobby. If you follow the instructions, you'll probably make good beer, but if you do a little research and modify the instructions to your liking, you can make GREAT beer from a kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to self-promote, but I have an article on my site @ &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lootcorp.com/2008/05/22/five-things-which-made-me-a-better-brewer/&quot;&gt;http://www.lootcorp.com/2008/05/22/five-things-which-made-me-a-better-brewer/&lt;/a&gt; which details some steps I took which made a big difference in the quality of my beer. As brewchez mentioned, fermentation and temp control are HUGE. Making yeast starters helps a lot too. And even if you don't go all grain, it is simple to get a kit with some specialty grains to add some depth of flavor - you simply steep these in your brewing liquor (hot water to non-brewers) while you are heating it up - just be careful to stay below 165*F or so when steeping or you can extract astringency from the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-07-01T20:02:40.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2286" CreationDate="2010-07-01T20:10:00.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use StarSan, which creates a wonderful foam when agitated that sanitizes on contact. I spread foam all on the outside of the racking cane, as well as any other &quot;tricky&quot; areas (like the bottom of my fermenting bucket lid). I also keep a spray bottle of sanitizer on hand at all times - this is a lifesaver. Need a bit of sanitizer on something? Spritz it a couple of times and you're set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using another sanitizer and do need to soak it, look into getting a long, shallow plastic pan from Home Depot or somewhere - paint department should have something you can use, or maybe a long drywall mud trough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-07-01T20:10:00.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2010-07-01T20:18:38.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, most of the ones I would suggest are already here (and I did upvote them) - so I'll throw out one that hasn't been mentioned yet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1592532934&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Extreme Brewing: An Enthusiast's Guide to Brewing Craft Beer at Home&lt;/a&gt; by Sam Calagione (of Dogfish Head, but I didn't need to tell ya that, right? lol)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some may say this isn't a book for beginners, but I would disagree. It provides all of the basic info on process and equipment, and all of the recipes are extract with specialty grain. I bought it thinking it would be a compliment to Radical Brewing, and was actually a bit disappointed that it seemed more geared towards beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I wouldn't recommend it for someone making their very first batch, I think you could easily step into this book very early in your brewing journey and make some very cool brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-07-01T20:18:38.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2282" CreationDate="2010-07-01T20:45:42.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of good info here, so I'll just throw in my $0.02&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your techniques when starting out will usually not be optimal. Part of this is because the instructions supplied by kits and shop owners are usually oversimplified to make the process less intimidating. That being said, you usually still wind up making beer, it may just not be the best beer :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast could still be propogating - usually I wait 48 hours with no airlock activity before calling the yeast dead/dormant. Given that you say you might have overheated the yeast, I'd just get another pack and pitch it directly in the wort (and get a few extra packs to keep on hand for emergencies - keep them in the freezer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting ice in the wort to cool it is asking for trouble. Ice can have all sorts of contaminants in it. Topping off with tap water is also a bad idea for the same reason. I advocate full boils (no top off) but when I lived in an apartment and did stovetop brewing, it simply wasn't an option. If you can't move to full boils - do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are boiling your brewing water, also boil the extra 2-3 gallons you will need to top off with. As soon as that water boils, dump it in your sanitized fermentor bucket and cover it. This way, you have sanitized top off water which will cool down while you proceed with the brew. Alternatively, you can chill this boiled water (covered, in a sanitized container) in the fridge. The goal is to have your top off water sanitized and cool to at least room temp by the time you are done brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, to cool your wort, use an ice bath, placing the pot in the ice water, careful to not get any in the wort. As your wort cools, you want to avoid any contact with non-sanitized stuff - adding ice and water is undoing all the work you just did to get sanitary wort! Sure, you can do it 15 times and have no problems, but the one time you have to dump a batch you'll wish you hadn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you did top off with ice and water and your yeast might be dead, there is a possibility your beer will turn out infected. However, cross your fingers and hope for the best, and NEVER count a beer out until it is done fermenting and you can taste it. Now, I can tell if a beer is headed down the right path, but when I first started I thought every batch was infected because of the weird sights and smells the fermentation throws off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew, and if this batch doesn't turn out ok, try again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-07-01T20:45:42.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-07-01T23:16:03.397" Score="4" ViewCount="3511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was inspired to make a banana mead after reading Gravity's Rainbow.  I have made mead before, and looked online for recipes, but all of them contain grape juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the grape juice there for some fundamental reason (pH etc.) or can I omit it and just increase the amount of bananas used? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastActivityDate="2010-07-02T13:04:24.987" Title="Recipes for Banana Mead" Tags="|mead|recipe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2293" CreationDate="2010-07-01T23:53:43.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that the higher the OG, the longer it takes my beer to bottle condition...for something like a pale ale a month is usually enough, but my IPA goes for 3-4 months before I start drinking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastActivityDate="2010-07-01T23:53:43.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2317" CreationDate="2010-07-02T10:31:35.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if an you fermented a standard mead with a hefewiezen strain at the right temp if you  force some of those banana esters out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think grape juice is an ingredient in standard mead making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-07-02T10:31:35.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2308" CreationDate="2010-07-02T10:35:32.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like any fermentation process the best practice is to leave the beer on the yeast cake until it is completely done fermenting. And not just actively fermenting.  Resting on the primary cake after terminal gravity has been reached for a few days goes a long way towards getting cleaner tasting beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say do not dump until at least 10-14 days post pitching, assuming an appropriately sized pitch of healthy yeast was used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-07-02T10:35:32.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2317" CreationDate="2010-07-02T13:04:24.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need to use grape juice.  I know that honey has almost no nutrients and such for the yeast cells to eat.  Most recipes I've seen have you throw in a teabag (for a few days), or grape juice, or whatnot to add nutrients to the must so the yeast can do it's work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally go with Yeast Nutrient and Yeast Energizer.  I'd suggest starting with a nice clean flavored honey (clover works great for this), and then adding mushed bananas to the secondary.  FWIW, I'd also recommend you get Baby or Red bananas since (to my palate, at least) they taste more banana-like than the regular ones.  Yes they are more expensive, but trust me on this.  Also I'd suggest not getting them when they are green.  In fact, I'd say buy them and then wait a good week before putting them into the mead.  Let those skins get good and dark brown before using them (most recipes for banana bread suggest this, btw).  Peel em up, toss into a zipper bag, mush and then put into the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-07-02T13:04:24.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2323" CreationDate="2010-07-03T12:56:53.133" Score="6" ViewCount="1905" Body="&lt;p&gt;What makes a good breakfast beer?&#xA;Thinking of brewing something for an upcoming eggs and kegs event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any clones of Founders Kentucky Breakfast Stout out there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T03:33:34.353" LastActivityDate="2013-10-13T02:14:38.593" Title="How do you characterize &quot;Breakfast Beer&quot;?" Tags="|beer|recipe|beer-styles|clone-recipe|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2322" CreationDate="2010-07-03T16:19:04.767" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me, a good breakfast beer is something I can handle in the morning, or with a hangover. While strong is fine, if I can taste alcohol, it's not going to end well. Mkeller's beer geek breakfast, for example, has too strong an alcohol taste to be a good breakfast stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think something malty with smooth flavors works best. Bitter hops just won't do at 8am!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to brew a breakfast stout that's a blend of 4 batches - oatmeal stout, coffee stout, vanilla porter, and a maple porter. Hit about 6% abv. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-07-03T16:19:04.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2330" CreationDate="2010-07-03T17:04:51.763" Score="5" ViewCount="825" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where do you turn for good sources of info when researching a commercial beer you want to brew yourself?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Magazines, web or the brewers themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T19:36:53.360" Title="Cloning commercial beer" Tags="|clone-recipe|techniques|recipe|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2276" CreationDate="2010-07-03T21:20:34.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a 8.5 gallon enamel canning kettle ($46) from Amazon, and a copper immersion chiller from MoreBeer ($60) (it probably would have been cheaper to build the chiller myself). I added a prechiller by splicing a short length of soft copper coil into the vinyl tubing with hose clamps and dunking that into a sinkful of icewater.  Once you can do full boils and chill rapidly, you can do all grain batches if you insulate your bottling bucket (mash tun) and use your old kettle (hot liquor tank).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Beer Baron" LastActivityDate="2010-07-03T21:20:34.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2010-07-03T21:35:31.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a #7 five gallon jug to transport brewing water from the RO machine in front of the market to my house... but I ferment in glass carboys.  I had two batches spoiled by a hairline crack on the bottom of a better bottle.  When I moved it, I smelled sour spoiled beer, and when I tasted it, it was awful.  I noticed it just after I had brewed a batch, and the local homebrew shop had closed 10 minutes earlier.  I put the new batch on top of a platter filled with starsan, but the bugs in the scratch ruined both batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Beer Baron" LastActivityDate="2010-07-03T21:35:31.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1468" CreationDate="2010-07-03T21:40:23.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using a stopper plug.  It is a tiny stopper for the hole in the stopper.  Dunk it in sanitizer or vodka, plug the airlock hole while you move the better bottle, and put the airlock when you are done moving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Beer Baron" LastActivityDate="2010-07-03T21:40:23.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1903" CreationDate="2010-07-03T21:45:55.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use my bottling bucket as a mash tun.  I wrap it in foil insulation, and use some Brew in a Bag material (mesh curtains from IKEA) as a filter bag.  I can mash 12 lbs of grain in it, and my old 5 gallon kettle lid fits snugly on top.  I can keep a mash at 150 degrees for an hour.  Yes, you can use a cooler, but if you already have a bottling bucket, it costs less than $20 for the materials, it already has a ball valve on it, and it's not another thing to store.  You can throw the filter material in the washing machine after you rinse it out, too.  I wouldn't worry about infection, as it only holds mash or beer for an hour or two, unlike a fermentation bucket that holds beer for weeks.  If you rinse it out well and wash it you shouldn't have to worry about bacterial contamination - the mashing is pre - boil and the bottling is post - fermentation.  But you should clean and sanitize the ball valve as much as you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Beer Baron" LastEditorDisplayName="Beer Baron" LastEditDate="2010-07-03T23:54:46.833" LastActivityDate="2010-07-03T23:54:46.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2324" CreationDate="2010-07-03T22:07:27.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Magazines&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some magazines, like Brew Your Own and Zymurgy, provide clone recipes, as well as other recipes for the readers to try. This is a great resource, as they usually delve deeper than just the ingredients. They tend to explain the why of each choice, process, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-07-03T22:07:27.220" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-07-03T22:07:27.220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2324" CreationDate="2010-07-03T22:10:07.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Web&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some websites are better than others for this, but there are some great resources out there for clone recipes. There are the &quot;industry&quot; sites, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BYO&lt;/a&gt;, that list recipes. There are forums, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrew Talk&lt;/a&gt;, that have great discussions about various clones. And there are recipe sharing sites, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beertools.com/html/recipes.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerTools.com&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Calculus&lt;/a&gt;, that have some great variations and consistent details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-07-03T22:10:07.907" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-07-03T22:10:20.200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2324" CreationDate="2010-07-03T22:11:19.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Trial and Error&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Understanding what goes into beer at a detailed level allows a brewer to taste a beer, look at the color, etc., and make educated guesses on how to mimic it. This is definitely advanced, but with practice, this is a great way to clone a beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-07-03T22:11:19.357" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-07-03T22:11:19.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1391" CreationDate="2010-07-04T00:07:53.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90111980&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90111980&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is sold as a curtain, it comes with two sheets measuring 94&quot; X 110&quot; and is made of polyester voile, don't know the mesh size.  I cut one sheet in half and fold it in half when I use it to line my insulated bottling bucket mash tun.  So my &quot;bag&quot; is 55&quot; X 47&quot; folded once.  I  rinse it off and toss it in the washer with my hop bags after brewing.  It cost $5 US, and is 4 times the material I needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Beer Baron" LastActivityDate="2010-07-04T00:07:53.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2324" CreationDate="2010-07-04T16:00:16.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Podcasts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Podcasts like those put on by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Brewing Network&lt;/a&gt;, and in particular &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/The-Jamil-Show&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Jamil Show&lt;/a&gt; are a good resource for clone recipes.  The show's format changed a couple years back to what is now called &quot;Can You Brew It,&quot; in which a listener will request the hosts clone a commercial brew.  They'll speak with the commercial brewer, get tips and often the actual recipe, then they'll try their best to clone it.  It is very informative and entertaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="430" LastEditDate="2011-02-02T19:36:53.360" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T19:36:53.360" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-02T19:37:09.943" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2324" CreationDate="2010-07-04T16:02:32.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Books&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several books available full of clone recipes, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/160342539X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Clone Brews&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0970344252&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Captured&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="430" LastEditDate="2010-07-14T15:40:37.310" LastActivityDate="2010-07-14T15:40:37.310" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-02T19:37:20.507" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1296" CreationDate="2010-07-04T17:58:25.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up a Fermenator and brewed my first batch in it.  I like it for the convenience factor, but I ended up having to dump out the first batch I brewed in it.  Some black scum formed on the sides above the line the krausen leaves.  Some quick research indicated that this could be from some residual oils leftover from the machining process that didn't get removed during my pre-wash and sanitation routine and were extracted by the alcohol or the heat generated during fermentation.  I've never had a problem like this with glass.  The beer tasted metallic or medicinal as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch #2 is fermenting in there now.  This time I hit it hard:  washed it with hot water and dish soap as per the instructions that came with it, the hit it with a winemaking sanitizing agent (Proxiclean), followed by a citric acid soak and then the usual BTF soak.  We'll see if the problem recurs in a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-07-04T17:58:25.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-07-06T02:15:03.517" Score="3" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to corny keg disconnects, what are the pros and cons of pin lock vs ball lock posts? Seems like there are more spare parts available for the ball lock kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" LastActivityDate="2010-07-06T11:20:17.460" Title="Pin lock vs Ball lock" Tags="|corny-keg|keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2337" CreationDate="2010-07-06T11:20:17.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ball lock tend to be the most available around my parts in MA.  And like you said parts are easier to come by for these too.&#xA;As long as you keep the fittings in good working order (i.e. clean them once in a while), they go on and off fairly easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue will ball locking posts is that its sometimes difficult to remember which on is the out and which is the in.  At first glance they are very similar, but they are indeed different.  So when you disassemble a keg for cleaning you need to pay close attention to how they go back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the pin locks are a little more obvious which is which usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-07-06T11:20:17.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-07-07T15:46:03.563" Score="7" ViewCount="5676" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing some beer for a wedding present. Going to bottle half the batch and serve the other half at a party.  I have a full-color PDF with a label design, and would like the nicest-looking labels possible.  I'm probably only going to do about a dozen bottles. What are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2017-09-05T16:54:35.710" Title="How do I print professional-looking labels?" Tags="|labels|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-07-08T05:05:12.680" Score="5" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been about ten days since I started fermenting my beer, and it didn't create bubbles in the air lock until day two or three. The air lock is still bubbling, should I begin priming and bottling? Also, my kit only came with a fermenter, not a bucket to prime and bottle with. The fermenter has a spigot at the bottom of it, could I just add the priming solution and then pour out of the spigot to fill my bottles...or will that include too much of the unwanted proteins and such? Please let me know your thoughts, being my first time, it's a little confusing....and at times frusterating. Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="chris" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:37:56.353" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:37:56.353" Title="Priming and bottling for a first timer" Tags="|bottling|priming|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2340" CreationDate="2010-07-08T11:15:26.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend getting a bottling bucket and wand.  It will make the operation a little easier.  You need to stir in your priming sugar to get it homogenous throughout the beer.  Otherwise, some bottles will be more carbed than others.  Mixing in the fermenter will stir up all that sediment in the bottom, so that's no good.  Secondly, yes trying to just bottle out the base will take too much of that trub into the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a hydrometer, you need to get one.  If its still actively bubbling after only 7-8 days of fermentation its probably still going.  The only way to tell is to take a gravity reading once a day for a couple days.  I routinely let my beers go for 14 days minimum before I even think of what to do next.  In the case of being such a novice brewer the process often takes longer because of yeast issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry that it seems so frustrating.  I'd recommend looking into a couple good books like How to Brew or The Complete Joy of Homebrewing.  Are you getting some advice from your local homebrew shop?  Some shops do hand out really poor advice sometimes.  Just stick with it and keep asking questions on sites like this.  You'll get it all figured out pretty quickly.  Making beer shouldn't be that tough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-07-08T11:15:26.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2010-07-09T06:59:18.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it's not -easy- but I've seen a method unrelated to beer used on a bottle.  Looked quite nice, actually.  As a simple art project, friend of mine used photo paper in a plain inkjet printer to make a &quot;label&quot;.  Which was then scissor cut by hand and adhered using clear packing tape, also scissor cut to make a clean back edge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't know if this is the sort of thing you're looking for, but the clear tape layer did a good job protecting the photo paper and would do well to protect a bottle label - so long as it wasn't doused in a cooler full of ice water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bonus would be that cleaning off the bottle for re-use would be as easy as pulling off some clear packing tape.  Or using &quot;goo-gone&quot; if it's stubborn.  ;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="KO" LastActivityDate="2010-07-09T06:59:18.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2010-07-09T08:21:31.703" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beerlabelizer.com is great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="584" LastActivityDate="2010-07-09T08:21:31.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1431" CreationDate="2010-07-09T21:34:20.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use swingtop bottles all the time that are either clear or green.  As long as you keep them out of the light they will not skunk the beer.  I have found that bottling in 1 liter swingtops takes a fraction of the time that using 12 oz. bottles or even 22's does.  I remove the gaskets, run the bottles through the dishwasher with no detergent, and soak the gaskets in starsan or vodka before closing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Beer Baron" LastActivityDate="2010-07-09T21:34:20.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2010-07-09T23:27:44.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always make a template with 3-4 copies in an 8.5&quot;*11&quot; PDF file and take it to a professional printer.&#xA;The number of copies would be dependent upon the size of the labels.&#xA;Post an update in the future with the picture of the label in the original post, just for fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-07-09T23:27:44.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2010-07-10T03:57:52.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my wine I use a place called Landmark Label in Fremont.  You have to order 500 labels minimum and they come on a roll (of 500), but you could do something that has a logo or whatnot and then an area where you could write in the details so you could use the same roll for years to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just contact them and send over the PDF, pick out your paper and rock and roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-07-10T03:57:52.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2349" CreationDate="2010-07-10T04:14:45.833" Score="5" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 20 years of fermenting in glass carboys, I recently dove in and bought a Blichmann Fermenator.  I Scrubbed it according to the docs that came with it, and then gave it my usual BTF soak and air dry before brewing with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first batch had a pretty godawful metallic or.. I don't really know how to classify it... harsh smell after 1 week in primary.  Same recipe I had just brewed successfully a month prior, sans the funky smell.  After a week I dumped trub, dry hopped for 2 weeks of secondary.  The smell remained.  It's not a spoilage smell-- after sharing it with other homebrew geeks we all agree it's not an infection smell.  It's pretty astringent, slightly metallic, maybe somewhat chemical.  Though my mash was only at 150º so I shouldn't have extracted tannins to give astringency.  The beer tastes fine, not great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, when I popped the lid after 3 weeks, there was a layer of black scum on the sides of the fermenator just above the krausen ring.  Oily.  Not green or white like most mold.  The beer itself looked like... well... beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up dumping the batch and brewing again.  This new batch has remnants of that smell, but not quite as bad.  It was a long road to get here, but here's the question, at long last:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is there something I need to know about fermenting in steel?  Does this funky smell blow off once it gets to glass or gets carbonated?  Or was I blowing it off before by racking/oxygenating and just never got to smell my beer at this stage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-07-11T02:26:42.553" LastActivityDate="2010-07-11T02:26:42.553" Title="Fermenator Question(s)" Tags="|stainless|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2271" CreationDate="2010-07-10T04:41:35.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For fruit, get a refractometer.  $50 or so online at williamsbrewing.com or other beer/wine shops.  Mash up a handful of the fruit 'til it's juice and then dribble the juice on the refractometer lens.  That will give you a brix reading.  There's probably some formal math you can use to get exact numbers here, but here's some basic info:  24 brix when fermented dry will give you roughly 14% alcohol +/- 1% depending on just how dry it goes.  So then it's some fairly basic math based on the amount of this juice you're using and the gravity of your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can achieve basically the same thing with a triple beam hydrometer that shows brix, but you'll need to mash up more of the fruit and I've found refractometer readings to be more accurate with pulpy fruit.  Then again, more fruit will give you a more accurate reading because some cherries might be 15 brix, some might be 18 brix so you want a good &quot;field sample&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-07-10T04:41:35.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2347" CreationDate="2010-07-11T02:25:40.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I read on another forum the exact same problem with this product.&#xA;I think I remember its a finish that is put on the metal during fabrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd call blichmann directly to straighten it out.  They are a stand up group and stand behind their products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-07-11T02:25:40.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2353" CreationDate="2010-07-11T22:08:31.600" Score="4" ViewCount="1745" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I brewed my second all-grain batch today, and, like with my first all-grain batch, I misjudged the final volume and ended up with slightly under 4 gallons in my carboy. Does anyone have any good resources for approximately how much will boil off? I guess I'm undershooting because I don't want to be too low on my gravity with too much volume, but at the same time going through a brew day and cheating myself out of over a gallon of beer isn't efficient for time or money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastActivityDate="2010-07-12T14:29:10.133" Title="Misjudging Volumes in All-Grain" Tags="|all-grain|mash-volume|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2350" CreationDate="2010-07-12T03:39:33.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though your beer is stronger than it would have been.. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a pretty good calculator for figuring out how much water to start with, which is a huge plus: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know how fast you boil off water? Aka what your evaporation rate is? If so, you can do some fun math and figure it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with total gravity. Total gravity is how much sugar is in your wort, regardless of volume. Add 1000 gallons or boil it to a syrup, total gravity remains the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a reading (at room temp) with your hydrometer (if you have one. If not, get one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to take the 1.0 out of the reading, so 1.050 becomes 50. If you need a formula for that, it's &lt;code&gt;( gravity reading - 1 ) * 100&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiply that number times the number of gallons you currently have. So, 6 gallons at 1.050:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;50 * 6 = 300&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;300 total gravity points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know you boil off at 1 gallon per hour, then at the end of the boil, you'll have 5 gallons, with a gravity of 1.060:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;300 gravity points / 5 gallons = 60&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get to a gravity of, say, 1.060, and want to know how much water to boil off (simple version):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;300 gravity points / 60 original gravity = 5&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;6 gallons (current volume) - 5 gallons (desired volume) = 1 gallon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can get more complex, obviously. If you want to boil it down so that at the start of your timed boil you're at enough volume to end with 5 gallons, you have to know your evaporation rate. But, you can still figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps, if not, please comment and I'll try to expand on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-07-12T03:39:33.770" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2350" CreationDate="2010-07-12T11:46:34.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter what other people get.  Everyone's equipment is different, and everyones environment (climate, humidity) is different.  In 90minutes I boil off between 1.25 to 1.5 gallons.  Equipment variances are just to great person to person, especially when it comes to the boil right.  What one guy calls a rolling boil could be someone else's idea of a simmer. etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would really do yourself a better service if you figure out what your boil off rate was yourself rather than looking for an equation.  Just look at what volume you started with and where you ended up.  Then make adjustments for next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;least&lt;/strong&gt; talked about but &lt;strong&gt;most&lt;/strong&gt; important part of all grain brewing is probably volume measurements.  You need to accurately be able to measure the water going into the mash, the wort coming out of the mash (grain absorption), the amount in the kettle pre and post boil (evap rate), and the amount making it into the fermenter (brewhouse efficiency).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the time now in your early all grain brewing career and make some sort of measuring stick for your kettle.  Do it before you brew your next batch and it will make the process much less of a mystery going forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-07-12T11:46:34.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2350" CreationDate="2010-07-12T14:29:10.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing all grain for six years and I'm finally getting the right volume into the keg at the end of the brew.  You can get close with calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mash&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grain absorbs about one pint per pound.  Divide the weight of your grain by eight to get the number of gallons it will absorb.  You won't lose any water during sparging because the grain has already absorbed as much water as it can hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important, however, to figure out how much sweet wort you leave behind in the mash tun.  My cooler with manifold tun couldn't suck up all the liquid in the bottom.  I'd leave a quart or more in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Boil&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the pre-boil volume.  It is an important aid in figuring the final gravity and hop utilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't blast the wort. It's sufficient to maintain a 6-10% evaporation rate according to the pros I talk to.  Listen to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/600&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Strong episode&lt;/a&gt; on the boil for the whos and whyfores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops and trub will absorb a small amount of water, especially in an IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the post-boil volume.  Keep in mind that boiling water takes up 4% more volume than water at room temperature.  In other words, if you have 5 gallons of wort at a boil, it will seem like 5.2 gallons.  Adjust accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Account for any wort left in the kettle when all is said and done.  I was wasting almost a quart before changing my pick up tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-07-12T14:29:10.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2357" CreationDate="2010-07-13T03:38:17.567" Score="5" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;My buddy works at a community garden, and they have a fence full of Cascade ready for the picking. He estimates a few pounds of hops are on the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What has to happen between him picking them off the vine, and me putting them into my boil? How do we get the hops ready for brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'm going to do a Pale Ale with the one hop, a la &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1390/hop-schedule-for-single-hop-ale-brewing&quot;&gt;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1390/hop-schedule-for-single-hop-ale-brewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T06:07:17.187" Title="Drying freshly picked hops" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2354" CreationDate="2010-07-13T03:52:36.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a freshhop IPA last year in which I piked the hops and 10 minutes later they were in my brew kettle.  Freshop ales have a slightly different character than ales brewed otherwise-- they're a bit more resinous sometimes, but are really nice and have a great hop character.  You have to use more hops by weight though-- the extra water throws off measurements.  Still, brewing a freshop is highly recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I'm planning on using a food dehydrator this year with the hops leftover after brewing another freshop... that is, unless I read something here that sounds like a better plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My measurements for a freshop aren't the most scientific...  I used this many (see photo) for the flavor hop addition (20 minutes in the boil) and then a few more handfuls in addition to a healthy dose of purchased hops for bittering and aroma.  The rest were simcoe and amarillo that I purchased.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eazS5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eazS5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iluminada.com/images/CRW_0702.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iluminada.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-24T06:07:17.187" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T06:07:17.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2358" CreationDate="2010-07-13T07:56:27.947" Score="5" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading the How To Brew book, and it (amongst other sites) recommends rehydrating yeast before pitching it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sites suggest adding a teaspoon of sugar with the yeast, others just seem to recommend hydrating. All of them seem to suggest that after 30 mins or so, you should see some visible bubbling etc in the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done about 9 extract brews so far, and tried rehydrating the yeast on the last 3 or 4. However, whenever I try this I never get any response from the yeast - it just sits there looking exactly the same as when I first put it in the water. (Have tried with and without adding sugar). Usually after an hour or so, I'll give up and pour it into the beer which so far has worked fine every time anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this step worth doing? Should I be seeing more happening in the yeast than I am? Or am I just not being patient enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dave &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:08:09.333" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:08:09.333" Title="Preparing Yeast" Tags="|yeast|techniques|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2354" CreationDate="2010-07-13T11:45:49.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use them fresh or you can use them dry.&#xA;The easiest way to dry them is to lay them out on a screen in a warm attic.&#xA;Getting some air circulation is even better though.  So you can stack them on some window screens (cleaned first for grim) over a box fan on low and pull air through them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are my ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-07-13T11:45:49.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2356" CreationDate="2010-07-13T12:54:50.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Re-hydrating is definitely worth doing.  Usually there are better directions on the package or at the manufacturers website.  The process you described though is a good rule of thumb and its what I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do it without sugar, and I feel that's sort of a bad idea.  Just use water.  The foaming the some people describe is not any type of yeast activity its just what happens as the yeast rehydrate.  Depending on your waters conditions you may or may not get much foaming.  I get just a little 1/4 inch layer that dissipates rather quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put dry yeast in water and 20 minutes later there are no granuals and its a tan creamy latte like color through out, you've done it right.  Which is what it sounds like you've been doing; so keep it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-07-13T12:54:50.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2360" CreationDate="2010-07-13T13:15:09.803" Score="7" ViewCount="33435" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just opened up a couple bottles of a brown ale I just brewed, and there is much less carbonation then I had hoped.  The beer was in the primary for a week, secondary for 3 weeks, then primed and bottled for two weeks before tasting.  Is there anything I can do at this point?  In the future, what should I be looking out for to prevent this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jason" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T01:14:52.477" Title="Under-carbonated bottled beer" Tags="|carbonation|bottling|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2359" CreationDate="2010-07-13T14:03:21.567" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd give it another week or two before opening any more.  Sometimes you need 3 - 6 weeks to get full carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you may not have used enough priming sugar.  Using this priming sugar calculator can help in future batches:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot;&gt;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There could be other problems, but this is the most likely one.  Other potential causes are too little head space between the beer and cap, using screw top bottles that can allow air to escape, and a few other random issues, but the priming sugar is likely the culprit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-07-13T14:03:21.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2359" CreationDate="2010-07-13T15:15:51.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this same issue back a few months ago. The problem was that there were not enough yeast still alive to consume my priming sugar. I ended up dumping out every bottle very carefully into a bucket, boiled some water and added 2 cups of priming sugar to it, siphoned all of it back into a carboy, added more yeast, and let it ferment out. Then I rebottled and everything carbonated fine and the beer turned out just fine. This probably is not the proper way to handle the situation, but it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-07-13T15:15:51.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2359" CreationDate="2010-07-14T06:35:53.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm adding this as another answer because I agree with all of Markskar's answer and the first part of Jordan's (though I admire his dedication re: the 2nd part of his answer).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd just wait.  Make sure to age them in an area that doesn't get too cold or too hot-- like 60 - 70º.  Depending on your ABV and the amount of priming sugar you used, carbonation time varies.  I made a barleywine last year and the 10% ABV killed off the majority of the yeast in there.  It took 3 months to fully carbonate, but now it's pouring a head you can almost stand a fork up in.  So be patient and see what happens.  So if you have high ABV, that's a factor for sure.  It was also quite cold in my garage for the first month, and I'm suspecting that summer temps encouraged the remaining yeast to come out of hibernation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-07-14T06:35:53.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2364" CreationDate="2010-07-14T14:54:50.927" Score="3" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a effective way to clean the inside of copper fittings after sweating them together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit: eye candy]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.deanandadie.net/2010/07/hard-plumbing-the-stand/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See here for eye-candy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hdvJu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plumbing&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D0GAs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plumbing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T17:58:45.813" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T17:58:45.813" Title="Cleaning up the sweat &amp; flux" Tags="|cleaning|copper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2363" CreationDate="2010-07-14T18:12:45.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they're not attached to anything, maybe soak them in PBW for 30 minutes? If they're attached in a system, run PBR through the system for a few minutes. Either way, then rinse, sani, and brew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-07-14T18:12:45.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2363" CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:09:34.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've watched plumbers fix various pipe joints in the past, and they typically run water through them for a few minutes and then declare it good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-07-16T13:09:34.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-07-16T17:43:39.247" Score="5" ViewCount="6093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I added pectic enzyme when the must of my rhubarb wine was too warm after I misread the directions in the book where I found the recipe. I didn't notice until after the next day when I had already pitched the yeast. Will the pectic enzyme still help the wine clear? Should I re add it again at some other point?wine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T02:29:12.143" Title="How important is temperature when adding pectic enzyme?" Tags="|wine|pectic-enzyme|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2278" CreationDate="2010-07-17T04:30:26.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get some wine shippers from Uline.  You can pick from styro or recycled cardboard packaging.  You'll want to bottle into 22s though so they fit properly.  Tell UPS its just homemade Apple Cider (not hard cider) or Sasparilla because they won't let you ship alcohol unless you're an approved shipper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-07-17T04:30:26.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2255" CreationDate="2010-07-17T04:40:51.140" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just waited until the winter and then dug up the entire rhizome for each plant (they were pretty big, it was a lot of digging).  I separated the rhizome from the soil and put them in an open box in the new house's garage.  It was cold in there, which I think is pretty key.  I left them in my garage for around a month after the move because I didn't have time to plant them and hadn't made a space for it.  My cat crapped on them while in the box too, but they started growing right there in the box I had them in-- lack of dirt and all.  Like a potato that sprouts in the cupboard.  That was 6 months ago.  Planted them in the early spring and they're now flowering (see attached photo shot today).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point being:  they're pretty hardy plants.  I think you can just dig the crown and go with the &quot;relax, don't worry, have a homebrew&quot; mantra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T08:31:52.687" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T08:31:52.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2373" CreationDate="2010-07-18T18:45:13.667" Score="5" ViewCount="9441" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the effects of having too much water in your mash? If it's too &quot;soupy&quot; or watery or whatnot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-07-19T12:18:34.777" Title="What are the effects of a watery mash?" Tags="|all-grain|mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2371" CreationDate="2010-07-18T19:17:16.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The major effect is dilution of enzyme concentration.  In a watery mash the enzymes take longer to convert starches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it takes longer to convert, you will ultimately end up with a more fermentable wort because high concentrations of sugars hinder enzyme action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-6.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Manipulating the Starch Conversion Rest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-07-18T19:17:16.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2371" CreationDate="2010-07-18T21:20:45.713" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As homebrewers we're used to 1.25-1.5 qts/lb. But in some pro brewing set ups they mash in one vessel and lauter in another.  In order to transfer from one vessel to the next they use better than 2qts/lb in some cases for pump-ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some speak of getting a thinner beer with a thinner mash, but i think within 10-20% of the target thickness you won't see much of a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More water does dilute the enzymes to an extent also, which has an impact on conversion time.  But the relationship between enzyme and substrate ratio for conversion efficiency and time is not a linear relationship. So at the end of the &quot;curve&quot; we are operating in there is tolerance for more water than expected, and very little if any change in conversion time is seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind most of us mashing for 60mins tend to mash longer than is actually required to convert.  So 60 minutes will still cover you even if you use 2X-3X water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-07-19T12:18:34.777" LastActivityDate="2010-07-19T12:18:34.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2366" CreationDate="2010-07-19T01:10:37.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making plum wine right now and was wondering about this.  While this may not be an official &quot;answer&quot; here, I have read that you can pretty much add pectic enzyme at any point in the process, but it's supposedly best to add it in the beginning.  Pectic enzyme effectively un-does the work pectin does in your wine-- pectin wants to make it into a gel, but you want a clear wine in the end.  Pectic enzyme works to shorten the molecular chains that pectin forms in your must and wine-- while most fruit doesn't have enough pectin to make a gel on its own, those chains cause haze later.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience making wine tells me that if you're aging your wine in oak or in a carboy with oak chips for at least a few months, you can add the enzyme powder whenever you want and it'll do its work over time, similar to the way malolactic bacteria work on your wine once its in oak to covert malic acid into lactic.  I'm pitching yeast tonight after a day long fruit rest and don't have any pectic enzyme on-hand, so I'm going to add it midway through fermentation and will report back on how it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-07-19T01:10:37.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1367" CreationDate="2010-07-19T19:00:15.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey there! Not an answer, but I've got the same question. I'm open to any suggestions of types of cupcakes or beers. Also, would love to hear how your party went Elisha.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Adam" LastActivityDate="2010-07-19T19:00:15.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2359" CreationDate="2010-07-20T15:39:09.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expectations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've definitely seen carbonation increase substantially in the third week. Beyond that, it drops off, but doesn't stop. I tend to bottle in various sizes (12oz, 500ml, 22oz, 1L). I've heard others say that the bigger bottles tend to get more carbonated than the smaller ones, due to an approximately equal amount of head space for a larger volume of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a week, try a couple of bottles of the same size from different sides of the batch.  If you get different carbonation levels, it may be that you didn't have your priming sugar adequately mixed through your batch. To mitigate this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't make your priming sugar solution too thick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put it in the bottling bucket first&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack your beer on top of the solution to mix well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give it a gentle but thorough stir with a sanitized spoon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give it another stir halfway through the bottling process&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to maintain consistent head space in filling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fixes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've never tried this, but you might try opening the bottles, throwing in a couple of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/munton-s-carb-tabs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Munton's Carb Tabs&lt;/a&gt; (one to replace the carbonation you just let out, one to add some extra) into each 12 oz bottle.  They get mixed reviews, though, so I'd be more likely to try one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/coopers-carbonation-drops.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cooper's Carbonation Drop&lt;/a&gt; per 22 oz bottle. Might get a gusher. Might hit it just right.  If I were to do this, I would condition the bottles in a container that's going to be able to mitigate the damage of a bottle bomb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time. Leave them alone and come back to them later. You might see better results as time goes by.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-07-20T15:39:09.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2378" CreationDate="2010-07-20T16:00:52.450" Score="2" ViewCount="510" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's summer, and that means that my basement is too warm for English and American ales, but I did make a really fine French farmhouse ale (saison) at fermentation temperatures of about 75F.  I've heard tell (via &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewlikeamonk.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stan Hiernymous&lt;/a&gt;) that I can get better results by starting the fermentation off at a lower temperature (60F) and letting the fermenter slowly come up to temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done this before?  How long do I need to keep it cool before letting it warm up? Are the results worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2010-07-22T21:06:55.523" LastActivityDate="2010-07-22T21:06:55.523" Title="Initial fermentation temperature for saisons?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2377" CreationDate="2010-07-20T16:33:37.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do this.  I start it at 62-65F, I hold it for 3 days that way.  Then I remove the temperature restriction and let it start to free rise up to where ever it wants to go, say 72F.  Then I start to actually drive it to 75F or more with a heating pad and thermo controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had good luck with a saison this way, and a couple brewing buddies do it the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes the results are worth it.  Seems to have fewer higher order alcohols, cleaner drinking quality to it (sort of intangible) and it goes to completion a little easier.  The slower start also seemed to help with the fruity ester complexity a bit too.  I think maybe the yeast are a little to aggressive with a warm start and they might actually use up some of the precursors to the nice flavor compounds you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a friend that just jumped in with an 80F ferment and his stalled out a little early and it didn't seem to be as crisp or bright on the palate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-07-20T16:33:37.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2402" CreationDate="2010-07-20T17:06:23.557" Score="4" ViewCount="925" Body="&lt;p&gt;Columbus is such a high-alpha variety that I find I can only use very little of it for bittering.  I have a pound of these things and I would eventually like to get through them.  Has anyone used Columbus as a flavor or aroma hop?  What can I expect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-07-27T14:26:14.623" Title="What flavors can I expect with a late/whirlpool addition of Columbus hops?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-07-23T02:18:01.693" Score="1" ViewCount="1166" Body="&lt;p&gt;just joined because I'm currently force-carbing a keg downstairs, and i've already gone through about half of a 5 Lb tank. Is this normal? Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Monkeybomber" LastActivityDate="2010-07-23T14:41:58.527" Title="Using force carbing, how long does 5 lbs CO2 last you?" Tags="|co2|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2381" CreationDate="2010-07-23T11:27:26.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No thats not normal.&#xA;I can push and force carb 4-6 kegs with one 5# tank.  Sometimes more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It varies depending on how carbonated (volumes of CO2) you want your beers to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing is a factor of how well balanced your system is.  IF its balanced right you won't tinker with the settings as much.  And people how have perfectly balanced draft systems also tend to be much more leak free on all their gas fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've gone through one tank already, I suspect you have a small leak somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-07-23T14:41:58.527" LastActivityDate="2010-07-23T14:41:58.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2396" CreationDate="2010-07-23T11:28:58.913" Score="3" ViewCount="837" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an at home draft system, how do you check for leaks in the CO2 side of the set up?  How often do you need to check for leaks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:39:21.647" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:39:21.647" Title="Checking for CO2 leaks" Tags="|techniques|equipment|carbonation|kegging|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2390" CreationDate="2010-07-23T11:30:36.947" Score="6" ViewCount="2148" Body="&lt;p&gt;How often do you need to clean out your beer lines when using a home draft system?&#xA;What type of cleaner do you use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I leave sanitizer in the tubing when a line isn't in use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:39:47.573" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T14:51:55.090" Title="Cleaning out beer lines" Tags="|techniques|equipment|kegging|sanitation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2388" CreationDate="2010-07-23T11:57:30.240" Score="12" ViewCount="14085" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you sanitize a bunch of bottles and store them upside down on a tree or in a box (still upside down); how long can you store them like that before you feel the need to resanitize them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way to store them to keep them sanitary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T02:11:43.860" Title="How long do sanitized bottles keep?" Tags="|bottling|sanitation|equipment|techniques|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2385" CreationDate="2010-07-23T13:09:04.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't trust bottles stored for more than a few hours. While bottles are being kept in the box, air can circulate inside them, bringing any sort of unwanted predators. What I always do is sanitise the bottles and, as soon as they are dry, bottle the beer. I may be over-cautious but I can't see any that you can keep germs out of the bottles for longer times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-07-23T13:09:04.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:08:55.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found How to Brew: Everything You Need To Know To Brew Beer Right The First Time to be a great book when I started homebrewing.  Palmer did a great job describing everything I needed to know about this hobby in a very easy to understand format.  I still continue to refer to this book everytime I brew a new batch.  Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Kevin Petruzielo" LastActivityDate="2010-07-23T14:08:55.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2385" CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:13:06.367" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general rule of thumb is that you want to use anything you sanitize within 30 minutes of sanitizing it. That is, sanitize and use, don't sanitize and then store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="476" LastActivityDate="2010-07-23T14:13:06.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2384" CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:17:49.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to clean out my beer lines everytime change a keg to make sure that there are no deposits of sugars and yeasts in my line that could affect the taste of my beer. I use the deluxe beer line cleaning kit from Micro Matic.  I never have tried leaving sanitizer in my tubes when I don't have them in use.  It may work.  Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Kevin Petruzielo" LastActivityDate="2010-07-23T14:17:49.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2384" CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:20:49.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't had a home keg system in quite some time (working on remedying that) but I used to do a weekly (or so) hot salt water flush and would use a full soak every month or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't leave sanitizer in the tubing when not in use. Depending on the type you're using, it could cake or be corrosive over time. Instead, make it a practice to sanitize just before use. It's not difficult or time consuming. As you're getting everything else ready to put a beer on tap, give the tubing a full soak in either no-rinse sanitizer or (what I prefer) a bleach water soak with a bisulfate or metabisulfate rinse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best practice is: new keg = clean line. Bars and such can get away with multiple kegs per cleaning due to volume/time, but your home system likely won't see that frequency of use (and if it does... damn, dood!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="476" LastActivityDate="2010-07-23T14:20:49.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2359" CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:26:10.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give it time and make sure you're storing your beer at a reasonable temperature while it conditions. I generally cellar mine upon bottling (~60-65 degrees year-round) and have only once had an issue with low carbonation, which did correct over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="476" LastActivityDate="2010-07-23T14:26:10.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2385" CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:38:31.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize the question wasn't &quot;how do you do it&quot; and more &quot;what is the rule&quot;, but, not being a microbiologist, I'll stick with how I do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use sani in a bucket with a spigot. I fill about 6 bottles to the brim, and by the time the 6th is full, the first has had its 30 seconds of contact time. I dump it out, dip the neck in the sani, and set it next to the bottling bucket. After all 6 are there, I fill them all. If any of them look dry, I'll dip them again just to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't fear the foam!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I guess in answer to your question, less than 5 minutes in my setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-07-23T14:38:31.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2383" CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:41:09.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I had my kegging setup set up I don't know that I ever checked for leaks. But, it appeared to be working just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess would be to drop any connection point into water while the system is operating, if that is a possibility, and look for bubbles. Otherwise, take soapy water and rub it all over connection points and look for bubbles. Just like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trailspace.com/articles/how-to-fix-leaky-sleeping-pad.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sleeping pad&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-07-23T14:41:09.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1367" CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:51:34.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have enjoyed a peanutbuetter cupcake with a long trail coffee stout before and found that combo to be amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Kevin Petruzielo" LastActivityDate="2010-07-23T14:51:34.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-07-23T15:12:08.293" Score="6" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to add oak chips to my scotch ale. I was thinking about what sort of scotch to soak the chips in before hand. And then I thought, how much does it really matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what point can one tell the difference between types of whiskey an ounce of oak chips were soaked in, when they've been sitting in 5 gallons for a while? For example, if I use the exact same kind of whiskey, but one is a 12 year and one is an 18, can you tell? How about Jim Beam vs. Jack Daniels? Jim vs. Johnny? What about scotch vs. bourbon? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T19:35:08.960" Title="Detecting differences in the type of whiskey used to soak oak" Tags="|whiskey|aging|flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2383" CreationDate="2010-07-23T15:24:37.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drip soapy water on connections and areas of the system that are likely to leak and look for suds (that indicates a leak).  This is how you test natural gas lines for leaks, so I imagine it would work with CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-07-23T15:24:37.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2400" CreationDate="2010-07-27T02:32:01.587" Score="1" ViewCount="874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering purchasing a couple of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?products_id=10775&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these plastic ported carboys&lt;/a&gt;. From reading the description, it seems that I'd be able to rack directly into secondary and/or bottles without the need for siphoning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone use these and can anyone recommend for/against the use of ported carboys as opposed to siphoning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-07-27T02:40:13.910" LastActivityDate="2010-07-28T23:40:52.620" Title="Ported carboy vs. siphoning?" Tags="|carboy|siphon|better-bottle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2401" CreationDate="2010-07-27T03:52:30.397" Score="4" ViewCount="3264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Hefeweizen (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1592532934&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wild Flower Wheat&lt;/a&gt; pg 135) in the fermenter that is ready to be racked to the secondary.  The recipe calls for 5 days in the secondary, however the only secondary fermenters I have are plastic.  I have read that plastic fermenters are a poor choice for secondaries because they are oxygen permeable. Should I worry about this?  If not, could I simply use my bottling bucket for secondary fermentation, there by saving myself a step before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never used a secondary before, so I would like to try it for the experience.  However, I don't want to skunk my beer either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="573" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T16:00:23.277" Title="Secondary Fermentation In Bottling Bucket" Tags="|secondary|plastic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2398" CreationDate="2010-07-27T04:40:33.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about it at all. 5 days in a plastic bucket will be fine. I've left beer in a bottling bucket for much, much longer than that, and it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-07-27T04:40:33.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2397" CreationDate="2010-07-27T11:13:51.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started using them a year ago. I think they are &lt;em&gt;fantastic&lt;/em&gt;! I love being able to to simply open the port and transfer my liquids around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't had any troubles with leaking or breaking. The parts seem solid enough. I highly recommend the Better Bottles with Ports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-07-27T11:13:51.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2398" CreationDate="2010-07-27T12:31:08.037" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Secondary for a Hefe seems silly to me.  Leave it in primary for 5 more days is a better idea.  Then rack right to bottling bucket for bottling day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually 5 days in secondary for any beer is a waste of time really.  Any benefit isn't worth the extra cleaning of equipment and risk of exposure to oxygen or airborne contaminants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-07-27T12:31:08.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2379" CreationDate="2010-07-27T14:26:14.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Columbus works well as a flavor/aroma hop.  I used to do a single hop Columbus DIPA a few times a year, but I did it so many times that I began to grow tired of the flavor and had to stop using Columbus altogether.  It has a nice piney aroma and flavor.  More pine than anything, but it's a little has a little bit of citrus character too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only drawback, in my opinion, is that if you overdo it you can end up with grassy or metallic flavors.  I did a huge barleywine (OG 1.110) last September and I used a ton of Columbus throughout the boil, at 10 minutes, at flameout, and then dry hopped in both primary and secondary.  The grassy flavors really detracted from the flavor for about 6 months, when the off-flavor finally started to fade.  Now, almost 11 months later, the beer is starting to taste great, very similar to Sierra Nevada Bigfoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, I think Columbus is a great flavor and aroma hop, but should be used in limited quantities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-07-27T14:26:14.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2384" CreationDate="2010-07-27T14:38:02.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I clean my lines about once a week with Oxy Clean or PBW.  Also, whenever I clean a keg I use the gas to run the cleaner through the keg and out the lines, then do the same with water to rinse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I wouldn't leave sanitizer in the lines for extended periods of time.  Contact time for iodophor and StarSan is supposed to be limited to around 20 - 30 minutes.  Doing it longer won't kill you, but the porous plastic can take on some off flavors that can stick around for awhile until they work themselves out, which might be several pours later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-07-27T14:38:02.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2395" CreationDate="2010-07-27T15:13:35.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the age of the Scotch would make much difference, but some Scotches have more of a peaty, smokey smell to them than others, and that flavor should carry over to the beer.  But if that's what you're going for, you could just use smoked peat as part of the grist (I'm not a fan of this, but you might like it as it imparts a bacon-like flavor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as if you could tell the difference between different brands, I think it would depend on how much whiskey the person drinks.  Someone who drinks it frequently and has a preference for one brand would likely be able to tell the difference, but I think the average drinker wouldn't notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And bourbon aging definitely has a different flavor than Scotch aging.  I've had many bourbon oaked brews, but didn't try any Scotch barrel aged brews until Paradox from BrewDog.  The flavor is distinctly Scotch, and very interesting (but they charge WAY too much for that stuff where I live--$10 for a 12oz bottle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-07-27T15:13:35.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2405" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-07-27T19:46:03.903" Score="8" ViewCount="846" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between fermenting a beer solely with Brettanomyces (or some blend of sour yeast) versus adding it to the secondary after primary fermentation with a non-sour yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-07-29T00:28:15.893" Title="Brett: Primary or Secondary" Tags="|brettanomyces|fermentation|primary|secondary|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-07-28T04:35:31.627" Score="3" ViewCount="988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used too much maltodextrin in a chocolate stout, and it feels almost like drinking syrup.  Is there any good way to mitigate the thickness it imparts without watering down the flavor of the beer (too much)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="565" LastActivityDate="2010-12-28T19:23:42.497" Title="Countering excessive maltodextrin" Tags="|body|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2406" CreationDate="2010-07-28T05:15:29.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's physically thick, I think the only method would be to add water. At the far extreme, you could make another batch that's a bit watery and mix them.. How much did you add / how much did you mean to add?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-07-28T05:15:29.433" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2406" CreationDate="2010-07-28T19:24:43.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the beer is in a keg or fermenter, you could try adding some purified amylase.  You might be able to find it at an online homebrew shop.  Amylases are a class of enzymes responsible for breaking down starches in the mash.  Residual maltodextrin should be able to be digested the same way. Primarily by Beta-amylase I think.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On option may be the use of Beano if you can't get purified amylase extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only trouble with adding these things is that they tend to be tough to control as far as the end point goes.  Often you end up drying out the beer too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to pitch Brett or some Pediococcus.  These yeasts can utilize dextrins as fuel sources better that normal Saccharomyces.  So if you don't mind having something slightly soured and funky that might work well too.  Depending on the amount of maltodextrin left that will dictate the amount of Brett or Pedio character you end up with.  Done right it could be pretty nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer is bottled already, I think you are out of luck.  Start blending it with other beer if its that bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-07-28T19:24:43.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2405" CreationDate="2010-07-28T21:58:54.197" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll have to do some checking, but from what I understand, the biggest difference is time, the next being a vast difference in sourness.  If you ferment first with a non-souring yeast the majority of the fermentable sugars will be converted quite quickly.  Brett is very slow to ferment and also to multiply.  If it has to ferment all of the sugars alone it will take a considerable amount of extra time to complete fermentation, months longer.  As far as flavor is concerned, I'll have to get back to you. I think the Pediococcus and Lactobacillus are mostly responsible for the sour taste but I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that the Brettanomyces is responsible for the &quot;barnyard&quot; flavor.  With all of the sugars being fermented by only souring yeasts I think you would end up with a significantly more sour beer, one I may be hesitant to drink.  Something like vinegar maybe.  If the temperature gets to hot in Belgium, these bacteria &quot;yeast&quot;  increase their fermentation rate and actually yield a vinegar like product that the brewers will actually use to clean brewing equipment in the brewery. I've been wanting to try this myself though and just be cautious of the temperature, keep it below 75 to be safe and see how it turns out but I'm worried about ending up with vinegar regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-07-28T21:58:54.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2397" CreationDate="2010-07-28T23:40:52.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started using ported Better Bottles myself, and have been really pleased with the results.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did have a problem at first with getting the tubing to fit tight enough in the valve to siphon off the beer, but the Better Bottle web site has very clear instructions on the correct tube sizes to use, and that fixed my problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastActivityDate="2010-07-28T23:40:52.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2010-07-28T23:54:08.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make my labels in business card format using Microsoft Publisher.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print them on perforated business card stock, spray both sides with clear lacquer (to make them waterproof so they don't run in the cooler) punch a single hole in the corner and tie them to your bottles using string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage to this method is that you don't have to scrape the labels off when you're done - just cut the strings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastActivityDate="2010-07-28T23:54:08.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2405" CreationDate="2010-07-29T00:28:15.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to brew a mild next week with Brett. I'd heard it was better to use a non-Brett yeast in the primary and put the Brett in the Secondary. But I've seen folks use only Brett...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Ruination Press" LastActivityDate="2010-07-29T00:28:15.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2322" CreationDate="2010-07-31T04:40:54.467" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, you asked me to leave it as an answer, so here it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this order: 1. It's cold. 2. It's got alcohol. 3. It's got enough sugar to go well with Wheaties or is neutral enough to work with Froot Loops. Basically, that means just about anything. 4. Lightly hopped. Hops are tough on morning mouth. But then again, the antibacterial properties in hops probably kill off all the funk in your mouth leftover from the stripper mammaries you were licking the night before... oh wait, I'm talking about me again... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-07-31T04:40:54.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-07-31T04:48:27.263" Score="4" ViewCount="11839" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last month I bottled my 09 Chardonnay.  I had a small (15 gallon) french oak barrel on the side that I aged some of my topping wine in, blended into the final blend.  It was used for Brandy once, then reconditioned (shaved) and re-toasted before I used it to age a Chardonnay for 10 months.  I just threw an IPA into it, sat it for 10 days w/ dry hops.  Booya.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:  with wine you can use a barrel 3 times (3 years) if you're religious about barrel sanitation and burn sulfur 1x/month while storing.  With beer, how many batches can I get out of the thing before all the oak tannin is extracted?  This 15 gallon barrel is so &lt;strong&gt;perfectly conditioned&lt;/strong&gt; for IPA that I'd like to keep her in the mix as long as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-07-31T20:00:00.027" Title="Barrel Aging- How Many Times Can I Use One?" Tags="|barrels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2414" CreationDate="2010-07-31T16:51:57.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't really speak to non-sour brews, but that is a great question. As far as sour beer goes, there's a belgian brewery that will reuse barrels for 70-80 years. Pretty much until the structural integrity is too worn down by the acidic nature of the sour. They also don't pitch yeast, merely using what is left in the pores of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know why you can only use a wine barrel 3 times? I realize that the &quot;guess and check&quot; method is dangerous, because that's a lot of beer to waste. But can you tell the difference batch to batch? If not, then just keep on keeping on until the barrel falls apart. If so, then maybe when one batch isn't quite oaky enough, that's the end of that barrel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-07-31T20:00:00.027" LastActivityDate="2010-07-31T20:00:00.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2420" CreationDate="2010-08-02T23:29:15.470" Score="6" ViewCount="2701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've already made some batches of all-grain ales, and now I want to try my first lager, the only problem is that I have 2 fermentation buckets but only 1 fits on my refrigerator. So my question is: is it possible to make a lager only with primary fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my Vienna Lager recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;Ingredients:&#xA;&#xA;------------&#xA;&#xA;Amount        Item                                      Type         % or IBU      &#xA;&#xA;1,25 kg       Pale Malt (2 Row) Bel (5,9 EBC)           Grain        25,00 %       &#xA;&#xA;1,25 kg       Pilsner (2 Row) Bel (3,9 EBC)             Grain        25,00 %       &#xA;&#xA;1,00 kg       Vienna Malt (6,9 EBC)                     Grain        20,00 %       &#xA;&#xA;0,75 kg       Munich Malt (17,7 EBC)                    Grain        15,00 %       &#xA;&#xA;0,45 kg       Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (19,7 EBC)     Grain        9,00 %        &#xA;&#xA;0,30 kg       Wheat Malt, Bel (3,9 EBC)                 Grain        6,00 %        &#xA;&#xA;30,00 gm      Cascade [5,50 %]  (60 min)                Hops         21,5 IBU      &#xA;&#xA;5,00 gm       Fuggles [4,50 %]  (60 min)                Hops         2,9 IBU       &#xA;&#xA;15,00 gm      Fuggles [4,50 %]  (10 min)                Hops         3,2 IBU       &#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastActivityDate="2010-08-03T14:24:16.157" Title="Is it possible to make a lager without secondary fermentation?" Tags="|lager|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2416" CreationDate="2010-08-03T06:46:14.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes and no at the same time. You need to have full control of the temperature over both the fermentation and the lagering period. Since you have to rack to secondary when fermentation is almost done to start the lagering, you obviously can't do any work with one fermenter. &lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, owning a second fermenter, I believe there is no harm if you rack to your secondary, clean-sanitize your primary again, and directly rack to primary again and place it in your fridge, thus using your secondary just to clean the primary. If you are really careful over that period in order to have minimum contact with air, I don't think you'll have any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-08-03T06:46:14.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-03T10:29:43.010" Score="4" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a stout (my 2nd home brew) in a secondary fermentor (glass carboy).  Once it reaches FG, what are the advantages/disadvantages of leaving it in the secondary to condition vs bottling right away (or FG + x days)?  Obviously, the secondary buys me time to empty enough bottles but is there any impact to the beer (assuming it ages the same amount of time prior to consumption)?  If I wait too long will the bottles take too long to condition?  If I bottle too soon do I lose any benefits of the secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Mr D" LastActivityDate="2010-08-03T14:13:49.437" Title="Secondary or Bottles" Tags="|secondary|bottling|conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2418" CreationDate="2010-08-03T14:13:49.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaving it in the secondary will allow more sediment to settle out of the beer, but eventually this isn't going to matter too much.  After a while your returns will diminish indefinitely, and with a stout I wouldn't worry about it as it isn't supposed to be a nice clear beer.  If you wait a long time, like a matter months then the yeast will lose vitallity and it will take longer to carbonate in the bottle, but I wouldn't too much about a few weeks.  I would just bottle it when you are ready and enjoy emptying those bottles that the stout is going to be in.  In general, the secondary fermenter can hold a beer longer when you want it to clear up nicely, but with stouts and wheat beers especially, I just bottle when I'm ready and don't allow them to settle too much. I once got lazy and left a heffeweizen in the secondary for six months and it cleared up beautifully!  It was so clear and golden it looked fantastic, however, it looked nothing like the heff I was going for.  If you bottle your stout in the next couple of weeks I don't see any difference in the benefits of letting it sit in the secondary or the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-08-03T14:13:49.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2416" CreationDate="2010-08-03T14:24:16.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can, and I do, ferment and lager in the same vessel. No racking necessary.  My lagers come out crisp and tasty.  Control the temperature as you would for fermentation then lagering, but do not bother transferring between vessels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-08-03T14:24:16.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1769" CreationDate="2010-08-03T21:27:43.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anytime I add fruit, I put it in the secondary after primary fermentation so the yeast is gentler on the fruit leaving more of the fruit flavor behind.  I'll usually give the beer a week in the secondary before I add the fruit. Banana is a fantastic idea though, you guys have me excited.  I'm going to try this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-08-03T21:27:43.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1769" CreationDate="2010-08-05T12:10:22.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know why mashing them would add MORE banana flavor than using them in secondary.  You'll get more sugar by converting what little starches remain in the fruit (depending on ripeness).  But conversion of starch to sugar isn't related to how much banana flavor compounds are present in the fruit.  Just &quot;mash&quot; them with a fork and put them in secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-08-05T12:10:22.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2010-08-05T15:52:44.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got some label paper from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;midwest supplies&lt;/a&gt;, they have a word document that you can download and put your PDF into each slot, I think it's nine per sheet, and then print them out on the label paper, they're self adhesive and look really nice.  I would order them again if needed.  I never put them in a cooler though, I don't know how well they stay on in an ice bath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-08-05T15:52:44.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2425" CreationDate="2010-08-06T13:35:04.390" Score="3" ViewCount="675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an imperial stout in a corny keg, and I'm just not happy with how sweet it is. It's already been carbonated.  Can I let it go flat, rack it to a carboy, and throw in some high-gravity or champagne yeast to dry it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-08-06T13:54:01.307" Title="Can I ferment further once the beer is carbonated?" Tags="|carbonation|secondary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2424" CreationDate="2010-08-06T13:54:01.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why not.  The only issue is how much lactose or dextrin you used.  If it sweet due to those sugars, then you're kind of screwed because the high gravity or champagne yeast won't eat those, if it is not from these then you should be fine.  The only way to get rid of the lactose or the dextrin is to pitch some brettanomyces, pediococcus or lactobacillus, which would give you a farmyard or sour flavor depending on which one you use.  Who knows though, it might be delicious.  Guiness sours a portion of their stout and then mixes it back in to give it it's unique flavor.  I might even aerate the beer when transferring it to a carboy since it is going to referment anyway, this way the yeast will have a better environment to do their wonderful work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-08-06T13:54:01.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2429" CreationDate="2010-08-06T15:28:39.410" Score="3" ViewCount="5844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received a 5 gallon carboy that I want to use but it has some crud in the curve of the bottle. What's the best way to clean this off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T02:32:56.633" Title="How can I clean an old carboy?" Tags="|carboy|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2426" CreationDate="2010-08-06T15:55:03.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;PBW, hot water and if neccessary, a carboy brush.  They are made with wire similar to a coat hanger so you bend it in the middle of the bristles at a 90 degree angle and reach the bend that you talking about.  I would throw in the hot water and PBW and wait twenty minutes, the crud will most likely just flake off.  You can always rub it with the brush to be sure but this will definitely get that stuff off.  PBW is magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-08-06T15:55:03.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2426" CreationDate="2010-08-06T20:42:39.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used PBW and One Step to do this, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're both pretty expensive. You either need to make five gallons of solution or figure out a way to get the solution against the crud without filling the carboy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I'm cleaning a carboy, I'm almost always not doing anything else brewing-related, so I can't reuse the solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently fallen back on Charlie Papazian's trick of an overnight soak with a half-cup of bleach in 5 gallons of water.  I use warm water, but it's room temp by the next day, naturally.  I siphon off until the water level is just above the krausen ring, then go at it with a carboy brush. That way, the crud I remove is carried away by the water. Works brilliantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's dead cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-08-06T20:42:39.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2426" CreationDate="2010-08-06T22:29:35.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bar keepers friend is pretty cheap to use as a 5-6 gallon soak.  Just use a few tablespoons in warm water and fill up the carboy.  An overnight soak and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-08-06T22:29:35.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-07T14:40:05.027" Score="11" ViewCount="10818" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me, these 5 liter kegs seem like the perfect device for storage as well as remaining fresh when making beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p78o2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Krups BeerTender&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand there is a way to remove the top piece of the mini keg with some type of key?  Once removed, what do you clean them with? and then how do you re-pressurize the keg?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="gary" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:40:17.527" LastActivityDate="2020-02-22T01:44:02.840" Title="Re-use the mini kegs that are used in 'Krups Beer Tender' for home brewing?" Tags="|techniques|equipment|kegging|keg|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2433" CreationDate="2010-08-07T16:14:03.917" Score="2" ViewCount="16811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently at a beer festival and one of the breweries (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fultonbeer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fulton&lt;/a&gt;) had a delicious pale ale that had been infused with grapefruit. I asked the brewer how they did it and he told me that the night before when they kegged it, they quartered a bunch of grapefruits, scored the peels, and threw them in the a bag in the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 10 gallons of pale ale that I need to keg soon, and was thinking about doing this in one of the kegs but I don't want to destroy 5 gallons of perfectly decent beer. This is where I need your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this safe to do if the whole keg isn't going to be drank the next day?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any sanitization precautions I should take before just throwing a bunch of grapefruit into my keg?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many grapefruit do you think would do the trick without being overpowering?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this just a plain bad idea?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:40:59.723" LastActivityDate="2023-06-29T14:47:27.387" Title="Infusing a beer with grapefruit" Tags="|techniques|kegging|fruit|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2432" CreationDate="2010-08-09T02:31:51.847" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up adding some Simply Grapefruit juice from the store. I figured it would add the flavor I wanted without the risk of contamination because it is pasteurized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastActivityDate="2010-08-09T02:31:51.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2431" CreationDate="2010-08-09T17:52:07.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with those kegs, so I don't know if they have the ability to connect CO2 to them for forced pressurizing, which would be my first choice.  My next choice would be to fill them with a counter pressure bottle filler.  My last choice would be to treat them like a bottle and prime your beer with priming sugar, fill your keg and then put the top back on and wait for the yeast to carbonate your keg naturally, this will make cleaning the keg a little more labor intensive and there will now be sediment at the bottom of your keg from the natural carbonation proccess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would clean them with PBW or One Step, fill them with hot water and let them soak with the cleaner in them for an hour or so, give them a thourough rinse and then fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this helped, but I figured I would let you know what I would do since no one had responded yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-08-09T17:52:07.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2436" CreationDate="2010-08-10T22:42:44.787" Score="6" ViewCount="1040" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a high gravity (1080) saison and am planning on cold conditioning it in secondary at 32 degrees x 2 weeks, then bottle conditioning it.  I am wonder will the cold conditioning make all my yeast die?  Will I need to add more yeast when I bottle?  If so, how much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Sam Fisk" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T16:59:09.340" Title="cold conditioning saison then bottle conditioning" Tags="|cold|bottle|conditioning|yeast|viability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2435" CreationDate="2010-08-10T22:53:05.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd go with 33 or 34, something about that magic 32 that makes me nervous, I realize it shouldn't freeze with the alcohol that is now in there, but I think you'll be just fine with the yeast currently in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-08-10T22:53:05.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2435" CreationDate="2010-08-10T23:54:30.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know really why you'd cold condition a Saison.  If its to clarify it doesn't need to be that cold.  Just put it at 50F and you'll get just as effective a flocculation. Then you still have plenty of yeast to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better option would be to just bottle it, and store the bottles cold after they carb up.  Stuff will settle out in the bottle, and the sediment will be pretty firm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you really want to &quot;lager&quot; the beer, then its not really a big deal to add back about a third of a packet of a dry neutral American Ale yeast during bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course all that advice is dependent on WHICH saison yeast you used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="596" LastEditDate="2010-11-24T16:59:09.340" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T16:59:09.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-11T20:04:20.253" Score="5" ViewCount="1890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be brewing a pumpkin spiced beer friday and will not have the time to do an all grain. So partial mash it is. Any hints, tips or tricks would be appreciated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Original Gravity: 1.070 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Terminal Gravity: 1.017&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Color: 15.12 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Alcohol:6.9%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bitterness: 19.7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ingredients:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2.0 lb American 2-row&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.0 lb Munich Malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.0 lb Crystal 45&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.0 lb German CaraMunich II&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;7.0 lb Liquid Light Extract &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;.5 oz First Gold (7.5%) - added during&#xA;  boil, boiled 60.0 min &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;.5 oz First Gold (7.5%) - added during&#xA;  boil, boiled 15 min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2.0 lbs Farmers market pumpkin puree - added during boil, boiled at 15 min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.0 ea White Labs WLP005 British Ale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Second fermantation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 ounce Allspice 1 ounce Nutmeg 1&#xA;  ounce of freshly grated ginger 1 ounce&#xA;  freshly grated cinnamon 2 scraped&#xA;  fresh vanilla beans&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Soak all the spices in 3 ounces of rum&#xA;  for 24 hours before re-racking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4 lbs of cubed pumpkin/puree depending&#xA;  on availability (plus or minus a pound&#xA;  depending on taste test before&#xA;  re-racking)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T20:07:58.937" Title="Spiced Pumpkin recipe (Any hints, tips or tricks?)" Tags="|pumpkin|spiced|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2438" CreationDate="2010-08-11T21:17:48.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tip is to not use any pumpkin.  Simply focus on upping the midrange crystal malt (like 60L) to give it more sweetness.  Then spice the beer with pumpkin pie spices like your recipe already has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People think of pumpkin as being sweet (which it isn't, so adding pumpkin doesn't help) and they want spice.  So the added crystal give sweetness, and ups the residual body a little too.  That really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know of a couple commercial examples of &quot;pumpkin&quot; ale that doesn't use any pumpkin at all, its all spicing like a pumpkin pie would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides you don't really want to add pumpkin puree to an extract beer.  Its most starch and that will create haze and its unfermentable by most brewing yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also suggest a fruitier yeast that WLP005, try WLP002.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-08-11T21:17:48.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2064" CreationDate="2010-08-12T03:56:44.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe Charlie Papazians Home Brew Bible goes into some detail about what fruit and specific gravity equivalent.   Also a program like ProMash is excellent to determining potential gravity.  You can use it with all grain or extract.  Also if you are using something like Oregon Fruit purees you might be able to find out some nutritional info to determine the amount of sugar in a certain amount of fruit.  I know the Oregon fruit is very popular but I prefer to use fresh or frozen fruit, then pasteurize it and add it too secondary.  I am also a big fan of natural fruit juices.  The purees seem very messy to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Sam Fisk" LastActivityDate="2010-08-12T03:56:44.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2444" CreationDate="2010-08-12T14:29:08.047" Score="4" ViewCount="3394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a weird urge to make some sort of avocado beer for quite some time. I've heard rumors of some commerical styles that have incorporated the avocado, but have not been able to unearth either a recipe or any details. I was thinking the creamy flavor might pair well with a stout or other low-carbonated heavier style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea how much avocado I would have to use for 5G, or if the result would even approach drinkable. I am also worried about the natural oils in the avocado wreaking havoc with head retention and the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone here ever attempted, or heard of anyone attempting, such a feat? The fact that I can't find any recipes online means either it has been done before with horrid results, or no one wants to waste perfectly good beer finding out if this is a ridiculous idea or not :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking forward to seeing what everyone thinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T17:27:31.940" Title="Using avocado in beer?" Tags="|brewing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2438" CreationDate="2010-08-12T17:17:58.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't brewed one of these yet, but all the research I've done seems to indicate that the pumpkin is not necessary (I plan to do a side-by-side brew of the same recipe with and without actual pumpkin to see for sure). Heck, the canned pumpkin you buy in the stores often isn't even pumpkin, but squash! One point of advice is that canned pumpkin can lead to a crazy stuck mash - doesn't apply as much to your situation, but useful to note.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, let us know how it turns out. I would use a modest amount of spices at flameout, and taste the beer prior to kegging. Often, spice flavors can get &quot;scrubbed&quot; out during an active fermentation. If you find it needs more of a spice note, add some to the fermented beer prior to bottling or kegging. Also, if the spices seem too harsh (cinnamon can do that to ya), let it cold bulk condition for a while before packaging. The flavors should mellow in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing - in your recipe, you are adding spices directly to the secondary. I would make a tincture - meaning, soak the spices in some cheap vodka for a few days, then strain the spices out and add the vodka to the beer. This is a great way to add spices to beer without compromising sanitation and having to settle out a bunch of crap in your beer before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-08-12T17:17:58.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2385" CreationDate="2010-08-13T15:11:17.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you sanitized them and then covered the tops with foil/plastic wrap, I would feel pretty safe using them again. However, I always sanitize everything right before use - always! I use StarSan, and it takes literally seconds to spray or dunk my gear and have it sanitized and ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-08-13T15:11:17.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2441" CreationDate="2010-08-16T15:40:14.730" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you can boil the avocado, and skim the oil off of the top of the water,  I'm not sure of the pectin content in avocado, as this could give your beer a permanent haze, so I would recommend mixing some pectic enzyme in with your &quot;avocado extract&quot; when adding it to your secondary to help get rid of the pectin.  I found this article which seems to show how to remove oil from just about anything.  I hope this helps.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20061120183656/http://www.itdg.org/html/technical_enquiries/docs/oil_extraction.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://web.archive.org/web/20061120183656/http://www.itdg.org/html/technical_enquiries/docs/oil_extraction.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T18:47:41.920" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T18:47:41.920" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2010-08-17T10:55:37.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those where the controller must control both heating and cooling to maintain a set fermentation temperature, checkout the Fermentation Controller at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;www.users.on.net/~s.walker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="BrewControl" LastActivityDate="2010-08-17T10:55:37.627" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-17T10:55:37.627" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2447" CreationDate="2010-08-19T22:29:24.833" Score="7" ViewCount="1002" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just capped my first batch of beer (Wohoo!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I invested in my equipment though, I think I was a bit too frugal with my capping tool - I have a hammer on crown capper. It seems to have done the job (hard to tell at this stage if the seals are good, but they seem OK), but it was pretty hard work capping 64 x 330ml bottles with it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What recommendations can anyone out there in homebrewland make for a better capper (considering value for money) - 2 handled capper (mid-range cost)? Bench capper (high-end cost)... or should I just persevere with the hammer on capper (cheap-as-chips)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions appreciated...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;Perk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:48:29.657" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T04:14:29.570" Title="Best Crown Capper" Tags="|equipment|bottling|capping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2010-08-19T22:36:55.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2 handle capper is what i've been using for years.  It works just fine, I haven't had any problems with it.  It's very cheap and less annoying than the hammer on capper.  I will eventually move to the bench capper, but my brew equipment is taking up enough space as it is.  I would definitely recommend the jump to the 2 handle capper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-08-19T22:36:55.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2010-08-20T16:54:01.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally prefer the bench capper. It's a little more expensive, but I think it works better / faster / easier. I broke my first one recently, after using it for over 5 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-08-20T16:54:01.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2459" CreationDate="2010-08-20T20:23:18.007" Score="0" ViewCount="1649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a propane burner I recently purchased to do my boils.  It works great, however I  noticed some minor scorch marks in my stainless steel brew pot afterward.  I read somewhere that a copper or aluminum plate placed between the burner and the brew pot would help with this issue.  Any ideas where I can find such a plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was not able to find a copper or aluminum plate as other posters have suggested. However, I did find a Heat Diffuser at a local cooking supply store.  It's made of iron with a ceramic cover and measures 7 inches in diameter. Its made for simmering pasta sauces, but worked fine boiling wort. The scorch marks on my brew kettle were much smaller and easily removed after boiling a stout.  The draw back is the heat diffuser is meant for kitchen gas stoves, not outdoor propane burners.  When I vigorously stirred the pot, it would wobble a bit, but my pot never seemed to be in danger of tipping.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two issues with the heat diffuser. It has small rounded touch-points on the outside, and the diameter is only 7 inches, where as my brewpot is closer to 14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="573" LastEditorUserId="573" LastEditDate="2010-09-24T15:58:37.357" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T06:19:45.663" Title="Copper/Aluminum Plate for Propane Burner" Tags="|propane-burner|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2449" CreationDate="2010-08-20T22:20:53.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminum is cheaper and easier to find, copper is a better conducter of heat.  So I would probably go with aluminum and I would look at the Home Depot or Loews.  They should have some sheets there.  Then I would cut it to size and throw my pot on it the next time I brewed.  Worst case, you can only find five inch wide strips, I would cut the strip into the desired length and then lay them side by side on the burner to form a plate.  Good luck man.  Happy hunting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-08-20T22:20:53.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2452" CreationDate="2010-08-21T09:01:50.863" Score="2" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing all-grain and have in the past always held a glucan rast when mashing. I am trying to speed up my brewing process and that rest of course slows me down quite a bit because of the heating up afterwards. Has anyone had bad experiences without glucan rests? Do you think a glucan rest is necessary and if so with all malts or just with some (e.g. wheat)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-08-21T15:06:31.187" LastActivityDate="2010-08-21T15:06:31.187" Title="Glucan rest necessary" Tags="|mash|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2451" CreationDate="2010-08-21T15:06:06.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A beta glucan rest help convert starches made up of long strands of glucose molecules.  These are typically found in oats, wheat and rye.  If you have a low percentage of those malts you can skip the stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Try it out&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See if you can detect a change in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-08-21T15:06:06.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2455" CreationDate="2010-08-22T19:11:44.613" Score="4" ViewCount="8844" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm going to start making wine from grapes this year.  To that end, I just picked up a grape crusher and a press.  With those toys, I can also make cider.  There's an orchard near me that grows dozens of varieties of apples.  Which ones make the best cider?  I know, &quot;best&quot; is subjective but I'm sure there are some types of apples better than others.  Should I go &quot;straight varietal&quot; or should i use a blend of apples?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-08-23T12:42:33.527" Title="Which apples make the best cider?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2453" CreationDate="2010-08-23T12:42:33.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to blend at least three of your favorite eating apples together.  Find one that is known for producing a lot of juice.  Then chose two others that have interesting flavors. A buddy of mine pressed about 15 pounds of apples last year and got only got maybe a couple gallons of juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I have read and gleaned from talking with better cider makers than I; the english heirloom varieties are really the best apples for making hard cider from supposedly.  You can find some orchards here in the states with these types of apples.  There are apples that are grown more for eating out-of-hand, and then there are varieties that were actually bred for making cider from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if you look at cider recipes from winning ciders at the NHC.  Many of them are blended apple varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-08-23T12:42:33.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2457" CreationDate="2010-08-23T23:25:25.023" Score="3" ViewCount="1232" Body="&lt;p&gt;My latest brew is a Belgian White beer - a Hoegaarden stile beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the equipment to rack this beer so I intend to bottle it after about 3 weeks in the brew barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This style of beer is usually a little cloudy in the glass, but my dilemma is whether I should be using finings with this brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone with experience with this style of beer? Should I use finings or would this ruin it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastActivityDate="2010-08-24T13:16:56.570" Title="Should I use finings when brewing a White/Weiss/Wheat beer?" Tags="|weiss|wheat|belgian-white|finings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2456" CreationDate="2010-08-23T23:37:46.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not use finings, I like the cloudiness and believe it to be part of the style, I would not use anything to interfere with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-08-23T23:37:46.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2458" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2468" CreationDate="2010-08-23T23:56:20.463" Score="2" ViewCount="1313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make my first batch of lager beer, and I chose the vienna lager style. But I have never made a lager before, so I want some tips! Since I have just two fermenting buckets but only one fits in the refridgerator, I'm planning to make use of just the primary.&#xA;How much time do you recommend for fermentation (and what temps), and how much time for lagering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;Ingredients:&#xA;------------&#xA;Amount        Item                                      Type         % or IBU      &#xA;2,00 kg       Vienna Malt (6,9 EBC)                     Grain        37,74 %       &#xA;1,25 kg       Pilsner (2 Row) Bel (3,9 EBC)             Grain        23,58 %       &#xA;1,00 kg       Pale Malt (2 Row) Bel (5,9 EBC)           Grain        18,87 %       &#xA;0,75 kg       Munich Malt (17,7 EBC)                    Grain        14,15 %       &#xA;0,30 kg       Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (150,0 EBC)    Grain        5,66 %        &#xA;16,00 gm      Brewer's Gold [8,00 %]  (60 min)          Hops         16,3 IBU      &#xA;15,00 gm      Fuggles [4,50 %]  (10 min)                Hops         3,1 IBU       &#xA;15,00 gm      Cascade [5,50 %]  (10 min)                Hops         3,8 IBU       &#xA;2 Pkgs        Saflager W 34/70 (Fermentis)              Yeast-Lager    &#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-08-24T13:01:30.887" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T23:12:20.140" Title="Tips for my first Lager" Tags="|lager|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2449" CreationDate="2010-08-24T13:02:35.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try kitchen supply stores.  I bought a while ago at a Williams-Sonoma a disc that matched our cookware (and it was somewhat expensive), but I'm sure a lower-end cooking store would have a simple steel/copper/aluminum plate.  If your stove is gas, they work wonderfully in the kitchen as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-08-24T13:02:35.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2458" CreationDate="2010-08-24T13:13:21.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keeping your recipe exactly as it is I would remind you to rehydrate the yeast first, to give it the best shot at fermenting (adding an additional packet wouldn't be a bad idea either though, but I don't know your restrictions on cost so we'll leave it at that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal fermentation temp for this yeast is 12C.&#xA;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/FO/pdf/HB/EN/Saflager_W-3470_HB.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here for the spec sheet&lt;/a&gt; on this yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan to do the primary for at least 3 weeks.  But I prefer to go by gravity.  So be prepared to check it after three weeks to see where the gravity is.  Check it a couple times to be sure its done fermenting and at a stable gravity reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should plan a lagering phase for at least 4 weeks or longer.  Optimum lager temp here will vary but getting down to 2-4C would be a good start.  You should also rack the beer from your first bucket to a clean and sanitary second bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-08-24T13:13:21.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2456" CreationDate="2010-08-24T13:16:56.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding finings is a waste of effort with this style when brewed correctly.&#xA;It is possible to have too much residual haze stuff in the beer and it will be super cloudy, and maybe even chunky.  If your normal pale ales are cloudy, maybe finings are a good idea with this wiesse attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, some people actually add a little flour to the boil late to improve the cloudiness.  Your water chemistry may actually promote higher than average flocculation.  In that case, you may want to try the flour trick to help ensure proper cloudiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say let it ride with out finings now, but then you can always make adjustments with the knowledge above later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-08-24T13:16:56.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2463" CreationDate="2010-08-24T14:03:47.350" Score="5" ViewCount="2331" Body="&lt;p&gt;A related question was asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/352/preparing-fruit-for-secondary&quot;&gt;about fruit in general&lt;/a&gt; but it didn't answer a particular question I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 6 pounds of fresh cherries ready for a holiday beer. I'm planning on cleaning/sanitizing the cherries and then freezing them to break down the cell walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I also pit and puree the cherries, or freeze them whole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:11.077" LastActivityDate="2010-08-24T21:25:10.630" Title="Preparing Cherries for Secondary" Tags="|fruit|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2462" CreationDate="2010-08-24T14:21:26.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know most cherry wine recipes recommend pitting the cherries, it probably couldn't hurt to pit your cherries, but since you probably won't be pressing the fruit it's probably not as important as it is for wine. (When the pits get pressed they can contribute excess amounts of tannin.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother pureeing, freezing will break down the cell walls just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-08-24T14:21:26.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2462" CreationDate="2010-08-24T16:36:15.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made a Belgian strong ale with 7#s of cherries in it. I pitted all of them, and then froze them. After frozen I let them thaw. I sanitized my blender and blended them up a bit, and poured them into my secondary and racked the beer over it. At no point did I boil or use any type of sanitization process on the cherries themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the blending was necessary, but it was very easy to clean out the carboy after bottling. I didn't have to worry about a bunch of cherries getting stuck in the neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to avoid haze make sure you add Pectin Enzyme. Ideally you are supposed to add the enzyme to the blended cherries before adding to your beer, but I added later and it still seemed to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-08-24T16:36:15.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2467" CreationDate="2010-08-24T21:48:30.680" Score="1" ViewCount="2432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was enjoying some craft sodas with some friends wile brewing a saison recently, and the idea of a sarsaparilla beer occurred to me as a not terrible idea. My instinct is to go with a pale ale (or IPA?), but maybe a stout or porter would work well too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has this been done before?&#xA;When should I add the sarsaparilla (boil, post-boil, secondary, etc.), and in what form (extract, dried roots, etc.)?&#xA;Does it make sense to add the other ingredients typically included in sarsaparilla soda (like sassafras, licorice, and wintergreen)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="609" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T18:35:30.327" Title="Sarsaparilla beer?" Tags="|experiments|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1575" CreationDate="2010-08-26T06:45:27.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;setting a stirring bar in the wort should lower the hottest temperatures developing in the areas near the element by sweeping cooler wort to the coil.  This should eliminate carmelization.  Additionally it will quicken the heat up time since the coil will transfer heat faster to a cooler localazide wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="matthew" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T06:45:27.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2465" CreationDate="2010-08-26T11:15:07.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My take on this type of experiment is to leave yourself a good exit.  Make a great Porter or Pale ale on its own.  Then blend it with your favorite sarsaparilla soda to see if the flavor combo works for you.  That way you still have a decent beer to drink if its not so great.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to find sarsaparilla soda extract that you could add to different commercial styles of beer. That way you can figure out which base beer style may work best too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T11:15:07.207" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2458" CreationDate="2010-08-26T17:36:56.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be absolutely sure to pitch enough yeast. I assume you are aiming for 5 gallons into the fermentor. The yeast rate pitching calculator @ Mr. Malty -- &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&lt;/a&gt; -- GREAT resource, don't leave home without it) recommends almost four of the 5 gram packs, or almost two of the 11.5 gram packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you keg? Corny kegs make excellent bright tanks. Some people will dedicate a couple of kegs to conditioning/bright tanks and cut 1-2 inches off the diptube. This way, you can rack from primary to the bright corny, let it condition/lager, and then transfer it under pressure to a serving keg. The shortened dip tube will leave any yeast/sediment behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, you might consider getting rid of the pale malt and upping your vienna or pils - I've seen Vienna recipes of 100% vienna malt, as well as a mix of vienna/pils/light munich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a good article on the style: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/beer-styles/article/indices/11-beer-styles/1597-vienna-lager-in-exile&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.byo.com/stories/beer-styles/article/indices/11-beer-styles/1597-vienna-lager-in-exile&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T17:36:56.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-30T02:01:41.613" Score="1" ViewCount="2533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently discovered that my CO2 regulator is leaking out of the adjustment screw hole. I took out the 4 screws, removed the bonnet (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weekendbrewer.com/Checking_for_Co2_Leaks.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;as suggested here&lt;/a&gt;), and replaced it. The leak now seems to be less severe than it was, but it is still present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to fix this leak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T11:04:20.537" Title="How to fix CO2 regulator that leaks out of the adjustment screw hole?" Tags="|co2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1240" CreationDate="2010-08-30T15:36:46.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once picked up my glass secondary by the neck and the bottom of the carboy remained on the floor.  Fortunately this was in the garage and not in the house.  I still lost a 5 gallon batch of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="cliff e peery" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T15:36:46.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2473" CreationDate="2010-08-31T18:36:11.373" Score="2" ViewCount="897" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have a pound of milled barley malt. Let's say American 2-Row, for the sake of specificity.  And let's say I have a gallon of warm/hot water that I mix with the grain and let sit for some longish period of time before straining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much liquid will I have left over after straining?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T17:34:52.423" Title="How much strike water can I expect to lose to grain hydration?" Tags="|mash|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2472" CreationDate="2010-08-31T23:07:39.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on two factors.  The extent of your crush and the residual moisture in the malt.&#xA;The residual moisture can be found in the malt analysis sheet for the specific lot of grain you have.  Not always obtainable from the LHBS, because they don't really care about the stuff on a malt analysis sheet as much as a commercial brewer does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said ~10% absorption seems to be the average.&#xA;So I'd expect to recover, 0.9 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T23:07:39.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2470" CreationDate="2010-09-01T15:09:18.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;maybe try wrapping some teflon tape on the threads like you do with a natural gas line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T15:09:18.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2470" CreationDate="2010-09-02T11:04:20.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the regulator and a 12-pack of beer to a gas supply shop and see if someone there will look it over for you and fix it for beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T11:04:20.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2472" CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:25:32.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always calculate a cup of water per pound of grain. (Sorry metric users.)  Makes it easy to figure water loss - just divide the weight of your grain by 8 to get gallons lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2010-09-03T14:10:45.947" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T14:10:45.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2479" CreationDate="2010-09-03T17:52:45.667" Score="4" ViewCount="774" Body="&lt;p&gt;Five gallon batches generate a certain amount of trub in the fermenter.  However, its a relatively small percent of the total batch.  I am interested in trying some 2 gallon maybe even one gallon batch sizes for kicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if there is a batch size point at which the trub to beer ratio becomes to big to get a decent amount of beer from.  Obviously the trub amount will decrease as the batch size goes down, but is it really linear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone ever tried a one gallon batch (in an appropriately sized fermenter)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-09-05T16:17:26.550" Title="Small batch size brewing trub issues" Tags="|small-batch|trub|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2010-09-03T18:08:31.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using a fresh yeast is should be fine. If you're reusing yeast in the carboy and you're on your third cycle and you leave your beer in the primary on a huge 4 month old cow pie then you're certainly risking some off trooby flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="MerkGerves" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T18:08:31.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2477" CreationDate="2010-09-05T16:17:26.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do 2 gallon batches on occasion.  The brew-in-a-bag method is great for this, but you get &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of trub.  In this 1-gallon jug the dark band under the krausen ring is beer, the rest is suspended stuff.  After a few weeks it all settled and I got six bottles of nice looking (and tasting) beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh6.ggpht.com/_pnQEXd93GTw/S3wmo2UycgI/AAAAAAAAAtk/K1LnzHv3Ly4/IMG_3199.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;Trub&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.770" LastActivityDate="2010-09-05T16:17:26.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2483" CreationDate="2010-09-06T23:20:16.400" Score="6" ViewCount="10433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just opened the top of my scotch ale bucket, and it looks like there's mold inside. The recipe is pretty standard, plus some oak chips soaked in whiskey, in a muslin bag. What is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people have suggested it might be lacto/pedio contamination, which wouldn't be terrible. Does it look like that? The second picture is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is mold, is there any saving it? If it's souring, what's the best way to age it, and for how long?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OC4ZJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dQPtW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-01-04T13:07:00.730" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T13:07:00.730" Title="What is on top of my wort? Mold? Lacto?" Tags="|contamination|sour|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2481" CreationDate="2010-09-07T00:10:05.523" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah bro, it looks like lactobacillus, it's a little yellow though so maybe it mold.  Lacto usually looks white.  I have some lacto going on right now, let me get a picture for you.  Did you boil the chips first to sanitizes them, although the whiskey should have done the trick?  It's probably a little sour now, or a lot who knows until you taste it.  I'd age age it for a few months, maybe four to six and then re-pitch some good yeast for bottling if you plan on going the sour route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing harmful to humans can grow in beer so it is safe to drink.  I'd skim that stuff off if you don't age it and go ahead and bottle it.  Let us know how it is if you try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastEditorUserId="596" LastEditDate="2010-09-07T00:59:58.750" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T00:59:58.750" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2398" CreationDate="2010-09-07T16:00:23.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with using a bottling bucket as a secondary is that when the remaining yeast and whatever else is floating around in your beer settles, it will get churned up when you open the spigot on your bottling bucket.  It would be better to leave it in the primary than move it to the bottling bucket, because you are basically negating the whole purpose of using a secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="618" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T16:00:23.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2481" CreationDate="2010-09-08T01:02:02.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to say for sure what it is without seeing it under a microscope and plating it out. There could be multiple organisms creating the pellicle. It looks like some kind of wild yeast/Brettanomyces/LAB(souring bacteria). Best thing to do is try a little occasionally and see how the flavors develops as you age it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Chad" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T01:02:02.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1259" CreationDate="2010-09-09T02:10:33.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a great source of organic Nelson Sauvin hops here in the US:  7 Bridges in Santa Cruz-- breworganic.com -- has them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T02:10:33.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2426" CreationDate="2010-09-09T02:32:56.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try Proxiclean, it's something we use at the winery to clean tanks and fermenting bins.  It's basically a less gnarly form of caustic (PBW).  In a nutshell, it's a powdered version of that blue crap Billy Mayes used to push on TV infomercials-- an oxidizing cleaner.  But a proxy soak for 24 hours will basically put a shine on a turd.  I get it from the Vintner's Vault in Paso Robles.  They have a website...   lemme see...  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thevintnervault.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thevintnervault.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T02:32:56.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1710" CreationDate="2010-09-11T14:58:41.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently had a similar problem. I was trying to be cool and teach a friend how to Brew and got caught up doing more than usual and forgetting to add 3 lbs of DME at the end of the boil (10 mins). I had the Wort cooling, then my buddy asked if we had put all the hops in and then i remembered - we forgot to add the DME! I quickly added the extract and stirred like crazy until it looked dissolved. I didnt boil it. i realize that i made a mistake and hope this works out, but i am aware that i might have wasted a batch of beer, and looked stupid. I am going to check the gravity tomorrow to see how it is going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Gordon Marshall IV" LastActivityDate="2010-09-11T14:58:41.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-09-12T04:22:33.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to micromatic.com and look at their beer forum. If you truly want a great pour, kegerators are much more involved than most people think. Sure you can &quot;get it done&quot; without research, but you will have far less problems and far better beer by doing some homework on a site dedicated to kegerators. Most manufactured kegerators have a lot of problems from the factory, and are designed for use at sea level. The best option is to build it yourself. I think the best would be an upright freezer with an external thermostat and a faucet drilled through the door. Although, I currently have a 21.5 cubic foot refrigerator conversion that works great. Chest freezers work as well, and may be cheaper than upright ones, but you have to lift the keg all the way up and in, instead of just opening a door and putting it in; Could be a huge difference if you are using a 1/2 barrel keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do it twice as good for half the price if you do some research and build it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Pumper" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2011-11-09T01:57:09.183" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T01:57:09.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2497" CreationDate="2010-09-12T15:37:58.683" Score="2" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;my Vienna Lager apparently finished fermentation, I took some beer to measure the FG and I perceived a strong rotten eggs aroma coming from beer, I know it's common with some yeasts. The question I have is: is it ok to start cold condition (lagering)? Or I should keep fermenter around 13C for some days to get off the rotten eggs aroma?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T19:55:02.840" Title="Rotten eggs aroma from fermenting beer" Tags="|aroma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2472" CreationDate="2010-09-12T17:34:52.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always calculate 1 L of water to 1 Kg of grain, and is pretty acurate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T17:34:52.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2499" CreationDate="2010-09-13T17:40:19.900" Score="4" ViewCount="2249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've was introduced to barleywine this past weekend, and I was interested.  So I start googling, and find that Northern Brewer has a kit that comes with carbonation.  The barleywine I had was uncarbonated.  Most of the recipes that I googled didn't say one way or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should barleywine be carbonated, or should I bottle it still?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T21:20:26.283" Title="Should barleywine be carbonated?" Tags="|barleywine|carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2490" CreationDate="2010-09-13T18:07:48.293" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a hydrogen sulfide problem, aerate the beer by splash racking it to another container and wait a few hours, if the smell persists try again. If you've done this four times and it still smells I'd dump it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T18:07:48.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2493" CreationDate="2010-09-13T18:34:37.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had a barley wine that was not carbonated. But at the same time if you prefer it uncarbonated, don't carbonate it then. This seems more like a question to be left to personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T18:34:37.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2493" CreationDate="2010-09-13T19:51:39.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it should be carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T19:51:39.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2490" CreationDate="2010-09-13T19:55:02.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many lager yeasts throw off sulphur compounds during the ferment.  The key is to be patient and not rush the fermentation process.  If you have fermented at the right temp with the right amount of yeast, patience will reward you and the yeast will clean itself up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is also why there is an extended layering phase when using a lager yeast.  Its not just about cold crashing the beer.  Its about letting the lager yeast condition the beer and clean up all those off flavor compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So be sure you've let fermentation go at 11-13C for a good couple weeks, maybe even three.  Then go ahead with your planned cold layering phase and let that beer go for at least a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T19:55:02.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2114" CreationDate="2010-09-13T20:59:47.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The purpose of degassing in wine or mead is to benefit the yeast. CO2 is toxic to yeast and inhibits the yeast's ability to fully ferment the larger amount of sugars in wine/mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Degassing mead is highly recommended during primary fermentation to help the yeast, even if you plan on making a sparkling mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious about whether beer would benefit from degassing, though I suspect that yeast can handle the levels of sugar typically found in beer without needing to have CO2 removed from beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T20:59:47.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2493" CreationDate="2010-09-13T21:20:26.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the BJCP, both English and American styles of barleywine should have low to moderate levels of carbonation, depending on age and conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style19.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP Category 19&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it's your beer, drink it you would like, but that's what the style guide says and most if not all commercial examples of barleywine are carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T21:20:26.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2168" CreationDate="2010-09-14T00:03:45.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe there is a definitive answer to this question. My personal view would be that braggot is a mead made with malt, and not a beer made with honey. I'd say a mead is a fermented beverage with more than 50% of its sugars from honey, thus your brew would not fit the bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meadfest.org/mcic_entry_guidelines.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mazer Cup mead competition&lt;/a&gt; defines braggot as &quot;Honeywine made with malt, must be fermented from at least 20% honey&quot; so by that definition you are making braggot. I think that's the closest thing we have to an authoritative answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T00:03:45.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2501" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2502" CreationDate="2010-09-15T00:29:31.947" Score="5" ViewCount="3026" Body="&lt;p&gt;last Saturday (11/09/2010) I brewed a Blonde Ale and pitched US-05 yeast. Today there are only few bubles in airlock, so I think since Blonde Ale is a simple style I could bottle in next Sunday (19/09/2010).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all beers I've made I always rack to secondary and keep for 4 to 6 weeks before bottling, this time I don't have a secondary bucket to use e don't want to wait too many time in the primary, so my question is: what kind of &quot;problems&quot; can I have with this 1 week primary then bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T16:19:06.127" Title="What &quot;problems&quot; can I have if I bottle just one week fermented beer?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2501" CreationDate="2010-09-15T03:45:27.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to make sure that fermentation is actually complete before bottling or else you may end up with dangerously overcarbonated bottles that have the potential to explode. Airlock bubbling is not a reliable way to measure this. Take a hydrometer reading on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday and if they are steady (and in your expected range for final gravity) then you can bottle without worrying that fermentation is not complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, your beer will probably benefit from more time in the fermenter, allowing the yeast to condition the beer. Taste-wise, you may experience diacetyl, higher alcohols, and general &quot;green&quot; beer flavors because the yeast have not had time to clean up these compounds. This could be mitigated by bottle conditioning, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your concern is leaving the beer in the primary too long, don't worry about that. Beer can sit in primary for quite a long time (even a few months) with no detectable off flavors (given proper sanitation and absence of oxygen, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T03:45:27.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2507" CreationDate="2010-09-15T16:54:58.123" Score="11" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing ales for almost two years (extract plus specialty grains), and I want to try my hands at making a mead. What should I expect to be different in the brewing process? Will there be a violent initial fermentation? Is it more sensitive to temperature changes? Is the honey more likely to burn to the bottom of my brew pot than malt is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="609" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T03:22:45.267" Title="What to expect when making mead?" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2503" CreationDate="2010-09-15T18:39:50.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIK you don't really need to brew/boil the honey, just dissolve it in warm water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably want to add some yeast nutrient to your must since there aren't a whole lot of minerals and other things yeasties like to eat (other than sugar) in the must to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will probably be a somewhat violent initial fermentation, though maybe not as violent as beer ferments, I wouldn't worry if you don't see one, as long as it is fermenting you're fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T18:39:50.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2506" CreationDate="2010-09-15T22:39:03.780" Score="8" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing all-grain batches for some time.  With my water source, I'm generally getting good results across multiple styles.  To date, I haven't done much with water chemistry.  Which styles of beer will customizing my water chemistry make the most (positive) difference ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T12:33:07.733" Title="What styles should encourage me to learn water chemistry" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2505" CreationDate="2010-09-16T01:08:10.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question is very much dependent on the water chemistry of the water you are using now. If you have alkaline water you will find that you'll have the most success with beers using roasted malts because the acidity in the malt will bring down the mash pH to the correct level (5.2-5.4). Lighter beers will be harder to brew due to your mash pH being too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have soft water you'll be able to brew most styles successfully if you have adequate calcium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't already, the first step is to order the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wardlab.com/FeeSchedule/WaterAnalysis.aspx&quot;&gt;W-6 test from Ward Labs&lt;/a&gt; to determine the properties of your brewing water. If you have the results already then I can amend this answer to address your water more specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of information out there about matching color to residual alkalinity, but you can disregard that because it oversimplifies water chemistry to the point that it is not worth paying attention to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T01:08:10.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2503" CreationDate="2010-09-16T01:20:25.330" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best resource for mead making is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381802&quot;&gt;Ken Schramm's book The Compleat Meadmaker&lt;/a&gt;. It covers almost all you need to know about mead and is an excellent book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There current state of the art in mead builds on the information there and can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/4795/Mead_Maker_of_the_Year_Panel.pdf&quot;&gt;this pdf condensing the info from the Meadmaker of the Year panel at the National Homebrewers Conference&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main points are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;honey does not need to be boiled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nutrients need to be added at multiple times during fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;degassing during fermentation helps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;patience is a virtue as aging can be six months to many years&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastEditorUserId="440" LastEditDate="2010-09-16T13:39:24.333" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T13:39:24.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2505" CreationDate="2010-09-16T12:33:07.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First ask yourself of all your beers which ones are your very very best.  And be honest with yourself.  Using known award winning recipes make something light (pilsner or kolsch), something amberish (Red Ales, Pale ales) and something dark (porter or stout).  Submit these beers to a couple competitions.  See which ones do the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While doing that, get your water source tested from Warb Labs.  Then figure out what conventional wisdom about water chemistry says about your beer style options.  Refer to &quot;How to Brew&quot; in this regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be fortunate enough to live in an area where the water is somewhere in the middle and you don't need to do much to make great beer. That is sort of my boat.  But I am curious to see if I make one of my best beers and try to make it with &quot;appropriate&quot; water profiles to see if it really makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tough tasks where results don't come overnight.  But if you are serious about making really great beer...maybe these are the answers or the road to that success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T12:33:07.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-21T04:37:57.843" Score="6" ViewCount="2747" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2039/what-is-the-best-brewing-log-sheet-to-use&quot;&gt;What is the best brewing log sheet to use?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things I'm guilty of being terrible at is note taking. I know I should keep track of temperatures, times, tastes, and a bunch of other stuff. But I'm bad at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the most important things to keep track of? Do you have a template?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T06:56:36.417" Title="Brew day notes template" Tags="|consistency|process|techniques|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-02-10T15:58:48.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2517" CreationDate="2010-09-21T13:06:32.340" Score="13" ViewCount="1371" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that there are varying opinions about the size your starter should be.  What is the basic rule-of-thumb for 5 and 10 gallon batches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much water should be used?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much malt/malt extract should be used?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much time should the starter have to develop, and does this vary depending on the method (coke bottle with the occasional shake vs. stir plate)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What characteristics can too much/too little yeast yield?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are these amounts different for dry yeast, smack packs, and vials?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:09:10.563" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:09:10.563" Title="Making a Yeast Starter" Tags="|beer|yeast|cider|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2513" CreationDate="2010-09-22T00:06:11.207" Score="4" ViewCount="4530" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I wanted to make an ale which has some of the banana characteristics of a Belgian yeast, but also wanted some of the citrusy flavors of an American ale yeast. Could I achieve this by making a starter which is half Belgian yeast and half American yeast (or maybe some other ratio)? What results should I expect from introducing two (or more!) strains of yeast in the same batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="609" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:09:41.077" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T18:07:55.853" Title="Is Mixing Yeast OK?" Tags="|yeast|techniques|experiments|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2509" CreationDate="2010-09-22T12:22:28.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically what I do is write on the package what I need to do with it.  For example, I'll put on 1 can &quot;60&quot; in a big black magic marker, and then the hops gets another &quot;60&quot; as well.  Then I write on the other can &quot;15&quot; since I'll add that at with 15 minutes left of the boil and mark any other hops/additives accordingly.  The other thing I do is lay out my ingredients in the order they will be used.  60 minute additions right next to the brewpot, the flame-out hops farthest from the brewpot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically I have a piece of scratch note paper that I record the OG, FG, and ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again after computer programming for a whole week, I embrace the &quot;aah, good enough&quot; method of record keeping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T12:22:28.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2511" CreationDate="2010-09-22T15:51:53.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know of any American Ale yeasts that provide citrusy flavors.  Its all hop derived.&#xA;American Ale yeast is very neutral in flavor.  So yes you can mix them, but the only fermentation character you will really detect will be from the belgian strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done some interesting blending of English Ale yeast and American Ale yeast in the past.  The flavor was all English in character, just mildly subdued.  I used two yeast strains I was very very familiar with so I can say subdued with confidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the reason why I blended them wasn't for flavor it was for flocculation.  I was wondering if the super flocculant nature of the the English yeast would help to pull down the American strain (which normally takes much longer and cooler temps to flocc well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes indeed all the yeast flocculated out quite nicely.  It wasn't 100% like the English would be alone, but man it was really improved over American alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strains I used were WLP001 from WhiteLabs and S-04 from Fermentis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with the experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T15:51:53.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2438" CreationDate="2010-09-22T19:13:06.417" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im kind of new to home brewing and I really want to brew this pumpkin beer.  Can you give me the exact directions on the boils and when to add the ingredients and what temp should I try to ferment this beer at?  Should I do a secondary fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Nate" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T19:13:06.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-22T19:16:30.160" Score="2" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at your pumpkin beer recipe and I really want to brew that beer soon.  The recipe sounds great, I just want to know the exact boil times and what exact time to add the ingredients, spices etc.  I am new to this homebrewing.  Can you help out with this recipe?  Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Nate" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:26:07.887" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:26:07.887" Title="Pumpkin Spiced beer" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1087" CreationDate="2010-09-22T20:02:22.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a serious home brewer and use dry yeasts all the time. IMO, any bias against them is based on superstition and nothing else. See my posting about it here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://koehlerbeer.com/2008/05/23/dry-yeast-v-liquid-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Koehler Bbeer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Luber" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T20:25:38.663" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T20:25:38.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2510" CreationDate="2010-09-22T20:49:05.633" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your starter size will vary with the cell count you are shooting for, which in turn will be determined by the original gravity of the wort, batch size, and whether it is an ale or a lager. Use Jamil Zainasheff's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot;&gt;pitching rate calculator&lt;/a&gt; to determine how much yeast to pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an easy to remember rule of thumb, use 10 grams of dry malt extract for every 100ml of water. This will give you a roughly 1.040 starter, which is good for growing yeast even if your wort will be higher or lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starters made from healthy yeast packages will be ready to use in 12-18 hours, just pitch the starter or build it up again with more DME+water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a stir plate will pull more oxygen into the starter, which will give you more yeast reproduction and get you to a higher cell count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too little yeast can lead to longer fermentation times, under-attenuation, and off-flavors from stressed yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquid yeasts (vial or smackpack) can be treated the same, and dry yeast does not require making a starter (just use the correct amount. It's cheaper and easier to buy more dry yeast than to build it up with a starter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a typical 5 gallon batch of ale, you would be looking to make a 1 liter starter from a vial/package of liquid yeast. Double that for a lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T20:49:05.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-23T14:57:47.047" Score="3" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done any experiments trying to capture wild yeasts around their home/property and ferment with them? Any tips, methods, ideas, etc. would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-09-23T17:01:14.223" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T02:49:29.217" Title="Capturing wild yeasts?" Tags="|yeast-cultures|yeast|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2524" CreationDate="2010-09-23T17:47:05.487" Score="4" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning a Bavarian Hefeweizen and I read, to keep it real, one should use wort (&quot;speise&quot;) to carbonate it. Has anyone got some experience as to how much speise to use or how to calculate an adequate amount?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastActivityDate="2010-09-24T15:10:56.673" Title="How much &quot;speise&quot; in a Hefeweizen?" Tags="|wheat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1330" CreationDate="2010-09-23T20:10:54.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 750 sq. ft. loft which has no storage aside from a bedroom closet. I got two &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/Storage-Organization-Garage-Storage-Freestanding-Shelving-Units/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhcZb9pd/R-100655499/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&amp;amp;storeId=10051&amp;amp;catalogId=10053&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;commercial shelving units&lt;/a&gt; from Home Depot, and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.target.com/Art-Storage-Leaning-Bike-Rack/dp/B000ACAM38/ref=br_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;id=Art%20Storage%20Leaning%20Bike%20Rack&amp;amp;node=201561011&amp;amp;searchSize=30&amp;amp;searchView=list&amp;amp;searchPage=1&amp;amp;sr=1-10&amp;amp;qid=1285272069&amp;amp;rh=&amp;amp;searchBinNameList=subjectbin,price,target_com_primary_color-bin,target_com_size-bin,target_com_brand-bin&amp;amp;searchRank=salesrank&amp;amp;frombrowse=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;leaning bike rack&lt;/a&gt; from Target. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike rack holds my bike and my girlfriend's bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shelving units are enough to hold my two five gallon carboys, primary fermenting bucket, brew pot, a ton of empty beer bottles, bottled beer, all of the miscellaneous brewing equipment (hydrometer, bottle capper etc.), a healthy supply of DME and specialty grains, board games, tools, and a bunch of other things. I got a few hooks to hang brushes and spoons on the side of the shelving units. The shelving units are positioned in an L so that one unit is jutting out into the open space. In effect, this creates a small &quot;room&quot; in my loft which I refer to as my garage. When I get an extra fridge, it will go in this area as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="609" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T20:10:54.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2519" CreationDate="2010-09-23T21:08:01.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how much to use but here's how I would go about figuring it out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally use corn sugar to carbonate, I believe (going off the top of my head right now) it's something like 1 cup of sugar added to 3/4 cup water and boiled to sanitize/dissolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd mix the sugar and water together and take a hydrometer reading and then mix up some wort with the same gravity and then mix the same volume (as the sugar water) of that wort into your beer to prime for carbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's probably a way to use math to figure out how what the gravity of the sugar water would be and to figure how much DME to use to reproduce it that reading but I'm not that technical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T21:08:01.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2519" CreationDate="2010-09-23T22:43:16.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this link to Kai Troester's wikisite:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.phptitle=Accurately_Calculating_Sugar_Additions_for_Carbonation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sugar for Carbonation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't just post an answer because its dependent upon the temperature of the fermented beer (residual CO2) and the gravity of the speise. I also don't know to what volume of CO2 you want to make the resultant beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T22:43:16.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2518" CreationDate="2010-09-23T22:45:08.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think its largely trial and error of leaving an open fermentor around for a day, then close it up and seeing what you get.&#xA;Not sure if the &quot;coolness&quot; factor of saying you did it would outweigh the cost of burning through enough worts to get one batch right.... then you'd probably spend just as much time trying to repeat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T22:45:08.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2519" CreationDate="2010-09-24T15:10:56.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A brewer friend of mine does this regularly.  I quizzed him about it and he advises pulling 2-3 quarts out of your original 5 gallon batch, into a sanitized jar that sits in the fridge while fermentation takes place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do this right out of the boil kettle, and into a pre-heated glass jar.  Top it, let it cool on the counter, and put it in the fridge while fermentation takes place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-09-24T15:10:56.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2010-09-25T15:28:23.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than buying expensive sticker labels, a great (and surprising) trick you can use to adhere paper labels is to just put a little bit of milk on them. Get them slightly wet and stick them on, and as the milk dries it will stick to the bottle (it won't turn sour and start to smell). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="PunkyBrewster" LastActivityDate="2010-09-25T15:28:23.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2658" CreationDate="2010-09-26T15:04:01.077" Score="8" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/component/resource/article/970-kraeusening-techniques&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; on krausening, I began to wonder about using it to speed up the production of big beers.  The article states that introducing fresh, active yeast will &quot;clean up&quot; the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with adding actively fermenting beer to post-primary beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T11:07:52.577" Title="Does krausening make for faster conditioning?" Tags="|secondary|conditioning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2509" CreationDate="2010-09-27T20:06:28.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use BeerSmith software.  I put together the recipe, print out the brew sheet.  I'll make notes on the sheet as I'm brewing if I need to and then add them back to the recipe after I brew.  It's the lazy way to organize a recipe and get detailed step by step instructions and I can print off as many copies as I want which comes in handy for people asking for my recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-09-27T20:06:28.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-27T21:32:58.997" Score="2" ViewCount="1241" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used these bottles and recaped them with home brew? Not sure if they use twist off caps or the regular pry-offs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Karen" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-09-28T11:53:15.950" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T13:30:17.933" Title="Heinken bottles." Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2528" CreationDate="2010-09-28T00:02:46.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heineken bottles use pry-off caps and can be reused for homebrew. However, you're better off using brown glass bottles than the green Heineken bottles due to the better protection from light afforded by the brown glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2010-09-28T00:02:46.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2528" CreationDate="2010-09-28T03:59:45.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, I've used these - they work fine. They're pry off caps as already mentioned, but they have two problems (i) the labels are clear vinyl (at least they are here in New Zealand), and so can be difficult to peel off (you can't soak them off like paper labels); and (ii) they have the Heineken logo stamped on the bottle - kinda hard to get rid of!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend brown bottles if you can find them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastActivityDate="2010-09-28T03:59:45.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2528" CreationDate="2010-09-28T11:54:19.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use them.  Just keep them in the dark post bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your style capper they might be a little tough to cap.  I remember that when I used to use a couple during a bottling session in the distant past.  I would try capping a couple empties before I bought a case of heineken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-10-04T13:30:17.933" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T13:30:17.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2509" CreationDate="2010-09-28T12:02:46.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use BeerSmith for the recipe and the number calcs, but I have a template to write down key #s as I brew.  Both the BeerSmith sheet and my template sheet with notes goes in a binder with sheet protectors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I track factors around my mash: Strike volume, strike temp, resultant temp, did I add more water, the temp of extra water, temp post mash.  I batch sparge so I like to monitor the gravity and volume of the first runnings, then again for the second runnings.  I calculate the water lost to absorption.  I record starting kettle volume and gravity.  calculate efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post boil I record the final volume and the gravity.  I calculate the boil off rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[I also try and capture the daily temp and a rough estimate about humidity (high, med, low). This stuff is important to figuring boil off rate and strike temps season to season.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can be as anal as you want or as lax as you want.  It really doesn't matter.  But if you want to be focused on consisitancy and repeatability in the same recipe time after time you brew it, great notes are the only thing that's going to get you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a brew that has never brewed the same recipe more than once in a year (which is most brewers probably) then notes aren't all that valuable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-09-28T12:02:46.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2539" CreationDate="2010-09-28T16:57:55.037" Score="5" ViewCount="1086" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make a few spiced ales from my batch that's bubbling along right now, and I'm wondering what the benefits and drawbacks are to adding whole spices to the secondary as opposed to making a spice extract with vodka or bourbon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of things like cinnamon sticks, nutmeg shavings, peppercorns, orange zest, and vanilla bean.  Are certain spices better when added certain ways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorDisplayName="Husky Homebrew" LastEditDate="2010-09-28T18:00:37.510" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T14:13:17.857" Title="How to add spices after the boil" Tags="|spiced|adjuncts|additives|late-addition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2010-09-28T20:31:41.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just go to kinkos or some place like that and print them on a color laser printer, cut them out and stick them on with milk. I've done this with a number of labels for beer and wine. They look pretty darn professional and they don't run if they get wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-09-28T20:31:41.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2533" CreationDate="2010-09-29T16:41:10.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully you get some advice by the weekened.  I'm planning on brewing a Christmas spiced ale and was wondering myself.  I've researched a few sites and some say add spices in the last 5-10 mins of the boil, some say steep for 30 mins after the boil before cooling, and others still suggest soaking in a spirit for 24 hrs and add to the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Trogdor" LastActivityDate="2010-09-29T16:41:10.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2536" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-30T02:35:26.907" Score="3" ViewCount="940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put my lager in the primary fermenter roughly 30 days ago.  The original gravity was around 1.060 and 5 days ago when I took a reading it was at about 1.013.  Today it's at 1.012 - so it doesn't seem to be moving much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it's supposed to get down farther?  I do not have a good lagering vessel (it is fermenting in plastic), so I was planning on priming and bottling it after primary fermentation and then lagering it in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's probably ready to go (tastes great), but I'm worried that one of two things will happen - either it's not done and it will overcarbonate, or enough of the yeast have died that it won't carbonate at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Paul" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T20:56:26.770" Title="Is my lager done fermenting? More yeast?" Tags="|bottling|lager|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2515" CreationDate="2010-09-30T13:57:32.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like it is a 60 minute boil, so throw a half ounce of hops in as soon as it starts boiling.  After 45 minutes, throw in another half ounce of hops and the pumpkin, wait 15 minutes to make 60 minutes total boil, turn off heat and chill to fermentation temperature.  Pitch your yeast and let it sit in the primary for 5-7 days.  24 hours before you are going to transfer the beer to secondary, soak the spices in rum.  When you transfer the beer, pour the spices and rum through a coffee filter and add the filtered liquid to the beer.  Let it sit another 6 or 7 days and bottle or keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastEditorUserId="596" LastEditDate="2010-10-15T20:39:48.850" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T20:39:48.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2533" CreationDate="2010-09-30T14:13:17.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to take a crack at this since no has answered you yet.  The benefits of soaking the spices in vodka or bourbon has to do with the specific gravity of the liquid.  Vodka and bourbon are thinner than your beer, they contain a much higher percentage of alcohol.  This makes the spices more permeable to the liquor that you are soaking them in.  This will allow the vodka or bourbon to draw out more of the spices and flavor.  The beer is thicker and therefore can't permeate the spices as well and won't draw out as much flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for which spices are better for adding to the beer or to liquor, I would have to say it deals with surface area.  Orange zest is grated into fine particles and provides a lot of surface area so the spice is completely consumed by the beer or alcohol so I don't think there will be much of a difference in how you add it.  Cinnamon sticks and vanilla beans are dense and only the very outer layer will be in contact with your beer so that is the only part of the spice you will extract flavor from so it will be minimal.  Vodka is a very thin liquid so it soak into the sticks or beans and pull out more flavor than the thicker beer.  I would soak cinnamon sticks, peppercorns and vanilla beans in vodka, whereas I wouldn't hesitate to throw the orange zest straight into the beer if it were grated fine enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.  I feel unqualified to answer this question but I figured you'd rather have some answer rather than no answer at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T14:13:17.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2536" CreationDate="2010-09-30T20:13:26.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To combat over-carbonating I would just bring the temperature up a bit (if you can) and let the gravity readings stabilize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for bottle lagering, I just brewed a Vienna lager this past spring that was left in the fermenter for about 4 weeks.  After that I bottled it (without re-pitching any yeast), gave it about 2 weeks to carbonate at around 55 degrees, then packed half of the bottles onto the lower shelf of my fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer definitely cleared up and tasted better the longer I kept it in the fridge (I ran out at about the 2 month mark).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make sure this wasn't just the aging process, I tasted these bottle-lagered beers against the ones that were just left in my 55 degree basement and there was a huge difference in clarity, as well as a slight difference in taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lagering these basement bottles in my fridge for about a month did end up clearing them up a bit, but from what I recall they never got quite as clear as the half-batch that was immediately put in the fridge, although they did end up tasting just as good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my only experience with bottle-lagering, but it seemed to work out ok.  I did a beer swap with a few of my co-workers and they were amazed with how clear the beer was and how clean it tasted, and no, I'm not their boss ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-11-08T20:56:26.770" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T20:56:26.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2547" CreationDate="2010-10-02T16:08:22.270" Score="7" ViewCount="4388" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following inspiration from &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2477/small-batch-size-brewing-trub-issues&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, I've set myself up with equipment to brew one gallon batches. The idea is to brew small batches to get a solid recipe down, then scale up to a larger batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, a 5 gallon recipe calls for 1 tsp of Irish moss (according to package directions). If I scale linearly to my one gallon batch, that's 0.20 tsp of Irish moss. I don't think I can be that precise with my measurements. If I err and use too much (0.25 tsp, for example, 25% more than what is called for!) what will be the side effects? Will my beer be &quot;too mossy&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="609" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T12:01:50.893" Title="Too much Irish moss?" Tags="|irish-moss|experiments|small-batch|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2543" CreationDate="2010-10-02T17:33:47.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  The purpose of Irish Moss is to remove particulate matter from your beer.  I wouldn't bother trying to use a precise amount.  Use half of what you would normally use and call it good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Irish Moss does is gelatinize and the gelatin captures small particles to help clear the beer during the cooling phase.  It doesn't and shouldn't taste or smell like anything.  Whirlfloc does the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T17:33:47.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2543" CreationDate="2010-10-02T18:22:36.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are totally fine.  Like TinCoyote said, the moss is ionically charged particulate that attracts oppositely charged particulates (protein in this case) and makes them heavier so that they fall from suspension together.  It will settle and when you rack it off the trub you will be in great shape.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Mike" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T18:22:36.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2543" CreationDate="2010-10-04T13:25:37.747" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't even bother with Irish moss for a small batch size.  If you are using a one gallon fermentor you should be able to find space for it in the fridge when its done. Cold crashing for a week or so would be more effective than irish moss anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T13:25:37.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-04T14:39:34.983" Score="3" ViewCount="495" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being brewing for years, but will be doing my first all grain batch this weekend. What is the one thing that is key for me to follow/watch/do to insure a good batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="threefrenchs" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-12-31T15:03:58.063" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T15:03:58.063" Title="Doing my first all grain batch this weekend. What are the key issues for me to follow/watch/do?" Tags="|all-grain|first-time|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2548" CreationDate="2010-10-04T14:43:29.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, temperature of the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, gravity. This will help you determine a lot of things, like if you need to boil down / add water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T14:43:29.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2548" CreationDate="2010-10-04T14:50:24.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep a steady eye on your temperature throughout your mash.  Raise the mash temp to 168 before sparging with 168 degree water.  Do a nice slow sparge, and start it by vorlaufing (cycling the water through the grain bed) before sparging.  I'm sure there are a few other things to watch like your water water to grain ratio, I use 1.25 qts/lb usually, but I just posted the things I messed up on my first all grain batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have somebody check your grain crush too.  This will have a lot to do with your extraction rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My post is also assuming that you know if you are going to do a protein rest and a temperature that you want to mash at, depending on the body or mouthfeel that you want.  I actually just listened to an old Brew Strong podcast from the Brewing Network that was very informative.  You can look it up on there website or in Itunes.  I believe it was just titled Mashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T14:50:24.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2548" CreationDate="2010-10-04T15:49:07.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ditto what PJ and dzachareas said about the mash temps, recirculating, and sparging slowly.  Probably the most important aspects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'd add that if you haven't already been using them, irish moss/whirfloc and a wort chiller are essential if you don't want to get chill haze.  Need to have a good solid (fast) cold break at the end of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T15:49:07.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2554" CreationDate="2010-10-05T01:19:11.303" Score="4" ViewCount="678" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, let's see if I can keep this question brief--I have a lot of followup questions that go with this so it may be difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background:  Last year I decided to start doing an annual Birthday Brew Day Barleywine, wherein I'll brew a barleywine each year on my birthday and age it for years to come (for as long as I can keep them in stock...we'll see how long it goes).  Last years finished off at 10.1% abv, while this years batch is at 9.7 % or so (currently in the secondary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Context:  I HATE BOTTLING!!!  No, seriously, I really f$#%ing hate it!!! So, I keg all of my brews, and occasionally fill bottles from the keg using a technique that prevents oxidation and preserves proper carbonation levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More Context:  Conventional wisdom says that for a beer to be truly &quot;cellar-worthy&quot;, it must be unfiltered and bottle-conditioned so that the living yeast can continue to develop flavors in the beer as the years go by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I keg the beer, and later bottle just under half of the batch off of the keg, will the beer condition and mature in the same way when I cellar it?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that if I force carb that too much yeast will be knocked out of suspension for it to mature in the same way--is this correct?  What's the scientific explanation?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that I'll add priming sugar to the keg, seal it up, let it carbonate naturally, and then bottle some time later.  Will this solve the force-carbing problem, assuming there is one?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:41:33.220" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:41:33.220" Title="Aging a naturally carbonated ale that was bottled from a keg" Tags="|techniques|kegging|aging|cellaring|barleywine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-05T02:09:16.010" Score="4" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes things don't go so well. Sometimes relaxing and having a homebrew doesn't quite do the trick. Sometimes it's not just going to fix itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be helpful to have some images to compare against as things go wrong. For this community wiki, each &quot;answer&quot; should be a type of issue, like contamination, with an image (or multiple images) that are good examples of the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: This is a community wiki. No one will gain reputation for up votes. Everyone can edit every answer&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T22:20:09.320" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T07:19:26.257" Title="Photo dictionary of things going wrong" Tags="|contamination|problems|mistakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-05T02:09:16.010" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2552" CreationDate="2010-10-05T12:27:37.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally don't think that natural carbonation or yeast in the bottle have much of anything to do with beer maturation upon cellaring.  Yeast obviously plays a critical role in flavor development while making the beer and carbonating it. But I have never heard someone really say that force carbed beer and bottle conditioned beer tasted different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the best homebrewers I know use either technique to carbonate beer the beer largely tastes the same.  Even for when I have done side by sides with my own beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most pro-brewers filter out the yeast to generate a more shelf stable product, for the near term AND long term.  After only a few months in the bottle the yeast is mostly dead or dying.  Years later the yeast isn't doing anything to the beer except degrading into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the flavor changes that come with time are chemical in nature.  Namely oxidative type reactions.  And it has little to do with yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SO my take is keg, cold crash for as long as you can and bottle crystal clear barleywine fully carbed and ready to go...or age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-10-09T11:59:51.920" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T11:59:51.920" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2553" CreationDate="2010-10-05T12:28:10.477" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really, really hate when this happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9cIPh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9cIPh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.b3ta.com/host/creative/67175/1218670664/thumb.EmptyPintGlass.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;b3ta.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure most of you know how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T07:19:26.257" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T07:19:26.257" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-05T12:28:10.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2562" CreationDate="2010-10-08T19:02:35.590" Score="4" ViewCount="10810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about the next brew, and want to kick it up a notch.  I have heard of beers that don't use hops.  I don't know where to start in my research, so I apologize for the broad question, but what kind of beers are there that don't use hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have brewed any of these styles, do you recommend me to try them (or recommend I &lt;em&gt;NOT&lt;/em&gt; try them)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T23:28:43.167" Title="What kinds of beers are there that don't use hops?" Tags="|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2556" CreationDate="2010-10-08T21:14:36.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that in order to be considered beer, it has to have hops in it. Gruit is an example where the bittering comes from something besides hops. There are a whole bunch of things like this I think. I'll try to find more examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-10-08T21:14:36.620" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2556" CreationDate="2010-10-09T11:51:17.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cambridge Brewing Company had a really nice gruit with heather and many other herbs in it that I can't remember.  I talked to the head brewmaster about it (we were there for a beer dinner) and he told me about his experimentation.&#xA;All I can say is that getting one to come out really well takes a lot of trial and error. &#xA;So I'd say skip it, only because you gave me the option in your question to say NO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T11:51:17.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2282" CreationDate="2010-10-11T01:16:09.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ahhh yes to rehydrate the yeast youneed the warm water.  If you dropped it into boiling water that could be your problem right there.  You killed the yeast off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="ED" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T01:16:09.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-11T21:40:56.497" Score="5" ViewCount="1163" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an about to brew newbie who foundly remembers his grandfathers home brew bubbling away back in th e late 50's &amp;amp; 60's when iy was actually (still) illegal) in 20g ceramic crock (w/nothing but cheese cloth over the top) i've got a couple of (nery) newbie Q's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) what was wrong with that initial fermentation process he used in an uncovered ceramic crock&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) when it comes to bottling now, v 12oz bottles and caps why not just use 64oz growlers @ about 1/2-1/3 the cost?  you're gonna drink it anyway, maybe a couple of points a night, w/o 'sharing' it so a growler will be empty in 2 dyas or... 2hours so... why NOT just skip the whole expense/hassle of 12 oz bottling in favor of a 'greener', cheaper alternative in 64oz growlers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;seems like ez 'math' to me &gt; thanks &gt; Ken&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Ken - BeerHere2010 - ADKBREWCO" LastActivityDate="2010-10-12T00:12:17.657" Title="Growlers v 12oz Bottles" Tags="|first-time-brewer|brewing|bottling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2560" CreationDate="2010-10-12T00:12:17.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me try to answer your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Modern home brewers use airlocks to minimize the chance that airborne wild yeast or bacteria will populate the beer and produce undesirable characteristics. A brewer chooses a specific yeast strain for their beer because of the particular properties that that yeast strain has been cultured to impart on the beer. The airlock keeps any other yeast from populating the beer and contributing characteristics other than those the brewer planned for.  Your grandfather's cheese cloth likely kept dust and pests from settling in the beer, but may not have done such a good job keeping out microscopic life. Now, there's nothing WRONG with what your grandfather was doing. It sounds like he was successful with his brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You could use growlers, or bottles with ceramic flip top caps with rubber seals. I've used these in 500ml and 1L sizes with great results. They have a more expensive start-up cost than regular beer bottles (which are essentially free), but greatly cut down bottling time. One concern with using these vessels is that you need to take care when bottling to leave enough space for the carbon dioxide to expand in the bottle. Over carbonation could lead to exploding bottles. This is always a concern when bottling, and more painful occurrence when the bottle that breaks is not only more expensive to replace, but also had more beer in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="609" LastActivityDate="2010-10-12T00:12:17.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2556" CreationDate="2010-10-15T16:47:15.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gruitale.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gruitale.com/&lt;/a&gt; has got a few recipes and lots of info about beers spiced with things other than hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed up one of their Sage Ale recipes, it's just about done fermenting and it's pretty good, really interesting flavor since sage isn't especially bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The discovery world museum near my house has got an archaeologist brewer that runs a brewing seminar called Ale Through the Ages where they look at various parts of the world and history and brew some beer based on the archaeological evidence about their alcoholic endeavors. We recently brewed a beer based on findings in Henan, China, spiced with wormwood, and chrysanthemums. Anyway the guy who runs it has a blog at &lt;a href=&quot;http://distantmirror.wordpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://distantmirror.wordpress.com/&lt;/a&gt; where he posts the recipes and info about past beer he's made for the series. here's one with no hops but a ton of other stuff: &lt;a href=&quot;http://distantmirror.wordpress.com/2010/01/18/brewing-a-medieval-mumm-ale/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://distantmirror.wordpress.com/2010/01/18/brewing-a-medieval-mumm-ale/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T16:47:15.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2564" CreationDate="2010-10-17T00:16:33.327" Score="4" ViewCount="3915" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time brewing, made a lot of mistakes and now I'm concerned that my fermentation is stuck.  Am I just being paranoid or impatient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Six days ago brewed this stout recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6.6 lbs Briess &quot;traditional dark&quot; LME  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.25 lbs roast barley  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz cascade hops  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 oz willamette hops  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WYeast labs 1084 irish ale yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a few mistakes:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Got impatient and pitched yeast around 78/79°F, wort had stratified temp wise, top was much cooler than bottom (where I was reading), since I had used a concentrated boil.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Didn't aerate as much as I could have before pitching.  Thought this might be okay, since I used tap water in the carboy, sparged the wort into it, then topped it off, but in retrospect, maybe not.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Stupidly, did not take a hydrometer reading before pitching yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, for the past three days gravity has been stuck at 1.021, when the recipe says to expect to get to around 1.010 - 1.014.  I can live with the difference in ABV, but I don't want to bottle with unfermented material in there and make grenades.  So my question is:  should I stir this batch and possibly raise the temp (currently 68°F) to get the yeast going or am I just being paranoid, the batch is done, I should bottle and condition it now?  Am I over-thinking this?  At any rate, I learned a lot of lessons about paying attention to temperature, taking readings, etc, so I don't think it's a loss either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I SHOULD stir the batch, how do I keep aeration to a minimum? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T18:53:05.967" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T18:53:05.967" Title="Should I stir this (possibly stuck) batch or not?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|stout|stuck-fermentation|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2563" CreationDate="2010-10-17T02:58:20.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best advice I can give is to still wait it out. 6 days isn't all that long for a brew where you only pitched a Wyeast pack and not a larger starter of yeast.  I ferment normally for 14 days.  If you can raise the temp to 70-72ish that will ensure the yeast wake up and push to completion if possible.&#xA;Normally fermenting at 68F is a great idea, but if your yeast were sub-optimal, a little kick in the pants with a slightly higher temp might help out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T02:58:20.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2563" CreationDate="2010-10-17T14:30:08.393" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Go Ahead&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often shake up my fermentors to keep the fermenters going.  (Just learned that &lt;em&gt;-or&lt;/em&gt; is the vessel and &lt;em&gt;-er&lt;/em&gt; is the organism.)  My technique is to swirl the whole carboy to get the yeast back in suspension.  It's best done on the tail end of fermentation and I routinely shake my high-gravity beers to keep them going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pros&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much reduced risk of contamination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No oxygen exposure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cons&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stuff sputters out of the airlock &amp;amp; could get it your eye (-:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could break a glass carboy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest keeping the temperature the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T14:30:08.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-18T03:54:20.217" Score="1" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to brew a beer, with an approx. alcohol content of 5% that incorporate's a hint of a soy flavor to it. Considering that what process would I need to use. Pilsner? Or another type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Scott" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T17:39:00.400" LastActivityDate="2017-12-11T08:21:22.573" Title="A new beer with a hint of soy" Tags="|beer|flavoring|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2566" CreationDate="2010-10-18T13:33:11.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first recommendation for this type of flavoring experiment, is to go commercial.  I'd go get 4-5 different commercial beers of different styles (pilsner, Amber, brown, Pale, stout or porter) and add soy to it.  If we are talking about soy sauce then I'd just pour a 2-4oz sample of beer and add a few drops of soy sauce to it until it has that &quot;hint&quot; of flavor you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing it this way will help you decide (through clever math) how much soy sauce to add to a 5 gallon batch.  And you'll also get to experiment with different style with soy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You  might find out that it doesn't work with any style and that you'll just scrap the experiment.  That way you won't ruin 5 gallons first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would plan to add my soy flavoring to the secondary post fermentation.  And just scale it up from how many drops worked well in a 4oz sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T13:33:11.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2518" CreationDate="2010-10-19T02:49:29.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I have done this.  In fact, I'm doing it right now.  I took some wine grapes (pinot, from my winery) and crushed them into juice and skins.  DON'T rinse them first.  The first time I just left them in a mixing bowl, loosely covered with an unsealed plastic lid, until they fermented spontaneously on the native yeast.  From there, I made a sourdough starter by mixing in flour every few days while straining out seeds and skins until it was entirely white.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This year I just poured the mashed up juice (aka must) into a plastic bottle and loosely covered it with the lid.  It fermented on the native yeast after 5-7 days. Then I poured the wine off the top and boiled up some DME, cooled it and pitched the native yeast into it (in an Erlenmeyer flask), covered loosely with foil.  It fermented.  When done, I poured off most of the beer after the yeast settled out and stored it in the fridge in a sanitized jar.  Voila.  Native Saccharomyces that you can brew with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't yet brewed with it though... but am making a mean sourdough.  Will let you know what happens with the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T02:49:29.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2566" CreationDate="2010-10-19T13:22:25.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;do you want to just add soy sauce (would that be pretty salty?) to the beer or do you mean brewing with soy beans?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the latter I know the same mold used for brewing sake is used for fermenting soy beans so you could buy a sake kit with the aspergillus spores and inoculate a bunch of steamed soy beans with it. After the mold has grown for a week or so you could add the beans to a cooled wort. This could be a pretty interesting experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T13:22:25.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-21T17:48:11.093" Score="4" ViewCount="1956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in throwing some in the secondary as advised in radical Brewing, but would love to here what has worked and failed from other brewers.  I was thinking around two quarts. I want subtle flavor and no beer bombs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Chad" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T17:36:29.357" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T17:36:29.357" Title="Has anyone used molasses in a beer?" Tags="|adjunct|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2570" CreationDate="2010-10-21T18:19:20.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used molasses, but I've used black treacle.  It's like molasses, but darker.  Molasses has a strong flavor.  I think two quarts would be an awful lot.  When I used treacle, I used about 4 ounces by weight, IIRC, during the boil and the flavor was there.  I'd add it during the boil to help ensure the sugars get broken down and the yeast can eat them, and I wouldn't use much more than a cup or cup and a half of it.  It provides much more flavor than, say, maple syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T18:19:20.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2574" CreationDate="2010-10-22T15:06:14.773" Score="7" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a recipe for a beer that I'd like to simply make bigger, what should be taken into account when scaling the recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine I have an amber ale recipe that I like.  It comes in with an OG of 1.050 and an FG of 1.015, which is about 4.5% abv.  Now imagine I want to boost this recipe to get it to about 8% abv.  Should I just up the total amount of all grains (or extract) used, keeping the percentages the same?  Would doing so affect the color?  What about hops?  Should I shoot for the same number of IBUs, or should I up the IBUs to account for it being a lot maltier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can play around with recipe software to figure out how much of each ingredient to use to hit the same color &amp;amp; bitterness, but that won't tell me if the recipe would &quot;work.&quot;  Have you scaled recipes in this way before?  How did it work out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T12:23:29.287" Title="On scaling a recipe's gravity..." Tags="|recipe|recipe-scaling|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2573" CreationDate="2010-10-22T16:58:28.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't want to up the specialties on the first pass.  If the beer has the right flavor profile you want, then changing those will change the flavor.  Furthermore, if you increase say the chocolate malt, the color will change too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start by upping the gravity with base malt until you got to about 80-90% of the final target gravity.  Then get the rest of the gravity points you need using simple sugar.  The simple sugar will help keep the beer drier than if you just go for it all with base malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you brew the beer you might find that you need a pinch more of this or that specialty malt.  But it won't be the same percentage that you needed to increase to change the OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I haven't made a beer bigger this way, I have indeed made a beer smaller this way and the results are usually good.  Also the podcast &quot;Brew Strong&quot; on The Brewing Network just did an episode on session beers and mentioned exactly these practices.  You may want to check that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah Hops:&#xA;For the most part, I try to maintain the same bitterness to gravity ratio.  Despite that the beer will be bigger and you are expecting to lose some utilization.  However, if you are subbing in some simple sugar at the end of the boil then that lack of extra gravity on the kettle seems to help counter the loss of utilization.&#xA;Working with the hopping ratio can be tricky, but I never expect to get it right the first time.  This is just how I try to get a target range on the first pass without being to far off, then I can adjust the second time around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-10-25T12:23:29.287" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T12:23:29.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2010-10-23T21:38:57.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned Grolsch... if you're gonna drink a beer to re-use it's bottle, why not get a cap you can re-use too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="EricLee" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T21:38:57.253" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-23T21:38:57.253" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2577" CreationDate="2010-10-25T13:48:23.043" Score="5" ViewCount="1291" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone worked with using either burnt caramel or brewer's caramel in their recipes?  I have read a few places that Fuller's is known to use this to increase the SRM of some of their product line, specifically London Pride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am wondering is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much is generally used to increase the SRM?  I am assuming that this will mostly end up being a trial and error sort of experiment over a few batches with no &quot;hard and fast&quot; rule.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How will this affect the OG of the recipe?  Even though it is basically just caramelized sugar, I am assuming that it will not have the same properties of sugar because of the carbon reactions that have taken place.  (And specifically, I would like to be able to figure out the value to add as an item in BeerSmith.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T15:09:52.000" Title="Using Burnt Caramel / Brewer's Caramel in Recipes" Tags="|original-gravity|color|recipe|sugar|beersmith|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2576" CreationDate="2010-10-25T17:56:48.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used burnt caramel so I can not advise you on it.  But if you are not trying to add any flavor, but only darken your beer, you should check out &lt;strong&gt;Sinamar Coloring Agent&lt;/strong&gt; from Weyerman.  4 oz will raise your beer 16 SRM for five gallons so 4 SRM per ounce for BeerSmith.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Burnt Caramel will add flavor to your beer, if this is also what you were trying to do then I have just wasted your time.  Sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastEditorUserId="596" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T15:09:52.000" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T15:09:52.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2563" CreationDate="2010-10-25T21:21:59.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've mentioned a couple of the main issues that could cause a stuck fermentation--underpitching, poor aeration, poor temperature control, etc.  And Dean and Brewchez are both correct in that going with either of their suggestions isn't likely to do any harm, but I'm wondering if you may have scorched the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you take turn the stove off when you added the extract?  Was the bottom of the kettle coated in burnt wort when you were finished?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wort was scorched, you may have a high level of unfermentable sugars in the wort, and no amount of rousing the yeast, adding heat, adding more yeast, etc. can fix that.*  You may simply end up with a high final gravity, and at 1.020 or so, it probably wouldn't be too bad (in the case of a stout).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my early days of extract brewing I would add the extract with the stove still on, and I later learned that this was causing what I thought were &quot;stuck fermentations&quot;.  They weren't stuck, they were simply done fermenting.  Changing my technique to turning off the heat completely when adding the extract and not turning it back on until the extract was fully dissolved helped greatly.  Full wort boils can also help prevent scorched wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Note:  The only thing that &quot;can&quot; make unfermentable sugars into fermentable sugars is the addition of an enzyme like amylase or alpha galactosidase (Beano).  However, I don't recommend even trying this, as you would have to pasteurize your beer at some point to stop the activity of the enzyme.  This would be a topic for another post, but put simply, friends don't let friends use Beano (in homebrews).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T21:21:59.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2576" CreationDate="2010-10-26T12:05:51.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good formatted question, and an intriguing idea using burnt caramel for flavoring and color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However addressing the part about London Pride.  On &quot;Can You Brew It&quot; at The Brewing Network, they covered Fullers ESB.  In that episode, it was discussed that London Pride actually is made from a partigyle process post the ESB run off.  There is an actual interview with the brewer at Fullers, so its not just an assumption or hear-say.  I don't remember any talk about the use of caramel to color or flavor London Pride.  I could be miss remembering it though, maybe someone will set me straight.  I'll try and give it another go soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to the episode:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/632&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fullers ESB/London Pride&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T12:05:51.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-26T22:17:14.670" Score="3" ViewCount="870" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a question that will combine your knowledge of food, chemistry, and beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spiciness is measured in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scoville_scale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scoville Units&lt;/a&gt;. Basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In Scoville's method, an alcohol&#xA;  extract of the capsaicin oil from a&#xA;  measured amount of dried pepper is&#xA;  added incrementally to a solution of&#xA;  sugar in water until the &quot;heat&quot; is&#xA;  just detectable by a panel of (usually&#xA;  five) tasters; the degree of dilution&#xA;  gives its measure on the Scoville&#xA;  scale. Thus a sweet pepper or a bell&#xA;  pepper, containing no capsaicin at&#xA;  all, has a Scoville rating of zero,&#xA;  meaning no heat detectable. The&#xA;  hottest chilis, such as habaneros and&#xA;  nagas, have a rating of 200,000 or&#xA;  more, indicating that their extract&#xA;  must be diluted over 200,000 times&#xA;  before the capsaicin presence is&#xA;  undetectable. The greatest weakness of&#xA;  the Scoville Organoleptic Test is its&#xA;  imprecision, because it relies on&#xA;  human subjectivity. Tasters taste only&#xA;  one sample per session.one sample per session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making a chili beer, and while I have an idea of what I want to do, I thought some math could come in handy. How would you take the Scoville units of, say, a habanero (200,000 units), and the volume of a batch (5 gallons), and figure out how much habanero to add to get the final beer to, say, 75,000 Scoville units?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T13:50:27.460" Title="Using math to hit exact spice level" Tags="|chili|ingredients|chemistry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2010-10-27T13:50:27.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unc.edu/~rowlett/units/dictS.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this professor&lt;/a&gt; at UNC, they make the extract with one pepper.  For the calculation I'll assume that your beer can extract capsaicin from the pepper you use as efficiently as the lab extract (which is most likely not true, but it gives you a base to start from).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This calculation is just a shot in the dark, but it makes sense to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, 1 habanero (seeds and all) is approximately 1 teaspoon of ground habanero powder accourding to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spicesinc.com/p-868-habanero-powder.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this spice company&lt;/a&gt; (we have to get a volume measurement before we do anything), so I will assume that 1 teaspoon of powder is about equal to the actual pepper on the Scoville scale (200,000 in your case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 gallons of beer is 3,840 teaspoons, so would dilute 1 habanero to about 196,160 Scoville units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way overshoots your target of 75,000, so lets try it with half a habanero (about 100,000 Scoville units).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 gallons of beer is 7,680 half-teaspoons, so would dilute 1 habanero to about 92,320 Scoville units.  This gets pretty close to your target of 75,000, and since the heat of your exact pepper is unknown, I would say it's a pretty good approximation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe that 92,320 will get down in the 70,000-80,000 target range when you account for the capsaicin that you can't extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm, not sure how you were planning on incorporating it, but I would slice it half-wise vertically to accurately get half of the pepper, then crush the half you want to use with a mortar and pestle and stir the habanero paste in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T13:50:27.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2570" CreationDate="2010-10-27T13:52:12.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had looked into molasses a few batches back.  I was wanting to impart a slight rummy flavor to my beer as well.  The problem I've read (I didn't actually end up using any) is that too much just makes your beer taste like really bad, cheap, undistilled rum.  That being said, I would err on the side of caution and use less as JackSmith suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T13:52:12.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2585" CreationDate="2010-10-27T23:01:22.900" Score="3" ViewCount="4173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a chili beer tonight. Is there any sort of extraction that needs to happen, or is just adding the chili (I'm gonna puree it) enough? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of adding a habanero (or a half of one) during the boil, and then something else in secondary. Is there any difference about when you add it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T22:25:07.957" Title="Adding chili peppers to beer - when?" Tags="|chili|process|ingredients|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2583" CreationDate="2010-10-28T00:02:39.273" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always just added chilies straight to the secondary.  I've always used roasted anaheim peppers that i just toss into secondary, and never had any problems with infection or anything.  They don't add a lot of heat though, if that's what your looking for.  Then again, they're really mild.  They contributed some incredible flavor though.  I did about 5 average sized roasted anaheims for five gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="655" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T00:02:39.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2583" CreationDate="2010-10-28T12:56:05.047" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would maybe add your hottest pepper to the boil.  That way you aren't adding alot of vegetal matter to the boil.  Sort if like using a high alpha hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I'd make a relish or mash of your less intense peppers and add that in secondary.  Sort of like dry hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also consider serving this beer out of some poblanos if you can find some big enough ones to hold say 4 oz.  It would be a super cool way to sample the beer with friends.  I'd just cut the top off and pull out the seeds and ribs.  Then stand them up in whiskey tumblers or something like that.  Then you'd get some super fresh heat and even pepper aroma. Sort of like using a randall!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T12:56:05.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2588" CreationDate="2010-10-28T16:31:32.937" Score="3" ViewCount="5232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a little trouble with carbonation after bottle conditioning lately.  A few consecutive batches actually.  I have started replacing items such as my bottling bucket, hoses and the like.  I'm down to my glass carboys as a suspect.  I sanitize them with Star San and let them dry, I don't rinse them as per the intsructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rep with 5 Star came to one of our homebrew club meetings and explained that letting the Star San dry will form an active anti-bacterial barrier that will for a while provide protection against contamination while the carboy is empty.  I seal the carboy with a cap for the week that it is not in use, however, I have not been rinsing it before transferring my delicious beer into it.  I'm wondering if the &quot;still active&quot; Star San is hindering my yeast and that is why my beer is not fully carbonating.  Any thoughts?  Any experience?  Should I look at something else as the culprit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since started rinsing out my carboys so I will know pretty soon if this fixes my problem but I'm just curious if any of you have any thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-12-13T17:58:57.623" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T17:58:57.623" Title="Can Star San kill yeast in the secondary carboy?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2586" CreationDate="2010-10-28T18:45:56.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the StarSan will not significantly hinder carbonation.  A week is a bit long.  I generally rise and pour the beer in right into the still-wet bucket.  It's not a problem.  I don't think letting the starsan dry is actually a best practice but it still isn't your issue unless you are getting infections.  In short, StarSan isn't your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you elaborate what your trouble is?  No carbonation?  Infections?  Low carbonation?  Could help more if I knew more.  Beers that secondary for a long time or have a particularly flocculant yeast sometimes need a bit of a boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T18:45:56.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2586" CreationDate="2010-10-28T20:34:13.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An infection is not a likely culprit for undercarbonation.  Nor is the StarSan, provided that you let the bottles dry completely.  I always give stuff a quick rinse after using sanitizer because it always seems like I don't have enough time to let things dry out completely.  I feel better with a quick rinse--I don't want whatever chemical is creating that &quot;active anti-bacterial barrier&quot; in my beer, however little of it there is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undercarbonation is most likely caused by not using enough priming sugar and/or having yeast that is too tired to finish the job--which often happens with higher gravity brews.  I recommend using a priming sugar calculator like this one:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&lt;/a&gt; , and cultivating healthy yeast by using yeast nutrient during the boil and adding pure O2 using an oxygenator before pitching the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T20:34:13.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-29T19:42:32.133" Score="2" ViewCount="562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to rack my cider into a secondary, pulled off the lid of my primary and saw this whitish film. I racked it and the film  stuck to the sides of the primary as the cider level dropped off. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://freesand.com/foto/thumbinator2.php?h=600&amp;amp;image=./fun/cider/2010/what-2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cider film http://freesand.com/foto/thumbinator2.php?h=600&amp;amp;image=./fun/cider/2010/what-2.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Anyone know what that is? The cider didn't smell or taste off, I'm assuming that this was caused by yeast somehow? perhaps a wild yeast that didn't get killed off by my campden addition prior to pitching?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SG was 1.060 gravity when I racked was 1.000 so it's pretty much if not completely done fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bulbous spots are air bubbles stuck under the film. The dark spots are allspice (or other mulling spices) floating at the surface just under the film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T05:55:18.483" Title="odd film on my cider" Tags="|cider|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-29T20:19:21.017" Score="2" ViewCount="3456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still relatively new to brewing, but have made about 10 batches using malt extract kits + 1 kg of Coopers Brew Enhancer (instead of sugar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far all of the batches I've made have been around about 3.5% - 4.5%. At first I thought I might have been getting some stuck fermentations, but given all of the different extract kits I've tried come out to about the same percentage, I'm guessing that's just how it's meant to be using the ingredients I'm using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to scale these up slightly to about 5% ish without sacrificing too much in the way of taste? From reading around, it seems adding extra sugar will increase the alcohol but make it taste like rubbish, and just adding a whole can of extra malt extract will make it taste too sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's not too much in the way of home brew stores around here, so I'm pretty much limited to the home brew supplies I can pick up from the super markets. (Eg the extract kits, sugar, brew enhancer, corn syrup etc) so I'm not game to try to move to all grain brewing (which would have given complete control of the recipe + result)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about maybe two batches, using 3 cans of extract between them but not sure of the effect that will have. I'm guessing if I only wanted to scale it up by about 1% I probably shouldn't be using all the 3rd can anyway....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T02:30:33.863" Title="Raising alcohol content (slightly) using malt extract kits" Tags="|extract|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2589" CreationDate="2010-10-31T00:00:35.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a film like that develop on an Octoberfest last year.  I only got worse with time and the flavor wasn't so good. It looks like a contamination to me.  I think its some sort of mold.&#xA;But if it tastes good to you then just keep going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-10-31T00:00:35.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1496" CreationDate="2010-11-01T23:13:17.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, the easiest way is to zip tie a large nylon straining bag to the end of the hose inside the bottling bucket/keg and rack carefully.  Anything that gets in gets stuck in the bag.  It has worked flawlessly for me every time, and it doesn't get clogged like the nylon over the racking cane as it has a ton of surface area for the beer to get through.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="BKLYNCyclone" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T23:13:17.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2590" CreationDate="2010-11-02T02:30:33.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few good homebrew stores that you could order ingredients from. There is no reason to limit yourself to what you can get at the grocery store. Try morebeer.com or northernbrewer.com and get a kit that fits your desires. Also, the more extract you use the more alcohol you will get. A good 5% alcohol beer might be a pale ale with 5lbs. of malt extract and 1/2lb of sugar. Ferment with a yeast that will attenuate 80% of the sugars. Hope this helps.&#xA;mark&#xA;www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com&#xA;www.thebackyardbrewer.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="mark taylor" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T02:30:33.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2481" CreationDate="2010-11-02T18:31:47.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm concerned, if it tasted amazing, that's all you need to know.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering how you treated your oak chips and muslin bag before putting them in the fermenter (ie: how long did you soak the chips?  did you soak the bag?), because that could be the cause of an infection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="DrDJ" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T18:31:47.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1479" CreationDate="2010-11-02T22:09:35.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ohio alcohol control board has a lot of information on local licensing: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.com.ohio.gov/liqr/Forms.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.com.ohio.gov/liqr/Forms.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;http://codes.ohio.gov/orc/43&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://codes.ohio.gov/oac/4301%3A1-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://codes.ohio.gov/oac/4301%3A1-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TTB website is also quite useful in figuring out the federal licensing www.ttb.gov. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, you will need a commercial space. Brewing, no matter how small the operation is usually considered a light industrial or industrial use. But, you can start out on a small 1bbl system and grow from there if you wanted to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the resources in PJ's response and above, here is another that is useful: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the &lt;a href=&quot;http://legalbrewing.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;legal guide to starting a brewery&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="anda" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T22:09:35.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2599" CreationDate="2010-11-03T12:56:43.497" Score="2" ViewCount="2164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had two demijohns of blackberry wine fermeting for about 3 weeks. One of them was slightly over filled and frothed through the airlock, leaving winey yeasty liquid in the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than remove and clean the airlock, my approach was to drop a bit of sanitiser into the liquid and leave it be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I done a good thing or is there increased risk of contamination?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="660" LastActivityDate="2010-11-06T14:46:18.507" Title="Wine overflowed through airlock" Tags="|airlock|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-05T13:21:34.677" Score="1" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I had enough sloes left over after doing this year's sloe gin, I have a demijohn of sloes fermenting - the first home brewing I've tried. About 2kg of sloes, boiled down with 2kg of sugar, and some wine yeast provided my more experienced brewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's clearly fermenting, but is going very slowly - only one 'glub' through the air lock ever thirty seconds or more. I tried adding even more sugar, and it didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of non-sugar material in there, so is this sloth to be expected? Does it indicate that the yeast is processing the more complex fruit sugars instead of the simple sugar? Is it just going to produce the right result very slowly, or will it fail? Is there anything I can do to find out what's going on in there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T18:25:07.500" Title="Sloe wine: going very slowly" Tags="|yeast|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2597" CreationDate="2010-11-05T15:05:55.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm personally not familiar with fermenting Sloes, but mead generally does not ferment much faster than 1 bubble every 15-30 seconds.  &quot;Relax.  Don't worry.  Have a homebrew.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-11-05T15:05:55.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2596" CreationDate="2010-11-06T14:46:18.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how strong the sanitizer was.  You diluted it when you added it to the &quot;frothed&quot; airlock.  I would have made it up a little stronger than normal maybe 2X stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think though its better to sanitize a piece of aluminum foil, spray the airlock and neck of the demijohn with sanitizer (or wipe with a soaked clean towel with sanitizer), pull off the airlock and cover it with the foil.  Then go clean and sanitize the airlock and replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general though when this stuff happens the fermenter is pushing enough CO2 out of the vessel that stuff doesn't get back in there too much.  As long as the issue is address while the ferment is active the worries are much reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-11-06T14:46:18.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-07T00:15:51.040" Score="6" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Belgian sour that has been in it's secondary for 18 months. With a terminal gravity of 1010 for over the last year, what is the best way to bottle condition this beer? New yeast? Blend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Ben" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T14:03:09.947" Title="Old Brown &quot;sour belgian&quot;" Tags="|yeast|bottling|conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2600" CreationDate="2010-11-07T12:51:29.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If by bottle condition you mean to carbonate, I'd add some fresh yeast.  Preferably a neutral ale yeast strain like WLP001.  I'd recommend using just a 1/3rd to 1/2 a vial of WLP001.  Add it to your bottling bucket along with your priming sugar prior to racking over from fermentor to bucket.  This should ensure more than enough healthy yeast at bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-11-07T12:51:29.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-07T21:56:44.597" Score="4" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a novice at kegging. I don't have room for a kegerator or chest freezer so I simply keg at basement temperature. My basement is currently 69 F and I've had 5 gallons of tripel on pressure for 3 weeks now at 25 psi. The beer is still very lightly carbonated. Is this normal?  I was figuring it would take 10 days at 25 psi and 69 degrees F to properly carbonate. Could there be a problem with my keg?  It seems to hold pressure just fine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:42:13.797" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:42:13.797" Title="Kegging at basement temperature" Tags="|equipment|temperature|kegging|basement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2602" CreationDate="2010-11-08T14:38:48.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 69F with 25PSI a weal carbonation sounds about right.  You are probably at the very low end of 2 volumes of CO2, if not below it.  And a tripel will require closer to 3 volumes to really be right.&#xA;At those temps is never going to properly carbonate.  The beer can only absorb so much CO2 at 69F.  You'll need to chill it down or ramp up the CO2 PSI another 5-8lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T14:38:48.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2610" CreationDate="2010-11-12T14:25:14.353" Score="8" ViewCount="11615" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple question, does anyone know if there is a purely web based equivalent of Beer Smith / Brew Target, etc? Just looking for a decent product that I don't have to install on my desktop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jason" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T09:33:07.473" Title="Is there an online equivalent of Beer Smith?" Tags="|beersmith|recipe|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2010-11-12T15:50:56.960" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple Answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&quot;&gt;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T15:50:56.960" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-13T00:33:31.713" Score="6" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just opened a bottle conditioned &quot;Belgian Black&quot;-- delicious and well carbed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, there is little no head on the pour and the lacing is pretty weak, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I ensure good head retention?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T13:31:21.823" Title="How do I improve head retention?" Tags="|head|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2611" CreationDate="2010-11-13T13:31:21.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first place I always start with head retention is glassware.  If your cleaned you glass with any type of detergent, especially in a dish washer; a head-negative residue can be left behind on the glass.  To really rule this out I'd soak the glass in some warm/hot PBW (or other non-detergent cleaner).  Then rinse really well with warm water.  Finish with a quick rinse in cool water to chill the glass down some, then pour right away into the wet glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing how you came from a bottle too, I'd also mention that you should be careful to use non-detergent cleaners on your bottles too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your water chemistry can have an impact, but slight.  The next steps I'd take are dependent upon whether you are brewing extract or all grain.  Are there any extra head-positive malts in your recipe.  The amount of hop oils can reduce head.  Lastly, perfect yeast health promotes head by limiting the amount of dead yeast that was added at pitching.  Dead yeast give off lipids with will break down head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was an entire episode devoted to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/Brew-Strong-09-01-08-Head-Retention&quot;&gt;head retention on BrewStrong&lt;/a&gt; at the Brewing Network.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T13:31:21.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2010-11-13T13:33:20.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beertools.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerTools&lt;/a&gt; has an online version too. Registration is free.  I used to use the pay version until I started using BeerSmith.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T13:33:20.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2010-11-15T19:05:39.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using brewmate (www.brewmate.net)  I'm pretty new to the hobby but it was quite similar to the beersmith trial I played with and it's free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Didn't catch the web based part of your question, but for those who want free and don't mind an install, I'll leave the suggestion up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Trogdor" LastEditorDisplayName="Trogdor" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T22:37:50.057" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T22:37:50.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-15T21:20:53.150" Score="2" ViewCount="3729" Body="&lt;p&gt;my beer smell like yeast. taste is ok but there is a strong off odor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="mike" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T12:53:19.037" Title="my beer smells some like yeast ?!? taste ok. but smell is off? help." Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2010-11-16T04:08:30.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My co-worker and I have recently launched &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewershub.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewershub.com&lt;/a&gt; which is completely online and free.  We are looking for feedback on the site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can create recipes, batches for a recipe (and take notes throughout your batch), clone other recipes to change them slightly, post tutorials for other people and other features such as favorite recipes, following other brewers, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'd really love some feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;~ Tom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T04:08:30.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2586" CreationDate="2010-11-16T08:28:56.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always use star san right before bottling,never ever had problems with this product. Dont fear the foam!!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jeff" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T08:28:56.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2481" CreationDate="2010-11-16T08:47:35.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might think its possible that infection occour from muslin bag drying out on top and infection happened. I always use few Stainless steel washers (big ones)and boil them prior to hopping or using oak keeping them under the beer and never hitting surface for drying up my muslin bag ,its a possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jeff" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T08:47:35.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-17T02:02:29.463" Score="2" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;Love the taste of ginger, came across Papazian's Dark Gingered Ale recipe and wanted to try it out but I've already got ten gallons of dark beer in the house and I just bought this American IPA kit... would it be a terrible idea to add 1 or 2 oz of grated ginger for fifteen minutes during the boil?  My inclination is to just experiment, but I'm relatively new to homebrew and don't want to do this if it's just guaranteed to taste awful.  Also, I notice a lot of recipes that use ginger also use honey.  Any advice on incorporating honey into this recipe?  Any other spices I should throw in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The American IPA kit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grains for steeping:&#xA;1.5 lbs American 2 row,&#xA;8 oz CaraHell,&#xA;8 oz CaraVienne&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.6 lbs Extra Light Malt Extract&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 oz Columbus pellets,&#xA;1 oz Columbus pellets (30 minutes),&#xA;1 oz Cascade pellets (1 min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wyeast 1056 American Ale yeast &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG: 1.062&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance ya'll!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T16:07:37.943" Title="I want to brew this American IPA kit with some ginger -- terrible idea or give it a go?" Tags="|ginger|americanipa|ipa|honey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2619" CreationDate="2010-11-17T16:07:37.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing you could try is to add some ginger extract to a bottle of commercially made IPA to test it out. If you like the result, you can further experiment with the amount of ginger you think is appropriate to add to the beer. If you don't like it, then you just avoided brewing 5 gallons of beer you won't want to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to do this experiment, please post your results as a comment. I'd be interested to hear how this works out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="609" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T16:07:37.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-18T17:25:35.577" Score="3" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am ready to do some secondary brewing in a glass carboy and wonder if you have to add anything to the beer in the secondary container. Sugar, more yeast etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="GHEE" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2010-11-18T18:38:58.157" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T19:46:38.523" Title="Do you add anything to the secondary container?" Tags="|secondary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2621" CreationDate="2010-11-18T19:46:38.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. You don't HAVE to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, all of your sugars should have been added at boiling time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some imperial style beers have a very high original gravity and attain alcohol levels above the survival levels of the initial yeast population. In this case, more yeast of a different strain (i.e. champagne yeast) can be added to continue fermenting the available sugars. If you feel you have a stuck fermentation, then more yeast could be added to revitalize the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your recipe calls for dry hopping, fruit additions, coffee, penguin beaks, or anything of this sort, then after racking to the secondary is a good time for these additions. But plenty of tasty beers are made without any additions to the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="609" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T19:46:38.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-19T18:58:25.003" Score="7" ViewCount="1764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cornelius system and I'm wanting to keg my home brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious if you need to prime the beer to help with carbonation or if you just add wort to keg and carbonate from co2? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do it this way, does anyone have any recommendations for how much pressure &amp;amp; for how long? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did keg a five gal. keg last year and it got some carbonation but it didn't last very long. I had the beer for about 2 months and at the end it kept some carbonation sometimes but not for the whole time I was drinking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Russ Wilson" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T20:16:21.057" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T23:12:16.277" Title="Kegging home brew" Tags="|kegging|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2623" CreationDate="2010-11-20T12:00:24.657" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you keeping it hooked up the whole time to the CO2?  You will lose carbonation overtime as the carbonation in the beer will push the beer out of the keg when not hooked up to the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can prime your kegs with sugar like bottling to carbonate. Treating the keg like one big bottle, but most people hook up the beer to a tank with regulator and force carb.  There are plenty of carbonating charts out there that show what PSI to set your regulator to to get a certain level of carbonation. THis is also temperature dependent.  The lower the temp the easier it is for the beer to hold carb.  Its not really recommended to bother trying kegging without some way to keep the beer cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that background in place here is a good chart for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot;&gt;beer carbonation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From the chart if you wanted a normal level of carbonation and your beer was at 45F you would set your regulator to 15PSI.  This would give you 2.5 volumes of CO2.  The easiest way to carbonate is to hook it up at this level (make SURE there are no leaks) and leave it set like this AT TEMPERATURE for a week or more.  The beer will eventually come to equilibrium with the applied CO2 temp and you'll be carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point you can hookup your beverage lines and start dispensing.  BUt you have to leave it hooked up to the CO2 to keep the carbonation level constant the whole time you have the beer in the keg.  Regardless of the first pint or last pint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last piece of info will be that you need to attach at least 6feet of standard beverage line to the faucet (out) end of the system.  THis will help balance the system and prevent foaming.  BUt that's for a diffent question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-11-20T12:00:24.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2570" CreationDate="2010-11-20T15:13:36.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used molasses but, I've used maple syrup. I added it at the end of the boil. I added 14 oz to a six gallon batch. I'ts pretty good. I think that using two quarts might be a little much depending on how big you're batch is. Also your going to sweeten the batch up a lot if you're not careful with your ratios. I would try a little to begin with and then adjust your recipe. Don't add the molasses in at the begining of the boil. It can make your beer have a cidery flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Russ Wilson" LastActivityDate="2010-11-20T15:13:36.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2615" CreationDate="2010-11-22T18:14:43.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long have you been brewing?  If you are new to the wonderful hobby, the smell may seem strong but is pretty normal depending on the stage of fermentation.  When I transfer my beer to the secondary, it smells very strongly of yeast but this calms down after a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have brewing for a while, then something else might be going on and I am unable to help you without more information, but if the beer tastes fine then I would say that it is nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T18:14:43.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2597" CreationDate="2010-11-22T18:25:07.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, try adding a little yeast nutrient to your wine, the yeast may be sluggish because of a lack of nutrients.  Mead is another wine that lacks nutrients, so i mix in some nutrient when I pitch the yeast and add a the rest of the recommended amount on day 2 or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this is probably getting to you too late, but it's something to think about for next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T18:25:07.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2010-11-23T01:22:22.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The flavour of Red Wines deteriorates greatly due to the breakdown of the wine in the bottle when exposed to UV light. White wines don't have this problem as much as they are much more filtered and do not contain tannens, etc that break down this way. That's my understanding at least, I read something along these lines in the book &quot;Making Good Wine&quot; (ISBN: 9781405036016).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick google found a very technical study performed - and I'm sure there's a lot more supporting material than this!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wrap.org.uk/downloads/UV_wine_quality_May_08.8a4c4eb0.5388.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wrap.org.uk/downloads/UV_wine_quality_May_08.8a4c4eb0.5388.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="676" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T01:22:22.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2638" CreationDate="2010-11-23T02:03:12.987" Score="8" ViewCount="2026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a recipe that I would like to try, but it is for a 5 gallon batch and I want to make a 10 gallon batch. Is there anything special that I need to keep in mind or calculate when doubling a recipe or is it a straight up x2 conversion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T04:53:08.250" Title="Is there anything I need to keep in mind if I double a recipe?" Tags="|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2432" CreationDate="2010-11-23T02:03:27.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would do what he said and just throw it in. The beer should be alcoholic enough to ward off any infections. As for the number of grapefruit, I have no idea, but if you can wait a while longer before kegging all of it, I would recommend testing it out on a growler or something smaller and scaling from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T02:03:27.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="709" CreationDate="2010-11-23T02:24:22.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might it have been &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.skeeterpee.com/Skeeter_Pee/Recipe.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Skeeter Pee&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T02:24:22.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2636" CreationDate="2010-11-23T02:37:50.477" Score="3" ViewCount="9033" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instance, if a grain is specified at 300 SRM, what is the equation to convert that to Lovibond? What is the equation to convert it back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2010-11-23T04:10:42.307" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T14:38:38.293" Title="How do you convert between SRM and Lovibond?" Tags="|beer|conversion|color|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2629" CreationDate="2010-11-23T03:28:38.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mash:&lt;/strong&gt; Just double the amounts of grain and water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Boil:&lt;/strong&gt; You'll need 250% of the water to account for more evaporation (In my experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hops:&lt;/strong&gt; Judging by what BeerSmith tells me when I scale a recipe, you'll need about 175% of the hops by weight. For both bittering and aromatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast:&lt;/strong&gt; A 16 oz (.5L) starter has always been enough for me. Even with high gravity beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T03:28:38.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="262" CreationDate="2010-11-23T03:29:15.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As someone who's also made very good extract beers, I've experienced a notably better taste, quality and freshness with all-grain. But even more than that, it's given me a whole lot more freedom to experiment. Of course you can experiment with extract, but you can only go so far. I was nervous, too, but as you can read on this list, it's WAY more fun...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="fluffhead" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T03:29:15.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2632" CreationDate="2010-11-23T03:55:54.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, the formula is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;°L = (SRM + 0.6) / 1.35&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for all values light enough to be visibly different to the human eye, L=SRM.  They only start splitting when you get too dark to be visibly different without a spectrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/lovibond-srm-28230/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;More Discussion / Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T03:55:54.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2632" CreationDate="2010-11-23T04:29:19.043" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, a little history.  Joseph Lovibond developed the Lovibond Scale in the 1860's, as a means of implementing quality control into beer production.  The Lovibond Scale works by having the user visually compare the shade of a substance to the nearest shade of colored disks.  Thus, determination of a color on the Lovibond Scale is a human estimation, rather than a scientific measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SRM, or standard reference method, is a more recent method, which measures the absorption of a substance using a spectrophotometer.  The SRM was developed as an answer to the inaccuracies found in implementation of the Lovibond Scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The variance in measuring the color in °L has led different beer experts to develop different methods for converting between the two.  They are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Morey's Formula&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;SRM = 1.4922 * (W * L / V) ^ .6859&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Daniels' Formula&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;SRM = (.2 * W * L / V) + 8.4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mosher's Formula&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;SRM = (.3 * W * L / V) + 4.7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where&#xA;W = weight of malt (in lbs.)&#xA;L = color of malt (in °L)&#xA;V = volume of wort (in gal.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Morey's formula gives a better approximation than the others, since it is a nonlinear conversion.  However, if you want simpler math, both Mosher and Daniels' methods are good approximations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer color is usually measured in SRM.  Malts are often given in °L.  In practicality, the discrepancy makes sense.  I've never seen the inner workings at a maltster, but I imagine color is determined by holding a sample of grain next to a color palette and estimating it's darkness by comparison.  On the other hand, if someone wanted to know the darkness of beer, it wouldn't be difficult to run a specimen through a spectrophotometer, and measure it's absorbency at 430 nm.  It wouldn't be possible to run the malts through a spectrophotometer to find the SRM value, so °L is given instead, and human error is deemed acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T04:29:19.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2639" CreationDate="2010-11-23T04:32:22.160" Score="7" ViewCount="19822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing with a yeast starter right now and I've noticed when I shake the mix the yeast gets more active. I'm wondering how this applies to my actual fermentation. So I was thinking I'd let my primary sit still for 2 weeks then move it to a secondary carboy and shake it up. What are some best practices here and what can make the yeast perform the best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:13:27.767" LastActivityDate="2021-12-03T10:05:29.293" Title="Shaking vs not shaking" Tags="|yeast|techniques|shaking|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2629" CreationDate="2010-11-23T04:53:08.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mostly agree with chrislarson, but I would propose a few differences, if you wanted to be more precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mash:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2X&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Double the amounts of grain and water.  Ensure that your mash tun is also wider, so that your grain bed isn't too tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Boil:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2X&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Since you doubled the volume of hot liquor for the mash, you should end up with twice the volume going into the boil.  Also, if you follow the rule of keeping your heat such that you lose 10% wort volume per hour, then your volume should exactly double.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hops:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2X&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are several formulas to estimate hop utilization, but generally they are a product of the hop weight, alpha acid percentage, and wort gravity.  IBUs, volume, and hop utilization are directly related, so if you expect your gravity to be the same as the original recipe, and your volume doubles, then your hop quantities should double as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2X&lt;br&gt;&#xA;...but this one is tricky, since most homebrewers (and a lot of microbreweries!) don't calculate yeast pitch rates, but instead just toss one vial/pack of yeast into the wort.  If you want to be precise, a good guideline is:&#xA;cells to pitch = (1 million) * (mL of wort) * (°P of the wort)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you thought your equipment setup was going to result in a higher evaporation rate in the boil, like chrislarson, then you would need more water (either in the mash or added later) and consequently, less hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T04:53:08.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2637" CreationDate="2010-11-23T05:00:03.547" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;As far as a best practice, I would SAPS it :D (FYI, I made that acronym up...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starter - Create a starter to get the cell count high enough - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aerate - Before pitching, use one of the many available methods to aerate the wort - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-2.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pitch - When the starter is ready and the wort is aerated, put the yeast into the wort in the primary vessel - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-6.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-6.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suffocate - Do anything possible not to introduce oxygen after this point - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-3.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not recommended to perturb the beer between when fermentation starts and kegging/bottling because you run a strong risk of coming into too much contact with oxygen.  Carefully racking to secondary with minimal oxygen exposure will leave you with plenty of yeast for carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/122/why-do-you-aerate-wort-at-first-and-try-to-keep-oxygen-out-later&quot;&gt;Why do you aerate wort at first and try to keep oxygen out later?&lt;/a&gt; for why oxygen is not good for wort/beer once fermentation has begun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T04:23:56.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2637" CreationDate="2010-11-23T05:03:45.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;...so you want to shake the yeast &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; fermentation is complete and you've racked off the lees?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone disagrees here, please weigh in, but I don't think you'll see a difference, and if anything, you're at a slight risk of oxidizing your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about how the Wyeast pack balloons up after you shake it, that's because you're knocking a significant volume of CO2 out of solution, causing the bag to expand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not what you mean by &quot;gets more active,&quot; please elaborate.  Whatever you're observing, though, is likely just foaming of CO2 from agitation, rather than an actual change in yeast metabolism rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, there is some merit to rousing yeast and helping them attenuate a beer, particularly if it's a highly flocculent strain, as they tend to settle out before they can fully reabsorb the diacetyl and acetolactate.  This, however, is more effective if you do it at the end of primary fermentation, not a week afterwards.  You can achieve the same effect by raising the beer to a diacetyl rest temperature at the end of fermentation, typically about 5°F warmer than your fermentation temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T05:03:45.693" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2637" CreationDate="2010-11-23T13:09:21.323" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your yeast is not getting more active its just bubbles.  Shaking the completely fermented beer is only knocking CO2 out of solution. Shaking in secondary can be a problem if there is O2 in there.  It will mix with the beer and likely cause some oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T13:09:21.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2637" CreationDate="2010-11-23T14:47:26.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another downside to shaking after fermentation has begun is  you run the risk of getting the dried Krausen off the side of the fermentation vessel.  That mixed with the extra oxidation you'd cause can cause quite a bit of bitter, papery off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T14:47:26.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2526" CreationDate="2010-11-23T15:26:34.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very interesting article, I just may have to try this.  After reading the article, it looks like krausening will &quot;better&quot; condition a beer, but I don't know for sure if it will condition a beer faster.  I believe it will carbonate faster because of the amount of yeast and the vigorous fermentation, but once the beer is carbonated I imagine it will condition just like any other beer would.  This does look like a better method though, reading about how the active yeast in the beer in a high krausen state will clean up diacetyl and the like looks great, I will definitely have to give this a try and see if my beer is cleaner than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T15:26:34.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2647" CreationDate="2010-11-23T15:40:32.277" Score="10" ViewCount="51923" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yXz8a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Possible contamination&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first all-grain batch and unfortunately it has developed some kind of growth.  It didn't smell like death, actually smelled pretty good, and the samples I have been taking have all tasted good, so I went ahead and bottled it.  Just curious what it could be and if I will be looking at a loss with this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="618" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:37:45.067" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:38:37.697" Title="What kind of contamination is this and is the beer ruined?" Tags="|contamination|primary|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2438" CreationDate="2010-11-23T15:44:13.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally like adding canned organic pumpkin, it does make the final product kind of hazy, but it also gives it a nice orange color, and I can definitely taste it in the final product.  I might to a little darker on your crystal malts, maybe 60, but your spices look pretty spot on (for my tastes at least, except maybe less nutmeg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I disagree with the &quot;don't bother adding pumpkin&quot; notion.  Some brewers skip the pumpkin, but they're also the same guys that are looking at profit margins before quality.  All of the great craft brewers I've talked to add pumpkin.  In fact, they like to talk about how &quot;real&quot; their pumpkin is (ie. not pumpkin flavoring or heavily processed/spiced pumpkin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T15:44:13.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2644" CreationDate="2010-11-23T15:47:56.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it &lt;em&gt;smells good&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;tastes good&lt;/em&gt; it may not be a contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that looks like a little mold of some sort.  Not the kind that will kill you or make you blind.  Best advice is to drink the beer before the contamination takes over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:38:37.697" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:38:37.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2644" CreationDate="2010-11-23T16:03:59.443" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;White Film on Beer in Carboy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;**Symptoms**&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;White film or flakes on top of beer is fairly common.  It often happens in secondary, or in primary after the krausen falls.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry - &lt;strong&gt;your beer is probably fine!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Causes&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Usually, this is the result of yeast colonies being carried to the top of the beer from the trub or yeast cake by CO2, although in some cases, it can be a sign of a bacterial or wild yeast contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Take a sample of the beer.  Swirl it in a glass and see if it smells funky or infected.  If you can't smell anything unusual, give it a taste.  Does the beer taste sour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, you just have rogue colonies of yeast on your beer.  They may persist until you rack the beer, but should settle upon racking, and will not affect the smell, taste, or appearance of your final carbonated beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer does smell/taste sour, then unfortunately, your beer has become infected.  You'll probably have to scrap the batch.  Scrub all equipment thoroughly with cleaner, and sanitize carefully before brewing again.  If you ferment in a plastic bucket, ensure there are no scratches in the plastic, as they may harbor bugs.  If there are scratches, replace the vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:38:09.767" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:38:09.767" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2644" CreationDate="2010-11-23T16:34:59.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That doesn't look like cause for alarm to me.  Give it another whiff if they start growing hairs or turn black/green.  I don't think you're gonna take a loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer has great color otherwise, btw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T16:34:59.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2656" CreationDate="2010-11-23T16:42:08.873" Score="4" ViewCount="928" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a chocolate stout fermenting at the moment, and I'd like to add finings to this once fermentation is complete.  I haven't done this before, so wondering what the best method is?  I'll be bottling this beer, I assume I need to add the same amount of brewers sugar to each bottle like I normally would?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="685" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T07:05:23.590" Title="Add finings to beer to be bottled?" Tags="|bottling|fining|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2649" CreationDate="2010-11-23T16:59:48.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do it by batch, much like adding priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T16:59:48.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2649" CreationDate="2010-11-23T17:20:14.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;PMV is right on but make sure to let it sit after fining too, don't bottle it right away, let everything settle out before bottling, a week or two should be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T17:20:14.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-23T17:24:03.627" Score="3" ViewCount="1413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just came back from a festival that was serving mulled cider and mulled wine.  I've heard of a few mulled beers, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://historicalfoods.com/8469/buttered-beer-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;buttered beer&lt;/a&gt;, so I know people must make them.  Has anyone out there tried making one or tasted someone else's?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of beer would be good for mulling?  What characteristics would shine through or stand out at high temperatures?  Also, is it even worth carbonating in the bottle if you're planning to mull it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T11:39:15.847" Title="What would make a good mulled ale?" Tags="|beer|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2644" CreationDate="2010-11-23T17:29:26.877" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like mold to me.  I would throw it out, unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T17:29:26.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2652" CreationDate="2010-11-23T17:31:13.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have any experience with mulled beer (but I am certainly a fan of mulled cider).  However, keep in mind that heating the beer will drive off the carbonation, so I would skip carbonating it at all, and it will also cause some of the alcohol to evaporate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T17:31:13.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2652" CreationDate="2010-11-23T17:37:09.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only mulled commercial beer I've tried is Unibroue's Quelque Chose. It should actually be on shelves now if you want to try it, but it's a sweet cherry beer, at 8% ABV. Pkaeding is right, you'll want very low to no carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any off flavors will be magnified at elevated temperatures, so you'll want as clean a flavor as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T17:37:09.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2649" CreationDate="2010-11-23T17:41:55.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with both answers above, but why add finings to a stout? You can get most yeast out of suspension in secondary, with a little chilling.  Further clarification can be achieved with finings, but in a stout the results won't be noticeable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T17:41:55.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="608" CreationDate="2010-11-23T17:44:41.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got the latest issue of BYO in the mail and, lo and behold, one of the stories is about brewing Kvass and Kvass/Beer hybrid brews. I don't know if and when the story will appear online, but the issue should be available in stores soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, East End brewing in Pennsylvania have made a couple of Kvass/Ale hybrids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T17:44:41.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2526" CreationDate="2010-11-23T18:10:06.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried krausening several times before giving up on it.  It's much more inexact than sugar, since the fermentability of the wort you prime with is inexact.  It takes longer for the beer to carbonate.  And there is no advantage to the flavor of the beer.  I went back to using sugar since it was much more exact and predictable.  The one place krausening can be advantageous is in reducing diacetyl in already fermented beers.  The actively fermenting wort reduces the diacetyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-23T19:06:42.970" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T19:06:42.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1081" CreationDate="2010-11-23T19:21:46.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference between flame out additions and whirlpool hop additions is a matter of time.  The flame out hops spend a longer time in the unchilled wort thus breaking down the hop oils and reducing the amount of aroma they impart in the beer.  When they are adding the hops to the whirlpool they spend less time in the hot wort thus maintaining more aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="687" LastEditDate="2010-11-23T19:45:04.477" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T19:45:04.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2637" CreationDate="2010-11-23T19:36:13.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From commenter Mike S: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-2.html&lt;/a&gt; Explains why you shake at the beginning. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-3.html&lt;/a&gt; Explains why you do not shake after primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T19:36:13.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2615" CreationDate="2010-11-23T19:40:16.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suspect that your yeast was overactive/underused. You could try adding more sugars, but really I would just suggest giving it more time to sit. Let the yeast settle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T19:40:16.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2663" CreationDate="2010-11-23T21:21:32.037" Score="23" ViewCount="36545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing from an Austin Homebrew extract kit, and it came with some gypsum.  I thought gypsum was only for modifying water chemistry, but there seems to be some other schools of thought around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does it affect?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When/how should it be added?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much should be added?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T01:29:08.180" Title="What does gypsum do?" Tags="|beer|additives|gypsum|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2662" CreationDate="2010-11-23T21:27:51.010" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gyspum (CaSO&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt;) does a couple different things.  If you add it to the mash, it can lower the pH.  The added sulfate content will also accentuate the bitterness of your beer.  If you want to increase the sulfate for bitterness enhancement but don't want to change your mash pH, you can add it directly to the kettle.  The best way to decide how much to add is to get a water analysis so you know what your baseline is and how much gypsum you might need.  You should never add water treatments just because a recipe says so.  Know your water, then you'll know if you need them and how much you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="3448" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T15:35:54.963" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T15:35:54.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="445" CreationDate="2010-11-23T21:31:53.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual problem is that a brewer will do a partial boil and top up the fermenter with water.  Since wort, containing sugar, is heavier than water it will sink to the bottom of the fermenter.  When you take the sample, you're getting watered down wort from the top of the fermenter.  When doing a partial boil, it's usually easier to compute the OG than to measure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T21:31:53.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2662" CreationDate="2010-11-23T21:49:26.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Austin Homebrew's kits are top notch as is their support.  I strongly suggest you contact them if you have any questions regarding one of their kits.  If they added it, it wasn't done arbitrarily.  It may be a particular style of beer may benefit from it, such as a stout.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T21:49:26.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-23T23:46:26.180" Score="9" ViewCount="2453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that adding cleaned pennies to the wort can help prevent boil-overs.  I guess they could provide nucleation points- I dunno.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any truth to this, or is it just an old wives' tail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T00:26:55.527" Title="Pennies in the Boil" Tags="|beer|boil|boilover|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-24T01:01:30.043" Score="9" ViewCount="32069" Body="&lt;p&gt;More importantly, how can the process or recipe be adjusted to reduce this effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not trying to be crude.  Actually, I'm trying to be less crude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T17:31:00.103" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T17:31:00.103" Title="What causes beer to induce flatulence when consumed?" Tags="|health-effects|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2667" CreationDate="2010-11-24T02:55:17.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that beers containing high levels of residual complex sugars can contribute to additional unwanted gas production as the bacteria inside our digestive system breaks the sugars down. However, no doubt there would be other contributing factors, such as what else you were eating &amp;amp; drinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the residual sugar line of thinking, you could try anything that results in higher attenuation of the beer, eg, using more simple sugars, mashing at a lower temperature, making sure you pitch the correct amount of viable yeast, and otherwise ensuring that the yeast can work in the best conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2010-11-24T22:06:55.303" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T22:06:55.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2666" CreationDate="2010-11-24T03:18:00.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/667&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fourth &amp;amp; final Brew Strong episode on high gravity brewing&lt;/a&gt;, Jamil, John, and Tasty touched briefly on using pre-1981 pennies in the boil to help provide minerals (Copper, Zinc) to the yeast to help them survive the stress of a big fermentation.  (They mention it around the 30:00 mark.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T03:18:00.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2667" CreationDate="2010-11-24T03:54:20.190" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the alcohol, but the answer gets more complicated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beverages with a weak alcoholic content (&amp;lt;5% ABV) are mild stimulants of acid secretion.  Interestingly, stronger concentrations of alcohol, such as standard 80-proof liquors (vodka, whisky, rum) don't stimulate gastric acid secretion or release of gastrin.  The powerful stimulants of gastric acid secretion present in beer, which are yet to be identified, are thermostable and anionic polar substances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt it's sugar, because then cake, cookies, and sweets would cause flatulence, which isn't the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible solution is to brew bigger, stronger beers.  (As if you needed a reason to brew big beers!)  Personally, I've noticed I can drink barleywines, imperial brews, trippels, and other beasts with no ...problems... the next day, but if I have more than 3 light beers, things get ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;source:&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;PubMed Central (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T03:54:20.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="45" CreationDate="2010-11-24T04:27:19.417" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, Simon, your answer was spot-on in answering Jarrod's questions with logical, proven answers.  Props.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Jarrod is asking for anecdotal advice, so here's mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practicality, you can actually often get away with a lot of carelessness.  The problem, though, is this: while the risk is low, the stakes are fairly high.  I absolutely hate pouring out bad brews.  (Luckily, I've never had problems with sanitation.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have, however, made a lot of dumb mistakes, and gotten lucky.  Once, I dropped my screwdriver into the wort while it was cooling.  The temperature was below 85°F, and the screwdriver, being a screwdriver, hadn't been washed in the decade I'd owned it and heavily used it.  I was sure the beer was ruined, but followed one of the big rules of homebrewing: carry on.  The beer turned out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During my first brews, I would clean and sanitize bottles, and at the end of bottling, I would have leftover sanitized bottles that I didn't need.  More than a dozen times, I filled them with beer the next time around, without resanitizing.  It's &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; safe, as I put the bottles into 12-pack bottles, closed the flaps, and little bug-carrying air flowed over and through them, but really, why risk it?  I ended up changing my ways after I made my first gusher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no need to be obsessive about hand-washing/mid-brew resanitizing things that have only touched air, but you should recognize possible contaminants (food, pets, etc.) that could ruin your day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there's no need to sanitize things during final cleanup, if you were considering it.  Just mix up a few gallons of sanitizer on brew day, and take care of it then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it really comes down to is this:  you're pitching 100 billion cells of yeast (or more if you make starters) into wort and your store-bought yeast is a direct competitor to anything that might have made its way into the beer incidentally.  It's fairly unlikely that a few cells of bacteria or wild yeast have a fighting chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it's by no means hard to spoil beer.  Use your head, and sanitize per recommendations.  After all, why risk spoilage over a few simple steps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T04:27:19.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2667" CreationDate="2010-11-24T13:45:10.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flatulence is caused by yeast.  I first experienced this when drinking German beer in Germany.  The beer is not pasteurized and therefore contains active yeast.  This is also true of homebrewed beer.  Unless you are pasteurizing your beer, it contains active/living yeast which continue to ferment (produce gas) after you consume it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T13:45:10.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="769" CreationDate="2010-11-24T14:29:17.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I opened a bottle after a 10 days at warmer temps and.... there are signs of carbonation!!!  So, I guess I'll let it keep going and hope time and temp do the trick.  Thanks for the help!  Is there anything else I can do do ensure it continues?  (I think I saw a post on here about stirring up the yeast by shaking (for lack of a better term) the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="690" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T14:29:17.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="45" CreationDate="2010-11-24T15:20:32.223" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, your beer will be pretty forgiving.  I once dropped a strainer into my fermenter when it was late and I was tired.  So I rolled up my sleeve and grabbed it bare handed.  My hands were clean but my arm wasn't.  The only bad thing that happened is my arm was really sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, to clean my bottles, I just put them in the dishwahser on that really hot setting and leave them in there until I begin filling them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm usually pretty anal with my post-boil/pre-fermentation equiptment. Preboil I just worry about stuff that could contaminate the flavor like grain stuck in the mash tun's manifold.  Post fermentation I clean to standards that I would use for dinner plates, except for keg lines.  Keg lines are important to keep clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, err on the side of clean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="113" LastEditDate="2010-11-24T15:48:04.380" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T15:48:04.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2667" CreationDate="2010-11-24T16:07:32.620" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flatulence from beer is caused by the presence of complex sugars. While simple sugars are easily broken down and metabolized by either the yeast our yourself, the complex sugars persist until your lower intestine. There, they are fermented and consumed by bacteria and other gut flora, producing gas as a side effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can actually &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beano_%28dietary_supplement%29#Use_in_the_brewing_of_beer&quot;&gt;add an enzyme like Beano to the brew&lt;/a&gt;, but it may result in a loss of some flavor. (Though I have heard it suggested for making a low-carb beer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best measure is prevention - careful control of mashing temperature such that the natural enzymes in the malt have time to break down these complex sugars. Allowing for a rest at each of the key active temperatures for the various enzymes give these enzymes a chance to break down these starches and sugars - while just one spike above a critical temperature is enough to denature and inactivate the enzymes, leaving more complex sugars behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar principal applies for for cooking beans. Beans are best soaked overnight - the old-fashioned method - to give the enzymes a chance to work. Many recipes today call for a quick rehydration by boiling - which immediately kills off the enzymes and makes for an uncomfortable experience for many. As with brewing, patience and some advance planning pays off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="110" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T16:07:32.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2666" CreationDate="2010-11-24T16:13:27.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried it and didn't find it to prevent boilovers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T16:13:27.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2680" CreationDate="2010-11-24T17:01:49.273" Score="11" ViewCount="17306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing with extracts and specialty grains for two years now, and I want to step up to all-grain brewing. From what I understand, it's important to get a full boil when brewing all-grain and electric heating elements don't suffice to achieve this. Propane burners are preferred. However, I live in a loft apartment, and so propane burners are not an option for me. (I shudder to think about what could happen if I have a leaky propane tank.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is this: How does one brew all-grain recipes indoors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="609" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T10:08:27.790" Title="How to brew all-grain indoors" Tags="|equipment|all-grain|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2010-11-24T17:09:25.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use an electric stove.  The boiling point of wort isn't much higher than water (give or take a degree depending on gravity).  I use one in the winter, it just takes a bit longer to get the boil started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T17:09:25.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2010-11-24T17:24:40.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard of people using the electric turkey fryers as a brew kettle.  I have searched an they do make 7 gallon models that would hold enough wort to brew 5 gallon batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.turkey-fryers.com/MB_20010406_turkey_fryer_kits.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.turkey-fryers.com/MB_20010406_turkey_fryer_kits.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T17:24:40.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2010-11-24T17:27:36.090" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/pcalinsk/HeatStk3.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heard&lt;/a&gt; of people using the elements from hot water heaters to make heating wands.  A lot of people who make their own &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.brewtroller.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;computer controlled breweries&lt;/a&gt; use these because they actually get more temperature control than propane gives them.  They're pretty cheap to make too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YAVt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-11-24T17:42:07.570" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T17:42:07.570" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2010-11-24T17:28:34.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had mixed experiences brewing indoors.  Depending on the type of stove you have, you might not be able to reach a rolling boil on a full-size batch.  You'll might want to look up your stove specs online and check the burner rating.  Electric stoves tend to struggle to put out enough heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're close to reaching a boil, you can also buy an immersion heating element to augment your heat.  If you're on an electric stove, you can wrap your kettle in a towel to minimize heat loss through the kettle sides - just be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently moved into an apartment, and I have a propane burner that I use on my patio.  Would that be an option?  Or a friend's place that you can use on a Saturday for the price of a few pints?  If so, it's probably your best bet for good heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T17:28:34.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2010-11-24T17:41:32.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing all-grain indoors for a few years now. It's not as nice as brewing outside, but if it's your only option...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I have a gas burner, but previously I was electric as well. I just placed the kettle across two burners. You end up getting two hot spots instead of one, and the boil looks sort of silly sometimes, but it does the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also cover the kettle, but you need to be super vigilant for boilovers in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T17:41:32.237" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2686" CreationDate="2010-11-24T20:26:38.480" Score="3" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking, especially after brewing my last IPA, about getting the most out of my hops.  The higher the SG of your wort, the less you get from your hops, so the more you have to put in.  I've been thinking about boiling a seperate gallon of water while my beer is cooking and throwing half of my hops or more into the seperate one gallon of plain water with a specific gravity of 1.000.  This will allow me to get the most out of my hops, then after 55 minutes or so, I'll poor this into my boiling wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this work?  Does boiling the hops seperate from the wort have a drawback that I'm not aware of?  I'm sure that there is some interaction between the wort and the hops during the boil that I'm missing.  I'm curious though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2010-11-25T18:08:50.253" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T18:08:50.253" Title="Hop utilization" Tags="|beer|hops|hop-utilization|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2683" CreationDate="2010-11-24T20:38:42.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont know that that will help, but you can always use a higher alpha hop variety to increase the utility of your hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T20:38:42.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2683" CreationDate="2010-11-24T20:44:33.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would essentially be making a hop tea, this would improve your extraction efficiency especially if you are doing a partial mash boil.  I would probably only do this for the bittering hops and just add the flavor and aroma to the main boil since you don't get much bitterness from those additions anyway.&#xA;You may also have to tweak your recipe a bit to get the right amount of bitterness to balance with the malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Double IPA kit from Northern Brewer employs this method to increase the bitterness in that particular kit.  When developing these kit the processes are test and proven before the kits are put up for sale.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/double-ipa-extract-kit-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/double-ipa-extract-kit-2.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T20:44:33.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2683" CreationDate="2010-11-24T21:47:24.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an all-grain brew, this becomes more difficult, since you generally need all of your mash/sparge water passing through the mash to hit your target gravity/efficiency.  In that case, you might consider using the last runnings of the mash, since it's more dilute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd rather use an extra dollar's worth of hops than worry about separating my wort, finding an extra burner, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T21:47:24.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2071" CreationDate="2010-11-25T16:23:41.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While equalizing the 2 runoffs does increase your efficiency slightly, if they're within even a gal. of each other it's close enough.  Also, as you learn, you can use the empirical method.  Mash with whatever liquor/grist ratio you like.  After you drain the mash, measure how much you have in your kettle.  Subtract that from the amount you want to boil.  The answer you get is how much sparge water to use.  For more details, see my &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cheap and Easy Batch Sparging&lt;/a&gt; site or my article in Sept./Oct. issue of Zymurgy.  Batch sparging is so easy that when I teach classes on it, the usual reaction is &quot;Is that all there is?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-11-26T15:25:28.630" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T15:25:28.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2683" CreationDate="2010-11-25T16:26:48.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you've ever tasted the results of boiling hops in water, but I have...it's harsh and vegetal and certainly nothing I'd want to put in my beer!  Not to mention, is it really worth the extra effort?  How much do you think you'll save?  It really won't have all that much impact on how much hops you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T16:26:48.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2065" CreationDate="2010-11-25T16:28:13.147" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO, kolsch yeast will not make a good and and vice versa.  Strisslespalt is a great hop, but not for alt.  I prefer Spalt, but Hallertauer and Mt. Hood also make great altbier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-06-07T17:06:17.223" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T17:06:17.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2698" CreationDate="2010-11-25T17:49:38.283" Score="8" ViewCount="2879" Body="&lt;p&gt;To aerate my wort I have been using a whisk, but i am worried about contamination. What are other more effective ways to aerate wort without spending too much money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:50:47.303" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:50:47.303" Title="Wort aeration on a budget" Tags="|beer|equipment|wort|aeration|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2690" CreationDate="2010-11-25T18:27:00.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sloppy Pouring.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my boil's done and cooled, I pour it between the carboy and my bottling bucket a few times, making sure it gets well-splashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing a partial boil, you can often ignore aerating the wort, and just pour the extra water around to aerate, then add that to the wort in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Palmer, this will get you to about 8 ppm oxygen, which is on the lower end of the ideal range for most yeast (8-16ppm).  That said, I haven't had any problem with it, and got a great fermentation on a 1.074 OG stout doing that just two days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T18:27:00.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3461" CreationDate="2010-11-25T18:34:31.973" Score="8" ViewCount="11897" Body="&lt;p&gt;A problem I hadn't really anticipated was how to store/transport bottled homebrew.  I've been reusing old cardboard store-bought boxes, but they seem to be breaking down pretty quickly, especially when exposed to moisture.  I've been reinforcing with duct tape, but I've already had one catastrophic containment failure while carrying a case to my car(no beer was harmed, but it was a close call).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My homebrew mindset suggests I build something myself; I dunno, I assume this is a problem that most homebrewers have dealt with- how do you go about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: Not sure if this is on-topic enough- feel free to vote to close if you think that's the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:51:24.510" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T21:09:34.440" Title="Cardboard alternatives to bottle cases for storage" Tags="|beer|cider|storage|bottles|packaging|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2692" CreationDate="2010-11-25T20:23:44.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I switched to all-grain, I made dozens of Brew House kits.  They are bagged wort kits that come in a super-sturdy carboard box.  They hold a dozen or 16 of the bottles I use, depending on the bottle size, and they easily stack 5 or 6 high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This probably doesn't help you much, since you probably don't have a couple dozen of these boxes lying around.  But I guess I'd suggest keeping an eye open for good cardboard boxes.  Boxes from a liquor store are probably a good thing to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T20:23:44.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2695" CreationDate="2010-11-25T21:34:03.357" Score="9" ViewCount="5502" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the &quot;Belgian Blond Ale&quot; episode of the Jamil Show (podcast) it was said that you should do a 90-minute boil because of the pilsner malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain this further?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T12:17:30.143" Title="90-minute boil for pilsner malt?" Tags="|all-grain|boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2694" CreationDate="2010-11-25T22:59:49.353" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason for the prolonged boil is to drive off the volatile chemical DMS (Dimethyl Sulfide).  DMS give beer that cooked corn flavor and aroma.  DMS is created as the wort increases above 140ºF (60ºC) from the precursor molecule SMM(S-methyl-methionine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All base malts have some SMM, but during the kilning process post malting it is driven off.  However Pilsner malt is kilned very gently at lower temps to get that low Lovibond/SRM rating.  So more of the DMS precursor remains in the malt.  The longer boil time ensures that most of the DMS created is boiled off as vapor.  Its the reason why you aren't supposed to boil with a lid on; because the DMS condenses on the lid and falls back in the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro brew kettles often have a mixing feature that helps drive off the DMS even faster and more efficiently due to the size of the kettles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="13277" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T12:17:30.143" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T12:17:30.143" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2690" CreationDate="2010-11-25T23:06:40.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you rack from your brew kettle to your fermentor with some tubing and racking cane you can get a wort disperser.&#xA;These are little cone like things that go on the end of the tubbing and create a spray of wort as it enters the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/fermenting-equipment/aeration/siphon-sprayer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a link to one at NortherBrewer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of these combined with good ole' shaking in the carboy works pretty well for the cheap route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T23:06:40.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="45" CreationDate="2010-11-25T23:15:15.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, every batch of homebrew is contaminated.  Despite using sanitizer and being careful, nothing is sterile.  We might not like to admit it but there is always a critter other than brewers yeast in our beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said standard soaking of everything in sanitizer post boil, as per the manufacturers instructions for your favorite sanitizer if more than adequate for clean stable home-brews. And often our yeast pitch wins out and consumes much of the sugars and such before tiny intrusions by contaminants can be detected.  (All the more reason to pay close attention to proper yeast pitching rates).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Washing hands constantly, heat treating bottles, using bleach etc etc is often over kill.&#xA;We need to be careful, but one can take it to far due to the fact that none of what we do (or can do) is sterile all the way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-11-26T15:18:25.830" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T15:18:25.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2690" CreationDate="2010-11-26T02:27:34.667" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pour the wort from the kettle into the primary through a colander. The hops get caught in the colander, and the wort dripping through this aerates it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T02:27:34.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2692" CreationDate="2010-11-26T03:05:43.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Milk crates actually do a great job of holding bottles.  But you have to protect them from light.  I know some people actually build 24 bottle case/carriers out of wood to cart bottles around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T03:05:43.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2701" CreationDate="2010-11-26T03:22:04.740" Score="2" ViewCount="943" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the general rule of thumb for how much rice hulls to use? Rice Hulls are cheap but at the same time I'd rather keep them to a minimum when I do use them.&#xA;I have an Oatmeal stout recipe that uses 1.5# of oats.  I tend to use about 0.5# of rice hulls in the mash and I've never had a problem.  Cheap insurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made wheat beers with 50/50 wheat/2 row and I have used 1# of hulls in that scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T13:43:50.973" Title="Rice Hull Usage Amount" Tags="|sparge|rice-hulls|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2700" CreationDate="2010-11-26T04:24:47.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard one pound of rice hulls per 4 pounds of huskless grain.  It really doesn't seem to require much (by weight), since the hulls have such low density.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I probably wouldn't have added it to the oatmeal stout, but I suppose it's better safe than sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T04:24:47.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2700" CreationDate="2010-11-26T13:43:50.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to add very much. I've been using just half a pound for my beer that uses wheat, which is around 5 pounds of wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T13:43:50.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2708" CreationDate="2010-11-26T15:15:53.323" Score="3" ViewCount="528" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard it recommended to pre-rinse rice hulls before putting them in the mash.  Mainly because they tend to be so dusty.&#xA;Is that a good practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T12:27:25.837" Title="Rice Hull pre-prep" Tags="|mash|rice-hulls|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2692" CreationDate="2010-11-26T15:49:29.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The case boxes that breweries used to use for their returnable bottles work well and can last a long time.  They are hard to come by these days but if you keep your eye out at garage sales and even on craigs list you may be able to acquire a couple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T15:49:29.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2709" CreationDate="2010-11-26T16:03:20.597" Score="4" ViewCount="735" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it important to mix up the different types of grains before they go into the mash tun or is it okay to just dump them in separately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T16:46:25.410" Title="Mixing grains before mashing?" Tags="|mash|all-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-26T16:07:52.030" Score="11" ViewCount="131031" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever used the ubiquitous Flesichmann's baking yeast for brewing? Is there a fermented beverage style for which it works particularly well? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T04:21:54.277" Title="Baking yeast for brewing?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2706" CreationDate="2010-11-26T16:28:24.947" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; use baking yeast for brewing, as both yeasts are different strains of the same species, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, but brewers' strains have been cultivated for hundreds of years for specific attributes regarding flavor, attenuation, and consistency.  Bakers' yeast hasn't gone through this selective breeding process.  It will have a lower tolerance for alcohol, less flocculation, and tends to make beer that tastes, well, bready.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, certain styles of beer derive their individuality from the yeast used to ferment them and the distinct flavors that the yeast produce.  Using bakers' yeast would effectively preclude you from brewing most styles of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone once told me using baking yeast was like driving a nail with a brick.  Why not just use a hammer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T16:28:24.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2703" CreationDate="2010-11-26T16:34:54.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's personal preference.  They are usually quite dusty, so some brewers rinse them in warm water, which they claim also helps by preventing them from needing to adjust their strike temperature for the addition of hulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're brewing a lighter beer, like a wheat, it's a safer practice to rinse so that you can be sure that your beer color comes out right.  However, if you're brewing a darker beer, you won't be able to tell a difference in the end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've seen, I think most brewers don't rinse their rice hulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T16:34:54.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2705" CreationDate="2010-11-26T16:46:25.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You definitely want to mix them at some point, either before adding the hot liquor, or stir them while adding them to the strike water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't get them well-mixed, then the grains that don't have enough diastatic power to self-convert (most specialty malts) might not get in contact with base malt.  The result is that the enzymes from the base malts would not break down the starches in the specialty malts, and you would end up with a beer that is lower in alcohol and heavy on starches.  This could be a particular problem in a beer with a large percentage of the grain bill coming from ingredients that cannot self-convert, like a wheat beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it doesn't matter if you mix them before you mash in, just that you mix them once they're wet, and it's a good idea to stir the mash periodically, to ensure that there is no clumping and that all grains have access to enzymes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T16:46:25.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2706" CreationDate="2010-11-26T16:46:32.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The traditional Finnish brew Sahti uses bread yeast for fermentation.  You can see how this celebration drink is made on the current episode of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingtv.com/episodes/2010/11/17/brewing-tv-episode-24-sahti-throwdown.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewing TV&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do agree with Brandon in that for best results use the product for which it is intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T16:46:32.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2712" CreationDate="2010-11-26T17:07:12.340" Score="7" ViewCount="11726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a spray bottle with star san, so I don't use a lot of it each time I brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it okay to store the rest in a bucket and then refill my spray bottle when I need some?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that it should be okay if the pH remains below 3.0. If it goes above 3.0, should I make a new batch of star-san or just add a little concentrate to the mix to bring it back in line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if the bucket starts getting mildewy? Should I throw out the batch and make a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T18:01:45.943" Title="Is it okay to store a batch of mixed star-san?" Tags="|sanitation|starsan|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2711" CreationDate="2010-11-26T17:26:55.017" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can store star san in an air tight container for up to 2-3 weeks and as long as the pH is below 3 it is still good.  It is also best to mix with RO or distilled which will keep the solution from becoming cloudy.  If you use regular tap water the minerals will react with the acid and can turn the star san cloudy but it still is ok to use as long as the pH is below 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually mix up 5 gallons in a regular fermentation bucket with an air tight lid and use it for at least 2 weeks.  If the pH goes above 3 I would pitch it and mix up a new batch because adding more star san to the existing solution may make the sanitizer too acidic.  It's important to always follow mixing instructions to avoid this.&#xA;If it starts to show signs of mildew I would throw it out immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T17:26:55.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2711" CreationDate="2010-11-26T18:01:45.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep mixed star san in my corny kegs for storage, that's always been fine.  But that star san is only used to keep the inside of the kegs clean during their down time.  We keep an eye on as to how long they have been in there and purge them with CO2.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For brewing use, I also keep a spray bottle of it handy, checking the PH every now and again.  I've never had a batch go bad or get cloudy.  But I use it within a month or two.  I never keep more than a gallon on reserve, more than that and I just make up a new batch.  It's easy enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting mildew...well something is wildy wrong.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T18:01:45.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2690" CreationDate="2010-11-26T18:18:11.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to do it cheap, with a canister of Bernz-O-Matic oxygen, a small regulator, and some aquarium stones from Wal-Mart you can do home oxygenation yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple of caveats:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You must sanitize the aquarium stones. They will break down if left in One Step more than five minutes.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Throw out the aquarium stones when you are done.  They are 1-batch use, no way to get them clean again after submersion in wort.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I invested in a stainless steel stone and oxygenate with it, it can be cleaned and boiled if necessary. A kit for this kind of think is usually around $35.00.  I would skip the whole aquarium stone thing and just buy this kit.  The little oxygen cylinders are cheap and last nearly forever, especially if you take the regulator off between uses. The whole kit is really not very expensive and I have found it helps fermentation more than our old splash method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T18:18:11.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2692" CreationDate="2010-11-26T18:45:19.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For general storage I use pick-a-pop 24 crates (I got these from a friend's shed) they work wonderfully well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, normally I'm not taking 24 beers out anywhere, so I am building a couple of wooden carrying cases. One will carry 8 normal (341ml) beer bottles and the other will carry 6 larger (650ml). I will be making these next Saturday and will post pictures and hopefully plans when complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T18:45:19.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2706" CreationDate="2010-11-26T19:12:44.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kvass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kvass&lt;/a&gt;. This is a beer made, at least in part, from leftover stale bread, and so bread yeast is appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="609" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T19:12:44.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2720" CreationDate="2010-11-26T19:28:49.587" Score="4" ViewCount="1687" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious what effect (if any) chloramine-treated tap water has when used in small quantities, such as a yeast starter or when boiled with priming sugar to use a priming solution. My municipal water supply is treated with chloramine year-round, but to a lesser degree during the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing all-grain and have been struggling with some off flavors that I haven't been able to pin down. Generally I use bottled water for most situations, but for priming solutions I've just been boiling my tap water with the sugar. The beer tastes great out of the primary fermenter and at bottling time, but the off flavor pops up after the bottles have been carbed for a few weeks. Any chance the chloramine in the priming solution could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="695" LastEditorUserId="695" LastEditDate="2010-11-26T20:29:39.970" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T09:09:40.713" Title="Chloramine effects in small quantities" Tags="|water|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2706" CreationDate="2010-11-26T19:34:53.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used it for mead with great success using this rather unorthodox recipe:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winepress.us/forums/index.php?showtopic=6114&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.winepress.us/forums/index.php?showtopic=6114&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know that it's generally useful for mead, but it's hard to argue with yummyness. :p&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="708" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T19:34:53.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2717" CreationDate="2010-11-26T20:02:45.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chloramines or Chlorine will give your beer a medicinal or band-aid type of flavor.  The chloramine reacts with phenols in the fermenting beer to create this off flavor.  The easiest way to get rid of the chloramine is to run it through a block carbon filter.  You could also use the Britta type filters but these don't work quite as well as the block carbon because they use granulated charcoal.&#xA;You can also use potassium metabisulfite or campden tables, about a 1/2 oz will dechlorinate about 20 gallons of water.  The boiling method will work to remove chlorine but is not very effective at removing it from water treated with chloramine.  Here is a link to an article in Brew Your Own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/wizard/article/section/121-mr-wizard/475-clearing-chloramine-a-historical-hopping-mr-wizard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.byo.com/stories/wizard/article/section/121-mr-wizard/475-clearing-chloramine-a-historical-hopping-mr-wizard&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="687" LastEditDate="2010-11-26T20:16:54.277" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T20:16:54.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2703" CreationDate="2010-11-26T21:22:38.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In John Palmer's book &quot;How to Brew&quot; he recommends that you rinse the rice hulls thoroughly before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T21:22:38.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="608" CreationDate="2010-11-26T22:24:39.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I did. I did it many years ago. The main ingredients were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maple_syrup&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;maple&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Birch_sap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;birch sap&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;roasted barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dried apples&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maple sap is the source of sugar. Maple had to be diluted by birch sap because of first one is too rich on sugar and after some time the kvass might be too richness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2yMnA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="711" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T22:24:39.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2666" CreationDate="2010-11-27T12:07:39.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effect that you are describing is that of adding a nucleation point (or site) to the kettle, as you said.  A nucleation point provides a place for bubbles to form and release and will help to prevent boilovers.  That being said, though, a penny (or a few pennies) will not have enough surface area to help a batch that large.  At places that sell cooking gadgets, you can get a ceramic &quot;boilover preventer&quot;.  I have used these for cooking, and they work pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for brewing, though, I have to recommend Fermcap-S.  It is one of those things that once you use it, you will never know how you brewed without it.  The cost is very minimal, when you determine how long a bottle lasts you.  Last night's brew session, I realized I didn't have any and started without.  I was having really bad foaming issues that was causing me to back off the boil, so I added a couple of Gas-X pills.  In a pinch, this is something I have done a couple of times, and it works well - although not as good as Fermcap-S.  Cost per batch will easily fall into favor of Fermcap-S, as well, when comparing the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2010-11-27T12:07:39.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2703" CreationDate="2010-11-27T16:56:45.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other thing about rinsing them before use is that they'll soak up less of your mash water if they're wet first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-27T16:56:45.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2739" CreationDate="2010-11-27T20:35:19.903" Score="22" ViewCount="11611" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much oxygen do I need to put into my wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard that homebrewers need to aerate with an oxygen stone and either aquarium pumps or oxygen.  Is this true, or is shaking my carboy enough to get proper oxygenation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much oxygen is needed?  Does it vary based on the wort?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How effective are the various methods?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:51:49.160" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T11:43:35.780" Title="How to Properly Oxygenate Wort" Tags="|beer|techniques|wort|aeration|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2727" CreationDate="2010-11-27T23:13:57.433" Score="6" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed a good dozen batches of beer from kits, extract, extract+grain, and now all-grain, and I've never measured gravities. Why measure gravity, besides to know what you're getting? Is there any advantage to putting the beer in the secondary as soon as the measured gravity has finalized, instead of just guessing observing that the fermentation is done? Any other reasons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T16:55:56.713" Title="Why measure gravities?" Tags="|beer|specific-gravity|original-gravity|hydrometer|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2726" CreationDate="2010-11-27T23:23:13.757" Score="18" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If brewing all-grain, taking gravity readings after mashing allows you to &lt;strong&gt;calculate your mash efficiency&lt;/strong&gt;. If your efficiency is low (meaning you're not getting good conversion), you can use this knowledge to pin down problems in your recipe, milling, and mash/sparge processes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Measuring the gravity before and after fermentation allows you to &lt;strong&gt;calculate the amount of alcohol&lt;/strong&gt; in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Taking multiple gravity measurements near the end of fermentation allow you to &lt;strong&gt;verify that primary fermentation is complete&lt;/strong&gt;. Airlock activity alone is not enough. This is especially important when bottling as an incomplete primary fermentation greatly increases the risk of bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using a beer thief and hydrometer makes you feel like a mad scientist and impresses your friends.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-11-27T23:23:13.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2726" CreationDate="2010-11-28T01:11:12.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed many batches where I never checked the gravity in the past.  You don't really need to check the gravities to make great beer.  You do run the risk of not knowing when a beer is complete and maybe having overcarbonation issues in the bottle. But good fermentation practices should, normally, take care of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think that when you get past just wanting to make beer to drink and you really want to start nailing down a great recipe; gravity measurements are part of many different data points to collect.  Getting those #s help you to hone in on potential issues.  And they also help you monitor consistency batch to batch.  A solid process in the brew house yields the ability to build better beer because you are consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2011-11-13T16:55:56.713" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T16:55:56.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2692" CreationDate="2010-11-28T01:40:27.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing made of cardboard is going to last long or retain strength exposed to moisture - humidity alone will soften even the heaviest double ply corrugated cardboard over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bets for transporting bottles would be plastic milk crates or wooden bottle crates.  The bottles will rattle around in the milk crate and won't be a perfect fit.  The partitions in the old wooden bottle crates keep everything neat and tidy with a lot less &quot;klink&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can still find Coca Cola bottle crates at antique shops, but they will likely be priced for nostalgia than for utility.  If you're handy with a table saw, you can build a dozen wooden bottle crates from 1 inch and quarter inch slats in a weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastActivityDate="2010-11-28T01:40:27.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="45" CreationDate="2010-11-28T02:11:23.480" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following normal, reasonable sanitation practices (always sanitize containers and utensils immediately before use) usually keeps the risk of infection pretty low.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The greatest risk of infection after containers and utensils is simply open air.  Keep your containers covered while working, even if you're just turning away for a few minutes.  Keep your empty bottles inverted until you fill and cap each one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetobacter is very common in household environments and can be found just about anywhere that dust settles on surfaces.  If it gets into your brew, particularly after fermentation, it will convert your alcohol to vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This probably isn't a common concern, but one to keep in mind:  If you make other types of fermented foods besides beer/wine/cider, you should segregate what you make where to avoid contamination.  Baking bread puts yeasts into the air, but they probably won't spoil a ferment.  However, creating vinegar or lactic fermination products like saurkraut involve acetobacter and other cultures that could be bad news for beer, so it would be prudent to not do these other projects in your brew room.  I brew cider in the kitchen and cider vinegar &amp;amp; kraut in the garage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastActivityDate="2010-11-28T02:11:23.480" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-28T03:25:58.897" Score="2" ViewCount="989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was planning to make an IPA and was planning to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wyeast #1056&lt;/a&gt; but i think that I mixed up my yeast with another guy at the store cus after I pitched i noticed that the yeast I had added was actually &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.ca/search?sourceid=navclient&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;rlz=1T4ACAW_enCA356CA356&amp;amp;q=wyeast+1275&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast #1275 Thames Valley Ale&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My beer is really cloudy still after a week in primary and another week on secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if this will ever clear or maybe it is just what that yeast produces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="719" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2010-11-28T08:46:31.023" LastActivityDate="2010-12-04T02:17:06.227" Title="Wrong yeast....cloudy beer?" Tags="|beer|yeast|clarity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2731" CreationDate="2010-11-28T05:24:13.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used Wyeast 1275, Thames Valley Ale, but I've brewed with 1056, American Ale, plenty of times, and 1056 usually isn't very clear to begin with.  From the description of 1275, I doubt it would be much hazier, if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that both yeasts make cloudy beer, and that if you dry-hopped your IPA, you further muddied the waters, I wouldn't expect any less, and I wouldn't be surprised if the beer stays murky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try cooling the beer to get particulate matter to drop out of suspension.  I would recommend getting it down to around 40°F if that's possible with your setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're still not happy with the appearance, you can try adding finings for clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out, there's a great post &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1815/how-do-you-filter-at-home&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that covers steps to clarify beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would be more interested in the flavor and aroma variations as a result of the yeast swap than any appearance changes.  You should expect your beer to be less estery and taste more grainy like a British beer... should be interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2010-11-28T05:24:13.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2706" CreationDate="2010-11-28T15:45:05.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen it used to carbonate beer in the bottle. I saw it used to carbonate rootbeer too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2010-11-28T15:45:05.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2731" CreationDate="2010-11-28T16:42:32.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're rushing things...let the beer, not the calendar, make the schedule.  Give the beer 2-4 weeks in primary from now on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2010-12-04T02:17:06.227" LastActivityDate="2010-12-04T02:17:06.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="88" CreationDate="2010-11-28T16:45:18.933" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The current recommendation from homebrew experts John Palmer and Jamil Zainisheff is to never use a secondary unless you are doing an actual secondary fermentation...i.e., adding additional sugars or fruit.  The previous ideas that you should move your beer off primary quickly came from commercial brewing examples.  since we don't have fermentations on the same scale, that recommendation doesn't apply to us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-28T16:45:18.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2690" CreationDate="2010-11-28T16:48:37.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use MixStir wine degasser attached to a cordless drill.  Based on the results, it's remarkably effective and costs under $20.  It's the preferred method of 2 time Ninkasi winner Gordon Strong, also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-11-28T16:48:37.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2753" CreationDate="2010-11-28T22:16:44.663" Score="11" ViewCount="2344" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, aeration provides oxygen so that the yeast can reproduce before fermentation. If you're pitching onto an existing yeast cake, there should theoretically be enough yeast already to begin fermentation without needing to reproduce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the wort be aerated anyway (or should it &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be)? Does the particular beer make a difference (i.e. pitching the same recipe as before vs. pitching a different recipe)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T13:18:21.517" Title="Is it necessary to aerate wort when pitching onto an existing yeast cake?" Tags="|beer|yeast|reusing-yeast|aeration|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2010-11-28T23:14:36.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned about using good practice, you really shouldn't rack fresh wort onto a used yeast cake.  The trub contains a lot more than just healthy yeast, and doing this doesn't allow you to control your pitch rate.  I know that doesn't really answer the question, but it seems that your general procedure leaves more room for error than the oxygen factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Downvote all you want, but I quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A number of homebrewers have adopted the practice of transferring the beer from a fermentor and the end of fermentation and then adding a new batch of wort on top of the yeast cake.  This is a bad practice.  Can this practice make good beer?  Absolutely.  Will it make the best beer possible?  Absolutely not.  The yeast at the end of fermentation is not just healthy yeast.  There are plenty of dead cells present, as well as the break material and hop bits from the previous wort.  You must collect the yeast, look at the population, remove dead cells and nonyeast material by rinsing, and then reuse only the proper quantity of cells in the next batch.  Do not be lazy.  Always clean and sanitize your fermentor between batches, and always ensure you are pitching the correct number for cells for the beer you are brewing.  Yeast growth is important to beer flavor, and overpitching (especially with excessive trub) can have a negative effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: White, C. and Zainasheff, J.  Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation. p 164.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, reusing yeast is fine, but racking fresh wort onto old yeast is not fine.  Not that you can't do it, just that it's sloppy.  If you're gonna do it, though, might as well not bother with aeration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-11-29T05:41:34.207" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T05:41:34.207" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2725" CreationDate="2010-11-28T23:34:04.010" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it turns out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The proper amount of oxygen dissolved in wort is &lt;strong&gt;8-10 ppm&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shaking&lt;/strong&gt; typically yields around &lt;strong&gt;4 ppm&lt;/strong&gt;.  It's possible to achieve as much as 8 ppm with plenty of headspace and LOTS of vigorous shaking. As an example, 5 minutes of shaking a 1.077 wort may only achieve 2.7 ppm.  Siphon sprayers will be in the same range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air with an Oxygen Stone&lt;/strong&gt; can also only reach &lt;strong&gt;8 ppm&lt;/strong&gt;, regardless of the amount of time the stone is in the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oxygen with an Oxygen Stone&lt;/strong&gt; Using a .5-micron stone and a flow rate of 1 L O2 / min, you need around 60 seconds to get 9 ppm, as shown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;30 seconds pure O2          5.12 ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;60 seconds pure O2          9.20 ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;120 seconds pure O2        14.08 ppm&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When oxygenating a higher-gravity wort, you need higher oxygen levels - roughly proportionate to the amount of yeast.  However, it's usually recommended to reoxygenate after the yeast have time for a cell division, This will result in a cleaner-flavored beer.  Obviously, if you want your beer to have more off-flavors (specifically acetaldehyde and diacetyl), then a second dose of oxygen is counter productive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like I need to make a trip to the pet store...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Keep in mind these values are also temperature dependent.  The cooler the wort is, the better your ppm aeration will be in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-11-30T12:58:32.987" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T12:58:32.987" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2746" CreationDate="2010-11-29T12:26:03.380" Score="8" ViewCount="12577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to store some homemade organic red wine in bottles. For how long can it be stored without using any chemicals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T14:13:33.413" Title="How long can organic wine be stored without chemicals?" Tags="|storage|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2010-11-29T14:20:42.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have definitive evidence one way or another, but here's my thoughts on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two or three times I have pitched onto an existing yeast cake, I have always followed my standard aeration procedure and things have been fine.  Good fermentation, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is this:  If you are going to pitch on an existing yeast cake (setting arguments about whether this is good practice or not aside), aerate like normal.  Aeration is part of the normal process and if nothing else, practice makes perfect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that, considering there might be side-effects of NOT aerating, why not do it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably not the best answer to your question, but that's where I stand on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T14:20:42.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2010-11-29T15:56:05.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not need to aerate. The purpose of the aerobic stage of the yeast lifecycle is reproduction and if you are pitching on a an existing yeast cake, there should be no need to build up your yeast count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T15:56:05.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2740" CreationDate="2010-11-29T18:55:00.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that you can actually put a specific time table on how long Organic wine can be stored.  It will depend greatly on the style of the wine.  Wine really doesn't spoil per say but it becomes less enjoyable to drink as it passes it's prime.  As with most wines and beers there is definitely a point of diminishing returns when it comes to aging and about the only way to determine when that is would be to taste it. &#xA;You can make some obvious assumptions about how long based on the style, the stronger bolder wine will age longer and the lighter more subtle wines will deteriorate faster.  Other than the basics you will have to make a decision on a per batch basis.&#xA;You can also expect that since there are no stabilizers or sulfites added to Organic wine that they will be more likely to hit their peak sooner than a treated wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T18:55:00.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2754" CreationDate="2010-11-29T19:55:17.913" Score="4" ViewCount="2821" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far I have brewed 5 times. First went perfect, though it was the first time I was using my kit and the grains were already ground. Second and third batches went wrong. My concern is with the last two batches. #4 is a pale ale, and I started opening the bottles after 7 days priming in the bottles. Fermentation went for ~7 days with fermentis US-05. For this btah I have bought a manual mill that crunches the grains by rubbing two iron discs. At first I though that this mill could be throwing some iron, and this could be the reason for this taste, but I hope that this is only because the beer is still not at it's peak. #5 is a weissbier fermented for 6 days with fermentis wb6, but has exactly this same taste at some point. It is a week younger than the pale ale, and I can tell that this acid/sour/metallic taste is a bit more characteristic in this one. Could it be something with my equipment or the way I grind the grains or is it just me that don't want to wait the time the beer need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few more information about the fermentation: both were rehidrated 11,5 g. packs, and kept at temperatures between 19 and 25 degrees celcius. I have moved the Pale Ale to the fridge at around 8 degrees celcius after 7 days priming in the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastEditorUserId="126" LastEditDate="2010-11-30T14:27:32.080" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T14:27:32.080" Title="My beers are with a slight acid taste after the few first sips. What could be wrong?" Tags="|equipment|off-flavor|taste|mill|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="45" CreationDate="2010-11-29T20:08:12.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jarrod, you can't brew deadly poison.  Though the spoiled brew might taste like poison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PMV's comment about pre-fermentation sanitation is right-on.  That's when most bacteria will get hold.  And brewchez also points out correctly that the pitch rate of a good starter will take care of things because the yeast will out-compete any contaminant (and there are some) and the alcohol and hops will weaken &amp;amp; kill off most later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get all OCD.  A few batches under your belt will begin to take the fear off.  But do sanitize everything that comes in contact with the beer, including bottle rims.  If I handle something that comes in contact with the beer, I'll (usually) sanitize it again since I'm touching other non-sanitary things like the kitchen counter and other brewing gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe think of it like the person at a cafe handling food and money.  If they're touching your food after handling money, then they're transferring any goo that the money has on it to your food.  Gross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="301" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T20:08:12.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2740" CreationDate="2010-11-29T20:19:03.910" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preservatives generally aren't a part of winemaking, at home or commercially.  If you are referring to sulfites, these are added to kill the yeast to stop fermentation at a specific point, not to preserve the wine per se.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most sulfites dissipate, break down, or precipitate out within about 24 hours after application.  They are not preservatives because they will not protect a wine from contamination weeks or months after application.  Vinegar, salt, and sodium benzoate are food preservatives because they inhibit microorganism growth long after application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people can have an allergic reaction to sulfites even in extremely small amounts, so it is best for these people to seek out wines that have not used sulfites at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other ways to stop fermentation besides adding sulfites.  I've heard of chilling the wine in the vat to cause the suspended yeast to precipitate to the bottom, then drawing off the clarified wine from the top.  Pasteurization is also a possibility, though I suspect the heat will alter the flavor profile of the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making your own wine, it's not technically necessary to do anything to remove the yeast from the wine before bottling.  However, the risk of leaving live yeast in the bottle is that it could continue to ferment which will lower the sugar content of the wine (changing it's flavor) and increase CO2 pressure inside the bottle.  This could cause the bottle to explode or pop its cork, making a mess of your wine cellar.  If it doesn't pop the cork, the extra CO2 will make the wine fizzy when poured.  If you want a sparkling cider or fruit wine this is great but if you want a smooth deep red wine it's bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to limit the risk of blown corks is to minimize the amount of yeast that gets into the bottle (by cooling or filtering, or sulfiting) and then store the bottled wine in a very cool cellar with a very constant temperature.  If your storage area can change temp by 5 or 10 degrees seasonally, the live dormant yeast will reactivate at warmer temps and blow your corks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had corks blow out on me because I don't always sulfite before bottling, and my &quot;cellar&quot; is really just a dirt floor crawlspace under the house that while cool all year, does experience seasonal temperature fluxuations that you wouldn't see in a sealed cellar vault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All wines will change in the bottle over time, but each wine matures at a different rate and in different ways depending on the chemistry in the bottle and how it is stored (temperature swings, etc).  One of the things that happens in aging is tanins break down.  Tanins give wine a sharp tang and some bitterness.  A young wine will have a harsh flavor, but that same wine left to age a few years will become much more mellow as the tanins break down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White wines and fruit wines generally don't improve with age. You drink them the first or second year after bottling.  Cider and beer benefit from aging at least a few months in the bottle to &quot;take the edge off&quot; but are usually consumed within the first year or so of bottling.  Red wines, because they contain so much tanin, often improve with age on a time scale of years to decades.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a fellow who seeks out &quot;cheap&quot; red wines with a particular flavor profile that he will age for 5, 10, 15 years before sharing with friends.  He buys several cases at $5 a bottle but after years of aging he enjoys a wine with the depth and complexity of a $50 bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as wine is kept sealed, cool, and dark it shouldn't ever go &quot;bad&quot; in the sense of becoming toxic.  It will eventually reach its peak flavor profile and then gradually become less palatable over time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wine that has lost its seal (cork dried out because of improper storage, cork compromised by mold because of improper storage) will most likely &quot;just&quot; turn to vinegar but could also be toxic.  If unsure, discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T20:19:03.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2010-11-29T20:27:04.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sour&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;acidic flavor&lt;/strong&gt; could be a sign of a bacteria infection. The first thing to check would be your equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Metallic&lt;/strong&gt; flavors are likely due to an oxidizing metal which seems unlikely, unless your bottle caps are rusty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T20:27:04.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2010-11-29T20:34:08.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brew Strong made a great podcast about metals in beer. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/Brew-Strong-09-29-08-Metals-that-Affect-Your-Beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/Brew-Strong-09-29-08-Metals-that-Affect-Your-Beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could potentially be some degrading or poor cleaning of your brew kettle. If your grinders blades actually touch that could definitely be it. You do want your grains to remain a little coarse. It could potentially be infected, but I doubt it. Infection would change the beer more drastically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T20:34:08.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2725" CreationDate="2010-11-30T01:53:07.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use a spaghetti strainer to aerate by lifting and splashing just as our wort chiller brings the temperature below 80. Hot liquids don't hold as much oxygen, so we wait until the end of the chill.&#xA;Jim F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jim F" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T01:53:07.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2751" CreationDate="2010-11-30T04:27:11.117" Score="33" ViewCount="1137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like reusing yeast to save money, and I like having my own &quot;house&quot; yeast.  However sooner or later my yeast eventually dies and becomes unusable.  I have a feeling that each time I repitch, I'm getting more an more crap and less and less yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once read something that either White Labs or Wyeast put out on how to properly clean yeast for reuse, but the page has since been down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have a good method of cleaning the yeast they plan on reusing?  Also, what temp do you normally store yeast waiting to be reused?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I just pour most of the beer off the slurry then mix it all up and toss it into some bigger bottles.  When it comes time to pitch I dump off the old beer and dump in the old yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:13:50.683" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:13:50.683" Title="How to clean yeast" Tags="|yeast|techniques|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2750" CreationDate="2010-11-30T04:54:57.553" Score="33" Body="&lt;h2&gt;How to Rinse Yeast for Reuse&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Collect yeast solids from fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place yeast in sanitized (or better yet, sterile) container with water.  The water volume should be around 4-5X that of the yeast.  A cylindrical, tall container with a screw-on cap works well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave some headspace for air for shaking.  Seal the container.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shake vigorously.  Really vigorously: it's not a polaroid picture.  Make sure you break up yeast flocs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let yeast settle for a few minutes.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;    - You should see a first layer form at the bottom: dead cells, brown yeast, and hop matter.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;    - A second, thicker, creamier layer will form.  This is your viable yeast.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;    - A top layer will form more slowly, containing lighter cells and proteins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour the top layer off and discard.  Collect the middle layer.  Discard bottom layer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Storing Yeast&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store yeast between &lt;strong&gt;33°F&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;36°F&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid using strong or hoppy beer as a storage medium.  Sterile distilled water works well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to reuse yeast within &lt;strong&gt;14 days&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outside of two weeks, consider a viability test.  Most strains of yeast will lose 50% viability every 4 weeks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-11-30T05:00:52.617" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T05:00:52.617" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2756" CreationDate="2010-11-30T07:16:23.740" Score="5" ViewCount="8179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used Campden tablets per a recipe for cider to prepare the unpasteurized cider before pitching yeast, but recently came across the following in Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Campden tablets are also used towards&#xA;  the end of the fermentation process to&#xA;  halt the ferment before all the&#xA;  available sugars are converted by the&#xA;  yeast, hence controlling the amount of&#xA;  residual sweetness in the final&#xA;  product. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campden_tablets&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with this?  I've never seen this particular use in a recipe, but it seems like it could be very handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T21:29:19.960" Title="Campden Tablets to Control Final Sugar Content" Tags="|specific-gravity|sugar|campden|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2010-11-30T12:50:40.907" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, depending on the age of the cake there should be no need to re-aerate the wort for growth purposes.  Using the full on yeast cake will make fine beer without the need of extra O2 for yeast growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside to this practice is that without some active reproduction going on you don't always get the true flavor profile of the yeast in the beer.  I have pitched the same English Pale recipe directly on the cake from the last run of a beer in order to make twice that amount of beer (and save on yeast).  But the resulting beer had very little of the English yeast character that the first batch had.  The second batch tasted more clean, much like WLP001 American Ale yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best practice when using cake is to harvest some of the cake and repitch it into well aerated wort.  The benefit of using cake this way is that you do not need to do a starter to get the proper cell count for pitching.  But you do need to aerate inorder to have that pitch growth enough for proper flavor development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T12:50:40.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2010-11-30T12:55:41.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the information in your post your beer sounds green to me.  Less experienced brewers tend to rush the process along, and they also have less than ideal fermentation practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend you start pitching 2X packs of dry yeast, or be sure to rehydrate the one you do use in clean sterile water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also watch the fermentation temps and time.  Let your beers sit in primary for at least 10-14 days.  This is vital for proper yeast flavor development and a complete fermentation cycle.  Do not pay attention to the bubbling in the airlock and assume things are done.  There is much going on in the beer after the bubbling stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, be diligent with your cleaning and sanitation.  Your first batch was fine, so I'd suspect your early brewing paranoia settled out some and you aren't as careful as the first time.  Exercise patience and you will be rewarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T12:55:41.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2652" CreationDate="2010-11-30T15:53:36.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For mulling ale, choose a strong and sweet ale, not to bitter (as the percieved bitterness increases much with heating). This way you do not have to add anything else (which is good for purists like me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat it quickly. Traditionally a red hot poker was used. The mulled ale is ready when it is as hot as you can possibly drink comfortably in big sips. It takes some practice to get the heating just right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ale treated like this will heat ALL of you - not just your head!&#xA;;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not skip carbonation. It is very valuable to the total experience of this drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="pew" LastEditorDisplayName="pew" LastEditDate="2010-11-30T16:18:50.467" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T16:18:50.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2752" CreationDate="2010-11-30T15:59:45.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used potassium metabisulfite, the main component in campden tablets, a couple of times to stop fermentation in my cider.  Although I now use Potassium Sorbate instead to reduce the amount of sulfites.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campden tablets do not kill yeast but actually makes the environment inhospitable for the yeast.  It does this by releasing sulfur dioxide into the must which prevents bacteria from growing and also acts as a strong antioxidant.  When using it before bottling or to inhibit fermentation you need to add one tablet per gallon to get 150 ppm.  If you are using potassium metabisulfite you will need 3/4 tsp to reach 150 ppm.  You can also make a stock solution of 1/4 lb in 1 quart of water, then 1 tsp of the solution would get you 50 ppm, so 3 tsp would give you 150 ppm.  When using campden tabs of potassium metabisulfite before fermentation to kill bacteria and arrest wild yeast you will need 75 ppm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I use potassium sorbate I first cold crash the yeast to promote flocculation and then add the sorbate.  Potassium sorbate prevents the existing yeast from multiplying but doesn't stop them from fermenting.  This is why I make sure to clarify as much as possible before kegging and bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T15:59:45.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2752" CreationDate="2010-11-30T16:18:04.017" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;TinCoyote is correct, you would have to keep a keen eye on your SG readings.  It would also help to know where the beverage usually finishes so that you can stop it early.  The Campden tablets will stop fermentation and leave unfermented sugar to sweeten the beverage.  Potassium Sorbate would also keep the yeast from reproducing, something to look at if you are going to do this.  You can't use your yeast to carbonate the beverage if you halt fermentation, so if you would like the beverage carbonated, you would have to artificially carbonate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T16:18:04.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2758" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-30T17:36:54.947" Score="13" ViewCount="4383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like Newcastle, and now I would like to brew some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What class / style of beer is Newcastle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where does it get its brown color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any kits out there that would give pretty close results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T17:12:54.970" Title="What class of beer is Newcastle, and what do I need to brew my own?" Tags="|beer|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2758" CreationDate="2010-11-30T17:52:29.000" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Newcastle is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/style/74&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Northern English Brown ale&lt;/a&gt;.  It has a pale ale malt base with some caramel malts.  It also has small amounts of darker malts like chocolate to provide color and the nutty flavor.  They also use English hop varieties for bittering, flavor and aroma.  It is drier, cleaner, less fruity, and slightly hoppier than the Southern English Brown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Norther Brewer has their Nukey Brown Ale that is modeled after a Northern English Brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/nukey-brown-ale-extract-kit-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/nukey-brown-ale-extract-kit-2.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/nukey-brown-ale-all-grain-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/nukey-brown-ale-all-grain-kit.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-07-20T11:39:31.687" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T11:39:31.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2762" CreationDate="2010-11-30T19:23:41.133" Score="11" ViewCount="3860" Body="&lt;p&gt;IPAs like Bear Republic's Racer 5 and Coronado Brewing Company's Islander IPA have a distinct guava-like scent and flavor character. Is there a particular variety of hops that produces this, or is it a yeast or some more complex combination?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2017-12-20T14:30:52.663" Title="What hops provide the guava-like taste of some IPAs?" Tags="|hops|flavor|fruit|ipa|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2760" CreationDate="2010-11-30T20:29:17.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not a lot of information about the Islander IPA but Bear Republic uses Chinook, Cascade, Columbus and Centennial.  My guess is that what you are associating with guava is the citrus/fruity character of Centennial and Cascade, although I'm sure there is a combination of all four.  The aroma and flavor of centennial reminds me if mandarin oranges in beers like Bell's Two Hearted.  The Chinook and Columbus will add some piney notes along with some citrus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T20:29:17.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2760" CreationDate="2010-11-30T20:31:22.437" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're tasting is the distinct flavor of west-coast hops.  Most people liken it to a citrus, grapefruit, or sometimes orange peel aroma and flavor.  You might be getting guava from the combination of tangy hops and a sweet, sugar-cookie base from the malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racer 5 uses Centennial, Chinook, Cascade, and Columbus hops.  I've heard that Islander IPA uses Centennial Hops, among others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amarillo and Cascade are generally regarded as having the most citrus-like flavors.  To a lesser extent, Simcoe, Summit, and Chinook will have those qualities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you'll find that brewing with any of the above, particularly Cascade or Columbus, and use heavy doses of late boil hops, along with some dry hopping, your beers will have the same nose and taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T20:31:22.437" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2769" CreationDate="2010-12-01T08:49:52.690" Score="2" ViewCount="6927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to create my own sparkling apple cider that's like the kind bought from the supermarket like Martinelli's sparkling cider as a cheaper alternative. I tried mixing apple cider and club soda together half and half after googling for this. But I find this approach tends to 'water down' the taste of it compared to the real one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way to go about approximating the real thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit1: As I don't have any equipment atm for brewing beer or wine, I'm looking for something that allows me to do this with the 'typical' tools one would find in a home kitchen. This is also non-alcoholic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit2: I'm not really familiar with brewing in general so some of the ideas and techniques might require more explaining for me to fully understand. Thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="733" LastEditorUserId="733" LastEditDate="2010-12-01T22:23:23.053" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T12:25:06.053" Title="Best way to make sparkling cider that approximates store bought ones?" Tags="|carbonation|cider|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2652" CreationDate="2010-12-01T11:53:19.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year before christmas, I made a spiced beer inspired by the Norwegian &quot;gløgg&quot; (similar to German Glühwein), a type of mulled wine. I only tried heating it up once, and it was simply awful — it was way to dry, too bitter, and the alcohol was too pronounced. If I were to make this again, I'd make it a lot sweeter, use less hops, and maybe use even more spices (like cloves, cinnamon, stare anise etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T11:53:19.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2763" CreationDate="2010-12-01T12:51:11.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a gallon of quality preservative free cider and carbonate it.  Carbonation can either occur in a keg or with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/18250/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carbonator cap&lt;/a&gt; in a 2L PET bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that you were meaning non alcoholic cider because you are mixing apple cider with club soda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean hard cider its only slightly different.  Ferment the cider as normal.  When done put it in bottles with priming sugar at the rate of 1.1oz per gallon of finished cider. (this assumes the cider is at 65F when done)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems pretty simple, but maybe I am missing something in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T12:51:11.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2768" CreationDate="2010-12-01T12:54:58.453" Score="25" ViewCount="22226" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is cold crashing?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When is it done?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How long does it take?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Best temperature to make it happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="17594" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T21:15:18.507" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T21:15:18.507" Title="What is cold crashing?" Tags="|conditioning|cold-crash|clarification|packaging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2766" CreationDate="2010-12-01T13:54:53.453" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold crashing is a technique to get the yeast to flocculate (settle to the bottom of the fermenter).  This is generally done to get clearer beer (or wine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be done when fermentation is complete, since there will be very little (if any) fermentation activity afterwards.  This is because you are effectively removing most of the yeast from the beer.  This is not a reliable way to stabilize the beer, though, so I would not recommend thinking of it for that.  You should still assume that there is active yeast in the beer, and if you were to add more fermentable sugars to the beer (e.g. to backsweeten or to prime it for bottle conditioning), fermentation may restart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process takes at least a couple of weeks, though the longer you do it, the more effective it will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regular refrigerator temperatures (in the 30s F) should work pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T13:54:53.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2766" CreationDate="2010-12-01T16:01:24.687" Score="20" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Cold Crashing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why It's Done&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To allow yeast and other matter to settle out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To improve flavor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To precipitate chill haze&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To help prevent oxidation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When It's Done&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After fermentation has finished&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Usually also after diacetyl rest&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you crash the beer too early, the yeast will become inactive (below 40°F) and won't reabsorb fermentation byproducts like diacetyl.  Additionally, if you crash while the yeast are still finishing fermentation, they will excrete more ester compounds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cooling Rate and Time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traditional lagering uses a rate of cooling between 1°F and 2°F per day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The beer is then racked into a closed lagering tank for carbonation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If fermentation is finished, and the yeast have had time to reabsorb any off-flavors, you can crash much more quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Several weeks is typical, although each batch can vary.  Stronger beers tend to need more time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature Ranges&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast activity continues above 40°F, so if yeast action is required, a rest period in the 50°F - 55°F range is recommended.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If no yeast activity is necessary, temperatures can be brought down to near-freezing.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The actual temperature chosen will often depend on equipment limitations.  For instance, if your temperature controller has a variance of 5°F, you wouldn't want the temperature setpoint to be 34°F, as the beer may freeze.  Likewise, many homebrewers don't have dedicated equipment to achieve these temperatures, but may have a cool basement where cold conditioning can take place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T16:01:24.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2763" CreationDate="2010-12-01T16:08:59.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast Carbonation Method&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that I'm advocating using baker's yeast like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/ginger-ale-recipe/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alton is&lt;/a&gt;, but his method sounds logical to me.  Here are a few tweaks I made to his recipe to make it more shelf stable (his will just keep fermenting since the yeast is still alive):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 Gallon Batch of Sparkling Cider&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 2-liter soda bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottling bucket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 gallons of your juice of choice (preferably preservative free)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 packet of Nottingham ale yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;enough bottles for finished product (either beer, champaign, or sparkling cider bottles, but not wine bottles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pour the juice into the bottling bucket and combine with the yeast, giving a good shake or vigorous stir to oxygenate.  Then pour into soda bottles and wait 24-48 hours, or until bottles are well carbonated (the bottle should have about as much give as a new 2-liter of soda).  When a 2-liter is sufficiently carbonated to your liking, bottle it and wait ~ an hour to compensate for lost carbonation.  Then submerge bottles in a pot of boiling water (be sure the pot has a false bottom of some sort) and let boil for 15 minutes to kill off yeast and stop fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I'm not sure on is how the boiling will affect the flavor.  I believe there are additives used in wine making (like Potassium Sorbate) that can kill off the yeast, so perhaps those can be used instead.  This will be a little alcoholic, but not very much since you'll be stopping the fermentation early on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to all of the bottling equipment, just go the Alton Brown method, but using your juice of choice (preferably preservative free) a packet of Nottingham ale yeast, instead of the ingredients he listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-12-01T19:38:27.533" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T19:38:27.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2773" CreationDate="2010-12-01T16:41:37.053" Score="4" ViewCount="1079" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the mead I made six weeks ago did not taste great when I moved it into secondary. Plenty of solvent notes.  I have big plans for lager season and want that secondary back. I'm planning on force carbonating for a sparkling mead. Can I do so, then put it in bottles for the rest of its conditioning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T19:15:50.500" Title="Mead is taking up space in my carboys. When can I bottle it?" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2783" CreationDate="2010-12-01T17:03:09.217" Score="4" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently brewing in the limbo between extract and all grain.  I plan to each batch (about 2 or 3 batches a year for me) buy a significant piece of equipment to get me closer to all-grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still need a good propane burner, a full-size brew kettle, and the cooler-setup for my setup, but I'm not sure in which order to buy them, and since I haven't won the lottery, I can't buy it all in one go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a smart way to upgrade these 3 pieces of equipment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T20:27:57.893" Title="What's the next item, burner, big brew kettle, or AGS?" Tags="|mash-tun|burner|brewpot|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2771" CreationDate="2010-12-01T17:11:40.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you buy the cooler (mash tun) first, you can start smaller-batches of all grain now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy the full-size kettle now, you can use it right away in your existing batches even if you don't do a full boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get your burner now, well, you can use it right away, I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also probably find both the kettle and burner for a cheaper price. I bought a large (10 gallon, stainless steel) turkey fryer combo at Sam's Club a number of years ago for less than a hundred bucks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T17:11:40.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2770" CreationDate="2010-12-01T17:14:26.480" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can transfer the mead from secondary into a keg for extended conditioning.  In my experience it is better to bulk condition, then any adjustment that may need to be made can be done before bottling.  These things would include stabilizing, back sweetening, adding acid, etc.  If you bottle and later realize that you should have added some sweetness you will have to open every bottle to achieve this.&#xA;This is something I learned from talking with Ken Schramm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T17:14:26.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2771" CreationDate="2010-12-01T17:21:02.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that you would get immediate use out of the burner and would probably invest in that first.  You will need an 8+ gallon pot for all grain and this may be too big to use effectively on your stove but would be a good investment after the burner.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cooler would be the last piece of the puzzle.  Although you should keep your eye open for close out or clearance items that you can pick up cheap when they are out of season.  You can always add the bulk head fittings and manifold at a later date.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T17:21:02.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2796" CreationDate="2010-12-01T18:00:19.053" Score="8" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to store wine bottles for several years, but I live in a hot city and don't have any cellar to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other alternatives can I use to store the wine in a good environment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T00:50:17.753" Title="How to store wine in hot city?" Tags="|storage|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2771" CreationDate="2010-12-01T18:15:03.353" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say get the brew kettle.  You can use it on your stove (I hardly ever use the propane burner).  You can't do partial boils going all grain, so you'd have to do little batches, which is annoying since all-grain takes a bit longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's just after thanksgiving, I bet you could find a good deal on a turkey fryer, they come with both the brew kettle and burner.  I got mine for $60 at home depot and it wasn't even on sale.  Aluminum is fine for a kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T18:15:03.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2775" CreationDate="2010-12-01T18:16:03.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could get a cheap table-top wine fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T18:16:03.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2763" CreationDate="2010-12-01T18:24:15.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Martinelli's is just force carbonated apple juice, AFAIK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T18:24:15.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2831" CreationDate="2010-12-01T18:39:17.560" Score="8" ViewCount="776" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got my second batch of homebrew fermenting, and in just two batches I've learned a lot the hard way (messed up batch priming, possibly under-aerated the wort, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What steps are critical to any batch of homebrew regardless of recipe, equipment, or approach (extract, all-grain, etc)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a good partial answer in another question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2637/shaking-vs-not-shaking/2639#2639&quot;&gt;Shaking vs not shaking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;EDIT: As far as a best practice, I would SAPS it :D (FYI, I made that acronym up...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Starter - Create a starter to get the&#xA;  cell count high enough -&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Aerate - Before pitching, use one of&#xA;  the many available methods to aerate&#xA;  the wort -&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-2.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pitch - When the starter is ready and&#xA;  the wort is aerated, put the yeast&#xA;  into the wort in the primary vessel -&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-6.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-6.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Suffocate - Do anything possible not&#xA;  to introduce oxygen after this point -&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-3.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is not recommended to perturb the&#xA;  beer between when fermentation starts&#xA;  and kegging/bottling because you run a&#xA;  strong risk of coming into too much&#xA;  contact with oxygen. Carefully racking&#xA;  to secondary with minimal oxygen&#xA;  exposure will leave you with plenty of&#xA;  yeast for carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Please see Why do you aerate wort at&#xA;  first and try to keep oxygen out&#xA;  later? for why oxygen is not good for&#xA;  wort/beer once fermentation has begun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T22:23:47.510" Title="Critical Steps to follow for any homebrew beer recipe or process" Tags="|beer|techniques|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2779" CreationDate="2010-12-01T18:54:56.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a pretty broad question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to pick the one critical variable that's easiest to screw up, and has the biggest effect on the final beer, I would say it's fermentation temperature.  Fermenting too hot, too cold, or quickly changing the temperature during the first 72 hours of fermentation will have drastic effects on your beer.  While it does seem to be the easiest thing to blow, luckily, it's also fairly easy to control, if you're careful and resourceful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, I'd say sanitation is key.  It's cliche, but true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other important aspects are hitting your target gravity (which is more complicated in all-grain), pitching the right volume of healthy yeast, adequate aeration, and proper carbonation (either with priming sugar or proper regulator settings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T18:54:56.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2779" CreationDate="2010-12-01T19:05:56.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;99% of the time secondary is completely unnecessary.  It carries a very small risk of harming the beer, so why bother?  And I completely agree that fermentation temp and sanitation are about the 2 most critical aspects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T19:05:56.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2779" CreationDate="2010-12-01T19:37:37.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the most critical step is making sure you pitch a enough healthy yeast for the gravity of beer you brewing.  If you have a large population of healthy yeast in your wort that can make up for other process shortfalls like under aeration, low fermentation temperature, and even less than perfect sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not to say you should not focus on the other steps like fermentation control, wort aeration, sanitation, and wort chilling but the yeast is the workhorse.  The yeast affect the outcome of a beer more than any other ingredient or process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T19:37:37.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2771" CreationDate="2010-12-01T20:27:57.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you should check out this post here on &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1617/wiki-improving-your-brewing-significantly&quot;&gt;Improving your brewing significantly&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, IMO:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Full size Brew Pot&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Burner&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Temp Contol&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yeast starters&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cooler&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T20:27:57.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2787" CreationDate="2010-12-01T21:46:44.530" Score="8" ViewCount="1748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a refractometer to determine gravities. I am aware of course that values measured need to be corrected depending on OG of the fermenting batch. What I don't know is, what kind of sugars am I measuring. Am I only measuring fermentable sugars or also non-fermentables, i.e. should the measured final gravity of a malty beer be higher than the one of a really dry beer? Or is the measured final gravity only dependent on the yeast/attenuation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="716" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T22:19:09.867" Title="Refractometer - what exactly can it measure?" Tags="|specific-gravity|refractometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2788" CreationDate="2010-12-01T21:54:22.117" Score="1" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1832/should-i-ferment-a-new-batch-directly-on-the-yeast-cake-generated-by-the-previous&quot;&gt;pouring down on the yeast cake of a prior batch&lt;/a&gt; my standard way of making big beers.  Now I'm moving into lagers and I want to know if there's any difference. Lagers have a much higher recommended pitching rate, so I'd assume that pouring down is a good idea as long as trub doesn't become an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T14:28:09.753" Title="Is pouring down on a lager yeast cake any different from pouring down on an ale yeast cake?" Tags="|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2784" CreationDate="2010-12-01T22:18:43.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The refractometer measures the sugar concentration of a particular liquid.  It will register both complex and simple sugars.  Once fermentation begins the presence of alcohol distorts the refraction thus requiring you to use a conversion chart or calculator to determine the remaining sugar.  To do this you will need to know the original gravity.&#xA;The measured final gravity is just the remaining unfermented sugars still in solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the calculator that I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://brew.stderr.net/refractometer.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brew.stderr.net/refractometer.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T22:18:43.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2784" CreationDate="2010-12-01T22:19:09.867" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A refractometer works on the principle that a sugar solution has a different index of refraction than water, thus the concentration of a sugar solution can be determined with the instrument.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the relatively similar indices of various sugars, it will measure all sugars, as well as other non-fermentables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because ethanol has a very different refractive index than sugar, a refractometer cannot directly be used to measure a post-fermentation beer.  As you mentioned, the value read by the refractometer must be adjusted, as in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/720/alternatives-to-a-hydrometer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, a maltier beer will read higher than a dry beer, both before and after compensation, assuming they have the same concentration of alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T22:19:09.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2785" CreationDate="2010-12-01T22:22:28.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pitch rate for lagers is generally twice that of an ale.  However, pitching onto a used yeast cake generally results in overpitching by a factor of around 100.  Overpitching by this amount is never recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, it does make beer, and works for both ales and lagers with the same effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-12-01T22:40:01.683" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T22:40:01.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2790" CreationDate="2010-12-02T01:57:29.537" Score="4" ViewCount="1108" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do those N2 widgets work in cans of beers like guineas, tetleys and Old Speckled Hen?&#xA;Is the N2 in the widget and released when the can opens, or is the N2 in the beer and the widget helps mix and froth the whole thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T02:45:19.730" Title="Nitrogen Widgets in canned beer" Tags="|carbonation|packaging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-09-27T19:42:22.213" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2789" CreationDate="2010-12-02T02:45:19.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Widget_(beer)#Method&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Widget_(beer)#Method&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the can is opened, the pressure&#xA;  in the can quickly drops, causing the&#xA;  pressurised gas and beer inside the&#xA;  widget to jet out from the hole. This&#xA;  agitation on the surrounding beer&#xA;  causes a chain reaction of bubble&#xA;  formation throughout the beer. The&#xA;  result, when the can is then poured&#xA;  out, is a surging mixture in the glass&#xA;  of very small gas bubbles and liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...so, if I understand correctly, the widget contains liquid nitrogen when bottled.  After bottling the widget raises in temperature and pressurizes to match the pressure of the can.  When the can is opened the can drops in pressure and the nitrogen spews out of the widget, stirring the beer into a nice creamy head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T02:45:19.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2793" CreationDate="2010-12-02T02:49:53.370" Score="2" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my first Irish Stout on Oct 22. I used the Nitro-Powered Stout recipe that Brian Smith has on his BeerSmith website. The only changes I made to the recipe is I replaced the Ultra hops with Saaz as my LHBS didn't have any Ultra, and I opted not to include the Gypsum since I don't know the composition of my tap water. The recipe calls for 6 lb of Dark DME and 1 lb of roasted barley.  I steeped the barley for 30 minutes at 156 degrees F, then added the dME and boiled for 45 minutes. Everything went fine, the wort seemed like it would give me a fantastic Stout. Once through the primary for 7 days, secondary for another 7, then bottled for several weeks, it has this very strong taste of what has to be the roasted barley. I feel like if I strained it through a tea towel, there would be a film of barley there. The only thing I did different with steeping the grains than I've done before was to use cheesecloth tied up instead of an official grain sock or nylon bag. There was no leakage and it stayed tied the whole time. Any ideas on what could cause this, or is this normal for a homebrew dry stout? (I may have answered my own question once I remembered I used cheesecloth as a grainbag, is it possible it's not as fine of a mesh and there actually is a haze of barley floating in this brew?) Thanks for your answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="739" LastEditorUserId="101" LastEditDate="2010-12-04T05:19:17.343" LastActivityDate="2010-12-04T05:19:17.343" Title="Dry Irish Stout Tastes very much like grain" Tags="|stout|steeping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2690" CreationDate="2010-12-02T05:13:07.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The whisk is fine. I've heard of using a collander before. All I do is dump the wort straight into the fermenter then repeat dumping water into it until filled enough. Ive been fine with it. Sometimes I'll whisk or shake if I don't feel it's enough. I typically stand by observing if bubbles seem to float in and on top of the beer then quickly pitch and seal up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T05:13:07.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2791" CreationDate="2010-12-02T05:48:14.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I thought I'd toss in my ideas... First, the recipe, for those who didn't want to Google it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.00 lb Dark Dry Extract   (17.5 SRM)        Dry Extract      85.71 %&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1.00 lb Roasted Barley     (300.0 SRM)      Grain              14.29 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.00 oz Ultra Hops           [4.20 %]          (45 min)         22.1 IBU&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.00 tbsp   Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Boil 45.0 min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry Ale Yeast (Nottingham)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hops might play a slight part in that substituting Saaz for Ultra should give you a spicier flavor, and the sharpness might further underscore the harshness of the grain bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gypsum only accentuates the hop bitterness, so not adding gypsum doesn't sound like a likely culprit for the graininess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the substitution of cloth for a grain sock shouldn't make any difference.  It lets the same compounds through.  And even if there were a difference, most anything that you could let through would either be eliminated in the boil or settle out in secondary.  Assuming you didn't do something like squeeze the bag and pull tannins, but we'll assume that's not that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I doubt any of those things are the problem.  I have heard of flavor problems, though, with stouts made with only middle-colored and dark malts.  I would guess that the attributes about the beer that you dislike stem from the use of only dark DME and roasted barley.  Roasted barley will add a distinct nuttiness, which may be part of what you're tasting.  That, combined with a base of biscuity, dark, DME are probably responsible for the grainy flavors you're getting.  Most stout recipes build upon base malts, I think typically around 50-70% English pale malt.  Can anyone verify that &quot;Designing Great Beers&quot; or &quot;Brewing Classic Styles&quot; shows that stouts should start with a strong platform of pale malts, rather than dark malt? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I can't think of a good way to verify that's the problem aside from convincing one of your fellow homebrewers to make the same recipe, using their own methods (and preferably without the substitutions you made), and see if you still dislike the taste. That would almost certainly narrow it down to your distaste for the recipe itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd encourage anyone else who's read this far to contribute their thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-12-02T06:01:27.907" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T06:01:27.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2779" CreationDate="2010-12-02T08:24:01.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of general points for the aspiring home brewer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Document everything you do when brewing&lt;/strong&gt; — This is the first step of the way towards being able to successfully reproduce a brew. Take measurements during the entire process, and write down all weights, volumes, temperatures and gravities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Follow a recipe&lt;/strong&gt; — Know before you start brewing how much you will use of each ingredient, mash temperature and time, boil time, desired OG etc. Document any deviations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get to know your equipment&lt;/strong&gt; — By documenting rigorously, after a few brews you will have enough data to know how much water to use, how to best keep a desired mash temperature, your mash efficiency, evaporation rate etc. Then you will be able to &lt;strong&gt;achieve your desired result every time.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do all this, then congratulations, you are a skilled home brewer and you will be able to &lt;strong&gt;make the same beer twice.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T08:24:01.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2791" CreationDate="2010-12-02T12:43:26.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem in my opinion is the heavy usage of Roasted Barley with the use of dark DME.  The dark DME has roasted malts in it already.  While it is typical for a Dry stout to use up to 1# of Roasted Barley, in this recipe you've added more than that because the DME brought some to the party.  When using colored malts, I tend to go easy on the specialty grains.  The use of specialty grains with colored extracts is good for &quot;freshening&quot; the flavor, but you don't need to use them to the same extent you would if you were using just a simple base malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you sub in the pale-est extract you can find you'll still need to build back some of the flavors that dark DME has; a little crystal malt and the roasted barley as a start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why you'll find some brewers recommending using just the palest extract you can find to build all your recipes from.  You really have no idea what's in dark or amber or golden extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a more technical note, the addition of 1# of Roasted Barley to dark DME may have also lowered your pH a bit more than expected and that is bringing a more grainy and astringent flavor out of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T12:43:26.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2775" CreationDate="2010-12-02T12:55:31.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How hot are we talking?&#xA;A cool closet on an inside wall of the house should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think the only real answer to this is a dedicated wine fridge with finer temp control.  One that you can set to a cellar type temp.  You don't want to store your red wine as cold as a normal fridge obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T12:55:31.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2770" CreationDate="2010-12-02T19:15:50.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mead will probably take on the order of a year to be ready.   If you're strapped for aging space, you can probably dose it with campden to kill off any remaining yeast, and then force carbonate and finish the rest of the aging in bottles.   As stated above, bulk aging is better if you're expecting to need to make any flavor adjustments to it, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T19:15:50.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2800" CreationDate="2010-12-02T19:56:47.413" Score="6" ViewCount="2443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering brewing an Amber ale with a bit of ginger in it, but I don't know whether I should treat it more like a spice and steep/boil it, or more like fruit, and rack onto the ginger for a week or two of secondary fermentation.    Should I use a combination of the two?   What has worked for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T20:25:01.930" Title="When to add fresh ginger?" Tags="|techniques|spices|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2798" CreationDate="2010-12-02T20:08:22.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I add fresh ginger the last 5 min. of the boil.  I've been pleased with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T20:08:22.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2798" CreationDate="2010-12-02T20:19:36.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ginger works a little bit like hops - if you boil it longer, it adds a different spiciness than if you add it at flameout or in secondary.  Boil a couple ounces of ginger on the stove and you can see what I mean.  The aromatics tend to leave, but there is a residual heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had success by adding it in stages as if it were a hop - a big dose early, and smaller additions later in the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T20:19:36.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-02T20:43:03.553" Score="6" ViewCount="2070" Body="&lt;p&gt;BrewDog claims to have made a 55% ABV &quot;beer&quot; which they call The End of History. They have other high ABV &quot;beers:&quot; Tactical Nuclear Penguin is 32% ABV and Sink the Bismark! is 41% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, each of these beers starts with a normal recipe for a high ABV (imperial) beer, but this can only get you so far. The high ABV is obtained by freezing the beer, scraping off the ice, and repeating. The result is a high alcohol content liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, I would call beer that has been processed in this way &quot;ice beer,&quot; but I'm not sure the label applies at this extreme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: Is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewdog.com/blog-article.php?id=341&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The End of History&lt;/a&gt; beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: This should be considered separately from the question &quot;Is beer the end of history?&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="609" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T20:40:19.477" Title="Is 55% ABV &quot;beer&quot; actually beer?" Tags="|beer-styles|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2801" CreationDate="2010-12-02T20:58:57.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ice-Distilled Malt Beverage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T20:58:57.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2801" CreationDate="2010-12-02T21:27:34.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe it should be considered a beer, but this opens the window of 'where do we draw the line?'.  At what percentage would we switch from beer to something else?  If barley wines have there own title, &quot;beers&quot; like this definitely should have a different name.  But under the BJCP guidlines for a barley wine, many Imperial or high gravity beers could fit in with the barley wines, only we don't consider them as such.  I'm all for fun and experimentation, but I think that these beverages should be considered something other than beer, they are higher in alcohol content than some hard alcohol (liquor) beverages.  Great question though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T21:27:34.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2801" CreationDate="2010-12-02T21:29:16.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is actually a popular argument.  Consensus is that fractional freezing still makes it a beer.  Bud Ice, Miller Icehouse, and Natural Ice are all examples of ice beers, made the same way, and sold as beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no standard definition of beer that limits the strength, so I see no reason why it's not beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T21:29:16.447" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2807" CreationDate="2010-12-02T21:45:58.813" Score="6" ViewCount="4444" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reeds Ginger Beer is one of my favorite non-alcoholic fizzy-drinks... just curious if anyone has a recipe for brewing something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what's the brewing process like?  Similar to beer, or drastically different?  Would a regular homebrew kit (carboy, bottling setup, etc) suffice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T14:05:46.663" Title="Ginger Beer recipe" Tags="|recipe|soda|ginger|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2801" CreationDate="2010-12-02T21:55:19.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;BJCP guidelines are not the end-all, be-all.  Basically, they're good for judging beer at comps and that's about it.  I definitely would consider your examples to be beer if they started out as a fermented grain beverage.  Whether or not I'd want to drink one is an entirely different matter!  AFAIK, Bud Ice and the like are not freeze concentrated...they are lowered to freezing temps for filtering purposes, but I don't believe any water is intentionally removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T21:55:19.413" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2805" CreationDate="2010-12-02T22:08:05.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a recipe on &lt;a href=&quot;http://thehowzone.com/how/making_ginger_beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, geared towards someone without brewing experience, so it should be a breeze for a homebrewer.  I haven't personally tried it though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a shorter, simpler brewing process that that of beer. You could make it with a homebrew equipment kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For carbonation, if you follow their recipe, you run the risk of making bottle bombs.  Most recipes I've seen recommend using plastic bottles, transferring to a fridge when the carbonation is right, and drinking the soda within a few weeks before it carbonates further.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A safer, quicker, and more reliable method would be force carbonation with a keg system, but that will obviously have a higher equipment cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T22:08:05.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2801" CreationDate="2010-12-03T00:03:46.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO it's still beer.  However, I don't think distilled beer but shouldn't be considered in the same category as only yeast fermented for ABV bragging rights.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="113" LastEditDate="2010-12-03T00:36:27.907" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T00:36:27.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2758" CreationDate="2010-12-03T02:28:48.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Northern or Newcastle Brown as defined by the AHA&#xA;Gravity: 1.045 - 0.050&#xA;IBU: 15 - 25&#xA;deep amber to reddish brown&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crystal Malt plays a big role in the color (typical English grain bill runs 15% of crystal and 2-3% of chocolate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get yourself a copy of &quot;Designing Great Beers&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Designing-Great-Beers-Ultimate-Brewing/dp/0937381500&lt;/a&gt;.   Its got an outstanding section on Milds and Brown Ales, complete with grain bills.  Granted it sounds like your shooting for extract, bu the history section alone with help with understanding your recipe formulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="745" LastEditorUserId="745" LastEditDate="2010-12-04T16:57:43.087" LastActivityDate="2010-12-04T16:57:43.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="268" CreationDate="2010-12-03T02:33:18.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grind your coffee beans sometime during your boil.  The later in the boil the better. Place the grinds into a muslin bag.   When your boil is complete and the wort drops under 210F, hang the muslin bag of grind into the hot wort.  I usually go for around 5-10 minutes.  Remove muslin bag and start your chill.  You definitely do NOT want to put the coffee in during the boil as it will put in all the acids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="745" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T02:33:18.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="235" CreationDate="2010-12-03T02:36:07.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used fresh cut basil (a whole bouquet with flowers) at the end of the boil.   I expected the hot flavor of the basil to come though (like eating a basil leaf).  Instead I got a wonderful Christmasy flavor like the anchor steam Christmas beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="745" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T02:36:07.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2836" CreationDate="2010-12-03T02:41:19.500" Score="6" ViewCount="1054" Body="&lt;p&gt;My surflow Brewbuddy pump has had a good long life and is ready for its replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What hot liquor pumps are recommended?&#xA;features required:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjustable flow rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;handles boiling liquids&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy to clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;needs little to no priming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="745" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T02:05:47.250" Title="Best hot liquor pumps" Tags="|pump|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2825" CreationDate="2010-12-03T02:50:07.513" Score="10" ViewCount="25347" Body="&lt;p&gt;In California is it legal to build and operate a still for the distillation of homebrew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="745" LastEditorUserId="101" LastEditDate="2010-12-03T19:22:14.840" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T01:38:16.420" Title="Distillation legality" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2813" CreationDate="2010-12-03T03:48:00.560" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is not legal anywhere in the United States to distill alcohol, unless you have a license.  It is not practical for individuals to get licenses for beverage alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, I hear it is relatively easy to get a home-distillation license for producing ethanol fuel.  It would be illegal for you to consume that fuel, and any of it that leaves your premises must be denatured (made unfit to drink).  Fuel ethanol is most commonly denatured with gasoline, since most ethanol-burning vehicles consume a mixture of up to 85% ethanol, and 15% gasoline (this is the E-85 mixture).  This is something I researched in great depth a few years ago, when gas prices started climbing, and I had a pickup truck that could run on E-85.  Being in New England at the time, there was not a viable fermentable source that would make economic sense to make my own fuel, so I abandoned the idea, and bought a hybrid car instead.  But, I digress....alternative fuels are not really on-topic for this site....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T03:48:00.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2813" CreationDate="2010-12-03T04:22:10.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you can't legally use a still for distilling your homebrew, you could 'freeze distill' it. Technically it's concentration, not distillation, but gives you a nice boost in ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fractional_freezing#Freeze_distillation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fractional_freezing#Freeze_distillation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="746" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T04:22:10.743" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-03T11:54:23.183" Score="7" ViewCount="30876" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often produce an excess of homebrew. Would it be legal to sell it in the UK, I would only be selling a maximum of 50 pints / year and my charge would really only cover the cost of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I'd charge a £2 deposit for the bottle and this is refunded if they bring it back. Is this legal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="101" LastEditDate="2010-12-04T04:51:51.690" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T16:43:26.667" Title="Can I sell my Homebrew in the UK" Tags="|cost|legal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2812" CreationDate="2010-12-03T15:54:49.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a March 809 HS and I love it.  You install a ball valve on the out put to control flow rate.  While it's not self priming, it requires very little height differential to get it primed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T15:54:49.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="268" CreationDate="2010-12-03T15:58:46.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 2 methods....you can &quot;dry bean&quot; the beer in secondary using 4-8 poz. of coarsely cracked beans.  That produces great aroma and a bit of flavor.  For more coffee flavor, I add strong coffee at bottling or kegging time to taste.  That's much easier to control than additions to the kettle or secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T15:58:46.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2822" CreationDate="2010-12-03T16:06:07.823" Score="7" ViewCount="1185" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a follow-up to a couple of other questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2725/how-to-properly-oxygenate-wort&quot;&gt;How to Properly Oxygenate Wort&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2690/wort-aeration-on-a-budget&quot;&gt;Wort aeration on a budget&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you measure oxygenation of wort?  What methods are available for a beginner brewer (low-cost), or a more seasoned veteran?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T01:18:47.463" Title="How to measure wort oxygenation" Tags="|equipment|aeration|oxygenation|measurements|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2821" CreationDate="2010-12-03T17:57:44.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a relatively inexpensive procedure, known as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecy.wa.gov/programs/wq/plants/management/joysmanual/4oxygen.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Winkler method&lt;/a&gt;, that's used by ecologists to measure the oxygen concentration in streams and ponds.  It relies on titration using sodium thiosulfate (among other chemicals).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this test works on wort, however, due to wort chemistry.  At the very least, titration would be difficult with any beer darker than a pale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best method is to use a dissolved oxygen (DO) meter.  Good DO meters cost around $1000, although I've seen a few handheld units online in the $300 - $500 range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not very common practice to measure wort oxygenation, sadly.  Most microbreweries don't even invest in this equipment, although more recently, the trend is changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-12-03T18:06:05.183" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T18:06:05.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2829" CreationDate="2010-12-03T19:03:36.370" Score="11" ViewCount="845" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read descriptions of wines (and lately more beers) where the tasting notes say things like &quot;cherries, floral&quot;, etc.  I've never tasted any of this when I drink/taste the corresponding beer/wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I train my palate to better taste beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T10:46:04.333" Title="How do I improve my palate?" Tags="|taste|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2823" CreationDate="2010-12-03T19:19:42.743" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found nothing works better than a Dr. Beer (doctored beer) type seminar, where you have several participants (hopefully some more experienced) tasting a fairly neutral beer with specific flavors added to allow the participants to experience the single flavor, identify it and associate a name/description with it and understand how and why it might come about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, though not as efficient, is to steward or be a novice judge at a beer/homebrew competition. This will allow you to sample beers with others who have a (hopefully) more experienced palate and become familiar with the terms as well as the flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these can come from taking a BJCP study class, which tend to be common before BJCP exams in a given area and are often associated with homebrew clubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, I'd add that more often than not, you are not so much improving your palate as you are getting better at communicating what it is that you already taste, though there is certainly a level of heightened introspection that happens through the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T19:19:42.743" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2813" CreationDate="2010-12-03T19:53:06.157" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is not legal to distill alcohol in the US without a license.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to obtain a license for small batch production. See the discussion forums on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://distilling.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Distilling Institute&lt;/a&gt; web site for information on the steps required to license a microdistillery, from people who have done it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concensus of opinion seems to be: it's not difficult to get the federal license even for small production.  The federal license is basically a permission to pay taxes, and what &quot;revenuer&quot; would refuse a new source of revenue, no matter how small?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing seems to be to know the application process and to not rely on government web sites for information, since most of them basically say &quot;Go away&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're more likely to have difficulty getting local building permits to build or retrofit an existing structure to house the distillery.  Federal regs require that the still and fluid processing and storage must reside in a structure that is not a place of habitation - a free standing garage or shed might work, but not a basement or attached garage or house kitchen.  The structure must also be secured with locks on doors and windows to prevent breakins and theft of inventory or equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since alcohol is classified as highly flamable vapor and alcohol flame is nearly invisible, your local fire marshal may be reluctant to sign off on a building or use permit if they are not familiar with fire safety requirements and practices for distilleries.  The fire marshall is thinking of the safety of their staff should they be called out to your site in an emergency.  The ADI forum can help in this area, too - they can offer up knowledgeable fire and other code inspectors for your local inspectors to talk to, which in many cases can help move things along.  Having inspectors talk to each other usually works better than trying to educate the local inspector yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The core members of ADI claim to be responsible for getting the American microbrewery movement started in the 1980's and 90's.  They are now working towards starting a microdistillery / artisan distillery movement in much the same fashion.  Though I have not begun distilling, I have found the information on ADI credible, educational and extremely valuable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastEditorUserId="101" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T01:38:16.420" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T01:38:16.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="109" CreationDate="2010-12-03T20:11:55.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always had problems with air bleeding in between hose and racking cane. Nice way to get oxidation. I used to always wrap electrical tape around it tight - but that's a PITA. I then tried a standard hose-clamp like the one above and couldn't get a good seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now going to try one of these little guys&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0015HOOSQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Snapper-Ratchet-Closure-Nominal-351--394/dp/B0015HOOSQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T20:11:55.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2801" CreationDate="2010-12-03T20:24:53.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say it is still beer. Though quite an extreme example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mirriam-Webster defines beer as &quot;an alcoholic beverage usually made from malted cereal grain (as barley), flavored with hops, and brewed by slow fermentation.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End of History fulfills this. It is my understanding that the beer is the highest ABV achieved by natural yeast fermentation. They created some sort of resilient yeast strain that can survive in such ridiculously high alcohol content. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes it is beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T20:24:53.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2801" CreationDate="2010-12-03T20:40:19.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel that it would be whiskey at this point.  Regardless of the method, it has been distilled.  If they kept going at it with the distillation and got up to 90%, would it still be beer then?  As far as ingredients, there have been alternative bittering agents to hops historically, and I've enjoyed a 100% wheat beer as well.  Process is what defines beer -  Mashing malted grains, and fermenting them.  Distillation doesn't doesn't come into play with that.  You'd think Everclear would hype up that they've made a 180 proof unhopped beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T20:40:19.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2823" CreationDate="2010-12-03T21:18:19.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a local homebrew club that has semi-regular meetings, they will often have tastings and such where you can hear other people describe the things that they're tasting.   A lot of it is learning to be watchful for certain smells and flavours.   You may taste them and not know it, or you may be more or less sensitive to certain flavours and scents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I smell DMS every time I'm near a co-worker, and isoamyl acetate every time another co-worker brings in his breakfast banana.   All thanks to beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T21:18:19.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2758" CreationDate="2010-12-03T21:53:31.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a Northern English Brown Ale, as Chris said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to be aware of that I have seen in a couple of clone recipes, including the one that's in BYO's special &quot;Classic Clone Recipes&quot; is that Newcastle is apparently a blend of two separately brewed beers. One is a stronger old ale, that is given a longer secondary fermentation before bottling. The other is a weaker brown ale that is brewed closer to bottling time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T21:53:31.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2779" CreationDate="2010-12-03T22:23:47.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some things I found out the hard way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Watch your temperatures! -&lt;/strong&gt; I accidentally burned a batch a bit by just having the stove cranked up for most of the time. Really when you place in your barley you want to steep, not boil, like tea. This can easily burn and get some odd tastes. Malts will immediately boil over if the temp is too high. Hops will dissipate faster if kept on high temps. When a recipe calls for boil get it just to a gentle boil, not the crazy exploding boil, more flavors will be released and maintained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast is your friend -&lt;/strong&gt; Yeast is actually very resilient and just wants to eat. Just be sure to not let it get shocked hot or cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Taste -&lt;/strong&gt; You can taste your beer before it's in the bottle! Throughout the whole process just take a little bit and give it a good taste. While some things will change throughout the process in general what you're tasting is what you're gonna get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't panic! -&lt;/strong&gt; Even if you think you've screwed something up keep going. It'll still be beer, hell it may be an awesome beer that you didn't know you were making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;side note:&lt;/em&gt; I asked the shaking question. Glad it helped you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T22:23:47.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2583" CreationDate="2010-12-03T22:25:07.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had great luck making pepper extracts with vodka and adding them shortly before bottling. Soak for a couple of days, then either pull a measured sample of homebrew or a find a similarly styled commercial beer and add measured quantities of the extract to taste.  Then just scale up to your batch size and add to the fermenter.  I did this with an imperial stout to add a slight burn to the finish and it turned out great.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user726" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T22:25:07.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="88" CreationDate="2010-12-03T22:40:47.590" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a secondary is a matter of preference for the brewer and the style of brew. While I highly recommend using a secondary it is not required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You move to secondary after primary fermentation is done. This is usually determined by taking specific gravity readings and once they've been the same for 3 days primary fermentation is considered complete (~2+ weeks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary is used to clarify the beer and allow spent yeast and other materials to settle to the bottom for clearer beer and to prevent off tastes. It is also a good time to do things such as dry hop, add oak chips, or any other aging flavor. Secondary is usually done for around 1-2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T22:40:47.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2731" CreationDate="2010-12-03T22:45:36.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the description of the yeast it sounds like you just have to give it more time. Your yeast is probably just being very active. You just need to wait for them to eat the sugars and calm down and you should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T22:45:36.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="88" CreationDate="2010-12-03T22:45:53.050" Score="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;From John Palmer in the &amp;quot;Ask the Experts&amp;quot; section of the AHA forum:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I, and Jamil and White Labs and Wyeast Labs, do not recommend racking to a secondary fermenter for ANY ale, except when conducting an actual second fermentation, such as adding fruit or souring. Racking to prevent autolysis is not necessary, and therefore the risk of oxidation is completely avoidable. Even lagers do not require racking to a second fermenter before lagering. With the right pitching rate, using fresh healthy yeast, and proper aeration of the wort prior to pitching, the fermentation of the beer will be complete within 3-8 days (bigger = longer). This time period includes the secondary or conditioning phase of fermentation when the yeast clean up acetaldehyde and diacetyl. The real purpose of lagering a beer is to use the colder temperatures to encourage the yeast to flocculate and promote the precipitation and sedimentation of microparticles and haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the new rule of thumb: don’t rack a beer to a secondary, ever, unless you are going to conduct a secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T15:11:17.963" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2812" CreationDate="2010-12-04T03:55:31.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree on the March pump.  The 809 HS is a great pump.  It is easy to build an intake and output for it to help control the flow speed.  You should also add an air bleed valve to the output side so that you can help gravity by letting the air out of your output line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to a photo of &lt;a href=&quot;http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/XS_hlLTpiC0l0bPVJ6EBZJvcTMYk_HE9gFb_wNKjZbg?feat=directlink&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my pump with plumbing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The input should be on the bottom so that gravity will pull the liquid into the pump body as best as possible.    You can see in the picture the bleed valve off to the side on the output (top).  To use it, just open the input valve all the way, open the valve on your source, and then open the bleed part way.  When you get a little bit of liquid out of the bleed, shut the bleed, switch the pump on, and slowly open the output valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nice thing about this pump is that you can leave it running all day with no liquid in it and it will not burn up.  It is just a simple magnetic impeller.  It is all boil safe and is food grade plastic.  The wet end can be rotated 90 degrees so you can orient the input and output threads any way you want (but you want it with the input on the bottom).  The dry end (motor housing) should be protected.  It is not water proof.  But a simple piece of flashing will protect it from normal splashing.  I've seen people build the pump into a tupperware container with the valves sticking through the walls of the container.  That works well too.  I also suggest a nice heavy base to mount it to.  I used a cross of 4x4.  Finally, buy a GFCI outlet adapter.  Protect yourself.  It also acts as an on/off switch (reset/test).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clean it, I just run my sanitizing fluid through it for a minute or so.  After that, I just hang it on a hook on the ceiling with the wet end down and valves open.  That way it will drain.  (I store it in my garage and I don't want water in it to freeze and bust it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A setup like this is well worth the money and time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-12-04T03:55:31.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2839" CreationDate="2010-12-04T17:59:02.560" Score="13" ViewCount="23317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recently heard of fusel alcohol in a reference that it causes headaches/hangovers.  First what is fusel alcohol, and what creates it (can I avoid it)?  Secondly, is fusel alcohol really the main culprit behind hangovers? I know I stopped making/drinking mead as it was a guaranteed hangover for me the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="745" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T14:36:51.087" Title="What is fusel alcohol, and does it cause hangovers?" Tags="|hangover|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2837" CreationDate="2010-12-04T18:43:10.887" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fusel_alcohol&quot;&gt;Fusel Alcohol&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's generally accepted that fusels are produced when fermentation temperature is not &#xA;properly controlled, or nutrients are not at the proper concentration.  Essentially, stressed yeast produce fusel alcohols.   Apparently, most people believe that fusels promote headaches, but it's not scientifically proven. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In general, fermentation conditions that promote cell growth, such as temperature, aeration, and nitrogen, result in higher levels of fusel alcohols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--Yeast, The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation: White &amp;amp; Zainasheff,  pp36-37&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2010-12-04T18:43:10.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2837" CreationDate="2010-12-04T21:23:52.123" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fusel alcohols refer to alcohols that contain more than two carbons.  Ethanol (the good stuff) is a two carbon atom molecule.  They happen naturally during all fermentations, with higher concentrations occurring when the yeast are under stress (including high temps).  Keep in mind stress is a relative term biochemically speaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fusels contribute to the severity of a hangover for certain.  However, hangovers are mostly still a function of dehydrated after consuming ethanol alone.  The fusels just amplify the effect.  Consuming too much pure ethanol will still give you a hangover, if ones hydration isn't taken care of too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-04T21:23:52.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2821" CreationDate="2010-12-04T21:26:20.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any homebrewers that are actually measuring the ppm of O2 dissolved in their wort.  The best practice is to get an O2 cylinder with a medical grade flow meter (not a pressure regulator, but a flow meter).  Then experiment with time on the meter and good results in the final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-04T21:26:20.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2823" CreationDate="2010-12-05T12:27:10.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its not so much what others taste, its what you taste.  Try putting your own words to a flavor descriptor first.  Then compare it to some one elses notes.  Maybe cherries aren't the best descriptor for your palate.  But you do taste something, so what is it?  Don't doubt your own palete and what its telling you.  Taste is so subjective.  And it takes practice too.  Go buy three different stouts and figure why they taste different.  Do this for many beer styles.  And you'll well be on your way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time you are at a beerfest, focus on a goal  Brown ales, or fruit beers or high alcohol beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to reiterate, have confidence in your palate and you'll start hearing what it has to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T12:27:10.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2823" CreationDate="2010-12-05T16:50:12.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I did that really helped develop my palate was to go buy the beers listed as classic commercial example in the BJCP guidelines.  Then I'd drink a beer while I read through the guidelines, trying to taste what was described.  That really helps you put a name to what you're tasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T16:50:12.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2010-12-05T23:17:04.597" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you guys are making it way more difficult than it need be.  I made a Sierra Nevada Pale clone.  I took one bottle of SNPA, let it sit in the fridge for a few days, then carefully decanted all but 1 inch of beer.  I then boiled two tablespoons of DME in 6 oz of water, cooled it and added to the bottle.  Added an airlock and within a few days had an active culture.  I ramped it up in a growler a few days before brew day.  Worked great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="753" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T23:17:04.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2816" CreationDate="2010-12-06T12:27:35.937" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really, selling your homebrew is not worth the hassle of licensing requirements and so on. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/2003/17/part/1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The 2003 Licensing Act&lt;/a&gt; states that the sale by retail of alcohol requires a license. &#xA;And you will certainly come under food standards trading requirements too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give your beer away to friends, and ask if they can return the bottles. Same outcome as your suggestion and with a higher feel good factor. Plus your friends will think you less of a tight wad :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T12:27:35.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2785" CreationDate="2010-12-06T20:55:03.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people make a 2 gallon batch of lager and ferment it warm, then just pour the beer off the yeast/trub directly down the sink and pitch the &quot;real&quot; lager wort on that cake. I'd say if the original batch was 5 gallons, then split the cake into thirds. Pitch on one and store the other two (after washing) in the fridge for your next lager starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T20:55:03.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2849" CreationDate="2010-12-06T21:25:56.993" Score="10" ViewCount="1582" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crystal malt is said to positively influence head retention / foam stability in the final beer. Why is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="716" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T17:43:01.603" Title="Crystal Malt - How does it influence head retention?" Tags="|foam|crystal|head-retention|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2848" CreationDate="2010-12-06T21:29:27.967" Score="4" ViewCount="1170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a stout I'm going to be bottling soon and unlike past recipes I've brewed which have called for corn sugar for priming, this calls for dry malt extract and lactose.  Typically I've dissolved my corn sugar in a small amount of sterilized (boiled) water to easily introduce it and I'm wondering if there's anything special I should do in this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-12-07T12:45:15.373" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T20:20:10.983" Title="Dissolving Malt Extract for priming" Tags="|priming|priming-sugar|lactose|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2847" CreationDate="2010-12-06T21:36:11.613" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you follow the same procedures for the malt extract and lactose that you do for the priming sugar you will be good.  The boiled water acts as a pasteurizer for the sugar and malt extract to eliminate any bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T21:36:11.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2846" CreationDate="2010-12-06T21:42:40.090" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crystal malts add both head retention and body to the beer, they do this by adding dextrines and complex proteins.  The crystal or caramel malts are produced by kilning the grains with up to 50% moisture content in the barley creating a crystalline sugar structure inside the grain's hull.  They are undermodified malt and have very little diastatic power due to the amount of moisture present in the kilning process.  They add complex sugars to the wort that are not fermentable thus producing residual sweetness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-12-07T20:14:41.437" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T20:14:41.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="997" CreationDate="2010-12-07T01:48:34.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After my latest experiment with it, I'll be sticking with dry hopping in a carboy/secondary fermentor from now on.   It was mostly a process fault, but even so, the keg will be harder to clean with all the little vegetative bits left in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I made a &quot;bag&quot; out of some cheesecloth and put my 2oz of cascade pellets in it, tossed it into the keg, and racked the beer onto it.   Unfortunately, I didn't get the bag tied very well, so now (2 weeks after I fished the bag out), every time I move the keg at all, either the plumbing gets clogged with hop bits, or my first 2 or 3 pints are muddy with hop solids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T01:48:34.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2852" CreationDate="2010-12-07T03:31:03.947" Score="3" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to brew up a Southern English Brown, using the recipe from 'Brewing Classic Styles'. For an all-grain version, the recipe just says to use a &quot;Pale English&quot; malt for the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have access to Mild Malt, Marris Otter, Floor-Malted Marris Otter and Golden Promise. Any thoughts on which would be best? I'm leaning towards the Mild, myself. But I can be swayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T02:32:08.907" Title="Base malt in a Southern English Brown?" Tags="|recipe|brown|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2851" CreationDate="2010-12-07T05:05:43.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'd go wrong with any of those four malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're trying to closely adhere to the style guidelines, Golden Promise is probably the best malt, with FMMO next, regular Maris Otter, and lastly the Mild Malt.  Because a Southern English Brown highlights the sweetness of the malt, with more subtle accents of side flavors, like caramel, toffee, and nuts, you want the sweetest, cleanest malt for this style.  The difference between Maris Otter and Golden Promise, the Scottish version of Maris Otter, is pretty minimal, but the Golden Promise has the edge on getting sweetness into the flavor and finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maris Otter will produce a nice toasty nuttiness, and the floor-malted version will be slightly more complex, but both MO malts will put too much focus on the nuttiness and pull attention from the sweetness.  I believe Maris Otter would actually be the traditional malt for a SEB, but Golden Promise is generally a good substitute for Maris Otter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, Mild Malt will give you more dextrins in your malt, which will lead to good body and mouthfeel, but again, the sweetness will be lacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, any of the malts will make a fine SEB, but Golden Promise is the best malt for the style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T05:05:43.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="525" CreationDate="2010-12-07T13:50:37.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my kettle I made a measuring rod using a length of copper pipe (Home Depot sells 3' lengths of pre-cut pipe for about $2). I used a file to mark it at 1 quart increments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When boiling, I just leave the rod in the kettle. Since it's copper, it's contributing valuable nutrients to the wort. And by staying in the boil, it's also sanitary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T13:50:37.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2846" CreationDate="2010-12-07T20:17:31.950" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IF all your other brewing practices are good, adding more dextrins can help.  But if you have yeast/fermentation issues, adding proteins won't help foam formation and retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T20:17:31.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2847" CreationDate="2010-12-07T20:20:10.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would advise against using extract for priming.  There is no advantage to doing so.  In fact, it's more hassle.  You have no idea of the fermentability of the DME, so you have no idea what level of carbonation you'll achieve.  Sugar is fast, reliable, and tasteless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T20:20:10.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-08T06:21:52.310" Score="4" ViewCount="3514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add cocoa or chocolate to a beer, but cocoa powder isn't very soluble in water.  What methods/alternatives do I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I prefer to avoid extracts, if possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't think I can find nibs at any local grocery stores.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The beer is already on secondary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T17:11:26.290" Title="How to Add Cocoa" Tags="|flavor|additives|chocolate|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2856" CreationDate="2010-12-08T10:51:33.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I was using cocoa to make hot chocolate then I would make a thick paste with the milk and then thin it down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would do the same if I wanted to add it to a beer. Either use water or take some of the beer out and do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chocolate itself is not soluble either - even if it's melted. In fact if you add water to melted chocolate you end up with a mess where the cocoa solids separate from the cocoa butters and the water in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="DanS" LastEditorDisplayName="DanS" LastEditDate="2010-12-08T11:31:56.247" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T11:31:56.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2856" CreationDate="2010-12-08T12:08:11.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding cocoa 8oz of cocoa powder to the boil has always worked for me.  While cocoa has water solubility issues, adding it to boiling water/wort helps out significantly.  There will be some sludge in the base of the kettle, but not the entire 8oz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other option is to use cocoa nibs in secondary and wait for the alcohol extraction to take place.  But cocoa powder has always worked well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Its important to note that you have cocoa powder that is fat free also.  Most premium powders are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-12-08T17:11:26.290" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T17:11:26.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2856" CreationDate="2010-12-08T12:58:42.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What if you made a chocolate tincture with cocoa and vodka, and then added that to the beer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T12:58:42.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2856" CreationDate="2010-12-08T13:52:14.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree about extracts - they taste fake.  You can buy cacao nibs online.  Might be a bit late if you want to add them now, but if you're planning for a future batch I'd do this.  Also, I don't know if there's one near you, but specialty food stores such as Sur La Table carry them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commented on brewchez's answer about my experience with cocoa powder.  If you can't get nibs in time to use in this batch, use powder.  But beware that you might have a beer that always has cocoa particles in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T13:52:14.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2816" CreationDate="2010-12-08T16:34:42.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The law says that you can't sell alcohol, but if someone asks you to do a brew and pays for the ingredients and your time/equipment it might be a different matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="DanS" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T16:34:42.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2868" CreationDate="2010-12-08T16:52:53.697" Score="12" ViewCount="8902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a Malt Extract beer with WLP060. The &quot;Attenuation&quot; range on the White Labs site says it should be in the range of 72-80%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an OG of 1.0575, and an FG of 1.0096. By my calculations the attenuation was 83% (((1.0575-1.0096)/.0575) x 100 = 83.3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) What could have contributed to the higher attenuation %?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) Is the range listed on the White Labs site more of a range to try to stay within, or, is it a stating what the yeast is typically capable of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="195" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T18:26:03.040" Title="What factors can lead to a higher attenuation?" Tags="|fermentation|attenuation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2758" CreationDate="2010-12-08T16:59:54.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, Newcastle is a Norther English Brown Ale, and the color comes from caramel and roasted malts. The problem with cloning it is that the commercial beer is actually a blend of two beers after fermentation, so achieving the same flavors in one brew is difficult. I did find this recipe: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f67/aberdeen-brown-ale-newcastle-clone-ag-36912/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f67/aberdeen-brown-ale-newcastle-clone-ag-36912/&lt;/a&gt; which is modeled after the blending and basically uses a blended recipe instead of blending beers. I brewed a beer based on this recipe, and while my recipe is not a clone, the aroma is nearly identical, and the flavor is great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That recipe does not include an Special B malt, which I'm nearly certain the original has, and is suggested in the comments in that thread. Also, that's an all grain recipe, and you wanted a kit (extract I assume), so &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewmasterswarehouse.com/recipe/e0fd08a9/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I made one up for you at my LHBS&lt;/a&gt;, they have a great recipe creator. And this should be really freaking close in terms of clones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T16:59:54.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2862" CreationDate="2010-12-08T17:08:38.383" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of yeast pitched and its viability has an impact on attenuation.  Secondly, wort fermentability have an impact on attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extract you used this time could be more fermentable than what White Labs is basing their #s off of.  These #s are also a guideline of what to expect not a hard fast rule of what you are supposed to do as a brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't expect that 83% is much different than 80% as most of us as homebrewers aren't using equipment as carefully calibrated and dialed in as we think.  Furthermore, your temperature differences when you used your hydrometer may have been off a bit, giving you a less than accurate reading.  That could influence your apparent attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T17:08:38.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2862" CreationDate="2010-12-08T17:15:21.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentability of the wort is probably the greatest factor in attenuation. With extract you should get pretty close to the mid-to-upper end of the attenuation range depending on specialty grain usage, but if you used any adjunct sugars that were highly fermentable you could exceed the listed attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, that is a typical range, not a set in stone rule. It's not really a target range either, but don't count on that strain producing results higher than normal all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation temperature can also have an impact on attenuation, but it seems that there are no hard rules for what temperatures lead to higher attenuation. Higher temps may cause low attenuation due to yeast death, but it's been speculated to cause higher attenuation due to increased yeast activity at higher temperatures, and both have been seen in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a whole wealth of knowledge on the subject: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Attenuation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Attenuation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T17:15:21.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2862" CreationDate="2010-12-08T17:58:22.783" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the attenuation rating listed for a yeast is more a way of comparing one yeast to another using a standardized wort than it a measure of what your attenuation will be.  Wort fermentability is the key factor in attenuation, followed by yeast health, amount and type.  Using anything other than the very lightest extracts can lead to reduced attenuation since those extracts use malts to color them that may reduce fermentability, like various crystals.  If you want to increase the fermentability of extract beers, replace part of the extract with plain old table sugar.  Sugar is 100% fermentable, so using some in place of some of the extract can reduce the FG of your beer.  If you're brewing all grain and want to increase your attenuation without changing the ingredients in your recipe, mash for a longer time at a lower temperature.  For beers like German pils, I'll mash at 146-147F for 90-120 min.  For Belgian styles like tripel, I'll do that plus add some sugar to the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T17:58:22.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2869" CreationDate="2010-12-08T18:11:05.050" Score="8" ViewCount="4697" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would I go about smoking barley (no points awarded for answering &quot;in a pipe&quot;)?  My LHBS has a couple of smoked varieties, but not the exact type of smoke I want.  I'd like a method that doesn't involve buying a ton of equipment, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:52:34.680" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:52:34.680" Title="How to smoke your malts" Tags="|beer|techniques|malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2862" CreationDate="2010-12-08T18:26:03.040" Score="15" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Factors Influencing Attentuation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The apparent attenuation range published by yeast manufacturers shows how the yeast generally perform, under typical fermentation conditions.  The following factors will affect the attenuation delivered by the yeast:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fermentability of the wort&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Maltotriose is only partially fermentable, and dextrins, caramelized sugars, and some adjuncts, like lactose are unfermentable, so having a higher concentration of these will result in lower attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, keep in mind that adding highly fermentable adjuncts will increase the fermentability.  Late additions of highly-fermentable sugars can drive attenuation well past the typical range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fermentation Temperature&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Lower fermentation temperatures result in slower yeast activity, which tends to cause under-attenuated beer.  Higher temperatures (within limits) increase yeast activity, helping to lower final gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oxygenation&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Lack of oxygen early in the fermentation stresses the yeast and limits growth, causing lower attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pitch Rate&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Pitching the recommended amount of yeast will produce the healthiest colony, which will in turn achieve higher attenuation.  Underpitching stresses the yeast, limiting growth, and overpitching creates an environment where yeast don't have enough nutrients to grow healthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast nutrients&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Providing proper nutrition supports healthy yeast.  In contrast, lack of nutrients, specifically zinc, can lead to stalled fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rousing the Yeast&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;This is a bigger factor with more flocculent strains, where healthy yeast will drop out of suspension early.  Rousing the yeast also drives some excess CO2 from solution, helping the yeast to lower the final gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Contamination&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;If your apparent attenuation is drastically higher than expected, the beer may have been contaminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Errors in Gravity Readings&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;While not actually a factor of attenuation, it's important to remember, as Brewchez mentioned, that there is some error inherent to your measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T18:26:03.040" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2867" CreationDate="2010-12-08T19:50:05.477" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I smoked my own base malt for a smoked porter I made a few months ago, and it turned out really well. I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/pd_95542-447-852-7080-E_4294857758_4294937087_?productId=3047892&amp;amp;Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&amp;amp;pl=1&amp;amp;currentURL=/pl_Smokers_4294857758_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&quot;&gt;this Brinkmann smoker&lt;/a&gt; (I smoke a lot of meat so I already had it handy) and simply placed about 2 pounds of malt at a time on a bed of cheesecloth on the top rack of the smoker. About every 10 minutes, I sprayed the malt down with bourbon to keep it moist (and add a bit of flavor), and turned the malt with a fork to get an even smoking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I smoked each batch of malt for about 45 minutes. My LHBS recommended that I smoke the malt before milling, but since I didn't have a grain mill I had to mill it at the store and then smoked the grain after it was crushed. The smoke flavor in the beer ended up being very prominent, which I really enjoy, but is a bit too much for other people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend smoking before milling if you can, otherwise plan to smoke less of your base malt or smoke it for far less time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to invest in a smoker, you can easily fashion a makeshift smoker from a stainless steel trash can, as seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Garbage-Can-Turkey-Smoker/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (and search for &quot;trash can smoker&quot;, there's plenty of tutorials online). The parts required are relatively cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to make a smoker, a slightly less effective method is to use a gas or charcoal grill with &lt;em&gt;very low heat&lt;/em&gt; as a smoker, although I don't recommend this as you run the risk of roasting/burning your grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T19:50:05.477" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="568" CreationDate="2010-12-09T01:49:17.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I come from Turkey; I live in Istanbul at the moment and I like &lt;strong&gt;boza&lt;/strong&gt; very much. I have had some notes on brewing boza, but I've never tried it myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I didn't try is mainly that the recipes for the general public calls for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bulgur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bulgur&lt;/a&gt; as the main ingredient. (Bulgur is traditionally a very popular food in Turkey and very abundant, so its easy to reach for the general public. Nowadays it has some popularity in Western world as well.)  I'm sure that this is not the case for the &lt;strong&gt;boza&lt;/strong&gt; made by special boza houses, i.e. relatively big industrial firms of the day or by the artisanal shops in the past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know genuine product is made from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proso_millet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;proso millet&lt;/a&gt; as the main ingredient. (Here in Turkey, in metropolitan cities the only way to obtain it is to shop from a pet store. Its sold as a bird food. But even if you buy it there's a problem to mill it in order to get rid of its shell. Apparently it needs some sort of milling to use for boza and I don't know how to do it without having special equipment. Because of this obstacle I believe, the recipes for the general public do not mention proso millet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some producers seem to add some amount of rice as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As those being said I am translating a recipe I found on the Web:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ingredients&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 water glasses of bulgur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 small cups (Turkish coffee cup or espresso cup, lets say) of rice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 water glasses granulated sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 water glass old (previously made) boza or a match box big of yeast (apparently it means bread yeast in paste form)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preparation&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bulgur is soaked in abundant amount of water previous night. (Means that it should be soaked for about 12 hours or so.) The day after, bulgur and rice is boiled to the degree that they are mashed thoroughly. Its treated with a mixer and mashed through a strainer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That mixture is put on top of a stove with low heat. Sugar is added and stirred until it dissolves. Then taken away from the stove.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is let to cool to a lukewarm degree. Stirred from time to time. When its lukewarm, the old boza or the yeast which is dissolved in lukewarm water is added to the mixture. Its stirred thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The mixture, closed with a lid, in a place around 20-25 °C, is left to ferment for 2-3 days. Its stirred from time to time. When you observe small bubbles in it, its done. Then, its transferred to a cool place.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is served cold. Up to taste you may sprinkle ground cinnamon on it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some comments&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the yeast: As its the case in most of the world, here in Turkey general public has no refined knowledge of yeasts. The recipe calls for bread yeast which is very easy to obtain and it mentions a glass of old boza as an option which is obviously can serve as yeast to some degree. Most probably traditionally it was prepared with such a way from the point of the yeast. However, I'm not sure if the big producers of the day use some other yeast or not. You may do some experiments if you have some different types of yeast at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the bulgur-rice and water ratio: The recipe above is blurry for that. You should have tasted a genuine boza before to adjust it. A recipe calls for 2 cups of bulgur and 21 cups water. That may give an idea. I'll write my ratio in concrete terms when I try.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Under any condition, if you have never tasted boza before, its very hard -if not impossible- to tell that what you obtain resembles to genuine boza or not. I'll try the recipe above for myself -beginning tomorrow- and I hope I can say something in a week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully I may add some other recipe(s) as well. The one I already wrote is a very basic one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="764" LastEditorUserId="6534" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T21:47:09.100" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T21:47:09.100" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2867" CreationDate="2010-12-09T04:17:29.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was an &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.libsyn.com/media/basicbrewing/bbv04-12-09roasting.mp4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;episode&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Basic Brewing Video&lt;/a&gt; from April 12, 2009 that covered roasting grain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;James and Steve create their own specialty grains by roasting Maris Otter pale malt for different lengths of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smoking and roasting may be different, but perhaps this will help you on your quest!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T04:17:29.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2010-12-09T05:06:01.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;BrewersHub.com just launched a recipe tool: (http://brewershub.com/recipe_builders/new).  In addition to recipe calculations, it has ingredient suggestions based on recipe style (extract/all grain) and beer style (american ipa, stout, etc), as well as descriptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="765" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T05:06:01.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2010-12-09T05:20:37.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-journal.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brew-journal.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One distinction from the others: it's Open-Source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One similarity with the others: it's (very) incomplete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(disclosure: I started this codebase)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T05:20:37.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2878" CreationDate="2010-12-09T13:14:16.680" Score="8" ViewCount="3694" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is as simple as the title reads. In general, if I know the FG of any given beer, can that be a good indicator to me of how sweet that beer will taste? So the higher the FG, the sweeter the taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess ... 80% of the time that will be true, but not always. I'm thinking there are cases where a beer might contain a lot of unfermented dextrins contributing to the Final Gravity, which do not provide a sweet taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="195" LastEditorUserId="195" LastEditDate="2010-12-09T16:16:46.487" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T05:47:23.587" Title="Is Final Gravity a good indicator of sweetness?" Tags="|specific-gravity|sweetness|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2876" CreationDate="2010-12-09T14:03:36.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got it right. Gravity is a measure of dissolved solids in the liquid. And if those solids are complex, un-fermentable dextrins then the gravity will be high but the taste will not be super sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T14:03:36.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2876" CreationDate="2010-12-09T14:30:01.343" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perceived sweetness has a lot to do with balance.  A beer with an FG of 1.025 sounds sweet based on that number, but if the IBU level is high or, better yet, well balanced, the beer won't be cloying.  Similarly and coversely, a beer that finishes nearly dry at, say, 1.005 could taste quite sweet if the IBUs are low and the alcohol content is high.  Alcohol is sweet.  Without hop bitterness to balance it, the beer would taste sweet even with such a low finishing gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T14:30:01.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2876" CreationDate="2010-12-09T16:32:16.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you can generalize to say that it is or isn't.  You can have a beer with a low FG that has a low hopping and it will taste sweet.  Or you can have a beer with high hopping and high FG and it won't necessarily taste sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T16:32:16.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2882" CreationDate="2010-12-09T17:02:42.580" Score="5" ViewCount="1444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of brewing some hard lemonade, and from what I've read, I'll need to neutralize the yeast with sulfites if I want to prevent it from getting too dry. Will I need to force carbonate after that? Is there a way to make a sweet, carbonated, hard lemonade using natural carbonation / bottle conditioning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T14:32:06.667" Title="Can I naturally carbonate a sweet hard lemonade?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|lemonade|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2880" CreationDate="2010-12-09T17:09:22.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you sulfite the lemonade to neutralize the yeast you cannot bottle condition.  The sulfite will prevent any further fermentation which is necessary for bottle conditioning.  The only option is to force carbonate.&#xA;Although you could bottle still and add charged water to add fizz or bottle condition the dry lemonade and then sweeten at the time of drinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="687" LastEditDate="2010-12-09T17:14:58.830" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T17:14:58.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2880" CreationDate="2010-12-09T17:18:45.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is similar to the one in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2805/ginger-beer-recipe&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, but the short answer is that your safest bet is force-carbonating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with bottle conditioning is that you've already killed most of your yeast, and even if you were to successfully repitch, there's really no good way to &quot;turn off&quot; fermentation when you reach your target carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some potential issues with trying to stop fermentation halfway through - it would be best to ferment it fully to the alcoholic strength you want, let the yeast settle, rack, then add a stabilizer, and add sugar for sweetness at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, the yeast will be able to clean up off-flavors at the end of the fermentation cycle, and you mitigate risks of the campden/sulfites not fully neutralizing the entire yeast population.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T17:18:45.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2884" CreationDate="2010-12-09T21:00:24.947" Score="10" ViewCount="15201" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to store LME for extended periods of time?  Can LME be kept in the freezer to limit spoilage or are there better ways keep it somewhat fresh? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-12-10T00:05:40.950" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T00:35:06.343" Title="Liquid malt extract storage" Tags="|extract|storage|lme|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2883" CreationDate="2010-12-09T21:13:10.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that storing it sealed and frozen would be the best way to keep it fresh.  As long as it's under refrigeration, spoilage shouldn't be an issue, but I know volatile aromatics will still escape over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From BYO:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquid malt syrup is easy to store as long as it is in the original can. This is an ideal container that keeps the syrup safe from light and oxygen, and the malt is good for about two years before it starts to degrade. The manufacturer has normally also heated the syrup to pasteurize it before shipping, so it is void of bacteria, molds and yeast. Most cans have an expiration date that helps you know when it is getting old. The same temperature range (50¡ to 70¡ F) applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquid malt syrup that has been opened, or is sold in bulk plastic containers, has a much shorter shelf life. While buying malt syrup in this form is normally less expensive, it must be used in less than 3 months, or the syrup will degrade or even grow mold. If you have malt syrup in this form, the best way to store it is in the fridge. Pick the smallest possible container to eliminate airspace and avoid oxidation. While the extremely high sugar content inhibits yeast activity and molding, over a three- to four-month time period the syrup will lose its freshness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really though, outside of a month or two, staling and darkening are inevitable, regardless of the storage method.  Overbuying LME is not recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T21:25:27.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-10T02:25:53.583" Score="6" ViewCount="3103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in an apartment and didn't receive notification that my yeast had arrived for 3 days after it got to the office. Normally, I'd just toss the vial of yeast and go to my LHBS to get more, but this is the Antwerp Ale yeast (Platinum Strain, not currently available at my LHBS).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I had an ice pack shipped with it, the yeast vial likely sat there for 2-3 days at room temperature before I was able to refrigerate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the yeast still viable? I'll be making a starter but would prefer not to have to make a brew day run to get multiple vials/pouches of replacement yeast in lieu of a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Hop" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T12:48:05.363" Title="If a vial of yeast is at room temperature for 3 days then put back in the refrigerator, is it still viable?" Tags="|yeast|viability|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2885" CreationDate="2010-12-10T02:35:23.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are probably still some viable yeast cells in there.   You may need to build it up a couple of times to get a pitchable number of cells, though.   Also, there's no telling which cells are still alive, so it may wind up with a different character from what a well-treated vial would produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd try it and see what happens.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T02:35:23.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2885" CreationDate="2010-12-10T03:15:16.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's likely still pretty good.  You'd want to make a starter with it in any case, and that will give you a good indication of viability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T03:15:16.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2885" CreationDate="2010-12-10T06:03:05.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast should still be mostly viable, but a viability test would be needed to confirm.  If you don't have methylene blue and a microscope, then you'll have to assume a viability level.  I would think an assumption of 75% would be fine, along with careful monitoring of your starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should your starter not propagate correctly, you could also always leave the boiled wort in a sanitized vessel while you wait for a new shipment of yeast.  Were it me, I would prefer the slight risk of contamination over brewing with the wrong yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T06:03:05.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2885" CreationDate="2010-12-10T12:48:05.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It'll be fine if you work off a starter.  I'd also recommend planning a second batch with some harvested yeast from the cake.  Certainly after the primary is done with the first beer, you'll be back to a good amount of healthy yeast in the cake.  So planning a second batch will be a nice comparator, and you won't have wasted the platinum strain should the first batch be sub par.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T12:48:05.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2892" CreationDate="2010-12-10T15:19:19.233" Score="3" ViewCount="556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a batch of braggot (~46% honey) a couple of weeks ago, and used the Duvel strain (a pack of Wyeast 1388 and a vial of WLP570).   Pitched at 65 and ramped it up to 82 over the course of 7 days.   Is there a good rule of thumb for how long the yeast should sit at the high temperature before I cool it, or is it best to just watch the gravity and wait until the yeast finishes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T16:30:43.567" Title="How much time should a warm-fermenting yeast strain sit at the high primary temperature?" Tags="|beer|techniques|fermentation-temperature|belgian|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2890" CreationDate="2010-12-10T16:15:36.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you're making a braggot, I don't think the &quot;traditional&quot; rules apply.  Being a few degrees out of the recommended temp range isn't gonna be a big deal.  While I'd never ferment a beer anywhere near that warm, you might be just fine for a braggot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T16:15:36.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2890" CreationDate="2010-12-10T16:30:43.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the temperature schedule was intended for high attenuation and cleanup of yeast byproducts, such as diacetyl and acetaldehyde, then you should keep it at the warm temperature until a minimum of two days after terminal gravity has been reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you fermented warm to produce more esters, fusels, and phenols, then you only need to keep the beer at the current temperature until terminal gravity is reached.  Dropping it earlier will cause the yeast to slow, or even exhibit heat shock, and your fermentation may fall a point or two short of the lowest possible final gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, just a warning - you're probably going to have &lt;strong&gt;excessive&lt;/strong&gt; acetaldehyde from fermenting this warm - I would guess upwards of 300 ppm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T16:30:43.567" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2895" CreationDate="2010-12-10T18:27:52.727" Score="5" ViewCount="31597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing my first batch of brew and I bottled almost two weeks ago. I've been super anal about keeping everything sterilized, clean, and at the correct temperature during fermentation and bottling. I've &quot;swirled&quot; each beer bottle as recommended by the kit I have and I checked it last night and the beer is still cloudy with small amount of &quot;stuff&quot; (Im' assuming sediment/yeast/etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to finally try it out this weekend for the first real taste test, but I have a few questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why is the beer cloudy? &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What did I do wrong?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the &quot;stufff&quot; at the bottom of the beer? Yeast? Sediment/etc? &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it still OK to drink with it in there? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I let it sit for a couple more weeks? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T14:49:06.870" Title="Bottled Beer is Cloudy" Tags="|clarity|cloudy|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2758" CreationDate="2010-12-10T18:34:03.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As many others have said, its a Northern English Brown Ale. If you're interested in brewing one that tastes very similar, you can try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/oldcastle-brown-ale-newcastle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Midwest Supplies &quot;Old Castle&quot; clone kit&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T18:34:03.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2893" CreationDate="2010-12-10T19:04:56.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've never home brewed before or have never opened a bottle of someone's homebrew, I understand this can be disconcerting.  But if you really have followed all the instructions on your kit and been careful during your sanitization, then what you have in that bottle is real ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Congratulations!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most home brewed ale will not clear up significantly when sitting at room temperature.  Now that you have bottled it and given it enough time to carbonate in bottle, I suggest putting a few of those into the fridge.  Let them sit undisturbed for a few days to a few weeks (how ever long you can last having to stare at them without drinking them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are finally ready to check, bring one out of the fridge.  Gently handle it.  Don't upend it.  Hold it up to a bright light and see how it looks through that brown bottle.  Is the light on the other side easy to distinguish?  Or is it still hazy?  Is there a nice layer of sediment on the bottom?  OK.  Now pop that cap off.  Did it go 'psht' like a carbonated bottle should?  OK.  Now pour it gently into a clear glass.  Don't pour the last ounce or so.  Let the beer set.  Does it have a nice head?  Is the beer still clear?  OK.  Now drink it.  Does it taste like beer?  OK.  Congratulations.  You have beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously though.  Don't worry about it.  Real beer has yeast in it.  Yeast can create haze.  They do this until they flocculate (a fancy word that means they clump together and fall down).  If the beer is still cloudy (and the style says it shouldn't be) you may notice a slightly yeasty or bready smell or taste.  This is OK.  It won't hurt you.  It just won't win you any ribbons at a competition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T19:04:56.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2893" CreationDate="2010-12-10T19:23:48.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, unless you take steps to clarify your beer, like resting the beer in a secondary fermenter, cold crashing it and/or adding clarifying agents, you can expect it to be cloudy.  The junk at the bottom is called trub, it's mostly inactivated yeast and proteins, totally safe to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say drink some now, and save some for a couple weeks.  See how the time affects your brew.  Also you can let some of it sit at room temp, and some sit at fridge temp.  I usually find that lagers &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; ales improve flavor after sitting in the fridge for about a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T19:23:48.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2893" CreationDate="2010-12-10T21:04:57.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How did you chill your wort? Long, gradual cooling will not remove as many haze-forming proteins as a quicker temperature drop will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T21:04:57.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2893" CreationDate="2010-12-10T21:44:41.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/572&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Strong -- Beer Haze&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be cloudy due to yeast still in suspension, or from Haze Forming proteins.   You didn't necessarily do anything &quot;wrong&quot;, but a flocking agent such as irish moss or Whirlfloc would probably increase clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stuff is trub, leftover particulate matter, and dead or dormant yeast cells.  The beer is safe to drink with it in there, but I highly recommend leaving the sediment in the bottle (live yeast get really happy in your intestines).  Pour carefully, and you'll only leave a quarter inch or so of beer in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer it sits, the more stuff will drop out.   Also, more will drop out if you chill the beer.  After 2 or 3 weeks, you've probably got as much carbonation as you're going to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T21:44:41.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-10T22:27:07.800" Score="7" ViewCount="8293" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some beers claim to be triple fermented, meaning that after primary fermentation, more fermentables are added at the start of secondary, and then the brew is bottle-conditioned, resulting in three separate additions of sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read somewhere that yeast is added for secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much is added during secondary?  Is it a major fermentable addition, or just one or two gravity points' worth, like what is added for bottle conditioning?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is yeast repitched as well?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the second addition is significant, what are its effects? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-12-11T03:35:07.370" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T15:25:37.673" Title="Triple Fermented?? But Why?" Tags="|fermentation|flavor|belgian|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2899" CreationDate="2010-12-11T01:43:04.290" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the effects?  Pretty much none, really.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-11T01:43:04.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-11T03:11:07.463" Score="3" ViewCount="1474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing the same recipe now for several batches.  It's my house beer.  A Kolsch-style beer.  While I have followed the same recipe for each attempt, I'm sure there has been some variances in how it is brewed.  Specifically, I know that the mash temperature has been a little different each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the pieces of information that I have been keeping at each attempt is the gravity readings on brew day, when I rack primary to secondary, and when I keg the beer.  At each point, I've been reading gravity with both my hydrometer and my refractometer.  Of course, at the beginning of fermentation, the reading are the same.  At secondary and kegging, they are different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the FG reading on the hydrometer has always ended up at 1.010, what I've noticed is that on some batches, the FG reading on the refractometer has ranged from about 1.026 to 1.023.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this:  Is there any way to correlate the mash temperature to the variances in the refractometer reading?  Does this have anything to do with simple sugar to dextrin ratios?  What does this all mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T19:35:53.067" Title="Final Gravity on the Refractormeter vs. the Hydrometer" Tags="|specific-gravity|mashing|science|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2899" CreationDate="2010-12-11T03:20:25.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding, a few Belgian beers use a second yeast strain during bottle conditioning.  This is to impart a different and unique flavor to the final beer.  In that case, that would be 'double fermentation'.  I've never noticed a 'triple fermented' beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I imagine that you have two choices when 'triple fermenting'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is to add a fresh batch of the same strain of yeast in at secondary.  The advantage of this is that a freshly made batch of yeast would be very active and could drop the FG a few more points than the original yeast could.  This would yield a dryer and more alcoholic final beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second option is to add another strain of yeast at secondary.  This would of course change the flavor profile.  And potential affect the final gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the second option is taken and it is the same yeast as bottle conditioning, then you get no real benefit in my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the second option is taken and a third strain is added at bottle conditioning, then you might get something unique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the first option is taken you could at least get more alcohol, if that is your aim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, it sounds like a lot of work and cost for no real benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flip side to this argument is that I've had a lot of really good Belgian beers, so they probably know what they are doing. =)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-12-11T03:20:25.930" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2901" CreationDate="2010-12-11T03:34:21.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alcohol in fermented beer skews the refractometer reading.  You need to use a correction formula in order to get an accurate reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-11T03:34:21.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2910" CreationDate="2010-12-11T22:50:30.937" Score="1" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed a big Belgian beer last week. And using my refractometer (poorly, as it turns out), I wasn't able to get a solid reading of the OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now a week later I've taken a sample of the beer and want to retroactively determine the OG using the current gravity, as determined by a hydrometer. Will this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My method was this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a hydrometer reading. In this case, 1.024.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a refractometer reading. 11.1 brix.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the MoreBeer refractometer correction worksheet enter the current refractometer reading on the first line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enter various numbers for the &quot;Starting Refractometer Reading&quot; until the FG column for the 11.1 brix reading results in a gravity of 1.024.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing that gave me an OG of 1.079. This is much lower than I'd expect. According to the recipe and readings I was doing during brewing, my OG should be up in the 1.090s. That makes me think my method for retroactively determining OG is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2010-12-12T05:08:31.260" Title="Can I retroactively deterimine my OG with a refractometer?" Tags="|original-gravity|hydrometer|refractometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-11T22:52:17.707" Score="30" ViewCount="13477" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for good blogs aimed at home brewers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="765" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-08-10T04:19:43.220" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T12:03:43.677" Title="Good home brewing blogs" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-12-13T16:30:12.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2010-12-11T23:25:52.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The posts on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend&lt;/a&gt; are good. And &lt;a href=&quot;http://northernbrewer.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Northern Brewer&lt;/a&gt; has a blog that I just started reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for self-pimpage, here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://ianwhitney.com/hopwise/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my brewing site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastEditorUserId="758" LastEditDate="2011-02-01T17:34:23.850" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T17:34:23.850" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-12-13T16:30:12.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2899" CreationDate="2010-12-11T23:34:50.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/double-triple-fermentation-167741/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrewtalk&lt;/a&gt; the opinion seems to be that it's a beer that has had fermentables added to it twice after the initial brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's fermented once, moved to a secondary where a new fermentable is added &amp;amp; perhaps some different yeast. That's the second fermentation. Then more fermentables are added and it's bottled. The bottle conditioning is the third fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2010-12-11T23:34:50.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2906" CreationDate="2010-12-12T05:08:31.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your method for determining OG isn't technically wrong, but I'm not sure how much error exists in the formulas in the spreadsheets.  I just tested your method, plugging in post fermentation gravity, and then adjusting OG (OB) until the final gravity reading matched what I measured with the hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the specific recipe I used, it was one point away in it's calculation against the actual OG measured with a hydrometer.  So I would say that for my recipe, the method worked, and was accurate to less than the standard error of the measurements (assuming 95% confidence interval).  Is it possible that your efficiency was just lower than you'd expected, and that the reverse calculation was accurate for your recipe as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone else has a post-fermentation gravity from both a hydrometer and an uncorrected refractometer, can you please try this and see if the OB in the spreadsheet matches your measured OG?  I'll also open another bottle and test a second recipe tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-12T05:08:31.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2010-12-12T15:04:18.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The few brewing blogs I have followed don't seem to last very long, or when I do find them they are months (or years) out of date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewblog.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://homebrewblog.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt; seems to be currently active. And &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt; has strong membership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="430" LastEditDate="2011-02-01T18:15:51.723" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T18:15:51.723" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-12-13T16:30:12.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2893" CreationDate="2010-12-12T16:42:34.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find 24 hours in the fridge (not the door, too much movement) before serving will help the sediment to congeal at the bottom of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carful pouring will give you a relatively clear result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not ideal for brews best served at room temperature, but excellent for ciders and lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastActivityDate="2010-12-12T16:42:34.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11904" CreationDate="2010-12-12T20:53:13.120" Score="23" ViewCount="36885" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be great if I didn't have to ruin a bottle of beer by opening it to test to see if it carbonated.  Is there any way to tell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2010-12-13T16:52:46.843" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T11:58:33.520" Title="Is there anyway to tell if a glass bottle of beer is carbonated without opening it?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|glass|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2990" CreationDate="2010-12-12T21:00:12.923" Score="3" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried putting aluminium foil about 3 inches out from around burner, but that seemed to exacerbate the problem. I think it helped the insulate the area under the foil.  It seems like I am ruining the stove.  Is there anyway to prevent this from happening?  I know I can get a burner for outside, but I would really rather brew inside the house.  Especially in the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastEditorUserId="1375" LastEditDate="2011-05-27T05:04:58.270" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T05:04:58.270" Title="Long boils are ruining enamel on stove, is there any way to prevent this?" Tags="|boil|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1185" CreationDate="2010-12-12T21:04:34.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck with a very good quality Belgium cocoa.  You don't need much, I did a recipe with 1 oz and it turned out better than using 8 oz of your standard grocery store cocoa.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2010-12-12T21:04:34.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2916" CreationDate="2010-12-12T22:35:29.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is some experimentation going on with immersion of water heater coils for boiling, but I have no experience with that.   I hear that it's fast and efficient, but I would be nervous about water + high voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2010-12-12T22:35:29.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2915" CreationDate="2010-12-12T23:32:03.593" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A time test is your best bet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottle carbonation should be pretty mechanical unless you're experimenting with conditioning yeasts.  If you're not doing anything fancy with the carbonation, it should be safe to assume that your beer is done carbonating after two weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-12-12T23:32:03.593" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2915" CreationDate="2010-12-13T12:26:47.903" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are that dire for things to happen quickly fill one plastic bottle each time you bottle.&#xA;It will be firm once the beer is carbed.  You can simply re-use 16-20oz soda bottles for this, or buy plastic beer bottles with screw on caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T12:26:47.903" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2010-12-13T14:12:03.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run a blog about home brewing and its updated every other day or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested check it out at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mashspargeboil.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Home Brew Answers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T12:03:43.677" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T12:03:43.677" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-12-13T16:30:12.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2880" CreationDate="2010-12-13T14:32:06.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want natural carbonation your best bet is to find a yeast will naturally low attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp720.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs WLP720&lt;/a&gt; is a wine/mead yeast to make sweet wines and mead as the attenuation is less than 75%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how well it will go with your lemonade. You could also try looking for sweet cider yeasts I think Wyeast may do something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T14:32:06.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2899" CreationDate="2010-12-13T15:03:39.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think fruit beers are a great example of triple fermented beers, usually wheat, but adding the fruit to the secondary allows for a more gentle fermentation of the fruit leaving behind more of the fruit flavor.  This is very common in lambics and heffeweizens.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the beer you saw, I wonder if they just added honey or something, I don't know that this would change the flavor much, although it would keep the OG lower allowing the yeast to do it's job a little easier.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do however completely understand now (having done this wrong before) why you would add the fruit after initial fermentation to preserve more of the fruit flavor in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T15:03:39.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2926" CreationDate="2010-12-13T15:39:08.747" Score="15" ViewCount="57436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a formula for calculating ABV (alcohol by volume) from several different sources on the Internet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;((76.08*(OG-FG)/(1.775-OG))*(FG/0.794))&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works just great, but it's not the easiest one to remember. Are there any other formulas out there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2021-11-05T14:15:53.957" Title="Calculating Alcohol by Volume" Tags="|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2924" CreationDate="2010-12-13T15:46:41.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent some time this weekend dusting off my algebra. (Do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; tell my high school algebra teacher that algebra was useful!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested this formula against the original for a range of typical brewing OG's (1.035 - 1.095) and FG's (1.002 - 1.028).  I found that it didn't stray from the above calculation by more than 0.06% ABV.  Considering the variables involved in reading a hydrometer, this is definitely close enough for me.  Rather than using SG in the form of &lt;code&gt;1.040&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;1.008&lt;/code&gt;, it uses whole numbers like &lt;code&gt;40&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;8&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;( (OG-FG)*(832+OG)*(832+FG) )/5500000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not quite back-of-the-envelope, but I can use only a calculator to get a good ABV number. It's only two constants to remember (and I can remember the latter as &quot;five, five, five zeroes&quot;).  Would love to hear any simplifications or alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T15:46:41.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2924" CreationDate="2010-12-13T16:24:27.077" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a quick, easy calculation, you can use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ABV = (OG - FG)/.75&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt; (and then multiply by 100 to get a percentage)&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ABV = (OG - FG)*131&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's not a linear relationship, so there's a fair bit of error in both of those estimations but they'll get you within a half a percentage point of the actual value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned about accuracy, you'll need a messier formula, like the one you gave.  Balling and DeClerk have good methods.  There are also online calculators, like the one at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rooftopbrew.net/abv.php&quot;&gt;Rooftop Brew&lt;/a&gt;.  Or you could put one into a spreadsheet, and just enter your OG and FG there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, if you want a simple formula, expect error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T16:24:27.077" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2924" CreationDate="2010-12-13T16:26:09.057" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally use (og - fg) * 1.10.  It's not spot on accurate, but you'll get a good idea.  Don't forget to divide by 10 after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T16:26:09.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2915" CreationDate="2010-12-13T16:27:08.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually wait a couple weeks then look for trub in the bottom of the bottle.  If it's there, the yeast finished the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T16:27:08.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2915" CreationDate="2010-12-13T17:49:30.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often open one after a few days, and then I'll often open one every day or two after that.  I find it interesting to see how it changes in the 2-3 weeks while it's carbonating.  How many bottles are in the batch?  Is it a big deal if you lose a few before they were completely ready?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can do is determine the carbonation level roughly by the noise and feel of removing the cap.  If it seems under-carbonated, just immediately put on a new cap.  That bottle will end up slightly less carbonated than it would have been if you'd left it alone, but the difference will be tiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T17:49:30.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2010-12-13T22:26:12.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run a blog that's aimed at finding good homebrew and beer related deals and unique brewing equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewfinds.blogspot.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrew Finds.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="hbf" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T02:17:08.750" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T02:17:08.750" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-12-13T22:26:12.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2010-12-13T22:48:36.380" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Mad Fermentationist&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Brendan Gramer" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T02:15:45.670" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T02:15:45.670" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-12-13T22:48:36.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2924" CreationDate="2010-12-13T23:29:43.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of an approximation that you can do in your head, take the difference in degrees Plato and divide by 2. It'll get you within a few 10ths of the ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;~ABV = (OG(°P) - FG(°P)) / 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: this approximation gets less accurate for stronger beers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2010-12-14T10:53:05.170" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T10:53:05.170" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2924" CreationDate="2010-12-14T00:05:09.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used Maple to plot the expression in your question as a two dimensional surface using the range of values you suggested. The plot looks rather flat in that region, so I chose the midpoint of your intervals (OG=1.065, FG=1.015) and computed the tangent plane to the surface at that point. (The tangent plane is the best linear approximation to the surface at that point.) Here's what I got:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Linear Approximation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV = -17.1225210+146.6266588*OG-130.2323766*FG&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for an easier to remember formula, then you can go with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplified Linear Approximation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV = 147*OG - 130*FG -17&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this simplified linear approximation, the computed ABV differs from your original formula by no more than 0.78 on the interval you specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is fairly easy to remember since 147-17=130. What luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="609" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T00:05:09.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-14T01:09:14.357" Score="6" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend has offered to design labels for a few of my favourite beers. I just got the first one, and I love it. The only problem is some of the design elements don't show up very well when printed on a home laser or inkjet printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I love it so much, I'm thinking about getting several hundred printed by a professional offset printing company that can reproduce the fine details she put into the design. Does anyone have any suggestions for offset printing companies that handle beer labels? Enough with marking the caps of the beers and trying to remember what each letter stands for. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:53:03.433" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T08:27:04.803" Title="Profesionally Printed Labels?" Tags="|beer|bottles|labels|printing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2934" CreationDate="2010-12-14T15:08:17.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This probably isn't very helpful but you could try looking up the printing company who print the bottle labels/caps for &quot;Wychwood brewery&quot; their bottle caps are always intricately designed with teeny details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Mmm" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T15:08:17.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2934" CreationDate="2010-12-14T16:08:06.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some printed at bottleyourbrand.com, they turned out pretty well.  I would suggest ordering a few and judging the quality before you order several hundred.  I'm sure that there are other label printing companies, I just haven't used them before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T16:08:06.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1668" CreationDate="2010-12-14T17:41:42.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use growlers with Grolsch-style caps all the time and condition in them.  I tend to shoot for a lighter carbonation usually, so I've never had any blow on me.  Besides, those kinds of caps will leak before they blow.  Your carb level will be different than with 22s on the same batch, but it has never bothered me-- I've always found the growlers to take longer but to eventually have a tad more carbonation in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T17:41:42.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2940" CreationDate="2010-12-14T18:42:41.363" Score="2" ViewCount="1419" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any low cost (less than $150) solutions to add temperature control to an electric HLT?  My setup is a keg with a 5500W water heater element.  I love how quickly it brings 15 gallons to boiling (less than 1hr), but it's a bit of a hassle to get the temperature I want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I probably need to be re-circulating to make the temperature consistent, which I can do, but I'm curious if there are some options.  I've looked over the instructions at www.theelectricbrewery.com, which is amazing and wonderful, but the cost for the PID, SSR, heat sink, and temperature probe comes out to about $120 before shipping or tax, and without accounting for misc connector and cable costs, let alone any box to contain it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, running my boil kettle (exact same setup) at 100% is my only option right now, which requires me to have my large fan running over it to keep from boiling over, and I'm not sure if that'll work once summer rolls around.  Will one temperature control setup work for both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone else working creatively in this realm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2010-12-14T19:51:20.007" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T19:51:20.007" Title="What options exist for temperature control for electric HLT" Tags="|electric|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2934" CreationDate="2010-12-14T19:22:49.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would also suggest looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.prestolabels.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Presto Labels&lt;/a&gt;; their pricing is reasonable, and easily discoverable. You will find (unfortunately) that small runs of 100 labels are annoyingly expensive. On the other hand, if you have a recipe that you really like &amp;amp; do frequently, getting 500 labels made up might be worth it. I'd be tempted to have a semi-custom label done with my name &amp;amp; some artwork on it + a place to write in the recipe name &amp;amp; date with a sharpie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T19:22:49.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2938" CreationDate="2010-12-14T19:46:22.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing your system, I can't give you specifics, but Arduino makes great microcontroller USB I/O boards in the $25 range.  You program the board through a USB interface using a language similar to C, so it wouldn't be hard to write a PID control program for temperature.  You would need an interface to step the thermocouple voltage up to proper levels for the Arduino inputs, but there are a variety of options for that.  (For instance, maxim-ic sells a thermocouple-to-digital converter.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you'll need a way of making the outputs useful to control your system.  If you have an electric heater, you could probably generate PWM and use a solid-state relay to boost your power.  For gas you'd need a valve with an electronic input - I'm sure something exists on the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a reference point, I once read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/beyond_the_beyond/2009/07/open-source-arduino-robot-beer-brewery/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;something&lt;/a&gt; about this on wired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, one Arduino microcontroller could control several separate circuits, so you could monitor your brew kettle, but since it stays at a constant temperature, you'd have to find a creative way to measure the boil water height, and even then, it's a laggy system, so controlling the heat is going to be problematic.  Maybe you would be better off controlling the cooling fan instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, once all's said and done, I don't think you'll save a lot over the other option, but if you're interested in the experience of creating your own system, it might be a good alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T19:46:22.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-14T21:57:49.513" Score="7" ViewCount="3552" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my Dad is an avid brewer, and has always re-used old beer bottles that we drank our way through to bottle his home-brew in.  However, for Christmas I made a label on photoshop with our families last name on it.  It looks pretty rad I do say so myself.  So I bought a case of nicer bottles with the pop top on it to put the label on...however...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a label that I can paint/stick/adhere to the glass, so that when he wants to wash them and re-bottle, they won't fade/get moldy/wrinkle/etc.  Some folks at beer stores told me this was impossible...but I was thinking if I printed a label on some good shiny label paper, and painted over it with polyurithane that it might be impervious to the aging and damaging effects of water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?  My other idea would be to try and put some type of stenciled label like the rolling rock beer bottles, where it is almost painted onto the bottle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Max" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:54:29.017" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T01:18:07.897" Title="Reusable Beer Label" Tags="|beer|bottle|permanent|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2941" CreationDate="2010-12-14T22:15:19.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you laser print onto Avery labels (or probably almost any brand of label), it's pretty resilient without a protective coat - I have some labels on bottles that I printed two years ago, that have survived 4 or 5 batches, soaks in StarSan, etc.  In fact, the labels I have are harder to get off than almost every commercial label, which is why I stopped labeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the imperviousness of the naked labels, I would think a quick shot of some aerosol-style polyurethane would do the job of protecting them for quite a few brew cycles.  I doubt there's anything that's fully permanent, particularly if you happen to run them through the dishwasher, but this is a pretty good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T22:15:19.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2944" CreationDate="2010-12-14T23:52:26.987" Score="5" ViewCount="13510" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you think it is worth the $135 for a Blichmann burner?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/burners/blichmann-floor-burner.html&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/burners/blichmann-floor-burner.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a turkey fryer at Home Depot for less than half the price.  Why should I spend more $ on the Blichmann burner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T17:22:33.177" Title="Is the Blichmann burner worth the money?" Tags="|burner|propane-burner|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2010-12-15T01:50:13.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blichmannengineering.com/brew_stand/brewstand_modular.html&quot;&gt;http://www.blichmannengineering.com/brew_stand/brewstand_modular.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you follow that link, and click on burner data, you can get the manufacturer's description of what makes theirs better.  From their description, and what I can see, you're looking at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faster boil time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibly better designed stand (don't know the other model)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From their numbers, it doesn't look like you'd save propane, merely time, so you have to determine how much that is worth to you.  Before going electric I had a low cost model, likely similar to what you're talking about (~$75 with a pot).  The stand was underwhelming, but not really a problem.  The longer boil time was a big consideration for me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the money, my perspective is that saving time means you brew more often.  On the other hand, if saving money means you get the equipment now rather than later, you might brew more now, which is also important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2010-12-15T02:02:29.177" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T02:02:29.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-15T02:33:53.060" Score="1" ViewCount="10361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to try to brew a Russian Imperial Stout with the intent to have something more along the lines of a High Gravity/Desserty type beer similar to Bells Batch 9000.  I am using a kit recipe and modifying it with a little less hops, adding cocoa and vanilla bean with bourbon and american oak with lactose for body/sweetness.&#xA;I am very familiar with alcoholic fermentation because I make wine for a living.  I will be kegging this beer and the bourbon will be added post fermentation so no need to warn me on the cautionary ABV.&#xA;I am trying to sort through all the information in my literature and through the grapevine (literally) what I hear about brewing and I am finding what I would consider mixed information on the use of lactose in beer.&#xA;I understand lactose's use but I see people adding it to the wort instead of the finished beer.  I would think that having a non-fermentable sugar would stress the yeast and risk an incomplete or stinky fermentation.  Is lactose normally added before or after fermentation and why?&#xA;Also, any good videos on all-grain brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="eric" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T03:07:41.827" Title="I need some clarification on the use of Lactose" Tags="|lactose|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2945" CreationDate="2010-12-15T03:07:41.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO there is no need for Lactose in a RIS to start with.  The base recipe will bring plenty of body and residual sugars to the the final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lactose doesn't have an appreciable detriment on the yeast during fermentation either.  I have never had a beer suffer because lactose was in the ferment.  It doesn't slow the yeast down any, nor is there and &quot;stinky&quot; fermentation or poor fermentation.  I have always added it in the kettle.  Adding later you'd need to dissolve it in some water first and then you'd be diluting your beer some when you finally add it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, a pound of lactose in a 5-6gallon batch is the norm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T03:07:41.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2010-12-15T03:11:14.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its probably worth it if you wanted to eventually upgrade to the blichmann brewing stand, to keep it all modular.  If you don't plan to doing a whole stand eventually, the burners from HomeDepot type sources work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And BTUs for any burner you see is dictated more from the regulator on the tank and not the burners configuration itself.  Its also very difficult to compare BTUs across manufacturers because they all conduct the BTU tests slightly differently.  So don't be confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T03:11:14.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2941" CreationDate="2010-12-15T03:15:17.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if you could get your own design professionally printed on those &quot;vinyl&quot; like sheets that stick to windows?  Then you can peel them on and off almost indefinitely. Not really and answer, but whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T03:15:17.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2010-12-15T03:21:22.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am sort of partial to my blog &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Dudes&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Seeing as this is a community wiki, I don't mind pimping my own site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T03:21:22.543" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-12-15T03:21:22.543" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2941" CreationDate="2010-12-15T03:48:30.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered either having the bottles etched (like people do for weddings) or (screen?) printed on with paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Etching usually just involes an acid or mild abrasive to take the gloss off the glass--it's permanent and shouldn't compromise the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painting should be near-permanent, hot water and possibly cleansers might fade or peel the paint though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option to consider would be sealing your printed labels on.  Not sure how it would be done or what types of materials, but the idea would be to put a thin layer of something like plastic over the label to keep all water and grime out.  When in doubt, experiment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T03:48:30.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2010-12-15T04:48:31.040" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend listening to &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/600&quot;&gt;John Blichmann's appearance on Brew Strong&lt;/a&gt; where they talk about burners and boil. Obviously the man is proud of his product, so he talks it up. But his knowledge and enthusiasm for home brewing is what really sold me on his equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I settled on buying a Blichmann burner because I hate buying equipment twice. I'd rather spend a bit more on a sturdy, long-term investment. And I thought this was the best way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T04:48:31.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1668" CreationDate="2010-12-15T17:59:04.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you thought about using Magnum (1.5L) Champagne bottles?  They're built for the pressure and they have a punt in the bottom which may help with the sediments as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawback: Special capping equipment needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2011-01-08T19:45:18.060" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T19:45:18.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2901" CreationDate="2010-12-15T19:35:53.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing tools like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerSmith&lt;/a&gt; provide refractometer correction tools when taking readings of fermenting or fermented beer. You measure the SG of a given sample both with a hydrometer and a refractometer. This then allows you to determine the &quot;skew factor&quot; that is typical for you. You can then use this to correct subsequent refractometer readings. It's not totally accurate, but can give a reasonably good estimate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm always keen to taste the finished beer, even uncarbonated, so taking an accurate hydrometer reading is the perfect excuse to have a taste!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T19:35:53.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2941" CreationDate="2010-12-15T21:29:12.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onlinelabels.com/material_weatherproof_matte_inkjet_labels.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;weatherproof vinyl labels&lt;/a&gt;.  According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onlinelabels.com/Instructions/OL5030WJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;, you can print on them with a standard inkjet printer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The material is weatherproof and the&#xA;  ink from a standard inkjet printer&#xA;  will encapsulate into a specially&#xA;  formulated top-coating upon printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They make it sound like as the ink dries it soaks into the vinyl label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that Highland Brewing in North Carolina uses vinyl labels and they're awesome.  They don't start peeling off after washing, but if you want to take them off one good pull takes care of it with no gluey mess left behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to have the labels printed for you, you might want to check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mavericklabel.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these guys&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-12-15T21:41:43.150" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T21:41:43.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-15T22:36:13.893" Score="1" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you use them?&#xA;How do you use them?&#xA;How can I get some?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T02:44:31.053" Title="Hop extracts..." Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-12-15T22:37:33.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Using a glass carboy for fermentation instead of plastic pail&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially necessary for long-term secondary fermentations/maturing of beer in order to prevent oxidation since glass is not permeable by oxygen, whereas plastic is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-06-17T12:12:00.250" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T12:12:00.250" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-12-15T22:37:33.267" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1864" CreationDate="2010-12-15T22:46:09.140" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast needs 2 things to make alcohol and carbonation: o2 and fermentable solids. One simple thing I did that made a surprising amount of difference was to make sure that while I was bottling, I left the lids off for a little while after filling the bottles. This allows the yeast to replace the oxygen sitting in the pocket above with CO2. Less O2 for the yeast to use, less explosive openings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T22:46:09.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2956" CreationDate="2010-12-16T14:12:57.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used them. The amount of hops I need for my beers is never high enough to justify going for the extract. But if I wanted to make a super-high IBU high-gravity monster, I'd think about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-ingredients/hops/hopshot/hopshot.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Northern Brewer sells them&lt;/a&gt;. Seems like you can add it at any time during the boil. And the NB site links to a calculator you can use to determine IBUs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T14:12:57.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2971" CreationDate="2010-12-16T17:11:38.680" Score="5" ViewCount="1298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having issues with my Belgian Tripel not carbonating.  There is a small amount of sediment in the bottles, and I get a hiss when they're opened, but that's about it.  It's gotten cold in Virginia since I bottled, but I've tried to keep the temp at least at 66 (which is tough to do in a basement) and they've been bottled for 4 weeks now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long should I expect carbonation to take, given the cold conditions and the high gravity of the beer? For the first few days after bottling the temps were well south of 66, I'm guessing between 55 and 60, should I worry about this at all (the yeast used was WLP530 Abbey Ale Yeast)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2010-12-20T15:48:41.520" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T02:04:19.583" Title="Beer not carbonating" Tags="|beer|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2960" CreationDate="2010-12-16T17:13:31.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What was the OG and how long was it in the fermenter?  Those can both have an impact.  But I'm betting it's due to the cool temps and in another a week or 2 it will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T17:13:31.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2915" CreationDate="2010-12-16T17:36:18.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I brew, I usually will do a number of mini bottles. Like the OP, I'm not one for patience. :)&#xA; This allows me to have test bottles with minimal waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T17:36:18.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2966" CreationDate="2010-12-16T19:00:40.180" Score="5" ViewCount="7690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fermenting a porter, and pitched the yeast at about 75°F (24°C) on Sunday night (4 days ago).  Lively fermentation started the next day, and though the wort had cooled to about 68°F (20°C) the first night, the fermentation brought it up to 72-74°F (22-23°C).  There was 2 solid days of really active fermentation at this temperature.  However, there's been a couple really cold nights, and now the CO2 bubbling out has slowed dramatically.  The temperature got down to 65 yesterday, so I put a space heater near it, and it's now up to 76°F (24.5°C) - but the fermentation still seems really slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering how the swing in temperature is going to affect it - any thoughts?  Also, I'm going to be adding coffee and vanilla into secondary fermentation (in about another 4-5 days), how important is the controlling the temperature while in secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="798" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T12:40:19.923" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T12:40:19.923" Title="Temperature swing of 10+ degrees during fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|temperature|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2963" CreationDate="2010-12-16T19:12:52.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you measured the gravity?   Temperature swings like that can reduce attenuation, and also increase off flavors that you might not get if you slowly ramp the temperature up and hold it high.  Basically, cooling like that causes the yeast to flocculate out before they've had a chance to clean up some of the by-products (such as acetaldehyde) that they produce.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, that seems way too warm for fermenting a porter.   You may have been better off waiting to pitch until it was at 68 or lower, and not bothering with the space heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T19:12:52.247" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2963" CreationDate="2010-12-16T19:52:02.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature swings can create off flavors, but what you're doing doesn't seem too dramatic.  Any off flavors that were caused by that temp change will probably be unnoticeable.  That being said, temperature control is pretty important all the way through the brewing process, including secondary (but less so, I guess).  Anywho, if it's your first stab at a particular style you're probably not going to get it perfect, but it will still probably be a great brew.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T19:52:02.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2963" CreationDate="2010-12-16T19:59:25.047" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temp swings can cause problems, but temps as high as what you've got can cause even worse problems.  Keep in mind that fermentation is an exothermic process.  Therefore, you should chill your wort to below the temp you want to ferment at and then let it rise to the proper range.  Don't sacrifice beer quality and flavor for a short lag time or fast fermentation.  An easy way to control temps is to put the fermenter into a large tub of water.  The extra mass helps buffer thermal swings.  Then you can put an aquarium heater in the tub to warm it up or ice packs to cool it down.  Cheap'n'Easy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T19:59:25.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2969" CreationDate="2010-12-16T21:30:26.730" Score="7" ViewCount="15523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a batch of beer which was bottled last Saturday and a friend insisted I should shake them to assist in the conditioning.  He couldn't offer any particular reason, so I was curious if/when it should be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters, these bottles were batch-primed (I thought he may be thinking of ensuring all sugar is dissolved if it's bottle-primed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="687" LastEditDate="2010-12-16T21:44:06.543" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T18:25:29.210" Title="Should I shake bottles during conditioning?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|conditioning|shaking|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2967" CreationDate="2010-12-16T21:43:19.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I does help to shake the bottles when conditioning because it will help the yeast process the sugar faster and produce pressure in the head space that will eventually be the carbonation in your beer.  You should only have to do this the first few days of conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T21:43:19.803" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2967" CreationDate="2010-12-17T00:15:28.637" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother, but if you do, don't shake them hard, because it will denature some of the foam-producing proteins, and has a chance of reducing head retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be lazy and let it do its thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T00:15:28.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2963" CreationDate="2010-12-17T00:38:06.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to everyone else's comments, I would add that temperature swings within the first 72 hours are dangerous for the flavor of the beer, but outside of that window, the fermentation is mostly finished, in terms of volume, so it's harder to ruin the flavor.  It sounds like you were barely outside that window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you were definitely too warm for almost every strain you could've used for a porter, and as Denny mentioned, that's more worrisome than the delta - your beer might come out too fruity, estery, buttery, or have a number of other off-flavors.  To help mitigate this, you should make sure to keep the temperature high now that it's finishing so that the yeast will stay as active as possible.  This will be most helpful in cleaning up fermentation byproducts, especially buttery flavors from diacetyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your second question - temperature control during secondary is not critical.  If a yeast cake forms, try to keep it from getting too warm (above ~78°F), as this will speed autolysis of the dormant yeast.  Otherwise, anything should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T00:38:06.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2960" CreationDate="2010-12-17T13:07:58.303" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The beer is too cold right now especially with the higher than normal alcohol of a Tripel.  The high OG also suggests the yeast might just be totally worn out, and they might not me up to the task.  More yeast at bottling would have been appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just get them up to room temp for a week or so and see what happens. 70F-ish would be a good place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to experiment, jam one or two bottles behind the kitchen fridge where its pretty warm, or set them on top of your water heater.  Then taste one at one week more and see if its carbed up more.  Give it another week and test another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I'd suggest rousing the yeast by gently inverting the bottles to get the sediment back in suspension.  But do it gently.  AND only after your warm the bottles up.  Otherwise the yeast will still be cold and settle back to the bottom faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T13:07:58.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2967" CreationDate="2010-12-17T13:13:35.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general there is no reason to do this as it just prolongs the settling out of all the yeast.  If you had good yeast health going into the bottling phase all should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like to intervene with the process any more than necessary, unless something out of the ordinary occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bottles don't carb up, or they seem inconsistantly carbonated, or you over chill the bottle due to poor storage prior to carbing; these are times when I'll try to rouse the yeast.  But even then I wouldn't shake them.&#xA;Upside down with gently swirling would be the best way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A saftey note regarding glass and carbed bottles:  You really have no idea if a glass bottle is carbed up until you open it.  Its very conceivable that if you have some bottles that are flat and some that are carbed due to poor sugar distribution you might have some very highly carbed bottles sitting there along side flat ones.  Starting to shake them because one suspects the yeast is just not doing its job may lead to a burst bottle.  If a beer is overcarbed, and you agitate it, and rouse up all that wonderful nucleating yeast sediment in the bottle you could be create an explosive glass hand grenade.  So use a towel and cover each bottle if you suspect that type of danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T13:13:35.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2983" CreationDate="2010-12-17T14:13:58.563" Score="4" ViewCount="7941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have converted a chest freezer into a kegerator by building a wooden collar around the top and re-mounting the freezer lid on that. I installed four faucets in the front and have a hole in the back for the temperature probe. Everything works great, except I get a lot of condensation on the walls and pools of water on the floor of the kegerator. What is the best thing I could do to minimize or prevent all of this condensation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T05:03:08.630" Title="How do I prevent condensation in my kegerator?" Tags="|kegerator|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2973" CreationDate="2010-12-17T14:57:54.510" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing to use is a product called Damprid.  I think it's a silica based product that absorbs moisture in the air.  You can usually find it a places like home depot or lowes.  It comes in a tub like container and you just take the lid off and leave it in the freezer.  You can reuse the product by drying it out in the oven. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T14:57:54.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-17T16:18:37.767" Score="3" ViewCount="10886" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any fellow homebrewers out there have a suggestion on a current make/model minifridge (not full-sized fridge or chest freezer) that will fit 5-gallon corny kegs?  I've seen many suggestions of Frigidaire FRC445GB and Sanyo 4912M models but, like many others referenced online, they seem to be no longer manufactured.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for something simply to fit 2 corny kegs and a 5 lb CO2 tank.  What is currently available that I can buy new if my repeated searches for old models in want ads and Craigslist continue to be fruitless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T17:35:48.917" Title="List of current mini fridge makes/models that will fit 5-gallon kegs?" Tags="|kegerator|refrigerator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2978" CreationDate="2010-12-17T16:37:13.323" Score="3" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was curious how different &lt;em&gt;types&lt;/em&gt; of honey affect brewing.  Some aspects I'm interested in are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The floral-blend of honey -- blended vs unblended (e.g. 100% clover honey)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;processing -- raw (honey + honeycomb) vs unpasturized (granular and opaque) vs pasturized/clarified (golden-clear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T18:10:15.687" Title="Using different types of honey" Tags="|adjuncts|sugar|honey|honey-type|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2976" CreationDate="2010-12-17T16:43:55.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience orange blossom honey adds a great citrus note and is much less &quot;grassy&quot; than clover honey. It goes great in Amber Ales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T16:43:55.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2976" CreationDate="2010-12-17T17:14:48.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the quantities that honey is typically used, changing the variety of honey will have a slight effect on flavor and aroma, but little else.  Strained honey or raw honey might add a slight haze from pollen, but honeycomb, wax, and anything else should settle out during primary or secondary.  Ultrafiltered honey should have no effect on clarity.  Ultrasonicated honey will be more fermentable and have no wild yeast - so it will dry the beer and reduce the body more than non-ultrasonicated honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extent to which the flavor and aroma will also vary depending on when the honey is added.  Honey added during the boil will vary less than post-boil additions, as aromatics will be lost in the boil, and the honey will caramelize.  Additionally, hydroxymethylfurfural will form in boiled honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T17:14:48.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2975" CreationDate="2010-12-17T17:35:48.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought the &quot;Danby 4.4 cu. ft. Designer Series Compact All-Refrigerator&quot; from hhgregg (http://www.hhgregg.com/ProductDetail.asp?SID=n&amp;amp;ProductID=16331).  It works well but be advised you can only fit 2 kegs if you're using the taller/skinnier ones (8.5&quot; diameter).  Typically the ball lock kegs are this size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone posted some details for converting this particular fridge on the Northern Brewer forum:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?t=65288&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?t=65288&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T17:35:48.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2973" CreationDate="2010-12-17T17:39:48.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Condensation is probably due to humidity in the air whenever you open up the kegerator.  I'd recommend Damp-rid (or similar products as NBChris has already said).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If moisture is also getting in because the holes in the wood collar are too big for the hoses/cables, you may want to get some sort of gasket or sealing foam to keep outside air out (and inside air in).  That should cut down on both the condensation, and maybe even how much energy it consumes (since it's no longer leaking cooled air outside of the freezer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T17:39:48.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2976" CreationDate="2010-12-17T18:10:15.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are certain varietal honeys that can add a significant amount of flavor and aroma to a beer.  Buckwheat honey in particular has a very strong flavor and aroma even after fermentation.  There are certain wildflower and clover honeys that will also stand out.  If you would like more honey character to come through you need to choose a varietal that is strong to begin with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T18:10:15.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2985" CreationDate="2010-12-17T20:24:54.053" Score="7" ViewCount="957" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long is too long to condition a beer in secondary without having to pitch bottling yeast?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What factors do I need to consider when deciding whether or not to pitch yeast at bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T06:40:15.803" Title="How long is too long to condition a beer in secondary without having to pitch bottling yeast?" Tags="|bottling|conditioning|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2973" CreationDate="2010-12-17T21:04:27.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If condensation occurs and you don't open the door very often, then you have a problem with the seal or insulation.  Make sure that the door seals properly and the hole that your lines run though is not so large that lots of air can pass through.  Also, if you have a draft tower connected directly to the kegerator... insulate it.  Air leakage is more than likely the issue here; I would not simply purchase a moisture absorber, as this is a band-aid and does not fix the problem.  As stated in the post above mine, sealing the kegerator properly will prevent condensation and lower the energy consumption of the unit... not to mention increase the longevity of your kegerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="803" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T21:04:27.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2982" CreationDate="2010-12-17T21:24:10.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a couple of scottish ales that sat in both primary and secondary for a month (total of 2 months each), and they both carbonated with no additional yeast.   One was a 60/- and the other was a Wee-Heavy.   Neither of them was cooled below ~55F before I bottled, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say it depends on alcohol content and the amount of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; you want to put into the beer, though.  For something like a strong Saison or Belgian Golden Strong, where you want 3-4 volumes of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, it might be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T21:24:10.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2982" CreationDate="2010-12-18T16:31:13.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time is one factor and strength is another.  For average strength (up to maybe 1.070) beers, 2-3 months is no problem.  For beer over that very much, I'd add yeast at maybe 3 months of age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-18T16:31:13.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2986" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-18T19:22:14.963" Score="3" ViewCount="2329" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would you do differently if trying to brew a low-carb beer?  Could it be done with an extract brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:54:57.377" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T16:45:59.897" Title="How to brew a Low-Carb Beer?" Tags="|beer|nutrition|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2010-12-18T19:28:42.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would  be more difficult with extract than with AG, but it could be done.  In a nutshell, you brew a low OG beer (maybe in the 30s) then use amylase enzyme or something like Beano to get it to ferment out as much as possible to a very low FG, which will reduce residual sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-18T19:28:42.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2010-12-18T19:54:34.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without an additive to dry the beer, it will be about 45-55 percent carbs. It's obviously possible to brew a light beer by starting with an OG in the 1.030's, but to get it low carb, I would suggest adding a pound of honey or another 100% fermentable sugar. That will give the yeast a second wind, and it will pull the FG down to around half what it was before the addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this method, all-grain and extract will yield the same results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-18T19:54:34.210" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2991" CreationDate="2010-12-18T23:29:57.437" Score="5" ViewCount="1648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2973/how-do-i-prevent-condensation-in-my-kegerator&quot;&gt;trying to prevent condensation in my kegerator&lt;/a&gt;, and it seems that sealing it as good as possible is a great idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a chest freezer with a wooden collar where the faucets are installed and the lid is mounted on top of the collar. Should I use silicone caulk? Rope caulk? Aluminum tape? Should I insulate the wooden collar or are the boards good enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T02:04:15.470" Title="What is the best way to seal a kegerator?" Tags="|kegerator|insulation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2916" CreationDate="2010-12-19T00:21:04.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer to this question is that I buy a burner and do the brewing outside.  Its not perfect and does require some more $, but its an imperfect world and given that I live in Florida, I can brew outside year round.  I will just have to watch the forecast for rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T00:21:04.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2989" CreationDate="2010-12-19T02:04:15.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Condensation is usually caused by opening the kegerator and letting warmer, more humid air in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, getting a good seal and good insulation on your kegerator is important for keeping your energy usage to a minimum. After all, running a kegerator can be spendy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone or latex caulk are relatively easy to apply and give a good seal. Insulating the inside of your lumber is probably unnecessary. Wood is a fairly good insulator (look at log cabins - they use naked wood for insulation).  If you're uncertain if insulation is necessary, feel the outside of your kegerator. If any part feels particularly cold, insulation would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, though, wood and caulk are sufficient for good insulation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T02:04:15.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2995" CreationDate="2010-12-19T11:12:50.930" Score="8" ViewCount="7874" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this point I am using regular dishwashing liquid for cleaning my bottles. This is not perfect, I know and I think, I am seeing a detrimental effect on the foam, but I do not know a good alternative. Can you guys name any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="716" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T19:21:42.690" Title="Cleaning bottles - What's a good cleaning agent?" Tags="|bottles|cleaning|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2652" CreationDate="2010-12-19T11:39:15.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go with ale instead of the other option cider: &lt;a href=&quot;http://historicalfoods.com/9876/lambs-wool-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://historicalfoods.com/9876/lambs-wool-recipe/&lt;/a&gt;   ... its delicious hot or cold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Conner" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T11:39:15.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2992" CreationDate="2010-12-19T14:35:50.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a 15 minute soak in hot water and OxiClean Free.  Night before bottling, I run through the dishwasher on high-heat, heated dry with no soap.  So far, it has worked well, although I will likely be adding a sanitizer step in there somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T14:35:50.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2992" CreationDate="2010-12-19T15:11:57.037" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I soak in OxiClean Free, warm to hot water for 20 minutes or so.  Then, rinse thoroughly with hot water.  It helps to shake around the rinse water in the bottle, as OxiClean leaves a slick film that won't come right off unless you agitate the rinse water or use a scrub brush.  OxiClean is great at stripping off beer residue and also helps to remove the labels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other similar products that are brewing-specific include B-Brite and PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash).  PBW can be rinsed with cold water, which can be helpful if you find yourself using a lot of hot water in cleaning (or if say, your wife is doing laundry and dishes while you're trying to clean your bottles and you run out of hot water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After using any of the above to clean the bottles, it is still necessary to sanitize.  I finish by soaking in Iodophor for at least 20 minutes and letting them dry completely by hanging them upside-down on a bottle tree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T15:11:57.037" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2992" CreationDate="2010-12-19T16:29:54.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use either Oxiclean (the Oxiclean Versatile works as well as  the free and leaves no odors or residue) or PBW.  I did some tests and found that PBW works better than Oxiclean, but it close, and for the lower price Oxiclean is a great choice.  If you always rinse your bottles as soon as they're empty it makes cleaning them much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-04-08T15:37:54.677" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T15:37:54.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2967" CreationDate="2010-12-19T19:05:14.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One reason to try and keep the yeast in suspension is that a better contact between yeast and beer helps the yeast to decrease diacetyl. Depending on whether you have had a proper secondary fermentation before bottling, this could be important. I agree however with the security-concerns already mentioned further up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="716" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T19:05:14.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2992" CreationDate="2010-12-20T18:11:50.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used TSP(Trisodium Phosphate) in my carboids when they get a little crusty and it works well in the bottles too.  Should be available in most stores that carry paint.  Needs a good rinse after, and like others I give the bottles a run through the dishwasher without soap and sanitize with iodophor before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user813" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T18:11:50.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3005" CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:38:10.517" Score="14" ViewCount="19432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may be able to source enough raw honey to make a batch of mead from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any special concerns that I need to be aware of? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I don't boil it, should I use campden tablets to control any wild yeast and/or bacteria?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T11:08:47.547" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T11:08:47.547" Title="Concerns/Considerations for making mead with raw honey?" Tags="|mead|honey|honey-type|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3001" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3003" CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:41:18.580" Score="5" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up the ingredients for an IPA when I was getting the ingredients for a Milk Stout a while ago.  The plan was to have everything at the ready so I could make the IPA shortly after the stout.  Well, the Stout was made, but as is often the case, time conspired against me and I've not gotten to the IPA yet.  It's been about a month now, and I'm wondering if the yeast and hops I've got are no good now.  I don't recall the specific brand/strain of yeast, but it's a wet pack with an interior nutritional pouch (still intact) which you're supposed to rupture and mix prior to pitching.  The hops are pelletized and still in their sealed pouches, and everything is in the same bag I brought it home in at the back of the refrigerator.  More generally then this case though, I'm wondering what are considered acceptable hold times for these items when kept under refrigeration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T22:11:26.657" Title="Yeast and Hop Longevity" Tags="|yeast|hops|shelf-life|refrigeration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3001" CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:47:05.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're good.  I'm sure everything is still fine.  You did the right thing by keeping everything cold.  Before you brew, you can pop the pouch in the yeast and let it warm to room temeperature and it will swell, this will let you know that the yeast is viable.  I usually pop mine and let it sit out for 24 hours or so.  I personally, would brew with out any concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="596" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T19:47:05.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3001" CreationDate="2010-12-20T20:17:41.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wyeast says that the activator packs are good for up to 6 months after the production date.  Northern Brewer guarantees the packages for up to three months after production and will replace any packs that fail to inflate.  The inflation of the package is your viability test for the yeast, if it inflates you should have viable yeast.  For certain strains it can take a few days to fully inflate but most will be fully inflated in less than 12 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T20:17:41.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3000" CreationDate="2010-12-20T20:56:02.757" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the words of Dwight Schrute, &quot;That's debatable.  There are basically two schools of thought...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people swear that honey should never be heated, and others maintain that heating or chemical pasteurization is necessary.  Regardless of your stance, it's undeniable that heating honey destroys it's aroma and flavor, so it's best to minimize the amount of heat added.  Heating up to 37°C (98.6° F) causes loss of nearly 200 components, some of which are antibacterial. Heating up to 40°C (104° F) destroys invertase, an important enzyme. At 50°C (122° F), the honey sugars caramelize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do heat, you can follow this pasteurization table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature&lt;/strong&gt;    &lt;strong&gt;Time (min)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;123°F / 51°C             470&lt;br&gt;&#xA;130°F / 55°C              170&lt;br&gt;&#xA;135°F / 57°C              60&lt;br&gt;&#xA;140°F / 60°C              22&lt;br&gt;&#xA;145°F / 63°C              7.5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not heat pure honey, as it is difficult to keep it evenly mixed and at a uniform temperature.  Instead, mix it with warm water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose not to heat, you can add metabisulfate (Campden) if you're still nervous about wild yeast or bacteria in the honey.  However, many homebrewers don't pasteurize or add Campden to their honey, particularly when making meads and braggots.  Because honey is hydrophilic, most bugs can't grow in it, so the risk of contamination is low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T20:56:02.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3000" CreationDate="2010-12-20T22:11:11.777" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most micro organisms will not grow in honey due to it's low water activity rating of 0.6.  Bacteria needs at least 0.91 and fungi needs .7 water activity to grow.  The water activity of distilled water is exactly 1.  Most honey should be fine for making mead without heating.  You do need to be aware that if it starts to separate the water activity has changed due to outside moisture and it may be able to support bacteria.&#xA;I have made many meads and have never heated or used campden tablets without any infections.  As long as your fermentation is strong and healthy you shouldn't have any problems with bacteria from raw honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T22:11:11.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3001" CreationDate="2010-12-20T22:11:26.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used Wyeast smack packs as old as 3 1/2 years and they worked fine.  Just keep it cold in the fridge til you're ready to use it.  And, for your own sake, make a starter with it.  See mrmalty.com for instructions.  Keep the hops in their original packing in the freezer til you use them and they'll stay good for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T22:11:26.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3008" CreationDate="2010-12-21T17:31:09.843" Score="4" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm searching for a grain mill with specific qualities.  Ideally I'd like it to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mill grain for home brewing &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mill grain to the consistency of flour for making bread&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be able to be operated manually ( this item will double as  disaster preparedness item for accounting purposes to the boss, my wife)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;optionally may have some sort of motor attached to it for quicker milling or have a removable handle such that I can jerry rig a motor to drive the mill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any mill that fits these specifications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize some may think this is a duplicate, but I'm asking for one specific sub-type of a grain mill -- not grain mills fit for brewing in general as in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5/best-way-to-mill-grains&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/771/can-i-use-my-country-living-grain-mill-for-homebrewing&quot;&gt;posts&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="799" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2010-12-21T17:48:17.753" Title="What are great grain mills that have variable coarseness such that it can be used for both brewing and making bread flour?" Tags="|mill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3007" CreationDate="2010-12-21T17:48:17.753" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There really aren't any mills that do a good job of both crushing grain for brewing and grinding it for bread.  You have to sacrifice the performance of one or the other.  The problem is that you're talking about 2 different end products.  Grain for brewing needs to be crushed, and while you can crush it fine (I do) you don't want to completely pulverize it and turn it to flour.  Which of course is what you need a mill for bread to do!  You can use about any mill to do both jobs, but one or the other will be sub optimal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-21T17:48:17.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2242" CreationDate="2010-12-21T17:52:58.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what the gap on my mill is set to, and I don't really care.  Learn what a good crush looks like and how it acts in the mash tun, and settings won't matter to you.  Not to mention, a setting that works with one person's system might not work for another's.  Keep in mind that you're making grist, not gaps!  The finer you mill your grain, the higher your efficiency will be.  I advise you to keep reducing the gap slightly every time you brew.  If you have runoff problems open it back up a bit next time.  Take a good look at your grist at that point and you'll know what you;re looking for from then on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-21T17:52:58.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2027" CreationDate="2010-12-21T20:01:06.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It likely has to do with the fact that there is more yeast in bottle conditioned beer than in force carbed beer.  The extra yeast scavenges oxygen and extends the shelf life of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-21T20:01:06.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3012" CreationDate="2010-12-22T01:07:19.513" Score="4" ViewCount="2547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I set up my Blow tube as I have done other times before, (the same as pictured in this post &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1747/what-is-a-proper-blow-off-tube-setup&quot;&gt;What is a proper blow-off tube setup?&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time though when I checked it after after about 24 hours the yeast was going to town giving me a bubble about every second and it had siphoned about a gallon of my wort from the carboy into the bucket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea as to what would cause this result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2010-12-23T22:40:54.510" Title="Beer Lost Through Blow Off Tube" Tags="|blow-off|blow-off-tube|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3011" CreationDate="2010-12-22T03:48:10.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very active yeast and/or an overfull fermentor.   You could also have the tube jammed too far into the fermentor.   It just needs to be in far enough to not get forced out from the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some yeast just habitualy blow-off a lot, too.  I had 2.5 gallons of starter wort and Wyeast 3787 in a 5 gallon carboy that blew off a little bit.   Everyone I know has issues with that particular strain blowing off, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a fairly regular occurence for me, and it will still make great beer.  Just make sure you're blowing off into something with enough volume to contain the mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2010-12-22T03:56:35.340" LastActivityDate="2010-12-22T03:56:35.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3011" CreationDate="2010-12-23T22:40:54.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be using a 6+ gallon carboy for a 5 gallon batch of beer for this reason. There needs to be enough room for the thing to kreusen up without blowing everything out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2010-12-23T22:40:54.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-11T22:21:12.327" Score="9" ViewCount="3658" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that my homebrew will be done fermenting while I am out of town.  Is there any harmful effects if I don't bottle it until a few days after the fermentation process stops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="aterrel" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:24:20.087" LastActivityDate="2019-12-15T23:22:30.517" Title="Bottling homebrew late" Tags="|beer|cider|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3017" CreationDate="2010-09-11T22:53:13.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your beer hasn't been contaminated with bacteria (which won't happen if it's sealed), there is absolutely no harm in bottling it late.  In fact, some (specialty) beers are aged after fermentation and before bottling (e.g. in oak barrels). Nothing changes about bottling--you still add the same amount of priming sugar, for example, and it will still need just as long to age in the bottle before drinking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="kevins" LastActivityDate="2010-12-25T16:56:53.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-07-17T16:25:26.943" Score="9" ViewCount="2971" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking to make something really tasty, and also non-alcoholic. Is this possible to achieve at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="CodeToGlory" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T17:39:35.257" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T17:39:35.257" Title="How can I make homemade ginger ale?" Tags="|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3019" CreationDate="2010-07-17T20:34:32.760" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two ways to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To make &quot;real&quot; ginger ale, you actually ferment it using an appropriate recipe and either a baking yeast or an ale yeast. This gives it the carbonation and the proper flavor. Very tasty, slightly tricky, but unavoidable to make it very mildly alcoholic.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To make what's sold in stores as ginger ale (which is completely non-alcoholic), you actually make a ginger syrup, then carbonate it with soda water.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of recipes on google for either technique. Personally I prefer making a real homebrew ginger ale, and with the right yeast and a lower amount of initial sugar you can keep it very low on the alcohol content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Gabriel Hurley" LastActivityDate="2010-12-25T17:04:02.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3019" CreationDate="2010-08-14T16:07:23.177" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basic, carbonated beverages made using yeast will technically have a bit of alcohol, but VERY little when compared to beer, much less wine or hard liquor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever yeast is in a liquid that has sugar in it, it consumes the sugar and leaves behind some alcohol and a lot of carbon dioxide bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For beer and wine brewing, the carbon dioxide is vented off for most of the process, leaving the alcohol behind in a relatively &quot;still&quot; liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, if you want carbonation, when the yeast has eaten all of the sugar in the liquid, a tiny bit more sugar is added and the beer and the whole thing either bottled up or put into a sealed keg. That sealed container will then force the carbon dioxide that the yeast produce while eating that &quot;priming sugar&quot; right into the beer, giving you the carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For soda, you can effectively skip the step where you turn all of the sugar into alcohol and just do the bit that turns a tiny bit of the sugar into bubbles. This does result in a tiny amount of alcohol, but so does making bread :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix up your base sugary liquid, which in this case, I'd go with grated ginger, some lemon juice and something like a cup of sugar per 2 liters or quarts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pour that into, for example, a 2 liter soda bottle and add a packet of yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seal the lid and set in a room temperature area or slightly warmer. I tend to put this kind of setup on top of my refrigerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a couple of days, check in on it by seeing how firm the bottle gets. It should start out with some &quot;give&quot; and start getting so it's less easy to squeeze it. When the bottle is no longer &quot;squeezable&quot;, put it into the refrigerator for another couple of days. This will stop the yeast from consuming any more sugar and let them die off and drift to the bottom of the bottle along with your grated ginger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there, you can drink it like you would any other soda. This approach works with pretty much any high-sugar beverage you want, as long as it doesn't have preservatives in it. Preservatives will prevent the yeast from doing their thing. It can also work with &quot;diet&quot; beverages too. Just sweeten with stevia or similar and then put in a couple of teaspoons of sugar per gallon. The yeast will use the sugar and your final beverage will have very few calories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do the forced carbonation version instead at home with household ingredients too, though the carbonation achieved this way is less &quot;deep&quot;. Beverages with brewed-in carbonation have MANY more tiny little bubbles than you can easily get with forced carbonation. That's because the carbon dioxide is more dissolved in the brewed liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, to force carbonate at home, take 2, 2 liter soda bottles and drill holes in the caps. Put a bit of tubing into those holes to connect the 2 bottles, making sure the tubing fits without a gap (I sealed mine on the outside with silicone sealant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the one bottle, put your beverage. In the other, put a cup of vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a few tablespoons of baking soda, drop it into the vinegar and quickly seal up both bottles. The baking soda/vinegar reaction produces carbon dioxide much more quickly than yeast and sugar does and will force that CO2 along the tube into the other bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let it sit for a bit and then replace the &quot;tube cap&quot; on the beverage bottle with a normal cap and put the beverage in the refrigerator to enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" OwnerDisplayName="J Wynia" LastActivityDate="2010-12-25T17:04:02.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3019" CreationDate="2010-08-14T16:14:57.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's Alton Brown's recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/ginger-ale-recipe/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/ginger-ale-recipe/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast will produce minute amounts of alcohol, but it's nothing to worry about.  I would let any kid drink this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really worried about it, just mix the syrup with some club soda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="haydenmuhl" LastActivityDate="2010-12-25T17:04:02.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3019" CreationDate="2010-08-16T13:47:53.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recent article at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thekitchn.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the kitchn&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thekitchn.com/thekitchn/recipe-review/try-this-easy-homemade-ginger-ale-124371&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thekitchn.com/thekitchn/recipe-review/try-this-easy-homemade-ginger-ale-124371&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Peter" LastActivityDate="2010-12-25T17:04:02.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-06T01:12:35.290" Score="12" ViewCount="12681" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend gave us a bottle of homemade red wine a year ago. (They're Italian and they make wine every year).  It's been sitting in our dining room, stored on its side.  We started to notice that the cork was starting to push itself out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We uncorked it, poured a few glasses and tasted it. It still tastes fine, but the wine has a little fizz to it. I drank a small glass 30 minutes ago and I still seem fine.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is there some fizz to it? Is it still safe to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the signs of a bottle of wine that is not safe to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="milesmeow" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2010-12-27T19:23:36.640" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T01:30:02.423" Title="Cork in red wine starting to push itself out. Is it still safe to drink?" Tags="|wine|food-safety|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3024" CreationDate="2010-09-06T06:41:52.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presence of a fizz depends on wine production methods. Intentionally or not there might be fizz in it. I guess your friend has presented you with a bottle of sparkling wine.&#xA;I'm not a sommelier but after drinking quite a lot of different young/sparkling wines I can tell that the only problem occurred - (very rarely) slight indigestion if the wine was too young.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2075" OwnerDisplayName="Roman Protsiuk" LastActivityDate="2010-12-25T17:06:59.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3024" CreationDate="2010-09-06T08:09:03.957" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like it was bottled, intentionally or otherwise, with sugar present in the wine. The residual yeast digested this sugar turning it into alcohol and CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, providing the fizz. It's safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wine generally doesn't get &quot;unsafe&quot;, it goes bad. As wine is exposed to oxygen it turns to vinegar. This is safe but unpleasant to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" OwnerDisplayName="hobodave" LastActivityDate="2010-12-25T17:06:59.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3024" CreationDate="2010-09-06T13:55:06.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beyond the answers presented above, there is an additional type of fermentation besides the fermentation of sugar to alcohol.  This fermentation is called malolactic fermentation and can look like a fermentation of sugar to alcohol.  It happens when some of the malic acid is being converted to lactic acid.  This is usually good for your wine.  It's also usually done before bottling, but as a novice home winemaker I can testify that there's a lot of variables in the process!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="justkt" LastActivityDate="2010-12-25T17:06:59.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3024" CreationDate="2010-09-06T14:13:36.763" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, part of &lt;a href=&quot;https://cooking.stackexchange.com/users/60/hobodave&quot;&gt;hobodave&lt;/a&gt;s answer is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fermentation does not stop when there is no sugar left in the wine, but when the condition for the yeast that eat the sugar and produce alcohol and CO2 do not permit it to live there any longer / multiply at a sufficient rate. usually, this happens &lt;strong&gt;not due to lack of sugar&lt;/strong&gt;, but to the rise in the &lt;strong&gt;alcohol concentration&lt;/strong&gt; of the wine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start with grape juice that is very sweet, a lot of the sugar will still be left in the wine and you get a sweet wine. If you start with a low amount of sugar you get a dry wine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other main control mechanism for the fermentation is acidity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if after the largest part of the fermentation, the yeast is not completely removed from the wine, the fermentation will continue at a very slow speed, making your wine fizzy if bottled in this state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, wine does rot and the cork gets to smell just as horrible as the wine does. Do not worry, the wine is absolutely horrible and is in no way drinkable. It is impossible to mistake it for something &quot;still ok to consume&quot; :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Bogdan Belcea" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:33:38.137" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T01:30:02.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3017" CreationDate="2010-12-26T17:05:58.623" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most &quot;conventional&quot; homebrewing literature has you moving beer way to soon, IMO.  You can almost never go wrong waiting longer.  You can easily wait a month or more for beer in the fermenter without harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-26T17:05:58.623" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3032" CreationDate="2010-12-27T15:30:27.960" Score="15" ViewCount="5935" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a late hopped extract beer later tonight.  (Jamil's Evil Twin as posted &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.htm&lt;/a&gt;)  He suggests at 90 minute boil with the first hop addition coming 20 minutes before the end of boil.  Since I'm doing the extract plus grains version of it, is boiling for that long necessary?  Why or why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="690" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T07:53:07.080" Title="Is a long boil with extract necessary?" Tags="|boil|extract|extract-plus-grains|hops|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3030" CreationDate="2010-12-27T15:45:29.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always did at least a 1hr boil when doing an extract brew (with various hop additions).  It can take ~20min. for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Hot_break&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hot break&lt;/a&gt; to occur, depending on the amount of protein in your extract.  It is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter7-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recommended&lt;/a&gt; that you wait until the hot break occurs before doing your first hop addition and timing an hour. In your case you should be safe adding your hops after the hot break, boiling for 20 additional minutes, then cooling, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="803" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T15:45:29.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3030" CreationDate="2010-12-27T16:33:50.590" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, the long boil is intended to increase melanoidin formation (&quot;kettle carmelization&quot;) and decrease DMS in wort with a lot of pilsener malt.  The former appears to be the case, here:   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;While you could go with a shorter&#xA;  boil, the 90 minute boil enhances the&#xA;  blood-red color. It also adds a touch&#xA;  more melanoidin and caramel notes.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not necessary, but it will add some nice flavor and color characteristics that you might not get otherwise.   The sugars in the extract will still darken and go through the maillard reactions, just the same as an all grain version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2010-12-29T20:37:40.440" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T20:37:40.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3030" CreationDate="2010-12-27T17:45:15.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling longer than 60 min. is generally not necessary for extract beers.  Hot break occurred when the extract was produced, so break in the kettle will be little to none.  Buit a 60 min. boil makes sure you get the maximum utilization from your bittering hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T17:45:15.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2992" CreationDate="2010-12-27T19:57:24.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diversol is a great cleaning / sanitizing agent, but it requires a 20-minute soak (unless you mix it at contact-sanitizing strength) and a rinse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T19:57:24.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3017" CreationDate="2010-12-27T22:48:19.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: After seeing the comment regarding contamination, and researching some more, I believe I agree that my off flavor must be due to wild yeast contamination.  My downfall must have been a combination of weak yeast pitched directly from packet without starter and plastic PET carboys with liquid fermlocks that probably either went dry or sucked water back in, contaminating the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of information, and people discussing multiple factors regarding this, and I don't know enough of the science to speak to that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience of 3 years and roughly 30 all-grain brews, I have never, until my last 20 gallons, failed to bottle at about 2 weeks, give or take a few days.  My last batch was bottled at a little over 4 weeks, and had a flavor my friends and I now refer to as band-aid flavor, and we've come to expect this from the 3 or so brews we have allowed to sit that long in primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This off flavor mellowed with time, but contributed to my two least favorite brews in my time brewing.  The total was 10 gallons pale ale, 10 gallons Belgian strong, both recipes I had brewed before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't defend all the reasons, but in my circle of brewers, we avoid going much more than 2 weeks in primary, all things being equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2010-12-29T18:43:21.193" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T18:43:21.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="249" CreationDate="2010-12-28T18:13:39.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheat malt is easily able to convert itself without further diastatic power form other malts.  Unmalted wheat does need help, though.  And these days, 2 row malt has nearly the same diastatic power as 6 row.  The notion that 6 row is necessary to help other malts convert is outdated.  The reason you see barley malt in most wheat beer recipes is for flavor, not enzymes.  An all wheat beer is very bland and insipid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2010-12-29T14:25:05.100" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T14:25:05.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3041" CreationDate="2010-12-29T14:33:55.730" Score="3" ViewCount="1526" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where do melanoidins come from in beer?  What characteristics do they bring to beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T20:12:42.870" Title="Melanoidins in beer" Tags="|flavor|boil|color|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3039" CreationDate="2010-12-29T16:56:01.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Melanoidins are created by Maillard reactions, but melanoidins themsleves add only color, not flavor to beer.  The Maillard reactions that create melaniodins are what cause the flavors.  Wort does not caramelize in the kettle.  Caramelization requires temps in excess of 360F and exposure to O2, neither of which happens in the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T16:56:01.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3044" CreationDate="2010-12-29T17:03:32.507" Score="4" ViewCount="3069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting ready for my first all-grain batch.  I got a copy of my township's water report and sat down to use it in conjunction with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;graphs in How to Brew&lt;/a&gt; to determine what colors of beer I can make without pH adjustments and if I want to make other beers, what adjustments I need to make.  The problem is the water report doesn't list the Magnesium content.  This data is crucial to using the charts.  I've emailed my township to try to get the info, but I'm not sure I'll hear back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I don't know the Mg content of my water and thus can't predict my mash pH, can I just measure the pH of the mash using a pH meter and adjust accordingly?  Is taking a measurement actually better than estimating based on the water report?  When should I take the measurement - after doughing in?  After X minutes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to How to Brew, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;brewing water is adjusted with salts before you begin mashing&lt;/a&gt;.  If I can't predict my mash pH and instead have to measure it after starting the mash, how should I add the adjusting salts?  Should I mix them into a pint or so of water then stir them into the mash as well as I can?  If so, should I consider the start of the mash timer to be when I've adjusted the pH?&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="430" LastEditDate="2010-12-29T18:19:42.070" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T18:37:24.787" Title="When should you measure and adjust mash pH?" Tags="|mashing|chemistry|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3042" CreationDate="2010-12-29T18:37:24.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 reasons to adjust your water...to get the proper pH and to add minerals necessary for yeast health and beer flavor. To do the former, you can simply measure the pH with a meter or papers, then empirically add salts until you achieve the desired pH. You don't pretreat the water because it's the mash pH you're concerned with, not the water pH. In addition, many salts will not dissolve in water and must be added to the mash. Wait about 5 min. after mashing in, them check the pH. But really, you should have a decent water report before you start messing with water chemistry. If you can't get one form your township, a great source it www.wardlab.com. Get test W-6 for $16.50 and it will tell you everything you need to know about your water. Keep in mind that depending on what buffers are already in your water, different types of additions may produce different results. That's why a complete water report is so important. With a water report, you'll not only have info you need to treat pH effectively, but you'll also be aware of mineral profiles that can affect the flavor of your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T18:37:24.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3039" CreationDate="2010-12-29T18:40:28.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The very first BrewStrong episode was &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/Brew-Strong-08-04-08-Melanoidins&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;all about melanoidins&lt;/a&gt;. Very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T18:40:28.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3049" CreationDate="2010-12-29T20:46:10.637" Score="3" ViewCount="4111" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the Maillard Reaction?   What does it do for my beer?   What can I do to encourage or discourage it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2010-12-30T17:24:37.183" Title="What is the Maillard reaction, and why should I care what a duck thinks?" Tags="|beer|boil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3046" CreationDate="2010-12-29T21:42:39.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without fully answering your question, the Maillard Reaction is a chemical process that foods undergo as they're cooked.  In general it's visibly seen as the browning of foods as they heat, and is responsible for generating rich and complex flavors.  In cooking, the product of the reaction is nicknamed &quot;GBD&quot; or &quot;Golden brown delicious&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of beer, the reaction is important when barley is malted (the browning which occurs is partly due to the reaction), as well as during the boiling of the wort.  During the boil the rim of the pan will develop a brownish sludge, which--if stirred into the wort--will impart it's flavor which can be significantly different than the raw wort flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, as I'm not an expert, I won't try to advise whether you should or shouldn't encourage the reaction (I'm very curious for other input though)--but I can assure you the effect of the reaction plays a significant role in the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T21:42:39.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2010-12-29T23:11:56.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lower hops AND darker than expected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using extract, consider adding only about half of the extract at the start of the boil.  The gravity of the wort will affect both the amount of carmelization (darkness) and hop utilization that the boil has.  I typically use 2 cans/bottles of 3# (ish) of malt, add 1 in the beginning, and add the second about 15 minutes left in the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T23:11:56.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3046" CreationDate="2010-12-30T08:40:39.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To augment STW's answer, a Maillard reaction is a browning chemical reaction between an amino acid and a sugar.  Heat encourages these reactions.  Carmelization is an example of a Maillard reaction, although there are others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These reactions are responsible for the flavor of the crust of bread, as well as most nutty, caramel, and toffee notes in beer.  These flavors are the result of compounds known as melanoidins, one of the byproducts of Maillard reactions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In certain styles, such as bocks, dunkelweizens, and especially doppelbocks, these flavors are desirable.  They can also often be found in barley wines.  In other styles, however, they may be less desirable, or even a flaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most effective methods of encouraging melanoidin production is a decoction mash.  This will not only produce melanoidins in the mash, but will encourage further production in the boil.  Other factors that increase melanoidin production are higher temperatures, a pH in the 5.0 - 5.4 range, and higher levels of amino acids.  There is also a Melanoidin malt on the market for bootsing melanoidin flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the concentration of the wort will promote carmelization, but Maillard reactions will occur whether the liquid is concentrated or dilute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mallard&lt;/strong&gt; reactions, on the other hard, are usually a result of late-boil fowl additions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-12-30T08:40:39.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3053" CreationDate="2010-12-30T17:08:32.810" Score="5" ViewCount="775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some feedback.  I usually do kit brews for now but I am looking to get into building my own recipes.  This is my first go around on that.  I want to do an oatmeal stout and I'd like to keep it creamy and chocolately and not bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just want to get some of your opinions?  Where and I screwing up here?  What would you do differently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any pro tips here to brewing/creating oatmeal stouts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&#xA;~ Tom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewershub.com/recipes/toms-oatmeal-stout-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brewershub.com/recipes/toms-oatmeal-stout-2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partial Mash Recipe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Batch size: 5.0 Gallons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil size: 3.0 Gallons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Original gravity: 1.059&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Final gravity: 1.015&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Abv: 5.8 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color: 40.0 SRM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bitterness: 31.0 IBU&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steeping efficiency: 75.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ingredients:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.0 ounce Goldings Hops 60 min boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 ounce Fuggle Hops    45 min boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.0 pound Dry Malt Extract - Light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.15 pound Liquid Malt Extract - Dark&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.75 pound Chocolate Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 pound Roasted Barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 pound Biscuit Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.0 pound Flaked Oats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.0 pound Maris Otter Pale Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.0 packet Wyeast NB NeoBritannia (1945)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-09-12T09:22:31.973" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T12:40:07.220" Title="Looking for Feedback on an Oatmeal Stout Recipe" Tags="|stout|recipe|oats|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3046" CreationDate="2010-12-30T17:24:37.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add some further information, maillard reactions continue to happen even after the beer is bottled.  Beers that are cellared will continue to darken and change in complexity due to the maillard reactions.  They also can create properties that stale the beer.  So there is a fine line in cellaring between adding complexity and adding stale characteristics.  Since heat is a factor in the maillard reaction the temperature that you store your beer at affects how fast the beer will stale.  You can thus extend the drinkability life of a beer by storing it at refrigerator temps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2010-12-30T17:24:37.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3050" CreationDate="2010-12-30T18:55:24.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to be aware that flaked oats (or any flaked grains) can't be steeped.  They need to be mashed with a diastatic malt to convert the starches into fermentable sugar.  Unfortunately, the 1/4 lb. of MO you have in there isn't enough to do that.  with 2 lb. of flaked oats. I'd use at least 1.5 lb. of MO or a good domestic pale malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-30T18:55:24.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="458" CreationDate="2010-12-30T18:57:52.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other thing to consider is your water.  Hoppy beers like IPA really benefit from an elevated sulfate level to accentuate the hops.  You might try adding a tsp. of gypsum to the kettle next time to see if it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-30T18:57:52.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1968" CreationDate="2010-12-31T15:31:54.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the nitrogen does is allow the beer to be pushed at a higher pressure than CO2 would, since nitrogen is much less soluble than CO2.  It's this higher pressure that contributes to the head and &quot;creamy&quot; mouthfeel, since the high pressure pour strips out much of the carbonation.  Many years ago, before Guinness used nitro, the 6 packs came with a syringe.  You'd suck up some beer and shoot it back into the glass in order to create the same effect.  It's this high pressure pour, much moreso than any ingredients, that creates the classic head and mouthfeel of Guinness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-12-31T15:31:54.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-01T15:11:10.660" Score="11" ViewCount="8716" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dishwasher has a built in rinse agent dispenser that it claims must be filled for every use, besides I have no clue how to empty it once it is filled. Can I still run my bottles in the dishwasher without detergent? Also why can't you use the dishwashing detergent for a dishwasher? My dishwasher also has a sanitize cycle that automatically occurs would that be good enough for bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Bruce&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Bruce Martin" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T14:45:21.110" Title="Can I use a dishwasher that has rinse agent to sanitize my bottles?" Tags="|bottles|cleaning|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3056" CreationDate="2011-01-01T16:21:23.190" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dishwasher detergent is generally not recommended because most detergents have perfumes and rinse agents.  The perfumes tend to stay on the glass until a thorough hand-rinse, and the surfactants in rinse agents destroy your beer's head and lacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can run the dishwasher without any of these (I'm not sure from your description if that's possible), the sanitize cycle should be sufficient for bottles.  However, unless your model is NSF certified for sanitization, I would be somewhat leery of the sanitize cycle.  It might be a good idea to test a handful of bottles side-by-side with bottles that have been cleaned and soaked in a standard sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of which, you can always rely on StarSan, One Step, or any other no-rinse solution.  As long as your bottles aren't growing fuzzies, a quick soak is all that's needed, and you can skip the dishwasher altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-01-01T16:21:23.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3056" CreationDate="2011-01-02T23:23:38.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was bottling, I frequently used beer-brite in lieu detergent and had no problems at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="803" LastActivityDate="2011-01-02T23:23:38.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3062" CreationDate="2011-01-03T08:57:42.027" Score="3" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to macerate some fruit to make sweet liqueur (first attempt), and am using the generic instructions from homedistiller.org:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fruit Liqueur&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Place cleaned fruit in a large jar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Add alcohol (50%abv) to cover fruit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Seal and macerate for 10 days. The fruit soaks up the alcohol and releases some juice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;First racking. Gently pour off liquid so as not to blemish fruit. Layer fruit in jar with sugar (cover most of fruit).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Seal jar. The sugar makes the fruit release the alcohol and shrivel slightly. In a couple of days the level of juice in the jar should reach almost to the top of the fruit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Second racking. Pour off liquid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Layer fruit again with sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Third racking. Pour off liquid. Repeat process until only a very small amount of juice is released.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each racking is sweeter and sweeter. Blend the different rackings to get the desired strength and sweetness. The leftover makes a great syrup for ice-cream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know is whether or not I should be chopping the fruit up into large chunks, or doing it whole? Logic would suggest that chopping gives a greater surface area, but it might not be that simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it changes the answer, I'm doing one lot with Pear and another with Apples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="676" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T17:09:25.947" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T17:09:25.947" Title="Fruit Liqueur- Chop Fruit?" Tags="|liquor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3061" CreationDate="2011-01-03T14:25:05.967" Score="6" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to do my first partial mash and I have been seeing instructions for using a mash thickness anywhere from 1 to 1.5 quarts of water per pound (per 450g).  What does the thickness of a mash change?  Are there any calcuations that need to be adjusted based on this thickness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, does changing the ratio of the sparge water to pounds of grain change anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically do a 5 gallon (19 litre)  batch and a 3 gallon (11 litre) boil (do not have the equipment for a full boil yet).  What is a typical ratio.  I have read that a thicker mash will provide a fuller body and sweeter taste.  However the tradeoff I've seen is that the sugars may not ferment fully, is that accurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is recommended for a beginner partial masher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;~ Tom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T14:01:26.487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T14:01:26.487" Title="Does mash thickness make a difference in any calculations?" Tags="|mash|partial-mash|mash-thickness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3060" CreationDate="2011-01-03T14:52:19.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While many people cite the changes in body and fermentability that can come with changes in water to grist ratios, the impact from 1qt/lb (~ 2l/kg) changing to 1.5 qt/lb (3l/kg) is not noticeable at all, IMO.  I have only noticed the impact when going from 1qt/lb to 3 or more qt/lb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main concern with calculations is that if you are batch sparging you can expect a larger run off volume with more water in the mash (obviously).  That only comes into play as you are calculating (estimating) your sparge water for the second runnings.  (I supposed this also plays into ohm much sparge water is need for a fly sparge set up too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are just getting started with partial mashes, don't fret over this too much yet, its a small small trivial factor in the final beer.  Stay focused on hitting proper mash temp constantly and getting good sparges.  Stick with one water to grist ratio too, like 1.5qt/lb, for your next several batches.  Its about consistency at this point in the learning curve.  The fewer variables you mess with the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T14:01:18.453" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T14:01:18.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3059" CreationDate="2011-01-03T15:15:02.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You almost certainly want to cut up the apples / pears. Minimally, you don't want to inadvertently extract any flavorings from the seeds, but you also won't get any juice to be extracted through osmosis without exposing the fruit. You don't need to slice as thin as if you were preparing the fruit for drying, but you do want small pieces or slices that will stack well, and - as you surmised - yield a larger surface area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T15:15:02.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3066" CreationDate="2011-01-03T20:57:36.793" Score="6" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing an IPA that calls for the addition of hops when I rack to secondary.  I have pelletized hops still sealed in their plastic packaging and I'm wondering if they can be added to the secondary directly or if anything needs to be done to them first from a sanitation standpoint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T22:24:06.920" Title="Hopping In Secondary" Tags="|hops|sanitation|dry-hop|ipa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3064" CreationDate="2011-01-03T21:18:39.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, add them directly.  Hops are supposedly antibacterial.  In addition, the alcohol content and low pH of the beer makes it resistant to infection at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T21:18:39.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3064" CreationDate="2011-01-03T22:24:06.920" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to do anything to sanitize the hops.  By the time your beer is going into a secondary, the alcohol and pH make it very resistant to infections.  Just make sure to use a fine mesh bag.  I didn't do that during my first attempt at dry hopping and it was almost impossible to get all of the hop particles out of the finished beer :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T22:24:06.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1659" CreationDate="2011-01-04T17:29:59.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a BJCP judge who teaches judge training classes.  One way we teach off flavors is to use a kit to doctor other beers.  Staling can take a few different forms.  The most common, oxidation, is often described as a &quot;wet cardboard&quot; flavor and aroma, which is pretty accurate.  Another clue to staling is darkening of the beer, or a kind of weird caramel aroma and flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T17:29:59.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="833" CreationDate="2011-01-04T17:42:18.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many beers also taste different from how they smell, and so you get the full experience of the beer by smelling it first.   That difference can be quite substantial in a sour beer or one fermented with brettanomyces (A sour/malty/goaty flavor combined with the scent of bad feet or good cheese).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smell of a beer can also be an indicator of quality.  If it doesn't smell good, you might not want to drink it.   If I smell horseblanket in my ESB, I know something somewhere has gone horribly wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T17:42:18.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1728" CreationDate="2011-01-04T18:52:13.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember that to denature enzymes, you need to hold that 170+ temp for 20 min. or more.  Few homwebrewers do that.  While it was once thought that hotter sparge water reduced the viscosity of the wort leading to easier runoff and increased efficiency, that  has been pretty well disproven by the work of Kai Troester (www.braukaiser.com).  What does happen (and does increase efficiency) is that the higher temp leads to a more complete mash conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T18:52:13.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="833" CreationDate="2011-01-04T20:02:33.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Many aromatics in beer are quite volatile and tend to dissipate rapidly. Quickly sniff a beer after it’s poured to detect these. Also note how the aroma changes over time.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is from the article written by Gordon Strong (BJCP President) on Beer Evaluation for the Homebrewers Association.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To read the full article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/1270/JAZym04_JUDGE.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/1270/JAZym04_JUDGE.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="743" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T20:02:33.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2223" CreationDate="2011-01-04T20:28:06.993" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew with totally an induction system. 3 1500W cooktops, burton.  One takes care of my HLT, the other 2 are on my 24 Gallon boilpot.  It takes approx 1 hour to get to a 12 gallon full boil using the 2 cooktops.  Better is the cost, at $0.08/KWh, I spend all of $0.48 for the one hour to get to a boil and the 1 hour boil.  Not getting there with propane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Michael Manna" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T20:28:06.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1335" CreationDate="2011-01-05T16:04:48.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a 2-bed, 1 1/2 bath townhouse-style condo.  Thanks to the graciousness of my roomate, the downstairs 1/2 bath doubles as the brewery.  The main benefits of it (in my case) are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ground floor location + Slab foundation = steady baseline temp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No windows, easy to keep light out (the carboys are still covered with inverted boxes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electric auxilery heater makes it easy to bump the temp up to a steady 68f&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A decent amount of floorspace given the dimensions of the room&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started with Mr Beer kits, and have switched out my equipment to 2x 3-gallon carboys.  This lets me do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5-gallon batches, divided into 2x primary fermenters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.5 gallon batches (just divide a 5-gallon recipe in half)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 gallon Mr Beer recipes -- I had some stocked up from the original kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I'm a big proponent of using the 3-gallon carboys and 2-2.5 gallon batches, especially in the apartment.  As a brand-new brewer they let me try a lot of different recipes quickly; they mitigate the risk of a bad-beer (I won't have to choke-down 5 gallons), and they give me an easy upgrade-route to making 5 gallon batches). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fermenters hide under one side of the sink in the room, a cooler large enough for 24x bottles sits on the other side (I let the bottles carb in there, so any bottle-bomb would be contained).  I also have other spare equipment stored near it, but only because there's no better room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T16:04:48.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1335" CreationDate="2011-01-05T16:44:52.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a very small house.  I use a closet in the guest room for fermenting.  I put my fermenter into a large plastic bucket full of water.  The added mass of the water buffers thermal swings to keep the tempos more constant.  I put an aquarium heater in the bucket of water when I need to warm it up.  I put ice packs in the water to cool it down.  Very cheap, easy, and effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T16:44:52.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-05T18:21:22.357" Score="2" ViewCount="780" Body="&lt;p&gt;What quick brews are there? ~ 2 weeks from start to drink...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should be simple, boozy and tasty. any type of fruits or roots will do! so far have mainly tried a ginger beer, cider and elderflower all with reasonably good results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now looking for new ideas...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="858" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T18:18:38.467" Title="quick brew recipes" Tags="|ingredients|recipe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3076" CreationDate="2011-01-05T18:25:41.060" Score="4" ViewCount="2644" Body="&lt;p&gt;After the boil I have been told to run the wort through a filter before adding yeast and letting it ferment. It seems like you would get more flavor leaving the hop leftovers in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the advantage of filtering the wort before fermentation?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastEditorUserId="120" LastEditDate="2011-01-06T21:00:27.953" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T21:37:27.153" Title="Filter out Hops after Boil" Tags="|boil|filtering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3075" CreationDate="2011-01-05T18:59:47.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would remove the break material and other such things, which may or may not have an effect on how long the beer would store if you're planning on aging it.   You may also filter out nutrients that the yeast could use if you're doing that, though.   Filtering after fermentation makes much more sense to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T18:59:47.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3075" CreationDate="2011-01-05T19:34:58.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hops that were in the kettle really have nothing left to give.  There's no benefit to leaving them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T19:34:58.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3074" CreationDate="2011-01-06T16:19:34.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many beers can be brewed this fast. Lower gravity beers and beers that don't need any sort of aging are good bets. Cloning Black Tuesday will take a little longer than 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding more yeast during the fermentation will help speed up the process. When I've had to push a beer through quickly in the past, I've added &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/safale-us-05-american.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Safale 05&lt;/a&gt; a few days into the fermentation. It doesn't add much flavor past whatever yeast you use originally, and will kick things up a notch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that will significantly speed up the process is a kegging system. If you force carbonate the beer, you can skip that whole 10 day bottle conditioned part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T16:19:34.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3074" CreationDate="2011-01-06T18:18:38.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously you're going to need to force carb as there is no way bottle conditioning will work in time.  I've done an English mild and also a blonde ale both that came out fine after 2 weeks.  The blonde was a bit hazy though that cleared up after some time in the keg.  Essentially I would say anything you can keep at 4.0% abv or less would be a good candidate.  Hefeweizens are great candidates for this treatment since they are better young and are hazy by nature.  I'd stay away from IPAs since you'd want a stronger, sweeter beer to hold up to the hops.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T18:18:38.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3075" CreationDate="2011-01-06T18:43:37.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a matter of practicality, I'd be tempted to screen, &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; filter, and have in the past. I also use a wort-chiller of the counter-flow variety, and they do not work well with either the break material or floating bits of hops. A standard / fine stainless wire mesh strainer is plenty good enough to keep the chiller from getting clogged with solids of either sort. While the process of forcing wort through the clogged chiller in an effort to clear the jam can be entertaining, it's not recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T18:43:37.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2011-01-06T20:46:59.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you haven't heard of it, try picking up a bottle of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stonebrew.com/epic/w101010recipe.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stone's Vertical Epic 10.10.10&lt;/a&gt; (link is to the full, detailed, recipe).  It's a beer with 10% sauvignon blanc juice added during primary.  Just tried a bottle last night and it's definately interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side-note, all Stone Vertical Epic's are intended to reach their peak around 12/12/2012 -- so if you brew your own then expect it to continue to develop and mature over ~24-28 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T20:46:59.843" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3083" CreationDate="2011-01-06T22:23:33.343" Score="8" ViewCount="1031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some mead in bottles, which have been stored in a reasonably cool, dark place for possibly as much as two years old. I had intended to leave it for about a year for bottle conditioning, but now I'm curious what's likely to have happened after a couple years. Is it still safe to drink, and if so, how tasty is it likely to be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T05:46:13.160" Title="Longevity of bottled mead" Tags="|storage|mead|shelf-life|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3082" CreationDate="2011-01-06T22:34:14.120" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely safe to drink, and absolutely tasty.   Schramm mentions keeping some for 5 years or more.   And I've heard of people making mead for their children's 21st birthday that would be as old as the kid.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T22:34:14.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2011-01-06T23:27:26.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see how a Belgian Golden Strong (Duvel, Delirium Tremens, etc.) would appeal to a wine drinker.   Dry finish with fruit and spice flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got my girl into beer via a weird direction, though.  She loves sour beers.  Flanders Red makes her happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meads and Braggots are also a good compromise between brewing and wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T23:27:26.480" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2011-01-07T16:51:13.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never tried this, but I think I would if I was looking for something like you are: A bright German style Ale (Kölsch) with a late addition/careful dry hopping of Amarillo. I have played around quite a bit with Amarillo recently and I find it goes in the direction of a fruity whitewine sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="716" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T16:51:13.833" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3094" CreationDate="2011-01-07T16:59:58.057" Score="2" ViewCount="3808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently made a Bavarian Wheat that all my &quot;co-drinkers&quot; liked quite a lot. I have fermented that pretty cold (18C/64F), since I don't like these beers when they are overly estery and tasting to much banana-like. Now I want to use the same malt-bill and turn it into a Belgian Wit just for kicks. I was going to use White Labs WLP400 (Belgian Wit) for it. Which fermentation temperature would you use for that in comparison to the Bavarian Wheat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="716" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T03:08:52.473" Title="Belgian witbeer: Which fermentation temperature in comparison to a Bavarian Hefeweizen?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|belgian-white|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3089" CreationDate="2011-01-07T17:33:03.853" Score="3" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Pilsner in primary that I'm hoping to start lagering this weekend.  I don't have a refrigerator that can accommodate the carboy, so I'm thinking about keeping it in a largish lidded foam container another, larger, carboy came in and swapping out bottles of frozen water  to keep temperatures down.  I'm not sure how futile that might be.  The other option I'm considering is keeping it in my garage (in WI, so it's generally fairly cold).  Does anyone have experience with chilling a lager without a dedicated refrigerator that can offer advice or other ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T18:55:22.953" Title="Maintaining Lagering Temperatures" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|lager|temperature-control|lagering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3086" CreationDate="2011-01-07T17:55:44.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Belgian Wit Ale yeast is a low producer of phenols but fermentation temperatures on the higher end of the yeasts range will produce more of the spicy phenol characteristics.  I made a wit about a month ago and fermented at about 66 and the yeast character turned out relatively low compared to the spice and orange peel I added.  I would stay around 66-68 for a good fermentation.&#xA;Actually when using Hefeweizen yeast the lower the fermentation temp the more fruity esters you will produce.  The banana character increases as the temperature increases along with the spice phenols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T17:55:44.503" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3087" CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:09:02.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you may know or will soon find out its not easy maintaining a constant temperature when lagering without a refrigerator and controller.  One thing that can make it easier is to submerge the carboy in water in an insulated vessel.  This should slow the warming process so you can change out the ice packs on a regular basis. &#xA;Another trick is to wrap a wet towel around the carboy that is in 2-3&quot; of water and turn the fan on it.  This can drop the temp about 5-8 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T18:09:02.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2011-01-07T20:38:00.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would learn to make Sauvignon Blanc.  Its easier than making beer actually. Just takes more time.  Start her with a fruit wheat beer styles to see if you can find a beer style that she actually likes.  It might be easier than trying to invent a wine like beer and bastardize both the wine and the beer in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T20:38:00.013" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3075" CreationDate="2011-01-07T21:37:27.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I tried this, I found my beer got a soapy, almost rancid flavor. If you want a better, rounded flavor from your hops, you're better off using new and dry-hopping. It's the best way I've found to get a full hop flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T21:37:27.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3082" CreationDate="2011-01-08T00:36:25.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of a VERY smooth bottle of mead that was 28 years old.  Wish we had some more of that to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T00:36:25.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3086" CreationDate="2011-01-08T03:08:52.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Zainasheff in &quot;Brewing Classic Styles&quot; (for Belgian Wit):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Begin fermentation at 68F (20C) slowly raising the temperature to 72F (22C) by the last third of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that part of that is to clean up diacetyl and the like.   Most of the yeast flavor happens in the first 72 hours of fermentation.   That's quite a bit warmer than what he recommends for the German wheat beers, but that also makes sense, Belgian beers having a bit more &quot;funk&quot; than Germans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T03:08:52.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2011-01-08T15:56:18.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use corn meal, you'll need to do a cereal mash to gelatinize the starches before adding it to the mash.  I tend to use instant grits or polenta so you can skip the cereal mash.  At one of our club's Iron Brewer contests, I made breakfast cereal the secret ingredient.  The contestants got cocoa puffs, Fruit Loops, a cinnamon wheat cereal, and Lucky Charms to use in their beers.  Post fermentation you couldn't really detect any of the character of the cereals used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T15:56:18.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3101" CreationDate="2011-01-08T17:54:52.957" Score="1" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started doing forced fermentation (FF) tests with each batch I make. I know that the final gravity of the FF beer will be lower than the final gravity of the beer fermented normally in the carboy -- but how much lower? Is there a normal range, or is it going to vary wildly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I just finished a batch of ESB. The FF beer has an FG of 1.013 and the beer in the carboy stopped at 1.016 - 1.017. Is that a normal range, or is that an indication that the beer in the carboy didn't ferment fully? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T14:26:26.603" Title="What is the average gravity difference between a Forced Fermentation and normal fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3087" CreationDate="2011-01-08T18:51:54.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the winter you could try keeping the carboy outside (in your garage) inside another larger container filled with water (as the other answer suggests). Then, assuming the average temperature in your garage is below lagering temperature this time of year, use an aquarium heater or two to try to bring the temperature up to ~50 degrees (or whatever your target is). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://freshaquarium.about.com/od/heating/a/heatersizeguide.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; has a good estimating chart for how many degrees a given wattage aquarium heater will add to a given sized &quot;tank&quot;. You might need to turn the heater up (or use two) on colder days and use only one or neither on warmer days, as the ambient temperature changes. For daily cycles, you could leave one plugged in all the time, and set the other on a timer so that it only comes on at night. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T18:51:54.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3087" CreationDate="2011-01-08T18:55:22.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could build a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mb226sT6qEc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Son of Fermentation Chiller&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://suburb.semo.net/jet1024/FermChill.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;36 DD Mother of Fermentation Chiller&lt;/a&gt;. Both are pretty close to your original idea of using a foam container with ice. Adding a thermostat or temperature controller will let you maintain a more constant temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T18:55:22.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3100" CreationDate="2011-01-08T19:01:38.300" Score="6" ViewCount="1925" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of brewing several carboys of beer to serve at my wedding in a few months. The catch is that the wedding is on the other side of the country. I'm planning on taking a few days to drive it there myself, and I'm wondering how best to package it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm going to be bottling because the logistics and cost of keg fridges will be prohibitive. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm driving a pickup truck with a cap so vertical stacking isn't necessary (per stuffing bottles in the trunk), but the ride could be bumpy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can package them as I'd like (with reasonable materials), but I'd prefer not to get into the business of e.g. bubble-wrapping each bottle as I plan to move several hundred bottles. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I best ensure that the beer survives the trip without breakage, or loss of containment due to agitating the bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:55:28.343" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:55:28.343" Title="How to transport homebrew" Tags="|beer|equipment|shipping|transport|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3099" CreationDate="2011-01-08T19:19:59.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put it in cases and wrap the cases in towels to help minimize the mess if you do have some break?   I'd be more concerned about temperature problems, honestly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T19:19:59.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3096" CreationDate="2011-01-09T18:19:27.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, there is no &quot;normal&quot; range.  That's why you do the test!  In your example, you simply show that your beer could have fermented further.  different styles will have different limits and how closely you approach those limits of tied to the style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-09T18:19:27.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3110" CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:14:01.450" Score="1" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make the Maibock recipe from Brewing Classic Styles.  It calls for Munich LME.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Does anybody know where I can get my hands on some 100% Munich LME?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If I can't get 100% Munich, Jamil Zainasheff says (http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=&amp;amp;t=9430) I can use the Munich LME that I've found on even though it's a 50/50 blend of Munich and base malts. So if the Recipe calls for 8 lbs Pilsener LME and 4 lbs of Munich, I could use 8 lbs of the Munich Blend, and 4 lbs of the Pilsener.  Is this correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="690" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T18:16:54.817" Title="Munich LME recipe conversion?" Tags="|extract|lme|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3099" CreationDate="2011-01-10T13:24:07.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would do nothing special.  Just put the bottles back in the the same cases that the bottles came in.  Beer you buy commercially is separated in 6 packs within the box by just a single layer of card-stock (the six pack carrier) and they do fine.  These are driven all over the country and do fine.  If you are doing the driving it would be fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T13:24:07.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-10T14:15:30.223" Score="5" ViewCount="2291" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should I use a wort chiller, and what are the advantages of doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:55:50.670" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:55:50.670" Title="What is a wort chiller?" Tags="|beer|equipment|wort|best-practices|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3109" CreationDate="2011-01-10T14:18:03.497" Score="7" ViewCount="1460" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain what exactly an alpha acid is and why should I care about the alpha acid &quot;rating&quot; on the hops I use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T17:51:05.890" Title="What are alpha acids?" Tags="|hops|alpha-acids|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3104" CreationDate="2011-01-10T17:09:58.483" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should if you can.  The advantages are a faster brew-day, a shorter window of potential wort contamination, and a better cold break.  (Depending on the method, you might also get improved clarity due to whirlpooling trub and break material that you would then not siphon in the primary fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/475/how-do-you-cool-wort&quot;&gt;How do you cool wort?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T17:09:58.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3104" CreationDate="2011-01-10T17:44:06.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wort chiller is something you use to cool your hot wort to pitching temperature.  A copper coil submersion chiller is a pretty common type of wort chiller for home brewers.  In addition to what jsled mentioned for reasons of using one, it can also help reduce DMS buildup in your wort since it is still being produced at hot temperatures even though it's no escaping through steam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T17:44:06.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3105" CreationDate="2011-01-10T17:46:29.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alpha acids are what cause the bitterness during your wort boil.  The higher the %, the more bitter they will cause your beer to be during boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T17:46:29.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3105" CreationDate="2011-01-10T17:51:05.890" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alpha acids are compounds found in the flower of the hop plant and are the primary source of bitterness in beer.  The alpha acids are isomerized in the boil to form iso-alpha acids.  The degree of isomerization and the level of bitterness extracted is determined by the length of time the hops are boiled.  The alpha acid rating is the amount of alpha acid by percentage of total weight of the hops.  The higher the percentage alpha acid the more bitterness a hop will contribute during the boil.  The alpha acids for a particular hop variety can vary due to growing conditions, drying methods, and age of the hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alpha acids also contribute to foam stability and head retention in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T17:51:05.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3102" CreationDate="2011-01-10T18:16:54.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) William's Brewing carries it at the moment.  It's 50% Munich and 50% pils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2).  Correct&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T18:16:54.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3118" CreationDate="2011-01-10T21:26:18.493" Score="22" ViewCount="33981" Body="&lt;p&gt;My impression is that ales are typically best drunk within a couple weeks of brew day. It's my experience that letting them age in the bottles for 2-3 months yields the best beer, both improving body, head, and desirable flavours, and reducing estery flavours. Could there be something I'm doing wrong to make the beer mature too slowly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T12:21:03.740" Title="Why do all my beers taste better after having aged for a couple months?" Tags="|beer|flavor|aging|ale|lagering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3111" CreationDate="2011-01-10T21:42:25.647" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be a few things going on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High Alcohols can improve in flavor after some time in cool, dark storage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sediment can drop out of beer after long, cool storage leading to better head formation and retention (since the sediment is no longer there to form a big nucleation site)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast in the beer, if still active, could be cleaning up some byproducts they didn't get to during fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a common homebrewing joke that the best beer in a batch is the last remaining bottle. And it's somewhat true -- yes, you can drink that beer just a week or two after bottling, but if kept in a cool, dark place the beer should continue to develop (and hopefully improve) for quite a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T21:42:25.647" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3056" CreationDate="2011-01-10T21:57:33.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rinse out bottles after I drink them and store them in a closet.  Near bottling day, I do a dishwasher load with regular detergent for getting rid of dust and bits of residue in the bottles.  It also helps remove any old labels/glue on the bottles.  With just the normal dishwasher sanitize, I've never had any skunked homebrews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brandon's definitely right that not all dishwashers are created equal, so your mileage may vary on how good your dishwasher is.  Another stunningly obvious thing is to make sure there's enough room for your bottles and to load them upside down and space evenly apart.  When I overloaded the dishwasher once, I had some puddles form that made me a bit leery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T21:57:33.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3119" CreationDate="2011-01-10T22:06:50.450" Score="13" ViewCount="6352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently moved into a smaller apartment and no longer have the space for my 6.5 and 5 gallon carboys.  Do people sell smaller carboys than this?  I know Mr. Beer would be small enough, but I'd rather have something a bit bigger.  Also, most extract kits come in 5 gallon recipes.  I imagine I can half everything and brew 2.5 gallons at a time.  Is there any downsides to this, or anything special I should look out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T02:36:33.580" Title="How to brew less than 5 gallons at a time?" Tags="|equipment|extract|kits|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3114" CreationDate="2011-01-10T22:15:35.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Northern Brewer has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/fermenting-equipment/carboys-jugs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3 gallon carboys in both glass and plastic&lt;/a&gt;. And you can get 3 gallon kegs, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can halve all of the ingredients in a kit, I can't think of any problems with brewing that way. My concern would be trying to split a jug of LME into halves. You'd probably need a scale to do it accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T22:15:35.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3104" CreationDate="2011-01-10T22:16:14.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's basically coiled copper tubing you run cold water through to help cool your wort faster. I built the one I use. Anybody that's run an old musclecar would have recognized it as something akin to a &quot;cool can&quot;. I have brass fittings at each end of the coil that attach to hoses. One I affix to my tap, the other drains into the sink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You prepare your wort as usual, then at the final few minutes of boiling, drop the coil in. This helps sanitize it, but obviously it should be cleaned beforehand. When you've turned off the heat, you start running the water which goes through the coils and down the drain. The reasons/benefits were summed up nicely in jsled's post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T22:16:14.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3111" CreationDate="2011-01-10T22:58:23.823" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not all beer matures at the same rate, and not all beer drinkers have the same tastes.  For some examples, I like to drink really hoppy beers while they're fairly young and the hops are still vibrant.  An altbier I'll cold condition for a couple months.  Something like a tripel I prefer with maybe a month or 2 of age on it.  The best thing to do is experiment to find out how YOU like your beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T22:58:23.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3111" CreationDate="2011-01-10T23:10:43.793" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are doing absolutely nothing wrong.  Many people are far too quick to drink their precious homebrew and most beers benefit a lot from aging.  A few months for ales and simple lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beers with a high ABV should be aged much longer. I make a Chimay Grand Cru clone that I typically don't try for 4-6 months.  Aging remove a lot of the &quot;hot&quot; taste from high alcohol beers and mellows them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think all of the BS from the megalager companies (Miller, Bud, etc) about &quot;fresh beer&quot; have given people the impression that a three week old beer is ready.  Oh, you can drink it.  It's just not at its best.  I let bog-standard 5% ABV ales go at least six weeks before drinking. 1-2-3 Method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer is about patience and many folks don't know how good their beer could be with a few extra weeks in a cool, dark cellar or closet.  Mind you, I am not advocating you let a 5% Wit age for a year.  It will lose a lot.  But a month or two after bottling (or kegging) is a good idea. Rule of thumb is for me, the higher the ABV, the longer the aging.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow your instincts, Nick.  You've discovered one of the most easily overlooked secrets of homebrewing all on your own.  Kudos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T23:10:43.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3114" CreationDate="2011-01-11T19:13:52.950" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no concerns over going to a smaller batch size.  3 gallon carboys and buckets are easily found.  Check out USplastics.com they have all sorts of funky food grade buckets and things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other great thing about doing say 2.5 gallon batch is that you can start passing up on starters.  Just pitch an entire tube of White labs and you are definitely good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a 3 gallon bucket is still going to take up almost as much space as a 5 gallon bucket.  You can save on storage space by putting stuff in your bucket if that helps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as halving a kit goes that's tough.  I'd invest in some brewing software and set all your defaults to the new brewing batch size of 2.5 gallons.  Then start scaling good recipes from reliable sources down to that size and go from there.  Building your ingredient lists from scratch is probably better than halving kits.  At the least you should take good notes on whats in your favorite kit.  Then next time you can just buy half the ingredients separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T19:13:52.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-12T01:36:07.860" Score="3" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;What effect does the alkalinity of wort have on the fermentation cycle in beer brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="875" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T17:23:57.850" Title="What effect does the alkalinity of wort have on the fermentation cycle in beer brewing?" Tags="|fermentation|chemistry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3125" CreationDate="2011-01-12T06:21:11.950" Score="11" ViewCount="7312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always soaked my bottle caps in sanitizer before using, but a friend of mine suggested boiling (throw in the same pot with priming sugar) instead because the cooties can theoretically hide from the sanitizer solution but not from the heat. This makes intuitive sense, although one could debate whether the extra effectiveness has any practical measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what the downsides are (if any) of boiling the caps. Could a slight metallic taste be imparted? Weaker seal? Something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="2377" LastEditDate="2020-06-11T20:25:14.300" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T20:25:14.300" Title="Boiling bottle caps" Tags="|bottling|sanitation|capping|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3121" CreationDate="2011-01-12T12:43:38.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A warm cap would contract when cooling theoretically providing a &lt;em&gt;tighter&lt;/em&gt; seal, but also possibly causing damage to the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'r worried about taste sterilise separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T12:43:38.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3121" CreationDate="2011-01-12T13:20:34.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always boiled or at least simmered my bottle caps. In my case, I suspect its a hold-over from home canning, where you have a two-part seal, and the inner lid with the rubber gasket gets boiled (or at least &lt;strong&gt;strongly&lt;/strong&gt; heated. Anyway, my usual process is to rinse the things thoroughly to get any dust or whatever surface crud off, and then lightly simmer for a few minutes. I usually let them cool enough to handle, in which case you needn't be concerned with any extra strain on the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't put it in with the priming sugar, just in case. I doubt you'd get any kind of effect in the form of off-tastes, but why risk it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll freely admit that my process is almost certainly overkill, and there's the &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; slight possibility of overheating the caps enough so that the inner sear could separate from the metal, causing a seal failure. I've never had it happen, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T13:20:34.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3121" CreationDate="2011-01-12T13:46:40.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you're mixing your sanitizer correctly, you shouldn't need the heat.   the only way any bad things could &quot;hide&quot; from sanitizer is if your caps weren't clean, and if you're using dirty caps, you've got other, more serious problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;downsides (i'm just guessing):  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;difficulty in handling to get the&#xA;caps to the bottles.   i touch the caps with my fingers, and would expect that getting burns whenever i bottle would make me less likely to bottle. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thermoplasticity of the glue holding&#xA;the seal to the metal cap.   at what temperature will the seal disconnect itself from the cap?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you're just microbially paranoid, then i can see using heat, but if you're going to go to that extent, why not use a pressure cooker and actually sterilize the caps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T13:46:40.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3121" CreationDate="2011-01-12T14:15:16.907" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using normal caps, you can boil or sanitize. I wouldn't follow the advice of boiling them with the priming solution though, if only because the caps would get sugary and sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're uncertain about whether to boil or sanitize, why not handle them the same way that you handled your bottles. After all, the beer is going to be in greater contact with the bottle than with the caps. What's good for the goose is good for the gander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;However, if you're using oxygen-absorbing caps (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/bottling/bottle-caps-closures/o2-absorbing-caps-144-ct.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like these&lt;/a&gt;), then you shouldn't be getting them wet at all. Moisture renders the oxygen-absorbing liner useless. So do not sanitize o2-absorbing caps.&lt;/strike&gt; Updated, see below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Northern Brewer Chris has provided some more information on the caps I linked to, so I'm going to update this answer. I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftycaps.com/brewers/sanitize.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;these directions&lt;/a&gt; on sanitizing o2-absorption caps from a company that sells them. Their directions boil down to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pro-brewers don't bother to sanitize caps, so you can probably skip it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're not comfortable skipping it, then do not boil the o2-absorption caps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you get an o2-absorption cap wet but don't use it right away, it's now useless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't use hydrogen peroxide sanitizers (One-Step, B-Bright) on o2-absorption caps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastEditorUserId="758" LastEditDate="2011-01-12T16:48:35.853" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T16:48:35.853" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3121" CreationDate="2011-01-12T15:15:31.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never sanitized my bottle caps in any way, and have never had any infection problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T15:15:31.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2011-01-12T15:59:47.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look into brewing a flemish sour, though first you could buy a couple of bottles of the style and feed them to your wife to see if she likes them, I'd recommend Rodenbach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to look into some kinds of Gruit (hopless beers). I made a Sage Ale with a wheat yeast that is rather fruity and sour with some wine-like characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, why not just ferment your own Sauv blanc? Buy some concentrate and yeast and go to town, your LHBS should have that and if you make beer you've already got the equipment to make wine as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T15:59:47.783" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3120" CreationDate="2011-01-12T17:23:57.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alkalinity really doesn't apply in the discussion of wort since the pH of wort should be below 7 thus making it an acidic solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the discussion of pH during fermentation revolves around the yeast ability to reduce the pH and the available buffering materials present such as FAN(free available nitorgen).  During the fermentation process organic acids are produced from yeast byproducts causing a drop in the overall pH level.  The drop is significant in ale yeast during the first 12 hours(.4-.6) and much less so with lager yeast(.5 in 48 hours).  The presence of large quantities of FAN not only spurs yeast growth and the production of organic acids it also buffers the acids moderating the drop in pH level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the lowering of the pH can reduce the production of dimethyl sulfide and is also used as a measure of fermentation health and fermentation completion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T17:23:57.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3134" CreationDate="2011-01-12T17:49:57.320" Score="10" ViewCount="6478" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has happened with a few batches now. My three-piece airlocks are drained of the sani inside them repeatedly. Even after a few days, when fermentation doesn't seem as rapid (and therefore the temperature of the beer shouldn't be that much warmer than the surrounding air), I'll add more sani, and it gets sucked right through. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:32:03.180" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:32:03.180" Title="Why do my airlocks lose liquid?" Tags="|equipment|fermentation|airlock|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3129" CreationDate="2011-01-12T18:34:04.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing it is evaporating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that the three piece airlocks lose their liquid a lot faster than the S shaped ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T18:34:04.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3129" CreationDate="2011-01-12T18:34:22.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;could be a broken or leaky airlock.   could be that the beer is cooling dramatically, so you have less pressure in the fermentor than in the surrounding atmosphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have kids that could be messing with your beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T18:34:22.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3129" CreationDate="2011-01-12T18:38:26.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pay careful attention to how far into the neck the stopper is inserted, and (more importantly) if it is moving at all.  If it's pushing itself out, then that will in turn suck liquid into the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens pretty frequently when first inserting the airlock + stopper.  I've gotten in the habit of first inserting the stopper, taping it in place to keep it from sliding out, then inserting the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2011-01-12T19:21:22.993" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T19:21:22.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="907" CreationDate="2011-01-12T18:39:53.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always thought vomit smells in brewing come from butyric acid and butanoate, produced by Clostridium species.  Wikipedia agrees: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butyric_acid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butyric_acid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Butyric acid boils at 164 C, so boiling your wort won't get rid of it, but it's worth a shot.  I know Papazian and Brew Your Own recommend one long sour mash at 110F, but why aren't we making our sour mashes like sourdough bakers make starters?  Here's what I do to get a clean lactic sourness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combine ~100 mL of boiled wort with a handful of pilsner malt straight out of the bag. Give it a good shake to provide oxygen for yeast growth.  After 12 hours, dilute 1:2 into more boiled wort, add half a handful of malt, and shake.  Repeat until you see bubbles, then repeat a few more times.  Voila, you've got an alcoholic and sour culture.  The lactic acid bacteria/yeast symbiosis has grown much faster than any clostridium, enteric bacteria, or molds, and has come to dominate, even preventing clostridium growth -- but only because of the frequent dilution with fresh wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lactobacillus is a facultative anaerobe, which means it can tolerate oxygen, but the yeast depends on oxygen for growth, so don't forget to shake (remember sourdough is not anaerobic).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Graham Anderson" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T18:39:53.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3129" CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:13:25.473" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are only a few reasons why this might happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Suck-back due to temperature changes  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Evaporation&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Airlock is damaged&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Somebody is messing with it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it has been mentioned by others, s-locks are better at keeping liquid, but are nearly impossible to clean if you get a blow-out. Three-piece airlocks are easier to clean. I use mostly 3-piece, except for things like mead, which might be fermenting for months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep my airlocks filled with cheap vodka.  That way if there is suck-back, it adds a microscopic amount to the beer's abv.  Plus I don't have to make sanitizer or worry about the effectiveness of the sanitizer in the air lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T19:13:25.473" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3129" CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:50:38.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things that have happened to me / that I have stupidly done to myself, producing the described effect:&#xA;1) Put the carboy with room temperature wort and airlock in place into cooling.&#xA;2) Drew a sample with airlock in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="716" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T19:50:38.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3099" CreationDate="2011-01-12T21:04:43.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you aren't in violation of any bootlegging laws along the way.  Each state will likely have different amounts considered allowed for personal use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps your state alcohol board will sell you tax seals/stamps (even though you only have small quantities), so if stopped you can point to them and avoid time spent talking with the local magistrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="884" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T21:04:43.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3138" CreationDate="2011-01-12T21:40:40.383" Score="2" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to add some Brettanomyces lambicus to an old ale after it has been moved to a secondary fermentor (it should be in the 7-8% ABV range at this point, and the primary yeast will be Wyeast 1968, if that matters).   Do I need to make a starter for it, or can I just dump the culture directly into the beer, cap the fermentor, and let it go for the rest of the year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:56:20.217" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:56:20.217" Title="How to treat Brettanomyces for secondary fermentation?" Tags="|beer|techniques|secondary-fermentation|sour|brettanomyces|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3137" CreationDate="2011-01-13T14:37:56.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No need for a starter when its going to be sitting there for that long.  Just time is all that's needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T14:37:56.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3137" CreationDate="2011-01-13T14:39:12.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I think you can just dump it right in, with no starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warning:&lt;/strong&gt;  I suggest that you double your normal sanitizing procedures with everything that comes in contact with the Brett.  A couple of years ago I added the dregs from a couple of bottles of Orval to a batch, and the Brett showed up in quite a few of my subsequent batches.  I dumped out probably 15 gallons of beer due to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T14:39:12.453" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:26:13.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find a brew day timer I was happy with so I wrote one for iOS which is available for $1.99.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewtimer.appmark.it/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brewtimer.appmark.it/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user886" LastEditorDisplayName="user886" LastEditDate="2011-02-13T03:24:23.177" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T03:24:23.177" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:26:17.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used Promash for nearly 13 years and love it.  It's also what most of the commercial brewers I know use.  I've worked with Beersmith, too, but far prefer the way Promash works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T16:26:17.533" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3099" CreationDate="2011-01-13T20:13:28.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest force carbing and bottling from a keg instead of bottle conditioning.  A long trip may very well stir up any yeast on the bottom too.  Also, since this is for a wedding, guests may not necessarily be familiar with bottle conditioned beers and might be put off by sediment regardless.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T20:13:28.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3147" CreationDate="2011-01-14T16:14:07.283" Score="27" ViewCount="92934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing my very first batch with an actual kit (I've used Mr. Beer before with decent results and wanted to do it right). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a recipe kit from Northern Brewer and I opted for the Cooper's Carbonation drops. But I see no one mention them here - or pretty much anywhere else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer (the XPA recipe) is on week 2 of fermentation and seems to be progressing nicely - the fermentation seems to have mostly stopped after being very robust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've ordered another kit from Northern Brewer with the regular priming sugar. It'll be here before bottling. Should I use the priming sugar or the carbonation drops? In a related question, I'll be bottling in different sized bottles (12, 16 and 22 oz.) The instructions call for 1 drop per 375 ml and 2 for 750 - what would I use for the 16 oz??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastEditorUserId="2377" LastEditDate="2021-09-09T21:05:08.670" LastActivityDate="2021-09-09T21:05:08.670" Title="Carbonation Drops vs. Sugar?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|sugar|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3144" CreationDate="2011-01-14T17:04:46.013" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't think of a reason the drops would be more consistent than sugar, assuming you prime the whole batch and not each bottle.  Personally, I've found the drops less reliable.  And sugar is much less expensive.  I still have drops I've never used because I was so dissatisfied with the results when I tried them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T17:04:46.013" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3144" CreationDate="2011-01-14T19:16:00.933" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing wrong with using carbonation drops.  There are some advantages.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They give you a very consistent carbonation from bottle to bottle. Uneven priming sugar mix in the bottling bucket (forgetting to stir it without adding oxygen) can lead to uneven carbonation.  Bottle bombs and weak/no carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You never forget to add them, which sometimes happens with priming sugar. Plus, if you do forget to add your priming sugar, you can always pry the caps off, drop in a tablet, and re-cap. (People do forget in their excitement to bottle to add the priming sugar.) Good reason to keep them on-hand as a backup.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you do miss one, you only screw up one bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downsides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Extra cost.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No ability to control specific carbonation for a given beer style or preference. (rarely done, but still)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think one of the best uses for carbonation drops is diagnosing carbonation issues.  People who are getting consistent weak carbonation, over carbonation, or uneven carbonation can eliminate everything but their priming sugar amount/procedure as the issue. It's a nice diagnostic for when you have carbonation issues you have been unable to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also say that carbonation drops are a good tools for new brewers.  As you get more experienced, you can graduate to using simple priming sugar.  No shame in using them, even some experienced brewers use them regularly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually boil up extra pale dry malt myself, rather than corn or table sugar.  I do that because I always have dry malt on hand. There is no other use for corn sugar, and I hate to have a single-purpose ingredient around and table sugar can leave a twang, although I have never experienced that in just priming.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T19:16:00.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2011-01-14T21:23:08.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Me and my wife (she's a Pinot drinker) just made an apfelwein together.  She's really liking the process (very easy) and the end result is very dry.  maybe a good starting point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="AnonymousBrew" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T21:23:08.113" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3144" CreationDate="2011-01-14T21:26:29.903" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're bottling into different-sized bottles, then priming the whole batch with sugar is going to give you &lt;strong&gt;more&lt;/strong&gt; consistentcy from bottle to bottle.  If you use 1 drop in your 12-ounce bottles, either choice of using 1 or 2 drops in your 16's will make them differently-carb'd from your 12's.  You could come closer with &quot;prime tabs&quot;, which had a greater granularity because they were smaller, but those aren't being made any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prime with plain old table sugar, and &lt;strong&gt;hang onto the carbonation drops&lt;/strong&gt;.  I use mine when I occasionally bottle single bottles (like a preview bottle bottled at racking time -- if I'm sure frementation is done) or small (1 gallon) batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T21:26:29.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2011-01-15T03:30:12.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Used promash for a few years, then beersmith, both through a windows emulator (on a mac). Currently BeerToolsPro, very happy with it especially since its a native mac program, also available for windows. Able to open .xml and .rec files too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Lee Birkett" LastActivityDate="2011-01-15T03:30:12.880" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3153" CreationDate="2011-01-15T06:18:36.557" Score="11" ViewCount="3147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting my first brew using a kit with all the provided ingredients (it's a lager).  My brew is still in the big tub and has been there for about 2 weeks now.  Initial SG was 1.040 and it's now 1.010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the airlock has never bubbled so I'm not sure if I should proceed to bottling yet or not.  I've kept the brew at about 26°C during the day, down to about 22 at night so I think the temperature is OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I proceed to bottling the brew anyway?  Should I add more yeast?  Or should I throw it all away and start again?  Is there anything else I can test?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[EDIT: updated the initial SG from 1.004 to 1.040, typo sorry!]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-01-16T02:36:16.520" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T15:47:53.847" Title="No bubbles in the airlock - should I still bottle the brew?" Tags="|yeast|airlock|first-time|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3151" CreationDate="2011-01-15T07:39:34.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the specific gravity has &lt;em&gt;gone up&lt;/em&gt;, the beer has not fermented. I recommend taking a sanitized spoon, getting a bit of the wort, and tasting it. If it tastes sour or bad, throw it out. If it tastes sweet, put a new packet of yeast in it and try again. If all goes well, the wort should start bubbling about a day after you add the yeast, and bubble vigorously for a few days after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.004 seems &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; low for an initial SG. Make sure you're reading the hydrometer correctly, correcting for temperature if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! Hope this ends tastily!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2011-01-15T07:39:34.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3151" CreationDate="2011-01-15T13:51:29.453" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that your 1.004 was a typo, and you meant 1.040, you've gotten around 75% apparent attenuation, so the yeast are probably finished, and you should be able to bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, 26C is about 16C too warm for a lager, so you may have an odd tasting lager.  It won't necessarily taste &lt;em&gt;bad&lt;/em&gt;, but it won't match the style that you were attempting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-15T13:51:29.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3151" CreationDate="2011-01-15T15:50:16.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;26C is about 79F.  That is way too hot.  I bet the brew finished while you were sleeping on the first night.  Its ready to bottle, so go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-15T15:50:16.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3151" CreationDate="2011-01-15T16:44:47.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, the fermentation temp was way too high.  Bubbles don't really tell you much.  It's the gravity that matters.  I'd say at 1.010 you're done and ready to bottle, but that depends on your recipe and the style of beer, also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-15T16:44:47.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3158" CreationDate="2011-01-17T15:02:50.000" Score="6" ViewCount="4636" Body="&lt;p&gt;In looking for a new wheat beer recipe, I came upon the following: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerrecipes.org/showrecipe.php?recipeid=254&quot;&gt;Improvisational Wheat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It mentions using 3 pounds of unmalted wheat, crushing separately, and boiling for 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the specific reason for using unmalted wheat, and what is the 30 minutes of boiling for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T18:50:52.740" Title="What is the purpose in adding unmalted wheat to a beer?" Tags="|wheat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3163" CreationDate="2011-01-17T15:11:19.067" Score="4" ViewCount="658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed all grain for a couple years now, using a single infusion mash.  I intend on researching at length, but I can't seem to find the simple answer to what step mashes are useful for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the top couple reasons for doing a step mash?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:17:39.253" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:17:39.253" Title="What is the basic reason for step mashing?" Tags="|mashing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3156" CreationDate="2011-01-17T15:25:54.720" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unmalted Wheat is traditionally used in Belgian Wit beers. I have not experimented with this myself, but in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/post1688/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;podcast about brewing wits&lt;/a&gt;, the brewer says that unmalted wheat provides a stronger flavor than malted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crushing and boiling separately is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/cereal-mash.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cereal mash&lt;/a&gt;. You have to gelatinize the starches in the wheat so that sugar can be broken out during the mash. You can skip the cereal mash if you use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Products/Adjuncts.htm#RedWheatFlakes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;flaked wheat&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Products/Adjuncts.htm#TorrifiedWheat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;torrified wheat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastEditorUserId="13332" LastEditDate="2016-07-04T18:50:52.740" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T18:50:52.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3176" CreationDate="2011-01-17T15:52:48.297" Score="2" ViewCount="1187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm putting together a stout that I want to have a sweet flavor and oily mouthfeel, however I don't particularly want to mash 20lbs of grain for a 5 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:18:13.667" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:18:13.667" Title="How to get an oily mouth feel" Tags="|mouthfeel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3157" CreationDate="2011-01-17T16:41:32.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different families of enzymes do their thing at different temperatures.  Mashing at differnt temperatures will apparently result in a wort with different properties than keeping it at the same temp for the whole mash time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, apparently dextrins add body to beer, but don't add taste.  Dextrins are formed at higher mash temps, so beer from a mash that spent very little time above 64 degrees (celcius) ought to have less body than one from a mash done entirely at 66 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a very complicated subject which I wish I understood much better.  But in a nutshell, varying your mash times and temps is going to vary the properties of the beer you end up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T16:41:32.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-17T17:26:07.333" Score="1" ViewCount="3520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to filter my beer then put it in the bottles for the second fermentation (aka making the beer fizz). I am worried that I will get rid of all the yeast and end up with flat beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Twizzle " LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2011-01-18T13:26:32.027" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T15:57:45.947" Title="Will there still be yeast leftover for second fermentation after filtration?" Tags="|yeast|bottles|filtering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3157" CreationDate="2011-01-17T18:34:39.777" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is enough overlap in enzyme temp ranges that a step mash doesn't make a world of difference.  I keep doing them to see if I can convince myself that there's a valid reason to do it, but I have yet to see enough difference to really warrant a step mash.  That overlap can be seen in the following chart from How to Brew by John Palmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kmcr6.gif&quot; alt=&quot;HTB enzyme chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T18:34:39.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3157" CreationDate="2011-01-17T20:02:57.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The temperature steps relate to enzymes as has been mentioned before. For mashing the important enzymes are alpha- and beta-amylases. Alpha cuts large chunks (dextrins) off of the starch that is in suspension in your mash. Beta cuts small bits (disaccharides, mostly maltose). Those large chunks are hard to digest for the yeast, the disaccharides are easy. Alpha works best at ~70C, beta works best at ~62C (and is pretty much inactivated at alpha's favourite temperature). The way I see it, is these enzymes are like smart, little machines that sort of just come with the malt for free. They perform very specific tasks and all we need to do, is to decide which tasks are important for us in the beer we want to make and then switch the respective machines on. And the way to that, is to heat the mash to their favourite temperature, provide contact between them and the starch (e.g. by stirring) and give them time to do their job. So by chosing your temperatures and times smartly, you can influence how much of your extract is &quot;yeast food&quot;, turning mostly into alcohol and CO2, and how much of your extract makes it through to your beer in form of malty taste and mouthfeel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="716" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T20:02:57.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3039" CreationDate="2011-01-17T20:12:42.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are also created during malting, so you can carry them through from the malt into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="716" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T20:12:42.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3159" CreationDate="2011-01-17T21:20:15.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you add flaked oats to your recipe they will add a silky/oily texture to the beer.  You will only need about 1-2 pounds per 5 gallon batch depending on OG.  If you do use too many they can have an adverse affect on head retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T21:20:15.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3166" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3168" CreationDate="2011-01-17T21:23:52.717" Score="9" ViewCount="8327" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just getting started on home brewing and I used boiled water in my airlock. I've seen that some places recommend using sanitizer as the airlock &quot;fill&quot;. Is it ok to use straight up StarSan in there or should I dilute with water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="866" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T17:34:36.027" Title="Using StarSan in Airlock" Tags="|sanitation|airlock|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3166" CreationDate="2011-01-17T21:33:51.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dilute it to the concentration recommended on the bottle. No reason to waste the stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T21:33:51.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3166" CreationDate="2011-01-17T21:38:31.157" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should absolutely dilute with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a higher concentration of star-san than what is listed on the bottle, it will no longer be at a &quot;no-rinse&quot; safety level, and may harm you or your yeast if it spills into your fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-01-18T00:00:50.200" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T00:00:50.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3161" CreationDate="2011-01-17T22:07:34.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you filter out all the yeast then there won't be any yeast to eat your priming sugar and carbonate in the bottle. Though in actuality I would imagine filtering all of the yeast out of your beer is a difficult feat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bottle condition, the yeast in the bottle is going to multiply and create a sediment on the bottom of the bottle. If you are careful with your bottles, you can pour carefully to avoid letting most of this sediment into your glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want to have absolutely no yeast in your bottle then you are going to have to find some other way of carbonating your beer (eg: force carbing via keg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2011-01-18T13:39:29.283" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T13:39:29.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3166" CreationDate="2011-01-17T23:02:13.317" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you want in your airlock is something that will:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow airflow only in the direction of lower pressure.  This qualifies pretty much any liquid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not have funk grow in it.  This means something you could use to sanitize things, or anything with high alcohol content (eg, I use vodka sometimes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not hurt your beer if it ends up getting sucked back down into the fermenter.  This means no bleach or other rinse-required sanitizers, and no undiluted no-rinse sanitizers (since they cease to be no-rinse in high-concentrations).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can starsan, but at in the same level of dilution recommended on the bottle.  I usually just save a cup from when I sanitize my equipment on brewday and use a bit of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T23:02:13.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3161" CreationDate="2011-01-18T02:19:20.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are a homebrewer, I would recommend avoiding any sort of filtration when bottling or kegging until you're a very advanced brewer. You will need to force carbonate if you filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are simply trying to get rid of some of the cloudiness, make sure you use a yeast that is not low flocculation (medium is ideal, because highly flocculant yeast might need to be roused if conditions aren't good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can indeed transfer your beer to a secondary fermentation vessel (i.e. another carboy) and age it for a while for additional clarity. You can also leave your beer to settle in the bottling bucket for 30-90 minutes after transferring from your fermentor to allow everything to settle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, I rarely worry about clarity in my beer. If it tastes good, it's a successful beer. That said, I usually end up with clear beer because I do most of what I suggested, though I tend not to rack to secondary anymore and instead let my primary fermentation go for 3-4 weeks (you're not going to get any off flavors from yeast in that time, but it will clear up some).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T02:19:20.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2011-01-18T02:22:22.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a ton of different tools, and BeerSmith is the best I've used. It is not only fully featured, but it actually still has a developer working on it (many are unsupported at this point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T02:22:22.290" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3114" CreationDate="2011-01-18T02:36:33.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 3 gallon better bottles for small batches. Available at many brew shops, including Northern Brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/better-bottle-plain-3-gallon-single.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/better-bottle-plain-3-gallon-single.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding halving recipes, you can indeed literally halve your recipe and get very similar results to the full recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to continue to use kits, you'll probably end up wasting money over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest buying the ingredients separately and building your own kits. Don't worry! This is very easy. If you don't want to formulate recipes yourself, you can find them in many places online, including places like Northern Brewer who list their ingredients out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check out their Phat Tyre Ale:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;[Sorry, I can't link it because my rep isn't high enough. Search for &quot;Phat Tyre Extract&quot; at the site I linked above]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Down near the bottom is a Kit Inventory Sheet:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;[Sorry, I can't link it because my rep isn't high enough. Search for &quot;Phat Tyre Extract&quot; at the site I linked above]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SPECIALTY GRAIN&#xA;-- 0.5 lbs Victory Malt&#xA;-- 0.5 lbs Briess Caramel 60&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FERMENTABLES&#xA;-- 1 lb Pilsen dry malt extract (60 min)&#xA;-- 6 lbs Amber malt syrup late addition (15 min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOPS &amp;amp; FLAVORINGS&#xA;-- 1 oz Perle (60 min)&#xA;-- 1 oz Hersbrucker (15 min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Halve all of those ingredients and you'll have a lovely brew.:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SPECIALTY GRAIN -- 0.25 lbs Victory Malt -- 0.25 lbs Briess Caramel 60&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FERMENTABLES -- 0.5 lb Pilsen dry malt extract (60 min) -- 3 lbs Amber malt syrup late addition (15 min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOPS &amp;amp; FLAVORINGS -- 0.5 oz Perle (60 min) -- 0.5 oz Hersbrucker (15 min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T02:36:33.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1391" CreationDate="2011-01-18T02:45:08.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried two. I've used 100% polyester voile curtain material. You can find that at pretty much any fabric store and buy it by the yard. With that, I never bothered making a bag and things worked out well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently decided to try a sparging bag in my now-insulated 6.5 gallon bottling bucket as an alternative, and I feel like I'm getting more positive results with that method because I can still drain through the grain bed for filtration (and you can lift it by the spigot for faster drainage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know exactly what brand it is, but it might be Bru-Heat. I purchased it from my LHBS and it is called &quot;Sparging Bag for 6.5 Gallon Bucket.&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.home-brew.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&amp;amp;Store_Code=EMP3373&amp;amp;Category_Code=BRUH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.home-brew.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&amp;amp;Store_Code=EMP3373&amp;amp;Category_Code=BRUH&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T02:45:08.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3159" CreationDate="2011-01-18T13:11:34.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a thicker mouthfeel there are several options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flaked Oats or Barley will give a creamier, smoother mouthfeel.  These will need to be mashed with base malt.  Keep that in mind if you are an extract brewer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash at a higher temp.  This results in more residual dextrins.  When done right the residual body can be quite noticable.  Done poorly and the beer will be overly sweet in the end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using Lactose can also create a creamy mouthfeel perception (1 lb/5 gal).  Results in a slightly sweet finish as well. Not point 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I still don't call these things oily, I get your gist (I hope).&#xA;I think you'd be surprised that many of the beers where you experience this phenomenon do not have some sort of over the top recipe addition or technique change to the brewing process.  I well brewed big body stout will just happen on its own with a proper recipe and grain bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T13:11:34.813" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3159" CreationDate="2011-01-18T20:03:20.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rye malt does exactly what you describe.  Use 10-20% of your total grist as rye malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T20:03:20.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3056" CreationDate="2011-01-18T23:03:10.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rinse my bottles out after I drink them, then run them through the dishwasher with the other dishes, and store them in a box with the lids open (I use spring top bottles.)  Before I bottle, I wash them out by hand with soap, rinse them out until the soap is gone, and run them through the dishwasher on the sanitizing cycle without detergent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the dishwasher is really able to get much water up inside the bottles, which is why I hand wash them first.  My dishwasher does use rinse agent, and I have never had any problems.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T23:03:10.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1335" CreationDate="2011-01-18T23:21:11.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;keep you fermenter in a corner of the coolest room in the house (I used the guest bathroom for a long time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a glass fermenter, try this trick to keep it cool... Put you fermenter in a shallow pan that's a few inches bigger than it (water heater drip pans work good), fill the pan with a couple of inches of water, and put an old t-shirt over the top of the fermenter, with the bottom of the shirt laying in the water.  The t-shirt will wick up the water from the pan and provide evaporative cooling to your fementer.  In my experience, this will keep your fermenter about 5 deg cooler than the temperature of the room it's sitting in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T23:21:11.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-18T23:30:51.963" Score="5" ViewCount="9789" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some well known &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/89/book-for-beginners&quot;&gt;actual books&lt;/a&gt; like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381888&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;John Palmer's How to Brew&lt;/a&gt; (which, actually, happens to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;freely available online&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other books and guides are available for free online that teach homebrewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T16:16:40.160" Title="List of free online brewing books and guides" Tags="|books|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2011-01-19T04:22:50.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also Strange Brew (strangebrew.ca).  I've used it for about 8 years now and it does everything I've needed it to do.  You can download a trial version or there is also a free Java version (with less features) available on sourceforge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The author of it also has a hilarious random beer name generator on his site, check it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://strangebrew.ca/beername.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Random Beer Name Generator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Horshaq" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T12:32:27.590" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T12:32:27.590" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3180" CreationDate="2011-01-19T04:25:07.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brau Kaiser's wiki&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Home Brewing Wiki&lt;/a&gt;, which are both large and detailed, though maybe not as easy to use as Palmer's book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T04:25:07.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3151" CreationDate="2011-01-19T15:47:53.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would also check your fermentation setup. The first batch I did I did not notice any activity in my airlock, turned out that the lid had not been seated 100%and co2 was leaking out of the lid instead of the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T15:47:53.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3180" CreationDate="2011-01-19T16:16:40.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Your Own (byo.com)&lt;/a&gt; has some great articles and resources, like hop charts, grain charts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T16:16:40.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3211" CreationDate="2011-01-19T18:26:11.340" Score="1" ViewCount="10669" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is homebrewing beer legal in Ontario Canada?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried googling and cannot find the answer. Wikipedia says it's legal in most provinces, but not specific about Ontario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also would it be legal for me to order supplies online (e.g. from US) and have them shipped here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="914" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2011-01-19T20:41:08.940" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T20:19:15.067" Title="Is homebrewing beer legal in Ontario Canada?" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3186" CreationDate="2011-01-19T18:44:28.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ordered supplies from homebrewgearcanada and homebrew-supplies online.  They are both based out of Ontario, so I'm thinking it's a fairly safe bet that there are no legal issues associated with homebrewing in Ontario.  Order from them and you'll save on shipping and potential custom/brokerage fees as well as supporting a Canadian business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user813" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T18:44:28.683" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3191" CreationDate="2011-01-19T19:06:39.527" Score="8" ViewCount="683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm only just getting started with homebrewing however I have a longer term goal of going all-grain and brewing a porter with a distinctly smokey flavour to it.  Something similar to the flavours found in Bombardier Satanic Mills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What factors go in to achieving this flavour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T02:08:48.697" Title="How can I achieve smokey flavours?" Tags="|flavor|smoke|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3188" CreationDate="2011-01-19T19:09:10.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smoked malt should be what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T19:09:10.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3188" CreationDate="2011-01-19T19:30:23.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both Weyermann and Briess make some smoked malts.  You could simply add these as specialty malts in your extract process with steeping if you keep the percentage to &amp;lt;5% of the total amount of extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get either one of these from several on line suppliers here is a couple links at Northern Brewer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/weyermann-smoked-malt-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wyermann Smoked Malt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/briess-cherrywood-smoked-malt-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Briess Cherrywood Smoked Malt&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to keep in mind both of these malts have the ability to self convert.  So its likely better to plan a mini mash with either of these.  In the case of Weyermann smoked malt you can go 100% of the grain bill.  The smokey character is not as super as intense as some would have you believe for these two examples, which is why some german Rauch beers use close to 100% of this malt.  Not sure if you could get enough intensity by just steeping it.  There are however some super smokey malts out there that you would want to use as &quot;steepers&quot; to get some smoked character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-01-19T19:39:57.697" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T19:39:57.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3188" CreationDate="2011-01-19T19:53:23.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 ways to go with smoked malt.  Rauch malt is smoked (usually with beechwood) and has a relatively mild smokiness.  You can use up to 100% of it for your grist if you want an intense smokiness.  Peated malt, OTOH, is smoked with peat (DUH!) and is quite intense.  A couple oz. of it in a batch can give an overwhelming smokiness to your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T19:53:23.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3186" CreationDate="2011-01-19T20:33:34.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewers.ca/homebrew-clubs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Canadian Amateur Brewer's Association&lt;/a&gt; there's a 'Southern Ontario Homebrewers' club. They have a mailing list &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!forum/are-you-an-sob&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I suspect they can give you a definitive answer, but the fact that the club exists suggests that homebrew is legal. Or you could &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewers.ca/about/contact-information/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;contact CABA&lt;/a&gt; and ask them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T20:33:34.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3198" CreationDate="2011-01-19T23:41:32.490" Score="5" ViewCount="3350" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey friends. So I'm working on my first home brew. It's been in the fermenter for 3 days. After the second day of vigorous fermenting and hardcore airlock bubbling, the krausen started subsiding and was like that for about a half day. Today the krausen is back to the top of my carboy, but the bubbling isn't quite as dramatic. I'm unsure as to why the fermentation seemed to stop for awhile then start again. Could something be wrong or is this just a natural thing? It seemed to be a little cold in my &quot;brew room&quot; at one point, so I turned the temp up a bit. Seems to be good now. Here's a pic...any advice would be appreciated on how to get a consistent fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SVQdC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="866" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T13:14:42.720" Title="Fermentation stopped and then started again" Tags="|fermentation|krausen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3194" CreationDate="2011-01-20T02:01:19.687" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If everything's OK now, relax! Your beer is probably going to turn out great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the temperature went below 16C/60F for ales or somewhat lower (maybe below 6C/42F or so?) for lagers, the fermentation might slow down significantly, but as long as you get it started up again quickly (i.e., not leaving enough time for an opportunistic lactobacillus to 'f' your 's' up), it shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T02:01:19.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3188" CreationDate="2011-01-20T02:08:48.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the pre-smoked malts you can purchase, you can smoke any kind of malt on your own, which gives you a lot more options to work with. I would suggest smoking malt a week or two before using it, however--throw it in a paper bag after smoking it to allow some of the harsher aromatics to escape (just like you would if you toast your own malt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to a BYO article on smoking your own malt:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/beer-styles/article/indices/11-beer-styles/309-brewing-smoked-beers-tips-from-the-pros&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.byo.com/stories/beer-styles/article/indices/11-beer-styles/309-brewing-smoked-beers-tips-from-the-pros&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T02:08:48.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3194" CreationDate="2011-01-20T13:14:42.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nick's answer suffices for your &quot;is anything wrong&quot; question, so I'll answer your other one - &quot;any advice would be appreciated on how to get a consistent fermentation.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing you should do before anything else is come up with a way to control your fermentation temperature.  Assume the recipe says to ferment at 68F.  If you can find a way to keep that liquid at 68F for the entire week or so, your beer quality will improve drastically.  Once you've come up with a way to reliably control temperature, then you can start playing with fine tuning it - such as pitching at 65F, letting it come up to 68F over 12 hours, holding it there for three days, then letting it warm to 70F slowly over the next four days to ensure the yeast stay active and re-absorb all the crap they spit out into your beer while they were making alcohol.  But that's a little more advanced.  For now, come up with a way to keep the temperature consistent and within a few degrees of what the recipe (or style or yeast package) calls for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For good info on controlling fermentation temp, check out this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/533&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;episode of the Brew Strong podcast&lt;/a&gt; with John Palmer and Jamil Zainasheff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T13:14:42.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3200" CreationDate="2011-01-20T16:06:16.443" Score="5" ViewCount="1359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed an amber ale kit on Sunday (my second time brewing at all). Using white labs wlp008. I left the carboy upstairs and the fermentation was very rapid and extremely active for two days reaching temps of 75F+. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I moved the carboy to my basement thinking that this was to hot and now am at 68F. My question is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A) should I have moved it at all? looking at this previous question &quot;Temperature swing of 10+ degrees during fermentation&quot; makes my wonder if those high fermentation temps going to affect diacetyl levels (referring to Brandons answer) or if the cooling drop moving it to the basement is going to produce acetaldehyde's (referring to Bakas answer) I know that was about a porter but maybe it still applies. And B) should I leave it at the current 68F or move it back up to the higher temp? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what kind of off flavors might I expect to see due to these temps (I am still trying to figure out exactly what these &quot;off flavors&quot; taste like).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T22:39:07.620" Title="should i keep my carboy at current fermentation temp after moving from 75F+ to 68F?" Tags="|troubleshooting|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3199" CreationDate="2011-01-20T16:24:05.003" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was definitely a good idea to move it.  Leave it where it is.  Personally, I would have moved it to someplace even cooler.  I prefer to ferment generally ion the 62-65F range.  The best thing to do is chill your wort to just below the temp you want to ferment.  The heat of fermentation will bring it up into range.  The temp you started at might have produced some harsh fusel alcohols.  If so, they will eventually age out to some degree.  As long as the yeast is still active, it will consume diacetyl and acetaldehyde and those shouldn't be a problem.  Here's a good description of some common off flavors from How to Brew  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;off flavors&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2011-01-26T22:39:07.620" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T22:39:07.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3199" CreationDate="2011-01-20T16:25:44.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would personally leave is at the lower temperature which is probably where it should have been all along.  If the yeast is still active at the lower temperature you shouldn't get any more off flavors from the temperature change.  Although the damage may have already been done at the 75+ fermentation temps.  You will get lots of phenol production like medicinal and band-aid flavors along with some higher alcohols.  It is possible that the yeast may reabsorb some of the flavors but it may need to age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T16:25:44.613" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3203" CreationDate="2011-01-20T16:31:17.697" Score="19" ViewCount="218279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a kegerator setup with CO2 and a tap.  Once a keg has been put into the kegerator, how long will it stay good?  What can I do to ensure that I get the longest life possible out of a keg once it's been tapped?  Is there some way (aside from the flavor changing) to know that it's gone bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the answer to this question different for homebrew kegs than for commercial kegs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="918" LastEditorUserId="918" LastEditDate="2011-01-20T16:37:03.293" LastActivityDate="2014-12-27T22:39:51.163" Title="How long do I have to finish a keg once it's been tapped?" Tags="|keg|kegerator|shelf-life|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2011-01-20T16:46:27.723" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you drink the keg, you're replacing the beer in the keg with CO2. The CO2 isn't going to stale your beer. As long as you are keeping the pressure in the keg high enough to ensure that the carbonation doesn't dissipate into the keg's head space, the beer should stay tasty for quite a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike kegerators, hand-pump kegs replace the beer with air, which causes staling and allows the co2 in the beer to evolve out, leaving you with flat beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not going to drink from the keg for a while, it's a good idea to disconnect it from the intake/outake lines. Just make sure you've pressurized the keg appropriately, then disconnect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T16:46:27.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2011-01-20T16:59:34.830" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the beer is being kept cool and you are using CO2 to push (which I assume you are) then it can last for months.  I think the longest I've ever had a Corny keg last is three months, but that was finishing it, not spoilage.  Kept refrigerated, sealed and under CO2, it should last longer than it takes you to drink it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing you may want to keep aware of is the cleanliness of your taps.  The taps and lines will be dirty long before the keg goes bad or runs out.  Regular cleaning (about once a month) is necessary.  Dirty taps and lines can make a good beer taste bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T16:59:34.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3206" CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:26:15.083" Score="3" ViewCount="1753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottle about a third of my batches in longnecks with crown caps.  On my most recent brew (that's carbing up now) I forgot to sanitize the caps.  Didn't realize this until I had bottled everything and was getting ready to cap the bottles and reached into my bucket of sanitized gear to grab a few caps and... oops!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally sanitize more than the needed number of caps, and had enough caps that were sanitized months ago to cap everything up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is that if the beer stays upright (in cases/crates) and the beer doesn't sit on the caps, do I need to worry about infection, or should I just meditate to the mantra Charlie Papazian gave us all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T18:18:45.077" Title="Is there a problem if one forgets to sanitize caps?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|sanitation|caps|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3205" CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:32:29.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlikely to be a problem. In an &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3121/boiling-bottle-caps&quot;&gt;earlier question&lt;/a&gt; I found that some pro-brewers don't sanitize their caps at all. Neither do some home brewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T17:32:29.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3210" CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:58:57.583" Score="2" ViewCount="2888" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first brew day is approaching and in preparation I have been monitoring the temperature of the room I plan to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially I was seeing daily fluctuations from 16C to 25C as the heating came on and off.  Obviously that wasn't going to be suitable so I turned the heating off in this room and now have a fairly consistent 16C to 17C which seems a little cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this ambient/room temperature still be suitable as the fermentation process will generate heat itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T13:39:12.223" Title="How does ambient/room temperature compare to fermentation temperature?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3207" CreationDate="2011-01-20T18:15:23.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation will generate some heat relative to the activity of the yeast; however if you can provide a constant and suitable ambient temperature then there are other aspects of brewing that should probably be given priority above fine-grain temperature control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you've got a stable room temp (a &quot;good&quot; temp is really yeast/style dependant) then you should be fine.  Go through your brew day and focus on making the beer correctly, then slap a fermometer on the fermenter and just observe what happens.  If your first couple batches are anything like mine then you'll make, and learn from, many small mistakes initially--so focusing on perfecting one aspect probably won't payoff until you're comfortable with the whole process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2011-01-20T19:50:05.560" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T19:50:05.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3205" CreationDate="2011-01-20T18:18:45.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a factor in whether/whether-not is how your caps are packaged when you buy them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I buy from a bulk bin at the local homebrew--you stick your hand in and grab them fistful at a time.  Since there's been who-knows-how-many other hands in that bin I insist on sanitizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your caps are pre-packaged when you buy them then there's likely less risk they're contaminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T18:18:45.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3207" CreationDate="2011-01-20T18:18:48.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the first couple days of active fermentation, the beer itself can rise to as much as 10F over ambient temp.  That's why it's always best to chill your wort to a bit below fermentation temp and let the activity of fermentation bring it into the correct range.  17C would be an excellent temp for the beer.  Be sure that you measure the beer temp, not the room temp.  Thsoe stick on fermometer strips work well and are remarkably accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T18:18:48.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3186" CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:19:15.067" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Alcohol and Gaming Commission of Ontario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;You may make beer or wine at home as long as it is only for your personal consumption or to be given away free of charge. Homemade (or &quot;u-brew&quot;) beer or wine may not be sold or used commercially.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.agco.on.ca/en/faqs/faqs_alcohol.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.agco.on.ca/en/faqs/faqs_alcohol.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T20:19:15.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3295" CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:25:19.227" Score="10" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering trying to brew a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/recipeindex/article/recipes/93-belgian-lambic-and-sour-ale/2284--piatzs-basic-lambic&quot;&gt;simple lambic&lt;/a&gt;, which requires some open-air time for wild fermentation and souring of the wort prior to pitching yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I could use a carboy as the vessel for this, or if its small mouth would prevent the desirable bacteria and wild yeast from making it into the wort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2011-01-20T23:21:08.150" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T23:46:54.897" Title="Will a carboy's narrow opening hinder or prevent successful wild fermentation?" Tags="|wild-yeast|lambics|open-fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3212" CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:33:57.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I imagine that you could put a portion of the wort (a gallon or so) into another vessel with a wider open surface overnight (maybe a big kitchen pot or something), and then pour that into the main portion of the wort once it has gathered up some bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you inocculating at all, or just trying to see if your &quot;house bugs&quot; are any good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T20:33:57.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3212" CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:43:48.563" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will have a much better chance of success if you ferment the beer first with a neutral ale yeast, and then pitch &quot;bugs&quot; (brett, pedio, whatever you like) into it.  Simply open fermenting and seeing what happens is seldom successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T22:43:48.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3218" CreationDate="2011-01-21T04:14:19.543" Score="7" ViewCount="5890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a yeast starter for a lager.  I even went out and got a 3000 ml Erlenmyer Flask.  According to mrmalty.com's calculator I need 506 Billion cells.  With the two vials of White Labs yeast it says I need 3.34 Liters of wort.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1)I've searched but can't seem to find clear instructions on stepping up a starter. I understand the procedure, but what wort volumes would I need to have for a two step starter?&#xA;OR&#xA;2) should I just do this starter in a growler and leave my new erlenmyer flask sitting in the box until next time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="690" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:14:19.593" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:14:19.593" Title="Yeast Starter Steps" Tags="|yeast|techniques|yeast-starters|calculations|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2011-01-21T13:33:35.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are using his pitching rate calculator, here is what I would suggest: Switch it from &quot;Simple Starter&quot; to either &quot;Simple Starter with O2 at Start&quot; or &quot;Simple Starter with Intermittent Shaking.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;O2 at Start basically means you shake it up really well when you start the fermentation of the starter (or if you add oxygen via diffusion stone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intermittent Shaking means you will shake up the starter whenever it is convenient for you to do so--usually every couple of hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll get a lot more yeast by shaking rather than just letting the flask sit there on its own, and you'll need far less starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already did this and &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; need to step up a starter, here's how:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make your yeast starter at the full volume of your flask&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait until it seems to have stopped fermenting significantly (12 hours to 3 days depending on the viability on the yeast, oxygen, and other conditions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the flask in the fridge until most of the yeast has settled into a cake at the bottom of the flask&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decant the liquid from atop the yeast cake by slowly pouring it out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add new wort and let that build up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, I would highly recommend picking up a stir plate for your yeast starters--you'll be able to build up even more yeast with less wort and liquid vials. I purchased mine for cheap at a place called Brewers Hardware ($44). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewershardware.com/Brewers-Hardware-Stir-Plate.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewershardware.com/Brewers-Hardware-Stir-Plate.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastEditorUserId="907" LastEditDate="2011-01-21T15:17:13.250" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T15:17:13.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3207" CreationDate="2011-01-21T13:39:12.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your original question, yes, the ambient room temperature you have will be perfectly fine for ale fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of simplicity, I would suggest cooling your wort to the lowest recommended temperature your yeast indicates (e.g. 18C or so) and begin fermentation there. The yeast will bring the heat of the wort up some as it ferments but the beginning temperature combined with the slightly lower ambient temperature will keep it within a good temperature range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T13:39:12.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:18:54.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a NB document that outlines how to use one and two stage &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/YeastPitchingRates.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;yeast starter.&lt;/a&gt; There are some lengthy equations that can easily be entered into a spreadsheet for easy calculation.  It will also give you the different rates when using a stir plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T15:18:54.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="245" CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:26:23.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To put a nail in this question: You do not need to puts hops in yeast starters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason to add hops to a yeast starter is because the alpha acids in hops have an antibiotic quality that inhibits the growth of Gram-positive bacteria, thus making way for brewer's yeast to do its work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, assuming you properly sanitize (which you should--you're a homebrewer!), there's really no tangible benefit to adding hops to a yeast starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it really makes you feel better, add a couple of hop pellets or leaves to your starter and don't panic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T15:26:23.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="263" CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:39:17.380" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend making a yeast starter for every beer you use liquid yeast for (I have little experience with dry yeast because I stopped using it after my first few batches). You don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; a starter all the time, but it's on my list of best practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will almost always see better fermentation if you use a starter. It will start faster (which helps a ton to prevent the bad bugs from getting at your wort before the yeast get into full swing), and you'll be certain that you have healthy yeast to make a beautiful-tasting beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you forget to make a starter well before you brew (1-3 days), you will benefit from making a small starter on the morning of your brew day just to ensure you've got some healthy yeast and so your fermentation kicks off quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Lazy Brewer's Guide to a Simple Starter (assuming you know how to make a starter and you want to be a little lazy or forgot to make one before brew day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add 1/2 cup of Dry Malt Extract (DME) for every 500 ml of starter you are making. e.g. for a 1000 ml starter, add 1 cup of DME. For a 2000 ml starter, add 2 cups. Simple.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I measure water with my Erlenmeyer Flask at the size of the starter--the boil off + DME volume tends to even it out pretty much perfectly on a little below medium heat on my stove. So, for a 1000 ml starter I use 1000 ml of water. Simple.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil for 10 minutes. It should be vigorous enough that the wort turns over, but shouldn't be making liquid jump off the surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool the wort in your flask or starter vessel with foil on top (sanitizes the foil if you don't have a spray bottle of Star San or equivalent on hand... and keeps bad bugs out).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shake it up, add your yeast. Shake it up whenever you think about it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add it to your cooled wort after brewing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of steps makes it sound like a pain, but I probably spend 5 minutes of effort on any of my starters and it makes my beer better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastEditorUserId="907" LastEditDate="2011-01-21T15:46:20.270" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T15:46:20.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="263" CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:44:11.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should always pitch the appropriate amount of yeast.  Whether it comes from a starter or more packages of yeast from the store is secondary to that.   So if you pitch 5 vials of yeast that's fine to get there rather than do a 4 L starter, that's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A starter has the advantage of pitching active or healthier yeast than whats in the packages usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.070 is a weird place to make the cut.  I think 1.040 is a more appropriate gravity to draw that grey line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T15:44:11.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="263" CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:54:09.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't really a 'hard line' of gravity above which you must use a starter, that is because yeast packages are not always the same age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you're making a beer that has an OG of 1.040 and you buy a yeast vial that is only one week old. 92 % of the yeast in that vial is viable (according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jamil's calculator&lt;/a&gt;). So you could probably go without a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if that vial is a month old? 75% viable, and now you need a starter. 2 months? 54% viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said here the goal is to use the right amount of yeast. But the real goal is to use the right amount of &lt;strong&gt;healthy&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;viable&lt;/strong&gt; yeast. Using a calculator like Jamil's will help you figure out what that amount is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T15:54:09.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-21T16:12:18.293" Score="5" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone use a standard base malt to build your recipes from? What are the advantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of obvious advantages would be having the ability to buy large bags of the base malt (and ensuring that it's still fresh when you use it) and having a consistent base to build from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always built my recipes using different base malts for flavor. For example, if I want a malty British style beer, I tend to use Maris Otter as my base. If I brew a Belgian beer, I use a Belgian pale or pils as the base. Etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about trying to convert all of my recipes to use a readily-available pale malt (e.g. Briess), but trying to match the flavor profiles provided by the other base malts has prevented me from doing so thus far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that has stopped me is that I have dozens of recipes I've brewed multiple times and adjusted for taste and a good 5 or so that I'm already extremely satisfied with (I'd say that I've &quot;perfected&quot; them but that's not possible when you like experimenting as much as I do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T13:04:24.163" Title="Do you use a default/standard base malt? What are the advantages?" Tags="|ingredients|malt|base-malt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2011-01-21T17:00:54.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a 15.5 gallon keg of beer be good over a year later.  Kept in house at room temperature.  Not just acceptable, but just as good as when it was kegged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T17:00:54.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3227" CreationDate="2011-01-21T17:30:57.200" Score="2" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the process for steeping grains I see that it omits a vorlauf.  Would crushing steeping grains in the same way as mashing grains produce too much fine particulate?  Should wort from steeping grains be filtered in a process like vorlauf (either in purpose or practice)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T00:56:39.093" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:56:39.093" Title="Should steeping grains be crushed differently than mashing grains?" Tags="|beer|techniques|steeping|crush|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3223" CreationDate="2011-01-21T17:37:53.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received a couple hundred pounds of free base malt a few years ago and used it in a lot of different styles of beer.  What I found is that it did fine in beers that had a higher percentage of specialty grains or was less malt focused.  Styles like American barley wine, American Stout, IPA, and Blond ales it seemed to work well because it just needed to provide sugar.  In malt focused beers or single malt beers such as Scottish, Bocks, and Belgians it left the beers more one dimensional and fairly uninteresting.  If you brew enough it's pretty easy to justify a 50# grain purchase as long as you have enough styles you can use the base malt with.  I wouldn't however change my existing recipes just to use one particular base malt unless you get a bunch of free malt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T17:37:53.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3225" CreationDate="2011-01-21T17:58:43.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you steep your grains the main goal is to extract mainly color and flavor from the grain, a bonus of the process is you will get some starch conversion to sugar.  In order to extract the color and flavor the grain does need to be crushed in the same manor as an all grain mash.  I believe that due to the relatively small amount of specialty grains typically used that a vorlauf/sparge is not necessary and overkill for a pound of grain.  You can always reduce the amount of small particulates by shaking the steeping bag out before adding to the water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T17:58:43.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3223" CreationDate="2011-01-21T18:01:29.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep 600-1K lb. of malt on hand usually.  For American styles, Rahr pale is my standard.  For German or Belgian styles, my standard base is Best pils.  For darker German styles, it's Best Munich.  I've experimented with many different malts over the years and these have become my favorites.  I don't use Maris Otter since I don't brew British styles and I don't care for it for American styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T18:01:29.107" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3225" CreationDate="2011-01-21T18:04:54.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;And you should use the same amount of water for steeping as you would for mashing to avoid potential tannin extraction due to pH.  The grain has a natural tendency to reduce the pH of your water.  The darker the grain, the more it will drop pH.  pH, not temp, is the #1 culprit in tannin extraction, so if you use too much water the grain won't be able to overcome it.  You should steep using no more than 2 qt. water/lb. of grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T18:04:54.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3232" CreationDate="2011-01-21T18:24:53.823" Score="8" ViewCount="6868" Body="&lt;p&gt;When all-grain brewing, you typically add all your grains to the mash, right?  Is there ever a time when you leave some of the specialty grains out and steep them instead?  What are the pros and cons of mashing everything versus leaving some grains out of the mash and steeping them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T22:30:39.757" Title="What are the pros and cons of adding specialty grains to the mash?" Tags="|all-grain|steeping|mashing|specialty-grains|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-21T19:43:14.167" Score="3" ViewCount="864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been making mead for awhile now, and I just came across Mead Jelly in the market.  The jelly was excellent on hard cheese, and I'm wondering if anyone has made it and would like to share their recipe...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="749" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-02-04T12:56:24.490" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T17:29:26.503" Title="Recipes for Mead Jelly" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3230" CreationDate="2011-01-21T19:44:37.430" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some specialty grains (e.g. dextrin/cara-pils) need to be mashed. These need to be mashed, because they require a chemical reaction to take place to be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some (e.g. crystal) need only to be steeped, but can also be put in the mash. These do not need a chemical reaction to take place to be useful, they just need to have the chemicals in them extracted into the wort (e.g., through steeping, then adding the &quot;tea&quot; into the wort). There is no benefit to steeping them when you're doing a mash anyway, the only reason they are steeped is if you're doing an extract brew (in which case you're not doing a mash -- steeping is less trouble). You steep the specialty malt instead of boiling it, because boiling it releases bitter tannins and other undesirable chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up: if you're doing a mash, put the specialty grains in; there's no reason to steep them instead. If you're not doing a mash, steep them, because it's easier than mashing. This only works for the non-enzymatic specialty malts that don't require a mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T19:44:37.430" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3230" CreationDate="2011-01-21T21:00:12.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't think of any reason why you would ever need to do a separate steeping of grain.  You are basically steeping the grain in the mash.  Caramel malts are fully converted in the husks during the malting process and kilned with a moisture content of 50% which caramelizes the sugars inside, which means the sugars are ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the pros to adding the specialty grain to the mash would be you don't need to do anything else and the cons would be that you would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T21:00:12.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3161" CreationDate="2011-01-22T15:57:45.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you're primarily looking for clarity in your beer, then the easiest solution is to cold-crash it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold-crashing basically consists of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving the beer (and not the trub) to another vessel (anything you'd use for a secondary)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Placing the beer in the fridge for ~2 days to allow the beer to settle out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottling as usual&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cold temp will really help clarify the beer.  It doesn't harm the beer or affect the flavor at all, and there's still plenty of healthy yeast in the beer to handle bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T15:57:45.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3236" CreationDate="2011-01-22T18:09:45.137" Score="5" ViewCount="1555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard there are negative effects of oxygenating wort before a boil.  I don't lauter right into my boil kettle, but just dump the wort into it when I hit my target volume.  There's a lot of splashing going into the boil kettle, can somebody explain what effects the pre-boil oxygenation will have on my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T02:45:46.327" Title="Oxygenating wort before boil" Tags="|oxygenation|lauter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3235" CreationDate="2011-01-22T18:27:57.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Little to none, most likely.   Between boiling most of the oxygen out, putting more oxygen back in, and then the yeast multiplying and eating up whatever is in suspension, it's really not something you need to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should definitely be concerned about excessive oxygen post-fermentation, but I don't think it matters much on the hot side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T18:27:57.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3235" CreationDate="2011-01-22T18:45:02.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're asking about is usually called &quot;Hot Side Aeration&quot;, or HSA. A few years ago, there was a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com/hot-side-aeration/124&quot;&gt;lot of concern about HSA&lt;/a&gt; and people thought that excessive mash stirring or splashing could lead to early staling of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, opinion is that HSA is just not a big deal for home brewers. It's something that large, commercial breweries might have to worry about. But on homebrew scale, it's just not a concern. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/wizard/article/section/121-mr-wizard/866-hot-side-aeration-a-storing-hops-mr-wizard&quot;&gt;An older column by BYO's Mr. Wizard explains why&lt;/a&gt; as does this more &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/475&quot;&gt;recent episode of Brew Strong with Dr. Charlie Bamforth&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Brew Strong episode is well worth a listen. Bamforth knows his stuff and he really breaks down the science.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T18:45:02.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3239" CreationDate="2011-01-22T18:48:14.437" Score="6" ViewCount="542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been doing it lately, assuming it will reduce the amount of crap I have to filter out after the boil, and it seems to reduce the amount of head I get during the boil (less chance of a boil over).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody else do this or does anybody have any insight as to whether or not I should be doing it and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T07:05:41.007" Title="Does anybody else skim the protein off the top of their boil?" Tags="|boil|boilover|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3238" CreationDate="2011-01-22T18:53:08.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't.   Mostly because I'm lazy, but I think it also serves as some extra nutrients for the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T18:53:08.063" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3258" CreationDate="2011-01-22T20:18:52.673" Score="8" ViewCount="913" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just curious how many volumes of CO2 most average beer bottles can hold.  Is there a rough number where alarms should start going off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update -- I'm seeing in different carbonation calculators that some styles suggest being carbonated to close to 5.0 volumes.  If that is the upward limit, should most bottles be able to handle that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2011-01-26T22:20:23.110" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T22:20:23.110" Title="What is the danger zone for overcarbonating and making bottle bombs?" Tags="|beer|bottling|carbonation|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3238" CreationDate="2011-01-22T20:55:49.637" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried doing it for a couple years.  I found it made no difference whatsoever to the beer quality so now I don't bother.  The only valid reason I've heard for doing it is to help prevent boilovers on small kettles, but I find Fermcap far more effective for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T20:55:49.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3240" CreationDate="2011-01-22T21:27:25.133" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer:   I'm just some dude on the internet.   Anything I say is for recreational purposes only.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't carbonate over 2.5-3 volumes of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in the normal beer bottles that we get the majority of our non-Belgian beers from.   For anything higher than 3 volumes of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, I'd try to find the heavier weight bottles (think Duvel &amp;amp; Westmalle bottles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T21:27:25.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3246" CreationDate="2011-01-23T15:09:03.063" Score="5" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've decided to start a program of creating sour beers where every 3 months I'll brew a new sour beer and set up a closet for aging of the beers.  Given the length of the process and the amount I brew, I'm going to explore a spectrum versus trying to nail down one recipe and be able to repeat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good sources for recipes and techniques for sour beers ?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2011-01-23T20:41:10.240" Title="Resources (advice and recipes) for sour beers" Tags="|sour|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3245" CreationDate="2011-01-23T20:38:12.383" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to home brewing sours &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/&quot;&gt;The Mad Fermentationist&lt;/a&gt; should be your first stop. His blog is quite large, and full of great information. His &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2009/11/brewing-sour-beer-at-home.html&quot;&gt;intro to brewing sours&lt;/a&gt; is probably the best place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-01-23T20:38:12.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3245" CreationDate="2011-01-23T20:41:10.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wild Brews, by Jeff Sparrow has a whole lot of information about how the pros do it, and has a few recipes in the back of the book, which look interesting, but I haven't tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast, by Chris White &amp;amp; Jamil Zainasheff has a couple of sections on Brettanomyces, which might prove useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-23T20:41:10.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3248" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:21:01.883" Score="3" ViewCount="1024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a beer that I going to brew, it is technically a gruit, b/c I am not going to use any hops.  The original beer recipe (an American Hefe) calls for only one ounce of 4-6% alpha bittering hops and a 60 minute boil.  The OG will be between 1.045 - 1.055.  About how much wormwood should I add and how long should I boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T23:09:56.837" Title="Using wormwood as a bittering agent: How much and when?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3256" CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:40:52.600" Score="9" ViewCount="4928" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so I'm now bottling my first batch. I opened the primary fermenter (did not use a secondary) and I've racked the beer to the bottling container. It smells hoppy and delicious. I'm pleased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I taste just a bit before I begin to bottle... and it tastes... bitter. Sort of burned maybe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know (now) I didn't do a good enough job pouring the wort off the trub - I definitely left too much trub in the fermenter. Is that the reason? Will it mellow as it bottle conditions? Should I trash the whole batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm bummed and looking for some direction - I appreciate any thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:39:32.697" LastActivityDate="2018-09-02T22:30:54.893" Title="Tasting my uncarbonated beer: Bitter." Tags="|troubleshooting|bitterness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3254" CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:54:30.897" Score="9" ViewCount="1930" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is one better than the other? Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carboy Cap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVRcV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Carboy Cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/3-5-6-gall-carboy-cap-orange.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/3-5-6-gall-carboy-cap-orange.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;vs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stopper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtdEI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/no-6-5-drilled-stopper.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/no-6-5-drilled-stopper.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T01:55:34.353" Title="Carboy Cap vs. Stopper" Tags="|equipment|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3249" CreationDate="2011-01-23T23:10:06.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot happens during carbonation. I just finished an ESB batch that was intensely bitter before carbonation, but tastes quite fine now. Bottle it up and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-01-23T23:10:06.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3253" CreationDate="2011-01-24T00:08:35.163" Score="1" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;My LHBS sells whole hops, hop pellets, and hop plugs. Is there a way to know which this recipe calls for, and is there some sort of conversion formula between the different forms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lancasterhomebrew.com/2010/06/bells-hopslam-clone-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://lancasterhomebrew.com/2010/06/bells-hopslam-clone-recipe/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user934" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T00:59:53.083" Title="What form of hops should I use for this recipe?" Tags="|beer|hops|ingredients|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3252" CreationDate="2011-01-24T00:28:49.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way to know anything about this recipe as no IBUs are given.  You also have no alpha acid levels given so its tough to know how much you'd need to adjust the hops you buy to the hops in this recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say just go with pellets as that is what the majority of homebrew recipes are built around.  Go with the amounts as written.  Taste it then make some adjustments for the second round of brewing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T00:28:49.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3250" CreationDate="2011-01-24T00:36:22.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually like the cap.  The reason being is that I feel its better for sanitation.  The carboy cap wraps down and over the edges of the top/neck of the carboy opening.  So after a fermenting session I spray down the cap with sanitizer before I take it off.  The sanitizer drips down the neck of the carboy.  Using a stopper the sanitizer drips down into the crevice between the stopper and the opening of the carboy neck.  Then when you pull the stopper out that stuff drips down into the fermentor.  In theory its sanitized, but its still getting in the fermentor.  Now if your not in the habit of spraying the stopper/cap/neck of your carboy before you open it like I am, then dust and dirt that has fallen into that little crevice is definitely getting into your fermentor and beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I prefer the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record though I have several caps and stoppers.  I do use the stoppers on occasion.  But the cap just makes me feel better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-01-24T01:55:34.353" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T01:55:34.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3252" CreationDate="2011-01-24T00:59:53.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge there is no real functional difference between whole flowers, plugs, and pellets.  I have used them all interchangeably.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest just using pellets or whole flowers.  How much you use should be specified in the recipe.  As Brewchez rightly suggests, you can't hit an IBU target without knowing what that should be and the alpha acids of the hops.  The latter is listed on the hop package.  The former, well who knows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to enter the recipe into a brew calculator or figure it out by hand in order to hit the IBU target (whatever that is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T00:59:53.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3249" CreationDate="2011-01-24T01:05:51.517" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3111/why-do-all-my-beers-taste-better-after-having-aged-for-a-couple-months/3118#3118&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; answers your question.  Your beer is young and very green.  It needs time to age.  Don't despair. Give it time, both to carbonate in the bottle and age a bit after that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many home brewers are too quick to judge in the primary, secondary, or bottle bucket.  Excellent beer takes time.  I've had beers that are TERRIBLE in the bottle bucket and AWESOME after a few months to age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your beer will be fine!  Be patient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T01:05:51.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3248" CreationDate="2011-01-24T02:01:18.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no good bittering values ascribed to the many herbs used to design gruits.  It comes down mostly to experimentation and the expectation that you won't make the best gruit on the first pass.  I'd suggest looking for recipes for gruit with wormwood for guidance.  Or start with a one gallon batch for test runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T02:01:18.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3240" CreationDate="2011-01-24T02:12:58.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say this is sort of a moving target.  Mainly because bottles do lose their structural integrity slightly every time they get used.  More so if they bottles are baked in the oven or exposed to the heat-dry cycle of a dishwasher that accelerates the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said if we just assume newer bottles all the time, I'd think that you can contact the bottle manufacturer for guidance.  The shop you buy your bottles from can share the manufacturer contact info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also sure that your local budweiser brewery knows this information inside and out.  An email to them, pointing out you are a curious homebrewer, may get a response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T02:12:58.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3260" CreationDate="2011-01-24T14:07:12.240" Score="14" ViewCount="51217" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first batch started fermenting 8 days ago.  The beer is still fresh and very cloudy, but I'm wondering if its possible to over-ferment a beer?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I let it sit for another 2 weeks (or however long, the length of time is unimportant to the actual question) prior to bottling will I gain/lose anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="938" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T20:20:49.480" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T23:07:40.443" Title="Is it possible to over-ferment?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3259" CreationDate="2011-01-24T14:25:25.493" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, no. Beer yeast can only eat certain kinds of sugars in wort. And once they've exhausted their food supply, they can't ferment any more and they settle to the bottom of the fermenter. What kind of sugars they eat &amp;amp; how much they eat is dependent on the yeast strain, the wort and the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one time you might 'over ferment' is if your beer gets a wild yeast infection. Wild yeast can eat more types of sugars than brewer's yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But don't worry about wild yeasts right now. A cloudy beer after 8 days is not a big deal. It will probably clarify over time. It might not ever be crystal clear -- because home brewers don't filter or centrifuge their beers like many commercial brewers -- but it will still taste fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T14:25:25.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3275" CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:29:44.800" Score="7" ViewCount="1656" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the Pros and Cons of the different keg types, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic barrel keg, such as a King Keg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cornelius/Corny Keg?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt; - following the comment from PJ can I clarify that this question is not limited to the 2 keg types above.  Please do bring other types and/or variations of keg into the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastEditorUserId="758" LastEditDate="2011-01-24T23:00:00.463" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T19:39:35.957" Title="Pros and Cons of different keg types?" Tags="|keg|corny-keg|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3268" CreationDate="2011-01-24T23:51:47.480" Score="6" ViewCount="34766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to start growing my own hops and want to know what the ideal climate is.  I've read that hops will grow in most areas of North America, but there must be places where they grow better than other.  Do some varieties grow better in certain climates while another climate might be more suited towards a different variety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T00:39:42.120" Title="What is the ideal climate for growing hops?" Tags="|hops|grow|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-25T00:02:38.640" Score="2" ViewCount="547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a Pom Cider and the bubbler cap got taken off my cider, 2 days later it has stopped fermenting and is darkening in color. Is it done? Is is bad? Can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;~~J&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user942" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2011-01-25T00:12:07.323" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T01:32:45.673" Title="My cider stopped fermenting after it accidentally got opened and darkened in color" Tags="|troubleshooting|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3263" CreationDate="2011-01-25T01:32:45.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long had it been fermenting before the cap got removed?   I've never brewed a cider, but beer and mead both darken in color as the yeast fall out of suspension.   Pull a sample and check the gravity and the flavor.   It may be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T01:32:45.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3267" CreationDate="2011-01-25T02:08:13.773" Score="2" ViewCount="2238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using a stainless braid for the last 3 years or so in my Igloo Ice Cube cooler.   Despite my being careful, it has gotten compressed in a couple of places over the years, and I'd like to switch to some sort of more rigid material for the manifold/screen.   I have seen both CPVC and Copper suggested for this, but I am curious about the pros and cons of each.  Is there some other material that might be better suited to the rigors and requirements of a homebrewer's mash tun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-02-15T15:33:19.240" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T15:33:19.240" Title="Which material for a manifold in a converted cooler mash tun?" Tags="|equipment|mash-tun|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3265" CreationDate="2011-01-25T12:37:01.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using a copper manifold for several years now and have found no problems with it.  It was a great investment and continues to allow wort to flow even with gluten heavy mashes.  It was simple to assemble since there was not soldering or sweating needed.  The pieces just fit together in the tun.  Cutting the copper was the hardest part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T12:37:01.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3265" CreationDate="2011-01-25T13:57:56.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used CPVC to build mine.  I chose this because it was cheaper than copper with the current copper prices sky-high.  I read that you can get away without gluing the manifold together, but I found that the pieces don't fit tightly enough to ensure 100% against coming apart when stirring the mash, so I glued it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a good bit of home plumbing experience - both sweating copper and gluing PVC - and from that I can say that copper will hold together better without sweating than CPVC will without gluing.  So if you feel you need to be able to take it apart to clean it, go with copper.  That said, I've found I don't need to be able to take it apart.  After cleaning out the tun and rinsing everything, I put the manifold back in and fill the tun with about two gallons of hot water and 2 tbsp of oxiclean free (or one-step) and let it sit overnight.  The next morning I open the ball valve and let it drain.  Any grain or sugars that might have still been inside the manifold come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;likely to hold together better without needing to be soldered&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more expensive (at least currently - prices fluctuate wildly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more skill required to adhere it if you want to&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;special tools required to cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;difficult to de-burr the inside if you cut slits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CPVC Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cheaper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy to adhere (but cpvc cement and primer will cost $10-15 as you have to buy way more than you need (then again, you don't really need primer because the joint doesn't need to be absolutely leak-proof))&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy to cut slots &amp;amp; drill holes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can be de-burred with your fingers and anything you can fit into the slots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CPVC Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more likely to come apart if not glued&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pics of my glued CPVC manifold:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3GykG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NJ26l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="430" LastEditDate="2011-01-25T16:12:01.997" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T16:12:01.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3262" CreationDate="2011-01-25T14:04:53.310" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops can grow well anywhere between the 30th and 50th parallels.  How well they do in a small-scale, home gardener setting is really up to how good of a gardener you are, which in turn comes down to how dedicated you are to their upkeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, hops are very fast growers and as such require a lot of water.  This is why the Pacific Northwest of the US is a major hop growing region - they get a lot of rain there, meaning they don't need to provide much irrigation to keep the hop bines happy.  But in your own back yard, as long as you're willing to water them thoroughly a couple of times per week and if you are sure to start them off in quality soil, they'll grow very well for you.  In fact, they spread and can be invasive, not unlike morning glories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought my rhizomes from Freshops.  They have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freshops.com/hop-growing/hop-gardening&quot;&gt;good writeup on hop gardening&lt;/a&gt; on their site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as different varieties go, the main thing to look out for is their pest and disease resistance.  Some varieties are more susceptible to, say, powdery mildew than others.  Choose varieties that are hardy against your region's known plant diseases and pests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T14:04:53.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2916" CreationDate="2011-01-25T16:35:23.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little late to this question, but I thought one solution might be to put down a layer of fiberglass fabric, the kind that is impregnated with epoxy to form fiberglass hulls and such.  In its fabric form it is easy easy to lay down underneath and around the burner, non-conductive (if you have electric burners), impervious to heat, and an excellent insulator that should block most of the radiant heat coming off the burner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="943" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T16:35:23.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3265" CreationDate="2011-01-25T16:41:20.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;3 years is a pretty good run for something that costs about $10 and takes 10 minutes to set up. Keep that in mind when exploring other options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T16:41:20.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3278" CreationDate="2011-01-25T17:32:00.653" Score="7" ViewCount="33693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that in a very general sense, yeast = good, bacteria = bad.  But why is this?  Do bacteria produce alcohol like yeast?  Is yeast a subset of all bacteria, or vice versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-01-25T19:06:32.597" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T14:41:27.470" Title="Whats the difference between yeast and bacteria?" Tags="|yeast|bacteria|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3271" CreationDate="2011-01-25T18:47:24.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't know this until pulling up Wikipedia, but yeast is part of the Fungi Kingdom, whereas bacteria are part of the (go figure) Bacteria Kingdom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's not a terribly informative answer, but it indicates that even though they're both single-celled organisms they are very significantly different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T18:47:24.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3271" CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:25:06.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different microorganisms vastly change the result of a fermentation. I would argue that the strain of yeast you use usually has a greater effect on the character of the beer than anything else. Bacteria that could infect your beer, especially coliforms and lactobacilli, produce acid that sour your beer (ever wonder where malt vinegar comes from?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T23:25:06.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2011-01-26T00:33:22.470" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;BeerSmith user here.  Never tried the other pay-apps, so I can't compare.  I tried the 30 day free trial, then bought it.  $20 well spent.  The author is a homebrewer and author as well (blog/book).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user946" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T00:33:22.470" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3261" CreationDate="2011-01-26T14:00:50.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it comes down mostly to materials.  You don't want to store your beer in a plastic &quot;keg&quot; for any length of time.  Stainless steel is a better option because its easier to clean, it can get banged around, and it lasts longer.  The rest just comes down to size issues and what suits your needs.  You can get 3 gallon kegs up to full on half barrels (15.5 gallons).  The larger sizes often have different connections.  In the homebrew world you are talking ball lock and pin lock.  The commercial get world is sanke taps and a whole list of other European style taps too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T14:00:50.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3271" CreationDate="2011-01-26T16:58:16.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bacteria and Yeast exist in different kingdoms of the classification system we use for living things.  The primary difference is that bacteria are Prokaryotes, while yeast (fungi) are eukaryotes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to knock yourself out here is the difference between the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cod.edu/people/faculty/fancher/prokeuk.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pro- and the eukaryotes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T16:58:16.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3248" CreationDate="2011-01-26T23:09:56.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could make two teas with equal volumes of water and equal mass of wormwood &amp;amp; hops in each one, and compare the bitterness levels.   Try and get some other people to compare them as well, if you have willing tasters around.   You may have to make a few batches to really get it figured out.   If you have a few different types of hops, you could make several batches, so you could have a better basis for comparison.   More bitter than Saaz doesn't really mean that much.   More bitter than Columbus, and you know you really don't want to use much at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T23:09:56.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3271" CreationDate="2011-01-26T23:54:28.933" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bacteria and Yeast are not related in any genetic sense.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast, by and large, eat sugar and produce alcohol and various esters and phenols (and CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;).   To most brewers (and vintners), though, the only yeast of any consequence is &lt;i&gt;Saccharomyces&lt;/i&gt;, and any other microbe is to be avoided at all costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Brettanomyces&lt;/i&gt; is another yeast genus, which typically produces &quot;wild&quot; flavors (from pineapple and cherry to horse blanket and mouse poop) and aromas (&quot;Bad feet or good cheese,&quot; as a friend of mine says).   It is considered a flaw in many beers, but is essential to the flavor of a certain subset.  &lt;i&gt;Brettanomyces&lt;/i&gt; can also break down and consume sugars that &lt;i&gt;Sacchromyces&lt;/i&gt; finds unfermentable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different bacteria eat different substances and produce different things as a result.  There are several that are useful in brewing certain beers (Flanders Red/Brown, Lambic/Gueuze, Berliner Weisse, and other beers inspired by those styles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;i&gt;Acetobacter&lt;/i&gt; eat ethanol and produce acetic acid (think vinegar), and other esters. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;i&gt;Enterobacter&lt;/i&gt; eat glucose and produce acetic and lactic acids, and various esters,&#xA;DMS, &lt;i&gt;etc&lt;/i&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;i&gt;Lactobacillus&lt;/i&gt; eat sugar and produce lactic acid and ethyl lactate (the same acid in kosher pickles and yogurt)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;i&gt;Pediococcus&lt;/i&gt; eat glucose and produce lactic acid, Diacetyl, and no CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(See &quot;Wild Brews&quot; from Jeff Sparrow for more comprehensive explanations)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may occasionally find that a beer has been infected by something that you didn't intend.   It may or may not taste good, but it is a signal that you need to step up your cleaning/sanitation regimen and/or replace old equipment (especially anything plastic).   I had an APA that got some sort of infection that gave it a bit of lactic twang, but it worked well with the citrusy hops, and the infection didn't show up until the batch was almost all gone.  I just drank it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-01-27T23:20:07.870" LastActivityDate="2011-01-27T23:20:07.870" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3282" CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:19:25.517" Score="12" ViewCount="22513" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use wine yeast to ferment a beer?   What sort of problems might I encounter that are unique to wine yeast trying to ferment malt sugars?   What sort of flavor differences might I encounter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:18:26.250" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T17:39:50.767" Title="Can I use wine yeast to ferment beer?" Tags="|beer|yeast|techniques|fermentation|wine|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3284" CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:05:29.527" Score="5" ViewCount="1197" Body="&lt;p&gt;my cider has too little 'bite'. It taste a bit sweet, and lacks bite. It has an alcoholic content of 5% by volume which I don't really want to change much. Should I be looking at different strains of yeast, different apples, or take a look at my whole productionline? I have tried different blends of apples, but none so far have generated a good result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="953" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T00:59:57.540" Title="My cider has too little bite, what should I be looking to change" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3280" CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:35:20.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you're pressing your own cider, you're probably forced to use a sweet cider.  To get 'bite' you need sourness or tartness.  A lot of the best hard cider apples are very sour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you could try adding some citric acid, tartaric acid, or some lemon juice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2011-01-27T17:46:03.393" LastActivityDate="2011-01-27T17:46:03.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3279" CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:14:38.553" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use any kind of yeast to ferment a beer, but the problem lies in the results.  Wine/champagne yeast fermentents different sugars.  In particular, wine yeast doesn't ferment maltotriose, one of the main sugars in beer wort.  The result is that you're left with beer that doesn't quite taste like beer.  In addition, you may end up with a higher FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-27T18:14:38.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3280" CreationDate="2011-01-27T19:10:42.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many orchards in the Midwest that grow mostly dessert apples will often blend in a small percentage of crab apple juice.  This will increase the acidity level, tartness and tannins in an uninteresting base cider.  I have also used liquid wine tannin in small amounts to give the store bought cider some character.  You can also use tartaric or malic acid after fermentation to lower the pH and offset the sweetness and brighten the flavor.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="687" LastEditDate="2011-01-27T19:38:38.870" LastActivityDate="2011-01-27T19:38:38.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="206" CreationDate="2011-01-27T21:32:12.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a brush as part of my first-pass cleaning of all bottles coming into rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My usual process is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Clean the bottles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak in OxyClean to remove the labels (which also adds lots of glue gunk to the water)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse in clean water, then scrub inside and out to remove any remaining glue/yeast/etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second quick rinse and shake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Box them for later use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Sanitize the clean bottles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak in sanitizer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain and fill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After finishing a bottle it gets thoroughly rinsed and is ready for Step 2 again.  Any bottles that aren't rinsed quickly go back through step 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-01-27T21:32:12.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="206" CreationDate="2011-01-28T02:36:28.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't use a brush either.  I've made a habit of rinsing out the bottles as soon as I finish drinking so that any residue does dry and harden against the inside of the bottle.  Once they're clean, I rack them upside down in a box or 6-pack holder (I keep these for storing bottles).  When bottling day comes around, I rinse all the bottles out again to remove any dust that may be in the bottle and sanitize.  If there are labels on the bottle, I do a long soak the night before in soap detergent water.  Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T02:36:28.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3288" CreationDate="2011-01-28T02:42:15.293" Score="8" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question came up when I saw a post on &lt;a href=&quot;http://dailymile.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dailymile&lt;/a&gt; about a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dailymile.com/blog/nutrition/even-more-cowbell-brewing-beer-for-the-hat-50k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;50k HAT beer&lt;/a&gt;.  Personally, I find the lower alcohol, lower carbonation (smoother) beers to be very refreshing after a run.  Even cheap commercial beers can be very refreshing after a run (e.g. Coors, PBR) Has anyone dedicated a homebrew recipe specifically towards sports?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T17:01:45.850" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T17:01:45.850" Title="What's a good &quot;running&quot; beer?" Tags="|beer|session-beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3287" CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:22:04.827" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a place in Portland (surprise) called Hopworks:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopworksbeer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hopworksbeer.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was there a few years ago they had a beer for road bikers that was part wheat, part lemonade and I believe a few pinches of salt. I know some people use Wheat beers with Gatorade - but that sounds kind of disgusting to be honest :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to fashion a recipe off the top of my head...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4lbs 2-row (or 4lbs of extract)&#xA;1lb honey malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1oz Northern Brewer&#xA;1oz Tettnanger (40 mins in)&#xA;1oz Goldings (last 5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd use an easy on the palette yeast - maybe an ESB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cut to the second stage, slice up some fruit sangria-style: lemons, limes, pineapple (whatever you like) and pop them into mesh bag. Not sure how many - maybe one lemon, one lime, 3 cuts of fresh pineapple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the fermentation completes you could add water if the fruit's too strong. I would then add some minerals for hydration and some salt. I think the salt will be the thing that makes it - your body craves it when working out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can do lagers I'd say to replace the above recipe with a nice Czech pilsner. MM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="956" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T05:22:04.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3259" CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:27:44.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well actually you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; over-ferment. Given the right conditions your yeast can autolyze - essentially &quot;exploding&quot; and feeding off itself. I've had a batch do that - but it's easily avoided if you move your batch to a second stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to your question, I think you're asking about the clarification of your beer. As the first person answered - let it sit. 3 weeks is a pretty good time to wait and you can pop it into the fridge (if you have room) which will chill it down and help with clearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A trick I like to use is Knox gelatin -- which is pretty cheap and you can get at any store. Boil up a cup or 2 of water, add 2 packs and dumpt into the second stage after 10 days or so. The gelatin gloms on to all kinds of particles and pulls them to the bottom - clearing things right up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="956" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T05:27:44.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3291" CreationDate="2011-01-28T11:16:09.330" Score="11" ViewCount="7682" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the effects of changing the darkness of Crystal Malt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm an extract brewer, and many of the recipes I've tried call for steeping some crystal malt, but I'm not always able to find the °L called for.  Usually I can get something close, but I'm curious what the effects would be of larger changes on the recipe.  i.e. if I replace 25° crystal with 85° crystal (or vice versa), what will change in the final beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="691" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T12:57:11.330" Title="Differences in Crystal Malt darkness" Tags="|malt|crystal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3290" CreationDate="2011-01-28T12:57:11.330" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only the color but the flavor changes.  Think of the increasing Lovibond of crystal malt like the darkening of sugar during caramel making.  At first the color is very light like 15L crystal malt.  The flavor is mostly one dynamic, sweetish.  As the color darkens to say 40L it takes on some mild toffee like notes.  60L is more caramel, 85L is a lot of caramel and some raisin like flavors, 120L is dark dried fruits with an even more intense dark (almost burnt) caramel flavor to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its for these reasons of the complete change in flavor that you can't use a third of 60L and get a 20L type of effect in the beer.  Many people want to apply math like that but it doesn't work.  1lb of 60L doesn't taste like 0.5lb of 120L.  It just tastes more caramel like without the dark fruit like character of the 120L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T12:57:11.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3287" CreationDate="2011-01-28T14:56:40.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe a Berliner Weisse?   Light, refreshingly tart, and not enough alcohol to contribute to dehydration in a significant way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T14:56:40.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3294" CreationDate="2011-01-28T15:39:14.800" Score="4" ViewCount="2462" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you pitch champagne yeast into your wort from the start will it attenuate further than done with an appropriate pitch of standard american ale yeast (say WLP001)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think people use champagne yeast to help a stalled ferment or when the alcohol content is getting too high.  But I don't think that champagne yeast does a particularly good job on thins like maltose or maltotriose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But maybe I am wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2023-02-12T03:59:55.497" Title="Does Champagne yeast really dry out a beer?" Tags="|yeast|attenuation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3293" CreationDate="2011-01-28T16:28:25.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/The-Sunday-Session/The-Sunday-Session-11-23-08-Shea-Comfort&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;According to Shea Comfort&lt;/a&gt;, no, it doesn't.  At least not by itself. It will eat leftover simple sugars that the beer yeast couldn't get to due to a harsh environment, but it will definitely not ferment maltotriose.   There are enzymes that you can add that will break the maltotriose down into something that it will consume, but you need to be particularly careful with the amount that you put in, or you will dry the beer out too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is the Kill Factor of the champagne yeast.  12-24 hours after you pitch the champagne yeast, most of your beer yeast will be dead, due to a protein that the wine yeast produces to help outcompete other strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T16:28:25.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3212" CreationDate="2011-01-28T16:37:39.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I've found so far is certainly not conclusive, but it appears that lambics (probably the most common spontaneously fermented beer) are innoculated in vats with a very large surface area of the wort exposed to air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's conjecture, but to me this implies that having a very large unrestricted exposure to fresh air (which is at least mildly circulated) is a best-practice, if not absolutely necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T16:37:39.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3279" CreationDate="2011-01-28T16:59:36.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/The-Sunday-Session/The-Sunday-Session-11-23-08-Shea-Comfort&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Apparently, yes&lt;/a&gt;.   (I've been reading and listening to various things over the last couple of days)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To elaborate on Denny's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wine yeasts will not consume maltotriose, so steps must be taken to minimize or break down that particular sugar.  You could do that enzymatically, by increasing the ratio of simple to more complex sugars, by splitting your batch and then blending once all fermentation is finished, or by doing a multi-strain pitch.  Or you could just live with a sweeter end result.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many Wine yeast strains have a Kill Factor.   They produce a protein that kills other yeast and bacteria that are in the same must/wort with them.   Be sure to check on that if you are doing a multi strain pitch, or planning to bottle condition with a beer yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wine yeasts will produce different esters, and you will want to keep that in mind.  Pick one that will produce flavors that will work well with the beer that you are brewing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T16:59:36.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5557" CreationDate="2011-01-28T18:33:51.857" Score="7" ViewCount="775" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the steps involved in recapping a bottle of beer for any reason (e.g. if too much priming sugar is added, if a cap appears to be defective or failing, etc)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T17:59:06.777" Title="What are the steps in recapping overcarbonated beer?" Tags="|beer|techniques|bottling|capping|recapping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3299" CreationDate="2011-01-28T19:45:50.693" Score="6" ViewCount="1273" Body="&lt;p&gt;After secondary fermentation, when I rack, add the stabilizers, and degas, I've been told it's best to top-off with additional wine (commercial or left-over from an old batch) to minimize the surface area exposed to air (basically topping up to the neck of the carboy). What considerations do I need to keep in mind? Will any commercial white/red work for a batch of white/red? For a concrete example, I'm doing a Sauvignon Blanc right now, and don't have any left-over white. Should I just go buy the cheapest Sauvignon Blanc I can find to top-off with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T15:39:32.163" Title="What kind of wine should I use to top off my wine during clarification?" Tags="|wine|clarification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3298" CreationDate="2011-01-28T22:12:20.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's true, you want to keep your carboys topped up.  Oxygen is the enemy of wine, even moreso for white wines.  Ideally you want to top up with more of your own wine, either from last year's vintage of the same wine or, better yet, from the extra you've been making all along just for topping up.  But if you don't have any topping-up wine of your own, then you can absolutely use store-bought wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you should top it up with Sauvignon Blanc.  You should not use the cheapest you can find, unless you want to lower the quality of your wine.  You shouldn't use the most expensive you can find, either, because it could have a significant impact on your wine if the bottle you buy is different than your wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should do is seek out a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc with attributes similar to yours - similar color, similar body, similar nose, similar taste, similar acidity, similar alcohol level.  What you are looking for is a topping-up wine that will blend into your wine such that you can't tell that you blended it into your wine.  Wine blending to achieve the taste you want is an interesting topic, but topping-up isn't the time to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T22:12:20.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3212" CreationDate="2011-01-28T23:46:54.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a Lambic once from a recipe that called for the yeast out of a bottle of Chimay.  I saved the last couple of inches of beer in the bottle and built the yeast up to pitching volume through a series of increasingly larger starters over the course of about a week.  It worked pretty good, and the beer turned out great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T23:46:54.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3297" CreationDate="2011-01-29T11:57:29.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a cap is defective and you notice it soon enough then you can just remove and replace.  If its been  awhile then your priming sugar is probably spent and that bottle is a loss IMO.  Its not worth the effort of trying to add more sugar again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you added too much priming sugar, it sort of depends on how much extra.&#xA;Some people have luck with prying off one edge to release the excess pressure, then recrimping in down with the capper.  I am not sure you get a good seal in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me I just tend to chalk these issues up as a loss and correct it next time/batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-29T11:57:29.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3311" CreationDate="2011-01-30T04:21:48.387" Score="2" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Australia &amp;amp; (as a new brewer) read a lot of recipes online, many of which reference products I can't buy or haven't yet found locally.  I'd like to start ordering ingredients from various online, international sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone here order ingredients internationally / online? Have you ever had any troubles?  e.g. customs seizing plant products or the freshness of ingredients after a week of travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T05:21:13.400" Title="Are there any problems associated with ordering ingredients online (internationally)?" Tags="|shopping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3303" CreationDate="2011-01-30T08:57:22.883" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been ordering ingredients online for years (all in the US, South Dakota &amp;lt;- Minnisota). I've never had any problems with the yeast, although I could see having problems in Australia. I don't think you should have any issues with customs since there isn't any alcohol being shipped. I order from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Midwest Supplies&lt;/a&gt; and no problems yet (although, not international)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="961" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T08:57:22.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3303" CreationDate="2011-01-30T15:28:52.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main issue would be time in transit.  Ordering internationally will likely involve the package taking a trip through customs; the amount of delay this adds can vary greatly, but weeks aren't out of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this reason some items like liquid yeast may not arrive in a viable condition.  Ordering relatively &quot;stable&quot; ingredients should be fine if they take longer to arrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned plants being seized, which is also a valid concern.  Depening on what you're ordering, and who inspects it, you might have some items confiscated &quot;your hops looked like ganja&quot;, or &quot;these spices are invasive&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T15:28:52.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3327" CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:04:17.040" Score="9" ViewCount="7912" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just put 5 pounds of blackberries in secondary fermenter with 5 of the 10 gallons of a Belgian wit.  I was going to bottle it all one week from now, assuming fermentation has died down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any drawbacks to leaving the fruit in for a week?  What about 2 weeks?  I brewed again this weekend and might just wait and bottle it all together. Should I rack the beer off e blackberries at some point in the meantime?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/mlusby/5483220358/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;photo 3.JPG by mlusby, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5051/5483220358_5591951bc8.jpg&quot; width=&quot;333&quot; height=&quot;500&quot; alt=&quot;photo 3.JPG&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't show the color as well as I'd like.  While you're pouring it, it's almost pink-ish, which is when it looks its most unnatural.  In the glass it looks closer to a very reddish brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.783" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T20:15:54.313" Title="Can fruit be left in secondary too long?" Tags="|fruit|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3317" CreationDate="2011-01-31T02:25:26.303" Score="3" ViewCount="2616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a dubbel and pitched a 1000ml yeast starter of Wyeast 1214 at 68F.  It's fermenting in a room now with an ambient temp of 72F.  Over the course of 30 hrs, temp has increased to 78-79F according to a stick-on therm.  Should I move to the basement with an ambient between 65-68? How about inside of Rubbermaid container with icewater? Or do I just leave it for now and see how it is in the morning (12 hrs for now)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if it changes anything, but the OG was 1051 instead of an expected 1065.  My guess is that I over compensated for evaporation.  I'll be sure to mark 5g on this new 6g carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="921" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T18:24:02.733" Title="Should I move primary to lower temp?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3307" CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:13:27.113" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd find some way to hold it steady the 78 mark until at least a couple of days after it's finished fermenting.   The danger is that if you cool it too quickly, the yeast will drop out of suspension and leave your beer underattenuated and possibly full of fermentation by-products that they would have come back and consumed later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add sugar water to bring the gravity up some.  This will also help you get the attenuation you need in a Dubbel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T03:13:27.113" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3306" CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:25:21.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left the blueberries in my melomel for a month.   Though it was at around 10% alcohol when I put them in there, but you do want them in long enough to extract as much of the flavors as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T03:25:21.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3303" CreationDate="2011-01-31T05:21:13.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finding the right seller who takes the time and care to package the ingredients will make the biggest difference. Even stable ingredients can be ruined by exposure to the elements and extreme conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops may be tricky if they are not packaged correctly, and even if they are packaged correctly, without seeing the original storage, the hops may have been damaged prior to shipping. If sales volume is low, you may also get hops that have been on the shelf for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For grains, I imagine you can find what you need locally and malt it yourself. This is probably the most stable form you can transport it in. Malt extracts seem stable to me, but my background isn't science, so I don't have any proof of how resilient it is to shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T05:21:13.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3321" CreationDate="2011-01-31T13:54:59.553" Score="6" ViewCount="3358" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you use different types of water for different types of beer? I know the type of water can change your flavors slightly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I get wildly different outcomes if I use say, distilled water over tap or regular filtered water? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use one type of water in the wort then a different type after will that mess things up terribly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/321/what-effects-will-the-type-of-water-have-on-beer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question but I have a slightly different question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="938" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T19:42:56.190" Title="What type of water is best to use for different situations" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3312" CreationDate="2011-01-31T15:09:00.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, if the water you're using tastes good then it will produce good beer.  Style-wise I don't think that it makes much difference, and by using the same water you're eliminating one variable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main concerns you have with water are:&#xA; - Mineral content&#xA; - Chemical content&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast require some minerals to reproduce and be healthy; since distilled water removes all minerals then you would need to add a nutrient supplement if you're using distilled water.  On the inverse, well water may be high in minerals you don't want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using city water then the added chemicals may be of concern; using a carbon filter will remove many of these and is highly advisable if your water has a strong chemical odor or flavor, or isn't clear (fill your bathtub with clear water; if the water is tinted then it's likely chemicals).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall though, you should choose a baseline water source and stick with it.  If you advance to the point of wanting to tweak your water, then you're entering into the organic chemistry realm and getting pretty far up the ladder in terms of advanced brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T15:09:00.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3307" CreationDate="2011-01-31T15:56:41.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your ambient temperature isn't too high (close) but the heat created by the fermentation itself has gotten your temperature up to unacceptable levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to move it to the basement. There is no need to cool it quickly, just put it down there, it will cool off fine and gradually on it's own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad part is that at that fermentation temperature, the yeast will have produced some...lets say interesting flavors.  Cloves, banana, fruitiness, can all come from fermentation at that temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, it's not the end of the world and it's not like it ruined your beer. It may just be a bit different than what was expected.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T15:56:41.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3316" CreationDate="2011-01-31T17:55:53.627" Score="5" ViewCount="2619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed an oatmeal stout &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewershub.com/recipes/toms-oatmeal-stout-2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;see recipe details here&lt;/a&gt; and I have a question about missing Orignal and/or Final gravities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OG was supposed to be 1.061 and the FG 1.016.  I brewed and got an OG or 1.063 and I racked to my carboy last night and the specific gravity was 1.022.  I'm concerned that the gravity wont drop any more while in the carboy, will it?  Is there anything I can do to get it to further come down to the expected range (1.016 -1.018 - corrected for my overage on the OG)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be adding a yeast nutrient or energizer to the carboy in hopes of getting the yeast going again?  If so what do you recommend?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I consider re-pitching with more yeast, my fear here is that I only want it to drop a tiny bit as I'm not too far off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I just leave it alone and let it be for 2-3 weeks in the carboy and not overthink it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewershub.com/batches/tomcocca-toms-oatmeal-stout-2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here are some notes&lt;/a&gt; about the brewing and transfer of the batch on my notebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;~ Tom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T19:36:17.103" Title="Brewed an Oatmeal Stout and the gravity did not drop as much as predicted, should I re-pitch or add yeast nutrients/energizer?" Tags="|yeast|original-gravity|specific-gravity|final-gravity|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3315" CreationDate="2011-01-31T18:18:21.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not mess around with it.  Looking at the recipe I don't think you would expect to much more of a gravity change.  Normally I advocate leaving any beer in primary for 14 days.  And then a beer with this starting gravity would defenitaly be fine for 14 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your recipe has a fair amount of darker specialty grains in it and that will contribute to the 1.022 gravity too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just leave it alone for another 2 weeks and I think you are going to be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T18:18:21.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3307" CreationDate="2011-01-31T18:24:02.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Move it to the cooler temp of a cool closet or the basement.  The bulk of the ferment may even be done by now depending on how active the yeast really were.  Things move pretty quickly at high temps.  The best bet is to let it naturally start to cool down in a cooler environment and the let it rest on that cake for 2 weeks.  If there is any chance of the yeast cleaning up some of the by products of a hot ferment you want to take advantage of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say the beer may come out fine.  Only time will tell.  Next time you brew under these conditions you should put the fermentor in a tub of water.  That will help buffer the temp change and keep things closer to the ambiant temp of the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T18:24:02.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3312" CreationDate="2011-01-31T18:36:56.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water chemistry can play a pretty big role in the quality of one style over another.  In general, the most ideal water for a pilsner is not going to make a great Stout, and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US, most of our water nationwide is pretty middle of the road and good for any style of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, distilled water should only be used only after you have analysed the water you have and you find that one or more minerals/ions is grossly out of wack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water chemistry and brewing is some pretty high powered stuff, and often confusing to the none chemist-type folks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is to start reading up on water chemistry, as its true influences are sort of out of the scope of a definative answer here on this type of posting format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Brew Strong&quot; of The Brewing Network.  Did a &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/497&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;4 part series on water chemistry&lt;/a&gt;, how it effects brewing and how to approach it for recipe formulation.  Check that out as the best definative guide right now on water chem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T18:36:56.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3315" CreationDate="2011-01-31T18:55:33.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different factors that can ultimately affect the final gravity.  They include yeast health, yeast pitching rate, fermentation temperature, amount of oxygen present at pitching, mash temperature, amount of specialty grains, and fluctuations in fermentation temperature.  It is obviously important to monitor all these aspects of the fermentation process and over time and repeated brewing of a recipe you can better predict the finishing gravity.  Don't focus so much on the actual number but see how it tastes to determine if the beer is good or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case I would leave it alone and take detailed notes on fermentation so you can adjust your process next time if the beer is under attenuated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T18:55:33.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3315" CreationDate="2011-01-31T19:36:17.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the &quot;leave it alone&quot; advice.  Between the extract and the dark grains, you had a fair amount of unfermentables in there which is likely what's responsible.  BTW, I see you pitched at 75F.  Your beer will probably turn out much better of you'd get the temp down another 10F before pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T19:36:17.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3312" CreationDate="2011-01-31T19:42:56.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, distilled water is great for extract brewing since the extract has all the minerals in it from when it's made.  In general, you want to have 50-100 ppm of Ca available for the yeast.  It also aids the clarity of the beer.  For hoppy beers, you can use CaSO4 for this.  You can add it to the mash if you need to lower the mash pH, or just add it to the kettle if all you want to do is accentuate the hops.  Dark grains pull the pH down, so you generally need to raise it.  Carbonates will do that (the reason Dublin became home to Guinness is because of the carbonate water there).  Brewers generally use CaCO3 in the mash in this situation.  No matter what kind of beer you're brewing, if your water is chlorinated it pays to remove it.  If it's chlorine, you can preboil the water or let it sit uncovered overnight.  If your water co. uses chloramines, you can use 1/2 campden tab in the water to remove the chloramine almost instantly.  Campden also works to remove chlorine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T19:42:56.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3279" CreationDate="2011-01-31T21:19:45.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This beer is made with champagne yeast, and it's really, really tasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/119/53766&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Otter Creek Quercus Vitis Humulus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="113" LastEditDate="2014-03-07T15:07:25.797" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T15:07:25.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3323" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3325" CreationDate="2011-01-31T21:26:53.207" Score="7" ViewCount="2092" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might seem like a really dumb question but what exactly is meant by the term &quot;racking&quot; and how did it come about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When someone says, &quot;I just racked my beer&quot;, what does that mean? Can it have different meanings? I've heard it used (maybe incorrectly) to when you start the fermentation process and when you start the bottling process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="938" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T02:46:06.483" Title="Racking question" Tags="|racking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2286" CreationDate="2011-01-31T21:41:41.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a long &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.target.com/Sterilite-41-qt-Under-bed-Storage-Bin/dp/B003UHZI3O/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;plastic bin&lt;/a&gt; that I use for sanitizing. It is long enough to lay all of my racking cane's, auto siphons, hoses, anything can lay flat lengthwise in the bin to soak, then you just rinse with cold water.  I guess you could have another bin the same size filled with clean cold water to rinse the stuff.  I usually just do that in the sink though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.target.com/Sterilite-30-gal-Tote/dp/B003UI3G1E/ref=sc_qi_detaillink&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;deeper bin&lt;/a&gt; that use to sanitize bottles, carboys, pales, just fill it up and lay then in sideways to soak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These also work wonders to get labels off of beer bottles.  Fill it with hot water and sanitizer and submerge all bottles, then put the lid on and in a few days all the label fall off an just float to the top.  Incredibly easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastEditorUserId="302" LastEditDate="2011-01-31T22:10:18.597" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T22:10:18.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3323" CreationDate="2011-01-31T21:58:28.477" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;To rack your beer simply means to siphon it from one vessel to another, such as from a primary fermenter to a secondary, or from a fermenter to your bottling bucket.  Racking refers to transferring the whole of the beer or wine from one vessel to another, leaving behind sediment.  Homebrewers usually only do it once or twice, whereas winemakers will rack several times, up to six or so, to help clarify the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why it's called &quot;racking,&quot; I don't know.  I never looked into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T21:58:28.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="608" CreationDate="2011-01-31T22:10:25.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I tried to brew kvass. The results were not good. The product tasted like yeast. Here was my method: &#xA;1. I dried one pound rye bread in oven in a 200 degree oven. The rye bread came from a local bakery that I knew to not use preservatives. &#xA;2. I boiled about a gallon of water for at least 15 minutes to remove any biologicals and whatever chlorine that might have been present. &#xA;3. Poured the water over the bread and let the mixture sit covered for about 10 hours. &#xA;4. Filtered out the bread and added one cup of white sugar and one packet of bread yeast. &#xA;5. I let this mixture sit for about 10 hours covered in a dark closet. &#xA;6. I filtered again added about 2 tablespoons of raisins and let this mixture sit for five days in a dark closet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The product was milky gold and fairly sweet. There was plenty of sediment, but I don't believe that all the yeast settled out. Anyway, that was my experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user966" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T22:10:25.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3306" CreationDate="2011-01-31T22:15:33.907" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's possible to leave the fruit in there for too long, but I don't think a couple of weeks or even a month will hurt.  As a homebrewer and home winemaker, I have two ways to look at this issue...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, when you ferment fruit you are making wine.  When you add fruit to your secondary, one could argue that you're adding a bit of wine to your beer, because the beer yeast will ferment the fruit.  In that sense, a beer with real fruit added to the secondary is a beer/wine blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, from the beer perspective, I've seen plenty of fruit lambic recipes that say to add the fruit to the secondary and leave it there for half a year or longer.  I've never tried this, but lots of people do it.  Lambic may be a bad example, though, because the sourness might mask any possible detriments caused by leaving the fruit in too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the winemaking perspective, when you make red wine you ferment a big vat of crushed fruit (called must).  When it's at or very near to it's terminal gravity (at or below 1.000), you press the must to free the wine from the solids.  &lt;em&gt;Most&lt;/em&gt; of the solids remain in the press to be discarded (this is called pomace).  However, a good bit of smaller-particle gunk makes it through pressing and into whatever vessel you collect your wine in.  After a day or two, this gunk precipitates out and settles on the bottom, along with a good deal of dead yeast.  This layer of sediment is called the gross lees.  It's mostly grape pulp.  If you do not rack your wine off the gross lees after a few days, you could end up with a serious sulphur problem in your wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differences I can see between what winemakers do and what brewers do when adding fruit to a secondary are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fruit is added to the secondary whole and unfermented, whereas gross lees are already fermented.  Red wine usually takes about a week to ferment, give or take a week.  Consider your racking of beer onto the fruit to be akin to the start of wine fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you rack onto the fruit in the secondary, you're pretty much only getting active, viable yeast that hasn't yet gone dormant, whereas the gross less in wine contain a bunch of dead &amp;amp; dormant yeast.  The autolysis risk is lower when doing what brewers do versus what winemakers do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beer yeast is less likely to give off H2S if left in contact with spent fruit and dead or dormant comrades, while wine yeast is more finicky about this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I think if you leave your beer on the fruit for many months, you run the risk of some yucky odors &amp;amp; flavors in your beer, but a few weeks or even a month or two won't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T22:15:33.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3329" CreationDate="2011-02-01T02:27:12.717" Score="14" ViewCount="1169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been told that for extract brewing it's best to simply calculate the original gravity instead of measuring it.  Is this correct?  What are the pros/cons either way?  What about with extract+grains or partial mashes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="691" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T02:34:44.887" Title="Original Gravity: Calculate or measure" Tags="|extract|original-gravity|partial-mash|extract-plus-grains|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3328" CreationDate="2011-02-01T02:34:44.887" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you boil the entire volume of your extract batches, go ahead and measure it.  But most extract brewers do a partial boil and add top up water afterward.  In that case, it's REALLY REALLY REALLY hard to get the extract and water mixed thoroughly enough to get an accurate reading.  The extract is heavier due to the sugar in it and sinks to the bottom of the fermenter.  I speak from experience...this was the basis of the first question I ever posted to the internet nearly 14 years ago.  In these cases, it's more accurate to calculate the OG based on the ingredients and the final volume of the beer.  For instance, you can assume that liquid extract contributes about 36 ppg (points/pound/gal.) and dry extract about 45.  So 5 lb. of dry extract in 5 gal. would give you a gravity of 1.045.  For steeping grains you can assume about 35-50% efficiency and add that in, and for partial mashes about 65-75% efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T02:34:44.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-01T06:17:40.810" Score="6" ViewCount="1834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a couple extract (kits) batches under my belt and now want to venture out into the unknown and create my own recipe. The following is what I've come up with after doing a bit of research. I've been reading a lot about adding late hops (20 minutes) to get a stronger hop flavor and aroma without the strong bitterness and wanted to try it for this recipe. I am also set on simcoe and amarillo cause I love the combination. Any suggestions are much appreciated. As I said, I really have no idea what the hell I'm doing or what it's gonna taste like so please help me out. Just plugging stuff into the software...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rough IPA Recipe #1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expected OG: 1.064 SG&#xA;Expected FG: 1.011 SG&#xA;Expected ABV: 7.1 %&#xA;Expected ABW: 5.5 %&#xA;Expected IBU (using Tinseth): 50.9 IBU&#xA;Expected Color (using Morey): 9.9 SRM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil Duration: 60.0 mins&#xA;Fermentation Temperature: 65 F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US Caramel 60L Malt 1lb&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Canadian Honey Malt (Gambrinus) 4.00 oz&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extract - Light Dried Malt Extract 6lb&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sugar - Corn Sugar/Dextrose (Dry) 1lb&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US Simcoe 13.0 % 1.00 oz 26.5 Loose Pellet Hops All Of Boil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US Amarillo 5.0 % 0.50 oz 3.1 Loose Pellet Hops 20 Min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US Simcoe 13.0 % 0.50 oz 8.0 Loose Pellet Hops 20 Min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US Amarillo 5.0 % 1.00 oz 3.7 Loose Pellet Hops 10 Min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US Simcoe 13.0 % 1.00 oz 9.6 Loose Pellet Hops 10 Min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US Amarillo 5.0 % 0.50 oz 0.0 Loose Pellet Hops At turn off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US Simcoe 13.0 % 0.50 oz 0.0 Loose Pellet Hops At turn off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US Amarillo 5.0 % 0.50 oz 0.0 Loose Pellet Hops Dry-Hopped&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US Simcoe 13.0 % 0.50 oz 0.0 Loose Pellet Hops Dry-Hopped&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast US-05&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user969" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:40:04.390" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:40:04.390" Title="Need help with my 1st IPA recipe" Tags="|extract|troubleshooting|ipa|recipe|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3330" CreationDate="2011-02-01T13:32:00.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks alright to me.   I think I might increase the bittering so that you have something closer to a 1:1 bittering unit to gravity unit ratio, but it sounds like less bitter is your goal, so that's a matter of taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wouldn't use that much simcoe, but that's another matter of personal preference (it smells like cat pee to me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I would double the dry hop amounts, though.   Looks like a good beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T13:32:00.547" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3330" CreationDate="2011-02-01T14:33:13.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks good. I'd probably drop the sugar, and just add some extra DME instead. Also I probably wouldn't dry-hop with simcoe (cat pee etc.), but that's up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T14:33:13.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2011-02-01T17:24:39.187" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a dump of all my &quot;Beer &amp;amp; Homebrewing&quot; subscriptions from Google Reader.  If yours is on here and you don't want to be, go ahead and edit it out.  If you're is on here and you want to point out that it's yours, go ahead and denote it as such.  Most of these are about homebrewing, but a few are about beer in general.  If you want to edit those out, feel free.  If you want to add more links, I suggest using this answer as a wiki list of all known blogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerblog.genx40.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Good Beer Blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://atomicdonkeybrewing.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Atomic Donkey Brewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beardedbrewing.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bearded Brewing Blog&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwhiskeybros.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beer &amp;amp; Whiskey Brothers Blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersensoryscience.wordpress.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beer Sensory Science&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerthis.blogspot.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BEER THIS!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BeerSmith Home Brewing Beer Blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://billybrew.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BillyBrew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/blogs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BYO - Blog entries&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brew Dudes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewgeeks.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BrewGeeks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sciencebrewer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brew Science&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brokenglassbrewing.blogspot.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Broken Glass Brewery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brushvalleybrewer.wordpress.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brush Valley Brewer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fairwater-brewery.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fairwater Brewery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fluke-brewing.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fluke Brewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.growinghopsyourself.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Growing Hops Yourself&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Homebrew Finds&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewjunkie.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Homebrew Junkie&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/community/blog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Homebrewers Association&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewblog.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Home Brew Blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewmanual.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Home Brew Manual&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ianwhitney.com/hopwise/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hopwise Brewery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://jaysbrewingblog.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jay's Brewing Blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://kissbrew.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KISS Brew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mashspargeboil.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mash.Sparge.Boil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://midnighthourbrewery.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Midnight Hour Homebrew-blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://northernbrewer.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Northern Brewer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ryanpa.blogspot.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ryan_PA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://shegoguebrew.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shegogue Brew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://startingabrewery.wordpress.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Starting a Brewery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tedbrews.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ted's Homebrew Journal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thehappyimbibe.disqus.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Happy Imbibe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Mad Fermentationist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notsoprobeer.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Not So Professional Beer Blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://perfectpint.blogspot.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Perfect Pint&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thescrewybrewer.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Screwy Brewer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://trappistpunks.com/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trappist Punks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://trashhomebrewers.org/frontpage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TRASH: Three Rivers Alliance of Serious Homebrewers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wadeshomebrew.blogspot.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wade's Homebrew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brew.seifts.us&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Watch Zach Brew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whenyeastattack.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;When Yeast Attack&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/430/jacksmith&quot;&gt;JackSmith&lt;/a&gt;'s blog)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yeastbound.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yeastbound &amp;amp; Down&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://zythophile.wordpress.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Zythophile&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This list includes all of the blogs linked to in all the other answers as of 13:22 EST on Feb. 01, 2011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T01:51:22.683" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-01T17:24:39.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2286" CreationDate="2011-02-01T17:43:13.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to your local hardware store and buy a wallpapering tray to use as a sanitizing bucket for these long tools.  They're normally about 30&quot; long, which is long enough to hold all my awkward tools like tubing, racking cane, autosyphon, thief, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000DZFBR4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon.com - Standard Weight Wallpaper Tray&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2011-02-01T18:19:38.657" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T18:19:38.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4125" CreationDate="2011-02-01T23:48:42.107" Score="3" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for red wine kits that will mature quickly (6-18 months, as opposed to 2-5 years). I like big, complex reds, but I'd like some wine to drink while I'm waiting for them to mature. I prefer the &quot;high-quality&quot; kits that come with 4 gallons or more of juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2011-04-27T22:07:38.837" Title="What are some red wines that mature quickly and are available in kits?" Tags="|wine|kits|maturation|red-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3330" CreationDate="2011-02-02T00:37:40.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So are you guys saying that simcoe is a good hop to use as long as it's not used for dry hopping? I feel like everywhere I read someone is praising simcoe.  Simcoe, simcoe, simcoe...  Is using it at flameout still gonna give me &quot;cat piss&quot; qualities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user973" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T00:37:40.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3338" CreationDate="2011-02-02T00:51:28.257" Score="5" ViewCount="2521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to brew a clone recipe of Dogfish Head's 60 minute IPA and I was wondering if I should do some water treatment on it. I've heard of people adding gypsum to their water to achieve a dryer flavor and I think I read something about it helping hop utilization. I haven't done any water treatment before, and I usually just use straight tapwater. Would it be a good idea to do some water treatment for this beer? (I'm in Philadelphia if that helps for the water profile) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schuylkill river-Queen Lane plant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ca-43 ppm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mg-13 ppm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sodium-35 ppm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chloride-92 ppm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sulfate-43.7 ppm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hardness-157&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alk-CaCo3-65&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;average Ph-7.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastEditorUserId="130" LastEditDate="2011-02-02T02:34:34.883" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T17:17:56.343" Title="IPA Water Treatment" Tags="|water|ipa|clone-recipe|gypsum|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3337" CreationDate="2011-02-02T13:47:05.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, that average pH is low compared to my water just over here in the Pittsburgh suburbs.  Mine is 8.3.  Your water is pretty neutral, mine is alkaline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, here's my suggestion:  Don't adjust your water this time.  Water adjustment is a pretty technical topic and if you want to start doing it, be prepared to experiment.  I recently switched to all grain and was quite uptight about water adjustment after reading How to Brew.  It had me thinking if I wanted to brew anything other than a copper-to-amber beer, I would have to adjust my water.  Contrarily, most of the advice I got here and on other forums pretty much said to go without it until you have everything else dialed in.  Furthermore, Palmer has more recently (on Brew Strong) said something like, &quot;The malt wants to become beer.  You can do things to help it along, but as long as you're close with your water, temperature, etc, it's going to come out pretty good.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you, I would brew the recipe without adjusting the water, then brew it again with water adjustments.  As for how to adjust the water, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these nomographs&lt;/a&gt; should get you started.  But they're just a start.  Look into books on brewing water chemistry.  I don't own any, but if anyone does, please drop a comment on this answer with titles &amp;amp; links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T13:47:05.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3340" CreationDate="2011-02-02T13:58:38.810" Score="4" ViewCount="5803" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is already a &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/861/temperature-control-for-fermentation&quot;&gt;general question about ways to control fermentation temperature&lt;/a&gt;.  This question, however, is more specific - it pertains to active fermentation temperature control using refrigeration.  And I'm making it a community wiki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, I want to know which type of cooling system I should choose, and why.  So I will list the various options and if you have used any of them, I ask that you please edit the answer with the pros and cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T23:31:17.613" Title="Which type of cooling system makes the best fermentation chamber?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3339" CreationDate="2011-02-02T14:06:39.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are quite a few choices in refrigeration for building a fermentation chamber.  What are the pros and cons of each option?  Assume that whichever is chosen, it will be controlled by an after-market temperature controller, allowing for precise adjustment of fermentation temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Upright Refrigerator - Freezer on Top&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very easy to find on &lt;a href=&quot;http://craigslist.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CL&lt;/a&gt; and the like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Upright Refrigerator - Freezer on Bottom&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Being fairly new to the market, these types of fridges are generally more expensive than freezer on top versions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Requires lifting up and in of carboy of beer.  Becomes a bigger challenge with greater than 5 gallon fermentors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Upright Refrigerator - Side-By-Side&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dividing wall can be removed, allowing for the creation of a large chamber than can hold multiple fermenters if you build a sturdy shelf mid-way up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Upright Refrigerator - French Door&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Upright Refrigerator - Freezerless&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Difficult to find used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Upright Freezer&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very easy to find on &lt;a href=&quot;http://craigslist.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CL&lt;/a&gt; and the like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not meant for temps above freezing, so they don't have active humidity control.  Mildew can be a problem if steps aren't taken to dehumidify.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some have the refrigerant lines built into or under the shelves.  If so, moving them to make room for your fermenters can be difficult without kinking the lines (and thus ruining the unit).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Chest Freezer&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very easy to find on &lt;a href=&quot;http://craigslist.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CL&lt;/a&gt; and the like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not meant for temps above freezing, so they don't have active humidity control.  Mildew can be a problem if steps aren't taken to dehumidify.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Mini (Dormatory) Fridge&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to find for cheap or free&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can only hold one carboy, many can't even hold that&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In many, the freezer shelf contains the refrigerant lines.  Moving this out of the way can be difficult or impossible without kinking the lines and thus ruining the unit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;DIY Fermentation Chamber&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine a wooden frame, well insulated with extruded polystyrene, cooled by a mini-fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be build to any dimensions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moderate DIY skills required&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-02-03T23:31:17.613" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T23:31:17.613" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-02T14:06:39.907" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2039" CreationDate="2011-02-02T14:34:48.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just written up my first brew log &amp;amp; asked myself the same question.  I agree with brewchez - it depends what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started with brewchez's log, but as I'm going to be using simple extract-based recipes while I figure this out, it was too complex.  I started with Palmer's example in &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/section1/chapter2-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1.2.3 Record Keeping&lt;/a&gt; and as I started filling it out, found I wanted to record a lot more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm new at this, my goal is to record as much data as possible, so I can best learn what factors influence the result &amp;amp; how.  Here's what I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Type/Name:&#xA;Volume:&#xA;Date (fermentation):&#xA;Date (bottling): &#xA;Date (taste):&#xA;&#xA;Yeast: (form, type, pitched?)&#xA;&#xA;Temperature notes: (primary range, secondary range)&#xA;&#xA;Malts: (qty, type for each)&#xA;&#xA;Original Gravity: x.xxx (measured/calculated)&#xA;Final Gravity:&#xA;ABV:&#xA;&#xA;Hops:&#xA;#. qty, time, type, %AA&#xA;&#xA;IBU:&#xA;&#xA;Sugars: (added during primary, priming) &#xA;&#xA;Yield &amp;amp; vessel: (glass/plastic bottles, kegged)&#xA;&#xA;Notes:&#xA;&#xA;Picture:&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal favourite thing here is the picture.  I look forward to having a photo of every beer I've ever brewed.  Make sure you use a white background (I use a dinner plate) so the colour is accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use &lt;a href=&quot;http://evernote.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Evernote&lt;/a&gt; to store my notes.  It's searchable, like Google Calendar and stores pictures too.  You could just as easily use OneNote, Google Calendar, GMail, DropBox etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T14:34:48.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3339" CreationDate="2011-02-02T15:11:28.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yeastbound.com/brewhouse-equipment/36dd-mother-of-fermentation-chiller/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mother of Fermentation Chamber&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.olderascal.com/brewing/fermentationchiller/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Son of Fermentation Chiller&lt;/a&gt;, are both DIY but use containers of ice &amp;amp; a fan instead of a fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=72229&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;use thermoelectric cooling (TEC)&lt;/a&gt; instead of ice. A little trickier to set up, but easier than hauling around bottles full of ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, a fermentation chamber might need to both heat and cool, depending on your climate. If I brew a big beer in the winter, I need to cool it during the first day of active fermentation but after that I need to keep it warm. For that, you might want a &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/16664/102282/Ranco_Digital_Two-Stage_Temperature_Controller_-_Wired&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;two-stage temp controller&lt;/a&gt;, with one plug powering your cooling system and one powering your &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/marketing-categories/landing2/electric-fermentation-heater.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;heater&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T15:11:28.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2039" CreationDate="2011-02-02T15:27:31.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am writing a web app along with a colleague that is dedicated to just this topic.  It is meant to be a cross between Hopeville, BeerSmith and a Log sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewershub.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brewershub.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have recipe sharing/creation, a recipe builder, batches with a notebook.  And we are completely open to ideas. Its also totally free.  We really want to turn this into a community site dedicated to homebrewers.  Please check it out and don't hesitate to give feedback.  We recently launched and are looking for users to really give us some good feeback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, we are in the processes of making some upgrades to our recipe builder right now that should be coming in a matter of weeks, mostly dedicated to partial mash and all grain brewing that should be really exciting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T15:27:31.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3337" CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:17:56.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Ca is a bit on the low side, as is your SO4 for a hoppy beer.  Your mash pH will likely be OK, so I'd add a tsp. of gypsum to the boil for yeast nutrients and to accentuate the hops.  Then, before you brew again, check out the water info on howtobrew.com and braukaiser.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T17:17:56.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-02T18:36:07.603" Score="12" ViewCount="2941" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both me and my gf noticed that my home brews (even just 1 or 2 a night) cause a fairly noticeable headache in the morning compared to commercial brews.  God forbid you get drunk on it, the next morning is hell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some research here and there are claims that acetylaldehydes is the cause of it.  From what I've read a very violent boil (without lid) and secondary fermentation should remove a lot of it.  I don't typically second ferment and have troubles getting a good boil without lid on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to put more yeast and/or sugar in for the secondary fermentation?  Or just transfer it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on upgrading my stove to get a better boil.  Any other things I can do to minimize acetylaldehydes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brewing#Secondary_fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brewing#Secondary_fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="975" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:32:48.453" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:32:48.453" Title="Home brew, acetylaldehydes and hangovers" Tags="|fermentation|boil|secondary|nutrition|hangover|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3345" CreationDate="2011-02-02T18:55:47.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three variables that are important to controlling the production of acetaldehyde:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast Pitching Rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wort Aeration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermentation Temperature &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, make sure you're pitching the proper amount of yeast.  Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr. Malty's Pitching Rate Calculator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, make sure you're aerating your wort well.  There are many ways to do this, from shaking/splashing your fermenter before pitching, to setting up your siphon to spray the wort into the fermenter, to whisking your cooled wort, to pumping in air or oxygen with an air stone.  Whichever way you do it, be sure your wort is well-aerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, control your fermentation temperature.  Keep it within the range the yeast packet specifies.  If it goes too high or swings too wildly, your beer's flavor (and potentially your morning after) will suffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you're not concerned so much about appearance, try letting a bit of the sediment from the bottle make it into your glass.  The yeast actually help to inhibit hangover effects.  It has something to do with all the potassium and/or B vitamins in the cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T18:55:47.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3359" CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:41:52.187" Score="9" ViewCount="1582" Body="&lt;p&gt;This year my goal is to improve the clarity of my bottle conditioned beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to do this by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the end of the fermentation, adding finings (Isinglass) to the brew barrel, followed by; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Putting my brew barrel in the fridge for 2 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned that this will be too effective and remove all the yeast from the beer, thereby resulting in under carbonated or even flat beer? Or will I just need to leave the bottled beer a little longer at room temperature to carbonate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience with this approach? What other options would you suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;Perk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T05:57:29.703" Title="Cold Crash and Finings" Tags="|finings|cold-crash|isinglass|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3348" CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:49:42.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would believe that you would remove too much of the remaining yeast and thus you beer wouldn't properly carbonate.  If you did do this you could use a highly flocculant yeast strain at bottling such as Nottingham dry yeast which clears quite quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using irish moss or whirlfloc tablets to see if that helps with the clarity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T21:49:42.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2011-02-03T00:17:30.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I add my blog at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fairwater-brewery.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.fairwater-brewery.co.uk&lt;/a&gt; - it's just my journal of brewing rather than anything desperately exciting or instructional...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For forums I tend to stick with Jim's Beer Kit or The Home Brew Forum, but that's probably 'cause they're UK based and fit with what I'm wanting to brew and the kit I use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="983" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T00:17:30.273" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-03T00:17:30.273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3238" CreationDate="2011-02-03T07:05:41.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Palmer recommends throwing a couple of copper pennies into the pot to prevent boilover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter1-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter1-1.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T07:05:41.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3353" CreationDate="2011-02-03T14:47:17.550" Score="4" ViewCount="7136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing an Imperial Stout (OG 1.081) and it is in primary now. I want to rack to secondary in one gallon jugs and want to flavor each differently. I have read through the coffee posts on here but cannot find good recommendations for exact measurements and methods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The question.&lt;/em&gt; For one gallon how much coffee should be used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to lightly grind the beans (low acid light roast) and &quot;dry hop&quot; them in secondary. A range of how much would be nice as I can do one gallon strong and another lighter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Second question&lt;/em&gt;  The same except using chocolate. What is the best method to get this flavor in at secondary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if there is a good way to do a something with cherries or star anise at this point I would like to try those as well but again, I need good measurements and methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I want to use ground coffee beans and probably cocoa nibs (the best use of chocolate in secondary I have found)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastEditorUserId="913" LastEditDate="2011-08-26T05:05:49.740" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T19:20:51.983" Title="Secondary flavoring of a stout using chocolate and coffee, how much to use?" Tags="|flavor|secondary|stout|coffee|chocolate|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3352" CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:06:32.903" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For how much coffee to use, check out the recent &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/700&quot;&gt;Can You Brew It&lt;/a&gt;&quot; where they tried to clone Terrapin's Wake-n-Bake stout.  They worked from the exact recipe as given to them by the brewer at Terrapin.  You can even buy the same blend of coffee they use commercially, if that interests you.  I just listened to it this week because I also have a big stout sitting in the primary that I'm going to add coffee &amp;amp; chocolate to.  Unfortunately, I don't remember exactly how much they used, because they added ground coffee to the secondary, like you plan to do.  I'm going to do it differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to cold brew about a pint of sumatra mandheling using my French press.  I'm going to make it a good bit stronger than if I were hot-brewing a cup for myself, probably twice as much coffee as I'd usually use.  That would mean two heaping tablespoons (instead of one) per four ounces of water.  I'll let it soak in pre-boiled, cooled water in the fridge for about 12 hours, then I'll press it off and pour it into the secondary before racking in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my chocolate flavor, I plan to use cacao nibs.  I got a bag of cracked ones as a gift.  I want to sterilize them, so I plan to soak 8 ounces of them in some Maker's Mark overnight, then add the nibs and the bourbon to the secondary with the coffee before racking.  I've never used nibs before, but I've read stuff from people who have and they were happy with the results.  8 ounces seems to be the sweet spot to get good-but-not-overwhelming chocolate flavor.  The bourbon will add a bit of flavor, but it shouldn't be overpowering.  Last night I did an experiment where I mixed 1/2 tsp of bourbon, 1/4 tsp instant espresso, and 1/4 tsp cocoa powder into 1 oz. of Fuller's London Porter, stirred it well to dissolve everything, then poured in the rest of the bottle.  The bourbon was just barely there as a background note.  The overall taste was pretty much what I'm looking for in my stout (except, you know, the base porter had less dark malt bitterness and the cocoa powder made it look like a glass of nesquik).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T15:06:32.903" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3355" CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:20:16.387" Score="5" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a lager that's been in my garage for the last month (generally hovering between 30 and 36F), and I saw a question relating to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1254/lager-bottle-conditioning-temperature&quot;&gt;temperatures for bottle conditioning a lager&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm wondering as far as the actual bottling if the beer's temperatures should be raised beforehand, either to awaken the remaining yeast to ensure carbonation and/or to prevent thermal expansion when the bottles do warm up (I'm not sure how big a factor, if at all, that last one would be).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T06:58:17.137" Title="Lager Bottling Temperature" Tags="|yeast|bottling|temperature|lager|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3354" CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:50:32.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer absorbs more CO2 when it's cold than when it's warm.  Since your beer has been cold, it's reabsorbed some of the CO2 created during fermentation.  You need to take that into account, whether bottling or kegging, or your beer will be overcarbonated.  Most priming calculators let you enter the temp of the beer to ascertain the amount of priming sugar or volumes of CO2 to use.  Or you can simply let the beer warm up to room temp before bottling or kegging.  As the temp rises, the dissolved CO2 will come out of solution so you don't need to take it into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T16:50:32.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3352" CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:53:09.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to do it is not add flavorings to the fermenter or kettle.  Add them after the beer is fermented so you can test and control the amounts.  After fermentation, before bottling or kegging, I pour 4 x 2oz. samples of the beer.  I does each with a different, measured amount of flavoring then taste. I pick the one I like best then scale that amount of flavoring up to the size of the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T21:48:20.393" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T21:48:20.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3335" CreationDate="2011-02-03T22:32:24.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that most wine kits have something done to them so that you can drink them sooner than if you were fermenting grapes. Check the kit instructions to be certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I've never made wine from any kit but I know people who have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T22:32:24.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3348" CreationDate="2011-02-03T23:27:20.987" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to say that you will have plenty of yeast remaining.  It may take a little longer for the carbonation to happen, but it will happen.  I have left beer in a cold primary for a month at a time before and still got proper carbonation within 2-3weeks post priming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T23:27:20.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3365" CreationDate="2011-02-04T04:47:09.203" Score="4" ViewCount="2565" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background:  My co-brewer (ScottyG) and I recently brewed our first all-grain in a converted Coleman cooler.  We have over sixty batches of extract under our belts and have even made a few hard ciders and a batch of mead.  I freely admit, we are a bit late in getting around to going all-grain, but we’ve learned a LOT in our 60+ batches of extract+steeping grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We didn’t have high expectations for the first batch.  We did some experiments to approximate temperature drops in the cooler (surprisingly little) and made sure we were using proper procedure.  (following via ScottyG) *We used 10# of grain (9# Marris Otter, 1# Simpson's Dark Crystal) and 1.5 qt/lb for both mashing and sparging. Doughed in at 153, added 1 pint of boiling water. We let it rest for 60 min and the final temp was 149 F. Sparge water was 168 F, and we let it soak for 20 minutes before draining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We did not: 1) Test pH 2) Test with iodine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First runnings were 2.4 gal @ 1.054, second runnings were 4.6 gal @ 1.012. Final was 7.1 gal @ 1.026 for an efficiency of 50%.*   Much lower than we had expected, much lower than our software or hand calculations projected.  The first running was about the SG we expected from the second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We used some pre-crushed grain that was about a year old. (crushed at Northern Brewer about a year ago). It was from a kit a friend bought for us to make and had mistakenly got all-grain.  We are reasonably certain that our troubles come from old grain, crushed a year ago.  (BTW, we augmented with some extract to bring the resulting beer up to an acceptable SG. (Yay, it’s gonna be a beer!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now after all that setup, here’s the question:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What effect does the age of the grain have on the amount of fermentables you can mash out of it?  Does the crush decrease the “freshness window?”   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR What effect does old grain have, especially if it was crushed in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="381" LastEditDate="2011-02-04T18:46:28.213" LastActivityDate="2011-02-05T05:23:45.320" Title="Effects of Grain Freshness on Brew House Efficiency" Tags="|mash|all-grain|storage|spoilage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3360" CreationDate="2011-02-04T06:47:26.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ScottyG here.  BTW we used 10# of grain (9# Marris Otter, 1# Simpson's Dark Crystal) and 1.5 qt/lb for both mashing and sparging.  Doughed in at 153, added 1 pint of boiling water.  We let it rest for 60 min and the final temp was 149 F.  Sparge water was 168 F, and we let it soak for 20 minutes before draining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We did not:&#xA;1)  Test pH&#xA;2)  Test with iodine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First runnings were 2.4 gal @ 1.054, second runnings were 4.6 gal @ 1.012.  Final was 7.1 gal @ 1.026 for an efficiency of 50%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user989" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T06:47:26.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3231" CreationDate="2011-02-04T13:15:26.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;i just googled &quot;mead jelly recipe&quot;...   looks like you can just follow a normal jelly recipe (sugar, water, pectin), but replace some of the water with mead.    I imagine you could use pyment in a grape jelly to amp up the &quot;grapeness&quot; or a berry melomel in a berry jelly, etc.  (Cyser in apple butter?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;actually, you may have to adjust the pectin slightly.   I don't know how the alcohol in the mead with react with it (since it's generally 10-20% of the volume of a mead).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://uktv.co.uk/food/recipe/aid/640258&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mead jelly with roasted pears&lt;/a&gt;  (hmm...   that's british jelly, which is gelatin, and not a fruit spread...   I just realized that I don't know which you're actually looking for)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-02-04T13:21:43.437" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T13:21:43.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3360" CreationDate="2011-02-04T13:41:22.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How was the crushed grain stored?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It possibly soaked up ambient moisture, due to high relative humidity.   Since it was crushed, it had more surface area to absorb the water.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was some discussion of humidity and efficiency on &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/Brew-Strong-11-24-08-Malt-Analysis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Strong&lt;/a&gt;, a few years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T13:41:22.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-04T20:46:24.947" Score="7" ViewCount="2321" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone brewed without using any bittering hops?  Are there any consequences to doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;  I ask because I want to brew a style that's not normally very bitter (weizen), but give it a small citrusy kick, without adding to the bitterness.  My thought was that I could just forgo the bittering hops, and throw in some Citra or Amarillo towards the end.  The calculations say it will hit the desired IBU's, just wanted to know if there was anything else to be aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2011-02-07T21:28:08.900" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T17:03:23.507" Title="Not using bittering hops" Tags="|beer|hops|brewing|bitterness|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3360" CreationDate="2011-02-04T20:49:03.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I have heard about malt that is old is that the conversion time may increase due to decreased or degraded enzymes.  It will potentially yield as much sugar as usual but may take an extra 30-60 minutes to fully convert.  If this is the case your 60 minute mash may have only converted a portion of the starch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have also used too much sparge water since your final volume is 7.1 gallons, if you would have only collected 5.5 gallons your gravity would have been much higher.  You essentially watered down your beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design of your mash tun may have also played a part in the decreased efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking all of these things into consideration this would explain your low gravity outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="687" LastEditDate="2011-02-04T20:56:00.290" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T20:56:00.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3364" CreationDate="2011-02-04T20:53:49.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you talking about not adding any hops at the beginning of the boil and relying on only late addition hops for bitterness?  This is a technique I have read about and tasted a few examples and the results were pretty good.  This works well in moderately bitter beers where you want a lot of hop flavor and aroma.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you eliminate the 60 minute addition and start adding hops at about 30 minutes at increased levels to make up for the shorter boil time.  There are no negative consequences that I know of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="687" LastEditDate="2011-02-04T22:02:14.897" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T22:02:14.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3364" CreationDate="2011-02-04T21:15:34.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No matter when you add hops, you'll get some bitterness.  That amount will decrease the later in the boil you add them.  As Chris noted, you can add larger amounts of hops later in the boil (usually at 20 min. or less) to get bittering levels equivalent to the traditional 60 min. bittering addition, but the character of the bitterness will be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T21:15:34.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3360" CreationDate="2011-02-05T05:23:45.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ScottyG again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To NB Chris:  I calculated the 50% efficiency based on 7.1 gal @ .026 points...if we'd have used less sparge water, we would have gotten fewer gallons but should have left more sugar in the grain.  The 1.012 from the second runnings appears to be all that was available.  We didn't worry about the high volume because we boiled most of the excess off anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To baka:  The 10# of grain was as measured by Northern Brewer when it was purchased.  I didn't re-weigh it, but we didn't correct for that anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To Denny:  We batch sparged.  I have seen different sources suggest that letting the sparge water sit for a bit can help ensure you get the last bit of sugar out of the grain, and we figured that worst-case, it was 20 minutes lost if it didn't help.  We did re-stir the grain bed what I thought was well.  I tasted some of the grain after we finished draining it and it wasn't particularly sweet anymore, so I think we were able to wash out what sugars were released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user989" LastActivityDate="2011-02-05T05:23:45.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2011-02-05T06:56:33.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me, the best one is Grosch-style swing top caps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hn56fm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Beer bottle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="990" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-12-12T16:01:41.000" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T16:01:41.000" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-05T06:56:33.010" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3371" CreationDate="2011-02-05T07:13:57.867" Score="3" ViewCount="1678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed and subsequently bottled 2 batches of beer together, following much the same process for cleaning/sanitizing and brewing throughout.  When bottling, I bulk primed both batches with a sugar solution split between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having bottled both batches, one has come out fine with all bottles carbonated, but the other has about half the bottles with no activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the yeast might have died in that latter batch, or an oxygenation problem, but am seeking clarification and suggestions.  The flat beer smells and tastes ok, it just hasn't carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="179" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T19:26:41.547" Title="Why is some of my beer flat (half of the bottles in one of 2 batches done together)?" Tags="|yeast|bottling|carbonation|priming|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3370" CreationDate="2011-02-05T12:04:15.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the latter batch had about half of the bottles uncarbonated like you mentioned &quot;but the other has about half the bottles with no activity&quot; then it sounds like the sugar solution and beer did not get mixed thoroughly and therefore the ones that didnt have enough of the sugar solution did not carbonate.  To avoid this I put the sugar solution in my bottling bucket and then rack onto it also stirring lightly with the racking cane before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-02-05T12:04:15.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3375" CreationDate="2011-02-05T18:07:57.357" Score="5" ViewCount="911" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a company that sells canning equipment that's not outrageously expensive? I'd love to be able to can my homebrew&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="961" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T05:49:49.217" Title="Can you can homebrew?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3386" CreationDate="2011-02-06T01:16:51.520" Score="5" ViewCount="2666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed an oatmeal stout that has distinct bacon notes to it, both in the nose and in the flavor.  What could be causing these flavors?  This bacon-ness isn't disagreeable; it's actually quite pleasant in this beer.  It's not rancid or meaty.  It's a smoky note that smells bacon-like.  It's just that I didn't expect it and I don't know what caused it.  It likely came from some of my dark malts, but I can't say for sure.  Maybe it came from the yeast.  I dunno.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is still very young - I just now racked the two week old beer into a secondary fermenter to add some cold-brewed coffee and cacao nibs soaked in Maker's Mark to make it a breakfast stout.  It had the bacon-ness when I tasted it when fermentation finished and it still has the flavor today, prior to racking onto the flavorants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my recipe and notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;14 lbs US 2-row pale malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lb, 6 oz flaked oats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lb chocolate malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 oz roasted barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9 oz black patent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 oz crystal 120&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Nugget&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 oz Mt. Hood (30 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/8 tsp yeast nutrient (10 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/2 tsp Irish moss (10 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 oz Mt. Hood (0 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2 Packages SafAle S-04, proofed in 100F H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;O&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mash all grains at 153F for 60 minuets&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After collecting the first runnings, batch sparged with 188F water, which brought mash temp to 168F.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boiled for 90 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG: 1.080&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FG: 1.022&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The beer fermented very quickly.  I brewed on Saturday, 01/22/11 and it had dropped from 1.080 to 1.022 by Monday evening, 01/24/11.  Even so, the fermentation temperature never went above 72F.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I meant to put some info about my water/mash chemistry, in case that's important.  For this beer I did not make any water adjustments (except for dechlorination).  No acids, no carbonates, no salts.  I just went with nine gallons of my tap water with 1/2 tsp of potassium metabisulfite to dechlorinate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was concerned that I couldn't brew such a dark beer without adjusting my water because &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Palmer's nomograph&lt;/a&gt; suggests I can brew beers between about 9 and 18 SRM without any adjustment.  This beer comes in at 52 SRM.  However, after mashing in and waiting 15 minutes, I tested my mash pH with a pH meter and it read 5.27, so I did not adjust it.  Here are the values from my water report:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pH: 8.3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ca: 28 ppm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mg: 6.2 ppm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Na: 30 ppm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SO&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt;: 65 ppm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cl&lt;sup&gt;-&lt;/sup&gt;: 31 ppm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CaCO&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt;: 61 ppm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="430" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T14:44:19.613" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T18:45:39.543" Title="Why does my beer taste like bacon?" Tags="|flavor|off-flavor|bacon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3394" CreationDate="2011-02-06T03:03:22.170" Score="3" ViewCount="8136" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brew kit came with 750mL plastic (PET) bottles &amp;amp; screw-on caps, which I've used.  The &quot;safety seals&quot; are broken, but I thought they were more an indicator of product tampering than a functional device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I able to re-use the plastic caps in future brews if I sanitise properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T00:20:05.037" Title="Can the plastic caps on PET bottles be re-used?" Tags="|sanitation|capping|plastic|recapping|reuse|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3372" CreationDate="2011-02-06T05:49:49.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything I've found is pretty expensive. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cask.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cask.com&lt;/a&gt; advertises small-scale manual beer-canning equipment that's presumably pretty cheap, but I can't find their on-line store. Your local U-Brew might have a canning machine that they'll let you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T05:49:49.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3373" CreationDate="2011-02-06T16:43:17.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely an infection.  Both pedio and lactic infections can produce smoky phenolics.  Unfortunately, I have experience with that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T16:43:17.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3374" CreationDate="2011-02-06T16:44:57.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely you can.  I've been doing it for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T16:44:57.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3381" CreationDate="2011-02-06T19:40:24.240" Score="2" ViewCount="2155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to see if anyone else had this experience - I'm on my second batch of a Wit bier with this yeast and have noticed that in both scenarios - after two weeks the Krausen has not fallen. The first batch I transferred to the secondary while the krausen was still present (which I will not be doing with the second batch). The FG checked out on target with the initial batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running up on week two for the second batch and fermentation is still moving. The fermentation of the first batch was @65 degrees and the second batch is at the lower end of 60 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else experienced &quot;slow&quot; fermentation using a witbier yeast such as Wyeast 3944? What has you experience been? I've googled a bit and noticed mixed results about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="992" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T14:31:20.990" Title="Wyeast 3944 Slow to Work" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|belgian-white|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3373" CreationDate="2011-02-06T21:24:47.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first guess (and this is really nothing but a guess) would be the mix of chocolate, roasted &amp;amp; black patent barley. Different mixes are going to give you different flavors -- coffee, chocolate, dark-roast, etc. This mix is the magical 'bacon' mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rauchbeers can also taste bacon-y, but they are using smoked malts. None of the malts in your beer are smoked, but the high kilning temperatures could be leading to some flavor compounds similar to bacon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T21:24:47.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3378" CreationDate="2011-02-07T03:50:10.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used this yeast, so I don't have first-hand experience. But Wyeast 3944 is (according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yeast chart put together by Kristen England&lt;/a&gt;) the same yeast as White WLP400. And &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp400.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;many of the reviews&lt;/a&gt; of WLP400 suggest that it can be a slow worker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T03:50:10.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3378" CreationDate="2011-02-07T12:53:17.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How a beer looks really doesn't tell you how well fermentation is progressing.  A yeast can still be floating around the top and be close to done.  Only gravity measurements along the way tell you how its coming.  A poorly flocculating yeast would look like this.  And A wit yeast stays in suspension better than others anyway.  To mean everything sounds normal with this yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wit is supposed to be cloudy.  Leave it in primary for the better part of 10 days, then start checking the graivity.  When its done bottle it.  There is no need for a secondary with a Wit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T12:53:17.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3385" CreationDate="2011-02-07T13:03:48.423" Score="7" ViewCount="3938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently brewed at APA and the IBUs have come out a little on the low side. I would like to increase the IBUS slightly. I was thinking of making a hop tea and adding it straight to the keg. Has anyone tried this? What are the things i need to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastEditorUserId="430" LastEditDate="2011-02-07T13:04:27.637" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T20:56:31.263" Title="Increasing IBUs post fermentation" Tags="|hops|ibu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3382" CreationDate="2011-02-07T13:20:12.043" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing about hop teas is that they contain negligible bittering levels.  They do, however, contain a ton of hop flavor &amp;amp; aroma.  If you're looking to boost IBUs but not flavor and aroma, a tea is not the way to go.  In order for hops to bitter a beer, they need to be boiled to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Alpha_acids#Iso-alpha_acids&quot;&gt;isomerize the alpha acids&lt;/a&gt;.  Hop teas are typically made by steeping the hops in hot (not boiling) water.  Doing this allows you to extract hop flavor and aroma without getting any bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently did this on an IPA I brewed.  When I finished sparging, I drew off one pint of the wort and brought it to a boil.  As soon as it hit the boil, I killed the flame and let it cool to about 190F, then poured it into my French press which contained about 3/4 oz of centennial pellets.  I allowed this to steep while my kettle came to a boil.  When the kettle reached a boil, I pressed the hop tea off into a sanitized jar and set it aside.  I then added the hops from the French press to my kettle, using them as part of my 60 minute addition.  This allowed me to pre-extract the flavor &amp;amp; aroma from bittering hops.  The tea, however, contained little-to-no IBUs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you just want to boost IBUs, you could take some bittering hops and boil them for an hour, then add this to your beer.  It's probably a good idea to add some DME to the water to get it to about 1.025 or so to create a wort with chemistry that will allow for better hop utilization than you'd get with plain water.  Yes, hop utilization goes down as SG goes up, but I've read that the pH and other minerals you'll get from adding some DME will work better for you than plain water.  If you do this and use DME, you'll be adding fermentables, so you should account for that.  If you're bottle conditioning, you could plan to prime with DME and boil it for an hour with some hops (remember to account for boil-off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, I think the easiest way to boost IBUs is probably to just use some &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/7835/103693/IsoHop_Bitterness_Extract_1_oz&quot;&gt;hop extract&lt;/a&gt;.  I've never used it, but it exists for just this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T13:20:12.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3378" CreationDate="2011-02-07T14:31:20.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used 3944 in a couple of beers, and in my experience it usually takes at least two weeks to reach the desired FG. So yeah, it's pretty slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T14:31:20.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3382" CreationDate="2011-02-07T14:51:46.937" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to do this post boil/fermentation would be to get your hands on some isomerized alpha acid extract.  Add it dropwise until the bitterness is where you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T14:51:46.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3373" CreationDate="2011-02-07T18:45:39.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bacon flavor could be coming from a couple of different things but it would be hard to pinpoint exactly without a sample.  Here are a few things it could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing is that you can get a smoky flavor from the chocolate malt, the roasted barley, and other dark roasted grain, this happens when you use a larger percentage of these dark grains in your malt bill.  This is the most likely scenario.  There could also be some contributing factors in the water profile but not likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, like Denny mentioned above, it could be an infection that is producing phenols that are perceived as smoky, but since your wife detected this flavor in the boil kettle it's most likely not the case.  You can also get these types of phenols from oversparging, sparging above 6.0 pH, and sparging above 170F.  It's possible when you added the batch sparge water it brought the pH above 6.0 if your water is highly buffered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the possibility that there was still some chlorine left in your brewing water.  You can confirm this by using test strips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T18:45:39.543" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3370" CreationDate="2011-02-07T19:26:41.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other folks that you have to put your priming sugar in the bottling bucked prior to racking the beer over.  Another thing to consider, though - any chance you boiled your bottle caps to sanitize them?  If so, you may have damaged the seals which could explain your lack of carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1001" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T19:26:41.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3389" CreationDate="2011-02-07T23:32:08.190" Score="11" ViewCount="13146" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the proper way and temperature to store yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:19:00.367" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:19:00.367" Title="Proper Way to Store Yeast" Tags="|yeast|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3388" CreationDate="2011-02-07T23:55:57.837" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer varies depending on the type of yeast, but in general, the fridge is a good bet (37-41F). Dry yeast can stay viable for a long time stored at room temperature, but liquid or cultured yeast should definitely be stored in the fridge to keep them in a dormant state and increase their longevity (dry yeast will also last longer in the fridge but it's not strictly necessary). Cultured yeast should be stored in pure, sterile water (you should be able to look up methods of &quot;washing&quot; yeast from previous batches pretty easily), while store bought yeast can be stored in whatever container it comes in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T23:55:57.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3388" CreationDate="2011-02-08T15:01:56.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Store your store bought yeast in the fridge, regardless of format (dry v. liquid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I order yeast online with ingredients from a web store I like to make my starter right away.  Then I put the whole starter in the fridge after it completely ferments out.  Because I never really know how well the shipping trip treated the yeast, I figure if I get it started ASAP it will help revive the healthiest cells that remain.  Then the starter with spent wort (or sterile water) on top of it will keep for at least two weeks and its ready to pitch. I like to let it come back to room temp while I brew, then pitch the slurry only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T15:01:56.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3393" CreationDate="2011-02-08T15:40:26.897" Score="5" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just moved to a home where there is natural gas being piped into the garage for a garage heater.  I was thinking of re-tooling my burners with jet/orifices that can handle the lower pressure of the natural gas v. the propane tank hook ups I use now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does natural gas have more or less BTUs than the propane?&#xA;Would you expect a longer or shorter &quot;time to boil&quot; if I switch over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T17:07:15.573" Title="Propane v. Natural Gas" Tags="|equipment|boil|propane-burner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3391" CreationDate="2011-02-08T16:48:05.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.propane101.com/propanevsnaturalgas.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brought to you by the propane council&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like propane is more than twice as energy dense as natural gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know if that means a 100kBTU burner would be a less-than 50kBTU burner when using the different fuel, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T16:48:05.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3391" CreationDate="2011-02-08T17:07:15.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_of_combustion#Heat_of_combustion_tables&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these figures&lt;/a&gt; correctly, Natural Gas contains 23,000 BTUs/Lb. vs Propane's 21,000 BTUs/Lb.  How the propane council baka references comes up with their numbers likely has more to do with marketing spin (measuring energy density by volume, not mass) than science, I suspect.  How effectively you can utilize that and what it's going to cost you is another thing entirely, but as far as I can tell, Natural Gas is more energy dense by weight than Propane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T17:07:15.573" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3374" CreationDate="2011-02-08T21:00:11.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they're fine to reuse, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;if:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Threads are good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inner seal is good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure to rinse them asap, sanitize them before use, and inspect and toss any worn out ones regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safety seals don't matter, but you may want to consider replacing the caps if you're transporting the beer--there's the chance an officer could claim that the broken seal == open beer, but that's a pretty small concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T21:00:11.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-09T01:20:43.277" Score="3" ViewCount="1683" Body="&lt;p&gt;My beer is stuck at 1.052 and it started at 1.092. The type of yeast is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=136&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wyeast #3522&lt;/a&gt;, so I expect it to get quite a bit lower. It's been 3 weeks since we brewed it and it's now rather clear. I suspect that my apartment got too cold. Can anyone help me revive my yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8lbs pilsner LME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2lbs light DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1lb Carapils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2lbs candi sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1oz Northern Brewer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1oz Saaz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="961" LastEditorUserId="961" LastEditDate="2011-02-09T02:44:56.497" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T12:48:45.987" Title="Stuck fermentation" Tags="|beer|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3395" CreationDate="2011-02-09T01:33:13.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be able to raise the temperature up to the mid 60's to low 70's, and give it a good, hard swirl in the fermenter (assuming you're in a bucket or carboy), to get it roused.   You may need to rouse it a few times over a couple of days to get it back up and going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, you may be able to make a small starter with some US-05 or T-58 dry yeast, and repitch with that (be sure to rehydrate with 90-100F water for 5-15 minutes first).   That's why I always keep a few packs of dry yeast around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T01:33:13.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2509" CreationDate="2011-02-09T06:56:36.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use this worksheet &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beernut.com/zen-cart/pub/worksheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.beernut.com/zen-cart/pub/worksheet.pdf&lt;/a&gt; from my LHBS. Maybe a little basic but it works for the extract kits I use. I find it very helpful from batch to batch and just keep them all in a brew binder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T06:56:36.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1566" CreationDate="2011-02-09T08:08:47.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pitching and fermenting at the higher end of the yeasts recommended range will speed fermentation. I also agree with the other post and comments before mine as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T08:08:47.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3400" CreationDate="2011-02-09T12:22:19.813" Score="4" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to make 5 gallons of a rather light lager.  The recipe calls for 6.5 lbs DME (munton's extra light), but I could only order two 3 lb bags and a 1 lb bag.  Would it be a disaster to toss that extra half pound of DME in the boil, or would it probably work out alright?  What would the main effects be - darker, higher OG, sweeter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="177" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T02:51:54.807" Title="Adding extra malt" Tags="|lager|malt|dme|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3399" CreationDate="2011-02-09T12:35:58.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your yeast are in great shape and you are pitching the right amount, then there is no need for concern over it being a little sweet in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An extra half pound will raise the gravity by only 4-5 points for a 5 gallon batch.&#xA;So go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T12:35:58.383" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3395" CreationDate="2011-02-09T12:48:45.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you do any repitching, you must get the temp up first.  Otherwise the new yeast will just settle out with temperature shock too.  That strain is a high flocculator, so if the temp is to low it certainly drops out early.  Get the temp up to 72F and try the following ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I'd rouse the yeast you have a bit and see if it will come revive and be active.  You can pick up the fermentor and gently swirl it until the you get enough liquid movement to get the cake moving, but that can be very tough.  A better option is to go in with a sanitized racking cane and gently agitate the cake a bit to break it up.  The best option would be to attach a CO2 source to your racking cane and use some CO2 flow to bubble the cake up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that bubbles in the airlock after rouse an the temperature increase won't indicate activity.  It will just be residual dissolved CO2 coming out of solution.  You'll have to monitor the gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't aerate the wort well, or pitch yeast from a LARGE and very active starter there is no way you could expect that yeast to finish a 1092 wort.  So you will really need to pitch more yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest getting another good starter going of the same yeast actually.  The Ardennes strain is a good fermentor.  Get that temp up and pitch another good starter of the same yeast.  You can try an neutral ale yeast, but the Ardennes is better suited to this high gravity wort than a US05 or WLP001 or WY1056.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to pitch two rehydrated packets of dried yeast if that's easier for you.  But you should be able to rescue this beer with more of the same yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T12:48:45.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1566" CreationDate="2011-02-09T13:29:01.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never really rushed one, but low gravity English styles (Mild, Bitter) would probably work well.   The British yeast I've used have all finished and flocculated out quickly (particularly the WY1968, but the WLP002 and S-04 show similar characteristics), and the low gravity would ensure that they don't have too much sugar to run through.    The gravity of the last bitter (1.036 OG) I brewed was stable after 6 days.   If I hadn't been oaking it, it could have probably been finished carbonating within 10ish days, if I laid the gas to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T13:29:01.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1566" CreationDate="2011-02-09T13:45:54.110" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Session beers, and slight over pitching is how I've made it happen.  Keep your gravities to 1.040 or less and pitch two packs of yeast in general.  English Ales definately are a good choice because the yeasts tend to flocc out really well, so you get clearly beer sooner.  Where are American Ale yeasts tend to take a litte more time to clear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T13:45:54.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3364" CreationDate="2011-02-09T17:03:23.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a spin-off/inspired of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jamil Z.'s Evil Twin&lt;/a&gt; using his 20-10-0 addition schedule and it's still fermenting, but it smeels awesome and the fermenting wort tastes great. The hop aroma is VERY strong, which is fine for my beer, but may not be for yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you chose your hops carefully and added them at 20 minutes only you would get a good bit of flavor without too much aroma, but there will still be some hop aroma. If you want hop aroma you could add @ 10 and 0 as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this will actually produce a pretty interesting beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T17:03:23.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3406" CreationDate="2011-02-10T00:57:33.240" Score="5" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to brew an Amber Ale (from an LHBS kit) that comes with a US-05 Safale yeast.  The forecasted temperature for the next couple of weeks is likely to remain at min 20C (68F) overnight &amp;amp; max of 36/37C (~100F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will the effects be of brewing an Ale in too-hot temperature versus substituting the yeast for a Saison yeast (Wyeast 3724)?  Should I favour one over the other or are both bad ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T16:15:32.440" Title="Should I brew in too-warm climate or substitute the yeast?" Tags="|yeast|temperature|ale|saison|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3405" CreationDate="2011-02-10T03:08:54.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a cooler that will hold your fermentor (i've used my mash tun with a blanket or sleeping bag draped over it to hold the cold in),  4+ plastic bottles that you can fill with water &amp;amp; freeze (ice packs also work), and a closet that you can keep at a semi-stable temperature, you might be OK with either of them, but you'd probably also want room in a refrigerator to get the wort down to your pitching temperature (mid to low 60's Farenheit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the wort cool, and aerate and pitch your yeast.   Then set the fermentor into the cooler and pour cool water into the cooler, to use as a buffer/thermal mass.   Put a couple of bottles of ice into the water every 12 hours or so, and pull out the old ones that are in there and refreeze them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you could let the saison yeast get above 85F toward the end of fermentation, but people seem to think I'm crazy for suggesting such things.  I would try to keep the US-05 under 75F (and preferably under 72F). The important thing is to keep the reins on the temperature for the first 72 hours or so, after that, most of the flavor compounds have been produced, and the yeast will work on converting the more complex sugars and breaking down things like acetaldehyde and diacetyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/The-Jamil-Show&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Check episodes of the Jamil Show&lt;/a&gt; for the style that you're trying to brew for some good tips on how to approach it and how to handle fermentation temperatures and the like.  There's also a &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/533&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Strong on fermentation temperature control&lt;/a&gt;, which is definitely worth listening to.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T03:08:54.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3405" CreationDate="2011-02-10T16:15:32.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a saison yeast will make a completely different beer.  Is that OK with  you?  IMO, you'd be better off trying to find a way to keep the batch cool rather than radically altering the beer you want to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T16:15:32.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3410" CreationDate="2011-02-10T21:58:51.620" Score="5" ViewCount="859" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm investigating buying crown caps in bulk and having a logo and/or my name professionally printed on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if this is possible on a small-ish scale and is it within the budget of a home-brewer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who does this kind of printing? Does anyone have a website or contact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T19:35:49.823" Title="Where can I get printed crown caps?" Tags="|caps|printing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3409" CreationDate="2011-02-10T22:55:02.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wild Hops does laser etched caps- &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wildhopsprintshop.com/store/custom-bottle-caps.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wildhopsprintshop.com/store/custom-bottle-caps.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get a pretty good look by printing on 1&quot; round labels-&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2010/12/labeling-your-homebrew-part-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2010/12/labeling-your-homebrew-part-2.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1016" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T22:55:02.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1566" CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:47:21.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the fastest beer, the style choice is the main thing.  The beers mentioned before work very well, but if you want to be drinking in one week, how about a Belgian Wit, German Weizen, or American Hefeweizen.  All these beers are meant to have yeast still in them, so clarity is not an issue, and the bready flavors and aromas true to the styles are most predominant in the first couple weeks.  Wit's especially should be consumed while very young or they lose much of their flavor.  And of course for speed beer purposes, I would reiterate the comments on keeping the gravity under 1.045 and overpitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1011" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T17:47:21.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3413" CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:42:27.550" Score="4" ViewCount="1155" Body="&lt;p&gt;My last few beers (all grain) have been a little astringent--there's a dry, almost chalky aspect to the beer. What are some things I should do to bring the astringency down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="160" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T16:18:20.620" Title="How to prevent astringency?" Tags="|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3412" CreationDate="2011-02-11T21:52:04.367" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mineral profile of the water and pH are 2 of the leading causes of astringency.  Are you experiencing it with a variety if styles or just one?  It can be especially prevalent in dark beers if your pH is too low.  Dark grains will lower your pH and you need to do something to get it back up into the 5.2-5.4 range. Contrary to the old myth that sparging over 170F will extract tannins, the real culprit is pH.  I crush very fine, I usually sparge with near boiling water and my efficiency averages about 85%.  All of those are things that have been cited as causing astringency, but I have no issues because I pay attention to the pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-02-12T16:17:42.050" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T16:17:42.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-12T00:22:32.093" Score="2" ViewCount="1260" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know if a table of ppg for various common ingredients can be found online somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1022" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T01:03:53.960" Title="PPG tables online?" Tags="|wort|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3414" CreationDate="2011-02-12T00:52:12.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-4-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one from How To Brew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T00:52:12.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3414" CreationDate="2011-02-12T01:03:53.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to reference the tables from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/Grains/Grains/GrainList.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beersmith&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Malts_Chart&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrewtalk&lt;/a&gt;.  The homebrewtalk chart is especially nice with the added characteristics and the Beersmith chart has the max in batch column which is nice to reference when checking your grist percentages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The How to Brew chart that baka posted is nice in that it provides some steeping ppg for specialty grains not just mash ppg but their aren't very many on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T01:03:53.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3421" CreationDate="2011-02-12T15:48:39.550" Score="4" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would've thought the answer was obvious, seeing as how it's alcohol.  But I took a whiff, and it smells like fermentation.  Now I like fermentation, it means beer is on its way.  I don't like fermentation flavored vodka.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, is there some reason why drinking this would actually be bad?  Can't imagine alcohol being bad for you, just curious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, any ideas on what to mix it with?  I know I can experiment, but if it doesn't work, I'll be committing alcohol abuse, and that's going to ruin my brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this might sound on the edge of homebrew question, talking about vodka, but I believe this is a semi-common byproduct of the brewing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="1163" LastEditDate="2017-12-08T20:12:40.743" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T20:12:40.743" Title="What do you do with the vodka from your ferm locks?" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3417" CreationDate="2011-02-12T16:53:06.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Save it for your next brew day and mix it with a glass of your first runnings (assuming you're brewing all-grain).   This is also awesome with spiced rum, bourbon, scotch whisky, or probably just about any other good spirit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T16:53:06.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-12T22:12:24.070" Score="3" ViewCount="3402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed what I describe as a &quot;plastic bag burp&quot; property in some beers. In short, beer burps after drinking the beer have a slight plastic-y aftertaste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice this most often in home brew and in some less-than-stellar craft beers, but I also notice it in some (but not all) of the classic bavarian hefes (e.g. Weihenstephan, Paulaner). Given that weissbier connection I'm wondering if it's a sign of a specific ester or phenolic byproduct, specifically sought for in the bavarian beers, and accidentally produced in the home brews. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to know what specifically that taste might be coming from, and for bonus points how to avoid it when it's not true to the beer style's taste profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T21:25:40.703" Title="What causes beer to have a &quot;plastic bag burp&quot; taste" Tags="|taste|weiss|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3422" CreationDate="2011-02-12T22:16:43.380" Score="6" ViewCount="1274" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do I need to prepare a used corny keg (picked up at a flea market say) for brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I replace the seals? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need a special tool to remove the posts? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What products and techniques should I use to clean and sanitize the keg?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What else do I need to think about?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T16:28:15.433" Title="What do I need to refurbish a corny keg?" Tags="|equipment|cleaning|keg|sanitation|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3417" CreationDate="2011-02-13T13:53:40.673" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd mix it with everything else going down my drain that day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T13:53:40.673" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3420" CreationDate="2011-02-13T16:28:15.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing the seals is usually a good idea. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/kegging/soda-kegs-fittings/used-keg-seal-kit.html&quot;&gt;Seal Kits&lt;/a&gt; are inexpensive. A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Assemble-a-Cornelius-Keg&quot;&gt;good how-to on replacing seals&lt;/a&gt; is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one tricky bit about o-rings is that certain types work best with certain kegs. This is especially true of the o-rings that sit between the dip tubes and the in/out ports. With the right o-rings, you really don't have to apply that much torque to the in/out post to get it to hold pressure. With the wrong type of o-ring you might have to really wrench it down, which can cause galling on the threads and shorten the life of your keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for tools, not really. An adjustable wrench is fine. If you have a socket-wrench set with deep sockets, that works too. When you disassemble the thing, keep track of which part goes with which port. Makes reassembly easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning &amp;amp; Sanitizing is the same as any homebrewing equipment. Soaking the insides with PBW and StarSan is my normal approach. Soak the disassembled parts in the same stuff. These two episodes of Brew Strong (&lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/616&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/624&quot;&gt;two&lt;/a&gt;) go in to the process a bit more. But there's nothing tricky about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's not much else to keg maintenance. I like having a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/bleeder-valve.html&quot;&gt;bleeder valve&lt;/a&gt; around just to make sure my kegs are holding pressure over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T16:28:15.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-13T18:35:18.580" Score="4" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im about to bottle my first 5 gal batch that i have made in a while, and am considering buying some 22oz bottles to try to reduce the amount of time i spend cleaning bottles, but am wondering if the convenience comes at any cost.  Do the smaller 12oz bottles have any benefit to the conditioning, or carbonation of the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1022" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T20:59:55.790" Title="Benefit to smaller bottles?" Tags="|equipment|bottling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3423" CreationDate="2011-02-13T19:25:54.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, there is little difference; however, with the way we typically bottle, the volume to headspace (remaining volume of air) will be different, which may affect attenuation and conditioning.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The inverse reason to why it's not a good idea to only fill a bottle half way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T19:25:54.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3423" CreationDate="2011-02-13T20:59:55.790" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short the biggest convenience of 12oz v 22oz is that you don't have to drink two-ish beers when you want one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't any noticeable difference in my experience between the carbonation amount in on versus the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T20:59:55.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3417" CreationDate="2011-02-14T21:06:43.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer to drink an amount equal to what I put in the fermentation lock so the feeling of alcohol abuse is only 'half-bad'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T21:06:43.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3434" CreationDate="2011-02-14T22:00:06.293" Score="12" ViewCount="6210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the final stages of my very first beer, which is a Belgian wit. Everything has gone great so far, and I will be bottling in just a few days. I have a pretty high alcohol content (around 8.2%, which I would like to bring down), and I think my volume is the reason;  I only have maybe 4 gallons of beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When bottling day comes, I will be boiling some sugar and adding that to my beer before I bottle. My question is, can I boil the sugar in say a gallon of water, and add that? I want to bring my alcohol content down a bit, and hopefully lighten the color of the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would make sense to me that I could do this, since what I have right now is essentially a &quot;slightly dehydrated&quot; beer. If I can do this, then at what point do I take my &quot;final&quot; hydrometer reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the questions again, in quick and to the point form:&#xA;1. Can I add a gallon of water to my beer before bottling?&#xA;2. If I do this, when do I take a &quot;final&quot; hydrometer reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1030" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T12:57:18.880" Title="Can I add some water before I bottle?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|water|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3419" CreationDate="2011-02-14T22:05:57.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that you are describing phenols when you talk about the &quot;plastic bag burp&quot; taste.  Phenol production does vary quite a bit from one yeast strain to another with the Bavarian weizen yeasts and many Belgian yeasts producing more desirable phenols.  Unwanted phenols produce a medicinal, band-aid, smoky, or plastic aroma and flavor.  These are often caused by chlorophenols in the water, improper rinsing of chlorine sanitizers, oversparging, sparging with a pH over 6.0, poor yeast health, and wild yeast contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid these flavors you should use a block carbon filter or campden tablets to remove chlorophenols from your water, use a healthy yeast strain, proper sparging while monitoring temperature and pH, and employ a good rinse of chlorine sanitizers or use a non-chlorine sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a large yeast starter and controlling your fermentation temperature will also decrease phenol production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T22:05:57.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3427" CreationDate="2011-02-14T22:34:52.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that would be fine so long as you cool it sufficiently before adding it, which you ought to be doing regardless of how much you're adding with the priming.  As far as the hydrometer reading, that's a tough one.  You'd ideally want the pre-primed reading, but if you're using the water to dilute the strong beer you don't have an opportunity.  Maybe boil your 1+ gallon of water, dissolve the priming sugar in a small quantity (just enough for the sugar/DME to dissolve in), dilute the beer with the plain (boiled/cooled) water, take your hydrometer reading, and then add the priming sugar and bottle.  That said, I don't know how crucial the final reading is, or if you might be able to do the math based on current reading, existing volume, and the volume after diluting.  I don't generally take a reading before bottling (though I suppose probably ought to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T22:34:52.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3433" CreationDate="2011-02-14T22:43:10.730" Score="3" ViewCount="1149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to this homebrewing, made a mistake and wondering the consequences of my actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just completed the first week of fermentation and now have moved over to a plastic keg supplied with my kit. I noticed when I returned from work a leaking seal and wondered if the pressure in the barrel was to high and if my brass air value was malfunctioning. So I released the gas from the keg. I now know this was a big mistake. I've resealed the valve and shook the keg to build pressure up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering if this destroyed this batch of ale?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was sitting in the keg (second stage fermentation for no more than 24 hours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I apologize if i've failed to give enough detail and will correct it on demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1031" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-02-15T15:30:52.037" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T15:30:52.037" Title="Letting the gas out of a keg" Tags="|equipment|carbonation|kegging|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3427" CreationDate="2011-02-15T02:04:00.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could just not worry about the final gravity reading this time and just drink your beer.   You can definitely add the water the way you're wanting to do, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T02:04:00.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3430" CreationDate="2011-02-15T06:21:16.413" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmm, after a day, there should still be enough priming sugar (or as-of-yet-unfermented malt) left in the beer to carbonate it. It probably wouldn't kill you to add maybe 1/3 cup of dextrose (or table sugar, if you're not fussy), dissolved in boiled water &amp;amp; cooled down. That's a wild guess -- 23 L (6 US gallon) batches usually use 3/4-1 cup dextrose as a priming sugar, and all you should need to do is top it up a bit. Don't worry! The beer will probably turn out great. Never throw out a batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, shaking up the keg does nothing except shake the dissolved CO2 out of the beer, which is the opposite of what you want to do -- but the beer will reabsorb that CO2 within a couple hours, so that's no big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T06:21:16.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3430" CreationDate="2011-02-15T13:12:25.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have oxygenated the beer some when you opened it up to fix the seal, then shook the keg.  The shaking thoroughly mixed the beer with the O2 you introduced.  And the shaking pulled the CO2 out of the beer and put it in the head space.   The beer will re-equilibrate but not to the same level it would have gone to naturally, because there isn't enough head pressure left (post bleeding off) to get the right equilibrium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to worry though, we all make mistakes along the way.  If you get the beer carbed up again and drink it quickly you'll be in good shape.  Just learn from it and move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can certainly reprime and see if you can get it to recarb.  If possible, next time I'd just bleed a little gas off at a time and see if the leaky stops.  I wouldn't degas the whole keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(See my comment about volumes and I'll edit my post with some better #s for the priming sugar, or someone will get to it before me)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T13:12:25.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3427" CreationDate="2011-02-15T13:17:10.953" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There certainly isn't any harm on doing it at bottling.  You just don't want to do it prior to bottling.  Adding straight water to the beer might oxidize the beer.  I'd just recommend that you boil the water for a good 15 minutes first to drive off any oxygen that's in the water.  If you don't then that O2 will mix and oxidize the beer.  I'd boil for 15, then kill the heat and add your sugar.  That will be more then enough to sanitize and dissolve the sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be very mindful of your volumes.  You need to boil more than 1 gallon of water because you'll lose some to evaporation.  You want to also be sure you have 4 gallons of beer.  The volumes are important just so you can accurately track what you are doing and how the gravity and ABV gets effected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd leave it alone if it was me.  But I hope I provided a decent idea of how to go about what you want to do.  Shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T13:17:10.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3440" CreationDate="2011-02-15T15:56:10.580" Score="5" ViewCount="1062" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a pump to use for transferring wort from a 55 gallon drum. Do you have any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1033" LastEditorUserId="1033" LastEditDate="2011-02-15T17:59:26.450" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T11:14:30.240" Title="Good food-grade electric pump for transferring wort?" Tags="|equipment|pump|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3438" CreationDate="2011-02-15T19:12:24.307" Score="7" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where is the ideal place to ferment my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible locations for me are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extra room inside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Garage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Back porch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of those three places, which would be the best overall place? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="938" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T16:54:02.373" Title="Fermentation locations" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3436" CreationDate="2011-02-15T19:19:41.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best place would be the one that maintains a relatively constant target temperature and doesn't expose the beer to sunlight/UV.  My 2/3 season porch tends to fluctuate temperature during the day, especially on sunny days.  My garage is underground and holds a good low, cave-like, temperature (lager temps in winter).  Above-ground garages may not be so ideal.  Depending on time of year, spare rooms in my house sit at, roughly, ideal ale temperatures, but my basement is usually my go-to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T19:19:41.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3436" CreationDate="2011-02-15T19:20:31.677" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whichever place can maintain a steady temp of about 62-65F for ales or 45-50F for lagers.  That's the main concern.  After that, you want to make it someplace that's easily accessible.  Someplace you can keep dark would be great, but you can always just cover the fermenter if the space isn't dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T19:20:31.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3436" CreationDate="2011-02-15T20:40:46.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All three can work very well, as others have said the key aspects are consistent temperature and preventing exposure to light.  If none of your locations suit both these concerns then you could consider using an insulated fermentation chamber such as a freezer, fridge, or a large cooler (if your fermenter can fit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a cooler will likely require some extra monitoring and temperature control (adding bottles of ice to offset the exothermic fermentation); using a fridge or freezer is a larger initial investment, but once converted they can be very nice to have (you can purchase a custom controller to keep the temperature perfectly suited to your fermentation type).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If temperature is fine, but light is an issue, then a simple large box can work fine as a chamber to block light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T16:54:02.373" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T16:54:02.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3435" CreationDate="2011-02-15T21:08:40.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know several brewers who use a pump made by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marchpump.com/pumps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;March&lt;/a&gt;.   You can find them at many of the larger homebrew shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T21:08:40.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3435" CreationDate="2011-02-15T21:23:24.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The March 809HS is the standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T21:23:24.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3443" CreationDate="2011-02-15T22:10:05.767" Score="7" ViewCount="760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm contemplating my next brew equipment purchase, and it's likely to be a chest freezer, either for lagering or for converting into a kegerator.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some of the things I've heard, but what are the compelling characteristics that only lagering can produce?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard it described as a clean, crisp character.  Is there either a more technical, or different way of describing this effect, and is it the sole purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2011-02-24T01:46:45.030" Title="Why should I start lagering?" Tags="|equipment|lager|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3442" CreationDate="2011-02-16T04:51:29.247" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why should you start lagering?  Because you want to make a lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a simple choice of preference, mate.  Why brew a stout?  Why brew an IPA?  Brew whatever you feel like.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the style of beer that you want to brew happens to be a Pilsner, Light Lager, Vienna Lager, Bock, Oktoberfest, Dunkel, Baltic Porter, Schwarzbier, or any variant of those (Maibock, Bohemian Pils, Dopplebock, American Lager, Marzen, Helles Bock, or Eisbock, for example), then you're better off using lagering techniques to achieve certain flavor, aroma, and mouthfeel characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While lager yeasts are generally described as producing more clean and crisp characteristics than ale yeasts, lager yeasts produce a variety of smells and tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most styles traditionally made with lager yeasts, you can usually brew a comparable beer with the appropriate ale yeast, but substituting an ale for a lager makes a pretty substantial difference.  Most lager styles are defined by flavors and aromas specific to their strains of yeast, so trying to replicate exact characteristics of specific lagers absolutely requires using a lager yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So decide what you'd like to brew.  And then decide if you want to invest in lagering equipment and are willing to spend the extra time between brewing and drinking.  Maybe you want to match a certain style, or brew an exact clone of a commercial beer, or brew identical wort with different yeasts.  But for whatever reason, if you think it's worth the time and money, or if you just enjoy the challenge of learning new techniques, then you should start lagering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2011-02-24T01:46:45.030" LastActivityDate="2011-02-24T01:46:45.030" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3445" CreationDate="2011-02-16T14:37:45.283" Score="9" ViewCount="3218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I and a few friends have dabbled with the various &quot;low carb&quot; diets.  But I've found that after a while, you don't want to break the diet, but just want a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some ways to make a beer recipe lower carb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question: Is there a way to calculate how many carbs/sugars are in the beer?  I think the fermentation process would mean that sugars that were in the beer are no longer (hence the falling gravity), but what does a FG of (say 1.010) mean in terms of how many grams of carbs/sugars in a beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2012-05-26T16:04:34.850" Title="What are some ways to make low-carb beer?" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3444" CreationDate="2011-02-16T14:55:55.493" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2011/02/04/counting-calories-in-your-homebrewed-beer/&quot;&gt;Counting Calories in your Homebrewed Beer&lt;/a&gt; has some relevant information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way is to keep to session beers with a good bit of adjuncts, so the yeast eat as many of the carbs as possible.   I made an ordinary bitter with 25% of the fermentables as honey that rings in at around 117 calories per 12oz. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-02-16T15:01:49.760" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T15:01:49.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3444" CreationDate="2011-02-16T16:03:42.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with a low OG beer, then use something like amylase enzyme to make sure that it ferments out as completely as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T16:03:42.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3448" CreationDate="2011-02-16T17:09:32.237" Score="36" ViewCount="444582" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, I actually know how to remove chlorine, but I'd like to have the pros and cons of each method spelled out.  I will post an answer and mark it as a community wiki.  Please edit it with your input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="430" LastEditDate="2011-02-16T17:20:08.640" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T00:26:22.653" Title="What are the various ways to remove chlorine/chloramine from tap water?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3447" CreationDate="2011-02-16T17:19:39.560" Score="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several ways that you can remove chlorination from your tap water before you brew with it.  This topic should help you to choose which one is right for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Off-gassing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you water contains only chlorine and not chloramine, you can let it sit for 24 hours and the chlorine will dissipate into the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Free&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Takes a long time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will not remove chloramine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Boiling&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you water contains only chlorine and not chloramine, you can drive the chlorine off by boiling the water for 15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faster than waiting for it to off-gas at room temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Requires a lot of energy and significant time to boil all of your water before you even start brewing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will not remove chloramine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Filtration&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A charcoal filter is designed to strip your tap water of chlorine and chloramine, block carbon filters are necessary for effective removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fast, nearly as fast as your free-running tap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removes both chlorine and chloramine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filters last roughly 2-6 months depending on water usage and cost between $5 and $30+ dollars to replace depending on the system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some charcoal filters need to have water running through them for about 5-10 minutes before being used when replaced. This clears out any charcoal dust that may have been generated during shipment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Chemical Adjustment&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chlorine and chloramine can be removed from your water by dissolving potassium metabisulfite into it.  One campden tablet is enough to dechlorinate 20 gallons of tap water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very fast - as soon as the K-meta is dissolved in the water and stirred, the water is dechlorinated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removes both chlorine and chloramine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Powdered potassium metabisulfite smells harsh.  If you catch a whiff of the powder when measuring it out, it stings the nostrils not unlike &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ccp-lEmoAE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sex panther&lt;/a&gt; (Anchorman pop culture reference).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T00:26:22.653" CommentCount="8" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-16T17:19:39.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-17T01:01:05.970" Score="6" ViewCount="7169" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everywhere I read it is very cautious about oxidizing your beer.  What is the worst case if your beer gets oxidized?  It tastes funny?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="975" LastEditorUserId="430" LastEditDate="2011-02-17T02:30:16.900" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T15:36:10.387" Title="What happens if a beer gets oxidized?" Tags="|beer|wort|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3449" CreationDate="2011-02-17T01:24:54.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All that happens is that it tastes bad, typically &quot;wet cardboard&quot; or &quot;sherry&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T01:24:54.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3449" CreationDate="2011-02-17T02:59:37.920" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may get a &quot;wet cardboard&quot; or &quot;sherry&quot; flavor from oxidation, if it is bad enough.  The real problem with oxidation is long-term stability.  If you plan to drink your beer soon, it may not matter much.  If you are going to age your beer for a while, you may experience staling reactions that will create these off-flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to know when you should aerate your beer (or wort) and when you should not.  You want to add oxygen to the wort for yeast growth either as you put it into the fermenter, or about 24 hours after fermentation has started (with the aid of an oxygen stone).  The only time that a home brewer really needs to avoid aeration (which leads to oxidation) is when bottling or kegging.  (It has been widely debated in the brewing community whether or not Hot Side Aeration (the aeration of your wort while mashing, sparging and boiling) contributes to staling reactions.  If you listen to the podcast linked in the comments for this answer, you will probably agree that Hot Side Aeration (HSA) is largely not a concern.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note about long-term flavor stability, is that staling reactions are sensitive to temperature.  If you have a beer that you feel has aged sufficiently, you can improve the long-term flavor stability by storing it cold.  Every ten degrees of cooling (Celsius) slows these reactions by half to one-third, so a beer that may go stale in one month at room temperature, can last up to a year or more if stored in the refrigerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that it is important to avoid staling reactions due to oxidation, but there are degrees, and the primary problem is long-term flavor stability.  You can mitigate these problems by avoiding aeration at bottling/kegging time, and storing the final product cold once it has aged enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastEditorUserId="981" LastEditDate="2011-02-17T15:36:10.387" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T15:36:10.387" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3436" CreationDate="2011-02-17T14:11:45.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the winter I ferment in a little closet off my office.  It holds a nice 66 degrees which works well for most yeasts.  I have to move down to my basement to get the cooler temps in the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1029" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2011-02-17T20:55:32.463" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T20:55:32.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3454" CreationDate="2011-02-17T14:45:10.297" Score="5" ViewCount="831" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed some 20l batches where I have kegged half in a 9l corny keg, and bottled the rest with sugar for priming (plain white sucrose). In a couple of these batches the kegged beer has been fantastic, but the bottles have a chemical/fusel-like flavor, and in one batch quinine-like bitterness. None of these flavors were apparent in the kegs, even after several weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottles have generally been stored in room temperature (20-21°C) for about two weeks after priming, and then stored cold (3-6°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause of these off-flavors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Thanks for the answers. I was pretty sure that the beer wasn't infected, but I guess I have to accept that I probably was a bit sloppy at some point :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastEditorUserId="268" LastEditDate="2011-02-21T12:48:42.123" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T12:48:42.123" Title="Off-flavors from bottle conditioning, but not kegging" Tags="|bottling|kegging|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3453" CreationDate="2011-02-17T16:18:05.383" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like poor sanitation to me.  Be sure you sanitized the bottles well, and that you boiled the sugar in some water first.  Or a contamination could have been picked up during racking with that equipment or the bottling equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T16:18:05.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3459" CreationDate="2011-02-17T17:24:09.920" Score="8" ViewCount="13288" Body="&lt;p&gt;Winemakers often add potassium metabisulphite to the finished product for two purposes: To prevent further yeast growth (so that they do not eat the remaining sugars) and as a preservative, to prevent oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since oxidation is a big concern for brewers, do any homebrewers out there add sulfites to your beers, in order to prevent oxidation and staling?  If so, what are the relevant concerns, and has the result been good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T15:51:11.673" Title="Adding potassium metabisulphite (i.e. sulfites) to prevent oxidation?" Tags="|storage|additives|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3455" CreationDate="2011-02-17T18:00:42.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine why you would do this, although I will check out the show and amend my answer if I receive enlightenment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In three years and sixty plus batches, bottled and kegged I've never had oxidized stale beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just have to be careful in handling the beer to prevent oxidation, in racking, transfer to keg or bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, you can't naturally carbonate if you prevent yeast growth. Wouldn't matter in kegging at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxidation is NOT a huge concern. It's one of those things you have to be careful of but I honestly can't imagine anyone finds this an overwhelming enough concern to add a (albeit safe) chemical to their beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T18:00:42.010" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3455" CreationDate="2011-02-17T18:08:02.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make wine and beer and I use sulfite solution for sanitizing my equipment and bottles for both beverages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't added sulfite to my beer specifically to prevent oxidation though I would imagine that the residual that's left from my sanitizing does help prevent that from happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know wine yeasts have built up a tolerance to sulfites which is why you can add sulfites to fermenting wines and be okay, it just kills off any wild yeast or other microbes that may be present. I'm not sure if beer yeasts have this tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T18:08:02.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3455" CreationDate="2011-02-17T18:17:53.743" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent 2 years experimenting with adding campden in an attempt to discern it's effects on oxidation.  I finally stopped doing it after noticing no difference.  That told me that either the campden did nothing or that I didn't have any issues for it to correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T18:17:53.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3455" CreationDate="2011-02-17T18:19:07.610" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing I use potassium metabisulfite for in brewing is the dechlorination of my tap water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use k-meta in winemaking for several purposes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To stop the naturally occurring wild yeast and bacteria on the grapes immediately after crushing.  After sulfiting the must to ~40ppm, I let it rest for about a day before pitching my cultured yeast.  This first sulfite addition doesn't map well to brewing because the wort is boiled, thus driving off any baddies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To prevent oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wine is bulk aged for years, then bottle aged for years more.  Oxidation can really take hold in that time frame.  Most beers are consumed within a few months.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wine is racked from carboy to carboy up to a half-dozen times before it's bottled.  Each racking potentially exposes the wine to oxygen.  With beer, you rack zero to two times (none if your fermentor has a spigot, once if you need to rack to a bottling vessel, twice if you secondary).  The potential oxygen exposure is much less in brewing than in winemaking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, messing with sulfites in wine is a pain.  If you don't monitor your free and bound SO2 levels, you can over-sulfite your wine, ending up with a strong rotten-egg taste, or under-sulfite it, resulting in oxidized wine.  It's a necessary hassle in winemaking, one that I'm glad I don't have to deal with in brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T18:19:07.610" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3453" CreationDate="2011-02-17T19:40:04.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using Sucrose (table sugar) to carb could be adding a wineish flavor, I'd recommend switching to corn sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what Brewchez said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T19:40:04.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2692" CreationDate="2011-02-18T15:02:10.333" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cwcrate.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.cwcrate.com&lt;/a&gt; - there you can get some pretty cool plastic beer cases.&#xA;They hold up really well too, I've been using mine for quite some time now and there no way they are going to fall apart.  What's cool about them is that you can just take your case out in the yard, open it up and pour a bag of ice in and you're all set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:  cwcrate.com is out of business as of september 2013&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1045" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T12:29:55.490" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T12:29:55.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3463" CreationDate="2011-02-18T17:39:44.960" Score="13" ViewCount="46751" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is torrified wheat and in what styles is it used?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any restriction or special procedures you need to follow to when using torrified wheat?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you substitute torrified wheat with malted wheat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T06:16:41.310" Title="What is torrified wheat?" Tags="|ingredients|wheat|grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3462" CreationDate="2011-02-18T17:52:56.197" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torrified Wheat has been heat treated (kind of &quot;popped&quot;)to break the cellular structure, allowing for rapid hydration and allows malt enzymes to more completely attack the starches and protein. Torrified Wheat can be used in place of raw wheat in Belgian style Wit-Beers, also very good for adding body and head, especially to English ales.  Since it has not been malted, you can't sub it for malted wheat.  Because it's not malted, it needs to be mashed with a diastatic malt in order to convert the starches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T17:52:56.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-18T18:11:29.300" Score="4" ViewCount="5597" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my 4th batch (I'm new), but first Belgian ale.  Kit from here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/flat-tire.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/flat-tire.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also did another batch at the same time (different kit) and it seems fine and all my batches up to this point have been ok.  It's been 7 days and I transfered it to a secondary fermenter (cause it says it has heavy sediment and trying to clear some of that out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways it smells like someone took a crap in a dirty gym sock and dropped that into my beer :(  That indicates it has spoiled right?  Is there any way I can recover this or do I just throw the entire thing out?  Seems such a waste to dump the entire thing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="975" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:40:14.897" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T12:29:02.980" Title="help: Beer smells bad" Tags="|beer|troubleshooting|aroma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3464" CreationDate="2011-02-18T18:25:50.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which yeast did you use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That certainly sounds like some sort of souring organisms (bacteria, wild yeast) have gotten in there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to prevent future problems with a more rigorous cleaning &amp;amp; sanitation regimen, but you might also want to replace your plastic equipment that touches your beer/wort post-boil.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i'm lazy and an optimist, so if it were me, i'd probably let it sit for a couple of months and see if the foulness diminished &amp;amp; it tastes any good.   But i also like sour beers (and have enough fermentors to lose one for a while).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-02-18T18:55:58.693" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T18:55:58.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-19T00:48:07.023" Score="0" ViewCount="1348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made some good whiskey and have a litre soaking in a cup or two of home made oak chips (an old coffee table which I planed all of the varnish off first then chipped, haha). I didn't sanatize or char the chips, will this work or make any difference to the whiskey and how long should I leave it to soak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks...Motuiti Lad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1050" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T03:01:59.863" Title="Soaking whiskey in oak chips" Tags="|whiskey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-02-19T16:53:41.400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3467" CreationDate="2011-02-19T03:01:59.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you live in the US, you should probably be careful about admitting on the internet that you're distilling anything.   the ATF wants their forms filled out and their fees paid.   and they're not afraid to put an exclamation point on how they feel about things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;that being said, i doubt that sanitization would be a problem with a distilled spirit, because there isn't much that can live in &quot;barrel strength&quot; alcohol.   as i understand things, the char is largely a flavor component, so you may be missing out on some flavor complexity that you might otherwise get (chocolate, coconut, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as far as time, that's up to personal preference.  if it works like beer, more time on less oak is going to bring out &quot;better&quot; (more complex) flavor characteristics (obviously, up to a point), while less time on more oak will give you more one-dimensional oak flavor (lots of vanilla, and a little &quot;woodsiness&quot;).  some scotch whisky spends 30 years in contact with oak.   it really comes down to how long you can stand to go without drinking it, i imagine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T03:01:59.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3470" CreationDate="2011-02-19T20:20:04.590" Score="13" ViewCount="9107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know it stops the enzymes from breaking down any more sugar, but is there any other point to it?  Will I notice any difference in the final product if I just got straight to sparging?  Also, if my mash passes the iodine test, wouldn't that say there's no more starches to break down anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-02-20T13:58:27.950" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T22:44:42.490" Title="What is the point of mashing out?" Tags="|techniques|mash|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3469" CreationDate="2011-02-20T13:57:39.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think in the homebrew scale a mashout isn't always called for.  Namely because the sparge to boil time is fairly quick.  Compared to what may take much longer when brewing at the 7bbl or more level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mashing out will lock in the mash profile you have achieved during the mash.  Despite a positive test with iodine, there can still be some complex sugar/starch molecules remaining that will continue to convert if allowed to.  This may lead to thinner beer, or suffice it to say, maybe not the mouthfeel/body your initial mash process was gearing towards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I have found (along with some brewing friends) mashout does tend to increase efficiency a bit.  I think this is due partly because the higher temp lowers viscosity which allows things to flow a bit better; hence extracting a little more sugar.  Also if you are recirculating your mash with some more advanced equipment (like a pump) then mash out temps and the circulating wort will definitely increase efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these increases necessary and noticeable.... It depends on each brewers system and taste thresholds.  Certainly it doesn't hurt to give it a try on some back to back brews and to some side by sides with the same recipe too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a batch sparger I don't normally go to mash out temps.  But I am currently rebuilding my set up with a pump and I might get into doing it with the use of a direct fired mash setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-06-06T22:44:42.490" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T22:44:42.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1551" CreationDate="2011-02-20T16:30:09.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize that this is an old topic, however, I have a cream ale that I recently bottled about a month ago and I have been enjoying. Last night I serve it to a friend and and he said he tasted a faint taste of cloves. I missed it. The thing I found in common was that we each brewed with safale #5. Have you used that yeast since? If so, what do you think of your brews since?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1054" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T16:30:09.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1551" CreationDate="2011-02-20T17:05:12.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely that it's an infection.  Time will tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-02-20T18:19:04.497" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T18:19:04.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3469" CreationDate="2011-02-20T17:12:45.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, the iodine test is unreliable and doesn't really tell you all that much.  There can still be starches in there, or you might get a false reading, and it doesn't tell you anything about the fermentability of the wort you've produced.  Second, although raising the temp might reduce viscosity, experiments with cold (room temp) sparging have show equal efficiency, so the reduced viscosity does not lead to higher efficiency.  Raising the temp for a mashout does usually have the side effect of increasing efficiency by providing a longer mash time and a higher temp so that the alpha amylase will break down more starches into long chain dextrins.  While this will increase efficiency, it can sometimes lead to less fermentability since the beta amylase that breaks those long chains down has already been denatured.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you fly sparge, it might not be a bad idea to try a mashout to see if the fermentability of your wort lessens (assuming you've been having over attenuation issues).  If you batch sparge, you get to a boil much sooner, which obviously will denature enzymes.  In that case, a true mashout isn't needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T17:12:45.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3477" CreationDate="2011-02-21T14:11:06.803" Score="4" ViewCount="2358" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does the temperature at which you do dry hopping effect the aroma of the beer? Is there any effect? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T06:54:56.017" Title="What is the effect of temperature on dry hopping?" Tags="|temperature|dry-hop|dry-hopping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2692" CreationDate="2011-02-21T15:02:34.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done the math and have determined that I can make ten wooden cases that each hold 24 twelve ounce bottles from a single 4x8 sheet of 3/8&quot; plywood and a single 4x8 sheet of 1/8&quot; masonite hardboard.  Tools required:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circular saw (or table saw with a fence extension &amp;amp; large out-feed table)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Router&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dovetail jig (if you want to dovetail the corner joints)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue &amp;amp; clamps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll post pics &amp;amp; plans after I whip up some of these sometime in the not-too-distant future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...actually, I just &lt;a href=&quot;http://realbeer.com/spencer/beercase.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;found this online&lt;/a&gt;, and it's almost exactly what I had in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T15:02:34.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3475" CreationDate="2011-02-21T16:43:32.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The warmer the beer when you dry hop the faster the hop oils are drawn out of the hops providing aroma.  You can cut down the amount of days needed for dry hopping by doing it at room temp as opposed to refrigeration temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vinnie Cilurzo from Russian River Brewer eludes to the benefits of warmer dry hopping temperatures in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/6351/doubleIPA.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Brew a Double IPA&quot;&lt;/a&gt; published in the July/August 2009 issue of Zymurgy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="687" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T18:03:11.710" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T18:03:11.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3475" CreationDate="2011-02-22T13:38:40.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suspect that while temperature plays a role, it might not be as drastic as one thinks.  Many things in the world happen faster when heat is applied (or in this case when things are warmer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is very little emperical evidence of someone dry hopping for 5 days at room temp vs 5 days at cellar temps and reported a noticable (or dissapointing difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer is destined to get chilled anyway, why not just dry hop a little longer and get the chilling and subsequent clearing that comes with lower temps started sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T13:38:40.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3464" CreationDate="2011-02-22T13:50:12.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knowing now that you used Nottingham yeast, it sounds contaminated to me.  But as others have suggested I normally would let it ferment out to finish and then taste it.  You could even test bottle a couple let them carb up while the rest sits in a secondary container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast fermentation can put out a lot of weird aromas, so its best to not jump the gun until things are done.  Your palette and the taste test are your best tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T13:50:12.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3483" CreationDate="2011-02-22T14:35:54.960" Score="4" ViewCount="2057" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;how do you calculate the correct amount and temperature of water and to offset the amount and temperature of the grains?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps there is a formula or rule of thumb that I am missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T20:02:28.120" Title="Calculating Amout and Temperature of Water For Mashing" Tags="|mash|temperature|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3485" CreationDate="2011-02-22T14:39:31.980" Score="4" ViewCount="15696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did my first all grain batch last night and went way over the desired 150s range on the temperature of my mash. It ended up being around 170f. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What effects will there be from mashing at 170 (or higher)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2018-11-03T14:12:04.973" Title="Mashing at too High of a Temperature" Tags="|mash|temperature|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3480" CreationDate="2011-02-22T14:47:55.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter16-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Palmer, in How to Brew&lt;/a&gt;, has some formulae (though that doesn't really work for the beer i just brewed...  it's about 10 degrees short).   &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter16-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;In a previous page&lt;/a&gt;, he mentions getting your strike water to 10-15F warmer than your target mash temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use ProMash, and just punch in the strike temperature i'm aiming for, the temperature of the grain, and the amount of water and grain i'm using, and its strike temperature calculator does the work for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T14:54:05.343" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T14:54:05.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3480" CreationDate="2011-02-22T15:39:18.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that software and calculations can get you close, but not exact.  There's too much variability in each brewer's system.  You kind of have to get a feel for your brew system over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, take out as many variables as you can.  Always start with your grain at the same temp.  Always start with your mash tun at the same temp before pre-heating it.  If you're pre-heating your tun, always do so with the same amount of water at the same temp for the same amount of time before doughing-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, keep good notes so you can look back over previous batches to see how much total grain you used, how much strike water, what temp the strike water was, and what mash temp you hit.  Over time, you'll get a good feel for how far over your target mash temp your strike water needs to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T15:39:18.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3481" CreationDate="2011-02-22T15:46:11.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At temperatures this high, you will likely end up with a very sweet beer.  You went high enough to halt much of the enzymatic activity that converts the complex starches into the simple(ish) maltose that the yeast like to munch on.  You'll still get some fermentation, just expect this beer to be pretty sweet, cloying even.  It should be drinkable, but it won't be great.  I'd call it a learning experience and move on to my next batch.  Don't dump it, though.  See it through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt;.  Note that the online version is the outdated first edition and Palmer has now changed his mind on some of the stuff in there.  I recommend picking up a copy of the third edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T15:46:11.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3481" CreationDate="2011-02-22T15:55:49.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If in theory all the enzyme for starch to sugar conversion were denatured, you'd have a large pot of solublized starch on you hands.  There was likely some conversion however, but its hard to tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest concern with too much non-converted starch is contamination.  Brewing yeast won't go after the starch very efficiently.  However, most wild yeasts and certainly bacteria will be able to use that as a food source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite having used sanitizer things are not sterile and a contaminate could take hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This screw up will be an interesting experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T13:41:57.683" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T13:41:57.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3481" CreationDate="2011-02-22T16:30:01.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on how long you were at that high a temp.  If it was for the entire mash, you likely have a pretty unfermentable wort.  But it takes 20 min. or more to denature enzymes, so it may not be too bad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T16:30:01.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1979" CreationDate="2011-02-22T19:06:03.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to ask yourself &quot;Minimum mash time for what?&quot;  You can get pretty full conversion in about 20-25 min.  A recent experiment on Basic Brewing Radio concluded that a beer mash for 45 min. was better tasting than one mashed for 20, and a beer mashed for 60 was better than one mashed for 45.  For maximum fermentability, a 90 min. (or longer) mash works better.  So when you ask what the minimum is, you have to take into account the results you want to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T19:06:03.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2011-02-22T19:39:49.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems like an appropriate place to drop a link to a well produced, if not slightly awkward :), instructional video &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMQ1L9iVvz4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMQ1L9iVvz4&lt;/a&gt; that walks you through the starter process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T19:39:49.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3481" CreationDate="2011-02-22T23:07:05.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an out of control mash.  Beer came out just fine.  Didn't have quite as much body as that recipe normally does.  Target mash was 152, and ended up in 170s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T23:07:05.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3497" CreationDate="2011-02-23T12:40:23.437" Score="2" ViewCount="8441" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just listened to the brew strong episode from nov 29 2010. In it the hosts talk about not boiling LME but instead just adding it straight to the fermentor, or really late in the boil. I have been boiling mine for the full 60 min as instructed by my LHBS.  Question is.   &lt;br/&gt; -What is the point to not boiling the LME for the full time?  &lt;br/&gt; -Can this be done with any LME? I think my LHBS buys in bulk and re-packages (it comes in a plastic tub with thier label but still says it is coopers) &lt;br/&gt; -How will this effect the beer overall in regards to color, clarity, taste etc? &lt;br/&gt; -In regard to these questions, does it change if I do a partial (2.5 gal) boil or a full boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T01:55:17.167" Title="Is it best to add LME late in the boil?" Tags="|extract|late-addition|full-boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="268" CreationDate="2011-02-23T12:52:54.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made an Imperial Stout @ 9.2% and to steal Denny Cons term &quot;dry beaned&quot; one gallon of it onto 15.3 grams of coarsly ground beans for 2 days. The coffee flavor was very pronounced, and after 3 weeks was still strong. Probably helped that this was such a robust stout but it was still very potent coffee. maybe half this amount of coffe or only leave on secondary for a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastEditorUserId="913" LastEditDate="2011-03-04T13:49:16.470" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T13:49:16.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3498" CreationDate="2011-02-23T12:54:11.400" Score="4" ViewCount="1364" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I was thinking about how I want to make my bourbon oak stout, I was thinking of how to soak the oak in bourbon.  I wanted to get the bourbon into the wood, for the purpose of putting it into my beer where it would get the bourbon out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason to do this?  It just sounds better than pouring a small amount of bourbon directly in, but I can't think of how it's different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I've thought some more about this.  I've had bourbon barrel aged beers, and the taste of Bourbon can be extreme.  What doesn't make sense is that there can't be that much bourbon liquid contained in the wood itself, let alone brought into the beer aged in it.  So does the wood somehow soak up flavor, allowing you to get the flavor without the alcohol and water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-02-23T19:47:04.520" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T19:47:04.520" Title="Is there a difference between soaking oak in bourbon and just adding the bourbon straight into secondary?" Tags="|oak|bourbon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="254" CreationDate="2011-02-23T13:00:35.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mr. Malty has a iphone app for yeast pitching rates. Available at www.mrmalty.com Cost is $4.99.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T13:00:35.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="86" CreationDate="2011-02-23T13:09:04.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the IBU calculator in Beersmith. Available at www.beersmith.com. the trail version will let you use it for 14 days, and the whole program is only $19.99. It lets you change hop types and times and automatically calculates your IBUS based on those choices. It also calculates for boil size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T13:09:04.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3492" CreationDate="2011-02-23T13:24:50.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i think the general consensus is to oak your beer and just pour some bourbon straight into the fermenter, so you can get the balance that you're looking for.     on the other hand, about the only harm i can see is the whisky extracting unwanted tannins while it soaks.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T13:24:50.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3490" CreationDate="2011-02-23T14:17:36.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are doing full boil then the main reason to add LME late is because of color. LME already tends to be darker than DME or all-grain wort. Boiling it for a long time just makes it darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing partial boil then adding LME late is going to change your hop utilization. The gravity of a partial boil is higher than a full boil, and hop utilization is lower in high-gravity wort. By moving some or all of your LME to late in the boil, you lower the gravity for most of the boil and increase your hop utilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't think of any reason why you couldn't do this with any LME. If you're using pre-hopped LME then your process will be different, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T14:17:36.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3490" CreationDate="2011-02-23T14:38:58.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point behind adding the LME late in the boil or straight to the fermenter is that the sugars in the LME will undergo the Maillard reaction during the boil.  The gravity also affects the hop utilization rate.  You need SOME sugars in the wort to isomerize the hop alpha acids, but the stronger the wort the less a given hop addition will bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipes are designed to be boiled full-volume with all the extract/sugars in them.  If you full-boil, adding the extract late will probably give you results that are a little lighter in color, and a bit more bitter than the style/recipe would lead you to believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you partial-boil and throw all the LME in for all 60 minutes, more Maillard Reaction and less hop bittering will occur.  Darker, sweeter beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partial boil with SOME of the LME in for 60 minutes and the rest in for about 5-15 minutes (I've seen differing references): You will likely get something similar to a full-boil, full-extract brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partial boil with ALL of the LME in the late stages of boil: It is my understanding that the hops won't extract until there are some sugars in the wort.  Translation: No LME, no/significantly less hop extraction (but I've never verified this if anyone can set me straight, please comment and I'll edit) .  Result: Lighter, sweeter beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I typically use 2 of the 3 pound (1.5 kilo) cans in most of my beers.  I'll add while bringing up the temperature to boiling, and add the second one at about 15 minutes left on the boil, typically wherever there is a hop addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="106" LastEditDate="2011-02-24T14:28:39.923" LastActivityDate="2011-02-24T14:28:39.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3492" CreationDate="2011-02-23T15:38:30.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason for soaking the oak in Bourbon is to sanitize the oak.  The Bourbon will kill any bacteria on the oak chips so you have less risk of batch contamination.  Then later add more Bourbon to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2011-02-23T16:21:03.243" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T16:21:03.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3492" CreationDate="2011-02-23T16:09:18.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a recipe for Bourbon Vanilla Imperial Porter that's very popular.  I add the bourbon post fermentation, pre bottling or kegging.  I pour 4 2 oz. samples of the beer and add a different measured amount of bourbon to each.  After tasting them all and picking the one I like best, I scale that amount of bourbon up to the batch size.  I find this makes an easy, controllable way to get just the right amount of bourbon in the batch.  So, I'd say do the oak and bourbon in 2 separate steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T16:09:18.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="86" CreationDate="2011-02-23T16:13:08.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to figure hop substitutions is the use the Homebrew Bittering Units calculation.  simply multiply the hops AA by the amount called for.  For example, 1 oz. of 8% AA hops equals .5 oz. of 16% AA hops.  There's no need to involve utilization at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T16:13:08.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-23T17:21:16.287" Score="3" ViewCount="3726" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pumpkin Ale&#xA;First patch bottled in Nov... perfect. But over time the head is growing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottled second patch, same recipe, bottled two weeks ago. Opened the first bottle and lost half to the sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First batch is being stored at about 55 degrees. Second batch being stored at 65 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I correct this 'excessive headiness'... ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1063" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T17:51:37.970" Title="What to do about over carbonated bottled brew?" Tags="|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3501" CreationDate="2011-02-23T17:51:37.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first step to correcting it is to determine why it's happening.  There are generally 2 causes.  Either bottling too early, before fermentation is complete, or an infection can cause those symptoms.  If the beer that was bottled previously still tastes good and like it used to, it's likely the former.  If the beer is starting to taste sour or &quot;funky&quot;, it's likely the latter.  In the first case, simply give it more time in the fermenter.  3-4 weeks minimum before bottling is the general ROT.  If it's an infection, carefully check your cleaning and sanitation routines.  For the beer that's already gushing, you can try to very slightly pry the cap open to release pressure, then reseal it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T17:51:37.970" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3504" CreationDate="2011-02-23T19:38:29.580" Score="6" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;What reaction is happening in the wort to cause darkening?  Maltose for example doesn't caramelize until 365F.  Maillard reactions are another source of non-enzymatic browning, but they require low moisture, alkaline conditions and occur at 310F (on average).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why does my wort get darker as it boils?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T21:11:50.443" Title="What causes wort darkening in the kettle?" Tags="|wort|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3503" CreationDate="2011-02-23T20:29:11.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite the Wikipedia page for Maillard Reactions currently saying that Maillard Reactions require low moisture, alkaline conditions, and temperatures well above the boiling point of water, Maillard reactions can happen outside of those conditions.  For instance, tanning lotions utilize a Maillard reaction, and I'm fairly certain women wouldn't use them if they had to heat their skin over 300°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the phrasing about low moisture, alkalinity, and heat applies only to carmelization, a specific type of Maillard reaction.  Furthermore, the source that the Wikipedia article cites in that paragraph, &lt;a href=&quot;http://albumen.conservation-us.org/library/c20/reilly1982a.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://albumen.conservation-us.org/library/c20/reilly1982a.html&lt;/a&gt;, is about Maillard reactions in egg-white photo prints, and has nothing to do with high-temperature reactions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, wort darkens due to a combination of Maillard Reactions and help from concentration of the wort due to boiling off some of the water volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus points if someone fixes the Wikipedia page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2011-02-23T21:11:50.443" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T21:11:50.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2223" CreationDate="2011-02-24T01:37:39.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed about 10 all-grain batches on my induction cooktop, and have found it to be vastly superior to anything else I've used.  These things are made to boil water quickly, and they do.  I've seen several types of induction cooktops, and all of them had plenty of temperature settings (like 30).  Of course they're very efficient, but another big pro is you can actually wrap a blanket or something around your mash tun to heat it faster and keep it at temp during the rest phase.  No, they don't work on aluminum, but if you're looking for the ultimate setup, why use that anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1065" LastActivityDate="2011-02-24T01:37:39.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3509" CreationDate="2011-02-24T14:39:35.403" Score="14" ViewCount="6153" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some very helpful descriptions I've found of people describing the taste of various hops, but I've found that my personal taste can be quite different.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to be able to isolate the aroma and flavor of a particular hop, without brewing a separate or even half batch for each one.  Has anyone tried something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T16:15:56.453" Title="How can I learn the distinctive taste of various hops?" Tags="|taste|hops|learning|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="254" CreationDate="2011-02-24T14:52:39.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewpal.info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Pal&lt;/a&gt; is an excellent program for storing recipes and doing some calculations for things like IBU and gravity, which is what I use it for.  I purchased it the day after I bought my iPod, just because I wanted to support homebrew apps, turns out I love it and use it on every brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It allows easy email export of BeerXML, which makes storing recipes off the iPod easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also $0.99, which is not a good reflection of its value, I'd pay $4.99.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-02-24T15:15:59.050" LastActivityDate="2011-02-24T15:15:59.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:22:58.510" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to train your palate is through practice.  You can read about, theorize upon, meditate over taste descriptions, but to really get to know them, you have to practice.  You can learn the aroma of the different hops by smelling some in your hands repeatedly until you can blindly identify each one.  That's a helpful practice, but to really get to know how they affect beer, you have to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy different commercial beers, but that's not ideal because single-hop brews aren't very common, especially among hop-forward beer.  Also, commercial beers are designed to give an overall experience, so the malt character will tend to be strong.  And you won't be able to find several brews where the only variable is the flavor/aroma hop used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the best thing you can do is brew small test batches where the only variable is the hops.  What I plan to do is mash up 5 gallons of 1.040 pale ale wort, then brew five 1 gallon batches, using the same bittering hop in all of them, but changing the flavor/aroma hop across each one.  Of course, this requires five 1-gallon jugs to ferment in, but it should prove to be a fun and informative experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-02-24T15:22:58.510" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:33:04.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try to just make a hop tea, either using a coffee press or just stirring it into the boiling water and letting the hops settle out.  I think that should give you a good idea of the hop's aroma and flavor without any other hops or malts covering it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, just boil 2 quarts of water and add your hops.  After 10 minutes, pour off a quart, which would give you an idea of the aroma and flavor.  Boil the rest for another 50 minutes to see how much bitterness they would contribute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using these two methods you get to experience the hops alone, no malt or yeast characteristics to get in the way and confuse your palate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2011-02-24T15:39:46.937" LastActivityDate="2011-02-24T15:39:46.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3512" CreationDate="2011-02-24T18:12:01.890" Score="1" ViewCount="2900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased a second hand (hence no instructions) pressure barrel keg that has an s30 adaptor that fits a Hambleton Bard cylinder (which I have also bought).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I actually use this though?  Do I screw it on and leave it there or just give a blast for a second?  How is the pressure controlled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T10:19:48.297" Title="How to use a Hambleton Bard s30 cylinder?" Tags="|carbonation|pressure|gas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3511" CreationDate="2011-02-25T01:33:36.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used one myself, but the cylinder is at 800 psi.  So you'd only want to give it short burps, especially on more full keg.  Once you thread the cylinder onto the S30 fitting, continue turning to start gas flow and unscrew to stop the flow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure would then be manually-controlled, like a keg pump (minus spoiling your beer).  Several manufacturers do make a version with a regulator and a short hose that you connect to a gas fitting (ball-lock and pin-lock like on the top of a Corny keg), but I don't think the fitting on the regulator accepts your S30 cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2011-02-25T01:40:59.670" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T01:40:59.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3516" CreationDate="2011-02-25T01:59:41.830" Score="2" ViewCount="2114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was checking the gravity on my fermenting beer and took the top off my bucket to do so.  When reattaching the airlock, the black rubber gasket on the bucket fell in.  I tried to fish it out with a sanitized spoon but was unsuccessful.  Will this affect my beer in the end?  I'm about half a week in to a 2-week fermentation and the active fermentation is done and that's why I was checking the gravity.  It's actually at the final gravity the kit says it should be at.  How should I get the airlock to stay in place for the remaining week and a half?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="920" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T01:52:35.757" Title="Airlock gasket on primary fermenter fell in when reinserting airlock" Tags="|airlock|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3513" CreationDate="2011-02-25T06:04:24.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably haven't spoiled your beer, but it sounds like you're not out of the woods yet.  It might have a minimal effect on your beer, and if you already put the lid back on, you're probably fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, if you sanitized your bucket properly, then the inside of the lid was all sanitized as well, and I would assume that would take care of the gasket.  If the design of your bucket causes surfaces of the gasket to be on the outside of the bucket, then you're at a higher risk of having infected your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, since the fermentation was finished, the beer is a fairly hostile environment for bugs.  The higher the alcohol content and IBUs, the tougher it is for uglies to grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer could, however, pick up rubbery or chemical-like flavors from the gasket and anything that was on the gasket.  Again, don't fret; it's probably fine.  But you should definitely consider cleaning and sanitizing a proper tool for fishing out the gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned, hopefully you realized that you needed to keep a lid on the beer, whether you have a gasket or not.  Leaving your beer exposed to air for any significant length of time &lt;strong&gt;drastically&lt;/strong&gt; increases the odds of ruining the beer.  If you immediately covered it, then it's most likely fine.  The gasket shouldn't really be critical - as long as air can't flow over your beer, it'll be reasonably safe over a time period of only a week or two.  (Because let's be honest, given the number of ways you've already potentially ruined your beer, this is the least of your concerns.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, if you were careful throughout the entire situation, you probably have nothing to worry about.  If you did happen to get unlucky, you should be able to tell by bottling (or kegging) time, so be sure to sample a bit to make sure it's not infected before proceeding.  In the meantime, RDWHAHB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T06:04:24.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3511" CreationDate="2011-02-25T10:19:48.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't control the pressure with any accuracy, as it's a case of screw it in, give it a squirt and then unscrew it. If you put too much in, then the pressure relief valve should allow the excess to escape. One thing you'll want to do, as your cask is second hand, is replace the seals, especially the one on the pressure relief valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to control the pressure with any accuracy, then you need to get a proper gas setup, like the Widget World stuff -&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewcentre.co.uk/categories.asp?cID=143&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewcentre.co.uk/categories.asp?cID=143&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T10:19:48.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3513" CreationDate="2011-02-25T16:07:48.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the club!  Almost every brewer I know has dropped something in the fermenter at some point.  I say leave it there.  It will cause no off flavors (if the rubber wasn't inert it wouldn't have been used on the fermenter).  At this point you're more likely to cause problems by trying to remove it than if you just left it where it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-02-25T16:53:01.083" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T16:53:01.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3513" CreationDate="2011-02-25T20:16:13.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have a glass carboy for secondary, I recommend going to secondary right now. Since the primary fermentation is done and it's reached it's final gravity, there is no harm in starting secondary early, and you need to have some sort of airlock to prevent infection. Siphon into the carboy and you should be able to dig around through the yeast and gunk to find the gasket (it'll probably be messy). But I wouldn't recommend trying to fish out the gasket because it has probably sunk to the bottom, but you can't just leave it in there since you need to secure an airlock. Let me know if this bucket is your only container and i'll try to think of other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T20:16:13.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3525" CreationDate="2011-02-26T18:11:38.483" Score="2" ViewCount="599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded from relying on gravity to a pump to transfer wort.   After the first use (an IPA),  the thermoplastic tubing that I used has a distinctive smell that I attribute to the hot hop resins.   Is an off smell in the tubing likely to contribute to off flavors or aromas in future brews?   I have cleaned it twice by pumping hot oxyclean through it, and am currently soaking the tubes in hot oxyclean, but the scent remains.   Is there a better way to clean it, so that it won't have this odor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T03:13:28.683" Title="Bad smell in pump tubing" Tags="|off-flavor|tubing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3520" CreationDate="2011-02-27T00:45:56.183" Score="4" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of some sort of measurement for the hoppiness of a beer?  Late hop additions don't add much to the bitterness (IBUs) but they can add tons of hop flavor.  Is there some way to quantify this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T12:54:00.490" Title="Quantifying the level of hoppiness in a beer" Tags="|beer|hops|flavor|calculations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3519" CreationDate="2011-02-27T01:19:32.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there currently is no scale to quantify and measure the amount of hop flavor and aroma in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essential hop oils in beer provide this hoppy flavor and aroma, so you might think that if the amount of essential hop oil in beer could be accurately measured, then such a scale for non-bitter hop quantity would exist.  However, chemists have not yet identified such a relationship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of articles that discuss this in more detail, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.1/tinseth.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means for the homebrewer is that your only available gauge is experience sampling brews in which you know the hop schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T01:19:32.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3518" CreationDate="2011-02-27T01:50:29.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try StarSan or B-Brite. I pretty much stick to a bleach (unscented) and water solution, and use a potassium metabisulfate and water solution rinse. If you still have an odor after using bleach, I'm not sure there's anything else you could do to get rid of it (could be the plastic producing it and not something organic) but any nasties should be well-dead after bleach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="476" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T01:50:29.740" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-27T01:50:29.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3513" CreationDate="2011-02-27T01:52:35.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gasket should be fine if it was sanitized with the lid. I'd rack off to secondary as soon as the beer's ready though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="476" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T01:52:35.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2011-02-27T01:55:00.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in isolating the hops, brew a mild tea of a couple of pellets and let your nose and taste buds dig into it. Use a tea ball for the hops or a small bit of cheesecloth to ensure you're not picking shredded hops out of your teeth. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="476" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T01:55:00.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1031" CreationDate="2011-02-27T13:10:47.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew over a fire pit. With four 15 gallon kegs converted to pots, I brew 20 gallons at a time.&#xA;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sites.google.com/site/firepitbrewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sites.google.com/site/firepitbrewing&lt;/a&gt; for details and pics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Martin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1074" LastEditorDisplayName="user1074" LastEditDate="2011-02-27T13:43:01.627" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T13:43:01.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3518" CreationDate="2011-02-27T16:18:33.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Run hot water through the tubing and smell the water.  If the water smells like hops then you might want to clean the tubing more.  I bet you won't really notice any significant contribution of hop aroma or flavor to your next beer.  Don't waste your time or worry about it too much.  I don't bother excessively cleaning my tubing.  Plastic fermentors often still smell like beer.  But as long as you keep making beer, the new beer tends to win out in overall aroma/flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T16:18:33.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3527" CreationDate="2011-02-27T19:36:56.003" Score="6" ViewCount="4706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always added my grain to my MLT cooler first, then dumped the strike water on top (I don't have a sparge arm). I calculate my strike temps based on the grain temp and initial cooler temp, so I usually hit my mash temp without problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason to add the strike water first, then my grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T17:52:52.600" Title="Should the grain or strike water be added to the mash tun first?" Tags="|mash|all-grain|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3526" CreationDate="2011-02-27T21:14:27.997" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding your strike water first helps to reduce dough balls.  If you add water to the grain/flour, at first the grain-to-water ratio will be very high, the flour will suck up the water, and you'll need to stir more to break up the dough balls.  If you add the grain to the water, then you can stir after every few pounds and avoid getting dough balls at all.  Aside from that, it's whatever works best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T21:14:27.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3526" CreationDate="2011-02-27T22:01:48.720" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really makes no difference beyond personal preference and which way works best for your brewing system.  Some people worry about denaturing enzymes by adding grain to water, but that takes 15-20 min. so it's really not an issue here.  I add water to the cooler then stir as I pour in the grain.  It's very effective at equalizing the temp and preventing doughballs.  But I know people who do it the other way around and it works fine for them.  As with many things in brewing, you should experiment and find out what works best for you and your equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T22:01:48.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1031" CreationDate="2011-02-27T22:06:19.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a garage brewer.  I have a large sliding door in the front of the garage and 3 windows in the back near my burner.  When everything is open, I get great cross ventilation.  I recently installed base cabinets, a SS sink, a water heater and other improvements so it's a very comfortable brewing environment.  AFAIAC, the biggest plus is a drain in the center of the floor.  The floor slopes 1/8 per ft. down to the drain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7O3F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T22:06:19.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-27T22:37:44.940" Score="3" ViewCount="1740" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im a first time brewer and everything was going good until i realized i did not take a before reading.....    Is there still a way to get an average alcohol reading???  THANKS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1075" LastEditorDisplayName="user1075" LastEditDate="2011-02-27T22:50:23.913" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T19:40:41.173" Title="Is there a way to get an average alcohol reading if I forgot to take a before reading??? " Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3530" CreationDate="2011-02-27T23:47:08.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get a pretty good estimate from a number of online programs, I prefer &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beer calculus&lt;/a&gt;. Since you're a first time brewer I assume you are using an extract kit which means you don't have to worry about mash efficiency, and the calculation should be pretty straight forward. Enter in your ingredients to estimate the initial gravity and you can measure the final gravity yourself once the beer is done. You can also input measured gravities into beer calculus and have it do the calculations for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This won't be 100% accurate but it should give you a pretty good idea of your alcohol levels. Beyond that you would need a refractometer to get an accurate abv, which you probably don't need to invest in as a first time brewer. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T23:47:08.747" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3530" CreationDate="2011-02-27T23:49:15.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a refractometer and a hydrometer, you can get an estimate by comparing FG readings between the two, as in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2906/can-i-retroactively-deterimine-my-og-with-a-refractometer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, you'll have to calculate the OG from your recipe.  If you used extract, and know your final volume, this is pretty straightforward.  If you did a partial mash, rather than solely using extracts, you would have to estimate an efficiency.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3328/original-gravity-calculate-or-measure/3329#3329&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; answer for values to use for extracts or use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/gravity.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online brewing calculator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T23:49:15.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2011-02-28T02:21:25.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a turkey burner and then bought a Blichmann after realizing how flimsy the turkey fryer was. When I got the Blichmann, the comparison was obvious. Here's a picture of both the cheap turkey fryer and the Blichmann side by side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/jwynia/5333294931/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/jwynia/5333294931/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Blichmann is considerably more sturdy than any of the turkey fryers I've ever seen. It distributes the flame across the entire area instead of just a ball of flame at the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth every penny to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T02:21:25.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3541" CreationDate="2011-02-28T15:05:29.530" Score="7" ViewCount="11607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't paid much attention to carbonation up until recently, because my method hasn't changed in the three years I've brewed, and it's perfectly acceptable to me.  My friend says that every homebrew he tastes, which is entirely from myself and the three other brewers in our club, seems &quot;over carbonated&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After much discussion, he agrees that he thinks this may be related to the size of the bubbles in the beer.  I took one of my beers that had been sitting in the fridge for far longer than most, and noticed that although it was starting to decrease in quality, the carbonation bubbles were quite small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything I look up is either super detailed chemist stuff that is hard for me to understand, let alone apply, or what appears to be people making stuff up based on one or two experiences.  Does anyone know the effect of age, temperature, or anything else on carbonation bubble size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T19:35:21.600" Title="What factors affect carbonation bubble size?" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2011-02-28T15:14:03.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature, FG of the beer (density), the amount of CO2 dissolved in the beer, and nucleation sites (in this case, your friend's tongue) would be the technical factors in play regarding bubble size.  Worrying about bubble size is a bit silly though.  When I carbonate a beer, I force carb it to taste based on the beer I'm making.  If you're bottle conditioning, simply use less or more priming sugar to adjust your carbonation.  You aren't going to be able to change the size of bubbles, just the amount of carbonation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T15:14:03.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2011-02-28T16:25:57.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bubbles will decrease in size over time, due to the various bits of particulate matter (nucleation sites) dropping out of suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T16:25:57.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3537" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-28T17:19:33.853" Score="5" ViewCount="11358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am BRAND NEW to home-brewing having just got a kit yesterday.  The nice gent at the supply store gave us so much information that my head was swimming when we left.  After reading web sites and &quot;How To Brew&quot; first edition, I am still confused on where in the brewing process the carboy comes into play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first brew I will be making is from a kit for a Belgian Ale.  The gent said to leave that in the fermenter for 'about 3 weeks' then bottle it.  At what stage in this do I use the carboy? Do I even need to use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thank for helping a newbie. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1080" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T23:22:29.943" Title="Confused about using a carboy" Tags="|carboy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3537" CreationDate="2011-02-28T17:28:52.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the hobby.  Reading How To Brew is a good way to get started.  The carboy will be used during the fermentation phase, starting at step 9 of the &quot;Brewing your first beer with malt extract&quot; section of the book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/section1/chapter9.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://howtobrew.com/section1/chapter9.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, after you've boiled the ingredients and cooled down the wort, you'll pour or siphon them into the carboy, add the yeast, cap off with an airlock of some sort, and allow to ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1037" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T17:28:52.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3537" CreationDate="2011-02-28T19:03:43.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, if you are using a bucket for primary fermentation, you would use the carboy for secondary fermentation/aging.   Generally, that's only needed for wood-aging, dry-hopping, racking onto fruit, etc.    If you don't intend to do any of those sorts of things, you can just use the carboy as another fermentor.   When I started off, all I had was 2 5-gallon glass carboys, so I made 4.5 gallon batches and used a blowoff hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T19:03:43.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3537" CreationDate="2011-02-28T19:08:13.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've got a &quot;primary fermenter&quot; (like a big plastic pail) and a carboy, the idea is that the initial fermentation would be done in the primary fermenter, and when it settles down (likely around after 4 days or so) you would transfer (&quot;rack&quot;) it to the carboy for secondary fermentation.  Then at bottling time you'll rack it back to the primary fermenter to mix in the priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Primary fermentation is a bit messy, so some people like doing it in a pail like the one your kit probably came with.  They are easier to clean than carboys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T19:08:13.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2011-02-28T19:35:21.600" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an experiment I did years back, I found that the amount of time you give the CO2 to go into solution is the main factor.  The reason that DME seems to give finer bubbles is because of the amount of time it takes to ferment out, which gives the CO2 more time to dissolve.   DME, though, is not a good sugar to use for priming because the fermentability of it varies from one type and manufacturer to another.  Therefore, you never know exactly how much fermentable sugar you're adding to a batch.  Keeping the beer cold once the sugar has fermented out will increase the solubility and give you finer bubbles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T19:35:21.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3530" CreationDate="2011-02-28T19:40:41.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you're a first time brewer, I assume you used extract.  Knowing the amount of extract, the volume and the final gravity will allow you to calculate the ABV.  Dry extract (DME) has about 45 points/lb./gal. (ppg).  In other words, one lb. of dry extract in one gal. of water will give you a gravity of 1.045.  If you put that one lb. in 5 gal, of water, you get a gravity of 1.009 (45/5=9).  Liquid extract (LME) has about 36 ppg.  So, for instance, if your recipe used 5 lb. of LME and your batch was 5 gal., your OG would be 1.036.  Next, when it's done fermenting you need to measure the final gravity.  I use the formula (OG-FG)x.132 to determine the ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T19:40:41.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4391" CreationDate="2011-03-01T08:42:40.310" Score="3" ViewCount="1544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought a 5L kegerator system for my office &amp;amp; would like to start bringing my homebrew in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to get started?  Can I re-use purchased 5L kegs or are there any retailers around that sell empties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-03-02T11:39:30.320" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T00:29:21.100" Title="What equipment do I need to start brewing into 5L kegs?" Tags="|equipment|kegging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3537" CreationDate="2011-03-01T12:57:41.620" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A long standing mantra of brewing was to ferment in the plastic bucket for 7 days.  Then the beer would be siphoned out of the bucket and into the carboy.  In the carboy it would sit for 14 days.  This step was used 1) to help with beer clarity as more stuff would settle out here post the primary ferment (done in the pail) 2) to get the beer of the sludge of yeast that will be sitting at the bottom of the pail after 7 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current more conventional thinking has won out that you only really need to do your ferment for most beers for 14 days in one vessle.  As a new brewer the buckets tend to be easier to clean and maintain at first, but a glass carboy lets you see the beer fermenting in side and is sort of cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend choosing the bucket and fermenting for 14 days.  At the end of the 14 days, check the gravity to be sure you are done. (that may require a couple checks on consecutive days).  Go ahead an bottle as directed after that.  Then you can get into trying more tricks of the trade with the carboy and a two stage process.  But first you should focus on just making a good beer that will encourage you to move forward and do something new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First time around keep it simple and as worry free as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T12:57:41.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3543" CreationDate="2011-03-01T16:07:05.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy new or used kegs, but keep in mind that mini kegs are usually harder to find than full size cornies, and can thus be 2-3 times more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details about usage (priming, tapping, cleaning, sanitizing, etc.) are given &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewery.org/library/mini112994.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  If you buy used, it's a good idea to ensure that it's been pressure tested before you buy, and pick up some spare o-rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="304" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T16:07:05.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3551" CreationDate="2011-03-01T16:52:33.493" Score="2" ViewCount="2195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting started with my first brewing experience, I have some doubt in my mind, and I was hoping someone could clear this up for me once and for all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen a lot of beer recipes that leave some vagueness to the hop addition timing, and the length of mashing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long do you steep the grains/extract/sugar if the recipe doesn't say?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a recipe lists some hops, and then a time, is that the time that passes after the wort starts boiling to add the hops, or is that the amount of time to leave the hops in? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I always assume a 90 minute boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1083" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T20:21:49.803" Title="Mash / Hops Timing Confusion" Tags="|beer|mashing|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3546" CreationDate="2011-03-01T17:30:54.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't assume a 90 minute boil - it depends on the recipe. Usually you want to boil that long to let some wort evaporate or concentrate to reach the target abv. The timing is when the wort begins to boil -60 min hop additions remain in the boiling wort for 60 min and it counts down until flameout. I would steep the grains for a minimum of 30 minutes, but it wouldn't hurt to leave them for 60 minutes since specialty grains are mainly used for color and unfermentables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T17:30:54.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3543" CreationDate="2011-03-01T17:34:52.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is some good information here on reusing them also: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=90461&amp;amp;start=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=90461&amp;amp;start=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T17:34:52.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-01T17:46:46.630" Score="4" ViewCount="3077" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing one for a competition -I hopped it like a double or Imperial IPA in the boil, but I am hopping it with three dry hop additions added in separate increments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T20:50:15.627" Title="How many of you have brewed a 'Triple IPA' and how do you define it?" Tags="|ipa|imperial|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3549" CreationDate="2011-03-01T18:20:12.467" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's one more than a double IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T18:20:12.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3546" CreationDate="2011-03-01T18:31:00.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, you're doing a 90 minute boil to decrease the Dimethyl Sulfide precursors.   This is especially important in wort that uses Pilsener malt.   I usually assume a 60 minute boil (I start counting after the hot break has subsided) unless the recipe calls for a longer one (i.e. it has pilsener malt). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen it both ways, but usually, the time indicator is how much time remains to boil.   So a 60 minute addition boils for 60 minutes, a 20 minute for 20 minutes, and a 0 minute is added when you turn the heat off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using grain that requires a mash, you want to mash for at least 60 minutes, so that the enzymes have plenty of time to break down the starches into sugar.   I think for a steep, you can go for 30 minutes (I'm not certain; I've only done that once).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T18:31:00.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3549" CreationDate="2011-03-01T19:42:50.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double IPA gets its name either because there are two I's (IIPA), for imperial IPA, or just double because of having roughly double the alcohol.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what you describe, I would call it a Triple Dry Hops Brewed Beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was your reasoning for putting the dry hops in at different intervals, and which hops did you use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T19:42:50.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3546" CreationDate="2011-03-01T20:21:49.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most single temps mash go for 60 minutes.&#xA;Convention for the minutes is how long something is boiled.  SO a 60min hop addition is done once your boil starts.  5 minutes means with 5 minutes remaining.  0 means right as you turn off the heat before you start to chill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 90 minute boil would include 30 minutes of boiling before the hop additions start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 90 minute v 60 minute boil would be a matter of choice for process.  I tend to do a 75 minute boil.  I like the advantage I get with 90 minute boil, but like to save a little time only doing it for 75 minutes.  (hops go in 15 minutes after the boil start).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T20:21:49.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-01T21:13:49.127" Score="4" ViewCount="1519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to brew for my third time now. I have a red ale in the primary fermenter... but I am itching to do something a little more &quot;advanced&quot;, since the last two came out good. I'm ready for a new challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations on what I can add to it during the secondary that might give it a little bit of a more unique/delicious taste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1091" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T03:09:25.613" Title="Red Ale - Already in primary fermenter, what can I add to it during the secondary?" Tags="|secondary|late-addition|red-ale|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3554" CreationDate="2011-03-01T21:47:14.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always dry hop.  Dry hopping is when you simply add hops to the carboy during the secondary fermentation 3-4 days prior to bottling/carbonating.  It doesn't add much in terms of flavor, but is meant to add to the hoppy aroma of your brew.  I've always been told to use hops of lower alpha acid content as these typically add more to the aroma anyhow, but I also like trying stuff out, so choose a hop that you like.  I've done this several times and it's always turned out great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1092" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T21:47:14.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3554" CreationDate="2011-03-01T22:28:28.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's American-style (American Amber Ale can be red), then dry hopping isn't a bad idea, as patbrew suggested.  On the other hand, if it's a malt-forward Irish-style red ale, some raspberry could be pretty good in there.  You can use raspberry flavoring from the HBS, or you can use raspberry liqueur, or you can even use raspberry preserves (look for organic ones, such as Oregon brand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T22:28:28.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3554" CreationDate="2011-03-01T22:39:36.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try adding ginger tea.   I had really good results with ginger in an ESB.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T22:39:36.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1958" CreationDate="2011-03-02T02:51:08.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Synthetics are generally used because they're &quot;inert&quot; and don't affect flavor at all. Since the fibers also can't absorb any liquid, the porosity of the bag won't change like it would with hemp or cotton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T02:51:08.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3554" CreationDate="2011-03-02T03:09:25.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to split out a five gallon batch into one gallon jugs for experimenting. That way you could try dry hopping using different amounts and hop types in a couple and try out other flavors in the rest. When I do this I like to leave at least a gallon untouched to compare to the new flavored ideas. +1 for branching out and trying something new!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T03:09:25.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3518" CreationDate="2011-03-02T03:13:28.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with some of my autosiphon parts. The only thing that seemed to get rid of the smell was a soak in white wine vinegar and then a soak in oxyclean. The parts still had a small &quot;off&quot; aroma, maybe from the combination of everything.  My LHBS sells the tubing by the foot so i just ended up replacing the off smelling parts for pretty cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T03:13:28.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3564" CreationDate="2011-03-02T12:58:05.887" Score="5" ViewCount="51507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a brew that's been on primary fermentation for 10 days and still haven't seen any activity in the airlock (again).  Gravity has dropped from 1.040 to 1.014, but I'd still like to raise the alcohol content a little and am worried the beer will come out flat (much like my previous attempt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the problem is that it's too damn hot here and the yeast have been killed off, despite keeping the fermenter under an aircon vent &amp;amp; starting fermentation at midnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to drop the carboy into an ice bath to get it nice &amp;amp; cold, and then add more yeast.  Will this work?  Is there anything I need to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-03-02T13:39:04.460" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T23:07:10.663" Title="Can I add more yeast during primary fermentation?" Tags="|yeast|carbonation|primary|attenuation|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3561" CreationDate="2011-03-02T13:40:01.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer:   Yes you can.   You'll need to make a starter and get that yeast actively fermenting before you pour it into your main fermentor, though.   That's now a fairly hostile environment, so adding them at the peak will help them deal with the low sugar &amp;amp; high alcohol environment that you'll be putting them in.   I'd suggest a fairly neutral flavored yeast (if you're making an ale, US-05, WLP001, WY1056)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T13:40:01.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3561" CreationDate="2011-03-02T14:00:29.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Need some more info. What type of yeast and what recipe is this? What temp did you ferment at? It sounds like you may be close to a FG for some styles. And may still have a leak in your system if you are getting no airlock activity. I wouldn't recommend re-pitching with that low of a final gravity, if you are just looking for a higher alcohol content you would have needed to start with a higher OG to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T14:00:29.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3561" CreationDate="2011-03-02T15:13:34.030" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add more yeast anytime if you like, but 1.040 to 1.014 sounds like its done fermenting to me.  The beer isn't going to get much more fermented than what it is now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer would have to be pretty hot for the yeast to get completely killed off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be plenty of yeast left to carbonate the beer.  If you really feel that yeast is the reason why your last batch didn't carbonate, then a half a pack of dried yeast rehydrated in a cup of boiled and cooled water can be added at bottling right in the bottling bucket along with the sugar solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding yeast to a cold carboy of beer is just going to force the yeast into a dormant state and shock them.  So I don't understand why you would consider that. (Maybe its not clear from the ?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T15:13:34.030" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3567" CreationDate="2011-03-02T16:18:28.493" Score="4" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking into making yeast slants, thinking it could be fun.  I've been looking for some test tubes online, and have a few questions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it tough to use test tubes with stoppers rather than screw on caps?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will I be able to properly sanitize polyethylene, or should I spend the extra few bucks on glass? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where is a good place to get them? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are petri dishes better than test tubes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T19:49:43.297" Title="Good slant vials?" Tags="|yeast-cultures|slants|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3561" CreationDate="2011-03-02T16:24:55.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreed with @brewchez.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SG of 1.014 tells you that a lot of fermenting has already happened (though it is odd that you saw no airlock activity; what about yeast foam on the surface or stuck to the sides of the fermenter just above the liquid level?).  With an O.G. of 1.040 you'd usually expect a bit more attenuation, down to 1.010 or 1.012, unless you've made a relatively unfermentable wort (lots of crystal, or high mash temp.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes a highly flocculent yeast can be swirled back into suspension and this can help it finish off the fermentation a bit quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that your fermentation happened so quickly (you say you pitched at midnight) that it was over and done with by morning time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably your two biggest risks from high temperatures like this are the development of off-flavours, or having an infection set it.  If your sanitation is really good you can perhaps get away with the latter.  The former is very much a function of the yeast strain and I've never used S-05 so I have no idea how it behaves at high temperature (I did once find out that S-189, a lager yeast and my favourite one in fact, gave a good clean fermentation at 23C - wow!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really do want to raise the alcohol strength, I would add additional sterile wort and mix or agitate it well.  Even if you brew all-grain the easiest way would be to boil up some water and malt extract.  Adding say 5 litres of 1.080 wort to your 20 litres of what-started-out-as-1.040-wort, would give you 25 litres of wort that would have an equivalent OG of 1.048.  (though my thoughts on this are, if you are in the middle of the summer in Australia perhaps a 1.040 beer would be nicer than a stronger one)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1094" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T16:24:55.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3565" CreationDate="2011-03-02T19:49:43.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw ons are important for maintaining the moisture content.  Stoppers can pop off accidentally and ruin the culture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regarding sanitation, its easiest to just purchase individually packaged sterile tubes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd suggest looking at VWR scientific or Fisher Scientific.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Petri dishes are for a different part of the process over slants.  So, no IMO.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T19:49:43.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3573" CreationDate="2011-03-02T21:38:31.860" Score="6" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be similar to some of the questions extract brewers ask, but what I want to do is brew my normal 10 gallons, but I want to do an imperial.  I use a 10 gallon mash tun, limiting me to 26 pounds of grain, give or take, and I need 40.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is subjective, and will delete if deemed inappropriate, but has anyone done a large addition of extract to an otherwise all grain recipe and perceived a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T13:08:10.810" Title="Is there a noticable difference between adding extract to all grain and &quot;pure all grain&quot; on high gravity beers?" Tags="|all-grain|extract|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3568" CreationDate="2011-03-02T21:45:30.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main difference is that your beer may have a tendency to be somewhat darker depending on the extract and the original grain bill.  Make sure you're using fresh extract, especially if using LME since old extract can develop off flavors.  Essentially you're just doing a partial mash - plenty of recipes out there that follow that.  Beyond that, you'll just run into your typical high gravity concerns such as yeast pitching and hop utilization.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T21:45:30.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3568" CreationDate="2011-03-03T03:00:26.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you ensure your extract is reasonably fresh, you shouldn't be able to notice the LME in an imperial that's mostly grain.  From personal experience,  the high alcohol content and heavy hopping rates make it impossible to tell that LME was used.  Additionally, stronger beers tend towards higher concentrations of esters, fusels, and other aromatics, which would further obscure any flavors from the LME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T03:00:26.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-03T04:15:32.507" Score="3" ViewCount="2089" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im brewing a belgian wit and have not seen any action after putting it in the secondary fermented in the airlock. The hydrometor showed after the first fermentation a 1.12. Should I leave it alone or take another reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1096" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T17:39:05.757" Title="my airlock is not bubbling after 4 days on the secondary fermenter in a carboy." Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3571" CreationDate="2011-03-03T04:25:00.490" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would leave it alone. It sounds like you may have reached final gravity for the style. I very rarely see activity on my secondary vessels, and it is a good idea to not rack to secondary until fermentation is complete. Secondary is not as important for fermentation, instead it is time for the beer to have more time to clear out and flavors to meld together into a delicious brew. I recommend letting it sit a week, and take gravity readings the last 2-3 days of that. If there is no change you are good to keg/bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T04:25:00.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3568" CreationDate="2011-03-03T13:08:10.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a perfectly fine technique if you don't want to do a double mash session to get it all grain.  The only limitation with trying to go &quot;imperial&quot; using a large portion of extract (or doing it all extract if you aren't set up for all-grain brewing) is the fermentability of the extract.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extract, by nature of how it is made, tends to have a limit to which it can be fermented.  Its a function of trying to make the most versatile extract that they can.  You may end up with an FG that is higher than you'd like in your final product, simply due to the amount of extract being used.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't give you #s because its highly dependent on the brand and amount of extract you end up using.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my recommendations:   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the lightest colored DME you can.  It tends to be lighter in color and fresher than most LME sources (unless you have a shop with high turnover).  Focus then on using specialty grains for your desired flavor and color.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second recommendation would be to mash in fairly low for the all grain portion.  Shooting for 148-149F for 90minutes will make for a highly fermentable wort.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lastly, after you figure out how much extract you think you want to use to get to your desired OG, I'd then substitute 10% of the gravity points from the extract you planned to use for the same # of gravity point with table sugar.  Table sugar being almost 100% fermentable will help dry the beer out too.    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of people sparging there grain beds with brewing water that contains a small percentage of their extract in it.  Slowly fly sparging that through the grain bed at 160F ish tends to convert the less fermentable dextrans into simpler sugars on the way through the grains.  Its sort of an off the wall variable that I don't have a lot of experience with yet, so I am not advocating it, but its something to keep in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T13:08:10.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3571" CreationDate="2011-03-03T16:48:39.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T16:48:39.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3571" CreationDate="2011-03-03T17:39:05.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Secondary &quot;fermentation&quot; is a misnomer.  It's more for clarifying and conditioning beer.  AAMOF, most experts these days recommend skipping secondary altogether unless you have a specific reason for it...a high OG beer that needs conditioning, adding fruit or dry hops to a beer.  In general you're better off just leaving the beer in primary for 3-4 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T17:39:05.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3577" CreationDate="2011-03-03T19:12:12.537" Score="5" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing my first fermentation using a Belgian Ale kit.  I started this Monday evening and have it in a location that is running between 64 and 66*f consistent.  On the first night, the cap of the airlock blew off and gunk came through the airlock onto the top of the fermenter.  I cleaned that all up, sanitized the airlock again and replaced it.  Tuesday night, bubbling in the airlock was still happening but not a lot.  Today, there is no bubbling happening at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something to worry about?  My boyfriend started his first brew the day before I did, and he still had bubbling yesterday.  He is doing a Red Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1080" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:47:52.723" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:47:52.723" Title="First Fermentation And Worried Something Is Wrong" Tags="|fermentation|blow-off|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3576" CreationDate="2011-03-03T19:29:28.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing to worry about.  The kind of mess you've had to deal with is one of the reasons I prefer to start out in the pail.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relax... everything will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T19:29:28.067" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3579" CreationDate="2011-03-03T21:11:35.837" Score="4" ViewCount="937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to start entering my beers in competitions.  I'm really interested in getting good feedback from BJCP judges.  To improve my showing, is there anything I should do with my bottle conditioned beer beer before dropping it off (or shipping it?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience the beer really benefits from some time in the fridge after conditioning has completed.  Typically I let it condition at 70+F for about three weeks, then I move the beer to my cellar and put as much as I can in the beer fridge.  The longer it spends in the fridge, the clearer the beer becomes and the more the yeast sediment compacts.  For a competition, is it better to chill the bottles in the fridge for a few weeks before dropping them off, or will the return to room temperature adversely affect the beer?  Is it better to leave the competition-bound bottles at room or cellar temp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T17:24:12.860" Title="How should I prep bottle conditioned beer for a competition?" Tags="|cloudy|competition|clarification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3578" CreationDate="2011-03-03T21:14:29.150" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it matters all that much.  I've entered and judged many comps and done it both ways.  Chilling then warming will not adversely affect the beer.  So I say follow your basic routine of chilling after carbing, then do whatever will work best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="430" LastEditDate="2011-03-04T14:53:44.383" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T14:53:44.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1554" CreationDate="2011-03-03T21:17:40.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the rye is at all noticeable, you'll need to enter it as a specialty beer.  If you read the style guidelines, rye is not to style for any pale ale or IPA.  It's definitely not an Am. rye or roggenbier.  The best way to determine which category to enter a beer in is to sit down and drink some while you read the guidelines for the style you're thinking of.  Try to taste what the guidelines describe.  Then enter it in the category it tastes like, despite what you thought you were making when you brewed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T21:17:40.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2548" CreationDate="2011-03-03T21:21:06.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take really good notes so you can correct next time for things that don't work out this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T21:21:06.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3576" CreationDate="2011-03-03T23:54:55.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is known as a &quot;blowoff&quot;, and happens under various conditions: (overfull fermentor, temperature, yeast strain, fermentability of wort...)   It sounds like you did everything right.   As stated above, measuring the gravity gives you much more information than counting the bubbles, since so many things can effect the amount of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; coming out of the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future brews:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1747/what-is-a-proper-blow-off-tube-setup&quot;&gt;What is a proper blow-off tube setup?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T23:54:55.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3586" CreationDate="2011-03-04T15:15:25.743" Score="11" ViewCount="6710" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my first bottle bomb ever yesterday, after 3 years of brewing.  I've had some bottles break during opening, some while bottling, and it's usually not a big deal, though sad.  Having one shoot out all over my laundry room is a much bigger problem that I'd like to prevent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many times do you re-use bottles, and how do you count if you do?  Is there any other way to evaluate the condition of the bottle?  This one was a 22 oz bottle bought at my local homebrew store 3 years ago, and appears to be the weakest type of bottle I use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Just for reference, I sanitize using iodaphor in tap water, so I don't believe there's much temperature shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-03-15T20:16:27.270" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T21:00:01.600" Title="Is there a limit to how many times you re-use bottles?" Tags="|bottles|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3583" CreationDate="2011-03-04T15:45:10.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't count, and have yet to have a problem as far as bottle bombs.   I would look to sanitation and getting the priming sugar mixture correct before I would consider that the bottles are too old.    I have had a couple that broke around the lip during opening or capping, but I just tossed them when I had a problem.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of what I bottle any more is given away, though, and I tell people that I don't want the bottles back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T15:45:10.797" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3583" CreationDate="2011-03-04T15:45:15.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer bottles should be able to last indefinitely. For the most part. That being said here are some things to consider.  &lt;br&gt;   &lt;br&gt; The glass is sensitive to temperature changes. So if you are using say, the heated dry cycle on the dishwasher and then dropping them in cooler temperature sanitizer immediately, it is going to weaken the glass. &lt;br&gt;  &lt;br&gt; Against popular opinion, thinner glass is actually more resilient to this heat change, due to the fact that less heat is contained in thicker glass and it can adapt faster.  &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; Some micro breweries give cash exchange for bottles for re-use. If they became weaker with time they probably would not make this kind of investment.  &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; The long and short is as long as your bottles do not appear to have a weak point IE a chip or crack you are probably ok. &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; Last thought, there is some mention of beer stone or other mineral deposits not being cleaned out of the bottles properly enough that may have some effect on the bottle strength. I personally have never seen this so take that with a grain of salt, and a homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T15:45:15.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3583" CreationDate="2011-03-04T15:46:19.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on how you treat your bottles.  If you sanitize them with heat - through baking or boiling - then you're giving the bottles a finite life span.  As for how many heat cycles they can take, I have no idea.  And it surely varies from bottle to bottle.  If you sanitize your bottles chemically (E.g., Star San), then I think you can use bottles forever provided that they don't get banged around, they don't have manufacturing defects, and they're thick, sturdy bottles.  I've tossed some bottles where I saw bits of foreign matter inside the glass.  I also don't reuse bottles made from thin glass.  &quot;Thin&quot; is subjective, but some bottles are heavier than others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T15:46:19.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-04T16:55:40.337" Score="2" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will be my very first homebrew, but I have been doing a lot of reading, research and practice.  My question is, does anything about this recipe I have created look off to any experience brewers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;%   LB  OZ  Malt or Fermentable &#xA;&#xA;66% 7   5   Muntons Extra Light Malt Extract &#xA;18% 2   0   Sugar, Table (Sucrose) &#xA;9%   1  0   Invert Sugar &#xA;2%   0  6   Honey &#xA;2%   0  4   Belgian Aromatic &#xA;2%   0  4   Munich Malt &#xA;&#xA;Hops&#xA;&#xA;use     time        oz      variety         form    aa&#xA;boil    60 mins     3.5    Slovania Celeia  pellet  2.8&#xA;boil    15 mins     0.5    Slovania Celeia  pellet  2.8&#xA;boil    2 min       0.25   Czech Saaz       pellet  4&#xA;&#xA;use     time    amount      ingredient&#xA;boil    5 min   0.5 ounces  Coriander Seed&#xA;boil    5 min   0.5 ounces  Orange Zest&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Wyeast 3864 Canadian/Belgian&#xA;&#xA;Original Gravity        Final Gravity   Bitterness  Alcohol&#xA;1.087                   1.019           23.6 IBU    9.1% ABV &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cultivated the yeast from a La Fin Du Monde bottle.  I think it should be similar to Wyeast 3864 Canadian/Belgian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Carson&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1083" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T21:43:40.807" Title="Belgian/Canadian Tripel Recipe Question" Tags="|recipe|first-time-brewer|belgian|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3587" CreationDate="2011-03-04T17:32:55.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a pretty complicated recipe for a tripel.  Usually a tripel is just malt and sugar.  I don't see the need for the invert sugar and/or honey in your recipe.  The aromatic and Munich are also unnecessary, but there's so little of each that it probably won't hurt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very ambitious beer for your first homebrew.  You need to be aware that it will require a large yeast starter, not just the pack if Wyeast.  See www.mrmalty.com for details and advice about making starters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-03-04T18:05:59.927" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T18:05:59.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3587" CreationDate="2011-03-04T17:40:36.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have too high a percentage of sugar in the form of honey, invert sugar, and table sugar.  These are all highly fermentable and will leave the beer with very little body.  I would suggest cutting back on the table sugar by a pound or more because it's not bring much to the party except alcohol.  The honey and the invert sugar will add some character to the beer besides adding alcohol.  You can make up the difference with more malt extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Munich malt is not typical for the style but wouldn't hurt to leave in since the amount is small.  The spices and orange zest are also not typical for the style since the yeast strain provide many similar flavors if fermented at higher temps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also expect your final gravity to be much lower than 1.019 since you do have a significant amount of sugar in the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looks to me like this would be more of a Belgian specialty beer with the different grains and spices added.  Just cut back on the sugar and I think you will have a decent beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T17:40:36.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3591" CreationDate="2011-03-04T19:31:26.627" Score="7" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;For beer aged either in oak barrels or on oak chips/cubes, does the contact with the oak noticeably affect final gravity, and if so, what is the direct cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-03-10T20:21:18.600" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T03:19:09.697" Title="Does wood affect final gravity readings?" Tags="|fermentation|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3590" CreationDate="2011-03-04T19:38:00.970" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really.  In a discussion of the subject on the AHA forum recently, it was brought up that using barrels will increase the &quot;angel's share&quot;...the beer that evaporates.  But it's such a small amount that it's negligible in terms of increasing the alcohol.  Using chips or cubes should have no effect whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T19:38:00.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3590" CreationDate="2011-03-04T20:00:06.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not as long as the wood isn't infested with Brettanomyces, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T20:00:06.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3374" CreationDate="2011-03-04T20:38:04.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure can. I have been re-using the plastic caps on PET bottles for 10 years now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I do is inspect each cap for signs of overtightening. Usually the cap will &quot;bulge up&quot; slightly round the top if this has occured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had failures in the past where the pressure of the carbonation leads to the cap splitting round the top, hence why I now check them. That said, it has only happened to about 5 bottles over the 10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1098" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T20:38:04.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3608" CreationDate="2011-03-04T20:49:33.033" Score="9" ViewCount="10588" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an apple tree full of fruit this year. Having brewed my own beer for years now I gather I have all the right gear to brew cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, can I brew cider from my apples and how would I go about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1098" LastActivityDate="2011-09-25T07:57:15.300" Title="Tips for making Cider from apples" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3594" CreationDate="2011-03-04T21:20:47.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the main thing that's different from beer is the sugar extraction.    You'll need to acquire an apple press, and possibly a grinder, as well.   The apples will already have wild yeast on them, so you can either add sulfites and inoculate the must with a wine yeast, or you can just let the wild yeast ferment it and see how things turn out.   I'd be tempted to do multiple batches and try both.   You'll also probably need to add pectic enzyme if you want it to be clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sentex.net/~mwandel/press/making_cider.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Making Cider&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T21:20:47.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2548" CreationDate="2011-03-04T22:40:02.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using coolers for HLT or MLT - make sure they have been at room temperature for a significant amount of time before using them.  Sadly, I once made this rookie mistake, which made it very difficult to hit the correct temperatures...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T22:40:02.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3594" CreationDate="2011-03-05T01:42:22.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just attempted to make some apple cider. My first problem was I didn't use a variety of apples. I had 6 chopped up Fuji apples for a one gallon &quot;test brew&quot; and it came out more like apple water than hard apple cider. After I had pitched it I learned that you are supposed to use a variety of sweet and semi-sweet apples to make good cider. My second problem was I used cloves for flavor but I put in too much so the clove taste is really overpowering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1100" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T01:42:22.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3600" CreationDate="2011-03-05T09:41:33.640" Score="8" ViewCount="43861" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to brew a ginger beer and was wondering if the choice of yeast is as important in a ginger beer, where the ginger dominates the flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got the yeast-under-the-cap packet and a US-05 to choose from &amp;amp; wondering if the results will be much different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the yeast choice make a noticable difference?  Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2020-02-16T11:56:44.360" Title="Does yeast choice matter as much in ginger beer?" Tags="|beer|yeast|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3594" CreationDate="2011-03-05T09:54:03.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making cider from straight &quot;dessert apple&quot; juice can be very disappointing.  I did it once.  The juice was wonderfully tasty (a mix of Macs and some Cortland).  But when the fermentation stripped out all of the sweetness, the result was unbalanced and unappealing - basically it was quite sour and pretty one-dimensional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cider apples have a lot of other flavour components in them (e.g. tannins) and while I have never tasted fresh pressed juice from cider apples I imagine that it would not be a particularly sweet (i.e. unfermented) apple juice.  So if you can possibly find juice from &quot;cider apples&quot; it would certainly be worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1094" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T09:54:03.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3598" CreationDate="2011-03-05T10:05:51.763" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're making Ginger Beer, you really need a Ginger Beer Plant, which is a particular kind of yeast/bacteria blend.  This will help get the appropriate acidity in the finished product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2008/07/ginger-beer-plant-101.html&quot;&gt;Ginger Beer Plant 101&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're making Beer flavored with Ginger, I'd say use a yeast that's appropriate for the beer style.  I used Safale S-04 (and a dead package of Wyeast 1099) for my Ginger ESB.   I think the fruity esters from the yeast complemented the ginger flavors well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T10:05:51.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-05T12:15:34.917" Score="1" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually in summer in WA I can bottle my beers within one week of placing the ingredients in the wort (plastic fermenting bucket with airlock).  This is due to the average temperature being 25-30 degrees celcius (day and night).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I placed a Coopers Pale Ale in the wort with cultivated yeast (I use 1/3 bottle bought coopers pale ale and add diluted sugar in water and leave for 1 week prior to adding to watt).  I have been busy working away from home and it is still in the wort after two and a half weeks.  It stopped bubbling one week ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it still ok to bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1101" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T03:08:45.290" Title="Western Australia: 2 weeks in the Wort - is this too long in summer time?" Tags="|wort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3598" CreationDate="2011-03-05T15:24:38.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well if you threw a hefewiezen yeast in there it would be odd, so yes yeast choice matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T15:24:38.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3607" CreationDate="2011-03-05T15:54:16.570" Score="1" ViewCount="3230" Body="&lt;p&gt;Into what BJCP category should I enter this beer for competition?  I think I have to enter it in 21A - spice, herb, or vegetable beer - due to the use of cacao nibs, coffee, and bourbon.  The underlying style, I think, is either 13C - Oatmeal Stout - or 13f - Russian Imperial Stout.  It is an oatmeal stout, but the OG was 1.080, which is too high for 13C.  Can I enter this into one of the stout categories, or does it have to go into one of the specialty categories (21 or 23)?  I based the recipe on a clone of Founder's Breakfast Stout I found online.  That commercial beer is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style21.php#1a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;listed as an example of style 21A&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;14 lb US 2-row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lb 6 oz flaked oats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lb chocolate malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 oz roasted barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9 oz black patent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 oz crystal 120&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash at 154 for 60 minutes.  Boil for 60 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Nugget @ 60 min.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 oz Mt. Hood @ 30 min.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 oz Mt. Hood @ 0 min.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final SG: 1.020&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two weeks in secondary with 1 pint cold-brewed Sumatra coffee and eight ounces raw cracked cacao nibs soaked in 1 cup Maker's Mark.  I calculate the bourbon added 0.5% abv to the beer, assuming it was all released from the cacao nibs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T23:31:05.197" Title="What BJCP category does this breakfast stout fall under?" Tags="|beer-styles|stout|competition|bjcp|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3603" CreationDate="2011-03-05T16:44:10.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you read the guidelines for a stout, there's no mention of bourbon or coffee flavors, so you shouldn't enter it on that category.  It would belong in 21 or 23.  Depending on the rules of the comp you might be able to enter it in both.  Always enter a beer as what it tastes like.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T16:44:10.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2159" CreationDate="2011-03-05T16:47:32.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mash pH should be 5.2-5.5 measured at room temperature. Room temp is the standard reference for pH.  You can adjust pH with mineral additions.  Dark grains have a tendency to drive down the pH and the darker the grain the more that will happen.  Chalk (CaCO3) is often used to raise pH for dark beers.  The problem with that is that it's only partially soluble so you may not be able to add enough to get the pH where you need it without adversely affecting the flavor.  A better choice is pickling lime (Calcium hydroxide-Ca(OH)2).  It has much better solubility and is much more effective at raising pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-03-05T17:50:13.433" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T17:50:13.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3603" CreationDate="2011-03-05T22:50:32.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chocolate stouts and coffee stouts usually fit into 21A (Spice, Herb, or Vegetable Beer).  You'll notice Bell's Java Stout and Rogue Chocolate Stout are listed as commercial examples of style 21A.  If the whiskey is noticeable, it might nudge you outside of category 21 and into 23 (Specialty Beer). The most dominant flavor will determine which style best describes your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, you'll have a better chance in competitions by avoiding style 23, since it's so broad, but as Denny mentioned, you may be able to enter both categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as a sidenote, if oak or other wood had been the medium for introducing the Maker's Mark, you'd also be looking at a possible entry for 22C (Wood-Aged Beer).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2011-03-05T23:31:05.197" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T23:31:05.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3594" CreationDate="2011-03-05T23:35:10.267" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Started doing hard ciders (apple and pear) last august and have learned a few key things. Using a juicer is just as good as using a traditional cider press. When you use the pressed stuff, you end up having the clarify the hard cider, while juiced apple cider is more clear. The taste between the two cider production methods is not significantly different. A good heavy duty juicer (mine is a Breville that takes whole apples at once) runs about $150, a press closer to $200. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done apples, pears, cactus pears, and peaches and all produced juice with SG's in the 1.050 range that you need for a good hard cider. Even the Mussleman's pasteurized cider (don't use juice, it's too dilute and usually has sorbate added that will inhibit your yeast) from Wally world made a good tasting hard cider and base for some of my freaky brews (made a 1,000,000 scoville unit hot pepper cider that is great with chili or hot wings). Much higher than that SG and the alcohol tends to override the fruit flavor (adjusted my first pear SG to 1.070 and it was almost straight alcohol with no fruit taste). I found that using honey or sorghum to raise the SG for low SG apple juices worked great and gave some good character to the apple cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid any variety of apple that has the word delicious in it. They don't have much flavor by the time the alcohol is added during fermentation. If you aren't certain what species you have, toss in a few granny smiths in the mash to add some better residual apple flavor to the hard cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast is important, but not as much with beer. The cheap cote des blancs or premier cuvee ($0.75 per package) turns out as decent a cider as the more expensive cider yeast from white labs ($5.00 per tube). The primary difference will be in the carbonation during bottling. The red star tends to be more flat than the white labs, but this can be compensated by a larger priming sugar add before bottling. Wyeast 3068 makes a really good apple and pear cider with a little better flavor than the red star varieties, but it is more expensive (less than west labs or saf-brew), about $3 per activator pack. But the advantage here is that with so many more yeast cells, the fermentation takes significantly less time and the fruit flavor comes out faster during aging than with the red star.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a recipe, The simplest is for every 5 gallon batch (about 55 pounds of fruit), add 6 crushed campden tabs to cider and let stand for at least 48 hours. Swirl the carboy hard to let the sulfur dioxide gas to escape, then add 2 Tbl of pectic enzyme, 3 Tbl of yeast nutrient (both have been dissolved into some of the cider) to the carboy and swirl to mix. Check the SG and if it isn't 1.050 add about 2 cups of sorghum or honey (that have been dissolved into some cider) to bring it up. Activate 1 package of cotes de blanc yeast in one cup of non-chlorinated water (Brita filtered or bottled distilled) that has 2 Tbl of sugar dissolved in it. Let the yeast/sugar water mixture stand for about 20 minutes until you see foam starting to form on top. Add the yeast to the carboy and swirl hard for about 5 minutes (a step that I didn't see in other online recipes) to introduce air into the cider. Airlock it and let stand out of the sun at 65-70 degrees F until the bubble rate in the airlock is less than one per 15 seconds, or until the FG is less than 1.005 (this will be about a 6% abv). Rack into your keg (force carbonating) or priming bucket (traditional bottling). Use the priming sugar calculator (tastybrew.com has a good one) to calculate the amount of sugar to add to the priming bucket then bottle. Should take about 10-14 days to have a nicely carbonated bottled hard cider. BTW - when using the priming calculator, I've found that shooting for 2.0 on the carbon dioxide volume turns out to be about what the carbonation is on commercial bottled hard cider. Greater than that and you end up with a VERY bubbly bottle that REALLY needs to be cold when opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-09-25T07:57:15.300" LastActivityDate="2011-09-25T07:57:15.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3612" CreationDate="2011-03-05T23:45:11.093" Score="0" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3526/should-the-grain-or-strike-water-be-added-to-the-mash-tun-first&quot;&gt;Should the grain or strike water be added to the mash tun first?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I add water first, then grain? Grain, then water? Both at the same time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried that adding grain to hot water might expose some of the grain to too high a temperature. On the other hand, adding water to grain seems like it would cause dough-balls. Combining both at once seems like you'd need at least 3 hands!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T00:25:36.200" Title="How should I combine grain and hot water when doughing in" Tags="|mash|all-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-03-06T20:33:05.483" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="325" CreationDate="2011-03-05T23:48:21.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used gelatin and it worked fine as a last minute clarifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T23:48:21.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="611" CreationDate="2011-03-06T00:06:30.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Started doing hard ciders (apple, pear, hot pepper, peach, cactus pear, raspberry, pumpkin spice, about 60 gal total to date) last august and have learned a few key things. Using a juicer is just as good as using a traditional cider press. When you use the pressed stuff, you end up having the clarify the hard cider, while juiced apple cider is more clear. The taste between the two cider production methods is not significantly different. You can clarify pressed cider with gelatin just before bottling and it seems to taste just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done apples, pears, cactus pears, and peaches and all produced juice with SG's in the 1.050 range that you need for a good hard cider. Even the Mussleman's pasteurized cider (don't use juice, it's too dilute and usually has sorbate added that will inhibit your yeast) from Wally world made a good tasting hard cider and base for some of my freaky brews (made a 1,000,000 scoville unit hot pepper cider that is great with chili or hot wings). Much higher than that SG and the alcohol tends to override the fruit flavor (adjusted my first pear SG to 1.070 and it was almost straight alcohol with no fruit taste). I found that using honey or sorghum to raise the SG for low SG apple juices worked great and gave so good character to the apple cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast is important, but not as much with beer. The cheap cotes de blanc or premier cuvee ($0.75 per package) turns out as decent a cider as the more expensive cider yeast from west labs ($5.00 per tube). The primary difference will be in the carbonation during bottling. The red star tends to be more flat than the west labs, but this can be compensated by a larger priming sugar add before bottling). Wyeast 3068 makes a really good apple and pear cider with a little better flavor than the red star varieties, but it is more expensive (less than west labs or saf-brew), about $3 per activator pack. But the advantage here is that with so many more yeast cells, the fermentation takes significantly less time and the fruit flavor comes out faster during aging that with the red star.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a recipe, The simplest is for every 5 gallon batch (about 55 pounds of fruit juiced in juicer), add 6 crushed campden tabs to cider and let stand for at least 48 hours. Swirl the carboy hard to let the sulfur dioxide gas to escape, then add 2 Tbl of pectic enzyme, 3 Tbl of yeast nutrient (both have been dissolved into some of the cider) to the carboy and swirl to mix. Check the SG and if it isn't 1.050 add about 2 cups of sorghum or honey (that have been dissolved into some cider) to bring it up. Activate 1 package of cotes de blanc yeast in one cup of non-chlorinated water (Brita filtered or bottled distilled) that has 2 Tbl of sugar dissolved in it. Let the yeast/sugar water mixture stand for about 20 minutes until you see foam starting to form on top. Add the yeast to the carboy and swirl hard for about 5 minutes (a step that I didn't see in other online recipes and learned from my homebrewing soon-to-be-stepson) to introduce air into the cider. Airlock it and let stand out of the light at 65-70 degrees F until the bubble rate in the airlock is less than one per 15 seconds, or until the FG is less than 1.005 (this will be about a 6% abv). Rack into your keg (force carbonating) or priming bucket (traditional bottling). Use the priming sugar calculator (tastybrew.com has a good one) to calculate the amount of sugar to add to the priming bucket then bottle. Should take about 10-14 days to have a nicely carbonated bottled hard cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T00:06:30.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3609" CreationDate="2011-03-06T00:25:36.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3526/should-the-grain-or-strike-water-be-added-to-the-mash-tun-first&quot;&gt;Should the grain or strike water be added to the mash tun first?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T00:25:36.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5647" CreationDate="2011-03-06T00:44:24.260" Score="6" ViewCount="1172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started culturing yeast from a La Fin Du Monde bottle about 3 days ago.  I have since stepped it up to a 2L container about half full of wort.  I have been very careful about sanitizing everything and the yeast are growing like crazy.  Right now there is a fair amount of sediment at the bottom and always a bunch of krausen along the top of the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is about the smell.  I have read that a foul smell is bad, and it doesn't smell foul, but it does smell like a glass of La Fin Du Monde that has been mixed with some cider... definitely a far more cidery smell than that of a bottle conditioned beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an &quot;off&quot; smell for culturing yeast, or is this on par?  I have never done this before, so I just want to make sure that a slight to medium cidery smell was not an indication of a contaminated culture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wort mixture I am using is 1/2 cup Extra-light DME, to 1 quart of water, boiled for about 5 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1083" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T01:59:45.173" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T23:46:47.587" Title="Is a cider-like smell a bad sign in a culture of beer yeast?" Tags="|beer|yeast|first-time|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3619" CreationDate="2011-03-06T07:00:14.180" Score="7" ViewCount="4881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a partial mash tonight, and I want to reuse my grain bag for future uses. I tried to rinse it out, but pieces of grain are still in there. What do you guys do to clean it out fully? Throw it in the wash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1104" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T15:49:56.070" Title="How to clean grain bags?" Tags="|cleaning|grain|partial-mash|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3614" CreationDate="2011-03-06T13:31:32.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After my first partial mash I just let my nylon bag sit in a bowl of hot water for about 15 minutes and then just rinsed the bag really well with the sprayer attachment on my faucet.  All the color and bits of grain came right out.  I think it also helped that I turned the bag inside out to clean it as most of what was stuck to the bag was on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T13:31:32.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-06T20:36:58.737" Score="5" ViewCount="2847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to sanitize and dry off my plate chiller using my oven. What temperature do I need to set the oven to, and how long do I need to hold that temperatures for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T14:54:03.470" Title="How can I use my oven to sanitize equipment" Tags="|sanitation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3617" CreationDate="2011-03-06T21:46:42.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;IIRC, you need to hold at least 160F for at least 10 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T21:46:42.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3614" CreationDate="2011-03-07T01:21:03.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My process usually looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Empty as much of the bag out into the trash as I can&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse the bag under running water, getting off whatever bits I can from the outside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the bag inside-out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue to rinse under running water, while mashing and rubbing the bag together in my hands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that the last step does a pretty good job, and the rubbing makes it go so much faster than just trying to &quot;push&quot; the bits of grain off with the sprayer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T01:21:03.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3613" CreationDate="2011-03-07T04:25:15.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate to be the one to burst your bubble, but as far as I know, Unibruoe filters out their primary yeast strain and uses a separate one for bottle conditioning. So even if you did have some non-contaminated yeast, it's most likely not the stuff you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1107" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T04:25:15.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3614" CreationDate="2011-03-07T15:49:56.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I neeeeever quite get all the little bits unstuck.  Fortunately brewing is rather forgiving.  Any little bits that still make it will just end up going along for the ride in the next batch.  The wort is still being boiled, so any baddies hanging out in the few specks of grain aren't going to make it through.  Dunk it in star-san just beforehand if you want to feel extra warm and fuzzy.  The little bits of husk left aren't going to leech any noticable amount of tannin or anything.  Just make sure you clean everything you can readily get, and RDWHAHB about the rest.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T15:49:56.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3587" CreationDate="2011-03-07T16:03:16.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of things -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, the aromatic and munich malts aren't going to really do much in there.  The yeast and additives will mask anything they have to offer.  I'd say increase them to get flavor, or drop them for simplicity.  Otherwise just be sure to reeeeeally work that yeast starter.  Also, you might want to consider dextrose instead of table sugar, as it will ferment cleaner.  Personal taste here, but I might up the orange peel and coriander to 1oz each, but I love those flavors, and to each their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you're going to need to let this beer sit a looooong time before touching it.  I would suggest giving it a month in the Primary, and then another 2-5 in a secondary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T16:03:16.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3626" CreationDate="2011-03-07T16:54:24.680" Score="7" ViewCount="3074" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the following recipe on beercalculus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/551364/belgian-pale-ale-recipes/wedding-belgian-ipa-2011-03-06-version&quot;&gt;http://hopville.com/recipe/551364/belgian-pale-ale-recipes/wedding-belgian-ipa-2011-03-06-version&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;beercalculus (along with most IBU calculators), ask for both a target batch size (which for me is 5 gallons), and a boil size. I'm not sure what to put in for the boil size, because I do a partial boil of 2 gallons (I'm brewing with extract), then mix with water to bring the batch size up to 5 gallons. The boil size has a big effect on the final IBU's, so I'm trying to determine 2 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For partial boils, what would I put into one of these calculator for boil size?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why does the boil size effect the IBUs? I would have thought only the final batch size would matter, because the same amount of alpha acids are being dissolved regardless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="195" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T10:22:10.273" Title="Effect of boil size on IBUs" Tags="|hops|boil|bitterness|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3625" CreationDate="2011-03-07T18:05:01.263" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put in the volume of the water you're boiling. Hopville knows how to handle partial boils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your second question, I think that's still up for debate. Beer bitterness and hop utilization is not fully understood. The original theory was that the high concentration of sugar in a partial boil (or any high-gravity boil) would prevent the alpha acids from entering into solution with the wort. The idea there being that all the sugars just took up too much room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/719&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recent episode of Brew Strong&lt;/a&gt;, John Palmer talks a bit about how that might not be the the case. So, like I said, it's up for debate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, just to make this a bit more complex, the different IBC calculation formulas (Rager, Tinseth, etc.) handle boil volume and gravity differently. My advice there is to pick a single formula and stick with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T18:05:01.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3625" CreationDate="2011-03-07T18:05:39.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your calculations should use the amount of the partial boil.  The calculated IBUs change because the alpha acids are not utilized as effectively when the gravity of the wort is higher.  Higher gravity readings result in lower isomerization of the alpha acids.  When doing a partial boil, the sugars are concentrated and your hop utilization rate drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T18:05:39.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3625" CreationDate="2011-03-07T18:59:38.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not the boil volume per se that matters, it's the boil gravity.  Of course, boil volume can affect that, but you can also have 2 boils of the same volume with different gravities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T18:59:38.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3526" CreationDate="2011-03-07T20:47:25.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brewmaster friend of mine runs a highly respected production micro brewery. I have had the good fortune to brew on his production 10 barrel system a number of times. Water is added first to a point, then grain is added one sack at a time and stirred in as aggressively as possible without splashing as water continues to flow into the mash tun through a sprinkler ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For him, at production scale, he is concerned about both keeping the consistency of the mash thin enough to work with (it's like stirring wet concrete with a giant paddle, extremely difficult) and keeping the pH/temp of the mash within his desired range throughout the mash-in process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although being extremely concerned with those variables may be less important to you in your home brewery, I use his technique to the best of my ability with my 10 gallon system and I am certainly pleased with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with the previous posts. I'm just overly particular and love to learn whatever I can from the pros!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1109" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T20:47:25.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3625" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:09:18.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a good article available to download for free on the Zymurgy website that outlines the different formulas.  I believe the title of the article is &quot;what is your IBU&quot; and is found by clicking the free downloads link on their home page &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1022" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T00:09:18.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3633" CreationDate="2011-03-08T03:05:04.600" Score="4" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started doing a trial run of my first batch and I had a question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a kettle that holds about 6 gallons.  If my batch size is to be 5 gallons and we assume 1 gallon will boil off, then this needs to be filled up to the 6 gallon mark after all of the ingredients go in, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I may be only using 4 gallons of water, and the extra volume will be taken up by DME, right (ie., not 6 gallons of water + ingredients, 6 gallons total)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1083" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T13:06:12.400" Title="Measure water before or after adding Malt Extract?" Tags="|first-time|full-boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2011-03-08T03:42:38.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't forget that you'll need headspace for the hot break, otherwise you'll be risking a boilover.  Especially if you're not quick with a skimming device and able to easily control the heat right at pre-boil  (remember that electric eyes will carry over a bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be better off aiming for a 4 gallon batch size or doing a more concentrated boil and topping off with pre-boiled water in the fermentor.   You may have to revisit your hop calculations if you do the latter, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're putting tons in, I don't think just DME will add a full gallon to the volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T03:42:38.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2011-03-08T13:06:12.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing how your pot doesn't really seem to be large enough to do what you propose, I would add 4 gallons of water and start heating it.  Once you get it hot enough to dissolve the DME, I'd add that in and see ho wmuch room you have left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A measuring stick of some sort would help here to see it now you are at 4.5 gallons or 5 gallons.  The DME will take up some volume depending on how much of it you add obviously.  If you know the volume post DME addition, then you can go and maybe top of to 5 gallons or 5.5 in the kettle to give you more volume during the boil off.  But I don't think you can go to the full 6 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take real careful notes on this batch and then you'll have a good idea of how much water you could start with on the next batch.  Worry about accounting for boil off on that batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the boil see how much you have and figure out your boil off rate.  Then top off to 5 gallons or whatever you normally shoot for (I used to formulate my extract batches for 5.5 gallons in the fermentor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T13:06:12.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3640" CreationDate="2011-03-08T15:11:16.193" Score="5" ViewCount="1770" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the calculator that I have been using for my recipes (&lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beer Calculus&lt;/a&gt;) allows me to change my batch size, but does not let me adjust WHEN I add my fermentables, as to allow for higher hop utilization on a partial boil by adding a fair amount of DME and sugars at the 15/10 minute mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any input on what I should do with this?  Should I just calculate this by hand?  I suppose I could tell the calculator I am doing a full boil, half the water and fermentables, and use the same amount of hops since the gravity should be identical, and then add the other half of fermentables towards the end, finishing with pre-boiled water in the fermenter to achieve my batch size.  Is this an appropriate way to go about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1083" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T15:29:18.267" Title="Beer calculators and batch/boil size with late fermentable additions" Tags="|first-time-brewer|late-addition|partial-boil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3634" CreationDate="2011-03-08T19:23:33.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that the difference in IBU extraction is too small to worry about in a home brewing setting.  This is the formula from 'Designing Great Beers' by Ray Daniels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hop utilization based on boil time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hop utilization based on boil time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less than 10 minutes: 0.06&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 to 19 minutes: 0.15&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 to 29 minutes: 0.19&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30 to 44 minutes: 0.24&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;45 to 59 minutes: 0.27&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 to 74 minutes: 0.30&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;75 minutes of more: 0.34&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formula for calculating the IBU contribution:&#xA;(hop amount * hop utilization * (aau / 100) * 7489) / (boil amount * correctional gravity)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case the hop amount is in ounces and boil amount in gallons. For the correctional gravity, if your boil gravity is greater than 1.05, use the following:&#xA;corrective_gravity = 1 + ((boil_gravity - 1.05)/2)&#xA;otherwise, &#xA;correction gravity = 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing with the recipe builder on BrewersHub.com (http://brewershub.com/recipe_builders/new), (which uses the above formula), if you just add dry malt extract and cascade hops, you can play with the boil gravity and see the IBU change.  For Cascade hops, boiled for 60 minutes, there is a negligible change with 7 pounds of extract, and a small change (2 IBUs) boiling 15 pounds of DME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone else has a better formula, I'd be really interested to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="765" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T19:23:33.830" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3549" CreationDate="2011-03-08T20:50:15.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Triple IPA is more marketing buzz than actual style.  You could characterize it as anything on the extreme high end of the alcohol scale (&gt;10% ABV) for Imperial IPA. Pliny the Younger would be the prototypical version of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is to make sure you are still in IPA territory and not barley wine.  To ensure this you need to use a large amount of simple sugars -- or &quot;White Malt&quot; as Vinnie calls it.  And then just hop the hell out of it.  If you ever ask yourself &quot;Is there too much hops in this?&quot; the answer is NO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T20:50:15.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="640" CreationDate="2011-03-08T21:06:06.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewernauts.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewernauts.com/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just made this in the last couple months, it has calculations, exporting/importing, recipes, ingredients, and a historical brewing log of each beer you brewed and how it differed from the recipe you were attempting to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1110" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T21:06:06.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="640" CreationDate="2011-03-09T00:15:22.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;ProMash runs under Wine, if that qualifies as running in Linux.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T00:15:22.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3634" CreationDate="2011-03-09T14:49:33.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you are looking for a work around not a discussion about gravity, volume and utilization rates.  So here goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I work around this is to formulate my recipe as if I wasn't going to add the extract late.  That way I know how much total extract I plan to use.  Then I delete 80% of the extract (or whatever) and see what happens to the IBUs, and adjust the amount of hops if I feel its necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then for the brew sheet, I'll add the extract back into the recipe, but I put a comment in the notes section the amount of extract I will be adding up front then as a late addition.  And I note what the IBUs will are calculated to be after doing it that way.  There is no good way to do it in the current software that is available.  At least that I have seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T14:49:33.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3634" CreationDate="2011-03-09T15:29:18.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure that I'm contributing much here, since both other answers were so thorough, but I wanted to point out a few things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, whatever route you decide to take, be consistent in your methodology from batch to batch.  There are quite a few formulas that have been published for calculating IBUs, and none are 100% accurate, especially given all of the variables.  Even your kettle geometry will affect utilization.  You should find a method you like, and stick with it, so that even with error, you can compare relative numbers from batch to batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do hand calcs, I'm providing the formula that I use.  I can't remember the source, but I know at the time it appeared to be the most accurate method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BIT = (1.65 * 0.000125^(BG-1))*(1 - EXP(-0.04 * TIME))/0.0415*QTY*AA/(VOL*1.34)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where&lt;br&gt;&#xA;BIT = Bitterness in IBUs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;BG = gravity at the time of each addition, e.g. 1.050&lt;br&gt;&#xA;TIME = boil time, in minutes&lt;br&gt;&#xA;QTY = amount of hops, in oz&lt;br&gt;&#xA;AA = alpha Acids of the hops, expressed as a percent&lt;br&gt;&#xA;VOL = volume of wort at addition time, in gallons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then sum BIT for each addition.  You can drop the formula right into excel and replace the variables as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...And this is why I write my own brew calculator software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T15:29:18.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3643" CreationDate="2011-03-09T20:33:05.373" Score="5" ViewCount="3942" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about introducing sambuca (maybe grappa) into my next homebrew.  What are the common practices for adding?  secondary? bottling?  Recommendations for getting the &quot;right&quot; amount without dosing the whole batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="921" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T15:53:38.803" Title="Common practices for adding liquor to homebrew?" Tags="|additives|best-practices|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3641" CreationDate="2011-03-09T20:56:51.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience with adding Bourbon to beer I find it is best done to taste at bottling.  This should give you a decent idea of how it will taste after carbonation.  I would also recommend having someone help with the tasting since your palate can become fatigued quite quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T20:56:51.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3641" CreationDate="2011-03-09T20:58:31.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put a known volume of beer in tasting glasses or cups.   Use measuring spoons to dose each cup with a different amount until you get the level of flavor that you want.  Keep notes so that you can do it again.   I'm pretty sure that it will scale linearly, so if &lt;i&gt;e.g.&lt;/i&gt; an ounce tastes good in 12oz of beer, then around 50oz will taste good in a full (5-gallon) batch.   I'd add it to the keg or the bottling bucket, depending on how you intend to serve your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T21:57:40.667" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T21:57:40.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3641" CreationDate="2011-03-09T21:19:35.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make a Bourbon Vanilla Imperial Porter that's very popular in the homebrew community.  I use both of the techniques described above and it makes it easy to determine the correct amount.  I especially agree with having someone else help you with the tasting.  I use 2 oz. samples of beer (usually 4 of them) and dose them each with a different measured amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T21:19:35.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-09T22:23:10.960" Score="2" ViewCount="678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering making some yeast slants to try to start a little bit of a yeast bank. In my research i have read about folks making a starter from the yeast in the bottom of a bottle conditioned beer, then inoculating the slants from that.  I have also read about washing the yeast cake, but cant seem to find if there is another step between washing the yeast and inoculating slants.  Is it better to just wait and use the yeast in the bottom of the bottles, or use the washed yeast cake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the yeast in the carboy might be a healthier sample having not been in the alcohol as long, but there would also be a lot more unwanted material. If this is the best route, is it necessary to harvest from a starter from the washed yeast, or can i inoculate the slants straight from the washed yeast, or do i need to wash it at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast in the bottles would be cleaner, but might have more mutations etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1022" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2011-03-10T21:44:30.193" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T12:49:28.847" Title="Is it better to make yeast slants from a bottle after single stage fermentation or from the primary?" Tags="|yeast|cultivation|slants|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3645" CreationDate="2011-03-09T22:41:54.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd use the yeast from the fermentor, as it's going to be the healthiest yeast.   Make sure your fermentation is complete first, so you get a good cross-section of early and late flocculators.    The yeast in the bottles will largely consist of the least flocculant cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you're just saving yeast from beer that you're brewing, you could make slants directly off your wyeast pack or white labs vial, as well.   Or pull some top-crop from your starter vessel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/search/yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Strong has done several shows which are germaine to this.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you're wanting to get samples from commercial beers that are bottle conditioned, remember that many breweries use a different yeast for the primary fermentation than the one they use for conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T22:41:54.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3648" CreationDate="2011-03-10T01:18:21.793" Score="2" ViewCount="2207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did my first batch on a campchef propane burner &lt;a href=&quot;http://cascadeclimbers.com/gear/hiking/product/Camp-Chef-Yukon-Stove.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cascadeclimbers.com/gear/hiking/product/Camp-Chef-Yukon-Stove.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;  Problem is that in the during the boil it never crossed my mind that I didn't have to have the burner on high the whole time. Towards the end of the boil when stirring I could feel some gritty harder bits in the bottom of the pot, I assume to be scorched sugars. &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; Question is: What type of flavor am I going to be looking for to know if this is what happened, and what other ill effects other than off flavors can I expect this to have caused?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T01:12:42.180" Title="What does scorched wort taste like?" Tags="|wort|off-flavor|burner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3647" CreationDate="2011-03-10T01:58:06.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It usually tastes like ashy burnt sugar.&#xA;But if you racked the beer out of the kettle and there wasn't a big black spot in the bottom of the kettle then you have no worries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T01:58:06.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2011-03-10T02:01:42.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason why people say that you shouldnt reuse a purchased yeast strain past a few generations is because it can mutate into a new strain which no longer gives you the same properties as the one you wanted. So if you want to create a new strain, keep reusing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better still, split a strain over a number of fermentors, keep them isolated from each other for a number of generations. Then pick the one you like best, split this up and repeat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's evolution by selection, the thing that Christians don't believe in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T02:01:42.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3645" CreationDate="2011-03-10T02:07:17.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing how you'd be scaling up quite a bit from a slant to a solid starter culture, I am not sure it would really matter whether you take it from a bottle or from a primary yeast cake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think the better idea is to streak out a plate first.  Reason being is because if you pick up some bacteria or other microbe from the carboy/bottle, you'll be able to see it as a different colony on the plate.  Then you can pick a pure colony to drag out on a slant.  Where you might just get a mixed culture on the slant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to the OP's edits:&#xA;You don't need to wash the yeast prior to grabbing some for innoculation.  But again, its best to be doing a streak on a plate, then pick a colony for a slant. Slants are really for storage.  Prior to storing a pure colony, you have some culture work to do.  Streaking on a plate helps to be sure you don't have any bacteria because you'll seperate it out into single cells.  Those single cells grow into individual colonies.  Also, the yeast you are grabbing from the carboy will also have some hop resins stuck to the cell walls.  Streaking to a single colony will help &quot;dilute&quot; that out as one cell grows into several cells.  Thereby you streak onto a slant cells with much reduced hop resins.  Washing would be a waste of time when you have the equipment to do streaking and colony picking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-03-11T12:49:28.847" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T12:49:28.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="640" CreationDate="2011-03-10T03:12:25.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/windows/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/windows/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Windows. It's free, easy to use, uncomplicated. I like being able to enter recipes by percentage too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1117" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T16:24:04.533" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T16:24:04.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3641" CreationDate="2011-03-10T15:53:38.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always done the mini test being careful to note the volumes and ratio as I build the blend in the pint glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I comes time to execute the whole batch I usually would only add 90-95% of what I calculated from my single glass ratio to the whole batch.  Then I would taste it and ease up to the final flavor profile I was looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always add more but you can't take it away.  Its worked well for me in the past.  if you are doing it in a keg its real easy because you can purge with CO2 and mix well, then taste it.  If you are doing the addition in a bottling bucket I do it prior to adding my priming sugar because that will screw up the tasting a bit.  And I gently mix with a long spoon.  Maybe there is a lot of oxidation but its fine for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T15:53:38.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2011-03-10T16:02:07.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my own yeast also (WY1450 Denny's Favorite) and it came about the same way as Pacman or Cry Havoc.  We all found a yeast we liked and kept it banked for a number of years, then released it to a company to market it.  There is not necessarily anything different about any of these yeasts than was originally there.  None of us combined strains or tried to mutate a strain into something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T16:02:07.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3601" CreationDate="2011-03-11T15:28:59.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's almost certainly safe, barring funky odors, colors, etc. If everything was properly sterilized, the yeast should have consumed the fermentables.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That's a pretty temperature of ambient air - the wort temperature is apt to be higher, which isn't great for making good beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm somewhat surprised that there's live yeast in a bottle of Coopers - must be if you were able to cultivate it. It'll be interesting to see what comes out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So bottle, and drink. It'll be beer, of some sort. If you're really worried, taste-test before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T15:28:59.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-12T03:15:38.470" Score="1" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am at day 12 of my first brew from a True Brew Belgian Ale.  I checked the gravity at day 6 (the kit said I could be ready to bottle after 7 days even though everyone says let it go for a few weeks).  The reading I got was 1.020.  I let it go and checked it again (day 12) and got the same reading of 1.020.  According to the kit, FG should be between 1.007 and 1.011.  Is that 0.010 a big issue? It has been at the same gravity reading for 7 days days, what are the chances it will drop any more if I leave it in the primary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Differences between Day 6 and Day 12 are: &#xA;- The beer is clearer, not as foggy and looks a lot like other Belgian Ales I have had.&#xA;- On Day 6, there was quite a bit of 'fizziness' when I tasted it.  On Day 12, the 'fizziness' is much less but the bitterness is quite high (more so than the pale ale I am drinking right now)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the bitterness dissipate some if I leave it in the primary longer or during bottle conditioning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1080" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T04:14:26.163" Title="Final Gravity A Little Off" Tags="|specific-gravity|bitterness|belgian|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3655" CreationDate="2011-03-12T04:14:26.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That level of attenuation( (61-20)/61 = 0.67 ) is a bit low for a Belgian beer.   You might be able to get it to finish off the last few points by raising the temperature to 70-72F for a few days and rousing the yeast a couple of times a day by rocking the fermentor to get it swirled up and back into suspension.   That may or may not work, since the gravity has been steady for a week.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern with bottling now would be that the priming sugar will wake the yeast back up, and they might try and finish it on out and create bottle bombs.   That may be overly paranoiac, though, and some others may have more experience on that front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bitterness will dissipate over time, but generally the scale for that is months, rather than days or weeks.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T04:14:26.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="100" CreationDate="2011-03-12T13:20:16.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buckets are great for primary fermentation. You can dangle your sterilized oak chips in sterilized nylon sock very easily and remove at will. You can add a couple of pints of crushed blackberries into your Merlot, to shake things up. the bucket is easy to lift in comparison and provides a good carry all when not in use. I have two buckets &amp;amp; three carbouys and use them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Salutee&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1126" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T13:20:16.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3780" CreationDate="2011-03-12T13:28:15.963" Score="3" ViewCount="700" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a solid application for pre-planning your homebrews? I have a really tight schedule, and determining when to start a batch can be a real hairball. There are lots of variables and points in time to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, on a particular beer: I know I want my yeast on a plate for 36 hours, then 24 in the fridge, then equalizing for 6 before pitching, then 10 days in ferment, then 7 on dry hops, then 2 weeks keg conditioning, then ... you get the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to be able to put these variables into something, then set either a start or end time for the entire process, and see where it all falls on a calendar. Then I can shift the whole process around until it fits my schedule, without changing the time between the individual variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this all manually on google calendar right now, but it's tedious and error prone to make changes. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1109" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T02:08:44.403" Title="Homebrew Calendar/Planning Software/Site?" Tags="|calculations|software|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3658" CreationDate="2011-03-12T13:37:06.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that there is a calendar feature in the new version of Beer Smith available at &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beersmith.com/&lt;/a&gt; I am not sure if it will break down into all of those elements and shift them around at the same time though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T13:37:06.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="100" CreationDate="2011-03-12T13:43:15.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Choosing between buckets, glass carboys, etc is always a matter of personal choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ease of use on buckets is high, but the durability is poor and they are much harder to keep sanitary over multiple uses. Any tiny scratch will make the bucket hold microbes you can't see or kill with a simple acid rinse, and now your fermentation vessel is a ticking time bomb, waiting to go off and ruin a batch. There is also no way to get into a bucket without opening a giant hole to the outside world for any old thing to fall into. Fermentations are also not something you get to watch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass carboys are the &quot;classic&quot; choice, and they don't have many of the drawbacks mentioned above. However, they are harder to clean than buckets, and there is risk of serious injury if you break one. However in terms of long term durability and sanitation, they can't be beat by anything but a conical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal choice is plastic carboys. I use 6gal &quot;better bottles&quot;, which have the advantage of weighing pretty much nothing, they are nearly unbreakable, you can watch the ferment, and you're not going to get hurt by one. They are easier to clean than glass carboys &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you use a bottle washer attachment for your sink. They are lightweight, easy to hold upside down, and easy to see when they are clean. One lesson I learned the hard way however: If you are used to using a bottle brush on your glass carboys, do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; put that brush in the better bottle! You will scratch the inside, and ruin it just like you would a bucket. Use hot water and a good cleaner like Five Star PBW, and you've got an easy to maintain system that will last a very long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1109" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T13:43:15.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3662" CreationDate="2011-03-12T14:58:27.900" Score="11" ViewCount="10630" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately I've been doing some very large boils -- 7 gallons in a 7.5 gallon kettle. To prevent boilovers, I've been using Fermcap-s. It's great, and I've had no boilover problems, but I have no idea how Fermcap works or what's in it. What is this stuff? Other than preventing boilover and excessive kreusen, does it have any effect on my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T02:24:38.800" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T15:38:26.150" Title="What is Fermcap-S and what does it do?" Tags="|beer|additives|boilover|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3661" CreationDate="2011-03-12T16:02:46.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermcap-S is a silicone (Dimethylpolysiloxane) based emulsion that works by breaking surface tension. It has no effect on the finished product if used in the boil at designated dosage. If used in the fermenter, I have read that it will increase residual bitterness by ~10%. This is likely due to the compound binding to the yeast cells before the dissolved bittering compounds do, thereby leaving more bitterness in the beer. I have not verified this myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stick to recommended dosage, or you will exceed FDA guidelines for silicone content in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This thread at BeerAdvocate covers the topic: &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/forum/read/2582451&quot;&gt;Fermcap-S&lt;/a&gt; (login required)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1109" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T16:02:46.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2011-03-12T16:35:04.953" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast mutations are a product of environment. You can apply selective pressure yourself to encourage particular traits, or you can simply re-pitch multiple generations in a very clean environment while varying the fermentation schedule to effect a change. To then store the yeast long term, you would isolate a single colony from a culture plate, grow it up and verify it performs as you like. Then you can store that culture long term on slants or plates, and continually refresh it over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplified example: I start with a commercial strain from one of the &quot;banks&quot; (White Labs, Wyeast, ... ). Let's say it's already a very flocculent strain and I want to maintain that, and I want to mutate it to create a more completely fermented beer. I want to select for the strain with the most &quot;staying power&quot; that is still going to floc well. So, I brew a beer, and I harvest yeast only from the very top of the yeast cake in the fermenter, after the beer has started to clear but still close to the end of fermentation. This should represent the yeast that stayed in solution the longest (still fermenting), while also retaining it's flocculent characteristics (it flocculated, and fell to the cake rather than staying in solution). I then isolate a single colony, and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm lucky, I can thus develop a strain that does even more of what I like, while retaining the flavor profile of the original. If I'm not so lucky, I get the characteristics I was hoping for, but also get some unwanted tag-alongs like off flavors etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many other variables to consider, but this is the gist of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Classically, new strains were developed &quot;by accident&quot;. A brewery would repeat the same process over and over again, while maintaining it's own cultures. Over years, that brewery's strain would become uniquely suited to that environment. This is still happening today, although more and more breweries now re-pitch only a few times, and then start over with fresh yeast from a bank to avoid the cost of maintaining their own cultures. In those environments, any mutations are discarded after a few generations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1109" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T16:35:04.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3665" CreationDate="2011-03-13T02:07:18.650" Score="5" ViewCount="2661" Body="&lt;p&gt;After downing a bottle of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adelaidebiershop.com.au/product.php?productid=16166&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Saison Dupont&lt;/a&gt; last night and wishing to re-use the bottle, I wondered if any home brewers have &quot;capped&quot; their brews using corks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottle looks like it might be re-usable with regular caps, but using corks is a nice flourish.  Corking could mean potentially re-using champagne bottles too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried corking their brews?  What's involved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-03-13T02:16:50.027" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T03:06:06.957" Title="How can I bottle using corks?" Tags="|beer|bottling|capping|cork|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3664" CreationDate="2011-03-13T02:54:48.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am also in the process of collecting belgian beer bottles for the purpose of bottling.  This has the nice side effect of having to consume some awesome beer to obtain the bottles (I know I can buy them but this way is more fun).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Northern Brewer sells the corks and hoods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/bottling/bottle-caps-closures/corks-for-belgian-beer-bottles-30-ct.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Corks&lt;/a&gt;, &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/bottling/bottle-caps-closures/hooded-wires-for-belgian-beer-bottles-60-ct.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wire Hoods&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily I already have this corker from my wine making adventure:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/winemaking/double-lever-corker.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Double Lever corker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And they say this tool is helpful for tightening the hoods but not necessary:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/winemaking/champagne-wire-tightener.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Champagne Wire Tightener&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I've only gone so far as to look for the equipment and the process, I haven't tried this yet but I've read the post on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/beer-styles/article/indices/11-beer-styles/1941-corking-belgians&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BYO here&lt;/a&gt;.  It seems the process is the same as bottle in regular bottles, prime with the correct amount of sugar and the key is getting the cork depth set correctly.  Can't wait to get enough bottles to try this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastEditorUserId="302" LastEditDate="2011-03-13T03:06:06.957" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T03:06:06.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4124" CreationDate="2011-03-13T16:43:10.947" Score="22" ViewCount="43139" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which hops do you guys find are the most citrusy? I'm looking to create a super-citrusy IPA, and have limited experience with most hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1104" LastEditorUserId="981" LastEditDate="2011-05-04T02:19:29.067" LastActivityDate="2017-04-09T20:36:08.883" Title="What are the most citrusy hops?" Tags="|hops|flavor|ipa|americanipa|" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-03-13T18:02:05.040" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cascade hops have a grapefruit aroma, and Amarillo, orange. Those are the stronngest citrussy hops I know of. I'd imagine you get most of the citrus flavour &amp;amp; aroma out of large amounts of late-boil, finishing, and dry hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T18:02:05.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-03-13T22:32:27.640" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per its name, Citra is also a good citrus-y variety. If you want to know what it adds, compare a Sierra Nevada pale ale (Cascade) to a Sierra Nevada Torpedo IPA (dry-hopped with Citra).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T22:32:27.640" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3670" CreationDate="2011-03-14T12:44:11.803" Score="6" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing a bit of reading about the effect light can have during fermentation &amp;amp; came across the term 'skunking'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is skunking?  What happens to the beer and how do you know if you've skunked a batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1291/skunking-beer-process&quot;&gt;Other questions&lt;/a&gt; address how it occurs &amp;amp; how to prevent it, I'm just not sure what it actually is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T01:16:43.553" Title="What is skunking?" Tags="|skunk|spoilage|light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3669" CreationDate="2011-03-14T13:22:46.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/articles/527&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://beeradvocate.com/articles/527&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skunking is described in this article as UV radiation caused breakdown of &quot;hop derived molecules, called isohumulones&quot;, which then bond with sulfur, giving you a skunk-like smell.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other articles have said over and over, keep your beer cool and dark.  You should have a safe, cool, dark storage place for your beer to ferment (if you're like me without temperature controlled fermentation), condition, and age if you so choose.  If you fear several of your bottles have been exposed to too much light, you can then have a taste test with one from your &quot;cellar&quot; (laundry room closet for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article also mentions the misinformed opinion that Heineken, and other German or dutch Pilsner style beers are &quot;skunked&quot;, when in truth the flavors common to them are intended, having nothing to do with spoiling or light exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/mlusby/5527472985/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Heineken Bottle vs Can by mlusby, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5297/5527472985_2e3d07a2cf.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;333&quot; alt=&quot;Heineken Bottle vs Can&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After being challenged in the comments to compare a bottle and can of Heineken, I have to concede, I and the article were wrong.  I did purchase from a specialty beer and wine store, but their display cases weren't much different than a gas station.  I poured both into a glass, which should have normalized the experience (refer to the article).  I immediately noticed the smell difference, and took them to my wife, who was easily able to pick out the skunk smell without knowing anything about my experiment.  The taste is remarkably similar, considering how much smell can affect taste.  The smell is not a question, bottle skunk confirmed.  I love my Grolsch bottles, but I'll be extra careful to keep them in the dark from now on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.793" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T01:16:43.553" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3675" CreationDate="2011-03-14T14:05:21.877" Score="4" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love FermCap for controlling boilovers. I add a few drops (less than recommended) as the wort comes up to boiling. It allows me to do other things during the boil to shorten my brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I'm wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The directions say to add a drop per gallon at the &quot;start of fermentation&quot;. Does my boil addition count for that? Can I just add the recommended amount for my final volume to the boil and trust that all of it will make it into the fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T07:41:31.633" Title="Does a single FermCap addition control both boilovers and blowoffs?" Tags="|boilover|blow-off|foam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3674" CreationDate="2011-03-14T18:34:57.650" Score="2" ViewCount="2228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to make an American Rye Beer, and I'm wondering which sort of rye I should use.   My LHBS carries flaked rye, and the nearby big-box brew supplier carries both flaked and malted rye.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grist is basically going to be 50% 2-row and 50% rye.   I have a grain crusher and usually brew all-grain batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it matter what form the rye comes in?   Are there any advantages to one over the other if I'm going to be mashing anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T21:15:03.057" Title="Malted or Flaked Rye?" Tags="|beer|ingredients|rye|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3672" CreationDate="2011-03-14T19:46:58.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Briess flaked rye imparts significant rye flavor at low percentages such as 5-10%, up to 40%. Flaked rye can cause a sticky mash, especially at higher percentages. Malted Rye is going to be your better bet IMO because it is designed to be mashed. It is going to give you a more true rye flavor. Especially if you are going for some of the flavors of a Rye whiskey, I'd say Rye malt is a must for an all-grain brewer, as that is what the distillers use. Malted Rye can stick up your mash at very high percentages too, so you may consider rice hulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On percentages, most of the commercial Rye beers you see use 10-20% rye malt, and that gives a pretty distinctive flavor, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue1.3/hayden.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; says homebrewers have used up to 50%, but the flavor will be very intense. Sounds like it's worth a shot to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T19:46:58.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3672" CreationDate="2011-03-14T21:15:03.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a LOT of experience with rye, and that experience says that malted rye gives more flavor than flaked.  I find that you need at least 20% rye to make it noticeable and I don't care for much more than about 40%.  Your 50/50 might be overbearing.  I've also found that use of specialty grains can accentuate the rye and really help bring it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T21:15:03.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3671" CreationDate="2011-03-14T21:16:28.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, a kettle addition of Fermcap does not eliminate the need for it in the fermenter.  If you need it there, you have to add more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T21:16:28.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3280" CreationDate="2011-03-15T09:41:58.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used tannin or acid blend to increase tartness, if this what you mean by &quot;bite&quot;. Both of these were available at the home brewing vendors that I frequent. Made a cactus pear cider with these that has a nice edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T09:41:58.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="366" CreationDate="2011-03-15T09:45:59.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just started a site for Cider brewing and adding my tested recipes frequently. Please take a look and let me know what you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hoodconsultinggroup.com/homebrewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Index of homebrewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-07T12:20:15.203" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T12:20:15.203" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-15T09:45:59.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3686" CreationDate="2011-03-15T10:50:05.970" Score="3" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;My future stepson is growing hops this coming season here in WA state. I'm a chemist and am thinking of doing the hop analysis for him. I'd like to poll you all and see if there is much interest in having your homegrown hops analyzed. Talked to two local brewing suppliers and they seemed to think that there is growing interest among their home growers in knowing what the IBU's are in their hops. If this seems to be true (interest is increasing), then I'll probably make the investment and get my own instrument for the analysis. Please let me know what you folk think. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T22:16:58.920" Title="Hop Analysis for Home Brewers - Interest Poll" Tags="|beer|hops|alpha-acids|growing-hops|ibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-03-16T16:29:51.260" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-15T15:03:35.857" Score="5" ViewCount="1520" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does high altitude affect brewing chemistry? Up here in Denver (5280') or even higher in the mountains (some towns in Colorado are 9000' and higher), water does different things. In Denver, water boils at around 202˚F (~94.4˚C). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do these atmospheric changes affect things like hop utilization, mash temperature, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T03:44:56.817" Title="Brewing at Altitude" Tags="|boil|temperature|hop-utilization|chemistry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3680" CreationDate="2011-03-15T15:19:01.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mashing shouldn't be affected by the altitude.  However, hop utilization at lower temperatures is fairly significant.  Ray Daniels republished a correction factor in homebrewdigest &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/4125.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what part of Denver you live, you'll see about an 18% - 20% reduction in utilization versus that at sea level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference I noticed brewing in Denver wasn't that my beer was less hoppy, though - it was the electrical-tape flavor from the chloramine in Denver water.  So hopefully you've already taken care of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T15:19:01.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3583" CreationDate="2011-03-15T16:36:21.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still using most of the Grolch and Pelican bottles I was given by a publican back in the 1980s.   Overall, I probably loose two or three per year (a couple of lagering lagers burst during unprecedented cold in December) but I need to replace the rubber seals every few years.   I wash and sterilise using metabisulphite, and I believe that, properly primed, glass bottles should last for ever.   The polycarbonate ones seem durable, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1132" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T16:36:21.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="366" CreationDate="2011-03-15T18:37:56.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer, mead, cider, and wine recipes, including national award winners...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See these &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/Recipes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recipes&lt;/a&gt; from the American Homebrewing Association.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-07T12:17:11.343" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T12:17:11.343" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-15T18:37:56.830" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3583" CreationDate="2011-03-15T21:00:01.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't keep track of how many times I reuse bottles, but a good way to cycle through them is to throw a BBQ and have friends bring in a fresh batch of bottles.  I've definitely reused bottles at least 3 times and have had no contamination problems.  I don't see any problems with sanitation if you wash used bottles shortly after drinking to prevent residue from really caking one.  It's possible that over time you could scratch the glass from cleaning and bacteria could live there, but it's very unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as resealable growlers and larger bottles, I notice that over time the rubber seal starts to get hard and degrade a bit.  You could potentially replace this seal, but I found it not worth the trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T21:00:01.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3679" CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:16:58.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been considering growing hops myself (in Madison, WI) and depending on how successful I am with that, I'd potentially be interested in having an analysis done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T22:16:58.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-16T07:28:43.137" Score="4" ViewCount="560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made some blackberry wine last year. I tasted sone last night and there is a very slight fizz to it, is it at all possible to get rid of this fizz, if so how? I'm clearly a total novice, and any help/advice is very much appreciated indeed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1134" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T06:56:15.973" Title="Homemade blackberry wine" Tags="|red-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3687" CreationDate="2011-03-16T12:31:41.990" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it already bottled, or is it still in a carboy or other bulk vessel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you made the wine from fresh fruit and it's still in a bulk vessel, your best bet is to just wait.  Leave it in a carboy with an airlock and the gas will come out of suspension.  Racking it will help relieve the wine of its CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, but be careful not to expose it to too much oxygen whilst racking.  Wine tends to give up its gas after a year of bulk aging and a handful of rackings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you made the wine from a kit and it should be ready by now, or if you've already bottled it, you can de-gas the wine.  There are a few ways to do this.  First, if you let the temperature of the wine go up a little, the wine will give up some CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; naturally.  Don't go too high, as staling and oxidation rates increase as temps go up.  If you currently have it at 55F, allow it to go to, say, 67F for a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can force the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; out of suspension with some help from a vacuum.  If it is in bottles, you can use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vacuvin.com/Vacuum_Wine_Saver_286_270_267.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vacu Vin&lt;/a&gt; or similar product to pull the gas out.  If it's in a bulk vessel, you can hook up a vacuum pump.  Search the web for &quot;Degassing wine&quot; for more information and detailed instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T12:31:41.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:51:35.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Amarillo in an IPA before and when it came to bottling my wife said, the whole appartment smelled like grapefruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="716" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T18:51:35.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3691" CreationDate="2011-03-16T19:32:43.250" Score="3" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll try this again. If you grow your own hops, would you pay to have them analyzed? If you have had your hops analyzed, did the analysis help you in subsequent brewing? Was it worth the cost (e.g. how expensive was it, what is a reasonable cost per sample, and would you do it again)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW -  thanks for the editing suggestion, theraccoonbrew :-) I'm not marketing, have honest questions about whether there is a decent level of interest in this and what those who have had it done have experienced. Not certain where a better forum to ask this is, but would certainly appreciate suggestions where to ask if you don't think it belongs here at Homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T19:55:25.913" Title="Help with Hop Analysis" Tags="|beer|hops|alpha-acids|growing-hops|ibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3690" CreationDate="2011-03-16T19:55:25.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Between myself and my co-brewer Scott and his father we have a total of nine plants, of mostly different varieties.  We get a nice crop of hops out of it.  But to be honest, not enough to bother having them analyzed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a dried state, we get a few of ounces of dried hop flowers per plant, enough for a few beers each.  Coupled with the fact we are growing a couple of varieties that makes it tough.  We would have to devote a LOT more time, effort and space to growing more of the same hops before it became worthwhile.  With the small quantities, it's hard to sacrifice any of it for analysis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't aware of any practical way for a home-grower to even realistically have them analyzed.  I hate to say it, but given the cost of hops and the small quantity most home brewers grow, the cost would have to be less than $10.00 to even consider it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, it WOULD be nice to know if our cultivars are growing within the expected range for the variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T19:55:25.913" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-03-16T22:44:38.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very much like the results from Willamette (along with Cascade).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1137" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T22:44:38.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3703" CreationDate="2011-03-17T00:37:08.423" Score="3" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was planning on aging my barley wine in a carboy. Is it appropriate to dry hop upon transfer to the secondary for aging.  Or would it be better to dry hop after I consider the aging process to be done, i.e. prior to bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T16:01:11.910" Title="When to dry hop a barley wine" Tags="|techniques|aging|dry-hopping|cellaring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3697" CreationDate="2011-03-17T00:38:58.153" Score="4" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do normal incandescent lights cause skunking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T06:46:48.700" Title="light sources and skunking beer" Tags="|storage|aroma|skunk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3702" CreationDate="2011-03-17T01:07:26.260" Score="4" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of putting a hop back in line with my whirlpool chilling process.  (Pumping hot wort out of the kettle through a hop back and back into the kettle with an immersion chiller running in the kettle).  Should I be concerned with that first blast of hot wort going into the hop back and getting oxidized by the air trapped in the hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it would be best to chill some first, then go through the hop back.  But then I'd be worried about contamination and maybe poorer aroma extraction with the cooler wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts/solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T19:45:19.903" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T19:45:19.903" Title="hop back and hot side aeration" Tags="|hopback|hot-side-aeration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3693" CreationDate="2011-03-17T01:16:17.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaving dry hops in there for more than a 3-4 weeks usually isn't a good idea, you start to get more vegetal hop notes. I'd do it closer to bottling -- perhaps do several small dry hop additions over the course of the 3 weeks leading up to bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T01:16:17.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3694" CreationDate="2011-03-17T06:46:48.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the wavelengths generated by a standard incandescent fit within those that are known to &quot;skunk&quot; beer, a process that is a photochemical reaction that causes specific chemical bonds to change, resulting in flavenoids (flavors) that are generally distasteful. They emit about one third to one half of the intensity of sunlight in the &amp;lt;500 nm range that causes skunking. There are sunlight bulbs that emit about the same intensity as sunlight, so look at your bulbs to see. If they are marked &quot;sunlight replacement&quot; or something like that, keep your beer shaded. Even beer in brown bottles will skunk and some brews skunk more easily than others. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T06:46:48.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3687" CreationDate="2011-03-17T06:56:15.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way to provide nucleation sites to promote the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; escaping is to add a little sugar or Splenda&lt;sup&gt;tm&lt;/sup&gt; (the latter will really release the gas). I'd do this sparingly because it will sweeten the wine, but if it is fairly dry to start with, most people prefer some sweetness to cut the alcohol bite. This really is true with fruit ciders and wines with more subtle flavors such as pear, peach, and apple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T06:56:15.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3680" CreationDate="2011-03-17T07:05:22.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbonation will be effected, if you are force carbonating in the keg. Up the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; pressure by about 10%, shake it a lot, and have the brew very cold (I used to live in Laramie and at 7200 ft, beer went flat REALLY fast unless you kept it around 35-38&lt;sup&gt;o&lt;/sup&gt;F). Here is a link to a carbonation table that I have found to be useful:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/support-files/kegcarbonationchart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/support-files/kegcarbonationchart.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T07:05:22.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3695" CreationDate="2011-03-17T13:09:33.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you have a good fermentation, I doubt that this will have a discernable oxidizing effect.   The yeast are going to eat any dissolved oxygen in the wort during their reproductive phase (not to mention the fact that you'll be aerating/oxygenating the wort at pitching time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose if you're &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; concerned about it, you could dump the first hopback load of wort, and keep the wort that has had less air exposure, but that will also throw out some of the volatile oils and such that you want to get out of the hopback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T13:09:33.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3695" CreationDate="2011-03-17T15:47:07.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option would be to purge the oxygen out of the lines and the hopback using CO2 before you run the wort through.  This is a good safety precaution but in my opinion it is not totally necessary since hot side aeration is not a huge issue at Homebrew volumes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T15:47:07.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3695" CreationDate="2011-03-17T15:58:30.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience, you don't have to worry about oxidation.  Whether it's because you pick up so little O2, the fermentation scrubs it, or that HSA worries are overblown, I never encountered any oxidation due to using a hopback.  I eventually stopped using one not because of oxidation problems, but because it seemed like a more difficult way to accomplish the same thing I could get from dry hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T15:58:30.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3693" CreationDate="2011-03-17T16:01:11.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I routinely leave dry hops in beers for months and get no vegetal flavors.  When to dry hop it up to you.  I generally do it in xfer to secondary just because I'm lazy...err, pragmatic....and want to get everything done in one step.  From that point, the hops will be in there anywhere from 2-6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T16:01:11.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3598" CreationDate="2011-03-18T03:45:26.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used hefewiezen yeast in ciders (wyeast 3068) and it added a slightly fruity flavor that bakka mentioned. Don't see how the subtle contribution of the wyeast would overpower the strong ginger flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T03:45:26.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3710" CreationDate="2011-03-19T04:11:01.423" Score="5" ViewCount="566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a fridge set up in my garage loaded full of delicious home brew, all ready to drink.  To save on power, I'd like to only turn it on when I need it, say once a week or once a fortnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I cause any damage from the large fluctuations in temperature?  Right now it's likely to swing between 4°C &amp;amp; 30°C (~40-86°F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T13:34:01.093" Title="Is RTD beer susceptible to any damage from temperature fluctuations?" Tags="|beer|storage|temperature|refrigeration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3736" CreationDate="2011-03-19T05:54:45.673" Score="2" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleaned lines with Glosan (followed directions and flushed with a keg of purified water) and now there is a soapy taste to the beer. Anybody else have this happen? suggestions for how to avoid this are welcome for an alternate cleaner for the lines. Thinking of just switching to Oxyclean, but wonder if that will really clean the gunk in the lines without soaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T04:09:27.350" Title="Glosan and soapy taste" Tags="|kegerator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-19T10:14:20.643" Score="4" ViewCount="1157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've primary fermented my Woodfordes Admiral Reserve for 4 days, kegged with 3oz if sugar and it's now it's been in there a week. I don't want sediment in my beer. Can I bottle it after 2 weeks in the keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kenny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1144" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T14:38:24.607" Title="Can I bottle ale after 2 weeks in keg?" Tags="|bottling|kegging|secondary-fermentation|sediment|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3707" CreationDate="2011-03-19T12:54:13.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on what you mean by &quot;damage&quot;, but that is how the labs quickly simulate how a beer will go through staling reactions over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you put a temperature controller on the fridge and hold it at cellar temperature (~55F)?   That would keep the beer at a stable temperature in a good range for aging, but still be warm enough to cut down on electricity costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T12:54:13.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3709" CreationDate="2011-03-19T13:28:29.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If its carbed up in the keg you'll still need a CO2 source to push the beer out of the keg and into bottles.  Otherwise you'll be losing carbonation as you go.  Bottling from the keg isn't that hard.  You can use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blichmannengineering.com/beergun/beergun.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beer gun&lt;/a&gt; from blichmann.  I have also jammed a piece of tubing into the opening of a cobra tap.  The tubing reaches to the base of a bottle and that works pretty well at minimizing foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing how you put the beer in the keg only after 4 days, I'd suspect that there is a lot of sediment in the keg.  You might want to rack the beer to a new keg to get it off the sediment.  Or pull out the dip tube from the keg and trim a few inches off the end so you don't pick up the sediment when you finally do push the beer out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T13:28:29.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3707" CreationDate="2011-03-19T13:34:01.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Letting the beer get warm will shorten its shelf life as the heat speeds up staling reactions.&#xA;Doesn't really matter that its cycling from hot to cold or not.  Its a cumulative time at warm temps that short the freshness over time.&#xA;Its not the best practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T13:34:01.093" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3598" CreationDate="2011-03-19T18:13:34.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a little different than &quot;Ginger Beer&quot;, so I'm not sure what you are exactly making because your post does not make it completely clear. However, I have had success making a naturally fermented Ginger Soda from a recipe our of Sandor Katz's wonderful book, &quot;Wild Fermentation&quot; which I recommend to any beer maker as an interesting read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, essentially the recipe starts with making what he calls a Ginger Bug. This is the &quot;yeast&quot; of the process. Essentially, you mix 1 cup water with 2 teaspoons fresh grated ginger and 2 teaspoons white sugar. Leave that covered with a cloth on your counter for 2 days to a week.. until it starts bubbling. Add more ginger and sugar every 1-2 days as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This recipe makes 1 gallon, so adjust accordingly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when you go to make your soda.. bring 1 gallon water to a boil with 1.5 cups white sugar and 2-6 inches grated fresh ginger (depending on how strong you want the ginger taste to be). Let that simmer for 15-20 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it cools, you can optionally add the juice of 1-2 lemons for another flavor. In my latest batch, I added carrot juice for more fun! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it cools down to 80F or so, add the strained ginger bug from above. Katz says to bottle it directly in your bottles, but I've had that be over-carbonated, so I ferment mine in a small carboy for about 10 days. Then I bottle with priming sugar to get the right level of carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, that's a naturally fermented ginger soda. Super tasty!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="296" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T18:13:34.173" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3720" CreationDate="2011-03-19T20:09:51.463" Score="7" ViewCount="2696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did my first AG brew today. It went very well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question comes with the mash. I know normally, you determine your mash thickness with 1.25-1.5 quarts per pound of grain. If I were to use, say, 1 or 2 qts per pound, what would the difference be in the end product? I'm very interested in forming my own recipes, and I'm wondering if this is a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1104" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T15:25:32.700" Title="When formulating an AG recipe, how do you determine mash thickness?" Tags="|mash|all-grain|mash-thickness|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3714" CreationDate="2011-03-19T20:30:48.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answers will vary, but for the most part you won't notice a difference in a beer with 1 vs 2 qt/lb.  In theory mash chemistry can be effected by thickness, but at that range and on the homebrew scale you'd be hard pressed to really taste a difference in side by side comparisons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T20:30:48.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3714" CreationDate="2011-03-19T20:44:44.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually try to go with 1.3 quarts/lbs.   that's comfortable for me to work with (relatively easy to stir), and with a stainless braid, i usually get around 70% efficiency with smaller beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen my efficiency drop when I'm closer to 1 quart/lbs, but that's usually with target OGs above 1.090.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T20:44:44.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3719" CreationDate="2011-03-19T23:10:46.373" Score="12" ViewCount="39158" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed an Oatmeal Stout and it has been in bottles for about 4 weeks now and still the bottles haven't carbonated.  Tried the first bottle after 2 weeks and it was very flat.  Now I just opened one after another 2 weeks and still no head at all but it doesn't taste as flat as before.  Anything I can do?  Unfortunately I do not have a kegging system.  It tastes awesome just a little flat which is disappointing as this was my first partial mash and the whole process was awesome except for the final outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewershub.com/batches/tomcocca-toms-oatmeal-stout-2&quot;&gt;Recipe and Notes on the batch here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;~ Tom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T22:08:03.273" Title="Bottles didn't carbonate, anything I can do?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|bottle|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3717" CreationDate="2011-03-20T04:48:26.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue with an oatmeal stout. I also used 4oz of sugar. It ended up okay in the end though after turning the bottles upside down, gently rousing the yeast and raising the temperature. Not familiar with that yeast strain, but I'd imagine 64 is too low for the yeast to be happy. Raise the temp, swirl the bottles upside down and give it a couple more weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1104" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T04:48:26.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3717" CreationDate="2011-03-20T15:19:48.280" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are sure your primed the bottles then they should most definitely carbonate.  It could be a temperature issue creating sluggish yeast.  What temperature are your bottles at?  Get them to 70F or better and they'll start carbonating.&#xA;Put one on top of your water heater for a few days and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  You know another great place to warm bottles is on top of the fridge.  The fridge generates a fair amount of heat in the back, and it generally is escaping from the top.  I have put a case of bottles on top of the fridge before and trapped the escaping warmth with a towel or small blanket.  Alot of fridges have those two hard to get to cabinets above the fridge.  I 'll put a case on top and them use the doors to hold the towel to make a tent over the bottles.  This helps trap that warm air around the case of beer.  Of course if you have a super nice kitchen and a wife this might not fly very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-03-21T12:31:07.457" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T12:31:07.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3714" CreationDate="2011-03-20T15:25:32.700" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, as said, mash thickness between 1-2 qt./lb. will make little to no difference.  Even as high as 3 qt./lb. is fine.  Kai Troester (www.braukaiser.com) has performed detailed experiments that show that higher rations lead to greater conversion efficiency.  I've pasted in a chart from his work below.  He has said that thinner mashes convert more quickly and completely.  Here is a quote from his study...&quot;&quot;But while thick mashes offer better protection for the enzymes, they also inhibit the enzymatic activity through the reduced availability of free water and the sugars acting as competitive inhibitors [Briggs, 2004]. In addition to that the gelatinization of starch is also slower and happens at higher temperatures in thick mashes and as a result thinner mashes are known to give more fermentable worts at normal mashing temperatures. &quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Starch_Conversion#water_to_grist_ratio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;source&quot;&gt;(source)&lt;/a&gt;.  Having a higher conversion efficiency means that you don't need to shoot for a really high lauter efficiency, which can lead to better quality beer.  If you batch sparge, it works really well to use a ration that gets you approximately half your total boil volume from the mash.  That's usually the main factor for me in deciding on ratio.  I find that I usually end up around 1.6 qt./lb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgKiN.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Kai Troester chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T15:25:32.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2011-03-20T16:13:20.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing to keep in mind is that a hoppy beer is best enjoyed fresh.  If you bottled your ipa and left it sit for months before drinking, it will taste and smell way less hoppy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1148" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T16:13:20.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3717" CreationDate="2011-03-20T18:32:34.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMPO I wouldn't do anything. I have have some batches that have taken 5 weeks to carbonate. You mentioned that the last time you tried them they didn't taste as flat as the first time, which would indicate that they are carbing up, just slowly. Good call on rotating them and putting at a little higher temp. This should get them going, just have patience. I would not under any circumstance add more sugar. It sounds like you primed them right and if you add more sugars you could end up with bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T18:32:34.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3717" CreationDate="2011-03-20T19:09:12.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A last resort is to use dry ice as you serve it. Cools and carbonates at the same time. Used to rescue flat soda this way (poor chemistry students, you know ;-)) and I have used it on hard cider to improve the carbonation while serving. Dry ice can be found in most large chain supermarkets these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T19:09:12.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3737" CreationDate="2011-03-20T20:04:23.890" Score="11" ViewCount="4722" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to remove the labels that appear to be painted on to bottles?  Specific example would be the Rogue 22oz. bottles?  I would like to remove these labels to get a clean bottle to put into my rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. If this is not an appropriate question for this group I'll remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-03-21T13:09:37.093" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T21:05:14.960" Title="Any way to remove painted on labels?" Tags="|labels|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3724" CreationDate="2011-03-20T21:02:02.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never tried it, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/rogue-paint-label-removal-154880/index2.html#post1793562&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some people report success&lt;/a&gt; with soaking the bottles in regular-strength StarSan or CLR for an extended period of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T21:02:02.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3724" CreationDate="2011-03-20T21:20:47.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that sitting several days in Oxyclean Free &lt;i&gt;won't&lt;/i&gt; remove the paint.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't worry about the paint being on them, though.  I just stick a paper label on top of it, or don't hand out those bottles to other people.   As long as the bottle is clean on the inside, it really doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T21:20:47.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3731" CreationDate="2011-03-20T21:40:19.237" Score="7" ViewCount="1292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a small batch, and referred to the Nomograph for Determining Ammount of Priming Suger for 5 US Gallons in Brewing Classic Styles.  I wanted to carb to 2.25 vol.s at 70 degrees so I decided 3.3oz of corn sugar was right.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But, since it's a smaller batch (1.5 gallons) I should have divided the 3.3 by 3.  Which I forgot to do. &#xA;So, I've made bottle bombs, I'm afraid.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Anything I can do to save the batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="690" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T12:39:50.023" Title="Whoops, I over-primed. Anything I can do?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|priming|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3727" CreationDate="2011-03-20T22:17:57.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done the same, resulting in a couple of cracked bottles from the pressure a couple of weeks after bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I loosened the caps (just barely enough to release the pressure), let them sit for a few minutes and then resealed the caps. I did this twice over a couple of weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is possibly a bit dodgy in terms of sanitisation, but I had no issues with any of the beer going bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T22:17:57.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3727" CreationDate="2011-03-21T12:39:50.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think trying to reseal caps results in leaky seals.  If you drink them fast enough maybe you don't notice that over time they lose their carbonation to an extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd plan on carefully monitoring the carb level by sampling the beers each day.  Then just store them in a cold fridge to stop the process.  Seeing how it seems like a small batch fridge space should be available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T12:39:50.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3734" CreationDate="2011-03-21T14:43:30.617" Score="9" ViewCount="1736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had the idea that, instead of taping my bottles, and marking with a sharpie, it would be very handy to use something like a 'grease pencil' to mark up the bottle with the relevant info. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, black on brown, or even red on brown, doesn't seem to be very useful to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know about something like this, in white, that could be used?  I've tried a white crayon, without success.  And I've heard of chalk markers, but they won't work when submerged in ice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T16:05:43.457" Title="Bottle Marking Pen?" Tags="|bottles|labels|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3732" CreationDate="2011-03-21T15:14:42.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found sharpie on the cap to work well enough for my needs. Sometimes I get confused with just 1 letter (was P the Porter or the blonde we named Pam?) but for the most part, it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really the answer you're looking for...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T15:14:42.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3732" CreationDate="2011-03-21T15:19:16.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Googling 'White Grease Pencil' will give you several hundred options. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0049D5NYW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon's offering&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T15:19:16.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3732" CreationDate="2011-03-21T15:24:46.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecrater.com/p/9680837/white-12-china-markers-wax-grease&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ecrater.com/p/9680837/white-12-china-markers-wax-grease&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This appears to be what I'm thinking about...but, has anyone ever TRIED it ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T15:24:46.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3708" CreationDate="2011-03-21T16:27:43.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, you've found a cleaner that I've never heard of before. Glo-san, from the one online seller that sells it, it claimed to be like PBW.  But I can't find any real MSDS for the product nor any real discussion on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you throw the Glo-san away.  Too sketchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nationalchemicals.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=56&amp;amp;SID=bb019de2c5f51faba3bf3b6989ff7829&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BLC Beer Line Cleaner&lt;/a&gt;. BLC requires a 15 minute soak and then a rinse.  There really isn't going to be a cleaner that doesn't require a soak. If there is beer stone present, it requires a soak.  We use BLC, it works great no residual taste.  You just have to mix properly and rinse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to Oxyclean, it's good stuff for a lot of tasks, but is slow to dissolve deposits. The BLC is pretty cheap and basically comes to a few cents per application and is designed for the task at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T16:27:43.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3724" CreationDate="2011-03-21T16:46:08.827" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer would be this:   Don't bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New 22oz bottles are about a $1.10 each. Used bottles by their very nature are worth less per bottle.  I'm going to assume the idea here is to save some money and get some nice 22oz bottles out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The acrylic paint used on Rogue bottles is going to require a heavy duty chemical like turpentine to remove. Combined with the labor involved, it quickly becomes ineffective cost-wise to reclaim these bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best alternative is to use them as-is, label and all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That saves maximum money and time.  The painted labels won't mold or get nasty like others.  If that's intolerable, I submit to you that buying 22oz bottles is cheaper than dealing with the recycled ones with a stubborn label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make and buy a lot of beer and when dealing with 12oz bottles, I will trash any bottle that takes me more than about 30 seconds to clean and de-label (minus soak-time).  Bottles are too cheap and plentiful to bother with otherwise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T16:46:08.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3739" CreationDate="2011-03-21T18:34:26.843" Score="5" ViewCount="1577" Body="&lt;p&gt;Read several posts about chocolate stouts and it seems that using nibs as a secondary flavoring without adding to the boil is the consensus. Roasting them first has been suggested, as well as soaking them in vodka. My question is how long should I roast them and at what temperature? What I have are cracked nibs from a chocolatier here in Seattle, do they need to be soaked in vodka? Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T03:51:55.040" Title="How long do I roast chocolate nibs to use in cider?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|cider|nibs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3738" CreationDate="2011-03-21T19:44:16.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most spices and nuts, you roast them just until they become aromatic.   When I roast almonds I do them in the oven at 350F for 5-10 minutes, and then let them cool.   Remember that dry things like that will maintain their heat for a good long while, and they will continue cooking (carry-over) for a few minutes after you remove them from the heat.   There's also a short window between roasted and burned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do them in a dry skillet, as mentioned in this question:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://cooking.stackexchange.com/questions/3560/what-technique-best-infuses-spices-into-a-dish&quot;&gt;What technique best infuses spices into a dish?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:33:38.137" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T19:44:16.380" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3745" CreationDate="2011-03-21T23:47:44.323" Score="7" ViewCount="22545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the liquid (black) connector very stuck on to my keg, to the point where the plastic broke when trying to pull it off.  I'm guessing it's because I mixed up the little posts after removing them for cleaning.  They look really similar, but I can see that they're slightly different.  Which one is used for the gas, and which one is used for the beer, and how can I tell the difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T11:41:04.633" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T11:48:56.843" Title="How to tell the difference between corny keg posts?" Tags="|equipment|kegging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3738" CreationDate="2011-03-22T00:03:49.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a coffee imperial stout that I use nibs in secondary. I did not roast them but I don't know how much the ones you have will differ from mine. These are the ones that I used. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.surlatable.com/product/PRO-24981/Scharffen-Berger-Cacao-Nibs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.surlatable.com/product/PRO-24981/Scharffen-Berger-Cacao-Nibs&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flavor after about 3 weeks in bottles was more of a bitter, unsweetened, dark, 100% cocoa flavor more than a cheap Hershey's bar.  (Personally it worked well but maybe the wrong chocolate flavor for a cider.) &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as vodka: I tried soaking mine for a few days to try and extract more flavor but the whole mix just ended up smelling like bad vodka I wouldn't want in my beer. I ended up just using enough to cover the nibs long enough to disinfect, then drained the vodka off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T00:03:49.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3750" CreationDate="2011-03-22T00:13:00.150" Score="5" ViewCount="2078" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a buddy that has a Mr. Beer kit he said he is never going to use (It is about 3 years old).  I mostly want it for the P.E.T. bottles but was wondering: &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Depending on what ingredients are in the kit would it be ok to try and use some of them? Or would I just be risking a bad batch of beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T19:34:37.407" LastActivityDate="2018-12-10T15:32:06.330" Title="What is the shelf life of canned LME?" Tags="|lme|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3740" CreationDate="2011-03-22T00:38:35.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of my kegs have the liquid side labeled &quot;Out&quot; in raised plastic near the base of the post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, if you really have to force it, you've probably got it on the wrong one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T00:38:35.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3742" CreationDate="2011-03-22T02:07:32.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's pretty old for LME.  That stuff has a finite shelf life. I've been told less than a year, especially if opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advice I have received in the past was like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you are ready to use it, open it and have a sniff.  If it smells normal for LME, you are probably good.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure it is still mostly liquid. Although I always thought &quot;if it dried out, it probably rotted&quot;, but that's what I was told.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have DME as a back-up, just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that it is sealed, you can probably make &lt;em&gt;beer&lt;/em&gt; with it, just not particularly good beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume it's hopped LME.  Whether it's hopped LME or seperate hops, three years old they will have lost most of their zing.  A small addition of hops would probably be a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At worst, it will be mediocre beer.  All it will really cost you is time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="381" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T02:16:52.563" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T02:16:52.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3740" CreationDate="2011-03-22T02:15:48.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmmm...Not an easy question to answer, since there are three types of ball-lock posts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gas posts all have what I would call a &quot;double-nut&quot; look.  The base of the post, the part where you put your wrench to take them off, have a line around it, making it look almost like it's two parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/kegging/soda-kegs-fittings/soda-keg-repair-parts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;THIS&lt;/a&gt; has pictures.  Look at the gas posts, on the bottom part, from the side.  The place where you would put your wrench. (looks like the head of a nut or bolt)  You will see what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, some older Firestone Champions will use a 12-point bolt arrangement on the gas line rather than the normal six point.  Those are pretty rare, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T02:15:48.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3747" CreationDate="2011-03-22T03:48:09.683" Score="6" ViewCount="4239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a double batch of IPA with a buddy about 8 weeks ago.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We split this into two 5 gallon pails and 2 weeks later into two carboys.  His was fine, but mine developed a bit of white stuff on the top of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It smelt fine and tasted OK so I bottled it after 2 more weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After being in the bottles about 10 days I decided to try some.  I noticed that all the bottles had a slight white film on the top of the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I poured a bit and there was a slight taste that was off to it.  A bit sour maybe or alcohol-y.  Not too bad but a hint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to leave it and two weeks later (last night) tried another bottle.  It tastes fine now, but the white film is still there - although not getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I poor the beer this film separates into little flecks of white that will float on the surface in my glass. Not a lot, but I notice it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking the carboy I used wasn't as sanitized as it should have been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious as to what this may be and if it is safe to drink it.  I don't want to give something to my friends when they are over that may make them sick in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1151" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T11:58:51.390" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:46:34.313" Title="What is the white film on my beer in my bottles?" Tags="|bottling|troubleshooting|off-flavor|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3746" CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:27:03.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general rule is as long as a beer doesn't smell or taste off, it's probably okay to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like you have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactobacillus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lactobacillus&lt;/a&gt; contamination. Lacto will give the beer a sour taste and that taste will increase over time.  That's the white film and flecks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It matches every description I've heard of for a lacto contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully others will have more direct experience to tell you about your specific contamination.  But if it is lacto, you are gonna want to drink it before it becomes too sour to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lacto is used along with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brettanomyces_bruxellensis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brettanomyces bruxellensis&lt;/a&gt; or other brett strains to make lambics.  Neither will hurt you, but in a non-lambic beer it is a flaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with it, I hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:46:34.313" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:46:34.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3753" CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:39:39.480" Score="4" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that adding Campden kills yeasts. But I read recipes for beers that talk about soaking additional flavoring agents (like coffee beans and chocolate nibs) in vodka to disinfect them, before adding to a secondary. Is the worry that is solved by soaking in vodka taken care of by using Campden tablets? I already use Campden after putting my flavored cider mixes in the carboy and before I pitch the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T12:54:38.037" Title="Will Campden disinfect flavoring additions in a primary?" Tags="|cider|coffee|campden|nibs|disinfecting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3740" CreationDate="2011-03-22T11:48:56.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its a very subtle difference and hard to see.  If you look at the post from the side and then scan down the post you will see these features:  Top of the post, the O-ring, straight shaft, then the first flange, an indentation and another a larger flange, more shaft, then the nut.  That very first flange is where the primary difference is.  That first flange of a gas post is slightly thinner and not as wide as the liquid flange. You almost need to hold two side by side to see the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend getting some enamel paint and putting a dot on the top of the nut of each gas post.  I have several kegs that I clean all at once sometimes, and this allows me to toss all the posts in a bucket of cleanser and then quickly sort then out afterwards.&#xA;Some of my gas posts have nuts with multiple points, so those are easy.  But most of mine look very similar to the beverage posts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T11:48:56.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3742" CreationDate="2011-03-22T11:54:49.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its free stuff.  Try it and see what happens.  Getting and using some fresh hops and yeast would be a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LME tends to get darker with age and some of the flavors get less intense, but it doesn't really go bad.  As long as we are talking about canned LME and not stuff in a plastic container, it will make beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T11:54:49.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3754" CreationDate="2011-03-22T11:55:49.300" Score="3" ViewCount="1116" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very bad potatoes seems to have some sort of acid and other poisonous items formed. A suggestion in Cooking.SO, &lt;a href=&quot;https://cooking.stackexchange.com/questions/13314/how-to-manage-old-potatoes/13335#13335&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, proposes distilling vodka with old potatoes, having a link that overlooks the issue for example with distillation &lt;code&gt;&quot;[n]ot that difficult really&quot;&lt;/code&gt; while I think the reality is a bit different: fatal accidents &lt;a href=&quot;http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/7410549.stm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/1536166.stm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. My question is now not distillation but homebrewing with poor old materials. I am unsure whether I can draw an analogy between distilled products and brewed products but my personal feeling is that is not good idea at all to try bad old-smelling potatoes. Is it good idea or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1157" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:33:38.137" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T11:45:09.517" Title="Brewing with very bad old-smelling potatoes?" Tags="|science|food-safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3724" CreationDate="2011-03-22T12:01:52.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've managed to scrape the paint off some Rogue bottles using a window scraper. One of these -&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toolbank.com/p/C10208/STA028590&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.toolbank.com/p/C10208/STA028590&lt;/a&gt; It took quite a while to get it all off and I decided after three bottles that the effort really wasn't worth the return...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T12:01:52.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3748" CreationDate="2011-03-22T12:54:38.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Campden doesn't kill cultured yeast, at least not at the levels you'd want to use it at without significantly hindering the flavor and aroma of your beer.  The problem with using Campden (Potassium Metabisulfite) is that it adds significant levels of free and bound SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; to your beer.  This will cause your beer to smell and taste like sulfur.  Wine is typically kept at about 50 ppm of free SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, as this is high enough to kill wild yeast and spoilage organisms, but low enough to be below most people's detection threshold.  This level isn't high enough to kill cultured yeast.  When you add Campden to your cider, you're protecting it from spoilage while still allowing your cultured yeast to thrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When winemakers want to stop their yeast before it ferments dry, they sulfite to about 50ppm &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; add Potassium Sorbate.  It's this combination that prevents the yeast from reproducing and causes them to go dormant.  It's a balancing act for winemakers.  Not enough and the yeast will come back to life and start fermenting the sugars again.  Too much and the wine will taste like eggs, rubber, cabbage, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, Campden isn't a very effective sanitizer compared to Star San, Iodophor, or Alcohol.  Campden works reasonably well in wine because ABV levels are typically above 10%, often in the 13% range.  In beer, they're usually in the 5% range, give or take a few.  Wine typically has a pH much lower than beer as well.  At beer's low abv and relatively high pH levels, sulphites aren't the best sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those reasons, it's best not to use Campden to sanitize your flavorants - mainly because of the risk of off flavors, but also because it's not the best sanitizer.  I recommend sanitizing your beans and nibs with strong alcohol such as vodka or whiskey (if the whiskey's flavor will play well with your beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T12:54:38.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3751" CreationDate="2011-03-22T17:33:41.173" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm deliberately avoiding addressing whether this question is appropriate for this forum.  A question was posted on &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/162/ignoring-legality-is-homebrew-stack-exchange-going-to-encompass-distilling&quot;&gt;meta&lt;/a&gt; regarding that issue, presumably in response to this question, so it's possible that this will still be closed.  In the meantime, however...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could brew beer with potatoes, and there would, of course, be challenges in that alone - namely ensuring that you have the enzymes to properly mash the potatoes.  Pun intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do with this potato beer after brewing is your own business, and probably outside of the scope of this forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More to the point: you should &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; brew with spoiled potatoes.  It's just not a good idea.  I would think the god-awful smell of heating rotten potatoes would be reason enough, but there's also the risk of fungal toxins like trichothecene, and no way of knowing if any toxins are present.  Even if your potatoes weren't toxic, I'm not sure that you could ever get the putrid smell and taste of rotten potatoes out of the brew.  Even with extensive &quot;processing&quot; after brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might need to rephrase your question to better align with this answer and focus solely on brewing with potatoes, since that's what this forum is meant to address.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But seriously, throw the potatoes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T15:46:00.860" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T17:33:41.173" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3751" CreationDate="2011-03-22T18:58:09.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy fresh potatoes regardless of what you want to do with them.  Come on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T18:58:09.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3758" CreationDate="2011-03-22T21:28:35.307" Score="2" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so this is my second batch of beer ever, and it's a lager (doppelbock). My plan is to let it sit in my garage cabinet for 3 weeks, then bottle and lager in the refrigerator for a couple months. I don't have a secondary fermenter, so I won't be racking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The *cough*Mr. Beer*cough* instructions say to ferment at 68-78 degrees for 2 weeks minimum (My first batch was a pale ale that I set on the kitchen counter for 3 weeks. It tasted fine, but a bit yeasty). The research I have done says I should ferment at 45-55 degrees. I put a test cup of water next to the keg to check temperature. As of yesterday (day 2) it was still just under 60 degrees. It's still cold and rainy out and the garage is the coldest place I have. If it warms up, I'll probably bring it inside to my bedroom closet (or the refrigerator?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really hard to see what's going on because the keg is so dark, and the airlock is under the lid. What I'm wondering is if anyone here sees any fatal flaws with this plan, or has any suggestions to keep me from a disappointing end to a 3-month process. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1061" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:40:40.040" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:40:40.040" Title="Lagering Temperature and Time" Tags="|lager|doppelbock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2011-03-23T01:27:37.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dog food container from Petsmart that would be perfect.  It holds 40-50 pounds of dog food and has a top that screws on and seals.  It was a bit pricey ($40?), but it has been outside for a year and no water or mice have gotten in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T01:27:37.413" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3756" CreationDate="2011-03-23T01:29:23.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sort of depends on whether the Mr.Beer doppelbock kit actually uses lager yeast. If they recommend 68-78F it very well just be a  clean ale yeast like american/california ale yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing is to see what happens as per the instructions.  Then change your practice the next time if the flavor warrants a change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have no fear though it will ferment at 60+ degrees, so you will make beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T01:29:23.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-23T06:48:48.263" Score="2" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some industries, I can see the practice of providing tools and instructions on how to create a knockoff product being frowned upon though beer culture beats to a different drum. That and homebrewers probably aren't going out &amp;amp; selling their clones for profit. But the homebrewing shop is making money off of a brewery's work in a way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T20:33:19.687" Title="Do homebrewing shops get brewery's permission before designing/marketing a clone beer kit?" Tags="|clone-recipe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3759" CreationDate="2011-03-23T13:29:34.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For clones, I don't think it's common practice to do so, and I don't think it needs to be.  It's more of an homage and an effort of taste than a &quot;knock-off&quot; product.  Like recipes more generally, and items of hand-crafted effort more broadly, you have to squint pretty hard to think the homebrew shop is &quot;making money off of a brewery's work&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if it strays into the realm of misrepresentation or trademark infringement, that's a different story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, we've seen Northern Brewer do branded kits in conjunction with regional breweries, eg. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/recipe-kits/pro-series&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/recipe-kits/pro-series&lt;/a&gt; … but there they state &quot;These are NOT clones – these are the actual recipes of beers you know and love … by reputation as well as taste. Northern Brewer has teamed up with craft brewmasters to bring their favorite creations to homebrew kit scale.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T13:29:34.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3762" CreationDate="2011-03-23T14:28:48.250" Score="10" ViewCount="15869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know Melanoidin Malt can be used as a substitute for decoction mashing, provides the richness expected in certain styles, and may improve red or brown color. So at what percentages does the malt achieve these results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T15:48:09.090" Title="What is the proper way to use Melanoidin Malt in a recipe" Tags="|malt|color|specialty-malt|decoction|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3761" CreationDate="2011-03-23T15:35:28.690" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, in order to think that melanoidin is a sub for decoction you have to believe that decoction has an impact on flavor.  My own experiments, as well as those of others, do not support that.  Melanoidin will boost the maltiness of the beer in a kind of sweet, fruity manner, as well as have an impact on flavor as you describe.  Too much of it will make a beer taste off, almost with an oxidized caramel flavor.  I would say keep its use well under 10% of your total grist.  If you you haven't used it before, start at 5% and see what you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T15:35:28.690" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3759" CreationDate="2011-03-23T15:36:30.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually not, although I know that the kits that Rogue puts out of their own beers were developed by a brewer for Rogue with input from John Maier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T15:36:30.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3761" CreationDate="2011-03-23T15:48:09.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Five percent of your grain bill is generally a good starting point for Melanoidin Malt contribution.  Be cautious using more, as Melanoidin Malt has a very powerful and distinct flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I've also seen a comparison somewhere on the internet between decoction mashing and Melanoidin Malt, so maybe Denny will weigh in on this one...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T15:48:09.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3766" CreationDate="2011-03-23T17:01:48.133" Score="7" ViewCount="2726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know what yeast nutrient is, but was browsing around the brew supply and noticed yeast accelerator. Anyone know that the REAL difference (if any) is chemically? See it mentioned through a goggle search, but not certain what it actually does. Does it shorten the fermentation time by enhancing the yeast metabolism rate? Are there downsides if this is the case? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T07:21:22.113" Title="What is the difference between yeast nutrient and yeast accelerator?" Tags="|yeast|cider|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3765" CreationDate="2011-03-23T20:21:19.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast nutrient is used primarily to ensure a strong fermentation and is typically added toward the end of boil. Yeast accelerator is used to fix a stalled fermentation. Each contains various ingredients like phosphates and minerals to help in these cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T20:21:19.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3759" CreationDate="2011-03-23T20:33:19.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is becoming a more and more common practice for shops to gain permissions in some way due to various issues of trademark and intellectual property. It is always a good idea if you are selling anything that can be another companies &quot;property&quot; to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is currently an issue between Northern Brewer and Bell's Brewery over whether or not NB's Three Hearted is a clone of Bell's Two Hearted even though NB doesn't claim it to be. &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=100731&amp;amp;start=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;More info.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T20:33:19.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3771" CreationDate="2011-03-24T13:05:56.867" Score="6" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was having a discussion about starters with someone, after reading NB's Yeast Pitching Rates &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/YeastPitchingRates.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;document&lt;/a&gt;.  In which, I read that, with a stir plate, and considering a two stage propogation, I could get 453B cells with two .5 litre stages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, It was brought to my attention that in &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381969&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jamil's yeast book&lt;/a&gt;, he argues that sub-litre starters are pointless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I reconcile this?  Which resource is right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T15:45:15.433" Title="are sub-litre starters viable?" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3768" CreationDate="2011-03-24T13:26:08.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your goal is to achieve an approximate doubling of the healthy, viable yeast cell count.   So the important thing is the ratio of yeast cell count to wort volume.  Too little wort and you have just fed the existing yeast, but they've eaten all of the sugar and nutrients before they've all had a chance to reproduce.   Too much wort, and you've got beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plot the numbers that you see on NB's pdf, you'll see that what you get is a curve, which appears to mimic the numbers from Jamil's yeast book.  They're a little different, but they're close enough to make me think it's just differences in experimental methods.  (edit:  turns out that the experiment from the Yeast book was done with no additional oxygen and no agitation, so it may be that both are correct)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have 2 containers that will hold .5L, you could make a liter of wort and split the vial somewhat evenly between the 2 smaller containers.  That's what I do when I need to make larger starters.   For really large starters, make a small beer (under 1.050), and then pitch the yeast cake from that into your big beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-03-24T13:34:53.803" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T13:34:53.803" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3768" CreationDate="2011-03-24T15:45:15.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would certainly follow JZ's advice over NB's.  While I know and respect the people at NB (hey, they put out kits of my recipes!), I know for a fact that JZ has worked with Chris White to do detailed studies while NB is just repeating commonly held &quot;wisdom&quot;.  You're also comparing apple to oranges since NB recommends 2 steps and JZ is talking about a single step.  A 2 step starter is not only more hassle, you double the chance of accidentally picking up a contamination.  In addition, if you don't feed the yeast enough wort initially, they have nothing left to help them build glycogen reserves at the end of starter fermentation which are used to help the yeast get off to a healthy start once you pitch it into your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T15:45:15.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3732" CreationDate="2011-03-24T19:24:08.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &quot;Metallic&quot; colored Sharpie that I could use for that - I don't because I want to re-use the bottles though. You could try that color though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T19:24:08.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3773" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-25T00:36:50.150" Score="4" ViewCount="896" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone know where to obtain some Riwaka hops in bulk?  I'm itching to try them, but internet searches are coming up dry for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T15:37:04.070" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T15:37:04.070" Title="Riwaka Hops: Where to get 'em" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3129" CreationDate="2011-03-25T00:57:12.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had vigorous fermentation blow the liquid out of the airlock before..!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now check it every few hours the first day to make sure I refill it if it looks like doing this again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T00:57:12.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3773" CreationDate="2011-03-25T01:42:43.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nzhops.co.nz/varieties/riwaka.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nzhops.co.nz/varieties/riwaka.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;It will depend on where you live in the world as to whether they will ship them to you.&#xA;You'll have to give them a call to arrange for bulk quantities.&#xA;Good luck...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T01:42:43.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3773" CreationDate="2011-03-25T13:47:14.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It never hurts to ping your local homebrew shop about rare items like this.  For instance, Austin Homebrew once ordered Riwaka in bulk, back in 2008.  Of course, they didn't last long, and I don't think they ever reordered that variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riwaka is also called &quot;D Saaz,&quot; so you can try searching for that term.  I found them in 3-ounce bags at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pubshop.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=1006&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pubshop.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=1006&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Looks like they're out of stock at pubshop, but Grain and Grape does have them in stock.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=8883&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=8883&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T15:36:23.883" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T15:36:23.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3732" CreationDate="2011-03-25T16:05:43.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try kegworks.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search &quot;marker&quot; Comes in  silver (for bottles) or gold (for glasses). Wipes off with cooking oil. I have not personally tried this product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1172" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T16:05:43.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3765" CreationDate="2011-03-25T16:44:31.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast nutrient is &quot;vitamins and minerals&quot; to help yeast grow and ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast energizer is like &quot;speed&quot; to kick start a stuck fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T16:44:31.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3658" CreationDate="2011-03-25T17:56:13.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can second BeerSmith - although it is primarily a calendar for brewday + fermentation stages + lagering/conditioning timelines, perhaps you could expand the usefulness of it by making &quot;dummy&quot; brew entries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you create a recipe called &quot;Yeast Equalization&quot; and give it a ferment time of 6 days. You then add this to the brew calendar on the date you want to start that phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe for your actual brew will take care of the fermentation and keg conditioning aspects. Not sure about the dry hopping - I don't have my copy in front of me to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did, when I wanted to really plan out a detailed brew activity calendar, including cleaning days, yeast propogation, etc... was to use an Excel sheet with colored cells representing each phase. It was very easy to cut/paste them around to try different configurations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T17:56:13.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3658" CreationDate="2011-03-26T09:48:12.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bio suggests you might be comfortable with a more technical solution...  &lt;a href=&quot;http://pipes.yahoo.com/pipes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yahoo Pipes&lt;/a&gt; outputs to iCal, which should load in any popular scheduling software.  It's not a one-step solution but you could whip up a calculator in there &amp;amp; tweak to your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-03-27T02:08:44.403" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T02:08:44.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3330" CreationDate="2011-03-26T17:00:26.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's a great recipe!  I would drop some of the 60L and use some Carafoam - and definitely drop the sugar and use DME or Pale LME.  If you've ever had the Weyerbacher Double Simcoe IPA - you'd know how great Simcoe can be in an IPA, it's in my top ten favorites of all time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2011-03-26T17:00:26.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3782" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-27T17:59:41.917" Score="3" ViewCount="4205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use bourbon-soaked oak chips in my scotch ale. My last batch got infected, but that's another story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to add the chips to a carboy, as I'll be aging it for over a month. It's easier to add them to a bucket, but I'd rather not age it in plastic for that long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, oak chips are hard to get out of a carboy. And a muslin bag with oak chips is REALLY hard to get out of a carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to overcome this bottleneck? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T19:04:54.230" Title="Adding oak chips to a carboy" Tags="|equipment|carboy|oak|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3782" CreationDate="2011-03-27T18:47:02.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put the chips in the carboy until you have the amount of wood-flavor you want and then rack the beer over to a keg or bottle it. You'll pull all the flavor you want out of chips pretty quickly (2-4 weeks, probably) because of their large surface area and thin-ness. Once you've done that, there's not much reason to leave the beer on the chips, so get it into bottles or a keg and let it age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for removing them from a carboy...well, this is one of many reasons I use cubes. Some options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cutting the chips down in size so that, even after some time in the beer, they can still be removed easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/10927/beerwinecoffee/Oak_Infusion_Tube_for_Carboys&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;infusion tube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Age an a corny keg. Removing the chips from the corny keg is easy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastEditorUserId="758" LastEditDate="2011-03-27T20:55:56.103" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T20:55:56.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3782" CreationDate="2011-03-27T21:08:52.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dedicated spice/coffee grinder that I use for this kind of thing. Have a similar problem when making my sassafras hard cider with large chips. Coarse grind them and add to a boil bag. Add bag to the carboy, then use a coat hanger to remove the bag from the carboy when you're done. Made a hickory cider this way from bbq smoke chips. Didn't use the bag and it was a mess cleaning the carboy and chips floated somewhat. IF you want to make the bag sink (if it floats), add some boiled stainless steel ball bearings inside the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are near a saw mill or pallet production company, oak sawdust works equally well, just be careful about contaminants from the mill. A quick rinse with everclear or vodka will remove any oils from the saw blades (shouldn't be any) before adding to the bag, ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T21:08:52.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3786" CreationDate="2011-03-27T23:28:34.317" Score="8" ViewCount="10826" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first attempt at dry hopping.  I added hop pellets directly into the secondary fermenter.  They have been in for 1 week and many have settled to the bottom, however there is quite a bit still floating and in suspension.  It does not seem like they are settling out any more.  The amount floating seems to have stayed consistent over the last 2 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering tying a sanitized muslin bag to the end of the racking cane when I transfer to the bottling bucket, in order to filter out the excess hop film and floating sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will filtering through the muslin bag reduce the amount of yeast in the beer I am bottling, preventing carbonation in the bottle?  Or is the standard muslin bag coarse enough to let sufficient amounts of yeast through?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance,&#xA;Bob&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks guys for the helpful info.  I just bottled tonight using the muslin bag filter to transfer from the secondary to the bottling bucket &amp;amp; it worked great.  It kept all of the remaining floating particles from transfering to the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again&#xA;Bob M.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1176" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-08-18T15:22:27.250" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T21:49:03.477" Title="Dry Hop Filtering and bottling" Tags="|yeast|bottling|carbonation|dry-hopping|filtering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3785" CreationDate="2011-03-27T23:35:23.577" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The muslin should let plenty of the yeast through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T11:43:51.727" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T11:43:51.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3785" CreationDate="2011-03-28T11:27:57.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I dry hop, I don't use any kind of bag to hold the hops either as I prefer as much exposure as possible. Generally I will agitate the carboy every day or two (just a quick rock back and forth) during the dry hopping phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rocking action will break up the &quot;mat&quot; of hops on top and allow them to begin settling out. Using this method, I generally have only a few specks of hops floating on the surface after 7 days. Then I can just rack the beer off the top of the sediment as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This technique works equally well in my heavily dry hopped (60+g of hops) beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your muslin bag idea will have no effect on yeast concentration in the bottle, you'll carb just fine. Even so, I always prefer to avoid sticking as many things into the beer as I can - even if they have been properly sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1109" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T11:27:57.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3782" CreationDate="2011-03-28T11:53:48.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem as I see it here isn't so much getting the chips out of the carboy, but how to separate the chips from the beer without too much effort.  Because if the chips were in an empty carboy you could just tip it upside down and shake them out with a few good rinses of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd invest in a small CO2 system and then plan to rack the beer under closed conditions.  After oaking the beer until satisfied with the flavor, you can transfer to a new carboy under the protection of CO2 and not risk further oxidation of the beer.  Then you have the beer in another glass carboy ready for a bulk age, and you have a carboy with the chips and trub in it.  At that point it should be fairly easy to get the chips out without having to separate it from the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.4/dawson.html%5d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Closed siphoning here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T11:53:48.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3792" CreationDate="2011-03-28T15:31:00.643" Score="7" ViewCount="2210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am participating in the AHA Big Brew day and the beer we'll be making is their &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/EastIndiaPaleAleSingleMash&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;English IPA&lt;/a&gt; part of this recipe requires modifying my water to be like Burton on the Trent water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calcium (Ca) - 268 ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Magnesium (Mg) - 62 ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sodium (Na) - 30 ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sulfate (SO4) - 638 ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chloride (Cl) - 36 ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;biCarbonate (HCO3) - 141 ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;pH - 8.33  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked up my water (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winnipeg.ca/waterandwaste/pdfs/water/waterQuality2009.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Winnipeg, MB [PDF]&lt;/a&gt;) and it has &#xA;Calcium (Ca) - 21.4 ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Magnesium (Mg) - 6 ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sodium (Na) - 2 ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sulfate (SO4) - ??? ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chloride (Cl) - 5? ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;biCarbonate (HCO3) - ??? ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;pH - 7.48  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never done this before, and I sucked at high school chemistry so I'm slightly nervous about modifying my water, but I'd love to start trying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how do I burtonize my water? What are the required materials? How do I determine how much/little to add? Anything else I should know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T16:34:20.700" Title="How to Burtonize my water" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3791" CreationDate="2011-03-28T16:05:21.127" Score="5" ViewCount="4300" Body="&lt;p&gt;After pitching noticed yeast was one month past 'best date' (thanks local homebrew shop).No perceptible activity at +36 hours. No krausen, airlock isn’t bubbling wort looks the same as when i poured it in. What are my best options at this point? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait and see?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make a starter from viable yeast and hope my wort doesn't get infected while it sits at 65?&#xA;2a. does the yeast have to match what its already in there? I'm not terribly concerned about hitting a particular style.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;toss the batch and start over once i have a proper starter?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;additional info: yeast kept at 70 degrees or less for 3 hours after leaving brew shop. wort was 75 when pitched. areated by shaking for 5 mins. 2.5 gallons in a 6.5 fermenter = lots of sloshing around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: checked the gravity, and it is definitely fermenting. i'm still very inexperienced, but i have proven to myself that the only way to definitively check fermentation is through the hydrometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1177" LastEditorUserId="1177" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T03:25:34.030" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T05:25:48.220" Title="36 hours after pitching straight from the vial, no signs of fermentation, what now?" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3790" CreationDate="2011-03-28T16:15:40.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One month past best before isn't all that bad. The first thing to do is take a gravity reading so you can be absolutely sure what's going on.  If it's still the same gravity as when you pitched, I'd go with #1 for another day.  36 hours isn't an excessively long lag.  But by 18-24 hours after that, I'd get some dry yeast in there ASAP if you haven't seen any action.  If you make a starter with liquid yeast, it will take longer to get going.  Or you could use 2-3 packs instead of a starter.  What style of beer, what yeast did you use, and what was the recipe?  Oh, yeah, and from now on, always make a starter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T17:09:59.567" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T17:09:59.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3789" CreationDate="2011-03-28T16:17:04.227" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easy way is to download Martin Brungard's excellent brewing water software &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bru'n Water&lt;/a&gt;&quot; and follow the steps for Burton water in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="1444" LastEditDate="2011-10-05T16:34:20.700" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T16:34:20.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3790" CreationDate="2011-03-28T16:40:21.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to get some known good yeast in there quickly, preferably of the same type as you pitched, but at this point, it sounds like whatever yeast is in there is dead and will just settle out anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though FAR from an expert on yeast, I'm not aware of any yeast that would give you no bubbles at all in the air lock at 36 hours.  My concern comes because I had one batch begin bubbling after 12 hours with no yeast at all, and I had followed my normal sanitizing routine (not saying it was perfect, just saying I wasn't aware of any obvious reasons for infection, but I got it all the same.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the store has fresh yeast of the same type (or any type), I'd get it in there, especially if this isn't a high gravity beer (~10%).  If it is high, I might go the starter route, but waiting is more time for competition, and it sounds like your current yeast is far from a fighter, possibly dead on arrival.  Also, if you didn't aerate it, make sure to shake it for a good five minutes after adding the new yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was the yeast exposed to high temperatures for any length of time, or anything after you left the store that might have affected it?  Also, what temperature was your wort when you pitched, and how did you aerate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if at all possible, do not throw away anything.  Even if it gets infected, I'd hold out and see it through.  I had to pitch the one that started bubbling without yeast because my wife threatened to leave me it smelled so bad, and I still wish I had been able to see it through, just to see what the result would have been.  Wild yeast and/or bacteria might make a sour something, might even be drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T18:27:45.893" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T18:27:45.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3480" CreationDate="2011-03-28T19:39:15.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep this site handy:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gives you: a Strike Temperature Calculator (how much water &amp;amp; what temp to start mash with), a Rest Calculator (water volume to mash out), and a 'Can I Mash It?' calculator (is my mash tun big enough to mash X grains at Y water/grain ratio).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T19:39:15.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3480" CreationDate="2011-03-28T20:02:28.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always use this guy: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T20:02:28.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-28T23:43:43.500" Score="4" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottled my first batch of homebrew and didnt fill the bottles all the way. So the next day I opened the bottles and poured some more beer into them and recapped them.. I this going to mess up the whole entire batch or am I ok? Now there is about a 1-2 in of air space in the bottles. Just didnt have enough beer in the bottles and didnt want them to explode all over.. Just wanting to know if it will still carbonate after doing that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1180" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T01:02:12.957" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T01:02:12.957" Title="recapping my bottles? Will it ruin the outcome of my beer?" Tags="|beer|techniques|bottling|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3797" CreationDate="2011-03-29T00:44:55.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you were careful about sanitization, the batch should be fine, 1-2 inches of head space is about right.  For future reference (if you didn't already know) when you are using a bottle filler, just fill the bottle to the top and when you remove the filler you should have the right amount of head space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T00:44:55.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-03-29T14:47:16.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Centennial and, to a lesser extent, Cascade are the classic American &quot;Citrus&quot; hops. Dry hopping with Centennial will give you a nice grapefruit hop punch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T14:47:16.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-03-29T16:03:01.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Citra is more tropical fruit than citrusy.  It's really reminiscent of passion fruit.  To me, Cascade is grapefruity, Amarillo and Summit are tangerine, Simcoe and to a lesser extent Centennial are lemony.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T16:03:01.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3156" CreationDate="2011-03-29T17:55:39.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unmalted wheat provides a more &quot;tart&quot; wheat flavor to me, as compared to normal wheat malt. It also adds to foam retention and makes a very thick, creamy head on the beer. It will also make the beer quite cloudy if used in large percentages (more than, say, 15%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out Hoegarden Wit, it has a nice luscious head and a creaminess that you can expect from using a lot of flaked wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T17:55:39.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2385" CreationDate="2011-03-29T18:09:36.140" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, then answers here are overly cautious. Not to say that they are &quot;wrong&quot; but beer is very forgiving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've personally sanitized a batch of bottles, left them to dry on the bottling tree, then returned to do the actual bottling &lt;strong&gt;the next day&lt;/strong&gt; without any problems whatsoever. Here's why i belive this approach works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) The plastic arms of the bottling tree are fairly unfriendly to bacteria due to their non-porous nature. Especially because they get hit with a small dose of sanitizer as the bottles drain out onto them. Just make sure they are cleaned of any gunk before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) The beer bottles are &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; inhospitable to bacteria after you've sanitized them. Bacteria cannot really live on glass without something else to cling to, so as long as your bottles were cleaned, then sanitized (not just one or the other), then the bacteria will find it very, very hard to live inside that bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) So long as the bottles are upside down, no wild bacteria riding in on dust can get into them. The bacteria cannot really &quot;climb&quot; up the bottling tree, assuming its been cleaned of any organic material in between uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(4) Whatever random spec of bacteria that just &lt;strong&gt;happens&lt;/strong&gt; to survive this inhospitable environment gets immediately dosed in a weak acid solution that has preservative herbs (hops) and a fair abount of alcohol. I'm talking about your beer of course! Remember, beer is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; an easy environment for most bacteria to live in, this is why mankind kept on making beer to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to summarize, make sure your bottling tree and your bottles are cleaned &amp;amp; sanitized, and make sure the bottles are stored upside down, which is their normal position on a bottling tree. If you do that, then you certainly have several hours, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;if not several days&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, to get around to bottling. Sounds like it could be a cool experiment too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T18:09:36.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-29T18:35:03.360" Score="3" ViewCount="2022" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1566/brewing-with-a-deadline&quot;&gt;Brewing with a deadline&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a thing coming up and was wondering if I could brew a beer in time for it. It would have to be ready in 11 days. I have a keg/carbonation so we could skip the carbonating phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to know in order to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T19:40:28.687" Title="Can a good beer be ready in one week?" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-03-30T13:16:00.537" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3803" CreationDate="2011-03-29T19:20:49.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can make beer in a week.  It will, of course, depend on the style you want to brew, and you don't have time for secondary, but 9-10 days in primary and a day of force carbonation is enough time for a drinkable beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a simple recipe for a low to moderate strength beer.  High alcohol, dry hopping, and other post-fermentation additions are out of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expect the flavors to be a bit harsh and grainy, and the beer will still be hazy and yeasty, as eleven days isn't nearly enough time for the tastes to meld and mellow and all the yeast to flocculate, but if all else goes well, the beer should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T19:20:49.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3803" CreationDate="2011-03-29T19:38:47.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try brewing an ale that doesn't need to clarify, like a hefeweizen, and you should be able to make it in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T19:38:47.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3803" CreationDate="2011-03-29T19:40:28.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't count on it, but maybe.  Every time I've rushed a beer I've been disappointed in the results.  Do you really want to serve people something that doesn't represent the best you can do?  Remember, the beer makes the schedule, not the calendar!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T19:40:28.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-29T19:47:43.483" Score="4" ViewCount="13445" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I want to have a beer ferment in less time would doubling the amount of yeast I pitch help? Will there be any consequences of doing so? Does it matter if I make a starter for them both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T15:31:31.940" Title="What effect will doubling the yeast concentration have?" Tags="|yeast|pitch|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3807" CreationDate="2011-03-29T20:14:38.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making a starter is all about increasing your yeast cell count.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There is no reason to use more than one packet of yeast if you're making a starter. &#xA;If you need more yeast, you can split the starter to get even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might technically decrease the amount of time needed, but likely only by a few hours, not days, if you're normally pitching a dry packet, smack pack, or vial per 5 gallons. What you're doing by introducing a larger yeast population is ensuring that it will be dominant and healthy, very important for higher gravity beers, and probably never a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several good questions already about starters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/263/should-i-always-use-a-starter&quot;&gt;Should I always use a starter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2510/making-a-yeast-starter&quot;&gt;Making a Yeast Starter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2024/starter-and-smack-packs&quot;&gt;Starter and smack Packs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T20:24:39.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3807" CreationDate="2011-03-29T21:15:39.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are already pitching the correct amount of yeast, pitching more will not make the beer ferment faster.  In addition, there are negative flavor consequences to pitching too much yeast. Having proper yeast growth in the fermenter is a big factor in ester production or lack thereof.  I used to pitch an entire slurry from a previous batch into the next batch.  When I started using 1/3 to 1/2 of the slurry the beer flavor improved considerably.  According to Dr. Clayton Cone of Lallemand, the same enzyme, Co-Enzyme A, is responsible for both cell growth and ester production and when it's doing one it won't be doing the other.  Therefore, allowing for cell growth means that you will fewer esters produced and a cleaner beer.  This contradicts some other theories, but it's what I've found to be true in my own brewing.  You can read more about it here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.danstaryeast.com/articles/yeast-growth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yeast growth and esters&lt;/a&gt;.  So, to sum up, pitching twice as much yeast won't speed up fermentation and might have negative impact on beer flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2015-10-04T21:55:54.380" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T21:55:54.380" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3836" CreationDate="2011-03-30T02:01:03.203" Score="3" ViewCount="984" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first attempt with both oak and bourbon is currently sitting in my carboys, and will for another month and a half, when I'll at least get to taste a little as I bottle.  Then the plan is to let it age for close to a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the latter part of last year I had Rahr &amp;amp; Sons Whiskey Warmer, their Winter Warmer recipe aged in oak barrels, and loved what the oak and bourbon did to smooth and add to the flavor.  My friends kept a bottle for several months, and recently tried it, reporting that it was nowhere near the glory they recalled.  One of my friends works at the brewery and said they had been told that beer was not for aging, but that one released this February, Snowmaggedon, would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the brewery I tasted Snowmaggedon that had also been aged in the same barrels, and it was delicious, however the bottles I acquired, while still very good, had not been aged in the barrels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I specifically noticed what appear to be oxygen barrier caps on these new bottles, so my question is, does bourbon flavor inevitably fade quickly from beer?  Was what my friends noticed more likely due to oxygen slowly getting in to inferior caps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T22:22:53.410" Title="Does bourbon flavor decrease with time in the bottle?" Tags="|aging|bourbon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3785" CreationDate="2011-03-30T02:18:36.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;my brew pertner &amp;amp; I just did our first dry hopping about 5 weeks ago. We got a tip to use a knee high womens stocking at the end of the syphon. Worked great. Not one speck in any of the bottles. Also, it was our first time using carbonation drops instead of bottling sugar. Have to say, they worked great. We got a clone recipe for Boulder Beers Hazed &amp;amp; Infused Dry Hopped Ale. An American double IPA. Very citrusy &amp;amp; a great bitter bite at the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1185" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T02:18:36.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3814" CreationDate="2011-03-30T03:36:50.477" Score="10" ViewCount="2597" Body="&lt;p&gt;This last summer, my Dad showed my brother and I the process for making wine that he learned from his Dad. It was pretty simple and used a 5 or 6 gallon glass carboy. I've made a few batches of beer using a kit from Mr. Beer, which in. I was thinking of getting a carboy for making some wine and I was wondering if it could be used for both beer and wine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1186" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T20:32:28.100" Title="Can glass carboy be used for both beer and wine making?" Tags="|beer|equipment|wine|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3813" CreationDate="2011-03-30T08:25:39.423" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made beer that was fermenting in glass carboy that was previously used for storing wine (for years). I did not notice any wine flavor in the beer. Just make sure you clean the carboy really good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="965" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T08:25:39.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3813" CreationDate="2011-03-30T12:45:43.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yup.  They're the same containers.   Just remember that you have to be more meticulous with your cleaning and sanitation with beer than wine, since it's got a higher pH and lower alcohol content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use 2 5-gallon glass carboys that my dad used to use for wine.   Each has made many batches of tasty beer, though now I mostly use them for aging of one sort or another.  Better Bottles are much easier to handle, and they bounce when you drop them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T12:45:43.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-30T15:20:17.200" Score="4" ViewCount="1970" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1117/wiki-fermentation-temperature-control-methods&quot;&gt;[WIKI] Fermentation Temperature Control Methods&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've made about 3 different batches of beer. Two came out good, one, not so good. I think it had to do with the fact that it was winter and I let it get too cold. I was wondering if there are any tips on how to maintain a constant temperature. I was thinking of trying to insulate it in some way. Living in Kansas, we tend to have extremes in weather, last weekend it was 80 degrees, this weekend we had snow. Thus the temperature inside the house changes quite a bit during the fermenting phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1186" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T12:19:14.193" Title="What are the best ways to regulate temperature while fermenting?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2011-03-31T14:37:00.173" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3816" CreationDate="2011-03-30T15:27:59.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The deluxe method is to use a refrigerator or freezer with a temperature controller.  Although you can find old fridges and freezers cheap, their lack of energy efficiency means that you might spend the equivalent of a new fridge to run them over a year or 2.  I use the Cheap'n'Easy method.  I put the fermenter in a large tub of water.  The added mass of the water helps to buffer thermal swings.  To warm it up, I put a 200 watt aquarium heater on a timer in the water.  By manipulating the aquarium thermostat and the timer, I can maintain a steady temp.  To cool the beer down, I add ice packs to the water once or twice a day.  A bit more work, but less expensive and it doesn't take up as much room as a dedicated fridge.  If you put the tub if water in a closet with only inside walls, it helps to buffer the temps even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-03-31T12:19:14.193" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T12:19:14.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3811" CreationDate="2011-03-30T15:31:24.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All flavors will fade from beer as it ages, whether bourbon or hops.  The solution is either to drink the beer sooner, or flavor it more heavily to account for the eventual fading,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T15:31:24.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3821" CreationDate="2011-03-30T16:07:04.897" Score="4" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our club now has three oak barrels, and while at least one is going to be dedicated to a solera, we'd like to try a couple other brews before we resort to two more soleras.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barrels are known to let oxygen in, good for the bacteria we'll have in our sour, but is this simply a flaw in every other regard, or does it contribute to any desired characteristics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T14:37:49.860" Title="Is oxidation beneficial to any beer style or characteristic other than sour?" Tags="|sour|barrel|oxidation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3822" CreationDate="2011-03-30T16:17:05.027" Score="8" ViewCount="13997" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to brew a black lager.  I don't have a temperature control setup yet, so accepting that my fermentation will be around 68-70 F, what ale yeasts would come the closest to mimicking the clean and crisp characteristics of a lager, or is this possible?  Would adjusting pitching rate/aeration help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="430" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T16:19:04.340" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T01:19:16.563" Title="What ale yeasts can closely approximate the clean and crisp characteristics of lagers?" Tags="|lager|ale|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3819" CreationDate="2011-03-30T16:17:59.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxygen in and of itself is a staling agent, plain and simple.  Some styles benefit from being a bit stale.  For instance, here in the states, what we know as &quot;British&quot; beer is typically a bit stale simply because by the time it gets here long after being brewed and having crossed the sea in a hot ship, it's not exactly fresh.  So if you want to clone your favorite, say, ESB, then a bit of staling will help get you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, barrels don't exactly let oxygen in the same as if you left the beer exposed to air, or if you didn't fill the barrel completely.  What they do is allow the beer (or wine) to micro-oxidize.  Search the web for info about micro-oxidation and you can read lots of fun debate from the winemaking world about how it's either beneficial, bad, non-existent, or maybe no different than regular oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-03-31T14:37:49.860" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T14:37:49.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2011-03-30T17:14:46.477" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best choice is Kolsch Yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White Labs: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp029.html&quot;&gt;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp029.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wyeast: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=144&quot;&gt;http://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=144&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only downside is 68-70 ambient temps. Those yeasts need to ferment around 65, so try to get the temp down a little more. Put your carboy in a water bath and drop in a few frozen water bottles each day. That should get you down to the mid-60's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, after you bottle, you'll need to let the beer carb up, then &quot;lager&quot; it in your fridge, in maybe a 12-pack at a time, for a few weeks before drinking it. The beer will change a lot in that time. Kolsch's can seem a bit fruity when young, but it drops out to a nice crispness later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do a nice clone of Negra Modela with Kolsch yeasts. Here's the recipe:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/203557/vienna-lager-recipes/negra-kolschero&quot;&gt;http://hopville.com/recipe/203557/vienna-lager-recipes/negra-kolschero&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T17:14:46.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1566" CreationDate="2011-03-30T17:23:15.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best style to make if you are short on time are German Wheat beers, specifically Hefeweizen and Dunkleweizen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go from grain to glass in maybe 8-12 days with a straight Hefe. Also, Hefe has the advantage of being a crowd favorite. Just called it a &quot;wheat beer&quot; and people will chug it. Make sure to use a starter, and ferment in the mid 60's. That will give you nice Hefe flavor without being overpowering. And since you don't have to wait to let the beer clear, you can keg it as soon as it's done fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T17:23:15.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3819" CreationDate="2011-03-30T17:35:06.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of oxidation is usually part of an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style19.php#1a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Old Ale&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T17:35:06.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2011-03-30T19:13:14.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll put in my two cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say the best analog of the clean, crisp taste of a (pils) lager would be a California Common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wyeast's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=131&quot;&gt;WY2112&lt;/a&gt; is actually listed as a lager yeast, but has a much higher temperature profile than standard lager yeasts.  I do not consider WY2112 a lager yeast, but there it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp001.html&quot;&gt;WLP001&lt;/a&gt; is White Labs California Common yeast, considered by them to be an ale yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both strains produce clean, clear beers that accentuate hop flavor.  Hoppy characteristics are more known for the style of California Commons.  Either yeast can be used in other recipes and styles and still produce a clean, crisp beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graham's suggestion of Kolsch yeasts is also a good one, those yeasts do nice imitation lager as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is that with all of these yeasts, Kolsch or California Common, you will need a temperature at most in the mid-60s.  Yeast of any variety simply produce a lot of esters at higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck, hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T19:13:14.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2011-03-30T20:24:59.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ale yeasts that stay clean, but you'll be hard pressed to achieve that at those temps.  And then keep in mind that you HAVE to cold condition the beer after fermentation to get anywhere near a lager.  I don't find kolsch (WAY too fruity IMO) or CA common yeasts clean enough for pseudo lagers.  My go to yeast for that is WY1007.  WY1056/WLP001 would be next with US05 after that.  But in order to do what you need to do, you really have to ferment them under 65 and 60 is better.  When they're done, you need to give them a month or 2 around 35 to really condition them and make them crisp.  Unfortunately, adjusting pitching or aeration won't do you much good for this.  There's just really no way around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T20:24:59.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3819" CreationDate="2011-03-30T20:26:32.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides old ale, barleywines benefit from some oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-03-31T14:37:21.907" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T14:37:21.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1566" CreationDate="2011-03-30T20:28:02.613" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't brew fast.  The beer is ready when it tells me it's ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T20:28:02.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3813" CreationDate="2011-03-30T22:53:18.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made both beer, cider and wine with my good ol Mr Beer plastic keg. No transfer of flavor between the batches. Baka is right that sanitation is key. Love the Mr Beer bottles as they are large ;-) and ship well without the worry of breaking (just wrap them in a couple of huggies in case they leak :-)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good source for large capacity plastic carboys is to use certified drinking water bottles with the handles molded in (the 3 and 5 gallon blue things). They are certified not to transfer flavors to the contents and sanitize well (both concerns that folk have with the PET carboys that are sold in home brewing shops). They use a number 6 stopper, BTW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T22:53:18.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3816" CreationDate="2011-03-31T00:32:12.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put the fermenter in a shallow pan, and fill the pan with a few inches of water.  Get an old t-shirt wet and put it over the top of the fermenter, with the neck sticking out the head hole and the bottom of the shirt hanging down in the water filled pan.  The t-shirt will wick up the water from the pan and cool the fermenter through evaporation.  In my experience, this will keep the fermenter about 5 degrees cooler than the surrounding room temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T00:32:12.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3819" CreationDate="2011-03-31T14:20:25.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think more important than whether a beer will benefit from oxidation is whether the flavor of the beer will benefit from being aged in an oak barrel. I think that the flavor of the oak is going to outweigh the flavor change of oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case I would look at commercial examples that are oaked or aged in oak or bourbon barrels such as Founders KBS or Weyerbacher Insanity. One is an RIS with coffee and vanilla, and the other is an English Barleywine. Both benefit from the oak flavors, and with such intense flavors to start with, oxidation is not as big of a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old ales, barleywines, stouts, porters, and generally anything you might age will benefit from aging in an oak barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T14:20:25.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-31T16:10:41.417" Score="6" ViewCount="16612" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to grow barley, is there a known ratio for pounds of malted grain per square feet of planted crop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone from twitter &lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/#!/Pintwell/status/53504637671706624&quot;&gt;posted&lt;/a&gt; this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gardensofeden.org/04%20Crop%20Yield%20Verification.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.gardensofeden.org/04%20Crop%20Yield%20Verification.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2011-03-31T17:17:07.330" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T18:23:18.780" Title="What's the ratio of square feet of planted barley -- pounds of grains" Tags="|grain|grow|barley|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3832" CreationDate="2011-03-31T16:55:19.900" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crop yields vary &lt;strong&gt;vastly&lt;/strong&gt; depending on soil conditions, amount of rainfall, fertilization, pest control, etc.  On my family's farm, there are places where the wheat grows tall and thick, and less than 10 feet away, plants are so thin and sparse that it would almost be better to let that area go fallow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, crop yields for barley tend to range between 5 and 40 bushels per acre.  Here in Colorado, that number is typically around 25 bushels/acre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Converting this to pounds per square foot isn't exact - a bushel is a unit of volume.  Healthy barley will be more dense than unhealthy barley, but farmers shoot for 48 pounds per bushel in barley harvests.  Using that figure, you'd be looking at &lt;strong&gt;.027 pounds per square foot&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were doing this in your backyard, and were committing more resources (water, fertilizer, time) than what a typical farmer invests, you might be able to see twice that amount.  This would mean that to harvest enough barley for a 5-gallon brew, you'd still need around 200 square feet of land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T16:55:19.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3832" CreationDate="2011-03-31T17:26:51.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Homebrew legend Dan Listermann has written about his barley growing experience in Ohio.  He harvested 10% as much as he planted!  Keep in mind that if you grow barley, you have to malt it.  It's not too hard to make crappy malt, but it's really hard to make good malt.  If someone is thinking of growing and malting their own barley, they should do it for the experience, not for the malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T17:26:51.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3837" CreationDate="2011-03-31T22:19:31.977" Score="3" ViewCount="711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a doppelbock with an ale yeast, so I'm fermenting in the mid- to upper 60s. It's 11 days in and all the krausen is gone. The top is speckled with what appears to be bright white yeast colonies. Do I wait to bottle until those are gone? I don't have a hydrometer, so I don't know the gravity situation. I don't see any bubbling or particles moving around, like I could for the first week. The instructions for the recipe simply say to let it ferment a minimum of 2 weeks. Will I hurt it by letting it ferment longer if the surface hasn't cleared up, or should I be safe to simply bottle at 2 weeks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1061" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:40:49.410" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T23:14:24.203" Title="Is primary fermentation finished?" Tags="|fermentation|doppelbock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3811" CreationDate="2011-03-31T22:22:53.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've wondered the same thing, but I doubt you'll find the answer that you seek on this forum.  Here's my best shot at a solid, scientifically-founded answer to your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To understand the effects of aging a bourbon beer, you need to know two things: the key flavor and aroma compounds in whiskey, and the effects of age on these specific compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chemicals that give bourbon it's characteristic taste are numerous and varied.  Whiskey is a complex mix of esters, aldehydes, fatty acids, phenols, and alcohols.  Probably the most significant flavor compounds are the phenols from the peat, which impart whiskey's characteristic smoky flavor, and vanillin, the phenolic aldehyde that gives bourbon it's distinct sweet vanilla flavor.  Esters also are a large contributor to whiskey flavor, as are melanoidins, and various other aromatic aldehydes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some compounds decrease with time, as Denny mentioned.  Other compounds, though, like aldehydes will actually increase.  For instance, phenylacetaldehyde levels can increase by a factor of ten in a beer aged for a few years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, phenols will readily oxidize.  Esters will too, although levels of some esters, like isoamyl acetate, will decrease, while levels of other esters can actually increase.  (This is why some beers become more whiskey-like over time - increases of esters that taste like whiskey.)  Aldehydes, which have a massive range of flavors from grassy to cinnamon to Maraschino cherry, tend to increase with time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consequence of this is that beer, with or without bourbon, undergoes many flavor changes over time.  Whiskey itself changes, but it is much less volatile than beer.  So if the beer did change over time, it was probably due more to the beer changing than degradation of the bourbon, although there are a lot of commonalities in the chemical reactions.  Your question was probably more of a general discussion point, but the topic is vastly complex and deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm gonna also throw out there the possibility that your buddies' perception and memory might be more of the culprit for the tasting difference - that is, they could have easily remember the beer being better than it actually was, or been slightly drunk and happy to be at a brewery when they tasted it, and overglorified it, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, here's a link to a review of a paper that is relevant.  Maybe you'll find this interesting:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersensoryscience.wordpress.com/2010/11/15/chemistry-of-beer-aging/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beersensoryscience.wordpress.com/2010/11/15/chemistry-of-beer-aging/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T22:22:53.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3835" CreationDate="2011-03-31T22:50:38.777" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will definitely not hurt it by letting it go longer.  The only way to know if a beer is finished is to take a gravity reading.  Not by bubbles, not by krausen, not by the calendar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T22:50:38.777" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3839" CreationDate="2011-04-01T00:22:44.907" Score="7" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a brown ale kit and used irish moss  in it for the first time. After putting it in I realized that I had misunderstood my LHBS and added 1 tablespoon instead of one teaspoon. I left in primary and secondary each for a week to get the eggdrop soup in the fermentors to settle out. &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; Three weeks later in bottles at 70F they still have very little carbonation. I have tried rolling them every three days for the last two weeks and still no change. &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; Could the amount of irish moss have caused some of the yeast to get trapped in what fell to the bottom? And the time honored question, after three weeks at those temps and rolling the bottles, is this all the carbonation I could expect to see?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T07:11:51.117" Title="Does irish moss affect the amount of yeast left at bottling?" Tags="|carbonation|irish-moss|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3838" CreationDate="2011-04-01T00:29:24.567" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Irish moss works on the proteins in the beer. It has a negative charge, which binds the proteins which are positively charged.  Although some yeast &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have gotten trapped as the proteins fell out it wouldn't be enough to keep the beer from carbing.  It will have no direct affect on the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T00:29:24.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3845" CreationDate="2011-04-01T13:45:00.533" Score="8" ViewCount="23490" Body="&lt;p&gt;Approximately how low can the finishing gravity of a beer be?  I've been brewing from kits for about 10 years, and went all-grain last year.  I wouldn't expect to see anything lower than 1.006 or so, but my latest blew me away -- it was somewhere around 1.000!  I couldn't believe my eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else seen an FG so low?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(BTW, the yeast was Wyeast 1762, and the SG was 1.066, and table sugar contributed probably only about 1.010-1.015 or so.  The grain was all pilsner, and I mashed at about 65 C.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2011-04-01T14:03:20.720" LastActivityDate="2023-03-04T11:04:50.387" Title="How low can a beer's final gravity be?" Tags="|beer|all-grain|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2011-04-01T14:51:17.077" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a saison that finished at 1.002 that was fermented with Wyeast 3711 French Saison at about 84F.  The attenuation rate of the yeast strain along with the use of fully fermentable sugars can bring your final gravity quite low.  Your mash temperature will also dictate how fermentable your wort will be, a lower beta amalyes rest will produce more simple sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lacotbacillus and brettanomyces bacteria will also consume more complex sugars than regular yeast strains dropping the FG below normal levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T14:51:17.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3843" CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:13:38.333" Score="4" ViewCount="916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a new auto syphon that came with a length of tubing.  The way it had been packaged resulted in the tubing being folded and this is causing problems as it has a tendency to kink at these points and disrupt my syphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to restore or condition the tubing so it kinks less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T23:11:34.920" Title="How can I restore the shape of syphon tubing?" Tags="|tubing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3842" CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:22:16.533" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may try putting it in warm water for a few minutes, then pulling it straight and letting it cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1037" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T15:22:16.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:31:15.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you add enough simple sugars, you can probably get it below 1.000.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T15:31:15.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:31:21.740" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, a beer could finish below 1.000 due to the alcohol in it.  You'd need to have a very fermentable wort and a very attenuative yeast (or bacteria), but in theory it's possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-04-01T16:54:55.847" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T16:54:55.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3842" CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:33:27.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine usually stay semi-coiled until I run strike or sparge water through them and hang them up.  After that, they'll stay straight.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T15:33:27.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3842" CreationDate="2011-04-01T16:00:18.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd certainly give Baka's suggestion a try for the long term maintenance, but honestly this stuff is too cheap to mess around with long.  You can by this kind of tubing at nearly any hardware or home improvement store and it really is cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience is that once it's badly kinked, it never really is right again.  The easiest thing to do is replace it and use Baka's advice to keep it from kinking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T16:00:18.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3917" CreationDate="2011-04-02T00:26:06.640" Score="2" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sequence of Events:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;March 21st - Boiled water and honey and placed in sanitized plastic bucket with airlock (containing sanitary solution: Iodophor).  Bucket placed in basement to cool overnight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;March 22nd - Airlock was empty and the sides of the bucket had sucked in.  Pitched yeast.  Refilled Airlock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;March 31st - Racked into carboy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Current State:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just went to move the Must from the primary fermentation stage (plastic 6.5 gal bucket) into a carboy for the secondary fermentation. The airlock was not bubbling and the must had strange traits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very little sediment.  I would expect about 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch at the bottom, but there was scarcely more than a Tablespoon total.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There were little round floating spots (whitish, from 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch diameter, seem to be about 1/16 inch thick) on the top.  There were about half a dozen or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The must didn't have the carbonated/yeasty aroma I would expect at this point.  It mostly smelled like it did before pitching the yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went ahead and syphoned it into the carboy, avoiding the top portion with the spots (most of which adhered to the side of the bucket during syphoning).  There doesn't seem to be any activity from the yeast.  If I agitate the must, no carbonation is generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a two fold question:  What did I do wrong and how do I fix it without throwing the must out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1123" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-04-02T12:58:08.167" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T16:12:20.583" Title="My latest batch of Must had half a dozen floating spots and low sediment, what happend?" Tags="|yeast|troubleshooting|mead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2011-04-02T05:43:14.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the painted &amp;amp; silkscreened bottles, just soak them in a starsan solution and the &quot;label&quot; will come right off with a paper towel.  After I started doing that, everything is easy.  This also works for those laminated labels that don't come off in an oxyclean/onestep solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1196" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T05:43:14.070" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-02T05:43:14.070" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3842" CreationDate="2011-04-02T13:01:44.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often have a kink in my tubing where I hang it over a hook to drip for storage.  But when I run some warm PBW (cleaning) solution through it on the next brew day that kink relaxes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a soak in very warm water, in side and out should loosen it back up.  Then you can coil it nice as it cools and you should be fine.  OR just clip one end of it up so it all lays loosely in a slack line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T13:01:44.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-02T15:35:19.433" Score="18" ViewCount="19551" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long will bottled beer last without refrigeration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1180" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-06-07T17:12:15.710" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T01:33:40.713" Title="How long will bottled beer last?" Tags="|beer|bottling|bottle-conditioning|spoilage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3851" CreationDate="2011-04-02T16:07:53.010" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the beer and the storage conditions.  To start, the stronger and hoppier the beer, the longer it will keep.  For instance, a hefeweizen won't keep as long as a barleywine.  The temperature is also important.  Generally, cooler is better.  The main thing is to avoid excessively high (85+) temps.  Avoiding temp swings helps, but it's mainly high temps that are your enemy.  I've kept 1.100+ bbers like Am. BW and RIS for 10 years at normal room temps and the age just improves their complexity.  Of course, you must have excellent sanitation, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-04-02T17:14:45.623" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T17:14:45.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3851" CreationDate="2011-04-02T18:38:49.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Brewchez and Denny have said, avoiding high temperatures and light are the most important parts.  I've found that a lot of my &quot;muddy&quot; beers have cleaned up after around a year of storage in a dark ~65F closet.  Case in point, I had a pumpkin ale that was neigh undrinkable two years ago, and almost an entire case remained in the closet.  This fall I dug it out again and found that all the &quot;pumpkin pie spice&quot; flavors that they always talk about had melded into something surprisingly drinkable.  I wouldn't go more than a year or two for low-gravity beers, but I'd say leave it in there, forget about it, and you might be surprised by how well things turn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1198" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T18:38:49.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-03T17:37:27.800" Score="2" ViewCount="1088" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/367/whats-the-difference-between-2-row-and-6-row-malt&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s the difference between 2-row and 6-row malt?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing all-grain for several years, but have been using recipes and kits. I'm starting to develop my own recipes, using the process outlined in &quot;Designing Great Beers&quot; by Ray Daniels, but it's not clear to me what the difference is between 2-row and 6-row base malt.  When should I use one vs. the other?  What are the advantages or disadvantages of each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-04-03T19:35:59.697" Title="What's the difference between 2-row and 6 row base malt?" Tags="|ingredients|all-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2011-04-04T15:29:53.000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3854" CreationDate="2011-04-03T18:53:25.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, most recipes are written for 2 row pale malt as the base.  6 row has more husk material and tastes a little &quot;grainier&quot;.  In years past, 6 row was used mainly as a base in NAILs due to its higher diastatic power, which helped convert the adjuncts used in those beers.  Today's 2 row malts have almost as much diastatic power as 6 row, so that's no longer the main reason to use 6 row.  The main uses of it are when you want the extra husks' material to aid in lautering huskless adjuncts (although there are other ways to do that) or for the slightly grainier flavor, which is typical of styles like CAP or ALL.  Usually, you'll want to use 2 row malt for your base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-04-03T19:35:59.697" LastActivityDate="2011-04-03T19:35:59.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-03T21:54:19.380" Score="0" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3797/recapping-my-bottles-will-it-ruin-the-outcome-of-my-beer&quot;&gt;recapping my bottles? Will it ruin the outcome of my beer?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if my beer will end up flat no carbonation because i ended up recapping the whole batch. I recapped the batch after i didnt have enough in the bottles. So i poured more in two days after bottling to top them off so i wouldnt have any explode on me.. The main thing that im worried about is that they will not carbonate now? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-04-03T21:54:19.380" Title="will i end up with flat beer?" Tags="|beer|carbonation|recapping|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-04-04T15:29:08.260" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2011-04-04T06:08:02.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In BC most people seem to use Howe Sound brewing one liter pop top bottles. They use water proof labels though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1151" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T06:08:02.180" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-04T06:08:02.180" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4482" CreationDate="2011-04-04T10:36:48.313" Score="10" ViewCount="13346" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've got an apple tree that produces more fruit than we know what to do with, so being cider lovers, we decided to get into brewing.  Our first batch of cider was very dry so we've been adding sugar after opening which is a pain.  We want a slightly sweet cider that is still alcoholic and are looking for ways to either interrupt the ferment early without ruining the sparkle or sweeten the mix prior to bottling that won't cause an explosion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm alergic/paranoid about sulphites and my wife is lactose intolerant.  I've read pasteurizing negatively affects flavour.  Sulphites and pasturising may also prevent priming...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My cider book makes a vague reference to racking off twice as a way to eliminate yeast and interrupt/slow the fermentation process to produce a sweet cider.  Can anyone explain this?  Or can anyone offer a better suggestion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA,&#xA;Luke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1201" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-04-06T11:11:07.853" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T16:39:40.947" Title="Sweet sparkling cider without pasteurizing, sulphites or lactose" Tags="|cider|sweetness|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-04T12:07:43.220" Score="18" ViewCount="33015" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a bit of trouble with a thermostat on a 2nd hand fridge, I discovered that my latest batch of bottled, ready-to-drink brew had frozen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens to beer when it freezes?  Will the taste be affected?  Does the level of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T13:52:44.157" Title="What happens when beer freezes?" Tags="|beer|temperature|frozen|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3859" CreationDate="2011-04-04T12:20:10.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;did the bottles explode or pop the caps off? if not then you may be okay. I believe freezing will cause the CO2 to come out of solution but if the bottles didn't blow then it may go back a few weeks after they're thawed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if freezing would affect the flavor or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T12:20:10.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3859" CreationDate="2011-04-04T12:42:52.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that freezing will cause a permanent haze, but I don't think it will harm the flavor in any significant way.    As long as the bottles are sealed, all of the &quot;stuff&quot; that's in there will stay in there, so it shouldn't affect the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-04-04T13:12:09.497" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T13:12:09.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3858" CreationDate="2011-04-04T15:43:21.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to make sweet sparling cider is to force carbonate the cider using a kegging system.  You will however need to employ some means of arresting the yeasts activity in order to either stop fermentation early or before you back sweeten.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of sulfites you can use potassium sorbate which will prevent the yeast from multiplying but you need to make sure most of the yeast has dropped out of suspension.  You can do this by chilling and racking a few times before sweetening and after adding the sorbate.  You will also want to store the cider at cold temperatures to help minimize the chance of refermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also more traditional methods used to make sweet sparkling cider such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cider.org.uk/keeving.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;keeving&lt;/a&gt; or defecation but are very involved and do take some time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T15:43:21.583" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3866" CreationDate="2011-04-04T18:46:57.490" Score="4" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to learn more about brewing, but am not concerned with the basic mechanics as I've been doing all grain for several years.  What are some good books on creating your own recipes, improving/better understanding your process, or even just improving your understanding of the different characteristics of beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: After reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/09/good-subjective-bad-subjective/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Good Subjective Bad Subjective&lt;/a&gt; I'll attempt to better define the question.  I'd like to know specifically how to approach creating a recipe with a style or specific example in mind, including things like selecting ingredients, determining mash schedules, fermentation temperatures, etc.  Ideally I'd like to know specifically how a book has helped a more experienced brewer (lets just say more than a couple brews).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-04-04T20:18:31.840" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T00:04:02.380" Title="What books would help me improve at recipe creation?" Tags="|books|learning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3863" CreationDate="2011-04-04T18:52:26.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2009/02/book-review-designing-great-beers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Designing Great Beers&lt;/a&gt; has been the most helpful to me.   It's also the most dog-eared and mangled of all of my brewing books, because I keep coming back to it for reference of one sort or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the two biggest things I got out of the first part of the book are the explanation of the chemical compounds in the hops, and the bitterness to gravity ratio.  There's a whole lot more in there, though, and it's the most technical of the brewing books I own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used the second half of the book to help figure out what sorts of things to put together to have a decent example of a particular style.  Usually, I'll read through the chapter on the style before attempting to make my own recipe.  Though, as Denny says below, this information is somewhat out of date, and some of it is based on some pretty statistically insignificant sample sizes.  It also doesn't cover Belgian beers in any sort of depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-04-04T20:47:03.803" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T20:47:03.803" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3863" CreationDate="2011-04-04T21:20:23.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If DGB has an entry about the style I'm interested in, I'll read it. But there are a lot of styles that it misses. As others have said, the first half of DGB is still solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-classic-styles-zainasheff-and-palmer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewing Classic Styles&lt;/a&gt; covers all the BJCP styles and gives a decent introduction &amp;amp; recipe for each. It's also more recent than DGB. So that's a book I'll always use when working on a recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I usually check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/catdex.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP guidelines&lt;/a&gt; for that style, since those frequently include notes on recipes or procedures specific to a style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly I'll sometimes listen to the episode of &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/The-Jamil-Show&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Jamil Show&lt;/a&gt; that covers the style. There's a lot of overlap between the show and the entry in Brewing Classic Styles, but sometimes there are some interesting tidbits in the Jamil Show that aren't in his book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T21:20:23.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3863" CreationDate="2011-04-04T21:21:24.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing Classic Styles is a recipe book, but you can learn how to formulate your own recipes by analyzing what Jamil did.  I often use it as a starting point in designing my own recipes.  I'd say the key is not to go to any one book.  Look at several and kind of &quot;average&quot; their recommendations.  Add in your own knowledge and experience with what various ingredients taste like.  Although not a book, the AHA recipe wiki &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/Recipes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/Recipes&lt;/a&gt; is a great source to see what award winning brewers are doing in terms of recipes.  I'm generally leery of recipe websites, but this one is pretty good.  BLAM not only has some good recipes in it, but has solid info on ingredients and how they're used that will aid in creating your own recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T21:21:24.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4089" CreationDate="2011-04-05T01:11:29.560" Score="3" ViewCount="907" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you used Bravo hops? What kind of bitterness/aroma do they confer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T20:11:22.503" Title="What's the flavor profile of Bravo hops?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3870" CreationDate="2011-04-05T01:23:31.750" Score="8" ViewCount="2188" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's tons of hops out there, but I don't have the time or space to try them all, and I like to bounce between English and American ales. What's a good, balanced bittering hop that will let me keep just one bittering hop on hand? For later additions, I'd like to be able to go toward the Goldings and Fuggles (English), or toward the Cascades and Amarillos (American), without any clash of flavor from the bittering hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Columbus has a reputation as a &quot;clean&quot; bittering hop, and I've used it to good effect in a stout, but there's so much going on in a stout that it's hard to say whether there was a lingering flavor there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to do a series of 30 IBU cream ales with only a 60 minute addition of a single hop each to see if I can detect the differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2012-03-22T13:20:01.793" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T13:20:01.793" Title="What's a balanced bittering hop for both English and American ales?" Tags="|hops|bittering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-04-05T13:20:41.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd vote for either Galena or Magnum. Both are high-alpha bittering hops that have a very clean, neutral flavor profile. Just good clean bitterness, not the American twang of, say Chinook or Simcoe, nor the &quot;noble&quot; flavor of the German hops. Think of them as the &quot;US-05 of hops&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used both in bittering additions for English and American ales, although I've never done a side by side experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And since they are high alpha, you can buy a few ounces at a time and use them across multiple batches. Galena especially can be stored at home for a long time before it starts to lose its alphas. It was bred to be a long-lasting hops, supposedly even when stored at room temps (but I wouldn't do that just to be safe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2011-04-06T01:11:51.320" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T01:11:51.320" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-05T15:27:56.997" Score="3" ViewCount="633" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a diacetyl rest for a week or more adversely affect the beer in any way?  With our busy lives it's easy to forget about a batch for a few days (especially when it's in the dark recesses of a cellar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-04-05T19:20:31.433" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T19:20:31.433" Title="Does the length of a diacetyl rest matter?" Tags="|fermentation|temperature|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3871" CreationDate="2011-04-05T16:24:45.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my own experience, a week is fine.  If you use enough good healthy yeast and give your beer a long primary, a d rest is unnecessary almost all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T16:24:45.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3871" CreationDate="2011-04-05T16:25:02.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really, no. If you're doing a beer that has diacetyl as part of the flavor (such as English ales), then you might find that flavor missing, or lessened, in the final beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing to watch out for is leaving the beer at high temperatures for longer periods of time. The higher the temperature, the faster the settled yeast will begin to contribute off flavors to your beer. I can't see one week at diacetyl-rest temp being a problem, but 4+ weeks at 80+ degrees and you'd probably start to notice a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T16:25:02.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2011-04-05T16:50:38.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rahr &amp;amp; Sons (TX only) is super easy.  They recently switched to a pre-pasted label type sticker.  They come off in one piece leaving behind little or no adhesive with just a little heat.  I use a sink full of hot water for 5 or 10 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T16:50:38.267" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-05T16:50:38.267" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-05T17:01:17.957" Score="4" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say 70 - 74°­F (21 - 24°C) I normally do what the books say and rest somewhere in the 60s but this means brining my fermentation freezer up to that temperature.  I am mostly an Ale brewer so normally this is not a problem as I only have one lager fermenting at a time.  Just curious what other people are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T20:42:23.867" Title="Has anyone ever had problems with a 2 day diacetyl rest at room temperature?" Tags="|fermentation|temperature|lager|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3878" CreationDate="2011-04-05T17:14:04.673" Score="3" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a Stone Russian Imperial Stout clone, per their official recipe in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stonebrew.com/news/081201/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Magazine&lt;/a&gt;.  After collecting my wort, I was draining my mash tun and was saddened to see what appeared to be a perfectly drinkable stout in the making going down my alley.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you make a really high gravity beer, specifically by increasing your mash not just increasing your boil, and you choose to make a lower gravity beer from the same grain, how do you come up with a recipe?  Do you usually aim for a similar taste, with the same types of hops and yeast?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T17:49:04.503" Title="How do you come up with a recipe to use for &quot;Second Runnings&quot;?" Tags="|recipe|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3876" CreationDate="2011-04-05T17:40:22.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just take a look at what I've got in my inventory and wing it.  I almost always cap the mash with some additional grain, usually crystal of some sort.  I've found that second runnings beers can have a thin body and adding more crystal helps with that.  In addition, you don't have to worry about conversion using crystal or other non diastatic malts.  As to deciding on the style, it depends on the base beer.  If you start with something like an RIS your options are more limited than with something like a BW.  With the RIS, you could make a dry stout or maybe even a brown ale.  If you start with a lighter, more &quot;neutral&quot; beer first, you have more options of what to add to get to an entirely different style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T17:40:22.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3876" CreationDate="2011-04-05T17:40:48.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are wanting to do is basically a parti-gyle.  This is where you run off multiple beers from a single mash.  There are many different ways to go about this but the most common is to run off your strong beer and then your secondary.  You can also blend the two worts to reach differing target gravities or do a 1/3-2/3 runoff.  Here is an article written by Randy Mosher titled &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.2/mosher.html#1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Parti-Gyle Brewing&lt;/a&gt;&quot; that outlines the processes and calculations necessary to estimate the gravities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-04-05T17:49:04.503" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T17:49:04.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3875" CreationDate="2011-04-05T17:41:29.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those temps are not a problem at all for a d rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T17:41:29.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3863" CreationDate="2011-04-05T19:34:26.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Books are great places to start.  But realistically, I have found that my recipe formulation never really got any better until I started to &lt;em&gt;brew&lt;/em&gt; rather than read.  I don't mean that in a facetious way.  I brewed my Oatmeal stout about 7 different ways until I really understood how each ingredient created the beer the way I wanted to taste it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Books are great places to start, but if you brew a great recipe from a book or a website, you haven't really learned a lot about recipe formulation.  The best way is to get a recipe from one of the great books mentioned or a trusted brewing friend and start brewing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brew your favorite brown ale one time without chocolate malt in it, and you'll be infinitely further ahead of the game than if you had ever read the book.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T00:04:02.380" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T00:04:02.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3858" CreationDate="2011-04-05T19:38:46.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brew the driest cider you can.  Then back sweeten with simple syrup at the point of serving.  I little squeegy bottle of simple syrup and you can mix it to taste.  Your wife might like it sweeter or drier than you and you both have control over the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are kind of out of luck if you don't want to use the methods you described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, any flavor issues that may exist with pasteurization are likely over come with recipe changes.  I'd research that more carefully.  Pasteurization isn't all that bad actually.  Many of your favorite foods that currently taste great are pasteurized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T19:38:46.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3858" CreationDate="2011-04-05T23:08:28.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem and solved it by using sucralose (Splenda) to backsweeten. Yeast doesn't process it and it tastes just like sucrose at the same concentrations (saccharin can be bitter). BTW - the scare tactics used by the sugar lobby against sucralose are nonsense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for pasteurizing, never had it effect my ciders (I do apple, pear, raspberry, peach, and cactus pear and the pear and peach are really subtle flavors). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as priming goes, I use this calculator (2.0 volumes of carbon dioxide is about the same level as commercial hard cider) with great success (http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do a lot of specialty ciders that require stopping the fermentation in order to prevent the yeast from processing flavor ingredients and use pasteurizing to do so. Kegging is indeed the easiest but unless your REALLY into drinking large volumes in a short amount of time, it can be very expensive when compared to natural bottling by the time you buy a bottling gun and believe me, you'll want one if you have a kegging system. Another way to carbonate is to use dry ice, you have to add it directly to each bottle and that is a pain. There are carbonation drops as well, but I haven't used them and am reluctant to add things to what I drink that I don't know about as a chemist. Hope this is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T23:08:28.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3842" CreationDate="2011-04-05T23:11:34.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a hair drier while hanging it. This works well on Tygon tubing that is temperature resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T23:11:34.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3897" CreationDate="2011-04-06T01:48:40.020" Score="2" ViewCount="775" Body="&lt;p&gt;When bottling my cider (FG 1.000) I ran out of bottles and saw this as an opportunity to flavour the remaining third and try racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added some boiled cinnamon and clove then left it for a day while I got around to purchasing a second carboy.  It occurred to me that this may have been bad when the cider turned brown and, I swear, developed a heavier mouth feel.  I suspect drawing in oxygen through my water lock as I bottled may have started it turning to vinegar.  Could this or anything else bad happen so quick?  (we used apples from our tree with no potassium metabisulphate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To rescue the situation, I racked the 5 litres to a smaller carboy, begrudgingly adding half a tablet of potassium metabisulphate to kill off anything bad and added a small amount of brown sugar to initiate a small secondary ferment to push the O2 out of the head.  I used brown sugar because i figured the caramel would go well with the cinnamon.  I also decided to back-sweeten with a small about of splenda (to taste).   The contents of my glass carboy looks thick, cloudy and dark.  It concerns me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were these measures appropriate?  How long should I expect the secondary ferment and clearing to take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA, &#xA;Luke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1201" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T19:25:02.560" Title="Is leaving some cider in the primary bad?" Tags="|cider|racking|oxygenation|vinegar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-06T11:20:38.573" Score="6" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a debate with a brewing buddy of mine about malts that &quot;need to be mashed&quot;.&#xA;For instance victory malt is listed in Palmers &quot;How to Brew&quot; as being in the needs to be mashed column.  I can understand that there are unconverted starches in the malts and mashing them makes fermentable sugars, blah blah blah.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Base malt certainly needs to be mashed because it normally consists of 80-100% of the grist.  But if you were putting victory malt in at the rate of 5% or less.  What starch load would you really get?   If you made a base wort and steeped 5% of victory in a 6 gallon batch would a starch test even show positive?  What does it matter at such a low amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes victory different than say crystal or chocolate malt, that it needs to be mashed when we are using them for small flavor or color adjustments?  Victory can't self convert, but neither can Crystal 60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what does it really mean &quot;needs to be mashed&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T03:37:42.650" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T03:37:42.650" Title="Needs to be mashed" Tags="|beer|ingredients|mash|conversion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3885" CreationDate="2011-04-06T13:47:30.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you've already answered your question, really.  Grains &quot;need&quot; to be mashed if you &quot;need&quot; their sugar contributions for the OG.  If you're just looking for flavor/color contributions, then you don't need to mash.  If the grain is particularly starch, that might be an undesirable contribution based on how starchy, what percentage of the mash it is, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &quot;needs to be mashed&quot; just means &quot;can't self-convert/needs diastatic enzymes from another malt&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T13:47:30.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2967" CreationDate="2011-04-06T15:05:23.077" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with your friend. I always shake my bottles first when I'm pouring for secondery fermentation. Be careful to make sure the first fementation is complete or you'll  cause the bottle to explode because it's relesing to much CO2. It helps make a good head when pouring and helps the yeast to become active again especially if you're using carbonation drops that dont dissolve straight away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1206" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T18:25:29.210" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T18:25:29.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3890" CreationDate="2011-04-06T16:00:46.853" Score="4" ViewCount="9681" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently fell in love with Green Flash's Double stout.  I noticed their bottles feel significantly heavier than all my other bottles, and in looking online found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://thefullpint.com/beer-news/green-flash-brewing-releases-silva-stout-to-introduce-packaging-change&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;press release&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know many of the 750 ml bottles I've purchased feel more substantial as well, and Maredsous 8 I seem to recall being heavier (and smaller), but is there reason to choose specific bottles for specific brews, ignoring the presentation aspect?  I expect that higher pressure would only be related to higher levels of carbonation, which is curious as I certainly didn't think the double stout I had was in any way excessively carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2022-08-25T15:36:04.703" Title="Do some beers really require special bottles due to pressure?" Tags="|bottle|pressure|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3888" CreationDate="2011-04-06T16:04:01.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose if you went crazy with carbonation, then you would.  But at that point the beer would be so highly carbed it would be difficult to pour.  If you look at highly carbed beers like hefe or some Belgians, there's nothing special about those bottles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T16:04:01.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3888" CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:38:18.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, yes.  I've read that a longneck industry standard bottle is only rated to about 4 volumes of CO2 - so more highly carbonated beer styles, like weizens, lambics, and certain Belgians, need heavier glass bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing a brewery wants is to release a batch of bottle bombs, so the ratings typically have a generous safety factor applied, but when you consider brittle fracture mechanics, and the irregularities in the surface finish, it's completely necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, if you've ever tried the bar trick where you pop a bottle full of water by hitting your palm on the mouth, you've seen how little pressure is really needed to blow up a bottle.  Try the same trick on a heavy Belgian 750 - it's almost impossible to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T19:38:18.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3895" CreationDate="2011-04-06T20:27:13.097" Score="4" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only recently been introduced to the glory of sour beers, and I love them.  As a club, we're going to be brewing a sour beer to be aged in oak for years to come, so I was curious to see some questions on here about sour mashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the process is still similar, you're collecting bacteria and wild yeasts (we'll be using a commercially available combo pack), but is there an inherent value to doing this pre-boil?  Is this simply a way of getting the sour you want and then stopping the process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T19:17:16.433" Title="What does sour mash do for a sour beer?" Tags="|mash|sour|open-fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3891" CreationDate="2011-04-06T20:49:19.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that some of the souring organisms prefer a more acid environment (lower pH) than the typical wort can provide.   I think you can get a similar effect in a shorter time by using acidulated malt.  I don't know what sort of flavor differences that you'd see when doing that, though.   Presumably the sour mash will produce a much more complex set of compounds than simply adding the acid malt.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sour_mash&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sour Mash wiki article&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T20:49:19.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2011-04-06T21:05:42.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck with WLP008 East Coast Ale yeast for pseudo lagers.  Your attenuation will be a little lower but very clean to my pallet. Works well at 72°F (my brew room temp). It does require a little time to mature in the bottle / keg. Young it has a slight sour taste. To my knowledge Wyeast doesn't have a competitor for the East Coast Ale strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T21:05:42.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3885" CreationDate="2011-04-06T23:44:29.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grains that don't need to be mashed fall into two categories, crystal malts and highly kilned malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crystals - you're right that they can't &quot;self convert&quot; but they don't need to - the conversion is already done. So they don't need to be mashed - their sugars can be extracted by steeping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chocolate and other highly kilned malts are usually used in small quantities. Although these technically can be mashed, their contribution is mainly color rather than sugar. If starch is transferred to the beer by these dark malts, it's usually not noticable since the strength of the color far outweighs the cloudiness from the starch content. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not mashing victory malt might not do any harm, but even at 5% you can end up with  cloudier beer, since it doesn't contribute a strong color and the starch will be visible.  If it's just a color enhancement you are looking for, consider using 1/4 oz of chocolate malt, or caramunich, which like all crystals, will give a good head and round out the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T23:44:29.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3891" CreationDate="2011-04-07T11:56:50.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the reason for doing this pre-boil is so you can achieve the sourness you want, then kill the bacteria.  That way it doesn't interfere with your yeast and let the sourness get out of control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T11:56:50.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3891" CreationDate="2011-04-07T17:11:05.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't think of any Belgian sour beers that are produced using a sour mash.  As far as I can recall, they all use bacteria in the fermenter to achieve it.  Of course, that's not to say that you can't use a sour mash to produce a sour beer.  I think that there's a Kentucky common that does that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T17:11:05.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3884" CreationDate="2011-04-07T19:25:02.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest this. First, leaving a split batch (so to speak) in the primary hasn't been negative for me. What you are describing in terms of color and cloudiness would seem to be the result of adding the cinnamon and clove directly to the carboy. I use brew sock material when I do my own flavored ciders to reduce the cloudiness (I suppose that you could use cheesecloth as well but use multiple thicknesses). Since it has already been done, I'd filter it through a coffee filter or use gelatin/clarifying drops to settle out the suspended particles (I suspect that the heavier mouth is because of these). Using the Campden would kill all of your yeast and I'm surprised you got any gas action afterward. Repitching with some new yeast may take care of this problem. Honestly, if it were my batch, I'd rack it off into a bottling bucket, clarify it with gelatin, rack it back into a carboy and repitch. I had to do this with a Red Hots cider and the results were ok (only problem was the brew didn't have much of the red hot flavor). One trick that I have found to be critical that doesn't get mentioned is to make certain that there is good oxygen supply in the brew mix for the yeast to work when pitching. Let us know how it turns out. Hope this is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T19:25:02.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3888" CreationDate="2011-04-07T20:07:13.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.welshcider.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;task=view&amp;amp;id=37&amp;amp;Itemid=36&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this cidermaker&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;regular&quot; beer bottles can hold up to 3 atm (45 psi), and &quot;champagne&quot; bottles can hold up to 6 atm (90 psi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Champagne-style bottles with the large dimple in the bottom are the strongest. That bottom will withstand more pressure before failure than a flat bottom. I bet a standard crown cap would fail before the bottle--you'd need a cork with a wire cork basket to withstand 6 atm!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T20:07:13.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3851" CreationDate="2011-04-07T20:32:27.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;BrewYourOwn magazine (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/issue/list/issues/280-marapr-2011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mar/Apr 2011&lt;/a&gt;) just did an experiment on how storage temps affect home brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their main finding was just as Denny said: high temps will degrade the beer and cause off-flavors. In this experiment the &quot;high temps&quot; were &gt;100° (like in an attic during the summer) for weeks at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Room temp&quot; storage was almost indistinguishable from &quot;Cellar temp&quot; storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T20:32:27.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3875" CreationDate="2011-04-07T20:42:23.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you describe is exactly what I do. I move my fermenter from the basement (~50°F) to the study (~70°F) and leave it for 2-3 days before racking it to a keg for the lagering fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since primary fermentation is done and most of the sugar has already been metabolized, there's little or no danger of creating estery off-flavors from the higher fermentation temp. That's more of a worry at the beginning, when fermentation is first taking off and the yeast are thriving on all the sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T20:42:23.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3912" CreationDate="2011-04-08T01:28:04.337" Score="5" ViewCount="1143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an extensive database of grains, hops, yeasts, and other additives. Preferably with information like potential, SRM, alpha, flocculation, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found BeerSmith's lists, but the copyright is questionable, and the data isn't exhaustive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T15:33:45.453" Title="Complete Ingredient List/Database?" Tags="|ingredients|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2011-04-08T12:45:12.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hopville.com&lt;/a&gt;. Their recipe creator, which is free, lists a lot of info on malts/hops/yeasts etc. You can even add new ingredients as they come out and enter their info as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T12:45:12.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-08T14:42:33.513" Score="4" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently did my first batch of beer: Oktoberfest (True Brew kit).  Brewed up the wort, fermented and bottled to a T.  When it came time to open I was immediately encouraged by great aroma, great color, carbonation and head retention.  I was certain I had done everything right according to the recipe and had achieved a great beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon tasting I was slightly disappointed by a less characteristic light flavor.  I'm wondering what I did in the process to cause this?  The beer is not bad, just not at all what I expected, very bland.  Perhaps it's the brew kit itself? I usually expect my Oktoberfest's to have a richer full bodied flavor while this Oktoberfest drank more like a very light bodied smooth Amber Ale.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some important notes: The gentleman at the home brew supply store switched out the initial Lagering yeast of the kit and replaced with an ale yeast so it could be fermented and bottled as an Ale would be versus as a Lager at cooler fermentation.  My wort was more concentrated, I believe 2 gallons in full, and then added to 3 gallons of water.  Fermented for 9 days, aged in bottle for another 10.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just want to know what I need to correct in my methods before moving forward with my next batch, I am expecting greatness here, but realize the time it takes to achieve it.  I appreciate any response in advance, thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ryan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1214" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-04-08T16:46:07.197" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T17:43:07.160" Title="Why did my Oktoberfest turn out so light?" Tags="|flavor|lagering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2011-04-08T15:22:15.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe I know why you're looking... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the full line of data you want, without the copyright issues, you might want to start with a manufacturer list from BeerSmith or any of the other ones, and then grab the manufacturer catalogs. You might even be able to find them online (ie scrape-able).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewerssupplygroup.com/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewers Supply Group&lt;/a&gt; has a LOT of their info online, save for pricing. Check out their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewerssupplygroup.com/Malt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;malt&lt;/a&gt;, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T15:22:15.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-08T15:43:19.383" Score="4" ViewCount="2286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two 15g stainless conicals in a fridge and I am building an advanced controller to heat and cool the whole mess. Some details on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finack.com/beerhacker/frak&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blog&lt;/a&gt; for those who are curious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/16674//The_FermWrap_Heater&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fermwrap&lt;/a&gt; from More Beer to heat the conicals but I feel it works much better for carboys. The fermwrap is hard to get on the conical in such a way to maximize contact and heat transfer. I also want more juice then 40w so I would have to have 4 of these just to cover to conicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the thermwells, controllers, and cooling figured out, just not an optimal solution for heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question: Can you recommend a good way to heat 15g SS Conical Fermenters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1215" LastEditorUserId="1215" LastEditDate="2011-04-08T17:08:46.483" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T12:18:33.190" Title="Options for heating a stainless conical fermenter" Tags="|fermenter|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3913" CreationDate="2011-04-08T15:52:37.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It undoubtedly had to do with the ingredients in the kit.  Is there any way for you to know what was in it?  Using an ale yeast instead of a lager yeast will mean it is less clean and crisp than a lager would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-04-08T16:09:51.523" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T16:09:51.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3848" CreationDate="2011-04-08T16:12:20.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After putting a heating pad against the carboy for a few days, I've started to get yeast activity.  I'm speculating that the must was too cold for the yeast when I pitched it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, I'll check the temperature when I pitch the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still not certain what the spots were, but they haven't shown back up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1123" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T16:12:20.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3913" CreationDate="2011-04-08T16:13:47.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you've done everything correctly - maybe you just had the wrong expectation for the kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked up the recipe and plugged the ingredients into my beer calculator, and assuming the can of amber extract was 4 lb LME, it should put you right in the middle of the range for an Oktoberfest - 10 SRM, and nice maltiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm seeing that the kit should come standard with ale yeast - this, of course, won't have the same characteristics as a lager, but I would expect that if the kit were designed as an ale, that the flavor should be good with an ale yeast.  It might not hurt to double-check that you used an appropriate strain - something more malty.  Last year I brewed a bock with an ale yeast - Wyeast 1007 (German Ale), and it came out surprisingly tasty for an ale yeast in a lager recipe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing is that it looks like that recipe might be designed for a really small boil - the instructions say to only add 1 to 1.5 gallons water for the boil.  Staying on the lower end of volume will result in more kettle caramelization, which will help with flavor and body, although the trade-off is lower hop utilization, so your beer won't have as much hop bite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that if you used a good strain of yeast, then the problem is just that you expected more of the kit than it was capable of delivering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T16:13:47.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3921" CreationDate="2011-04-08T18:38:05.990" Score="1" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I emailed this to the Mr. Beer beermaster, but I figured I'd ask here as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my Doppelbock 7.0, this Sunday will make it 3 weeks in the keg for fermentation. The previous beer I made was a pale ale, and I let that one ferment 3 weeks also, and waited to bottle until the surface cleared up. The doppelbock krausen cleared up after about a week, and at about the 1.5-week mark I noticed the surface was speckled with a lot of bright white spots. I assumed it to be yeast colonies, but unlike the yeast colonies for the pale ale, these spots haven't changed since I noticed them. They haven't grown or shrunk. Is this yeast? Is it bacteria? Should I wait to bottle it until it goes away? Is the beer infected? I tasted it, and it didn't have any horrible flavors, though I did notice a decent amount of hop particles in the glass. Is that something that will settle as I bottle condition it? I have been able to keep the temperature between 66 and 68 degrees throughout, except that the first 2 days it was at 56 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1061" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T00:12:54.393" Title="End of Fermentation?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|bacteria|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3891" CreationDate="2011-04-08T19:17:16.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/9-all-grain-brewing/1723-sour-mashing-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BYO's article&lt;/a&gt; great article on the difference between making your beer sour during the boil or making it sour during fermentation. In researching a Flanders Red, I found an article from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.parc.com/emdl/members/apte/flemishredale.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Raj Apt, How to Make Sour Beer&lt;/a&gt;. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style17.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP Style 17&lt;/a&gt; also has good reference data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, most of the really tasty sour beers are getting the sour profile during fermentation with &quot;bugs&quot;, e.g. Brettanomyces, Lactobaccillus, etc. The base beer is fairly traditional with lactic acid (from bacteria) providing the sour profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your point, there are some great combo yeast and bacteria packs from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/bacteria.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_productdetail.cfm?ProductID=17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast&lt;/a&gt;. There also some boutique vendors like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.facebook.com/pages/East-Coast-Yeast/168646113149281?v=info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;East Coast Yeast&lt;/a&gt; that are making stellar yeast and bacteria products.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check out Jamil's book, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&amp;amp;bc1=000000&amp;amp;IS2=1&amp;amp;bg1=FFFFFF&amp;amp;fc1=000000&amp;amp;lc1=0000FF&amp;amp;t=fi0c2-20&amp;amp;o=1&amp;amp;p=8&amp;amp;l=as4&amp;amp;m=amazon&amp;amp;f=ifr&amp;amp;ref=ss_til&amp;amp;asins=0937381926&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewing Classic Styles&lt;/a&gt; which has some good articles on sour and lambiac styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1215" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T19:17:16.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3919" CreationDate="2011-04-09T00:12:54.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you asking not so much about is it ready to bottle as far as being done fermenting, but what are the little white spots. I had a friend who's first batch did the same thing. This is what I did as I have never seen it before either.&lt;br&gt; I got my racking cane (sanitized) and with the little black end that keeps it out of the sediment, scooped a bit of one of the white blobs off and tasted it. It was simply sugary foam that didn't dissolve/pop all the way. &lt;br&gt; Bottom line: if it tastes and smells fine, and the gravity is good then it is ok to bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T00:12:54.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3923" CreationDate="2011-04-09T00:43:59.580" Score="2" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1-gallon kit from the Brooklyn Brew Shop (don't laugh; I'm a total n00b). I have a batch of the Chestnut Brown fermenting -- but there is no visible fermentation at all. While I had the blow-off tube connected there was clearly fermentation, but no longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a clear indication of a bad batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; The batch is 1 week into the fermentation (out of a recommended 2 weeks) and it's currently 57°F. When I took off the airlock to check the temperature, there was nothing unusual about the smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1064" LastEditorUserId="1064" LastEditDate="2011-04-09T01:02:04.330" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T02:01:03.037" Title="Does no visible fermentation mean I have a bad batch?" Tags="|fermentation|brown|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3922" CreationDate="2011-04-09T01:14:20.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're probably doing alright.   That is a little bit cool for an ale, but the most active part of fermentation is usually done in 3-5 days.   The extra few days is for the yeast to go back and clean up some by-products that they left over from the initial fermentation period, and for them to settle out of suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T01:14:20.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3922" CreationDate="2011-04-09T02:01:03.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Baka's answer and Brechez's comments. And as with all &quot;is this done&quot; type of questions, would recommend getting a hydrometer. Also never be apologetic for how big of batches you are doing or where you got them. We all started somewhere and starting is the most important part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T02:01:03.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2899" CreationDate="2011-04-09T02:53:33.740" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some yeasts will give you a very potent product - up to 14% alcohol - but you do not get a particularly pleasant flavor if you use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try to brew from the start using potent yeast, the beer does not taste like anything you would meet normally - it has a musty odor and taste. That is why more than one yeast is used (sometimes they stop at two and call the beer a doppel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you first brew with a beer yeast until the gas coming off is fading, then add a stronger lager yeast and leave that until the gas coming off is fading, then add a wine yeast, give it a couple of days, filter and bottle it - you get to the &quot;Tripel&quot; concept that the Belgians love - a beer that tastes acceptable with a kick like a mule&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, that final filtration must not filter out all the yeast, just the lumpy stuff ... You need a little yeast left in to condition the beer, or it will be flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1217" LastEditorUserId="1217" LastEditDate="2011-04-09T11:42:53.233" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T11:42:53.233" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3942" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-09T04:10:04.703" Score="7" ViewCount="7437" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had to recap my bottles to fill the level up so I didn't have any explode on me. Now they have been sitting for 2 1/2 weeks. Opened one up and there is no carbonation.. is there a way to recarbonate your beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1180" LastEditorUserId="225" LastEditDate="2011-04-10T18:37:52.040" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T18:37:52.040" Title="No carbonation in the bottles?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-09T12:47:38.100" Score="3" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the risk of being flagged off-topic, as this is a bit tangential to actual brewing and fermentation...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's Spring, and the beer festival season isn't exactly in &quot;full-swing&quot; yet, but I don't know too many homebrewers who don't try to attend at least a couple of festivals over the course of a year.  They're a great way to get some inspiration for future batches, to meet other people interested in the hobby, and to just try out all sorts of beer that you might not have tried otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From camp furniture to your favorite snifter, what do you consider &quot;essential equipment&quot; to take with you to a beer festival?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T15:56:56.353" Title="What supplies to bring to a beer festival?" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-02T16:46:57.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3958" CreationDate="2011-04-09T13:53:13.873" Score="6" ViewCount="14275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed up a few batches of extract beer so far &amp;amp; all have come up crystal clear.  I've just sampled my first batch of beer (ginger ale) that's come up quite cloudy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What causes cloudiness?  Is it intrinsic to certain styles or is it a byproduct of certain conditions?  Or both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T15:53:54.703" Title="What causes cloudiness in beer?" Tags="|beer|color|cloudy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2011-04-09T14:46:28.017" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Cloudiness in Beer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cloudiness in beer has several main causes.  For some styles of beer, such as a witbier, it is desirable, and for others, it is regarded as a flaw.  It is, therefore, important to understand what factors influence clarity and cloudiness of beer so that you can control the appearance of your beer as best possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Suspended Proteins&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspended proteins usually make a beer look dull and ugly, regardless of style.  Proteins in beer can contribute to chill haze, in which cooling the beer to around fridge temp drives proteins out of solution, creating lumpy clouds that disappear as the beer warms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hot break and cold break are important parts of the brewing process.  The hot break is proteins coagulating as the boil begins to roll.  The cold break, which drives even more protein out of suspension, happens as a result of rapidly cooling the wort after the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These proteins settle to the bottom of the wort after it sits for only a few minutes, so it's easy to rack the beer into your fermentor and leave these proteins behind.  Additives such as Irish moss or whirlfloc will also help to clear these proteins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Unsettled Yeast&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast that has not flocculated, or settled, is generally the biggest factor in the clarity of homebrew.  Some strains of yeast have been selectively bred to be more flocculent than others, so when choosing a yeast, check the level of flocculation of the yeast and compare that to how the style of beer should look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Highly flocculent yeast will settle out after 3-5 days.  These yeast are often so ready to become a cake of trub that they need to be roused to finish fermentation.  Medium-flocculent yeast generally take 6-15 days to settle, but with enough time will settle out on their own.  Yeast strains with low flocculaiton, such as hefeweizen and witbier yeasts, don't settle much with time.  These yeasts will leave your beer looking cloudy - which is good for certain styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast will also flocculate more after fermentation as the beer temperature drops, so if you can cool your beer in a basement or fridge during secondary fermentation, then you have a reliable method for making your beer significantly more clear.  Using this method, you'll notice that after a week or two, the beer is much less cloudy, and that after the first 5-10 days, very little additional yeast drops out of suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer that looks clear can still have up to one million yeast cells per mL, so for standard-strength beers, you don't have to worry about not having enough yeast left for bottling - it's still there.  Whether or not it's healthy is another question, but generally repitching yeast for bottling is unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Other particles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most significant contributor here is hop particles.  Hop debris tends to stay in suspension a little longer than yeast, and is particularly noticeable when dry-hopping a beer.  As with yeast, giving a beer time on secondary at lowered temperatures is the best way to clear, although with beers that have massive amounts of hops, like double IPAs, cloudiness is just an expected byproduct - it might take longer to try to clear the beer than what the brewer deems best for beer flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other ingredients that you add to your beer will influence color and clarity.  Fruit tends to cloud beer, as some fruits leave pectin in the beer.  Other additives may cloud beer, depending, obviously, on their color and how readily they settle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clearing your Beer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, the best agent for making your beer less cloudy is time.  Over time, many of the suspended particles will fall out.  Lowered temperatures will help this to happen more quickly.  However, other things can be done to help make a beer more clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select malts with lower protein levels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use more flocculent yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add Irish moss or whirlfloc at the end of your boil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a fining agent like gelatin, isinglass, or polyclar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filter your beer.  This method, being the most challenging and costly, would be a last resort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T14:46:28.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3942" CreationDate="2011-04-09T15:02:08.480" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how healthy the yeast were at bottling, and the temperature that your beer has been at since you bottled, you might not see carbonation yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience, I bottled a batch of beer right before moving out of state, and during the move, I let the freshly-bottled beer get too chilly.  At 3 weeks, that beer had only a slight carbonation, but after warming the bottles to 70°F for 3 &lt;strong&gt;more&lt;/strong&gt; weeks, it came out fine.  I chose to be patient because I didn't want to go to a lot of extra work and potentially jeopardize my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you started with healthy yeast, and added the proper amount of priming sugar, and have kept your bottles in the proper temperature range for the yeast, it should take around 3 weeks to fully carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see absolutely &lt;strong&gt;zero&lt;/strong&gt; carbonation at 2.5 weeks - there's not even a hint of a hiss when you uncap a beer and rigorous pouring doesn't produce any fizz - then it's possible that your yeast have died or are otherwise unviable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should that be the case, I would recommend pouring all of the bottles back into a sanitized carboy or bucket, and repitch healthy yeast and then re-bottle.  If you added the correct amount of priming sugar at initial bottling &lt;strong&gt;do not&lt;/strong&gt; add more sugar, as it could create overcarbonated beer and bottle bombs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question is tricky since you mentioned in a previous question that you opened all your bottles.  If those bottles hissed at all when you opened them, then the problem may not be the yeast, but that you've released some of your carbonation.  Hopefully that's not the case, because then you'd need to evaluate how much more priming sugar to add.  If that had happened, though, your beer would still be mostly carbonated, which it sounds like it is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And FWIW, if you underfilled your bottles the first time, you were at no risk of bottle bombs.  The increased airspace would have been like an extra &quot;cushion&quot; that would cause undercarbonated beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is a frustrating problem to work with, but be patient - it'll be worth the effort in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T15:02:08.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2011-04-09T15:33:45.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the links. I have also found the list at homebrewtalk.com's wiki to be useful, especially this chart: &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Malts_Chart&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Malts_Chart&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the closest thing to what I'm looking for, but a true dataset (SQL, XML, or other format would be better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll keep looking and update this answer as I find more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T15:33:45.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2011-04-09T15:53:54.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what Brandon said, pH in the mash and kettle has a huge effect on beer clarity.  get the pH into the 5.4 area and your beer will be much clearer.  It isn't alwyas practical to use ingredients with lower protein levels without significantly altering a recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T15:53:54.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2011-04-09T15:56:10.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is info on cold steeping from the legendary Dr. George Fix...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Question to Dr. Fix:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On the Brews &amp;amp; Views discussion board a couple months ago, someone mentioned a talk you gave regarding cold steeping of malts like Munich. I would very much appreciate it if you would elaborate on this technique. How do you do it, what does it do for the brew, what malts are good candidates for this technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dr. Fix:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The talk was in the NCHF at Napa in October. Those folks on the left coast really know how to do a beer festival!  The cold steeping procedure was designed to maximize the extraction of  desirable melanoidins, and at the same time minimize the extraction of  undesirable ones. The former are simple compounds which yield a fine malt taste. The undesirable ones come from more complicated structures. Polymers with sulfur compounds tend to have malt/vegetable tones. Others yield   cloying tones, which to my palate have an under fermented character. The highest level melanoidins can even have burnt characteristics.  The cold steeping procedure was developed by Mary Ann Gruber of Briess. My  version goes as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;         (i) One gallon of water per 3-4 lbs. of grains to be steeped is brought to a boil and held there for 5 mins.&#xA;         (ii) The water is cooled down to ambient, and the cracked grains are added.&#xA;         (iii) This mixture is left for 12-16 hrs. at ambient temperatures,  and then added to the brew kettle for the last 15-20 mins. of the boil.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mary Ann has had good results by adding the steeped grains directly to the  fermenter without boiling, however I have not tried that variation of the             procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upside of cold steeping is that it works. The downside is that it is very inefficient both with respect to extract and color. In my setup I am using 2-3 times the malt that would normally be used. As a consequence I  have been using it for &quot;adjunct malts&quot; such as black and crystal. I also am very happy with the use of Munich malts with this process when they are used as secondary malts. &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T15:56:10.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3942" CreationDate="2011-04-09T22:58:44.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are carbonation drops that work on individual bottles. But this can be time consuming. I'd do as Brandon suggests and repitch. He's absolutely right about adding more sugar (DON'T). If you know of someone with a kegging system, there are bottling guns that work extremely well. These are pricey but you get much more consistent gas volumes in the bottle. Another way to carbonate by the bottle is to use dry ice. A small piece the size of your little fingernail should do the trick for each bottle. Just be certain to wear gloves to avoid frostbite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="225" LastEditDate="2011-04-10T18:37:41.900" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T18:37:41.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-10T04:05:18.550" Score="1" ViewCount="1045" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently brewing a english pale ale and about to transfer from primary to secondary fermentor. I want to dry hop but dont know what people think would be the best hops to use. Any ideas or recomendations people have? The current hops in the recipe is 1oz. willemete and 1oz. fuggle...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1180" LastEditorUserId="1180" LastEditDate="2011-04-10T21:38:25.017" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T21:13:50.430" Title="dry-hopping what hops to use?" Tags="|hops|dry-hopping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3971" CreationDate="2011-04-11T03:57:32.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the flavor you think would work best for your beer. Willamette is a hybrid of fuggle and will taste similar to it, a little more fruity or flowery. For english styles I generally fall back on Goldings which will give you a sweeter, more floral flavor, but it really depends on your preferences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T03:57:32.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3999" CreationDate="2011-04-11T08:16:50.323" Score="7" ViewCount="1913" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bottled my first contaminated beer, got lazy and didn't freeze/boil the watermelon I added to a wheat beer and got lacto(?) contamination and an &lt;strong&gt;amazing&lt;/strong&gt; sour watermelon beer as a result! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, now I want to know if it's time to chuck the fermenter that had the contamination out (or put biohazard stickers on it and keep it for a &lt;em&gt;deliberately&lt;/em&gt; sour beer). I ferment in plastic pails, so no great cost to replace and probably hard to really clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading around, there are quite different opinions on whether there is enough starsan or bleach in the world to restore a pail that's carried a contaminated batch; so I thought I'd ask the experts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1231" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T16:34:46.170" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T19:27:19.857" Title="Lacto contamination in plastic fermenter = new fermenter?" Tags="|contamination|disinfecting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2011-04-11T12:18:33.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try using those &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.warmzone.com/under-floor-heat.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;heating mats/ribbons&lt;/a&gt; used for tile floors and just wrap it around your fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T12:18:33.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3995" CreationDate="2011-04-11T13:24:50.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clean it with warm sanitizer.&#xA;Fill it with normal strength sanitizer and leave it over night.&#xA;It will be good to go IMO.&#xA;Clean and sanitize the lid also really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-02-17T19:11:34.507" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T19:11:34.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4001" CreationDate="2011-04-11T23:05:07.027" Score="8" ViewCount="20568" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first few batches of beer have come out quite undercarbonated.  I believe because I've been quite cautious about how far I fill my bottles up.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3942/no-carbonation-in-the-bottles/3959#3959&quot;&gt;This comment&lt;/a&gt; backs up my theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I determine the maximum level to fill my bottles?  Is it related to desired CO2 volumes or should I leave CO2 decisions up to priming sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T20:17:49.540" Title="How full can I fill my bottles?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|priming|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3995" CreationDate="2011-04-11T23:07:02.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have used plastic, glass, and stainless fermentors with bacteria and yeast without them contaminating the next batch. Just need to make sure you do a good clean and proper sanitization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, there are many caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the fermenters cleanable and sanitizable? Do they have scratches or hiding places (see valves)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you really clean and sanitize the tubes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are your being very paranoid about sanitization?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you are careful, you should not have any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS forget where I have heard this but bacteria is like yeast. We all seem to do fine switching yeast strains between brews, we should be able to do fine using (or not using) different bacteria between brews. That is the logic I use :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1215" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T16:23:10.763" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T16:23:10.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3998" CreationDate="2011-04-11T23:20:45.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fill mine up somewhere between just below the flange to overflowing, and then remove the bottling wand or beer gun (keep the wand or gun touching the bottom of the bottle for the entire fill).   I've found that this leaves pretty much the same amount of headspace as commercial breweries leave.   I do this for all sizes of bottles that I fill.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only times I have had problems with carbonation were from misreading the nomograph in &quot;How To Brew&quot;, and not getting enough sugar in the bottling bucket.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T23:20:45.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3998" CreationDate="2011-04-11T23:35:55.917" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a 12-oz bottle, I fill it all the way to the top with the bottling wand.  The amount of liquid displaced when I pull out the wand is about 2 inches from the top.  For larger 22-oz bottles, I fill it a little less, but still keep approximately 2 inches of head space from the top.  I've never had a problem with the lids blowing off or low carbonation.  Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T23:35:55.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3995" CreationDate="2011-04-11T23:41:53.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the condition of the contaminated pail?  If it's a really old pail, there might be hard to clean scratches and cracks that can harbor the infection into your next batch.  That said, I think if you are careful with washing it out multiple times and following the standard sanitization routine, it's probably safe to keep the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T16:23:35.327" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T16:23:35.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1330" CreationDate="2011-04-12T00:02:50.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a 600 sq-ft. apartment with my girlfriend and our stuff.  When not in use, I keep my 2 carboys beside the couch and against the wall in their original boxes.  They are covered with a sheet, and double as a ghetto end table.  I put all the tiny items, airlock, thermometer, hydrometer, iodophor, BLC, stoppers, into the brew pot to minimize how much space it takes. The brew pot then goes under the sink where other cleaning materials live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While brewing, I move the fermenter to the middle of our apartment, next to the TV.  I keep it away from the doors and windows to minimize fluctuations in temperature.  I would put it in our bedroom closet, but those are already packed.  I still keep it in the box to prevent light from skunking the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our stove is really weak, so it can take a long time to get to whatever temperature you're trying to reach.  I use our tea kettle to have hot water ready for adjusting any temperature we need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T00:02:50.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3998" CreationDate="2011-04-12T00:59:41.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The space in the bottle is important, but don't forget about your priming sugar amounts and bottling temps. If you find your beer is undercarbed, try to rotate the bottles, swirl them gently while they are upside down and raise the ambient temperature up. You'll see better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1104" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T00:59:41.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4090" CreationDate="2011-04-12T07:57:40.970" Score="1" ViewCount="3322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently become interested in building my own home-brew water filtration unit; during my online research on the subject, I came across active carbon (aka activated charcoal). It seems like it may be a great addition to my current ideas, although I have a few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: Where can I get active carbon that is okay for human consumption? (It's not like I will be taking it in directly, although drinking water will pass directly through it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: How can I effectively use the active carbon, and also use it efficiently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: What is the filtering lifespan of active carbon? (How long can it effectively clean water? For a given amount of carbon, and water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1240" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T14:50:37.453" Title="How to efficiently use active carbon?" Tags="|water|filtering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1516" CreationDate="2011-04-12T13:17:33.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to chime in to provide some more info to those unfamiliar with the concept.  Crash cooling is the last step before transferring the beer out of the fermenter.  The point of crash cooling is to drop &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; that is in suspension for a clearer beer.  If you wait until after crash cool to dry hop, you're negating the reason you crash cooled in the first place.  If you're serious (and a little crazy) about getting the maximum flavor and aroma out of your hops after fermentation, pick up a HopRocket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note for those that bottle:  Crash cooling is a great way to prepare for bottle conditioning with a different yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/crash-cool-how-why-where-who-91105/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Related HomeBrewTalk thread.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T13:17:33.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4276" CreationDate="2011-04-12T15:55:44.267" Score="6" ViewCount="2780" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would be the purpose in adding dry hops, then removing them prior to adding a second, even third addition, rather than simply putting all the dry hops in at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer has to do with wanting a stronger contribution from one variety of hops, please explain why that would be different from lowering or increasing hop quantity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-04-18T13:22:19.137" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T02:32:55.253" Title="What is the purpose of dry hopping in intervals (multiple additions)?" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4013" CreationDate="2011-04-12T16:17:33.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing to be gained from that practice, really.  I can't imagine why anyone would go to the hassle of doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T16:17:33.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3661" CreationDate="2011-04-12T16:20:14.743" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The FDA has recently decided that Fermcap S should be filtered before you drink your beer.  Fortunately, there's Fermcap AT which is fine to use without filtering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some info from Birko, which makes a product very much like Fermcap..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Brewers should not use silicone-containing antifoam for unfiltered&#xA;  beers. The FDA allows active silicone to be used up to 10&#xA;  parts-per-million (ppm) but stipulates that the silicone must be&#xA;  removed prior to packaging by either filtration or centrifugation. In&#xA;  the case of unfiltered beers, use a food grade, non-silicone antifoam.&#xA;  We sell a food grade, canola oil based antifoam that works well for&#xA;  this purpose and has an added benefit of being yeast-friendly at the&#xA;  same time. Look for my article on antifoams in the brewery in the&#xA;  July/August issue of The New Brewer. Please contact me directly if you&#xA;  would like to discuss this or any other matter further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dana Johnson Brewery Technical Representative BIRKO Corporation&#xA;  Henderson, Colorado www.birkocorp.com:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="1558" LastEditDate="2011-09-06T12:19:03.983" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T12:19:03.983" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4011" CreationDate="2011-04-12T18:48:12.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0017677O8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Granulated-Activated-Carbon-1-cu-ft/dp/B0017677O8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably also use the products labeled for treating ponds or fish tanks, since AFAIK it's all the same carbon - usually made from coconut shells.  For water filtering, especially if you're using a gravity-feed, look for 12x40 or 8x30 grain sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use it, I would just make a housing from 2 or 3 inch PVC pipe with a screen at the bottom - using whatever screen or wire mesh you can find around the garage, with a coffee filter between the screen and the carbon to hold the filter media in place.  Use PVC endcaps as required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Testing with chlorine strips would tell you when it's time to refill the charcoal.  The amount of water that it can filter will depend on the concentration of impurities in the water as well as the particle size of the carbon, so you'll have to do empirical testing with your setup to determine how long the carbon lasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T18:48:12.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-12T19:39:47.440" Score="4" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't had any problems with homebrews going stale, but I'm curious about what people do to minimize introducing oxygen in later steps of the brewing process.  If you have a closed brewing system, then that's obviously ideal.  But is it possible to pump an inert gas into a secondary carboy before racking?  Are there other steps or tips for reducing oxygen in the process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T19:46:13.587" Title="What are good ways to reduce oxygen after racking a beer?" Tags="|racking|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4017" CreationDate="2011-04-12T20:51:54.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a kegging setup, you can use it to pump CO2 into your secondary.  Or just skip your secondary, which is what most experts recommend these days.  No chance of O2 if you just leave it in primary.  Purge your kegs with CO2 before and after filling them, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T20:51:54.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4020" CreationDate="2011-04-13T11:50:41.393" Score="3" ViewCount="1346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been scouring the internet, trying to find some kind of list of the SMM content in various malts so I know when it would be wise to do a 90 minute boil. I can't find anything, just the definition of the off-flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know Pilsner malts are high, but that's it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any others? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1104" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T18:05:35.203" Title="Which malts have the highest SMM (precurser of DMS) content?" Tags="|all-grain|off-flavor|dms|pilsner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4019" CreationDate="2011-04-13T12:45:02.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20812384&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this study&lt;/a&gt;, the use of nitrogen fertiliser can increase SMM levels in (malting) barley across the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/dms.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This guy&lt;/a&gt; seems to have the right answer though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When using all pilsener malt or pale&#xA;  malt, it may be advisable to boil your&#xA;  wort for at least 90 minutes to reduce&#xA;  the Dimethyl Sulfide levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also notes that the DMS flavour is more detectable in the lighter styles of beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lighter beers with&#xA;  high adjunct ratios or low gravity&#xA;  beers will allow the off flavor and&#xA;  odor to be more detectable, while dark&#xA;  German beers, all-malt beers and any&#xA;  other flavorful beer will hide the&#xA;  canned corn notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T12:45:02.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4023" CreationDate="2011-04-13T13:59:19.873" Score="4" ViewCount="1103" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an all-grain or partial-mash brew, I'll go to the homebrew store and have them mill my grains for me.  But extract w/grains brews are all about how short I can make them (because I'll do them on a weeknight with a friend). That means having my steeping grains on hand, rather than making a trip to the store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard way of crushing grains without a grain mill is the old rolling pin and Ziploc method. It's annoying and messy. In this age of mechanization, is there nothing for a lazy man to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T15:00:34.467" Title="For steepers, what's the easiest way to crush specialty grains?" Tags="|crush|mill|specialty-grains|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4021" CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:00:34.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;The best solution for even, consistent mills is always the local HBS.&quot;.  I'd have to disagree with that.  All too often, I hear from people who get poor or inconsistent crushes from the LHBS due to constant readjustment of the mill there.  The absolute best way to consistently get the crush that works best for you is to own your own mill. That may not be the easiest way, though, which was the original question.  In that case, the rolling pin method, as tedious as it may be, is probably the easiest.  You can also use a food processor or blender to gently whirl the grain a few times, being careful not to overcrush.  Since we're just talking about steeping, the crush is far less critical than if you were mashing.  If you have concerns about tannin extraction due to too fine a crush, keep in mind that tannins are more tied to pH than either crush or temp.  If you keep the amount of water you use for steeping in the 1.5 qt./lb. range, your pH should be controlled and you don't need to worry about tannins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T15:00:34.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4019" CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:01:52.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, the lighter the malt the more SMM it will have.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T15:01:52.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-13T18:27:57.053" Score="4" ViewCount="641" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is already after the fact, since the batch has been consumed but...&#xA;My pale ale that I made had quite a 'yeasty' taste. It still wasn't &lt;em&gt;bad&lt;/em&gt;, though I would have preferred it to be a bit milder. What is a good course of action to take the next time around to help resolve that? More/less time in fermentation? Use secondary? More time bottle-conditioning? Would any of these affect the yeast taste at all? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1061" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T19:34:17.673" Title="Yeasty Tasting Pale Ale" Tags="|yeast|bottle-conditioning|ale|pale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2011-04-13T18:53:28.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, more time in fermentation (said without knowing how much time you gave it) and more time and cold to clear it after fermentation is complete.  Also, the strain of yeast you use can play a part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T18:53:28.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:34:17.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing more about which yeast strain you used it is hard to say if a yeasty taste would be expected, but more time in primary and secondary fermenters would likely solve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you have available space in a fridge, cold crashing in secondary for a few days to a week before bottling/kegging can help clear the beer and make a lot more of the yeasties drop out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T19:34:17.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4019" CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:40:19.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;6-row pale malts have higher concentrations of SMM than 2-row pale malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastEditorUserId="412" LastEditDate="2011-04-14T18:05:35.203" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T18:05:35.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4017" CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:46:13.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What Denny said.  CO2 is heavier than oxygen, so if you can pump some into your secondary it will push out the O2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you may be unnecessarily concerned in some ways. When you transfer to secondary the yeast gets stirred up enough that CO2 will be produced in secondary shortly after racking, and this CO2 will push out any small amounts of O2 that was introduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purging before and after kegging, as Denny already said, is a must though (the keg is closed after transfer and the O2 would be trapped).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T19:46:13.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4013" CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:55:00.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't heard of anyone actually doing this, but I imagine the rationale is that dry hopping for longer than 5 days or so can lead to &quot;stemmy&quot; or grassy flavors.  I guess if you were trying to go way overboard on the dry hopping you could get a little extra aroma without the stemmy/grassy flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, no need to do this.  Using the appropriate amount of dry hops just once should always do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T19:55:00.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3998" CreationDate="2011-04-13T20:17:49.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you aren't getting enough carbonation you probably aren't using the appropriate amount of priming sugar.  Most ingredient kits come with a standard size bag, but this isn't always the right amount to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest using a priming sugar calculator.  This one is great:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T20:17:49.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4013" CreationDate="2011-04-13T20:19:37.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/6351/doubleIPA.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vinnie Cilurzo does (did) it&lt;/a&gt;, for whatever that's worth.   From that article, it sounds as though the point is to keep a &quot;big&quot;, fresh hop aroma, while removing most of the &quot;bits&quot; before they can contribute significant off flavors/aromas.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T20:19:37.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4013" CreationDate="2011-04-13T20:27:16.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of brewers that make excellent dry-hopped beers have a limit to how many days they leave their beers on the dry hops. For example, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://destroy.net/brewing/IIPA.pdf&quot;&gt;presentation on IIPA's by home brewer Nathan Smith&lt;/a&gt; (PDF), says that Firestone Walker only uses dry hops for 5 days, and Smith suggests a maximum contact time of 7 days. And Smith summarizes the purpose of multiple small dry-hop additions as giving the beer &quot;bigger, longer-lasting aroma&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to keep in mind here is that these brewers are using conicals and can pull the hops out of the beer using the bottom valve in the conical, preventing oxidation problems. If you're not using a conical, it's going to be a bit trickier to do multiple small dry-hop additions and avoid oxidation. My approach would be to dry hop in a keg. Store the dry hops in hop bags and suspend the bags from the lid using fishing line or something similar. Fill the keg headspace with CO2, leave the hops in the beer for 5-7 days, pull the bag and then repeat the process as many times as you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it make a big difference vs. just doing one hop addition? That's for you to decide, it's your beer. Try it both ways and see what you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T20:27:16.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4039" CreationDate="2011-04-14T02:22:12.573" Score="3" ViewCount="643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I let a lager sit for 10 weeks in a secondary until it was very clear (the cold helped with clarity), and then used the yeast slurry at the bottom as a starter for another batch. I usually make a starter, but I was brewing and bottling on the same day and tried to take a shortcut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, three days later, there are no signs of fermentation (bubbling airlock) in the new batch. Is it likely that the yeast is so dormant that it's taking a while to reactivate, or should I go back to the local homebrew store in a few days and get some additional known-good yeast? The new batch has a fairly low OG (~1.045), but it still should have plenty of sugar to ferment.  What would you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1198" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T15:32:45.177" Title="Reusing yeast slurry after cold-crashing." Tags="|yeast|lager|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4037" CreationDate="2011-04-14T02:47:38.793" Score="8" ViewCount="6505" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any gardeners out there who use their spent hops in their compost? I know hops are antibacterial, which goes against the goal of getting a good population of composting bacteria, but I don't know how specific the effects are, especially when hops would be a relatively small percent of the total composting matter.  I've seen recommendations in books both ways, but am looking for a good definitive source, or at least some anecdotes. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1198" LastActivityDate="2024-02-18T20:45:19.210" Title="Hops in the compost?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1250" CreationDate="2011-04-14T02:55:19.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd skip the idea of wet milling all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience shows that adding 5% water and just temper the grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extra water will toughen the husk and mellow the endosperm much like what is done in flour milling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roll diameter is more important than water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even better yet would be to have two sets of rolls and a sifter box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1249" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T02:55:19.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4035" CreationDate="2011-04-14T03:13:24.220" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I compost mine, and they break down just as easily as most other vegetable matter that gets thrown on the pile.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm normally adding a few ounces of hop material at most to a compost pile that's full of pounds of grain and kitchen scraps and everything else.   I think any serious anti-microbial action that they possess is outweighed by the fact that they're soaked through with sugar/nutrient water and dumped on and mixed into a huge pile of bacteria and bacterial food.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're also mentioned as compostable in Rodale's Composting book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T03:13:24.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4034" CreationDate="2011-04-14T03:20:50.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;10 weeks is a long time for a yeast slurry to sit.   You may want to add some additional yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/492&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Strong:  Repitching Yeast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T03:20:50.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4034" CreationDate="2011-04-14T15:32:45.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What temp is the beer at?  it may just be slow taking off due to older yeast and low temp.  When I reuse slurry that old, I &quot;wake it up&quot; first by adding maybe a qt. of wort to it.  Since you didn't do that, you may be dealing with a low cell count and viabilty due to the age of the yeast.  I'd guess it will start up sooner rather than later, but might have an effect on beer quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T15:32:45.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1250" CreationDate="2011-04-14T15:34:42.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried both conditioning the grain and milling it dry.  Conditioning kept the dust down, but other than that I found no differences between the 2 methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T15:34:42.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4043" CreationDate="2011-04-14T15:39:56.587" Score="5" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just saw this on Wired.com and wondered what the rest of you thought of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2011/04/the-personal-brewery-is-an-all-in-one-beer-factory/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2011/04/the-personal-brewery-is-an-all-in-one-beer-factory/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some interesting things - carbonation during fermentation?, closed design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like the closed design is smart for sanitary reasons, however, I've never heard of carbonating during fermentation.  Sounds like something that's only possible in a closed system.  Is it a practice used by the pros?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T20:22:20.970" Title="Williams Warn Personal Brewery" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3956" CreationDate="2011-04-14T15:56:56.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Emergency contact information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T15:56:56.353" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-02T16:46:57.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2011-04-14T16:40:30.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commented (with this username, if you're curious) on the wired article; in short: way too expensive for what you're getting, imho.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for carbonating during fermentation, look into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Spunding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Spunding&lt;/a&gt; and spunding valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T16:40:30.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2011-04-14T17:28:23.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I've heard of some German breweries sealing off the tanks and carbonating during the end of fermentation, due to restrictions from the Reinheitsgebot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T17:28:23.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4045" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4048" CreationDate="2011-04-14T19:09:29.677" Score="3" ViewCount="1861" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the sanitizer liquid used to sterilize your equipment be used for several containers in a row? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got told that I can add my equipment to my larger fermentation vessels to sanitize all at once. But if I have two containers and let one of them soak over night in sanitizer, can I then just fill it into the second container and let it stand for a while? I would add some hot water to warm it up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the  &quot;VWP cleaner / steriliser&quot; if its matters. It's labeled &quot;contains chlorine donor&quot; but doesn't tell what ingredients it is made from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="952" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T20:45:34.030" Title="Can sanitizier liquid be reused?" Tags="|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4047" CreationDate="2011-04-14T19:31:18.370" Score="5" ViewCount="576" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a maximum time I can keep the sanitizer liquid inside the fermentation containers? Would it be OK if I fill them with it and store them for a while, like a couple of weeks? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, would it be OK for a few days. Sometimes I fill them with the sterilizer to start some brewing, but then something else comes up and I don't find time to return to it until the next weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw that the sanitizer powder tends to fall out from the water after I while and then just lies on the bottom of the container. Sometimes I stir it, to mix it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="952" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T20:11:59.713" Title="Can I store my fermentation containers filled with sanitizer liquid" Tags="|storage|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4046" CreationDate="2011-04-14T20:38:57.700" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using a powdered sanitizer, like One Step, it doesn't respond well to storage.  It's a percarbonate based sanitizer that depends on O2 to work.  If you store a mixed solution long, the O2 bubbles out making it unreliable.  If you use Iodophor, you can store it for a week or 2 until it loses its color.  It you use StarSan and mix it with distilled water, you can keep it almost indefinitely.  I've had some in a spray bottle for 2 years and it was still good.  So the answer basically comes down to depending on what sanitizer you use, how you mix it, and how you store it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-04-14T20:47:56.040" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T20:47:56.040" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4045" CreationDate="2011-04-14T20:45:34.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, IMO it's a bad idea to use any chlorine based sanitizer.  You're setting yourself up to possibly end up with chlorophenols in your beer.  In addition, it needs to be rinsed and if you don't use boiled water to rinse, you're undoing your sanitation routine.  Percarbonate based sanitizers lose their ability to produce O2 quickly, which makes them ineffective.  You shouldn't reuse these.  Iodophor sanitizers (which are no rinse) can be reused if you're careful in your use of them.  Proteins, which are present in beer, denature Iodophor and make it ineffective, you have to make sure that that the stuff you put into it is clean.  StarSan, a phosphoric acid based no rinse sanitizer, can be reused as long as the pH of the solution remains below 3. A good way to ensure that is to mix it with distilled water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T20:45:34.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4052" CreationDate="2011-04-15T03:51:51.793" Score="4" ViewCount="3869" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that all-malt simply means no adjuncts (sugar, corn, rice, ect) in your beer.  They also say that all-malt beers are prone to DMS.  They also say that dark german beers are essentially immune to DMS.  Technically, aren't all german beers all-malt, due to Reinheitsgebot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1104" LastActivityDate="2011-04-16T15:45:06.830" Title="What exactly does all-malt mean?" Tags="|all-grain|reinheitsgebot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4051" CreationDate="2011-04-15T09:53:38.703" Score="4" ViewCount="699" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most extract kits suggest simply dropping the extract in the bucket with some boiling water.  Do extract brewers need to be concerned about DMS levels or is that taken care of in the starch conversion process during &quot;extraction&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a purely DMS point-of-view, is it worth doing a partial poil when using extract?  Would a pilsner / light pale extract need to go through the 90 minute boil process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T12:48:38.803" Title="Is DMS content relevant when using extract?" Tags="|boil|extract|dms|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4050" CreationDate="2011-04-15T12:48:38.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/485&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Strong episode about DMS&lt;/a&gt; they said that pilsner extract did not need a longer boil, since the DMS would be off gassed during the process of concentrating the extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T12:48:38.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4049" CreationDate="2011-04-15T12:54:46.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your definition of all-malt is right, but it's incorrect to say that an all-malt beer is prone to DMS. DMS presence depends on the base grain used (as you asked in your &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4019/which-malts-have-the-highest-smm-precurser-of-dms-content&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt;) and how the beer was brewed -- longer boils remove DMS from your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike pilsners, dark lagers use a higher proportion of darker grains (Munich, Vienna, etc.) in the grist. These darker malts have a lower SMM content, so less DMS is created. But these beers still have a high proportion of plisner malt, so they would be boiled for 90 minutes (or more), driving off the DMS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T12:54:46.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4054" CreationDate="2011-04-15T18:55:11.417" Score="7" ViewCount="4871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that ale yeasts, so called top-fermenting yeast, floats to the top.  Does this mean that the yeast only works on the wort near the top of the fermenter?  Assuming that no oxygen or bacteria is introduced, does it make sense to stir the wort while it's fermenting to distribute the yeast and speed up the fermentation process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2022-03-28T20:31:03.983" Title="Do commercial breweries stir in their fermenters to expose more yeast to the wort?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|commercial|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4053" CreationDate="2011-04-15T19:02:07.017" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need to stir or agitate the wort during fermentation.  The process of diffusion does a fine job of keeping the sugars distributed.  Moreover, if you have ever fermented in a glass vessel you'll see that the yeast seem to do an excellent job of stirring things up themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom and top fermenting is simply a concept as to where you may find the bulk of the yeast &quot;cake&quot; during the ferment, but there is plenty of yeast distributed throughout the entire wort.  Lastly top and bottom can also be looked at from a historical concept of fermenting best at the top and bottom of the temperature range.  Even though lager yeasts will ferment fine at 60&gt;F, just not as clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T19:02:07.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4046" CreationDate="2011-04-15T20:11:59.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I usually do is to clean my carboys right after I rack the beer into the next container.  I find it's easier to scrub out the sticky bits if you clean right away.  After the cleaning, I don't sanitize, and then I store the carboy upside down with a piece of paper towel on the bottom to catch any leftover liquid.  Since I keep it closed up in storage, I can keep it free of dust for the next batch.  When I brew again, then I do a quick rinse and sanitize it before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T20:11:59.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2011-04-15T20:22:20.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Apple got into the brew equipment business, I'd imagine they would design something like this system... only it would have fewer knobs and buttons.  A cool concept and a neat system, but $4.5k buys me a lot of brewing ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at their homepage and wasn't sure how they filtered out the sediment after they started brewing.  They'd have to have some filtering stage, or else you'd get off flavors from the trub sitting on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T20:22:20.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4057" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4060" CreationDate="2011-04-16T14:43:47.613" Score="7" ViewCount="5304" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I am brewing a beer that is supposed to have an OG of 1.050. I'm doing all-grain brewing and at the end of my mash &amp;amp; sparge, if I took the gravity at that point, what should I expect? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think because I am pre-boil, the gravity at that point would be somewhere lower than the expected 1.050, but can I calculate that to make sure I am on the right track?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can figure out an expected post-mash gravity, if I do not hit it, are there adjustments I can make at that point? Boil longer? Add some extract?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="296" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:40:05.413" Title="Determining the right gravity after mash in all grain brewing" Tags="|mash|all-grain|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4057" CreationDate="2011-04-16T15:17:38.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://onebeer.net/boilcalc.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a calculator on Onebeer.&lt;/a&gt;  You'll need to know your expected preboil and postboil volume and your expected post boil gravity.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, if it's too low, you can add extract.  My preference is the lightest Dry Malt Extract I can find.   If it's too high, you can add water, but make sure it's filtered/dechlorinated, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-04-16T15:17:38.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4049" CreationDate="2011-04-16T15:45:06.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing that contributes to DMS issues in the beer is poor brewing practices.  The ingredients are not to blame; malt or otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-16T15:45:06.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4057" CreationDate="2011-04-16T15:54:39.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should expect a lower pre-boil gravity due to dilution.  The math is straightforward: gravity is a measure of the ratio of sugar to water; if you boil from, e.g. 6g to 3g, you still have the same amount of sugar, and thus the gravity changes by 6/3 or ×2.  Similarly, if you want 5g at the end of a 60 minute strong boil, you should be collecting ~6.5g out of the mash, and the pre-boil gravity will be 5/6.5 = ×0.77&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to do nothing.  Unless the OG is significantly off, enough to push the beer out of style/category (if you even care about such things), RDWHAHB¹.  One minor exception I would note is that if you're trying to balance gravity and bitterness, and you do decide to just let the &quot;cards fall where they may&quot; in terms of gravity, and it is non-trivially different, you might want to tweak your hop additions commensurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹: &quot;Relax, Don't Worry, Have a HomeBrew&quot;. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2011-04-16T17:38:39.213" LastActivityDate="2011-04-16T17:38:39.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-17T00:45:56.337" Score="6" ViewCount="982" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to bottle my first Coopers home brew and I don't have a rapid bottler. Can I pour it straight from the tap or will I have problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1255" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-08T07:39:30.337" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T07:39:30.337" Title="Bottle filling without a rapid bottler" Tags="|equipment|techniques|bottling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4061" CreationDate="2011-04-17T02:37:10.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottling wand that comes in the Cooper's kit is there to make bottling easier &amp;amp; doesn't add any special technique required for the process.  If you do pour straight from the tap, unless you're careful, you'll find it hard to fill the bottles to consistent / accurate levels, you will likely make a huge mess and you could waste precious beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend holding out an extra day &amp;amp; visiting your local homebrew store to pick one up (they're under $10 where I live) but as long as you're careful, you could get away with bottling straight out of the tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more info, have a read of &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;How To Brew&quot; - Section 1, Chapter 11&lt;/a&gt; covers priming &amp;amp; bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T02:37:10.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4061" CreationDate="2011-04-17T12:27:06.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean a tap on your fermentor/bottling bucket and not a tap like from a kegging system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem is getting too much air/oxygen into the beer.  You can fill that way, but the beer will potentially stale faster because of the oxygen pick up.  At least get a piece of tubing that will reach from the &quot;tap&quot; to the bottom of the bottle.  Fill slowly and when you pull the bottle off the tubing you should have about the right amount of head space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T12:27:06.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4064" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-17T17:32:45.057" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-04-17T17:32:45.057" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T17:32:45.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4065" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-17T17:32:45.057" Score="0" Body="Mead is a fermented beverage that uses honey as the primary source of fermentable sugars." OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-04-18T00:58:43.133" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T00:58:43.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-17T18:51:59.793" Score="4" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a kitchen-brewer doing 5 gls all-grain batches and am frustrated because the kitchen stove is lacking the last bit of power to yield a nice rolling boil. Are there any indoor-alternatives to the stove?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="716" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T13:54:21.980" Title="Indoor-alternatives to kitchen stove" Tags="|equipment|small-space|hop-utilization|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4066" CreationDate="2011-04-18T00:46:14.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the same problem on our small apartment stove, and the best trick I could come up wih was to preheat water in a separate kettle while I'm doing other prep work so I can have hot water on hand rather than try to bring 3 gallons to a boil all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T00:46:14.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4066" CreationDate="2011-04-18T00:58:35.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Electric brewing with heat sticks.  Or you can supplement your stove top with a little extra heating capacity using a heat stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start here with this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3d0g.net/brewing/heatstick&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;heat stick page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Listen to the April 29th 2010 Electric Brewing episode at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=basic-brewing-radio-2010&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Basic Brewing Radio&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T00:58:35.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4069" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-18T02:15:31.320" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-04-18T02:15:31.320" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T02:15:31.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4070" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-18T02:15:31.320" Score="0" Body="Short for &quot;Specific Gravity&quot;, which is a measurement of the density of a liquid in relation to water. " OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-04-18T12:28:36.023" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T12:28:36.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4071" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-18T02:18:44.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In brewing, the term 'fermentation' usually encompasses an entire process, starting when yeast is pitched into wort and ending when final gravity has been reached and yeast has reduced undesirable flavors to acceptable levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation more generally refers to the physiological state in which yeast gain metabolic energy in the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;absence&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of oxygen, by reducing simple sugars mainly to carbon dioxide and ethanol. Fermentation is much less efficient than &lt;em&gt;respiration&lt;/em&gt; (which occurs in the presence of oxygen) for producing cellular energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T16:13:33.363" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T16:13:33.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4072" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-18T02:18:44.423" Score="0" Body="The anaerobic process by which yeast convert sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide." OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-04-18T12:27:54.497" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T12:27:54.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4073" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-18T02:21:47.527" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-04-18T02:21:47.527" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T02:21:47.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4074" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-18T02:21:47.527" Score="0" Body="Female flower cones from the Humulus lupulus plant. Used for their flavor, aroma, and bittering qualities. Hops may also contribute a preservative/anti-microbial properties to beer." OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T16:13:50.477" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T16:13:50.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4075" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-18T02:30:04.277" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-04-18T02:30:04.277" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T02:30:04.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4076" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-18T02:30:04.277" Score="0" Body="We don't need no stinking badges." OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-04-18T12:28:39.473" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T12:28:39.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4077" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-18T13:17:52.680" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-04-18T13:17:52.680" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T13:17:52.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4078" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-18T13:17:52.680" Score="0" Body="Abbreviation:  Alcohol By Volume.  The percentage of alcohol in a given volume of liquid. " OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-04-18T13:51:52.177" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T13:51:52.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4079" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-18T13:25:06.793" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-04-18T13:25:06.793" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T13:25:06.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4080" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-18T13:25:06.793" Score="0" Body="A mixture of water and crushed grains (usually malted) in which enzymes convert complex carbohydrates into simpler sugars that can be utilized by yeast during fermentation." OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T16:13:18.387" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T16:13:18.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4459" CreationDate="2011-04-18T13:27:18.243" Score="11" ViewCount="1561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm double dry hopping my Rye India Pale Ale, doing half with simply double the dry hops, and half one addition, remove, adding the other half to see if anyone within drinking distance can distinguish &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4013/what-is-the-purpose-of-dry-hopping-in-intervals-multiple-additions&quot;&gt;the difference&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once this beer is bottled and carbonated, I'll be attempting to drink it &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/61/should-hoppy-beers-be-aged&quot;&gt;more quickly&lt;/a&gt; than my less hoppy creations to be certain, but if getting a third refrigerator for beer storage would help preserve hop aroma, then I need one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really looking for either an answer from experience or strong theory, as I already suspect that in general keeping things colder would keep them fresher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T14:10:41.150" Title="Does keeping a beer cold significantly preserve fresh hop aroma?" Tags="|hops|cold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4066" CreationDate="2011-04-18T13:54:21.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I did in my apartment was to get a griddle that would cover 2 burners.  Put both burners on high, with the griddle on top.  Put the brew kettle on the middle of the griddle.  You get somewhere around 1.5 the BTUs of 1 burner (some is lost to waste heat, unless you rig up a proper way to hold that heat in, which I never really investigated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T13:54:21.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4084" CreationDate="2011-04-18T15:19:24.370" Score="6" ViewCount="1550" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be a term many are familiar with, but how exactly do you cause the beer to foam prior to capping?  I use a spring-loaded filler rod, which always results in about an inch of head space, with very little if any bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T23:38:08.900" Title="How exactly do you &quot;cap on foam&quot;?" Tags="|bottles|capping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4083" CreationDate="2011-04-18T15:26:27.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time capping on foam is a technique used when filling bottles off of kegs.  There is always some foaming that happens during the fill off the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously it can't be done if you are using flat beer with priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you are using some sort of filling method with carbed-up beer that results in not foam you can induce the foam with a quick and sharp tap on the neck of the bottle with a metal spoon.  It has worked for me in the past.  Its similar to &quot;knocking&quot; the opening of your buddies bottle of beer with the bottom of your bottle of beer.  The beer foams all over the place and you have to pound it down.  Its a dumb college thing we used to do to each other if someone wasn't paying attention to the conversation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T15:26:27.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1715" CreationDate="2011-04-18T17:35:32.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I froze a keg of Hefeweizen totally stiff. I had accidentally pulled the temp control probe out of the deep freezer that the kegs were in. The freezer ran at its &quot;normal&quot; freezing temps for maybe 2 days before I noticed it, so the keg was TOTALLY frozen as far as I could tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good news: &lt;strong&gt;the beer was still delicious!&lt;/strong&gt; I had decent head on the hefe, and its flavor and body were identical to the beer before it was frozen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T17:35:32.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2011-04-18T17:43:32.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best homebrew English IPA I've had was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marris Otter base for 1.060&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(substitute Pale malt &amp;amp; a little Biscuit if you dont have MO)&lt;/em&gt;   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/2 pound British Medium Crsytal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All Fuggles &lt;em&gt;(60, 15, 5, flameout - not sure the amounts but it was 25-35&#xA;IBU and fairly hoppy)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S-04 Dry Yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T17:43:32.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1715" CreationDate="2011-04-18T20:11:56.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I froze a saison in the primary fermenter while cold crashing. Defrosted on the counter to bottle. Very very tasty beer. That was pre-carbonation, but if you're force carbing, it really should not make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T20:11:56.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2395" CreationDate="2011-04-19T19:35:08.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll go out on a limb and say that there's not a prayer you could tell the difference between 2 similar &lt;em&gt;types&lt;/em&gt; of whiskey, like Jimb Beam vs Jack Daniels, or 12 vs 18 year anything. There's just too little actual whiskey in the 5 gal of beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you might be able to distinguish say, and American Sour mash bourbon from a peaty Scotch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T19:35:08.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3867" CreationDate="2011-04-19T20:11:22.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Haven't used them myself, but since no one else is answering, I'll say that I've heard good things about Bravo, along these lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bitters well, a bit like Simcoe, but&#xA;cleaner. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A blend of&#xA;earthy/fruity/spice for aroma, sort&#xA;of like Warrior. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less Citrus in aroma&#xA;and taste than, say, Centennial.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One person said it made a great single-hop beer, and one said it was a little weak as a single-hop, and needed to be blended with other hops for character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T20:11:22.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4011" CreationDate="2011-04-19T20:35:53.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Activated carbon is basically charcoal that has been heated to a high temperature without igniting it. Best way to make it is to get hardwood (maple, oak - the best, hickory) and seal the wood in foil, with as little trapped air as possible (you don't want to have the wood start burning). Bake the wood at 500F or heat in a fire until there is no more smoke coming out. When you open the packet, you should see lumps of black charcoal. When you get ready to activate the charcoal for water filtering, reheat the charcoal at 475F to release absorbed air. You can pack it into a tube as Brandon describes, but you will want a finer mesh screen than most window screen material. Most brew suppliers have brass filtering screens that are round and fit nicely into the pipe. BTW - be certain to clean the PVC or buy food grade PVC to start with (not all PVC pipe is rated for drinking water). The tygon (clear) tubing that most brew suppliers sell works great as an alternative to PVC. Just get the largest bore that they sell, pack the charcoal into the tubing with sterile cotton balls to keep the charcoal from leaving the tubing. We use this in the lab and on work trips to filter pre-sterilized water. The tubing is easy to transport, hard woods can be found all over the world, and charcoal is easy to make. One quick and dirty way to test the filtering is to put the filtered water to a clear glass, turn out the lights and shine a flashlight through it. Suspended particles will cause what is know as Raleigh scattering and you'll see colors appear as the light shines through as the particle concentration increases.&#xA;But honestly, a Brita or Pur filtering system is usually cheaper and easier to use in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T20:35:53.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2011-04-20T15:28:07.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;MGD are a bloody chore to get the label off of.  Soaking doesn't do it, you need to soak, then peel off what you can, then use a scouring pad to remove the excess.  Not worth the effort!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. this is coming from experience with cases purchased in Ontario (Canada)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1268" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T15:28:07.770" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-20T15:28:07.770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4093" CreationDate="2011-04-20T23:03:53.223" Score="5" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Biere De Garde recipes seem to generally recommend a period of 4 to 6 weeks of cold storage, essentially lagering.   My brewing experience consists solely of fermenting ales, so this is somewhat foreign to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one mention in &quot;Farmhouse Ales&quot; (p. 46) of &quot;...garding on the lees,&quot; but every other mention of garding does not mention the lees or yeast, so I'm a little unclear on whether or not it's a good idea to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I rack to secondary and chill that, or should I just put the whole primary fermentor into the refrigerator for the time recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;To clarify: I'm actually trying to find out whether or not to store the beer on the primary yeast cake during the initial cold storage period (pre carbonation).   Will the yeast autolyse at refrigerator temperatures (32-38F)?   If so, are autolysis flavors appropriate for a BDG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-04-21T16:01:17.807" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T16:01:17.807" Title="How to garde a Biere De Garde?" Tags="|beer|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4092" CreationDate="2011-04-21T00:14:52.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 'Brewing Classic Styles', Jamil recommends carbonating then aging for a minimum of 6 months. So if you're bottle conditioning, I'd bottle it and then set the bottles in a cool, dark place until you're ready to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're kegging, I'd force carbonate the beer and then set that keg aside somewhere cool with a steady temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T00:14:52.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4608" CreationDate="2011-04-21T02:13:15.633" Score="6" ViewCount="2238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in hearing about people's experience brewing a heather ale.. from what I understand this was the predominant flavoring of beers before hops and it just seems like an interesting part of brewing to explore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not found a commercial example of this to date.. but I'm interested in trying this myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any tips / recipes / stories that you can share about heather ale brewing? Is it worth trying a batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="296" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T13:55:27.393" Title="Any suggestions / stories on heather ale brewing?" Tags="|ale|experiments|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4100" CreationDate="2011-04-21T12:25:40.313" Score="3" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all know letting beer sit in the light for some time without any shield is a bad idea due to the flavor and aroma that are produced, but are there any other effects?   Is a skunked beer more hospitable to microbes than a non-skunked beer?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T04:40:06.427" Title="Does skunking alter the preservative capabilities of hops?" Tags="|beer|skunk|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4096" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-21T12:31:19.000" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-04-21T12:31:19.000" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T12:31:19.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4097" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-21T12:31:19.000" Score="0" Body="An off-flavor produced by the reaction of isomerized hop alpha acids in beer with light." OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-04-21T12:44:44.960" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T12:44:44.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4098" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-21T12:32:59.063" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-04-21T12:32:59.063" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T12:32:59.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4099" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-21T12:32:59.063" Score="0" Body="A fermented beverage where the majority of the fermentable sugars are derived from malted grains via mashing." OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T01:18:31.707" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T01:18:31.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4095" CreationDate="2011-04-21T12:48:08.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect no.  Aged hops, with very low alpha potential, are used in lambic brewing specifically for their preservative qualities not their bittering properties.  Therefore, if the low alpha isn't important it doesn't matter if they are skunked or not to be preservative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-04-21T15:29:32.647" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T15:29:32.647" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4094" CreationDate="2011-04-21T13:27:13.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not done this, but I know that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2011/03/heather-ale-tasting.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Mad Fermentationist has&lt;/a&gt;. In his &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2011/02/tart-heather-gruit-recipe.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;most recent recipe&lt;/a&gt;, he makes a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2011/03/adding-flowers-to-gruit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tea with the heather flowers&lt;/a&gt;, which he blended into the finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just steeping the flowers won't give you the bitterness you would get from boiling the heather with the wort, though. He added more bitterness to the beer through lactobacillus and oak aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably play around with a mix of steeping and boiling the heather, just like you do with hops. Boiling will extract bitterness, but drive off aromatics. Steeping will give you aromatics but no bitterness. This looks to be how &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamsbrosbrew.com/historicales.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scottish breweries like Williams do it&lt;/a&gt;, they boil some and then run hot wort through something like a hopback (heatherback?) before chilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like an fun experiment to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T13:27:13.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-21T16:04:39.617" Score="4" ViewCount="16380" Body="&lt;p&gt;We brewed a maibock (from an extract kit) and when we checked our OG it was significantly lower than it should have been. I mean like, really, really low. We decided to attribute this to the wort not being mixed in good enough so we shook it up and took another reading. Still low. We decided to pitch the yeast anyway and then put it in the fridge. Well, after a month or two it's definitely not good beer based on the hoppy flavors and lack of activity. We added some nutrient and the yeasts woke up for a little bit but died off again shortly after. The evidence points to that we didn't get enough sugars in there somehow. We followed the instructions but something must have went wrong. I can get some more details later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything we can do to salvage the batch? Why was our gravity so low?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/recipe-kits/extract-kits/extract-lager-kits/maibock-extract-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Maibock Extract Kit w/ Specialty Grains&lt;/a&gt; purchased from the Milwaukee location (we haven't had issues with any of their other kits)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original gravity measured about a 1.035 after mixing it several times. It did seem a little watery (not fully dissolved) but I'm not sure why this would have been. Since pitching the gravity did lower a little bit but stopped decreasing early on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temp has been around 42-44F since the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After checking the gravity several weeks later, it is still at 1.030 and hasn't really moved in a couple weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2011-04-21T19:56:33.133" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T18:34:31.780" Title="What to do when gravity comes out too low?" Tags="|extract|lager|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4102" CreationDate="2011-04-21T16:58:19.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely scenarios for lower than expected original gravity are volume and sugars left in the kettle.  If you had grater than 5 gallons in your fermenter you have in effect watered the beer down decreasing the sugar concentration.  Also whatever liquid that was left in the boil kettle or was absorbed by the hops contained sugar and if you added water to reach your target volume this will decrease the overall sugar in the wort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stratification of the wort can also give you a lower OG reading since the heavy sugars tend to be at the bottom, especially when you top off with water.  You did say that you shook the carboy but you may not have gotten it fully mixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To minimize these factors and to hit your target OG you can use a hop screen to filter out the hops and to collect as much wort as possible from the boil or use a nylon hop bag while boiling.  You should also mark the 5 gallon mark on you carboys to ensure that you are not exceeding the total volume.  If your system is consistently short due to these factors you can always use some DME to increase the sugar content before you pitch your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as salvaging the batch there is not much you can do at this point.  You can try brewing another batch with a higher OG and less bitterness and blending the two.  I wouldn't recommend doing this though because you may end up with two batches that are not very drinkable and the blending results may vary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T16:58:19.773" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4102" CreationDate="2011-04-21T17:30:25.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In you comment to Northern Brewer Chris, you mention refractometer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your refractometer was wet that can dilute your sample significantly.&#xA;Also you should check the refractometer for calibration.  Does it read zero brix with water?&#xA;Its very easy for some models to become out of calibration.  Furthermore, you need to make sure you deal with temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, and I don't mean to be an ass, with the refractometer you need to multiply by ~4 to convert brix/plato to gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 4/22/11&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You have done something really wrong if it went from 1035 to 1030.. I think you should get a new hydrometer or borrow one and check the gravity.  There is no reason for your gravity to be off with an extract kit.  I fear its your measuring equipment still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-04-22T11:35:10.893" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T11:35:10.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4105" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-21T17:57:29.483" Score="2" ViewCount="3386" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between these measurements and is one better than the other for any particular use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which measurement scale do you use, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T14:39:34.860" Title="Degrees Plato vs Specific Gravity" Tags="|specific-gravity|measurements|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4105" CreationDate="2011-04-21T18:39:00.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specific gravity AND degrees Plato or degrees Brix is a measurement of density; based upon the amount of dissolved solids in a solvent.  In the case of wort we are talking about sugars in water.  Sugar being the main component, but other solids have dissolved in the water too, effectively increasing density, but to a much lesser extent than the sugars contribution.  This is important because it does relate to total attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydrometers often have a multiple scales on them where you can read SG OR Plato on the same hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refractometers tend to be mostly in Brix/Plato scales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither one is really any better than the other.  Its just a convention of preference depending on the equipment you use to measure the density of your wort/beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T18:39:00.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4094" CreationDate="2011-04-21T20:02:42.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A museum near my house hosts a brewing seminar series over the winter months called Ale Through the Ages. The last beer brewed this season was a Heather Ale, you can read about some of the history and the recipe we brewed here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://distantmirror.wordpress.com/2011/03/24/brewing-a-5000-year-old-scottish-ale/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://distantmirror.wordpress.com/2011/03/24/brewing-a-5000-year-old-scottish-ale/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people brought some Fraoch ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/12142/245&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/12142/245&lt;/a&gt; ) to the session and it was pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really enjoyed this beer and I'm thinking of brewing a heather ale of my own soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T20:02:42.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4110" CreationDate="2011-04-21T20:42:00.970" Score="2" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are about to undergo a 55 gallon brew as a club, to be added to an oak barrel to be a solera.  Is autolysis enough of a concern to primary ferment in glass and rack into the barrel?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a secondary question, how and when do you remove yeast sediment from the barrel when you're continually (periodically) adding new wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T23:55:30.243" Title="Should we primary ferment in carboys prior to transfer into an oak barrel for a solera?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|autolysis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4108" CreationDate="2011-04-21T20:52:52.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removing the yeast from the barrel is exactly why I think primary ferment should be done in a carboy.  I think I remember reading or hearing the Russian River does it that way.  Ferment in stainless, then transfer to barrels with bugs at the right time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T20:52:52.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4108" CreationDate="2011-04-21T23:55:30.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That may depend on what you're brewing, but I'd imagine that for most non-sour styles that you'll want to get the primary ferment over and done with before you rack to the barrel.   I believe that some of the souring wild yeast/bacteria will consume the compounds that are released by autolysis.    That being said, we got the fermentation of our barrel brew finished (or close to it) before racking to the sour barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T23:55:30.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4112" CreationDate="2011-04-22T09:31:55.667" Score="3" ViewCount="1510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a batch that's been in primary for about a week &amp;amp; I've hit my desired FG.  While taking the gravity measurement, there's a lot of trub from hop pellets floating around (despite using a tap well above the base of the bucket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a bit of research and found a few techniques for reducing the transfer of trub to bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold clarification&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secondary fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Racking on to something like gelatine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've currently got no secondary / racking equipment but do have a temperature controlled setup.  If it's worth the investment, I'm willing to buy some kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the most effective approach for keeping the gunk out of my bottled beer &amp;amp; why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T11:40:46.160" Title="Avoiding trub in bottles post primary fermentation" Tags="|clarity|trub|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4111" CreationDate="2011-04-22T11:40:46.160" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let it sit for another week in a cooler place than your original primary.  A fridge is nice, but not everyone has that kind of space.&#xA;Even with the cold conditioning to help clarification, you do need a racking cane set up.&#xA;I've never had much luck using the post at the base of a bucket from a primary ferment.  My trub is always up to the level of the port inside. I'd rack from the top down and not attempt to drain from the port on the side of the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your racking cane and hold it 6 inches off the bottom as you rack to a bottling bucket.&#xA;Then as you can see the beer get closer to the trub slowly lower the racking cane with the level of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have the one bucket there isn't much you can do now.  Just go slow and hope for the best.  You need to have a seperate bottling bucket set up from the primary if you want less &quot;stuff&quot; in the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T11:40:46.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4105" CreationDate="2011-04-22T14:39:34.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use both because my refractometer reads Brix (plato), but I &quot;grew up&quot; on SG and I often take my FG with a hydrometer, so I'm used to SG. There is also a good rule of thumb for determining alcohol content with SG. Drop the 1 and move the decimal place to the second to last place and that will approximate ABV. In other words, if you brew a 1.067 beer and get average attenuation, you will have approximately a 6.7% ABV beer. To do the same thing with brix you multiply by .4, but that is less accurate and harder to do in your head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technical difference between the two is that Brix and Plato are a measure of the percentage of the solution that is sugar. So 11 degrees brix is a solution of 11% sugar compared to the weight of the water. Specific gravity is a measure of the density of the solution divided by the density of water. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relative_density&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for a more detailed explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T14:39:34.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4011" CreationDate="2011-04-22T14:50:37.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a pretty simple filter apparatus using a universal refrigerator filter I found at Lowes. It has 1/4&quot; compression fittings, so I just got the proper hose and adapters to convert to 3/4&quot; compression (garden hose) which I then have a faucet to garden hose adapter, and I just hook it to my faucet and run it into my kettle. cost about $35 total. A lot easier than messing with $115 worth of granulated carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T14:50:37.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-25T16:31:02.610" Score="6" ViewCount="11484" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've run out of gas; how can i get the beer out of the keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1285" LastEditorUserId="981" LastEditDate="2011-05-04T02:19:18.227" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T17:42:03.013" Title="How can I get beer out of a keg without CO2?" Tags="|beer|gas|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3578" CreationDate="2011-04-25T17:24:12.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that there will be much handling of your bottle going on at the competition. This handling will most definitely end up stirring up sediment in your beer. Chilling for a long time will certainly not hurt, especially if the sediment compacts enough to not be easily stirred up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good judges should look past that, however, and you can take any comments on yeasty flavor with a grain of salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also ensure you remove as much trub as possible when racking to secondary (if you use a secondary) or bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some more tips, check out a recent BrewStrong all about entering beers in competition: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/736&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/736&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1286" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T17:24:12.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4115" CreationDate="2011-04-25T17:52:34.900" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put a cobra picnic tap and tubing on a grey gas IN connector and attach it to the gas post.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Attach a longer open ended piece of tubing to the beverage out post.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lay it on its side with a 2x4 block under the end of it.  Lay the keg so that the IN post is down at 6 O'clock and the beverage out post is at 12 O'clock.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now keep the open ended running above the keg so beer doesn't run out of it.  Then you can drain the keg as if it was a  cask via gravity.  Be careful about hooking up that tubing to the beverage out end.  If the keg is charged/pressurized beer will come screaming out of it, so be sure the keg is laying on its side first, and have something to catch what beer might come out initially... I'd suggest a bucket, large glass, or your mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T17:52:34.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4119" CreationDate="2011-04-25T17:53:32.027" Score="3" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have brewed a number of ales, but recently tried our hand at a pilsner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 8 days of fermenting at around 52 degrees F, we brought the pilsner up for a 2-day diacetyl rest at around 68 degrees.  At this point we proved our inexperience by moving the carboy back into the cooler to crash without racking over.  Unsurprisingly, we discovered off flavors, most notably strong diacetyl, when we were preparing to rack over into kegs to serve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the impact of bringing the carboys up for a second d-rest at this stage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the yeast have enough left in them to dispose of the diacetyl?&#xA;Are we inviting autolysis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions to salvage the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are trying to avoid repitching yeast, but if that's the only way, we're open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another technique we've read about is bubbling CO2 through the beer and purging the gas repeatedly.&#xA;Has anyone tried this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T20:48:46.757" Title="What is the impact of a second d-rest after 3 weeks of lagering?" Tags="|lager|conditioning|lagering|diacetyl-rest|autolysis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4118" CreationDate="2011-04-25T19:20:01.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditional German brewers would use a krausen from an actively fermenting batch to carbonate and this would also reabsorb the diacetyl.  You can do the same thing by priming and pitching a pack of yeast and the secondary fermentation should do the trick.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A diacetyl rest at this point will not effective since there is very little active yeast in the beer at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not heard that bubbling CO2 through the beer will remove diacetyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="687" LastEditDate="2011-04-25T20:00:33.587" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T20:00:33.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4118" CreationDate="2011-04-25T20:37:25.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure there isn't another issue here as to why you're getting off flavors?  I've lagered in my primary for 3 weeks before without experiencing any diacetyl.  If anything I would think letting your brew rest on the yeast cake would help clear out even more diacetyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, autolysis takes at least a month to occur, even longer at lagering temperatures, so I doubt that would be an issue.  Even if it was, I think the flavors it produces are totally different (rubbery band-aid as opposed to butterscotchy diacetyl).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter10-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;John Palmer stated&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I should mention that by brewing with&#xA;  healthy yeast in a well-prepared wort,&#xA;  many experienced brewers, myself&#xA;  included, have been able to leave a&#xA;  beer in the primary fermenter for&#xA;  several months without any evidence of&#xA;  autolysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for activating your yeast again, you could rack your beer, then make a starter from the yeast cake to re-pitch it to your batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2011-04-25T20:48:46.757" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T20:48:46.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4115" CreationDate="2011-04-25T21:41:29.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This probably isn't too helpful for your current problem, but they have small CO2 hand-chargers for corny kegs that use small CO2 vials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/compact-co2-injector-only.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is one option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use one with a small picnic tap to bring a keg places without lugging the entire gas cylinder and regulator with me. You just have to be careful to monitor the pressure in the keg by feel. It also comes in handy if I run out of gas and haven't had time to get it refilled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1287" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T21:41:29.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-04-27T11:57:38.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a &quot;Belgian&quot; IPA where I used a combination of US Saaz, US Fuggles, and Mt. Hood, which managed to create a very nice citrusy flavor (Orange juice, actually).   So don't forget that combinations of hops can produce new, unexpected flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-04-27T11:57:38.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-04-27T15:31:56.667" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a pretty useful chart of different types of hops and the flavors they tend to impart on beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://hopschart.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hops - Bitterness, Flavors &amp;amp; Aromas&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things change depending on year and growing location, as well as hop style, but this is a good general idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1287" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-04-09T20:36:08.883" LastActivityDate="2017-04-09T20:36:08.883" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3335" CreationDate="2011-04-27T22:07:38.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winexpert.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Wine Experts&quot;&gt;Wine Experts&lt;/a&gt; kits (premium and ultra premium). They are drinkable in less than 12 months and are 4 gallon kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-04-27T22:07:38.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4128" CreationDate="2011-04-28T03:24:16.820" Score="4" ViewCount="718" Body="&lt;p&gt;This weekend's brew is going to be a Pilsner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the set-up to lager at the moment, so I aim to ferment with US-05 at around 16C (60F or so). I did this a while ago and came out with a nice clean tasting beer, but not the dry finish I associate with Pilsner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen various bits of advice to add simple sugar to get a drier finish. Would that work in this case? If so, how much would you suggest (recipe is all grain: ~90% Pilsner, 9% Munich and 1% CaraPils)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1231" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T18:22:46.833" Title="Will simple Sugar make my &quot;pseudo-lager&quot; finish drier?" Tags="|sugar|recipe-formulation|pilsner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4126" CreationDate="2011-04-28T18:04:38.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding simple sugars will help your yeast to achieve higher attenuation, with greater effect if you add the sugar towards the end or after primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, having said that, I have doubts that extra sugar will mimic lager characteristics.  You're trying to get the dry, crisp flavors of a lager, but a really low FG is a different kind of dryness, and the mouthfeel will be thin and the beer will lack in body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might try adding a small amount (2-4%) of corn sugar.  While corn is out of place in a Pils, it might nudge the flavor towards what you're trying to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also pay a lot of attention to your water - any minerals in the water will add to the aftertaste, so soft water is best for getting the dry finish you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T18:04:38.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4126" CreationDate="2011-04-28T18:22:46.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you sub some sugar for malt (not add it!) the beer will finish drier to some degree.  It might or might not make it more lager like.  Corn sugar will not add corn (or any other flavor).  Soft water is not necessarily what you want for a pils...it depends on the style of pils.  But you certainly don't want a really heavy mineral load, either.  You can leave out the carapils in your recipe if you want it crisper, too.  The real key to a psuedo lager, though, is the same as to a real lager....ferment it as cool as possible and cold condition it for a couple months once it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T18:22:46.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="909" CreationDate="2011-04-28T18:26:11.073" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The current thinking among homebrew &quot;experts&quot; such as John Palmer and Jamil Zainasheff, as well as Wyeast and White Labs, is not to use secondary at all unless you're doing a true secondary fermentation by adding fruit or something like that.  Just leave the beer in primary for 3-4 weeks, then package.  That's the ultimate solution about what to use for a secondary!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T18:26:11.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-29T01:17:16.567" Score="16" ViewCount="1716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if it's possible to make a beer worthy of entering a competition that stands a chance of doing well.  I'm still pretty new to brewing but wanted to know if I need to make the jump to all-grain before making a beer that's competition worthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="920" LastEditorUserId="920" LastEditDate="2011-04-29T02:49:59.607" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T20:02:34.273" Title="Is it possible to make a beer worthy of a competition with malt extract?" Tags="|extract|competition|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4130" CreationDate="2011-04-29T13:00:06.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, you can make a great tasting beer with malt extract alone... but you will be unable to make that beer stand out in competition, as it will lack originality and complexity.  If you don't want to make the jump to all-grain just yet, you could try a couple partial mash batches.  This will give you greater control over the final product, without going all out on all grain equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="803" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T13:00:06.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4130" CreationDate="2011-04-29T14:45:34.250" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have judged in comps where an extract beer has taken best of show.  It's a challenge, but there are certain styles that can be made well with extract and if you choose one of those and exercise great technique, you can definitely make an award winning beer with extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T14:45:34.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4134" CreationDate="2011-04-29T14:46:28.430" Score="5" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made cranberry wine about 10 weeks ago and did not use pectic enzyme. Is it to late to add it or must it be put in at the start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T15:37:14.670" Title="When is pectic enzyme effective?" Tags="|wine|fruit|pectic-enzyme|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4133" CreationDate="2011-04-29T15:37:14.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pectic enzyme is most effective when added before fermentation starts.  Once there are ethanols present the pectic enzyme will still work but will take longer to be effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T15:37:14.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4130" CreationDate="2011-04-29T20:02:34.273" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of what makes a great beer great is fermentation, not necessarily where the wort came from.  Todays extracts are very high quality.  And many extracts are becoming available to make wort you could only get as an all grainer.  For example 100% Munich or Pilsner or English extracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Focus on a great fermentation and you will make great beer.  Then if you move to all grain someday with a mastery of fermentation...man you'll be making unbelievable beer then!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T20:02:34.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="909" CreationDate="2011-04-29T20:04:46.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't put 1 gallon of finished beer in a 6 gallon carboy for sure, but 5 gallons in 6 or 6.5... probably not a big deal.  And I never had a problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record I don't secondary that often anymore anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T20:04:46.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-30T07:57:13.737" Score="6" ViewCount="28142" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I want to convert my specific gravity reading from one temperature to an equivalent specific gravity at 60F how do I do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you give me a correction factor for this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1301" LastEditorUserId="916" LastEditDate="2011-05-01T12:19:53.320" LastActivityDate="2018-01-30T20:36:46.037" Title="Temperature correction for specific gravity" Tags="|temperature|calculations|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4137" CreationDate="2011-04-30T14:13:33.780" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All temperatures are in expressed in degrees F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;correction = 1.313454 - 0.132674*F + 0.002057793*F*F - 0.000002627634*F*F*F&#xA;SG_corrected = SG + (correction * 0.001)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.primetab.com/formulas.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.primetab.com/formulas.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;agrees with &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewery.org/library/HydromCorr0992.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brewery.org/library/HydromCorr0992.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-04-30T14:13:33.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4137" CreationDate="2011-04-30T17:03:00.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also use a correction table like the one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/water-temperature-specific-gravity-d_1179.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HERE&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just add or subtract the difference from 1.000 at 60 with the temp you are at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate quoting John Palmer, but he also has a table in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixA.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Appendix A&lt;/a&gt; of Hot to brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-04-30T17:03:00.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4146" CreationDate="2011-05-01T07:11:00.323" Score="3" ViewCount="10002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find a local supplier that stocks a racking cane or siphon in my area so I'd like to have a go at making my own.  I could find an online supplier but most US stores won't ship to AU &amp;amp; I want to use it in a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can just siphon with tubing but I'd like to use a cane with that rubber nozzle that reduces the muck that comes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I make my own racking cane?  What's involved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T13:05:38.163" Title="DIY Racking cane / Auto-siphon" Tags="|equipment|racking|siphon|diy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2011-05-01T11:24:46.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I user BrewersHub - &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewershub.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brewershub.com&lt;/a&gt;.  It's free, easy to use, and has a ton of calculators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="765" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T11:24:46.213" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4137" CreationDate="2011-05-01T21:33:56.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;jsled's answer is for when you are using a hydrometer calibrated to 59 degrees F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formula to correct a reading for any hydrometer calibration temperature is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;&#xA;cg = corrected gravity&lt;br&gt;&#xA;mg = measured gravity&lt;br&gt;&#xA;tr = temperature at time of reading&lt;br&gt;&#xA;tc = calibration temperature of hydrometer  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cg = mg * ((1.00130346 - 0.000134722124 * tr + 0.00000204052596 * tr&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; - 0.00000000232820948 * tr&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;) / (1.00130346 - 0.000134722124 * tc + 0.00000204052596 * tc&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; - 0.00000000232820948 * tc&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;))&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastEditorUserId="302" LastEditDate="2011-05-02T20:13:13.277" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T20:13:13.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2775" CreationDate="2011-05-02T00:50:17.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As brewchez suggests, there are a number of &quot;wine cellars&quot; on the market that are essentially mini-fridges that can run at cellar temp.  Another option, if you have the room, is to use a Johnson Controls thermostat with a full-size refrigerator as brewers often do for control of fermentation temperature. (here is one example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/johnson-digital-temperature-controller.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/johnson-digital-temperature-controller.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T00:50:17.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4140" CreationDate="2011-05-02T01:04:01.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you siphon with &quot;just tubing&quot; as you suggest.  You can reduce the uptake of trub by adding a filter to the end of your tube.  Muslin bags and panty hose both work great.  Just be sure to sanitize them by soaking.  You can also reduce uptake by simply keeping the end of your siphon above the trub for the majority of the racking time.  If you do decide to add a filter, know that it will reduce the rate of flow considerably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, I would consider ordering an auto-siphon online for future use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T01:04:01.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4148" CreationDate="2011-05-02T12:43:27.950" Score="3" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Belgian Dubbel bottle conditioning, the recipe for which came from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/bcs/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewing Classic Styles&lt;/a&gt;.  For this recipe, Jamil says to carbonate the beer, then lager for one month at 45-50F.  I have the ability to do this in my ferm chest, but doing so would mean I can't ferment anything else for that month.  On the other hand, I could put the carbonated bottles into the fridge at 36F for a month before calling them ready to drink.  What is the difference between lagering the conditioned beer at 36F versus 45-50F?  By the time it starts its cold conditioning phase, it will have spent three weeks in the primary, one week in secondary, and four-to-five weeks in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast used was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WLP500&lt;/a&gt;.  Will this ale yeast clean the beer at 45-50F better than it would at 36F?  Is it even active at 45F?  Part of me wants to say he suggest those temps because they're convenient for those who keg: force carbonate, then place the keg in the kegerator, which is typically at 45-50F for serving, and leave it for a month before tapping.  Since I bottle, my serving chamber (the beer fridge), which sits at 36F, is the most convenient place to keep the beer.  If I lager it at 36F, will I be missing the point of lagering at 45-50F?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T03:46:53.873" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T03:46:53.873" Title="Any difference between lagering dubbel at 36F versus 45-50F?" Tags="|beer|temperature|conditioning|lagering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4140" CreationDate="2011-05-02T13:05:38.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To best mimic the function of a racking-cane tip, I would crimp or plug the bottom of the tube and punch two opposing holes about 1/2 inch up the side of it so the liquid being siphoned it is above the trub.  Then attach something rigid (like a strait section of plastic coat hanger) to the tube to stiffen it (after sanitizing well of course).  This way you would have a rigid tube that pulls in wort above the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ndcjl.png&quot; alt=&quot;DIY Racking Cane&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T13:05:38.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4145" CreationDate="2011-05-02T17:48:48.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the point you're speaking of, there should be little enough fermentables left to make much difference to the yeast.  Either temp will work equally well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T17:48:48.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4145" CreationDate="2011-05-02T17:49:05.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Above around 40°F, the yeast will still be somewhat active, and will continue to contribute to the beer's flavor (or, more likely, remove flavors from the beer).  Below 40, the flavor of your beer likely won't change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which temperature range you choose should depend on how satisfied you are with the current flavor of the beer - if you think there's still too much diacteyl or other off-flavors, go with the warmer temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T17:49:05.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4145" CreationDate="2011-05-02T19:14:25.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No difference post carbonation, IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T19:14:25.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4594" CreationDate="2011-05-03T15:12:31.870" Score="3" ViewCount="1389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Wine Experts Pinot Grigio wine kit and the packet of isinglass is cloudy and has white bits floating around in it. I suspect it is bad. Has anyone seen that before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2011-05-20T01:00:12.757" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T02:47:16.213" Title="The isinglass in my wine kit is cloudy. Has it gone bad?" Tags="|wine|kits|isinglass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4152" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-03T18:50:31.770" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-05-03T18:50:31.770" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T18:50:31.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4153" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-03T18:50:31.770" Score="0" Body="Yeasts are micro-organisms used in brewing to produce alcohol during the process of fermentation." OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="916" LastEditDate="2011-05-03T20:35:57.863" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T20:35:57.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4154" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-03T18:52:32.937" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-05-03T18:52:32.937" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T18:52:32.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4155" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-03T18:52:32.937" Score="0" Body="The various hardware items for producing beer or wine. Includes buckets, carboys, kegs, hoses, airlocks, etc." OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-05-10T16:08:10.407" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T16:08:10.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4156" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-03T18:54:26.257" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-05-03T18:54:26.257" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T18:54:26.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4157" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-03T18:54:26.257" Score="0" Body="The process of moving beer or wine in to bottles and sealing them for later consumption." OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="916" LastEditDate="2011-05-03T19:09:17.550" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T19:09:17.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-05-04T07:10:34.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like Citra, Amarillo and Cascade for citrusy aromas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="990" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T07:10:34.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4115" CreationDate="2011-05-04T07:32:03.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to brewchez' answer, if you already have a picnic tap with a black beer-out disconnect on a long enough beer line, you should be able to syphon the beer out by filling the beer line and keeping the tap below the level of the beer in the keg. Obviously you'd also need the pressure relief valve open while pouring. You could start the syphon by either filling the beer line with water (or another beer), or sucking on the end of the tap, or gently shaking the keg with the relief valve closed and the tap open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard of someone using a soup ladle to scoop beer out of the top of a corny keg, but I'd leave that as a last resort!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2011-05-04T07:53:33.463" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T07:53:33.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4160" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-04T14:31:11.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass or plastic containers used to store finished beer or wine. Bottles can be sealed in several ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corks &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caps, pressure fit or screw on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swing top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="916" LastEditDate="2011-05-04T16:01:43.743" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T16:01:43.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4161" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-04T14:31:11.457" Score="0" Body="Glass or plastic containers used to store finished beer or wine." OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="916" LastEditDate="2011-05-04T16:01:50.967" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T16:01:50.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4162" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-04T14:53:14.160" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-05-04T14:53:14.160" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T14:53:14.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4163" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-04T14:53:14.160" Score="0" Body="A list of ingredients and steps used to make a beer or wine." OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="916" LastEditDate="2011-05-04T16:01:54.757" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T16:01:54.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4165" CreationDate="2011-05-04T16:30:41.303" Score="1" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now I brew once month. This gets me to 60-72 gallons of delicious wine or beer per year. But the limit for home brewers in the US is 200 gallons per year per household. To reach that with 5 gallon beer batches I have to brew 40 times a year. With 6 gallon wine kits I have to make 33 of them. Now, that is starting to be an operation! I don't know if I want to go all the way to 200 gallons (think of my liver) but what would be the next step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have experience or recommendations scaling up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T18:19:52.840" Title="Recommendations for scaling up operations" Tags="|beer|equipment|wine|large-batch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4164" CreationDate="2011-05-04T18:19:52.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you can either brew more often or brew larger batches. Either way, you'll end up with more beer/wine, so the first question is what to do with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give it away. I tend to give away about 60% of everything I make.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enter a lot of competitions. Expensive, but it does get the stuff out of the house.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get (or build) a large fridge for long-term beer storage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, now you have a plan on what to do with all the beer. I don't know much about making wine, so I'll focus on scaling up beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brewing More Often&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to brew twice a month. One way I make this easier is by re-pitching yeast. I'll brew 4 or 5 similar beers in a row using the same yeast. And since yeast can't sit around for long after harvesting, I'm pretty much obligated to brew every two weeks. Repitching also saves me the time and trouble of building up a new starter every time I brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep time spent brewing to a minimum, mostly. Obviously, if you're going to do this twice a month, you don't want to have each brew day be 18 hours long. Unless you really love triple decotion mashing, keep time-consuming procedures like that to a minimum. Stick to the short &amp;amp; simple steps. Single infusion mash, batch sparge (or no sparge), 60-90 minute boil, etc. You can be done in 4-5 hours, easily. Once in a while try a longer brew day just for variety and fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learn which steps can overlap. As you brew more, you'll learn which steps you can do simultaneously. You can get the ingredients together as the mash water warms. You can sanitize the carboy while the wort chills. Etc. This will also make your brew day shorter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep that equipment clean! If you have to thoroughly clean your equipment at the start of each brew day, then you're just making your brew day longer. Clean stuff at the end of the brew day and store it a place where it won't get dirty before you brew again. Then, on your next brew day, your equipment will already be clean and you only need to worry about sanitizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brewing Larger Batches&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways to make larger batches: buy bigger kettles or make high-gravity partial-boil wort which you then dilute with water in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lean towards the latter in my brewery. I don't need a 10-gallon (or larger) system. So, on the rare occasions I make a 10-gallon batch, I make 6 gallons of high-gravity wort, split it into two fermenters and then add water to each fermenter to bring them both up to 5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you're always going to make 10-gallon batches, then invest in a system that can produce that much wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T18:19:52.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4115" CreationDate="2011-05-04T19:03:47.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using an autosiphon.  Everything stays upright, and nobody's mouth is on anything.  Rest it on the lip of bung until it gets down about halfway and then lower the autosiphon into the bottom.  Really what you're looking to do here isn't that much different than racking from a carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T19:03:47.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-04T21:30:25.943" Score="3" ViewCount="2673" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone describe the flavor that beer made partly with rye adds to beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="296" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T03:40:03.943" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T03:40:03.943" Title="What flavor does rye impart to beer?" Tags="|beer|flavor|rye|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4168" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-04T22:39:04.823" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-05-04T22:39:04.823" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T22:39:04.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4169" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-04T22:39:04.823" Score="0" Body="A fermented beverage made from apple juice" OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="916" LastEditDate="2011-05-05T01:18:40.057" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T01:18:40.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4170" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-04T22:40:01.810" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-05-04T22:40:01.810" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T22:40:01.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4171" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-04T22:40:01.810" Score="0" Body="The product of fermented fruit juice, usually from grapes." OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-05-05T01:18:20.993" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T01:18:20.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4167" CreationDate="2011-05-05T03:17:17.240" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could probably ask 100 different brewers that question and get a hundred different answers.  But simply put: it tastes like rye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most commercial rye beers have just enough rye in their grain bill so that rye flavor is present, but it's generally very subtle.  To me, it's just a slight nutty crispness.  There are homebrew recipes online, however, that use rye for more than half their grain bill, and those beers tend to taste very similar to the grain itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're unfamiliar with the flavor of rye, the best way to get acquainted is to try a small handful of flaked rye or rye malt from a homebrew store.  You can also find the same flavor in a loaf of rye bread or a wafer of rye crispbread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T03:17:17.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4175" CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:50:25.150" Score="2" ViewCount="1482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been extraordinarily lazy lately and have kept 2 of my beers sitting around for some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the longest you've kept your beer on primary and still had good results? I'm hearing arguments back and forth as to whether or not autolysis actually exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a IIPA dry-hopping in secondary for a month and a half now, and a choc stout sitting in primary for about the same time.  i still have to secondary my stout onto some cacao nibs and vanilla beans as well, so that'll take a couple weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think I'm still okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1104" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T12:45:35.370" Title="Longest time in carboy?" Tags="|fermentation|secondary|dry-hop|primary|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4173" CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:20:41.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I myself have never gone past a month on primary, but that's due to me wanting to keep the pipeline moving. Conventional wisdom now is that true autolysis is really, really hard to get under normal home brewing conditions. You need more heat and pressure than is generated by 5 gal of ale sitting in a carboy. I would be nervous about going past a few months on primary, but I would still be surprised if this hurt the beer (loss of hop or yeast flavor aside - don't age your IPAs and Hefes that long or they'll get boring.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only concern I'd have is with dry hopping your IIPA that long. You can get some unwanted grassy flavors that way, especially if the beer is dry hopping at room temps. So thats way more of a concern than off flavors from the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T14:20:41.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4173" CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:54:53.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a Porter and an IPA go for 5 months in primary.  They were even in plastic buckets.  They were in a cool garage for the winter time and never froze.  The beers were as good as I'd expect them to be.  The IPA had lost some of its aroma, so I just passed it off as a normal Pale instead.  Both beers very drinkable with no off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just recently kegged an ordinary bitter that sat in primary for 7 months.  It only had an OG of 1.038!!! Stored in a sort of cool finished basement.  It was in glass.  I even transported the carboy in my car to my new house a month before kegging.  So the yeast cake got stirred up and sloshed around a little bit.  The beer tastes a bit old, but its not bad.  It shows no signs of yeast flaws.  (It also demonstrates a bit of quality control on my sanitation practices... yes patting myself on the back there.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Autolysis?  What is that, I say?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your beer is fine one month in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T14:54:53.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4173" CreationDate="2011-05-05T15:28:59.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Me: 6 months in a carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're totally okay. RDWHAHB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2011-05-05T21:04:39.397" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T21:04:39.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4181" CreationDate="2011-05-06T04:22:51.670" Score="5" ViewCount="2207" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me, there's a really distinctive flavor in Warsteiner Premium Verum.  I get a ton of it in Warsteiner, a fair bit in Beck's, and a bit in Pilsner Urquell.  I'm quite sure the thing I'm tasting is malt-related, not hop-related.  The BJCP description of 2A German Pilsner makes me think that &quot;graham cracker&quot; is perhaps the thing I'm smelling/tasting, but I'm really not sure.  Perhaps it's just a malty sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've hoped for the same flavor to show up in my homebrews, but it hasn't yet.  I've made a few batches with just Gambrinus pilsner malt, but haven't been able to get my hands on any other pilsner malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone thinks they know the taste I'm referring to, how would you describe it?  And secondarily, how would you achieve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="981" LastEditDate="2011-05-07T22:29:44.687" LastActivityDate="2021-12-10T22:35:15.017" Title="What is the distinctive flavor in Warsteiner Premium Verum?" Tags="|beer|flavor|malt|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4179" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4180" CreationDate="2011-05-06T13:05:40.907" Score="9" ViewCount="6061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a 5.5 gallon batch of witbier.  After primary, I bottled 3 gallons of it and racked the other 2.5 gallons into a 3 gallon carboy atop 24 ounces of raspberries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the secondary fermentation had completed and the beer fell clear, there was a good bit of now-beige raspberry gunk in the bottom of the carboy, and just as much floating at the top.  I had a hard time siphoning the beer off of the fruit.  I used an auto-siphon wrapped in nylon pantyhose.  That worked well for preventing the fruit from getting into the siphon, but it kept clogging at the base and I was unable to get the last half gallon or three quarts of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I liked the way the beer turned out and I'll probably do it again, but in the future I want to have a better way to rack off the fruit.  Have you done it before?  What works well for you?  I'm thinking maybe if I secondary in a bucket and build some sort of round screen that I can use to push all the fruit to the bottom - like a French press - then rack from above the screen...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T03:36:56.723" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T22:44:10.527" Title="What's the best way to rack beer off of fruit?" Tags="|beer|fruit|filtering|siphon|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4179" CreationDate="2011-05-06T14:58:46.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do use a bucket for the secondary then you can just keep the whole lot of berries in a muslin bag. Just don't make it too tight so there is enough circulation to impart the flavors. Other than that you may just have to convince yourself that it is an acceptable loss for some great beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T14:58:46.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4178" CreationDate="2011-05-06T21:33:32.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the flavor you are speaking of.  I think you are only going to get there with a quality imported pilsner malt from europe/germany.  I don't think I've ever experienced that graham quality from a domestic (US) pilsner malt.  I am not experienced with Gambrinus Malts beyond honey malt.  Being that they are in north america, I suspect that's why you aren't getting that distinctive flavor you are looking for.  My Weyermann pils malt gets me there when its super fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T21:33:32.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4179" CreationDate="2011-05-06T21:36:48.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the problem is that your fruit to volume ratio was tight.  With only 2.5 gallons its pretty tough to get it seperated.  When I make fruit beer I calculate in a higher %-age of loss because you can't siphon it all out.  Raspberries are especially tough because they fall apart into many little bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T21:36:48.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-08T13:09:47.817" Score="3" ViewCount="1999" Body="&lt;p&gt;my first attempt at brewing is going well. Everything was going well, I went to check the amount of sediment in the bottles beer. With a gentle turn, the beer was leaking out the top. I noticed this in 10 or 11 of 67 bottles. This was 5 days after brewing. I am curious if I should be re-capping my beer or are those bottles toast? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Mat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1322" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T14:53:40.483" Title="Bottling and Caps are loose" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4183" CreationDate="2011-05-08T15:21:29.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to re-cap, &lt;em&gt;perhaps&lt;/em&gt; after adding some more priming sugar.  When you said, &quot;5 days after brewing&quot; did you mean &quot;5 days after bottling&quot;?  Over-carbonating can be dangerous because of exploding bottles.  From what I know right now, I'd say just re-cap, preferably with a new capper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-05-08T15:21:29.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4187" CreationDate="2011-05-08T22:04:36.017" Score="4" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Flanders Brown ready to be kegged for aging, and I'm going at add some oak cubes for the flavor and oxygen and bugs.  I've heard it's a good idea to boil the cubes first, but I feel like that will kill off the Brettanomyces that naturally live in them.  Is this a valid worry?  Does it even matter since I used a Wyeast strain that has all sorts of lambic bugs to begin with (including the beloved Bretts)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T03:37:11.090" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T15:00:52.133" Title="Does preboiling oak cubes kill the brettanomyces" Tags="|beer|oak|brettanomyces|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4183" CreationDate="2011-05-08T22:26:02.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recap and hope for the best. Worst case scenario your beer tastes bad- possibly doesn't carbonate and you use it as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sustainable-gardening-tips.com/organic-pest-control.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;snail bait&lt;/a&gt; in the garden. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to your larger problem though. You need to figure out your capping issue. Some caps have a liquid activated seal. After crimping, you need to tip the bottle to wet the seal. You would also have problems if you're trying to cap twist-off bottles or trying to reuse old caps. Hopefully you just missed the mark on one or two bottles and the rest will turn out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastEditorUserId="196" LastEditDate="2011-05-10T14:53:40.483" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T14:53:40.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4185" CreationDate="2011-05-08T23:59:58.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think relying on the supposed wild bugs in the wood naturally is generally a bad way to go.  You've already done it &quot;right&quot; by pitching an appropriate brewing Brett strain you got from wyeast.  So go ahead and steam your oak cubes first.  You want to give the bugs you put in there on purpose the best chance at being the predominant character in the final beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't over boil your cubes, you'll just pull out too much of the wood characteristics that you want.  I bring water to ~180F and let the cubes sit in there for a bit, then put them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-05-08T23:59:58.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4179" CreationDate="2011-05-09T13:54:42.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm answering my own question with something I just thought up.  If you've done this before, please let me know how it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern with getting the beer off the fruit is introducing too much oxygen.  I just remembered there was an &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/475&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;episode of brew strong&lt;/a&gt; with guest Dr. Charlie Bamforth talking about preventing oxidative staling in beer.  He mentioned that beer would keep much longer if it had sulfites added to it like wine does.  He said breweries won't do that, though, because then they'd have to go through all the &quot;contains sulfites&quot; crap that wineries have to deal with.  There was also a &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3455/adding-potassium-metabisulphite-i-e-sulfites-to-prevent-oxidation&quot;&gt;question on this site&lt;/a&gt; where I argued that I wouldn't worry about adding sulfites to homebrew, saying that it wouldn't be worth the hassle.  Well, I may go back on my words a bit, at least when it comes to fruit beers.  Here's what I'm thinking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm making fruit beer, I think I can run it through my wine press to get the beer off the fruit while preventing oxidation by adding the correct amount of k-meta to bring the beer to about 30ppm (enough to combat oxygen, while staying below the detection threshold).  It's worth a try, I think.  Next batch, I'll press it and see how it goes.  Actually, I may not even have to press, but rather pour it through a funnel lined with a sieve, with a piece of tubing running from the funnel to the bottom of the bottling bucket to reduce splashing.  If I can keep splashing down and add the proper level of sulfites, it might work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll come back to this question after I have a chance to try this and post an update...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T13:54:42.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21" CreationDate="2011-05-09T14:09:07.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can brew darn near any ale at those temps, but remember that your ambient temperature is NOT what the yeast ferment at. Fermentation produces a large amount of heat, so your fermenting wort is often 2-8 degrees hotter than the ambient air temps around the carboy. This can make a big difference on the final taste of the beer if you start pushing into the upper boundaries of the yeast's preferred temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't up for automated temp control yet, I recommend you build a &quot;swamp cooler,&quot; which is basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A big water bath for your carboy&#xA;(like a beverage tub), half full of water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some frozen ice packs or soda bottles&#xA;(change them out daily)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An old t-shirt or towel (put it half&#xA;in water and drape half over carboy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A box fan to blow on the carboy &amp;amp; cloth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the carboy into the water bath, wet the cloth and drap it over the top/side of the carboy, and turn the fan on and point it at the carboy. The fan blowing over the cloth will evaporate the water in it, which cools down the carboy. As water evaporates, the cloth draws more liquid up from the water bath. An ice pack or two in the water further helps to stabilize the temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add some sanitizer or a little bleach to the water bath to help keep the mold away. It will only take a few days of primary fermentation before the yeast calm down, then you can break this rig down if the Domestic Drill Sargent starts complaining about the wet towel/t-shirt. As primary fermentation slows, the heat generated by the yeast drop down to a level where they'll raise the carboy temps by only a degree or two, so your ambient temps will be perfectly fine. Awesome in fact, especially if they stay in the low 60's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T14:09:07.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4178" CreationDate="2011-05-09T14:14:26.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its probably a combination of things too. Alongside fresh quality malt as brewchez says, it might be melanoidens in the beer that come from decoctions or speciality malts. I'm also guessing a good quality healthy dose of lager yeast is contributing to the flavor. I get some awesome &quot;honey&quot;-like notes from some German Pilsners (Schwelmer(sp?) and Flensburgher(sp?) specifically) that I'm thinking are yeast-related. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe throw in some Melanoiden malt or some extra Munich if you still aren't getting that flavor from just the Pils malt itself. I made a straight Pilsner with fresh Weyerman Pils and S-189 (which is like the US-05 of lager yeasts) and while that beer was delicious, it was totally &quot;clean&quot; and didn't have much of a malt profile at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T14:14:26.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4192" CreationDate="2011-05-09T16:26:43.513" Score="3" ViewCount="5103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished brewing a series of 5 Belgian beers, and at least 3 of them have exhibited problems with head formation and retention. I haven't tried the last 2 beers yet, so I can't say if those have the same problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Blonde, Dubbel and Tripel, I'll get a rush of carbonation after pouring and then a thin head that dissipates quickly. And I'm getting little to no lacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these beers used Belgian Pils as the base grain (following the recipes from 'Brewing Classic Styles') and were brewed using a partial mash approach, where about 50% of the beer's OG came from grain, the rest from pilsner DME and other fermentables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first two beers were bottle conditioned, while the tripel was force carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other beers I've made have not had a head problem, so I don't think it's a water problem or something in my brewing system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what could be causing this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T03:36:13.477" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T03:36:13.477" Title="What causes the lack of head formation/retention in my Belgian beers?" Tags="|beer|belgian|head|head-retention|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4191" CreationDate="2011-05-09T18:13:32.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are literally hundreds of factors affecting head formation and retention.  Even though you've eliminated process problems, I'm going to list everything I know of that will harm head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you using a partial boil?  If so, that could be the biggest problem, as proteins will precipitate out of solution, but then when you dilute the wort after the boil, your protein concentration is too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using too much heat during the boil (which helps most aspects of the beer) can denature proteins.  This will result in head formation but poor retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scooping the hot break at the beginning of the boil may also harm head formation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you underpitched your yeast, or otherwise stressed them, they could contribute lipids. that will destabilize your head.  Autolysis will also cause the release of lipids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your mash temperatures may also play a role in head formation.  Too low of a temperature will hurt you, as will too long a protein rest (if you did one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, your beer might just need more time.  Cold aging for a month or two will help polyphenols and tannins to settle, so your head should improve with time if the beer is young.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want a strong head in a beer, I sometimes add an ounce or two of CaraPils (even when the style doesn't call for it).  This contributes little to color, aroma, and flavor, but usually enhances the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T18:13:32.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4191" CreationDate="2011-05-09T18:27:59.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is in no way from first-hand experience, but I heard from one of the guys at a local brew shop that some dish soaps can leave a coating on your glasses that will reduce the head size when pouring a beer.  Its a bit of a long shot, but its worth trying an extra thorough rising before chilling/using your beer glasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="955" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T18:27:59.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4191" CreationDate="2011-05-09T18:55:02.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation practices and pitching rates can have a large effect on beer foam, as Brandon mentioned.  There's a great article here &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/article/indices/35-head-retention/697-getting-good-beer-foam-techniques/%22beer%20foam%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beer foam&lt;/a&gt; that not only describes this but also includes test you can do to help determine what the problem might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T18:55:02.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4195" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-09T20:09:21.897" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-05-09T20:09:21.897" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T20:09:21.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4196" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-09T20:09:21.897" Score="0" Body="Carbonation refers to dissolved carbon dioxide (CO2) in beer, wine or soda. The container holding the liquid is held under pressure like in a keg or bottle. When the pressure is reduced, the carbon dioxide is released from the beverage as small bubbles." OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-05-10T00:55:22.897" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T00:55:22.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4197" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-09T20:13:21.477" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-05-09T20:13:21.477" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T20:13:21.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4198" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-09T20:13:21.477" Score="0" Body="The items included in the recipe to make the beer/wine" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-08-15T17:55:24.503" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T17:55:24.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4199" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-09T20:52:15.670" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-05-09T20:52:15.670" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T20:52:15.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4200" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-09T20:52:15.670" Score="0" Body="Ways of using tools and tricks to accomplish a task. May refer to any portion of work during any stage in the brewing or fermenting process." OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-08-15T16:55:20.893" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T16:55:20.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4201" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-09T20:54:15.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The flavor of beer is very important because taste is the main human sense involved in drinking beer. Use this tag for all questions about flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T00:31:43.743" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T00:31:43.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4202" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-09T20:54:15.060" Score="0" Body="Flavor controls taste - one of the main human senses." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-03-10T13:44:40.413" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T13:44:40.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4205" CreationDate="2011-05-10T01:56:59.317" Score="8" ViewCount="8471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently tried an unfiltered IPA that was fantastic!  I'm a newbie homebrewer and would like to take a shot at one.  What makes an IPA unfiltered?  Can I take any IPA recipe and modify it to be unfiltered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T03:35:48.017" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T03:35:48.017" Title="What about an Unfiltered IPA makes it unfiltered?" Tags="|beer|recipe|ipa|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4204" CreationDate="2011-05-10T02:09:18.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a homebrewer, pretty much all of your beers will be &quot;unfiltered&quot;. You can take steps to make them even more unfiltered, but pretty much, you'll always be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most production breweries filter their beers through a variety of methods. When they make an unfiltered beer, they just skip those steps. The result is often a grainier beer, something with more actual body, as their are leftover grain hulls, hop flecks, and groupings of yeast floating about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find your beer at home is too clear and you want more of the unfiltered profile, try adding a little bit of flaked wheat to your recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T02:09:18.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4204" CreationDate="2011-05-10T13:07:12.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IPAs tend to be cloudier when dry-hopped, particularly if you dry hop with pellets.  I brewed an IPA where I did no dry hop, but rather made a hop tea in a French press where I steeped what would be my bittering hop pellets in a pint of the not-yet-boiling wort after lautering.  When I hit a boil, I pressed the tea off the hops, decanted it into a container and set it aside until the boil was done.  I added it at flameout.  I believe this contributed a good bit of that typical IPA haziness to the finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T13:07:12.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="458" CreationDate="2011-05-10T13:22:12.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your beer had a Belgian-type yeast character, that's a sure sign you fermented too warm. This is especially important with English ale yeasts. A buddy of fine ended up with a decent Belgian Blonde by letting his pale ale with WLP007 Dry English Yeast ferment too warm. Definitely not the Pale Ale he was shooting for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T13:22:12.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4204" CreationDate="2011-05-10T15:27:16.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What makes a beer unfiltered is that there is no filter applied to the finish product prior to packaging process.  I know that may seem obvious, but I point it out to emphasis that if you are expecting some sort of recipe difference, you probably won't find one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filtering process arguably strips beer of some elements such as colors, flavors and aromas.  Key to the IPA question is hop aroma and flavor.  Many times this can simply be overcome at the recipe end while continuing to use a filter for shelf stability and clarity issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, when you homebrew you are making unfiltered beer... as long as you aren't employing some sort of filter.  Your beer should be a fairly straight representation of unfiltered commercial beers. If you aren't getting the right flavor in comparison to some of your favorite commercial examples, I wouldn't be concerned with the unfiltered nature of it.  I would focus on your process and your recipe more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T15:27:16.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-10T20:52:09.270" Score="3" ViewCount="901" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a belgian triple last week.  I was making a starter using white labs trapist yeast, but it didn't take off; must have been a bad vial. So, I picked up a packet of wyeast trapist yeast and pitched that into the same starter to get it going. In the meantime the batch was sitting in the carboy waiting for yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is: while the starter was getting going, and before I pitched any yeast into the carboy, the cooled wort in the fermentor started to ferment. It didn't get going too hard before I pitched a good size starter into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is: What is going to be the effect of whatever got in to the batch to start it fermenting? And, since I pitched a really healthy starter that made fermentation take off, will the yeast I pitched take over and still make a good tripel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: for clarification: When my first starter didn't take off, I added more yeast to it (wyeast).  In the meantime, while waiting for the wyeast starter to get going the carboy of wort started to ferment on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T11:04:38.937" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T11:04:38.937" Title="Wild yeast taking over?" Tags="|yeast|beer|contamination|starter|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4209" CreationDate="2011-05-10T23:05:31.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless something bad happened I think the slight foaming you saw on Wednesday was the original yeast and not wild yeast. Perhaps the wort was too hot or too cool when you pitched the first time and it took a while to kick in or as you said a bad/old vial. The wyeast trapist yeast (what little bit grew) and the white labs trapist yeast will both be active for the fermentation. The beer will be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T23:05:31.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4209" CreationDate="2011-05-11T12:25:28.450" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well your beer will definitely be a &quot;wild brew&quot; so there's nothing else to do but sit and around and see what happens. And I do mean &quot;sit&quot; because you'll probably need to wait 5-6 months to make sure the wild yeasts have done their thing to completion before you bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm glad you pitched the Wyeast instead of chucking the whole thing. All you can do now is give it time. &lt;strike&gt;You might want to do a little research on how safe the final product is. Since its not primarily fermented with Saccharomyces Cerevisiae, there could theoretically be a danger in drinking it, although probably not.&lt;/strike&gt;  &lt;strong&gt;If the beer smells like &quot;beer&quot;, then you are all good and it wasn't wild yeasts! Drink up!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mad Fermentationist recently experimented with wild yeasts as primary yeasts and he's prob got some good info, so google him and read his blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;I'll say that probably the beer will be pretty nasty in the end, but you never know. Could be wonderful.&lt;/strike&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Scratch this, sounds like it will all be fine.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T15:04:15.823" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T15:04:15.823" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4212" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-12T00:06:44.077" Score="8" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a nice batch of Black Cherry Ale, which has been bottle conditioning at 35F for about 5 weeks.  I will need space in the fridge for a keg of Summer Ale in about two weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My basement temps stay around 60-64F and I'm wondering if storing the bottles at 60F+ will adversely affect the character of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it okay to let it warm up a bit in storage once it's done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1333" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-05-12T16:37:27.833" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T09:12:48.307" Title="Is it okay to store cold beer at room temps after conditioning?" Tags="|beer|temperature|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4212" CreationDate="2011-05-12T00:19:49.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably won't be able to notice any difference in a finished lager stored at 65°F versus 35°F.  Keep in mind that it will age faster at warmer temperatures, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T00:19:49.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4209" CreationDate="2011-05-12T00:29:41.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a strong likelihood that the &quot;wild yeast&quot; that started fermenting your wort is residual yeast in the carboy (or other equipment) from your last batch.  Something wasn't properly cleaned and sanitized, and the microorganism in highest abundance is generally your last yeast, so that's what has the best odds of survival.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, though, the yeast may or may not bear strong resemblance to the last yeast.  Because the colony has repopulated from a relatively small sample, with unknown origins and health, I would expect the aroma and flavor to resemble the parent yeast, but with possible profile differences due to the means that the yeast were &quot;selected&quot; and the limited base for the genome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could make observations about the character of the fermentation, krausen, trub, aroma, and flocculation (and later, the flavor)  - these would not only hint as to whether these yeast are the children of those you recently used, but might suggest where the contamination came from - for instance, if this yeast is exactly like your last yeast except more flocculent, then it would be possible that the colony started from yeast cells on the bottom of your carboy which were the first to flocculate in the last batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2011-05-12T00:40:51.757" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T00:40:51.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4217" CreationDate="2011-05-12T01:34:55.887" Score="3" ViewCount="5181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just put on my first all grain homebrew (a porter) here in Melbourne, Australia.  After a day or so it was bubbling away quite nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of days ago the weather decided to change dramatically and the temperature has dropped from around 18-20 ºC to around 14 ºC. The yeast in use is an ale yeast (Wyeast 1338 - European Ale if I remember rightly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got home from work yesterday the fermenter was no longer really bubbling.  So my question is whether this will simply take longer to complete or whether the yeast is in big trouble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect it will just take longer (and the taste will be effected) but just wanted confirmation or suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;Jon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1319" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-05-12T11:53:41.673" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T03:32:53.293" Title="Will rapid ambient temperature drop kill yeast or just slow them down" Tags="|fermentation|temperature|fermentation-temperature|cold|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4215" CreationDate="2011-05-12T10:41:03.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no expert, but I've had a few brews that had temp fluctuations and although it took longer the taste was not noticeably affected. I could have just been lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do think that the important aspect of fermentation is to get it going quickly. Getting a blanket of CO2 over the brew is really important in keeping out the nasties. So, as long as this is not disturbed and the temp can be raised back to optimum I would think you'll be okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you won't want to take too long over the primary fermentation - can you get a belt heater or move it to a warmer place (assuming it's not more than 25 litres or so)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this will kill the yeast as secondary fermentation is often performed at lower temps and the yeast will still re-activate when primed in a bottle or barrel - somebody else may want to comment on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastEditorUserId="1088" LastEditDate="2011-05-12T11:15:38.840" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T11:15:38.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4215" CreationDate="2011-05-12T11:50:57.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A drop in temp isn't going to hurt your yeast, but they may chose to start flocculating a little early.  Keep an eye of the ferment after you get it warmed back up and see if it starts again.  You may need to rouse the yeast (get them back in suspension) if the beer doesn't get started again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, don't make assumptions about what's going on via sight.  When I say watch your fermentation, I mean take a hydrometer sample and see where the gravity is at and if its moving in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer was bubbling for a couple days it could be close to done anyway.  A gravity check is the only way to know what to really do next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T11:50:57.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4220" CreationDate="2011-05-13T03:23:52.677" Score="11" ViewCount="2923" Body="&lt;p&gt;When reading about malt and beer flavors, I often come across words like &quot;biscuity&quot; and &quot;biscuitlike&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I live (Western Canada) &quot;biscuit&quot; is a somewhat ambiguous term, and is not used much.  When I hear the word I would generally think of either (1) a scone-like bun that we used to get with our Kentucky Fried Chicken when I was young, or (2) some generic sort of cookie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone enlighten me as to what &quot;biscuit&quot; means in the context of beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T18:52:10.203" Title="What is a &quot;biscuit&quot;?" Tags="|beer|flavor|malt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4218" CreationDate="2011-05-13T04:24:08.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's between those two things, but closer to the bun.  Dry, very slightly sweet, more lightly-caramel-y, toasty, grainy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T04:24:08.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4218" CreationDate="2011-05-13T11:57:48.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3QuQSdjMVE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Good Eats - Biscuits&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a good ol' boy, though, so ours are like scones without sugar in them.   In beer, it's pretty much malt flavors and aromas that mimic the flavor and aroma of biscuits.   Lightly toasted bread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T11:57:48.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-13T14:09:56.277" Score="18" ViewCount="4462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been reading here about immersion, counterflow and plate chillers and they don't seem to chill the wort much faster than my current method; ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people have stated that their chillers cool the wort to pitching temperature in 20-25 minutes.  I'm able to to chill mine to 75-80 degrees F in 25 minutes or so just filling my sink with ice and water around the brew pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the extra 5-10 minutes cooling time really going to make that big of a difference?&#xA;For the $65+ wort chiller price, I can buy  a lot of ice at the grocery, not to mention the  50 gallons of water I'll save not running the tap for 20 minutes on every batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is an immersion chiller considered essential equipment or is it just another brewing gadget that isn't truly necessary for casual brewers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1333" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T15:23:44.227" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T00:15:45.263" Title="Is an immersion chiller really necessary?" Tags="|equipment|wort|chiller|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4221" CreationDate="2011-05-13T14:34:49.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a 50' 1/2&quot; copper immersion chiller and I can chill a full gravity boil (5 gal) to pitch temperature in 5-10 minutes. I use it outside hooked to the garden hose. The length and the diameter of the copper is the key point. Most 'economy' chillers are 25' 3/8&quot;. The more surface area the faster the chill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is is necessary? I would say no.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; Is it nice to have? I think so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T15:24:48.343" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T15:24:48.343" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4221" CreationDate="2011-05-13T14:37:27.330" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is any of the advanced equipment really necessary?  No, not strictly.  But like any hobby, as we advance we acquire more gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the chiller in particular, if you are performing partial boils of 3 gallons or less, then you can definitely get by without a chiller.  I did just fine.  But once I switched to all grain and the full-volume boils that accompany it, there was no way I could fit my huge pot in the sink with enough ice water to chill it in a decent amount of time.  So I built an immersion chiller from 1/2&quot; OD copper tubing.  With it I can cool my 6 post-boil gallons to pitching temperature (65F, not 75-80F), in about 15-20 minutes.  So for me, a chiller is necessary, but only because I value my time and want to improve my beer through the reduction of DMS, which can develop if you chill too slowly.  For the average partial-boil extract brewer, you can totally get by without one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: if you're pitching at 75-80F, you're not doing all you can to help your yeast make good beer.  Pitch at a low temp then ramp the temps up appropriately.  Again, with partial boils you can get by chilling to 80F then add cold topping-up water to bring the full volume to 65F.  When chilling a full-volume boil, you need to get it all the way down to pitching temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T14:37:27.330" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4226" CreationDate="2011-05-13T14:57:12.090" Score="8" ViewCount="1047" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wheat and a golden ale, both in 5 gal carboys, that have been in secondary fermentation for 2 weeks. I was planning on letting them settle for another week and then transferring them to kegs for 2 weeks of cold conditioning before carbonating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I cold condition them in the carboy or would it be better to cold condition in the keg? If I cold condition in the keg will it hurt to also carbonate at the same time or would be better to carbonate after 2 weeks of conditioning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never cold conditioned before am an not sure what to do. I am leaning toward cold conditioning them in the keg so I can bleed out any oxygen with a little Co2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T03:35:06.710" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T20:00:39.493" Title="Cold Conditioning in carboy vs keg" Tags="|beer|conditioning|keg|carboy|cold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4221" CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:06:47.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also made my own immersion chiller from narrow copper tube - I forget how long it is but there are about 20 turns. For me it is essential as the only place big enough to cool 5 gallons is in the bathroom - upstairs. Carrying 5 gallons of hopped wort up the stairs is too risky on my back, let alone the trouble I'd be in if I dropped it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to do the job in about 20 mins and I too hook it up to the garden hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T15:06:47.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4224" CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:14:02.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It makes absolutely no difference in the quality of the beer which way you do it.  I'd tend to do it in the keg for the reasons you mention.  You can carb it and have it ready to serve when it's done conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T15:14:02.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4221" CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:19:52.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say this is a just a small step below absolutely necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It literally shaved hours off of my brew day, I see the reduction in chance of infection as a huge advantage and almost a necessity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention you chill with ice, how do you do it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you add ice directly into the hot wort? There are infection risks if you do it this way.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you do an ice bath? If so how big are your batches? I had a tough time bringing my 5+ gallon boils down to pitching temp in under two hours in an ice bath (wasn't using a ton of ice though)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing partial mashes with only 2-3 gallons of wort and you're chilling in 25-30 minutes then you're probably ok, but realize that it's going to be that much faster with a heat exchanger (not a reduction of only 5 minutes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T15:19:52.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4221" CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:46:53.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do full wort boils, 6 gallon batches, split between 2 canning pots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cool the 2 pots in a bathtub full of cold tap water, no ice.  I give the wort an occasional stir, as well as the bathtub water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't watch the clock that closely, but I'd say I'm down to pitching temperature in about 30 - 40 minutes.  Our tap water is quite cold in the winter.  I'll see how I do in the summer (I have been brewing all-grain for less than a year).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I look at the surface area of pot which is in contact with cold water, it seems to me like it's greater than the surface area of cold tubing in the immersion chillers I've seen, but I realize that my intuition is likely wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my answer would be &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;, it's not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T19:23:06.873" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T19:23:06.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4230" CreationDate="2011-05-13T16:30:37.590" Score="4" ViewCount="1141" Body="&lt;p&gt;So from what I've read, a lot of professional brewers mash &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; their beers at the same temps (usually around 150F), and use ingredients to adjust the &quot;body&quot; or &quot;sweetness&quot; of the final beers. At their scale, its preferable to keep the mashing process identical for all their batches. I guess they find it easier to fiddle with the grain bill slightly than to adjust mash temps for each recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I am considering moving to this approach for my homebrew. My question is this, &lt;strong&gt;if I mash all my beers at 150F, how can I mimic mashing at, say, 152F or 154F or 156F with ingredients?&lt;/strong&gt; Does anyone have any experience in this area? I could just start with adding 8oz of Cara Pils and seeing where that gets me, but I'd rather hear from someone who's done this alteration before, with the intent of figuring out how to translate a lower mash directly into increased CaraPils or Malto Dextrine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And on those same lines, having used both CaraPils and Malto Dextrine before, but not in identical beers, can anyone chime in on the differences in the final flavor between the two?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6/29: Still hoping someone of the same opinion chimes in here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-06-29T12:11:30.450" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T12:11:30.450" Title="How much Malto Dextrine or Cara Pils is needed to mimic higher mash temps?" Tags="|beer|ingredients|mashing|body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4229" CreationDate="2011-05-13T17:08:50.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not meaning to be a wise guy, but that's kind of like asking &quot;how long is a piece of string?&quot;.  For one thing, adding carapils or malto dextrine might increase the body, but it won't necessarily mimic what happens at higher mash temps.  Also, it's going to be highly subjective, depending on your tastes and exactly what you hope to accomplish.  Finally, we're homewbrewers.  Why would the approach that commercial brewers take be right for us?  It's much easier to adjust mash temp than it is to experiment with recipe adjustments.  Why not take advantage of the freedom we have rather than try to do something that can easily be avoided?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T17:08:50.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4221" CreationDate="2011-05-14T22:21:07.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the record too, while an ice bath can cool just as fast as an &quot;economical&quot; version of an immersion chiller a plate chiller is much faster.  Most plate chillers will take 5 gallons to pitching temp in less than 10 minutes.  At least, that's been my eyewitness account with friends that use them.  I plan to get one in the future too speed up my brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T22:21:07.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4242" CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:52:18.710" Score="3" ViewCount="2985" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if you guys have any suggestions, tips or ideas?&#xA;According to the directions in the kit I got you basically mix in the bottling sugars, bottle, cap and wait a few weeks. Basically I am wondering if there are any tips you guy have in the process so I do not start and figure it out on my last bottle and think, &quot;Well that would have been nice to know 48 bottles ago!&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1350" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:40:58.913" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:40:58.913" Title="first time racking and bottling....." Tags="|bottle-conditioning|conditioning|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:58:18.207" Score="5" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably a stupid question, but.....&#xA;After I bottle and cap the beer do I store the beer in the fridge? Dark but No Fridge? I think I have done a decent job so far, and would hate to FUBAR everything up at this point!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps the kit I purchased is for a Weizenbier....and when I said we did pretty good I mean that we only messed up and added both cans of LME to the boil at the same time instead of early in the boil and one during the last 15 mins. The maker of the kit said this it would just make a darker wheat bear but should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1350" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:48:11.597" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:48:11.597" Title="Beginner Conditioning Question" Tags="|storage|conditioning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4234" CreationDate="2011-05-16T14:05:01.350" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll want to keep the bottles within the yeast's active temperature for the first week or so after bottling in order to keep the yeast active for carbonation. Most likely, that means room temperature. After that, you can chill the beer for drinking or to extend the lifetime (not that there's any rush, we're talking on the order of months).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely keep it in a dark location to protect it from skunking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T14:05:01.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4233" CreationDate="2011-05-16T14:26:09.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That pretty much sums it up. Just make sure you add the priming sugar. Sometimes in your excitement to get the beer bottled you can forget this step. If you do happen to forget the priming sugar you can always get coopers carbonation tabs. Instead of combining all the beer to a bucket and priming you can just pop the cap, add a tab and recap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Store them the bottles at room temp for a week or two so the yeast stays active and carbonates the beer. After that you can put them in the fridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T14:26:09.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4233" CreationDate="2011-05-16T14:33:21.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one tip I can add is to write out each step in point form so nothing is missed. I have a white board in my brewing room and for each batch, I write out each step and a note or 2 on each (IE a target gravity read). This way I hopefully will leave no Leaf unturned or step missed along the way. I am new to this and write notes for each step too so I have referenece as my brewing continues to grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps some&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1324" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T14:33:21.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4233" CreationDate="2011-05-16T15:58:16.470" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some things I've learned over the two or three years of bottling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a checklist for the whole day, (clean, sanitize bottles, sanitize caps, prime, etc...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double check the amount of sugar you're using to prime&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If available, use a workbench so you can stand comfortably&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure your beer is high enough above your workspace so it siphons nicely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have your siphon hose reach to the bottom of your bottle, then pull it out slowly as you fill the bottle (you don't want to aerate your beer), stop just 1/2 inch (1 cm) below the top of the bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a second person help you, easy to fill bottles and then they can cap them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitize more bottles than you think you're going to need&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have some extra sanitizer around in case you drop some/all your caps on the ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's your first time, do a couple of test cappings just so you get the feel of it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a couple of rags around to clean up any spills (they'll happen)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a garbage can handy in case of broken bottles (it happens occasionally)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have some beer handy to drink, don't have too many before you start capping though&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T15:58:16.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4233" CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:35:06.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have them available, I like to bottle 2-3 into the plastic P.E.T. bottles. That way you can just give them a squeeze after a week or so to see if they have carbonated fully. Not a necessary step, but it will save you from opening un-carbed bottles down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T17:35:06.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4240" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-16T18:06:30.990" Score="6" ViewCount="987" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking about picking up one of those little bottles of fruit flavorings to add to a batch of wiezenbier... looking for suggestions on&#xA;1. If they are any good and if they are easy to use&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2/ Suggestions on type of flavor..... I was leaning towards Apricot or Rasberry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1350" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T03:34:03.137" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T03:34:03.137" Title="Advice on Fruit Extract for Wheat beers?" Tags="|beer|fruit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4240" CreationDate="2011-05-16T18:21:17.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can find fresh fruit I would suggest using that. If not, I would go with a puree over the flavoring liquids. I have heard that the flavoring liquids can come out tasting like cough syrup. I did a cherry stout not to long ago and couldn't find fresh cherries so I used 2 cans of cherry puree. It came out great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for flavor, I love a raspberry wheat, but thats just me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T18:21:17.720" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4233" CreationDate="2011-05-16T19:32:36.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil your priming sugar in a pint of distilled water to sanitize it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the boiled priming sugar mixture to the bottling bucket first, then rack the beer into the bucket.  This will ensure the sugar is thoroughly mixed into the beer.  Cooling the priming mixture isn't absolutely necessary; the incoming beer will cool it before too much yeast dies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're using oxygen-absorbing caps, don't sanitize them too early.  Wetting them activates them, so you want to get them onto the bottles as soon as you can after wetting them.  I lay out twelve on the counter, upside-down, and spray them with star-san solution, then quickly get them onto the bottles, then do twelve more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T19:32:36.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4233" CreationDate="2011-05-16T21:39:23.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get a hold of a bottling wand, it will save you all kinds of trouble in the bottling process.  The wand has a valve in it that only lets liquid flow when it is pressed up against a surface.  Press the wand against the bottom of the bottle, remove it just when the liquid level reaches the lip of the bottle, and when you pull it out, you'll have exactly enough head room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T21:39:23.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4234" CreationDate="2011-05-17T00:21:33.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;just store it under the same conditions you fermented it in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T00:21:33.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4221" CreationDate="2011-05-17T03:15:18.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought 5 1-gallon jugs of spring water for my last brew. I used 2.5 gallons for the boil and then I had the other 2.5 gallons in the freezer chilling. Once the boil was done, the time in the ice bath was minimal because I had 2.5 gallons of very chilled water to top-off my wort with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question, no, an immersion chiller is not &quot;essential equipment&quot;, and there are other ways to quickly chill your wort, but that doesn't mean a chiller isn't nice to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="955" LastEditorUserId="955" LastEditDate="2011-05-18T14:47:04.617" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T14:47:04.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4233" CreationDate="2011-05-17T07:56:46.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the above are great suggestions. Don't try to prime each bottle (some directions suggest that this is the process), but prime the entire batch, then bottle it up (you'll get more consistent carbonation, just emphasizing JackSmith's suggestion to that end). If for some reason you want residual sweetness, use a non-fermenting sugar or substitute like sucralose or stevia (I do ciders and this is a must for most consumers). Here is a link to a priming sugar calculator that I have found to make my bottling more consistent. Cheers :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T07:56:46.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4173" CreationDate="2011-05-17T12:45:35.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreed with everyone above. I had a Wheat for 1.75 months and a Pilsner still in, going on 2 months. I should be getting off my butt and bottling instead of typing this even...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;Mat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1324" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T12:45:35.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4249" CreationDate="2011-05-17T15:03:19.680" Score="19" ViewCount="11477" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes referred to as &quot;yeast washing,&quot; the process of yeast rinsing separates the yeast from the hops and break material in the trub.  Most brewers who reuse yeast &amp;mdash; and store it for long periods &amp;mdash; seem to prefer the rinsing method.  Some brewers simply store the trub in one or several sanitized jars.  After storing this trub in the fridge, they will then either reuse this yeast directly or create a starter with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried both methods?  If you reuse the trub directly, how long have you stored this yeast, and have you ever noticed off flavors?  What are the pros and cons of both methods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T20:34:55.517" Title="Using trub directly vs. yeast rinsing." Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4248" CreationDate="2011-05-17T17:05:41.540" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried both methods repeatedly and don't really see any difference.  I have stored yeast with trub up to 5 months and have gotten great results reusing it once I made a starter.  I recently made back to back batches of rye IPA, one with yeast mixed with trub, the other from the same yeast slurry that had been rinsed.  There was no difference in either yeast performance or flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T15:22:32.940" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T15:22:32.940" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4251" CreationDate="2011-05-17T19:39:04.847" Score="6" ViewCount="2349" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any tips to help a 5 gallon glass carboy dry faster? I have it in a bay window in the sun, upside down in a carboy drying rack. It is mostly dry in 24 hours but there is still condensation built up on the inside walls. It takes anywhere from 2-4 days for that condensation to dry. I store my carboy in the basement so it has to be completely dry to keep it from molding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T13:57:06.187" Title="Glass Carboy Drying Tips" Tags="|carboy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4250" CreationDate="2011-05-17T21:29:22.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I leave mine upside down until there is just condensation left inside (no more drips). &#xA;Then if you lay it on its side the condensation will evaporatefrom the bottom side. Roll over and repeat. Mine will usually dry in about a day this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T21:29:22.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4250" CreationDate="2011-05-17T21:30:01.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never tried it but I suppose you could point a small fan into the opening of the car boy. I have a ton laying around because I work on media center enclosures and computers for a living. I've seen &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; small fans (like 4 inches) at my local big box / office supply stores if you don't have anything lying around.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T21:30:01.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4248" CreationDate="2011-05-18T03:44:40.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once again, I wholeheartedly disagree with Denny. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually when homebrewers are talking about reusing yeast and trub, they're referring to the practice of fermenting new wort on an old yeast cake. This topic has come up several times before - you can search for &quot;yeast cake&quot; to see a few examples, but I think the general consensus here is that reusing the yeast cake is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the biggest problem with that method is that the pitch rate is way too high, and pitch rate affects flavor - especially esters, and damages head retention. And overpitching over several generations of yeast results in unhealthy yeast.  You could store unwashed trub, though, per your question, and pitch the correct amount of yeast with old trub mixed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, the effects are generally minimal, to the point that other variables in your brewing setup and recipe would probably have more effect on the beer flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Washing is also more important if you brew many batches with the same yeast, where yeast health is more critical.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T03:44:40.177" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1042" CreationDate="2011-05-18T14:01:25.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I just bottled my first batch and lucky for me I had an experienced cousin come over to help me so I did not have a boil over.... and we still nearly had one! My big mistake was putting the lid on my fermenter then pushing my airlock into the black rubber gasket when it was on top of the beer!!!! After pushing the gasket into the fermenter, having to siphon the beer out to find it and then siphon it back into the bucket I have officially learned the hard way! &#xA;Also, using a kit make sure you read the directions a few times through and have a good understanding of what steps to take. Instead of adding one can of the LME to 2 gallons and boiling for 40 minutes, then topping off to 5 gallons and boiling the 2nd can for 15.....I poured them both in and found out as I stood there stirring that I shouldn't have. Lucky for me the manufacturer said that it will only result in a little darker wheat beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1350" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T14:01:25.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4257" CreationDate="2011-05-18T14:37:27.963" Score="4" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this is considered off-topic, but I'm planning a trip from Philly to Outer Banx in NC next week.  I'm starting to look at my route now, and was curious if any of you out there had any brewery suggestions for me to hit up on the way down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll definitely be hitting Dogfish head in DE and possibly Clipper City (Heavy Seas) in MD if it's not too far out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I should mention that I live in Philly now, so I've been to at least most of the local breweries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1104" LastEditorUserId="1104" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T04:06:10.927" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T19:35:46.247" Title="Planning a trip, which breweries should I go to?" Tags="|commercial|brewery|brewpub|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4256" CreationDate="2011-05-18T15:09:49.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on going to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weepingradish.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Weeping Radish Brewery&lt;/a&gt; (the oldest microbrewery in North Carolina).  All the beer drinkers I know that have gone to the Outer Banks recommend it.  There's also a place called the Corolla Brewpub that I plan on visiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're passing through Richmond there's the Lengend Brewery and quite a few brewpubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Around Norfolk/Virginia Beach area there's a Gordon Biersch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2011-05-18T15:18:54.413" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T15:18:54.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-18T15:11:43.590" Score="3" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just getting into brewing, I have used Fiesta Brew kits, from Canada, and produced some decent beers. I am looking to learn the complete science behind brewing and have done some research and began reading a few books to help with guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I could get some suggestions on some recipes, for various beer types that are fully brewed at home. The kits are great, don't get me wrong but I am looking for a more involved brewing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;Mat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1324" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:48:24.687" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:48:24.687" Title="Recipe for Brewing?" Tags="|beer|recipe|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4258" CreationDate="2011-05-18T15:31:41.507" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will warn you to be leery of a lot of recipe sites on the internet.  Some are good, some are very bad and you have to know what looks like a good recipe in order to separate them from the bad ones.  That said, about the best internet resource for recipes I've found is &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/BeerRecipes&quot;&gt;http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/BeerRecipes&lt;/a&gt; .  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T15:31:41.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4256" CreationDate="2011-05-18T16:03:24.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boulevard in KC is a good one... out of your way,, but a good one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1350" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T16:03:24.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4256" CreationDate="2011-05-18T16:59:28.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Victory is in Downingtown, PA. They just released a new golden ale called Summer Love this past Monday. You can also try their root beer. It is excellent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T16:59:28.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4258" CreationDate="2011-05-18T17:17:32.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used this with good success &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/store?page=shop.product_details&amp;amp;flypage=flypage.tpl&amp;amp;product_id=94&amp;amp;category_id=16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.byo.com/store?page=shop.product_details&amp;amp;flypage=flypage.tpl&amp;amp;product_id=94&amp;amp;category_id=16&lt;/a&gt; There are good clone recipes in it so I feel that I can really get a good idea of how close my technique comes to the real thing. Also many of the recipes have been compiled from help from the master brewers that have crafted them. I am also pretty sure that there may be some in there from you neck of the woods.&#xA;&lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; The really neat things is that 99% of the recipes have all grain and extract versions so you can brew them all to your skill/equipment level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T17:17:32.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4256" CreationDate="2011-05-18T17:33:01.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's Duck Rabbit in Farmington, NC.  I'm not sure where that is in relation to OBX, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Whoops, it's in FarmVILLE, NC, which is considerably closer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-05-18T19:22:53.693" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T19:22:53.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4258" CreationDate="2011-05-18T19:38:35.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess that the books you're reading will include some recipes.  If not, then check out the book &quot;How to Brew&quot; by John Palmer (available online for free, or to purchase in hard copy):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T19:38:35.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4250" CreationDate="2011-05-19T20:18:22.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a hairdryer to warm the sides of the carboy to remove residual condensation. Works great with plastic carboys (heavy-walled Nalgene) and my glass 3 gal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T20:18:22.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-20T03:36:39.900" Score="4" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first batch is conditioning at room temp right now. I used brown bottles, but threw in a few greens and two cleat just for experimentation..... I have them in a fairly dark room but also covered them with a blanket to fully cut off all light! Good idea? Bad idea? Wast of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1350" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T01:53:22.740" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T03:35:44.103" Title="Covering your beer during conditioning....??" Tags="|beer|conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4266" CreationDate="2011-05-20T04:05:01.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have green and clear glass, then you should cover them, yes.  Otherwise, if they're brown glass in a fairly dark room, I wouldn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to do an experiment with brown vs. green and clear bottles, then you probably &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; want to expose them to some light, since presumably that would be the point of the experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not quite sure what sort of answer you're after, here. :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T04:05:01.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4250" CreationDate="2011-05-20T13:57:06.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were in your situation, I'd wait until the drops of moisture are out of the carboy, then turn it right-side up and leave it in the sunshine for a day until it's gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T13:57:06.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4270" CreationDate="2011-05-20T15:12:37.900" Score="6" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;This probably illustrates my lack of knowledge about mashing in general, but I'm going to brew a barleywine with first runnings, and a stout with the second runnings.  I'm going to be adding 1 pound each of Crystal, black, and chocolate malts, and possibly a couple pounds of wheat malt after I have drawn off the wort for the barleywine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on adding the additional water, add the grain, stir, but then I'm lost.  On Denny's page describing batch sparging, he says immediately draw off again, but this is without additional grain, for a single beer.   How do I do this for two separate beers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T01:53:13.847" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T01:53:13.847" Title="When adding grain to mash tun for second runnings, how long should I let the new grain mash?" Tags="|beer|batch-sparge|partigyle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4269" CreationDate="2011-05-20T15:34:31.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often do what you're describing when I make a barleywine.  As long as the added grains don't need to convert (and in your example they don't) you really don't need to wait at all.  At least I don't, and it works fine for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T15:34:31.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4269" CreationDate="2011-05-20T18:14:40.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're thinking correctly.   Add the grain, stir, and wait the normal amount of time you would spend to let the grain settle out.   Do your normal vorlauf and drain it into the 2nd kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you'll need to do some extra work to get the sugars converted in the malted wheat.   I don't think you'll need to do that if you used flaked wheat instead, though.   The sugars in the crystal, black, and chocolate malts don't need to convert.  Between the stirring and vorlauf, you'll get it all mixed together well, just by virtue of the normal processes of batch sparging.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T18:14:40.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-20T18:27:10.073" Score="8" ViewCount="2161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for recipes/suggestions for making wine with tropical fruit. I am particularly interested in mango as I have lots of mango trees here (Nicaragua). I would also be interested in papaya, guava and guava-banana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1362" LastEditorUserId="916" LastEditDate="2011-05-20T22:15:38.257" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T00:03:47.467" Title="Wine from Tropical Fruit" Tags="|wine|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4272" CreationDate="2011-05-20T21:25:13.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Banana is higher in sugar content followed by mango, papaya and then guava. Typically people add sugar in with the fruit to increase the specific gravity. This gives you more alcohol content in the final product. You may not have to add as much extra sugar if you mix the other fruits with bananas. Aim for something around 1.080 S.G. to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pay close attention to the acid balance in the must. That is the most important measurement next to the gravity. The fruit you mentioned is not particularly acidic so you may need adjust it higher. A simple acid test will help you decide. You can change the acid balance by adding citric acid. Adding lime, lemon or orange juice will do the trick. If the acid is too high add water, but not too much water or you lose the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all fruit wine you should add pectic enzyme. This breaks down the pectin in fruit and makes the liquid less 'thick' and helps it clear. It's not strictly necessary but I found it to be noticeable in the finished wine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a white wine or champagne yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not made the guava recipe from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.honeycreek.us/recipe.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; but the cranberry wine is very good. And they have other general wine making advise as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know how you get on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="808" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T00:03:47.467" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T00:03:47.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4275" CreationDate="2011-05-21T01:45:12.147" Score="6" ViewCount="2871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just tried the first bottle from a batch of APA I brewed and it has a very distinct (and unpleasant) earthy / peaty flavour.  Reminiscent of healthy soil.  The beer also finishes with a very sharp acidic bitterness (also unpleasant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could have caused this?  Is it a process error somewhere?  Infection / mishandling?  Just a poor recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it likely to disappear with age or should I flush the lot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentables:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3kg Light malt extract (syrup)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5kg Dextrose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;23L batch, 10L boil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50g Willamette @ 30min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50g Amarillo @ 20 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15g Amarillo @ 10 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops left in the tub during primary (2 weeks) &amp;amp; cold crashed for a week.  Racked into a bottling bucket to keep the crap out of the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermented with Nottingham yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T16:47:37.053" Title="What could cause an earthy flavour in beer?" Tags="|beer|flavor|off-flavor|partial-boil|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4274" CreationDate="2011-05-21T15:20:52.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've often gotten that flavor from Willamette hops.  That might not be your problem, but it's something to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-21T15:20:52.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4013" CreationDate="2011-05-21T18:36:36.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, here's the deal:  I believe that time is the predominant factor in dry hopping, and I had previously thought quantity was just as important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did an IPA with Rye, double dry hopping, divided into:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 ounces of hops for 4 days, 1.5 ounces of hops for 4 days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 ounces of hops for 4 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I did not expect a difference, and with the help of a friend who is very good at distinguishing differences, we determined the first batch was significantly more aromatic.  This is somewhat noticeable in the smell, but also very pronounced in your sinuses, a great addition to a beer I'm now quite proud of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to validate that a significant amount of your aroma comes from time in contact with hops, more so than quantity of the hops.  Therefore, I would guess multiple additions is the best way to get the most aroma, once you're worried about leaving the hops in longer than x days (many people differ on how long it takes to get unpleasant taste from too much time in contact with hops).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2011-05-21T18:36:36.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4321" CreationDate="2011-05-21T22:31:25.153" Score="3" ViewCount="2932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lived in Belgium for 2 years. Once I was in a beer brewing factory, where they said that brewing good beers is a 6 months process.&#xA;Is it really true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how to brew strong beers (~9%)? Like for example tripple leffe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1366" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T01:38:58.203" Title="How to brew strong beers?" Tags="|beer|process|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4274" CreationDate="2011-05-22T11:56:31.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Willamette hops are an earthy variety, IMO.  It could also be something in your water.  Extract has a certain mineral profile already based on where the extract was made.  If your water at home has too much of one mineral that is already well represented it can give you some flavor issues.  Rare but it does happen.  Another water issue may be chlorine or chloramines in the water.  All things to look into, but without tasting the beer myself its hard to pin point it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T11:56:31.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4277" CreationDate="2011-05-22T12:56:00.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically you will want to age in secondary for a while before bottling on the big beers, but I've made an 8% beer and bottled within a month of pitching yeast, and it came out fine.  The beer was a little green when I started drinking the batch, but it was fine before I 1/4 through the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, YMMV and all that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T12:56:00.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4281" CreationDate="2011-05-22T16:09:04.013" Score="13" ViewCount="2569" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to do a taste-test of the beer at racking/bottling time, how indicative of the end result would it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="955" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:48:42.547" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:48:42.547" Title="Is a taste-test at bottling time indicative of the end result?" Tags="|bottling|racking|aging|taste|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4280" CreationDate="2011-05-22T16:14:05.910" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somewhat.  Lack of carbonation can really alter the flavor, but you should be able to pick out major characteristics or flaws in the beer.  But I wouldn't advise reaching any real conclusions until the beer is carbed and has an appropriate conditioning time.  That time will vary from beer to beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T16:14:05.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4283" CreationDate="2011-05-22T17:07:53.377" Score="12" ViewCount="3302" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a brewer were to keep a donation jar near his kegs (i.e. tip jar), would this be strictly legal in the United States?  Sales of homebrew are prohibited, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewbeertoday.com/the-great-chicago-beer-riot/&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; states that requiring a cover charge for a party where homebrew was served would also be illegal.  But, since a dontation/tip is not required to drink the beer, would this also be prohibited?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is really in two parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is it strictly legal to have a tip jar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Practically speaking, does anyone ever actually get in trouble for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that laws will vary state-to-state.  I am interested in any specific information you have, regardless of state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T02:28:32.780" Title="Is a donation jar (for homebrew supplies) legal in the United States?" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4282" CreationDate="2011-05-22T17:25:54.367" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) I think if it said &quot;Tips for the beer&quot; then yes, it would be illegal. If it said &quot;donations because I'm awesome and you want to give me money for no apparent reason&quot; then it would probably be fine. I'm not a lawyer though. So..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) No. Unless you're throwing parties and the ATF has a sting operation and sends someone in under cover to see if you're making 25 cents off a 5 gallon batch of homebrew, you'll be fine. They've got bigger things to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) (The unasked question) A legal way to do it? Make a friend(s) buy the ingredients, and have them help you brew it. Technically, you might even be able to get tips for &quot;homebrew supplies&quot;, as that's not alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: still not a lawyer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T17:25:54.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-23T02:40:21.690" Score="10" ViewCount="2213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still pretty new to home-brewing, but I've got a couple of extract kits under my belt so far and I was wondering how I could get more clarified beers.  I've used both Irish moss and Whirlfloc tablets, but still would like to know what else I could do to obtain better clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="920" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T01:52:23.723" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T17:30:56.830" Title="How to get clearer and more clarified home-brewed beers?" Tags="|beer|clarity|clarification|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4286" CreationDate="2011-05-23T10:07:05.490" Score="12" ViewCount="13969" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently moved to a place that doesn't allow brewing equipment to be imported (But it is legal to brew... don't ask me). I've built a lot of my stuff, but I have a question about airlocks. I've come up with two ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Simply running some tubing into a cup of sanitized water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q2jGC.png&quot; alt=&quot;airlock 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I have with this is that I am worried about the tube slipping out or the water evaporating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Curling some tubing into circles and adding sanatized water into the bottom of the tubing. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fdbci.png&quot; alt=&quot;airlock 2e&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can accomplish this one easily with some thicker tubing and zip ties, but I am worried that is won't function as well as number 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to design one that I can use many times over. Does anyone have experience with homemade airlocks or feedback on the two designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1368" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T21:03:06.147" Title="Homemade airlock" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2011-05-23T11:17:13.390" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the first option for all my carboys and conical fermentors. I have not had a problem with evaporation or loss. Like your recommendation, I do use zip ties to secure the blow off tube to the bucket as well as using water with a diluted sanitizer solution in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second option would make me nervous as a vigorous primary may blow out all the water or even worse, it may get sucked in when you are racking, moving it, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the first 'blow off' option and think about a couple of things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How you are going to secure the tube to the fermentor (I use a plastic hood w/ zip ties)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will you need to expand the solution to include thermowells for temp control, racking &amp;amp; siphoning, etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to secure the blow off tube to the blow off bucket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sizing the tube and blow off bucket to handle very active fermentation. I am always amazed how much gets blown off when you push the volume of the batch in the fermentor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remember to yank the tube out of the water when you siphon / rack off (otherwise you may draw in blow off water)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't drink the blow off water even if it smells amazing :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1215" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T11:17:13.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4298" CreationDate="2011-05-23T12:02:59.593" Score="7" ViewCount="3994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard a lot of home brewers talk about the vigorousness of the boil being quite important. Given that describing the vigor in words like &quot;rolling&quot; is ambiguous I was wondering if it makes more sense to try to tune the viroscity of the boil by tageting a particular boil off percentage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an hour long boil what percentage of the original volume should be lost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T19:57:23.563" Title="Target boil off percentage?" Tags="|boil|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4287" CreationDate="2011-05-23T13:18:46.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually look for 12-15 percent per hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T13:18:46.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4287" CreationDate="2011-05-23T13:25:35.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going for an exact percent can be tricky, since evaporation can be changed by factors out of your control (ambient humidity, etc.). In the summer I might get 10-15%, but in winter it will get up to 17%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T13:25:35.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4287" CreationDate="2011-05-23T13:28:10.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, rolling is about the only thing that matters, and that is to combat DMS.  I haven't yet found reason to worry about a boil getting too vigorous, probably because I aim to make as much beer as my equipment will hold, so boil over is the only thing I'm trying to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This being said, I use electric heating, so I'm not worried about conserving fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just looking to conserve propane, then I'd use some of the other suggestions here.&#xA;For my part, I see about 1.5 gallons per hour out of my 15 gallon keg/kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T13:28:10.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4284" CreationDate="2011-05-23T13:36:04.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once your bottles are carbed up, store them in the fridge for a month.  I've even cleared up (accidentally) hefeweizens that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T13:36:04.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2011-05-23T13:46:44.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think for option 2 to work you would need a pretty substantial diameter hose (I'm talking garden hose diameter or larger).  From my experience with siphoning tubes, air bubbles usually have a very hard time getting around liquid in a narrow tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1 is used by a lot of brewers, as Peter indicated, so I would be more inclined to go this route.  You could secure the tube with zip-ties, duct tape, or anything else that can hold it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T13:46:44.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4277" CreationDate="2011-05-23T13:47:23.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time allows flavors to meld and mellow.  In my experience, almost all my beer gets better with age.  I typically keep beer for a week in primary fermentation, 2-3 weeks in secondary fermentation, and at least a month or two in bottles before I start drinking it.  It's hard to wait, but it's usually worth it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="765" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T13:47:23.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-23T14:00:28.737" Score="8" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much flavor variation exists for 2-row malted barley from different malsters?  For example, how different is 2-row malt from Rahr, Briess, Canada Malting, Malteurop other than price?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="765" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T00:40:38.467" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T00:40:38.467" Title="Differences in various Maltster's 2-Row" Tags="|beer|malt|2-row|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4284" CreationDate="2011-05-23T15:27:04.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time and colder temps in the carbonated bottle are the main way to get it clearer without doing much else.  You may need to identify the type of haze you are getting if that doesn't help.  Haze comes from many different sources: yeast, protein, starches, hop oils etc etc.  Irish moss and whirfloc are only going to touch the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T15:27:04.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4284" CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:13:22.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the title of your question isn't specifically directed to extract beers, I'll also add that correct pH makes a huge difference in beer clarity.  pH is less important in extract beers than in beers using grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T18:13:22.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4294" CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:15:08.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a large difference in flavor between maltsters in my experience.  Which you prefer is subjective and as pointed out, needs to be determined by experience.  My preference is Rahr, followed closely by Great Western.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T18:15:08.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4287" CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:17:46.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's far better to think of boil off in gal./hr. than in percentage.  If you use percentage, that would mean that if you double the batch size you'd double the boil off.  It doesn't work like that.  I boil off about 1.5 gal./hr. whether I do a 5 gal. batch or a 10 gal. batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T18:17:46.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4287" CreationDate="2011-05-23T19:57:23.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding % loss, I can give you a recent example in litres (but the percentages are the same of course). I calculated that my boiler (electric) holds 0.962 litres for every cm depth. My last boil started at 23cm depth and dropped by 5cm over 1.5 hours, so I lost a total of 4.81 litres. Multiply by 0.6666 gives a loss of 3.21 litres per hour or approx 14% per hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all this, it really is important to have the wort 'rolling', though. Personally, I think this is more important than a percentage (even though I do measure the loss). If the surface of the wort during boiling is bubbling and moving with plenty of activity - it seems to rise in a heap so that the surface is changing and uneven, then the loss will take care of itself. Ensure the roll and you will drive off the unwanted elements and achieve the 'hot break'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T19:57:23.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2011-05-24T01:03:34.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may sound weird, but a bong is basically an airlock, the water is used to cool the smoke. Any waterpipe (hookah, nargili) can be used. Any glass or metal tube (like a cigar tube) can be used with a two-hole stopper to make one. Put two pieces of glass tubing in the holes in the stopper, one lower than the other. Fill the cigar tube with water so that the bottom of the lowest glass tube is under water and the other is not. push the stopper into the cigar tube to seal it. Connect the tube from your carboy to the one glass tube that is &quot;underwater&quot;. viola, an airlock. cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T01:03:34.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4302" CreationDate="2011-05-24T02:55:45.720" Score="6" ViewCount="2873" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to do my first all-grain batch. After (batch) sparging is it safe to drop the hydrometer right in or do I need to let the wort cool to a specific temperature first? I realize I will have to do a temperature correction to get the proper pre-boil reading, I am just wondering how hot is to hot for a hydrometer to withstand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:03:37.043" Title="Hydrometer Temperature Limit" Tags="|temperature|hydrometer|sparge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4301" CreationDate="2011-05-24T03:17:47.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's definitely a thermal shock issue, and you shouldn't place a hydrometer into any hot liquid … but I don't think that's what you're getting at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I, too, imagine the hydrometer temperature correction factors will break down after some point, but I can't respond to where that point is; I'd not go past 90°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I got a refractometer, I would have a collection of ceramic mugs into which I would take pre-boil samples, letting them cool throughout the brewing process, and then taking the hydrometer measurements later in the day at the end of cleaning up, when the mash runnings/wort had had enough time to cool down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T03:17:47.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4294" CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:22:08.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been listening to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Basic Brewing&lt;/a&gt; a lot lately &amp;amp; a common theme I've picked up there is that small batch experimentation is the best way to answer these questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the others have said, brew up a 1/2 or 1 gallon wort using each malt and ferment in the same location/temp using the same yeast for the same time &amp;amp; taste the result.  Bring friends too, taste is as subjective as olympic gymnastics so you'll need a panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T13:22:08.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4301" CreationDate="2011-05-24T14:38:28.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue with the hydrometer is the weights inside of it.  The weights will heat at a different rate than the glass and result in pressure against the glass.  I lost my first hydrometer by rinsing it with water that was too cold.  The suddenly cold glass shrank just enough to press against the warmer weight inside and the glass cracked.  Even if I were to slowly raise the temperature, I still would not want to risk the physics of a mass of metal glued inside of a tight glass enclosure.  If I knew my thermodynamics, I could give a more scientific explanation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;jsled also raises a good point about temperature correction.  The hydrometer is calibrated at room temperature.  The further you deviate from that mark, the less accurate your reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T14:38:28.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4301" CreationDate="2011-05-24T18:19:37.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have broken a Hydrometer by placing it in a too hot wort. The end cracked right around the weighted end - see @Bad Neighbor's answer. Once bitten, twice shy. Now, I always cool the wort in my hydrometer vessel by running under the cold tap, or submerging in a bowl of cool water, for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to get the temp down to around 25-30 °C (77-86 °F) and then do a small adjustment to the reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T16:03:37.043" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:03:37.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4284" CreationDate="2011-05-24T19:05:19.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of things to try if you are not already doing them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure to strain the wort as you pour it into the primary fermenter.  This will get rid of the larger suspended particles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a secondary fermenter if you aren't already.  Move the primary fermenter to an elevated spot and let it set there without disturbing it for a day or so before transferring to the secondary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again, move the secondary fermenter into place well before it's time to bottle to allow plenty of time for the particles to settle to the bottom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1372" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T19:05:19.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4284" CreationDate="2011-05-24T19:50:47.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also filter using a plate filter &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/5759/103554/Beer_and_Wine_Plate_Filter_Kit_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Like this one&lt;/a&gt;. One thing to note is you will also filter out some of the beers taste and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T19:50:47.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-24T20:49:06.897" Score="6" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started a batch of American Wheat Ale yesterday and am planning on adding a to-be-determined fruit flavoring to it.  I am debating between adding it when I rack the beer or just before bottling.  What would be the pros and cons of adding it at each of these stages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:41:33.850" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:41:33.850" Title="What is the appropriate time to add fruit flavoring to a wheat ale?" Tags="|fruit|racking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4308" CreationDate="2011-05-24T20:57:20.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say fruit flavoring are you talking about extract? If you are I would use fresh fruit or a puree (Oregon brand) first. The extract can come out tasting like cough medicine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using fresh or puree you can add directly to the primary fermentation vessel or if you are racking to a secondary you can add it then rack on top of it. I have had success both ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the fruit you choose, you can also add some zest with a few minutes left on the boil or a knockout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experiment and have fun with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T20:57:20.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4240" CreationDate="2011-05-25T01:48:06.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't find puree, use frozen. I just brewed a hefe and racked it to secondary on 5 pounds of frozen whole strawberries. Secondary for 1 week, then kegged. Turned out very tasty. If I had to do it all again, I'd go more American wheat than hefe, but we live and learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard strawberries are more mellow, and thus take more to impart taste - so be careful with that quantity of other fruit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T01:48:06.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4256" CreationDate="2011-05-25T01:50:41.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should this go another direction and become more of a wiki article about brewery visits, I can recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oskar Blues in Longmont, CO&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Left Hand in Longmont, CO&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sweetwater in Atlanta, GA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until the brewery laws change, you won't want to visit any breweries in Alabama - it's illegal for them to serve any beer - even samples. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T01:50:41.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4284" CreationDate="2011-05-25T02:56:12.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a wort chiller so you can cool the wort quickly and obtain a nice cold break.  Also take the above advice of using a secondary fermenter and racking carefully between fermenters and the bottling bucket or keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1374" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T02:56:12.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4221" CreationDate="2011-05-25T03:11:14.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wort chillers also help with clarity by making for an effective cold break -- causing the suspended proteins to precipitate by cooling the wort rapidly.  You can make perfectly drinkable beers without using a wort chiller, but eventually your interest in improving beer quality and saving time may outweigh the modest expense of a wort chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a simple copper immersion wort chiller.  It gets the job done quickly enough for me, so I don't feel a need for anything fancier at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1374" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T03:11:14.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4317" CreationDate="2011-05-25T13:50:40.453" Score="5" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having recently purchased my new home, and quite happy to be done with apartment living, my mind naturally wanders to wanting to start up some home brew now that I have the space.  I have what I think might be a great closet in my basement that I think will be a good candidate for a 5 gallon batch of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What considerations should take into account when deciding if this closet is a good home brew environment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1170" LastEditorUserId="381" LastEditDate="2011-05-25T14:40:32.817" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T23:35:54.673" Title="Brew closet - concerns?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|basement|environment|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4315" CreationDate="2011-05-25T14:35:49.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature is the most important thing to consider.  You want the ambient temperature to be about 5 to 10 degrees cooler than your target fermentation temperature (varies by style)--active fermentation increases the temperature of the fermenting wort by that much so you want to keep it cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the specific temperature, you want to make sure the temperature is relatively consistent throughout the day and night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T14:35:49.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4315" CreationDate="2011-05-25T14:38:30.353" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well the easy answers are this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Light exposure - One assumes that since it's in the basement that won't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Temperature - Not only ambient temperature, but whether or not the fermentation vessel will be on the concrete, which will leech heat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Type of beer you brew.  Lagers and saisons aren't going to get made in the basement closet. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Out of sight, out of mind. You will need to aware that you have a beer down there fermenting. I know it sounds like a dumb problem, but everybody has busy lives and if you can't see it, you might forget it.  Just something to be aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to get a temperature profile over the year, finding out how low the temperature goes and conversely how high it goes in the summer.  You can than compare that to the temperature profiles of popular ale yeasts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my part, the basement is a good environment to ferment, store, and age beer.  Basements are generally dark, cool environments, making them perfect for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Congrats on the new house and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T14:38:30.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4315" CreationDate="2011-05-25T14:43:21.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the closet is in the basement I would check the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature&lt;/strong&gt;. If your fermentor is too cold then your fermentation may never take off, or it may be sluggish and give out before the beer is fully fermented. If your fermentation is too hot, then the yeast will produce off-tasting chemicals that might make your beer taste a little bit like bananas. A hot fermentation can also cause the yeast to speed up too much, and starve out – also leading to an incomplete fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mice&lt;/strong&gt; or any other signs of activity that could potentially be detrimental to you brew.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mold&lt;/strong&gt;. All molds have the potential to cause health effects. This is true for beer too. If a spore were to somehow get into your wort you could have a spoiled batch. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T14:43:21.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4256" CreationDate="2011-05-25T19:35:46.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clipper City Brewing, which brews &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hsbeer.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Heavy Seas&lt;/a&gt;, is in Baltimore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T19:35:46.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4315" CreationDate="2011-05-25T23:35:54.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basement is a good place to brew as long as the temp is constant and it is dry. However, if you have the means, I recommend finding an older refrigerator or chest freezer to use as a fermentation chamber. Connect an external thermostat and you can have a humidity controlled, temperature controlled, light-free, clean Fermentation chamber anywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T23:35:54.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4277" CreationDate="2011-05-26T00:29:53.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a high gravity yeast like 3787 Trappist Ale, lots of grain and sugar to make a high gravity wort, and lots of time to hang out in a secondary fermentation. A precautionary warning: be sure to use a larger diameter blow-off tube. High gravity yeast can be VERY active at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My most recent batch of Trippel Dog Dare was in the primary for ten days, secondary for two months, and cold bottles for 4 months. Generally, the longer you wait, the better, but inferior caps can leak over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-05-26T01:38:58.203" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T01:38:58.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4221" CreationDate="2011-05-26T00:32:43.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tip for last degrees of chill with wert chiller&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shake the chiller gently up and down to stir up the wort. Feel the temp of coolant coming out of the chiller to see if you are being effective. The coolant will heat up if you are cooling the wert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-05-26T01:38:10.777" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T01:38:10.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-26T16:12:18.080" Score="11" ViewCount="54052" Body="&lt;p&gt;What effects could heat have on beer and how long does it take?  Is it ok to ship beer without an icepack during the summer?  Can it survive the heat of a parked car for a few hours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone out there has to have done a side-by-side experiment on this (whether intentional or unintentional).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T20:19:07.747" Title="How much does heat affect beer?" Tags="|beer|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4284" CreationDate="2011-05-26T16:59:12.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be blasphemy, but if too much of your wort is lost during the boil, I've been told it's fine to add water to match your recipie, which would also add some clarity to a dense wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T16:59:12.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4324" CreationDate="2011-05-26T17:35:26.060" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat does not cause skunkiness.  That's due to exposure to light.  Heat will accelerate the staling process, producing oxidized flavors among other flaws.  In general, a short period of time in the 80s will not fatally damage beer, but the higher the temp and the longer the time of exposure, the worse it gets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T17:35:26.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4330" CreationDate="2011-05-26T18:20:42.393" Score="7" ViewCount="1166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given a pair of Virgils kegs with root beer still in them, and I've been wanting to use them for homebrewing.  I was at a brewery tour a little while ago and I was told that it's nearly impossible to get the taste of root beer out of the keg, and that it wouldn't be a good idea to use them for brewing.  Is this the case?  Is there a way to clean all the flavor and junk out from the root beer keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kegs are in very good condition, I just don't want to put my beer inside something that's going to mess with the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T22:05:08.053" Title="How do I clean a 5 gallon root beer keg?" Tags="|kegging|cleaning|keg|root-beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4329" CreationDate="2011-05-26T19:33:17.553" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I would replace all of the seals and soak the kegs in hot Oxyclean Free or PBW for a few days.   Maybe rinse and refill with that a couple of times.   Then I'd just use them with strong flavored beers, or beers that would go well with the root-beer flavor for a couple of batches.    If you don't notice any off-flavors, move to more subtle brews.   If you do, soak them in cleaner some more, rinse, repeat.   Or just use them for christmas ales &amp;amp; spice beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;caveat&lt;/i&gt;:  I haven't actually dealt with this problem, I'm just skeptical of the claim that those flavors can't be removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-05-26T20:01:48.507" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T20:01:48.507" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4329" CreationDate="2011-05-26T19:48:21.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A strong, hot solution of baking soda and water is very effective at removing odors.  Rubber parts should be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T19:48:21.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4341" CreationDate="2011-05-26T20:43:44.947" Score="3" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 32 qt. aluminum stock pot was just delivered that I was planning to use this weekend. Taking it out of the box and inspecting it, there is a fairly sizable chip on the inside about 3/4 of the way down. The chip is about 1/4 in x 3/8 in. and is chipped deep enough to expose the inner material of the pot. I was planning on using this for my batch sparge water. Do you think it is safe to use? My gut is telling me to send it back, but if I do that I won't be able to brew this weekend. What could be some of the potential negatives from using it as is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001CHKL3G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Winware Professional Weight Aluminum Stock Pot&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U4WQu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastEditorUserId="1279" LastEditDate="2011-05-27T00:05:43.787" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T12:57:58.153" Title="Is it safe to use a chipped aluminum stock pot?" Tags="|batch-sparge|boil-kettle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4332" CreationDate="2011-05-26T22:07:08.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A chipped aluminum pot will function the same as a non-chipped aluminum pot.&#xA;Be sure to keep it as clean as possible. Since you are boiling whatever touches the chip, it really won't matter a whole lot.&#xA;Return it if you are super worried about it. Better yet, get a stainless steel pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastEditorUserId="1375" LastEditDate="2011-05-27T01:58:17.623" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T01:58:17.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2916" CreationDate="2011-05-26T23:10:16.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if this foil insulation would help: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/pd_13353-56291-ST16025_4294858104_4294937087?productId=1014123&amp;amp;pl=1&amp;amp;currentURL=/pl_Foil%2BInsulation_4294858104_4294937087_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lowes.com/pd_13353-56291-ST16025_4294858104_4294937087?productId=1014123&amp;amp;pl=1&amp;amp;currentURL=/pl_Foil%2BInsulation_4294858104_4294937087_&lt;/a&gt;  It seems like you could just lay a sheet over the enamel while you boil.  Of course, the first time you use it, you should probably babysit it to make sure it doesn't catch fire!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T23:10:16.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4338" CreationDate="2011-05-27T02:25:29.313" Score="9" ViewCount="11405" Body="&lt;p&gt;So what do &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; use for bottling? I'm really starting to look into stainless steel bottles. There are companies that make them (with customized artwork, no less) for conference shwag but you could easily order a small batch and use it for your own goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or can you? My wife seems convinced it won't work. Specifically, her concern is twofold, both related to aging meads/wines in them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&lt;li&gt; The seal may be unreliable. This would no doubt be an issue if you're trying to squirrel away something for a few years.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We're not sure how the metal would react with it, long term. We know breweries/wineries ferment in them and maybe do some short-term aging, but what happens to stainless steel after it's been exposed to an alcoholic drink for a few years?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know much about the behavior of stainless steel in the brewing world?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crossposted to the homebrewing community on LJ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1038" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T16:28:50.137" Title="Can I keep mead/wine in stainless steel bottles?" Tags="|bottling|wine|mead|stainless|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4337" CreationDate="2011-05-27T02:32:29.590" Score="10" ViewCount="11126" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dog, Lilly Von Shtupp, loves to drink beer. I only give her an ounce or so once in a blue moon, but I stopped recently because I heard that dogs are sensitive/allergic to hops. Can anyone either confirm or deny this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T18:16:29.933" Title="Is beer bad for dogs?" Tags="|beer|hops|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4336" CreationDate="2011-05-27T03:06:05.457" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that as well, and seen it mentioned by several sources.   According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dog_health#Dangerous_foods&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, it causes hyperthermia in dogs.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T03:06:05.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4335" CreationDate="2011-05-27T03:06:26.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine storing wine in a stainless container. It is entirely light proof and air-tight. Beer has been stored and served in stainless steel for many years. You are correct, white wines are fermented in stainless vessels. Reds can be too (they add wood chips to the mix to simulate barrels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T03:06:26.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2011-05-27T03:31:28.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a short breakdown of the effects of aging on a few beer styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://draftmag.com/beereditor/cellaring-evolving-flavors/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://draftmag.com/beereditor/cellaring-evolving-flavors/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T03:31:28.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2322" CreationDate="2011-05-27T04:36:44.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found, on several occasions, that the &lt;strong&gt;Belgian Blonde / Tripel&lt;/strong&gt; I make is &lt;strong&gt;excellent at breakfast&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had it with pancakes -- it was wonderful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had it with sausages and eggs -- it was amazing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I didn't have my own available to me I'd try one of these: Maredsous Tripel, Tripel Karmeliet, Saxo, Pranqster, Duvel.  I'm sure lots of others would be just as good, but those are the ones I know of and can think of right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T04:36:44.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4332" CreationDate="2011-05-27T12:57:58.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A chipped aluminum pot will function, but if I just bought it and haven't used it yet I would definitely return it and demand that Amazon pay the shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the mean time, look into Sam's Club if you know someone with a membership, I got a 24 quart for $30 there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T12:57:58.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4345" CreationDate="2011-05-27T14:46:56.627" Score="7" ViewCount="1099" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a golden ale that was severely under hopped. I called my LBHS and the told me to make a hop tea to add to the keg:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 gallon of water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 tbsp malt extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 oz fresh hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;boil for 60 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add to taste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have hops on hand but no malt extract. What is the purpose of the malt extract? This beer is really malty as it is. Do you think just boiling hops and water will achieve the same end result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T00:39:57.500" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T00:39:57.500" Title="Ever made a &quot;hop tea&quot; to balance an overly malty beer?" Tags="|beer|hops|tea|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4343" CreationDate="2011-05-27T15:01:18.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what that amount of the extract would do for you.   Presumably, not much.   I don't think it would add much in the way of maltiness, either.   It may be to &quot;wake&quot; the yeast back up, but I don't think that amount of it would even do that in any significant way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never made a tea for this purpose, but I have dropped a couple of hop pellets in a tea infuser and poured boiling water on them, a 10 minute steep made a quite bitter tea.   I think you'd be fine without the extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will probably produce a different hop character from what you would get from having enough hops in the main boil.   The proteins in the boiling wort coagulate around some of the hop solids and drop out of suspension, and the hop oils will coat yeast cells and flocculate out during fermentation.   You'll probably want to pour several 2-3oz tasting glasses, carefully measure your hop tea, and add it to each glass in varying amounts.   The amount to add to the full batch should scale linearly (&lt;i&gt;i.e.&lt;/i&gt; 1 Tablespoon in a 12oz sample would equal around 50 Tablespoons for a 5 gallon batch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T15:01:18.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4343" CreationDate="2011-05-27T15:05:15.523" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never had success with that method.  1tbsp of extract is someone trying to sound smart.&#xA;I am not a fan of trying to fix an existing brew.  Drink, or blend it with a hoppy IPA.  LEarn from it and either change your process or modify your recipe and rebrew it.  Make it the next thing to brew.  As homebrewers we bounce around a lot.  But if you want to make better beer and be a better brewer take this as an opportunity to learn something.  Brew it again, but better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T15:05:15.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4350" CreationDate="2011-05-27T19:37:54.663" Score="10" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brewing buddy asked me this the other night. I've accumulated a lot of stuff over just an 18 month brew career. Not all of it useful. I know it's subjective, but I'd be very interested to hear other people's answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer: the Northern Brewer aeration system. Not a bad solution for, say, someone who can't rock their conical fermenter. But I've found rocking the carboy and pitching correct amounts of yeast to be just as efficacious and less fiddly and time-consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T16:32:14.460" Title="Which pieces of brewing equipment seem like a good idea to buy, but are of limited usefulness?" Tags="|equipment|mistakes|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-30T18:27:12.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2011-05-27T20:08:25.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never use my flip-top bottles anymore.  They're too much of a hassle.  The cages like to oxidize.  The rubber seals wear out.  They don't seal as well as regular bottles.  Because you don't throw the caps away, if you label them with a little sticker, you then have to clean it off.  You always have to explain to your friends how to open them, and you can't give beer away in them without sounding like a tool when you ask for them to hold on to the bottles to give back to you after they drank the beer.  I bottle solely in regular bottles now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T20:08:25.670" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-30T18:27:12.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2011-05-27T20:21:17.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've getting rid of my bottles that hold more than 22 oz. The 32's and 1 L bottles don't fit well on a refrigerator shelf (usually too tall). You usually end up with a partial bottle that can go flat fairly quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;S&quot; type airlocks - they are a pain to keep clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spring-loaded bottle filler - I find it just as easy to fill bottles directly from the priming bucket and you have one less thing to sanitize before using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T20:21:17.050" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-30T18:27:12.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2011-05-28T15:43:22.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spinning sparge arms -  they don't spin properly, they cause you to lose heat during the sparge, and even the manufacturer says they're useless&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;upside down carboy&quot; fermenter kits -  they just don't work and are a PITA to set up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-28T15:43:22.347" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-30T18:27:12.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2011-05-28T21:45:35.940" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carboy neck handles.  I bought one and never used it and probably never will.  I don't trust the neck on a full carboy and an empty carboy is easy enough to move.  For full carboys I always use a Brew Hauler... definitely a great piece of equipment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably also suggest anything to solve a &quot;problem&quot; you didn't know you have... water treatment, Ph, etc.  You may eventually want to play/experiment with all parameters but sometimes, if it ain't broke, don't fix it works fine.  It's easy early on to worry about everything and buy too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a bottle brush... if it's dirty enough that you need to scrub, it's dirty enough for the trash.  Rinse and dry immediately and you shouldn't have to be scrubbing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I happen to like S type airlocks... I'll use a blow off tube if I'm expecting krausen to get to them -if they do get gunk in them a bleach water solution takes care of it.  I just blow through with my mouth to clear out the gunk once the bleach breaks it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2011-05-28T21:45:35.940" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-30T18:27:12.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4095" CreationDate="2011-05-29T04:40:06.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things we know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edinformatics.com/math_science/science_of_cooking/humulone.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alpha acids have antibacterial (preservative) properties&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Alpha_acids#Alpha_acids&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Humulone / Iso-humulone is the primary alpha-acid in hops (but not the only one)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer_bottle#Lightstruck_beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Iso-humulone molecules are broken down when beer is skunked&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if your beer is skunked, it seems to follow that it will have lost at least some of its preservative properties.  Although I figure the beer would have some remaining anti-bacterial properties from the unskunked iso-humulone molecules &amp;amp; other alpha acids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T04:40:06.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4354" CreationDate="2011-05-29T04:56:58.603" Score="10" ViewCount="7421" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good yeast sample can be retrieved, stored &amp;amp; reused regularly across brews.  Is there a limit to the number of generations a sample can last?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard that after so many generations a strain can mutate into something different, is there a rule of thumb for how many uses this is?  Ignoring mutation, can yeast otherwise last forever if it's properly stored &amp;amp; handled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T14:40:44.977" Title="How many times can yeast be reused?" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|trub|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4355" CreationDate="2011-05-29T05:55:08.830" Score="8" ViewCount="7670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just been playing with some treatments for an undercarbonated batch in bottles.  The beer is slightly carbonated, it bubbles up a little when poured, just builds no head &amp;amp; dissipates instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I'd try opening a couple of bottles &amp;amp; adding some carbonation drops, re-seal &amp;amp; see what happens after a week or two.  I put 1 drop each in 2 bottles and 2 drops each in another 2 bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the sugar was added to the beer, it fizzed up.  The 1-drop bottles bubbled a little but I was able to get the cap on quickly enough, however the 2-drop bottles bubbled quite viciously, much like with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKoB0MHVBvM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Diet Coke &amp;amp; Mentos trick&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could possibly have caused this effect?  Obviously it only occurs after conditioning has started, otherwise bottling day would be a huge mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T10:24:08.610" Title="What causes &quot;rush&quot; carbonation when adding sugar?" Tags="|carbonation|sugar|priming-sugar|chemistry|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4352" CreationDate="2011-05-29T07:20:12.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, baring any outside influence in a completely 100% sterile environment, a yeast strain would be good to use over and over again. The issue arises with sterility and outside contamination. I personally don't feel that there is an exact number as to how many times it can be done simply due to the fact that every situation is different and every time you harvest you are going to risk outside contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T07:20:12.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4353" CreationDate="2011-05-29T12:28:59.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bubbles in beer (and other fizzy drinks) only form when the CO2 has particles to attach to. (Related phenomenon occur in cloud formation and boiling water, among other things.) This causes a chain reaction where more CO2 is attracted, and bubbles are formed. When you add sugar to the beer, suddenly there's a lot more for the CO2 to grab on to. The reason this happens so violently with mentos is that they have very fine microstructures on the surface that encourages more bubbles to form, maybe the same phenomenon (but to a lesser degree) applies to the carbonation drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T12:28:59.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3859" CreationDate="2011-05-29T15:07:56.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bottles don't explode, it won't make any difference. The CO2 will just dissolve back into the beer when it thaws. If you were letting the beer carb when they froze, it will take longer to finish. I end up freezing my beer frequently during the long Canadian winters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you partially freeze your beer and syphon the liquid through the layer of ice, you'll be performing a form of distillation. This form of distillation is commonly used in the production of Eisbocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1390" LastEditorUserId="1737" LastEditDate="2011-11-03T20:34:14.990" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T20:34:14.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4353" CreationDate="2011-05-29T15:30:21.973" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nucleation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;nucleation&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;At the microscopic level the surface of the sugar is very rough. This roughness creates a place for the CO2 dissolved in the liquid to force itself out of solution and appear as bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its the same principle that applies to etching in glassware to help promote the appearance of bubbles in the beer.  It can also be debated that the constant stream of bubbles helps get the aromatics out of the beer for enjoyment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T15:30:21.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3709" CreationDate="2011-05-29T18:09:24.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not just wait for the sediment to fall to the bottom then just run your beer until it is clean? It should only take a few cups of beer to remove the sediment. Just make sure the keg rests for a few days before running off the sediment to ensure it all settles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't have a problem bottling after it has been in the keg, but you will need to add a small bit of sugar to let it prime in the bottle.  Cap it and let it sit for a week before opening!  Any sooner and it won't have enough carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1389" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T18:09:24.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3709" CreationDate="2011-05-29T19:29:03.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watch out for exploding bottles.  After only 4 days of fermentation, it's possible that there are a lot of unfermentables left in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T19:29:03.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2011-05-30T06:53:18.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ditto on the spring loaded bottle fillers.  They seem like a great idea maybe the implementation is wrong - wider tube and much softer spring I think would work better than what I have seen in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yeah, as is a total dud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just line up a bunch of bottles in a tub to catch the spillage, start a siphon, and let the mutha run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1393" LastActivityDate="2011-05-30T06:53:18.060" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-30T18:27:12.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3859" CreationDate="2011-05-30T11:20:48.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question (+1) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never frozen beer so could not comment on flavour changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to CO2, this &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be unaffected as long as the beer is in a sealed container - hopefully one that does not split as the beer (90+ % water of course) freezes and expands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the temperature of a liquid drops the solubility of CO2 increases. The drop in temp will not cause the CO2 to come out of solution. Careful thawing should reveal that the beer is still carbonated and that the CO2 has remained in solution throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be that, if the beer was in a sealed container that had a large 'air' space, the CO2 might come out of solution as the temperature dropped, on account that the pressure of gas above the liquid drops (contraction). My command of the physics is not enough to know whether the solubility increase has greater effect than the partial pressure drop above the liquid. For further reading look up Henry's Law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-05-30T11:20:48.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4352" CreationDate="2011-05-30T11:44:20.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer from memory only - I hope I have been accurate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(See comments for strikethrough reasons)&#xA;&lt;strike&gt;Assuming that the yeast that is re-used comes from the conditioned beer not the fermenting bucket&lt;/strike&gt;, and (like the answer before me @Bullet86) also that there are no contaminants, there is no reason why the strain shouldn't continue to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial brewers invest in their yeast as it is an extremely important aspect of their beer and flavour - it is stored in yeast banks, should they have a disaster they can 'withdraw' a sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have witnessed a bath tub full of live yeast being used in a commercial brewery. I also had the luck to use some of this living yeast and my subsequent brew took on some of the characteristics of the commercial product. Their strain had been used over and over for years as it imparts its own flavour to the finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep it clean and healthy and it will be fine to re-use, &lt;strike&gt;but remember to re-use yeast from as late in the process as possible as this will be the best yeast for the job&lt;/strike&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastEditorUserId="1088" LastEditDate="2011-05-31T16:49:13.830" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T16:49:13.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4363" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-30T18:24:03.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fermenting in a Second Vessel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experts currently generally agree that fermentation in a secondary vessel is not necessary for most typical homebrew applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main aim in aging in a secondary vessel is to allow the beer to continue aging while removing the yeast that has flocculated out.   Long-term storage (a few months, rather than a few weeks) on the yeast may encourage autolysis, which may negatively impact the flavor of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some situations where aging in a second vessel would be useful include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood aging&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long-term bulk aging in general&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Encouraging an actual second fermentation by adding fruit or other sugars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-05-31T16:04:31.713" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T16:04:31.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4364" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-30T18:24:03.807" Score="0" Body="Refers to both the phase of fermentation after primary fermentation, and a continuation of fermentation in another vessel." OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-05-31T16:04:34.007" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T16:04:34.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2011-05-31T13:00:16.140" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Intermediary kegging solutions like Party Pigs or Tap-A-Drafts. These things are great when you can't move into a full blown kegging set up, which requires a lot of extra gear, but as soon as you start kegging for real, then they get stuck on a shelf and forgotten. I'd encourage anyone who is considering them to just jump to normal kegs instead, unless you've got serious space constraints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-06-01T12:38:48.360" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T12:38:48.360" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-31T13:00:16.140" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2011-06-01T02:46:38.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would add that as a winemaker the first thing I am ditching are my plastic buckets as primary fermenters. Glass is roughly 3 times the price and stainless steel is 10 times but I think worth the investment if you are in it for the long haul. I don't think this is as big of a deal for beer brewers but with wine, especially country wines, the buckets pick up wine odors and stains after a single use. I recently made watermelon wine and that bucket is lost. It may be technically fine, clean and safe to use but I personally can't use a stained bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T02:46:38.513" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-01T02:46:38.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2011-06-01T03:22:26.750" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had similar fears after reading the warnings on the label until I read Palmer's &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/&quot;&gt;How to Brew, 3rd Ed.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; p. 23, as part of his discussion of different methods of cleaning and sanitizing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;StarSan is only effective when the pH of the solution is less than 3.5. ... This is also the reason it is a no-rinse sanitizer: When the fermenter or bottle has been drained and filled with wort or beer, the higher pH of the wort and beer neutralizes the sanitizing capability, so that the yeast are unaffected. ... [E]ven though  there can be a huge amount of foam in vessels like carboys after draining, it will have no effect on fermentation or flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He even says that StarSan and Final Step (both acidic sanitizers) are his &quot;preferred sanitizers&quot; for whatever he can't easily do in the dishwasher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the scary warnings on the label, he adds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because it is listed as a sanitizer and bactericide by the FDA and EPA, the container must list disposal warning that are suitable for pesticides. Do not be alarmed; it is less hazardous to your skin than bleach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="808" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T03:22:26.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2011-06-01T04:52:42.270" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps I'm failing to &quot;get with the program&quot; on this no-rinse sanitizer thing, but I personally &lt;strong&gt;like&lt;/strong&gt; rinsing.  I like the fact that bleach-and-water does a great job sanitizing, and then I'm glad I've got clean tap water to rinse it all out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't care that the foam isn't going to hurt my beer, I still don't want to be drinking even trace amounts of sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T04:52:42.270" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5249" CreationDate="2011-06-01T13:29:35.893" Score="10" ViewCount="30046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently been reading the labels a bit more on one of my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.littlecreatures.com.au/Beers-Category/menu-id-63.html&quot;&gt;favourite beers&lt;/a&gt; and have discovered that the brewers bottle condition their Pale Ale.  Yet it's sold with no signs of any flocculated yeast in the purchased product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this possible?  Is some sacrifice made to prevent the sediment?  Can I do this at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T11:34:26.107" Title="Is it possible to bottle condition without sediment?" Tags="|yeast|bottle-conditioning|conditioning|trub|sediment|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4369" CreationDate="2011-06-01T13:59:34.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see any way to bottle condition without having some sediment in the bottle.  The sediment is the flocculated yeast that consumed the priming sugar to create the carbonation.  Without viable yeast in the bottle there is no way to produce the carbonation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The definition of bottle conditioning used by your favorite brewery may be slightly different than the traditional way homebrewers bottle condition.  They may be carbonating the beer through priming and then bottling afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T13:59:34.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4369" CreationDate="2011-06-01T14:01:58.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you consider bottle conditioning to be using yeast to generate the co2 to carbonate the beer instead of force carbonating with an external co2 source, then you could keg condition your homebrew and transfer that to bottles once it's carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastEditorUserId="1089" LastEditDate="2011-06-01T17:54:59.473" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T17:54:59.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4369" CreationDate="2011-06-01T14:30:12.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe Little Creatures filter and re-inoculate with a lager strain - keeping the total yeast count very low will help in minimising the sediment. I'm not sure how easy it would be to do at home - assuming you can filter, you'd need to accurately measure an exact quantity of very healthy yeast. You'd probably need to use trial and error and be prepared for poorly carbonated beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is using &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sparkling_wine_production#Traditional_method&quot;&gt;methode champenoise&lt;/a&gt; - I've heard of this being done with beer (eg Deus), but I imagine it would be extremely challenging to do at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1395" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T14:30:12.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4369" CreationDate="2011-06-01T18:14:19.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, bottling without a lot of sediment is possible.  The commercial breweries filter and then repitch a known amount of yeast.  While this does leave sediment on the bottom it is usually a very small amount - a light dusting.  To do this on the homebrew scale without filtering you would cold-condition your beer for a few weeks after fermentation is complete, allowing all the yeast to drop out.  Then you re-pitch about 1/10 of a pack of dried yeast or 1/5 of a vial of liquid yeast, along with your priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that after fermentation is complete, even as the beer starts to clear, you still have 20-40 times as much yeast as the commercial brewers use to bottle condition thier beer.  That is why homebrewers who bottle immediately after fermentation ceases get a large amount of sediment in the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T18:14:19.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4369" CreationDate="2011-06-02T09:45:28.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some brewers in the UK who tank condition their beer. Once they have the correct level of carbonation, they put it through a centrifuge to remove the yeast, but retain the carbonation and put in a bottle. If you leave the bottle for long enough it will throw a sediment as there is still some very, very small yeast particles in suspension, as the centrifuge only removes them down to a certain size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By using a centrifuge, rather than filtering, you don't need to re-pitch and you don't lose the carbonation you've already gained from the tanks. You can't call it bottle conditioned though, as it's not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T07:05:04.860" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T07:05:04.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3625" CreationDate="2011-06-02T10:22:10.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting answers. So if the answers given are correct then couldn't one just add a little malt to boil at first to keep the gravity somewhat low to increase the utilization of the hops. Then after hops are done being boiled take them out and add the rest of the malt so you get the IBU's your hoping for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1399" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T10:22:10.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4324" CreationDate="2011-06-02T10:36:14.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not tested this but this is what i would guess. First off for the shipping i think it would get bad in the heat while shipping (plus it is illegal to ship beer). I think heat in general will make it bad because you still have yeast in the bottle and by exposing it to higher temperatures you will get off flavors produced by the yeast just like you do when you ferment at to high a temp. If your going to leave it in a car I would suggest leaving it in a cooler with ice. So my recommendation would be to keep it within fermenting temps or lower at all times because i suspect it wouldnt taste that good after a short time at elevated temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1399" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T10:36:14.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4282" CreationDate="2011-06-02T10:52:38.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a lawyer and have not researched this at all but here is my opinion. Now I am assuming if you are putting out a tip jar that this is for a party. Then you wouldnt want to put the jar near the kegs because in the unlikely event there was someone undcover there then you wouldnt them to be able to say that it is implied it is for the beer since it is where the bear is. Also I think donations are taxable and maybe gifts are not but you need to check that out to be sure. You could have it as a gift/donation jar and maybe write something to the effect of donation for cost of party or gift if your having a good time or something. Also if you want to be legal I also believe in the tax code where it talks about homebrew it is for personal or family consumption and they could probably get you for giving it away to others. but again you need to double check that. I know i didnt give you any real answers but hopefully some of what I said is helpful for looking into it more and maybe some things you hadn't thought of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1399" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T10:52:38.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2526" CreationDate="2011-06-02T11:07:52.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good article. I would think that it would NOT speed up conditioning. Conditioning starts after you bottle. By introducing beer that is still fermenting you are adding more active yeast and more sugars that need to be turned into alcohol. The beefits like the article said would be to bring your final gravity down more and clean up some of the by products left by your exhausted yeast in a big beer but thats about it. From my understanding and experience if you do this you will want to transfer to a secondary for a big beer because it will take 3 to 4 weeks to stop fermenting and since your adding more sugars it might take another week or 2 to finish out again and you dont want your beer on the yeast cake that long. The best way I think for a big beer is to make a started first. then when you put your wort in the fermenter vigerously stir it up to get as much o2 in the wort as possible for the yeast. Then add the starter to the wort after a few hours before it starts to krausen stir it up more to add more O2 to the wort so the yeast are stronger to do there work then let it ferment and then you can do what the article said if you want to clean the byproducts up from the yeast and lower your final gravity some more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1399" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T11:07:52.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2600" CreationDate="2011-06-02T14:03:09.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;T-58 is a dry yeast that is supposedly the same strain as WLP500 and is designed for bottling big/old Belgians. Sprinkle in a packet of that stuff into your carboy the day before bottling and you should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T14:03:09.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-02T14:13:44.707" Score="7" ViewCount="983" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I picked up a 10-gallon cooler mash tun. It was supposed to come with a 12&quot; false bottom, but the LHBS was out of those. Instead they offered me a 10&quot; false bottom, saying that it would work just as well but that my efficiency might be a little bit lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would a smaller false bottom affect efficiency? I'm trying to picture how the smaller bottom would leave wort in the mash tun, but I'm not getting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T18:14:45.217" Title="Does a smaller false-bottom affect efficiency?" Tags="|mash|mash-tun|efficiency|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4380" CreationDate="2011-06-02T15:05:50.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference is so small, that I would NOT expect a change in efficiency.  Efficiency with a bottom like that is more dependent upon how well your dip tube continues to pull wort off the bottom of the tun.  If you are just using a tube connected to a bard on the false bottom then there should really be no noticeable change in efficiency with a false bottom that is only a couple inches smaller all the way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't even have a base line efficiency with that cooler yet, so the shop people are putting ideas in your head.  Just start using it and see what you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="758" LastEditDate="2011-06-02T15:23:04.307" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T15:23:04.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4380" CreationDate="2011-06-02T15:06:56.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If anything, I'd expect your efficiency to be a bit higher due to less dead space under the false bottom.  In reality, I'd expect the difference to be virtually none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T15:06:56.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-02T15:59:11.267" Score="7" ViewCount="18249" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ive been wanting to get into homebrewing so when I saw the Groupon for this kit &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/irish-red-ale.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/irish-red-ale.html&lt;/a&gt; I ordered it.  However I was in the process of moving so I haven't been able to brew it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put the yeast in the fridge like the box said i should, and the rest I put in the basement where it stays relatively cool&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long will this kit stay good for?  Should I have put the rest of the ingredients in the fridge too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1401" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T15:42:57.363" Title="How long will an extract kit stay good?" Tags="|extract|storage|kits|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2011-06-02T16:32:14.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're kegging and force-carbing, you don't need a carbonation stone.  Waste of money and just something else you need to sanitize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T16:32:14.460" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-02T16:32:14.460" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4384" CreationDate="2011-06-02T16:50:09.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast will have a relatively short shelf life.  Dry yeast typically stays viable for longer.  You may wish to visit the website of the yeast company to determine the viability based on the date on the package.  Either way if it's less than 6 months old it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops should be frozen or at least kept in a fridge.  They can go stale (but stale hops do have their place in this world--in lambics for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extracts do have a shelf life, but they stay good for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T16:50:09.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4380" CreationDate="2011-06-02T18:14:45.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't the smaller false bottom allow for the outer edges of the grain bed to not be rinsed as well as a larger false bottom?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1402" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T18:14:45.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4384" CreationDate="2011-06-02T18:26:53.823" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shelf life of a recipe kit varies based on what type of ingredients come in the kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast- Liquid yeast should be used within 3 months of the production date for best results but can be viable for up to 6 months but a yeast starter is recommended for yeast that old.  Dry yeast can be viable for up to 1 year if stored at room temp and even longer if kept in the refrigerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specialty Grains - Un-milled specialty grains can last for about a year.  Milled grains will stale quite quickly and should be used within 2-4 weeks of crushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops - If the hops are packaged in foil and have been nitrogen flushed they can be stored for up to a year in the freezer, shorter if kept in the refrigerator. You can see a decrease in overall bitterness the longer they are stored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Malt extract - Liquid malt extract can be stored for over a year and still be fine form brewing but oxidation of the malt will increase with time and can affect the flavor and aroma.  Dry malt extract can be stored for 1-1.5 years as long as it is kept in a cool dry place and is not exposed to moisture without a significant decrease in quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To obtain the best results I would recommend brewing within 2-3 weeks of purchase for any kit, but you do have some flexibility if you need to put off brewing.  This is assuming the ingredients you are buying are fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T18:26:53.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4395" CreationDate="2011-06-02T19:59:54.420" Score="3" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if any of you have any opinions on a base malt called &quot;Prairie Malt&quot;, made by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.prairiemaltltd.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Prairie Malt Limited&lt;/a&gt; of Biggar, Saskatchewan (Canada).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's something in the flavor of some of my beers that I don't quite like, and it seems like the only thing these particular batches have in common is this base malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any of you have experience, good or bad, with this malt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T00:35:55.943" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T00:35:55.943" Title="Opinions on base malt: Prairie Malt from Biggar, Sask." Tags="|beer|flavor|malt|base-malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4282" CreationDate="2011-06-03T02:28:32.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they are your friends then you really shouldnt have to worry about getting busted. Here is a link that shows what I am talking about with the law. You can search for the actual law using the chapter and section number provided in the link. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/html/uscode26/usc_sec_26_00005053----000-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/html/uscode26/usc_sec_26_00005053----000-.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just like most laws you could argue you are not breaking any laws because you are not selling it even though they are not family. So to keep things simple there is no definate answer lol. So if you put up a donation jar I cant imagine how anyone would find out if it were illegal. So like i think someone above said maybe you could ask for money from friends to buy malt, yeast, hops and stuff because that is not beer. Its on beer after fermentation. Hope that kinda helps but when it comes to laws from what i can tell it doesnt always matter how it is written because a judge will interpret it any way he/she wants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1406" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T02:28:32.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3543" CreationDate="2011-06-03T12:20:23.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Equipment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5L kegs (will need 4x to brew a 20L batch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-way bungs (1x for each keg)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/3 cup sugar (for priming)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secondary vessel / Bottling bucket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Process&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment primary brew as per usual&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean kegs with warm water and gentle bleach &amp;amp; sterilise kegs as would bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack brew onto secondary / bucket with 1/3 cup sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill kegs to 25mm short of the top &amp;amp; seal with 2-way bung (may need water for lubrication)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store kegs as if they were bottles (e.g. 2 weeks at room temp)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enjoy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Directions taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://minikeg.net.au/cms.php?id_cms=6&amp;amp;temp=6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;minikeg.net.au&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-06-04T00:29:21.100" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T00:29:21.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3859" CreationDate="2011-06-03T12:20:29.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often pop a bottled beer in the freezer for 10-15 mins to rapidly cool if I've forgotten to load the fridge. Problem is, sometimes I then forget. The next morning I find the cap has been forced off and there's a sticky mess. It seems the water content freezes and forces out all the sugar. Tasting the thawed liquid later, it's still bitter but with little sign of alcohol, so it looks like that gets forced out of the neck with the sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1408" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T12:20:29.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="677" CreationDate="2011-06-04T14:54:03.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a ton of information on gluten free brewing over on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f164/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrew Talk Gluten Free Forum&lt;/a&gt;.  One of the more interesting things I saw over there was the use of roasted &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chestnuttrails.com/products/beer-chestnut-chips-5lb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chestnuts&lt;/a&gt; to replace the malt extract when making gluten free beer.  I tried it last fall, and while it wasn't perfect, it was much better than any of the commercial sorghum beers that I've tasted.  I can't wait to try it again.  Here's the basic process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 to 24 hours prior to brewing, soak chestnuts in the oven overnight with some Amylase Enzyme to break down the fermentable sugars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strain the liquid removing the chestnut chips, and use this as the basis of your wort.  If needed add water to bring up the volume to at least 2 gallons.  (From here it's pretty much a normal brew process)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring the wort to a boil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add 4 to 5 lbs of fermentable sugars such as honey or corn sugar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring back to a boil and start a 60 minute timer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add hops as needed according to the type of beer you're making.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 15 minutes left in the boil, add 8 to 12oz of maltodextrin.  Since most of the sugars produced by the chestnuts are fermentable, these beers can have a bit of a &quot;thin&quot; mouthfeel.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the boil is completed, chill the wort, transfer into the primary fermenter, and add water to bring the volume up to 5 gallons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer will be cloudier than a normal beer, so here are a couple of optional steps that you can use to clear up the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add Irish Moss during the last 2 minutes of the boil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After 10 to 14 days of fermenting rack it to a secondary for further clarification.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold crash the beer for 24 hours or so prior to bottling or kegging.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy!  Here are some additional resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chestnuttrails.com/pages/chestnut-beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trails End Chestnut Beer Recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f164/gf-brewing-chestnuts-157826/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrew Talk Chestnut Brewing Thread&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1411" LastEditorUserId="1411" LastEditDate="2011-06-06T17:09:28.337" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T17:09:28.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2109" CreationDate="2011-06-04T15:01:30.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're just allergic to gluten in the malt, then you can use roasted chestnuts as a good gluten free alternative.  You soak the chestnuts with Amylase enzyme at about 160 degrees for 12 to 24 hours to break down the fermentable sugars, and then you use this as the basis of your wort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of information about it over on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f164/gf-brewing-chestnuts-157826/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Homebrew Talk&lt;/a&gt; forum, or in the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/677/glutten-for-punishment-how-can-i-make-a-gluten-free-beer&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; about gluten free brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1411" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T15:01:30.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4389" CreationDate="2011-06-05T00:34:20.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prairie Malt is a fairly standard 2-row, and should not add too much flavor. While I've never tried it myself, you can totally try eating, or sucking on a few of the raw kernels, and see if you can identify the flavor that's bothering you. If it's not that, maybe describe the off-flavor in more detail? It could still be part of your process (equipment issues, temperatures, etc.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T00:34:20.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4396" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-05T01:10:37.420" Score="3" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I attempted an American IPA (Extract) full boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I calculated the OG to be around 1085 using beersmith.  The recipe included just over 11lbs of fermentables (9.15lbs LME, 1.10lb DME, 1lb corn sugar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somehow the OG came out low, around 1070-1072.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can figure is that because of the massive amount of hops I added there was a significant amount of sludge in the bottom of the brew kettle. It was impossible to filter all of this out to get it to the fermentor, resulting in me leaving it behind and topping the fermentor off w/ between 1/3 to 1/2 gallon of water to reach 5 gallons.  Could this cause the lower Gravity reading?  Otherwise I am stumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Bob&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1176" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-08-13T17:17:16.437" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T17:17:16.437" Title="Undershot OG with extract brewing" Tags="|beer|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4408" CreationDate="2011-06-05T06:49:44.787" Score="6" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm cold crashing a batch to clear it up, is it essential to re-pitch when bottling or will there be sufficient residual yeast for carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T00:35:17.707" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T00:35:17.707" Title="Is re-pitching essential after cold crashing?" Tags="|beer|yeast|conditioning|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4396" CreationDate="2011-06-05T07:10:41.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the hops absorbed a portion of the sugar-saturated water.  My money is on the water top-up though.  Adding more water will dilute the overall gravity of the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1007/what-causes-original-gravity-to-be-lower-than-it-should-be&quot;&gt;This similar question&lt;/a&gt; lists a few possibilities if you used grains at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;:  I keep coming back to this question as I have been having the same trouble.  I use Beer Calculus for my expected OG calculations and they currently have a new system in Beta.  After re-entering a couple of old recipes I'm finding the expected OG is much closer to what I am getting out of my recipes.  Perhaps try your recipes in &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopvillebeta.com/recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their beta version&lt;/a&gt; and compare with your results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T23:55:34.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4212" CreationDate="2011-06-05T09:12:48.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have stored 5% ABV beers at 22C/72F (in the dark) and they have been good after a year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T09:12:48.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3469" CreationDate="2011-06-05T09:35:20.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many variables in homebrewing it's really hard to nail down what is important and what isn't! However, after repeating the same recipe several times (English bitter) I have seen no noticeable effect on the final product if I mash-out (170F / 77C) or if I don't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I batch sparge, so this is consistent with what the above commentators have said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T09:35:20.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4352" CreationDate="2011-06-05T11:44:40.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The actual number of harvests depends on strain too. Some strains (german hefe specially) are known for fast mutations - their ability to produce desired amount of esters degrade over each harvest. Others are more immune, like scottish or irish strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1423" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T11:44:40.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1225" CreationDate="2011-06-05T12:04:44.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found no differences between Carabohemian and Caramunich II in my beers, when it comes to aroma and flavors. I think the only difference it's the base malt (bohemian pilsner or munich).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be fair, Weyermann's bohemian pilsner malt is made from German-bred variety which only happens to be grown in Czech Republic, then is malted in Bamberg. The only &quot;true&quot; bohemian malt in Weyermann offer is floor malt which is made by Litovel in Martin, CZ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1423" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T12:04:44.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4397" CreationDate="2011-06-05T12:21:54.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer - it depends. How long the beer was lagered? How flocculent strain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, it's always good idea to add fresh yeast. Pick highly flocculent strain, like Saflager W34/70, 1/2tsp. is enough for 5gal. batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1423" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T12:21:54.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4178" CreationDate="2011-06-05T13:07:29.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dark munich with vienna + caramunich and 2oz melanoiden malt. Then only clean bittering hops (like Magnum) and finally i got this flavor in my vienna lager. I don't know if this makes any difference, but the beer was fermented with Wyeast Munich Lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1423" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T13:07:29.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4406" CreationDate="2011-06-05T14:57:29.817" Score="4" ViewCount="997" Body="&lt;p&gt;Krausening seems to be a fair bit of work to the homebrewer with very little return. So, what advantages does krausening bring, other than not having to add any additional sugar to the beer for carbonation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-07-03T15:45:48.633" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T03:18:37.893" Title="What is the advantage of krausening?" Tags="|beer|carbonation|priming|krausen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4405" CreationDate="2011-06-05T15:21:38.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume by krausening you mean priming with gyle.  I've tried it and found no advantages to it whatsoever.  It's a pain to calculate the right amount and depending on the fermentability of the wort you can get varying carb levels.  I've tried priming with a number of things and always come back to sugar (corn or table) as the most reliable and neutral method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term krausening is more often used to describe adding actively fermenting wort to beer.  This can be an effective way to reduce diacetyl in a batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T15:21:38.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1309" CreationDate="2011-06-05T15:26:58.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common reason for a variation like that is that you did a partial boil and added water afterwards to get your volume.  It's very difficult to get wort and water mixed thoroughly.  The wort is heavier due to the sugar and sinks to the bottom of the fermenter.  When you take a reading, you get the watered down wort from the top of the fermenter.  Unless you steep a LOT of grain, the efficiency of your steep will have little impact on your OG.  If you're making an extract kit and you use all the ingredients and your volume is correct, you will inevitably get the OG the kit was designed for.  It's easier to just accept that than to measure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T15:26:58.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4397" CreationDate="2011-06-05T15:31:04.603" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very unlikely you will need to repitch.  even with cold conditioning, if you looked at the beer under a microscope you'd find there's still a lot of yeast in suspension.  I've lagered beers for months and still had enough yeast left for carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T15:31:04.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1033" CreationDate="2011-06-05T15:32:35.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smacking the pack only gives you a way to assess the viability of the yeast.  It does not &quot;activate&quot; the yeast nor increase the cell count.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-07-07T23:33:47.720" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T23:33:47.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4384" CreationDate="2011-06-05T16:32:13.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can vouch for dried yeast's long-term viability. I found some Safale S-04 in the fridge which had been there for approximately 15 months (and 3 months past its use by date) and I pitched it without making a starter into a kitchen-sink brew. Within 36 hours it was fermenting away nicely and the final beer was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T16:32:13.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-05T18:24:05.720" Score="4" ViewCount="809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner looking to get started with homebrewing. Belgian Ale is my favorite style, so I was wondering if there are any specific problems with trying to do a Belgian-style Ale as my first attempt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answers on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/162/what-is-the-best-type-of-beer-to-brew-for-a-beginner&quot;&gt;what is the best type of beer to brew for a beginner&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9/are-some-types-of-beers-easier-to-brew-than-others&quot;&gt;brewing ease of beer types&lt;/a&gt; questions mostly say to brew what you like, but I was curious if there are any specific tough problems with doing a Belgian-style Ale?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1426" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:48:50.970" Title="Is there anything special needed to try brewing a Belgian Ale?" Tags="|beer|belgian|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4411" CreationDate="2011-06-05T18:39:15.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Belgian character&quot; comes from yeast, so as long as you use any Belgian strain (i its optimal temperature!), you don't need any special things to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1423" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T18:39:15.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4411" CreationDate="2011-06-05T19:38:02.160" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belgian beers are usually cited as being &quot;digestible&quot;.  That means they have a light body that makes them easy to drink.  Most Belgian beers you brew should have around 20% sugar to achieve that.  Don't get taken in by the Belgian candi sugar rocks at the brew store.  Belgian brewers don't use it.  Corn or table sugar works just fine, and if you want a really unique flavor for darker Belgian styles use candi syrup (note: NOT the candi rocks!).  That's what the Belgian brewers use.  Couple that light body with a Belgian yeast and you've got most of what the beer is all about.  Many authentic belgian yeasta are available.  For a couple examples, WY3787 is from Westmalle, WY1214 is from Chimay, WY1388 is Duvel, and WY1762 is from Rochefort.  There is a persistent myyth that Belgian beers are fermented at high temperatures.  In reality, most of them start off at lower temps (mid 60s-70F) and allow the temp to rise after a few days of fermentation to make sure the fermentation is as complete as possible, which again lightens the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T19:38:02.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4234" CreationDate="2011-06-05T21:04:00.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest a minimum of 2 weeks at room temperature (not on a cold basement floor), and I personally let it sit for 3 weeks.  The yeast need time to ferment the sugar.  Giving them an extra week or two can't hurt, and helps improve the beer overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also age my beer at room temperature for several weeks, and then put it in the fridge when ready to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;f it helps the kit I purchased is for a Weizenbier....and when I said we did pretty good I mean that we only messed up and added both cans of LME to the boil at the same time instead of early in the boil and one during the last 15 mins. The maker of the kit said this it would just make a darker wheat bear but should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no need to add the LME early in the boil, that only makes the beer darker.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It will not affect hop utilization either, thats determined by the volume of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1428" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T21:04:00.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4411" CreationDate="2011-06-06T04:57:38.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a book-length treatment of the subject, get &quot;Brew Like a Monk&quot; by Stan Hieronymus.  But it assumes an understanding of basic brewing, so you might consider also getting something like John Palmer's &quot;How to Brew&quot;, which is also available free online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T04:57:38.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4218" CreationDate="2011-06-06T15:12:19.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also a &quot;biscuit malt&quot;, typically either English or Belgian in origin, which is a lightly roasted malt. It gives a characteristic malty flavour to beers. It is great for &quot;ordinary&quot; ales, but use in moderation!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-06-06T18:52:10.203" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T18:52:10.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4418" CreationDate="2011-06-06T18:19:45.563" Score="9" ViewCount="7693" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking around the web there seems to be a lot of mention of the use of the iodine (starch)  test at the end of your mash. Is it actually useful (i.e. is it reliable)? There have been times when I have done the test and it has continually returned a residual starch presence in my mash, even after having mashed for 60-90 minutes at the appropriate temperatures/mash thickness etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some other test one can do, or do we just mash on ahead regardless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-09-11T13:29:57.480" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T01:33:50.633" Title="Is the iodine test for starch conversion pointless?" Tags="|mash|mashing|conversion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4417" CreationDate="2011-06-06T18:30:58.273" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO, yes it's pointless.  First, it's pretty much impossible to not get conversion given a sound recipe and hitting your mash temps.  Second, as you've noticed, it's more than possible to get a false reading.  I haven't done an iodine test in the last 13 years and haven't felt like I needed to do one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T18:30:58.273" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4396" CreationDate="2011-06-06T19:10:15.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other possibility could be temperature related. If you took a reading when the wort was 100 degrees (for instance), the adjusted OG would be 1.078. At 120 degrees, it'd be 1.082. (http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That, combined with a poor mix after top off could mean you were significantly off in your measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T19:10:15.057" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4284" CreationDate="2011-06-06T20:27:38.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're brewing all-grain, try recirculating the wort back over the top of the grain bed for at least a few minutes at the end of the mash.  You can literally see the wort clarifying as the sediment is caught by the spent grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Vorlauf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Vorlauf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1435" LastEditorUserId="1435" LastEditDate="2011-06-06T23:51:01.560" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T23:51:01.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4421" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4422" CreationDate="2011-06-06T22:09:43.910" Score="4" ViewCount="849" Body="&lt;p&gt;My last few all-grain batches have been under the expected OG at least as far as the recipe is concerned. The beers still taste good and all, but I'd like to get my efficiency up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, my last one I really undershot. The recipe looks like it should have been in the 1.070 range, but I only got 1.050.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm doing single infusion &amp;amp; batch sparge for my mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hitting my mash temperatures pretty well (though I want to continue improving this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I look into to get my efficiency up? Where am I losing sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="296" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T12:48:25.783" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T12:48:25.783" Title="Undershooting OG in all-grain brewing" Tags="|beer|mash|all-grain|original-gravity|batch-sparge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4421" CreationDate="2011-06-06T22:40:16.687" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two most prevalent issues for poor efficiency when batch sparging are 1) grain crush and 2) void volume in the tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Take a real close look at your crush.  Crush it twice if necessary.  If you are getting your grain pre crushed through a mail order, I'd invest in a mill and start doing it at home.  My LHBS has a mill that is fixed to a certain gap.  Through experience, if I think the grain is not crushed enough, I'll put it through twice and tell the guys its time to tune up the mill.  Find some fellow brewers that do all grain and see if you can see their crush so you can compare it to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If you put say 4 gallon of water in your mash tun and drain it, you should get close to 4 gallons out, say +/- a quart or so.  If you get significantly less that's sugar you can't pull out of the tun no matter what you do.  So how your manifold or valve (if you are using a braid) sits near the bottom of the tun can have a big impact. 1050 vs 1070 is a ~28% difference pretty big (so I'd suspect crush vs this issue).    From 4 gallons or wort as an example that would be like leaving more than 4 quarts in the mash.  This is the only time that mash tun geometry comes into play in a batch sparge set-up.  You need to shoot for an 85-90% drain of the tun with just water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T22:40:16.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4421" CreationDate="2011-06-06T22:42:37.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great answer from brewchez.  The other thing to consider (after the 2 he mentioned) is your water.  If the pH is way off it can affect conversion.  But crush is always the first place to look.  One other thing to consider is the source of the recipes.  Maybe they're written for higher efficiency than your system gets.  You should always adjust any recipe to your own efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-06-10T15:03:22.280" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T15:03:22.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2011-06-07T08:16:17.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usermode.org/code.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Qbrew&lt;/a&gt;. It works for me and best of all, it's free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-11-01T12:36:24.447" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T12:36:24.447" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4427" CreationDate="2011-06-07T13:04:09.693" Score="6" ViewCount="8382" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, Cascade is commonly used for bittering, and I'm not sure I understand why someone would choose that over the very similar Amarillo, which I think is less common for bittering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cascade_hops&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cascade&lt;/a&gt; has higher levels of cohumulone (which is thought to provide a harsher bitterness -- Amarillo has an average of 22.5 and Cascade has an average of 36.5) and has almost half the average Alpha Acids as &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amarillo_hops&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amarillo&lt;/a&gt; hops (9.5 compared to  5.75).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like Amarillo would be the more economical and tastier option of the two ... unless perhaps you're looking for a harsher hop bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I'm sort of looking for reasoning besides personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="195" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T12:48:29.433" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T04:00:24.413" Title="Why would someone use Cascade for bittering over Amarillo?" Tags="|beer|hops|bittering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4411" CreationDate="2011-06-07T14:18:20.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to homebrewing, as I've only done three brews so far, the last of which was a Belgian wit and I can say that nothing extra was required, nor was it any more difficult than the amber and IPA's that I brewed previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="955" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T14:18:20.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4425" CreationDate="2011-06-07T16:06:49.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably comes down to reputation. Cascade has been really popular in the homebrew community for 20 (30?) years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also... just saw this in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amarillo_hops&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unlike most varieties of hops, which may be acquired and propagated by the purchase of rhizomes, Amarillo hops are privately grown only by Virgil Gamache Farms; the organization holds a trademark on the name &quot;Amarillo.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(also checked in the &lt;em&gt;Hop Union Variety Databook&lt;/em&gt; to confirm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All things equal, I think a private variety will have a tougher time competing against a big player like Cascade, because the private one has limited distribution (can only buy through the owner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think I'll try out Amarillo next time. See how I like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2138" LastEditorUserId="2138" LastEditDate="2011-06-07T16:14:58.717" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T16:14:58.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4425" CreationDate="2011-06-07T17:05:53.510" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long is a piece of string?  What I'm getting at is that it just comes down to personal preference.  For instance, for a lot of styles I prefer a higher cohumulone hop for bittering.  In a Munich heavy IPA that high cohumulone helps balance out the maltiness.  ANY hop can be used for ANY purpose if you like the results.  I don't care for Magnum as a finishing hop, but others do.  That doesn't say anything about Magnum, it speaks to people's preferences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T17:05:53.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4035" CreationDate="2011-06-07T17:22:45.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually chuck my spent hops in the compost and it seems to degrade without any problems. At least, my in-laws tomatoes don't seem to complain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if there were any adverse effects, since we're talking &amp;lt;100g hops here I doubt it would make any difference to a large heap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T17:22:45.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4432" CreationDate="2011-06-07T17:35:47.400" Score="9" ViewCount="684" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of the homebrew I make is made with organic ingredients - organic grain and hops. However, I have never come across organic yeast (!?) or irish moss. Can I rightly call this beer organic, or does the addition of yeast and irish moss relegate it to &quot;beer with organic ingredients&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-07-03T15:13:42.797" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T22:15:29.033" Title="At what point can a beer be called organic?" Tags="|beer|yeast|ingredients|irish-moss|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4430" CreationDate="2011-06-07T18:01:11.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast itself is organic.  The medium it's grown in may not be, but you;d have to contact the yeast manufacturer to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T18:01:11.393" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4430" CreationDate="2011-06-07T20:00:17.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most organic products are not 100% organic.  Compare organic carrots to organic carrot cake.  The FDA or USDA has allowed that a small percentage of the ingredients not be organic as long as the primary and majority ingredients are organic.  There are several organic beers out there that don't use all organic hops, yet the still retain the organic label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure your beer is organic enough to tell your friends its organic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T20:00:17.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4951" CreationDate="2011-06-08T00:28:27.930" Score="6" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shiner Bock and Fireman's #4 both have this weird aftertaste that I can't stand. Any idea what they both have in common so I can avoid it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: It's almost a slimy taste (I know slimy is not a taste, but that's the best way I can describe it). I'm starting to associate it with most lagers. Also Mexican beer. I think it might be a Texas summer heat thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1443" LastEditorUserId="1443" LastEditDate="2011-07-11T13:33:47.853" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T01:26:45.230" Title="What elements are common to Shiner Bock and Real Ale's Fireman's #4?" Tags="|beer|ingredients|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-08T03:29:03.523" Score="20" ViewCount="9992" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just had my first explosion last night. Very disheartening to discover a 22oz bottle spread all over the basement floor with little tiny shards of glass splattered everywhere. I remember overfilling one of them, so I think that's the culprit and don't expect another from this batch. The milk crate I had them in was covered so the spray pattern was only in one direction, but that was by sheer luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I'm now on tiptoes around my bottles since they could go off at any moment and make another large mess. I've got the crate wrapped in towels for the remaining week of conditioning, but &lt;strong&gt;I'm trying to come up with a way of storing the bottles that are conditioning to make it easy to clean up the mess&lt;/strong&gt;.... What do you do? Store them all in plastic tubs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details about bottling this batch of Irish Red extract kit:    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 gallon batch (I messed up the OG reading, the instructions said it should be ~1.044)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottled after 12 days in the primary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gravity had stabilized at 1.015 for several days (the instructions expected FG: 1.010-1.012)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;added 5oz of dissolved corn sugar (a Brewer's Best priming packet ) to the bottling bucket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;racked the beer onto the priming sugar (to mix it) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filled the bottles: about half in 12oz bottles, half in 22oz bottles, and one flip top growler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The day it exploded we had a heat wave move in so my basement increased from 64F to 72F and the barometric pressure dropped quite a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've consumed several of the 12oz bottles and nothing seemed weird about them except they were still green. In fact, they didn't have much head, so I was actually worried about undercarbination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Cause:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4436/expect-the-unexpected-how-can-i-prepare-for-bottle-bombs/4438#4438&quot;&gt;@Jeff's suggestion&lt;/a&gt; and opened and recapped every bottle. Turns out that I had three time bombs waiting to go off that foamed all over the place. I had missed those four bottles with the bottle brush and sent them straight to the sanitizer solution, apparently without looking too closely. Those three gushers had nasty crud caked on the bottom, things floating in the beer, and they smelled bad. Based on what I've read, sounds like an infection. The rest looked fine when I held them up to the sun with a thin white film on the bottom. The bottles were from several cases of 22oz bottles I had inherited from a friend that were really cruddy since they'd been sitting with sediment in a garage for several years. I was checking them pretty closely before moving them to the sanitizer to make sure they were clean, but it looks like four of them skipped a step in that process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Results: My compost pile got three beers and I got a good lesson in the importance of cleaning and sanitizing. And no one was hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="808" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T08:10:59.630" Title="Expect the Unexpected: How can I prepare for bottle-bombs?" Tags="|storage|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4436" CreationDate="2011-06-08T03:59:29.913" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a hard time seeing how overfilling would cause a bottle bomb.  Usually you're talking maybe a half-oz or an oz of difference between under- and over- filled.  And over-filling wouldn't cause that much extra pressure.  If you have one bottle bomb, you should expect the whole batch to be at risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, just waiting for the &quot;remaining week&quot; of conditioning won't do anything magical.  If there's too much pressure in the bottle, there is.  And time will only let the yeast possibly create more pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was your process?  How long after brewing did you bottle?  What was the gravity at that point?  How much priming sugar did you use?  How did you add it to the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should open another bottle and see how much carbonation there is, qualitatively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooling the bottles will relieve some pressure, if you have the space to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T03:59:29.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4436" CreationDate="2011-06-08T04:13:56.900" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had my first bottle bomb (actually 2 side-by-side) after over 10 years of brewing.  The fact that they were in a cardboard box helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I were you I'd immediately:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;refrigerate all bottles, and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;carefully&lt;/strong&gt; open and re-cap each one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never mind about planning for it to be easier to clean up.  Imagine one of those shards of glass finding its way to your eyeball, or any other bit of flesh.  And I'm with jsled ... I don't think this has anything to do with overfilling one bottle, unless you mean that you overfilled it with priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T04:13:56.900" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4439" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-08T05:33:31.217" Score="8" ViewCount="944" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just had a small brewing mishap where I added too much hops.  WAY too much.  I somehow mistook my 2oz hop pellet bag for a 1oz bag and added 1.5ounces of chinook instead of .75 .  This brought my first hop addition to over 110 IBU (WHOOPS!).  In my panic, I made the decision to stop the boil early to prevent any further bittering.  Total I boiled for about 35 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the fact, I did some research and learned all about DMS and now I'm worried that I have 5 gallons of bitter corn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is an American IPA, about 1.058.  On a scale of 1 to f*cked, how bad is it?  What else should I have done in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T00:34:13.057" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T00:34:13.057" Title="Short boil and DMS" Tags="|beer|boil|ipa|dms|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4439" CreationDate="2011-06-08T07:23:09.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I would have completed the boiling process. I am still a novice but I would think that, on balance, the boil is more important than the bitterness. Someone out there may have suggestions for countering bitterness by adding some other flavour in a secondary fermentation, perhaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would fishing out a proportion of the hops with a sieve have made a difference? Perhaps things had progressed too far to prevent bittering, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T07:23:09.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4439" CreationDate="2011-06-08T08:56:32.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option would have been to add additional malt extract to help counteract the bittering of the hops I imagine. Mind you, you'd end up with a pretty high gravity IPA doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you bottle the beer? I'd like to know how it turns out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T08:56:32.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4439" CreationDate="2011-06-08T12:30:04.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that your recipe is all-grain from some of your previous questions, but if it is an extract recipe you probably don't need to worry since most of the DMS boiled off.  A little over a month ago I made a hefe (from extract) and only had a 15 minute boil time.  Neither me, nor anyone who has tasted it can detect any DMS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's all-grain, what percentage of your grain bill is pilsner malt?  If it's not the majority of the grain I wouldn't worry too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2011-06-08T12:45:41.683" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T12:45:41.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4436" CreationDate="2011-06-08T14:53:12.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used plastic tubs, and my last batch I finally had a couple bottles blow.  Made clean up much easier.  Switching to kegging for my next batch so hopefully bottling is a thing of the past for me. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1447" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T14:53:12.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4445" CreationDate="2011-06-08T15:17:11.870" Score="4" ViewCount="3510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made 4 gallons watermelon wine and I wanted to leave it a little sweet. So, when the brew was at 1.01 gravity I added 2 tsp of potassium sorbate. I stirred it well. Over the next few days there was still a lot of activity at the air lock. I let it go about a week. The temperature was 73f-75f. I checked the gravity again and it was, sadly, down to 0.990. I know I can add sugar to get the sweetness back but my questions is: Should I have added the sorbate earlier? How long does it take to work sorbate? Or is there some other trick to quickly stopping the fermentation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T16:35:19.290" Title="To keep wine sweet when do I add potassium sorbate?" Tags="|wine|potassium-sorbate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4444" CreationDate="2011-06-08T16:35:19.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Potassium Sorbate won't necessarily stop an active fermentation.  What it does is prevent the yeast from multiplying.  It is better used as a stabilizer once most of the yeast has dropped out and fermentation is essentially finished.  At this point you can then back sweeten if needed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potassium metabisulfite or campden tablets would be a better option if you would like to slow or stop an active fermentation.  When you add sulfites they make the environment undesirable for the yeast and activity will slow and eventually stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another other option would be to cold crash the must by lowering the temperature to almost freezing and letting the yeast drop out and then adding your potassium sorbate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T16:35:19.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4447" CreationDate="2011-06-08T17:31:22.683" Score="10" ViewCount="5868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to add oak to my second beer, having thrown out the cubes from my first tasty experiment.  This time I hope to pull them back out, store them in bourbon, and re-use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much of the oak flavor is lost with each re-use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T00:27:59.163" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T15:13:51.103" Title="How many times can I re-use oak cubes?" Tags="|beer|oak|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4446" CreationDate="2011-06-08T19:11:34.027" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how long you leave them in the beer.  Manufacturers of various oak products - cubes, beans, staves, chips, spirals, powder - sometimes mention how long it takes for them to give up everything they have.  The lower the surface-to-mass ratio is for your cut of wood, the longer they'll last.  I.e., staves last longer than cubes last longer than chips last longer than powder.  I believe 3/4&quot; cubes are good for about 4-6 weeks of contact time.  After that, they're spent.  YMMV, but if you're only leaving them in the first beer for a week or two, they definitely can be reused.  The second time you use them, it will take longer for the beer to extract the same amount of oakiness as it did the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you store them in bourbon, the bourbon will extract oakiness from them, so you will want to add that liquor to the brew, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T19:11:34.027" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4439" CreationDate="2011-06-08T20:28:57.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the grist bill you used, there's very little chance of DMS.  Even with pils malt, a long boil is not always needed to prevent DMS.  There's more chance of DMS the lighter your malt is.  I've found that vigor of boil is at least as important as length of boil.  I do a very vigorous boil and I can't recall ever having goteen DMS with a 60 min. boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T20:28:57.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4425" CreationDate="2011-06-08T20:33:47.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience,the bittering hops do contribute to hop flavor outside of bittering. Amarillo has different characteristics and as such would depend on what the brewer wants for their beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1449" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T20:33:47.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4436" CreationDate="2011-06-08T22:17:26.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottle bombs only happen when you either overprime, under-ferment or get a contaminating wild microbe that will consume the non-fermentables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really think the entire batch has one of those issues (the filling thing probably isn't the issue) I'd start uncapping them and dumping them rather than wait for them to explode and clean up the mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer is carbonated already then putting them in the fridge would be the logical step to try and keep the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T13:10:29.920" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T13:10:29.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2065" CreationDate="2011-06-09T09:42:02.913" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience with Wyeast: either kolsch on German Ale or altbier on Kolsch yeast comes out fine, and both on European Ale, providing the fermentation temperature is kept below 68F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for hops: most of popular German hops will do. I used Hallertau, Hersbrucker, Spalter and German Northern Brewer and while different, both was at least satisfactory because these beers are not oriented towards hop aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1423" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T09:42:02.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4454" CreationDate="2011-06-09T11:53:55.727" Score="6" ViewCount="4599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to reuse my Belgian yeast (Zymoferm Z039 Belgische Klosterbiere und Ales) and I'm looking for information on how long various Belgian beers should be matured. My cellar capacity is very limited so I'd rather not brew anything that requires &gt; 6 months of aging, and additionally, by my wife's request with OG no higher than 1.075.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like Leffe Blonde. The syle for Belgian Blonde Ale fits the OG requirement, but the question on maturation remains. How long these beers should be aged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1423" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T12:48:34.830" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T12:48:34.830" Title="How long should Belgian Blonde beer be aged?" Tags="|beer|aging|belgian|maturation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4452" CreationDate="2011-06-09T12:22:05.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a typical Belgian Ale lower than 1.070 shouldn't take more than 3-5 months to really come together. Unless you add weird spices that need to settle down over time, or souring bacteria that need a few months to work, then you should be good to go with any &quot;normal&quot; Belgian style that clocks in lower than 1.070. So Blondes, Dubbels, Tripels ... all those styles will be ready before the month mark. Maybe just stay away from Golden Strongs (Duvel), as those take some time to loose their edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more caveat, I used T-58 Dry Belgian yeast once and while it made a delicious beer, it took maybe 6-8 months to loose its &quot;banana&quot; aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are cloning Leffe Blond, it will be very drinkable after maybe just 2-3 months of aging I'm sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T12:22:05.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4452" CreationDate="2011-06-09T13:02:49.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you should be able to completely ferment it within 3 weeks with proper yeast health and management.  Belgian Blonde is not that complex of a beer that it should take months.  I'd ferment and bottle.  Then you can try the beers a bottles incrementally until you think its perfect and really start drinking them.&#xA;Seeing how you are going to be reusing some yeast, I'll assume its very healthy.  So I don't really see a problem here for a quick turn around, even with a 1070 blonde.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer making is a very process dependent operation.  And process and conditions vary brewer to brewer.  So the only real answer here is to try it and see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  Just looking at &quot;Brewing Classic Styles&quot;, Jamil says a week to ferment, carbonate then lager for one month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T13:47:58.623" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T13:47:58.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4452" CreationDate="2011-06-09T16:16:43.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have  Belgian pale ale on tap now that had an OG in the 1.055-60 range.  Took about 3-4 weeks to ferment and it was on tap a couple weeks after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T16:16:43.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4457" CreationDate="2011-06-09T21:17:20.347" Score="5" ViewCount="10026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://makebeer.net/About-the-DIY-Beer-Kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Coopers DIY beer kit&lt;/a&gt; and have started my first ever brew. Ive notticed at the bottom of the fermenter there is a lot of sediment is this normal or have I done something wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1453" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:44:32.163" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:44:32.163" Title="sediment at the bottom of brew" Tags="|beer|sediment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4456" CreationDate="2011-06-09T22:45:06.207" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick Google on the name tells me that this is an add water, sugar and yeast kit, so I am guessing you are referring to sediment in the fermentation bucket. In that case, the sediment is a perfectly normal part of the process. The yeast, which is doing its job of producing your alcohol, is multiplying, flocculating (clumping together) and settling out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to bottling, don't disturb the sediment, just leave it behind in the bucket. Enjoy your brew, before you know it you'll be doing another!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T22:45:06.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4081" CreationDate="2011-06-10T10:35:00.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold slows reactions down.  The reactions which degrade hop aroma would be slowed &lt;strong&gt;partially&lt;/strong&gt; by colder temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as your question states, does it &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; slow the loss of aroma.  I think its largely subjective nose to nose.  Cold certainly slows it down, but significantly is hard to quantify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-06-12T14:10:41.150" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T14:10:41.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4081" CreationDate="2011-06-10T12:21:32.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since my comment got upvotes, and since you put a bounty, and since nobody corrected me nor added more than I originally said, I'll re-submit my comment as an answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I've gathered from reading &amp;amp; podcasts... Hop flavor and aroma is lost primarily through the oxidative staling of polyphenols. Dr. Charlie Bamforth often posits that the rate of staling doubles for every 10 degree C increase in temperature. So if you want your IPAs to taste fresher longer, keep them in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, anecdotally, I can say that even keeping your IPA in a fridge won't stop it from changing over the course of a couple of months.  I brewed an IPA in January 2011 that I felt was too bitter.  However, a few months later and it has mellowed a bit.  It is still quite bitter, but it's more balanced now than it was when it was fresh.  I have posted my tasting notes for the beer online.  First &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whenyeastattack.com/2011/03/04/first-tasting-ipa-beer-17/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tasting&lt;/a&gt;.  Follow-up &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whenyeastattack.com/2011/06/02/followuptastingipa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tasting&lt;/a&gt;.  And click &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whenyeastattack.com/2011/04/11/t-r-a-s-h-xxi-competition-results-%E2%80%93-american-ipa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for competition judges notes, which were taken roughly in between those two tastings.  (I can remove these links if such a thing is frowned upon here.  I just figured they served this answer well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T12:21:32.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4462" CreationDate="2011-06-10T12:31:05.057" Score="6" ViewCount="5178" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Wyeast website seems to strongly suggest a diacetyl as fermentation completes with their Bavarian Lager strain, 2206.  I prefer to chill my wort to below fermentation temps prior to pitching the yeast.  For my current Oktoberfest, I chilled overnight to 50F, then I pitched the yeast and it was fermenting within 12 hours at 52F.  I plan to hold it there for 3 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with WY2206 and doing a cold start to fermentation?  Will diacetyl be produced at detectable levels to warrant a warmer rest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think ultimately, I'll be tasting the beer prior to the lagering phase (32F) and make the call that way. But any experienced help would be appreciated to help plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T12:48:38.730" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T12:48:38.730" Title="Diacetyl Rest for Wyeast 2206 Bavarian Lager" Tags="|beer|fermentation|techniques|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4460" CreationDate="2011-06-10T14:17:43.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a science behind these suggestions (explained by eg Noonan in &quot;New Brewing Lager&quot;). I prefer to perform &lt;a href=&quot;http://scottishcraftbrewers.org/?p=805&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forced diacetyl test&lt;/a&gt; before i decide to warm up fermenting beer. For my past German lagers this was enough (fermented with Bohemian Lager, Munich Lager and Bavarian Lager yeast). And i always pitch cold, at 8-9*C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1423" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T14:17:43.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4460" CreationDate="2011-06-10T15:00:45.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;WY2206 is my go to lager yeast and I've used it many times.  It almost never throws diacetyl if you do a long enough fermentation.  I never pitch a lager at temps higher than 45F, and then keep the fermentation temp around 50ish.  I give it 3-4 weeks in primary, then take a gravity reading and taste the beer.  If I taste diacetyl, I raise the temp for a rest.  If not, I go right to the lagering phase.  I think your plan is a good one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T15:00:45.947" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1270" CreationDate="2011-06-11T16:11:32.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Batch sparging will cut nearly an hour off your brew day compared to fly sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T16:11:32.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4466" CreationDate="2011-06-11T18:42:17.197" Score="7" ViewCount="3502" Body="&lt;p&gt;As homebrewers why do we take longer to ferment our beer than what seems like the time-line at the commercial/pro level.  Everytime I take a brewery tour or a listen to a podcast that interviews a pro brewer it seems like they ferment for around four days, for example.  Then the beer is pushed to a bright tank or through the filter, carbonated and packaged.  At home we let it ferment for at least 7 days.  I tend to go for 14 days, mostly being lazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We all hear about leaving the beer in primary long enough so the yeast can &quot;clean-up&quot; after the ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insight into these differences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T12:48:42.147" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T12:48:42.147" Title="Brewed beer turnaround time" Tags="|beer|fermentation|maturation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4465" CreationDate="2011-06-11T18:49:05.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Differences in scale, equipment and in the amount of yeast pitched are the main things I've found.  Keep in mind that not everything about commercial brewing translates to homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T18:49:05.190" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4456" CreationDate="2011-06-11T19:19:50.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coopers is a nice brew - I used to drink it when I was in Melbourne. However, the tradition then was to roll the bottle to stir up the sediment and drink it. I could never taste the difference. However, I wouldn't advise that with your homebrew - it might taste a bit yeasty/bitter. Probably best to leave it in the bottom of your bottle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T19:19:50.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1270" CreationDate="2011-06-11T20:43:12.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pipelining&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pipelining&lt;/a&gt; of course helps any sequential process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people mash too long.  We don't really need to mash for &quot;one hour&quot;; we need to mash until the starches are converted to sugar.  With modern day highly-modified malts and quality control, this might be occurring in as little as 20 or 30 minutes; use an iodine test to see if conversion is complete early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can usually skip any mash-out step (raising the mash temp from ~150 to ~170) with minimal impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, start firing the kettle as soon as some runnings are introduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're batch sparging, you can drain your mash and sparge basically as fast as possible; you don't really need to have a limited flow-rate, as with fly-sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooling is a function of the differential in temperature, so adding a pre-chiller to your cooling water can help.  I have a ~10g tub of water with a sump-pump driving it through my immersion cooler.  The first couple of gallons of super-hot water get dumped, and once things get down to ~100 °F I'll add ice to the cooling water; that'll drop the temp right quick.  Keeping the wort moving while cooling (either via stirring or with a pump or whatever) will help tremendously, as well.  Of course, nothing's going to beat a proper plater chiller. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T20:43:12.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4483" CreationDate="2011-06-12T05:47:44.843" Score="8" ViewCount="12900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just gone to rack &amp;amp; bottle a witbier that has been in primary for about 5 weeks and noticed this white gunk floating on top of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look too healthy, what is it?  Is it safe?  I'm hoping it's just some undisolved dry wheat extract or dry krausen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r7wOo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: After bottling / kegging the brew tasted &amp;amp; smelt fine - great in fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T11:38:12.577" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T17:23:33.657" Title="What is this white stuff on the surface of my beer?" Tags="|beer|contamination|krausen|wheat|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4470" CreationDate="2011-06-12T14:09:45.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its impossible to tell what it is per se from a photo unless someone has had the same thing happen to them, even then...&#xA;But I had something similar to this and I think it was lipids (fats) on the surface.  The only place that would have come from in any great quantity would be the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Five weeks in primary may be the culprit if it wasn't under great temp control and you also didn't have supremely healthy yeast to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lipid thing is just a guess though, based on some practical experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say its safe.  No reason to think its not safe.  It might taste fine it might taste funny.  There's only one way to find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T14:09:45.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4456" CreationDate="2011-06-12T15:11:17.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you plan on re-using the bottles you might want to spray out the sediment after you poor the beer in the glass. This will get the gunk out of there before it hardens and save you some work later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastEditorUserId="1737" LastEditDate="2011-11-03T20:34:21.323" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T20:34:21.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-12T15:15:52.297" Score="2" ViewCount="2838" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone ever tried to make a beer like Linenkugels Summer Shandy? Its a beer brewed with lemonade... and very tasty on a hot day!! Any suggestions on how it might be made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T02:20:48.993" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T13:56:34.587" Title="Summer Shandy, anyone ever made it?" Tags="|beer|clone-recipe|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4473" CreationDate="2011-06-12T16:24:34.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I recall, it tastes a bit like someone dumped a bunch of Countrytime Lemonade mix into a light lager or a kolsch.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably do better by brewing your own lemonade with fresh lemons and adding that to the beer.   Just remember to monitor the pH; most yeast don't like the conditions below about 3.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T16:24:34.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3858" CreationDate="2011-06-12T16:55:09.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's how I do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brew dry still cider, mix it with fresh or frozen apple juice and some sugar so it's just a little sweeter than you'd like, add yeast (baker's will do fine here), mix thoroughly and decant into champagne bottles. Leave them in a warm place to carbonate for a couple of days, refrigerate and drink it as soon as possible. If you leave the cider for too long, it will probably explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to store the cider for longer than a week, you'll need to pasteurise it. I've heard this can be done in the bottle by heating it to 70 degrees C in a water bath or in the dishwasher but have yet to try this myself. Pasteurisation in the bottle will maintain the level of carbonation (there's nowhere for the gas to escape) and it's used to treat fruit juice commercially so shouldn't alter the flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to pasteurise then the only way is to only bottle as much as you need. The dry cider should keep forever under the right conditions and the same is true for frozen apple juice. Freezing is an excellent way to preserve juice from the previous year and doesn't alter the flavour at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to completely ferment the cider fully in a cold garage over the winter and don't use it until the following spring because i find it tastes better. I use naturally occurring yeasts for the initial fermentation and don't use sulphites and have never had a problem. The baker's yeast is just to carbonate it in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1459" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T16:55:09.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4473" CreationDate="2011-06-12T20:28:11.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried that one, but traditionally I believe shandy is a mix of beer and lemon lime soda.  i don't believe the lemon is usually fermented at all, although that may be how they do it with the beer you mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T20:28:11.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-12T23:24:57.357" Score="11" ViewCount="9614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing some experiments with ginger beer (this is a alcoholic beer, not a soda). I'm use brown sugar as the sugar source for now, but may experiment with other sugars including malt as I go along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just using a nottingham dry brewers yeast to start, but I'd like to experiment with some different yeasts and see what tastes good. Any ideas of what kind of yeast would be good? I was thinking to try something belgian to get some fruitiness in there? but I'm wondering if anyone out there has some ideas on yeast that might be interesting and why!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll report back on how it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="296" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T00:27:35.560" LastActivityDate="2018-02-25T19:59:54.933" Title="Choosing a yeast for ginger beer" Tags="|beer|yeast|ginger|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4478" CreationDate="2011-06-12T23:47:44.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a Ginger ESB using Wyeast 1968 that turned out quite tasty.   It's got some nice fruity esters and flocculates quite nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T23:47:44.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4481" CreationDate="2011-06-13T08:13:03.517" Score="7" ViewCount="2266" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local health food store sells various types of grain, including barley, which are labelled &quot;unprocessed&quot;.  So my question is - can I malt this barley and use this in my homebrew? How does one malt barley?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the store has rye and wheat. Can I malt these grains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, so has anyone here actually made an all-grain brew with home-malted barley?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T00:27:22.003" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T00:27:22.003" Title="How do you malt your own barley?" Tags="|beer|malt|grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4480" CreationDate="2011-06-13T11:49:10.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, soak the barley until it starts to sprout. When you malt, you are letting the seed (grain) start to germinate, so it produces enzymes and starts converting its starches into sugars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a pretty detailed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bodensatz.com/upage/index.php?page=kiwibrewer_malting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how-to article by Dan Carol&lt;/a&gt; that has been around for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2138" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T11:49:10.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3858" CreationDate="2011-06-13T12:11:21.377" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make a &quot;graff&quot; which is a malted cider. Get 2lb of dry light malt extract,  boil it with an ounce of hops for 30 minutes max in about a gal of water. Pour 3-4 gal of generic apple juice (preservative free ideally) into a carboy, pour the hot wort on top. When it's cooled down a bit, pour in a packet of ale yeast like US-05.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottle it after 3-4 weeks on primary, no need for secondary. After aging in the bottles for about 3-4 weeks, you'll have a delicious cider that has a &quot;sweet&quot; taste (the ale yeast won't ferment out all the sugars from the malt extract - mine stopped at 1.010)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a batch in January and by St. Patrick's Day it was totally ready and people drank the crap outa it. Good stuff. You don't get a &quot;beer&quot; taste from it at all, it really just makes the cider sweet, not so boozy, and ready to drink MUUUCH quicker than straight appelwine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T12:11:21.377" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4470" CreationDate="2011-06-13T12:15:29.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like normal Wit yeast byproducts to me. Wit yeast is a weird one anyway, imho. Does it smell like vinegar at all? A Wit should taste a little tangy, but you just need to verify that it's not infected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend bottling now, but start checking the bottles for over-carbonation starting in about a week, and if you start getting gushers, then you might need to chuck the whole batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T12:15:29.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4480" CreationDate="2011-06-13T12:20:56.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Malting is a simple process, theoretically, but getting it right can be tricky.  I'm not speaking from experience; I've never tried it, but I have read about it.  It's a topic that probably can't be fully answered in a single post here, but I can point you to a source of more information.  There's an inexpensive book you might want to pick up: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1580170102&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Homebrewer's Garden: How to Easily Grow, Prepare, and Use Your Own Hops, Malts, Brewing Herbs&lt;/a&gt;.  I picked up this book to help with growing hops, but it has a lot of good getting-started information for growing and malting your own barley and other grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not associated with the book or amazon, I'm just providing a link for reference.  Feel free to buy it or not buy it from any vendor you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T12:20:56.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4411" CreationDate="2011-06-13T13:19:13.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a Belgian Dark ale and was comparing notes with another fellow brewer who brewed a Duvell clone. We compared each others beers and they were nearly identical in taste. What's interesting about that is how different our beers were as far as the grain bill was concerned. Mine had a lot of two row base malts but also a lot of specialty grains (Special B, Biscuit, Wheat, Crystal 60, etc.) but his was nothing but Marris Otter two row. The major thing that made them so similar was the yeast. Both of us used Belgian yeast (I don't know what he used, but I used Wyeast 1214). The yeast makes all the difference. Belgian yeast will add banana, cloves, and other spice flavors (or esters) to the beer. To many, this is the defining characteristic of a Belgian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like sweeter beers you don't need the sugar. A pound of table sugar will dry the beer out and offset the high malt content in most Belgian recipes. Belgian yeasts won't ferment all the malt sugar in the wort (I haven't gotten below 1.010 with Belgian yeasts) so the table sugar is there just so the beer isn't overly sweet. It sounds a bit contradictory, but adding the table sugar will make the beer dryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1463" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T13:19:13.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4487" CreationDate="2011-06-13T13:20:33.850" Score="4" ViewCount="2193" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have ay DME on hand is it ok to use dextrose as the sugar in a yeast starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2011-06-13T22:16:07.487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T22:38:48.190" Title="Can you use dextrose in a yeast starter?" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4486" CreationDate="2011-06-13T14:23:33.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast will grow and multiply in dextrose.  Supposedly, though, while they grow up in the dextrose they begin to down-regulate the genes required for fermentation of maltose.  So when you pitch them into the maltose rich wort, they struggle a bit before fermentation really takes off.  How big of an impact it has on the final beer is hard to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, dextrose is a nutrient poor medium.  DME is more than just a sugar source.  It has nitrogen and other trace elements as well.  So some yeast energizer would be needed as well in dextrose to hope to get much quality growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an pinch without DME, some people have had luck purchasing a couple bottles of Malta-Goya from the local supermarket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2011-06-13T22:38:48.190" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T22:38:48.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4488" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-13T14:30:00.367" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-06-13T14:30:00.367" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T14:30:00.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4489" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-13T14:30:00.367" Score="0" Body="Yeast starters are small worts of 1L or more that contain no hops.  The primary purpose is to awaken and grown the yeast supplied in a vial or smack-pack.  Typical starter wort is around or under 1.040 in gravity." OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-06-13T14:30:00.367" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T14:30:00.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4473" CreationDate="2011-06-13T16:25:13.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a German beer and mix with soda or juice (Like lemonade).  You now have a radler aka shandy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shandy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shandy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enjoy mixing a Hefeweizen and lemonade.  Half and half is a good place to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T16:25:13.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4494" CreationDate="2011-06-14T02:01:48.807" Score="8" ViewCount="2311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a Belgian Wit extract kit.  Bottle conditioned with 5 oz of priming sugar.  I'm pretty happy with the taste.  With a medium speed pour into a Pilsner glass, the beer develops a rather thick,  probably three fingers tall head.  It slowly fades but a small head remains throughout.  Good lacing continues as well.  I can see a lot of continuous streams from random nucleation sites in the glass.  It looks beautiful IMHO.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that it doesn't taste very carbonated.  Some go as far to say that it tastes flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas why it develops a great head but still tastes flat?  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="921" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T23:58:03.730" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T17:08:29.500" Title="Three-finger head but tastes flat?" Tags="|beer|carbonation|belgian-white|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4492" CreationDate="2011-06-14T02:09:52.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a cleaner glass.  Sounds like most of the carbonation is coming out of solution during the pour.  Give your glass a rinse with super hot water.  A quick rinse with cool water to cool the glass off (hot glass will not help with carbonation), but don't worry about chilling the glass much.  Don't bother drying the glass.  Then pour your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Super clean glassware is vital.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least that's my guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T02:09:52.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4492" CreationDate="2011-06-14T12:23:30.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could just be under-carbonated. Wit beer, when done properly, has a gorgeous, thick head from all that protein in the wheat, regardless of how carbonated the bottles are. How long has the beer been bottled? Maybe give it another week or two, and make sure you pour it slowly. Did the beer dry out properly? A wit should be lower than 1.014 or so, I think. Under attenuation could result in a sweeter(sorta) beer, which might be perceived as less &quot;sharp&quot; or carbonated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T12:23:30.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4504" CreationDate="2011-06-15T15:41:39.947" Score="6" ViewCount="981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to make more alcoholic ginger beer than i can bottle. Im tempted to buy a few JerryCans and use them instead of bottles. Do you think they would withstand the pressure? Has anyone else had any experience with bottling in plastic? Also tempted to get a few brown bottles but I'm also unsure of their ability to hold the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ampulla.co.uk/AMBER-PET-BOTTLES/c-1-142/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ampulla.co.uk/AMBER-PET-BOTTLES/c-1-142/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ampulla.co.uk/JERRICANS-1L---5L/5Litre-Natural-Jerrycan-&amp;amp;-38mm-White-TE-Cap/p-136-426/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ampulla.co.uk/JERRICANS-1L---5L/5Litre-Natural-Jerrycan-&amp;amp;-38mm-White-TE-Cap/p-136-426/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T00:05:59.900" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T05:47:22.570" Title="Bottling in Jerry Cans" Tags="|bottling|plastic|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4478" CreationDate="2011-06-15T15:42:43.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used Champagne yeast. Nice and fizzy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T15:42:43.500" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4500" CreationDate="2011-06-15T16:07:59.547" Score="7" ViewCount="2173" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so I was in the health food shop (again) and couldn't find any corn sugar. However, on a whim I bought some fructose. I am thinking of using it for priming the English ale I have pencilled in to start tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are: can I use fructose for priming? And, if so, can I treat it as though it were corn sugar in my carbonation calculations (I am looking at about 1.8 volumes carbonation which seems ballpark for this style)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-06-30T14:54:12.610" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T00:20:31.363" Title="Can I use fructose as a priming sugar and how much should I use?" Tags="|carbonation|priming|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4495" CreationDate="2011-06-15T16:20:20.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The P.E.T. bottles you have shown may work although I have never seen them before. I really can't say as far as the jerrycans but you have to remember the fact that they are not going to be light protected. Also you would have to want to drink a lot of ginger beer in one sitting to use a 5 liter bottle. &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; I would recommend taking a look at these bottles &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrbeer.com/product-exec/product_id/47/nm/1_Liter_Deluxe_Bottling_System_Qty_8_1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mrbeer.com/product-exec/product_id/47/nm/1_Liter_Deluxe_Bottling_System_Qty_8_1&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I have used them before with great success and the best part is that you know they are meant for beer, and they are a pretty convenient size at 1 liter. I just don't know if you would have an issue getting them in the UK. &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; Just tried to order some to the UK and it unfortunately looks like they don't ship there. I did have a lot of luck using Goolge to search for 1 liter P.E.T. beer bottles in the UK and there are many available, especially if you are not concerned about having clear ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastEditorUserId="913" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T16:25:31.450" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T16:25:31.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4497" CreationDate="2011-06-15T16:28:02.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine to use it as sugar, its the stuff you get in honey and that is fine to ferment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly how much to use is hard. I would guess it would be about 1 fuctose : 1.5 standard suggar as there is more energy per gram in fuctose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T00:10:29.883" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T00:10:29.883" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4497" CreationDate="2011-06-15T17:49:26.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fructose is fully fermentable.  Assuming the fructose is completely dry, containing no moisture - as is the case with granulated table sugar, which is also fully fermentable - then you can use it in the same quantity as you would table sugar (sucrose).  In fact, save your money; use table sugar for priming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T17:49:26.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4501" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5405" CreationDate="2011-06-15T18:07:54.623" Score="3" ViewCount="2031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to upgrade to cornelius kegs and have located a retailer that will sell the public &quot;pub gas&quot; in 6.35Kg cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the UK regulations for transporting this in my car?&#xA;Do I need to purchase one of the green diamond, compressed gas, warning labels to stick on my car?  These are usually 10cm x 10 cm - is this the minimum permitted size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen 3 wording varieties of the green diamonds warning labels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;compressed gas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non-flammable compressed gas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non-flammable non-toxic compressed gas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are all of these within the regulations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, being a newcomer to transporting gas, what is the safest way to transport it in a standard saloon type car (e.g. the boot, back seat, upright in the passenger seat, doesn't matter)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T08:38:21.820" Title="What are the UK regulations for transporting compressed CO2?" Tags="|co2|transport|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4495" CreationDate="2011-06-15T19:13:48.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't risk carbonating in the JerryCan.  I've seen Gatorade bottles explode under pressure and it's not fun.  I would stay away from anything that's not made to handle the pressure.  I would even be hesitant to use the linked PET bottles unless they say somewhere that they're rated for pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my early days I would use 2-liter soda bottles when I ran out of glass ones.  I would just wrap them in foil to protect them from the light.  They worked fine, although I'm sure I got some off flavors from the Coke that was in it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T15:58:38.167" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T15:58:38.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4501" CreationDate="2011-06-15T19:30:50.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not entirely sure on the UK regulations, but in general, I think those are intended for commercial transportation of compressed gases.  I did find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bcga.co.uk/preview/publications/L12005.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; which, bear in mind, is a few years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that in the US people drive around with compressed air (SCUBA shops) and compressed oxygen (people on oxygen) without any warning signs on their cars, and those are a lot more dangerous than CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for safe transport, just make sure it's not rolling around and that the neck is clear from any danger.  For scuba I use something like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.divers-supply.com/Tank-Rack-Foam-Double-2-P2306.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;foam tank rack&lt;/a&gt;.  You could easily get some foam and cut one for your tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T19:38:48.443" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T19:38:48.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4495" CreationDate="2011-06-16T00:08:38.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd give the the PET a chance with just a few.  Maybe even add a little extra sugar to a couple of those to see if they can take more pressure than normal just as a back up assurance should you end up with a contaminated batch at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to risk a batch I'd say the same thing for the jerry can.  But its a big volume once you open it you start losing carbonation. And I am not sure how well the seal under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T00:08:38.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4446" CreationDate="2011-06-16T03:22:22.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With things like cubes and chips, I've found that it's best to just throw them into your BBQ right before you put the meat on after they've been used in your beer.  If you think about it, you've conditioned them with wine or bourbon prior to use in your beer.  There's not a lot of surface area there, so they're probably mostly spent by the time they've rested in your beer for an additional month or so.  They're inexpensive and you can buy them in bulk from places that sell adjuncts to wineries, like xtraoak.com , so why not start fresh each time.  You want the best possible beer, right?  Right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barrels can be re-used quite often, depending on the style of beer you're brewing.  For example, I turn French Oak barrels that I've used for Chardonnay and Pinot into secondary fermentors for my IPAs, and those can be re-used several times.  I haven't hit the end of the line with any yet, though you might want to supplement with staves on older barrels-- use your nose and tastebuds to determine that one.  If you want an lot of oak influence in your beer, then you want to go with a newer barrel.  But keep in mind what was in it before-- a bourbon barrel that held bourbon for a year will extract more tannin from the oak than a 14% chardonnay over the same period.  One thing I've found is that really new barrels are overpowering for most beers, unless you just want smokey oak notes throughout.  It can come across as skunky or just off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T03:22:22.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1583" CreationDate="2011-06-16T03:36:57.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering my own question a year later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've achieved this successfully by culturing a native wine yeast and then building it up via making multiple starters with DME:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash up some ripe wine grapes really well and then press off the juice.  Say 5 gallons or so.  By ripe, I mean 24 brix or so (~1.100 SG).  Check the pH.  If it's under 3.8, your safe, otherwise add tartaric acid until your pH is between 3.2 and 3.8.  Put the juice in some kind of open container, with cheesecloth over it to keep the flies out.  Leave the container at room temperature for a week or so.  It will ferment on its own.  Drop a pinch of Fermaid K in there at the beginning of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's done fermenting, pour the wine off the lees (yeast sediment).  Now cook up some DME in a quart or two of water.  Cool it to 70ºF/21ºC and pitch your new lees into it.  Cover the sanitized container with foil or an airlock and let 'er rip.  You may need to repeat this a couple of times if your first starter has a funky wine color you don't want in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resulting starter is a native yeast starter you can safely use in your beer.  The low pH of wine grapes + the high alcohol usually prevents the growth of the worst of the spoilage bacteria.  You might get some brett in there though... depending on what lurks in your vineyard or your house or wherever you let the native yeast rip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastEditorUserId="3022" LastEditDate="2013-01-21T23:53:33.990" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T23:53:33.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4470" CreationDate="2011-06-16T03:56:04.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It won't hurt you if there's any amount of alcohol in there.  Smell it and taste it after primary.  If both pass inspection, carry on.  I forget the organism's name, but this happens in wine too sometimes.  It's not ideal, but it (most likely) won't cause you to unexpectedly soil yourself a few hours after drinking it... so it's no big deal in terms of the big picture if this is just homebrew and not for commercial sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, leave less headspace in your secondary fermentor and resist the temptation to ever open it up.  You want to keep oxygen off the surface, leave it protected by the CO2 blanket that the fermentation emits.  O2 will foster the growth of scum like that and will degrade your hooch.  CO2 will restrict the growth of oddities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T03:56:04.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4465" CreationDate="2011-06-16T04:09:18.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question.  Hopwise is partially right about the higher temps speeding primary up, but most pro brewers control temp with glycol.  Bottom line and beer style is probably the answer to your question.  Some beers may not need a longer secondary or extra time to settle out, especially if things are getting run through a filter.  So a vigorous, nutrient-rich primary followed by filtration, a spell in the brite tank and some gassing would be the method for some.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't speak for other brewers, but I see larger batches of Belgian and American ales no differently than small ones-- a week in primary (plus or minus) and then a secondary that fits the style-- anywhere from 2 weeks to a year.  Aroma, flavor, clarity and terminal gravity indicate when it's time to keg or bottle.  The nose knows!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T04:09:18.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3223" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:04:24.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've come to use Weyerman Pale Malt as the base of a lot of my beers, and I'm happy with it. As Chris mentions, if you use a plain Pale malt as the base, then there are some beer styles that will come across as a little one-dimensional, but I'll add that you can do things like kettle caramelization, decoctions or oven toasting to get more flavor out of the base malt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you know the flavor of your base malt, then it makes experimenting with specialty malts much more effective, since you can pick out the new flavor much easier. For example, I've got an experimental brown ale fermenting now that's Weyerman Pale as a base with a pound of a new malt, &quot;CaraBrown&quot; thrown in because I want to know what this new malt brings to the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the base malts I've used and their flavor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weyerman Pale: good base for most&#xA;ales, neutral malt flavor, the US-05 of malts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vienna: slightly&#xA;toasty/nutty, very under-appreciated&#xA;as a base malt, IMHO &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pilsner: clean,&#xA;sweet, hay-like (in a good way).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marris Otter: malty, slightly biscuity, can be too rich for some styles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, wheat malt can be used as 100% of the base, but be careful of stuck sparges!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some that I haven't used by themselves as 100% of the base, but feel like I know enough to make a guess as to their final character:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Munich: malty, rich, good for more than just German beer (100% munich American IPAs are great)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mild Malt: Similiar to 2-Row Pale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Golden Promise: like Marris Otter in its richness, but more &quot;sweet&quot; than &quot;toasty&quot;. Classic Scottish malt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T13:04:24.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4512" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:23:07.463" Score="10" ViewCount="1115" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to save some cash I'm thinking of buying some 2nd hand [19L/5G] kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When visiting a seller, what kind of inspection should I do to ensure that the kegs will last?  Are there any tell-tale signs that will show how far through its life it will be? (is there even a lifespan on a keg?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of them look pretty beat up on the outside but it makes sense that it's the inside that counts.  I'm also wary of buying something that could be mistreated but has a nice lick of paint on the exterior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T16:58:37.267" Title="What to look for in second-hand kegs?" Tags="|kegging|keg|shopping|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4510" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:55:43.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the keg is pressurized and doesn't seem to leak, that should be a good enough indication I think. Check that gas is released when the middle of the ports is depressed, and that the safety valve works, and you should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T13:55:43.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4510" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:35:20.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things I look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any sign the lid is bent or uneven. Also check the opening in which the lid sits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the posts bent? One keg I bought has a out post that lists off to one side, makes it kind of a pain to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it hold pressure? My LHBS pressurizes the kegs out for sale, so I can just test the release valve to see if the pressure has held.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it the same style as my other kegs? This is more of a personal thing. Different style kegs can require different o-rings, parts, etc. I try to avoid confusion by only getting kegs that are the same style.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the place you're getting kegs from doesn't sell them pressurized, you could test the pressure by bringing a co2 tank and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/bleeder-valve.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bleeder valve&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T14:35:20.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4510" CreationDate="2011-06-16T15:24:29.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look inside for welds as well. This can indicate if keg was ever punctured. I know this seems rare, but a friend of mine just ran into this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1062" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T15:24:29.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4501" CreationDate="2011-06-16T17:39:31.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know the exact answer to your question, a quick google shows plenty of PDF files which might contain your answer. The easiest option is to just phone the HSE and enquire. I have another hobby that requires the transporting of explosives, but we are not required to put a warning sticker on the car, but we do need to get a POMSTER from the HSE to legally transport them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is this legislation, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2009/1348/contents/made&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Carriage of Dangerous Goods and Use of Transportable Pressure Equipment Regulations 2009&lt;/a&gt;, it's most likely directed at businesses though. It maybe that you can get away with nothing as you're doing it for personal use, or you may need to conform. Either way, I'd phone the HSE to find out for definite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I should also add that my other hobby can entail the use of NO2 and O2, I can't remember ever having seen a warning sticker on the car that brought the cylinders with them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T17:39:31.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4510" CreationDate="2011-06-16T22:56:32.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to check that the in and out posts are indeed in and out posts.  You can sometimes tell by the shape of the base-nut, but not always.  It takes a trained eye to see the differences.  You could always bring a spare bev and gas disconnect to help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the pressure via the relief valve in the center.&#xA;I like to lightly press down with my finger nail on the poppets themselves to be sure they are springing and seat back in the hole correctly. (Not a deal breaker, as if they are a little dirty maybe they won't seal back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing to look at is the welds.  There is one long one down the side, and a couple around the circumference at the top and base.  Just look to be sure they are silver like the rest of the keg and not rusty.  Make sure there isn't a significant amount of grinding on the welds in places, as it indicated maybe a quick welding repair, and grinding out.  The keg may still hold pressure, but it could be a cruddy job on the inside.  Lastly look inside the kegs if possible to see if the welds look good too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats what I do when picking up kegs.&#xA;Or I negotiate for a cheaper price for an as is purchase where I don't &quot;tear&quot; down the guys kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T22:56:32.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4495" CreationDate="2011-06-17T05:47:22.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't think they're &quot;food grade&quot;.  I wouldn't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Canada, pop comes in 2-litre platic bottles.  I've bottled in them lots of times.  If you have something like that in the UK, it would probably be a lot cheaper than buying jerry cans, even if you dump out the pop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T05:47:22.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4510" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:13:30.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may seem obvious, but I've been told to ask for new rubber or just have the understanding that seals/o-rings will need to be replaced. It's normally not a big deal since they're so cheap relative to the cost of a keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1470" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:13:30.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2011-06-18T16:57:36.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing ales in Madrid can be a challenge. Winters are cold (down to -10C/14F) and summers are hot (touching 40C/104F in August). I have found that when the room temperature is at or below ~25C/77F I can keep the carboy cool (20 litres) (as others have mentioned) by wrapping it in towels and putting the whole setup in a large container of water. The  evaporation works well since this is a very dry climate, and  I can get down to ~20C or lower which is fine for my purposes. Above this I have to put on the AC in the smallest room in the house. I only have to do this on rare occasions since we can usually can keep the room temperature OK with blinds/ventilation at the appropriate times of the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In winter, we have the central heating on and I can always turn it down/off in the brew room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't started doing lagers yet - my next project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T16:57:36.997" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-18T16:57:36.997" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4465" CreationDate="2011-06-18T18:11:19.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question +1. Do we really take longer to ferment our beer? It may seem that way but is it really that different?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my thoughts:&#xA;The volumes brewed commercially generate far more heat than a homebrew bucket and, inspite of cooling, there must be many more currents self-rousing the beer. Maybe attenuation is faster in the exponential phase of fermentation(can anyone verify?). Commercial brewers in the UK leave their beer in the FVs for 3-5 days then transfer to conditioning tanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conditioning phase is also referred to as the stationary phase of fermentation when the yeast reabsorbs much of the diacetyl and acetaldehyde produced earlier. For UK ale, the slow temperature drop, over a few days, from 21 to 10 degrees with a period of rest at 14 degrees, allows the yeast to 're-use' diacetyl. So, in all, they are probably looking at times of around 7 - 8 days. Not that disimilar to a homebrew fermentation - perhaps with the exception of your 14 day 'lazy' brew. It's just that we don't tend to rack off so early and probably the stationary phase happens in the fermentation bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was mention of the amount of yeast pitched. I don't think this is used to speed up fermentation, though I agree that not everything commercial translates to homebrewing. I looked into pitching rates and according to Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff (Yeast, The practical guide to beer fermentation pp 121), both over- and under-pitching &quot;...result in a less than ideal fermentation with high levels of diacetyl, acetaldehyde, and low attenuation. Too high a pitching rate can also result in low or unexpected esters, yeast autolysis flavors, and poor head retention.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T18:11:19.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-18T18:37:42.727" Score="1" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a place where I can buy Strongbow Cider in Northern Virginia, preferably near Washington D.C.  Does anyone know of a distributor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1475" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T18:37:42.727" Title="Where can I buy a keg of Strongbow Cider in Virginia (near DC)?" Tags="|cider|keg|buying|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-06-20T16:02:34.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-19T00:50:36.043" Score="2" ViewCount="2004" Body="&lt;p&gt;My second batch of beer will be a basic wheat beer and I will rack half with peach puree and half without to see the difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for suggestions of other additives for wheat beer. People use fruit based additives like lemon peel or orange peel, but what about spices like cinnamon? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What qualities make for a good wheat beer additive? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-23T23:20:04.743" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T13:50:02.743" Title="What makes an addition good for a basic wheat beer?" Tags="|beer|additives|wheat-beer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4510" CreationDate="2011-06-20T16:58:37.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take as much of the keg apart as you possibly can. You can use wrenches to get the in and out valves off.  You need to make sure the popets underneath the valves are springy and not all gunked up.  There will also be an o-ring underneath the &quot;out&quot; valve around the dip tube. CHECK THIS O-RING.  If it is all gunked up or degraded, then you will need to replace it, but that could be a big source of leaks for the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the lid as the others have said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1478" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T16:58:37.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4521" CreationDate="2011-06-20T17:11:25.000" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No offense, but try making the wheat beer without the peaches first.  If this is your second batch there is a pretty high probability there are parts of your brewing process that can be optimized.  Tossing peaches in there may just hide or create new problems so you won't really be able to tell whats wrong and how to fix it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I wouldn't worry too much about additives, you want the peaches to shine.  Try something like the WLP351 Bavarian Weizen Yeast, I think that's the Schneider brewery yeast, and the clovey flavor of that would work well with peaches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1478" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T17:11:25.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="848" CreationDate="2011-06-21T10:09:13.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honney. Adds sweetness as well as complexity to the finished brew. You have to be carefull to boil it for a while though. Found funny mold like stuff floating in one of my first brews (after drinking half of it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T10:09:13.717" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-21T10:09:13.717" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4521" CreationDate="2011-06-21T13:55:51.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep half of your beer free from additives.  The best part about trying something new is learning what it adds, so you want to have a good baseline to compare against.  I would also suggest only adding one new thing at a time to be able to pick out what that ingredient does.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fully appreciate the excitement of adding things and experimenting, I usually try to do something different with 5 gallons of each of my 10 gallon brews.  I'd highly recommend trying a batch with nothing different besides the yeast, and after tasting Jester King's Drink'in the sunbelt this weekend, I would recommend trying a hoppy wheat (I certainly will be soon.)  They used Amarillo apparently, in addition to Falconer's Flight and Magnum, none of which have ever touched a wheat of mine before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T13:55:51.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4527" CreationDate="2011-06-21T20:29:05.033" Score="4" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on my fourth batch of IPA from a &quot;tried &amp;amp; true&quot; recipe from a local brewshop.  On the first three, I transferred from Primary to Secondary after the bubbles got to more than 1 minute intervals, which always happened by 7-8 days.  This batch though is now on day 16 and I'm still at a 45-50 second interval.  Also this batch took a good day to get up to speed with the fermentation -- slower than usual.  The only environmental difference that I can think of is that it's warmer now than the previous batches, but not substantially so.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I really worry? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="801" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T13:18:42.307" Title="Primary taking far longer to settle down than usual - should I worry?" Tags="|ipa|primary|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4526" CreationDate="2011-06-21T20:40:37.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never counted bubbles - I presume you are referring to an airlock. Would you not be better using a hydrometer to measure the gravity to determine whether it is the right time to transfer to secondary? Perhaps a few degrees above your predicted final gravity. Say, 1012 - 1014. This might be a bit more empirical than bubbles, for as you rightly say, ambient conditions will affect this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am suspecting that you don't want to let in air if you measure the gravity. Is this the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T20:40:37.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4529" CreationDate="2011-06-21T22:07:11.547" Score="14" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am studying to become a BJCP judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading through &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/styles04/Category2.php#style2A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Style 2a German Pilsner&lt;/a&gt; and saw something in the flavor profile that I didn't quite understand thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Moderate to moderately-low yet &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;well attenuated maltiness&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, although some grainy flavors and slight malt sweetness are acceptable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-23T23:19:59.160" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T23:19:59.160" Title="What is &quot;well attenuated maltiness&quot;?" Tags="|beer|flavor|bjcp|pilsner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4528" CreationDate="2011-06-21T23:12:10.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like malty flavor, without the sweetness of, say, a scottish beer.   A dry maltiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T23:12:10.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4526" CreationDate="2011-06-21T23:33:04.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to take the brew out of primary when it's finished fermenting, otherwise you risk bottle-bombs from the still-fermenting beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can safely tell when fermentation is finished by taking hydrometer readings daily; when the readings are constant for 2 days, you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes fermentation can 'pause' due to environmental factors so you don't want to rely on the airlock bubbles.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3151/no-bubbles-in-the-airlock-should-i-still-bottle-the-brew&quot;&gt;I have a fermenter that never bubbles&lt;/a&gt; (probably a busted seal somewhere) &amp;amp; always have to use the hydrometer technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T23:33:04.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4528" CreationDate="2011-06-22T13:09:24.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read it as being fermented dry enough so that its crisp like you'd expect that style to be.  But in-order to retain a maltiness while drying the beer out its becomes a matter of choosing great ingredients.  This is where using the best Continental Pilsner malt available comes into play.  Great german pilsner is about a near perfect fermentation to let the work of the maltster really shine through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T13:09:24.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4526" CreationDate="2011-06-22T13:18:42.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watching airlock bubbles is not the best way to judge fermentation. That's repeating from other answers, but I'll continue by adding something you're going to see more and more of as you read &quot;current&quot; thought on homebrewing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's (generally) no need to secondary. You should be able to leave beer on the yeast for several months before it begins to get any off tastes, and barring an addition of fruit or aging a beer for 6 months in a secondary vessel (for instance) or some other reason, there's just no real need to rack to secondary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days most folks would tell you that the risk of infection is too high to justify moving the beer to secondary. This would certainly remain true for a regular IPA - it's not going to sit on that yeast for 3-4 months. If it needs dry hopping, that can be done in primary as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rest easy sir, take gravity readings after 2-3 weeks until they're stable, then bottle (or keg). Wait until it's properly carbed... then drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T13:18:42.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4470" CreationDate="2011-06-22T15:11:14.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a film yeast or some other infection but you'd do best to RDWHAHB if the beer tastes OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T15:11:14.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4465" CreationDate="2011-06-22T15:13:03.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a home brewer you don't have any commercial pressure to get the beer out the door and making money for you. So let it rest as long as it needs to. If you're busy doing other stuff, an extra week won't harm it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why we home-brew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T15:13:03.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4539" CreationDate="2011-06-22T16:46:28.637" Score="11" ViewCount="11038" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I put a batch of wine going (very simple setup - a plastic bucket with a sealed lid and a cork in the top for a plastic airlock). This morning, I can tell the sugar has settled to the bottom (you can feel and hear it swishing around the bottom if you pick it up and move it a little). Should I open the sealed lid to stir it all up again, or leave it alone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1480" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-22T20:11:54.783" LastActivityDate="2020-02-15T06:49:02.757" Title="Is it safe to open the lid of a fermentation container to stir the yeast and sugar?" Tags="|wine|fermenter|sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4536" CreationDate="2011-06-22T16:51:20.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would let it sit for now. Sugar tends to dissolve eventually and yeast are crafty, so they will find the sugar at the bottom and eat it, regardless of whether it has dissolved, although your initial gravity readings may have been off if the sugar was not dissolved when you took them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to be really careful right now to avoid infection since there is no alcohol yet to prevent it. If you are really concerned, the most I would do is shake or swirl the bucket to stir up the sugar and try to dissolve it that way, but I wouldn't recommend opening it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastEditorUserId="678" LastEditDate="2011-06-22T17:03:17.887" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T17:03:17.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4541" CreationDate="2011-06-22T17:03:49.853" Score="10" ViewCount="9435" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably a really dumb question, but is it bad to shake or swirl the container my wine is in to encourage the release of CO2? I accidentally found out that jarring the container results in tons of air bubbles coming out of the airlock. Is this a bad thing to do? Is it a good thing? Will it make fermentation go a little faster? Will it actively harm the process? (I suspect the answer is &quot;Just leave it alone!&quot;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1480" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-22T20:11:40.057" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T03:57:25.890" Title="Will it harm my wine to shake the container?" Tags="|wine|airlock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4536" CreationDate="2011-06-22T17:09:46.667" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can absolutely open the bucket if you feel it's necessary to stir the must.  There is very little chance of contamination if you are diligent in sanitizing everything that will touch the must.  If any air borne particles do get in there won't be enough to get a foot hold and will be overtaken by the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made over 20 meads that I have removed the lid every day for the first 7 days of fermentation to stir and to add nutrients and have never had an infection.  I also do open fermentation where I don't even put a lid on the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there is a difference in being careful and being paranoid.  I was once paranoid myself but with experience and knowledge from others I have moved on to careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T17:09:46.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4538" CreationDate="2011-06-22T17:12:47.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's definitely ok in the initial stages of fermentation, although once a significant amount of dead yeast and trub has settled out, I would avoid it, since shaking it will stir this up and might give your wine some off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T17:12:47.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4538" CreationDate="2011-06-22T17:30:19.987" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stirring of the must during fermentation to off gas CO2 is a technique often used in commercial wine making.  The stirring will not only release the co2 which is toxic to the yeast but it will also add oxygen which is essential for the growth phase.  You can do this until the fermentation is about 50% complete because the yeast will consume the oxygen preventing oxidation.  This process will speed the fermentation process and reduce the production of higher alcohols and common off flavors.  The wine will also need less aging time and can be consumed sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T17:30:19.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4543" CreationDate="2011-06-23T04:46:57.323" Score="3" ViewCount="1921" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of buying &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004WP3ZPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this kegerator on Amazon&lt;/a&gt;, but was wondering if the smaller tank size will make it harder to find a place to fill it. Also, if I'd like a bigger tank at some point will the regulator and tubes still work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T10:49:39.113" Title="Is there a standard size for CO2 tank nozzles?" Tags="|keg|kegerator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4542" CreationDate="2011-06-23T10:49:39.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A CO2 regulator has a standard connector which would fit any size CO2 tank you'd be able to handle at the home level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people start with a standard 5 lb tank.  Its about 6 inches wide, and 1.5 feet tall.  The next size up is a 20lb tank.  Its something like 2 feet tall and 8 inches wide.  Those are the most popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly recommend finding a place that fills tanks before you buy a tank.  Near me they only do exchanges.  SO you pay a one time deposit on the tank, and then its $12 to swap said tank for each &quot;refill&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do find a place that does refills, they'll have no problem filling any size tank, so I wouldn't worry about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T10:49:39.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4545" CreationDate="2011-06-23T21:31:53.740" Score="8" ViewCount="7072" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was buying winemaking yeast and wondered - what exactly would happen if I used the stuff meant for red wines for white or the other way around? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be bad? Would it work at all? Would it just taste suboptimal? Is it that different strains of yeast simply convey flavors that may be more appropriate to one or the other? Adding to my mystification is the fact that some of the packages said they could be used for either white or red wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1480" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T16:06:16.900" Title="What would happen if I used a yeast meant for white wine to brew red wine or vice versa?" Tags="|yeast|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4544" CreationDate="2011-06-23T22:48:20.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Red and white wines are made differently, so there are different factors to consider when deciding on what yeast to use. White wine is basically just fermented grape juice, while red wine is made by fermenting &quot;must&quot; which includes the skins, seeds, and stems of the grapes as well as the juice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically red wine is fermented at a high temperature (85°F), while whites are fermented at lower temperatures (68°F). Thus red wines require a higher heat tolerance for their yeasts to avoid stalled fermentations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taste is also a big factor to consider. For example, white wines typically have more fruity esters, and the choice of yeast determines the level and variety of esters you will get in the final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either yeast will work for fermenting both types of wine, although you do have to consider the yeast's optimal temperature range carefully and not go too far outside of it. A yeast that is classified as red or white generally will impart flavors typical of that style, but I would view it more as a recommendation than a requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T22:48:20.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4547" CreationDate="2011-06-24T18:30:42.377" Score="5" ViewCount="2232" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my second home brew.  I chose &quot;Coopers Mexican Cerveza&quot; with &quot;Muntons Beer Enhancer&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's only day 4 out of 7 weeks but on the second day, the whole bin warmed slightly and there was a lot of bubbling.  The bubbling stopped on day 3 and now there's little action - just a few bubbles in the middle.  It's about 16 degrees centigrade house when the kit said about 17 so this should be ok?  Should I keep the bin shut or can I peak?  I have been peaking every now and again - is this a silly idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you :). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1486" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T00:26:46.247" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T01:21:33.017" Title="Bubbling suddenly stopped - is this a problem?" Tags="|beer|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2011-06-24T19:47:29.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely everything is fine, it is probably just nearing the end of fermentation. Times can vary greatly depending on temperature, dissolved oxygen, pitching rates, etc, but I've commonly had fermentations that only take 2 or 3 days, and generally there is little bubbling after the first week. The increase in activity you saw on the second day was the yeast reaching high krausen (a good sign), when yeast activity is at its highest. By now most of the free sugars have been used up. However there is still yeast activity as the yeast reabsorbs some of the byproducts and cleans up the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned, definitely you can open it up. I would take a gravity reading and see if it is around what you would expect for a final gravity. If it is still high and doesn't change for a few days you can consider repitching but I'm guessing everything is fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastEditorUserId="678" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T20:03:32.773" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T20:03:32.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4550" CreationDate="2011-06-24T20:05:08.690" Score="12" ViewCount="1224" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife asked me what the definition of beer was, and my best response was my understanding of  &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reinheitsgebot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reinheitsgebot&lt;/a&gt; definition (which may or may not be correct).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer contains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Malted Barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This definition however excludes many things that I would also consider beer, for instance, the entire &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style15.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP category 15 - German Wheat and Rye Beer&lt;/a&gt;, nor would it include beers with fruit or coffee beers, or winter ales (with coriander etc...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is a good definition of beer? Is there one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T06:15:38.730" Title="What is a good definition of beer?" Tags="|beer|reinheitsgebot|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4548" CreationDate="2011-06-24T20:21:01.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer is malted grain, hops, water and yeast at is most basic.&#xA;Category 15 used malted wheat or rye... that's german Reinheitsgebot friendly.  Otherwise it wouldn't be GERMAN Wheat and Rye Beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T20:21:01.353" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4548" CreationDate="2011-06-24T20:40:11.290" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The definition of beer is a fairly wide one.  I'll quote from wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Beer] is produced by the brewing and fermentation of starches, mainly derived from cereal grains—most commonly malted barley, although wheat, maize (corn), and rice are widely used. Most beer is flavoured with hops, which add bitterness and act as a natural preservative, though other flavourings such as herbs or fruit may occasionally be included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, mainly, beer is a fermented beverage based on grain.  Hops are optional, and, in fact, there is no record of their use in beers brewed before 822.  Again, from wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What they did not contain was hops, as that was a later addition first mentioned in Europe around 822 by a Carolingian Abbot[24] and again in 1067 by Abbess Hildegard of Bingen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T20:40:11.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4544" CreationDate="2011-06-25T01:20:20.610" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It'll make beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't honestly say what to expect in terms of attenuation, flocculation or even the flavor profile, but it will ferment and you'll have beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guys at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=video&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Basic Brewing Video&lt;/a&gt; did an interesting experiment using bread yeast for a batch of beer and us-05 for a loaf of bread and ended up with good beer and good bread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure that you can tell what the wine yeast will produce without trying them, though.  I imagine that a good part of the 'typical' esters will be thrown out once the yeast are eating wort instead of fruit juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="868" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T01:20:20.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4548" CreationDate="2011-06-25T10:12:54.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started reading a book, 'Brewing' by Dr Ian S Hornsey (Published by the Royal Society of Chemistry). Aside from being a lecturer in Botany and Microbiology, he is a practising brewer. The opening chapter is called &quot;The definition of Brewing&quot;. Not quite what the question asks but I thought this was worth an answer. The chapter begins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;In the broadest sense of the word 'brewing' may be defined as 'The combined processes preparing beverages from the infusion of sound grains that have undergone sprouting, and the subsequent fermentation of the sugary solution produced, by yeast - whereby a proportion of the carbohydrate is converted to ethanol and carbon dioxide.'&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He goes on to say...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The modern connotation of the word would imply 'production of beer', in all its various forms - and this is how the author has interpreted it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to cover all bases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T10:12:54.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4544" CreationDate="2011-06-25T14:19:27.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience (Canada), most (or maybe even &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt;) wine kits, red and white, come with &quot;Champagne&quot; yeast (Lalvin EC-1118 dry yeast).  But maybe you're asking about liquid yeasts, rather than dry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, I think what will happen is that it will make some good wine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T14:19:27.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4548" CreationDate="2011-06-25T17:13:41.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like Dustin's definition. The German &quot;law&quot; is unnecessarily restrictive in my opinion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we talk about &quot;lager&quot; or &quot;ale&quot; we can  get more specific (a beer that has been lagered, or a beer based upon malted barley and warm-fermented), but for beer I'd go with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, mainly, beer is a fermented beverage based on grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T17:13:41.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-25T21:09:48.680" Score="5" ViewCount="691" Body="&lt;p&gt;After years of finding excuses to not home brew, I finally gave in and bought a starter kit from Brewers Best and ingredients for my first batch; Muntons Connoisseurs Export Pilsner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, it's been 3 days fermenting in the primary bucket and no action in the bubbler. I have gone through everything that I did in my head and today it hit me. I used the wrong corn sugar packet; the small one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to save this batch? As a newbie, I don't know if this is q big deal or not. PLEASE HELP!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1489" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T00:26:22.520" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T00:26:22.520" Title="I think I ruined my first brew" Tags="|beer|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4557" CreationDate="2011-06-27T10:45:30.750" Score="8" ViewCount="5666" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I started brewing in January, every single batch (6 so far) has come out flat.  I've had a couple come good after a few months in the back of the garage but for the most part, it's all flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I was underfilling the bottles quite significantly but I've since begun using a bottling wand &amp;amp; filling to overflow and the results are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been giving the partial-wort (I've been doing partial boil extract brews) a good shake &amp;amp; have always poured from a height.  Is that enough aeration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All brews have been fairly standard alcohol levels (highest at 5.1%) so I don't think it's that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My glasses do come from the dishwasher but they handle commercial beer fine.  The beer itself just doesn't have a steady flow of bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get plenty of sediment sitting on the bottom of the bottles so I think it's conditioned enough (I usually wait 2 weeks minimum before opening).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What approach should I take to trying to find the source of my problem?  Are there a few likely culprits I can try &amp;amp; experiment with small batches?  Are there any tests I can do?  Worst case scenario I'll have to invest in a keg setup (darn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T11:55:54.080" Title="How to troubleshoot flat beer?" Tags="|beer|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|troubleshooting|bottles|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4556" CreationDate="2011-06-27T11:43:06.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't bottled for a while now, so this is just some thoughts. Others, I am sure, will have helpful advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought is that you are under-priming. Make sure you are adding the right amount of priming sugar. Too much and you risk a blow-out, too little and low carbonation. I can't recall the best quantity at the moment but if you can add it to the bulk before bottling you should get an even mix. I would leave a small airspace above the beer in the bottle, perhaps no more than an inch (2.5cm). This should allow enough build up of head pressure to achieve good carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you leaving the bottles in a warm environment (70 degrees) for a week or so before transferring to a cooler place? This will allow the yeast to ferment the priming sugar and produce your conditioning gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure I understood what you meant by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've been giving the partial-wort&#xA;  (I've been doing partial boil extract&#xA;  brews) a good shake &amp;amp; have always&#xA;  poured from a height. Is that enough&#xA;  aeration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you mean prior to fermentation or after? Once fermentation is complete, I would avoid aerating the beer at all, as any introduction of air is going to encourage nasties. You did mention you use a bottling wand and this should be immersed as you fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, are you, perhaps, expecting to see find as much gas as commercially filtered and carbonated beer. I never found my bottle conditioned beer to be as gassy as brewery conditioned beer - in fact I prefer it not to be. My preference is for bottle conditioned beer to have life on the tongue but not to be 'fizzy'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope some of this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T11:43:06.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4556" CreationDate="2011-06-27T11:55:54.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Priming sugar at bottling time and 70F temps during carbonating are the likely culprits.  How you treat the wort preferment (partial boil and aeration techniques) has little to do with carbonation issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T11:55:54.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4555" CreationDate="2011-06-27T13:41:45.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not all fermenting buckets are air-tight, which means that occationaly you'll have a bucket where the airlock on top does not bubble properly. This by itself is not a problem. Also, your mistake with the corn sugar won't really hurt you, and it is not the reason you have no bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to do now is take off the lid of the bucket and see if you've had any fermentation. Signs of fermentation include, but are not limited to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scummy looking foam on the top of the liquid. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A brown ring above the line of the liquid &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Floating yeast clumps on top  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The presence of C02 in the head space of the bucket (you can smell this, it's a &quot;sharp&quot; sort of smell)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't see any of these things, the best thing for you to do is to buy a hydrometer from the store and a new packet of yeast TODAY and go take a sample from the beer. If the hydro sample is at or near to the starting gravity of the beer (which should be on the kit instructions) then fermentation has not begun and you need to add the new packet of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hydro sample is significantly* lower than the starting gravity, or if you see the signs in the list above, then you are fine. Just seal the lid back up and &lt;strong&gt;leave it alone&lt;/strong&gt; for 3 weeks before doing anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* Edit: By &quot;significantly&quot;, I mean something like .02 points lower or more. So 1.045 is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;significantly&quot; lower than 1.050, but 1.030 &lt;strong&gt;is.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-06-27T19:19:36.863" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T19:19:36.863" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-27T18:09:42.893" Score="3" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1080/gosebier-a-unique-style&quot;&gt;Gosebier- a unique style&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently fell in love with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gose&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gose style&lt;/a&gt; of sour wheat beers (similar to a Gueze), thanks to kegs of Bayerische Bahnhof invading my town. Naturally, I immediately wanted to make one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gose beers are normally made with coriander and salt. I haven't yet brewed with herbs, and adding salt to the mix is totally crazy in my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on amounts to use for a five-gallon batch? Timing? -- ie. boil, primary, secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1427" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T00:23:38.730" Title="Making a gose (salt in beer?)" Tags="|beer|recipe|additives|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-06-28T02:15:43.033" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2011-06-28T02:21:09.353" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brew Your Own recently did a feature on the Gose (Gosebier) style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find the full article &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/component/resource/article/Indices/11-Beer%20Styles/2429-gose&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; as well as the all-grain and extract with grain recipe's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have copied the all grain recipe here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There She Gose Again&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  OG = 1.048&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  FG = 1.012&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  IBU = 12&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  SRM = 4&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ABV = 4.7%  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ingredients&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  5 lbs. (2.3 kg) wheat malt&#xA;  3.25 lbs. (1.5 kg) German Pilsner malt (2 °L)&#xA;  2.0 lbs. (0.91 kg) acidulated malt (2 °L)&#xA;  0.50 lbs (0.23 kg) rice hulls&#xA;  2.8 AAU Santiam hops (60 min.) (0.5 oz./14 g of 5.6% alpha acids) 1 tsp Irish moss or 1 Whirlfloc® tablet (15 min.)&#xA;  1.0 oz (28 g) ground coriander seed (10 min.)&#xA;  0.75 oz (21 g) sea salt (10 min.) White Labs WLP029 (German Ale/Kölsch Yeast) or Wyeast 1007 (German Ale) yeast&#xA;  0.75 cup (150 g) priming sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step by Step&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Mill the grains, but be&#xA;  sure to keep the acidulated malt&#xA;  separate. Do not mill the rice hulls.&#xA;  Dough in all but the acidulated malt&#xA;  using 4.0 gallons (15 L) of water with&#xA;  a target mash holding temperature of&#xA;  149 °F (65 °C). Hold the mash&#xA;  temperature for approximately 60&#xA;  minutes or until the conversion is&#xA;  complete. Add the acidulated malt to&#xA;  the mash for an additional 45 minutes.&#xA;  Try to keep the temperature as close&#xA;  to original mash temperature as&#xA;  possible using an available heat&#xA;  source. Anything between 144–149 °F&#xA;  (62–65 °C) will work. Raise the&#xA;  temperature of the mash to 168 °F (76&#xA;  °C) and begin sparging with 170 °F (77&#xA;  °C) water until you collect 6.0&#xA;  gallons (23 L) of wort in the kettle.&#xA;       The total wort boiling time for this recipe is 60 minutes. At the&#xA;  onset of a full rolling boil, add your&#xA;  scheduled hop addition. When there are&#xA;  15 minutes remaining in the boil, be&#xA;  sure to add your Irish moss or&#xA;  Whirlfloc® tablet to help with&#xA;  precipitation of the hot break.  At 10&#xA;  minutes remaining, add both the ground&#xA;  coriander seed and the salt.&#xA;       Cool the wort to 68 °F (20 °C), transfer to your fermentation vessel&#xA;  and aerate the wort adequately. Add&#xA;  the contents of your yeast starter to&#xA;  the chilled wort. Ferment around 68 °F&#xA;  (20 °C) until the final gravity is&#xA;  reached, which should be in 5 to 7&#xA;  days. Rack to a secondary vessel and&#xA;  allow the beer to mature another 5 to&#xA;  7 days around the same temperature.&#xA;  Your beer is now ready to rack into a&#xA;  keg or bottles along with the priming&#xA;  sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T02:21:09.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4266" CreationDate="2011-06-28T03:35:44.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never covered my beers and haven't had an issue with skunky beer. I do have a dark basement and have mostly covered shelves where I store all of my bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you keep your bottles out of direct sunlight they should be good, so if you want/need to use a blanket to help facilitate that, it's up to you. But it really is dependent on your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T03:35:44.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4258" CreationDate="2011-06-28T03:40:02.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have listed a number of great books here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2121/what-is-the-best-book-for-beginning-home-brewers&quot;&gt;What is the best book for beginning home brewers?&lt;/a&gt;. Inside a number of these books are great recipes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T03:40:02.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4570" CreationDate="2011-06-28T04:23:31.533" Score="11" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing for a while now, and would really like a comprehensive book on the history of brewing. Something that covers the development of different styles of beer, and delves into the science behind brewing as well. I read &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381969&quot;&gt;Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation&lt;/a&gt; and found it extremely informative, and would like other books along this line, but covering grains, hops, styles etc. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T21:31:57.123" Title="What's A Good Book on the History of Brewing?" Tags="|beer-styles|books|science|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4564" CreationDate="2011-06-28T12:25:02.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Radical Brewing by randy Mosher might be a good choice. He covers a lot of ground, so he doesn't ever spend more than a few pages on any given topic (malting, hops, etc), but he does a great job of covering the basics of pretty much all aspects of brewing. He even has some chapters on creating an automated home brewery and malting at home, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T12:25:02.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4258" CreationDate="2011-06-28T12:29:10.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd agree to be careful of &quot;internet recipes&quot;, but that being said, there's good advice to be had at HomeBrewTalk.com. They have a fairly active recipe exchange forum, and generally the recipes there have been tried by a couple of folks - and usually if someone else attempts it, their feedback will be listed there as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the books listed above, I've also enjoyed &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1592532934&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Extreme Brewing&quot;&gt;Extreme Brewing&lt;/a&gt; by Dogfish Head's Sam Calagione. Some of the DFH recipes are listed in that book, and the ones I've tried have been very good. Also, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Designing Great Beers&quot;&gt;Designing Great Beers&lt;/a&gt; is an excellent start for building your own recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I've used the Northern Brewer site to look at their recipes (go to the page for the kit you're interested in, and choose the link for the Kit Inventory Sheet). From there, you can buy the kit as is, or tweak ingredients. Most of those recipes are tried and tested good beers (in my experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T12:29:10.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4284" CreationDate="2011-06-28T15:58:39.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Allowing time for the fermentation to finish before bottling has been the most important difference for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T15:58:39.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4284" CreationDate="2011-06-28T17:30:56.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one has mentioned Isinglass when barreling ale. Whereas Irish Moss and whirlfoc will remove proteins, isinglass added during barrelling will clear the yeast. Yeast is negatively charged and isinglass, a long and twisted positively charged protein, can 'trap' many yeast cells at a time. It should be prepared and added according to the producer's instructions and you might need a few trials to get the amount to add spot on. Too little and the beer won't clear, too much and the beer will be overfined, with the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important though, that the sediment stays with the beer in the barrel, as it is needed to allow that final conditioning, so don't add it before barrelling and rack off from the sediment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit fiddly, but once you get it right the result is really bright ale - assuming you have dealt with your proteins with auxiliary finings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note, though, never add auxiliary finings and isinglass at the same time as they will bond together and cancel each other out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T17:30:56.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3261" CreationDate="2011-06-28T19:39:35.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;6 months later and having used both king keg and corny keg there is one major point to add:&#xA;Force carbonation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with a corny keg comes the additional expense of a CO2 regulator but with this comes the capability to accurately control the pressure of CO2 on your beer and get the level of carbonation you want (something I struggled with previously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was this capability that made me upgrade and it's definitely worth the additional cost.  I'll be getting rid of my king kegs in time but for now I'm using them to do a secondary fermentation before the corny.  If I had it to do again I would not have gone the king keg route - but don't let that stop you buying mine off ebay ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T19:39:35.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4564" CreationDate="2011-06-28T20:19:14.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good book on English style beer is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0752455672&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amber, Gold &amp;amp; Black&lt;/a&gt;.  It is a fairly comprehensive history of beer in Britain.  I have taken a step further back to beyond the use of hops and just picked up &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381667&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sacred and Herbal Healing Beers&lt;/a&gt;.  This goes into more detail and includes the folkloric backgrounds of the individual ingredients.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Belgian beers, pick up &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/093738187X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Like a Monk&lt;/a&gt;.  The author gives a detailed history of every brewery, their styles, etc.  A lot of information crammed into this little book.  The author also has a book on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381950&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wheat&lt;/a&gt; beers, but I have not yet read it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is enough to get you started, hopefully.  If you want information on American beers, just watch Beer Wars.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T20:19:14.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4564" CreationDate="2011-06-28T21:56:05.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure where you are located, but there was a book published in the UK in 1990 called &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0951568507&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;The Historical Companion to House-Brewing&quot;&lt;/a&gt; There is a synopsis of the book on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/187243844X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a more recent reprint&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I paraphrase from the inner cover blurb... &quot;The book contains a wealth of detailed historical information on European beers, with recipes from the 15th to 19th centuries. It also has step-by-step instructions on making malt that can no longer be purchased in order to brew beers not now commercially available. There is also guidance on keeping a hop garden and drying the cones, plus numerous examples of how to make herb beers and using hop surrogates.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some very interesting old recipes. One, called Worker's Ale (c 1798), has a starting gravity of only 1028, uses Pale, Amber or Brown Malt, with adjuncts of chillies, coriander and salt, and uses kentish hops. Interestingly, the mash temp is 85 deg C for 2-3 hours. I would have thought this too high, but I guess this could well be a light in alcohol but full-bodied ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, it's a really good book which I shall hang on to. It might still be available somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T21:56:05.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4573" CreationDate="2011-06-28T23:32:41.403" Score="7" ViewCount="7539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that whole hops impart less bitterness than pellet hops by weight.  I have used pellet hops for all of my brews thus far.  I have a recipe that I am happy with, and I want to switch to using whole hops.  Is there some reliable conversion between appropriate weights for whole hops vs. pellet hops?  Is it perhaps 20% more &amp;mdash; or some other number?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-29T02:14:27.520" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T02:14:27.520" Title="When using whole hops, do you need a larger amount than you would hop pellets to achieve the same bitterness?" Tags="|beer|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4572" CreationDate="2011-06-28T23:51:09.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will get more utilization from pellet hops since they are pulverized, giving them more contact with the wort during the boil. However there isn't a hard and fast conversion rate, since there are a lot of variables with hops. Brew Dudes suggests you get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com/whole-hops-hop-plugs-and-pellets/165&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;10-25% better utilization&lt;/a&gt; with pellet hops, and 10% is the typical number I've heard, so working off of that, you can use about 10% more whole hops to make up the difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what scale you are working on, but instead of buying another ounce of hops to get an extra .2-.4 ounces, I might just increase the boil time for the existing hops to bump the IBUs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say just experiment with slightly more hops or a slightly longer boil until you get something that tastes about right, but unless you have a sensitive palate you may not even notice the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T23:51:09.657" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4575" CreationDate="2011-06-29T00:00:16.090" Score="6" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://zekeshore.com/hops_v1.12.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beautiful chart&lt;/a&gt; that shows the level of various hop oils in different hops, as well as their typical alpha acid percentages.  Where can I find the raw data that would go into a chart like this?  I am interested in making an interactive version of that chart.  Also, there is at least one hop oil not measured in that chart. (cohumulone)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-06-29T02:13:33.840" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T20:19:43.753" Title="Amounts of various oils in hops." Tags="|beer|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4574" CreationDate="2011-06-29T01:06:41.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to &lt;a href=&quot;https://spreadsheets.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjCpyKuDBP1TdFNiT1ctTFZVeGtRQ3hpSkxfTUgwZnc&amp;amp;hl=en_US&amp;amp;authkey=CJiF3NcN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;compile a sourced- and rolled-up list of hops&lt;/a&gt; for a project (&lt;a href=&quot;http://brew-journal.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brew-journal.com&lt;/a&gt;).  Data is very commercially driven, and hard to come by.   Feel free to use (look for the green-annotated &quot;COMBINED&quot; rows) and please let me know if you find another/appropriate source to be included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T01:06:41.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4581" CreationDate="2011-06-29T13:57:56.030" Score="17" ViewCount="8228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious to try some single-hop style beers and would like to do several varieties in one brew day. My ideal situation would be to make a five gallon batch of an unhopped pale ale as the base and use that to make five, one gallon batches of different single hop beers. If possible, I'd like to do this without five separate boils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible to boil the hops in separate sauce pans of water and then add this hop water into the primary fermentor for different style? Would this taste the same as if I had boiled the hops in the main wort? I'm not sure if there is an enzyme in the wort that acts on the hops at boiling temperatures that I'll miss in the separate boil.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a more obvious way of doing this that I'm missing? My thinking is that it would be easier to boil hops in five separate quarts of water on the stove than boiling five one gallon batches of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-06-29T15:01:01.623" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T20:28:01.600" Title="Performing a hop boil seperate from the wort boil." Tags="|beer|hops|boil|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4579" CreationDate="2011-06-29T15:57:55.113" Score="12" ViewCount="11673" Body="&lt;p&gt;When sanitizing your carboys, do you fill them all the way up (6+ gallons) with sanitizer or do you put in less and swirl it around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may depend on what type of sanitizer is being used. I'm using StarSan, but I'm interested to hear the answer for other sanitizers as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1506" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T13:25:03.577" Title="How Do You Sanitize Your Carboys?" Tags="|sanitation|carboy|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4576" CreationDate="2011-06-29T16:02:46.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do need to boil the hops in the presence of wort sugars to isomerize the hop oils to get bitterness.  This is why IBUs are a function of boil length and an (inverse) function of gravity.  Boiling in water will not do the same thing.  My &lt;em&gt;guess&lt;/em&gt; is that flavor and aroma aren't affected substantially in the same way.  You might want to use a more neutral hop for bittering, and the specialty hop for flavor/aroma evaluation, but then you're going to be getting a skewed sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe, try a test: do your 5g unhopped boil, plus a 1g hopped-wort boil and a 1g hop-tea infusion on 1 of the 5 gallons with the same hop; then you can see how close the two are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T16:02:46.173" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4577" CreationDate="2011-06-29T16:18:29.363" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a that scrubby cleaner thing with some cleanser and maybe half a gallon of water to get all the particulates loosened up and get the surface clean. Then I rinse it with water, and put in maybe a quarter gallon or less of sanitizing solution, just enough to make sure I touch every surface with it. The carboy doesn't need to be immersed in it, it just needs to have some sanitizer get on it for about a minute for it to be effective. Then I pour out the solution and let it dry, easy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T16:18:29.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4577" CreationDate="2011-06-29T16:32:14.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this point, I have a glass primary and secondary carboy.  At the end of use, I scrub them with hot water and oxyclean.  Then I add 2.5 or 3 gal of star san solution and leave it in the carboy for storage.  I recycle my star san solution until it starts to look cloudy (although I saw an episode of brewing tv where they just used ph strips.  They said as long as the ph was lower than 3, the solution was still good).  On brew day I usually siphon or pour the star san solution into a clean bucket to use for sanitizing my other equipment, and at the end of brew day I transfer it into my secondary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1037" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T16:32:14.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4576" CreationDate="2011-06-29T16:54:46.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this experiment won't help you on the difference in the bittering qualities of the hops you choose, I would suggest that you bitter the base beer with just enough Magnum* or Galena* to hit basic beer levels (10-20 IBU), then separate the wort out to 5 other pots and add 5 different flavoring/aroma hops to these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, all the beers are bittered the same, but you'll be able to tell what the different hop varieties are doing for the flavor of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(* I'd use Magnum or Galena because they are both very high alpha and also very neutral in flavor. They'll basically be contributing little to no flavor at all in a 10-20 IBU beer because it will take around a half ounce to hit that IBU range.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I'd suggest doing a single addition in each pot at the 10min mark. That will give you a little aroma as well as flavor. Later on, you could replicate the experiment again doing different amounts at different times, or even dry hopping a batch instead of boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-07-11T20:20:48.700" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T20:20:48.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4577" CreationDate="2011-06-29T16:57:52.370" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is specific to Iodophor, but the manufacturer states that you do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; have to fill a carboy up to sanitize with it. As long as you slosh enough around to get all the surfaces wet, then the sanitizer will work. Star San would work the same way, just make sure the foam touches all parts of the carboy. No need to waste sanitizer and water by making more than a gallon of solution, if you are just cleaning that one carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Also, specifically for Iodophor, we home brewers typically make the solution WAY TOO STRONG. If you mix it to the proper concentration, the solution will appear like normal water with just a tinge of color. If its as dark as, say, tea, then you are making your solution too strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-07-01T12:10:42.927" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T12:10:42.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4577" CreationDate="2011-06-29T17:28:31.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use iodine from the chemist for sanitation (it is not called Iodaphor, but it's essentially the same thing). I don't fill up the carboy, but just add a few drops to a couple of  litres of water  and swill it around for a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The iodine is about 2% solution, and following Papazian's recommendation that equates to about a teaspoon in 19 litres (5 gal), or a couple of drops in a couple of litres. It is easy, non-toxic (in those concentrations), economical and seems to work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-06-29T17:51:09.523" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T17:51:09.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4585" CreationDate="2011-06-29T17:37:29.403" Score="9" ViewCount="2292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am  approaching bottling time for my &quot;ordinary&quot; bitter and was wondering, does bottle size (i.e. volume) have any appreciable effect on the final beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been working hard collecting pint-sized (~500 ml) bottles by drinking craft beer, but I have also seen 1 litre bottles and 330 ml ones that could work. Other than the sediment to beer ratio (which could get annoying for very small bottles) does size matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T22:18:05.297" Title="Is there an optimal bottle size?" Tags="|bottling|bottles|sediment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4584" CreationDate="2011-06-29T18:28:33.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Size doesn't matter.  It's completely up to you to use whatever you want.  If you're bottling correctly, the sediment-to-beer ration should stay the same between bottles.  That's because by the time you bottle, the beer should have fallen very clear with very little yeast still suspended.  That tiny bit of yeast will wake up in the bottle, grow and divide as needed, ferment the priming sugar, then drop to the bottom.  You should end up with a very, very thin layer of yeast on the bottom of the bottle regardless of whether you bottle in 330s, 250s, 500s, or whatever.  When you get good at pouring your well-conditioned homebrew, you'll leave no more than 1/8&quot; of beer on the bottom of the bottle and get little-to-no yeast in your glass.  If you have more than a paper-thin layer of yeast on the bottom, you have some work to do on your process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, I like to bottle nearly everything in standard US 12 ouncers.  They fit nicely in cardboard 6pack carriers that I can give to friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T18:28:33.013" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4584" CreationDate="2011-06-29T19:06:52.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use mostly 12 oz (355ml) bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do collect larger bottles and Grolsch bottles too. I typically wait until I've got like 10-20 of these bottles then do a large portion of my batch into these as it makes bottling faster. I also often drink with friends so having a 700 ml bottle is easy to split between two or three people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T19:06:52.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4576" CreationDate="2011-06-29T19:10:17.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, if it were me, I would just do five smaller test brews under controlled conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really do need to boil the hops in the wort, as the gravity of the wort will affect the hop utilisation rates. The higher the gravity the lower the utilisation. Also, acidity (pH) increases slightly during the wort boil and this particularly affects the isomerisation of humulone (ref:Brewing by Ian S Hornsey - RSC Paperbacks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Graham &amp;amp; @jsled make interesting suggestions, but if you were to find a combination you like you would then have to translate it back to a traditional, in the wort, boil and that in itself might produce a differing result to your test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice, do five brews and in between, relax and have a home brew! Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastEditorUserId="1088" LastEditDate="2011-06-29T19:16:36.213" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T19:16:36.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4576" CreationDate="2011-06-29T19:36:16.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I've tried boiling hops in water I've always gotten a harsh vegetal flavor from them that was disgusting.  I even tried adjusting the pH of the water to be more like wort and it only made it slightly less disgusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T19:36:16.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4584" CreationDate="2011-06-29T22:18:05.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would take into account the strength of the brew, too. I make the odd gallon of Barley Wine and bottle it in 190ml 'nips'. At 8-9% ABV it is not such a good idea to serve up a 500ml bottle - certainly not before operating machinery. Though, you could share with a friend (Funny how they come out of the woodwork for a free beer, isn't it?) On the other hand a bottle of 3.5% Pale would be pointless in a nip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how bottle size affects the final beer? I suppose in theory a barrel is a big bottle, and the conditioning does differ, but common bottle sizes, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T22:18:05.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2011-06-30T01:21:33.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what I do:  Let it go a week from the time you pitch the yeast.  Even if it's past the very active stage the yeast is still at work - albeit slowly.  After a full 7 days carefully (so as not to contaminate the beer) measure the gravity.  Then wait at least 24 hours and measure it again.  If they are unchanged then it's done.  This simple process has not failed me yet!  Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1507" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T01:21:33.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-30T15:47:22.973" Score="9" ViewCount="4704" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I cracked open a nearly year-old bottle of oatmeal porter last night and it tasted a bit &quot;yeasty&quot;. In fact, much more yeasty than I remember from a few months ago. I was fairly careful in my pouring so I don't think I drank much in the way of sediment.  Is this &quot;yeast-bite&quot; or something else? What exactly &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; yeast-bite?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T04:51:09.600" Title="What exactly is yeast-bite?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4591" CreationDate="2011-06-30T16:40:17.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be pretty unusual to find &quot;yeast bite&quot; in a beer that old.  Generally, it's a kind of harshness or &quot;bite&quot; (yeah, I know) caused by yeast in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T16:40:17.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4591" CreationDate="2011-06-30T17:41:02.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are tasting may be related to the carbonation level of the beer.  If the beer is over carbonated it can develop a bite from the carbonic acid and can create a &quot;twang&quot; in the aftertaste.  Also when opening the bottle the release of CO2 for solution can stir sediment up from the bottom of the bottle which could account for the yeasty taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion this is what many people used to describe as that &quot;homebrew or extract twang.&quot; This along with oxidation and possibly off flavors from poor fermentation also contributing.  I do still run into this on occasion while judging but is much less common these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just a theory and without a sample in front of me it would be hard to pinpoint exactly what you are tasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T17:41:02.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4151" CreationDate="2011-07-01T09:43:16.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never used isinglass, but was sufficiently interested to read around the subject a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like that if you are talking about liquid isinglass, it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have a fairly limited shelf life. This website [1] suggests that isinglass has a shelf-life of 4 - 8 weeks tops if stored at below room temperatures. Above 20C / 68F the proteins in it can denature (alter the protein structure). This can lead to white lumps floating in the surface of the liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds a bit like what you are seeing. It is possible that the kit was stored at too high a temperature prior to purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same website suggests that it is better to use powdered isinglass or flocs (==flakes) since these have a better shelf life and are easier to store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.practicalbrewing.co.uk/fining/page5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.practicalbrewing.co.uk/fining/page5.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T09:43:16.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-01T10:06:14.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a corona mill for 40 euros (58 USD). Not cheap, but I couldn't find anything else in Madrid and wanted it immediately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VKUAS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Corona Mill&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mill works pretty well, although it is probably not really designed for the coarse grinding we want for malts. It is more for making finer flour. I couldn't get enough separation between the two grinding plates so I had to loosen the lock pin (see image, pin on far left) which made the whole thing wobble about a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have used the mill quite a bit and the grind comes out fine. Or, at least, I usually seem to hit my target gravities with an extraction efficiency of ~70% which is fine by me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T10:06:14.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4591" CreationDate="2011-07-01T13:00:42.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was of the understanding that 'yeast-bite' was a consequence of poor temperature control during fermentation - particularly, too high a temperature. It gives earthy or broth-like flavours. There's a UK supplier called Murphy &amp;amp; son that mentions &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.murphyandson.co.uk/FAQs/FAQ_Topic18.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yeast-bite&lt;/a&gt;. Chris White's book '&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381969&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yeast&lt;/a&gt;' recounts a story of a Texas brewer who was getting earthy off flavours and could not work out why. Turns out that the top of the fermenting beer was above the top of the cooling jacket. The yeast was 'cooking' at the top of the FV and adding autolysis flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, it might be that your off-flavour is a consequence of autolysis in the bottle. If the sediment is thicker than a dusting across the bottom of the bottle then there was probably an excess of yeast during the conditioning, and now that some time has passed those flavours are making themselves known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, it may be something else, maybe I could try some too... :-D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[EDIT] In response to @Denny down voting. I have done a cursory Google on &quot;Yeast bite cause&quot; and I would refer you to the top two results (UK Google).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/article/indices/58-yeast/183-beat-yeast-bite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BYO website&lt;/a&gt; Quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Length of fermentation and&#xA;  fermentation temperature are also&#xA;  important yeast-bite considerations. A&#xA;  fast, warm fermentation racked&#xA;  immediately into bottles will leave&#xA;  lots of yeast in suspension in the&#xA;  bottles and will also result in a&#xA;  thicker layer of sediment as the beer&#xA;  matures. Keep your fermentation&#xA;  temperatures well within the range for&#xA;  the style you are brewing, allow the&#xA;  yeast to settle for several days after&#xA;  primary fermentation, and rack the&#xA;  beer into another container, if&#xA;  possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dead Yeast: Autolysis&lt;/strong&gt; At the end&#xA;  of fermentation, when most of the&#xA;  yeast has settled into a hard pack of&#xA;  sediment, some of the cells will begin&#xA;  to die and undergo a process called&#xA;  autolysis. Autolysis is probably the&#xA;  single most important contributor to&#xA;  yeast bite. “Lysis,” the dissolution&#xA;  or disintegration of the cell, coupled&#xA;  with “auto,” self, basically means&#xA;  “self-destruction.” Simply put, when&#xA;  yeast cells die at the end of&#xA;  fermentation, the yeast’s own enzymes&#xA;  begin to digest the yeast cell itself.&#xA;  This process releases all kinds of&#xA;  nasty compounds into the beer,&#xA;  including fatty acids and sulfur- and&#xA;  nitrogen-containing compounds that&#xA;  cause the aromas and flavors described&#xA;  above as meaty, rubbery, and sour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.draymans.com/articles/arts/16.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Drayman's Brewery and Distillery&lt;/a&gt; Quote: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yeast autolysis or self-lysis is the&#xA;  breaking open or rupturing of the&#xA;  yeast cell and the transfer (leaking&#xA;  out) of undesirable substances and&#xA;  off-flavours to the beer. The flavour&#xA;  is described as yeast-bite,&#xA;  broth-like, meaty, sulphury and dirty&#xA;  diaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastEditorUserId="1088" LastEditDate="2011-07-01T21:50:23.173" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T21:50:23.173" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2011-07-01T13:27:01.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Living in the middle of a city at the moment, so I have to do all my brewing indoors and so far I haven't had many problems. I have a pot that takes 14 litres (3.7 gal) and I usually top it up to make about 16 litres (4.2 gal). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage that I do have is that we recently installed a really nice new induction hob which easily boils 14 litres fast and seems to be pretty efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We live on the top floor of an apartment block and I just open up the windows, turn on the extraction fan and brew away ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-07-01T18:11:32.550" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T18:11:32.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="510" CreationDate="2011-07-01T13:34:05.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made bread from the trub and I wouldn't recommend it. I made a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; bitter bread. D'oh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T13:34:05.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2011-07-01T13:57:11.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew in a shed, technically indoors, but I could just as easily brew indoors if the 'war office' would let me. I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brupaks.com/boilers%20mashtuns.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brupak electric boiler&lt;/a&gt;. It gives a good rolling boil and doesn't go all floppy when it's hot. It has a 2kW element holds 29 litres and is not much bigger than a 5 gallon bucket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VKPVn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brupaks Boiler&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gjaJa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inside the Brupaks boiler&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T13:57:11.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="510" CreationDate="2011-07-01T15:13:16.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used some spent grain in a bread recipe, and it was fantastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two weeks ago, I brewed a batch of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/recipe-kits/extract-kits/extract-ale-kits/caribou-slobber-extract-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Northern Brewer Caribou Slobber&lt;/a&gt; from the extract kit. After getting the wort into the primary, I made a double batch of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kingarthurflour.com/recipes/classic-100-whole-wheat-bread-recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;whole wheat bread&lt;/a&gt; and added all my leftover specialty grains to it. For this kit, the grains were 0.25 lbs Briess Caramel 80L, 0.25 lbs Fawcett Pale Chocolate, and 0.125 lbs Black Malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah, it turned out a tad dense, but not too bad. It tasted a lot like a black bread recipe that I like to make. It was a little bitter, but in a good way. I whipped up some honey butter to go with it, and it was a big hit with the wife and kids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will definitely be doing that again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1506" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T15:13:16.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2011-07-01T18:10:32.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always brewed indoors on my electric stove. I may have a more powerful stove than most though because I routinely boil 6+ gallons with little issue. I haven't needed to straddle the element either (though the pot is so big it sometimes does balance on another one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one downside to brewing indoors is that my wife doesn't like the smell of boiling wort (I love it though). You have to have air flow (no extraction fan for me) so I open up the two windows right beside my stove and some others in the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to get an induction hob (I'm jealous of @Poshpaws) and a vent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T18:10:32.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4604" CreationDate="2011-07-02T02:36:00.637" Score="5" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I don't care how clear my wine (from kits) comes out, am I missing out on any other benefits/side effects by not using any isenglass/bentonite/sparkolloid? I've done a few batches without any additives and they've come out pretty clear (I let them sit for a month or so after stabilization).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-07-04T09:40:28.207" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T09:40:28.207" Title="Are there any benefits to isenglass, bentonite, etc. besides clarification?" Tags="|wine|clarification|isinglass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4607" CreationDate="2011-07-03T01:24:11.850" Score="7" ViewCount="2732" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently brewed a dry stout extract kit.  Boiled 5 gallons on propane.  Steeped 2 lbs of roasted malt, crystal malt and flaked barley at 155-160 F.  Extract was 6.6lbs of Coopers Light LME.  As usual, I swirled about a cup of near boiling water in the extract cans to get the &quot;leftovers&quot;.  Recipe's expected OG was 1.050.  Measured OG after topping off to 5 gallons and just before pitching was 1.060.  Temp was around 68.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a test of the recipe, I plugged everything into BeerSmith and (if I did it right) it estimated a OG of 1.052.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up just pitching the yeast.  I supposed I could have kept adding top-off until I got down to 1.050.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what I could have done to get a OG of 1.060 instead of 1.050? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="921" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T14:53:37.760" Title="Why was original gravity high by .010?" Tags="|techniques|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4602" CreationDate="2011-07-03T04:33:21.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&#xA;The reasons for fining or filtering are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Appearance.  Judges (and therefore many consumers)  like to see a clear product.  Generally, you will do better in a competition if your wine or beer looks like what the judges expect for that style, and most times what they expect is the mass-marketed crap you can buy at Safeway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Flaws or bacterial growth.  If you've sent your wine to a lab and it comes back positive for brettanomyeces, then you'll want to sterile filter it so it doesn't (1) keep fermenting in the bottle and get carbonated and (2) smell like a sweaty horse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Bacterial growth (part 2).  I had one once where the lactic acid bacteria (MBR31, which I inoculated it with for malolactic fermentation) continued to party on long after the malic acid was gone.  So I had a cloudy wine due to chains of oenococcus bacteria still thriving.  I fined it with Pulviclar S from Vinquiry, which helped a little.  Bumped up the SO2 also.  The wine is still somewhat turbid when poured, but it's still fine, smells and tastes excellent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that my answer comes from experience making Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which I feel benefit from being unfined and unfiltered.  My commercial wines are all unfined and unfiltered unless there's a problem with them during barrel aging.  Though many Bordeaux and Rhone makers do the same (Ridge Vineyards comes to mind). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your wine looks clear in the glass when you pull a barrel sample and if you can rack it from the barrel to the bottling tank carefully and subsequently settle it out, then I see no reason why it should be fined or filtered.  Personally, I feel fining and filtering takes something away from the wine in order to appease critics and judges.  I don't fine my commercial wines unless I absolutely have to.  I've not yet (knock on wood) filtered one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T04:33:21.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4603" CreationDate="2011-07-03T04:43:07.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen that happen when the brewer paid as much attention as you have. I think the only real variable here is the extract-- could be there was a higher sugar content than expected. I can only imagine that making extract is a somewhat inexact science-- perhaps it was a slightly more sugary extract than advertised?  The only way to know for sure is to relax, don't worry, have a homebrew and then brew the recipe again.  Maybe next time make up your own grist instead of using extract, gain a bit more control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T04:43:07.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4591" CreationDate="2011-07-03T04:51:09.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're tasting oxidation.  The little bit of oxygen that gets compressed into the bottle when you bottle a beer will age it just like a wine ages.  Unfortunately, most beers lack the acidity, alcohol and tannin to benefit from micro-oxidation like wine does.  So many beers just... spoil.. with age.  Exceptions tend to be Belgian-inspired beers that are aged in wine barrels and pick up some brett in the barrel which affects the pH and acid profile, along with high alcohol beers like stouts that are built to be barrel aged.  An oatmeal porter, if low in alcohol (under 8% or so) and generously hopped, will change a lot (possibly for the worst) after bottle aging for a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you need alcohol, acid and tannin to age a beer.  And the kinds of tannins that come from grain husks aren't sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T04:51:09.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4603" CreationDate="2011-07-03T09:34:20.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its likely that you got a little more out of your grain then the original recipe intended.  Furthermore, I think you underestimate the precision of your hydrometer.  The standard error in our measurements with a hydrometer is probably not far from the 0.008 you are off from what beersmith told you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within all practical purposes you hit your target gravity on the nose when you take into account the variability of the measurement and the factors that go into it.  I'd be more concerned if you had gotten 1.030 or 1.080.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T09:34:20.613" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4094" CreationDate="2011-07-03T12:40:21.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed with heather in a gruit, and spent some time beforehand experimenting with teas in combinations of other herbs.  There is a lack of solid information regarding gruits, much less heather.  My reading material included &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gruitale.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GruitAle.com&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381837&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Radical Brewing&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381667&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sacred Herbal and Healing Beers&lt;/a&gt;, forum searches on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HBT&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AHA&lt;/a&gt;, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bittering, the recipes I found call for &lt;em&gt;a pound or more&lt;/em&gt; per 5 gallon batch.  Heather flowers are tiny and very light, so 8oz will take up an entire 8x9 nylon boiling bag.  If you add it directly to the boil, you will need to strain it out before adding to the fermenter.  I imagine they'll clog an autosiphon just as easily as whole hops.  In my case, I supplemented with other, stronger bittering herbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For flavor, many recipes tell you to pour the hot wort directly through the heather.  This is highly inefficient, and you won't get the heather's full flavor potential.  This &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; work with fresh heather, but the only way I know how to obtain that is to grow your own, and harvesting heather is time consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that &lt;strong&gt;the best way to get heather flavor and aroma is to make a tea.&lt;/strong&gt;  Either use hot water or wort.  Fill a french press, 2-4oz at a time, and steep for 5-15 minutes.  Pour this right into the fermenter or cooling wort.  You can do this as many times as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the 5gal gruit recipe that I made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lbs Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.00 oz Mugwort, Dried (Boil 60.0 min) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.00 oz Yarrow, Dried (Boil 60.0 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4.00 oz Heather Tips, Dried (Boil 60.0 min) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4.00 oz Heather Tips, Dried (Tea w/ 4c hot wort) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Pkgs Nottingham Yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measured OG: 1.072&#xA;3-4 week fermentation at 65F&#xA;Est  ABV 7.1%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mugwort, yarrow, and half the heather went in a nylon boiling bag.  The herbs also soaked up more water than anticipated, and I ended up having to top off my fermenter with 1/2 gal more water.  I had originally intended to scale back the yarrow, but I figured the high gravity needed the stronger bittering that it would bring.  I suggest you research this ingredient before using.  &quot;You're on your own&quot;.  I will edit this answer in a couple months with tasting notes, but the wort tastes excellent.  The next gruit will have elderberry in addition to the heather.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/heather&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'heather'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;heather&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/yarrow&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'yarrow'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;yarrow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/mugwort&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'mugwort'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;mugwort&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/gruit&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'gruit'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;gruit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T12:40:21.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-03T14:25:13.400" Score="15" ViewCount="4085" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wheat beer in secondary that has been on 5 lbs of strawberries for 6 days.  The flavor is phenomenal right now, just perfect.  The strawberries continue to ferment actively, and I want to make sure I don't miss a window where the flavor changes due to allowing the strawberries to ferment out completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know from what I've read that the flavor will fade over a short time, even if the flavor is strong right now. But I don't expect this brew to stick around for long anyways (i.e. less than a month).  I want to capture this overwhelming fresh strawberry flavor while it lasts.  I should mention that the strawberry flavor isn't so much a &quot;sweet&quot; flavor, but more of a &quot;fresh&quot; flavor as you would get if you stuck your nose into a freshly picked bucket of strawberries and breathed deeply for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used German ale yeast (Wyeast 1007) and have been fermenting cool for both primary and secondary, at around 58° F, with a 3-day diacetyl rest prior to racking onto the strawberries in secondary.  (OG:  1.066 ; FG prior to racking to secondary:  1.011.)  This yeast does really well at low temperatures, but it did take a few days before the strawberries started to visibly ferment.  At six days the fermentation is pretty vigorous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I keg this now when I think the flavor is at it's peak or should I let the strawberries ferment out completely?  What would be the advantages and/or disadvantages of allowing it to finish fermenting the fruit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE:  Since I am kegging this rather than bottle conditioning, I don't have to be concerned about fermentation continuing in the bottle and potentially causing bottle bombs.  Any advice people can give me on this would not apply if I were bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastEditorUserId="412" LastEditDate="2011-07-04T02:42:15.930" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T14:49:25.820" Title="Fruit beer: should I allow it to ferment out completely?" Tags="|fermentation|secondary|fruit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4603" CreationDate="2011-07-03T14:53:37.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A difference of 0.01 in OG looks suspiciously like the difference you'd get in your recipe if you used DME rather than LME (the quoted difference is usually 20% - i.e., DME contains 20% more fermentable sugars by weight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You definitely used LME in your recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T14:53:37.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4609" CreationDate="2011-07-03T17:27:38.257" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd let it complete.  You're not going to lose strawberry flavor by letting it ferment all the fruit.  The sugar will attach the sugar from the berries; the flavor compounds will remain intact.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, even if you keg it now - racking it off the fruit pulp - it will continue to ferment the berry sugar in the keg.  The yeast and the fruit's naturally-occurring pectic enzymes have likely already turned the berries to mush and released the berry juice into the beer.  If you rack, you'll be pulling that berry juice along with the beer, and it will continue to ferment in your keg.  So, I think it's going to finish fermenting whether you rack now or let it finish in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted it to stop fermenting and leave some unfermented berry juice, you'd have to cold crash and add sorbate, like winemakers do.  That's a whole topic in and of itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing - As a slight aside, I've found that adding fruit to beer causes the fruit beer to taste drier than the base beer.  Even though the same amount of unfermentable malt sugars remain, the addition of simple sugar from the fruit, when fermented out, makes for a thinner, drier beer.  This time of year I find that to be pretty refreshing, actually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T17:27:38.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4609" CreationDate="2011-07-03T20:38:36.857" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;KEG IT NOW!&#xA;I make a strawberry wheat too and the beauty of kegging is to not worry about the extra ferment.  If you were bottling then you have the right idea you'd have to let it go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I make mine I keg it when its at its peak.  I usually make that beer in prep for my wife b-day which happens in late July.  I plan it just right to ferment the beer, condition a bit with strawberries, then keg it and drink the whole thing at one party.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it tastes perfect now I say keg it.  Chill it below the level of activity for the yeast and you are good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was going to package the beer and hold it for a while I'd be concerned about the unfermented sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T20:38:36.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-03T21:27:10.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As has been said, the cheapest option is to use your Local Home Brew Store's mill. Or see if there is a local brewery near by that you can befriend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that moving away from the LHBS' mill was a huge benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More consistent milled product which allowed for better accuracy of brew targets over time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to buy in bulk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can adjust my recipes on brew day (without having extra cracked grains)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can adjust the mill gap depending on the ingredients (rye vs wheat vs barley)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I get to eat more whole grains to make sure I am happy with the flavor profile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you venture out into a more expensive home mill, there are a couple of things you will want to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can it handle the volume you want to run?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you adjust the mill gap?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you upgrade it as you go along?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does it get mounted?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After googling around a bit I found three vendors in the running for my mill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.monsterbrewinghardware.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.monsterbrewinghardware.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.barleycrusher.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.barleycrusher.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crankandstein.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.crankandstein.net/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up going with the Monster Mill 3 roller w/ 1/2&quot; drive but my gut is any of these are fine products. I &quot;motorized&quot; mine with a Dewalt 1/2&quot; corded screwdriver (12amp hammerdrill). These can also be fitted with a set of wheels and belts to do a more permeant installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you brew by yourself, I recommend getting a good size hopper and rollers big enough for the job. I just put the mill on top of a bucket, dump a whole bucket in the hopper and then crack those (while my water is coming up to strike temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, check the gap on the mill ever couple of grinds. Even though I have marked (sharpie) the spot where I have set the mill gap, it does not take much to get out of position. I use my VW's feeler gauges for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, We have been very happy with getting the mill and cracking the grains right before dough in is not problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1215" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T21:27:10.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4616" CreationDate="2011-07-03T22:45:24.757" Score="6" ViewCount="532" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sick of the hassle of bottling, so I want to get a fridge and keg setup. Obviously it needs to be able to fit the kegs, but is there any other things I should look for in a fridge? I don't mind spending a bit more money, but I don't want to bring it home to find out it won't work with the other equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1221" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T16:36:50.487" Title="What to look for in a fridge to be used for kegging?" Tags="|kegging|refrigerator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4619" CreationDate="2011-07-04T01:29:54.527" Score="5" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making some sort of low alcohol kriek type beer, and just picked up a few pounds of dried cherries from Cosco.  When I got home I noticed the last ingredient on the cherries is sunflower oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure I know the answer is &quot;no.&quot;  But is it safe to use these cherries?  They have no fat, so there really can't be much oil on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T12:38:56.807" Title="Sunflower oil on dried cherries" Tags="|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4614" CreationDate="2011-07-04T06:00:29.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, not much at all.  Make sure it seals OK, make sure it cools &amp;amp; make sure you have room for all the kegs you want to fit (many fridges have sloped bottoms).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a working but nasty-looking fridge to save cash, it lives out of sight but a lick of paint covered up any &quot;beauty spots&quot; it had.  When I got it I cleaned the inside quite thouroughly - I don't think it matters to the sealed keg inside but nobody likes a fridge with gobs of old food stuck to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got the fridge, I recommend investing in a variable thermostat like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/fermenting-equipment/fermentation-temperature-control/johnson-refrigerator-thermostat.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tobins.com.au/HTML/ItemHTML/TS-040S.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; so you can use the fridge for fermentation as well as getting the perfect temperature for dispensing.  If you're going to grab one of these, you can even put it in a freezer if you find a better size / fit / price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T06:00:29.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4614" CreationDate="2011-07-05T00:30:05.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fridge is fine if you don't plan to use a temp controller with it.  My first keg fridge was a normal standing fridge. Worked great.  But now I use a small chest freezer with a temp controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were planning on using a temp controller then I'd go with a chest freezer.  Its just a little neater with the lines running around.  I find it easier to connect and disconnect the lines and play with releasing pressure when you have full access to the top of the kegs.  IN a standing fridge I always found myself having to pull a get out to get to it.  And the kegs in the back were always tough to get to.  With a chest freezer you open the top and have full access to any single keg at a time.  Much better IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T00:30:05.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4615" CreationDate="2011-07-05T12:38:56.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Naw if they have sunflower oil listed on them, then I'd eat them separately and find something else to put in the beer. Not sure if you guys have the Publix grocery store up in Boston, but they carry dried cherries that you can buy in bulk and only have one listed ingredient (&quot;dried cherries&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T12:38:56.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4623" CreationDate="2011-07-05T12:56:24.600" Score="7" ViewCount="8723" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad found an old Kimax (26500) 1000mL Erlenmeyer flask that has been in his attic for the last 30 or so years and gave it to me.   I'd like to start using this to make starters, in conjunction with a stir plate.   I am concerned about the ability of the glass to handle the heat from my electric (glass top) range, and then the cold of an ice water bath.   I'm pretty certain that these are used in a lab, but in my chemistry classes, we used gas for heating, rather than electric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly, I'd just like a little more confidence that the flask won't shatter while I'm in the midst of heating a starter.  Will it handle the direct heat from the electric stove top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2013-11-06T02:34:07.097" Title="Can I heat a starter in an erlenmeyer flask on an electric stove?" Tags="|yeast|equipment|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4620" CreationDate="2011-07-05T15:12:47.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wolfweb.unr.edu/~jacques/safety/glass_safety.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google research&lt;/a&gt; indicates the flask should be up to the heat, and more importantly the rapid change from boiling to ice bath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/erlenmeyer-flask-electric-stove-top-181445/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;discussion from homebrewers&lt;/a&gt; appears to back this up with experience, though several people indicate boil-overs are more of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I for one would avoid subjecting any glass to such extremes, as a pot works perfectly well for the boiling and cooling, at which point you can transfer to the flask, but I'm also recovering from a serious carboy shattering accident (dropped, not heat related), so my feelings about glass are biased.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T15:12:47.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4620" CreationDate="2011-07-05T15:55:43.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people do it.  After trying it a couple times, though, I stopped doing it.  The potential for a boilover is so great that it's not worth it to me.  In addition, I've heard too many stories of flasks cracking while on the stove, even though they supposedly shouldn't.  There are enough downsides that although it can theoretically be done, you should consider whether you're ready to accept the potential problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T15:55:43.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4620" CreationDate="2011-07-05T16:22:31.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite Kimax being a lab grade glass, you don't have lab grade heating equipment.  The problem I have found is that most electric stove users have the exposed metal coil that the pot or flask sits right on.  That contact doesn't happen in the lab environment.  In the lab we have heat plates that have a ceramic type cover between the glass flask and the heating element itself.  This evenly distributes the heat where your coils on the electric stove doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an electric stove that has coils embedded under a glass cook top, you are good to go.  I have been using some flasks this way for years not worries.  I do let it cool a little bit off the burner before dumping it ice cold water.  Even the best labware tends to weaken with such an extreme swing in temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its not part of your question, but 1L is sort of a small size to be boiling extract in.  Give it a try and watch it like a hawk.  The smaller opening is like putting a lid on boiling pasta or potatoes eventually it bubbles right over. (That's what Denny was concerned with in his answer).  You might be able to get away with some foam control.  I haven't tried it but a few buddies do and they seem to get by with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T16:22:31.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4614" CreationDate="2011-07-05T16:36:50.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For fermenting, I use a 4.x cubit foot &quot;dorm fridge&quot; commonly used by college students or single-room apartment dwellers. No need to buy a new one, just keep your eye on Craigs List or your local equivalent. When a posting appears, take a look at the fridge and make sure you can slide in a carboy or fermenting bucket. Mine has a top &quot;freezer&quot; rack that only comes down a few inches and was used to make ice cubes I guess. I ignore it, but on some models, this freezer space will be too big, and you won't be able to slide the carboy in. Keep in mind that you can cut the shelves out of the door itself if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For kegs, I'd go with a deep chest instead of a fridge. Again, look for used models first, but I ended up buying a new one that was slightly damaged from a big box retail place. You can totally trick out a chest freezer with tap handles and the like, if you are willing to build a wooden &quot;collar&quot; to go on top of the unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a chest freezer, you must weigh the cost of the unit versus how many kegs it will hold. I can't recall the dimensions of mine exactly, but it holds 3 kegs, a 5lb tank, and a secondary fermenter or a No Chill tank just fine. This suits my needs perfectly, and I'm glad I didn't skimp and get a smaller one just to save $50-60. A good suggestion is to make a couple of disks out of cardboard that are the diameter of your kegs. Then, if you are looking at a chest freezer and aren't sure how many kegs it will hold, pull out the disks and position them around to figure out the freezers capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure the chest freezer is tall enough to fit kegs with an inch or two extra for the gas/liquid ins/outs. If its not tall enough, then you will &lt;strong&gt;have&lt;/strong&gt; to build a collar, and that's kind of a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T16:36:50.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4626" CreationDate="2011-07-05T16:50:38.180" Score="9" ViewCount="1615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000291GBQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this burner&lt;/a&gt; and was excited to use it to bring my wort to a boil. I had it cranked up pretty high and it took about 15 minutes to bring 6 gallons of wort to a rolling boil in a stainless steel kettle. Is there an ideal time it should take to bring the wort to a boil? If I boil it too quickly is it possible that I'll burn the wort? Is there a way to tell if I am burning my wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T17:49:23.967" Title="Is it possible to boil wort too quickly?" Tags="|beer|boil|propane-burner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4625" CreationDate="2011-07-05T17:49:23.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commercial micro-brewers can bring 10 barrels (2880 pints) to the boil in 30 - 45 mins using a gas jet of flame in a pipe that passes through the kettle - can't remember the technical name for it. What they do do, though, is recirculate the wort whilst they heat. This will keep it on the move and prevent hot spots/scorching/caramelising and any other problems that might occur from high temperatures acting on the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I think you should be careful if you use too high a heat to boil it quickly. Consider keeping it on the move. I am sure overheating will be apparent by dark deposits on the 'hot' zone of your kettle. These deposits can contain carcinogens, so it is best not to let them build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T17:49:23.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2011-07-05T23:39:06.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earlier this year, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Basic Brewing Radio&lt;/a&gt; covered this exact topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.libsyn.com/media/basicbrewing/bbr02-24-11lageralts.mp3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Basic Brewing Radio&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T18:22:16.957" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T18:22:16.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4633" CreationDate="2011-07-06T22:14:39.727" Score="10" ViewCount="5208" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summer brewing means warmer tap water, which means that my immersion chiller can only cool the wort to about 75 degrees.  I typically cool the wort to 68 degrees before pitching.  I have a fermentation chiller that will cool the wort by about one degree per hour.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be better to pitch at the higher temperature, then cool the wort and yeast over the next 8 hours or so, or would it be better to cool the wort to 68 degrees with no yeast, then add the yeast about 8 hours later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T15:48:28.317" Title="Long cooling before pitching" Tags="|beer|yeast|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4629" CreationDate="2011-07-06T22:20:53.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you are down to ideal fermentation temp within 24hrs, you should be ok.  I usually pitch at 78 then move it to a temp controlled freezer, and I have never had any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1522" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T22:20:53.030" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4629" CreationDate="2011-07-06T23:02:39.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My immersion chiller doesn't get me much below 72 in the summer, so I chill it down to whatever temperature I want to get to by immersing the kettle in an ice bath to help things along while the chiller does its part (I have a large &quot;cube&quot; cooler that the kettle fits into very well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for many yeast strains there are good reasons to get down well below 68 to start fermentation.  I recently brewed a Kölsch where the optimal temperature range is around 58-60, and it's important to pitch close to that range if you mean to keep things there for a couple of weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess what I'm saying is it depends on the yeast you're using. With strains like US-05 I've never had a problem pitching in the 72-74 range and lowering fermentation to below 68 within a day or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T23:02:39.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2297" CreationDate="2011-07-07T00:17:27.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easier to capture the yeast and store in several sterile containers for re use later on, I use liquid yeast up tp 3 times each container&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1523" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T00:17:27.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4629" CreationDate="2011-07-07T15:10:29.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On several occasions I have cooled with my IC the best I could say to 75F in the summer.  Then I put the wort in my fermentation fridge until ti gets to 68F or 65F, for example.  I usually don't wait for it to happen I just let it go overnight.  Then I pitch the next morning.  It could be 8-12 hours later.&#xA;As long as your sanitation is spot on there won't be a problem waiting to pitch if you are still actively trying to cool the wort.&#xA;Pitching at fermentation temps, or slightly below your desired fermentation temp, is becoming the standard best practice I believe.  And it works for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as the yeast are trying to become active, a drop in temperature tells them that the environment is changing in a way where they might want to become dormant.  Some strains are more sensitive to that drop than others.  Another reason why its best to pitch at fermentation temp or slightly below it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T15:10:29.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4629" CreationDate="2011-07-07T15:45:55.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first 72 hours after pitching the yeast are the most critical in terms of flavor development.  If the wort is too warm during that period, you can develop off flavors.  It is much better to cool the wort before pitching (using your usual excellent sanitation procedures) than to pitch and then cool it down.  I have my own sorry experience to back that up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T15:45:55.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4629" CreationDate="2011-07-07T15:48:28.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problems with chilling? Then don't chill! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=no%20chill%20brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;No Chill Brewing&lt;/a&gt; for the win!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously. I get great results No Chilling, including with 100% Pilsner Beers. No DMS or off flavors. Those crazy Aussie bastards changed my brew practices permanently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T15:48:28.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2297" CreationDate="2011-07-07T15:49:55.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I already do all my fermentation in a single container and capture the yeast for reuse and I don't use a conical...I use buckets.  Other than the cool factor, I really don't see any advantages to using a conical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T15:49:55.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4639" CreationDate="2011-07-07T18:58:00.710" Score="5" ViewCount="1172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to make a rye pale ale. Do I need to provide enough base grains to convert the starches in flaked rye or is it capable of self conversion? If it needs conversion, would 6 lbs of 6-row work for 2.5 lbs of rye?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T15:59:27.447" Title="Does flaked rye need conversion?" Tags="|beer|mash|rye|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4637" CreationDate="2011-07-07T20:02:48.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flaked rye (unmalted) has a low diastatic power, so it would definitely need some base malt (6-row would work fine) for starch conversion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, generally flaked rye is used for taste, and not as much for its starch content. If you are doing a mash anyway, you might as well throw it in, &lt;strike&gt;but if you are using it to flavor an extract brew, you can just steep it as you would any other specialty grain.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Thanks Denny, you are definitely right on this. Don't steep, do a partial mash if you want rye in an extract brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastEditorUserId="678" LastEditDate="2011-07-08T04:19:37.577" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T04:19:37.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4637" CreationDate="2011-07-07T20:20:04.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flaked rye needs to be converted.  6 lbs of either 2-row or 6-row would be plenty to convert 2.5lbs of rye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-07-08T15:59:27.447" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T15:59:27.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4637" CreationDate="2011-07-07T21:55:46.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd use 2 row instead of 6 row unless you want the grainy flavor you get from 6 row.  You don't need 6 row for enzymes.  2 row has plenty of diastatic power without having to resort to 6 row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T21:55:46.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4564" CreationDate="2011-07-08T04:06:32.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are almost exactly describing &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Designing Great Beers by Ray Daniels&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This book has two parts.  The first part goes into the science of malt, hops, water, etc.  The second part describes all the classic styles, going into history, technical parameters, and ingredients that have won NHC competitions.  The history is always very well researched (he cites all his sources) and very interesting.  The technical style descriptions are highly useful also - a good friend recently won a gold medal at NHC by simply making a recipe using the parameters provided in this text (and perhaps also being a fantastic brewer ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T04:06:32.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-08T05:02:57.803" Score="8" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just picked up my Better Bottle Carboy... and will be racking to it in a few days. I have a few questions to ask since I did not use a secondary during my first few batches:&#xA;1) Do I add yeast at this point too? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Any considerations when I add a fruit puree?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any help you guys/gals can send my way!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1532" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T12:06:59.237" Title="Steps in Secondary Fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|secondary|fruit|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4642" CreationDate="2011-07-08T12:06:59.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need to add more yeast.    Assuming that the beer has been in your primary vessel for 1-4 weeks, you'll have plenty of yeast left to consume any additional sugars from the fruit puree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would sanitize the bottle and the puree container, add the puree to the bottle, and then rack the beer into the bottle.   This will get the puree stirred into the bottle well.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T12:06:59.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="37" CreationDate="2011-07-08T14:07:55.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a page with probably everything you'd want to know about decoction mashing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Decoction_Mashing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Decoction_Mashing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T14:07:55.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4646" CreationDate="2011-07-08T18:04:09.723" Score="5" ViewCount="1837" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've been doing all grain for quite some time now, but I've always &quot;winged it&quot; in regards to my water chemistry. I've been using a mix of Reverse Osmosis and Spring water, which gives good results for pale beers (hefe, lagers, blondes), but my darker beers and IPAs have sometimes come out a little astringent. I suspect my mash pH isn't being controlled properly and so I want to figure out how to monitor and control my mash pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what kinds of tools do you guys use to (a) measure your mash pH, and (b) correct pH when needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How reliable are those little pH strips vs a &quot;real&quot; pH meter? If I need a real meter, can I get one of the $20-30 ones, or are those a waste? The meters get pretty expensive pretty quick and I have no idea which one I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are pretty much all mashes supposed to be around 5.2 pH? I'd love it if someone could chime in with the appropriate pH range, and what they do to correct their pH if its over or under their target?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T22:19:13.790" Title="pH Meters and measuring mash pH for the first time" Tags="|equipment|water|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4645" CreationDate="2011-07-08T18:12:48.357" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used strips for years before I got a meter.  They can work well, but I recommend only using the colorPhast strips, which are pretty expensive.  The cheaper ones just aren't accurate I've found.  I now use pH meter.  Don't get a cheapo meter...you'll just be wasting your money.  Your pH should be 5.2-5.4 measured at room temp (around 70F).  I use lactic or phospohoric acid, gypsum, CaCl2, CaCO3 and pickling lime mainly to adjust the pH.  You shouldn't mess with pH or water treatments, though, without getting a water analysis to know what your starting point is.  I recommend www.wardlab.com for water testing.  Get test W-6 which runs about $16.  If you email them and tell them you're a homebrewer they have special instructions and info available.  I also recommend you download the free spreadsheet at &lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&quot;&gt;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&lt;/a&gt; .  Not only does it help you calculate your water additions, there's a greta section of water info included with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T18:12:48.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="156" CreationDate="2011-07-08T18:14:21.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best place I've found for water testing is &lt;a href=&quot;http://wardlab.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.wardlab.com&lt;/a&gt;.  Get test W-6.  It runs about $16 and gives you all the info you need for brewing.  If you tell them you're a homebrewer, they have special info available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2017-02-18T16:29:19.337" LastActivityDate="2017-02-18T16:29:19.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="37" CreationDate="2011-07-08T18:18:36.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A decoction mash will not extract tannins because the pH of the mash is too low.  For a single decoction, you boil the grain, leaving as much of the liquid behind as possible.  The enzymes remain in the liquid, not the grain, so you will not denature them by boiling.  If you do a second or 3rd decoction, you include more liquid.  At that point, conversion is pretty much done and denaturing enzymes isn't much of an issue.  Contrary to brewing myth, pH is much more of a factor with tannins than temp.  the effects of decoction are very debatable.  Many test have found that tasters don't really find a difference (or improvement) in flavor from a decoction.  Here's one experiment I did.  Start on pg. 25...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ahaconference.org/wp-content/uploads/presentations/2008/DennyConn.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ahaconference.org/wp-content/uploads/presentations/2008/DennyConn.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T18:18:36.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4645" CreationDate="2011-07-08T21:53:36.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flinn Scientific is a great and inexpensive source for pocket pH meters that are used in high school and college chemistry classes. Flinn is a low profit company (started by a former high school teacher who was tired of being overcharged by the main chemical supply companies) and provides excellent equipment at the lowest prices. I use one of these and as pocket pH meters go, it is very accurate, good resolution (2 decimal places) and easy to maintain. Here is a link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flinnsci.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=17142&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flinnsci.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=17142&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key is to make certain that your solution is right at 70-72 F when measuring the pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T21:53:36.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4620" CreationDate="2011-07-08T22:22:22.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for scratches in the flask before doing the hot then cold immersion thing. Kimax as well as Pyrex will deeply crack or burst suddenly when there are scratches and hairline cracks in these conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T22:22:22.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4653" CreationDate="2011-07-09T00:51:28.027" Score="7" ViewCount="814" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often when I pour a sample to be measured, there is a good 1cm of head obscuring the SG value. It can stay around for quite some time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I leave it overnight in order to take the reading the next morning without some mysterious (ie unknown to me) process changing the gravity giving me an incorrect reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T21:14:05.783" Title="Can I measure specific gravity a day after sampling?" Tags="|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4657" CreationDate="2011-07-09T01:49:14.860" Score="5" ViewCount="1969" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a whole lot of experience (I've been brewing all-grain for less than a year) but I've found that every beer I've made with Munich or Vienna malt (usually 2 - 4 pounds in a 6-gallon batch) has a sort of pervading dullness about it.  I've been extremely pleased with most of the beers I've made, but the ones with Munich or Vienna have simply left me unimpressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else experienced this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T04:00:48.120" Title="Munich and Vienna Malts - Dullness" Tags="|beer|flavor|all-grain|malt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4651" CreationDate="2011-07-09T01:55:30.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about a sample of wort before you've pitched the yeast, then I think the only thing to skew a next-day reading would be a wild yeast or bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about a sample of fermenting beer, then the yeast will be making the gravity go lower while the sample sits waiting for you to read it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T01:55:30.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4435" CreationDate="2011-07-09T04:42:00.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure. Shiner Bock is a ghettoized lager. A bock is a strong German lager, but if you've ever had Shiner Bock you know that's something a bit different... Fireman #4 is a blonde ale. I'm with baka, can you give us a description of this aftertaste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1427" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T04:42:00.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4651" CreationDate="2011-07-09T18:59:41.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overnight, you would probably see a slight increase in gravity in a wort sample, due to evaporation of the water (and thus concentration of the sugar).   I don't think that's enough time for any wild yeast or bacteria to get enough of a foothold to alter the gravity significantly (which would be downward pressure, as opposed to the upward pressure of evaporation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could cover your sample glass with some sanitized plastic wrap or use a canning jar with a lid though, which would probably prevent both things that might alter the gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T18:59:41.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4652" CreationDate="2011-07-09T21:53:33.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly what's happening is that the increased maltiness from the Munich and Vienna is offsetting the hops and making the beer seem less balanced.  Yeah, it's a long shot, but based on what you're tasting could it be something like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T21:53:33.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4660" CreationDate="2011-07-10T03:29:28.760" Score="7" ViewCount="908" Body="&lt;p&gt;When chilling the wort after a boil, if it falls below the yeast's operating temperature, should I wait until the temperature comes back up before adding the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically chill my wort with a cool water bath in the sink and then mix it with chilled water that I keep in the refrigerator, and on my last brew the temp dropped down to around 60° F (15.5° C). once I added the chilled water, so I'm wondering if its still ok to add the yeast at this point knowing that it will soon be back up to room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="955" LastEditorUserId="1508" LastEditDate="2011-07-10T17:50:53.647" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T17:50:53.647" Title="Can a wort be cooled too much?" Tags="|wort|temperature|chilling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4651" CreationDate="2011-07-10T04:05:01.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I use a small graduated cylinder to take readings. You fill the cylinder to just below the top and then when you put your hydrometer in, a small amount spills over but the hydrometer reading and top of the beer level are all at the top of the cylinder. (the slight spill over gets rid of foam) I will also then simply drink what is in the cylinder for a taste test as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T04:05:01.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4658" CreationDate="2011-07-10T05:57:16.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperatures &lt;strong&gt;above&lt;/strong&gt; a yeast's ideal range are not desired as they can cause off-flavours, temperatures &lt;strong&gt;below&lt;/strong&gt; the advertised range will just put the yeast to &quot;sleep&quot;, so should be safe to proceed.  Going too low (sub-zero C) can potentially kill the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using a starter, I'd aim to keep the temperatures equal to avoid shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T05:57:16.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4651" CreationDate="2011-07-10T21:14:05.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the foamy head is the only thing that's bothering you about the sample, then I suggest rubbing a little oil, Fermcap-S, or dish soap on the inside the sample cylinder. After all, we spend a lot of time figuring out what messes with the head on our beers, so we might as well use that knowledge of how to loose head to our advantage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T21:14:05.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4663" CreationDate="2011-07-11T17:42:27.150" Score="14" ViewCount="9304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased my first kit and am about to brew it (tonight!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions provided indicate that after cooling the wort and tranfering it to the sanitized carboy I need to top it off with cold water.  It seems like this is just &lt;em&gt;asking&lt;/em&gt; to introduce non-desirable organism to the beer. (or not quite yet, beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)  Should I boil the top-off water and cool it, before adding?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2)  If not, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1537" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-07-11T17:54:46.350" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T19:58:17.647" Title="Do I need to sterilize my top-off water?" Tags="|beer|boil|sanitation|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4662" CreationDate="2011-07-11T17:59:39.257" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I did extract I tended to just go from the tap right into the fermentor with the wort.  I can't say that I ever had a bad batch because of it.  But it certainly can happen.  If you have a way to boil water for 15 minutes, then store it in a sanitary and sealed contain while it cools back down to a useable temperature...that is the safer way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are pitching enough yeast then its probably not a huge concern as you are getting started.  And if this is your first batch I bet your LHBS has given you one packet of yeast or a tube of yeast and that's it.  WHICH IS FINE FOR NOW, don't fret over the amount of yeast to pitch yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say to just go for it unless your water comes from a well or something.  Municipal tap water should be pretty clean.  If you pick up a contaminant its likely happening right at the faucet, not from in the line. Just be sure you don't have dirty dishes and sponges splashing around in the sink as you get the water for top off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you'll be fine from the tap until you are ready to move up a little bit in techniques and process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T17:59:39.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4662" CreationDate="2011-07-11T18:07:12.357" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I did extract, we always used a jug spring water to top off the extra few gallons. You can sanitize the bottle mouth with some StarSan or other sanitizing solution, and then just pour the bottle in. You can also keep the jug in the fridge prior to use to cool your wort when you add it. This way you avoid boiling anything, but are still pretty safe from contaminants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T18:07:12.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4668" CreationDate="2011-07-11T18:12:51.437" Score="7" ViewCount="2362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought two packs of the American Ale Propogator yesterday, but then took a bit longer than planned to get home and the packs got warm and were swelled a bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put them in the fridge as soon as I got home, wondering if they are still OK to use or if I should get more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1151" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T20:33:17.190" Title="WYeast got warm on the way home. Can I still use it?" Tags="|yeast|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4665" CreationDate="2011-07-11T18:26:17.067" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;They probably used a bit of their glycogen reserves when they warmed up, but as long as they were cooled down again fairly quickly they should be fine. I am guessing you will be using a starter, since you are using a Propagator, so if they seem to have any problem in the starter, they may have used up too much of their stored reserves and you'll need to buy more, but I'm guessing they are ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T18:26:17.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4665" CreationDate="2011-07-11T20:33:17.190" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Wyeast liquid yeast can survive warmer temperatures for some time and still be viable. Although the longer they are kept above 40F the less viable they will become.  The only way to know for sure is to activate the pack and see if it expands due to activity.  I would advise you do this before you start brewing to confirm that you have active yeast to pitch when you are finished.  If the yeast is not active I would postpone brewing until replacement yeast is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few yeast strains that Wyeast produces that have a tendency to inflate partially prior to activation and 1056 American Ale is the prime suspect.  The slight inflation is due to residual CO2 in solution left over from propagation being released.  Wyeast has a process to remove most of the CO2 prior to packaging but for some reason 1056 wants to hold on to some.  The CO2 is released when the temp is raised and the package is agitated, this happens quite often when shipping the yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The swelling can also be attributed to minimal amounts of propagation media making it into the package.  In this case the swelling is actually a sign of healthy yeast that is more active due the increase in temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case it is best to refrigerate as soon as possible. You should also try and use any yeast exposed to extreme temperatures as soon as possible or to make a yeast starter to build up the yeast cell count.  A starter can be made immediately and then stored in the refrigerator for a few weeks before pitching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T20:33:17.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4670" CreationDate="2011-07-12T18:22:55.417" Score="9" ViewCount="3253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to start my first beer and I've been doing lots of research.. but a question I haven't seen answered is why isn't there more contamination during primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For secondary the carboy, bung and co2 release seem like a closed system without the possibility for contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But during primary, it's a garbage pail with a lid.  What's preventing undesirables from getting in the brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1508" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:44:41.833" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T13:44:55.217" Title="What prevents contamination during primary fermentation?" Tags="|primary|contamination|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4669" CreationDate="2011-07-12T18:36:42.720" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically the process of fermentation is what prevents undesirable organisms from taking hold and multiplying in your primary fermenter.  As the yeast reproduce they in effect take over the environment and dominate any undesirable organisms present.  The production of CO2 also drives the impurities to the top where it creates a blanket over the beer which combats most airborne bugs.  Also as the level of alcohol increases it makes it more difficult for foreign organisms to survive let alone multiply.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many professional brewers that use open fermenters for primary so a closed system is not necessary to keep the bugs out.  A little more care is needed in secondary since there is alcohol present and exposure to air will cause oxidation.  This is why a closed system for secondary is more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T18:36:42.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4669" CreationDate="2011-07-12T18:37:50.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, typically it's a little more than a garbage pail with a lid! It's food grade plastic with smooth surfaces and no major scratches so that it can be well cleaned and sanitized. The lid is airtight and the airlock keeps microorganisms out. The real key is good cleaning and sanitization of all your equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even with good sanitation, often something can slip in. Even if something undesirable makes it into the wort, it would have a tough time getting a foothold in the environment. Alpha acids from the hops have antibacterial properties against Gram-positive bacteria, but have less effect on yeast, promoting yeast development over other organisms. Within a day or two, alcohol content is high enough to discourage infection as well. Most undesirables that make it into the container will be outcompeted by the yeast or killed off by the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T18:37:50.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4669" CreationDate="2011-07-12T18:42:10.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic primary fermenters are made of a food-grade plastic that resists contamination.  The plastic has few surface imperfections that would allow bacteria and unwanted yeast to camp out for the next big lunch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cleaning agents used in preparing brewing equipment are &lt;em&gt;brutal&lt;/em&gt;.  PBW, for example, will take out any organic substance upon which the &quot;bad bugs&quot; will feed, and kill most of them as well.  Combine that with an Oxygen sanitizer, and you've effectively wiped them all out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitching yeast is like a brute force attack.  Even when just using a dry yeast packet, you are outnumbering contaminants by a factor of around a billion to one.  The yeast will multiply and use up all the sugar before the bad bugs have a chance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T18:42:10.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4673" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-12T19:15:15.497" Score="7" ViewCount="4606" Body="&lt;p&gt;The IPA I made has been sitting in bottles for 2 weeks around 73-75F and is not carbonating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I did prior to bottling was I cold crashed the secondary for about 1 day to get some floating dry hop residue to settle.  I wonder if this made too much of the yeast settle out, affecting the carbonation now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some dry yeast on hand.  Is it appropriate to open the bottles add a few grains of dry yeast to them and recap?  Has anyone attempted this, or have any other suggestions?  the flavor and bitterness of this beer is actually very good right now, considering it is flat, it just needs to be carbonated.  It would be a shame to dump this batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1176" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-07-31T09:29:14.440" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T16:06:15.863" Title="Beer not carbonating" Tags="|carbonation|ipa|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4673" CreationDate="2011-07-12T19:30:47.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, wait another week. Sometimes it can be slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that's not the problem, the first suggestion would be to gently swirl the bottles individually to try and rouse some yeast. Cold crashing shouldn't have knocked them all out of suspension. It may have taken some of them out, but there still should be plenty to carb. Swirl, wait a week, and open one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like your carbing temperature is good, so that's not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you certain you remembered priming sugar? Not trying to be a smarty, but just something to ponder back on. If you possibly underused the sugar, you could try some carbonation drops - they work quite nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most importantly, give it at least 3 weeks. Yeast work on their own schedule, unfortunately!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T19:30:47.203" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4669" CreationDate="2011-07-12T20:38:34.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every batch of homebrew is contaminated.  You can't hope to have zero airborne contaminants in your wort especially with it just sitting there mostly open during the chill process. (depending on how you chill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said brewers yeast loves wort.  Brewers yeast starts to create an undesirable environment for wild yeasts and bacteria.  Primarily through lowering the pH, then buy using up nutrients and lastly creating alcohols.  These things do not necessarily kill wild contaminants, but they create a static growth environ for them.  The use of hops also has a bacteria-static force on the contaminants too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your wort is contaminated.  And what little contaminants are in there, they do start to multiply early on, just as the yeast are trying to as well.  But my pitching the proper amount of yeast that lag is short and the good things listed above start to happen.  Brewers yeast simply wins out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Wort is acidic also which tends to help as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T20:38:34.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4677" CreationDate="2011-07-12T20:39:00.437" Score="7" ViewCount="3601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a &quot;Belgian IPA&quot; a few weeks ago, and now that it's carbonated, I get a flavor that is eerily reminiscent of the pink bubblegum medicine that I used to get when I was sick and under 10 years old.   I'm pretty certain it was caused by the combination of Belgian yeast (repitched blend of Wyeast 3787 and Safbrew T-58) and American hops (Amarillo &amp;amp; Centennial), but I'd like to know if this flavor is likely to drop out before the hop aroma has diminished appreciably or if I'm stuck with bitter bubblegum beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE, July 31&lt;/strong&gt;:  After another 18 days in the refrigerator, the bubblegum flavor has dropped out significantly, and while still noticeable, is more of a slight fruitiness than full on bubblegum medicine.   My guess is that the amount of flavor was due to yeast still being in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-07-31T14:57:52.603" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T08:51:40.967" Title="Will a &quot;pink bubblegum medicine&quot; flavor dissipate?" Tags="|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4676" CreationDate="2011-07-12T21:04:31.487" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bubblegum flavor is an ester commonly produced by Belgian yeast. Some of this esters will be processed by the yeast that's left in the bottle over time, but I'm guessing that for the most part the flavor will be there to stay. A longer secondary fermentation could help to clear or diminish the flavor, but now that you are bottled I don't think it will drop appreciably until most of your hop aroma has gone as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's much easier to control ester formation, through proper pitching rates, sufficient oxygen, and temperature control during fermentation than it is to get rid of them once you have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the yeast you used, I would suspect the Safbrew as the culprit. Wyeast 3787 has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.highgravitybrew.com/productcart/pc/Wyeast-Trappist-High-Gravity-3787-125ml-137p1585.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;low bubblegum ester production&lt;/a&gt;, I had no problems with bubblegum flavor in the Belgian Strong Ale that I made with it. Safbrew T-58 looks like it is known for strong ester production, including &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hoggetowne.com/1878.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bubblegum and banana esters&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastEditorUserId="678" LastEditDate="2011-07-12T21:10:34.430" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T21:10:34.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4676" CreationDate="2011-07-12T21:04:45.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely that the flavor was caused by too high a fermentation temp.  It might moderate to some extent with cold conditioning, but in my experience it's unlikely that it will ever go away.  FWIW, I just kegged a beer made with 3787 and kept under 65F during the entire fermentation.  Not a hint of bubblegum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T21:04:45.073" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4673" CreationDate="2011-07-13T13:43:19.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cold crash likely just shocked your yeast into dormancy a bit.  If you added an appropriate amount of priming sugar they should carbonate.  It will just take more time.  I always found two weeks a little short for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you notice there is plenty of yeast on the bottom of the bottles you can gently invert them and rouse the yeast up into the beer.  They'll spring back to life enough to carb things up and settle out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rouse and give it another couple weeks.  I bet it will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T13:43:19.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4681" CreationDate="2011-07-13T16:17:08.127" Score="5" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the appropriate way to ramp temper when say brewing a Belgian beer?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Would I expect to have off flavors from the higher temps?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What's the best range for ramping?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Do I actively manage the temp myself or can I hold the temp cool with a fermentation fridge then let it free rise?  When do I start the rise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T17:12:23.070" Title="Ramping temperatures during fermentation" Tags="|beer|fermentation|techniques|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2011-07-13T17:12:23.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a Belgian beer, I prefer to start the temp in the low-mid 60s for the first 3-5 (maybe as many as 7) days .  After that, I let the beer free rise, shooting for a final temp around the low 70s.  The majority of fusels and disagreeable esters are created in the first few days, so after that there should be no negative affect on flavor by letting the temp rise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T17:12:23.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4683" CreationDate="2011-07-13T17:29:07.653" Score="7" ViewCount="4381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes make alcoholic ginger beer and alcoholic lemonade. How would one estimate the abv of something like that? Is it even possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastEditorUserId="678" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T18:04:08.467" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T18:04:08.467" Title="Measuring the ABV of non beer/wine products" Tags="|alcohol-content|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4682" CreationDate="2011-07-13T17:39:43.073" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yup, it can be easily measured using a hydrometer. Simply take a specific gravity reading before pitching yeast and after fermentation is complete. Find the difference between the two values, this will be proportional to the amount of sugar the yeast has converted to alcohol. Multiply this number by 131 and you get the ABV. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You brew a ginger beer with original gravity (OG) of 1.09. After fermentation the final gravity (FG) is 1.01. The alcohol by volume is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV = (OG - FG)*131 = (1.09-1.01)*131 = .08*131 = 10.48%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you don't have a hydrometer, you can make some educated guesses. If you know about how much sugar you are have, you can estimate the starting gravity using the specific gravity yield of the kind of sugar you are using. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could go over the math for this, but if you want to make it easy on yourself, just use &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Calculus&lt;/a&gt;. Just add your ingredients and it will estimate OG, FG, and ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastEditorUserId="678" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T17:51:21.613" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T17:51:21.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="909" CreationDate="2011-07-13T19:46:37.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took a class at a local homebrew supply.. the person in charge of the class said the &quot;beer&quot; should almost fill the carboy, leaving little air in the carboy and limiting the chances of contamination. I followed this direction and the fermentation that took place started to enter bubbler..... so I poored a few oz out. Thanks to this episode I will not leave a good amount of room in the carboy for fermentation to take place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1532" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T19:46:37.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4687" CreationDate="2011-07-14T18:20:36.640" Score="7" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of kits and adds online to brew your own beer, but they don't seem all that easy or great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And any suggestions on what kit(s) to start with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much should I plan to spend to get my a brew that will actually taste good to me and friends I share it with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1541" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:41:56.870" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T18:32:47.183" Title="The right first kit?" Tags="|equipment|kits|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4685" CreationDate="2011-07-14T18:28:18.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need a kit, just go to a homebrewing store and buy all the equipment, it's &#xA;about $100 for all equipment etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;look here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/1/1530&quot;&gt;What equipment do I need to buy to start making beer?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T18:36:01.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4685" CreationDate="2011-07-14T18:38:53.973" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skip the Mr. Beer kind of kits and go to a local Home Brew Supply shop. They'll sell you a brew kit for $75-$140 depending on how nice you want it. My local place had a deal for a while where you got your first recipe either free or deeply discounted when you bought a full kit, so that was nice. The actual kit you need isn't all that important, believe it or not. They are pretty much all the same: 6gal carboy, bottle capper, big carboy brush, tubing (sometimes), airlock &amp;amp; bung, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest issues with making your first batch something that your friends will like are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) Recipe selection&lt;/strong&gt;. For a general crowd pleaser, I'd go with an American Wheat beer. Every homebrew shop has a recipe for this and they're pretty easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) Fermentation temperatures&lt;/strong&gt;. 65F is a general rule for the proper temp for your standard ales. And remember, 65F air temp outside the carboy is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; same as 65F inside the carboy. Meaning you can't just set your A/C to 65F and think it's all ok. Fermenting beer can reach 5-10 degrees above the temp of the room its in. Make sure you get a thermometer strip to stick on the outside of your carboy. That will tell you the beer's temp much better than just the temp of the air in the room. Put the carboy/bucket into a big beverage cooler or tub, fill it halfway with water, and throw some ice packs in there once a day. That's the best way to start off brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other minor points:&lt;/strong&gt; Make sure to get non-expired brewer's yeast in a dry packet from the homebrew store, it will look like a pack of bread yeast. Liquid yeast gives you more options, but for your first batch, its just too much of a hassle. Also, give it 3 full weeks in the carboy to ferment before touching it at all. Don't follow any advice that tells you to &quot;rack to secondary after a week.&quot; That's old brewing dogma that has been proven unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T12:21:18.157" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T12:21:18.157" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4662" CreationDate="2011-07-14T19:58:17.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question. I have never topped-off from tap water for paranoia of contamination of the final batch. &lt;em&gt;Perhaps&lt;/em&gt; the likelihood of contamination is very low, but why take the risk? Also, the more water you are topping off with, the greater your risk increases. So, to answer your question I personally would  boil and cool your top-off water, or use bottled water from an unopened bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T19:58:17.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4685" CreationDate="2011-07-15T14:35:05.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recomend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-online-homebrew-company.co.uk/shop/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=599&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brubox&lt;/a&gt; as a good starter kit. Its cheap and has all the equipment you need to get going with simple instructions. I wouldent recomend it for long term though, the batch size is fairly small and the price per pint works out quite a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T14:35:05.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4692" CreationDate="2011-07-15T16:16:21.090" Score="9" ViewCount="10330" Body="&lt;p&gt;My most recent batch I tried almond extract, but I'm not getting the nuttiness I expected. I've heard using different malts can get different nutty flavors but how can I get a rich nutty flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:42:32.023" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:42:32.023" Title="How do I achieve a nuttier flavor?" Tags="|flavor|troubleshooting|malt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2011-07-15T16:42:20.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend taking a look at this list of popular ingredients that I just found: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beertools.com/html/ingredients.php?view=grains&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.beertools.com/html/ingredients.php?view=grains&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;American Caramel 60°L seems to give you that nutty flavor you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also to get a better idea of how the nutty flavor is achieved, you might want to check out: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/wizard/article/section/121-mr-wizard/1618-what-ingredients-produce-the-nutty-flavor-in-a-nut-brown-ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.byo.com/stories/wizard/article/section/121-mr-wizard/1618-what-ingredients-produce-the-nutty-flavor-in-a-nut-brown-ale&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1541" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T16:42:20.507" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2011-07-15T17:07:11.393" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rich nutty flavor comes from a combination of a little roast/toasted malt and some biscuity strong malty notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get roasted/toasted from things like toasted malt, pale chocolate or chocolate malt (used in moderation).&#xA;You can get the malt/biscuit thing from munich malts, and biscuit/victory malt. (Granted biscuit and munich don't taste the same, but I lumped them in together for the purpose of this discussion)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the style beer you are making though on how much and which malts you chose.  If we are talking about Nut Brown then chocolate, victory and munich is just what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other malts to consider may be special roast (not special B) and melanoidin malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the malts I have worked with and gotten the most nutty flavor out of in things like brown ales, dark Amber, Porter or stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T17:07:11.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4693" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-15T19:50:40.867" Score="19" ViewCount="1866" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often drink a bottle 2 or 3 days after bottling, and then often every day or 2 after that, and it's sometimes quite amazing to see those &quot;rough edges&quot; getting smoothed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain what happens during that first week or two after bottling, which transforms &quot;green&quot; beer into mature beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T22:55:22.143" Title="What happens in the bottle?" Tags="|beer|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4652" CreationDate="2011-07-16T00:10:01.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing I've been wondering is if I need to do these beers as proper lagers.  I've been doing them as pseudo-lagers (usually Nottingham yeast at as-low-as-I-can-easily-get temperatures).  This is working great (as far as my taste buds are concerned) with the pilsners/light lagers I've been doing, but maybe I just can't get away with this slap-dash approach with my beers with munich and vienna?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T00:10:01.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4685" CreationDate="2011-07-16T02:33:35.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that Mr Beer kits get downplayed here. But for $25 you can get complete kits (equipment and ingredients) that will allow the beginner to see if they really want to mess with brewing. I started with one and still use the keg as a secondary at times. After I realized that bottling wasn't as big a chore as I thought, I bought a hardware kit at the local brew supply for $80 (they gave me credit for the bottling tools that I had purchased from them previously), and was set up to do priming, primary, and secondary brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW - instead of buying Mr Beer ingredient kits after the first batch that was included, I bought the ingredients separately for a couple more batches before taking the plunge into advanced equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T02:33:35.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4652" CreationDate="2011-07-16T04:00:48.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long are you mashing? If, for example, you mash for 60 minutes using American 2-Row Pale as a base and for the same amount of time with Munich, you might not be converting all of the sugars you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? Enzymes. To put it simply, Munich malt (and to a lesser extent, Vienna) has lower diastatic power than American 2-Row. It will take longer to convert starch into fermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weyermann's Munich II has a diastatic power of 25 Lintner. Briess 2-Row Pale has a diastatic power of 85 Lintner (Weyermann Vienna has 50).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen multiple sources--though admittedly they might all come from the same origin--that say you should try to aim for about 25-35 °L per pound of grain in your mash. My results tend to show that you can completely ignore any grain that doesn't need to be mashed (e.g. crystal, chocolate, etc.) when calculating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quick way to calculate this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add up how many pounds of grain you have that needs to be mashed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find out the diastatic power of each grain (available online or in an app like BeerSmith). Multiply that diastatic power by how many pounds of each grain you are using and add them all up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divide the diastatic power by the pounds of grain. If it's above ~30, you should be fine, but you might want to increase your mash time to ensure proper conversion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use an example, I have a beer I'm brewing tomorrow that uses Munich II as a base and includes Aromatic, which must be mashed. All my other ingredients don't require mashing, so I'm ignoring them for my calculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pounds of Grain: 8 pounds Munich II + 0.5 lbs Aromatic = 8.5 lbs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total Diastatic Power: (8 lbs x 25 °L) [for Munich II] + (0.5 lbs x 30 °L) [for Aromatic] = &#xA;215&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diastatic Power for this Mash: 215 °L / 8.5 lbs = ~25.3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's on the low end. Sometimes that means I'll add a little something with a lot of diastatic power (such as Briess 6-Row Brewers Malt, which has a diastatic power of 160 °L). What I usually do, though, is extend my mash time by 30-60 minutes. That usually serves me well and it doesn't alter the flavor of my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T04:00:48.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2011-07-16T04:37:53.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Victory, Biscuit, Amber, Brown, Chocolate, Special Roast, Roasted Wheat, some Light Munichs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm aiming for nutty, I tend to go for a combination of Victory and Chocolate or Roasted Barley for a nice dry, biscuity, nutty flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Want to rock a delicious nut brown? Try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;75% British Pale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7.5% Victory&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5% Crystal 60&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5% Crystal 30&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5% Special Roast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.5% Roasted Barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hops: E.K. Goldings or similar (e.g. Fuggles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast: Something British, like WLP002 or WLP005 (if you want to go a little dryer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T04:37:53.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4620" CreationDate="2011-07-16T04:43:31.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had success boiling in an Erlenmeyer flask (on a glass top electric stove) then immediately cooling it in the sink with ice water. But boilover is enough of an annoyance that I feel like sanitizing the flask separately and just boiling in a pot is less hassle overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T04:43:31.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4704" CreationDate="2011-07-17T17:26:51.633" Score="6" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used safbrew T-58 a couple of times over the last year and had both great batches and very yeasty-tasting batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the heat be the reason for the yeasty taste?&#xA;A warm day in the Israeli summer can range 26-32C (78-90F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-07-18T09:33:21.883" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T09:33:21.883" Title="Heat and yeasty flavors" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|taste|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4699" CreationDate="2011-07-17T19:57:19.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly, although &quot;yeasty&quot; is a tough flavor descriptor to get a handle on.  T-58 is a Belgian yeast and has many flavors that are different from other yeast, no matter what the temp.  High temps can exacerbate that.  Frankly, if you can't keep the temp under 70, you should consider alternative methods of fermentation, like using a refrigerator or water bath to ferment in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-07-17T19:57:19.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-17T22:19:49.200" Score="4" ViewCount="706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently moved. As part of the move, I changed my brewing process and went back to using my old brew pot (instead of an electric turkey fryer) and started using filtered tap water instead of distilled (the water tastes better here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After brewing for the first time at the new place, I noticed a layer of white haze at the bottom of the kettle. Is this beer stone (I thought that was always a little brown)? I've never experienced this white haze before--it might have to do with the water change or the fact that I'm using a kettle I haven't touched for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, has anyone had success getting it off? What do you use? Star San, CLR, Oxiclean, PBW? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/34LRt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T14:54:43.360" Title="Is this beerstone or something else? White haze in my kettle." Tags="|equipment|kettle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4703" CreationDate="2011-07-17T22:40:06.450" Score="6" ViewCount="1845" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having some racking issues lately, I can't seem to get a steady flow through the cane and tubing.  Would the bubbles or air gaps that I see in the tubing cause oxidation?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving forward, I'm going to get an auto-siphon, but just curious for past brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit, yes it's definitely air, I cracked the cane recently, so it's getting in through there.  Definitely time for a new one, was just wondering how much damage it was causing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="113" LastEditDate="2011-07-19T00:26:23.857" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T16:26:41.230" Title="Bubbles in my racking cane." Tags="|racking|oxidation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4702" CreationDate="2011-07-18T01:58:20.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check all your connections to make sure they are tight. I've had problems at the connection point between the tube and the spigot coming off of the bucket, but the spigot had varying widths as it went up so I just shoved the tube on a little farther and it solved the problem. If you heat the tube up a little in some warm water, it will become more malleable and easier to get a tighter fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, are you sure it is actually air getting into the tube? There is dissolved CO2 in the beer during the racking process, though far less than after the beer has finished carbonating. But it may be enough that when the beer gets pushed through the tube, the CO2 comes out of solution and looks like air getting into the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is just CO2, it won't hurt the beer of course. A small amount of O2 probably wouldn't be too noticeable unless you plan to age the beer and really want an purely O2 free environment. Since the beer isn't hot, oxidation takes some time and you will probably ok.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T01:58:20.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4699" CreationDate="2011-07-18T02:15:09.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;yeasty&quot; taste is most likely due to the ester production of the yeast. Esters can impart a variety of flavors, including banana, pear, plum, fruitiness, bubblegum, apricot, etc. A number of factors control ester production:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast strain&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different strains produce different amounts of esters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher temp = more esters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxegenation&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower oxygen = more esters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitching rate&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower pitching rate = more esters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher pressure = more of some esters (isoamyl acetate and 2-phenylethyl&#xA;acetate) less of others (ethyl acetate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wort composition&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower unsaturated fatty acids = more esters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower carbohydrate to assimilable nitrogen ratio (C:N ratio) = higher esters (this occurs in all-malt, higher gravity beers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any one of these factors could lead to a yeasty flavor, and all of these can vary greatly from batch to batch, depending on how consistent you are with your brewing process. In your case, high temperature is a prime suspect. Pitching rate and aeration are two other factors that can vary greatly between batches depending on your brewing practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastEditorUserId="678" LastEditDate="2011-07-18T02:26:44.623" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T02:26:44.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4711" CreationDate="2011-07-18T02:16:33.610" Score="7" ViewCount="1462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed my batch in the secondary looks short of 5 gallons, can I top it off with water when I bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-07-18T16:01:00.997" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T16:01:00.997" Title="Can I top off my batch at bottling time with water?" Tags="|bottling|water|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4705" CreationDate="2011-07-18T02:38:02.193" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother, unless you have a specific reason. If you think the beer is too strong and needs to be watered down, go for it. If you are worried because you are a half gallon off, but the beer tastes fine, don't worry about it! I've often been off by a quart or two, and the beer still came out great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to add water, be very careful. Make sure the water is free of microorganisms (bottled water is your best bet) and be careful not to introduce oxygen to the beer (siphon the water in, don't pour it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T02:38:02.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4701" CreationDate="2011-07-18T04:57:25.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing what you're seeing is &lt;strong&gt;Limescale&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;The area to which you moved probably has a higher mineral content in the water which causes more noticeable deposits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wikipedia value - &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limescale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Limescale&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Citric Acid to remove this. It can be either in a powder form (here it's called &quot;Lemon salt&quot;) or as a part of a commercial cleaning solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sure way to know if this is the problem is looking in your Kettle to see if the same deposit exists there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T04:57:25.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-18T06:16:08.200" Score="4" ViewCount="3415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed  this recipe but substituted crystal 80 for the crystal 15.  I did the full mash option, and I doubled all the ingredients and did a 10 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got an OG of 1.045 at 75F so adjusted to 1.047.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mashed in at 160F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did I do wrong to have such a low OG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ruination IPA clone&#xA;(Stone Brewing Company)&#xA;(5 gallons/19 L)&#xA;OG = 1.075 FG = 1.010&#xA;IBU = 100+ SRM = 6 ABV =7.7%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.6 lbs. (3 kg)Northwestern gold (light) malt extract syrup&#xA;2.0 lbs. (0.9 kg) Northwestern gold (light) dry malt extract&#xA;1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) Briess 2-row malt&#xA;1 lb. (0.45 kg) Briess crystal malt (1 5 &quot;L)&#xA;1 tsp. lrish moss (60 minutes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;36.0 AAU Magnum hops (bittering hop)&#xA;(2.25 oz./64 g of 16.0% alpha acids)&#xA;15.7 AAU Centennial hops (aroma/finishing hop)&#xA;(1 .5 oz./43 g ot 10.5%o alpha acid)&#xA;21.0 AAU Centennial hops (2.0 oz./56 g of 10.5% alpha acid)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White Labs WLPOOl(California Ale) yeast&#xA;or Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) yeast&#xA;0.75 cup of corn sugar (for priming)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step-by-step&#xA;Steep the 2 crushed grains in 3 gallons (1 1.4 L) of water at 149 'F (65 'C) for 30 minutes. Remove grains from wort, add Magnum hops, malt syrup and bring to a boil. Add lrish moss and boil for 60 minutes. Add the first addition of Centennial hops at the end of the boil, and let steep for 5 minutes.&#xA;Add wort to 2 gallons (7.6 L) cool water in a sanitary fermenter, and top off with cool water to 5.5 gallons (20.9 L). Cool the wod to 75'F (24 oC), aerate the beer and pitch yeast. Allow the beer to cool over the next few hours to 68 'F (20 'C) and hold at this temperature until the yeast has finished fermentation. Add last addition of Centennial hops for dry hopping. Dry hop for 3 lo 5 days, then bottle your beer, carbonate and enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-grain option:&#xA;Use 14.6 lbs. (6.6 kg) 2-row malt and 1.0 lbs. (0.45 kg) of crystal malt ('15 'L ) in your grain bill. Mash your grains at 149'F (65 'C) for 60 minutes. Collect enough wort to boil for 90 minutes and have a 5.5-gallon (20.9 L) yield (~7 gallons or 26.6 L). Decrease Magnum boiling hops to 1.75 oz. (50 g) to account for higher extraction ratio of a full boil. The remainder of the recipe is the same as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1151" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T12:14:22.833" Title="Why is my OG so low?" Tags="|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4693" CreationDate="2011-07-18T08:23:32.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know the exact process (perhaps someone else can offer more insight?). However I do know that the additional fermentation of the yeast under stressful (high pressure) environment does contribute to the taste change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T08:23:32.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4705" CreationDate="2011-07-18T12:32:18.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had contimplated that myself once before but realized that if you are drastically short there may have been a problem larger with your recipe. If it is only a little short there is more jeopardy of introducing oxygen and other goodies into the brew. Hope that helps...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1324" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T12:32:18.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4705" CreationDate="2011-07-18T14:42:45.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother at this point.  Just bottle it and drink it when its ready.&#xA;What's more important is to figure out why you are off and fix your process for next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T14:42:45.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4701" CreationDate="2011-07-18T14:54:43.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its likely mineral deposits in your new tap water.  PBW is great stuff normally, but it can cause the precipitation of some of the minerals when hot solutions cool off.  So if you clean with the PBW and then rinse it out with cold water form the tap you end up getting scaling on the equipment.  The secret is to rinse your equipment with hot water after the PBW cleansing phase. That will carry away the precipitated minerals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a pain to do that IMO, so I don't bother.  The minerals are in the water so its not like getting them off the pot is going to prevent them from being in the brew next time you brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T14:54:43.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4693" CreationDate="2011-07-18T14:57:24.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well it varies from batch to batch, but something that happens which can &quot;clean up&quot; bottled beer is that a fresh round of fermentation done at room temps can clean up any lingering diactyl in the beer. However, I would strongly recommend that you get out of the practice of samples your bottles so young. If you recognize that the beer is getting better after some time, then just leave the bottles to do their thing for a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T14:57:24.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4705" CreationDate="2011-07-18T15:00:03.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first batch was supposed to be 5gal. I primed it as such and realized that I only had 4gal collected in my bottling bucket. I lost the other gallon to poor technique I guess. Anyway, since 4gal carbed as if it was 5gal is significantly different than a normal 5gal carbination, I added a gallon of bottled water at bottling. The beer turned out fine, sort of like a low-alcohol Pale Ale. It was thinner than I wanted, I suppose, but was still tasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T15:00:03.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4702" CreationDate="2011-07-18T16:08:02.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably try and minimize all the leaks in your bottling system, butI don't think this will really affect the quality or longevity of your beer to any great extent. I use a racking cane poked into tube which is not the best fit and I have never experienced off-flavours consistent with oxidation. My (untested) explanation is that not much extra oxygen gets dissoved into the wort, and any that does gets scrubbed out by the CO2 from bottle-conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T16:08:02.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4702" CreationDate="2011-07-18T17:21:00.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If what you're getting is really air and not CO2, then yes, it can be a real oxidation issue.  It's happened to me and I've tasted it in other people's beers.  As has already been stated, check your connections to be certain that there are no leaks there.  I've found that you can ofter clear the bubbles out of the line by pinching the tubing behind the bubbles, right where the tubing connects to the racking cane.  You can also try putting a hose clamp at the tubing/racking cane junction to seal it and prevent air from getting in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T17:21:00.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4708" CreationDate="2011-07-18T19:21:29.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you had the right amount of everything, I'm guessing your mash efficiency was off for some reason, so it's time to troubleshoot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;160 'F is fairly high for a mash temperature, generally you want something in the range of 150-155 'F. You may have denatured most of your beta amylase and lost efficiency here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much water did you use in the mash? I generally shoot for around 1.5-2 quarts/pound of grain, if you were too far out of this range, you might have problems too concentrated or too thin of a mash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How finely milled was the malt? Too coarse of a grind can make some of the sugars less accessible, giving you lower efficiency.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How fast did you sparge? With this much grain, you might need an hour or more to get good extraction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How hot was your mash during sparging? Too cold and you may lose some efficiency.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you check to see that all the starches were converted? Using iodine can tell you if you need to give your mash a little more time to finish conversion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How are the fluid dynamics of your lauter tun? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This appendix&lt;/a&gt; from John Palmer's &lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt; is useful to review, but basically you want an even flow through the grain bed so that all the grain gets properly rinsed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of these could greatly affect your mash efficiency. Temperature is a big one, although 160 is on the high side, so I would expect still a high gravity reading but less fermentable sugars. Anyway, just look through the list and hopefully something will jump out at you, so you can improve future batches. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T19:21:29.500" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4693" CreationDate="2011-07-18T20:14:41.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ferment my beer and usually let it sit on the primary cake for quite some time.  Mainly because I am busy with other things.  When my beer comes out of the fermenter I have learned to recognize it as being good or great but without carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that what happens in the bottle is that you get a slight amount of oxidation that you can't control/prevent.  Not all oxidation is bad, and this might help with that maturation flavor you are thinking of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, I think the addition of CO2 starts to bright the beer up a bit too as a the beer's acidity increases a bit too.  I think the lack of CO2 and what it does to the beer is the real contributor to the green character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Albeit these are small changes but they help to round out the flavors and start to create a harmonious experience in the beer from all of its parts. (Sort of like soup the day after you make it)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said I don't think there is one true answer for this.  These are just my thoughts, which is why I chose to also make this answer a wiki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-07-20T11:28:56.260" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T11:28:56.260" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-18T20:14:41.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4521" CreationDate="2011-07-20T02:11:22.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do want to suggest that if you do like it, you could simply grate some lemon rind - a little bit - into a few bottles to experiement with how you like it. I like this flavor but it is preferential and personal. Label those bottles with how much you put to find out. I would say that if you think it would work try a little in the bottle after the brewing process and note how long it was in there an how much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1559" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T02:11:22.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4723" CreationDate="2011-07-20T11:43:51.387" Score="7" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there flavor differences between these two malts?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How can each be described?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have used them both but often in complicated recipes, and never side by side for comparison.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How is each produced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-07-20T20:55:07.640" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T20:55:07.640" Title="Victory v. Biscuit malt" Tags="|beer|flavor|ingredients|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4722" CreationDate="2011-07-20T14:12:42.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Victory has a more nutty flavor than Biscuit malt and gives more of an orange color to beer. They're both lightly roasted malts with biscuit flavors though, so the differences can be subtle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T14:12:42.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4521" CreationDate="2011-07-22T13:50:02.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been watching Discovery Channel's &quot;Brew Masters&quot; a bit lately and a trick that Sam often does is to take a ready made beer you can clone (either a basic recipe of your own or perhaps a commercial brew), adding various ingredients to steep for a short while (real quick, before it warms) and drinking it on the spot.  It's no science but it sounds like a great indicator of what might or might not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try brewing 5x 1 gallon of the base recipe and fermenting with 4 different additives and a neutral batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T13:50:02.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-22T14:15:43.900" Score="8" ViewCount="715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to try and acquaint myself with different hop flavours and brewing a few batches of beer can be quite time consuming (and wasteful if the results are no good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I quickly (in say, a day) compare the flavours of a range of hops? I'd like to encompass bittering and aroma qualities if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a basic hop tea sufficient? If so, what ratio of hops to water should I use? Should I do a few basic boils with extract malts to compare? What works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-07-22T19:38:16.337" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T09:48:15.670" Title="How can I compare hop flavours quickly?" Tags="|beer|hops|flavor|experiments|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4730" CreationDate="2011-07-22T14:15:56.003" Score="5" ViewCount="7587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a growler from a local brewery and filled it at bottling time. I made sure I sanatized the bottle and top. I did this to take a sample test before the three weeks of bottle time. Is this OK and how long will the beer last in a growler!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-07-22T14:23:34.240" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T19:48:19.793" Title="Can I use a Growler at bottling time and how long will the beer last in this." Tags="|beer|bottling|growlers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4729" CreationDate="2011-07-22T14:43:32.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the growlers that breweries and brew pubs use are not rated for high pressure of bottle conditioning.  These are the ones with the screw on caps.  They are designed to be filled with pre-carbonated beer.  Some growlers with the swing top closures can withstand the increased pressure while the beer is fermenting before the co2 is dissolved into solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you let them sit for about 2-3 weeks to let the co2 to dissolve into solution and they have not broke then they should be fine.  Just be careful during the first week in the growler.  After that time the growler should last as long as a regular bottle would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used them myself without any problems but you need to be careful as the growlers are reused and may be weakened by continual use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="687" LastEditDate="2011-07-22T14:57:45.753" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T14:57:45.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-22T19:47:43.660" Score="4" ViewCount="1743" Body="&lt;p&gt;So first fermentation went smoothly, solid bubbling from the airlock for about 5 days total racked into second fermenter and dry hopped on the seventh day.  First day nothing.  Second day it started right up, third day slowed down but held steady.  So I then traveled out of town for five days thinking it would be nice and perfect to bottle when i got home, that was over two weeks ago.  We didn't leave the A/C on in the house and it got quite warm in out house, the temp. on the outside of the carboy read 78 degrees, and it was bubbling every three seconds.  Its been two weeks since then and has just now only started to bubble once a minute.  So my question is, will my Summer Ale still be drinkable?  Or was that way too much temp. change for my poor neglected beer?  Any advice would be greatly appreciated!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T14:59:06.563" Title="Anyone ever had their secondary fermentation bubble for 3 weeks?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4729" CreationDate="2011-07-22T19:48:19.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I occasionally will fill a couple growlers of beer right from the tap of my keg system to transport some beer somewhere.  On occasions I might end-up filling more than I need and stick the full ones in the fridge.  I find that the growlers don't hold their pressure well enough and the beer is somewhat flat after a week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there are plenty of commercial breweries that put beers in growlers for distribution to stores.  Their caps might be better than the &quot;reusable&quot; ones I am getting at my LHBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the beer should be fine for as long as a normal bottled beer would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T19:48:19.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4728" CreationDate="2011-07-22T20:14:02.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One (slightly cheating) option is to buy some commerical beers for which you know the hop additions. Then you can try them all out and see if you can distinguish between the different flavour and aroma characteristics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there are going to other variables as well such as malt and water variations, but you might be able to reduce this by sticking with one brewery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can clearly taste hop-driven differences in beers if you have a few to choose from on tap in your local from the same brewery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite fun homework too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T20:14:02.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4731" CreationDate="2011-07-22T20:17:18.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After beer is done fermenting there is still some residual co2 remaining in solution.  The amount left over depends on the temperature you fermented at but if you raise the temperature of the beer the co2 will be released from solution.  This is what is causing the activity in your airlock.  Chances are that the beer was done fermenting after 5-7 days and all activity had stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer should be fine but the changes in temperatures may have sped up the staling process and may not be as fresh as you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T20:17:18.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4728" CreationDate="2011-07-23T20:26:45.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not a great way that I know of to do this is the short answer. Hop teas generally taste like crap, and without letting the beer ferment, you're not going to get a great picture of what the hops will &quot;taste&quot; like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll echo Graham's comment about the Latitude 48 IPA 12 pack from Sam Adams. I've read about it, but not been able to find it... yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer term (and most fun) answer is to brew a bunch of beer with just one hop varietal each. That way, you get to try them all and drink a bunch of beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T20:26:45.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4685" CreationDate="2011-07-23T20:31:54.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a local homebrew shop, then I recommend watching Groupon for a nice starter kit. They frequently feature a Midwest Supply starter kit that's quite cheap and will get you brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, I bought the cheapest kit from Northern Brewer, and it's a great kit too. Everything you need to get started - except a recipe kit. They sell good ones of those there as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastEditorUserId="1729" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T21:08:04.893" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T21:08:04.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4751" CreationDate="2011-07-24T02:36:59.353" Score="4" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am transfering my beer to a secondary fermenter (better bottle carboy). Do I need to shake or stir it to help the fermentation in the secondary!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T15:55:29.910" Title="Transfer to secondary." Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4741" CreationDate="2011-07-24T02:42:19.150" Score="1" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am forgot to take a hydrometer reading when I put the beer into the primary fermenter. Can I take one when I transfer to the secondary and what will it tell me anyway? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2011-07-24T06:57:18.480" Title="Hydrometer reading" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-24T05:38:04.023" Score="4" ViewCount="2373" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I was brewing distracted, which I will never do again, did everything right...except I didn't remember to add the big jug of liquid malt extract to the wort, or hopped water in my case!  You would think it was my first batch.  At least then I would have an excuse.  I added it, brought it to a boil added my last amount of hops and turned it off.  Should I just throw it out and start over or will it be ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1571" LastEditorUserId="1241" LastEditDate="2011-07-24T12:28:03.323" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T20:51:32.493" Title="I forgot to add my extract until the end!" Tags="|beer|hops|wort|extract|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4739" CreationDate="2011-07-24T06:21:44.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your hop utilization (bittering) will be off, but don't throw out the beer.  You have the huge advantage of extract beer already having been boiled to remove &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2694/90-minute-boil-for-pilsner-malt&quot;&gt;DMS&lt;/a&gt;, etc.  Consider it an experiment and keep going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the plus side, you'll be able to add some insight to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4576/performing-a-hop-boil-seperate-from-the-wort-boil&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-07-24T06:27:50.223" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4738" CreationDate="2011-07-24T06:57:18.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can still take one now, if you just forgot, just be sure to sanitize everything before you take the reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also gather valuable information if you take a reading before secondary. Since fermentation should be complete before secondary, you can make sure the majority of your sugars have been consumed by checking that your specific gravity is around what you would expect for a final gravity. You can also estimate ABV assuming you have a good estimate for what your starting gravity was. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you brewed extract, than it should be easy to estimate OG, and FG is really the more important measurement. If you brewed all grain, estimating OG is a little harder if you don't have a good estimate for what your extraction efficiency will be, but is still possible. Find a good online tool to help you (I prefer &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beer calculus&lt;/a&gt;) and you can get a good estimate assuming you still know your recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-07-24T06:57:18.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4737" CreationDate="2011-07-24T07:08:14.403" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope. Shaking or stirring before hand will stir up the yeast cake, which you are working so hard to keep out of your finished beer. Stirring or shaking after the transfer could add oxygen into the beer, causing off flavors from oxidization. Just transfer the beer carefully using a siphon and let it sit, the yeast will do the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, many people argue about the value of secondary fermentation at all. Personally I rarely rack to secondary and have never had any issues. Just something to consider for the next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-07-24T07:08:14.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4744" CreationDate="2011-07-24T19:14:08.053" Score="6" ViewCount="1304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tried a beer called Reverend James and it tasted really weird. Full-bodied and slightly spicy but I could detect absolutely no hop characteristics in it at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, it could be that my palate isn't very sophisticated (it isn't), but could it have been boiled with no hops at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone brewed without hops (or any other &quot;flavouring&quot;)? Does just fermented malt produce a drinkable beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-07-25T02:18:12.743" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T20:16:25.840" Title="Has anyone brewed hop-free beer?" Tags="|hops|experiments|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4743" CreationDate="2011-07-24T20:15:39.897" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed a gruit using heather and other herbs instead of hops...not one of my favorites.  You certainly can brew beer without hops, although when you put in the qualifier &quot;drinkable&quot; it becomes a subjective matter of opinion.  For my palate, a beer without hops, whether gruit or just malt alone, is not pleasantly drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T16:08:21.913" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T16:08:21.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-25T03:31:05.670" Score="3" ViewCount="886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard about using irish moss in ales as a clarifyer... how do you use it? How much? When? And does it affect the taste of a beer?&#xA;I am planning on using it with an Irish Red Ale Extract kit.... any suggestions you would have would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1532" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-12-22T16:41:28.277" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T16:41:28.277" Title="Using Irish Moss in Red Ales?" Tags="|additives|irish-moss|clarification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4747" CreationDate="2011-07-25T05:01:31.253" Score="4" ViewCount="3478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to take on a challenge of brewing an ale that is going to range between 14%-16% ABV, and among the many different steps, the most interesting is the inclusion of Demerara sugar and cane sugar in 1oz amounts daily (alternating between the types each day for 5 days in both primary, after the fermentation slows, and secondary).  The fermentation will take place in a carboy with a blow off tube vice your typical plastic airlock to ensure that if the fermentation overflows into the air lock, that it won't blow the cap off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is considered best practice when adding sugar to the carboy every day.  Should I use a funnel, and remove the 1/2in. tubing off the airlock and funnel it into the beer, then swirl the carboy to mix it in, or can I just remove the cork entirely, drop the sugar in, and replace the cork, or is there another method that is considered best practice for including the sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T12:06:07.907" Title="Best practices when adding sugars during the fermentation process" Tags="|fermentation|sugar|best-practices|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4746" CreationDate="2011-07-25T12:06:07.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually add water to the sugar (a pint per pound or so) and boil it for 10 minutes and then chill it to around current fermentation temperature before adding it to the fermenting beer.   Sanitize everything really well, pull the plug from the mouth of the carboy, drop a funnel into it and pour.   There's no need to shake it up or anything, because the yeast's activity will stir it very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this is the &quot;best&quot; way, but it has worked well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T12:06:07.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4745" CreationDate="2011-07-25T12:23:32.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Irish moss is available at any homebrew supply outlet, often in small bottles with the instructions right on the label.  Use 1 tsp. per 5 gallons of beer at the last 15-20 minutes of the boil. It will not affect the flavor of the beer with such a low dosage, assuming you're not harvesting it yourself.  Its purpose is to latch onto proteins in the beer and pull them out of suspension, thus removing the &quot;haze&quot;.  It is best when used in combination with a crash cool, but accomplishes plenty on its own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T12:23:32.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4745" CreationDate="2011-07-25T15:35:31.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Al Korzonas did some tests years back about using Irish moss.  His findings were that you should use 1/4 tsp. in extract beers and 1 tsp. in all grain beers.  The reason for using less in extract beers is due to the processing of the extract.  For best results, rehydrate the Irish moss in a little water for an hour or so before using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T15:35:31.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4743" CreationDate="2011-07-25T15:46:27.483" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A warning, just because you didn't detect any hop characteristics doesn't mean its un-hopped. Have you ever had a Bavarian Hefeweizen? Or a Berlinerweisse, or Lambic? These are beers that have absolutely no hop character, but do have very low levels of hops. Don't assume a beer with no hop character has &quot;zero&quot; hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T15:46:27.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4737" CreationDate="2011-07-25T15:55:29.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Secondary fermentation&quot; is a misnomer, and is slowly being phased out of home brewing dogma. Typically, your primary fermentation accounts for 90%+ of all the alcohol-producing activity and the &quot;secondary&quot; is done to (supposedly) help clear up the beer and to rouse a little yeast in the event they went to sleep a little to early. The latter is RARELY ever an issue with most yeasts at stable temps (Wit yeast is a notable exception), and the former has been debunked thoroughly. Meaning that beers that sit in primary for an extra 2-3 weeks instead of racking to secondary usually come out clearer and better tasting than their secondaried counterparts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary is recommended now mostly for lagers, which need to be handled a little differently than most ales, and for fruit beers, where you do primary fermentation without the fruit, then rack to secondary and add fruit, which kicks up active fermentation again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T15:55:29.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4753" CreationDate="2011-07-25T19:43:08.330" Score="4" ViewCount="2075" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know a variant of this question has been asked a million times, but can someone let me know if this behavior is &quot;normal&quot; for a brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Northern Brewer's Caribou Slobber Brown kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed on Saturday evening, followed the instructions carefully (the only thing I did 'incorrectly' was add water/wort in the wrong order.  The instructions said to put 2 gal. of cold water in the Carboy first, I put the wort in, then realized my mistake). The wort was cool to the touch by the time I added the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All day Sunday I had crazy activity in the fermentor: the bubbles were going so fast that it sounded like a boiling pot, and the krausen was thick and active (it rose and sank, and all sorts of stuff).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monday I went down and it has all but stopped.  I sat and watched for a while and barely saw a bubble (i can't tell if it was my tapping fingers on the clawfoot tub the carboy was in or what).  All that was left of the krausen was the sticky stuff on the sides of the better bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wondering two things in specific:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the beer in trouble for having &quot;gone&quot; so fast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I try and rinse the krausen particulate back into the wort?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been particularly warm the last few days, but it's in a dimly lit, rarely used bathroom in the lowest part of my apartment (we have three half-stories).  Overall it's been a very comfortable temperature in the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1537" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T20:05:36.080" Title="Fermentation Activity in the first few days" Tags="|fermentation|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4752" CreationDate="2011-07-25T20:05:36.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, nothing wrong at all! Fermentation can happen fast, especially if you have good pitching rates and oxygenation. I've commonly had fermentations that are done after a day or two, and I'd say on average most of my fermentations are done by day 3. From a fermentation standpoint, everything is great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, given that the fermentation was so active there MAY be some problems with taste. That level of activity could easily raise the temperature a few degrees. You usually want fermentation to happen around 68'F, and if it gets too high into the 70's you can get a lot of esters and off flavors. Try some and you will be able to tell immediately, if you have problems with esters just try to keep it cooler next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the krausen particulate, it isn't really necessary to rinse it back into the wort, I would just let it sit for now. The yeast are still active, just not as much. By now they have finished converting sugars for the most part. However they are still cleaning up the beer, breaking down byproducts and impurities, improving the taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried at all you can take a gravity reading to make sure everything is on track. It should be right around or a little higher than what you would expect for a final gravity. Good luck, and enjoy the beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Just to be clear, any off flavors aren't due to the speed of fermentation, but just the temperature, so if you keep the beer cool enough, fast fermentation is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T20:05:36.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4757" CreationDate="2011-07-25T23:44:11.307" Score="3" ViewCount="1414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed an ESB from extract just before the weekend and then got called away this weekend and wasn't able to make any observations for the next 3 days. I checked after 12 hours and didn't see any bubbling but after coming back home 3 days later there still wasn't any bubbling happening. I did take a reading with the hydrometer that came out around 130 (~100 F). What sort of hydrometer reading would assure me that the primary fermentation occurred while I was absent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also ended up pitching my yeast (liquid, and I think London style/type) at probably too high of a temperature because of a crappy digital thermometer that was malfunctioning so this is why I'm concerned that fermentation may or may not have kicked in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&#xA;This is just my second batch and the first one was a while ago. Also there does appear to be a ring of crud just above water level and it appears that some sediment is forming on the bottom of the container (around a centimeter). Also my hydrometer reading is 1.020 (1.035 OG roughly adjusted for temp).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://picasaweb.google.com/102757179271816400204/Beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Link to pictures&lt;/a&gt; to show crud ring and sediment: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1578" LastEditorUserId="1578" LastEditDate="2011-07-26T05:02:54.287" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T13:27:20.727" Title="Check if fermentation has occurred." Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4754" CreationDate="2011-07-26T00:41:49.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A reading of around 1.007 - 1.010 would probably be around what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: At 1.020 you are nicely on-track to getting where you want to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you brewed before this batch?  I think I would know if fermentation by the state of the fermenter.  Is there a ring of crud above the fluid level, or does it look pretty much the same as it did before you left it for 3 days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Your pictures show the tell-tell signs that fermentation is well underway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2011-07-26T13:27:20.727" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T13:27:20.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4179" CreationDate="2011-07-26T12:21:49.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why don't you just rack into a tertiary bucket for a few days and let it settle further to reduce the loss of volume. That is what I am planning to do for my Blueberry Blonde ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1580" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T12:21:49.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4754" CreationDate="2011-07-26T12:40:30.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well that pic with the &quot;crud&quot; looks like whats left after a &lt;strong&gt;perfectly normal fermentation&lt;/strong&gt; to me. You'll see that ring of brown scum (we call it &quot;krausen&quot;), along with floating dots of the same brown stuff on the surface of the liquid. Just leave the beer alone for &lt;strong&gt;another 3 weeks&lt;/strong&gt; (if your recipe calls for racking to secondary, just ignore it), then bottle it up and enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several of the British strains of yeast are known for their very fast fermentation. I use Fermentis S-04 Dry yeast all the time and it's a workhorse. A little lag (6-12 hours) then heavy fermentation for 2-3 days, then it starts dropping. Great stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you are using liquid yeast, its best to make a yeast starter before you brew to wake the yeast up and check their viability. I'd recommend you get that technique down before using liquid yeast again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T12:40:30.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4743" CreationDate="2011-07-26T23:42:45.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The purpose of hops is to offset the sweetness of the malt by adding a bittering element.  Hops also act as a natural preservative, which the English used to their advantage when sending their ales to India (hence India Pale Ale or IPA).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine recently brewed a raspberry beer without any hops, and it turned out surprisingly good.  You can substitute other ingredients for hops, but YMMV.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1582" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-07-27T15:27:01.367" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T15:27:01.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4745" CreationDate="2011-07-26T23:58:29.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out Whirfloc, an alternative to Irish moss.  1/2 - 1 tablet 15 min left in the boil should help your cold break flocculate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1582" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T23:58:29.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4728" CreationDate="2011-07-27T00:06:10.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a new technique storming the homebrew scene called SMaSH - Single Malt and Single Hop beers.  By brewing with a single malt (usually 2-row or pale ale malt) and a single hop, you can easily discern the different flavors and aromas of hop varieties.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could boil a malt extract or wort in 5 different vessels (small 1-2 gallon pots would do the trick), and add a different hop to each one at say, 60, 15, and 1 minute intervals for bittering, flavor, and aroma, respectively.  Then you could get 1 gallon glass jugs and pop in a bung &amp;amp; airlock in each one.  An adequately prepared yeast starter can be rationed into each mini-fermenter, and a few weeks later you'll have 5 beers differing only in hop variety.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never done this but just a thought.  If you're interesting in doing the SMaSH method, try and get your hands on Amarillo.  One of the tastiest brews I've made to date - and the simplest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1582" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T00:06:10.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4179" CreationDate="2011-07-27T01:36:47.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a year-old kriek I'm pondering the same problem with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not vegetarian, it might not be a bad idea to take a lesson from England's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.camra.org.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cask-conditioned ales&lt;/a&gt;, which are cleared in the serving vessel using gelatin. This might not make a great deal of difference as to how compacted the sediment gets at the bottom, but it will make the border between beer and lees a lot more distinct, and you might get more clear beer out of the whole deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T01:36:47.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4766" CreationDate="2011-07-27T01:41:35.620" Score="7" ViewCount="2568" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of my knowledge of diactyl rests come from Palmer's &lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt;, and it applies entirely to lagers. It mainly means bringing the temperature up slowly and letting the lager sit at a slightly higher temperature for a couple of days so the yeast consume the diacetyl produced in the cold fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wyeast &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recommends a thorough diacetyl rest with their ESB yeast&lt;/a&gt;, though, and I wonder what in the heck this means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A very good cask conditioned ale strain, this extremely flocculant yeast produces distinctly malty beers. Attenuation levels are typically less than most other yeast strains which results in a slightly sweeter finish. Ales produced with this strain tend to be fruity, increasingly so with higher fermentation temperatures of 70-74°F (21-23° C). A thorough diacetyl rest is recommended after fermentation is complete. Bright beers are easily achieved within days without any filtration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if I'm fermenting at the top of the range anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T15:24:21.993" Title="What does &quot;a thorough diacetyl rest&quot; mean when talking about ale yeast?" Tags="|yeast|ale|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2011-07-27T01:50:47.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to find right now, but Charlie Papazian's Cry Havoc yeast from White Labs made just an excellent maibock at about 68F for me. A long, slow, cool aging period was at least partly responsible for it, but the yeast lives up to its purported ability to ferment at ale temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I detected none of the berry or apple esters described &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/newstrains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. That may be because maibock is less restrained than, say, a pilsener.  In any case, if you can find it, give it a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T01:50:47.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-27T02:39:04.847" Score="4" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a reasonable amount of fresh ginger to use to lightly flavor a beer? Does the quantity to use differ based on when it is added in the process (boil vs flame out vs secondary)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize &quot;&lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt;&quot; is a rather subjective term but I'm just trying to say that the ginger flavor should not be the primary taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T10:10:48.233" Title="How much ginger should be used at what point of the process?" Tags="|additives|ginger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2011-07-27T02:46:32.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually take that to mean &quot;hold the temperature at its high point for an extra day or three after the fermentation activity has mostly stopped&quot;  (i.e. don't let it peak and fall back down too quickly).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T02:46:32.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2011-07-27T02:51:35.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always take a gravity reading and taste the beer to determine if you even need to do a diacetyl rest.  When you raise the temps on a lager for a diacetyl rest, the purpose is to make the yeast more active in order to reduce the diacetyl.  Even if the yeast is less active, giving it more time accomplishes the same thing.  That's true of ales, too.  You can't really raise the temps, but you can leave the beer on the yeast for more time.  In effect, you're doing a diacetyl rest by doing nothing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-07-27T15:24:21.993" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T15:24:21.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4764" CreationDate="2011-07-27T10:10:48.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based purely on personal experiance I would say ~200g of boiled ginger per 23L will give a light background taste. I use ~1kg to make it the most prominent taste (like the ginger cider I brewed last weekend).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T10:10:48.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4179" CreationDate="2011-07-27T16:10:11.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making beers that end up with a lot of trub I do this. Go to your local hardware store and buy a paint straining bag (they are usually by the paint sprayers) this bag will fit over a five gallon bucket with an elastic on the top of the bag and the bag fills the bucket to the bottom. (see here &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.finevinewines.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7887&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forum.finevinewines.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7887&lt;/a&gt;  Rack into the bucket using any preferred method and then simply pull the straining bag out.  I also use this technique to filter out hop trub after a boil. Works like a charm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T16:10:11.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4739" CreationDate="2011-07-27T17:55:16.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late additions of malt extract are actually a normal thing, although usually there will be a base wort that has some malt going.  This is going to affect 2 things:  First, the late addition can improve hop utilization.  Secondly, the extract won't darken so much from the cooking time, and will result in a lighter beer.  A google search of &quot;Late Extract Addition&quot; will return a number of pages covering the topic.  So RDWHAHB, your beer is probably going to be A-OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T17:55:16.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4778" CreationDate="2011-07-27T21:06:09.693" Score="9" ViewCount="6277" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I figure out a beer's nutrition facts when I've homebrewed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a sum of the ingredients any more, is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--EDIT--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when I say &quot;beer's nutrition facts&quot; I means values like calories, carbs, proteins, vitamins, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1537" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T16:40:45.510" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T22:03:59.800" Title="How do you calculate a beer's nutrition facts?" Tags="|beer|ingredients|nutrition|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4770" CreationDate="2011-07-28T12:23:09.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what nutritional information you are looking for, some of the brewing software packages will get you there.  However, to truly know some of the protein and salt levels you need to know your water chemistry, you need the spec sheet from the malt, you need to know the residual yeast content, you need detailed analysis from the hop manufacturer... many variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And no its not just the sum of its parts anymore, primarily as a function of carbohydrates are concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T12:23:09.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4773" CreationDate="2011-07-28T13:37:25.793" Score="3" ViewCount="461" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I embarked on a fun adventure to create a 14-16% ABV beer (Dema Goddess Ale), and it calls for aeration via an air pump that you would typically use in an aquarium.  Due to the high concentration of sugar (a collective pound of demerara and cane sugar), as well as 13+ lbs of LME, it quickly produced an overwhelming amount of head that, unless looked after for the entire duration, would overflow creating a mess.  Are there any ways to reduce the amount of foam that comes off the top of the wort when aerating with an aquarium pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T14:34:38.100" Title="How to reduce head when aerating wort with an aquarium pump" Tags="|wort|aeration|head|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4772" CreationDate="2011-07-28T14:34:38.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using an anti-foam agent such as fermcap-s &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/fermcap-s-1-oz.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/fermcap-s-1-oz.html&lt;/a&gt; or if your LHBS carries another anti foam agent. I have used these with great success in the past to prevent boil overs and also cut down on the mess associated with fermentations that require a blow-off tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T14:34:38.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4770" CreationDate="2011-07-28T14:42:48.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Until the software vendors have worked out the rules for combining ingredients to work out the nutritional stats via software, you'll need to send a sample off to a lab, where they will burn your 'product' and analyse the ash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;amp;pq=nutritional+analysis+lab&amp;amp;xhr=t&amp;amp;q=nutrition+analysis+lab&amp;amp;cp=11&amp;amp;pf=p&amp;amp;sclient=psy&amp;amp;client=safari&amp;amp;aq=0&amp;amp;aqi=g1g-v1g-j1g-b1&amp;amp;oq=nutrition+analysis+lab&amp;amp;pbx=1&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&amp;amp;biw=980&amp;amp;bih=1208&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Search&lt;/a&gt; for someone nearby, it can cost around &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brookerlaboratories.com/service.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;$100&lt;/a&gt; per sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T14:42:48.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4779" CreationDate="2011-07-29T01:59:24.283" Score="3" ViewCount="1306" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, when I transfer my wort from the pot to the bucket/carboy for primary fermentation, I like to use a very fine knit mesh reusable grain bag to catch all the hops, and other trub that has collected before I pitch my yeast and set aside for fermentation.  This time around, I have a sour cherry ale, and I ended up leaving the cherries in for the primary fermentation.  I have a ridiculous amount of trub now from all the cherries, and I'm wondering since I now pitched my yeast if it would be a good idea to filter it through the grain bag again?  I fear that by doing so I may trap the yeast in the trub, therefor am a little hesitant to do so before I hear someone speaking from experience saying it's ok to do.  Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T13:01:10.710" Title="Filtering out the dead yeast cells and other trub during transfer from primary to secondary fermentation" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|trub|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4405" CreationDate="2011-07-29T03:18:37.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Krausen refers to either the yeasty foam in the fermenter or a method of priming beer with the wort from the batch that is being primed. gyle is another term for unfermented wort. priming with Krausen allows the beer to adhere to the rheinheitsgebot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one would assume that Krausen would impart no foreign or undesirable flavors to the beer because it uses it's own maltose to carbonate and condition the final product whereas table sugar or corn syrup are slightly different sugar molecules that produce (albeit slightly) their own flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1586" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T03:18:37.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4770" CreationDate="2011-07-29T11:36:42.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can work out the approximate amount of calories if you think about what the major contributors to the brew are. Calories will come from carbohydrates (in the form of dissolved sugars) and alcohol (ethanol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethanol has 7 kcal/g, so assuming an approximate  density of 1 g / ml (i.e. water)* you can get the alcohol contribution from the alcohol by volume of your brew (ABV). I.e., 5% ABV = 45 kcal per 100 ml (5 * 7 = 45 kcal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of carbohydrates, you'll need to know the amount of dissolved unfermented  sugar in your brew. Sucrose has about 3.9 kcal /g. So, if for example you have 5% sugars dissolved in your brew then  sugars will give 20 kcal per 100m (5 * 3.9 = 19.5 kcal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give you a total of 65 kcal per 100 ml. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you work out all this from your OG and FG? Well, I found this page which looks useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/ensmingr/&quot;&gt;http://hbd.org/ensmingr/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine protein content can be calculated in a similar fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the actual density is given by your hydrometer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T11:36:42.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4775" CreationDate="2011-07-29T13:01:10.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't trap any yeast in the turbo at a rate that's noticeable.  The yeast are too small for that.  I would however worry about oxygenating the beer if fermentation is already done in primary.&#xA;A better practice would be to just let it ferment out and then put the whole fermentor in a cold fridge or a water bath with bottles of ice water for a couple days.  That will help flocculate out all the yeast and get the trub and cherries to settle.  The rack via siphon slowly to your bottling bucket and start bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T13:01:10.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-29T19:22:36.040" Score="7" ViewCount="11575" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the steps needed to legally sell homebrew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an LLC and know how to setup the business/tax/etc on that side of things. I could do it under this or form a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just not certain of the liquor related laws/regulations. I want to be 100% legit and able to legally sell to the public.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in the USA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="975" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T14:28:12.990" Title="Legalities of Selling my homebrew?" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4780" CreationDate="2011-07-29T20:06:28.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer sales are regulated by state thanks to the three tier system currently in place.  Find the website for the liquor division of your state's department of commerce.  &lt;strong&gt;Every state is different.&lt;/strong&gt;  You need a business license and a liquor/beer license that fits your operation.  I live in Ohio*, and in order to sell my beer I need a beer manufacturing license as well as a license to sell it on site.  If I want to pour tastings, that's another license.  On top of all that, it cannot be sold out of my home as the location must be zoned industrial. If I were to sell out of a store, I must go through a state licensed distributor that will likely refuse if I am not already an established business. If I run a brewpub that also sells bottled beer in a store, I'll definitely need a lawyer!  &lt;a href=&quot;http://com.ohio.gov/liqr/PermitClasses.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is the list of licenses in Ohio&lt;/a&gt;.  As you can see, wineries have it easy here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Join the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersassociation.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewers Association&lt;/a&gt; to access their much coveted Brewers Resource Directory.  If you need legal advice beyond what you can find through the BA, get in touch with one of the many local entrepreneurial resources.  Columbus is blessed with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themetropreneur.com/columbus/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Metropreneur&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also important to know that selling beer is not cost effective on small systems.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.soundbrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Just ask the guys that resell all of that 3-5bbl equipment.&lt;/a&gt;  Think big and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Ohio has recently changed their laws since this answer, so my licensing comments are a little outdated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastEditorUserId="1241" LastEditDate="2016-10-28T14:28:12.990" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T14:28:12.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4780" CreationDate="2011-07-30T18:34:05.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;WA state also has a three tier system and it is almost impossible to brew, distribute, and sell without a major (several thousand dollar) investment in fees each year. The key here is that you can brew and sell, but only on the location of the brewing and it has to be consumed there (no take out bottles or cans) unless you also have the distribution license. So you can operate a brewpub, but they can't take it out without the distribution license and those are highly controlled and from what I hear, expensive. Then there are the health (food distributor) regulations and fees, bar fees, business licenses, etc. I've read an estimate that here in WA, it takes a minimum of about $500,000 to setup a brewpub/bar when you are brewing the beverages yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-08-01T06:39:07.430" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T06:39:07.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4770" CreationDate="2011-07-30T18:51:56.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a recipe calculator that I use to generate the US food label for my freelance recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://recipes.sparkpeople.com/recipe-calculator.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://recipes.sparkpeople.com/recipe-calculator.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using it with this link to adjust the amount of residual carbs should give you a decent estimate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dd26943.com/davesdreaded/tools/convert.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dd26943.com/davesdreaded/tools/convert.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the proteins are going to be fairly soluble in the alcohol so you can reasonably assume total extraction. The fats are another issue, but probably minimal. I'd ignore any residual yeast, if you clarify your brew, and fiber from the grains/fruit (hard to estimate soluble fiber).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here is an example. I brewed a batch of pear cider. Putting in the raw ingredients (58 pounds of pears, 1 oz yeast for 53 12 oz servings), I get the following nutritional facts from the recipe calculator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nutrition Facts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;User Entered Recipe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;53 Servings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amount Per Serving&#xA;  Calories  261.1&#xA;  Total Fat     1.8 g&#xA;          Saturated Fat     0.1 g&#xA;          Polyunsaturated Fat   0.4 g&#xA;          Monounsaturated Fat   0.4 g&#xA;  Cholesterol   0.0 mg&#xA;  Sodium    0.2 mg&#xA;  Potassium     555.3 mg&#xA;  Total Carbohydrate    66.8 g&#xA;          Dietary Fiber     10.6 g&#xA;          Sugars    0.0 g&#xA;  Protein   1.8 g&#xA;  Vitamin A     1.8 %&#xA;  Vitamin B-12  0.0 %&#xA;  Vitamin B-6   4.0 %&#xA;  Vitamin C     29.4 %&#xA;  Vitamin D     0.0 %&#xA;  Vitamin E     11.0 %&#xA;  Calcium   4.9 %&#xA;  Copper    25.0 %&#xA;  Folate    7.7 %&#xA;  Iron  6.1 %&#xA;  Magnesium     6.6 %&#xA;  Manganese     16.8 %&#xA;  Niacin    2.2 %&#xA;  Pantothenic Acid      3.1 %&#xA;  Phosphorus        4.9 %&#xA;  Riboflavin    10.4 %&#xA;  Selenium  6.3 %&#xA;  Thiamin   5.9 %&#xA;  Zinc  3.5 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I juiced the pears, I remove the fiber data (not a lot of fiber dissolves). I remove the fat data (not very soluble) and the carbohydrate calorie data, substituting the data from the Dave's calculator (note that in my case, there is very little sucrose - thus no sugars listed in nutrition label, the remaining carbs being the fructose that is converted to alcohol and in the SG calculations, so multiply the original carbs by the remaining &quot;solids&quot; after attenuation - see Dave's SG). So the adjusted label looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nutrition Facts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;User Entered Recipe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;53 Servings (12 oz servings)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amount Per Serving&#xA;  Calories  187&#xA;  Total Fat     0 g&#xA;          Saturated Fat     0 g&#xA;          Polyunsaturated Fat   0 g&#xA;          Monounsaturated Fat   0 g&#xA;  Cholesterol   0.0 mg&#xA;  Sodium    0.2 mg&#xA;  Potassium     555.3 mg&#xA;  Total Carbohydrate    12.0 g&#xA;          Dietary Fiber     0 g&#xA;          Sugars    0.0 g&#xA;  Protein   1.8 g&#xA;  Vitamin A     1.8 %&#xA;  Vitamin B-12  0.0 %&#xA;  Vitamin B-6   4.0 %&#xA;  Vitamin C     29.4 %&#xA;  Vitamin D     0.0 %&#xA;  Vitamin E     11.0 %&#xA;  Calcium   4.9 %&#xA;  Copper    25.0 %&#xA;  Folate    7.7 %&#xA;  Iron  6.1 %&#xA;  Magnesium     6.6 %&#xA;  Manganese     16.8 %&#xA;  Niacin    2.2 %&#xA;  Pantothenic Acid      3.1 %&#xA;  Phosphorus        4.9 %&#xA;  Riboflavin    10.4 %&#xA;  Selenium  6.3 %&#xA;  Thiamin   5.9 %&#xA;  Zinc  3.5 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-07-30T20:01:46.653" LastActivityDate="2011-07-30T20:01:46.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4795" CreationDate="2011-07-30T19:05:34.363" Score="3" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Any suggestions on how to estimate the amount of yeast that remains in the brew solution after standard transfer practices without using clarification? I know that some remain because of priming carbonation before bottling.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit to clarify: I am wondering if the amount that is actually consumed is negligible in terms of nutritional information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-05T22:57:57.713" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T22:57:57.713" Title="Soluble yeast estimation before carbonation" Tags="|beer|yeast|cider|residual|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4676" CreationDate="2011-07-30T22:10:39.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just recently had the same bubblegum/banana taste in my caribou slobber from northern brewer.  It was wyeast 1332, hot summer months and being realitively new to brewing it was the last thing I really considered.  I keep my house at 72 or so but the primary and 2ndary in a closet without air conditioning.  It has to be what happened.  It doesn't make me hurl but not the best tasting brew as it's the 3rd time I've made this kit.  I will give it a couple months to try to mellow and if it's still too strong banana I move on with my life.  What I really mean is that I probably just wont drink this batch as fast.  A lesson learned I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1590" LastActivityDate="2011-07-30T22:10:39.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="268" CreationDate="2011-07-31T16:14:44.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get now get in the UK at least these coffee-bags (similar to tea bags but bigger and with coffee in them). They arrive sealed in foil and ready to go. I've placed these in the mix during the entire fermentation process. Because they are nicely in a bag they just come out when its time to bottle. Sorted, and great coffee stoat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T16:14:44.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4179" CreationDate="2011-08-01T06:59:52.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a raspberry cider and when I racked it from the primary, I poured it through a fine mesh (actually was a frying pan grease guard that fit just right over the top of my 5 gal priming bucket) that gathered most of the raspberry &quot;guts&quot; (I used canned seedless unsweetened raspberries from the local brew shop in the wine section, Oregon Fruit was the brand). I then used gelatin to clarify the remaining solution. Turned out a nice clear red color, and it carbonated just fine in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T07:18:12.300" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T07:18:12.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4789" CreationDate="2011-08-02T02:14:34.973" Score="6" ViewCount="8651" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recipe I'm working on calls for the use of distillers yeast half way through my primary fermentation (among other things like plenty of sugar, aeration, etc...).  Problem is, it doesn't really specify how much I should use.  I picked up a 1 lb bag of Crosby &amp;amp; Baker's distillers yeast, and plan to get a starter going with it.  Only problem is, I highly doubt I am supposed to use an entire lbs when adding it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put some perspective on how much sugar is going into it, I'm waiting for the vigorous primary fermentation to calm down, then plan to add sugar daily, in the amount of 1 oz. per day (cane or demerara, alternating), for five days.  After that cools off, I transfer the beer out of the carboy to rid of the dead yeast cells, add the distillers yeast, aerate, then put back into the cleaned out carboy and continue to add 1 oz. of sugar for another five days before I transfer to secondary to let it sit for several weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much distillers yeast should I add to this batch based off of the size and the amount of sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I probably should have brought up the target 14-16% ABV part.&#xA;Here is the recipe (source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;amp;t=68610&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;amp;t=68610&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dema-Goddess Ale &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Preboil Tea &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4 gallons cool water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1/2 pound crushed cara-Munich barley &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1/2 pound crushed special B barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Grain bag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2 teaspoons gypsum &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Boil &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;13.2 pounds light liquid malt extract or 11 pounds dry light malt extract (65 minutes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2 ounces Tomahawk hop pellets (60 minutes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2 ounces Chinook hop pellets (20 minutes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1/2 pound cane sugar (20 minutes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2 teaspoons Irish Moss (20 minutes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1/2 pound Demerara sugar (10 minutes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;5 teaspoons yeast nutrient (after cooling) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In Carboy &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Water to the 5 gallon mark &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Primary Fermentation &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Yeast: Wyeast 1214 Abbey Ale or White Labs WLP570 Belgian Strong/Golden Ale.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1 ounce pure cane sugar (day&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1 ounce demerara sugar (day 9)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1 ounce pure cane sugar (day 10)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1 ounce demerara sugar (day 11)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1 ounce pure cane sugar (day 12)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1 ounce cascade hop pellets (day 13)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Distillers yeast (secondary) (day 13)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1 ounce pure cane sugar (day 13)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1 ounce demerara sugar (day 14)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bottling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Champagne Yeast or Wyeast 3021&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;5 ounces priming sugar &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Extra Equipment&#xA;   * Aquarium pump/hose/aerating stone setup&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;SG: 1.100 (at the start of primary fermentation) FG: &quot;With this many&#xA;  small sugar additions and this big a beer, final gravity is anybody's&#xA;  guess!&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Final Target ABV: 14-16% &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: Day references in this recipe above are approximations. The day&#xA;  that you actually begin your post primary fermentation sugar additions&#xA;  may vary depending upon fermentation temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PROCESS &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fill a grain bag with the crushed cara-munich malt and the crushed special b malt. Tie off the top and place the bag in your brewpot&#xA;  filled with 5 gallons of cool water. Add the gypsum to the water. Heat&#xA;  the pot and stir the water and grain bag every 5 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As the water reaches 170 F (77 C) pull the specialty grain bag using a large stirring spoon. Hold the bag above the brewpot for a&#xA;  minute, allowing most of the liquid to drain into the pot. Do not&#xA;  squeeze the grain bag. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As the water begins to boil, remove the pot from the heat. Add the light malt extract. Stir to prevent clumping and scorching on the&#xA;  bottom of the pot. Return to heat. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allow the wort to come up to a boil. After preboiling for 5 minutes add the Tomahawk hop pellets and stir. Start timing the 1 hour boil at&#xA;  the point that you can make this hop addition. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;20 minutes before the end of the boil, add the Chinook hop pellets, 1/2 pound of cane sugar, and the irish moss, stir for one minute.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;10 minutes before the end of the boil add 1/2 pound of demerara sugar and stir for 1 minute. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At the 60 minute mark of the biol turn off the heat source. Stir the wort clockwise for 2 minutes as you build up a whirlpool effect.&#xA;  Stop stirring and allow the wort to sit for 10 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chill the wort in a cold water bath to a temperature of 70 - 75 F (21 - 24 C)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Transfer the wort into a carboy. Add the yeast nutrient. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pitch the primary strong ale yeast into the carboy. Top up the wort to the 5 gallon mark with water. Set up the aquarium pump, hose,&#xA;  and aeration stone, and oxygenate beer for 1 hour. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After the vigorous primary fermentation slows down (around 8 - 10 days) you will hear the airlock bubbling less frequently. Once this&#xA;  slowdown occurs, alternate between 1 ounce of pure cane sugar and 1&#xA;  ounce of demerara sugar additions to the carboy every day for 5 days&#xA;  straight. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A few days after the primary fermentation slows down, transfer your beer into the sterilize bottling bucket while you clean out the&#xA;  carboy. many yeast cells have grown in this sugar rich environment,&#xA;  and you want to leave the layer of dead yeast cells that have dropped&#xA;  to the bottom of the back as you transfer to the bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add the cascade hop pellets to the empty sterilized carboy. Transfer the beer back into your sterilized carboy and pitch your&#xA;  secondary super high gravity yeast. A good yeast starter is a good&#xA;  idea. Set up your aquarium pump/hose/aerating stone unit once again&#xA;  and aerate the beer for 1 full hour. Again you will be adding 1 ounce&#xA;  of pure cane sugar followed by 1 ounce of demerara sugar the next day&#xA;  for 5 straight days. The difference here is that you begin the sugar&#xA;  additions the day you transfer and aerate the beer for secondary&#xA;  fermentation. Secondary fermentation should last 1-3 weeks. 2 weeks&#xA;  after all fermentation activy subsides your beer should be ready to&#xA;  bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For this high gravity beer, you will be adding additional yeast at bottling to make sure that the beer has fresh yeast for the bottle&#xA;  conditioning. While transferring the beer to the bottling bucket, use&#xA;  a cup of the beer to dissolve the champagne yeast. Add the Champagne&#xA;  yeast mixture to the bottling bucket and stir well. Now add the&#xA;  priming sugar dissolved in 1 cup of boiling water to the bottling&#xA;  bucket and stir well before bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In another 3 weeks, your beer should be ready to drink. This is another long keeper and will mature well with age. It will be better&#xA;  after a year of aging, if you can wait that long&gt;   * 1 ounce pure care sugar (day 15)  * 1 ounce demerara sugar (day&#xA;  16)  * 1 ounce pure cane sugar (day 17)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2015-02-19T18:57:52.207" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T18:57:52.207" Title="How much distillers yeast do I use in a 5 gallon batch of beer?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4788" CreationDate="2011-08-02T13:13:43.957" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process for adding sugar and yeast in your question are &lt;strong&gt;very, very strange&lt;/strong&gt;. I've never heard of using distiller's yeast in a beer, and adding sugar 1oz at a time for 5 days is silly. Furthermore, racking after a few days to &quot;rid of the dead yeast cells&quot; sounds like old school homebrewing mumbo jumbo which has been disproved countless times. I &lt;strong&gt;HIGHLY&lt;/strong&gt; suggest you stop this plan and read up more on conventional, modern home brewing techniques. I can't think of a single beer that needs distillers yeast (which I'm assuming is super-attenuating) nor sugar additions in 1oz units. Some Belgians call for &lt;strong&gt;1-2 pounds&lt;/strong&gt; of sugar in the boil and regular ale yeast has no problem fermenting the malt and sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are trying to dry out a beer completely, then I'd just use a very attenuative ale yeast, like the White Labs High Gravity (WLP099).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to answer your original question, a 5 gallon batch of wort can be sufficiently pitched with a single 11 gram packet of dry ale yeast for a normal strength beer (4-8% ABV). If for some crazy reason, you want to use distiller's yeast, then I suggest you follow those proportions. Adding even a few ounces of yeast will be pointless overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T13:13:43.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4788" CreationDate="2011-08-02T14:04:17.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ten 1oz sugar additions isn't that much sugar.  Your primary yeast strain will take care of it just fine without the addition of more sugar.  And aerating it will be a bad idea if you are actually making beer to drink.  If you are going to distill it then maybe that's a standard practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T14:04:17.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4793" CreationDate="2011-08-03T02:16:16.633" Score="11" ViewCount="19874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a batch of IPA yesterday and when I checked on it today it had started to blow-off.  There is so much pressure in the primary that it has spilled up through the airlock and is constantly whistling.  Should I be concerned about this?  Is there anything I should do to correct it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is a modified version of this recipe: &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/discus/messages/15516/16500.html?1054613895&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://hbd.org/discus/messages/15516/16500.html?1054613895&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The modification was to use liquid malt extract instead (10 lbs) and substituted Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) and was made at the recommendation of my local homebrewing store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ztg3Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Primary&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hsy1F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastEditorUserId="97" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T04:23:50.143" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T18:16:36.380" Title="Should I worry about blow-off?" Tags="|fermentation|primary|blow-off|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2011-08-03T02:31:31.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from the mess it seems fine to me.  Remove and clean the airlock.  Resanitize the airlock and put it back in the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just have a very good ferment.  10lbs of LME in a 5-6 gallon batch is a lot, so its not a surprise to have the aggressive ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T02:31:31.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2011-08-03T02:39:33.917" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're experiencing a &quot;blow-off&quot;.  Often, people will replace their airlock with a &quot;blow-off tube&quot;, usually one with the same OD as the airlock so it can fit in the same hole on the lid.  The worry with continuing to use the airlock is that … especially if one of those airlocks has residual plastic across the bottom of the post that fits into the grommet on the lid of the bucket … the airlock could itself become clogged (with trub or hop material) and create a high-pressure situation that would eventually breach either the airlock or the lid, and send beer flying everywhere.  Better, instead, to redirect the blow-off krausen through a tube into another water vessel, creating a large-scale airlock, and one that contains all that blow-off matter for easy cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, clean the external surfaces, and the airlock, and replace it, or replace it with a blow-off tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&quot;Wild&quot; fermentation generally refers to using the natural (wild) yeasts in the air to inoculate your wort instead of a controlled yeast addition.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T02:39:33.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2011-08-03T03:55:10.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be that the warm summer temperatures are creating a more vigorous fermentation than you're used to. Aside from the problem due to blow off described above, I'd be a little worried that the temperature of the fermenting beer has gotten too high. Ale yeasts produce the cleanest tasting beer at temperatures below 65 F. Above that the yeast produces esters, giving the beer a fruity character that's not appropriate to many styles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, given the aggressive hop schedule of that recipe, I doubt you'd notice a slight increase in ester formation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had good results putting my primary fermenter in a water bath and even adding frozen bottles of water to keep the temperature down. No point in doing this for the batch you're brewing now, but for subsequent batches, you might give it some thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T03:55:10.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4784" CreationDate="2011-08-03T09:21:27.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of yeast in grams/l will most likely be negligible. If you want to now exactly how much yeast is in your beer, you have to do cell counting, which is a bit involved and requires a microscope plus additional equipment. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/cell_count.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs has a description&lt;/a&gt; of how to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T09:21:27.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="268" CreationDate="2011-08-05T20:28:00.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made an espresso stout, where the espresso was added at bottling.  I actually dissolved the sugar into the still-hot espresso; cooled it, then mixed both in.  It turned out very well, with a nice amount of aroma and flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part-way through drinking it I discovered that pouring the yeast as well as the beer brings out much more of the flavor--it seems to be somewhat locked in the yeast layer of the bottle.  To do this I poured all but ~1oz of beer, and swirled the bottle until the yeast had mixed into the remaining beer and poured it into the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T20:28:00.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4801" CreationDate="2011-08-06T18:27:27.833" Score="12" ViewCount="4757" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am really struggling to get the carbonation of my beers right. They either seem to turn out too flat or too carbonated. I take care in calculating the correct amount of bottling sugar for the beer style, but results always seem unsatisfactory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I don't like overcarbonated beer I always now err on the low-side but it's annoying that I can't get this right, and not getting this right can ruin an otherwise good beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two hypotheses : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(i) for a 3-5 gallon batch the sugar quantities are so small that small inaccuracies in my measurements translate to large differences in carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(ii) homebrew carbonation has a different quality to commercially brewed beers for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that carbonation has already been discussed a lot here, but has anyone got any specific pointers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T04:17:47.787" Title="How to get the carbonation right in bottled beer" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4797" CreationDate="2011-08-06T22:27:27.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the following calculator and when I started using it, I had much more consistent carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick was to play around with the volumes of carbon dioxide setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, commercial breweries use forced carbonation, so they have more consistent pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T22:27:27.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4797" CreationDate="2011-08-07T19:37:05.860" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bet the problem is how you are measuring your sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people use some fraction of a cup.  Well cups are for measuring liquids, sugar is a solid.  (Any quality baker will tell you they weigh out things like flour and sugar.) Try weighing your sugar with a small gram scale.  You can get them pretty cheap at the grocery store.  Try finding a nice digital one vs. a spring loaded dial type.  This should greatly &quot;tighten&quot; up your measuring inaccuracies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T19:37:05.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4784" CreationDate="2011-08-07T19:48:24.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a pure estimation stand point it will vary too much batch to batch.  If you let a batch sit a week longer than your last batch more yeast will have flocculated out.  If you use a highly flocculating strain you'll have less than a poor flocculated.  Temperature and vibrations from the environment will effect the sedimentation rate.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The only way to know is to count it with a scope and hemacytometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T19:48:24.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4797" CreationDate="2011-08-08T11:55:09.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is the entire batch of beer you find flat, I would estimate it is a sugar issue for sure. If it not and is a bottle to bottle issue, it may be a bottle / capper / cap issue. I'm no pro but that was and still is an issue I have with the bottling process. In bottling solo I found i was not sealing every bottle effectively until I did a check after capping. Just a thought I figured I would throw out there from my time doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1324" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T11:55:09.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2760" CreationDate="2011-08-08T16:28:58.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Updated answer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MOSAIC, MOSAIC, MOSAIC!&lt;/strong&gt; It can range in flavor, but in some beers I've tried it had a ton of guava flavor and aroma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed an almost 100% Mosaic American wheat (50/50 wheat and two-row), with a little Magnum for bittering plus several later flavoring and aroma additions of Mosaic (.5 oz @15min, 1oz @knockout, plus 1 oz Mosaic dry-hop 3 days). It had a ton of guava aroma and flavor. I used chico ale yeast to get a clean profile and let the hops shine through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, a few years ago when this was asked, Mosaic probably wasn't being used and probably isn't in Racer 5. You can get tropical flavors from other hops, especially when layering several varieties (see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old answer from a couple years ago, before I had tried mosaic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aroma you're getting is usually referred to as tropical or tropical fruits. It's related to the grapefruit which is common in citrusy American hops, but it's not the same. If you google around for it you might find some info, but most of these hops will just be listed as &quot;citrusy&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layering several different American hops - amarillo, centennial, cascade, columbus, etc - may give you this effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T05:55:19.383" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T05:55:19.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4806" CreationDate="2011-08-08T16:39:03.143" Score="3" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a recipe that called for some small amounts of LME (.75 lb Wheat LME,&#xA;.5 lb Munich LME). I couldn't get such small amounts of LME at the homebrew store, so on some advice from the people working there I bought 1 lb of wheat and .75 lb Munich grains and did a partial mash to get those flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realized at the end of the recipe, after pitching and sealing the bucket, that I forgot to add a pound of DME. But the recipe stated the OG at 1.060 and I measured mine at 1.0618 after temperature correction. So it seems like this accident actually worked out for the best, and if I had added that DME the OG would have been too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to get as close to the recipe as possible. Does it sound like I will end will end up with something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T17:01:21.180" Title="Followed a recipe, made some changes, got same OG. Think it will taste similar?" Tags="|specific-gravity|extract-plus-grains|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4805" CreationDate="2011-08-08T17:01:21.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say yes, taste wise it will be spot on compared to the original recipe. I'd also venture a guess that the recipe was based on an OLDER recipe which used those specific grains, but was converted to extract for the convenience of extract brewers. Seriously, who measures out liquid extract in units less than a pound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only question is how you got the proper gravity after leaving out a pound of DME. I'd suspect you boiled off a little more than you planned and have less than 5 gallons in the actual fermentor. OR, if you added top-off water before your gravity reading, then your sample isn't totally homogenized and your real gravity is a little lower. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, you are totally fine. RDWHAHB!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T17:01:21.180" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3030" CreationDate="2011-08-08T17:19:36.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to How to Brew, the 1 hour boil is really just for the purpose of the hop editions, and you wouldn't need to boil at all if you're using pasteurized hopped extract, because the boiling is just for pasteurization in that case. My guess is that the 90 minute boil is for the hops, just as Dogfish Head makes 60, 90 and 120 minute versions of their IPA. You need the longer times to get more hop bitterness and flavor - but those beers are all &quot;continuously hopped&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T17:19:36.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4797" CreationDate="2011-08-09T01:01:30.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the calculator linked to, above, for 'temperature' enter the maximum temperature reached by the fermenting beer. The higher the temperature, the less CO2 remains dissolved in the beer, and the more priming sugar is required. Also, try to measure the actual wort temperature, which can be quite bit higher than ambient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T01:01:30.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2011-08-09T18:19:22.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happened to me and the wort that was in the airlock dried and enough pressure built up inside the fermenting bucket that it shot the airlock off hitting the 8 foot roof leaving a nice mess on the roof, wall and floor. Otherwise the beer was still good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just clean it out and place it back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I have been using a blow off tube with its end in a bucket of water. This way it never can make such a big mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T18:19:22.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1431" CreationDate="2011-08-09T19:51:36.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grolsch bottles work fantastically for homebrew &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f81/edworts-apfelwein-33986/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;apfelwein&quot;&gt;apfelwein&lt;/a&gt;, since there aren't any hop chemicals to get skunky. And I used to be OCD about sanitizing the gaskets separately, but it dawned on me that a) it's a ton of extra work and b) the amount of handling involved in re-seating the gasket was probably negating the extra work. So I just fill the bottles with sanitizer and shake well. But I just use the Grolsch bottles for the Montrachet &amp;amp; apple juice, not wanting any extra help in having my homebrewed beer come out weird/bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1616" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T19:51:36.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4812" CreationDate="2011-08-10T00:29:06.940" Score="5" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to brew a banana mead, and would like to start fementation with a Belgian yeast so that it has a good strong banana nose. I will finish with a champagne yeast, so I'm not particularly worried about alcohol tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions? what temp will produce the most banana esthers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T13:18:18.873" Title="Banana Mead Yeast Suggestions" Tags="|yeast|mead|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4811" CreationDate="2011-08-10T00:48:53.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if honey has the appropriate sugar/carbohydrate composition to support banana like ester production, regardless of yeast choice.  The sugars and carbohydrates, not to mention other molecules in barley malt is far more complex biochemically than whats found in honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not shoot for a great traditional mead, aged with bananas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T00:48:53.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4811" CreationDate="2011-08-10T04:13:27.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a beer fermenting now with Wyeast 3711 French Saison, and I can't say for sure because it's still fermenting, but the CO2 coming out of the airlock smells a little banana-y to me. It's also been fermenting pretty strong in my 85 degree apt, which is nice for August.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T04:13:27.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4815" CreationDate="2011-08-10T08:51:14.673" Score="6" ViewCount="1942" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, a bit of background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my 3rd batch of homebrew so I am new to this. I'm using the following: Morgan's Golden Saaz Pilsner can of goo, Fermentis Saflager s-23 yeast and a brew booster (Dextrose, malt and corn syrup).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 2 weeks there was still no bubbling in the airlock so I decided that the yeast must have died and I pitched a 2nd round of yeast and while doing so I noticed a thin rim of krausen on the side of the fermenter. 3 days later there is still no bubbling in the airlock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finally realized I should check the specific gravity and noticed it had gone from 1035 down to 1010. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to bottle a 6 pack and rack the rest off then see how the bottled brew turns out before investing the time in bottling the whole lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question(s) is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will the 2nd round of yeast do to this batch? Is it salvageable or should I not waste time with bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1612" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:43:22.603" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:43:22.603" Title="Pitched unnecessary 2nd round of yeast - what will be the effects?" Tags="|fermentation|troubleshooting|pitch|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4814" CreationDate="2011-08-10T11:58:39.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The second round of yeast will just add a yeasty flavor to the beer if it doesn't flocculate out much.  But the change in flavor will be negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the temperature you were fermenting at all the fermentation could have happened when you weren't paying attention.  If the beer was warm going from 1035 to 1010 overnight is very likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I'd just bottle the whole batch.  And pay close attention to the amount of priming sugar you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T11:58:39.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4811" CreationDate="2011-08-10T12:54:13.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a Hefeweizen yeast.    I've gotten a good &quot;banana bread&quot; flavor out of Wyeast 3787, but you may not want the clove flavors that come with either of those things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always get some gallon jugs to ferment in: try a few different things and see what works best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T12:54:13.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4811" CreationDate="2011-08-10T13:18:18.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should listen to the Basic Brewing podcast on brewing meads with Ale Yeasts. Short answer: the flavors ale yeasts provide to beers are not always transferred into mead flavors because you are fermenting in a totally different medium than grain-based beer. Some yeasts work better than others. Some were great, and some sucked. I have't listened to this episode in a while, but you'd better check to make sure the Belgian yeast you are using isn't one of the yeasts that made the mean in the experiment taste like &quot;burnt rubber&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.libsyn.com/media/basicbrewing/bbr11-08-07meadyeast.mp3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://media.libsyn.com/media/basicbrewing/bbr11-08-07meadyeast.mp3&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T13:18:18.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4820" CreationDate="2011-08-11T01:26:50.330" Score="6" ViewCount="8355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my first batch of beer, a &quot;Nut Brown Ale&quot;, 2 weeks ago. Its initial gravity was 1.040. As per the instructions, I siphoned the beer into the secondary fermenter (a glass carboy) after two days. The airlock had already quit bubbling in the initial fermenter. Its gravity was 1.020 at that point. Today, 10 days after the move to the secondary fermenter, I tested the gravity and it was only at 1.018. The directions on the kit said it should be around 1.008-1.012 after 7 days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It built and maintained positive pressure on the airlock the entire time since I moved it to 2nd fermenter, but I never actually saw bubbles. My room temperature is around 65F at night to 80F in the days. The beer tastes like &quot;beer&quot;, but is kind of weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did I do wrong? Should I add more yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I did the swirling method a few days ago. The airlock has started to show activity and a layer of bubbles has formed at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-08-19T17:46:33.330" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T01:09:47.013" Title="Recover a brew that quit fermenting after I moved to secondary fermenter" Tags="|beer|troubleshooting|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4818" CreationDate="2011-08-11T02:25:11.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gently rouse the yeast by stirring with a sanitized spoon. Try to avoid aeration. See if you can raise the temperature to the mid 70s, then wait for another couple of weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T02:25:11.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4818" CreationDate="2011-08-11T12:00:36.733" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite your instructions moving the beer while it was at 1.020 was probably the problem.  The yeast had stalled out for some reason.  Perhaps under pitching or non healthy yeast to start with.  Or the temp could have dropped too much and the yeast started to go dormant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its always easier to fix stalled ferments when you are still on the primary yeast cake.  Now you have significantly less yeast to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could pitch more yeast.  But doing so right from a standard package will be tough.  There is alcohol present and the yeast will have a hard time getting started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be sure to get the beer to 70F.  THEN try and rouse what yeast you have settled on the bottom.  If the ferment doesn't start then I'd pitch more yeast.  But you really would need to pitch some active yeast.  So get a half gallon growler or something that size, sanitize it and put in a pint and half of simple wort made from DME.  Add your yeast to that, swirl it for a day or two and then add that to the stalled fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making beer is not always a word by word process.  You need to evaluate the beer before doing the next step.  That means paying attention to the gravity before you rack to secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T12:00:36.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4818" CreationDate="2011-08-11T15:00:23.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's also not impossible that the beer is done, depending on the recipe and your techniques.  Can you give us some info on those?  Moving to secondary after 2 days is certainly not a good idea (AAMOF, you seldom need to use a secondary at all), it would be good to rule out other causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T15:00:23.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4814" CreationDate="2011-08-11T23:15:50.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have another vessel, like a carboy, I'd rack the beer into secondary for a week or two to really let the yeast settle out. Since it has nothing to eat it will drop out just like your first pitch did. Having the beer in a transparent vessel will help you see when it's clear enough for bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't be a problem at all. In no way could this ruin the beer. At worst it just needs a bit of extra waiting time for the extra yeast to drop out. It won't leave behind any by-products, since the yeast isn't metabolizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a firm proponent of NEVER throwing away beer, especially if you're new to brewing. I dumped my first few batches due to &quot;problems&quot; which I now know weren't problems at all. Even weird-tasting beer can transform into great beer after months in the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only oozing bacterial infections will make me chuck a batch now. Everything else I bottle and at worst stick it away to check back on it in 3, 6, 9 or 12 months! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T23:15:50.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4814" CreationDate="2011-08-12T04:01:56.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No matter what you decide to do -- bottle now or later -- the yeast will settle once you bottle and refrigerate.  1010 is a good target final gravity for the style, although 1035 seems a bit low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No worries, though!  I agree with the others to not toss the batch.  Even if it's somehow not drinkable (which is pretty hard to do), there are a lot of ways to make good use out of a borderline drinkable batch, such as a bit pot full of beer brats!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1374" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T04:01:56.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4797" CreationDate="2011-08-12T04:17:47.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just in case there's some inconsistency in carbonation within a single batch, you should very gently stir the beer after racking the beer into the bottling bucket with the sugar solution.  Don't stir the beer too much that it would cause some splashing or otherwise aerate the beer, but it's good to evenly distribute the yeast and added sugar throughout the beer prior to bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1374" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T04:17:47.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2760" CreationDate="2011-08-12T04:38:12.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brandon nailed it for Racer 5.  There's also a new variety of hops on the scene that you might want to try: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/citra-hop-pellets-1-oz.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Citra hops&lt;/a&gt;.  They're also tropical fruity and new enough that it will make people wonder which hops you brewed with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1374" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T04:38:12.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4826" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-12T05:31:07.153" Score="5" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a standard stainless steel Hansen Coupler for Pin-Lock type Cornelius Kegs.  I'm trying to find the exact specs on both the 1/4 MFL and the inside (female) threads, where it connects to the actual pin lock coupler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coupler and the 90 degree elbow unscrew, and the coupler itself has a male threaded end that I've seen various places refer to as 7/8-14 and 5/8 BSP - but it doesn't seem quite that big.  Is that correct, or is it something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly is a 1/4 MFL in normal terms?  Is it a 1/4in SAE 45 degree flared connector, or is it a 37 degree AN style connector?  Or something else all together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0049MDVLU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the one I have looks like this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1627" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T23:07:35.050" Title="What are the exact dimensions/specs of the fittings on a standard stainless steel Hansen Coupler?" Tags="|equipment|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2011-08-12T15:23:22.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a length of 1/2&quot; I.D. hose, you can make a blowoff hose by incorporating the three-piece airlock. Just take off the airlock cap, remove the dome, and you'll find that the 1/2&quot; I.D. hose fits perfectly on the airlock's center tube!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the airlock becomes significantly fouled, like in your picture, it's probably best to remove it and give it a quick cleaning and re-sanitizing before attaching the blowoff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you catch the blowoff geyser early enough, you can just slap the tubing in there straightaway, leaving the airlock in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T15:23:22.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4818" CreationDate="2011-08-12T15:37:50.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The proper gravity for racking to secondary, or the end of primary fermentation, depends on the style. The BJCP style guidelines for Brown Ale, for instance, call for a FG between 1.008 - 1.013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at 1.020 you're not far off. You could bottle this and it would be perfectly drinkable, if a bit sweeter than the classic style. The OG is also specified at between 1.045 - 1.055 for Brown Ales, which is a bit higher than yours. This means the ABV% will be a bit lower than normal as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Graham noted, you don't necessarily need a secondary fermentation period, especially if you're not dry hopping or spicing. You can just leave the beer in primary well past the end of fermentation, up to four weeks, and let the yeast settle out there instead of in secondary. Then rack straight to your bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T15:37:50.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4829" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-12T19:39:27.567" Score="7" ViewCount="2372" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Does anyone have any tips for helping a beer clear out sulfur faster?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a straight Hefe (half wheat, half 2-Row) and use White Labs seasonal &quot;Bavarian Hefe&quot; yeast, WLP351. The beer was made two weeks ago and it threw the &lt;strong&gt;strongest sulfur of any beer I've ever made&lt;/strong&gt;. It was stronger than appelwine even, and that stuff smelled like rhino farts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously. My entire house stunk during primary fermentation, and that's with the carboy being stuck in a closed fermentation fridge in a closed laundry room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind drinking Hefe's young, but even now there's still a strong-ish sulfur smell to the carboy. The sample was at 1.009, and it tastes fine, but the aroma is still a little off.&#xA; I racked to secondary last night, which I normally don't do, just to free up a carboy, and also in the hope that the racking speeds up the yeast re-metabolizing/eating/whatever those sulfur compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping to keg or bottle this thing soon, but I'm afraid to do so until the sulfur is gone. I don't know if its possible to &quot;lock in&quot; sulfur by crashing and kegging, so I was a little nervous. The beer took off at kinda high temps, like low 70's for the first day of active fermentation. I didn't have my temp controller set low enough. It went down to 65F on about the 2nd day of strong activity and stayed there for a week. I raised it to room temps a few days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any tips I'd appreciate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-06-01T02:33:29.960" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T02:33:29.960" Title="Strong Sulfur from WLP 351 - how to clear it up quickly?" Tags="|fermentation|aroma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4829" CreationDate="2011-08-12T20:14:03.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try to bubble some co2 through the beer to off gas the aroma.  If you connect the gas line to the out post and turn on the co2 and then release the valve at the top.  I have done this with cider and it has worked pretty well.  Not sure if it will work on beer but the principle is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T20:14:03.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4829" CreationDate="2011-08-12T20:28:35.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In winemaking, we can eliminate excess sulfur a few different ways.  Ones that come to mind that might work for beer are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Splash rack: rack your beer into another carboy.  set the end of the siphon hose high up into the receiving vessel so that the beer runs down the wall of the carboy.  You typically avoid this because you don't want to oxidize the beer, but the sulfur will react with the oxygen and leave you with a clean beer that doesn't smell of sulfur.  Before you do this with the full batch, test it by running off a pint this way and see if the smell reduces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copper: pull a cup of the stinky beer into a pint glass.  Stir it with a piece of copper pipe or tubing.  The copper might react with the sulfur to eliminate it.  If this work, you could splash rack your beer into a second vessel, passing it through a length of copper pipe or tubing.  Better yet, splash-rack it across a sheet of copper flashing folded into a long V-shaped channel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These methods work in winemaking.  I'd try them in my beer if I ran into this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T20:28:35.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4826" CreationDate="2011-08-13T01:51:10.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, partial answer - I went to the local pipe fitting shop, and I found that the 1/4&quot; MFL is a 45* SAE 1/4&quot; flare connector - it is also compatible with the 37* -4AN connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still at a loss as to the threads on the disconnect itself though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1627" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T01:51:10.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-14T18:31:13.043" Score="4" ViewCount="823" Body="&lt;p&gt;My barley wine has been brewing for two weeks it should have be 1108 after 4-6 days its currently still fermenting at 1025.Its been at a constant temp of 22 degrees. However when yeast was added it was a bit to warm at 28 degrees is there anything I can do to speed up the fermentation process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-08-15T16:39:42.323" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T16:39:42.323" Title="Barleywine fermentation is slow. How can I speed it up?" Tags="|beer|fermentation|barleywine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4834" CreationDate="2011-08-14T18:51:04.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rousing the yeast and fermenting at warmer temperatures will speed fermentation. However, particularly with a barley wine -- where there are a lot of sugars present -- it can take more than a week for fermentation complete.  If the gravity continues to go down, my advice is to leave it alone.  If the gravity stops changing over the course of several days, and it is still significantly higher than your expected finishing gravity, you may want to pitch more yeast.  If you do, pay attention to the alcohol tolerance of the strain you use.  For this purpose, brewers will often use champaign yeast, because of its high alcohol tolerance. (15-17 percent)  Although champaign yeast produces a very dry, clean taste, the first yeast strain should have contributed its flavor already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, you seem to be in a hurry.  Barleywine is a style that rewards patience.  I have a barley wine from Sun King here in Indianapolis that is two years old and is only just now reaching its prime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T18:51:04.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4838" CreationDate="2011-08-14T22:18:24.767" Score="8" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fly sparge directly into my boil kettle and in general I have the heat on while I'm doing this.  When this was on my stove it wasn't powerful enough to get the water boiling before finishing the sparge so it saved me a bit of time.  Now I have an outdoor burner that is very powerful.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering is it ok to start it boiling while sparging or should I wait till sparging is done?  Specifically, why should I do one or the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-08-15T10:40:42.693" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T02:12:34.883" Title="Fly Sparging: Can I start boiling straight away" Tags="|beer|techniques|sparge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4837" CreationDate="2011-08-15T00:44:09.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's totally fine.  The ideal situation would be to have it come to a boil just as you stop sparging and close the valves.  I'd experiment with collecting say a gallon and a half first, then fire up the kettle.  Next time adjust the &quot;kick-off&quot; volume and start the fire then adjusting to get to a boil just as the sparge ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concern with boiling to aggressively early on would be over wort darkening.  I imagine it might be tough to calculate your boil off rate too that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll definitely save some time to have the wort heating to a boil while sparging.  I think a lot of people do it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do achieve boil prior to finishing the run off, I would just count it towards the a good hot break.  I wouldn't start my hop timing and additions until I finished collecting all my volume.  Again, hopefully you time it right so you have a good boil just as you finish collecting (or soon there after).  I typically boil of 75 minutes anyway, &quot;pre boiling for 15 minutes before I start into the 60 minute hopping schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T00:44:09.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-15T09:58:04.103" Score="2" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say Yoda brews in Dagobah before Luke's arrival. For my next batch I would like to make a &quot;Yoda Beer&quot;, what kind of beer would Yoda brew? Ale? Lager? which variety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1632" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T09:58:04.103" Title="What kind of beer would a Yoda Beer be?" Tags="|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-08-15T16:22:46.853" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4841" CreationDate="2011-08-15T13:10:08.600" Score="4" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a follow-up to this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4629/long-cooling-before-pitching&quot;&gt;Long cooling before pitching&lt;/a&gt; -- read that for background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I aerate to add oxygen to my wort by pouring back and forth between buckets.  If I wait before pitching, in order to cool the wort further, can I aerate the wort before putting it in the chiller to cool?  I have been waiting until after the wort cools completely before aerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T14:53:46.240" Title="Long cooling before pitching -- aerate now or later?" Tags="|beer|techniques|aeration|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4840" CreationDate="2011-08-15T14:53:16.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well your aeration method will be more efficient if done while cool.  As the warm wort won't hold as much dissolved oxygen.  Furthermore, the warmer the wort the faster oxidative (staling) reactions will occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I make lagers I chill with my IC down to 65-70F, transfer to my fermentor then put it in my fermentation fridge overnight to get it to 50F (fermenting temp).  Then I aerate (oxygenate actually with pure O2) and pitch yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in my opinion, its best to aerate while cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T14:53:16.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4834" CreationDate="2011-08-15T16:24:40.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't want a BW to finish at too low a final gravity.  The 1.025 it's at right now is just about perfect.  But it's really hard to say what's going on without knowing your recipe, techniques,and OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T16:24:40.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4843" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-15T16:49:49.780" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-08-15T16:49:49.780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T16:49:49.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4844" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-15T16:49:49.780" Score="0" Body="Is a recognized style of strong ale (BJCP 19b &amp; 19c). It is noted for it's high alcohol content and strong flavors and aromas" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-08-15T16:49:49.780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T16:49:49.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4845" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-15T17:54:41.307" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-08-15T17:54:41.307" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T17:54:41.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4846" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-15T17:54:41.307" Score="0" Body="The technique of making beer from malted grains instead of using malt extract for the base sugars." OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-08-15T17:54:41.307" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T17:54:41.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4847" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-15T17:56:56.640" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-08-15T17:56:56.640" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T17:56:56.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4848" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-15T17:56:56.640" Score="0" Body="The liquid extracted from the mashing process during the brewing of beer or whisky. Wort contains the sugars that will be fermented by the brewing yeast to produce alcohol." OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-08-15T17:56:56.640" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T17:56:56.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4849" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-15T18:07:11.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling is an important part of the beer-making process. It accomplishes several main tasks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitizes the wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extracts bitterness, flavor and aroma from the hops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Denatures any remaining enzymes from the mash, fixing the proportions of wort sugars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Concentrates the wort by boiling off water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allows for coagulation and removal of excess (often undesirable) protein and polyphenol compounds from the wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drives off S-Methyl Methionine (SMM), a natural component of malt, which is the precursor to Dimethyl Sulfide (DMS), a sulfur compound produced during fermentation of beer that has the aroma of cooked or creamed corn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops added at different points provide different qualities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adding hops early in the boil (typically 60 to 90 minutes before flame-out) extracts bitterness from the hops by &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isohumulone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;isomerizing&lt;/a&gt; certain hop resins (mostly alpha-acids).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adding hops later in the boil (typically 15 or less minutes left) extract flavors from the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adding hops extremely late in the boil (typically with 5 or less minutes left) extracts hop aromas.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T16:16:37.857" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T16:16:37.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4850" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-15T18:07:11.317" Score="0" Body="The process of heating the wort to 100 deg. C or higher, causing the wort to boil. Hops are most often added during the wort boil." OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T18:16:28.847" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T18:16:28.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4853" CreationDate="2011-08-16T00:30:43.683" Score="8" ViewCount="2028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew ten-gallon batches of beer split into two fermentors.  The last batch that I kegged had one infected fermentor, while one remained uninfected.  One bucket showed a white powdery substance covering the remnants of the krausen, as well as an oily and whitish film on the surface; the other looked normal.  I understand that there are only a few organisms known to grow in beer.  Is there a way to identify which bug has contaminated the brew?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the various organisms are different colors?  Perhaps the texture varies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T11:31:27.243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T11:32:51.720" Title="Can a contaminted brew be identified by sight?" Tags="|beer|contamination|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4851" CreationDate="2011-08-16T10:52:08.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think people who are well versed in certain areas of microbiology may be able to tell if something was a wild yeast, bacteria or mold.  However, it would require a little more lab work and inspection to determine which strain per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I for one am glad I can not identify the bugs by eye, as it would indicate I'd had enough infections to do so! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T10:52:08.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4851" CreationDate="2011-08-16T13:13:56.157" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of a couple of ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull a sample and look at it under a microscope.   Bacteria and yeast cells look quite different from each other.   After you get an idea of what they look like, you can look around online for pictures of various souring organisms (&lt;em&gt;acetobacter, lactobacillus, brettanomyces, enterobacter, pediococcus, etc&lt;/em&gt;.).   That would get you close as far as which genus it's from, but as brewchez says, you'll need more labwork to find the actual species.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull a sample and smell and taste it.   if you smell or taste vinegar, it's probably &lt;em&gt;acetobacter&lt;/em&gt;, a yogurt-like sourness would be &lt;em&gt;lactobacillus&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;pediococcus&lt;/em&gt;, poop?  probably &lt;em&gt;enterobacter&lt;/em&gt;, barnyard/cherries/leather &lt;em&gt;brettanomyces&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a good chance that it's a combination of organisms, so you'll wind up with a mixture of those smells and flavors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only had one accidental souring, and it actually tasted pretty good, so I just drank it pretty quickly.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T13:13:56.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4851" CreationDate="2011-08-16T13:40:40.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with baka's approach, and for the general question of &quot;Name That Micro-Organism,&quot; his answer is best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific case, though, I would bet that your beer is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; contaminated.  White film or clumps happen all the  time - it can, on occasion, be a lacto contamination, but usually it does not affect the flavor or aroma of the beer at all.  Google it.  Or read &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2644/what-kind-of-infection-is-this-and-is-the-beer-ruined&quot;&gt;this &lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4470/what-is-this-white-stuff-on-the-surface-of-my-beer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3746/what-is-the-white-film-on-my-beer-in-my-bottles&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll admit, it's curious that it only grew in half your batch, but nonetheless, this is a common occurrence and not necessarily and indicator of spoilage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RDWHAHB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T11:32:51.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4855" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-16T17:41:35.343" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T17:41:35.343" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T17:41:35.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4856" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-16T17:41:35.343" Score="0" Body="The process of moving beer or wine into larger storage containers and sealing them for later consumption. Generally carbonated using CO2 or beer gas (70/30 Nitrogen/CO2)." OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-03-03T02:07:15.483" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T02:07:15.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2011-08-16T18:58:06.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thought I would revive this since...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was in Charleston SC last week and found a bottle of Gose Bier at the Charleston Beer Exchange.  It's not cheap but its straight from Lipsig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="420" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T02:55:51.400" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T02:55:51.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4860" CreationDate="2011-08-16T23:53:40.780" Score="5" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I accidentally grabbed the wrong fermenting carboy today, this one started fermenting 3 days ago, but already has a gravity of 1.010 (it got a little warm up to 78F). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before we noticed it was the wrong batch we had already added the priming sugar for bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should we continue on with bottling, or try to move it to another carboy?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fear bottle bombs if we bottle, but with that low of a gravity it seems like it would be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: I decided to move it to another bucket to further ferment. (Seems like that was the right decision) I also added a little bit more yeast (not an entire vile, just a bit saved from previous batches) since I threw out the entire yeast cake. I am just curious how the sugar will effect it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt;: added another question about the &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4865/priming-sugar-affect-on-fermentation&quot;&gt;affects of the sugar&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T14:12:48.897" Title="Referment after Adding Priming Sugar" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2011-08-17T01:28:12.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not continue with bottling it.  I'd rack it back into a carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T01:28:12.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2011-08-17T01:35:53.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if the yeast have eaten the bulk of the sugars in the wort, fermentation is not complete. For one, the yeast has probably not flocculated completely yet, so you would get lots of sediment and yeasty flavors in your beer. Secondly, the beer is still very green. The yeast will continue operating on the beer, breaking down impurities and cleaning everything up (which might be really important if you fermentation temp crept up so high). I would move it back to a carboy for now and check back again in a week or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T01:35:53.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-17T08:51:40.007" Score="10" ViewCount="3722" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time brewing and I've followed the instructions from a kit. It says to leave the beer in the key for two weeks and its ready when it stops being cloudy. Its now been a little over three weeks and the beer is still cloudy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I do at this point? Can I assume that it's been there long enough and this batch is just going to be a bit cloudy. Or do I leave it longer and wait till it stops being cloudy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:44:56.510" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:44:56.510" Title="How do I decide if the beer is ready? Is my fermentation complete?" Tags="|beer|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4861" CreationDate="2011-08-17T09:24:21.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a difference between a beer being &quot;Ready&quot; and fermentation being complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to make sure fermentation is complete is by checking the gravity.  If the gravity hasn't changed for 3 days, then fermentation is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a beer to be ready, it depends on a lot of factors (e.g. style, ABV, hops, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering it's your first batch, I'd just assume it's going to be cloudy. Bottle it, enjoy it, and start the next batch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1637" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T09:24:21.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4861" CreationDate="2011-08-17T13:20:38.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to really now is to use a hydrometer to measure gravity.  Visual cues are not reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can consider the beer done when the gravity of the beer has fermented an expect range from the start.  To clarify most brewing yeasts will attenuate (lower gravity/sugar content) by 70-75%.  So if your beer started at 1.050OG and us now at 1.012 or so, you are likely done.&#xA;You don't have to hit exactly 1.012 a point or two over or under is also fine.  For first time brewers its a good idea to check it one day, then check it again a couple days later to be sure its still not going down.  The changing gravity means some sugar is still being consumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not have a hydrometer to measure the gravity of the beer, then I'd recommend leaving it in the fermentor for at least two weeks, and try and get it a little warmer (around 70F) for the last couple days to be sure it finishes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-08-22T14:39:01.277" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T14:39:01.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2011-08-17T13:23:18.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would leave it in the bottling bucket with an airlock or cover it with a big piece of foil.  Let it ferment out.  That might help with potentially off flavors from the original hot ferment.  Give it a week then bottle it, and the other batch in one big session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother moving back to the carboy as you'd just keep increasing the risk of contamination and oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T13:23:18.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4868" CreationDate="2011-08-17T14:11:57.293" Score="10" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I screwed up took a batch that had only been fermenting for 3 days and started to bottle it before I realized it was the wrong one. [&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4858/referment-after-adding-priming-sugar&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During this screw up I ended up added the priming sugar then putting it back to ferment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How will this sugar affect the fermentation process and final beer? Should I add more sugar when I go to bottle it?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T15:57:33.830" Title="Priming Sugar Affect on Fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4865" CreationDate="2011-08-17T14:47:40.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would imagine the amount of sugar you added for bottling wasn't a whole lot, so I can't see it having much of an effect on the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You definitely need to add more sugar at bottling time unless you don't want any carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T14:47:40.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4865" CreationDate="2011-08-17T14:52:34.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It wont affect the beer enough for you to notice, as long as you didnt aerate the wort when adding the priming sugar. Let it sit for a week to ferment the sugar you just added and then prime and bottle as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T14:52:34.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4865" CreationDate="2011-08-17T15:57:33.830" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think of it this way. Sugar has a yield of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-4-1.html&quot;&gt;46 PPG&lt;/a&gt; (points per pound per gallon). Say you added 1 Cup of sugar to your batch. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugar#Baking_weight.2Fmass_volume_relationship&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, that is ~7oz of sugar. If this was a 5 gallon batch, your result is that you effectively added 46*(7/16)/5 = 4 points to the original gravity of your beer. Not much to make a huge difference. Give it a week to ferment the extra sugar and then bottle it like you would have done normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T15:57:33.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4872" CreationDate="2011-08-17T18:34:14.260" Score="6" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know if you are adding the yeast directly to the wort you want to keep the temperature similar to that of your eventual fermentation temp to minimize shock to the yeast. However, I plan to make a starter, flocculate the yeast in the fridge, and then pitch the slurry. This being the case, I'm not worried about shocking the yeast with a temp change. Can I up the temp of my starter given this information to encourage faster yeast growth? Will off flavors get into the beer even if I only pitch the slurry and throw out the beer from the starter? Are there other potential problems, and what would be an ideal temp for the starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T19:43:30.573" Title="Can I do a high temperature starter?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2438" CreationDate="2011-08-17T18:49:20.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used irish moss in a pumkin ale that I just brewed with pumkin in it. It doesnt seem to be overly cloudy. Not sure if the irish moss helped or if I just got lucky. But maybe this will help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1532" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T18:49:20.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4869" CreationDate="2011-08-17T19:07:43.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd keep it below 80, but other than that, yes, you can do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T19:07:43.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4869" CreationDate="2011-08-17T19:43:30.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pitching the slurry is key to your process here.  The higher temp will put some less desirable flavors into the starter wort.  So crash chilling and pitching the slurry is the best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I remember hearing a podcast with Chris White from White Labs say they propagate most yeast (even lager yeasts) at 80F.  Most yeast grows best at temps above normal ferment temps.  You are on the money with your process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T19:43:30.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-18T13:51:41.333" Score="4" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I racked my Pumpkin Ale into a carboy last night and it seemed chunky or thick. Is this a product of using the Pumpkin in the brew? I siphoned as much as I could but I questioned how much of the &quot;thick stuff&quot; should go into the secondary. It smelled great and had a great color, so I think it is going to turn out great. But can anyone offer insight on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can post a picture of the carboy if it helps... I really hope this works out in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an extract kit from Midwest Brewers Supply. I used canned pumpkin per the recipe with spices that came with it. I added extra pumpkin last 20 of the boil(many people suggested it on their site). I added a bit of pumpkin pie spice. It was in the primary for 13 days at around 70deg. It has a great aroma to it and cool color. Part of the batch has what I would consider normal consistancy of beer, there was just a bit of think stuff on top of the regular sludge on the bottom of the bucket. I cannot acess the recipe online right now (work) but I can do that later if you need me to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1532" LastEditorUserId="1532" LastEditDate="2011-08-18T18:44:49.807" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T20:33:56.447" Title="Thick/Chunky Pumpkin Ale" Tags="|racking|ale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4873" CreationDate="2011-08-18T19:27:49.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pumpkin leaves a ton of goo in the fermentor. It's mostly fiber, which is what makes pumpkin such a good food for you. Whatever is oozing around in the beer will undoubtedly settle down and sink to the bottom over time, it might just take a few extra weeks. The colder you can keep the secondary, the better. Go ahead and rack it if it smells good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If after another 3 weeks, its still looking gooey, then I'd suggest using gelatin to help clear it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T19:27:49.957" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4873" CreationDate="2011-08-18T20:33:56.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the sludge is starch and carbohydrates from the pumpkin.  The only solution is to wait for it to settle out naturally.  Getting the beer as cold as possible will make it happen faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wouldn't attempt to cold crash it until fermentation is done.  But it might be hard to get an accurate gravity reading with the starches in there.  Doubtless some of them have solubilized in the boil and will contribute to a nonfermentable percentage of gravity points.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T20:33:56.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4879" CreationDate="2011-08-18T21:56:09.550" Score="20" ViewCount="57039" Body="&lt;p&gt;My instructions that came with my kit said that I should let the bottles sit for 3 days, then age in the fridge for 10 days. If I don't refrigerate, will I get bottle bombs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advice on forums and other places says to leave them in the bottle for two weeks or even upwards of a month, I doubt every brewer has enough fridge space to store 5+ gallons of beer for 1 or 2 months. So, I am inclined to think they won't blow, unless I bottle with too much unfermented sugar in them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will leaving them out in room temp, cause them to pop?&#xA;Are there any other reasons for me to refrigerate my beer, aside from taste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-08-19T17:46:52.847" LastActivityDate="2019-01-19T22:28:27.603" Title="Am I required to refrigerate bottles after bottling?" Tags="|beer|bottling|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2011-08-18T22:07:11.147" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll only get bottle bombs if you over-prime or bottle too early (or have an infection).  The difference between fridge, celler and even hot (80-100+°F) temps will not cause a normally-carbonated beer to explode, or it'd be happening commercially all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, heat and temp fluctuations aren't ideal for your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure fermentation is finished when you bottle.  Don't over-prime.  Be clean.  Then just keep the bottles in the coldest darkest place you have access to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T22:07:11.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2011-08-19T11:36:28.863" Score="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;DO NOT put them in the fridge after three days.  You'll want to store the newly bottled beer at around 70 degrees for a few weeks.  Since you are bottle conditioning, the yeast will need time to carbonate the beer.  If you put the beer in the fridge now, the yeast will drop out before it finishes eating the priming sugar, and &lt;strong&gt;you'll have flat beer.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to bottle bombs, you just have to avoid too much fermentation in the bottle.  You do this in two ways: 1) Make sure that fermentation is finished before bottling, by taking successive hydrometer readings and noting no change for a few days. This allows you to know, for sure, how many fermentables are in the bottle. 2) Make sure to calculate and measure your priming sugar accurately.  This point is often missed.  Beer making instructions usually assume a 5-gallon volume when specifying how much priming sugar to use.  You will probably have to adjust this, since &lt;strong&gt;typically the volume of beer you collect is not exactly 5 gallons.&lt;/strong&gt;  Here is one calculator that can help with that: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot;&gt;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T11:36:28.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2438" CreationDate="2011-08-19T20:07:58.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do yourself a favor and try Southern Tier Brewing Co.s' Pumpking.  I have typically not really dug pumpkin beers (witness Dogfish Heads garbage), but this one is really great.  Not overly spiced, but the Pumpkin comes through great.  The challenge is I think they use a partial lactic fermentation, which you can probably find some more info on via Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1642" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T20:07:58.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2760" CreationDate="2011-08-19T20:45:39.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My buddy did a Pliny the Elder clone but he used 100% Simcoe.  This thing came out like an orange bomb in the nose!  It was actually really great.  Simcoes can be hard to find if they're not in season though.  I'm not even sure if Hopshack or other such places have them (and unfortunately can't check b/c my work's internet blocks them!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1642" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T20:45:39.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4920" CreationDate="2011-08-19T22:47:50.003" Score="7" ViewCount="3002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been cleaning my carboys with oxy-clean and it works wonders... no need to even brush (which is important if you're using the plastic 'Better Bottles').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I decided to throw all my vinyl tubes in the warm oxy for a couple of hours. I rinsed the tubes really well by running high-speed hose water through them (shot 30 feet into the yard), but when they dried, they all had a haze on them--even the brand new, never used ones. I doubt it will impart any flavor or hold any bacteria, but I really don't like it. If I put a q-tip in the end and rub the inner wall of the tube, the haze comes right off, but I don't have a way to rub the entire length of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else encountered this?  What did you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="2725" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T12:09:41.217" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T12:09:41.217" Title="Prevent haze on the inside of vinyl tubing when cleaning" Tags="|cleaning|tubing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4693" CreationDate="2011-08-19T22:55:22.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetaldehyde is a compound that causes off flavors and aromas in beer, often described as tasting and smelling like green apples, cut grass or green leaves, pumpkin, or latex paint, and is sometimes described as giving beer a green character. I think this is what you're tasting. This compound is formed by an intermediate step in the conversion of sugar to ethanol by yeast. Under ordinary circumstances, any acetaldehyde formed during fermentation will eventually be taken up and converted by the yeast. The most common cause is removing the beer from the yeast too early, before the yeast has a chance to complete fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T22:55:22.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4837" CreationDate="2011-08-19T23:18:08.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dozens of home brewers I have seen start heating before sparge is complete.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No home brewers I have seen (out of dozens) attain a boil before sparge is complete.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could get higher caramelization (could be good or bad) because your early runnings are going to be higher in sugar, and you've got a big flame under them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can save some time in your brew day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can cause a problem replicating recipe / documentation issue (you'd need special notation to document this boil time that wasn't really a boil because not all wort was present).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lengthened boil could affect recipe in that more evaporation will occur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will be unable to get a true &quot;pre-boil gravity&quot; measurement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-01-28T02:12:34.883" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T02:12:34.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2011-08-19T23:29:53.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vigorous fermentation is good.  But loosing beer is bad.  As suggested, for this batch, just keep cleaning the air lock.  There are some things you might try on your next batch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purchase some &quot;Fermcap-S&quot; at your local homebrew store or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/fermcap-s-foam-inhibitor-1-oz.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;here&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/fermcap-s-1-oz.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;here&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, for instance.  This stuff, like magic, breaks up the foam, and does not cause significant ill  effects on your resulting beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a larger fermentation vessel or make smaller batches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a blowoff tube, which is a vinyl tube that you connect in place of the air lock on one end, and is submersed in a bucket of sanitizer on the other end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had air locks shoot literally to the ceiling, but that was before I started keeping Fermcap-S on-hand.  Note that used in the fermenter, Fermcap-S increases the bitterness of your beer (retained IBUs) by about 10%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2011-12-22T18:16:36.380" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T18:16:36.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4901" CreationDate="2011-08-20T16:25:03.397" Score="1" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background: A friend of mine does ten gallon batches of big beers, so has a lot of grain.  After mashing, his technique is to fly sparge with 170 degree water.  I understand this shuts-down enzymatic conversion.  He'll run out of sparge water, drain maybe 2/3 of the liquid from mash tun, and then lets me do whatever I want with the mash tun in order to make a second-run (partigyle) beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do during his sparging is to create a separate small mash with two pounds of two row, and get the enzymatic activity going well there.  Then, when the large mash tun becomes available, I adjust the temperature there to normal mashing temperature again (in the 150 F range), then mix in my small mash with the active enzymes (and enough appropriately heated water to mix in and come to rest at normal mashing temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Question: Will the enzymes in the small mash that are added to the large mash cause enzymatic activity in that grain that, earlier, had been &quot;too hot&quot;?  I realize that the first large mash did most of the conversion.  This question is about what is left.  Will the enzymes in the small mash have a positive effect on the conversion of grains from the original mash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please only answer if you include references; we all likely have our ideas in the range of &quot;probably should&quot; or &quot;probably shouldn't&quot; get conversion going in the old grain, but I'm looking for something more definitive, a why it will or why it won't work, if at all possible.  Also, not interested in comments or suggested changes about the background...that's just the way it is, and what I have to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-08-22T11:11:48.543" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T21:21:18.463" Title="Will Adding an Active Mash to a Non-Active Mash Get Enzyme Activity Started Again?" Tags="|beer|mash|conversion|partigyle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4886" CreationDate="2011-08-20T23:37:45.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I don't have references. But I do know that when enzymes are &quot;inactivated&quot; by heat they are irreversibly denatured, destroying them. I'm not sure precisely what you want to have clarified, but the fact is that the only active enzymes will come from your uncooked, active mash. You cannnot &quot;reactivate&quot; the destroyed enzymes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-20T23:37:45.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4888" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-21T00:22:23.870" Score="11" ViewCount="1168" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only solutions I've found are expensive, and involved a pricey piece of equipment called a beer gun.  Is there a way to carbonate my beer before bottling so I can ensure a good carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2012-01-05T19:17:06.960" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T19:17:06.960" Title="Is there a way to use my kegging system to carbonate beer for bottling without a beer gun?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|kegging|keg|packaging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4888" CreationDate="2011-08-21T01:07:40.710" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well you carbonate the beer in the keg the same way as if you were going to serve from the keg. There is no carbonation procedure on the way into the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get carbonated beer into the bottles however, the cheapest way to do it is to jam some 3/8ths inch tubing onto the end of your picnic tap.  Using about an 12 inch piece of tubing you can put the tubing all the way to the bottom of the bottle and fill slowly.  If you use cold bottles you'll lose less carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to turn off the gas and turn my regulator down to near zero pressure.  Bleed the keg completely.  Put the tubing/picnic tap device into the bottle and depress the tap.  Then slowly open the regulator until there is just enough pressure to see the beer start flowing.  Fill 3-4 bottles at a time and cap them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats the cheap way I do it.  I tend to carbonate the beer a little more than I would normally serve it at.  Just by a few more pounds on the regulator during the carbonating process.  That way I lose the extra upon fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never had a judge complain of oxidation or under carbonated beer, and I am only into it for the cost of 12 inches of tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T01:07:40.710" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4891" CreationDate="2011-08-21T14:59:37.740" Score="4" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received a pack of Wyeast American Ale yesterday and popped it into the back of my fridge only to find this morning that it may have partially turned slushy from the (evidently) colder area in the back of the fridge. It definitely wasn't frozen solid, but I could hear a slushy mixture inside. I immediately pulled it out and moved it to another area that I know won't be as cold. I would estimate the duration of time in the fridge was about 18-20 hours (but that time would include chilling from ambient temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I damaged the yeast beyond repair? Is the only way to determine the effect to smack it prior to brewing to see if it swells properly? Any recommendations on a course of action in either case? Should I go ahead and pitch another pack to be sure or is that overkill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T11:09:59.950" Title="Negative effects of Wyeast American Ale 1056 turning slightly slushy in fridge" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4890" CreationDate="2011-08-21T16:26:13.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the yeast probably died when they were frozen, but you still might have enough to pitch. I would make a starter with what you have to proof it. Throw it in a liter of water with 1 cup of dry malt extract, well aerated. If it froths or bubbles pretty soon after you are still good. You can also check out John Palmer's page on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;making starters&lt;/a&gt;, useful information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T16:26:13.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4890" CreationDate="2011-08-22T11:09:59.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smack the pack and find out.  Thats the best part of the smack pack is the viability indicator of a swelling pack.  If it takes a long time to swell up then you probably had significant cell damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be prepared to make a starter (100g DME/1L of water) as a back-up.  Although the best beers are made using a starter so maybe this is the push required to start doing starters regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T11:09:59.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4886" CreationDate="2011-08-22T11:18:23.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of enzymes contributed by only two pounds of additional 2-row is quite small in comparison to the size of the mash you are adding them too.  Conversion is possible, but time-to-convert will be long due to the big dilution of enzymatic activity happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the small amount of enzymes added are capable of doing some additional conversion, but at the cost of extended time.  Remember that you also need those enzymes to convert the 2 pounds of small mash as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see that your proposal will hurt, but I don't see that it helps much either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T11:18:23.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4851" CreationDate="2011-08-22T13:49:30.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also don't think you're infected... If your brew looked anything like mine, don't worry.  Mine turned out to be one of my best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See my similar question here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4470/what-is-this-white-stuff-on-the-surface-of-my-beer&quot;&gt;What is this white stuff on the surface of my beer?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T13:49:30.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4896" CreationDate="2011-08-22T14:39:54.453" Score="7" ViewCount="1050" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am mostly a beer brewer, but recently I have begun experimenting with fruit wines.  In contrast to beer, the wine recipes I am using all say to do the primary fermentation with only a towel or other loose covering over the vessel, and only add an airlock when it is time for the secondary, etc. fermentations.  My  instincts tell me that this is a good way to get an infection, but all of the recipes I have read suggest the technique.  Would it really make a difference if I used an airlock anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1135" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T14:58:46.730" Title="primary fermentation of wine" Tags="|fermentation|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4895" CreationDate="2011-08-22T14:58:46.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;wine's primary fermentation can be airlocked if you like (I've done it with no problems). But if you're fermenting on the fruit then you'll want to stir the fruit back into the fermenting must a few times a day (this is called punching the cap) to keep any particular bit of fruit skin from growing mold (the active yeast fermentation will outcompete any challenging microbes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stirring also adds oxygen which the yeast uses to reproduce/increase their population making the primary fermentation a more hostile place for infection microbes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T14:58:46.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4915" CreationDate="2011-08-22T17:34:07.510" Score="10" ViewCount="2153" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the moment the most frustrating part of my brewday is getting the cold wort into the fermenter. Here is my process. I have a 20 litre saucepan that i use as a kettle that does not have a tap. At flame out I add my immerseion chiller that is plumbed into my kitchen sink tap. When I have reached temperature I remove the chiller and whirlpool and leave it to rest to 30 minutes. I am use a siphon to rack directly into the plastic bucket fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the siphon always gets clogged with the hops after i have only transfered about 20% of the wort. I have also tried carefully pouring the wort through a seive, but this sort of depfeats the point of the whirlpool and also the seive got blocked with hops as well. All in all i end up wasting a lot of the wort because i am afraid of getting a lot trub in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the best processes to use with my current equpment to get the wort into the fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T02:22:53.577" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T02:22:53.577" Title="Process for transfereing from boil kettle to fermenter" Tags="|beer|wort|fermenter|boil-kettle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2011-08-22T17:59:43.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes use a set up similar to your.  After I whirlpool, I'll put my racking can in, but I hold it so its not all the way down sitting in the trub/hot mix.  I hold it about half way.  As I siphon I continuously lower the racking cane, being careful as I get closer to the bottom to not get into the junk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I do is I plan for a half to one gallon of waste.  That way I never have to get into the junk at the bottom.  Wort is fairly cheap and headaches aren't, IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T17:59:43.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4900" CreationDate="2011-08-22T18:31:02.000" Score="6" ViewCount="965" Body="&lt;p&gt;I conquered my first all-grain batch this weekend, and after some early problems constructing my cooler mash tun, it went off without a hitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a Northern Brewer all grain kit, and the recipe called for 9 lbs Belgian Pils Malt. The mash technique called for 160 degree water to be added to the grain and a 1 hour rest at 147 degrees. The mash wound up being just below 150 degrees for one hour. Then, we sparged and boiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things happened here. First, in an hour, the wort reduced from 6 gallons to just over 3 gallons. No biggie here - we topped it off to 5 gallons, mixed well, and measured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OG was 1.060. The expected OG is 1.045. So, either we got 98% efficiency (according to Beer Calculus - &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/826498/belgian-specialty-ale-recipes/patersbier&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://hopville.com/recipe/826498/belgian-specialty-ale-recipes/patersbier&lt;/a&gt; ), or something odd happened on our way to beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pitched the yeast anyway, and now it's in my fermentation cooler at 67 degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any idea what I did here to get such a high gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T18:54:02.713" Title="Curiously high OG after first all-grain batch" Tags="|all-grain|original-gravity|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4899" CreationDate="2011-08-22T18:54:02.713" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd bet that you didn't get it as well mixed as you think you did and you got a false reading.  I've seen it happen many, many times.  The other thing to address is your boiloff amount.  You should be boiling off maybe 1.5 gal. in an hour.  Boiling off 50% of your wort needs to be addressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T18:54:02.713" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4886" CreationDate="2011-08-22T21:21:18.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a guy that does some really informative youtube videos &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/user/BobbyFromNJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Link to you tube channel&quot;&gt;BobbyFromNJ&lt;/a&gt;, and I posed a related question: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are Enzymes Floating Around in the Mash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've watch a few of your videos. Thanks. If you have a minute, I wondered if you could answer this for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Say I have a mash that's been sparged with 170 F water (denatured), and another mash I make fresh that settles at 148 or so. If I adjust the temperature of the denatured mash down to 148, then mix in my fresh mash (with the good enzymes) into the other mash, will some of those good enzymes float over to adjacent grain particles and do any conversion at all? If the enzymes are in solution, it would seem to me like they could act on grist from either mash. But if the enzymes stay inside the grain particles, then the only conversion that would be happening would be in the fresh mash, and it's not doing any good to mix the fresh mash with the sparged mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's Bobby's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, enzymes in a fresh mash will act on any sugar chains they come across. Enzymes do not stay contained withing the endosperm but become distributed in the whole mash including the liquid wort. I've even heard of some folks making up a wort using DME/LME and remashing it with a few pounds of grain in order to make a more fermentable end wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've watched any of these informative videos, you will probably agree that Bobby knows about the molecular mechanics of the mashing process.  So I'm convinced that, given enough time, you would get more conversion than just what the fresh mash alone would have added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T21:21:18.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4903" CreationDate="2011-08-22T21:37:45.050" Score="17" ViewCount="4284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a 2L yeast starter (Wyeast 2633 Octoberfest) and placed in the fridge this morning.  My original goal was to brew tonight but I may not be able to.  Will the yeast colony still be good for a few days if it remains in fridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="921" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T14:52:30.133" Title="How long can a yeast starter survive in the fridge?" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4902" CreationDate="2011-08-22T21:49:11.663" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be fine if you store it in the fridge for up to 1-2 weeks.  I have heard you could let it go longer but to be on the safe side I would use it sooner rather than later.  If you do let it sit longer you could always decant the liquid and add more wort to get it going again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="687" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T14:52:30.133" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T14:52:30.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2011-08-22T23:15:48.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a note to mention that you'll get a much faster cooling rate if you keep both liquids in motion in opposite directions. You get this for free with a plate or counter flow chiller. For an immersion chiller, this requires moving the wort in the kettle in the opposite direction of the water flow thrugh the coil. You can do this either by stirring by hand, or by recirculating the wort with a pump. There are lots of advantages of this teqhnique - improved control of final wort temperature, more hop flavour/aroma and less DMS. Whirpooling with an IM chiller is described in detail at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Whirlpool/Immersion Chiller&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T18:22:29.960" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T18:22:29.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4906" CreationDate="2011-08-23T11:15:20.687" Score="5" ViewCount="2777" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of the high-gravity commercial beers I taste end up coming off as boozy.  What kinds of ingredients or processes will limit this flavor?  I want to brew a big beer, perhaps in the 1.100 neighborhood, but I'm concerned about boozy flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T15:32:12.380" Title="How to avoid a boozy flavor in high-gravity beers" Tags="|beer|ingredients|process|off-flavor|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4905" CreationDate="2011-08-23T12:05:54.853" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As alcohol levels rise in a beer, eventually you can taste it. There is just no way around that part.  However as a brewer you do have control over some of the less desirable tasting higher order (molecularly complex) alcohols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to control the levels of these types of flavors is to pitch plenty of yeast, ferment on the cooler side (that also means starting fermentation on the cool side), provide plenty of oxygen up front, and be patient with the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The patience probably being an oft overlooked part of the process.  It might take a couple months to wait out a proper fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your yeast choice is somewhat style dependent, but look for one that attenuates really well, and plan to ferment on the cooler side of its acceptable range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T12:05:54.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4905" CreationDate="2011-08-23T12:17:09.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you feel about sour beers? I was just reading on &lt;a href=&quot;http://themadfermentationist.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Mad Fermentationist&lt;/a&gt; that sour beers often mask their alcohol content with their other pungent aromas and flavors. And since they attenuate more than a normal brew, you get more alcohol for the same starting gravity, so take that into account as well. A 1.080 sour that gets down to 1.005 should be about the same alcohol as a 1.095 normal beer that only gets to 1.020&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond the sour idea, I'd suggest massive oxygenation, cool fermentation and stepped simple sugar additions. So buy an aeration system, make sure you can ferment in a controlled environment, and add simpler sugars after the primary is down with malt to get that last percent or two of alcohol without stressing out the yeast. Oh, and use a high-gravity strain of yeast as well, like WLP099 or Wyeast 3787 Trappist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T12:17:09.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2011-08-23T15:00:05.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to do the same thing but recently have found these bags &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/large-straining-bag-18-3-4-x-19.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/large-straining-bag-18-3-4-x-19.html&lt;/a&gt; I get the one that is big enough to fit in the bucket and stretch it over the top. I then simply pour the whole boil kettle into the bucket and lift the bag out. The mesh on these is finer than the hop sacks I have been using so I no longer even use them, simply put the hops right into the boil and the bag strains everything but really fine particles. &lt;br&gt; The other benefit is that the hops are not bound up in a little bag so I feel I get more out of them.   &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; So here are some pics from last brew day. I made a pumkin ale using 2.5 lbs of canned pumkin and 1 ounce of pellet hops. This is what was in the filter bag. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2328984952261&amp;amp;set=a.2328984232243.141539.1478820242&amp;amp;type=1&amp;amp;theater&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2328984952261&amp;amp;set=a.2328984232243.141539.1478820242&amp;amp;type=1&amp;amp;theater&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; This is what it looked like after draining &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2328985192267&amp;amp;set=a.2328984232243.141539.1478820242&amp;amp;type=1&amp;amp;theater&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2328985192267&amp;amp;set=a.2328984232243.141539.1478820242&amp;amp;type=1&amp;amp;theater&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; This is all that was left in the bucket (very little of anything made it through) and the stuff that got filtered out, all of it very fine. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2328985352271&amp;amp;set=a.2328984232243.141539.1478820242&amp;amp;type=1&amp;amp;theater&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2328985352271&amp;amp;set=a.2328984232243.141539.1478820242&amp;amp;type=1&amp;amp;theater&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2328985552276&amp;amp;set=a.2328984232243.141539.1478820242&amp;amp;type=1&amp;amp;theater&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2328985552276&amp;amp;set=a.2328984232243.141539.1478820242&amp;amp;type=1&amp;amp;theater&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastEditorUserId="913" LastEditDate="2011-08-28T23:34:24.300" LastActivityDate="2011-08-28T23:34:24.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4905" CreationDate="2011-08-23T15:32:12.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fusel alcohols that you perceive as making the beer &quot;boozy&quot; will eventually age out into esters.  Give the beer time and the &quot;boozy&quot; quality will subside to a greater or lesser extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T15:32:12.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4914" CreationDate="2011-08-23T17:24:18.533" Score="9" ViewCount="35856" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me how to properly use a carbonation stone to carbonate beer in a corny keg?  Particulary how to attach the stone and if it is removed after full carbonation or left in place until the keg is empty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1648" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T14:34:28.777" Title="Using a carbonation stone to force carbonate in corny kegs" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4910" CreationDate="2011-08-23T18:03:46.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used these before.  I attach a piece of tubing to the stone, then the other end to the end of the gas IN dip tube within the keg.  Its sort of tough to get it on the dip tube.  But if you soak the end of the tubing in some hot water it should make it a little easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you set the PSI level on you regulator and let it rip.  I found that to take real advantage of the stone you should adjust the regulator in two stages.  Meaning if you wanted to carbonate at 15PSI, set the regulator to 7.5ish PSI for one full day, then go the rest of the way for the next day or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the beer is carbonated, you can take it out or leave it in.  The only real reason to take it out is if you want to use it for a second keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never found that the using a stone was all that much faster but in theory it is a little bit I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T18:03:46.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4910" CreationDate="2011-08-23T18:08:09.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done this in the past but it has been a while.  You will need a diffusion stone and a lenth of 1/4 ID beverage tubing about the length of the height of the keg.  Attach the tubing to the end of the gas dip tube and place the stone on the other end.  You then set the desired pressure on your regulator and force carb as usual.  It is said to carb a bit faster than normal and also produce finner bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T18:08:09.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2750" CreationDate="2011-08-23T20:39:14.070" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Storing yeast in the fridge (i.e. above 0C/32F) is great if you can use the yeast within a few weeks, or a couple of months at the most. Any longer than that, and cells will die and the yeast becomes less viable, Then, a starter is required to step up the cell count to ensure you pitch enough viable cells. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is storing the yeast in a 25-30% glycerin solution and store it in the freezer. You can store as much or as little as you like, but typically anywhere between 2ml and 20ml. In the freezer, the glycerin solution doesn't freeze, but keeps the yeast very cold, so they go dormant, and can remain that way for years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently took out a 16ml vial, stepped it up to a 500ml starter for 2 days and then again to 2 liters for 3 days. The vial was 3 years old and has made a healthy 2 liter starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages of freezing are that you can have a wide selection of yeast available. The yeast stay viable for years. When you reach the last vial or two, you simply make a starter from that and put that starter into vials for freezing. You can propagate the yeast almost indefinitely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is that you need some extra equipment and have to start preparing the yeast for your brew 3-5 days in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process for harvesting yeast is simple, but more than I can describe in an answer - and photos so are helpful! Theres a great description with lots of good photos &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/guide-making-frozen-yeast-bank-35891/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T20:39:14.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4910" CreationDate="2011-08-23T21:00:07.907" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can carbonate in 2-4 of days if you increase the pressure slowly. Start at 1-2 psi, and just increase the psi a touch every hour or two. The absolute pressure on the regulator isn't important, just work it up slowly towards your final serving pressure. The key is that the regulator is set to a higher pressure than what is in the headspace of the keg, so that CO2 will enter the keg. You can do this 2 ways: either increase the pressure on the regular, or keep the regulator at the same pressure purge some CO2 from the keg to reduce pressure inside the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the keg chilled to serving temperature rather than room temperature will also help it absorb CO2 faster, since CO2 enters solution in cooler liquids faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to removing the stone - my stones are a few years old and have a barb fitting, which is not easy to disconnect, so it's more convenient to leave in place. Some stores are offering carbonation stones with a 1/4 MFL thread so that they can be removed from the end of the hose rather than having to remove the hose itself, which might make moving it between kegs easier. Alternatively, there are corny keg lids with a gas post welded on, that's connected to a hose and carbonation stone. You fit this lid to the keg, hook up the CO2 to the gas post on the lid, carbonate, and when you're done then swap the lid with a regular corny lid. I've not used it, but it sounds like it would make moving the stone between kegs a breeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I carbonate my beers using a stone from time to time - I've got 0.5 and a 2 micron stones. The 0.5 micron stone is best - the bubbles are 1/64th of the volume and there is relatively 4x more surface area than the 2 micron stones, so the CO2 enters solution quicker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2011-08-24T17:20:23.087" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T17:20:23.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2011-08-23T21:21:00.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hop bags are the answer. I use hop bags. You can use multiple hop bags for your multiple hop additions. I tie them to the handle of the brew kettle so they don't come open during the boil. You may want to up the hop quantities a touch (10%?) because you get slightly lower utilization in hop bags. When it's time for racking, chill the wort and then pull the hop bags out. (If you do this in the wrong order the hop bags are extremely hot and hard to handle!) Let the bags drip for a while since a lot of your wort will be stuck in those bags. Then just pour your wort into the fermenting bucket with a good healthy splash to help aerate and you're good to go! No need to whirlpool or run through a filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--Matt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1650" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T21:21:00.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4770" CreationDate="2011-08-23T22:03:59.800" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nutrition schmutrition. Beer is good for ya!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--Matt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this post helpful to you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;____&lt;/strong&gt;_Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;__&lt;em&gt;XX&lt;/em&gt;_No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1650" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T22:03:59.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2011-08-24T00:16:31.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although common practice, adding oxygen into the wort before pitching isn't always a good thing - getting the right amount can be tricky. Too much and the oxygen may stay in the beer causing premature staling. Too little and you may end up with a sluggish fermentation, under attenuation or a banana-easter bomb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxygen is needed by the yeast to synthesize lipids for the cell walls. If lipids can be provided in the wort, then oxygen isn't needed, and the yeast can multiply without requiring oxygen. More details at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/using-olive-oil-instead-oxygen-47872/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/using-olive-oil-instead-oxygen-47872/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T00:16:31.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2011-08-24T01:58:01.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too use a pump to recirculate water through my immersion chiller... without that I would use about 50 gallons or more... I'm not really sure...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I added a pump and used ice water to recirculate, I dumped about 5-6 gallons (the first time you run it the water is extremely hot), and then closed the system... so I guess I use 5-6 gallons and about 30 pounds of ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1651" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T01:58:01.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4919" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-24T02:53:46.793" Score="3" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just built a d-coupler kegerator, and picked up a few pony sanke kegs from a friend.  I've been looking to start filtering some of my homebrew, but all the kits I see online require soda kegs.  Is it possible to use the filter kits with a sanke keg, or is there some technical difference that would make it impossible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastEditorUserId="1381" LastEditDate="2011-08-24T04:18:22.370" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T16:46:46.870" Title="Can I use a filtering kit with sanke kegs?" Tags="|kegerator|kegs|filtering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4882" CreationDate="2011-08-24T04:28:59.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're seeing mineral precipitate left from your hot cleaning solution as it cooled.  I soak my kegs in clean, hot water after I've finishing oxycleaning them, and that usually gets rid of the haze.  Sometimes it doesn't work -- it really depends on the type of water you're using; I had the same problem just using tap water in an area with high mineral content.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never noticed any off-flavors, although it does make my equipment look far more messy than it is!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I noticed @brewchez answered with the same thing first.  S/he should get credit for this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T04:28:59.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4919" CreationDate="2011-08-24T16:46:46.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its still keg to keg filtering.  You'll need to use different fittings from keg to tubing but operationally, its the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T16:46:46.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4923" CreationDate="2011-08-24T17:03:52.787" Score="7" ViewCount="5866" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing belgian beers with belgian pilsner malt, and german lagers with german pilsner malt without really thinking about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what is it that distinguishes these malts to make them most suitable for their respective styles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried chewing on a few, but it's hard to draw a comparison, They both taste grainy and sweet. Is there really a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T21:36:04.847" Title="belgian vs german pilsner malt" Tags="|malt|base-malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4922" CreationDate="2011-08-24T21:36:04.847" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using both for a long time and I don't think there's any more difference between Belgian and German malts than there is between maltsters in the same country.  I interchange them at will, although these days I mainly use Best pils malt (German) for both German and Belgian styles.  I think it's the best tasting pils malt of all I've tried, and I want the best tasting malt for whichever style I make.  Of course, there's absolutely nothing wrong with using the malt from the country of origin of the beer you're making, but to me the differences are so small in this case that it isn't worth the effort to keep both German and Belgian pils malts on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T21:36:04.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4948" CreationDate="2011-08-24T22:26:17.557" Score="6" ViewCount="16743" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tap water where I live is filled with chlorine, flouride, some pretty bad elements such as arsenic, chromium, barium, etc. So I would like to purify my water with either reverse osmosis or distillation. This will remove all contaminates, but also any minerals the water had as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been told that beer needs minerals, the lady at the brew store wasn't exactly clear as to why or what minerals. Several articles I have read, talk about adding gypsum when brewing or re-adding some tap water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What minerals do I need in my water? How can I add them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T23:59:41.730" Title="How can I put minerals back into distilled or reverse osmosis water?" Tags="|water|filtering|sterilization|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4924" CreationDate="2011-08-25T00:25:15.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The minerals that we care about are: calcium, magnesium, bicarbonate, sulfate, sodium and chloride. Different styles want different quantities. You can adjust your distilled water to a particular mineral profile by adding various salts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're best to read Chapter 15 of How To Brew by John Palmer. On older version is online here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T00:25:15.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4933" CreationDate="2011-08-25T01:29:20.817" Score="4" ViewCount="1194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recall tasting a beer a couple years back that, from the first sip, screamed &quot;molasses&quot;. I'd like to impart some of that flavor into a brew I'm concocting, but wasn't sure exactly where to aim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking some 80 L crystal might get me in the right direction. Or perhaps even a small amount of, say, 120 L mixed in with some more in the 40 - 60 range. If I go with too much of the 120, I'm thinking it might be too dark for what I'm looking for, so if I mix that with a somewhat lighter specialty malt, can I get the flavor profile I'm aiming at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-08-25T13:09:35.760" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T05:18:08.167" Title="What kind of malt will add a molasses flavor?" Tags="|flavor|malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-25T10:59:11.853" Score="6" ViewCount="520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not talking about pouring a beer--in the context of rinsing or sanitizing bottles, I'm not quite satisfied just holding each bottle upside down while I wait for the glug-glug-glug of water and air taking turns through the bottleneck. So, short of anything destructive (no shotgunning of bottles) what's method will get me through this the fastest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T21:51:20.067" Title="How do you efficiently empty beer bottles?" Tags="|bottles|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-25T18:37:31.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4927" CreationDate="2011-08-25T11:01:04.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bite the bullet and let the water &quot;glug&quot; out. It's the way God intended it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T11:01:04.113" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-25T18:37:31.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4927" CreationDate="2011-08-25T11:03:11.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hold the bottle at enough of an angle that air can get in while water leaves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&#xA;No glugging&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&#xA;The flow may be slowed by the shallow angle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T11:03:11.130" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-25T18:37:31.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4927" CreationDate="2011-08-25T11:06:21.297" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swirl the bottle. I like to point the bottle down, and draw a circle with it, so to speak. The centrifugal force of the circular motion pushes the beer to the bottle walls and created a void in the center, where air can enter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros: Seems to be the fastest method I've tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons: Is the extra energy worth the time savings? Am I really saving time, when I have to start the whirlpool for each bottle? Do I have the coordination to empty one in each hand without breaking bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T11:06:21.297" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-25T18:37:31.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4927" CreationDate="2011-08-25T11:09:50.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a straw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air can enter the bottle through the straw while beer exits through the neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros: Very efficient&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons: Need a straw. Must consider sanitation of the straw if this is in the context of sanitizing bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T11:09:50.980" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-25T18:37:31.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2011-08-25T12:13:18.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never have the tap running at anything like full, and it normally takes around 30 to 40 minutes (depending on time of year, and therefore tap water temperature).  It's a 10m coil of 10mm copper pipe, so that's about 32 feet of 3/8 inch pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never measured the exact amount I use, but I'd be very surprised if it was more than 50 litres (around 13 US gallons).  After filling a bucket for cleaning, I return the rest of the cooling water to my 200 litre waterbutt, and it never seems to go up by even a quarter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aiming to get it chilled as quickly as possible, just quickly enough, and since we're on a water meter I'm quite conscious of the water I'm using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1661" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T12:13:18.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4926" CreationDate="2011-08-25T13:14:09.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crystal malts don't really get you to molasses in my experience.   The darker you go its more like dried dark fruits.  Molasses is more unique than that.  I'd make the beer you are looking for then substitute some molasses at bottling time with your priming sugar.  You'd need to calculate the amount of priming sugar to remove to compensate for the sugar in the molasses thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Molasses is about 36ppg.  (That is if you were to put one pound in one gallon you'd have an SG of 1.036)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start with maybe 1/3 to 1/2 of your priming sugar with molasses, depending on the style the beer is and how strong its flavor is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T13:14:09.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4937" CreationDate="2011-08-25T13:28:03.117" Score="9" ViewCount="1804" Body="&lt;p&gt;This year has been generous and gave us a great apple harvest. There is even a surplus of them so, I would like to ask you, how to make a cider from apples?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1665" OwnerDisplayName="Arthur" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-08-25T17:51:06.700" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T11:08:33.550" Title="How to make your own cider?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4934" CreationDate="2011-08-25T13:45:19.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cider is basically just unfiltered apple juice. Hard cider is that, plus yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtomakecider.com/&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a detailed set of instructions for creating hard cider. You can stop at the &quot;add yeast&quot; step. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~gunning/scrumpy/makingit.html&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a slightly more technical version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell however, smush the apples. Collect the juice. Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" OwnerDisplayName="Satanicpuppy" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T13:45:19.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4934" CreationDate="2011-08-25T13:57:38.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making cider is actually a pretty simple process—although there are a few steps and precautions to be aware of as well as a few items you'll need. Here are the basic steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acquire apple juice. &lt;strong&gt;Pasteurized juice is best as apples can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cdc.gov/foodborne/juice_spotlight.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;contaminated&lt;/a&gt; with various things that can make you sick. You can use your own juice but realize that if you don't pasteurize it there is risk of illness.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fcs.uga.edu/pubs/PDF/FDNS-E-91.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This PDF&lt;/a&gt; has good information on the process of cider making as well as sterilizing your juice. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choosing and adding your yeast. The yeast is what ferments the sugars in your apple juice, turning them into alcohol and carbon dioxide. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it sit and ferment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle the hard cider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search around online a bit and find a recipe that fits you. Some recipes call for 5 gallons of juice, which—to some people—can be formidable and expensive others are a little more manageable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the very basics of making cider. I recommend you give &lt;a href=&quot;http://makinghardcider.com/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; a read as it goes into much more detail than I am able to give here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2145" OwnerDisplayName="Vecta" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T13:57:38.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4934" CreationDate="2011-08-25T14:12:58.997" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you mean dry, french/english cider for drinking, then the most appropriate way in my opinion is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specialty equipment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermentation bucket sealed with an airlock and that has a tap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast - preferably good quality cider yeast from a brewing shop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Racking cane / siphon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottling tool for easily bottling the cider.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go about it this way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Collect apples. 18-20 kg gives 10l cider. If you have sweet apples, add 3 grams of tartaric acid or 4.5g of citric acid per liter cider. Tartaric is prefered but might not be available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locate an orchard or similar which have equipment to &quot;cold press&quot; it. These places are pretty common in Sweden, but I have no idea if this is the case in other locations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place your juice in the sanitized bucket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour yeast, which has been activated according to instructions sent alongside your yeast, into the fermentation bucket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After a day or so the airlock should start to bubble. Wait another week until the bubbling is slowing, and you can see dormant yeast as a layer at the bottom of the fermentor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(optional) Use the racking cane to transfer into a secondary fermentation bucket, and let the cider mature for one or two weeks. Otherwise, simply wait until bubbling has stopped completely, and yeast has settled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a priming sugar calculator to determine how much sugar to add for the level of carbonation desired (no more than 5 grams per liter). Mix thoroughly, and distribute to your bottles with the bottling tool. Take care to avoid any settled yeast. You will need to siphon the cider to another container, otherwise you cannot mix the liquid without disturbing the yeast. You will lose a bit of cider, but you don't want yeasty cider.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cap the bottles and keep at room temperature for two weeks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refrigerate and enjoy!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This might seem like quite a process - which is because it is. If you want good, quality cider, you need to make an effort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There will always be sedimented yeast in the finished drink if you want it carbonated - you can only decide the amount of that yeast and whether or not it is dead/burst yeast from the initial fermentation or only fresh yeast from the carbonating fermentation. Also, you don't want to shake the bottle prior to drinking. The colder and longer the bottle is stored, the harder the yeastcake at the bottom will be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making cider, wine and beer is fun. Take pleasure in the procedure instead of simply enduring it!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unfermented cider happens to be THE best environment for yeast, and the next best for bacteria - which want a slightly more neutral pH. This is both good and bad - you cannot store cider for more than a few hours safely really. It also means that your yeast will be very happy though. Make sure to pitch the yeast into the juice as soon as you can. I won't make any guarantees and since this is a public site I will suggest doing so within two hours, even though I've been fine with five-six hours aswell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" OwnerDisplayName="Max" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-08-26T11:08:33.550" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T11:08:33.550" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4939" CreationDate="2011-08-26T00:42:56.573" Score="5" ViewCount="608" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I bottle, I follow the typical step of boiling some water, adding bottling sugar, letting it cool, and adding it to the beer that's done fermenting (but still of course has live yeast floating around).  Those little beasties probably would like a sip of O2 to grow better and carbonate the bottle better/faster, but I'm as careful not to add oxygen to the priming solution as I am to keep oxygen out of the beer.  But I got to wondering, &lt;strong&gt;does anyone have any data or experience on aerating the priming solution?&lt;/strong&gt;  Seems like it would be an easy experiment that might have been tried, or maybe some author commented on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T09:01:45.513" Title="Should Priming Sugar Solution Have Minimal Oxygen?" Tags="|bottling|priming|aeration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4938" CreationDate="2011-08-26T01:11:12.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand things, the yeast won't go through a serious growth phase in the bottle.   The pressure and alcohol make for a harsh environment, and you shouldn't be using enough yeast to really consume any oxygen that you would add.   At this point, you really want to avoid oxygenation, so that you limit oxidation flavors in the beer.   Thus, you boil out the oxygen in your priming solution and prevent stirring air into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More oxygen might carbonate faster, but it would probably do so at the expense of cardboard flavored beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T01:11:12.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1618" CreationDate="2011-08-26T01:11:42.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are stuck in the extract world, but you don't want your beer to taste like extract, there is one thing you can do: put your extract in later in the boil.  This may or may not be the &quot;twang&quot; that you're talking about, but it can hide the fact that it's an extract beer from some discriminating folks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no real reason to boil the heck out of your extract, since it's already had the heck boiled out of it to dry it up.  So put maybe 1/3 or so in a full volume boil.  Do your normal recipe, and throw your last 2/3 in 10 or 15 minutes from the end of the boil (I always go completely off-heat to add extract).  Guys that usually can detect &quot;that extract taste&quot; have a harder time detecting that flavor with beer made this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T01:11:42.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4927" CreationDate="2011-08-26T01:42:19.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going with the swirl!  It makes a HUGE difference when dumping 6 liter bottles (I put a 5 gallon batch in 3 of these bad-boys):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/psVc1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;I don&amp;#39;t actually use tap-a-draft, but just MillerCoors Home Draft&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason the swirl works with these is because they're so fat. Now, it doesn't work when you first turn them over.  But once about half of the glugging is done, you can muscle a swirl and the liquid tornadoes out of there on the last third!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might sound like the voice of experience...a friend of mine knows the MillerCoors guy, and these home drafts are not selling very well.  So the distributor picks up the bottles, dumps them, and my friend takes out the 'trash', so to speak.  And so I get bottles with sour beer that needs oxyclean in the worst way.  Then, of course, plenty of rinsing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T01:42:19.767" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-26T01:42:19.767" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2015" CreationDate="2011-08-26T01:50:08.663" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too bad this one is already answered because this answer is &quot;the ticket&quot;.  But hopefully it will be upvoted when you see the picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6RkZP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Use one of your wrenches!&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lay the keg on it's side and hook a wrench on one of the tabs.  When you rotate the wrench, it pushes on the ball and the CO2 escapes.  Easy, no fuss, no muss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe you'll down vote it for such crappy art work :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T01:50:08.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2431" CreationDate="2011-08-26T02:03:18.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider the &quot;Tap-A-Draft&quot; system, which includes 6 liter PET bottles.  These are the same thing that &quot;Miller Light Home Draft&quot; and &quot;Coors Light Home Draft&quot; uses.  They are so similar as to be identical in most ways.  The TAD is made for re-use, whereas the MHD say 'do not recycle or reuse', but that's just the lawyers talking, I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keg/bottle into these exclusively.  A five gallon batch fits in three bottles.  I'll take one of the three and force carbonate it, then take the other two and bottle condition.  Works great, and I don't need to plug another compressor into the grid (the chief of the house lets me put one, sometimes two bottles in the regular refrigerator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question of how to pressurize the keg is addressed simply by having a CO2 cartridge holder right on the tap.  The tap includes a rudimentary regulator that's not (designed to be) adjustable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the cleaning, I put a warm oxyclean solution in the bottle, with the tap on, and tap open, but stopped-up.  I let that sit for a few hours, then triple rinse and then hit it with starsan.  No brushing. I think that the smooth walls of the PET bottle are superior to the small creases of steel canisters with respect to keeping things clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T02:03:18.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3104" CreationDate="2011-08-26T02:27:47.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advantages of chilling your wort is to be able to pitch your yeast more quickly, thus shortening your brew day.  Also, your wort is susceptible to bacterial infection if there is no competing yeast.  There are many people, especially those down under, that have no problem letting wort cool in it's own sweet time, but it seems that most brewers here are interested in chilling quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two kinds of chiller:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Immersion Chiller - A coil, typically made of copper, where cooling water flows.  This picks up heat from the wort and carries it away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat Exchanger Chiller (reverse flow chiller) - Can be a plate chiller or a tube inside a tube.  The cooling water flows in the opposite direction as the wort, so the coldest chilling water exchanges heat with the coldest wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Immersion chillers are the simplest type of chiller.  These will be much more effective if they are agitated during chilling (this prevents a layer of cool wort from staying next to the coil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat exchangers can be used in a single pass, where the wort goes through once, and into the fermentation vessel, or can be used in a recirculating mode (needs a food-grade pump) where the wort is returned to the boil kettle.  In the single pass configuration, the cold break ends-up in the fermentation vessel, but has the advantage of not requiring a lot of attention (no agitation), and no pump (if your burner is up high enough for gravity to allow the kettle to drain into the fermentation vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T02:27:47.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4949" CreationDate="2011-08-26T19:53:39.530" Score="7" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to try a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kriek&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kreik&lt;/a&gt; beer.  This is a step beyond a Lamic, and I am having trouble locating actual sour Morello cherries.  Will any variety of a sour cherry get roughly equivalent results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1272" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T02:20:59.087" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T02:20:59.087" Title="Belgian Fruit Beer Expectations" Tags="|beer|lambics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4927" CreationDate="2011-08-26T19:56:42.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How fancy do you want to get?  I have a friend that has a low power compressor that he has &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0055RSPKK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hooked up to a faucet bottle washer&lt;/a&gt;, next to the actual bottle washer.  This way, he gets the washing done on one nozzle, and then he's able to force liquid out with the other one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:  Fast and easy once set up and will speed up the entire process&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:  Expensive and difficult to set up initially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I myself have never gone to that extreme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1272" LastEditorUserId="1272" LastEditDate="2011-08-26T21:51:20.067" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T21:51:20.067" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-26T19:56:42.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4924" CreationDate="2011-08-26T20:28:55.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right - you need minerals! Different minerals in the brewing water perform a number of roles througout the brewing process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;mashing:&lt;/strong&gt; during the mash, minerals are used to adjust the pH - around 5.2 is considered a comprimise between the pH ranges favored by alpha and beta amylase.  Chalk (Calcium Carbonate) and Baking soda (Calcium Hydrogen Carbonate/Calcium bicarbonate) increase pH, while Gypsum (Calcium Sulphate), Calcium Chloride and Epsom Salts (Magnesium Sulphate) reduce pH. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;yeast nutrients:&lt;/strong&gt; various metals, such as calcium, zinc, manganese, phosphorus, copper and iron are used by the yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;flavour:&lt;/strong&gt; Sulphates accentuate hop bitterness, while Chlorides accentuate the maltiness, while too much of both gives a harsh bitterness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;stability:&lt;/strong&gt; calcium adds stability to the beer, helping produce clearer beers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The references give the information in much more detail, including recommended amounts in parts per million (ppm.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When brewing from extract or steeping grains, there is no mash, so of course mash pH is not a concern. The primary concern then is ensuring required minerals are available to the yeast. Wyeast make a nutrient blend that contains all of these minterals, so you could put that in the last 5 mins of the boil to make up for any deficiencies in the RO water. (In this case, avoid ammonium phopsphate, since that contributes few of the minerals required.) The extract brewer whose got all the variables nailed down and looking for more refinement can look to secondary concerns such as adding chlorides and sulphates to adjust the balance between maltiness and hoppiness. This also adds calcium - good for the yeast and good for colloidal stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The partial mash/all grain brewer also needs to feed the yeast and strike a flavour balance, so he will use all of the above, but will also add minerals to control mash pH. When controlling the mash and flavour, each salt performs multiple functions. For eample, Calcium Chloride reduces mash pH and accentuates the malt, so it's quite an art to finding the correct proportion of all the salts to give the desired effect. Brewing softwawre makes this process much simpler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quantities of salts added to a 5 or 10 gallon brew are measured in grams. A digital jewellers scale that measures 0-100g with a precision of 0.01g typically costs less than $10 and is perfect for weighing these small amounts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get started, you might pick up some yeast nutrient and these salts from your LHBS:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calcium Sulfate (Gypsum)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calcium Carbonate (Chalk)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom Salts)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calcium Chloride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from your kitchen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sodium Chloride (Table salt)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calcium Bicarbonate (Baking soda)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rpi.edu/dept/chem-eng/Biotech-Environ/beer/water2.htm&quot;&gt;Beer Brewing: the art and science - Water&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Mash_pH#pH_meter&quot;&gt;Understanding Mash pH&lt;/a&gt; - homebrewtalk Wiki&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftbrewing.org.uk/technical/hazes.shtml&quot;&gt;Combatting Hazes and Improving Colloidal Stability&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-08-28T21:33:17.667" LastActivityDate="2011-08-28T21:33:17.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4924" CreationDate="2011-08-26T21:06:39.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you intend to build your water from scratch, I recommend you take a look at Martin Brungard's excellent (and free!) water spreadsheet at &lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&lt;/a&gt; .  Not only will it help you to figure out what minerals you need for each beer style, there's a great water tutorial section in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T21:06:39.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4945" CreationDate="2011-08-26T21:07:40.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, any variety of sour cherry will give you equivalent results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T21:07:40.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4473" CreationDate="2011-08-26T23:04:01.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add a few ounces of Mikes Hard Lemonade to any summer (wheat) beer.  Makes a great summer drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1668" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T23:04:01.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4435" CreationDate="2011-08-27T01:26:45.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you can't stand the taste of a bock and an ale.  So, it's not the yeast that you don't like, but that's about all one can say base on the information you've provided.  Shiner bock gets clobbered on beer advocate.  Fireman's comes through ok, though.  It's probably just that beer has been mistreated.  Like you say, a Texas summer issue.  The suggestion would be to find a beer seller that's got the freshest stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T01:26:45.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4966" CreationDate="2011-08-27T13:35:50.087" Score="5" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;When brewing a double IPA do I have to put the hops in steeping bag or do I just toss toss them in. This question applies to both the boiling phase and when I have to dry hop later!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2011-08-28T13:50:51.570" Title="Addition of hops to double IPA" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4952" CreationDate="2011-08-27T14:30:27.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will depend on what kind of hops you're using and personal preference.  Let's start with the boil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, hops in a bag are going to give you less flavor/bitterness than the same quantity floating freely in the kettle.  You can weight the bag, to mitigate this somewhat. (with, say, a stainless steel ball).  I don't have numbers for this; I can only tell you &quot;less.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using pellet hops, I will typically just throw them in and let them dissolve.  They'll eventually end up on the bottom of the fermentor.  Some folks like to avoid as much of this material as possible, so they use bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using whole leaf hops, I highly recommend using a bag in the boil.  When I first used whole hops, I just tossed them into the kettle. This led to a variety of problems, including a plugged sight glass and plugged dip tube (which I cleared with a sanitized latex glove).  They also soak up a surprising amount of wort.  If I were to use them again, I would bag them and use a sanitized latex glove to squeeze some of the wort out of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for dry hops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to bag all dry hops, to aid in removal.  Some people like to see whole hops floating at the top of the carboy.  Again, you'll get less aroma when using a bag, so you may want to weight the bag or compensate by using extra hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't address plug hops, both because I have no personal experience, and they tend to be less popular than other forms.  I would expect them to behave similar to whole hops, but perhaps others can correct this assumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T14:30:27.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-27T17:19:58.130" Score="3" ViewCount="2223" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last weekend I brewed my first batch of beer.  I ordered the kit back in April because there was a Groupon and stuck the yeast in the fridge until I needed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its been a week and I haven't seen any bubbling in the air lock, so I was thinking the yeast didn't make it.  However there is a lot of pressure in the fermenter because when I touch the lid I can feel that there is gas in there, and today I saw that the top was not fully locked in anymore.  So now I think that the air lock is just not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to YouTube and saw a video for the airlock that I have.  It turns out I didn't put on all of the pieces.  I have a 3 piece airlock (http://www.midwestsupplies.com/airlock-3-piece-type.html) but didn't put the circular lid part on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a big problem or by putting the top on now everything will be ok?  I figured the water was there to prevent the wild yeasts and bacteria from getting in there.  Is that a safe assumption?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this why I don't see bubbling or is it more likely that the yeast didn't last that long, even though it was in the fridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1401" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:43:38.217" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:43:38.217" Title="Forgot 1 piece to a 3 piece airlock, is this recoverable?" Tags="|troubleshooting|airlock|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4954" CreationDate="2011-08-27T17:55:10.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about this too much. What you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; want is lots of oxygen coming into contact with your wort which can lead to the oxidation and spoiling of your batch. However, this doesn't sound like it was a problem in your case. The main problem with a blocked airlock is that it can be dangerous due to a build-up of carbon dioxide which can (in extreme cases) make things like glass fermenters and bottles explode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you look and see any evidence of fermentation in the first few days of the brew (I am assuming that there was because you mention a pressure build up)? You can also measure the specific gravity with a hydrometer to see if fermentation has taken place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T17:55:10.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4958" CreationDate="2011-08-27T19:54:38.823" Score="3" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of brewing with Ale yeasts, I understand that fermenter temps can increase up to 10 degrees, or more, than the ambient room temperature. As a &quot;cheap&quot; method for keeping the temperature of the fermenter as close as possible to the ambient temperature of the room, can I simply set the fermenter on a cooling duct? It would seem logical that the large surface area on the bottom of the fermenter would allow sufficient heat transfer to exchange at least &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of the excess heat away from the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this before or can categorically state that this method is useless or shouldn't be attempted due to negative effects? While, perhaps, questionable in it's overall effectiveness, I can't think of anything that could potentially be detrimental to the yeast or fermentables using this method (assuming, of course, that the temperature is still within acceptable range for the yeast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T02:21:16.293" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T02:21:16.293" Title="Controlling exothermic heat from primary fermentation with A/C cooling duct" Tags="|beer|yeast|fermentation|techniques|primary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4954" CreationDate="2011-08-27T21:52:10.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need the cover on the three piece airlock for it to work right.  If you weren't seeing bubbling I challenge that the lid wasn't on the bucket tight enough and the gas was escaping else where.  Or the majority of fermentation happened when you weren't paying attention.  If you ferment to warm that scenario is totally conceivable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect your beer is fine. (aside from a hot ferment)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T21:52:10.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4956" CreationDate="2011-08-27T21:54:47.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is fine.  A better idea, which I know some people do is to put the fermentor on the floor near the duct then cover both the duct and the fermentor with a large cardboard box.  That way you don't have to cool the whole house to 60F.  The box will get pretty cool itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T21:54:47.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4945" CreationDate="2011-08-27T22:33:56.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oregon fruit company cans unsweetened sour cherries that I've used to make a flavored cider before. Check the wine section of your local homebrew supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T22:33:56.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4924" CreationDate="2011-08-27T22:48:58.013" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a chemist, I've tested various filtering systems and when it the dust settles, so to speak, filters such as the Pur or Brita work as efficiently as expensive RO or Ion exchange systems. I leave the &quot;minerals&quot; to those that are added that are inherent to the brewing process and avoid adding other salts unless instructed. BTW - epsom salt sold here in the US in stores is NOT for internal consumption and should not be added to food and beverages. Magnesium can be added in the chloride form. Adding sulphates is not recommended as the same allergies are triggered as in the case of sulfites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T22:48:58.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5035" CreationDate="2011-08-27T23:37:05.943" Score="3" ViewCount="1626" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the few years I've been brewing AG, I've used batch sparging with a 70qt cooler. But this year I've built a new brewery which is equipped for fly sparging, so I'm trying that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With fly sparging, I understand sparing should be stopped when the SG below 1.010 (or the pH above 5.8). But With the lauter tun full of 1.010 wort at the end of sparging, doesn't that hurt efficiency compared to other forms of sparging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2011-08-27T23:57:20.777" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T17:20:14.153" Title="fly sparging - stopping and efficiency" Tags="|sparge|efficiency|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4954" CreationDate="2011-08-27T23:56:05.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a week you should see a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krausen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;krausen&lt;/a&gt;, off-white foam on top of the liquid, or the remains of one - dark brown bits stuck to the side of the fermentor above the level of the beer. If you see that, then the yeast are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cover on the airlock is not essential - the airlock still provides a water-barrier without it. The cover may help slow down evaporation of the liquid in the airlock, (and in my case, keep out a 2 year old's inquisitive fingers) but otheriwse, leaving it off makes little difference - fermentation will happen fine without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some brews I don't get any airlock activity, so I look for a krausen as a sign of fermentation. If I don't see one in 3 days, then I consider pitching new yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T23:56:05.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4965" CreationDate="2011-08-28T09:22:56.930" Score="8" ViewCount="3066" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi there fellow brewmasters! I have recently moved to all-grain brewing after two years of brewing with hopped extracts. The results are pretty good, and the whole process is a lot of fun, but I am trying to find some good variation to the recipes I have tried so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While jogging, I have found out that hops are &lt;em&gt;endemic&lt;/em&gt; in &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.it/maps?q=Friuli,%20Italy&amp;amp;hl=it&amp;amp;sll=46.225918,13.103365&amp;amp;sspn=2.097773,5.817261&amp;amp;vpsrc=0&amp;amp;z=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my area&lt;/a&gt;. Obviously, they are totally wild and there's no hope of knowing their exact AA percentage, however I am planning to estimate it through the &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/forum/read/1258102&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tea method&lt;/a&gt;. I am planning to harvest a good lot of these hops and dry or freeze them, so that if they are good I can grow them or brew some batches before they run out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now,&lt;/strong&gt; the problem is that I don't know the right time for harvesting, thus I am asking for your advice. The hops are now &lt;em&gt;walnut-sized&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;bright green&lt;/em&gt;, but they are &lt;em&gt;not particularly aromatic&lt;/em&gt; (I will update a picture this afternoon if I have time to go for a walk). Last year I found a plant with very aromatic hops, so I would wait some more to let them develop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you,&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Tunnuz&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1398" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T02:24:22.497" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T02:24:22.497" Title="When to harvest wild hops?" Tags="|beer|hops|all-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-28T10:24:43.213" Score="2" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;A homebrew shop has just opened up near me (hooray!). Browsing their wares I saw two hops varieties unknown  to me: Sticklebract (I think this is the correct name) and Galena. They seem to have been grown in Italy which surprised me. Has anyone used these hops in a brew and what are their characteristics? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-08-28T14:47:07.003" Title="What are the hops varieties Sticklebract &amp; Galena?" Tags="|hops|ingredients|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4963" CreationDate="2011-08-28T13:02:44.423" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the paper-like feel, you can monitor the armoa by crushing a cone and smelling it.  You obviously want to harvest when the aroma is the strongest.  Also, look for plump lupulin glands (you need to magnify to see them).  You may also use browning of the lower bracts as an outward sign of ripeness.  If you get in the habit of squeezing the cones as they develop, you will notice a change as they become more light and resilient instead of hard and green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of examples of images to be found on the Internet, here's just one that includes a microscopic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plantcell.org/content/20/1/186/F1.expansion.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;image of lupulin glands&quot;&gt;image of lupulin glands&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2011-09-05T12:43:45.223" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T12:43:45.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4952" CreationDate="2011-08-28T13:50:51.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For both boil and fermenter additions, using a steeping bag:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduces chances of clogging during transfers (+)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gives lower hop utilization (-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Provides for easier removal of the hops when they've done their job (+)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeps hops out of the next phase (the fermenter / your glass) (+)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May allow for more wort/beer to be transferred (+)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More trouble/expense at the point of the hop addition (-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want your transfers to be smooth, you need a plan for managing hop solids.  Many brewers have plans that manage hop residues without putting hops in a bag.  But unless you have such a plan, item 1 alone, should be enough to get you to use a bag.  Number 2 can be easily compensated for.  As for 3 &amp;amp; 4, you probably don't want bittering hops in your fermenter or chunks in your glass.  If you've pulled the hops out (especially pellets), you might be inclined to transfer a little more volume (5), and not leave so much wort/beer behind.  But you do need to buy nylon or many muslin bags (6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-08-28T13:50:51.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4964" CreationDate="2011-08-28T14:47:07.003" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Galena&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Galena&lt;/a&gt; is an US bittering hop, 11-14% AA described as &quot;citrusy. fruity/black-currant similar to Bullion&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Sticklebract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sticklebract&lt;/a&gt; is a New Zealand dual-purpose hop, 10.5-14.5% AA, described as &quot;high selinine content and a piney, citrusy aroma&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-08-28T14:47:07.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2011-08-28T21:58:48.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a design very similar to figure 1. Where you use an jar I use a 2l plastic fizzy drinks bottle. I stabbed several holes in the top with a sharp knife. I then fed several tubes which have been inserted into corks and sealed up 1 gallon demi-johns into the holes i stabbed into the drinks bottle. The only limit to how many demi johns that can be attached to the air lock is the amount of tubes you can pass into the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1672" LastActivityDate="2011-08-28T21:58:48.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-29T10:45:02.937" Score="2" ViewCount="24289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I extracted the juice and moved it to a container for two days(as per instructions)mixed the yeast with the sugar water and left for two days,then mixed together,but there was no fermentation,why would that be?Thankyou.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1673" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T21:22:20.673" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T08:24:40.353" Title="Non fermenting cider" Tags="|fermentation|cider|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4971" CreationDate="2011-08-29T12:39:29.880" Score="2" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fellow brewmasters! I have a curious question for you. A friend of mine tried to convince me that the beer &lt;em&gt;high&lt;/em&gt; is not entirely caused by alcohol. In particular, his theory is that since hops and cannabis share the same &lt;a href=&quot;http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cannabaceae&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;family&lt;/a&gt;, they contain a small amount of cannabinols. Does this sound familiar to you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humulus_lupulus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Humulus lupulus&lt;/a&gt; page on Wikipedia doesn't mention this fact, so I am trying to find out if this is true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you,&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Tunnuz&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1398" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T02:12:57.930" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T02:12:57.930" Title="Does beer contain cannabinols?" Tags="|beer|hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4970" CreationDate="2011-08-29T13:06:50.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While they do contain some of the same aroma chemicals (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Myrcene&quot;&gt;Myrcene&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humulene&quot;&gt;Humulene&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;em&gt;etc.&lt;/em&gt;), I believe* that they diverged long enough ago to be completely different plants with completely different chemical profiles.   Hops pretty obviously doesn't contain anything that breaks down to what drug tests check for, just based on the lack of people losing jobs and &quot;breaking&quot; parole for drinking some beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your friend may be thinking of the effects of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2-Methyl-2-butanol&quot;&gt;2-Methyl-2-butanol&lt;/a&gt;, which is what gives Hops their sedative properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I am not a biologitician.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T13:06:50.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2011-08-29T13:17:16.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you make a hop spider, I had this problem when making beers with lots of hops until I stumbled into a discussion on homebrewtalk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?aq=f&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;q=hop+spider&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.google.com/search?aq=f&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;q=hop+spider&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After building on I never had this problem again, it was cheap (less than $15)..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1674" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T13:17:16.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4969" CreationDate="2011-08-29T14:13:28.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me ask you: I installed the spark plug into my SUV - and tried to ignite, but it's not working. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rhetorical question. What I am trying to say is that it is very hard to answer this question without more information. That said, a few possible explanations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nothing is wrong&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is no bubbling via the airlock, so you assume there is no fermentation. However, the lid on your fermentation bucket is not air tight. Did you measure OG? Then measure SG again, if it is lower, then it is indeed slowly fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two days is not that much time - my last brew (of apple wine actually) started showing pressure after two and a half days. Perhaps the yeast you pitched was not fit for fight and needed some extra time to grow?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Higher SG causes slower fermentation, the high sugar concentrations acts as a inhibitor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Low temperature can cause slow fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is not fermenting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You are trying to ferment at a very low temperature, which has caused the yeast to go dormant. Or, you started fermenting at high temperatures, then quickly lowered the temperature, which shocked the yeast into dormancy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You somehow mixed the yeast with too hot water and killed it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard to say without more information. Did the starter culture show any signs of living?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T14:13:28.337" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4981" CreationDate="2011-08-29T14:22:10.660" Score="6" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making beer or other carbonated beverages, we are encouraged to consider residual CO2 when calculating priming sugar. Does this also mean that non-carbonated beverages should be &quot;encouraged&quot; to emit any residual CO2, or is the CO2 emitted during extended rest in the carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary method of encouragement I'm thinking of would be vigorous high-frequency kinetic movement of the fermentor (aka shaking),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T15:38:26.823" Title="Should a wine be encouraged to emit residual CO2 before bottlings?" Tags="|carbonation|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4969" CreationDate="2011-08-29T14:23:10.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many reasons you could have a stuck fermentation. With more information about the process you used, it would be easier to tell what might have happened. However I'll throw out a few common problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad yeast - Where did you purchase the yeast and how long ago? How was it stored? It may have been dead before you tried to pitch it. It also sounds like you tried to make a starter before pitching into the juice. Did you see any bubbling or frothing in the starter? If not the yeast were probably not viable due to age or improper storage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature problems - If the water in your starter was too hot the yeast may have died. If the water in the juice was too cold they may have flocculated out too quickly. You want to ferment around 65-75°F depending on the recipe. Too far off from this and you will have problems with the fermentation. Fast changes in temperature can also shock the yeast, causing a stuck fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad fermentation conditions - If the gravity in juice is too high the osmotic pressure can prevent the yeast from taking in nutrients, shocking them into dormancy or killing them. If the juice was poorly oxygenated the yeast can have trouble reproducing, causing slower or stuck fermentations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examine your process with this in mind and you will probably be able to find the issue so you can fix it in future batches!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T14:23:10.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4979" CreationDate="2011-08-29T15:09:01.537" Score="6" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, when I fermented a cider it ended up very dry. I used champagne yeast and only added pure glucose. I then added lactic sugar since I knew that wasn't fermentable by the yeast I used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have understood (though I might be mistaken) that we can produce a higher final gravity by using malt with more complex sugars. Again, this is common sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am confused however, by measurements of a yeasts &quot;attentuation&quot;. It seems illogical to me that I would end up with FG 8 if I have a solution of water, nutrients, correct pH and 40 SG of pure glucose and pitch a yeast that has 80% attentuation since glucose is completely fermentable, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am asking is this: Does attentuation depend as much on the type of sugars as the type of yeast, or maybe actually more on the sugars used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T02:23:19.927" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T12:03:41.423" Title="What does high attentuation actually mean in terms of types of sugar fermented?" Tags="|yeast|cider|sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4970" CreationDate="2011-08-29T15:20:14.760" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once had a glass of 300 IBU IPA a friend made. (The beer looked green coming through the tap lines, and he lost 2 gallons of wort to the hop sludge before fermentation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my face returned to normal upon consuming about 6oz of this beer, I in fact, did &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; have a craving for Cheetos or Funions. Also, I did &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; start excessively using the word &quot;Dude!&quot; or demand that everyone hold hands for world peace. I observed a few people who drank several glasses of this hop juice, and &lt;strong&gt;NONE&lt;/strong&gt; of them exhibited the above behavior as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this incredibly scientific experiment, I am going to have to reject your friends hypothesis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as a skeptic, let me just say that barring my own experiences consuming lots of hoppy beer, that the theory is &quot;too good to be true&quot; anyway. Hops at the retail level are around $1-3 per ounce. If there was ANY high to be had from consuming them, then the home brew shops in this county would have lines of Dead Heads out their doors every day. Your friend needs to use some critical thinking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T15:20:14.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4970" CreationDate="2011-08-29T16:01:17.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;In the same family&quot; is a LONG way from &quot;have the same effect&quot;.  Your friend must have been smoking something other than hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T16:01:17.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4976" CreationDate="2011-08-29T16:03:32.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The attenuation rating of yeast is simply a way of comparing one yeast to another given a standard wort or must.  It does not necessarily reflect the attenuation you can expect from the yeast.  That is far more dependent on the sugar composition of whatever the yeast is fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T17:15:26.343" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T17:15:26.343" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4974" CreationDate="2011-08-29T16:04:50.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct.  You commonly use a degasser (like the Mixstir) to outgas the CO2 that is dissolved in the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hTuRT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixstir wine degasser (can also be used for wort aeration)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T17:14:38.763" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T17:14:38.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4974" CreationDate="2011-08-29T18:15:51.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, wine should be de-gassed before bottling.  Dry red wines, in particular, should be completely still to ensure they taste right.  Dry white wines can be bottled with a little residual CO2; this helps to brighten them up, and fits with the crisp acidity expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that the CO2 will off-gas naturally with time in bulk storage.  The bad news is that it requires quite a lot of time - a year or more.  For dry red wines made from grapes, this is OK because you should be bulk aging the wine this long anyways.  For white wine made from grapes or fresh juice, you probably want to bottle it after 9 months or so, and you may find that it's still too gassy at this point.  For wine made from kits, you likely want to bottle it after just a couple of months, which means you will have to de-gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how to de-gas, the stirring wand that Denny posted is a good option, but using it risks oxidation of the wine if you stir to fast.  If you create a whirlpool in the wine, you are oxidizing it.  A better method of manual de-gassing, I feel, is to use a brake bleeder vacuum pump - something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00265M9SS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mityvac&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5tj6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mityvac&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I forgot to mention: you just connect the vacuum pump up to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/3-5-6-gall-carboy-cap-orange.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;carboy cap&lt;/a&gt; and pump away.  When the carboy holds about 20&quot; of pressure on the meter for 10 minutes, you know the wine is degassed.  Do not pump much higher than about 22&quot; to avoid the risk of imploding the carboy.  Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcFFUvqjMb0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video of wine being degassed with a mityvac&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit2: CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; comes out of solution easier at higher temperatures.  When you are going to degas, allow your wine to come up to about 70-75F.  Don't go higher, because the temperature will start to affect the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="430" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T15:38:26.823" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T15:38:26.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4976" CreationDate="2011-08-29T19:29:06.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you've seen, even though the wort comprises 100% fermentable sugars, ale yeast does not in fact ferment all of it. As the yeast ferment the sugar, the environment becomes more and more harsh, preventing the yeast from consuming the remaining fermentables. Also, ale yeast can only ferment 1/3 of the maltriose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you perform a forced ferment - lots of yeast, kept warm and regularly roused - attenuation is higher, and for lager yeasts, can be complete, if the wort is fully fermentable. There's a great article on homebrewtalk wiki about this - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Attenuation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Understanding Attenuation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-28T12:03:41.423" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T12:03:41.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4986" CreationDate="2011-08-30T01:33:08.017" Score="4" ViewCount="667" Body="&lt;p&gt;So if I do a secondary fermentation for a double IPA and transfer it to a carboy(better bottle)  should I use a steeping bag?, or is it better to keep it in the primary fermenter and add the dry hops there and not use secondary fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T19:50:38.030" Title="Dry hopping a double IPA" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4976" CreationDate="2011-08-30T04:47:46.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability of a yeast to process sugars is dependent on the strain. Each strain has a slightly different distribution of the enzymes needed to break down the sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide. Enzymes are very structure specific and there are different enzymes that break down specific sugars in differing amounts in each strain of yeast. Attenuation is different among different strains and is specific to the type of sugar. Another factor is the tolerance of the yeast to the alcohol. Some are more tolerant than others. That is why a strain like cote des blanc or champagne yeast are used to produce high alcohol brews and other strains produce lower percent alcohol. The way to control the ending percent alcohol is by either controlling the OG or choosing a strain of yeast that &quot;shuts down&quot; at a specific alcohol percentage range. Cider yeasts tend to stop processing sugar faster and yield lower ending alcohol percentages. This leaves sugar in the cider what cuts the &quot;dryness&quot; on the tongue. So, to answer your question, yes ... it depends on the sugar and the strain of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T04:47:46.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4969" CreationDate="2011-08-30T05:18:52.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed a lot of cider and never have read instructions like what you describe. Letting yeast sit in sugar water for two days probably caused them to go dormant. Normally, you pitch (add) the yeast within a couple of minutes (no more than an hour) after mixing with some sugar water to activate it (assuming that you were using dry yeast). Did you see bubbles in the container with yeast and sugar water? If not, then probably  a bad package of yeast. If you are using dry yeast, there should be a use by date on it. Try activating another package of the yeast in water than is around 105 F (slightly warm to touch) with about a tablespoon of sugar in it. Let this sit until you see foam forming at the top of the container. Hopefully, you pasteurized the juice/cider before adding the yeast, if not, do so by heating it to 160 F for about 20 minutes, let it cool to room temperature, then pitch the new yeast. Cover the container with cheesecloth or seal it with an airlock. It takes about 6 to 10 days to ferment 5 gal of juice/cider at 68-70 F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T05:18:52.163" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4983" CreationDate="2011-08-30T12:03:02.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use a secondary fermentor when I dry-hop something.   The idea for that is to get the beer off of the bulk of the yeast cake, so no autolysis flavors are produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also don't use a steeping bag.   I could tell you about how the bag gets in the way of proper contact with the beer or whatnot, but I don't really know anything about that.   The reason I do it is that it took me over half an hour to get a bag full of wet hops out of my carboy the first time I dry hopped something.   I decided that I could live with a few bits of hop material in my beer after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T12:03:02.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2431" CreationDate="2011-08-30T14:08:47.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe those specific mini-kegs are refillable; however very similar kegs are offered for homebrew use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple different styles offered; some force-carbonated using CO2 cartridges, others are keg-primed with sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a couple examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/party-star-deluxe-tap-system.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Party Star Deluxe Tap System&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CO2 primed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cellar-homebrew.com/store/catalog/5-liter-Mini-Keg-p-627.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;5 liter mini-keg&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sugar-primed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are very similar in design and function to the beer tender kegs, but are likely incompatible with that machine.  However I've seen some micro-brews offered in exactly these kegs (with graphics painted on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T14:31:49.580" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T14:31:49.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4983" CreationDate="2011-08-30T14:44:53.393" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with baka on the headache of removing a bag of hops from a bottle. Instead I just tie the hop bag around the end of my autosiphon when siphoning into the bottling bucket. This effectively block any hops from ending up in your bottled beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T14:44:53.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4991" CreationDate="2011-08-30T16:53:01.400" Score="8" ViewCount="2656" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week I started a cherry mead and discovered yesterday that it had turned to vinegar (and not even nice-tasting cherry-flavoured vinegar - it smelled and tasted awful, though the colour was great). I'm not sure how this happened, so I'm posting what I did in the hopes that someone can diagnose the problem before I try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil 4 litres (I make mead in a 5L jar on my kitchen counter - my apartment is not big enough for rows of carboys!) of water for 25 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce heat to below boiling and add 1 kg (about 1L) of honey (plain, Billy Bee honey).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove scum from surface until no more scum forms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add 500 ml of washed, diced, pitted black cherries (tied up in a cheesecloth) to the water and honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add 750 ml of black cherry juice (bought at a nearby health-food store), because I didn't have very many cherries left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simmer for about 20 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool, add to fermentation jar, pitch yeast (Lalvin champagne yeast).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An observation: this batch fermented far faster and far more vigorously and violently than any other batch! Almost all of the sugar was consumed by fermentation within 4 days. In all my other batches, it typically took 8 to 12 days for this much sugar to be consumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used this variants of this process (minus the fruit), steps 1 - 3 and 7 for almost a dozen batches (all successful so far) over the past two years, so I'm thinking the problem was in the fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was actually my second fruit mead - the first one was with strawberries, and they were thrown in at the &lt;em&gt;beginning&lt;/em&gt; of the process (Step 1, when boiling the water), I thought it would be important to sterilize them. I later read that fruit should &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be boiled, or pectin would form and result in a very cloudy mead (and yes, the strawberry mead was tasty but also cloudy), and also possibly affect the flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I've been wondering about where the failure was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cherries - Should they have been boiled, or sterilized in some other way? I have also read recipes that involve putting the cherries in &lt;em&gt;during&lt;/em&gt; fermentation but to me that seems to carry an even greater risk of infection from outside sources. &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would I have better luck with frozen cherries (or other fruit), assuming that the frozen fruit is somehow sterilized before it's frozen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cherry juice - It was supposed to have been pasteurized, but I admit I opened it a little before I made the mead, just to taste it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad luck??&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something else in this process that I missed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was also suggested to me by a friend that cinnamon has antibacterial properties so I should put 1 or 2 sticks in when boiling the water (they also said the juice of one lime would work as well, but I'm not sure about that and I worry it would have a strong impact on the flavour).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T16:34:31.187" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T19:08:05.160" Title="Cherry vinegar (was supposed to be mead)" Tags="|fermentation|mead|contamination|vinegar|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4989" CreationDate="2011-08-30T17:21:32.323" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you cover the 5L mason jar?  Does it have any sort of airlock, and is there a means of preventing bacteria and/or fruit flies out of the jar?  I ask because fruit flies carry acetobacter (they're also known as vinegar flies), and acetobacter turns alcohol into vinegar in the presence of oxygen.  So if your mead was exposed to air and a fruit fly got in to it, it could well turn to vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're working with fruit - fresh, frozen, or otherwise unpasteurized - a good way to protect yourself is to add a bit of potassium metabisulfite to the fruit.  ~200ppm is the threshold of detection.  The effectiveness is determined by pH, but if you kept it under 100ppm you should cover all your bases - preserving, protecting against oxidation, and keeping it under the threshold of smell.  Simmering the fruit, as you did, would have killed any baddies that came from the fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T17:21:32.323" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4998" CreationDate="2011-08-30T21:22:21.270" Score="5" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting ready to dry hop and transfer a Double IPA to a secondary Better Bottle. If I want to take a hydrometer reading at this time is it better to use a thief or just put the hydrometer in the bucket. If I use the thief should I return the beer in the thief to the fermenter or discard it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2011-08-31T15:20:16.763" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T21:10:26.767" Title="Hydrometer reading" Tags="|beer|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="254" CreationDate="2011-08-30T21:25:33.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Brew works great.  It let's you track your brews, calculates abw/abv/calories, provides overall brew stats, brew timers, etc.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/my-brew/id338354012?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iTunes Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1679" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T21:25:33.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4992" CreationDate="2011-08-30T21:25:34.480" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never return beer to the fermentor.  Its not worth the risk of contaminating the whole batch.  That is your sample to read, check for color and clarity and more importantly taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think its sort of tough to read the hydrometer in the bucket, especially if you have to compete with floaties in the bucket too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd use some siphon tubing and pull a sample that way.  If you have a thief, then use that.  I have never had one, but I imagine its convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T21:25:34.480" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4995" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-30T21:34:50.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fermenter is an organism, such as yeast, that performs fermentation on supplied sugars such as wort, must, juices or sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T21:34:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T21:34:50.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4996" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-30T21:34:50.177" Score="0" Body="an organism that ferments" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T21:34:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T21:34:50.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1316" CreationDate="2011-08-31T19:55:36.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition, you should steep grains in about the same amount of water you'd use if you were mashing them in order to avoid too high a pH and the risk of tannin extraction.  Grains will naturally reduce the pH of the water, but if you use too much water there won't be enough grain to get the pH down into the proper range.  Stay in the 1.5-2 qt./lb. range to avoid that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T19:55:36.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4992" CreationDate="2011-08-31T21:10:26.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As brewchez says, don't return the sample wort to the fermentor - it's not worth the risk  - nor the hassle. But if you really feel you want to return it, warm it to 160F first to reduce the risk of infection and wild yeast. You'll drive of a little alcohol, and maybe some aroma, but in such a small sample, it won't make much difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only ever done this once, when I accidentally pulled too large a sample before I got a  wine thief. So, even though I mention it, I don't recommend it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a lot easier to just brew say 10% more to allow for the samples and other losses. For a 10 gallon batch, I brew 11 gallons rather than 10, to allow for the wort samples and losses to trub in the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T21:10:26.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5003" CreationDate="2011-09-01T14:49:15.910" Score="7" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happened upon a bunch of 4L glass wine jugs today while dumpster-diving for beer bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ow3ER.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;4L glass win jug&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jugs I found have screw-top lids, and I thought they could be useful as secondary fermenters. If I split up my 5 gal of beer into 5 of these jugs, I should be able to let it hang out in there for a few weeks before I bottle. These are clear glass bottles, but they would be stored in a dark crawl space, so I shouldn't have to worry about skunking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound like a reasonable plan? Is there some problem I might encounter by having the beer in multiple locations (e.g. oxidation)? Or could there be a problem with the screw-top lid? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T17:17:13.110" Title="Jugs for secondary?" Tags="|secondary|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5006" CreationDate="2011-09-01T15:26:17.550" Score="10" ViewCount="3872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to age a big Russian Imperial Stout for about a year.   I understand that during this time, the bitterness imparted by the hops will dissipate.  If I want to maintain a balance, I'll need to overshoot my bitterness somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much bitterness should I expect to lose in a year? 5%? 25%? half?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T14:38:06.580" Title="How much hop bitterness dissipates with time?" Tags="|beer|process|bitterness|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4999" CreationDate="2011-09-01T15:26:52.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't advise it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current thinking in homebrewing circles is that it's best not to transfer to a secondary unless there's a good reason to, like for example adding fruit and doing a further fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to use a secondary, I think you're much better off using a single one, rather than 5.  I think you'll pick up a lot more oxygen with the 5.  I'm thinking that you pick up the most oxygen during a transfer at the start, when the outlet end of the tube is not submerged.  So with tranfering into 5 jugs, you're going to get that happening 5 times instead of just one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carboys are cheap.  Just get more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T15:26:52.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4999" CreationDate="2011-09-01T15:37:55.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each container has its own headspace. Unless you're flushing that headspace with CO2, each container will be exposing part of the beer to oxygen. Overall, using more containers will mean more surface area of the beer will be exposed to oxygen, increasing oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you're increasing the amount of glass involved, increasing the chances that one bit of glass won't be clean and could infect your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use finings, so I can't speak to how that works. But I've found anytime I've had to split an ingredient over multiple containers that it's very difficult to do so evenly. Some of your jars will get more finings, others will get less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would recommend hanging on to these jars, they are useful for other brewing tasks. You can split a batch of wort into the jars and give each its own yeast. You can make a gallon of star san, cap it and store it for long periods of time. Etc. Etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T15:37:55.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4999" CreationDate="2011-09-01T16:01:48.380" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the jugs for propagating yeast instead.  By pitching super fresh and healthy yeast, you'll find that the need for finings goes away.  Hence the reduced usage of secondaries amongst many homebrewers these days.  Healthy yeast tends to flocculate out much better than so-so yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T16:01:48.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5000" CreationDate="2011-09-01T16:36:39.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize that this isn't really an answer, but I don't think there's any way to quantify it.  I've never seen a study done and I think it would vary from beer to beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T16:36:39.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4999" CreationDate="2011-09-01T17:17:13.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would also use my normal carboy unless you had a reason to split. I have several of these myself. I bought them when I did a split batch experiment (split one beer into 5 and dry hopped with different varieties). It worked out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with the others about oxidation though, be careful when transferring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like brewchez mentions, I'm using them now more for yeast propagation than wort fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T17:17:13.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5000" CreationDate="2011-09-01T18:43:51.783" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paraphrasing from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?pid=S0100-40422000000100019&amp;amp;script=sci_arttext&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fundamentals of Beer and Hop Chemistry&lt;/a&gt; (text below), 2/3 of the hop bitterness in wort has a half-life in excess of 5 years, and the remaining 1/3 as a half-life of 1 year. From that, I've made a table showing the amount remaining over time. The total column shows the percentage of bitterness compared to the total at the start:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;months  cis-    trans-  total&#xA;0   68.00%  32.00%  100.00%&#xA;3   65.68%  26.91%  92.59%&#xA;6   63.45%  22.63%  86.07%&#xA;9   61.29%  19.03%  80.31%&#xA;12  59.20%  16.00%  75.20%&#xA;15  57.18%  13.45%  70.64%&#xA;18  55.23%  11.31%  66.55%&#xA;21  53.35%  9.51%   62.87%&#xA;24  51.53%  8.00%   59.53%&#xA;30  48.08%  5.66%   53.74%&#xA;36  44.86%  4.00%   48.86%&#xA;48  39.06%  2.00%   41.06%&#xA;60  34.00%  1.00%   35.00%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you leave a beer for 1 year, it's IBUs will have decreased to 75% of its original value. For example, an 80 IBU beer will have 60 IBUs after 1 year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the relevant part of the text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ratio of the isohumulones depends on the reaction conditions. In&#xA;  the wort medium it is normally 68:32 in favour of the cis-compounds.&#xA;  However, the cis-compounds are much more stable (half-life &gt;&gt; 5 years)&#xA;  than the trans-isomers (half-life of ca. 1 year) during the course of&#xA;  time. This affects, obviously, the cis:trans ratio and has significant&#xA;  consequences with respect to taste and flavour stability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, other variables do come into play, so these figures can't be taken as exact, But then, as we all know, that's how it is with brewing. Our malt isn't exactly the color on the label (usually a range of values), and hops aren't the bitterness on the pack since they degrade from the get go. So, although not exact, these figures should offer a good estimate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2011-09-06T18:37:19.117" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T18:37:19.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5008" CreationDate="2011-09-01T20:50:49.510" Score="7" ViewCount="1365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a batch using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=144&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WY2565 Kolsch&lt;/a&gt; which mentions that is low-flocculating and that it &quot;remain in suspension post fermentation. It requires filtration or additional settling time to produce bright beers.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning to rack to secondary and add finings as mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4999/jugs-for-secondary&quot;&gt;another post&lt;/a&gt; (I did not mention the yeast I was using). In &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4999/jugs-for-secondary/5003#5003&quot;&gt;one response&lt;/a&gt;, it was brought up that using fresh and healthy yeast mitigates the need for these extra measures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I had purchased the yeast just the day prior to brewing, and LHBS had received it that same day. The wort was very well aerated, which I understand should help give me healthy yeast. With that information, is it going to be necessary to take measures to drop the yeast out? If so, how should I deal with it? Some sort of finings such as gelatin? Cold-crash? The Wyeast profile mentions filtration--I'm not too familiar with that process; is that something I should look into? Or is the additional settling time mentioned sufficient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T21:29:43.543" Title="Clarification for a low-flocculating yeast" Tags="|beer|techniques|clarity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5007" CreationDate="2011-09-01T21:11:29.797" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally filtration systems are a little complex and unnecessary for the average homebrewer, although there are plenty of sites that help you make your own systems if you so choose. Unless you already are kegging and thus have CO2 lying around to force the beer through filters, I would put that option aside for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet is a combination of cold-crashing and using gelatin as a fining. 1 tsp of gelatin dissolved in hot water then added to secondary will help flocculate out yeast, as will a couple days in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the yeast is low-flocculating, you can't just get the yeast to the bottom, you have to make sure it stays there as well. Any jarring or movement of the container will cause the finely settled yeast to stir up into your beer again. I would add the gelatin and put it in the fridge, then take it out after a couple of days and let it sit on a high table with the lid already open but still sitting on top. Let it sit there for an hour or two to let any yeast resettle after the move, then siphon off the beer into your bottling bucket or what have you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the question of yeast health, it's not just the age of the yeast but the pitching rates as well. Using a starter will dramatically improve pitching rates, giving you better results all around. John Palmer has a good section on starters &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T21:11:29.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5012" CreationDate="2011-09-01T22:42:56.970" Score="3" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to brew a dry stout, but I am trying to save myself some time, so I am using extract, and ran across some discussions on cold steeping specialty malts.   I'm fairly certain that a ~24h cold steep will extract what I want from the toasted and roasted malts, but I also want some flaked barley in this wort.   Will a cold steep extract the proteins and such that flaked barley brings to the party (for mouthfeel and head retention), or does it need the higher temperature steep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T02:23:58.253" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T02:23:58.253" Title="Will a cold steep extract the necessary elements from adjunct grains?" Tags="|beer|steeping|adjunct|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-01T22:57:49.960" Score="5" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3348/cold-crash-and-finings&quot;&gt;Cold Crash and Finings&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5007/clarification-for-a-low-flocculating-yeast&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, I'm anticipating some trouble with a low-flocculating yeast, and one of the suggestions was to use gelatin for fining in the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to bottle-condition these beers, and my understanding is that while for bottle conditioning one hopes for about 1,000,000 cells per mL, that finings such as gelatin and isinglass have the ability to bring me down to about 10,000 cells per mL.  One additional piece of information is that this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=144&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a low-flocculating Kolsch yeast&lt;/a&gt;, so I wonder if the effect will be as significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to worry about having an under-carbonated beer if I use gelatin on a low-flocculating yeast? Would I need to compensate with additional priming sugar, or some fresh yeast, or some other measures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T02:14:09.940" Title="Bottle-priming post secondary fining?" Tags="|beer|carbonation|priming|clarity|finings|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-09-09T12:46:13.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5007" CreationDate="2011-09-02T01:03:32.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make a brilliant Kolsch with a good healthy starter of yeast to begin with, and a good cold crash after fermentation is done.  The yeast is a low flocculator for sure, but the cold lagering phase takes care of the suspension for me.  No finings needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want to accelerate the process, finings could help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T01:03:32.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5009" CreationDate="2011-09-02T01:10:49.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope.  Flaked barley needs to be mashed.  You'll get nothing but starch from it in your beer. Not only do you need a higher temp, you need some base malt in there an you need to do a partial/mini mash at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T01:10:49.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5019" CreationDate="2011-09-02T13:55:55.707" Score="5" ViewCount="4957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a Belgian Dubbel for an upcoming session.  Many recipes make use of belgian candy sugar and there are some very nice syrups available now.  But I was wondering if there really was a difference in flavor and finish vs. using table sugar or corn sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the difference chemically and does it impact the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-09-02T14:38:56.573" LastActivityDate="2011-09-03T17:06:09.360" Title="Belgian candi sugar v. Table sugar" Tags="|beer|flavor|sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5013" CreationDate="2011-09-02T15:26:07.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.franklinbrew.org/wp/?page_id=391&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; page has a good rundown of Candi Sugar and how to make your own. Essentially it a mixture of fructose, glucose, and citric acid where as table sugar is sucrose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T15:26:07.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5017" CreationDate="2011-09-02T15:30:57.130" Score="5" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 6 weeks ago, I made a simple Berliner Weisse. When I put it into primary, I pitched both yeast and the lactobacillus. It's been sitting in the primary ever since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I took a taste sample because I'm wondering when I should bottle it. The sour character was pretty much non-existant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that sour character can take a while to develop. What I'm wondering is how I should wait for that to develop. Do I leave it in the fermenter for a few more months (will it carbonate at that point?)? If I bottle it now, will that develop in the bottle? If so, will that lead to bottle bombs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T02:23:44.887" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T02:23:44.887" Title="Berliner Weisse not souring" Tags="|beer|bottling|sour|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5013" CreationDate="2011-09-02T16:03:21.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Invert sugar or belgian candi sugar is fructose and glucose, both monosaccharides. Table sugar is sucrose, a disaccharide, composed of one fructose and one glucose molecule. Yeast can really easily consume monosaccharides like fructose and glucose, but they have to split apart sucrose first to digest it. This added step can introduce off flavors and stress the yeast out. Using sucrose instead of invert sugar could give you off flavors in your beer and could take longer to ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As awithrow mentioned, it is easy to make your own invert sugar by adding a little citric acid (I used lemon juice) to sucrose and heating it. The acid helps splits the sucrose molecules into their glucose and fructose components via hydrolysis. You can vary the color of the eventual sugar by how long you keep it at soft crack temperatures (275°F). I used this method while making a belgian quad and it came out awesome. However, the site I read recommended pouring it into aluminum foil to cool it, but when it cooled it stuck to the foil, so I would consider waxed paper like awithrow's site recommends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T16:03:21.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5015" CreationDate="2011-09-02T16:17:29.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lactobacillus can be slow to develop but worth the wait. I would recommend bottling it and putting it in the basement for the next 6 months or so. You really can't rush these things. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_lambicbrewing.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast's website&lt;/a&gt; on the subject recommends bottling after primary and waiting for a few months. It also has a ton of useful information on the subject. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lactobacillus does produce CO2 from metabolic activity but I think it is slow enough that bottle bombs would not be a huge concern, you can just check the bottles every few weeks and if they get on the higher side of carbonation you can throw them in the fridge. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T16:17:29.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5009" CreationDate="2011-09-02T22:19:55.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's the head retention qualities of the flaked barley you are after, you could add 200g/0.45lb of carapils per 19l/5 gal. It will add head retention, and hardly adds any color, and such a small amount will not affect mouthfeel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually brew my stouts with an Irish liquid yeast, but I've also used US-05 and then they come out really dry! If you use US-05, it's probably a good idea to double the carapils, to round out the beer a little. If you're used to drinking Stout on Nitrogen, but are bottling or serving on CO2, you'll loose the thicker mouthfeel that serving on N2 gives. You can add 300-400g/0.6-0.9# carapils can also help create a slicker mouthfeel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unmalted cereals always need mashing, since they contain no diastatic power, and can't convert the starches into simple sugars. If you steep, you'll extract some beta-glucans that give some of the mouthfeel, but you'll extract far more starch. In a light beer, it will be clearly visible. In a stout, well, it's not going to be all that visible - so you might try it. Oats are particularly good, and add a lot of smoothness even in small quantities (&amp;lt;5%). For the best beer, you should really mash, but if saving time is more important than getting the absolute best beer you can, then add a few percent of oats and the carapils and you should get a nice mouthfeel with a good head, and at the most a touch of cloudiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2011-09-02T22:37:24.470" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T22:37:24.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5013" CreationDate="2011-09-03T17:06:09.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no flavor difference between table sugar and Belgian candi sugar (rocks).  Few, if any, Belgian brewers use the rocks, but they do have bags of beet sugar around.  Candi syrup is another matter and the darker varieties, like the D-180 from candisyrup.com, do add an intense flavor you can't get any other way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-09-03T17:06:09.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2011-09-03T22:00:46.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As well as racking, so-called &quot;secondary&quot; or conditioning starts when you dump most of the yeast from your conical. I hope to get one some day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-09-03T22:00:46.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5022" CreationDate="2011-09-03T22:37:27.127" Score="6" ViewCount="5574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to home brewing and am enjoying brewing 1 gallon batches. I have been using dry yeast and can get about 4 batches from a single packet. I would, however, like to be able to use the wider variety available via liquid yeast but I don't want to waste a yeast packet designed for 5 gallons by throwing away what I don't need for 1 gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I seperate and store the liquid yeast I don't use for use in later batches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T00:57:37.553" Title="Liquid Yeast for 1 Gallon Batches" Tags="|yeast|small-batch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5021" CreationDate="2011-09-04T00:57:37.553" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use half a tube of liquid yeast per 1 gallon of 1.050OG beer.  You are probably thinking &quot;but I get more uses out of one pack of dry&quot;....well you were probably under pitching the amount of yeast for optimal performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this pitching rate calculator if you haven't done so before:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr. Malty Pitching Rate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are done you can just recap the vial and store it in the fridge.  Nice thing is that it seals closed better than a dried yeast pack closes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T00:57:37.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2011-09-04T23:04:06.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think one thing to keep in mind is the evolving state of the homebrewing art.  I get the feeling that the distinction between primary and secondary fermentation is an older concept, dating from the time when dried yeast was the norm, autolysis was a serious vector of off flavors, and a secondary transfer was practically always part of the fermentation schedule.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have noted, fermentation is really a continuous process with several overlapping phases, and not a rigid 2-step procedure that requires transfer to a secondary vessel.  Indeed it's beneficial for healthy yeast to be kept in contact with the wort well into their dormant phase, as this is the time that yeast will reabsorb metabolic byproducts that they previously dumped into the beer.  As far as I can tell the only good reason to remove the beer from the yeast partway through fermentation is autolysis, which shouldn't be a problem with well grown, healthy yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, racking to a secondary vessel is a good idea for procedures like dryhopping or spicing, or for high alcohol or dark beers that benefit from some mellowing unrelated to yeast fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule I follow is no more than 4 weeks on the yeast cake, and if the beer needs more finishing beyond that before I keg, then that's the only time my secondary vessel gets used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1417" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T23:04:06.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5026" CreationDate="2011-09-05T01:04:12.787" Score="4" ViewCount="2682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keg and force carbonate, and my beer has really fine bubbles. Is there something that I can do (turn up the pressure, maybe) that will give me larger, coarser bubbles in the finished beer? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1601" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-09-05T14:12:14.930" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T06:29:36.147" Title="How do I get larger bubbles in my finished beer?" Tags="|beer|carbonation|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5024" CreationDate="2011-09-05T14:11:56.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really, fine bubbles is usually what people are after.  Are you hoping larger bubbles will cure a different problem like head formation or retention?  This type of information might get you an answer more suited for what you need.  Bubble size is a tough thing to control and quantitate.  It involves the size of the nucleation sites and the amount of insolubles in the beer.  Its something the pros really struggle with too, and its something that brewing scientists still pore over in research settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short if you want bigger bubbles, you need cleaner beer and cleaner glassware.&#xA;And more pressure will give you just more bubbles of the same nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-09-05T18:06:38.600" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T18:06:38.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5029" CreationDate="2011-09-05T16:11:07.213" Score="7" ViewCount="2712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a recipe that called for Carastan malt. My LHBS didn't carry it, so I just used 40 L Crystal. In the finished beer, I'm missing the toffee and toastiness found in the original. Does anyone know of a better substitute? If there aren't really any good substitutes, where is a good place that I can find it online?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1601" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2011-11-07T19:48:50.643" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T19:48:50.643" Title="Carastan substitute?" Tags="|beer|ingredients|malt|specialty-malt|substitution|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4969" CreationDate="2011-09-05T17:27:17.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the basic recipe that you asked for. The yeast nutrient helps assure that you get good yeast action (not a problem if you have fresh yeast). At 70F, it took less than 4 days to ferment out. Cider was ok (fairly flat) in 2 weeks after bottling (couldn't resist tasting it), but excellent in 4. Think I'm going to try a batch primed with dark brown sugar to see how it tastes. Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic Hard Apple Cider&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;•   4 gal. Musselmann’s Apple Cider (pasteurized, 100% juice, no preservatives)&#xA;•   5 tsp yeast nutrient&#xA;•   1 packet Red Star Cotes de Blanc yeast&#xA;•   3 tsp white sugar for activating yeast&#xA;•   1.25 cup white sugar for priming before bottling&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dissolve yeast nutrient in a small portion of slightly warm cider, then add cider and yeast nutrient solution to carboy. Activate yeast by adding 3 tsp sugar to 1 cup filtered water at about 105 F, then mixing in the yeast package contents. Allow to stand for at least 15 min until foaming begins to occur. Add yeast to carboy, and swirl vigorously for 5 minutes to aerate cider mixture. Seal with airlock and allow to ferment at 65-70 F until bubble rate in airlock is less than one bubble per 15 sec. Rack into priming bucket and add priming sugar as calculated based on desired CO2 volume. Bottle and allow to age for at least 4 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T17:27:17.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5027" CreationDate="2011-09-05T18:40:45.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crystal 15L would have been a closer sub I think, even though the carastan is around 30-35L. I don't think there is a real good substitute for it.  There aren't a lot of malts like it, and I don't see too many people use it.  I put it in an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com/carastan-english-bitter/828&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ordinary Bitter&lt;/a&gt; last year and it does have a nice toffee aroma to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A combo of C15 and some special roast might get you in the ball park.&#xA;C40L is more caramel than toffee to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-09-06T21:47:32.893" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T21:47:32.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5024" CreationDate="2011-09-05T19:12:53.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say bubbles, do you mean the mobile bubbles that form near the bottom of the glass and migrate upward, or do you mean the cells in the foamy head that collects at the surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding of actual bubbles is essentially what brewchez said above: it's a function of glassware and suspended particles in the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Head retention however is a different topic, and if that's what you're asking you might re-ask your question in terms of head density, head retention, head texture, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1417" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T19:12:53.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4961" CreationDate="2011-09-05T19:30:49.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally, your flow rate into your mash tun would be at or less than your flow rate through the mash and out into your kettle. In this case, liquid shouldn't be collecting in your mash tun, and when you hit 1.010 SG in your kettle you can simply stop adding sparge water. The slight &quot;in flight&quot; load still making it's way through the mash at that point shouldn't be enough to hurt your numbers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your flow rate through your mash is painfully slow, you might look at your lauter geometry and see if there's some improvement to be made. Also rice hulls can loosen up a thick mash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1417" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T19:30:49.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5034" CreationDate="2011-09-06T07:35:27.030" Score="10" ViewCount="3631" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is a direct consequence of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4963/when-to-harvest-wild-hops&quot; title=&quot;When to harvest wild hops?&quot;&gt;When to harvest wild hops?&lt;/a&gt; one. I have heard about various techniques to do it: sun-drying, warm rooms plus paper bags to capture their humidity, ovens etc. What's your suggestion? If you suggest an oven, can you specify the ideal temperature and drying time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; I have built a dehydrator with a very small amount of money. Basically it is composed by four disconnected wooden frames onto which I have nailed a metal mosquito net. It works like a charm!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1398" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T02:05:19.787" Title="How to dry harvested fresh hops?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5032" CreationDate="2011-09-06T12:26:33.783" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5GkD2GQ3Tg&amp;amp;feature=related&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;furnace filters and a box fan (~2:40).&lt;/a&gt;   You probably want to avoid a normal food dehydrator, because most of them use heat as well as moving air, so whatever you're drying winds up getting cooked as well as dried, which will break down some of the more subtle chemical compounds.    If you can't do that for some reason, I would try something like window screens and a cool, dark, dry (50% humidity or lower) room, and try to move them around or turn them over every day or so, to get all sides equally dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T12:26:33.783" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5032" CreationDate="2011-09-06T16:09:17.860" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a food dehydrator.  It does a great job of drying and with the adjustable temp control, temp isn't a problem.  The only big drawback is the limited capacity, which means that I have to harvest hops every day or 2 for a couple weeks.  After they are dry, I vacuum seal them and keep them in the freezer.  Using this method, they easily keep for 3 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-09-06T20:42:15.043" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T20:42:15.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4961" CreationDate="2011-09-06T17:20:14.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sugars left behind in a batch sparging scenario are generally the same as in a fly sparge set up.  The only difference is that in batch sparging there is no water left in the tun.  In fly sparging the tun is filled with water.  But the net effect on efficiency is the same.  If you were to go and fill the batch sparged tun up again, as if to do a third run off, it would be at or around 1.010.  You can't get all the sugars out regardless of method being used.  100% efficiency does not make the best beer either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, its not hurting efficiency over other forms of sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T17:20:14.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5038" CreationDate="2011-09-07T00:42:13.563" Score="8" ViewCount="2802" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ladies and Gentlemen of Homebrewing, I was cruising my Google+ account, and I am stalking (I mean following/stalking) Wil Wheaton, and I noticed he is a homebrewer!  Tonight he posted a question.  I directed him here, however I doubt that he would read my post, so perhaps you all could head over to &lt;a href=&quot;https://plus.google.com/108176814619778619437/posts?hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wil Wheaton's Google+ Profile&lt;/a&gt; and help him out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://plus.google.com/108176814619778619437/posts/JF75UnURMzs?hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;He asks&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making an oatmeal stout for Jaime Paglia, and I'm trying to figure out the best time to put in the oats. This will be a partial mash, using extract for the base and some steeped specialty grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find consensus on the usual forums. Some brewers say to put the oats (about 1 pound for a 5 gallon batch) in with the steeping grains. Others say you have to mash the grains with some 2 row, but don't say how much 2 row you should use, and how to scale back the extract if you go that way. I'm not afraid to do that kind of mashing (yay! experience!), but it's easier to use extract, so that's my preference at this point in my evolution as a brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was thinking that I'd use the basic stout recipe I have, and I'd toast a pound of quick oats in the oven first, then steep them with the specialty grains when they were all toasty and golden and good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm very interested to hear opinions on this, and I thank you all in advance for sharing whatever experience you've had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://plus.google.com/108176814619778619437/posts/3gGhNEsyCEm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You may also want to check out some of his other homebrew related posts&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1272" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T09:21:06.687" Title="Oatmeal stout: Steeping or mash?" Tags="|mash|stout|steeping|oats|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5037" CreationDate="2011-09-07T01:45:43.867" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may notice your malt extract say something like &quot;non-diastatic, unhopped, pure malt extract&quot;, or something similar. Diastatic power is the ability of a malt to convert starch to sugar. In an extract, you don't need it because it's already been converted for you. However, to get starch to turn into fermentable sugar, a diastatic malt is required. The typical malt with the high diastatic power is 2-row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjuncts (such as oat), on the other hand, do not have this power on their own. That said, they can piggy-back off of the enzymes in a diastatic malt such as two-row to perform the conversion and get fermentables. This is why you may have heard that you need to use 2-row along with the oats. A 1:1 ratio should suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastEditorUserId="1558" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T00:42:15.473" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T00:42:15.473" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5041" CreationDate="2011-09-07T04:04:25.943" Score="9" ViewCount="3172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried making cherry mead again (the first time I tried this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4989/cherry-vinegar-was-supposed-to-be-mead&quot;&gt;it got infected&lt;/a&gt;). I tried again yesterday, and it looks like I've got some sort of contamination (&quot;infection&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time I thought that everything was OK, at first. The foam that I usually see from yeast fermentation appeared within 30 minutes of pitching the yeast, but when I got home tonight, it was the much more vigorous bubbling that I saw along the surface. Specific gravity went from 1.076 to 1.028 in a little more than 24 hours. The taste is a bit off - not as bad as last time, but not as good as it should be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I did differently from last time: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;No&lt;/em&gt; fresh cherries, just pasteurized cherry juice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The juice bottle was only opened moments before adding it to the must.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added two cinnamon sticks with the cherry juice (for &lt;em&gt;supposed&lt;/em&gt; antibacterial properties)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I brought everything up to the boiling point for a few minutes before letting it cool and pitching the yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sealed a plastic bag over the top of the fermentation jar (to keep out fruit flies).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the second time it's happened... I'm guessing now that it's either the cherry juice itself (supposed to be pasteurized, but who knows), the equipment (it's all glass and stainless steel, but one food-safe plastic piece - maybe that one needs to go?), something in the air?, ...maybe the yeast is bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I'm going to throw a few campden tablets in there and then put it in the fridge to chill. Does anything think this can be saved? I know I'd have to re-pasteurize it and add more honey or sugar - or is infected must not even salvageable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw that it was still &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; bubbling in the fridge this morning. That's after I put in 3 campden tablets (The guy at the wine store said 2 is usually enough for under 5 litres) and left it in the fridge overnight. It's either very hardy yeast or a very hardy infection. I'm not going to give up hope yet, I'll test it again when I get home tonight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just tested it again. Specific Gravity is only down to 1.026 so not much fermentation has happened in the last 24 hours, I guess the bubbling this morning (and even this evening) was just gas that was already there being released. The surface is still clear (save for small clusters of bubbles) and the taste is not as bad as yesterday. The smell is like sour cherries though (and I used sweet black cherry juice!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So guess I most of the panic was due to my inexperience with fruit meads, and not knowing what to expect. I'm guessing the cherry juice was a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; good yeast nutrient - I'm used to pitching dry yeast without adding nutrients or energizers, so I guess I was just surprised by the vigorous and intense reaction I got here, as well as the sudden and strange change in taste and smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2012-01-13&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I finally had one of these bottles yesterday. It was nice but the cherry flavour was very mild, much more so that I thought it would. Next time, I think I will use at least 50-50 blend of sour cherry and black cherry juices (or all sour cherry), and use much more juice and much less water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T11:37:15.853" Title="Possibly infected mead: is it worth keeping?" Tags="|mead|fruit|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-07T04:32:01.527" Score="14" ViewCount="8083" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any secret tricks to avoiding an exorbitant amount of soot on the brew kettle after the boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have been making all grain batches recently using a 20 gallon stock pot and a propane burner, but we can never get the pot clean afterwards, so I'm finding black hand prints all over the house for weeks after brewing.  The most recent batch we attempted to cover the bottom with aluminum foil; this was minimally successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T18:49:42.037" Title="Avoiding excessive soot on brew kettles" Tags="|equipment|all-grain|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5039" CreationDate="2011-09-07T05:28:24.127" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slow down a second, DWRHAH. What makes you think this batch is contaminted(&quot;infected&quot;)? Vigorous fermentation is usually just a sign of good yeast health. Most of my batches of beer are done with the bulk of fermentation 24-48 hours after pitching. Honey, unlike malt, is mostly monosaccharides, and is actually easier for yeast to ferment, thus would progress even faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there can be a lot of waste from this quick fermentation which the yeast will need time to clean up. Even if it smells or tastes a little off right now, I would hold on and see if it is just natural off flavors that the yeast can clean up. Off flavors will also diminish naturally with age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no floating masses that are obvious infections and it doesn't taste or smell completely terrible (usually infections are REALLY apparent) then I would just let the mead sit for a few months, forget about it for a while, and come back in the winter when you are really craving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But maybe I'm way off and you have terrible contamination. Either way, good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T11:37:15.853" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T11:37:15.853" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5040" CreationDate="2011-09-07T09:03:07.397" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I've understood, propane soots excessively when burned with too little oxygen - does your burner have some method of adjusting inflow of air?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also quote a random forum post:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was a Scoutmaster for many many years and found Fells Naptha bar&#xA;  soap to be the best for coating pots before cooking and for cleaning&#xA;  them after, even if you did not coat them first. I liked to shred some&#xA;  with a grater, put it in a plastic bottle with some water, and then&#xA;  use it after it dissolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you can try the same with some heavy duty soap next time, though I can't speak for its effectiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastEditorUserId="758" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T16:11:02.157" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T16:11:02.157" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5040" CreationDate="2011-09-07T14:50:26.760" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The flame on your burner should be set such that it is almost totally blue, with just an occasional bit of yellow/orange.   The soot is coming from having the gas/air mixture off-balance.  If you see mostly yellow or orange flame, you are pretty much guaranteed to get soot on your kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will also severely affect your gas efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to take your burner apart and clean the element with a scrub brush and some oven cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T14:50:26.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5046" CreationDate="2011-09-07T17:00:29.547" Score="9" ViewCount="1382" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now, I'm working on a peach wheat beer. I pitched about 5 days ago now, and the airlock stopped bubbling yesterday. I'm going to do a gravity reading later on today to see if it's finished. My current plan is to rack the beer onto the peaches in secondary, which I've seen recommended in several places. My question is, &lt;strong&gt;how long should I wait between primary fermentation finishing and racking onto the fruit?&lt;/strong&gt; I know right now the yeast should be cleaning up after its self in the primary, and if I wasn't going to be adding more sugar (in the form of fruit) in, I'd definitely leave it alone for a while. But, since its about to go ferment again, should I give it time, or can it do clean up once it's done fermenting the peaches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T02:25:18.410" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T02:25:18.410" Title="Fruit Beer: When to rack to secondary?" Tags="|beer|fruit|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5037" CreationDate="2011-09-07T17:12:57.443" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't mash the oats, you're simply adding starch to your wort. That starch can serve as food for bacteria and encourage an infection in your beer. Bottom line...don't steep oats. Mash them with a diastatic malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T17:12:57.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5044" CreationDate="2011-09-07T17:47:45.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you already know the answer.  You want to wait until the gravity has evened out and off flavors are cleaned up, but not so long that the yeast have all settled.  You also want to be sure enough yeast are floating around that fermentation can quickly start again and any bacteria that rode the fruit train will be outnumbered.  I usually give it two to three weeks.  Follow the advice offered in response to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/88/if-when-to-move-to-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and you can't go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T17:47:45.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5044" CreationDate="2011-09-07T18:20:59.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished my PeachFuzz Wheat Beer... basically did what you were talking about and it turned out very good. The only problem I had with this mix was with carbonation. After I moved it to a warmer place (about 75deg) it carbed up and is very tastey. I love it! Good luck and I hope it works out for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1532" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T18:20:59.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5049" CreationDate="2011-09-07T23:10:01.570" Score="11" ViewCount="16141" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is Starsan effective against yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After resuming homebrewing again after a 2 year break, I started having pellicle appearing on my starters (after fermentation had completed), which has now spread to my plastic fermenting buckets so that the last 3 batches have been contaminated (&quot;infected&quot;) - looking similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/post-your-infection-71400/#post741141&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. The beer tastes fine, maybe slightly sour-sweaty. I plan to clean and sanitize all my equipment that's used post boil. I normally use Starsan to sanitize, but clearly the wild yeast are not affected. The made up starsan reads 2.8-3.0 on the pH meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would iodophor or bleach be a better solution to get rid of this unwanted visitor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T16:34:18.263" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T18:25:59.137" Title="does starsan kill yeast" Tags="|yeast|contamination|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5048" CreationDate="2011-09-08T00:16:57.060" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Star-San kills yeast.  Star-san doesn't discriminate across different microbes.  Despite that yeast can survive a pH2 solution, the pH is not the killing action of StarSan, its the redox reaction on the cell membranes of microbes that does the killing. The low pH is just what indicates that StarSan is active, not how it kills.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind too that StarSan is a sanitizer.  It doesn't kill at 100%, neither does bleach or iodophore; otherwise they would be sterilizers. (Be sure you are diluting it appropriately, and not rinsing the sanitizer out with water either)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be sure you aren't doing something later in your process that contaminates your cultures.  Also, be sure you are cleaning your equipment before sanitizing.  You can not effectively sanitize something if it hasn't been cleaned.  Try something like PBW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also check your equipment.  If you feel you are appropriately cleaning all your stuff out, then maybe you have a scratch or something that is harboring unwanted microbes.  Recheck you process after sanitation, change your brewing location if possible.  If all else fails, get new tubing and a bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-09-08T14:17:56.570" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T14:17:56.570" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5051" CreationDate="2011-09-08T03:59:17.273" Score="7" ViewCount="3801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a very new brewer, just cracked my first beer of my first batch tonight, which was a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hbkitreviews.com/view-id-237-Coopers-India-Pale-Ale-%28IPA%29.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Coopers IPA&lt;/a&gt;. The beer was quite a bit better than I had expected for a first-time, but did not taste much like the strong, hoppy IPAs that I love. I'd like to take another crack at it, but am not yet feeling courageous enough to get too complex with the recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a beginner's level brewkit or recipe that I can use for a very hoppy (and hopefully strong) IPA? Some of my favorites are Dogfish Head 60 minute, Racer 5, Victory Hop Wallop, and Mojo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1653" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:49:00.393" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:49:00.393" Title="Recommendations for Simple, Hoppy IPA" Tags="|ipa|kits|americanipa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-19T19:20:50.107" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5050" CreationDate="2011-09-08T06:35:13.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. A simple base recipe to think about is just this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Base malt, 90-95%: For the alcohol ;-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crystal malt, 5-10%: Add a little sweetness and malty, caramelly  characteristic, but not too much!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hops: Some nice American hops based off of your preferred beers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast: American ale yeast, for a cleaner finish characteristic of American IPAs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very basic guideline that allows you to play a lot with flavors and composition, but is basically the common elements of a lot of American IPAs. If this is your second brew, you are probably doing an extract beer so I would say like 10 lbs of pale extract syrup (or equivalent amount of dry extract if you use that), steep in 1-2 lbs of Crystal 20-60, and then pick some good hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops are really the key for this. If you want a simple recipe I would use something like Chinook or Centennial for bittering and Cascade or Amarillo for aroma and taste. Your hop additions should be something like 2 oz. for 60 min, 2 oz. for 15 min, 2 oz. dry hopped. This will get you a lot of bitterness, flavor, and aroma. If you are feeling more creative, you can look through the American Hops section of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_hop_varieties&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; wikipedia article for ideas. Getting a bunch of variety is fun, but so are single hop beers where you can really analyze the qualities of a single hop variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another great thing to do is look up clone recipes of your favorite IPAs and see what hops people generally put in them. You will start seeing a lot of hops in common throughout different clones of different beers you enjoy, and you can build your hop profile around that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/866603/american-ipa-recipes/simple-ipa&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; a basic recipe on Beer Calculus to get you started. This recipe is simple and really easy to brew, but can produce some awesome beer. The real key is figuring out which hop characteristics you enjoy and choosing your hop profile based on that (and what your homebrew shop has in stock!). Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T06:35:13.850" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-19T19:20:50.107" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5054" CreationDate="2011-09-08T07:54:08.523" Score="6" ViewCount="727" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is just my first batch so I'm a complete newbie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a dry euro brown ale (grain + multiextract) and the temperature is between 57-67 f, but my bucket doesn't have a thermometer but I guess the inside is a bit cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made my wort on sunday the first read of the hydrometer was between 1060~1065. Since this morning I almost get the airlock stop bubblig(I known this is not the best sign for anything but..) and tonight the read is 1010. I was planning to rack it to the carboy on saturday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this look-a-like speedy process is freaking me out (is my first batch :D).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any experiences with this behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May be is a silly question but mates the internet is full of contradictory information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1695" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T14:28:42.230" Title="what could be going on? 1065 to 1010 in 3 days and a half" Tags="|fermentation|specific-gravity|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5050" CreationDate="2011-09-08T10:19:32.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1845431650&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;An Enthusiast's Guide to Homebrew Beers: Making Ales, Lagers and Unique Hybrid Styles&lt;/a&gt; by Sam Calagione, it's got a recipe for 60 Minute IPA in it, as well as another for Hopfather a 100 IBU IPA. The recipes are all extract brews, so you only need some way of boiling the extract with hops and you're set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made quite a few of the recipes in the book and they've mostly turned out to be excellent and very drinkable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T10:19:32.733" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-19T19:20:50.107" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5052" CreationDate="2011-09-08T11:24:45.613" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you had a very active fermentation.  It is not uncommon for the majority of fermentation to be complete in a few days.  Commercial breweries strive for this.  HOWEVER, this does not mean that the yeast are done with your beer!  Even after fermentation is complete, the yeast will clean up after themselves, reducing things like diacetyl. (which causes a buttery smell and/or flavor)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned racking the beer to secondary in less than a week -- the current thinking in the homebrew community is that using a secondary (except to add fruit or dry hop) is usually unnecessary and introduces another opportunity for oxidation and infection.  I routinely leave my beers in primary (plastic buckets) for 3-4 weeks without issue.  I &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; had an issue with moving a beer too soon, however -- it was a butter bomb.  Unless you have a reason to transfer, I would suggest leaving the beer in the primary until bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it is possible that this beer will end up at 1.006, or some other number.  Your lower reading doesn't prove that it's finished; the yeast may slowly consume additional sugars.  I would suggest taking successive readings on multiple days to make sure that the gravity is still not changing to know when fermentation is complete.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T11:24:45.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5060" CreationDate="2011-09-08T12:21:33.067" Score="9" ViewCount="1474" Body="&lt;p&gt;What effect, if any, does the pH level of my water have on OG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1648" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-09-08T14:30:12.430" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T16:10:16.620" Title="Water PH level and the effect on original gravity" Tags="|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5040" CreationDate="2011-09-08T13:15:49.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like other answers have said, your burner's flame should be mostly light blue.  The more yellow it is, the less efficient you are burning.  Modify your mix to allow more oxygen and less fuel by either turning down the gas a touch, or opening the fuel-air mixing doo-hickey that most burners have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that STILL does not take care of the problem, get a bottle of dish soap.  You want something that is as thick as possible.  Squeeze some into your hand and rub on the sides/bottom of the pot.  I've done this in cooking on a campfire, and it works like a charm.  Just hose off the pot after you are finished and you are good to go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T13:15:49.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5055" CreationDate="2011-09-08T14:03:53.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;None. Water of any PH has the same specific gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T14:03:53.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5052" CreationDate="2011-09-08T14:28:42.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think the ambient temp is getting up to 67F, then its completely likely that the beer in the bucket can get to 72F or more.  Fermenting beer actually warms up from the activity of the yeast.&#xA;So its completely normal to expect a beer to ferment out in 3 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some flavor issues that come with a fast and warm ferment, but to address your specific question, its completely normal for that to have happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T14:28:42.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5055" CreationDate="2011-09-08T14:32:18.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose that if you had a really weird water source there could be enough dissolved salts of some sort driving pH, and those dissolved salts may change the pH.  Which in that case the water would probably be cloudy, smell funny, or taste really weird, possibly mineral like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in general, pH and gravity are not correlated under most conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T14:32:18.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5055" CreationDate="2011-09-08T16:10:16.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could have an effect it your pH was far enough off that you didn't get good conversion.  But the pH would have to be WAY off to have much affect at all.  In general, pH will affect clarity and flavor much more than OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T16:10:16.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5062" PostTypeId="7" CreationDate="2011-09-09T13:34:05.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Homebrew - Stack Exchange is for dedicated home brewers and serious enthusiasts. If you have a question about...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the brewing process  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brew appreciation  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and it is not about&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;selling alcohol  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buying commercially brewed products&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;irresponsible consumption of alcohol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then you’re in the right place to ask your question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T13:34:05.737" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T13:34:05.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5065" CreationDate="2011-09-09T14:30:30.467" Score="10" ViewCount="4328" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend asked me the other day what the &quot;hop burst&quot; technique was and how to calculate the amount of hops required in a recipe. I made some vague statements about late addition of hops and left it at that (since I don't know any more than this!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone who has used this method explain what the hop burst technique is, what advantages is has, and how do you calculate your final bitterness ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-09-22T12:58:21.470" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T12:58:21.470" Title="Hop burst technique &amp; bitterness calculation" Tags="|hops|bitterness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5037" CreationDate="2011-09-09T14:58:02.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made an oatmeal porter which came out really, really nicely. The mouthfeel was smooth and silky but not overdone. The only downside was that it had next to zero head retention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the &quot;smooth&quot; palate, you need to mash the oatmeal with your grains, but you really do not want to overdo the oats. I used 100g oats in a 15l batch (about 1/3 pound of oats in 5 gallons) which was easily enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on repeating my recipe but need to work out how to retain that head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck on the stout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T14:58:02.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5063" CreationDate="2011-09-09T15:11:11.977" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hop bursting is a technique where all hops are added late, with 30 minutes or less left in the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops contain lots of oils that impart aroma and taste into the final beer. However, when added early in the boil, most of these volatile oils boil off. Thus the oils from bittering hops added early in the boil tend to boil off and the hops only contribute to the bitterness of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By adding more hops later in the boil, you can still achieve the same bitterness but also keep around more oils and get more hop aroma and flavor in the beer. Brewers do this by adding a &quot;burst&quot; of hops around the 30 or 40 minute mark of the boil, and continuing to add lots of hops until the end of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the bittering hops are added later in the boil, they add more aroma and flavor, but less alpha acids, so more are needed to achieve the same bitterness. John Palmer has a great &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-5.html&quot;&gt;section&lt;/a&gt; about how to calculate IBUs based on hop additions, it's basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight (oz.) * % alpha acids * 75 * Utilization(time, gravity) / Volume of Wort (gallons)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where utilization is a number based on the length of time the hops are boiled for and the gravity of the wort (he has a chart for looking up this number on the site).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could use a tool to make these calculations for you. I prefer &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/&quot;&gt;Beer Calculus&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/868583/american-ipa-recipes/burstomania&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; an example of a recipe that uses a burst of hops late in the boil for lots of hop aroma and taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastEditorUserId="678" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T17:56:25.927" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T17:56:25.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5027" CreationDate="2011-09-09T15:12:48.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK you can buy Carastan in homebrew shops. The main supplier seems to be Baird's malt :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bairds-malt.co.uk/Roasted.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bairds-malt.co.uk/Roasted.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen it for sale online though (I will keep looking since I am also after some).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T15:12:48.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-09T16:00:46.307" Score="5" ViewCount="3206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I planted my first rhizome this year to try my hand at hop growing. To my surprise the plant flourished and was ready to yield at least a half pound of hops. To my great sadness I awoke this morning to find that aphids had completely ravaged the entire plant. &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; Next year what can be done to control them and not leave a residue that will end up in beer? I have read a little about the soap and water treatment but wonder if this will leave any aftertaste in a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastEditorUserId="913" LastEditDate="2011-09-10T17:18:19.413" LastActivityDate="2011-09-10T17:18:19.413" Title="What can be used to keep aphids off of hops without ruining the taste of beer?" Tags="|hops|aftertaste|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2223" CreationDate="2011-09-09T17:14:12.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been following induction brewing for a while. At one point, where I lived I could only do electric (I now have a big gas stove, but I do have to compete for the kitchen space still). So I will share what I know..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Induction boil times and boil capacity is determined by the wattage of the Induction plate. Just like gas is for BTU, or resistive-electric (traditional) stoves and wattage. Wattage for induction electric does not equate to wattage for resistive electric stoves, either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The highest power anything you can plug into a kitchen 20A 120V circuit is 2000W. 2000w portable induction plates are very rare in the USA. (They're more common in countries where energy prices are higher, which forces people to buy energy efficient appliances).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also premium induction stoves or built-ins for the kitchen, which use 240V. Expect to pay an extra $1000 for such a stove. However it may be worth it if you value the conservation value or faster boil times. (If you don't, it will take a long time to pay for itself in energy savings, but eventually it will...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you can find 2000W portable induction plates for $200-$400. Pricey, but they are not things you can find at Target or Walmart. Using a smaller induction plate like 1300W will get you results like some have posted here. I would love to hear from someone who uses a 2000W portable or a built-in model....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option for electric brewing is a DIY brewing rig, using 120V heating elements, or 2 120V heating elements (on separate 120V circuits!), or 240V electric if you are so lucky to have that option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a nice build of a single-120V element brewing system, from Brew Your Own magazine:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/issue/article/issues/266-november-2009/1987-countertop-brewing-system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.byo.com/stories/issue/article/issues/266-november-2009/1987-countertop-brewing-system&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I have been considering building this with 2 120V elements (just unplugging one once the roiling boil kicks in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T17:14:12.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5067" CreationDate="2011-09-09T17:51:21.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cascade or Willamette hops? I grow both, and they are especially vulnerable (or attractive) to aphids for some reason.. more so than other hop varieties. On the other hand, Cascade and Willamette are vigorous and resist mold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't do anything to fight aphids except mulch around the base of the plants. I bought hemlock and wood chip mulch, and mulched for 1 meter in every direction. The hops love mulch by the way, and you have to water them less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mulch makes it easy to keep grass and weeds away from the hops. No grass means you expose the aphids to attack by predator insects such as earwigs and wasps and yellowjacks, and birds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As someone else noted, soap and water reportedly helps but I can't speak to that myself from experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also look into gardening forums about aphids. Some vegetables and flowers are useful for repelling specific types of insects. Catnip is a perennial and reportedly repels aphids: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pallensmith.com/articles/pest-control-plants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pallensmith.com/articles/pest-control-plants&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be afraid to plant something next to your hops. (Offtopic, but both pole and bush beans are awesome for injecting nitrogen into the soil... hops love nitrogen! I've started growing beans mid-summer for this reason (not really for the bean harvest).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T17:51:21.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4728" CreationDate="2011-09-09T20:15:54.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can NOT both &quot;compare hop flavors quickly&quot; and &quot;without brewing a few batches&quot;.  These are mutually exclusive.  You must consume single hop beers of different hops in order to compare the flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about it... it is impossible to compare flavors using other sense, such as vision or smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, MontbardBrewing already correctly answered this question. As a homebrewer of 20 years, all I can do is +1 his answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI - This past spring, if you were lucky you could have found the Sam Adams Lattitude 48 SPECIAL 12-pack. The Lattitude 48 special pack had 4 versions of single hop IPA, so you really could quickly compare hop flavor. I still have a couple of these tucked away in my wine fridge. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T20:15:54.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4574" CreationDate="2011-09-09T20:19:43.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pick up a copy of Designing Great Beers. For an advanced homebrewer book, it gets real deep into 4 or so different types of oils, how isomerization in the boil works, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The book is 2 halves... background science and research, plus a study of AHA competition winning beers. The AHA competition part is a little dated, but the other half of the book... great beer geek science.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also write to FreshHops... they have access to a lot of information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T20:19:43.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4739" CreationDate="2011-09-09T20:51:32.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll be fine if you had SOME extract in the boil (even if it were just steeped grain extract). You need some malt for the hops to isomerize.. you can not just boil them in plain water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will get a higher bitterness out of your beer because of the late malt additions. This is good if you were making an IPA. If you were making a lightly-hopped beer, the extra bitterness will knock it out of style guidelines. Maybe the beer will be too bitter to be enjoyable, but it could also be better this way (really!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI - What you did by accident, I have done deliberately. &#xA;Occasionally, I need to do a &quot;partial boil&quot; where the batch size is LARGER than the pot (you add top-off water to the fermenter). A drawback to this approach is loss in hop utilization efficiency. HOWEVER... that inefficiency is completely offset by adding half of your malt in the last 10 minutes of the boil. Basically the less dense your wort, the better utilization you have during the boil. I normally do a full boil, but once in a while I will squeeze 10 gallons into a 7.5 gallon pot. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T20:51:32.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4425" CreationDate="2011-09-09T20:59:57.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bittering is almost entirely about alpha acids. You could use some cascade, or a LITTLE bit of Magnum, or a TON of a low-bittering hop and they will all produce (more or less) the same bittering result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is a broad generalization and it's not always true, so don't learn this as a simple answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every hop is made up of 4 or more hop oils, including alpha acids but also beta acids, cohumuline, etc. These all affect the hop experience... less so if they were used for bittering, but it can add up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, for any beer I make which has later hop additions (flavor or aroma, 30 mins or less) I will bitter with good old Magnum hops. Buy a POUND of this hop when you can!  But I have made beers with large amounts of magnum and I got an unintended &quot;citrus/grapefruit&quot; characteristic. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it does not. Magnum, Northern Brewer, and Cascade tend to be some of the most popular bittering hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most hops can be grouped as &quot;citrus, piney, earthy&quot; etc. and having a chart of this will allow you to easily substitute hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T20:59:57.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4035" CreationDate="2011-09-09T21:06:03.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops are full of nitrogen and will make for great compost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I compose -everything- I can... veggies, hops, grains, old bread, rinsed eggshells, coffee, and fish and shellfish (can be stinky). To keep it from becoming a pile of slop, I layer in a mound of broken twigs every now and then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is best to compost in a pile. Do not ever dump your old hops or grain into the garden. Besides attracting pests and mold, it would take longer to compost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, don't compost hops if you have a dog and he eats everything. Hops are really bad for dogs, as bad as garlic or onions. (They're bad for cats also, but cats won't eat garbage like dogs do.. they're too smart by half).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T21:06:03.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3971" CreationDate="2011-09-09T21:13:50.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the style. As suggested, Fuggles (or Willamette) are natural in Brit beers. Goldings also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my FAVORITE dry hop for a British beer would be East Kent Goldings. You must try it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a little pricier for East Kent Goldings but worth it. Goldings grown in the US or NZ will be good hops but will taste nothing at all like EK Goldings. (You could say that about all hops - true - but Goldings flavor profile seems to be especially affected by the soil profile).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T21:13:50.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-09-09T21:24:05.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always have 1 lb of Magnum hops in the freezer. I second buying Magnum a bittering hop suitable for MOST beers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most beers, the bittering hop does not matter much. All that matters is the correct IBUs for the recipe. So when I follow a recipe that called for say Willamette bittering and say Willamette flavoring hops, I will usually replace the bittering hop with Magnum. (A little Magnum goes a lot further than most hops, so do not substitute at a 1:1 ratio by weight!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For dual purpose bittering AND flavor/aroma in US and British beers, Willamette/Fuggles is a good one to have. It's not as high alpha as Magnum though so you'll need more for bittering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T21:24:05.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-09-09T21:30:03.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saaz hops is great for citrus.  Many homebrewers never brew with Saaz... not sure why. Perhaps because it is traditionally a lager hop, or because it is slightly more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bitter with Magnum, flavor/aroma addition with Saaz. I just brewed a 20L batch of Blonde Ale using a base of Pils malt, 1 lb rye, 1 lb corn sugar, Magnum bittering, Saaz for 30 mins. It is AWESOME... well received by craft beer drinking friends and the &quot;Coors Light&quot; people we all know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T21:30:03.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="610" CreationDate="2011-09-09T21:47:48.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in southern New Hampshire, and currently grow: &#xA;Cascade - 4 plants, &#xA;Centennial - plants, &#xA;Hallerteau Mittelfruh - 2 plants, &#xA;Nugget - 2 plants, &#xA;Willamette - 2 plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops grow very well in the northeast. Just be sure it gets at least half a day's sun (or more). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important not to let them get too overgrown onto themselves, or they may harbor mites aphids or beetles. By weeding and mulching around the base, you air the plants out and discourage mold, and give space to birds and hornets/yellowjackets who will feast on any pests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can clone hops in the spring and in the fall. Just dig up a few inches of root to either side of a ground shoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the fall, I bury the hop bines under fresh mulch. The bines will become new roots sometimes, so you can spread the plant. Don't cut the bine until it's taken root, which probably would not happen for a few months of wet weather (wait until spring).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also grow hops along friend's property, stone walls, fences along sheds etc. I offer to eliminate some poison ivy and plant my hops, and give them some beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was my 3rd year growing, and I got 4 lbs of wet hops. I used 2 pounds of that in a Wet Hop Harvest IPA, and dried out and vacuum bagged the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T21:47:48.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6294" CreationDate="2011-09-10T09:12:53.923" Score="18" ViewCount="3398" Body="&lt;p&gt;The conventional wisdom in homebrewing has been challenged in recent years.  This wisdom held that a beer should be transferred from the primary fermentation vessel to a secondary one after 7-10 days.  In recent years, many homebrewers have advocated for leaving the beer in primary until packaging, rather than racking to a secondary fermenter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages and disadvantages of the two methods? Are there limits to how long a beer should remain in primary, in the long primary scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T23:34:27.700" Title="What are the advantages and disadvantages of transferring to a secondary vs. a long primary?" Tags="|beer|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5079" CreationDate="2011-09-10T10:04:03.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only difference I have noticed between a long primary and transferring to a secondary is that in secondary conditioning I end up with a beer that has slightly less sediment. And this might just indicate that my beer siphoning skills are not yet perfected! I have noticed no obvious difference in brew quality between primary-only and secondary beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, unless you really want to reduce the amount of sediment in bottles beer, I personally don't think the effort and risk of contamination in transferring to a secondary is worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interested to see what others say on this subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-09-10T10:18:58.567" LastActivityDate="2011-09-10T10:18:58.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5082" CreationDate="2011-09-10T11:58:59.387" Score="7" ViewCount="1409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started a transition to making yeast starters and also using a homemade stir plate and am curious how to estimate the viability of the yeast when using this method. Normally, there are definite, visible signs when using an airlock, but how does one judge the level of attenuation when the yeast and wort are constantly moving? Is it primarily by color, viscosity, foam or some combination of all of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've prepared a 1000ml 1030-1040 starter with Wyeast 1057 in a room ~ 72F. After 12 hours, I see a 1/4&quot; foam ring at the top of the wort. Is this what I should be seeing and is there a more systematic way to gauge when it's ready to pitch. I have read a lot of conflicting advice about the length required on the stir plate and would like to be able to understand what guidelines others typically follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-bill   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2011-09-10T12:42:20.267" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T01:11:10.877" Title="How to estimate yeast starter viability when using stir plate?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5081" CreationDate="2011-09-10T18:52:46.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know what a standard starter looks like when I pour in one vial of yeast.  When I come back to it 24 hrs later, it is usually creamier in appearance.  This indicates that cell growth has occurred and there are more cells present than before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;estimate&lt;/em&gt; is &gt;90% viable.  The &quot;how&quot; is based on experience and knowing the biology of yeast.  But if you are looking for a way to know that anything has happened in the starter (because you can't count bubbles) then you should check the gravity, pre and post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if viability is what you are actually interested in.  If you are trying to understand or estimate the cell count, then you need a microscope to count cell #s.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-10T18:52:46.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="610" CreationDate="2011-09-11T03:28:40.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're growing from a rhizome it's going to take a couple of years until you get a good yield. Recommended to me by the head of NZHops was to actually take a clipping at the beginning of the season. If you have any hop farm nearby, they are usually more than happy to give you one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The soil you grow it in is super important, It needs to be fairly well draining as you'll keep it well watered but they don't like swimming. I use a large pot and get a potting mix that's high in nitrates. We have some dodgy shops around that sell potting mix designed for growing weed, this works extremely well for hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do grow quite high, mine usually just meet the top of my two story house. I just run a couple of strings from the pot up to the roof. But don't expect to get the same growth as at the hop farms, they are in ideal locations, and you probably aren't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as what varieties you grow, you want one that will handle your weather conditions. Cascade seems to be able to handle most conditions and is probably a good start. Make sure you get a female plant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try and keep them shielded from the wind, if the leading tip gets bashed around too much, it will stop growing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let the plant grow out and once i have a couple of shoots reaching the edge of the pot, i will train those onto the string and cut the rest back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the season, cut your shoots off at the bottom, only leave a small bit exposed. Hops have a massive amount of root growth, if you have planted in the ground, get a sharp spade and cut a circle about 30 cm radius around the plant. If you did it in a pot, like me, pull the soil out of the pot, cut the bottom half off and throw away. Replace the soil with some more high nitrate potting mix and put the hop plant and remaining half soil and root structure back on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1307" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T03:28:40.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5099" CreationDate="2011-09-11T06:11:48.010" Score="7" ViewCount="1517" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's cider brewing time of the year and I'm thinking of doing a cherry chocolate cider. My question is whether I should boil the cherries and chocolate nibs in a portions of the cider prior to pitching the yeast, just pitch the cherries (pureed) and nibs in the carboy to &quot;soak&quot; during the fermentation, or to use a cheesecloth bag during the fermentation. Each has its plusses and minusses. Any of you folk have some preferences or suggestions? I'm leaning towards the extraction of flavor before fementation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;update 28DEC2011&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cider is aging and early results seem to be that the flavors are very subtle. Think that this one will need at least 6 months to a year for the chocolate/cherry to come out from the cider base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-12-30T19:29:20.250" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T04:20:22.910" Title="Cherry Chocolate Hard Apple Cider" Tags="|cider|primary|chocolate|pre-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5090" CreationDate="2011-09-11T12:19:53.383" Score="10" ViewCount="1329" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of talk is about dry-hopping in order to bring out the aroma of hops lost during the boiling process. Could a similar approach be used for malt? That is, could the addition of crushed grains to the primary/secondary change the aroma profile of a beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you would have to find some way of sterilizing the grains first (I don't know, steaming?) but would this work?. Has anyone tried it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crazy thought for Sunday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-12-06T10:05:14.177" LastActivityDate="2019-09-08T16:17:28.957" Title="Dry malting - a crazy idea?" Tags="|techniques|malt|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5085" CreationDate="2011-09-11T16:00:57.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt that you'd actually extract any aroma/flavor from adding dry grain.  Which of course raises the question &quot;what aroma do you expect to get from adding dry grain?&quot;.  And as you say, you'd have to have some way to sanitize the grain to prevent a lactic infection.  I can't think of any practical way of doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-09-11T16:57:48.333" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T16:57:48.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5081" CreationDate="2011-09-11T16:37:36.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always start with a &quot;smack pack&quot; of yeast, so I know it's viable because it inflates.  When I pitch it to the starter flask I just shake it up good to aerate (I don't use a stir plate) and give it 24 hours before I pitch it to my wort.  As Brewchez said, it will look milky or cloudy, and mine also always has a clearly visible sediment of yeast in the bottom (more than what you originally put in) and will form a foamy &quot;head&quot; when agitated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T16:37:36.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5089" CreationDate="2011-09-11T20:11:55.590" Score="5" ViewCount="7553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always used either a blowoff tube or a three-piece airlock (one with the small, floating cap on the exhaust tube) for fermentation. Today's batch is my first using the two-piece (S-shaped) airlock. I filled both chambers to the max line marked on each tube and noticed that, after several hours, the sanitizer from one of the chambers has almost completely transferred to the other side, with only a small amount of sanitizer remaining in the U-bend beneath the two chambers. Is this normal for two-piece airlocks? Should I pull it out and refill again with sanitizer or vodka so both sides are equal in volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-bill &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T01:59:07.870" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T23:58:02.537" Title="Is it normal for one side of a two-piece (s-shaped) airlock to be empty during fermentation?" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5088" CreationDate="2011-09-11T21:06:56.653" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's behaving exactly as it should.   Notice that the max-fill line is halfway up the tubes:  that leaves plenty of room for the gas to fill one side without the other side overflowing with sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T21:06:56.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5085" CreationDate="2011-09-11T23:18:52.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've often wondered about how to get more of that wonderful aroma in the beer, but unfortunately, I don't think adding a few oz of grain (cf. dry hopping) will add any appreciable difference, considering that the aroma that is there has been produced by several pounds of grain. (Although the wort was boiled which may drive off aromas.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just thinking aloud, you might get closer to your goal of more malt aroma by saving some of the wort and boiling it in a sealed environment, and then leaving to cool, in the same spirit that a hopback is used with a chiller to capture hop aroma. Although boiling wort is normally in a open environment to allow &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/DMS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dimethyl Sulphides&lt;/a&gt; to evaporate, we are only talking a quart or two, so we can hope this small amount isn't above the taste threshold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a more practical level, you can get more malt flavour and aroma to come through by adjusting the recipe: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add chlorides (up to 50ppm) to emphasize the malt &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use less hops to avoid masking the malt flavour and aroma&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add malts that have a stronger aroma or malt character: munich is a good neutral choice since the character is pure malt, but other speciality malts can be added such as amber, biscuit, victory, melanoiden and in smaller quantities, coffee and chocolate malt to give other aromas as desired. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just to finish on a wild guess, perhaps cold storage after fermentation may also help preserve more of the aroma, in the same way &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4081/does-keeping-a-beer-cold-significantly-preserve-fresh-hop-aroma&quot;&gt;hop aromas are preserved&lt;/a&gt; through cold storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T00:00:01.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5088" CreationDate="2011-09-11T23:26:35.400" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gasses escaping from the bucket (mostly CO2) push the liquid from one tube to the next. The liquid is pushed until the gas can float upwards through the liquid to the exit of the airlock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar thing happens in the 3 piece airlock, only is a little harder to see. The level of liquid inside the area under the cap is pushed downwards, until the gas can escape around the outside of the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-09-12T20:24:24.947" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T20:24:24.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5081" CreationDate="2011-09-11T23:55:54.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to get a feeling for what the right quantity of yeast looks like, you could pitch a new dry sachet of yeast into a cold starter.  An 11g sachet dry yeast has 150-200 billion cells - the right quantity for a 5 gallon batch of 1.040 ale. (0.75-1 mill. cells per ml.)  The cold starter will not start to ferment and the yeast will not stay in suspension, falling to the bottom in a few hours. The amount of yeast at the bottom can serve as a rough guide for the right quantity of yeast to be looking for in your starters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, you don't need to worry about cell density too much - cell health is more important than cell density (within reason!). Under the right conditions, healthy yeast can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.frings.com/wDeutsch/upload/pdf/MBAA_presentation.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;propagate 16x&lt;/a&gt; in 24 hours, so any underpitching is quickly made up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the starter is active and you see a milky color change, you know the yeast are viable and have propagated and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2011-09-12T10:18:46.287" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T10:18:46.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5094" CreationDate="2011-09-12T01:34:39.260" Score="6" ViewCount="2622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading another question &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4417/is-the-iodine-test-for-starch-conversion-pointless&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and it appears that the consensus is that the iodine test isn't all that useful if your recipe is good. But, while reading through everything, I had a thought: if you're hitting your OG, is there anything bad that might be caused by starch remaining in the beer (e.g. extra haziness, early spoilage, possible food for infections)? Or will it just settle out/remain harmlessly in solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T18:26:09.850" Title="Are residual starches bad for the beer?" Tags="|beer|mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5093" CreationDate="2011-09-12T02:12:23.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast cannot metabolize starches, so any starch left provides a food source for infections. You can also get starch haze from too much unconverted starch. In general starches are bad things and should be avoided as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T02:12:23.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5096" CreationDate="2011-09-12T08:18:49.467" Score="5" ViewCount="1485" Body="&lt;p&gt;My IPA was in the primary for 10 days and gravity readings where steady before racking to the secondary.  It’s been in the secondary for 13 days now and emits one bubble every 75 seconds on average.  Temps have been a few degrees lower than recommended since racking.  Can I bottle this now? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1702" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T13:45:26.227" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T13:45:26.227" Title="IPA: When to Bottle" Tags="|bottling|ipa|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5095" CreationDate="2011-09-12T09:18:33.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you got consistent hydrometer readings over several successive days then yes, go ahead and bottle. 3+ weeks in the fermenter sounds like more than sufficient time for your IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the bubble rate is not an accurate way of measuring fermentation activity. Bubbles can be produced by changes in ambient temperature and by simply walking past your carboy/bucket!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[edit]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should rectify this post slightly. You should also check that your FG is reasonably close to what you expected. If it is way off (i.e. 1.03 when it should be 1.01) then you may have a &quot;stuck fermentation&quot; which could lead to problems with explosive bottles etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, check that you are close to your target FG, check consistency of hydrometer readings over 3 successive days, and then bottle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4861/how-do-i-decide-if-the-beer-is-ready-is-my-fermentation-complete/4862#4862&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T19:01:51.867" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5079" CreationDate="2011-09-12T15:34:51.890" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest concern is autolysis of the yeast, which is when a yeast cell ruptures after it dies and releases off-flavors.  This can take months to kick in, and may never even be an issue, but the potential is there for long conditioning.  If I'm going to have a beer in a keg in &amp;lt;2 months, then I'll just keg it off of the primary.  If I'm going to be doing any extended aging, then I'll rack it to a secondary to be safe.  Plus, moving to a secondary for long conditioning frees up the primary to use again.  For most beers though, a primary on its own is just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2011-09-16T22:58:48.433" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T22:58:48.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5000" CreationDate="2011-09-12T16:58:26.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to MDMA's informative chart - the Trans/Cis isomer ratio can be calculated using the following chart taken from A Kinetic Study on the Isomerization of Hop r-Acid - Jaksula, et. all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;x = time at temp&#xA;y = temp&#xA;value = T/C ratio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table 3. T/C-ratio (%)a as a Function of Reaction Time and Temperature: Experiment 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;      5min 10m  15m  20m  30m  45m  60m  90m&#xA;&#xA;80C        153  111  89.7 84.1 70.7 53.9 57.6 &#xA;&#xA;90C  100.0 77.5 75.6 55.4 55.4 49.3 49.1 46.7 &#xA;&#xA;100C  60.8 54.1 61.8 54.9 47.3 47.3 47.1 46.3&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This becomes more important with recent trends toward extreme late hopping&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1703" LastEditorUserId="1792" LastEditDate="2012-07-15T14:38:06.580" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T14:38:06.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5084" CreationDate="2011-09-12T17:29:58.150" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not boil the cherries.  Do not boil the juice, either.  You will create pectin, which will cause cloudiness in the cider among other things.  Instead, you have two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Bring the cherries and juice up to temperature (at least 150 degrees) and hold for 30 minutes (I've seen as low as 10). If you use pasteurized juice (no preservatives!), use 2 gallons to heat up the cherries and hold the rest in the fridge until you're ready.  When you are ready, use the cold cider to quickly cool the heated cherry/cider juice down to pitching temperature.  This is my preferred method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Add the cherries after primary fermentation.  You have a slightly higher chance of infection, but the high ABV of ciders usually rule that out.  This method can potentially get you a more pronounced cherry flavor and aroma.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2462/preparing-cherries-for-secondary&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chocolate is pretty simple since you're making cider.  You aren't using specialty malts (although now I want to try that), so really it's just adding cacao nibs.  Break them up, soak them in vodka (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/67/when-brewing-a-chocolate-stout-should-the-cacao-nibs-be-added-in-the-boil-the-s&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for more), and dump them in the fermenter.  I do not believe you would need to boil the nibs.  Boiling is usually recommended for cocoa powder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note:  Cherry + chocolate + apple = a flavor I can't form in my head.  I'd like to know how this tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T17:29:58.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5093" CreationDate="2011-09-12T18:26:09.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have yet to have an infected batch so I cannot really comment too much on the problems of unconverted starch in your beer. However, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bodensatz.com/staticpages/index.php?page=Grains&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt; is quite interesting. There are two tables provided giving data on the use of adjuncts/unmalted grains and malted grains.&#xA;The author has a little rant about the evils of starch and that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;With the exception of Roasted Barley these grains must absolutely be mashed with enzymatic grains in order to convert their starches to sugars. Do not under any circumstances use these without doing so.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Starch bad. Sugar good.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scary stuff, but I do get the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T18:26:09.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5105" CreationDate="2011-09-12T20:29:04.690" Score="5" ViewCount="1286" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does one get more malt aroma out of a recipe? &#xA; If I want more roasty aroma I know I can add more roasted malt.  But eventually, there is appoint where I can't have too much or the recipe itself suffers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any process steps to be taken that can increase maltiness, toastiness, etc etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T01:46:08.000" Title="Increasing Malt Aroma" Tags="|beer|malt|aroma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5101" CreationDate="2011-09-12T20:53:09.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.promash.com/tipsntricks/CommonTasks/MechOfNoSparge.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;No-sparge&lt;/a&gt; is one approach, the lack of sparge creates richer malt flavors. Another is to use malts that boost malt aroma: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Aromatic_malt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Aromatic Malt&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com/melanoidin-malt/226&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Melanoidin Malt&lt;/a&gt;, etc. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Decoction_mash&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Decoction Mashing&lt;/a&gt; can boost malt flavors, although I've never tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some yeast strains are better than others at producing maltiness. I recently did a split batch of four English yeast strains (Wyeast 1968, 1338, 1318 and 1187). All created very different malt flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, proper treatment of the finished beer helps. Aromas will dissipate and flavors will oxidize if the beer is treated roughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T20:53:09.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5081" CreationDate="2011-09-13T01:11:10.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing stopping you from putting an airlock on top of your starter so you can see some bubbles... give that a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="803" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T01:11:10.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2548" CreationDate="2011-09-13T09:52:42.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Excellent advice has already been given. I would only add, take your time, don't rush, start as early as you can so you don't feel pressured by time. And, like the carpentry adage of 'measure twice, cut once', check everything carefully - though, sometimes, mistakes can produce surprisingly good results! Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T09:52:42.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5101" CreationDate="2011-09-13T11:56:51.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get more malt flavour and aroma to come through by substituting some of the base malt with munich. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to no-sparge, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Parti-gyle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;partigyle&lt;/a&gt; brewing will create a rich malty brew from the first runnings, but you get better utilization of the grain compared to no-sparge, since there is also the second runnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other alternatives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add chlorides (50-100ppm) to emphasize the malt character (and correspondingly reduce sulphates to lessen the hop character)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use less hops to avoid masking the malt flavour and aroma&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a yeast strain that is known to produce malty beers, such as Scottish Ale and Munich Lager yeasts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These changes have to be made with the target style in mind and probably work best with malt-forward styles to avoid going out of style. But not that it matters so much, you'll still end up with a tasty brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T01:46:08.000" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T01:46:08.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3050" CreationDate="2011-09-13T12:40:07.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The revised recipe after Denny's advice looks very good. If you want a really smooth oatmeal stout, you can leave out the biscuit malt and replace with flaked barley (1lb - this is more than the biscuit, so you're OG will be a touch higher), the flaked barley will round out and improve head retention. You may want to up the IBUs just a touch to 36-39 by adding 0.25oz more bittering hops, since the extracts leave residual sweetness that needs balancing out. I've not used NeoBritannia, but some report it finishes high, (another reason for using slightly more bittering hops) so try keep your mash temperature around 150F to make it more fermentable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T12:40:07.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5111" CreationDate="2011-09-13T15:59:26.993" Score="6" ViewCount="441" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using whole, wet hops (or maybe even dried for that matter), is there any &lt;em&gt;disadvantage&lt;/em&gt; to splitting the cones in half?  Is there any data available to support splitting them in the first place, such as a stronger aroma in the finished beer?  I believe that the increased surface area would be preferred when dry hopping, but every picture I see of this has intact hops.  For the purpose of the question, assume that they are split by latex gloved hand or with a sanitized knife and dropped directly into the kettle or fermenter less than a minute later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T17:26:14.587" Title="Splitting whole hops in half" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5108" CreationDate="2011-09-13T16:26:23.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no disadvantage, other than you're wasting your time.  There is nothing to be gained by splitting them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T16:26:23.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5108" CreationDate="2011-09-13T17:20:33.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe splitting them in half won't do much good, but chopping them up into a lot smaller bits might. After all, this is why hop utilization of pellets if higher than whole hops- you are increasing the surface area amenable to the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I say &quot;smaller bits&quot; this probably does have to be quite small. If you are going to do this, you might as well use pellets unless you are particularly attached to grinding whole hops (maybe they are your homegrown hops?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reckon the disadvantages would be that you are going have lots of undissolved pieces of hop flower in your brew and it's a lot of work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-09-13T17:22:40.600" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T17:22:40.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5108" CreationDate="2011-09-13T17:26:14.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no significant advantage to do this as far as I can see.  Here is my reasoning:  When you account for using pellets vs. whole hops we typically only consider it a 10% utilization gain.  Pellets are completely pulverized and you only get a 10% increase.  Slicing hops in half or even quarters you'd be looking at probably less than 2-5% increase, still not at pellet levels.  And you'll probably lose that increase by getting the lupulin glands all over your hand, knife or scissors when you cut them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T17:26:14.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5113" CreationDate="2011-09-13T20:15:31.067" Score="7" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I crack or grind coriander for a steep at the end of a boil, will it settle out or should I pour through a strainer when transferring to to primary?  Should I add before or after flameout?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1655" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T21:10:28.183" Title="Coriander steep technique" Tags="|beer|spices|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5112" CreationDate="2011-09-13T21:10:28.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I normally just add coriander in the last 5-10 minutes of the boil.  I usually crack it.  Most of it will simply precipitate to the bottom.  By the time you are done transferring from the boil pot and then out of the primary those bits are gone.  That's been my experience anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T21:10:28.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5116" CreationDate="2011-09-14T00:46:24.277" Score="6" ViewCount="1222" Body="&lt;p&gt;While racking beer to kegs today, my autosiphon started leaking air.  Bubbles started at the bottom, and went throughout the tube.  I assume that this is due to a poor seal between the pump portion and the housing portion of the stiff plastic pump.  Has anyone else had this experience?  Is this a common failure mode for autosiphons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T14:52:41.340" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T00:33:03.653" Title="Autosiphon not sealing" Tags="|beer|equipment|siphon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5120" CreationDate="2011-09-14T01:33:11.443" Score="16" ViewCount="32660" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically what types of beer would you use wet hopping for and how does it affect the flavor/process differently than dry hopping a beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1578" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T08:28:45.260" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T08:28:45.260" Title="What is wet hopping and how does it differ from dry?" Tags="|techniques|dry-hopping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5114" CreationDate="2011-09-14T01:40:36.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your auto-siphon is not making a good seal between the main cylindrical body and the gasket at the bottom of the siphon tube.  This may be due to debris on the rubber gasket, which would mean a cleaning could get you back in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Completely remove the inner siphon tube from the main body by pulling the tube up, out of the top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Examine/clean the seal, which is typically a black rubber 'ring' at the bottom of the siphon tube.  You might put a small bit of keg lube on it, if you have it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the seal is beyond repair, you might be able to find a replacement seal, but my quick search a few moments ago didn't turn up a good result.  I'll come back and edit this if someone finds one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the unit is taken apart, look for hairline fractures in the siphon tube.  If that's the problem, you can buy a replacement siphon tube with new seal (rather than the entirely new auto-siphon).  I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/replacement-center-tube-seal-for-5-16-auto-siphon.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Midwest Supplies&quot;&gt;this example&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the possibility that what you're seeing is not air being pulled-in through a leak in the gasket or a crack, but indeed just CO2 that's coming out of solution due to a disturbance (credit @brewchez for this idea).  I'd look really closely at where those bubbles originate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2011-09-16T00:33:03.653" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T00:33:03.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5114" CreationDate="2011-09-14T01:50:30.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gone through 3 of these, and at least one failed because of the leaky gasket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It often happens when the cane is pulled out of the housing quite far, and the cane is not in the same line as the main body. See if pushing the cane back into the main body helps, since it's then a lot harder to move the cane out of alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T01:50:30.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-14T02:56:16.327" Score="7" ViewCount="4747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to brew a pale ale with rosemary and am looking for the right technique.  I've read various techniques from adding it late in the boil to adding it in the secondary.  What technique have you had the best success with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much should I use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fresh or dried?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When should I add it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long should I leave it in for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:20:43.620" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:20:43.620" Title="What's the best technique to add rosemary to a beer?" Tags="|beer|spices|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5121" CreationDate="2011-09-14T03:25:25.700" Score="5" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost two weeks since brew day, hydrometer with the same reading everyday so I guess Sunday will be the bottling day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried a bit of the beer after taking out some for measurement purposes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first batch is a dry brown ale and I asked for non too american hoppy flavor, I do not like it very much (I'm a spaniard living in SF so IPA aroma is driving me crazy xD)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that the beer is very bitter, sourness has almost disappeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How the flavors change during aging in the bottle? Is the a way to do this bitterness lighter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'll be ok with this beer, but maybe my partners are expecting kind a malty, sweet result.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1695" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T15:09:55.057" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T15:09:55.057" Title="Modifying flavors during bottling?" Tags="|bottling|flavor|bottle-conditioning|bitterness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5115" CreationDate="2011-09-14T10:57:38.573" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wet hopping is adding fresh hops to the fermentor to impart flavor and aroma to the finished beer. The principles are the same as for dry hopping - the hops are added to secondary (or to primary after fermentation is complete) 3-5 days before racking. The main difference is the hops are fresh, i.e. &quot;wet&quot; - the freshness gives a more vibrant aroma and cleaner flavour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fresh hops weigh 4-6 times more than their dry counterpart, so this needs to be taken into account when weighing. For example, if you normally dry hop with 1/2oz, then you'll need to wet hop with around 2-3oz of fresh hops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Introducing spoilage organisms into the beer from fresh hops is unlikely, especially when added after (primary) fermentation is complete. Even so, you may want to put the hops in the freezer overnight to kill any pests, although this makes them slightly less fresh. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With fresh hops, the most desirable qualities that distinguish them from dry hops are the freshness of the volatile oils. This makes them best suited to flavoring and aroma additions, which also means there is less need to worry about the IBUs, since they contribute relatively little bitterness compared to the bittering additions. When using fresh hops in the kettle, remember that they contain a lot of water, which will be added to your wort. If you want to hit your SG on the mark, you'll need to compensate for the water added. Assuming wet hops weigh 5 times more than dry, then 4/5s of that weight is water. For example, 2oz of dry hops is 10oz when wet. Since 2oz of the wet hops is hop matter, the remaning 8oz is water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T10:57:38.573" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5119" CreationDate="2011-09-14T14:49:01.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hop bitterness will decrease somewhat as the beer ages and will also smooth out to a degree.  The dryer the beer is the more the bitterness is going to come through because there isn't much sweetness to balance the bitterness.  There isn't much you can do with the beer at this point other than possibly blending it with a less hoppy or sweeter beer before bottling.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the future if you want to decrease the bitterness you will have to decrease the quantity of the bittering hop addition(60 minute addition) or use hops with lower alpha acid percentages.  You can also increase the amount of crystal malts used to increase the nonfermentable sugars.  Using a less attenuative yeast strain could also leave the beer sweeter in the finish balancing the hop bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T14:49:01.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5114" CreationDate="2011-09-14T14:57:28.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If its a leaky seal its a leaky seal, but I'll offer a different perspective when I thought I had the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that I actually get some &quot;cavitation&quot; in the siphon that I think is from dissolved CO2 coming out of solution.  I used to have the bigger bore autosiphon, and that issue went away with a more normal 3/8th inch autosiphon.  So you might not have a leak it could just be a build of of CO2 coming out of solution.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to buy a new siphon you can try and lessen the strength of the &quot;pull&quot; to limit the turbulence that leads to cavitation.  If its pulling to hard you may want to adjust the height differential between the two vessles being transferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T14:57:28.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5115" CreationDate="2011-09-14T15:06:24.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops are normally picked from the bines (yes with a 'b') and quickly brought to a processing facility where they are dried in a controlled environment.  The hops are then vacuum packed and set out whole or further shipped out for pelletization.  These are all dried hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term wet hopping is used to describe hops that are picked, and in the same short order, brought to the brew house and used.  Generally that happens same day as picking or the next day.  Wet (fresh) hops are very perishable...which is why they usually get dried for storage reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping is a technique term that normally describes the process of adding hops (wet or dried) to finished beer.  Many breweries that have access to &quot;wet&quot; hops will indeed dry hop the finished beer as well as use them in the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There aren't any limits to using wet hops if you have a supply of fresh/wet hops put them in any beer you like and see what the results are.&#xA;The types of beer that use wet hops are typically are pale ales and IPAs.  Any style that is hop forward and where you want hop character to shine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T15:06:24.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-15T14:58:45.477" Score="10" ViewCount="4930" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two months ago I brewed an ale with three hops - cascade, northern brewer and saaz. I immediately put them in the freezer, but want to know how to best use them (if there has been any degredation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, preferably (to make this a complete guide) I'd like answers to the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does freezing effect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aroma potential&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bittering potential&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flavor potential&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in the following forms of hops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plug&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pellet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hops were whole, and frozen 30 minutes after opening the vacuum bag (in the same bag, but no longer with vacuum). I've read that I should add 30% extra bittering hops. Does flavor/aroma potential degrade more/less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a similar question on this site, but it asks what the &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; way to store opened hops is, but not if the effect of storage is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-09-15T19:25:00.990" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T21:06:48.567" Title="What are the effects of storing hops in the freezer?" Tags="|hops|storage|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5124" CreationDate="2011-09-15T15:51:19.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The freezer greatly slows degradation of the hops.  I've never experienced any negative effects from storing hops in the freezer.  It's the preferred method of storage.  The absolute best thing you can do is vacuum seal them before storing them in the freezer.  Barring that, using a resealable bag that you remove as much air as possible from will work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T15:51:19.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5124" CreationDate="2011-09-15T19:30:29.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You questions are good ones, unfortunately the effect of storage is somewhat variety dependent.  Some hops store better than others, so there is no definative answer there.  I will say that the effect is not broken into aroma, flavor or bittering either, seeing how its all based on the storage effect on the gland of the hop.  Aroma, flavor and bittering all come from the same place, its the boil time that really determine what you are getting from the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, there may be some statistics out there that give the degradation rate of each variety under certain storage conditions.  I haven't seen a clear chart or table with that data though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have stored hops in the opened mylar bag I got them in wrapped in a sealed ziploc in the freezer for a couple years and not really noticed a huge change in bittering potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;30% figure seems high, but its time dependent too.   The hops slowly loose their alpha potential with time.  A month later you probably don't notice the change, a year later...maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T19:30:29.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1953" CreationDate="2011-09-16T00:44:51.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the plus (sort of), although lots of these methods are known, they are not used very much (at least by folks who I've watched brew).  Which means (to me), they have a reduced chance of winning anything.  In other words, the number of entries is reduced, so the number of winners is likewise reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the minus, a friend of mine just decided it was late, didn't want to chill, and the next day decided to throw-out the batch because it stunk.  So no-chill, for instance, scares me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T00:44:51.857" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-16T00:44:51.857" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1561" CreationDate="2011-09-16T00:47:30.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ever go to Mexico, you can get some vanilla extract, that itself has a pretty high alcohol content, for really cheap.  Just a '0' vote comment, if you're still reading about vanilla.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T00:47:30.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5132" CreationDate="2011-09-16T02:32:55.273" Score="6" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to use whole, lightly crushed spices for a pumpkin ale.  I have (so far) had no luck finding a good recipe for the mix.  While the ingredients themselves are up to personal taste (cinnamon, nutmeg, mace, clove, allspice, etc.) all of the mixes and ratios I have been able to find are for &quot;ground&quot; spices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience in this arena that would be willing to share their mix/ratios?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1716" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T18:04:50.243" Title="Homemade Pumpkin Spice (whole spice)" Tags="|spices|pumpkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5135" CreationDate="2011-09-16T06:07:01.400" Score="7" ViewCount="6507" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I juice tart apples (cored and peeled, centrifugal planer type juicer), I get cloudy juice and lots of mealy foam on top. The bubbles are tough. They last for days and I can freeze the foam. What's in the foam and what would it bring to the fermentation? Is there more or less sugar in there compared to the juice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1693" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-09-18T07:26:02.053" LastActivityDate="2011-09-18T07:26:02.053" Title="Cider apples: what's in the foam on top of my juice?" Tags="|cider|krausen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-16T06:29:54.280" Score="6" ViewCount="1327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put 5 oranges into my first 5 gallon mead and after 3 weeks it tastes overpoweringly like grapefruit. I don't like grapefruit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 10 days, I racked 2 gallons into a carboy with 2 lb of mulberry (no acid in mulberry) and that batch is very much drinkable now. The other 3 gallons was racked to a separate carboy where it now has an inch of sediment, plus powerful grapefruit aroma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the citrusy batch get less acid over time, or can I do something to it? Could I add honey without the yeast eating it all? I'd like it to be sweeter, to mask or neutralize the citrus, but not as fruity as the mulberry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast was 5 mg Red Star Cote des Blancs and it worked fast (5 days.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pH of each batch is now 3.5 or 4, and SG is 1.00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1693" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T21:33:54.270" Title="How to correct Mead with too much citrus?" Tags="|fruit|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5129" CreationDate="2011-09-16T11:47:28.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume just like in cooking you'd want to break up and grind whole spices a bit anyway to release their oils.  Purchase your spices of choice whole then grind what you need for the best effect in the beer. I don't think you'd get as much punch using the spices whole regardless of ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T11:47:28.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1953" CreationDate="2011-09-16T15:39:04.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have recently started using the olive oil aeration substitute based on an article I read on the Winning Homebrew website.  There was a trial of the method conducted by New Belgium brewery (Information for this article was taken from the paper Olive Oil Addition to Yeast as an Alternative to Wort Aeration Grady Hull-New Belgium Brewing Company, Fort Collins, CO USA 9/26/05).  Other sources are listed.  We used the method on an Alt beer and a English Mild.  Both were very good.  We have an Imperial Stout and a rye IPA in fermentation now, and all is going well.  We had a quick start to the fermentation, less than 24 hours, and what seems to me longer fermentations, but I will have to watch and verify that.  With only two batches complete, I can't really comment on effects on FG.  We were hesitant to add oil to our beer, but the amount is miniscule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1648" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T15:39:04.263" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-16T15:39:04.263" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1953" CreationDate="2011-09-16T16:24:46.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have won three ribbons using the no-chill method at 2 local AHA/BJCP events. There are some guides out there on how to do it properly and if they are followed the beer can be just as good as chilled. I do not use no-chill for IPA's or other beers with a lot of late hop additions, but others do no-chill IPAs and are happy with their results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T16:24:46.623" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-16T16:24:46.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5130" CreationDate="2011-09-16T17:57:09.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The foam contains residual particles from the juicing process (I use a centrifugal juicer as well when I do my pear and cactus pear ciders), that have a fair amount of pectin in them. The best way that I know how to remove it (and help the final clarity of your brew) is to skim it with a strainer. A hand strainer works, I have used a grease splash screen that fits over the top of my pitching bucket in the past as well. What little sugars that are in the foam are not going to contribute significantly to the final alcohol content (did my my own experiment to test this in early brewing batches). The juice contains most of the fermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T17:57:09.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5129" CreationDate="2011-09-16T18:04:50.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your desire to use the whole spices is to reduce the cloudiness, I'd use a small brew sack with the ground spices in it. You'll get better flavor extraction because of the greater surface area in the fine ground spices, and the spices are easily removed. I use canned pumpkin spice from the baking section at the grocery store that has been tied up in a portion of brew sock material (instead of mixing the individual ground spices). Just finished my last bottle of pumpkin spice cider this week and it aged very well. Oh, and heat the spice in the bag in a microwave for about 10 seconds, this volatilizes the oils and you get a better flavor extraction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T18:04:50.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5131" CreationDate="2011-09-16T20:49:35.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the best thing to do now is to blend it against a neutral/standard mead to your tastes.  You can't really fix these things once they are made, IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T20:49:35.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5140" CreationDate="2011-09-16T21:18:05.207" Score="13" ViewCount="11174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often see recipes (usually for fruit mead or beer) warning against boiling fruit for fear that it will release pectin. I know that this is important for making jam, and bad for home brewing. What I don't quite know is &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; it's a bad thing. Does pectin have a negative impact on the fermentation process? Is it bad for yeast? Does it negatively affect flavour? Does it affect aging? Why is it so important to avoid pectin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T08:44:22.870" Title="Effects of pectin" Tags="|fermentation|process|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5131" CreationDate="2011-09-16T21:33:54.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time is your friend.  The flavor will never go away completely but it will mellow a bit with age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding honey as you suggest could possibly balance out the grapefruit with more sweetness but it will not get rid of the grapefruit flavor.  If you still have viable yeast they will go to work on the new sugars and assuming they have enough O2 they will propagate.  You can sorbate to prevent that.  Or you can keep adding honey over time until the alcohol content has outstripped your yeast's ability to survive. Cote des Blancs can survive up to 14% ABV.  When I add honey to my mead to back sweeten I usually age for at least 6 months after the addition to allow time for the flavors to blend and even out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1716" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T21:33:54.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5138" CreationDate="2011-09-16T22:57:12.787" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pectin causes a really strong haze.  Of course if you have &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of pectin you can get some gummy residues or globs, but these settle out.  Pectin haze tends to be tough to get rid of even with cold temps and aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, if you are making a cloudy-style wheat beer that you want to add fruit to, worrying about the pectin haze is a but overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T00:02:20.117" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T00:02:20.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="314" CreationDate="2011-09-17T06:57:48.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed two different ones (both ciders) and they were hits. So, yes you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T06:57:48.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5147" CreationDate="2011-09-17T17:10:40.523" Score="7" ViewCount="2904" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so I understand the intent of the cold pack when shipping liquid yeast during very warm climates, but I assume that the useful cooling offered is very minimal compared to the temperature variations that might occur during transport from HBS to my house (which in my case would be a 2-3 day trip). The cost of some of the packs is minimal while others represent over half the cost of the yeast. I had always considered the cost &quot;cheap&quot; insurance, but the more I think about it, the more I wonder how beneficial they really are compared to their cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts about this topic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T18:35:20.283" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T13:01:05.667" Title="Are yeast &quot;cold packs&quot; really worth the extra cost?" Tags="|yeast|shipping|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5142" CreationDate="2011-09-17T17:32:06.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that you are talking about liquid yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I regularly order liquid yeast that goes from the UK -&gt; Spain and I have never used a cold pack. So far, I have had no problems with this yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to use dry yeast which I imagine is more robust to temperature changes since it is dehydrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-09-17T18:18:51.183" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T18:18:51.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5145" CreationDate="2011-09-17T19:27:53.123" Score="1" ViewCount="2004" Body="&lt;p&gt;My intent is not to start an emotional series of responses, but rather to understand the general feelings about recipe kits from Northern Brewer and Midwest. Personally, I have had good luck with Northern Brewer kits in the past, but, in some cases, Midwest has styles that I would like to try that I can't get from Norther Brewer. I'm interested in hearing about the differences between the two from brewers who have a good deal of experience with both suppliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T00:59:44.277" Title="Northern Brewer or Midwest Supplies kits?" Tags="|kits|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-10-14T03:06:43.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5144" CreationDate="2011-09-17T20:28:58.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak to Midwest, but I know NB has some good recipe kits because I developed them for them.  I can personally vouch for those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-09-18T16:34:57.117" LastActivityDate="2011-09-18T16:34:57.117" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-10-14T03:06:43.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5138" CreationDate="2011-09-17T22:01:01.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even the clarity issue isn't a big thing, given the methods that can be used to clarify your brew. I think that the maximum flavor extraction outweighs the relatively minor clarity issue, IMHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T22:01:01.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5142" CreationDate="2011-09-17T22:04:31.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are shipping only 2-3 days, I really think that the yeast loss would be minimal if shipped without the cold pack. Remember that yeast exist at ambient temperature in nature, after all :-) Any loss would be minimized by doing a starter before pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T22:04:31.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5150" CreationDate="2011-09-18T11:49:26.163" Score="5" ViewCount="25311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of formulating a recipe for my first IPA, but there is an extremely wide range of bitterness on most scales - something like 40 - 120. I have no idea if I like beer in the lower or upper range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently drank Brooklyn IPA 7%, which is the freshest IPA in my memory right now. Approximately in what part of the range is that beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T15:25:39.757" Title="What number of IBU is standard for some commercial IPAs?" Tags="|ipa|ibu|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5148" CreationDate="2011-09-18T14:00:28.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;American IPAs are supposed to have from 40-70 IBUs. Many commercial examples stick to the lower end of this spectrum, Brooklyn IPA has 45 IBUs for instance. IPAs with lower IBUs (40-50) are more likely to do better commercially since most people don't like crazy amounts of hoppiness in their beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, many beers do well on the higher end of this spectrum. Dogfish Head's 60 Minute IPA has 60 IBUs (fitting), Bear Republic's Racer 5 has 75, and Stone's IPA has 77.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that IPAs are not just about bitterness, you also want the right flavor and aroma from your hops as well. Bell's Two Hearted Ale is not extremely bitter, but is well regarded in the style because it has good hop aroma and taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say your best bet is to run to your local beer store and pick up a variety of IPAs to do some research. Many breweries will list the IBUs either on the bottle or on their website. Taste a few of them and decide just how bitter you want your final beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final note: Some beers venture into the 80+ range for IBUs but that is generally seen in double or imperial IPAs where there is more malt to balance out the bitterness. If you plan on making a 7% beer I would stick between 40-70 unless you REALLY like bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-09-18T14:00:28.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5148" CreationDate="2011-09-18T16:34:25.060" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that published &quot;standards&quot; have little to do with commercial beer.  The BJCP guidelines that most of us know are are for comparing one beer to another in a homebrew comp.  They have little to no bearing on the commercial beer world, where the brewers can call their beers whatever they like and brew them however they want to.  So, there's really no way of categorizing the hop level of commercial IPAs.  Some, like Alexander Keith's IPA, are so low that you can't even really believe it's an IPA.  Others are so high that you may find the beer undrinkable.  If you're trying to make your own, I suggest you find an IPA that has the IBU number available and see what you think of it.  Another useful concept that will help you is BU:GU ratio.  That's Bittering Units:Gravity Units.  Personally, for IPAs I like at least a 1:1 ratio....that would mean 70 IBU for a 1.070 beer.  By trying different beers and noting their BU:GU ratio, you should be able to come up with a number that fits your tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-09-18T16:34:25.060" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5144" CreationDate="2011-09-18T17:22:23.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used Northern but have heard good things. &#xA;Midwest is great. The have good kits and great service. I am a newbie and they have been very helpful. I have called them a few times with a question, and they did not not hesitate to answer. They also accidentally sent the wrong yeast, I emailed them and they sent the correct one to me with no questions asked. I would reccomend them... but you would probably be fine with both!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1532" LastActivityDate="2011-09-18T17:22:23.933" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-10-14T03:06:43.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-18T18:02:14.393" Score="6" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago, I pulled some of an IPA I was making and force carbonated it so my friend and I could try some. While it was not the bitterest I have tasted, it was definitely an IPA. I bottled the next day. I tried a bottle last night after it's been in for about two weeks. I couldn't taste any hops at all. It was still a delicious beer, but it tasted a lot more like an amber than an IPA. &lt;strong&gt;What process could happen inside the bottle that could cause practically all the hop flavor in a beer to dissipate, and how could this be prevented in the future?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T18:45:37.200" Title="Where did the hops go?" Tags="|beer|hops|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5152" CreationDate="2011-09-18T18:33:21.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hm. Hop flavor will degrade over time but usually it takes a few months or more, not a couple of weeks. Hop bitterness will degrade as well, but it takes much longer, with about 75% of bitterness intact after a year. That being said, I'm guessing there are other factors at play here, not just degradation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What temperature did you try these beers at? Temp can greatly influence taste, and if the beer you pulled off was warm while the bottled beer was cold, it could seem like the bottled beer had less flavor. This is the only thing I can think of offhand, it might also be good to post you recipe so we can troubleshoot it better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-09-18T18:33:21.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5152" CreationDate="2011-09-18T18:37:09.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a potential answer to your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/61/should-hoppy-beers-be-aged&quot;&gt;should hoppy beers be aged?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what temperature did you store the bottles? Isomerization of the alphas (the source of the hop bittering) is definitely the most likely culprit in this case. Hoppy beers in general need to be kept cold (well under 70F) to maintain the bite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-09-18T18:37:09.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5156" CreationDate="2011-09-18T20:02:52.950" Score="8" ViewCount="15031" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I pitched a cider and the yeast blitzed through the batch in 48 hours (SG=1.050, FG=1.000). I noticed that the temperature went from 72F to over 76F during the fermentation (I really don't have a way to control the temperature of the carboy, the room temperature was 70F). So, my question is, how does the accelerated fermentation effect the taste of a brew? I sampled the final product and it seems to be ok, about what I would expect before bottle conditioning for at least a couple of weeks. Any expression of past experiences from the brewmeisters here would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A followup question to the two of you (JS and DC). I use premier cuvee or cote des blanc yeast for my ciders. Any suggestions for optimal temperature ranges specifically for ciders? I figured out that I could use a water bath to use the heat capacity to control the temperature better (I have VERY little space to work in) with cold packs tossed in, but wonder how low is too low?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-11-01T01:19:31.857" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T16:56:52.983" Title="Fast versus Slow Fermentation" Tags="|cider|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5155" CreationDate="2011-09-18T21:16:58.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cider is a lot like white wine. The cooler and slower you can ferment it, the more of the delicate aromatics you will preserve for the final product.  A warm, fast fermentation will result in the blowing off of CO2 at a rapid rate, and it will take aromatics with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even still, I'm sure your cider will be quite good if the fermentation was healthy and the yeast didn't throw sulfur smells into it. If you have the room, you might want to let the cider bulk age for a while before you bottle it.  Rack it into a smaller carboy with little-to-no headspace and leave it there for a few months. When you bottle it, you might need to pitch more yeast, but you can use a cheap champagne or clean ale yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T16:56:52.983" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T16:56:52.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5155" CreationDate="2011-09-18T21:20:23.203" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The accelerated fermentation won't affect the flavor, but the elevated temps that caused the fast fermentation might.  Higher fermentation temps promote the formation of fusel alcohols, which can give nail polish remover or airplane glue flavors and aromas, as well as lead to headache inducing hangovers.  You may get lucky and not get those flavors in this batch, but fermentation temp control is the single biggest thing you can to to ensure quality beer, wine, or cider.  You can start with a great recipe and quality ingredients, but if you can't control the fermentation temp those advantages will be lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-09-18T21:20:23.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5118" CreationDate="2011-09-19T02:17:49.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never brewed with rosemary, but please allow me to offer my thoughts - I use it a often in the kitchen, and also as essential oil for aroma in the home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aroma of the essential oil when heated combines well with citric fruit aromas, so I imagine it would work well with citrussy hops, Cascades being the obvious choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using fresh only, since the flavor and aroma are more delicate than when dried. Even so, the flaour and aroma are quite robust - I usually use it in a red wine reduction - about 2 tablespoons of chopped leaves for 4 people, and the aroma and flavor is quite apparent. I doubt you would want more than 4 tablespoons of chopped fresh rosemary leaves in a 5 gallon batch, so the flavor and aroma are subtle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the same way we etra the flavor and aromatic oils in hops, I would think the oils in rosmary can be extracted by adding late to the boil or &quot;dry herbing&quot; in the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No hard facts here, just conjecture. It would be interesting to hear how your expriment compares to what I write here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T02:17:49.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-19T08:10:09.443" Score="4" ViewCount="10431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm mashing a small quantity (~3 buckets) of grapes to make wine. I haven't any special equipment, and don't really want to buy any. What should I do to mash the grapes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1727" OwnerDisplayName="fredley" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T19:01:03.380" Title="How should I mash my grapes?" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5159" CreationDate="2011-09-19T09:05:01.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wash the grapes, pour them in a large tub and you can mash them with your bare feet. It takes quite some time though. Afterwards, put everything through a large strainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to go that old-fashioned, you can always do it like you do when you're making jam. Put some washed grapes in a large, clean towel and squeeze (or push on it with any piece of hard equipment, since grapes are tougher than berries).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Mien" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T09:05:01.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5159" CreationDate="2011-09-19T12:24:57.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IF this is something you want to do on an ongoing basis the &quot;right equipment&quot; for this task is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=grape+press&amp;amp;x=0&amp;amp;y=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fruit/wine press&lt;/a&gt; available from amazon or other retailers. These come in a range of prices from a simple tortilla press that can be re-purposed to several hundred dollars (US).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1726" OwnerDisplayName="Cos Callis" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T12:24:57.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5159" CreationDate="2011-09-19T13:31:29.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what I did last year, and while it works the &lt;a href=&quot;https://cooking.stackexchange.com/questions/17847/how-should-i-mash-my-grapes/17850#17850&quot;&gt;wine press&lt;/a&gt; would be a lot easier.  It also costs more money.  According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2020/wiki-what-extra-equipment-do-i-need-to-make-wine/2040#2040&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; you may be able to rent a wine press, which may fit your needs if you are only doing this once after you read my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I softened up the grapes by putting them in the bowl of my stand mixer and running it with the flat beater for a few minutes.  Then I gave them to my spouse, who squeezed them by hand using a cheese cloth.  We were making a white, so we did not put the skins in the must.  Our grapes were scuppernog, which are very acidic, and we ended up using latex gloves towards the end because the acidity really hurt our hands.  We did about 26 lbs of grapes in about 3 hours - it was a long and not terribly fun process.  It took a few cheese cloths.  Oh, and we're never doing it again largely because of the initial mashing and mixing steps.  But it did work and we did get drinkable wine out of it.  If you like that sort of thing it is an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, you'll get some good answers on &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;Homebrew.SE&lt;/a&gt; for brewing specific questions.  Crushing grapes has more culinary applications than just wine, but the rest of your process will fit best there.  Check out their &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/wine&quot;&gt;wine&lt;/a&gt; tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="justkt" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T13:31:29.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5159" CreationDate="2011-09-19T16:57:47.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had to crush grapes, but I think that my knowledge of soil compaction might be useful here :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crush a thin layer at a time.  If you're working with too much, it'll just move to the side rather than get smashed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use something that's not too broad for the crushing, as a larger head requires more force to get the same pressure over its area.  Think of a large mortar &amp;amp; pestle -- either your feet, as has already been mentioned, or maybe a baseball bat (wooden, not alumninum).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although a soil tamper &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; work, I'd be afraid of using one, both for cleanliness (yes, I know feet are the alternative), but they tend to be iron and I'd be concerned about keeping it in an acid for a long time.  The important thing about soil tampers is that you let the weight of it work for you ... you lift, and let it drop.  You might add a little bit of help as it's dropping, but you don't want to be doing it so much that you tire yourself out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to be doing larger batches, I'd look for places in your area that sell wine making or brewing supplies.  It might be that they have a press that they rent time on, or might be able to put you in touch with someone who does.  If you're doing larger batches, you might try asking local wineries, but I know in my area that zoning for wineries is pretty stupid (they have to be on industrial zoned land to offer a service to others; if they're on agriculturally zoned land, they can only process stuff grown on that property)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Joe" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T16:57:47.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5159" CreationDate="2011-09-19T18:03:07.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that some brew-on-premises stores will lend out or rent out wine presses.  It might be worth a few phone calls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T18:03:07.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5142" CreationDate="2011-09-19T18:04:24.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can offer this as anecdotal evidence.  I did recently order 2 kits from Northern Brewer with 2 smack packs of yeast.  I ordered 2 cold packs.  I used their standard shipping, and it took about 5 or 6 days to arrive in Texas, where we were in the middle of weeks of 100+ degree weather.  The packs were no longer cold by the time our shipment arrived.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a starter from one smack pack immediately, and it worked out fine.  The other, which I'd refrigerated immediately, I smacked about a week later, and it never puffed up.  I suspect the prolonged exposure to the heat was the problem, but I cannot say that I know for sure.  Since then, we've decided to order dry yeast only during the summer months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1037" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T18:04:24.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5152" CreationDate="2011-09-19T18:45:37.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that with hoppy beers, that &quot;flavor&quot; is really an aroma most of the time. The only way I've had any luck getting any sort of hoppy aroma is by dry hopping. Add an ounce for the last week before bottling and you'll be surprised how much the flavor profile changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T18:45:37.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5144" CreationDate="2011-09-19T18:51:43.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had great luck with NB's kits - specifically the Paterbier (a wonderful little beer), the Caribou Slobber (brown), the petite saison and the Innkeeper (British bitter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T18:51:43.637" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-10-14T03:06:43.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5159" CreationDate="2011-09-19T19:01:03.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most interesting &quot;press&quot; that I saw was a pickle bucket with a hole in the side at the bottom, with the lid trimmed to slide into the bucket. A hydraulic car jack was used to press the lid down on the grapes to extract the juice. Much cheaper than a regular press, and I suspect that you could just stand on the lid and get the same effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T19:01:03.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5172" CreationDate="2011-09-20T01:33:40.287" Score="5" ViewCount="3733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use recipe kits to brew five gallon batches of homebrew and would like to purchase a kit and keep it around during the winter to have when we are snowbound. My question is how long will they be good and what about the yeast in the kits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T12:24:43.507" Title="How long will recipe kits with the yeast keep fresh?" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5174" CreationDate="2011-09-20T02:24:36.320" Score="5" ViewCount="9485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a commercially filled growler today, and it doesn't appear to have the plastic &quot;growler&quot; lid that I usually get when getting one filled at a taproom or beer store.   It has a thin metal screw-on cap instead.   In my experience the plastic lids will only hold carbonation for &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; up to 3 days, and usually quite a bit less.   I don't know whether to expect the same results with a metal lid, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to drink this beer tomorrow, or can I wait for the weekend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T03:01:43.733" Title="How long will carbonation &quot;hold&quot; in a growler?" Tags="|carbonation|growlers|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5170" CreationDate="2011-09-20T03:32:38.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with metal caps is similar to yours with plastic.  If you screw them on tight when you fill them, they might stay carbonated 3 days.  Once you open them you only have a day or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="738" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T03:32:38.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5169" CreationDate="2011-09-20T04:02:19.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, all the ingredients in the kit will keep well, although you should take them all out and store them specifically so that they last the longest. Kits generally use dry yeast which can keep for very long (6+ months) at room temperature and longer if you put them in the fridge. If the kit has hop pellets in it or whole hops, make sure they are in an airtight bag. Then just throw them in the freezer and they will store as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, might I recommend brewing without the kit entirely? All you need is some malt extract, hops, and yeast, perhaps a little specialty malt as well if you want it. Liquid extract can be stored in the fridge. Dry extract and uncrushed specialty malts can be stored in a cool, dry place in airtight containers, but not in the fridge or freezer (you don't want any condensation on them). Dry or liquid yeast will stay viable for 6+ months in the fridge, and dry yeast can also be stored in the freezer. Hops should be in vacuum sealed, airtight bags, and can also go into the freezer. Assuming it is all stored correctly this will all keep for 6+ months, however I definitely recommend making a starter for the yeast a day or two before just to check that it is viable and to get good cell counts. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T04:02:19.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5170" CreationDate="2011-09-20T12:22:15.430" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I get commercially filled growlers at the liquor store with metal lids on them and they stay carbed until opened.  I think it just depends on how well the cap is sealed when it gets closed.  I proper lid will keep it carbed until opened.  Even in between openings it should hold its pressure, albeit at a lower lever because you'll lose some everytime you pour it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T12:22:15.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5169" CreationDate="2011-09-20T12:24:43.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can store yeast for 6 months or more at fridge temps.  But you need to invest time and resources into using a starter if you are going to store yeast for much more than a month post its manufacture date to ensure a good start.  (This is not to say that a starter shouldn't be used every time regardless of manufacture date)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T12:24:43.507" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5170" CreationDate="2011-09-20T19:35:03.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local brewpub (Victory) has a counter-pressure filler that manages to keep proper carbonation for (seemingly) indefinitely. Though, admittedly, I haven't waited more than a few weeks between filling and drinking, they insist that it will last for months until opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WrndP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hereforthebeer.com/one-badass-growler-filler/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.hereforthebeer.com/one-badass-growler-filler/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T19:35:03.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4083" CreationDate="2011-09-20T23:38:08.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you bottle in PET (ie &quot;plastic&quot;) bottles, it's easy, even out of the fermentation vessel.  You just squish the bottle until the foam starts overflowing and then tighten the cap.  You can also build a cap with a tire stem built into it, and use a hand-held CO2 thing to fill the bottle, but that's a story for another day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T23:38:08.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5179" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5183" CreationDate="2011-09-21T10:02:27.033" Score="2" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that certain proteins denatured during the wort boil is responsible for causing great, delicious foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I don't get me no foam.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also doing partial boils using extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is twofold: I could boil 10 liters (out of 25) with the hops for ~60 minutes, and then boil an additional 10 liters of malt/water for a shorter time. How long would that shorter time have to be to denature the protein? 5 minutes? 10? 60?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since I am using extract my wort comes preboiled. Does this mean it doesn't matter if I boil all malt or not? Does it mean that I will have worse head retention no matter what, compared to all-grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastEditorUserId="758" LastEditDate="2011-09-21T12:38:10.750" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T18:06:19.503" Title="After how long of a boil will LPT1 and other head retention proteins denature?" Tags="|boil|wort|head-retention|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5142" CreationDate="2011-09-21T13:01:05.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you will be shipping the yeast in the back of your car, you don't need a cold pack.  Just keep the yeast in the cabin of the car and keep things comfortable for you, and the yeast will be happy.  However, I worked one summer in a UPS Warehouse outside of DC.  The trailers I worked in typically were 20-30 degrees hotter than ambient temperature (and the &quot;wonderful&quot; DC humidity).  When I ship yeast from NB between April 15-October 15, I ALWAYS buy one of the cooling packs.  It also helps if your yeast gets loaded onto the wrong truck and spends an extra day or two shipping to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T13:01:05.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5182" CreationDate="2011-09-21T17:47:10.933" Score="11" ViewCount="1906" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I need to maintain my desired temperature until bottling or take it out of the &quot;ferm chamber&quot; after  initial fermentation is done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about with long term brews such as sours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T19:33:15.143" Title="How long do I need to maintain my fermentation temperature?" Tags="|temperature|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5181" CreationDate="2011-09-21T17:59:12.160" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's best to keep it as constant as possible until the primary fermentation is complete.  It can be critical when you are reaching the end of fermentation to adjust the temperature slightly as there is not as much heat being produced from yeast reactions.  If the temperture drops a couple of degrees certain strains of yeast can flocculate too soon leaving the beer under attenuated.  Secondary fermentation temperature is less critical and can be slightly cooler or warmer than primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sour beers the initial fermentation temperature is the most critical as most brett strains will produce more sourness at higher temperatures.  You can see some increased sourness if you age at higher temperatures but not as much as primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T17:59:12.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5179" CreationDate="2011-09-21T18:06:19.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To quote from your own article referenced in BYO, are you sure you don't have an excess of &quot;foam breakers&quot;.   When people don't get enough foam this is usually the culprit.  And that article (which is citing work from another article) does sort of lay out that the denaturing of proteins may or may not be the primary driver of foam formation; and that foam formation and stability are still an area of active research.  Meaning I don't think you'll get a definitive answer for how long you need to boil to get good foam here... unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T18:06:19.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5181" CreationDate="2011-09-21T18:20:04.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say temp control is most critical for the first 72 hours, and then very important for probably a week after that.  At that point, you can start letting the temp rise to make sure the yeast finishes.  This is a general ROT and may vary depending on yeast strain or beer style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T18:20:04.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5186" CreationDate="2011-09-23T00:16:09.890" Score="7" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one ends-up with, say, half as much beer as needed to float the hydrometer, is dilution a viable way to get a measurement?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if one carefully measured the volume of available beer for the sample, mixed that beer with the same volume of water, then floated the hydrometer and took a reading, could that result be multiplied by 2 to get a valid gravity of the undiluted beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T22:11:53.930" Title="Can the final gravity be multiplied by the ratio of beer to water?" Tags="|hydrometer|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5185" CreationDate="2011-09-23T00:29:36.043" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Specific gravity is calculated on relative densities (density&lt;sub&gt;beer&lt;/sub&gt; / density&lt;sub&gt;water&lt;/sub&gt; in the case of brewing). If you double the volume of the beer as you describe by diluting it with water, then the density will be half (roughly, not accounting for intermolecular interactions). (D&lt;sub&gt;beer&lt;/sub&gt; / 2)/ D&lt;sub&gt;water&lt;/sub&gt; = (D&lt;sub&gt;beer&lt;/sub&gt; / D&lt;sub&gt;water&lt;/sub&gt;) /2, so multiplying by 2 would restore the actual original sg of the brew. Keep in mind that this is not exact as there is an inherent error in using the hydrometer (very temperature sensitive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-05T23:09:32.210" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T23:09:32.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2011-09-24T14:06:04.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not looking to spend a lot of money while keeping your fermentation temperatures lower in the warm months, you can &lt;strong&gt;set your carboy on a floor A/C register&lt;/strong&gt; and turn a trash can upside down over the carboy.  You could put it in a water bath as well (for more thermal mass and more temperature stability), but then you'd need an even bigger trash can to turn over on top of it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you adjust your house thermostat lower, this system &lt;em&gt;costs $0 to operate&lt;/em&gt; (presuming you'd have your a/c turned on anyway).  This is because the chilling captured under the trash can will eventually leak into the living area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen a guy rig a bit of flexible ducting from a ceiling a/c vent, but he was single (I'd never be able to get away with that in my house).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-09-24T14:06:04.317" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-24T14:06:04.317" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5189" CreationDate="2011-09-25T14:50:09.013" Score="4" ViewCount="1502" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1979/whats-the-minimum-mash-time&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, Basic Brewing Radio was quoted as saying longer mashes (up to 90 minutes) were &quot;better&quot;.  It seems as if there are practical limitations with maintaining temperature, as well as just wanting to limit the amount of time spend on the process.  But &lt;strong&gt;setting aside&lt;/strong&gt; these kinds of things, what would be the longest you would want to mash?  In other words, you have a mash tun that holds temperature perfectly and you have all the time in the world.  What &quot;bad&quot; things happen, if any, when you hold your mash at a target temperature for 2 hours, 4 hours, 8 hours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-09-25T15:25:07.550" Title="What's the maximum mash time?" Tags="|mash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5188" CreationDate="2011-09-25T15:25:07.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know a handful of brewers who have done overnight mashes.  So 12-18 hours.  I have experimented with this as well.  My last two beers were done with 12+ hour mashes.  One of these beers was a recipe I have brewed before.  The resultant beer seemed nearly identical to my normal 60min mash schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue with prolonged mashes like I describe is that if you go to long you'll start to get some bacterial issues in the mash as it cools back down to that 100-120 range.  In my case both mashes at 154 were around 146 in the morning.  I mashed in a cooler, covered with an old sleeping bag and several towels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 hour mash, IMO, will have little to no effect on the beer.  Assuming your mash pH is good to not slowly extract tannins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, your mash and conversion happens pretty quickly.  After that its just sitting there becoming ever so slightly more fermentable, but not really.  So the prolonged mash is fine if you need to mash in in the morning and finish up at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In case anyone wonders, the over night mash was done as a family man's solution to the long brew day.  Mash in after kids go to bed, and you can still get up early enough to finish the session before the kids wake up.  That way I am not up all night then exhausted in the morning when the wife needs to get to work and the kids want their pancakes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-25T15:25:07.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5190" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-25T19:36:04.803" Score="3" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;When brewers speak of their mashing techniques using mash temperature controlling technology, they sometimes make claims as to how fast they can get their mash from temperature 'A' to temperature 'B', and brag about the steepness of their 'ramp' (and sometimes forgetting to mention overshooting their temperatures).  What I would like to know is what is a reasonably quick ramp (in, say, degrees F per minute), and what is a ramp that is really too slow as to affect the conversion process in a negative way, and what effect that slow ramp would have on the final product.  Let's presume we're not doing anything really fancy, but maybe a protein rest, or other commonly used rests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T15:35:31.840" Title="What is considered to be a reasonable temperature rate change in a HERMS or RIMS system?" Tags="|mash|diacetyl-rest|decoction|protien-rest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-25T22:51:09.873" Score="3" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got about 3oz of cascade hops that spent 2 years in the freezer before I decided around January 2011 to take them out, put them in a paper bag, and let them sit at room temperature to age so I can brew a lambic.  Over the course of the last several months, anytime I opened the closet that I was storing them in I would get smacked in the face with a cheesy aroma.   However, a couple of weeks ago, I realized that I couldn't smell the cheese anymore, and today I finally opened the bag up, stirred my hand around in it, and stuck my nose in and inhaled, and no noticeable cheese aroma.   Is this a useful indicator that they are aged enough to put into a Lambic without causing off flavors or excess bitterness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-09-26T19:43:14.107" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T12:12:53.863" Title="Are my aged hops ready?" Tags="|hops|aging|lambics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5203" CreationDate="2011-09-26T02:14:37.237" Score="9" ViewCount="4419" Body="&lt;p&gt;The common wisdom I have known is that cooling, warming, then cooling beer again would cause it to &quot;skunk.&quot;  I now know that skunky flavors are typically the result of exposure to light, not temperature cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there detrimental effects to cooling, warming, then cooling beer again?  What is the effect of multiple cooling and warming cycles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T16:58:00.987" Title="What effect does cooling, then warming have on finished beer?" Tags="|beer|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5196" CreationDate="2011-09-26T04:01:14.643" Score="5" ViewCount="26418" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd heard (3rd-hand information, don't know how reliable it is) that aspirin (Bayer's original brand) can be used as a suitable substitute for campden tablets. Does anyone know how well this works? I ask because I need some campden tablets and the brewing supply store near me is closed for renovations, and won't open for a while. Are there other easy-to-get alternatives to campden?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T13:43:42.883" Title="Alternatives to campden tablets" Tags="|alternatives|campden|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5144" CreationDate="2011-09-26T04:26:58.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only used midwest, which were high quality, but why not try both?  I'm sure Northern has just as good kits.  Buy a kit from each, brew and compare.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case is you'll have 2 good beers.  Best case is you'll answer your question posted here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="975" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T04:26:58.033" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-10-14T03:06:43.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5194" CreationDate="2011-09-26T05:01:42.193" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm HIGHLY suspicious of substituing aspirin for metasulfate (the active compound in Campden tablets). Different chemicals and I've never heard of aspirin being effective against yeasts at normal concentrations. Certainly not a single tablet or two (or more). Aspirin is not an effective antimicrobial in the concentrations that you would want to drink. It appears that you would need a concentration of 400 micrograms per milliliter to see an effect and that translates to 3.5 lbs of pure aspirin in a 5 gal batch (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://gut.bmj.com/content/52/4/490&quot;&gt;http://gut.bmj.com/content/52/4/490&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could burn sulfur and bubble the gas through your solution, but this really wouldn't be very effective and it really stinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to remove the potentially problematic yeasts is to pasteurize. This is accomplished by bringing your solution to 145F for at least 30 minutes (or 165F for 1 minute, AKA HTST pasteurization - see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dairyeng.com/applejuice.asp&quot;&gt;http://www.dairyeng.com/applejuice.asp&lt;/a&gt;). This is what was done historically to kill bacteria and yeast. People who are potentially allergic to sulfites use this method instead of metasulfate. And I do this when I don't have Campden handy. Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-09-26T07:00:57.303" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T07:00:57.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5201" CreationDate="2011-09-26T16:35:28.673" Score="6" ViewCount="1710" Body="&lt;p&gt;My strongest homebrew batch to date is now in secondary, and I'm looking ahead to bottling.&#xA;My O.G. was 1.072, and I think there's a reasonable chance that the final alcohol content will be 8% A.B.V. or higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never made a batch this strong, and am wondering whether I will need to repitch yeast when I bottle. The initial pitch was with Safale US-05 Ale Yeast. The package doesn't seem to say anything about maximum alcohol. How do I determine whether it is necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T19:41:43.310" Title="How do I know if I should repitch at bottling?" Tags="|yeast|pitch|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5197" CreationDate="2011-09-26T17:23:41.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had US-05 ferment up to 10%, it took it a while though. Never tried higher than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T17:23:41.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5197" CreationDate="2011-09-26T17:28:40.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll be fine.  I don't worry about repitching unless the beer is over 1.100 OG and/or been in secondary more than 6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T17:28:40.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5181" CreationDate="2011-09-26T19:33:15.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One item to take into consideration is if you are doing Lagers, you will need a Diacytl rest.  This would typically be a 24-48 hour period at 55-60 °F vs the usual lower lager fermentation temps.  This is usually done between the Primary and Lagering steps. This rest helps ensure your beer doesn't taste like somebody dropped a big bag of buttered popcorn in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T19:33:15.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5197" CreationDate="2011-09-26T19:41:43.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the parameters you're using, re-pitching is most likely unnecessary. You didn't mention the length of time in batch aging (aka secondary) and/or Primary.  The ABV looks fine for the yeast.  The big items are to make sure that you provide enough priming sugars (distribute well with minimal aeration in the bottling bucket before going into the bottles to ensure more even carbing) and time/temp.  Leave the primed bottles somewhere about 70 degrees for plenty of time. This will be especially true with the higher ABV beers. I've always found that the lower ABV beers carbonate a bit faster, whereas the bigger beers tend to lag a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're fermenting a second time, so the time and temp is important. Minimizing air exposure is important to reduce or prevent oxidation as you store the bottles. I would also recommend keeping them somewhere dark, and I like to use large plastic tubs just in case a bottle pops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T19:41:43.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5193" CreationDate="2011-09-26T19:53:01.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warm storage tends to speed the aging process.  I would suppose (but have no proof) that you could relate the average storage temp over the life of the bottle to be directly related to life of the beer prior to becoming stale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be an interesting experiment overall.  Store a beer at the same average temp for a period of a year, where one cycled temperatures daily to reach the average storage temp, one was stored at the average temp for the entire time period, one stored warm for 6 months and then cold for 6 months and finally 6 months cold and 6 months warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastEditorUserId="1737" LastEditDate="2011-12-06T15:35:14.887" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T15:35:14.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5193" CreationDate="2011-09-26T23:47:13.710" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cooler is better, but the old myth that says that if you go through warming and cooling cycles the beer is ruined is just not true.  The warmer the beer gets the more that aging is accelerated, but it's the warmth, not the repeated warming and cooling, that does the damage.  And &quot;skunking&quot; comes from exposure of isomerized hops to light.  It has nothing to do with temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-12-06T16:58:00.987" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T16:58:00.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-27T01:03:27.533" Score="6" ViewCount="27064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a couple of used kegs from a former brew club member, he had to move away and sell all his brewing supplies :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news was that I picked up two kegs, a CO2 tank and all the required supplies for cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I've got an issue, when I pour there is too much head. I've got a double IPA in there at the moment, and every glass I pour is 90% head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've turned the CO2 tank all the way down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I should mention is that my freezer at this point in time isn't tall enough for keg's so I've got this keg sitting in my basement, which, while chilly, isn't cold. So the beer is relatively warm, however it is so good that I love drinking it at this temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T16:55:50.843" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T16:55:50.843" Title="How do I reduce the amount of head when dispensing from a keg?" Tags="|keg|pressure|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5204" CreationDate="2011-09-27T01:39:54.090" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you turn the CO2 down, there may still be pressure in the headspace of the keg. Flip the regulator off on the CO2 and pull on the pressure release valve on top of the keg. A lot of hissing will ensue as the CO2 races out. You might as well let it depressurize completely as CO2 is cheap. On a side note, don't breathe directly from this stream of exiting CO2, I don't know why you would, but just don't. Anyway, after you depressurize, set your regulator to about 4psi and turn it back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing this, the beer can still be overcarbonated for a while. However, I've found that once I'm on the correct serving pressure, after a couple days the beer releases some of the extra CO2 and goes back to good carbonation levels. I have never tried forcibly getting CO2 out of suspension (i.e. shaking the keg and letting off the CO2) but I suppose that is an option if you are desperate. I would note that exiting CO2 will carry off aromatics with it, which might not be good for retaining hop flavor on an IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say your best bet after depressurizing is to wait a couple days and let the beer naturally settle a bit. Also a couple pouring notes, if you just got the kegs. Some people when they get too much head try to pour slowly and only push down the valve halfway or so. I find this actually dramatically increases foaming as the beer gets forced through too small of an opening and gets lots of eddy currents and disturbances. If you actually push down all the way you get less foam since the stream can flow uninterrupted. I also find that if I start pouring into a sink and then move to a glass once the stream has started I get less foam. The first initial blast is usually more foamy, but once it's started it's much less so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway good luck, and enjoy the keg. Remember what you carbonated the beer at this time and remember to use less pressure on your next batch! They can be a little finicky when you are getting used to them, but now that I've had them for a couple years I would never dream of going back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T01:39:54.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5204" CreationDate="2011-09-27T03:02:23.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To lower the pressure you just need to keep bleeding it.  I'd set the pressure to the proper pressure for the carb level you are looking for.  Then bleed the keg pressure twice a day for a couple days. THen try the beer again and see if its at the right level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T03:02:23.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5191" CreationDate="2011-09-27T12:12:53.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try chewing a small leaf, or making hop tea with a couple of cones. This will help you gauge how much bitterness and aroma is left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T12:12:53.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5190" CreationDate="2011-09-27T15:15:00.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not have personal experience, but I have researched HERMS systems.  This article may help: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sdcollins.home.mindspring.com/HERMS.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sdcollins.home.mindspring.com/HERMS.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This author seems to think that claims of temperature change significantly greater than 1 degree/minute are probably not true and may be disingenuous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T15:15:00.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5204" CreationDate="2011-09-27T16:05:53.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem may not be too much pressure in the keg as much as serving lines that are too short.  You want the net pressure at the tap to be pretty close to zero.  To do that you need to figure in the resistance of the beer lines.  Generally it's 22-3 psi/ft.  So, if the beer is set at 12 psi. you need 4-6 feet of line to drop the pressure at the tap.  Once you're certain that the beer itself is not overcarbed (as the other answers explain) be sure that your system is balanced in respect to serving pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T17:10:34.063" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T17:10:34.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-28T19:26:34.570" Score="4" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this what my primary fermentation should look like after a day??? &#xA;It looks like my yeast has been sitting on top of foam..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/73lwl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://yfrog.com/kgfzqgkj&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1741" LastEditorUserId="1558" LastEditDate="2011-10-03T15:05:28.133" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T15:05:28.133" Title="Day 2 of Primary Fermentation of beer" Tags="|beer|yeast|fermentation|primary|foam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5210" CreationDate="2011-09-28T20:03:32.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like yeast that is sitting on top of a foam (krausen) that was produced by more yeast.  I assume you poured dry yeast directly into the fermenter?  All it means is that some of it clumped up top instead of sinking down.  The rest took over quickly and have been happily munching away.  A worst case scenario is the yeast was old and some of it had died.  This would have a greater potential to produce off flavors.  If you didn't have foam, you would probably want to re-pitch.  As it is, relax, don't worry, have a homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to avoid this from happening in the future, make a starter the day or two before and double check the date on the yeast package.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T20:03:32.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5212" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-28T20:06:39.573" Score="1" ViewCount="662" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5210/day-2-of-primary-fermentation-of-beer&quot;&gt;Day 2 of Primary Fermentation of beer&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this what it should look like day 2? I sprinkled the yeast on top yesterday, and today it looks like it foamed a bit and looks like the yeast is sitting on top..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GgZsi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;yeast in action&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1741" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T15:00:21.667" Title="Yeast on primary fermenting foam" Tags="|beer|yeast|fermentation|primary|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-10-06T17:04:22.797" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5212" CreationDate="2011-09-28T21:16:49.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks perfect  What you see sitting on top is trub and it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T21:16:49.413" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5216" CreationDate="2011-09-28T23:48:59.450" Score="2" ViewCount="4681" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the guides say to use Apple Cider without preservatives because they will kill off the yeast.  Preservative-free is obviously ideal, however I already bought cider with preservatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to get around this, say by using extra yeast or sugar, or some way of filtering out preservatives like Potassium Sorbate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interested more out of curiosity rather than practicality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T02:07:56.480" Title="Hard cider with preservatives" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5215" CreationDate="2011-09-29T01:59:20.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can pitch three times the rate and overcome the preservatives. Sorbates don't kill the yeasts, they just inhibit their action. So, overloading can help. I have used three packages of dry yeast in 5 gallons in the past and it worked fine. Also, use a champagne yeast like cotes de blanc or premier cuvee. They are more resistant to the action of sorbates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing is to mix what you have with non-preserved at a 1 to 1 rate and use two packages of dry yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allow it to sit in a cool environment for at least a week after fermentation stops before racking/bottling. This will allow a good settling and clearing, then when you rack it, be certain to avoid the stuff at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What preservatives are in what you bought?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T02:07:56.480" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T02:07:56.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5220" CreationDate="2011-09-29T03:56:45.867" Score="2" ViewCount="846" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple question: How do you store a lot of bottles (empty and full) in a small space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get a lot of bottles from friends, often arriving to me in 6-packs, and I have some odds and ends (i.e. 500mL, 1L, etc) that really don't fit anywhere.  I've tried using milk crates, but they don't really work because the grid doesn't really let a bottle sit flat.  Has anybody found a relatively inexpensive solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="691" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T04:02:30.650" Title="storing bottles" Tags="|storage|bottles|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-29T06:53:36.250" Score="6" ViewCount="13662" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use my old water bottles to bottle my beer? Like Dasani or Aquafina type water bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1741" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T05:57:31.397" Title="Types of bottles I can use for beer" Tags="|beer|water|bottle|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5218" CreationDate="2011-09-29T12:31:13.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the strictest sense, yes.   You just need a container that will hold pressure.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, plastic scratches more easily than glass, which means they could be harboring wild yeast or bacteria that are very difficult to remove.   Also, most beer bottles are brown glass because that particular color blocks most of the wavelengths of light that cause the beer to &quot;skunk&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you cycle out old bottles regularly and keep the full ones from being exposed to light, you can probably get away with it without any problems with the beer.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T12:31:13.067" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5217" CreationDate="2011-09-29T12:53:07.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep the bottles in 24 bottle cases for my 12oz-ers.  And I keep my 22's in a 12 bottle case that they get shipped in.  You can get these at your local beer store as most beer is shipped in 6 pack holders in a larger box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a bunch of 1L belgian style bottles that I kept in a rubbermaid bin.  But I had to be honest with myself recently and I tossed them out, because I just wasn't ready to use them anytime soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in boxes is a must for stacking, and a bin for oddball sizes. Most importantly is to be honest with yourself whether you'll really use them.  Keep you inventory to a reasonable size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T12:53:07.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5218" CreationDate="2011-09-29T13:12:38.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a 2 liter Soda bottle and it worked very nicely and was easy to bottle. It seems like it would be the same as the smaller water bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure they stay out of the light since they are clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T13:12:38.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5218" CreationDate="2011-09-29T15:25:43.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water bottles should be alright. My only concern is that they are not intended to hold pressure. Water bottles tend to be a thinner plastic than their carbonated soda bottle counterpart. I suspect that the pressure created by the beer is not enough to burst even the thinnest plastic bottle (assuming there are no weak spots), so it should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used soda bottles (of all sizes) before when I needed some more bottles in a pinch; they worked fine. Two liters are perfect for filling off my keg and bringing to parties!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1733" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T15:25:43.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5212" CreationDate="2011-09-29T17:52:39.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks great! Get the top back on before you let something nasty in there! Try really hard to ignore it for about 2 weeks and then check on it again.  Good beer takes time, RDWHAHB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T17:52:39.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5218" CreationDate="2011-09-29T18:04:15.633" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would strongly recommend brown glass bottles for bottling (hey why not ditch bottles and switch to kegging!).  As mentioned there are many potential issues with reusing plastic bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water Bottles are not designed to hold pressure. I keep my kegs around 11PSI. Homebrewers always recommend to be careful with naturally carbed bottles as they might become bottle bombs.  Glass Beer Bottles are designed for pressure and they don't explode, I just don't see plastic handling it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw Top vs Pry Off.  Screw tops are awfully convienient, but look in your craft beer section at the grocery and see what's being used professionally: Pry-Offs.  This is because they hold pressure better and tend to have fewer issues with oxidation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light.  Why spend tons of time making great beer and let it get all skunky from light exposure. Protect your beer, it's your baby. Put it in brown glass.  Stainless is even better but I understand not everyone wants to keg.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitation (part 1): As mentioned by baka plastic tends to scratch. this is a concern because it gives the nasty funky bugs a place to hide from your sanitization efforts. Glass doesn't scratch readily so it provides a better nonporous surface to sanitize.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitation (part 2): Is your sanitizer safe to use on the plastic employed in the water bottles? I don't know either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T12:22:21.493" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T12:22:21.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5218" CreationDate="2011-09-30T00:43:02.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, skunking, sanitation and pressure are all issues.  I would also be concerned with oxygen permeability.  If O₂ can get through the plastic and into your beer, oxidation will result, which will cause quite noticeable off-flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a reason we use glass and stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T00:43:02.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5217" CreationDate="2011-09-30T04:02:30.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wine/champagne cartons are useful for the odd sized ones like the squat 500 mL and 1 L bottles, as they are taller and the spaces are wider than typical beer cartons. I get these at grocery stores that stock wine/champagne.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T04:02:30.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5218" CreationDate="2011-09-30T04:13:00.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use heavy plastic soda bottles, use the smaller (20 oz) root beer bottles as they tend to be colored brown. But, you will need to wash them thoroughly, or you'll end up with clove overtones in the beer (something that can be desirable if that suits your taste). Boiling them in water with baking soda added to it helps remove the residual root beer flavor. Follow with a good sanitizer soak and you will be good to go. These are similar to the bottles that come with the Mr Beer kits, BTW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-09-30T17:39:07.310" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T17:39:07.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5229" CreationDate="2011-10-01T03:58:28.480" Score="1" ViewCount="3261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend who is allergic to sulfites in wine, so he sticks to drinking beer.  I use campden tablets to dechlorinate my water, at a rate of one tablet per 10 gallons.  How much sulfite makes it into the final beer when treating water this way?  How does it compare to sulfite levels in wine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-10-01T16:34:34.983" Title="When using campden tablets to dechlorinate water, how much sulfite makes it into the final beer?" Tags="|beer|chemistry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5228" CreationDate="2011-10-01T04:25:07.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That would be hard to know accurately.  A better way to remove the chlorine would be to use a Brita or Pur filter (an activated carbon filtering system), or expose the water in a colorless carboy or container to intense light for several hours with the top open to allow the chlorine to escape (this is a common way to allow the chlorine to escape when prepping for fish tanks). These do not add sulfur compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the rate that you are using the campden, the sulfite levels would be less than the typical ppm in wine. Before the metabisulfite reacts with the chlorine and chloramine, the concentration would be about 7 parts per million (using standard .44 g tablets). Sulfite levels of less than 10 ppm in wine are allowed for a wine to be called sulfite free ( see &lt;a href=&quot;http://wineintro.com/glossary/s/sulfites.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wineintro.com/glossary/s/sulfites.html&lt;/a&gt;). So even if none of the campden reacted, at the rate that you are adding it, the concentration would be below that accepted as &quot;sulfite-free&quot; in wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a brita filter and have experimentally determined that chlorine and other contaminants are reduced to sub part per million levels. BTW - the same filters also remove sulfite and sulfates. Be certain to use a relatively fresh filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-01T04:42:30.067" LastActivityDate="2011-10-01T04:42:30.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5231" CreationDate="2011-10-01T14:43:21.027" Score="2" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a bit of mold on top of my wort.  My situation is a bit different than what others seem to have encountered...  I made the wort about 5 days ago and hadn't gotten around to pitching the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, if no known pathogens can survive in beer, does that apply in this case if the fermentation finishes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1747" LastActivityDate="2011-10-01T23:16:23.987" Title="Mold on wort pre-pitch" Tags="|wort|contamination|pre-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5230" CreationDate="2011-10-01T16:29:44.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you have to worry about being harmed by the beer, but you probably should worry about the flavor.  If there's mold on top, I'd toss it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-10-01T16:29:44.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5228" CreationDate="2011-10-01T16:34:34.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using campden is less expensive, faster, and more effective than using a filter.  Basically, there is no sulfite left.  According to BYO &quot;The reaction converts chlorine into chloride and the sulfite is converted to sulfate.&quot;  (http://www.byo.com/stories/wizard/article/section/121-mr-wizard/475-clearing-chloramine-a-historical-hopping-mr-wizard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-10-01T16:34:34.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5230" CreationDate="2011-10-01T23:16:23.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the problem is not with the microorganisms themselves, which will be destroyed by heating, but with the toxins they produce, which won't be; salmonella works this way, for instance.  We try to pitch large, healthy populations of yeast so they out compete undesirable microorganisms for the sugars.  If it's already moldy, I think you've lost that race.  And while &quot;spontaneous fermentation&quot; has been used for thousands of years, mold has never been desirable. :)  As well, fermentation isn't going to clean up anything nasty that's already there.  I say &quot;toss it&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-10-01T23:16:23.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-02T09:53:11.880" Score="1" ViewCount="1047" Body="&lt;p&gt;My white wine fermented successfully  for a few days in a bucket. I've transferred it to a joram and it's stopped. Can I restart it somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1751" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T03:33:50.587" Title="My white wine has stopped fermenting, how can I restart it?" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5234" CreationDate="2011-10-02T18:16:08.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Jeff said, check the specific gravity. I've had batches that seemed to be stuck, that turned out to be finished when I checked the sg. Depending on the temperature, it can take a relatively short time for fermentation.I've had a 5 gallon batch ferment out to below 1.009 in three days, when the temperature was about 74F. Not a suggested temperature, but it was what happened. The wine still turned out ok. but wasn't one of my better efforts. Used it a lot in cooking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sg is where you want it, then bottle it. If not, then repitching with some yeast that has some yeast nutrient added to the activation mix, and you should be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-03T03:33:50.587" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T03:33:50.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5237" CreationDate="2011-10-03T00:30:51.057" Score="3" ViewCount="928" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew from extract, boiling on an electric stove (in an apartment).  Every beer I've brewed has been darker than I expected, which isn't an issue most of the time as I generally prefer darker beers... However, I'd like my next attempt at a pale ale to come out pale!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is primarily caused by the way I'm boiling, essentially caramelizing on the bottom of my brew pot.  Is this correct?  Any suggestions on avoiding it, or generally keeping an ale light colored?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="691" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T00:59:29.743" Title="Keeping my pale ale &quot;pale&quot;" Tags="|beer|color|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5236" CreationDate="2011-10-03T00:56:06.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are doing partial boils, you are probably getting significant wort darkening and lower hop utilization from the high gravity boil.  Extract tends to come out darker regardless, but this can be mitigated somewhat by waiting until the end of your boil to add the majority of your extract. Since your target OG may be something like 1.050, when you're boiling only maybe 2.5 gallons of the 5 gallon batch, you've got a gravity of something like 1.100 if you add all of the extract at the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding perhaps 1/2 or 2/3 of your extract with 10 minutes left in the boil (so that it is sanitized) should reduce this darkening somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T00:56:06.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5236" CreationDate="2011-10-03T00:59:29.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What sort of extract are you using?  Ideally you'll be using the palest extract you can get, and use speciality grains for color and flavor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are you adding your extract to the kettle?  If you dump the whole mass of extract the bottom of your kettle with the flame applied, you can easily scorch the extract against the bottom, which … you'd remember.  It'd lead more to burned-extract-flakes than a general darkening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T00:59:29.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2011-10-03T01:26:20.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If money were no object, you go have your design laser etched into your bottles with a blank spot where you could affix a temporary paper label that would hold the name of the specific beer. Or maybe a less expensive acid etching. You'd want to do the etching prior to filling the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For vendors, Google the term &quot;laser etching services&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For DIY&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy an EPILOG for $15,000 and follow this guide: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Last-Minute-Christmas-Gift-Laser-Etched-Water-Bot/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Last-Minute-Christmas-Gift-Laser-Etched-Water-Bot/&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or a cheaper method using acid-etching and a Cricut machine: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-glass-engraving-with-the-Cricut/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-glass-engraving-with-the-Cricut/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1753" LastEditorUserId="1753" LastEditDate="2011-10-21T17:35:20.347" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T17:35:20.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5241" CreationDate="2011-10-03T17:46:09.107" Score="4" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 6 gallon plastic fermenter - one of those food-grade plastic buckets Midwest gives you in the starter kit. I guess after our last brew, my brother and I carelessly tossed the remains of our bag of bottlecaps in there without fully drying out the bucket. Brother just looked in there a few days ago and the caps are all rusty and there are some rust stains in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously we can't use the caps now, but I'm more concerned about the fermenter. My gut tells me that if the stains do not come out with some water and a washrag they probably also won't come out into any beer we ferment in there, but I'm not sure. Should we just get another bucket just to be safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1666" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T13:07:51.030" Title="Rust in a plastic fermenter?" Tags="|equipment|sanitation|troubleshooting|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5240" CreationDate="2011-10-03T20:02:21.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rust stains are from the iron oxide that formed (this much I assume you know) from the iron in the caps. These stains will not harbor bacteria or other &quot;nasties&quot; to a significant level, as these are large organisms when compared to the iron oxide molecule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to remove them by scrubbing can indeed scratch the plastic, but there is no scientific evidence that these scratches provide breeding sites for bacteria, contrary to popular myth, &lt;strong&gt;that can overcome the sanitizing action of iodine-based solutions&lt;/strong&gt; (the most common base for brewing sanitizers). Any additional bacteria will be killed when sanitizing is done properly, as the chemicals will enter the scratches themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd ignore the stains that might remain after a good cleaning with oxyclean and subsequent sanitizing with I-O-Safe or iodine tablets and use the bucket without scrubbing to remove the stains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T20:02:21.580" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-03T20:41:39.723" Score="3" ViewCount="1784" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read through the various posts here and the common wisdom is that off flavors are because of poor sanitizing or using scratched plastic carboys/buckets. I'd like to read from some of the &quot;master brewers&quot; here and get their take on this commonly held notion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the basis for my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Palmer's reference has very few off flavors that he mentions as a function of cleaning and none from using scratched fermenters. So, if you know that you are using proper sanitizing technique, have you still produced off flavors? If so, were you able to track down the source as something different than Palmer's observations?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another commonly held notion is that glass is better than plastic because plastic scratches and these become sources of infection and off flavors. Have you ever had this happen with scratched plastic carboys when you knew that you sanitized properly at the beginning?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T21:25:21.550" Title="off flavors and sanitizing/scratched plastic" Tags="|sanitation|off-flavor|plastic|glass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5242" CreationDate="2011-10-03T21:07:13.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't comment on Palmer's observations, I haven't had a plastics-related infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, from a scratch standpoint glass is better than plastic, when it comes to using carboys as fermenters.  But only from that standpoint.  Plastic carboys are superior in a lot of ways, but hard to clean because you can't just go at them with a bottle brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think a carboy is sub-optimal to ferment in.  Age?  Sure.  Ferment something that doesn't krausen?  Sure.  But regular old beer?  No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find plastic buckets are superior.  Easier to clean, easier to handle and not slippery and dangerous like glass carboys.  Soft cloth and mild soapy water to clean.  Never store anything but beer in them, no matter how handy it would be to just slip your bottle capper into the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small scratches can harbor bacteria.  I'm not saying that Palmer is wrong, but I think there is anecdotal evidence to support the idea.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2163/boiling-water-and-plastic-equipment/2165#2165&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are a &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/967/using-plastic-water-jugs-as-fermenters/973#973&quot;&gt;couple&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2145/sanitizing-second-hand-equipment-plastic-fermenters-etc/2146#2146&quot;&gt;related&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1472/cleaning-difficult-krausen-ring-off-better-bottle/1476#1476&quot;&gt;links&lt;/a&gt; to plastics on this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T21:07:13.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5242" CreationDate="2011-10-03T21:25:21.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Off flavors come from process issues and sanitation issues.  An example of a process issue would be over-pitching or under-pitching yeast, or over oxygenating or splashing while transferring and oxidizing finished beer.  Sanitation issues are off flavors from microbial infection.&#xA;I would say that most of the time off flavors are generated through process issues, not sanitation issues.  That is to say, its not hard to have good sanitation practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing how to distinguish where an off flavor came from is very important.  I think this is why you don't outright see Palmer's book talking about scratched fermentors.  He talks about where the flavors come from. (You can get microbial infections without scratches)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, scratches don't guarantee microbial contamination.  I understand the theories behind it, but I can't say know of too many failed batches that can be tracked to a scratched fermentor.  I think the scratch thing is a bit overplayed.  A deep gouge that you just can't clean out effective would give you problems.  Scratches only become sources of infection if you had an infection in the last batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T21:25:21.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-03T22:19:19.697" Score="18" ViewCount="33134" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basic question. Can you get sick and die from drinking infected brew? I know that it must taste terrible, was just wondering. Can't seem to find any references where people have died from infected beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T11:34:37.183" LastActivityDate="2023-10-08T19:54:02.290" Title="Can Infected beer cause death or major illness?" Tags="|contamination|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5245" CreationDate="2011-10-03T22:44:10.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb I've always been taught is that if the beer smells that bad you won't drink it, and anything that simply tastes bad probably isn't enough to hurt you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I've never heard of anyone being sick due to contaminated beer, with the exception of dirty beer lines.  I've gotten puking sick from dirty beer lines a few times back in the day when I shot league darts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T22:44:10.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5245" CreationDate="2011-10-03T23:00:29.053" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, no.  Otherwise beer making would have never made it out of the middle-ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The acidic environment and low alcohol does a good job of stemming most pathogenic bugs. Certainly some microbial contaminations might not agree with different people and make them ill.  The general rule of thumb is that pathogens do not survive in beer, hence why you can't find any references to people biting the dust due to beer contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T23:00:29.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5240" CreationDate="2011-10-04T13:07:51.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did the same thing a while back (actually a few times)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Just use a sponge to get the rust marks off then sanitize like normal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have brewed many batches since without ever getting sick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T13:07:51.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4369" CreationDate="2011-10-04T17:06:15.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone told me about these sediment catchers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sedexbrewing.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sedexbrewing.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not used them before, but it seems like the basic idea is that you bottle-condition with the bottles upside-down. The sediment ends up in the bottom part of the two-piece cap. When you remove the bottom part, it seals the top part so your beer remains carbonated, but you've removed the sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video of someone showing how it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2PPBmJZFd0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2PPBmJZFd0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe that's what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1506" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T17:06:15.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5254" CreationDate="2011-10-04T20:24:51.280" Score="4" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed a double IPA last Sunday and used a HopRocket as a hopback for the first time (standard setup: kettle -&gt; HopRocket -&gt; counterflow chiller -&gt; fermenter using gravity feed.) Overall very pleased with the device. Seemed to add a hop character that was quite different than hops in the kettle or dry hopping. We brew 10G batches and split the output from the kettle into 2 carboys. First half of the &quot;drain&quot; goes into one carboy, last into the second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in knowing if anyone has done any testing on the effects of a hopback at the beginning vs. end of the run. Will there be noticeable differences between the carboys? We thought about swapping the output hose more frequently to try and even out any differences, but that seemed like too much work. For those of you that use a hopback and split the output, how do you handle this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the HopRocket &quot;captured&quot; about 5 cups of wort. Is there any way other than a pump to get this wort to drain through the chiller? Seemed a shame to waste that so we froze it and may use it for priming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1645" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T16:23:03.037" Title="HopRocket (hopback) questions: &quot;captive&quot; wort and effect at beginning vs. end of run" Tags="|hops|hopback|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5255" CreationDate="2011-10-05T04:47:25.047" Score="6" ViewCount="598" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much do bittering hops contribute to flavor?  Does a hop addition at the beginning of a 60m boil result in the destruction of most that hop's flavor compounds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="203" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T11:38:50.660" Title="Bittering hop contribution to flavor" Tags="|hops|bittering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5251" CreationDate="2011-10-05T06:37:14.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bittering hops contribute little to flavor - most of the flavor compounds have been boiled off - or at least, that's the common wisdom. To maintain flavor, hops should be boiled for round 20-30 mins, or dry hopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do an experiment - boil the same amount of hops in a quantity of water for different lengths of time - 60 mins, 45 mins, 30 mins, 15 mins and 5 mins to see the affect on flavor and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although utilization is lower with water, that's not what's important here, and using water rather than wort will be sure your solute has no appreciable flavor or aroma that might mask that from the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T06:37:14.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4384" CreationDate="2011-10-05T15:42:57.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this exact same kit and did the same thing, only I didn't see the thing on the box about refrigerating the yeast, so it sat at room temperature for several weeks. I emailed their support and this is what they said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It looks like you should have received a dry yeast packet with your order. That should be just fine to sit at room temp. It is only the liquid yeast that needs to be refrigerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He didn't mention anything about the other ingredients. Since the hops in the kit are in little vacuum-sealed bags, I'm sure they'd stay fresh much longer than they would otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1756" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T15:42:57.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5250" CreationDate="2011-10-05T16:23:03.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Email Blichmann with your question.  They have excellent customer service.&#xA;Thats the best answer you are going to get. (Meaning from Blichmann, not from me)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T16:23:03.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5251" CreationDate="2011-10-05T16:32:34.603" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 60 minute addition does indeed contribute to flavor.  Its not much but its noticeable.&#xA;Especially the higher alpha acid varieties.  I have brewed several single hops beers with a single shot at 60 minutes, and you can definitely pick out some flavor differences between hop varieties.  The beers aren't all simply bitter with no flavor when compared side by side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, to really get appreciable flavor additions you still should use some mid boil hops.&#xA;I tend to like 10 minutes for max flavor effect.  I don't think you can actually quantify flavor though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course taste and aroma are so closely related mechanically in your nose and mouth its impossible to not have something super dry hopped and thing that its also got a big flavor addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've added a load of hops only at flameout, with a single 60min addition.  The nose is amazing but you'd swear there were mid boil hops added too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="2215" LastEditDate="2012-07-19T11:38:50.660" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T11:38:50.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-06T01:17:38.263" Score="6" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a great brewing magazine?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why do you like it?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does it do well?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why is it better than the others?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T17:39:58.853" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T17:39:58.853" Title="What are some good homebrewing magazines?" Tags="|beer|magazine|media|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-10-06T17:08:26.970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="220" CreationDate="2011-10-06T16:11:46.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/we-no-need-no-stinking-beer-gun-24678/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BMBF!&lt;/a&gt;  Get a racking cane and a stopper and you're all set.  I bottle regularly from kegs using this method and it works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T16:11:46.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5256" CreationDate="2011-10-06T17:39:34.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are really only 2 magazines devoted to homebrewing...Zymurgy and Brew Your Own (BYO).  Both are pretty good, although I lean toward Zymurgy (disclaimer:I've written for both).  What Makes me prefer Zymurgy is partially that I think the articles are a bit better, but mainly that you get it by joining the American Homebrewers Association.  That means you support homebrewers and the AHA's legislative efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T17:39:34.517" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-10-06T17:39:34.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5262" CreationDate="2011-10-06T17:41:14.343" Score="7" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's of course possible, but I'd appreciate any experience anyone has with &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; dry-hopping for finishing hops.  That would mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add the bittering hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chill, aerate, pitch, ferment as usual&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dry-hop for some number of days in secondary or keg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you done this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T21:26:15.683" Title="What's the flavor profile of a beer that only uses bittering and dry hops?" Tags="|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2011-10-06T18:00:16.630" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you specified carboy, but for those looking to dry-hop in the keg, it's also important not to have the bag sink to the bottom and sit over the outlet. You pull out all sorts of nasty sediment and flavors that way, particularly when using pellet hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've managed to solve this by throwing both a sanitized ping pong ball and a sanitized washer in the hop bag. The washer sinks, and the ball floats, suspending the bag in the top-middle of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T18:00:16.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2011-10-06T18:35:33.683" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried weighting and not weighting and found that it makes absolutely no difference.  I hate doing unnecessary work, so I no longer weight the bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T18:35:33.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5259" CreationDate="2011-10-06T18:37:39.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done that quite a few times.  It ends up kinda like you'd expect...a tiny bit of flavor from the bittering hops and great aroma from the dry hops.  You can definitely make a really good beer like that if you plan your recipe around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T18:37:39.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5264" CreationDate="2011-10-06T19:25:59.890" Score="6" ViewCount="1237" Body="&lt;p&gt;After using, then cleaning a keg with PBW, what is the best way to store the cleaned keg?  I may not use the keg for a while, and I would like to avoid mold growing in any residual water (for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I: sanitize after cleaning? store with the lid off to encourage drying? something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T19:47:06.297" Title="Best way to store empty kegs" Tags="|kegging|sanitation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5263" CreationDate="2011-10-06T19:47:06.297" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;After cleaning (I use PBW also, occasionally Oxiclean) I turn the keg upside down and let it dry overnight.  Then I put the lid on and pressurize to 10 psi.  That serves 2 purposes. First, the CO2 helps prevent things from growing in the keg. Second, when I'm ready to use the keg, I pull the pressure relief valve.  If there's not still pressure on the keg, I know that it's leaky and needs to be repaired before I use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T19:47:06.297" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2011-10-06T22:01:32.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was advised I did not have to use a bag and it was OK to just add the hops to the fermenter. The last batch was a double IPA and it turned out awsome!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T22:01:32.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-07T16:11:01.943" Score="4" ViewCount="4404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of making a pretty big pumpkin beer, and just transferred to secondary. There was an incredible amount of trub -- probably 1.5 gallons out of a 5 gallon batch. I guess it was a combination of a lot of malt and a lot of pumpkin. The beer had been in primary for about 10 days and so it was pretty well settled, and I think I got all the usable beer out of it I could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from being a little sad that my yield is down to 3.5 gallons, I have a couple concerns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the large amount of stuff that settled out going to affect my ABV calculations? I.e., was all that stuff in suspension originally, and artificially inflated my OG reading (1.072)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I reduce the amount of priming sugar I would typically, to avoid over-carbonation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it common to lose so much volume to trub, and is there anything I should do about it in the future?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;So there are two answers, one saying that suspended solids do not change specific gravity readings, one saying that they do. There must be a correct answer to this question, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="1736" LastEditDate="2011-10-09T01:12:10.640" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T03:03:31.143" Title="Lots of trub affecting specific gravity readings?" Tags="|original-gravity|priming|trub|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5266" CreationDate="2011-10-07T17:10:34.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Large amounts of suspended particles will effect SG readings, but it is hard to say by how much. In the future, take a  sample, clarify it with some gelatin, then take the reading. The more accurate readings come from the most clarified solutions. Chances are that you are correct in assuming that the OG is off. Using a refractometer to determine the ABV on the fermented brew will give you a more accurate reading at this point. I'd take a sample to a local homebrew supply that has these and see if they will do a reading for you with a refractometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But trub won't effect the readings, because it is not suspended as I mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The priming sugar is probably not an issue if you can get an accurate FG reading as described above and prime towards the lower end of the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; volume range. If you are really worried about it, how about only priming a sample, bottling that sample, and leave it in a relatively warm place (70&lt;sup&gt;o&lt;/sup&gt;F in a closed bucket - in case of bottle bombing) for a week or two, then uncapping the sample bottle to test the carbonation? Then you can adjust the sugar amount if needed by using the tastybrew priming calculator ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&lt;/a&gt; ). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loss due to trub ... I'm thinking that clarifying before pitching for primary fermentation would certainly yield a more clear wort to ferment (and better OG readings), but you may lose some flavor. How much is hard to say. Was the trub dense or &quot;fluffy&quot;? If it was pretty dense, then I don't think that there is much you can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do know that when I have done fruit/pumpkin brews, I got a lot more trub, but always assumed that this was normal. But I didn't get quite the volume loss as you describe here (mine tended to be less than a gallon, estimating from vision).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-08T02:28:09.623" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T02:28:09.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5266" CreationDate="2011-10-07T17:18:58.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Undissolved solids, like trub, will not affect your gravity readings.  Hydrometers and refractometers only measure what's dissolved in the liquid.  Imagine if you had a swimming pool full of poodles.  Would the density of the water increase?  No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to priming sugar, all you have to do is calculate the amount based on the amount of beer you have.  For instance, if you normally use 5 oz. of sugar for 5 gal., you would want to use 3.5 oz. for the amount you have now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of loss to trub will vary depending on your recipe and the ingredients you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-10T01:51:28.380" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T01:51:28.380" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5269" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-08T15:49:22.937" Score="1" ViewCount="834" Body="&lt;p&gt;i was wondering if anyone knows of any recreations of Hawkeyes Still for the TV show MASH?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or really even just some basic infomation about similar Still setups would be amazing.&#xA;at this point its more for interests sake then a plan to build my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s im stuggling to think of what to tag this, so please feel free to add tags you think will fit!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1761" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-10-09T01:09:41.723" LastActivityDate="2011-10-09T01:09:41.723" Title="Infomation about the Still from M.A.S.H" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-10-08T15:50:58.377" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2432" CreationDate="2011-10-08T19:24:13.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a grapefruit wheat ale a few months ago and it turned out great.  I started doing what was suggested to you and it was ok.  I used 5 pounds of grapefruit in a 6 gallon batch.  The flavour was ok, but tasted too much like the bitterness of the peel for my liking.  So I added an additional 3 pounds that I peeled and crushed.  This added more of a juice like flavour.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the risk of infection, adding the grapefruit shortly before bottling or kegging means there should be enough alcohol to prevent an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other concern I had was the amount of sugar in the grapefruit that would cause the beer to be over-carbonated once bottled.  I decided to wait a couple days before bottling, but it still had more carbonation that it should have.  Next time I'll cut down on the amount of bottling sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer has been a big hit with friends a family and I'll definitely be brewing it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T19:24:13.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5273" CreationDate="2011-10-10T16:46:23.740" Score="8" ViewCount="1080" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/first-time-brewer-s-starter-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;First-Time Brewer's Starter Kit&lt;/a&gt; from Midwest Supply and enjoyed the process quite a bit. While the kit has the essentials for extract brewing, I know there are lots of things I can get to make the process (and product) better. Since I'm not independently wealthy, though, I need to pick just one or two pieces of equipment now and build up my arsenal slowly. What are some of the best next equipment purchases that will give me the most improvement in my brewing? A few of the items I'm considering are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass carboy for 2-stage fermentation (the kit only came with a plastic fermenter and a bottling bucket)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wort chiller - because I'd hate to lose a batch to infection if I can help it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto-siphon - just seems like a good idea overall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a few other cheap miscellaneous things that I'll probably get right away anyway (funnel with strainer, nicer thermometer, nylon boiling bag so I don't have to use that sock thing they send with the kit). Any other suggestions or reasons I should/shouldn't get any of the above items right away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1756" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:45:16.053" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T06:14:03.977" Title="What's a good first equipment buy after a basic starter kit?" Tags="|equipment|kits|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5271" CreationDate="2011-10-10T17:11:53.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say a wort chiller and and auto-siphon both seem like excellent ideas. The chiller will save you a TON of time in the process, and the auto-siphon is good for sanitization and ease of use. Auto siphons are pretty cheap too, but the chiller might cost you a fair amount. As for the carboy, I usually don't rack to secondary, I just leave it in the bucket until it's done, so I wouldn't see it as necessary but that's up to you. I really only use my carboy for cider now since it doesn't foam over during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T17:11:53.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5271" CreationDate="2011-10-10T18:02:47.533" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither of those...&#xA;The next purchase to making better beer is a thermostat controller and a fridge.  The controller you can get at your LHBS or at an online shop. Then cruise craigslist for the fridge.&#xA;You can get a fine chill in the sink with ice, like you already are doing (right!).&#xA;A secondary isn't necessary really anyway.  And several people make great beer just using buckets which are cheap and easy to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temp control!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T18:02:47.533" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5271" CreationDate="2011-10-10T18:32:49.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a really good thermometer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2011/10/themoworks-rt600c-minmax-super-fast.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2011/10/themoworks-rt600c-minmax-super-fast.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T18:32:49.717" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5271" CreationDate="2011-10-10T20:15:53.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;+1 each for the autosyphon and temperature control. Glass carboy? Guess I'd say carboy in general, without getting into the plastic v glass argument (each has its fanboys and never will the two camps agree, my small carboy is glass and my large ones are certified nalgene and polycarbonate because of weight handling issues). Something simple that I wish I had early on is a &quot;wine thief&quot; to make taking intermediate SG's easier after I moved to carboys. The faucet attachment to spray out bottles is good and can be used to rinse out carboys if you are stuck inside and can't use a garden hose. Getting some Erlenmeyer flasks to culture yeast can be handy. And a clip-on tube clamp for the syphon tubing is something that my local homebrew supplier turned me onto and has proven to be a great help, if you don't get the autosyphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-10T20:26:55.653" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T20:26:55.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5276" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-11T12:45:09.593" Score="3" ViewCount="1741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently brewing an apple wine. I started it at 1.080, and when that was finished I added another 1.020. Now it has been sitting on it's yeast cake for about one month, and I'm considering if I should add another addition (to max out the yeast and allow for some sweetening) or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it detrimental to add more sugar now? As in, will the fermentation be weak and stressed? Should I siphon the wine off the cake and add it without the yeast cake? Should I just not mix it after addition, so as not to bring the trub into suspension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T00:28:03.917" Title="Is a late addition of sugar into wine a month after primary ended detrimental?" Tags="|wine|late-addition|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5276" CreationDate="2011-10-11T15:48:55.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd siphon the wine, add the sugar, then carefully add back to the cake to avoid stirring up the trub as much as possible. I'd certainly let the yeast do their thing for another couple of weeks to avoid over pressuring unless you want a sparkling apple wine, and in that case, I'd bottle in champagne or heavy glass bottles. The ABV is going to be pretty stiff and I'd worry about overpowering the apple flavenoids. You certainly will want to let the wine age a while (at least a year or so) to allow the flavor to develop over the alcohol. I had a similar experience with a pear cider that turned into a pear wine, took about a year and a half for the fruit flavor to recover. Apple is a more robust fruit flavor than pear, but I'd still be concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the yeast will eventually shut down as the alcohol concentration gets too high for them. So, you may not see any further CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; generation (seems to be your goal), but I'd really give it some time before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T15:48:55.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5276" CreationDate="2011-10-11T21:29:47.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would rack the apple wine off of the yeast cake and mix in your sugar and some campden tabs.  I wouldn't add it back to the yeast cake. There is plenty of yeast in suspension that will be able to ferment the sugar just fine (that is, until the alcohol levels get too high). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the alcohol levels do get close to too high the yeast will be stressed so the less yeast cake with loads of dormant/dead yeast to be cannibalized etc., the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T21:29:47.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1809" CreationDate="2011-10-11T22:09:01.010" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;New Scientist - December 2004 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chemical tests on ancient fragments of broken pottery show that Chinese villagers were brewing alcoholic drinks as far back as 7000 BC. That beats the previous record for the oldest evidence of brewing, found in Iran and dated at about 5400 BC. !!!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1765" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T22:09:01.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1809" CreationDate="2011-10-11T22:27:10.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;BYO had an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/article/indices/17-brewing-history/2223-tutankhamun-ale-story&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; in the November 2010 issue about Egyptian brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T22:27:10.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5282" CreationDate="2011-10-12T02:36:22.777" Score="4" ViewCount="3693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a city that puts fluoride in the drinking water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am in the habit of boiling all water before storing it (and allowing it to cool) for brew day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will fluoride effect the brew in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will boiling the water before using mitigate this effect? If not, is there any known way to mitigate this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1612" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:46:01.470" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T02:35:03.560" Title="Effects on homebrew from Fluoride in tap water" Tags="|fermentation|water|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5281" CreationDate="2011-10-12T05:08:43.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fluoride isn't easily removed by boiling. Using an activated charcoal filter system is the most efficient way to remove it (Pur or Brita are common ones, I use the Brita).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to distill the water to remove the fluoride with temperature-based methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am not aware of any negative effects of fluoride on brewing other than if the concentration gets very high. I've done some research on this in the past and haven't found any non-anecdotal reports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fluoride inhibits the action of lipase that is important in malting grains. If lipase is allowed to act during malting, it forms compounds that will ultimately produce poor shelf-life and some production of off-tastes. ( see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scientificsocieties.org/jib/papers/1996/1996_102_1_039.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.scientificsocieties.org/jib/papers/1996/1996_102_1_039.pdf&lt;/a&gt; ). But this probably doesn't really effect typical home-brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just filter my brewing (and drinking/cooking for that matter) water on principle as a chemist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-12T05:26:40.400" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T05:26:40.400" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1809" CreationDate="2011-10-12T12:55:27.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think he's a brewer, but Patrick McGovern's book &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520267985&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Uncorking The Past&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; covers a lot about these topics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T12:55:27.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5271" CreationDate="2011-10-12T16:12:18.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently went from a basic brew kit/extracts and now to starting all grain.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I believe the &lt;strong&gt;wort chiller&lt;/strong&gt; was the best initial investment in my case, followed by the auto siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T16:12:18.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5266" CreationDate="2011-10-12T18:27:10.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specific gravity is density standardized to the density of water. Density is the measure of weight per unit volume. If density increases, SG increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the dissolved solids settle, they are apparently higher density than the fluid. A unit of the fluid containing 30% solids will have a density of (0.3)D[pulp]*(0.7)D[fluid]. Since D[pulp] is greater than D[fluid], the reading will be higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the most likely case. It is possible that as the ferment occurred, D[fluid] decreased to less than D[pulp], causing the pulp to settle. In that case, you can't tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, the difference is probably not great. Since it takes a long time for the solids to settle, they can be assumed to be close to the density of the fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the reading was probably effected, but not by much, and the beer will likely still taste good. Enjoy:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epa.gov/eogapti1/bces/module4/gravity/txt_answer/t_answer.htm#2tt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.epa.gov/eogapti1/bces/module4/gravity/txt_answer/t_answer.htm#2tt&lt;/a&gt;, question 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1768" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T18:27:10.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5271" CreationDate="2011-10-12T18:53:01.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For extract, the variables you really need control over (and thus the equipment) are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yeast growth (part one). For beers with character of your choosing, it is so much nicer if you can grow the wonderful varieties of yeast from wyeast and whitelabs and do fun things like cultivate the yeast from bottles of chimay. This is basically free. You just need a few jars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fermentation temperature. I agree, get a thermostat (stc-1000 or similar). Ideally get a fridge. As a (slightly) cheaper option, you can control a fan over a dustbin with water in. As long as you can keep a steady, say, 18C (64F) then you can make quality ale.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooling post boil. Yes, get a cooler. Make it a plate cooler. (Though immersion and plate coolers take about the same time to cool a whole batch, the plate cooler chills the actual wort going through it in just a couple of seconds, which is hundreds of times faster than the immersion cooler).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yeast (part two). Something very handy is a stirplate. It consists of a computer fan, old mobile/cell phone charger and two strongish magnets. Stir plates guarantee you enough yeast to finish off fermentations properly, which lets you make dryer, cleaner beers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auto-siphons and carbuoys are good to have, although you can make do without them. Plastic buckets with taps at the bottom make siphoning un-necessary. There is one shortcoming: siphoning can be better if you want to make really clear beers. Beer that has been left to clear is better siphoned off the top. Oxygen permeability of plastic is not a problem over ale fermentation times. Lager I am not so sure, but fermenting lager is an advanced topic for all sorts of reasons and probably comes at the very end of the long list you are just starting. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1769" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T18:53:01.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5289" CreationDate="2011-10-12T21:34:26.063" Score="3" ViewCount="5068" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a mead with OG ~1.12 and it stopped bubbling at an FG ~1.05.  It is undrinkably sweet.  I used champagne yeast, and was expecting a much lower FG.  Should I re-inoculate the batch?  Alternatively, what does overly sweet mead mix well with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1770" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T00:07:46.500" Title="My mead is too sweet and stopped bubbling. Recommendations?" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5287" CreationDate="2011-10-12T22:11:19.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the antidote to a stalled fermentation is to re-pitch yeast.  If you're using dry yeast, make sure to re-hydrate the yeast properly. (Sugar is usually not necessary for reconstituting dry yeast, but the temperature of the water is very important.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how long was it stuck at 1.050? Is it possible that the yeast is still working on it, albeit slowly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T22:11:19.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5287" CreationDate="2011-10-12T23:49:14.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had stuck meads before.  Sometimes they can be tricky.. here's a couple tips&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Got a pH meter?  If so, check the pH.  A pH that is too low can stop a fermentation in it's tracks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the tempiture of the must?  Ideal fermentation temp is around 60 degrees F.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What was your starting gravity?  Did the yeast meet it's alcohol thresehold?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repitch.  This time.. do it with a yeast starter.  Slowly add some of the must to it before you toss the entire starter in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meadmadecomplicated.org/mead_making/troubleshooting/stuck_fermentation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; on mead made complicated about stuck fermentation.  There is lots of good information on on gotmead.com about stuck fermentations too (including a few of my own posts)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastEditorUserId="1772" LastEditDate="2011-10-13T00:07:46.500" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T00:07:46.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5287" CreationDate="2011-10-12T23:53:24.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had sweet mead mixed with raspberry or chocolate before that was pretty tasty in both cases. This was done by adding the unsweetened raspberries or bitter chocolate to take the edge off the sweetness in the original mead. I could imagine tart cherries working as well. Oregon Fruit is a good source for both unsweetened fruits in cans and is found in many grocery stores and wine brewing supply shops. Trader Joe's has the best prices for bittersweet/high % cacao bars that have low or no preservatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-13T00:06:55.347" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T00:06:55.347" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5293" CreationDate="2011-10-13T00:09:47.997" Score="2" ViewCount="461" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does one typically blend their meads &amp;amp; wines?  Do I need to worry about layering because of different S.G. levels or ABV levels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-10-13T12:17:55.797" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T12:17:55.797" Title="How do you blend your meads/wines?" Tags="|wine|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5276" CreationDate="2011-10-13T00:14:25.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking your fermentation is probably just crippling along now.. and adding more sugar may just make them stressed out..and potentially cause off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But really...&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I think this really depends on what your goal is here.  If you goal is to increase the ABV.. then you can consider adding more sugar.  If it did not take off.. and you want more ABV, then you'll have to make a yeast starter and get those yeastie beasties healthy again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you goal is to sweeten&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you will want the fermentation to die out &amp;amp; finish naturally.  Then you'll ant to stabilize with potassium sorbate &amp;amp; campden tablets.  Given it a day or two.. then backsweeten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T00:14:25.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2011-10-13T00:19:07.473" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never had a problem with layering when I blended, but both &quot;brews&quot; were within 0.010 spec grav of each other. Blending each at a relatively high temperature (100&lt;sup&gt;o&lt;/sup&gt; F) should help reduce any layering. After the mixture is made (and homogeneous), there shouldn't be any separation. I've made quite a few mixtures of two liquids at significantly different spec grav in my career and warming seemed to reduce any separation on cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, you are mixing two solutions of alcohol and water and ethanol has one of the largest suitabilities in water. Vigorous swirling of the warmed &quot;brews&quot; should do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;some additional info: Elevating temperature increases the kinetic energy of the molecules (in this case) and also increases the distance between the molecules. This allows other molecules, especially large bulky flavenoids, to more easily fit in the spaces between the molecules (solubility). Specific gravity is a measure of relative density (can be thought of as molecules per unit volume though the formal def is weight per volume) and when two liquids have very different densities, they will not mix easily unless mechanically stirred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-13T02:29:36.470" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T02:29:36.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2011-10-13T00:31:55.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There will be zero layering.  You are combining two water based solutions, they mix completely as mixed.  Gravity is meaningless in this example as is temperature.  Ethanol is completely dissolved in the water component of mead and cider.  Remember too that mead, cider, wine and beer are mostly water!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just blend away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T00:31:55.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5259" CreationDate="2011-10-13T21:26:15.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a FWH and a flame out one time. I didn't care for it. It was odd lacking in flavor with the aroma there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1775" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T21:26:15.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5302" CreationDate="2011-10-13T23:44:55.050" Score="9" ViewCount="1282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to create a recipe (or recipes) that is fairly cheap and will serve as a session beer that I can drink when I just want a beer in the evening, and I'm not particularly choosy about what it is.  I'm not looking to be more economical than Keystone Light, but hops and specialty grains can get expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which are the cheaper sessionable styles to brew?  (sessionable to me means between about 4.5% and 5.5% abv, and easy on the palate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T13:41:41.253" Title="Suggestions for cheap recipes" Tags="|beer|ingredients|recipe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2011-10-14T00:32:23.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For wine bottles.. we use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003D64XOC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wine Cellar Bottle Tags&lt;/a&gt;.  It's nice to be able to read what you have shelved without pulling all your bottles out trying to find the one you are looking for.  They sell cheap disposable paper ones &amp;amp; reusable dry-erase style ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T00:32:23.930" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5296" CreationDate="2011-10-14T00:38:54.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bets are going to be try checking out some of the homebrewing websites and browse for beer kits, and list them in descending order for price.  Find something you like, and roll with it.  Clones tend to be more expensive... be on your guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be a bit more creatives you can save a TON of money by buying in bulk. Your biggest money savings would be from buying a huge bag of DME, and then just buying specialty grains for whatever particular recipe you want to make. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-10-14T13:35:26.003" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T13:35:26.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5389" CreationDate="2011-10-14T00:51:14.150" Score="3" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want the answers to be geared towards meads/wines if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be so many things to measure.  Which are the ones that really matter?  I've started spending a lot of time taking all these measurements.  If all are important, how often do I need to take each one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measurements that I see as important&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S.G.  - Specific Gravity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pH&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TA - total acid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Free s02&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-10-14T13:46:05.880" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T12:39:40.610" Title="What exactly should I measure while brewing?" Tags="|equipment|wine|mead|specific-gravity|measurements|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5296" CreationDate="2011-10-14T02:34:50.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd look into buying some brewing software and &quot;Brewing Classic Styles&quot;.  You can use the recipes in the book for baseline &quot;known good&quot; recipes, and use the brewing software to play around with values and substitute grains to make your own recipes.   The book will also give you breakdowns of the various styles, so you can see which ones fit your tastes and ABV requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T02:34:50.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2011-10-14T05:01:36.113" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bottlemark.com/&quot;&gt;custom bottle caps&lt;/a&gt;. They are really cheap and you can design whatever you want and have it printed on them. They also make for good stocking stuffers for any home brewing friend/family members.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastEditorUserId="1279" LastEditDate="2011-10-16T12:58:01.443" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T12:58:01.443" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5296" CreationDate="2011-10-14T13:41:41.253" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ordinary Bitter, Mild, Dry Stout, Irish Red.  These styles are generally lower OG and use little hops.  The ABVs are generally under 5.5%.  And these four styles all use the same base malt.  Therefore you can maximize your savings purchasing a full sack of base malt.  After that you can just get specialty malts as needed; and these styles provide a good variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get away with the same english yeast strain for these too.  So if you plan to brew regularly enough you can harvest yeast from one batch for the next saving yet another $6-$8/batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T13:41:41.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5304" CreationDate="2011-10-14T13:48:08.157" Score="5" ViewCount="814" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had my first bottle bomb last night which made a pretty good mess in the closet and now I am nervous about the rest of the bottles from that batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I open all the bottles from that batch to remove the risk of more exploding?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q2b9w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottle Bomb&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T12:05:19.673" Title="Bottle Bomb Batch" Tags="|bottles|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5303" CreationDate="2011-10-14T15:39:16.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally would not open all the bottles. But I would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have the space I would get them into the fridge ASAP. This will slow the yeast down so you wont get much more pressure than you have now. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would also plan to drink them soon. Time to throw a home brew party!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be careful opening them as they will likely foam up and out of the bottle. Open the cap just a bit and let it vent, then a little more. I did this with root beer one time, opened them quickly, and almost had it on the ceiling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T15:39:16.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-14T20:12:28.480" Score="3" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my latest batch I ended up with a stuck mash due to me mis-assembling the false bottom. To solve this, I transferred the mash to a bucket, fixed the false bottom, put the mash back in the MLT and lautered as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before transferring the mash, the wort was clear. After transferring the mash, the wort was very cloudy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This cloudiness carried over into the boil and I ended up with the most trub-filled batch I've ever made. Normally I'll get 2-3 quarts of trub in a 6 gallon batch. In this batch I got almost 6 quarts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did transferring the wort cause this excessive trub? If so, how? And how could I avoid this problem in the future. (other than always assembling the false bottom correctly, obviously)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there really are two problems here: a super-cloudy wort and a trub-filled wort. They might not be related. The grist was 40% American 2-row, which is not an ingredient I normally use. Based on the massive kreusen I'm seeing in the fermenter, I'm guessing that the 2-row contributed &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of protein to this beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the 2-row probably contributed to the excessive trub in the beer as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastEditorUserId="758" LastEditDate="2011-10-16T13:58:04.257" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T13:58:04.257" Title="What are the effects of transferring a mash before lautering?" Tags="|mash|trub|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5305" CreationDate="2011-10-14T23:47:16.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an odd one for sure.  Maybe an extended recirc would have been called for.  I have been in this situation before too, but never had an excess of trub.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have THE answer you are looking for, so I'll pose an answer to get the answer.  There are many pro-scale brewers that mash and lauter in separate vessels. They tend to mash with a thin mash and then pump the mash from the Mash tun to a Lauter tun.  This helps with overall brew-house efficiency time wise because they can start a new mash, as the first mash lauters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say the answer is to shoot some emails to local breweries in your area asking them about their mash/lauter steps.  Describe your problem and ask if they know the cause.  You just might end up making some really good and cool connections in the process, and most pro-brewers recognize the key support that a healthy home-brewing community provides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry I don't have THE answer, but with all respect to the members of the site; I think you'll be lucky to get the real cause of that excessive trub with your lauter transfer conundrum. Kickass question though.  I'd up vote 3 times if I could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T23:47:16.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="206" CreationDate="2011-10-15T01:14:12.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have a bottle-cleaning attachment to my faucet that shoots a jet of water up into the bottle, which I've found removes all but the worst sediment. It works great!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T01:14:12.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5271" CreationDate="2011-10-15T01:34:50.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a starter kit from Midwest brewing and expanded it a little at a time. It was a groupon and a good deal. I have made some very good beer with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T01:34:50.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5313" CreationDate="2011-10-15T13:47:29.233" Score="3" ViewCount="4758" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of adding a ball valve to my brew kettle and am designing a diptube to transfer wort to my primary. I've always brewed in 5-gallon batches so picking up the kettle and dumping it has never been a problem, but I would like to automate this process as much as possible and am wondering if I can just rely on gravity to drain the kettle as long as the kettle is higher than the primary vessel or whether I will need a pump to automate the entire process. I understand that this pump is not self-priming so I would to siphon enough to fill the pump to get it started, but that it would be able to drain the kettle much quicker once started. Speed is not that big of an issue at this point, but being able to drain all of the wort is a priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, can I rely on gravity to drain the kettle after the ball valve is opened or must I use gravity &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; a pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2011-10-16T01:02:38.120" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T18:43:16.830" Title="Transferring wort from brew kettle with ball valve" Tags="|process|siphon|pump|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5325" CreationDate="2011-10-15T14:06:29.817" Score="5" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently built a hop spider and am having great results. Could it also serve in the same capacity to steep specialty grains. Paint strainers are a bit more expensive than muslin bags, but are reusable. Also there's no need to tie the bag to anything when using the spider. Cost savings isn't a primary concern, but I would like to understand if I might have another option than always needing to have muslin bags handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-10-16T18:35:42.690" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T18:37:58.863" Title="Using a hop spider for steeping specialty grains" Tags="|process|steeping|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="254" CreationDate="2011-10-15T14:20:25.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little late to the party, but the best one I've used is &lt;a href=&quot;http://ibrewmaster.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iBrewMaster&lt;/a&gt;. It's currently  available for $7.99 for the iPod/iPhone edition and $10.99 for the iPad edition. Rather than regurgitate all the features, take a look in the iTunes store &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ibrewmaster/id315820829?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ibrewmaster-ipad-edition/id363957954?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for more details. Overall, it has worked the best for me in managing the process from start to finish. I especially like the alerts functionality when I have multiple batches going at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T14:20:25.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5309" CreationDate="2011-10-15T15:46:28.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a racking cane and gravity for 3 years worth of brewing, and it worked just fine.   I don't see any reason you couldn't rely on gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be slower than a pump, but you're looking at 3-5 minutes to fill the fermentor, rather than less than 1 with a pump, basically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T15:46:28.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5309" CreationDate="2011-10-15T15:52:45.847" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the only purpose for the pump is draining the boil kettle, it might be wise to avoid the complexity (and one more thing to clean), because gravity will certainly work to transfer your wort to the fermentation vessel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that there is an incomplete transfer of wort.  The volume depends on how far the ball valve is from the bottom of the kettle (even if the pick-up is lower).  What I do is put a length of silicone tube on the output of the boil kettle and submerse that in the fermenter.  This way, it siphons more wort, because without the tube, it breaks the siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use gravity and reduce cost, complexity, and cleaning! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T15:52:45.847" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5334" CreationDate="2011-10-15T16:25:30.467" Score="6" ViewCount="2488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to buy some pasteurized, natural, no preservatives added cider and throw some honey in it to bump up the gravity.  I plan on pitching some pretty voracious yeast, so figure any bacteria in the honey has little chance, but I wanted to check with the wealth of experience from this site.  What are my chances of having an issue with the bacteria in the honey? (me: first time cider, long time beer).  When I add honey to beer, I throw it in as late as possible so as not to drive off the aromatics.  So although I could heat the honey before using it in cider, I'd rather not, and keep more of the honey's aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T20:14:24.193" Title="Is it necessary to heat honey when using it in cider?" Tags="|cider|bacteria|honey|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5303" CreationDate="2011-10-15T16:35:11.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would open another one from the same batch, and if it's a &lt;em&gt;gusher&lt;/em&gt;, then I would conclude that action is necessary for all bottles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold crash them in the fridge overnight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gently/carefully loosen (don't remove) each cap.  It will foam up and &lt;em&gt;gush&lt;/em&gt; for a while.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-crimp the cap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that after a few days, the bottles are still &lt;em&gt;gushers&lt;/em&gt; when chilled, and you would need to repeat the cap loosening process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T16:35:11.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5316" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-15T20:51:29.150" Score="6" ViewCount="4093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that beer should keep in a cask for months, but does that only apply if left full? How long do I have to finish once I start drinking from it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1781" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T14:06:47.197" Title="Will beer keep in a cask if used gradually?" Tags="|beer|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5316" CreationDate="2011-10-16T02:21:28.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cask beer will last a long time (&lt;em&gt;months&lt;/em&gt;), especially if it's a higher gravity beer.  But once you tap a cask, you only have a few &lt;em&gt;days&lt;/em&gt; to drink it before it will begin to display signs of oxidation (which is basically &quot;spoiling&quot;).  I've had cask beer after 12 or 18 hours, and it was already no good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that for every cc of beer you pull out, a cc of air will need to be pulled into the head space of the cask.  That's not quite 100% true at the beginning (just after it's tapped), when some CO2 will come out of solution so that no air needs to be added into the head space.  But after that, every pint of beer means a pint of air that will spoil your cask beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, rather than use a cask, you use a system that dispenses with CO2, then you can drink off that keg for a month with no noticeable degradation in beer quality.  If you want to get out cheap, you can keg into 6 liter bottles that have CO2 on the tap (see this you tube video about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bum3TR4JEUE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Bottling A Five Gallon Batch into Three 6 Liter MillerCoors Bottles&quot;&gt;Bottling A Five Gallon Batch into Three 6 Liter MillerCoors Bottles&lt;/a&gt;).  Not your question, so I'll stop with this line of answering, but it is related in that it does what I think you want to do...drink longer off one batch of beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-10-18T14:06:47.197" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T14:06:47.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5271" CreationDate="2011-10-16T02:52:24.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've upvoted a 'real' answer, but if you want to save some money on a chiller, you can make one pretty easily.  You would need a propane torch and solder, but even if you have to buy those items, it's still pretty cheap.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwiW3aSM7Yo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This video &lt;/a&gt; shows you how you can make one.  It will shorten your brew day, which is something that some brewers value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T02:52:24.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5314" CreationDate="2011-10-16T03:30:10.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honey is usually processed before use to remove wild yeasts, not bacteria. They can contribute to off flavors but will probably be out competed if you pitch vigorous yeasts. If you are worried you can heat the honey-water to 170ish and leave it there for 15 minutes, that should take care of any microbes without driving off much flavor. I would be interested to know how it goes if you don't do any processing though, I have been considering trying this myself. I wouldn't be worried too much about infection, as I know sometimes mead is made with only the wild yeasts that occur in the honey (but this can be highly variable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T03:30:10.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5271" CreationDate="2011-10-16T06:49:37.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you feel about making the switch to all grain? If you're up for it, it's cheap and easy to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;convert a water cooler into mash tun&lt;/a&gt;. All-grain is a bit tricky at first, but once you're used to it you'll get a superior beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1774" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T06:49:37.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5323" CreationDate="2011-10-16T14:34:11.253" Score="4" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;An Belgian Tripel recipe has caught my eye, but it looks like an imperial style.  OG is estimated at 1.100+, and final abv is close to 11.5%.  I'm planning on a Wyeast Belgian Ardennes yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to split the brew-day into at least two days; starting with a lesser volume medium-gravity wort to pitch the yeast into, then adding the sum of the wort and fermentables at high krausen, after the yeast have really taken hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this approach the best way to ensure healthy fermentation in this high gravity wort?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What alternatives are out there--and their pros/cons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other aspects should I be concerned with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T16:18:55.597" Title="What can I do to ensure my high OG wort ferments well?" Tags="|fermentation|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5322" CreationDate="2011-10-16T16:13:40.027" Score="5" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxygenate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot;&gt;proper amount of yeast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep it at a steady temperature. For Ardennes I'd recommend starting around 66-68 for at least two days then ramping up to 70-72 until fermentation is done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have up to 20% of your fermentables come from sugar, not malt. This is normal for Tripels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the main things. A good tripel recipe is designed to make a dry beer. If you're doing all-grain, you can dry it out further by using a lower mash temp, 148 - 149 F is common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your plan, I think it's a bit excessive. Here's an alternative that gets you pretty much the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you start your boil, pull off 1 quart of wort. We'll call this your Pitching Wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil the Pitching Wort (in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/1000-ml-erlenmeyer-flask.html&quot;&gt;flask&lt;/a&gt; if you have one) for 10 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover and cool your Pitching Wort to 70 degrees. If you didn't boil the wort in a flask, transfer it to a sanitized growler that you cover with sanitized aluminum foil or airlock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take your yeast starter (or your packs of yeast, if not using a starter) and add them to the Pitching Wort. Seal with an airlock or sanitized aluminum foil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch the whole thing into your main wort once it's chilled, oxygenated and in the carboy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By creating a pitching wort from your main wort, you get the yeast active and you get them used to the wort that they'll be eating. It's great for starting a healthy, thorough fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T16:13:40.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5322" CreationDate="2011-10-16T16:18:55.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nearly any yeast will ferment out a 12% ABV beer.  The Ardennes yeast especially should have no trouble.  I have never found it necessary to do incremental additions to the fermenter for a high OG beer.  Just be certain that you pitch the right amount of healthy yeast, oxygenate/aerate well, and make a fermentable wort.  That means a long, low temp mash, and since it's a tripel, 20-25% of a very fermentable sugar, like table sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T16:18:55.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5310" CreationDate="2011-10-16T18:37:58.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course it can, its the same thing as using a free floating muslin bag.&#xA;I once brewed at a &quot;Brew on Premise&quot; place and they used larger stainless steel sleeves to dunk in and out of the heating wort.  As long as you get good flow in and around the grain, then it should work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T18:37:58.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5309" CreationDate="2011-10-16T18:43:16.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will work fine by gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the amount of wort you get out of the kettle is dependent upon the geometry of your pots bottom, and how your pick up tube is positioned in the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T18:43:16.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-16T23:14:32.310" Score="4" ViewCount="2306" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a fair amount you can get away without doing when using extract in brewing, since the extract has already gone through most of the process before being packaged (e.g. no need to boil off DMS).  Yet in Palmer's book, he still does the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter7-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rapid wort cooling process&lt;/a&gt; in the extract section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it always needed?  Can it be skipped in any circumstances?  If so, what? (e.g. using extract + steeped grains, extract only, pale malts)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I usually partially boil extract (+ specialty grains) and have had no problems just pouring the boiling wort into my bucket and chilling by topping up with cooler water.  Have I just been lucky or is this OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T12:50:10.327" Title="Is rapid wort chilling always needed?" Tags="|cold-crash|cooling|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5329" CreationDate="2011-10-17T05:02:13.580" Score="6" ViewCount="4090" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually bottle home brew into 750ml bottles, and less commonly into 375ml bottles. I have a two-ended sugar spoon which is for priming these, and it's obvious which spoon head goes with which bottle (full spoon, half spoon). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have collected a number of 500ml bottles and I wonder if I need to get the in-between proportion right for the priming sugar, or can I just pick one or the other safely? Should I use the half spoon for a 500ml since it's closer to 375ml than 750ml, or the full spoon? Should I get more spoons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it matter? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="736" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T22:11:09.457" Title="How precise must the measure of priming sugar be?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5328" CreationDate="2011-10-17T11:16:07.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has to be pretty accurate, atleast within the general area. Priming a 500ml bottle with the same amount as an 750ml bottle will definately affect the outcome. That's 1.5 times as much sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't see why you do it that way at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I prime my bottles, I weigh out an appropriate amount of sugar - say 150 grams for 25l. Then I get a deciliter of the beer, or water if I'm lazy and dissolve the sugar in it. Over heat if necessary. Then I just pour it into my fermenter and mix thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this assumes you can rack to a secondary fermenter so you don't disturb the trub. This is no problem for me, I'd recommend you get a fermenter and mount a tap on it - makes bottling that much easier, if you use a &quot;bottling tube&quot;. If you've already got that set up, then just follow the preceding paragraph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T11:16:07.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5327" CreationDate="2011-10-17T11:28:06.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my limited experience it seems that extract does not benefit as readily from cold breaking as all-grain. In my first brew, I did exactly as you do and topped off with water. Either malt extract has a lower amount of these cold-break proteins or the procedure caused the proteins to precipitate out of the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time of my next brew, I had built myself an immersion chiller, and being fall in Stockholm the water was down to 9 degrees celsius - about 48 degrees fahrenheit, so it didn't take more than three minutes to cool my puny partial boil stove top down to about 17 degrees celsius. I've noticed no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say before you worry about cooling you should atleast be doing full boils. I'd bet the better hop utilization and lessening of malt &quot;caramelization&quot; would do much more to improve your beer than the cooler would at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And after you go full boil, you pretty much need a cooler anyway :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T11:28:06.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5303" CreationDate="2011-10-17T12:05:19.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First.. you need to know why you these are bottle bombs.  This probably happened because of one of three reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Early bottling before fermenation is finished&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infection.. something has gone South with the recipe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overpriming &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tell is the fermentation kicked back up by checking the suspected final gravity, to what the current specific gravity is.  If it is is infected, it should have off tastes/smells.  If neither of those, it's probably over primed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Regardless of the reason, you need to be VERY careful&lt;/strong&gt;.  Wear safety goggles, a heavy shirt(s), and work gloves while handling these.  I agree with the other posts in here, cold crash these.  After they have been kept cold for 24-48 hours, slowly open each bottle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you believe the bottle bomb is because of early bottling, put it back into a fermentor.. allow fermentation to finish out.  Reprime &amp;amp; bottle when you are ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's because it's over primed, pour the beer back into the bottling bucket, allow it to become flat, reprime, and rebottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T12:05:19.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5327" CreationDate="2011-10-17T14:04:13.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really, it's about aroma vs. flavoring or bittering hops. The longer it takes for your wort to cool, the more those late hop additions turn from aroma hops to flavoring (and to some extent bittering) hops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For less hoppy styles, this obviously isn't as big an issue, but if you want to make an IPA or APA with that hop &quot;nose&quot; you'll want to cool quickly. Obviously, dry hopping will help that nose, but so will quickly cooling the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T14:04:13.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5314" CreationDate="2011-10-17T14:29:16.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not not (yet) done what you are planning to do, but I would heat the cider and honey to a pastuerizing heat (I think about 63 Celcius should do for honey but I'm not sure about cider; you don't need to bring it to a full boil). Honey dissolves easier when it's hotter and it will also pasteurize your must before you pitch. I usually do this when making mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to pasteurize, then you could just put your jar of honey into a bowl of hot water for about 10 minutes. I doubt it gets hot enough to destroy any flavours that are damaged by high temperatures, but it will warm the honey just enough to pour and dissolve easier (I also do this when making mead, just so that it pours easier and faster). Warming the cider will also probably help with dissolving the honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2011-10-17T15:04:44.677" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T15:04:44.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5314" CreationDate="2011-10-17T14:41:57.013" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is not necessary.  In fact, many argue that it's much better to not heat it, as pasturizing the honey often time strips the honey of it's aroma &amp;amp; heat-sensitive aromatics.  I would add the unfermented cider and the honey and stir it like crazy with sanitized spoon or other mixing device.   Much like the &quot;no-heat&quot; meadmaking method.   This will help integrate the honey, and you won't have to worry about getting everything back down to pitching temperature.  I've made several batches of mead this way and have had no problem with bacteria-related off-flavors.   At a healthy pitching rate, the Saccharomyces will out-compete just about everything in the must, and the high alcohol and low pH will prevent most of what's left from getting a foothold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="1772" LastEditDate="2011-10-27T14:54:40.587" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T14:54:40.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5316" CreationDate="2011-10-17T15:52:10.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Untapped casks can be stored for extended periods of times as long and the bungs are secure and they are not leaking.  If you would like to enjoy drinking the beer over an extended period of time you will have to use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/kegging/beer-engines/cask-supplies/aspirator-valve.html&quot;&gt;aspirator valve&lt;/a&gt; in your system set up.  What this does is keep a small amount of CO2 pressure in the head space so the beer is not exposed to O2.  The pressure is low enough not to increase the existing co2 in solution but will allow for extended serving.  This can be installed in an existing co2 line and works independent of the regulator pressure.  Thus you can have your regulator set at whatever pressure you need to serve regular kegs and the valve will restrict the pressure to about 1psi going into the cask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T15:52:10.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5314" CreationDate="2011-10-17T16:31:35.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally would be too worried about bacteria in the honey.  I would be worried about the cider having wild yeast and bacteria from the pressing process.  I recommend adding potassium metabisulfite or campden tablets(~50-75ppm) the cider 24-48 hours before you intend to pitch your yeast.  This will take care of the bacteria and yeast and you should be able to add the honey without heating it just before you pitch the yeast or if you are concerned you could add the honey when you add the sulfite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T16:31:35.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5338" CreationDate="2011-10-17T20:31:09.127" Score="4" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a silly mistake using a wine degasser to aerate my wort.  After cooling the wort I aerated in the brew-kettle, with trub/hot-break still present, rather than racking to a carboy before aerating.  When racking there was still a fair amount of trub, but I'm sure some of the finer particles were still suspended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now 72 hours into fermentation, and just realized my mistake.  My question is whether there are any actions I can take which will help offset the mistake.  Aside from cold-crashing before bottling I'm unsure of what other options I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What options would be available to help offset the effects of the extra trub (additives, extra steps, etc), and what are their pros and cons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2011-10-19T04:24:59.707" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T04:24:59.707" Title="Are there any particular steps to fixing a batch of beer with extra trub / hot-break, or should it settle (as best as possible) on its own?" Tags="|beer|clarity|aeration|trub|mistakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5337" CreationDate="2011-10-17T21:09:17.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trub will settle naturally as the beer finished fermentation.  Don't worry about it.  Especially don't try to &quot;fix&quot; it now.  That often results in more problems than you originally had.  There has been at least one test I know of using wort with trub vs. wort with trub removed.  The beer was a pilsner and the conclusion was that the beer with the trub left in was actually clearer and better tasting than the one with the trub removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="758" LastEditDate="2011-10-18T17:50:31.900" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T17:50:31.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5340" CreationDate="2011-10-17T21:24:31.187" Score="3" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wine degasser, which is a bit like an egg-beater for a power drill.  It aerates wort extremely well but I don't have a good rule of thumb for how to tell when enough is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Favor a high-rpm, relatively violent &quot;whipping&quot; of the air into the wort--or should I less violent vortex at a lower speed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long should I aerate for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any good/bad signs I should keep an eye out for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T21:47:50.743" Title="What are the best practices for using a wine degasser to aerate wort for beer?" Tags="|beer|aeration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5339" CreationDate="2011-10-17T21:47:50.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The whole purpose is to get air into the wort, so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAGsl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is especially true for a carboy, where there's a smaller opening (so not a lot of wild yeast and bacteria can get in).  But even in an open fermentation bucket, as long as you're not splashing it out of there, give it as much as you can, then pitch plenty of yeast, and any wild bugs won't stand a chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how long, you get the most aeration done the first few seconds, and then the rate at which O2 is picked-up from the air falls-off pretty quickly.  I usually go for 45 seconds to a minute, which is what I've seen two or three other brewers do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only bad sign of low oxygen is a stalled fermentation.  I don't know of anything directly observable that would tell you that you need more aeration.  It's impossible to over-aerate when using air (not the case with pure O2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T21:47:50.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5328" CreationDate="2011-10-17T22:11:09.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, I'd say get more spoons for several reasons.  First, the two sizes you have means that you will get the same number of volumes of CO2 in your beer, no matter the style.  So your brewery will deliver, for instance, a stout and a saison that have the same carbonation level.  And then the second, obvious reason is that you'll have a spoon sized to the new intermediate bottle size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To decide how much priming sugar you need, you can put &quot;priming sugar calculator&quot; into your favorite search engine and use one of those.  You will need to know how many volumes of CO2 is appropriate for the style.  And you will probably need to do some math and a few conversions to get it down to a measuring spoon scale.  By the way, you can type something like &quot;2 cups in cc&quot; into Google and get &quot;2 US cups = 473.176473 cc&quot;. It's like magic! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned by Max, you could save on the detailed measurement by bottle by priming the entire batch at once.  But that is not your question.  I understand that it might be more of a pain to have an additional racking operation (which also opens up oxygenation and contamination risk), besides needing to buy or at least cleaning another vessel, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T22:11:09.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5344" CreationDate="2011-10-17T22:46:53.840" Score="6" ViewCount="19693" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that a &quot;12 oz bottle&quot; means that the bottle filled to the brim holds 12 ounces then how many ounces do most breweries put in a bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the difference between the bottle size and actual amount stay constant, regardless of bottle-size (e.g. assuming a 12 oz bottle has 11 oz of content, would a 22 oz bottle have 21 oz), or is it a ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or: if a beer bottle &lt;em&gt;holds&lt;/em&gt; twelve ounces in a normal fill, then what is the actual capacity of the bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2011-10-18T13:29:28.487" LastActivityDate="2023-10-13T10:03:23.570" Title="How many ounces of beer are in the typical 12oz bottle?" Tags="|bottling|bottles|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5342" CreationDate="2011-10-18T11:58:16.150" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say they hold 12oz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I can't speak for the rest of the world, here in Oz bottles are labelled according to the quantity of the product you're paying for.  If you buy a bottle of beer (with the beer in it) that says &quot;375mL&quot; and it's only half full, containing say 200mL, you get your money back.  If the vendor is doing this on a large scale, we have government controlled organisations that will bust some ass for misleading consumers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be different for a store that sells empty, unused bottles with a &lt;em&gt;capacity&lt;/em&gt; of XYZ mL/oz, but I doubt it.  You'd likely get away with calling them misleading if they did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got doubt about your bottles, measure out 12oz of water, pour it into an empty bottle and see where it gets to.  Post your results back here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T11:58:16.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5342" CreationDate="2011-10-18T13:53:59.623" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottle I just checked has a tiny 13 imprinted in the mold, and filled to overflowing, it held 13 fl. oz.   It appears that a 12oz bottle of beer is a 13oz bottle with 12 oz of beer in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T13:53:59.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5346" CreationDate="2011-10-19T20:23:20.380" Score="8" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm from the UK and only really work in metric. Im having a bit of trouble converting &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.britishbrewer.com/2009/12/recipe-chiswick-esb-version-1-0/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; recipe into metric. In brewing does a &quot;gallon&quot; mean the imperial or american gallon? (23L or 18L)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T21:36:16.130" Title="Size of a &quot;Gallons&quot; in recipes" Tags="|measurements|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5345" CreationDate="2011-10-19T21:36:16.130" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It refers to American gallons.  5 gal.=18.92L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T21:36:16.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5555" CreationDate="2011-10-20T01:46:37.507" Score="5" ViewCount="599" Body="&lt;p&gt;My double IPA when poured into a glass has a thick foamy head that remains there the entire time I drink it. Is this good or bad? The beer tastes great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T03:09:58.550" Title="Thick head on Double IPA" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2805" CreationDate="2011-10-20T03:46:34.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using this recipe and making about about a liter at a time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeffreymorgenthaler.com/2008/how-to-make-your-own-ginger-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jeffreymorgenthaler.com/2008/how-to-make-your-own-ginger-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty good but it's not like Reed's, it's way dryer. Next time I do it I'm going to try adding pineapple juice and lime juice, maybe instead of or in addition to the sugar, because it should be sweeter. Also may let it ferment for 24 instead of 48 hours because after 48 it has been overcarbonated and I feel like you can taste a little alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using Red Star Champagne yeast and a glass 1-liter flip top bottle, but a plastic bottle would work fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T03:46:34.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5327" CreationDate="2011-10-20T03:58:34.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to invest in a wort chiller, another trick to cool down fast and cheap is to use ice that has been made in sanitized containers with lids. I got some cheap quart-sized food containers (ziplock I think) and the night before brew day I sanitize them w/Starsan, fill with water and freeze. Then you'll have some giant, clean ice cubes you can toss in there and they'll cool it down a lot fast than cold water alone. I just got an immersion chiller but I'm still using these ice cubes too, because it's easy and free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T03:58:34.350" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-20T04:02:16.747" Score="1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to start a wine co-op for vineyards and winemakers in my local area. There isn't one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea would be:&#xA; - Help each other with growing problems, tips.&#xA; - Share cost/expense of equipement.&#xA; - Group discounts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips on how to start such a thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1785" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T04:02:16.747" Title="Starting a wine co-op" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-10-21T00:26:41.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5327" CreationDate="2011-10-20T05:18:47.290" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I chill by a spiral, which I put in the wort and there is a cold water streaming through the spiral. 12 gallons of worth is chilled in 2 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T05:18:47.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2805" CreationDate="2011-10-20T14:05:46.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made this one and like it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/recipes-ginger-beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/recipes-ginger-beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T14:05:46.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5327" CreationDate="2011-10-20T14:18:42.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope.   Lambics are traditionally chilled overnight in large shallow tanks, so that the various micro-organisms can land in them and get a nice foothold going before the wort is moved to a fermentation vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though, if you're not intending to do a multi-culture, open fermentation, you'd probably be better served by chilling quickly, due to the concerns mentioned in various other answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T14:18:42.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5347" CreationDate="2011-10-20T15:37:12.707" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very hoppy beers often have increased foam and retention.  The polyphenols in the hops bind the proteins in the beer to create fantastic foam.  It's generally considered a very good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T15:37:12.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="220" CreationDate="2011-10-21T14:21:48.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your method looks correct.   You may want to overcarbonate the beer by 2-5 PSI, and raise the keg pressure to around 5 PSI when bottling.   Slightly overcarbonating will help ensure that there's still a good amount of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in suspension after you lose some from the bottling process.  You may need to play with the keg pressure a little to balance bottling speed and foam production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T14:21:48.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5362" CreationDate="2011-10-21T21:59:24.467" Score="5" ViewCount="2134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm confused. What are the major pros/cons between HERMS and RIMS brewing systems? I've read about both, but can't seem to come to a conclusion on why one would choose one over the other. Is it the amount of fine-grained control the brewer has over the process, simplicity, equipment or quality of the beer? Like most things, I'm guessing that it's a matter of tradeoffs, but as someone who is thinking about going all-grain, I'd like to understand the tradeoffs better before I make a decision to invest in any equipment or implement a new process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2011-10-22T03:15:33.937" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T21:17:00.743" Title="HERMS or RIMS - How to choose?" Tags="|equipment|all-grain|process|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2127" CreationDate="2011-10-22T16:11:03.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can start brewing all grain easily with my &quot;Cheap'n'Easy&quot; system.  I've been using it for 407 batches now.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dennybrew.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.dennybrew.com&lt;/a&gt; for info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-10-26T02:09:39.527" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T02:09:39.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5360" CreationDate="2011-10-22T16:14:11.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A RIMS (Recirculating Infusion Mash System) passes the wort directly over a heating element to achieve temp changes.  A HERMS (Heat Exchange Recirculating Mash System) passes the wort through a coll submerged in water to do the same thing.  Although temp steps may be a bit slower, you don't have the risk of scorching that you do in a RIMS. Probably 90+% of beers can be made with a single infusion, but if you really want to do a step mash they'll (somewhat) simplify the process.  Neither system is necessary for making great beer, but if you have the $$ and the urge, go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-10-22T19:07:01.957" LastActivityDate="2011-10-22T19:07:01.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5364" CreationDate="2011-10-23T12:26:52.133" Score="2" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am buying some malt extract for my next brew. Im tempted by cheap DME as its a third of the price of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Weyermann__b.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;specialist LME&lt;/a&gt; specified by the recipe. How much of a difference would that make to the final brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Cheap DME link is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005KRFNS2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005KRFNS2/&lt;/a&gt; SE seems to overwrite .co.uk to .com for amazon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-10-25T01:18:40.560" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T14:05:08.870" Title="How much difference does malt make in extract brewing?" Tags="|extract|malt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5363" CreationDate="2011-10-23T13:50:17.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fresh, good quality ingredients will always make a better tasting beer.   That doesn't always mean that the more expensive item is better.   A 5-year old jug of LME is probably going to make a crappy tasting beer, even if it's 4 times the price of the DME. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry malt extract has a much longer storage life, so depending on the turnover at your homebrew shop, the DME could be a better choice, though you may need to supplement with steeping grains or a minimash, if the LME that's called for has a more complex flavor profile (i.e. based on your LME link, use extra light DME and get some Carapils to steep).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fresh, the LME will be easier to deal with, though, since you wouldn't have to worry with the steeping grain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:  I would recommend purchasing your DME or LME from companies that specialise in creating brewing ingredients (Muntons, Weyermann, etc.), because their processes will be targeted at producing good flavors in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T13:50:17.800" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5368" CreationDate="2011-10-23T14:22:00.307" Score="5" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a bunch of hops growing about 3 hours away from me (at parent's house, which has much more land).  I went up one weekend, and they looked &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; ready, then I went up a month later and they were very overly ready.  They were mostly brown, and very papery.  They looked like the color of leaves you rake into bags in the fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon closer inspection, though, they still plenty of the yellow lupulin under the leaves, and I actually liked the taste of them more than when they were fresh.  More of an earthy flavor instead of floral/grassy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason why I shouldn't shouldn't use these hops?  I'm thinking of putting them in an imperial stout, so I'm kind of thinking the flavor might be a better match in their current state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T21:01:20.893" Title="Picking hops very late" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5367" CreationDate="2011-10-23T16:46:27.460" Score="3" ViewCount="795" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason to rinse the bag of specialty grains after steeping? I did this yesterday on a whim, thinking I would be able to extract as much of the sugars as possible. I used about 1qt. of hot'ish water directly into the brewpot and it seemed to work fine. At this point, I'm questioning my method since the water was not 170 degrees like the rest of the wort in the brewpot, but I guess it's a learning process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, should I take the time to rinse the specialty grains in the future? If so, should the water be the same temperature of the wort to be effective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2011-11-06T17:33:15.220" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T20:46:42.580" Title="Rinsing specialty grain bag after steeping" Tags="|process|steeping|specialty-grains|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5366" CreationDate="2011-10-23T18:42:09.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to do this.  Can't say that it really hurt or helped. I eventually started to just put the bag in an empty pot and started my boil in the main pot.  Then I'd add whatever came out of the bag into the boil later when I got around to it after the boil had gotten started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And unless there is base malt in the bag with your specialty grains its not a mash really.  Just steeping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T18:42:09.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5365" CreationDate="2011-10-23T18:58:07.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The glands may still appear yellow but the quality of the oils has likely degraded significantly and may take on a dank flavor profile.&#xA;The reason to not use these hops is because they aren't fresh enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T18:58:07.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5365" CreationDate="2011-10-23T21:01:20.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could make some &quot;hop tea&quot; out of your late harvest and something similar from the home brew store.  If you like the flavor of your late harvest hops, then go for it!  If, on the other hand, your sample doesn't do it for you, then don't risk a batch of beer on it.  This would be a pretty quick analysis; a little microwave action, steep and cool.  Well worth the time to save a batch of beer from some funky flavors you might just have to 'put up with' instead of enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T21:01:20.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5363" CreationDate="2011-10-23T21:06:01.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brand and even batch within brand (if the brand is not consistent) can indeed make quite a difference in the final product.  Ray Daniels, author of many brewing books, suggests an experiment where everything stays the same except the extract.  I've never done that experiment, but he suggests that it can make a big difference (I think that was in the 101 ideas book).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T21:06:01.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5360" CreationDate="2011-10-23T21:17:00.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question was RIMS or HERMS, but I agree that for someone thinking about going all grain, it should be, maybe, simple insulated mash tun, RIMS, or HERMS.  But sticking with your original either/or question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference to me would be the amount of caramelization; if you pass wort over a really hot heating element, it might have a carmelization effect (to the point of scorching, as Denny said), whereas if you passed wort through a heat exchanger that was (at the hottest), just barely over your target mash temp, then you would get less carmelization, and no risk of scorching.  That's not to say you can never avoid carmelization with RIMS; a decent rate of flow, and not too much energy on your element, you'd be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T21:17:00.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-24T00:24:28.050" Score="8" ViewCount="1067" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that French and American oaks have often been used to flavor wine. Are there any other types of wood that is suitable for this purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1360" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T18:37:38.933" Title="What woods besides oak have been used to flavor wine?" Tags="|oak|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5372" CreationDate="2011-10-24T10:39:23.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hungarian Oak gets used as well for barrel making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T10:39:23.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5327" CreationDate="2011-10-24T12:50:10.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Is chilling always needed?&quot; Absolutely not. Look into &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/#hl=en&amp;amp;sugexp=kjrmc&amp;amp;cp=10&amp;amp;gs_id=1d&amp;amp;xhr=t&amp;amp;q=No+Chill+Brewing&amp;amp;fp=3a5cf205a792e7d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;No Chill Brewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. However, it doesn't work all that well for beers with a lot of aroma hops. But for low/no hop aroma beers, it's a snap. I haven't chilled a beer in 20+ batches now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T12:50:10.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-24T19:39:15.427" Score="4" ViewCount="975" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going have a re-brew of an oatmeal porter recipe that came out really well. The only downside (for me) was that it effectively had zero head. How can I increase head retention but still get the smooth mouthfeel from the oats ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T16:58:39.717" Title="How to keep your head on an oatmeal porter?" Tags="|head-retention|oats|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5375" CreationDate="2011-10-24T21:20:32.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people will say to add protein laden ingredients, but you already have oatmeal in there.  Fermentation procedures are very important to head formation and retention.  See this article: &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/article/indices/35-head-retention/697-getting-good-beer-foam-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Getting Good Beer Foam: Techniques&lt;/a&gt;.  It would help to know the recipe, also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="981" LastEditDate="2011-10-24T22:58:23.053" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T22:58:23.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2127" CreationDate="2011-10-25T01:54:20.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's a great way to start brewing (full-disclosure: I started with kits).  The first few batches come with a steep learning curve, and a kit teaches you a lot about fermenting and bottling--it let's you brew without really having to brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're getting past your kits then the next step is quite easy--you'll probably want to try some all-extract recipes.  Extract is either liquid or dry, but in either case it's not pre-mixed like many kits are.  You'll need to brew for the full boil-time, adding hops at the right intervals, and in general you'll be more involved in brewing the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a couple basic all-extract recipes you can try steeping some specialty grains.  Steeping is putting a toe in the all-grain water.  You essentially make a teabag of grains and need to monitor the water temp during the steep/mash, but the grain-to-extract ratio is low, so you have quite a bit of leeway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you're comfortable with controlling your water temp and watching the clock then you're in good shape to try all-grain.  Start with a simple recipe; look into a no-sparge method (it requires less equipment and less precision--and can have better results, at the marginal extra cost of lost efficiency), and make beer--by this point you'll likely have no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall the key is to have fun and understand what you're doing--you don't have to know the chemistry, but a little confidence is always good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started brewing from Mr. Beer kits (2.5 gallon batches), after a batch or two I was hooked (and knew enough to move forward) so I decided to augment my kit with equipment that helped me with my small batches, but also would be necessary for 5 gallon batches.  I bought racking equipment, bottling gear, then a couple 3-gallon carboys (which I still use--I split a 5 gallon batch in 2 and can experiment with half the beer), etc.  This approach let me spread the cost over a year or two, and meant that by the time that I was equipped for larger batches I had all the kinks worked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really advocate this approach of start small and scale-up; it's a great way to learn to brew without having to find a way to use 50 bottles of skanky-accident-beer.  There's nothing wrong with starting from a kit, and after you outgrow it it makes a great hand-me-down (which, in turn, is a great way to recruit a set of hands to help you brew)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2011-10-25T17:14:19.360" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T17:14:19.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5379" CreationDate="2011-10-25T08:16:23.777" Score="5" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im having a lot of trouble buying the hops I want (specifically Horizon)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you find good hop stockists? Im from the uk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T11:30:03.477" Title="Finding good hop stockists" Tags="|hops|buying|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5378" CreationDate="2011-10-25T09:53:44.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of homebrew shops online in the UK, it's just a case of trawling all their websites and seeing what's available. I have heard of people ordering hops from retailers in Australia and having them sent through the post, which might be your only option if none of the UK shops have what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some links to a few UK online homebrew shops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopandgrape.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hopandgrape.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.copperkettlehomebrewing.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.copperkettlehomebrewing.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopshopuk.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hopshopuk.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.barleybottom.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.barleybottom.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easyhomebrew.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.easyhomebrew.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find any, you could always substitute Magnum, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/resources/hops&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/resources/hops&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T09:53:44.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5378" CreationDate="2011-10-25T12:11:36.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be worth checking with your local brewing club to see if they organise bulk buying of ingredients. If they don't you could help to organise it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-10-26T01:50:07.853" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T01:50:07.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5384" CreationDate="2011-10-25T21:16:24.893" Score="3" ViewCount="2243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recieved a Johnson A419 digital temperature controller, but I think I was mistaken in my expectations.  I was under the impression I could plug both a heater and cooler into the controller; however it has just a single plug leading me to assume it can only heat &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; cool, but not both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct?  If so what comparable controllers would support both heating and cooling?  Also, what is the correct term for each type of controller (single/dual-mode?)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T01:47:20.883" Title="Can a Johnson A419 control both a heater and cooler, or is a single-mode?" Tags="|equipment|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5381" CreationDate="2011-10-25T21:52:15.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed the A419 is listed as a &quot;single stage&quot; controller, and capable of controlling a single device.  The Love TS2 is a dual-stage switch which can control two devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to return the Johnson controller and order a TS2; one trade-off is that the TS2 isn't self-enclosed and lacks outlets, so I hope to build an enclosure similar to the one found at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewing.lustreking.com/gear/tempcontroller.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brewing.lustreking.com/gear/tempcontroller.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T21:52:15.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5381" CreationDate="2011-10-25T21:52:55.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Johnson A419 can both heat and cool.  You must open the case and re-position a jumper to change from cooling to heating mode (or vice versa). This requires a screwdriver and no technical knowledge.  Be sure to unplug the A419 before opening the case!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 7 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgproducts.johnsoncontrols.com/MET_PDF/125188.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt;  has a good diagram on this.  While you're opening the case and reading the manual, you should also look into the cut-in versus cut-out settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you would also have to plug in your heating or cooling source appropriately.  It's true that you can only be heating or cooling at any given time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1794" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T21:52:55.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5381" CreationDate="2011-10-26T01:47:20.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That Johnson is obviously single stage.&#xA;Try this &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/16664/102282/Ranco_Digital_Two-Stage_Temperature_Controller_-_Wired&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dual Stage Ranco&lt;/a&gt;.  Its already enclosed and ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T01:47:20.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5378" CreationDate="2011-10-26T11:30:03.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Home Brew Shop in the UK has a decent range of hops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I don't know if they have Horizon specifically. If not you can always ask them, at least they are always quite to respond to my questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, since Horizon is a U.S. hop, try a U.S. shop. If they come vacuum packed they'll be fine mailed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T11:30:03.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5372" CreationDate="2011-10-26T17:41:56.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Japan sometimes Sake is aged in Cedar barrels, I know of some beer makers (Cigar City) who also age in cedar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure other woods can/have been used for beer as well as wine but oak is the most dominant because it is particularly well suited to making barrels that won't leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a home brewing/winemaking perspective there's nothing stopping you from experimenting with other woods in the form of wood chips. Apple wood might add a rather interesting element to a beer or wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T17:41:56.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5372" CreationDate="2011-10-26T18:37:38.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pine is used in the Greek wine &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retsina&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Retsina&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T18:37:38.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5299" CreationDate="2011-10-27T07:23:57.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO - SG = absolutely but the general recommendation that I have seen is no more than once or twice a month to avoid potential contamination. Free SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; = not so much. TA and pH- only thing that I know with respect to mead (I haven't done a wine yet) is that the pH should be kept around 5. I'd tend to measure these last two no more than once a week and adjust as necessary at the start of the brewing and aging. Of course if you are fastidious about sterile technique and keeping your carboy closed as much as possible when drawing a sample for testing, the frequency probably isn't that much of an issue. But what I was taught was that in the cases of ciders and mead, it takes time for these to develop and mature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T07:23:57.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5299" CreationDate="2011-10-27T12:39:40.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;S.G. - Measure at least daily.  This is important to monitor when you want to add DAP &amp;amp; Ferment-K in your &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.math.fsu.edu/~gmizell/mead/LallemandNutrientAdditions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;nutrient schedule&lt;/a&gt;  Measure until at least the 1/3 sugar break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;pH - Many wine makers claim that the best time to adjust the pH is during the primary fermentation.  The ideal pH is 3.7 but  3.5-3.9 works very well.  I've had higher pH in some wines &amp;amp; meads drop as the primary fermentation goes on.  From what I understand, you really want to consider adjusting it for taste at the end, unless the pH is too low.  A low pH can result in a possible infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TA - same as pH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;s02 - I could use some guidance on this still&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T12:39:40.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5391" CreationDate="2011-10-27T23:05:20.923" Score="3" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm asking this because I recently made the switch to all grain brewing, and I'd like to make sure I'm as accurate as possible for mash temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a plain dial thermometer that I used for some extract brews (bought for ~$10 at my LHBS), but I'm not sure that I trust it. When I bought it, I calibrated it to 32F an ice water bath (lots of ice, just enough water to cover). Just for fun, I tried it in boiling water and it said that the water was only at 206 F after being immersed for 30 seconds in the boil (I am &amp;lt;1000 ft above sea level, so it should still be at 212 F), but still says I'm at 32 in an ice water bath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I try to find a nicer thermometer or just re-calibrate the one I have to the boiling water? If I should upgrade, do you have any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I should also add that I don't really have the funds to spend on a Thermapen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1601" LastEditorUserId="1601" LastEditDate="2011-10-28T00:37:30.260" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T17:05:07.890" Title="Should I upgrade my thermometer or just re-calibrate it?" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5390" CreationDate="2011-10-28T03:39:13.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that all the dial thermometers I've tried have always been off a little, and aren't able to be calibrated properly. Either they are too low on the high end or too high on the low end and I can't get them to be correct for both boiling and freezing water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alcohol thermometers (the ones that look like mercury thermometers) always are dead on and don't need to be calibrated, and only cost $10 or so. They also have a lot more precision so you can actually tell the difference between say 148 and 150 (which might be important for a mash). I would recommend one of them, since they are pretty cheap and work well. However you have to store them properly (the alcohol will separate if you store them upside down and then they are useless) and you can't get them too hot or they will explode. But other than that they are cheap and work great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T03:39:13.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5395" CreationDate="2011-10-28T04:23:18.050" Score="5" ViewCount="663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a recipe that calls for 12.2 pounds of liquid malt extract.  I picked up only 12 pounds (2 X 6 pound jugs) but didn't want to waste a bunch for only 0.2 pounds.  Originally I was thinking it would result in a lowered alcohol content without the sugars in the 0.2 pounds of extract, so then I thought it might be a good idea to substitute using a sugary adjunct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I replace the remaining 0.2 pounds with some other sugar source, such as molasses or maple?  This is for a Belgian strong dark ale, but I'm OK with it having some uniqueness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-10-29T21:09:27.330" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T15:23:11.017" Title="What Can I use to replace 0.2 pounds of Extract in a Recipe?" Tags="|extract|recipe|belgian|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5392" CreationDate="2011-10-28T06:16:06.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My beer brewing friends tend to use light sorghum as an alternative to LME. It has less impact on the taste than true dark molasses like you find in grocery stores. We find it in the local homebrew stores. But I'm told that purists can tell the difference in the taste. I'd doubt that you could taste the difference in a strong ale. Some of my favorite beer was homebrewed with the dark molasses, when I lived in TN. Very smooth drinking brew, that would kick your a$$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T06:16:06.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5392" CreationDate="2011-10-28T12:06:38.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.candisyrup.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dark Candi Syrup&lt;/a&gt; would be true to style and give some very nice flavors, but just about any sweet syrup or even just straight cane sugar would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T12:06:38.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5392" CreationDate="2011-10-28T12:13:52.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late in the boil, add honey, candi sugar, maple syrup, molasses, or sorghum (I love this stuff, but it's expensive) if you want to add a little flavor.  You could even add them during fermentation, provided you heat-kill the baddies first (mead is made by just heating honey to 150+; there isn't even a boil involved).  I tend to take a middle of the road approach and add at flame-out if there isn't more than a few pounds involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to affect the flavor too much, add corn sugar during the boil.  It also has the benefit of being super cheap.  A lot of &quot;American&quot; style beers have corn sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These all have the benefit of having a higher fermentability than malt, so you won't need the whole 2 pounds to make up the difference in alcohol.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Fermentable_adjuncts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrewtalk&lt;/a&gt; has a pretty good wiki to help you do the math.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you could consider is a partial mash.  You can do this in a pot with some careful temperature control (think: lots of insulation or constant temperature adjustments on the stove) and patience.  Most cooking vessels lose heat fast, so use your imagination here.  Buy 2.5 lbs of 2-row and put it in your fancy temperature controlled vessel.  Pour 2 gallons of 165 degree water.  Keep the mash just above 155 for an hour and strain it into your boil pot.  You then have your two pounds of malt extract already dissolved in water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  I just noticed that it was 0.2 lbs instead of 2lbs.  Throw in 3 ounces of pretty much any of the sugars mentioned.  You'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastEditorUserId="1241" LastEditDate="2011-10-28T15:15:45.983" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T15:15:45.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5392" CreationDate="2011-10-28T12:56:48.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many LMEs provide about 1.036 PPG. If this is a five gallon batch, you're talking about a drop of 1.4 points (36*.2/5). Not much to make a big difference in taste IMO. If you want to replace that lost sugar using molasses or syrup, find the points of the sugar and work backwards. Brown Sugar is 46 ppg so you would need .156 pounds to make up the difference (1.44*5)/46. Molasses is 36 ppg so you would use .2 pounds assuming your LME is also 36 ppg. Again, given the small amount, I don't think it'll make a huge difference either way. I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brew Calculus&lt;/a&gt; for ppg numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T12:56:48.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5363" CreationDate="2011-10-28T14:05:08.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work for Patagonia Malt Malting house. We do produce malt extract that we sell to the food industry. this market is by far the larger on malt extract. You have to be careful on the composition of the malt extract. cheap malt extract usually use lots of adjuncts on their process (similar to low cost beer) so it will impact directly taste of beer. Another two key parameters is color and fermentability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1799" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T14:05:08.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-28T15:39:37.397" Score="4" ViewCount="3201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a couple of tasty rauchbiers lately, and got thinking about whether it would be possible to get the aroma of a cigar into a similar beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a user, I don't mind getting nicotine into the brew, but I'm sure my guests would rather not. Much like a rauchbier, I think the magic comes from the aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I &quot;smoke&quot; my beer? Can I drop raw tobacco leaves into secondary? Throw a can of snus in? Smoke malt over a case of cubans?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-10-31T09:05:44.187" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T12:02:04.697" Title="How can tobacco be used in beer?" Tags="|aroma|smoke|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5398" CreationDate="2011-10-28T16:00:43.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course, you can use anything in beer but that doesn't mean it's a good idea.  Keep in mind that tobacco is poisonous when ingested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2011-10-28T16:45:37.667" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T16:45:37.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5398" CreationDate="2011-10-28T17:25:53.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Italy's &lt;a href=&quot;http://birradelborgo.it/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Birra del Borgo&lt;/a&gt; do a range of beers that are made with tobacco. I don't know how they do it, but I have had the KeTo RePorter and the KeTo ReAle and can say that they genuinely taste like they have tobacco in them. The KeTo ReAle left my mouth feeling like I'd had a cigar... You could always drop them an email and ask how they use the leaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2011-11-02) Also just found out that they are on &lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/#!/BirraDelBorgo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Twitter&lt;/a&gt; so you could always tweet them, if you're on there...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="696" LastEditDate="2011-11-02T12:02:04.697" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T12:02:04.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5398" CreationDate="2011-10-28T18:40:00.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could buy leaf-tobacco in bulk and home-smoke some grain with tobacco smoke.   Nicotine's &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LD50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LD50&lt;/a&gt; is pretty low, though.  I would try to find combinations of ingredients to closely mimic the flavor, rather than using actual tobacco.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T18:40:00.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5403" CreationDate="2011-10-28T22:45:42.550" Score="4" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any sort of (financially attainable) test kit available to measure the sugar profile in wort and beer? In particular, I'd like to know the breakdown of glucose, fructose, sucrose, maltose, and maltotriose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White Labs seems to offer this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/lab_services.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;exact test&lt;/a&gt; (#LS6670), but it requires sending a sample to their facility. I'd prefer something that I can do myself at home, so I can take advantage of the immediate feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T06:43:29.030" Title="Home method to measure sugar profile" Tags="|equipment|sugar|measurements|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5402" CreationDate="2011-10-29T06:37:21.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;May seem a little strange, but taking a sample to your local crime lab and having them run LC/MS on it can get the profile numbers, then make a donation to the police fund or offer the analyst some homebrew :-). I used to do similar analytical analysis as a university professor and the MS databases knock these out pretty quickly. Or go to a local college/university chemistry or biochem department and you may be able to find someone that would be willing to do a quick analysis for you. I have never seen a reliable home analysis kit for all of these because several of these are isomers that are only most easily determined by mass spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to a fructose/glucose home test kit, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.happyherbalist.com/residualsugartestkit.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.happyherbalist.com/residualsugartestkit.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2011-10-29T06:43:29.030" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T06:43:29.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5398" CreationDate="2011-10-29T06:57:17.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if you went to a local cigar store and bought some of the empty wooden boxes, then used them like oak chips, if you would get some of the aroma transfer without the nicotine. My local cigar lounge sells these pretty cheap, but most of them are cedar and don't exactly smell just like the cigar smoke (just checked a couple that I use to store my 9mm's in my office and bedroom :-)). I vote for smoking the grain over some cuban clones (wouldn't want ATF after you). Definitely not the snuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T06:57:17.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4501" CreationDate="2011-10-29T08:38:21.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bcga.co.uk/preview/publications/carriage.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BCGA Guidance for drivers at work&lt;/a&gt; which, following the flow chart in Appendix 1 Part 2, shows that there are no specific requirements for non-toxic, non-flammable gases in cylinders less than 25Kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T08:38:21.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5407" CreationDate="2011-10-29T14:41:20.720" Score="5" ViewCount="6782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need something to sweeten my alcoholic ginger beer. Im currently at the last fermentation stage before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using Honey as the primer since not all of it will ferment in the bottles. I could also use sweetener but i want to avoid the chemical after taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend anything better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T09:39:54.007" Title="Which sweeteners are good" Tags="|ingredients|sweetness|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5406" CreationDate="2011-10-29T16:09:58.410" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honey will pretty much ferment out completely.  Between that and the small amount you use, you won't get much, if any, flavor or sweetness from it.  Maybe try some lactose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T16:09:58.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5406" CreationDate="2011-10-29T22:52:46.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I made my last batch of ginger beer, I used dark brown sugar as the priming sugar. It pairs well with the ginger and adds a little more &quot;sweet&quot; than simple white sugar. But Denny's right, you don't get much of a sweetening effect because of the relatively low amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also used sucralose in the past to sweeten ciders without the danger of bottle bombs, and didn't have the aftertaste like other artificials. But I have been told on this forum that it can cause a strange taste for some folk. This hasn't been a problem for the 20+ folk that I served my raspberry and cactus pear ciders to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T22:52:46.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5410" CreationDate="2011-10-30T18:04:09.617" Score="13" ViewCount="11474" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a thermodynamics perspective, I realize that a TEC-based fermentation chamber is not the most efficient type of cooler due to very inefficient heat transfer, but, alas, I want to build one as I have most of the parts lying around. I haven't done the all the math, but I believe that I can achieve acceptable cooling for lagering using a 48W TEC as long as I can efficiently dissipate the waste heat from the hot side of the TEC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read many posts, articles, etc. over the years, but haven't kept the references to all of them and am now wanting to get started. My question is: What are some good sources for plans, including parts lists, dimensions of materials and anything else that might be useful for a DIY-builder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I have on hand that appears to be the most common set of components for a TEC-based fermentation chamber from what I've read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12V, 10A power supply&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Digital TEC thermostat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12V, 4A (48W) Peltier with dual heatsinks and fans&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Foam insulating board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plywood for external surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plexiglass for TEC mounting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm looking for are plans or projects that utilize those things or similar items that can be used in conjunction with them. I would be really interested in the use of pumps and or radiators for heat exchanger waste dissipation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably as important would be feedback from anyone who has built one and some of their experiences related to things that worked and things that they might have done differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2011-10-31T13:16:37.480" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T15:29:40.373" Title="DIY Thermoelectric Cooler (TEC / Peltier) Fermentation Chamber" Tags="|fermentation|diy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5409" CreationDate="2011-10-30T20:55:43.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be helpful with respect to constructing a box from the foam: &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.roadrunner.com/~brewbeer/chiller/chiller.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://home.roadrunner.com/~brewbeer/chiller/chiller.PDF&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made one of these chillers (powered by frozen jugs of water) and it works quite well.  The only advice I would give is to make absolutely certain that your cuts are square when you cut the foam.  I would recommend a table saw or similar.  If the cuts aren't square, your surfaces won't mate well, and you'll have a hard time gluing it together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T20:55:43.647" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2011-10-31T01:33:50.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A really good method for doing permanent labels is making &quot;fired-ons&quot;. Enamel paint can be permanently attached to glass when baked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a stencil and used white spray paint (because that't the only enamel paint I had on hand). Put them on a tray and put them in the oven. AFTER they're in the oven, set it to 325 and leave them in there for at least 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, turn it off and leave the bottles in there. The important thing here is to not expose the glass to extreme temperature changes, so don't open the oven and leave the bottles in there for another hour (or two if your oven holds heat well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wrote on them with a sharipe. The sharpie left a shadow when removed with 70% isopropyl alcohol. I'm not sure why, but I think it would work better if you used enamel house paint, let the paint dry before kilning, and use higher strength alcohol to remove the sharpie. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1803" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-10-31T09:28:29.807" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T09:28:29.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5398" CreationDate="2011-10-31T12:08:58.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;might be able to smoke the malts or store the cigars in your keg till they take the aroma!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1806" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T12:08:58.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5414" CreationDate="2011-10-31T20:23:39.583" Score="2" ViewCount="580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I innocently/stupidly used a pack of wheat beer yeast (Safbrew WB-06) when making a high hopped light beer (100g Liberty, 100g Cascade, 2.2 lbs of spraymalt and 500g of brewing sugar made up to 20 litres)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer tastes exactly what I was going for but is refusing to clarify after several weeks.  I still want to bottle carbonate so was wondering what was best route for clarity (it looks like soup at the moment).  I am happy to rack it into a secondary and/or use finings or go for filtration.  I have heard gelatin can work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1807" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T21:45:59.577" Title="How best to clarify when wheat beer yeast used" Tags="|racking|filtering|clarification|wheat-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5413" CreationDate="2011-10-31T21:45:59.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time and cold temps are the best way.  Keep it around 35F for a couple weeks and it will clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T21:45:59.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-11-01T03:00:27.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Amarillo, super galena and simcoe are the new varieties&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1798" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T03:00:27.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1726" CreationDate="2011-11-01T03:15:03.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you buy pellet hops they often come in silver mylar bags that keep out oxygen and light. to You can use a heat sealer to reseal the unused portion and keep in the refrigerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1798" LastEditorUserId="1737" LastEditDate="2011-11-03T22:12:40.920" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T22:12:40.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5421" CreationDate="2011-11-01T06:50:29.553" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for reasonable prices for magazines, which can be send over to Czech Republic. I need English written ones and they should be about beers, brewing etc.&#xA;Do you know about any good ones not only limited to the USA market?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T15:18:51.670" Title="Which Beer magazines can I get in Europe - Czech Republic?" Tags="|beer|magazine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5417" CreationDate="2011-11-01T10:27:50.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/subscribe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Your Own&lt;/a&gt; ships internationally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T10:27:50.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5422" CreationDate="2011-11-01T13:21:40.577" Score="4" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed and bottled an English Ale in August, and, after a few weeks in the bottle, promptly drank most of the 5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'd heard some advice to leave a few bottles for a few months to see how it evolves over time. Yesterday, I cracked open one of the bottles, and it certainly had evolved, but for the worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, this brew had become somewhat cloudy, and had a distinctive taste that I could best describe as dusty and moldy. From what I understand, a moldy malt can yield a moldy brew, but this seems doubtful in my case, since I had plenty of this beer and it was delicious until now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was it just an anomaly? Or did something grow over time? Perhaps I capped poorly? Or maybe this bottle just wasn't thoroughly clean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T16:03:29.643" Title="Moldy taste appearing months after bottling" Tags="|sanitation|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5417" CreationDate="2011-11-01T15:18:51.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zymurgy ships internationally, also, and now there's an electronic version of it so you don't even have to deal with shipping if you don't want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T15:18:51.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5420" CreationDate="2011-11-01T16:03:29.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a beer becomes cloudy after it is bottled it often means that there is some sort of bacterial infection. This could have been introduced in the bottle or before and it just took time to develop which may be why it wasn't present in the bottles you consumed first. &#xA;Some people describe oxidation as a dusty or papery flavor so it may have also suffered from oxidation.  It could also just be a byproduct of the infection.&#xA;I would suggest looking at your cleaning and sanitation procedures for bottling to prevent this in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T16:03:29.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5426" CreationDate="2011-11-02T01:15:38.460" Score="7" ViewCount="5160" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from digital thermometers, what are some other clever uses of the Arduino platform as applied to homebrewing? Anything such as novel gadgetry, process automation and/or DIY equipment is especially interesting to me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T16:31:49.507" Title="Homebrewing and Arduino" Tags="|diy|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5424" CreationDate="2011-11-02T03:04:00.923" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/131&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;light gate used to sense bubbling in an airlock to measure fermentation rates&lt;/a&gt;. Very slick implementation and obviously useful data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/abegb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paired with a temp-controlled environment, one could control the rate of fermentation by adjusting the temperature, instead of just relying on a set temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="323" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T03:04:00.923" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5424" CreationDate="2011-11-02T17:58:27.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the Brewtroller project &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtroller.com/wiki/doku.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewtroller.com/wiki/doku.php&lt;/a&gt; is based on the arduino platform.  It has grown into custom boards, interfaces and such but I think it still has a stock arduino package that you can use as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T17:58:27.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5424" CreationDate="2011-11-02T18:37:04.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never did it, but I was poking around with using one to adjust the flow-rate of my strike water, so I could maintain a particular temperature while mashing in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.corsairartisan.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Corsair&lt;/a&gt; uses one in their distillery, but I don't know if that's for the distillation process, the brewing process, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T18:37:04.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5434" CreationDate="2011-11-03T00:43:27.663" Score="5" ViewCount="2674" Body="&lt;p&gt;After many batches of beer, I've decided to try a hard cider.  The recipe I have does not give a predicted OG, however all of the ingredients list the amount of sugar in the nutritional information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe calls for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 gallons apple cider (28g sugar per 8oz, 2,240 g total)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 cup maple syrup (54g sugar per 4TSP, 212 g total)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 cups honey (16g per 1 TSP, 512g total)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to estimate the OG from this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T17:43:45.050" Title="is it possible to estimate OG from nutritional information?" Tags="|cider|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5406" CreationDate="2011-11-03T00:51:15.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You have a few options.  No matter what option you choose, you main goals are:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To backsweeten&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To avoid bottle bombs!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As per priming with honey vs priming sugar..&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;Honey has more flavor than sugar.  However, if you are only adding enough to do the priming, then you will not increase the sweetness.  Another popular ingredient to sweeten ciders is apple juice concentrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So here's your options&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Option #1 &amp;amp; &lt;strong&gt;Best Option&lt;/strong&gt; Stabilize/Back Sweeten/Force Carbonate.  This is the safest &amp;amp; most controlled bet.  It requires kegging equipment.  Got a friend that has kegs?  Ask them to force carb your cider after you back sweeten, then bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Option #2 &amp;amp; &lt;strong&gt;Dangerous Option&lt;/strong&gt;- Aim for the top range ABV tolerance of the yeast.  Sweeten beyond this point.  Measure S.G., and bottle when fermentation is on it's last leg.  This is a roll of the dice strategy, and I wouldn't recommend it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Option #3 &amp;amp; &lt;strong&gt;artificial tasting option&lt;/strong&gt; - Use and artifical sweetener such as stevia, liquid splenda, or lactose.  I've had unsuccessful attempts with this, as it's always left me with an aftertaste I did not like.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T00:51:15.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5428" CreationDate="2011-11-03T01:16:39.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably, but I would do it a different way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can work out a pppg ((gravity) points per pound per gallon) by doing some simple measurements:   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 gallon = 128 fl oz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 pound = 16 oz (weight/mass)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you could test 4oz (weight/mass) of your syrup/honey in 32 fl oz of water (or 1oz in 8 fl oz. water, or 0.25 oz in 2 fl oz water, &lt;em&gt;etc.&lt;/em&gt;), using a hydrometer or refractometer like you normally do for wort.   You should be able to measure the cider directly, without needing to mix it with the water, since it is serving as your water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually do this when I'm working with a new syrup or honey that has an unknown specific gravity.   Then I plug those numbers into my brewing software and let it do the full-volume calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to mix up a sample using the same ratio that your must will be, and measure that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;80 cups of cider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 cups honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 cup syrup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which would work out to be, in the smallest measure that is normally found in a kitchen in the US:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 cup + 4 teaspoons cider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/2 teaspoon honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/4 teaspoon maple syrup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix that together well, measure it, and drink your sample must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T01:16:39.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5406" CreationDate="2011-11-03T05:21:15.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could add a sweetener when you serve it. Simple syrup and agave nectar would be good choices because they are very sweet and water soluble, so they dissolve easily when you stir them in. You could use honey too if you prefer that flavor, but it doesn't dissolve well in cold liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any good reason you need it in there before bottling, and doing so will make your life more difficult, requiring you to resort to (somewhat) exotic ingredients that won't ferment, potentially resulting in bottle bombs, and it still might not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been having the same problem in my fermented non-alcoholic ginger beer (very low alcohol soda)  - it's not sweet enough. I'm  planning to try three things with mine next - sweeten at serving as I said here; shorter fermentation (was doing 48 hr, going to do 24 next); and making it without fermentation (mixing seltzer and a concentrated concoction). I don't have a keg setup otherwise I'd force carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2011-11-03T05:26:35.357" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T05:26:35.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5392" CreationDate="2011-11-03T05:36:46.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of software that can calculate the gravity you will get from various fermentables. This will let you figure out exactly how much of something to substitute. One free calculator is here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These kinds of calculators will be essential if you ever want to start designing new beer recipes. BeerSmith and ProMash are two very popular desktop applications amongst homebrewers that can also be used to do these kinds of calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T05:36:46.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5438" CreationDate="2011-11-03T14:29:09.630" Score="7" ViewCount="2076" Body="&lt;p&gt;So an often repeated mantra for starters is to (1) make a starter, (2) let it ferment out completely, (3) chill the starter in the fridge for a day or two, then (4) pour/decant off the oxidized &quot;beer&quot; in the starter flask and then (5) pitch just the slurry at the bottom of the flask into the fresh wort to be fermented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I was under the impression that yeasts did not like extremely rapid temperature changes, and going from 40F in a fridge to 65-70F in wort almost instantly seems pretty rapid to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not particularly questioning the effectiveness of the technique, mainly because I hear so many brewers espousing it, but I am curious &lt;strong&gt;how many here do this for most starters&lt;/strong&gt;, and if there are &lt;strong&gt;any strains where you need to do something different&lt;/strong&gt;, like pitch the whole starter at high-krausen. I prefer that method, not based on anything real, but just because it makes me the least nervous. (I KNOW the actively bubbling starter is working.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T18:06:48.280" Title="Starter Chill, Decant, Pitch - Why no problem with Temp Shock?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5428" CreationDate="2011-11-03T15:18:49.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sugar provides 46 gravity points per pound, per gallon (PPPG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the nutritional data, you've got a total of 2.964 kg of sugar, which is 6.53 lb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your total volume is 5 gallons + 3 cups = 5.1875 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(6.53 * 46) / 5.1875 = 57.9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your predicted starting gravity is 1.058&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T15:18:49.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5433" CreationDate="2011-11-03T15:56:05.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chill, Decant, when you start brewing, pull the starter out and let it hang out and watch while you prepare it's new home/all you can eat buffet.  This works great for me. A side benefit is it helps to wake the yeast back up after the chilling step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T15:56:05.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5428" CreationDate="2011-11-03T17:43:45.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gotmead.com has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gotmead.com/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;task=view&amp;amp;id=745&amp;amp;Itemid=16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;calculator&lt;/a&gt; that does these kind of tasks perfectly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T17:43:45.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5424" CreationDate="2011-11-03T17:58:31.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen one used as a temperature controller for mashing.  Basically turning a water heating element on and off to maintain a constant temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T17:58:31.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5433" CreationDate="2011-11-03T18:06:48.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature change is worst when the yeast is active, because it needs to change its metabolism to deal with the new temperature. This involves producing new enzymes, etc. which can lead to off flavors. If the change is too much, the yeast might just quit fermenting all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you let the yeast ferment the starter completely and then chill them, they go into a dormant state and aren't really eating anything. They stay in this state while they warm up again and they don't really start metabolizing until they are back at a stable temperature in the wort. That being said, you should let the yeast warm to room temperature before you pitch it so fermentation doesn't start before it has warmed completely, then you might have problems with temperature shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T18:06:48.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5406" CreationDate="2011-11-04T16:42:17.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Xylitol is widely used as a sweetener for ciders, as it is an unfermentable sugar that will retain sweetness in your beverage and allow you to carbonate naturally using regular priming sugar.  However, there are reports that drinking too much of the stuff can give you stomach problems.  As always YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1815" LastActivityDate="2011-11-04T16:42:17.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5443" CreationDate="2011-11-04T18:16:06.557" Score="1" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some leftover ingredients that are just going to go bad as I won't be making any brew for awhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I have:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~1 lb Carafa III crushed malted barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Several Packets of Dry Champagne Yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/2 ounce aroma Hops (pellets @ 3.8%)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to mix these up and ferment something, really, just for an experiment.  I have 1 gallon glass fermenters, so I can easily make a small batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this work, any tips on how I should do it, or should I just throw the ingredients away because it won't be worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;  I used the ingredients along with Honey to produce a beverage similar to Braggot.  Ultimately, the beverage turned out awful on top and beautiful underneath.  Because I only brewed a gallon, and used the entire pound of Carafa, the drink was much too harsh, as it was overpowered by the burnt, dark malt flavors.  Underneath, however, was a smooth and light beverage.  Had I used only a few ounces of the malt, this drink would have been a delight.  Lessons learned.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastEditorUserId="1750" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T20:15:53.647" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T20:15:53.647" Title="Brew Hack - What Can I Make with These Ingredients?" Tags="|beer|experiments|small-batch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5441" CreationDate="2011-11-04T18:56:05.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wrap it all up tightly and put it in the freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-04T18:56:05.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5441" CreationDate="2011-11-04T18:57:36.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you will be unlikely to get any conversion out of the Carafa as it has been kilned to the point that all of the enzymes have been destroyed. Weyermann shows that this malt has No Enzymatic Power &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weyermann.de/usa/bmprodukte_neu.asp?idkat=204&amp;amp;umenue=yes&amp;amp;idmenue=269&amp;amp;sprache=10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.weyermann.de/usa/bmprodukte_neu.asp?idkat=204&amp;amp;umenue=yes&amp;amp;idmenue=269&amp;amp;sprache=10&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to add some base malt (or DME and steep the Carafa) you may be able to make a very dry brown ale of some sort I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-11-04T18:57:36.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2011-11-04T19:59:25.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Head to your local home improvement store and pick up some &quot;Chalk Board Paint&quot; (spray paint).  You can tape off a section of your bottle, paint, and label with chalk.  You will want to paint a portion that doesn't get touched so much... perhaps the neck of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="803" LastActivityDate="2011-11-04T19:59:25.580" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5446" CreationDate="2011-11-05T19:48:59.460" Score="2" ViewCount="925" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably a simple solution, but I'm planning on making the jump to AG very shortly and, having only done 5-gallon batches in the past, am wondering what is the easiest way to ferment a full 15-gallon batch. I would expect most people to say &quot;just use 3, 5-gallon carboys&quot;, and that is fine. I am curious if there another way short of purchasing a 15-gallon conical fermenter? I suppose it's simply a question of volume, but would like to know how other AG brewers do it and what kinds of setups might be involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastActivityDate="2011-11-05T21:42:12.340" Title="How to ferment 15-gallon batches" Tags="|equipment|all-grain|process|primary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5445" CreationDate="2011-11-05T21:42:12.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advantage (aside from price) of getting three 6 or 6.5 gallon better bottles or glass carboys would be that you can move them around without injuring yourself.   I'm using two 6-gallon better bottles for the 10 gallon batch I made recently, and they're working nicely.   That also lets you experiment with different kinds of yeast in the same wort, &lt;em&gt;etc.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-05T21:42:12.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6423" CreationDate="2011-11-07T19:37:36.257" Score="13" ViewCount="22942" Body="&lt;p&gt;The health food store near me has a sale on dark Agave nectar such that 1 kg costs less than their average 1 kg of honey (usually it costs slightly more than honey). I noticed on the nutritional info on the label that it's got roughly the same sugar content as honey, so &lt;em&gt;in theory&lt;/em&gt;, I could use agave nectar to make mead, using the same proportions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I attempt this though, I was wondering if anyone out there has already done this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it as straightforward as I am thinking (basically, follow any regular mead recipe but substitute honey for agave nectar)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or are there any differences: differences in process / cooking / fermentation; differences in spices or seasonings added; any other possible differences I hadn't thought of...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All else being equal, would using agave nectar produce a significantly differently tasting mead than honey?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I even call it &quot;mead&quot; if it's not technially made of honey - should I call it something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some quick research has shown that there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; such a drink, called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulque&quot;&gt;pulque&lt;/a&gt;. However, fermentation seems to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulque#Production_of_pulque&quot;&gt;driven by bacteria rather than yeast&lt;/a&gt;. Has anyone here done this with yeast (since I imagine the right bacteria is harder to get)? Any tips or suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a bit more research, it seems that substituting honey for agave in a mead recipe won't yield traditional pulque. I guess it would be agave wine, if nothing else. So maybe the only thing to do is to try it and see what happens!! Anyone have any tips / suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T17:11:41.403" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T23:55:11.663" Title="Mead made from Agave nectar?" Tags="|mead|alternatives|substitution|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5448" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-07T19:45:17.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tag for posts about doing things in an alternative-to-the-norm fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2011-11-09T01:59:58.527" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T01:59:58.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5449" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-07T19:45:17.247" Score="0" Body="A tag for posts about doing things in an alternative-to-the-norm fashion." OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2011-11-09T02:00:01.693" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T02:00:01.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5366" CreationDate="2011-11-07T20:46:42.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an all-grain BIAB guy I dump my bag in a bucket with an upside down colander.  I suppose you could do the same for a steeping bag in a small pot using the same method.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1815" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T20:46:42.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="43" CreationDate="2011-11-08T18:12:16.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Personally I've been looking into the exact same thing, my preferred store is  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.morebeer.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;morebeer&lt;/a&gt; because they have free shipping and pretty good prices.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look at sites like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;homebrewtalk&lt;/a&gt; and see if you can find a local group organizing a bulk grain buy.. and instead of getting bulk grain, get bulk DME which if you spend the time breaking it out into freezer bags or have a 5 gallon bucket that has a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; seal on it, or have a food saver. with a bulk buy, you can probably get a 50  pound bag ( yes 50 pounds) of DME for maybe 1.60 a pound.. which your LHBS or a online store , cannot and will not touch.. I recommend bulk DME over LME because LME spoils alot easier and is alot sticker to deal with.  Combining say a LIGHT DME ( gives you flexibility on what styles you can brew) with a minimash of speciality grains can end up getting you a beer for real real cheap. ( or see if you can make friends with someone who works at a local microbrewerie and would be willing to add your order on to theirs)( or try searching google for &quot;bulk grain buy Montana Malt&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast recycling will save you 2-8$ a batch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy your hops in bulk ( say buy 1 LB of a real clean bittering hop( that won't contribute any flavor), and then have smaller amounts of the different varieties of aroma and flavoring hops.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't brew insanely hoppy beers, the cost will add up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to go hard core, you could try finding a friendly farmer who grows malt grade barley and malting it yourself ( but I &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; wouldn't recommend it)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Being in Montana sounds like a shame that you have to pay so much considering that alot of malters are based on the west coast for god sakes. I like the idea of AG, but if I can get real cheap DME the cost difference would take &lt;em&gt;alot&lt;/em&gt; of batches before it made a big difference, even with a BIAB setup, partially because I would refuse to settle for a corona/victoria mill and I'll be dead before I regularly use a rolling pin to crush my grain, I can deal for just the specialty grain. ( better grinders are 100-200). and if you don't buy in bulk specialty grain tends to run 1.50-2$  a lb, and if you get it bulk preground, it will go bad too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A solution to #7 is to form a club with some friends//see bulk grain buy and share the cost of the equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you do go all grain you could look into getting a good 2 row malt and reading up how to make your own toasted grains and crystal. and just buy black patent malt or some or the really special grains.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1825" LastEditorUserId="1825" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T14:41:41.237" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T14:41:41.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5453" CreationDate="2011-11-08T21:20:56.457" Score="9" ViewCount="23657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm putting together an &quot;all glass&quot; kit with two carboys and want to brew a DIPA but I'm a little concerned about temperature ranges where I'll be fermenting.  I'm looking at somewhere between 15-18 Celsius.  A friend told me that using an Ale yeast in that range will give the beer a bad flavor.  I'm a little skeptical but realise anything is possible.  With this being my first go I'd really like to nail it.  Any insight is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethan N.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1822" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T18:12:57.303" Title="Can fermenting temperatures affect a beer's taste?" Tags="|techniques|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5452" CreationDate="2011-11-08T21:37:34.247" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation temperature does play a pretty big role in how the beer is going to taste.  If the temperature is too high you can get excessive amounts of ester production and also can produce higher alcohols and phenolics that are undesired.&#xA;If the temperature is too low, ale yeast can be sluggish or go dormant too soon causing under attenuation.  It can also fail to reabsorb byproducts from fermentation such as diacetyl.  You would seem to be on the very low end of the fermentation range for ale yeast at 15-18C.  This temperature range may work well with hybrid yeast such as Alt(wyeast 1007) or steam beer yeast(wyeast 2112).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;An optimal range for most ales would be around 19-20C(66-68F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T21:37:34.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5452" CreationDate="2011-11-08T21:47:16.633" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, yeast have an optimal temperature range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Too cold&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They become dormant and won't ferment all of the sugars impacting the flavor, mouth feel and  alcohol content&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Too hot&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They flip out and produce fusel alcohols that can taste like cleaners or solvents. You can shake some of these flavors off during secondary but if there's too many they'll stick around. A Banana flavor in beer could be attributed to high esters during fermentation, diacetyls is another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T21:47:16.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5479" CreationDate="2011-11-08T21:54:08.980" Score="5" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a copy of my city water quality report in hand and, with no particular reason other to than to understand how water quality can affect the &lt;em&gt;taste&lt;/em&gt; of beer, would like to know where I can find information describing common off-flavors and the root cause a component of the source water might have had in their production as well as acceptable ranges or limits thereof?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T16:53:35.977" Title="Water quality and its contribution to off-flavors" Tags="|water|chemistry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5460" CreationDate="2011-11-08T22:25:20.643" Score="1" ViewCount="1660" Body="&lt;p&gt;My batch didn't reach the target FG and I'm trying to decide whether to just bottle or to pitch more yeast (would be 3rd pitch). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a very similar situation to the one described here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3315/brewed-an-oatmeal-stout-and-the-gravity-did-not-drop-as-much-as-predicted-shoul&quot;&gt;Brewed an Oatmeal Stout and the gravity did not drop as much as predicted, should I re-pitch or add yeast nutrients/energizer?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also made an oatmeal stout, did a partial mash w/about 5.5 lbs of extract and 5 lbs of grains including 1 lb of flaked oats. I used liquid yeast (White Labs English Ale) and made a 1 liter starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target OG was 1.055, mine came in at 1.050. After two weeks it went down to 1.019-1.020 (kind of on the line). Target FG for the recipe is 1.016. It got too cold at one point so I thought it might have stalled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I pitched another packet, waited a week and the gravity is as the same place. I didn't make a starter with the dry yeast, because there's a lot of yeast in a dry packet and it seemed like overkill for a 5 gal batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that I just have a lot of unfermentables in there which are bumping up the gravity. I added 1/2 lb of cocoa powder and maybe didn't have the best efficiency with my stove top partial mash which included oats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tasted it and I don't think it's particularly sweet for a stout - tastes pretty good to me for room temp uncarbonated beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So should I just bottle already?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T01:01:41.553" Title="Didn't reach target FG, pitched more yeast, gravity same after a week. Should I just bottle already?" Tags="|yeast|stout|bottle|pitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-11-08T22:39:49.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the American hops like those listed above (Cascade, Amarillo, Columbus, Citra, etc.) the citrus is mostly grapefruit (plus tropical fruits which aren't necessarily citrus). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people think the Japanese Sorachi Ace hop has a distinctly lemon aroma. I recently made a saison with it and it worked well with the esters produced by the yeast. Brooklyn Brewery also does a saison with heavy Sorachi Ace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T22:39:49.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="43" CreationDate="2011-11-08T22:55:59.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you include the high price of extract, liquid yeast and hops if you use a lot of them, $40 is about average - it's not high if you are starting from a recipe and not buying a kit. You can get down cheaper with a kit, but I think you'll find the kit will probably have less in it than the recipe and you'll learn more from using a recipe vs a kit. It's nothing against kits, the beer will probably taste as good as the recipe. This is especially true if you are buying at a local homebrew store, where they are including their shipping costs in the prices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are some ways you can save money. The main thing I've found is LME is significantly more in local stores. A 3.3 lb container of Briess LME at the LHBS is around $13-14 in my neighborhood, whereas it's about $9 online, but then you're paying shipping. But even with shipping, you may still save money buying LME online. Some stores have free shipping deals if you buy a certain amount. For example morebeer.com has free shipping over $59. If you buy a LME online in bulk you will definitely save there. It has a shelf life, but if you keep it in the fridge it should last a few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to have my grains milled as close to the day I'm going to use them as possible, and I don't own a grain main, so I try to buy them at the LHBS. Yeast needs to be kept cold, especially liquid yeast so it's tricky to buy online without it being expensive since you need ice packs and fast shipping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's commonly acknowledged that if you want to save the most money in the long run, all grain is cheaper than extract brewing. I still do extract, but I'm planning to start doing stove top all grain soon with a cheap setup like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-stovetop-all-grain-brewing-pics-90132/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-stovetop-all-grain-brewing-pics-90132/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T22:55:59.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5469" CreationDate="2011-11-09T00:03:03.927" Score="3" ViewCount="15249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build an all-grain setup using 1/2bbl (15gal) kegs (keggle, HLT and MT/LT). I really didn't imagine that sourcing them would be such a difficult task, but after a couple of weeks of calling around and trolling eBay, I've come to the conclusion that you just need to be &quot;in the right place at the right time&quot;, as they say. The ones I've found on eBay are nearly $100 with shipping. I've always read that most can be had for around $30-$40. Is $100 the going rate or is there a secret to sourcing kegs that I should know about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2011-11-09T04:04:25.070" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T01:41:08.467" Title="Sourcing empty 15gal (1/2bbl) beer kegs?" Tags="|kegs|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5456" CreationDate="2011-11-09T01:01:41.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Final Gravity is final gravity, it's when the yeast is done. If you measure the gravity and it doesn't change after several days, it is done fermenting. You're probably correct in that you probably mashed on the high side and got more unfermentables than expected for the recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I definitely wouldn't pitch again, but might consider racking to secondary for bulk aging and a little extra time for any last points to drop. I would then go ahead and bottle and take the usual precautions with regards to bottle bombs. Finally I would then RDWHAHB!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T01:01:41.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5459" CreationDate="2011-11-09T01:06:13.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the $30-40 figure is when a brewery owns their own kegs, and wants to dispose of non-functional (by serving standards) kegs at near scrap cost.  Ask your local breweries about their keg supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the kegs are owned by a 3rd party, try them.  For instance, it seems like Microstar owns most of the kegs around here, so I called them; they send them to Adventures in Homebrewing (homebrewing.org), who outfits them as mash/brew kettles; I'm getting another one delivered tomorrow, in fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T01:06:13.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5459" CreationDate="2011-11-09T01:06:15.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Craigslist is probably your best bet for finding used kegs. The ethics on it aren't exactly pristine (kegs are owned by the brewery and only &quot;leased&quot; to the consumer, usually with a deposit to ensure their return) but you can usually find ones where people have already lost their deposit on for the deposit cost or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T01:06:15.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5459" CreationDate="2011-11-09T01:44:50.780" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought one from the local beer store for the price of the keg deposit ($50).   They often have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T01:44:50.780" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5452" CreationDate="2011-11-09T14:28:22.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One more important point about temperature that isn't immediately obvious to newer brewers is that the ambient temperature of the room is NOT the temperature of the fermenting beer. Fermentation is an intense activity that &lt;strong&gt;produces a lot of heat&lt;/strong&gt;, and the stronger the beer, the more heat is generated as the yeast go nuts eating all the sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a DIPA, I would expect that on day 2-3 of active fermentation, you'll see the temp of the fermenting beer be as much as &lt;strong&gt;10 degrees Fahrenheit higher&lt;/strong&gt; than the air temperature of the room the beer is in. And for an IPA-style brew, this higher temp can really make the beer taste wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To combat this, get a big tub/drum/whatever to put the carboy/bucket in, along with a few gallons of water. Put frozen water bottles or ice packs in the water daily and keep an eye on the temps every 10-12 hours, especially during the first 5 days of fermentation or so. As fermentation slows down, the temperature will slowly drop back down to near ambient temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you are starting the yeast off on the cool side of their preferred range, then maybe the rise in temps will just bring it up to the high end of their acceptable range, in which case everything is fine by itself. But just be prepared to act quickly if you see the temps go above the recommended high range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T14:28:22.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5471" CreationDate="2011-11-09T14:30:15.837" Score="4" ViewCount="934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that a good rule of thumb for brewing water is that if it tastes good it's good to use for brewing.  Most of these nine springs that i've tried are way too mineraly to my taste but &quot;7 Minute&quot; and &quot;Ute Chief&quot; are really good and I'd like to at least use a bit of one to my brew water to add some depth to the beer.  Aside from taste, will any of these minerals affect the yeast in a bad way?  Or will this be simply an aesthetic change to the taste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethan N.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I should add that I'm looking to brew a Double IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUSpH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;local springs and mineral content&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1822" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T19:48:02.620" Title="Any special considerations (besides taste) when brewing with mineral water?" Tags="|techniques|water|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5468" CreationDate="2011-11-09T15:14:27.863" Score="5" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone try making a yeast starter with Corn Sugar instead of DME?  If so what proportions of corn sugar did you use?  I am planning on brewing a high gravity stout, and don't have any DME for the starter, but do have plenty of corn sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1176" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T22:44:24.403" Title="Yeast Starter with Corn Sugar?" Tags="|yeast|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5392" CreationDate="2011-11-09T15:23:11.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easiest solution of all: don't bother fussing about replacing the missing 0.2lbs, just use the 12.0 lbs that you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.2lbs is only 1.6% of 12.2 lbs.  Such a small change will be undetectable taste-wise, ABV-wise, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Methinks this is a case where RDWHAHB* is the best advice...!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(* = Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Homebrew)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1094" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T15:23:11.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5466" CreationDate="2011-11-09T15:29:01.993" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need the starter medium to contain maltose and other nutrients provided by malt, or the yeast that you grow will be poorly suited and/or lose the ability to ferment the maltose in a proper wort.  This is especially true when brewing a high-gravity beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2011-11-10T02:44:10.167" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T02:44:10.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5459" CreationDate="2011-11-09T15:29:50.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A keg weighs just over 30lbs, so keep in mind it can have a good chunk of value simply as stainless scrap (at $1.5/lb it's worth $50).  This will set a floor price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making friends at a friendly neighbourhood microbrewery, if you are fortunate enough to have one, and buying one of their no-longer-serviceable kegs is one good way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1094" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T15:29:50.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5452" CreationDate="2011-11-09T15:40:57.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This very strongly depends on which yeast you use; some yeasts throw pretty strong off-flavours if fermented warmer than their recommended range, others are extremely tolerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never heard of bad flavours coming from fermenting at a temperature lower than recommended.  The only thing that a lower-than-recommended temperature can do, that I am aware of, is to ferment much slower and possibly even not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you mention that this is your first go, I'll point out that the stronger styles of beer (and a Double IPA most definitely counts!) are &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more challenging beers to make well.  It will almost certainly be drinkable, will most likely be impressive, but it will be very difficult to make a strong beer that is great.  Sooner or later I suggest you try making some straightforward 1.045-1.050 beers, while they don't sound nearly as interesting it is actually possible to make something incredibly good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1094" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T15:40:57.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5465" CreationDate="2011-11-09T16:35:41.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am definately not an expert in Water Profiles so take my answer with a grain of salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PH will have an impact on your mash and sparge.  Higher PHs will extract tannin from the husks. The Alkalinity for both profiles you mentioned is a bit high I believe and will resist change in PH. You may want to play with the EZ Water Calculator spreadsheet to work out an amount of Acidulated malt or other additions to drop your mash PH to a desirable level &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/ez-water-calculator-3-0-a-261001/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/ez-water-calculator-3-0-a-261001/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, you could brew a small batch and see how it turns out, if it works, Great! If not, back to tweaking the profile a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T16:35:41.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5465" CreationDate="2011-11-09T16:58:36.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using malt extract, you are probably best off using all Reverse Osmosis or Distilled water. The extract is boiled in water with appropriate mineral levels for most beer styles, so you have no need to add any more minerals to the process. The mineral figures in the chart seem kind of high to me, and will impact the taste. It's fairly easy even as a new brewer to pick out flavors in a beer and to decide if the yeast/hops/malt are responsible for that flavor. When brewing minerals are involved, it starts getting much more complicated. Minerals can make your beer taste: harsh/smooth/sweet/bright/dull/astringent/etc. (It gets even more complicated with All Grain.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T16:58:36.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5465" CreationDate="2011-11-09T19:48:02.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things that water chemistry affects are the chemistry during the mash/runoff, and the interaction with the hops during the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Graham pointed out, if you're not doing a mash then you don't have to worry about the mash chemistry.  (most of this concerns getting the pH into the correct range).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several things that are considered generally &quot;bad&quot; for brewing purposes, so choose a water to avoid or minimize:&#xA;- iron (bad flavour; can give a &quot;bloody&quot; taste)&#xA;- sodium (in highly hopped beers, makes the bitterness harsh and unpleasant)&#xA;- chlorine or chloramine (you won't find this in mineral water but you will in city water; these give bad flavours)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;others are sometimes useful:&#xA;- sulfate ions are good for heavily-hopped ales, they bring out the hop bitterness nicely&#xA;- chloride can add &quot;sweetness&quot; or smoothness (sometimes this is desired, sometimes not)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1094" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T19:48:02.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2175" CreationDate="2011-11-10T15:56:14.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other two answers and their comments are great. For my system, though, kegs are something of a limiting factor and I rarely have an extra empty laying around. If there's not a batch in primary waiting for the old keg to kick, I'll have racked a batch to secondary and have it waiting there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse, with cold water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat. just rack a similar beer in there, charge with CO2, chill and force carbonate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability to do this depends on the throughput of your brewery. (I have thirsty friends.) I would never attempt this if I had any of my containers sitting around for any length of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T15:56:14.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5481" CreationDate="2011-11-10T16:00:03.970" Score="1" ViewCount="2101" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine likes bitter beers but shies away from strongly hopped beers because he's very sensitive to the cheesy or sweaty flavor that hops can give.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed this flavor in a few commercial beers, most recently Six Point's Brownstone Brown Ale which I normally love.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What compound is responsible for this flavor/aroma and what can one do about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ERRONEOUS&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;[Sorry, I misspoke here based on something I heard on the basic brewing podcast.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since lambics and other beers that use debittered hops are specifically trying to attain that cheesy flavor and aroma, I assume that this is a characteristic of old hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDITED&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lambics use debittered hops for their antimicrobial properties. The cheesy flavor that old hops impart is a flaw, usually driven off via the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2011-11-11T16:06:00.083" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T16:11:04.867" Title="What accounts for the cheesy/sweaty flavor of hops and are there ways to minimize it?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5455" CreationDate="2011-11-10T16:03:45.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Palmer has some good information in How to Brew. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a link&lt;/a&gt; to the 'free' edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T16:03:45.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5475" CreationDate="2011-11-10T16:25:33.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bittering comes from the acid resins in the hops. If it's a low acid hop, you're more likely to pick up on the other flavors in the hop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T16:25:33.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5475" CreationDate="2011-11-10T16:42:18.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a sign of oxidation in the hops.  If they smell like that, don't use them.  Lambics and other beers that use old hops aren't trying to achieve that character.  The reason they use old hops is to remove any flavor or aroma characteristics from them, not to get the cheesiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T16:42:18.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5455" CreationDate="2011-11-10T16:53:35.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Martin Brungard's excellent water spreadsheet (free at sites.google.com/site/brunwater/) not only will help you calculate what type of water you need for a particular beer, it also has a great section on water in general that should answer many of your questions.  Your city water report may not give you all the info you need.  For a complete analysis that includes all the info you need to have, go to www.wardlab.com and get test W-6 for about $16.50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T16:53:35.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4336" CreationDate="2011-11-11T01:02:28.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a matter of personal experience, as a young boy many years ago I had a Manchester Terrier who loved beer and who my father would take to the bar every night with her own shot glass. The beer never hurt her and she lived to be 17 years old, outliving my father by several years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have two dogs now, and neither will touch beer. I don't think it harms dogs in small amounts. But again that's based only upon personal observation. It could be that the Hops in beer is bad for them. Who knows?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1834" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T01:02:28.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5475" CreationDate="2011-11-11T15:58:02.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What accounts for it?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, I guess research would've been a better approach here. Took me a couple of Google searches to find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=&amp;amp;t=25694&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;. The culprit is a compound called &lt;strong&gt;isovaleric acid&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting info about it on Wikipedia: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3-Methylbutanoic_acid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3-Methylbutanoic_acid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a product of aging and its attendant oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What to do about it?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the freshest hops you can get.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil longer. Isovaleric acid is apparently a volatile that will be driven off via the boil. You're less likely to have it in the final product if you boil the hops for longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T16:11:04.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5483" CreationDate="2011-11-12T01:35:20.303" Score="11" ViewCount="80911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently inherited a keg system from a friend moving interstate and have just dropped my first batch into the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot;&gt;this chart&lt;/a&gt; from a link here that shows CO2 units by pressure &amp;amp; temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I've filled the keg, applied pressure as dictated by the desired carbonation level &amp;amp; storage temperature, how long does it need to stay there for before I can pour beer after delicious beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it change based on temperature (e.g. am I better off with it in the fridge or ambient temp)?  That chart also mentions it is for &quot;slow force carbing&quot; - is there a quick force carbing method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to give an example, I'm after about 3-3.2 CO2 units in a 19L (5gal) batch and the beer is in the fridge (~40F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-11-12T02:31:05.680" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T21:16:16.960" Title="How long do I need to carbonate a keg?" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5482" CreationDate="2011-11-12T11:04:10.360" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;It takes at least 3 days to be carbed with the sit and wait method you describe.  But a week is really what you need to truly &quot;equilibrate&quot; to the pressure being set.  In your case of shooting for &gt;3 volumes I would definitely expect it to take a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beauty of kegging though is that there is no reason to not pull a half pour after day one, two, six etc etc.  Then you can see how long it takes, and if 3.2 volumes is to much you can stop it right where you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a faster carb method that involves setting the regulator to 30-35PSI and shaking the keg of beer for a few minutes, let it rest for a few, then shake again.  You keep doing that until the beer is carbed to where you want it.  This is a great technique if you finish fermenting a beer on wendseday and you want to bring it to an event on friday.  The only issue I have had with this method is that its fairly imprecise and I end up with over carbed beer, then I am bleeding pressure off.  It works but it takes more effort that I like to invest.&#xA;The sit and wait period seems to work fine for my style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T11:04:10.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-12T18:44:32.707" Score="2" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making chardonnay wine, after the primary fermentation and 1st racking, we added sparkloid (as per instructions) and the wine immediately changed color.  Why is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1838" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-11-13T06:13:25.100" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T06:13:25.100" Title="Chardonnay changed color when sparkkloid was added" Tags="|wine|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5484" CreationDate="2011-11-12T20:06:07.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its because the sparkloid pulls stuff in suspension out of suspension.  Solids in suspension tend to make the wine (or beer) look lighter in color because it reflects more light back at you, as that stuff settles out the more light passes straight through and it appears darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see this effect in action put a tsp of flour into a glass of red wine and stir.  It will look very light in color.  Then as the flour settles out it will get dark again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T20:06:07.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-13T17:27:05.247" Score="10" ViewCount="18271" Body="&lt;p&gt;After getting started with a few kits, I'd like to start experimenting a little bit. I'd like to start off with 1-gallon batches on anything I'm not sure about, though. I have a growler that I'm considering trying to fit an airlock into, and I've also seen some people mention using the 2-gallon fermenter from the Mr. Beer kit for small batches. Are there any other good options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: You can buy the fermenter that comes with the Mr. Beer kit by itself for $15 (but it's on sale for $10 at the moment). Very tempting: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrbeer.com/product-exec/product_id/377&quot;&gt;http://www.mrbeer.com/product-exec/product_id/377&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1756" LastEditorUserId="1756" LastEditDate="2011-11-13T20:51:18.397" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T16:24:55.777" Title="What's a good small-batch fermentation vessel?" Tags="|fermentation|small-batch|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5486" CreationDate="2011-11-13T19:09:29.137" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want the finished batch size to be 1 gal. you'll need to start with a container larger than that.  If that's not much of an issue, you could use a glass gal. jug from wine or apple juice.  You can certainly make a 1 gal. batch in a 5 gal. fermenter, too, but due to the headspace you have to be more careful about air getting to it after fermentation is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T19:09:29.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5486" CreationDate="2011-11-14T13:28:19.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 3 gallon better bottle that has worked nicely for a sour beer experiment.   I also bought a few 1-gallon glass jugs for a mead experiment.   The mead was fermented in a bucket, and then the various fruit and spice additions were added in secondary in the 1-gallon jugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find with the 3-gallon batch that it takes about as much effort to brew a small batch as a 5-10 gallon batch.   It just takes longer to heat/chill the water/wort for the larger batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T13:28:19.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5482" CreationDate="2011-11-14T13:41:34.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had success with 32-25F beer set to 30PSI for 24-36 hours. You can cut that time down if you are willing to occasionally roll the keg on the floor while you are charging it. After 36 hours, bleed the pressure down to serving (11-14 PSI depending) and pour a glass. It will blow off a fair bit of the carbonation into the head foam, so the beer will be a little under-carbed if you let it sit in the glass for a bit, but this will get you in the ballpark fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T13:41:34.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5491" CreationDate="2011-11-14T16:52:41.033" Score="2" ViewCount="1959" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long should a clone of Gulden Draak be aged before comparing it to the real stuff? Our club is trying to get our clone recipe as close as possible, so want to tweak the recipe to get it closer to Gulden Draak if there are significant differences. We want to minimize the chance that the differences are due to our clone being too &quot;green&quot; when we make the comparison. Also, should we age it longer in the carboy vs. in the bottles? The current plan is 14 days of primary, 14 days of secondary, then prime, bottle, and condition for 60-90 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T19:57:36.833" Title="How long should a Belgian Strong Dark Ale be aged?" Tags="|conditioning|aging|belgian|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5490" CreationDate="2011-11-14T19:57:36.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not a rule for how long to age a beer other than &quot;until it's ready to drink&quot;.  You have to determine that yourself.  Most Belgian breweries don't age the beer long.  According to &quot;Brew Like a Monk&quot;, a few weeks is the average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T19:57:36.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5493" CreationDate="2011-11-14T21:06:57.277" Score="13" ViewCount="7939" Body="&lt;p&gt;The prevailing wisdom seems to be that dry hopping is for aroma only, and effects on flavor are assumed to be a matter of perception. (i.e. smell affects taste)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, while attempting to &quot;fix&quot; a beer that came out far too sweet, I have been looking into hop extracts, etc.  While researching I came across this message:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From a chemical point of view, dry hopping will extract all of the alpha and beta acids in hops. The humulones, lupulones and other volatile oils are isomerized in the alcohol and water (the alcohol dues most of the extraction). Yes, more aroma and flavor will be extracted, but so will bitterness. We dry hop most of the time to add aroma to the beer, so most of the time we dry hop with low alpha acid &quot;aroma&quot; hops. Try dry hopping with Galena, Perle, Simcoe, Challenger, Northern Brewer or other high alpha acid hop. You will get the bitterness!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true?  Will using high-alpha hops for dry hopping contribute bitterness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastEditorUserId="687" LastEditDate="2011-11-14T22:17:40.297" LastActivityDate="2024-03-14T02:38:54.390" Title="Will Dry Hopping Add Bitterness?" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|bitterness|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5492" CreationDate="2011-11-14T21:59:47.857" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;That quote you posted is a mess.  I don't even know what they're trying to say there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, dry hopping will add bitterness, but not in the usual sense (which is iso-alpha acids).  Dry hopping is done cold, so there is essentially no isomerization of alpha acids going on, which is what normally happens in the kettle boil.  The bitterness that comes from dry hopping is mostly from polyphenols.  The polyphenols of low-molecular weight will add bitterness (catechin, epicatechin, procyanidin, prodelphinidin, etc), while the higher molecular weight polyphenols (tannins) will add astringency.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersensoryscience.wordpress.com/tag/bitterness/&quot;&gt;Beer Sensory Science, Bitterness&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersensoryscience.wordpress.com/tag/astringency/&quot;&gt;Beer Sensory Science, Astringency&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1841" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T21:59:47.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-15T00:21:50.350" Score="3" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a lot of recipes I have read, there is an emphasis on the freshness of the malt and hops. If I am buying online or in my homebrew store, how do I determine the freshness of what I am buying? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there some maltsters that are better than others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there a &quot;born on&quot; date on the malt? If so, what is a good length of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the time from when the grain was harvested? or the time from when it was malted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: how can I make sure I am getting the freshest ingredients?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="296" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T01:11:48.233" Title="How do I determine the freshness of malt &amp; hops?" Tags="|hops|malt|grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5494" CreationDate="2011-11-15T01:11:48.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you actually have the ingredients in your hands, you just have to take someone's word for it.  Once you have your ingredients, chew a few grains of malt.  They should be hard and &quot;steely&quot;, not soft and mushy.  Hops should smell like hops...if they have a &quot;cheesy&quot; aroma or no aroma at all, they're old.  You can also ask when the hops were harvested.  Hops are generally harvested in late Aug./early Sept.  American hops make their way to market soon after that.  Continental varieties usually show up here around the first of the year.  Hops should be vacuum packed and stored cold, ideally in a freezer.  Grain should be kept tightly sealed in a cool, dry place.  Check how your LHBS stores their ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T01:11:48.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5502" CreationDate="2011-11-15T19:20:51.920" Score="3" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed 2 batches of a blackberry sour in October 2010 that's nearly ready to bottle. 1 is with Roeselare, the 2nd is with lacto/pedio and both batches will be blended together after the new year. I'm trying to plan ahead so I can make sure that this goes without a hitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to have months of waiting ruined because I bottle-conditioned the wrong way. Which yeast should I use with corn sugs to bottle-condition this blackberry sour, and how long should I let the beer settle/carbonate before drinking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks for any suggestions you can offer!&#xA;BG&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T20:27:29.843" Title="what yeast should I use to bottle condition my blackberry sour?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|sour|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-15T19:35:58.143" Score="5" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a Sweet Potato Ale and was toying with the idea of using maple syrup or sap.  One thought was to substitute a gallon of water with a gallon of sap, if that is economically feasible.  I did read people saying to either boil with syrup or rack with syrup.  What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T02:59:50.940" Title="Using Maple Syrup/Sap in Brew" Tags="|ale|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5497" CreationDate="2011-11-15T20:02:59.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can either add maple syrup to the mash / boil, or add it in lieu of priming sugar for a subtler taste.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vthomebrewguru.com/first-spring-brew/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; has information on brewing a bock beer with maple syrup.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1815" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T20:02:59.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-15T20:53:49.567" Score="6" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have about 3 gallons worth of IPA that are sitting in bottles.  I just got a new 5 gallon keg and I really want to use it.  Would it be a good idea to empty my bottles into the keg or is this something I should never do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1847" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T13:23:48.153" Title="Emptying bottles into a keg" Tags="|beer|bottling|keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5499" CreationDate="2011-11-15T21:11:30.773" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your IPA in the bottles any good? Is the carbonation OK? If so, then &lt;strong&gt;do not do this&lt;/strong&gt;, or you risk ruining the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving the beer from bottles to a keg introduces a great deal of oxygen into the beer, which will dramatically shorten the shelf life of the brew and possibly introduce off flavors pretty quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I actually did this exact thing 2 weeks ago.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; A friend of mine had a batch of pumpkin ale that never carbed in the bottle, so we carefully poured the bottles into a keg and charged it up. HOWEVER, the beer wasn't great (not sure if it was the base beer or the transfer to the keg) and I don't expect it to get any better, in fact, it will probably start getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2011-11-20T13:23:48.153" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T13:23:48.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5497" CreationDate="2011-11-16T02:37:48.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed an ale with maple sap (6gals) and maple syrup last spring. it turned out OK but not great. I plan to experiment with a couple other recipes next spring. Give it a try, it might take a few tries but it works.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1849" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T02:37:48.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5496" CreationDate="2011-11-16T20:27:29.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take some and add sugar (half starter, half priming), Let it sit with a balloon or something on it to tell if positive pressure is created. This will tell you if you still have some viable yeast to condition with or if you need to pitch new yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have to re-pitch I would probably pitch something VERY neutral and probably wouldn't do a starter, but somebody else may have input on that one. I would also shake/stir carefully but thoroughly to make sure you get even distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T20:27:29.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5486" CreationDate="2011-11-16T22:31:52.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one of the Speidel tanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2011/10/speidel-plastic-fermenters-from-more.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2011/10/speidel-plastic-fermenters-from-more.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 12L Size would be great for small batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1853" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T22:31:52.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5507" CreationDate="2011-11-16T23:36:50.900" Score="5" ViewCount="1370" Body="&lt;p&gt;My roommate and I brewed our first batch of beer, a Rogue Dead Guy clone (with some substitutions). The brew has finished secondary fermentation and our hydrometer reads 1.007 (temperature-adjusted). With an OG of 1.033 This gives our beer an ABV of around 3.4. While the beer itself tastes great, we were hoping for something a little stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the recipe we ended up using:&#xA;1 lb Cara-Munich&#xA;1 lb Munich&#xA;1/2 lb Crystal 40L&#xA;Steeped at 155 F for 30 minutes, then 1/2 gallon of water at 170 F was poured over the grain bag into pot. I think this is sparging, but I'm not sure :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added 4 lb Alexanders Pale LME, 4 lbs LDME. 1 oz Perle hops at 60 minutes, 1/3 oz Warrior at 30, 1/3 oz Warrior at 5, and 1/4 oz Saaz at 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wort was cooled to 75 F and the yeast was pitched. We transferred to a carboy and filled it up to five-and-some-change gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two questions. We realized later that the tap water we filled up with has a pH of 7.8 - is this too alkaline? Finally, is there anything we could do now to get fermentation started again (i.e., yeast energizers, shamanic chants, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:46:09.877" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:46:09.877" Title="Low original and final gravity" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5486" CreationDate="2011-11-17T07:35:21.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently using a 1 gallon jug (link below), and it's working great.  Best of all, it was $5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/1-gallon-glass-jug.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/1-gallon-glass-jug.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T07:35:21.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5505" CreationDate="2011-11-17T14:42:16.290" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well for starters, if you are &lt;strong&gt;SURE&lt;/strong&gt; that you actually had 8lbs of extract, and you are &lt;strong&gt;SURE&lt;/strong&gt; that you had approx 5 gallons of wort after adding the water, then there is &lt;strong&gt;NO WAY you actually had 1.033 starting gravity&lt;/strong&gt;. More than likely, what happened was that the boiled wort and the top-off water didn't mix thoroughly and you took a sample from an area where the wort wasn't  particularly well mixed. You see this error in gravity a lot with extract brewing. Fortunately, it doesn't impact anything, as the solution becomes homogenized within a short time anyway, and the yeasties plow through it with no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, don't worry about pH for extract beers. If you water tastes good, it will make OK beer. The main thing you really have to watch out for are chlorine and chloramine, which will make a pale beer taste like pool water. Water pH is mostly a concern for all-grain brewing during the mashing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So given that you probably have a beer with a &quot;real&quot; starting gravity of 1.070, then you don't need to try to re-start fermentation. In fact, with a final gravity of 1.007, there aren't too many ale yeasts who can drop it any lower. I'm surprised that it's that low for a beer with 1.5lbs of crystal in addition to whatever crystal is baked into extract these days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T14:42:16.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2934" CreationDate="2011-11-17T21:12:21.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just found this place today: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grogtag.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.grogtag.com&lt;/a&gt; They make re-stickable vinyl labels, and have a template for you to upload your own label for them to print. Prices looked pretty good, too: under $1 per label, and cheaper if you buy more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1756" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T21:12:21.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5486" CreationDate="2011-11-18T16:01:07.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An option I've used for small ferments is Utz pretzel canisters.  They're #1 PET plastic, have a wide mouth with a screw top, and are just over 1 gallon.  Perfect for test batches.  Just drill the lid for an airlock (or use plastic wrap over the mouth) and Bob's your uncle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T16:01:07.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5505" CreationDate="2011-11-18T16:20:11.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting this recipe into BeerSmith shows that the starting gravity from just the LME and DME is 1.066 and an estimated final gravity of 1.014, giving an ABV of 5.7%.  Adding the specialty grains and 65% effeciency yields 1.077 for starting gravity, 1.014 for final and ABV of 8%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to verify:&#xA;1.  As the first answer said, you can get an inaccurate SG reading if the wort are not mixed properly.&#xA;2.  Did you adjust your SG reading for temperature?  For example, a 1.03 @ 120 is really 1.0404 @ 60.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a final gravity reading of 1.008, you are likely done.  Let the beer condition, carbonate and enjoy it.  Sounds like it will be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1862" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T16:20:11.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5497" CreationDate="2011-11-19T02:59:50.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well it depends on what you want out of the brew.  If you want some maple syrup flavor in the final brew, using syrup is the way to go.  Adding it late in the boil with preserve some of the aromatics.  It is nearly 100% fermentable, so using it for priming is probably the best idea to really preserve flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sap tastes like a strange water.  If you boil 6 gallons down to 5 gallons it tastes like...strange water.  You need to boil it down considerably for it to taste even remotely maple-like.  Using sap is a novelty thing, but it does nothing for the flavor of the brew really.  And using one gallon of sap will really taste like nothing was added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T02:59:50.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5569" CreationDate="2011-11-19T10:46:18.577" Score="3" ViewCount="13284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just about to start my first attempts at wine making. We bought a gallon of organic, concentrated, concord grape juice to use for some other recipes and I have so much left over that I'm going to try making wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found some basic instructions on the web that seem quite simple and I'd like to find out if this will really produce a decent wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without going into specific amounts, the recipe just calls for the reconstituted juice, yeast and sugar all placed into a recycled 3 liter wine bottle with a balloon on top which supposedly will tell me when the fermentation has stopped enough to bottle the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1866" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:46:49.840" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T16:15:59.790" Title="Making wine from concord grape juice" Tags="|fermentation|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5486" CreationDate="2011-11-19T13:56:03.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KCWop.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;primo water station&quot;&gt;Go to the grocery store and pick-up a 3 gallon Primo water bottle for about $8.  Use the clean-tasting water in your brew, then put your normal carboy topper and airlock on it to ferment.  Or you can buy a rubber stopper, drill it, and mod the blue cap that comes on the primo bottle to accept the stopper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T13:56:03.220" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2934" CreationDate="2011-11-19T14:17:58.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bring a thumb-drive to Office Max, Office Depot or one of those places before I spent a lot of money on &quot;offset&quot; printing.  Those office stores have really good color printers and are really inexpensive.  They will print on various label stock they have, or you can bring your own label stock (even cheaper).  I made a JPG with 6 labels per page, so labeled a 5 gallon batch of 12oz bottles for just a few bucks.  Also, they do it while you wait, which is a big plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xusxP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;www.beerlabelizer.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in the spirit of saving money, you can even make your labels online for free (or donate) and download the JPG file at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beerlabelizer.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.beerlabelizer.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T14:17:58.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5482" CreationDate="2011-11-19T14:48:59.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can go from uncarbonated in the fermenter to carbonated in the keg in about 15 minutes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is agitation.  Just the other day I witnessed a guy take a batch that had been cold-crashed, racked it to the keg, agitated, and served properly carbonated beer in 30 minutes (we had an issue with racking, so took a bit longer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you turn on the CO2 and adjust the screw on the regulator to set it based on one of those charts you can find on the internet where you select the number of volumes and the temperature and it gives you the PSI to set. You will hear gas bubbling inside the keg. It will continue for a little while and then stop. This is because the keg is standing upright and there is only a small amount of surface area for the CO2 to dissolve into. To increase the surface area, place a towel on your lap and set the keg on its side on your lap. Shaking or rolling the keg will start the flow of gas again. Eventually no matter how much you roll or shake the keg, no more carbon dioxide will go into solution and you won't hear any more bubbles in the keg. Your beer is now fully carbonated, although it's best to let the keg set inside your kegerator for a few hours to settle down before you try to dispense it, you can be drinking beer right away, albeit with a bit of head on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the above stolen from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winning-homebrew.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;winning-homebrew&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T14:48:59.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5459" CreationDate="2011-11-19T15:03:49.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get new ones for $90 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=375_38_331&amp;amp;products_id=168&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;new sanke keg link&lt;/a&gt;), or you can buy pre-converted stuff at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewmagic.com/product_categories/kettles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brew magic&lt;/a&gt; for more money, of course.  Recent Craig's List prices in NC for kegs with questionable heritage has been $30 to $50.  The story behind these kegs was that the brewery rep was repeatedly called to pick-up the kegs, and the bar was out of space, so they went to whoever showed-up with the deposit money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T15:03:49.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5424" CreationDate="2011-11-19T16:31:49.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's another pretty nice board out there LPC1769 LPCXpresso board (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lpctools.com/lpc1768.lpcxpresso.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LPCTools.com&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an ARM Cortex-3 processor with a complete development environment, all the software is free, including and Eclipse-based IDE (that's integrated development environment for the non-coders out there).  The board itself costs 30 bucks, and all you need is a USB cable to plug it into a Windows, a Mac, or a Linux machine. It actually has two processors. The LPC 1768 is the interface for USB. And then the LPC 1769 is the actual target processor on this little board.  And you'd be coding on a processor that is used in smart phones, so maybe could be useful skills, and not just for brewing, hehe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T16:31:49.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-19T19:04:56.283" Score="4" ViewCount="905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;strong&gt;Oatmeal Stout&lt;/strong&gt; in the secondary fermenter (carboy) and it's been there for about a week. I checked the hydrometer reading this morning and it's at 1.020. The og was about 1.052, and when I moved from the Primary to secondary it was about 1.024. I was aiming for a FG of 1.010. Any ideas? Can I keep in the secondary for another week? Can I gently shake the carboy to awaken the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1868" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2011-11-20T13:24:42.537" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T13:29:32.643" Title="Secondary Fermentation - Gravity too high to bottle but it's not going anywhere" Tags="|fermentation|secondary|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5518" CreationDate="2011-11-19T19:15:33.127" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warm it up to 70-75 prior to swirling it to rouse the yeast.  Give it another week or two then check it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing your recipe and process its hard to really tell. It could be as done as its going to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time leave it in primary until its at the final gravity.  You have less yeast to work with now than you did when it was in primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: So you steeped oatmeal with your specialty grains. You are likely at terminal gravity.  The oatmeal contributes unfermentable starch to the wort when not converted with a mash of some sort. That starch will hold up your final gravity considerably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-11-20T13:29:32.643" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T13:29:32.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5518" CreationDate="2011-11-19T19:21:42.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How were you &quot;aiming for&quot; a FG of 1.010?  What was your recipe like that made you think you'd hit that FG?  Depending on your recipe, you could very well be done.  The advice to warm it up and wait a while is good, but you still might not hit that FG if you used a high level of unfermentables.  That makes much more difference than the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T19:21:42.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="324" CreationDate="2011-11-19T20:27:40.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several factors play a role in the quality of the beer poured from a keg. The major ones are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Beer Temperature: This will affect how readily the beer absorbs CO2. Colder beer absorbs CO2 into solution more readily. The lower the temp. the lower the pressure required to obtain a given number of volumes of CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keg Pressure: Along with beer temperature, this will control the actual volumes of CO2 in solution.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Beer Line Inside Diameter: This provides resistance, keeping CO2 in solution by slowing the pour.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Beer Line Temperature: Warm beer lines will warm the beer as it travels from the keg to your glass, causing a release of CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Beer Line Length: This provides resistance, keeping CO2 in solution by slowing the pour.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Beer Line Rise to Tap: The height of the tap from the center of the keg. This provides resistance, keeping CO2 in solution by slowing the pour. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to the site I cited below and perform the calculations yourself as they are very dependent on your unique requirements. To say just use X' of tubing without knowing &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the other variables is not sufficient to fully answer your question. Having the correct measurements for each of the factors is pretty simple, the hardest probably measuring the rise from keg to faucet. The site has examples and I think you'll find that at the temperature and pressure numbers you provided, 5-6' is more closer to what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All information taken from: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/07/18/getting-a-good-pour-kegged-beer-co2-line-length-and-pressure/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/07/18/getting-a-good-pour-kegged-beer-co2-line-length-and-pressure/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T20:27:40.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5523" CreationDate="2011-11-20T00:49:32.243" Score="14" ViewCount="7860" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recipe calls for fermentation at 70°F (21°C), basement is 65°F (18°C). I know that fermentation produces some heat, so I was wondering if just letting yeast do its thing will be enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, do I need to move my carboy to a warmer room upstairs or find a way to heat it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1869" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T14:23:22.087" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T14:24:21.890" Title="How many degrees will my carboy heat up as a result of fermentation activity?" Tags="|fermentation|temperature|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5522" CreationDate="2011-11-20T02:26:27.120" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The temperature rise will be depend on how vigorous the fermentation is, and on the volume and shape of the vessel you ferment in.  You'll see a temperature rise of about 5-10 degrees on the homebrew scale, in my experience.  Still, it varies widely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest getting one of the thermometer strips available at your local homebrew shops.  They are reasonably accurate, and they're an easy way to monitor the actual fermentation temperature.  And they're cheap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find that your temperature is too far off, there are some cheap and effective ways of controlling temperature, up and down.  For example, if you find that your temperature is too cold, you can use an aquarium heater to warm it a bit.  If you find that your fermentation is too warm, you can use the &quot;swamp cooler&quot; method by wrapping the fermentor in a wet towel or cloth and putting a fan on it, or put it in an ice bath in your bathtub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that said, if there aren't drastic swings in temperature (such as might result from strong drafts or being near a heating vent), then your 65°F (18.3°C) basement will likely give you a good, not-too-hot fermentation.  Still, I would get a thermometer so that you can monitor it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T14:24:21.890" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T14:24:21.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5528" CreationDate="2011-11-20T03:55:59.390" Score="2" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a high-gravity belgian ale, which after 3 weeks of fermentation is holding at 1.058--very, very sweet to the taste.  Its first few days of fermentation were very active, and I fear I may not have topped it off quite enough.  I'll be digging through my notes to determine if that's the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is true that I started with too little water (and I took a shortcut and skipped taking an OG reading--stupid) then is it possible to rescue the batch by adding distilled or boiled and cooled water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After further review I think this is actually a stuck fermentation.  I considered the possibility I was low on water due to using a new carboy which I quickly marked with gradations--and was concerned I had inaccurate markings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2011-11-20T15:36:39.913" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T22:00:48.767" Title="Can I rescue a batch that may not have had enough water at its start?" Tags="|water|stuck-fermentation|mistakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5518" CreationDate="2011-11-20T04:53:43.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cooper's dry yeast by any chance?  But yeah, you can certainly leave it in the secondary another week or more.  It won't hurt anything and may help you get a clearer, cleaner beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can gently swirl the carboy, and as another answer mentioned, try warming it up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T04:53:43.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5522" CreationDate="2011-11-20T04:55:48.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, pretty much any ale yeast will do fine at 65°F (18.3°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a Russian Imperial Stout that I was keeping at 65°F (18.3°C) in my temp controlled chest freezer.  I took it out during fermentation to clean up a messy blow-off, and it was up to 72°F (22°C) within minutes.  So fermentation can generate quite a bit of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T14:23:52.900" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T14:23:52.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5085" CreationDate="2011-11-20T06:19:11.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand the specific mash temperature allows the grain molecules to form chains (the temperature determines the length of chain). At a certain length they are &quot;fermentable&quot; and another &quot;unformentable&quot;. the unfermentable chains are what make up aroma and flavor as well as other things, there for I believe that you would need to mash the grains to get anything out of them. can't hurt to try though! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T06:19:11.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5524" CreationDate="2011-11-20T13:36:37.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding water will lower your gravity through dilution.  It will also dilute out all your other attributes (flavor, alcohol, mouthfeel, color etc etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being stuck at 1.058 seems too high to be simply off due to water dilution (unless you forgot to add several gallons to a concentrated boil).  Being stuck at 1.058 is likely a fermentation/yeast management issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without know your recipe and process (and actual OG) its hard to offer solutions.&#xA;However you may need to think about making a larger active starter of fresh yeast and adding that.  Hopefully you have enough volume in your fermentor to do this.  Another option would be to just patiently let this beer sit.  Brew another beer and rack directly on the cake of that beer after it finishes out.  Again this is all BS and speculation without knowing your recipe and process from brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-11-20T22:00:48.767" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T22:00:48.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5524" CreationDate="2011-11-20T19:01:16.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure what yeast you used but assuming it was a Belgian strain which are more tolerant to higher alcohol levels, then I would certainly look at pitching rate like the last answer said. If the yeast was pitched right out of the fridge (cold) you might have shocked the yeast, or if the yeast got to hot before pitched same problem unhealthy yeast pretty much going to die. you can also stress the yeast out by simply under pitching, I always make a starter no matter what style i brew but it is a must for brewing big beers. there are about 100 billion yeast cells in both white labs vials and smack packs, I do a 1/2 cup light DME to 1 liter water starter and that about doubles the yeast cells in 24 hours, I would suggest using a pitching rate calculator to determine how many cells you need per beer then create a starter accordingly. reading back through your question it sounds more like you might have to many unfermentables, in this case you could brew another batch with a higher attenuating yeast and less unfermentables and blend the two together! just be clean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T19:01:16.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5535" CreationDate="2011-11-20T20:00:20.413" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been growing and using my own hops for a couple of years now. after harvesting this year I left them out to dry, they have been drying now for a little to long (about two months) they are all brown and papery. just wondering what the effects of being left out are, oxidization? alpha and beta acid loss? should I just toss them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T18:52:17.200" Title="Old homegrown hops" Tags="|hops|bittering|alpha-acids|oxidation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5530" CreationDate="2011-11-20T20:55:07.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effects are pretty much as you state.  Personally, I wouldn't use them.  I guess maybe if you were making a lambic you could use them, but that's about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T20:55:07.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5085" CreationDate="2011-11-21T13:59:38.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that it's a very interesting question.  I don't think just adding sterilized grain to the beer will do much, though.  I imagine you'd end up with more cardboard/wet cereal flavors and aromas than anything else, especially if you leave them in for an extended time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might try steeping the grains in hot water such that you extract aromas and flavors, but don't activate the enzymes for starch conversion (will look up some temps later).  That way you could add that wort to your finished beer to add character without the yeast getting much more food to eat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T13:59:38.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5566" CreationDate="2011-11-21T19:33:03.617" Score="4" ViewCount="1771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my first extract batch in awhile yesterday (5.5 gal Great Lakes Christmas Ale clone), and I feel I may have cooled it too much.  I got 2.5 gallons of the concentrated wort down to about 98deg, then mixed with 3 gallons of cool filtered water, probably about 45 degrees.  The brilliant man that I am, I didn't take a temperature of the combind wort.  However, if my mathematics figerrin' is right, thats about 68.4 degrees average temp based on the proportions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I need this to ferment relatively quickly and it turned out even bigger than expected (OG of 1.095), I pitched 2 vials of WLP002 and put it in my basement, with an ambient temp of about 65 degrees.  My wife said it was bubbling this morning, but not vigorously (I have heard of multiple airlock blows with this beer).  I'm trying to get a vigorous and quick primary fermentation on this one, so I can move it to a secondary with the requisite spices and have it in the bottles before xmas.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I move to a warmer area of the house?  I usually keep my thermostat at about 67-70 degrees.  Any thoughts would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2011-11-24T16:17:27.463" Title="I might have pitched at too low a temperature" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5533" CreationDate="2011-11-21T20:13:10.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the basement stays at 65, I don't see a problem with this.  Sounds like you've got enough yeast, and the temperatures you have are right in the sweet spot for that strain, (65-68F). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1841" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T20:13:10.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5530" CreationDate="2011-11-21T20:15:25.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Efficiency* will be lower (due to alpha acid degradation) and aromas will be missing, and you'll likely have some cheesy/sweaty off-flavors from isovaleric acid.  Toss them and buy some fresher ones.     *edit:  changed from &quot;utilization&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1841" LastEditorUserId="1841" LastEditDate="2011-11-22T13:39:25.993" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T13:39:25.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5533" CreationDate="2011-11-21T21:05:49.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only is it not too cold, it is in fact, &lt;strong&gt;too warm&lt;/strong&gt; and could possibly make &lt;strong&gt;crappy beer&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 1.095 beer is going to ferment with a LOT of activity and heat. The real temp of that beer today or tomorrow is going to be close to 70-75F if the ambient temp is 65F. Anything over 70F and you've got a real danger of developing fusel alcohols that taste bad and do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; age out the way other flavors do. They'll also give you a hell of a hangover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get that carboy cooled down to 63-66F by any means necessary unless you want a beer that is undrinkable for 6 months, and barely drinkable after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T21:05:49.280" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5085" CreationDate="2011-11-21T22:08:25.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that you make Black IPAs usually by steeping Carafa III in cold water to extract colour only, I don't think you'd get much flavour out of adding malt to fermented beer. Plus the high chance of infection would mean you'd end up with some pretty interesting flavours...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T22:08:25.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5486" CreationDate="2011-11-21T22:10:39.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a 5 Litre PET water bottle which you can get in most supermarkets - I buy mine from an online source (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewuk.co.uk/5-litre-pet-demi-john.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewuk.co.uk/5-litre-pet-demi-john.html&lt;/a&gt;) but it's the same as water bottles. I put 4 litres in a use a whole packet of dry or wet yeast and always have a blow off. If you don't dry hop and are careful you can get 12 330ml bottles from it. It's not cheap but it's a pretty quick way of making beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastEditorUserId="3977" LastEditDate="2016-11-25T20:03:31.167" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T20:03:31.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-21T22:14:11.440" Score="10" ViewCount="14926" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made 3 batches of beer now which each had the same off flavour but I don't really have a clear idea of the source of the problem. It's a kind of soapy cleaning flavour but doesn't match up any flavour descriptor that I've come across. It persists across split batches so is not down to fermentation problems as far as I know but seems to be inherent in the beer. I did think it was something to do with the bottling bucket but I've made and bottled unaffected beer in between the off flavoured ones. It's a long shot but does that sound familiar to anyone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastActivityDate="2018-08-25T00:28:45.897" Title="Soapy off-flavour source?" Tags="|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5539" CreationDate="2011-11-21T22:52:11.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long do you leave your beer in primary?  It's possible that you are leaving it too long on the trub, which can cause soapy flavors due to breakdown of fatty acids in the trub.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other guess is that it has something to do with your sanitizer and not cleaning your equipment properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1815" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T22:52:11.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5539" CreationDate="2011-11-21T22:52:52.090" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may help:  From John Palmer's &lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Soapy flavors can caused by not washing your glass very well, but they can also be produced by the fermentation conditions. If you leave the beer in the primary fermentor for a relatively long period of time after primary fermentation is over (&quot;long&quot; depends on the style and other fermentation factors), soapy flavors can result from the breakdown of fatty acids in the trub. Soap is, by definition, the salt of a fatty acid; so you are literally tasting soap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-2.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this while reading &lt;em&gt;Brewing Classic Styles&lt;/em&gt; by Jamil Zainasheff:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If your water is highly alkaline, the beer pH may be too high, causing the beer to taste dull, &lt;strong&gt;soapy&lt;/strong&gt;, or excessively bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you checked your local water report?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastEditorUserId="981" LastEditDate="2011-12-01T20:59:23.843" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T20:59:23.843" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5533" CreationDate="2011-11-22T03:42:46.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too am brewing a couple winter warmers right now (1.090) one a week old  and one a day old. &lt;strong&gt;I always start my fermentation out a little cold&lt;/strong&gt; (max 5 deg from suggested, 2 or 3 if i can help it) that way the yeast has a chance to get comfy and rev up. Both batches pitched at low 60's, and the other answer is very correct about fermentation raising the temp, the first batch got up to 65 deg before it started back down (room temp 70), Iv'e never seen one go 10 deg though. according to the vial the acceptable temp range for WLP002 is 65-68 so you will be just fine where it's at. It's better to wait and be late then rush and give out crappy beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T03:42:46.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5522" CreationDate="2011-11-22T04:35:43.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Yeah, pretty much any ale yeast will do fine at 65.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I had a Russian Imperial Stout that I was keeping at 65 in my temp&#xA;  controlled chest freezer. I took it out during fermentation to clean&#xA;  up a messy blow-off, and it was up to 72 within minutes. So&#xA;  fermentation can generate quite a bit of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be curious if this person was using a stick-on thermometer, wise choice, but that would explain the wild temp changes. it reads the temp it contacts and if the ambient temp in the &quot;freezer&quot; was 65 and outside was 72, well there ya go. secondary convincing: how long does it take to heat up 5 gallons on a burner or stove? it would take a crazy amount of fermentation heat to go up in temp that fast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T04:35:43.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5547" CreationDate="2011-11-22T05:30:34.567" Score="2" ViewCount="4194" Body="&lt;p&gt;working on improving recipe formulation and wondering which is better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for good mouth feel and head retention,(who isn't I guess) but most of all a big malt forward beer. In doing unrelated research I found that the region I live in (Northwest) produces way more malty beers then other regions, for example our amber ale would be would not fit in the BJCP style guidelines on the east coast. Just curios if anyone has experimented with either of these two grains or any other similar types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Formerly brewed all-grain on a sabco machine but currently working on partial mash recipes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T01:10:45.300" Title="Special B -OR- CaraPils?" Tags="|grain|recipe|partial-mash|specialty-grains|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1969" CreationDate="2011-11-22T05:54:53.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish I could up &lt;em&gt;brewchez&lt;/em&gt;'s answer but don't have enough &quot;reputation&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically stating out on partial mash are just for flavor and color, loosely all your fermentables come from the extract (even brewing a big beer I use light liquid malt extract). I &lt;strong&gt;steep&lt;/strong&gt; the specialty grains for 20 minutes not an hour just enough to get color and flavor, you could &quot;sparge&quot; but I just crank up the kettle after 20 minutes then take the grains out when it hits about 170F. On another note when stating recipe formulation compile the info from several like recipes to make one, each recipe you find should be formulated for the proper O.G and F.G or close so no need to calculate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T05:54:53.473" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-11-22T05:54:53.473" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5544" CreationDate="2011-11-22T13:19:47.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each of those tastes quite different from the other.   Special B is more like a raisiny Crystal 120L than anything.    Carapils is going to give you a lot of dextrins, and is probably what you're after as far as a thicker mouthfeel and head retention, but it isn't going to add much in the way of flavor.   Some flaked adjunct grains (barley, oats, etc.) would work for the stated goals you have as well, though you will definitely need to mash those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T13:19:47.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5544" CreationDate="2011-11-22T13:25:32.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Special B and CaraPils are as different as night and day, so it's going to be hard to compare them directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Special B is a very dark Crystal Malt (about 140-150L), typically Belgian in origin, which is used to add flavors like: very dark caramel, raisin, or plum. It is the specialty grain that makes Belgian Amber Abbey Ales taste a bit raisin-like, and Dubbels taste pruny. It does give a bit of increased body because it's a crystal malt, but not much, because you typically never use more than 8-10oz of it. I use it often in levels around 4oz and enjoy it in Dunkelweizens especially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CaraPils is a pale crystal malt (10L) used to add body and head retention to very pale beers with little to no color or flavor adjustment. You can use as much as a full pound on a pale, otherwise thin beer, but I wouldn't go much over that unless you want a chewy beer. Often times, all grain brewers will lower the amount of CaraPils in a recipe and just mash higher. When using CaraPils in conjunction with other Crystal Malts, don't forget that CaraPils is a type of Crystal on its own, so don't go too heavy on either if you use both (unless your intention is for a thick, rich beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T13:25:32.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5552" CreationDate="2011-11-22T16:53:36.923" Score="6" ViewCount="3566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making ginger beer, the old fashioned way with a plant. The plant is a jamjar which I feed with one teaspoon of sugar and powdered ginger daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going on holiday soon, for several weeks. I've been nurturing this plant for a couple of months and it's getting really nice, and I don't want to have to start again from scratch. What can I do to preserve it while I'm away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have access to a fridge (about 3ºC) and a freezer (about -10ºC). Given that the plant is a rather complex symbiotic mixture of yeast and bacteria, can I halt both their metabolism simply by putting it in the fridge? Can I freeze it without killing it off completely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I'm worried about is that given that the plant lives at room temperature and covered only by a cloth, secondary infections are prevented partly by the sterilising effect of the ginger and ethanol, but mostly by the way that there's a hell of a lot of plant there and it's simply outcompeting any wild yeast or bacteria. If I damage the plant too much it won't be able to do this any more, and I run the risk of poisoning the plant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Update:&lt;/b&gt; I'm not posting this as an answer become someone else already has that honour, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After forgetting about the one in the fridge for too long it went manky and I threw it away. However, I recently brought the one in the freezer out of cryosuspension, fed it up for a week, and bottled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out that freezing thoroughly kills a ginger beer plant. After a week and a half the bottles are totally failing to pressurise. And now one of the bottles is going mouldy on top (the mould is floating on the surface of the liquid). To me this suggests that the ethanol content isn't high enough to kill off the mould. So I reckon that's a total failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think now I'm going to have to start again from scratch; which is a shame, as I was getting a really good flavour out of it. It may be possible to salvage some of that by recycling the liquid from the culture, but it's probably not worth the risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T17:47:29.810" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T21:57:52.487" Title="Pausing a ginger beer plant" Tags="|yeast|storage|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5548" CreationDate="2011-11-22T17:55:15.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give it to a friend to look after. I can remember my wee brother looking after a friends plant while they were on holiday. The reward? My brother got some of the plant, which he grew on and we got ginger beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T17:55:15.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5530" CreationDate="2011-11-22T18:52:17.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used &quot;expired&quot; hop flakes before, and BeerSensor's characterization of them as having &quot;cheesy/sweaty off-flavors&quot; is absolutely correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that particular batch, an ~6% ABV IPA, the nose was almost entirely absent of Amarillo (the expired hops in question), and there was very little hoppy bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1427" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T18:52:17.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5447" CreationDate="2011-11-23T00:29:15.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the type of agave nectar you use carefully. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agave_nectar#Culinary_use&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; has a summary of basic taste differences between light, amber, dark, and raw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1427" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T00:29:15.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5548" CreationDate="2011-11-23T01:08:43.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeasts can be stored in cold temperatures for quite a while, provided they aren't open to the air. I'm not sure about lactic bacteria though, since a lot of them are located in other living organisms. Best bet would be to split your plant, try to keep one going with a friend or family member as fatboab suggested, and keep the other in the refrigerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have enough, you could split it three ways and try out the freezer too, but I'd worry about damaging the plant ecology if you split it too small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;additional advice&lt;/em&gt;: If the plant is in suspension (ie liquid) don't freeze it - the ice needles will puncture the yeast cysts. If the liquid contains sugar, you should be able to store it in a cool-room at 0 degrees C without it freezing. It may gallop a bit in a domestic fridge at 4 deg. C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1427" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-04-27T23:21:33.353" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T23:21:33.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5544" CreationDate="2011-11-23T01:10:45.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, neither of those malts drives mouthfeel more than mash temp.  I have brewed dry and crisp beers with more than a half pound of Special B in it, by using a lower mash temp.  Head retention has more to do with freshness, protein content of the base malt and how you mash it more than cara-pils helps it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe people will disagree, but if you are mashing then look there to control mouthfeel and to a lesser extent head retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T01:10:45.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5170" CreationDate="2011-11-23T03:01:43.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I have heard from several credible sources the general rule is unopened 4 days, and after opening you should consume in about four hours. reasons being the oxygen permeability of the cap is moderate, after opened you introduced oxygen as you pour which will of coarse oxidize the beer. that being said this should be taken lightly if you don't quite have the upper crust BJCP sniffer and taste buds. On another note I left a half full growler out in garage temp for a year and when opened it had quite a bit of pressure (just a guess 15-20 psi) I was shocked!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T03:01:43.733" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-11-23T03:01:43.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5347" CreationDate="2011-11-23T03:09:58.550" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem with multiple styles of beer when i didn't quite have a handle on carbonation (over carb)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;something to think about!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T03:09:58.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5560" CreationDate="2011-11-23T17:54:51.043" Score="7" ViewCount="4152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several glass carboys which I would like to permanently mark with gradations to measure liters and gallons.  I've tried using permanent marker as well as heavy-duty tape, but inevitably both come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas for what I can do to permanently mark the glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T05:11:35.683" Title="How can I permanently mark my carboys?" Tags="|carboy|measurements|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3297" CreationDate="2011-11-23T17:59:06.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the best method I've found after trying a few different approaches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool the bottle to 38-40 degrees (this prevents the beer from foaming much)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prepare your replacement caps and have them at the ready, as well as your capper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handle the bottle gently&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the bottle on a counter or other sturdy surface and very gently pry off the cap.  Minimize any movement of the bottle and remove the cap slowly so as to not rapidly depressurize the bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quickly swap the old cap for the new one, and immediately seal with the capper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T17:59:06.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2011-11-23T19:11:35.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm impressed that permanent marker is being removed. I'm going to dip into art supply territory and suggest either screenprinting and/or pastel board adhesive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screenprinting ink is available at any craft store, but you'll need to make a stencil or freehand the numbers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pastel board adhesive is usually sold as an aerosol can -- it's used for coating pastel boards to keep the pastels in place (usually for chalk pastels). This should be usable on the outside of your carboy to protect any particular ink marking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1427" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T19:11:35.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2011-11-23T19:15:27.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had decent luck with black electrical tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T19:15:27.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2011-11-23T19:30:20.827" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Craft stores sell creams for glass etching.  That will give you permanent markings.  Maybe not a lot of contrast but should still be visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1876" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T19:30:20.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2011-11-24T00:20:33.223" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The product you are looking for is called Armour Etch. Everything you need to know can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.capandhare.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726&quot;&gt;http://www.capandhare.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dead simple and produces very nice results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2011-11-25T16:51:55.030" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T16:51:55.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5565" CreationDate="2011-11-24T13:13:18.663" Score="5" ViewCount="964" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently brew beer in my kitchen, but the mess, smells and dirty looks from my wife have taken some of the joy out of my brew day. I started looking into an electric brewing solution that would allow me to move to my garden shed and I need a little advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm more than happy to drill holes in pots etc. but messing around with mains electricity is a little out of my comfort zone, so I'm looking for a solution that is pretty much ready to go. There are a myriad of options for electric brewing in the US, but these packages are useless for Ireland because of voltage issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I would like to have an element or series of elements, that can be controlled (e.g. Turned up and down ) and can be plugged into mains electricity (220 volt) and can bring about 20 litres of water to a boil in a reasonable time. This could be a stand alone solution (Burco boiler) or added to my existing stainless steel brew pot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience of a set up like this for the UK or Ireland?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1795" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T13:27:08.793" Title="Electric brewing in UK or Ireland" Tags="|boil-kettle|electric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5564" CreationDate="2011-11-24T15:44:33.000" Score="14" ViewCount="8647" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, this is sort of cheating but I really liked &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5522/how-many-degrees-will-my-carboy-heat-up-as-a-result-of-fermentation-activity&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question so I thought I'd ask the question again in a slightly different way and try and answer it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if we can actually estimate the expected temperature rise in the primary due to fermentation. This could be useful, for example, when trying hit your target fermentation temperature which has been identified elsewhere as one of the key variables in making good beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;edit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd quite like to get some data for this plot just for fun. If any of you measure the OG, ambient temperature and say, the mean fermentation temperature &lt;em&gt;for top fermenting beers&lt;/em&gt; please post it here and I'll add it to the plot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;edit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Datapoint! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ambient temp: 17.7 C, wort temp 19.8C, OG 1.042&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T08:43:37.823" Title="Can we estimate the temperature rise in the primary due to fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|calculations|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5563" CreationDate="2011-11-24T15:52:32.403" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to be able to calculate fermentation temperature, an exothermic process, we need to know how much heat (H) is &quot;evolved&quot; as yeasts convert sugars to alcohol. Digging around in the literature I found this article (1).&#xA;Although its focus is bioethanol production, it does give some figures in terms &#xA;of joules per mole which we can use to do the calculation. Since it deals with our friend Saccharomyces cerevisiae converting glucose to ethanol at 20 degrees &#xA;C the figures should be reasonable (i.e. the biochemical process is the same as in beermaking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear with me in the following, but if you are not interested in the calculation just look at the plot which predicts expected temperature rise above ambient as a function of specific gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6GAlI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQHAn.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, I assume throughout an initial fermentation temperature of 20C (68F) in a 21 litre (5 gal) container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, the amount of heat emitted via fermentation, as a fixed quantity of sugar is converted to ethanol by yeast,  is a function of the specific gravity (SG). Interestingly, yeast efficiency seems to decrease with increasing SG due to (from (1)):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;However, as the sugar concentration increases, the osmotic pressure exerted on a yeast cell is increased as well. Since more sugar is present, more ethanol will be produced. The ethanol imposes a strong inhibitory effect on the yeast growth and results in slow growth and incomplete fermentation.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess we sort of knew this already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The authors in (1) give H values (in kJ/mol) for 1 and 30 degrees plato which correspond to SGs of ~1.004 and ~1.13. I have interpolated  to get H as a function of SG which perhaps we as homebrewers are more used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, we calculate the mass of the wort, which is effectively a sugar solution (of a known SG)  with volume 21 litres (5 gallons). Here I assume a glucose solution for now (since I don't have H data for pure maltose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since SG tells us the density of the liquid, we can get the total mass of wort  via:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mass of wort (kg)=SG*volume of wort (litres)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, for SG=1.040, mass of wort = 1.040*21 = 21.84 kg (NB: litre of water ~1 kg at typical temperatures)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, we need to determine the specific heat capacity of this wort, which gives the amount of energy required to raise it by 1 degree (C or K).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the equation here (2) removing the negligible temperature terms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;specific heat (J/K) = 1-(0.632*(degrees plato / 100))*4.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, specific heat is a function of SG. This makes sense since, as you add more sugar to liquid, the density of the liquid will change affecting the heat capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above example, for SG=1.040 (which is ~9.96 degrees plato):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;specific heat = 3.94 J/g/K&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To raise a our wort by 1 degree C (or K) therefore requires&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.94 * 21.84x10^3 g = 86050 Joules of energy (86 kJ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the paper (1) gives H in units of kJ/mol, so we need to get the molar mass of glucose (C6H12O6) which is 180.16 g/mol (3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of moles of glucose in our wort is then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;((degrees plato/100)*mass of wort)/molar mass of glucose = 12.08 moles in our example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, finally with all that we can now calculate the expected temperature rise as a function of SG and H:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature rise due to fermentation (degrees C) = (no.of moles of sugar * H / (mass of wort * specific heat of wort)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, anyway in the plot I show how the  temperature of fermentation is expected to vary with specific gravity. It predicts that at lower SG, the temperature change due to fermentation should be low but positive, and steadily increase approximately linearly with SG. At the highest SG (not shown in the plot) the temperature actually begins to drop again as fermentation is inhibited by (I assume) high osmotic pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveats in the above are that I assumed glucose rather than a glucose-maltose mix and also this will be a total heat evolution so it doesn't take  into account the fermentation rate (but we do note that the ambient temp. if &lt;em&gt;fixed&lt;/em&gt; at 20 C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if we are brewing a fairly heavy 1.06 beer, we predict that fermentation will lead to an increase in wort temperature of ~4C/7F above ambient. In this case, we might want to reduce the ambient temperature by 4C/7F to hit our target temp in the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any comments? Does anyone have any data to put on this plot ? Is it anywhere near reality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Theerarattananoon, Yen-Han Lin &amp;amp; Ding-Yu Peng, 2008, Process Biochemistry, &quot;Metabolic heat evolution of Saccharomyces cerevisiae grown under very-high-gravity conditions&quot;, 43, 1253&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) &quot;Sugar, a users guide to sucrose&quot;, 1990, Neil L. Pennington, Charles W. Baker, Springer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glucose&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glucose&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-11-26T15:43:01.603" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T15:43:01.603" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5562" CreationDate="2011-11-24T16:09:22.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy off the shelf equipment that can do all of this. I have two plastic boilers that I got from the local homebrew shop, both have thermistors on the back to control the boil. A friend has got a fancier non-plastic electric boiler/mash tun, which he got from the same place. Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewCat&amp;amp;catId=16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Malt Miller's&lt;/a&gt; equipment page, there is everything on there that you need, bar the element. Although I have the feeling that &#xA;something like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/electrim-5-gallon-boiler.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ELECTRIM 5 Gallon BOILER&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hop &amp;amp; Grape&lt;/a&gt; is what you are after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="17470" LastEditDate="2019-09-23T13:27:08.793" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T13:27:08.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5533" CreationDate="2011-11-24T16:17:27.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;65 F ambient is fine. I wouldn't worry about it. As long as you pitched your yeast into wort below about 85 F (much higher might kill or seriously weaken it) I think your beer will be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-11-24T16:17:27.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-25T03:17:02.243" Score="2" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for good homebrew ingredient and equipment retailers in Australia and would like some recommendations. If you have recommendations for online retailers that have the follow qualities they would be greatly appreciated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are based in Australia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a good, easy to navigate website&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a good range of equipment and ingredients&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have good prices&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can ship quickly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2023-03-20T12:44:34.513" LastActivityDate="2023-03-20T12:44:34.513" Title="What are the best online homebrew retailers in Australia?" Tags="|equipment|ingredients|shopping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5522" CreationDate="2011-11-25T08:56:35.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Pasha I have tried to estimate this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5563/can-we-estimate-the-temperature-rise-in-the-primary-due-to-fermentation/5564#5564&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Look up your original specific gravity on the plot and read across to get a (rough) estimate of the expected temperature rise. For example, for a specific gravity of 1.045 we would estimate a rise in temperature (above ambient) of ~5F / ~3C. In this case, you would want to cool your wort to a temperature this many degrees below your target temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T08:56:35.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5512" CreationDate="2011-11-25T14:59:57.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take it that the balloon is meant to show you when fermentation  has stopped since it will no longer expand?  Although, you really have to have a good seal on it, and still take into account that a balloon is not an impermeable membrane.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=fermentation%20airlock&amp;amp;num=100&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;newwindow=1&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;gbv=2&amp;amp;prmd=imvnse&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=gqvPTvi2KOPr0gHu9In_Dw&amp;amp;ved=0CF8QrQQ&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=951&quot;&gt;A simple fermentation airlock should also be able to give you the same information&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for recipes that use concord grapes for making wine, I have never used that grape (although it is the most commonly planted historically in North America).  However, the all knowing google has a few suggestions.  Sadly, very few of them start off with just the juice, and instead goes for the grapes themselves.  I'm sure that there is a simple conversion though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winemakersdepot.com/Concord-Grape-Wine-Recipe-W79.aspx&quot;&gt;From this place&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Concord Grape Wine Making Recipes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Concord grape still remains the most popular grape sold in the United States with the majority of the vineyards in Washington and New York. The varietal has been used with great frequency in producing sweet Kosher wines such as Manischewitz and Mogen David. However, Concord grapes can also be used by the home winemaker to produce more complex vintages. Here are two recipes that are vastly different in style, yet both utilize Concord grapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Homemade Dry Concord Grape Wine Recipe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 gallon water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;10 lbs Concord grapes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 1/2 cups sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 teaspoon yeast nutrient&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 package wine yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bring water and sugar to boil in a large pot. Separate grapes from stems and place in primary fermentation container. Crush grapes and pour water into container. Let cool until room temperature. Stir in yeast nutrient and yeast. Cover and let sit for 1 day. Ferment for 3 weeks stirring once a day. Strain through mesh bag into secondary fermentation container. Let rest for 1 month. Rack and let sit for 2 months. Rack into bottles and let rest for at least 9 months before serving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Homemade Sweet Concord Grape Wine Recipe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 gallon water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4 cups sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6 cups Concord grapes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 Campden tablet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 teaspoon yeast nutrient&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2 teaspoons lemon juice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 package wine yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bring water and sugar to a boil. Crush grapes in primary fermentation container. Add water, crushed Campden tablet, yeast nutrient, and lemon juice. Let cool to room temperature. Add yeast, stir, and cover. Let rest for 1 week. Strain into secondary fermentation container and airlock. Rack every month for 8 months. Place in bottles. Wine will be ready in 1 year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easy-wine.net/homemade-concord-grape-wine.htm&quot;&gt;Another website seems to copy the preceding recipes&lt;/a&gt;, so that may speak to the success folks have had with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/reques10.asp&quot;&gt;This site offers a few that are a bit different&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Concord Grape Wine (1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6 lbs fresh Concord grapes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5 pts water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3-1/4 cups granulated sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1/2 tsp pectic enzyme&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 crushed Campden tablet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 tsp yeast nutrient&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;wine yeast &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wash and de-stem grapes, discarding any less than perfect ones. Put in nylon mesh bag, tie securely, and vigorously crush grapes over primary, being sure to crush them all. Place bag of pulp in primary and add water, sugar, nutrient, and crushed Campden tablet. Stir well to dissolve sugar, cover securely with clean cloth and set aside. After 12 hours add pectic enzyme and recover. After additional 12 hours check specific gravity. If not at least 1.095, add sugar and stir until dissolved, then add yeast. Stir daily, squeeze the nylon bag to aid in juice extraction, and check the S.G. When S.G. reaches 1.030 (5-6 days), lightly but steadily press juice from bag. [Set bag aside in bowl to make a second wine (see third recipe below).] Siphon liquor off sediments into sterilized glass secondary and attach airlock. Check S.G. after 30 days. If 1.000 or lower, rack into clean secondary and reattach airlock. Rack again after 2 months and again after additional 2 months. Allow to clear, stabilize, sweeten if desired (1/2 to 3/4 cup sugar syrup per gallon), and rack again into sterilized bottles. Allow to age two years in bottle before tasting. Improves further with additional aging. [Adapted from Raymond Massaccesi's Winemaker's Recipe Handbook]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Concord Grape Wine (2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;12 lbs fresh Concord grapes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2 pts water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1-1/2 cups granulated sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 tsp pectic enzyme&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 crushed Campden tablet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 tsp yeast nutrient&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;wine yeast &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wash and de-stem grapes, discarding any less than perfect ones. Divide grapes into two nylon mesh bags, tie securely, and vigorously crush grapes over primary, being sure to crush them all. Place bags of pulp in primary and add sugar already dissolved in water, nutrient, and crushed Campden tablet. Cover securely with clean cloth and set aside. After 12 hours add pectic enzyme and recover. After additional 12 hours check specific gravity. If not at least 1.095, add sugar and stir until dissolved, then add yeast. Stir daily, squeezing the nylon bags to aid in juice extraction, and check the S.G. When S.G. reaches 1.030 (5-6 days), lightly but steadily press juice from bags. [Set bags aside in bowl to make a second wine (see third recipe below).] Siphon liquor off sediments into sterilized glass secondary and attach airlock. Check S.G. after 30 days. If 1.000 or lower, rack into clean secondary and reattach airlock. Rack again after 2 months and again after additional 2 months. Allow to clear, stabilize, sweeten (1-1/4 cup sugar syrup per gallon), and rack again into sterilized bottles. Allow to age two years in bottle before tasting. Improves further with additional aging. [Adapted from Raymond Massaccesi's Winemaker's Recipe Handbook]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Concord Grape Wine (Second Fermentation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;pulp from 6-10 lbs Concord grapes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 gallon (minus one cup) water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;8-10 oz red grape concentrate or Concord grape juice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2 lb granulated sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2 tsp acid blend or juice from 1 lemon and 2 thin slices of winesap apple&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1/8 tsp tannin or 1 used teabag&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1/2 tsp yeast nutrient&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;wine yeast &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Begin this wine as soon as practical after pulp is removed from previous use, as you will be using the yeast already present in the pulp (do not allow pulp to dry out). Mix all ingredients except pulp in primary, stir well to dissolve sugar, then add pulp still in nylon bag. S.G. may be lower than expected because of alcohol still trapped in pulp. Cover and ferment, stirring and squeezing bag daily, until S.G. drops to 1.010. Siphon liquor into secondary. Squeeze bag well to extract all juice possible. Add juice to secondary and fit airlock. Rack after 30 days, then every 2 months until wine is clear and no more yeast deposits form after 10 days. Stabilize, sweeten if desired, and siphon into bottles. Taste after two years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully all that helps and was what you were looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1272" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T14:59:57.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5567" CreationDate="2011-11-25T15:06:33.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question may be a bit too localized.  Hopefully an actual Aussie will reply instead of a Yank that's only been there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nicest looking website I found was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.countrybrewer.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Country Brewer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to discuss brewing with your fellow Aussies, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;then there is this forum&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://daveshomebrew.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site called Dave's Homebrew that carries supplies&lt;/a&gt;, however the site seems a bit amateurish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewcraftsa.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;If you are in South Australia, this site seems pretty good&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I hope this helps a bit.  As I said, it may behoove you visit that forum in the second link to speak with fellow Aussies instead of a worldwide web page that may not have the local insight you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1272" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T15:06:33.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5572" CreationDate="2011-11-25T16:53:16.707" Score="4" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Russian Imperial Stout that I want to age for a full year.  I currently have it in kegs, uncarbonated.  I like to bottle from kegs that have been force carbonated due to the lack of sediment in the final product.  Can I force-carbonate it now, then bottle, and still expect it to get better with age?  What if I'm force carbonating in the refrigerator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T16:33:11.290" Title="Aging a beer bottled from the keg" Tags="|beer|process|aging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5571" CreationDate="2011-11-25T17:12:03.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can do what you propose.  A better solution, though, would be to add a bit of yeast to the keg and then bottle, rather than force carbonating.  The tiny bit of bottle fermentation will help scavenge the oxygen from the bottle and promote better aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2015-02-12T16:33:11.290" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T16:33:11.290" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5573" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-25T17:13:53.337" Score="2" ViewCount="5836" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time brewing and my son didn't do anything to help matters. I was mixing my wort and was putting in the sugar. My recipe called for 1kg which is roughly 2.2 pounds, well lets just say he scared me and I added a little over 3 pounds. I have a very violent fermentation. Is the batch ruined and should I start all over again. I plan on using 22oz. bottles and was wondering home much priming sugar should I use. I'm thinking around a 1tsp. for each bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1881" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2011-11-28T02:21:55.563" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T02:21:55.563" Title="Help! I added too much sugar for batch's recipe." Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5573" CreationDate="2011-11-25T18:30:50.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extra sugar will make the beer a bit stronger, but not a lot.  I generally add priming sugar to the entire batch, rather than per bottle.  It's less work.  I boil the sugar in about a cup of water, then add it to the beer to be bottled after racking the beer to another container.  I use an average of 1 oz. of sugar for each gal. of beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T18:30:50.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3587" CreationDate="2011-11-25T21:43:40.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carson- how did it taste in the end?&#xA;I've tried a couple of times to use orange peel, camomile and coriander seed and got really horrible flavours that I didn't like. The second time I tried I halved the quantities and still got similar results no joy so I won't do it again unless I find out that there's a particular kind of orange or something that I got wrong. I've had more luck with honey though and would try the special flower honeys in future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of ageing I found a 9% Alc beer was significantly better at 12 months than 2 or 3 months. I've even kept back half of a second batch in secondary for over a year and still yet to bottle it. It really adds subtlety to flavours and smoothness to the finish to mature it for that time. But you need an awful lotta patience!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1882" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T21:43:40.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4280" CreationDate="2011-11-25T21:58:20.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreed, you have to 'see past' the lack of carbonation, and I have found that the lighter, lower ABV beers that have had a yeast that settles really well do taste OK at bottling at as little as 7 days and are a good indication of the final outcome at say a few weeks or a month in a bottle. I've brewed some with Nottingham yeast that already seem ready to drink!&#xA;Conversely the higher alcohol, stronger flavoured, less floculent yeasts can taste awful at bottling, but don't give up on them! After a month they may still be poor but try again at 3 months and you may be delighted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1882" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T21:58:20.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-25T22:02:27.120" Score="3" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once upon a time I did a little science at Uni. I'd now be really curious to understand a bit more behind the amazing difference between a freshly brewed beer and one that's matured on yeast for some time. Anyone found any interesting articles, links or know a bit themselves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1882" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T18:56:01.017" Title="Does anyone know what is the science behind maturing?" Tags="|maturation|science|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5567" CreationDate="2011-11-26T09:00:25.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regardless of where you are, check out your local (or at least closest) home brew stores and ask them if they have a website.  It turns out that even my little old local has one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in Western Australia so my advice is certainly biased.  Here's a few places I've used or at least heard good things about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebru.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TWOC&lt;/a&gt; - My local, has absolutely everything &amp;amp; great advice if you need it (the guy is an Oracle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.westbrew.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BrewCraft&lt;/a&gt; - A WA chain store, mainly still supplies &amp;amp; extract kit packs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ellersliehop.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ellerslie Hop&lt;/a&gt; - An Australian hop farm (order by email, minimum 500g)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegsonline.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KegsOnline&lt;/a&gt; - Aussie keg equipment supplier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://minikeg.net.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Minikeg&lt;/a&gt; - Aussie mini-keg (5L) retailer, the kegs are imported but delivery is still quick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewcellar.com.au/stores.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brew Celler&lt;/a&gt; - Not used these guys but this link has a whole bunch of stores around AU including websites, you may be able to find somewhere local to you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sedexbrewing.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SedEx&lt;/a&gt; - These cool sediment filters for bottled beer are an Aussie invention too I believe (NT?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dogbeer.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dog Beer&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T09:54:36.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5573" CreationDate="2011-11-26T14:10:24.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of sugar will give you cider-y flavors and make the beer taste alcohol-hot, but an extra pound in a 5-gallon batch won't ruin your beer by a long shot.  At the very worst you've made yourself a learning experience!  I've found some of my mistakes made the best beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for priming sugar, I agree with the others: boil some water with your priming sugar, let it cool a bit.  Put that in the bottom of your bottling bucket, then rack (siphon) your beer from your fermenter (bucket/carboy) on top of the sugar.  Stir gently with a sanitized spoon and bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much do you need?  There are online calculators you can use to figure it out.  Here's one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2011-11-26T15:37:30.750" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T15:37:30.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5571" CreationDate="2011-11-26T16:53:56.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting ready to do the same thing with a very similar beer (for the first time) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to bottle condition, I sit the carboy up were I will rack it from a day or two before so the sediment has time to settle out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to force carb then bottle I would purge fill then purge that little head space at the top. co2 is heavier then atmosphere so you could even hold the beer gun over (instead of in) the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T16:53:56.423" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-11-26T16:53:56.423" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5577" CreationDate="2011-11-27T11:56:37.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an interesting question, and a similar one was asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4693/what-happens-in-the-bottle&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. However, it was not answered definitively ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T18:56:01.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4094" CreationDate="2011-11-27T17:56:13.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love brewing with heather. I first got the idea from a local brewery - Olde Burneside Brewery, in Hartford, CT. They make a Penney-weiz ale that is very good. I started out with 2 oz dried heather added near the beginning of the boil for a 5 gal batch of honey weizen. I thought I took good notes, but I haven't been able to replicate anything near the flavor intensity of that 1st batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just started fermenting a batch of an Amber braggot with heather and juniper berries. I'll you know!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T17:56:13.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5588" CreationDate="2011-11-27T18:14:07.463" Score="4" ViewCount="5028" Body="&lt;p&gt;How could I pull out a little from my carboy to take gravity readings during fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to use a auto-siphon but it was a mess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T14:54:06.647" Title="checking gravity during and after fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|specific-gravity|carboy|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5584" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-27T18:50:55.673" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-27T18:50:55.673" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T18:50:55.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5585" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-27T18:50:55.673" Score="0" Body="A jug like container characterized by a narrow opening at its top.  Often made from glass however plastic is becoming more popular.  Used for primary and/or secondary fermentation and storage of beer, wine and/or meads." OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2011-11-28T02:21:38.683" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T02:21:38.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5586" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-27T18:53:01.427" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-27T18:53:01.427" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T18:53:01.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5587" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-27T18:53:01.427" Score="0" Body="Any sort of numerical manipulations used in calculating brew-related quantities such as bitterness, original gravity etc." OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-11-28T02:19:34.923" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T02:19:34.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5583" CreationDate="2011-11-27T19:56:22.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a wine or beer thief and a test jar to grab a sample from your carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the following one and it works great: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00186ADYS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Fermtech-Wine-Beer-Thief/dp/B00186ADYS&lt;/a&gt;  This one is nice because the hydrometer fits right inside it so you don't need a test jar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never put the sample back in, just scared of contamination.  Does anybody put it back in or just drink or dump it?  Usually its a good time for me to take a taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T19:56:22.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5591" CreationDate="2011-11-27T20:21:47.703" Score="2" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm living in the Netherlands and it seems that Starsan isn't available here.  I'm wondering if anyone knows if Chemipro Acid is the same thing?  Or just what's in it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, see here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brouwland.com/shop/product.asp?cfid=4&amp;amp;id=1821&amp;amp;cat=530&amp;amp;dt=24&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brouwland.com/shop/product.asp?cfid=4&amp;amp;id=1821&amp;amp;cat=530&amp;amp;dt=24&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brouwland.com/content/assets/home/reinigenENG.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brouwland.com/content/assets/home/reinigenENG.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't seem to say, so just wondering if anyone can shed any light on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1886" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T01:17:34.237" Title="Does anybody know about Chemipro Acid?" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|starsan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5583" CreationDate="2011-11-27T21:09:04.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a sanitized turkey baster dedicated to beer samples.  Easy and cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T21:09:04.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5589" CreationDate="2011-11-28T01:17:34.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak with any authority, but it appears to be &lt;em&gt;similar&lt;/em&gt; but not identical.  The color of the product appears more amber/brown, and the disclaimer that it needs to be drained well doesn't seem to be quite the same as StarSan's motto of &quot;don't fear the foam&quot;.  However, they are both acid-based sanitizers and likely work in a similar method.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's available to you then it's worth trying, but I would not consider it an equivalent to StarSan(by which I mean it may not be better or wose, just different)--be careful to read the directions and labels and to use it as it's manufacturer describes; don't try to follow StarSan's directions unless you're using StarSan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be concerned that this isn't a brand-name sanitizer; it's likely that it will work as well as StarSan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T01:17:34.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4094" CreationDate="2011-11-28T10:10:09.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamsbrosbrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Williams Brothers&lt;/a&gt;, from Scotland, brew a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamsbrosbrew.com/historicales.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;range of traditional ales&lt;/a&gt;, one of which, Fraoch, is a heather ale and has been around for over twenty years. If you are interested in the history of heather ale, then &lt;a href=&quot;http://zythophile.wordpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Martyn Cornell's&lt;/a&gt; book &lt;a href=&quot;http://astore.amazon.co.uk/zythophile-21/detail/0752455672&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amber, Gold &amp;amp; Black&lt;/a&gt; has a whole chapter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T10:10:09.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-28T13:41:32.023" Score="5" ViewCount="894" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a temperature monitor/device which I can attach to the fermentation vessel that will post temperature data back to a PC via Ethernet or wireless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1833" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T10:19:00.777" Title="How to monitor FV Temperature online" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5593" CreationDate="2011-11-28T13:56:43.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any, but if you like playing with electronics and programming, you could use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9950&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arduino&lt;/a&gt; with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9026&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ethernet Shield&lt;/a&gt;, and an Off-the-shelf temperature sensor.   Doing that, you'd also need to set up a server process on your computer to listen for reports from your device, but there are tutorials for doing that sort of thing for just about every computer language out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T13:56:43.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5593" CreationDate="2011-11-28T14:47:39.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read in Wireless something about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.igrillinc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iGrill&lt;/a&gt;. This is a bluetooth thermometer (designed for cooking) which hooks up to your iPhone/Pad. I couldn't see the point of it myself but it might be interesting to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T14:47:39.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5583" CreationDate="2011-11-28T14:54:06.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option is to one end of a sanitized food-grade plastic tube into your carboy and siphon out a bit into your testing tube for the hydrometer. This will work for the narrowest of carboy necks. However, there is some risk of contamination (especially if you suck the end of the tube and that then falls back into the carboy) . A wine-thief or turkey baster are probably safer bets if you can use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea: if your wort is deep enough, your carboy has enough head space and you have big, readable letters on your hydrometer, why not just drop the (sanitized) hydrometer into the carboy and leave it there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T14:54:06.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5673" CreationDate="2011-11-28T15:29:59.580" Score="5" ViewCount="3730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a Schneider Aventus clone and the end result was a flat beer. I missed a step in the instructions to add a fresh dose of yeast a few days before bottling so I'm assuming that this is the result of sluggish yeast. I still have a gallon in secondary that I was aging on oak chips so I ordered a more yeast to add to that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is can I pop the caps of the flat beers and add a small amount of yeast to each one and recap them? Is this a viable route to take or are the flat beers destined for the drain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; If I remember correctly I primed with 1/4 cup DME for a one gallon batch and 3/4 cup DME for a 3 gallon batch. I bottle conditioned/carbonated for a month in my basement which is a steady 68 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastEditorUserId="846" LastEditDate="2011-11-28T17:25:35.670" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T01:03:42.257" Title="Salvaging flat beer?" Tags="|yeast|bottling|carbonation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5597" CreationDate="2011-11-28T15:43:01.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might work, but you run the risk of infection and even more oxygen in the package.  If the alternative is dumping them, I'd say it's worth a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1841" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T15:43:01.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-28T19:08:12.960" Score="5" ViewCount="316" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally I ferment beer in my basement, which varies in temperature from 50-70 degrees, depending on the season. These temperature swings can be bad for fermentation, especially in winter. So when I brew ales, I use a heater + temperature controller to keep the beer at fermentation temperature for the 5-10 days it takes an ale to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soon I plan on making a lambic, which will stay in the carboy for several months, if not years. Do I need to keep the carboy at fermentation temp for the entire time the beer is in there? Or should I just keep it warm for the first week or two, then let the brett do its work at ambient temperature (which will be 50-60, as we're heading into winter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T19:24:18.610" Title="How long should I keep a lambic at fermentation temperature?" Tags="|temperature|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|lambics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5599" CreationDate="2011-11-28T19:24:18.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say let it go at ambient temp, different temps are helpful to different microbes and the barrels that lambics are aged in go through seasonal temperature swings as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T19:24:18.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5593" CreationDate="2011-11-28T23:44:05.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you aren't a programmer, then you can start building your system around a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.embeddedcontrolconcepts.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BCS460&lt;/a&gt;.  I am running one, and it works like a charm.  Mine controls my HLT, BK, Mash, and Fermentation temperatures.  A little costly though if you only plan to use it for fermentation temperature, you can access it via your home network while you are at home or away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="803" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T23:44:05.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5593" CreationDate="2011-11-29T10:19:00.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across this site yesterday using an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.elcojacobs.com/uberfridge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arduino&lt;/a&gt; like Baka suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a little involved, and it would require you to beef up your coding skills, but the step by step guide gives quite a bit of detail. Also, this is a fermentation controller that also tracks and graphs temperature, so it might be possible to scale back the development. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/programming/comments/mkgek/i_programmed_a_fermentation_temperature/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AMA&lt;/a&gt; on reddit with the designer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1795" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T10:19:00.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5603" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-29T13:52:43.157" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T13:52:43.157" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T13:52:43.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5604" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-29T13:52:43.157" Score="0" Body="Specific gravity in brewing is the ratio of the density of the wort to that of water. " OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T17:33:33.987" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T17:33:33.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5605" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-29T13:54:31.983" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T13:54:31.983" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T13:54:31.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5606" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-29T13:54:31.983" Score="0" Body="The temperature of the wort during fermentation. Often different from the ambient temperature since fermentation is an exothermic process (releasing heat)." OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T16:13:41.660" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T16:13:41.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5607" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-29T13:55:10.923" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T13:55:10.923" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T13:55:10.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5608" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-29T13:55:10.923" Score="0" Body="The specific gravity at the end of fermentation." OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T17:33:38.433" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T17:33:38.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5609" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-29T13:58:00.200" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T13:58:00.200" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T13:58:00.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5610" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-29T13:58:00.200" Score="0" Body="Wort produced from a combination of both malt extract (dry or liquid) and the mashing (steeping) of grains. " OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T20:24:19.457" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T20:24:19.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5611" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-29T14:00:45.967" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T14:00:45.967" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T14:00:45.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5612" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-29T14:00:45.967" Score="0" Body="Technique of adding unboiled hops to the fermentor to give hop aroma and possibly additional bitterness." OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T20:24:14.060" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T20:24:14.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-29T21:39:18.453" Score="5" ViewCount="1377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Dunkelweizen from a Northern Brewer all-grain kit that I brewed and pitched 2 weeks ago. I have one problem, I forgot to aerate before I pitched the yeast. I'm concerned that the yeast will not have enough oxygen to carbonate when I bottle it. I have more yeast I can pitch when I prime(Wyeast 3068), but will that be enough? Will aerating it now give it a bad taste? Any advice would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1893" LastActivityDate="2011-12-18T21:26:28.260" Title="Can I aerate again before bottling?" Tags="|bottling|aeration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5613" CreationDate="2011-11-29T22:06:35.467" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should only aerate before the yeast have had a chance to really get going, so that they can consume all of the oxygen that's in suspension.   It's really too late now, and will likely result in oxidized flavors.  The yeast should be fine for carbonating your beer with simply the priming sugar, though.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T22:06:35.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5613" CreationDate="2011-11-29T22:10:46.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The carbonation process occurs due to fermentation of the priming sugar.  Fermentation is an anaerobic process, therefore no additional O2 is needed for carbonation to happen.  You'll pick some up anyway through simply by racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excess O2 post fermentation will oxidize the beer and create stale flavors as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-12-13T00:24:45.140" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T00:24:45.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5597" CreationDate="2011-11-30T01:20:15.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't; you risk making bottle-bombs. I don't think there's anything you could really do here. If you had a kegging system, you could try dumping them all in there, forcing carbonation, and drinking relatively quickly. It's too much exposure to open air and unsanitized surfaces for my liking, but it'd be worth a try. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1894" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T01:20:15.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2011-11-30T04:25:24.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Odd, I marked both of my carbons with permanent marking and have used/cleaned both of them without the marker coming off yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure really why it would come off easily unless your cleaning the outside of the glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1895" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T04:25:24.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5619" CreationDate="2011-11-30T15:01:35.743" Score="2" ViewCount="1235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that this should be done before racking when &quot;primary fermentation&quot; is complete?  I suppose I have another question then too.  Is there any way to estimate what the FG should be based on initial gravity and style?  Or does it completely depend on hydrometer readings and time?  When I do a diacetyl rest how warm should I go?  Temp range is 64-74F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pitched a little high (78F) but got the temp down to about 65F before there was any activity at all.  My initial gravity reading was around 1.07.  The recipe is for a &quot;Wet Mountain IPA&quot; clone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first batch and the advice here has been very valuable, thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1822" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T18:36:29.443" Title="When should I do a Diacetyl rest (Wyeast 1187)?" Tags="|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5618" CreationDate="2011-11-30T15:54:40.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you actually have diacetyl?  Ringwood is a known diacetyl producer, so you should expect to, but nothing beats actually detecting it. :)  For an ale, you should be able to just leave the beer at fermentation temps, and the yeast will keep working to clean up any diacetyl they've produced.   If it were a lager, you'd want to raise up to ~68°F with a few gravity points remaining to let the yeast do their thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can estimate FG based on the listed apparent attenuation of the yeast, plus an understanding of the fermentability of the sugars in your wort; if you added a bunch of crystal malt, you'd expect the FG to be a bit higher, if you added table sugar/honey, a bit lower.  Yeast health and fermentation temperature will factor into attenuation, as well. As for what your FG will actually be, yes, go by gravity readings and time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2011-11-30T18:36:29.443" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T18:36:29.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5618" CreationDate="2011-11-30T16:27:41.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My interpretation of a &quot;diacetyl rest&quot; is to simply to leave your beer in the fermentor for a number of days (~2-3?) at 65F after you have achieved constant FG readings. This will allow remaining suspended yeast to remove residual diacetyl which is probably not what you want for your beer style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this won't harm your beer in any way, you mind as well do it for peace of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to what jsled has said regarding FG, you can also use free (or paid for if you wish) brewing software applications which can do the calculations for you. Examples include &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;beer calculus&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://freecode.com/projects/qbrew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;qbrew&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/784/what-software-do-most-brewers-use&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for an extensive list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T16:27:41.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5622" CreationDate="2011-11-30T16:39:07.993" Score="6" ViewCount="1736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a keezer and am not sure what to do with the CO2 bottle. Most folks seem to put it inside the freezer but this troubles my over beer'ed mind. Wouldn't the regulator give a different reading at lower temperatures? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems easy enough to punch a couple of holes through the back of the lid and have the bottle outside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T19:41:10.280" Title="CO2 Bottle inside or outside Keezer?" Tags="|kegging|kegerator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5621" CreationDate="2011-11-30T17:16:36.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The co2 high pressure gage does show a lower reading at lower temperatures but the actual amount of CO2 in the tank is not decreased.  When the tank is full the gas is actually in liquid form and the gage will remain at the same reading until all of the liquid turns to gas.  At this point the gage will drop into the red area that usually says &quot;order gas.&quot;  Thus the gage really only tells you if there is still CO2 in liquid form until it's almost gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="687" LastEditDate="2011-11-30T19:41:10.280" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T19:41:10.280" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5623" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-30T17:45:56.637" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-30T17:45:56.637" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T17:45:56.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5624" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-30T17:45:56.637" Score="0" Body="The technique of leaving beer in the fermentor after fermentation has finished in order for suspended yeast to remove diacetyl &quot;butterscotch flavors&quot;  from the brew." OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-12-01T02:40:21.303" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T02:40:21.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5625" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-30T20:20:06.820" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-30T20:20:06.820" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T20:20:06.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5626" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-30T20:20:06.820" Score="0" Body="A beer of Belgian origin which is traditionally fermented via exposure to wild strains of yeast." OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-12-01T02:40:25.377" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T02:40:25.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5577" CreationDate="2011-11-30T22:59:21.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Amateur and scientific interest in beermaking is increasing, but it is a much younger subject than that of winemaking. I would direct you to research done on wine maturation for an answer to your question. Keep in mind though, that strong scientific research will likely be limited. Any huge breakthroughs discovered by a company's internal lab would probably be kept as a trade secret.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some basic internet starting points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wikipedia's &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winemaking#Secondary_.28Malolactic.29_fermentation_and_bulk_aging&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;winemaking&lt;/a&gt; article -- this discusses secondary wine fermentation at a pseudo-scientific level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wikipedia's article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aging_of_wine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wine ageing&lt;/a&gt; -- this article has a lot of information in it at a lot of different levels; check out the external links as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for stronger research, there are a few references in those articles, as well as external links; such resources may point you to others. Additionally, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=wine%20maturation&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;btnG=Search&amp;amp;as_sdt=1,29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google Scholar search&lt;/a&gt; for wine maturation shows some good initial results. A &lt;a href=&quot;http://scholar.google.com/scholar?hl=en&amp;amp;q=beer%20maturation&amp;amp;btnG=Search&amp;amp;as_sdt=1,29&amp;amp;as_ylo=&amp;amp;as_vis=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;similar search&lt;/a&gt; for beer maturation looks &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; scientific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1427" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T22:59:21.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5631" CreationDate="2011-12-01T02:54:34.750" Score="4" ViewCount="1065" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the last 2 batches of beer I've used a swamp cooler to cool off the plastic bucket fermenter. The cooling worked well, but on both batches, there was a bit of mold growing on the outside and/or under the rim of the bucket where the wet towel was. I added some sanitizer to the water in the last batch, but it didn't seem to help. Adding bleach to the water seems like a bad idea. Would there be any chance of bleach or another mold-killer ruining my bucket and/or beer from the outside? Is there something safe I can add to the water to keep the mold and other nasties at bay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1756" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T13:18:00.257" Title="What should I put in my swamp cooler water to retard growth of nasty things?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1665" CreationDate="2011-12-01T07:50:03.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Porters are also more dark, maybe the darkest beers in the style. Also Porters should have more chocolate and roasted flavors then English Brown Ales - they have more caramel and toffee flavors then porters and also they have often medium to medium low body. Porters are more full bodied I think. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also different styles of porters - Robust, Baltic, Brown, Imperial, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T07:50:03.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5637" CreationDate="2011-12-01T08:11:07.293" Score="1" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to brew bigger batches, however heating up more beer requires more energy. I would like to use gas or propan-butan. &#xA;I have found something like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/200-000-btu-natural-gas-burner-14742/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/200-000-btu-natural-gas-burner-14742/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any other ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T06:08:14.743" Title="Which cooker do you suggest for heating 150l (40 gallons) batch?" Tags="|large-batch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2011-12-01T13:58:36.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used bleach before without any problems. I can't imagine it seeping through the bucket into the beer, unless you use 100% bleach instead of water...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of bleach required to sanitize water is something ridiculously low, so if its freaking you out, then just make sure you only use a little at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;Most emergency experts and health officials suggest a mixture of 8 drops of bleach to a gallon of generally clear water for best results.&lt;/em&gt;&quot; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.csgnetwork.com/h2oemergencypurifycalc.html&quot;&gt;http://www.csgnetwork.com/h2oemergencypurifycalc.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest adding a few ounces of bleach every 2-3 days, rather than throwing in a quart the 1st day and leaving it, as it doesn't take much bleach to purify the water, but bleach does evaporate out of the water within a day or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T13:58:36.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2011-12-01T16:50:14.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bleach is a good choice.  But how long are you leaving the fermenter in the bucket?  Usually after the first few days temp control is much less critical.  I remove my fermenter from the bucket of water after a week and don't see any mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T16:50:14.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2011-12-01T17:08:17.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I would try using several towels and replace and wash them every couple of days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T17:08:17.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-01T19:54:02.527" Score="2" ViewCount="541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed my 5th batch, but for the first time didn't use a kit, but an online recipe. So now, I have no idea of how long to keep it in the fermenter before bottling. From what I understand, a higher OG beer needs more time to age, but how much more? Is there some simple rule of thumb, or formula? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it matters, I made a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/issue/article/issues/241-december-2006/1486-tasting-double&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Great Divide Yeti Imperial Stout Clone&lt;/a&gt;. I made it with extract, and missed the OG by a lot. The reading was 1.072 instead of the expected 1.090. I made another beer which had the same OG, and did 1 month primary, 2 months secondary and 3 weeks in bottles. That worked quite well, so I am inclined to stick to the same timeline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1869" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T20:01:23.853" Title="Is there a simple rule of thumb for OG and fermentation time?" Tags="|beer|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5634" CreationDate="2011-12-01T20:01:23.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There really aren't any rules that can be applied - too many factors come into the time it takes for fermentation to complete:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash temp (fermentable vs. unfermentable sugars)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ambient temp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amount of yeast pitched&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Age/health of yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phase of the moon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok the last one's tongue-in-cheek, but you get the idea.  The best way to tell if your ferment is done is with your hydrometer.  When you're close to your expected final gravity and the readings are steady for a few in a row, bottle away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not to say leaving it a month in the primary is a bad thing.  I tend to leave my beers 2-4 weeks before even bothering to take a hydrometer reading.  The yeast has plenty of time to finish what they're doing and have a nice flocculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big beer tends to want to age longer &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; primary fermentation to mellow out the flavors; I notice especially strong alcohol heat mellows nicely with age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T20:01:23.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5640" CreationDate="2011-12-02T05:24:04.217" Score="3" ViewCount="3641" Body="&lt;p&gt;listening to an interview with John Palmer he suggests putting the fermentation vessel in the fridge (after fermentation is complete) to drop out some left over trub and yeast. I figured I would give it a shot, but when putting it in I wondered what would happen to the air-lock when the beer cools, it would surely start sucking in instead of blowing out. what other methods of keeping the atmosphere and other stuff out could I use, if I just put a stopper on top how would a vacuum effect the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T03:31:06.987" Title="after fermentation (carboy) if I put it in the fridge what do with the air-lock?" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|airlock|refrigerator|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5630" CreationDate="2011-12-02T06:08:14.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My batch size is typically 1/4 your size but in doing research for a burner I settled for a 60k burner over a 150k burner. Forget the myth about caramelizing the wort with a hotter burner, the best advice after weeks of research was from a young guy at my local sportsmen store. he suggested efficiency vs. productivity, and in using this logic I would suggest configuring two smaller burners to increase surface area effected by the heat source or find a larger &quot;commercial sized&quot; burner to increase surface heating. I wish I had more experience with batches of this size, but I hope my suggestions helped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T06:08:14.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2011-12-02T09:55:01.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What basically I do, is to buy those hops or buy a beer with those hops, make my own notes on what I smell and taste and then I surf the internet for facts, like for Warrior hops for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com/warrior-hops/577&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brew-dudes.com/warrior-hops/577&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then also read some reviews from Beeradvocate. Also I consult this with my friends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T09:55:01.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2823" CreationDate="2011-12-02T10:46:04.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I improve my taste and smell skills by &quot;blind&quot; tests. From time to time me with friends prepare a sessions where we put various ingredients into cups and smell them with eyes closed. Like piece of banana, cherry, vanilla etc. The flavors are not known before for you. This is a great way how to improve it. Then you can try it with beer too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T10:46:04.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5636" CreationDate="2011-12-02T13:22:15.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned this the hard way, and you are correct; the cooling beer will create a vacuum and suck the air lock fluid into the carboy.  What I do is put either a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/universal-carboy-bung-solid.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;solid bung&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/carboy-cap-3-5-and-6-gallon-carboys.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carboy cap&lt;/a&gt; on the carboy before crash cooling.  I kind of prefer the cap because the vacuum won't pull it into the neck of the carboy, whereas there's a chance that could happen with a solid stopper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crash cooling is a great idea to help clarify your beer if you're going to keg it or otherwise don't need the yeast for conditioning.  I do it with every beer.  I wait about four days after I'm sure fermentation is done, then I move the carboy to the beer fridge for three days before racking to the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T13:22:15.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5636" CreationDate="2011-12-02T14:04:52.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just fill your airlock with something that living microbes can't survive in, like vodka or sulfite solution and don't fill it up so high that any will be pulled into the carboy by negative pressure. And RDWHAHB about the scary oxygen that will be pulled in, it's negligible and also it will stay above the cushion of CO2 that already in the neck of the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T14:04:52.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-02T14:27:26.840" Score="7" ViewCount="6064" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first look into this site and a novice at brewing, at the moment I have only tinkered with replacing honey with sugars with the shop bought beer kits in the can, all the experiments have worked really well so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been wondering for a while now if I can add mashed bananas in a muslin bag to the fermenter for a 1 week in the fermenter brew?&#xA;if so do I need to adjust the sugars to suit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers&#xA;Paul&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1899" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T16:39:15.240" Title="Bananas in beer?" Tags="|banana|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5642" CreationDate="2011-12-02T14:54:23.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds yummy :)  I might boil the mashed 'nanners with some water to sterilize them first.  Raw fruit can harbor beer-spoiling bacteria.  If not boil, at least hold at pasteurizing temps for a time.  According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer-edu/beer-pasteurization-aid-123.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MicroMatic&lt;/a&gt;, for beer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The process involves running the package through a hot water spray&#xA;  (approximately 140 degrees F) for two to three minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would probably hold it at 150-160F for 10 minutes for my peace of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T14:54:23.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5636" CreationDate="2011-12-02T14:57:45.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an S-bubbler type airlock when crash cooling.  I fill it with vodka or grain alcohol (Everclear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The S-bubbler tends to let air in without sucking back much fluid.  Whatever does get sucked in is just neutral spirits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T14:57:45.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5636" CreationDate="2011-12-02T16:32:54.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since fermentation is done, you don't need an airlock at all.  I use a stopper to seal buckets, or some plastic wrap and a rubber band to seal carboys.  Don't over think this!  And even though the yeast will tend to drop out, there will still be plenty left for bottle conditioning.  I've had no trouble bottling beers that have been lagering for months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T16:32:54.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2011-12-02T20:22:38.973" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've got backyard chickens, they love the leftover mash, especially if it's still warm. I'm planning to take some of the mash from my last batch of beer, freeze it in 1-quart freezer bags, and then pull it out and microwave it to feed them on cold mornings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1901" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T20:22:38.973" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-06T13:50:02.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3613" CreationDate="2011-12-02T23:46:47.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;sorry I have been MIA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer turned out great - it had an extremely similar flavor profile to La Fin Du Monde, and since I used corriander and sweet orange peel, tasted similar to a La Fin Du Monde mixed with an Allagash white in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the smell given off when I was culturing must have just been a normal smell given off by the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1083" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T23:46:47.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5657" CreationDate="2011-12-03T10:43:20.647" Score="7" ViewCount="979" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to finish off my leftover ingredients and can just about make a pale ale with OG ~1.04 or so. I'd like to get it started tomorrow, but I probably won't be able to rack it until the first or second week in January. Will it be OK in the primary for 5-6 weeks or should I wait until after the New Year to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T00:54:58.860" Title="Will my session beer be OK for 5-6 weeks in primary?" Tags="|primary|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5649" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-03T13:57:25.273" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-12-03T13:57:25.273" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T13:57:25.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5650" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-03T13:57:25.273" Score="0" Body="A loose definition of a beer with a relatively low ABV, clean palate and high drinkability. " OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-12-03T16:58:18.920" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T16:58:18.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5651" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-03T14:04:20.497" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-12-03T14:04:20.497" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T14:04:20.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5652" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-03T14:04:20.497" Score="0" Body="The carbonation of beer by re-fermenting in the serving container, through addition of fermentable sugar and, if necessary, viable yeast. Protects beer quality by scavenging dissolved oxygen during re-fermentation." OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T16:14:00.820" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T16:14:00.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5653" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-03T14:08:31.597" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-12-03T14:08:31.597" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T14:08:31.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5654" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-03T14:08:31.597" Score="0" Body="Initial gravity of wort (prior to fermentation)." OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-12-03T16:58:11.683" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T16:58:11.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5655" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-03T14:11:01.193" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-12-03T14:11:01.193" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T14:11:01.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5656" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-03T14:11:01.193" Score="0" Body="The percentage of sugars present in the wort converted to alcohol by yeast. Typical attenuations are 60-80%." OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-12-03T16:57:51.107" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T16:57:51.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5648" CreationDate="2011-12-03T15:15:58.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be fine.  Not much more to say, but I have to enter a longer answer....;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T15:15:58.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5660" CreationDate="2011-12-04T05:30:29.567" Score="3" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a corny keg with a neck that doesnt seal what else can i do with it besides carb. and serve beer? above the seal it is all bent up and have tied to repair with no success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="1865" LastEditDate="2011-12-11T05:44:54.600" LastActivityDate="2011-12-11T05:44:54.600" Title="what can I do with an old corny keg?" Tags="|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-06T14:02:07.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5658" CreationDate="2011-12-04T14:15:06.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Small batch fermentor.&#xA;Sanitizer holder for long items like racking canes, spoons and tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T14:15:06.593" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-06T14:02:07.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5662" CreationDate="2011-12-04T15:50:33.663" Score="3" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm presently an extract, partial boil brewer.  I was thinking of steeping oat malt (from, for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fawcett-maltsters.co.uk/range.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thomas Fawcett&lt;/a&gt;).  Will this work?  I'm using a recipe &lt;a href=&quot;http://crampedspacebrew.blogspot.com/2010/12/blue-moon-clone.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, which calls for flaked oats.  But &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;oats must be mashed with barley malt to utilise them&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is steeping oat malt a waste of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1792" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T16:48:22.297" Title="How does oat malt work for steeping?" Tags="|extract|extract-plus-grains|oats|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5661" CreationDate="2011-12-04T16:48:22.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue will be if oat malt has enough diastatic power to convert itself.  If so, you can do a minimash (really just a steep with controlled water amount, temp, and time).  If not, you'll need to add some pale malt and do the same process.  But oat malt will not give you the same flavor results as flaked oats.  For the 4 oz. that's called for in the recipe, it may not make much difference which method you use, or even if you leave them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T16:48:22.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5667" CreationDate="2011-12-04T19:09:35.210" Score="8" ViewCount="784" Body="&lt;p&gt;My last batch was a strong ale/winter 1.090  wlp002 english ale yeast brewed on 11/20 (two weeks ago). it has been in the fridge crash cooling for about 72 hours. this will be my first attempt at fermenting on an old yeast cake. I'm assuming the yeast needs to be warmed up from fridge temp? I'm brewing today and could use a few pointers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="1865" LastEditDate="2011-12-11T05:49:26.953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-18T15:09:17.113" Title="How to ferment on the last batches yeast cake?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-04T21:03:50.523" Score="3" ViewCount="656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to brew a high gravity stout, OG 1088. Its been in the primary for two weeks.  I assumed it had completed fermentation since it feremented extremely vigorously, so much so I had to use a blowoff tube (for a bucket fermenter).  Once that calmed down I replaced with  bubbler and it went consistently for over a week.  I checked the gravity today and it is between 1032-1034, which is still rather high.  Visually it appears that fermentation has complete.  I used Wyeast NB NeoBritannia 1945, and think b/c of the high gravity it is just spent. I have another package of this available should I consider adding this fresh yeast to it? What kind of results can I expect if I add another entire smack pack of yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1176" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T15:45:48.913" Title="Possible Stuck Fermentation" Tags="|yeast|high-gravity|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5664" CreationDate="2011-12-04T22:16:24.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you make a starter initially?  If not, you seriously underpitched for a beer of that gravity.  If you want to try adding more yeast, keep in mind that it takes a LOT of yeast to restart a stuck fermentation.  2-3 qt. of yeast slurry is what's usually needed.  if you have a brewpub nearby where you can get some yeast, that would be your best bet.  Or do you have another batch of beer around that you could use the yeast from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T22:16:24.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5663" CreationDate="2011-12-05T13:46:37.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rack the beer off the primary and let it sit for an hour or two to adjust to the temp of the beer you are going to pour over it. A 1.090 beer probably produces a gigantic cake, so you should probably pour some of it out, or you'll be massively over-pitching. Also, the typical advice is to brew weaker beers, and pitch progressively stronger ones onto the cake. I'd still use this cake for your new brew, but keep that in mind for the next time you are going to re-use yeast from primary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T13:46:37.373" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5664" CreationDate="2011-12-05T15:45:48.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like so many things in beer, a multitude of factors could be at work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an all-grain or partial mash?  It's possible that you ended up with a lot of unfermentable sugars and the yeast are just done.  More yeast will have nothing to eat.  In which case your beer is just done.  7.35% ABV and ~63% apparent attenuation.  Not terrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the yeast has pooped out, adding more yeast may or may not help.  I haven't done a lot of research into it, but a friend was explaining how the enzymes that cause the current yeast to flocculate will also cause new yeast to just flocc out to the bottom and go dormant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What temps are you keeping it at?  The first thing I would try is raise the temp up a bit - since most of primary fermentation is done, I'd raise it up to ~70-72 - and gently swirl the fermenter to rouse the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what, I'd definitely give a beer that big another 2-3 weeks in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T15:45:48.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5663" CreationDate="2011-12-05T16:47:11.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not directly reuse the yeast from a 1.090 batch.  After fermenting an OG that high, the yeast is likely &quot;tired out&quot; and weak.  The ROT (Rule of thumb) is not to reuse yeast from a fermentation over 1.060.  I push that to 1.070, but higher than that is not a good idea.  You could wash the yeast and use some to make a new starter, but just pitching on the yeast from a 1.090 batch is asking for problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="1792" LastEditDate="2011-12-18T15:09:17.113" LastActivityDate="2011-12-18T15:09:17.113" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5597" CreationDate="2011-12-05T16:55:56.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try putting dry ice in each bottle. Dry ice is just frozen CO2. Buy a block and break it up into smaller enough pieces to get them into the bottle and recap. The dry ice will melt and return to a gas and carbonate your beer. Might be a little difficult to calculate the amount to put in but I'm sure the formulas are out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don’t throw out your beer there is always something you can do with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T16:55:56.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5672" CreationDate="2011-12-05T19:26:06.117" Score="4" ViewCount="636" Body="&lt;p&gt;In regards to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5597/salvaging-flat-beer&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; I've been inspired to take my flat beer and blend it with a new beer. My main question is when is the best time to combine the two beers? Should it be done at the start of primary fermentation or much later? Are there any &quot;gotchas&quot; or non-obvious things to keep in mind during this process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T02:39:00.210" Title="What is the proper method for blending beers?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5671" CreationDate="2011-12-05T19:52:42.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past I have blended at Packaging time (for me this means kegging).  This has had good results for me in the past.  This also will ensure that you when you blend you can blend to taste versus blending blindly and not knowing what you'll end up with.  I believe this matches major commercial practices as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T19:52:42.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5597" CreationDate="2011-12-06T00:58:09.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue with an Imperial IPA I made this past summer.  It was high gravity and was not carbonating in the bottles.  I had waited some time for it to carb up and it just wasn't doing it, practically completely flat.  I believe the yeast was spent as well.  I ended up uncapping the bottles adding a few grains of dry yeast to the bottles and recapping.  I took great measures to be as sanitary as possible.  In the end this worked, the bottles carbed.  However despite my best efforts to keep everything as sanitary as possible I did get visible infection in a handful of bottles.  it wasn't serious and didn't alter the flavor too much for those affected, but it did occur.  That being said it did work for the majority of my bottles.  You have to weigh whether this is worth it or not for your brew.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4673/beer-not-carbonating&quot;&gt;Link to my post from this summer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1176" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T01:03:42.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5674" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-06T05:21:07.480" Score="2" ViewCount="2288" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might sound like an oddball question. But does it make sense to add a small amount of sugar to a beer (after fermenting appears to have stopped in the primary fementer), after transferring to a secondary fermenter, to create a layer of CO2 right above the beer to keep oxygen out of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had thought about getting a small tank of CO2, possibly even a paintball canister, to “top off” the jug, but a tiny bit of sugar would seem to be an easier way to achieve the same result (for the price of a small amount of additional sediment at the bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done this? Or does anyone have any opinions on this? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1545" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T02:26:58.377" Title="Adding Sugar to Secondary to Create a Layer of CO2?" Tags="|secondary|sugar|co2|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5674" CreationDate="2011-12-06T15:37:36.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to purge the vessel with CO2, this is a great idea, i would personally do it prior to transferring any beer into the fermenter since CO2 is heavier than air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you should be able to use a small amount of CO2 pressure to transfer the beer from one vessel to the other.  This is something I have been looking into (using carboy caps) but haven't yet tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T15:37:36.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5674" CreationDate="2011-12-06T15:39:08.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, no doubt it would create some CO2, but to answer your question directly, no, it doesn't really make sense.  It's just not needed...and for that matter, secondary isn't needed most of the time.  A better solution than adding sugar to the secondary is to just skip secondary entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T15:39:08.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2011-12-06T18:53:05.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could make granola.  Some have praised this recipe or slight variations of it: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.healthywithheather.com/2011/07/cinnamon-coconut-crunch-spent-grain-granola/&quot;&gt;http://www.healthywithheather.com/2011/07/cinnamon-coconut-crunch-spent-grain-granola/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1909" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T18:53:05.263" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-06T18:53:05.263" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5674" CreationDate="2011-12-06T19:16:02.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way to reduce O2 exposure in the secondary is to reduce headspace.  A smaller vessel is one way to do it.  Winemakers &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.articlesbase.com/wines-and-spirits-articles/dont-lose-your-marbles-keep-them-for-your-home-winemaking-1394568.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;apparently use sanitized marbles&lt;/a&gt; to displace the liquid and reduce headspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: as a small aside, I've found beers will offgas more than a little CO2 during the transfer to secondary and subsequent movement.  So even though your yeast is done doing its thing, you will most likely still have your CO2 security blanket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T19:16:02.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5674" CreationDate="2011-12-07T02:26:58.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is CO2 dissolved in the beer post fermentation.  The act of racking the beer disturbs the fluid enough knocking that CO2 out of the beer.   I challenge that you get a small blanket of CO2 anyway.  Is it the same as purging with CO2?  Probably not, but that's my story and I'm sticking to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T02:26:58.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5671" CreationDate="2011-12-07T02:39:00.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing how your beer is in bottles, the best bet is to blend in the glass.  Mix the beer with good carbed beer or commercial beer.&#xA;All in all blending bad beer with good beer just makes....more bad beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T02:39:00.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-07T22:29:55.140" Score="12" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just put another beer in the fermentor and I seem to use huge amounts of water during the whole brewing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have an exact estimate of my water use, but taking into account the washing of equipment, brewing water, wort chiller etc. it must run into many gallons. Besides the expense, this is not great for the environment. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to improve on water usage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T19:43:29.013" Title="How to improve efficiency of water usage..?" Tags="|water|brewing|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-08T12:59:32.463" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5681" CreationDate="2011-12-08T02:16:46.560" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be capturing hot water out of your chiller for cleaning so that water is dual purpose.  Second I was really able to cut down on water usage with a more efficient chilling operation.  For me I invested in a bigger immersion chiller (50ft with 1/2in tubing) and put a pump into operation.  I recirc my wort while chilling creating a whirpool.  This is nothing new but it works super well.  My last session I went from 212F down to &amp;lt;75 in 8 minutes.  Huge savings on water.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Other super efficient chill operations include plate chillers or counterflows.  If you aren't moving your wort in the kettle with an IC it takes much longer than necessary and wastes water.  Of course you need to invest some cash to get better water savings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T02:16:46.560" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-08T12:59:32.463" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5681" CreationDate="2011-12-08T13:10:16.363" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, don't be so hard on yourself. Think of all the efficiencies made by brewing and drinking your own stuff. The beer in the store was driven there in a big, fossil fuel burning truck, with a whole lot of water used in the process. Home brewed beer comes in either re-used glass bottles, or re-purposed soda kegs, never in cans that end up in a landfill if not recycled. So the act of homebrewing in and of itself is probably better for the environment to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, if you want to decrease your water usage even more, then you can do things like: getting a more efficient chiller setup (recirculating with a pump is a must), keeping sanitizing solutions like StarSan around longer by sealing them off from the air so you can use them the next day, or my own personal favorite, giving up the chiller entirely and doing &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#hl=en&amp;amp;cp=10&amp;amp;gs_id=1r&amp;amp;xhr=t&amp;amp;q=no+chill+brewing&quot;&gt;No Chill Brewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T13:10:16.363" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-08T13:10:16.363" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5681" CreationDate="2011-12-08T17:29:11.240" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleaning: If you use PBW, one batch of PBW can be reused many many times. This may also be true of other cleaners, but I've only ever used PBW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanitizing: As with PBW, one batch of StarSan can be reused many times. The key with StarSan is to make the batch with the cleanest water possible and then keep it in a sealed container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooling: There are lots of ways to cut water usage during cooling. First, you can capture all the water you use to cool the beer and save it for later use as cleaning water. Second, you can build a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentarium.com/featured/building-a-recirculating-wort-chiller/&quot;&gt;recirculating cooler&lt;/a&gt; that will use far less water. In a recirculating cooler cold water is pumped through the immersion chiller, back into a bucket full of ice and then back into the immersion chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned, you can also decrease the time it takes to chill your beer by using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php&quot;&gt;whirlpool chiller&lt;/a&gt;. Faster chilling = less water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T17:29:11.240" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-08T17:29:11.240" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2011-12-08T18:10:58.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our chickens love a bit of spent gain. Although we only have two chickens so we still end up composing most of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T18:10:58.847" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-08T18:10:58.847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5687" CreationDate="2011-12-08T19:10:01.577" Score="3" ViewCount="2314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an Imperial IPA that I'm worried has something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG 1.080,&#xA;5gal batch,&#xA;6.5gal fermentation bucket,&#xA;Used a healthy starter,&#xA;Room temp 70f&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Primary kicked up within five hours or so and was pretty steady bubbling every second for two days. Then on the third day it started coming out through the air lock. I rigged up a ghetto blow off tube I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/airlock-bubbling-over-95581/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. On the fourth day it's still bubbling once a second...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't taken any gravity readings because I don't like to mess with my beers while in primary, but does this sound right? Most of my smaller (og 1.060 or below) beers in the past have almost always died down within 2-3 days and then I give them an extra week before moving to secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I  used a lower than usual mash temp of 149f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastEditorUserId="1819" LastEditDate="2011-12-08T19:27:16.197" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T10:28:42.697" Title="Overly Active Fermentation" Tags="|primary|high-gravity|primary-fermentation|imperial|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5686" CreationDate="2011-12-08T19:33:29.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, that sounds perfectly fine.  A big beer like that could easily actively ferment 5-7 days.  I generally won't even look at it for 2 weeks, and let it primary at least 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T19:33:29.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5686" CreationDate="2011-12-08T20:53:32.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At that temperature, I'm not surprised.  If the room temp was 70, the beer temp could have been 75-80.  Way too high for making good beer, but a higher temp will encourage a faster, more active fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T20:53:32.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5539" CreationDate="2011-12-08T22:51:08.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When brewing extract, I'd sometimes found that the extract in contact with the tin sometimes tasted soapy. The taste left a very long lasting back of the tongue bitterness, a bit like eating soap bubbles in the bath (surely everyone has done this as a kid?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to use boiling water to loosen the extract from the inner side and completely empty the tin, but stopped doing that after noticing the off flavour, which did make it though the final beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T22:51:08.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2011-12-08T22:51:58.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been suggested to me that I add my spent grain to the local brewery's or brew pub's spent grain.  They apparently have an arrangement with local farmers who can use it.  I have not yet contacted them to arrange adding my grain to the pile, but I plan to.  Sure beats throwing it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T22:51:58.603" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-08T22:51:58.603" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5648" CreationDate="2011-12-08T23:03:06.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had off flavours creep into several beers that were 4 weeks or longer in primary. If you can crash cool it (after a couple of weeks) until you're ready to rack then that will reduce changes of off flavours and you'll also end up with a clearer beer since the yeast will drop out more efficiently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T23:03:06.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5539" CreationDate="2011-12-09T02:13:23.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've come across soapy flavors on a handful of occasions, and I've yet to figure out where exactly they come from.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My sources indicate that soapy flavors can come from either various salts, or various esters and organic acids.  This leads me to believe that water and fermentation conditions and/or yeast strain/health all can lead to conditions which result in this flavor in one way or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Salts:&#xA;Magnesium/calcium/potassium chloride, &#xA;Sodium sulfate/carbonate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Esters:  Ethyl dodecanoate, ethyl tridecanoate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acids:  Capric acid, dodecanoic acid, pyroglutamic acid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1841" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T02:13:23.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5699" CreationDate="2011-12-09T07:08:08.480" Score="7" ViewCount="12151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't quite found a post that answers my question, when brewing a big beer such as a barley wine I have heard talk about using champagne yeast after the initial yeast has done all it can. If my first yeast doesnt quite drop the gravity far enough could I use champagne yeast to continue the fermentation farther. If so what would be a proper way of going about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-12-09T20:18:43.503" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T08:36:17.383" Title="using champagne yeast as a secondary yeast for fermentation?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5686" CreationDate="2011-12-09T10:28:42.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The high fermentation activity itself isn't a problem, but as Denny says 70F does seems a bit on the high side to make the best beer. For a high gravity 1.080  beer we can expect that actual temperature of the wort to be up at around 78F which is probably at the upper limit of what ale yeast generally likes (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5563/can-we-estimate-the-temperature-rise-in-the-primary-due-to-fermentation&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for estimates of wort temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you actually want your &lt;em&gt;wort&lt;/em&gt; temperature to be at around 70F, you should be aiming for an ambient temperature of around 62F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, all said and done I am sure your beer will be pretty tasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T10:28:42.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5696" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-09T10:34:02.810" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-12-09T10:34:02.810" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T10:34:02.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5697" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-09T10:34:02.810" Score="0" Body="can we remove this tag ... spelling mistake !" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="1422" LastEditDate="2011-12-10T20:04:49.670" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T20:04:49.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5694" CreationDate="2011-12-09T15:12:32.693" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can absolutely do this! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After primary, I would rack to a secondary fermenter (keep enough headspace just in case) and pitch a healthy started of the second yeast. You may consider adding some yeast nutrients as well (similar to what would be done for a Mead) to promote good yeast health. Let this go for the same amount of time that you would normally let a primary fermentation go (I use 2 weeks as a rule of thumb).  Make sure you take gravity readings after you rack so you have a new OG for this second &quot;Primary&quot; fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I would rack to a secondary (tertiary?) for clearing and bulk aging.  I would also be extra careful about oxygen in these racking steps since this will be a beer kept for a long time and there are additional stages that could lead to oxygen based spoilage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastEditorUserId="1737" LastEditDate="2011-12-11T16:21:03.163" LastActivityDate="2011-12-11T16:21:03.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5694" CreationDate="2011-12-09T16:15:53.550" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried using champagne yeast in beer and don't recommend it for a number of reasons.  First, and most importantly, if you pitch the right amount of healthy yeast in the beginning, it just isn't necessary.  second, champagne yeast ferments different sugars than beer yeast.  that can leave strange flavors in your beer.  Having followed the advice about champagne yeast when I was a new brewer and gotten poor results, I wouldn't recommend the practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T16:15:53.550" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5694" CreationDate="2011-12-10T14:02:09.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never had a stalled out beer get moving again with the addition of champagne yeast. I suspect this is primarily because the primary yeast has already consumed the types of sugars that champagne yeast are capable of fermenting.  Wen people do report a drop in gravity post additions of champagne yeast I suspect its the primary strain coming back to life a bit when other things were done while adding the champagne yeast (warming it up, rousing, maybe even some fresh sugar additions if a starter was made with the champagne yeast and of course the inevitable addition of a bit of oxygen when opening the fermentor and adding the new yeast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewers yeast WILL get you where you want to go as long as you have learned to use it right and apply it properly to the wort you are trying to brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T14:02:09.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-10T23:16:22.277" Score="4" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been aging a winter lager and a Mead for a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mead was always in a glass carboy and I just moved it from one to another. I do not have a water air lock for them so I have a balloon I sanitized and sealed around it with plumbers tape. I have a pin hole in it that allows the co2 to leak out. This keeps the balloon inflated but still allows the CO2 to escape properly. For the mead this has been working fantastic and even after racking it is producing enough c02 to inflate the balloon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My been on the other hand went from a primary (5 gallon bucket with a water air lock) to the glass carboy with the same balloon method. The balloon is barley inflating even after a few days, with out a pin hole punched in it. I know the main fermentation happens to a beer the few few days, and I left it in the primary for 2 weeks. After racking should it be processing enough to inflate the balloon? Or did I accidentally botch my beer? I only have the mead to compare it too, I have never racked beer before. If it is ruined can I fix it by adding a little yeast slurry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1918" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-12-15T17:19:57.570" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T18:17:16.490" Title="After Racking should my beer still produce C02" Tags="|racking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5701" CreationDate="2011-12-10T23:27:53.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't expect a lot of fermentation activity after two weeks.  Don't worry; your beer is fine.  Just leave it alone until you're ready to package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T23:27:53.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-11T18:38:13.847" Score="4" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed literally dozens of Beer House brewkits, but I'm waiting on a Winterfest Ale kit that just won't seem to completely stop secondary fermentation...every other time I made these kits, fermenting is absolutely finished after at most 12 days (at 70 degrees), but this kit just keeps on truckin'.  Today is Day 15, and there's still some minimal but steady bubble activity visible in the glass carboy...you can't watch the airlock move, but there is some CO2 still being generated.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I certianly don't want to end up with an exploding batch by bottling too soon (these kits include 190g of dextrose for bottling), but I'm also wondering if everything is actually fine and that this will end up being a more completely fermented batch than I'm used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I go ahead and bottle now as is?  If so, should I cut back a bit on the bottling sugar?  Or should I keep waiting it out until the bubbling completely stops?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1919" LastActivityDate="2011-12-11T20:27:48.260" Title="When is it okay to bottle?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5703" CreationDate="2011-12-11T20:27:48.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Airlock bubbles can mean continued fermentation, or they can just mean there's CO2 coming out of solution.  They're not a reliable indicator.  Take a gravity reading and when you get several consistent readings over a few days, it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-11T20:27:48.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-12T00:44:34.930" Score="2" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have capped several different champagne bottles with 29mm bottle caps, but the 29mm caps seem to fit too loosely on a case of J. Roget Champagne bottles I just picked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was having troubles getting the standard 26mm caps to go on them also.  Are they un-cappable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T00:11:56.503" Title="Can you cap J. Roget Champagne Bottles with bottle caps?" Tags="|bottling|capping|caps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5705" CreationDate="2011-12-12T23:29:18.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience you need to just get some champagne corks and wire ties. This is harder to do without the aid of a corker but the caps won't keep the air out as well as any baddies that will get in to your bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1924" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T23:29:18.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5642" CreationDate="2011-12-12T23:31:53.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just get a high fruit ester producing yeast to help with the banana flavor but this will be hard to control at first but it will taste more like banana than real bananas might in the end. But I have never tried the brew that you guys have talked about here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1924" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T23:31:53.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5613" CreationDate="2011-12-12T23:36:48.497" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the beer has been fermenting leave it be and if you pitch more yeast to save the beer then use a champagne yeast or safe ale 05 but don't aerate it will make matters worse like everyone else has said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1924" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T23:36:48.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5712" CreationDate="2011-12-13T14:46:22.063" Score="2" ViewCount="1173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 1.5lbs of prickly pears and want to make a 2gal all grain batch from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is how should I add the prickly pears?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I smash them and only add the juice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or maybe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut off the skin and add them in secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastEditorUserId="120" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T20:52:15.653" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T17:32:37.043" Title="Prickly Pear Beer Experiment" Tags="|fruit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5711" CreationDate="2011-12-13T16:23:13.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not having done this, I can only offer my thoughts and opinions on the subject.  I would probably juice and add the juice to the boil (probably as late as possible to pasteurize/sterilize without driving off all volatiles.  You'll want to figure the volume and sugar content of juice to add and what your gravity needs to be pre-boil to hit your final post boil volume.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect that you'll have a large than normal volume of trub at the bottom of the fermenter after primary so you may want to shoot for a slightly higher initial volume to combat losses in the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T16:23:13.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5714" CreationDate="2011-12-14T01:09:01.273" Score="7" ViewCount="17843" Body="&lt;p&gt;My American Pale Ale has been fermenting away nicely for the past few days and I'm certain I'll be racking to secondary within a few days (after SG gets stable). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious: I've been keeping my primary stable at ~68°F using a 10 gallon utility bucket filled with water and 100-Watt fish tank heater; can I unplug the heater (I'd like to save the power) and just keep the secondary in the water bath? I live in Southern California, so the low will only be in the high 40's at worst, with the water bath probably averaging ~60°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also going to be dry hopping 2oz of Cascade hops--will the lower temperature be good/bad for this purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1922" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T14:34:00.100" Title="Secondary Fermenter Temperature -- Colder?" Tags="|temperature|secondary-fermentation|carboy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5713" CreationDate="2011-12-14T11:44:11.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once fermentation is mostly complete, keeping the fermentor at the ideal temperature (68, in this case) is less important. The yeast tend to give off fusels and other off flavors at high temperatures mainly during the early stages of fermentation, so raising the temperature won't matter as much. Since fermentation is mostly complete, lowering the temperature won't hurt your final beer either, as the yeast has already completed. You're going to lower the temperature of the beer soon anyway, after packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing you want to consider is temperature swings; consistent temperature tends to be better for the beer. But, since you've got your vessel in water the rapid swings will be minimized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to hops, you may have to experiment, but you'll &lt;em&gt;likely&lt;/em&gt; discern no difference in flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T11:44:11.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5726" CreationDate="2011-12-14T18:31:06.010" Score="7" ViewCount="1636" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this doesn't fall under &quot;opinion&quot; but I believe this will help alleviate some questions on mashing/fermentation techniques. I guess you could break this question into parts. Also the term &quot;drinkable&quot; is assuming the beer is without off-flavors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the terms &quot;dry&quot; and &quot;drinkable&quot; synonymous? My initial answer would be no, since I've had Imperial Stouts that I'd consider more drinkable (not to be mistaken with sessionable) than a dry-stout, say Guinness. Then I've had stouts with lots of residual sweetness that were good, just more of a sipping beer. Although, a &quot;bone dry&quot; beer may not be considered drinkable either. So without answering my own question, I guess it's safe to say drinkable is more related to residual sweetness/alcohol perception?     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the terms &quot;dry&quot; and &quot;low FG&quot; synonymous? Again, a dry beer tends to be low FG but not necessarily the other way around? Can you have a dry beer that was mashed at the higher temp range.. if so what type of body would you expect? I'll use Duvel and Jolly Pumpkin as an example. Both produce great beers that favor the dry side, but certainly do not lack in body. I know Duvel finishes low, Jolly Pumpkin it depends on the beer.. but a good amount finish low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see these terms being tossed around a lot, it would be good to back them up with some facts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1829" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T18:20:01.863" Title="Are the terms &quot;dry&quot;, &quot;low FG&quot; and &quot;drinkable&quot; synonymous?" Tags="|fermentation|mashing|sweetness|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-14T19:13:08.863" Score="4" ViewCount="1445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in finding old beer recipes that are genuine, not clones.  And by old, I'm talking about anywhere from a few hundred years to thousands of years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the beer is going to be significantly different than the beer of today, but I'm quite interested in tasting what our ancestors had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you point me in the direction of books or websites?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T22:15:58.280" Title="Where to get Old Brew Recipes" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5715" CreationDate="2011-12-14T20:01:17.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The words may get frequently overloaded, but they actually all mean different things. I'll attempt to explain below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dry(ness)&lt;/strong&gt; -- Tends to refer to the amount of detectable sweetness in the final beverage. A beer that is hardly sweet would be considered dry. A dry beer could be correlated to Low FG, as little sugar would remain in the beer to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Low FG&lt;/strong&gt; -- Doesn't really mean anything by itself, per se, as it's the measure of sugars still remaining in the liquid. The important calculation here is the difference between OG (Original Gravity) and FG (Final Gravity). If the beer had a high OG then the beer will have a  high alcohol content, assuming fermentation didn't stall. Low FG would merely indicate the yeast did a good job of converting the sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drinkable&lt;/strong&gt; -- Shorthand for refreshing beers, which you can drink a great quantity of without getting sloshed or noticing that you are sloshed.  Not necessarily low in alcohol, but there will be no alcoholic harshness.   Similar to the Belgian idea of &quot;digestable&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1922" LastEditorUserId="1922" LastEditDate="2011-12-16T18:20:01.863" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T18:20:01.863" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5715" CreationDate="2011-12-14T20:36:24.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my own experience, &quot;dry&quot; and &quot;low FG&quot; are completely &lt;strong&gt;unrelated&lt;/strong&gt;. This surprised me at first, but there are a lot of other factors besides FG that determine the 'dryness' of the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right off the bat, the amount of hop bitterness counterbalances the sweetness. Likewise, any astringent character from the mineral qualities of the water will start chipping away at the perceived sweetness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T20:36:24.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5715" CreationDate="2011-12-14T20:49:37.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding of &quot;synonymous&quot; is that it means &quot;equivalent to&quot;. Therefore clearly no, &quot;dry&quot; is not equivalent to &quot;low FG&quot; which is not equivalent to &quot;drinkable&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they may well be related since low FG correlates with light body which can aid in drinkability. Similarly, if you like dry beer then you'll find it drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And why exclude &quot;sessionable&quot; here? Session beers are highly drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T20:49:37.970" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5716" CreationDate="2011-12-14T23:49:00.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This article might be of interest and probably as close as you'll get. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.5/hitchcock.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.5/hitchcock.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T23:49:00.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5724" CreationDate="2011-12-15T01:09:16.233" Score="10" ViewCount="2984" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I take a SG reading with my hydrometer I have a hard time getting an accurate reading because of a few mm of foam at the surface. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get rid of the foam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1922" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T03:37:18.503" Title="Cure for foamy hydrometer?" Tags="|hydrometer|foam|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2011-12-15T01:48:52.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Patience helps.&#xA;I give the hydrometer a spin in the wort which helps it settle without influence from the bubbles/foam.  Depending on how dark the beer is I can usually read it from underneath the foam through the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T01:48:52.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2011-12-15T02:17:34.783" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try filling the tube up to (or at least close to) the top, so that when you lower the hydrometer, most of the foam spills over the edge. Once it's that high up, it's not too hard to blow most of the remaining foam off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget though to give the hydro a dunk and spin to dislodge any bubbles stuck to the bottom of the hydrometer from an excessively carbonated sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T02:17:34.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2011-12-15T02:35:19.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a refractometer. The advantages are many, and include the fact the foam and carbonation are irrelevant to the reading. Lots of cheap ones available on eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T02:35:19.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5715" CreationDate="2011-12-15T02:43:26.560" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry is the same as &quot;not sweet&quot;. But high FG is not necessarily sweet. If the residual sugars are long-chain carbohydrates, they will contribute to body but not much to sweetness. So I'd say that low FG implies dry, but high FG does not necessarily imply sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T02:43:26.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-15T06:18:37.777" Score="4" ViewCount="1854" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had an ongoing problem for the last several months that never used to happen:  My brew smells pretty normal during fermentation, except midway through, it changes from the normal US-05 yeast smell to a &quot;canned meat&quot; smell, which is reminiscent of barley in soup.  It is only there briefly, and by the time I bottle, it's totally gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After bottling, and letting the beer carbonate, when I open a bottle, and then pour into a glass, that same smell is back again, and it won't go away.  The flavor seems decent, but if I belch, I can taste the &quot;smell&quot;.  On rare occasions, it dissipates totally after 8-10 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had this problem before, and it even happened with DME.  I mainly brew All Grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not so sure it's an infection, since it always gets better, but it doesn't always clear up, completely.  The taste really isn't affected that much, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going on?  I've scoured the internet, but to no avail.  Palmer's book doesn't give any clues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use plastic fermenters, so should I just replace them?  They are in good shape.  The smell just ruins the beer.  I'm about ready to quit brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like I used a glass fermenter once or twice, and still had this problem.  Is it possbile US-05 isn't what it used to be?  As far as I know, I'm practicing good sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T17:02:31.627" Title="Bad &quot;Canned Meat&quot; smell after bottling, and briefly mid-fermentation" Tags="|beer|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5727" CreationDate="2011-12-15T12:43:16.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only meaty smells I've heard of are a result of autolysis, but you'd have to be leaving your beers in the primary for a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; long time for that to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use US-05 for about 75% of my beers, and haven't had issues, so I'm guessing the problem isn't there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I would look at: what kinds of cleaner and sanitizer are you using?  What's your sanitation routine?  Have you replaced your vinyl hoses lately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T12:43:16.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5642" CreationDate="2011-12-15T14:30:22.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used bananas while brewing before.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, it's hard to get any flavor out of them.  Fermented bananas, don't leave much banana flavor.  This is very similar to how wine, doesn't really taste like grapes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want the flavor from them (and not the fermentable sugars) here's what I'd suggest.  I'd mash &amp;amp; sanitize them.. put them in a grain bag... then add them to the secondary.  Sample every other other day.. remove them after a week.  If you still want more flavor, get fresh bananas and repeat the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T14:30:22.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2011-12-15T14:50:36.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While @tallie's overflow answer is excellent, you can also just wait.  I take my sample into a footed hydrometer test jar.  Set it aside and do other brewery things while the foam settles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xRNT3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T14:50:36.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5701" CreationDate="2011-12-15T18:17:16.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Release of CO2 doesn't necessarily mean that the beer is still fermenting...it just means CO2 is being released!  As you know, CO2 is created during fermentation.  A good portion of it is absorbed by the beer.  When you move the beer, you release CO2.  If the beer warms, CO2 comes out of solution.  So, the only way to know if the beer is done fermenting is to take a series of gravity readings over a number of days.  When the reading stabilizes, the beer is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T18:17:16.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2011-12-15T22:02:26.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a turkey baster to extract my wort/beer, I always slowly drain the beer out into the plastic hydrometer cylinder to decrease the amount of foam. I always like to give it time to sit and get to room temp, this should give it time to de-gas. I also like to take a test sample when it's warmer for a better idea of the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1829" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T22:02:26.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5642" CreationDate="2011-12-15T22:05:03.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;bananas are a decent source of dextrins but they're not going to leave much in the way of flavor in your beer unless you use a lot of them. They will help give your beer some more body though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually toss a banana into my fermenting wines to add some body to the finished wine (especially if the wine is made from canned concentrate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T22:05:03.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5716" CreationDate="2011-12-15T22:15:58.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to look for the book Sacred and Herbal Healing Beers. There are a number of recipes in this book that are collected from ancient sources. You should also do some research in to Gruit (www.gruitale.com) Gruit is beer that was brewed before the widespread use of hops (pre 1500s) and uses a number of herbs for their bittering and preservative characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a museum in Milwaukee (where I live) has been doing a series of symposiums about brewing ancient beers, the recipes have either been sourced from old books and ledgers or recreated based on mass spectrometry analysis of empty pots found in ancient burial sites. The archeologist that hosts the brewing sessions has posted his recipes and info about the re-created recipes on his blog: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.distantmirror.discoveryworld.org/?cat=5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.distantmirror.discoveryworld.org/?cat=5&lt;/a&gt; (scroll down a bit)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T22:15:58.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5144" CreationDate="2011-12-16T00:59:44.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For them both located in MN, I used to order only from Midwest, took almost a week to get my order in Indiana. Nothern Brewer was here in 2 day...That's my VOTE &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1927" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T00:59:44.277" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-16T00:59:44.277" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5741" CreationDate="2011-12-17T01:36:54.447" Score="4" ViewCount="9293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard a lot of folks complaining about the use of finings in beer &amp;amp; one in particular claimed that commercial brewers stopped using finings once they had to start listing ingredients on the label of the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just isinglass that puts people off?  Gelatin too?  Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T15:09:56.860" Title="What's wrong with using finings?" Tags="|ingredients|clarity|finings|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5736" CreationDate="2011-12-17T03:31:39.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gelatin may bother vegetarians, since it is an animal product -- made of from the collagen inside animals' skin and bones. Isinglass would have the same problems.  Other than that, your question is a bit difficult to answer.  What were the specific complaints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-12-17T03:31:39.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-17T13:54:23.923" Score="2" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did my first beer using honey last night and the beer is not bubbling this morning as it usually does. Is this normal? Should I re-pitch the yeast or not? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1932" LastEditorUserId="1932" LastEditDate="2011-12-17T14:18:47.993" LastActivityDate="2011-12-17T16:10:21.407" Title="Brewed with honey and the yeast is not working?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|foam|honey|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5738" CreationDate="2011-12-17T14:46:11.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 smack pack in a barleywine, you say?   I've found that bigger beers tend to have longer lag times before the yeast get going, and unless you made a sizable starter, the yeast are going to have to work even harder.   If you didn't make a starter, it wouldn't hurt to pitch more yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will probably also help to aerate/oxygenate again.  You're generally safe giving high-gravity beers more oxygen every 8-12 hours or so until it gets to bubbling, but you need to stop as soon as it is, so that there's not any left over after the yeast have done their thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr. Malty's Pitching rate calculator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-12-17T14:46:11.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5738" CreationDate="2011-12-17T16:10:21.407" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to your recipe you're at 1.052 estimated OG.  According to the Mr. Malty calculator that @baka posted, you'd want 2 smack-packs to get to the recommended amount of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, you probably under-pitched, and that's why you're seeing a lag in yeast activity.  However, you don't need to panic.  It can take 24-72 hours to see signs of fermentation.  I've had side-by-side batches where I pitched the same yeast into both, where one took off within hours and the other took 2 days to get started.  They both ended up fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Serious under-pitching can lead to stressed yeast and off flavors, but at only 1.052, I don't think you've got much risk of that.  If I were you I'd just relax, wait, and let the yeast do their thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-12-17T16:10:21.407" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5736" CreationDate="2011-12-18T21:21:26.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fining are wonderful, especially on a home brew scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of them are just organic material, and I don't any reason a normal omnivore would worry. If you refuse to drink beer with isinglass, you shouldn't be eating fish sauce or Worcestershire either:D &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some finings like polyclar are plastics, and not FDA approved for consumption. The idea is that they filter this stuff out before they package. These finings are perfectly safe if used correctly, but I can see how plastic in your beer and kidneys could be off-putting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastActivityDate="2011-12-18T21:21:26.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2011-12-18T22:06:19.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just pour the sample between two containers a few times and the gas dissipates. Its not like the beer is really carbonated, so it goes flat with a little disturbance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you taste it too:D!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastActivityDate="2011-12-18T22:06:19.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5747" CreationDate="2011-12-19T02:02:03.497" Score="3" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know a lot of breweries have a house yeast that they use, and in some cases it's their only yeast. I've also heard that most will only harvest up to six generations, due to weak flocculation and maybe even attenuation. I'm familiar with top-cropping and how they're harvesting the yeast, but how do they start anew once they've reached that 6 generation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: And how would a homebrewer go about mimicking this process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1829" LastEditorUserId="1829" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T03:26:30.853" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T03:27:21.277" Title="Commercial brewery house yeast" Tags="|yeast|commercial|brewery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5746" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-19T02:12:29.543" Score="2" ViewCount="487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my steep at about 175 and wans't concerned but when i put the lid on the vessel to keep it constant it shot up. In the end my grains steeped at about 190 for 40 min. This is a pumpkin ale and has about 10lbs of base malt and 2 lbs of caramel malt in addition to about 8 lbs of pumpkin. is this beer destined for disaster? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1935" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T14:36:35.290" Title="Over temp when steeping an all grain" Tags="|temperature|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5745" CreationDate="2011-12-19T03:10:06.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really a home brewing question, so it may get closed. But the answer is that breweries either have an in-house lab or a lab they hire (such as White Labs) that stores and propagates fresh pitches of yeast as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T03:10:06.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5745" CreationDate="2011-12-19T03:27:21.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We buy pitches from White Labs when we need to.  They ship them up overnight.  They're very expensive, so harvesting yeast and keeping it going is key.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T03:27:21.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5736" CreationDate="2011-12-19T03:35:16.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get away with unfined and unfiltered and you don't care too much about appearance, quite often the result is fantastic on the flavor end of things.  Just like with wine, in the beer world there are people who don't mind cloudiness if they get all the good flavors they want from a beer.  With my wine and with my beer, I prefer to go the unfined/unfiltered route if at all possible.  The problem is that the masses sometimes find a cloudy beer suspect and won't give it the attention it deserves.  So many commercial brewers will fine or filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the beauty of homebrewing-- brew what you like to drink, not what you like to see... because appearance really doesn't matter in terms of how a beer tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as safety goes, there's nothing wrong with most commercially-available fining agents.  IF you're not vegetarian, then there's nothing there that will offend.  Most are non-chemical and derived from animal parts.  I like BioFine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen an awful lot of vegetarians taking jello shots and not complaining about the poor horse that provided the gelatin.  I always find that funny.  Isinglass is fish-derived, so pescatarians don't have to worry ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T03:35:16.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2011-12-19T03:37:18.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;for the most accurate reading, it's always good to gas off some of the co2 by pouring the beer from glass to glass a few times and then filling the hydrometer all the way to the top so the foam overflows, as Tallie says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T03:37:18.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2038" CreationDate="2011-12-19T03:48:41.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably have malolactic fermentation happening in the bottle.  Apples are high in malic acid.  If any oenococcus got in there-- it's ambient and lives in wood, often found in barns, garages, etc-- then it will eat the malic acid and produce lactic acid-- which is what makes Chardonnays buttery.  The bacteria lives in oak, and is why we associate oak aging with buttery flavors in wine.  It would be nice in an apple wine, so you might actually want it... but you need to let it complete it's process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution:  get an ML test kit from Vintner's Vault so you can test for completion and either (1) inoculate for ML fermentation by buying an ML culture and pitching it right after primary or (2) hit the wine with 25-50ppm SO2 after primary and 40ppm SO2 prior to bottling to lessen the chances of ML occurring in-bottle.  Either way, you want to let the wine sit in tank for a few months before bottling, at least (if you're not oak aging it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I make a Rose, which I don't want to send through ML, I keep it in stainless until February or March or so, and then hammer it with SO2 at bottling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T03:48:41.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5746" CreationDate="2011-12-19T13:33:24.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have personal experience with this, but in the end of it all, you'll still wind up with beer.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher temperature will encourage extraction of more longer-chain sugars from the grain, which will probably result in reduced attenuation and a thicker mouthfeel.   It also has a higher likelihood of extracting tannins from the grain husks, which are the chemicals that give black tea its astringency.  Tannin in a beverage can also be perceived as a &quot;dryness&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the top end of your range, you were warm enough to denature enzymes that convert the starches to sugars, but they also do the vast majority of their work in the first few minutes of mash-in.   If your wort tastes sweet, you should have at least something for your yeast to chew on, but your beer may not wind up being the beer that you were looking for.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T13:33:24.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5762" CreationDate="2011-12-19T15:17:11.310" Score="3" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I am finished with the brew and want to top it off in the primary fermenter to make it an even 5 gallons. What type of water can I use. Can I use Jugs of purfied water from the store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T00:57:38.387" Title="Fill water in primary" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5754" CreationDate="2011-12-19T16:03:26.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can use any water that you would normally brew with.  Personally, I would boil and chill the topoff water the same as I would the Wort for sterilization purposes.  You can probably get away with any of the packaged water from the store without too much concern over sanitation. I'm just a bit more paranoid!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T16:03:26.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5746" CreationDate="2011-12-19T16:08:42.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to Baka's excellent answer, did you do an Iodine test to test for starch conversion.  It's possible that you may not have had full conversion or conversion may have taken significantly longer than expected.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help avoid this in the future I would definitely recommend a good stirring of the mash and taking temp readings at several spots in the mash and using the average temp as your &quot;mash temp&quot; as they should all drift towards that average.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are direct firing your mash (it sounds like Brew in a Bag?), I would recommend using something to encourage water movement around the mash to help even the temperatures out a bit and good monitoring of those temps. A thermometer in your re-circulation pipeline would be very useful for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T16:08:42.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5746" CreationDate="2011-12-19T16:58:55.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starting at 175 and going up from there, you almost certainly denatured a good portion of the enzymes.  You may end up with a lot of unfermentables and a very high FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T16:58:55.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5648" CreationDate="2011-12-19T18:01:59.000" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;leaving the wort on the primary yeast cake for over 3 weeks is not advisable. The yeast begin breaking down their waste products, better to transfer wort off the primary yeast cake into a secondary to continue the conditioning phase. Watch out for those Diactels, you'll get some real off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1940" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T18:01:59.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5694" CreationDate="2011-12-19T19:37:50.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of these techniques willmake a big impact, but you can squeeze a couple more points out if your careful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, don't decide if your beer is good based on SG. The most important measurement is taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding dry yeast to.already fermented beer doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is Krausen. Make a starter and pitch into your beer at the peak of fermentation. Pitch a bunch and oxygenate the starter well to stremgthen the cell walls. I would recommend lager yeast as it can eat slightly larger sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T19:37:50.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5754" CreationDate="2011-12-19T22:17:15.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, I agree with the above answers. Practically speaking you'll make great beer with whatever un-chlorinated water is convenient and sanitary. I'm just adding some more data in case you lay awake at night thinking about water too:D &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water Choice:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your brewing extract on the stove, I would recommend you use Reverse Osmosis (RO) water from the store. There are water stores all over that will fill up an old water container for about 25c a gallon. Since your brewing with extract, the necessary minerals are already present as they were in the original mash water when the wort was made. Some of the &quot;natural spring&quot; water choices are high in minerals, and could end up with more minerals than you really want in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanitation Concerns:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just make sure to star-san everything before getting the jugs filled. But if you are concerned it might not hurt to toss a campden tablet in there. Make sure you give the campden time to break down before adding to your beer or you'll kill off your yeassties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: One thing that I have found useful is to cool my top off water in the freezer while I brew and use to chill down those last few pesky degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastEditorUserId="1933" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T00:57:38.387" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T00:57:38.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-19T22:24:45.387" Score="5" ViewCount="686" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking into this for sometime, and I can't seem to find any definitive answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I'm pretty convinced that I won't find a reasonable home filter that will eliminate chloramine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current method is to carbon filter the water, and then add campden to break down the chloramine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T22:51:43.957" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T22:51:43.957" Title="Best Methods for removing chloramine" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5711" CreationDate="2011-12-19T22:42:46.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't boil them if you like the aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your adding them to beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should mash them up and add them (with juice) at flame out, whirlpool/sit for a few minutes to pasteurize. I would put the solids in a muslin bag for easy extraction. You can experiment from there, maybe even &quot;dry pear&quot; the finished beer:D I would keep the hops light until you know how this tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your just making a wine:&#xA;I would mash them up with a potato masher and fill with water to desired quantity. Then hit it with campden.  You should add sugar/honey/etc to hit the appropriate OG. I would put the solids in a bag and remove after fermentation is complete. Make sure to use a yeast nutrient if your not adding malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know how this works out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T22:42:46.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5763" CreationDate="2011-12-19T22:42:51.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that you've hit on the best way to handle it on a homebrew scale. Half a tablet of campden works for 5 gallons of water so this should be a reasonably cheap and effective method of dealing with the Chloramine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T22:42:51.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-20T03:57:40.577" Score="4" ViewCount="1225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making my third batch of cider using juice from a local farm, so far its worked out well other than a persistent haze in one batch. I want to try and simplify / improve by process by removing a racking and priming step if possible. I would like to rack my bucket fermentation early at an SG that will ensure i generate sufficent additional CO2 in keg for the finished product. What calculation should I be using assuming I will run to total dryness? eg. If I rack at 1.020 and after the secondary ferm end at just below 1 what volumes of CO2 will be in the cider assuming I keep the keg sealed or an appropiate top pressure? Could I use this to produce fully sparkling cider for bottling?&#xA;If any one has any insight, guidance or advise I would be most greatful.&#xA;Kind Regards&#xA;Arend&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1943" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T21:17:57.263" Title="Secondary fermentation including carbonation in a Corney keg" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5767" CreationDate="2011-12-20T05:02:24.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, that's a tricky one. I'm of the opinion you wont make the same quality cider with this method. Fermentation is the most important part of the process, and the hardest to keep consistent. Towards the end of fermentation the yeast are cleaning up their byproducts, they are battling alcohol levels and fatigue as it is. Fermenting under pressure will not only stop fermentation stank from blowing off, it will make the clean-up job even more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try, I would base my calculations on your experience in previous batches.&#xA;I will attempt to get this right:D, please check my work and let me know what I missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you want 2 volumes of pressure, and your storing at 65 F. I will assume you've got a 5 gallon batch. Mr Palmer's handy nomograph located &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/images/f65.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, tells us you need to add 2.4 oz of priming (cane) sugar to 5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what we need to understand, is how many gravity pts 2.4 oz of sugar adds to your 5 gallon batch. 16 oz of (cane) sugar in 1 gallon yields 1.046, so in 5 gallons you'll get 1.0092 (46/5). That means that 1 oz of cane sugar in 5 gallons will give you 1.000575 (9.2/16). If Palmers chart says we need 2.4 oz, that's the equivalent of adding .00138 (.575*2.4) of specific  gravity pts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to bottle when your cider is .00138 higher than the expected F.G, which you can really only know from experience with this cider must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say these apples always ferment out to 1.000 (for simplicity), you need to bottle at 1.00138 and then store at 65 F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck, and please let me know if this works out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastEditorUserId="1933" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T21:17:57.263" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T21:17:57.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="183" CreationDate="2011-12-20T05:10:44.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know your question is about contamination, but I figure your interested in how to prevent this in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend fermcap to reduce the volatility of big fermentation. Its a foam control product that really helps. I ferment 5.5 gallon batches in 6.5 gallon carboys, with this product I've been able to ferment 1.080 beers with only an airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use it to prevent boil overs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T05:10:44.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-20T07:01:00.247" Score="4" ViewCount="2661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen plenty of data and apps that help you estimate the viability of a liquid yeast culture. But I haven't seen a lot of data about dry yeast. I like using dry yeast for 1 gallon test batches and experiments, and it would be great to understand how much healthy yeast I'm actually pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of argument, lets assume I'm asking about yeast that has been properly handled and stored at 40 degrees F. &#xA;Lets also assume i properly rehydrate with water before using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr Malty Pitching Calculator&lt;/a&gt; seems to estimate that liquid cultures are &amp;lt; 1% vaible at one year. But it looks like dry yeast is still 68% viable when a year old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good references on this subject, and how can I refine my control of dry yeast pitching rate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastEditorUserId="1933" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T21:15:05.670" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T21:47:59.903" Title="How do I estimate the viability of dry yeast?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-20T07:28:11.963" Score="3" ViewCount="1558" Body="&lt;p&gt;The equations I've looked at so far don't really account for massive late hopping and whirlpool additions. I really like the flavor and aroma I get from late hopping, but It's been very hard to brew a consistent beer.&#xA;I realize that none of these equations is very accurate to begin with, but from a recipe design standpoint I really need a way to estimate how much bitterness I'll end up with. &#xA;How do I (somewhat) estimate the bitterness impact of super late additions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T18:22:11.750" Title="How do I account for Late Hop/Whirlpool IBUs?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5746" CreationDate="2011-12-20T14:30:39.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still pretty new at this. It is an all grain recipe I built myself. It was a mash, not a steep.( I apologize-my terminogy was sloppy.)  No iodine test. I am clueless about it.The pumpkin was  cooked, so I think that'll give up some of it's sugars more easily. I did get a good bubble in the fermenter so the yeast are feeding on something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastEditorUserId="1944" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T14:36:35.290" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T14:36:35.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="183" CreationDate="2011-12-20T16:21:59.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Am I reading this right? Did you put a solid stopper in the carboy? If that's not the case, please ignore this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though most of the fermentation is complete when you transfer to secondary, the beer is still releasing CO2 which needs some way of exiting the carboy. If you use an airlock instead of a solid stopper, you'll see a significant reduction in frequency of explosions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T16:21:59.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="183" CreationDate="2011-12-20T16:43:03.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you transferred to secondary after only a week, it's likely the fermentation wasn't finished.  That would explain t he blowout on a sealed container.  But in general, you don't need to use secondary.  Just leave the beer in the primary for 3-4 weeks and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T16:43:03.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5767" CreationDate="2011-12-20T19:32:10.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to do everything in one vessel, consider an entirely pressurized fermenter setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key piece to this is the Spunding valve, which will control the release of pressure to keep your fermenter at a specific pressure level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Closed-system_pressurized_fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Closed-system_pressurized_fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, downsides. The first 2 that come to mind are:&#xA; 1. You'll have to seal with Trub in the bottom where the Dip tube for that keg is, which means blowing out a lot of trub before you get good cider&#xA; 2. Autolysis: If you don;t rack, you'll be staying on the yeast cake forever which may cause autolysis. Autolysis is when the yeast cells decay and rupture, spilling their fetid insides into your carefully produced cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would definitely stick with fermenting in a dedicated vessel and then rack out to a keg or secondary for further clearing/maturation.  Force carbonation is a great way of not having to worry about priming and being able to get exactly the carbonation profile you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T19:32:10.583" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5778" CreationDate="2011-12-20T20:01:19.223" Score="2" ViewCount="3027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked before and got some help and have done some reading since. The temp in my mash jumped from 175 to about 195 after I put the lid back on. How much damage did I do? Some things I've read since suggest that it may be okay since the density of the grain(and, in this case, about 8lbs of cooked pumpkin) may have kept the center mass of the mash somewhat insulated. Opinions? There were some spices(cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, cayenne) added so it may mask any tannins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastEditorUserId="1737" LastEditDate="2011-12-21T19:05:44.573" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T23:24:53.827" Title="overheated the mash by a long shot" Tags="|flavor|mash|all-grain|temperature|mashing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5776" CreationDate="2011-12-20T20:30:11.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you measured 190 F at any location in your Tun, I would expect the average temp to exceed 170 F.&#xA;Pumpkin is mostly water and I don't see it as a significant insulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enzymes are little chemical keys that convert the starch in you pumpkins and grain into sugars that the yeast can consume. There are several families of enzymes and each can only tolerate a certain amount of heat before they denature, or fall apart. Once they denature they cannot be recovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All enzymes used in brewing denature at about 170 F. If you held your mash above that temperature for any length of time your enzymes denatured without an opportunity to convert the starch into sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without this important step, your wort will be composed of mainly starch. I would expect a very high final gravity, and a very cloudy beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate to say it, but you won't be able to drink this beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I'm changing my recommendation, if you don't need the equipment to keep brewing. You should definitely ferment this out and see what happens. If you do this, please update the question so we can all learn from your experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. - I think there might be a salvage technique you could apply if this ever happens again. IF you accidentally kill off the enzymes, you should cool the mash back down to an appropriate temp (say 145 F) and add Beano. Beano has the necesary enzymes for this job. Periodically perform an iodine test to measure your conversion. When the mash has converted &quot;mash out&quot; or raise the the temp above 170 again to denature the Beano. (Don't skip the last step or the beano will never quit, and you'll have a super dry beer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastEditorUserId="1933" LastEditDate="2011-12-21T12:50:20.857" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T12:50:20.857" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5776" CreationDate="2011-12-20T20:44:27.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@dana's answer is full of good info.  I'd only make one change: if I were you, I would just wait it out and see what happens.  It's possible the beer is ruined, it's possible it's the best beer ever, but it's probably somewhere in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tasting the final beer will be an excellent learning experience, if nothing else.  Learning from our mistakes is just as important as making great beer, in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T20:44:27.377" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5770" CreationDate="2011-12-20T23:32:55.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been poking at this a little today, There's a site located &lt;a href=&quot;http://seanterrill.com/2011/04/01/dry-yeast-viability/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which suggests dry yeast loses 4% viability per month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reverse Engineering the Mr. Malty calculator suggests that dry yeast is only 90% viable when packaged, and loses 2% viability per month stored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: It would seem that each strain actually handles the dehydration (dessication) process differently. I pulled this out a publication on the Fermentis website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SkqVw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastEditorUserId="1933" LastEditDate="2011-12-21T12:52:22.957" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T12:52:22.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-21T06:24:13.290" Score="4" ViewCount="1052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I forcecarb every batch over 2 gallons. I do this primarily because I have no way of measuring the amount of CO2 already present when I calculate my priming sugar. Is there a way to estimate disolved carbon dioxide in a beer before packaging? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard jamil z. come up with some crazy balloon idea on brew strong, I'm hoping for an answer that doesn't use the word &quot;eyeball&quot;:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T07:52:05.007" Title="Measuring Dissolved C02" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5780" CreationDate="2011-12-21T12:24:51.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the best way is to use a carbonation table similar to the one on the attached ein conjunction with  devices that measure pressure and temperature. In the past I have used a destructive method with a tool that fitted a crowned bottle of finished beer. The procedure was simple &#xA;1. attach to the top of the bottle &#xA;2. pierce the bottle and push down the dial temp indicator.&#xA;3. Agitate the bottle till room temperature is achieved.&#xA;3. Read of pressure and temperature  = CO2 vols on chart&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I will look to see if I can locate the device I used in the past, they were simple and robust.&#xA;Alternatively if you all ready have a pressure guage on your keg, you know the beer is stable and you know the temperature. You could do it with out the bottle test and loss of a product. Although I think the agitation  and temperature normalization is probably necessary for accuracy.&#xA;The method I describe was used and may still be used as a bottling line CO2 check in a commercial brewery.&#xA;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1943" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T12:24:51.647" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5782" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-21T13:05:13.700" Score="5" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard Jamil Z. from the brewing network recommend re-mashing malt extract with a handful of two/six row to improve ferment-ability. Since the extract producer is attempting to please a larger customer base, they choose a middle of the road mash temp and thus a middle of the road ferment-ability. If making a high gravity beer, increasing ferment-ability of the extract could greatly improve the finished product. I want some empirical data on this topic before I attempt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did this work for you?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you lose extract in this process? (i.e. did the grain suck up sugar, etc.?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Based on your experience would you recommend the process to others?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T00:42:32.923" Title="What should I expect from re-mashing malt extract?" Tags="|fermentation|process|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5790" CreationDate="2011-12-21T13:56:13.040" Score="2" ViewCount="1990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was bottling a batch of beer last night and as always I take the last bit from the bottling bucket to test the Final gravity. When I tested it it read 1.044.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After much talking amoungst ourselfs we decided to try taking a sample on one of the other bottles that had been filled much earlier in the process and found its FG to be 1.020. Significantly lower than the 1.044. I am guessing this is from the sugar not evenly dispersing into the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the best way to get a consistent FG?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastEditorUserId="1737" LastEditDate="2011-12-21T19:59:22.530" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T19:59:22.530" Title="Variable Final Gravity when Priming for Bottle Conditioning" Tags="|bottling|bottle-conditioning|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5390" CreationDate="2011-12-21T14:48:09.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had great luck with using a digital probe thermometer (ie like the ones used for cooking and reading meat temperatures) for mashing, cooling, boiling, etc. etc. etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been through 2 floating thermometers, one lab thermometer, and a Blichmann weldless brewmometer, which, even though I shielded it from burner heat, lost its hermetic seal and essentially says I am at 195-230 degrees when boiling.  troll some of the forums for recommendations on the best thermometer (there's one that will be the last thermometer you ever buy)....using accurate equipment will definitely improve the quality of your beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T14:48:09.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="183" CreationDate="2011-12-21T14:59:23.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a side note to this, I am DONE using whole leaf hops in the boil without a muslin bag or strainer into the primary.  I have run into more problems leaving whole leaf hops in my brews (clogged/BROKEN siphons, this problem, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T14:59:23.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5784" CreationDate="2011-12-21T15:44:18.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should always test FG before adding your priming sugar.   You can use a sanitized wine thief or turkey baster to pull samples from a carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll get a better mixture if you gently pour the simple syrup into the bottom of the bottling bucket, and then rack the beer into that.   The flow of the beer will mix it thoroughly, and will not introduce much(any) additional oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T15:44:18.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5788" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-21T15:54:07.217" Score="9" ViewCount="11855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen the term 'batch size' applied to three different things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Volume of wort put into the fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Volume of finished beer that comes out of the fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Post-boil wort volume&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an agreed-upon definition of 'batch size'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, there's one answer that says #2 and another that says #1. I personally believe the answer is #3, since its post-boil volume that sets the OG. It seems like there's no agreed-upon definition of this term, so I'm going to close this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastEditorUserId="758" LastEditDate="2011-12-27T02:05:16.200" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T02:05:16.200" Title="What is 'Batch Size'?" Tags="|batch-size|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5782" CreationDate="2011-12-21T16:35:24.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you doing Jamil's Golden Strong Belgian recipe? I did that one, and did in fact re-mash my extract. I was doing it as a mostly all-grain though. I Just used some extract to get the gravity up past 1.060 (my limit for All Grain at the time) up to 1.080 or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My results: final gravity was like 1.007 or something, so the beer definitely dried out. However, I also: used Beano in the mash; made a very big starter; and ramped up the temps to 80F after 5-6 days. So I'm not sure what effect mashing the extract had, if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how much I lost to the grain, as my efficiency was kind of all over the place in those days. However, I don't suspect you would loose much (maybe 10%?) if you are doing a proper sparge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T16:35:24.717" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5784" CreationDate="2011-12-21T16:40:19.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.044 Final Gravity?!?!   &lt;em&gt;You have a severe danger of bottle bombs!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference, you should dissolve your sugar in some boiling water, then pour that into the bucket, then rack the beer on top of the sugar water. That ensures equal distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid you are going to have problems with this batch. Probably, a lot of the bottles will be undercarbonated, and some of them will be overcarbonated, dangerously so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should store this beer in a place where it won't cause problems if some of the bottles start exploding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T16:40:19.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5788" CreationDate="2011-12-21T16:54:20.093" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Batch Size is how much you package. Think of it like cooking, when creating a recipe your not shooting for so many cups of batter.. you want to know how many pancakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I boil 7 Gallons (Pre-Boil Vol)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I end up with 6 Gallons (Post Boil Vol)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I ferment 5.5 Gallons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then put 5 Gallons in my Keg.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process makes a 5 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastEditorUserId="1933" LastEditDate="2011-12-21T17:18:18.010" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T17:18:18.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5390" CreationDate="2011-12-21T17:05:07.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Calibrating a thermometer to boiling and freezing temps is not a good idea unless you mash at boiling or freezing temps!  As you've seen, it can be on the money at one extreme and way off at the other.  I used a calibrated, NIST certified lab thermometer to calibrate my bimetal dial thermometer that I use for brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T17:05:07.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5788" CreationDate="2011-12-21T18:11:54.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm brewing I typically think about what volume is going into the fermenters more than anything further down the line. This usually directly relates to what goes into the keg or into bottles but depends greatly on losses later in the process.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To twist dana's excellent example (and to be clear I do not completely disagree with his definition) when you make up a batch of batter the final number of pancakes depends greatly on the size of said pancakes (ok this is akin to bottle sizes so you're still good). However your ladle/scooping process will impact the number of pancakes since you will have losses to the bowel and to the scooper that aren't dependent on the batter recipe.  So there's still a little room for interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I definitely agree that nothing pre-fermenter would in my mind be considered the batch size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T18:11:54.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5784" CreationDate="2011-12-21T18:59:38.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This actually happened to me too this past weekend.  I took the last bit from the secondary and had a gravity of 1.030 or so and was disheartened to see such.  Then I thought that maybe since I took from the bottom there was too much trub augmenting the reading.  So I popped open one of my bottles and measured it.  It was 1.01!  Much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the moral is don't measure from the trub.  I am guessing this makes sense since the trub allows for a denser solution thus skewing the reading...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T18:59:38.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5799" CreationDate="2011-12-21T20:20:00.313" Score="2" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I found a recipe for gose on a site, and thought it looked interesting.  However, I am bound to extract at the moment, as my mash tun is under repair.  I converted to extract, but long story short, I think I may have over-salted it.  The recipe I found was for 10gal, and I made 5.  I adjusted everything but the salt (but did adjust the salt at the last minute, thinking it might just be too much).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-3.3 lbs pale LME&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-3.3 lbs bavarian wheat LME (I think my color may be off as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-2 lbs milled acid malt steeped for 30 min pre-boil at 160&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-1oz styrian goldings 60 min (stepped this up from 0.5 oz in the recipe as I was doing a partial-volume boil)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-1 oz ground coriander (15 min - may have gone overboard on this as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-salt (here's where my recollection gets hazy.  I either did 25 g or 30 g (don't ask why I used metric, it was on the original 10 gal recipe), which is between .88oz and 1.05oz)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-1 lb pureed fresh figs (beer is for my brother who loves figs...may try them in the secondary as well if they ferment out)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-1 vial WL kolsch yeast pitched at ~72 deg after dilution to 5.2 gallons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-OG of 1.052&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I won't know until its done fermenting and I give it a try.  However, assuming it is a salty mess, could I brew another 5 gallons and dilute?  If I did, I might secondary this first salt-lick batch with more figs, as I'm guessing the ones I put in pre-fermentation will get vaporized by those kolschies anyway.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other risk is, I have never had this style before, and might simply effing hate it, in which case, I would then have 10 gallons of beer I don't particularly like.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T21:30:09.817" Title="Gose Question for the Gosers (too much salt)" Tags="|extract|adjunct|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-12-21T20:44:11.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;+1 on Simcoes.  A buddy of mine did a Pliny clone with an 12oz hop bomb of simcoes in the bright tank (15 gallon batch) and the hop aroma was beautifully orange-y.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not take a simple grain bill (90% base, 10% caramel), clean yeast (WL California Ale) and split it into 2 or three batches, each with a single varietal and the same schedule (eg 60, 30, 10, 5, dry).  I did a great split batch single-hop series like this with citras and amarillos...got a great feel for both of them and wound up with 4 cases of great APAs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even do this by mashing to a higher-than-desired gravity, then diluting with water to a 6 gallon pre-boil volume (though hop additions/hitting the right IBU's can get tricky in this scenario, make sure you know how to finagle your brewing software).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally try to maximize my time-spent-brewing:beer-made ratio...great way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T20:44:11.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1606" CreationDate="2011-12-21T21:04:59.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As brewchez mentions, whirlpool chilling typically uses an immersion chiller, however you can  whirlpool chill with counterflow and plate chillers also. The principle of recirculating the wort is the same - the wort is pumped into the plate or counterflow chiller and back into the kettle, where it creates a whirlpool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When plate and counterflow chillers are used without recirculating (the &quot;normal&quot; way), the cold break forms in the chiller, and has nowhere to go but end up in the fermentor. By recirculating the wort, the cold break ends up back in the kettle, and a good whirlpool can ensure most of it stays there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An advantage of circulating the wort with these chillers is that each drop of wort is chilled very quickly, typically dropping from near boiling to 75F/23C in the time it takes to pass through the chiller. This is beneficial since a rapid chill forms a good cold break, which helps reduce chill haze. Yet, since the wort is then recycled, the wort is chilled as a whole. Chilling the whole wort rather than a small part of it is beneficial as it reduces production of DMS and locks in more hop aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of rapid chill and whole-wort chilling is unique to whirlpooling with plate chillers and counterflow chillers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T21:04:59.990" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5795" CreationDate="2011-12-21T21:30:09.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this byo article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/beer-styles/article/indices/11-beer-styles/1022-leipziger-gose-style-profile&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; your whithin tolerance. The author says he can tolerate 1/3 cup in 5 gallons. &#xA;I would definitely wait and see before brewing 5 more gallons. Even if you decide to do so later you might want to tweak sourness, spice etc for blending,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T21:30:09.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5770" CreationDate="2011-12-21T21:47:59.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://home.comcast.net/~mzapx1/FAQ/Rehydrate.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Active Dry Yeast looses about 20% of its activity in a year when it is&#xA;  stored at 75 F and only 4% when refrigerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as knowing the viability of dehydrated cells, a number of cells can be lost during rehydration. &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.comcast.net/~mzapx1/FAQ/Rehydrate.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The article&lt;/a&gt; also states that if the rehydration temp is 95-104F, then all viable cells (at the at point) are retained. Using 60F water, as much as 60% are lost. Quite an eye-opener, since I usually pitch the yeast directly into the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T21:47:59.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="510" CreationDate="2011-12-21T22:09:12.550" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use leftover yeast to make pretzels! So good when their warm and the perfect accompaniment to fresh Beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My Recipe:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ingredients&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;* 2 teaspoons salt&#xA;* about 1 Cup of *clean* yeast slurry (Fresh is Best!, but at least warm them up)&#xA;* 22 ounces all-purpose flour, approximately 4 1/2 cups&#xA;* 2 ounces melted butter&#xA;* Egg Wash and Baking Soda for Browning&#xA;* Pretzel salt (It won't melt as much, and it looks way better)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Directions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix flour, butter and yeast together to form a dough ball, knead for 5-10 min.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oil a bowl and drop in dough to rise, let rise (covered) in a warm place. It will double in size in  1-2 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boil 3/4 cup of baking soda into a pan with 2-3 inches of water. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Break the dough into 8 balls and roll out into pretzels, dunk in the baking soda for 30 seconds and transfer to a greased baking sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Egg wash, salt, and bake at 450 until golden brown (10-15 minutes)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Devour with Homebrew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastEditorUserId="1933" LastEditDate="2011-12-22T03:32:40.097" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T03:32:40.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5807" CreationDate="2011-12-22T04:33:54.630" Score="6" ViewCount="4631" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately I've been trying fantastic beers brewed with tart cherries. Where is the best place to source this product? Do I buy as whole fruit, frozen fruit, puree? When and how should I add this product, and what affect will different approaches have on my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T13:01:14.310" Title="How to use Tart Cherries" Tags="|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-22T04:45:31.413" Score="2" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm coding up some personal brewing software, and I'm confused by the explanation of the [Rager Formula][1] &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1]: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realbeer.com/hops/FAQ.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.realbeer.com/hops/FAQ.htm&lt;/a&gt; l&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is meant by the term &quot;boil gravity&quot;, Is that the gravity when the hop addition is made? I get the feeling Rager was testing against the pre-boil gravity..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, can anyone point me towards Ragers original article in zymurgy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T16:31:49.233" Title="Rager Hop Formula Clarification" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5816" CreationDate="2011-12-22T05:06:53.640" Score="9" ViewCount="957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 18&quot; banjo burners on propane. When I'm trying to ramp to boil I have the choice between a shorter all blue flame (which I &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; is the most efficient), A wild all yellow flame that edges around the kettle, and any combination between. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What flame puts out the most BTUs?&#xA;What flame is the most efficient?&#xA;What flame is recommended for this application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T14:12:14.737" Title="What indicates my burner is at the peak performance?" Tags="|process|burner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-22T06:12:00.160" Score="8" ViewCount="706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a packet of koji spores and these instructions: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tibbs-vision.com/sake/instrct.html&quot;&gt;http://www.tibbs-vision.com/sake/instrct.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions call for a 2.6 gal fermenting vessel.  Since I have a 7.9 gal bucket, I am considering brewing a double or triple batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing mead, cider and all-grain beer, and have typical equipment for it (carboys, buckets, hydrometers, bottling equipment, sanitizers, etc.)  How suitable it for sake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any advice, tips or pitfalls to avoid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:47:02.477" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T16:50:22.723" Title="How to get started brewing sake" Tags="|equipment|sake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5780" CreationDate="2011-12-22T07:52:05.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;priming calculator&lt;/a&gt; on tastybrew computes residual CO2 based on the highest temperature that the wort reached during fermentation. By definition, the beer has 1 vol CO2 at this point (the beer is saturated with CO2 at that temperature and pressure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the beer is chilled for serving, the volume of residual CO2 decreases, meaning there is less than one volume of residual CO2 in the served beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.skotrat.com/go/default/brewing-info/priming-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Skotrat&lt;/a&gt; has a nice article that lists volumes of residual CO2 based on fermentation temperature although it's not clear what the reference serving temperature is. Since 60F has 1 vol in the table, then I assume 60F is the serving temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T07:52:05.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5802" CreationDate="2011-12-22T13:01:14.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Type of Fruit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with most flavor related questions...it depends; sorry. There are generally four or five fruit sources: &lt;strong&gt;Fresh Fruit&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Frozen Fruit&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Fruit Puree&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Fruit Juice&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;Fruit Extract&lt;/strong&gt;. Each is going to give you a different flavor, and depending on the fruit flavor you're looking for, one or the other might be the best. The real answer is that you should test all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, going from my experience, I'd narrow it down to &lt;strong&gt;Fresh&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Frozen&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Puree&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Oregon Puree's are very good products and you generally don't need to worry about sanitation. There are probably other puree's out there, too. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fresh fruit is great. I live in Michigan, so I've only done my cherry beer in Cherry Season so I can get the fruit absolutely fresh. If you get Fresh Fruit, I would recommend freezing it before using it to break the cell walls within the fruit which will allow the beer to gain access to sugars and flavors easier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frozen fruit is usually fine, too. It's often frozen very soon after picking, so if you can't get fresh fruit, frozen is the next best thing. For beer you tend to want Tart Cherries, as you mentioned, so you might have to look around to find frozen tart cherries (I've never looked; I don't know how difficult this would be).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't used Cherry extract before. Cherry candy doesn't really taste like Cherry fruit, so I imagine the extract will probably taste like cherry candy instead. I might be wrong; I often am. I think for Cherries you'd really want to use the fruit or puree, but since I haven't actually tried an extract you'll have to tell me. The people I've talked have said that for some fruits, extract is great, and it's super easy (see below). But other extracts aren't complex enough. You'll have to test it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might decide to use a combination, too. You could use fresh fruit for flavor, and extract for some extra aroma (or, maybe it's the other way around...). Experiment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sourcing Fruit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should decide what kind of fruit you'll use first; sourcing the fruit gets easier after that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I believe you should be able to find fruit purees at your homebrew shop; if not, most of the online homebrew shops sell them. You can probably get fruit extract through the same sources.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should be able to get the fresh and frozen fruit at your local grocery store. You'll probably only be able to get fresh cherries in season, but your mileage may vary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to Use the Fruit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said earlier that it depends. It still depends. Look around at other fruit questions on the board and you'll see various methods. That being said, I think there are three popular methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;During the boil&lt;/strong&gt; One of the concerns with fresh fruit is sanitation, so brewers will often add fruit for the last 5-15 minutes of the boil to attempt to sanitize it. It will drive off some aromatics, but it shouldn't be too bad. The Pro to this method is sanitation, the Con is knowing how much fruit to add and giving the yeast too many simple sugars up front; it can make yeast lazy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Secondary&lt;/strong&gt; After the beer finished fermenting, rack it off to a second container on top of the fresh (that you've frozen after purchasing), frozen, or puree'd fruit. This is true secondary fermentation, because the yeast will begin eating fresh sugars. The Pro to this method is that you can periodically taste the beer and rack off when you get the flavors you're looking for. The Con is potential sanitation issues with the fruit and multiple rackings, and the need for more fermentation vessels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dosing before bottling/kegging&lt;/strong&gt; The last method is for the fruit juice or fruit extract. After your beer is done fermenting, take several 2oz samples of beer and dose them with various amounts the juice or extract. When you find the right amount, scale that up to your batch size and you'll have the fruit flavor you want. The Pro to this is complete control over flavor. The Con is depending on a fruit extract.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, I've preferred the secondary method with fresh/frozen/puree'd fruit. Start by brewing a great beer then rack onto cherries and taste periodically until you get the flavor you want. I used 7 pounds of cherries for a 5 gallon stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably have to experiment until you find something you like. Be sure to tell us what you did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T13:01:14.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5804" CreationDate="2011-12-22T14:47:23.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is my understanding that an almost entirely blue flame with a small amount of yellow at the tips is the most effective (separate from most efficient but I believe what you are looking for) for rapid heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T14:47:23.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5713" CreationDate="2011-12-22T15:07:15.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lower temperature will give you clearer beer since it will cause the yeast to drop out quicker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the low temperatures may defeat the purpose of the secondary fermentation - which is really a conditioning phase. The yeast need to be active in order to condition up the beer. The recommended fermentation ranges for US-05 are 59-75F. Some of the yeast will still be active at temperatures lower than 59F,  but I'm not sure they'll still be active down to the high 40's. If the yeast still are active, they will take a much longer time to condition the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the primary only lasts a few (3-5 days) then the beer will need a fair amount of conditioning. You may want to consider keeping the beer at room temp for a week to be sure most of the byproducts have been metabolized. You can then drop the temperature, providing a cold crash to clear the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T15:07:15.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5803" CreationDate="2011-12-22T16:31:49.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently went on a quest to understand hop utilization formulas for a service we're developing (plug: &lt;a href=&quot;http://mybrewco.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mybrewco.com&lt;/a&gt;) . Couldn't find Rager's original article the best was this Zymurgy article in 1997: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scribd.com/doc/47604590/zymurgy-IBUs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.scribd.com/doc/47604590/zymurgy-IBUs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an excellent book by Ray Klimovitz that I found very helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://interactive.asbcnet.org/source/Orders/index.cfm?section=unknown&amp;amp;task=3&amp;amp;CATEGORY=BK04&amp;amp;PRODUCT_TYPE=SALES&amp;amp;SKU=25513&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://interactive.asbcnet.org/source/Orders/index.cfm?section=unknown&amp;amp;task=3&amp;amp;CATEGORY=BK04&amp;amp;PRODUCT_TYPE=SALES&amp;amp;SKU=25513&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a lot that didn't sit well with me once I wrote the code and saw them in action. There are so many factors that impact hop utilization and most of these can't be controlled by the average homebrewer. I wasn't convinced it was worth the effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T16:31:49.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-22T18:12:11.957" Score="1" ViewCount="768" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a week or so away from bottling and I was curious: I have a 2 L growler from a local brewery with one of those EZ-Cap type lids, will it be a good enough vessel to bottle condition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not having to fill an extra ~5 12 oz bottles sounds pretty good to me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Specifically it is this growler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QmLV7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stone Brewery 2L growler&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1922" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T16:43:02.973" Title="&quot;Bottle&quot; conditioning in a growler?" Tags="|bottling|bottle-conditioning|growlers|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5771" CreationDate="2011-12-22T18:22:11.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For whirlpool hops, you don't have to worry about increasing the IBUs since the alpha acids are barely soluble in their natural state, and contribute bitterness only by being continually boiled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For late additions, since these are boiled, then the usual IBU formulae can be used. John Palmer gives &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tinseth's formula and computed values&lt;/a&gt; for a variety of times and SGs. There's also a discussion of the formula from 'Designing Great Beers' by Ray Daniels &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3634/beer-calculators-and-batch-boil-size-with-late-fermentable-additions&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on HB stackexchange. For additions less than 10 minutes, 0.06 utilization is assumed. (The link gives the formula so you can compensate also for gravity if above 1.050.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as the OP mentions, none of the formulae are accurate. They are best used as a rough guide, which you then refine by inspection of the final result, and adjusting the amount of late additions accordingly. One thing to bear in mind is that it's believed that utilization decreases as more hop mass is added, but the current formulae don't take this into account. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hop Bittering Calculations&lt;/a&gt;, ch. 5, &quot;How to Brew&quot;, John Palmer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3634/beer-calculators-and-batch-boil-size-with-late-fermentable-additions&quot;&gt;Beer calculators and batch/boil size with late fermentable additions&lt;/a&gt;, Homebrew Stackexchange&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T18:22:11.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1668" CreationDate="2011-12-22T18:43:53.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you are confident that the growler can handle the pressure (as a growler i would suspect it is designed to hold pressure), there is noreason you couldn't naturally carbonare in the growler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T18:43:53.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1668" CreationDate="2011-12-22T18:50:35.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say since growlers can be made very strongly and more thinly for just carrying final product from a keg to several thirsty mouths.  Most growlers with straight sides are not designed to hold the pressure of natural carbonation - especially if they have suffered some wear and shocks over time.  I've had one explode on me with just beer in it, and others have had similar issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DAo45.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;failed growler&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some 2 liter growlers are quite sturdy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QmLV7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stone brewery growler&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are prepared to contain a filled growler with a pan or bucket, or OK with clean up if the growler fails, you can find glass that is sturdy enough for bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T17:12:28.303" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T17:12:28.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5804" CreationDate="2011-12-22T23:51:22.953" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want a blue flame, and one that is not pushed away from the burner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Propane can burn when the ratio of propane to air is in the range 2.2-9.6%. Within this range lies the ideal ratio where fuel to air are properly balanced and the fuel burns with a blue flame and the flame temperature is at it's hottest - 3600F/1990C. The blue flame is characteristic of complete combustion - all the fuel is being consumed in the reaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The burner will still operate at other, non-ideal ratios within the range above, but combustion will be incomplete, and consequently less efficient. A lean burn is where there is too little oxygen - this is shown by the flames moving away/lifting up from the burner, or maybe even going out. A rich burn is where there is too much oxygen, characterized by larger yellow flames. In both cases, the flames are cooler, and combustion is incomplete since less than 100% of the fuel is being consumed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does incomplete combustion release less energy?&#xA;Propane is a hydrocarbon - energy is released by breaking the bonds between hydrogen and carbon atoms and bonding them with oxygen to form CO2 and water. The bonding with oxygen releases more energy than was required to break apart the original bonds. With incomplete combustion, some carbon atoms bond with only one oxygen atom, producing CO - carbon monoxide. As well as the hazard from toxic gas, less energy is released since fewer C-O bonds are made. At even lower efficiencies, the carbon does not bond with any oxygen at all and is visible as soot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-complete-combustion.htm&quot;&gt;complete combustion&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.propanecarbs.com/propane.html&quot;&gt;propane facts and comparison&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Combustion#Incomplete&quot;&gt;Combustion, Incomplete&lt;/a&gt; - Wikipedia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2011-12-23T14:12:14.737" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T14:12:14.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1958" CreationDate="2011-12-23T13:48:17.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not a bad idea to check the material's resistance to heat and how it reacts but we are not talking about boiling the bag. Most people mash around 150 F and maybe do a mashout to 170 F so the bag will never reach 212 F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1948" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T13:48:17.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18319" CreationDate="2011-12-24T18:20:18.030" Score="9" ViewCount="6957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking around trying to find anywhere that can print low-volume (50-100) runs of custom crown caps.  Found loads of US sites but nothing in the UK.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3409/where-can-i-get-printed-crown-caps&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question but specifically for the UK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1952" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T12:59:00.590" Title="Where can I get custom crown caps in the UK?" Tags="|capping|caps|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5805" CreationDate="2011-12-26T19:53:47.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the info you need is at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewsake.com/home/recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://homebrewsake.com/home/recipe/&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another outstanding site for sake brewing is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.taylor-madeak.org/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.taylor-madeak.org/index.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both sites have recipes and step by step procedures for commercial quality sake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1956" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T19:53:47.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-27T14:49:01.910" Score="10" ViewCount="1374" Body="&lt;p&gt;great site. I am a total newbie at brewing (used a Mr. Beer kit a few times with success), and recently got a 2 tier homebrewing system for Christmas. I got a prepackaged &quot;American Amber Ale&quot; kit as well as I didn't want to run straight to my own recipes, I wanted to walk slowly and learn the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am confused. The kit came with Dry Caramel malts (you have to steep in a bag first), then it came with a liquid malt extract, and a dry malt extract. You have to use all three of these, plus two types of hops to create the wort. My question is, why all three types of malt? Is that for flavor/color/etc? In basic brewing isnt it true that you simply need a grain, hops, and yeast? obviously that would be the simplest of simple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this is too easy of a question, I am just starting out. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1957" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:43:46.560" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:43:46.560" Title="Confused by malts!" Tags="|ingredients|malt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5821" CreationDate="2011-12-27T16:12:59.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The liquid and dry malt extracts are your main sources of sugar for the yeast to eat and turn into alcohol.  They're made from grain (the way all-grain brewers do it), then deyhdrated/concentrated into a liquid or powder form.  They can also add flavor and color, which may be why you have both dry and liquid forms.  The liquid may be an amber extract, and the dry just for sugar content (a guess).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caramel malt is considered a &lt;strong&gt;specialty grain&lt;/strong&gt;.  By steeping the grain in hot water, you release starches from the grain (assuming the grain is crushed to release the endosperm from the husk), as well as extract flavor and color from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a full all-grain mash, these starches are converted to sugars by enzymes.  However when steeping just your crystal malt, it lacks the &quot;diastatic power&quot; (the ability of the grain's enzymes to convert starches to fermentable sugars) to fully convert the starch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature of the mash also affects this conversion, and a steep will not usually hold optimum temperatures like an all-grain mash would.  Most steeping instructions I've seen call for bringing the water to a boil, shutting off the heat and dropping the grain bag in to steep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So those factors, combined with the fact that the kit probably only has a small amount of grain, is why I originally said the crystal malt would add no fermentable sugars.  I should have said they would &lt;strong&gt;not contribute significantly&lt;/strong&gt; to the fermentable sugar content, to be more precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;re-edit&lt;/strong&gt; for clarity, with thanks to &lt;strong&gt;Denny&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;baka&lt;/strong&gt; for good info and links in the comments: caramel malts undergo a process that converts some of its starches into sugars, so even during a steep without any other grains, those sugars will be dissolved into the wort, and some of those sugars are fermentable.  My text above stands for other specialty grains that don't have the diastatic power to convert their own starches, so I will leave the answer as-is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2011-12-28T18:17:14.947" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T18:17:14.947" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5821" CreationDate="2011-12-27T16:15:03.990" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing is a lot like cooking. Sometimes your recipe calls for a very simple collection of ingredients (think good Italian food). These types of recipes can call for just 1 or 2 malts, and can be quite delicious. Pilsners, Munich Dunkels, Scotch Ales, some British Ales, simple Belgians, Wheats and more are all styles that can be made with a single type of malt each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But sometimes in cooking, and brewing, you need to pull together multiple ingredients to make a unique flavor. Think a fancy French dish with a rich sauce. Ambers, Brown Ales, Belgian Dubbels, Stouts, Porters, Red Ales and more are all styles that require a combination of malts to achieve their taste. It is impossible to create winning examples of these styles with just a single type of malt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific example, an &quot;American Amber&quot; beer will require a few types of malts. You have both liquid and dry extract (you didn't specify the color) probably just used in combination to achieve the proper gravity required. This is pretty common in extract recipes. Also, you have some caramel malt to steep, mainly because Amber beers are best described as having a &quot;caramel sweetness,&quot; which is best achieved thru the use of Caramel, or &quot;Crystal&quot; malt, in addition to the base malt used to provide the base beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that extract, especially &quot;Amber&quot; or darker, is a mix of several types of malts anyway. A &quot;base&quot; malt used to derive most of the fermentables and the basic flavor, plus a Dextrin malt for body and some crystal malts for body/sweetness/flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T16:15:03.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5821" CreationDate="2011-12-27T16:41:24.483" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, dry malt extract is included to make up for liquid malt extract that isn't included.  In other words, LME (liquid malt extract) generally comes prepackaged in 3.3 lb. containers.  That's great if the amount of malt you need is in multiples of 3.3 lb., but that generally doesn't happen.  The DME (dry malt extract) is included to provide the additional malt fermentables needed for the recipe.  Both the LME and DME can b e thought of as the &quot;base&quot; of your beer.  You then add flavors to that with the caramel (or other &quot;specialty&quot; malts) to create the beer you're going for.  For more info, please see John Palmer's excellent online book &quot;How to Brew&quot;.  www.howtobrew.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T16:41:24.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5830" CreationDate="2011-12-28T13:06:17.490" Score="4" ViewCount="20999" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family was very nice to me this Christmas and I got a bayou classic burner and an 32qt. pot with 2 ports and a bazooka screen as well as an immersion chiller.  I had built a 10 gallon mash tun over the summer (I was doing partial mashes for the last couple batches) so now I am ready for  all grain full boil 5 gallon batches.  Only thing is I have never done this before (can't wait though) so I don't know the efficiency of the system.  I picked my first recipe, my fiance loves the rogue hazelnut nectar so I am going to attempt to duplicate that as best I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this, when do you measure the OG to determine if you have missed your mark?  I purchased my ingredients along with 1 lb. of Light DME.  I only need about 1 cup of that for my starter so I figure if I miss my OG I could use the rest of that to hopefully get to where I need to be.  So, when would I measure the gravity of the wort to determine if I need to add the DME?  Do I check it immediately after the I have sparged (pre-boil) or do I check after the full boil and hop additions?  If the later is the case obviously I would need to boil a small 'wort' for the dme so how would I calculate how much I would need to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW: here is the recipe I think I am going to be using (any suggestions are also welcome): &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewershub.com/recipes/rogue-hazelnut-brown-nectar-clone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brewershub.com/recipes/rogue-hazelnut-brown-nectar-clone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Totally psyched for all grain brewing (or 95% grain brewing if I need this DME after missing my mark)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T19:45:49.713" Title="When to add DME if you miss your starting OG?" Tags="|all-grain|original-gravity|dme|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5825" CreationDate="2011-12-28T14:09:19.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The starting OG is what goes into the fermentor - what the yeast get their hands on. It's simplest to take a hydrometer/refractometer sample after the boil and the wort chilled, either from the kettle or directly from the fermentor before pitching the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you discover you missed your target OG, then pull a slightly larger sample of wort (say a pint), and use that to boil up the DME needed to reach target OG. Add this back to the kettle or fermentor, and stir with a stanitized utensil and take a gravity measurement again. The stirring is necessary to ensure that the newly introduced sugars from the DME are distributed uniformly throughout the wort - without stirring, the boiled DME will collect at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use water rather than wort to boil the DME, but then you are diluting the wort slightly, so you have to add more DME than just what you need to hit target when boiling it in wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always when working with post-boil wort (taking samples and stirring), use sanitary procedures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2011-12-28T15:58:10.183" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T15:58:10.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5825" CreationDate="2011-12-28T15:53:51.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to measure your gravity at least twice -- once at the start of the boil, and again at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring your pre-boil gravity will let you know if you've extracted too little (or too much) sugar from your mash. Then you can adjust with DME or water to get your pre-boil gravity right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting your gravity at the start of the boil is nice because then your hop extraction should be the same. At least one IBU formula uses the gravity of the wort as a factor in determining hop extraction (although some people now think that wort gravity is not a very big factor in hop extraction rates).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring your post-boil gravity will give you the wort's OG, so that's obviously useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To figure out what your pre-boil gravity should be, use this formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expected OG * (1 - percent of wort lost to evaporation) =  pre boil gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, on my burner I evaporate about 10% per hour. So if I boil for 1 hour, I expect to lose 10% of my wort to evaporation. If I'm making a beer with an expected OG of 1.060 then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60 * (1 - .10) = 54&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my pre-boil gravity should be 1.054.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I boil for 90 minutes, my evaporation rate will be 15%, so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60 * (1 - .15) = 51&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T15:53:51.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5828" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-28T18:08:53.923" Score="6" ViewCount="31538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 6 pack of Shiner Blonde, and just loved the taste of it. What differentiates a blonde beer from others, other than a lighter color and flavor? Also, how do you make a blonde, and does anyone have any great recipes to experiment with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1957" LastEditorUserId="240" LastEditDate="2012-01-26T06:46:36.987" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T06:46:36.987" Title="What is a &quot;blonde&quot; beer, and how do you make it?" Tags="|recipe|process|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5828" CreationDate="2011-12-28T18:31:52.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beertutor.com/styles/lager_styles.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.beertutor.com/styles/lager_styles.shtml&lt;/a&gt; lists Shiner Blonde as a Pilsner, I would generally agree with that except I believe it runs rather low on the hop scale. As mentioned elsewhere the BJCP Lists blondes as ales rather than lagers. It's not uncommon for commercial brewers to step outside of style guidelines so I feel it's worth mentioning the BJCP Style but not worth retracting what I was able to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elsewhere &quot;The Internet&quot; lists a recipe of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;5.0 Gallon Batch, OG 1.044, 13 IBU&#xA;&#xA;7.0# Pale 2-row malt&#xA;1.0# Flaked Corn&#xA;&#xA;3/4oz Czech Saaz Hops @ 60 min&#xA;1/4oz Czech Saaz Hops @ 15 min&#xA;&#xA;Ferment with WLP 800 or 802 at 50-55F for 3-4 weeks, &#xA;then lager at 35F for 4-6 weeks.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastEditorUserId="1737" LastEditDate="2011-12-28T22:26:34.790" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T22:26:34.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5825" CreationDate="2011-12-28T19:45:49.713" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measuring the OG post boil isn't the right place because if its off, how do you fix it?  You'll have to calculate how much you are off and what amount of DME to add, all the while the wort is sitting hot, but cooling.  The hop profile will be changing slightly as it sits hot.  If you add the DME at this point you'd have to stir it to get the DME well mixed, this encourages some hot oxidation potentially.  And you may be tempted to boil some more because of sanitiation concerns with your spoon and the unboiled DME going in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to adjust for a missed gravity is to do it after all the wort is collected and you are waiting for things to come to a boil.  This is where knowing your collected volume to within a quart or so is important.  Take a hydrometer reading and figure out the total gravity points you have collected.  (For example you collect 6.5 gallons of 1.050 wort that's 325 gravity points, 6.5*50)  IF your recipe was formulated for a 5.5 gallon final kettle volume at 1.063 you needed 350 points (5.5*63)  Subtracting 325 from 350 means you came up 25 points short.  DME is ~45 ppg so 25/45=is ~0.55lbs.  You would add the 0.55lbs of DME to the kettle and you should be in good shape towards hitting the original target of 1.063.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side not hitting that target OG is also dependent on dialing in your boil efficiency.   In my example I am assuming a one gallon boil off.  But that might not be your evap rate due to elevation, relative humidity and pot geometry...blah blah blah.  I suppose that adding DME post boil is a work around not knowing your boil off rate, but I think the other issues doing it post boil are more nerve racking to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T19:45:49.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="806" CreationDate="2011-12-28T20:31:38.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bet you added more dextrose or malt then the recipe called for and your beer stopped fermenting because it reached its max ABV for the yeast you used. certain yeasts die at a max AVB and to continue fermenting you must usedifferent yeast such a champagne yeast to obtain higher AVB...made that mistake myself early on and ended up with sweet malty beer that would not carbinate sufficiantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1971" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T20:31:38.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5828" CreationDate="2011-12-28T20:43:06.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A blonde beer is almost always an ale, while a pilsner is always a lager.  You can read the BJCP definition of a blonde here...&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style06.php#1b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style06.php#1b&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2011-12-28T23:13:19.077" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T23:13:19.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5828" CreationDate="2011-12-28T20:53:27.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a quick glance, a blonde can look like a pils. To distinguish, a blonde has these characteristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is usually a light color, but not always as light as a pils, often a deeper golden color. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is made with top-cropping yeast (ale yeast) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's sweeter/fruitier than a pils, with taste balanced on side of the malt (cf. pils which can be quite highly hopped in some instances.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is meant to give you an impression of the beer - the BJCP can give you the vital statistics for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style06.php#1b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blonde Ale&lt;/a&gt; in figures.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to recipes, it's often mostly pils/lager/pale malt, often with a touch of light/medium crystal or lightly kilned malts such as munich. Low hop bitterness and with a water profile with 50-150ppm chlorides to accentuate the malt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2011-12-30T09:28:06.590" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T09:28:06.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="806" CreationDate="2011-12-28T21:09:01.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, posting the recipe and hydrometer readings (starting gravity and terminal gravity) would be very useful for a diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also going to make the assumption, since you didn't stipulate otherwise, that your beer carbonated in the bottle, which indicates that the yeast is still active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of a few reasons why the beer tastes too sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You're used to drinking mass produced beer, which finishes very dry. What was the final gravity? Knowing this wold help.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The recipe included a lot of un-fermentable sugars which contribute sweetness to the final product. Usually this comes from a high (&gt;15%) proportion of crystal malts, or a high (&gt;155 F) mashing temperature. Knowing the recipe would help determine if this was the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The yeast you used was low attenuation, high flocculation yeast. These strains (like WYeast British Ale) tend to drop out of the beer before all the sugars are consumed, yielding a sweeter final product. Do you know what yeast you used and what it was rated at for attenuation?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You bottled too soon. The yeast was still actively fermenting the residual sugars and given more time would have dried the beer out. What was the gravity when you bottled? What was the expected terminal gravity? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T21:09:01.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5828" CreationDate="2011-12-28T21:44:01.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Denny already linked you to the BJCP style guide, but I realized my comment actually answers half your question, so I've put it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to one of my favorite house beers: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f66/centennial-blonde-simple-4-all-grain-5-10-gall-42841/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Biermuncher's Centennial Blonde&lt;/a&gt;.  It's inexpensive to brew, quick to mature and is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; a crowd pleaser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T21:44:01.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5447" CreationDate="2011-12-29T01:30:34.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agave nectar is a heat processed root-starch that isn't all that different from HFCS. There's a fair bit of discussion about it's healthy credentials.  It's not the same as what's used to make tequila which is made from the juiced leaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said I bet it'll ferment just fine.  It'll probably offer a slightly different profile than honey does, but if you're flavoring your mead it might not be that different at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used agave in relatively small quantities in wine before without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.  I'm sure we'd all love to know how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1973" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T01:30:34.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-29T10:23:57.117" Score="9" ViewCount="12702" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it's that time of year where none of the local shops are open (at least in my area) and I am itching to put on a new brew but haven't got any sanitiser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought some Napisan (I believe AKA OxiClean - sodium percarbonate for washing clothes) might be useable but my &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/555/can-oxiclean-be-used-as-a-sanitizer&quot;&gt;research shows otherwise&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I find around the home that I can use to sanitise my gear?  It's mostly plastic so I don't think I can use heat treatment.  I usually use no-rinse but I doubt I'll have that luxury!  If applicable, what steps will I need to take to treat after sanitisation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T04:20:14.860" Title="Homebrew sanitisation in a Pinch" Tags="|sanitation|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5837" CreationDate="2011-12-29T14:23:42.267" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is probably Bleach. Here's the excerpt from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter2-2-3.html&quot;&gt;How To Brew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The cheapest and most readily available sanitizing solution is made by&#xA;  adding 1 tablespoon of bleach to 1 gallon of water (4 ml per liter).&#xA;  Let the items soak for 20 minutes, and then drain. Rinsing is&#xA;  supposedly not necessary at this concentration, but many brewers,&#xA;  myself included, rinse with some boiled water anyway to be sure of no&#xA;  off-flavors from the chlorine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T14:23:42.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5837" CreationDate="2011-12-29T14:42:27.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used it myself, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Homemade_No_Rinse_Sanitizer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here is a recipe&lt;/a&gt; for homemade no-rinse sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to note the recipe comes from Charlie Talley of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fivestarchemicals.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;5-Star Chemicals&lt;/a&gt;, who produce the commercial no-rinse sanitizer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/breweries/homebrewing/products/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Star-San&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety note&lt;/strong&gt;: this recipe uses both vinegar and bleach.  Mixing them directly together can produce chlorine gas, which can kill you.  The recipe specifically notes to &lt;strong&gt;dilute the 1oz of vinegar in 5 gallons of water first&lt;/strong&gt; before adding the 1oz of bleach.  This high dilution and indirect mixing prevents that problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-01-09T14:17:32.367" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T14:17:32.367" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1023" CreationDate="2011-12-29T15:27:20.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for when/how much to add, it depends on the recipe and what you're going for.  In my ginger ale, for example, I add some ginger to the boil and some to the primary/secondary, so I get a combination of the ginger-y heat and bite, along with the aroma and flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for sanitation, adding at the last few minutes of the boil will effectively sanitize anything.  When adding to the primary/secondary, I will use a variety of methods depending on what I'm sanitizing and my mood that day:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil the addition in some water for a few minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's something I don't want to boil (because it might bitter or ruin the flavor), hold them in some water at a high temperature (180ish) for some time - i.e. pasteurize them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak the item in high-proof spirits, then add the spirits and all to the fermenter.  This is the route I usually take with oak chips/cubes.  I find bourbon is great for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably go the pasteurization route for orange zest.  For things like powdered spices and chocolate, I usually just toss them right in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for nutmeg, I would definitely grate it before adding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T15:27:20.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-29T18:30:53.410" Score="3" ViewCount="1727" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok. Day three into brewing my first ever batch of brew. It is an American Amber Ale from a kit. Moved it to the glass carboy and its been in there for 3 days. It bubbled like crazy the first two days and created a crazy thick brown head, but now it bubbles about once every 5-10 min and the head has died. But it left behind this thick crust of caramel colored crust on the in sides of the carboy. Is this normal? Should I gently swirl the brew to get that crust back into the liquid, or just leave it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total newbie question, but it worried me this morning for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1957" LastEditorUserId="88" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T20:34:06.880" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:34:06.880" Title="Crust on inside of Fermentor?" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5842" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-29T18:33:19.293" Score="3" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 4 beers I need to transport (I'm moving), 3 of which are currently aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of them is currently on tap.  I don't think I'll worry too much about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other three are wild ales, one is kegged, the other two in carboys, each with about 1 year of age.  I'm worried about the effects of splashing, specifically contamination and oxygenation, does anybody have any experience doing this?  I'm also worried that disrupting the pellicule will cause issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2 beers in carboys are pretty sour, but low alcohol, I'm planning of adding some dark malt extract and repitching some ale yeast to bring up the body and abv, so I'm thinking I can possibly suck up some of the oxygenation with refermenting.  Also I know some bugs actually like oxygen, so maybe they'll help too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1 kegged beer is already carbonated - I've been having a glass every month or so to see how the flavor changes over time, could transport be a non-issue with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T18:15:48.753" Title="Transporting fermenting beer" Tags="|wild-yeast|transport|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5841" CreationDate="2011-12-29T18:42:18.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Completely normal. This is left over crud from the krausen that forms during active fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just go ahead ad leave it, that's stuff that would just settle to the bottom and soak up beer.  When you rack off the yeast and such at the bottom of the carboy you'll simply have ever so slightly less at the bottom absorbing beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely not something to be worried about and is actually a very good sign that your fermentation is going well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would look for is signs of odd colors (I've had black splotches or exceptionally dark crust on the carboy that was due to an infection). I doubt this is an issue in this case sense you mentioned it is vaguely caramel colored which is likely a good sign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T18:42:18.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5841" CreationDate="2011-12-29T18:48:24.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leave it alone.  It's perfectly normal.  It's the krausen ring, and is just dried proteins, hop bits and other solids from your wort.  There's no reason to get it back in solution, and in fact you probably wouldn't be able to if you tried.  Krausen rings are notoriously hard to clean :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T18:48:24.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5842" CreationDate="2011-12-29T19:01:58.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no need for oxygen concerns if the beers are in sealed containers with airlocks.  The fermentation pushed out the Oxygen a long time ago and any residual CO2 in the beer will likely push out any more O2 if that wasn't the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T19:01:58.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5837" CreationDate="2011-12-29T19:08:49.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use iodine; it should be available at the drugstore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dilute 1 tablespoon in 5 gallons and you've got a no-rinse sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1978" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-12-31T04:23:27.760" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T04:23:27.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5848" CreationDate="2011-12-29T20:28:45.800" Score="2" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I followed Jamil's Kolsch recipe to the letter but pitched WLP 833 into my carboy thinking it was a Kolsch yeast. I found out that it's actually a different German yeast strain. Will this still be a good Kolsch or do I have to call it something else now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T22:59:38.703" Title="Is my Kolsch still a Kolsch if I used the wrong yeast?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5847" CreationDate="2011-12-29T21:25:19.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are a homebrewer.  You can call it whatever you want.  Will it taste like a kolsch?  Might not have some of the soft bread notes that WLP029 (Kolsch/German Ale).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure you have a very nice helles bock on your hands potentially.  If you fermentation was spot on I am sure its great on way or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure some brewing purists would tell you that even if you pitched WLP029 it still wouldn't be a kolsch because it wasn't brewed in Cologne Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T21:25:19.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-29T22:37:28.817" Score="2" ViewCount="869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an all-grain brewer but I haven't done an extract batch in years (or an all-grain one in over a year) and want to do an extract IPA this week. Looking at the various software and calculators, they don't seem to account for partial boils, just final batch size. I want to boil at about 50% volume, then top off with cold water. How do people calculate this in advance? I was hoping for something other than the hash-marked measuring stick method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any calculators or software that account for partial boils and give you total water needs up front? Oh, and god forbid, include temps (flameout wort plus refrigerated distilled water = ?°F). I like my final wort right at 65°F, ready for dumping into the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always found Beersmith's water calculator to be non-intuitive by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1980" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T13:09:13.223" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T13:09:13.223" Title="Calculating boil volume in partial boil?" Tags="|water|calculations|software|partial-boil|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5847" CreationDate="2011-12-29T22:59:38.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it tastes like a kolsch, it is a kolsch.  Well, technically is only REALLY a kolsch if it's brewed in Koln, but what the hey.  Using 833, though, it won't really taste like a kolsch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T22:59:38.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3835" CreationDate="2011-12-29T23:14:24.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is true that a hydrometer reading is likely the best way to tell.  If you don't have a hydrometer wait till the yeast sediments to the bottom.  Then it is wise to transfer to a secondary fermenter, which it sounds like you are not doing.  Then wait till the yeast sediments out again and typically that is a great time to bottle.  Another nice thing about putting the beer into secondary is that you can typically leave it there for 6 months and not have a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words without a hydrometer and if you are unsure rack to secondary and let it sit until you are sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T23:14:24.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5849" CreationDate="2011-12-30T15:17:16.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measuring the water in your boil is completely based on the vessel itself.  The marked stick works great, sight-tubes are wonderful, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can determine your actual pre and post boil volumes as you said, by simply going with 50% volumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end water in the fermenter will be the weighted average temperature of the water added.  i.e. If you have 2.5 gallons of water at 100F and 2.5 gallons of water at 50F your resulting temperature after mixing will be 75F. Simply setup your equation and solve for the necessary top up temperature. You could also whip up a pretty simple excel spreadsheet to contain this formula for usage on brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T15:17:16.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2011-12-30T15:18:17.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;GotMead.com has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gotmead.com/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;task=view&amp;amp;id=424&amp;amp;Itemid=14&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;equipment section&lt;/a&gt; in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gotmead.com/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;task=view&amp;amp;id=27&amp;amp;Itemid=14&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;newbee guide&lt;/a&gt; to making mead.  This guide &#xA; is a fantastic crash course for beginners, and a good refresher for most.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few items listed in their equipment section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Primary Fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secondary Fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Siphon Hose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Airlock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rubber Stoppers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanitizer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hydrometer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a few other essentials...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the link for a full list &amp;amp; explanation of why each is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T15:18:17.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5855" CreationDate="2011-12-30T18:17:57.197" Score="4" ViewCount="2144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some minor blow-off enter (and exit) my airlock during the most active part of fermentation. The krausen has since gone down significantly, and there is no worry of the airlock getting clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vodka, however, has turned a light brown due to the blow-off that entered the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be worried about this? Should I remove, resanitize, and refill the airlock? Or is the trade-off of introducing oxygen into the carboy while doing this a greater concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1902" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T21:16:59.450" Title="Airlock re-sanitization after minor blow-off" Tags="|sanitation|airlock|blow-off|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5854" CreationDate="2011-12-30T18:43:49.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Introducing oxygen is not a concern at all at this point.  That's a bogeyman that's way exaggerated.  You could probably leave it without problems, but I like to remove it and clean it when that happens to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T18:43:49.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2011-12-30T19:18:07.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe try brewing a rye saison with citra hops, berliner weiss, helles bock, or kölsch and for an interesting twist, dry hop with citra or amarillo or summit hops (these hops have tropical fruity aromas)... hopefully that would be an interesting enough beer for her to enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-12-31T04:07:03.927" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T04:07:03.927" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T14:17:24.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1358" CreationDate="2011-12-30T19:55:13.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go for something that isn't too complex. A simple brown ale or amber ale would be good. The reason I suggest that instead of pilsner is because the majority of new homebrewers start out with extract kits. They tend to darken in the boil and brown or amber ales are a nice way for them to get comfortable with brewing without worrying too much about color. If they start out with all grain, a pilsner or simple american ale would work well in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T19:55:13.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5854" CreationDate="2011-12-30T20:00:21.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Introducing oxygen is nothing to be concerned about at this point. I'd say its safe to go ahead and clean it. Just make sure to sanitize it and anything else you touch that interfaces with the carboy, before you put it back. Some people recommend spraying sanitizer on the mouth of the carboy too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T20:00:21.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1413" CreationDate="2011-12-30T20:04:44.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The suggested fermenting temperatures really are to create optimal conditions for the yeast to thrive in your fermenter. I usually let the gravity ferment out first before racking to secondary where it basically conditions. When racking, I leave much of the yeast sediment in the primary because it has done its job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T20:04:44.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-30T21:27:52.483" Score="3" ViewCount="2219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've searched around, but I still would like an elaborate review on the difference in taste between these two base malts.  Only interested in North American varieties, also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what &quot;grainy&quot; tasting means, either.  Is that generally looked on as good or bad?  I've read Pilsner is more &quot;grainy&quot; tasting, is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one is more malty?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one is more &quot;clean&quot; tasting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I substitute Pilsner for APA, Blonde, and American Wheat beers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get away with 20 minute AG boils with 2 Row.  No DMS, full hop utilization (you simply boil hops for 2-3 minutes separately in a pint of water, then dump into wort after hot break).  So, will I not be able to get away with boiling Pilsner for only 20 minutes because of the DMS issues?  Like I said, no DMS with 20 minute 2 Row boils.  Awesome beer, too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2011-12-31T15:40:22.653" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T19:08:32.620" Title="Pilsner vs 2 Row" Tags="|beer|all-grain|base-malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5828" CreationDate="2011-12-30T22:54:44.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple and awesome way to make a Blonde is to use the SMASH method (Single Malt And Single Hop).  I think a Blonde should be simple and easy to drink.  So your Grain Bill would be 100% 2 Row and a good neutral-type hop.  My favorite is Sterling. Keep the IBUs at around 18-25 approximately.   Matter of fact, I use only two hops for every different type of brew, at the moment.  I use Sterling for Blondes and American Wheat, and Cascade for American Pale Ales.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blonde Ale and APA are my two favorite beers in the world!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2011-12-31T04:05:26.253" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T04:05:26.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5860" CreationDate="2011-12-31T02:46:11.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 row is a variety of barley grain, as distinguished from 6 row. Pilsner malt refers to the killing process applied to the grain. To make things confusing, some maltsters market a &quot;2 row&quot; product. In my experince, this is a more generic malt than what is sold as &quot;pale malt&quot; or &quot;pilsner malt&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visit your maltster's website to see the quantitative differences between malts. I get my Pilsner malt from Canada Malting. Compared to the malt they sell as &quot;2 row&quot;, the Pilsner malt is paler and lower in protein.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://canadamalting.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/TypicalMaltAnalysis.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://canadamalting.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/TypicalMaltAnalysis.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T02:46:11.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="80" CreationDate="2011-12-31T02:59:11.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you measure the starting gravity? Could be too much sugar and not enough water is creating a difficult environment for the yeast to get going. Otherwise you might consider aeration/oxygenation and adding a yeast nutrient to give the yeast a fighting chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T02:59:11.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5727" CreationDate="2011-12-31T03:27:49.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be DMS (dimehtyl sulfide), though it's usually describe as smelling like cooked corn or seafood, not cook meat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can avoid DMS by boiling hard, and cooling quickly. In particular you want to get the wort below 140 F. as quickly as possible. DMS is being creating above this temperature. During the boil, it is driven off as quickly as its created, but not while chilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T03:27:49.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="349" CreationDate="2011-12-31T04:49:09.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are Go / No-go guages that are used in industry for online checks to ensure a  tight crimp on a crown. Failing this immerssion on a a water bath will quickly show if you have leakers. The folks who make the crowns will provide the data on what a tight crimp should be. hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1943" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T04:49:09.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-31T18:26:48.250" Score="2" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to begin studying for the BJCP exam.&#xA;I was looking into some study materials, and could use some direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of Purchasing Michael Jacksons Beer Companion, the first edition is 80$ cheaper and I was wondering if it was essential I buy the 2nd revised edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, what references would you recommend and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T00:24:59.530" Title="BJCP Study Material" Tags="|bjcp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-31T20:35:43.033" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5837" CreationDate="2011-12-31T19:02:59.863" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use oxiclean to clean, with a thorough rinse (usually 2 or 3). then Star San to sanitize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T19:02:59.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5860" CreationDate="2011-12-31T19:08:32.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find a mildly-hopped pale ale recipe that you like, and make one batch with pilsner as the base, and one with pale 2-row as the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flavor descriptions can be useful, but nothing beats letting your own taste buds tell you the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T19:08:32.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5727" CreationDate="2011-12-31T23:53:20.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your closed question of your brewing practices, I'd say you should:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil hard for at least 60 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chill more quickly and for sure don't wait until the next day to pitch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt it's the bucket or tubes leaching plastic flavors, especially if at times it's detectable, and other times not.  It sounds like your practices with tubes should be sufficient to keep anything from growing in them, but they are cheap...throw 'em out and get new.  And hang 'em straight (not coiled), and where UV can hit 'em.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T23:53:20.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5867" CreationDate="2012-01-01T00:24:59.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I seriously doubt that the differences between revisions of Jackson's book would be worth worrying about (four years difference).  Don't forget about half.com, you can save a lot of money on books. I'm seeing $0.75 + shipping on the 1993 book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Half of the exam material highlights the technical aspects of brewing, troubleshooting, and preventing process problems.  The other half focuses on style guidelines and tasting/judging beer. The technical, trouble-shooting, and process questions are more easy to prepare for; every possible question is given in advance in the study guide, so the exam is about as &quot;open book&quot; as a &quot;closed book&quot; exam can be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Exam Study Guide documents are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/examcenter.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;available here&lt;/a&gt;.  These study guide docs are packed with useful information for brewers of all levels, so even if you're not studying for the BJCP, it's worth a look.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T00:24:59.530" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-01T00:24:59.530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="189" CreationDate="2012-01-01T11:03:11.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coopers does a range of very cost effective PET bottles in brown (http://secure.coopers.com.au/shop-diy/bottles-caps/).  I've had good results using these and various soda bottles including cola bottles.  To avoid light getting in I place the bottles in a cardboard box which would also regulate the temp a bit better and catch any mess if a bottle pops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is a great idea but I also squeeze the bottles to get all the air out before putting the cap on.  This refills with gas from the bottle fermentation.  Doesn't seem to harm either way though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would avoid using bottles over 1 litre though as your second and third glasses from these bottles tend to cloud up as sediment is bubbled up from the bottle bottom as the pressure is released.  A trick I use to avoid this is to decant into a pitcher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1807" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T11:03:11.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5842" CreationDate="2012-01-01T18:12:48.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that you've opened the vessels, there is almost certainly going to be oxygen in there. I would move after re-starting fermentation so that can help absorb any oxygen or displace through active CO2 production. That way you can be sure any motion doesn't negatively affect the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you hadn't opened the ferementors, I'd still be careful. Although most of the oxygen is purged during fermentation, some will re-enter if there are high to low temperature fluctuations or changes from low to high atmospheric pressure - both of these events can cause air to be sucked in through the airlock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can transport your carbonated kegged beer if you purged the keg before filling it. The only issue there might be rousing any sediment, making the beer cloudy. Cold crash the keg at your new place for a couple of days and it should clear quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T18:12:48.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5842" CreationDate="2012-01-01T18:15:48.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the agitation of moving them will release CO2 that's in solution in the beer now.  I wouldn't worry at all about moving them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T18:15:48.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="189" CreationDate="2012-01-03T04:29:41.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're serious about your brewing, I'd recommend you don't use PET bottles at all:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Commercial soda bottles are thin walled, and will deteriorate over time in sunlight, or with any sort of heat treatment, whereas glass bottles can be washed in your dishwasher.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clear colored PET will allow your beer to suffer from &quot;light-strike&quot;, producing unsavory flavors and aromas to develop in your beers, even if you are careful about keeping your bottles in a darkened place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PET bottles will allow the beer to go flat over time.  PET &quot;breathes&quot; in a sense, so the carbon-dioxide can escape.  I'm not certain if a similar exchange of oxygen can occur.  IF so, this would risk the beer becoming oxidized.  PET bottled beer should therefore be consumed within a few months of bottling, which doesn't allow you to take the time to age your brew properly.  And yes, aging beer does allow flavors to develop and some of the harsher flavors to mellow, particularly in darker beer recipes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitizer will not clean a scratched PET bottle properly at all.  If you've needed to get a brush into the bottle, chances are it will be scratched, and therefore more difficult to keep clean for your next brew.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scratches both inside and out can weaken the bottle so that even a mildly excessive pressure can allow the bottle to rupture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to keep your brews in either bottles or kegs.  In my experience, kegs will allow beer to age better than in bottles, and your bottling time is reduced to filling a keg or two in a few minutes, rather than spending ages adding extra sugar and filling 30+ bottles.  Maintaining kegs is somewhat easier than maintaining bottles, but the initial setup is more expensive, and it can be fiddly getting your beer cold without modifying a fridge, or spending even more cash on a specialized fridge.  Glass bottles is therefore the more cost effective compromise.  Most home brew shops will be able to sell you a crate of bottles, or if you have a favorite brew, just save the bottles for your next brew.  Larger glass soft drink bottles can also be used if you can find them, but the caps need to be replaced from time to time as they lose their ability to maintain a seal after a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1995" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T04:29:41.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2227" CreationDate="2012-01-03T04:42:13.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Jim answered earlier, with good sanitation, you can leave your beer in secondary for nearly as long as you want.  However, if your beer continues to ferment, this will likely affect the finish of your brew depending on factors such as yeast type, temperature stability, and the specific gravity of your beer when you decided to transfer it from your primary.  Also, any sediment can and will affect the flavor of the brew. Neither issue are problems as such. Just something to keep in mind depending on the beer style you are brewing, and the flavors that you are aiming for. Some pale ales taste better (subjectively) with a little sediment and cloud in them, but this would not be as desirable in your carefully crafted Pils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, it's really boils down to whatever it is that floats your beery boat!  ;-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1995" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T04:42:13.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-03T04:50:33.357" Score="1" ViewCount="5489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this link the other day on how to make beer from stale bread. It seems like it is legitimately working, but at the same time, it doesn't seem very clear on it's alcohol adjustments. My goal is to make a 12% beer out of household ingredients. If anyone has any tips to help me successfully brew a batch (Doesn't have to be great beer. I don't expect New York strip out of pig intestines) please let me know. Also, on the site's alcohol adjustments, it's not clear or consistent with the original recipe, e.g. for the original, it says use a breathable cloth and let sit 1-2 days, where as on the adjustment, it says to use an airlock and let it sit 6-7 after fermentation begins. Than both say strain out the solids. If anyone can clear the air for me so I know what to do, I would greatly appreciate it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sites.google.com/site/yankeeharp/breadbeer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sites.google.com/site/yankeeharp/breadbeer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1994" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-01-03T13:57:25.643" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T20:46:46.550" Title="Expert opinions on brewing beer from bread (If an expert were to use this method)" Tags="|beer|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-03T06:33:32.400" Score="4" ViewCount="4918" Body="&lt;p&gt;first time brewer... I stuffed up and added yeast to just boiled water with the malt and sugar. Is there any chance the yeast will have survived or should I just bin it and start again? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1996" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-01-03T14:06:51.103" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T21:00:12.867" Title="Added yeast to boiling water" Tags="|beer|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5878" CreationDate="2012-01-03T07:16:56.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a chance that your yeast survived boiling water, but continue the brew and then cool it normally.  After you have done that, pitch new yeast or whatever drips you can get out of your first container into the wort and see what happens--no reason to throw it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you only have your empty yeast container (and not an extra new container full of yeast) then put about a cup of water at about 105 degrees F into a sterile container and mix in about a teaspoon of sugar.  Then add what ever drops of yeast you can squeeze out of your empty container.  Give it a couple of hours.  There is a chance that the yeast will take off in there.  After a couple of hours, just pitch it into your wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1997" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T07:16:56.547" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5877" CreationDate="2012-01-03T08:26:02.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;whether or not you use an airlock or a breathable cloth you are going to end up with a myriad of whatever yeasts are on that stale bread. &#xA;The only reason to use an airlock would be if you boiled the bread to create a wort( or something like it), and then pitched yeast to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-20T20:46:46.550" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T20:46:46.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2012-01-03T09:09:42.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taste the one from Schneider Weisse - &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/72/74625&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tap X Mein Sauvin&lt;/a&gt; - great one. Weizenbock is really nice combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T09:09:42.373" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-03T09:09:42.373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2012-01-03T09:23:04.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All beers brewed with infusion method are easier then beers brewed with 2 or 3 step decoction. Well maybe not easier, however decoction takes much more time, energy, money and you need also more boiling devices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T09:23:04.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5877" CreationDate="2012-01-03T13:54:07.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you're looking for is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kvass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kvass&lt;/a&gt;, which is brewed using rye bread as a base.   A traditional one is not going to be particularly alcoholic, though (on the order of ginger beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2007/07/neo-kvass.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Neo-Kvass from The Mad Fermentationist&lt;/a&gt;  (This guy has logged making a couple of other ones, too, which might be up your alley, though)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T13:54:07.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-03T14:37:32.677" Score="4" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok. Sorry if this has been asked. I really did try to research it. LOL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did my first batch of American Amber Ale, and made a few mistakes. I didn't take an initial gravity reading, and I think I kind of &quot;half assed&quot; measuring the amount of water to add to bring the brew up to 5 gallons in the primary carboy for fermentation. (I have since measured out 5 gallons on my primary and secondary carboy). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I racked it to my secondary, the brew is sitting about a little under 4 gallons. Hmmm. Took a reading and it seems to be where the recipe calls for in gravity and alcohol content. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question... when I go to bottle, should I add extra water to the priming sugar to bring the levels closer to 5 gallons? Not for taste, but to stretch my brew as far as possible? Or should I leave it at 4 gallons and hope for the best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Live and learn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1957" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T15:56:20.530" Title="Adding water before bottling" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5884" CreationDate="2012-01-03T15:56:20.530" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leave it 4 gallons.  Adding water will only make it taste &quot;watery&quot; -- if you're happy with the flavor, then hey, awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During each transfer phase you will lose some volume due to trub/yeast/etc -- since you're trying to transfer only the beer/wort and not the dead yeast/hop residue/etc, you'll find losses at each stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I brew a 5 gallon batch, in order to get 5 actual gallons into the keg, I start with nearly 8 gallons of water during my mash/sparge phase.  From grain absorption and dead space in the mash ton (giving me around 6.75 gallons into the boil kettle), to evaporation (down to 6.25 or lower depending on length of boil), to wort lose due to hop absorption (6-5.75 gallons into the fermenter) to beer loss due to the yeast cake, sampling and so forth (5.5 at the transfer to secondary, 5.25 at the transfer to key), I only end up with about 5-5.25 gallons total of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1686" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T15:56:20.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5727" CreationDate="2012-01-03T17:02:31.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you change anything in your yeast handling procedures?  Did you re-hydrate?  Or did you skip it?  Was the yeast old?  Did you get it shipped in extreme weather?  Did you buy the yeast from a new source?  Typically the literature suggests beefy taste / smell is a yeast autolysis problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if you left your pack of US-05 out warm, many of the cells may have died and that autolysis flavor could be transfered into your beer.  Or maybe it froze and the cells died.  Or maybe the pack was very old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know any certified BJCP judges?  If so have one give you their opinion, if not find a brew club and hope to find a judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do don't quit brewing because you had one bad batch.  Do you always give up at things that easy??  Stick with it!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2000" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T17:02:31.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5854" CreationDate="2012-01-03T17:19:59.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good answers are already posted to answer the question. But one thing that isn't mentioned is the ways to avoid this from happening in the first place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you brew a 5 gallon batch have your primary fermenter have at least a 6.5 gallon capacity.  Thereby allowing enough headspace so that active yeast growth and CO2 production will not blow out your airlock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are brewing a high gravity beer or don't have a larger capacity carboy.  Place a sterilized hose into the rubber stopper on the top of the carboy and place that into a container of sterilized liquid which is placed at a lower elevation relative to the stopper in the top of the carboy.  Thereby allowing a sterile blow-off location saving you the trouble of a mess outside your carboy.  Then after the active fermentation has finished affix a standard airlock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It never hurts to be overly cautious with sterilization.  That is why I always use sanitize on the mouth and top of the carboy and my hands before pulling an airlock if the beer is not finished out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastEditorUserId="1981" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T21:16:59.450" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T21:16:59.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5878" CreationDate="2012-01-04T00:16:48.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this situation, brew it as normal and get it into the fermentor.  The wort should be fine for a day as long as your initial sanitation was good.  I routinely do lagers this way.  Make the wort, transfer to carboy and chill it overnight, pitching the yeast in the morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the fermentor of wort in the coolest place in the house or basement.  Make it a priority to get a fresh pitch of yeast from the brew store the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T00:16:48.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5482" CreationDate="2012-01-04T01:27:35.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very interesting discussion. Regarding the potential pressure issues the device on the link below may help. I hold my beer at ambient, use a flash cooler and one of these gadgets in between the cooler outlet and the tap it works good and I dont need nor do I have space for a kegerator. Not suggesting you buy one from this site but just offering a solution to possible foaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/ez-balance-pid-802991KS.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/ez-balance-pid-802991KS.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1943" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T01:27:35.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4888" CreationDate="2012-01-04T01:46:20.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a good design for a counter pressure filling device, it used the same principals as a long tube bottling filler uses in a brewery. I think these designs can be refined or modified  but are a good starting point.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ipass.net/mpdixon/Homebrew/CounterPressureFiller.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ipass.net/mpdixon/Homebrew/CounterPressureFiller.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1943" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T01:46:20.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5893" CreationDate="2012-01-04T01:46:29.267" Score="2" ViewCount="25230" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first shot at homebrewing, using Northern Brewer's American Wheat Beer kit which is based on liquid malt extract, Willamette and Cascade hops, and a packet of dry yeast.  I brewed and put the hopped wort into fermentation on Friday.  By Sunday morning (~40 hours later), fermentation seemed to be moving along at a good clip -- I could see bubbles traveling through the airlock about once every 2 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, by Monday morning, bubbling had completely stopped.  The weather (and my house) had gotten considerably cooler overnight, so thinking the cold was to blame, I moved the fermenter into the warmest room in the house (which still probably never goes over 70 Fahrenheit).  Still, no bubbling as of Tuesday evening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was under the impression that fermentation should be vigorous for at least a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been doing some research and realize now that when I was brewing I didn't really understand the importance of aerating the wort.  I shook it around for a minute or so in the fermenter on brewing day, but maybe that wasn't enough?  Also, I didn't realize until brewing day that I should have been keeping the dry yeast packet in the fridge/freezer -- it had been sitting out in my basement (60-75 Fahrenheit) for at least a month.  Oops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on if I screwed something up or if there's a way to fix it (if it really needs fixed)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate any help.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;At the suggestion of Denny (and some other homebrewers I talked to in person), I decided to just let the fermentation run its course and I'm happy to report that fermentation seems to have worked -- my original gravity was 1.041 (possibly slightly higher as the reading was taken warm) and after two weeks on bottling day I was at 1.016 = 60% attenuation (right?).  Although the Safale US-05 Ale Yeast I used doesn't give attenuation specs, some folks on a forum said they usually get at least 70% from that strain, so it's possible that fermentation might have been a little stunted from the yeast not being refrigerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is conditioning in the bottles now, so hopefully it will taste good when I crack one open in a couple weeks.  Thanks everyone for all the input -- if nothing else I've learned the importance of taking good care of the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1993" LastEditorUserId="1993" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T03:00:44.707" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T15:39:09.157" Title="Fermentation started, then stopped the next day. Is my yeast dead?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|aeration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5482" CreationDate="2012-01-04T03:51:24.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The delivery pressure depends on what style you're serving. Myself, it's usually always something of the IPA variety served anywhere from between 38-42 degrees F. I keep it simple. When I keg, I dial up the pressure to 30 PSI for 24-36 hours, then dial back to 10-12 PSI for another 24 hours. I've never had a bad pour using this method and I tried many different techniques. You &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; want to heed the advice about using the correct length of delivery hose, though, as you will definitely have foam issues if you use a length that's too short. I would use one of the many calculators available on the internet to establish the correct measurements for your particular application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T03:51:24.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5891" CreationDate="2012-01-04T16:56:45.623" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bubbling really tells you nothing other than CO2 is being released.  It's not a reliable indicator of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, if you ferment in a bucket and have a loose seal you won't see bubbles.  Aeration is needed so that the yeast can use the O2 to synthesize sterols to build new cells.  Because the cell count in dry yeast is so much higher than liquid yeast, aeration is much less important.  Your yeast should have been kept refrigerated, though, so the cell count may be down a bit.  It probably wasn't a fatal mistake.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I wouldn't worry.  Give it a week or so, then take a gravity reading to see where you're at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="6534" LastEditDate="2017-10-03T15:39:09.157" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T15:39:09.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-04T21:13:12.823" Score="8" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making wine (mostly red) at home for about a year now and find that even though I ferment them dry I still find them to taste too much like fresh fruit.  Any thoughts on getting to that aged almost leathery profile that I prefer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1973" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T14:49:42.240" Title="I find my wines to be too &quot;juicy&quot;" Tags="|flavor|wine|aging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2012-01-04T21:26:17.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife greatly enjoyed a Blueberry rye made by a local Pittsburgh brewery East End Brewing.  She hates high IBU but loved that.  maybe that would be a good route to go for you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T21:26:17.777" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-04T21:26:17.777" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4888" CreationDate="2012-01-05T01:09:26.723" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two parts - carbonation, and getting it in the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For carbonation, there are various methods, but I use the set-it-and-forget-it method.  Beer goes in keg, keg goes in fridge, CO2 gas gets put on keg.  Just set the pressure to the amount of CO2 you want in solution - &quot;volumes&quot; of CO2 - based on the style of beer and a handy temperature / pressure chart &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this one.&lt;/a&gt;  Then you wait until it's carbed to your preference.  I usually wait 2 weeks for full carbonation.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/resources/carbonation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's another link&lt;/a&gt; with a style guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to get the beer in the bottles, I prefer a variation of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/we-no-need-no-stinking-beer-gun-24678/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Biermuncher Bottle Filler.&lt;/a&gt;  It's just a picnic tap, hose, rubber stopper and racking cane.  You basically jam the racking cane in the picnic tap, then put a stopper on the racking cane.  The stopper allows you to keep backpressure on the beer as you're filling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EhmWV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GbosV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do it right off my taps using an adapter for my Perlick faucets.  I've made two videos on the process I use.  It's convenient and cheap.  I can bottle right at serving pressure (12psi), and I don't have to move kegs or change any fittings in the fridge, which is a big plus - the keg I want is invariably all the way at the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IgVx3h5llA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;First video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXhYmTlHH50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Second video, updated for new kegerator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T01:09:26.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-05T10:08:26.100" Score="1" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seemed a waste not to bottle my previously frozen ice chunk left over from an Eisbock recipe. It had all the smell and flavor and was a bit darker. Has anyone ever bottled their ice from icebock? Did it explode?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T12:22:05.610" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T17:53:01.453" Title="Eisbock chunk thawed" Tags="|beer|frozen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5898" CreationDate="2012-01-05T19:39:43.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ice is water with little, if any, alcohol to it.  There's really no reason to bottle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-01-05T20:19:10.850" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T20:19:10.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5903" CreationDate="2012-01-05T20:41:45.370" Score="1" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a one pound bag of northern brewer hops (along with about a half pound left of amarillos).  Any suggestions for a recipe or style?  I'm typically pretty boring, love to brew APA's, IPA's (though I do have a winter warmer going along with a Gose)...also have limited temp control.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any luck using Northern Brewers in a spring/summer blonde?  Maybe a porter or an American variation on an ESB?  Never brewed me one of those.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T02:22:02.910" Title="Styles other than steam suited for use of Northern Brewer hops" Tags="|hops|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2012-01-05T21:46:13.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does she like Big Beer American Pilsners (BMC)?  If yes, I would try a minimally-complex lager.  If not, I might go with the fruitier lambics or wheats/wits with a moderate fruit addition that are mentioned above (my wife loves my wit...and my witbier)....  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think the hefty malt backbones of tripels, BGSA's, and the massive esters and complexities of a saison can scare off non-beer geeks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ONE THING TO CONSIDER:  I love Sauv Blanc, but what I like about it is the dryness, SUGGESETION of fruit, and the GRASSINESS (not mentioned above or in your wiki excerpt).  Maybe try a gentle style, with some grassy hops either at 30 minutes or flameout?  The Kolsch-Amarillo idea above is great for that.  I personally find Amarillos to impart an earthier character than the &quot;C&quot; hops to which they are regularly compared.  Comment back and let us know what you go with/how it comes out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T21:46:13.830" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-05T21:46:13.830" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5900" CreationDate="2012-01-06T00:29:48.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopunion.com/17_HopVarietyHandbook.cfm?p3=open&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hop Union variety handbook&lt;/a&gt; says that Northern Brewer hops are good in 'All English-styles especially Porter.&quot; Kolsch and Helles are also suggested, but maybe not the best choice if you have limited temp control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at Hopville, there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/brewing-ingredients/hop/211/northern-brewer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;currently 6466 recipes&lt;/a&gt; that use Northern Brewer hops. I didn't go through all 6000, but I see a huge variety of styles, everything from APA to RIS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T00:29:48.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5900" CreationDate="2012-01-06T02:22:02.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Northern brewer makes a fine bittering hop for almost any style. The alpha acid content is not a high as some more modern varieties, but high enough that you can reach a reasonable IBU target with just an ounce or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also used Northern Brewer for wheat beers -- 3/4 oz for a five gallon batch, boil for 60 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T02:22:02.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5898" CreationDate="2012-01-06T03:18:07.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The freezing point of the ethanol in your eisbock is much lower than water, thus, your chunk is, sadly, just a big ice cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T17:53:01.453" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T17:53:01.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5909" CreationDate="2012-01-06T11:24:37.280" Score="5" ViewCount="7525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an absolute beginner; I've merely helped my brother brew once.  I purchased a beer brewing kit and want to get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter3.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;John Palmer's bible&lt;/a&gt; suggests that I should throw out the directions that come with any beer kit and follow the general guidelines he lays out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back of the can (it is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackrock.co.nz/product+information.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Black Rock&quot; from New Zealand&lt;/a&gt;, their Nut Brown Ale package) suggests to throw the malt extract with water and suger into the fermenter and have at it (well, not &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; simple, but there's no wort boil step).  When I made beer previously with my brother, we boiled the wort -- but we were also hopping the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This malt extract is pre-hopped -- so is there a specific need to boil the wort first?  Will this have any impact on the flavor and fermentation of the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help!  I was hoping to brew tomorrow!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2012" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T08:47:31.527" Title="Should I boil a hopped malt extract prior to fermentation?" Tags="|wort|extract|malt|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5912" CreationDate="2012-01-06T13:49:00.120" Score="6" ViewCount="2069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love recycling yeast, see it as a great way to save money, and if you find a good one, they are great to use over and over again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was chatting with a guy in my homebrew club who is a distiller (for a commercial operation), a very talented brewer, and just a general science nerd.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He stated that an acid wash (pure phosphoric - not Starsan) would GREATLY improve the attenuation rates and general viability of multiple-generation yeast.  Essentially, if the upper case &quot;O&quot; is the mother yeast cell, and the lower case is the new/baby yeast cell&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the baby splits off from the mother&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;O --&gt; o &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it leaves a scar (x) on the cell wall.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ox        o&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If left alive, those mother cells will eventually need to work way harder even in optimum conditions for the strain.  Eventually, those scarred cells will outnumber the viable cells if you keep harvesting and regenerating.  The result for your beer is you will get unwanted esters, phenols, and other byproducts because these cells are working harder than they should be. The phosphoric acid kills the cells with the scars, but not the new ones.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience with this practice or this phenomenon of reproduction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T18:08:57.653" Title="Phosphoric Acid Wash for Yeast" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5218" CreationDate="2012-01-06T14:24:00.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just don't know why you would chance it.  IMHO, this is not a shortcut to take.  You risk light damage, loss of carbonation, and a host of sanitization issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See if a local craft beer bar would hook you up with spent bottles.  If there's a homebrew club in yor area, see if any members would be willing to hook you up.  I was short on bottles once, and actually went around my neighborhood and grabbed a few extras out of people's recycling bins when taking my dog for a walk.  It was early enough in the morning that the only strange looks I received were from my dog.  A run through the dishwasher, soak in pcb and starsan (which you need to do anyway) and they were ready to rock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homebrewing is about finding ways to minimize potential problems, because many can arise.  Could you conduct your fermentation in a rubbermaid storage bin?  Maybe.  Could you attempt to 'sanitize' by using Fantastik instead of Starsan?  Maybe.  However, using an Ale Pail and Starsan are inexpensive methods to 'close the gap' on the variability of making drinkable beer with an imperfect setup, which most homebrewers have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could just plow through a few cases of commecial craft brew and use those bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T14:24:00.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5906" CreationDate="2012-01-06T14:48:13.923" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling serves a few purposes in beer. Mainly it is done for the dual purpose of extracting bitterness from hops while also killing any wild yeast or bacteria that were on the brewing ingredients. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of hopped malt extract, the bitterness has already been extracted for you, and the extract itself is totally sterile as its already been boiled down to a concentrate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOWEVER, the water that you add to the extract, plus the extra sugar (if any) might very well have contaminants in them which could cause off flavors in your beer. If you don't want to do a big boil, here's what I would recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy sealed &quot;drinking water&quot; jugs from the store (I'm assuming you can get water by the gallon in a pre-sealed container in Japan). Sealed water jugs for drinking are going to be virtually devoid of any spoilage organisms, and are safe to use without boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix a small amount of water (1 liter maybe) into the extra sugar you are going to add and bring that to a boil on the stove. That will nuke any bugs that are hanging onto the sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pour the extract into a sanitized fermentor, then dump the boiled sugar water in, then pour in the water from the jugs that you just opened. You are going to have to shake the holy heck out of the fermentor to get the malt extract to mix in to that room temp water and it won't be easy, but don't worry too much, the yeast should be able to plow through the extract even if its not perfectly distributed right away. Pitch the yeast in after you stir the mix up as best you can and you should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T14:48:13.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5907" CreationDate="2012-01-06T17:18:54.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that what applies to a commercial operation often has no applicability to homebrewing.  Most homebrewers I know who have tried acid washing their yeast end up deciding that it's a PITA for little to no payback.  In addition, unless you have a lab, the more you mess with your yeast the greater the chance of contamination.  While the theory you cite is not doubt valid, on our scale it just doesn't seem to be worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T17:18:54.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5915" CreationDate="2012-01-07T06:44:25.940" Score="1" ViewCount="1472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a Kolsch beer for the first time with a pretty straight forward recipe using WLP029 yeast. I've only brewed basic ales so far and I'm confused about the fermentation temps and times for this style. From what I read on the White Labs site this yeast is not successful below 62f, but from what I understand Kolsch style should be lagered. Should I treat it as a lager and primary ferment at 62f until it's 75% complete and then move to a secondary and lager it for several weeks at 50f or so? Or should I just keep it at 62f for primary and secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T16:19:56.560" Title="Kolsch fermentation temps and schedule" Tags="|beer|fermentation-temperature|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5907" CreationDate="2012-01-07T14:45:11.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd not heard of yeast scarring before, so I researched a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://mic.sgmjournals.org/content/146/5/1023.long&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Replicative ageing and senescence in Saccharomyces cerevisiae and the impact on brewing fermentations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ageing is the predetermined progressive transition of an individual&#xA;  cell from youth to old age that finally culminates in death. Yeast&#xA;  replicative ageing is a function of the number of divisions undertaken&#xA;  by an individual cell, and may be measured by enumerating the number&#xA;  of bud scars on the cell surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, scarring is used as a direct measure of the yeast's age. But it's not thought that the scars themselves cause deterioration of the yeast:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] increasing the deposition of chitin, the major component of bud scars [...] has little effect on longevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but rather other factors, such as genetics, play a key role in the vitality of the yeast:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It has been postulated that ageing occurs either by a genetic inhibition of metabolically &#xA;  essential proteins and enzymes, such as DNA repair enzymes or antioxidants &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An aged yeast cell exhibits a&#xA;  distinct morphology and physiology from that of younger cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beer-brewing.com/beer-brewing/brewers_yeast/yeast_washing.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;known&lt;/a&gt; that acid washing kills off weaker yeast cells and bacteria, leaving the stronger yeast behind. Although I can't find a direct reference, presumably the morphological and physiological changes make the older cells weaker, and so they are killed off during the acid wash, leaving only young/middle generation cells behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a conical fermentor, another method is to crop and repitch yeast from the top of the cone. This article - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbaa.com/Districts/Michigan/presentations_archive/2011_01_14YeastStorageFermentation.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yeast Storage and Fermentation: Effects on Viability and Flavor Production&lt;/a&gt; offers a lot of information about yeast handling and touches on yeast scarring and acid washing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Benefits Claimed for Acid Washing &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;De-flocculation and ease of handling&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduced lag period in fermentation &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleaning the cell surface&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduced time to achieve desired diacetyl&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis added.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't specifically mention removal of old cells, however, the article does include a graph showing the number of scars observed from yeast cropped from a range of 12 regions from the bottom to the top of the cone. Those nearest the top were newest and consequently had the fewest scars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both articles mention that the bottom of the cone is usually dumped, and only yeast from the top of the cone is repitched. They both mention that pitching younger cells reduces the off-flavors associated with stressed yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up - you want to pitch only young/middle generation cells from the slurry to avoid off-flavors, and these can be obtained either by acid washing or by cropping from the top of the cone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mic.sgmjournals.org/content/146/5/1023.long&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Replicative ageing and senescence in Saccharomyces cerevisiae and the impact on brewing fermentations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbaa.com/Districts/Michigan/presentations_archive/2011_01_14YeastStorageFermentation.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yeast Storage and Fermentation: Effects on Viability and Flavor Production&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-01-07T18:08:57.653" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T18:08:57.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-07T15:22:30.193" Score="3" ViewCount="5106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my beer (Belgium witbier) in primary fermentation for about a week. I'd like to rack to secondary, then keep it in secondary for 3 weeks. Advisable? I could keep it in primary for another week or so, but I'm worried that sediment (there was a ton with the two types of hops, orange peel and coriander I used) might start to cause off flavors if I let it go too long in the primary (p.s. primarary is a bucket, secondary is glass carboy). Based some upcoming vacation plans, it will be in secondary for at least three weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2015" LastEditorUserId="2377" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T13:26:23.070" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T13:49:41.287" Title="Is secondary fermentation advisable for Belgium witbier?" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5913" CreationDate="2012-01-07T16:14:51.530" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The need to rack to secondary is a somewhat controversial topic, but here's my opinion: leaving the beer on the lees, in the primary, for another three weeks will have no adverse effects on flavor. In fact, transferring to secondary introduces a small risk of infection, and offers little or no benefit and so should be discouraged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T16:14:51.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5911" CreationDate="2012-01-07T16:19:56.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ferment at the recommended temperature until terminal gravity is achieved, and then lager at near freezing temperature. If you bring the temp down to 50 F. Before terminal gravity is reached the mostly likely outcome is a stalled fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T16:19:56.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5918" CreationDate="2012-01-08T05:58:59.730" Score="0" ViewCount="1032" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across a couple similar questions, but not exactly what I was looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only have a short period where I have time to brew, but my starter isn't ready and some cooling equipment. Are there any concerns or side affects to brewing like normal then transferring to a sanitized fermentor with airlock and not pitching until the next day or so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T17:02:15.423" Title="Waiting to pitch yeast?" Tags="|beer|fermentation-temperature|lager|lagering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-08T15:26:05.820" Score="2" ViewCount="2399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a little project of my own regarding beer balance and I've got a lot of theories. One of the questions I haven't yet answered is how alcohol impacts balance after it gets to a particular percentage and starts tasting sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any research (or common thoughts) on how alcoholic a beer needs to get before it starts tasting a bit sweet, which I feel helps offset hop bitterness and malt astringency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible it is different per person, which could be why I've been unable to find hard numbers. For me, it seems to be somewhere in the 7-8% ABV range that I begin to perceive sweetness from alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastEditorUserId="907" LastEditDate="2012-01-08T22:22:05.110" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T09:38:36.077" Title="At what alcohol level does alcohol start to contribute sweetness?" Tags="|alcohol|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5916" CreationDate="2012-01-08T15:30:37.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It gives an increased chance for bacteria to take over from the yeast if your sanitation isn't impeccable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, many Australian homebrewers cool their wort overnight (the no chill method) and pitch their yeast the next day. I'm not planning on trying that, but it seems to work for them without introducing bacteria since they sanitize properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch your yeast starter immediately. If your yeast is already viable and your beer isn't too high gravity, you can pitch without a starter and be perfectly fine most of the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make absolutely sure everything is sanitized properly and pitch the next day or later in the day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T15:30:37.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5913" CreationDate="2012-01-08T15:33:59.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the above in most cases. If you're okay with doing so, I might rack to secondary in this case if you have a lot of adjuncts sitting there (more than a couple tbsp each of bitter orange peel/coriander), but I highly doubt it will be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I leave most of my brews in primary for 3-4 weeks and only ever rack to secondary if it's going to sit around for more than about 6 weeks (I just tried leaving a Belgian Brown in primary for nearly 5 months and bottled it last week--it tasted excellent. I was surprised).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastEditorUserId="907" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T15:24:36.353" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T15:24:36.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5917" CreationDate="2012-01-08T17:48:00.107" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's a direct relationship between ABV and perceived sweetness. Residual sugars contribute to the sweetness. One reason for this can be the use of low attenuative yeast strains either on purpose or otherwise. High gravity beers require yeasts that are tolerant of the high alcohol levels. Use of these alcohol tolerant strains can produce dry beers even at high levels of ABV, however. So, in short, I think the answer of sweetness is more attributed to the combination of attenuation and alcohol tolerance of the yeast and not ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2012-01-08T19:32:37.923" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T19:32:37.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5218" CreationDate="2012-01-08T19:49:08.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use pop bottles for bottling.  They're made of thick, food-grade plastic, the caps have very good liners for sealing, they don't break, and they're light to carry or move around.  I use a variety of sizes per batch (2l, 1l, 710 ml, 500ml) to fit my thirst any given day, and you can eventually even return them to a depot for a refund!  Just make sure they're clean, as with everytihng in brewing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find most types of water bottles are too thin and flimsy --- made for one use only.  Glass bottles are nice, they even add a bit of elegance to things, but for simple, informal drinking, a Coke bottle is too practical to beat.         &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1919" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T19:49:08.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5913" CreationDate="2012-01-08T20:02:36.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheat beers in general don't require secondary regardless of where you sit with the secondary debate.  If you have time to rack it, maybe it would be better to bottle it and then you can be drinking it when you get home from vacation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that sitting on the primary is probably a better place for it than secondary, IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T20:02:36.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5916" CreationDate="2012-01-09T17:02:15.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possible method if you have a lid to your brew kettle is to clean and sterilize the lid either by conventional sterilization methods or cover it a little before flame out so that the lid is sterilzed by the heat and steam.  Then just wait till morning when the wort has fully cooled and transfer it into a sterilized container, being careful not to transfer the trub from the bottom of the kettle.  Then pitch immediately.  This approach has the added benefit that you can leave the trub in the kettle.  I have seen this successfully used and was being used by a molecular biologist who was quite keen on sterile technique.  As long as I knew him he never had bacterial infection in his brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T17:02:15.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5891" CreationDate="2012-01-09T17:19:56.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Previously I was mistaken. Yeast do not abide by the same rules as mammalian cells which I am familiar, who prefer aerobic respiration when there is oxygen. Instead when yeast are introduced into the wort (which is over 1% by weight sugar), regardless of the presence of oxygen, they immediately enter fermentation and begin producing ethanol. This is called the Crabtree effect and is probably induced because they yeast want to use the O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; create sterols that are required to make more yeast. Apparently the yeast trade off a more efficient respiratory process for growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sugar from the wort is thus fermented and during this process CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is released in the final step where lactic acid is converted into ethanol and CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;.  For each of the glucose molecules produces 2 molecules of ethanol and CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. Thus the bubbling observed in beer fermentation comes from fermentation which is initiated at pitching of the yeast. The yeast are using primarily anaerobic respiration and also dividing simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In answer to your question your beer is likely going to be fine. I typically wait till the yeast has dropped out of suspension (flocculated) to make a layer on the bottom of the fermenter.  That usually means the yeast are done and it is time to bottle.  Just make sure to take hydrometer readings after a week or so and bottle or keg when it reaches the final gravity you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastEditorUserId="1981" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T20:18:34.353" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T20:18:34.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5913" CreationDate="2012-01-09T18:16:26.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I typically do a secondary rack just the clarify the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T18:16:26.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5819" CreationDate="2012-01-09T18:16:35.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you've already seen the US-based &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bottlemark.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bottlemark&lt;/a&gt;, out of Houston, Texas. If you can't find a low-volume cap customizer in the UK, I would say that Bottlemark is your next-best bet. Shipping on 100 caps is estimated to be just &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bottlemark.com/info/shipping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;USD$10 internationally&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T18:16:35.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5930" CreationDate="2012-01-09T20:19:55.137" Score="3" ViewCount="1868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to start off by saying thank you to all who answer these questions. I have been brewing for about a year now and while I have not asked a question before, this is only attributed to everyone else’s questions and the helpful advice you all give. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Should you ever oxygenate a very high OG beer once it has finished fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background info: I am making a Belgian Tripple (Pirrate Ale clone). The OG was right around 1.1 the final ABV is supposed to be around 10%. I shook my fermenter vigorously numerous times but do not have an oxygenator. I read that about 45 sec to 1 min of vigorous shaking will get the O2 to around 8 percent which is as much as you can hope for with shaking. I pitched a 4ish L starter and kept the fermenter in a water bath to keep the temp down. It took right off and kept it up for about 5 days. I secondaried it after 2 weeks (well after active fermentation died out) but did not take a FG (I like to wait until I bottle for that, I'm nervous about infection). At my local home brew store meeting I posed my question. I have not been to many of these meetings and don’t know if I trust their answers yet. They told me to aerate/ degauss to ensure that there is plenty of O2 to carry out fermentation. I have always worked under the idea that once it ferments you do not splash to ensure no O2 gets in. This seems like it would cause the beer to stale faster especially since I want to age it for quite a while. Maybe I am looking for the lesser of two evils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured I would ask here before I did anything else. Thanks again for all the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2019" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T14:29:54.783" Title="Aerating a 1.10 OG beer once its in the secondary" Tags="|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5927" CreationDate="2012-01-09T20:26:41.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the caveat that I personally don't brew beers that big, let me say that it seems incorrect to suggest that you add oxygen at any point other than prior to the initial yeast pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest that you overcome your fear of infection and take a sample now. If the beer is anywhere near final gravity, then you most certainly do NOT want to oxygenate. You'll end up with oxidized beer if you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T20:26:41.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5927" CreationDate="2012-01-09T20:32:49.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With some bigger beers I have seen instructions to aerate for the first few days of fermentation, or beers where you add sugar incrementally during fermentation to re-aerate then.  Most definitely &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; after 2 weeks, since fermentation is most likely complete or very near it.  There's no point in oxygenating, since the yeast are no longer very active and will not use the oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Graham suggested, take a sample and see where your gravity is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T20:32:49.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5927" CreationDate="2012-01-09T20:36:01.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised you didn't take a gravity reading when you racked to secondary. The infection risk comes from exposing the beer to atmosphere and potentially contaminated tubing. You can fill a sample jar without adding any extra risk. Throw away or drink the contents of the sample jar, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got plenty of fermentable sugars remaining in the beer, oxygenation should not do any harm and might do some good. The yeast will consume the oxygen and sugar to produce more yeast, which should then go on to anaerobically (i.e. without oxygen) ferment whatever sugars remain in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, however, there is little or no remaining fermentable sugar, oxygenating at this point could cause serious harm. Without sugar, the yeast will leave the oxygen alone. Oxygen in finished beer promotes spoilage and adds undesirable flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'd suggest taking a gravity reading and deciding what to do based on how close you are to your target final gravity. Take gravity reading and wait three days. Take another gravity reading. If the gravity hasn't changed significantly, &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; the gravity is significantly (e.g. &gt; 10 points) above your terminal gravity, you could consider adding oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do add oxygen, you should consider adding some fresh yeast as well. Just in case the re is not enough yeast currently in the beer to consume the oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the safest course is to move the beer to a warm spot (mid 70's), gently rouse the yeast and wait a week or two to see if the gravity drops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T20:36:01.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5927" CreationDate="2012-01-09T21:24:51.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The purpose of adding oxygen is to help the yeast reproduce. The yeast consume the oxygen as part of their reproduction process. Once the oxygen is gone, the yeast move on to fermenting your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your yeast have already reproduced, so the addition of oxygen will only serve to oxidize your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd only oxygenate a fermented beer if I were pitching new yeast and new fermentables (sugar, fruit, etc). Then the oxygen would help the new yeast reproduce successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T21:24:51.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5934" CreationDate="2012-01-10T00:19:28.890" Score="1" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;Celebration Ale Clone (extract kit)&#xA;White Labs California Ale Yeast (liquid vial, no starter, I know next time I'll make a starter)&#xA;Pitched at 68 degrees and good activity 18 hours later, got up to 71 degrees for the first 4 days of fermentation, but from days 5-10 its been around 64 degrees (house got cold and didn't have a temp control system) and the last 2 days have given gravity readings of only 1.021.&#xA;I aerated by pouring back and forth between the ferm bucket and bottling bucket and shook the bucket up before pitching, which is what I usually do and seems to work well for aeration on my other batches, but I did just order an O2 aeration system for my next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also did just get a Fermwrap and Johnson Digital Temp Controller to help in temp control during the colder months.&#xA;My question is would it work to swirl the bucket a bit to resuspend some of the yeast and use the Fermwrap to get the temp back up to 70 degrees to help it get down to a FG closer to the estimated 1.012?&#xA;I don't want to create any bottle bombs with a 1.021 gravity reading.&#xA;I contacted the store (Brewer's Apprentice in Freehold, NJ) where I get my kits and they weren't to sure if that would do anything, but shouldn't it help the yeast finish up since I feel like the yeast is probably just dormant from the colder temps? White Labs suggest 68-73 degrees.&#xA;Or is there anything else I can do to help it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Side Note: Read in another post that scorched wort can create unfermentable sugars resulting in a higher FG, and yes I did slightly scorch my extract cause I left the heat on for a minute when adding it, so this may be the reason)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2021" LastEditorUserId="2021" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T00:32:59.043" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T02:05:47.603" Title="Stuck Ferm? Celebration Ale Clone Gravity at 1.021" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5932" CreationDate="2012-01-10T00:34:22.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good way to find out if there are any fermentable sugars left is to do a Fast Ferment test. Use a wine thief to draw some beer and put it in a jar/container/flask, do a gravity reading to confirm the 1.021 number, then pitch some yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This website is really helpful with step-by-step instructions: &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fast_Ferment_Test#How_to_perform_the_fast_ferment_test.3F&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fast_Ferment_Test#How_to_perform_the_fast_ferment_test.3F&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T00:34:22.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5932" CreationDate="2012-01-10T02:05:47.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have restarted a ferment this way, but you need to warm it up first, then resuspend the yeast.  Doing in reverse just has yeast back in a suspension of cool wort/beer and they settle back out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said a 1.021 extract batch, with no starter and the hopping rate of a SN Celebration Clone makes me suspect that its about as done as its going to be.  I'd warm it up and see if it gives you a couple more points.  No need to swirl really there is plenty of yeast available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I wouldn't set my hopes on it getting to 1.012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also depends on the OG as well.  You might already be at a reasonable amount of apparent attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T02:05:47.603" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5927" CreationDate="2012-01-10T02:14:43.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't add more O2.  If the beer is partially fermented more O2 will create an oxidize character to the beer.  Something a Tripel shouldn't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to trust that you can sanitize a racking cane and get a sample for hydrometer testing of the gravity.  Its the only way to really answer this question appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making a beer that big you sort of have to accept a higher failure rate.  Pitching another starter of actively fermenting yeast may be the only solution to get it down a few more points.  If that doesn't do it you could add more O2 as a learning experience, but I bet you'd start picking up stale flavors in the finished product that you don't like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T02:14:43.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5939" CreationDate="2012-01-10T02:27:13.820" Score="5" ViewCount="1745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just finished my first brew (brown ale), and the results aren't quite as spectacular as I had hoped. The issue is a prominent, yet not overpowering, sweet almost caramel-like flavor. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;As best I can tell&lt;/a&gt;, the culprit is Diacetyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, being such a novice, I can't be certain that diacetyl is my issue let alone identify its origin. I have a few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do other contaminates or impurities produce similar flavors?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now that the beer has been bottled, is there anything I can still do to mitigate these flavors?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this the result of racking too early? If not, what are other possible causes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For #3, my beer sat in the primary fermenter for about 6 days before being transferred. The fermenter was producing virtually no gases for about 24 hours prior to transferring. I've read enough to now understand I need a hydrometer to judge properly, but is it likely I transferred too early? Is the source of my troubles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2005" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T14:46:14.653" Title="Combating Diacetyl" Tags="|off-flavor|racking|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5952" CreationDate="2012-01-10T04:34:21.003" Score="6" ViewCount="954" Body="&lt;p&gt;My BJCP Course states that (too) late aeration can cause diacetyl. My understanding is that diacetyl is produced by yeast during the first phase of fermentation. How could too much oxygen in a finished beer cause diacetyl flavor. Is it due to oxygenation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T16:26:31.903" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T01:47:58.220" Title="Why would aeration cause diacetyl" Tags="|fermentation|off-flavor|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5218" CreationDate="2012-01-10T05:57:31.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how many times you can reuse the plastic bottles -- not sure how well they handle multiple sanitation/pressure/squeezing etc.  I've used American Champagne bottles -- they use the same standard bottle cap and they hold 26oz.  I agree that the brown glass bottles are best.  if you need bottles, join s Sunday softball league.  Plenty of bottles there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2023" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T05:57:31.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5936" CreationDate="2012-01-10T13:49:56.880" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Sweet almost caramel-like flavor&quot; doesn't sound like diacetyl to me. Diacetyl is &quot;buttery,&quot; and is hard to get in normal Ale fermentations unless you are using a yeast strain known for it. (Ringwood, I think is noted for it?) What yeast did you use, and at what temps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would attribute &quot;sweet/caramel&quot; flavors in your first batch to more likely be &quot;extract twang,&quot; a common flavor you get when using a little too much crystal and the beer just isn't dry enough. I'm assuming this is an extract batch, of course. If you post your recipe, that would help as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for future reference, the current homebrewing wisdom is that it is best to NOT rack to secondary for at least 2-3 weeks, if you even rack at all. I would not feel good about racking a beer after 6 days, that's just to early. I can't think of a single type of beer that I'd rack so quick. On your next batch, unless it has fruit or lots of dry hops, I'd suggest that you skip the secondary altogether. Just ferment for 3 weeks in the primary before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T13:49:56.880" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5936" CreationDate="2012-01-10T14:46:14.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of follow up questions:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.)  as the poster above says, the recipe would help.  Sometimes it is difficult for yeast to metabolize the some of the sugars in extract syrups that haven't been fully converted to consumable monosaccharides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.)  Just a thought:  did you add your extract to your water when your heat source was fired?  That can cause carmelization (maillard reaction) of the sugars in the extract syrups and complicate/prevent the yeast's metabolization of them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.)  You absolutely, unequivocally need a hydrometer and some sort of sample thief to pull samples (a santized, decent-sized turkey baster will work in a pinch).  Otherwise, you have no way of knowing if the beer is finished.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.)  As the above poster said, I have learned to leave brews in the primary for a minimum of 2-3 weeks, usually no more than 4.  Even when those beautiful, smile-inducing airlock bubbles stop, the yeast is still working to make your beer better, primarily by cleaning up some other waste products, including, but not limited to diacetyl.  6 days is not a long time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5.)  Is the beer undrinkable (loaded question)?  My first brew (imperial blonde) was a tad on the sweeter side, but both my fiancee and I loved drinking it.  If its ok but not your favorite, I would keep it around, and it could mature some more in the bottles.  It is still a pretty 'green' beer and would benefit from some additional maturation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my best suggestion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this beer is in the bottles, not a whole lot you can do without some major brain damage, equipment and risk of infection.  I know you probably have the itch to brew about 10 different styles at this point, but I would buy the exact same kit (and a hydrometer), exact same brewday practices, but this time leave it in the primary for 21 days then rack/prime/bottle.  In 5-6 weeks, you can taste the two side by side and taste the difference.  If you really need to get another style under your belt, buy another ale pail and another kit.  IMHO, you (and your palette) have the opportunity to learn an invaluable lesson from this experience.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know how it turns out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T14:46:14.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5937" CreationDate="2012-01-10T14:47:01.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/article/indices/18-brewing-science/550-diacetyl-homebrew-science&quot;&gt;an article from BYO&lt;/a&gt; that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Uptake of oxygen late in fermentation leads to excessive diacetyl&#xA;  production. Yeast will begin releasing more alpha acetolactate if&#xA;  oxygen is introduced late in the fermentation. This eventually leads&#xA;  to an increase in diacetyl, so care must be taken to avoid oxygen&#xA;  pickup during beer transfers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding from the reading I'm doing is the extra oxygen will cause the yeast to produce more diacetyl.  If the oxygen is added early on, the yeast has plenty of time to clean up this extra diacetyl.  If the oxygen is added late in fermentation, the yeast has time to make the diacetyl, but not clean it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=does%20oxygenation%20produce%20more%20diacetyl?&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&amp;amp;aq=t&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla%3aen-US%3aofficial&amp;amp;client=firefox-a&quot;&gt;Here's the Google search&lt;/a&gt; I used.  Some of the links may be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T14:47:01.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5927" CreationDate="2012-01-11T14:29:54.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had been reading into high gravity beer for myself and read that you can try rocking your fermenter to put the yeast that settled to the bottom back into suspension.  The idea being that not all the yeast on the bottom is dead so you help them out by freeing them back into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T14:29:54.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="80" CreationDate="2012-01-11T17:29:34.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may need to be very patient.  My Dad used to give sloe wine a year to ferment, the results were worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want quick results from sloes, gin is the way to go.  Having said that, I leave my sloe gin a year before bottling/drinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2029" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T17:29:34.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-11T18:14:10.787" Score="2" ViewCount="1683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to put down a Hefeweizen tonight, and am pondering whether adding Irish Moss to the last 15 mins of the boil would be a good thing, or a bad thing. On the one hand, I would expect the Irish Moss to help clear up some of the unwanted cruft. On the other hand, would the Irish Moss be &lt;strong&gt;too&lt;/strong&gt; effective at cleaning up? Meaning, would the resulting beer be unnaturally clear for the Hefeweizen style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe:&#xA;- 60/40 wheat LME&#xA;- Liberty hops (alpha 3.7%) @60 mins&#xA;- liquid yeast (WLP300)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brewing experience:&#xA;- dabbled some 30 years ago&#xA;- got back into it a few months back&#xA;- have only done 2 batches previously, both extracts, the second included specialty grains steeping&#xA;- never used Irish Moss or any finings before; selected Irish Moss because one of the potential drinkers is vegetarian&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2030" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-01-11T23:52:46.717" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T01:53:36.063" Title="Irish Moss and Hefeweizen - use or avoid?" Tags="|extract|irish-moss|wheat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5944" CreationDate="2012-01-11T18:22:52.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skip the moss in my opinion.  this style is intended to be hazy and you wouldn't want to over-clear it. Clarity is also somewhat overrated in my opinion so take it with a grain of salt.  All of the Hefe's I've done have not used moss and have come out looking excellent (just enough haze in the glass to look proper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T18:22:52.313" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-11T20:17:53.037" Score="6" ViewCount="2268" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for suggestions on brands of aquarium heaters to use in a fermentation chamber I've built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My set-up is a 60 qt Igloo cooler with a custom foam insulation top cut to allow for a 5 to 6.5 gallon carboy.&#xA;Fill it up with about 5-6 gallons of water.&#xA;I have a Johnson Digital Temperature Controller with a thermowell.&#xA;During the summer I'll use the temp controller to just monitor the temperature and use frozen water bottles floating in the water to help keep the carboy at the right temperature.&#xA;But, since its the winter months now I want to use an aquarium heater to heat up the water to keep the temp consistent.&#xA;I'm thinking I would only need a 50w heater and possibly a small aquarium water pump to help circulate the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doe anyone have any suggestions of heaters that they have used successfully?&#xA;Preferably one that they have hooked up to a digital temp controller&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2021" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T12:25:45.357" Title="Aquarium water heaters for Fermentation chamber" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-11T20:31:08.380" Score="5" ViewCount="3573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started brewing so I apologize for my stupidity.  My nephew was just born today and I want celebrate by brewing a batch and storing it until his 21st birthday.  I think it would be cool to give him a bottle of beer 21 years from now that was brewed the day he was born. So I was curious if there are any particular types of beers that would be best to brew for this particular situation.  Or do all beers keep their great taste for long periods of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what storage process do you recommend? should I bottle it and keep it cold? is room temperature ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2031" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-01-14T14:17:28.487" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T17:06:40.117" Title="Best beer to brew that will last a long time" Tags="|storage|aging|brewing|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-14T14:19:48.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2012-01-11T21:02:20.543" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, higher-alcohol beers age better.  Something like a barleywine in the 10+% ABV range would likely be a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for aging 21 years, that I couldn't speak to.  I've aged Imperial Stouts up to 2 years, and they keep getting better.  Dogfish Head claims their DFH 120 will age well up to 10 years, and I think that's better than 15% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit for storage notes: I age my beers upright in my cellar, which stays between 60-65F.  Beer does spoil faster at higher temperatures, but I don't believe refrigeration is necessary.  I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/101/store&quot;&gt;this article from Beer Advocate&lt;/a&gt; that has some suggestions as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-01-11T21:27:34.807" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T21:27:34.807" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-14T14:19:48.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2012-01-11T22:10:18.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing for about a year now and have been trying to learn a lot as fast as possible. That being said I would be surprised if one of the experts in home brewing could pull off what you are trying to do, and have it taste good that is (I probably would not be that suprised). I have a 7 month old son myself and the idea is super cool. For the novelty of the idea you could make something and then give it to him on his BDay 21 years later and it would still be a cool idea, but I doubt the beer would taste all that good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try go for a very high ABV, cork it, put it in a temperature controlled area on its side and don’t move it. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2019" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T22:10:18.693" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-14T14:19:48.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5944" CreationDate="2012-01-11T23:59:02.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Irish moss is a protein coagulator, as a result it is not a primary determinant of yeast based haze.  Yeast remaining in suspension is where a good hefe gets its haze from.  Therefore, adding irish moss will not clear your hefe up much at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do add irish moss it will simply help remove some of the cold break, which is the protein source where irish moss exerts its action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most brewers forgo the irish moss in hefe simply because the yeast will make it hazy regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen little difference the few times I have brewed a hefe with or without Irish Moss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T23:59:02.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5937" CreationDate="2012-01-12T01:47:58.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if all the yeast is filtered out of the beer, if there is diacetyl precursor still in solution (alpha acetolactate) the general oxidation of the beer will cause the alpha acetolactate to be converted to diacetyl.   This is a non-enzymic, yeast-less process.  Minimizing oxygen minimizes this affect, as does minimizing alpha acetolactate content. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look here, under &quot;Beer Aging&quot; section of article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersensoryscience.wordpress.com/2010/11/18/diacetyl-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Sensory Science, Diacetyl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1841" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T01:47:58.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="60" CreationDate="2012-01-12T01:56:53.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm writing various articles about this on my blog.  Not as many posted yet as I'd like, but I also have a life and a job to attend to.  Look up the &quot;Fishbone&quot; diagram on my site for lots of good information about sources of quality issues in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersensoryscience.wordpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Sensory Science&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1841" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T01:56:53.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5958" CreationDate="2012-01-12T06:27:58.837" Score="4" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just begun sampling my first batch, and I noticed that my carbonation level can vary from bottle to bottle. Most are just about perfect, but a few have certainly been over-carbonated, practically like soda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause this? I didn't stir in my dissolved priming sugar, but I gave it nearly an hour's rest to fully homogenize before bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, should I transfer the remaining bottles to the fridge to cease further carbonation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2005" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T00:18:09.870" Title="Variable carbonation" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2012-01-12T07:03:39.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As have been said earlier, best beers for aging are those with high ABV and also those, which are very hopped since that was the idea of IPA - they have doubled or trippeled the amount of hops used during brewing and raised the ABV in it so it will last the long journey by boats to India. However best aging beers are from Trappist breweries - I had one, which was 6 years old, however it was not pretty good. I think in this batch you need to focus on hygiene on 100 %. Any bad think will destroy the beer over the 21 years. So probably you will need fresh and first clone of yeast. Barley Wine, Russian Imperial Stout, Double IPA or Eisbock will be good tips I think. &#xA;Anyway, try it, brew at least a batch of 42 bottles and you will see every half a year how doest it look like :) Keeping fingers crossed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastEditorUserId="3022" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T22:12:48.637" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T22:12:48.637" CommentCount="10" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-14T14:19:48.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3111" CreationDate="2012-01-12T07:07:53.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are doing nothing wrong at all. That is the beer, that is the culture, that is the code. It simply takes time. On Christmas day I have drunk my first imperial pilsner - it was stored for 1 year and the taste was delicious! The body was so smooth and great, nice head. One of the best beers from my production I have ever drunk. You just have to be patient and have some bottles for &quot;sample tastes&quot; - taste them after month, two, three and you will know when is the best time to drink it or give it to friends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All big industry breweries are bottling it after 2-3 weeks after brewing, so no surprise it tastes like crap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give it a time and you will be surprised how sometimes potentially bad beer can become one of the best after some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However some beer styles needs to be drank fresh - witbier, weizen, some pale ales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T07:07:53.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2012-01-12T14:53:37.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you answered the first question yourself: the uneven carbonation is the result of not stirring when you added the priming sugar. My procedure is to boil the priming sugar in a cup of water and add that first to the bottling bucket. Then I rack the beer on top of it. I find this distributes the sugar evenly throughout the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for refrigerating the bottles, I think that this would be a good precaution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T14:53:37.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2012-01-12T15:35:23.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do the same procedure as Tobias for bottleing and I do not stir and have never had uneven carbonation. More info is needed though I think. When did you bottle?  What temperature is the room that they are in/ is the room drafty?  Have you had any under carbonated beers? Be gentle while handling the bottles so they don't blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2019" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T15:35:23.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3111" CreationDate="2012-01-12T18:50:45.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first batch (if you ignore my efforts some 30 years ago) was put down in Nov 2011 and bottled in Dec; it consisted of a Cooper's Pale Ale + another 2 lbs of LME. The aroma during bottling was quite promising, but the first bottle sampled some 7-10 days later was... disappointing. But, I did tell myself to keep expectations low. Friends told me it was pretty good, so maybe I was just being too critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had another bottle of it last night, and it definitely seemed nicer, which has been the general trend of impressions (myself, my wife, my friends) since that first bottle. That's about 5 weeks in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check out this link; scroll down to the discussion under Maturing. Perhaps an extreme example, but helpful nonetheless: &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewandbeer.com/howtobrew.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://homebrewandbeer.com/howtobrew.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I've read that if you go the keggle route, the &quot;best before&quot; date seems to be 60 days after kegging. I'm unclear as to why this is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2030" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T18:50:45.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2012-01-12T19:18:34.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably stating the obvious, but avoid light exposure. Sunlight is the worst, but in a cellar, I'd be considering any/all light sources. Not as much of a concern if you're planning to open a bottle a few weeks after bottling, but when you're talking 21 years, it may factor in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Random thought: You may want to do what you can to pad/cushion the bottles. For example, if you're keeping them in a box suitable for storing bottles (cardboard separators), you may want to add &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt;. I'm not sure what material to suggest, but it'll have to be something not likely to degrade over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make this suggestion, as I expect that over time, the container of bottles will likely become forgotten about in a moment of haste (by the wrong person, or a pet running around) and quickly shoved aside. Or perhaps someone will stack something heavy on the container of bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just thinking out loud here. Long-term storage of anything, not just beer, can be problematic if not approached with &quot;what could possibly go wrong&quot; thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2030" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T19:18:34.460" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-14T14:19:48.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2012-01-12T19:22:25.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One style not already mentioned would be to brew a sour. They typically age well. For example, if you check out the back of a bottle of Boon's Mariage Parfait the best before date is typically 20+ years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1062" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T19:22:25.063" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-14T14:19:48.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2012-01-12T19:24:20.973" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I respect your intentions, it is &lt;strong&gt;highly unlikely&lt;/strong&gt; (basically impossible) that any beer you make today will be good after 10+ years of aging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask yourself this question. If you personally are &quot;into beer&quot; enough to be a home brewer, why is it that you yourself have never had a 10+ year old non-distilled, barley-based beverage? The closest thing I've had was is probably braggot (half beer - half mead), and that was probably only a year or two old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;21 years is simply far too long for a barley-based beverage that still possesses residual sugars and isn't either distilled or seriously acidified (like vinegar). Any such beverage would be very, very likely to spoil, like maybe 95 times out of 100.  (And I am a little skeptical of the big breweries' claims about cellaring their beers for 10+ years too, for the record.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, you say that you &quot;have just started brewing,&quot; (welcome to the hobby! its great!). In all likelihood, its going to take you several more years to really get good enough at brewing to make big ABV beers made for aging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="314" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T00:09:10.970" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T00:09:10.970" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-14T14:19:48.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5968" CreationDate="2012-01-12T19:30:02.460" Score="11" ViewCount="26666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made a big beer (Dogfish Head 90 minute clone) with an OG around 1.11.  I had never tried to strain wort before moving to a primary fermenter, but thought it would be a good idea since this had so many hops. So, I used the basic muslin bag and bungee cord method of putting the bag over my fermenting bucket and using the bungee cord to secure it. This seemed to work fine until I tried to remove the bag and material. When I released the bungee cord all the contents of the muslin bag fell back into the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this result was mainly due to user error (me), but is there a better way to do this? Or, don't strain the wort and let it naturally settle and use a secondary fermenter? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T08:23:41.773" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T16:04:09.640" Title="How to strain wort before primary fermentation" Tags="|techniques|wort|troubleshooting|secondary-fermentation|primary|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5965" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-01-12T19:47:02.740" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-01-12T19:47:02.740" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T19:47:02.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5966" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-01-12T19:47:02.740" Score="0" Body="A (primarily metal) container for storing and serving beer." OwnerUserId="2030" LastEditorUserId="2030" LastEditDate="2012-01-12T23:06:28.027" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T23:06:28.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5964" CreationDate="2012-01-12T21:13:19.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option is to get an appropriately sized funnel with a removable screen. I just bought one of these recently (the funnel cone is &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt;) and used it for the first time last night. The only downside is that I had to stop a couple times to unclog the screen, and of course I realized after doing so that my fingers hadn't been sterilized (should have had a container with Star-San solution nearby).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One variation on this theme is to get one of those 'gold' coffee filters and put it at the far end of a reusable grain mesh bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, just let it go into your fermenter. Careful racking should minimize the uptake of trub. That said, I think I've seen comments which say that if you can eliminate such hoppy cruft earlier rather than later, you minimize the risk of acquiring an off taste (if you happen to leave it in the fermenter for too long; the taste in question is I believe described as 'grassy').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2030" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T21:13:19.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5964" CreationDate="2012-01-12T21:29:07.057" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a large noodle strainer. place the stainer at the opening of the ale pail and steadily poor the wort through the stainer into the bucket. Then I just lift the stainer and throw away the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T21:29:07.057" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5971" CreationDate="2012-01-12T23:26:53.830" Score="12" ViewCount="18459" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you could a second bucket for the secondary fermentation. Is there any drawback to not using a carboy for this purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2034" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T04:59:09.493" Title="Why is a carboy used for secondary fermentation?" Tags="|beer|secondary-fermentation|carboy|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5969" CreationDate="2012-01-13T00:18:26.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want less head space on your secondary to reduce the amount of oxygen that comes in contact with your beer.&#xA;Once the initial fermentation is done in your bucket there is a nice thick layer of CO2 that sits in the 1.5 gallons of head space in your 6.5 gallon bucket. But, once you move it to your secondary the fermentation process is already done, so your beer won't make another thick CO2 layer to protect itself. Therefore you want to put a 5 gallon batch into a 5 gallon carboy to eliminate that head space while it clears itself up in your secondary.&#xA;You want to eliminate any chance of oxidation at this point before you bottle and enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2021" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T00:18:26.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5969" CreationDate="2012-01-13T01:19:19.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to reduce/eliminate oxygen in your beer once it's past fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic buckets let in an extraordinary amount of oxygen, over time, so you should avoid them if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's more information here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/68/whats-the-point-of-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/68/whats-the-point-of-secondary-fermentation,&lt;/a&gt; and elsewhere in the site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as a note, I never transfer to secondary, and many others here believe the same. I don't think it gives any benefit to &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T01:19:19.543" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5964" CreationDate="2012-01-13T14:49:59.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 5 gallon sized &quot;Paint Strainer&quot; bags from Lowe's. They are designed to filter out clumps of latex paint. A single bag will line a 5gal cooler or bucket perfectly. The beer gets poured in, then I lift the bag out, and it pulls out any hop debris, even from pellet hops. It's not quite fine enough to catch cold break, but I don't care about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pour 100% of my boil into a No Chill tank after the boil is over, then I transfer from the tank (once cooled) to a bucket with a paint strainer page. Pull out the bag, then transfer again to a fermentor. The first beer I did this with was a Scotch Ale that came out shockingly clear with no lagering or even a real cold crash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, I use these strainer bags things to mash with. I have an unmodified 5gal igloo cooler that I line with 2 of these bags (1 on top of the other). Bags get put in, grain goes into the bags, water added to the grain, then after the mash, I can run the wort out of the spigot or just lift the grain bags up and out, and let the wort drain that way. Basically 5gal-sized Brew In A Bag technique. Works like a charm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T14:49:59.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5969" CreationDate="2012-01-13T16:15:53.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that along with the other answers here, many times people simply trust Glass to be less likely to leach undesirables into their beer.  This may be a matter of superstition more than science, but it is a fact that plastic is porous where glass is not. Also your typical Carboy and airlock (or just a simple stopper) leaves less chance for nasties to enter your precious beer than a bucket lid might.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T16:15:53.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2012-01-13T16:27:27.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While distilling is usually illegal and pretty much straight up dangerous as hell, you could try freeze-distilling (like the methods used to make an eisbock).  The two highest ABV beers in the world, Brewdog's Tactical Nuclear Penguin (32%), and Brewdog's Sink The Bismarck! (41% abv - they outdid a competitor after the competitor topped TNP with a 40% beer) are both brewed using these processes.  Since these have higher abv's than many whiskeys and vodkas, you might be okay aging for extended periods.  I would think that the high high high alcohol would stave off most infections/spoilage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just need a chest freezer to freeze off the water and boom, ready to rock!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to use anti-oxidation caps, and I might even consider vaccum-sealing the bottles when they age (this may also be an entirely useless step).  If you're willing to make the investment, maybe consider barrel aging for a few months (years?) before bottling (you could secondary in a carboy with an s-load of oak chips if you or your wife is against the idea of oak barrels in your basement)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a +1 for making a big enough batch to try them occasionally (maybe crack one for each World Cup!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Man, now I want to do this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T16:27:27.010" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-14T14:19:48.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2012-01-13T16:50:40.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read in a couple of places (e.g. Zak Avery, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beer-pages.com/stories/greene-king-ipa.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) that Greene King have some bottles that were brewed in 1936.  From the linked article, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;'[...] brewer Craig Bennett recently tried one, which he laconically describes as &quot;a bit sour, but drinkable&quot;.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, who knows - they may last and be drinkable for long enough.  I'd say go for it, and if (as suggested) you make enough to taste them once or twice a year you'll know if they're going off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1661" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T16:50:40.513" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-14T14:19:48.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5979" CreationDate="2012-01-14T01:53:56.710" Score="4" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on brewing several versions of an IPA where I keep the grain bill the same, and just change out the hops. I will use a single hop for each batch. The idea is to learn the aroma and flavor contributions for some common hop varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found an IPA recipe that I like, and its hop schedule is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Horizon (13% AA) @ 60 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Centennial (9% AA) @ 10 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Simcoe (12 %AA) @ 5 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Amarillo (9% AA) @ 0 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my first batch, I'll be trying Cascade. The labeling on the package indicates that it is 6% AA. If I scale by %AA, I end up with the following hop schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.2 oz Cascade (6% AA) @ 60 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 oz Cascade (6% AA) @ 10 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.0 oz Cascade (6% AA) @ 5 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 oz Cascade (6% AA) @ 0 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the best way to adjust for the different hop varieties, or is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1506" LastEditorUserId="1506" LastEditDate="2012-01-14T05:11:58.573" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T05:11:58.573" Title="When modifying a recipe, should you scale hops based on alpha acids?" Tags="|hops|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5978" CreationDate="2012-01-14T02:33:48.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's a typo in your question, but your boil times changed with the Cascade version of the recipe -- all additions are boiled for 60 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided you keep the boil times for each addition the same as the original recipe, then, yes, your approach is a good one. In the substituted hop, change the amount so that the total alpha acid contribution remains the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to go by the AA% for the hops that you buy, not what's quoted elsewhere. AA% change from harvest to harvest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T02:33:48.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-14T10:36:36.210" Score="4" ViewCount="2210" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far the beer has been in primary fermentation for 11 days, and in bottles now for 4 days.&#xA;When would you expect the beer would hit optimum flavor and when will it be drinkable/pleasant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1792" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T13:00:04.983" Title="How long should I leave my wheat beer in bottles before opening" Tags="|beer|bottle-conditioning|wheat-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5980" CreationDate="2012-01-14T14:09:58.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the temperature at which you're storing it, it should be fully carbonated in 0 to 10 days.   The best way to determine this is to open one up and try it and see if it's carbonated yet.  If it's not yet, then give it a couple more days.  Most wheat beers are not really meant for aging, so it should be pleasant/drinkable as soon as it is carbonated.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, most homebrew hits optimum flavor when you have 1-3 bottles remaining out of the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T14:09:58.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5969" CreationDate="2012-01-14T16:03:55.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all you can afford or if all a brewer has is a second bucket it will be fine for doing a secondary.  You do want to use a smaller bucket if possible to minimize head space if you are using it for storage while aging or clarifying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing a true second ferment due to the addition of fruit or sugary syrups, then a plastic bucket is indeed the right choice as there will be some fresh fermentation.  And its easier to clean that out later especially if fruit was used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer is done fermenting there really is no reason to do any secondary at all.  Just let the beer sit in primary for at least 14 days in general and you'll get beer just as clear as if you used a &quot;secondary&quot; (plastic or glass).  Without the hassle of another step, more cleaning and sanitizing and less oxygen pickup in the final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T16:03:55.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5987" CreationDate="2012-01-14T17:37:00.873" Score="8" ViewCount="5193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making mead for a while and there's something I can't quite resolve. Some batches are said to have a strange, solvent-like or &quot;turpentiney&quot; after-taste. Most people don't seem to notice it or care and I've only ever noticed anything once or twice (I myself have noticed a slightly odd after-taste a few times but I wouldn't have called it &quot;turpentiney&quot;, it was very faint), but a couple people seem sensitive to it and notice it more often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use different honeys, from pasteurized Billy Bee to unpasteurized wildflower honey I buy at farmer's markets. For yeast, I use champagne yeast. I almost never use the same recipe twice, yet the 2 or 3 people that are particularly sensitive claim that they can detect this taste in almost every batch I make, and that it varies from batch to batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this common in mead? What might be causing it? Is there something that can be done to mitigate it or prevent it? It's hard for me to know for sure how bad it is since I don't seem very sensitive to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T15:10:06.943" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T13:45:12.817" Title="Strange aftertaste in mead?" Tags="|mead|off-flavor|aftertaste|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5983" CreationDate="2012-01-14T21:19:15.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of mine have had a solventy or phenolic twang when they're young.   Somewhere around a year, that finally ages out, and they taste much more pleasant after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T21:19:15.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5986" CreationDate="2012-01-15T05:26:13.347" Score="5" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello fellow home brewers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to begin an orange melomel tomorrow using this page as inspiration. After making some orange juice from the same oranges as the one's I will be using, I noticed that it already took a bit of extra effort to clean the plastic pitcher afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering I am considering leaving 6+ gallons of orange juice and honey in a brew bucket for a month, I can't help but wonder if should instead just go straight to the glass carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I have anything to worry about if I use the brew bucket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="240" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T01:25:46.087" Title="Orange juice stain the brew bucket, or even worse?" Tags="|mead|bucket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5985" CreationDate="2012-01-15T12:49:32.533" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;An extended soak of your brew bucket with warm cleanser and/or bleach or baking soda will help clear up your bucket post this ferment.  Its not something to worry about IMO.  My old buckets have definite stains from years of use but I've never had carry over flavor issues.  Its usually too dilute compared to the flavors of the next ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T01:25:46.087" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T01:25:46.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5983" CreationDate="2012-01-15T12:58:03.567" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It most certainly is a function of your fermentation profile. Reviewing your temperatures and the amount of yeast you pitch makes a difference.  Mead is also a fairly poor nutrient substrate for yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very best mead makers preach about staggered nutrient additions while also degassing the CO2 from the must during the early part of fermentation.  Yeast strain selection also plays a very big part in the outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T12:58:03.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-15T13:16:21.527" Score="6" ViewCount="30585" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the yeast will burn sugar away generating alcohol &amp;amp; CO2 for as long as it can (until the % by volume makes the brew toxic, killing the yeast off), just adding more sugar doesn't seem to the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this technically results in a sweeter (sugar remaining after yeast is no longer viable) result, carbonation drops won't work to carbonate in bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you get a sweeter result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example mead or ginger ale are typically quite sweet; how is this achieved? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some kind of sugar which is not compatible with certain yeast strains? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't seem to find any information regarding this type of brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2045" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T21:32:01.377" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T16:45:19.297" Title="How do you make a sweeter beer?" Tags="|beer|sugar|residual|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5964" CreationDate="2012-01-15T13:26:30.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also use the paint strainer method, but I use it during the boil. I have a little piece of PVC that the paint strainer is connected to using a clamp. I just toss the hops into the strainer, and then pull the strainer out when I'm ready to transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0HE-wsXN4Kc/Tq87G_Ti4PI/AAAAAAAAGL8/wWfOW4r7-D0/s576/brew8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0HE-wsXN4Kc/Tq87G_Ti4PI/AAAAAAAAGL8/wWfOW4r7-D0/s576/brew8.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2046" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T13:26:30.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5988" CreationDate="2012-01-15T13:30:25.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few techniques for making beer a little sweeter. If you're an all-grain brewer, mashing at a higher temperature leaves your wort a little less fermentable, which will leave more residual sweetness. Since brewer's yeast won't break down lactose very well, adding a little lactose will make your beer sweeter. Also, adding specialty grains such as crystal malt will add sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way you get a sweet mead is to just add a LOT of honey. Once the alcohol content gets high enough, the yeast will die off leaving behind the sweetness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2046" LastEditorUserId="2046" LastEditDate="2012-01-15T14:46:26.060" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T14:46:26.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5988" CreationDate="2012-01-15T16:15:47.037" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get residual sweetness without knocking out the yeast, you add non-fermentable sugars to the wort. To add sweetness and some body in an extract brew, lactose is the usual adjunct: 1/8 to 3/8 pound in a 5 gallon batch gives a noticable sweetness. As lactose is non-fermentable, it can be used to adjust the sweetness either by adding to the boil, or at bottling time. Similarly, Maltodextrose can also be added, although this is pretty much tasteless, and adds no sweetness, just body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In partial mash/all grain brews, adding 1/4-1 lb of light crystal (10L or less), such as carafoam/carapils will also leave a residual sweetness without contributing much color or other flavors. Darker crystals will darken the color and also add caramel flavor, and the darkest types (120L+), add dark sugar, toffee, or plum/raisin flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using non-fermentables to create residual sweetness, the yeast have not been overwhelmed by the alcohol, so you can continue to prime and carbonate in the bottle as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Caramel_malt&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crystal/Caramel Malt&lt;/a&gt; - homebrewtalk wiki&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T12:56:50.063" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T12:56:50.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5988" CreationDate="2012-01-15T16:34:45.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest, most direct way to get a sweeter beer is to use less hops, particularly the bittering addition, although other hop additions can contribute to the perception of bitterness.  You can also increase the chloride and/or sodium levels in the water to increase the malty character.  Just be careful not to overdo the sodium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-01-15T20:10:37.807" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T20:10:37.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2049" CreationDate="2012-01-15T20:24:06.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had precisely the same problem with this yeast. It had, after 48 hours, begun to activate in the main brew, and I've read in lots of places it can be a slow yeast to get going. It also apparently needs lots of oxygen to grow well, so maybe the sealed smack packs just don't favour it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2049" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T20:24:06.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2012-01-15T23:56:34.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of mine turns into dog treats using the flour/peanut butter recipe above and she loves it, however it only takes  a few cups to make a huge box of treats and since we don't want our dog getting obese I've got plenty of leftovers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a long time I've given the remainder of my grain, in plastic buckets, to my grandparents to feed to their Clydesdale horse. He loved it and he &quot;farts like a brewery horse&quot;. Unfortunately Joe the Clydesdale is no longer with us, so I've reverted to composting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short: dogs, horses and probably cows LOVE spent grain. If they have it uncooked, it needs to be used pretty quickly though because it goes off rather quickly (and attracts rats).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2050" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T23:56:34.957" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-15T23:56:34.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5997" CreationDate="2012-01-16T04:25:08.963" Score="1" ViewCount="1246" Body="&lt;p&gt;So did a tour of Odells with a buddy and his son. During the tour his son asked, &quot;Do you ever mix all the beers into one?&quot; The guide said, &quot;Like a suicide beer? Yes, we've been know to experiment. The best is an IPA and Easy Street Wheat; we call it an Easy Elephant.&quot; At the taphouse he gave us a sample.. and it was incredible! Had a sweet and malty start and a grapefruit-like and crisp finish. Now I'm on a quest to make it myself. I could make two batches and then mix them... OR I could experiment. If you were to try to make an Easy Elephant, what would you include?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1989" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T02:44:36.630" Title="Mixing Wheat and IPA for WOW" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-17T00:19:18.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5996" CreationDate="2012-01-16T15:06:43.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd make a standard Hefe grain bill (half wheat, half 2-row), add in .5lb of medium crystal, and hop it exactly like an IPA. The yeast is up to you. Do you want some hefe yeast flavor in it? Perhaps use the American Wheat yeasts like WLP320, or wb-06 dry. Or just use a standard neutral ale yeast like 1056/001/us-05. Or someing with a little character like wlp028 Kolsch, or wlp029 Scottish. Hmmm the 029 Scottish is jumping out at me for some reason. It should accent that wheaty maltiness nicely and still provide punch to the hops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the hops, use whatever kind you like. I prefer EKG, Challenger, Palisades, etc, but if you like American hops, then use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T15:06:43.527" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-17T00:19:18.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5988" CreationDate="2012-01-16T15:11:47.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a sweet fermented beverage, you need to do something to disable the yeast, so sugar can be added without fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out, sweet mead is made by adding enough honey to bring the ABV above the yeast's tolerance level, and killing it. Then honey can be added without risk of fermentation to bring the sweetness level up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermented ginger all ale is typically cold-crashed while there is remaining unfermented sugar. The cold temperatures disable the yeast, and the beer remains sweet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third way is to chemically disable the yeast. The correct dose of potassium sorbate and metabisulphite will knock the yeast out and you can sweeten to your heart's content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T15:28:33.440" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T15:28:33.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6001" CreationDate="2012-01-16T16:38:06.967" Score="3" ViewCount="683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I designed a barleywine in BeerSmith2, made it, plus I made another beer afterwords from the same grain.  My mash efficiency on the first runnings turned out to be 75% (I put the grain bill and pre-boil 1.092 and 5.85 gallons into BeerSmith2 for that).  I purposefully didn't mash-out so I could do the partigyle.  I got 3.6 gallons of 1.034 wort out of the mash tun on the second runnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I wanted to do was make a new recipe in BeerSmith2 (separate recipe for the partigyle) by duplicating the original grain bill and somehow adjusting the program so that it realized that 75% of the grain had already been accounted for, but I didn't know how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T09:22:35.433" Title="How do I calculate mash efficiency with BeerSmith2 when doing a partigyle?" Tags="|mashing|efficiency|software|partigyle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5999" CreationDate="2012-01-16T18:10:03.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I did it was to duplicate the recipe, adjust the volumes until the sparge volume on the first is 0 and the mash volume on the second is close to 0, then fiddle with the efficiency settings on the two until the estimated OG matched my measured OG.  I think it ends up around 58%/25% efficiency for the first/second batches.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.manskirtbrewing.com/recipes.shtml#ris&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Example recipe link here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously not the easiest way to do things, but I couldn't come up with a better way to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: also check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/forum/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beersmith forums&lt;/a&gt;.  I just did a search and there are several threads that talk about parti-gyle brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T18:58:02.073" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T18:58:02.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5999" CreationDate="2012-01-16T22:35:04.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you already have your wort, and know the volume and gravity, you don't need an accurate grain bill for that part, but just need to get the software to register 3.6 gallons of 1.034 wort. You can do it like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;create a new recipe and set your desired batch size. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add 1 pound of base malt, e.g. pils malt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click &quot;gravity&quot; and enter 1.034 as the target gravity - the software will now increase the amount of grain you need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click &quot;scale&quot; and enter 3.6 gallons - the amount of grain will be scaled to give 3.6 gallons at 1.034. (Since we already set the batch size in step 1, the recipe is already to scale so this part can be skipped.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want you can also approximate for color. Add 1 oz of black malt/roasted barley, then choose &quot;color&quot; and enter an estimate of your wort's color. Beersmith will scale the amount of the dark grain to approximate the color. It's usually a small amount compared to the base malt, so gravity remains unchanged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To hit the SG you'll need to add top-up water to compensate for the boil-off - since the gravity units were computed using the post-boil target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the recipe emulating what you now have going into the kettle, you can then start to add adjuncts and hops to the recipe and and the additional gravity and IBUs will be computed correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(PS: I'm using beersmith 1 - you can do the same with beersmith 2 by using the sliders for gravity and color) and presumably any other software that scales ingredients to give control over gravity, batch size and color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T09:22:35.433" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T09:22:35.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2012-01-17T00:36:49.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The priming sugar solution is much heavier than the wort, so it won't homogenize on it's own without some stirring. As other's have said, the easiest way to mix the priming solution is to pour this into the bottling bucket and rack on top, letting the natural swirling of the beer blend the two. John Palmer has a page on this - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ch 11,Priming and Bottling - p.4, Priming Solutions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T00:36:49.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5988" CreationDate="2012-01-17T02:37:13.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Traditional Techniques and Ingredients:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher mash temp.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Higher OG.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Lower attenuative yeast strains.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Increase non fermentable specialty malts (crystal/caramel malts).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Increase the Gravity to bitterness ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nontraditional Techniques and Ingredients&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast Pasteurization&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Non-fermentable sugars (splenda or stevia-sweetness plus chemical like taste; lactose-no artificial taste, but changes mouthfeel)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Filtration, back sweetening and force carbonation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T02:37:13.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5996" CreationDate="2012-01-17T02:44:36.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just make a great wheat and hop it like an IPA.  Actually, seeing how the IPA in your example was diluted 2-fold, maybe you hop it like an aggressive american pale ale.&#xA;Seeing how &lt;a href=&quot;http://odellbrewing.com/beers/classic/easy_street&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;easy street wheat&lt;/a&gt; is an American wheat beer you can ferment the whole batch with one yeast.  However pitching more than one yeast (yeast blend) works well too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T02:44:36.630" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-17T02:44:36.630" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-17T14:22:20.840" Score="2" ViewCount="712" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you all in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finished my first brew from an extract kit, a Amber Ale. I added vanilla bean in secondary (4 whole beans) but followed the recipe to the tee. Beer finished and carbonated well. Its been in bottle for a little over 2 weeks. I finally refrigerated one last night and tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Results are not promising. What I wanted was a mellow malty red ale, but it is way too bitter for my taste, almost like a weak IPA. The recipe I used called for bittering hops and aroma hops at the end. I am pretty sure next time I will cut the hops in half at minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I was worried the four whole vanilla beans I put in wouldn’t be enough to change the flavor profile, but I was way wrong, its too much vanilla. The flavor is good on impact to the tongue, but the vanilla leaves an odd after taste that I can’t really describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question #1 - What is the best way to kill some of the bitterness and let the caramel malt flavor shine through? Simply half the amount of hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question #2 - Will the bitterness mellow at all if I let it sit in the bottles for a week or two more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1957" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T06:32:04.230" Title="Two part question on my first brew batch" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6005" CreationDate="2012-01-17T15:22:21.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you are using pellet hops then you should add about 15% less than the recipe calls for (this is stated a few times in Charlie Papazian's Complete Joy of Homebrewing book).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vanilla will add its own bitterness and this may be part of what you're tasting and attributing to the hops, more time will help the flavors meld better and some of the bitterness will go down, I'd say try another one in a couple of weeks and see if there is any change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T15:22:21.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6005" CreationDate="2012-01-17T15:22:29.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We'll have to know more about your recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What were the amounts of Amber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What were the hops, amounts, and times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We need to know your gravity to bitterness ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to answer number 1 without that, but in general I'd say earlier hop additions will add bitterness, while later hop additions will add flavor and aroma. So, is it too bitter (which might mean too much bitterness for too little sweetness) or is it too hoppy (which would indicate too much late hopping). Again, that's not a set in stone rule; more of a rule of thumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for number 2, bitterness will decrease over time, but it might take more than 2 weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you, I'd bottle it and leave it alone for at least a month (I know, that's asking the impossible). Try it again in a month. If it's good, you're ready to drink. If not, wait again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's always a chance that the recipe itself wasn't quite right and the beer won't ever taste great, but I'd at least let it mellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T15:22:29.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6030" CreationDate="2012-01-17T15:29:43.300" Score="5" ViewCount="4726" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any particular safety or damage concerns with brewing in a basement?  Things I'm thinking of are damage from moisture, possible fire or maybe gasses emitted from the propane tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen basement setups on the internet, but I'm wondering about any special considerations these people have taken that I wouldn't have seen in a picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-12-06T14:30:13.473" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T14:30:13.473" Title="Concerns with brewing indoors with propane" Tags="|propane-burner|safety|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6010" CreationDate="2012-01-17T15:35:04.790" Score="3" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan on brewing a porter next week that calls for a American Ale yeast.  But my basement temperature would be perfect for using a California Lager yeast (aka Anchor Steam yeast).  I've seen some Baltic Porter recipes that look good and that use the California Lager yeast, so I'm tempted to swap the yeast.  Generally speaking, what changes are recommended (if any) if I were to make such a switch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, this is the yeast pack I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/wyeast-california-lager.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/wyeast-california-lager.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Says 100 billion cells...wow these things have come a long way since I used to dabble in home breweing years ago!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2055" LastEditorUserId="2055" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T21:47:44.157" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T21:47:44.157" Title="What changes needed to recipe when switching Ale to Lager yeast" Tags="|yeast|recipe|lager|ale|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6009" CreationDate="2012-01-17T15:53:48.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing at all! Just switch the yeast and see how you like it.  Changing the yeast WILL change the character of the finished beer, but you can go back and adjust based on what you taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that when you do this you will most likely need to calculate the proper pitching rate for the new yeast in this recipe. Also due to the lower temps you can expect a longer fermentation.  This goes doubly so if you want to perform true lagering where you age the beer very cold for a significant period or time (several weeks to several months).  Another addition to the process you will likely want to perform is a Diacetyl rest (a few days at higher temps) near the end of fermentation (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/Diacetyl_Time_Line.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/Diacetyl_Time_Line.pdf&lt;/a&gt; for more details)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastEditorUserId="1737" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T20:16:50.063" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T20:16:50.063" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6008" CreationDate="2012-01-17T17:47:55.907" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;do not burn propane indoors without ventilation, it produces carbon dioxide when burned, this could potentially fill up your basement and suffocate you. Also incomplete combustion of propane will produce carbon monoxide which is toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T17:47:55.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6005" CreationDate="2012-01-17T19:44:19.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extract recipes often times have the opposite result: they are too syrupy sweet, sometimes referred to as &quot;cloyingly&quot; sweet. Furthermore, a standard Amber Ale shouldn't be too bitter to begin with, typically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the most obvious answer for your extra bitterness is a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;recipe malfunction&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Either you added the hops in the wrong way (too much up front, not enough late in the boil), or perhaps the store you bought them from mixed up the labeling or packaging. For example, if you asked for a nice German hop like Hallertaur, and the shop accidentally gave you a newer, high alpha (meaning highly bitter) variety like Warrior, your beer could EASILY be 3-4 times as bitter as you intended. Or perhaps you purchased pre-hopped malt extract and the shop didn't realize this and gave you another dose of bittering hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you boil for just 60 minutes? How quickly did you get the boiled wort cooled down beneath a simmer once you were done boiling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that I suspect whatever happened here was a one time freak occurrence. Don't be afraid to try another Amber recipe again, and stick with the hop schedule they give you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T19:44:19.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6016" CreationDate="2012-01-17T19:57:44.433" Score="5" ViewCount="1913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fully acknowledge that the internet is a place of truly limitless (and often incorrect/misinformed) information, yet here I am asking this question on an internet forum.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on bottling a fig gose I made a few weeks back, and recently had a question with a professional brewer/firkin specialist about priming.  He stated that he NEVER uses corn sugar for priming, as it gives beer 'that homebrewed' character.  Has anyone done a side-by-side on fermented beer?  I have several process-oriented problems that can lead to 'that homebrewed beer' character, but I am trying to systematically eliminate them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going to try this tonight just for laughs, but does anyone else have an opinion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T19:41:25.260" Title="DME for priming" Tags="|priming|priming-sugar|dme|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6014" CreationDate="2012-01-17T20:11:21.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that the amount of corn sugar used for priming is so small as to be largely unnoticeable.  However, I see no reason why out can't prime with DME, you'll simply need to figure out exactly how much DME to use (and probably still dissolve in water to aid in mixing evenly) to hit your specific carbonation target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A useful calculator for this can be found at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/carbonation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/carbonation.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it is widely reported that Bottle Conditioning using DME results in significantly longer time to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastEditorUserId="1737" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T20:20:31.773" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T20:20:31.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6014" CreationDate="2012-01-17T20:22:56.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done tests using corn sugar, cane sugar, brown sugar, honey, DME and force carbing, then doing blind tastings.  Not a single taster could tell which was which nor expressed a preference for one over another.  The other problem with priming with DME is that you don't know how fermentable DME is, so you have no way of accurately priming your beer.  Sugar is tasteless, contrary to the OP, and reliable.  It is a myth that it gives beer a &quot;homebrew&quot; flavor or that DME produces better carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T20:22:56.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6014" CreationDate="2012-01-17T20:23:14.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of the award winning recipes in brewing classic styles call for sugar additions, and significantly more than a priming amount. I think that's a myth unless your adding a huge amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, although DME would work, it is a little  harder for your yeast to ferment. I would think in a big beer, feeding stressed yeast maltose is more likely to leave a homebrew character than sucrose or dextrose&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T20:23:14.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6008" CreationDate="2012-01-17T22:43:06.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Propane indoors would indeed be a bad idea.  What about switching to an electric based method like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cedarcreeknetworks.com/heatstick.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;heatstick&lt;/a&gt;?  The heatsticks are a great option if you have GFI outlets, or can install them.  With two of them (plugged into different circuits) you should be able to boil quite quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T22:43:06.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2012-01-18T00:18:09.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the other answers have addressed your specific problem but I wish include my experience for posterity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to have a similar problem with carbonation drops and it turned out my issue was that I wasn't leaving the beer to condition in the right environment for the right amount of time. For me it was too cold &amp;amp; too short a time. Try waiting longer, though be wary of bottle bombs if some are over carved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T00:18:09.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6037" CreationDate="2012-01-18T00:35:29.253" Score="7" ViewCount="7207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been vegan since 2000.  So lactose is out for my brews.  What would be a good substitute?  I have seen people suggest maltodextrin as it is an unfermentable sugar, but it doesn't add any sweetness.  Others have suggested adding an artificial sweetener to add some sweetness.  Which basically means adding two things to get the effect of lactose.  Anyone have any other ideas or experiences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T23:06:33.180" Title="Vegan option for lactose?" Tags="|sweetness|lactose|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6020" CreationDate="2012-01-18T01:11:25.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try bumping your OG and mash temp to increase the amount of non-fermentable sugars.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the style, you may need to look for other ways of adding some of the flavors that the lactose may have provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T01:11:25.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-18T02:17:00.970" Score="3" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I’m really new to this&#xA;I started off making cider&#xA;Since I juiced my own apples, I used the method of pasteurisation that kills off wild yeast by heating the gallon of juice on a stove while adding sugar&#xA;I allowed the cider to cool, and then added the yeast&#xA;It’s only been about 16 hours, and tiny bubbles are in the water of the vapour lock, but I’m worried I might not have let the cider cool down enough before the yeast was added, as it only cooled for half an hour&#xA;Can I add more yeast to the mix if in a few days it isn't showing any signs of fermentation? Or do you thing the batch will be alright, or should I just chuck it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2057" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T12:03:48.210" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T13:50:23.640" Title="Can you add more yeast into a batch of cider if you think you've killed it?" Tags="|yeast|carbonation|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6020" CreationDate="2012-01-18T02:54:08.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would depend on you having a kegging system, but if you force carb, you could take a page from the winemakers books and kill off the yeast through whatever means (a combination of potassium sorbate and potassium metabisulfite being suggested by JackSmith as the winemakers approach), and then back sweeten with your choice of sweetener (e.g. some malt extract).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastEditorUserId="1561" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T14:39:21.860" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T14:39:21.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6005" CreationDate="2012-01-18T06:32:04.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say this was your first brew batch? You're braver than I was with my first brew batch (by adding an extra ingredient not specifically called for in the recipe). :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would do well to provide more details around your recipe, as we're taking some approximate stabs at what might be going on here. Knowing the details would help provide a more precise response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also relating to the recipe question: How many gallons of water went into your boil? Kit beers don't usually provide enough LME for 5 gallons; when I put down my first kit beer, my LHBS easily persuaded me to buy another 2 lbs of pale LME (from their bulk supply) to add in right at the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a recipe which explicitly calls for the addition of vanilla, you might want to select a recipe which explicitly calls for it. I'd be wary about making arbitrary substitutions (eg, vanilla beans instead of vanilla extract) unless you feel extremely confident that you'll most likely get the desired results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I would recommend picking a recipe well within your comfort zone. Actually, pick 3-5, make one of them your &quot;this is my next batch&quot; choice, and let the other recipes simmer at the back of your mind; try to set them up in an order you'd like to do them, talk to your friends/fellow brewers, take any criticisms with a grain of salt (brew what you want to enjoy, not necessarily what others think would be &quot;a better beer&quot;), and rearrange the order of priority over the intervening days/weeks as you see fit. The choices of recipes can be overwhelming, but there's plenty of time to try quite a few of them over the course of a year. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the tangent; as I've only been brewing for a couple months (and 3 beer recipes) these thoughts have been figuring prominently these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2030" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T06:32:04.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6029" CreationDate="2012-01-18T06:57:01.767" Score="4" ViewCount="2727" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just pitched a whole 35mls vial of White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast into a 1 gallon batch of brown ale wort. I only intended to pitch half of the vial, but my brain turned off at exactly the wrong moment and I didn't stop myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1807/why-is-it-bad-to-pitch-too-much-yeast&quot;&gt;pitching too much yeast&lt;/a&gt; can affect the flavor. Is there anything I can do to counteract the effect of excess yeast? Would lowering the fermentation temp help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T15:17:25.293" Title="Can I compensate for pitching too much yeast?" Tags="|yeast|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6020" CreationDate="2012-01-18T12:11:05.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think about what lactose provides to the beer, and adjust your recipe and processes to try to compensate for those things.  You can reduce the bittering hops to increase the perceived sweetness.  For a &quot;thicker&quot; mouthfeel, use Carapils or flaked oats or barley.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T12:11:05.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6022" CreationDate="2012-01-18T13:50:23.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;no worries, you can add more yeast if fermentation hasn't started after a day or two. In the future don't add yeast until it has cooled to 70-75F or below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T13:50:23.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6031" CreationDate="2012-01-18T14:40:43.757" Score="3" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any experience with trying to use a traditional food mill to crush grain?  I'm afraid that I won't be able to get as fine of a crush as I need, plus it might be a pain in the neck to mill 10-15 lbs in such a small, non-motorized mill.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long and short, my wife and I have some $ to spend @ Williams-Sonoma, and was looking for good things to buy that can assist in the 'brewing' element of our cooking life!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the one I was looking at:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/all-clad-food-mill/?pkey=cspecialized-kitchen-tools&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/all-clad-food-mill/?pkey=cspecialized-kitchen-tools&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T15:17:56.180" Title="Traditional Food Mills as a Grain Mill / Dough to Blow @ W-S" Tags="|mill|grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6025" CreationDate="2012-01-18T14:53:05.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you will be fine. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew_FAQ.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;white labs&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;White Labs Pitchable yeast is packaged with 70 to 140 billion yeast cells, which corresponds approximately to a 1-2 liter size starter. Lag times are typically between 12-24 hours for a normal strength brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 5 gallon brew with ale yeast 150 to 250 billion cells is normal, with up to 400 billion being ok without causing any problems (figures from the same page). Scaling that down to a 1 gallon brew, that's 30-50 billion cells, with 80 billion being a safe upper limit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 30 days in the vial, White labs say that yeast viability is down to 75-85% - ca. 50-100 million so we are already close to the safe pitching limit. If the vial was older still then I think there is no reason to worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the lag time - how long before active fermentation starts after pitching the yeast. If it's more than 5 hours then don't worry about it - the yeast will have needed to bud to increase the population, meaning that your pitching rates were fine to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel you do need to compensate for over-pitching, you can do this by brewing the same type of wort again and add this to your existing ferment, after racking it to a larger vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although pitching too much yeast can cause off flavors, these are only ball-park figures - a little more a little less is fine in a homebrew setting. Good temperature control will have a much greater impact on flavor that the small overpitch that you may have here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T15:17:25.293" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T15:17:25.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6008" CreationDate="2012-01-18T14:59:54.073" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several issues with a large propane burner used indoors (or natural gas/methane for that matter - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.need.org/needpdf/infobook_activities/SecInfo/PropaneS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;propane is derived from NG&lt;/a&gt;, in fact).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issues with a large open flame on a mobile base inside your house are obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SVTSs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The burner would have to be situated at a distance from any combustibles, similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dps.state.ak.us/fire/teb/docs/woodstovesafety.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;safely installing a wood stove&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there's the gas itself.  Unlike &lt;a href=&quot;http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090820055314AAQ9YGu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;natural gas/methane&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Is_propane_heavier_than_air&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Propane is heavier than air&lt;/a&gt;, so any leaks in the system will cause the propane to pool where you can't smell it.  Then it will find an ignition source, and you can fill in the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next comes combustion.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thermojetstove.com/combustion.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Propane&lt;/a&gt; (and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.naturalgas.org/overview/combust.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;natural gas&lt;/a&gt;) combustion byproducts are CO2 (carbon dioxide) and water.  Innocuous enough, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thermojetstove.com/combustion.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;however&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there is not enough oxygen available for complete combustion, some&#xA;  unburned fuel will escape and its energy will be lost.  Usually this&#xA;  takes the form of carbon monoxide being formed in place of carbon&#xA;  dioxide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.silentshadow.org/the-dangers-of-carbon-monoxide.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carbon monoxide&lt;/a&gt; can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.propane101.com/carbonmonoxideandpropane.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kill you&lt;/a&gt; before you know it's there.  Even the non-poisonous carbon dioxide can be a problem by replacing the breathable air in your brewing room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there's the more mundane issue of water vapor.  I boil off almost 2 gallons in an hour.  That liquid has to go somewhere.  In your house, that somewhere is into your walls, ceiling, woodwork, etc, where it will make a lovely environment for mold.  Imagine dumping 2 gallons of water on the floor of your kitchen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while you &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; do it with adequate ventilation and fire-proofing, it's definitely not something I &lt;strong&gt;would&lt;/strong&gt; do.  The risks - especially the heaver-than-air bit - far outweigh the benefits, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T14:59:54.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6028" CreationDate="2012-01-18T15:17:56.180" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I will never hand-crank a mill again :)  That said, the type of mill you linked would not be useful for crushing grain.  That's a food mill, which is used to squish soft foods through a steel grate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3gmE1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be good for crushing fruits for adding to beer, but not for crushing grain.  If that's what you're looking for, you want a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/all-grain-brewing/all-grain-equipment/grain-mills.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grain mill&lt;/a&gt;, which has heavy plates or rollers to crack the grain and release the endosperm from the husk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many brewers (myself included) started with a hand-cranked &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/all-grain-brewing/all-grain-equipment/grain-mills/victoria-mill-with-high-hopper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Corona or Victoria&lt;/a&gt; grain mill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UU9jz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While that can be motorized (sort of), most of us end up with a motorized roller mill, like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.monsterbrewinghardware.com/mm-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MonsterMill MM-2&lt;/a&gt; I use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sl5zi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Williams-Sonoma, how about a big stainless spoon?  Maybe a stainless colander or two?  Some containers for storing grain/hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T15:17:56.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6033" CreationDate="2012-01-18T16:04:40.863" Score="0" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done 2 full boils and probably 10 partial boils since I've started homebrewing.  In both full boils, my OG has been significantly higher.   Most recently, by .02 (expected 1.062 measured 1.082).  None of the partial boils were off by this level.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?  Am I extracting more points from the specialty grains with 5g vs. 2g?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/BelgianDubbel.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/BelgianDubbel.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="921" LastEditorUserId="921" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T16:27:19.750" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T17:46:30.363" Title="OG higher w/ full vs. partial boil?" Tags="|original-gravity|partial-boil|full-boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6032" CreationDate="2012-01-18T16:48:29.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plugged your recipe into Beersmith, which comes up with a max OG of 1.064, assuming 100% efficiency extracting sugar from the 1/2 lb of specialty grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How did you get 1.082?  Guesses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boiled the wort down too far and concentrated it.  You'd have to boil off a whole gallon to get to 1.082, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hydrometer is bad - calibrate in 60F distilled water to see&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Misreading the hydrometer or miscalculating temperature adjustement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bubbles sticking to the hydrometer, raising it up in the test tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight/volume of ingredients off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T16:48:29.527" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-18T20:49:21.270" Score="7" ViewCount="9700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can update this later with my specific notes/ingredients, but for now, just the basics...5 gallon brew of an irish stout. The morning after I put it in the fermenting bucket, I woke up to a mess. Foam had come out through the airlock and there was liquid and foam all over the lid and down the side. The amount of pressure building inside made it seem like the lock would blow off at any second (in fact when I removed it to clean, foam shot out through the hole.) I quickly found some instructions for a blow off type rig which was basically leaving the base of the airlock in the lid, attaching a tube to it, and running the tube into a gallon jug of half water/half sanitizer. The remainder of that day, it was bubbling furiously. It looked like rapidly boiling water. Since then however, I haven't really noticed any bubbling. There is pressure in the bucket still, because if I lightly push on the lid, gas will bubble through into the jug. Do I have anything to worry about here? The bucket is in a dark 65-70 degree closet. Any advice would be great. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-09-18T21:08:06.117" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T07:43:34.230" Title="First batch. Tons of bubbling first day and half, little to none now" Tags="|fermentation|first-time|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6034" CreationDate="2012-01-18T20:56:32.480" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely nothing to worry about.  A few notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Active fermentation can certainly die down after 2-3 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Airlock bubbles &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; indicate active fermentation.  A &lt;strong&gt;lack&lt;/strong&gt; of airlock bubbles &lt;strong&gt;does not&lt;/strong&gt; necessarily indicate a lack of active fermentation.  CO2 is sneaky - it can get out a lot of places besides through your airlock liquid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;70F is getting on the warm side for most yeast strains.  Fermentation will produce heat of its own, meaning your beer could be several degrees warmer.  It won't ruin your beer, but could produce undesirable flavors from the yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So relax and let it roll for a week or so before you take a hydrometer reading to see how far fermentation has actually progressed.  Checking the gravity is the only &lt;strong&gt;reliable&lt;/strong&gt; way to know how fermentation is progressing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T21:52:15.697" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T21:52:15.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-18T23:45:15.957" Score="2" ViewCount="1553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was listening to one of the recent Q&amp;amp;A Brew Strong podcasts and Palmer offhandedly mentioned leaving the lid of your kettle off while chilling wort to prevent condensate (with DMS in it) from dripping back into your wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone out there actually leave the lid off your pot while chilling? I've always been far more concerned with infection than a little DMS, but I'm considering leaving the top off while chilling my next batch that is heavy in pils malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T15:29:54.093" Title="Risk/Reward Question: Should you leave the lid off while chilling wort that is high in DMS?" Tags="|chilling|dms|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6020" CreationDate="2012-01-19T00:03:00.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash at a higher temperature, around 158 F. This will decrease the fermentability of the wort and make it fuller-bodied and sweeter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add some carapils, maltodextrin, or carafoam. All of these increase head retention and body a bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Treat your water to favor the flavors. A 2/1 Chloride/Sulfate ratio with 100+ ppm of Chloride will help, as will some additional Sodium (but keep Sodium below 150 ppm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the amount of low lovibond crystal/caramel malt you use. For example, if you have some Crystal 20 at a rate of 5% of the batch, up that to more like 10%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce the astringency you introduce for dark grains (like chocolate malt and roasted barley). This can be done in a number of ways, including using Carafa Special (dehusked chocolate) or De-bittered black malt. Alternatively, you can steep your dark grains separately (below 170 F) or &quot;cold brew&quot; them like a coffee then add them after the mash to help avoid tannin extraction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's really a lot you can do. I actually stopped using lactose even in sweet stout so I didn't have to worry about it impacting lactose-intolerant friends, and I employ most of these techniques when making a sweet stout. If you're interested in a longer write-up, feel free to hit up an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madalchemist.com/archives/mashing-the-perfect-sweet-stout/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article on my site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T00:03:00.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6036" CreationDate="2012-01-19T01:13:36.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well in theory you've driven off most of the SMM by the time you start chilling so the issue should be fairly minimal at that point.  I usually chill with the lid off, but when I do with the lid on I can't say I've ever noticed a difference or an issue with DMS.  I use pilsner quite a bit and I do a 75 minute boil when I use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T01:13:36.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6040" CreationDate="2012-01-19T05:49:20.867" Score="7" ViewCount="17465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only bought one bag of Irish Moss in at least 2 years.  It's so cheap but is there really any need to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T16:36:16.440" Title="Does Irish Moss expire?" Tags="|irish-moss|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6039" CreationDate="2012-01-19T14:57:45.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Irish moss is a dried, dead product (seaweed), which if kept in a air-tight jar out of sunlight will last pretty much indefinitely. I'm using mine that I bought 4 years ago and the wort still clears nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other anecdotal evidence, david_42, senior member on HBT &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/irish-moss-shelf-life-199572/#post2324253&quot;&gt;writes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Well, I'm about half way though a 4 oz bag after 6 years. Seems to be doing the job still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think you're fine with 2 year old moss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T14:57:45.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6045" CreationDate="2012-01-19T15:23:17.677" Score="3" ViewCount="691" Body="&lt;p&gt;Historically, I've cooled my wort with a immersion chiller and siphoned it off to the carboy once it gets down to a reasonable temperature.  I recently installed a false bottom and ball valve.  This works well and the elbow attached to the ball valve avoids most of the hop material (whole leaf), but I am seeing a good bit of cold break going into the carboy, which i could avoid with the siphon.  Am I missing something here?  Would whirl pooling work (i'd think not, since the material would just collect in the center of the false bottom and go through the screen)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a huge problem with the cold break, but my main purpose of installing the false bottom was to limit the trub from transferring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: here is a shot of the latest batch after draining through the false bottom: &lt;a href=&quot;https://plus.google.com/photos/109320349507283895324/albums/posts/5698298615184160834&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://plus.google.com/photos/109320349507283895324/albums/posts/5698298615184160834&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastEditorUserId="2064" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T18:52:39.447" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T18:19:23.447" Title="Cold Break with a False Bottom" Tags="|equipment|racking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6036" CreationDate="2012-01-19T15:29:54.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard the same podcast (I think it was the BeerSmith homebrewer round table with Gordon Strong and Denny Conn) and was surprised by that comment as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I've just started chilling with the lid off (my wife got rid of the lid that was big enough to cover the keggle) and haven't noticed any perceptible difference in flavor.  Prior to this I was concerned with airborne bacteria, but as long as you are pitching a good healthy portion of yeast (preferably with a starter), I don't think you have much to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T15:29:54.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5782" CreationDate="2012-01-19T15:36:57.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am pretty sure he is talking about complementing the extract with your own mash, not re-mashing the extract.  I doubt you will get any more efficiency out of the extract, since the starches have already been converted at a certain temp to create the different sugar types.  You cannot change the sugar types once this is done, which is why you can only ferment out so low with extract.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mash additional grains at a low temp, they will create more fermentable sugars that you can use to complement the extract to make a beer that appears to attenuate more (because the % attenuation of the combined wort will be higher).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T15:36:57.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6041" CreationDate="2012-01-19T17:39:23.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking into this last weekend. My mentor has been brewing for 10 years and he says whirl pooling within the immersion coils will collect the sediment and then you can open the valve and drain the wort into primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my setup that I will be using in the next day or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*create a whirl pool using a power drill and wand/paddle attachment.&#xA;*run the drill for 30-40 seconds within the chiller's coils&#xA;*chill the wort (during which time the heavier trub is pulled into the vortex)&#xA;*open valve and drain into primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Centripetal force will pulls the heavier trub to the center of the vortex, while the lighter wort will be pushed to the walls of the pot. open the valve and the wort drains off without the trub. hopefully that makes sense. (it's hard to explain without pictures and a white board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;my frist attempt at whirlpooling was sucessful, but not what I expected. I hit the wort with the power drill contraption full power. Almost sent the worth all over the basement. the wort aerated very well, but the trub was pulled to the top, suspended in the foam rather than being pulled into the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transferring into primary appeared clean to me. It was opaque, but didn't contain hops or other solids. I was greedy at the end and tipped the kettle to get the last 1&quot; of wort. that was a mistake, pulled in a lot of trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the angle of everything was awkward too. the paddle is 32&quot; and the kettle was already at waist height. next time I will try whirlpooling on the floor and then raise the kettle and begin the cold break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastEditorUserId="1950" LastEditDate="2012-01-20T18:19:23.447" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T18:19:23.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6041" CreationDate="2012-01-19T18:36:07.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold break in the fermenter is not a problem.  It's even been cited as a yeast nutrient.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T18:36:07.783" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6041" CreationDate="2012-01-19T22:41:27.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a false bottom and your dip tube comes from your valve and goes to the center of the FB you will collect much of the cold break.  The holes in the FB are not fine enough to &quot;strain&quot; much of it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my kettle, I pump while chilling to create the whirlpool.  I then pull the chiller out while letting it continue to whirlpool for another 5-10 minutes.  (Mainly because you don't get a good whirlpool with the chiller in.  The wort moves fine, but the coils create too much turbulance to get any type of decent cone of debris).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dip tube comes off the valve and makes a 90 degree turn torwards the side wall of the pot.  I still get some break and hops, but much of it stays in the center of the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to use an FB in the kettle, but went to the side wall pickup set up simply because I didn't want all the hop debris and break in my fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now whether it matters if break material gets in the fermentor is a different debate and not really part of your specific question about FB mechanics and equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T22:41:27.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6080" CreationDate="2012-01-19T23:15:49.970" Score="8" ViewCount="2397" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somewhere I remember a mention that a &quot;more-modern&quot; technique in brewing meads involves a regular schedule of adding yeast nutrients while in the primary. I was never able to find the reference again and have so far been unable to find another source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know honey itself does not contain the ideal amounts of nutrients for the yeast (ignoring and fruit, spices, or other items I may also add to the must). When should I add yeast nutrients and how much to add?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="240" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T20:23:56.183" Title="Yeast nutrient schedule for meads?" Tags="|yeast|mead|honey|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6545" CreationDate="2012-01-19T23:20:01.537" Score="3" ViewCount="1680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been a batch sparger for many years, but after moving from propane to electric, the new rig can also fly sparge, so I've been trying that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first two beers came out with a permanent haze, despite using isinglass finings and cold conditioning, and there is a noticeable astringency - it tastes a bit like iced tea. I'm guessing I have oversparged - final runnings were 1.004 and the sparge liquor was 82C, which I now know to be way too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to improve the flavor or remove the tannins? The beer is a Bass ale clone, and London Pride clone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: as brewchez suggests, I'll be fixing my process - I've calibrated the RTDs so sparge temp should now be correct, and I've got a refractometer and pH meter to monitor the sparge. But is there anything I can do to improve these 20 gallons of beer? How about gelatin, will that strip out some tannins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-01-22T23:15:02.000" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T22:53:02.860" Title="can I fix an oversparged brew?" Tags="|sparge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6064" CreationDate="2012-01-20T04:18:28.863" Score="6" ViewCount="13753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just put down my first brew and should have bottled it last week but had something come up.  How long will it be good for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I bottle it this weekend will it still be good or is there something I need to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2069" LastEditorUserId="240" LastEditDate="2012-01-26T06:42:45.107" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T21:32:05.663" Title="How long can homebrew stay in the primary fermenter?" Tags="|beer|bottling|primary|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1087" CreationDate="2012-01-20T07:09:09.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dry yeast, wet yeast thing has been debated forever.  The fact of the matter is this, - once you have re hydrate your dormant yeast, it's wet.  So, all yeast is wet.  All fungi need water to reproduce, as a matter of a fact, everything needs water to reproduce.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the dormant yeast has some sort of additive that might taint the taste of the beer, there is no difference.  I always re hydrate my dry yeast with pure water and some corn sugar...I'll have a bubbling air lock in just a few hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the argument stems from the fact that many home brewers see faster yeast action with wet yeasts and therefor think it's better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2070" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T07:09:09.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2012-01-20T08:13:54.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, only Barley Wine ages fair and even then, it's not 20 years...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tell ya' what.  Brew up a beer, then when he's 9, give him a sip and say, &quot;No, just 9 more years to go and you can legally drink in Canada.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2070" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T08:13:54.543" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-20T08:13:54.543" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-20T13:00:18.490" Score="7" ViewCount="3732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am moving into a new house, and the garage in the back garden is just screaming out to be converted into a home brewery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realise planning a brewing space depends on a lot of specifics (space available, equipment used etc) so rather than focus on my own specific requirements, I was hoping that the group could share any plans or ideas on how best to layout a brewing space in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any practical do’s and don’ts, have you done anything to your brewing area that has made life easier, do you have any advice on storing equipment and ingredients etc.? Assuming you have lights, electricity and a water supply, where should you go from there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1795" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T21:35:10.273" Title="How should I design my new home brewing space?" Tags="|equipment|ingredients|brewing|brewery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-20T20:36:58.220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6054" CreationDate="2012-01-20T17:17:57.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remodeled my garage into a brewing space a few years back and the best thing I did was put in a floor drain and slope the concrete floor 1/8&quot;/ft. down to it.  It makes spills and cleanup easy to deal with.  Leave yourself plenty of space for shelves and cabinets for storage.  If you can work in a sink and under counter water heater, so much the better.  I did without for the first 6 years or so and just installed them last fall.  Made a big difference in brewing ease and comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T17:17:57.647" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-20T20:36:58.220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6050" CreationDate="2012-01-20T17:58:05.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An average beer can remain in the primary fermenter for many weeks before encountering problems … anywhere from 2 to 6 weeks is going to be fine.  The primary concern with extended time leaving the beer in the primary is off-flavors due to autolysis of the yeast.  A week or two is no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(BTW, 22°C (~72°F) is pretty hot, especially for an ambient temperature; the beer itself is going to  be 5-10°F hotter due to fermentation being exothermic.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T17:58:05.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6050" CreationDate="2012-01-20T18:25:32.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At that temperature, I wouldn't leave for more than 3 weeks max. Yeast metabolism is proportional to temperature. You can chill the beer now down to 5C or lower, so that it drops clear ready for bottling. The rapid change in temperature will also cause the yeast to build trehalose reserves and go dormant, which will keep them in better shape and help avoid yeast bite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T18:25:32.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6065" CreationDate="2012-01-20T19:17:04.977" Score="14" ViewCount="18085" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously, it can be done, as dry yeast works for fermenting beer.  I go sometimes a month or two between batches, and carrying over one yeast culture across beers seems a bit of a pain.  How is dried yeast made/ packaged?  Is it something a homebrewer can reasonably do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2022-11-25T15:40:25.833" Title="Can I dry my own yeast to make it relatively shelf stable? How?" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6058" CreationDate="2012-01-20T19:46:29.730" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the process of commercially drying yeast is straightforward - it involves a partial vacuum or a stream of filtered air to make the liquid suspending the yeast evaporate faster - and it's probably difficult to reach the levels of hygiene required in a homebrew setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to preserve yeast for a long period, 1 year or more, you can store the yeast with glycerine and keep it in the freezer.  There's a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/guide-making-frozen-yeast-bank-35891/&quot;&gt;writeup&lt;/a&gt; on HBT with the process and equipment needed. It's fairly simple and achieves good results. I've successfully brewed with yeast that I froze 3 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you don't freeze the yeast, but keep the yeast in the fridge, the yeast remain in better condition in glycerine than when kept in wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are already making a starter then freezing is a simple process that allows you to keep a variety of strains in your yeast bank over a long period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T19:46:29.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6054" CreationDate="2012-01-20T19:55:44.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you want to build a brewery, I am assuming you are talking about indoors.  Space, ventilation, accessibility to water, and, if you're going electric, power are big considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The space is obvious.  Brewing equipment takes up some space.  Ventilation is important for 2 reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you're married, and your spouse is not as hardcore a brewer as you are, you definitely do not want to stink up the house.  Doing so will make your life far more difficult than it has to be.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you are using natural gas or propane, you want to make sure you have plenty of air flow, as this can be dangerous indoors.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend going electric, which will probably require you running your own dedicated GFCI circuit(s)... 240V 60A electric cable (#6) is pretty expensive and frustrating to install, so the distance to your distribution box should also be a consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plumbing is also something to consider.  You will want source water and drainage in almost every case.  Sanitizing, filling your pots, wort chillers, and cleanup all require water, and using a hose gets annoying very quickly.  Garages rarely have pipes in them, but sometimes they are easy to install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2012-01-20T21:35:10.273" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T21:35:10.273" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-20T20:36:58.220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6069" CreationDate="2012-01-20T19:56:25.537" Score="9" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK I have been brewing for over 2 years, and have cranked out around 40 batches.  Trying to really hone in my process and improve the quality of what I make.  I am literally reading (and re-reading) every book I can get my hands on (Mosher, Papazian, Palmer, White, most of the jedi masters)...When I first read &quot;How to Brew&quot;, I recalled Palmer stating that everything from the brew kettle can go into the fermenter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm reading Radical Brewing, and Mosher suggests creating a whirlpool so the break collects in the middle, then siphoning into the fermenter.  Was planning on trying this, but had some issues with my siphon, so I ended up just dumping the whole brew kettle into the fermenter (as I have done many times before).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that the trub has some good yeast-building stuff in it (which will be helpful as this is a 1.088 OG Roller, hit with a quart WL Saison II starter).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to remember reading something on here that a lager was split into two batches, one with trub, one without, and the trubbed brew actually clarified better and allowed the yeast to work more cleanly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any definitive data out there??!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T15:57:43.700" Title="Cold and Hot Break" Tags="|yeast|trub|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6058" CreationDate="2012-01-20T20:29:54.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you can make a dry sourdough starter by just spreading it thinly on a sheet pan and leaving it in the sun to dry.  That doesn't seem nearly sterile enough for our beery exploits, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to look into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Yeast_Slants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yeast slanting&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Washing_yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yeast washing&lt;/a&gt;.  I also have an article on how I wash yeast &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.manskirtbrewing.com/yeastwashing1.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on my website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was also an interesting thread recently on HBT about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/do-you-know-how-make-yeast-starter-then-why-not-farm-yeast-freeze-269488/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;farming and freezing yeast&lt;/a&gt; using glycerine to protect the cell walls from rupturing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T20:29:54.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6050" CreationDate="2012-01-21T13:36:24.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;At fermentation temperatures I have left beer in primary for a month at a time with no issues.  Issues such as yeast autolysis are only a concern when the yeast health was not great to begin with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T13:36:24.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6058" CreationDate="2012-01-21T13:43:50.130" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply put it is not practical for the homebrewer as you need to perform the drying under sterile conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T13:43:50.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6048" CreationDate="2012-01-21T13:47:45.460" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really.  Its best to focus your energy on fixing your process and brew again.  Fixing a single beer is usually not effectively possible. Giving up one batch and fixing the process &quot;fixes&quot; all your future batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T13:47:45.460" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6068" CreationDate="2012-01-23T05:51:36.907" Score="2" ViewCount="517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just made my first home brew. I have learned many lessons including that if I move the fermenter to its resting place after I add the yeast some of the yeast gets stuck to the glass, and I can't work out a way to move it. I have no way of knowing whether it is 5% or 30%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How big an effect will this have? Will it make the fermentation take longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="880" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T00:55:05.400" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T07:37:43.993" Title="If some of the yeast doesn't get into the fermenter does it matter?" Tags="|beer|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6067" CreationDate="2012-01-23T08:04:41.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is one of your first brews, then don't worry, this won't have much effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be surprised if you get anywhere near 30% on the sides of the carboy - that's about 60 billion cells...), but if it were, this would add only half a day to the ferment at most. Yeast can double every 3-8 hours depending upon strain, so you only need one doubling of the population to get back up to the original cell count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In future, if you end up pitching the yeast and then moving the fermentor, you can just give it a good shake for a couple of minutes. This will resuspend most of the yeast and will also introduce oxygen into the wort, which is needed at the start of fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But rather than pitching directly, a more effective solution is to first &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rehydrate&lt;/a&gt; the yeast in a separate sterile container with cooled boiled water at 95F. You can then move the carboy to it's final place and then pitch the rehydrated yeast. With the yeast rehydrated and suspended in water, it will mix better with the wort and leave less on the sides of the carboy, and also the yeast will be healthier since pitching directly into the wort &lt;a href=&quot;http://seanterrill.com/2011/04/01/dry-yeast-viability/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reduces viability&lt;/a&gt; by 40-50% compared to rehydrating in warm water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as I said at the start, for your first brew or two, don't worry, yeast are hardy little critters and many people make good beer despite rough handling the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Preparing Yeast&lt;/a&gt;, How to Brew by John Palmer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://seanterrill.com/2011/04/01/dry-yeast-viability/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dry yeast viability&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T07:37:43.993" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T07:37:43.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6061" CreationDate="2012-01-23T13:02:41.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically trub can take some of the hoppiness out of your beers by trapping some of the oils from the hops (more of an issue with dry hopping) and then floculating to the bottom.  Other than that, Trub should only be a noticeable issue if you are planning on letting the beer sit on it for an extended period of time (many weeks).  The other concern would be if you experience Yeast Autolysis, but if you are pitching a nice sized starter, that shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T13:02:41.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6073" CreationDate="2012-01-23T14:20:58.443" Score="9" ViewCount="2699" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting one of those &quot;Therminator&quot; style wort chillers as an upgrade to the coil.  I plan on gravity feeding the wort through and pumping back into the kettle until my wort is nice and lukewarm.  The specs seem impressive, but it also looks like this thing would be hell to clean, and a bit annoying to sanitize, and I can't help but think bits and pieces of hops would easily clog this thing.  Am I being paranoid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T20:28:23.243" Title="How difficult are the plate-based wort chiilers to clean? Do they require filtration before the wort goes through them?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6075" CreationDate="2012-01-23T14:54:08.167" Score="5" ViewCount="7469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a two-handled handheld capper. Twice, I've snapped the neck while trying to put the cap onto a bottle. Considering how few bottles I've actually capped, that's a failure rate of over 5%. Is there some technique I should be using to avoid this problem? New caps seem to require a great deal of force to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1937" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T22:01:03.993" Title="Breaking bottles when capping them" Tags="|bottles|capping|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6070" CreationDate="2012-01-23T15:26:22.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brad Smith &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2011/12/14/beer-brewing-equipment-with-john-blichmann-beersmith-podcast-28/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;had John Blichmann on the BeerSmith podcast recently&lt;/a&gt; and they discussed cleaning and sanitizing these things.  Seems like a non-issue to me after hearing John describe it.  You just back-flush with hot water, then PBW, then Star-San and call it a day.  Do it immediately after using it to prevent crud from building up.  Those I know who have therminators have had no issues with keeping them clean nor have they experienced any infections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T15:26:22.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6070" CreationDate="2012-01-23T15:28:00.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you're careful with filtering, plate chillers can and do clog up with debris. Any debris that's trapped during transfer needs to be backflushed out by connecting the wort inlet to the water supply. The high pressure usually pushes out most of the debris, but it's still necessary to bake the chiller in the oven every few batches, and maybe run caustic soda through it once a year to clean out any resident crud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a pic of an unused shirron plate chiller cut open&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/61lJq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shirron Plate Chiller&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of gunk trapped is usually it's not enough to significantly stop the flow, but I've had flow trickle to next to nothing on more than a few batches. For example, I recently tried whirpooling through the plate chiller, and flow ground to a tiny trickle after a few minutes. I was using hop-bags, but still hop pellets and trub can make it into the chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hopback makes a great filter and pretty much stops any trub from reaching the chiller. You can build your own from a canning jar, or buy them ready made for about $125. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm scaling up to 10 gallon batches and looking to buy a new chiller. I will pass on plate chillers this time round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also from the same &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&amp;amp;t=17222&amp;amp;sid=94ab788d3795da89a345224022a49a00&amp;amp;start=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I also pump a lot of water through mine after every brew and blow it&#xA;  out with compressed air (with inline oil filter). Then the day before&#xA;  each brew day I countercirculate caustic beer line cleaning solution&#xA;  with a pump designed for beer line cleaning. The output from the&#xA;  chiller (normally the input) dumps into a bucket and the pump sucks up&#xA;  solution from that bucket through a fine stainless steel strainer. At&#xA;  the end of a few minutes of this the solution has turned dark and the&#xA;  strainer is covered with material. After an hour of circulation the&#xA;  solution is much darker and the strainer has a remarkable amount of&#xA;  crud on it. IOW, there is still plenty of material left in the chiller&#xA;  and it's not soluble even in caustic (the crud on the screen does not&#xA;  dissolve). It's probably bits of hops petals that made their way into&#xA;  the system. I have to disassemble the thing one day and clean it&#xA;  properly but it's not a job I'm looking forward to. No infections so&#xA;  far (touch wood) so I guess my protocol has been successful thus far,&#xA;  at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-01-23T16:11:14.723" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T16:11:14.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6071" CreationDate="2012-01-23T16:35:20.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had this exact issue with our second capper, except our failure rate was approaching 10%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had been using twist off caps (that was what was available to us at the time) we switched to a stand capper and the failures were eliminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have also switched to non-twist bottles and when we cap with a hand capper (we don't do this often now), but we haven't had a failure with non-twist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T16:35:20.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6077" CreationDate="2012-01-23T18:08:44.500" Score="5" ViewCount="11133" Body="&lt;p&gt;How often do people reuse bottlecaps, if at all? Given the slight crease that's introduced when removing the cap, I'm a little nervous about reusing them -- though it seems that there shouldn't be a problem if they're washed and sanitized, and if there's no leakage when the bottle is held upside-down after capping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1937" LastActivityDate="2022-10-12T08:21:14.047" Title="Reusing bottlecaps" Tags="|caps|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6076" CreationDate="2012-01-23T18:18:32.707" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never done it, and I wouldn't recommend it.  I suspect that the seals inside the caps are really only good for one use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't make sense to me to try to save money there.   You just spent a bunch of time and energy making a tasty beer:  you don't want to ruin it by using faulty or contaminated caps.  Even if they don't leak beer, they may still leak CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; once they're under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T18:18:32.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5314" CreationDate="2012-01-23T20:14:24.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know where djr obtained his information to say &quot;Crystallized honey is more likely to spoil (ferment)&quot;. Honey will only ferment if it is robbed from the hives before the bees have ripened /dried it to less than 18 percent moisture. Commercial bee keepers wreck their honey of it's enzymes by heating it in order to kill the spores which only become activated if unripened honey has more than 18 percent moisture. Honey crystallizes because of the high glucose to fructose content and it is natural. To stop crystallization the honey is heated and ultra filtered. Always remember the hive temperature is a constant 37-38 degrees Celsius and any heating beyond that must be detrimental to it's beneficial qualities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2079" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T20:14:24.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6076" CreationDate="2012-01-23T21:31:52.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want &quot;recyclable&quot; caps, you could consider bottling to 1/2 gallon growlers... 38mm &quot;polyseal&quot; caps are machine washable and make a decent seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T21:31:52.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6047" CreationDate="2012-01-23T21:58:10.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a document written by Steve Piatz who was the AHA mead maker of the year a few years ago.  The method is often referred to as the staggered nutrient addition method.  The types of nutrients typically used are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/winemaking/wine-ingredients/wine-chemicals/wine-additives/yeast-energizer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yeast Energizer&lt;/a&gt; which contains diammonium phosphate(DAP) and fermaid K or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/winemaking/wine-ingredients/wine-chemicals/wine-additives/nutriferm-advance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nutriferm Advance&lt;/a&gt; which are similar nutrient blends.  The nutrients are added in equal amounts spanning 4 days and you also stir the must to off gas the co2 and to aerate to improve yeast health.  I have been using this method for about 5 years and my meads are usually drinkable within a few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=2&amp;amp;ved=0CCgQFjAB&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ahaconference.org%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2Fpresentations%2F2010%2FMead_Maker_of_the_Year_Panel.pdf&amp;amp;ei=xNMdT_fiEJGGsAKm0vnPBQ&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGNSAzv61StB4JE0fBWoKAOlFW1jQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=2&amp;amp;ved=0CCgQFjAB&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ahaconference.org%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2Fpresentations%2F2010%2FMead_Maker_of_the_Year_Panel.pdf&amp;amp;ei=xNMdT_fiEJGGsAKm0vnPBQ&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGNSAzv61StB4JE0fBWoKAOlFW1jQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2013-03-18T20:23:56.183" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T20:23:56.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5894" CreationDate="2012-01-24T12:37:12.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can age them. I'm guessing that you are drinking them way too young. Well I don't really have to guess since you said 'them' and that you have only been making wine for about a year. A wine without age could be considered too fruity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2081" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T12:37:12.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5894" CreationDate="2012-01-24T13:21:05.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only made a handful of wines, so am no expert, but you might want to look into regulating the acidity, which has a pronounced affect on flavour, and also adding tannins, since these also contribute to the structure of the wine. (For the &quot;leathery&quot; taste you most likely need more tannins - no coincidence - tannin used to be used to produce leather.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article, &lt;a href=&quot;http://antiwinesnob.com/wine-articles/whats-the-difference-between-tannins-and-acidity/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Difference between tannins and acidity&lt;/a&gt; describes the roles these compounds play and why they are important in wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a feel for the flavours and other contributions, pour 4-6 glasses and add different amounts of acid and tannins to each to see the effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T13:21:05.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6092" CreationDate="2012-01-24T15:27:43.800" Score="1" ViewCount="861" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottled up a fig-gose a week ago, and figured I would try one last night just for kicks.  Big hiss and and about a 1 inch head.  Plenty of carbonation now, but it is still 'young' carbonation (big, rough bubbles, etc).  A little worried about bottle bombs or gushers.  Can/should anything be done?  Move them to a cooler part of the house?  The priming calcuator I used has an input for ambient temp, which I put in at 65 degrees (though my house has been closer to 68).  I don't have a chamber for specific temp control (next on the list!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some stats:&#xA;-used corn sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-4.75 gallons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-used a berliner weisse as the style into the calculator, which I believe carbs to 3.45 volumes CO2 (since there is not one for gose, but the style should be on the effervescent side)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-OG of 1.060, FG of 1.015&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.8oz corn sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess in short, if it is carbed to my liking, should i try to crash it down as best as possible to halt the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T17:17:18.403" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T18:18:51.267" Title="May be too much carbonation on the way" Tags="|carbonation|priming|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6076" CreationDate="2012-01-24T15:38:21.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are also twist close plastic bottles and caps, the kind that come with the &quot;Mr. Beer&quot; kit, that are reusable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1957" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T15:38:21.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-24T15:49:15.937" Score="8" ViewCount="15521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am on the fence with this one. Is there any reasons other than &quot;Shorter brew day&quot; or &quot;contamination worries&quot; for using a wort chiller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brew 2.5 gallon batches of wort in my pot, and either 1. cover it with the sanitized lid and immerse it in an ice bath in the sink, or set it outside in the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lid will protect it from contaminations and the bath/outside reduce it to 70 degrees in about 30 min. So I am saving maybe 10 minutes with a wort chiller? And I have something extra to clean up and sanitize later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing some great need for a wort chiller that i am not seeing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1957" LastEditorUserId="240" LastEditDate="2012-01-26T06:41:27.870" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T03:11:20.490" Title="Do I truly need a wort chiller?" Tags="|wort|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6085" CreationDate="2012-01-24T16:06:09.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;the short answer is: no, you do not need one, particularly if you are going to keep brewing 2.5gal batches.  For most doing partial-volume boils with immersion chillers/plate chillers, I don't know that the cooling time is THAT much shorter than your method.  See Palmer and others for the benefits of cooling quickly (facilitates cold break, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when they say 'quickly', I take them to mean inside of a LONG period of time.  There is greater chance, as you say for contamination, as well as DMS buildup, which will cause a cooked-corn off-flavor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, however, you ever want to move to all-grain at some point (I'm assuming you are doing partial-boil extract batches), a wort chiller is a great (and necessary) investment.  If you are cut from the same cloth as many homebrewers, you love to improve, expand your horizons, and try new methods.  This is when a chiller becomes a good investment.  I would skip the IC and go straight to a plate chiller with march pump (you can literally drop 5 gallons to pitching temp in a matter of minutes).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the time being, though, since you have an 'adequate' cooling method, your dough may be better spent on temp control equipment, which would DEFINITELY provide a noticeable positive change in your final product.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T20:11:57.873" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T20:11:57.873" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6093" CreationDate="2012-01-24T16:57:53.177" Score="3" ViewCount="9375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read online that C-Brite:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does require rinsing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does not require rinsing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does not require rinsing if you let it dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does not require rinsing but you should or your beer will have off flavors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, any concerns about re-introducing baddies with tap water (not boiled) when rinsing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2055" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T18:40:33.710" Title="Does C-Brite require rinsing" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6085" CreationDate="2012-01-24T17:26:48.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing for about a year now. I have not done anything other than extract yet but I always do 5 gal boils. At the end of my boil I put my pot in a large plastic bin with 40lbs of ice and a little water to float the ice and stir for about 20 minutes. After 20 min my wert down to pitching temp and I have had no problems with infection even with doing all of this in my garage with the door open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been thinking of going with a wert chiller but I live in TX right now and the water out of the tap in the summer is pretty warm. I also can't get over the wastefulness of the water for a chiller. Right now the water after I'm done with the bath is great for a water bath for my fermenter to keep my temps consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2019" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T17:26:48.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6032" CreationDate="2012-01-24T17:46:30.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I go to my local HBS to get a kit made up, I have noticed that they do their best not to short me on ingredients but typically over it, sometimes by quite a bit. I assume that you got your kit from northern brewer but I can’t imagine that they don’t do something similar. Did you happen to weigh out you ingredients before you boiled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2019" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T17:46:30.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6076" CreationDate="2012-01-24T18:04:07.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or you could go with swing-top bottles.  Although after some time you will have to replace the red rubber seals on those as well.  But much less waste than with caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/ez-cap-bottles-brown-16-oz-with-flip-tops.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/ez-cap-bottles-brown-16-oz-with-flip-tops.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/ez-cap-bottles-brown-1-liter-with-flip-tops.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/ez-cap-bottles-brown-1-liter-with-flip-tops.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/wire-bales-for-flip-tops.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/wire-bales-for-flip-tops.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastEditorUserId="1981" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T18:09:29.847" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T18:09:29.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6071" CreationDate="2012-01-24T18:08:30.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a habit of breaking the handles off the two handed cappers. ;-)  Quality construction there for sure.  I have not had the pleasure of breaking bottles, yet.  But what I switched to was the upright capper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/super-agata-bench-capper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/super-agata-bench-capper.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works like a charm.  I tend to push down and spin the bottle an then push again to get a nice circular pattern on top, which makes me fairly certain the caps are on.  Also I don't have mine mounted anywhere (it has four screw holes in the bottom so it can be mounted to a table or bench), although that would make it even easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T18:08:30.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6083" CreationDate="2012-01-24T18:18:51.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll be fine. Leave it a another week, and move to a slightly cooler area if you're concerned - since you're already a week in, it won't affect the final carbonation. So long as you distributed the priming sugar evenly (e.g. add to bottling bucket first). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big hiss and large bubbles is because the CO2 hasn't yet reached equilibrium throughout the bottle - there's more CO2 pressure in the headspace than in the beer. At an ambient temp of 68F, the CO2 takes many days to enter into solution. Since 1 week has passed, most if not all the CO2 has been produced by the yeast, but not yet dissolved - the remaining week is waiting for the CO2 to dissolve into the beer. So you can move them to a cooler part of the house if you're worried about the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the priming sugar calculators - temperature is usually serving temperature, not the temperature that the bottle ferments at. If you plan to store and serve your beer cold, say 43F/6C, then you'll end up with closer to 4.0 volumes. But I don't think that will be too bad for the beer. I don't know about gose, but Berliner Weiss is fine at this level of carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T18:18:51.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6087" CreationDate="2012-01-24T18:40:33.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think all the info you want is at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fallbright.com/newsc_brite.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their home page&lt;/a&gt; (relevant snippets below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The formulation of our C-Brite is a federally approved sanitizer...we&#xA;  learned last year...that sanitizers must be registered on a&#xA;  State-by-State basis...neither we nor our producer is willing to&#xA;  do....we have had to take the product and sell it as a cleanser&#xA;  instead, just like we did with B-Brite years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...sanitizers can be ‘no-rinse’ when used in the proper&#xA;  concentrations...no cleansers are permitted to be labeled&#xA;  ‘no-rinse’...we changed the packaging on C-Brite from ‘sanitizer’ to&#xA;  ‘cleanser’, even though we did not change the formulation at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SANITIZATION&lt;/strong&gt;:  No-rinse effective sanitization requires a solution of 100 ppm available chlorine.  This will be achieved by dissolving&#xA;  the contents of an 0.8 ounce packet of C-Brite in 2 gallons of warm&#xA;  water.  Thoroughly wet all surfaces to be sanitized.  Let stand at&#xA;  least one minute.  &lt;strong&gt;Drain and AIR DRY.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for rinsing, I think as long as the water is clean and drinkable, there won't be issues with it contaminating your items.  That said, I still prefer a no-rinse, wet-contact solution like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/breweries/homebrewing/products/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Star-San&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T18:40:33.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6095" CreationDate="2012-01-24T19:04:48.303" Score="6" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question usually pops up in my head every time I step into Home Depot and see all the orange buckets around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes a bucket food grade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="240" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T19:53:18.813" Title="What makes a brew bucket food grade?" Tags="|equipment|bucket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6094" CreationDate="2012-01-24T19:19:37.230" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the type of plastic, and how it's manufactured (it has to do with the chemical properties of the plastic).   A food grade container will not allow most foods to leach toxic chemicals from it under normal operating conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.usaemergencysupply.com/information_center/packing_your_own_food_storage/plastic_food_storagebuckets.htm&quot;&gt;Using Plastic Buckets in Food Storage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T19:19:37.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1259" CreationDate="2012-01-25T01:39:43.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get in touch with NZ Hops and buy direct from the source!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nzhops.co.nz/contacts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nzhops.co.nz/contacts.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1307" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T01:39:43.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6085" CreationDate="2012-01-25T15:25:17.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;'&lt;strong&gt;Need&lt;/strong&gt;' is highly subjective.  I think the two reasons you posted - shorter brew day and less chance of infection - are good reasons to put a wort chiller in the '&lt;strong&gt;want&lt;/strong&gt;' category, if it makes sense for how you brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 2.5 gallon batch, I don't think it even falls into the 'want' category any more, though.  That small a batch will cool down fast enough in a sink of water that the investment in a chiller probably isn't worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when you're talking about a full boil with 5-6 gallons of hot wort, it becomes more useful.  That can take a very long time and a lot of water/ice to cool.  Plus you have to lift all of that hot wort into a sink, which can be dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No-chill is certainly an option, and a good one.  It's not for everyone, though.  I don't like sticking my hot wort in a plastic container, and it becomes problematic at larger volumes - I'm doing 10-15 gallon batches, so I'd need a lot of intermediate containers, or large (read: expensive) ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to go from kettle to fermentor, and a wort chiller allows me to do that in a reasonable amount of time without lifting heavy pots of boiling liquid.  That right there is worth the investment for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of time, a bit off-topic, but a pump was mentioned.  Using a pump to recirculate the wort while chilling has made a &lt;strong&gt;huge&lt;/strong&gt; difference in how long it takes to chill down to yeast pitching temps for me.  All of my boil kettles now have recirculation ports so I can recirc while I chill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T15:25:17.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6100" CreationDate="2012-01-25T16:40:07.483" Score="1" ViewCount="1252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to brew a beer for my brother's 50th birthday in late April (who had a large part in getting me into homebrewing, though he has since hung it up).  He is a huge fan of figs, so I thought I would try to incorporate them into a brew.  Typically, he's into the hoppy end of balanced beers (not particularly into complex malt-profiled beers, porters/bitters, etc.), and can get into some mega-hopped beers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed a fig-gose by adding 12oz of pureed fresh figs to the boil @ 5min, along with the coriander and salt.  It was somewhat of an experiment, since I felt like I had some time to mess around before I needed to deliver the batch.  The finished product is good, drinkable, but a bit cidery, i'm guessing because the majority of the fig sugars fermented out.  A couple of questions/requests for advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.)  Should I stick to a simpler style such as a Gold/Blonde/Cream Ale since my bro isn't really into lambics/wits, etc. that might be more receptive to a fig?  Maybe I could brew another gose and add figs to a secondary, as I thought the style would work well (below-threshold saltiness with a fig essence to balance -- my understanding is traditionally this style can be served with fruit syrups)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.)  Should I addand simply add the figs/fig puree to the secondary to get more of the fig essence?  I was somewhat worried about sanitization which is why I added them pre-fermentation.  Any ideas on how to sanitize the figs?  Boil a puree then cool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.)  Any suggestions on a more suitable style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T18:52:32.277" Title="Fruit Beer Question (use of fig and style recommendation)" Tags="|fruit|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6101" CreationDate="2012-01-25T16:54:49.690" Score="4" ViewCount="2559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to get some 1/2&quot; NPT &amp;amp; barbed quick-disconnect fittings for my little brewery, making it easier to break down and clean, as well as give me some flexibility in what I'm sending where.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was expecting to find the fittings in brass for under $5 in a bunch of places... I see garden hose quick disconnect fittings for that all over the place, but I was surprised and frustrated to find the cheapest ones for like $12 once I went away from the garden hoses.  Granted, there's a smaller market, but that's a pretty big difference in price for what is ultimately the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have approximately 12 points I'd like to put in quick-disconnects.  I don't want to spend $200+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone found alternatives to this, or perhaps some place where I can get these parts cheap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T17:01:29.580" Title="Quick disconnects - cheap alternatives?" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6098" CreationDate="2012-01-25T17:01:29.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my mind, a Belgian dubbel is good candidate for the addition of figs. I'd aim for a somewhat sweet finish (1.015 or thereabouts). I'd add dark crystal and Special B to the mash to provide caramel flavors, and I'd add finely chopped dried figs to the secondary. Dried figs are less likely to contain spoilage organisms as the moisture content is low, and the sugar content high. Of course, use figs that were dried without the use of sulphur, as that will affect the flavor of the beer and the viability of the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say your brother is not into malty beers, so maybe the dubbel won't fly. My second choice would be a Hefeweizen or Imperial Hefeweizen. A normal gravity (1.045 or so) wheat beer will finish quit dry, so the figs will contribute a perfume to the beer, but no sweetness. The stronger Imperial Hefeweizen finishes more sweet, which will make it taste more &quot;figgy&quot;, I should think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take this advice with a grain of salt (or three), since I've never actually brewed with figs. This is just me speculating. But since I just moved into a house with a fig tree, I may end up putting these theories to the test in the autumn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2012-01-25T18:52:32.277" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T18:52:32.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6099" CreationDate="2012-01-25T17:37:21.057" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewershardware.com/cam_and_groove_fittings/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewer's Hardware&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/category&amp;amp;path=51&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bargin Fitting's&lt;/a&gt; selection of quick connects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They've got &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;path=51_54&amp;amp;product_id=135&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stainless camlocks&lt;/a&gt; for about $6 each, which seem to be very popular among home brewers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tZyIr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/doat6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bargian Fittings also has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/category&amp;amp;path=51_55&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chrome plated brass quick connects&lt;/a&gt; for $8 and $5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hRkwg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, if you don't mind aluminum, &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.proflowdynamics.com/modules/store/-Aluminum_C69.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these camlocks&lt;/a&gt; are less than $3 each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oIUXR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-01-25T21:10:28.400" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T21:10:28.400" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6104" CreationDate="2012-01-25T21:37:00.977" Score="5" ViewCount="1987" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or mash tun aspect ratio, if you like.  Tall and skinny, or short and wide?  I know a deeper grain bed (tall and skinny) will be better for lautering purposes, but will a flatter grain bed (short and wide) be better in any way?  I've read mixed reviews online, but thought I'd solicit some opinions here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm batch sparging now, but will likely move to fly sparging in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T23:40:18.047" Title="Mash tun shape - does it matter?" Tags="|mash|mash-tun|kettle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6102" CreationDate="2012-01-25T22:09:14.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For batch sparging, it doesn't matter.  For fly sparging, taller is a bit better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T22:09:14.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6102" CreationDate="2012-01-25T23:40:18.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;John Palmer&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Deeper grainbeds have more uniform rinsing, all else being equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An more uniform rinsing can mean increased yield, so then shape does have some impact. As Denny says, taller is better since there is more chance for the water to rinse the grains when fly sparging. (But, up to a point, if the grain bed is very deep then it might become compacted, which leads to stuck sparge or increased channeling further down the grain bed.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously, I used a 70qt cooler for 5 and 10 gallon batches, batch sparged, and typically got 65% extraction, and usually 70% for 10 gallon batches. I'm now using a blichmann 20 gallon kettle and false bottom, and got 90%-92% on each of 10 brews so far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the change in efficiency is entirely due to the shape, but I always felt the cooler was far too large for the batch size, making it difficult to get an even temperature. As well as the different MLT shape, the improvement in extraction is probably also due to these other changes in brewing process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using a pump to recirculate the mash (more even temperature and enzyme distribution)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using a precisely engineered false bottom - my cooler had a hand made manifold of CPVC pipe...not quite precision engineering! (reduced channeling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;close monitoring and adjustment of the pH level of the mash (increased enzyme activity)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mashing out - more efficient lautering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not adding fly sparging to this list because I really don't know if that improves efficiency - I've not done a batch sparge to directly compare. Will batch sparge the next brew and I'll update this answer with the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T23:40:18.047" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6085" CreationDate="2012-01-26T04:44:03.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer is no... the brewmasters of ancient times certainly never had wort chillers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you spend all day brewing your beer, imagining what it's going to taste like, meticulously sanitizing everything, following your recipe to the &quot;T&quot;... do you really want to risk losing the batch to a lucky strain of bacteria that happened to be passing by in that window of opportunity?  Do you want to babysit your fermenter sitting outside in the snow, constantly checking to see if it's cold enough, without letting it get too cold?  I did that for about 5 batches, and then i was like FTS.  Wort chillers make the world a better place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T04:44:03.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6110" CreationDate="2012-01-26T14:56:55.893" Score="4" ViewCount="3334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a GLBC Christmas Ale Clone in November, trying (futilely) to have it ready for Xmas Eve.  Had it in bottles two weeks before, but to no avail. As this beer finished up around 9.3%abv, the yeast in the bottles had a lot more work to do given the boozy conditions inside the bottles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 5 weeks in the bottles (ambient temp in my house is around 65 degrees), and virtually NO carbonation (despite my priming sugar calculation on Tastybrew.com), I found a spot that generally stays 70 degrees or warmer:  a shelf above my dryer in the laundry closet.  Shook the cases really well, stored them up there, and was able to be patient enough to forget about them for exactly one week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After one week up there, I noticed significantly more carbonation.  A much more pronounced 'hiss' when opened the bottles, plus about a half inch, quickly-dissapating head.  Also, there was good carbonation in the first few sips, giving way to a flatter beer by the end of my bottle sample.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.)  When the dryer is running, it can get up to 75-78 degrees in that spot.  When it isn't, it is usually around 70.  Are these swings harmful to the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.)  Since there was no carbonation for so long, does this simply 'reset the clock' for carbonation?  In other words, the louder hiss tells me there is a lot of CO2 in the headspace, but will this dissolve into the beer?  Not to be a maniac, but I am looking to get the nice, soft carb bubbles that you get from a well-conditioned beer (they help make the alcohol heat more palatable!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.)  At a certain point, will I see any benefit from cellaring the beer at 60-65 degrees?  Given the ABV of this one, I am hopeful that it will age well.  When would you all start the cellaring process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'm thinking to leave them up there for two more weeks, then stick them in a cool corner of the cellar to age, let the flavors meld, and the alcohol mellow out.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.  This is my first really big beer (1.093 OG), and I realize that these are not for the impatient.  I'm just curious as to how best to get this beer into its prime.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T15:54:32.283" Title="Temperature Swings While Bottle Conditioning/Carbonating" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|conditioning|high-gravity|cellaring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6071" CreationDate="2012-01-26T15:23:20.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using the two handled &quot;red baron&quot; capper, i prefer to use the weight of the capper to seat the cap without pushing down.  When the handles are lowered, i try to use a slight lifting motion with the portion of my hands facing center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only ever busted one bottle, and it was my first.  On that bottle i was pushing down with quite a bit of force and sheared the neck off the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also had wider neck bottles that seem to not fit the red baron capper very well...i could see those have necks sheared as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T15:23:20.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2012-01-26T15:34:09.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can say the most painful labels i've had to remove are from Summit Brewing...with the easiest being New Belgium, O'Dells, and Bear Republic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even after a healthy PBW soak, i still have to take out a scrub pad to remove Summit's paper and adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T15:34:09.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2012-01-26T15:45:35.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO, the best method for getting labels off of beer bottles is (as is said above) to use local/small craft brewery bottles, fill a dishwasher with them, run it, and remove toward the end of the 'steam' part of the cycle.  Any labels that aren't completely off will just come off, and any residual glue/adhesive can be scrubbed with a brillo pad.  Boom, you have the same thing you can buy from a LHBS.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T15:45:35.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6106" CreationDate="2012-01-26T15:54:32.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over a week or two, the temperature swings wont make much difference since there is little flavor contribution from the fermentation that goes on in bottle conditioning - for a high gravity beer, the priming sugar represents only about 1% of fermentables.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like after a week, fermentation of the priming sugar is pretty much done - the remaining time is conditioning and allowing the CO2 to dissolve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving beer at warm temps for a month or more may give off flavours, since the yeast are being forced to have a high metabolic rate by the temperature, yet there is little food left to consume. I would leave them in your warm place for another week to be sure all the sugar has fermented, and then store the beers at cellar temperature (35-55F). This will help them condition, drop clear and dissolve the CO2 in the headspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T15:54:32.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6123" CreationDate="2012-01-26T17:22:41.837" Score="3" ViewCount="1556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been researching this on some blogs and have seen info on this topic but not an answer to this question. I have brewed a 10.6% Belgian tripel with an FG of 1.02 about 6 weeks ago (secondaryed at 2 weeks). The yeast I used is Wyeast Belgian Abby which is good to about 12%. I have read that due to the higher ABV I should think about repitching yeast a day or two ahead of time. I have seen a lot of suggestions to use champange yeast due to its alcohol tolerance. My question is this: If I use a different yeast shouldn't I be worried that the new yeast may consume the residual sugar as well as the bottling sugar, thus not only changing my flavor profile but making bombs as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to siphon off about a cup of the beer into a beer bottle and add some sugar and cover it with a balloon to see if the yeast is still in suspension. Once I bottle it for good I plan on letting it sit for a good 2 mo in the bottle, so even if it is really slow to carbonate I would think I should be good. Any thoughts on this couse of action, while I'm at it? Thanks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2019" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T15:20:49.813" Title="Bottling high Alcohol beer" Tags="|yeast|bottling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6111" CreationDate="2012-01-26T18:08:01.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of things that can go wrong in your balloon test, so while it will be fun to do, I'm not sure how to interpret the results. Any contamination that occurs will result in a false positive, and any leaking in the cup or balloon will result in a false negative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a strain of dry Belgian yeast that is made to be specifically tolorant of alocol, while not being a great attenuator. This makes it a fantastic bottling strain, which is it's primary purpose. The yeast is &lt;strong&gt;Safale T-58&lt;/strong&gt; and is readily available at most brew shops and definitely easy to get online. I'd suggest adding a packet of it to your brew a day before bottling. Or make a slurry with it and add it when you rack into the bottling bucket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T18:08:01.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2322" CreationDate="2012-01-26T18:12:43.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old question, but I'll throw out an answer:  In Brewmaster's Table, Garrett Oliver recommended wits, hefeweissens, berliner weisses (wheat in general) to go with eggs.  A wit or hefe does go beautifully with eggs/omelettes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing steak and eggs, that adds another layer of complexity.  Most of those wheats won't stand up to beef, so I would go with a weissbock, dunkel, or even a hoppy amber.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T18:12:43.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2322" CreationDate="2012-01-26T18:39:43.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any beer I drink with breakfast, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GBHJg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T18:39:43.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6119" CreationDate="2012-01-27T02:38:23.423" Score="6" ViewCount="2343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be making my first yeast starter, for a higher gravity beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While reading starter guides, and watching videos, I've noticed that there are several different techniques and opinions for the flask stopper. It seems that the common approach is to use a piece of sanitized aluminum foil, loosely wrapped around the top. I've seen others use airlocks, but have seen just as much on the side, recommending that they be avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a starter kit which included a semi-dense foam stopper (from NB). It appears that it will allow permeation of oxygen, which I understand to be important for the starter. I will soak it in sanitizer before I cap the flask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this be an effective stopper? Should I skip this and go with the common aluminum foil approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also worried about sanitization. How does the starter stay safe from infection if it's not airtight? I know it will only be exposed for a day or so, but I'm still curious about possible infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1902" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T22:43:50.273" Title="Yeast Starter Stopper &amp; Sanitization" Tags="|sanitation|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6116" CreationDate="2012-01-27T02:59:22.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can put that foam stopper in your flask while you boil the starter wort. The steam from the boiling starter wort will sanitize the stopper for you. Or you could put the foam stopper in a covered saucepan with a bit of boiling water so that it's sanitized by the steam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding of foam stoppers is that, although not airtight, their structure makes it so that air-borne contaminants -- such as wild yeast -- can't make it through to your wort. I've used them for many of my starters and have never had a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also used foil, which I sanitize by using it to cover the top of the flask while the starter wort is boiling. Just like the foam stopper, the steam sanitizes the foil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T02:59:22.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6116" CreationDate="2012-01-27T03:05:07.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always just use foil with a little starsan spray on it.  I am pretty sure I heard that bacteria don't &quot;fall up&quot; so you just need to cover the top loosely so that you can have oxygen transfer.  I've made 30+ beers with starters and have always just used loose tin foil.  Don't forget to shake/swirl occasionally if you don't have a stirplate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T03:05:07.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6116" CreationDate="2012-01-27T03:09:29.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those using airlocks are missing the point of the starter, as you mention: you need O₂ to be introduced to promote healthy yeast reproduction.  (You also want to get CO₂ degassed out, as well, which is another benefit to a stirplate, as it will help achieve both goals.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't even worry about sanitizing the aluminum foil coming just off a roll, but if it makes you feel better, go for it.  I use unsanitized foil, myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's safe from infection because microorganisms can't crawl up; cf. Pasteur's swan-neck flask experiment.  Unless you have significant wild yeast in the air and a serious pressure differential that would actively push stuff into the flask, nothing's going to get into the flask and outcompete the massive yeast population you've introduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that you should make a starter for any 5g batch above 1.040, which I'd consider a &lt;em&gt;moderate&lt;/em&gt; gravity figure in most modern homebrewing.  The recommended ale pitch rate of 0.75 million cells/ml/°Plato, with the commercially available liquid yeasts at around 150 billion cells, solves out to a gravity of only 1.040 at a 20L (~5gl) batch size.  And depending on how your yeast are handled in transit, that 150 billion cell estimate is probably high.  Plus, you'll have a good idea on the viability of the yeast with a starter.  In short: always make a starter. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, wort oxygenation is very important, even with a good starter, so don't skimp there either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T03:09:29.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6121" CreationDate="2012-01-27T04:09:45.487" Score="5" ViewCount="1595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to brew Jamil's Dry Stout from &lt;em&gt;Brewing Classic Styles&lt;/em&gt;, which calls for &quot;British pale ale malt,&quot; but I happen to have about 75 lbs of 2-row malt already, and I would like to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I add some percentage of specialty malt (Munich, perhaps?) that would give my 2-row substitution a more English character?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T16:01:33.243" Title="Substituting American Two-Row for British Pale Ale Malt" Tags="|beer|malt|substitution|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6120" CreationDate="2012-01-27T11:46:41.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add some munich, or you can just leave it out. In a stout with that much roasted barley the difference is hardly noticable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've brewed 4 different British Ales in the last 3 months, all using Maris Otter. Most styles leave enough room for the the wonderful soft maltiness of the MO to come through, some, like the bitter, just a little, while others, the Irish Red, a lot. But, the dry stout had the least malt flavor and aroma from the grain - the strong flavors and aromatics from the roasted grains seem to bury the maltiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you wanted to add munich, that wouldn't do any harm - subst 1.5lb of 2 row for munich. Although the malt profile is more intense than the English malt, the difference will not be noticable against the roasted grain. Substuting munich will reduce the overall diastatic power of the mash, but there is still enough 2-row to covert the unmalted cereals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-01-27T16:01:33.243" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T16:01:33.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6116" CreationDate="2012-01-27T12:02:51.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've also bought those foam stoppers, and most times I've used them I've ended up with contaimation of the starter. It may be because I make my starters 5-7 days ahead of brewday - it seems that once CO2 production stops, then the microbes are free to drop in through the stopper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I switched out the foam stopper with an airlock when fermentation had started to slow, still got the same yield and no contamination that time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T12:02:51.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6111" CreationDate="2012-01-27T15:20:49.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay first off I don't really think you are going to have a big problem here.  I have bottled pretty high alcohol conentration beers, and as long as they haven't been conditioning for quite some time (think 6 months to a year) there will still be viable yeast in the fermenter.  When you transfer into a bottling bucket you can stir up a little of the yeast cake to make sure you will have enough yeast (at least one of those little buggers ought to be alive) to carbonate.  Carbonation may be slow but it reduces the chance of contamination by introducing something new the beer.  I have had a bad experience with adding new yeast to a nearly 6 month fermented lager.  It wasn't the new yeast but the new bacteria that caused a major catastrophe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scientist in me also wants to impart some advice for doing experiments.  Experimenting is a good way to learn new things, but it must be done using the scientific method.  Here are a couple of suggestions that would make your experiment useful.  First, you don't have a control for what a normal carbonation event would look like, the expansion of the ballon in a normal beer as it carbonates.  Therefore you don't have anything to compare your test against.  Second, if you want to do a test I suggest doing them in threes.  Gives you a much more meaningful data.  And you wouldn't necessarily need to use a large bottle, although I am not exactly sure what you would need to do to extrapolate the data back to a full bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T15:20:49.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6085" CreationDate="2012-01-27T18:13:06.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already said, the answer is no, but using a wort chiller is (in my opinion) easier and a bit more cost effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easier: You only have to place the chiller in the brew kettle instead of lifting the brew kettle into an icy bath.  Since you are doing 2.5 gallon batches this isn't a big deal, but if/when you move up to larger batches that pot gets very heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost: Wort chillers are a one time investment.  All you need is a water source.  For me this eliminated the need to make or go buy 4 to 5 bags of ice at a few dollars a pop.  Wort chillers run around $40 - $60, bags of ice for one batch $12 - $15.  So you should break even in about 4 batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T18:13:06.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6138" CreationDate="2012-01-27T19:03:08.870" Score="7" ViewCount="23315" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the fall of 2011 I made the leap from extract/partial kits to all-grain kits. I'm enjoying AG, but my SG is continuously below the expected. I have brewed 5 AG kits and 4 have had a low SG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My assumption is my sugar extraction during mashing (or sparging) isn't optimal. I heat my mash water to 165 and mash the grains for 60 minutes. Mashing levels out at 152. For Lautering I heat the water to 175-180. After I drain the initial mash I add the lautering water and let that soak for 10 minutes. the temperature levels out around 170-172. Then I drain into the kettle and being the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I aim for a gentle boil just enough to break the surface tension. I boil for 60 minutes, chill, rack, take a reading and pitch yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of the numbers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;type            expected     actual  kit&#xA;st paul porter  1.052        1.039   http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/st-paul-porter-all-grain-kit.html&#xA;belgium strong  1.067        1.055   http://www.midwestsupplies.com/superior-strong-ale-all-grain-kit.html&#xA;troegs hop back 1.063        1.049   http://www.byo.com/stories/recipeindex/article/recipes/90-american-amber-a-pale-ale/2196-troeegs-hopback-amber-ale-clone&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuorth was the Phat Tyre kit from Northern Brewer. Can't remember the SG though. It was low. They taste great, but the numbers weren't &quot;right&quot;. What can I adjust so the numbers are more inline with the recipe? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Thank you for all the feedback. There are a number of factors for me to review and adjust. Given my current setup I will follow @mdma advice and recirculate the wort once and extend lautering to 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be a week or two before I can attempt this, so it will be awhile before I report back again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #2&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I now have some awesome local contacts who are helping me out with technique and trouble shooting. Another (major) issue I could be experiencing is draining the wort way too fast. According to my friend. The drain should be low and slow after cycling a gallon or 2 of wort. sparging should take ~2 hours. for each gallon drained plato/brix should drop 3 points and go no lower than 3-5 points at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the second recommendation is to heat up 3-5 gallons of water to 180 and poor it in prior to/while sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my first attempt using this technique proved successful with the gravity being a lot closer to the anticipated OG. I had some temp issues with the batch, but I was so focused on sparging that I ignored the temp. My guess is I would have been right on if my temp didn't fall so low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #3&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I had the chance to brew with my mentor this weekend and he pointed out 2 glaring problems with my mashing technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting mash temp is too low. I was heating my water to 10-12 degrees above target temp. He recommends 17 degrees. between grain absorption &amp;amp; the tun itself most of the heat dissipates within the first few minutes.&#xA;This does go against what I originally said. That I was hitting my temp marks. Looking back I was hasty with my readings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I should not dump my sparge water (or lauter?) into the tun while draining the wort. The idea is to compact the liquid into the bottom of the tun thus compacting the sugars. I am stirring up the mash when I dump all sparge water in. We kept our sparge water 1-2 inches above the grain bed and our final results we excellent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 3rd recommendation he made was to lower the pH of the water. tap water is ~7 and the ideal mash pH is 5.2. He added a solvent, which I cannot remember the name of, which did this for us. I'll be picking up some of that this weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to all who helped me out with this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastEditorUserId="1950" LastEditDate="2012-06-12T12:24:20.937" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T12:24:20.937" Title="Why is my starting gravity low?" Tags="|all-grain|original-gravity|efficiency|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6125" CreationDate="2012-01-27T19:23:05.500" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be many things.  The first thing I would do is separate your &lt;strong&gt;conversion efficiency&lt;/strong&gt; from your &lt;strong&gt;lautering efficiency&lt;/strong&gt;.  That will narrow down the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Understanding_Efficiency&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article at this link&lt;/a&gt; has some really great information on efficiency.  It gets a little technical, but the chart in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Understanding_Efficiency#Conversion_efficiency&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Conversion Efficiency section&lt;/a&gt; is especially interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RY8PI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it's saying is to take a hydrometer sample of your &lt;strong&gt;first runnings&lt;/strong&gt;.  Then just match up your mash thickness with the gravity.  So if you mash at 1.25 qt/lb like most brewers, you'd expect a reading of around 1.096.  Your conversion efficiency should be close to 100% (I'm usually in the 95-98% range).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're far off, start with the crush.  Are you milling your own?  Try a finer crush and see if your efficiency goes up.  Check your mash pH.  Make sure your thermometer is accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're 95-100% efficient there, time to look at your lautering process.  Are you running off too much?  Are you not boiling down far enough?  Do you &lt;strong&gt;accurately&lt;/strong&gt; measure how much pre-boil and post-boil wort you get?  Are you taking pre-boil and post-boil hydrometer readings?  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Understanding_Efficiency#Lauter_efficiency&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lauter efficiency section&lt;/a&gt; at the same link has more information as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to tl;dr it, start with conversion efficiency.  Make sure your volume measurements are accurate and take gravity readings before and after the boil.  Then you can diagnose the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T19:23:05.500" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6136" CreationDate="2012-01-27T19:42:34.867" Score="0" ViewCount="2823" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you soak it in sanitizer?  Boil it?  Do nothing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw one on Amazon last week for like $30 and I figured what the heck, pick it up and I'll try it out, but now I'm not sure how I'd go about doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T00:11:51.070" Title="How to sanitize a 10&quot; cylindrical beer filter?" Tags="|sanitation|filtering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6125" CreationDate="2012-01-27T20:08:06.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you correcting your hydrometer readings for temperature? I hesitate to even suggest that, but your actual numbers look suspiciously off. If you assume that they were measured at around 145 F, then correcting gets you right at your target numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1506" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T20:08:06.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6125" CreationDate="2012-01-27T20:18:25.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend double-checking your hydrometer and thermometer for starters, just to make sure you don't have an equipment problem. Secondly, for my own setup, &lt;strong&gt;the crush of the grain is the #1 factor&lt;/strong&gt; in my efficiency. When ordering online (which I rarely do) my efficiency drops like the gravity on a sour ale compared to my bad-ass local shop's crush. So you might want to get your grain re-milled after it arrives, or &lt;strong&gt;try a local brew shop&lt;/strong&gt; if you have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you eliminate those possibilities, then what I would recommend for you is to &lt;strong&gt;simply throw in an extra 1-2 pounds of base malt&lt;/strong&gt; into your recipes and keep on truckin'. I say this given that you say &quot;They taste great&quot;, and if it were me, I wouldn't start messing around with my mash (which, if you mess up, can cause off flavors like astringency) unless my beers started to suck. &lt;strong&gt;CONSISTENCY&lt;/strong&gt; is much more important than &lt;strong&gt;EFFICIENCY&lt;/strong&gt; in mashing (in my opinion). And it looks like your gravities are all about the same % down from your target, so you'll quickly learn to compensate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the opposite problem when I started doing all grain. I was shooting for 60-65% efficiency and got 84% on my first batch! (thanks to the Brew In a Bag technique.) I named that wheat beer my &quot;Accidental Weizenbock&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T20:18:25.187" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6125" CreationDate="2012-01-27T20:34:37.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with everything on the great answer above, but isn't 1.25qt/lb a pretty thick mash?  I'm off AG at the moment, trying to dial in some cool-side process issues, and never considered myself an expert, but I typically would shoot for 1.5-1.75qt/lb.  I know on my first AG batch, I was off to about the extent you are and my Dubbel became a Belgian Brown/Single Abbey.  IIRC, it was a water/grist ratio issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, doesn't the above chart assume that he is brewing with 100% barley and no wheat/rye/oats, which might have different starch conversion rates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you using an brewing software to help with volumes?  Not a Promash guy, but Beer Tools Pro helped me quite a bit with hot liquor/sparge volumes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other question, also mentioned in the above answer (which I voted for!) is have you measured pre and post-boil volumes?  The 'suggested' OG reaidings from NB might assume a certain boil-off rate that you are not hitting due to your low rolling boil (which I've heard is good to do with wheat-based beers, but most others require a more vigorous boil).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T20:34:37.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2012-01-27T20:56:53.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just stick with corn sugar.  The tabs always seem like a pain in the neck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also +1 on the table sugar no-no. Used it on my first saison, which took months to condition, then I all but wrecked it with table sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corn sugar is glucose and cane sugar is sucrose. Glucose is a monosaccharide (simplest type of sugar), and sucrose is a disaccharide (not as simple), made from a glucose molecule and a fructose molecule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not being a yeast expert, my opinion is that once your beer has the flavor you want, give the yeast something simple to metabolize that will result in the ONLY component you are missing: CO2 (and a little alcohol).  Who knows whats in those carb tablets.  Monosaccharide/glucose is where its at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T20:56:53.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6127" CreationDate="2012-01-27T21:16:06.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically you can clean the parts just like anything else with a sterilizing solution.  In order to clean the filter run the sterilizing solution through the system, or just soak it in the sterilizing agent.  Be sure to flush with plenty of water before filtering your beer to get rid of the sterilizer.  This site claims to use a bleach and water solution to sterilize and to store the filter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/mtippin/filter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hbd.org/mtippin/filter.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T21:16:06.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6127" CreationDate="2012-01-27T22:28:31.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just back flush the filter at a low PSI (6-8) with sanitizing solution. If you're looking for recommendations, I'm a fan of Iodophor. It's a no-rinse sanitizing solution (unlike bleach) that doesn't impart any off flavors when mixed properly. Only downside to it is that it will give an orange tint to most things it touches. You can store the filter in the refrigerator to minimize bacterial exposure/growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T22:28:31.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-27T22:54:05.217" Score="2" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently racked to a secondary, an amber ale of grain and extract of my own recipe after fermentation seemed complete. Am I doing my ale a favor by doing this and will it increase clarity and flavor? The taste and aroma are exactly what I'm looking for. I plan to bottle and condition in 5 days.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2099" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T23:58:12.007" Title="Secondary fermentaton objectives" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6134" CreationDate="2012-01-27T23:58:12.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that you've already racked, you probably don't want to hear this, but the common wisdom is to not rack to secondary at all. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/88/if-when-to-move-to-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;If/When to rack to secondary&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you performend a &quot;clean&quot; rack without introducing any oxygen or contaminants, then the beer will be fine with the added bonus of racking to the bottling bucket will be even easier since you have next to no trub to avoid. But I can't say that it will benefit your bear in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some commercial breweries transfer the beer to bright tanks - large shallow tanks that make it easier for the beer to clear. Your secondary can function as a bright tank, but you need to leave it for at least a couple of weeks to get any noticable clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're only leaving it in secondary for 5 days then you don't need to do it - next time just bottle instead and save yourself a racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T23:58:12.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6127" CreationDate="2012-01-28T00:11:51.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A filter without cartridge can be sanitised by pumping some starsan or other sanitizer through it. The cartridges are good for several brews, so after use I soak in water, drain and store the cartdrige in the filter in the fridge, filled with starsan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T00:11:51.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6125" CreationDate="2012-01-28T00:40:46.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the final volume of wort correct for the recipe? If your volume is high, your specific gravity will be correspondingly low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if you're leaving a lot of wort behind in the mash tun or brew kettle, then your efficiency will suffer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, it doesn't really matter what you're efficiency is. The important thing is to hit the same efficiency consistently, so you'll know how to adjust the recipe by adding base malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T00:40:46.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6125" CreationDate="2012-01-28T01:34:38.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;you say that you let the sparge water sit for 10 mins then drain. That's a fast batch sparge. In your situation, I'd do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;recirculate the mash: drain off a half a gallon or more and add carefully back to the mash. If you have a pump, continual recirculation is ideal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after adding the sparge liquor, stir so it's thoroughly mixed and recirc a little also.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leave for 30 mins minimum. It takes time for the sugars to leach out from the grain and into the sparge water. Cutting this step will reduce lautering efficiency. Feel free to leave it sitting for longer, but not less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, your process sounds good. Feel good that you made beer you like - everything else is just icing on the cake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T01:34:38.237" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6140" CreationDate="2012-01-28T02:06:44.403" Score="3" ViewCount="885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to get picky with my water profile on my next batch, and was going to pick an acid to lower my sparge water pH that didn't impart flavors.  So I'm avoiding the powered acids that are used to flavor wines (which is all that's available at my LHBS), and I'd like to go with liquid.  I'm seeing mention of phosphoric acid available at the hardware store, but I didn't know if that was just for cleaning and rinsing equipment, or if putting a few drops in the sparge water would be ok for human consumption.  Or if that's not good, other alternatives available at the hardware or health food, or some other store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T10:54:48.727" Title="Can the Phosphoric acid from the hardware store be used to adjust sparge water?" Tags="|sparge|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6139" CreationDate="2012-01-28T10:54:48.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Phosphoric acid itself is consumable, but to make it food safe, processing and packaging have to be done in a food safe manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use lactic acid 88% to acidify my mash and sparge water. Your LHBS probably carries this. Only a few milliliters are required, so a small plastic syringe or pipette is great for getting an appropriate dose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as using acid directly, you can lower the pH of your mash with Calcium Sulphate (Gypsum) and Calcium Chloride. These also affect the flavor profile of the beer, allowing the brewer to bring either the malt or the hops forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;understanding mash pH&lt;/a&gt;, How to brew, J. Palmer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T10:54:48.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6143" CreationDate="2012-01-29T00:53:48.910" Score="2" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Oatmeal Stout recipe that calls for 4 tsp/ 1 gram of Irish moss powder. The LHBS had Irish moss, but I wouldn't call it a powder. They're small flat pieces maybe the size of half a grain of rice. Should I pulverize it in a morter and pestle? I would assume this would make it more efficient. Or just measure out a 1 gram and not worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use my (near impossible to sterilize) morter and pestle, is there any concern that the irish moss would not be sterile? Its going in the last 10 minutes of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2101" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T05:28:06.230" Title="Irish Moss - powder form?" Tags="|irish-moss|sterilization|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6141" CreationDate="2012-01-29T01:48:07.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well if the recipe calls for a gram it shouldn't matter if its a powder or flakes, a gram is a gram. Irish moss is normally that flakey stuff you describe so I would just go with it either way as 4tsp or a gram.&#xA;For what its worth, its not going to make a difference in a big dark Oatmeal Stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T01:48:07.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6141" CreationDate="2012-01-29T03:05:37.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just add 1/4 tsp or 1g of what you have. Irish moss is a fining - it helps draw together proteins in the boil, and is primarily added to improve clarity, but it can also provide a finer head. It's not critical how much you use - some brewers use 1/4 tsp per 5 gallons, others 1 tsp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The moss doesn't have to be sterile - anything added to the boil is quickly sanitized since most organisms cannot survive the heat. I would just make sure the pestle and mortar is clean - I use mine for crushing curry spices, and I wouldn't any hint of that in a beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T03:05:37.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-29T07:58:31.313" Score="1" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a batch of cider 6 days ago, and it started fermenting nicely, however now the bubbles in the air lock have slowed to nearly 1/min (according to my recipe means it's fermented)&#xA;However this is really quick! it's pretty hot here (we've had a few 35 degree C days)&#xA;Will it be alright? should i rack it?&#xA;also, should i go about a secondard fermentaion?&#xA;cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2103" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T18:09:57.703" Title="Quick fermentaion, what should i do?" Tags="|fermentation|temperature|fermentation-temperature|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6144" CreationDate="2012-01-29T10:23:08.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hot ferment is likely to generate some unwanted higher order alcohols that taste like solvent.  You must taste it first to really know where you stand.&#xA;Some may say you can &quot;age that stuff out&quot; and its worth a try.  But while its aging think about how better to control your process and you'll be drinking the next batch before this batch ever ages out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T10:23:08.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6148" CreationDate="2012-01-29T10:25:50.800" Score="6" ViewCount="516" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I made my first ever extract brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brew day went pretty well. As I have a 32 litre brupak boiler with a hop strainer and tap I cooled the wort with cold bottled water straight in the boiler and ran it out through the tap when cool. This was really easy and hopefully served to aerate the wort. It took quite a while to boil 6 litres of water on the stove though which doesn't fill me with confidence at the prospect of a full-volume boil!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No fermentation action yet but I'll try to be patient, it's only 10 hours later!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few questions that came up - any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have an airlock on the FV, which goes through a rubber grommet in the lid. Should I have put vaseline on that for a better seal? The seal seems pretty good but I'm sure I've read something about vaseline.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What do people do about cleaning and sanitising the hop strainer and tap/ball valve on the boiler? Is it sufficient to run a load of hot water and detergent through it, relying on the fact that it gets hot to sterilise it next brew? Or do I have to take it apart?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I pitched the yeast (Safale 05) at 24 degrees but I wonder now whether I should have waited (it was bedtime!). If I've ruined the yeast is there anything I can do about that? Chuck more in?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to bottling, how can I start the syphon between primary FV and bottling bucket without putting my mouth on it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20887" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T16:49:14.330" Title="Extract brew, sanitizing hop strainer and tap? First brew day!" Tags="|yeast|bottling|sanitation|extract|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6146" CreationDate="2012-01-29T11:12:46.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unless there is an actual leak, you should be good.  Vaseline might make it easier to remove the stopper, but i think it could make it so the stopper doesn't &quot;grip&quot; and will push out under pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I Don't use a pot with a ball valve, so i couldn't tell you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;24 degrees c is plenty cool for yeast, so long as it's under 27 or so you're good, even up to 30 should be fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get an auto-siphon, they're absolutely worth it.  If it saves even one batch from contamination it's worth it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2105" LastEditorUserId="2105" LastEditDate="2012-01-29T11:36:54.017" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T11:36:54.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6146" CreationDate="2012-01-29T14:31:17.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stovetop full boils would be pretty rough.  If you can brew outside, look into a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0006L18N6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;turkey fryer&lt;/a&gt;.  They usually come with a 7-8 gallon kettle and a high-output propane burner.  You can often find them on sale at outdoor centers.  I paid $40 US for mine on clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No Vaseline please!  It's almost impossible to completely clean off plastic/rubber and will just be a place for grime to get stuck.  An airlock does not need a hermetic seal, especially during primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A good post-brew cleaning should be all you need.  The valve and screen will be thoroughly sanitized the next time you boil.  If you're really concerned, a few minutes before the end of your boil run some boiling wort (carefully please) through the valve into a stainless vessel and pour it back into the kettle.  But not necessary, in my opinion, as long as things were clean to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;24C is 75F, which is a fine temp for pitching.  I've pitched ale yeast as cool as 65F/18C and as hot as 82F/28C without ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As Mystere Man noted, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewmasterswarehouse.com/product/0101528/fermtech-autosiphon-38&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an auto siphon&lt;/a&gt; is absolutely the way to go.  It may be the best $10 I've spent on brewing.  If you don't have an autosiphon yet, you can start the siphon by filling the tube with clean water and capping both ends with your thumbs.  Then stick the racking cane in your fermenting vessel, lower the end that's going into your bottling bucket, and let it flow.  Practice with plain water first, but it's pretty easy once you get the hang of it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dsuNc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T14:31:17.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6146" CreationDate="2012-01-29T14:58:47.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are good answers here. Just wanted to pick up on the sanitary racking. The autosiphon is a good suggestion, although there is a sanitary way to rack without one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a 1-2&quot; piece of garden hose and slip this over the end of the siphon hose. You sanitize this while sanitizing the rest of the siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At siphon time, slip the piece of garden hose over the end of the siphon hose and suck. Don't suck all the way up so it reaches your mouth, but far enough that you can then pinch the siphon hose to hold the liquid level. Then remove the bit of garden hose and drop the siphon hose end where you need it. When you let go of the siphon hose, the liquid will flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works, but nowhere near as simple as using an autosiphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One downside with an autosiphon is that they can introduce air into the beer during transfers. I'm going to invest in a self-priming pump to avoid this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-01-29T15:09:48.663" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T15:09:48.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6144" CreationDate="2012-01-29T16:57:34.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should measure the gravity to determine if fermentation is complete.  Airlock activity is an inaccurate indicator.  Your recipe should list an expected final gravity, for a cider I'd expect it to be around 1.000 or below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High temperatures will cause fermentation to complete faster, and as brewchez mentioned, you will get better results if you can do a colder, slower fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking to a secondary may help clarify the cider, but isn't necessary, nor will it do anything to help a high temperature fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T16:57:34.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6153" CreationDate="2012-01-29T17:51:22.877" Score="43" ViewCount="120483" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many kits I've used, the instructions recommend using brewing sugar. Of course it's okay to use other sources of sugar, but I was wondering whether there are any benefits of using brewing sugar over these other types?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2106" LastEditorUserId="2106" LastEditDate="2013-01-07T10:13:32.197" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T11:10:13.197" Title="What are the benefits of using brewing sugar over types of sugar?" Tags="|ingredients|sugar|brewing|kits|" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-29T18:07:58.963" Score="7" ViewCount="5007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading online some suggestions to carbonate the batch of beer before bottling, and would like to get some details on quantities and method. I do love my home brewed beer, but I don't like the dregs in the bottle from adding sugar for carbonation before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2107" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T23:05:41.943" Title="Batch carbonation vs bottle carbonation" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2012-01-29T18:08:55.007" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIK, there are no benefits.  They're all basically the same.  Brewing sugar is corn sugar and while there may be chemical differences between it and other types of sugar, the end result in your beer will be indistinguishable.  Sugars like piloncillo or demarara can add a bit of flavor, but the result of adding corn, cane, beet, or brown sugar are pretty much identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T18:08:55.007" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6144" CreationDate="2012-01-29T18:09:57.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cider is more like wine than beer.  I give my ciders a good month or so in primary and several months in secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T18:09:57.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6152" CreationDate="2012-01-29T18:13:29.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way to avoid sediment in bottles if you prime your beer, whether you do it in bulk or per bottle.  I prefer doing it in bulk.  On average, I used 1 oz. of sugar for each gal. of beer.  You can adjust that for your desired level of carbonation.  Boil the sugar with as little water as possible.  I usually use around a cup.  Add it to the bottling bucket and rack your beer on to it.  That helps with mixing it thoroughly.  Give it a gentle stir with a sanitized spoon.  Don't stir so hard that you add air to the beer.  Bottle as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T18:13:29.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-29T20:48:36.520" Score="4" ViewCount="3237" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would a slotted false bottom prevent uniform compaction better than a perforated false bottom?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this model:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.org/12-Stainless-Steel-Domed-False-Bottom_p_1058.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewing.org/12-Stainless-Steel-Domed-False-Bottom_p_1058.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm researching parts for my first all-grain mash tun build. My intent is a round 10-gallon beverage cooler using a false bottom. All false bottoms I've come across are the round perforation type, except that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only advantage I can think of with this slotted false bottom is that it might prevent uniform compaction. Maybe it would be less resilient to channeling, but it seems that's the compromise of the design if I understand the issues correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T00:25:47.930" Title="Mash tun: slotted false bottom?" Tags="|equipment|mash-tun|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6152" CreationDate="2012-01-29T21:08:20.787" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To carbonate the batch, you need a sealed container that can withstand at least 60psi pressure. Many homebrewers use 5 gallon corny kegs. These are stainless containers, rated to 125psi and make it easy to either prime and naturally carbonate, or to force carbonate from a CO2 tank. Once carbonated, any sediment can be poured off in the first glass or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most just leave it there and serve directly from the keg - but if you want to then bottle the beer, for taking to parties etc., you can do that using a counter pressure bottle filler/&quot;beer gun&quot;, either &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blichmannengineering.com/beergun/beergun.html&quot;&gt;bought&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/we-no-need-no-stinking-beer-gun-24678/&quot;&gt;home made&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, the kegs, disconnects, CO2 tank etc.. can end up costing upwards of $150 so this isn't a cheap option. But after bottling a couple of batches you might feel that life's too short to bottle, and the ease and convenience of kegging justifies the expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T21:08:20.787" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6156" CreationDate="2012-01-29T21:18:09.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The principle of the false bottom is that it makes the distance to the drain and the effort needed by the liquid to get there more uniform compared to other designs, such as a hand made manfold or a bazooka screen. This is mainly a concern if you are fly sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the blichmann false bottom, which looks very similar. Compared to my old brewery with a hand-made manifold, extraction efficiency went from 70% to 90%. There were other changes, such as using recirc pumps, but I'm pretty sure the false bottom does contribute to that increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T21:18:09.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6156" CreationDate="2012-01-29T21:34:11.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's an appreciable difference between slots and holes, but the slots let a slightly lower volume of liquid through, since there's less surface area opened up.  If you're doing a recirc system, that might not be desirable as it could restrict your flow, but if you are fly sparging, that might be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, if less liquid volume passes through the false bottom, the wort would probably be better filtered, but I can't imagine it's to a significant, or even noticeable, degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T21:34:11.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2012-01-29T21:34:36.527" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that different kinds of sugar have different levels of &quot;sweetness&quot;, thus the type of sugar you use affects how much sugar you need to achieve the same effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing sugar is Dextrose, while table sure is sucrose.  Sucrose is actually a much larger molecule, being about twice the size of dextrose.  So I believe you need more of it to achieve the same effects (as I understand it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, a little more research proves that it's the reverse.  Sucrose is sweeter than Dextrose, but... by mass sucrose and dextrose will be equally as sweet.  By volume, however there is a difference as Sucrose is a larger molecule, thus taking up more space.  1lb of Sucrose should be the same as 1lb of dextrose, but they will occupy different volumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2105" LastEditorUserId="2105" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T00:32:27.853" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T00:32:27.853" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2012-01-29T21:38:58.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that is has to do with the &quot;fermentability&quot; of the sugar, and the flavors left behind.  Dextrose (corn sugar) is popular because it has a small influence on the flavor of the beer and the yeast can process it easily and completely.  I do not know how many others can say the same, but I expect most of the simple carbohydrates are similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T21:38:58.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6156" CreationDate="2012-01-30T00:25:47.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Compaction is a function of speed during draining and resistance of the &quot;filter&quot;.  A perforated false bottom offers less restriction than the slotted one.  But the compaction is just a function of how hard you are pulling out of it, which is entirely managable with the valve out of the tun (or off the pump if that's your thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently upgrades to a perforated FB in a keg, and recirc with a pump through the mash.&#xA;As I was working to regulate my temperature I noticed that the grain bed was pretty firm.  I re-stirred the mash and slowed the flow a bit more with the ball valve, after that the mash was still pretty fluid.  Its only the third batch with the pump set up in my rig so I am still adapting to how it works.  I hope my example sort of demostrates that its more of a flow rate thing than a manifold thing I suspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T00:25:47.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-30T07:11:24.437" Score="2" ViewCount="4625" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making cider, can you carbonate it using tablets?  and should this be in the demijohn or in the bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2103" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T01:33:26.967" Title="Can i use carbonation tablets in cider?" Tags="|carbonation|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6163" CreationDate="2012-01-30T10:52:26.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, you can use them and they'll work just fine. I've heard the carb levels can be low with 1 tab per bottle, so you'll have to experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As an aside, a little cheaper method that a lot of cider makers do is to thaw out a can of frozen apple juice concentrate and dump it into a 5 gal batch before bottling - or about 8-10oz of Apple Juice per gallon can be used as well.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2108" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T10:52:26.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6172" CreationDate="2012-01-30T19:36:47.447" Score="4" ViewCount="424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about doing a very long-term aging on a batch of mead.  The original idea was that when I have children in the future, I'd brew a batch as soon as Jr. comes home, and age it until Junior's 21st birthday (legal drinking age here in the US).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know almost nothing about aging for extended periods.  What do I need to learn in order to have this be successful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Since it appears this idea was poorly thought out, I'll probably try to do something else.  Thanks for the answers/commentary!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="106" LastEditDate="2012-02-01T14:34:54.773" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T14:34:54.773" Title="Is there anything different I need to do to age a mead for an extreme amount of time?" Tags="|mead|aging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6146" CreationDate="2012-01-30T20:04:38.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I bought an auto siphon here is the technique I used when siphoning...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have a small tub/pot/bucket filled with sanitizer (one step and water). After sanitizing my siphon, I would dip it into the tub and start siphoning the sanitizer. After I get it flowing I'd rinse my hand with sanitizer and use my thumb to cap the siphon. Then I would try as best I could to rinse the part of the siphon that was in my mouth in the sanitizer while keeping my thumb as a cap. After this, placing the siphon in your brew bucket, release your thumb and it should start siphoning. Although it was probably unnecessary, I would usually run the siphon into a separate bucket or pot until I saw my beer flowing through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1062" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T20:04:38.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6168" CreationDate="2012-01-30T20:07:52.317" Score="5" ViewCount="8085" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently moved and my water here is quite soft with a very low pH. As such, I've taken to adding many of my brewing salts in the brew kettle and only using salts in the mash to balance the pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with a very low pH in the water to begin with, brewing a very dark beer means I'm going to leave as much calcium out of the mash as possible (because calcium lowers the pH). I do add some because I raise the pH with a combination of Sodium Bicarbonate and Calcium Carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know calcium is vital for efficiency and is supposed to help stablize alpha-amylase, so I was wondering what ppm I should be after with Calcium in the mash to ensure the best efficiency and alpha-amylase stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is 50 ppm, but I'm hoping someone out there has a legit answer. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T14:07:48.330" Title="What Calcium ppm is required in the mash for alpha-amylase stability and mash efficiency?" Tags="|mash|water|efficiency|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6167" CreationDate="2012-01-30T20:20:41.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're on the mark. a minimum of 50ppm is considered beneficial, while some water sources have in excess of 250ppm with no problems, such as Burton (295ppm) and Vienna (250ppm) water. But since you want to reduce the amount of pH reduction, your plan to add only 50ppm in the mash and put the rest in the boil is a good one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calcium plays a role in many areas - the mash, in sparge water and in the boil, and in the fermentor, so as long as some of your calcium gets to reach all these areas, then I think you're ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpi.edu/dept/chem-eng/Biotech-Environ/beer/water2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Brewing, The Art and Science&lt;/a&gt;, lists beer styles ranging from 50-200 ppm in calcium. It also describes how calcium is used from the mash through to packaging:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Of the ions required for brewing, calcium is by far the most&#xA;  important. This is because of the acidifying effect that calcium has&#xA;  on the wort. [...] A combination of the presence of calcium ions and&#xA;  the decrease in pH has a number of effects on the brewing process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The lower pH improves ß-amylase activity and thus wort&#xA;  fermentability and extract. The optimum pH for ß-amylase activity is&#xA;  about 4·7. Wort produced from liquor containing no calcium has a pH in&#xA;  the order of 5·8 - 6·0, compared to values in the range of 5·3 - 5·5&#xA;  for worts produced from treated brewing liquor. The activity of the&#xA;  ß-amylase then is greatly enhanced by the addition of calcium, this&#xA;  enzyme increasing the production of maltose from Amylose, and thus&#xA;  making worts more fermentable.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Calcium has a beneficial effect on&#xA;  the precipitation of wort proteins, both during mashing and during the&#xA;  boil.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Protein-H + Ca2+ (r) Protein-Ca ¯ + 2H+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The hydrogen ions released further reduce the pH which encourages&#xA;  further precipitation of proteins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Proteins are also degraded, that is converted to simpler substances by&#xA;  proteolytic enzymes called proteases. These are found in the malt, and&#xA;  have optimum activity at pH values of about 4·5 - 5·0. The reduction&#xA;  in pH then caused by the presence of calcium encourages proteolysis,&#xA;  further reducing protein levels and increasing wort Free Amino&#xA;  Nitrogen levels (FAN).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;FAN compounds are utilised by the yeast during fermentation for the&#xA;  manufacture of amino acids, and an increase in FAN levels in the wort&#xA;  improves the health and vigour of the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;High protein levels in beers also have negative effects, making beer&#xA;  more difficult to fine and encouraging formation of hazes, in&#xA;  particular chill hazes. Product shelf life can also be adversely&#xA;  affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Calcium ions protect the enzyme a-amylase from inhibition by heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a-amylase is an endo enzyme, cleaving the internal 1,4 glucosidic&#xA;  links of amylopectin resulting in a rapid reduction in wort viscosity.&#xA;  The optimum temperature range for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a-amylase activity is 65°C - 68°C, but the enzyme is rapidly destroyed&#xA;  at these temperatures. Calcium stabilises a-amylase to 70 - 75°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It can be seen then that the presence of calcium has positive effects&#xA;  on the activity of a-amylase, ß-amylase and Proteases, some of the&#xA;  most important enzymes in the brewing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The drop in pH encouraged by Calcium ions in the mash and copper&#xA;  helps afford the wort and subsequent beer produced a greater&#xA;  resistance to microbiological infection.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The reduced pH of the sparge liquor reduces extraction of&#xA;  undesirable silicates, tannins and polyphenols from the mash bed. The&#xA;  extraction of such materials is encouraged by alkaline sparge liquor.&#xA;  These materials are very undesirable, contributing to harsh flavours,&#xA;  hazes in the finished beer and decreased beer stability.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Calcium precipitates oxalates as insoluble calcium oxalate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This again occurs in both the mash tun and the copper. If oxalates are&#xA;  not removed they can cause hazes in finished beers and also contribute&#xA;  to the formation of beerstone in FV's, CT's and casks. Oxalates are&#xA;  also thought to promote gushing in certain beers, although this is not&#xA;  generally a problem to the micro brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your low water pH probably means few dissolved solids, particularly (bi)carbonates, which is a great starting point for brewing, as you are now in control over much of the water chemistry, compared to folks with water pH in the 7-8 range with larger amounts of dissolved solids, which can make brewing pale beers tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as the points you mention, Calcium is also good for long term colloidal stability, which helps reduce permanent haze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Confirmation of 50ppm &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the best results, your brewing water should have less than 50 ppm&#xA;  carbonates and around 50–75 ppm calcium ions.&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/beer-styles/article/indices/11-beer-styles/138-american-pilsner-style-profile&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BYO, american pilsner profile&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.cmu.edu/afs/cs.cmu.edu/user/wsawdon/www/water.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewing water analysis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.antiochsudsuckers.com/tom/brewingwater.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Everything you ever wanted to know about brewing water&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewery.org/library/wchmprimer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quickie Water Chemistry Primer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T16:36:42.800" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T16:36:42.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6165" CreationDate="2012-01-30T21:56:17.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your chances of success are slim -- 21 years is a long time. You'll want a very high ABV to reduce the viability of spoilage organisms. I'd even consider fortifying the mead with neutral spirits to bring the ABV to 20% or higher. (This is also a good way to halt the fermentation at a point where the residual sweetness from honey is to you taste.) When bottling, exercise great care in sanitation and exclude oxygen as much as possible. Use the longest, densest, most expensive corks you can find. Or use a Stelvin cap, or similar, to eliminate atmosphere exchange entirely. If using corks, consider sealing the cork with foil or (and this is mostly to look hardcore), wax. Adding the correct dose of sulphur to when bottling is a very good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing -- consider moving to Canada where the legal drinking age is 19.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T21:56:17.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6165" CreationDate="2012-01-31T00:53:12.860" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to careful sanitation keep it away from &lt;strong&gt;heat, light and oxygen&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat: At least keep it to room temperature, even better, a cool cellar or refrigerated storage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light: Brown bottles, or in a closed container (cellar/box/fridge)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxygen: Make sure whatever container you use is sealed properly.  They make oxygen absorbing bottlecaps, I don't know about corks.  A wax seal could help, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth saying twice:  sanitize carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T00:53:12.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6152" CreationDate="2012-01-31T16:32:37.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you google &quot;priming sugar calculator&quot; (I believe its Tastybrew.com) has a simple priming sugar calculator, and you can customize by BJCP style.  For instance a porter is going to have less carbonation than a weiss, which will have less than a saison.  You will need a kitchen scale, but these are a GREAT pickup even if you brew seldomly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I DO NOT CARE what all the forums say, I can tell the difference between beer primed with corn sugar (glucose - simpler sugar) and beers primed with table sugar (sucrose - more complex chain).  Have not done a straight side by side, so it could have been another process flaw.  All I know is the two beers I primed with cane sugar were the worst I made and were not carbed properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T16:32:37.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6165" CreationDate="2012-01-31T20:56:43.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;21 years is a really long time. My ~11-12% abv meads start going downhill after about 2 years. I agree with what the top poster said, but it still may not be enough to keep it for 21 years and still have it taste good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to think about ... age it about a year. Taste it. If it's good, freeze some of it. ;-) That'll slow down all the reactions almost completely. Just be careful if you try and freeze it in glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2108" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T20:56:43.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6152" CreationDate="2012-01-31T23:05:41.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, there is an Australian company that makes a special cap that traps the sediment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sedexbrewing.com/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sedexbrewing.com/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't used them myself, but there is a YouTube review &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2PPBmJZFd0&amp;amp;feature=results_main&amp;amp;playnext=1&amp;amp;list=PL236E8AAABC6E355D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;here&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2101" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T23:05:41.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6175" CreationDate="2012-02-01T09:36:23.483" Score="6" ViewCount="1053" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first brew has been in the primary fermenter for three and a half days (brewed Saturday night, it's now Wednesday morning). It's in a plastic bucket fermenter with an airlock. There are no bubbles coming out of the airlock, although there's a slight yeasty smell in the cupboard it's sitting in and the lid is bulging a bit. Through the translucent sides of the bucket I can see a two to three inch scum ring, but I can't tell whether that's krausen or just the remains of the foam head after aeration. I haven't opened the lid to check. The temperature in the room has been between 16c-19c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2113" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T18:36:57.647" Title="Nothing visible happening in fermenter after three and a half days - what should I do?" Tags="|beer|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6174" CreationDate="2012-02-01T10:01:40.640" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Relax. It sounds like fermentation is proceeding normally. The 3-inch scum ring is the krausen and is a sign of a healthy fermentation - a foam head wouldn't last 3 days. Your airlock is probably not air-tight so you don't see any activity. It's quite common - I've had this on a couple of brews. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a hydrometer reading in a couple of days, and you should see that the gravity has dropped to about 3/4 of your starting gravity, give or take a bit. You can leave it in the bucket for another week after that before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really worried about it and want to do something now to be sure it's fermenting along, you can do one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take a gravity reading now, you'll see that it's less than your starting gravity - probably around 1.020 assuming a 1.040 beer.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you can't see clearly through the lid, open the lid a little and peek at the white foam on top - if it's got brown stuff on top, then it's krausen and not foam from airating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-01T18:36:57.647" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T18:36:57.647" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6186" CreationDate="2012-02-01T16:33:29.180" Score="3" ViewCount="1256" Body="&lt;p&gt;Made a kit on Saturday, 1/2 lb. Caramel 80 specialty grain, 9.15 lbs rye extract. Kit came with the Wyeast American Ale smack pack. When I got the yeast pack out of the fridge, the pack was already smacked, so to speak. The inner sugar pod had already been breached at some indeterminate time, and so the yeast had eaten and gassed, etc. Since I had no idea when this had happened, I figured I was better off using some of the dry yeast I had on hand. So, I pitched 1 packet of Safale-05 Saturday around 5PM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sunday went by, blowoff tube was quiet, and I started thinking one packet wasn't going to be able to deal with 1.075 SG. Sunday night I went to my fridge full of jars, pulled out the jar of S-05 culture, made 2 pints of starter with a half cup of dextrose and poured that in Monday morning. Before opening the bucket lid to add the starter Monday morning, the blowoff tube was burping a little bit, so I figured the extra yeast would make sure everything got going great. Since then, silence. No activity as far as I can tell. It's pretty cool where the bucket is, air temp around 64, and the bucket was sitting on the tile/concrete floor. So I put it in a tub this morning and filled it up with 65 degree water. Did I pitch 32 oz. of infection/disaster into a fermentation that was doing ok? Or is the cool temp keeping things from getting going?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1616" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T13:49:25.590" Title="Fermentation hasn't started?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|temperature|extract|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6419" CreationDate="2012-02-01T17:35:46.780" Score="1" ViewCount="1884" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed up a saison/BGSA 13 days ago, OG of 1.088.   Don't have the grain bill/fermentables handy, but there was a good bit of sugar/highly fermentable adjuncts.  Pitched a 32oz starter with this yeast almost two weeks ago @ 68 degrees.  I realize that this is a little low for a saison, but I am looking for low-to-moderate esters, plus I don't have means to increase this up to the 80s.  Short lag time and heavy airlock activity after 12 hours, continuing for a few days.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crazy thing is, there is still visible airlock activity now, two weeks after pitching (temp has remained constant per the therm strip @ 68 degrees, ambient temp of same).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;will get a gravity measurement, but has anyone had this long of a growth phase with this yeast?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first and only other time working with a saison yeast (WLP 565/Dupont) was a bit of a disaster, probably due to underpitching (one vial only), stressing the yeast, and going a bit overboard with high fermentation temps (got it into the high 80's)...I eventually had to rack it onto a hefe cake to finish after it stalled at .040.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I just gunshy after my last experience?  I have no problem leaving this in the primary for 4 weeks or more, to clean up diacetyl and get this beer dried out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T21:29:47.073" Title="WLP 566 Saison Long Fermentation" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|saison|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-01T17:49:46.367" Score="6" ViewCount="27042" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time brewer here.  I'm concerned my batch is not progressing as it should.  Here's a quick run down of what I've done...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put my batch (which had a SG of 1.044) in the primary fermenter on Saturday and stored it in a dark room at about 68 degrees.  On Sunday the ailock was producing consistent, rapid bubbles.  On Monday the bubbles stopped.  On Tuesday there was still no activity so I popped the lid to take another gravity reading.  There was no foam on top and it looked like there was a ring of trub on the sides of the bucket, just above the liquid.  (I'm assuming it got there from foaming at some point right?) I took the gravity reading and it came out 1.006.  Based on my directions the ABV% should be 4.98.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two primary concerns:&#xA;1.  Why did the bubbling stop so soon?&#xA;2.  Why wasn't there any foam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its now Wednesday (end of day 4 in fermentation), and I plan on doing a secondary fermentation.  Should I get the batch in the secondary now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any solutions or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2116" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T14:34:16.473" Title="No Bubbles and No Foam after 3 Days" Tags="|fermentation|foam|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6178" CreationDate="2012-02-01T18:08:14.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perfectly normal for bubbling to stop and foam to drop at this point. I'd leave it in primary at least a week and then rack it secondary. Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="875" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T18:08:14.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6178" CreationDate="2012-02-01T18:10:33.027" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your hydrometer calibrated (use distilled water at 70 degrees, should read 1.00)?  Based on your readings, your yeast worked to 86% apparent attenuation ((44-6)/44).  That is a pretty solid fermentation, so give yourself a pat on the back for giving them a good environment to work in.  Sounds like you aerated well and pitched at the right temp.  Do you recall which yeast strain came with your kit?  It was likely Safale US-05, which is a great attenuator.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, and I cannot stress this enough:  Yeast activity is not always visible.  Said more thoroughly, airlock activity (or lack thereof), does not mean that the yeast are not working.  Your hydrometer reading shows you that the yeast are (and have been) working.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the style you are making, I would recommend leaving the beer EXACTLY where it is, and not messing with it until two weeks (minimum) from your brew/pitch day.  Even when the krausen ring has subsided (sounds like it has), the yeast are still at work cleaning up some other compounds that they made during the ACTIVE GROWTH PHASE of fermentation.  They will metabolize the diacetyl (buttery flavor) and continue to work and make you the beer you want.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Papazian says, &quot;Relax, don't worry and have a homebrew!&quot; (well, the last part is impossible since you just made your first batch, so just have a regular beer).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're antsy in the meantime, run to your LHBS and grab another kit and get another brew in the can!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T18:10:33.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6182" CreationDate="2012-02-01T18:16:56.277" Score="5" ViewCount="5896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building an electric RIMS system from an old barrel-style keg.  I picked up a 4500W 240V HWD element from Home Depot, and built a 1&quot; copper tube housing around it to let wort flow by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding from various homebrewing forums I browse is that if I run the element at 120V, I should reasonably expect to get about 1100W of heat from the element (1/2 the voltage equaling 1/4 the wattage), effectively making the element a ULWD type good for not scorching wort, but I'm scratching my head about that.  My understanding is that Watts = Voltage X Amperage, which seems to imply that my 4500W element at 240V would be 37 amps at 120V, which could cause all sorts of unpleasantness with my household power circuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have three questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why would 1/2 the voltage equal 1/4 the wattage, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is this enough wattage to maintain a mashing temperature for up to a 10 gallon batch in a stainless steel kettle, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;would I blow a 15A GFCI circuit by putting the March brew pump on the same line?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T19:50:23.140" Title="Electric RIMS wattage, voltage calculations" Tags="|electric|rims|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6181" CreationDate="2012-02-01T18:50:53.150" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can understand your confusion - with potential, current, resistance and power all being defined in terms of each other, it's tricky to know where to start!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An electric element is a &lt;strong&gt;resistive load&lt;/strong&gt;, with constant resistance. Consequently, the power rating is given relative to the voltage across the element. Since we know the power and the voltage, we can work out the constant resistance. For your 4500W element at 240V you have &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P = V^2/R, or R = V^2/P = 240*240/4500 = 12.8 ohm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When running at 240V, the current across the element is I = V/R = 240/12.8 = 18.75 A.  (I have a 5500W element, and that draws about 22.5A so this figure seems resonable.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you then reduce the voltage to 120V, the current is correspondingly halved also:&#xA;I = V/R = 120/12.8 = 9.375A.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculating power, P = VI = 120*9.375 = 1125W&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to the &lt;strong&gt;1/4 power&lt;/strong&gt; is that because of the constant resistance, when you reduce the voltage by half, you also reduce the current flowing through the element also by half, hence the 1/4 power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run a 5500W element in a HERMS system, and it's barely on - IIRC about 16-20%. I would think that 1125W is plenty to maintain a 10 gallon mash at temperature. There's no way it's losing 1Kw of energy to the environment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A march pump draws 1.4A, plus the element at 9.4A gives a total draw of 10.8A. A 15A circuit has a max recommended load of 80% = 12A, so you are below the max. You won't trip the breaker under normal load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-01T19:15:46.117" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T19:15:46.117" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6181" CreationDate="2012-02-01T19:00:22.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For calculating heating element amp draw (as well as other useful things like water heating time), check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.manskirtbrewing.com/calcs.shtml#electrichdr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Javascript calculator on my website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for your questions three:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Algebra&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Watts = Volts * Amperage&lt;/strong&gt; is correct, but we need to go back a step to Ohm's law (&lt;strong&gt;Volts = Amperage * Resistance&lt;/strong&gt;) to work this out.  We can rearrange Ohm's law to &lt;strong&gt;I = V/R&lt;/strong&gt;, where &lt;strong&gt;I&lt;/strong&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;Amperage&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can then add these two formulas together by substituting &lt;strong&gt;V/R&lt;/strong&gt; for &lt;strong&gt;I&lt;/strong&gt; in the Power formula (power is measured in watts):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P = V*I&lt;/strong&gt; becomes &lt;strong&gt;P = V*(V/R)&lt;/strong&gt; or just &lt;strong&gt;P = V*V/R&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solving for Resistance gets us &lt;strong&gt;R = V*V/P&lt;/strong&gt;.  Assuming your element is &lt;strong&gt;rated&lt;/strong&gt; 4500 watts &lt;strong&gt;at 240V&lt;/strong&gt;, this means it is offering &lt;strong&gt;12.8 ohms&lt;/strong&gt; of resistance.  That is a &lt;strong&gt;constant R&lt;/strong&gt; in our calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now we just plug into our modified power formula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P = 240*240/12.8 = 4500 watts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P = 120*120/12.8 = 1125 watts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- Edit: I apologize, I misread the question - For a recirculated mash (like a RIMS or HERMS system) I think this will be fine, but I don't have any personal experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for a boil, 1125 watts is pretty light for a 10 gallon batch.  It may be able to maintain a boil at full power, but it will take over 3 hours to get 10 gallons of 70F water to boiling.  I use a 5500W element at 240V in my kettle, and run about a 70% duty cycle to maintain a good boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- Unlikely, but possibly if the March has a high startup spike.  1125W at 120V draws 9.38A.  The March is rated at only 1.4A.  So technically, there should be enough headroom for your March pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that's all clear.  It's kind of hard to get algebra across in this format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-02-01T19:50:23.140" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T19:50:23.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6187" CreationDate="2012-02-02T12:45:47.860" Score="2" ViewCount="2013" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed a 1.060 OG IPA last night (extract), pitched a packet of US-05 reconstituted with 5 ounces of water.  Pitched at 68 degrees, but I wanted a clean fermentation with minimal esters, so I have the fermenter at an ambient temp of 63 degrees.  Less than 12 hours of a lag, and I'm seeing some airlock activity, thermstrip on the fermenter reads 63 degrees.  A couple of questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.)  I know this is the low, low end of US-05's preferred fermentation temperatures, but unfortunately, I do not have temp control at the moment, so its either 63 degrees (basement) or 68/70 degrees (main floor of house).  Do I have yeast strain issues at 63 with US-05?  I would warm it up to 68/70 after a week or so for a diacetyl rest (may not be necessary).  The other problem is there might be some minimal draft/temp fluctuation in the basement this time of year.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.)  I have never top-cropped before, but want to use this yeast for a cream ale I'm doing next week.  The common knowledge is that US-05 rarely needs a starter, but since I am propogating from a working batch, I thought it might be a good idea.  The alternative is just cropping, funnel into a vial, and pitch into the cream ale (OG will likely be low .060's).  Small starter with the stir plate or no?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T22:29:25.877" Title="US-05 Fermentation Temperatures / Top Cropping" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|reusing-yeast|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6176" CreationDate="2012-02-02T13:23:01.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the information given, it sounds like you have just prolonged the yeast's lag phase.  During this time, the yeast are acclimating to their environment and PREPARING to reproduce and start munching some sugar chains.  I would venture the guess that by re-inoculating with a starter batch, you have simply changed the environment for these yeast and all but 'reset' the lag phase (particularly for the couple-hundred billion cells that were in the starter and are now preparing to have an orgy/banquet in your wort).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lag phase is when the yeast are building up their health in preparation to multiply(uptaking oxygen, nutrients, etc.), so the good news is, you will likely have a very healthy group of yeast.  Also, I don't think overpitching is a huge concern based on your SG, but I might leave this beer in the primary for a few days/one week longer than planned just to make sure the yeast clean up any acetaldehyde (will lend a green apple taste/nose to your final product) that is produced, and can be a result of overpitching.  Hopefully, by this point, you are seeing some of the airlock bubbles that put us neurotic homebrewers at ease.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water bath is a good idea, a therm strip for your fermenter is another good idea.  Ambient air/ground temps are one thing, but once the growth phase starts, those yeasties can produce a lot of heat in the exothermic reactions as they multiply and metabolize sugars.  Fermenter temp can vary against ambient/ground temp by 5-10 degrees &lt;strong&gt;easily&lt;/strong&gt;.  I myself just pitched a reconstituted packet of US-05 and am letting it ferment at 63 degrees, which is the low, low end of this yeast's comfort zone.  Hopefully, it will prove itself as the hard worker that everyone touts it to be.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RDWHAHB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-02-02T13:49:25.590" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T13:49:25.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6184" CreationDate="2012-02-02T13:28:44.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only problem with a complete repitch is that you generally want to go from lower gravity to higher gravity, lower IBUs to higher IBUS, lighter to darker.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top-cropping should work fine, but you'll need to harvest while it's a high-kraeuesen (if you had activity this morning, you'll be at high kraeusen this evening or tomorrow morning), and that can be a smallish window: generally 2 or 3 days max.   At the temperature you're fermenting at, it may take a little longer and have a little less &quot;high&quot; kraeusen than otherwise, but it should be fine.  the only reason the dry yeast doesn't need a starter is that you're pitching so many yeast cells from a 11.5g packet.   You will most likely need a starter unless you can get the whole kraeusen directly into the next beer while it's still fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be fine at that low temperature, as long as the temperature is stable there.  Basically, if it's fermenting at that temperature now, it will be fine there for the duration.   If you're really concerned about diacetyl, you can certainly move the fermentor to the warmer area of the house when the yeast has had 4 or 5 days of fermentation (or has 2-5 gravity points remaining to hit your FG).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T13:28:44.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6189" CreationDate="2012-02-02T15:06:30.953" Score="7" ViewCount="2530" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've decided to begin assembling the components for temperature control, as I am walking around telling new homebrewers that its the best thing one can do to improve quality, yet I myself don't have it.  I am going to buy a temp controller and a freezer (but will need to make space, as I live in a small rowhouse), but was wondering which controllers are best for homebrewing.  There seems to be quite a bit of price difference out there.  At the high end, I was looking at this one by Ranco:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000LDE41C&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Ranco-ETC-211000-000-Electronic-Temperature-Control/dp/B000LDE41C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1328194583&amp;amp;sr=8-3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also by Ranco, but a third the price:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0015NV5BE&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/RANCO-ETC-111000-Digital-Temperature-Control/dp/B0015NV5BE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1328194583&amp;amp;sr=8-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard of some people having good experiences with Johnson, such as this one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00368D6JA&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1328194583&amp;amp;sr=8-2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer to have to do minimal wiring/splicing, etc. myself, as my wife is already patient enough with my obsession and don't want to add and electrical fire and burned-alive dog to the mix to test it further.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe this should be a community wiki?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T19:26:01.797" Title="What to look for in a temperature controller" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|lagering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6188" CreationDate="2012-02-02T15:31:55.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Temperature/TemperatureSwitches/DigitalPanelMount/SeriesTS/Ordering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Love TS-13010&lt;/a&gt;.  The price has gone up a bit, but you may be able to find a deal on the eBay.  I wired it into an electrical box so I can just plug any devices I want temperature controlled into it.  Then you don't have to ruin the wiring in your freezer, and you can convince your wife that you can still use it to store meat :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ITRxb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how mine is wired:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYM16.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And since the front is splash-proof, I even used one to replace the analog temp control in my kegerator fridge!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u0nQ7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T15:31:55.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6188" CreationDate="2012-02-02T19:03:19.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 of the Johnson analog controls. Super easy to use, no wiring involved. Works like a charm. I just need to pick up a Thermowell sometime soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T19:03:19.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6188" CreationDate="2012-02-02T19:34:31.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rebelbrewer.com/shoppingcart/products/Refrigerator-Thermostat.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;analog thermostat&lt;/a&gt; from Johnson with my keezer. (No affiliation with Rebel. Just like them personally.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't require any splicing/wiring. Very convenient. Just need to run the temperature probe into the freezer somehow. (I have a collar on mine, so it works perfectly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastEditorUserId="2097" LastEditDate="2012-02-02T23:13:03.067" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T23:13:03.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6188" CreationDate="2012-02-02T20:50:33.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up a unit on ebay that came with it's own thermocouple and SSR for about $40, free shipping.  You'd need to build a housing like the Love digital one, but it's a fun little project and it works perfectly.  I have the same units hooked up to my electric HLT for controlling sparge temp and one on order for my electric RIMS system I'm building.  They're great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T20:50:33.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5539" CreationDate="2012-02-02T21:01:27.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be the hops. Were they all IPAs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard people say that long dry hopping can cause soapy flavors. This happened to a home brewer I know on his first IPA. He said it tasted soapy. He let it sit in the fridge for a few weeks and it was gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a guy here at work thinks the Founders Centennial IPA that we are all drinking tastes like &quot;detergent&quot;. I don't think that is an off flavor. It's the flavor of the hops at copious quantities. It's a strong flavor.  I think &quot;hops&quot; and he things &quot;detergent&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2119" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T21:01:27.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6184" CreationDate="2012-02-02T22:29:25.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used rehydrated US-05 for my last 4 batches.  The typical room ambient is ~61-63 degrees.  I typically pitch when my fermometer reads are 63-65, and the yeast take off within 6-8 hours.  For the active portion of fermentation, the fermometer typically reads between 67-69.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being that this yeast is spec'd on the low end at 59 you should be okay.  You could try rousing them periodically by gently rocking the carboy..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T22:29:25.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6188" CreationDate="2012-02-02T23:50:19.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two weeks ago I was in exactly the same place you were. I bought the Ranco model, just haven't bought my freezer yet (gotta clear space in the garage first). I'm also considering a thermowell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My criteria were that the controller needed a full range of brewing temps (~32-80F, which some cheap home aquarium models don't), that I could change it from heating to cooling, and that it be pre-wired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I chose the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.etcsupply.com/ranco-etc111000000-prewired-digital-temperature-controller-p-87.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ranco ETC-111000, pre-wired from ETCSupply.com&lt;/a&gt;. Haven't had a chance to use it yet, but it seems solid. I chose it over the Johnson model because you can change the state (cooling or heating) in the menu. With the Johnson model you have to unscrew the faceplate and change jumpers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ranco ETC-211000 model is their dual-stage model- one outlet controls heating, one controls cooling. I don't anticipate that I would use that feature. At worst, if I need simultaneous heating and cooling I can get a second controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After making my purchase, I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rebelbrewer.com/shoppingcart/products/Digital-Dual-Function-Refrigerator-Thermostat.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this two-stage pre-wired model&lt;/a&gt; from Rebel Brewer, which I might have bought if I had seen it before. It's a little bit more expensive than the others but cheap for a two-stage model. The submersible probe is a plus but it only reads in degrees Celsius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T23:50:19.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6163" CreationDate="2012-02-03T01:33:26.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can carbonate cider by bottle conditioning exactly the same way you would with beer.  Either use tabs or boil some form of sugar in a small amount of water, cool and add it to the bucket prior to bottling.  Make sure it is mixed well or the carbonation will be inconsistent between bottles.  Also, don't bottle until fermentation is complete, or they will end up overcarbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My last cider was carbonated with 4.5oz of corn sugar (the standard amount for carbonating beer). The level of carbonation seemed appropriate to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T01:33:26.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6198" CreationDate="2012-02-03T05:52:03.817" Score="2" ViewCount="1193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking I want to build myself a kettle with a heater, a valve and a cooling coil. So four holes. probably, two different sizes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perusing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements?page=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;electricbrewery.com&lt;/a&gt; site, they stress the need to use a chassis/radio punch, but they're expensive. For the same price, I could get one of the sets sold on ebay or harborfreight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading around other sites, I read the elements typically are 1&quot; National Pipe Straight Thread. This measures 1.3&quot; which is the size the conduit punches produces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the standard conduit hole sizes, some washers and a high temp o-ring, can I get a good install using this combination?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there more than one size heater element (the mounting portion)? Different threading? something else I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2121" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T19:45:29.653" Title="Can a water heater element be installed in a conduit punched hole?" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6197" CreationDate="2012-02-03T12:42:09.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a conduit punch if you knew exactly the size of the hole it makes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;look for Q.MAX punches - they're radial punches and much less expensive than the greenlee punches and are available all over the net, and ebay. I've installed elements in my kettles with these punches with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also check on the electric brewery forum to see if anyone can lend you the tools. I would, but return shipping from norway probably isn't all that economical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T12:42:09.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6197" CreationDate="2012-02-03T12:50:26.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the hole is the correct size and has clean, flat edges, however you make it is pretty unimportant.  I used a step drill bit for my kettles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nEstk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1&quot; NPST is the most common thread I've seen for elements.  There are some others out there, but just check before you buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue I can think of with a conduit punch is it not being made to punch stainless, which is much tougher than the soft metal used in conduit boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T12:50:26.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6201" CreationDate="2012-02-03T13:31:24.863" Score="7" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of people doing mini mash and partial mash.  I always thought they were interchangeable terms for the same activity.  But the other day I stumbled across someone who said &quot;this works well for both partial mash and mini mash batches&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a difference between the two, or are they synonymous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T00:57:07.883" Title="Partial-mash vs. Mini mash. Is there a difference?" Tags="|partial-mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6200" CreationDate="2012-02-03T14:12:13.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that a mini-mash is the process of using a small amount of 2-row to alter the fermentability of extract. While a partial mash is simply using a mash for a percentage of your OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I searched the net before answering this question, it seems that I was wrong -- 'mini-mash' and 'partial-mash' are used interchangeably. There may have been a distinction at one point, but not anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastEditorUserId="758" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T17:44:50.440" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T17:44:50.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-03T15:38:15.127" Score="8" ViewCount="601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to brew a 2.5 gallon batch of beer based on a West Coast IPA recipe for a standard 5 gallon batch.  Is there a calculation for scaling back the amount of hops used for bittering, aroma and dry-hopping?  I assume one doesn't add the same amount of hops as in a 5 gallon batch, right?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2122" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T16:17:46.030" Title="How much hops to use when reducing a batch size?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-03T16:06:20.227" Score="3" ViewCount="970" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got it in my head last weekend that I needed to homebrew again (it's been more than 10 years!), and so I boiled 4lbs of honey, 2lbs of ginger, 1lb of dark brown sugar and 1.5lbs of raisins (since none of that other stuff has much in the way of yeast nutrients beyond sugars) with some cinnamon and other spices and put it in my 6-gallon beer carboy with 1pckg of Red Star champagne yeast.  By the next morning, I had one bubble in the airlock every 4 seconds.  Less than a week later, I'm down to 1 bubble every 5 seconds.  So I'm using champagne yeast for primary fermentation.  I have no idea how this is going to turn out, how long it's going to take to finish primary fermentation or whether I just wasted $30 worth of ingredients.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is 1 bubble every 5 seconds too slow?  I've got it in a dark closet in my laundry room.  We're having a warm winter here in North Carolina, but there's no heat register in the room and it stays at around 66-67F all the time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it is what it is at this point--maybe I should have asked questions first and shot later--but I was curous.  Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2123" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T16:45:26.853" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T16:45:26.853" Title="Honey/Ginger Brew With Champagne Yeast" Tags="|yeast|mead|honey|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6202" CreationDate="2012-02-03T16:17:46.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can simply half the hops for a half sized recipe. Although hop utilization is non linear, at these boil sizes the difference is negligible compared to other factors, such as alpha-acids lost due to aging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For flavor and aroma hops, their contribution is also related to batch size and quantity of hops, so again, these can be simply scaled in proportion to the recipe size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T16:17:46.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6203" CreationDate="2012-02-03T16:31:08.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you followed sanitary practices, then I don't think you've wasted any money at all. sounds like a tasty mead...maybe a bit heavy on the ginger, but that's really down to personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making mead, it's a good idea to add yeast nutrient with the honey so the yeast have something to propagate from, and remember to airate well, especially if you boil the honey. Also, if you don't rehydrate dried yeast in water first, you can lose a lot of the viable cells when pitching, especially when pitching into a high-gravity wort\must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry - give the mead time and it will come out fine. Take a gravity reading in 3 weeks and you should see that it's about 1\4 of your OG. For the best chances of success next time, rehydrate dried yeast first, use yeast nutrient and airate well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T16:31:08.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6207" CreationDate="2012-02-03T21:26:10.817" Score="3" ViewCount="951" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off:&#xA;I realize there are a few somewhat related questions but I think my question will be specific enough to justify it's own question. Specifically &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/461/how-do-you-sparge-small-amounts-of-grain-in-a-partial-mash-recipe&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm not looking for an alternative solution(s) such as the accepted answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to try my first partial mash this weekend, and since I have the equipment on hand, I want to use my converted cooler mashtun. Partially to get used to the equipment before going full mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be using about &lt;strong&gt;5 lbs of malt&lt;/strong&gt; (4 two-row, 1 specialty). So I was planning on using the 1 quart per pound- so &lt;strong&gt;1.25 gallons of striking water&lt;/strong&gt;. I'd like to try the batch sparge technique and I'm planning on a &lt;strong&gt;7 gallon boil&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know with small mashes there are many techniques and it really doesn't take too much to get the sugars out. But I want to emulate a &quot;proper&quot; batch sparge yet compensate for the lower volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is should I split the 5.75 gallons (7 - 1.25) into 2 even sparges of ~2.875 gall , or should I do 2 sparges of a smaller volume and just add additional water to get to the boil volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I was looking at my 5 gal recipe and not the 6. There will be 5 lbs of two-row and 1.75 specialty in the mash and 5 lbs dme. I'm not changing numbers in the question so that the answers still have relevant calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1448" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T02:47:23.883" Title="Sparge volume for batch sparging a partial mash" Tags="|beer|partial-mash|batch-sparge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2012-02-03T22:04:44.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say you want to get to as close as a full mash\sparge as possible, but scaled down so that you are prepared for a full mash. In practice, this means using an amount of water proportinal to contribution to the OG contributed by the mash. For example, if you were to get half of your OG from extract, and half from the mash, then you'd aim for 3.5 gallons of runoff from the mash\sparge, and simply top up with 3.5 gallons as contribution from your extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other point of view is that you can use the full 7 gallons of runoff and add the extract to that. Although this doesn't emulate a full mash, since you are using much more water than you would use for a full mash, you will get the best extraction efficiency from the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go for using the full 7 gallons of runoff from the mash\sparge - there is so much difference between the partial and the full mash that you might as well take the benefit of being able to use more water. If you were fly sparging, then getting to know and recognise a good run-off rate is beneficial, but since you are batch sparging, I would simply use the full volume. In fact, this is a pretty close approximation of the full mash, since you'll be using only a slightly smaller volume of sparge water when doing a full mash anyhow. If you're full grain bill ends up being 10 pounds, then that's just a little under half a gallon per sparge, assuming you sparge twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sparging twice gives better efficiency than sparging once when batch sparging, so definitely do that regardless of your runoff volume. See the link below for details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Batch_Sparging_Analysis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Batch sparging analysis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T22:21:14.143" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T22:21:14.143" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2012-02-04T00:52:23.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With such a small mash compared to the final volume I'd shoot for enough sparging to just get your sugars out.  In this case I'd shoot at a 4 gallon total.  So at the end of the mash I'd add in 0.75 gallons of boiling water to raise the mash to mash out. (Not necessary, but it does help a little but with lowering viscosity IMO).  Recirc a little to clear the wort and set the bed.  Run off and collect that in the kettle.  Then I'd add another 2 gallons of wort, stir, recirc and run off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd add my missing three gallons of water for the 7 total.  Measure the gravity and add in the extract you need to hit your target pre boil gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you haven't accounted for yet which is EXTREMELY important in such a small mash is grain absorption and dead volume.&#xA;The grain will absorb some water that you just can't collect.  Usually 10% of the total volume is a good target, expect it to be 0.125 quarts or a cup of water. Second you should really fill your mash tun with a measured volume of water and drain it without grain it in.  The measure the water you get out of the tun and see what's missing.  This volume also should be accounted for in the make up water for that first sparge.  SO where I said add 0.75 it will be a little more.  Something like 0.75gal plus the cup for absorption, plus a little to over come the dead space.  Your dead space might be a big issue with a small mash.&#xA;In fly sparging dead space becomes a small factor in the efficiency, but in batch sparging I have found it to be a big contributor if your tun's geometry doesn't allow for a really great drain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do it this way prepares you for handling your larger sparges in the future.  Factoring in things like absorption and tun dead space.   For most beers in the 1.045-1.060 range the volume issues I mention become less of an issue.  But if you decide to brew a session beer and start pushing the lower end of your tuns performance (like your partial mash) managing the smaller volumes of a smaller mash becomes important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I batch sparge some low gravity english style ales routinely.  When I do I often find myself sparging and collecting less than my target boil volume just because the grist bill doesn't require more.  So I add a couple gallons of water in the kettle to get to my target preboil OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T00:52:23.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6200" CreationDate="2012-02-04T00:57:07.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No difference in my book.  Just synonyms to describe the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T00:57:07.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6197" CreationDate="2012-02-04T19:45:29.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a Greenlee 1-1/4&quot; radio (round) punch which is exactly the right size for 1&quot; NPT heater elements. I used a Camco, but I'm pretty sure they're all the same standard size. I made the holes in kegs and the punch worked perfectly. For a kettle a step bit &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; work, but the punch will go through like butter and you'll have a perfectly round hole with no flashing like you will have with a step bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T19:45:29.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6076" CreationDate="2012-02-05T23:35:02.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have reused them with NO troubles! Just re-sanitize. I don't make it a regular practice though. Only when I run out of caps when bottling!!!!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2134" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T23:35:02.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6214" CreationDate="2012-02-06T06:52:33.353" Score="5" ViewCount="3265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just started fermenting my first lager with my recent new temperature control equipment, but am having some problems getting to the correct temperature. I have a chest freezer with a johnson controls analog thermostat. My problem is that I have the thermostat set to 50°F (10°C), but according to a cheap air fridge thermometer I put in there it's 45°F (7°C). Then on top of that the carboy sticker thermometer says it's 52°F (11°C). I can't use a thermowell because I use a blow off tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://plus.google.com/u/0/105302654370137408138/posts/52vqyT2p9FW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a picture of my setup&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it always like this with this kind of setup or do I have something not hooked up right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T14:21:14.133" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T14:21:14.133" Title="Can't get accurate temperature with johnson controls and freezer" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|lager|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6213" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-06T11:45:07.373" Score="3" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a few batches of beer from those home brew kits sold at Brew n Grow.  When I cook the beer, I only am boiling 2.5 gallons instead of the whole 5, per instructions, and then I add the other 2.5 gallons from my tap water.  My question is, is they recommend a wort chiller.  When I add the 2.5 gallons to get my total of 5 gallons, it naturally cools down the beer because the tap water is cold.  What advantages does the wort chiller have?  I suppose the tap water doesn't get it all the way cool, but does a great portion of the cooling, because basically it is direct cooling as opposed to heat transfer cooling through a copper tube.  Does adding the 2.5 gallons of cold tap water introduce potential bacteria into my wort??  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any answers would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2136" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T22:59:36.837" Title="How to chill wort" Tags="|wort|kits|chiller|bacteria|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6212" CreationDate="2012-02-06T12:18:04.790" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that it's functioning as it should - most home thermometers that aren't calibrated are usually off by anywhere from 2-5 degrees F or more. Assuming your Johnson controller is the most accurate of the 3, then getting 45F and 52F can be considered within tolerance if the actual temperature is 50F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing that may be a surprise is that the temperature of the fridge will not always be at exactly 50F, but instead will go up and down by as much as 4-5F, only averaging around 50F over time. A few gallons of wort has a much higher thermal mass than the air, and will take much longer to change temperature, and so it's temperature remains pretty much constant at the average temperature, even though the temperature of the air is fluctuating. If you have a min/max thermometer handy, you might use that to determine the range of temperatures over 24h rather than relying upon a single temperature reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To save cycling the compressor on an off, which reduces it's working life, temperature controllers operate using a differential - how much above or below the set point the temperature should be before the controller activates or deactivates. The analogue Johnson controllers have a fixed differential of 3 1/2 degrees F below, while the digital controllers have an adjustable differential. Typically, the controllers function by switching on when the temperature rises above the set point, and switches off when the temperature has dropped below the set point &lt;em&gt;minus the differential&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the set point is 50F, with a differential of 3F, then the controller will activate when the temperature hits 51F (the first value above 50). It will continue to stay on until the temperature falls below 50-3=47F, i.e. 46F. At the point the temperature reaches 46F, the controller switches off, and doesn't turn on again until 51F, and the cycle repeats. This might seem like counter-intuitive behavior, but here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/johnson-controls-digital-temperature-controller-heating-questions-224031/&quot;&gt;anecdotal evidence on HBT&lt;/a&gt; that it's happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside to the differential is that the average temperature is just slightly below the setpoint - half of the differential below to be exact. With a setpoint at 50F and a differential of 3F, the average temperature will be around 50-(3/2) = 48.5F. If this concerns you, you can bump your setpoint up a degree to compensate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind also that during the first few days of fermentation, the temperature can be 5F above the surroundings for lagers, which you can also compensate for when setting the target fermentation temperature. For example, if you want to ferment at 50F, set the controller to 45F to allow for the heat produced during fermentation. For Ales, the difference can be 10F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you want to be really sure what your fermentation temperature is, it's best to add a thermowell and a separate thermometer. Don't be tempted to use the controller thermometer to both measure and control the wort temperature - the wort changes temperature very slowly, and the controller will overshoot massively, causing everything else in the freezer to be frozen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T12:18:04.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6213" CreationDate="2012-02-06T12:32:15.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're doing 2.5 gallon boils, and then adding another 2.5 gallons of (say) 55F tap water, then you're final temperature will be around 133F - the mid point of 212 and 55. For ales, pitching temperature is recommended at 75F, so you'll need to leave the wort for a few hours to naturally cool, or submerse in an ice bath to accelerate the cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're happy doing that then you don't need a separate chiller. A wort chiller will allow you to cool the 2.5 gallons in just a few minutes, but it might be overkill. More equipment to store, clean and sanitize. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to bacteria, you'll need to get a water report to see how much bacteria is in the water. There may be some bacteria, if not directly from the water itself, then from the faucet. However, it's rarely enough to noticeably contaminate the beer since the yeast quickly make the wort an unpleasant environment for the bacteria. Since you are already a few batches in, if there was a problem with the water, you would have noticed it by now! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T12:32:15.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6223" CreationDate="2012-02-06T16:16:08.263" Score="2" ViewCount="1694" Body="&lt;p&gt;Still back on extract brews due to time/equipment constraints, but I am making a cream ale this week.  Have one lb of flaked maize for a 5 gallon batch (along with 6 lbs of DME), and I understand that maize doesn't contain the enzymes to convert starches in mashing.  I picked up 2lbs of crushed 6-row to do a mini-mash with my flaked maize.  Most 'speciality grain steeping' procedures call for a half hour steep/mini mash @ 150-160.  Given the fact that I have maize in the mash, should I do a full hour steep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also planning on adding the 6 lbs of extract with about 10 minutes left in the boil as well to try to come somewhere close to an appropriate SRM/color.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T22:08:51.423" Title="Flaked Maize Mini/Partial Mash" Tags="|extract|partial-mash|extract-plus-grains|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6216" CreationDate="2012-02-06T16:38:40.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right - maize doesn't contain any enzymes and needs to be mashed alongside a high Lintner grain, like the 6-row you've chosen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the maize is pre-gelatinized, then you can just hit your target mash temp for the fermentability profile you want. For ungelatinized maize, you'll need to hold it at 170F for 15 mins to make the starch soluble and then boil for 15 mins to break down the cellulose. The corn is then ready for mashing, so you then add cold water and stir to bring the temperature down to your  your target mash temperature. Dried cereals can absorb lots of water so start with 2 qt/lb to be sure you don't end up with a thick gloopy sludge that's easily burnt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long to mash? I would probably just leave it for an hour, but if you want to be sure conversion is complete, then you can perform an iodine test, although it's been &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4417/is-the-iodine-test-for-starch-conversion-pointless&quot;&gt;questioned&lt;/a&gt; if these tests are really useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/cereal-mash.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gelatinization temperatures and cereal mash&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T16:38:40.957" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6213" CreationDate="2012-02-06T17:02:15.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its not recommended to add hot wort to a glass carboy or plastic bucket either as the glass could crack or the bucket melt. I go 2.5 gal boils too, and simply set it in the sink with some ice and cold water around it (cover the boil pot with a lid to reduce contamination), and let it cool to 70 degrees. Then add it to my carboy and add the additional 2.5 gallons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need for a wort chiller for a batch that small. Now for all grain brewing over 5 gallons, I can see the need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1957" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T17:02:15.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2012-02-06T19:26:55.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checkout &lt;strong&gt;Reusable Beer Labels for Home Brewers&lt;/strong&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beerclings.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Clings&lt;/a&gt;.  This is by far the easiest way to label, plus you can reuse the labels.  They work great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2137" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-29T13:52:39.360" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T13:52:39.360" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-06T21:07:08.203" Score="6" ViewCount="2076" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best method to use a temperature controller during fermentation? If you're using a freezer (or warming apparatus) connected to the controller, how do you compensate for the fact that the wort's interior temperature can be several degrees higher than the air temperature around the fermentor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6212/cant-get-accurate-temperature-with-johnson-controls-and-freezer&quot;&gt;answering a recent question&lt;/a&gt; about temperature control inside a freezer, mdma stated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Finally, if you want to be really sure what your fermentation&#xA;  temperature is, it's best to add a thermowell and a separate&#xA;  thermometer. Don't be tempted to use the controller thermometer to&#xA;  both measure and control the wort temperature - the wort changes&#xA;  temperature very slowly, and the controller will overshoot massively,&#xA;  causing everything else in the freezer to be frozen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was enlightening to me. I just bought a temp controller and until reading this post I had been planning to put the controller probe into the thermowell. If I understand what mdma is saying, because the relatively dense mass of the wort will not change temperature as quickly as the surrounding air, by the time the probe in the thermowell has reached the target temperature, the air surrounding the fermentor will have dropped considerably farther. Then the ambient temp will continue to chill the wort itself, resulting in a lower-than-expected wort temp and wider swings in temp as the controller cycles cooling on and off, thus defeating the goal of maintaining a consistent temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Side note: I suspect that when fermenting ales at room temperatures, the rest of the freezer is unlikely to get all the way down to freezing temperatures, but it would still be a significant variance.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do you balance between air temp and wort temp? Do you just keep an eye on it and adjust the controller if the difference is significant? How much do you compensate between air temp and wort temp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T22:03:53.770" Title="How to compensate for wort internal temperature when using a temp controller?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2012-02-06T22:00:32.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;+1 for a sharpie on the caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes print labels out and wet the back of the paper with a sponge that has been soaked in milk - then slap the labels on.  When the milk dries, the labels are stuck on pretty good...and are super easy to remove with a short soak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2108" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T22:00:32.407" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6220" CreationDate="2012-02-06T22:03:53.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether you are heating or cooling you simply need to equilibrate the wort to the temp of the freezer (in your example).  Meaning chilling the wort to the temp you expect to ferment at.  I have never had the problems that mdma describes in the quote you provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't put 80F wort in a carboy into a freezer unit and set it to 65F, that will create the problem mdma describes.  Chill to 63-67F first.  IF you can't do that with your chilling, method, then put the fermentor in there first without the probe on it.  Let it equilibrate, then attach (or insert) the temp probe to the vessel/wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start with just a degree or two of difference between the ambient temp and the wort temp things will work out fine.  I tend to tape the probe to the side of my fermentor.  I tape a small hand towel that's been folded over a couple times against the fermentor to make an insulated pocket.  Then slide the probe in there against the carboy/bucket directly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also can to play with the differential settings on the controller too.  That will ensure the device cuts out prior to things getting too far away from your set point.  Say you are trying to cool to a set-point of 50F, setting the differential to cut out at 55F will let the carboy &quot;catch up&quot; to the chilled air before the freezer comes on again.  If the differential is set to 51F you are likely to overshoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T22:03:53.770" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6216" CreationDate="2012-02-06T22:08:51.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With two pounds of base malt, and one pound of maize, you can certainly get away with 30 minutes and expect full conversion.  Thats been the case in my experience, especially at 154F temps.  The warmer the mash the faster things progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And most flaked maize is pre-gelatinized, BTW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T22:08:51.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2012-02-06T23:26:40.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't need anything too custom, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerlabelizer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Labelizer&lt;/a&gt; is a great website for making easy labels. They claim to have good luck using &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.bullcityhomebrew.com/?p=124&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;milk as an adhesive&lt;/a&gt;, though I've yet to personally try it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2005" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T11:34:38.310" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T11:34:38.310" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6226" CreationDate="2012-02-06T23:52:01.293" Score="2" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;While picking up supplies for my 2nd brew yesterday, I noticed that I'm using the same LME for this brew (pale ale) as I did for my last (brown ale). In fact, I only saw the one barrel, so I think this could be the only LME my shop carries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me this seems odd. The only differences in ingredients for these 2 brews are the 2ish pounds of grains, and the hops. It seems like 6lbs of extract is by far the major component of each, and I would think it provides the majority of the character. Am I limiting my beer's flavor by using this 'one-size fits all' extract?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;follow up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read about all-grain brews, and I would think that mashing a specific combination of malted grains would provide a much more variable flavor than using a standard extract. Is this why all-grain seems to be the preferred method? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2005" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T01:40:56.717" Title="Liquid Malt Extract Variation" Tags="|malt|partial-mash|lme|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6225" CreationDate="2012-02-07T01:10:56.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most beer is made from a base malt plus specialty grains. In your case, you're using LME as your base malt instead of whole grains, but the result is largely the same as an all-grain brew. The base malt provides the bulk of the sugar that the yeast eats and the additional malt and grains give it flavor and character. Selecting different malts and grains to add to the base malt changes a beer as much as or more than selecting different hops. The same base malts are used for a variety of beer styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different types of base malts and they can also be made into extract. That your LHBS only appears to carry one in bulk probably means that's their best seller. (Probably light pale malt, the backbone of many ales.) They likely have cans or packages of LME and DME made from other types of malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of all-grain brewing is control. You can make an excellent beer from extract or a partial mash, but only all-grain brewing allows the brewer total control over the brewing process. Sometimes the results may only be subtly different, but that's the fun in the hobby!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't already, I recommend picking up a guide to homebrew, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;John Palmer's How To Brew&lt;/a&gt;, at your LHBS. There's lots of detail in the books about the hows and whys of different malts and hops and yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T01:10:56.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6225" CreationDate="2012-02-07T01:40:56.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make a large range of great brews using the same base malt all the time; regardless of extract or all grain brewing.  The variety in appearance and flavors style to style is in the specialty grains.  When I extract brewed I always bought the same style of DME (light) and did everything else with specialty grains.  (I think golden, amber, brown, dark extracts are a waste if time and create a real lack of understanding of what you're putting into your recipes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only advantage all grain gets you over this is mash profile (body and fermentability control) and a slightly better range in base malt choice.  But when getting started, using the same extract base over and over is the best way to learn about the speciality grains, focus on good yeast practices and fermentation control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T01:40:56.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6071" CreationDate="2012-02-07T04:58:37.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe most commercial breweries that use glass bottles, accept a 2% breakage factor. I also believe that a glass bottle can only be used so many times before the glass becomes weak and requires melting and re-firing. The Red Barron caper has worked for me for about 3 years, and I've probably averaged about 2% broken bottles over that time (more when my friends use it!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T04:58:37.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6240" CreationDate="2012-02-07T06:02:32.467" Score="1" ViewCount="2414" Body="&lt;p&gt;My problem stems from the fact that I do not have a place to store a keg to carbonate at serving temperature. I would like to either condition in the bottle or force carbonate and then bottle (then chill as needed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options? I have read other questions here about chilled beer being flat after being force carbonated at room temperature; is that the same with naturally carbonated? Do I need to suck it up and buy another fridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2124" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T14:51:55.587" Title="Batch carbonate then bottle" Tags="|carbonation|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6233" CreationDate="2012-02-07T06:18:28.003" Score="6" ViewCount="3466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to brewing, my first batch is in secondary now. This is more of a curiosity question.  Is there a point when an aged beer becomes a health risk? If so what are the signs of spoilage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2124" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T10:05:22.460" Title="Is it ever unsafe to drink an aged beer?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5946" CreationDate="2012-02-07T06:23:30.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BDB4UG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bucket heater&lt;/a&gt; hooked up to a temperature controller. I also use a small aquarium pump to circulate the water when the heater is on. What I like about this is they are designed to brings buckets up to a boil, so they put out a lot of heat. This means that even if I wanted to do a larger water bath (i.e. several fermentors) or go higher for a saison it can handle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2128" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T06:23:30.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6212" CreationDate="2012-02-07T06:26:27.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend not trusting any of those thermometers. My Ranco is consistently off by 3 degrees at all temperatures, but once you know you can compensate. Also, the most accurate thermometer you have in your house is the medical thermometer in your bathroom. I would recommend initially calibrating against this through a water bath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend strapping the temperature controller to the side of you fermentor though I have never liked the thermowell approach since the air outside will be much much colder than the liquid inside (as mentioned in the previous answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2128" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T06:26:27.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6230" CreationDate="2012-02-07T07:22:56.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once the wort has fermented, no harmful pathogens (germs) can grow in beer - an old beer may degrade and become stale, but it's never harmful to drink. Historically, beer was brewed in part to avoid drinking contaminated water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many references on the net - just a quick search brings up this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Beer is certainly not hospitable for the growth of microorganisms. You&#xA;  know, we don’t have coli scares in beer. Pathogens will not grow in&#xA;  beer and the beer—of course during production it's boiled—beer&#xA;  contains hops which has got antimicrobial components, and so, you&#xA;  know, ales and beers over the years have been safer to drink rather&#xA;  than the water because of these reasons. You know, the early settlers&#xA;  in this country, you know, the story is told of those guys landing up&#xA;  from the rocks. Why? Because of victuals were much spent especially of&#xA;  beer, and, you know, the people, they kept enough beer for the sailors&#xA;  to go back on the Mayflower. The people who were settling there were&#xA;  drinking the local water, and they were getting sick because, you&#xA;  know, if they’ve [they'd] been drinking the ale, and they would've&#xA;  been much healthier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from, you know, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scientificamerican.com/podcast/episode.cfm?id=716465BC-E7F2-99DF-3EAB0C599937C0E6&quot;&gt;Beer Science, Scientific American&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-07T10:05:22.460" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T10:05:22.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6238" CreationDate="2012-02-07T12:27:25.590" Score="6" ViewCount="6241" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have my beer in the bottle (for about 8 days now).  Things are good -- yeast is precipitating out.  The instructions that came with the kit suggested to put 1 bottle's worth of beer in a PET plastic bottle instead of glass -- and when the PET bottle is firm to the touch (i.e. you can't really squeeze it anymore), the beer is carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic bottle has gotten to this point, but the kit said between &quot;2 weeks to 1 month, maybe even as long as 2 months&quot; of bottle conditioning time, depending on the ambient temperature and the mood of the yeast.  I've kept the box with the bottles consistently between 18~23C (64~73F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am really anxious to pop open one of the bottles (after refrigerating it of course!) and have a taste -- is there any reason why I shouldn't?  I understand that beer &quot;mellows&quot; a bit in the bottle even after carbonation is done -- is that correct?  Is the taste going to change significantly after the carbonation has finished?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2012" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T13:40:35.540" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T07:24:52.727" Title="Once a beer is carbonated in the bottle, are there any benefits to aging it?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|aging|bottle|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6234" CreationDate="2012-02-07T13:08:29.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always open one at 7 days, just to test carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as aging, yes, it can change  a beer significantly. I've had beers really come into their own after 2 weeks, and after 4 months. There is no hard-and-fast rule here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T13:08:29.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6290" CreationDate="2012-02-07T13:23:40.807" Score="9" ViewCount="5382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing with Wyeast's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=189&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;West Yorkshire Ale&lt;/a&gt; yeast, which has a documented alcohol tolerance of 9%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to push that boundary by brewing an 8.5% ale and wonder what to expect. Common sense says that this constitutes &lt;strong&gt;stressing the yeast&lt;/strong&gt;, so one would expect the normal things that go along with that, like under-attenuation, stuck fermentations, increased esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of argument, let's just assume that the beer will be well-pitched and well-aerated, to give the brave boys the best chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have personal experience with pushing yeast to their limit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer I ended up making was not near the alcohol tolerance, nor could it have been, but I still ended up learning something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer (1.064) fermented out to 1.020 with West Yorkshire yeast (6% ABV) and 1.013 with Nottingham Dry yeast (7% ABV). The Nottingham is much better-tasting and clearer to boot. I still love the Timothy Taylor yeast for its flavors, but it would seem that sticking to lower gravity beers is best with this yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2012-03-09T20:41:26.460" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T20:41:26.460" Title="What happens when you push a yeast near its alcohol tolerance?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6234" CreationDate="2012-02-07T13:43:16.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreed with above poster. I made an American Amber ale with 4 whole vanilla beans added in secondary and bottled it. I tried one 2 weeks after bottling and their was a bitter taste I didnt expect and the vanila after taste was so pronounced as to make a negative impression. I thought I had wasted 5 gallons of beer. I waited another week and tried again, and the tastes had mellowed. After a fouth week, it is one of the smoothest, most drinkable beers I've ever tasted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1957" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T13:43:16.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6234" CreationDate="2012-02-07T13:44:04.747" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can pop one open now, and it's a good learning experience to keep drinking your beer regularly so that you can see how it develops. I know, tough life! And you'll probably find like I do that the beer is at it's peak when there's one or two bottles left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 days may not be enough time for all the CO2 in the headspace to dissolve back into the beer, so you might hear a loud hiss but not have much carbonation. After another week, the beer will be better carbonated. But don't let that stop you from having a taste now. Waiting for beer to be ready is one of the hardest parts of being a brewer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how long to age the general rule is higher OG = more ageing required. Apart from wheats, which tend to age quickly (usually best at 3-5 weeks depending upon gravity) most 1.036-1.048 beers will be at their best around 4-6 weeks or more. Higher OG beers require  more time still, e.g. a typical 1.060 beer is best left for a couple of months before thinking about drinking it regularly. But still, open a bottle every month, to see how it's developing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-07T13:57:00.083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T13:57:00.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6236" CreationDate="2012-02-07T13:51:43.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not done this with beer, but it's fairly common when producing mead to choose a yeast with an ABV tolerance under what you would get if all the sugars fermented out - the excess sugar remains unfermented leaving some sweetness behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T13:51:43.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6229" CreationDate="2012-02-07T14:42:27.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to condition in the bottle, you only need enough room in your fridge for the beer you want to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Natural carbonation/bottle conditioning happens at room temperature (around 70F).  You add a sugar solution to the beer at bottling time, cap the bottles, and leave them at room temp for 3 weeks or so.  The yeast nom noms on the sugar, and creates CO2 to carb your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as you note, CO2 more readily dissolves into cold liquids.  So much of that CO2 is in the headspace, now under pressure.  This is why you chill the beer overnight before tasting: it allows the CO2 in the headspace to dissolve back into the beer.  If you just throw it into the fridge for an hour, the beer will be cold, but the CO2 won't have had time to dissolve into solution.  That's when you get a ton of head and flat beer underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for flat force carbonated beer, the mechanics are the same.  When I force carb, I chill the beer to 38F, then apply 12PSI for 1-2 weeks.  According to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;force carbonation chart like this one&lt;/a&gt;, that gets me to around 2.6 volumes of CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get that same 2.6 volumes of CO2 at room temp, you're off the charts for PSI.  At 65F, you'd need to keep 30PSI on the beer for the same amount of time.  So for most folks, it really isn't feasible to force carb at room temp.  Or really, it's just a lot more convenient to force carb in the fridge, since you can use a lower CO2 pressure, which your regulator is probably already set to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-02-07T14:51:55.587" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T14:51:55.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6236" CreationDate="2012-02-07T16:24:01.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The alcohol tolerance figures are very approximate and depend on yeast health, pitching rate, etc.  In general, a beer yeast will easily ferment 10% ABV, regardless of the listed tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T16:24:01.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6244" CreationDate="2012-02-07T16:49:50.260" Score="4" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is often said that, when re-pitching yeast, you should generally go from low- to high-gravity, and dark to light beers.  When I repitch, I &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4248/using-trub-directly-vs-yeast-rinsing&quot;&gt;use trub directly&lt;/a&gt;.  I understand why using a yeast from a high-gravity fermentation is ill-advised, since the yeast has been stressed, but why go light to dark?  Is this just a matter of color?  If so, how much darkening would you expect to get when brewing, say, an APA after a stout?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T18:27:50.177" Title="Why re-pitch light to dark?" Tags="|yeast|repitch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2941" CreationDate="2012-02-07T17:21:07.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find viynl labels here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beerclings.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerClings.com&lt;/a&gt;.  They are reusable and work very well.  Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2137" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T17:21:07.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6242" CreationDate="2012-02-07T17:44:45.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no reason...that's an old, disproven myth.  I've gone from dark to light many times without any problems.  The theory is that as you mention you'd carry over color.  There's so little color carried over that it's unnoticeable.  For example, I've pitched yeast from a dunkel into a pils and not had it darken the pils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T17:44:45.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6242" CreationDate="2012-02-07T17:52:33.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;it's about transferrence of color and to some extent flavor. Even though the slurry is heavily diluted, by 20 times or more, you wouldn't want coffee or caramel notes transferring from your dunkelweizen into your hefeweizen. I depends on the beers, and how much of the previous cake you're reusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With brewing on top of the yeast cake, there definitely is some carry over. To avoid it, collect some slurry, let it settle and pour off the beer on top before pitching. The amount of transferrence is then much less, and can be considered a non issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to figure out why it's a non issue, consider that you're pitching a dense slurry, say 250ml / 10oz. Of that, let's say half is still beer and the rest is trub/yeast. That's 5oz of beer from the previous batch being repitched into 5 gallons, which is a dilution ratio of about 120 fold. With a very dark stout of 50L that would give you about 0.4L color difference. For more moderate beers, the color change and flavor transferrence is tiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-07T18:27:50.177" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T18:27:50.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6248" CreationDate="2012-02-07T21:38:52.730" Score="3" ViewCount="5407" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to put 3.5 gallons of 1.060 wort into a carboy, and use 0.5 gallons of water to top off to 4 gallons:&#xA;- What could I project that gravity would be?&#xA;- Anyone have a good formula, even if just a rough calc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I'm stuck using my 20 qt pot, and I think the most liquid i could fit without boilover would be 4-4.25 gallons.  I typially have around a .75 gallon/hour boil off...so ending around 3.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T21:53:31.543" Title="Formula for make up water / gravity change" Tags="|original-gravity|recipe-scaling|partial-boil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6246" CreationDate="2012-02-07T21:49:43.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can work it out by using gravity points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final gravity is your current gravity (in points) x original volume / new volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gravity points is the gravity, but without the leading 1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, .060 (original gravity) x 3.5 (original volume) / 4 (new volume) = .0525, or a specific gravity of 1.0525. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your final gravity after topping up to 4 gallons would be 1.053 (rounding up.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T21:49:43.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6246" CreationDate="2012-02-07T21:50:44.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of &lt;a href=&quot;http://jimsbeerkit.co.uk/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online dilution calculators&lt;/a&gt;, but if you want a formula, the below was taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.promash.com/TipsNTricks/CommonTasks/MechOfNoSparge_Article.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mechanics of No Sparge Brewing&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Dilution Formula (reference Ray Daniels, Designing Great Beers)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most of the dilution/gravity calculations found in this write up are based on a simple formula that states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Beg Volume * Beg Gravity=End Volume * End Gravity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(The Gravity numbers are Gravity Points, i.e. 1.060 OG=60 gravity pts,&#xA;  1.045=45 gravity pts.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;By algebraically re-arranging this formula, we can find any element in&#xA;  the formula, as in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Beg Volume=End Volume * End Gravity / Beg Gravity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Beg Gravity=End Volume * End Gravity / Beg Volume&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;End Gravity=Beg Volume * Beg Gravity / End Volume&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;End Volume=Beg Volume * Beg Gravity / End Gravity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in your case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;End Gravity = 3.5 * 60 / 4 = 52.5&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So about 1.053, which agrees with Beersmith's calculator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T21:50:44.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6246" CreationDate="2012-02-07T21:53:31.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The calculation is pretty simple, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Original Point of Gravity) * (boil volume / total volume) = (new points of gravity)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60 * (3.5/4) = 52.5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Predicted SG after dilution, therefore is 1.0525 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also be aware that with partial boils, your hop utilization will be lower than if you were boiling all the wort. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Palmer's How to Brew&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T21:53:31.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6252" CreationDate="2012-02-08T05:04:17.470" Score="2" ViewCount="533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the habit of freezing extra wort and using it for yeast starters. After I've racked the clean, cold wort from the kettle into the primary fermenter, I'm left with trub, hops, and wort in the bottom of the kettle. I filter this mess through cheese cloth, pour into 500ml PET bottles, and place in the chest freezer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the time comes to bulk up a smack-pack of yeast, I take a few bottles from the freezer, thaw them, boil and then cool the wort. I add some O2, and then the yeast. A few day's later, I've got enough yeast to pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not really more convenient than using DME, nor does it save any significant cash, but I would feel bad throwing away any of that wort I just spent four or five hours producing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this evening I took some bottles from the freezer to build a starter for a lager yeast. Two of the four bottles had a  very distinct black currant aroma to them when opened. If you know what Ribena or Creme de Cassis smells like, then you've imagined it perfectly. And I'm not talking about a subtle hint of black currant. It was very pronounced. The two affected bottles were dark wort, but I couldn't speak to their exact makeup. One was labeled 1.052 SG, the other 1.075.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the wort was not completely frozen. Most of the contents were solid ice, but on the very top there was maybe 5 ml of thick, dark syrup. The syrup tasted sweet, malty and bitter, and had the very distinct aroma of black currant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can imagine some scenario where syrup would form from the frozen wort, something similar to freeze distillation, but for the life of me, I can't think what sort of chemistry would make hopped malt smell like black currants. I'm curious if anyone has an idea how this could happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went ahead and used the malt for my starter. I plan on cold-crashing and pitching just the slurry, so I don't expect the black currant flavour to affect the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T14:12:50.663" Title="Why does my frozen wort smell like black currants?" Tags="|malt|aroma|starter|frozen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6234" CreationDate="2012-02-08T07:28:44.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got 5 or 6 gallons of this stuff!  Go ahead and try one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I almost always try one after 2 or 3 days.  It's often quite enjoyable in the first week.  Once I drank about 12 bottles in the first week -- and enjoyed every one of them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T07:28:44.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6250" CreationDate="2012-02-08T14:34:28.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could the the hops - some hops e.g. bramling cross have a clear blackcurrant aroma, or the use of a dark crystal, which can bring several different aromas, such as toasted biscuit, prunes, raisin and blackcurrant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When sugar solutions are frozen to make &lt;a href=&quot;http://food.oregonstate.edu/learn/crys.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;frozen deserts&lt;/a&gt;, crystals can spontaneously form. This could have happened in the wort, pulling out also flavour and aroma compounds at the same time, and concentrating them into the sludge that you found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in case you're interested, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Composition+of+blackcurrant+aroma+isolated+from+leaves,+buds,+and...-a0198809297&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;composition of blackcurrant aroma&lt;/a&gt; lists the 60+ compounds that make up blackcurrant aroma. If some of these compounds are still liquid at your freezer temperature, then fractional distillation could have occurred with these compounds, separating them from the rest of the frozen wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-09T14:12:50.663" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T14:12:50.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6254" CreationDate="2012-02-08T14:35:37.397" Score="8" ViewCount="3776" Body="&lt;p&gt;When transferring from the mash tun to the brew pot, I had set the mash tun about 3 feet above the brew pot and let the wort flow out and fall to the pot. This caused a large amount of bubbles that stayed around until the wort started to boil. It does not seem like it would effect the beer in any way, but the more I thought about it the more I wondered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does aerating the wort from transferring from the mash tun to the Boil pot effect the beer in any way?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-05-12T14:17:58.430" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T12:19:20.787" Title="Aerating When Moving from Mash tun to Boil Pot" Tags="|aeration|hot-side-aeration|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6253" CreationDate="2012-02-08T15:05:56.867" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll call forth the legendary dormant beast of HSA! That's hot-side aeration - introducing oxygen into the wort which could cause some compounds to oxidize. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least, that's the myth. HSA is a bit like santa claus, and autolysis, which although real, rarely affects homebrewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you splashed the entire wort like this then there's a good chance the beer would oxidize quicker. But if it's just from the first runnings into the BK, then you don't need to worry. Using a hose to quietly transfer wort between the different vessels is considered good practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just some conjecture now - I don't have any hard facts to back this up, but perhaps the reason that HSA is not common for homebrewers is that we boil the wort quickly after collecting it - usually within an hour, often much less. Once the wort is boiling, any dissolved oxygen is driven off. With commercial breweries, I believe it takes much longer for the brew to reach a boil, and so there is more time for the dissolved oxygen to bind and oxidize. Just a guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T15:05:56.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6288" CreationDate="2012-02-08T17:47:07.400" Score="3" ViewCount="4128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to start brewing, but I also like to keep my spending in check. Are there any methods or ways to craft a quality brew while not breaking the bank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are some hops cheaper than others? Cheaper beer styles? I would like to start in the price range of $100-200 dollars, but have no idea as to what the most efficient way of spending this is when it comes to brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2140" LastActivityDate="2013-08-24T22:28:49.257" Title="The cheapest way to start brewing" Tags="|beer|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-11T17:18:24.220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6255" CreationDate="2012-02-08T18:20:08.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the groupon is still active, but Midwest Brewing supplies had a very good deal on a starter equipment set.  It also included a free beer ingredient kit.  The brewing kit was in the range of $80.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**&lt;em&gt;edit it is still active.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.groupon.com/deals/midwest-hydroponic-minneapolis-2?c=all&amp;amp;p=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.groupon.com/deals/midwest-hydroponic-minneapolis-2?c=all&amp;amp;p=3&lt;/a&gt; *&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i understand it correctly, you also recieve a good discount on a 2nd ingredient kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T18:20:08.687" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-11T17:18:24.220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6253" CreationDate="2012-02-08T18:51:52.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with what mdma said about HSA, but I'd also like to address the foaming aspect.  Foam in beer is formed by a matrix of proteins and carbohydrates.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2011/09/28/head-retention-with-the-pope-of-foam-beersmith-podcast-23/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;It's been said&lt;/a&gt; that these proteins only have the ability to form foam once.  If you create too much foam in your wort, you could affect the head on your finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T18:51:52.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6255" CreationDate="2012-02-08T19:27:55.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have stated, you can get your equiptment for well under $200. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your questions about beer styles, cost of ingredients, etc:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops aren't all that pricey, you can get enough for a 5 gallon batch for under $5. Malt Extract recipes don't require extra equipment and are therefore cheaper. In Denver you can get an extract kit for $30. Not sure if that helps or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lager styles require refrigeration during fermentation, so unless you have a spare fridge or a cellar, that is a cost-limiting factor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also mentioned bottles. Start asking your friends to save their (non twist-off) &#xA;bottles. I recently started homebrewing and the cost of new bottles shocked me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2101" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T19:27:55.893" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-11T17:18:24.220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6834" CreationDate="2012-02-08T19:58:13.393" Score="2" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built an inline heating element assembly using some 1&quot; copper pipe, a 1&quot; threaded female fitting and some 1/2&quot; fittings.  The idea is, wort comes in from the bottom 1/2&quot; fitting, flows over the element, and exits the top fitting.  In theory, this should work swimmingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's about 16&quot; long, however, and it will be hot.  I'd like to fabricate some sort of housing for it and the panel-mount thermostat controller, something that can handle the heat with no issue, and provide a solid base for this thing to be set upright next to my mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else built something like this?  What did you use?  How well does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T15:00:33.413" Title="Suggestions for inline heating unit housing for wort circulator?" Tags="|beer|mash|wort|rims|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-08T20:05:16.613" Score="3" ViewCount="1141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of talk about &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/aging&quot;&gt;aging&lt;/a&gt; with several different options and techniques.  I am a bit confused about what the correct method is.  I am about to make a Russian Imperial Stout and I know it needs to be aged for several months before it's ready to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is an appropriate amount of time to leave in the primary/secondary fermenter before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does aging start in the secondary fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does aging only happen in the bottle after carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for these questions is that making an RIS is expensive both cost (compared to lower OG beers) and time in aging.  I want to make sure I am giving the beer the best opportunity to become a delicious RIS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T13:40:37.263" Title="Appropriate aging technique for high OG beers" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|aging|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6255" CreationDate="2012-02-08T20:25:55.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local homebrew shop sold me a complete starter kit for about $65 plus tax. I ordered a brew kettle from Northern Brewer for $38 and a few extract kits ($35-50/each). That's pretty close to your range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to at least visit your local shop (if you have one) and chat with the owner. It's a good way to get some valuable advice and maybe plug into the local homebrew scene, clubs, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T20:25:55.237" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-11T17:18:24.220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6265" CreationDate="2012-02-09T00:05:22.693" Score="9" ViewCount="1186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess most people brew from kits, or from the many available recipes on the net. But for those few recipe formulators, how do you go about building a recipe? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, given the inexactness of brewing, what do you do when the end result isn't quite what you in mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-02-09T18:52:25.943" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T01:39:12.970" Title="How do you make your own recipe?" Tags="|hops|ingredients|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-09T13:15:20.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6264" CreationDate="2012-02-09T02:21:25.070" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started creating my own recipes by picking a beer that I liked and then trying to brew something close to the commercial example. This is not a bad way to start, since you have a concrete goal that you are trying to achieve. And it can be very educational, since it will teach you a lot about the ingredients that commercial brewers use and in what proportions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, you have to spend some time researching. There are good books that are focused on single styles. For example, if you really want to brew a Porter then read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewerspublications.com/books/porter/&quot;&gt;the Porter book&lt;/a&gt;. That will help you narrow down your options for the recipe you're trying to create.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's no book focused on the style you're interested in, then there's always &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381500&quot;&gt;Designing Great Beers&lt;/a&gt;. It covers several styles very well, and gets into the process of recipe creation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Research can also include test batches or small-scale experiments. For one beer I made 1-gallon batches using 5 different base malts, just to see what each one tasted like. In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/connect/2011/12/a-discussion-with-kristen-england/&quot;&gt;this interview&lt;/a&gt;, former BJCP Education Director Kristen England suggests using 2-liter french press coffee makers to test out specialty grains so that you can find out exactly what they taste like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you've researched, dive in and brew a batch. Don't expect it to be perfect. Take thorough notes throughout the process. Taste it, compare the taste you get to the taste you envisioned and then decide what you're going to change next time. Review your brewing notes. Are there processes that you could do differently in order to get the flavors you want? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm working on a recipe then I will share the beer with a group of friends and then get feedback from them. This helps if your friends are willing to give you honest tasting notes. If not, then the feedback will be useless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incorporate your changes into a new recipe and brew again. Repeat as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T02:21:25.070" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-09T13:15:20.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-09T02:25:07.233" Score="1" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have plenty of land that is suitable for growing hops; protected from wind, well drained, and receives lots of full sun. I'm not sure what variety would do well in western North Carolina and is worthwhile to grow. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1691" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T16:36:44.677" Title="What variety of hops grows well in the south eastern US?" Tags="|hops|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2012-02-09T13:00:39.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Florida&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cigar City labels are pretty much impossible to get off with the heavy laminated labels.  Kinda sucks cause the beer is pretty good.  I've soaked them for like 2 weeks in OxyClean without anything permeating the label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2143" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T13:00:39.777" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-09T13:00:39.777" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6260" CreationDate="2012-02-09T13:40:37.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Primary&quot; fermentation for a big beer like that could be as long as 3-4 weeks. I certainly wouldn't touch it for 3 weeks myself, except to check the gravity once a week. After that, a secondary is up to you. I would personally secondary that beer for a few weeks before bottling, but I think you can skip that step, assuming your beer is fully fermented out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That last step (figuring out if fermentation is truly complete) can be a little tricky on big, thick beers like RIS's. One good approach is doing what's called a Fast Fermentation Test when you brew. Basically, pull off a quart or so of your final wort as you are chilling it, and massively over pitch a portion of your yeast into there. Treat this portion as you would a starter, meaning keep it room temp and shake it up a lot during fermentation. You are only trying to see just how far down your yeast will take your wort. Here's the process in more detail: &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fast_Ferment_Test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fast_Ferment_Test&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the whole point of the above explanation is just to say that when your fermentation is done, including a little time for the yeast to clean themselves up (prob around 3-4 weeks) you can bottle. Just make sure you are TOTALLY fermented out. &lt;strong&gt;Aging starts the minute your primary is done, and can be done in the secondary, or in the bottle.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And specifically for your RIS, regardless of whether you bottle after the primary, or secondary it for a few weeks, you shouldn't expect the flavor to mature for 2-4 months (give or take). I'd do around 3 weeks primary, around 4-5 weeks secondary, then around 2 months in the bottle before I'd start sampling bottles to see how the beer is turning out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T13:40:37.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6264" CreationDate="2012-02-09T14:01:30.457" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well the main way you learn how to make your own recipes is by picking ingredients out kind of at random at first, kind of like a kid in a kitchen. The problem with this is that your first couple of custom recipes are &lt;strong&gt;unlikely to be very good&lt;/strong&gt;. Here's my advice....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start off with &lt;strong&gt;proven recipes&lt;/strong&gt;. This means stuff out of 'Brewing Classic Styles' or recipes from beers that you have personally tasted and enjoy. Don't trust every random recipe you find online. That one guy online swearing that 3lbs of Black Patent makes his stout delicious is probably full of crap, or a chain-smoker who can't taste anything anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the recipe and modify &lt;strong&gt;one ingredient&lt;/strong&gt;. Just one. Seriously. Put down the Northern Brewer catalog! The only way you will figure out what flavors an ingredient is imparting is to account for them one-by-one. This takes a lot of time when you are starting out but its worth it. Some of my earliest batches were crappy because I thought I knew how to make a recipe, and it was pretty discouraging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like plain ales (Golden Ales, Blondes, etc) one of the best things you can do is to make a series of SMASH (Single malt, single hop) beers. This makes it MUUUCH easier to figure out what the &quot;bready&quot; qualities of a malt like Munich actually taste like in a beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Side rant: I find that ingredient flavor descriptions RARELY match what they supposedly taste like. Meaning, I know what Munich tastes like, and that its &lt;em&gt;described&lt;/em&gt; as &quot;bready&quot;, but it doesn't taste like &lt;strong&gt;actual bread&lt;/strong&gt; to me at all. Same with &quot;earthy&quot; Fuggles and &quot;chocolate&quot; malt. Don't get too hung up on these descriptions, and &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; think that just because you like the taste of cloves that you instantly love a beer with a &quot;clove&quot; description on the yeast. Its just not the same, and we're just using that word because its the closest we can get to describing the flavor in the beer. Furthermore, if you &lt;strong&gt;think&lt;/strong&gt; a beer is supposed to be a certain flavor because of an ingredient, you &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; trick yourself into tasting it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you start off with a complex recipe (again, given to you by a trusted source), you can still swap out ingredients one by one. It will just be a little harder to pick them out the more complex the overall recipe is. And some big-flavor beers (Stouts, Belgians) are bad ones to experiment with because the flavor of whatever minor ingredient you are using might just get completely hidden by the strong flavors from the rest of the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally though, don't be discouraged! Experiment away! Just do it in a smart manner (adjust for one ingredient at a time). Or, throw in 5 new ingredients, but don't expect to be able to truly figure out what each one is doing right away. Its all up to your personal style. One of my favorite beers to make and drink is a custom recipe that I created that doesn't have a direct commercial or stylistic equivalent. Its a Vienna-based lager with about 20% Munich, along with some dark crystal and some Carafa. Makes kind of a &quot;Vienna Schwarzbier Bock&quot; hybrid. I found it by taking an existing recipe (for a Negra Modelo clone) and adjusting the ingredients one by one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T14:01:30.457" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-09T14:01:30.457" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6264" CreationDate="2012-02-09T14:13:08.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gordon Strong calls extract brewing &quot;the equivalent of calling heating up a tv dinner 'cooking'&quot;.  Strong words, and I've made some really good extract brews, but also some not-so-good ones.  Kits are great, and I still remember the way my first kit tasted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, moving to all-grain allows you to do what the above-poster is referencing.  Really learning (and putting into practice) the building blocks of good beer, how to manipulate the ingredients through processes and temperatures will result in what Strong calls 'effortless excellence' (think Sinatra or a professional golfer).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have about 45 batches under my belt (literally), and still consider myself a 'beginner' when it comes to recipe design.  One practice that is really fun to me as a homebrewing is split batches, as the above-poster stated.  The exact same grains mashed at the exact same temperature with different hops.  Or different yeast.  Or, even more stunning, EVERYTHING the same with different fermentation temps.  I started on this process by making 5 single-hop IPA's ala Mikkeller/BrewDog.  Exact same grain bill (and a simple one), clean yeast, one hop, same fermentation temps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend &quot;Radical Brewing&quot; by Mosher.  He gives recipe formulation beginners (and homebrew beginners) some very simple building blocks to make your own recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-02-09T14:18:41.350" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T14:18:41.350" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-09T14:13:08.550" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6266" CreationDate="2012-02-09T16:36:44.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say you'll have a hard time with any variety you decide to grow there.  Hops grow best around the 45th parallel and the farther away from that you are, the more problems you'll have.  That said, pick a hardy American variety like Cascade for best results and avoid British or continental varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T16:36:44.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6273" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6274" CreationDate="2012-02-09T19:16:46.153" Score="2" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying my hand at making an apricot wheat beer (my first fruit beer). The recipe I'm using instructs me to add apricot puree after the wort has fermented for approximately 3 days and recommended that I use the Oregon brand of apricot puree. I've seen cans of Oregon fruit in stores all over my town so I didn't think it'd be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I'm nearing the time to add the apricot I am realizing that it seems as if no stores stock the Oregon brand of apricot puree. About the only thing I can find is Del Monte apricot halves in heavy syrup. I'm a bit wary of trying to find fresh apricots too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that the Oregon brand is recommended because it's aseptic and makes worries about contamination far less. However, since I can't find this can I safely use something like the Del Monte brand? If I do use it I'm assuming I should drain off as much of the heavy syrup as possible to avoid adding a bunch of corn syrup to my beer. Are there any other options or concerns I should be aware of? Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2145" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T18:54:52.273" Title="Fruit Beer—Hard Time Finding the Correct Fruit" Tags="|beer|fruit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6273" CreationDate="2012-02-09T19:28:49.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I would use fresh apricots, puree them in a food processor/blender, freeze to kill (most) microorganisms, thaw and rack the beer on top of the puree.  If you wanted to go the other way, you could boil (then cool) the homemade puree, though you may carmelize some sugars.  I agree with your thinking on the corn syrup or whatever else Del Monte uses to pack their processed apricot substitutes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T19:28:49.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-10T00:30:21.427" Score="3" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've moved into all-grain brewing to make a mash. I've adapted a rye beer recipe, leaving out the malt extract and just using malted and rolled (flaked) rye, rice hulls. Did all the rests and used my priming bucket with a grease strainer as the false bottom for a tun. Sparged by putting the grains in a brew bag and pouring 1870F water over the grains and collected wort into carboy. The collected mash has no grains but is very cloudy, even though I followed procedures to get the high temp and cold trub separated (skimmed the high and transferred down to the cold when racking). Tried the egg white method to clarify, not much happening. Since it is too late to use irish moss, any suggestions for post-fermentation clarification?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T14:47:59.443" Title="All-grain Rye beer clarifying suggestions needed" Tags="|all-grain|clarity|clarification|rye|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6275" CreationDate="2012-02-10T01:25:28.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I imagine most of the cloudiness is possibly from flour or tannins. The flour usually falls out during the boil, but will fall out in the fermentor also. Tannins form tannin-protein complexes which cause a permanent haze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the haze is caused by flour particles, then you can just leave the beer - flour particles are large and they will fall out in a few days. If the beer doesn't clear naturally after a week, then it's probably a permanent haze from the tannins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this, you can use either gelatin or isinglass. Both contain collagen, which is positively charged. Tannins are also positively charged, but attract proteins, which are negatively charged. The collagen binds to the negative protein, and drags the tannin-protein haze out of the beer. It works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not already doing it, when mashing, you can clear the wort of flour by vorlaufing the runoff - draining the wort and quietly adding it back to the mash and repeating until the mash runs fairly clear. The grain bed acts as a filter and filters out most of the flour. If you didn't do this, then the mash can be cloudy, and this can make it's way into the fermenter. At the end of boiling, if you leave the kettle for 20 mins, most of the flour (usually covered in lots of protein break) will also fall out and not make it into the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/23-clarity/948-just-fine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Just Fine&lt;/a&gt;, BYO&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-10T14:47:59.443" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T14:47:59.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6253" CreationDate="2012-02-10T02:24:46.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest listening to this particular episode of Brew Strong about Hot Side Aeration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It features Dr. Charles Bamforth, one of the foremost brewing scientists who is willing to talk to us homebrewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He essentially dispels the majority of myths about HSA saying that it is far more important to avoid Cold Side Aeration. (Edit: Dr. Bamforth does not dispel the myth of HSA, and I don't know why the myth that he did dispel it ever arose.  What he said, if you can hear him above Mr. Malty's buffoonery, is that HSA is real, but commercial brewers have more significant factors that should be dealt with first, like storage temperatures for finished beer.  This is major issue for commercial breweries trucking their beer across country, but almost non-existent for homebrewers, especially those who keg.  This would mean that HSA is an even more critical factor for many/most homebrewers.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, you probably don't need to worry about Hot Side Aeration much at all, at least not until after the boil is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/475&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/475&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastEditorUserId="2682" LastEditDate="2012-09-14T12:19:20.787" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T12:19:20.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-10T04:08:28.477" Score="1" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I kegged my APA tonight and all seemed fine.  I set the psi to 15, burped the keg a few times and put the keg in my fridge.  An hour later I checked on it and the psi was at 0, the co2 tank was covered in frost, there is seemingly no pressure coming from the co2 tank and no excess air in the keg (when I burp it nothing happens).  The temperature in my fridge is 33 f, a little on the cold side I know but it shouldn't matter right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my tank filled up a couple of weeks ago and haven't touched it since.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did the temperature in my fridge do something (make me lose all my co2 or break some of my equipment)?&#xA;Should I Assume that my tank didn't have as much co2 as I thought it had? It's 20oz so I would have thought it would be enough for a few keggings assuming it was full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions as to what is going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1317" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T05:59:02.047" Title="No psi shortly after kegging" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6278" CreationDate="2012-02-10T05:59:02.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you put the co2 in the fridge with the keg? Either way the c02 in your cylinder is in a liquid state (only because it's under pressure) naturally c02 turns to a gaseous state at -78c so when you are carbonating you release a fair amount of this cold liquid through the valves and regulator which starts building up &quot;frost&quot; ( lets keep it simple) when it builds up it becomes more constricted and eventually plugs completely, this happens to me with my propane camping stove sometimes as well. my advice would be try a slower force carb but 15 psi isnt fast, the fridge doesn't help because its cold too. I know its expensive but save up for a standard 5lb tank, it's worth it! there is also a possibility you have a large leak ( maybe you twisted something on accident) warm it up and see if there is anything left. good luck keep us posted&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T05:59:02.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4221" CreationDate="2012-02-10T08:59:31.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do 5-6 gallon full boils and chill in my bathtub without ice. My bathtub is as deeper than my brew pot so I fill to just around the wort level. Water temperature is 8-10C. I change the water 2-3 times and am able to get the wort down to pitching temps in 30-40 min.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T08:59:31.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6282" CreationDate="2012-02-10T15:07:33.120" Score="2" ViewCount="486" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current setup is an 8-gallon aluminum kettle with a weldless valve and Blichmann Brewmometer (which, even when 'shielded' from flame, does not work, not happy with that investment).  This serves as MLT and brew kettle.  I live in a tiny rowhouse with no yard so I brew in my kitchen, but have a decent range and can get a 6.5 gallon volume up to boil in about 20-30 minutes with 3 burners going.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have been enjoying quite a bit is mashing to a high gravity, say for example, 1.090, collecting 8 ish gallons between lauter and 1-2 sparges, splitting into two buckets, diluting to a 'sessionable' gravity (say 1.055-60), then doing two separate 6-6.5 gallon boils with different hop additions and/or different yeast/fermentations.  In some cases, I will do a 30 minute specialty steep on one of the two batches (for example, to make a twin IPA and black IPA).  Part of the motivation for this process is to isolate certain ingredients/procedures and taste side-by-side, and part of it is to maximize my 'time-spent-brewing : beer made' ratio.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are for AG and extract brewers regarding dilution.  I have made a few extract batches recently, and seem to (may be in my head) notice a lack of body to my beers. I notice something similar with my split-batch obsession, though typically, friends/family/fellow brewers dig them.  Also, I am hitting my desired concentration of sugars after diluting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have listened to both sides of the argument of hop utilization (ie different amounts extracted with concentrated boils), and don't really have an opinion, but does anyone see any glaring issues with brewing this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-02-10T15:47:54.257" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T15:47:54.257" Title="Splitting Batches / Dilution" Tags="|all-grain|small-space|hop-utilization|partigyle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2012-02-10T15:26:18.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your process seems fine - I do split batches for the same reason, and not had the problem with body. Do you have measured OG/FG figures? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the gravity of the mash increases, extraction efficiency typically decreases so you may not get out expected efficiency if you base ts on what you normally get when doing a full mash and undiluted boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a thought, but perhaps try drinking other beers (a buddy's or commercial) since sometimes you can get very used to your own beer and your sense of high/low can become a little off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, at one point I felt my beers had too much body and sweetness, so over time I started aiming for increased fermentability by adjusting recipes and reducing mash temps. The beers taste fine, but when I compare to other examples, e.g. Carlsberg/Hansa (sadly, all I can get on tap around here) I now find that the commercial examples taste sweet, which I'd never noticed before. Drinking a variety of beer can help keep your tastebuds in check! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-10T15:35:04.970" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T15:35:04.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6285" CreationDate="2012-02-10T16:07:34.800" Score="7" ViewCount="1211" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all know &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-3.html&quot;&gt;oxidation is bad&lt;/a&gt;, and cooling hot wort is particularly susceptible to this off-flavor-producing problem. the question is; does oxidation matter for starters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a stirplate to aerate the starter during fermentation - pretty common really. This last batch I put the starter on the stirplate while cooling, which decreased the cooling time, but certainly oxidized the starter wort. I pour off most of the starter beer, leaving just enough to swirl and break up the yeast for pitching. Will off flavors be likely to make it to my main batch, or should I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.comcast.net/~wnevits/wizards/yeast_washing_rev_5.pdf&quot;&gt;washed the yeast&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T03:10:40.820" Title="Is oxidation of yeast starters a concern?" Tags="|yeast|starter|oxidation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6283" CreationDate="2012-02-10T16:38:14.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a stir plate does oxidize starer wort very much, but as long as you decant most of the starter wort, there isn't enough left to have much, if any, flavor impact on your beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T16:38:14.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6283" CreationDate="2012-02-10T16:38:45.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, yes it does oxidize, but it's not usually a problem for your beer, since it's heavily diluted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With no airlock (to allow gas transfer) and constant stirring, oxidization is inevitable once the yeast have come out of the lag phase and start fermenting. During the lag phase, most of the oxygen is taken up by the yeast as part of propagation, but after then, the yeast prefer to produce energy anerobically and they start to ferment the wort.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fermentation_%28biochemistry%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fermentation&lt;/a&gt; (Wikipedia) says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;even in the presence of abundant oxygen, yeast cells&#xA;  greatly prefer fermentation to oxidative phosphorylation, as long as&#xA;  sugars are readily available for consumption (a phenomenon known as&#xA;  the Crabtree effect)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, once the fermentation starts, there's little additional oxygen takeup by the yeast so long as there are sugars around. The constant agitation will speed up the oxidization of the wort, and so some oxidization will have occurred before the yeast have consumed all the sugars and switch back to aerobic energy production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, is the oxidization a problem for the final beer? I'd guess not. If you pour off the starter wort (as is good practice), then what is left in the slurry is probably diluted about 50-100 times when pitched. With that amount of dilution, off flavours are going to be much less pronounced, but of course it depends upon how oxidized it is and how much flavour will be in the final beer. If you wanted to play it safe, you could make up a dilution the starter wort to 1/50 strength and see how it tastes, but I'm guessing washing will not be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-02-11T03:10:40.820" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T03:10:40.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6295" CreationDate="2012-02-11T01:51:39.637" Score="4" ViewCount="386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing two beers back to back so I can reuse some White Labs California Ale (WLP001). One is a basic &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/1142732/american-pale-ale-recipes/apa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;APA 1.058 OG&lt;/a&gt; and the Other is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/1147060/scottish-export-80---recipes/scotish-export-80&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scottish Export/80 1.051 OG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason I should brew one before the other as far as the yeast health goes? Will the color of the scottish ale yeast cake affect the pale ale? Should I wash the yeast or just repitch onto the previous batch's yeast cake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-02-12T16:59:20.917" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T16:59:20.917" Title="Repitching yeast on back to back brews, which one first?" Tags="|beer|ale|reusing-yeast|repitch|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6286" CreationDate="2012-02-11T01:56:55.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is generally recommended to brew low-gravity beers before higher-gravity ones when re-pitching yeast.  It is often said that you should also pitch light before dark beers.  I &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6242/why-re-pitch-light-to-dark&quot;&gt;asked a question about this recently&lt;/a&gt;.  Color transfer isn't usually a problem, but you should pitch low- to high-gravity.  With this in mind, I would brew the Scottish Export first, then the APA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T01:56:55.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6255" CreationDate="2012-02-11T03:36:42.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in about 1971,I found a recipe for homebrew in an alternative newspaper called the San Jose (CA) Redeye. Without a doubt, this kit (and kaboodle)was cheap. A 10 gallon plastic waste basket was the primary fermenter. SaranWrap was the &quot;lid&quot;. The most expensive component was a hydrogemeter, which may not have been needed, but added a bit of weird science to the whole project. Blue Ribbon Malt Syrup was used for the wort, available only at Lucky Supermarkets in San Jose. Boil the wort, which was Santa Clara County tapwater,let it cool, pour it into the plastic waste basket, throw in some regular old Fleischman's bread-making yeast, add a bag (I forget weather it was 3 pounds or 5 pounds) of C&amp;amp;H pure cane sugar (from Hawaii),saving a couple of cups for &quot;bottlin' sugar&quot; to create carbonation, let it sit for a couple of days covered with SaranWrap, check the alcohol content (specific gravity) with the hydrogemeter every day or two. When it reached a certain point (which point I can't remember...) it was time to bottle it. We used old 7-Up and Squirt quart-bottles that we bought a the local fleamarket. Rule of thumb: the more sugar used, the greater the alcohol content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when specific gravity was appropriately attained, pour in the extra couple of cups of &quot;bottlin' sugar&quot;, let it set for a bit, then siphon the brew (sure smelled good at that point) out of the plastic waste basket using some clear plastic &quot;aquarium&quot; tubing, into your 7-Up-Squirt quarts, and cap'em. (the capper was about 5 bucks back then, and we considered it an investment in the future), we got new caps somewhere...cork lined. We put the stuff in my parents' basement and let it sit for at least two weeks, but could hardly wait to sample the stuff, which we did after about a week-and-a-half. All the yeast sediment clung to bottom of the bottle, but that was de rigueur for the process and you had to carefull pour it...no filtration. It was all right, completely unlike what we were used to in commercial beers like Bud, Coors, et al. The carbonation was awesome, leading to much flatulence and eructation, but I remember sitting on a lawn chair watching the sunset out over the Los Gatos hills and feeling quite content. The recipe's yield was something like 8 gallons. Later on I tried fancier approaches and got a better, albeit more-expensive-to-make beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The craft brewing industry was still in the future, there were no fancy homebrewing shops, although I believe Red Hook, out of Ballard, WA was just starting up, and even though I graduated from Chico State in 1976, Sierra Nevada Brewery was still non-existent...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;T.B. Beaudeau&#xA;San Diego Reader&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T03:36:42.940" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-11T17:18:24.220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6407" CreationDate="2012-02-11T15:06:17.600" Score="4" ViewCount="1706" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year, I bought lots of 6 gallon buckets for storing grain. They were from morebeer, and look like this &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZFWbW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;6 gallon bucket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The buckets do the job, but the lids are tricky to get on and off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of buying &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bayteccontainers.com/gamma-seal-lids.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gamma seal lids&lt;/a&gt; which look like they are easier to remove. As you can see in the photo, the morebeer buckets have some 'rings' near the top, I'm wondering if these interfere with the gamma seal adapter that goes on the bucket. Anyone successfully used a gamma seal lid with these buckets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;while looking for a photo and link to gamma seals, I found this picture. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m0uo8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;gamma seal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spacings of the rings on the bucket look very similar to the morebeer buckets. Since I plan to be buying 20 of these and shipping to Europe, I don't trust just eyeballing this, so I hope someone can confirm that they work on the B3 buckets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-11T20:00:26.187" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T00:46:45.370" Title="gamma seal lids and B3 buckets" Tags="|bucket|airtight|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6236" CreationDate="2012-02-11T20:10:48.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you aerate well and pitch a large starter, you can go beyond the listed alcohol tolerance. The same goes for going below the listed minimum temperature on ale yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also try to control fermentation temperature to ensure it doesn't drop during fermentation. If you don't have good temperature control, start the temperature low and it will rise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start the temperature high it could rise above desirable temperature levels AND drop in temperature as fermentation slows if it's above ambient temperature, the latter of which will likely result in incomplete fermentation and both could result in off-flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T20:10:48.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6289" CreationDate="2012-02-11T20:16:01.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your cheapest option is probably to just get a 5 gallon paint bucket lid opener from a hardware store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000KKPBFE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Linzer-5425-Plastic-5-Gallon-Opener/dp/B000KKPBFE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T20:16:01.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6293" CreationDate="2012-02-11T21:11:54.103" Score="0" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made 2 batches of mead that are now coming to maturity. One at 11 percent, aged for 18 months and one at 18 percent, aged for 3 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice that both are very clear, beautiful bouquet and clean tasting, but with a bitter aftertaste. When I pour out the last dregs of the bottle into the glass, there is a little turbidity, but also a complete flavor change - there's sweetness added too that offsets the bitterness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't expecting sweetness to somehow stratify in the bottle, yet I have this in both meads I've made so far - is this expected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T22:12:27.077" Title="mead - is shaking the bottle necessary" Tags="|bottling|mead|serving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6292" CreationDate="2012-02-11T22:12:27.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of such a thing and it's hard to believe that &quot;sweetness&quot; could stratify.  I've never seen that happen with any beverage.  So I'd say no, it's not to be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T22:12:27.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5079" CreationDate="2012-02-11T23:34:27.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are pros and cons to each approach.  In most cases, a long primary will be better than using a secondary fermentation vessel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three distinct advantages to leaving the beer in primary, without using a secondary at all:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is less risk of oxidation and infection since one transfer is eliminated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You do not need an expensive carboy to use as a secondary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's less trouble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also several disadvantages of performing a long primary fermentation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are using plastic buckets, a very long primary (more than 4 weeks) will allow some oxygen to contact the beer.  The plastic that the fermentation buckets are made of is slightly oxygen-permeable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since oxidation is not a concern, a longer aging in a glass container can produce a beer with greater clarity.  This may also be possible with a primary performed in a glass carboy, except:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A long primary may lead to autolysis (yeast death, after which their guts spill into your brew.)  The common consensus seems to be that autolysis flavors will only manifest after extremely long times in primary. Perhaps three months or more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few cases where a secondary vessel is advantageous:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will need one if you are adding fruit to the beer.  This is usually done by racking the beer on top of a pile of fruit or fruit puree in the secondary fermenter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some brewers prefer to dry-hop in a secondary fermenter (this can also be accomplished in a keg)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T23:34:27.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6286" CreationDate="2012-02-11T23:40:19.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;These gravities are pretty close together so it doesn't really matter much which you brew first.  As long as the yeast is sitting in the base of the fermentor as a tight cake you can pull more than enough beer out without it effecting the next one too much.  And you don't need to pitch the whole cake, just half a pint or so.  I have done this with good success and I don't bother washing the yeast although you can if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once pitched yeast from a spiced holiday ale into an American cream ale.  I had no noticeable carry over of spice or color change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T23:40:19.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6297" CreationDate="2012-02-12T00:17:56.300" Score="2" ViewCount="746" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed something like a Black IPA today (hoppy and dark).  I ferment in carboys in a chest freezer with an external temperature control.  It is frigid today, and the garage where the chest freezer is around 40 degrees F.  My wort seemed to end up at about 64 degrees.  I was planning on fermenting at 68 degrees using WLP001.  I made a large starter, which is at high krausen.  If I picth at 64 degrees, I know that fermentation will make the temperature rise, and its not supposed to be as cold in the next few days.  So I should have no problem getting up to 68 degrees (which is the lower end of the recommendation for this yeast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is that I'm not sure how quickly I should let the temperature rise.  I know that yeast can emit temperature shock proteins if they have too big of a daily temperature swing.  So I'm thinking of letting it get to 66 the first day, then 68 the second day.  Should I instead just let it get up to 68 quicker?  should I ramp it up slower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1168" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T00:54:59.733" Title="How quickly do I let the fermentation temperature rise if it starts off too low?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6296" CreationDate="2012-02-12T00:54:50.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For WLP001 pitching at 64F and letting it do its own thing up to 68F is perfectly fine.  You'll get the clean fermentation profile you are looking for.  I recently pitched at 62 and held it at 65 for a Cream Ale with WLP001 and it has came out great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did however ramp it up to 72 after the first 6 days were done.  This really helps ensure it dries out.  Then after 10 days I set it for 45 and let it fall back down to start crashing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T00:54:50.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6264" CreationDate="2012-02-12T01:03:01.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think its the same thing as cooking.  After you have eaten enough of the food you really love you begin to wonder how to make it at home.  This leads you to need to start exploring ingredients and how flavors come together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless to how you do come up with a recipe making the commitment to making recipes requires the homebrewer to do something most homebrewers don't do, repeat the same beer repeatedly.  Most homebrewers bounce wildly between styles.  If you really want to make a recipe for a beer of your own design one needs to commit to brewing the same thing a few times in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T01:03:01.217" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-12T01:03:01.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6286" CreationDate="2012-02-12T01:19:31.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those being so close in gravity, I'd not worry so much about the gravity and do whichever is lower in bitterness first.  I would probably not bother with the wash unless you had a lot of hop material in the trub.  Otherwise it is probably not worth the extra risk of contaimination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1168" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T01:19:31.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6264" CreationDate="2012-02-12T01:39:12.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recipe formulation software can be very helpful when you want to start playing around with recipes.  I'm fond of &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beer calculus&lt;/a&gt; which is online and free.  You can tell it the ingredients you are planning to use, and it will estimate gravity and color and bitterness for you.  If you tell it what style you are aiming for, it will tell you when you go beyond the guidelines for that style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1168" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T01:39:12.970" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-12T01:39:12.970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2012-02-12T02:03:19.153" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Write down everything you do.  Don't kid yourself into thinking &quot;I don't have to write this down, I'll remember&quot;, because you won't remember.  The better you are about this, the easier it will be to do things repeatably.  What temperature did you mash at? (not what temperature did the recipe say to mash at).  What was the {pre,post} boil gravity,  What was the {pre,post} boil volume.  When did the hops go in.  How long did chilling the wort take.  What was the gravity after X days of fermentation...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1168" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T02:03:19.153" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-12T02:03:19.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6304" CreationDate="2012-02-12T15:22:57.300" Score="1" ViewCount="1626" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A little background on the brew&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;For my latest batch, I followed &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/606507/oatmeal-stout-recipes/double-chocolate-oatmeal-bourbon-milk-stout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this recipe from hopville&lt;/a&gt;. I made a few alterations: I used a different strain of wyeast (London Ale III), I also used oak chips instead of an oak spiral. The brew store was out of the yeast the recipe called for, and I didn't want to bother ordering an oak spiral as they're sort of expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I transferred from primary to secondary two weeks ago. I added the oak chips, bourbon and cacao nibs to the carboy and siphoned the beer from my primary into the carboy. I was pretty careful and got little of the yeast cake at the bottom of the primary bucket. When I made the transfer from primary to secondary there was very little yeast floating on top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two weeks later there is a healthy looking yeast cake at the bottom of the carboy, but it looks like there is still active fermentation. There is a yeast cake floating at the top of the beer. Thus far all fermentation has been done at a cellar temp of about 62 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On to the question&lt;/strong&gt;: Is it safe to bottle yet? Or would the yeast be too active and I'd risk exploding bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2154" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T19:33:56.063" Title="Secondary Fermentation, Yeast still active?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|secondary-fermentation|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6303" CreationDate="2012-02-12T15:49:57.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to be sure that fermentation has stopped is with the help of a hydrometer. The gravity should be close to the expected terminal gravity (the recipe will tell you this), and should be stable over three or four days. Take a gravity reading today. Take another reading three days from now. If the gravity is low and has not changed, bottle the beer. If it continues to drop, you should wait until it's stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;London's Ale III is a high flocculation strain, while the yeast recommended by the recipe is not. You should expect the final gravity of your beer to be a point or two higher than what's stated in the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T15:49:57.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6286" CreationDate="2012-02-12T15:54:36.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's mostly a toss-up, but I'd suggest the 80 shilling as the first beer. The APA will leave considerably more hop residue in the fermenter. If you do the APA first, you'll either be adding a lot of spent hops when pitching the yeast, or you'll need to wash the yeast cake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T15:54:36.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6303" CreationDate="2012-02-12T19:33:56.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The act of racking will cause your beer to give up some of its dissovled CO2. This is often mis interpreted as activity because the airlock bubbles.  Also if the beer warms up at all more dissolved CO2 will come out and be perceived as bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your beer is likely done and was done before the transfer.  The only way to know for sure is with a hydrometer and see where the gravity is.  You should look up the expected attenuation range for the London Ale III yeast and see if you've made it into that range based on your starting gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T19:33:56.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5466" CreationDate="2012-02-12T22:44:24.403" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try adding yeast nutrient if you have it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2157" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T22:44:24.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6309" CreationDate="2012-02-13T03:18:43.910" Score="4" ViewCount="1536" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Backstory:&lt;/strong&gt; Ok, this is a bit weird. A friend had access to a couple of kegs of Lagunitas IPA, but only for a couple of hours until the kegs had to be returned (empty was OK with the owners). So he transferred the beer into a bunch of 1 liter snap-top bottles I had lying around. Predictably, the beer tastes fine but is almost flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; Is there any way to introduce carbonation at this point? We talked about putting a small amount of priming sugar in the bottles, but I thought I would ask here before nuking about 25 liters of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1392" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T16:37:26.807" Title="Recarbonate bottled keg beer" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6308" CreationDate="2012-02-13T12:39:55.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised the beer is flat. Transferring from keg to bottle can cause some carbonation to be lost, but the beer is rarely completely flat. Do you know if the snap-tops are air tight? If they're not, then you'll of course need to find some other suitable bottles. Screw-top bottles are air tight, and readily available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to a CO2 tank, then you could try adding some priming sugar. If the beer is very clear, then there probably is not enough yeast to ferment the priming sugar, and you should also pitch some yeast too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When working with priming sugar, you might be thinking of adding a little to each bottle. However, it's usually more accurate and sanitary to weigh out the entire amount (ca. 8oz/200g) and add this to a small quantity of water (say 5oz/130 ml), which you then boil and cool. One teaspoon of solution is then the right amount for each bottle. If you need to pitch some yeast, pitch about 1g of dried yeast into the cooled sugar solution (pitch at 75 °F). That will be sufficient to prime 25 liters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a CO2 tank, you could force carbonate by using a &quot;carbonator&quot; lid that screws on to plastic soda bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JO9DW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Carbonator cap&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At $15 a piece, these are quite pricey. But you can make your own from the existing plastic bottle cap and a tire valve stem, as described &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whenyeastattack.com/2011/09/25/diy-carbonator-caps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJfAv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DIY carbonator cap&quot;&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can help save your current batch, and will certainly be useful in future if you ever get more beer kegs you want to bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T16:05:37.490" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:05:37.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6352" CreationDate="2012-02-13T14:00:49.873" Score="4" ViewCount="4672" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just yesterday, I bought a chest freezer and digital Johnson temp controller, and am EXTREMELY psyched.  I think I'm going to make a pre-prohibition pilsner/classic american pilsner as my first lager.  However, as psyched as I am to expand the breadth of my brewing domain, I am realizing that what I love more than anything are ales!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ambient temp in my basement is around 60 degrees.  I have a cream ale going right now (not in the chest freezer), but in reading &quot;Brewing Classic Styles&quot; I am realizing that I will need the freezer to hold a temp ABOVE the ambient temp in the basement to make some of these.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there is a separate wiki on temp control, but I wanted to know if anyone had any opinions on the best way to incorporate a heating element without risking barbequeing my dog while he's helpless in his crate due to an electrical fire.  Things like the Brewbelt and the heating pads for inside a freezer make me nervous about fire risk and warping this $100 second-hand freezer I had to muscle down my vertical stairs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience with the best methods/products?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  I have looked at Brew Belts, Fermwrap, space heaters, and I believe there is a pad heater designed specifically to be put inside chest freezers for homebrewers (?).  Space is a concern, as I had to lobby strongly just to have the chest freezer, otherwise I would be all over the aquarium heater.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T12:32:41.663" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T17:27:54.997" Title="Heating Methods" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2012-02-13T14:12:25.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I already answered this, and I'm not sure if the poster is still looking, but consider making a wine (I know this isn't a winemaking forum).  Wine ages waaaay better, is easier to make than beer, and may make this a more worthwhile project.  My grandfather was a huge home wine maker, and made a wine that he aged at least 10 years before my oldest brother (his first grandchild) was born.  When they got back from the hospital, my grandfather ushered my dad to his wine cellar, uncorked, and after pouring, said &quot;Vino vinello, quanto sei bello&quot; (Italian for &quot;wine, little wine, how beautiful you are!&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-02-16T12:52:03.360" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T12:52:03.360" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-13T14:12:25.533" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6310" CreationDate="2012-02-13T14:17:57.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My chest freezer is in a garage which is much colder than 60, probably in the 40s or 50s, and right now I have an ale fermenting at 68 degrees with no heating.  My wort was at 64 degrees when I pitched the yeast, and the heat of fermentation got the temperature up a few degrees.  So you might find that 60 degrees ambient is no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do end up needing to warm thing up a bit, and are concerned with putting electronics in the freezer, you could perhaps do something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/Beer-Gadgets/Pond-Pump-Cooler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this pumped water solution&lt;/a&gt; but using a pond heater or aquarium heater in the water reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my chest freezer, for getting tubes/wires in and out of the freezer, I built a wedge out of wood that props the door open a bit while still keeping it relatively air tight, giving me wood to drill through instead of having to modify the freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1168" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T14:17:57.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6314" CreationDate="2012-02-13T14:23:39.417" Score="3" ViewCount="1926" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than buying buckets or carboys, I would like to use 5 gallon PET water bottles that I can get free from work (I verified they are PET with the &quot;1&quot; on the bottom). However all my extract recipes are for 5 gallon batches, which would not leave any room for fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any harm in reducing the volume to about 4 gallons for fermentation in these containers? I like higher gravity beers, for what it's worth, but I don't know if there's an upper limit. My next batch is going to be a Russian Imperial Stout (OG: 1.082).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T18:24:11.337" Title="Fermenting in 5 gallon PET bottles" Tags="|fermentation|primary|plastic|batch-size|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6313" CreationDate="2012-02-13T14:42:25.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermenting in a the free 5 gallon bottles you can get will work fine - after all that's pretty much what &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.better-bottle.com/faq.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Better Bottle&lt;/a&gt; PET Carboys are. Compared to the 2-2.5 gallons of headspace you get in a bucket fermentor, the 1 gallon that you're leaving isn't much, especially for a high gravity beer like a RIS, so be sure to use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerutopia.com/2008/08/25/home-brew-brewing-a-belgian-dubbel/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blowoff tube&lt;/a&gt; rather than an airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably best to also scale the recipe size down from 5 gallons to 4 gallons, unless you really like very big beers! (1.082 RIS 5 gallon recipe brewed at 4 gallons will come out at 1.102.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kvtkN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;blowoff tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-13T18:24:11.337" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T18:24:11.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6310" CreationDate="2012-02-13T17:45:22.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a $15 &quot;aquarium heater&quot; to get a Belgian beer up to 84F to fully dry it out. These gadgets are designed to be submerged all the time without any risk, so long as you follow the instructions. I put my carboy in a water bath, which was just a big cooler, and put the heater below the water level of the cooler. Seemed to work fine for me. I raised my temp from ambient 70F to 84F within a day or so I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T17:45:22.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6316" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-13T22:10:07.097" Score="3" ViewCount="5339" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the implications, if any, of brewing beer with water treated by a water softener?  I've read lots of conflicting information and am looking for something more scientific and definitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T16:30:02.423" Title="Home Brewing with Soft Water" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6316" CreationDate="2012-02-13T23:45:50.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A concern with using softened water, whether all grain or extract, is that the large amount of sodium introduced will give a salty taste to the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the scientific perspective, Mr Wizard, at BYO &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/article/indices/56-water/1689-would-you-please-enlighten-me-on-brewing-with-softened-water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;writes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Water softeners work by replacing calcium and magnesium ions in water&#xA;  with sodium. Two atoms of sodium are added for every atom of calcium&#xA;  or magnesium removed from the water. This means that if your well&#xA;  water has 100 ppm (mg/L) of calcium and 20 ppm of magnesium that the&#xA;  softened water will contain a whopping 240 ppm of sodium. As far as&#xA;  brewing water is concerned, sodium adds palate fullness and sweetness&#xA;  up to about 100 ppm. At higher concentrations, sodium gives beer a&#xA;  salty flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The real problem with using softened water for brewing is that most&#xA;  homes equipped with water softeners have harder than average water.&#xA;  Thus, the water produced by the softener is in turn very high in&#xA;  sodium. For this reason softened water is often only used for utility&#xA;  water (water for showers, toilets, washing machines and the like).&#xA;  Water piped to sink faucets bypasses the softener. The above example&#xA;  of 100 ppm calcium and 20 ppm magnesium would most likely not warrant&#xA;  a home water softener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get a city water report or have your water tested, then that may help you decide if you will end up with too much sodium or not after passing it through the softener. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the water is fairly hard (otherwise it wouldn't need softening), it's better to skip the softener and use the hard water as is. This is fine if you're brewing extract, since the concentrations of hardness causing minerals are not so important, although if your bicarbonate or carbonate levels are over 300ppm then you might consider diluting, although taste the water first after boiling it and see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're all grain brewing, then you'll need the water report, and use that as a basis to determine how much to dilute the water to get the dissolved minerals to acceptable levels. You dilute the water with distilled/deionized/RO water to reduce the overall amount of dissolved solids in the brewing liquor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all grain, it's really best to skip the softener, otherwise you'll have the counter-productive arrangement where calcium and magnesium are first removed by the softener and replaced by twice as much sodium, only for the brewer to then add back in more calcium and magnesium, since these are needed in the mash. By diluting your hard water you can end up with a workable water profile without introducing all the unwanted sodium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T18:00:42.803" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T18:00:42.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1769" CreationDate="2012-02-14T03:47:05.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a banana beer before. Lots of bananas &amp;amp; some brown sugar.&#xA;It didn't taste like bananas (except a faint hint after swallowing).&#xA;It tasted like a lo-dollar asti spumanti &amp;amp; ±13% (ok, so quite a bit of brown sugar).&#xA;As close as I recall, 10 lb bananas, 5 lb brown sugar, 2 lb Munich malt (to do the starch conversion &amp;amp; give a whisper of that Munich flavor) in 5 gal.&#xA;150° mash 45 min (extremely difficult to lauter). boil to clean-break.&#xA;EC-1118.&#xA;This is from 10 year-old memory; the only part I fully recall is 13% &amp;amp; asti spumanti flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: learned a bit more using bananas in winemaking. Many fruit wines are a bit thin &amp;amp; banana adds body. Using an open boil, most of the aromatics (flavor) of the bananas go away. &#xA;Placing the cut up banana in a ziploc bag with a little water &amp;amp; amylase kept at 140-145 for 4 hours the banana flavor remains &amp;amp; the starches turn to sugars.&#xA;Works well both ways, just depends on what you want to accomplish.&#xA;I maintained the temp by placing the ziploc in a crock pot that was plugged into a temp controller. If you have a sous-vide rig that would be easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put banana in the secondary it is quite the mess that takes a very long time to clear up. Of course, that may help in getting more aging time in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2160" LastEditorUserId="16024" LastEditDate="2018-02-13T17:25:25.680" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T17:25:25.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-14T05:52:39.893" Score="3" ViewCount="4696" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my brother-in-law (great guy, btw) sent me a brew kit, ingredients, and instructions. Except the instructions never went over the whole &quot;sanitation thing&quot;... So, uh oh... I didn't sanitize the fermenting bucket (eek) and then my daughter even came in and threw a dish rag in the waiting 2.5 gallons of water we put the cooled Wort into (Pretty sure it was a clean rag...my wife was folding towel laundry... and the Water didnt look dirty afterwards.. had I known sanitation was such a big deal I would have begun with a fresh and sanitized bucket of water...) Are we screwed? Any predictions? Suggestions? Should I start over?? (Would be a waste wouldn't it?) Oh, and are there any &quot;watchouts&quot; to look for after fermentation is over? Smells? Also, is there any dangers of continuing to bottling/drink? Thanks-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2161" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T06:33:56.437" Title="What will happen to this un-sanitized batch of Wheat beer?" Tags="|sanitation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2012-02-14T09:39:42.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know - I've had a 12 year old Barley Wine which tasted good. I would say a big ABV Barley Wine or Imperial Stout. I'm sure it'll keep for 21 years but it will change flavours substantially. Fullers Vintage Ale 2000 basically tasted like port or sherry - i.e. nothing like a barley wine but not unpleasant either. Don't listen to the naysayers - just do it and see what happens...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://protzonbeer.co.uk/features/2012/02/14/royal-beer-that-never-saw-the-light-of-day&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://protzonbeer.co.uk/features/2012/02/14/royal-beer-that-never-saw-the-light-of-day&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which substantiates what I said in some ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastEditorUserId="1871" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T12:58:01.210" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T12:58:01.210" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-14T09:39:42.400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6320" CreationDate="2012-02-14T10:10:29.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nice story! I understand your anxiety. I did the same with my first kit, although I sanitized, it was the wrong type - I used what wine makers often use, sodium metabisulphate. Also the kit was several years old. so I got very little airlock activity and in the space of a couple of weeks brewed 6 gallons of vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yours may not turn out like that. If the kit is fresh and the yeast get off to a quick start, then you may be ok - the yeast outcompete many organisms by making the wort even more acidic and removing oxygen, and later by producing alcohol. Keep an eye on the bucket for the next 24 hours - hopefully you should see a lot of airlock activity, 3-5 bubbles per second, and a large fluffy cream cake with brown floaties on top of the beer. All of these things are good signs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer is contaminated, the most likely contaminant is acetobacter, they're on pretty much everything, and literally produce vinegar. However, a little of this in the beer may not completely ruin the beer - wheats can have a little sourness or tartness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to be patient and wait it out and see...and make sure you santize everything that comes into contact with the chilled wort or beer from now on! Starsan and iodophor are great sanitizers, and very convenient to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to drinking, there will be nothing harmful in the beer. If you like the taste, then bottle and drink. If you don't, then throw it and chalk one up to experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T00:51:24.847" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T00:51:24.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6320" CreationDate="2012-02-14T13:34:27.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to the great answer above, the only way to know is time.  I am assuming you got a dry packet of US-05 or some other ale yeast in the kit?  Did you rehydrate this yeast?  I ask because although you don't NEED to do this (according to the packet), it would have given the yeast a 'head start' to start replicating and elbowing the acetobacter out of the way and into extinction within your fermenter.  For future reference, if using dry yeast, ALWAYS rehydrate.  It will help to not stress the yeast, which can be a common cause of many off-flavors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another best practice I've found is to: 1.)  buy a big thing of starsan (it doesn't go bad, you need very little of it to mix, and it will get you through tons of brew/bottling/racking sessions); 2.)  either buy, or (after HEAVILY rinsing) commandeer a spray bottle, and any time you mix up a big batch of star san (i'm usually mixing at least 2-3 gallons, as you need about a table spoon diluted with that much water), fill up the spray bottle so you can 'spot' sanitize.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just last night, I racked an IPA to dry-hop it, and was able to hit areas where I wanted to napalm those little critters that can ruin an otherwise perfectly delicious batch of brew.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have never heard of anyone complaining of star-san flavors when it gets into the beer, so it is TRULY 'no-rinse'.  This is not the case with bleach and some other solutions that will kill surface bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as your question re: smells, etc., I would first say that 'you will know if its bad'.  However, as you haven't likely been around fermenting beer that often, I would caution you that sometimes funky smells can come from the airlock and it is perfectly fine.  These can be just by-products of yeast metabolizing the sugars.  However, if you get an INTENSE vinegar, rotten eggs, or really unpalatable smell, it could be infected.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might I also recommend purchasing or borrowing a copy of &quot;How to Brew&quot; by John Palmer prior to/for your next brew (if you choose to do one, and let's hope you do).  Great reference for ALL levels of homebrewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, DO NOT touch this beer for at least 5 days.  I know it is killing you, but what will happen will happen, and lets hope the yeast prevail.  Only time will tell though, and by opening the fermenter and checking it can only introduce more bacteria into an otherwise closed environment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know how it goes, good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T13:34:27.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6327" CreationDate="2012-02-14T17:02:43.037" Score="6" ViewCount="9572" Body="&lt;p&gt;Granted, it officially would not be beer (dunno what it would be called), but as a cereal grain that is maltable and grindable, it seems that it should also be pretty brewable.  I'd be interested in making something like that just to try it... but googling has turned up nothing on it, so I'm curious as to why that is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T17:09:55.500" Title="Can you use only malted wheat to brew?" Tags="|brewing|wheat|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6324" CreationDate="2012-02-14T17:23:59.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) It would be beer. Beer is an alcoholic beverage made from grain, it doesn't have to be made from barley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The most important thing to remember about wheat is that it has no husk. No husk = no filter bed for your grain when you lauter. No filter = stuck mash. It is possible to lauter an all-wheat mash, but it takes a very long time and is tricky. This is basically why no one does it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: A book that talks about all-wheat brewing is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1592537316&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Brewer's Apprentice&lt;/a&gt;. In it, a German wheat-beer brewer talks about the percentages modern breweries use, and how older breweries would make beers from 100% wheat. He's pretty dismissive of the practice, saying &quot;They must have had a lot of time to lauter.&quot; (that quote's from memory, so I'm paraphrasing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastEditorUserId="758" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T18:07:02.227" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T18:07:02.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6324" CreationDate="2012-02-14T17:58:18.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing from your title you're interested in using non-malted wheat to contrast with using malted wheat? If so, then yes, that's often done in brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a Belgian Wit typically contains around 40-50% flaked unmalted wheat. And some English beers use torrefied (puffed) unmalted wheat as ca. 10% of the grain bill to aid in head retention and add.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking further afield from wheat, some of the big brewers use plain rice rather than malt to lighten the body since rice is almost completely fermentable and produces little color or body, just alcohol. It's also a lot cheaper than malted grain so it lightens their check book too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these come under the heading &quot;cereal adjuncts&quot;. Is it possible to make a beer with just unmalted cereals? Fortunately not, or it wouldn't be beer as we know it, more like rice wine. (And for that, you would need to add amylolytic enzymes to break down the starch.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the main side-affects of malting grain is that additional enzymes are created in the grain. When the malt is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mashing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mashed&lt;/a&gt;, the amylolytic enzymes break down the starch into mostly fermentable sugars, and some non-fermentable sugars. Malted barley contains plenty of these enzymes, enough to convert it's own starch plus other starches added to the mash, such as cereal adjuncts. But, there is a limit - with the best enzymatic malts, you can use about 40% grain and 60% adjuncts and still get full conversion of the starch, but that's as far as it will go. Trying to use even more cereals will leave starch in the beer, or require the addition of more enzymes (as is done when making rice wine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T18:11:58.077" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T18:11:58.077" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6324" CreationDate="2012-02-14T18:03:05.093" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A similar question was asked &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=&amp;amp;t=14135&quot;&gt;here on the BN forum&lt;/a&gt;.  It all boils down (no pun intended) to whether the wheat malt will have enough diastatic power to convert itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to that is a little confusing to me so far.  The charts at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Wheat_Malt&quot;&gt;Home Brewing Wiki here&lt;/a&gt; give diastatic power as percentages, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2010/01/04/diastatic-power-and-mashing-your-beer/&quot;&gt;other references&lt;/a&gt; I've found use Lintner or Windisch-Kolbach units.  Below °L is &quot;degrees Lintner&quot;, not Lovibond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to most of the sources, a malt needs a diastatic power of approximately 35 °L or 106.5 °WK to be considered “self converting”.  Taking a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Distilling/distillersmalt.htm#wheat&quot;&gt;Breiss' wheat malts&lt;/a&gt;, they claim 190-200 °L for their &quot;high enzyme&quot; wheat malts, which is higher than the 6-row!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So find out the diastatic power of the particular malted wheat you want to use.  If it's &gt; 35 °L, you should be in business for some mashing action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T18:03:05.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6329" CreationDate="2012-02-14T18:22:19.833" Score="4" ViewCount="2148" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the function of a stir plate when making a yeast starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it drastically improve the starter process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2158" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T22:29:18.020" Title="What is a stir plate?" Tags="|equipment|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6328" CreationDate="2012-02-14T18:46:31.373" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point of a stirplate is to help the yeast propagate by aerating the wort. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/yeast-propagation-and-maintenance-principles-and-practices&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yeast Propagation and Maintainance&lt;/a&gt; claim stirring can increase yeast cell count by 10-15 times, compared to simply using an airlock (non-aerated) or 2.5 times the cell count of the traditionally aerated starter (aquarium pump).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important not to use an airlock, since the primary function of the stir-plate is to help oxygen enter the wort all the while the yeast are propagating, since oxygen is needed for yeast growth. It does this by continually agitating the wort, and so increases the rate of absorbtion of oxygen into the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy stirplates, but they're quite expensive, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewiki.org/StirPlate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;build your own&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T22:29:18.020" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T22:29:18.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6328" CreationDate="2012-02-14T18:47:35.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically it's a rotating magnet that forces a iron stir bar inside the starter to rotate. The rotating stir bar stirs the starter, keeping it in continuous motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It helps the yeast starter process by exposing more surface area of the starter to oxygen. Yeast then use that oxygen to reproduce. Since the yeast are exposed to more oxygen than they would be without a stir plate, they reproduce more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the yeast reproduce more, you get a larger amount of healthy yeast using a stir plate than you would without.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T18:47:35.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6328" CreationDate="2012-02-14T20:42:31.273" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you'll find this link most helpful to your complex query about these mythical &quot;stir plates&quot;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://lmgtfy.com/?q=what+is+a+stir+plate%3F&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://lmgtfy.com/?q=what+is+a+stir+plate%3F&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T20:42:31.273" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6334" CreationDate="2012-02-14T21:39:07.677" Score="7" ViewCount="13513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build a bunch of tap handles, and am a little confused on what I need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need both of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRiEV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hangar bolt&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aGGAm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ferrule&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/16296/beerwinecoffee/Hanger_Bolt_-_5_16%22_for_Ferrule&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hangar Bolt&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/16294/beerwinecoffee/Brass_Ferrule&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ferrule&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or just this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R4Tri.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/tap-handle-insert.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tap Handle Insert&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or something else / other things entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T02:43:05.917" Title="What do I need to build a tap handle?" Tags="|diy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6333" CreationDate="2012-02-14T21:56:38.313" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well...yes :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to have a ferrule on your handle like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OLssW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then you need the hangar bolt and ferrule.  The hangar bolt has 5/16&quot;-18 male threads on the ferrule side, while the ferrule has 5/16&quot;-18 female threads on the top, and 3/8&quot;-16 female threads on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want only wood at the bottom of your handle like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tjUAc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then you want the threaded insert (3/8&quot;-16).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protip: if you're planning on doing several, order your inserts in bags of 10 from a place like McMaster-Carr.  It's a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; cheaper that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to see how I make taphandles on my lathe, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL54B262DA0BFAA2D8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;check out my videos here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T02:10:06.033" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T02:10:06.033" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6337" CreationDate="2012-02-14T22:09:05.187" Score="1" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;The all-grain saga continues. I boosted the SG to 1.070 from the OG of 1.030 with cane sugar. 10 days later, the fermentation seems to have stopped and the gravity is 1.040. As mentioned before, the collected wort was very cloudy and I wonder if the specific gravity of the original wort was effected by the suspended solids so that my actual sugar extraction during the mashing process was not as great as indicated by the hydrometer. So, I am considering clarifying the mix and starting over with the fermentation. Will probably have to adjust the pH to get back to a yeast friendly wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will clarifying at this point remove fermentable sugars? My understanding is that clarifying removes suspended solids and not dissolved sugars. Is this true? Will this give me a more accurate gravity measurement/max abv calculation? Should I just clarify and bottle this as a sweet light beer at this point (abv estimated @ 4%) instead of going for the higher abv desired at the start of this batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T02:13:08.027" Title="Is clarifying while fermenting a problem?" Tags="|clarity|stuck-fermentation|clarification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2623" CreationDate="2012-02-14T23:12:16.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With respect to brewchez - no, don't put priming sugar in your keg - it works against you and can throw the taste of your beer. Moreover if you have a good, sealed keg you won't lose C02 and in fact the pressure will help keep the beer carbonated to just the right atm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do is condition my beer down to 45 degrees (an ale) and when I'm ready to keg it, I use a carbonation stone on the inlet:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=carbonation+stone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=carbonation+stone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got mine from MoreBeer.com and it works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key here is that the beer is cold - that helps absorb the CO2. Pushing the CO2 in through the stone helps diffuse the CO2 which helps it go into solution quicker. You don't need to shake the keg (which is what most places tell you to do) - just let the CO2 pressurize to about 25-30 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let mine sit for a few hours and then bleed down to 12 psi or so - and it's ready to drink within a few hours. It won't be perfect, but it will be carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My kegs usually take 24 hours or so to come to the right amount - but be careful, make sure you set the valve to the right psi - if you leave it on and leave it up at 35 psi your beer will over-carbonate and you'll be sad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="956" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T23:12:16.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6335" CreationDate="2012-02-14T23:15:37.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clarification will not remove dissolved sugars. It's the same reason why in order to remove the proteins that cause chill haze, you have to chill the beer first to get the proteins to precipitate out of solution into solids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the sugar dissolves, it interacts with the water on a molecular level, producing no overall charge. Yet, all finings work by electrostatic attraction (opposite charges attract), and so the fining cannot remove the combined sugar and water since it has no charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know the full history of this brew, but if you just want to get an accurate gravity reading, you of course don't need to clarify the whole brew - just take a sample and leave that to settle or add a small amount of finings to accelerate clearing. Also, I doubt clarifying will help your stuck ferment. Instead, just rouse the yeast a little and also raise the temperature 5 degrees if it's on the cold side for your yeast - the increased metabolic rate will help them get started again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, you can try a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/forced-fermentation-test.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forced ferment test&lt;/a&gt;. The forced ferment tells you what the actual FG is for this brew. From your figures, there should be at least 10 points left of 100% fermentable succrose left, plus whatever fermentables came from your mash, so you'd expect the FG to be 1.020 or less, assuming 70%+ attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking off and starting the ferment again seems like a lot of effort. I would try these few simple things first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T23:15:37.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6341" CreationDate="2012-02-15T01:49:36.567" Score="2" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took delivery of a five gallon pail of white wine juice. Supposedly, the juice had been refrigerated on its trip from California and stored in a cool warehouse here in my home town. However, when it was delivered it was actively fermenting. I don't know what the original gravity was, but the current gravity is around 1.045. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do at this point? I have a packet of Lalvin K1V1116 that I was planning on rehydrating and pitching. Should I pitch this yeast, or is it now too late for to have much effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I add sulphite to try to knock down the wild yeasts? Or will this just interfere with the yeast I'm pitching?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I oxygenate or will that just oxidise the must?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this wine be saved, or am I out of luck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T10:33:32.453" Title="Premature fermentation of wine must. What to do?" Tags="|yeast|wine|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6335" CreationDate="2012-02-15T02:13:08.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suspended solids will not effect the hydrometer readings.&#xA;Clarifying will not remove the dissolved sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your high FG is because you had more simple sugar than maltose present by adding 40 additional points of gravity with sugar.  Your yeast feasted on the simple sugar and wore itself out before attacking the maltose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a fan of trying to save these types of failures, but your best bet is to make a 1 gallon starter of fresh yeast and pitch it at high krausen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it tastes OK then you can bottle it but that might be dangerous with the high gravity reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T02:13:08.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6324" CreationDate="2012-02-15T05:05:20.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can brew a beer from 100% malted wheat. It will absolutely convert. The Weyermann pale malted wheat is 200+ °WK (Windisch-Kolbach units, which converts to ~ 62° Lintner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, Weyermann recommends...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Recommended Quantities: Up to 80% in Bavarian-style Weizenbiers, up to 50% in North&#xA;American pub wheat ales, up to 7% in Altbier and Kölsch&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need a lot of rice hulls if you go with 100% wheat to help with lautering, but I'd go ahead and try it if the fancy takes you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do it, I'd be interested in the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T05:05:20.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6338" CreationDate="2012-02-15T08:33:58.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing is to store it in a cool place to slow down the fermentation while you make your plan of attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a specific yeast profile you are looking for, then it's probably best to knock out the existing yeast now - depending upon the OG, current SG of 1.045 could well be less than half way through the fermentation, so you still have plenty to go. You can add sulphites to knock out the yeast (such as 1 campden tablet per gallon), although you'll need to leave the must for at least 24 hours,  loosely covered (no airlock) so that the sulphur dioxide can dissipate. (It's not like Potassium Sorbate, which is a permanent yeast inhibitor.) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lalvinyeast.com/K1V1116.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;K1V1116&lt;/a&gt; is tolerant to high levels of sulphur dioxide, so 24 hours should be plenty. Rehydrate the yeast first, as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lalvinyeast.com/strains.asp#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lalvin describes&lt;/a&gt;, to get the maximum cell count and then pitch. Since the must is already partly fermented, your pitching cell count should be high enough, and aerating the must isn't necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take another hydrometer sample, and taste/smell to get an idea of the flavor profile of the wild yeasts. If they are not contributing any unpleasant flavors now, then the wine should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T10:33:32.453" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T10:33:32.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6255" CreationDate="2012-02-15T09:23:40.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While not a complete answer in itself, I thought I'd share a datum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specialty yeast can get quite expensive, up to $20 for a batch. You can stick to basic all purpose yeasts like Safale US05 or Danstar Nottingham (or lash out on something more boutique) and reuse your yeast from batch to batch. Search this site for heaps of advice. techniques, etc and read How To Brew by John Palmer (online version is free!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T09:23:40.887" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-15T09:23:40.887" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6344" CreationDate="2012-02-15T11:29:16.340" Score="4" ViewCount="10735" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I know this question has been asked the other way round, but I'm in the UK and I'd like to make a solid American IPA, and I'm wondering what the best UK malt would be to replace US pale ale malt for this purpose.  I've heard that staple UK varieties like Maris Otter don't quite work well.  Does anyone have any suggestions? I should also add that I don't know of any means to get US malt in the UK, so import over the Atlantic probably isn't possible, even if I wanted to...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1425" LastActivityDate="2017-02-26T20:39:19.503" Title="What's the best UK malt to use instead of 'US 2-row pale ale malt'" Tags="|malt|ipa|americanipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6343" CreationDate="2012-02-15T12:22:44.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.muntons.com/homebeer/other-products/grain_malt.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Muntons Pale Ale&lt;/a&gt; malt - it's a good solid base that's fairly clean and doesn't bring oodles of that soft biscuit maltiness and complexity that you get with the Maris Otter malt. It's highly modified, so well suited to single infusions and has good diastatic power so you can add adjuncts to the mash also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a pale malt rather than a lager/pilsner malt, you'll still get some malt backbone, just not so &quot;in your face&quot; as with the MO. However, since US 2-row is quite &quot;dry/grainy&quot;, and you might want your IPA to be &quot;just hops&quot; then you could try using a good pilsner malt, which will contribute the least flavour from the malt. Personally, I'd go with the pale, since you need a little malt to stack the hops up against. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, all these malts are &quot;2-row&quot; - although barley strain does contribute something, the primary difference between the US and UK malts in how they are handled by the maltster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've brewed with US 2-row and Muntons, and to be honest, unless you're comparing them side by side, it's going to be difficult to discern any difference in something as hoppy as a IPA. (EDIT: My LHBS just stocks it as Muntons Pale malt - when I got the 25kg sack, I remember now it was Optic. So the suggestion you have to use Optic seems on the mark.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more anecdotal evidence comparing grain flavours, (&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?t=37766&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We did: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;English 2-row pale | Briess 2-row pale | Marris Otter | Belgian Pale Ale &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Generally, &quot;flavor&quot; increased as you moved down the list I put above.&#xA;  There were subtle differences in all of them. The English and American&#xA;  2-row pale were nearly indistinguishable except the american had a&#xA;  slight &quot;grainy&quot; flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kqiMhaoB9o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;base malt experiment: tasting&lt;/a&gt; [Youtube]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://grainandgrain.com/2011/09/16/base-malt-experiment/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;base malt experiment&lt;/a&gt; - blog entry comparing 5 different base malts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-02-26T20:39:19.503" LastActivityDate="2017-02-26T20:39:19.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6310" CreationDate="2012-02-15T14:09:07.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;went with a self-adhesive pad that sticks to the inside of the freezer.  $40 shipped on Williams Brewing.  Probably could have found something cheaper that would have worked with my temp controller, but being a complete electrical novice (and lazy), hopefully this will be a good solution.  Folks over @ HBT gave this some pretty good reviews.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T14:09:07.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6347" CreationDate="2012-02-15T15:16:43.317" Score="5" ViewCount="2035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just started homebrewing. The guy at the local homebrew store swears that I don't need any secondary fermentors, that I should just leave my brews in the primary to age and then bottle condition them. I have a plastic bucket fermentor and two 5 gallon PET bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to brew some high gravity beers (RIS and an English Barleywine) as well as a dry mead. Since I'm going to be aging a bunch of batches simultaneously I'd rather not spend ~$40/each on glass carboys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to leave them in the primary for 4-6 months, then bottle condition them after that. Is this a bad idea? What's the worst that could happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T17:17:48.123" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T23:55:33.400" Title="Very long primary in plastic" Tags="|aging|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6346" CreationDate="2012-02-15T15:42:12.240" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Abridged answer:  primary them for 6 weeks, and if your gravity is where you want it, then rack to one of your PET bottles and age.  Simply, you could have some off-flavors as a result of yeast autolysis.  For higher-gravity beers, you want to let the yeast do their work, but if there is going to be 9 or higher ABV once fermentation is completed, that is a hostile environment for yeast, and they can break down and leak stuff from inside their cell wall into your beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not an expert, but my general rule of thumb is: after the krausen has subsided, let the yeast clean up some of the other compounds (the higher the gravity, the longer), then if you want to purely 'condition' your beer, get it off the yeast cake and let it mature by its lonesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2012-02-21T23:55:33.400" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T23:55:33.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6346" CreationDate="2012-02-15T15:45:21.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Worst&lt;/strong&gt; that could happen is you ruin the batch (undrinkable) and end up with stained containers that give a strange flavor to things you use them with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's probably unlikely.  If you use the plastic bucket for 4-6 months with the mead, you may end up leaching some of the plastic chemicals into the mead, giving it a plasticy taste.  If you're set on using plastic, I'd go for the PET bottles, as they are actually meant for longer term fermentation.  They claim to be as good as glass, but I've only read of people using them for beer, which is in there for a significantly shorter period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I only use a primary fermentation for my meads, and I do it in a glass carboy.  I have 14 of them going right now.  If cost is the issue, I'd suggest hitting up your buddies for some investment capital.  A promise of half a dozen bottles of mead can really loosen the purse strings.   =D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1123" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T15:45:21.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4179" CreationDate="2012-02-15T22:44:10.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know what?&#xA;I have a witbier going in my closet right now that has orange peel in it and I've been worrying about this very process.  I was thinking of inventing some sort of contraption that has a pole running down that has another pole inside of it.  When I push down it would spread out a metal mesh that would keep the sediment from coming up the siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOWEVER, this seems really complicated to do AND clean, so I came up with a new idea I'm going to try this weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of taking some thin copper wire and wrapping it around the base of the siphon (just once or twice... just enough to make it secure) and then taking the ends of the wire and bending it over the opening about an inch away from it so that it forms a bulb (use both ends to create the bulb).&#xA;After the bulb is made, just tie a single piece of cheese cloth around it to create a filter system.  This way the bulb is big enough to minimize the suction force (which traps the fruit) while also allowing for water to flow around the fruit.  I'll take a picture and let you guys know how it goes when I finish.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that when you run out of fluid in the carboy, you just press down on the bottom and the bulb collapses, allowing you to get every last inch.  The overall cost should be........ 2 cents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2168" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T22:44:10.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-16T13:14:56.930" Score="7" ViewCount="2560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using a fridge w/thermostat to control fermentation temperature for ~6 months now &amp;amp; have recently started dual-purposing the fridge for a keg as well.  Since serving &amp;amp; fermentation temperatures don't match I can't run them both in the same fridge simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to maximise beer drinking time, I'd like to aim to regulate fermentation temperatures for the shortest time possible.  At what part of the fermentation process (or any other process really) is temperature control most valuable?  The first hours while yeast gains a foothold?  Conditioning?  The whole lot?  How much ambient temperature fluctuation do I really need to care about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="2083" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T07:30:57.137" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T22:40:07.383" Title="At what stage of the fermentation process is temperature control most important?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|refrigeration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6350" CreationDate="2012-02-16T14:43:00.310" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of controlling esters/fusels/flavors, my understanding is that temperature control is most important in the first 48-72 hours of fermentation. But in terms of yeast happiness, temp control can be more important for a longer stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the temperature of the beer will rise after you turn off temp control, then you don't have a big problem. But if the temperature will drop, then you'll probably want to keep the temp control on for longer. Once the temp drops, some yeast (especially English strains) will simply stop working, leaving you with a green, unfinished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since my basement is so cold, I tend to keep temp control on for 7-10 days, warming the beer at the end to encourage diacetyl cleanup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T14:43:00.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6310" CreationDate="2012-02-16T16:26:29.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm also looking for a similar solution - don't really want to mess about with extra water baths, and I have a controller that can control both a heater and a cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think any low wattage pad would do the job - in the region of 30W-50W would be plenty to maintain the temperature inside the fridge. I think it makes sense you want the pad to be waterproof since there can be quite a bit of condensation in the fridge, and of course the accidental spill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I've found 2 types of heat mats that fit these parameters:&#xA;seedling mats&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BZxfc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;seedling mat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and water reptile (vivarium) heat mats.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sjd2A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;reptile heat mat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(not all reptile mats are waterproof, so double-check.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is heat loss through the freezer walls in the range 5-15W, so a 20W mat would be a minimum, while a 50W mat is plenty to provide a step increase in temperature, such as drying out a saison, as well as maintaining the existing temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some heat mats custom made for brewing. Searches for &quot;brew heat pad&quot; and &quot;carboy heat mat&quot; bring up homebrewing shops around the globe, and this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winemakersdepot.com/Brewers-and-Wine-Making-Heat-Pad-P700.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt; the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r71sS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-16T17:27:54.997" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T17:27:54.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6364" CreationDate="2012-02-16T17:56:45.310" Score="4" ViewCount="3574" Body="&lt;p&gt;6.6 lbs. (3.0 kg) Briess light, unhopped, malt extract&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.7 lbs. (0.77 kg) light dry extract&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;22 oz. (0.62 kg) flaked oats&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) chocolate malt (350 °L)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 oz. (0.34 kg) roast barley malt (450 °L)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9.0 oz. (0.25 kg) debittered, black malt (530 °L)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7.0 oz. (0.19 kg) crystal malt (120 °L)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.0 oz. (57 g) ground French Pressed Sumatran coffee&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.0 oz. (57 g) ground Cold Pressed Kona coffee&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.5 oz. (71 g) Scharffen Berger Baker's Dark Bittersweet Chocolate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.5 oz. (43 g) Scharffen Berger Unsweetended Baker's Chocolate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;14.3 AAU Nugget pellet hops (60 min.) (1.1 oz./ 31 g of 13% alpha acid)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.5 AAU Willamette pellet hops (30 min.) (0.5 oz./ 14 g of 5 % alpha acid)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.5 AAU Willamette pellet hops (0 min.) (0.5 oz./ 14 g of 5 % alpha acid)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wyeast 1056 Amercan Ale Yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I melted the chocolate (which came in bar form) in a double boiler and added it to the last 10mins of the boil. It mixed right in perfectly. After flameout French Pressed Sumatra coffee added when wort got down to 190degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My OG was 1.063 at 65degrees and after 11 days its down to 1.017 at 67degrees.&#xA;The coffee taste is nice, smooth and fresh. Not bitter at all, the french press is definitely the way to go. The chocolate flavor is nice and subtle, but I feel like the original Founder's version has a more upfront chocolate flavor.&#xA;I'm already loving the taste of this beer, but I feel like when I add the Kona coffee to the secondary in a few days that it may completely mask the chocolate flavor. So I was thinking of adding some more chocolate in the secondary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have organic roasted cocoa nibs that I could add about 2oz to the secondary, but what is the best method of sanitizing them? Should I soak them in vodka overnight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also has anyone every used cold pressed coffee in their secondary? I figure if I sanitize the french press and use poland spring water, along with the alcohol content of the beer that I shouldn't worry about an infection, but that is still in the back of my mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2021" LastEditorUserId="2021" LastEditDate="2012-02-16T18:44:56.667" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T17:59:32.153" Title="Adding Chocolate &amp; Coffee to Secondary" Tags="|secondary|stout|coffee|chocolate|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6357" CreationDate="2012-02-16T18:48:01.170" Score="3" ViewCount="1291" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you need to grind flaked rye and malted rye before mashing? Didn't on my first all-grain and I'm not terribly pleased with the lack of extraction. Used the appropriate rests and extra amylase. Ran across a post that Denny did on another site that mentioned grinding malted rye. Is this always necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2022-11-21T10:47:48.390" Title="Grinding malted rye and rye flakes for all-grain" Tags="|all-grain|rye|grinding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6358" CreationDate="2012-02-16T18:49:58.390" Score="3" ViewCount="1112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing my first true lager with White Labs WLP800 and the krausen won't fall. I'm being somewhat impatient because it's taking up primary space right now. I pitched at 44°f and let it rise to 50°f over the first two days and have kept it there since. It has now been 14 days and the krausen is still about an inch thick and the bubbling has slowed to once every 30 seconds. Also I pitched a decanted 4 liter 2 vial starter and oxygenated the wort really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate taking gravity readings until I'm ready to move to secondary, but is this pace normal for a lager? If so, can I speed it up by bringing up the temperature by 10° or so like a rest, or would it be unnecessary since I have kept it low the whole time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T00:04:17.047" Title="Lager krausen won't fall" Tags="|beer|primary|lager|krausen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6359" CreationDate="2012-02-16T19:07:23.370" Score="3" ViewCount="1779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did an all-grain rye for a mash and pitched with Premier Cuvee yeast (tolerant to 18% abv), 5 grams to 4 gal wort. Repitched it again and the forced fermentation test indicates that the mash is done at 1.030. Any ideas/suggestions? Should I check and adjust the pH if it is below 4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T00:01:51.120" Title="Why an all grain stops at 1.030 when there are an abundance of champagne yeast" Tags="|all-grain|specific-gravity|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6354" CreationDate="2012-02-16T19:11:06.047" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to grind the malted rye to expose the endosperm for gelatinization and &#xA;conversion. Flaked rye has already been gelatinized and can be added to the mash without any pre-processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rye kernel is smaller than barley. I've found that it's best to tighten up your mill a bit to give a good crush. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T14:45:46.177" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T14:45:46.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6355" CreationDate="2012-02-16T19:14:40.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you know this, but impatience and lagers are not a good match! I just did a lager with the same yeast strain, and it took at least two weeks at 50F, 10C for the krausen to fall, and was bubbling for 3 weeks. This pace is pretty normal for a lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would leave it for a few more days, and then raise to 60-64F for a diacetyl rest for 48h before racking to secondary and lagering. You can take a sample from primary before and after the rest, both for the gravity and as a taste comparison. For me, exposure to oxygen is a bigger concern than contamination. When you take a sample before the rest, any oxygen in the headspace will be pushed out as the CO2 expands with the temperature increase, and as more CO2 is produced with increased yeast activity. When racking to secondary, the amount of oxygen expsure is also limited since the next of the carboy is very small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T19:14:40.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6356" CreationDate="2012-02-16T19:46:28.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, this brew is really giving you trouble! The high FG is most likely a problem with the mash, that it was too warm, producing a lot of unfermentable sugars, or that conversion was not complete, resulting in a lot of starch and cloudiness. Both will give you a high finishing gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try to fix this, you can add additional enzymes to break down the unfermentables into fermentables. One common source of enzymes is the dietry suppliment Beano. Another is the product known as Dry Beer Enzyme. The one time I used it, gravity fell from 1.015 to 1.002 - I don't recall the timescales, but at room temperature the enzyme needs a few days or more to break down the sugars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One downside with adding enzymes to the fermentor is that it's difficult to control the final gravity. With hungry champagne yeast, you may end up consuming all the sugars, leading to a very dry and bitter beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Regarding pH, I'd be surprised if your pH is below 4, unless there were lots of highly kilned malts and your water is soft. The optimal pH for fermentation is pH 4.6, although yeast will ferment below pH 4, just slower. In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.no/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=yeast%20optimal%20ph%20fermentation&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=4&amp;amp;ved=0CEwQxQEwAw&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fdocs.google.com%2Fviewer%3Fa%3Dv%26q%3Dcache%3AYp4lIfPWfWQJ%3Awww.pieternieuwland.nl%2FMenu_Items%2FProjecten%2FSymposium%2Fsymposium2009-2010%2FPVH%2Freports%2FPVH1_Maja_Myrthe_R.doc%2Byeast%2Boptimal%2BpH%2Bfermentation%26hl%3Dno%26gl%3Dno%26pid%3Dbl%26srcid%3DADGEESjAz1d8vfP90qfvqnakwjIlsOrHvUF0wKpq1keUh7Ure96LUJtzpUi7UEm1tOWLSccWmJnCNiJH4H5ObZpmZYUcwVKmFp1UIzWtVs-IFYry82YcpzzuSNWCWC1IV83IfdXjUSZH%26sig%3DAHIEtbSjyxAOVqNvuHou1bDRA7lJjbu9nw&amp;amp;ei=r2k9T8m8E_T04QSv3-mnCA&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNFfmHHmjghgtGtdD9iTsPhGtWzNWg&amp;amp;sig2=MspD_auOlRaa6Agl4L02Tw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt;, yeast continue fermenting down to pH 2.8.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-16T20:52:30.037" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T20:52:30.037" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-16T20:12:29.660" Score="6" ViewCount="1390" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Brewing Classic Styles&lt;/em&gt; by Jamil Zainasheff, many of the recipes call for LME.  Often, the amount is 0.5 lbs or similar, particularly of things like Munich extract.  I typically brew all-grain, but my mash tun is currently out-of-commission, so I am doing some extract brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it really possible to use quantities of LME that are less than a full container?  My brew shop only carres 3.3 lb and 33 lb containers.  My (limited) experience with LME suggests that attempting to separate and weigh it would be an exercise in frustration, since LME is hardly liquid, instead resembling a dense gelatin.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these simply not practical recipes for the extract brewer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T18:54:56.173" Title="Weighing Liquid Malt Extract" Tags="|beer|extract|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6360" CreationDate="2012-02-16T20:38:18.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to pour such a viscous liquid is difficult - even more so when you only need a small amount. As you pour, the LME usually doesn't come out until you tilt the bottle up high enough, and then you get a large glob flop out, and you then instinctively lower the bottle, which either stops the flow or at best leaves a small trickle. And the cycle repeats, terminated by a large bottle of LME hurled against the nearest wall...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For small volumes, you can try pouring out what you can manage to get out, and don't worry about overshooting. A large knife can be used to interrupt the flow cleanly. Then warm up the collected LME to 70C/160F - it will flow much better, so you can then easily measure and pour off the excess back into the bottle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sugar concentration of LME is too high for bugs to grow in it, so don't be afraid about returning excess to the container. Although I've read reports of mold growing on top of the LME once the bottle is opened, but I have never seen that myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T18:54:56.173" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T18:54:56.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6360" CreationDate="2012-02-16T20:49:23.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of many reasons that I only use DME. Easy to weigh, easy to store. You can convert a recipe from LME to DME by multiplying the LME weight by 0.85. So if the recipe uses .5 lb of a LME, replace it with .43lb of LME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T20:49:23.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6360" CreationDate="2012-02-16T21:27:45.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Larger/Better homebrew shops will sell you liquid extract in take-away containers in the exact weight that you need. My local shop JUST started doing this, as its not too cheap. First time I ever saw this was on the Alton Brown 'Good Eats' episode on homebrewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect Jamil isn't too concerned about the impracticality of the ingredients, he's just listing the 'perfect' set of ingredients to make the style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T21:27:45.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6353" CreationDate="2012-02-16T22:23:35.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Addressing your sanitation questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coffee:&#xA;One of your questions, paraphrased: Should I worry about secondary infection from coffee in secondary?  I'd say your risk, much like the risk of most things brewing, is not from the water, which you can pre-boil on the stove or in the microwave, or the coffee which will be subject to a pretty high temperature water and would probably have molded if it was contaminated, but from the 'brewing' equipment.  How do you plan to brew the coffee?  If you are going to brew in a sanitized french press and use pre-boiled water (I'd choose that over 'spring' water), what is your concern?  If you are brewing in a machine, I'd be a lot more concerned about contact bacteria on or in the machine like the percolator tips or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cocoa nibs: alcohol might contact sanitize them but remember, sanitizer works by contact.  Anything in the nibs protected by a surface layer could later be exposed.  Again, I don't think this is a significant concern.  If you are concerned, I'd suggested heating the nibs in water to a pasteurization type temperature (160 to 170) rather than boiling them.  Heating them will raise the internal temperature of the nibs as well as the surface temperature but may damage the flavors.  Since people add nibs to the end of the boil, I don't think that is a huge concern.  Sanitation wise boiling them would be the most conservative while alcohol would be the least. Pasteurization might be a happy medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site suggests that alcohol is an adequate sanitizer so pasteurization might be over-kill. It also suggests using alcohol to draw flavors out of the cocoa.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://barleypopmaker.info/2009/12/15/chocolatizing-your-beer/&quot;&gt;http://barleypopmaker.info/2009/12/15/chocolatizing-your-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T22:23:35.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6360" CreationDate="2012-02-16T23:58:02.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you warm up LME it isn't that hard to pour and measure into a container.&#xA;I also recommend not opening the entire top of a can (if that's your source). I recommend warming it up and using the &quot;church key&quot; type opener that pokes those triangular hole into the top of the can.  Just poke two holes into the top of the can on opposite sides (one to pour out and one as a vent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used measure LME that way and it works pretty good.&#xA;I always made it a point to brew again soon though with the opened LME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a little impractical which is LME is good to use in the 3.3lb can increments and make up odd ball gravity point needs with DME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most munich LME I have seen is still a 50/50 mix of munich to base malt, so there seems like you could recalculate for a using some DME in place of the LME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T23:58:02.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6356" CreationDate="2012-02-17T00:01:51.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you did a forced fermentation and it went down to 1.030, then that's it...its over.  You have a process problem and pH or other things aren't the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T00:01:51.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6355" CreationDate="2012-02-17T00:04:17.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds normal to me.  I normally leave my primaries for a month or so.&#xA;Purchase a new primary if its a problem or plan better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T00:04:17.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1999" CreationDate="2012-02-17T00:35:17.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not exactly an answer to your question, but it looks like your out to save a bit of coin.  Check with your local homebrew clubs, many of the locals here have agreements with Midwest or Northern Brewer for club discounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen people selling kettles in on craigslist, and I would imagine to get enough price savings to turn a profit perhaps they approached one of the kettle brands to become a licensed distributor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T00:35:17.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6320" CreationDate="2012-02-17T06:33:56.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer is advice on what to do if you have a 'poor' start (and how to tell):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How was the yeast start?  How many bubbles per 30 seconds on your airlock?  Do you have a good krausen (as mentioned above)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point (2 days in), you should be seeing a bubble every oh 1 to 5 seconds (faster is fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are bubbling slower than that, I recommend you go buy more yeast and 'reinoculate'. You'll be out about $6 or $7.  Get a Wyeast smack pack from the local homebrew store if possible, not dry yeast or White Labs tube (although those are second choices).  While I prefer White Labs when making a start, right now you need a rapid restart.  The Wyeast smack pack (you smack it to activate the yeast) will give you a nice 'start' in the package and hopefully compete well.  Also, unless it is completely off-base style-wise, I'd recommend a nice hardy yeast.  American Ale or California ale are both tough and easy to get going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might just be chucking $6 after the now ruined kit but if you have a strong start, your yeast may outcompete the acetobacteria you probably have in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forgot to 'aerate' (most people do this by sloshing around the container with the airlock off) the beer if you restart.  Aerating later is bad but if you restart the yeast you want to oxygenate the beer to permit yeast reproduction (they need oxygen to reproduce).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T06:33:56.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6316" CreationDate="2012-02-17T07:26:43.100" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two considerations not mentioned thus far:&#xA;1.  pH is important for mashing all-grain.  If your pH is low (either with your softened water or with your tap water), you may experience problems.  To the best of my knowledge, it is high or low pH that causes all-grain brewers to add minerals or RO water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could consider using potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride as your softening salt.  KCl is much more expensive, possibly prohibitively depending on your situation.  KCl is a nutrient for yeast, shouldn't convey a flavor, and won't cause your beer to be salty.  It may affect the pH.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;RO systems have become pretty affordable, relatively speaking.  For about $200, you could setup an RO system for your drinking water under your kitchen sink.  Bear in mind that because an RO system is not 'on-demand' but rather produces clean water via membrane filtration, filling 5g at once will be a slow process.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you should check your pH using some inexpensive strips.  My local homebrew store had these for $4.  Alkalinity can be checked by a pool store or with a pool test kit.  The pH of your soft and hard water will probably determine your strategy more than anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find a guide to each mineral on this blog page by Beersmith.  It has a lot more information on each mineral than in my post or mdma's.  Note one concern regarding carbonate (e.g. calcium carbonate) is the effect on pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/08/24/brewing-water-hard-or-soft/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/08/24/brewing-water-hard-or-soft/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From his page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If carbonate levels are too low, the mash will be too acidic, especially when using&#xA;  darker malts (which have higher acidity).  If carbonate is too high, mash efficiency &#xA;  will suffer.  Recommended levels are 25-50 mg/l for pale beers and 100-300 mg/l for &#xA;  darker beers.    Note that bicarbonates and temporary hardness can be reduced by &#xA;  pre-boiling the water – the precipitate that falls out after boiling is primarily &#xA;  bicarbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastEditorUserId="2083" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T16:30:02.423" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T16:30:02.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-18T06:19:45.573" Score="3" ViewCount="588" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a homebrew today using tap water, and to my horror I realized I forgot to add the campden tablets to neutralize the chloramine.  About 5 years back I made the same stupid mistake, and fermentation never started up, rendering my homebrew a total loss.  Can the chloramine levels be great enough that it actually prevents yeast from taking off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2174" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T17:05:55.303" Title="tap water with chloramine" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-18T09:51:07.150" Score="4" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a hoppy red ale on Tuesday and pitched some washed wyeast 1084 into it that evening. I had an og of 1.070 and went ahead and put a blowoff tube on the fermenting bucket in case I had a huge krausen. I did not see any fermentation bubbles, and later realized that the seal was not as tight as I thought it was between the tube and bucket lid. Today put in a regular airlock and noticed a strange green scaley looking growth on the top of my beer. Is this some sort of contamination? A picture is attatched...!  I'm new to the site so i can't post the picture on here. However, you can check out my HBT post with the pic here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/contamination-whats-305419/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/contamination-whats-305419/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LxX9C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2175" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-18T11:48:21.290" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T13:49:46.867" Title="contamination? what's this?" Tags="|fermentation|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6372" CreationDate="2012-02-18T11:45:46.380" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is normal. It's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-2-2.html&quot;&gt;krausen&lt;/a&gt; - bits of yeast, hop particles and oils, trub and proteins floating on top of the beer - and a sign of healthy fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-2-2.html&quot;&gt;Fermentation&lt;/a&gt;, How to brew, J. Palmer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-18T13:49:46.867" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T13:49:46.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6371" CreationDate="2012-02-18T14:57:14.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably possible, but considering how much yeast is generally pitched, it would probably be unsafe to drink at that level.   I think it's more likely that you'll wind up with off-flavors from chlorine contamination (chlorophenols...   think burned plastic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T14:57:14.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6371" CreationDate="2012-02-18T15:37:16.870" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd brewed dozens of batches before finding out about chloramine and Campden tablets. My beer is better now that I treat my brewing water to remove chloramine, but has always been drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the failure of your previous batch was due of something other than chloramine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T15:37:16.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6378" CreationDate="2012-02-19T15:29:30.707" Score="3" ViewCount="3201" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making a batch and for the first time the recipe calls for a whirfloc tablet. From what I understand the tablet assists with settling the haze produced by proteins. I've read a half tablet to 5 gals. What is the expected shelf life? And is this something I should throw in on every batch I make in the future? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1989" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T00:54:10.030" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T00:54:10.030" Title="Whirfloc shelf life and use" Tags="|wort|finings|shelf-life|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6376" CreationDate="2012-02-19T16:37:46.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've kept Whirlfloc for nearly a year and it was still fine.  I don't see why you couldn't keep it even longer. Although some people say you don't need it for dark beers, I disagree.  Even in a very dark beer you can see it it's clear or not.  I use it in every batch.  I don't think it's a deal breaker if you don't use it, but based on the times I've forgotten it, I do think it promotes better clearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T16:37:46.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6376" CreationDate="2012-02-19T18:54:31.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use whirlfloc in pretty much every brew apart from some wheats where the protein haze is part of the style. Shelf life is about 2 years (see below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though the recipe calls for whirlfloc, you can use either whirlfloc or irish moss, both are kettle finings and contain the same active ingredient - kapa-carrageenan (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrageenan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; lists other types and surprising uses.) I do 10 gallons mostly, so 1 whirlfloc tablet is the right dosage. When doing 5 gallons, I prefer the moss, since 1/2 tsp is easier to get than having to mess about with cutting whirlfloc tablets in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Irish moss has a shelf life of several years. (See related question &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6039/does-irish-moss-expire&quot;&gt;Does Irish Moss Expire?&lt;/a&gt;). Given that whirlfloc is powdered, with a greater surface area, the shelf life can be expected to be reduced. I can't find the actual MSDS, but a reference is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingkb.com/homebrewing/Whirlfloc-vs-Irish-Moss-1791.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In unopened original Kerry Bio-Science packaging, WHIRLFLOC BWS has a&#xA;  shelf-life of 24 months from date of manufacture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's describing the sand-like powered form of whirlfloc. The compressed tablets I would guess kept in an opened, but airtight bag, would last about as long (tablet form reduces surface area, increasing shelf life, but the opened bag counter-acting that.) So, 2 years shelf-life seems reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(fwiw, I've just ordered a bag of 25 - I brew once a month, so that's a 2 year supply.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Here's a picture of how clear the wort will be after a good boil and kettle finings.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/81yxt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T08:49:34.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6381" CreationDate="2012-02-19T22:32:50.507" Score="7" ViewCount="1460" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to kegging, but I was made aware that I shouldn't use sodium metabisulfite when cleaning a keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what cleaners can I use?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;More specifically, can I use OxyClean or Diversol?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T08:48:14.573" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T20:03:06.373" Title="What cleaners can I use for Kegs?" Tags="|kegging|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6380" CreationDate="2012-02-19T22:50:37.040" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxyclean is a good cleaner, and you can use that on kegs. Diversol on the other hand is a bleaching product (chlorine-based), and like sodium metabisulfate that you were warned not to use will corrode the kegs if left too long. (EDIT: just to clarify, Oxyclean's active ingredient is sodium percarbonate, and this is safe to use. Sodium metabisulfate, mentioned in the original question, is not safe to use as it's corrosive.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as oxyclean, I recommend PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash) - it's very good at getting underneath any organic material and lifting it off the surface and keeping it suspended in the water. You can clean 4-5 kegs with the same batch of PBW - I've not had the same reusability with oxyclean. Both oxyclean and pbw are non-corrosive and it's safe to leave kegs soaking overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before cleaning a used keg, fill with half a gallon of warm water, swirl a little and leave for 15 mins. (Use warm, but not hot water - it can melt the glue that holds the rubber handles in place.) This brief soak will remove most of the gunk (yeast, trub) that's stuck to the bottom. The keg will then be much cleaner already, and more kegs can be cleaned in the same PBW solution before it becomes too soiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T20:03:06.373" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T20:03:06.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6289" CreationDate="2012-02-20T09:10:39.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.morebeer.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&amp;amp;t=38266#p400991&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;comment&lt;/a&gt; in a newsgroup about the B3 buckets&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have 1 and the lid does not seal. I have since bought a gamma seal&#xA;  lid that spins off. it is very air tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems they do fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's simplicity itself that the mouths of buckets are all the same size. I don't think that's how it is here in Europe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T09:10:39.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6350" CreationDate="2012-02-20T12:56:43.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For lagers, temperature control is critical for the first week or two. Some lager yeasts have a fairly narrow band of fermentation temperatures ca. 10 degrees F/5 degrees C - going too high will produce a fruity lager, too low can stall the ferment, so the temperature controller is needed to help fix the temperature and avoid swings that will negatively affect the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A diacetyl rest is needed by most lager strains after primary - storing the beer for 24-48 hours at 62-68 F facilitates this (depending on yeast strain.) After that, cold lagering for several weeks, between 34F/1C and 43F/6C is typical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature of the the diacetyl rest and lagering is less critical than primary ferment, so you can avoid using the temperature controller if you have an area where you can put the fermententor that is at a suitable temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T12:56:43.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3230" CreationDate="2012-02-20T17:02:35.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pro would be if your doing a split brew. I'm going to try a split brown and robust porter and eventually try a brown and a dry stout. So when doing a split brew I'm going to start with a brown. Split half into a carboy to ferment and then steep extra carafa/roast barley in the remainder to create the other half of the split. At least that's the plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2181" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T17:02:35.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1999" CreationDate="2012-02-20T18:00:07.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only reason you would want to do this (I imagine) would be if you want to start a homebrew store. If this is the case, I would suggest contacting the manufacturers directly and ask for wholesale pricing. They will at least be able to point you to a wholesaler if they don't sell directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T18:00:07.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-20T19:02:42.690" Score="8" ViewCount="20341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making mead for the first time using honey from my hives. It has been going for 3-4 weeks and I'm not sure if it's time to rack it. The fermenting has been slow, which I think might be due to the coldish (60 degree) temperature in my house. I didn't heat the honey and it settled to the bottom of the carboy almost immediately. There is some bubbling doing on, a gurgle about every 10-20 seconds, but it never got more than that. At this point, all the settled honey appears to have been eaten by the yeast and now it's all a uniform color. However, there is no head on top and no sediment on the bottom of the carboy. Should I keep it going in this carboy for a while? This is my first time home brewing of any kind, so I'm a little unsure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2182" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T01:18:17.600" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T21:14:49.093" Title="When should I rack my mead?" Tags="|mead|racking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6389" CreationDate="2012-02-20T19:45:55.993" Score="2" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've had my breakfast stout in the primary for 16 days and I'm going to transfer it to my secondary tomorrow. The gravity is stable and its ready to move. I'm cold pressing some kona coffee tonight and I have some cocoa nibs that I'm adding as well. It tastes fantastic already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering what is the best way to age it.&#xA;I know this recipe takes some time to age with the amount of chocolate and coffee used in it. &#xA;But, I'm not sure which is the better way to go. Do I leave it in the secondary for 2 weeks and then age it in the bottle or do I leave it in the secondary for a at least a month to age and then bottle?&#xA;I'm just worried that if I leave it in the secondary to long there may not be enough yeast in suspension to bottle condition later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2021" LastEditorUserId="2021" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T20:05:06.103" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T20:37:55.423" Title="Aging Breakfast Stout Clone" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|secondary|aging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6387" CreationDate="2012-02-20T20:37:55.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any room temperature aging done in the carboy for less than 6 months or so will &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; affect your bottling viability by very much. There will still be plenty of yeast left in suspension for bottling purposes. Plenty of people bottle lagers after 2-3 months of lagering (32F) and don't have to wait more than 2-3 weeks for the bottles to carbonate. What's the ABV of the brew? I'd only worry about bottling after a long secondary if my ABV was 8% or greater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T20:37:55.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3230" CreationDate="2012-02-20T22:30:39.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do sometimes leave some of the grains out of the mash and steep them separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? My water has a quite low pH to begin with, and adding too many dark grains during the mash can acidify the mash too much, forcing me to use Calcium Carbonate (Chalk) or Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) to bring the pH back up to the ideal mash range (~5.2 - 5.5 pH).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is my rule of thumb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any grain that is 100 SRM or darker and does not need to be mashed gets steeped unless it's a very small percent of the grain bill (for a 5 gallon batch, I'll put as much as 4 oz in, but beyond that, I'm probably steeping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, that means Crystal/Caramel malts, Chocolate Malts, Roasted Barley, and other dark roasted malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason you might consider steeping darker grains if your water's pH is fairly normal is that you can more carefully control the extraction of tannin/astringency from those dark grains by steeping for a shorter period of time or even cold steeping them overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want more a more in-depth answer, here's an excerpt on my post about mashing sweet stout on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madalchemist.com/archives/mashing-the-perfect-sweet-stout/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my website, Mad Alchemist&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Don’t mash your roasted-and-kilned grains (e.g. chocolate and black&#xA;  malts). Roasted grains will drive the pH down considerably, so it’s&#xA;  difficult to keep the pH high no matter what fancy solution you use&#xA;  during the mash. Roasted grains have the wonderful benefit of not&#xA;  needing to be mashed. So, the best solution, in my opinion, is to mash&#xA;  everything except for your roasted grains in your MLT, and steep your&#xA;  roasted grains in a separate vessel (below 170 F) simultaneously at&#xA;  around 2 quarts per pound. Then, combine the wort created by the&#xA;  roasted grains with the mashed wort in the brew kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you don’t want to steep the grains, you can essentially brew a&#xA;  coffee with the dark grains with either a more traditional method&#xA;  (heat) or you can cold brew it overnight to really avoid the&#xA;  astringency as much as possible… it’ll just take longer. If you cold&#xA;  brew, you should probably bring the temperature of the concoction to&#xA;  170 F after removing the grain to pasteurize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then, you can add the coffee-like brew whenever you want (start of the&#xA;  boil, end of the boil, directly in the fermentation vessel, even just&#xA;  before bottling). All will impart different character, so experiment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that you might not get full extraction from all roasted grains&#xA;  when steeping. According to some experiments run by John Palmer, it&#xA;  looks like Black Patent and Roasted Barley are some of the only&#xA;  roasted malts that have the same yield as mashing when steeped. As&#xA;  such, you might only exclude those from your sweet stout mash, or you&#xA;  can increase the amount of other grains accordingly (e.g. multiply the&#xA;  ounces of Chocolate Malt you use by ~1.5-1.6 to make up for the&#xA;  difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would not recommend sparging with the roasted wort, in part because&#xA;  you’re going to impact the sparge pH pretty significantly, and in part&#xA;  because you’re going to leave some of your flavors behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hitting the ideal concentrations of all ions in the brewing water as&#xA;  well as the ideal pH is very easy when you leave out your roasted&#xA;  malts (and any other malts that don’t need to be mashed, such as&#xA;  caramel/crystal). By steeping the roasted malts (and, optionally, your&#xA;  crystal malts) separate from the mash, you might end up with a much&#xA;  better sweet stout in the end. As someone commented, you could also&#xA;  steep the grains in a bag while you transfer to the boil kettle from&#xA;  your MLT, which sounds like a great idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T22:30:39.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6350" CreationDate="2012-02-20T22:40:07.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that controlling temperature is most vital when the fermentation begins to slow down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start your temperature on the low end and allow it to rise naturally, that works well until the yeast stop fermenting so vigorously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When fermentation slows, the heat starts to drop. When the heat starts to drop, the yeast start to go to sleep. This can be bad if they aren't done cleaning everything up, so I try to make sure the temperature doesn't ever drop until at least a week into fermentation (generally a few days beyond the point that fermentation started to slow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is an oversimplification. In general, &quot;the entire time it's fermenting&quot; is the best time to temperature control and you'd be better off serving at a different temperature than wrecking your fermenting beer by accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T22:40:07.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6386" CreationDate="2012-02-20T23:48:35.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;3-6 weeks is the usual time to do the first rack of a mead, but it's best to check with a gravity measurement first. Gravity should be around 1/3 the starting gravity, and some of the yeast should have flocculated on the bottom of the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't add any yeast nutrients to the mead, then fermentation will go slower as the yeast have a harder time propagating up to the numbers required. Also, 60F is on the cold side, for some mead yeast strains, which will also slow things down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing you don't have any sediment yet, I'd wait a couple of weeks before racking, especially since it's fermenting quite cold. The amount of krausen with mead can vary dramatically from next to nothing to overflowing, even with the same yeast strain, so don't worry that there is no &quot;head&quot;. But before racking, check with a gravity reading first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is your first brew, over the next couple of weeks, try to take time to search and read up online about the processes around mead making. Topics like, good racking procedures (avoid oyxgen), when to do the second transfer, when to add sodium metabisulfite or ascorbic acid, when to bottle and how long to age for. This will give you a feeling for what is typical practice, and you'll feel a lot more confident with the rest of the brew! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T23:57:54.227" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T23:57:54.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6404" CreationDate="2012-02-21T01:09:36.087" Score="5" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many online references, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/7-aeration/1949-aerating-wort-techniques&quot;&gt;BYO&lt;/a&gt;, mention that oxygen is needed by yeast to reproduce, and that a wort with low dissolved oxygen levels will have longer lag times and less attenuation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be a daft question, but why not simply pitch enough viable yeast to begin with so reproduction is not needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T01:19:14.243" Title="oxygen and yeast pitching rates" Tags="|yeast|aeration|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6395" CreationDate="2012-02-21T01:21:26.493" Score="2" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just entered a contest at a local pub. We are given 5 gallons of finished wort and then we have to finish the brew and bring it back to be judged after fermentation and bottling . We have to pitch the yeast or dry hop or whatever we want. The wort is an american pale ale. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T04:06:44.517" Title="Wort transformation" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2012-02-21T13:14:54.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6394" CreationDate="2012-02-21T04:06:44.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who's doing the judging? Professional brewers? BJCP judges? The drinking public?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention anything about the specifics of the wort. What follows assumes that the wort is pale to golden, mildly hopped, and mashed for medium body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your beer is going to be judged by regular folk, I'd brew a regular beer. Ferment the wort with WYeast 1056 at 60 F. Dry hop with an ounce or two of cascade and cold condition for a month. This will produce a clean American pale ale with a citrusy hop aroma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're being judged by beer aficionados, you could try something a bit more distinctive. Lots of options here, but a Belgian pale ale might be just the thing. Boil 1 lb of table sugar in a quart of the wort. Cool, and add back to the wort. Ferment with WY3787 at warmish temperatures: upper 60's or low 70's. The sugar will add alcohol and lower the body. The yeast will provide Belgian character: fruity esters and some spice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck. I wish one of my local brew pubs would stage a contest like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T04:06:44.517" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6393" CreationDate="2012-02-21T13:49:56.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm with you on this. For my very first lager, I was really concerned about underpitching. Fortunately, I had a friend working at a brewery bring me about a half cup of creamy white, pure, active lager yeast (S-189) taken from a primary. I stepped it up with a fresh half gallon of wort before pitching. I didn't oxygenate at all beside the usual carboy shaking, and yet I had a full krausen formed on that beer when I awoke 6 hours after pitching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that it's just kinda hard to always grow up yeast cultures that big. There's room for infection and error every time you touch yeast (from washing &amp;amp; collecting, to making starters &amp;amp; stepping them up). Its simpler for me to pitch my standard 2 Packets of W-34/70 into my lagers now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yeah, I agree with you. If you can consistently build up massive slurries, then you can find other things to worry about besides oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T13:49:56.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="88" CreationDate="2012-02-21T16:05:33.707" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use a non-transparent plastic bucket or carboy for your primary, moving it to a transparent plastic or glass carboy allows you to see the clarity of the beer before bottling.  You will be able to bottle your beer when the desired clarity is reached.  In most cases, moving to a secondary is purely cosmetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2188" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T16:05:33.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6386" CreationDate="2012-02-21T17:44:07.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd let it keep going until you see that some sediment has accumulated on the bottom of the carboy. The purpose of racking is to remove the wine or mead from the lees (sediment) so if there is little to none then you're not going to gain much of anything by racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T17:44:07.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-21T18:30:02.500" Score="4" ViewCount="2399" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, I'm new to kegging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a mistake and added my dry hop pellets straight into the keg (I should have used a bag or something, I know)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I believe the problem is that the pellets have clogged up the dip tube. The beer doesn't come out, despite there being pressure, and what does come out is incredibly cloudy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T00:39:50.703" Title="Dry hopped pellets in a keg without bag" Tags="|kegging|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6399" CreationDate="2012-02-21T18:57:33.663" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can unclog the diptube in place, but it'll just clog right up again.  I'd say your best bet is to siphon the beer to another keg, trying to leave as much sediment behind as possible.  I would also stick the keg in your fridge for a few days to help coax the hops and proteins to the bottom of the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's your only keg, siphon to a sanitized carboy/bucket, take the keg apart and clean it thoroughly, then re-sanitize and siphon the beer back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've never taken apart a keg, I've made some videos on how I work with Cornelius kegs.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhVeooxHjo0&quot;&gt;Anatomy of a corny keg&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFmFbAWLmrY&quot;&gt;Disassembly and Cleaning&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFor3QCWCuo&quot;&gt;How I rack beer to a keg&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T18:57:33.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6399" CreationDate="2012-02-21T19:41:43.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Joe's answer is great and I would rack to a new keg if all else fails. There's something simple to try first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bleed off almost all the CO2 in the keg then blow out any hop material in the beer dip tube by connecting the CO2 tank to the beer out line. (You can put the CO2 connector to the beer out post on corny/firestone kegs, don't know about pin lock kegs.) Turn the pressure up until you hear the tube clear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use gelatin finings (if you're not adverse to that) to clear the beer and keep the hops at the bottom of the keg. It's important not to move the keg after the gelatin has settled, so put the keg in it's final serving place after adding the gelatin. Leave for 5 days.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bleed off most of the CO2 again, and pour a half pint or two. Use minimal dispensing pressure so not to pick up any loose hop particles. With successive pints you can increase the CO2 pressure.  You should notice each successive glass becomes clearer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't 100% guaranteed, but pretty simple, especially if you don't have a spare keg to rack into. Even if you do have a spare, you still get the benefit of a clearer beer. Over time, the hops will give the beer a very strong grassy taste if left in, so the gelatin is helping out here also. (I've left 1/2oz of hops in a bag at the bottom of a keg - initially the flavor was great, but after a month the overpowering grassy taste made the beer undrinkable without diluting with something else.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In future, as well as using a bag, tie a string to it so you can pull it out after a week or so. The string can be tied to either the gas dip tube, or simply hanging out the top of the lid - wedged between the O-ring and the keg mouth. If the string is thin it won't affect the seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T00:39:50.703" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T00:39:50.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-21T23:10:38.630" Score="3" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my second attempt at home brewing, my first came out very well.  I added a couple of pounds of strawberries to my primary.  After one month a racked to my secondary.  I was not expecting to see such nasty looking strawberries.  Most of it was clearly eaten bu the Yeast but the ones that remained were grey in color.  To be safe I was extra conservative when racking and left a good inch and change at the bottom in order to take as little of the solids as possible.  The beer in the secondary looks fine, a little cloudy but I expect that to settle.  Has anyone ever done this before and had a similar experience?  I want to make sure it is safe to drink etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2190" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T21:45:49.723" Title="Strawberry Blond" Tags="|beer|fruit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6402" CreationDate="2012-02-22T01:07:09.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer does tend to bleach out the strawberries, its perfectly normal.&#xA;I make strawberry blond the same way every summer.  The berries come out pretty scary sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T01:07:09.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6393" CreationDate="2012-02-22T01:19:14.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well the reality is that you need some yeast growth to generate the proper flavor profiles with most all ale yeasts.  If you underpitch any given ale yeast vs. super overpitching the ester profiles or main flavor characteristics change significantly.  There is an interesting line to be drawn between how much growth and how much esters (etc) however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of lagers I am sure maybe you can pitch without worrying about growth, but I think a little growth helps those strains get going and be super clean, where as weak lager yeast tends to put out a little too much sulphur or doesn't have enough &quot;oompf&quot; to clean up diacetyl etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T01:19:14.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6409" CreationDate="2012-02-22T09:36:07.883" Score="6" ViewCount="38304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a black stout fermenting right now.  I added about 8oz of cacao powder in the boil and I'd like to add some vanilla extract, to taste.  Can this be done before bottling? Should this have been added in the boil (for future reference)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2185" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T18:54:30.690" Title="Adding Vanilla Extract?" Tags="|techniques|flavor|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6405" CreationDate="2012-02-22T12:20:26.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have added flavoring extracts to several beers.  I always do it at bottling/kegging time.  My advice with extracts is to err to the side of using less.  One beer in particular turned out to be almost undrinkable with an overwhelming extract flavor.  Do you have a pipette or other accurate method of measurement?  Make sure to use it, and write down how much extract you used for future reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T12:20:26.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6289" CreationDate="2012-02-22T12:57:53.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you read this page:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bayteccontainers.com/gama-seal-lid-white.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bayteccontainers.com/gama-seal-lid-white.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has the following information: &quot;Fits 3½,5 &amp;amp; 6 Gallon Buckets&quot; and &quot;THE GAMMA SEAL LID FITS STANDARD 12&quot; DIAMETER PLASTIC PAILS.&quot;  and &quot;AIRTIGHT Reseals Your Bucket or Pail Easy Opening Lid Fits All Universally Used 12&quot; Opening Pails and Buckets&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would say if your pail is 12&quot; in diameter you are probably safe here.  They seem to be designed to be pretty universal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T12:57:53.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6464" CreationDate="2012-02-22T18:47:45.190" Score="4" ViewCount="1161" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a cream ale (OG ~1.059) that has been fermenting at the low end of US-05's range (57-59 degrees) for just about two weeks.  Didn't test gravity, but still saw a decent krausen ring and airlock activity.  Recently got a chest freezer, temp controller, and brewpad (for heating), and moved it into that at 72 degrees.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation did seem to be slowing (first couple days had a minor blow-off), but I wasn't sure if I moved it there too late.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also have a saison that has shown airlock activity for 4 WEEKS (WL 565/saison II), and was thinking of moving that into the chamber as well to finish that mother out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a week diacetyl rest too long (I believe there is another thread indicating 'no'), and can I simply move my saison into the chest as well to finish it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: My motivation for raising the fermentation temp was more to allow the yeast to finish fermentation (they seemed a bit sluggish at 57 degrees fermenter temp in my basement).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-02-22T21:00:42.253" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T19:54:24.320" Title="Diacetyl Rest on Cream Ale" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|diacetyl-rest|saison|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6405" CreationDate="2012-02-22T18:51:37.383" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;DorkRawk,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some 'adjuncts' (vanilla, coffee, juniper, other alcohols) can be added to the end of the boil but I would say most adjuncts should be separately sanitized, pastuerized, or boiled and then added to secondary after transfer from primary rather than added to the end of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vanilla extract in particular would experience significant boil-off if added to the boil.  It is ~35% alcohol.  If you are adding vanilla beans, that's a different story.  You need to find another way to sanitize vanilla beans (I'd suggest crush them and mix with vodka).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are adding something that is ~30%+ in alcohol content, you probably don't need to sanitize or boil it.  That percentage of alcohol should stay bacteria free on its own.  That's why that bottle of rum that you opened in 2005 hasn't molded or gone bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are adding an adjunct that is not alcoholic, you should consider using a method to sanitize it.  Your choices, from most conservative (safe) to least conservative: boil for 5 or 10 minutes; pasteurize (place in heated water @ ~160F) for 5 to 10 minutes; soak in vodka prior to addition (overnight is my rule of thumb); spray with sanitizer (I don't like this option).  You kind of have to decide how 'dirty' the object is, whether it is going to be crushed up before going into the boil, etc. to decide what is right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently added 3T of pure vanilla to a stout.  It isn't ready so I can't tell you how that amount worked out in the final product.  However, we recently sampled the secondary and found the vanilla pleasant and not overpowering.  I found ~2.5T (tablespoons not teaspoons) as a suggested amount from several websites. YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of my rules of thumb:&#xA;Alcohols: vanilla, grand mariner, rum, bourbon.  Don't boil them or pasteurize them!  Add them as is, preferably from sanitary containers.  If you are paranoid, you can sanitize the lip of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oak chips: soak overnight in vodka.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honey: pasteurize @ 160F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fruit is whole 'nother question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastEditorUserId="2083" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T18:50:37.503" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T18:50:37.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6413" CreationDate="2012-02-22T18:59:14.003" Score="4" ViewCount="10290" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I bottled a batch and realized that I lost a significant volume from the boil size. In the primary, I filled my 6 gallon carboy, and after the trub lost in primary and secondary, I bottled just under 5 gallons of beer. Which means, I lost an average of 0.5 gallons per fermentation stage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyway to estimate the volume lost other than by empirical methods? Does the OG, FG, or type of yeast play a predictable role in this? Would I have lost the same volume had I not transferred to secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this is a normal loss, this is purely a question of curiosity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;some numbers, if they help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vol in primary: 6gal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vol in secondary: ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vol bottled: 4.83gal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG/FG: 1.054/1.012&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yeast: US-05&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1448" LastEditorUserId="1448" LastEditDate="2012-02-22T19:15:16.683" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T05:54:36.757" Title="Is there a good way to estimate/calculate volume lost in fermentation(s)?" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6410" CreationDate="2012-02-22T19:18:02.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of a universal rule -- everyone's setup is just too different. The best approach is probably to track, as best you can, how much beer you have at each stage. After doing this for several batches you'll have a good estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with the estimate in hand, your loss is going to vary from batch to batch. A high-gravity beer will have more fermenter trub than a low-gravity beer, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I'd guess that you would not have lost as much if you hadn't moved to secondary. Every racking leads to loss somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T19:18:02.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6410" CreationDate="2012-02-22T20:04:51.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think common wisdom is to shoot for at least half a gallon more post boil per 5 gallon batch to account for losses. I add one gallon, so I brew 6 gallons to package 5, or 12 gallons post boil to package 10 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to work out something for your system if you brew the same beer over and over, but doing this for continually varying brews will require a lot of effort - there are many variables to track, and it's not something that's been widely documented, since it varies so much from system to system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you made meticulous logs and came up with a theory to accurately account for boil (hop absorbtion) and fermentor losses (trub, racking, dry hopping absorbtion, hydrometer samples), you might be able to get some reasonable figures. IMHO, a lot of effort for saving half a gallon of beer per 5 gallon batch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding hop losses, dry hops absorb at least 4 times their own weight of wort. That's the only figure I can think of that might help you account for some of the losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T20:04:51.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6410" CreationDate="2012-02-22T20:38:37.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best approach is to take a lot of measurements of your equipment and of actual volumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the amount of water you put into your HLT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure remaining water in HLT after 'empties' after sparging (for instance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the pre-boil volume in your boil kettle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the post-boil volume in your boil kettle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure remaining trub from your boil kettle (just pour it into a kitchen measuring cup, and if you bag your hops, toss the bag in there too!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the volume in your primary fermentation vessel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the volume of the trub/yeast from primary (again, measuring cup)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the volume in your secondary fermentation vessel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the volume of the trub/yeast from secondary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the volume that gets into bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between 1 and 2 is the dead space in your HLT.  1 minus both 2 and 3 tells you water absorbed by grain and dead space in your MLT.  5 tells you loss to BK trub.  Loss to cooling shrinkage will be 4 - 6 - 5. The rest are pretty obvious.  What I have done is very carefully mark a pitcher with exactly a gallon, then use that to make marks on my tuns and vessels.  It's pretty easy to see 1/4 gallon differences, even 1/8 gallon differences.  For the containers with vertical sides, I've calculated how many centemeters is a gallon, and so you might find in my brewing log (4 + 13/17) gallons noted, for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have these values, they should be good for beers with the same or similar amount of hops; styles with more hops would likely loose more in the boil and fermentation (if dry hopping).  If you kept track of hop usage over several batches with varying hop weights, you could probably come up with a formula to adjust for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-02-22T21:48:36.660" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T21:48:36.660" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6408" CreationDate="2012-02-22T20:48:13.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO, a week isn't too long.  But I question whether you actually need a d rest.  Can you taste diacetyl?  If not, you don't need the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T20:48:13.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-22T20:49:57.080" Score="0" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that hop pellets and plugs are essentially just hops that are grinded and pressure molded.  Given the amount of nuisance that whole hops have given me (clogged siphon hoses, yeast washing/rinsing, lost volume) would it ever be advisable to grind them up in a food processor/Vitamix?  I could envision one of the problems being that some of the essential oils would 'stick'to the sides of the blender/food processor.  I just have a ton of whole hops in my freezer and am getting tired of some of these problems that don't exist as much with pellets.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T21:48:16.223" Title="&quot;Self-Processing&quot; Hops" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6418" CreationDate="2012-02-22T20:50:01.053" Score="4" ViewCount="7483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been advised to pitch an alcohol tolerant yeast &quot;at high krausen&quot; into a barley wine where the fermentation has slowed (OG 1.101, now 1.035).  But if I've got it on a stir plate, how do I know when high krausen is?  I suppose I could turn-off the stir plate every so often and let it sit for some time and see how thick the krausen gets.  But I didn't know if that was a good idea and what those intervals should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T17:22:15.833" Title="How do I know when a starter has hit 'high krausen', when using a stir plate" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|high-gravity|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6410" CreationDate="2012-02-22T20:50:39.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try marking the carboy with known volumes. I ferment in a 5L jug and I measured and added 0.5L of water at a time and marked on the jar with a marker where the water level was. It's not precise enough to be used in a lab, but it's good enough to help make a good estimate for how many bottles I'll need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T20:50:39.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6416" CreationDate="2012-02-22T21:24:44.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to know when the yeast has hit high krausen, since the constant stirring prevents a krausen from forming, but with a starter, in many ways, you don't really need to know....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea behind pitching at high krausen is to pitch actively fermenting yeast. With good yeast stock, after about 18-24h your starter will be actively fermenting, and will have gone through several reproduction cycles (3-8 hours each), so the cell count will have been bumped up and viable cells will be in solution. You can pitch, knowing that viability is good and that the yeast are actively fermenting, even though you don't have any visible signs of fermentation. A quick test to show that the yeast have been active is to take the flask off the stirplate and swirl it - you should see lots of CO2 bubbles coming out of solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before pitching, you may want to turn off the stirplate and leave the yeast to settle for 30-45 mins. Then you might see the start of a krausen ring form. Also, the dead or inactive yeast cells and trub will sink to the bottom, leaving the active yeast in suspension in the wort, which you pitch, leaving the trub and lazy yeast behind. (Note that this is opposite to when you let the starter ferment out - then you decant and discard the solution, leaving just the yeast slurry at the bottom. We don't do that here since we want only the most vital and viable cells.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-26T17:22:15.833" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T17:22:15.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6177" CreationDate="2012-02-22T21:29:47.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To specifically answer your question &quot;has anyone had this long of a growth phase with this yeast?&quot;, the answer is &quot;yes&quot;.  It was a while back but I recall comments about how the French (yeast) had an attitude, and they'd eat whenever it damn well pleased them, and no sooner.  I'm not sure what you call yeast like that, but my experience includes a saison that did dribble along for quite longer than expected.  Turned out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T21:29:47.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6402" CreationDate="2012-02-22T21:45:49.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let us know how this turns out.  In Radical Brewing, Mosher says that strawberries rarely live up to their promise of beautiful fresh aromatics and perfect balance of sweet/tart when added to beer.  Pick up a beer thief though, or sanitize a turkey baster.  The only way to ever know if fermentation is completed (or if your beer is ruined, aside from a bacterial pellicle) is to check gravity (and taste afterwards!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T21:45:49.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6415" CreationDate="2012-02-22T21:48:16.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is one of those things you just have to try out on some old hops. A coffee bean grinder might work better if grinding dry. Even if oils do come out, just use a spatula to scoop up all the hops and oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing this on brew day, you can use a blender/food processor with a little cooled wort from the first runoff to create a hop-paste. Use a spatula and then more wort to get all the hops out the equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T21:48:16.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5447" CreationDate="2012-02-22T23:54:17.117" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I eventually got around to it, kept it very simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.5L water&#xA;0.667 kg &quot;Organic raw blue&quot; agave nectar (I was looking for &quot;dark&quot; for a stronger flavour, but they didn't have any)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring the water to a boil, and leave it there about 20 minutes to sterilize it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let water cool to about 40-45C (the label on the agave nectar bottle suggested that the pasteurisation temperature was about 47C).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add agave nectar. It dissolves very easily into water and does not form a scum on the surface in the same way that honey does.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool to a good pitching temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer to fermentation vessel and add yeast (Lalvin EC-1118, a champagne yeast).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starting specific gravity was 1.050. I ended with 1.004 (for a final alcohol content of about 6.0%), but it took 17 days to get there! And then about 5 days in the fridge waiting for the sediment to settle to the bottom (it was weird, most of the time the top 3rd of the jar was clear and the rest was murky, and then overnight the whole thing suddenly clarified). It's now had about 2 weeks since bottling just sitting in the fridge (this all started in mid-January).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what's it like? The colour is a very nice, bright, and cheerful yellow. Very clear, not murky at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The taste is not sweet at all, a tiny bit bitter, in fact. There's a bit of a faint tang to it, one friend commented it was a very mild tequila-like taste (I am not sure about this, but I don't drink much tequila so maybe I just can't tell). It's also quite dry, but I don't notice that aspect of it until a few seconds after I've swallowed it. There's also a sort of an &quot;earthy&quot; after-taste - not the best way to describe it but I am not sure what other word would work better (maybe that's the &quot;tequila-like&quot; flavour?). It's a smooth flavour, nothing harsh about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, it's nice. On its own, agave nectar ferments to a very mild flavour. If I were to do it again, I think some flavours would need to be added to it, possibly citrus, to make it a bit more interesting. It's been suggested that this stuff might go nicely in mixed drinks with something sweeter, but I'm fine just drinking it straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I consider the experiment a success! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T23:54:17.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6424" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-23T00:45:02.117" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T00:45:02.117" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T00:45:02.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6425" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-23T00:45:02.117" Score="0" Body="A stuck fermentation is when the yeast stop fermenting early, leaving the final gravity reached considerably above the expected final gravity. Can be caused by temperature swings, poor yeast condition or using a strain with insufficient alcohol tolerance." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T03:32:27.787" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T03:32:27.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6427" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-23T00:52:54.370" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T00:52:54.370" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T00:52:54.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6428" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-23T00:52:54.370" Score="0" Body="The introduction of unwanted organisms or chemicals into the beer. Typically, this refers to unwanted bacteria or wild yeast propagating to levels to cause spoilage of the beer. Often incorrectly called an &quot;infection&quot;." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T03:31:21.813" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T03:31:21.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6429" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-23T00:57:31.260" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T00:57:31.260" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T00:57:31.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6430" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-23T00:57:31.260" Score="0" Body="Introducing air into the wort to increase the amount of dissolved oxygen." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T03:31:06.587" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T03:31:06.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6431" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-23T00:59:02.600" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T00:59:02.600" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T00:59:02.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6432" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-23T00:59:02.600" Score="0" Body="Introducing pure oxygen into the wort to increase the level of dissolved oxygen. More effective than aeration." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T03:32:01.157" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T03:32:01.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6433" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-23T01:07:36.847" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T01:07:36.847" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T01:07:36.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6434" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-23T01:07:36.847" Score="0" Body="Transferring wort or beer from one vessel to another via a siphon, often with a rigid tube - a &quot;racking cane&quot; - to help avoid transferring sediment." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T03:32:15.663" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T03:32:15.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6435" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-23T01:15:37.883" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T01:15:37.883" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T01:15:37.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6436" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-23T01:15:37.883" Score="0" Body="H2O - dihydrogen oxide, hydrogen hydroxide. Comprises over 90% of most beers.  Termed &quot;liquor&quot; when used in the brewing process." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T03:32:38.300" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T03:32:38.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6437" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-23T01:26:48.087" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T01:26:48.087" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T01:26:48.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6438" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-23T01:26:48.087" Score="0" Body="A style of beer that is fermented with a bottom-fermenting yeast at low temperatures, with extended cold conditioning." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T03:31:32.513" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T03:31:32.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6440" CreationDate="2012-02-23T11:59:50.900" Score="6" ViewCount="3767" Body="&lt;p&gt;Second-time brewer (to be).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I did my first kit brew, I didn't want to mess anything up, and the instructions I was following told me to avoid the yeast sachet taped to the top of the LME can and get a reasonable, brand-name yeast that you can be confident is going to work well (it did); I got an 11g sachet of Safale S-04.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I only have a 11L carboy, so I only needed about half the sachet for my first brew.  Next, I'm going to do a 9L brew, so I only need about the same amount of yeast again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question is -- does it make a difference at all if the yeast packet is opened?  After I opened it, I folded it over and it's been sitting on my (cool) kitchen counter for the past 6 weeks (doh, I should have put it in the fridge, yes, I know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just pitch it in the trash, or pitch it in the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2012" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T23:01:50.370" Title="Can ale yeast be used weeks after it's opened (Safale S-04)?" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6439" CreationDate="2012-02-23T13:18:53.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry yeast will be fine at room temperature for a short period. However, I'd be concerned about pitching rates and contamination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you weigh out the yeast before, so that you pitched 5-6g? If you only eyeballed it, then it might we way off, since pouring a quantity from the sachet is difficult - the sachet isn't full  to begin with. If you weighed it, or can weigh out this addition, then is best to get in the ballpark for suitable pitching rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The contents of the sachet are close to sterile before being opened. After being opened, airbourne bacteria will make their way in, and also some moisture will be absorbed, facilitating bacteria growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to take the risk, the go ahead and proof the yeast in 90F water, and verify that you get foaming after 20-30 minutes. If the yeast are healthy then you'll probably be ok, but it's not something you really want to make a habit of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In future I would look for a small sanitary airtight container you can store opened yeast sachets in. Or, better still would be to pitch any unused into some cooled boiled wort (e.g. some made up LME or DME, around 1.030 SG), and store that in the fridge until you need it. (Don't screw down any caps tightly - CO2 will be produced by the yeast which needs to escape to avoid explosions.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T17:42:12.253" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T17:42:12.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6445" CreationDate="2012-02-23T15:18:47.653" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;So i've got a 5 gallon partial mash kit(OG 1.065), and I am looking to add around a gallon to increase my yield for the session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What formula could I use to know how much extra dme to use to keep gravity constant while adding a gallon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have a formula to find the end gravity when just increasing volume (BG*BV=EG*EV), but how do I factor in a volume increase that will have a gravity higher than water???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T17:11:01.873" Title="adding 1 g to 5 g recipe - keep OG the same" Tags="|original-gravity|specific-gravity|recipe-formulation|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6443" CreationDate="2012-02-23T15:38:19.693" Score="4" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this or anything like it from HBC?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewchef.com/AmarilloPale.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewchef.com/AmarilloPale.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The claim is that since the AA's are so high, adding late will balance the beer and impart an amazing nose.  I have about 6oz of amarillos in my freezer and I (and my wife) are anxious to make some space (and sessionable APA)...I don't know how this guy characterizes this recipe as an English Pale with such an abundance of american hops.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be against the grain of 60/30/5 hop additions, so I guess I simply wanted to get an answer as to why this works (or IF this works).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T10:46:10.747" Title="All-late addition hop APA" Tags="|hop-utilization|late-addition|hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6442" CreationDate="2012-02-23T16:39:23.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After entering this into hopville..the ibu's top in the 60's.   So in theory this should work.&#xA;Most of my other ipa's i've used 60, 10, 5, and flameout.  This would definitely ease the brew schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopville link &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/1174343/american-ipa-recipes/10min-amarillo-ipa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hopville.com/recipe/1174343/american-ipa-recipes/10min-amarillo-ipa&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;using a 4 g boil, ibus are 69 / After upping to 6 g ibus increased to 80+&lt;/em&gt;*&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already got a rye ipa on deck for Saturday, but next week I may do a 2.5 gallon BIAB of the above link and check back with this thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastEditorUserId="2089" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T16:45:15.550" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T16:45:15.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6442" CreationDate="2012-02-23T17:09:39.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it works, more commonly know as a hopburst, I believe. Google for &quot;baby faced assassin homebrew&quot; and read the many blogs about a UK homebrewer turned pro who did one with Citra hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T17:09:39.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6441" CreationDate="2012-02-23T17:11:01.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want the fraction that you add to have the same OG as the rest of the batch. In your case its one, its simple, you want one gallon at 1.065. I see DME is 45 points per gallon per pound, so :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;65 = 45 * X (where X = pounds of DME).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X = 65/45 = 1.44 lbs of DME&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general terms, the formula would be &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(OG /Points ) * V (where v = volume to be added in gallons)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2101" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T17:11:01.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1871" CreationDate="2012-02-23T21:14:37.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be referring to these cubitainers&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bestcontainers.com/hedpak---cubitainer-cubitainer--combination-packaging-knocked-down-cubitainer---inserts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bestcontainers.com/hedpak---cubitainer-cubitainer--combination-packaging-knocked-down-cubitainer---inserts.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;most lhbs carry them in 1 and 5 gallon.  I've used them in the 1 gallon format for a cheap &quot;cask&quot; alternative.  I say cask in the fact that they are carbed to low volumes (around 1.5) and that I do not pour through an engine...i instead dispense with gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;they're airtight and the bag collapses as it pours....so minimal oxygen exposure unless your purposefully let it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T21:14:37.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-24T02:49:21.153" Score="2" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good Evening Folks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well...my first batch seemed to go pretty well.  Within 24 hours it was bubbling pretty good.  Now 72 hours later, the bubbling has become very slow  I'm talking one bubble every 15 seconds or so..  I'm a little concerned that it should still be bubbling more.  I want to rack it into a carboy this weekend (I brewed Monday night).  I was at 1.040 so is it ok to let it sit 3 more days and test it Sunday?  If the specific gravity isn't where it should be should I add more yeast and leave it in the bucket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2197" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T11:50:05.137" Title="Fermentation Process" Tags="|fermentation|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6447" CreationDate="2012-02-24T03:17:30.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like everything is proceeding on schedule. Congratulations -- you've made beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about the rate of bubbling. If it was fermenting vigourously in the first few days, you've got nothing to be concerned about. I wouldn't touch it right now. In fact, I wouldn't even rack it to secondary. Let it sit another couple of weeks, and then check the gravity. It should be close the the terminal gravity. Check the gravity again in a couple of days. If it hasn't changed, bottle your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the unlikely event that the fermentation has stalled, I.e. the gravity is not dropping and it's too high, your best bet is to gently rouse the yeast by stirring (try not to introduce too much oxygen) and move the fermenter to a warm place. Wait a week and check the gravity again. If it's still not fermenting add some fresh, rehydrated, yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T03:17:30.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6452" CreationDate="2012-02-24T06:38:51.810" Score="1" ViewCount="1076" Body="&lt;p&gt;During my most recent brew session I may have been a little too relaxed, and had a few too many homebrews during the process.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like I did everything right and kept everything sanitary, but was too drunk by the end of the boil to move my beer to a warm place.  So, it sat in my cold (mid-low 50s) basement overnight and through the morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I moved it to a warmer (high 60s/low 70s) environment the next day but that was two days ago and there's still no sign of fermentation.  No krausen, no bubbles, nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I make a new yeast starter and pitch, or should I wait a little longer to see if they little guys wake up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I can salvage the batch, what effects will this have on my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2176" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T15:35:27.743" Title="Day Three, still no apparent fermentation" Tags="|beer|fermentation-temperature|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6442" CreationDate="2012-02-24T10:46:10.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It certainly does work but I'm not entirely convinced that there's any great advantage to trying to get IBUs late, rather than getting them early and doing a similar sized addition at flameout. In some senses it seems like a waste of hops to boil off anything you'd get from a late addition so I would lean toward a flameout addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T10:46:10.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6447" CreationDate="2012-02-24T11:50:05.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd leave it alone for another 2-3 weeks (depending on style). Let it sit in primary for a while, bottle it, wait another two weeks or so and enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T11:50:05.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6449" CreationDate="2012-02-24T15:35:27.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of people cool their wort overnight, so that should be ok as long as it was in a sanitized container and was covered. Did you take a gravity reading of the cooled wort? If so, you should check the gravity now to confirm that it's not fermenting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pitching more yeast sounds like a good plan if there really is no fermentation. But I'd use a dry yeast at this point, as a liquid yeast starter will take a few days to prepare and every day your wort is unfermented you risk infection. Use two packets for a strong (I.e. over 1.060 starting gravity) or one for a normal gravity beer. Rehydrate as per the manufacturers instructions and pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should consider getting the equipment required to oxygenate the wort before pitching. Yeast use oxygen to reproduce, so an oxygenated wort provides a higher cell count. I use a welder's O2 tanks and an aeration stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T15:35:27.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4645" CreationDate="2012-02-24T22:19:13.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At our school we have 3 Flinn pocket pH meters and 4 Hanna pocket pH meters.  All four Hanna meters work fine, but none I repeat none of the Flinn meters work - they just give off random numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also have a newish Flinn spectrophotometer, one newish Thermo, two 40 year old Baush and Lombs, and an old Sequoia-Turner.  All give roughly the same absorbance values from machine to machine - except the Flinn, which returns random numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T22:19:13.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6455" CreationDate="2012-02-25T00:43:39.867" Score="4" ViewCount="8979" Body="&lt;p&gt;My beer seems to be fermenting more quickly than predicted by the kit.  The last beer I made was ready (with the correct final gravity) in just under a week rather than the 2 weeks predicted by the kit.  The beer I have fermenting right now seems like it will be finished fermenting in the next few days (the bubbles are coming very slowly) and it's only been in the carboy for about 5 days.  The kit predicted 2-3 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last beer was an amber ale and this one is a chocolate stout.  The carboy is being kept in a closet at about 68 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I reach my final gravity does it matter how quickly the beer ferments?  Should I be worried about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2185" LastActivityDate="2018-12-11T07:48:59.427" Title="Can a Beer Ferment Too Quickly?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6454" CreationDate="2012-02-25T01:38:04.323" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's finished, and then there's finished. Even after the yeast has stopped producing alcohol and carbon dioxide in quantity, it's still working. Most importantly, it's busy removing acetaldehyde and other nasties from your beer. From a taste perspective, beer that's drunk too early tastes &quot;green&quot; because the yeast has not had a chance to do its cleanup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a normal (i.e. not far from 1.050) gravity beer, three weeks is probably enough time. Leave it for another couple of weeks, and then take gravity readings on two consecutive days to be sure it's finished fermenting. Then bottle. As Denny said in a comment on a similar, post, let the beer dictate the schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, yes a beer can ferment too quickly. High temperatures during make for quick fermentation, but the yeast will produce more off flavours and hangover compounds. 68 F. is on the high side of acceptable, to my mind. Considering that the fermenting wort will be 3 or 4 degrees above ambient, you might try to keep ambient temperature in the low 60's to produce cleaner beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2012-02-25T03:46:29.973" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T03:46:29.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6457" CreationDate="2012-02-25T01:50:08.770" Score="2" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing on Sunday (today is Friday), and I neglected to get my yeast (WY1056) until just this afternoon. I could make a starter, but I don't know if it would reach &quot;high krausen&quot; in time for pitching Sunday night. And I certainly wouldn't be able to cold crash it, as I normally do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, I could just pitch the smack pack, which has a manufacture date of 13-Feb-2012. Beer Smith tells me that the yeast is 84% viable, yielding 84 billion cells. It also says that for a beer of 1.040 gravity, I need 160 billion cells. In contrast, the smack pack's instructions state that for beers up to 1.060 I don't need to do a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, who's right? Beer smith or WYEast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T02:30:02.550" Title="Do I need a yeast starter for a 1.040 gravity wort?" Tags="|yeast-starters|smack-pack|pitching-rate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6456" CreationDate="2012-02-25T02:30:02.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A missing piece of information is how much you're pitching into. If beersmith is saying you need 160 billion, then you're probably pitiching into about 20 litres (5.7 gallons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you could make a starter tonight and you'd be perfect for pitching on Sunday. Typically a starter needs 24-36 hours for the yeast to reproduce. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jamil's yeast calculator&lt;/a&gt;, you only need a 1 litre starter, as long as you give the starter a good swirl 3-4 times a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's only a 1 litre starter, you don't really have to chill &amp;amp; decant it. It shouldn't affect the flavor of your beer at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could go buy another yeast pack tomorrow and pitch both into your beer. You'd be overpitching slightly, but not by much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T02:30:02.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-25T04:15:21.230" Score="6" ViewCount="1533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started a batch of wine at the end of the summer, and I happen to have a bad habit of not following through on projects. Basically, I fermented it, moved it to the secondary after about a week, then reracked about a month afterwards. Since then, it's been sitting in my basement (cool and dark) aging in the carboys. This has probably been there 5 months (wow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess at this point my question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think there's anything wrong with bottling it at this point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it most likely bad or do you think it's perfectly fine to let it sit that long?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may open one up to smell/taste it. Hope it will be ok so it wasn't a waste of time/energy. Thanks in advance for the advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2199" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T13:38:16.623" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T13:38:16.623" Title="Can wine age too long?" Tags="|wine|aging|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6458" CreationDate="2012-02-25T16:40:59.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't make wine, only beer, but I would absolutely taste that and then bottle it.  Bulk aging in a carboy is no different than aging in bottles as long as you were keeping oxygen out of it (i.e. the airlocks didn't dry out, or you had it sealed)  Even if you didn't manage to keep oxygen out, that would only speed the aging process.  Taste it.  If it's not obviously bad (i.e. vinegar), bottle it.  You didn't let it age too long.  Wine and beer both get better with time, wine on longer timeframes than beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T16:40:59.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6458" CreationDate="2012-02-25T16:48:03.667" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bulk aged wines for up to a year with no bad consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You kept oxygen out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The airlocks didn't dry out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There was sufficient sulphur in the wine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The alcohol was sufficiently high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll be fine. Definielty taste it, and report back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T16:48:03.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-25T18:31:18.057" Score="7" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an experiment, I brewed a gallon-sized batch last weekend using some wild yeast I had captured. Fermentation looks to have proceeded pretty normally, except that the yeast has a somewhat strange appearance. In particular, it seems to be very gummy. Big chunks of it keep traveling in both directions -- from the sediment at the bottom to the kräusen at the top, and vice versa -- and it's starting to stick to pretty much every part of the glass fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this unusual? Is it a sign of lactobacillus or some other non-yeast activity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The history behind the yeast: last summer, I used unwashed organic grapes with white flour and water to create a bread starter. I've been keeping the starter alive since then; at first, by feeding it every day, three times a day. More recently, it spends six days out of seven in the refrigerator and gets three feedings on its day out. The starter has a rather floral bouquet and does not taste very sour at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took about two tablespoons of this starter and put it into a DME soup. As I was able to observe the expected yeast activity, I concluded that my &quot;bread yeast&quot; was capable of doing duty as &quot;brewers yeast&quot;. When I pitched, I avoided including the original blobs of dough -- though of course, some flour is likely to have dissolved into the larger quantity of liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1937" LastEditorUserId="1937" LastEditDate="2012-02-26T02:04:55.860" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T07:41:15.207" Title="Is my gummy wild yeast unusual?" Tags="|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6463" CreationDate="2012-02-26T04:59:15.940" Score="1" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just put my second AG batch into the primary, but I ran into an issue I need some help with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I did my first AG batch, I used water that was treated by a water softener (I know, I know...it was all I had at the time).  My calculated efficiency came in at 75%, using grain points and pre-boil gravity formula.  BeerSmith confirmed reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my second batch I used a combination of water from a rural mountain property well and chlorinated city water. (I plan to profile PH, etc. at a later time)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After mash @ 153F and batch sparge @168F, I only had about 5 gallons of runnings...I think due to the difference in water profiles.  I'm thinking the lack of minerals in the soft water for my first batch prevented the grain from hanging onto it...that's a different question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To compensate for the additional 1.5 gallons of water I needed to reach 6.5 gallons, I ran more water back through my mash tun, over the grain until I had reached 6.5 pre-boil.  I stirred the wort vigorously and took a gravity measurement, which came in at around 1.022.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the same efficiency formula used for my first batch, I show my mash efficiency for this batch super low at ~ 49%.   I double checked in BeerSmith which reports ~ 47%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the topping off of the additional 1.5 gallons diluted the water, giving me a false gravity reading, or is this more likely a water issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T21:36:45.223" Title="Mash Efficiency With Top Off" Tags="|all-grain|mash|efficiency|batch-sparge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6462" CreationDate="2012-02-26T15:42:19.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think grain absorption varies according to mineral content, so that's not the cause of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the top up runnings, I would have done that as a 2nd batch sparge - add the extra 1.5 gallons, stir vigorously and leave for 30 mins. Simply running the liquor over the grains won't pick up much sugars unless you let it trickle slowly out over a 30 minute period, and that you have a manifold that reduces channeling. The usual batch sparge setup of a bazooka screen isn't well suited to continuous sparging, but very well suited to batch sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While temperature plays a key role in conversion performance, so does pH. The different water profile could have resulted in a high or low pH compared to your previous batch. This could have affected conversion rate - conversion may not have fully completed when you took the first runnings. Next time, check your mash pH, and add food grade lactic or phosphoric acid if it is too high, or add baking soda if it is too low - target is 5.1-5.5 pH - and all else being equal, a lower pH gives a slightly drier beer. For the acids, use 1ml at a time - for the baking soda, use 0.5tsp at a time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming the crush was the same, but check that also since it can affect extraction efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you use different amounts of mash/sparge liquor according to the predicted absorption of the grain? I'm guessing the amount of grain for the 2 batches was different, and so the amount of liquor will also need to be different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, my bet is on the different pH of the water affecting the mash, not the absorption rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-26T17:02:56.653" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T17:02:56.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6408" CreationDate="2012-02-26T19:48:17.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can raise the temp to 64F and leave it there if you're concerned fermentation is going too slowly, but not much higher than that. That will give the yeast a gentle nudge, without sending them into overdrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the rest, a couple of days is more than enough and can help the yeast generally kick up a gear to clean up anything else they haven't yet taken care of (acetalaldehyde for example). But I wouldn't take it up to the mid 70s until fermentation has completely finished, or you may introduce esters and fruitiness, not really wanted in a cream ale, which you've accordingly tried hard to eliminate with the low temp ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T19:48:17.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6465" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-27T10:14:11.443" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T10:14:11.443" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T10:14:11.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6466" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-27T10:14:11.443" Score="0" Body="Extraction or mash efficiency - the percentage of actual sugars extracted from the grain compared to the theoretical maximum." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T11:20:17.097" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T11:20:17.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6467" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-27T10:18:38.240" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T10:18:38.240" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T10:18:38.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6468" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-27T10:18:38.240" Score="0" Body="A method of sparging where the mash is ran off and a large portion of the sparge liquor (often all of it) is added at once. A simpler technique than fly/continuous sparging." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T11:20:10.187" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T11:20:10.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6469" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-27T10:20:44.773" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T10:20:44.773" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T10:20:44.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6470" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-27T10:20:44.773" Score="0" Body="A beer with an original gravity of 1.070 or higher." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T12:37:11.630" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T12:37:11.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6471" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-27T10:28:03.707" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T10:28:03.707" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T10:28:03.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6472" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-27T10:28:03.707" Score="0" Body="A packaging type of liquid yeast, comprising a pouch containing both yeast and a small plastic sachet of nutrient. A few days before use, the nutrient is &quot;smacked&quot; (squashed between hands), releasing it into the yeast. The yeast ferment the nutrient, producing CO2, which inflates the main pouch. The puffed up pack is an indicator of yeast viability and readiness for pitching." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T11:20:42.713" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T11:20:42.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6473" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-27T10:40:38.117" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T10:40:38.117" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T10:40:38.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6474" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-27T10:40:38.117" Score="0" Body="Indigenous yeast harvested naturally, such as from open air or from skins of fruits and berries. " OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T11:20:47.423" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T11:20:47.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6475" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-27T10:46:38.350" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T10:46:38.350" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T10:46:38.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6476" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-27T10:46:38.350" Score="0" Body="An undesired flavor in the final beer. The flavor may be undesirable in any style, such as soapiness, harsh astringency, or may be out of place in the style being brewed, such as fruitiness or diacetyl in a lager." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T11:20:28.470" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T11:20:28.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6477" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-27T10:50:45.760" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T10:50:45.760" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T10:50:45.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6478" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-27T10:50:45.760" Score="0" Body="The brewing process is a sequence of steps and techniques that transform ingredients (typically malt, yeast and water) into beer." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T12:37:20.303" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T12:37:20.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6353" CreationDate="2012-02-27T11:14:21.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used cocoa nibs for probably 8 different brews now and I put them into a mesh bag that I boiled or sanitized.  I've never done anything to the actual nibs.  Didn't put them in the oven, sanitize them or use vodka.  Just straight into the secondary.  My brew buddies also do the same thing.  Also....I think 2 oz. may be not be enough. Just my opinion.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2201" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T11:14:21.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6405" CreationDate="2012-02-27T11:22:05.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good way to get some vanilla flavor is to just get a vanilla bean, split it down the middle and put it right in the secondary.  I've done this many times and works great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2201" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T11:22:05.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-27T15:25:52.130" Score="2" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Radical Brewing, Randy Mosher has a great section on 10 ways to improve stout brewing (including home-roasting flaked oats/funky grains). I plan on employing several of these techniques, including ~5% acidulated malt, into a big, bold stout I am brewing for my brother's 50th. He and I have had some great times in New Orleans, including my own bachelor party, and he's a huge fan of the chicory coffee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of basing the style on Jamil's American Stout, as my brother is also a hophead, but am concerned that this is going to be one of those 'kitchen sink' recipes that ends up being a jumbled mess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13 lbs American 2 row &#xA;1 lb acid malt &#xA;1 lb Roasted Barley &#xA;.75lb Chocolate Malt &#xA;.75lb crystal 40 &#xA;.5 lb toasted flaked oats &#xA;1 lb toasted buckwheat &#xA;horizon 1.4 oz 60 minute &#xA;Centennial a oz 5 minute &#xA;US-05 @ 67 degrees &#xA;Secondary with cold-steeped coffee, chicory, cocoa nibs (not sure on amounts) &#xA;target OG will be mid-70's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess real simply, my question is: what style stout are the popular coffee-ish stouts, such as Founder's Breakfast Stout, DFH Chicory Stout and will the American hops kill the goodness from the adjuncts? I know this question is somewhat subjective, but I would like to draw on people's experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T17:36:10.873" Title="Appropriate Stout Style for Chicory, Coffee (and more!)" Tags="|stout|chocolate|coffee|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6482" CreationDate="2012-02-27T17:33:32.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your brother is a hop head what about doing a Cascadian dark ale (http://www.byo.com/stories/beer-styles/article/indices/11-beer-styles/2072-birth-of-a-new-style-cascadian-dark-ale) like Deschutes Hop in the Dark.  I bet that would pair well with your chicory coffee.  That way you get the best of all worlds, and the dark and roasted malt wouldn't overwhelm the hops or chicory coffee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T17:33:32.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6482" CreationDate="2012-02-27T17:36:10.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not used Horizon, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew365.com/hops_horizon.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reviews&lt;/a&gt; show that it's not a citrus bomb, but on the whole neutral and clean, with some earthiness and spiciness. To my mind, those qualities are good with stouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the aroma addition, I would probably go with Wiliamette or similar hop (Ultra, Tettanger, Hallertau, Crystal, although that's a bit pungent) - Centennial is very citrus - would you put lemon juice in your coffee? Well, some people do, but it's an unusual drink and not to everyone's taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T17:36:10.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6492" CreationDate="2012-02-27T23:59:51.790" Score="8" ViewCount="10918" Body="&lt;p&gt;After surveying questions related to dry hopping and secondary here on the Exchange, I don't yet have solid answers to the following questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should beer be transferred to secondary for the purpose of dry hopping? If so, why?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long after primary should the beer be transferred to secondary?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regardless of secondary, how long should the beer be on the hops before bottling/kegging?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The context is that I have an IPA that I plan to dry hop, which is a technique I've never done before. The beer is a Stone IPA clone based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew365.com/beer_stone_ipa.php&quot;&gt;this recipe&lt;/a&gt;, and it is now at the 1 week mark of fermentation. It's a 5gal batch (closer to 4.5) and I have about 2.25 ounces of whole-leaf hops (Centennial, Amarillo and Cascade) that I plan to use. The secondary vessel would be a 5gal glass carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read related posts about whether or not to secondary, and I agree that secondary is generally unnecessary. However, my source recipe implies secondary, and that matches my general understanding: get the beer off the trub before dry hopping. But I haven't yet got a clear answer about it. I am listening to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/Brew-Strong-12-08-08-Dry-Hopping&quot;&gt;Brew Strong episode about dry hopping&lt;/a&gt; right now but I may not have the patience for a 90+ minute podcast to get my answer; besides, text is much easier as a reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T02:51:20.173" Title="Should dry hopping be done in secondary, when to transfer, and for how long?" Tags="|secondary|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6485" CreationDate="2012-02-28T00:32:49.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe. The argument for 'yes' is that the yeast can coat and interfere with the dry hops. The argument for 'no' is that if the yeast are still fermenting that will help keep the dry hops in suspension. I've heard more arguments in favor of racking than I've heard against. I rack into a keg for dry hopping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the beer is done? Unless you think that the answer to #1 is &quot;No&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Answers vary wildly. In my beers I dry hop for 5-7 days then rack the beer off the hops. The common wisdom is that leaving the beer on dry hops for too long creates &quot;Vegetal&quot; flavors. Although you'll hear lots of people say that this is untrue. I think it depends on the beer and the hop, personally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T00:32:49.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6487" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-28T08:38:22.173" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T08:38:22.173" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T08:38:22.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6488" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-28T08:38:22.173" Score="0" Body="The practice of removing the majority of microorganisms from equipment, utentils, fermentors, bottles etc. that comes into contact with the cooled wort. Poor sanitation can contaminate the wort, producing off-flavors." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T13:23:19.670" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T13:23:19.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6489" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-28T08:57:43.133" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T08:57:43.133" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T08:57:43.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6490" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-28T08:57:43.133" Score="0" Body="Temperature plays a key role throughout the brewing process, particularly during the mash and during fermentation. " OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T13:23:16.330" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T13:23:16.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6485" CreationDate="2012-02-28T09:28:56.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've never transferred for a dry hop but I'm not sure that it doesn't make a difference - instinctively the trub/yeast is at the bottom and the hops are at the top of the beer so I don't think it makes much of a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if there's any real consensus on length of dry hop - Some say big and short, but e.g. Pliny Younger is dry hopped for 3 weeks or something. I would say whatever floats your boat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T09:28:56.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6485" CreationDate="2012-02-28T09:31:12.547" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Should beer be transferred to secondary for the purpose of dry hopping? If so, why?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of it is down to personal preference. If you're not doing a secondary for other reasons, then racking to secondary can be considered unnecessary. The main reason for doing a secondary solely for dry hopping is that racking from primary and avoiding trub is tricky enough, and even trickier trying to avoid sucking up hops as well. A sanitized mesh bag over the end of the racking cane can make this easier. The hops float, especially if put in a bag, so no need to worry about interaction with the yeast and trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. How long after primary should the beer be transferred to secondary?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to do a secondary just for dry hopping, then leave the beer to ferment out - 7 to 10 days for typical brews - before racking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Regardless of secondary, how long should the beer be on the hops before bottling/kegging?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5-10 days, but this depends upon hop variety and on the quantity of hops you are using. If you are using more hops, then less time is desirable - say 3-7 days max, since the larger mass leads to quicker formation of vegetal or grassy flavors. I would taste after 5 days and decide from that how much longer to leave it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are kegging then I would definitely skip the secondary for dry hopping alone. Rack to the keg, and put the hops in a sanitized hop bag, with some thin string. The string can pass through the mouth of the keg (over the O-ring) without breaking the seal. Apply a little CO2 to close the lid and provide some dispensing pressure so you can then regularly sample the beer without opening the keg. When the taste is to your liking, open the keg, remove the bag and then force carb as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T09:36:27.390" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T09:36:27.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6485" CreationDate="2012-02-28T15:26:22.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some good answers on #1 and #3, but I will give a (hopefully) more complete answer on #2.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have one, get yourself a sample thief ($9ish dollars, and a great investment), and a spray bottle to fill with mixed star san.  Be maniacal about sanitization, and pull a sample after 14-21 days.  Then take another a few days later.  If the gravity has not moved, fermentation is done.  However, it is good practice to leave the beer on the yeast for a while longer (5-7 days) to allow the yeast to clean up some other compounds they produced during fermentation.  THEN you can rack (or bottle/keg as the case may be).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For #1 and #3 As you can tell, the &quot;when's, if's, how-long's, and why's&quot; of secondary fermentation are feverishly debated in the homebrewing/brewing community.  I have had great results with and without secondary fermentation, but as always, make sure to do everything in your power to minimize/eliminate oxidation/contamination.  The process of racking just introduces one more variable that can lead to infection or oxidation (which many brett-heads will tell you is worse that a little bug taking partial hold).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just had 5 gallons of my house IPA on 2 ounces of Simcoes for just under two weeks (in a secondary).  While the beer lacked a good aroma after primary fermentation, this gave it an amazing apricot/tangerine nose...good luck!  Your beer sounds right up my alley!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T15:26:22.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6495" CreationDate="2012-02-28T17:05:30.677" Score="5" ViewCount="7745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to all grain brewing and one of the things I haven't been able to find much information on is the importance of water volumes for the mash and sparge steps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of calculators out there, and I'm trying to find out if water volumes play a key role in the extraction of sugars from the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes sense that too little water in a mash wouldn't allow for the extraction of sugars because not all of the grain would be soaking in the mash water.  But, can the mash efficiency be lessened when mashing with too much water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, once mashing is complete, does it really matter how much sparge water is used, so long as you reach your target pre-boil volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T05:13:25.443" Title="Importance of Mash and Sparge Water Volumes using Batch Sparge" Tags="|mash|batch-sparge|mash-thickness|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6494" CreationDate="2012-02-28T18:28:57.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mash thickness has a small impact on your beer, but not really enough to stress about. I aim for a constant thickness, regardless of beer style. Some brewers give their stronger beers to have a thicker mash, while their low-gravity beers have a thinner mash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The logic behind that latter approach is that thinner mashes encourage a more fermentable beer. My opinion is that lowering the mash temp a degree or two has a much bigger impact than mash thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe that mash thickness will have much effect on your efficiency, as long as you are in the 'normal' range of mash thickness -- about 1-3 quarts of water per lb of grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how much sparge water you ues, the approach I follow is that First Runnings + Second Runnings (i.e. the sparge water) = Pre-Boil Volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to do it this way, but it's a good solid approach that doesn't waste water. To figure out how much water you'll need requires a small bit of math and knowledge about your system. You'll need to know how much water you'll lose to your mash tun's false bottom (1-2 liters is common) and how much water will be absorbed by the grain (about .9 liters per kg of grain for me). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  Water lost to grain&#xA;+ water lost to false bottom &#xA;+ pre boil volume &#xA;= total water needed for mash &amp;amp; sparge.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T18:28:57.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6494" CreationDate="2012-02-28T18:51:04.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Hopwise addressed the issue of efficiency and mash thickness. But the amount of sparge water will affect your efficiency as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more water you sparge with, the more sugar you'll extract from the mash. The grist will absorb a constant amount of water (around 0.13 gallons per pound of grist). When you add your sparge water and stir, all the sugars are dissolved into the water. If you add a lot of water, the sugars are very dilute. If you add a little water, they're more concentrated. When you drain your mash tun, you're leaving behind jsut the water absorbed by the grain. If the sugars are highly concentrated (i.e. you added a small amount of sparge water), then you're leaving behind more sugar than if the sugars are dilute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this doesn't mean that you should add huge quantities of sparge water. The increase in extract is countered by a number of factors. For one, you'll have to boil longer to evaporate all that water you added. Also, you'll have to heat all that extra sparge water. The gains in efficiency are countered by using more energy and spending more time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I calculate my sparge water volume from the boil time, and evaporation rate. For most beers I boil for 90 minutes. With my setup, this translates to an evaporation loss of around 1.5 gallons. So to get 5.5 gallons into the fermenter I aim for a pre-boil volume of around 7 gallons. You're mileage will, of course, vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T18:51:04.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6497" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-28T21:14:16.080" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T21:14:16.080" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T21:14:16.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6498" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-28T21:14:16.080" Score="0" Body="Mash thickness is the amount of mash liquor relative to the grist. A thick mash has relatively less water, while a thin mash has more. Mash thicknesses from 1-2.5 qt/lb (ca. 2-4.5 l/kg) are common, with a typical ratio being 1.25-1.5qt/lb (2.5-3.2 l/kg)" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T23:39:19.350" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T23:39:19.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6485" CreationDate="2012-02-28T22:07:41.773" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, maybe this is a little weird answering my own question after I marked mdma's response as the answer. I want to share things I learned outside of the Exchange as a potential answer for future readers to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I listened to (most of) the Brew Strong podcast and took notes. My new understanding is that dry hopping is as much a matter of style as any other decision made while brewing. There are best practices but no real wrong way to do it. Each brewer has his or her own technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some notes I took while listening to the podcast (any misinterpretation of the topic is purely my own fault):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The goal of dry hopping is to impart the aroma of hops by letting the beer absorb the volatile oils that get driven off in the boil, so any method of contact between the beer and dry hops will lead towards that goal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pellets or plugs are probably better here than whole leaf; less oxygen will be introduced and less beer will be soaked up by the hops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bag is probably not necessary, unless dry hopping occurs in the keg. A bag makes for easy cleanup but could restrict exposure of the hops to the beer. Just use something to filter the solid material when you drain/siphon out of the vessel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some people agitate the beer every day or so while dry hopping to ensure even distribution, such as blowing CO2 through the beer or simply rocking the vessel gently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On primary vs. secondary, the tradeoff appears to be the exposure to air in the racking process against the yeast and the hops interacting. The antiseptic properties of the hops could interfere with the yeast, and/or the yeast could break down the hops and create undesirable flavors; shorter dry hopping times could make this a non-issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On when to add the hops, if adding to primary, some people recommend starting when the ferment is nearly done, around 85%-90% of completion. The yeast can consume oxygen introduced with the hops and the additional CO2 produced during the end of fermentation helps to re-establish the airlock. However, said CO2 can also carry away some of the subtle hop aromatics, but that may or not be important for the style.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To avoid grassy/vegetal flavors from occurring, use small amounts of high alpha hops for a shorter period of time (5-7 days vs. 1-2 weeks). The longer the hops are left in the beer, the more likely the chance of undesired flavors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taste the beer every day or so to understand how time + dry hopping affects the flavor. Stop when it tastes right. If you accidentally go too long, you've learned something for your next try.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The longer the hops are left in the beer, the more likely to get grassy/vegetal flavors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The time to leave hops in will vary depending on amount, type, and alpha content of the hops, and the desired result. 3-5 days seems the minimum and 1-2 weeks seems the maximum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature has an effect on extraction of the volatile oils; warmer temperatures will speed the process, colder temps will slow it down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T22:07:41.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4336" CreationDate="2012-02-29T07:35:46.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't exactly ask &quot;Are Hops Bad For My Dog?&quot; but here's that answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best evidence I have seen on-line is the following article (abstract linked) from the Journal of the American Veterinary Association):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8977648&quot;&gt;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8977648&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&quot;Malignant hyperthermia-like reaction secondary to ingestion of hops in five dogs&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 out of the 5 dogs being described died.  In other words, ingestion of hops (as opposed to beer with hops) can be fatal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also find several anecdotal stories on homebrewtallk describing how hops ingestion killed their dog:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2010/05/09/hops-and-dogs/&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2010/05/09/hops-and-dogs/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/danger-hops-dogs-108663/&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/danger-hops-dogs-108663/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I combed through some articles awhile back.  I couldn't find an LD50 or anything but read some reports indicated 1 oz had been 'proven' fatal, at least for that brewer's dog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So will beer with hops (most beer right?) hurt your dog?  I'd guess not.  If your 5g batch was brewed with 4 ozs of hops and somehow they all made it into the bottles (not how that works of course), you'd have 4/50 of an oz per bottle (aka 2/25, aka about 2g).  Maybe he shouldn't get that Hop Heaven IPA.  Avery's Ellie's Brown Ale perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastEditorUserId="2083" LastEditDate="2012-02-29T23:41:01.620" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T23:41:01.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6461" CreationDate="2012-02-29T07:41:15.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Tobias notes, you likely have a mix of yeast and bacteria.  You might have primarily had yeast from the grapes but as you have advanced your starter using flour, you likely picked up lactobacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sourdough starter, which is basically what it sounds like you made, is a mix of bacteria and yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wikipedia page has a touch of info on sourdough culturing.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sourdough&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sourdough&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be guessing at what the activity you are observing is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you sampled the fermenting beer?  Sour?  Not sour?  Very curious...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T07:41:15.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6353" CreationDate="2012-02-29T17:59:32.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the chocolate stout I'm working on, I added 8oz of cacao powder during the boil (avoided the whole sanitation issue!).  A quick taste after a hygrometer test showed a really good chocolate flavor.  Perhaps you can introduce the nibs during the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2185" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T17:59:32.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6504" CreationDate="2012-03-01T18:44:50.113" Score="1" ViewCount="314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a blichmann therminator, and I want to hook up stainless camlock/ groove 1/2&quot; nipples to all 4 &quot;openings&quot;.  Problem is, the coolant line in/ out are 3/4&quot; GHT, which, while I understand why they did that, really makes standardizing on a quickconnect system a true pain in the butt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been looking for a 3/4 GHT female to either 1/2&quot; camlock/groove or 1/2&quot; NPT male in stainless, and have come up completely empty handed.  Has anyone seen these/ know where I can order some?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T16:12:25.940" Title="Looking for a specific fitting" Tags="|beer|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6503" CreationDate="2012-03-01T20:15:27.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several female GHT x 1/2&quot; MPT fittings on ebay in brass as well as the link I posted in the comment. I've never seen any in stainless - of course that doesn't mean they don't exist - but I'd imagine it's a very niche product, and hence expensive. Given that brass garden hose fittings are usually acceptable, GHT stainless fittings not a high-volume product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to use a stainless GHT x barb bitting and a short length of 1/2&quot; hose with a camlock on the end. On one end of the hose is female GHT x 1/2&quot; barb, and on the other, a stainless 1/2&quot; barb x 1/2&quot; MPT and then the camlock (or use the barbed camlock fitting to avoid a big lump of hardware on the end.) &lt;a href=&quot;http://fittingsandadapters.com/garhosbarsta.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fittingsandadapters.com&lt;/a&gt; lists a stainless Female GHT x 1/2&quot; barb for $35.70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hadn't already got the Therminator, I would have recommended going for the chillers at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=b3-23a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dudadiesel&lt;/a&gt; - you can get them with 1/2&quot; MPT threads on all 4 ports, avoiding the GHT problem entirely, but I imagine you don't want to hear that now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-05T16:12:25.940" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T16:12:25.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3785" CreationDate="2012-03-01T21:49:03.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I dry-hop a recipe, I tend to use the following procedure. It nicely prevents any free-floating hop pieces from making it into the final product while giving the most exposure of hops to beer that I can imagine. It all starts with a larger, wider-mouthed carboy. It's an investment I have been happy with. I just can't bring myself to use &quot;open-bucket&quot; fermentation; I need glass with a good seal. The large-necked carboy lets me work my dry-hopping method, and also is good if I want to throw large things into a secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fill a sanitized mesh bag with the dry hops and shove it through the neck - the wider mouth makes this possible and makes it possible to remove the bag intact later. I loosely tie the bag shut and leave a long end of free twine with a loop tied in the far end. The extra twine will make it easier to fish the bag out at the end. I rack from the primary into this setup. (Actually, I've also used this setup in the primary with great results - read on.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I'm using a bag rather than letting hops float free, the hops are all pillowed together. The whole bag just floats with about only a quarter of it submerged. So I take a long metal rod and push the bag down so that it's about halfway down to the bottom of the carboy. I don't push it all the way down because I don't want the bag interacting with the sludge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I wedge in the bung and the bung holds down the other end of the rod. This way the bag is stuck submerged. My intention is to get all of the hops exposed to liquid. Also, just in case there were a sudden burst of fermentation (or if I am actually in a primary stage), I don't risk the bag or free floating hops getting pushed all the way up to the neck and choking off gas escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hops are 100% submerged and at depth, the fermenting currents are scrubbing the hops. The product racks out with no hop leaf particles. However there is a beautiful sheen of lupulin drops floating at the top of the carboy. The IPA's I have made with this method are very very fragrant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After racking to bottle or keg, the bag can be removed without hassle due to the wider mouthed carboy. It helps to fish the bag out with a coat hanger or something - that's what the loop tied in the end was for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T21:49:03.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2012-03-01T21:52:38.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3785/dry-hop-filtering-and-bottling&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; describes my technique, which does not weigh down but rather pushes down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T21:52:38.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6508" CreationDate="2012-03-01T21:52:54.177" Score="5" ViewCount="6540" Body="&lt;p&gt;My malted cider had been brewing after about a week in my plastic brewing bucket to the point where the little 'hat' thing in my airlock fell onto the 'neck' (no internal pressure).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opened it up to take a gravity reading (1.003) and saw a bunch of gunk on the wall above the level of the wort.  After I put the lid back on, I swirled it around a bunch to get the gunk mixed back into the wort, and it's been fermenting fine for the past four days.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other notes:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;*  When pitching, I just sprinkled the yeast on top, put the lid on, and stuck it in a corner&lt;br&gt;&#xA;*  There has been no discernible temperature change  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just curious if this is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;update:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I checked the gravity after a couple days and it's down to 1.002 now, so I believe it's still fermenting away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2196" LastEditorUserId="2196" LastEditDate="2012-03-02T16:56:41.277" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T04:41:08.833" Title="My cider stopped fermenting until I swished it around in the bucket a bunch, then continued. Is that normal?" Tags="|fermentation|specific-gravity|stuck-fermentation|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6507" CreationDate="2012-03-01T22:19:59.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is perfectly normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your gravity is 1.003, I'm not sure if fermentation actually started, or you just caused some of the CO2 to come out of solution - in both cases you'll get bubbles in the airlock. Ah, 4 days you say, that's quite a long time. It could be that you got &quot;stratification&quot; - bands of higher concentrated sugars at the bottom. By rousing the yeast you give them more contact with the sugar. You'll know for sure if it really was still fermenting by taking another reading in a couple of days after airlock activity has subsided. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;gunk&quot; on the bucket above the wort level shouldn't really be mixed back into the wort. It won't harm you, but it may taste bitter. I thoroughly recommend John Palmer's book, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt;, and IMHO should be considered required reading before attempting to brew. In it, he &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mentions&lt;/a&gt; about the crud:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The brown scum that forms during fermentation and clings to the side&#xA;  of the fermentor is intensely bitter and if it is stirred back into&#xA;  the beer it will cause very astringent tastes. The scum should be&#xA;  removed from the beer, either by letting it cling undisturbed to the&#xA;  sides of an oversize fermentor, or by skimming it off the krausen, or&#xA;  blowing off the krausen itself from a 5 gallon carboy. I have never&#xA;  had any problems by simply letting it cling to the sides of the&#xA;  fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please post back if this affected your cider, but keep in mind that the cider itself may be a little bitter, not just because you stirred the trub back into the beer. 1.003 (or lower if it fermented on) is pretty low - depending upon your original gravity - there may not be much sugar left to provide sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-02T11:15:14.010" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T11:15:14.010" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6510" CreationDate="2012-03-01T23:49:39.650" Score="2" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to brew a Single Malt and Single Hop (SMaSH) beer using Canada Malting's Superior Pilsner and Czech saaz hops. I'd like the resulting beer to be full bodied, like Pilsner Urquell, but I'm concerned that an intensive decoction mash will produce a very fermentable wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been reading Braukaiser's page on &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Decoction_Mashing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;decoction mashing&lt;/a&gt;, though he doesn't go into much detail on mashing for body. Here's what I've come up with as a first approximation.  Would this mash schedule produce a full-bodied beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Mash in 146 for 35 minutes&#xA;Decoct to 160 for 40 minutes&#xA;Decoct to 170 for 10 minutes&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2012-03-02T00:13:50.447" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T14:54:04.537" Title="Double decoction mash profile for full bodied beer" Tags="|mash|decoction|body|smash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6509" CreationDate="2012-03-02T00:28:41.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks good. The first rest in the 140s will create a fermentable wort, while the later rest around 160 will help create body and foam stability. However, I don't think the rest times are long enough to be practical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When pulling the decoction, you have to raise it's temperature (possibly slowly so not to overshoot), let it rest for 15 mins, and then also boil for between 15 and 30 mins. With that in mind, the first two rests will have to be at least 45 mins, and that's probably a tight squeeze. Personally, I'd go for 60 mins for each mash rest so you have enough time to perform the decoction properly. Also, both the beta- and alpha-amylase rests are at the lower end of their respective temperature ranges, so more time is needed compared to the familiar single infusion at 152-4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-02T00:35:05.063" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T00:35:05.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6507" CreationDate="2012-03-02T01:32:49.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gravity reading pretty much indicates fermentation was done.  Shaking the bucket just knocked the CO2 out of solution, like shaking up a can of soda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crud you were trying to get back into the &quot;beverage&quot; is called krausen.  Its mostly yeast and other proteins from the malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not knowing your recipe I don't know if you used hops or not as part of the &quot;malted&quot; part of your cider.  If you did use some hops you might expect the &quot;beverage&quot; to be slightly more bitter than if you left the krausen on the bucket walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its normal to just leave it stuck to the walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T01:32:49.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6513" CreationDate="2012-03-02T01:39:14.963" Score="6" ViewCount="8972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started kegging.  I have a beer in a 5 gal ball lock keg.  I connected the regulator, set pressure to 15 psi and connected the gas line to the keg.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I connected the liquid line (standard picnic attachment: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?products_id=1271&quot;&gt;http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?products_id=1271&lt;/a&gt;) beer immediately began spewing from the faucet.  After disassembling and reassembling the faucet, this didn't happen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noticed that some beer flowed into the gas line.  How did this happen?  Did I overfill the keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this damage the regulator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T06:05:07.857" Title="Backflow into gas line" Tags="|kegging|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6512" CreationDate="2012-03-02T02:58:19.997" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't tell you how many times I've hooked up a picnic tap with it in the locked-open position :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yes, it does sound like you overfilled the keg.  That's the only way beer can come out the gas-in post.  The gas-in diptube is quite short, but I still like to give it an inch or so of space just to make sure beer can't get back into the diptube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will damage the regulator if the beer gets all the way up to the body.  There's a fiber washer inside that seals things, and it will get saturated with beer (see my picture below).  Even if it doesn't leak, it's terribly unsanitary.  Make sure to replace the CO2 lines as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most regulators and CO2 distribution blocks today come with check valves in their shutoff valves, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/1-4-barbed-shutoff-valve.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these from Midwest supply&lt;/a&gt;.  I do recommend them, as the results of getting beer flowing back into your regulator are messy, to say the least.  Not that I'd know or anything...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pC2px.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But hey, at least now I know how to disassemble a regulator!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T02:58:19.997" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6512" CreationDate="2012-03-02T06:05:07.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that most everybody who has kegged has had this happen, maybe just part of the learning curve i guess. I went to my local homebrew supply and got a &lt;strong&gt;check valve&lt;/strong&gt; like &lt;em&gt;joeFish&lt;/em&gt; was talking about (less then $10) and it puts my mind to ease, i think a new regulator is $60- $70 so well worth it. I put the check valve on the ball lock end with a small length of tubing between just so i can see if there is a problem or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GOOD LUCK!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T06:05:07.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6531" CreationDate="2012-03-02T14:08:00.047" Score="7" ViewCount="21172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently moved to Rhode Island and my mash efficiency has suffered. The main part of my process that has changed is the water. The pH as measured by colorpHast strips (and two other off brands) starts out around 5.5 (with the systematic error of 0.3 as observed by Braukaiser, that's 5.8).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This pH is ridiculously low to work with, and I've been having a hard time. I've used more calcium carbonate (chalk) and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) than I like to raise the pH to acceptable levels in the mash (it gets to the 4-5 pH range even with a mash of around 14 SRM).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also taken to steeping roasted (and really any 100+ Lovibond grain) grains for pretty much every beer I mash to avoid dropping the pH with darker grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can I use to raise the pH?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard sodium hydroxide (food grade) might be usable, but I have no experience with it and haven't found much about it with regard to mashing wort. It's also caustic and somewhat dangerous to handle from what I hear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard that calcium hydroxide (used for pickling) is an option. I think I might order some of this from Amazon and try it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastEditorUserId="907" LastEditDate="2012-03-02T16:27:24.330" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T21:53:00.930" Title="How can I raise my mash pH with something other than chalk or baking soda?" Tags="|mash|efficiency|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6517" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-02T15:21:30.570" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-03-02T15:21:30.570" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T15:21:30.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6518" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-02T15:21:30.570" Score="0" Body="The mash pH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of the mash. Mash pH affects conversion efficiency and, to some extent, fermentability. The mash pH should be in the range 5.1-5.6, with 5.2 considered optimal.  " OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-02T15:35:44.250" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T15:35:44.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6516" CreationDate="2012-03-02T16:33:58.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sodium hydroxide is lye - caustic soda, and has the same disadvantage as baking soda - leaving behind sodium anions, as well as being a strong base, so careful handling is required. Calcium hydroxide - pickling lye - is better suited, it's also a strong base and is used much in the food industry. (I live in Norway, and here it's used to prepare a fish meal eaten at Christmas.) I don't like that dish so I've not used it myself, but it's a powder that's fairly easy to handle. Weigh out half a gram, 1/8tsp and observe the change in pH, and add more as necessary. It produces Calcium anions - adding calcium is beneficial since all beers need at least 50ppm calcium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer to avoid handling strong bases, Chalk is ok for the beer, since it avoids sodium, but doesn't readily dissolve. (Although with your acidic mash you might get better results than most.) A trick to getting it to dissolve is to emulate what mother nature does - constant motion (flowing waters) and dissolved CO2 (from the air) help dissolve the chalk into solution. You can speed up the natural process by adding the water and chalk to a corny keg, adding a little CO2 pressure and shaking/rocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/brewing-low-alkalinity-water-298867/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HBT - Brewing with low alkalinity water&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T16:33:58.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6458" CreationDate="2012-03-02T21:33:46.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bulk aged wines for multiple years, some big reds take that long or longer to really come into their own, I've even aged whites for that long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly there is such a thing as too much age on a wine, I got a lot of full bottles of wine from the 60s and they had all completely oxidized, though this was due to cork failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as it tastes okay, you're fine. In my experience 5 months of age on a wine is still a young wine. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T21:33:46.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6522" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-02T23:56:34.603" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-03-02T23:56:34.603" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T23:56:34.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6523" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-02T23:56:34.603" Score="0" Body="abbreviation of cornellius keg. A stainless steel tank, with gas in and liquid out posts that mate with quick disconnects for simple attachment and removal of hoses. 5 gallon capacity is the most common size used by homebrewers. Corny-kegs were most recognized in the soda industry  for many years." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-03-03T01:57:43.140" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T01:57:43.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6524" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-03T00:00:05.177" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-03-03T00:00:05.177" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T00:00:05.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6525" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-03T00:00:05.177" Score="0" Body="A traditional mashing tequnique where a thick portion (mostly grain, less liquid) of the mash is drawn off, boiled and added back to the main mash. Decoction may be performed several times during the mash as part of a step mash routine as well as to contribute body and complexity to the beer." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-03-03T02:02:48.143" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T02:02:48.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6526" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-03T13:05:45.607" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-03-03T13:05:45.607" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T13:05:45.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6527" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-03T13:05:45.607" Score="0" Body="The stage in the brewing process where yeast is pitched into the wort and the bulk of the sugars are converted to alcohol,  transforming the wort into beer. Contrasts with secondary fermentation, bottle fermentation (bottle conditioning) and aging." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-03T15:28:17.700" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T15:28:17.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6528" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-03T13:13:45.173" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-03-03T13:13:45.173" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T13:13:45.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6529" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-03T13:13:45.173" Score="0" Body="A shorthand form for &quot;secondary fermentation&quot; or &quot;secondary fermentor.&quot; Having the beer &quot;in secondary&quot; implies the beer has been racked to a different fermentation vessel and is undergoing &quot;secondary-fermentation.&quot; " OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-03T15:28:47.837" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T15:28:47.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6458" CreationDate="2012-03-03T14:40:36.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you keep them away from light, drastic temp changes, and O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; you'll be fine. I've bottled many after four years. Often I'll keep them in the barrel for one to two years (15g). Keep an eye on the SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; levels especially if you're barrelling. The little bit of O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; you get in the wine will help it age. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2211" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-03-03T15:08:00.217" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T15:08:00.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6516" CreationDate="2012-03-03T16:19:53.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use pickling lime frequently to raise pH and it works really well.  It's much more effective than either chalk or baking soda, which means you can use a lot less of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T16:19:53.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6558" CreationDate="2012-03-03T18:46:59.357" Score="1" ViewCount="1878" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning a fermentation monitor based on an &lt;a href=&quot;http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMega2560&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;arduino board&lt;/a&gt;. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oscsys.com/7.87-1-Wire-Temperature-Probe-with-M12-Male-Connector.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;temperature sensors&lt;/a&gt; comprise a 1/4&quot; OD stainless tube 8&quot; long, which will be used with buckets and carboys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are stainless &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewershardware.com/16-Stainless-Steel-Thermowell.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thermowells&lt;/a&gt; for housing temperature sensors. These are 3/8&quot; OD, 16&quot; long. Do I need a thermowell in this case for measuring wort temperature, or can I put the temperature sensor directly into the wort without the thermowell? Here's why I'm unsure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the thermowell page talks about protecting the temperature sensor, yet the stainless tube on the temperature sensor is made using the same process as the thermowell, so it's ok to immerse the stainless part of the sensor directly in the wort?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;most grommets for airlocks are 3/8&quot; size, making the thermowell a perfect fit. Are there 1/4&quot; grommets that would fit the temperature probe? A quick search didn't find anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just some background info - I will also be measuring ambient temperatures as well as wort temperature, and understand the issues involved with temperature control based on the wort temperature due to the large thermal mass. I'm curious to see in practice how much fermentation temperatures rise above ambient over the entire fermentation period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T14:17:11.707" Title="do I need a thermowell with stainless temperature sensor?" Tags="|temperature-control|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2012-03-03T19:14:43.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel the best way is to not use a hop bag. Take your hops for dry hopping out of the fridge 24 hrs before you want to add them. That will allow the oils to warm up and increase the aroma potential. I boil a small amount of water then let it cool to &quot;warm&quot;. Add the hops dry, to a sanitized jar or measuring cup. Then add just enough water to cover the hops. Let the hops get all mushy (~3-5 min), swirl and add the hop slurry to your secondary. I have had amazing success with this method, a real noticeable difference between using a hop bag and letting them float free. I find the hops settle to the bottom and generally stay there when racking off to bottles or a keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T19:14:43.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6539" CreationDate="2012-03-03T19:49:48.467" Score="4" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tomorrow is the Big Bottling Day. I snuck a peek about a week ago and took a hydro reading, and all is well I believe. I took another peek today (14 days in) just to make sure I'm not about to bottle a mess, and I just wanted some confirmation that what I'm seeing is ok (and not symptoms of mold or contamination), considering the difference between last pic and this pic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's ~7 days into it: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/rgoodwin/6932711321/in/set-72157629461259769&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/rgoodwin/6932711321/in/set-72157629461259769&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's today: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/rgoodwin/6949595183/in/photostream&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/rgoodwin/6949595183/in/photostream&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was some temperature fluctation, but I've tried to keep it no higher than 72. In the past couple of days I got it down towards 69...maybe it's some renewed fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I pull the lid on the pail, I definitely get the &quot;whoosh&quot;/hiss sound of CO2 coming out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your advice!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;Bottling is done! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/rgoodwin/sets/72157629148787580/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/rgoodwin/sets/72157629148787580/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG is right at 1.011, with the acceptable range being 1.010-1.012. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I opened the primary this time, there was no &quot;whoosh&quot; or feel of air escaping. Also it seems all the big bubbles were gone and down into a ton of tiny bubbles. They dissipated quickly while racking to the bottling bucket. That makes me pretty hopeful it's not a solid (like a mold or yeasts still stuck together etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Samples smell like a perfect ale. Taste tested by 3 people, all found it tasty, if not particularly &quot;complex&quot;. I know the carbonation/conditioning process can change the flavor characteristics...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got 21 22oz bottles full, and about 5 normal size to be &quot;flavor/carb check&quot; victims. About 1/2 gallon left in the bottling bucket when we stopped; it just had too many solids and I didn't have a proper screen or way to filter them. It's definitely starting to become clear the advantage of a secondary to help refine/filter, or at least trying to filter while going to bottling bucket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatcha think guys?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2212" LastEditorUserId="2212" LastEditDate="2012-03-04T23:08:58.397" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T23:08:58.397" Title="New brewer, question about state of beer prior to bottling" Tags="|troubleshooting|ale|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6535" CreationDate="2012-03-03T20:26:30.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's good news and bad news here. The good news is that if you bottle your beer tomorrow and drink it within the next few weeks, then it should still be ok, maybe with a touch of sourness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad news is that does look like contamination. Your photo mentions &quot;flavor bubbles&quot;. Often there are fine bubbles from the CO2, like in your first photo, but not as large as those in the second photo. Contamination sometimes produces a film (pellicle) on top of the beer which traps the CO2 to produce large bubbles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would bottle in plastic soda bottles rather than glass just to be on the safe side, since we don't know what the cause of the contamination is. (If pushed to guess, brettanomyces.) If it is still fermenting, you'll end up with bottle bombs. The bubbles could be renewed fermentation, but not by the yeast you originally pitched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised you're getting a &quot;CO2 whoosh&quot; when you open the bucket - are you using an airlock? With an airlock there isn't any significant pressure difference inside the bucket that would cause gas to rush out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a very similar thing thing happen about 6 months ago to 4 batches. I'm guessing weak yeast, and opening the fermentor too often was the cause of my contamination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing harmful can grow in beer, so don't be afraid of at least tasting it, and hopefully bottling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-03T20:46:57.693" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T20:46:57.693" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6538" CreationDate="2012-03-03T20:27:31.477" Score="2" ViewCount="898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently about 2 weeks into the primary fermentation a black stout to which I added 8oz of unsweetened cacao powder during the boil.  The gravity seems to be stuck at 1.022 rather than the 1.014-1.018 that was predicted by the recipe.  It doesn't seem that far off of the predicted gravity so I wonder if the chocolate could make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would adding the cacao affect the final gravity of the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2185" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T20:42:23.067" Title="Will Adding Chocolate Affect the Final Gravity?" Tags="|final-gravity|chocolate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6537" CreationDate="2012-03-03T20:42:23.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some elements in the chocolate are dispersed throughout the beer, so it does affect the FG in principle, but not by any appreciable amount. 8oz in 5 gallons would be much less than 1 gravity point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be a stuck ferment, or that your FG realy is 1.022 due to unfermentables. Try rousing the yeast a little and raising the temperature by 5F/2C which may help get it started again. You could also try a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/forced-fermentation-test.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forced fermentation test&lt;/a&gt; to see what the real FG is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, check the attenuation of your yeast strain - 1.022 is not so far off 1.018 - and well within the range of attenuation of different strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T20:42:23.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6535" CreationDate="2012-03-04T03:01:02.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It basically looks completely fine to me. From the pictures its impossible to tell if its contaminated.  As long as your sanitation was good before the wort went in, and you kept it closed for the first 7 days, I am sure its fine.&#xA;If the temp has been swinging a little bit its normal for the bubbles on top as CO2 is trying to escape as it got warmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your gravity is steady now you are probably good to go for bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T03:01:02.000" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6541" CreationDate="2012-03-04T16:58:47.770" Score="2" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used leaf hops in my boil and did not filter them out when I transferred to primary. I thought it'd be like pellet hops, which settle down into the yeast cake. This is not the case, though. They stayed floating on top and were all up in my krausen etc. Fermentation seems to be progressing nicely, but i'd like to know if this will add more IBUs or aroma to my beer. I'd like to know this so that the next time I brew this recipe, I can know whether to expect a different hop profile or not by filtering out the leaf hops (or using pellet hops). The leafs where 25 min additions, I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2215" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T17:43:33.627" Title="Leaf Hops in Primary" Tags="|boil|primary|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6540" CreationDate="2012-03-04T17:43:33.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the whole, this is nothing to worry about.  If they're 25 minute hops, then you may still get a slight change in flavor profile, since there are still flavor compounds that have not been completely boiled off, but not as much as if you'd used flameout hops. You'll not get any more IBUs, since that requires boiling, but you can get some astringency from polyphenols in the hops which can taste similar to bitterness for some people, but it's not usually much at all. You may also get a some aroma, but not much. As an upside, you'll also get better head retention, since the polyphenols contribute to foam stability (they combine with proteins in the wort to stabilize the foam.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd be most concerned about (apart from the fun you're going to have avoiding sucking up the hops when you rack) is that you'll also get some strong grassy flavors if you leave the hops in for more than a couple of weeks. Taste the beer after 7 days and see how you like it. If you choose to keep it in, then taste again after 10-11 days then 2 weeks. After 2 weeks rack and bottle/keg as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you rack off, you might want to tie a sanitized grain bag around the base of the racking cane, that should make it a bit easier. Leaf hops in a racking cane are almost impossible to get out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, just let it ride for 7 days, then have a taste of your gravity sample and decide how you want to handle it from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T17:43:33.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6544" CreationDate="2012-03-05T13:20:01.987" Score="7" ViewCount="941" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably a foolish one, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can force carbonate with a keg (or sugar carbonate, but of course why would you), and then serve from the keg with the CO2 to help dispense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if one wanted to get a couple of kegs but only a single CO2 tank, is that a normal manageable setup? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would conjecture that the procedure is: ferment (in primary), carbonate in keg (either priming or force), dispense (for keg 1). Then is it acceptable practice to repeat into keg 2 (3, et al) by removing the tank from keg 1 and using it on 2, and 3, and then simply moving the tank back to whichever one you want to dispense from when you are ready? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e. does there need to be a constant tank hookup (I would think no, the keg itself is air and pressure tight?), or can you make the most of your investment by cycling through a tank or two to pull off beer from multiple kegs as desired? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Clarified that I meant ferment in the primary, NOT in the keg!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2212" LastEditorUserId="2212" LastEditDate="2012-03-05T21:46:08.223" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T21:46:08.223" Title="Keg/CO2 question as I think about moving to kegging" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|keg|co2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6542" CreationDate="2012-03-05T13:33:10.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe a more common solution rather than unhooking whichever keg you are currently dispensing is to purchase two pressure regulators. This way, you can set one up to your carbing pressure, and another one up to your dispensing pressure. Finally, you would connect each respective regulator up to a manifold that would allow you to pressurize X numbers of kegs at once from that one single regulator. This is the path I plan to take when I attempt a 5-tap keezer build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2215" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T13:33:10.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6542" CreationDate="2012-03-05T13:37:48.877" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get away with juggling the CO2 between the kegs. But it quickly becomes a pain. (I did it for a short time before building a keezer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the carb/dispense pressure is going to be the same for most of your kegs, then you just need a way to split the CO2 from your regulator to multiple lines. You can use a Wye, or better, a manifold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCkJp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CO2 manifold&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see yourself in time wanting to carb to different pressures, e.g. to serve a British ale alongside a pils, or a highly carbed Weissbier, then secondary regulators is the way to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WcKE7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each secondary can be set to it's own pressure (upto the pressure of the primary regulator.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can combine manifolds and secondary regulators. For example, in my keezer, I have the CO2 tank outside, with the primary regulator. Inside the keezer is a 4 way secondary regulator, with each connected to a 3 or 4 way manifold to dispense 12 kegs. There's also a manifold connected to the beer gas inlet. With this, it's possible to serve pretty much any style of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T13:37:48.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6048" CreationDate="2012-03-05T14:01:50.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with brewchez's comment about fixing the process, and that should be done to avoid recurrence of the problem. For me, I will go back to batch sparging. However, before dumping 10 gallons of tea-beer, I wanted to find out if I could remove some of the astringency. And it seems you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used gelatin to clear the beer in one of the kegs, and left the other keg alone as a control. After a week, the astringency was greatly reduced in the gelatined keg, but not so in the other keg. The astringency is not 100% gone - it's there if you look for it - but it's below some of the other flavors. The beer is now enjoyable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T14:01:50.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6546" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-05T14:38:57.397" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-03-05T14:38:57.397" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T14:38:57.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6547" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-05T14:38:57.397" Score="0" Body="Carbon-dioxide - an odorless gas at room temperature. CO2 is a byproduct of fermentation and provides carbonation when forced into solution in a beverage.  Dispensing pressure is typically provided by CO2." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-03-05T21:58:18.053" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T21:58:18.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6549" CreationDate="2012-03-05T17:28:57.933" Score="4" ViewCount="1344" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just read an article about a NYC &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastingtable.com/entry_detail/nyc/7539/The_Growler_Station_introduces_plastic_bottles_for_beer.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beer hall filling 2-liter plastic soda bottles&lt;/a&gt; instead of glass growlers. I wouldn't expect this to make a significant difference over 24 hrs, but is there any chance this might affect the flavor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the risk of skunking by light through the clear container, what about other flavors? While many of us use plastic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.better-bottle.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BetterBottles&lt;/a&gt;, they claim to use a special plastic with &quot;No tastes or odors&quot; and &quot;no carry over flavors&quot;. What of these problems would a 2-liter suffer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastEditorUserId="1444" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T14:05:21.507" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T14:05:21.507" Title="Will using a 2-liter soda bottle as a growler affect flavor?" Tags="|storage|off-flavor|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6548" CreationDate="2012-03-05T19:16:59.860" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I got kegs, I used to bottle with 1.5 liter &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_terephthalate&quot;&gt;PET&lt;/a&gt; soda bottles (the standard size in Norway.) The beer tasted fine, even after several months, and no hint of soda. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to soak them for 24-48 hours to remove the labels, then clean thoroughly with PBW or OxiClean. Then sanitize with StarSan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this, there is no odor from the bottles and, as far as I could tell, no transferrence of flavor, even after being stored for several months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the BetterBottles, soda bottles are also made of PET, so if you trust the BetterBottles, then no reason not to also trust the soda bottles. PET has a &quot;1&quot; for the recycling symbol so you can easily check if the soda bottle is PET (most, if not all, are.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-05T22:49:35.773" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T22:49:35.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6552" CreationDate="2012-03-06T01:40:32.063" Score="3" ViewCount="2005" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in learning some of the intricacies associated with 'real ale'. I realize that out in industry, this is done in large stainless steel (or aluminum?) barrels with special corks etc etc in order to achieve the desired level of carbonation and aging. My question is, has it been attempted to replicate this keg conditioning using a corny keg, aside from simply adding priming sugar and letting it carb? Would a first attempt at this be as simple as hooking up a pressure relief of some sort to the CO2-in port, and letting it sit at 58F (ish) for awhile, or is the cask conditioning process much more involved than this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2215" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T02:31:48.400" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T11:44:40.843" Title="Corny Real Ale?" Tags="|conditioning|ale|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6550" CreationDate="2012-03-06T02:34:55.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is really as simple as putting in some priming sugar and letting it go to &quot;keg condition&quot; for carbonation.&#xA;In a true real ale situation you might rack from primary to keg when there is still &amp;lt;10% of the sugar remaining.  In this case you are not adding any priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's nothing more to it than sealing the keg and getting the beer to carbonate on the trapped pressure.  Just like bottling.  A measured amount of sugar will produce a measured about of CO2 and carbonation.  No need to hook up a &quot;pressure relief of some sort&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T02:34:55.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6550" CreationDate="2012-03-06T02:59:17.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Real Ale, that's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;beer brewed from traditional ingredients, matured by secondary fermentation in the container from which it is dispensed, and served without the use of extraneous carbon dioxide&quot;. (CAMRA)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As homebrewers, we can emulate this by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not pasturizing our beer...(ok that was easy!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;preparing the corny for use as secondary/fining/dispensing vessel by shortening the liquid out tube so not to pick up sediment, and adding a &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/16772/102301/Ball_Lock_QD_Adjustable_Pressure_Valve_W_Gauge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pressure relief&lt;/a&gt; on the CO2 in port.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;racking from primary directly to the keg. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using finings to clear the beer rather than a filter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Optionally using pure nitrogen rather than CO2 to dispense, so avoiding the &quot;extraneous CO2&quot; part. (Personally, I'm not a purist, so I'd probably just use CO2, set to keep the volumes of CO2 in the 1.2-1.4 range.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of what we do as homebrewers is similar to traditional methods since we're not trying to  or have the means to exploit economy of scale or produce sterile, filtered beer. For the most part, producing real ale can be a lot like normal homebrewing in kegs, apart from not using forced carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending upon how you naturally carbonate the beer, the pressure relief is optional. If you rack when the gravity is 4 points above final, then you don't need a pressure relief valve - the residual fermentables is the right amount to provide the appropriate level of carbonation at fermentation temperature (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.posbeer.org/oppaat/real-ale/cask-ales.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case where we don't know the exact FG or we hit final gravity before racking, then the pressure relief valve is the way to go. Set it from usual keg pressure charts according to the cellar temperature (typical 55-60F) and aim for 1.2-1.4 vols of CO2. If final gravity was reached, then add priming sugar. You can also add priming sugar even if FG wasn't reached - any excess CO2 will be bled off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem with natural carbonation in a keg is that sometimes the corny lid doesn't seal - it takes a blast of CO2 or N2 to get a complete seal so the CO2 produced from fermentation is kept in the keg. Again, if you use CO2, that's more &quot;extraneous CO2&quot;, but it's a personal choice if you think this will affect the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T11:44:40.843" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T11:44:40.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6559" CreationDate="2012-03-06T04:12:44.770" Score="7" ViewCount="7802" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do normal corks and normal corkers work with them? Is there a greater risk of breaking the neck of the bottle during corking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T19:12:24.557" Title="Is it possible to cork screw-top wine bottles?" Tags="|bottling|wine|bottles|cork|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4336" CreationDate="2012-03-06T05:52:49.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a Letters to the Editor article in Zymurgy a couple months back and the author confirmed that tossing freshly used hops out to within reach of dogs is a patently bad idea, as mentioned by others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, just beer? I defer to the expertise of others, but I recall our dog, a Hungarian Vizsla, drinking beer dribbled from her previous owner's inverted bottle (as seen in home movies - yes, I'm dating myself) while out hunting and she was fine. This is entirely different from putting down a bowl of beer, I should point out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About all I can do here is quote Buddha: &quot;Everything in moderation, even moderation.&quot; ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But seriously, if you have ANY concerns, just avoid it altogether. I agree with another poster's comment regarding the less hoppy offerings as being 'safer'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2030" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T05:52:49.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6485" CreationDate="2012-03-06T06:00:12.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a Little Creatures Pale Ale clone (put down Dec 27) which required dry hopping. I'm not into secondary fermentation (yet) so I daringly cracked open the primary at some point (tempted to say it was well past 10 days) and gingerly plopped in a mesh bag which a) contained the required dry hops and b) contained some glass marbles which I'd taken the time to sterilize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only been brewing since Nov 2011, but to date that LCPA clone seems to be universally the most preferred beer, to myself, and my friends. (What I've done: 1) Pale Ale based on a Cooper's kit, b) LCPA clone, c) generic Hefeweizen, d) ESB, e) Belgian Tripel.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that so long as you think you can manage to keep the breezes and local air eddies to a minimum (mine was literally sitting in a closet when I dry hopped), you should be in good shape. Likely you want to keep the CO2 loss to a minimum, as that helps to protect your beer from going in unexpected directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2030" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T06:00:12.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6556" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-06T07:51:48.963" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T07:51:48.963" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T07:51:48.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6557" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-06T07:51:48.963" Score="0" Body="The stage after primary fermentation where the beer is clarified, stabilized and matured. After conditioning, the beer is ready for packaging." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-07T00:42:52.240" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T00:42:52.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6533" CreationDate="2012-03-06T14:17:11.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the stainless part of the probe is the only part that will be in the liquid, I believe you will not need a thermowell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thermowell is generally used to protect a non-submersible probe or thermocouple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9u0kG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewing.lustreking.com/gear/tempcontroller.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also good for getting deeper into the carboy than your probe will allow.  E.g. I use a 24&quot; thermowell in my conical to reach the center of 10 gallons of liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OPgBp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for grommets, head to your local big box store.  You can normally find a bag of assorted grommets for a buck or two.  Check in the electrical stuff aisle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T14:17:11.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6553" CreationDate="2012-03-06T14:21:42.113" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The neck on the screw cap bottles is exposed to much less stress than a cork bottle, so they are made thinner, and consequently cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can and should you do it?  This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f25/can-screw-top-bottles-corked-216319/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt; on HBT sums it up nicely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of trains of thought with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;physically, in most cases, it can be done&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it doesn't have the greatest presentation, if that's not an issue for you, then ok&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the glass at the threads is more prone to breakage, be careful&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;getting the cork out can sometimes be a problem because you don't have the thick glass&#xA;to pry against.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only you can decide if it's worth the expense or effort to get cork wine bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several other posts on the same page claiming it can be done, but ideally only as a last resort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T19:33:08.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-06T15:10:26.727" Score="0" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I am quite the nerd, and one of the things I nerd about is the law in general, and in particular the legal standing of specific things around the world, such as photography, copyright and homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is pretty clear, but I would love some historical background, too, if you have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T21:31:19.687" Title="What is the legal status of Homebrewing where you live?" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-03-07T00:44:25.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6560" CreationDate="2012-03-06T15:16:12.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here in NJ, we needed a $20/year permit to homebrew.  Just this year, the governor signed a law removing that permit, so we can brew up to the federal limit (100 gals/year for an individual, 200/year for a household) legally without any permits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T15:16:12.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6724" CreationDate="2012-03-06T15:46:26.683" Score="1" ViewCount="1874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I collected a lot of six pack boxes to put bottles of homebrew in.  Now, I've got a better container.  Since I can't recycle six pack boxes, is there anything I could do with them other than throw them out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1859" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T20:18:48.337" Title="What to Do with Six Pack Boxes" Tags="|environment|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-28T00:59:00.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6562" CreationDate="2012-03-06T16:14:37.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since recycling won't take them, you might try talking to the store you bought the 6-packs from originally. Every liquor store I have been in has a &quot;build your own 6-pack&quot; option from their singles, and they have a basket of those boxes sitting out for people to use for their selection. They might be willing to take them back to reuse for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will note that I have never tried this before, but it seems reasonable that they would take at least a few.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T16:14:37.130" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-28T00:59:00.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6562" CreationDate="2012-03-06T20:46:12.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Next time you're at your local brew shop see if they'll take em off your hands. They might leave them as a freebie for anyone who wants to take em.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brew shop I go to sometimes has used equipment left by brewers for cheap or free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MoreBeer sells blank 6 pack carriers for $0.95, so there's probably a homebrewer who'd pick em up.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/15640/102304/6_Pack_Carrier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://morebeer.com/view_product/15640/102304/6_Pack_Carrier&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2158" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T20:46:12.767" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-28T00:59:00.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6560" CreationDate="2012-03-06T21:31:19.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before asking about maybe it would be good to consult the oracle (i.e. google):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/government-affairs/statutes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/government-affairs/statutes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T21:31:19.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6592" CreationDate="2012-03-07T00:15:10.657" Score="13" ViewCount="56197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in making a hard lemonade after my cider is done, but I'm having a tough time figuring out how the recipes I've found actually work, and what's the best way to ferment lemon juice.  What I'm looking at doing is grabbing some good organic lemon juice from Whole Paycheck, adding some kind of sugar (agave nectar, cane sugar, whatever...), then throwing on yeast and walking away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, yeast like an acidic environment (pH 4.5-5.5), but not as acidic as lemon juice or lemonade (ph 2-3), so I'm confused on how to build my mash if I need to compensate for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the pH something I really need to worry about when making a hard lemonade?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I add water to bring my pH up, it seems like it will take a ton of water since that's also slightly acidic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to add something like baking soda to bring my pH up, and to what level?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if it does ferment without adding anything, will the environment cause unwanted flavors or other effects?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Mark&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2196" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T16:43:32.890" Title="How does lemon juice ferment into hard lemonade?" Tags="|fermentation|recipe-formulation|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6568" CreationDate="2012-03-07T01:45:51.997" Score="2" ViewCount="1787" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my second batch of wort. My first went so smoothly I decided to start another in the primary after racking the fisrt over to the carboy. It's been sitting in the primary now for 24hrs and there is no &quot;krausen&quot; forming on the top like my previous batch had done within just a few hours. OG was 1.045 (same as the first) when poured and the temperature has been consistant at 19c-20c (same as the first). There is a thin layer of white foam on the surface which im assuming is the remains of the foam created by pouring the wort and the yeast that was pitched. Also, unlike my fisrt batch there is no temperatrure increse that was caused by the fermenting process, further leading me to believe that there is nothing happening and that something is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The style of beer is different; The fisrt was a Canadian light beer and this one is a golden blonde ale. I'm not sure if that makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please Help...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; It's been about 30 hrs now and the Krausen has magically appeared. There is however a small area where it hasn't formed yet and is about 2&quot; thick everywhere else. I'm assuming this isn't a problem... I'm also assuming, to compensate the late start of the yeast, I should keep it in primary for a little longer then perscribed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2223" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T16:16:49.417" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T16:16:49.417" Title="New batch of wort in primary for 24hrs now and no &quot;krausen&quot; forming. Trouble?" Tags="|wort|primary|krausen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6567" CreationDate="2012-03-07T02:27:51.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The the layer of bubble might be the beginning of krausen, or it might be, as you suggest, the foam left over from pouring the wort into the fermenter. I'd advise giving it another 24 hours. If there's no activity, pitch more yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T02:27:51.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2012-03-07T19:52:58.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've learned the hard way that Grain looses it's freshness after about 12 months and becomes stale tasting after 24 months. (I took a break from brewing for 2 years, and started back using my existing grain stock. Couldn't figure out why the first few batches tasted so...meh, but figured out eventually that it was the old grain.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grain stales quicker when left exposed to air (oxygen) and moisture. If you think you'll use the grain within 6-12 months, then a trash can is fine. Longer than that, and you should probably consider something that its airtight. To keep grain in the freshest possible condition, use an airtight bucket and some oxygen absorbers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For speciality grains, which are typically used less and hang around longer than base malt, I use a foodsaver and package in 0.5lb and 1lb quantities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6289/gamma-seal-lids-and-b3-buckets&quot;&gt;Airtight gamma seal lids and buckets&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T19:52:58.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6571" CreationDate="2012-03-07T19:58:58.513" Score="2" ViewCount="1372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there is a substantial amount of debate regarding whether to use DME or corn sugar or table sugar to bottle prime, but I wanted to ask the question if priming with simple glucose, can perceivable off-flavors be introduced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tasted a bit of an IPA I made prior to priming, and i was a clean, neutral, hop-forward with some malt flavor.  Then I bottle-primed and noticed something very similar to other beers I have made.  Its almost a cidery/green apple flavor that other people can't necessarily notice but is unmistakeable to me, and was NOT present prior to me bottling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other possibility is, I will often (and did in this case), add my dissolved sugar syrup to the bottlin bucket AFTER I rack the entire batch to my bottling bucket.  I pour the sugar solution VERY slowly down the side of the bottling bucket to minimize oxidation (but maybe still get some?).  I do this because all of my fermenters/secondaries aren't marked for volume, and I want to be precise in calculating the weight of the priming sugar.  I know that oxidation typically tastes like cardboard though, and not acetaldehyde.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firkin specialist at a local brewery told me to NEVER prime with corn sugar, and always prime with DME.  He says the former &quot;just gives it that homebrew flavor&quot;.  However, I've heard that DME can be incredibly imprecise when used for priming.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T14:32:41.220" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T14:32:41.220" Title="Corn Sugar Off Flavors" Tags="|bottling|priming|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-03-08T12:39:42.640" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6570" CreationDate="2012-03-07T21:19:06.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do believe you when you say it tastes different, but... I'm sure you know it's not a good idea to draw conclusions based on one occurrence! - It could be the sugar, or the process, or something else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer has been in the bottle less than a week then it could be actelaldehyde from fermentation, so you can simply leave it and that will be metabolized by the yeast when the sugars are done, if the temperature is still appropriate for the yeast strain. Although note that &quot;old&quot; yeast have a harder time absorbing it - it gets stuck in the cell, so that at the end of fermentation inside:outside concentration is 10:1. That's why pitching fresh fermenting yeast can clean up the aldehyde much better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention oxidization, but didn't think it's that because of the taste. Acetalaldehyde, aka ethanal, is oxidized ethanol, so if you did oxidize the beer, or at least, the alcohol in the beer, then that's a possible outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to be more certain it was the corn sugar, next time, bottle half the batch with corn sugar, and the other half with DME and see if there is a difference then. Ideally, do this over several brews, and see if a pattern emerges, while also trying to ensure the process is as equivalent as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a theoretical level, it's hard to see there would be a difference. The metabolic pathway for yeast fermenting maltose has only one extra step compared with fermenting glucose/corn sugar - the application of the maltase enzyme to hydrolize the disaccaride into two glucose units. Apart from that, the rest of the pathway (glycosis) is the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that after a big ferment, the yeast were unable to absorb the acetaldehyde produced by the priming sugar, something that could happen regardless of what type of priming sugar you use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://biochemie.web.med.uni-muenchen.de/Yeast_Biol/03%20Yeast%20Metabolism.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;metabolism of non-hexose carbon sources, Yeast Metabolism&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first few &lt;a href=&quot;http://aem.asm.org/content/70/4/1913.full#ref-32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;paragraphs&lt;/a&gt; describe acetaldehyde intracell concentration increases, and how it affects reproduction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T00:47:06.607" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T00:47:06.607" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2012-03-07T22:08:36.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great post on exactly this topic yesterday with lots of options on homebrewfinds:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2012/03/storage-options-base-grain-specialty.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2012/03/storage-options-base-grain-specialty.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like a very good and cheap option is 5 gallon buckets with gamma seal lids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T22:08:36.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6573" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-07T22:48:15.070" Score="0" ViewCount="1101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I posted a &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5936/combating-diacetyl&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; here before about what I decided was an 'extract twang' flavor. I tried a bottle from batch #2 yesterday, and I noticed the same thing. Here's where it gets interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brew has only been in the bottle about at week so far, and the situation was the same last time I noticed this, so I'm beginning to think that the flavor is potentially from unconsumed priming sugar. Could that be? Also, I found the carbonation level to be just fine, and I'm worried about over-carbonation if there is still priming sugar left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same fear for my &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5955/variable-carbonation&quot;&gt;last batch&lt;/a&gt; and decided to refrigerate it in order to stop the yeast from carbonating further. This ended up causing around a third of the bottles to be under-carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if this is priming sugar related, would I be better off stopping the carbonation now, risking slightly sweet/flat beer, or should I continue letting it rest, and risk bottle bombs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2005" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T23:09:43.737" Title="Bottle carbonation - too much priming sugar?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|priming-sugar|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-07T22:58:25.580" Score="2" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing beer tonight (in roughly three hours) and I've decided to try rehydrating my dry yeast instead of throwing it directly into the cooled wort. If I boil a couple cups of water, how long does it usually take to get down to 90 degrees so I can pitch the yeast into it? How long can I keep the yeast in the water? How/when do you guys rehydrate your dry yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2226" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T23:36:30.517" Title="When should I hydrate my dry yeast?" Tags="|yeast|dry-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6573" CreationDate="2012-03-07T23:09:43.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that you reacted too quickly during your first batch. From what I understand, there is a point during the carbonation process were the carbon that is created can build in the airspace at the top of the bottle before the beer absorbs it. This could explain the amount of carbon released when you cracked the cap and the lack of carbon once you froze your batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could crack a beer every week or so to monitor the batch. It's a good excuse to to get a few into you and you dont have to risk freezing too early. Just a thought ;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2223" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T23:09:43.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6574" CreationDate="2012-03-07T23:36:30.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends upon the type of container you're using, how much water, geometry, material etc. In a glass jar, the water could stay warm for a couple of hours. In a stainless steel jug (I use) it takes about 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is instead is boil some water now and put that in a covered sanitary container. The water should cool to below 90F before you're done brewing in 3 hours. At pitching time, use a thermometer to check the temperature of the water, and add more boiled water to bring it back up to 90F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rehydrating yeast is beneficial to your yeast. You can lose up to 40% of the cells by not rehydrating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T23:36:30.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6578" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-08T00:11:51.377" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T00:11:51.377" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T00:11:51.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6579" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-08T00:11:51.377" Score="0" Body="Yeast that has been dehydrated. Commercially produced dry yeast has a longer shelf life than liquid yeast (1-2 years vs 4 months) although it is not available in as many strains. One 11gram sachet of ale yeast, or 2 sachets of lager yeast is sufficient for a 5-6 gallon batch." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T03:09:58.080" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T03:09:58.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6580" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-08T00:16:22.167" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T00:16:22.167" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T00:16:22.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6581" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-08T00:16:22.167" Score="0" Body="The harvested seeds of various grass-related crops, such as barley, wheat and corn. Grains are usually malted, flaked, or roasted before being used by the brewer. Grains comprise the majority of the grist in an all-grain brew." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T03:10:35.490" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T03:10:35.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6582" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-08T00:19:27.203" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T00:19:27.203" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T00:19:27.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6583" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-08T00:19:27.203" Score="0" Body="sugar (usually corn sugar, table sugar or malt extract) that is added to the beer at bottling time to carbonate the beer. " OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T03:10:32.980" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T03:10:32.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2012-03-08T02:14:45.710" Score="10" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Repitition, Repitition, Repitition&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest leap in quality and consistency for myself was setting up an area where the brewing process becomes routine. This has many benifits, the biggest of which is an increase on success rate for a clean, uninfected home brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it as almost a production line. I'm lucky enough to have a room i can dedicate exclusivly to brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting off with a sanitization area where all my equipment can be cleaned and preped for use. This surface is the height of my &amp;quot;Strike zone&amp;quot; (the area at which tasks are carried out with the least amount of strain on the body). The advantage here is a relativly effortless cleaning process that cuts down cleaning time, but most of all makes it easier to fight the urge to cut corners which could lead to ruining my brew.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next to this is a shelf where my tray of sanitized equipment, wort, yeast and any other ingredients can lay as I start the primary. which is already at the level (Strike Zone) required for racking into the carboy later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Underneith this station hides said carboy which was cleaned with the other equipment at the start of fermentation and sealed. Now when the primary is finished I sanitize, rinse and rack. When in the carboy, the primary and all used equipment have been cleaned and stored underneith, where the carboy once sat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally we have our cabinet of clean bottles waiting to be filled. They're pre-cleaned and ready for sanitation. Grolsch bottles of course, so no caps or machine required for capping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this sounds extensive? The scale of this 'massive' production line is a whopping 8&amp;quot; at most. It may sound silly to have such a setup but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;im never out of arms reach from anything I need for each process. So there is no searching for that elusive bottle of Diversol or running off because I forgot something.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eliminates transporting my freshly sanitized equipment from my bathroom/kitchen to my brew station and collecting any nasties along the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of the work becomes much easier, so starting a batch requires about as much thought as cracking a bottle from the last brew.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Last but not least: Ive increased my seccess rate and consistency&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2223" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T16:04:44.500" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-08T02:14:45.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-08T03:37:07.500" Score="9" ViewCount="7565" Body="&lt;p&gt;Used corny kegs came from the soda industry, but stocks seem to be drying up pretty quickly. Prices have gone up from $20 per reconditioned keg about 4 years ago to around $50 today (some are asking that just for used kegs.) Outlets that I've previously used don't have any kegs, altough I've managed to find one reseller offering a resonable price. What happens when the supply dries up completely? What's the future in kegging with cornies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I'm looking for tangible, factual answers rather than opinions - alternative systems, estimates of how many used kegs are still to be released and other facts to support investing in a keg system now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="490" LastEditDate="2012-03-09T20:26:52.843" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T22:28:08.687" Title="What's causing the recent spike in the price of used Corny kegs?" Tags="|kegging|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-09T12:40:26.987" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6585" CreationDate="2012-03-08T03:50:42.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple. Manufacturers need to recognize the demand. They may transition to just a homebrew  offering, but where there's demand there's business to be had. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2227" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T03:50:42.117" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-09T12:40:26.987" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6585" CreationDate="2012-03-08T04:06:09.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Black market? It is a good question, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 4 in rotation at home, and another 6 or so that need a good sterlizing/de-botulizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now that postmix comes in bags, does anyone actually make kegs? Some sites have them listed as &quot;brand new&quot; but they're well over $120, and I haven't even looked in a couple years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The don't cost THAT much to make. Hell, I'll find a manufacturer and start my own business if that's the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T04:06:09.503" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-09T12:40:26.987" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6585" CreationDate="2012-03-08T06:08:14.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The local craft breweries in my area (Victoria, Canada) package their beer in 18.5 litre kegs fitted for Sankey couplers. (In fact, just today I picked up a keg of Driftwood Fat Tug IPA for the office keggerator.) I haven't looked for a brand stamp, but someone is manufacturing kegs that are the right size of home brewers. Surely the breweries will get rid of their old stock at some point. At that point, it's a matter of reconditioning just like we do with the Corny kegs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We might have to switch to Sankey couplers, but I don't expect the supply of small kegs to disapear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T06:08:14.017" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-09T12:40:26.987" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6567" CreationDate="2012-03-08T15:43:10.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the things that you can do to really improve flocculation, and yeast viability is to make starters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a great pitching rate calculator: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making a starter is a very simple process but does require a little pre-planning. There are a lot of resources online explaining the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this will help you in your brewing adventures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2230" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T15:43:10.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5946" CreationDate="2012-03-08T17:33:47.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased an &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004OQQRTY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;adjustable temp submersible heater&lt;/a&gt; which I used to keep a cooler of water warm while I grew koji spores on rice for making sake. It worked quite well and being able to adjust the temp right on the heater made life easy. I think the lowest temp it can give is 72F though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T17:33:47.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6553" CreationDate="2012-03-08T17:45:05.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cork screw-top bottles all the time (I've been making wine for 4 years now) and have yet to have an issue with them. I use slightly narrower #8 corks for these bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastEditorUserId="2560" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T23:32:23.307" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T23:32:23.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6566" CreationDate="2012-03-08T18:41:12.747" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you haven't tossed the yeast cake from your Cider yet, you can make &lt;a href=&quot;http://skeeterpee.com/&quot;&gt;Skeeter Pee&lt;/a&gt;. You can also make it with a couple packets of Champagne yeast if you have tossed the cider yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want to ferment straight lemon juice, it's way too acidic for yeast and way to acidic for you to drink a glass of, lemonade is heavily diluted with water and sweetened with sugar. The skeeter pee recipe calls for 96oz of lemon juice to 4.5 gallons of water; so it is really diluted and it still tastes plenty lemony.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T18:41:12.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6566" CreationDate="2012-03-08T19:14:43.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The commercial &quot;hard lemonades&quot; are made by fermenting a malt base.  That's why it can be sold in grocery stores. If they used distilled alcohol it would be illegal in most states.  Then the fermented malt beverage is filtered within an inch of its life to remove pretty much all flavor and everything but the alcohol.  It is then flavored with artificial flavorings to make the &quot;hard lemonade&quot; you buy in stores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T19:14:43.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6585" CreationDate="2012-03-08T20:48:01.887" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Wayback Machine, we can track the increase in price of both new and used kegs. NorthernBrewer.com is a good resource for this because they've been around so long. (And they deserve it. You guys rock!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20050710084353/http://www.northernbrewer.com/draftsystem-kegs.html&quot;&gt;April 2001 to May 2006&lt;/a&gt;: New $95.00, Used: $30.00&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20090221120506/http://northernbrewer.com/kegs-disconnects.html&quot;&gt;May 2009&lt;/a&gt;: New $120, Used $35&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20100504121702/http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/kegging/soda-kegs-fittings&quot;&gt;May 2010&lt;/a&gt; - Unchanged at $130/$35&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/kegging/soda-kegs-fittings&quot;&gt;March 2012&lt;/a&gt; (present) - $130/$45&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, you're right that there's been a recent jump in prices. One would also posit that the jump in new keg prices between 2006 and 2009 is due to fewer new kegs getting manufactured for the soda market; soda is gigantic compared to homebrew, as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQBUzH6iXgM&quot;&gt;Warren Buffett&lt;/a&gt; can tell you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely that for years there were untapped reserves of used Corny kegs that could've been sold in bulk by soda distributors to finance conversion to the newer bagged systems for syrup. The less popular pin lock kegs have been keeping pace with the ball lock kegs. My recent research shows that the price of a pin lock keg plus a conversion kit was about five bucks short of the commercial price of a ball lock keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty efficient market, populated with people who are resourceful and thrifty enough to homebrew. We can be relatively sure that we're free of distortions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the supplies of refurb kegs dwindle, price goes up. As prices rise, there are a few inflection points. The first comes when the price of a refurbished keg rises to the point where a brewer sitting on unused kegs has significant incentive to take on the transaction cost of selling them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The price of gold has spiked recently. You might have a pair of earrings with no sentimental value that you wouldn't have bothered to sell when their half-ounce of gold would've netted you a hundred bucks, but now that they're worth four times that, you might get them appraised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lesser effect might be seen first with refurb kegs and then with &quot;used new&quot; kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut says that the first inflection point has to be around double the historical retail cost of $30. So, we'll see some downward pressure on used keg prices as people start remarking more and more about the cost of used kegs. I have to think this tops out at about $60. Here's why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kegs are a durable commodity good (one's basically as good as another, and a used one works roughly as well as a new one). I don't have ready numbers on expected premium for new vs. used durable goods, so I'll have to approximate here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now, we have a soda-surplus refurb keg around $50 and a brand new keg at $130. There's little reason for someone to resell their new keg, because they have to compete with all the other refurb kegs which also have the taint of prior ownership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As refurb kegs become more scarce, a different market opens up. Let's say you bought a new keg a year ago at retail for $130. If you asked $100 for it, which is a reasonable discount, the number of people clamoring to take your offer would depend heavily on the price of refurb kegs. Few would take it with refurb kegs at $50. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why pay double for something that's basically the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once refurb kegs hit $80, though, the thinking is different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What's an extra 20% for a better-quality keg with only one previous owner? It hasn't spent its life on trucks being bashed around by guys with &quot;Jerry&quot; embroidered on their jackets. It's been sitting in a guy's basement dispensing Simcoe pale ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving aside the question of whether new manufacturers will emerge and push down the price of brand new kegs, the likely ceiling for refurb kegs is around $70. Plenty of pressure from brewer resales on the way there, then competition from resale of never-used-for-soda kegs manufactured for brewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T20:48:01.887" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-09T12:40:26.987" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6598" CreationDate="2012-03-08T23:52:46.053" Score="21" ViewCount="19589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in buying a microscope that I can use to observe yeast cells.  Ideally, I'd like to use this to count cells in region and do calculations to get estimated populations (though I don't know how to do that yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if there is anything to be learned by looking at the interior of the yeast cell (not sure if there is from a home brew standpoint), then I'll need one powerful and clear enough for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I plan to multi-purpose the microscope for home learning and fun with my young children.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-09T15:59:35.293" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T02:57:17.300" Title="What Type and Power of Microscope For Observing Yeast Cells" Tags="|yeast|pitching-rate|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6595" CreationDate="2012-03-09T01:42:20.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;em&gt;Yeast&lt;/em&gt; (White &amp;amp; Zainasheff):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Microscope with 400X minimum magnification for counting yeast.  You want built-in illumination, adjustable condenser with aderture diaphragm control, mechanical stage, and binocular eyepiece.  Without x/y mechanical stgae controls, it is nearly impossibel to count cells.  While a phase contrast microscope may be better for imaging the fine details, a far less expensive bright field microscope is more than adequate for counting cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole section then goes on to talk about counting cells by performing a serial dilution to get a reasonable observable density of cells, and using a hemocytometer to actually do the count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to get into this stuff, that's a good book.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/first-steps-in-yeast-culture.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/first-steps-in-yeast-culture.html&lt;/a&gt; might also be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T01:42:20.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6562" CreationDate="2012-03-09T04:41:10.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you know anyone that likes to wash and/or detail their car(s), they could use the six-pack boxes to store their car-care products. It would be worth asking them if they would like to use your six-pack boxes for storing the bottles of products. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example of how i use them: I store the products that deal with interior in one six-pack box labeled &quot;Interior,&quot; the products for dealing with wheels and tires in one labeled &quot;Wheels,&quot; etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2233" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T04:41:10.923" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-28T00:59:00.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6595" CreationDate="2012-03-09T07:49:29.880" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been researching a microscope for the same purposes - counting yeast cells, determining viability and helping my children see the unseen.  For counting yeast cells and checking bacterial contamination, 400x is fine, but for enjoying with your kids some of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amscope.com/Slide.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;prepared slides&lt;/a&gt; that are available, you'll need more power - 800x or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U9UZR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went for this one - &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.amscope.com/t490b.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;T490B&lt;/a&gt; - as a balance of cost ($250) to features. Reviews on the net were mostly in favor. It's not a professional scope so some of the pros preferred the big names (Leica, Zeiss, Nikon and Olympus), but seems more than adequate for the hobbyist, but many steps up from the toy scopes provided with kids science kits. Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTyGAyfweJ8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; of the scope in action on youtube so you can see for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardware specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;400-2000x power&lt;/strong&gt;, more than enough for yeast work and exploring with the kids &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trinocular&lt;/strong&gt;, so you can view with your eyes and also with an attached &lt;strong&gt;camera&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;has a &lt;strong&gt;mechanical stage&lt;/strong&gt; so you can precisely move the slide around&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;coaxial fine/coarse focus&lt;/strong&gt; - the fine/coarse knobs are in the same place. Cheaper scopes have them separate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;compensation-free camera tube&lt;/strong&gt;: according to the manufacturer, some trinocular microscopes have to be refocused when switching between the eyepieces and the camera tube. This one doesn't require that. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To count cells, you use a slide with tiny etched squares, known as a cell counter, or hemocytometer. The etched squares are made to precise measurements, so the contained volume is known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHgFC.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;400&quot; alt=&quot;hemocytometer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At typical wort densities, 1 million cells per ml, corresponds to 100 cells in one large square, or 4 cells in each of the 25 central squares in the counting chamber. This is about the right concentration. At higher concentrations, you will need to dilute the sample to avoid overlapping cells. Use graduated pipettes (one up to 1-2ml the other to 25ml) to make accurate volumetric measurements. If you want to also test for viability, then use &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methylene_blue#Biology&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;methylene blue&lt;/a&gt; to dye the cells. The living cells repel the dye while the dead ones don't which makes them easier to distinguish. Cell count is number of cells per volume, so to ensure you have a known volume, use a cell counter (hemacytometer) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ruf.rice.edu/~bioslabs/methods/microscopy/cellcounting.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this protocol&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The option to have a USB camera on the microscope is useful, as you can then count cells directly from the computer screen. I imagine this is much less taxing on the eyes and body. There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://digital.bsd.uchicago.edu/resources_files/cell%20counting%20automated%20and%20manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;imaging programs&lt;/a&gt; that can help automate cell counting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optical_microscope#Compound_microscope&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Optical Microscope&lt;/a&gt;, Wikipedia. Describes the parts on the microscope and how to use it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/cell_count.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yeast Cell counting/Viability Testing&lt;/a&gt; - Whitelabs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I've not yet used the scope, it's still in shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-09T17:52:48.973" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T17:52:48.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6600" CreationDate="2012-03-09T17:52:25.360" Score="8" ViewCount="14449" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just fermented a 80 Shilling and thought I would try cold crashing for the first time. I dropped it from mid 60's to 38 or so in a 24 hour period and it sucked about 4 cups of sanitizer up the blow off tube and into my 5 gallon batch. The sanitizer was the usual dilution to half ounce per 5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;couple questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the beer safe to drink?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I re-pitch the yeast into another batch or is it damaged?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you prevent suckback when cold crashing???&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The sanitizer is StarSan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastEditorUserId="17139" LastEditDate="2019-03-05T18:28:21.203" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T16:21:06.607" Title="Sanitizer sucked back into beer, dangerous?" Tags="|beer|sanitizer|cold-crash|starsan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6599" CreationDate="2012-03-09T18:33:24.313" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the sanitizer was StarSan, then you'll be fine. At the usual concentration of 1oz per 5 gallons, it's safe  - even safe enough to drink. StarSan is phosphoric acid and surfactants - coke is also largely phosphoric acid and sugar, so the two are in someways similar. In a radio program, Charlie Talley,  5 star chemicals allegedly drank a glass of starsan, and he mentions that the yeast can also feed on it. (The phosphoric acid disassociates and the yeast absorb the phosphorus.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was iodophor, then it's only prudent to be concerned since iodine is toxic (to people and yeast) in high enough doses. However, after 24 hours most of the iodine will have degraded/evaporated. Was the solution still orange/brown color? I'm guessing not, and so you will be fine. But let's consider the worst case - that the solution was freshly made. 1/2oz iodophor to 5 gallons gives 12.5ppm. 4 cups (ca. 1 liter) contains 12.5mg of iodine, and that's what was added to the beer, so your 5 gallons of beer has 12.5mg of iodine in the whole batch. In a pint, that's 0.31mg of iodine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how many pints of iodine beer can you drink in a day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Iodine is an essential component of the thyroid hormones that are&#xA;  involved in the regulation of various enzymes and metabolic processes.&#xA;  Thyroid iodine accumulation and turnover were used to set the&#xA;  Estimated Average Requirement. The Recommended Dietary Allowance (RDA)&#xA;  for adult men and women is 150 μg/day. The median intake of iodine&#xA;  from food in the United States is approximately 240 to 300 μg/day for&#xA;  men and 190 to 210 μg/day for women. The Tolerable Upper Intake Level&#xA;  (UL) for adults is 1,100 μg/day (1.1 mg/day), a value based on serum&#xA;  thyrotropin concentration in response to varying levels of ingested&#xA;  iodine.&quot; (p. 258)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iodine4health.com/ortho/toxicity.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.iodine4health.com/ortho/toxicity.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only drank beer, and didn't eat anything else, then you could consume 3 pints and be below the tolerable upper intake level quoted there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But keep in mind this is worst case scenario. Iodine is very volatile and will evaporate into the headspace of the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast will also be fine, although I would make a starter to proof the yeast and test viability, just to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent this from happening in future, replace the blowoff tube - a regular airlock should be fine once the the vigor of primary fermentation is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-09T18:53:06.940" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T18:53:06.940" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6601" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-09T20:14:34.780" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-09T20:14:34.780" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T20:14:34.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6602" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-09T20:14:34.780" Score="0" Body="A substance, typically a liquid, that removes most or all of the bacteria and other microbial contaminants from brewing equipment. " OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-10T17:41:04.017" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T17:41:04.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6604" CreationDate="2012-03-10T22:55:53.323" Score="2" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;Relatively new brewer here. I have a recipe that says to boil three gallons of the water in a five gallon pot (to create the wort). And then later to add in the remaining water. I bought an eight gallon pot. Can I just boil all five gallons of water to create the wort? Or is that bad? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2207" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T00:16:51.727" Title="5 gallon recipe calls for 3 gallon wort, rest added. Can I use all 5 to make wort?" Tags="|wort|water|brewpot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6603" CreationDate="2012-03-11T00:16:51.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, most early extract recipes work off the concentrated boil process as you have noticed.  But if you have the ability to boil AND COOL 5 whole gallons then go for it.&#xA;Keep in mind one of the main reasons often overlooked for the concentrated boil is to use very cold water or iced water for the other two gallons to get to pitching temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could expect your hop utilization to be a little higher, but not so much so that it will ruin the beer. If you are a hophead then its a win win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go for it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T00:16:51.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6585" CreationDate="2012-03-11T00:22:59.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect full on Cornies will go away eventually.  Homebrewers will have to get used to using sixth barrels.  Same shape as a corny but with a Sanke opening and connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T00:22:59.693" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-11T00:22:59.693" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6613" CreationDate="2012-03-11T00:52:47.067" Score="16" ViewCount="7548" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father-in-law got me a wort chiller for my birthday, one of those copper coil immersion jobs and I'm now putting it to the test.  This is only my second batch of beer, so I'm pretty new at this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How fast should I be putting water through the chiller?  I've seen elsewhere that folks note that they're done chilling the wort when the water coming out the hose is cool, but mine was never hot.  Should I run the water quickly to put as much through as possible, or slow it down so the water actually has a chance to get hot before coming out the other end?  I'd sorta like to err on the side of using less water since I don't have a good way to capture it and reuse it at the moment, but that's not a huge concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2014-02-16T17:33:49.100" Title="How fast should I run water through my wort chiller?" Tags="|techniques|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-11T03:35:03.333" Score="7" ViewCount="2012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know it is important to chill wort to &amp;lt;80 before pitching yeast, and that quality of final beer is affected by the speed with which the wort was chilled to this point, and there are various methods of doing this, wort chillers, ice baths etc. The instructions on the extract kit (NB) say when it is cooled, transfer to a container containing 2 gallons of cold water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, why not keep 2 gallons of water chilled in the fridge, and add this directly to the wort immediately after the boil?  this will cool the wort to pitching temperature immediately, which will surely reduce the risk of issues!?  I use gallon jugs of spring water so there should not be any contaminants in the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is there a good reason why i should NOT do this?  i used this method for my last batch and do not detect any issues, but as its so easy i am surprized i have not come across this as a recomended technique (and negate the need for buying a chiller).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2235" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T19:44:15.830" Title="Chilling wort before pitching yeast" Tags="|yeast|wort|chilling|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6606" CreationDate="2012-03-11T03:48:11.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chillers work by using the difference in heat between the wort and the water through the chiller to cool the wort.  To maximize the effect you want the coolest possible water going through the chiller at the highest possible flow rate.  if you run the water through slowly it will be warm/hot halfway through the coils and therefore providing no cooling action for some of its journey.  I am surprized that the water was never warm coming through the chiller.  did you use the chiller immediately after boiling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you are looking for a use for the water you can have a sink full of dishes and channel the hot water directly in to soak them, i have also heard of some people use it for laundry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2235" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T03:48:11.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6606" CreationDate="2012-03-11T05:59:03.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With an immersion chiller, you'll get the best efficiency, and use the least amount water if you run the water at a speed so that it comes out fairly warm, while also stirring the wort at the same time. This ensures that the cooler wort in contact with the chiller is continually replaced with hotter wort, maximizing efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the speed may chill quicker, but at the expense of using more water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T05:59:03.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6607" CreationDate="2012-03-11T06:11:37.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're able to keep the water free from contaminants, then there is no reason not to do this as long as you're doing partial boils. It's simple, effective and avoids the need for additional equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chiller becomes more of a necessity as you step up to full wort boils. One cited advantage of chilling the entire wort with a immersion chiller is that it keeps the cold break out of the fermentor, leading to a cleaner more stable beer, although how much of an advantage this is is still &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/trub-hot-cold-break-fermenter-66916/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;debated&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-11T17:49:26.157" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T17:49:26.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6606" CreationDate="2012-03-11T13:29:24.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you run the chill water full bore you get the largest potential difference between the wort temp and the water temp.  It would seem like this is the ideal potential, but I my experience it is not.  I always found that the fastest chill rate was when the water was coming out hot to warm and not coming out cold. When you run the water full bore, despite the max difference between wort and water, you have to account for the water moving.  WIth the water on full bore a fast transit time through the coil limits contact time with the hot copper too.  Therefore if the water is coming out cool, then you haven't captured as much heat as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A super slow stream however just wastes time.  You certainly absorb the maximal amount of heat, but it happens during the first portion of the coil and the rest of the transit time is a waste of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, I am sure there is a really cool formula for figureing it out based on ID, thickness of the copper, water temp, wort temp, etc etc.  But its pretty complicated based on the reality that the wort temp is dropping the whole time.  Which involves a differential factor into the equation! Yikes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway the key is you have to get a feel for it.  Don't go full blast, but be sure the water coming out is picking up a fair amount of heat.  In time you'll get a sense of the best way to run it.  When I started using an IC I though full blast was the best way, but I was running a lot of water and not getting much chilling.  I slowed things down and it went much faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swirling the IC around in the wort occasionally (when it wasn't too hot to touch) also makes the process go faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T13:29:24.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6607" CreationDate="2012-03-11T13:37:10.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no guarantee that spring water, especially if you collected it from a spring, is free of bacteria.  But spring water is often super filtered or pasteurized and is much more likely to be free of contaminants.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That said, I used to put my couple jugs of water in the fridge the night before.  When I started the boil, I put the jugs in the freezer.  That would give just enough time so they'd get real cold without freezing...too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a great way to go about a great chill as an early brewer.&#xA;It may be beneficial to dunk the jugs in sanitizer first, or at least spray the tops with sanitizer.  Your fridge and freezer are full of bacteria that is getting blown around by the fans in the fridge/freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T13:37:10.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6606" CreationDate="2012-03-11T15:09:58.987" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the January/February 2012 issue of Zymurgy there was an article on this very subject. The author gets into the detailed math of of heat transfer and then tries 6 approaches to using an immersion chiller to see which works best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His result was that the chiller worked best with the highest water pressure, and that swirling the chiller in the wort chilled the wort even faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been following this advice and have seen similar results. On average I'm chilling my wort from 200 to 65 in about 8 minutes. This is partly due to the cold water here in Minnesota, but it's still a significant improvement over how I used to do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T15:09:58.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6607" CreationDate="2012-03-12T04:01:59.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually did this a few times when I was doing partial boils, though I would add an extra step.  First, I would boil the water for 10 minutes to kill anything in it, and add it to sanitized containers before putting in the refrigerator or freezer.  Sometimes I would do this the night before to save time on brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I found though, is that this only brought the temperature of the wort down part of the way and I still had to do an ice bath to get it below 80.  I ended up ditching this step in favor of just doing an ice bath which saved me time in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T04:01:59.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6616" CreationDate="2012-03-12T04:06:41.430" Score="7" ViewCount="6340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live at an elevation of about 300 feet, and that's where I brew my beer.  Recently, I took some home brew to my parents' house to share with them.  When tasting the beer there, the mouth feel seemed a bit excessive and I definitely noticed a sweeter-than-normal taste.  We sampled an IPA, a Nut Brown, and a Porter, all of which were affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My parents live at 3000 ft. I'm curious if elevation affects taste, or if my sense of taste was affected because I don't spend much time at that altitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-03-12T20:26:17.987" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T20:26:17.987" Title="Does elevation have an effect on the taste of beer?" Tags="|taste|environment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6615" CreationDate="2012-03-12T07:49:04.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, it seems it does affect it. You will get lower carbonation at higher elevation and also the boil temperature is lower in higher elevation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See a forum post and communication on HomeBrewTalk: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/effects-altitude-carbonation-1523/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/effects-altitude-carbonation-1523/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;The other issue is when you drink the beer. Since you are at altitude when you open and drink the beer, it will tend to lose its carbonation faster because of the lower atmospheric pressure, so you may perceive more carbonation.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What does it all mean? It means, if you bottle and drink at the same elevation, the same amount of priming sugar will produce the same amount of CO2 and the same perceived carbonation level. Now: what happens when you bottle at elevation and take it down to sea level and vice versa? Lower levels of perceived carbonation for the bottled high and drunk low beer, and higher levels of perceived carbonation for the bottled low and drunk high beer&lt;/em&gt;.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastEditorUserId="1786" LastEditDate="2012-03-12T08:23:03.030" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T08:23:03.030" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6607" CreationDate="2012-03-12T12:16:32.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's any problem at all with what you suggest.  Currently, I do partial boils, and when I chill after boiling, I take the tray of ice in my freezer, dump ice in the wort until the pot is full (I typically end up with about 3 gallons after boiling and I have a 4 gallon pot).  The rest of the ice goes into the kitchen sink where the brewpot is sitting.  I then do the ice bath on the outside and stir the ice on the inside.  Finally I transfer to a carboy, and top up with tap water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T12:16:32.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6615" CreationDate="2012-03-12T12:54:10.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Airlines routinely select their wines and foods to account for taste differences during flight, nothing that they taste typically less sweet in the air, although this is more to do with the in-flight conditions - pressurized climate, dry air dehydrating passengers, harsh light, engine noise etc, all go to affect the perceived taste of the wine and food. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, going from 300 to 3000 feet in itself doesn't make any significant difference to the beer itself, but you may perceive it differently, especially if you're not used to being at that altitude. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be in part that you were just being more critical since you were tasting in front of family/friends. Taste can very from day to day according to many factors such as how you're feeling, your state of health and what you've previously eaten and drank that day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But having said that, your perception that the beer was sweeter ties in with practices for &lt;a href=&quot;http://voices.yahoo.com/how-learned-high-altitude-cooking-techniques-885253.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;high altitude cooking&lt;/a&gt; (3000ft and over.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sugar adjustments: Although I really don't understand why, I do know&#xA;  that I often have to reduce sugar in some recipes. For high altitude&#xA;  cooking, this guideline really does work to make cakes and cookies&#xA;  taste better: for every cup of sugar you'd normally use, reduce that&#xA;  by 1 tablespoon at around 3,000 feet to as much as 3 tablespoons less&#xA;  at even higher altitudes. It does make a difference in the taste of&#xA;  your final product!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you may have to start making the beers a little more fermentable to reduce the overall sweetness if you're planning on drinking them over at your parent's place, or have them come to you instead and see if the beer is the more in line with how you expect it to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-12T13:02:48.070" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T13:02:48.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6615" CreationDate="2012-03-12T18:50:46.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to some quick research there is published evidence that our taste changes with altitude (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/5021819).  Interestingly the amount of bitternenss that was tolerable increases signficantly at 5,000 feet (but doesn't increase beyond that when at 10,000 feet).  The effect on sweetness was not altered significantly.  What that means is that basically at higher altitude our perception of bitterness is turned down, and so potentially other flavors could become dominant.  Thus at the 3,000 feet you might have observed a reduction in bitterness due to altitude and become more aware of the unfermented sugars due to this reduced perceived bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is pretty neat.  I grew up at 7,000 and next time I am at my parents I will have to see if a Stone Ruination tastes less bitter than where I live at sea level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T18:50:46.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-12T21:48:14.923" Score="7" ViewCount="4080" Body="&lt;p&gt;G'day , how long after the fermentation has finished does the yeast live ? I am curious because not only is it the cost of the yeast but if you find a particular strain and you like the taste ( providing that all ingredients are constant ) if you could grow it you would be guaranteed the same flavor over and over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2239" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-03-13T00:55:13.953" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T03:57:07.970" Title="Yeast , dead or alive?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6620" CreationDate="2012-03-12T22:20:14.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's lots of information available on the topic of yeast harvesting, which is what you're describing. You could start with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/19-brewing-tips/743-harvesting-yeast-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article in byo.com. Palmer's How To Brew also has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-8.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chapter&lt;/a&gt; on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tl;dr is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;top cropping from the krausen is better than harvesting from bottom of the fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;harvesting early in the fermentation is better than later&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yeast viability decreases over time, so it's best to re-use the yeast quickly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can improve the quality of your yeast by washing it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;harvest yeast from brews with a starting gravity that is low or middling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can re-use a yeast culture for maybe a half-dozen brews&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically re-use yeast over a number of batches and have never had a problem with under-attenuation or off-flavours from fermentation. I harvest when racking from secondary, so I'm not really doing it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T22:20:14.490" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6620" CreationDate="2012-03-12T22:21:56.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out this site on harvesting yeast. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/com-yeast-harvest.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wyeastlab.com/com-yeast-harvest.cfm&lt;/a&gt;. After primary fermentation, you want to &quot;harvest&quot; the yeast so that you can store it properly. The yeast goes dormant at cooler temperatures (during storage). Then you warm up the yeast, pitch it to a starter (http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html) and you can reuse the yeast! You should really only store yeast for about 1 month. You can also, only harvest so many times, usually 3 - 5 generations of daughter cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T22:21:56.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6620" CreationDate="2012-03-12T23:28:08.507" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to be a pessimist, but if they're not fermenting, then the yeast are continually dying. How fast they die is dependent upon how they are stored. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to just reuse yeast from one batch to the next, then save a quart of yeast slurry from the previous batch and store in the fridge in a sanitized container - a loose fitting lid is ideal, such as foil held down with an elastic band - this lets out any gasses if fermentation hasn't quite finished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use within a couple of weeks then you can pitch directly into the next batch. Longer than that - up to 4 months - and there won't be adequate viable cells remaining, so a &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/479/how-do-i-make-a-yeast-starter&quot;&gt;starter&lt;/a&gt; is needed.  Beyond 4 months, the yeast will have mostly died - You can see it visually as it turns from a pale cream to a darker brown peanut-butter color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long term storage - around 2 years - is possible by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ipass.net/mpdixon/Homebrew/Freezing%20Yeast.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;freezing the yeast&lt;/a&gt; in a 30% glycerine solution. The amount frozen is usually just a few milliliters, so a starter is always necessary to step up the quantity to proper pitching rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;short term storage - up to 2 weeks, in the fridge, for direct pitching into the next batch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;medium term storage - up to 4 months, in the fridge, requires a starter before pitching&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;long term storage - up to 2 years, in the freezer, requires several step-up starters before pitching&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T23:28:08.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6607" CreationDate="2012-03-13T13:14:09.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the same method myself and although it's very early in my brewing career I haven't had any problems so far. I use the cheapest possible bottled water from the supermarket. It adds about $1.50 to the cost of each brew. One thing I've noticed is that the water does have to be very cold  - freezer cold, but not frozen or it's hard to pour :-) - or it doesn't chill the wort to a low enough temperature even when there's a lot more water than wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2113" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T13:14:09.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6627" CreationDate="2012-03-13T16:30:37.563" Score="12" ViewCount="53546" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I keep my fermenting beer in my living room, should I cover it with blankets or otherwise keep it out of the light?  I've seen topics on brewing referencing this, but most just settle for &quot;why take the chance?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping for a little more clarity on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2176" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T21:58:03.353" Title="How much effect does light have on fermenting beer?" Tags="|fermentation|light|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6628" CreationDate="2012-03-13T17:04:09.303" Score="2" ViewCount="3864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious to hear how folks remove the hot and cold breaks in their brewing process? With the hot break, I try to spoon out as much as I can, but this often feels like fighting the wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to the cold break, I have a tough time determining where the wort ends and the cold break begins. I try to leave as much of the hop sludge left in the bottom of my boil kettle as I can. Is this considered the cold break?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1062" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T22:15:14.437" Title="Dealing with hot and cold breaks" Tags="|boil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6625" CreationDate="2012-03-13T17:06:05.323" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep it out of the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ESPECIALLY if the fermentation vessel is clear, but generally, keep it out of the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light (specifically, UV rays) will skunk the beer, producing off-flavors. It's probably better if you have a closet or someplace else out of the way that's dark to ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But - keep it out of the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T17:06:05.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6626" CreationDate="2012-03-13T18:03:05.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both hot and cold break will eventually fall to the bottom of your kettle if you leave it for 20-30 mins after flameout. So you can boil, and then whirlpool, and you'll not end up with much break material in the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can spoon off the hot break if you want to (I do the same), since some people say it's better for the beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I skim the stuff off during the first 15 minutes or so of the boil and&#xA;  put it in a bowl. I've looked at it a few hours later and it looks&#xA;  pretty nasty. I wouldn't even want it going through my whole boil, let&#xA;  alone going into my fermenter. I'm not a chemist so I don't know the&#xA;  specifics, but from what I've read it's basically the first hotbreak&#xA;  that is called albumin. The Germans claim that it entrains hop&#xA;  constituants if it is present and results in lower hop utilization and&#xA;  a reduction in head retention. That's why they always wait until at&#xA;  least 15 minutes into the boil before they add their first hop&#xA;  addition. So I would say yes, they do skim the scum.   I imagine it&#xA;  also has particles of grain husks and other unwanted material that you&#xA;  would prefer not to have in your wort, fermenter, or finished product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?p=414220#p414220&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do the skimming now with the Electric rig, but never bothered with propane (too hot!).&#xA;I can't say I noticed any problems with the old way of doing things, but I do it to be on the safe side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T18:03:05.187" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6626" CreationDate="2012-03-13T19:39:26.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I skim the Hot Break as the wort comes to a boil. I'm not overly fastidious about it, I just don't like what it looks like and don't want it in my beer so I get most of it out with a fine mesh spoon like something you would use to get stuff out of a fryer without taking all the hot oil with it.  This works quite well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for cold break, I use a counter-flow chiller so the cold break goes right into the fermenter.  This hasn't caused any issues and since it would be a huge pain to change equipment and process to remove it, in the fermenter it stays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T19:39:26.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-13T19:46:08.833" Score="0" ViewCount="1883" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not having kegged, I don't mind what some people call the 'hell' of bottling.  However, after bottling a 10% BGSA last night where I used a 2 quart starter (leading to a massive yeast cake) and whole leaf hops (which made it into the primary), a clogged/slow-flowing autosiphon, a slow-flowing bottle wand, all leading up to a 3+ hour bottling session, I have a new maxim and a question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maxim:  Always strain out whole hops or use a muslin bag.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Question:  Are there any lowish-cost alternatives to a bottling wand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a good chance next time I'll just break out my march pump instead of the siphon next time as well, though I haven't had a problem in the past...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-03-13T22:46:05.700" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T00:57:50.923" Title="Alternatives to Bottling Wands" Tags="|bottling|siphon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6632" CreationDate="2012-03-13T19:56:21.803" Score="8" ViewCount="901" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made over 50 batches of homebrew, and I have a confession: I rarely CLEAN my equipment.  I take a quick look to see if there is any visible debris/dust, etc., and if so, I will spot clean it or rinse it.  I am still a maniac about sanitization, which I know is different than cleaning, and people make a huge point to make that distinction.  What I do not know however, is does it actually benefit to scrub an Ale Pail with Oxyclean and a sponge, use the sink attachment to blow out a carboy, or a bottle brush to 'clean' a bottle, when the stuff is free of visible dirt (unless I miss something) and I am sanitizing?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively happy with most of my batches, and have only had one (knock on wood) case of pedio/lacto infection.  However, I just bought a chest freezer for fermentation/conditioning, and am looking to my hot and cold side processes to improve the product.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T16:34:03.230" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T16:34:03.230" Title="cleaning vs. sanitizing" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|contamination|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6631" CreationDate="2012-03-13T20:05:39.443" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;You can't sanitize a turd&quot; - George Fix&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can see it, feel it or smell it, you can't sanitize it. A little oil from old yeast or a plug of old hop trub wedged into a seam will never get sanitary from contact with a sanitizer. So clean first, then sanitize. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, a clean glass carboy looks pretty clean and will probably sanitize well, but how clean is it around the gasket on your bottling bucket or under the lid gasket or inside your racking cane? Oxyclean or B-brite or other cleaners will attack the oils and proteins of old crud, break them up and get them out of the way so that your sanitizer can touch all of the inner surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all, your santizer will only be in your bucket for between a minute and an hour. Your beer will be in there from a week to a month or more. Which will soak into the crud better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2242" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T20:05:39.443" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6626" CreationDate="2012-03-13T22:15:14.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to skim the hot break, but once I started using FWH extensively that wasn't possible.  I have noticed no difference in the beer from not removing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T22:15:14.437" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6639" CreationDate="2012-03-13T23:10:26.387" Score="9" ViewCount="1197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to buy a wort chiller. I have used a friend's, which was copper. Now, online, I see some that are stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any real difference between a copper and a stainless steel wort chiller? Reviews online make it seem that homebrewers prefer copper claiming that it is able to cool the wort faster. But there are also conflicting reviews saying the difference is marginal or nil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the cooling, is there any other consiquence / benefit from either?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2207" LastEditorUserId="2207" LastEditDate="2012-03-13T23:16:44.640" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T14:45:12.007" Title="Any difference in the metal used for a wort chiller?" Tags="|cooling|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6630" CreationDate="2012-03-13T23:32:20.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a bucket with a spigot on the bottom for bottling.  It was quite easy, even for a newbie like me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T23:32:20.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5563" CreationDate="2012-03-14T02:40:47.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rise in temperature will depend on several factors. One, heat should rise more in large volumes, since much of the heat will have farther to go to dissipate (one reason commercial breweries have ways to remove heat in the fermentation tanks. Two, insulation, if used will cause heat to rise more, while the provision of a conductor such as a surrounding water bath will cause it to rise less. Three, outside temperatures will have some influence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked up the abstract of the article by Theerarattananoon, Lin &amp;amp; Peng. Since their fermentable sugar consisted of glucose in amounts ranging from 10 to 300g, I assume their volume was small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is something you'll have to experiment with based on your own equipment and fermentation environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2244" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T02:40:47.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6630" CreationDate="2012-03-14T05:06:06.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;my brew set up doesn't have a valve at the bottom of my brew kettle yet and over the course of quite a few sessions (with an auto-siphon) I have found that a simple basket strainer with a handle at the bottom of the siphon tube (following the liquid level down) works awesome! Every time the siphon tube would get clogged and it is so frustrating, so I feel your pain. GOOD LUCK!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-15T00:57:50.923" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T00:57:50.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6634" CreationDate="2012-03-14T09:24:23.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copper should in theory transfer heat faster than steel, but the steel in most stainless steel wort chillers is so thin that the difference is negligible. I prefer stainless steel chillers as they are very easy to clean and maintain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T09:24:23.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6634" CreationDate="2012-03-14T10:20:18.553" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wort chillers operate by transferring heat across a surface - the hot wort and the cold water set up a temperature gradient, so heat flows between them across the material of the chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_thermal_conductivities&quot;&gt;thermal conductivity&lt;/a&gt; of around 380, while stainless steel has a conductivity of around 20. If you built two chillers that were identical apart from the material, then the copper one in theory could have a heat transfer rate 19 times greater than the steel one, chilling the wort 19 times quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that's just theory. In practice other factors come in to play. the most significant being that it's hard to maintain the temperature gradient - wort that's been cooled and water that's been heated tend to stay in contact with the chiller surface, which reduces the temperature gradient and the efficiency of the chiller. Some measures can be taken to help prevent this, such as ensuring the wort and water are in constant turbulent motion by storring the wort or using a convoluted coil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But by far the biggest factor affecting performance is chiller design. Most stainless chillers are plate chillers, while copper is used typically in immersion or couterflow chillers. Here the thickness and total area of the material are a key factor in efficiency, as well as the material's conductivity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dudadiesel.com/choose_item.php?id=HX2330&quot;&gt;typical plate chiller&lt;/a&gt; has a surface area of 0.7 sq.m and a thickness of 0.3mm. A cfc has a surface area of 12' of 0.5'' tube - 0.14 sq.m. And the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/astm-copper-tubes-d_779.html&quot;&gt;thickness&lt;/a&gt; is 0.028'' or 0.7mm.  The figures show that although the stainless has a lower thermal conductivity, there is much more surface area than the copper. Plugging in all these figures, that makes the copper about 1.6x as efficient as the steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is only a back of the envelope calculation. Actual efficiency is still dependent upon the specific design of each chiller. For example, although some CFCs do use convoluted copper to create turbulent flow, it may be that the relative size of the turbulence is much smaller than compared to the ridges in the plate chiller, making the plate chiller overall more efficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T10:20:18.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2012-03-14T13:18:21.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the two recipes. If you are pitching a beer with a higher OG than the batch that the yeast cake was formed by, I think that aeration would be more important than if you were going from a higher OG to a Lower one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2245" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T13:18:21.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6642" CreationDate="2012-03-14T13:39:10.603" Score="1" ViewCount="1118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using Martin Brungard's Bru'n Water spreadsheet to build up my water profiles from distilled water. This has worked very well for the dozen or so ales I've made. This weekend, I'll be brewing a Maibock (my first lager), and I'm not sure which water profile to aim for. The &quot;yellow malty&quot;, &quot;yellow balanced&quot;, &quot;amber malty&quot;, and &quot;amber balanced&quot; sound close, but I'm not sure which one is the best fit. Also, there is an &quot;american lager&quot; profile, but no other lager-specific profiles. So, my question is, what water profile should I use? If it makes any difference, I'm using the Angel Wings all-grain recipe from Brewing Classic Styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1506" LastEditorUserId="1506" LastEditDate="2012-03-14T14:13:52.587" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T13:00:33.990" Title="What water profile should be used for a Maibock?" Tags="|water|lager|chemistry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6641" CreationDate="2012-03-14T16:56:04.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spreadsheet gives color ranges for &quot;yellow&quot; and &quot;amber&quot;, so after you put your recipe together you select the color profile.  Malty or balanced will depend on the recipe, also.  In general, though, I think you could go with either and be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T16:56:04.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6641" CreationDate="2012-03-14T18:17:20.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not brewed a maibock, but I've brewed plenty of Munich Helles which the BJCP says the maibock is a stronger version of. Since it's a malt-forward style, mostly on account of the large amount of malt and proportinally less hops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use a neutral profile or one that accentuates the malt, and achieve the hop balance in the quantity of hops used, rather than trying to eek out more hoppiness by adding sulphates. A little carbonate may be helpful, as is typical of Munich water, to help offset the darker munich malt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T18:17:20.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-14T21:31:59.953" Score="1" ViewCount="1218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the following recipe in my primary fermenter and had planned on making an apricot ale. I have since realized that apricots are far out of season and my two apricot alternatives are A) make a puree out of dried apricots B) use a pre-made wine/beer apricot puree. I really would like to make this homemade and would like to avoid using dried fruits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: What fruits/additions (preferably in-season/imported and easily found) would go well with the ingredients already fermenting? As an alternative to an apricot ale.&#xA;I am thinking blueberries or blackberries? I dont want this beer to be overly sweet however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;RECIPE&#xA;0.25 lbs Midwest Wheat Malt info &#xA;1.5 lbs American Caramel 10°L info &#xA;4 lbs Liquid Wheat Extract info &#xA;3 lbs Liquid Light Extract info &#xA;0.5 oz Nugget (Pellets, 13.00 %AA) boiled 60 min. info &#xA;0.25 oz Nugget (Pellets, 13.00 %AA) boiled 30 min. info &#xA;0.25 oz Nugget (Pellets, 13.00 %AA) boiled 15 min. info &#xA;1 tsp. Irish Moss @ 15 min (not included in calculations) &#xA;4 lb. Apricot Puree @ Secondary (not included in calculations) &#xA;Yeast :  WYeast 1056 American Ale™ info &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2248" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-14T21:51:57.523" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T20:42:12.160" Title="Apricot ale alternative?" Tags="|beer|flavor|fruit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6644" CreationDate="2012-03-14T23:05:32.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out lorann candy oil. I have used the apricot with good success. One dram only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2251" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T23:05:32.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6631" CreationDate="2012-03-15T00:54:25.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you're a self proclaimed 'maniac' when it comes to sanitization (and props to you for that!), you have probably been attacking the grime and dirt agressivly enough, during your sanitization process and spot cleaning, to remove most of the contaminenets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although 50 batches is a respectable amount of notches under your belt, remember that every small risk you take in cutting corners could end in a big loss... your entire batch of beer and your wasted time. ....not to mention the bruises to your ego.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, your equipment is suseptable to wear and tear the more you use it (and sanitize/clean it). This creats areas on the surface of your equipment like scratches and pits that are able to better hold contaminents. So, what you are able to get away with today may not be the case in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a slight change in your brewing process and add a clensing stage (which is a minimal amount of extra time in relation to the entire process) to further increase your chances of success in future batches and aleaviate any worries of shotty brewing practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will always be benifical to eliminate every risk that you have the ability to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.   @Chris Chubb: Great answer, and quote!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2223" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T00:54:25.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6620" CreationDate="2012-03-15T03:57:07.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the input and links , I'm just getting started with proper corn worts and just figured that when I get it the way I like it , it would be good to keep that flavor. In regards to yeast only lasting a couple of generations there are to many examples of producers keeping the same genetic strain for over fifty years for example :- jack Daniels , Jim beam , coopers beer and so on. Since posting I have sourced some information , but anymore is always good&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2254" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T03:57:07.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6659" CreationDate="2012-03-15T14:03:46.897" Score="6" ViewCount="4838" Body="&lt;p&gt;So beer temperature affects residual co2 in beer for priming, the lower the temp the more residual.&#xA;I've got a Ryepa that I plan on carbing to 2.4 vols of CO2. Its been in a 55 degree closet for 4-5 days, should I use temperature compensation&#xA;for that current temp of 55 or the 63 degrees it was at before crashing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 5 gallon batch the higher temp actually only adds around .3 ounces of cane sugar....guessing that won't make much of a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess a side note, which calculator do you guys find to be more accurate....HBD or NB's calc?&#xA;Usually there's not much more than a fraction of an ounce difference with HDB being higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T11:48:46.683" Title="Priming calculation after cold crashing for a week" Tags="|carbonation|priming|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6648" CreationDate="2012-03-15T14:41:17.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking around it seems that the answer is go with the 55 degrees. Because CO2 was dissolving into your beer even while it was cold crashing. So basically if you are going to prime at 55 degrees, use 55. But if you are going to let it warm up and then prime, then use that temperature (say 63 degrees you mentioned). Note that at 55 degrees it may take quite a while for the yeast to produce the CO2 to carbonate the beer. Bringing the bottles or keg up to room temperature for a while will help speed that process along.  Here is a BYO article on priming:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/article/indices/21-carbonation/1276-priming-with-sugar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.byo.com/stories/article/indices/21-carbonation/1276-priming-with-sugar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T14:41:17.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6644" CreationDate="2012-03-15T18:15:06.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a very similar beer and racked it onto 5 lbs of frozen strawberries with good results. They really add a very mild flavor to the beer, and it's a good result. My theory is that you don't see many strawberry commercial beers (with Abita's Strawberry Lager being the exception) because you have to use so much fruit to impart taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frozen fruits work great because freezing them breaks down the cell walls (or something like that - I'm sure someone who knows the science better can/will expound on it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T18:15:06.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6625" CreationDate="2012-03-16T13:02:25.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the hops that create that skunky aroma. The UV rays react with the hop oils and spoil. Also, if the fermentor is in direct sunlight, one would assume that the fermentations temperature would begin to rise until the sun sets, when the ferm temp would start to fall! Better to keep a constant temperature and keep out of the sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very least, cover with a blanket to protect your hops!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T13:02:25.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6648" CreationDate="2012-03-16T14:32:18.967" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use the highest temp achieved during or after fermentation with a caveat that some of the C02 expelled at the highest temp will get sucked back into the beer if/when the temp drops, just like a bottled beer sucking it the carbonation in the headspace. The size difference between a bottle's headspace and its liquid content is proportional to the empty/filled space of a 5gal secondary carboy with a 5gal batch in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOWEVER, if at any time &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the high point of fermentation was reached, but &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the lower temps occurred, if you opened the fermentor sufficiently to allow for the escape of that headspace C02, then that C02 obviously won't be present to be re-absorbed by the beer as the temp of the carboy is lowered, thus you would need to use more priming sugar than if that headspace C02 was re-absorbed by a cold crash, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T14:32:18.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6655" CreationDate="2012-03-16T21:31:15.677" Score="1" ViewCount="1562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was talking to a friend today and complainIng about the clean/bleach/sanitize/rinse process I undergo when bottling. He dug a bottle of iodophor out of a back shelf and asked me to try it out. He said it was sitting there for years and has never used it. This I assumed would be better than rinsing as a final step to avoid re-contaminating my equipment. Not to mention making my cleaning process faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The directions say to let drip-dry. So my question is this: For the time it takes for this cold-water iodophor solution to dry is there greater risk of contamination versus rinsing and racking? Also, is there a lifespan to iodophore? I know it breaks down quickly when in solution and exposed to air and there is no exp date on the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2223" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T21:47:06.043" Title="Is iodophor ideal for rinse-less sanitization before bottling?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6654" CreationDate="2012-03-16T21:47:06.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;iodophor has a shelf life reportedly of 5 years, as describved in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bayareamashers.org/content/maindocs/iodophor.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, which in addition provides a lot of information for the new iodophor user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No rinse really means just that. Just turn the bottles upside down and let them run dry. A few drops left in the bottle will do no harm, and have no detectable taste. Again, the same article above describes an experiment to see how much iodophor needs to be left to be detectable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T21:47:06.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6657" CreationDate="2012-03-17T02:05:09.217" Score="8" ViewCount="7446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good results, have always done it the same way in recent years, but always question myself when I dry hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weigh-out my pellet hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scrub my hands with soap an water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drop a weight, a muslin bag and a length of dental floss into my pitcher of StarSan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put my hands into the pitcher for a minute, then pick up the bag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squeeze (hard) on the muslin bag to rid it of most of the StarSan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the damp bag, drop in the weight and hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tie the top of the bag closed with the dental floss&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the plug out of the carboy, drop the bag in (leaving the tail of the dental floss out, so I can retrieve the bag later)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the plug back in the carboy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I do this when most of the sugars are gone already, the alchol level is up, and there's a lot of dissoved CO2.  And I don't want to get into bag vs no bag discussion, but otherwise, from a sanitization perspective, are there other, possibly better, techniques?  Do some folks not even soak the bag in sanitizer and get away with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T07:31:39.873" Title="Sanitization practices when dry hopping in a muslin bag" Tags="|sanitation|dry-hop|dry-hopping|starsan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6656" CreationDate="2012-03-17T07:28:00.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually just boil the hop bag and string for a couple of minutes. I've not used dental floss - I'm not sure that fresh minty taste is needed in the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use starsan for pretty much all my sanitation duties, but my reservations about using starsan here are that it may not penetrate deep into the material of the hop bag, but really this is probably unfounded. Also, like you say, the beer is fermented, so is quite inhospitable to acetobacter and other common contaminating microbes, but of course, not wild yeast, so some form of sanitation is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your method is fine. It obviously works, so unless you're looking for something quicker or easier, then there's no reason to change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T07:28:00.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6656" CreationDate="2012-03-17T11:35:01.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thats how I do it and I've never had a problem.&#xA;In my own paranoia about the bag, I have moved to soaking a small nylon type bag and the fibers are non porous like muslin.  I soak it overnight in a small dish of starsan and I am good to go in the morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dental floss is a great trick too, just use the non-flavored/scented kind.&#xA;I tend to dry hop in the keg so I tie the bag off to the longer dip tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T11:35:01.567" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6648" CreationDate="2012-03-17T11:48:46.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference in volumes of dissolved CO2 at 55 v. 63 is only 0.15 volumes; &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/resources/carbonation#secB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;according to Section B&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That difference will be hardly noticable on the tongue or in the glass, and it certainly won't cause a bottle bomb situation.  If anything the beer will be slightly overcarbed, which is better than under carbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to bottle for years before anyone started worrying about dissolved CO2 post ferment.  The differences are so small its a minor thing to concern yourself with, IMO. I can't say all my lagers were overcarbed and my ales weren't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As homebrewers we (myself included) can get trapped in the  absolutes of what beer math and physics tell us.  I present this difference to remind us to always think about the practical aspects of what we are doing. That's the balance between the art and the science of brewing. Professionally I am a hard bench scientist, but even I recognize and remind my coworkers of the need to keep it in perspective of the goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my answer to the question is to go with 63F, realizing that for any point of reabsorption below that due to headspace CO2 is going to be trivial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T11:48:46.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6641" CreationDate="2012-03-17T13:00:33.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could look-up the water profile from Einbeck north Germany, where the style originated.  You'd get some authenticity points too.  The reason they used the malts they did, in many cases, was to help out with controlling the pH of the mash, so by using some of those profiles, you're actually making it harder to convert in the mash.  But that 'struggle' might just be what gives the beer it's character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T13:00:33.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6631" CreationDate="2012-03-17T13:23:44.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything that the beer touches post chilling should be soaked in pbw or oxyclean and rinsed, whether it looks clean or not. I borrowed a carboy that looked clean, and gave it my usual overnight with warm oxyclean. And the next day there were little whisps of white foaty things in it. You can't see a boifilm, and that can get ya contaminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-09-01T13:34:50.430" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T13:34:50.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6664" CreationDate="2012-03-17T16:22:56.537" Score="1" ViewCount="2994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just opened a new bottle of beer after letting it bottle ferment and I ended up with more beer on the counter than in my glass.  It seems to be over carbonated and exploded everywhere.  After reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1864/over-carbonating-in-the-bottle&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;  I saw that too many fermentables can be the cause of over carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this beer I used a kit, so I just mixed in the provided priming sugar, but I had augmented the kit with cacao powder during the boil and almost 8 tsp of vanilla extract right before bottling.  Would either of those been a source of extra fermentables? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2185" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T17:16:48.933" Title="Other Causes of Over Carbonation In the Bottle" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6662" CreationDate="2012-03-17T16:53:58.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, neither of those would have contributed.  The 3 primary causes of overcarbed bottles are..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) incomplete fermentation...bottling too soon, before fermentation is finished&#xA;2) too much priming sugar&#xA;3) infection&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any of those possibly describe your situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T16:53:58.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6662" CreationDate="2012-03-17T17:16:48.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you put the beer in the fridge overnight before opening it?  The problem you describe sounds a lot like bottled-carbonated beer that never had a chance to get the CO2 dissolved into the beer: lots of foaming when you pop the cap, then flat beer in the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gases dissolve more readily into cold liquid than warm liquid.  When your residual yeast consumes your priming sugar, only a small portion of the CO2 it creates dissolves into your room-temperature beer.  The rest accumulates in the headspace, building pressure.  This is why most people will warn against natural carbonation in a growler - they're not designed to hold pressure, and the pressure generated can be much higher than pre-carbonated beer (yes, many people get away wtih it, but that debate is for another thread).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you put your beer in the fridge overnight, the liquid cools down, the CO2 dissolves back into solution, and it doesn't spray all over the counter when you open it the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check Denny's hypotheses by tasting the beer.  Does it have off flavors, especially a sour tang?  Too sweet?  Taste like sausages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies if you knew this already - the question didn't specify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T17:16:48.933" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6681" CreationDate="2012-03-17T18:45:48.667" Score="4" ViewCount="1025" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been incubating a culture of koji onto steamed rice for about three days.  It has been in a cooler with jars of hot water, keeping the temperature in a range of 80 F to 95 F.  There is a lot of white hairs growing on the koji, as well as some tan/green discoloration.  According to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.taylor-madeak.org/index.php/2008/10/17/growing-koji-for-homebrewing-sake?page=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt;, the green is from koji-kin spores, which are created when the koji is dehydrated (I did not have any humidity source in my cooler).  Most guides describe koji as having a &quot;cheese like&quot; smell, this more resembles dirty socks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what the koji looks like:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9dlip.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;koji in cooler&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NYbHK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close up of koji&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the spores have any adverse effect on the sake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T17:43:19.873" Title="Is my koji ready?" Tags="|sake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6669" CreationDate="2012-03-18T22:29:54.437" Score="2" ViewCount="13125" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is my understanding that if one is fermenting (primary) with a bucket with a plain lid on it that it is necessary to leave a small gap (i.e. to leave the lid open a bit)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an adequate solution to help fermentation and is there any other way I can avoid the contamination of the beer during fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2257" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T07:01:51.627" Title="Is a normal plastic fermenting bucket with a plain lid (no kind of tap) OK to ferment in without the beer becoming contaminated?" Tags="|fermentation|fermenter|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6666" CreationDate="2012-03-18T23:31:22.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you saying your lid has no hole for an airlock? You definitely need some way for gasses to escape, but leaving the lid partially open sounds pretty dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible to make a hole in the lid so you could use an airlock/blow-off tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2005" LastActivityDate="2012-03-18T23:31:22.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6672" CreationDate="2012-03-18T23:56:44.800" Score="6" ViewCount="6364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing a batch of Hard Lemonade. The gravity started at 1.090 in mid September 2011. I pitched Lalvin EC-1118 as the yeast. It is now down to 1.029 and tastes good and is sweet. If I bottle and carbonate the traditional way, I will have bottle bombs. I don't own a keg or have the money to buy equipment for one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I can carbonate a brew that doesn't involve either a keg or yeast?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative that I thought of if a commercial one doesn't exist:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have been considering experimenting and using the existing citric acid in the lemonade and adding baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). Hopefully they would react to create to create C02, but I am not entirely sure what it would do to the taste. It would be the same reaction that Alka Seltzer uses to carbonate water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T20:04:16.233" Title="How do I carbonate without yeast or a keg?" Tags="|carbonation|lemonade|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6666" CreationDate="2012-03-19T00:06:31.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, you can do an open ferment with the bucket lid partially open. Be certain to pitch plenty of yeast, and airate the wort - you want a short lag time before the yeast start fermenting, to ensure no other microbes take over the wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once fermentation has started, the co2 produced will keep airbourne microbes out of the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a normal gravity beer, under 1060, bottle after 2 weeks to avoid the chance of oxidizing the beer. During fermentation, the beer is protected by a layer of co2, but after the co2 stops being produced, the open ferment allows that layer to dissipate and be replaced with air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;see&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/brewery/library/OpenFerm.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;open fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-19T07:16:13.453" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T07:16:13.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6666" CreationDate="2012-03-19T00:07:48.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your santitation is spot on, you can certainly ferment in a bucket and just cover it with some foil.  This would be akin to an open fermentation.  The foil would simply keep stuff from falling into it from the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T00:07:48.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6682" CreationDate="2012-03-19T13:10:13.537" Score="3" ViewCount="976" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is condensation okay in a finished bottle conditioned homebrew? It has been two weeks and I just tested one, it tasted fine but I am curious if that is ok. Also, some of the bottles have some white stuff floating on the top... are those okay to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2124" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T05:29:05.170" Title="Bottle conditioned brew has condensation" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6668" CreationDate="2012-03-19T13:43:04.313" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you happen to have access to a CO2 tank and just not the keg, you can use something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/kegging/kegs-accessories/carbonation-accessories/the-carbonater.html&quot;&gt;The Carbonator&lt;/a&gt;. It will go on the top of a 2 liter soda bottle and you can hook the CO2 up to that. My roommate has done this with great success, and I actually carbed a bit of my first batch of beer using this method because I was impatient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to hunt down an old seltzer bottle. Then you could use some of the small CO2 cartridges to carb your lemonade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I would avoid the baking soda route. Not knowing entirely what all will happen, it might affect the taste of the citric acid, since it is neutralizing the acid. Also, I know from experience that it will leave a slightly salty taste in the liquid, with not too much carbonation. (Unless you do it under pressure; that might work, but be careful. As a kid, I did mix vinegar and baking soda in a poor attempt to make carbonated water.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I do not work for Midwest in any way, I just happen to use them for stuff my LHBS doesn't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T13:43:04.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6671" CreationDate="2012-03-19T13:52:04.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What did you condition with?  I've heard some of the carb tabs can leave white particles.  If you've used a sugar water mixture, I wonder if this could be an infection of sorts.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Did you taste anything off in your sample?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T13:52:04.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6668" CreationDate="2012-03-19T15:32:46.680" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, be sure fermentation has completely finished before bottling. 1.029 is a high FG - from a SG of 1.090, that's about 8% abv. I would rouse the yeast, maybe even add additional yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bcawa.ca/winemaking/sorbate.htm&quot;&gt;potassium sorbate&lt;/a&gt; to halt the fermentation, but at a relatively low 8% abv, you will need a lot of it, more than the 0.18g/l taste threshold. Better to let the yeast consume the available sugars to increase the abv a little, and then add the sorbate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't recommend the baking soda route, since I've not tried it. But I thought I'd try to work out how much you might need and what this might do to the beverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending upon how much carbonation you want, the target carbonation is around 2 to 3.6 volumes - representing the scale from lightly carbed beer to soda. Assuming the hard lemonade has been fermenting under an airlock, you'll end up with around 1 volume of CO2 already dissolved, so we need to produce an additional 1-2.6 volumes of CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baking soda and citric acid react in water:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;3NaHCO3(aq) + C6H8O7(aq) --&amp;gt; 3CO2(g) + 3H2O + Na3C6H5O7&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's 3 moles of baking soda, plus 1 mole of citric acid produces 3 moles of CO2, 3 moles of water and 1 mole of trisodium citrate. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_citrate&quot;&gt;Trisodium citrate&lt;/a&gt; is food additive E331, and is common in citric soft drinks. It has a tart, slightly salty taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how much carbonation will that give? 1 mole of CO2 produces 24.4 liters of gas at &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_conditions_for_temperature_and_pressure&quot;&gt;STP&lt;/a&gt;. To produce 1 volume of CO2 in a 19 liter (5 gallon) batch, we then need to produce 0.78 mol of CO2. The reaction formula above shows we need 2.33 mol baking soda, and 0.78 mol citric acid to produce 0.78 mol of CO2.  Baking soda has a molar mass of 84, while citric acid is 192, &lt;strong&gt;so that's 195g of baking soda and 150g of citric acid to produce 1 volume of CO2.&lt;/strong&gt; For higher CO2 volumes, simply multiply the additional volume required with these values. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you were going to carbonate to soda levels (3.5vols co2), then you'd need to produce an additional 2.5 vols CO2, which requires 2.5*195=&lt;strong&gt;487g&lt;/strong&gt; of baking soda and 2.5*150=&lt;strong&gt;375g&lt;/strong&gt; of citric acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trisodium Citrate has an RDA of &lt;a href=&quot;http://stuff.mit.edu/people/london/RRR.html&quot;&gt;2.5g per day&lt;/a&gt;. Assuming you bottle into say 50 or so 12oz bottles and a paltry consumption of one bottle per day, then the maximum carbonation level you can achieve is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.5 x 50 = 75g of produced sodium citrate, or 75g/258g/mol = 0.29 mol, which means we can only produce 0.29 mol of CO2 or 0.29/0.78 = 0.37&#xA;additional volumes of CO2, giving a final carbonation of 1.37 volumes at STP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up: using the RDA of 2.5g for the trisodium citrate, we can produce an additional 0.37 volumes of CO2, to give a total of around 1.37 volumes in the beverage. This would require 73g of baking soda in the entire batch, which seems like a lot of baking soda for not a lot of CO2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-19T18:57:43.940" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T18:57:43.940" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6839" CreationDate="2012-03-19T15:42:47.617" Score="1" ViewCount="1880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a recommendation about an apple juice that I can buy in order to make hard cider. I have read that it requires an apple juice without preservatives, but is there anything else I need to look out for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in the UK so If anyone can suggest a suitable apple juice that I can use to make hard cider that is purchasable in the UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2257" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T21:51:47.597" Title="Apple juice for hard cider (UK)" Tags="|ingredients|cider|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6675" CreationDate="2012-03-19T17:18:42.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can just use cheap apple juice from the supermarket, see this blog post by &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewingshed.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/joy-of-turbo-cider.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sean Ayling&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. In the UK we don't call it &quot;Hard Cider&quot;, it's just called Cider...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T17:18:42.480" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6656" CreationDate="2012-03-20T14:45:53.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way is to take the bag out of the equation. You will get more surface area when the hops are not confined to a bag. I know that cleaning a carboy from hop sludge can be a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did dry hopping for a couple of years in bags and have recently started to throw the hops in the carboy. I feel that I get a much better dry hop character in a shorter amount of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just some food for thought. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2230" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T14:45:53.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6679" CreationDate="2012-03-20T15:02:20.013" Score="7" ViewCount="3768" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first brew is almost ready for bottling. Winter is pretty much non-existent where I live, so &quot;room temperature&quot; is typically between 74°F and 78°F (23°c to 26°c).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning to leave the bottles in the thick cardboard boxes they originally came in and covering them to keep the light out and avoid shrapnel from any hopefully unlikely bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I do this for 2-3 weeks and then start refrigerating whatever I plan to drink soon, or should I really look for a way to keep them at lower temperature throughout the bottle-conditioning phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2219" LastEditorUserId="3022" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T00:56:02.163" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T00:56:02.163" Title="Can I bottle condition / carbonate my Hefeweizen at &quot;room&quot; temperature (74-78 degrees)?" Tags="|temperature|bottle-conditioning|wheat-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6678" CreationDate="2012-03-20T15:10:18.787" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;74-78F is on the warm side, so you'll want to reduce time spent at that temperature to a minimum to reduce the chance of staling reactions from affecting the beer. On the plus side, the high temperature means the yeast won't need more than 3 days to ferment the priming sugars and clean up, after which you can then chill the bottles for a few days to allow the CO2 to dissolve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I do this for 2-3 weeks and then start refrigerating whatever I&#xA;  plan to drink soon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving the beer at high temperature for 2-3 weeks will increase the rate of staling reactions in the beer, so I would advise against that. 3 days is plenty, and then store cool/chill for 3-5 days before opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, I'm assuming the beer was fermented at a lower temperature. If that's not the case and the beer was also fermented at the warm room temperature, then there's no real harm in continuing at that temperature for the bottle conditioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T15:10:18.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6665" CreationDate="2012-03-20T21:32:35.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably could have added moisture by leaving the jars of hot water open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the koji rice taste? I don't know if it will have much effect on the flavor as I've not made sake with spore laden rice. The taste of the rice will give you some idea but keep in mind that you will be diluting this rice with a lot more regular rice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say your koji rice is ready if not a little more so. Start making your Sake or put it in the freezer if you're not ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T21:32:35.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6671" CreationDate="2012-03-20T22:30:52.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The condensation is fine.  You have a liquid at one temp and the exterior can experience a temp swing causing condensation.  It has nothing to do with the beer, its just science.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing your process its hard to guess at what the white floaties may or may not be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T22:30:52.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6684" CreationDate="2012-03-21T14:20:25.797" Score="6" ViewCount="1944" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mosher has a recipe for a honey ginger IPA in Radical Brewing, where you add 2 lbs of honey and candied ginger to a secondary.  Wouldn't this cause bottle bombs or be cloyingly sweet?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an awesome honey called Meadowfoam (which literally tastes like vanilla-and-carmel-dipped roasted marshmallows) that I'm itching to use, and I'm not a mead fan (yet).  I used this in a dubbel before (pre-fermentation), and while it mainly fermented out, but gave the beer a FANTASTIC nose (probably linked up well with the dark malts).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my other question is what would be a good style to make with this honey.  Honey Saison?  Summer Honey Blonde?  Pre or post-fermentation?  Again, the aromatics from this stuff are amazing, but the taste is simply out of this world, so I'd like to get some of that in a beer without making (another) 9-10% abv beer that is sessionable for summertime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T14:55:27.097" Title="Honey Post-Fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|beer-styles|honey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6683" CreationDate="2012-03-21T17:08:17.607" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wouldn't this cause bottle bombs or be cloyingly sweet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; Honey, like any other sugar added to the primary or secondary, will &lt;em&gt;ferment out completely with enough time&lt;/em&gt;. Just make sure the beer is fermented to fullness before bottling. Honey is pretty much 100% fermentable, so if you are going to add it to secondary, you should take a gravity reading first, once primary fermentation is done, then add the honey, then bottle AFTER the gravity of the beer hits the pre-honey level. In fact, you might even see the gravity go down a little below what it was before you added the honey, due to the increased alcohol in the solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got my first braggot in the secondary now. Its basically all Golden Promise malt for a base, with 3 pounds of Florida Orange Blossom honey added to the secondary. It was sweet and cloudy yesterday, but its fairly young (honey added on 3/17) and was down to 1.020 from about 1.060 already. I suspect it will be at final gravity (1.012-1.015) within a few more days, although I'll give it a little more time to mature in the secondary before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I guess my other question is what would be a good style to make with&#xA;  this honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not positive and this type of forum (Stack Exchange) isn't the place for recipe speculation anyway. However, I'd encourage you to go nuts and see what you find! Brewing is subject to all kinds of trends that seemingly break the rules. Think about how every style of beer now has an &quot;India&quot; prefix where they add a ton of hops. Or how big hoppy beers are now being brewed midnight black. Perhaps you'll kick off a wave of honey-flavors in styles we don't associate normally with honey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T17:08:17.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6686" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-22T17:36:00.477" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-22T18:14:19.287" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T18:14:19.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6687" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-22T17:36:00.477" Score="0" Body="Sake is an alcoholic beverage of Japanese origin made from fermenting rice." OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-22T18:15:59.833" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T18:15:59.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6691" CreationDate="2012-03-22T17:59:02.910" Score="4" ViewCount="1549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently told some other brewers how I have used a Sanke keg and they tried to convince me that they were dangerous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They had heard of the ball being shot up out of the keg when trying to clean the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used the keg 3 or 4 times and never thought about that being possible, nor does it make any sense to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I disagree with them but are there any dangers to using Sanke Kegs for homebrew?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T19:37:15.793" Title="Dangers of Sanke Kegs" Tags="|kegging|keg|sanke-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6690" CreationDate="2012-03-22T19:38:35.237" Score="4" ViewCount="735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a chest freezer with a Brewpad heating element stuck to the inside wall (for warmer fermentations/bottle conditioning), and a single-stage Johnson controller.  Since getting this, I haven't used the freezer's compressor to cool the chamber, only the heating element, as ambient temps in my basement have been in the low 60's, and I haven't done any lagers or overly cold fermentations (yet).  I have my temp controller probe taped to the outside of an Ale Pail/carboy, insulated by scrap styrofoam.  However, since we had a non-winter in Maryland and it is getting warmer, my basement is now right around 70 degrees.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I switched the jumpers on my controller to a 'cooling' setup (&quot;cut-out at setpoint&quot;).  Just last night, I made an extract stout that I want to ferment at 67 degrees.  After getting the temperature inside the chest to around 67, I taped the probe onto the fermenter and went to bed.  checked this morning and both the ambient temp of the freezer and the fermenter read 67 degrees.  However, I went home for lunch, and the ambient temp was down to 58 degrees (!), with the fermenter temp holding at 68.  My question is, with huge swings like this, won't the ambient temp ultimately bring down the fermenter temp even if the controller is 'not trying to', when the walls of the freezer are cold from the compressor, and the chest is sealed shut and providing insulation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that fermentation (active signs this morning and this afternoon) can create some decent heat from the anaerobic reactions, but is there a way to control this to a greater extent, or does it matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other question is how/if anyone manages moisture inside a chest freezer fermentation chamber set up.  Even with minimal compressor activity, it has kicked up quite a bit of humidity inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T19:57:17.607" Title="2 Temperature Control Questions - difference in ambient temp; moisture control in chest freezer" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6689" CreationDate="2012-03-22T23:50:00.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are doing the right thing.  Ambient temperature (aka the air temperature inside the chest) can go low like this, but since the probe is taped to the fermentation vessel, and the controller is calling for chilling, then chilling is what is needed.  The thermal mass of the chest walls, cooling tubes, freon, and the air in the chest all might be below your target temperature, but the beer also has a large thermal mass that takes a while to move.  I think you will find that you will not overshoot below your setpoint very much, if at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the humidity, routing your blowoff tube outside the chest would help considerably, but requires drilling a hole where you won't hit any vital components.  You may also use a Damp-Rid style product. The crystals can be dried in the oven and re-used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="2725" LastEditDate="2013-07-02T13:19:59.970" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T13:19:59.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6688" CreationDate="2012-03-23T00:40:59.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have taken apart several sanke kegs to turn them into kettles.&#xA;I have used a hammer and a screwdriver most of the time.&#xA;There is zero danger of the ball shooting out.  And if it did the spring in there isn't that strong.&#xA;Your friends are outright wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T00:40:59.607" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2992" CreationDate="2012-03-23T14:09:02.293" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &lt;em&gt;simplicity and effectiveness&lt;/em&gt;, I have only soaked bottles in a bleach solution. 2 oz./5 gallons. I usually let them soak for at least an hour and rinse them thoroughly with hot water. Soak longer to get stubborn labels/glues off. I have had no problems with contamination afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is such a critical step, of course! Thankfully, the chances of contamination in all of your bottles is very low if you are careful and kill the beer-hungry bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2269" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T14:09:02.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6607" CreationDate="2012-03-23T14:17:32.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to rely on this, but it didn't cool the wort &lt;em&gt;nearly&lt;/em&gt; fast enough. For the last two, I considerably cut down my cooling time to under 60 minutes by placing the carboy/bucket in a larger handled bucket, and surrounded it with 20 lbs of ice. That did the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2269" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T14:17:32.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2012-03-24T04:07:18.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;make sure that if you get a bench capper that its not made of plastic. i bought a bench capper from a home brew store, thinking i was spending money wisely. i found out after bottling my first batch today that it was junk. the bottles tend to lean to one side because the plastic parts flexed to much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2273" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T04:07:18.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6607" CreationDate="2012-03-24T17:17:33.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no good reason NOT to do it, but it won't cool your wort nearly as much as you think it will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best method so far has been to immerse the kettle in a FULL bathtub of cold water and let it sit for 20-30 minutes. I don't bother with ice. It cools about as fast as filling and emptying a sink three or four times but is less hassle. I just relax in the other room for a while and when I come back it's at pitching temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best method for real is to invest in a wort chiller, but for most beginning brewers (myself included) the above method is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T17:17:33.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6704" CreationDate="2012-03-25T15:09:11.377" Score="0" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put my wort in the primary 9 days ago and dry hopped with 1 ounce of Cascade pellets and used a Wyeast 1272 American direct pitch activator pack. I have not taken any readings but noticed it was still bubbling at about 1 per minute. This is much longer than in the past. My question is can I dry hop and add to a secondary or should I wait a little longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T17:50:58.170" Title="Move to secondary?" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6702" CreationDate="2012-03-25T15:50:24.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long to leave in primary is a controversial topic, but the current thinking is to err on the side of leaving it in longer. The rule of thumb I use for my brews is four weeks minimum in primary. Some of my higher gravity brews I will leave in for 8 weeks. I only use secondaries for things that require very extended aging, like barleywines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For something like an IPA that is consumed more fresh, I probably would leave it in primary for no less than two weeks, then secondary for dry-hopping. Your milage may vary, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T15:50:24.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6702" CreationDate="2012-03-25T15:56:30.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Airlock bubbles don't really tell you anything about the state of fermentation.  They only indicate CO2 is being released and that can come from a number of reasons.  A gravity reading is really the only way to know what's going on.  That said, 9 days is a pretty short time for primary.  I usually wait at least 2-3 weeks before I even check on the gravity.  There's no harm to letting the beer go longer and at the very least the yeast will have more time to finish and clean up after itself.  And if you want to, you can skip the secondary entirely.  I seldom do one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T15:56:30.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6706" CreationDate="2012-03-26T05:01:00.783" Score="1" ViewCount="978" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all I know being impatient is not the way to approach brewing, but I would like to sneak my last batch (as well as the ones I had planned) into a PRO-AM comp in two weeks. I have an session IPA that has been fermenting for two weeks and turning out great, but I am really looking to get the gravity down a couple more points. If I started dry hopping  at the very tail end of fermentation will I still lose a considerable amount of hoppy goodness or because Co2 production has slowed to a crawl am I in the clear to put hops in the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;O.G 1.054 +&#xA;+ Current gravity 1.020 ++ Dry hop 2 oz. Columbus (planned)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T21:52:15.413" Title="Dry hopping at the end of fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|dry-hop|dry-hopping|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6705" CreationDate="2012-03-26T12:43:52.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of at least one &lt;a href=&quot;http://21st-amendment.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;professional brewery&lt;/a&gt; that likes to dry hop before fermentation is complete. Their rationale is that the activity of fermentation helps to keep the dry hops in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think you're fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T12:43:52.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-26T12:53:24.590" Score="3" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have often heard people talking about the viability of pitchable liquid yeast either in a vial or smack pack dropping over time. This effect is greatly accelerated with increased temperature, so storing the yeast cold without freezing will slow down the drop in viability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the effect of dropping viability mean that if the liquid yeast has to travel a long distance to reach me it would be better using a dried yeast? How is the liquid yeast generally transported overseas? Is it refridgerated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the example a bit more specific White labs produces yeast in California and I buy it online from a homebrew shop in the UK. Would dried yeast perhaps be a better option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-26T13:38:30.073" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T13:38:30.073" Title="How well does liquid yeast travel?" Tags="|yeast|viability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6707" CreationDate="2012-03-26T13:29:13.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you want from the yeast. There are by far more choices in the liquid yeast realm. Only a handful in the dry yeast realm. For instance I don't see too many Saison strains in dry form. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it will depend on the travel conditions of the yeast as to how viable they are. I always make a starter. You should too, for liquid yeast. Older the yeast is the more this will matter. Also you may look into yeast ranching. That way you only have to buy a vial once, depending on how sterile and thorough you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in Germany right now and have had no problem with yeast being shipped to me from the States. Your homebrew shop would be the likeliest break in the chain. How often do the turnover the product and restock? A one year old vial or smack pack still has viable yeast in it. But I would pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2081" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T13:29:13.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6720" CreationDate="2012-03-26T14:26:56.563" Score="5" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to brew some cider, followed by some pale lager from two kits. I've decided to use bottled spring water from a company just up the road from me. They claim on their website that their water is &quot;between ten and twenty times higher in zinc than other popular water brands on the market&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard high levels of zinc would benefit the yeast, which I assume would lead to greater / better fermentation and hence a slightly higher alcohol level in the finished product. Am I right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bit of a noob question, but I'm fairly new to brewing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2281" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T10:29:27.093" Title="What effect will water with a high Zinc content have on my brew?" Tags="|beer|cider|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6716" CreationDate="2012-03-26T16:03:31.873" Score="1" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was siphoning beer to a secondary fermentation vessel so that I could reuse the &quot;primary&quot; bucket. A steady stream of bubbles inside the cane part of the autosiphon should have set off alarm bells inside my head, but I was a bit distracted. When I finally paid closer attention to it, I realized that there was a new crack in the plastic which wasn't sufficient to prevent the siphon from working but acted was a perfect mechanism for introducing air into the liquid. By that time, the destination carboy was full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to save this beer? I don't have a keg or any means of force-carbonating it. Conversely, if I bottle and drink it sufficiently quickly, will the extra oxygenation have only a minimal impact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1937" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T18:22:56.800" Title="Cure for Oxygenation?" Tags="|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-26T16:13:12.457" Score="5" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently achieved a 94% mash efficiency on a batch of Saison and was pretty stoked thinking, wow, 94% is much better than the the 72% I did last time.  I must be getting better at this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then I read on several brew forums that a higher mash efficiency will negatively affect the quality of the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true, and if so, how?  How is the wort affected and why does it happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if this is the case, how does a brewer determine appropriate balance of efficiency and wort quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T20:26:47.483" Title="Mash Efficiency and Quality of Wort" Tags="|mash|wort|efficiency|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2992" CreationDate="2012-03-26T17:20:21.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I using oxiclean to remove the labels &amp;amp; soak after use. on bottling day I run the bottles through the dishwasher (no soap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T17:20:21.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6711" CreationDate="2012-03-26T17:34:20.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is that higher efficiency does not negatively impact the quality of the wort.  A case in point is Sierra Nevada, which achieves close to 100% efficiency.  In the end, let your own tastebuds be your guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T17:34:20.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6710" CreationDate="2012-03-26T17:35:57.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure it was oxygen and not CO2 coming out of solution?  If it was oxygen, I don't know of any &quot;fix&quot;.  Drink the beer soon before the effects become too pronounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T17:35:57.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-26T17:50:27.350" Score="6" ViewCount="5778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to understand the difference between Mash Efficiency and Brewhouse Efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Brewhouse Efficiency essentially the efficiency of Mashing &lt;strong&gt;AND&lt;/strong&gt; Lautering, whereas Mash efficiency would be the efficiency of just the MASH itself and &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; the Lauter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see in &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;John Palmers book&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mash&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Efficiency is calculated the same way that a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/10/26/brewhouse-efficiency-for-all-grain-beer-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerSmith blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; post tells me to calculate &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Brewhouse&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these terms synonymous among home brewers due to the volume of the brew kettle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastEditorUserId="2374" LastEditDate="2012-05-04T18:21:01.550" LastActivityDate="2012-09-15T05:16:26.930" Title="Mash Efficiency vs Brewhouse Efficiency" Tags="|mash|efficiency|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6710" CreationDate="2012-03-26T18:22:56.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add one eighth a teaspoon of ascorbic acid for 5 gallons. It will mop up a lot of the dissolved oxygen. One campden tablet can also do the same job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if there are still yeast in suspension, which there probably is considering you've got it in secondary, then they will naturally scrub out most of the dissolved oxygen as part of the small amount of propagation that happens in the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother with the additives and just let this one ride. If this happened after secondary on the way to the bottling bucket or keg, then that's a different matter, and some additives to prevent oxidization might have been called for. But here I think your beer is going to be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T18:22:56.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6715" CreationDate="2012-03-26T18:25:41.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIK, brewhouse efficiency takes kettle losses into account and simply looks at the volume in the fermenter to calculate efficiency.  Mash efficiency usually takes both the mash and sparge into consideration, but can also refer to only the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T18:25:41.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6715" CreationDate="2012-03-26T19:00:01.027" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In principle, brewhouse efficiency measures the yield of the entire process (how much beer you bottle) against the theoretical yield, while mash/lauter efficiency measures specifically the extract from mashing and lautering. However, typically brewhouse efficiency means efficiency into the fermentor. This is the most useful definition, since it takes into acocunt typicall losses that occur constantly from batch to batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewhouse efficiency includes lauter efficiency and also other losses in the brewing process after lautering, such as losses in the kettle (trub/hop absorption), losses the chiller, in racking and to trub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The numbers and figures can get involved, although a brewkaiser gives a comprehensive (and comprehensible!) rundown of the different types of efficiency measurements in brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Understanding_Efficiency#Existing_Definitions&quot;&gt;Understanding Efficiency&lt;/a&gt;, Brewkaiser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-26T19:06:16.917" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T19:06:16.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6711" CreationDate="2012-03-26T20:26:47.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the line about higher efficiency leading to off flavors came to be because there are certain situations during a mash where if you over-sparge and your pH drops too low, then you can extract tannins and thus get some off flavors. So what happens was that some guys were over-sparging, which WILL increase your efficiency, and were noticing the tannins, and thus incorrectly assumed that it was their increased efficiency that made for a poor beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had this same line said to me by a brewery tour guide (Liveoak in Austin), so its pretty common. But again, if your mash pH is in line during the sparge, then you won't get off-flavors no matter how much you sparge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Caveat&lt;/em&gt;: This is all pretty theoretical for me, as I target 75-80% efficiency, don't oversparge, and mostly make standard strength beers. I also don't specifically measure my sparge pH, but I WOULD if I were sparging a lot (for whatever reason).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T20:26:47.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6709" CreationDate="2012-03-26T21:10:41.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending upon quantities, there are many benefits to adding zinc. For example, you'll get better lacing, as zinc helps precipitate proteins. Zinc additions can also &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;increase fermentation rate, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;improve the extent of attenuation, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;improve yeast vigour and viability, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;and improve beer flavour through stimulating acetate ester production and avoiding sulphur off-flavours. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Under some conditions, zinc addition can even help with diacetyl control&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.cara-online.com/2010/09/the-merits-of-zinc-salt-supplementation-of-wheat-beer-fermentations/&quot;&gt;Zinc supplementation of wheat beer fermentations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beer-brewing.com/beer-brewing/brewing_water/minerals_brewing_water.htm&quot;&gt;Minerals in brewing&lt;/a&gt;, Brewer's Handbook&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-26T23:30:52.550" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T23:30:52.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4548" CreationDate="2012-03-27T06:15:38.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The definition of beer lies in the -process- used to make it. Beer is a fermented alcoholic beverage created by mashing grains to convert the starches contained within to fermentable sugars. Technically Sake is a type of beer, not wine, as it mashes grains (rice) to convert the starches to fermentable sugars and is then fermented to an alcoholic beverage. Associating Sake with wine is simply a good marketing move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wine is wine, no grains are mashed, the sugars are provided by grapes without requiring a conversion to fermentable sugars.Mead uses Honey to provide the sugars instead of fruit or mashed grains. Cider uses apples, typically, but sometimes other closely related fruits such as pears. Then there's flat out crazy stuff like Braggot to confuse the issue even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2282" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T06:15:38.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6666" CreationDate="2012-03-27T07:01:51.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ferment open quite often with no problems encountered. There are plenty of breweries who still ferment open. I often leave the lid off completely, but if you are paranoid just don't press it down to seal. Just put it on top and the gases will escape. After fermentation is over, and it starts settling, I usually rack it to a carboy or seal it up. I use an airlock for this stage, but I don't think you will have an issue with the above. Make sure that there is no way for fruit flies to get in though, or you may end up with five gallons of vinegar. And try to keep the air out once the fermentation starts to slow. You could seal the bucket and vent every so often so you don't end up with a bunch of pressure buildup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2081" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T07:01:51.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6656" CreationDate="2012-03-27T07:31:39.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done it for years without sanitizing any of the bags and have yet to have a problem. If I were to go the route you are taking I would have stopped using the bags a long time ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2081" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T07:31:39.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6562" CreationDate="2012-03-27T07:58:52.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are not wax coated. And you can recycle them. Does your recycling center accept cardboard boxes from children's toys? Do they accept magazines? Do they accept old posters? All pretty much the same thing. You'll know wax cardboard when you see it. It does not get as easily damaged by moisture as regular cardboard. And you usually have to seek it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2081" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T07:58:52.023" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-28T00:59:00.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6709" CreationDate="2012-03-27T10:29:27.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Charlie Bamforth, in a recent episode of the beersmith podcast, mentioned that zinc was used in some UK Breweries to assist with head retention. He suggested that 2mg per litre would be about right (Its been a while since I listened so please check it out first, just in case you poision yourself!). If memory serves me, the discussion is towards the end of the podcast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2011/09/28/head-retention-with-the-pope-of-foam-beersmith-podcast-23/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beersmith Podcast with Charlie Bamforth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1795" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T10:29:27.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6727" CreationDate="2012-03-27T16:35:07.813" Score="2" ViewCount="400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning brewing a recipe I found of a porter that I am really excited about. The original recipe says that you should do a rest at temperature below final mash temperature for a bit. After some research I found that with today's highly modified malts, these more complex mash schedules are not necessary. So my first question is, is this true? Can I just forego the rest temperature and go for the final mash temp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, if the overall opinion is that this rest is necessary, It makes me curious about water to grist ratio. Are you supposed to dough in at a lower ratio so that when you step up your temperature with some hot water to hit your mash temp that you end up with the desired ratio? Or do you do you dough in at the lower temp with the correct ratio, then when you bump up the temp, let the ratio slide so you have a higher water to grist ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for all your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2266" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T16:56:27.620" Title="Mash rests and water to grist ratio" Tags="|mash|protien-rest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6726" CreationDate="2012-03-27T16:56:27.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends primarily on the grist you're using and the intended result, but in general protein rests (which is what I believe you're talking about) for most grains are unnecessary.  Unless you're using an undermodified malt, which is hard to find, a protein rest can even be detrimental to the body and head retention of a beer. If you're doing a step mash via infusion, you start out with a very thick mash.  I use .75 qt./lb.  That way, when you infuse boiling water to raise the temp, you don't end up with too thin a mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T16:56:27.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6702" CreationDate="2012-03-27T17:50:58.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general if you have a good pitch rate and and good aeration, primary fermentation can finish up relatively quick (4-10 days).  As stated above, leaving it in the primary fermenter for a bit will help to start cleaning up the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Denny commented, it is possible it is still bubbling due to under-pitching, or maybe not getting a good level of oxygen into the wort before pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is then if you should put it into secondary or not. Some sources I have seen even say that it may not be worth the extra risk of contamination moving it to secondary, and you can even leave it sit in the primary for an extra week or two to let the yeast settle out, then just package it. It all depends on what you are doing, but I do agree, if you can get away with leaving it in the primary for a bit, why risk the contamination by racking it over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a few things to think about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2266" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T17:50:58.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6688" CreationDate="2012-03-27T19:37:15.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only danger I have heard of, is when the whole key under pressure is placed into the a bonn-fire.  The keg will blow up, but you won't have to worry much about the ball inside, as the shrapnel will have most likely already hit you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1793" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T19:37:15.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6562" CreationDate="2012-03-27T20:18:48.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of covering a wall in my brewery (aka the garage) with various six-pack boxes -- probably just the side, cut out.  I have a lot of six-packs as well, but my recycling company takes them, so they'll take the cuttings or any that I don't want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T20:18:48.337" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-28T00:59:00.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6733" CreationDate="2012-03-27T20:36:51.570" Score="1" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I brewed the book &quot;Beer Captured&quot;'s Fat Tire Clone the other day.&#xA;I made a few slight variations. One being I used Wyeast 1056 instead of a Belgian Yeast because I figured since it's not a Belgian Ale why use a Belgian yeast (I also contacted New Belgium Brewery and the confirmed my theory and said I was on the right track)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other change though was that it calls for .33oz of Magnum Hops (14%AA)&#xA;The Magnum hops I had were only 12.5%AA, so I was going to bump it up to .66oz and the IBUs would come out at 26.4. (The book said IBU of 21). I had 1oz of Magnum, and I'm kind of a hophead, so I ended up bumping it up to .75oz which put the IBUs around 30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other hop additions are a .5oz Hallertauer (4.3%AA) at 15mins&#xA;and .25oz Willamette (4%AA) at flameout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I haven't really experimented too much with changing recipes. I mostly stick to the book. But, now I'm thinking should I have bumped up the other hops as well? With the higher amount of Alpha Acids from the Magnums, will the bitterness overpower any hop aroma from the late additions since they weren't increased at all? I know I'll just have to wait and see, but my question is if I increase the bittering hops in a recipe, should you also increase your flavor/aroma hops as well to help balance it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2021" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T23:28:20.950" Title="Increased Magnum hops in a Fat Tire Clone" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6731" CreationDate="2012-03-27T23:05:57.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The alpha acid content of hops when added at 15- and 0-minutes don't really matter that much. It's not the alpha acids you're worried about at that point, it's the hop oils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between 30 and 21 IBUs is inconsequential. Most people can't discern a difference of 5 IBUs or less. And the IBUs calculated by you (and by the recipe you followed) probably used one of the two main IBU estimation formulas (Rager and Tinseth), which are not exactly super accurate. Predicting IBUs includes so many variables -- many of which aren't even understood. All you can do is try to be consistent and you'll end up with somewhat consistent results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frequently you'll buy hops that have a different AA % than what is called for in the recipe. It's easy to adjust. For example, your recipe called for .33oz @ 14%AA, but the hops you had were 12.5%AA. To figure out how much you should use, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(recipe amount * recipe AA) / (actual AA) = actual amount&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or, in your case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(.33 * .14) / .125 = .37oz&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T23:05:57.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6731" CreationDate="2012-03-28T15:27:24.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fat Tire isn't Belgian-y at all, and 1056 is probably a nice sub. It's been a while since I had it, but it's yeastier than 1056 - less yeasty than a Belgian by a long shot though. Probably some American Ale hybrid (like Denny's Favorite) would be a good choice, but you can never really go wrong with good ole 1056.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third of an ounce of hops isn't going to move the needle a ton, really. And, you're getting very little AAs from those late editions - nearly none in the flameout one (you'll likely extract SOME because inevitably, you can't immediately cool, but not enough to matter). The 15 minute addition will only be slightly more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally, modifying those late hop additions is about what you want in the beer. Do you want hoppy flavors/aromas? More late additions. If you just want more bitter - more long boil additions. But for the largest part, those two variables are moveable based on taste more than anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T15:27:24.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6738" CreationDate="2012-03-28T20:15:17.360" Score="5" ViewCount="1039" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been doing some batch sparging with the Denny Conn method, and it works great! I also wanted to try, in the days that I want a slightly shorter brew day or a smaller experimental recipe, a BIAB. I have listened to a bunch of podcasts about BIAB and really it sounds like a nice alternative for quicker brew sessions. I was wondering if anyone out there has tried medium to bigger beers and where they start to see efficiency issues. Really I am curious about all these points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does your efficiency suffer at all?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a limit of what you can do for styles of beers? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How big can you go? I know you have to have a pretty big pot as the grain goes up, but does your efficiency suffer greatly just because it is BIAB?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again for all of your help and input! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2266" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T02:38:33.030" Title="BIAB efficiency" Tags="|efficiency|biab|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6731" CreationDate="2012-03-28T23:28:20.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bittering hops don't really effect aroma additions significantly so I wouldn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coupled with the fact that a quarter ounce of a 4%AA hop isn't going to be noticable at all as an aroma addition. Same goes for the 15min addition too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T23:28:20.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6734" CreationDate="2012-03-28T23:36:46.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done both, and BIAB isn't any faster than batch sparging.  The only difference is less equipment really.  BIAB is all in one pot and not cooler or mashtun.  If you put your first runnings in the kettle and start heating it the next runnings are ready to add long before it comes to a boil.  You add them and you are in the same place as with the BIAB at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers to the questions:&#xA;1. Efficiency does suffer a bit, but its managable.  Its a little different for everyone depending on whether you rinse the bag a bit with water, or choose to squeeze it or just choose to let it drip.&#xA;2. All styles are fair game, its mashing just in a bag. It might be tough to get a high gravity wort of say 1.090 in one mash session though due to absorption losses.&#xA;3. You can go as big as a bag you can find as long as you have a way to lift it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T23:36:46.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6668" CreationDate="2012-03-29T00:06:03.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I presume you will wait until the fermentation stops, then proceed to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can force carbonate pretty cheaply with one of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000IQEAMA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Kiss-Tire-Inflator/dp/B000IQEAMA&lt;/a&gt;, and make a cap with a tire stem &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/projects-and-equipment/article/indices/20-build-it-yourself/1085-make-a-mini-keg-and-in-line-aerator-projects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.byo.com/stories/projects-and-equipment/article/indices/20-build-it-yourself/1085-make-a-mini-keg-and-in-line-aerator-projects&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T00:06:03.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6734" CreationDate="2012-03-29T02:38:33.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been doing mostly BIAB for my last three batches of beer.  I got pretty good efficiency, about what I have gotten on a batch sparge.  I do squeeze the bag and haven't bothered to try doing any sort of rinsing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As opposed to brewchez I find that doing BIAB does save time.  No time setting up the mash tun or cleaning it.  No time spent sparging.  Go straight from mash to boil.  Don't get me wrong still takes more time than extract, but it definitely saves some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the bag size I have a 10 gallon pot and I designed my bag to fit in that and did kind of an x pattern on the bottom so that it lays more flat, to give the grain in the bottom potentially more surface area to spread out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for styles I have so far done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two pale ales (~5%)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belgian golden strong ale (7.7% ABV)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weizenbock (7.7% ABV)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the size of the beer I decided to push the envelope and go for a 7.7% ABV Belgian Golden Strong ale.  Got pretty much exactly the efficiency I expected (~65%) and an excellent tasting beer to boot.  Then decided to try out Jamil's weizenbock and it turned out pretty good as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say go for BIAB, it gets a lot of flak.  But I think it is pretty awesome, especially for someone who lives in an apartment and doesn't have the space for a full batch sparging setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T02:38:33.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6740" CreationDate="2012-03-29T04:03:03.207" Score="3" ViewCount="815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just made a yeast starter for my upcoming brew and I realize the bag I was using for DME was pushing a year old and hasn't been through prime storing conditions. It got mixed in with my other stuff somehow and I realize I used it. The DME seems fine, no visible problems or anything. It also smelled fine when boiling the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there is any concern with using this yeast starter I just made? I know DME doesn't stay fresh for eternity or anything, but I am also only using this as a starter, not a base malt for an extract brew. What are your thoughts, should I scratch the starter or should I go ahead? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2266" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-03-29T12:16:55.337" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T16:29:14.473" Title="Old DME and Yeast Starters" Tags="|yeast-starters|dme|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6739" CreationDate="2012-03-29T07:15:41.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you boiled the DME with water, and chilled, then there's no problem. Old DME may not taste especially great, but it still has all the sugars and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_Amino_Nitrogen&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;free amino nitrogen&lt;/a&gt; that the yeast need, and is still fit to function as wort for a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before pitching, decant a little and have a taste of the starter. Not only will this let you sample some of the flavor characteristics of the yeast strain, but you can see if pitching the starter will adversely or positively affect the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very most, simply let the starter ferment out and decant most of the liquid to avoid getting any stale DME flavors in the beer, but chances are this won't be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T07:15:41.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6668" CreationDate="2012-03-29T13:19:21.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could bottle with a control (plastic 20 oz soda bottle), then wait until the bottle is good and stiff, and pasteurize, as this guy did with his cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f32/easy-stove-top-pasteurizing-pics-193295/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f32/easy-stove-top-pasteurizing-pics-193295/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That'll prevent the bottle bombs, and should allow you to carbonate cheaply and easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, you'll want to be VERY careful with every stage of this process, but it's proven to work with cider, and it should work here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T13:19:21.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6750" CreationDate="2012-03-29T15:32:26.797" Score="3" ViewCount="547" Body="&lt;p&gt;So for the NB Innkeeper, I've read the ibu's should be mid 30's, and their extract kits account for partial boil.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The same additions once scaled for a 6 gallon boil shoots to mid 40's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing the simplest way to roll back the ibu's would scale the 1oz fuggles(60min) to .6-.75 oz would keep it mid 30's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much would i expect this to alter the actual recipe's flavor, considering the flavor/aroma additions will be in line with the original recipe?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/Innkeeper.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/Innkeeper.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastEditorUserId="2089" LastEditDate="2012-03-29T16:07:13.633" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T19:23:06.853" Title="Scaling from partial boil recipe to full" Tags="|recipe-formulation|recipe-scaling|bittering|ibu|full-boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6743" CreationDate="2012-03-29T18:14:28.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not scale my hop additions based of a partial to a full boil (assuming both are five gallons in the end). If I'm going to scale my hops at all, it will most likely be based on the difference in alpha acids from harvest to harvest, but even that's pushing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1062" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T18:14:28.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6747" CreationDate="2012-03-29T18:37:56.793" Score="8" ViewCount="11355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started my very first batch of beer, so I am a big noobie. Earlier today I checked the temperature of the keg and it seemed a little high (74F) so I decided to try moving it somewhere else. Afterwards though I was wondering to myself if its okay to move beer while its fermenting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2288" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T19:01:15.167" Title="Is it okay to move the beer while its fermenting?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6745" CreationDate="2012-03-29T19:00:18.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fine to move the beer while fermenting, but do your best to minimize sloshing which could introduce oxygen and eventually oxidise the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, use caution when moving full glass carboys. There have been &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewing.lustreking.com/articles/brokencarboys.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;reported&lt;/a&gt; incidents of the neck snapping and causing injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T19:00:18.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6745" CreationDate="2012-03-29T19:01:15.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's generally ok to move the beer. I do it often if the room temperature changes and I'm not using my fridge for temperature control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the first 24h of the ferment it's almost advantageous to move the beer, since any sloshing will serve to aerate the wort a little, and that's good for the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of fermentation, be a little more careful if you're using plastic, since moving the beer can cause the plastic carboys/pails to flex and push CO2 out and later suck air back in. You can hear the airlock gurgle as the gas flows back and forth. It's nothing significant to worry about, (unless you start playing the bucket like an accordion), but worth knowing about all the same. You want to minimize contact with air once fermentation has started to slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Congrats! First batch. Tasting your first beer can be a lot like your first kiss. You remember every little nuance - the appearance, aroma, taste, the bite on the tongue... :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T19:01:15.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6754" CreationDate="2012-03-29T19:13:24.523" Score="5" ViewCount="754" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded my system to include temperature control, and I had fermenting a brown ale at 67 degrees for about 6 days.  Took a gravity reading last night, and it was at 1.014 (down from 1.065/~78%AA).  I'm not sure where I acquired this concept in my head, but thought I would raise the setpoint on my fermenter temp control to 70 degrees for 48-72 hours before racking.  I'm not sure if the gravity will drop any further (or if I want it to, it tastes pretty solid right now), but thought it might help to let the yeast clean up diacetyl, acetaldehyde, or other nasties.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does raising fermentation temperature have any positive or negative effects after flocculation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-29T23:32:57.830" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T23:32:57.830" Title="Raising fermentation temperature" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6751" CreationDate="2012-03-29T19:21:31.130" Score="10" ViewCount="899" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have never made a porter, but may have done so by accident.  Was trying to make an American coffee stout, but haven't done much extract brewing in awhile, and probably didn't have enough water volume to properly dissolve all the extract or properly steep(pre-dilution it was very viscous).  I missed my target OG by about 20 points (1.065 as opposed to estimated 1.086), and my SRM by a few degrees as well (instead of opaque black, it is brown-ish) after dilution.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning on cold-extracting some coffee and adding it to samples until the flavor was decent, then scaling up (unless it really sucked, then I wouldn't add at all!).  My question is would this be a porter technically?  I'm familiar with the BJCP guidelines, but wasn't sure how this would be treated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-03-29T20:36:35.527" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T22:47:25.483" Title="Style Question: How does a stout become a porter?" Tags="|beer-styles|stout|coffee|porter|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6743" CreationDate="2012-03-29T19:23:06.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your position, I'd just brew it, and see how you like the outcome. Many factors affect perception of bitterness - it's far from an exact science. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if the recipe has been stored for any length of time at room temperature, the hop alpha acids in some hop varieties will have deteriorated up to 50% in 6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But let's look at the theory all the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said you want to target 6 gallons, but the recipe calls for a target of 5 gallons, so let's use that so we're not complicating things by introducing dilution into the picture. The partial boil was 2.5 gallons, and full boil is 5 gallons. The OG given is 1.043, so 1.040 in round figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John palmer gives a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;table&lt;/a&gt; showing the utilization factor for hops for different boil times and gravities. The recipe has two additions - one at 60 mins and the other at 45mins.  The reduction in hops required going from a partial boil to full boil is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for 60 mins: 0.176/0.252 = 69.84%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for 45 mins: 0.162/0.232 = 69.82%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, reducing both additions to 70% of their original, 1oz down to 0.7oz will, at least on paper, get you down to the same region of IBUs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you then wanted to scale this up to 6 gallons, then multiply the hops and grist in the recipe by 1.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T19:23:06.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6749" CreationDate="2012-03-29T21:11:56.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, it's to do with strength. Just to contra the downvote, Brad Smith, author of beersmith has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/03/01/beer-styles-making-a-porter-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blogged&lt;/a&gt; about porter, and links to several recipes. I've looked over the recipes, and the darker ones could easily be taken as stout recipes, and the lighter ones, brown ale recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember the guide telling at the Dublin Guinness brewery that they used to brew Porter. That was their main seller for a while, but in time started brewing &quot;Stout Porter&quot; - a stronger porter to remain competitive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porter_%28beer%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; confirms this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The name &quot;stout&quot; for a dark beer is believed to have come about&#xA;  because a strong porter may be called &quot;Extra Porter&quot; or &quot;Double&#xA;  Porter&quot; or &quot;Stout Porter&quot;. The term &quot;Stout Porter&quot; would later be&#xA;  shortened to just &quot;Stout&quot;. For example, Guinness Extra Stout was&#xA;  originally called &quot;Extra Superior Porter&quot; and was only given the name&#xA;  Extra Stout in 1840.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a stout and a porter historically are the same style, but with the stout moniker implying that it's stronger. The same wikipedia page gives these names and gravities as a guide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Porter - 1.055&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Single Stout Porter - 1.066&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double Stout Porter (Guinness) - 1.072&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triple Stout Porter - 1.078&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Imperial Stout Porter - 1.095&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your 1.086 Imperial Stout has become a Single Stout (Porter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stout doesn't have to be jet black - a commercial example is Murphys', which is noticably lighter than Guinness, so don't worry over the lighter SRM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the brew is done, evaluate the hop balance, since that's quite a reduction in gravity - more boil utilization and less residual sweetness to balance. I'm sure the beer will be drinkable, especially given some time to mellow. I recently made a Stout with an unwanted biting hop bitterness, possibly from miscalculation/misweighing, but this has mellowed to a very drinkable beer after 3 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: although the same styles historically, there are are some recipe tweaks that are more typical of a porter: use of flavor and aroma hops, since stouts have typically bittering hops only, and the use of black (patent) malt for bitterness, where stouts tend to use roasted barley. But as with any rule, there are plenty of exceptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-31T00:58:23.447" LastActivityDate="2012-03-31T00:58:23.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6749" CreationDate="2012-03-29T21:27:33.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lines between the two blur a bit due to historical evolution porter was a dark raosty and smokey brew.  When brewers made them stronger they were referred to as Stout porters to indicate strength. In time the two have seperated slightly enough to warrant different catagories for each.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today Porters tend to be drier with a somewhat more acrid or ashy roasted malt character. Stouts will be roasty but in comparison you find the roast quality smoother and often accompanied with a higher finishing gravity as well as some chocolate malt character.  Gravities and ibus tend to overlap quite a bit depending on the sub styles of each when in head to head comparison. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, and this is just my opinion, homebrewers have largely lost touch with straight up porter because we tend to add things like bourbon vanilla cherries spices etc etc. more frequently than we do in stouts.  So the lines between them get difficult to compare when one becomes so abused with extra flavor additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going from Stout to a Porter or a Porter to a Stout happens in the recipe and the ingredients being used.  Less crystal malt and higher attenuation are good practices for Porter making.  Going for some residual sweetness and smoother roast character is where a Stout would fall.  But in the brewing process of one or the other changing the gravity with dilution doesn't necessarily get you from one to the other.  A grain bill for a robust Porter is going to really cut it as a Stout.  Likewise an oatmeal stout will never make it as a Porter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are some similarities in flavor and appearance the brewing of modern day versions of either of these are fairly different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-03-31T03:08:38.210" LastActivityDate="2012-03-31T03:08:38.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6748" CreationDate="2012-03-29T23:13:32.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've basically got it right, you usually want to raise the temperature towards the end of fermentation so that the yeast stay active long enough to clean up diacetyl and acetaldehyde.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically you'll start raising the temperature after 48-72 hours of fermentation. You don't want to do it sooner, because the yeast will throw off more fusel alcohol due to the higher temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I raise the temperature by a degree or two per day, until I'm at about 72. Then I let it sit for 2-3 more days before racking off the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't always have to do this, some yeast will finish the job even without the temperature boost; but with highly flocculent or low-attenuating yeast, the technique is very helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T23:13:32.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6756" CreationDate="2012-03-30T08:07:36.710" Score="5" ViewCount="25327" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every beer I've brewed and have seen done by others has had a sediment form at the bottom of the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some common mistake that I and others are making which is causing this to happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the sediment become solid at the bottom after some months, as to not be disturbed by pouring the entire contents when drinking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2106" LastEditorUserId="2106" LastEditDate="2012-03-30T15:02:20.993" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T20:47:53.627" Title="Is there a technique which prevents the deposit of sediment at the bottom of bottles?" Tags="|beer|yeast|bottling|sediment|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6755" CreationDate="2012-03-30T09:40:31.530" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not really a mistake but just a byproduct of the process of bottle conditioning which most homebrewers go through. The sediment is dead yeast cells and proteins that are in suspension in beer but drop out over time. You can reduce the amount of sediment by racking but unless you filter it out somehow you'll never get rid of it all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sediment will solidify over time but if you chill a bit before pouring and pour the beer out in one go (so maybe have two glasses ready) then you shouldn't disturb and will get a sediment free beer. If you mix in the sediment it will do you no harm but will affect the flavour of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-31T01:50:40.607" LastActivityDate="2012-03-31T01:50:40.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6749" CreationDate="2012-03-30T09:42:38.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no difference between a stout and a porter really - Martyn Cornell waxes lyrical about his here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://zythophile.wordpress.com/2009/03/19/so-what-is-the-difference-between-porter-and-stout/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://zythophile.wordpress.com/2009/03/19/so-what-is-the-difference-between-porter-and-stout/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically it has come to pass that a stout is typically higher gravity than a porter. Both are black roasty beers though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T09:42:38.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6755" CreationDate="2012-03-30T12:20:52.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Force carbonation. Also various clarification procedures (Irish Moss, filtration) to get rid of any remaining protein in the finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T12:20:52.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6749" CreationDate="2012-03-30T18:40:09.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just one more thing on the subject, i don't think i have seen Black roasted Barley on any Porter recipe and most Stout recipes do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2170" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T18:40:09.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6763" CreationDate="2012-03-30T18:54:34.953" Score="3" ViewCount="2028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now have an immersion wort chiller, it does a pretty decent job chilling boiling wort to around 85-90F very fast, about 5 minutes, but from there to 65-70 it takes a lot, maybe 15 minutes more and I waste a lot of water. I friend suggested that i put sanitized ice packs directly into the wort once it reached the 90F mark to speed things up. Just to be clear im not saying throwing the ice packs into boiling wort, I mean put them in after the wort has cooled enough not to melt the plastic on the ice packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think, would this work? do I risk infection? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2170" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-03-30T19:16:05.233" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T17:40:42.107" Title="Chilling wort using ice packs" Tags="|chilling|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6760" CreationDate="2012-03-30T19:08:09.627" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you have cleaned and sanitized the ice packs, this should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you stirring the wort while it cools? I find this helps a lot, especially as the temperature cools. Without stirring the cooled wort will sit over the chiller and the center of the pot isn't as effectively cooled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sticking your kettle in an ice bath once you get to the lower range could also help, without risking infection from adding ice packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T19:08:09.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6760" CreationDate="2012-03-30T20:53:47.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That could work, i would also fill them with boiled water.  What type of container did you have in mind?&#xA;Being the wort would be around 90F, HDPE may be overkill but you could worry less of any stress causing these to leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of these were to leak, the water would be sanitized, but that could totally screw up your OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T20:53:47.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6760" CreationDate="2012-03-31T03:00:37.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would pass on that technique.  Most ice packs I have seen have weird textured surfaces.  There is also embossed lettering on them too.  The likelyhood of actually sanitizing all though nooks and crannies is low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are talking about sourcing some uber smooth surfaced bottles and freezing them it might be worth a try on a few brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you try stirring the wort.  Put a good spoon in there right before you start chilling.  Once the wort gets down to 90F start stirring every once and a while to circulate the wort around the chiller.  That should help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind too that if your ground water is only 60F it will take a long time no matter what you do to stir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look into using a prechiller to get that chill water down to 40-45F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a pump to recirc the wort while using an IC (whirlpool chilling, not my idea. I take no credit for it.)  I go from boiling to 65F in 40 minutes this time of year.  In the summer I set up a prechiller and get about the same rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sound though like you are chilling really fast already.  Compared to most people, I think you are already using much less water than everyone else.  If its a big concern you could slow the flow and maybe add 10 more minutes to the chill, but save on water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-31T03:00:37.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6755" CreationDate="2012-03-31T12:27:22.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a technique to not leave sediment in the bottle.  However, it involves the use of a keg.&#xA;I have one keg that I use as a clarifying tank.  The dip tube has been trimmed up a few inches off the bottom.  I rack my beer over to the keg and chill.  Next day I add dissolved gelatin mixture (1/2 envelope to one cup warm water) to the keg let let it sit at cold temp for 4 days.  Transfer the beer to a new clean keg and the gelatin fining step has pulled all the sediment out, including much of the yeast.  In the new keg, I force carbonate and then bottle of the keg when ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only do this when I want to create sediment free bottles.  Most of the time I don't bother with the gelatin fining unless I am looking for something to do.  Even then I still serve off the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that sediment is a natural part of homebrewing.  Many of the best commercial breweries have yeast sediment in there bottles.  In fact in the homebrew environment bottle conditioning with yeast likely leads to more stable product due to oxygen absorption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-31T12:27:22.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6755" CreationDate="2012-04-01T14:29:47.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Irish Moss in the boil and then Gelatin toward the end of the secondary. You also need to be very careful not to disturbe the fermentor before bottling time. Place the fermentor in a place where you can get a siphon going (on a table or counter) at least 5 days before bottling time (7 or more is even better). When you put the racking cane into the fermentor, do it slowly and take care not to disturb the sediment on the bottom. Use a racking cane clamp or plug or something to keep the cane from moving during siphoning. Racking into a bottling bucket will stop any chance of accidental disturbance of the sediment. Then bottle your beer as usual from the bottling bucket. You won't be able to completely eliminate it, just take steps to reduce the overall amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like the idea of the clarifying tank using a keg (by brewchez). I think the only danger would be in racking it an extra time. You'd have to be really careful to avoid oxidization and have good sanitization techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-04-01T14:29:47.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2941" CreationDate="2012-04-02T01:18:07.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two Brothers in Warrenville, IL use labels that are actually difficult to remove and seem to be very water resistant.  You might want to check with them to see where they get their labels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2294" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T01:18:07.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6769" CreationDate="2012-04-02T01:50:51.657" Score="2" ViewCount="1090" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently brewing my first batch of beer and I have been checking on the temperature every day. Up until now the top of the beer looked normal and was fermenting as I expect. Today however, I looked at the top of it and most of the heaviness was gone which was replaced by what looked like flakes. Is this normal after 5 days? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFp6b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2288" LastEditorUserId="2288" LastEditDate="2012-04-02T21:08:22.423" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T21:08:22.423" Title="Why are there flakes in my beer after 5 days?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-02T02:07:25.123" Score="2" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year I was in Quebec with family and I picked up a 500-gram (1-lb) brick of maple sugar from the marketplace. This stuff is so hard that the locals use a cheese grater on it. It was cheap too. The only trouble it caused me was going through airport security out of Boston - it looks like what I imagine a brick of solid explosive might look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make a beer with it that will let maple flavor stand out, and I'd like to have it done in time for a big party we are having in August. Once upon a time I made a maple mead that was crisp and dry with plenty of maple flavor. This is my point of reference for maple brew, so I do not want something dark like a porter. I want something crisp and summery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much of this thing should I use in a 5-gallon batch of home brew? I know the answer will be recipe dependent, but is it crazy to use the whole thing? Should some of it be used in a primary and some in a secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-04-02T11:37:26.253" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T15:29:59.157" Title="What should I do with this 1-lb brick of maple sugar?" Tags="|adjuncts|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6767" CreationDate="2012-04-02T11:34:51.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most often when I see flakes in primary they are hops particles. If that's what it is, they will settle out over time. When you siphon for bottling or secondary most of them will be left behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I would strongly suggest NOT opening the fermentation chamber every day. You risk infection every time you open it. Just leave it alone for at least a week (preferably two) and monitor temperature with an external temp strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T11:34:51.510" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6768" CreationDate="2012-04-02T11:40:21.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used maple sugar but I imagine it would be very similar to using straight table sugar as far as recipes go. That means it will mostly ferment out and boost your ABV without necessarily adding any body or (much) flavor (I guess depending upon how dark the maple sugar is?). If you added it to an average pale ale my guess is you would get a very 'hot', strong ale with maybe a hint of maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use Beersmith to estimate exactly how much a given amount will change the gravity of a 5 gallon batch. Probably the full pound will boost it quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T11:40:21.487" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6768" CreationDate="2012-04-02T15:29:59.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question &quot;What should I do with this maple sugar?&quot; I'll say &quot;put it on your oatmeal&quot;.  Based on my own experience and that of several friends, it's nearly impossible to get maple flavor to come through in a beer.  The fermentation blows away all of the delicate maple flavor and aroma.  The one beer I've tried that had any maple character at all form sugar/syrup used so much that the beer has a strange &quot;woody&quot; flavor to it.  The only beer I've tried that successfully had maple flavor used maple extract.  So, the answer to your questions seems to be to save the sugar for use in something other than beer, where you can really appreciate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T15:29:59.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6774" CreationDate="2012-04-02T15:52:13.397" Score="13" ViewCount="35061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I buy most of my grain un-ground in bulk, because I don’t have a car my local HBS is way across town. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before brewing, I’ve been grinding grain using a food processor (with blades) until each kernel is, on average, in three or four pieces. This probably isn’t optimal, though, and I have some general questions about how to do it better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I be grinding my grain? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an affordable way to grind it “the right way” at home (that doesn’t involve spending hours with a rolling pin)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular grit I should be shooting for if I use the food processor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do other people who don’t buy pre-ground manage the grinding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2232" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T16:09:34.883" Title="How to best grind grain at home?" Tags="|all-grain|grain|grinding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6772" CreationDate="2012-04-02T15:59:07.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to do it is with a grain mill.  By buying in bulk, you can use the savings to amortize the cost of a mill pretty quickly.  If you have a friend who also brews, you can go in together on a mill to cut the cost.  The ease of use and increased efficiency from a proper crush will make you glad you got the right tool for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-04-02T20:43:39.857" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T20:43:39.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6772" CreationDate="2012-04-02T20:52:31.390" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're grinding a small amount of grain for a partial mash or speciality grain additions to an extract brew, you could use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.qualitygrainmills.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/corona-grain-mill.jpg&quot;&gt;Corona mill&lt;/a&gt;. They don't provide a particularly good crush, and your efficiency will suffer, but if the bulk your fermentables comes from extract, it won't matter too much. And it'll be miles better than a food processor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can often find these mills and second-hand and thrift stores for next to nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better, but more expensive, option is a roller mill like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://schmidling.com/maltmill.htm&quot;&gt;JSP malt mill&lt;/a&gt;. This sort of mill will produce a much better crush, will process grain quickly and is adjustable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to learn more about milling grain, Braukaiser has a great &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=CrushEval&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Based on the comment from @brewchez I withdraw my statements regarding crush quality from a Corona mill. My opinion was based on hearsay, his on experience, so I will defer to him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T02:26:27.840" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T02:26:27.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-02T23:50:32.790" Score="1" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing recipies posted online are very numerous, but I get the feeling that a lot of them might be 'ideas', and maybe have never been even brewed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure some members here have had success with posted recipes or posted recipes they have had sucçess with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have repeatedly brewed essentially the same recipe several times, like the result, maybe even won a ribbon, and that recipe is posted somewhere, I think it would be valuable to have a place to collect those links.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T14:33:24.700" Title="What posted recipes have you personally brewed multiple times and have had success with?" Tags="|recipe-formulation|competition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-04-05T19:38:53.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6775" CreationDate="2012-04-03T14:33:24.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think an 'answer' to this dilemma would be Brewing Classic Styles by Jamil.  All award-winning, all relatively simple.  The problem of the internet's wealth of information is definitely a lack of quality of the information.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T14:33:24.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6772" CreationDate="2012-04-03T17:48:38.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A grain mill is definitely recommended over using a food processor - you want to actually crush the grain rather than chop it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crushing the grain breaks up the endosperm to provide a greater surface area, improving efficiency, but without producing excessive amounts of flour. A grain mill, particularly the 3 roller type, doesn't tear up the husks, but keeps them relatively whole. The husks help with filtering the mash and lautering, and in theory, not crushing the husks keeps their surface area lower, reducing likelihood of extracting tannins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motorizing the mill can be as simple as attaching a fairly powerful drill in the region of 1 hp  , 700 W, or can be more involved, such as connecting a motor and a couple of sheaves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of references on the net for motorizing the mill. This one at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/component/resource/article/1171-motorize-your-grain-mill-projects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BYO&lt;/a&gt; inspired me to build mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/component/resource/article/1171-motorize-your-grain-mill-projects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Motorize your grain mill&lt;/a&gt;, BYO&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T17:48:38.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6797" CreationDate="2012-04-04T02:04:52.577" Score="2" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this All-Grain recipe that I'm converting to Extract. &#xA;Do you basically just increase the hops until the IBUs match the original measurement?&#xA;I've gotten the OG fairly close and the SRM is a little darker, which I'm expecting from extract.&#xA;I increased the boil hops and the IBU is only off by 8. &#xA;Anyone have any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is the original recipe:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Boil Size: 7.11&#xA;Boil Time: 60 min&#xA;Taste Rating(out of 50): 42.0&#xA;Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00&#xA;Mash Temperature: 150 F&#xA;Mash Time: 60 Minutes&#xA;&#xA;Efficency was calculated @ 70% Brewhouse&#xA;Est Original Gravity: 1.098 SG&#xA;Est Final Gravity: 1.021&#xA;Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 10.05 %&#xA;Bitterness: 138.2 IBU&#xA;Calories: 458 cal/pint&#xA;Est Color: 8.8 SRM&#xA;&#xA;14.50 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 70.73 %&#xA;3.00 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 14.63 %&#xA;1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 4.88 %&#xA;0.50 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 2.44 %&#xA;0.50 lb Honey Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 2.44 %&#xA;&#xA;1.25 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [15.20 %] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 45.3IBU&#xA;1.00 oz Simcoe [12.70 %] (60 min) Hops 27.5 IBU&#xA;1.00 oz Chinook [12.40 %] (45 min) Hops 24.7 IBU&#xA;1.00 oz Centennial [11.50 %] (30 min) Hops 19.1 IBU&#xA;1.00 oz Citra [11.00 %] (15 min) Hops 11.8 IBU&#xA;1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [9.40 %] (10 min) Hops 7.4 IBU&#xA;2.00 oz Amarillo Gold [9.40 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops&#xA;2.00 oz Simcoe [12.70 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops&#xA;3.00 oz Simcoe [12.70 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops &#xA;1.00 tab Whirlfloc (Boil 15.0 min) Misc&#xA;1.10 tsp Yeast Nutrient (Boil 10.0 min) Misc&#xA;1.40 lb Honey (0.0 SRM) Sugar 4.88% (Boil 10.0 min)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;And here is my converted recipe for extract:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Est Original Gravity: 1.089 SG&#xA;Est Final Gravity: 1.019&#xA;Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 9.4 %&#xA;Bitterness: 130.3 IBU&#xA;Est Color: 9.6 SRM&#xA;&#xA;11 lbs Briess Golden Light Liquid Extract&#xA;3 lbs Weyermann Vienna Malts&#xA;1 lb Briess 2 Row Caramel 20L Malt&#xA;.5 lb Briess Organic Cara-Pils&#xA;.5 lb Gambrinus Honey Malt&#xA;&#xA;2 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [15.20 %] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops&#xA;2 oz Simcoe [12.70 %] (60 min) Hops&#xA;1.5 oz Chinook [12.40 %] (45 min) Hops &#xA;1.5 oz Centennial [11.50 %] (30 min) Hops &#xA;1.5 oz Citra [11.00 %] (15 min) Hops &#xA;1.5 oz Amarillo Gold [9.40 %] (10 min) Hops &#xA;2.00 oz Amarillo Gold [9.40 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops &#xA;2.00 oz Simcoe [12.70 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops &#xA;3.00 oz Simcoe [12.70 %] (Dry Hop 12 days) Hops &#xA;1 oz Amarillo Gold [9.40 %] (Dry Hop 12 days) Hops &#xA;1.40 lb Honey (0.0 SRM) Sugar 4.88% (Boil 10.0 min)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2021" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T21:00:56.640" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T21:00:56.640" Title="Converting Hops in All-Grain to Extract Recipe" Tags="|all-grain|extract|conversion|hop-utilization|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-04T11:54:37.973" Score="3" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I was making an AG batch this weekend I had a 154 degree mash for 60 min but my mash-out temp only got up to 162 instead of 170. What sort of effect will this low mash-out temp have on the beer? The actual OG was only 0.001 lower than the expected OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T17:36:38.953" Title="Lower temp Mash-out" Tags="|mash|all-grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6780" CreationDate="2012-04-04T12:39:43.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You answered your own question with your observation that the OG was a point lower than expected, which could be completely unrelated to the mashout. I didn't notice any real loss in efficiency in my own system when I stopped mashing out at 1.070 and just got it up to 1.060 or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T12:39:43.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6782" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-04T15:26:44.420" Score="1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years (10+) ago I collected a fair quantity of my firestone kegs by going to a local metal scrap yard and buying them for about a $1 each.  Geographical area aside, are there still old soda kegs available out there for joe blow to buy, or have all of them been purchased and refurbished?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="745" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T15:29:07.090" Title="Are firestone soda kegs still available at scrapyards" Tags="|bottling|kegs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6780" CreationDate="2012-04-04T15:27:47.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 1 point gravity deviation is well within the limits of measurement.  I really doubt the &quot;mash out&quot; temp had anything to do with it.  For a true &quot;mashout&quot; you not only have to hit 170+, but hold it for 20 min. or so to denature enzymes.  My experience is that it doesn't really matter much.  The main advantage of raising the temp at the end of the mash is to solubulize and hopefully convert any remaining starches in the mash.  That's where any gravity increase comes from.  The temp you hit was certainly hot enough to do that.  There's a persistent myth that raising the temp will also decrease the viscosity of the wort and aid runoff, but experiments with room temp sparging have given lie to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-04-04T17:36:38.953" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T17:36:38.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6782" CreationDate="2012-04-04T15:29:07.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of them are gone, but the chances of finding them are decreasing.  The ones that are still there are more expensive than in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T15:29:07.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6786" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-04-04T17:31:31.077" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-04T17:31:31.077" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T17:31:31.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6787" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-04-04T17:31:31.077" Score="0" Body="The factor of alpha acids extracted from hops during boiling compared to the theoretical maximum. Typical utilization is 0.2-0.3. All things being equal, a lower gravity wort and longer boil times contribute to greater utilization. " OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-04T17:31:31.077" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T17:31:31.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6789" CreationDate="2012-04-05T00:25:30.390" Score="3" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just finishing up a American Ale and was told by another homebrewer that I could use the yeast cake in the fermentor to brew a hard apple cider when I transfered the beer to bottles for conditioning. The yeast I used was a Wyeast activator pack 1272 american 2. Is this true and does anyone have any suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T00:47:17.790" Title="Re-using the yeast cake for another brew!" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6788" CreationDate="2012-04-05T00:47:17.790" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I frequently re-use yeast cakes. It obviates the need for a starter and allows fermentation to start much quicker. It may also reduce the need for thorough aeration of the wort since the yeast have already reproduced to large numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However reusing a yeast cake from a beer for a batch of cider is likely to introduce different flavors to your cider. In particular I would be concerned about hops flavors/aftertaste. This may or may not be a negative thing to you, depending upon taste. It's safer to reuse yeast cakes for similar styles to avoid this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T00:47:17.790" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-05T01:01:00.700" Score="2" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using gypsum for the first time in an IPA I will be brewing in a few days. Today I was making the starter and thought:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since it's a hopped starter, why not add a pinch of gypsum?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end I used PDME and yeast nutrient along with 2g Columbus hops and a tiny pinch of gypsum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I usually do with anything I brew, I drew a very small sample to smell and taste it. When I tried I was blown away by the salty taste. Does this come from the yeast nutrient? Or from the gypsum?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done some calculations for the total ppm of Calcium and sulfate that I am after, but if only a pinch of gypsum already made my 2L starter that salty, maybe I need to re-think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should gypsum additions be calculated using final water volumes (batch size) or total water volumes? I was going to use 33g of gypsum to obtain 191 mg/L Calcium and 460 mg/L sulfate in 43.4L (total brewing volume). Those figures include additions from the city water supply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastEditorUserId="2788" LastEditDate="2016-11-30T16:04:40.107" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T16:04:40.107" Title="Salty Starter. From Gypsum?" Tags="|water|ipa|yeast-starters|chemistry|gypsum|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6791" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-05T05:57:24.090" Score="1" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not exactly a home brew question but this site seems to be the best fit in the stack exchange network for it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UwwevrWMo8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;You can home brew&lt;/a&gt; the beer in question with a kit produced by the brewery though it obviously isn't exactly the same. If there's an answer to be had I am sure someone here has it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/491/2128&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cooper's Sparkling Ale&lt;/a&gt; is the beer I buy most often. While I like Grolsch swingtops better (and my Dad loves that he can use the bottles for his brew) it's much more expensive and harder to find. Coopers is a family-owned brewery in South Australia, it's one of the few independent breweries left whose products can be found nationally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions about this bottle-conditioned ale:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer the 750ml size to the 375ml size. I always feel the beer from the large bottle has a much fuller taste and more intense bitterness to it. I've tried chilling both equally and pouring into the same sized glass. There could be variation due to batch but then some of the time I would expect to prefer the small bottle. Can this be explained by the larger volume of the bottle particularly as this is bottle-conditioned ale? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As much as I like this stuff it can sometimes give me the shade of a hangover from just one bottle. It's a heavy-ish beer at 5.8% ABV but an equivalent alcohol volume consumed as some other drink doesn't do it. I'm not talking about the home brew version here so it isn't my fault. Can I attribute this to the yeast in the bottle or to something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2311" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T18:03:52.590" Title="Attribute taste variation to volume of bottle?" Tags="|yeast|bottle-conditioning|bottles|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6791" CreationDate="2012-04-05T14:08:48.750" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like it is more likely a variation of batch to batch (either @ Coopers' brewhouse or in your brewhouse).  The wording of your question(s) is/are a little confusing, but are you speaking purely to your homebrewed clones of Coopers?  I have never had noticeable taste variation from large vs. small bottles.  Many of my brews I will use a mix of 12-oz bottles, 22-oz bottles, and others that I have collected.  Could it be that you are getting some yeast into your pour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewers yeast is chock full of B Vitamins, which is one of the things alcohol depletes your body of, so it is unlikely that consumption of the yeast is causing your H-O's.  So the commercial version gives you a hangover, but the homebrewed version doesn't?  If there is a high-ish sugar content, that could do it (but unlikely as I recall coopers as being a very dry beer).  Acetaldehyde (green apple-ish taste), which makes some people's faces red when they drink can also cause H-O's IIRC.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T14:08:48.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9787" CreationDate="2012-04-05T14:24:07.033" Score="6" ViewCount="3342" Body="&lt;p&gt;On an impulse last week I picked up some German &lt;em&gt;Merkur&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Herkules&lt;/em&gt; hops from the LHBS to use as flavoring and aroma hops in a pilsner, because I thought they might be an interesting twist. But now I'm not sure if they will really fit the style, or even the style of a &quot;light lager&quot;, since they're described as primarily bittering with some dual-use on the hop reference sites I've found for &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerlegends.com/merkur-hops&quot;&gt;merkur&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopsteiner.com/pdf/EBC%20P16%202007.pdf&quot;&gt;conference poster&lt;/a&gt; comparing them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had experience using them for their aroma? Or using them at all? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both have an AA of around 13-14, which is high for flavoring and aroma schedules, but the labels claim they're good for all parts of the schedule for pilsners. I haven't experimented, but have noticed (and also been told) that you can get a fair amount of bitterness from even a 25 or 30 minute boil, despite conventional knowledge. Does it sound like I might get appropriate bitterness if I left out a bittering hop and threw one of them in around 30 minutes, and the other around 5? And more importantly, which one should be used for each step? I could just open them both and choose after smelling them on brew day, if no one has recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1198" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T12:46:08.213" Title="Are German Merkur or Herkules hops noble enough to sub in a Pilsener?" Tags="|hops|flavor|aroma|bittering|pilsner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6790" CreationDate="2012-04-05T14:30:41.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your brew will definite taste salty with that quantity of minerals added. I would use a third of that amount. 150ppm calcium and 250ppm sulphates is really the upper limit of what you can comfortably use in the beer, and you will still taste a little salt up front, but often it goes with the style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some guidelines from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Mash_pH#Calcium_and_Magnesium_additions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HBT wiki&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Calcium: 50 - 150 ppm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Magnesium: 10 - 30 ppm (high levels taste    sour/bitter) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Sulfate: 50 - 150 ppm (accentuates hop bitterness, but    high concentrations (&gt;400) it is harsh and unpleasant)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Chloride: 0 -    250 ppm (concentrations should generally be limited to less than 100    ppm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are water sources with higher quantities of these ions used to produce good beer, the brewer will tailor the recipe and use techniques to accommodate the water profile, such as causing some of the solids to precipitate out of solution.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a homebrew setting, it's best to stick to the guidelines unless you know specifically from experience that adding more ions will improve the recipe. It's best to start gradually - much better to have brew where you think you could have used more minerals, rather than less. Adding too many minerals can result in an undrinkable beer, while adding too little will never ruin a beer, just take it a little off target. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't already have one, a jewelers 0-100g scale, 0.01g precision makes it possible to easily weigh out small quantities of brewing salts. They're only a few dollars on ebay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-05T14:36:05.520" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T14:36:05.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-05T16:26:22.870" Score="9" ViewCount="1873" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 6 gallons of a bretted whit that has been sitting in the basement for 8 months and a Pedio/Lacto/Brett Dubbel that has been working for about 7 months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted to reuse these cultures could I just throw wort on top? I know that one method is to use oak chips to preserve the bugs and use the chips/cubes from beer to beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of racking the finished beer into kegs that I use for other beers. The issue that I see is the chance of cross contamination. The beer that goes into the kegs is gone within a month so is this really an issue? Would one use a separate keg for bugged beers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used the same equip for bugged beers and had issues? Star San and B-Brite seem like a pretty harsh environment for a yeast to live through if the equip was properly sanitized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2230" LastEditorUserId="2310" LastEditDate="2012-04-08T22:42:57.130" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T19:43:34.753" Title="Brett, Pedio, Lacto. Reuse and kegging" Tags="|sanitation|brettanomyces|belgian-white|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6791" CreationDate="2012-04-05T17:58:00.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe bottle size affects flavor and I've never had it happen to me.  To test the theory, take 2 bottles from the same batch, one large and one small.  Have someone else pour 2 samples of one of them and one of the other.  Try to pick out the one that's different.  This is called a blind triangle test and is a very good way to test a flavor theory.  If you can consistently pick out the different one, there is a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-04-05T18:03:52.590" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T18:03:52.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6779" CreationDate="2012-04-05T22:22:24.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not the extract specifically that's the problem but the lower utilization resulting from the higher gravity of a partial boil. If you're not doing a partial boil, then no need to scale. But if you are, then your main recourse is to scale the bittering hops to match the target IBUs, as you've done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scaling the FWH addition is interesting, since as well as increased bitterness, you get some aroma contribution, but the difference if any will be subtle. More pertinent, how long will you be steeping the FW hops. FWH are typically steeped for 60-90 mins or more in a all grain brew, or longer - however long it takes to drain the mash, perform the sparge and then bring to a boil. It's this long exposure to warm wort that gives the higher utilization for FWH - sources cite a 10 percent increase. When doing a short steep, such as the time it takes to boil the water for the partial boil, I wouldn't count too much on the additional utilization from FWH and simply register these as regular boil hops unless you plan to steep them for the time indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I should say that this just splitting hairs and mostly academic - in practice a 5 IBU difference is not so apparent, imperceptible to some, and even more so with the high hopping rates here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/06/03/converting-all-grain-recipes-to-malt-extract/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;First Wort Hopping&lt;/a&gt;, Beersmith brew blog&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T22:22:24.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6800" CreationDate="2012-04-06T13:40:29.283" Score="3" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I kegged my first time (straight from a 3.5wk primary vs 2wk, which I recommend). I tried a little bit of the &quot;force carb&quot;, i.e. set to 25-30psi and agitate the keg until I didn't hear any more consistent CO2 flow. I tried not to overdo it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then wanted to &quot;Reset&quot; down and set to 10psi (American Ale style). So, I tried to use my little bleeder cap (pin lock keg) but every time I tried to release off the gas post I got foam/beer coming out as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I gave up (ok, technically I tried to pour a couple of beers just to see what would happen, and it was 90% foam that settled into 50% carbonated beer... a good start I think), and set it to 10psi and put it in the fridge to 34F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if my science-fu is strong, which it may not be, I believe/hope the following to be true, and would your help confirming:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) the foam coming out when I tried to bleed at first was from the beer being agitated and foamy and not a clean CO2 head at the top to &quot;purge&quot;. If I let it chill and settle, should I be able to purge from the gas post as necessary w/o liquid coming out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) after the beer chills more (it was at about 50F during initial carbing), leaving it stationary and gas line on to 10psi should continue/finish the carbonation process, and &quot;level&quot; off as the liquid absorbs the excess (and then constant) pressure, assuming I didn't somehow manage to heavily overcarb the beer itself (which I don't think I did based on the sample). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) I'm making it harder than it needs to be. RDWHA-hopefully-carbonated-HB-in-a-couple-days&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to say it was fun, and I think I did it OK. This was my first time using a carboy (super cool to be able to watch it for a change), an auto-siphon (luxury but nice), cold crashing (very useful), and kegging (just cool in general). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comments, answers, and accusations welcome :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2212" LastEditorUserId="2212" LastEditDate="2012-04-06T13:46:28.793" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T16:31:59.480" Title="(Should) my keg floweth over?" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6798" CreationDate="2012-04-06T16:06:26.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A short answer is that your beer will level out on the carb. Keep at 10psi-12 and you will be good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To card a beer in my kegs I set the psi to ten and just wait for 4 days. I have messed around with rolling the kegs and doing the high psi pushes to try and get the beer carbonated quickly but have never been really happy with the results. The beer always came out a little foamy and seemed a little troublesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would suggest is to find what psi your style of beer needs to be at and use a carbonation calculator: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewheads.com/forcecarb.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewheads.com/forcecarb.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then let the beer sit for around five days. Then drink!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy brewing!&#xA;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2230" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T16:06:26.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6798" CreationDate="2012-04-06T16:31:59.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All three of your assertions are correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer coming out of the gas out post could be because it's foamy, pushing foam up into the gas stem, or because you filled to above the gas stem - either way, the gas will then push beer out through the stem when you open the gas out post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than using the gas post, you can use the pressure relief valve. However, with such a small amount of gas in the headspace, you only need to just quickly pull it. To be honest, I wouldn't bother. There's no need to bleed of the 30psi - the gas in the headspace will dissolve into the beer given a few days, especially at cold temperature. Since the regulator is set at 10psi, there's no danger of overcarbing. You'd have to fill the headspace many times over at 30psi to do that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T16:31:59.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6795" CreationDate="2012-04-06T17:32:37.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I don't bug my beer, so this is not coming from experience but reasoned conjecture and corroboration by sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as sanitation goes, Brett is as easy to kill as regular brewers yeast. Jess Caudill, microbiologist and brewer at Wyeast, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f127/wyeast-brett-isnt-harder-kill-than-anything-else-118202/&quot;&gt;wrote&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;[Brett] is as easy to kill as any Saccharomyces cerevisiae strain of yeast. No crazy chemical cocktails are necessary... just your normal alkaline cleaning and acid sanitization. It's up to you if you want different equipment for your wild brews.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the bacteria, they have higher temperature tolerances, but can also be killed (mostly) by Starsan or completely by Iodophor (and bleach but not recommended.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem isn't so much the sanitizer, since iodine will kill everything it touches, but organisms being harbored in scratches and hard to sanitize areas. If a small amount of S. cerivisiae is left in a keg or fermentor, it does not real harm. Cross contamination of a small amount of a different strain of yeast will not make any noticeable difference to the beer. A contamination from the other microbes may also not initially make a huge difference either, but given enough time, such as in the bottle, they will have time to propagate and consume sugars not fermented by the regular yeast, causing overcarbonation and potential bottle bombs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are particularly careful cleaning the keg after using it to store buggy beer (e.g. dismantle and soak entirely in iodophor) then you will be fine - there will be no bugs left in the keg. But you're probably best not doing this with anything that is plastic, since that's almost impossible to make sterile due to porosity and susceptibility to scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f127/wyeast-brett-isnt-harder-kill-than-anything-else-118202/&quot;&gt;Wyeast: brett isn't harder to kill than anything else&lt;/a&gt;, [HBT]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-06T18:25:25.610" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T18:25:25.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6805" CreationDate="2012-04-06T21:38:20.660" Score="5" ViewCount="1525" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I brew a 5 gallon batch and a 15 gallon batch on the same system, would I see a different hourly evaporation rate between the two batches? For the sake of the question assume all other variables (boil gravity, boil strength, etc.) are the same between the two batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T00:11:11.340" Title="Does batch size affect evaporation rate?" Tags="|boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-06T21:55:38.207" Score="7" ViewCount="2189" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Background:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've purchased some lovely &lt;em&gt;dark roasted oak chips&lt;/em&gt; that I plan on soaking in bourbon and using to flavor an Irish Red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Friends of mine who have seasoned their beer on oak chips claim that you should rack your beer onto it in a secondary and &quot;rotate&quot; once every couple weeks to keep the oak &lt;em&gt;exposed&lt;/em&gt; to flavor the beer.  I've looked around at a number of sources on the subject, but I want to know what &lt;strong&gt;Homebrewing&lt;/strong&gt; thinks is the best way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Research:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beercollege.net/brew-beer-tips/how-to-use-oak-to-enhance-the-flavor-of-your-beer/&quot;&gt;options&lt;/a&gt; I've &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/content/using_oak_in_beer&quot;&gt;found&lt;/a&gt; for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2012/02/20/oak-in-your-beer-oak-chips-and-barrel-aging/&quot;&gt;flavoring&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realbeer.com/discussions/showthread.php?t=182870&quot;&gt;are&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add chips to primary after it has mostly cleared up. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place chips in a secondary and rack the beer onto them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil the wort with the chips.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add Oak tea (boil water or soak in liquor and then add that) to primary or secondary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With many variations in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm looking for a good full-bodied oak flavor.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Question:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the best way to add oak (chips) to a beer in order to impart the most flavor?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What say you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2310" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T15:30:05.683" Title="What is the best way to flavor beer with Oak?" Tags="|flavor|secondary|oak|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-06T22:31:54.367" Score="2" ViewCount="1210" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Background:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a large fan of bourbon flavored beers and have flavored a number of my homebrews with various bourbons with a wide range of results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What bourbons/whiskies result in a good flavor in beer?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone starting out with flavoring using bourbon, this is a question that will likely be raised along with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3492/is-there-a-difference-between-soaking-oak-in-bourbon-and-just-adding-the-bourbon&quot;&gt;Is there a difference between soaking oak in bourbon and just adding the bourbon straight into secondary?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/1099/2310&quot;&gt;Adding Bourbon flavor to a beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/1730/2310&quot;&gt;How much bourbon is the right amount?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And potentially:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6803/what-is-the-best-way-to-flavor-beer-with-oak&quot;&gt;What is the best way to flavor beer with Oak?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2310" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T18:45:05.490" Title="What bourbons work well for flavoring beer?" Tags="|flavor|bourbon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6802" CreationDate="2012-04-06T22:40:33.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With everything else being constant, energy in, losses to the environment etc.. all apart from the boil volume, then the evaporation rate (mass of water evaporated over time) will be constant also. Put another way, the evaporation rate is independent of the amount of water already there - with everything else constant bar the volume, the energy going into and coming out of the system is the same, so the evaporation rate must be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(With that in mind, you might think that it's curious that BeerSmith wants evaporation as a percentage. If evaporation really were a constant percentage, then you'd never be able to evaporate all the water, just a part of it (the evaporation percentage.) Yet boiling dry is something that anyone who has left a saucepan on the stove can attest to being very real occurrence!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is, in practice, changing the boil volume has knock on affects, so it's not practical to keep everything else constnat. For example, with a larger volume of water, there will be a larger surface area in contact with the sides of the kettle, and so more losses through the walls of the kettle. So even though the boil vigor is the same and the amount of heat going in is the same, more of that energy is lost to the environment with a larger boil, reducing the evaporation rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This loss can be quite significant, so in practice smaller boils will evaporate at a faster rate because there is less energy lost to the environment for the same boil vigor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-07T00:11:11.340" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T00:11:11.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6772" CreationDate="2012-04-07T00:43:26.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are stuck without a mill, try using a rolling pin, instead of a food processor. The rolling pin should at least crack the grain open. You might try crushing grain on top of a thin towel. The towel will stop the grain from rolling around while you try to crush it. It will take you a very long time to crush a &quot;full mash&quot; worth of grain using the rolling pin method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T00:43:26.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6625" CreationDate="2012-04-07T05:05:43.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live close to Seattle (puyallup) and we get UV rays even when its cloudy. you could through a pillow case over it but that wont block all the UV's maybe a open top cardboard box (assuming you want easy access).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultraviolet light is often used to purify water because it kills bacteria. Yeast Is a fungus which essentially is a slightly more complicated organism, therefore it has a little more fighting power against it's enemies (UV). Yeast stress is of coarse a big issue in fermentation and anything you can do to keep them yeasties calm the better, UV stresses yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical commercial &quot;beer skunking&quot; has nothing to do with yeast, It's more of a hop alfa acid thing... here is a great link &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/02/27/AR2007022700312.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/02/27/AR2007022700312.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T05:05:43.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6804" CreationDate="2012-04-07T05:18:27.497" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you could end up with problems adding straight bourbon to any fermentation even secondary because the added alcohol will stress the yeast. I would suggest soaking oak chips in bourbon then putting the oak chips into your secondary. as for soak time your going to have to play with that and do some research and figure out what works best for you and your processes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T05:18:27.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6804" CreationDate="2012-04-07T15:08:49.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if there's an answer to your question because it's totally subjective and based on personal taste.  For instance, I have a rather &quot;famous&quot; Bourbon Vanilla Imperial Porter recipe.  I use Jim Beam in it and it turns out great.  Other people also like the beam in the recipe.  But you've said you don't like it, even though I could recommend it based on my experience and other people's recommendations, it wouldn't work for you.  I can tell you that my experience is that if the brand of bourbon actually makes a difference, you may be adding too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-04-07T15:54:50.813" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T15:54:50.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-08T22:47:31.580" Score="4" ViewCount="2463" Body="&lt;p&gt;When working with brettanomyces &quot;Brett&quot; should I adjust the amount of priming sugar I use?  &lt;strong&gt;Does brett have any affect on quantity or quality (fineness of bubbles etc.) of carbonation in the bottle?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask as I've never used brettanomyces before and want to avoid bottle bombs as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2310" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T15:22:19.033" Title="Brettanomyces and Bottle Conditioning" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|over-carbonation|brettanomyces|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6811" CreationDate="2012-04-08T23:58:05.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brett won't change the amount of priming sugar you need.  Just be sure fermentation is complete before bottling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems people have had with Brett is if it is added later after another yeast, it can consume sugars the other yeast won't consume, leading to overcarbonation.  Also, it usually ferments slower than saccaromyces, so you may want to wait longer before bottling (and check the gravity regularly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer:  I haven't used Brett in any of my brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T23:58:05.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6803" CreationDate="2012-04-09T13:37:44.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have any experience with using oak yet, but from my research it seems the most common advice is to use oak chips/cubes in secondary and rack the beer on top of them. This simulates aging in an oak barrel. I would definitely avoid boiling the chips in the wort, who knows what the heat would do to the flavor profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since oak chips have a relatively higher surface area people seem to recommend using them only for a few weeks to avoid &quot;over oaking&quot; the beer. Oak cubes can be used for much longer, 4-6 months or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using chips, my recommendation would be rack to secondary on top of them (or bulk age first if necessary) and then taste weekly until you get to the desired level of oakness. I would sanitize by wetting the chips with a small amount of vodka (just enough to cover) for 24 hours prior to use, then dump the whole thing--vodka and all--into the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T13:37:44.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6818" CreationDate="2012-04-09T17:09:44.970" Score="2" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I brewed my first Lager. I chilled the wort to about 72 degrees and figured i should get it colder before pitching.&#xA;So i got the wort into a carboy and then got the carboy into to the freezer at 50F and left it there overnight. This morning i was about to pitch the yeast but noticed about 3 inches of sediment (is this cold break?) on the bottom of the carboy. &#xA;At this point i did not know what to do, do i pitch the yeast as is or do i rack the wort to another carboy leaving all that material behind? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2170" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T11:26:21.583" Title="Should I rack lager before pitching yeast?" Tags="|lager|pitch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6815" CreationDate="2012-04-09T17:31:04.837" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tests at the homebrew level have shown that there is no benefit to racking off the trub.  But it won't hurt, either, if you want to do it.  So, the answer is, either way is fine.  I'd be inclined to leave it based on the theory that the less you mess with the beer, the better off you are.  In addition, I can't think of a major brewer that settles then racks off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T17:31:04.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1490" CreationDate="2012-04-09T17:33:09.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are oversized O rings available to fix this problem.  One place to ghet them is William's Brewing (not an endorsement for the company, just the product).  There may be others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T17:33:09.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6815" CreationDate="2012-04-09T20:53:10.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you brewed from extract, then it probably is mostly cold break possibly some hop material as well. Even if you chilled in the kettle, it takes time to settle and so it would have been racked along with the wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not essential, but should you choose to do so you can keep the trub out of the fermentor by whirlpooling the wort in the kettle and leaving it for 15-30 mins until you can see the trub on the bottom of the kettle. Then transfer from the kettle leaving the trub behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem with so much trub is that it throws off your volume in the fermentor. You think you've got 5.5 gallons - half a gallon for samples and losses in racking, to reach a 5 gallon batch, but later find that a fairly large chunk of that is trub - invisible until it settles out, leaving you with maybe only 5 gallons into primary, meaning you'll probably only get 4.5-4.75 packaged. Not a problem when bottling, but a bit of a waste of capacity when kegging. Keeping the trub out of the fermentor is a big step to getting accurate volume in the fermentor and hitting your intended batch size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-10T11:26:21.583" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T11:26:21.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6803" CreationDate="2012-04-10T08:33:06.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I would do is a) add the chips in secondary and b) when you brew the beer put some test samples of chips into water at different amounts and leave it for two weeks in order to judge an appropriate amount of chips to use. I put 1g, 2g, 4g and 8g of chips into jars of boiled water and used these to judge the amount needed for the batch of beer and racked the beer on top of the appropriate level of chips. As an aside my understanding is that you get a different character from chips and cubes - the cubes being more effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T08:33:06.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6811" CreationDate="2012-04-10T08:34:33.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not noticed any effect in any of the Brett beers I've done - if I'm doing Brett stuff though I will always bottle into half champagne bottles or Orval bottles, assume that they'll be bombs and wrap the whole lot in bin bags just in case. I've not had any bottle bombs though but I think it pays to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T08:34:33.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6831" CreationDate="2012-04-11T12:07:57.067" Score="10" ViewCount="601" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I enjoy the heck outa making Hefeweizens. Its a great style and very wonderful when fresh. However, my Hefe's never seem to hit that &quot;clove&quot; note properly, they always lean much more towards the &quot;banana&quot; side of the flavor spectrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect this is because I am a single infusion masher. I've never bothered with a protein rest or any kind of steps, I just hit 150-155F and let it sit for an hour. Works great on my other beers, but I think it's making my Hefe's a little one dimensional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ferment in a fridge, usually at 64F, so it's not a temp control issue leading to more banana flavor. Furthermore, I like WLP380 Hefe IV yeast, which is supposed to give more balanced clove/banana than the WLP300. As such, I am pointing the finger at my mash schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does anyone have a mash schedule they use to accent the clove character?&lt;/strong&gt; And if its not too much, would you mind explaining what volumes of water you use to hit those steps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you think there's something else I can try besides a different mash schedule, that would be great too. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-16T18:01:53.727" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T18:01:53.727" Title="Need help accenting the &quot;clove&quot; character of my Hefes" Tags="|mash|wheat-beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6824" CreationDate="2012-04-11T12:10:03.233" Score="4" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm following a recipe from a book for an IPA that calls for the following (simplified) steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil water (3G/11L)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add Light DME (1lb/450g) &amp;amp; return to boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At 45 mins, add LME (6.6lb/3kg)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add hops, etc &amp;amp; boil another 15 mins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've put the malt ingredients into both &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Calculus&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewmate.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BrewMate&lt;/a&gt; but the SG/OG I'm getting are way off.  The book says I'm should expect 1.068 yet Beer Calculus is 1.049 &amp;amp; BrewMate is 1.048.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BC has the exact brands of extract, but BM does not, though that does not seem to make a noteworthy difference.  I'm using the brands listed by the recipe (Briess).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can see that's different from BM/BC and the recipe is that the calculators don't have any option for a late malt addition for the extract.  &lt;strong&gt;Will the late addition cause a higher SG&lt;/strong&gt;?  Should I add more malt to kick it up?  Or could there be something else at play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-04-17T03:34:06.867" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T03:34:06.867" Title="Does a malt &quot;late addition&quot; affect OG?" Tags="|extract|malt|original-gravity|specific-gravity|late-addition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6823" CreationDate="2012-04-11T13:54:02.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A late malt addition doesn't affect final gravity. The only difference compared to a regular addition is that a 1 hour boil alters the flavor and color of the extract to a small degree. (The wort gravity will also be different for most of the boil, affecting hop utilization, but since the recipe states a late addition, this will have been taken into account.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The different OG you're seeing must be because of a discrepancy in the recipe or the underlying PPG figures used in the calculators. &lt;strong&gt;My guess is your batch size is different from the recipe size.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plugged the recipe into Beersmith and got 1.056 for 5 gallons, and 1.047 for 6 gallons. Beersmith gives DME a potential of 1.044 and LME 1.036. The other calculators are a point either way of these values, so you would only expect a few points difference in the final OG at most. &lt;strong&gt;To get up to the recipe's OG of 1.068, the target batch size has to be set to 4 gallons.&lt;/strong&gt; (4.1 according to Beersmith.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, double check the recipe batch size that corresponds with what you are using in the beercalcs. If it's correct, then the recipe itself may have a misprint. Either way, simply scale up the values in proportion. E.g. to go from the 4 gallon batch to a 5 gallon, multiply the quantities by 1.25. To target 6 gallons, scale by 1.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T23:26:48.990" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T23:26:48.990" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-11T18:03:59.493" Score="4" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still pretty new to home brewing, so I'm sure I made about a hundred mistakes with this beer. I brewed a 1.079 OG imperial porter, and used Safale 05 (only one pack, unfortunately). First of all, I think I under-pitched the yeast, and then I only kept it in primary for seven days. I tasted it during racking, and there were definitely some pretty distinct fruity flavors there that I did not expect or want. The gravity read 1.032, so I assumed I did not have enough yeast for that big of a beer, and the yeast got really stressed out, hence the fruit. I added 1.70 cups of bourbon, an ounce of oak chips, and three cut-up vanilla beans at secondary, as per the recipe that I found. Since the gravity was still so high, I repitched into secondary with a new pack of 05, hoping that would kick-start more fermentation and get the gravity down to 1.017 where it's supposed to be. After four days, there is barely any activity in the airlock, so I don't think it's fermenting. Is there any hope for this beer turning out, or for those fruity flavors to disappear? I'm also concerned about leaving it in secondary with the oak chips and vanilla beans for too long. Could someone please point me in the right direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2322" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T21:52:00.780" Title="Estery fruit flavors in my vanilla bourbon imperial porter" Tags="|off-flavor|imperial|porter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6675" CreationDate="2012-04-11T18:05:29.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used both no-name generic Apple Juice as well as no-preservative organic apple juice. I did not notice any change in the taste really, but with the generic Apple Juice I did have to re-pitch the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be completely environmental, but I have my suspicions that something in the Juice caused the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just my experience, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tgunn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T18:05:29.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6825" CreationDate="2012-04-11T18:26:36.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fruitiness will reduce over time, espeically in big beer like that which can take a year or more to reach maturity, by which time the esters will definitely have lessened, so don't give up on this one just yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pitching dry yeast directly into secondary with a high alcohol content will lead to a poor fermentation. It will probably pick up eventually, but may need 3-5 days to get going. Next time, rehydrate the yeast first, and ideally make a small starter and pitch when at high krausen. This gives the yeast the necessary kickstart to get fermentation of the bigger beer going. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, little or lack of air-bubbles doesn't always mean no fermentation - best to take a gravity reading every couple of weeks to know for sure. US05 is hardy and works down to fairly low temps, but even so, raise the temperature to 65-68F if it's below that to give the yeast some extra help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to try a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/forced-fermentation-test.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forced ferement&lt;/a&gt;, to find out what the actual FG for this brew is. Then you know exactly what you're aiming for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a new brewer, you're bound to be anxious about the brew and curious to find out how things are doing. One of the best tools available is time, which can fix many problems, especially with the big beers! Take a gravity reading in a couple of weeks and I'm fairly confident you'll see the gravity falling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T18:26:36.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6825" CreationDate="2012-04-11T21:52:00.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of things that you can do to prevent the esters from occurring in your next brew&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hydrate your dried yeast according to the instructions before pitching&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr Malty&lt;/a&gt; to calculate the correct amount of yeast to pitch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Control your ferment temperature. US-05 will produce very few esters at 18C or 64-65F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T21:52:00.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6823" CreationDate="2012-04-11T22:26:37.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whats really screwed up is that for 5 gallons I get 1.057 which is right in the middle of your two (recipe OG and software OGs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What more likely is that you didn't get a good mix when you added your 3 gallon wort to the two gallons of make up water. ( I am assuming this is a 5 gallon batch with a concentrated boil). The lack of accurate mixing has led to a lower than reality gravity measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And no when sugar is added to the wort has no bearing on how many gravity points you get out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my math you can't get a 1.068 beer with that much extract.  At three gallons you are in the 1.090 range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T22:26:37.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6822" CreationDate="2012-04-11T22:35:03.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation is the best place to effect the Yeast Ester Production.  Specifically for Hefe's fermenting cold increases the production of esters that generate the clove smell you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermenting warm and under pitching both tend to increase the Banana characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you measuring the air temp in the fridge or the beer temp.  You may be fermenting at a higher temp than you expect due to the heat produced during fermentation. You may also want to try taking it down a few more degrees as well even though this is technically below the optimal range for the yeast. Just be sure not to take it down too far and end up with a stuck fermentation! In my experience though, Hefe yeasts are pretty vigorous and hearty yeast strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T22:35:03.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6822" CreationDate="2012-04-11T23:20:56.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do a mash rest at 110F-ish to develop some of the precursors that the yeast use for clove character. This develops ferulic acid in the mash which get converted to 4-vinyl guaiacol. Thirty minutes is fine, then infuse up to your sac rest temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But its easier to just ferment warmer say 72F, that will develop more clove vs. banana esters.  I ferment my Hefe as 62F to AVOID too much clove.  Seeing how you are at 64F I'd try the temp thing first.&#xA;If you go much warmer than that the yeast tends to produce more banana character than clove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record, I am a WLP300 guy myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always email Whitelabs directly.  They usually have more to say about each strain via email or on the phone than is posted on the website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T23:36:24.460" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T23:36:24.460" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6644" CreationDate="2012-04-13T14:57:30.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dried apricots rehydrate in the secondary and produce plenty of extra apricot flavor. In fact, I find the flavor from dried fruit to almost always be preferable to fresh fruit, even for strawberries. Chop coursely in a food processor and put in your secondary. It WILL take longer for the secondary fermentation to kick in and then finish as the yeast have to work harder to get the sugars from the dried fruit, but it will give it a wonderful apricot flavor. Just be sure to avoid the ones with sulfites on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brewing purees are also an excellent choice and usually well made. Just check their expiration dates if you can, sometimes the less popular ones sit on shelves of brew shops for a long time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternate fruit you can also try is lychee (nearly always canned in the US) or plums. Not enough people brew with plums. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want fresh fruit, early April is not a good time for most of the country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2242" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2012-05-13T19:56:05.507" LastActivityDate="2012-05-13T19:56:05.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6259" CreationDate="2012-04-13T15:00:33.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wrap it tightly in aluminized bubble insulation and put it into a cheap plastic toolbox. Mount the controller on the front or back and you can even open up the toolbox to get the unit in and out to clean it. Just make it easy to clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2242" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T15:00:33.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6811" CreationDate="2012-04-13T15:22:19.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the thick bottles to bottle with when using brett. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest not using priming sugar for the brett. I do not know your FG for the beer, but the brett will eat the residual maltose and produce c02. Adding priming sugar will either make the beer over carbonated or make the greater possibility of a bottle bomb. I just pulled a bretted dubbel that reached an fg of 1.008 from 1.017 within 7 months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to getting the carbonation right is to let the bottles sit. Forget about them for at least 6-7 months. Keep them in a warmer area of the house 65-70. Pull a sample and it is not carbonated enough let them sit another two months. Brett is very very very slow to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head that is produced by brett tends to be a little more rocky and light. Champagne is how i would describe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is to give it time and it will come out amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2230" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T15:22:19.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6803" CreationDate="2012-04-13T15:30:05.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently brewed a maple bourbon porter with a friend and he suggested an interesting technique. When we brewed he started some oak chips soaking in bourbon, and at bottling we filtered out the chips and put the bourbon into the beer.  This added some nice bourbon and oak flavor to the porter.  Could potentially be too much for a Irish red, but in moderation could work well.  Especially if you change the bourbon for an Irish whiskey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T15:30:05.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6838" CreationDate="2012-04-13T19:07:39.427" Score="10" ViewCount="14251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to all grain brewing and mashing, however I am about to brew a Belgian Witbier (Northern Brewer all grain kit) and I have a question about the mash schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only done a single step mash before (with a batch sparge) which is super easy, however this recipe is calling for a multi step mash:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protein Rest: 122°F for 20 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sacch’ Rest: 152 F for 60 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mashout: 170°F for 10 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the grain bill as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.5 lbs. Weyermann Pale Wheat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.5 lbs. Belgian Pilsner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lbs. Flaked Oats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the grains came in 1 pre-mixed bag not separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a protein rest?  What water ratio do I use for this?  How do I get the mash up to 152 after this (mash in a cooler so I can't apply a heat source), just by add boiling water to it?  If so what should I be looking to keep left over for the sparge/mashout?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually use a 1.25 gts./lbs. ratio for mash water and try to hit 6.5 gallons in the brew pot pre-boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming the 'Sacch Rest' is same as my regular mash step, and the mashout being the sparge?  Is this not correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-14T15:53:18.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T15:53:18.697" Title="What is a protein rest?" Tags="|mash|protien-rest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6837" CreationDate="2012-04-13T21:33:47.133" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's take the easy bit first - the sparge makes a mashout redundant, since the liquor will be above 170F. On a homebrew scale, dedicated mashouts are often of no benefit, and quite a bit of hassle if you have to do another infusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised the recipe calls for a protein rest. A beta-glucan rest at 110F is probably more appropriate, since that stops the oats from becoming gummy, improving lautering and can improve efficiency a few points with the unmalted grains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to decide yourself if the infusion worth the hassle. Many brewers these days stick to single infusion and use rice hulls to help with lautering. It makes for a  smoother brewday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose to do a double infusion, for calculating infusion sizes, you can use brewing software, such as Beersmith, or this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/mash/&quot;&gt;online infusion calculator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, to answer the question - what is a protein rest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grain contains chains of amino acids which form proteins normally used by the germinating seed. In brewing, these proteins on their own and in forming complexes with hop acids, contribute to head retention in the beer. The protein rest activates enzymes that break down the proteins into amino acids. A little is good for the yeast, but removing too many proteins negatively affects the head retention of the beer. A beta-glucan rest is more appropriate with unmalted grains, since it allows the starch to enter solution more easily and removes the gumminess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-4.html&quot;&gt;The protein rest and modification&lt;/a&gt;, How to Brew, J.Palmer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-13T23:02:05.150" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T23:02:05.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6675" CreationDate="2012-04-13T21:51:47.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can find organic juice over ther in the UK, I'd start there... they usually leave out the preservatives. Just read the label. Ascorbic acid (vitamin c) is ok. Pasturised is ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T21:51:47.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6837" CreationDate="2012-04-13T22:58:18.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;mdma's answer is good, you may not actually want to do multiple infusions or mash out, but I don't feel it solves the implied question of &quot;why would I want to do a protein rest? For this, I'll simply quote from the link he provided to Palmer's site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The typical Protein Rest at 120 - 130°F is used to break up proteins which might otherwise cause chill haze and can improve the head retention. This rest should only be used when using moderately-modified malts, or when using fully modified malts with a large proportion (&gt;25%) of unmalted grain, e.g. flaked barley, wheat, rye, or oatmeal. Using this rest in a mash consisting mainly of fully modified malts would break up the proteins responsible for body and head retention and result in a thin, watery beer. The standard time for a protein rest is 20 - 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a deeper understanding of malt modification, I recommend picking up the current (3rd) edition of Palmer's book. It's worth reading cover to cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for raising the temperature, yes, you would add boiling water into your cooler tun. It will thin out the mash, so plan on a low grain-to-water ratio for the initial infusion and a higher ratio for the sacch rest. Yes, the saccharification rest is the same as the main mash that most homebrewers use. It breaks down the sugars (saccharides) in the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use software like mdma recommended to figure out the volume of boiling water needed for infusion volumes. Palmer's book has the math worked out the long way; I did the manual calculations on my last brew just for the heck of it and missed by nearly 10 degrees, but had extra boiling water handy to make up for it at the cost of a very thin mash (~2.25 q/lb). I think my problem wasn't the calculations as much as more heat loss from my tun than I expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T22:58:18.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6847" CreationDate="2012-04-14T21:50:00.353" Score="7" ViewCount="6913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a single hop American pale ale with palisade.  It's not the greatest beer in the world, but seemed passable to me.  Another brewer tasted it and thought he picked up brett in it.  Palmer says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Brettanomyces is supposed to smell like horse sweat or a horse blanket. Raise your hand if you know what a horse smells like. From sweat, I mean. Anyone? I think Brettanomyces smells like leather, myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tasted my share of lambics, and I'm not getting any leathery or sourness. It's kegged in a 6 liter, so there's no traditional 'gusher test', but it seems to be pouring normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What ideas are available to attempt to prove or disprove that this beer has a brett contamination (&quot;brett infection&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T09:33:35.517" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T09:33:35.517" Title="How to identify a brett contamination" Tags="|contamination|brettanomyces|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5894" CreationDate="2012-04-15T14:49:42.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly using too much fruit, try reducing the fruit to around 6lb a UK Gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2331" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T14:49:42.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2366" CreationDate="2012-04-15T14:53:55.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is best added when the must is at room temperature, you don't say what temp it was added so to be on the safe side I would add another dose. A double dose won't harm the resulting wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2331" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T14:53:55.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6845" CreationDate="2012-04-15T19:16:21.643" Score="6" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the drawbacks (if any) of using a 4-gallon batch with a 5-gallon kegging system? And what if the batch is only two gallons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1937" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T20:35:37.987" Title="Kegging and less-than-keg-sized batches" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6844" CreationDate="2012-04-15T20:35:37.987" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go for it.  There's no harm as long as you purge the keg of it's air, replacing it with CO2.  At some point, every keg of beer has only two gallons in it.  Whether it's right at the start or if it's after 3 gallons have been consumed makes no difference.  If you don't purge the keg of air though, your beer will become oxidized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To purge, prior to racking your beer into the keg, hook up the gas-in line set to about 3psi and open the bleeder valve.  Let it run for about 30 seconds.  Then depressurize, remove the lid, and rack your beer into it.  After you put the lid back on, pressurize to your desired psi to meet your volumes of CO2 target, bleed off the gas, pressurize, bleed, etc. for four bleed-offs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T20:35:37.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-16T12:54:34.070" Score="4" ViewCount="8752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mead that has been sitting bottled in a cool underground closet for about a year, and the corks appear to have some mold growing on the outside.   Apparently the closet is a bit more moist than it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping to age this mead for quite a few years, so swilling it is not the preferred method of dealing with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a safe way to remove the mold from the corks?  Will I need to open and re-cork all of the bottles?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to prevent this in the future?   Will a wax coating help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked around online a bit, and now I have another question...   Is a moldy cork actually bad?   Will filaments from the mold eventually dig in to the body of the cork deep enough to reach the mead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-04-17T11:55:28.077" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T16:47:02.863" Title="How to safely remove mold from corks?" Tags="|wine|mead|packaging|cork|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6841" CreationDate="2012-04-16T13:49:56.277" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done intentional Brett brewing, and also have a friend who has a very persistent strain of Brett somewhere in her brewhouse that is popping up in all her beers. When young, Brett can taste kind of &lt;strong&gt;fruity&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;but not like normal ale yeast fruitiness&lt;/em&gt;) and starts to develop of flavor that kind of reminds me of &lt;strong&gt;vomit&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;em&gt;but its not as bad as it sounds&lt;/em&gt;. Just kind of &lt;strong&gt;&quot;off&quot; and acidic&lt;/strong&gt;, with a funky kind of edge. It becomes kind of &quot;&lt;strong&gt;cherry pie&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; like with age, even in the unintentional infections from wild brett, and in some beers, this cherry pie flavor can be quite nice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only ever smelled the 'leather' thing once in a sour, and it went away within a few weeks anyway. As I've never smelled a real horse blanket, I have no idea what that is supposed to be in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this isn't particularly helpful, but you will learn to spot Brett, as its pretty unique. Anytime I taste a beer that's a little thinner than it should be for the style, and its got that subtle cherry pie flavor, I immediately think of Brett.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another hint will be to look at the bottles (assuming you bottled this batch). Sour beers usually form a 'pelicle' or 'skin' on their surface, and its possible for them to form a tiny one in the bottle. If you see any film at the beer right in the neck of the bottle, then it's probably indeed Brett.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brett works slowly over time to dry out the beer as well. You can monitor the gravity over the next few weeks. If its dropping at all, then you've got a bug and you'll be risking bottle bombs if you bottled this batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LAST THOUGHT&lt;/strong&gt;: Palisade hops have a distinct kind of 'apricot' flavor when young (which I really love, btw). It's possible the other brewer tasted that flavor and thought it was Brett's fruity/cherry thing. If the fruit flavor fades over the next week or two, then it was just hop flavor, not an infection, that he/she spotted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Updated 4/17) One more thing, partially because of its high attenuation (but maybe other factors too), some Brett beers come across as dry and astringent at certain phases. So if you've got a beer that's getting more astringent over time, then you might have a Brett problem. Beers that are astringent because of mashing issues &amp;amp; dark grains always taste more astringent up front, and might loose a little sharp &quot;bite&quot; as they age, but not the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2012-04-17T16:54:49.983" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T16:54:49.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-16T19:52:42.310" Score="1" ViewCount="1374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in an area with very high alkalinity ~ 320 mg / l CaCO3. I am planing on using Carbonate Reducing Solution &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brupaks.com/water%20treatment.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CRS&lt;/a&gt; to bring the alkality down to acceptable levels for pale ales. To lower the alkalinity to ~ 40 mg/l CaCO3 i will need to add roughly 1.5 ml of CRS for every litre of mash liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, at this level Am i likely to taste the CRS? If there are likely to be off flavours i will probably cut my tap water with a known bottled water, although in the UK it is difficult to get hold of RO or DI water. Is there a better acid source to achieve my goal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastActivityDate="2022-01-27T16:23:03.540" Title="Can carbonate reducing solution lead to off flavours?" Tags="|water|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6850" CreationDate="2012-04-16T20:43:20.887" Score="2" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently fermenting a blonde ale, and I was thinking of adding strawberries after primary fermentation. However I don't want a full batch of stawberry ale, so I plan to rack only half of the 5 gallon batch onto strawberries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have another 5 gallon carboy that I can use, but am I risking significant oxidation by having half the carboy full of air? Is there anything else I can do? Should I buy a couple 1 gallon growlers? Other options? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2101" LastEditorUserId="2101" LastEditDate="2012-04-16T21:38:50.657" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T19:47:49.237" Title="Adding strawberries to half of a batch - too much oxidation in carboy?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|fruit|oxidation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6849" CreationDate="2012-04-16T22:07:56.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you add fruit like that, it's probably a good idea to do so when it's actively fermenting.  So I will presume that's the stage you are in, or that you will add something fermentable to get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking half of your actively fermenting batch into an empty carboy will probably not oxygenate to a level where you should be concerned because there will be a layer of CO2 formed between your beer and the air (CO2 being heavier than air).  If you want to be extra careful, you could go to the bike store and pick-up one of those tire fillers, and use that to purge the vessel of oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T22:07:56.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6853" CreationDate="2012-04-16T22:19:54.073" Score="0" ViewCount="981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be bringing several styles to a wedding, but this same question would work if I wanted to brew several styles for a competition.  We have a given date for the group of beers to be ready to drink.  Are there any tools that would show me, all batches together, what I need to be doing?  I realize I can put each batch into something like brewsmith and get the dates, but wondered if there was a tool with a consolidated brewing calendar kind of thing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2 Months later:&#xA;I wrote my own software to give me what I wanted.  I'm sharing it with the other BeerSmith2 users.  I did a little video of me using the software: &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/D5H-xLc768o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;smithalyzer demo video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-06-29T03:17:29.470" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T03:17:29.470" Title="What brewing calendar tools are available?" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6846" CreationDate="2012-04-16T23:29:14.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure you can &quot;easily&quot; be assured that you have destroyed all of the mold spores embedded within the cork. There are chemicals that are used where interior flood damage has occurred to completely destroy mold spores in wood and other porous materials, however they are expensive, and not always available to &quot;the public&quot;. Using anything like bleach, hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, ect, will eliminate most of the spores but not all. AND it will contribute to the total moister content of the cork. Without solving the issue of high humidity in your closet or storage space, the problem will continue to return again and again. Because the cork is porous you will never be able to destroy all mold spores without compromising the condition of the cork and/ or mead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what to suggest as a solution to the bottle problem, I'm thinking replacement of the corks is the only way to go, but I have no experience as to what it will do to the over all condition of the mead. However you need to solve the issue of the &quot;high moister content&quot; of your closet. If you want to be really safe, I would also clean the closet space and wash the walls and ceiling with a mild bleach solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T23:29:14.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6851" CreationDate="2012-04-16T23:48:33.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well i use beersmith 2, you can enter several batches and the calendar tool is nice. I will give a calendar view with each step marked for all the batches you have going.&#xA;Heres what it looks like: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VtbVI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Beersmith screen shot&quot;&gt;&#xA;Also iBrewMaster for the ipad/iphone does a very nice job with your batch schedule, i like that it will give you notifications when you have to bottle or keg, or when your ready to serve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2170" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T23:48:33.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6846" CreationDate="2012-04-17T16:47:02.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say brush most of the mold off the corks and then clean them with some sulfite solution or other strong sanitizer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solve the moisture problem in your closet, or store the bottles elsewhere. If you keep the exterior of the corks dry; it will be difficult to impossible for any residual mold to continue growing without water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T16:47:02.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6795" CreationDate="2012-04-17T19:43:34.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't throw wort on top of your old brett/pedio/lacto cake, the ratio of bugs will be different from your original pitch. You'll have an abundance of the pedio/lacto and probably not too much brett or saccaromyces left alive. One option of reusing your bugs would be to ferment a batch of beer with a new pitch of saccaromyces and then add some of the brett/pedio/lacto to it after a week or so to begin the souring process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T19:43:34.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-17T20:36:26.997" Score="7" ViewCount="1206" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banana_beer&quot;&gt;Urwagwa&lt;/a&gt; is a popular beer in Rwanda made from bananas, and I'd like to brew some myself. The recipes and methods I've read online have some very traditional methods (e.g. Bury the bananas for a while!) and most recipes ask for Sorghum as a leavening agent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know if anyone has a substitute for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commercial_sorghum&quot;&gt;sorghum&lt;/a&gt; and also for the method (the ones I have read only require the brew to be fermented for 24 hours - could/should it be done for longer?) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I just follow some basic banana beer recipe - or will that just leave me with something nice, but not authentic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this is too specific, but I got a bit curious and wanted to make something exotic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2257" LastEditorUserId="2257" LastEditDate="2012-04-17T21:49:51.960" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T12:44:23.643" Title="Can I make urwagwa?" Tags="|beer|ingredients|fruit|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6857" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-18T02:29:22.657" Score="2" ViewCount="1057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I successfully fermented a must of lemonade, dextrose and honey with EC 1118. It is good but very dry. I racked it into a secondary and added more lemonade concentrate for sweetness. My problem is I left the concentrate cold and stopped fermentation altogether. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted it to be carbonated but not sure how to make that happen at this point. Also would like to know if it is ok to condition in the secondary or should I just bottle it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2332" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T19:25:09.347" Title="Hard lemonade secondary fermentation" Tags="|carbonation|secondary-fermentation|lemonade|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6857" CreationDate="2012-04-18T13:37:40.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to paraphrase, your main goals are to reduce the amount of dryness and to carbonate (in the bottle.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the concentrate is fully fermentable, then adding more concentrate can only help you achieve one of goals but not both at the same time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the unfermented concentrate in the must add potassium sorbate to halt fermentation, leaving unfermented sugars in the must. You get sweetness, but no carbonation, since the yeast are inhibited by the sorbate, and can't ferment in the bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can bottle, and let the yeast ferment the concentrate to provide carbonation. You get carbonation, but not the residual sweetness. (And since the quantity is presumably unknown, you risk overcarbing or exploding bottles.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add sweetness, you can add &lt;strong&gt;food grade glycerin&lt;/strong&gt;. This adds sweetness and body, and is often used in winemaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In principle, you could then bottle with the concentrate already added as priming sugar. However, I wouldn't do that since you don't know how much CO2 will be released, risking potentially exploding bottles. Instead, ferment out the added concentrate - raise the temperature a few degrees and then gently rouse the yeast to help kick start fermentation, and If that doesn't work, pitch some more yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the yeast have fermented out the concentrate, rack to a bottling bucket with added priming sugar - you can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;calculate&lt;/a&gt; how much priming sugar to use to reach 2.5-3.0 volumes of CO2. Then bottle away - the amount of priming sugar is known, so no bottle bombs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-18T18:38:11.310" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T18:38:11.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-18T14:22:46.057" Score="5" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago I made my first mead (actually a braggot). I ordered a 12 lb bucket of raw honey. To my surprise, when I opened it the honey inside was a creamy, almost foamy opaque white. It didn't seem to be crystalized, just 'whipped' in appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After brewing and adding the honey, I got an unexpectedly high gravity reading. The must/wort looked stratified somewhat even after vigorous shaking and would settle into a dark, cloudy lower level and a lighter transparent amber layer on top. There was a fair amount of particles in suspension, some I think from the fermaid but also pollen and debris from the honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gravity taken from the middle was off scale high (&gt;1.135, probably around 1.160 or even 1.2) and the gravity from the very top was 1.127. I expected to get a gravity of 1.135 from Beersmith.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the white honey made an unusual contribution to gravity? Now weeks later my gravity is at 1.043 and I'm trying to figure out if it's done or if I have a stuck fermentation (using EC-1118).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I should specify also that it was a 5 gallon batch along with 6 lbs of amber DME and hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastEditorUserId="2126" LastEditDate="2012-04-18T16:57:20.187" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T18:37:12.760" Title="Does white honey have greater effect on gravity?" Tags="|specific-gravity|mead|original-gravity|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6859" CreationDate="2012-04-18T16:52:45.903" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pure sugar is the most fermentable substance, at 1.046 points per pound per gallon. With 12 pounds of sugar in 3 gallons, you'd expect a OG of 1.183. Honey has an estimated yield of 35 ppg, and correspondingly the gravity would be lower - 1.135.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be 3 possibilities for the observed high gravity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the stratification is causing the reading to be off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you were given more than 12lb of honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the honey was cut with sugar, giving an overall higher ppg yield. This might account for the white fluffy appearance. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, to accurately measure gravities off the scale on the hydrometer, dilute the sample with an equal volume of water and mix well. The actual gravity is then double what the hydrometer reads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To accurately determine if the fermentation has reached terminal gravity or stuck, you can perform a forced ferment of a small amount in a separate vessel with some new yeast at a warm temperature for a few days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-18T18:37:12.760" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T18:37:12.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6851" CreationDate="2012-04-18T18:00:04.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Northern Brewer has a brewing calender setup on google calenders with brewing time frame suggestions for nearly every variety of beer it looks like.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing-calendar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing-calendar/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;+Google Calender&quot; link on the lower right portion of the calender will allow you to sync this with your existing Google calender account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could sync this and individually add your actual brew, bottle, and serving dates....this is basically how I keep track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T18:00:04.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2117" CreationDate="2012-04-18T18:57:45.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;www.brewersfriend.com has an online recipe utility allowing for late additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T18:57:45.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6857" CreationDate="2012-04-18T19:25:09.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very difficult to simultaneously get both a) carbonation, and b) sweetness. Particularly if the product in question is dry after fermentation is complete. See the answer by mdma for the reasons why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are basically two ways around this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Force carbonation. You kill the yeast activity via chemical (sorbate) or thermal (pasteurization) means. Sweeten to taste. Force carbonate in a keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Artificial backsweetening. Add sucralose (Splenda) to taste. Add a pre-calculated amount of priming sugar. Bottle and wait for natural carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose option #2 you'll have to wait for the extra concentrate to ferment out first, otherwise you risk bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T19:25:09.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6856" CreationDate="2012-04-19T12:44:23.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have access to millet? That's a very close sub for sorgum. This might not sound appealing, but millet is usually available in pet stores as bird food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking around, i spotted a few recipes on &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewtalk.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;homebrewtalk.com&lt;/a&gt; for Rwandan banana beer, and a few folks used Oats instead of millet or sorgum, so that seems like a good sub as well, and certainly available to you. The oats/millet/sorgum is typically toasted then mashed with the banana juice/pulp. One thing to remember is that in the traditional technique you don't boil the mash, and so lots of wild yeast do the conversion and fermentation. The end result is meant to be drank very young, and gets more sour the longer you leave it. If you want to ferment this like a 'normal' beer, you'd need to add some 2-row or 6-row to the mash to do the conversion of the other grains, then bring it to a boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it seems like a lot of people report pretty good results from these recipes, so I think this beverage isn't too hard to make. good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T12:44:23.643" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6868" CreationDate="2012-04-22T01:26:34.973" Score="5" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just put 5 gallons of hard apple cider in a better bottle to ferment. I would like to add some cinnamon, is there a good time and do I have to do anything special when I add it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-22T13:20:40.217" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T13:20:40.217" Title="Additions to hard apple cider" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6869" CreationDate="2012-04-22T01:42:34.863" Score="5" ViewCount="17958" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're making some big upgrades to our homebrew system and one of them involves moving everything to 1/2&quot; fittings and barbs. This means we need 1/2&quot; tubing that will easily and reliably fit on the barbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is regarding different options in tubing. I've been using the 3/8&quot; clear plastic tubing from the LHBS, but I'm curious if anyone has thoughts on other options. Silicon tubing has better temperature characteristics I hear? Does it last longer? Do you worry at all about impacts on the beer? Are there other better options out there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically I will need tubing to recirculate (I suppose by hand for now) and sparge in our new converted keg mash tun, as well as standard racking needs of course. Eventually (hopefully not too long) I plan on adding a march pump as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't been worried about tubing up to now because racking just doesn't take that long, but I was curious if anyone had strong feelings on the matter. Do you all use the clear plastic tubing or have you found a way that works better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1287" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T09:06:36.060" Title="Benefits and drawbacks to different tubing types?" Tags="|equipment|all-grain|racking|tubing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6866" CreationDate="2012-04-22T01:55:35.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not an expert, but I made a mead not too long ago with a tremendous amount of cinnamon (stick form). I made the mistake of adding the cinnamon before the fermentation and had a lot of trouble getting it to start. An otherwise identical batch made at the same time had no trouble with the same yeast. While this wasn't a cider, after some reading I learned that cinnamon can inhibit fermentation, so it's often recommended to add it after fermentation. It sounds like this is better for the yeast and otherwise has no adverse effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I also made a mead the year before with less cinnamon, but that was still added before fermentation, and it had no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, there is a journal article that had some helpful figures and info:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://aem.asm.org/content/47/2/229.full.pdf+html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://aem.asm.org/content/47/2/229.full.pdf+html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1287" LastEditorUserId="1287" LastEditDate="2012-04-22T02:23:12.537" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T02:23:12.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6867" CreationDate="2012-04-22T06:04:05.860" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to use the clear vinyl tubing also. The pros for this kind of tubing are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's transparent, so you can see the contents clearly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's relatively inexpensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's food safe at room temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are some significant cons also&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at typical mash temperatures, the tubing becomes soft, and doesn't support the weight of the wort, so it collapses and kinks, sometimes cutting off flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's &lt;strong&gt;not food safe&lt;/strong&gt; above 135F, since there is risk of leeching plastic into the wort. Also the pressure tolerance drops with higher temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, pvc tubing is recommended for cold wort transfers only, such as when racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For hot transfers, there are a couple of alternatives&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Silicone tubing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Highly temperature resilient, up to 480F,250C. Can be put in the oven at 350F to sterilize.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Semi transparent - you can see the presence of liquid and/or air bubbles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fairly rigid, doesn't kink under typical brewing use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flexible, has a bend radius of a couple of inches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Little absorbtion and cross contamination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No &amp;quot;memory&amp;quot; effects - can take on any shape after being coiled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max pressure is 30 psi. Fine for pumps, but will balloon if connected to water mains.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be split/shred by sharp objects, such as the hose barb and worm clamp - special worm clamps can be used to avoid this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be expensive - look around for good deals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Thermoplastic tubing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;temperature resillient, up to 275F, 135C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very thick walled, rugged, does not collapse or kink&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retail price cheaper than silicone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;completely opaque, not possible to see the contents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inflexible - has a minimum bend radius of around a foot - coiling smaller than that restricts the flow even though it doesn't kink.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;memory effects - after being coiled for storage, it will want to stay in a coil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;difficult to clean and sanitize without a pump. The rigidity made it difficult to put this in a bucket of PBW or sanitizer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also norprene tubing, although this is more expensive than both of the other tubing types, and also fully opaque, so it's seldom used in brewing, other than for peristaltic pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've upgraded my brewery twice from the original PVC hoses, and over the years have used all 3 hose types. None of these hoses are completely ideal, but I have settled for silicone for most of the brewery since it was the easiest to work with - mash recirc, transfers between kettles, dumping to fermentor. I use braided vinyl for water supply and the water out side of the wort chiller since it can withstand mains water pressure, and regular garden hose isn't food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T09:06:36.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2012-04-22T07:52:07.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dextrose is 100% fermentable, but you need to slightly increase the amount of Dextrose to get the same result as Sugar, meaning for a ferment requiring 6kg of Sugar, you would use slightly more than 6 kilos of Dextrose. I cannot say how much extra because I'm not really sure myself. However in saying that, my first ferment with Dextrose produced a much cleaner ferment than the one with White Sugar. The wash with White Sugar produced a ring around the water level in the fermenter, but the wash with Dextrose did not, I used the same yeast, and the same process, so all I put it down too is from using White Sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2337" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T07:52:07.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6867" CreationDate="2012-04-22T12:45:10.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 100% Silicon tubing like this stuff from &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/17608//Tubing_-_Silicone_1_2%22_ID_-_By_the_Foot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MoreBeer&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Its excellent heat range, very flexible at all temps.  The walls are pretty thick so it'll withstand some pressure.&#xA;I use a pump to recirc and transfer from vessel to vessel.  Each tubing run isn't all that long so I can still easily soak it in a bucket of cleanser if needed.  In fact my racking cane tubing is longer than any one run in my pump/brewing setup.&#xA;It is opaque but you can see that beer is running through it, even pilsner worts.&#xA;I don't use disconnects yet, so I just loosen a hose clamp and move it to the next fitting.  I haven't seen any adverse wear or tear on the tubing.&#xA;Despite its slightly higher expense over vinyl, its pretty rugged and I don't see a need to replace it any time soon (8 batches in). I imagine it gets expensive if you want to do a ridiculous amount of plumbing with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100% silicon is the stuff to use. Its what every brewer I know uses for this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T12:45:10.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6874" CreationDate="2012-04-23T03:10:07.473" Score="10" ViewCount="3615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to brew a very high gravity stout. I'm expecting an OG between about 1.118 and 1.138 depending on how much my efficiency suffers. I've done this before with decent results, but I think I can provide a better fermentation than I have before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to mash pretty low (140-145F) so that I will have a very fermentable wort, and to minimize residual sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect that I will want to use two yeasts; one to achieve the desired flavors (esters) and one to brave the extreme alcohol concentration and eat what it can. I'll probably stick with something like Wyeast 1272 (American Ale II) for the former; the latter I am a bit unsure about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, I've used champagne yeast, and I can't say I really had problems with it. However, even with a mash focused in the beta-amylase range, I still had a pretty sweet beer -- even after aging for a couple years. I'm wondering if another high-alcohol-tolerance yeast might attenuate a little better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this end, I'm considering using another yeast, like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp775.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wyeast 775 Cider Yeast&lt;/a&gt;, that claims to attenuate much higher (over 80%). Wyeast even claims in its description of the yeast that it can be used for high gravity beers. &lt;strong&gt;In my case in particular, can a yeast really affect attenuation that much?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More subjectively, &lt;strong&gt;would you recommend another yeast for high alcohol fermentation&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to ferment a bit lower to help keep excessive esters / fusel alcohols out. Something like 66F. &lt;strong&gt;Is this appropriate, or will I be hampering fermentation?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, &lt;strong&gt;should I let let the &quot;base yeast&quot; ferment until it has virtually stopped&lt;/strong&gt; before pitching my high-alcohol-tolerance yeast, &lt;strong&gt;or should I pitch as it nears its theoretical tolerance limit&lt;/strong&gt;? I ask because I'm concerned about the effects that might occur when the yeast hits its limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm aiming for a 10 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm shooting for as much attenuation as possible. If I can get it up near 80, I'll be quite happy. I think I'll make a low gravity Dry Stout as a starter (5-10 gallons at about 1.040).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2012-04-23T20:47:44.083" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T20:47:44.083" Title="Yeast for very high gravity (1.138) stout" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|stout|alcohol|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6872" CreationDate="2012-04-23T15:43:23.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you need a &quot;different type&quot; of yeast for this.  In addition, I've found t hat using yeasts other than beer yeast can give you strange flavors that you don't really want.  The key here is going to be to pitch a large quantity of healthy yeast.  I'd make a 5 gal. batch of a 1.040-50 beer and use the entire slurry from it for your stout.  Keep the temps under 65F for the first week at least.  While yeast type may affect attenuation a bit, the main key is wort fermentability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-04-23T18:33:16.890" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T18:33:16.890" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6872" CreationDate="2012-04-23T16:08:26.903" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The different strains of yeast really do affect attenuation considerably. I've had split batches of 1.055 beer coming out with FGs of 1.007 and 1.014 just from different strains of yeast. (The lower one was US-05.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not made a beer this big, but if I did, this is what I'd be thinking. As OG increases, FG increases faster since the yeast have a harder time, so getting the FG down will be the key concern. All the usual advice for big beers applies, only double.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want the characteristics of a specific yeast, such as the esters you mention, but also 80% attenuation, make a blend of yeasts. Choose your preferred yeast, plus a hardy, dry-fermenting, clean strain: WLP001/WY1056/US-05 are all the same strain with 80% attenuation and will go a long way to keeping down the FG. S04 is also very good  and produces enough flavor that it could easily stand on it's own without needing a blend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since you need a lot of yeast, consider pitching on top of a yeast cake from the previous batch. Normally, this is overkill, but necessary here to ensure you have sufficient yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add nutrients, and aerate the wort very well, ideally oxygenate if you have the equipment. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;66F is fine for the start of primary, you might even go lower. The temperature will need raising towards the end of primary fermentation to encourage the yeast to continue metabolizing as the environment becomes toxic. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the end of primary, especially if the FG is higher than you like, pitch a couple of liters of actively fermenting yeast. This can reduce the FG by a few points, and cleanup the beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, I'd stay away from the cider yeast, and wouldn't consider pitching it in primary, at least, not without doing a pilot brew first. Keep the cider yeast as a last resort if pitching fresh yeast after primary doesn't bring down the FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-23T16:16:44.180" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T16:16:44.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-24T15:44:15.130" Score="2" ViewCount="836" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm doing my first &quot;Big Beer&quot; this weekend.&#xA;It's an Imperial IPA with an estimated OG of 1.096.&#xA;I'm using Wyeast 1056 with yeast nutrient, a shot of pure O2 and intermittent shaking.&#xA;Using Mr.Malty's calculator, it says I will need a 1.56L starter w/ 2 smack packs.&#xA;Now usually I make my starter on Thursday evening for a Saturday afternoon brew session.&#xA;But, since this is such a bigger beer then I usually brew, I was wondering if I should do anything extra or different this time to get the yeast prepared&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2021" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T18:20:40.423" Title="Yeast Starter for a &quot;Big Beer&quot;" Tags="|yeast-starters|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6877" CreationDate="2012-04-24T15:53:52.527" Score="6" ViewCount="4625" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long should I keep something immersed in StarSan/swish it around for to ensure that it's as sanitized as I could reasonably hope it'll be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know everyone has a rule of thumb for this (I use 1min myself), but I was wondering if there are any hard numbers (culture tests or contamination rates etc) for this. How long does StarSan take to effectively sanitize something (clean plastic or metal)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2232" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T15:59:09.820" Title="What's the minimum safe immersion time to sanitize something with StarSan?" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6876" CreationDate="2012-04-24T15:59:09.820" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Charlie Talley from StarSan has said that 30 second contact time is 99+% effective. That is based on tests that they've done.  Immersion isn't necessary.  I keep StarSan in a spray bottle and just spray things down, wait 30 seconds, and use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T15:59:09.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6875" CreationDate="2012-04-24T16:00:33.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to make my starters well in advance so they can ferment out and I can decant the spent wort, rather than pitching it into my nice fresh wort.  Also, you can make a larger starter and only use 1 smack pack if you want to save some money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T16:00:33.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6875" CreationDate="2012-04-24T18:20:40.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a really big beer (and 1.096 is pretty big) you might consider making a full batch of 'little' beer as a starter (OG of 1.040-50). I would consider doing a smaller, mild-tasting session ale so as to not potentially contaminate the 'big' beer with residual flavors. After primary is finished, siphon off the beer and pitch your big beer wort directly on top of the yeast cake. Use a blowoff tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T18:20:40.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6849" CreationDate="2012-04-24T19:47:49.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look into one of those Portable CO2 Carttridge Chargers (if you don't already have a CO2 system for kegging). Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=4&lt;/a&gt; will work great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Spray&quot; the CO2 down into the carboy gently over some time and it should displace the O2 in the carboy.  You can also use the same method to push the beer from one carboy to the other via one of those orange caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Graham said in another comment, for the fruited beer, you're probably fine as the yeast will ferment the sugars in the fruit and blow the oxygen out fairly quickly (there WILL be some staling/oxygenation but it should be relatively minor)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, 1 gallon growlers will also work brilliantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T19:47:49.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2223" CreationDate="2012-04-24T20:14:45.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only brewed a couple malt extract batches using my built in induction cooktop. But I have to say that I love it and don't think I will ever switch to another method again. My cooktop has a 10&quot; 3400 watt burner and during a recent brew day I was honestly concerned that I was bringing my wort to a boil too fast. My concern was primarily that I wasn't steeping the grain long enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did do a lot of research regarding the pots and pans that I needed to be compatible with my cooktop before it was installed. You just need to make sure that your pans are induction ready. The premium brand is All-Clad but I have had no issues with my Cuisinart set. Though I actually used a different 12 qt stock pot that I bought years ago from Wal Mart. It has a triply &quot;disk&quot; attached to the bottom of the pot that makes it compatible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made three different batches during this recent brew day and from start to finish it took me about 4.5 hours using just the one pot and my induction cooktop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My cooktop is the Frigidaire FPCC3685KS. This cooktop gives me fantasitic control over the temp and certainly brought my wort to a boil very fast. I will probably be looking for a larger pot soon to make larger batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We got a fantastic deal buying this from a scrath and dent appliance retailer. Probably paid half or less than what the Frigidaire website lists as the MSRP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would strongly recommend using induction if you have the chance. I bet you will never go back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2346" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T20:14:45.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4577" CreationDate="2012-04-25T13:25:03.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making wine for over 10 years.  B-Brite is the only &quot;cleaner&quot; I use. (Can't call it a sanitizer anymore, the feds want all kinds of money and a paper trail). 1 tbl spoon in a gallon or so of hot water, swish it around items and rinse 2 or 3 times.  Never had a problem.  Also works great for taking labels off bottles if you leave the bottles in a bucket for awhile.  I usually leave it over nite, but in a pinch an hour is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2349" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T13:25:03.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4221" CreationDate="2012-04-25T18:06:31.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last few partial mash brews I have done I found that having 2 gallons of frozen water at the ready as well as an ice bath would chill the wort to pitching temp in less than 20-30 minutes. Just cut open the jugs of frozen water (distilled) and put them into the fermenting bucket while you chill the wort for 10-15 minutes in an ice bath. Poor the wort over the ice and top off with cold water accordingly. I use a swamp cooler to keep the fermenter at a reasonably constant temp in the AL summer. After I move the fermenter to the swamp cooler, I pitch the yeast. Easy as Sunday morning and no infections yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2352" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T18:06:31.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6885" CreationDate="2012-04-25T18:06:45.813" Score="5" ViewCount="949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing to keg for the first time, finally. I am planning to force carbonate and was wondering: Are there was any steps I need to take to stop any active yeast before putting it in the keg and gassing it up?  Is this even something I need to worry about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will have been fermenting about two weeks before going into the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2351" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T22:36:17.960" Title="Any need to stop yeast before kegging?" Tags="|yeast|carbonation|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6884" CreationDate="2012-04-25T18:19:49.137" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can just put it in the keg, no need to do anything with the yeast. After two weeks, a regular strength beer will have fermented out, so there's little CO2 going to be produced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if there were some CO2 produced, it takes time for the forced carbonation to enter solution, so any additional co2 from the yeast just contributes to the pressure in the headspace which is then topped up to your target psi by the co2 tank. Any co2 from the yeast simply means you use a fraction less co2 from the tank, but it's a small amount and not worth worrying about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stopping the yeast would not be good for the beer, since it's needed to condition and improve the beer. After two weeks, the beer is still pretty green - another couple of weeks with the small amount of yeast in suspension cleans up the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-25T22:36:17.960" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T22:36:17.960" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6887" CreationDate="2012-04-26T16:15:27.903" Score="4" ViewCount="5113" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a combination keg/carbonation/beer storage question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only fridge/freezer room for either a carboy or my (currently 1) keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have about half of the corny keg left of a light cream ale, and had to boot it out of my fridge to put in an IPA for a couple/3 week cycle. It was properly carbonated (seemed to work great at 11ish PSI) before I pulled it out and am keeping in a 75ish degree room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fun (and science!) I drew a glass off of it yesterday and it was all foam and then flat [tasting] beer under it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my questions, in &quot;teach a man to fish&quot; style (and assuming there are no leaks in my system, which I believe to be true):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) what is the phenomenon that changes how the carbonation level of the beer appears when it is at room temperature? In my mind, I think of a carbonated beer as having bubbles suspended in the liquid once the container is properly pressurized. i.e. a headspace of CO2 that is of sufficient pressure to keep the CO2 suspended in the beer. When dispensing, the pressure equalizes again to maintain that pressure. It's hard for me to visualize how the beer could come out &quot;flat&quot; looking if the pressure level of the system hasn't changed. Note, I turned off the CO2 when I took it into room temperature, as it seemed like the right thing to do(?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, at room temp CO2 expands I believe (?), but why exactly did that result in what I observed? I think if I understand that, I'll understand much more about the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Given #1, and knowing that the beer style matters as far as how it ages, what would you target as a general rule/deadline to get it cold again? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Given #1 and #2, should I purge the keg while it is warm and sitting until it's cold again? If so, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that's a mouthful (or 3), but I feel like I'll understand much more and be able to fish (and drink) if I get these concepts nailed down :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! (And as always, if you have articles or chapters of books you'd point to, I'd love those as well/alternately). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is brew #4, so surely I'll start to run out of questions soon...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2212" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T21:48:07.643" Title="How to properly keep a warm kegged beer (short term)" Tags="|carbonation|storage|keg|co2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6886" CreationDate="2012-04-26T17:36:42.610" Score="8" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;CO2 is less readily absorbed by warm liquids.  Therefore, CO2 in solution comes out of solution when you warm the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Whenever it works for you.  The warmer the beer is stored though, the sooner you should try to cool it back down.  Warmer storage promotes faster aging.  For me, the point where I want to start cooling it down again starts at about 80F.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No, don't purge unless you want to go through the carbonation process again when you cool it down.  As long as the keg remains sealed, the CO2 in the headspace will go back into solution when you cool it down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T17:36:42.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6889" CreationDate="2012-04-26T17:57:52.030" Score="5" ViewCount="2275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed 5L of mead (1 part honey to 3 parts water). After 9 months I can no longer see any sedimentation in the bottle, however when I taste the mead I can feel it's a little sparkling (besides that it tastes okay). Does it mean, that the mead is still immature or will the gas leave when I put the mead in room temperature? (it now stands in a cellar with temperature several centigrades below room temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what should I do? Wait a little more or is it safe to bottle the mead now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2356" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T17:09:18.967" Title="How to get rid of gas from mead?" Tags="|bottling|mead|co2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6888" CreationDate="2012-04-26T19:23:02.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd use a degasser, just like for wine.  Also works great to aerate beer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mzo39.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mix Stir degasser&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T19:23:02.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6886" CreationDate="2012-04-26T21:48:07.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several factors at play here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right that the CO2 will expand with increasing temperature, but since it's in the keg, a closed vessel, it can't expand, so pressure increases instead. Increased pressure increases solubility of CO2, but with increased temperature solubility of CO2 decreases, and unfortunately that change is more than the solubility increase by the increased pressure, so CO2 comes out of solution, reducing the carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also,  the increase in pressure is then what is causing all the foam, causing even more  CO2 to come out of solution when dispensed, making the beer taste flat. So , you're getting hit by a double whammy here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to hook up to the CO2 tank and chill the keg again, you can just go ahead and do that. Once the beer has chilled it will need a couple of days to reach equilibrium again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to continue serving at room temperature, you have a couple of choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;either, purge the keg, not entirely, but enough to reduce the pressure down to one that matches your dispensing line. This has the advantage of not needing a new beer line, but at the cost of slightly less carbonation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or, get a longer beer line, one that is balanced to the pressure now in the keg. This will avoid the need to purge, keeping as much carbonation in the beer as possible at that temperature and pressure, and reduce foaming since the line is balanced to the pressure. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out the current pressure in the keg, you can connect your regulator to the keg. Initially, have the regulator turned down low, and increase slowly - the point the CO2 starts to flow is then the pressure in the keg. From the co2 pressure, you can calculate the length of beer line required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beer-brewing.com/beer-brewing/beer_carbonation/principles_beer_carbonation.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Principles of Carbonation in Beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meheen-mfg.com/tankcarb.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dynamics of Tank Carbonation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2011/07/14/keg-line-length-balancing-the-science-of-draft-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Keg line length balancing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T21:48:07.643" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3790" CreationDate="2012-04-27T05:25:48.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With Ales I expect to see signs of yeast life within 12 hours (in a 5-6 gallon batch).  Pitching more yeast is an easy fix if no activity has begun at all.  Nottingham dried yeast, for example, will have your beer going in no time.  Nottingham has saved a few beers for me over the years and I always have it as a backup for the odd beer that doesn't seem to be taking off properly.  It doesn't matter if the strains are the same, as long as the fresh cells get the healthy yeast population up.  I have actually found that the most interesting results when this happens are when I can detect the character of both yeasts in the finished product.  There are many examples of yeast blends that create great tasting beer.  36 hours is a very long time for an average ale, so I would get something in there asap.  You might as well try to save it, but there is no time for starters anymore, go dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T05:25:48.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6893" CreationDate="2012-04-27T16:22:02.287" Score="2" ViewCount="996" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a counter-flow chiller put together and have used it a couple times. Needs some tweaks, but man it really chilled the wort!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I was done I ran some hot water through it and tried to drain it as best as I could. I was wondering what the best way to possibly store the chiller for a couple of weeks would be so I don't get any weird growth or something inside? Any thoughts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is blowing it out good enough? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I keep starsan in it and just cap the ends? Is that bad for the copper?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2266" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T17:00:49.617" Title="Storing a counter-flow chiller" Tags="|storage|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6892" CreationDate="2012-04-27T17:00:49.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do with a counter flow chiller is to make sure it is clean and drained completely before storage.  I will usually run boiling water through the chiller to clean but you can also use PBW as long as you rinse it with warm water.  Blowing it out with an air compressor will help drain the rest of the water.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You don't want to store it with cleaner of sanitizer as this can cause pitting or degradation of the metal whether it stainless steel or copper.&#xA;Back flushing or a thorough cleaning before the next use after storage on occasion will help maintain the cleanliness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T17:00:49.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6888" CreationDate="2012-04-27T17:09:18.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/wine-wand.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wine wand&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/mix-stir-stainless-steel.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mix/stir&lt;/a&gt; works well for degassing but you should be adding sulphites or campdem tablets before this process to absorb the oxygen and prevent oxidaton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another great way to degas is to use a pump.  Blichmann engineering has the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/winemaking/wine-equipment/wine-fermenting-equipment/blichmann-wineeasy/wineeasy-vacuum-degassing-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WineEasy vacuum degassing kit&lt;/a&gt; that works very well.  This is a much larger investment but will not introduce oxygen into the mead or wine you are degassing.  This product should only be used with glass carboys as plastic ones will crumple under the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T17:09:18.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6896" CreationDate="2012-04-27T17:33:38.890" Score="2" ViewCount="1983" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 10 gallon brew kettle with a ball valve. I have used it a couple times, and now own a counter-flow chiller. I noticed that all of the hot-break at the bottom of my kettle really seems to gunk up the ball valve and the speed of the draining. I mean it it still flows, but it does add some time to the draining. There are 2 things that I want to be able to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be able to add a dip tube of some sort. Right now I leave a sizable amount of liquid at the bottom of the kettle, since the ball valve is off the bottom just a tad ( which turns out to be a bit of liquid in a 10 gallon kettle)...what is the best way to go about this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, with the dip tube of some sort, is there a way to maybe strain some of the hot break out? I mean it feels like it would clog any mesh I try to put in its way. Any thoughts? Is it worth it? I'm not getting a stuck drain, just slowed I guess.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all of your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2266" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T16:08:03.403" Title="Brew kettle ball valve straining" Tags="|filtering|brewpot|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6895" CreationDate="2012-04-27T19:04:15.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get a false bottom with dip tube from any of the online home brew stores or your LHBS.  They're a little pricey ($30 - $100+), so I made one cheaply with stuff I had lying around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It consists of 1/2 inch threaded / female coupler, about 6 inch length of pipe, a 90 deg. elbow, and another 1-2 inch length of pipe.  This is the dip tube.  You don't need to solder it if you don't feel like it since any leaks just go back into the kettle.  For the false bottom I cut a hole in a folding steamer basket and slip it over the end of the dip tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It occurred to me to google after writing this and I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/2-dip-tube-285911/%20this&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.  I needed to add a small piece of pipe to the end of mine to reach the bottom of my kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always use at least some whole hops which helps catch the break material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brew kettle is a 15.5 converted keg.  You may need to adjust dimensions for your kettle.  Even if you have to buy all the parts for this it shouldn't cost more than $10 to put together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="738" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T19:04:15.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6898" CreationDate="2012-04-27T21:59:54.103" Score="5" ViewCount="802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got finished with my very first brew! It is a blonde that I made from a Mr. Beer kit. It smells and tastes good, but I was a bit worried because it also has sort of a champagne taste. Did I do something wrong to get this to happen, or do blondes just taste that way sometimes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2288" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T16:47:03.677" Title="My first brew tastes a bit like champage. Did I do something wrong?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6897" CreationDate="2012-04-27T22:28:30.520" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;champagne has lots of qualities that contribute to it's taste, so it could be many things, depending upon which part of the champagne taste you are detecting in your beer, but a few things jump to mind&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;excessive fizziness caused by over carbonation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yeast death - autolysis is usually present in small amounts in champagne, and this can occur in beer if it sits too long on the yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dry, thin body - this can be the result of a large amount of adjuncts, such as sugar, in the brew. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that the beer is overcarbonated - more fizzy than normal beer. If that's the case, then next time use less priming sugar, or, if you added to each bottle individually, add instead to a separate bucket first, and then rack the beer to that and then bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A distinctive flavour in champagne is that of yeast autolysis, it's usually in small amounts. You may pick up some of the same traits in beer if it's sitting too long on the yeast. How long is too long depends upon the strength of the beer and the quality of the yeast. For a regular strength beer, bottling after 2-3 weeks reduces the chance of autolysis.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not brewed with a Mr Beer kit, but some extract kits include instructions to add several pounds of sugar. This makes the final beer drier and thinner in body compared to a full malt beer. If you can get hold of a can of unhopped liquid malt extract, or dry malt extract, use that instead of the sugar to create a fuller body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-30T16:47:03.677" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T16:47:03.677" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-27T23:12:07.447" Score="3" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a 2L starter with 2 Wyeast 1056 smack packs, yeast nutrient, a shot of O2 at the beginning and intermittent shaking. Last night it was going strong and this morning it had a nice high krausen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I went to work and came home to find that it went nuts. It wasn't much, but there was a nice little puddle of yeast next to the flask. &#xA;I've learned my lesson to use larger than a 2L flask for a 2L starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I lose too much yeast? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not brewing until tomorrow morning so will there be enough reproduction of yeast cells by then to replace the lost yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, should I just not worry and pitch it like planned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2021" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-07-11T08:40:09.403" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T03:53:09.973" Title="Yeast Starter blew out!" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6899" CreationDate="2012-04-28T00:00:46.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your starter was not exposed to contamination i think you are good just pitching as planed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2170" LastActivityDate="2012-04-28T00:00:46.070" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6899" CreationDate="2012-04-28T22:08:36.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two packs in 2L was probably overkill save yourself a pack and put one in 2L next time.&#xA;The active blowoff helps keeps things from falling into the starter once it gets going, much like an open fermentor does as well.  The dropping pH of the starter helps keep things bacteria-static as well.  Bacteria might get in there but they won't multiply much in that environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-04-28T22:08:36.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6895" CreationDate="2012-04-29T23:12:42.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative to using a false bottom is to use a hopback, such as the blichmann hoprocket. This increases the hop aroma as well as filtering out hot break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to stir the wort just after flamout for 10 minutes, this creates a whirlpool, which should cause most of the hot break and hop material to collect in the center of the kettle, away from your faucet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T23:12:42.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6906" CreationDate="2012-04-30T01:49:24.920" Score="2" ViewCount="746" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got back into brewing after a 5 year hiatus, and noticed that my StarSan is a little darker in color than the stuff they sell at the LHBS. The guy at the LHBS said it can lose its potency, but should be fine. I used a little bit more than I would have (not much) if it was fresh, and everything seemed normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody here had to store StarSan for a long period of time (2-5 years)? And if so, how did it work out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2360" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T06:35:42.813" Title="How long can you store StarSan in its concentrated form?" Tags="|starsan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6822" CreationDate="2012-04-30T03:22:01.220" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not just put some cloves in your wort and save yourself a lot of messing about? You add hops for a hop flavour, add cloves for a clove flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2361" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T03:22:01.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6910" CreationDate="2012-04-30T04:00:01.720" Score="5" ViewCount="6092" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of many different methods of chilling wort, &#xA;What is the fastest? &#xA;And what's the best cost vs speed solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1307" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T19:46:47.033" Title="Fastest method of wort chilling" Tags="|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-06T21:08:03.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6903" CreationDate="2012-04-30T06:35:42.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still using the same 32oz bottle that I bought four and a half years ago with no problems. To check for potency of the made-up solution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ensure that the pH is below 3.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check that there is still some foaming when shaken&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T06:35:42.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6905" CreationDate="2012-04-30T10:57:04.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding liquid helium to the kettle would probably be pretty fast, but not exactly practical. For home use I guess a beefy plate chiller would be the fastest alternative, but those can be expensive. A basic stainless steel or copper immersion chiller can be very reasonable and will chill your wort plenty fast. As long as you reach pitching temperature within 20-30 minutes you are more than good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastEditorUserId="268" LastEditDate="2012-04-30T11:11:07.587" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T11:11:07.587" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-06T21:08:03.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6909" CreationDate="2012-04-30T11:45:49.217" Score="8" ViewCount="1141" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the anti-microbial affects of hops affect yeast activity and therefore attenuation when dry hopping near the end of primary fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T12:51:16.047" Title="Does dry hopping affect attenuation?" Tags="|yeast|dry-hop|attenuation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6908" CreationDate="2012-04-30T13:54:08.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Haven't seen any scientific stuidies on the topic, but I'd be very surprised if this was the case. For one thing, I don't know that hops affect yeast activity. Secondly, by the end of primary you've got a large, healthy colony of yeast. Adding an ounce or two of hops shouldn't make any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to think about waiting until fermentation is complete before dry hopping. Not because of anti-microbial properties of hops, but because the escaping CO2 will drive off some of the hop aroma that you're hoping to provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2012-05-02T03:19:25.783" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T03:19:25.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6905" CreationDate="2012-04-30T15:37:58.453" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plate chillers are generally regarded as being the most efficient, and so typically require less water for the same amount of cooling compared to counter flow and immersion chillers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The largest plate chillers from dudadiesel can chill a 10 gallon batch in &lt;strong&gt;15 seconds&lt;/strong&gt; according to their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dudadiesel.com/files/beerwortchart.pdf&quot;&gt;figures&lt;/a&gt;, but these cost over a grand, and they are using flowrates not easily achievable at home. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=b3-23a&quot;&gt;smaller&lt;/a&gt;, more reasonably priced chillers (around $100) can do the job in 5-8 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dudadiesel.com/files/beerwortchart.pdf&quot;&gt;Beer wort chilling by chiller model - Dudadiesel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-04-30T21:09:43.987" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T21:09:43.987" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-06T21:08:03.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6908" CreationDate="2012-04-30T20:56:47.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cases dry hopping is or can be done after primary fermentation.  So the beer is already fully attenuated prior to dry hops being added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said I have added dry hops 3 days into an active ferment and still hit what I predicted to be my target FG.  Furthermore, my calculated attenuation has always been as predicted when adding dry hops prior to the end of active fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T20:56:47.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6905" CreationDate="2012-04-30T22:23:32.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dump it on a large/flat/cold surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since evaporation is the quickest way to cool such a liquid, and maximizing surface area maximizes evaporation, this is the optimal answer I can come up with.  Given enough cold area, this should chill the liquid in much less than a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost would depend on many factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for price vs speed:&#xA;The cheapest would be to not do anything with it.  Just allow thermodynamics slowly bring it to equilibrium with it's environment.  This is actually what I would do since it's the cheapest, simplest, and laziest solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2196" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T22:23:32.043" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-06T21:08:03.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-01T02:11:11.587" Score="2" ViewCount="873" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making a starter, the intent is to make yeast. We use stirplates in part to continually oxidize the wort, enabling the yeast to multiply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this question &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6283/is-oxidation-of-yeast-starters-a-concern&quot;&gt;about starter oxidation&lt;/a&gt;, one of the answers talks about lag transitioning to fermentation and quotes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fermentation_%28biochemistry%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fermentation&lt;/a&gt; (Wikipedia) says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;even in the presence of abundant oxygen, yeast cells&#xA;  greatly prefer fermentation to oxidative phosphorylation, as long as&#xA;  sugars are readily available for consumption (a phenomenon known as&#xA;  the Crabtree effect)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which makes me wonder, &quot;what really causes/encourages yeast to multiply?&quot;. If there's plenty of oxygen and sugar, why doesn't yeast just keep multiplying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2121" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T15:58:54.473" Title="What differentiates the lag phase from fermentation?" Tags="|yeast|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2012-05-01T13:18:00.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are professional additives that are used in labs to keep mold from growing in water baths and humidity pans inside incubators. Do you know anyone who works in a lab? Can you find a lab supply store in your area (there is almost always one to supply schools and child care facilities with science equipment). I don't know what the chemical is, I'll try to figure it out next time I see a bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bleach will work to reduce growth in the water, but it will not &quot;combat&quot; the mold that has already grown. You'll need to scrub and sanitize any areas where you can visually see mold, otherwise it will simply grow back in the same area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T13:18:00.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6913" CreationDate="2012-05-01T14:26:09.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is brought on by bad information of another post.  The 'Crabtree effect' essentially states that yeast in high sugar will choose to undergo fermentation rather than aerobic respiration (using O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; to respire).  However, this does not mean that they aren't using O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. On the contrary the yeast are actively dividing and use the O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; to make sterols which are used in membrane components, without which they couldn't survive. This greatly surprised me when I learned it as it goes against a lot of how mammalian cells work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why the Crabtree effect is advantageous for yeast I don't really have a good answer for that. But I think what you have to do is think about a yeast in the environment surrounded by a bunch of other organisms who want to eat the same food source. So what do you do? Slash and burn baby, which is essentially what the yeast does. They sacrifice optimal metabolism for optimal growth. If they use O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; for respiration there is less for sterol production and therefore growth. Note that after the sugar levels reach a certain point they switch back to aerobic respiration and actually clean-up some of the byproducts of their slash and burn strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T14:26:09.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6913" CreationDate="2012-05-01T15:02:25.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast want to multiply, that's their preferred activity. Given an optimal environment, the yeast will continue to propagate. The same is true for other microorganisms, like bacteria - given ideal conditions they would have taken over the world countless times over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is sufficient resources and ideal conditions - something that is rare or short-lived in practice. The yeast alter the rate of propagation as dictated by the state of the environment, such as insufficient O2, amino acids, or other of raw materials needed to build new cells. As resources are used up, propagation rate decreases.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Which makes me wonder, &quot;what really causes/encourages yeast to&#xA;  multiply?&quot;. If there's plenty of oxygen and sugar, why doesn't yeast&#xA;  just keep multiplying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast need more than oxygen and sugar to make new cells, but if the environment continues to provide favorable conditions and the resources needed, then the yeast will continue to propagate. But this is purely academic - in practice resources are limited and propagation must slow down eventually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-05-01T15:58:54.473" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T15:58:54.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6895" CreationDate="2012-05-01T16:08:03.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second mdma's whirlpool recommendation.  Get a good strong whirlpool going after flameout, then wait until it settles thoroughly before opening the valve.  The majority of the solids will settle into a cone in the center of the kettle, away from the spigot.  You'll still want to keep an eye on it and shut off the flow once the level gets low enough that larger amounts of solids are starting to be sucked out through the spigot, but this should go a very long way towards preventing a lot of gunk in the valve and (much worse!) inside the counterflow chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2366" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T16:08:03.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6905" CreationDate="2012-05-01T17:27:04.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I gravity feed a Therminator chiller from my boil kettle.  With my faucet turned on halfway, I get 65 degree wort from boiling with one pass.  It takes about 5 minutes to drain 5 gallons into my carboy.  I don't think you can reasonably ask for better than that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Therminators retail for around $200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T17:27:04.620" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-06T21:08:03.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6905" CreationDate="2012-05-01T19:04:33.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried a DudaDiesel plate chiller and was totally unsuccessful.  Went back to a large copper immersion chiller.  I frequently chill 9-10 gallon batches in about 18 minutes.  And I use virtually all of the excess water to clean my 3 15 gallon kettles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI - I have a barely used plate chiller that I will sell cheap!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2367" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T19:04:33.233" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-06T21:08:03.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6905" CreationDate="2012-05-01T19:46:47.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to what Jeremy said, I use the smaller Shirron plate chiller, which is about half the thickness and half the price of the Blichmann Therminator, and it also works fabulously.  I generally have the water on full, so I'm probably using twice as much water for the same results, but otherwise my speed and temperature numbers correspond to what Jeremy reports.  It's an excellent investment, will save you a lot of time, and it's not all that much more expensive than many immersion chillers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if saving money is your top concern, depending on the size of your boil kettle, you may be able to set the whole thing into a utility sink or large tub filled with ice water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2366" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T19:46:47.033" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-06T21:08:03.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6928" CreationDate="2012-05-02T03:30:40.627" Score="12" ViewCount="6187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a SMaSH beer (Baird Maris Otter and EKG) finishing in primary. It's been fermenting for just over a week. Starting Gravity was 1.046. I mashed at 154F for 60 minutes. Fermented with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=141&quot;&gt;WY1335 British Ale II&lt;/a&gt;. I didn't make a starter, since the yeast was very fresh, ~95% viability. I oxygenated with pure O2 for 90 seconds. High krausen was observed at 36 hours, and fermentation was vigorous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1335 is described as medium attenuation, high flocculation. I expected the beer to have started clearing by now, but it's still very cloudy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled a sample with a wine thief and measured the SG, and took a swig. It tastes very slightly sweet. If I had to guess, I would say 1.012. However, the hydrometer was reading over 1.020 even after de-gassing the sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've drunk a lot of hydrometer samples, and I can't believe that this beer really has so much residual sugar -- it just tastes too dry. Is there anything that could be affecting the hydrometer reading? I wouldn't think that suspended yeast would affect SG, since it's not in solution and therefore not affecting the density of the liquid. Am I wrong? Is there something else that could contribute to an anomalously high gravity reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2017-11-04T15:46:17.623" Title="Does suspended yeast contribute to high SG?" Tags="|yeast|all-grain|specific-gravity|attenuation|smash|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2012-05-02T08:12:37.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not calibrate your hydrometer and take another reading?. If you're worried about suspended yeast, chill it and decant off and take a reading?. I don't think yeast contribute to gravity so much that it would throw your hydrometer off - different temperatures or uncalibrated hydrometer maybe. I'd give it two weeks and have a homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T08:12:37.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6908" CreationDate="2012-05-02T12:51:16.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the anti-microbial properties of hops do NOT affect yeast fermentation at all. Think of all the Double IPA's out there with IBU's in the 80's and higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I knew a homebrew shop employee who made a double IPA that had 300 IBUs, including with a ton of late additions and dry hopping (it looked slightly green in the serving line) and it fermented out like a perfectly normal DIPA would when pitched with a standard packet of US-05. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops block the activity of Lactobacillus bacteria to some degree, which is probably why they took over the beer-bittering business from the standard gruit mixtures a few hundred years back. Hops do not block Pediococus or Brettanomysees activity however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T12:51:16.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2012-05-02T14:28:57.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;SG only measures the density of a solution relative to the density of pure water. It does not necessarily indicate dissolved sugars per se. So suspended particles as well as non-fermentable compounds (ie, maltodextrin, proteins, etc) contribute to SG without contributing to sweetness. This would include yeast, protein and anything else suspended within the liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The haze in your brew suggests residual yeast and/or protein which are likely contributing to your gravity readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: Think of it this way, the simplest way to measure SG would be to take a very precise volume of the solution (say, 10 mL) and then measure it's mass very accurately. This will allow you to calculate density and compare to the density of pure water to determine SG. Anything within that sample--dissolved solids, particles in suspension and anything else--will contribute to the mass and increase the resultant SG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastEditorUserId="2126" LastEditDate="2012-05-02T14:34:47.273" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T14:34:47.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2012-05-02T15:06:10.620" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dissolved&lt;/em&gt; solids, such as sugars, increase the SG since they increase the mass of the solution without any significant volume increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Suspended&lt;/em&gt; solids, like yeast, may increase or decrease the SG depending upon the relative density of the solids compared to the density of the liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case with the yeast, we know that yeast settles out eventually, so it's more dense than the beer, and so it increases the SG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CO2 bubbles can also affect the hydrometer reading, causing it to float higher than usual, and reading a higher SG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get an accurate SG reading, it's best to start with a clear sample, or wait until the suspended solids have sunk to the bottom of the sample, and then spin the hydrometer so that any bubbles underneath are dissipated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-05-02T18:07:06.033" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T18:07:06.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2012-05-02T21:06:26.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first defense for me is the spray bottle but frankly the only times I've had boil-overs is when I'm not paying attention. So, first on my list of boil over remedies is paying attention as the boil nears 212f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mark&#xA;Beer Diary... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2370" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T22:45:40.363" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T22:45:40.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2012-05-03T01:55:43.237" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A non dissolvable solid like yeast in a liquid does not increase specific gravity. Its like dropping stones in to a water, the water still has the same density as it did before as the stones (and yeast in your example) are two separate phases.  The solids simply displace the liquid but do not become a &quot;part&quot; of it, as in the example of salts or sugars or dissolved proteins.  A dissolved substance becomes a homogenous part of the liquid system.  The liquid is no longer just water its a % sugar solution... the two have become one.&#xA;Even if the yeast are in suspension they are not dissolved in the liquid.  They exist as two separate phases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dissolved CO2 in the beer may nucleate on the sides of the hydrometer and sort of suspended in higher than it should be.  A couple quick spins in the testing tube usually helps.&#xA;Be sure you are at the correct temp for the hydrometer (usually 60F).&#xA;Lastly, your reading may be off due to dissolved protein or starch.  These things will contribute to the gravity, but would not register on your palate as sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T01:55:43.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2012-05-03T19:36:41.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I agree BrotherLogic. It never hurts to calibrate your hydrometer every now and then. Even glass tube thermometers can require calibration over the years. Get a sample of pure water and do whatever you have to, to have the sample as close to the calibrated temperature listed on your hydrometer (usually 15C). It should read 1.000 (0.009 - 1.001). Don't forget when your sampling your beer to use a correction factor if the temp is not 15C. I've seen hydrometers out by a couple points. If the hydrometer was off by a few points, and you mis-measured your samples temperature by a few degrees, the numbers can become much closer together then you expected. If nothing else, calibration will give you piece of mind that your hydrometer is working properly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T19:36:41.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6937" CreationDate="2012-05-04T04:30:26.703" Score="3" ViewCount="777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed an oatmeal stout and bottled it about 2 months ago. Most of the batch was drank within a few weeks of bottling. Tonight I opened the last bottle. This pour had significantly better head retention then the rest of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does head retention improve with age? I know the typical factors are clean glassware, no mustache wax, etc. But all things seem equal, except it sat for a good month longer than the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2101" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T12:56:24.117" Title="Head Retention improves with bottle conditioning?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|head-retention|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6930" CreationDate="2012-05-04T04:58:40.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A possibility it's that you got more carbonation with time, some times with temperatu thus your improve head formation and retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2170" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T04:58:40.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6962" CreationDate="2012-05-04T09:07:26.350" Score="5" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MULTI-FUNCTIONAL-DIGITAL-PROBE-THERMOMETER-Food-Catering-/390412639197?pt=UK_Kitchen_Accessories&amp;amp;hash=item5ae6681bdd#ht_1763wt_1163&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;digital thermometer with a probe&lt;/a&gt;. The probe is stainless steel but the cable and probe housing are apparently made of PVC. In my last brew I just submerged the whole probe in the boiler before the grain steep and left it there until I had cooled the wort. It was a 75m boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's occurred to me now that this was a really stupid idea. The thermometer still seems to be working ok but I'm worried that chemicals will have leached into the beer. Should I throw the beer out or drink it? I can't really find any useful info on whether PVC is toxic under those circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE ON THIS&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Thanks very much for your answers. In the end I opted to throw out this batch. I expect it would have been perfectly fine but I don't want to be sitting there with cancer in twenty years wondering about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2113" LastEditorDisplayName="user2113" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T13:51:25.193" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T13:51:25.193" Title="I boiled my PVC thermometer probe - health concerns?" Tags="|equipment|boil|extract-plus-grains|food-safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6936" CreationDate="2012-05-04T10:29:31.577" Score="1" ViewCount="6320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard anecdotal accounts of people adding extra sugar (more than the recommended amounts) to their secondary fermentation when brewing dark ales such as stouts and porters. Apparently this can be even better if brown sugar is used. I have heard that some added up to 1Kg extra!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have people tried this? How much can be considered the 'right' amount to add?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2369" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T05:42:34.410" Title="Does adding extra sugar to dark ales (e.g. stouts) better their flavour?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|taste|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6933" CreationDate="2012-05-04T14:01:04.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sugar adds alcohol and lowers body. Small amounts of table sugar won't affect flavor much, but large amounts can yield a taste that's described as &quot;cidery&quot;. Brown sugar will add some small amount of flavor, but not as much as you might expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like your dark ales light bodied and high alcohol, go ahead and add some sugar. It's not, as far as I know, traditional for any dark ales to be brewed with sugar. Myself, I add table sugar to my Belgian tripel and saison beers, but nothing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guideline is usually to have sugar contribute no more than 20% of fermentables. For example, if the starting graviy of your beer is 1.080, no more than 16 points of gravity should come from sugar. Sugar provides 46 points per pound per gallon. So for 5 gallons, that works out to about 1.7 pounds of sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T14:01:04.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6930" CreationDate="2012-05-04T16:00:27.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;More time gives the the CO2 more chance to go into solution in the beer and give you better foam formation and more even carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T16:00:27.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6933" CreationDate="2012-05-05T12:52:36.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think its a function of whether one likes the flavors it contributes.  Its pretty subjective person to person.  I for one think my dark ales are fine without the need of sugars.  Using things like brown sugar, maple syrup, honey or molasses can add a different dimension.  But straight up sugar really doesn't do anything for the beer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If your fermentation practices are spot on simple table sugars come out basically flavorless, as they are nearly 100% fermentable under the right conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding sugar to the secondary might be asking for trouble as well.  If your yeast have already pooped out or the alcohol level is fairly strong (&gt;8%) then the sugar might not ferment out enough and that will leave the beer sweeter than it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a right answer to this question though. Try it with a side by side and decide for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2012-05-05T14:07:57.367" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T14:07:57.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6930" CreationDate="2012-05-05T12:56:24.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bigger factor is likely nucleation sites and suspended particles in the beer.  As the beer sets and conditions there are fine particulates in the beer that settle out with the yeast.  The more of these super fine particles that are in suspension the more the CO2 gets knocks out as you pour it into the glass.&#xA;When they are settles out to the bottom of the bottle and you separate the main beer from this as you pour.  Leaving more CO2 in the beer in the glass then helps sustain the formation of head.  This, IMO, gives the impression of head retention but its actually a function of the ability of the beer to continue to create head with fresh bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T12:56:24.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6939" CreationDate="2012-05-06T00:38:51.417" Score="1" ViewCount="1812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a batch on last Sunday, started off with a crazy high reading on the hydrometer (around 1080 when I was expecting 1040ish according to the kit) - though I suspect that was because I drew a sample through the tap and got all the heavy stuff from the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, it's been a cold week and I've been trying to keep the sucker warm, but it's been down around 18-20 quite often — there haven't really been any indicators of fermentation but I have taken daily measurements and after getting around 1050 on the first day I seem to be getting around 1040 today - the taste has also mellowed over the week leading to me to believe something was going on ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the feeling my fermenter doesn't have a great seal, and yesterday after a cold night I gave it a swirl after getting the room warm and I suspect I might have ended up with some bad guys in there, today the sample was slightly fizzy and there's a hint of a sour taste starting to come in. Should I just ditch it now and start with a lager better suited to the current temperature, or can it be rescued?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2372" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T16:33:42.870" LastActivityDate="2016-11-06T07:12:39.167" Title="Slight fizz in beer after 6 days in the fermenter - game over?" Tags="|fermentation|beer|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6938" CreationDate="2012-05-06T01:21:01.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first suggestion would be to stop taking daily measurements.  I usually do my first check at 7 days just to see how things are going, then leave it be for another week or two before I molest it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;18-20C is just fine for for ale ferments.  By my calculations, that's 64.4-68F, which is where I ferment all of my ales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the sour flavor, I wouldn't worry about it after 6 days.  You can get some very odd flavors in the various stages of fermentation.  You also don't need a hermetic seal for primary fermentation.  I've used plastic cling wrap or aluminum foil in lieu of an airlock several times in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short, my advice is to let the yeast do its job and clean up after itself.  Give it another week, check the gravity again to see if it's progressing, then give it another week or two before testing again.  You might be pleasantly surprised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-05-06T01:21:01.410" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6949" CreationDate="2012-05-06T22:54:24.930" Score="1" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to make a tripel with OG near 1.085. I need to make a strong starter before subjecting yeast to that kind of gravity. I have read that 1.040 is a good gravity for making a starter. So I have the following plan in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cook a 1-gallon first wort with an OG of 1.040. Pitch one Wyeast activator pack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After 24-36 hours, cook 2 more gallons of wort, cool, and add to the first gallon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After another 24-36 hours, cook, cool and add the rest of the wort to a total of 5.5 gallons, with all the remaining fermentables to bring the estimated OG to 1.085 (that's a 1.085 if all fermentables had gone into all 5.5 gallons from the start.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is at stage 2. Regardless of whatever else might be wrong with this plan, should I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be adding 2 gallons of 1.040 wort, being consistent with the 1.040 ideal for starters? Or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;since I am about to add it to one gallon that has already underwent some fermentation, should I add something more like 2 gallons at 1.050? That will then average out to 3 gallons at 1.040, but with some alcohol content already present?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which choice leaves me with a healthier yeast count for stage 3? (And if my numbers are off - say I should be staring with stage 1 at only 0.5 gallon instead of 1 - I'd still like to know if in principle I should be factoring out the gravity that has already been fermented away.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if there is anything else wrong with this plan, don't hesitate to let me know :) The  fermentables are:&#xA;11 lb extra light LME,&#xA;1 lb specialty grains,&#xA;1 lb liquid candi sugar,&#xA;and 0.5 lb maple sugar,&#xA;brought up to 5.5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-05-08T08:30:48.220" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T08:30:48.220" Title="Should I factor out sugar-to-alcohol conversion in stage 2 of a three-wort batch?" Tags="|yeast-starters|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2012-05-06T23:40:10.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just pick the pot up off the stove if a boil-over seems imminent. Gas or electric, that immediately stops any boil. If you're not in the vicinity to notice a pending boil-over, then I don't know what you can do beyond buying a bigger pot or using FermCap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2012-05-06T23:40:10.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4221" CreationDate="2012-05-07T00:15:45.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are brewing from extract, and you have say, 3 gallons of wort that you are eventually bringing to 5.5 gallons, then you can get a fast cool-down without a chiller to 67F by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ice bath in the sink until you get down to 90F. If you can keep the wort moving in the pot and the ice water moving around in the sink (by shaking and swirling), this could take as little as 15 minutes. It's important to keep both liquids moving, so to always have the hottest wort and the coldest water on opposite sides of your brew pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour in 2.5 gallons of pre-chilled water. The water I keep in my fridge is usually around 40F for this when I use it. (I know its temp because I keep it in a cleaned, sterilized, and solid-bung-plugged carboy with a strip thermometer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific heat of wort is about 0.95. But the specific gravity of your wort is let's say 1.05. The combined influence of the specific heat and specific gravity of wort makes it just about equivalent to water for temperature flux with respect to volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In simple terms, in the above scenario, you can average the water and wort temperatures according to this simple weighted formula to get a combined temperature of &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2.5 * 40F + 3 * 90F) / 5.5 = 67F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's important to do the steps in this order, since the ice bath is much less efficient at pulling out heat from a large volume of cooler wort than a small volume of hot wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T00:15:45.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6944" CreationDate="2012-05-07T00:20:44.853" Score="10" ViewCount="6987" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just starting out with homebrewing. I've ordered a starter set and am digging into some books. My primary concern right now is safety -- I don't want to accidentally make my friends and family sick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any ways to test for health safety, or any dead giveaways that something is wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2028" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-05-07T19:43:33.083" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T02:14:04.620" Title="How do I know if my beer is safe to drink?" Tags="|food-safety|safety|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6943" CreationDate="2012-05-07T00:38:35.393" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;If home brew goes bad, then you can taste it. Even then, it still won't make you sick. It just tastes bad. All the warnings about maintaining good sanitation are just to keep your beer tasting good - not to prevent disease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you could get sick if you didn't rinse out any cleaning chemicals that you used. And if you were &lt;em&gt;distilling&lt;/em&gt;, then you could get sick if you concentrated all the methanol in one place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, relax, have a home brew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T00:38:35.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6946" CreationDate="2012-05-07T05:22:32.253" Score="4" ViewCount="3299" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are actually 2 questions here. The first one is more of an opinion (although I would like to know), but the correct answer will only be awarded for the second question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been researching online to find out what the best way is to clean and sanitise your equipment. From what I have gathered so far, I was going to use Oxiclean to clean my equipment, and Hydrogen Peroxide to sanitise it. These both seem to work well, are no rinse solutions, and are pretty cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first question is, are these good choices for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second question is, what amount of these should I dilute them  with, and how long do I soak my things for in order to ensure they are properly clean? Should I just use warm water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2288" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-05-08T02:31:26.063" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T19:04:50.647" Title="What amounts and times should I use to clean/sterilize my brewing equipment?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|sanitizer|oxiclean|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6945" CreationDate="2012-05-07T09:52:05.737" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxiclean is a fine cleaner, requiring just a few minutes contact to clean, depending upon how soiled the equipment is. As it's decomposition includes hydrogen peroxide, it can also be used as a sanitizer in sufficient dosage. Hydrogen peroxide is a great sanitizer, but there are some drawbacks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's corrosive to metals, since the peroxide increases the amount of oxygen in contact with the metal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it requires full contact, so requires a full carboy of solution to sanitize a carboy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;requires at least 5 minutes contact time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pure hydrogen peroxide requires no rinsing, but cleaners or sanitizers that contain compounds that break down to hydrogen peroxide (such as Oxiclean) do usually require rinsing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cannot be reused - once made up into solution, the active ingredients break down to release oxygen. After a couple of hours, the solution has lost it's effectiveness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sanitation duties, you may want to consider StarSan instead. Here's how it stacks up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;also corrosive to metals, but less so than peroxide. I've left a plate chiller in starsan for weeks with no harm done. Not recommended for storage in kegs, since pitting can occur at the liquid-air boundary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;doesn't require full contact. a small amount in the bottom of the carboy swirled around to cover all of the inside surfaces is sufficient. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;contact time is 30 seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no rinse required&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can be reused. stored in an air-tight container starsan can last for many months. I throw out usually because it gets too dirty, rather than that it's lost it's effectiveness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, starsan is simply hassle free and much easier to use than hydrogen percarbonate or chlorine based sanitizers. Another good sanitizer is iodophor, although this requires full contact, and so not as convenient as starsan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Cleaning_and_Sanitation&quot;&gt;cleaning and sanitation&lt;/a&gt;, HBT wiki&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-05-07T10:38:35.227" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T10:38:35.227" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6943" CreationDate="2012-05-07T10:43:38.027" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your beer has alcohol in it, it is pretty much guaranteed to be safe to drink. Lots of live yeast in the beer can give you gas, and acetaldehyde can worsen hangovers, but other than that you're safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T10:43:38.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6943" CreationDate="2012-05-07T11:47:32.390" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In ancient times brewing was used to make dirty water safe to drink.  So relax and as long as it smells and tastes OK everything is fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T11:47:32.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6940" CreationDate="2012-05-07T13:19:19.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd need to check the Mr Malty pitching calculator to be sure, but I think you are going way overboard with the starter. For a 1.085 Belgian ale that started off in a smack-pack, I'd make about a half gallon starter of 1.040 gravity and call it a day. I've made a similar Belgian in the past, and did a 1qt starter stepped up with another 2 quarts, and it was waaay more than enough yeast (had a blowoff, it got down to very, very low FG, etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T13:19:19.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6945" CreationDate="2012-05-07T15:54:38.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I was taught, cleaners are used for anything visible, such as hop material at the top of a carboy or a tube filled with gunk, and sanitizer is for everything contacting your beer that you CAN'T see. Using a good sanitizer will reduce the population of bacteria on equipment surfaces to as low as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't comment on oxiclean (which would be more akin to PBW), but generally soaking things in PBW will remove/loosen most things within a few hours or certainly overnight.  Once it looks clean to the eye, a sanitizer will do the rest.  I definitely recommend StarSan.  It foams so you know it's working, doesn't discolor plastics, and just a minute or so of contact and you're good to go.  It's also great to put in a spray bottle to check keg leaks and prevent boilovers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PBW + StarSan is a great combo!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2380" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T15:54:38.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6940" CreationDate="2012-05-07T16:26:28.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stepwise additions you're making to keep the gravity lower is often done with high gravity brewing. It relieves the yeast from the osmotic stresses of the high gravity wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 stages is probably overkill here. If you want to call the first stage of the brew a starter, that's fine, although you could start with the whole 5.5 gallons at 1.045 and that would be equally fine and cut out a step. When that has fermented down to 1.015 you can add the rest of the sugars and let it ferment out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go with 3 stage, then there's no need to try to balance the second addition so that the overall wort hits 1.040. By that point the yeast have propagated to sufficient numbers and acclimatized to the wort. I would wait longer though, 36 hours is probably not long enough. To be sure, take a gravity sample, and start the next stage when the gravity is around 1.015-1.018. This ensures the yeast are still busy fermenting while keeping the gravity reached after the addition low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever schedule you go for, try to make up your first addition so that it includes all the different sugar types in roughly the same proportion as found in the complete recipe. This helps the yeast keep open the metabolic pathways for the different types of sugar, which will give the highest attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T16:26:28.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6955" CreationDate="2012-05-08T15:17:05.793" Score="4" ViewCount="1367" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason not to simply lower a hydrometer into my carboy during secondary fermentation, so that I can monitor gravity just by peeking in with a flashlight? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about doing this with a recent tripel batch, so I don't have to disturb it multiple times by taking readings. I'll take precautions like sterilizing the hydrometer. I also think I will tie something like dental floss (sterilized) to it so that I can gently lower it in, drape the loose end over the lip wedged between the lip and the bung, and remove it safely later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll sit there like an iceberg poking its head out, and I can act early if I start to feel like fermentation has stuck. Keep in mind this a beer I would like to leave in the secondary for 3-6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems like a good idea to me, but I have lots of &quot;good&quot; ideas that turn out bad. Is there any reason you would not do something like this (either from experience or imagination)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T00:44:51.697" Title="Any reason not to lower a hydrometer into my secondary?" Tags="|secondary|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6952" CreationDate="2012-05-08T16:29:06.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The krausen is going to get all over it and potentially make the scale difficult to read if it cakes up in the wrong spot. The churning from active fermentation could also complicate reading a measurement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T16:29:06.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6952" CreationDate="2012-05-08T19:40:49.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is secondary your gravity shouldn't be changing much. Unless you're moving to secondary during active fermentation, your beer should be at final gravity when you move it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're adding fermentables to your secondary, I can't think of a reason to track gravity. And if you are adding fermentables, then you might have some kreusen. And that kreusen would stick to the hydrometer and throw it out of calibration, giving you faulty readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you could do this, but I'm not sure what it gets you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T19:40:49.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6961" CreationDate="2012-05-09T00:39:55.353" Score="4" ViewCount="2219" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, a little under a week ago, I brewed a goodly sized stout (1.069 OG) and when I mashed it I ended up missing my mash temp by about 4 degrees. (I was aiming for 158 and ended up with about 162-163.) I kept stirring with the lid of my cooler open to get the temperature down to 158, but this took about 10-15 minutes. I then mashed for a full 60 minutes and ended up hitting my gravity right on the nose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pitched a 1L starter of US-05 into it, and had a quick, active fermentation for 4 days (at about 62-66 degree range), and now the airlock is not moving anymore. This is when I usually start taking my gravity readings, and today I took one but it's only down to 1.030, but I'm expecting to get down to about 1.019. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did mashing at such a high temperature &quot;break&quot; the extraction and I'm down as far as it will go? Seems strange that it did since I hit my numbers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to RDWHAHB and let it sit for another week or two, but I'm just curious as to what might be going on here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2360" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T23:21:18.653" Title="Is this a stuck fermentation or did I screw up the mash?" Tags="|fermentation|mash|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6952" CreationDate="2012-05-09T00:44:51.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the trick:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get yourself a plastic beer/wine thief and sanitize it along with your hydrometer.  Do the thief motion by moving it up and down to fill the reservoir and drop the hydrometer right down in there.  You'll get nice clean beer from the bottom and don't need to worry about losing the hydrometer. When finished, just touch the end of the thief on the side of your fermenter and the beer will drain right back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought mine from the local homebrew store and made sure it was large enough to fit standard hydrometers.  Like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00186ADYS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Fermtech-Wine-Beer-Thief/dp/tech-data/B00186ADYS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2380" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T00:44:51.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6959" CreationDate="2012-05-09T03:32:29.523" Score="2" ViewCount="382" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time has slipped and I have a brew that needs to be tapped on Saturday. It was in primary for 10 days, and has been in secondary for about 3 weeks now. This will be my first time kegging. If I am going to force carbonate, do I still need to prime when I put it in the keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2293" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T03:55:27.200" Title="Do I have to prime if I'm force carbonating?" Tags="|kegging|priming|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6958" CreationDate="2012-05-09T03:55:27.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, if your beer is ready to drink, you can go ahead and hook up your gas and then start force-carbing. You can let it sit for a few days at carbing pressure or you can give it a kick start by hooking your gas line up to your OUT port on your keg and gently rolling it back and forth on your lap. I prefer to give it time in the keg as it helps you have nice clear beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2360" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T03:55:27.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6932" CreationDate="2012-05-09T12:48:10.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;as a side note, digital meat thermometers with a thin flat cord attaching a probe to a base station work REALLY WELL! I splurged and bought a high quality one ($30) and it's amazing. You insert the metal probe into the mash and the thin cord allows you to close the lid and monitor temp on the base station. You can even set it to alarm at certain temperatures. Not a necessity, but it does make things easier!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T12:48:10.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6956" CreationDate="2012-05-09T13:16:41.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds about right. A bigger brew doesn't always hit FG within 4 days. I'm sure you'll be fine leaving it another week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mash temperature is high, so this could have produced a larger than normal amount of non-fermentables, leading to a high FG. But, I wouldn't make that conclusion until after at least another week has passed, with an ambient temp of 66-68F/17-18C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some points to keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no airlock activity does not always mean no fermentation, so rouse the yeast and leave it a week and then check the gravity again. If the gravity's not moved, then you've hit final gravity for now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if the FG is still high, then determine if it's the brew or the yeast that's causing the terminal gravity to be reached by doing a forced ferment test. Take two samples, and in one sample, add a pinch of beano or dry beer enzyme from your LHBS. Pitch fresh yeast to both, and ferment both in the same location, warm (70F/20C) with occasional shaking. After 4 days take a gravity reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the one without beano reaches an acceptable FG, then it's the yeast that has given out, possibly due to temperature. Ferment warmer or pitch some fresh actively fermenting yeast.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the one with beano reaches an acceptable FG while the one without is still high, then the mash is causing the high FG. You can either choose to live with the high FG, or add a touch of beano to help bring the FG down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-05-09T15:57:45.897" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T15:57:45.897" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6932" CreationDate="2012-05-09T15:43:01.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be cautious. I'm not a chemist, but here is what I could find on the subject:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest risk appears to come from plasticizers used to make your PVC probe flexible. PVC is very brittle; the plasticizers are used combat that. A study published in the Journal of Applied Polymer Science shows high rates of leaching of plasticizers in PVC at high temperatures. PVC powder alone appears to be fairly inert, according to Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, but Vinyl chloride monomer (VCM) is highly carcinogenic and is an upstream product in the manufacturing of PVC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does your thermometer carry an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nsf.org/business/about_NSF/laboratories.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NSF&lt;/a&gt; logo? NSF logos indicate the device has passed certain safety tests for use in a food service environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it is really difficult to throw out a batch of beer; it may be fine to drink, too. The way I would approach this issue is by considering the incremental impact of routinely being concerned about what you're ingesting (i.e. a few dozen cigarettes never killed anyone, but a lifetime of smoking does kill). If it were mine, I'd probably keep the beer and be as cautious as possible down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T15:43:01.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6964" CreationDate="2012-05-09T19:44:02.727" Score="9" ViewCount="22186" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our last 4 or 5 batches have had a distinctive sour flavor to them even though each has been a completely different style (wit, brown, 2 stout, hefe). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the common reasons to get a sour off flavor?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra Info / What we have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extra sanitization, but either we are still missing it or thats not the problem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;we do BIAB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have a consistent 64F fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not all done with the same yeast (but it was all dry yeast)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the sour is not wanted.. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We ordered new tubing, new siphon, new yeast (not dry) and just did a batch last night hoping one of those will fix it. Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T15:10:59.580" Title="Sour Off flavor" Tags="|off-flavor|sour|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6963" CreationDate="2012-05-09T22:08:51.030" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the most common cause of &lt;strong&gt;sour&lt;/strong&gt; flavors is a wild yeast or bacteria infestation. In a beer that is deliberately sour, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brettanomyces&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Brettanomyces&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; yeast strain is introduced along with bacteria to create the sour flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you bake a lot in your home? It is possible that you have airborne yeasts in your home if you bake bread at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try making a yeast starter with the dry yeast or switching to liquid yeast as you mentioned. The faster you can start your fermentation, the less time any wild or undesirable yeasts will have to take root in your beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible that you are confusing the taste for that of tart, green apples? If you are making high gravity beers, the off-flavor could be Acetaldehyde, which is produced by yeasts during fermentation but dissipates as time goes on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/public/pdf/off_flavor.pdf&quot;&gt;very comprehensive list of potential off-flavors in beer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T22:08:51.030" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6975" CreationDate="2012-05-09T22:48:07.220" Score="5" ViewCount="3557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took a shot at growing some hops this year. Everything has gone fine so far, and I have healthy plants coming up about 6&quot; tall now. But, today while I was out, it appears a rabbit came by and ate the tops off all my vines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken precautions against rabbits now by putting some upright pipe around the vine to block access from the ground. But, do these vines still have a chance of producing (will the vine branch), or will I have to hope the rhizome pushes up a few more sprouts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T13:46:01.810" Title="Will a hop vine still grow if the tip has been removed?" Tags="|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6956" CreationDate="2012-05-09T23:21:18.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite the high mash I'd expect it to go a little lower.&#xA;If you didn't pitch enough yeast at the outset or properly aerate the wort its likely stalled due to poor yeast health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reality could be early transfer.  Removing the beer from the yeast cake too soon can stall a ferment.  Two weeks on the cake is a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd warm it up to 70F. While that is happening get a 0.5L of wort going (50g DME and 500ml water).  Pitch some fresh yeast in there in the morning and shake it occasionally.  When you notices a decent krausen forming in the starter, pitch the whole thing right in the beer.  Keep it warm for another 7-10 days.  Then recheck the gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might not be the best tasting beer, but it won't be bad.  This is the best way to restart a ferment. But it sounds like you are being a little premature with worrying only 4 days in.  I'd warm it up to 70F for the next 10-14 days.  The initial 4 days is where the low temp is critical for a clean fermentation profile.  Its OK to warm it up now to help dry it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T23:21:18.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6253" CreationDate="2012-05-09T23:49:40.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;the biggest danger with hot side aeration for homebrewers is that, since the air entrained will foam out before it boils, it increases the risk of a boil over on your wife's stove.  this is an issue you probably know how to deal with by the time you go all-grain so... yeah...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2389" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T23:49:40.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6969" CreationDate="2012-05-10T00:49:19.203" Score="2" ViewCount="9633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just kegged my beer and connected the regulator to the CO2 supply. I turn it on and I get no pressure. On my regulator the needle has moved up to the top of the &amp;quot;buy more&amp;quot; zone, but on the other gauge there is no pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought this CO2 under the auspices that it was full, and I want to make sure that I am doing everything correctly before I fire off a call/email to the supplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nl8Ag.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;here is a picture&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2293" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T16:59:26.983" Title="How do I get CO2 flowing into keg?" Tags="|kegging|co2|pressure|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6968" CreationDate="2012-05-10T01:00:31.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't say for certain what you're looking for without seeing a picture of your regulator, but there should be some sort of knob or screw on your regulator that you'll need to turn. When you turn that, it should open up the flow from the regulator to the tank, and you'll see the pressure on the second gauge go up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Editing some of the info from my comments into the answer: That screw in the center is what you are looking for. You'll want to tighten that, and that should start increasing the pressure on the other gauge. You may have to use a wrench or screwdriver to turn it to get it opening up. You will also have to turn the shutoff valve at the base of the regulator (the one with the little red handle) so it is in line with the tubing to open up the flow of CO2 from the output of the regulator to the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastEditorUserId="1561" LastEditDate="2012-05-10T13:23:44.950" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T13:23:44.950" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6968" CreationDate="2012-05-10T04:56:37.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to open the check valve. Little red lever near the bottom. Turn it so it's parallel to the hose. Once you've done that, adjust the main valve (in the centre of the regulator) until the pressure reading shown on the right-hand dial is at around 10psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T04:56:37.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-10T12:47:04.450" Score="5" ViewCount="2101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever used wine yeast for a batch of beer or a beer yeast for a batch of wine? I brew beer and my neighbor makes wine and we have been toying with the idea of trying to make a batch of our respected libations with the others yeast. Thoughts? I doubt it will turn out to be my best ever. But as we all know beer making is like a big chemistry experiment and what's more fun than trying new variables?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got some Wyeast 3787 that a fellow brewer gave to me and so I thought that might be a decent strain for my buddy. Not sure what he was thinking of giving to me though. I think he said something about Wyeast 4783 but he has a whole mix of yeast so there's no telling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2352" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T19:18:40.577" Title="Wine yeast for beer?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6965" CreationDate="2012-05-10T12:54:53.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too have been babying some hops this year (Glacier/Chinook) and I'm finding the birds are the bane of my existence right now but I have seen some rabbits about. So far, I'm finding that as long as the soil conditions are favorable, the plants bounce back fairly quickly. Once a rhizome has established itself, they'll continue to shoot off new vines. I'm still trying to figure out why the birds are messing with the plants though. It's not as if there's anything there for them to eat. And hops are definitely not native to my location. The nets have kept them at bay for the most part now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2352" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T12:54:53.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6971" CreationDate="2012-05-10T13:29:56.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of people doing this, most commonly with champagne yeast (EC-1118 for example). It seems to work well since they are clean, neutral yeasts. People seem to do this because they want a drier, higher ABV brew than they would get with ale yeast. However my opinion is that you may end up with paradoxically sweeter beer because--unlike ale yeast--wine yeast strains are not good at fermenting maltose/maltotriose which may leave some residual sweetness depending upon grain bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other issue is that certain yeasts emit so-called 'kill factors' which competitively prevent other yeasts from living in the wort/must. So once you pitch wine yeast you are stuck with it; you won't be able to pitch any ale yeasts later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T13:29:56.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6971" CreationDate="2012-05-10T14:48:47.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can tell you from experience that wine yeast makes bad beer.  It ferments different sugars and just doesn't taste right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T14:48:47.893" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6965" CreationDate="2012-05-10T14:50:35.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bine (not vine) will produce lateral shoots if the tip is broken off, but will not grow any longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T14:50:35.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6965" CreationDate="2012-05-10T17:12:56.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Established hops can put out new shoots for a while, and I've read (on freshhops.com, I believe) that commercial growers often cut back the first shoots of the spring and then train the second, hardier set that comes up.  So even if your first set gets chewed off, they may yet put up more shoots from the rhizome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your hops are first year, you might not get much of a harvest out of them anyway, so don't sweat it too much if they don't grow like crazy.  They're just working on getting their roots established.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2390" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T17:12:56.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6963" CreationDate="2012-05-10T19:20:17.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you ever notice a little layer of film in the neck of your bottles from the bad batches? That's a &quot;pelicle&quot; and is a sign of Brettanomyces/Pediococus/Lactobasilus activity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I am leaning towards the theory that you had a contamination in your bottling line, probably in the spigot of the bottling bucket. I've looked in some of those and see nasty things growing when not rinsed out thoroughly after each use. There's a lot of areas for stuff to hide in those spigots and its cheaper to replace them every couple of batches than to risk a whole ruined batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T19:20:17.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6963" CreationDate="2012-05-10T21:27:10.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Graham's&quot; post about &quot;when do you notice the sour taste appear&quot; is very important. If you don't already, next time you brew, draw a small sample at every step, if you can handle it, including your freshly cold full strength beer wort. When I was new to all grain brewing I had a batch go sour. When I went back through my notes, I had made a comment that there was a slightly sour taste after primary when I racked the beer into secondary. I was able to pint point the infection to my fridge where I had let the wort cool for 4 or 5 hours (didn't have a chiller yet)! If I had not made that comment in my log, I would have had no idea at what point the infection occur. It is strange that both your bottles and kegs are tasting sour. Although the spigot seems a likely culprit, it must be something else if the contamination has entered the keg as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T21:27:10.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6968" CreationDate="2012-05-11T13:20:13.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;swasheck have you solved the problem yet? Is the regulator used? I wonder if something has traveled back, up the gas line and into the regulator at some point (used regulator). I'm trying to tell from your picture if your's has a little screw on the front in the middle or a giant chrome &quot;nut&quot; that would take a very large wrench. I use different types of gas regulators at work all the time. My experience with the &quot;giant chrome nut&quot; style is that if they aren't adjusted regularly the nut becomes hard to turn. You may need to gently use a large pair of pliers (or the proper sized wrench if you have it) to turn the nut. Clockwise to increase the pressure, Counter clock wise to decrease. &lt;strong&gt;Procedure:&lt;/strong&gt; Turn cylinder tank valve on (counter clock wise turn). Left hand gauge (with &quot;order gas&quot; on the face) will show pressure. Slowly attempt to turn the giant chrome nut in the center of the regulator (or turn the screw if it is that type) clockwise to increase pressure to the line. When the knob (nut or screw) travels deep enough into the regulator you will see pressure register on the second gauge with or without the ball valve open (valve with little red handle). You may not hear the sound of gas if the ball valve is closed, however it will register on the gauge either way. You may also consider that the gauge could be broken, check to see if you can hear or feel gas coming out of the line once you have opened up the main valve (chrome nut of screw). Don't be afraid to turn the main adjustment valve a lot. 70% of the travel on that valve does nothing (closed position). It's only the last 30% of the screw that will actually allow gas to flow. You can turn the main valve all the way clockwise until it stops. If you still have no gas, there's something wrong with the regulator. Once you hear gas, keep the pressure around 10 PSI as mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T13:20:13.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6985" CreationDate="2012-05-11T13:35:23.397" Score="4" ViewCount="7720" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long will a keg hold carbonation if it is disconnected from the CO2 tank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the type of keg matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastEditorUserId="1561" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T14:41:59.753" LastActivityDate="2012-05-13T05:17:01.863" Title="How Long Will a Keg Hold Carbonation if Disconnected from the CO2 Tank?" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|keg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6980" CreationDate="2012-05-11T14:43:14.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as all of seals are good, it should hold pressure indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T14:43:14.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6980" CreationDate="2012-05-11T21:09:52.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, in theory, it should hold pressure indefinitely. If you don't already, perform a &quot;soap bubble leak test&quot; by pressurizing the keg (10 PSI should do it) then brushing or spraying on a water/ soap solution. If there is a leak, large bubbles will form where the leak is. The solution should be mostly water with a bit of dish soap or something similar. If the solution has too much soap in it, it will bubble just from being applied. I do a quick &quot;spray soap&quot; after I've cleaned and assembled my keg for use but before I sanitize it. It's also a good idea to check the keg connections (ball or pin lock connections) and your hose connections at the regulator and any other transition piece (regulator to tank connection, splitters, ect.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T21:09:52.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6984" CreationDate="2012-05-12T11:54:37.807" Score="3" ViewCount="1578" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a Tap-A-Draft system (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/tap-a-draft-system.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/tap-a-draft-system.html&lt;/a&gt;) because I do not have the room for a full kegging system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TAD came with 3 6L PET bottles.  I have 2 5 gallon batches that are ready to be bottled and I have a 3rd batch I am about to brew, so I wanted to fill 1 6L (1.5g) bottle from each batch and 12oz bottle the rest. My problem is that I can't seem to find a real source that tells me how much priming sugar to use per 1.5g bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen everything from '6 slightly rounded teaspoons per bottle' to '1 heaping tablespoon' to '1/3 cup per 5 gallons'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: These 'measurements' do not make me feel good, I usually like to do my sugar by weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if anybody has any experience with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since I am only going to be putting 1.5g out of my 5g into this Tap-a-Draft bottle I normally bottle a 5g batch with 5 oz. of priming sugar.  It looks like the TAD takes much less than that to carbonate (I'm assuming because you use CO2 for the dispenser) so I will need to factor that in, if I use 5 oz. for 5g I should only be using 3.5 oz. to bottle the remaining 3.5g in my 12oz bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/using-tap-a-draft.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here are the instructions from Midwest Supplies&lt;/a&gt;.  They say to add 6 rounded teaspoons to each bottle directly.  Do you not need to boil the priming sugar w/ water first?  I usually do that when bottling so that I know it is disolved, then I put that in the bottling bucket and rack my beer out of the carboy onto that to make sure it is mixed well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I be ok if I bottle the TAD with the same ratio of priming sugar that I use for the regular glass bottles or should I be using less priming sugar in these PET bottles meaning I would have to do 2 different mixtures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T12:52:40.930" Title="Priming a Tap-A-Draft system" Tags="|priming|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6983" CreationDate="2012-05-12T12:34:55.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A certain amount of sugar makes a certain amount of CO2 the size of the container it goes into doesn't matter all that much.  There tends to be a slight change in sugar when priming an entire keg at once, but I haven't always found that to be necessarily crucial.  Futhermore, the scale up from a 12oz bottle to a 6L TAD is not as large of a scale from the bottle to the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SO... rack to your bottling bucket and add your normal sugar solution as if you were bottling the whole batch.  Fill the 6Ls you want then start filling bottles as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No biggie.  And yes, measuring sugar by weight and not volume is always the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-05-12T12:34:55.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6980" CreationDate="2012-05-13T05:17:01.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indefinitely is right assuming your seal is good, but the beer will need to have absorbed CO2 to the point of &quot;equilibrium&quot;, meaning it has absorbed all it can for the pressure you have it set at. If this is not the case, the pressure will drop to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, It absorbs faster and reaches equilibrium more quickly when the beer is cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2380" LastActivityDate="2012-05-13T05:17:01.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6986" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-13T06:19:23.860" Score="6" ViewCount="14957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a Thomas Coopers Stout with 1.1kg of dark malt extract and 400g of maltodextrin and used the yeast that came with it. I got a Starting Gravity of 1.046 and Final Gravity of 1.024. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tips to get the Final Gravity lower in order to get a higher alcohol content?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2394" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-07-12T01:54:18.113" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T17:13:06.287" Title="How to lower Final Gravity?" Tags="|specific-gravity|attenuation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6986" CreationDate="2012-05-13T09:30:51.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may not be able to get it lower without using enzymes. Maltodextrin is non fermentable, and most dark malts have a large amount of non-fermentables from the kilning process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding some dry beer enzyme or beano will break down the complex sugars in the dark malt, and some of other nonfermentables, but you may end up with a thin beer afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more controllable approach is to blend the beer with a low gravity, higher alcohol beer, but this of course requires another batch of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-05-13T09:30:51.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6986" CreationDate="2012-05-13T12:59:27.933" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost one third of your gravity is coming from maltodextrin powder.  This stuff is non fermentable and should be used at a lower percentage.  Also whatever yeast came with the kit is possibly old and unreliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably won't get this batch to go any lower but you can make a couple changes and brew it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use only 5-10% of the total gravity points with the maltodextrin next time.  It will still provide body and not artificially hold up the FG.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be sure of the freshness of your yeast source.  Or at the very least use two packets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While using dry yeast give them a better chance and rehydrate them in water first.  Boil and cool a cup to a pint of water so its sanitary, then sprinkle the dried yeast packets in there 20 minutes prior to pitching into the wort.  Rehydrating improves the viability of the yeast by close to 50% when compared to putting it directly in wort to rehydrate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After 5 days of fermentation try and warm the beer up to 70-72F.  This tends to give the yeast a little encouragement as the nutrients are beginning to wane and the yeast are getting tired.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-05-13T12:59:27.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7010" CreationDate="2012-05-14T18:43:01.643" Score="5" ViewCount="2040" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just added some cinnamon sticks to apple cider that was in a better bottle for 3 weeks. The airlock started to bubble once every 20 seconds, does this mean I have re-started fermentation? I plan to leave it in there for another 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-07-12T01:56:14.600" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T01:56:14.600" Title="Will the addition of cinnamon to apple cider cause additional fermentation?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6945" CreationDate="2012-05-14T19:04:50.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My process is simple and has never failed me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxiclean to remove all visible stuffs. rinse with warm water &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill a bucket with 5 litres of water and 1/4oz of StarSan, pour a bunch into an empty spray bottle, and the rest into fermenter/carboy/bottles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray all surfaces and anything that will be going near/in the beer after the boil is completed with the StarSan. Wipe dry after 60 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never had an infection using this method - and I brew in an apartment with two animals around and tons of plants and wood surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE - when using StarSan &lt;strong&gt;DON'T FEAR THE FOAM&lt;/strong&gt; - i rack and bottle into the foam every time and have never tasted anything or noticed any ill effects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2321" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T19:04:50.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6989" CreationDate="2012-05-14T20:30:58.183" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily. The addition of cinnamon sticks might have provided a nucleation site for the CO2 that was already dissolved in your cider from fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, the best way to answer this is to take a gravity reading and check to see if it looks like you still have sugars left in your cider that can be fermented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit by request for more details: I'm not going to try to explain nucleation properly, as it's been years since I've had to deal with that scientifically. But, basically, in this case, it's acting as a site that is easier for CO2 bubbles to form on than it would be for them to form in the cider. So, you get some CO2 that wouldn't otherwise leave the solution forming and bubbling out. Think Diet Coke and Mentos. It's the same principle; the Mentos acts as a nucleation site for the CO2 in the coke which causes the gas to leave the coke in a much quicker and more entertaining fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't have any real effects on your cider one way or the other. If you had wanted to make a sparkling cider, you'd still need to prime it with sugar later in the bottles; the loss of CO2 here wouldn't hurt you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastEditorUserId="1561" LastEditDate="2012-05-18T16:16:59.503" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T16:16:59.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6993" CreationDate="2012-05-15T00:28:22.950" Score="2" ViewCount="2920" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had something happen to a couple batches and can't figure out what's going on. What happens is a major flavor change after the first two weeks of primary, but for the worse. Normally my beers keep getting better by the day wether I bottle or keg and seem to mature, but a couple batches have basically taken a bad turn and come out really similar even though they were completely different beers (Imperial IPA(bottled) and Helles Bock(keg)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The helles bock was clear and bright after a two week primary and two weeks of lagering and then I moved it to a serving keg (with a jumper hose to not get any oxygen in) to get it off the settled yeast, and lager a bit longer. I sampled a couple glasses right after the move it was excellent, clear, tasted clean and crisp. Now after two weeks sitting in the fridge it is horrible! Also it seems to have gotten cloudy too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my only guesses would be oxygenation, but the only comments I find claim oxygenated beer tastes like &quot;wet cardboard&quot;... don't really know what that would be, but doesn't seem like that to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T01:51:17.587" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T17:35:47.213" Title="What is causing a bad flavor after cold conditioning?" Tags="|beer|kegging|bottle-conditioning|off-flavor|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6992" CreationDate="2012-05-15T01:36:53.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would you describe the off flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely scenario is that the beer picked up an infection somewhere between primary and the keg. Maybe you've got something funky growing in your lagering fridge? In the jumper hose? The keg itself? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest replacing all the beer line, and sanitizing anything you get bleach on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2012-05-20T02:33:41.317" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T02:33:41.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6992" CreationDate="2012-05-15T12:05:08.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Tobias is correct.  It sounds like you've picked up some wild yeast or bacteria from somewhere.  You need to clean everything that beer touches after boiling.  I recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace all of your tubing.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disassemble and soak everything (that is plastic or stainless, including all of the new tubing) overnight in hot water and PBW or Oxiclean.  Remember that you can take all of the valves for kegs apart, too. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the cleaner is rinsed off, soak everything again in a no-rinse sanitizer before putting it away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next time you brew, sanitize it all again right before using it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T12:05:08.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6996" CreationDate="2012-05-15T15:33:20.947" Score="2" ViewCount="6735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I kegged a batch of hefeweizen on Sunday morning and force carbonated. My all-grain recipe was a combination of several that I found online, but largely an original creation. The plan was to leave the batch in primary for a week and then transfer to secondary for three weeks or so. Life circumstances prevented me from racking the beer to secondary, so it sat in primary for nearly two and half weeks. One of the weizen recipes I consulted called for a two week primary fermentation with no secondary, so I went ahead and kegged without a secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things of note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitched one pouch of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=59&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast 3638 Bavarian Wheat Blend&lt;/a&gt; in wort cooled to 64 degrees. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermented at a steady 68 degrees (temperature controlled by putting it in my basement, which is really steadily 68 this time of year).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermentation was really active for 4-5 days. After that, there was no visible sign of fermentation activity, however, I did not pull a sample until beer was kegged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The beer tasted good out of the carboy after 2.5 weeks (albeit 68 degrees and flat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On Monday night, the batch was sufficiently carbonated but tasted a little green; mostly a little too sweet. Definitely drinkable and on the right track, but I probably jumped the gun a little.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gravity right before kegging was very near the expected final gravity. Expected OG 1.051, expected FG 1.014; actual OG 1.056, actual FG 1.020. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: the beer doesn't seem finished now that I've carbonated it. Should I leave it in the pressurized keg in the fridge and condition for a few weeks to a month; or should I release pressure, let it go flat, and put it back into a carboy to finish out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="2364" LastEditDate="2012-05-16T00:42:52.457" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T00:42:52.457" Title="Premature Kegging - leave batch in keg or rack to carboy?" Tags="|fermentation|kegging|secondary-fermentation|conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6995" CreationDate="2012-05-15T15:43:42.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would leave it in the keg - there's little to gain from racking, and you risk contaminating or oxidizing the beer. An Ale yeast has a hard time conditioning at fridge temps, but the beer will condition in the keg if you take it out the fridge and leave it for 10-14 days at room temp, around 64-70F/17-20C. You don't have to bleed off the CO2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the beer has conditioned, you can then put it back in the fridge for a few days before serving. This gets the CO2 back into equilibrium at serving temp so the beer is properly carbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T17:14:18.730" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T17:14:18.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6999" CreationDate="2012-05-15T17:42:24.170" Score="6" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in brewing the Flanders red that is found in Brewing Classic Styles. Jamil mentions using the Wyeast 3763 or WLP655 and leaving it sit for a year until the pellicle forms then falls back into the beer. He doesn't mention about racking the beer off of the primary yeast cake. Should you rack your beer off? Is that not the point of the sour mixes? Is it OK to let them sit for a year like that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just curious because I don't want to waste a year and find out I should have racked it over :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2266" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T23:46:26.657" Title="Flanders Red from Brewing Classic Styles" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|sour|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6995" CreationDate="2012-05-15T23:40:14.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a hefeweizen (or any wheat beer) secondary can be detrimental because these beer are best fresh.  Once primary is done, the prime drinking window starts to close.&#xA;I just kegged a hefe myself, 16 days in primary 1050 down to 1012.  Very nice taste going into the keg.  So your two an a half weeks sounds perfect to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer has some sweetness to it I wonder what your fermentation was like.  Basically temp and pitch rates can create a range of interesting esters.  Those esters can come across as sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd look to that part of your process because the time in primary and no secondary sounds good to me.  If you are at your final gravity then the beer was done.  I'd bet the beer was done fermenting 5 days in and has been &quot;conditioning&quot; ever since. So that's not your problem, IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T23:40:14.683" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6997" CreationDate="2012-05-15T23:46:26.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jamil doesn't mention raking off cake in any of those recipes.  He isn't a secondary fermentation type of guy, and my experience tends to find me agreeing with him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WY3763 Roselare blend is all you need.  Pitch it and wait for it to do its thing.  Racking the beer only stresses the small population of bugs that you'll carry over.  More importantly, racking will introduce too much O2 and will promote acetic acid character to be too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T23:46:26.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6125" CreationDate="2012-05-16T09:23:17.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're consistently getting the same efficiency then just add more grain. I brew in a bag so my efficiency is pretty low (65%) but it's usually around that figure. So I don't worry and just set that efficiency in beer alchemy before I formulate a recipe and go from there. It comes out okay and I make decent beer. The hot side is fairly forgiving so I don't particularly want to change my approach to alter my efficiency since it will add more time and more complication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T09:23:17.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7001" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-05-16T15:06:11.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sparging is a step at the end of the lautering process to extract much of the remaining sugars from brewing grains by adding additional hot water to the mash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homebrewers typically practice one of two methods of sparging:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Batch sparging&lt;/strong&gt;, or English-style sparging, involves completely draining the lauter tun of wort, leaving the grainbed behind. A batch of hot sparge water is introduced into the tun, stirred, and drained as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fly sparging&lt;/strong&gt;, or German-style sparging, involves introducing hot water into the mash tun at the same rate as wort runoff. Fly sparging must be conducted very slowly to avoid compacting the grainbed. Fly sparging, if done properly, typically extracts more sugars from the grain than batch sparging.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter17.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Getting the Wort Out (Lautering) - &lt;em&gt;How To Brew&lt;/em&gt;, John Palmer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cheap 'n' Easy Batch Sparge Brewing - dennybrew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lautering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lautering - Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="2364" LastEditDate="2012-05-16T18:22:43.340" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T18:22:43.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7002" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-05-16T15:06:11.337" Score="0" Body="Sparging is a step at the end of the lautering process to extract much of the remaining sugars from brewing grains by adding additional hot water to the mash." OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="2364" LastEditDate="2012-05-16T18:23:50.203" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T18:23:50.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-17T04:28:44.873" Score="7" ViewCount="1350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to embark on my first journey to home brewed beer, but as a German, there is one critical ingredient that makes a beer a beer: A Beer Crate, or Bierkasten as we call it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNHAR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Beer Crate&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have not seen them in the USA yet (Living in Orange County, CA), it seems that cardboard holders are the preferred way, which is kinda lame :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a company to make custom crown caps, but so far I've been unsuccessful finding a company to make those plastic (HDPE) crates with a custom print, for 12 oz bottles. I found a company in China that can make me a batch of 2000, but that's massive overkill, I need 4 or 5 :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any leads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2028" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2012-05-17T15:50:03.280" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T15:08:25.300" Title="Getting custom beer crates in the US?" Tags="|bottling|packaging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-07-12T01:44:56.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7005" CreationDate="2012-05-17T04:37:35.067" Score="5" ViewCount="10488" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are Glass Beer Bottles safe to recycle/reuse? Since I can't know who drank out of it and what could be in it, I want to be sure that this is safe to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of disinfection reagent would I use, and would I use warm or cold water? (I think warm water - unless it's boiling - actually helps some bacteria to thrive?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2028" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T00:01:51.050" Title="Recycling/Reusing Bottles?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7004" CreationDate="2012-05-17T06:56:47.860" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reusing beer bottles is safe if they are thoroughly cleaned - after all, the bottles you get from the store are most likely reused bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bottles to be sanitary, they need to be both cleaned and then sanitized. There are a few ways of doing this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;putting them in the dishwasher. The cleaning cycle clears out any deposits, while the steam cycle at the end kills bacteria. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using cleaning agents such as PBw or OxiClean, followed by a no rinse sanitizer, such as StarSan or Iodophor. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right that warm temperatures can encourage bacteria to grow, but I doubt this would increase bacteria count significantly unless a new food source was introduced, and even then, the sanitization step reduces bacteria count to insignificant levels, so this doesn't really make a difference there. In fact, soaking in warm water first can loosen deposits and remove labels, getting the bottles reasonably clean before starting the actual cleaning process, helping the cleaning agent to go further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-05-18T08:20:46.193" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T08:20:46.193" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7004" CreationDate="2012-05-17T12:06:58.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's how I wound up with a closet full of empty bottles.   I've only reused bottles that came into my house full, so who drank from them isn't really a concern, aside from the fact that they'll be cleaned and sanitized before the next use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill container with bottles turned upright (a 5-gallon bucket will hold 13 12-oz bottles, and I can get 30 in my cooler).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour 1-3 teaspoons of Oxiclean Free into each bottle (I'm pouring from the scoop, so it's certainly not exact), and dust the inside container with about another 1/4 cup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill each bottle with hot water from the tap until it's bubbling over (this step is simply to keep them from floating during the next step).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When all the bottles have a good amount of hot water in them,  fill the container with hot water until it's at least half an inch (1.25 cm) above the bottle tops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the bottles soak overnight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day (or the next day I get a chance), I rinse and remove labels.  Many labels will float off in the cleaning solution (This will probably happen for the easiest bottles to reuse, according to the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1671/what-are-the-easiest-and-hardest-commercial-beer-bottles-to-re-use-for-homebrew&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;).   You'll have to work to remove the glue from some brands.   That may or may not be worth your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're particularly concerned about sanitation, you can soak the bottles in star-san before storage.   I'm lazy, though, and figure they'll pick up more dust and such while they sit, so I just wait until a few hours before bottling to worry about sanitizing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T12:06:58.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7008" CreationDate="2012-05-17T14:57:37.870" Score="2" ViewCount="964" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a 6&quot; boil screen in my kettle attached to my ball valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this doesn't strain that much hops out because of the larger holes in the screen so when I transfer it to my carboy I run it through a big funnel that has a screen in it to help filter. That screen constantly gets clogged and I have to sit there with a sanitized spoon and keep the screen clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was thinking to help strain more hops out of the kettle that I would put a stainless steel scrubber inside of the boil screen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good stainless steel ones say they won't rust, so would there be any other issue to using this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the type of scrub pads I was looking at and here is the boil screen I have. I would put one inside of the screen and run the wort out of the kettle through it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/6-boil-screen.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/6-boil-screen.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000V74DJG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Company-41496-Chore-Stainless-Scouring/dp/B000V74DJG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2021" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T15:05:59.967" Title="Stainless Steel Scrubber in Boil Screen to strain hops?" Tags="|hops|filtering|boil-kettle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7007" CreationDate="2012-05-17T15:07:58.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this will work. I've used a stainless scrubby to build a hopback, where the main point was to filter out the hops, keeping them in the container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to experiment with putting the scrubby around the braid rather than inside it, since it may be too tightly packed if put inside, preventing flow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-05-17T19:25:52.923" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T19:25:52.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7003" CreationDate="2012-05-17T16:04:58.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would contact this company.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cwcrate.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cwcrate.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They may be able to do custom printing on the crates or you could at least add one yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T16:04:58.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6989" CreationDate="2012-05-18T00:15:16.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I concur with Fire.eagle that your fermentation may have not started again, but it could have. The only way to know for sure is for you to compare gravities before and after the suspicious times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible reason it may have restarted fermenting.&#xA;The yeast may have stalled prematurely because they were cold or stressed. When you added the cinnamon sticks (and maybe moved your bottle) you might have disturbed the yeast enough to reactivate them. This is even more probable if you have experienced a recent increase in temperature such as Spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A side note: There is some sugar in cinnamon sticks. It is less then 1g per stick &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.food.com/library/cinnamon-324&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;, so you would have to add a lot of cinnamon sticks to have a noticeable fermentation. Those sugars may also not be fermentable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T00:15:16.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7012" CreationDate="2012-05-18T02:30:00.313" Score="9" ViewCount="2935" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copper is great for all sorts of things, manifolds for your cooler based mashing tun, as well as that wort chiller you can't live without.  However, copper gets really dirty, really quickly, and I don't think that any of us want all of those oxides in our brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To date, I have been cleaning my wort chiller by soaking it in a bucket of star-san, which seems like a waste and it takes a long time to wait around for it to get nice and shiny.  Soon I will be building a copper manifold as I get into all grain brewing this summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, what is the best / easiest / fastest way to get these copper parts clean enough for a day of brewing?  Would it be better to trade them out for stainless components instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1135" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T05:47:49.623" Title="cleaning copper" Tags="|cleaning|copper|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7011" CreationDate="2012-05-18T03:20:59.933" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't worry about it, other than rinsing sweet or bitter wort off of the copper manifold and chiller.   The low pH of the wort will clean off any oxides, and copper is readily consumed by the yeast (it's an essential nutrient), and it's all pre-boil, so a hot-water rinse is all that's necessary, assuming you're doing all of your cleanup at the end of your brew day (later than that, and you may need some chemical cleaners to get molds, etc. off, but you'll need to be careful with that to keep from pitting the metal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T03:20:59.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-18T06:43:48.337" Score="2" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to do enough brewing this summer to have more than one brew available for drinking. Therefore, I want to label my bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know about using milk for attaching labels, but I was wondering if anyone has used regular printer paper for labels? Or is it too thick to attach properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2392" LastEditorUserId="2392" LastEditDate="2012-05-18T21:01:56.587" LastActivityDate="2023-07-28T01:48:37.027" Title="Can I Use Printer Paper for Labels" Tags="|bottles|labels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7017" CreationDate="2012-05-18T10:22:25.870" Score="1" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father started a small cultivation of hemp (~ 2 ha) for business. I would like to start to make my beer from hemp. Unfortunately i am an absolute beginner on this subject. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which are the most delicate steps?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there some references of this kind?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2406" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T04:44:23.600" Title="Start a little business of hemp beer" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7014" CreationDate="2012-05-18T12:03:03.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume the Hemp kernels would have to be malted? I'm really not sure. I'm guessing you would still use a base malt for the majority of your mash (2 row pale barley) and use the hemp as a specialty malt. I do remember a Hemp beer from Greece I has several years ago in Ajax. It was really nice, a unique flavour. Keep digging. Someone has tried this before I gaurentee! Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T12:03:03.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7004" CreationDate="2012-05-18T12:13:22.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the most important tip regarding &quot;re-using&quot; bottles is to rinse them really well RIGHT AFTER YOUR POUR FROM THEM! Of course if you wait a few hours after no big deal, but they become much harder to clean properly if the remaining contents start to dry in anyway. I pour off my bottle, then rinse it vigorously, several times with as hot of water as I can stand. Then they sit upside down and drain for the night in my dish rack. Draining is another important tip!!! Stagnate water is nasty, you really don't want a few ml's of water sitting in the bottom of a bottle for months......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T12:13:22.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7014" CreationDate="2012-05-18T12:46:57.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only beer I know of that uses hemp is Uinta Dubhe (pronounced 'doobie'). In this episode of &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/844&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Can You Brew It&lt;/a&gt;, the brewer talks about how he uses it and how it can be pretty tricky to deal with. I believe he says that it turns to a peanut-butter-like mush in the mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He does not malt the hemp, but he may roast it. It's been a while since I listened to the episode and I don't remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T12:46:57.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7011" CreationDate="2012-05-18T13:18:05.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I clean my home made copper manifold and immersion chiller a couple of different ways. The manifold get's boiled before and after use to remove all the sticky sugars from inside the tubing. The immersion chiller get's rinsed and then boiled in the wort before chilling. It's rinsed with very hot water afterwords and sometimes I give it a clean with a soap solution. Every couple of months I do an acetic acid soak for 20 minutes in a strong vinegar solution. The copper comes out very shinny! John Palmer's &quot;how to brew&quot; site has some good info on cleaning copper. I believe he recommends the acetic acid soak &quot;every now and then&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T13:18:05.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7013" CreationDate="2012-05-18T14:33:23.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used normal printer paper with no problems at all, glued with Prit Stick as it sticks a bit more than milk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did have one batch for which a friend with a letterpress printer had printed some labels on quite thick paper, almost thin card, and even that was still flexible enough to be stuck on with Prit Stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I use normal Avery inkjet labels, 6 per sheet size, and they're fine.  Go on easily, though you can't straighten them once they're stuck so you need to be careful if you don't want them to be crooked, but I prefer that to faffing about with glue.  They also come off quite easily after a day or so soaking in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only normally label 12 from a batch and mark the caps for the rest, as otherwise it's a lot of labels and ink for each brew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1661" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T14:33:23.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-19T14:35:38.837" Score="5" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I mash in at 65 C and over an hour it drops to 60 C - will this have a detrimental effect on my brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T13:28:08.193" Title="Effect of decreasing mash temp?" Tags="|mash|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7022" CreationDate="2012-05-19T15:08:26.577" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bulk of the starch-sugar conversion happens in the first 15 minutes of the mash, so that's probably not a big problem.   You might need to mash for 90-120 minutes rather than 60 to get a really good, full conversion, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually have to do a longer mash when I'm mashing &quot;cool&quot; (which you are), anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T15:08:26.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7025" CreationDate="2012-05-19T21:01:08.250" Score="5" ViewCount="10415" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do yeast die after bottling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second batch of beer have been stored in bottles over a month now without producing any co2.&#xA;I want to add some priming sugar to start the fermentation again, but I'm unsure if it will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2409" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T22:50:55.823" Title="Do yeast die after bottling?" Tags="|yeast|bottling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7024" CreationDate="2012-05-20T09:22:25.107" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast will become dormant and eventually die after a few weeks to months, but only after any food sources, like priming sugar, have been consumed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lack of carbonation after a month could be caused by a number of things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;insufficient yeast - normally there is yeast in suspension after primary, but a highly flocculative strain may settle out completely. For bottling, 10,000 cells per ml is considered a typical cell density.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if the priming sugar was added to the entire batch, it may not have been mixed with the beer fully, leaving some bottles without sugar and others an excess.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the bottle caps are not on airtight&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;your temperature of 19-25c should be warm enough, but typically cold temperatures can hinder fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding more priming sugar can be done on a bottle or two as a test, which you can open after 3 days. You should hear a hiss, but the beer itself won't be carbonated unless it's left for another week. But if you get the hiss then the yeast are working it's most likely a problem with distributing the priming sugar evenly. No hiss, and you may need to pitch some more yeast. A tiny pinch of yeast is enough for the entire batch, but putting a tiny pinch of yeast in each bottle will work also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T09:22:25.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7011" CreationDate="2012-05-20T13:13:33.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to suggest StarSan as you did in your question.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Put it in and come back tomorrow.  Actively cleaning it yourself is ones on prerogative, but I have other things to do.  Which is also why I soak my other stuff in PBW and comeback the next day, rinse and put away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T13:13:33.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7013" CreationDate="2012-05-20T13:14:48.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paper labels with milk will work fine as long as they aren't going in a cooler full of ice water.  If their going in a fridge you are all set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T13:14:48.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7024" CreationDate="2012-05-20T13:22:48.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast are pretty hardy and it takes time before they completely die off.  Even when the nutrients are nearly all consumed the yeast simply go dormant.  I have cultured yeast out of beer bottles that were at least a year old.  Granted the total viability isn't high but they aren't all dead.   Alcohol levels, oxygen levels and storage temp plays a big role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, adding more priming sugar should work as I am sure there is plenty of yeast around.  Be sure the beer is at 70F/21C before starting.  You want the beer at room temp as the yeast see the sugar.  For ease you may want to try something like Coopers carb tabs.  Little pills of sugar for carbing one bottle at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T13:22:48.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7022" CreationDate="2012-05-20T13:28:08.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experimented with a couple overnight mashes.  I mash in and hit my 154F mash temp, close the cooler and wrap it in few heavy towels and an old sleeping bag.  I know that normally my cooler holds the 152-154F temp for at least 60minutes.  So I am not worrying about conversion time.  But in the morning my mash may be at 135F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to address flavor concerns there aren't any that I have noticed with a cooling mash.  Conversion in your case is still a concern as you mashed in cool and lost temp pretty quickly.  Outside of conversion, I wouldn't worry about flavor issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T13:28:08.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7032" CreationDate="2012-05-20T17:54:23.027" Score="5" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Berliner Weisse (1.035 O.G.) that has been fermenting on WLP630 (berliner weisse lacto blend) for about 5 days now. This is my first attempt at both a sour style beer and a starting gravity this low. My main question is about fermentation and conditioning, should I ferment like I normally would then transfer off the yeast and continue sour in a &quot;secondary&quot; and if so is there any suggestions on proper timing for original fermentation and then conditioning? Also I am considering going straight to bottle with this batch, I have bottled a couple batches a long time ago and am curios if I should do anything different bottling a sour especially one with this high of carb. My last question is about fermentation temp, I was up around 74F for a couple days before i could get it down just below 70F, should I expect any off flavor or will the sour aspect cover it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T01:49:51.320" Title="Berliner Weisse questions" Tags="|fermentation|bottle-conditioning|sour|berliner-weisse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7013" CreationDate="2012-05-20T18:00:57.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have also used printer paper with standard ink and agree with brewchez... I wouldnt put them in a lot of moister. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T18:00:57.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7030" CreationDate="2012-05-21T01:49:51.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast may have out paced the lacto at 74F and fermented much of your fermentables.  This may leave less for the lacto to work on and it may not sour as much as you were hoping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd leave the whole thing in primary for 3 weeks, then sample it.  If its still not soured move it from the cake to a fresh fermentor just to get off the cake as a precaution against autolysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T01:49:51.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7036" CreationDate="2012-05-21T13:28:29.767" Score="8" ViewCount="971" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few batches ago, I had a &quot;learning experience&quot;. I now have some pretty good ideas of where I went wrong (mainly, not having any idea how to design a recipe), but I'm wondering what I can do with a case of not-very-tasty (but not completely ruined) beer. This mess started with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using too much molasses (12oz jar of molasses, with 9lbs DME)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitching a single smack-pack into a wort with OG of 1.090+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using about half of the amount of hops I probably needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The batch finished around 1.025, tastes way too sweet, and is not carbonating after about 6 weeks in the bottle. Things I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warming the bottles up (it's summer in Georgia. They're not too cold)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inverting the bottles (rewarded me with a tiny hiss after a week. Still flat and sweet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixing with a light beer (it takes a full bottle of light lager with half bottle of my beer-syrup to make something drinkable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have another batch that is about ready to bottle. I was planning on pouring my remaining 36 bottles of beer-syrup into the empty fermenter (on top of this batch's yeast), and adding a gallon of heavily-hopped light (1.030) wort to try to bring the IBUs and body back in line with something resembling beer. I would let it re-ferment for a few days before re-bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone think this would work? Is there something easier I can try? Should I just use this batch to cook ribs? Am I just embarrassing myself on the internet here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1633" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T12:54:55.833" Title="Ideas for rescuing an under-pitched and under-hopped batch" Tags="|fermentation|problems|repitch|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7034" CreationDate="2012-05-21T13:54:42.500" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't fix Sh!t beer.  Invest your time and money on re-brewing it the way you wanted to brew it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pouring the beer into a fermentor will only oxidize it and make it worse, regardless of what you want to add to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really hell bent on keeping it, go to your favorite bottle shop and buy the strongest double IPA you can get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And blend to taste in the glass with this beer.  But you can see right there you are chasing good beer with bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T13:54:42.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7034" CreationDate="2012-05-21T14:53:22.233" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO, play this batch to its strengths, e.g. cooking ribs or perhaps serving on nitrogen, or mix at pouring time with another beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try salvaging the batch by blending, but if it still doesn't turn out as you like, then you will have &lt;strong&gt;wasted two batches&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's already bottled, that would deter me away from trying to rescue it, and instead I would focus on creating a new batch from scratch using your recent experiences as a guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do attempt a rescue, keep these points in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you want to get the best attenuation from the light malt so I would ferment that  first rather than adding your high alcohol beer initially. Add the high alcohol beer when the small batch is actively fermenting (usually after 24 hours.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;even if you get 80-85% attenuation, which is on the high side for an ale yeast, the 1.030 wort will ferment down to around 1.005-6. 1.025 may well be close to the actual FG for your molasses brew considering this is an extract brew, in which case the final gravity for the mixed batch will be around 1.021 - still quite a sweet brew. You may be lucky and the renewed fermentation might reduce the gravity of the syrup beer a few points, but 1.018 is probably the lowest you'll get without using enzymes to produce a more fermentable wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-05-22T22:24:18.827" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T22:24:18.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7034" CreationDate="2012-05-22T12:36:40.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in line with brewchez and mdma when they say not to rescue the beer especially since it has already been bottled. Everything tends to get better with time, so cellar the beer, forget about it and revisit it around November or December and see if it's gotten any better. If not, I'll give you my address (I'm one state over) and you can ship it to me. NEVER pour out a batch of beer. You'd be surprised how many uses there are for &quot;lessons-learned&quot; beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2352" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T12:36:40.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7038" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-22T12:39:49.853" Score="4" ViewCount="6993" Body="&lt;p&gt;About ten days ago I transferred my homebrew (I'm new at this so for now I'm buying the kits) from the primary to the secondary. when I transferred it the gravity was reading 1.025 and it was bubbling vigorously and all was well with the world. I've been checking the SG every few days and it hasn't changed much (it is around 1.036 now), even though all other signs of fermentation are present- there are still some bubbles forming (much more slowly now than at first),it is lightly carbonated, I had a small taste and it is starting to taste right. This is the second batch where something similar has occurred. The first one I figured I didn't sterilize properly and killed my yeast somehow so I just chucked the batch out. This time I was very careful. What are the chances that its just my hydrometer that's out of whack, and if it is, is there any other way to check shy of just buying a new one?&#xA;Thanks,&#xA;E&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2414" LastActivityDate="2020-08-27T01:44:33.377" Title="Why isn't my gravity increasing? Has fermentation stopped?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7038" CreationDate="2012-05-22T13:01:12.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some misunderstandings here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;racking regular strength beers isn't usually necessary. If you do choose to rack, wait until the vigorous fermentation has subsided. Otherwise, you're not really achieving anything. One of the main points of racking is to separate the beer from the yeast, which you can't do effectively if it's still actively fermenting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;regarding your first batch, you have to work pretty hard to kill yeast at room temperature. Usually it's too high a temperature (50C/120F) that kills yeast, not contamination with other microbes. Other causes of yeast problems are kits that are more than a year old.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gravity of a brew will decrease, usually to around 75% of the original gravity. Not sure how you are getting your hydrometer to increase. To test, use some tap water. It will read about 1.000. (Tap water isn't pure, so may be off by a little.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend you read a book on brewing before starting your next batch or doing anything with your current batch. John Palmer's &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/&quot;&gt;How To Brew&lt;/a&gt;&quot; is pretty much the standard text for new brewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-05-22T13:34:27.953" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T13:34:27.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6715" CreationDate="2012-05-22T13:17:01.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash efficiency measures the gravity and volume into the boiler at the start of the boil, i.e. how well you got the sugars out of the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewhouse efficiency measures the gravity and volume into the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spend quite a while confused as to what these numbers were and what I should be using in recipe planning software such as BrewMate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe planning software typically has you set your efficiency at (for example) 75%, set your brewlength (23 litres), and has you enter your grains.  It then calculates your OG for you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this (at least in the software I've used) isn't affected by the hops you specify, or the deadspace in the boiler, or the length of boil and rate of evaporation.  &lt;em&gt;The brewlength isn't the volume you want in the fermenter, it's the volume you want in the boiler after cooling&lt;/em&gt;, and I hadn't realised this so I kept plugging in the volume I wanted in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was finding that with a hoppy beer I'd end up with lower volume into the fermenter than I wanted, but maybe at the same gravity, and &lt;em&gt;this&lt;/em&gt; certainly wouldn't be the 75% efficiency.  If it was a shorter brewlength I'd also be out, as the deadspace would make up a bigger percentage, since it's a constant volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days when I use recipe planning software I set my efficiency at 75% and formulate the recipe for the gravity and volume I want in the boiler at the end (26 litres, say), guesstimating 3 litres of loss to the hops and my boiler's deadspace, a little more if it's a very hoppy recipe, so I end up with the right sort of volume into the fermenter (23 litres).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything now seems to work out as I expect; I get both volume and gravity about as planned at the end of the boil, and the only variation is a minor one of the volume into the fermenter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or am I still confused? ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1661" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T13:17:01.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7038" CreationDate="2012-05-22T13:51:28.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with basic kit beers is that you really don't need a hydrometer. Of course it is a valuable tool, but kits can be predictable most of the time. For a regular strength ale, just follow a basic fermentation schedule: 7 days primary, 2 weeks secondary, 2 weeks in the bottles (priming).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T01:06:00.303" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T01:06:00.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7024" CreationDate="2012-05-22T14:56:45.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question has essentially been answered, but I'd like to suggest that you also check out the following rather informative write-up regarding the yeast lifecycle which I've found informative:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beer-brewing.com/beer-brewing/brewers_yeast/yeast_life_cycle.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.beer-brewing.com/beer-brewing/brewers_yeast/yeast_life_cycle.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2030" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T14:56:45.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7007" CreationDate="2012-05-22T15:05:59.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to use a rather large funnel with removable screen which clogged so quickly I gave up on it. And my boil kettle has a bazooka screen which can still clog if I'm brewing something with a lot of hops. On at least one occasions I decided to throw caution to the wind, and just dumped it all into the fermenter, figuring I could rack it off the hops/trub later on anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you just reminded me of a couple alternatives, one being the brew-in-a-bag idea (repurposed here for the hops only), the other being this cheap-but-clever homemade hop bag device: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_7UBYqsOF0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_7UBYqsOF0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which reminds me, I still need to make one of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2030" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T15:05:59.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7003" CreationDate="2012-05-22T15:08:25.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about a folding crate, like this one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200485109_200485109&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200485109_200485109&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Credit to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewfinds.com&lt;/a&gt; for originally providing me with the lead on this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2030" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T15:08:25.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7034" CreationDate="2012-05-23T12:54:55.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never tried this personally, however I remember an episode of &quot;Basic Brewing Radio&quot; titled &quot;Hopped Vodka&quot; or something like that. This guy used Vodka (and a specific procedure) to basically make a hop extract. The hops were soaked in the Vodka and a couple different distillation procedures were used (freezing and removing water, and something else) and in the end he was left with a hop syrup which he claimed was great to add to an under hopped batches, or something you bought from the store that you wanted to &quot;kick it up with the good stuff&quot;. You could try something like that on your &quot;wrecked&quot; batch. Also, through personal experience and discussion with a master brewer, I have found that 1 cup molasses is about all you should use in a 6 gallon batch, unless you are very familiar with it's effects on your wort and the final taste of your product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T12:54:55.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6963" CreationDate="2012-05-23T16:09:33.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bacteria and yeast are actually pretty tough little critters.  My brewing buddy always says once you brew a sour beer you are very likely to do it again and again without meaning too.  The reason is that the nasties get into tiny imperfections (e.g. scratches, etc.) and survive even the most thorough sterilization techniques.  So what we can assume is that most likely somewhere along you process you have an infection stowing away that is souring your beer.  Knowing where the infection comes from would help, but how many batches do you want to ruin before figuring it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems most likely that the infection you are seeing is happening during bottling but it could happen at multiple steps in the process and there is really only one way to get rid of the problem.  Throw out what you can afford to replace (e.g. tubes, stirring implements, spigots, buckets, etc.). Then for those you can't replace easily sterilize the hell out of them and sterilize for a lot longer than you normally would shaking vigorously.  Times like these are good opportunities to take a look at your sterile technique and get paranoid like crazy.  Clean and sterilize everything very carefully.  I mean everything!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.  BIAB is awesome!!!  Good choice of mashing techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T16:09:33.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6963" CreationDate="2012-05-23T17:35:55.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chlorophenols are sometimes identified as having a sour taste.  Is your water by any chance chlorinated?  If so, do you do a anything to remove the chlorine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T17:35:55.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-23T18:11:04.600" Score="10" ViewCount="2888" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever measured how the conductivity of fermenting liquids changes over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a hypothesis that it does change over time, and that as the fermentation rates and stages change, so will the capacitance of the wort.  Also, that one will see more capacitance change during early fermentation, but it will settle down to a steady value as fermentation dies down, flocculation occurs, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do I ask?  I would like to digitally measure fermentation activity without directly sampling to measure specific gravity.  Measuring SG would be great, but what I'm really interested in is activity level of fermentation.  I'm not trying to calculate SG - I'll do that when I transfer the batch from primary -&amp;gt; secondary -&amp;gt; bottling.  I'm thinking though that seeing that conductivity value level out is what's the signal for when to transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found online that seem to say this might be worth pursuing a bit.  For example here is a paper titled &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0958694600000601&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Electrical conductivity as a tool for analysing fermentation processes for production of cheese starters&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another article &lt;a href=&quot;https://doi.org/10.1007/s00217-007-0649-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; mentions, &amp;quot;We describe the interest of on-line monitoring electrical conductivity and his good correlation with pH during fermentation. The change in conductivity is primarily due to the assimilation of nitrogen (in particular, ammoniacal nitrogen), which is usually the limiting nutrient of the fermentation kinetics.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="801" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2022-05-11T09:20:53.753" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T13:31:09.320" Title="How does electrical conductivity of a fermenting liquid change over time?" Tags="|fermentation|measurements|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7048" CreationDate="2012-05-23T19:30:07.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm also researching the same thing, looking for traits in the wort that indicate how fermentation is progressing and when it's complete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any figures, but I would be surprised if the electrical conductivity changes much during fermentation. Conductivity is mainly a result of ions in the wort, which come from the water, brewing salts we add to the mash, and the grist. The yeast extract nutrients from the wort including some of the ions present, which I would guess reduces conductivity to some degree, but I imagine the effect is very slight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think a more profound change is permittivity, since there is considerably less substance at the end of fermentation that there is at the start. If the wort is used as the dielectric in a capacitor, then we can measure the capacitance which is linearly related to permittivity. The wort can be made into a capacitor by inserting two insulated metal plates - they have to be insulated since the wort is conductive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can measure capacitance by using a RC circuit. When applying a steady voltage V across the capacitor and resistor, the capacitor charges to 63 percent of the voltage V in RC time. We can continually measure the voltage, and when it reaches 63 percent of V we know RC. Since we also know R, the resistor value, we can deterimine C, the capacitance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm building a capacitance meter for use with measuring keg volumes in my kegbot, using the arduino board. It would be interesting to try this also on fermenting beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://arduino.cc/it/Tutorial/CapacitanceMeter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CapacitanceMeter&lt;/a&gt; for arduino&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T19:40:36.767" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T19:40:36.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7051" CreationDate="2012-05-23T19:36:33.723" Score="5" ViewCount="3691" Body="&lt;p&gt;What can we do to restart fermentation that got stuck over the winter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our club brewed about 7 gallons of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theweissguysbrewclub.com/index.php?page=brewBlogDetail&amp;amp;filter=daehenob&amp;amp;id=28&quot;&gt;this recipe&lt;/a&gt; in November. Primary went well, but then the weather got cold and the yeast went dormant, leaving the gravity at ~1.045. We left it until the weather got warmer this spring. When it didn't come back on it's own, we pitched several packets of dry champagne yeast. The first packet didn't seem to do anything, so we moved it to an even warmer (75ish deg) room and pitched more yeast. It's now bubbling slowly, but has only come down in gravity to 1.040 in the past week. Are there any additional things we could try to get it going again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T15:14:22.880" Title="How can I restart fermentation on a stuck strong dark belgian ale?" Tags="|beer|yeast|fermentation|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7050" CreationDate="2012-05-23T20:42:36.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pitching yeast directly into wort is not a good idea - it reduces the viability by at least half for normal strength wort, and presumably even more for higher gravity or higher alcohol worts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a lot of yeast in this brew, presumably dead or dying, so I would consider racking soon to avoid picking up a yeast bite in the beer. A schedule like this should help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make a big starter - pitch some fresh yeast, ideally the same strain from the recipe into fresh wort. 2 liters would be the minimum. If the yeast is dry, be sure to rehydrate according to the packet instructions - this is key to obtaining the highest viability. If you have a stirplate, use that also.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the yeast are actively fermenting, typicaly after 24-36 hours, rack your partially fermented wort to a new vessel, to get it off all the existing, mostly dead yeast, and pitch the actively fermenting starter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actively fermenting yeast should have a high alcohol tolerance, ideally the abbey yeast from the recipe, to preserve the intended characteristics of the brew. I don't recommend champagne yeast, unless you are sure the remaining wort contains little maltose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to consider is to incrementally add wort from your brew to the starter while it's fermenting to get the yeast gradually acclimatized to the alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in short, rack the beer off the old yeast, and pitch actively fermenting yeast. That should get it started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T20:42:36.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7081" CreationDate="2012-05-24T02:48:18.350" Score="3" ViewCount="1174" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming a limited licence application is approved, can &lt;em&gt;homebrew&lt;/em&gt; be sold in NSW, Australia?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2415" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T00:39:15.893" Title="Can homebrew be sold in NSW, Australia?" Tags="|food-safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7055" CreationDate="2012-05-24T11:31:42.243" Score="3" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to start a new batch of mead. However currently the air temperatures where I live can reach 30 degrees (Centigrade) and I have no air conditioning at home (so the temperature at home can be about 26 degrees Centigrade). Is it OK to start brewing now, or is it better to wait till autumn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2356" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2012-05-24T16:21:56.637" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T16:21:56.637" Title="Should I start mead fermentation at this time of year?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7054" CreationDate="2012-05-24T12:05:00.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends somewhat on what flavors you are looking for and how long you want to wait, post-fermentation, to drink it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warmer fermentation is going to produce more fruity esters from the yeast, but they also produce more complex (hot) alcohols.   Primary fermentation will finish relatively quickly, but the mead is going to have to sit in secondary for possibly a year or more for those hot alcohols to break down.  More of your end product mead's flavor will be from the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooler fermentation is going to produce a cleaner flavor, both as far as the esters and the alcohol.   Primary fermentation will take a little longer, but you may have a drinkable product in 6 months.   A cooler fermentation's flavors will also be more about the flavors from the honey than flavors from the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would wait until you can keep the fermenter at 20C (68F).   You can do this now, if you have an insulated cooler large enough for your fermenter and some plastic bottles that you can freeze and rotate into the cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T12:05:00.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7054" CreationDate="2012-05-24T13:34:17.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To a large degree it depends upon the yeast. On one extreme is something like EC-1118 which can handle warmer temps without much of a problem (producing a very dry mead), on the other is something like D-47 (creating a more semi-sweet traditional mead) which (from what I've heard) will start kicking out a lot of fusel alcohols at those temps. Those fusels will take a lot of aging to smooth out, if ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; wait you probably should, since any yeast will have more of a risk of producing off-flavors as the temperature rises. Consider setting up a swamp cooler, which is basically just a big tub of water that you submerse your fermenter in, keeping the temp down with ice packs until primary fermentation is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T13:34:17.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3859" CreationDate="2012-05-24T13:52:44.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The water freezes first (at least it did when this happened to me), leaving a plug of ice surrounded by a bunch of concentrated beer syrup. It might be fun to play around with this process to create stronger brews, in my case though it was undrinkable and I threw it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T13:52:44.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7050" CreationDate="2012-05-24T15:25:57.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the amount of extract you used, you might not have a stuck fermentation.  It might very well be done.  You don't know how the extract was made and between the mash temp used and additional unfermentable ingredients in the extract it can leave you with a a high FG.  More sugar would have helped, but at this point I think your choices are to either drink it as is or blend it with another beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T15:25:57.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-24T17:44:40.010" Score="3" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a bottle of raspberry flavoring from a home brew store for a Lambic brew that is still in secondary. I don't believe the flavoring has any fermentables in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should this flavoring be added to the secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I add it at bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T18:49:10.430" Title="When is it the optimal time to add flavoring?" Tags="|bottling|flavor|secondary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7059" CreationDate="2012-05-24T18:49:10.430" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add it at bottling or kegging. The flavoring does not need to sit for a prolonged period if you do not add too much so adding it to the secondary would be redundant. The time in the bottles to carbonate should be plenty of time to get what you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tip for the amount to add:&#xA;Take a 1/2 pint and drop some of the flavoring in and taste, add a little more etc... until you are happy with the flavor then multiply out how many drops/weight to add for your batch volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps,&#xA;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2230" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T18:49:10.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2012-05-25T03:25:23.900" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started using Brewer's Friend. (I was previously using BeerSmith and BrewTarget.) I like that the software web-based, so I can reference it at homebrew club meetings or brew sessions at a friend's house. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Features:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recipe calculator including expected OG and FG, IBUs, SRM color, and other common measures of a beer. (This includes multiple formulas/methods for calculating each.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recipe scaling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water conditioning calculator for areas with regionally variable water supplies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shopping and brewday checklists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Batch logs for entering gravity, tasting notes, volume collected, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tracker for progress of batch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Style guides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The recipe base is rather scant at this point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unit conversions between imperial and metric (temp, volume, etc) are a little clunky.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No mobile phone interface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Portable. Create a recipe at work, view it at home, brew it at a friend's house.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under active development. New features seem to come around frequently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I'm a web developer who found this homebrew site through some of the web development siblings on the Stack Exchange network. I appreciate that Brewer's Friend is a small start-up site under active development and that probably colors my view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T03:25:23.900" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-10T21:16:28.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3156" CreationDate="2012-05-25T06:30:09.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't have to boil the unmalted wheat. Extended protein rests will make the enzymes from your pilsner malt available to convert the wheat during sacchrification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2417" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T06:30:09.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7075" CreationDate="2012-05-25T21:09:14.097" Score="5" ViewCount="1309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to brew a pale ale.  Long story short crushing grains for all-grain brewing has a dramatic impact on efficiency.  I went to a new homebrew store and didn't bother to check whether the grain was crushed effectively.  Turns out it wasn't and so after mashing the wort had very little sugar.  So I decided that instead of throwing the batch out I would attempt a rescue.  But I had no malt extract but I did have table sugar (not the white stuff but the organic brown cane sugar kind).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a taste after transferring and it tasted a bit like vodka.  Should I expect that taste to linger or will it mellow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the recipe:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/1330289/american-pale-ale-recipes/pale-rider-summiting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hopville.com/recipe/1330289/american-pale-ale-recipes/pale-rider-summiting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastEditorUserId="1981" LastEditDate="2012-05-28T18:11:17.087" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T23:40:57.333" Title="What will happen if the main fermentable in a beer was mostly table sugar?" Tags="|sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1868" CreationDate="2012-05-26T15:53:20.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used C90 for an ESB and the colour was a beautiful ruby. Also small amounts of Special B or C120.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2420" LastActivityDate="2012-05-26T15:53:20.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3444" CreationDate="2012-05-26T16:04:34.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;White Labs has an amylase product called Ultra-Ferm. It's a blend of the alpha and beta enzymes and is recommended in either high OG or low OG recipes (I used it en route to a 21.4% behemoth) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As recommended by others use corn, rice, or sugar as an adjunct as a good chunk of your grain bill (20-25%) and use an enzyme. Don't expect a super flavorful experience. Light beers show every process/fermentation flaw and are straight tough to pull off but don't let keep you from experimenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for caloric calculations a good brewing software could spit out nutritional value by recipe. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2420" LastActivityDate="2012-05-26T16:04:34.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7050" CreationDate="2012-05-27T15:14:22.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;RDWHAHB.  It takes a while and it might actually dry-out more than you expect.  This is based on personal experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TU9DV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Barleywine attenuation&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a very similar situation myself. OG 1.101 stalled at 1.033. I rehydrated champaign yeast, pitched, and moved the carboy to a 70F to 74F degree environment (from the 62F range).  Final gravity was actually a bit lower than I wanted (1.018), but it took a while.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T15:14:22.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7073" CreationDate="2012-05-27T15:20:01.233" Score="4" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just brewed an all grain batch yesterday. There was an ounce each of two types of whole leaf hops (from Freshhops) in the boil. After cooling the wort, we strained it through a fine mesh strainer into a bucket before racking into a carboy for fermentation. There were small black balls, about the size of coriander seeds, in the strainer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first knee-jerk thought was that something had fallen into the batch during the boil, but this is completely implausible, as the boil took place indoors in a clean environment and was attended most of the time. The only other thing I can think of was that these were seeds from the hop plant that made it through processing and packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We almost always use whole hops and this method, and I have never seen anything like this before. (I'm not worried; just curious.) Has anyone encountered this before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T15:54:51.360" Title="Strange black pods in wort - hop seeds?" Tags="|hops|all-grain|boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6983" CreationDate="2012-05-27T15:36:09.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottle into 6L PET bottles routinely.  Although the instructions say to use less sugar than you would normally, I just go with the onine CO2 calculators.  I enter the style, which tells me the number of volumes of CO2 desired, and you put in the volume (six liters), and it tells you how much corn sugar or table sugar to add.  Just to make sure you're in the ballbark I'll mention that I put 45 grams of corn sugar per 6L bottle for an American IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T15:36:09.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-27T16:01:04.507" Score="3" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/allgrain/AG-Saison.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Northern Brewer saison kit&lt;/a&gt; and picked the Wyeast 3724 belgian saison yeast.  Only later did I discover that this yeast has a tendency to stall out.  So as a preventative measure I started fermentation pretty warm (75F) and have been slowly knotching it up over the last two weeks (now at 85F).  My gravity is now down to 1.010 or so, and, wanting to save electricity, I was just going to remove the heater and controller.  The beer would drop to 75F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's presume that the next reading I take 5 days after the last reading is the same.  What would be the difference if I maintained the temperature versus letting the temperature fall to 75F (upstairs)?  or to 65F(basement)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T17:03:29.070" Title="What will be the effect of allowing fermentation temperature to drop on a nearly finished fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7069" CreationDate="2012-05-27T17:03:29.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We'd have to see your recipe and know about your mash to be certain, but my guess is that the beer is done fermenting.  Assuming that's the case, dropping the temp to 75F would have no negative effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T17:03:29.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7067" CreationDate="2012-05-27T17:11:53.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've sometimes had a load of seeds come through with hops but they're usually a pale colour rather than black. Maybe hop variety or were you making a dark beer? Either way I don't think they're a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T17:11:53.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6983" CreationDate="2012-05-28T12:52:40.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a neat priming calculator at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&lt;/a&gt;. You can select the &quot;volume of CO2&quot; you want, enter the amount of beer to carbonate (12oz, 6L, 5 Gal, ect) and the calculator tells you how much (by weight) to use. It calculates for Glucose (corn sugar) Sucrose (table sugar), and several different brands of DME. No idea how accurate it is or how it preforms the calculations but I use it all the time to prime the 5 or 6 extra bottles I have after I fill a corny keg.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T12:52:40.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7067" CreationDate="2012-05-28T15:54:51.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that some leaf hops (my last two packs of East Kent Goldings for instance) do contain seeds - absolutely loads of them. They are small and round and I didn't notice them until after the boil. I did a bit of research and found that it's quite common and shouldn't affect the beer, although I looked just now and found this from BYO magazine suggesting that hop seeds could give a harsh flavour. I've been ignoring it though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Brewer’s hops are the fruit or cone of the female hop plant. There are&#xA;  male hop plants, but most hop yards keep the males out because their&#xA;  flowers pollinate the female cones and result in seeds. Brewers prefer&#xA;  seedless hops, because seeds tend to lend harsh flavors to beer. &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/article/indices/37-hops/288-brewing-for-flavor-hops&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&#xA;  to article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2113" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T15:54:51.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-28T17:41:22.163" Score="2" ViewCount="3488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building 1bbl brew system one question I have relates to a recommended burner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think any burner would do for brewing the whole bbl? I'm inclined to get a  Bayou burners that for outdoors use: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100387839/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&amp;amp;langId=-1&amp;amp;keyword=burner&amp;amp;storeId=10051&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100387839/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&amp;amp;langId=-1&amp;amp;keyword=burner&amp;amp;storeId=10051&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2426" LastEditorUserId="2374" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T18:33:07.027" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T22:57:36.910" Title="What burner would be appropriate for a 1BBL brew system?" Tags="|burner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7063" CreationDate="2012-05-28T18:29:38.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The literature I've read has always warned against too much simple sugar in the fermentation.  The claim is that the yeast will produce Acetaldehyde, which &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;contributes a &quot;cidery&quot; flavor to your beer&lt;/a&gt;.  I've never experienced this personally, and there is some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/adding-sugar-your-beer-not-going-make-taste-like-freakin-cider-90498/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;talk&lt;/a&gt; that the Acetaldehyde thing may even be &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6151/what-are-the-benefits-of-using-brewing-sugar-over-types-of-sugar&quot;&gt;a bit of a myth&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely that breaking down cane sugar instead of the usual &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/701/whats-a-good-breakdown-of-all-the-sugars-in-regards-to-brewing&quot;&gt;maltose/dextrose mix&lt;/a&gt; has generated a lot of fusel alochols, giving it that vodka taste.  This is something that could go away fairly quickly, or could require an extra long time to condition out (something I've experienced with meads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible culprit for the fusel alcohol taste is having too hot a fermentation.  Especially in the early stages, your need to get your ale down around 68F. (&lt;em&gt;consensus in the comments is that my initial suggestion of &quot;below 70-75F&quot; is still too warm, and will likely still produce these unpleasant fusels&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T23:40:57.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7078" CreationDate="2012-05-29T00:37:03.887" Score="5" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just read the copy in this Northern Brewer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/allgrain/AG-Saison.pdf&quot;&gt;saison kit&lt;/a&gt; which says &quot;Saisons are brewed hoppy and fairly strong in order to keep through the summer&quot;.  I had always thought that, as a farmhouse ale, saisons are a low-alcohol beer brewed for consumption by farmhands.  Though now that I think about it, I'm not sure I've ever had a modern saison lower than 5 or 6 percent, which has me doubting the low-alcohol provenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is it?  And if it's traditionally low-alcohol, why are modern saisons not so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2425" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T01:47:05.503" Title="Are saisons a high or a low alcohol beer?" Tags="|beer-styles|saison|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7076" CreationDate="2012-05-29T01:37:21.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saison&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; article on Saison is not terribly helpful. In one paragraph it states that traditionally, saison beers were less than 3% alcohol:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;originally saisons were meant to be refreshing and thus had alcohol levels less than 3%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the very next paragraph, it says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ale had to be strong to prevent spoilage during the long storage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strong or weak? Which is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Brew Your Own &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/beer-styles/article/indices/11-beer-styles/1373-saison-style-profile&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on Saison is interesting but doesn't get much into the history of the style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BJCP &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style16.php#1c&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;guidelines&lt;/a&gt; permit alcohol levels between 5 and 7% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to keep in mind is that the notion of beer styles is a modern one. Historically, brewers did not attempt to make beer that conformed to a style. Particular regions produced characteristic beers, but that was due mainly to ingredients that came readily to hand, water profile, climate, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why no one brews a 3% ABV Saison any more, my guess is that it's simply the case that stronger beers sell better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T01:37:21.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7076" CreationDate="2012-05-29T01:47:05.503" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Farmhouse Ales&quot; (Markowski, Brewers Publications) confirms that traditionally saison – while, yes, brewed in the winter or spring and needing to keep until the summer – obtained what preservation they did have from hops, not alcohol.  It also mentions that sourness was an accepted part of saison (and in fact many beer styles :) until relatively recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also mentions pre-1900 OGs around 1.025-1.036, around-1900's OGs of 1.040-1.050, rising later to 14°P (1.057).  Even though saison is a very high-attenuating style, 90% attenuation of 1.050 only results in 6% abv.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern beers are strong because it's easier and less costly to make moderate-/high-alcohol beer, and generic &quot;stylistic inflation&quot; across all styles and categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T01:47:05.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7375" CreationDate="2012-05-29T13:44:22.630" Score="6" ViewCount="1965" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long time brewer, first time vintner here.  Working through a winexpert Pinot Grigio kit.  Primary and secondary fermentation went off without a hitch.  Got to the stabilizing, degassing, and clarification last night.  The wine is currently in a 6 gallon glass carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added the stabilzation chemicals as the directions indicated, and stirred for the 2 minutes, as the directions indicated.  I was using a mix-stir gizmo, hooked up to an electric drill.  For these first two minutes, right or wrong (I'm beginning to think wrong), I was stirring full blast with the drill.  Lots of gas came out. I added the clarification chemicals and stirred, full blast for 2 more minutes.  A lot of gas came out again.  I did the &quot;puff test&quot; at this point, using the thief to fill a hydrometer test tube about halfway, sealed the lid with my hand, shook it, and released my hand (instructions say puff - still dissolved gas, no puff - you're good to go).  I got a puff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I was thinking that I probably aerated the wine, and may need to stir slower.  I did some research and began stirring slowly on and off over the course of the next 1.5 hours until stirring no longer produced foam the way it had earlier.  At this point, it was producing very very little foam if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did the over-zealous mix-stirring damage the wine?&#xA;If the wine is not degassed (never did the puff test again after the 1.5 hour degassing marathon), how shall I proceed?  What is a standard timeframe for letting the wine degas naturally?  I am in no rush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T04:05:21.803" Title="Degassing wine - how to proceed" Tags="|wine|degassing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7082" CreationDate="2012-05-30T00:14:59.260" Score="3" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is taking the extra time to make a mash worth it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only dealt with extracts so far, but will definitely experiment with a mash (at least for learning purposes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard various people saying they couldn't taste much of a difference... I've also seen many breweries with large bags of extract on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2418" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T15:37:39.917" Title="Extract vs Mash" Tags="|mash|extract|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7052" CreationDate="2012-05-30T00:39:15.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep sure can but you will need to obtain permits and pay excise. The ATO covers it all here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ato.gov.au/businesses/content.aspx?doc=/content/00180139.htm&amp;amp;pc=001/003/095/005/001&amp;amp;mnu=0&amp;amp;mfp=&amp;amp;st=&amp;amp;cy=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ato.gov.au/businesses/content.aspx?doc=/content/00180139.htm&amp;amp;pc=001/003/095/005/001&amp;amp;mnu=0&amp;amp;mfp=&amp;amp;st=&amp;amp;cy=&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T00:39:15.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7080" CreationDate="2012-05-30T06:29:36.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main gain with a doing a partial or full mash is control, and getting a fresh malt/grain taste in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With extract, you get what you are given. You can alter some parameters, such as color and bitterness by blending different extracts and adding hops, but you get far more control when doing a mash. Also, you can mash ingredients that aren't available as extract, such as raw wheat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the mash, you can also control fermentability, setting the dial where you like on the dry-sweet/thin-full bodied scale. Finally, doing a mash just smells wonderful! It makes you really feel like you are making beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But whether these things make doing a mash worthwhile compared to extract, well, only you can decide that. I think it is, as to many all-grain brewers, but everyone will have their own opinion as to what is the best time/flavor tradeoff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T06:35:27.063" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T06:35:27.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7080" CreationDate="2012-05-30T15:08:05.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from the control over what is going into your finished product, one of the biggest plusses for me doing a mash is cost.  I can manage 2 or 3 brew days for the cost of 1 extract.  There are some expenses up front when switching to all grain, but you can easily make those losses back if you plan to continue with the hobby.  Mashing does require more time and effort, but it's a hobby, so that extra time is welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2436" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T15:08:05.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7080" CreationDate="2012-05-30T15:37:39.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing mashes introduces technique variability. Two brewers doing identical extract recipes will come out with very nearly identical beer. Two brewers using the same grain bill (doing all-grain) will not necessarily come out with identical beers, since mash technique, equipment and temperature will contribute quite a bit towards the qualities of the finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't neglect the fact that all grain is fun! I think more fun than extract (although more work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T15:37:39.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2432" CreationDate="2012-05-30T15:47:59.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rind of citrus is quite hardy and you could sanitize it as well as your knife / cutting board using a normal acidic sanitizing solution. Once you've floated the fruit in the solution for a while - bobbing it, you can then chop it into quarters after scoring the rind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rind has a lot of oils that will give a very different flavor than just the juice. I'll definitely be asking about at Fulton next time I'm there to get any more hints as to how they are doing this flavor addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume the downside of adding the quartered fruit to the keg is that you'll want to drink it down or bottle the remainder after 12 to 36 hours of soaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2374" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T15:47:59.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-30T18:16:01.367" Score="3" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this is how my last beer went:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about three weeks I threw it straight into a keg.  It didn't taste great, but I figured it was still young and just needed more time to condition.  A few weeks later I had something decent and realized that I had never force carbed it.  Over the month that that it took to drink the beer, maybe once or twice I gassed it to push out an extra glass or two when it sluggish and I was still thirsty, but the vast majority of the CO2 came from the yeast itself, not from my tank.  I called it my &quot;cask&quot; but I know it wasn't the real thing, right?  I mean, I certainly never sprang for a firkin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But isn't that the difference between a Cask Beer and a Keg Beer - the force carbing?  So was it a cask beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And besides the nomenclature, is anything from the above description bad policy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2425" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T15:48:08.970" Title="What's the difference between casking and kegging?" Tags="|techniques|kegging|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7086" CreationDate="2012-05-30T20:00:18.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that it was served and conditioned like a cask beer from your description.  Generally a cask beer is primed rather than force carbed and served via gravity rather than being pushed out with CO2, which could be absorbed by the beer.  That sounds like what you did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-06-02T15:48:08.970" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T15:48:08.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7074" CreationDate="2012-05-31T02:28:36.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check Blichmann Engineering as not only a reference for burners, but other items like pumps and valve sizing on their big kettles (you will need a 55 gallon kettle to boil 35 gallons and get, say 33 in the fermenter and keg 1 barrel).  That dual burner unit at Home Depot is probably not sufficient to hold the full boil kettle (your kettle would cover both burners).  Again, check Blichmann for burners.  The pump you choose will just determine how long it takes to move your batch, and it's my feeling that even the small March pump would be fine unless you're in a big hurry.  Have you decided on a heat exchanger? That would be a critical component.  And what vessel will you ferment in, and how will you control the fermentation temperature?  Again, critcal and somewhat 'harder' than the boil kettle, burner and valve size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="2374" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T18:32:56.683" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T18:32:56.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7091" CreationDate="2012-05-31T04:51:52.167" Score="10" ViewCount="75989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've finished my second batch of homemade cider and I'm a little disappointed to find that it is so cloudy. There are no off flavors, I actually am enjoying it, but it's cloudy. It's not just hazy. When in a pint glass and held up to the light, you can see some motion in the haziness. For background, my ingredients were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 gallons of apple juice (no preservatives)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;champagne yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yeast nutrient&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pectic enzyme&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;potassium sorbate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apple juice concentrate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brown sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My process was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sanitize everything (I used San Star)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add juice, yeast, pectic enzyme to carboy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait 30 days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using a racking cane, siphoned cider into 6 gallon bucket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;added juice concentrate, brown sugar and potassium sorbate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what might I have done wrong to end up with a cloudy cider? What can I do at this point to clear it up? Filter it somehow? Decant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2438" LastActivityDate="2019-10-06T05:03:14.137" Title="How can I clear-up a cloudy cider?" Tags="|cider|filtering|cloudy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7089" CreationDate="2012-05-31T11:37:27.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than cold crashing and maybe filtering (although I haven't heard of anybody who has ever bothered to filter), I don't know of any other techniques. Do you think the cloudiness is from the juice (ie, was it there from the very beginning?) or residual yeast in suspension? Residual yeast is more responsive to cold-crashing, while protein/fruit particulates from the cider will probably require both cold-crashing and fine filtering (cheesecloth or something like that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frankly as long as the flavor isn't affected I wouldn't bother with anything beyond cold crashing and decanting. Since you've already bottled that is the best you can do anyway. Chill them and let them sit for at least a week and see if anything drops out of suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I wonder why you added pectic enzyme? You started with juice rather than whole fruit so I don't see how that would be necessary or even useful. Perhaps it is contributing to the haziness in some way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T11:37:27.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7089" CreationDate="2012-05-31T15:13:18.400" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You just need time.  My experience is that making cider requires a schedule more like wine than beer.  I usually give my ciders 1-2 months in primary and at least another 3 months in secondary.  They turn out crystal clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T15:13:18.400" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7074" CreationDate="2012-05-31T21:16:19.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need a 55 gallon kettle to boil 35 gallons.  A 35 gallon pot would do the trick, if you can find one.  You need some head space to avoid boil-overs, but an extra 20 gallons is a bit much.  We use 300,000 or 400,000 BTU banjo burners on our 60 gallon drum kit.  Yes it takes a while to get to boil for that much, but we can get about 35 gallons to a boil in under 45 minutes, especially from sparge temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the burners you link to are the most appropriate for your scenario.  I would go with something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/products/catalog?sugexp=chrome,mod=4&amp;amp;ix=c9&amp;amp;q=bayou%20classic%20cast%20iron%20banjo%20burner&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;cid=17544074745985688563&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=Qd7HT_jANonq0gGr5tjoDw&amp;amp;ved=0CLgBEPMCMAE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bayou Classic 10&quot; Banjo Burners&lt;/a&gt; .  The BTU rating is determined by your regulator...hook up to an LP tank with a high pressure regulator and you're good to go with about 350,000 BTUs or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the regular home brewer March pump, it works fine for large batches and is reasonable in cost -- or maybe buy a chugger if its cheaper?  Either or on the pump, as long as it's rated for hot stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And only use Blichmann if you want to spend more than necessary on any equipment.  Their products ARE cool, but as a home brewer, don't you WANT to make your own gadgets?  Just because they're made by a company in china with &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; engineering, doesn't really make them better products...mostly they're just more expensive, and less fun (because you don't get to build test and perfect them yourself!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2443" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-06-06T22:57:36.910" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T22:57:36.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7089" CreationDate="2012-05-31T21:49:31.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use gelatin, isinglass or cold crash. If the apple juice was clear to begin with then the only particulate is the yeast, which you can either leave to settle out, or use finings to cause it to settle out faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tips on using gelatin, and other finings, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/12/30/fining-agents-improving-beer-clarity/&quot;&gt;Fining Agents, improving beer clarity&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T21:49:31.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7095" CreationDate="2012-05-31T23:42:33.867" Score="3" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;My parents spent some time in Germany recently and brought me back a bag of loose leaf hops as a gift / memento.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the package. All I know is what's on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRADx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hops from Germany&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Google Translate, the label just says &quot;Hop Blossoms&quot; and something about the dose being 1 tea-spoon per cup. I have no idea what they are intended for, but it seems like maybe tea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I thought it would be fun to add them to my next batch of German style beer. I only have 25 grams (0.88 oz), so this is not going to be the entire hop quantity for a batch. However, I have a few concerns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concerns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have no idea what kind of hops these are. Does it matter or should I just chuck them in the boil?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will improper storage of hops cause them to impart off-flavors? Or will the just be less potent? I put them in the freezer, but obviously the bag is not vacuum sealed, and they were at room temperature for who knows how long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any other possible concern? Is this possibly some translation issue and these aren't even the same kind of hops that are used for beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T13:30:20.323" Title="Using unknown loose hops" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7094" CreationDate="2012-06-01T00:02:08.760" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Storage of hops does have an affect on their flavor. Ideally hops should be stored frozen in a nitrogen atmosphere or vacuum packed, and packaged with an oxygen barrier material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These hops look like they've had none of that. They're normally a green color, with maybe a few tinges of yellow. These look quite yellow, which might indicate they've already begun staling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even so, you can still evaluate how they might taste in a beer. First, the aroma, check that is smells fresh, not cheezy. Then brew some hop tea using the directions on the packet. How this tastes will give you some idea of what flavors and aromas it will contribute if you used it in a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T00:02:08.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7098" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-02T17:00:46.057" Score="3" ViewCount="762" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first batch ever, a Kolsch from a kit. It fermented like crazy the first 2 days, but after 4 had stopped bubbling, so I moved it to a secondary container. As I was transferring, I noticed a thick layer of lumpy light-tan sediment at the bottom of the primary, which I did not transfer. Is this where most of the yeast was? I'm now worried that there might not be enough yeast in the secondary to complete a proper amount of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also complicating matters is that a friend advised that I didn't need to take the OG reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So should I add more yeast into this secondary container?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2447" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T02:17:47.253" Title="I moved a Kolsch to secondary after 4 days. Should I repitch yeast?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7102" CreationDate="2012-06-02T17:34:53.363" Score="3" ViewCount="8121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished my first homebrew (yay!), but my hydrometer is reading a very low alcohol content. I brewed an Edme bitter (pre-made wort and I bought the malt extract) and it tastes great, but it's only reading about 1% alcohol content. I have a floating-style hydrometer that came with my brewing kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I basically had it in the primary for about 5 days, then in the carboy for another 11-12 days. Then I added my corn dextrose (I believe that's what its called) for carbonation and bottled it in PET bottles. I left it in the bottle about 2 weeks and just started drinking it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did I do wrong to have such a low alcohol content? Did I not leave it to ferment long enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2448" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T00:26:50.670" Title="My first homebrew has a very low alcohol content" Tags="|bitterness|hydrometer|first-time-brewer|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7098" CreationDate="2012-06-02T17:55:10.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be more than enough yeast still in suspension to continue the job.  4 days is actually a little short for transferring to a secondary and you're going to end up with more sediment, or trub, in your carboy.  Assuming there are no extreme changes in temperature, you don't need to worry about the yeast until several weeks into fermenting.  Give the Kolsch a couple weeks in the carboy and it should be clear enough for looks, but still have enough yeast in suspension for bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T17:55:10.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7099" CreationDate="2012-06-02T19:20:51.233" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your process sounds fine - it's the way you're using the hydrometer that's the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To estimate alcohol content, you need to take a reading at the start of fermentation. You cannot read the alcohol content from the hydrometer alcohol scale at the end of fermentation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hydrometer cannot measure the alcohol content directly, but it can estimate how much alcohol may be produced from the sugars available at the start of fermentation. That's why you take a gravity reading before fermentation starts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a original gravity reading, there's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dd26943.com/davesdreaded/tools/convert.htm&quot;&gt;alcohol content calculator&lt;/a&gt; that you can use - just plug in your gravity readings at the start and end of fermentation and it computes the alcohol content. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a beer with original gravity of 1.040 and final gravity of 1.010 has an alcohol content of 3.9 percent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T19:20:51.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7106" CreationDate="2012-06-02T19:29:44.623" Score="5" ViewCount="974" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use plastic PET carboys (&quot;Better Bottle&quot; brand) for fermentation, mainly because they're cheaper, lighter, and safer. I use only chemicals to clean them (no brushes), so I'm not too worried about scratching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm getting ready for my first lager and wonder if I should get a glass carboy, since the beer will be sitting in it for much longer and I don't want too much oxygen getting in. I've heard that PET bottles have pretty low oxygen permeability (compared to a plastic bucket, say), but it's probably higher than glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is it worth it to get a glass carboy? Or is my airlock / stopper going to let in way more oxygen comparatively, and it doesn't really matter what the carboy is made of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T21:20:51.293" Title="Lagering in plastic carboy vs glass" Tags="|lager|carboy|oxidation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7108" CreationDate="2012-06-02T20:35:29.367" Score="3" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really enjoy bitter beers, and would really like to add hops to my next brew. However, I've only done one homebrew so far and it was using a pre-made kit (I used the Edme Bitter wort and malt extract). I don't think I'm ready (or, I should say, I wouldn't know how) to make my own wort and malt extract. Is it possible to add hops to my wort before I put it in my primary? When should I add them? And how much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2448" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T21:20:13.167" Title="What amount of taste customization can I do with pre-prepared wort (from a kit)?" Tags="|hops|wort|kits|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7103" CreationDate="2012-06-02T20:45:31.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIK, the Better Bottles are pretty impermeable so I think you should be OK.  The sensible thing to do would be to contact the company that makes them and ask about long term storage and permeability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T20:45:31.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7103" CreationDate="2012-06-02T21:01:09.243" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the better bottle PET carboys for my lagers, and have noticed no oxidization. The amount of oxygen introduced through the carboy itself is negligible compared to the amount introduced through the stopper or when racking to the bottling bucket or transferring to keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Better Bottle page discussing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.better-bottle.com/technical.html&quot;&gt;permeability&lt;/a&gt; aims to show that plastic is fine for long term ferments, and the linked report shows that brewers regularly deal with oxygen levels far greater than those due to permeabilty of PET, which is why the permiabilty can be considered negligible compared to other sources of O2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-06-02T21:20:51.293" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T21:20:51.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7104" CreationDate="2012-06-02T21:02:50.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the wort you use is pre boiled (which it sounds like it is), about your only option is to dry hop it.  That will give you aroma and a bit of hop flavor, but won't increase the bitterness.  Wait until fermentation is finished, then add about an oz. of hops to the fermenter.  If you want to keep it British style, use something like Goldings.  If you want to make it more American style, Cascade hops would be a good choice.  You may want to use a bag to contain the hops and make them easier to remove from the fermenter.  Sanitize the bag before adding hops.  You can use your regular sanitizer, or put the bag in a bowl of water in the microwave to boil for a couple minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T21:02:50.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7104" CreationDate="2012-06-02T21:20:13.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to add hop bitterness, you can get hold of some dry malt extract (DME) from your local homebrew store. Boil it up with some water, say a gallon, and add 1-2oz of your desired bittering hop and boil for 45 minutes. Add this to the fermenter along with your other pre-boiled wort and top-up water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will give you the extra hop bitterness you are looking for. There's a lot of detail here - and to try to predict the outcome, you need to know about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hop bittering calculations, %AA, IBUs&lt;/a&gt;. If your kit already contains some bitterness, usually 30 IBUs is typical, then this will need to be taken into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T21:20:13.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7110" CreationDate="2012-06-03T05:09:51.923" Score="5" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the situation: today I brewed a Kölsch style ale, and I encountered two problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mash wasn't very efficient: 60% instead of 70%. OG 1.038 instead of 1.045.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It came in under-volume: 4.5gal instead of 5.5gal. I forgot to factor loss from the hops soaking up wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan to fix both problems is that tomorrow I will brew 1gal of 1.076 wort and add it to the fermenter to gain back both volume and gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does this plan sound reasonable? Any drawbacks or pitfalls you can think of? Have I done the math right?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to include hops in the new wort addition? I am unsure if the hop utilization of the original wort is sufficient for the full 5.5gal volume or if I need to factor hops into the addition. The wort as-is tastes a little on the bitter side for a Kôlsch, but I've never done a Kölsch before so maybe that's normal at this stage. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I over thinking this? Is there an easier way?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth noting that I haven't yet pitched the yeast. The wort and the 1q yeast starter (Wyeast 2565 Kölsch; 1/2 cup pils DME; 48 hours on it) are sitting in the ferm chamber at 60F. I assume that no significant problems will be created by letting the wort sit overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe is pretty simple: 8lb pils, 1lb Vienna, .5lb wheat malt; mash @ 149F 60min; boil 60 min; Hallertau 1.75oz @ 60 and .25oz @ 10. Target 1.045/1.011. Ferm @ 60F until complete, then lager for 2-4 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T11:36:03.803" Title="Can an under-target and under-volume wort be fixed by adding more wort of higher gravity?" Tags="|all-grain|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7109" CreationDate="2012-06-03T11:36:03.803" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it can be fixed and the plan sounds fine. Make a log of this, and review when brewing in future so you can fix the process and avoid these problems in future brews. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kölsch is lightly hopped so don't worry about adding additional hops. Your lower gravity will have increased utilization slightly so adding non-hopped wort will go some way to balance this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The math is fine. With the 1 gallon of 1.076 wort I get a combined gravity of 1.045. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(4.5 x 38 + 1 x 76)/5.5 = 45.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have pitched the yeast as soon as the 4.5 gallons were at pitching temperature to get the yeast going and thwart any other microbes in there. However, since it's being stored cold, you can wait until your 1 gallon addition is ready, since you're doing that within 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you over thinking this? No, I don't think so. Although maybe doing a mini AG brew for just 1 gallon is a lot of effort. I'd probably just boil up some of the lightest DME you can get and make the 1.076 wort rather than go the AG route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T11:36:03.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7094" CreationDate="2012-06-03T13:30:20.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weigh-out a portion of the unknown hops and make a boiled &quot;tea&quot; with it.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the tea tastes bad, throw away the hops.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the tea tastes good, then make a tea with some hops of a known variety and known alpha acid content.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dilute the known hop tea until the bitterness is about the same as the unknown tea.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the math to calculate the alpha acid of the unknown hop.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on what the unknown hop tastes like, you can substitute it into a recipe, and use your calculated alpha acid so you don't under or over bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide that bittering is not a good idea for the unknown hop, then you can make a non-boiled tea with it (but it will take a week).  You can again compare with a known aroma hop and use that to scale your unknown hop into a recipe for late addition aroma/flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T13:30:20.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2012-06-04T05:36:47.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you know what Biogon is? Great mixture of CO2 and Nitrogen. We use it in Czech Republic, but I do not know if it is available in the USA. CO2 keeps the carbonation, Nitrogen preserves it, so it is a great combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.southteksystems.com/beerblast-mixed-gas-dispense-system.asp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mixed Gas&lt;/a&gt; in your country&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T05:36:47.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7117" CreationDate="2012-06-04T14:50:55.380" Score="6" ViewCount="2644" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just finishing up a DIY fermentation chamber made from a chest freezer, reptile tank heater, and a temperature controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I just need to figure out what temperature to set!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most yeast packets have a range of temperature listed. E.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast strains&lt;/a&gt; all have different ranges: generally 10-15 ˚F wide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/fo/60-Beer/60-11_product_rangeHB.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Safale yeasts&lt;/a&gt; have a large range: 59 ˚F to 75 ˚F.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know what to use for a fermentation temperature? Should I attempt to hit the middle of the recommended range? Or does it depend on the recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="1736" LastEditDate="2012-06-05T12:48:52.117" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T12:48:52.117" Title="Ideal fermentation temperature" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7114" CreationDate="2012-06-04T15:21:26.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends upon the qualities that you want from the yeast. In general, lower temperatures produce less characteristics from the yeast strain, while higher temperatures produce more. For example, ale yeasts tend to produce more fruitiness when fermented warmer, but cleaner tasting when fermented cooler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flavor characteristics vary from yeast strain to yeast strain, so best to read up to determine what you want from that yeast. If that's more than you have time for right now, you can play it safe and stick within the middle of the range until you get a feel for how the yeast performs and the flavors produced at that temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that during vigorous fermentation, the wort temperature can be several degrees higher than the surroundings, so you can dial down the temperature by 5F initially, and raise as fermentation completes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T15:21:26.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7114" CreationDate="2012-06-04T16:55:51.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally cooler is better. For most ale yeasts 60-65 F ambient is pretty good (remember that internal fermentation temps can be as much as 5-8 degrees higher than ambient air temp). Stability of temperature is very important--so pick a temp and don't vary it if you can help it (which means leave the vessel in the chamber without messing with it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An exception to cool temps would be something like Saison yeast which likes high temps--sometimes VERY high. Or certain specialty styles like California Common. In general, though, you will know when you need a higher fermenting temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T16:55:51.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7114" CreationDate="2012-06-04T17:07:26.453" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that for each recipe you put together, to do some googling to find out what temp ranges for a given yeast are going to work best for the flavor you are trying to get. Starting off in the middle of the yeast manufacturer's range is good, I know of several strains where the recommended range doesn't match what real home-brewers are reporting. For example, White Labs Hefeweizen yeasts are advertised to be best from mod 60's to low 70's, but in homebrewing circles, 59-63F is a widely-reported to be a better sweet spot for more balanced beers. Also, some specific ale yeasts get fruiter at lower temps, contrary to the general rule (US-05 gets 'peach' flavors when fermented in the low 60's, according to many folks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So pick a recipe, including a yeast, and then do research to find the best temps for that particular strain. Include the manufacturers recommended range, but don't go by that alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T17:07:26.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7119" CreationDate="2012-06-05T00:25:58.880" Score="2" ViewCount="583" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a whim, I decided to make a raspberry flavoured IPA. I bought a pre-made wort and some liquid malt extract. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I boiled about 1.5L of water with some raspberries in one of those hop mesh socks. The water got some nice color and a nice smell. Then I added another 0.5L of water and the wort. I mixed the whole thing for about 2 minutes, then I added the liquid malt extract. After a little more mixing I added the mixture to my primary fermenter (pail) and filled it to the top with cold water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's currently sitting at 26.5C (a little warm but still within the range given by the wort's instructions). My OG reading was 1.035.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My big issue with this though is the raspberries, did I add them at the right time? Should I have added more? Should I also add some during secondary fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2448" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T03:15:01.533" Title="Did I correctly add fruit flavour to my beer?" Tags="|wort|malt|fruit|ipa|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7118" CreationDate="2012-06-05T03:15:01.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you may wind up with a cloudy beer.   Boiling will have &quot;set&quot; the natural pectin (the stuff that makes jams and jellies thick) in the raspberries.   This will likely result in a beer that will never really get bright and clear.   Not that I would expect an IPA to be crystal clear anyway, really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I have added fruit like this to a mead (beer would involve the same process, really), I froze the fruit first, and then racked the mead onto it for a secondary fermentation after I thawed and lightly crushed the fruit.  The alcohol and lack of easily fermentable sugars (as well as low pH) help prevent &quot;bad&quot; microbes from getting too much of a foothold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A flavor-related concern with a sour fruit in an IPA is that strongly bitter and sour flavors are usually combined in things that our bodies tend to percieve as poison.   Most beers with sour fruit have the bitterness dialed down a bit to compensate for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T03:15:01.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6848" CreationDate="2012-06-05T13:45:06.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll take a stab at this since there are no answers yet.  I also live in a high alkaline water area (although probably not as high as yours) and I regularly use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/breweries/homebrewing/products/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;5.2 stabilizer&lt;/a&gt; to get my mash ph in the right area.  It is simple to use (1 Tbl / 5 gal batch) and uses various buffers to bring the water ph either down or up to around 5.2, which is the &lt;em&gt;general&lt;/em&gt; ph you want for &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; beer styles.  I have used lactic acid in the past to bring the ph down, and have gotten very mixed results since it is very hard to gauge how much I need to add and how much I am adding (unlike you I do not know exactly how much carbonate I have in my water, but I am in a very limestone-ridden area so I know it is up there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use acidulated malt to bring your water ph down or simply brew a beer with a lot of heavily roasted malt in it since that should also contribute acids to your mash ph. There is a reason beer styles evolved in the regions they did and a lot of that is due to water ph.  Stouts in Ireland (heavily roasted malt), Pilseners in the Pilsener Czech region, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah to answer your question, no you should not get any off flavors from the CRS.  An easy test to check is brew the same batch of beer with and without CRS added (or split your mash and do 1/2 with CRS and 1/2 without).  I have actually brewed with pond water before and there weren't any &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; detectable off-flavors in that beer.  Beer styles also hide off-flavors differently as well with darker beers hiding them better than pale beers. (The pond beer was an Irish Red Ale)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crap I forgot to add that if you are that concerned with your water, then just use bottled or otherwise known water source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="802" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T13:45:06.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6848" CreationDate="2012-06-05T15:19:15.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way to answer this question without knowing what's in the CRS and I don't see any listings for that.  I would not use it without knowing what's in it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T15:19:15.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7125" CreationDate="2012-06-05T17:19:41.983" Score="3" ViewCount="1253" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fresh hopped beers are excellent tasting and have a very excellent hop flavor.  Is it possible to get your hands on fresh hops short of growing them (note I don't have any growing space).  I live in Washington state and would be willing to drive to Oregon for the possibility.  Anyone have any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not very particular about the variety.  Was thinking about hitting up some of the Yakima valley growers and see if they wouldn't mind giving up a vine or two. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T20:07:47.467" Title="Where to get fresh hops?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7122" CreationDate="2012-06-05T18:34:58.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be surprised if you can buy fresh hops since they degrade quickly. If there were someone selling, it would probably be on advance order, local, and collection in person or direct delivery due to perishability, in the same way fresh fish is sold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have more luck if you ask about - you'd be surprised how many people have a female hop plant or two in their garden. I have 3 friends that have offered me hops. They can let you know when the cones are ready, you harvest them and use them the same day or refrigerate for a day or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T18:34:58.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6848" CreationDate="2012-06-05T19:04:49.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would avoid pH 5.2 with high carbonate levels since the quantities needed leave a salty taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the Brupaks page doesn't list the ingredients, it mentions that the CRS is an acid blend. This is a much better start than pH 5.2, which adds lots of sodium to your beer, which in excess gives a harsh saltiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Managing the mash pH can be a pain, so a simple solution like CRS that works will make your brewday considerably simpler. I would consider getting a bottle, and adding to some water the amount of CRS to reduce the carbonate to typical levels for a light Pils - this style has little acidity in the mash so you need more compensation for the high carbonates. Do a blind 3 way comparison with treated and untreated water - if the treated water still tastes good, then there's a good chance the beer will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other alternatives are to use lactic or phosphoric acid to reduce the pH, or cut with water with low carbonates, such as distilled/RO water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-06-12T12:29:31.100" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T12:29:31.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7122" CreationDate="2012-06-05T20:07:47.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hop growers I know around here (I live in OR) are generally great people.  I think if you contacted a grower near you in WA and offered to trade beer for hops, you might be in luck.  Keep in mind that there's about a 6:1 ratio between wet and dried hops, so you'll need to use a lot more than you're used to using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T20:07:47.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-06T07:27:12.673" Score="7" ViewCount="4342" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I take a yeast slurry from a batch of beer, wash it and store it in a sanitized container - how long can I leave this yeast slurry in the fridge before repitching? I'm thinking of leaving it in the order of months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T00:55:39.910" Title="Storing Yeast Slurry" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7126" CreationDate="2012-06-06T08:01:49.837" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that you can leave it for 2-4 weeks in the fridge and pitch directly. Longer than that, and it's best to make a starter from a small amount of the slurry to avoid a sluggish start and yeast bite from many dead yeast cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T08:01:49.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7128" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-06T13:32:25.220" Score="5" ViewCount="4101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some relevant facts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;18 pounds of Trader Joe's Mesquite honey, water to 5 gallons, yeast nutrient and energizer (I think it was 1 teaspoon of each, but a computer failure ate my notes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast: Wyeast Sweet Mead Smack pack (that was fully swollen).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yeast pitched End of November 2011.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG: 1.111&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transferred to secondary after fermentation calmed down, Beginning of January 2012, SG of 1.085&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Life got busy, but didn't notice any further fermentation activity, transferred to new carboy in June 2012, gravity still 1.085.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that I've been lucky and have not had any bad batches thusfar (other than from obvious brewer error), but I think my fermentation is stuck.  I have no clue how to revive a stuck fermentation, how do I proceed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tested pH and I think it was below 3.2.  The color was closest to 3.2 but did not match either 2.8, 3.2, or 3.6.  I figure I have a pH of either 3.4 or 3.0, but my gut tells me from looking at the color chips and comparing to the color or my test paper that it's 3.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, either my pH is on the bottom end of acceptable, or is too acidic to ferment.  How do I raise the pH?  Do I pitch another package of yeast (since it's been almost 7 months since pitching the first time)?  Do I add more nutrient/energizer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="106" LastEditDate="2012-06-17T17:49:21.990" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T05:15:52.460" Title="How do I un-stuck a mead's fermentation?" Tags="|mead|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7128" CreationDate="2012-06-06T19:02:46.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you severely under-pitched. That OG sounds a little low too--it's about what I would expect from 10-12 lbs of honey in 5 gallons, but maybe that brand of honey is a little more watery than most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used that strain of yeast (I'm a Lalvin guy) but if it is a wine yeast (as is likely) you are probably stuck with it. I would order another few smack packs of it and make a starter with fresh honey and nutrient. After it's been going for a few days I would start to add some of the partially fermented mead. If fermentation continues, I would continue adding the mead to it stepwise until I felt confident with the yeast population, then pitch into the full batch of mead along with fresh yeast energizer and nutrient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If adding old mead to the starter stalls it out, that's evidence that there's something not right with your old batch--maybe pH as was mentioned, maybe something else. Your pH should be in the 3.5-4.0 region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also consider switching to a dry yeast if possible to make pitching adequate yeast easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T19:02:46.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7132" CreationDate="2012-06-06T21:13:21.397" Score="5" ViewCount="5079" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are planning on brewing 1bbl batches, but we are kind of stuck on how much yeast we need.  We contacted White Labs but their 1bbl pitchable yeast is way too expensive.  I want to know what would be the best way to reuse yeast from previous batches and how much do I need for 1bbl?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2460" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-06-06T23:16:01.970" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T01:18:29.793" Title="How much yeast do i need for 1bbl batches?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7131" CreationDate="2012-06-06T21:25:14.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best place to look for this info is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.mrmalty.com&lt;/a&gt; . The answer depends on the amount of slurry you have and its age, whether it's an ale or a lager, and the OG of the beer.  The calculator on the mrmalty website will help you figure out how much to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-06-14T01:18:29.793" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T01:18:29.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7131" CreationDate="2012-06-06T23:15:05.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewerspublications.com/books/yeast-the-practical-guide-to-beer-fermentation/&quot;&gt;Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation&lt;/a&gt;, there is a propagation schedule involving stepping up each successive starter wort by a factor of 10, with a waiting time of 24-48 hours between each step.    So you start with 1 vial and make a 1L wort.   Let it go for a few days (depending on how you aerate it... a stir-plate would be ideal).   When the first starter is done, brew a 10L wort and pitch the yeast from the first starter into that.  you can increase again from there, but you're going to need successively larger kettles and fermentation vessels for  each step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done the single step-up (1L -&gt; 10L) once before for a group barrel brew and that got me ~1/2 gallon of yeast cake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T23:15:05.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7126" CreationDate="2012-06-08T00:55:39.910" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been reusing my yeast for several years now. I don't do it correctly, but it has worked out for me. I would like to share what I actually do, and you can balance that against all the really great information regarding the proper care and feeding of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only limiting factor that I really care about is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autolysis_%28biology%29&quot;&gt;autolysis&lt;/a&gt;, as this will &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter10-3.html&quot;&gt;create formaldehyde flavor in the beer&lt;/a&gt;. For modern high quality yeasts you really don't have to worry about this for eight months. I use this as an outside guide, as I will not reuse any yeast over eight months. Generally I reuse my yeast within two to three months, as that is about my brewing frequency these days, and I can say that I have never had this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are only two more factors to consider, contamination and start-up. For contamination you just want to make sure that your storage vessel is sterile. I use a pint sized mason jar. For start-up you want to get enough yeast at the right time in their life cycle. I never use a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I transfer from the primary to the secondary I harvest. I try to leave just a little beer on top of the yeast cake then swirl gently. If I do it right when I put the jar in the fridge about half will be visible yeast and half will clarify. I try to get it before fermentation has completely stopped but has almost stopped. This leaves a little sugar in the beer. The cold in the fridge crashes the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the day of brewing I pull out the yeast before I start warming water and open it, then reseal it and shake and I allow this to slowly come up to room temperature while I brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I cool down the wart I will transfer it to 5 gallon buckets. I will pitch the yeast in one of these buckets before siphoning into my fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally make about 10 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I don't say that I do this &quot;right&quot; but I have never had a problem, and I have done at least 20 batches this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2465" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T00:55:39.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="718" CreationDate="2012-06-08T12:18:09.817" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can wipe your beans with rubbing alcohol.  You do not have to worry about the seeds unless your bean has begun to rot.  If this is the case do not use it, THROW it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2467" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T12:18:09.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7138" CreationDate="2012-06-08T19:35:53.767" Score="10" ViewCount="1903" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've discovered that bottles fit in my storage fridge much more efficiency if I stack them horizontally, and I'm thinking of building some wooden racks to let me fit more bottles safely and securely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's considered best-practice to store bottles upright to allow yeast to settle and to reduce surface area inside at the bottle, but how much difference does it really make? This is for medium- to long-term storage: generally for less than a year, although a couple of bottles I've had for several years. Virtually all of my beers are capped, so cork lifetime isn't a concern of mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="1736" LastEditDate="2012-06-08T19:43:39.513" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T20:01:06.980" Title="Storing beer bottles horizontally" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7137" CreationDate="2012-06-08T20:01:06.980" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast settling out of the beer over time is a big help in clarifying the beer.  If you leave them sitting on their side the yeast will settle there such that when you upright them in your fridge the some of the yeast will re-suspend and the beer will be cloudy.  This adds a yeasty taste and also acts like a laxative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you must store horizontally it would be best to give the bottle a shake to get the yeast stuck to the side of the bottle into suspension and then leave the bottles in your fridge to cold crash the yeast back to the bottom.  That should take care of any potential issues you might run into.  How long to let them sit I can't be certain and it might just take some experimenting to find out.  But I usually let mine sit in the fridge for a good couple days before drinking and notice a big difference than when I am impatient and open them after a day or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T20:01:06.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7140" CreationDate="2012-06-09T03:35:22.180" Score="1" ViewCount="1129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just made my first ever batch of mead. I used a stronger yeast (a wine yeast) and the package said to let it sit for about 15 minutes in 50ml of warm water. I did that and added the water and yeast mixture to my fermenter which already had the must (correct terminology?) in it. However, the yeast did not just float at the top like it usually does when used dry, instead some was suspended in the must and some even ended up at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the yeast float back up in a couple days? Will my fermentation be off? Is this batch ruined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2448" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T04:49:13.320" Title="My yeast isn't floating at the top of my mead" Tags="|yeast|mead|first-time-brewer|pitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7139" CreationDate="2012-06-09T04:49:13.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes. no. no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the mead is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;put it in a dark place for a year, check on it again in 9 months, maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you didn't add yeast nutrient, add some in the next month or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T04:49:13.320" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-09T15:23:39.317" Score="0" ViewCount="841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a pH meter for Christmas and today was my first chance to try it out.  Unfortunately, I didn't think to get any lactic acid.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that my mash pH was at about 5.8 at 148F, so I put a little bit of &quot;Winemaker's acid blend&quot; into the mash, which brought the pH down to 5.3 at the same temperature, which seems to be right in the middle of the &quot;ideal&quot; pH range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blend is a mixture of Citric, Malic, and Tartaric acids, and I'm wondering if using that will have any significant flavor impact on my beer.    I see in &quot;How To Brew&quot; that Phosphoric Acid reacts with the Calcium and changes various things about the mash chemistry, but I don't see anything on any of the acids in the blend.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose I could break out my wife's old chemistry text book and try to relearn how to do the reaction formulas, but I'm hoping someone here might have an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T15:35:51.550" Title="Will using Winemaker's Acid Blend to adjust mash pH have a flavor impact on beer?" Tags="|beer|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7141" CreationDate="2012-06-09T15:35:51.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;pH should be measured and reported at room temp, about 70F.  The idea that pHosphoric acid will negatively affect Ca is pretty much outdated and disproven.  I doubt that your acid blend will have any negative affects, but it really depends on how much you used.  For more info about water, pH, and how to adjust it, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T15:35:51.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7144" CreationDate="2012-06-09T17:04:34.820" Score="3" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently extract brewing. I have a large (~8 gal) pot and a good burner, so I've got the capability to brew full-wort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I find that chilling 4-5 gallons in an ice bath is very difficult (i.e. takes forever!)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As I'm not ready to invest in a proper chilling solution yet, I was wondering if it would be better to brew smaller (say ~3 gal) worts and then make up the extra 2 gal with very cold water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard this technique mentioned, but I don't understand the details. What affect might it have on the beer? Can cold water be used to induce cold break?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2450" LastActivityDate="2012-06-10T20:53:08.957" Title="Chilling with top-off water" Tags="|chilling|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7143" CreationDate="2012-06-09T17:23:15.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was extract brewing, that's exactly how I did every batch.  I put 2 gallons of Poland Spring in the fridge, then added that to the wort that I cooled down to 120F or so in the sink.  Really worked a treat, and still made great beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for inducing cold break, I can't say if it's better or worse than using an immersion chiller, but I definitely got a good break with that technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T17:23:15.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6047" CreationDate="2012-06-09T19:16:21.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I first saw this method in &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381802&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Compleat MeadMaker&lt;/a&gt; by Ken Schramm. It seems northern-brewer-chris also uses a method that's similar. Ever since I read this, I've been practicing it and I've never looked back. I can finish a clean (not hot) mead fermentation in 6-8 weeks now instead of the accepted, ambiguous &quot;months&quot;. I still spend a good bit of time aging and clearing but I have total confidence in the &quot;staggered nutrient addition&quot; method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following an exact schedule is not crucial. I think what really matters is that the nutrient addition is scheduled across a period of time instead of all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick up a copy of the Compleat Meadmaker. He goes through a better explanation in the book than I've given here. In my opinion, it's the best reference out there (though I welcome new information).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1038" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T19:16:21.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7148" CreationDate="2012-06-10T00:43:31.520" Score="2" ViewCount="8820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about ways to measure the progress of the primary fermentation, looking for an alternative to taking samples and measuring the gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone has tried to predict the amount of alcohol produced by capturing the CO2 and measuring its volume? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like this should be simple to achieve, you'd just need to run a tube from the primary into a graduated cylinder/bottle submerged in water. As the CO2 enters the bottle, water is forced out, and you can measure the volume easily. It should be possible to calculate the amount of alcohol that has been produced given the volume of CO2 that's been released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone tried this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2451" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T20:42:25.033" Title="Measuring yeast activity by collecting CO2" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|co2|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7147" CreationDate="2012-06-10T14:24:24.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt anyone has tried this on a normal home brew scale because your &quot;graduated cylinder/bottle&quot; would need to hold 100 or 200 gallons of CO2 to capture all the CO2 for a batch.  Even if you found a way to record the volume and reset, you still would need quite a large vessel during the most active stages of fermentation.  You would also have the problem of leaks (standard homebrew equipment is not PSI tested, but it usually doesn't matter since there is postive pressure inside during active fermentation and you only care to keep air out).  People have tried the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/131&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;flow meter&lt;/a&gt;&quot; approach (counting bubbles and such).  But we have solved this problem in a much more efficient way.  It's called taking an original gravity reading and a final gravity reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-06-12T01:38:17.213" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T01:38:17.213" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7150" CreationDate="2012-06-10T14:37:48.590" Score="4" ViewCount="1527" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using CO2 calculators or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;nomograph on Palmer's site&lt;/a&gt; we see that depending on the temperature of your beer, you use a different amount of priming sugar in order to get the same effective carbonation.  Why would temperature effect the amount of CO2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My (incorrect) logic goes like this:  You put &quot;X&quot; number of yeast cells into a bottle with &quot;Y&quot; amount of food.  When the yeast are done, you have &quot;Z&quot; CO2.  So if you do two bottles, both with X and Y counts, and one bottle is warmer, then all of the food might get consumed sooner (presuming both temperatures are keeping the yeast happy), and you get Z CO2.  But the cooler bottle, once all the food is gone, should also have Z CO2, not Z plus something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is going on that changes the food to CO2 ratio when temperature changes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-06-10T17:19:06.607" Title="Why does the temperature of bottle conditioning determine the amount of priming sugar?" Tags="|fermentation|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|calculations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7149" CreationDate="2012-06-10T16:26:28.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're not accounting for is the CO2 produced during fermentation.  The colder the beer ferments, the more CO2 will be in solution in it.  That kinda gives you a &quot;head start&quot; on carbonation.  If you don't account for the CO2 retained, your beer can be either over or under carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-06-10T17:19:06.607" LastActivityDate="2012-06-10T17:19:06.607" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7143" CreationDate="2012-06-10T20:53:08.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may also find that an immersion chiller does not have to be a major investment. Where I live, my ground water stays fairly cool year round. So a simple immersion chiller is all I need to cool 6 gallons in about 15 min. I just purchased; 20' of 1/2&quot; ID soft copper tubing (in a roll), a 10' roll of 1/2&quot; ID clear vinyl tubing, a connection for a garden hose with a 1/2&quot; barbed end and 3 hose clamps. All from Home Depot. You can very carefully bend the copper over large round objects (coffee can), bend as little as possible. Just attached the tubing and garden hose connection, tighten the clamps really well and give it a test run to check for leaks. Where I live, that set up cost me about $28.00 Canadian. The same set up is sold at my LHBS for $84.99. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-06-10T20:53:08.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7156" CreationDate="2012-06-10T23:04:40.157" Score="10" ViewCount="34470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I forgot to add nutrient to my must when I put it in my carboy the other day (first time brewing mead). I fear I won't be able to get to my homebrew store before it's too late, so I'm wondering if I can create nutrient at home. Is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2448" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T05:00:19.290" Title="Alternative/homemade yeast nutrient?" Tags="|yeast|mead|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7155" CreationDate="2012-06-10T23:44:09.523" Score="1" ViewCount="1782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 5 kegs I want to carb with a single co2 tank, I have a splitter, but I don't know if I need to apply the same amount of pressure I apply to a single keg, I carb using the 40 20 method, which is 40 psi for 24 hours, then 20 psi for another 24 hours and finally at serving pressure, will I get the same results if I apply it to five kegs at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2471" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T09:24:48.843" Title="how can i carb multiple kegs at the same time?" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7153" CreationDate="2012-06-11T02:16:51.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should get the same results, though it will take longer for five kegs to come to the same pressure than for one (possibly minutes, rather than seconds). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gas will flow from a location of high pressure to one of low pressure until it's all equalized.   It doesn't matter whether that location is one keg or if it's distributed across one hundred of them.   The only limiting factor is the amount of gas in the reservoir tank.   If there's not enough gas in the tank to get all five kegs filled, then they'll all equalize out at some lower pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T02:16:51.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7153" CreationDate="2012-06-11T09:24:48.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, use the same pressure as for one keg. You can do this and it will work as expected I do it often - I have a primary regulator, 4 x secondary regulators, and each secondary feeds a 3 or 4 way manifold.  The fact that you are using a pressure regulator means that all kegs will be kept at the same pressure and will not overshoot or have any other problems. There is no difference between carbing one keg or 5 you use the same pressure, but of course, you use a larger quantity of co2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a check valve on each line of your splitter, be sure not to fill the keg too much, so that the liquid level is below the gas dip tube, or you can end up pushing beer out into other kegs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T09:24:48.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7152" CreationDate="2012-06-11T10:53:27.077" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can boil half a sachet of yeast and add that to the must. It provides many of the trace elements needed by the yeast, but I'm not sure how much nitrogen it provides, which is the key nutrient required in mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the mead is not very strong, you can in fact successfully ferment without nutrient, just pitch 50% extra yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T10:53:27.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-11T22:26:39.923" Score="1" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to buy some unhulled grains, like unhulled barley and unhulled rice for making my own malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the market for these doesn't really seem to be well organized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any online distributors for these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am in the UK, which means any Europe-based company should do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1939" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T12:31:10.337" Title="Online stores for unhulled grains in Europe?" Tags="|malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7158" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7160" CreationDate="2012-06-12T01:28:38.287" Score="5" ViewCount="2505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/allgrain/AG-Furious_Pro_Surly.pdf&quot;&gt;this 1064 OG recipe&lt;/a&gt; and used my reverse flow chiller to get it down to 74F (could have gone cooler, but my starter was at 76F or so).  It fermented like nuts (over 1.5 gallons of krausen before I got the fermcap-s on it).  The air temperature in the room the fermenter was in was about 70 or so, but my sensor indicated the beer got up to 77F.  It's now sitting at a more comfortable 68F, but for the first 24 hours, the temperature was out of control due to (I presume) the heat of the massive fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that the excitement has died down (as well as most of the fermentation activity), what can I expect from this beer, flavor-wise?  Does anyone have any experience with a S-04 or WLP007 or similar Engish ale yeast having it's initial flurry of activity just above the temperature range for the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T13:33:07.687" Title="What flavors come from fermenting S-04 on the warm side?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7157" CreationDate="2012-06-12T09:30:07.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always try asking the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ukmalt.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Maltsters' Association of Great Britain&lt;/a&gt; if any of their members could supply you with some. Or maybe one of the homebrew suppliers like &lt;a href=&quot;http://themaltmiller.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Malt Miller&lt;/a&gt; would be able to suggest where to get some. Failing that, you could try contacting the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.durdenparkbeer.org.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Durden Park Beer Circle&lt;/a&gt;, they produce the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.durdenparkbeer.org.uk/Publications.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Old British Beers and How To Make Them&lt;/a&gt; booklet, which contains information about roasting your own grains in an attempt to replicate malts of yesteryear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T09:30:07.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7158" CreationDate="2012-06-12T13:33:07.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had something similar with an Oatmeal Stout I used S-04 with. I fermented it a bit warm (room and pitch temp), but the yeast went totally nuts during the first three days. Overall, it didn't seem to have much bad effect. There was a minor note of fruity/floral-ness that was introduced, which wasn't present in subsequent iterations of the beer, but it was barely noticeable if you weren't looking for it. Since your fermenting room is cooler than mine was, I'd guess that you're fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this is anecdote, so take it with a grain of salt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2232" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T13:33:07.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7165" CreationDate="2012-06-13T01:34:02.137" Score="10" ViewCount="2019" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to carry a filled glass carboy by its neck, using one of these carboy handles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8F4e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;carboy handle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight of the glass + beer, combined with the brittleness of glass, makes me nervous (compared to a PET carboy, which is a more elastic material). Is it possible for the neck of the carboy to fail this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T11:53:53.473" Title="Holding a glass carboy by its neck" Tags="|carboy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7161" CreationDate="2012-06-13T02:24:19.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the handle as a steadying tool and something solid to hold on to when it's slick from water and cleaner.   I support the weight of the carboy from the bottom with my other hand while holding onto the handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really wouldn't recommend carrying a carboy simply by a handle on the neck unless it's totally empty, and maybe not even then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible for the neck to fail if you're carrying a full one by the neck with a handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T02:24:19.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7161" CreationDate="2012-06-13T03:10:33.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across this just today: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f19/carboy-vs-thumb-334851/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f19/carboy-vs-thumb-334851/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen more than one story like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will never carry a full carboy by a handle on the neck; milk crates or straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T03:10:33.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6848" CreationDate="2012-06-13T11:44:17.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at using CRS for a partial mash effort, but before I potentially trash all that hard work I decided to try it with an IPA kit brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Foolishly, I didn't taste test the water after treating it. I would say that is very sound advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Botttled last night and the inevitable quick taster seemed to harbour a very subtle salty/tart flavour IMO. It is very subtle thought and to be honest, without having tasted the treated water first, it's difficult to gauge if I'm imagining it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: As is so often the case, if it tastes good it's probably fine: Taste your treated water (as I didn't) and if it's salty/sour/tart try a lower dosage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know what, as it will only take 5 minutes, I'm going to treat some water this evening with same dosage as for the kit and see what its like... to be continued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T11:44:17.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7161" CreationDate="2012-06-13T11:53:53.473" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not carry a full carboy only by the neck. All of that weight is concentrated in the small area of that carrier, exerting a lot more force than the neck was designed for. It may not happen often, but the risk isn't worth the reward, in my opinion, especially when there are much better options to moving full carboys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some folks like to use milk crates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lu69A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewhauler.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brew Hauler&lt;/a&gt; when moving carboys. It's safe and much easier to lift and move around than the handle. I even use them on my plastic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.better-bottle.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Better Bottles&lt;/a&gt;, just because they're easier to handle that way, especially when you have to lower them into a chest freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAI9W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FZvb4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T11:53:53.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7166" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7167" CreationDate="2012-06-13T16:55:04.713" Score="4" ViewCount="1311" Body="&lt;p&gt;On brew day, when is the appropriate time to remove the hops and other bittering/aroma agents from the wort? Is it at flameout, or is it once the wort has been fully cooled and is ready for the primary fermenter? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case specifically, I am curious about an addition of orange peel at 1 minute left in the boil of a witbier. I didn't feel like it had quite enough time to fully do it's job when I removed all the bags at flameout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will leaving them in during the wort cooling result in any off flavors or aromas? Or is this actually what it needs to fully serve its late addition purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1902" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T18:50:07.283" Title="When to remove hops and other bittering/aroma agents?" Tags="|hops|wort|boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7166" CreationDate="2012-06-13T17:35:11.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I leave everything in until after the wort is chilled.  If I use pellet hops, they go through the pump and into the fermenter.  In over 400 batches done like this, it hasn't caused any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T17:35:11.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7166" CreationDate="2012-06-13T18:50:07.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I leave everything in while chilling. I have a funnel with a very fine mesh screen which will catch any debris while transferring from the pot to primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T18:50:07.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7179" CreationDate="2012-06-13T23:57:04.357" Score="11" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to late addition hops (or other late aeromatics), it seems to me that there might be significant differences in aroma extraction / utilization as the brewer executes different chilling techniques.  I presume here that late additions are added and remain in the wort as long as possible.  All these times depend on each person's chilling water temperature, equipement,etc, so we are forced to generalize about times, but the effect of times and temperatures are what we're trying to parse out in this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Immersion&lt;/strong&gt; - All of the wort is available and making contact with the late addition ingredient as the wort goes from boiling to pitching temperature.  This might happen over 15 to 40 minutes (whatever).  The point is that for the early part of chilling, the temperature is high, and the later part of chilling, the temperature gets colder and less likely to extract any aromas (also less likely to drive off any aromas).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Counterflow w/gravity&lt;/strong&gt; - Initially all of the wort is making contact with the late addition ingredient, and the wort stays pretty hot the whole time since chilling happens outside of the boil kettle.  Gravity feed through a counterflow chiller might happen over 15 to 20 minutes (whatever).  So the aeromatic ingredient is in the hot wort the whole time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Counterflow w/pump&lt;/strong&gt; - Same as with gravity, but the times would be shorter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Whirlpool &amp;amp; Counterflow w/gravity&lt;/strong&gt; - This is actually my setup.  I like to whirlpool and I drop a stainless steel screen down after the hops settle out in the middle of the boil kettle.  This keeps the hops from leaving the kettle when I open the valve into the counterflow chiller.  In this case, a flameout addition would be making contact first during whirlpool settling (15 minutes), plus while chilling (another 15 minutes).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hopback with chiller&lt;/strong&gt; - the theory here is that the hot wort allows extraction of the aromatic oils which are contained, due to the closed system, followed by a fast chill which locks the aromatics in before they dissipate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, should the recipe be altered based on the techniques mentioned above, and what alterations should be made for the different techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T21:03:11.147" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T21:03:11.147" Title="Should the late addition portion of a recipe be altered based on immersion, counterflow, whirlpooling techiques?" Tags="|techniques|recipe|chilling|late-addition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7173" CreationDate="2012-06-14T00:56:55.063" Score="9" ViewCount="1197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CQc8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;force carbonation tables&lt;/a&gt;&quot; used by folks who use keg systems.  They apply the tables to getting CO2 forced into a beer, and have an ending number of CO2 volumes in mind, then set the regulator to a certain pressure.  But is it valid to measure temperature and pressure and derive how many volumes of CO2 are in a bottle of beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ko3Ke.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Am I doing this right?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going from primary to secondary I had a little too much to fit into the secondary, so I put it in this 3 liter bottle to get an early taste.  I squeezed out all the air, put some CO2 on top of it and shook it for a minute or more.  I let it sit in the fridge for a few hours, shook it again.  Then afer another hour, I did this measurement (53F and 22.5 PSI).  Does is this tell me that this beer has about 2.7 (or so) volumes CO2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T15:55:42.433" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T15:55:42.433" Title="Does a given pressure and temperature determine the number of volumes of CO2?" Tags="|carbonation|co2|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7170" CreationDate="2012-06-14T01:35:20.860" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A table like that will show you the volumes of CO2 when the beer and headspace have reached equilibrium. If you only had the beer pressurized for a couple hours, the CO2 may not have fully dissolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you check the pressure later and it's stable at 22.5 PSI, that means it's at equilibrium (and has about 2.7 volumes of CO2). If the pressure has gone down, it means that more CO2 has dissolved in the beer in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(When you force carbonate using a regulator to apply a constant pressure to the beer, the pressure will never drop and the amount of CO2 in solution will rise until the system reaches equilibrium. But you're doing something different — a fixed amount of CO2, with the pressures equalizing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T01:35:20.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7170" CreationDate="2012-06-14T02:22:00.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you repeat the measurement a little later or after more shaking and the head pressure is still the same then you have achieved equilibrium and you can assumption about the volumes based on measured temp and PSI are indeed correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pressure has dropped then the beer is still absorbing CO2, add more and keep going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW: This is the coolest thing I have seen in a long time.  I love it when people think out of the box on things I take for granted every day like the carb temp chart.  I had never thought to use it that way.  This certainly the coolest thing in this site IMO.  Cheers.  Upvoted and favorited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T02:22:00.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7169" CreationDate="2012-06-14T15:38:39.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer would be to know your own brewhouse and adjust as you see fit. Home brewing is sometimes more of an art than a science - aromatics is a good example of that where precise control would require some kind of pre-analysis of the aromatic compounds, their rate of uptake and rate of volatilization. Even if you could nail it down to hard figures, you still have the uncertainty of how much aroma is lost during primary fermentation, requiring more experimentation and analysis. And finally, what one person perceives as excessively aromatic, the next may consider not to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So keep it simple - use what you have and if the aroma isn't to your liking, adjust quantities accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: To answer Graham's request about my own process:&#xA;My current process does not produce as much hop aroma as I would like, so I tend to up the late additions by 25-50% and move them closer to flameout. In the coming months I will be investigating using a hopback to see if I can use less hops for the same aroma. I will also investigate partial chilling via an IM coil to see if that helps lock in more aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-06-15T14:42:38.737" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T14:42:38.737" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-14T15:38:39.597" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7177" CreationDate="2012-06-14T20:57:36.970" Score="10" ViewCount="6901" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretical question here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when wort is boiled? Why do we do it? Why is the process not done at cooler temperatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My limited understanding, with some assistance from &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3030/is-a-long-boil-with-extract-necessary&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3503/what-causes-wort-darkening-in-the-kettle&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pasteurization&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maillard reactions, Melanoidin formation, possibly some caramelization&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Isomerization of hop acids&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm not confident that's the whole story. I know why #1 is important, I can guess at why #2 is important, and I assume #3 is important because all homebrewing instructions tell you to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The genesis of my question is the discovery of this little beastie:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamswarn.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.williamswarn.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have no intention of buying one. It's just an item of curiosity.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kits they sell include LME (presumably pre-hopped) and DME, with dry yeast. The instructional video on the home page show the procedure as putting hot-but-not-boiling water in the machine and then adding the extract and the yeast right on top of it before closing the lid. No boiling of the malts at all. That generates the question: why is wort boiled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One would presume that these extract kits are pasteurized, removing that part of the boil equation. Digging further in the web site reveals recommendations for doing partial mash; steeping specialty grains and hops (in separate pots) before adding to the machine. There's even a reference to all-grain brewing, assumedly a mash conducted before adding wort to the machine, which led me to the conclusion that the WilliamsWarn is not a brewing machine per se, but rather an automated fermenter with integrated carbonation and serving. But I digress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the difference in procedure between a normal homebrew process and this machine which allows them to get away without a boil? What purpose does the boil serve us?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard facts, assumptions, and wild speculation welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T08:12:48.437" Title="What is the purpose of boiling wort?" Tags="|boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7176" CreationDate="2012-06-14T22:34:16.477" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've covered the main reasons that I could think of off the top of my head, ie, pasteurisation, flavour formation and isomerisation of hops. A quick search reminded me of the other two, which is that it drives off unwanted volatile compounds (eg, SMM - the precursor to DMS) and it causes proteins and polyphenols/tannins to bind and precipitate out in the form of hot break. Whilst not being a reason per se, but more of an added benefit is the fact that it also concentrates the wort, thereby gaining efficiency that is lost to sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of those additional benefits would also occur during the production of pre-hopped extracts. Those pre-hopped extract cans are pretty much the standard entry point in the Australian homebrewing scene, and presumably New Zealand too, which is where that bit of kit is made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; There's a fairly comprehensive article on the reasons for boiling &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/13-boiling/1682-wort-boiling-homebrew-science&quot;&gt;on www.byo.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2012-06-14T23:26:41.773" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T23:26:41.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7169" CreationDate="2012-06-16T20:52:40.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do need to adjust the recipe for process.  However, I am sure what you are looking for is an adjustment rule to convert another brewers recipe to your process.  Well there is no hard rule for that as everyone's process is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to understand your system, brew the recipe once as is.  Then re-brew the recipe with changes in hop amounts to dial it in to your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you know the recipe was made with one method that is significantly different from yours, you'll need to rely on your own experience to make an adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where the art of being a brewer becomes apparent.  The more you brew and the more you understand your system, then you CAN make adjustments to recipes to make them come out as intended.  Even when the recipe was someone else's to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T20:52:40.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7182" CreationDate="2012-06-17T17:24:47.417" Score="3" ViewCount="1411" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Context:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a lot of grain in bulk, and have been going through it slower than expected. I stored it all in mouse-proof (but not airtight) containers. I ate a pinch of it the other day, and it was much less crunchy than it was upon purchase. It still tastes fine, and it isn't soft/over-moist, but the maritime climate here (Boston) seems to be reducing its crispness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I cope with this? Will this cause problems for beers which I brew using these grains? Are there any general adjustments I should make to my process when brewing with older, less-crisp grain? Is this grain a lost cause (please, please let the answer be 'no')?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: my grain is est. 6 months old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2232" LastEditorUserId="2232" LastEditDate="2012-07-08T21:22:38.467" LastActivityDate="2012-07-08T21:22:38.467" Title="How to cope with stale/chewy grain?" Tags="|storage|grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7180" CreationDate="2012-06-17T17:34:48.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it tastes stale and has a chewy consistency, there's not much you can do.  Either toss it, or brew with it and accept that the results will be sub par.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T17:34:48.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7180" CreationDate="2012-06-17T18:52:19.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed with 3 year old grain before and the results were mixed. Light beers weren't great, just tasted like stale grain, and they had a haze that didn't settle out completely, even after 6 months. The old grain worked best in darker beers, where you can get most of the flavor from some fresh speciality malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had 200lb of grain to get through, but didn't want to be drinking bad beer for ever, so rather than use the grain for light beers, I used the light wort for starters instead. If you have access to a pressure cooker and some canning jars, you make canned wort for starters which will last for a year or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I just re-read the question and your grain sounds fine, and not yet actually stale. Although not optimal, it should produce fine beer, especially in hop-forward beers or beer with much medium or dark roasted malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-06-17T19:51:46.253" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T19:51:46.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-17T19:42:17.250" Score="17" ViewCount="11393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm scratching my head trying to figure this one out. Here's the story: I started brewing extracts, and they all came out great. I wanted to get into all-grain so a last year I ordered myself the supplies and have been trying to make a single good all-grain batch since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the brew-in-a-bag method, and use pilsner malt, crystal malts, special b, flaked wheat, flaked oats, etc. Every beer, from the lightest pale ale (pils, crystal 40L, lots of hops) to darker beers (pils, special b) has come out with a weird flavor that I can only describe as &quot;dark&quot; and maybe burnt tasting, very bitter, not pleasant at all. Roasted malts used in stouts taste significantly better than this. The lightest beers, like a wit, taste dark and undrinkable. It kind of makes you pucker, but I can't really tell if it's astringent or sour or something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been doing one to three gallon batches. I strike at 165-170F or so, mash at 155F for an hour with a mash PH of around 5.0 according to my PH test strips. I'm using tap water, which I see others online say is okay (Seattle area). I've been mashing in my bottling bucket so that I can let a lot of the gunk settle out and use the spigot to pour into my pot for the boil, leaving behind most of the finer sediment that would otherwise be on the bottom of the pot with brew-in-a-bag. I boil for an hour with multiple hop additions based on the recipe, then cool in a bath of ice water, aerate by vigorously stirring and then pitch. The yeast always take off within a few hours and the fermentation goes great. Tasting the beer during bottling it tastes okay (I tend to try after the priming sugar is added, so it may mask the flavor), but by the time I drink the beer in a week or two it has this off flavor. I've tried letting the beer sit for a couple of months, but the flavor just stays and stays. I've tried both letting it sit in primary for a month and bottling after a week to let it sit in bottles for a month or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really at a loss here and getting incredibly frustrated. Any suggestions would be really nice. I wish I knew what I was doing wrong. Feel free to try and help me put my finger on the exact terminology to use for this off flavor - I'm not all that experienced at describing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: thought I would add that I don't have a grain mill. I have bought both pre-crushed and whole grains. Until I get a mill I've been using the blender, doing one cup at a time for 5-8 seconds on low to expose the kernels. Both the blender-chopped malt and the pre-crushed malt from a homebrew shop exhibit the off-flavor problem, so I can't imagine it's the crush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2488" LastEditorUserId="2488" LastEditDate="2012-06-18T02:10:07.977" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T02:33:33.703" Title="All my all-grain batches produce a bitter/astringent, dark, almost burnt off flavor that ruins every batch, from light pilsner to dark belgians" Tags="|mash|all-grain|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7183" CreationDate="2012-06-18T01:38:35.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone gave me a tip when I started that I followed, and it might make a difference for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grain bed is your best filter. Once you are done mashing you will sparge to separate the sugar from the grain. During this stage you want to make sure that the wort is running clear before you start collecting it. I use a pitcher to collect from the grain and I just pour it back over the grain-bed until it starts to be not-cloudy. It should be dark, but you want the fluid to not have any of the cloudy part that comes from the grain. This cloudy part is grain too and if it is boiled it can product excess tannin, which could create the flavors that you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2465" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T01:38:35.080" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7183" CreationDate="2012-06-18T12:43:19.790" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;This screams out &quot;mash water problem&quot; to me. Anytime you go from good extract beers, to &quot;bitter/astringent/chalky/burnt&quot; flavors in all grain, you can bet your buns that its a mash water pH problem. Also, a mash pH of 5 sounds really low to me. I shoot for 5.5 on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water chemistry for all-grain is honestly the most &quot;sciency&quot; part of home brewing, and can be down right intimidating. I've had a few beers turn out exactly like what you are describing and here's what I did to improve my process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Stop using tap water. There's no sense fighting this battle right now. Use all Reverse Osmosis water. This is water that's very close to distilled in terms of purity, and can be bought at my supermarket for $0.30 per gallon, making the cost negligible. You can make every style of beer in the world by starting with RO and then building up your mineral profile to match the style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get 20-30 all grain batches down without this same problem, then you can investigate using your tap water again, but it will be much more complicated. No point fooling with that now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Download and use the &quot;EZ Water Spreadsheet&quot;. Its an excellent tool for calculating your mash pH and mineral content of the final beer. You plug in your base water (easy because its all RO), your grains, and the minerals you are going to add, and the spreadsheet tells you your mash pH. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding minerals, I'm not sure how much you know, but here's a high-level overview: Every beer needs at least trace elements of Magnesium, Sodium, Calcium, Chloride and Gypsum (So4). Some styles of beer, like Pilsner, have very little mineral content at all. Some, like Irish stouts, have very high levels of minerals. Adding calcium chloride or Gypsum brings down your mash pH, as does dark roasted grains, and acid malt. If you add too much dark roasted grain, you need to either cut out some of your acidifying minerals, or start with alkaline water. The more Calcium Chloride you add to the beer, the more malty and &quot;round&quot; it tastes, while Gypsum creates a sharper hop flavor that can bleed over into kinda dry flavor if you add too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a given style, I first google &quot;[STYLE] basic water profile&quot; and then I find what most brewers are using for minerals. It will be expressed something like this jibberish: &quot;Ca 94, Mg 15, Na 18, Cl 80, SO4 130 - ratio 0.60&quot; That tells you the parts per million (or &quot;PPM&quot;) concentrations of those minerals in the final beer (not necessarily the mash). From there, I add my grains to the spreadsheet, add my mash and sparge volumes, and then add 2grams each of Calcium Chloride and Gypsum under their areas. I also start with 2ounces of acid malt as well. From there, I adjust as needed. For example, if I have too much mineral content (the row at the bottom shows you the final minerals), then I take away from CalChlor and Gypsum. As I take them away, I might have to add more acid malt to keep the pH ok. If the beer requires more hop flavor, I take away Calcium Chloride and add more to the Gypsum. If its a 100% malt forward style, I do the reverse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spreadsheet will tell you your mash pH with every adjustment, so keep your eye on that. I make sure my final minerals are in line, and just add or take away acid malt until my mash pH is in the range on that spreadsheet (5.4 - 5.6). Honestly, I don't measure my mash pH while I'm brewing but this is probably a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, I end up adding about half my minerals to my mash, to acidify it, and about half in the boil, where they just affect the beers flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T21:35:30.670" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T21:35:30.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2012-06-18T18:12:22.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the low-end of things -- similar to &quot;sharpie on the cap&quot; but more environmental friendly -- I use grease pencil. You can write right on the bottle, and it comes off easily with a &quot;brillo&quot; type scrubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The peelings from the grease pencil can go in the woodstove or compost, and there's no hunk of plastic to discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2492" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T18:12:22.597" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7188" CreationDate="2012-06-18T22:48:01.680" Score="4" ViewCount="2879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen it recommended in several places to add a tee in the pipe next to the pump used for transferring hot wort. What is the point of this / what benefits do you get? Does the tee go on the input or output side of the pump? This is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/11622/103556/March_High_Temperature_Brewing_Pump_-_High_Flow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pump&lt;/a&gt; I'm using, and my current setup has tubing from the ball valve on the kettle directly to the input of the pump, then a ball valve on the output side of the pump, then tubing to the chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T22:58:08.430" Title="Why add a tee next to the pump?" Tags="|beer|equipment|pump|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7187" CreationDate="2012-06-19T06:30:49.813" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you really mean just a tee? I guess not, since there's not much benefit, and you'll just get lots of spilled wort! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing you mean a tee, plus an attached valve - affectionately known as a &quot;burper valve&quot;, which can help rid trapped air from the pump. When the liquid first flows through the pump, it displaces the air, which can become trapped in the pump and prevents the pump from priming correctly. The tee plus valve provides a place for the air to collect, and can be released by opening the valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tee plus valve goes on the output side, preferably oriented upwards, like this example:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Lg7P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;burper valve&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It doesn't matter if the air feed is horizontal off the tee since by that time, it's already well past the pump and won't interfere with the pump's operation.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as releasing trapped air, the additional outlet is handy for taking gravity samples, during the mash, sparge and final runoff to the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-06-19T10:47:57.660" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T10:47:57.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2012-06-19T11:30:52.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer Paper and milk. that's right milk!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print the labels on my ink jet (laser is better as the ink won't run) and then dip it in milk and attach to the bottle. Run the bottle under hot water for a few seconds and the label comes right off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T11:30:52.723" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7196" CreationDate="2012-06-19T17:08:48.393" Score="5" ViewCount="3753" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the best place for the bag of hops should be somewhere in the middle on the carboy (or other container). This will mean that no hops are sitting only half in beer which should increase the saturation of the hops while not dragging the bag all the way down to the bottom so it's sitting in the trub. ref: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1414/is-it-important-to-weigh-down-a-hop-bag-for-dry-hopping&quot;&gt;Is it important to weigh down a hop bag for dry-hopping?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard many examples of objects to use as a weight, but is there a calculation for how much weight you would need to just counter the buoyancy of the hops? Or another method to accomplish the same task?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1578" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T19:50:41.417" Title="How much weight to add to a dry-hop bag?" Tags="|techniques|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7187" CreationDate="2012-06-19T17:24:58.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not much to add to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/7188/1861&quot;&gt;mdma's very nice answer&lt;/a&gt;.  The first time you get cavitation in your pump and lose prime, you will most definitely appreciate having the 'burper' valve to re-prime.  Just open it up, let some liquid flow, then continue pumping away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I'd add a few pictures of my own tees for reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used an acetal plastic gate valve on this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HPIp5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is a more fancy stainless setup, complete with tri-clamps so I can use the teed valve to prime, sample, reciruclate, and pump directly to my fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's much shinier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w88Qn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T17:24:58.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7190" CreationDate="2012-06-19T20:37:00.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't get an object to float in the middle of the carboy without some kind of active boyancy management. A passive object will either float, from almost all above the beer surface, to until the entire object is just below the surface. Increasing the weight further will cause the object to sink, and continue to sink until it hits the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception is if you could obtain stratification in the wort, with higher density wort at the bottom. Then it would be possible to have the hops float in the middle if they were matched to the same density as the lower stratification layer. They would sink through the upper layer, which is lower density, but be supported by the lower, higher density layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all speculation, and IMHO, don't think the actual improvement in flavor extraction, if any, would be worth the effort. It may be simpler to use some thin stainless steel fishing twine tied to the weighted bag so it sinks and is held at the desired depth by the twine. The twine is thin enough to pass through the side of the stopper, or could be fed through the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: To directly answer the question about how much weight to add, you need to add the difference between the total weight of the bag and the hops, and the weight of the wort that occupies the same volume. In practice, this will be difficult to get right on every try. An alternative is to add more than enough weight to weigh down the hop bag, and then find a way of increasing boyancy, such as a small inflatable balloon on the end of a long thin hose (e.g. 4mm silicone aquarium hose.) Once the hop bag is submersed and the hops fully rehydrated, you can then get them to float by inflating the balloon with air. Include a suitable valve and the air will be maintained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although again, lots of effort for small gain, when a simple string or wire will do the trick to suspend the hop bag in the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-06-20T08:56:17.597" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T08:56:17.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7187" CreationDate="2012-06-19T22:58:08.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I don't use a T on the outlet side to prime.&#xA;My system isn't hard plumbed where I need it.  The outlet hose I have on the pump serves as the air escape.  The reason to use a venting T is when the outlet end of from the pump is connected to plumbing (or hoses) that goes into fluid.  The fluid tends to create just enough back pressure that the pump doesn't prime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a circular copper tube that sits in the wort above the mash, but it is submerged.  When I turn on the pump and open the outlet valve from the tun the wort doesn't flow out that well and its because the end of the line is submerged.  When I lift it out of the wort it primes up fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was too put a more permanent recirc setup in I'd need a T because I couldn't simply lift the hose out of the tun to clear the &quot;back pressure&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T22:58:08.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7190" CreationDate="2012-06-20T10:33:06.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After trial and error, I add about a handful of those glass beads you put at the bottom of a flower vase. They're easy to boil sterilise along with what ever I'm putting the hops in. Works well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T10:33:06.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7190" CreationDate="2012-06-20T13:58:30.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To achieve your desired mid-vessel placement, you could have a weight bag and a hop bag tied together with a short amount of monofilament. Since dry-hopping is typical in the later stages of secondary, the beer is already in contact with whatever trub is left so this might be overkill for most scenarios. (Should the hop bag sink once saturated it likely will not matter one bit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you are experimenting with earlier hopping while active fermentation is still proceeding, there is no reason you can't play with weights and floats as long as the objects are impermeable for easy sanitation and not going to leach lead or other nasty compounds into your beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2374" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T13:58:30.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7190" CreationDate="2012-06-20T14:11:11.623" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't use hop bags anymore (unless in the keg!) but when I did, I usually tied a piece of dental floss to the bag. I would whipe the floss with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol first, I'm sure your sanitizing agent will do the trick. Use glass beads as weights, sink the bag to where you want it, leaving the floss hanging out the top and insert the bung/ stopper! The nice thing about the floss is, if you want to remove the hops, you could. Again, my recommendation would be to just toss the hops into the carboy, no bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T14:11:11.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7198" CreationDate="2012-06-20T21:14:11.743" Score="9" ViewCount="2949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a problem with all my beers regardless of style getting over attenuated. I've been raising my mash temps up to 4° above each beers style (up to 158° or so) to compensate with no luck. I've verified my thermometers are accurate with ice water also. I've also tried using some lower attenuating yeast strains with no luck also. Most of my beers whether they start with an OG of .50 or even .90 drop to 1.010-1.000 by the end of primary. I've thought about adding caraPils/dextrin malt to my mash, but was hoping I wouldn't have to. Any ideas to try or something I'm totally missing here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some details about my setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Converted cooler as mash tun&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60-70 minute mash stirring every 20min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;batch sparge with 170° water for 15min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Converted Keg as kettle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass 6.5 Gallon carboy with blow off tube&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;usually switch to a stopper with airlock after first three days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Appropriate yeast starters based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mrmalty&lt;/a&gt; calculations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxygenate wort before pitching with with pure O2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two week primary fermentations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermenting in a chest freezer with temperature controller &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: After all the good answers regarding the accuracy of the hydrometer and thermometer, I went ahead and tested them. My digital thermometer matched the calibrated one at freezing and boiling and boiling was as expected 201° for my altitude/pressure. The hydrometer read 1.000 at 60°. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though I feel like I'm extremely thorough and sanitary when I brew I'm settling on it being contamination. I bought a stopper and air lock for my starter flasks so I can rule out foil covered starters being the time of contamination, and doing a major cleaning of all my brew equipment, hoses, freezers and whatever else... Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT #2: Figured it out, I am really good about cleaning everything and sanitizing after after brew, but I wasn't cleaning the ball valve on my kettle. Took it apart and there was a bunch of black gunk in there! My next beer was spot on with the final gravity I was expecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastEditorUserId="1819" LastEditDate="2012-07-14T07:30:02.403" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T07:30:02.403" Title="Over attenuated all grain beers" Tags="|fermentation|mash|all-grain|attenuation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7197" CreationDate="2012-06-21T02:23:13.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are truly being that diligent about your mash temps and hydrometers including knowing they are accurate, the ONLY thing left is a contaminating wild yeast/bacteria driving down the residual gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a bottle of beer and put it in a warm attic for a week.  Chill it down overnight and open it up in the sink as a precaution.  If the beer is super foamy and thin infection is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-examine your sanitation practices.  I hope this is not the case for your sake, but its hard to find a different explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T02:23:13.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7197" CreationDate="2012-06-21T15:23:29.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just because your thermometer is accurate at freezing temps doesn't mean it's accurate at mash temps.  You need to get a certified calibration thermometer and check it at mash temps, about 150F.  It might not be your thermometer at all, but until you verify it at mash temp you just don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T15:23:29.950" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7197" CreationDate="2012-06-21T17:03:06.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you fermenting at high ambient temperatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've definitely noticed much more attenuation during summer months, when my basement is running at about 74F, compared to winter, when it's 68F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've adjusted my recipes somewhat, but more my expectations and target styles. I now brew with Nottingham and saison yeasts in the summer, with an expectation of high attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T17:03:06.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7202" CreationDate="2012-06-22T15:30:17.560" Score="6" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottle to flip top 750 ml bottles.  Should I keep using the same ones forever, or do they weaken over time, and I should get a new set some day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not extremely careful with them, I often clean them in my stainless steel sink, stack them...  I primarily do beer, but also carbonated hard lemonade and cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And please, for the love of science, don't even think of telling me that glass is a liquid.  The two forum posts I clicked on when I started researching this had people saying that glass at normal temperature is a liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2196" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T16:23:35.713" Title="Do glass bottles weaken over time?" Tags="|equipment|bottles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7201" CreationDate="2012-06-22T16:23:35.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'll be ok to use them for a good few years to come.  Glass is quite a tough substance...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest i'd be more worried about the cap - the rubber seals on those will perish at a much faster rate than the glass will.  Once you start seeing the rubber get dry, and/or start to crack then i'd start to think about replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might even be able to get replacement seals for the caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T16:23:35.713" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="565" CreationDate="2012-06-22T18:51:29.997" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can make root beer have an alcohol percentage close to beer. You follow the instructions on a root beer kit except add more sugar. Then you let the root beer sit in the bottles with the cap opened, this is to ferment them. Adding the extra sugar gives the yeast more to &quot;eat&quot; to ferment more and to still make it sweet after around 1-2 weeks of fermentation. After the 1-2 weeks put the cap on for a 1-2 days or until the bottle gets pressurized. put the bottles in your fridge and the longer they stay in the better they will taste!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2502" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-06-23T15:10:39.990" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T15:10:39.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="565" CreationDate="2012-06-23T13:13:06.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add sugar and ferment it to completion.  Done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T13:13:06.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7197" CreationDate="2012-06-23T17:06:55.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To rule out mash variables, you could double batch on your next brew day.  One all-grain and one extract.  If they both turn out thin, then you have a sanitization issue.  If the extract is ok, but the all-grain is thin, there's a mash issue.  But this is a harder solution than the others.  Could be more fun, though, brewing more is always good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-06-26T00:07:43.070" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T00:07:43.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7207" CreationDate="2012-06-23T17:52:15.387" Score="2" ViewCount="1025" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that disolved oxygen is good for yeast, and aeration is done near the time of pitching in beer making.  Does this rule hold true for bottled apple juice as it does for wort? Would apple juice be more prone to becoming stale with aeration than wort, or is it best to completely aerate juice as you would wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The juice I'm talking about would be pasturized, not fresh juice squeezed in the orchard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-06-24T13:02:38.317" LastActivityDate="2012-06-24T13:02:38.317" Title="Aerating bottled apple juice for cider" Tags="|cider|aeration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7206" CreationDate="2012-06-23T18:09:46.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you boil your wort, you are getting all that oxygen out of solution. If you are not boiling your apple juice you should have sufficent oxygen in there to conduct a good fermentation. I have done cider with bottled apple juice without oxygenating with good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2170" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T18:09:46.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7209" CreationDate="2012-06-23T18:23:40.993" Score="4" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reading websites and I'm viewing videos where people show how to wash kegs, but they never wash their gas line. I was wondering if it's necessary to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking this because I would like to use the same gas line for my keg full of beer, and sometimes use it to produce sparkling water (which doesn't required the same PSI). So, do I need to wash it every time I want to reconnect it to the keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2504" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-06-23T19:27:41.150" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T19:27:41.150" Title="Gas line : does it need to be sterilized?" Tags="|kegging|keg|co2|gas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7208" CreationDate="2012-06-23T19:20:06.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 15 years, I never have and it hasn't been a problem.  So I'd say you don't have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T19:20:06.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7211" CreationDate="2012-06-24T02:05:58.757" Score="7" ViewCount="1051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a home-brewer, but this seems like a good place to ask the question.&#xA;why are many commercial beers filtered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer unfiltered beer and I am just curious to know why they filter it in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2505" LastEditorUserId="2505" LastEditDate="2012-06-24T02:18:58.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-24T14:42:05.493" Title="What is the benefit to filtering beer?" Tags="|beer|filtering|commercial|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7210" CreationDate="2012-06-24T11:44:30.723" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's mostly to achieve a crystal clear presentation, and also because the average consumer expects no sediment in a can or bottle of beer. Also, filtering out the suspended solids improves the flavor of the beer, especially noticeable in light colored beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Craft brewers that don't filter the beer leave the yeast in suspension so the beer can condition or naturally carbonate. Commercial brewers don't do this since the beer is also pasteurized after being filtered and packaged. If the beer were left unfiltered, the pasteurization would destroy any yeast still in the beer, preventing any further aging or carbonating in the bottle. Consequently, the use of filtering also requires bottles and kegs to be force carbonated, which further reduces time to market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-06-24T14:42:05.493" LastActivityDate="2012-06-24T14:42:05.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7221" CreationDate="2012-06-25T02:50:29.783" Score="6" ViewCount="3655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a Belgian Tripel. I don't typically use a secondary fermentation. The Tripel however, is my biggest beer so far, and requires much more time. Should I transfer to a secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I have at the moment are buckets, but I'm considering a carboy purchase. Would that be necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2005" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T22:26:44.847" Title="How long can I let my fermentation go in the original bucket?" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|carboy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7212" CreationDate="2012-06-25T03:12:46.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the time (ie, don't otherwise need/want to use the bucket), you can easily leave it until it's finished fermenting; a carboy is not strictly necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest differences between bucket and (glass) carboy is oxygen permeability for long-term storage and the ability to clean, especially with &quot;bugs&quot;: souring yeast/bacteria cultures.  If you're laying something down to age for months at a time, you might want glass rather than plastic.  Plastic can also scratch in the face of mechanical cleaning (brushes, &amp;amp;c.), those scratches can then harbor bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point about &quot;secondary&quot; fermentation is often regarding autolysis of yeast, but on a homebrew scale this occurs on the order of many-many-months, and it not something to generally be concerned with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T03:12:46.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7216" CreationDate="2012-06-25T10:08:55.467" Score="1" ViewCount="1840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about investing in a keg, etc. done some reading but still have a lot of questions. I currently bottle from brew cans which fill the fermenter to 23L and comes out to about 30x 750ml bottles (22.5L).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen many different size kegs. Does it matter the size? Do you need to leave space in the keg for gas/air or is this bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example I saw a 30L keg for sale 2nd hand. Could I brew 22.5L in this 30L keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also saw 18L kegs - if I got two of these kegs could I fill each with 11L? If I got one could I fill it to the brim (18L) and bottle the remaining few litres?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2506" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T12:56:51.747" Title="What size keg to get for 23L brews?" Tags="|beer|keg|batch-size|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7217" CreationDate="2012-06-25T11:06:51.790" Score="2" ViewCount="1116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering investing in a keg, fridge, etc. I live in a warm climate and currently do secondary fermentation in the bottles in the heat. I've read that people have chest freezers to store kegs. If I start using a keg does this need to go in the fridge straight away or can I leave it in the warm until I am ready to drink it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly I brew brew cans like coopers lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2506" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T16:57:10.370" Title="Does keg secondary fermentation temperature matter?" Tags="|beer|temperature|secondary-fermentation|keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7214" CreationDate="2012-06-25T12:47:16.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ideal keg size for a 23l batch is 23l or as close as you can get above that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a larger capacity keg with no problems, but you will end up using more CO2, since you have to pressurize a larger volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using smaller kegs is also possible, but a bit of a pain since you have twice the work to do cleaning, sanitizing and filling, and again, the one half-filled keg represents a waste of of CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corny kegs are popular with homebrewers, which hold 19 liters. I used to brew UK gallon sizes (23l) but switched to the typical 5 US gallon batch (19L) when I moved over to corny kegs. Since you'll have about 3 liters left over from your usual batch, you could fill two 1.5l PET soda bottles first, with a little priming sugar, and then fill the keg afterwards. This will avoid wasting any beer from the batch or using more CO2 than you need, while also giving you a couple of bottles over, which can be handy to give to a friends, take to parties etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have place to keep the kegs chilled, and hooked up to CO2? Kegs are certainly a lot easier than bottling, but they do require the right environment (temperature and CO2 pressure) to provide a good pour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-06-25T12:56:51.747" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T12:56:51.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7215" CreationDate="2012-06-25T13:49:10.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaving beer warm for extended periods, a couple of months, will cause it to stale quicker. But leaving it for a couple of weeks to carb and condition will be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to watch out for though is that the keg should be chilled before pouring a pint, or the dispensing pressure will be too high, and you'll get a glass of foam, unless you use a very long beer line to balance the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T13:49:10.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7147" CreationDate="2012-06-25T15:38:02.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest way I can think of is to use gas laws to calculate the quantity of CO2 produced based on pressure.  It might get tricky since the greater the pressure gets, the more CO2 is dissolved in the beer, but you'd have to do that anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a closed system and measuring pressure you'll learn a couple things:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1.  How much sugar has been turned into CO2 and alcohol&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2.  How much pressure your fermenting equipment can handle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2196" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-06-25T16:45:59.013" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T16:45:59.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2012-06-25T17:02:38.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no artistic skills. I use beerlabelizer.com to create a label. Print it on normal paper. Cut the labels out. Use regular glue sticks to apply glue to the back of the paper label and fix onto the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage of this approach is that you can't put these in a cooler with ice as the label will come off. This is also an advantage because de-labeling is super easy. The labels seem to stay just fine in storage and in refrigerators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sharpie the cap for identification if I haven't applied labels yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1960" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T17:02:38.560" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7212" CreationDate="2012-06-25T17:15:01.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I routinely leave my brews in a bucket for 4 weeks. The longest I've left it in was (I think) 6 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longest I've ever heard of is a guy who forgot about his batch for 18 months. When he found it is was still basically drinkable but virtually all of the hops had oxidized out and it was watery malt water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T17:15:01.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7212" CreationDate="2012-06-25T19:21:50.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A secondary isn't required for regular strength beers, but for high gravity beers like your tripel, the conditioning time is much longer, and so a secondary is beneficial. Also, high gravity beers use about twice as much yeast as with the regular beer, so leaving on the yeast for a long time will give some yeast bite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get hold of a carboy before primary reaches 3 weeks, then that would be ideal. Second choice would be to rack to one of the buckets you already have. If you rack when gravity is still a few points above final, then fermentation will displace the air reducing the chance of oxidization from the large headspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would definitely rack a beer this big, since there is more likelihood of off flavors by not racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-06-25T22:26:44.847" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T22:26:44.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7197" CreationDate="2012-06-26T00:48:17.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about a mash out step?  Do you heat the mash to ~170 when you sparge?  Do you boil the wort immediately as it comes out of the mash tun?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be that your sparge is taking a long time, and the enzymes are continuing to convert your wort.  This would leave you with a very fermentable wort, despite the mash temperature that you used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have often suspected this on my own system, as my beers also tend to turn out drier than expected.  Up until very recently, I didn't have a separate HLT, so the wort would sit around in buckets waiting to be transferred to the boil pot (doubling as HLT).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T00:48:17.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7147" CreationDate="2012-06-26T16:12:05.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are annoy by the process of taking the sample of your beer before taking it gravity, why do you not just put your hydrometer directly into your fermenter? The reading will be a little more difficult to do and you have to be really carefull because you don't want to break it while it's in your beer. But you can keep it there and take your reading everyday. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2504" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T16:12:05.373" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7215" CreationDate="2012-06-26T16:57:10.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that your kegging process is sound, you can expect similar results from kegging as you are getting from bottling (and aging at high temperatures). When you keg, you would need to purge all oxygen from the headspace, of course. As already mentioned, the warmer the storage temperature, the more rapidly the signs of age will become. Depending on the style, those signs are not always bad, but generally so.  You indicate that you will be doing secondary fermentation in the keg.  During that process, you are asking the yeast to &quot;clean-up&quot; and there may be some off flavors from the yeast at temperatures higher than their optimal temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T16:57:10.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7228" CreationDate="2012-06-26T23:46:11.487" Score="6" ViewCount="5600" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I put some beer in a secondary vessel for medium-term condition (e.g. lagering or dry hopping), do I need to put an airlock on it or can I just close it up with a stopper or put it in a keg and seal it? Presumably the yeast are not really generating any more CO2. (Note: I'm not talking about an actual secondary fermentation with fruit or something, where the yeast will clearly be active.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T15:20:06.097" Title="Airlock required for lagering or conditioning?" Tags="|secondary|airlock|co2|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7225" CreationDate="2012-06-27T00:33:49.987" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast may still be working, and even if they aren't, CO2 may still be coming out of solution from temperature changes or agitation. Glass carboys are not meant to hold pressure, and they fail in a very dramatic and possibly dangerous way. Use an airlock for safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A keg designed to hold pressure is a fine alternative. You can even keep it under pressure so when the lagering period is done, your beer is fully carbed and ready to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T00:33:49.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="464" CreationDate="2012-06-27T02:52:01.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glue and Lamination:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most wood glues are going to be totally fine to put together a paddle. E.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://titebond.com/product.aspx?id=2ef3e95d-48d2-43bc-8e1b-217a38930fa2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Titebond II&lt;/a&gt; (a pretty ubiquitous and waterproof wood glue) is FDA approved for indirect food contact (meaning it's fine to glue together pieces that will be in contact with food) and retains plenty of its strength at mash temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood Type:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hard wood should be fine, particularly if you finish it well. Home Depot and Lowes both carry maple and oak, which would be good choices: they're sturdy and look nice. You should have no trouble finding 1x4 and 1x6 boards, which would be perfect for a mash paddle, depending on your design intent. Obviously a lumber supplier would have a greater variety, but if you're not picky about the exact species and don't need very much, it's hard to beat the convenience of the big box stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only treated wood that you should avoid is pressure-treated soft lumber, but it's usually obvious and will probably not come in the dimensions you're looking for anyway. Pressure-treated wood has sort of a green/gray color to it, and is usually sold in long 2x4s or posts. For a small sturdy project like this I would recommend hard wood anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finish:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you don't strictly need to finish the wood, I would strongly recommend it. It will make the wood easier to clean, prevent wood dust and splinters from getting in your mash, and make the wood last much longer. Unfinished wood can't really be cleaned, so plan on getting some woody taste in the mash and some mash stain on the paddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious options for finishing a wood mash paddle are a polyurethane or some sort of butcher block oil / wax. Personally I'd do several good coats of polyurethane, which will give you a hard, durable, and waterproof seal. Polyurethane is food safe (but check the label to be sure). Polyurethane comes in a range of glossy or flat finishes, although they'll all be a bit hard and glossy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Butcher block wax or some other oil rub will give the wood a more natural look, but it won't be quite as durable. You generally have to reapply these finishes periodically, since they wear off and/or soak into the wood. It's conceivable that some of the wax would come off in the mash, but they're totally safe and I'm sure it's a very small amount anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T02:52:01.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7225" CreationDate="2012-06-27T15:20:40.023" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You absolutely do not need an airlock for secondary, assuming you wait til fermentation is done.  I've sealed a carboy with a stopper many times for a secondary, although these days I usually use foil.  If the beer is still outgassing, you will have a bit more dissolved CO2 in it, but not enough to worry about the carboy exploding.  A keg also works really well and can be vented by pulling the relief valve if necessary (although it almost never is).  The best alternative, IMO, is to just not use a secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T15:20:40.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7232" CreationDate="2012-06-27T15:46:26.713" Score="20" ViewCount="17940" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5913/secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; mentions a debate about secondary fermentation. Sort of like the existence of dark matter, everything I have read about homebrewing points to there being some disagreement about secondary fermentation. However, it would be handy to me to know what both sides of the debate actually are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone sketch them for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1939" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T14:51:49.963" Title="What is the secondary fermentation debate?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7229" CreationDate="2012-06-27T17:21:50.690" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The debate is basically whether there is any benefit to the risk(s) caused by racking to a secondary fermenter after the primary fermentation has completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many reasons people rack to a secondary fermenter.  This isn't the place to discuss whether they're myths or not, but here are the reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting the beer off the trub helps it clarify&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delicate flavor ingredients that can't be added to the primary during fermentation can now be added&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting the beer off the trub helps prevent off flavors the yeast will start imparting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/68/whats-the-point-of-secondary-fermentation?rq=1&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s the point of secondary fermentation?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any passion, there are people who over complicate things to the point of failure, and that's where the real debate comes in.  Do these steps over complicate the process and simply introduce another source of risk, or is there some benefit here for certain circumstances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2196" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T17:21:50.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7229" CreationDate="2012-06-27T17:32:23.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't claim to know all the facets of all the arguments, but here's what I've garnered from what I've read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Argument for racking to secondary:&#xA;Allowing the beer to sit on the yeast cake will produce off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Argument Against:&#xA;Racking can lead to oxidation and letting the beer sit on the yeast isn't really going to do much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;argument against&quot; was made after the &quot;argument for&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caveat is if you're racking onto fruit or some other situation that necessitates actually moving the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2101" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T17:32:23.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7229" CreationDate="2012-06-27T18:05:03.420" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll simply quote part of what John Palmer said in the &quot;Ask the Experts&quot; section if the American Homebrewers Association website....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The risk inherent to any beer transfer, whether it is fermenter-to-fermenter or fermenter-to-bottles, is oxidation and staling. Any oxygen exposure after fermentation will lead to staling, and the more exposure, and the warmer the storage temperature, the faster the beer will go stale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking to a secondary fermenter used to be recommended because staling was simply a fact of life – like death and taxes. But the risk of autolysis was real and worth avoiding – like cholera. In other words, you know you are going to die eventually, but death by cholera is worth avoiding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then modern medicine appeared, or in our case, better yeast and better yeast-handling information. Suddenly, death by autolysis is rare for a beer because of two factors: the freshness and health of the yeast being pitched has drastically improved, and proper pitching rates are better understood. The yeast no longer drop dead and burst like Mr. Creosote from Monty Python’s The Meaning of Life when fermentation is complete – they are able to hibernate and wait for the next fermentation to come around. The beer has time to clarify in the primary fermenter without generating off-flavors. With autolysis no longer a concern, staling becomes the main problem. The shelf life of a beer can be greatly enhanced by avoiding oxygen exposure and storing the beer cold (after it has had time to carbonate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I, and Jamil and White Labs and Wyeast Labs, do not recommend racking to a secondary fermenter for ANY ale, except when conducting an actual second fermentation, such as adding fruit or souring. Racking to prevent autolysis is not necessary, and therefore the risk of oxidation is completely avoidable. Even lagers do not require racking to a second fermenter before lagering. With the right pitching rate, using fresh healthy yeast, and proper aeration of the wort prior to pitching, the fermentation of the beer will be complete within 3-8 days (bigger = longer). This time period includes the secondary or conditioning phase of fermentation when the yeast clean up acetaldehyde and diacetyl. The real purpose of lagering a beer is to use the colder temperatures to encourage the yeast to flocculate and promote the precipitation and sedimentation of microparticles and haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the new rule of thumb: don’t rack a beer to a secondary, ever, unless you are going to conduct a secondary fermentation.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T18:05:03.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7229" CreationDate="2012-06-27T19:05:05.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The argument only really exists among beer homebrewers, actually. Racking to secondary (and tertiary, and quaternary...) is accepted and necessary in winemaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T19:05:05.277" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2012-06-27T19:38:02.990" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I design my labels in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pixelmator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pixelmator&lt;/a&gt;. They are pretty small at 2.25&quot; x 1.25&quot; but this way I don't use too much paper. Speaking of paper I like to take grocery bags and cut them into 8.5&quot; x 11&quot; sheets, then feed them into my inkjet printer just like standard letter sized paper. Grocery bag paper has a nice texture, thickness and brown color that isn't as blindingly bright as normal printer paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like Timone mentioned, I use twine to attach around the neck of the bottle. Much nicer than scraping an adhesive label off. Although the twine loop can slide off when putting the bottle into a six-pack sleeve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick coat of polyurethane will give the labels a nice shine and keep them from getting wet in a cooler of ice. You can get a spray bottle of it at the hardware store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wMOlk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;home brew twine label&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2158" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T19:38:02.990" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-27T19:53:25.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7236" CreationDate="2012-06-28T01:10:32.547" Score="5" ViewCount="3413" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day, I was with my friend getting ready to bottle a batch of modified cream ale (our second homebrew so far). We were using an auto-siphon to transfer beer from fermenter to the bottling kettle, however at some point I had to use only a hose to transfer (don't ask). So I took a mouthful of vodka, gurgled in my throat vigorously, spit out, then pulled on the hose to start pulling the beer out of the fermenter. Not being cautious, a little bit of beer ended up in my mouth, and before I managed to swallow, I accidentally spit it out straight into the kettle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we had a good laugh about it and proceeded with bottling, but I kept on wondering whether this event can alter the beer in the end. I will know for sure what happened as soon as I open the first bottle after conditioning (will add updates here). Did anybody have any similar experience or know how any mouth or stomach borne bacteria may affect the beer during conditioning. My relief is that the beer is quite alcoholic (7.9% ABV), is quite hoppy, and has 1 oz of grated ginger in last 15 minutes of boil, so hopefully the flavor won't change much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a 27-year old, healthy, male human.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: We just had one after a week of bottle conditioning. It is excellent. Can't wait to have some after few more weeks of conditioning. Thanks all for great answers, especially the siphoning tips, it will sure improve my brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2397" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T16:33:27.243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T16:33:27.243" Title="Can a little human spit spoil fermented beer?" Tags="|bottling|contamination|bacteria|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7235" CreationDate="2012-06-28T02:17:47.937" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh, if only you were 28, then I'd all be fine.  Just kidding. I'd be surprised if this accident noticeably affects the beer, regardless of your age or state of health. Beer is a pretty unpleasant place for most bacteria, and that combined with the yeast activity in the bottle that scavenges any available oxygen, and the bacteriostatic nature of the beta acids in the hops helps ensure the bacteria do not multiply and affect the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to avoid doing this again, then next time, use a small piece of garden hose slipped over the end of your siphon hose. This avoids your mouth coming into contact with anything that touches the beer. If you do accidentally suck in some beer, just grip the siphon hose an inch or two down, and pour out that inch or two of beer. Since you've maintained the siphon, you can then lower the end as normal to start the siphon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T02:17:47.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7235" CreationDate="2012-06-28T03:48:23.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right before bottling, the beer is really hard to contaminate. First because there is alchool in it, but mostly because there is not a lot of sugar left in your liquid. And you don't need to rinse your mouth with vodka : I always used a normal siphon, and never had problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2504" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T03:48:23.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7246" CreationDate="2012-06-28T04:36:17.673" Score="6" ViewCount="3071" Body="&lt;p&gt;Planning to do my first all-grain BIAB. If miss my target gravity after mashing, how do I figure out how much extract to add before I start the boil in order to reach that OG? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine pre-boil is the ideal time to add it because adding it after the boil could cause problems. I'd like to know how to calculate the amount of extract needed including water volumes. I'd prefer to use DME because I'm guessing I won't need a ton and once you open an LME container/bag it doesn't stay fresh too long. If there's a calculator for this online, links would be cool. I also have BeerSmith, though I haven't learned how to use all of it's features yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2231/didnt-hit-gravity-how-to-calculate-how-much-malt-extract-to-add-to-the-ferment&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, except that one is asking about post-boil, and I'm interested in pre-boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T12:47:05.373" Title="How do you calculate how much extract to add if you don't hit your target gravity pre-boil?" Tags="|all-grain|extract|specific-gravity|original-gravity|biab|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7238" CreationDate="2012-06-28T13:10:54.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are some easier ways of doing this, but I enjoy doing my brew calculations by hand! You need to figure out the total gravity &quot;points&quot; of your wort. After you've pulled the bag and rinsed it, take a hydrometer reading. You will most likely need to correct for temperature, most hydrometer's are calibrated to 15C, by 20C they are off by 1 point so at 70C it will be very inaccurate. I recommend cooling a sample as much as possible (I put it in my freezer) and then using a correction factor if it is not 15C. There are several sites online that will correct for you, or give you the correction factor. (http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixA.html) Once you have a reading on your hydrometer, let's say 1.035, you need the total volume of pre-boil wort. Let's assume 6.5 gallons. Multiply &quot;35&quot; (your hydrometer reading without decimals, called gravity points) by the volume, 6.5 gal to give you 228 total points. The total points of your brew will stay the same until you add the yeast. So by figuring our what your target pre-boil SG is, you can figure out how much your off by. Example, your shooting for a final, post boil volume of 5 gallons of wort at 1.055, or 275 points. By simpley dividing your brews total points by the pre-boil voume (6.5 gal) you know what your pre-boil SG should be (42.3 pts or 1.042). So, lets say your BIAB, pre-boil, comes in at 1.035 rather then 1.042. Multiply 35 gravity points, by the volume, 6.5 gal. to give you 228 total points. Subtract your target points 275, by 228 to give you a difference of 47 points. DME yields 40 pts, per pound, per gallon. About 1.2 pounds (544g) in 6.5 gallons will give you about 47 extra gravity points, helping you meet your target. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T13:10:54.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7235" CreationDate="2012-06-28T13:22:53.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's true, the bacterial cultures in your mouth would not be &quot;used-to&quot; the high alcohol content, and most importantly the acidic environment of your beer. However, make no mistake about the fact that you did contaminate your beer!!!! You will most likely see no difference in taste, however you may find that the beer doesn't age as well, the storage time may be diminished. By that I mean, you might not be able to keep this beer for longer then 6 months (you might be fine too). I siphon with my mouth, because I feel it's the best overall method! All the gizmo's to aid your siphoning, waste beer, are hard to clean and are another item to sanitize. I start the siphon and allow a few dribbles into a &quot;run off pail&quot;. Then I sanitize the end and sides of the tube using 70% isopropyl alcohol, while maintaining the siphon. It works for me! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-07-01T19:34:23.583" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T19:34:23.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7229" CreationDate="2012-06-28T13:35:54.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can offer only my personal experience from almost 10 years ago when me and my friends first started brewing when we were 16. We added glucose to the beer before sealing the bottles to create a sort of second fermentation. We only did this because we had some really poor materials and equipment to start with and it made the beer taste genuinely better, have more CO2 and feel less like the cheapest possible brew that it was. But we stopped doing this later because it was simply unnecessary - higher quality beer tasted better without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2515" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T13:35:54.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7249" CreationDate="2012-06-28T19:47:14.400" Score="1" ViewCount="2043" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to carbonate several sankey kegs, but the keg couplers have the liquid line open, so if I apply CO2 to them, the beer will come out if I don't have a serving line connected, I only have 2 serving lines, but I want to carbonate all 6 sankey kegs at the same time, how can I block that line? or is there another thing I need to buy/get to close that line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2460" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-07-01T00:32:29.737" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T00:32:29.737" Title="How can I seal off the liquid line on a sankey keg to allow force carbonation?" Tags="|carbonation|keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2012-06-29T08:08:42.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time I get my labels from beerlabelcreator.com. They have some cool designs, and it takes just a couple of minutes to create a nice label and save it as a printable PDF with 2x3 or 3x4 labels per sheet, depending on bottle size. Use glue stick or milk to attach to bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2517" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T08:08:42.753" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-29T08:08:42.753" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="726" CreationDate="2012-06-29T16:33:17.173" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nitrous oxide is a non-flammable oxidizer. If you've ever seen someone blow nitrous through a cigarette, the ember gets a bit bigger and brighter, but no bursts of flames occur and they dont explode. It also has a long shelf life, and can be put to good use even when not brewing ;) i live in douthern california and i can easily get 90+% pure n2o for $4.75 a pound (food grade needs to be at least 90% pure)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2519" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T16:33:17.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7238" CreationDate="2012-06-29T16:55:42.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(TOG - GR * (BV/FV)) / (45/FV)&lt;/strong&gt; = lbs of DME to add pre-boil to hit target OG&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TOG = Target Original Gravity in Points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GR = Gravity Reading in Points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BV = Boil Volume (This is what you are taking your reading from)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FV = Final Volume (i.e. 5 gallons)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;45 = # Gravity Points you get per lb of DME per gallon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So lets say you are making a 5 gallon smash beer with 10lbs of 2-row, you estimate your target OG by assuming 80% efficiency, and after sparging you got 6 gallons of wort in your brew pot. Equation would be...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(59 - 37 * (6/5)) / (45/5)&#xA;(59 - 37 * 1.2) / 9&#xA;(59 - 44) / 9 = 1.666&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the above scenario, you would toss in 1 and 2/3 pounds of Light DME pre-boil to ensure you hit your target gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to provide a link to a calculator that does this equation for you, but I am not aware of one that is out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastEditorUserId="302" LastEditDate="2012-07-01T11:43:57.203" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T11:43:57.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7238" CreationDate="2012-06-29T19:30:36.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do this all of the time.  And it involves no math (that I have to do, anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, the day before (or sooner), I have my recipe in the brewing software.  I make sure everything looks good (the pre-boil gravity, the post-boil gravity, volumes, etc).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After sparging, I take a pre-boil gravity and volume.  If I'm ok on volume and low enough on gravity, I run downstairs and open the recipe in the brewing software. &lt;em&gt;I change the mash efficiency (or something) to make the receipe look like what I ended-up getting for my gravity.&lt;/em&gt;  I then add DME to the recipe in various amounts (trial and error) until I get back to the target pre-boil gravity.  And a positive side-effect is that now your recipe software is more in line with your equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-07-01T00:38:49.883" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T00:38:49.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7190" CreationDate="2012-06-29T22:26:15.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Post answer selection answer here, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a keg, tie floss to the bag per previous answers, push the bag in with 1/2 the keg height's worth of floss, and seal it up.  Then turn the keg upside down for a while - the bag will float up right in the middle.  After a while it will be sufficiently beer-logged to just sink on it's own, and you can flip the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="801" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T22:26:15.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7242" CreationDate="2012-06-30T17:06:03.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You simply need to stop the flow out of that end of the coupler.  Pretty much anything you dream up that will connect with 7/8&quot; 14 thread will work.  If you have a local fitting place, ask for a cap nut, or acorn nut with that threading and you will be good to go.  A search on eBay for &quot;7/8 14 nut&quot; had a few that fit the bill for under $5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note of safety: If you just cap the end of the coupler, be sure to bleed out the pressure before taking off the nut.  The CO2 in solution will remain, and you wont have a projectile coming for you when you take off the cap.  Also some Teflon tape will ensure a good fit and will stop the nut from seizing to the coupler&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want something more commercial, and can pony up some money, there are a series of ball valves that are made to do exactly what you are looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegs.com/products/shut-off-ball-valve/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kegs.com/products/shut-off-ball-valve/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2135" LastActivityDate="2012-06-30T17:06:03.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7229" CreationDate="2012-07-01T14:51:49.963" Score="8" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                            Use Secondary Fermentation         Do Not Use Secondary &#xA;                                                               Fermentation&#xA;--------------------      ---------------------              ----------------------------&#xA;&#xA;Oxydation Risk            Increased risk of oxydation.       No increased risk of &#xA;                          This occurs whenever beer is       oxydation.&#xA;                          transferred.  It can be &#xA;                          minimized, and the effect on &#xA;                          the final product may be small &#xA;                          or noticable.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Contamination Risk        Increased risk of                  No increased risk of &#xA;                          contamination through contact      contamination.&#xA;                          with additional equipement and &#xA;                          air.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Brewing Workload          Increased workload to execute      No increase in brewing &#xA;                          the transfer and prepare/clean     workload.&#xA;                          another vessel.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Additional Equipment      Increased expenditure on           Reduced expediture required on &#xA;                          fermentation vessels is            fermentation vessels.&#xA;                          required.  This is a bad thing &#xA;                          if you have to buy it, but a &#xA;                          good thing if you are selling &#xA;                          equipment.  If I sold &#xA;                          fermenters, I would leave the &#xA;                          transfer to secondary step in &#xA;                          my version of the recipe.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Computed Efficiency       Slight reduction in brewhouse      No additional reduction in &#xA;                          efficiency due to the losses       brewhouse efficiency.&#xA;                          associated with the additional &#xA;                          transfer.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Autolysis Risk            Reduced risk of old yeast          Increased risk of old yeast &#xA;                          imparting unwanted flavors         imparting unwanted flavors. &#xA;                          from autolysis.                    According to Palmer &quot;death by &#xA;                                                              autolysis is rare for a beer &#xA;                                                              because of two factors: the &#xA;                                                              freshness and health of the &#xA;                                                              yeast being pitched has &#xA;                                                              drastically improved, and &#xA;                                                              proper pitching rates are &#xA;                                                              better understood.&quot;  He &#xA;                                                              continues &quot;...they are able to &#xA;                                                              hibernate and wait for the &#xA;                                                              next fermentation to come &#xA;                                                              around. The beer has time to &#xA;                                                              clarify in the primary &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Clarity of the Beer       Increased clarity may be           The highest clarity may not be &#xA;                          attained.  Less care is            attained.  Although with &#xA;                          required at packaging time to      appropriate handling, &#xA;                          assure yeast and sediment are      packaging from primary can &#xA;                          not packaged.                      produce highly clear beers.  &#xA;                                                             In general though, more care &#xA;                                                             is required at packaging time &#xA;                                                             to assure yeast and sediment &#xA;                                                             are not packaged.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Ability to Add            Allows for the brewer to rack      Process to add fruit or other &#xA;Delicate Flavor           onto fruit.  Allows for the        flavor ingredients to the &#xA;Ingredients or Fruit      brewer to add flavor               primary may be problematic.&#xA;                          ingredients that would &#xA;                          otherwise be inhibited by &#xA;                          having a thick layer of yeast &#xA;                          / sediment.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T14:51:49.963" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7238" CreationDate="2012-07-02T12:47:05.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the Beer Calculus tool over on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.Hopville.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hopville.com&lt;/a&gt;. I start off my all-grains with my ingredients and about 80% efficiency for most beers (a little lower for wheat beers though). As I am boiling my wort, I collect a sample at the point where I've got about 5 gallons, near the end of the boil. I chill that sample down and test it's gravity. If the gravity of the sample is lower than my target gravity on Hopville, then I know my efficiency is down, so I'll turn down my efficiency setting on the recipe until the projected gravity matches the sample's gravity. From there, I can add back to the recipe some LDME until the target gravity is where I want it to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I've done this, the measured gravity of the final wort going into the carboy is pretty much exactly the gravity that Hopville predicted once I add in the extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T12:47:05.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-02T12:47:40.163" Score="2" ViewCount="5993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a creme ale 10 days ago and I racked to the secondary after 4 days fermenting( don't ask ) . I tasted it yesterday and it taste very bitter with little to no flavor. When I transferred it to secondary it was a pretty golden color. Now it's a dark brown color with a oil film on top. I need help!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2524" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T17:50:08.107" Title="What is the oily film on the top of my kit beer" Tags="|beer|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7256" CreationDate="2012-07-02T13:42:04.573" Score="3" ViewCount="2015" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend and I recently threw an IPA together with the hops and grains we had on hand. We had 8oz of Cascade whole leaf hops lying around, so to spread the love, we decided to throw a couple ounces into the mash tun and mashed for 60 minutes at 155F with the rest of the grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer has since been bottled, and is quite enjoyable. But I am left clueless as to what, if anything, mashing with 2 ounces of Cascades gave us in our final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will mashing with hops do for your beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T03:59:30.167" Title="What to expect from &quot;Mash&quot; Hopping?" Tags="|hops|mashing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7255" CreationDate="2012-07-02T14:18:51.010" Score="7" ViewCount="1339" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the method chosen to carbonate your beer impact taste? For example, forced Co2 vs bottle vs natural, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2525" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-07-02T15:31:51.733" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T15:33:16.173" Title="Does carbonation method impact beer flavor?" Tags="|carbonation|taste|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7254" CreationDate="2012-07-02T15:09:33.047" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not in my experience.  I did a test where I used corn sugar, cane sugar, brown sugar, honey and DME (maybe even something else) and also force carbonated a split batch.  After 2 months of conditioning, none of the tasters in a blind test could distinguish one from the other, and no one exhibited a preference for any one method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T15:09:33.047" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7253" CreationDate="2012-07-02T15:15:20.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experimented with this several times.  IMO, you get nothing detectable from it.  An all mash hopped beer that calculated to over 130 IBU measured only in the mid 20s.  There was no detectable flavor or aroma from the mash hops.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T15:15:20.700" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7254" CreationDate="2012-07-02T15:33:16.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common methods of carbonating your beer will not offer differing flavor profiles, but there are exceptions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When force carbing, your only addition to the beer is the gas itself, CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using corn sugar, your addition to the beer is 100% fermentable, so the CO2 gas your looking for is created, with no sweetness (or flavor) left behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception: If you instead use an addition which is NOT 100% fermentable. A good example of this would be Honey, which comes in many varieties (i.e. Orange Blossom). Your Honey addition will not be entirely fermented, and there will be a mild residual sweetness and honey flavor profile left behind. Now, whether or not this impacts your beer's flavor profile as a whole, will entirely depend on the beer being made. You won't notice any real impact on your beer's flavor profile unless your Final Gravity is close to 1.010 (Assuming you have not made any adjunct boil/fermantation sugar additions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T15:33:16.173" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7261" CreationDate="2012-07-02T16:58:51.713" Score="2" ViewCount="1419" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a new boil kettle with a stainless ball valve attached with a weldless bulkhead fitting, and a stainless barb connected to the NPT outlet of the ball valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the cleaning procedure for the weldless fitting and the NPT connection? Do I need to remove every fitting and clean and sanitize each part? Or can I just run some hot PBW through the valve after use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I'd prefer to not disassemble everything and have to re-tape the NPT joint, but obviously I don't want to set myself up for an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: @Dale made good point about the heat from the boil sanitize everything. But what about NPT fittings that are downstream? E.g. most plate chillers, pumps, etc. have NPT fittings. Do they need to be disassembled and sanitize before a batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="1736" LastEditDate="2012-07-22T14:49:04.197" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T14:49:04.197" Title="Cleaning &amp; sanitizing NPT and weldless fittings" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7258" CreationDate="2012-07-02T17:09:27.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There would be very little need to remove and clean that connection on a boil kettle.  In general, none of the boil kettle needs to be sanitized. Even if you chill in the kettle, your kettle and everything connected to it has been sitting at about 212F for an hour, so any organisms are long since dead. Thats not to say that you shouldn't flush out your ball valve every brew, but taking it all apart, especially the threaded fittings would be overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for downstream equipment, that is a little less settled.  I run boiling wort through my reverse flow chiller (while no cooling water present) and plug it at the outflow point.  I do this 15 minutes before the end of boil.  So my chiller sits above 180 for 15 minutes. And immediatly after chilling, the unit gets a full-force blast bothways from the garden hose and then gets stored with sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-07-07T03:57:00.920" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T03:57:00.920" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7252" CreationDate="2012-07-02T20:09:14.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes will see a very slight shimmer of oil on the surface of a beer, kinda just like a little rainbow effect when looking down from above. If your &quot;oil film on top&quot; sounds like that, then you are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the color, the beer went from gold to brown because the yeast are dropping out. You'd think a beer with a lot of yeast in suspension would be darker, but the opposite is true. Since the yeasties reflect light, they make a beer look light (albeit cloudy) before they floculate out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, 10 days is WAY too young for a beer to be sampled for flavor. You'll always have weird flavors at that age that disappear as the beer conditions. Sometimes they taste bitter, sometimes they taste &quot;sweaty&quot; or dirty. Don't worry, relax, drink a different homebrew, and then come back and take another sample in 2 weeks. Don't touch it before then. Seriously, don't. I'll come hit your hand with the mash paddle if you try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T20:09:14.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7258" CreationDate="2012-07-02T21:06:31.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the boil, keeping it clean is more relevant than keeping it sterile/sanitary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 20 gallon kettles and sanitizing those would be a pain - and fortunately it's not necessary. I don't sanitize any equipment that can come into contact with boiling wort, neither the boil kettle, chiller, pumps or anything else that's downstream from the kettle. There's simply no need to since pumping near-boiling wort through the system for 5 minutes kills any organisms. Most spoilage organisms are killed above 75C/170F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do clean the equipment from time to time, usually by pumping PBW through the system. I also take apart the pumps once in a while in case any grain has become stuck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, everything after the chiller - the fermentor and airator - is sanitized, since that doesn't come into contact with the boiling wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T21:06:31.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7264" CreationDate="2012-07-03T05:28:10.230" Score="5" ViewCount="2169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to brew a California common &quot;steam&quot; beer. I will be using a bottom fermenting lager yeast, specifically Wyeast 2112 California Lager. This is intended for a warmer fermentation, up to 68 degrees(F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what will happen if I ferment at 70 degrees? Alternatively, I could move it outside, which would lower the average temperature, yet introduce far more variability. Bad idea? Or should I just give up and find some ale yeast? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2005" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T16:42:04.950" Title="Temperature for fermenting a hybrid (california common)" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|lager|california-common|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7253" CreationDate="2012-07-03T05:35:19.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have tried this with our pilsener and combined it with previous batch of the same pilsener without mash hop. The bitternes was smoother and it has very nice compact aroma. Maybe just a placebo effect for us, but we gave it to our friends and the result was the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T05:35:19.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7262" CreationDate="2012-07-03T13:36:49.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermenting just a few degrees above a yeast strains optimum temp will not generate detrimental effects, but you could lose out on the bread and butter a particular yeast strain provides. 2112 from Wyeast can stop providing lager characteristics once the fermentation temp has surpassed 65F. With a 70F ambient temp, and keeping in mind that when fermenting your beer's temp will increase 1-2F, that puts you at 71-72F. I would say you are defeating the purpose of using 2112 at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would highly encourage you not to ferment outside. Unless you got a cooler large enough to fit your fermenter, in WI you would be talking temp variations of 20-30F throughout the day. This is not good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to get a different yeast, I would suggest making a 'different' beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, I would explore ways to control your fermentation temp indoors. One way to do this is to use a wash tub (or a 'keg' bucket), place your fermenter inside, and fill the rest of it up with ~60F water. The water will not only keep your fermenter cool, but act as a heat sink so your fermentation temp will be very slow to fluctuate in the 70F environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T13:36:49.887" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7266" CreationDate="2012-07-03T17:09:18.513" Score="6" ViewCount="7066" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my first kegs - a couple used, reconditioned corny kegs from beveragefactory.com, still smelling like soda (yay). I've been reading up on the process and it seems like it's a best practice to replace the poppets, along with the O-rings. Wish I knew that before I made the order, or I would have gotten those too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several types of poppets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I identify the the type of poppet I need for my keg?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also how to I remove and replace them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a couple pages that list some different types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=index&amp;amp;cPath=3_14&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Poppets from CHI Co.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/home_brew/kegs/index.shtml?pageNum_rsRecord=1&amp;amp;o=1&amp;amp;i=24&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Poppets from beverage factory&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also any recommendations on other cheap places to get the poppets would be great. eBay seems like it might be a way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ball lock Pepsi kegs, and the lids say &lt;em&gt;Corco&lt;/em&gt; on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tops of my kegs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wfRDB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;corny keg tops&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T16:04:17.530" Title="How do I identify the type of poppet I need for a corny keg?" Tags="|kegging|corny-keg|kegs|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7265" CreationDate="2012-07-03T21:21:02.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I imagine the safest bet is to unscrew one of the posts and get the same kind of poppet as the one you've already got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell just looking at the top of the keg, so don't take this as certainty, but those keg posts look like firestone posts. I have pepsi kegs, with firestone posts, and use poppet nr. 1 from CHI. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also narrow it down by elimination. On the CHI page for #2, it says that #1 is a cheaper alternative, so we rule that out. I'm guessing you don't have a plastic insert, which rules out #3 and #4. You'll see immediately from looking at the poppet in your own kegs if it has long legs. I'm guessing not, ruling out #5 and #6. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-07-03T21:26:43.463" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T21:26:43.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-04T02:44:42.577" Score="3" ViewCount="8335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for recipes for cherry vishnick and most of them involve just putting the cherries into a jar of vodka for several weeks. I'd been looking for a recipe that involves fermentation. I found one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://pragmaticattic.wordpress.com/2009/07/19/homemade-sour-cherry-brandy-visinata-or-vishniak/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://pragmaticattic.wordpress.com/2009/07/19/homemade-sour-cherry-brandy-visinata-or-vishniak/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part that involves fermentation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put 2 cups of cherries in a really large jar with a cup of sugar. Do not pit the cherries, she warned, because the pits are critical to the fermentation process. Let the fruit and sugar ferment for 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this before? I'm thinking about doing this but I'm concerned that just putting cherries into water with sugar could easily get mouldy. Should I add some yeast too, to ensure that it ferments correctly? I'm guessing this recipe depends on wild yeast but I've never had any luck with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm trying this out. After about a week, the sugar had drawn out all of the moisture of the cherries so now the wrinkly cherries are floating in this thick, pinkish syrup. I hadn't expected it to go as fast as it did - it probably went so fast because it's been unusually warm in the apartment this week. There's a very slight &amp;quot;sharpness&amp;quot; to the smell which &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be the product of fermentation, but the taste is very sweet and I can't taste any alcohol. When I opened the jar today, it sounded like there was a bit of gas escaping. I might let it sit in the fridge for the second week, before I add the vodka.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Update 2&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am making it again this summer (2013), and this time I am &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; certain there is some kind of natural fermentation taking place. There are many tiny bubbles all along the edge of the jar, at the top of where the cherries are. The bubbles only started appearing after about 90% of the sugar was dissolved. There's a distinctive sound of pressure being released when I open the lid on the jar, and it smells like it's fermenting (but not in a bad way). I think this time I will wait until the bubbles stop forming before I add the vodka, but I'm wondering if there's any way to estimate (based on the amount of sugar and sour cherries) how much alcohol is going to be produced by this natural fermentation...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2018-06-22T21:51:39.957" Title="Cherry vishnick" Tags="|fruit|liquor|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7265" CreationDate="2012-07-04T20:45:58.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may not work for every keg, but I've had great success with &quot;universal fit&quot; poppets on my Cornelius and Firestone kegs. They take the guessing game out of finding an OEM part by picture on a website or catalog. Here's an example, this is one that I've used. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/product_p/unipoppet.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/product_p/unipoppet.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T20:45:58.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7235" CreationDate="2012-07-05T09:51:43.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it isn't done post fermentation, there is a style of beer that requires a little human spit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's called Chicha &amp;amp; the spit is used when chewing to convert the starch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the BrewMasters episode linked on this page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://dsc.discovery.com/tv/brew-masters/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://dsc.discovery.com/tv/brew-masters/&lt;/a&gt; or the Wikipedia article here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicha&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicha&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T09:51:43.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7258" CreationDate="2012-07-05T10:09:13.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;no, you do not need to disassemble your pot. just clean, rinse, dry and store until next use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T10:09:13.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7272" CreationDate="2012-07-05T19:14:45.097" Score="5" ViewCount="4971" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working up a recipe based on the Deschutes Black Butte Porter clone recipe from &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/545&quot;&gt;The Jamil Show podcast&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their recipe calls for both English and American chocolate malt. I'm having a hard time finding information about the difference between the two varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two closest LHBS's to me only carry a single &quot;chocolate malt&quot;, without an indication of origin, but given that I live in Seattle I expect it's the American malt. When I asked one of the shopkeepers about the difference he didn't know and couldn't find any relevant information on his bookshelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only source of info on the difference I have is that having &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/1246737&quot;&gt;plugged the recipe into Hopville&lt;/a&gt;, the English chocolate comes up with PPG of 24, and the unmarked (assumed American) chocolate comes up as 34. My assumption, therefore, is that the American version has more starches that will convert and is possibly roasted less than the English version. But I'm just guessing at that, and it doesn't tell me much about the difference anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to just substitute the American malt for the English malt. It's small enough quantities that it probably won't make a huge difference, but it would still be nice to know more about the English malt and if there is a better substitution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastEditorUserId="1688" LastEditDate="2012-07-05T19:26:13.370" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T17:19:19.363" Title="What's the difference between English chocolate malt and American chocolate malt?" Tags="|malt|specialty-malt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7271" CreationDate="2012-07-06T16:55:32.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;English chocolate malt provides color with more smoothness and less roast character than typical US chocolate malt. Brewery.org says this on it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewery.org/library/Malt101.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;malt 101&lt;/a&gt; page&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chocolate Malt - ( Brown malt) 400 L&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;British Chocolate malt is ideal&#xA;  for British Porters and Brown or Mild Ales and even Stouts. It's a&#xA;  little darker than domestic Chocolate malt yet it has a slightly&#xA;  smoother character in the roast flavor and aroma profiles. Highly&#xA;  recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T16:55:32.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-06T19:44:53.507" Score="5" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rebelbrewer.com/shoppingcart/products/Crisp-Chocolate-Malt-%28by-the-ounce%29.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crisp&lt;/a&gt; carries a 630L Chocolate malt, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rebelbrewer.com/shoppingcart/products/Munton%27s-Chocolate-Malt-%28by-the-ounce%29.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Munton's&lt;/a&gt; carries one that's 385L.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are UK maltsters, but (not having actually tasted them) I assume that they taste quite different, even though they are both from the UK and both named &quot;Chocolate Malt&quot;.   Is that a safe assumption?   Is the only way to know to get some of each and taste and brew with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a recipe only states &quot;Chocolate Malt&quot;, how can I know which to buy (especially if I have to mail-order my grain, and won't have a chance to taste it before purchase)?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-07-07T02:11:41.413" LastActivityDate="2012-07-08T10:58:28.620" Title="Is level of roast indicative of flavor contributions?" Tags="|flavor|malt|color|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7273" CreationDate="2012-07-07T22:36:10.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, darker malts have more concentrated flavor, since the darker compounds created in Maillard reactions and/or caramelization (pyrolysis) and carbonization at high temperatures have a stronger taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, although color is a significant indicator, it's only a one dimensional indicator, and doesn't capture all the details of flavor. For example, compare a crystal malt and roasted malt of the same color. With the crystal, conversion of the sugars produces more caramelization, leading to the series of sugar-derived flavors (caramel, toffee, raisin) that we see with crystal malts, while roasted regular malts produce bread, biscuit, coffee, and increasing levels of roastedness. Another example of flavor differences with same color is Carafa malts, which come in regular and dehusked, both producing the same amount of color, but different flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to know for sure how a given malt will taste is to brew a small tea from the steeped crushed malts and sample. While it's possible to get a general idea of a recipe by looking at the ingredients, to take it to the next level requires a pilot brew in order to fine tune the recipe to the specific ingredients, the equipment and process used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, the more detailed the recipe, the easier it is to pair ingredients from the recipe with what is available, or that substitutions can be made. In the case of a recipe that simply asks for Chocolate malt, then one hopes that the quantity is just a few ounces so the flavor impact is low, allowing any chocolate malt to be used. In larger quantities, you could try to refine the recipe from knowledge of how the final beer tastes, taking into account the ingredients you have available. If this isn't possible, then you may simply have to brew, and accept that this may not be exactly on target, requiring a few tweaks and a second attempt. It's not uncommon for brewers to tweak and brew a recipe 5 or more times in order to specifically hit the target they are looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T22:36:10.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7273" CreationDate="2012-07-08T10:58:28.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will not taste the same.  Its like comparing pale chocolate (200L) to black patent (500+L).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are indeed a range of chocolate malts out there, especially of the English variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use brewing software or a color calculator online to help match it up.&#xA;If the recipe you want to brew also has SRM along with its supposed OG, FG etc etc, fill in the recipe into a calculator.  Then swap the different colored chocolate malts. The one with the closest predicted SRM is the one the recipe was likely made with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, in general chocolate malt is generically 350-400L if you have nothing else to go on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-07-08T10:58:28.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7278" CreationDate="2012-07-09T13:23:01.603" Score="3" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have my grain in air tight containers that I store inside. I would like to move them out to the garage which gets very hot. (100 degree summer days are common).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will the heat negatively effect the storage of the grain?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T14:44:25.663" Title="Storing Grain in a Hot Garage?" Tags="|storage|grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7277" CreationDate="2012-07-09T14:44:25.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grain, and foodstuffs in general should be stored in a cool, dry area, since the warm temperature can increase the rate of staling. It depends upon how long the grain will be around for. If you can use it up within 6 months then I doubt you would notice much change, especially if it's stored in a sealed container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T14:44:25.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7285" CreationDate="2012-07-10T03:34:31.050" Score="3" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard several fruit beer podcast and they all come to the same conclusion, 1/3 - 1/4 in the primary and the other portion in the secondary (after fermentation). but I was wondering what would happen if I made a somewhat peach cider then blended it with a porter? am I in for trouble or do I have a good thing ahead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T14:11:44.037" Title="I'm looking to put together a peach porter" Tags="|porter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7393" CreationDate="2012-07-10T04:31:08.397" Score="2" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Berliner Weisse going, the yeast out-paced the lacto (WLP 630). fermentation happened quick (1.030 O.G.) maybe a day. Due to a busy schedule and lazyness it sat on the yeast for 6 weeks, and still had no detectable &quot;sour&quot;. I racked it off the yeast into a container(6GL.) previously filled (from the Pepsi Bottling facility, with a couple drops of fluid and a very detectable aroma) with Sierra Mist syrup. Then two weeks later added a vial of white labs straight lacto. I did not take a gravity after the transfer but coming from the primary it was 1.010. It has now been a week since I pitched the lacto and it now has a &quot;layer&quot; on top and a few odd white chunks floating around (solid looking like wax not spores or airy looking, is this a lacto thing or a contamination thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-07-10T12:15:49.913" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T20:01:49.903" Title="Berliner Weisse on Sierra Mist syrup?" Tags="|berliner-weisse|lactobacillus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-10T12:24:12.980" Score="3" ViewCount="1012" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would the very small amount of oil that is added to store raisins cause a problem with basic wine recipes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to make a Strawberry + Raisin recipe but noticed that all the available raisins in ASDA have vegetable oil in the ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking, after steeping the strawberries and raisins in hot water the oil should float and could be skimmed off, before adding the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2540" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2012-07-10T14:35:20.973" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T14:35:20.973" Title="Raisins in basic wine recipe" Tags="|wine|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7280" CreationDate="2012-07-10T13:36:38.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll definitely make beer if you follow the process above, so in that sense you're definitely not in for trouble.  However, I'd be careful mixing &quot;peach&quot; and &quot;porter&quot;.  The flavors don't sound natural together, but I've been surprised before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should test it out before you commit the whole batch.  Try taking a small sample of your beer after fermentation has slowed.  Mix this with a small sample of the peach cider, and see if you like it.  If you do, you have a good thing ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, consider adding all the fruit to the secondary.  I did this with my only fruit beer (a Strawberry Wheat), and it turned out fantastic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2531" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T13:36:38.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7282" CreationDate="2012-07-10T13:56:48.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had a problem with it (come to think of it, I've never bothered to check if my raisins were processed with oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not advise pre-boiling the raisins (or the strawberries!) as you are probably going to lose a signficant amount of tannins and other compounds that are desirable in your wine. That's why you use them after all. If you are concerned about infection or wild yeasts you can use campden tablets 12-24 hours prior to pitching. In my experience, though, all that's necessary is covering the fruit with boiling water, let it steep and cool for 12 hours or so (adding pectic enzyme if necessary), then strain and pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T13:56:48.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7280" CreationDate="2012-07-10T14:11:44.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are basically veering towards the land of a Black Velvet made with cider (1/2 Guinness, 1/2 Cider) &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_and_Tan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_and_Tan&lt;/a&gt;, so I don't think trouble is necessarily on it's way. I have done this with stouts and porters in the past and found them to be enjoyable. Instead of brewing it all together...make a really good peach cider and a really good porter. Once complete and kegged/bottled, mix together in a glass just as you would a Black Velvet. This way you can modify the ratio between the two as you see fit, or if it tastes terrible, never mix them together ever again. Plus, 2 batches is always better than one. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T14:11:44.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7289" CreationDate="2012-07-10T18:34:40.683" Score="9" ViewCount="4290" Body="&lt;p&gt;So last night I checked on my porter, 48 hours on fermentation with Wyeast 1968, bubbling away happily. My ferm chamber is a small chest freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got a blowoff tube running from the top of the bucket down to a quart or so of StarSan (leftovers from brew day). The sanitizer foams up, of course, and with all the bubbling and krausen coming down the tube a nasty pool of brown gunk had formed on the floor of the freezer. I grabbed a rag and reached down to mop it up...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's when I nearly died. My sinuses screamed in pain and I had to jerk my head out of the freezer. There was a knife-sharp effect on my nose by something in the air in the freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't say it's a bad smell, per se. There wasn't really a scent. It's that my nose hurt. A lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to clean up the mess by pinching my nose shut before diving in, but man, what an experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was that &quot;smell&quot;? Was it just CO2 buildup in the closed chest and my nose was reacting to a complete lack of oxygen? Could I possibly have an infection, in my beer or in my nose? Any good theories here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T19:02:07.013" Title="Something in the fermentation chamber made my nose hurt" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7286" CreationDate="2012-07-10T18:44:10.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, it was more than likely CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T18:44:10.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7286" CreationDate="2012-07-10T18:50:41.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never experienced a &quot;knife-sharp&quot; smell, but I'm guessing it was just CO2. Maybe that was your brain's way of telling you that you were going to suffocate unless you get some fresh air &lt;em&gt;pronto&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breweries often use large 55-gallon drums half-filled with water as their blowoff tube airlock, and on more than one brewery tour I've heard the guide say that people will stick their heads in the bubbling drum to get a good whiff of the beer and will pass out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt you'd have a wild-running infection already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T18:50:41.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7286" CreationDate="2012-07-10T19:02:07.013" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the CO2 - I've had the same thing happen sniffing the top of a regular bubbler airlock. The CO2 enters the nose and dissolves quickly in the small capillaries creating carbonic acid, which stings.  There's no real danger here since you don't stick about long enough to breathe in much CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T19:02:07.013" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2012-07-10T23:21:08.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best sanitation practices and healthy yeast let my beers sit in primary for many months. As I tend to over pitch, the extra time is not wasted by our single cell friends.  Crystal clear (I stopped using secondaries some years back) and no off flavors.  Sorry, I don't know how this would affect bottling as I haven't done that in over 30 years.  Agree, great yeast is out there, grow it up if need be before pitching.  Or just get a growler full of it from from your local micro-brewery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2543" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T23:21:08.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-10T23:56:36.813" Score="3" ViewCount="970" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually take a hydrometer reading immediately after sparge so that I can calculate total points of gravity (i.e. gravity reading * volume), and from there calculate what volume of wort I should target post-boil to hit my target OG. For my pre-boil gravity reading, my runoff temp is usually in the 140*F range. I use a temperature correction formula from &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/brewery/library/HydromCorr0992.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrew Digest&lt;/a&gt; to correct my readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then make sure that I end my boil with the calculated volume of wort, either boiling longer to evaporate off more water, or adding water during the boil to get back up to the target volume. When all is said and done, post-boil, post-chill, my OG is often quite different from the target. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of things that could be contributing to this error?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the high temp correction formula isn't accurate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;my runoff is stratified into high-gravity on the bottom of the bucket and low-gravity on the top of the bucket, and my sample for the hydrometer reading is being taken from one of these layers (maybe I should stir the runoff before sampling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2544" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T01:08:28.403" Title="Potential causes of unreliable pre-boil gravity measurement" Tags="|techniques|mash|wort|specific-gravity|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7291" CreationDate="2012-07-11T00:53:08.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've covered the two main likely causes, with stratification being the most significant cause of error. Another potential error is in the volume measurement - if this is out, then all the calculations to relate pre and post boil gravity will be out also. Related to that is the 4 percent shrinkage that happens as wort is chilled from boiling to pitching temperature, so the volume you see post boil, while still at boiling temperature, is 4 percent grater than what you end up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T00:53:08.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7291" CreationDate="2012-07-11T01:08:28.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I can think of that isn't in mdma's answer is that your hydrometer is miscalbirated. Check that it reads 1.000 in distilled water at the temperature that the hydrometer is calibrated at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T01:08:28.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5124" CreationDate="2012-07-11T05:21:13.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there is some great advice here but I listen to a lot of bodcasts and there is a particular &lt;em&gt;Beersmith&lt;/em&gt; podcast called &quot;hop chemistry&quot; where &lt;em&gt;James Altwies&lt;/em&gt; from &lt;em&gt;Gorst Valley Hops&lt;/em&gt; gives some great info and mentions that they freeze their hops at an insanely low temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T05:21:13.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7392" CreationDate="2012-07-11T07:38:08.340" Score="5" ViewCount="1149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have about 20 litres of wine, that was not stored properly (warm place, some access of air), and is now sour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I make from spoiled wine vinegar of the commercial quality? If so, do I need a &quot;mother culture&quot; or just waiting longer will still produce the same quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4989/cherry-vinegar-was-supposed-to-be-mead&quot;&gt;Similar question, but too detailed for me.&lt;/a&gt; I am asking about the feasibility of the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2527" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T17:01:38.797" Title="Could I make vinegar from spoiled wine?" Tags="|spoilage|vinegar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7300" CreationDate="2012-07-11T12:09:26.870" Score="7" ViewCount="1592" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please tell me if I'm being overly simplistic here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading the book &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969&quot;&gt;yeast&lt;/a&gt; by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff.  In the book, they talk about measuring how many cells are in a slurry by using a microscope or by dilution until the slurry is clear in a test tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they also mention that the size and weight (density) of a yeast cell is known, the density of water is also known.  So couldn't one take a yeast slurry, measure its weight and volume and use this measure of density to determine what percentage of the mass is composed of yeast, and what percentage is composed of water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, since wort is more dense than distilled water, you may have to wash the slurry first.  But this seems much simpler than whipping out a microscope or doing multiple dilutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'm talking about measuring the number of yeast cells in a slurry, not their viability or vitality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1792" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T06:11:06.407" Title="Measuring yeast in a slurry" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|calculations|measurements|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7297" CreationDate="2012-07-11T14:29:53.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get a particularly clean sample that is just wort or water and naturally compacted yeast then this should work, at least if calibrated initially against a cell count. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trouble is that  most slurries from previous ferments contain a fair amount of trub, which can be difficult to account for. If you have a conical, then cropping from the top-middle of the cone should give you a viable as well as clean sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tricky part is that may also need to know the ratio of yeast to liquid, since densities of slurries can vary, unless you let it settle completely in a flask and then draw off all the liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to wash the slurry to remove the wort if you take a sample of clean wort and measure its density. This saves a washing step which could be a pain to do thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-07-11T14:49:03.363" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T14:49:03.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6986" CreationDate="2012-07-12T02:06:34.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think fermentation is incomplete you could try pitching a healthy starter of a different ale yeast obtained from a known good source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other have said however it's likely that most of those residual gravity points are coming from unfermentables like maltodextrin. In that case you are not likely to ever get a substantially lower FG. If you only want more alcohol you can add table sugar and wait for it to ferment out. Just be aware that it will affect the flavor profile of your finished beer, making it taste 'hotter' or cider-like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T02:06:34.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7297" CreationDate="2012-07-12T02:14:35.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory if you can accurately measure your density and weights its possible.  But in most real world applications your two measures will be contaminated by protein, wort, alcohol and hop debris.  That will make an accurate measurment impossible, albeit a scientifically sound assumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast also aren't always the same size they swell and shrink a bit as a population depending on environmental conditions and growth phase.  Again these things confound and put error in the measurements of density and weight per cell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T02:14:35.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6986" CreationDate="2012-07-12T17:13:06.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How did you measure your final gravity? I use a Refractometer and FG readings need to be adjusted for alcohol. I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://onebeer.net/refractometer.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://onebeer.net/refractometer.shtml&lt;/a&gt; to calculate ABV and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewheads.com/brixsg.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewheads.com/brixsg.php&lt;/a&gt; to convert from SG/FG to Brix/Plato&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T17:13:06.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2012-07-13T01:46:09.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what its worth, I recently made Cherry Bounce with Montmorency Cherries I picked from Door County, WI and Brandy. I used a liter of brandy, about 1.5 cups of PITTED cherries, and about .33 cup of turbinado sugar. I mixed it up in the bottle and let sit for 4 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is delicious. If it were me, Id simply do the same but with vodka. There is not a lot that can go too wrong here..not sure you can make vodka taste any worse. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T01:46:09.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-13T15:07:39.023" Score="0" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6485/should-dry-hopping-be-done-in-secondary-when-to-transfer-and-for-how-long&quot;&gt;Should dry hopping be done in secondary, when to transfer, and for how long?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this talk about primary vs secondary, and contamination, oxidation, makes it a little apprehensive to rack into a secondary for the purposes of dry hopping. That's why I'd like to know is it cool ti dry hop the primary, or do we have go secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2549" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T16:13:44.600" Title="can you dry hop in the primary, or do you have to rack into a secondary in order to add the dry hops?" Tags="|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-07-13T18:17:50.653" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7303" CreationDate="2012-07-13T15:38:55.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider that commerical breweries regularly dry hop in primary, post-ferment.  You might get better results dry-hopping in a temp-controlled secondary or in keg (lower temps, less O₂, &amp;amp;c.), but there's no problem with dry-hopping in primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T15:38:55.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7303" CreationDate="2012-07-13T16:04:45.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just dry hopped in primary yesterday and plan to bottle the same in 5 days. You can really dry hop whenever you like, but I would recommend doing it when fermentation has either slowed or almost completed, and do it in your final fermentation vessel (i.e. if you are doing secondary anyway, dry hop there instead). There is also other good input on this in other questions already asked, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/1794/2518&quot;&gt;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/1794/2518&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T16:13:44.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7303" CreationDate="2012-07-13T16:13:19.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always dry-hop in the primary.  Mostly because I'm lazy, but also because of the reasons you mention: less chance of infection and oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer to secondary for clearer beer, that's an argument for dry hopping in the primary as well - you'll leave all that extra hop material in the primary instead of having to rack to a third vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no compelling reason to move to the secondary for dry-hopping, especially since you're only dry-hopping a week or two: autolysis isn't an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T16:13:19.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7308" CreationDate="2012-07-14T13:27:27.327" Score="3" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran out of time grinding last night, even though I had already conditioned my grain: are there any concerns with leaving some slightly moist grains in a  bucket overnight? I've got about 4 ounces of water in approx. 9.5 lbs of grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2215" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T15:10:38.910" Title="If I condition my grain, is it ok to wait until I grind it?" Tags="|all-grain|grinding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7307" CreationDate="2012-07-14T13:57:26.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely, if it doesn't smell foul everything will be fine.   I think for the most part, any lactic acid produced will primarily help to keep your mash pH a little lower (possibly buffering any salts you might add, and possibly helping to aid mash efficiency).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wind up tasting something off, you'll know what it was that caused it and know that you don't want to do it again.   Relax, Don't Worry, &lt;em&gt;etc&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as mitigation if it's too much, brew something that tastes good with a touch of sour (citrusy pale ale, farmhouse beer, stout, &lt;em&gt;etc&lt;/em&gt;.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-07-14T15:10:38.910" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T15:10:38.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7313" CreationDate="2012-07-14T21:18:20.577" Score="5" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will soon be making a hefe and will be using wyeast's 3068. In recent hefes I have made, I have always desired much more intensity in the flavors provided by the yeast strain. The only method i am aware of to manipulate this yeast strain's flavor profile is fermentation temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But not only do I want to manipulate the yeast's flavor profile, I also want to make the flavor given off by the yeast much more intense. Any thoughts on if this is possible and how it could be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; Open Fermenting was AMAZING.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed a honey-weizen a few weeks back, and went ahead with open fermentation for the first 3 days. I pretty much followed the Brewing TV episode to the 'T'. I must say, that it was quite the experience...I used a 7.5 gallon bucket, no lid or screen, and just pitched the 3068, no starter. My fermentation room (i.e. basement) was indeed saturated in a banana &amp;amp; clove perfume, and as you can imagine, yeast harvesting was a breeze. After 72 hours of fermentation, I transferred into a 5 gal glass carboy and let it finish for another 7 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pretty much knew when tasting after just 3 days in primary that open fermentation indeed gave me the results I was looking for. And now that the beer is bottled and carbonated, I can confirm that the typical hefe yeast flavor/aroma profile is the most intense of any hefe I have made, BY FAR. This is especially notable in the aroma...the aroma is at least twice as intense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I can not wait to make my next hefe. I couldn't recommend this method of fermenting a hefe any more, and you should MOST DEFINITELY give it a try. Doing this myself, has really been a homebrewing life changing experience. A huge thanks to @dazoakley for pointing me in this direction, and Jermey King at Northern Brewer for being such a kung-fu yeast master (KINGED!). I plan to continue experimenting with this method for any future hefe, or other ale using a good top cropping yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastEditorUserId="2518" LastEditDate="2012-08-13T19:15:19.127" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T19:15:19.127" Title="Possible to intensify/increase the amount of yeast flavor?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|flavor|open-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7311" CreationDate="2012-07-15T09:08:56.557" Score="5" ViewCount="32719" Body="&lt;p&gt;My latest batch of IPA has come out really unpleasantly bitter, it was only supposed to be about 45 IBUs, using a combination of Northdown, Target and Bobek for bittering (60 minutes) and some more Bobek at flame out and for dry hopping.  But I think I may have messup up somewhere as it tastes like it's much much higher than that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not bottled it yet (it's still in the secondary - been there for a couple of weeks), so I was wondering if there was a way I could rescue this batch, or at least make it more pleasant to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I could add to the secondary, prior to bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just shove it in the bottles and age it for a while to see if it mellows out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's still too harsh after aging, would it be worth trying to blend it with another beer to counteract the over the top bitterness?  If yes, what do you suggest, something more malty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the details on the hops as requested in the comments...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Northdown (8.1% AA) - 23g at 60min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Target (9.3% AA) - 23g at 60min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bobek (5.25% AA) - 23g at 0min, 20g dry hop for 4 days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG was 1.059, FG was 1.012&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-07-16T08:07:55.540" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T04:00:47.450" Title="Any way to rescue an overly bitter beer?" Tags="|flavor|bitterness|bittering|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7310" CreationDate="2012-07-15T10:18:35.397" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I vote for ageing, 45 IBUs isn't that bitter, and the bitterness will round out over time. It's more important that you nail down if this is how it should have turned out, or if there was a process problem, so you can avoid doing the same again in future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you accustomed to drinking IPAs? I remember my first which was around 45 IBUs, and thought it was unpleasant. Now I barely taste 45 IBUs. You may simply need to acquire the taste for the hop bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, are you sure it's hop bitterness you're tasting. Could it be astringency from the hops or from excessive fly sparging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, let it age. I wouldn't start messing with it, since you're equally likely to end up with a brew that is at least as undrinkable, only for different reasons. If you want to blend, I would blend in the glass with another brew, such as a pale ale. At least you can then enjoy some of the brew now while you're waiting for it to round out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T10:18:35.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7310" CreationDate="2012-07-15T12:37:55.933" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an alternative to drinking it, you could cook with it and use it in marinades. In this arena you can take advantage of the concentrated flavors and bitterness. Obvious examples would be beer brats, beer cheese soup, beer cheese dip, beer bread etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the time it would take you to cook with 5 gallons of beer, it would still offer you the chance to see if it improves with age (as mdma describes). Then each time you make food with the beer you have a chance to sample for any improvement in bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T12:37:55.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7309" CreationDate="2012-07-15T13:45:16.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a hefe with this yeast a few months back and it turned out really really well - strong clove and banana flavours, and a nice yeasty zing to it.  I'm planning on doing this again very shortly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this batch I did two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't try to control the temperature, I just let it go to whatever it wanted to - I think at one point I measured it at 28°C (~82°F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open fermentation.  Once there was a krausen formed (overnight from pitching), I loosened the lid on the fermenter (and left it slightly ajar) so that oxygen could get in and out of the fermenter and left it like that for three days.  The smells that were coming out of it were awesome. (See this episode of BrewingTV for where I got the idea: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingtv.com/episodes/2010/5/17/brewing-tv-episode-4-open-fermentation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewingtv.com/episodes/2010/5/17/brewing-tv-episode-4-open-fermentation.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a really intense hefe i'd suggest trying either (or both) of the things above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T13:45:16.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-15T16:55:33.307" Score="7" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any good resources for finding out which hop varieties have similar aroma, flavour and bittering potential.  E.g. a place to lookup a hop could be substituted for another hop for bittering for flavor and for aroma?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list on wikipedia is a good starting point, but it's not very well cross referenced - because that is not what wikipedia is for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1792" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T16:03:42.683" Title="Hop variety resources" Tags="|beer|hops|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7314" CreationDate="2012-07-15T17:21:21.257" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopunion's Hop Variet Databook is a great resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopunion.com/17_HopVarieties.cfm?p3=open&quot;&gt;http://hopunion.com/17_HopVarieties.cfm?p3=open&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T17:21:21.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7314" CreationDate="2012-07-15T17:57:42.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew-dudes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brew-dudes.com/&lt;/a&gt; are fine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T17:57:42.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2012-07-15T20:13:51.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having made a ton of wines (including cherry wine), sodas, pickles, beer and other fermented goodies I can tell you that the most important thing is going to be having a sanitized/sterile environment. Use a sanitizer such as One-Step on all of your containers, utensils and even your hands. Don't allow anything that's not sanitized to go into your fermenting container. Wash your cherries well, or buy some from a wine company that are pasteurized to ensure that there are no contaminants on the fruit (otherwise you can boil yours). I have used Vintners Harvest Fruit Wine Making Bases before, which include 96-oz cans of cherries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your fermenting container is going to need an airlock (sanitize it!), and fortunately for small-scale fermenters this company makes something much less gigantic than the 5 or 6-gallon bucket you'll find at a homebrew store: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pickl-it.com/products/singles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pickl-it.com/products/singles/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried wild fermenting, and if you start with sanitized ingredients you won't have any wild yeasts. Depends on what kind of finished product you want, there are a ton of great yeasts out there, go to your homebrew store, tell them what you're making, and I'm sure they'll give you advice on what yeast to go with. Other things such as yeast nutrient, pectic enzyme, etc, may or may not be necessary depending on what kind of final product you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2553" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T20:13:51.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7314" CreationDate="2012-07-15T21:08:03.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep these bookmarked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewandbeer.com/hops.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://homebrewandbeer.com/hops.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopschart.com/zoom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hopschart.com/zoom&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2030" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T21:08:03.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7314" CreationDate="2012-07-15T22:31:03.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/hop-list/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerSmith&lt;/a&gt; has a pretty good list, but I'm going to upvote and bookmark Denny's link immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://usahops.org/userfiles/file/HGA%20BCI%20Reports/HGA%20Variety%20Manual%20-%20English%20%28updated%20March%202011%29.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;variety book by USA Hops&lt;/a&gt; that seems comparable to the one from HopUnion that Denny provided.  Unfortunately, it only has American hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2531" LastEditorUserId="2531" LastEditDate="2012-07-22T16:03:42.683" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T16:03:42.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7309" CreationDate="2012-07-16T18:55:53.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the case of yeast in general I think you already have the answer and thats ferment warmer.  The primary flavor cmpds from most yeasts you'd be concerned with are esters and temperature increases tend to increase that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of Hefe, a ferulic acid rest in the mash can help create more clove, but I am not aware of any other phenomenon like that which help with say, English Ale yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some may suggest underpitching, but I think that brings about some other flavors not characteristic of the strain as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An email to White Labs or Wyeast would help steer you in the right direction too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T18:55:53.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7322" CreationDate="2012-07-17T14:41:30.507" Score="5" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a 16-gallon batch of my Lawnmower Lager, popped it into my &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewhemoth.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewhemoth&lt;/a&gt; and inoculated it with 3 packets of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/fo/pdf/HB/EN/Saflager_S-23_HB.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saflager S-23&lt;/a&gt;.  My chilling solution isn't working as well as I'd hoped, and it's currently around 60F after about 16 hours - I've just got some bubbling in the blowoff.  I expect it'll be in the mid-to-high 60's when I get home from work today due to fermentation kicking into high gear.  I was hoping for 53-57F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got some plans to get the temp down, but if I can't I'm going to call it a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style07.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;California common/steam beer&lt;/a&gt; and hope for the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which brings me back around to my question: since a steam beer is typically fermented with lager yeast at ale temps from the start, won't it generate a ton of diacetyl?  And since you're already at ale temps, how do you do a diacetyl rest to clean it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T15:07:21.003" Title="Accidental steam beer, temp control and diacetyl" Tags="|fermentation|diacetyl-rest|california-common|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7321" CreationDate="2012-07-17T15:07:21.003" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The warmer the fermentation (to a reasonable point) the more active the yeast is and the less diacetyl you'll get.  To do a diacetyl rest for an ale, you just leave it on the yeast longer.  It's not the temp that matters for a d rest.  You raise the temp for lagers in order to make the yeast more active, but the actual temp (again, within reason) doesn't really matter.  Considering the yeast you used, you may have lucked out.  S-23 can be almost disgustingly fruity at normal lager temps.  It seems to work much better in the 60s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T15:07:21.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7089" CreationDate="2012-07-17T23:15:36.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made cider from store-bought apple cider. I didn't use any pectic enzyme, but I did clear it with sparkolloid after fermentation. It's crystal clear now. I also have a cider from home-pressed apples that is very hazy even after clearing, I should have used pectic enzyme on it but otherwise it tastes fine. I think the clearing (you can use sparkolloid or bentonite for non-animal alternatives to isinglass) is going to be important in getting a nice clear wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2553" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T23:15:36.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7326" CreationDate="2012-07-18T09:27:01.113" Score="3" ViewCount="1636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the white coopers australian stout 23L kit which recommends the additional 1kg sugar you can add but I know its not recommended. I know most people add 1kg spraymalt but I do not have it right now, or any brewing sugar (and won't be able to get more for a while). I was wondering how 500g or 1kg of 'caramel sugar' or brown sugar would taste. Is another alternative to just reduce the amount of wort I make? I've used 1kg white sugar with a bitter/pale ale in the past and it tasted fine. This kit is apparently very bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thank you for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T09:55:46.150" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T09:55:46.150" Title="Coopers australian stout - Replacing white sugar, no spraymalt or brewing sugar" Tags="|stout|sugar|kits|substitution|coopers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7325" CreationDate="2012-07-18T10:39:55.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a stout that would be fine, since the roastiness of the brew will overpower any residual sweetness, and color change will not be noticable. Any caramel flavors that do come through will be a positive bonus to offset the bitterness of the kit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no problem using regular table sugar with these kits, although using spraymalt/DME  will enhance the malt qualities of the brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your position I'd probably do 500g of white table sugar and 500g of brown sugar. So you get some dryness from the table sugar, and a little extra flavour from the brown sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T10:39:55.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="535" CreationDate="2012-07-18T15:13:55.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps bravo would be decent sub if you've got that at you LHBS??&#xA;I've used that and warrior in the past for clean bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2089" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T15:13:55.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7265" CreationDate="2012-07-18T23:41:56.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did need to take the posts out to figure this out. Took a while to get my hands on the right wrench. Needed a 7/8&quot; 12-point wrench, which was not available outside of an expensive set and the local hardware store or home depot. Ultimately ordered &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000NPPC78&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; on Amazon for under $6, which worked. They look like the standard Cornelius/General Beverage ones (#2 from CHI). Expensive! Wonder if those cheaper universal ones work as well. Also looks like I'm going to need to replace the relief valves at some point, these ones are pretty grody.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHfnI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;poppets&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T23:41:56.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7330" CreationDate="2012-07-19T04:43:27.213" Score="4" ViewCount="4505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a lager (Wyeast 2206) that I've just taken out of primary fermentation (at ~8C, for 10 days) for a diacetyl rest (at ~20C).  I picked the time to do it based on &quot;How To Brew&quot; suggesting I wait until bubbling slows to 1-4 bubbles / minute.  It was about 18s between bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's now at 20C &amp;amp; is bubbling away furiously, so I'm concerned I may have moved it too early.  How can I tell if it is too early?  Does it matter?  What's the impact and can I recover from it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T12:38:58.947" Title="How to tell if (and recover from) a diacetyl rest was done too early?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|lager|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7329" CreationDate="2012-07-19T12:38:58.947" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NEVER&lt;/strong&gt; use bubbling as a measure of anything important. You MUST take actual gravity readings to know where your fermentation is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, you should do a diacytl rest when you are about 70-80% done with fermentation. So for a &quot;normal&quot; strength lager (1.050-1.060 OG) I'll start the diacytl rest when the beer hits about the 1.020-1.022 range (assuming I'm expecting it to finish around 1.012-1.014). This is usually around the time when the bubbling starts to slow down a touch, and the krausen starts to droop a bit, but you can't really tell without taking gravity readings. Since lagers ferment a touch slower than ales, the window for the diacytl rest is a bit bigger, and I've never had a lager that dropped too fast so long as I was taking samples every few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flavor wise, if you warmed the lager up too early, you will get some of those undesirable flavors that make Steam Beer (like Anchor Steam) taste like they do. Its hard to describe, but its like a &quot;rough&quot; flavor to me, and you could potentially get a touch of fruity esters as well. However, if your beer started fermentation at the proper temps, and you just warmed it up a touch too early, these flavors should be minimal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing to remember is basic physics: cold liquids hold more C02 in suspension than warm ones. If you had a beer at, say, 50F and you brought it up to 70F after fermentation was 100% done, &lt;strong&gt;you would see bubbling&lt;/strong&gt;. But NOT because of new fermentation, but because of the fact that some of the C02 in suspension at 50F will bubble out at 70F and make your airlock jumpy, just like during fermentation. In fact, this might be exactly what you are experiencing. Your beer might be right at the proper gravity for the d-rest, but the warmer temps ALSO make a few extra bubbles of C02, so it looks like fermentation is going on more vigorously than it actually is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr; - Your beer will most likely be great, but next time, take gravity readings as the fermentation starts slowing, and move to a D-rest temp (63F-70F) when your fermentation is 80% done.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T12:38:58.947" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7314" CreationDate="2012-07-19T13:40:22.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been doing a lot of hop chemistry research and if you want a more then basic comparison check this site out&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerlegends.com/hops-varieties&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beerlegends.com/hops-varieties&lt;/a&gt; Click on a hop variety you are interested in and there will be a chart for every characteristic of a hop you could ever want to know. &#xA;Get to know your &lt;em&gt;hop oil fractions (or compositions)&lt;/em&gt;(Myrcene Humulene Caryophyllene and Farnesene), it's the last chart at the bottom. If you don't know much about hop oils a click on the oil name next to the chart will take you to a brief description and sort the hops by that specific oil. besides charts it also has a hop substitute list and common beer styles list as well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T13:40:22.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7333" CreationDate="2012-07-19T13:48:05.017" Score="2" ViewCount="468" Body="&lt;p&gt;-TLDR version of the questions:  How long could/should you keep fermented beer on the yeast at 72 degrees after reaching an appropriate final gravity before racking/bottling to minimize off-flavor compounds (I’m particularly gunshy about diacetyl and acetaldehyde)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Does biere de garde benefit from cold-crashing, and if so, can I cold crash on the yeast, or do I need to rack to a carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed a 55 gallon batch of biere de garde with my homebrew club this past Saturday.  We came out a little light on FG (1.061, compared to recipe target of 1.068), and also had an issue with our plate/pre-chiller set up, and only got most of the wort down to the mid-70’s/low-80’s.  We split up the wort (each guy got 5 gallons).  I had to leave early, and the guy who hosted pitched a cup of Brewer’s Art Resurrection (dubbel) yeast at about 75 degrees, and kept it in his basement, ambient temp of about 70.  Came back a day later, fermenter temp was about 75 with vigorous airlock activity.  Took my fermenter and another for a fellow member and put them in my ferm chest, and dialed back the temperature.  Per Jamil’s recipe, I set the controller to 66 degrees, and placed the probe on the outside of my fermenter (ale pail) with styrofoam/tape on the outside to insulate it from the ambient temp inside the ferm chest.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jamil says to raise the fermentation temp by one degree or so per day once fermentation slows until you are at 72.  As I noticed airlock activity slowing (I didn’t take a gravity reading) two nights ago, I let it creep up to 67, then 68 last night.  I plan to take a gravity reading tonight.  Also, in Chris White’s book, he notes that a great technique achieve proper attenuation is to pitch on the warmer side (mid/high-70’s), let fermentation start, then ratchet it back to your desired temp (as we did here, somewhat accidentally).  The only caveat is that if you do this, you need to raise the temp back up at the end of fermentation to clean up these compounds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my questions: I have been operating under the wisdom that as homebrewers, we should not take beer off the yeast for at least 2 weeks.  Even if the krausen subsides and FG is reached, leaving the beer on the yeast can ONLY benefit the beer (autolysis seems to be less of a concern with today’s yeast strains).  However, I am new to temp control, and I know commercial brewers regularly have primary fermentations in the 6-7 day range.  Also, I would like to cold crash this for at least a month.  Should I take it off the yeast before doing so? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-07-19T17:01:21.067" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T02:02:12.987" Title="Fermentation Schedule on a Biere de Garde" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7332" CreationDate="2012-07-20T02:02:12.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are pitching healthy yeast into an appropriately made wort there is never a concern of off flavors from yeast.  ALWAYS wait till the yeast is done.  Done being checking first for the expected terminal gravity, THEN by taste.  IF you have reached FG and it still tastes like it needs more time to clean up diacetyl and the like, leave it a little longer. (Maybe even at higher temp).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all there is to it.  I have never had a problem, and never worry about being on a yeast cake for several weeks if necessary as long as my yeast was healthy and my wort was properly aerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once its done, then you can take it off the yeast and cold crash.&#xA;And as Denny has said: Just because pro brewers get certain results, homebrewers shouldn't expect the same results with small batches/equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T02:02:12.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7335" CreationDate="2012-07-20T15:08:49.097" Score="6" ViewCount="12624" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've read it seems you Have to boil the full wort amount when going all grain. I just want to make sure that is the case, as I couldn't understand why you couldn't just boil the malt etc and make a strong wort and then just dilute it later, kind of like a beer kit? As after all the beer kit makers do sort of the same thing, the wort is concentrated and then later diluted. I'm mostly just looking to save money, but it would be fun to try out all grain. My biggest pot is around 12L and I'd be looking to do around 23L batches. thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T16:55:08.480" Title="All grain - is full wort boil absolutely necessary?" Tags="|all-grain|boil|brewpot|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7334" CreationDate="2012-07-20T15:44:13.100" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you don't have to boil the full volume in AG brewing.  I only had a 7 gal. pot when I started AG so I's boil about 5 gal. down to 3.5-4, then add top off water.  Boiling less will reduce your efficieny because you don't collect as much wort.  You need to use more grain to make a higher gravity wort at less volume, so you can top off afterward.  That was my main motivation to get a bigger kettle and do full volume boils.  But I won some awards with partial boils, so if that's all you can do you can still make great beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T15:44:13.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7334" CreationDate="2012-07-20T15:46:45.093" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A full wort boil is not absolutely necessary, but you shouldn't be topping off too much of your volume.  Your efficiency will suffer greatly from topping off.  Even if you're able to hit 80% effiency with 11.5L of wort (a big if), after boiling and topping off to 23L you'll end up with below 40% brewhouse effiency.  You would also definitely be limited in terms of how many pounds of grains you could work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't an issue with extract brewing, because you get the same amount of sugars from the extract no matter how much water you use.  This is not the case with grains at all, since you'll need more mash water, more sparge water, and you definitely need to boil all the wort you obtain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ideas to try out all grain with your current setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try partial mash, adding only a couple of pounds of extract.  You can learn the ins and outs of all grain brewing without much of the hassle.  You'll get to mash grains and save some money.The best guide I've seen for this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/&quot;&gt;DeathBrewer's&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://kissbrew.com/homebrewing-process/&quot;&gt;my homebrewing process&lt;/a&gt; is based on his.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try a smaller batch size with a nearly full boil.  Scaling recipes is incredibly easy.  For example, you can take a recipe for 23L and make it into a recipe for 11.5L by simply cutting all the ingredient amounts in half.  I scaled back my batch sizes to 4 gallons for reasons similar to yours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try splitting your batch into two simultaneous boils.  If you're set on a 23L batch, you can go through your boil in two pots, adding equal amounts of hops and combining them later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2531" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T15:46:45.093" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7334" CreationDate="2012-07-20T16:55:08.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good answers already given, although if you choose to boil a higher gravity then add top up water, keep in mind that that boiling a higher gravity wort reduces hop utilization, so you need to use more hops to achieve the same level of bitterness. (Doesn't apply to flavor and aroma hops.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically it's between 10% and 30% more. The table &lt;a href=&quot;http://realbeer.com/hops/research.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; lists hop utilization factors by time and gravity. If you're not using brewing software, which can do this calculation for you, you can work out how much more hops to use with the formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Utilization at Original Gravity&#xA;------------------------------- - 1 * 100 %&#xA;  Utilization at High Gravity&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if your original recipe has 60min hops for a 1.050 wort, but you do a concentrated boil, with a 1.080 wort, then the amount of additional hops is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; = (0.231 / 0.176 - 1) * 100 &#xA; = (1.3125 - 1) * 100&#xA; = 0.3125 * 100&#xA; = 31.25 %&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you'd need about 30% more hops than in the original recipe if you boil 1.080 wort rather than 1.050. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T16:55:08.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7526" CreationDate="2012-07-20T23:35:25.243" Score="3" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in locating a resource where differente yeast strains are discussed and profiled, such that for a given yeast strain I can see what different brewers' experiences have been with respect to ideal fermentation temperature, temperature effect on flavour, overall yeast effect on flavour, etc. I know certain manufacturers provide some of this information, but the effect of temperature on flavour per yeast strain I have found hard to come by: is this not unique to different yeasts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2215" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T20:38:16.467" Title="Yeast Character Resource" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7340" CreationDate="2012-07-21T02:57:26.030" Score="7" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a kegerator for my husband as a welcome home from deployment present. I'm going to assemble it in about a month and he's back in about two months. I want to connect everything and tap the beer to make sure there aren't any leaks or problems, but if it sits for about a month, is that going to affect the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2564" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T03:39:26.220" Title="5 gallon keg life?" Tags="|shelf-life|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7339" CreationDate="2012-07-21T04:08:52.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using CO2 to force dispense the keg, as in a kegerator, then tapping it shouldn't really affect the life of the beer (assuming there are no leaks or whatever). The beer in the keg remains covered by a layer of pressurized CO2, which will prevent oxygen or an infection from getting in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a month is a long time for beer to sit in the lines, so if you do hook it up to test it, I would drain and clean the beer lines with an appropriate cleaner after verifying that everything is hooked up correctly. Or you could just wait until a week or so to go, which should give you enough time to work out any kinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How often and thoroughly you clean the beer lines is sort of a personal preference, but if the beer has been sitting for more than a week or two I like to flush it with water at least. Some people are willing to wait a lot longer than that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As a side note, if you tap a keg using air pressure to dispense, e.g. with those hand pump dispensers, the beer will stale &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more quickly since oxygen is getting in -- those are really for drinking a whole keg at once for a party or something.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Followup regarding beer shelf life:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original question was about the effect of tapping a keg, but there is also the implied issue of the shelf life of beer in general. If the beer is stored properly it should be good for at least 3 months, and generally 6 months should be no problem for most beers. Exposure to light and heat can shorten the life of the beer, but neither of those should be a problem in a kegerator. If you get a commercial keg there may not be an easy way to determine how long ago it was brewed. Beers with higher alcohol content will last longer—I've heard a rule of thumb that once you get above 7% ABV the beer will last indefinitely if properly stored (although the flavors may change over time, for better or for worse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="1736" LastEditDate="2012-07-22T03:39:26.220" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T03:39:26.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7338" CreationDate="2012-07-21T07:43:10.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not exactly what you want, but if you use White Labs yeast, they have pretty good info on their site (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew_strains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew_strains.html&lt;/a&gt;) along with customer reviews for each strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T07:43:10.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="739" CreationDate="2012-07-21T14:38:39.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can actually use 5 gallon glass carboy with a 1-inch blowoff tube for a primary fermenter in a setup called the &quot;Blow-off Method&quot;. The wort basically fills up the carboy, and then the krausen blows off. You need to make sure you have a big blow-off tube  since you can get a large volume of blowoff (a 5/16&quot; racking tube will quickly plug). A 1-inch tube will fit snugly inside a glass carboy mouth, but you could probably figure something out for a Better Bottle as well (it has a wider mouth). You also will need to make sure you have a large container of sanitizer to put the end of the tube in — I use a 2 gallon bucket instead of my usual 1 liter water bottle for a regular blow-off tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brad Smith has a good description of this method, with pictures: &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2009/10/10/better-beer-with-the-burton-union-blow-off-method/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Better Beer with The Burton Union Blow-Off Method&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried it a couple times and it seems to work well, although when I'm using that technique I will tend to lean towards the lower end of the recommended fermentation temperature range to keep the yeast activity from running wild and making a mess. I've never had it overflow, but it's definitely a possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One pro of this method is that you get a lot of the break material and hop bits out of the beer, since they're pushed to the surface and then out the tube. However it's possible that you'll lose a bit of yeast, so I'm not sure if it would be a good technique if you wanted to harvest and wash yeast (haven't tried so I really can't say).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="1736" LastEditDate="2012-07-21T15:49:38.990" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T15:49:38.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7345" CreationDate="2012-07-22T13:54:58.803" Score="8" ViewCount="2709" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that wort gravity does not affect hop utilization.  Instead, a larger boil volume will increase hop utilization, while a higher amount of break material will lower hop utilization.  This would mean that for all grain batches, high wort gravity is correlated to low hop utilization, but for extract batches it would be irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this contradicts a number of brewing resources, such as Palmer's &lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt; and multiple articles in &lt;em&gt;BYO&lt;/em&gt;.  I've read that Palmer has since changed his mind (but I have no good reference for this).  I've also read that &lt;em&gt;BYO&lt;/em&gt; and Basic Brewing Radio did an experiment with extract that determined boil size, not wort gravity, was the contributing factor to hop utilization (again, can't find the reference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is this:  Does wort gravity affect hop utilization?  In particular, I'm looking for a solid reference (maybe even with a solid experiment) rather than general brewing knowledge or forum posts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2531" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T21:32:34.927" Title="Does wort gravity affect hop utilization?" Tags="|hop-utilization|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7343" CreationDate="2012-07-22T21:32:34.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The podcast &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/02/26/brewing-high-gravity-beers-with-john-palmer-beersmith-podcast-33/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;High gravity brewing&lt;/a&gt;&quot; with John Palmer discusses this at the 18 minute mark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To paraphrase, John says that hop utilization does decrease with higher wort gravity, but not because of solubility as originally thought (the difference in solubility between 1.040 and 1.080 is negligible), but mostly because there are more solids in the wort that the iso-alpha acids stick to, keeping them out of the wort and so reducing bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original tables of hop utilization were made on an empirical basis, and they are still valid. What has changed is the cause of the decrease in bitterness is now better understood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a podcast by John P. and Jamil Z. and discussion of the utilization issue &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/discus/messages/50162/50992.html?1318693388&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T21:32:34.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-23T04:00:26.920" Score="9" ViewCount="13069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to try homebrewing, and I've read a great deal about the process, but I will have more time than money (I'm about to graduate from college).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like most people buy a lot of equipment and then start with 5-gallon extract kits. The reasoning behind this seems to be that extract kits are easier and take less time to brew (and have fewer opportunities to make mistakes), and most recipes are calibrated for 5-gallon batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've also read that it's perfectly possible to brew smaller quantities. For me, this would be cheaper (I don't have to buy a huge kettle or propane burner, and I can ferment in wine or apple juice jugs), and when I inevitably screw something up I don't have to drink two cases of bad beer. Also, I can try more different things at once (since one-gallon fermenters are smaller and cheaper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it seems that buying grain is much cheaper than buying extract, while the BIAB process makes mashing relatively easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound manageable for a first-time brewer, or are there good reasons why everyone seems to start with $100+ worth of equipment and a five-gallon extract kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2405" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-07-23T13:10:06.693" LastActivityDate="2020-09-07T01:20:24.927" Title="Brew In A Bag one-gallon batch?" Tags="|equipment|small-batch|biab|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7346" CreationDate="2012-07-23T12:09:50.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you are on a budget and you don't want to buy a ton of equipment for something you don't know if you will like or not then I suggest checking out the Brooklyn Brew Shop (&lt;a href=&quot;http://brooklynbrewshop.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brooklynbrewshop.com/&lt;/a&gt;).  The make a 1 gallon kit with all equipment necessary to brew a batch and it is designed for people on a budget and people who don't have a ton of space, or for people who just want to try it.  They sell the equipment kit and whole bunch of recipes for it.  for $40 you get the equipment and you first recipe kit and recipes are just $15.  You should already have a brew pot big enough to boil 1 gallon of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, after you try it and realize you like it, you haven't invested a lot of money into equipment you wont use again because the 1 gallon 'carboy' fermenter would be well suited to using to make yeast starters in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Sorry, realized I only addressed the budget part of the question, not the BIAB part.  I don't see why you couldn't scale any recipe down from 5 or 10 gallons to do a 1 gallon batch for brew in a bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T12:09:50.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7346" CreationDate="2012-07-23T12:41:53.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds perfectly manageable to me.  BIAB is especially easy with small batch sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, keep in mind that there's nothing magical about 5 gallons.  Sure, you get two cases of beer in return, but you can scale any 5 gallon recipe to a 1 gallon recipe by simply dividing all ingredients by 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you get your feet wet with a 1 gallon extract and steeping grains batch.  This would be faster and easier than BIAB, and it would be a great way to try out brewing.  At this scale, the cost difference between extract and grain is pretty low (remember: 1 pound of grain has less sugars than 1 pound of extract).  If you like brewing, BIAB would only be a bag away, and you could start this on your very next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2531" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T12:41:53.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7338" CreationDate="2012-07-23T13:43:06.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast is a tricky little thing, and a good yeast resource including a collection of several yeast company would be nice. On one hand it would be a bit redundant because different companies use the same or very similar strain of yeast but have their own name for it, but on the other hand it would be nice to look up specifically the yeast you use. And as a general rule the warmer the fermentation the more estery (Banana, clove, &quot;Belgiany&quot;) your beer will turn out. I know that doesn't help much but I think at this point a whole lot of research and brewing is your best bet, I listen to a lot of podcasts on brewing and that is really helpful... GOOD LUCK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T13:43:06.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7346" CreationDate="2012-07-23T16:49:44.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brew in a bag is perfectly manageable for a first time brewer. It's pretty straightforward, and if you already have the equipment for a small batch that's perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started with a 5 gallon kit and then wondered why, once I discovered brew in a bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of things to watch out for though, because in my experience if the batch is too small it becomes difficult to control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that a lot of water is lost in the brew process. It evaporates off during the boil, is soaked up by the grains, and also by the trub (hop and yeast debris in the fermenter). For some reason these losses, especially to evaporation, seem to be exaggerated in small brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To end up with 1 gallon of beer you may need to start with 1.5, or more. I once tried to make a 3 litre batch (0.8 gallons), but bottled just 1 pint. If you stop the boil from getting too vigorous that should help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, small differences in quantity of ingredients have a bigger percentage effect on the flavour than they would in a bigger brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To match a particular recipe, or brew a successful beer again, you'll need some fairly accurate scales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2567" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T16:49:44.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7346" CreationDate="2012-07-24T13:56:46.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I started I did a bunch of 3 gallon batches for the same reasons you mention. Now I have transitioned into 5 gallon batches and 2 gallon batches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried 1 gallon batches but its far to little beer, and way too hard to control the final amount of liquid obtained, as well as measure everything in such small amounts. I also enjoy tasting the beer after 3 days, 1 week, 2 weeks, etc. And see how it ages and changes. There is not enough beer in a 1 gallon batch to really do this to much. These are the reasons I moved to 2 gallon batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would recommend doing 2 gallons at a time&lt;/strong&gt; for the reasons I mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heres what I would recommend equipment wise and why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy an &lt;strong&gt;8 gallon stainless brew pot&lt;/strong&gt;. This will allow you to do an occasional 5 gallon batch should you like a recipe, as well as when you are ready to move up you will already have it, it still works great for 2 gallons (not for 1 though, its too wide). This will be the most expensive thing you have to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy the biggest, strongest &lt;strong&gt;BIAB bag&lt;/strong&gt; you can find. I like the ones from austin homebrew but there are many others. 1 large bag is enough for 15lbs of grain so again it will work for your 2 gallon batch or a 5 gallon batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a &lt;strong&gt;small ice chest&lt;/strong&gt;. This is where I modified my BIAB routine. I still keep the grains in the bag but I mash inside a small ice chest because it keeps the heat for a full hour. The taller ones work best for small batches, and its nice to have the whole to drain out of into your pot. You probably already have this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need something to ferment in. The best way to get &lt;strong&gt;1 gallon glass jars&lt;/strong&gt; is buying sangria at your local grocery store. I can usually get a gallon of it in a glass jar for $9. A 1 gallon empty from the brew store is $6. You will want 2-3 of them. (The third is just in case you overshoot your quantity a little, or want to ferment multiple batches)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you will also want an &lt;strong&gt;auto siphon, funnel, stir stick, 3 piece air locks and stoppers&lt;/strong&gt; (6.5 size fits those 1 gallon jugs, if I remember right). Then 1 or 2 liter/20 oz soda bottles make great cheap bottling items. All of these items are needed for any size batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a bit of equipment but you may already have some, and it should be fairly inexpensive to get them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other tips for such small batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boil 3 gallons of water in your pot for an hour on the same stove you are going to use. How much water did you lose? I need to start with 3 gallons to end up with something like 1.8 gallons after mashing and boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you have a scale to measure your hops? At such small amounts slight mis measures make a larger difference.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1 gallon batches is VERY hard to get the same amount of water at the end of boil. How vigorous you boiled makes a much bigger difference is such a small amount of wort. This is the biggest reason why I moved up to 2 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T13:56:46.620" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-24T15:03:34.900" Score="1" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happens on a good number of my brews, but if I stick my nose right up to the airlock, or into the ale pail with the lid off (don't do this often), I get an intense solvent-like smell, like to the point where I reel back.  I haven't had any hugely noticeable off-flavors, but wanted to know if this indicated a process flaw.  I'm hoping its just the production of fusels that will eventually get cleaned up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pitched at 75, dialed back to 66 within 12 hours, per Chris White's recommendation, then as airlock activity slowed, crept up temp 1 degree per day until it reached 70.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T15:26:02.080" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T15:50:43.873" Title="What is/causes a solvent-like aroma from airlock" Tags="|off-flavor|blow-off-tube|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7352" CreationDate="2012-07-24T15:50:43.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of 2 things...it might be CO2 coming from the airlock.  It might also be fusel alcohols from fermenting at such high temps.  In spite of what Chris White says, my own experience is that my beers come out much better fermenting at lower temps.  Don't let someone else tell you what to do when your own experience says otherwise!  It might also be a combo of CO2 and fusels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T15:50:43.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7356" CreationDate="2012-07-24T15:52:05.213" Score="4" ViewCount="1555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to make a batch of wort to be stored in 1 quart jars to make starters from.  I'd like to add the yeast nutrient (diammonium phosphate and yeast hulls) at this time so I don't have to mix it when making the starter.  How much (per gallon) should I use?  The directions suggest adding 1/2 tsp per 5 gal of wort when making beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I don't know what I'll be brewing in advance, I'd like something that works for as many different types as possible.  Is there a difference in the amount of nutrient needed for, an ale starter vs. a lager starter or a 1 stage vs. 2 stage starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T18:16:52.603" Title="How much yeast nutrient does starter wort need?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7271" CreationDate="2012-07-24T16:54:08.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really hard to tell the difference just based on Lovibond.. You can have 2 different 350L US chocolate malt that taste very different to each other. Reason being 350L only tells you the finished darkness of the malt, but it does not tell you how its kilned ie, short time in high heat, or long time in a staggered temperature schedule. It all makes a big difference!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But rule of thumb is the UK chocolate malts have a more pronounced chocolate and nutty taste than the US ones. Its also kiln darker. Seems to me most of my favourite american craft stouts and porters uses UK maltsters for their chocolate and roasted or black barley, with thomas fawcett being the highest rated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2570" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T16:54:08.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7354" CreationDate="2012-07-24T18:16:52.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For starter wort you can use the 1/2 tsp and a sachet of yeast hulls, although I usually double this, just to make sure the yeast have all they need. I've even used 1/2 tsp in a single 1 quart starter with no ill effects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast hulls are necessary since they contain trace elements that are essential for the yeast. The diammonium phosphate is only really needed if the wort is deficient in nitrogen or phosphates - not usually the case if making from extract or an AG brew, since the grain provides plenty. Still, it does no harm to add it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use the same wort/nutrients regardless of the yeast type - it's the size of the starter that counts, and by using a larger quantity of wort, you naturally have also more nutrients. Similarly, there's no need to differentiate wort from the first or second stage of a starter. When cultivating from 10ml slants, I use the same wort for all 3 stages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T18:16:52.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="198" CreationDate="2012-07-24T19:16:48.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that carbonating through a tube that's submerged in the beer is faster, for example through the dip tube, by attaching the CO2 to the out line, or using a special &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/18212/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carbonating keg lid&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also make your own DIY carbonating lid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard this method can cut the time in half or better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never tried this though, so I can't vouch for it's efficacy. I've heard it has pros and cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T19:16:48.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7346" CreationDate="2012-07-24T19:31:09.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brooklynbrewshop.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brooklyn Brew Shop&lt;/a&gt; is a cool startup company that exclusively sells 1 gallon all-grain kits. They are basically BIAB, though they use a strainer in their demo video because it's not a lot of grain. They are very popular and the company is doing well. They have some great videos on their site showing the process. The equipment included is a one gallon glass jug, a screw top topper and airlock, tubing, clamps, racking cane and sanitizer. You can get all this stuff from any online homebrew store and most local shops as well. The ingredients include milled grains, hops, dry yeast and sometimes extras (spices). The kits with equipment are $40 and ingredient kits are $15. You would still need a 2-3 gallon pot. Again, their instructions have you use a metal strainer for sparging, though you could easily do this with a mesh grain bag (or skip the sparge). You may be better off buying hops and yeast locally, they will be refrigerated and likely more fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T20:00:29.883" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T20:00:29.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6405" CreationDate="2012-07-25T19:27:43.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of making my first beer that contains vanilla. I bought a pack of 8 beans for $4. I cut two of them down the middle and placed them in the boil for the last 5 minutes. I cut the other six up and partially smashed them. They are soaking in 4.5oz of vodka and I will be filtering them and adding the liquid when I place the batch in secondary. I figured they would fare better than using extract during the boil, so that's why I chose them over using the extract. I'm pretty excited for this batch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastEditorUserId="2569" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T14:17:51.993" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T14:17:51.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6405" CreationDate="2012-07-25T19:53:29.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a vanilla stout and I found that 2T of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/nielsen-massey-vanilla/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this vanilla extract&lt;/a&gt; was too little for a 5G batch.  Next time I make it I'll double that amount.  The beer was excellent after two weeks of bottle conditioning, but by four weeks the vanilla was almost imperceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T19:53:29.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7388" CreationDate="2012-07-26T17:57:33.560" Score="6" ViewCount="6685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just set up a new kegerator with a corny and 5 lb CO2 tank. I turned the tank on and at first I had a leak I could hear/feel, but I tightened everything and sprayed with starsan and don't see any bubbles now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, every few hours since I started carbonating (it's been about 10 hours) the pressure on the keg decreases from 15 psi where I started down to 10 psi. The pressure on the CO2 tank started at 50 psi and is down to 45 or so. I haven't been able to find info on whether this is normal. The beer and CO2 may have decreased in temperature since I started, because it had only been in the fridge a few hours when I started carbonating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal, i.e. the CO2 is absorbing, or is it possible that I have a leak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T19:05:14.920" Title="Why is the pressure slowly decreasing when force carbonating a corny keg?" Tags="|carbonation|co2|corny-keg|pressure|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7366" CreationDate="2012-07-26T20:51:02.577" Score="5" ViewCount="1498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to brew a stronger wheat ale, and after 9 days in primary, I seem to be stuck at 1.025. My OG was 1.070 and I pitched a smack pack of Wyeast Bavarian Wheat at about 70F. I had a very vigorous early fermentation (first time i've every had to use a blowoff with a bucket), and fermented at a little higher than usual temps (averaged around 72 degrees). My question is, can I kick start the fermentation at this point to knock off a few more points? I would ideally like to end up around 1.010. I've tried swirling the bucket to stir up the yeast a little, but I don't want to go crazy and accidentally oxidize or taint it at this point. Here are some things I was considering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil a few ounces of water and mix in some yeast food and add that to the primary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy another smack pack of the same yeast, and add it to the primary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both 1 and 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts? Is it even worth it at this point? I tasted my sample after I measured the gravity, and it was delicious, so I don't want to ruin the batch. I just wanted to try to make a non-traditional stronger wheat ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance,&#xA;Ryan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T23:53:51.803" Title="Wheat Ale &quot;stuck&quot; at 1.025?" Tags="|fermentation|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7310" CreationDate="2012-07-26T20:55:48.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try blending it with another beer, probably would do this when serving. It might taste good mixed with something that has a similar malt profile but obviously less bitterness, maybe a pale ale. In case this sounds weird to you, remember people have been doing it for a long time. Two popular examples are a black &amp;amp; tan - a blend of dark and light beer, or a gueuze, which is a blend of lambics of different ages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T20:55:48.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7368" CreationDate="2012-07-26T21:03:46.453" Score="3" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few days ago I brewed a 5-gallon recipe with the following fermentables:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 oz Crystal 20&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 oz Crystal 40&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One 3.3 lb can Briess Munich LME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.5 lb Light LME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Calculus&lt;/a&gt; predicts an OG of 1.046.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first time in years, I got distracted for a moment and there was a boil-over. This is an annoying complication to my question (which is coming below). I don't believe too much was lost during the boil-over. I know I started with about 1.5 gallons of water when I mashed the grains. After removing the (waterlogged) grains and sparging with maybe a quart of water, I added the syrups. After the boil-over, I noted that I still had about 1.5 gallons in the pot. Now, having cleaned up the mess, I'd say about a pint of wort was lost to my stove top. When I consider the water that would have been removed with the grains, I feel like these numbers add up, but I'll let the experts weigh in on that. If I'm right about losing a pint when there were 2 gallons total, that would reduce Beer Calculus's OG estimate to about 1.043&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I finished my brewing, and topped off the carboy to 5 gallons. After I pitched the yeast, I took a gravity reading: 1.030. That seems incredibly low! At first, I told myself that the combination of losing some concentrated wort during the boil-over and a low efficiency from the mashing might explain it. So I told myself whatever happens will happen with this batch, and I went to bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this morning I had another memory/realization. My girlfriend and I both noticed a ring about 1/3 of the way up in the carboy after the brewing. It was a ring of particulate inside the wort. I thought that was neat - there was a little meteorogical system in the carboy. Liquid of a heavier density had settled to the bottom and the particulate was floating on top of it. Possibly relevant - I used Irish moss in this batch (1/2 tsp for 10 min) which I do not normally use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wonder: could my low OG reading be (in significant part) because I sampled from the top, where the less dense liquid was? Or is this just wishful thinking? I've never before seen the layering I saw with this batch. Does anyone else see that in their recipes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastEditorUserId="2073" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T21:16:38.143" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T08:41:22.290" Title="Can wort layering significantly affect OG reading?" Tags="|wort|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7363" CreationDate="2012-07-26T21:07:00.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well 1010 is likely not attainable as that would be around 80% attenuation.  You are currently at ~66% attenuation.  If you've roused the yeast I'd give it until at least 14 days, but a 1070 OG to me would warrant 21 days.  I am a patient brewer however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bucket is full of CO2 so gently swirl away until you think the yeast is sufficiently roused.  Give it another week before you check the gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T21:07:00.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7362" CreationDate="2012-07-26T21:10:42.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its likely the decrease in perceived pressure as the tank is chilling in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T21:10:42.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7365" CreationDate="2012-07-26T22:19:35.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, you've got it.  I've seen it and had it happen many times before I started doing full boils.  Even when you think you've got it well mixed, you probably haven't! Since you use extract, it's going to be more accurate to calculate the OG than measure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T22:19:35.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7370" CreationDate="2012-07-26T22:37:31.417" Score="2" ViewCount="3593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a five cubic foot chest freezer converted into a kegerator. Since I set this up, I've had a standard regulator and one corny or sixth barrel sanke keg in there at a time. I'm planning to slowly upgrade to having 3-4 kegs total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if it is horribly inconvenient (or even possible) to try to use a single body regulator with a gas manifold/distributor if you are trying to dispense from 1-2 kegs while force carbonating another. Is it worthwhile to splurge on the nice dual-body regulator, or is that unnecessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/double-gas-regulator.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dual-body regulator&lt;/a&gt; I've been looking at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T18:45:50.950" Title="Is a dual-body CO2 regulator worth the additional cost?" Tags="|keg|co2|kegerator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7369" CreationDate="2012-07-27T02:24:32.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That dual regulator is only necessary if you want beers at different carb levels. For the most part though I have never needed that set up.  I have a simple single regulator and a 4 point manifold.  Each point has its own on off switch.  So when I want to dispense beer they are all open, but if I am carbing up a new beer, I close down three of them and carb the other beer.  If I need to serve switch off the one and open up the other.  In general its good practice to not leave the kegs continuously hooked up to gas in case of a leak.  So you always have a gas line free for carbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T02:24:32.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7369" CreationDate="2012-07-27T18:45:50.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Force carbonating is the main reason you'd want to have a dual regulator, but I'd rather have two co2 tanks, each with their own regulator.  I use one tank for force carbonating 1-2 kegs, and I have another tank for serving 3 kegs. I prefer this set up because when one tank is empty, I can easily switch over to the other tank.  No need to suffer without beer for a day until I fill the empty tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2574" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T18:45:50.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7365" CreationDate="2012-07-28T08:41:22.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can make a huge difference. The wort is much higher density than the top-up water, so it will happily sit on the bottom of the carboy pretty much undisturbed until it's mixed well with the top up water. Shaking the carboy can help remove the stratification, so you get a more reliable reading, and also helps introduce oxygen into the wort, which will improve yeast growth and fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T08:41:22.290" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-30T05:31:15.857" Score="3" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a recipe for making sake, that came with my koji-kin, but I can't find any mention of adding flavoring. I want to be able to add canned plums to my sake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;recipe ingredients&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 liters water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.3lbs rice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;.9lbs kome-koji&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;.18oz citric acid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;.18oz yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2578" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T08:09:53.787" Title="How do I incorporate canned plums into sake" Tags="|sake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7363" CreationDate="2012-07-30T13:28:21.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that wheat beers tend to have more protein and other non-fermentable compounds in solution compared to pure barley grain bills (that's what makes it cloudy) -- resulting in higher FG. That said, I think you would need an unusually large amount of nonfermentables to finish at 1.020+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider pitching more yeast and seeing if you can't get it down to around 1.010 - 1.015 range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T13:28:21.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7079" CreationDate="2012-07-30T13:38:25.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say you might be fine. Since a carboy has a slim neck, you probably didn't get too much oxygen in while the CO2 escaped. Is there any reaon not to do the &quot;puff&quot; test now? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to bottle with a lot of gas in the bottles, you could get exploding bottles, corks shooting off or simply sparkling wine - depending on the amount of CO2 left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T13:38:25.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7363" CreationDate="2012-07-30T18:40:52.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you pitched only a smack pack into a 1.070 wort, you severely underpitched.  You may have continued issues with it.  See mrmalty.com for correct pitching rates and techniques for making a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T18:40:52.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7378" CreationDate="2012-07-30T20:01:15.317" Score="2" ViewCount="2347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a batch and let it set in the carboy for 2 weeks. When it was transfered to the bottling bucket we noticed that it was a little carbonated already, which seemed odd. We ignored it and proceeded on to keg it like normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It measured a FG of about 1.002. Which was another red flag but it was not insanely lower than the &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/1519282/american-wheat-or-rye-beer-recipes/rye-ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;projected&lt;/a&gt; 1.008.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The really odd part was when sugar was added to the keg for it to prime. Right when the sugar was poured into the beer it started overflowing the keg, and sort of foamed but mostly just gushed out, and was pretty neat/messy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any ideas what could have caused this effect?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We tasted the beer used to calculate the FG and it tasted good. No noticeable off flavors. One thought was that we did mash at 144, but I don't see how that could effect the carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I am writing this question a few days after the case and have had time to think I wondered if it could have been that the 3 piece was partly blocked from foam but not enough to push it off? I did not notice any hiss, or oddities from the 3 piece when I opened it, although I had &quot;tasted&quot; a few brews by that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: fixed FG to take temp into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastEditorUserId="120" LastEditDate="2012-07-30T20:51:41.043" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T17:22:05.903" Title="Carbonated in carboy from primary fermentation?" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7377" CreationDate="2012-07-30T22:22:50.430" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently fermented beer will have co2 still dissolved from fermentation at atmospheric pressure - ca. 14.5psi. The amount dissolved depends upon temperature, which is why priming calculations always ask for the fermentation temperature to estimate how much co2 is in the beer already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you add the sugar to the keg, the granules of sugar have a high surface area relative to their volume, and act as nucleation sites allowing the co2 to quickly come out of solution, creating thousands of tiny bubbles. This creates the large head of foam that you saw. It's the same as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newscientist.com/article/dn14114-science-of-mentosdiet-coke-explosions-explained.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dropping mentos in diet coke&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: There are a couple of comments that doubt this is a frequent occurrence, so I'll try to expand the answer to clear that up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With fermentation under an airlock, the fermentation vessel becomes filled with CO2 at atmospheric pressure which dissolves into the beer. Eventually the beer has absorbed all the CO2 it can at that temperature and pressure - it is saturated with CO2. The BYO article &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/21-carbonation/1276-priming-with-sugar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Priming with Sugar&lt;/a&gt; discusses this process in detail, and has a graph showing residual CO2 and temperature. At 66F, the residual CO2 is just under 0.9 volumes, so, just a little less than the volume of the beer itself. It's then not hard to see there's more than enough CO2 in the beer to fill the headspace several times over. The sugar falling through the beer causes a lot of the CO2 to quickly effervesce  creating bubbles and foam which fills and overflows the headspace in the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to avoid this is to boil the sugar in water - this sterilizes it and also greatly reduces the nucleation sites, reducing the amount of foam to almost none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-07-31T17:22:05.903" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T17:22:05.903" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7380" CreationDate="2012-07-31T15:14:44.863" Score="3" ViewCount="2365" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have posted this question on other forums but haven't really gotten a good answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am attempting to create a sweet mead and want to avoid backsweetening (lots of additional tweaking) or killing fermentation at a certain point (lots of putting my hands in the fermenter, as a beer brewer something I'm not super comfortable with yet). Can I use a lower alcohol tolerance yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my calculated OG (this may change) I'm looking at 1.122. This is capable of fermenting up to around 15.6% abv. I'd like to stop it around 14-15%. If I use a yeast with a tolerance of 14% (Lalvin 71B or d47), this should leave a significant amount of sugars in the mead by the time the yeast gives out, right? Sugar left means sweet, and the luscious mouthfeel I am looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what would the impact on the yeast do? Fusel alcohols? Off flavors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to fumble through this and most of the reading I've found (compleat meadmaker, wild about wines, and the gotmead forum) doesn't do really cover intentionally using a lower tolerance yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2582" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T22:25:58.557" Title="Using a low alcohol tolerance yeast in potentially high alcohol must" Tags="|yeast|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7379" CreationDate="2012-07-31T22:25:58.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can pitch a low alcohol yeast and it will stop fermenting when it reaches it's alcohol tolerance, leaving your mead sweet due to the residual sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to consider that the exact ABV at which the yeast stops working is variable and may not match exactly what is on the package.  If necessary, you could add more sugar or honey after fermentation is halted if it still isn't sweet enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the added stress on the yeast, there may be an increase in unwanted substances such as fusel alcohols, however the sweetness should be more than enough to mask any unpleasant taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T22:25:58.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7363" CreationDate="2012-07-31T23:53:51.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One smack pack, no starter = underpitched.  1.010 is also unrealistic, you're looking for about 85% attenuation from a yeast that does 70-76% per Wyeast (assuming Bavarian Wheat 3638).  I figure you are under 65% now, so there is room for improvement.  I'd give it a lot more time and consider bumping up the temperature to close to 75 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continue to rouse, your beer should have enough CO2 to keep it safe.  I've let primary go for months with no ill affect.  I'm leery of adding more yeast as flavor may be affected, but if you're up to it, it may help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T23:53:51.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7383" CreationDate="2012-08-01T00:25:40.410" Score="4" ViewCount="2255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to get some ideas on my next course of action for a &quot;stuck brew&quot;. I am brewing a Saison (first one). My fermentation room is up around 82F so a Saison seemed like the perfect fit. &#xA;The recipe is: 1.5lb Pilsner malt, 1 lb table sugar, 0.8lb wheat, 0.8lb Munich, 0.8lb Cara-munich. I used a single infusion for a mash temp of 149F held for 60 min. I did not mash out. I had a final gravity of 1.064 (6 gal). I ended up having to add 0.4 lbs of LDME to meet my predicted final gravity of 1.064 after getting 65% efficiency rather then my planned 70%. The LDME was added at the beginning of the 90 min boil, with the table sugar added in the last 15 min. I used Wyest 3724 Belgian Saison in a 2L starter. Fermentation started by the next morning. The fermentation room has stay around 82F, however the beer has been in the carboy since July 6. For the last 10-14 days the gravity has stayed around 1.030. I was anticipated an FG of at least 1.010. Any thoughts on what to do next? Help!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T20:49:38.770" Title="Saison stuck at 1.030" Tags="|fermentation|saison|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7382" CreationDate="2012-08-01T01:27:57.957" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just leave it another couple of weeks - that strain is notorious for stalling after a quick start, but it will pick up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wyeast yeast strain guide for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=60&quot;&gt;3274&lt;/a&gt; says this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This strain is notorious for a rapid and vigorous start to&#xA;  fermentation, only to stick around 1.035 S.G. Fermentation will&#xA;  finish, given time and warm temperatures. Warm fermentation&#xA;  temperatures at least 90°F (32°C) or the use of a secondary strain can&#xA;  accelerate attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, simply leave it for a 7-10 days, and check again. If still no difference, raise the temperature to 90-95F and check again. Finally, pitch a secondary yeast, such as US-05 which will dry out the beer without adding any additional character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not get down to 1.010 since that would be 84% attenuation, which is very much on the top end (although I've experienced that 3724 can do that and more.) The recipe contains a sizeable amount of Caramel malts which provide unfermentables, as does the DME, so your FG may come out higher than the 1.010 you are hoping for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T01:27:57.957" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7389" CreationDate="2012-08-01T20:41:41.277" Score="5" ViewCount="925" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now I'm a stove top partial mash brewer.&#xA;I have a 4 gallon pot that I use as my HLT, a 5 gallon igloo cooler as my mash tun and a 7.5 gallon Polarware kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are moving out of our apartment and buying a house and I will finally have the opportunity to brew outside and do full boils and start transitioning to All-Grain brewing.&#xA;Our house only has a car port instead of a garage, but I will have a large storage shed in the backyard to store my equipment, so I want to make sure my set up is portable so I can move it to the driveway easily on brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately I would like to upgrade to the Blichmann Top Tier system. I like keeping things gravity fed for the time being (I've seen my friend struggle with his pump at times on his Sabco system and don't want to deal with that for now).&#xA;I would turn my Polarware kettle into my new HLT, switch my mash manifold over to a 10 gallon cooler and I would start with a new kettle, either the Blichmann 15 gallon or a 15.5 gallon Keggle. I want to be flexible enough to do 10 gallon batches in the future. I know I would have to redrill a hole and move the thermometer down on the Blichmann for 5 gallon batches.&#xA;Anyone have a suggestion on either one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And since I want to upgrade to the Blichmann Top Tier in the future I was thinking of getting a Blichmann burner with the 24&quot; leg extensions.&#xA;Has anyone used one of these? I'm just wondering if it is tall enough to drain my HLT into my cooler and then drain the kettle into the carboy or would it have to be propped up even higher for it to be gravity fed?&#xA;Right now I use an immersion chiller, but in the future I would like to get the Therminator and then I believe I would need it even higher then the 24&quot; that the burner legs extend it. I guess prop it up in cinder blocks would work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone else use a single burner system right now that has any suggestions?&#xA;I figure one burner will work for now where I can heat up my mash water and drain into the cooler, put the cooler on a table and drain the cooler into the kettle while my batch sparge water heats up on the burner. Drain the the sparge into the kettle and then move the kettle to the burner once I have all of my wort collected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2021" LastActivityDate="2021-06-15T18:46:53.410" Title="Advice for converting to outdoor propane brewing" Tags="|kettle|propane-burner|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7384" CreationDate="2012-08-01T21:17:42.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak to any of the Blichmann equipment, as I have none. With that said, I also run a single burner set up, and I would highly recommend you change the title of your 5 gallon cooler from 'mash tun' to 'hot liquor tank'. That is what I use and it works quite well...plus you have this already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you heat your mash water on the burner and mash in with that. While mashing, bring your sparge water up to temp on the burner. When ready to sparge, transfer your hot water to your 5 gal cooler. Now you can sparge and collect your wort in the pot directly on the burner...so you can be heating your drained wort throughout  your sparge. Without getting into a zillion other details RE: a potential set up, I will leave it at that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But besides, if you are going to drop the coin on the Blichmann 3-tier set up and Blichmann pots and burners etc. I would say there isn't much else left to the imagination...I would say there is a certain level of enjoyment/satisfaction when creating a brewing set up which is engineered and imagined by...you. To me, this is all part of the hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T21:17:42.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7384" CreationDate="2012-08-01T22:19:14.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to brew 10 gallons, I recommend the Blichmann pot, although I would go with the 20 gallon size - 15 gallons is on the small side for a boil kettle for 10 gallon batches. Here's why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 10 gallon batch, you'll typically want about 11.5-12 gallons at the end of boiling, to account for trub, losses to chiller, losses in the fermentor, hydrometer samples etc. A propane burner gives you a good rolling boil and a fairly high evaporation rate. I usually start with 15 gallons pre-boil and do a 90 minute boil, or 14 gallons for a 60 minute boil. While you could just about manage this in a 15 gallon kettle, you'd have to be constantly watching for boil-overs. If you brew pilsners, a 120 min boil is recommended - this would require you to add top up water, which is an additional inconvenience. The difference in price between the 15 and 20 gallon kettles is about $30 ($370 vs. $400), or less than 10%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T22:19:14.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7384" CreationDate="2012-08-02T01:24:43.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a single burner all grain brewer so I figured I would share my process.  Right now I have a 8.5g polarware kettle w/ thermometer and ball valve, a 4g pot for an HLT and a 10g igloo mash tun.  My typical setup is heat the mash water in my polarware kettle, and then mash in to the cooler.  Then, depending on how much sparge water (I batch sparge) I either heat the sparge water in my 4g HLT and drain the mash directly into the big kettle, or if I need more sparge water I heat it in the big kettle, drain the mash into the 4g pot, and then transfer that to the big kettle and drain the sparge into that (so an extra transfer step). I typically start heating my sparge water w/ about 15-20 minutes left to go in the mash, however, this will depend on how fast your burner will heat your water.  I have the 3 leg Bayou Classic burner which is amazing for the price btw.  To drain the mash tun into my kettle I have a little table that I set the cooler on and then drain into my kettle which is on the ground.  I might build a taller stand so that I can drain the mash tun into the kettle on top of the burner so that I don't have to lift it off the ground, but its not that big of a problem currently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My ideal setup is to get a 10g kettle for doing the boils in as the 8.5g gets a little tight w/ boiling roughly 6.5g to get down to about 5.25 after chill.  I would then use the 8.5g for the HLT.  Everything I have read (post getting my kettle) says that if you are going to do 5g batches, you should have a 10g kettle and if you want to 10g batches, have a 20g kettle (so double the size).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, thats my process hope it helps, and congrats on the new place!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T01:24:43.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7362" CreationDate="2012-08-02T08:19:58.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have multiple effects at work here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one, the carbonation is about absorbing CO2 into the beer. This process lowers the CO2 pressure in the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second point is, that while cooling the beer and the tank, you make the beer able to absorb more CO2, while also reducing the volume of the gas - both  in the keg and in the tank.  That will lead to a somewhat lower pressure in the tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third thing is, that allthough you have the first two point at work almost certainly (I cannot think of a reason why not) you still might have a leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would leave the gas connected for a while and check regulary if the pressure is still falling in the tank. After about 1-2 weeks of this, you shouldn't have it falling anymore, and a significant slowdown before that. If you are good with math, you can calculate how much the pressure should fall if you are carbonating, but I don't have any formulas for this at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T08:19:58.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7384" CreationDate="2012-08-02T12:19:59.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Blichmann burner with the leg extensions, and to that point, you may need a platform to set it on to do all of your gravity feeding.   I gravity feed from the kettle on the burner to the mash tun (48qt cooler sitting on top of a 5 gallon bucket), and usually have to lift the kettle and pour out the last gallon or so when the mash tun is full, because the water level is about the same between the two vessels.   Using something slightly shorter than a 5 gallon bucket would solve that (or a shallower, wider mash tun), but I can't put it on the ground because I use a pump to transfer wort, and I find that the height of the bucket is reasonably comfortable for stirring the grain into the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T12:19:59.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7391" CreationDate="2012-08-03T16:41:40.707" Score="2" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't done any brewing this summer because when I brewed some mead last summer, my apartment was very warm during the days, and I think this higher brewing temperature was related to some solvent-y flavours that some people detected in that batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to start a batch now to be ready later in the fall, but it's still rather warm (gets close to 30C indoors in the daytime) in my apartment. I don't have a budget for a temperature controlled fermenter. I make small batches (5 Litres) and the fermenting jar will fit nicely into a small picnic cooler. My plan was to put a few freezer-packs into an inch of water inside the picnic cooler to lower the temperature overnight and then put the fresh wort in the next day (in contact with the cold water at the bottom to keep it cooler). I imagine I'd have to change the freezer-packs twice a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a good idea? I know that the process of fermentation itself will generate a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; bit of heat and while I don't &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; it's enough to overwhelm the freezer-packs and overheat the inside of the cooler, I'm not 100% sure about that. Has anyone used this method before? Does it work (or sound like should work), or should I wait for cooler weather?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T17:19:11.417" Title="Freezer-pack-based cooling" Tags="|chiller|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7390" CreationDate="2012-08-03T17:13:26.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do something similar, I keep my fermentor in a big rubbermaid bucket filled with cold water.  If I need to make it even colder I drop in water bottles that are filled with ice, as they melt, I swap them out for others and put them back in the freezer.  I don't have temp controlled fermentation (yet) and this method seems to help keep the ferm temp somewhat under control. I just have a thermometer strip attached to my bucket, however the water seems to ruin these, so I tape over them with clear packing tape, this seems to make them last longer (some water still gets in and ruins them after some time though).  Clearly this method doesn't beat a thermowell with a temp controller and fridge/freezer but it works in a pinch in the summer heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  I'm not sure this matters but I like to submerge as much of the fermentor in the water (below the lid obviously) to try and standardize the temp of the wort as much as possible.  I'm not sure what the effects of having only the bottom of the fermentor in cold water so that the bottom was colder than the top.  I like to try and keep the temp standard from top to bottom as much as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastEditorUserId="302" LastEditDate="2012-08-03T17:19:11.417" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T17:19:11.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7296" CreationDate="2012-08-03T18:59:38.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can make it with a vinegar mother or leaving it alone, with cheesecloth to keep out the flies. If you want a mother, you can get them a lot of places, even Amazon. Wine Spectator (or all places) has a great blurb on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do you make homemade red wine vinegar?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winespectator.com/drvinny/show/id/5023&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wine Spectator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think it hasn't been hit by bugs carrying acetobacter or another nasty bacteria, you could just put a cheesecloth or handkerchief over the mouth of the container and let it be to see if you get some. My own suggestion is to split the batch up and try a bunch of ways! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2587" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2018-09-09T17:01:38.797" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T17:01:38.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7281" CreationDate="2012-08-03T19:02:36.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Berliner at 1.010 will still have plenty of sugars left to feed the pellicle. Unless you see fuzz or smell something off (even for Berliner) then I wouldn't worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2587" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T19:02:36.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6793" CreationDate="2012-08-03T19:08:28.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it looks like you have a few distinct questions here. I'll try to answer them from experience and will provide evidence where I can.&#xA;1.) Yes, you can get your bitterness from late additions. Consider the technique of &quot;hop bursting.&quot; This is laid out well in Gordon Strong's &lt;em&gt;Brewing Better Beer&lt;/em&gt;, though you could read about it here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5063/hop-burst-technique-bitterness-calculation&quot;&gt;Hop burst technique &amp;amp; bitterness calculation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) I'm not familiar with the hops you mention, but the best test is going to be tasting or smelling the hops to see if they are too harsh-- often people avoid high alpha hops because they tend to have a 'harshness' to them from the alpha and or beta acids, and a lack of hop oils. You could try to dry-hop some existing beer with them, making a hop tea, or even running them through an aero-press (though the latter will pull out some oils). It will eventually be a judgement call as to whether they taste like Noble hops or not. I've judged excellent Pilsners that were made with American varieties, but still tasted correct due to the terrior, variety, and other growing conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2587" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T12:46:08.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7396" CreationDate="2012-08-03T20:00:57.583" Score="1" ViewCount="1808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a Belgian dubbel tomorrow and have a 3-lb can of pureed apricot. I don't know if I should add it into my primary after a few days of initial fermentation, or if I should wait a couple of weeks until I rack to secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantage and trade-offs between those two options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T17:09:45.703" Title="When should I add apricot puree to a Belgian beer?" Tags="|fruit|secondary|primary|belgian|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7395" CreationDate="2012-08-04T17:09:45.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The canned puree will be sterile, so the concern about having to wait until secondary to have the alcohol to help sanitize is a moot point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my mind, the tradeoff with adding late in primary or as part of secondary is really if there is enough yeast in secondary to consume the sugars in the fruit and clean up by-products from the primary ferment. When adding to secondary the fruit will stress what little yeast there is, producing esters. In a dubbel this might be desirable, but can be avoided if you deliberately rack some of the yeast into secondary. Alternatively, pitching the fruit halfway through primary, say after a week, will also be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd go with adding it towards the end of primary, skipping secondary and going straight to bottle or keg to keep in all that aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T17:09:45.703" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7400" CreationDate="2012-08-05T02:10:48.993" Score="0" ViewCount="3467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out how to connect some hose pipe to my kitchen faucet to pump water through an immersion chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The faucet has a male-threaded tip which screws out, so I believe there should be a faucet -&gt; hosepipe adaptor that I can find to make a secure connection. The piece has &quot;a112.18.1&quot; engraved on it, which may contain information on its dimensions, but my google-fu has not revealed anything useful there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked on Amazon, Home Depot, etc., and there are a lot of options (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0002APTXG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) that look like they are roughly what I need; any ideas how I can figure out exactly the part to order?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2451" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T11:41:16.940" Title="How to connect my immersion chiller to the faucet" Tags="|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-05T03:45:41.900" Score="0" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just ordered a 5 gallon &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/black-dog-ale.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Black Dog Ale&lt;/a&gt; kit from Midwest brewing supplies and I have some Saflager W-34/70 in my fridge. Would this be a good yeast to use or would I be better off with the Wyeast activator pack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-08-05T13:14:30.117" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T18:01:55.103" Title="Yeast in Black Dog Ale" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7397" CreationDate="2012-08-05T05:06:21.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can make it to a store, take off your aerator and take it with you to the suoer. Match it there to a male sink or thread,.then match they to the appropriate adaptor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were two other options to consider. One is to add another valve under the sink, by the shutoff valve. You can add a 't' and a second shutoff valve, then sweat our solder in a house pipe connector or QD after the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try using a 'quick shower' attachment that puts a rubber cup over the end of the faucet, just cut the other end of and house clamp to the chiller, but it can be touchy if too much flow comes out the faucet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2587" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T05:06:21.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7397" CreationDate="2012-08-05T11:41:16.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're chiller has garden hose adaptors on it you will simply want one of these:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/faucet-adapter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Faucet Adaptor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I haven't seen too many of these at the hardware store, but they are a common item at most LHBSs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ldEQ7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T11:41:16.940" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7398" CreationDate="2012-08-05T17:46:39.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you plan to brew this as an Ale rather than a Lager then you will need to find a different yeast. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/fo/pdf/HB/EN/Saflager_W-3470_HB.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;saflager W-34/70&lt;/a&gt; strain is a lager yeast, and ferments best at 12C/54F. This will take longer to ferment and will produce a different beer, certainly less sweet compared to the description on the recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would get a packet of safale US-05 and ferment with that at 66F/19C. This will give you a clean tasting, balanced ale. If you want more malt forward, you can try US-04, or White labs WLP002. The ferment will also be easier since it will be quicker, and you don't need a temperature controlled fermentation chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T17:46:39.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7406" CreationDate="2012-08-06T00:45:56.413" Score="4" ViewCount="1644" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Context:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing into small, split batches lately to test the effects of various additives. I've got some true cinnamon bark and cacao nibs which I am planning on crushing up, letting steep in alcohol (upper-shelf vodka) for a couple of weeks, and then pitching into 1gal batches of stout when I rack them into secondary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm adding these tinctures/flavorings into such small (1gal) batches of beer, I don't want to end up adding too much of the alcohol sanitizing/tincturing agent and messing up the beer. I'm hoping to dilute the alcohol with some water, so that there's enough to immerse (and thus sanitize and start infusing) the crushed-up flavorings without making my beer taste too much like vodka. What is the minimum safe solution of alcohol:water that will still result in &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a good, flavor-rich infusion, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a bacteria-free addition to secondary?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first point is less important: I can prolong the infusing process for months to get the proper flavor levels if need be, so long as the end product is sanitized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2232" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-08-06T12:20:46.387" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T03:59:52.023" Title="What solution of hard alcohol is sufficient to sanitize and infuse something for addition to a fermenting beer?" Tags="|flavor|secondary-fermentation|liquor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7402" CreationDate="2012-08-06T02:23:37.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak to your concern about the sanitizing effects of diluted vodka, but I'm not sure you're going to need so much volume that dilution is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you're OK with adding vodka to the beer as long as it doesn't raise the alcohol content by more than 0.5 % pts. So for a 1 gallon batch that's a maximum of 0.64 oz of ethanol you can add, or 1.6 oz of vodka. That seems like plenty to infuse a small amount of cinnamon, cacao, etc. Remember, a 1 gallon batch is only 8 pints of beer -- just how much cinnamon do you want to add?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As a side note, if you really do feel like you need more vodka volume, I wonder if you could gently simmer it on the stove after you've finished the infusion, to drive off some of the alcohol.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T02:23:37.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7373" CreationDate="2012-08-06T08:09:53.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you've innoculated and are ready for fermentation you can put them in.&#xA;You may want to add a Pectic Enzyme as well to break down the complex sugars and help with the clearing.&#xA;Depending on the pulpiness of the plums, you may need to rack and strain more.&#xA;You should also need only about 0.5 tsp of koji added to 400g of starter rice, which adds up to 0.9lbs just to clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2592" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T08:09:53.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5983" CreationDate="2012-08-06T08:45:53.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely, depending on your fermentation, you might have weak yeast cultures or poor nutrient which would develop much more esters, which are probably the taste you're describing. Having a fermentation that is too warm or too cold can also contribute to this.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381802&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here's a good mead book&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2592" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T08:45:53.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7402" CreationDate="2012-08-06T13:41:33.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few drops of vodka (or higher proof Everclear if you can get it) on top of the spices/additives, just enough to wet them. Let sit for 60 seconds and add to beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically, you probably would be fine adding them directly to the beer without sanitizing. Finished beer is aseptic enough to withstand additives without infecting, it's unfermented wort that you really have to be careful with. If you are worried, though, feel free to sanitize as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T13:41:33.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5983" CreationDate="2012-08-06T13:45:12.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those off flavors are almost certainly fusel alcohols. They tend to come out more with show meads because there aren't any additional flavorings or ingredients to mask the off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest controlling your fermentation temps and make sure you have adequate nutrition available for the yeast. Other than that, the best thing to do is age your mead properly for extended period of time (&gt;1 year).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T13:45:12.817" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7409" CreationDate="2012-08-06T14:29:29.843" Score="3" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought two 15.5 gallon kegs yesterday from a local brewery that is closing its doors. They asked for $15 each so there was no way I could pass them up. They are in great condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love to start using them sooner than later, but someone else beat me to the CO2 systems or I would have bought those, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, where could I find a good, reasonably priced CO2 system to use? I tested the kegs last night and there are no leaks. My party pump worked great on them and there were no issues with them. I figure the first time I'll use one will be for my birthday party in late November, so I have plenty of time to save for a decent setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my first kegs as I've always just used bottles. There was no way I could pass these kegs up for the price. Any info and tips that any of you have are also appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastEditorUserId="2569" LastEditDate="2012-08-06T14:57:52.100" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T20:37:56.833" Title="Got first 2 kegs and need advice" Tags="|equipment|kegging|keg|co2|kegerator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7408" CreationDate="2012-08-06T15:23:41.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's actually kind of difficult to use those kegs for serving, which is why you'll generally see homebrewers using 5 gal. keg for serving and reworking the 1/2 bbl. kegs into kettles.  To use the to serve, you need to remove the ring and spear, clean them, and then fill them.  You need to get the appropriate fittings for gas and serving.  You might want to consider using them for something other than serving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-08-06T20:37:56.833" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T20:37:56.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7408" CreationDate="2012-08-06T15:25:16.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need a keg coupler, a regulator, a CO2 tank, a tap and some line. Usually these items are sold as a package with the title &quot;fridge conversion kit&quot;, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/kegging/draft-systems/econo-fridge-conversion.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T15:25:16.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7362" CreationDate="2012-08-06T19:05:14.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is normal.  The pressure will decrease significantly when cold but don't know the specifics on why this happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you place it back in room temp, the regulator show the pre-cooled temp after a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2380" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T19:05:14.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7413" CreationDate="2012-08-07T04:18:20.503" Score="3" ViewCount="1559" Body="&lt;p&gt;Iv'e got a Doppelbock 1.090 brewed 7/19. Pitched the Whit Labs &quot;X&quot; at 60 deg. Placed the  carboy in the fridge (first time trying a lager fermentation). Two days later the beer was at 44-46(thats the highest temp I can get my fridge), fermentation was ok (again I'm used to ale temp fermentation), krausen was in between an inch and a half of an inch. I currently use a &quot;blow-off&quot; and the air bubble was always below the water level but never at the bottom of the tube. On the 31st (12 days later) my gravity was 1.050 so I decided to warm up the sluggish(?) fermentation by taking it out and wrapping it in a blanket (slow warm-up). Well we had a little heat wave here in Washington and according to the stick-on thermometer temp is now at the last square 76 deg. (currently 1.030)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is what can I expect, and what can I do? fermentation was more then 50% complete so at this point, so am I reducing diacetyls quicker at higher temp or did I not take it far enough? I'm assuming putting it back in the fridge isn't going to do me any good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also looking for advice on lager conditioning as well, this will be one of my wedding beers so I really would like it to be more then good (wedding 9/29)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help guys!! sorry about the length of this question &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T12:27:52.670" Title="Doppelbock fermentation and lagering question!" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|lager|lagering|doppelbock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7412" CreationDate="2012-08-07T12:27:52.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well first of all, you can't really turn around a 1.090 Lager in two months time (7/19 - 9/29). Its going to need 3 months of lagering minimum AFTER fermentation is totally done. So if you really want beer that's &quot;more than good&quot; for your wedding, then you need to brew a backup Ale right now that has a short maturation period. (&lt;em&gt;I suggest a wheat beer, like a Hefeweizen or a Blue Moon clone. Seriously, people love those beers. I would not expect a 1.090 Doppelbock to go over well at a wedding at all, unless the entire group are beer snobs.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, lager fermentations are often much slower than ales. You did not need to warm that beer up by much (I shoot for around 52F), and it probably would have been perfectly fine to ferment a while longer at 46F. A diactyl rest at elevated temps should have been started when that beer was around 1.030, not 1.050, so the impact of this is that you will get a bit of extra flavor from esters thrown by the yeast at 76F. If you try to drop the temp now, you run the risk of the lager yeast going to sleep prematurely, before fermentation and cleanup is done. (&lt;em&gt;I'm not sure how sensitive your lager strain is to temp drops. Lagers handle it better than ales but I wouldnt drop the temp by more than 5-8 degrees suddenly.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, (1) don't drop the temp now because it will do more harm than good, (2) the beer probably won't be ideal, as it has fermented too much at high temps, and (3) you really need 3-4 months lagering for a Bock that big, for future reference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T12:27:52.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7402" CreationDate="2012-08-07T15:21:32.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered using Star-San or some other no-rinse sanitizer?  I routinely rack into containers that are still wet from sanitizing, and have never had any ill effects or off-flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I also agree with @bk0 -- I think you'd be fine to rack directly on top of any flavorings or additives, as long as they aren't fresh fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T15:21:32.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2012-08-07T16:11:28.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fluke-brewing.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://fluke-brewing.blogspot.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2594" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T16:11:28.187" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-08-07T16:11:28.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7433" CreationDate="2012-08-07T18:31:29.503" Score="2" ViewCount="1404" Body="&lt;p&gt;TLDR:  I have no idea how much top-cropped yeast to pitch into a ~1.055 OG Octoberfest (5.5 gallons)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on making an Octoberfest (late I know) on August 18th.  Instead of making a boring old starter, I decided to spring for some ingredients and use up the Northern Brewer hops in my freezer and make a steam, which I will do on August 10th.  While different from San Fransisco Lager Yeast, Wyeast's bavarian lager has very similar characteristics (and is likely distantly related) to the SF lager yeast typically used in steams.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I'm planning on making a 1.5L starter + yeast nutrient with the BL yeast (smack pack), pitching in the low 60s for the steam.  Then I am planning on top-cropping as much as I can at high krausen (24-36 hours?) off the steam, harvesting into a sanitized mason jar, and pitching that into my Octoberfest Lager at around 50 degrees.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this being my first lager, I am obviously worried about stressing the yeast, excessive sulphur production, etc., however the proprietor of my LHBS told me that it was not advisable to pitch onto an existing yeast cake.  I had heard this wasn't a good idea (but not a horrible idea), as there is a lot of other material in this (dead cells, trub, etc.), but he mainly cited the fact that if you overpitch, the cells won't need to grow, and they will actually competitively crowd each other out/kill each other (!).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am left with a few alternatives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.)  top crop and grow a 1.5-2 L starter for the Oktoberfest&#xA;2.)  top crop and pitch as-is (maybe a cup?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  someone on another site just commented that I won't be able to top crop since this is a lager yeast.  aka.  a BOTTOM fermenting yeast.  Even if there is a krausen, it doesn't sound like it will have huge amounts of yeast cells in it.  Maybe I'll just reserve some of my steam starter and do a second starter...making this entire exercise circuitous and pointless.  Gotta love homebrewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T18:54:11.623" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T13:10:31.347" Title="Top Cropping Cell Counts" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7382" CreationDate="2012-08-07T20:49:38.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your next one, you may want to consider WLP 566, which IIRC is derived/genetically selected from Dupont WLP565/Wy3724.  I took a 1.1 Saison/Tripel down to 1.015, but it took about 45 days.  I did use a lower temperature (I think in the mid-70s), as I wanted to limit phenols and esters, and have it just be the hint of saisony barnyardiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T20:49:38.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7431" CreationDate="2012-08-07T23:35:21.823" Score="5" ViewCount="1161" Body="&lt;p&gt;Degassing CO2 during early fermentation is important for wine and mead. But why not for beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting back into mead making and see plenty of references to degassing the must during early fermentation, or not using an airlock. But little mention of this in beer brewing. Is CO2 not toxic to beer yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T04:26:59.287" Title="Yeast, CO2 Toxicity with mead and beer" Tags="|beer|yeast|mead|co2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7402" CreationDate="2012-08-08T03:59:52.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disinfection (99.9% kill) occurs with 62% ethyl alcohol with a wet contact time of about 30 seconds. Note that hand sanitizers are required to have &quot;at least 62% ethyl alcohol&quot;. I'm doubting that you have vodka that is over 120 proof that you would want to waste on sanitizing something for a brew!!!!! I've always found pasteurizing, or even boiling with a small amount of water works the best. Make the smallest &quot;tea&quot; that you can with your addition, cool it and add it to your mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T03:59:52.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-08T13:15:22.643" Score="0" ViewCount="2315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a freezer that I use for temp control.  However, it's been unplugged all summer and its growing mold.  Is this going to be harmful to my respiratory system for me to open and clean it?  What precautions should I take? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T05:16:40.197" Title="harmful mold growing in fermentation freezer?" Tags="|sanitation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2012-08-08T14:10:00.000" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just pry 'er open and dive in. You may also want to enlist the help of a rag and some 409. But I would say that is all the reinforcements you will be needing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sooner you get it clean, the sooner you can make beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T14:10:00.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7423" CreationDate="2012-08-08T16:51:39.207" Score="4" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I attempted my first yeast washing last night after bottling. I added 1 quart of boiled-then-cooled water to my carboy, swished the yeast cake into suspension, then filled 2 quart jars, each about 3/4th's full. After about 30 minutes there was maybe 1/2&quot; of seperation. At this time, I really needed to get to bed so I let it sit overnight. In the morning (about 7 hours later) there was a lot more seperation, but the top layer was much clearer than any of the videos I've watched online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is it possible too much of the yeast fell out of suspension? Also, I'm confused if there is anything else that needs to be in the jars besides water and yeast cake. Does it need nutrients? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2101" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T18:54:27.507" Title="Yeast Washing - danger in long seperation times?" Tags="|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7422" CreationDate="2012-08-08T18:53:56.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is any danger in the timing, but if your sample contained a lot of trub, having it all settle out with the majority of the yeast defeats the purpose of the wash.  If you can see two distinct layers formed in the bottom you likely have a lot of trub in there and I'd suggest agitating things again so you can pour off the yeast while it's still in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2436" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T18:53:56.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7422" CreationDate="2012-08-08T18:54:27.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there is no danger in leaving it longer and getting more separation. If anything, it means you get even more yeast, although the amount is only a few percent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a lot of trub, then you may want to pour off the yeast into a different vessel to separate it from the trub. The trub falls quickest, so this will be at the bottom of your jar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Store the jar in the fridge. No need for nutrients. You can pitch directly if used within 2 weeks. Longer than that and it's best to make a starter and pitch the actively fermenting yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T18:54:27.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2012-08-08T20:13:20.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are allergic, you could have a pretty good reaction.  I also wouldn't want to spread spores all around my house.  Is it in a garage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mold spores are big enough to filter some with a dust mask.  One webpage I saw said 10 to 30 microns.  This site says 1 to 100: &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.mnstate.edu/ehs/Health&amp;amp;Safety/moldspores.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://web.mnstate.edu/ehs/Health&amp;amp;Safety/moldspores.cfm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dust masks are relatively effective: you should be able to find one that goes to less than a micron for the smallest size particle it filters.  I've seen 0.3 microns for the smallest effective size. Like here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.filtera.com/3mmod8662esh.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.filtera.com/3mmod8662esh.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor to consider any time you are cleaning up a hazard (whether mouse poop or mold) is to wet the dust first.  I've read suggestions to use chlorox bleach spray to saturate mouse poop.  Why?  Wet particles aren't stirred up as easily, wet particles don't break into even smaller parts.  Presumably the chlorox bleach spray also helps kill bacteria or mold.  You don't want to stir this stuff up and end up having it in your house duct system where your kids etc will breathe it.  If you can roll it outside first, I would do that to limit how much you get in the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can become seriously ill from mold so I wouldn't be too casual.  Here is an EPA page on one of the bad kinds of mold:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cdc.gov/Mold/stachy.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cdc.gov/Mold/stachy.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not just pick up a dust mask for ~$5 or $10 (useful for other household work too) to limit what you inhale?  And use some chlorox spray to wet down the mold before your disturb it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This advice isn't based on expertise or training just personal experience and some limited web research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of personal experience, I cleaned the mold out of a garage fridge that had food in it that got disabled (breaker intentionally flipped by the electrician).  Mold city.  409, Chlorox bleach spray, rubber gloves, dust mask.  It worked for me.  However, your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastEditorUserId="2083" LastEditDate="2012-08-10T05:16:40.197" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T05:16:40.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-09T14:02:25.710" Score="1" ViewCount="873" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at building a jockey box with a 70', 5/16&quot; (21.3m, 8mm) stainless steel coil (installed in a drum-style cooler.) Seems to be a good compromise between size, weight and cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How quickly can I pull cold beer out of it without it foaming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My back-of-envelope calculation says a 2133.6cm by 0.8cm coil holds &amp;pi; &amp;times; 0.4&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; &amp;times; 2133.6 = 1072&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; or just over a litre of beer. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://kwc.org/mythbusters/2005/03/mythbusters_cooling_a_sixpack.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mythbusters say&lt;/a&gt; you can cool a six pack of beer in five minutes with salted ice water, so I'd interpolate that one beer per minute would be achievable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone confirm my theory with experimental evidence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2597" LastEditorUserId="2597" LastEditDate="2012-08-13T01:12:33.357" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T01:12:33.357" Title="How quickly can you pull beer through a jockey box with a 70' coil?" Tags="|cooling|serving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7426" CreationDate="2012-08-09T17:14:08.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cooling effectiveness of the coil is a function of several things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contact surface area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contact time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The difference in temperature between the warm beer and cool water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/16403//Draft_Box_-_One_Faucet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MoreBeer Draft Box&lt;/a&gt; has 50 feet of 3/8&quot; tubing, providing about 700 square inches of contact surface versus your proposed 69 square inches. So I would say you need to run the beer approximately 10x slower than the MoreBeer model to get similar cooling, which may be prohibitively slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Mythbusters is a fun show but I wouldn't trust it for any real measurements or proof of anything. They say that a 6-pack of beer cooled in 5 minutes, but how warm was the beer to start? How much cold water did they use? Was there any circulation? Assuming they had enough water, it probably doesn't matter if you're cooling 1 beer or 6, since all the cans have the same volume and surface area, so I don't think you could cool a single can in only 1 minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T17:14:08.570" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7456" CreationDate="2012-08-09T19:07:39.397" Score="6" ViewCount="7619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to use the arduino to monitor and create the best beer. I've look up some info and the best way to look for quality is to measure the beer density. I could not find any digital Hydrometer that I could plug to my arduino. Are there any other ways to monitor the brewing process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2600" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T19:29:07.953" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T20:36:20.963" Title="How to make the best beer with arduino?" Tags="|beer|brewing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2012-08-09T19:57:21.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Keith Hoffman has some great info. If you do want to take precautions, a dust mask would be one of the most beneficial items. Typical dust masks are rated as an &quot;N95&quot; mask. The number &quot;95&quot; corresponds with industrial filter ratings. An N95 is 95% efficient at removing 0.3 micron particles. 0.3 micron particles are considered the most difficult particle to filter out. Different manufacture's mask will have slightly different effective filtration ranges depending on the media (material) type. Typically mold spores are large enough to be filtered out by an N95 mask. If you want to be very sure, a P100 type filter is effectively a HEPA filter. P100 masks will be at least 99.9% efficient at removing 0.3 micron particles. I wouldn't waste your money on a P100, unless your using an actual respirator. A dust mask is only as effective as the seal it makes on your face. Most dust mask leave a GIANT hole where the mask goes over your chin. Companies spend thousands of dollars to have a dust masks &quot;fit tested&quot; to ensure they are working properly. Gloves would be a good idea, however mold spores will not enter your body through your skin, soap and water will wash the spores away. A spray of some kind should be used to wet the spores before cleaning. A bleach spray (mixed as directed on the jug) is great, however, even water in a spray bottle will effectively &quot;encapsulate&quot; the spore and keep it from floating around everywhere. Once you've cleaned the mold up, make sure to disinfect the area. After disinfection has occurred (ie: 20 min if using a properly mixed bleach solution) dry the area so that there is no moister left over. You will NOT be able to completely removed/ kill every last spore, so you want to make sure the environment in your freezer is not conducive to new growth via old spores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T19:57:21.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7428" CreationDate="2012-08-09T20:46:46.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not seen any inexpensive density sensors either, which is surprising since they can be made from mass-produced components - a PZT actuator and a quartz tuning fork. The sensor works by producing a vibration and then measuring the resonance in the tuning fork to that vibration. The density of the liquid has a predictable affect on the resonant frequency, i.e. the point with the highest resonance, and so from measuring the resonant frequency the density of the liquid can be determined. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0925400502000126&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; describes how to build such a sensor, and how it peforms. If you search for the title, you can also find the full text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T20:46:46.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7418" CreationDate="2012-08-09T23:58:26.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a recent &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/07/26/moonlight-meadery-with-michael-fairbrother-beersmith-podcast-43/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerSmith podcast&lt;/a&gt; Michael Fairbrother from Moonlight Meadery talks about degassing mead during fermentation (at about 17:45 in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FhOEe07KIc&amp;amp;feature=player_embedded#!&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;), and alludes that unlike beer, mead and wine can handle additional oxygen after fermentation begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we know, depending on the stage of fermentation, oxygen in beer can be detrimental. So I guess it's a trade-off between stressing the yeast with CO2 and having oxidised beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I also suspect that as most beers have relatively lower alcohol levels to wine and mead, there are less overall yeast toxins present in the fermenting beer, so degassing the CO2 isn't as critical to yeast health. Obviously this doesn't apply to the stronger beers, so the oxidation trade-off would kick in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2012-09-12T04:26:59.287" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T04:26:59.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7416" CreationDate="2012-08-10T03:40:48.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You still get Krausen, but I wouldn't harvest from the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest scooping some up in a sanitized mason jar and making a starter from there after racking the steam beer to secondary.  You could search google washing yeast if needed, but you should be fine from the starter. You won't get a lot of steam like flavors from that, but a huge amount of cells compared to a starter on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've pitched on top of yeast cakes before, but only ales, not largers, and getting stronger in flavor profile.  I think your lager could be at risk of funny steam like flavors if you pitched directly on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like this idea, a lot easier than trying to grow from a starter :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2601" LastEditorUserId="2601" LastEditDate="2012-08-10T13:10:31.347" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T13:10:31.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7416" CreationDate="2012-08-10T12:03:25.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A krausen is created mostly from coagulating proteins and high yeast activity. You may still get a krausen at ale temps with the lager yeast due to the level of activity, but  in general it's hit and miss how much yeast you get from top cropping, even more so with a bottom fermenting strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your shoes, I would divide the smack pack yeast between two starters and make separate starters for both brews, just as a Plan B in case the top-cropping doesn't work out. For the lager starter, start with a 1L starter, which you then step up to 2 liters - more if not using a stirplate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding harvesting the yeast, there's plenty of good adivce on the wyeast page &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/com-yeast-harvest.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yeast harvesting and Re-pitching&lt;/a&gt;. I've snipped out some relevant info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Open Vessels (Top Cropping): Yeast can be harvested once the gravity&#xA;  has dropped below 50% of original gravity. First head will rise&#xA;  approximately 24-36 hours into fermentation. Discard 1st skim (“dirt&#xA;  skim”). A clean, 2nd head will rise which can be harvested with a 2nd&#xA;  skim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How much&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We recommend using an &lt;strong&gt;increased pitch rate&lt;/strong&gt; when pitching harvested yeast from a previous fermentation versus laboratory grown culture. Laboratory grown culture will arrive in optimum condition for a quick and healthy fermentation. Yeast harvested from a previous fermentation is coming from rather harsh conditions. The culture can be void of sterols, enzymes, and glycogen, as well having possible poor cell membrane health. 1-2 million cells per milliter per degree Plato.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So they recommend you pitch at least twice as much as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_pitchrates.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;normal&lt;/a&gt; (I'm assuming these figures are for Ale yeast.) This means you'd have to harvest a LOT of yeast for the lager. One concern is the quality of the yeast - you don't want to be pitching a lot of dead cells since this will give the lager a musty aroma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The page also shows how you can estimate the number of cells harvested by waiting for it to sediment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0MMzT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it doesn't look likely that you'll get as much as you need with a lager strain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Top Cropping] Specific yeast strains which rise to form a dense head must be used,&#xA;  making top cropping nearly exclusive to ale and wheat strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you might try top cropping as an exercise and as prep for any time when you really are depending on the yeast harvested, but it is best suited to Ales where lower pitching rates and less time in contact with the beer help offset the lower quality of cells harvested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T12:03:25.030" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7437" CreationDate="2012-08-10T23:34:50.033" Score="9" ViewCount="6521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen mostly two suggestions to cool wort.  Ice bath and the coil method.  My friend and I were thinking about just using ice.  Ie pull the ice from the fridge that uses the same water source as used during the boil.  Put it in the pale and run the wort into the ice.  What are the drawbacks, I'm sure there are some because I can't find anybody recommending this method.  For sure it will cool down pretty quickly which is desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T01:57:46.423" Title="Ice the wort for fast cooling" Tags="|wort|wort-chiller|cooling|crash-cool|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7434" CreationDate="2012-08-10T23:43:55.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only problem I can think of might be contamination or (depending on the age of your ice...) picking up off flavors from the ice.    Remember that it will also dilute your wort by some (probably calculable) amount.   If you're doing a concentrated boil anyway, then it would be easy enough to dump the hot wort onto your extra 2-3 gallons of ice.   I imagine that it would get you to pitching temperature more rapidly than other methods, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T23:43:55.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-11T00:10:05.183" Score="6" ViewCount="1539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I need to be mindful of how well my grains are crushed if I'm just using them for steeping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to get my LHBS to crush my grains or use the rolling pin / bag method?  Or can I just whiz them in my coffee grinder?  Does it matter how crushed they are?  What harm could I cause if I end up with a fine powder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4021/for-steepers-whats-the-easiest-way-to-crush-specialty-grains&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, Denny mentioned a couple of things: that the crush is less crucial, but also that sticking to 1.5 qt/lb (~3L/kg) is important to regulate the pH for steeping.  Does this change up or down based on how the grain is crushed?  My coffee grinder is fairly inconsistent with it's grinding, so if I over / under crush I'd like to adjust if it's necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T13:38:47.353" Title="What difference does the crush make for steeped grains?" Tags="|grain|steeping|extract-plus-grains|mill|crush|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7434" CreationDate="2012-08-11T00:28:04.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is how I do all of my brews.  I usually boil about 11/12L for a 20/21L batch, put a filter over the primary bucket, pour the wort in from a bit of a height to help aerate, add ice until I get the right temperature then top up with water.  The &quot;right temperature&quot; might be a couple of degrees above / below target, depending on whether the top up water is warm or cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't had any contamination problems yet, but it is something to keep in mind.  Either make your own ice through freezing boiled water (you'll need a few kgs) or buy it bagged from somewhere you trust that takes cleanliness seriously (distilled, minimal handling, etc).  Some places do sell different grades (e.g. triple frozen for making cocktails) so you might be able to find something especially good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature gets down within a few minutes so it's certainly an effective method.  Plus you &lt;strong&gt;save potentially hundreds of litres of water per brew&lt;/strong&gt;.  This is the reason I do it: I haven't found a more efficient wort cooling system than this.  As baka noted though, it will not work if you are doing a full boil and will become harder as you get closer to a full boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T00:28:04.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7434" CreationDate="2012-08-11T01:57:46.423" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always thought of this as being a HUGE no no. But I guess not...below is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter7-4.html&quot;&gt;John Palmer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;People often wonder about adding ice directly to the cooling wort. This idea works well if you remember a couple key points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Never use commercial ice. It can harbor dormant bacteria that could spoil your beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Always boil the water before freezing it in an airtight container (like Tupperware). It must be airtight because most freezers also harbor dormant bacteria.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If the ice will not directly contact the wort, (i.e. you are using a frozen plastic soda bottle or other container in the wort) make sure you sanitize the outside of the bottle first before you put it in the wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T01:57:46.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7436" CreationDate="2012-08-11T02:13:48.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be mindful, and I would go with the rolling pin method. I have done this before, and will most replicate the effect of the barley crusher at your LHBS. Also, do this, and there is no need to worry about steeping more/less when using the coffee grinder method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T02:13:48.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7442" CreationDate="2012-08-11T15:54:54.697" Score="1" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the effects of using a malt-based starter for a batch of mead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen recipes for making starters using honey, but here's the thing: Honey is expensive.  Malt extract is cheap(er).  I would rather make a starter (which I intend to pour down the drain) with malt extract than honey.  Would this have detrimental effects on the resulting mead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T19:35:19.540" Title="Mead: Is it harmful to use a malt-based starter?" Tags="|mead|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4396" CreationDate="2012-08-11T19:01:43.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely the water you added wasn't mixed well.  Wort is heavier than water so it will sink to the bottom of the fermenter.  When you take your reading you get the watered down wort from the top.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-08-12T16:05:14.000" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T16:05:14.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7440" CreationDate="2012-08-11T19:35:19.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there will be no negative affects from the yeast fermenting the malt. On the positive side, malt provides more nutrients than honey, aiding yeast growth. Just be sure to wait for the yeast to fully sediment so you can decant all of the malt before pitching the yeast, unless of course you're making a braggot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T19:35:19.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7436" CreationDate="2012-08-12T12:50:06.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree with Denny's assessment.  Compare the theoretical results of not crushing them to grinding them into a powder.  The the first case you'll get little flavor/color; in the second you get maximum flavor/color. So the crush does indeed have an important impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is to do it the same way every time for consistency brew to brew.  That way an adjustment in amount of an ingredient becomes meaningful vs. it being how it was processed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding grain to water I generally always kept it similar to a mashing type ratio.  But I have rarely heard of fellow brewers having problems with steeping their grain in the entire volume of wort, myself included.  Generally its such a small amount the tannin and pH issue becomes a bit moot.  YMMV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T12:50:06.643" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-13T01:35:43.820" Score="1" ViewCount="1682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/1558798/american-wheat-or-rye-beer-recipes/blackberry-honey-wheat-ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;honey wheat ale&lt;/a&gt; in the fermentor, 8 days on it. Wyeast 1010, 1.5L starter. OG 1.054. Temp controlled chest freezer at 65F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation appeared to start well, the blowoff hose was gurgling like crazy. I went away for a few days, when I came back the hose was still active but much quieter. On day 7 I took a gravity reading of 1.022.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the conditions I would have expected to be closer to FG (1.012-14) after a week. I haven't had such a slow fermentation before, though I haven't used 1010 before, nor do I often brew with honey. I roused the yeast and am now another 2 points down so I know it's not stuck. I'm disappointed because I was hoping to have this beer in the keg by this weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any clues here as to why this fermentation is so slow? I couldn't find any evidence of 1010 being slow, and it seemed so happy the first couple of days. I can only think the problem is in my recipe or process. Maybe after chewing through the honey, the bulk the yeast didn't switch over well to the maltose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T20:32:40.360" Title="What causes fermentation to slow down under normal conditions?" Tags="|fermentation|honey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7436" CreationDate="2012-08-13T13:38:47.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have already gotten a couple great answers here but just to through my two cents in... From what I have heard a good average crush to shoot for would be breaking the grain kernel into about four pieces. That crush should give you a good extraction efficiency rate and still be large enough to filter itself without getting &quot;stuck&quot;. But thats suggested for all-grain, so keeping in mind that you would get the best efficiency if you ground your grain into powder (but that would create some serious issues (don't do it)) I would find a crush that is giving you the results you are looking for and not giving you troubles. When I brew extract I do not worry about getting any fermentables from my specialty grains instead focus on getting the color, body, head retention, exc... and calculate your gravity based on the extract you use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T13:38:47.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-13T14:48:36.890" Score="5" ViewCount="3774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of purchasing a Peristaltic Pump for home brewing. The fact that they are self priming, that you can adjust the speed easily, and reverse the flow makes them seem really appealing to me. I've seen people recommend Cole Parmer medical pumps, but the used ones seem a little pricey. Does anyone have any other recommendations for a cheaper alternative? if not, which Cole Parmer should I go for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2609" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-08-13T19:07:25.483" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T15:09:58.177" Title="Peristaltic Pump Recomendations" Tags="|pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7449" CreationDate="2012-08-13T17:16:08.670" Score="4" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like I should learn more about the chemistry involved in brewing.  Can anybody recommend some good books for learning about brewing chemistry and how it relates to brew outcomes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer something pretty readable, something I could read cover to cover rather than a reference book or text book, but I would would still be interested in learning some of the science involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2185" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T14:15:05.967" Title="Good Brewing Chemistry Books" Tags="|chemistry|books|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-10-19T16:06:33.497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7448" CreationDate="2012-08-13T17:33:42.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the heavy duty brewing chemistry books I know of are really aimed at commercial brewers and may be more or less relevant to homebrewers.  That said, look for &quot;Principles of Brewing Science&quot; by George Fix, &quot;New Brewing Lager Beer&quot; by Greg Noonan, &quot;Brewing Science and Practice&quot; by Briggs, and books by Narziss or de Clerck.  Pretty heavy duty science!  For something not quite as intense, check out &quot;How to Brew&quot; by John Palmer.  These are all general brewing books.  You can also get specific books that cover things like yeast or hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-08-13T19:17:57.327" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T19:17:57.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7452" CreationDate="2012-08-13T19:31:19.723" Score="3" ViewCount="4778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I checked the pH in my mash at the end of my mash yesterday and it was 6.6 (using a calibrated electronic meter).  I'm trying to work out how to get that down into a more normal range without adding so much salt that it throws the water profile off the charts. I measured my water without any additions, and it read 7.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my water tested by [Ward Labs][2] last year:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pH 7.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sodium, Na 10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Potassium, K &amp;lt; 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calcium, Ca 46&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magnesium, Mg 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total Hardness, CaCO3 161&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nitrate, NO3-N 1.3 (SAFE)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sulfate, SO4-S 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chloride, Cl 14&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbonate, CO3 &amp;lt; 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bicarbonate, HCO3 146&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 120&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total Iron, Fe &amp;lt; 0.01&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ezwatercalculator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EZWaterCalculator&lt;/a&gt; spreadsheet. Recipe is a 7 gallon mash, 7# of 2-row, 10# of wheat malt, 1# of carapils, 1# of aromatic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the calculator, estimated mash pH is 5.94.  I can get that down around 5.6 by adjusting the Gypsum, Calcium Chloride and Epsom Salt, but I have to add so much that the ions in the water profile go way, way over the recommended ranges. And that's still quite a bit lower than the actual reading of the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have other good options for acidifying my mash and staying within my water profile? Are there other calculators out there that will take them into account?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T23:44:52.280" Title="Bringing mash pH down without changing mineral profile too far" Tags="|mash|water|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7450" CreationDate="2012-08-13T21:20:14.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use either lactic or phosphoric acid to reduce pH.  You can also use acid malt.  I think the absolute best water calculator around is Bru'nwater (&lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&lt;/a&gt;).  Its author, Martin Brungard, is a professional water engineer who has done work for many large breweries, including Sierra Nevada.  It also has a great section on water knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-08-13T23:44:52.280" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T23:44:52.280" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7450" CreationDate="2012-08-13T23:14:47.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep your water profile basically the same and add acid.&#xA;You can use many online calculators, but I think its better to deal with it practically.  Start your mash and measure pH, then slow add acid a ml or drop wise, remeasuring as you go. Keep track of how much you add, then you have a good starting point to begin with for the next mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also measure your starting water without the mash.  Once you get a sense of how much acid it took to titrate the mash down to 5.4, you can start acidifying your water before you even dough in.  That way your brew day will be a simple function of acidifying the brewing liquor and mashing in.  You should be able to hit it right every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you'll have to learn how to account for darker malts if you shoot for a different style of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T23:14:47.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7459" CreationDate="2012-08-14T12:47:47.050" Score="4" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about trying to utilize the hops I use better by combining late addition and early addition via a coffeepress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is to make a hops-tea in the coffeepress, let it sit for maybe 5 minutes, then press the hops down and pour the tea into a sanitized bottle/bucket and then add the hops from  the press to the boil for the full 60 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I hope to achieve is to preserve the aromas you get by late-addition but still get the full bittering out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this? Would I be combining advantages or disadvantages with this method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T15:52:36.953" Title="Ways to better utilize hops with a coffeepress?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7448" CreationDate="2012-08-14T14:15:05.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, don't forget &quot;Yeast&quot; by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff!   Great practical guide for homebrewers, but they also go into some light organic chemistry of yeast cell health, behavior, reproduction/budding, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T14:15:05.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7428" CreationDate="2012-08-14T14:48:39.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to use my arduino to control my brewing process. Eventually also to log fermentation temperatures. I didn't realize an electric hydrometer was possible. I plan to look into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I am only controlling my mash heating for my HERMS. Eventually I will be able to monitor temperatures with multiple probes simultaneously, Adding data logging, and other features. I will share more details once I get all the kinks worked out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion you absolutely do not need any kind of electronic controls to make good beer. Sanitation, happy yeast, and the brewing process are what make good beer. I just happen to enjoy tinkering with electronics, and one day they may allow me to be lazier on brew days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2612" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T14:48:39.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-14T15:10:59.030" Score="1" ViewCount="1054" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that a 400x magnification is right for counting yeast on a hemocytometer, and also using dye to check vitality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at using a cheap portable $50 USB microscope. They are rated up to 800x magnification. I suspect that the advertised magnification also factors in digital zooming on these devices. Digital zooming is not magnification. They also seem to have cameras that say 3M or more with interpolation when they are actually 2M or less cameras. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried using these to count yeast? Would I be better of investing in a regular microscope, and buying a camera to fit it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will probably buy the cheap USB microscope anyway for other uses like electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2612" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T16:32:15.063" Title="Are cheap poratable USB microscopes good enough to count yeast, and check vitality?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7454" CreationDate="2012-08-14T15:32:32.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By boiling for 60 minutes, whatever you extract from the hops into your 'tea', you will be eliminating any of the aroma, and most all of the flavor components from the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 60 minute addition is your bittering addition, and this is the quality you will get. If you are looking for hop flavor/aroma, I would recommend starting by experimenting with 10(more flavor) - 0(more aroma) minute additions, and/or dry hop(aroma) additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T15:32:32.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7454" CreationDate="2012-08-14T15:52:36.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I've tried it.  The tea is harsh and vegetal and nothing I'd want in my beer.  Also, using hot water will isomerize the hops to some extent, so bitterness will be left behind in the press when you add the hops to the wort.  I understand your desire to get more out of your hops, but it just doesn't sound like a good idea to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T15:52:36.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7457" CreationDate="2012-08-14T16:32:15.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a little bit of experience with microbiology. If your goal is to get an accurate cell count per unit of volume you will have a difficult time. Yeast are hard to see without staining, so to do a proper count you'd have to mount and stain a slide. Bear in mind that with improper mounting technique you will end up lysing some individual yeast cells which will affect the count. Further you need a way to precisely measure a small volume of liquid (a micropipette for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would strongly suggest a good ($800+) standard microscope for something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T16:32:15.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7949" CreationDate="2012-08-14T18:06:27.127" Score="2" ViewCount="730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using a converted chest freezer for nearly a year now for storing and dispensing from corny kegs and for lagering. Depending on whether I have kegs of homebrew, I may have a sanke keg of commercial brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I just added two pieces of equipment to the system: a one-to-three gas manifold and a second sanke tap&lt;/strong&gt; and hooked up two sixth barrel kegs from the same brewery. There was a large discrepancy in how the two kegs dispensed -- one was slow, as if there was almost no pressure; the other was way too pressurized and foamy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I adjust gas settings at all -- change pressure on the regulator, bleed gas with pressure relief valve, etc. -- the system hums like a harmonica. This may have come from one of the pressure relief valves (on the sanke tap or on the manifold) and seemed to be a red flag. I have not been able to detect any leaks. Upon visual inspection, everything seems fine as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this: &lt;strong&gt;Why would these two identical kegs fitted with identical taps filled with beer from the same brewery dispense so dramatically differently?&lt;/strong&gt; Does one tap have a defective pressure relief valve? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, a big BBQ party drained both kegs in a day, so I didn't have much time to troubleshoot. How can I further test this if both kegs are blown?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T22:21:08.583" Title="Troubleshooting new keggerator equipment - sanke tap, gas manifold, etc" Tags="|keg|gas|sanke-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7473" CreationDate="2012-08-14T20:10:34.840" Score="7" ViewCount="1037" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, New Belgium is doing this.  Also, for a typical five gallon homebrew batch, it is said that if you DIPPED A PIN in olive oil, shook it off, it would still contain hundreds of times the necessary amounts of the compounds that yeast need during the aerobic stage of fermentation.  Does anyone have an answer of whether this works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T01:05:12.567" Title="Can Olive Oil REPLACE oxygenating wort" Tags="|fermentation|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7462" CreationDate="2012-08-14T20:22:11.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;People have used olive oil with some success, see some conversations &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/q6rmy/alternative_wort_aeration_using_olive_oil_instead/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/jqprr/using_olive_oil_instead_of_aerating_a_lager/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The general consensus is that it works, but most seem to agree that there isn't much point of doing it on the pico scale unless you like to experiment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2561" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T20:22:11.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7466" CreationDate="2012-08-14T21:56:20.037" Score="7" ViewCount="2117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 50' copper coil immersion chiller. To drain it before storing, I hang it upside-down next to the bath tub over night, but I've noticed that this doesn't get all the water out. This causes a problem: when I go to sanitize it by putting it into my kettle of boiling wort about 15 min before the end, the remaining water in the coil heats up and starts coming out of the chiller and dripping all over the stove. The water is at or near boiling temp and sometimes shoots out. I have been catching it with towels and bowls, but it's pretty dangerous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick to getting the coil really dried out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any pumps, though I'm guessing that could be one way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T01:00:59.107" Title="Is there any trick to draining the water out of an immersion chiller?" Tags="|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7464" CreationDate="2012-08-14T22:14:01.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turn the coil on its side, so that the coil is now horizontal rather than vertical, and then rotate in the direction of the coil, the water will eventually come out at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water wants to fall to the lowest point, and so follows the path of the coil as you rotate it, eventually coming out the exit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T22:14:01.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7464" CreationDate="2012-08-14T22:29:43.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you really need to dry it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just hook my &quot;exhaust&quot; hose up and let it do whatever it does when that water comes out.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I brewed in the kitchen, I used a piece of garden hose for exhaust (If I were doing this again, I'd cut a piece long enough to reach the sink) and captured the hot water that you're speaking of in a half-gallon container.   As I recall, it doesn't all come out at once, so there's time to dump that container and refill, if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T22:29:43.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="180" CreationDate="2012-08-15T00:28:29.307" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote up something on my site for this.  Seems to help new brewers.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewgeeks.com/clean-and-sanitize.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewgeeks.com/clean-and-sanitize.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2380" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T00:28:29.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7464" CreationDate="2012-08-15T01:08:51.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hold it upside down for a few seconds and roll it around (the direction the water would flow naturally) which sounds just like what you do! But when I add the wort chiller to the boil kettle the hose is hooked up and the out-flow is pointed in the direction I want the water to go (sink, bucket, ext (i brew outside so the lawn) this could eliminate your problem. I also put the chiller in and turn the hose on, it should have plenty of time to sanitize before the temp drops into the &quot;danger Zone&quot;. Good luck! I love seeing questions like this It's what the forums are most useful for, i find myself missing little things that sometimes seem to be common knowledge and I dont feel dumb asking them here. +1 for the question by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T01:08:51.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7472" CreationDate="2012-08-15T13:22:45.323" Score="1" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there is a similar question out there, but I am trying to ask for my own particular set u.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If memory serves, I believe that is is in the first 48-72 hours of pitching yeast.  This is when they are most active in producing phenols, fusels, esters, etc., and if you want to minimize those, make sure to keep a 'leash' on the yeast by regulating the fermentation temp.  I do this with a temperature controller probe insulated with styrofoam, duct-taped to the outside of the fermenter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask the question because I only have room for two vessels in my fermentation chamber/lagering fridge.  Currently, I have a California Common in there, and the yeast was pitched Saturday night @ 9pm (pitching + 84 hours at the moment) at 64 degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bit of an aggressive brewing schedule coming up.  I am planning on brewing a hoppy american wheat tonight, THEN I am brewing an Oktberfest with my wife on Sunday.  Bottom line, I need to have the Oktoberfest set to 50 degrees on Sunday, meaning that the ferm fridge will likely have a lower ambient temp.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current plan is to brew the wheat tonight (estimated OG of 1.051), pitch a stepped-up US-05 starter (as I need a quick and vigorous fermentation, this wheat is going to be kegged in 12 days) at 66 degrees, then on Sunday (pitching + 4 days), remove the wheat, leave it in the basement (ambient temp of ~74 degrees) to finish up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue with this plan is that I would need to remove the California Common tonight, as if I tape the probe to the wheat, the freezer will likely get down really low to try to stabilize the fermenter temp AND I would need to do the same with the wheat to make room for the O-fest.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clear as mud?  I'm just trying to minimize unwanted esters, phenols, fusels, etc., and was hoping that I could let these fermentations go after a few days.  Alternatively, I could rig up the  swamp chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T14:34:24.697" Title="When is the most critical time to control fermentation temperature?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7464" CreationDate="2012-08-15T14:02:22.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really want to get the water out, just blow in one end (careful not to pass out though!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T14:02:22.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7469" CreationDate="2012-08-15T14:13:49.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this will help you, but when I run into similar problems with space in my fermentation chiller (a SOFC) I removed the beer at the last possible minute and place it directly into a tote or basin filled with cold water and usually some frozen pop bottles. The water will help to stabilize and slow the temperature changes, even if it is warming up. Adding ice to the water will help you keep the temperature lower, although achieving lagering temps with this method for any period of time is generally impossible. Rubber-made totes that will fit a carboy are dirt cheap. $5-10. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T14:13:49.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7469" CreationDate="2012-08-15T14:34:24.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say the most critical time to control fermentation temperature, is when most of the fermentation is taking place. US-05 is already a fairly forgiving strain (ferment temp wise). And if you are using a starter, I would bet that you will only be a few points away from FG by the time Sunday hits, given an OG of 1.051.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your current brew and ferment plan/schedule you have laid out is a good one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T14:34:24.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7462" CreationDate="2012-08-15T16:10:23.000" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that it was used at New Belgium primarily for yeast storage between brews, not fermentation.  AFAIK, New Belgium stopped doing it after a short trial (one batch of Fat Tire) when they found it led to premature staling and off flavors.  I know of only one controlled test of it on the homebrew level and the tasters in a blind triangle tasting preferred the beer made with O2 instead of OO.  The results are &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/discus/messages/43688/45581.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="1558" LastEditDate="2012-08-16T01:05:12.567" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T01:05:12.567" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7475" CreationDate="2012-08-15T17:09:54.160" Score="1" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to brew a Coffee Oatmeal Stout in a couple of weeks and was curious about what kind of coffee beans most people use in their homebrews. I was thinking about roasting some beans myself maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="335" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T17:33:47.633" Title="Coffee Beans for Homebrewing" Tags="|ingredients|stout|coffee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-10-19T16:05:29.610" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7474" CreationDate="2012-08-15T17:33:47.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a double French roast.  Very dark, very mellow.  I use about 5 oz. of coarsely cracked beans in secondary for aroma, then add brewed coffee to taste at packaging time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T17:33:47.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7477" CreationDate="2012-08-15T18:59:32.490" Score="3" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have fermented my last few batches with a swamp cooler - putting my bucket into an igloo cube cooler filled with water and ice. They've all been ales. I usually start in the high 60s/lows 70s (groundwater temp) and then add frozen water bottles to drop it into the mid 60s after a few hours. Quite often it seems like adding the ice makes the airlock bubbling slow down significantly. I can't be sure that it's not slowing down because the fermentation is just naturally slowing down or if it's the drop in temp. It still bubbles, but more slowly, once or twice a minute. This has happened with several different ale strains - Safale US-05, White labs Kolsch, White labs English Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can lowering temperature too rapidly result in stuck/slowed fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2012-08-15T19:14:12.673" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T15:49:00.520" Title="Can lowering temperature too rapidly result in stuck fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7476" CreationDate="2012-08-15T19:10:52.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not in my experience, although it's somewhat dependent on the strain of yeast you use.  Supposedly, WY3787 (Westmalle) can prematurely drop out if you chill too much too quickly (subjective terms for sure), but I use that yeast a lot and have never experienced that.  I think what you're seeing is not yeast dropping out, but simply becoming a bit less active because you've lowered the temp.  I wouldn't say it's a bad thing as long as you can maintain temps in the low-mid 60s.  A less violent fermentation at a slightly lower temp usually produces better beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-08-18T15:49:00.520" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T15:49:00.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7476" CreationDate="2012-08-15T20:05:59.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't expect any upvotes for this answer, but to tack on to the above, bubbling or lack of bubbling doesn't not mean yeast aren't working.  Also, I assume you are talking about the temp of your fermenter and not the ambient air.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, however, you were to take a batch that was having a vigorous, visibile, BUBBLING (!) , fermentation in the 70's, then drop it in to the 50's, then you MIGHT cause the yeast to go dormant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T20:05:59.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7445" CreationDate="2012-08-15T20:32:40.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If its been in the primary 8 days at 65, why not increase the temperature and gently shake?  A lot of styles recommend increasing fermentation temp when the beer is beginning to near the projected final gravity.  Though i don't have experience with that strain the yeast will likely get moving and take you down another few points.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T20:32:40.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7481" CreationDate="2012-08-15T22:31:31.630" Score="2" ViewCount="11256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I boiled and pitched a low-gravity (~1.033) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=143&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scottish Ale&lt;/a&gt; this past Sunday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wort was cooled via immersion to under 75° F and then aerated via a whisk-on-drill contraption before pitching the yeast. The house has stayed at a consistent 75° F the whole time, within range of the yeast's comfort zone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of this morning (Wednesday), there was no activity to speak of. Despite verifying the airlock and seals were all tight, it was apparent no pressure had been generated. I removed the airlock and found neither krausen or any yeasty smell--it looked and smelled the same as before I lidded it on Sunday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I came home this afternoon, I was about to attempt a re-pitch when I found something rather different. The airlock was bubbling away. I popped the top I found quite a healthy-looking (if a bit dark) krausen, and a definite yeasty smell. Perhaps it wasn't quite the smell I expected (I'm not used to smelling it mid-fermentation), but it certainly smelled more of beer than of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what was going on the past three days that made the yeast take so long to kick in? Do I need to worry about acquiring an infection during this time without alcohol, and particularly having now opened the lid twice (I'd never opened it before bottling time in the past)? Or should I just relax, not worry, and drink a homebrew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T03:09:25.500" Title="Why did fermentation take so long to start?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7480" CreationDate="2012-08-15T22:57:20.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had 72hr starts also with some yeast strains, particularly the Irish Ale strain from white labs, WLP004 either pitched directly from the vial or built up from a 10ml slant in a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is usually a sign of underpitching, and the yeast require many more generations to build up sufficient numbers of cells. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about infection, the yeast will also acidify the wort to some degree, which helps prevent any airbourne contaminants from taking hold. Also, you opened the fermentor not long before visible fermentation started, so there wasn't much time for any other organisms to take hold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd relax, your beer will be fine. Attenuation may suffer a little with such a long start, but that's not so bad in a scottish ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T22:57:20.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7480" CreationDate="2012-08-16T03:09:25.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this was answered already, but in case you didn't know... Despite the fact that Wyeast and White Labs say their vials &amp;amp; smack packs are enough yeast for a 5 gallon batch, Jamil Zainasheff/mrmalty.com recommends pitching 2 smack packs for a 5 gallons or making a starter. This yeast pitching rate calculator will tell you how much to pitch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 5 gal batch you're generally going to need 2 vials/smack packs or a ~1.5 liter simple starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make a smaller starter (1 liter) if you build a stir plate. I built one last week for about $25 and it worked like a charm. They can be built for even less if you have an old PC you can harvest the fan and hard drive magnet from. You can google for DIY homebrew stir plates to find lots of different plans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T03:09:25.500" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7485" CreationDate="2012-08-16T09:59:57.133" Score="22" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that the smackpacks say on the package that the package is meant for a 5 gal. batch and that you should pour the pack directly into the wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the otherhand - nearly everyone tells me to always make a starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just because making a starter never hurts or does the package contain wrong instructions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have guessed that the yeast producers would tell you on the package if you should need some extra steps to get a good product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T15:58:26.317" Title="Always making a starter vs. following package description" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|smack-pack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2012-08-16T12:40:08.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you stopped by BrewGeeks for a look around then I'd like to buy you a beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A virtual beer that is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2380" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T12:40:08.243" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-08-16T12:40:08.243" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7483" CreationDate="2012-08-16T13:27:59.730" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recommended cell count for ales is 0.75 to 1 million cells per milliliter per degree plato (ca. 4 gravity points.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 5 gallons (~18.9L) of typical strength beer of 1.048, that's about 12 plato, so you'll need&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 million x 18900 x 12 = 226.8 billion cells.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_productdetail.cfm?ProductID=16&quot;&gt;wyeast&lt;/a&gt;, the smackpack contains at least 100 billion cells, which is half of what is needed. Similarly, the white labs vials contain 75-150 billion cells. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the White Labs site, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew_information.html&quot;&gt;they mention&lt;/a&gt; using a starter to achieve the pitching rates above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Homebrewers who enjoy yeast culturing: If a starter is made from a&#xA;  fresh vial, one vial can be added directly to a 2 liter starter, which&#xA;  in 2 days will grow to approximately 240 billion cells, to achieve a&#xA;  pitching rate in 5 gallons of of 1 million cells/ml/degree Plato (with&#xA;  a 12 Plato beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why do they say a starter isn't needed? The producers are trying to strike a balance between cost (how much yeast you get) and convenience, and also reflect that some people like it to be easy, while others are aiming for the best they can get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make good beer by direct pitching, although you'll typically get lower attenuation and more esters, unless you regulate the temperature. For many, that may be fine, and easily outweigh the inconvenience of making a starter. For others, getting the absolute best out of the yeast is the priority, and making a starter just adds to the fun of brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See Also&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/starter_faq.php&quot;&gt;Mr Malty - Fourteen Essential Questions about Yeast Starters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-01-04T15:58:26.317" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T15:58:26.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7489" CreationDate="2012-08-16T17:55:14.677" Score="6" ViewCount="8626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering trying to piece together a propane HERMS system, inspired by the awesome-looking &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blichmannengineering.com/TOWER_of_POWER/TOWER_of_POWER.html&quot;&gt;Blichmann Tower of Power&lt;/a&gt;. I know there are several well-known electric HERMS guides (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theelectricbrewery.com&quot;&gt;The Electric Brewery&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alenuts.com/Alenuts/brutus.html&quot;&gt;Brutus&lt;/a&gt;), but I want to stick with propane for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good build guides? Where should I start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T13:22:17.793" Title="Guides or tutorials for propane automated RIMS / HERMS" Tags="|propane-burner|rims|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7490" CreationDate="2012-08-17T00:16:22.687" Score="3" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any experience with Palmer's Spreadsheet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way it was described to me and the way I read and understand it now states that for the water volume in Step 4 you just put the amount of water for the initial mash strike. So for my purposes right now only put 3 gallons, even though I will eventually have 6.25 gallons in my kettle pre-boil once the mash and sparge are complete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then adjust my salts and minerals for the 3 gallons until I reach the desired water profile. &#xA;I was told to then split the total salt/minerals additions into two parts. &#xA;Put one part into the mash and the other addition into the boil kettle once all the wort is collected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain why you would only calculate for 3 gallons and not 6.5 gallons? Is the spreadsheet accounting for this?&#xA;I feel like you would need to calculate for 6.25 gallons since that is what you would be boiling in the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read a lot of posts of other people saying they just put the total pre boil volume in there and not the mash sacchrifaction volume and it's starting to confuse me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Listening to Brew Strong, Palmer states that you put only the initial 3 gallons for mash and then you have to calculate an additional salt/mineral addition for the other 4 gallons that would top off your kettle for say a 7 gallon pre boil volume.&#xA;So thinking it over, was what my friend trying to tell me when he said split it into two additions, he didn't literally mean split it in half, but to do two separate additions of the equal value, since your mash &amp;amp; sparge volumes are almost equal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2021" LastEditorUserId="2021" LastEditDate="2012-08-17T00:51:35.883" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T22:33:21.860" Title="Water Volume on Palmer's Spreadsheet" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7486" CreationDate="2012-08-17T01:01:16.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditional forums are a good place to start.  Often people share pics and advice on how they built theirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T01:01:16.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7486" CreationDate="2012-08-17T07:48:17.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original Brutus build is not electric, but natural gas, so that may in fact be a good place to start, especially for seeing how the flame control works (temp controller + pilot and valve.) The write-ups are very good and many have successfully built clones. A new spring is needed on the honeywell valves to convert from natural gas to propane - &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewacademy.com/brutus-10-gas-system&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blog&lt;/a&gt; describes the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of others pages with propane builds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/2-vessel-gas-fired-herms-build-310657/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2-vessel gas fired HERMS build&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is nice and simple - just one pump and doesn't require any kind of pilot or valve on the propane burner since the mash is done in a cooler.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q9FJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/single-tier-herms-build-293204/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Single tier HERMS build&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a single tier system, like the Brutus/Electric Brewery, using PIDs and a honeywell valve to control the flame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sNfVG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Single tier system&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-08-17T07:56:14.840" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T07:56:14.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7487" CreationDate="2012-08-17T12:14:28.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are a couple of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One issue is that the salts need either lots of agitation or something to bind to, otherwise they'll just fall to the bottom of your Hot Liquor Tun and sit there.   The easiest thing to do is just add them to mash or wort, rather than water, so you give them something to bind to without having to do as much work stirring things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue is that the salts will have an effect on mash pH, so you don't want to add the entire batch worth of them to the mash, because you'll have to do more work to adjust and compensate, and possibly produce some off flavors.   Also, the salts in the sparge aren't going to have much effect as far as the mash, etc goes, so you put the remainder of the salts into the sweet wort as you're heating it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're putting 5 gallons of water into the mash, you'll add the 5 gallons' worth of salts to the mash during or immediately after dough-in.  After the mash, you extract maybe 3 gallons of wort, so you're going to have to add another 4-5 gallons to get enough water to boil down, so once all of your water is collected, you add that final addition of brewing salts for the volume difference between your total volume and your first runnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T12:14:28.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-17T17:26:41.780" Score="3" ViewCount="1399" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not having any cooling mechanism for my fermenter(s), this time of year I can get more favorable temperatures outside than inside.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm specifically talking about ciders in glass containers, but I'm also curious about hopped beer in glass and plastic containers.  (hops in glass outside is obviously bad due to UV exposure)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason I shouldn't ferment outside, or cold crash outside?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At what time in the fermentation process do I need to worry about temperature swings?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;UV exposure for hopped and non-hopped fermentations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2196" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T17:53:42.410" Title="Is there any danger in fermenting outside?" Tags="|fermentation|cooling|environment|crash-cool|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7491" CreationDate="2012-08-17T18:04:46.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you are comfortable with the temperature variances, then making cider outside should be ok. Although you should cover in a tarpaulin or other thick plastic sheet - the UV radiation may kill the yeast, or at least reduce it's capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T18:04:46.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7487" CreationDate="2012-08-17T22:33:21.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of these brewing salts are better dissolved at temperature and with the reduced pH of the mash and wort.  Hence the additions at those points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary reason to split them is there potential effect on the mash biochemistry (pH and enzymatic cofactors).  Palmers main focus for water manipulations is in flavor of final product and partly for mash chemistry.  Most mashes will attain the proper chemistry one there own without much change in water (unless your water is really bad; and in that case you'd be diluting the water with RO rather than adding salts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the main point being flavor of the beer he keeps some it in the mash and the rest in the kettle.&#xA;Its taken me a long time to really figure that out, mainly because Palmer doesn't really come out and say it.  You really need to hear &quot;in between the lines&quot;, IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T22:33:21.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7496" CreationDate="2012-08-18T19:19:51.520" Score="3" ViewCount="15268" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the simplicity of the question, but I asked Google and she didn't know.  Stackexchange is my next stop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a brix reading of my steam beer wort at 13 brix (~1.052 SG), but it was probably about 110 degrees.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-08-20T13:12:30.097" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T16:03:39.440" Title="Do I need to adjust for temperature with a refractometer?" Tags="|temperature|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7497" CreationDate="2012-08-18T19:28:02.103" Score="3" ViewCount="505" Body="&lt;p&gt;So for the few months that my wife &amp;amp; I have been brewing, we've been using the sink/icebath method of cooling our wort.  This is mostly because of our erratic brewing schedule. Every cost, no matter how small, takes months to be &quot;worth it&quot; meaning we're not going to be buying a chiller anytime soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We do have a lot of laboratory glassware in our basement however, and among those more esoteric pieces, is a 300mm Graham condenser.  Despite not being designed for it, I'm finding a hard time seeing any reason why I couldn't place the condenser over the primary, and siphon our hot wort through it, while running cold water (our groundwater is COLD) through the jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some tests earlier today (boiling water), and got a ~70degree drop depending on my flow rates.&#xA;This makes me think that I should be able to siphon through the condenser into an icebath, and have drastically reduced cooling times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, so now please tell me what I'm missing, because if I'm not missing anything, I'm gonna do this with our next brew on Tuesday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: gramamr ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2617" LastActivityDate="2012-08-19T04:13:25.723" Title="Using Pyrex Graham condenser as counterflow chiller?" Tags="|chilling|wort-chiller|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7494" CreationDate="2012-08-18T19:41:23.157" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not usually necessary to cool - most refractometers have built in Auto Temperature Compensation (ATC) to correct for temperatures up to 30C/86F. However, for hot samples in a warm environment then some cooling may be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the ambient temp is cool (&amp;lt;20C/70F) the ATC will be sufficient and that the quantity of liquid is small and has a very small thermal mass compared to the body of the refratometer. So, it will cool quickly from mash temps, while only warming the refractometer by just a few degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the ambient temp is close to the upper range of the ATC, then the additional sample may warm the body above what the ATC can handle. Then cooling is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if in doubt, leave the refractometer for a few minutes. I've noticed a change of at least +0.5% brix after a couple of minutes when sampling hot mash samples, presumably because the body temperature rises above the level that ATC will correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-08-20T13:43:02.670" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T13:43:02.670" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7495" CreationDate="2012-08-19T04:13:25.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like a good idea, especially if you tested it with boiling water it and it worked, and you sanitize it well. You would also want to make sure your siphon and tubing are all good for hot liquids. The only potential problem I can think of is that borosilicate glass (which I'm assuming is what your condenser is made out of) is very resistant to temperature shock, but it's not copper or stainless steel. I'm not a materials scientist, but it's still glass - I would think that after repeated use under the stress of extreme rapid heating and cooling, it could eventually start to crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2012-08-19T04:13:25.723" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7501" CreationDate="2012-08-19T11:44:51.420" Score="5" ViewCount="1415" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an effort to spread brew day out across a few weeknights, I was wondering if there is any harm in steeping grains ahead of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't plan on leaving the &quot;tea&quot; for more than a day or two, covered, after the steep and before the boil, but would it make a difference how long it was between steps?  What would the effect be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T00:01:14.437" Title="Can I steep grains ahead of time?" Tags="|steeping|extract-plus-grains|specialty-grains|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7498" CreationDate="2012-08-19T12:40:48.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it would be a problem, just transfer it to your clean &amp;amp; sanitized fermenting bucket and put the lid and air lock on. the next day transfer back to the boiling pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the only real down side I could see is it will take longer to bring to a boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2012-08-19T12:40:48.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7498" CreationDate="2012-08-19T13:17:44.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the 'tea' being added to your 60 minute boil, and as long as you follow good sanitation procedures, I don't see any major problems that you would run into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, you can much more easily just steep your grains in your brew pot while bringing your water up to a boil. This won't add time to your brew day, and will save you time having to deal with creating and properly storing your 'tea' days before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-08-19T13:17:44.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7498" CreationDate="2012-08-19T14:32:44.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may get some oxidation of the &quot;specialty&quot; wort letting it sit like that.&#xA;You aren't really saving any time though.  Start your steep in cold water while you heat it up.  By the time its at 160F you are generally good to pull the grains out and keep on heating to boiling.  I know most instructions when I started extract and grain brewing says to steep in 150 water or something like that, but there is no flavor difference to just start them in the cold water and start heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-08-19T14:32:44.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7498" CreationDate="2012-08-19T16:15:29.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done it maybe 5-6 times and there's no problem.  I keep the liquid from the steeping refrigerated overnight and boil it the next day.  But as has been said, there may not be much time saving from it.  If you think it would help you, there's no problem with it, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-08-19T16:15:29.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7506" CreationDate="2012-08-20T14:21:25.277" Score="3" ViewCount="2949" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very simply, what is the difference in pitching 100 billion cells into a 1L starter and into a 2, 3, 4L starter of, say 1.040 OG?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the logic with a 5.5 gallon batch of beer:  you want to pitch enough active, healthy cells TO MAKE GOOD BEER.  Underpitching can cause unwanted esters, phenols, and open up the chance of infection.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as we don't care about the quality of the 'beer' made with a starter, but do care about the number of cells we are getting, why does it matter if the yeast are going to multiply based on their environment (simply, how much food there is for them).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-08-20T15:26:05.530" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T16:47:42.057" Title="What is the purpose of stepping up a starter" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7503" CreationDate="2012-08-20T14:59:27.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you answered your own question.  A larger starter will grow more yeast.  BTW, 1.o52 is a lot higher than the recommend gravity for starters.   1.035-40 works better to produce healthy yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T14:59:27.387" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7503" CreationDate="2012-08-20T15:46:39.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a &quot;sweet spot&quot; in the ratio of starter size to yeast cell count that will result in the optimal conditions for producing the most additional yeast cells.   Too small, and you won't get much cell growth, but you will have well-fed yeast.   Too big, and you'll have beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T15:46:39.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7503" CreationDate="2012-08-20T16:38:06.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three main reasons for stepping up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;having too much medium and too little yeast increases the risk of contamination considerably.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a large quantity of medium causes the first few generations of yeast to bud rapidly, resulting in lots of scar tissue which functions poorly as a membrane. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It allows the strength of the wort to start out low and gradually increase. The lower strength wort (1.025-1.030) helps reduce osmotic stresses on the yeast, resulting in a more vital population.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making a starter, there is always some level of contamination  (bacteria, wild yeast). If the number of yeast cells is low, the ratio of contaminants to brewers yeast will be higher, possibly to a point where you cultivate significant quantities of these. By keeping the starter in proportion to the amount pitched, the level of contaminants is lower and so you get fewer contaminants in the produced wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second point is about how yeast reacts according to the volume of the medium. With a small population of yeast and a large quantity of medium, the initial generations  bud rapidly and continually. Cell bud many times, creating lots of budding &quot;scars&quot; on the cell wall. These scars prevent efficient transfer of nutrients and waste products in an out of the cell, leading to a lower quality population. By using a suitable volume (not too large) the yeast bud less often and have a healthier cell membrane as a result. In other words, the aim is to get the yeast to bud at a healthy rate, but not to go into overdrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason to &quot;step up&quot; is if you want to increase the number of cells without using a larger vessel. E.g. a 2 liter starter may have 200 billion cells. Decanting the spent wort and pitching another liter may take this up to 300 billion cells, effectively giving a 3 liter starter in a 2 liter vessel. (In practice, it's not linear because the yeast/volume ratio is much higher, causing propagation rates to slow, but you can bump up the count to some degree by decanting and adding fresh wort.) I don't consider this stepping up in the usual sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/yeast-propagation-and-maintenance-principles-and-practices&quot;&gt;Yeast propagation and maintainance&lt;/a&gt; describes stepping up and why it is benecifial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During yeast propagation it is important to keep the yeast growing&#xA;  exponentially.  Diluting the yeast out too far&#xA;  will slow down their growth and give bacteria a chance to overtake the&#xA;  culture.  Since bacteria can grow as much as 6 times faster than yeast&#xA;  (the average doubling time for a bacterium is 20 minutes!), it is&#xA;  important to keep yeast growing rapidly.  If more than 1 or 2 liters&#xA;  of starter are required, it is best to do more than one step-up.  In&#xA;  most cases it is best to do a 500 ml intermediate starter and after&#xA;  1-2 days step this up to as much as 1-2 gallons.  In each case the&#xA;  yeast should reach saturation in 24-48 hours.  Figure 4 outlines the&#xA;  two different propagation strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same page states ideal step up ratios between 4-10 fold for the final generations of yeast. Stepping up in larger volumes reduces attenuation as the efficiency of maltose and maltriose metabolization is reduced, leading to sweeter finishes. So,  stepping up from a 10ml slant, a 50 fold increase is ok, since these are only the initial generations, and also represent only a small percentage of the final yeast population, but as the starter volume approaches the final volume desired, step ups should be smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-08-20T16:47:42.057" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T16:47:42.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="366" CreationDate="2012-08-20T19:05:46.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see I'm a bit late in the game here, but I would nonetheless recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtoad.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewtoad&lt;/a&gt; to anyone who's looking for new recipes or would like to share theirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can post recipes to share or browse recipes posted by other brewers. It's a really neat site with excellent UI/UX. You can even see what color your beer will be as you tweak your ingredients, and once you've settled on a recipe you can order the supplies in a snap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2630" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T19:05:46.510" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-08-20T19:05:46.510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7514" CreationDate="2012-08-21T00:57:00.817" Score="5" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to continously recirculate a mash through a Bazooka-style screen, or is that just asking for a stuck mash due to the relatively small surface area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T18:52:10.473" Title="Recirculating mash through screen" Tags="|mash|rims|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7518" CreationDate="2012-08-21T02:15:49.853" Score="3" ViewCount="1478" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got a carbonation stone because I want to carbonate a keg quickly and have a few questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do you need any special tubing to attach the stone to the gas-in dip tube?&lt;/strong&gt; The stone I have has a 1/4&quot; barb, but I wasn't sure if I&#xA;needed special hoses or gas hoses for this. Also wasn't sure if it would be a good&#xA;idea to have gas hoses sitting in my beer, i.e. if the plastic/vinyl&#xA;they're made from is safe for long term contact with beer. I figured&#xA;I would use plastic clamps here so I don't have to worry about a bad&#xA;steel clamp rusting or something. Would love to see pictures of this&#xA;if anyone has any.    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you leave the stone on there for serving?&lt;/strong&gt; I was planning to attach it to the empty keg, then siphon the into the keg beer and then seal it up and leave it on there to avoid contamination. I won't need to use it again for a while.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will yeast settling at the bottom of the cold keg clog the stone and/or prevent it from working?&lt;/strong&gt; I was thinking of sticking the fermentor in the fridge overnight before siphoning to have some the yeast settle before transferring to the keg. Not sure if that's worthwhile though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T21:14:17.627" Title="a few questions about using carbonation stones" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2012-08-21T08:30:42.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have not told us exactly what hose type you have, I cannot tell if it is foodsafe, but I don't think you need a pressure safe hose, since the pressure difference should not be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess you could leave the stone in, but I doubt it will get better by doing so. I would try to transfer the beer to another keg when you are done with carbonation (just connect the &quot;beer-out&quot; of both kegs to each other and vent the receiving keg while keeping the CO2 connected to the source keg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you need to worry about the yeast if you transfer to another keg soon, but I guess that yeasties might settle in the pores of the stone if you leave the stone inside for an extended time period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T08:30:42.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1277" CreationDate="2012-08-21T09:08:57.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My name is Joseph and I have been making wine for about 50 years. It has become a tradition being passed down from generation to generation. I have always made good wine and I can't remember spoiling a batch but I must have. It happens to all wine makers even the pros. Lately I started to brew beer and I have made about 6 batches of Coopers home brew. &#xA;I have always used a seconday fermenter to keep the product as clear and clean from sedament as I could. I am a clean freak and sanitize everything I touch even the scooper when I check out the brew with the hydrometer. So far my son after trying my first brew told me he would not purchase another case of beer from the beer store unless he was hard up. After adding up the figures that I spent on the brew he told me Dad I can't believe it. Here I am drinking a tall boy for 50 cents a bottle opposed to 2.35 a Bottle and your beer tastes greater. I feel that if you have achieved the success you wanted why chance another procedure. You can only get so much out of what you got so why fix it if it's not broke. Keep all your equipment sanitized and also your hands and you should always have some good success. Thank you. I find all of your comments most desirable and I have learned some knowledgable things reading this site. Take care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T09:08:57.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="366" CreationDate="2012-08-21T12:56:38.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some great ones in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f82/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HomeBrewTalk Recipe Database&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Northern Brewer&lt;/a&gt; posts all of the recipes for its kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both sites have a good number of reviews for many of the recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2531" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T12:56:38.287" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-08-21T12:56:38.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7508" CreationDate="2012-08-21T14:04:29.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend in my brew club does this exact thing in his electric set up and has never had any issues. 100's of gallons of beer brewed, and no hiccups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though, when dealing with high adjunct mashes, I would be extra careful and take whatever preventative measures you can (i.e. addition of rice hulls, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T14:04:29.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7508" CreationDate="2012-08-21T18:52:10.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a pump to recirculate through a hose braid.  A Bazooka is more open than that so it shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T18:52:10.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7517" CreationDate="2012-08-21T20:22:40.893" Score="2" ViewCount="811" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just recently started paying attention to mash pH.  Took a reading of a cali common I brewed about 10 days ago during the mash, and based on the strips reading (after adding the stabilizer), I was probably around 3.8pH.  Added another tbspn of stabilizer.  Not much different on the pH strip.  No acid malt in the bill, just 2-row, touch of caramel, munich.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[knock wood] the beer turned out fine, tastes like a great representation of the style that I may even enter in a comp or two.  I have also since read that the pH stabilizer belongs in the garbage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions, as I am planning on doing a lot of lager brewing in the next 6 months:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.)  Can you hit style guidelines with inaccurate/inappropriate mash pH's&#xA;2.)  Was my pH really as low as it indicated, or could there have been problems with the strips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T20:45:41.543" Title="can pH strips go bad? / 5.2 stabilizer" Tags="|mash|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7516" CreationDate="2012-08-21T20:45:41.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no way your mash was 3.8 unless you were using highly acidified water to begin with. But you can measure your water pH to be sure. Most water starts alkali and if anything you have to work to bring down the mash pH. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pH mostly affects enzyme activity, and so mash efficiency. There is some minor affect on body, but this is small compared to the affect of mash temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;pH papers will only give you a ball-park reading, at best +-0.3 pH and they cannot be read under fluorescent lighting, and can be difficult to read in good lighting conditions. If you want to be sure about pH get one of the waterproof pH meters on ebay, or alternatively buy some pH calibration solution and use that with pH papers to become proficient and judging color and checking their accuracy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can brew well within style guidelines without worrying about pH. The grain bill, hops schedule, yeast choice is by far the bigger influence. pH primarily affects efficiency, so once you understand your typical efficiency for different types of beer, then you can adjust the recipe accordingly and not worry so much about the exact pH. But for fine tuning a beer, pH can be a useful tool once the rest is in place. A lower pH 4.9-5.1 produces a drier beer compared to a higher pH of 5.4-5.7, but again temperature, and mash thickness are much bigger influences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pH of 3.8 seems very unlikely. If you get a 'rogue' reading always take a new measurment. Also bear in mind that the sample must be taken at room temperature. A higher temperature will give an apparent lower pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I avoid the 5.2 stabilizer - some phosphoric or lactic acid can be used to reduce pH. If you need to raise pH, baking soda or chalk can be used. But again, anywhere in the 5.1-5.5 range is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T20:45:41.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2012-08-21T21:14:17.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not problem leaving the stone in during serving, other than that it's not available to carb other beers. You can still achieve the needed pressure in the headspace to keep the beer properly carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're happy with the taste of your beer with your current beer line, then use that to attach the carbonation stone. As far as I know, most carbonation lids are sold with regular beer line to attach the stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast are around 3µm in size, while a carbonation stone has typically 0.5µm pores, so there's little chance of yeast clogging it up - the pores are too small. A more likely problem is with trub, hop oils and such. These can be removed by boiling and by soaking in a good cleaner, such as oxiclean or PBW. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to use the carbonation stone a lot with several kegs, you may want to look into getting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/18212/102295/Carbonating_Keg_Lid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carbonation lid&lt;/a&gt;. CHI companies also stock these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T21:14:17.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7520" CreationDate="2012-08-23T02:47:11.183" Score="2" ViewCount="532" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working with a recipe for a black ale (Cascadian Dark Ale) and it's telling me to dry hop 0.25 oz Warrior hops and 0.5 oz Cascade hops right after transferring to the carboy.  I had read that the best time to dry hop was after some of the fermentation had already taken place.  Is this timing special to the Cascadian dark?  What are the consequences of dry hopping this early in the fermentation?  Should I adjust the recipe? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2185" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T12:40:18.020" Title="When To Dry Hop?" Tags="|fermentation|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7519" CreationDate="2012-08-23T03:36:45.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing special about the style.  The best time to dry hop is … immediately before serving, ultimately.  Hops fade as a function of time, so minimizing the time between introduction and consumption is key.  E.g., if you want to age/condition your beer for 3 weeks post-primary before serving, and want to dry hop for one week, you should introduce the dry hops after 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T03:36:45.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-23T08:27:02.293" Score="1" ViewCount="4829" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my first batch of home brew lager around 24hrs ago I aerarted it and it was at 20 Degrees celcius but does not appear to be fermenting..... I know people say I have to give it time as I read a lot of forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a hydrometer reading which was 1035 and will only open after 5 days to take another to see if fermented or not, Air locks are not bubling although I know this isn't a true sign&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it is in my shed wrapped up in one of my hooded tops to keep it warm and is at around 10 Degrees celcius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is can yeast function at this low temperature and if not any suggestions - I do not have a power socket for a heat belt in the shed so thats out of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advise would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if fermentation hasn't started after the 5 days do I justadd more yeast without aeraiting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2638" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T14:33:37.453" Title="Can Dried yeast function at a low temperature?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|lager|aeration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7521" CreationDate="2012-08-23T12:02:00.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;20C is 68F, which is normal-to-high ale temperature. Why do you think this is &quot;low&quot; for a lager? Lagers are typically fermented at about 50F, give or a take. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I wouldn't wait 5 days. You don't have to check the gravity to see if fermentation has started, just take off the airlock and look down into the bucket/carboy through the opening. A clear, smooth surface mean that either fermentation hasn't started yet, or its totally done and the yeast has dropped, in which case there would be a ring of krausen/scum right above the liquid in the vessel. Either way, fermentation has a distinct smell that's &quot;sharp&quot;, probably from escaping C02, so you can learn to tell if its underway from smell alone. If you are using a bucket, just put your nose right over the grommet and push down on the lid a little. This will force gas up to your nose and let you smell the wort without opening the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, if its not fermenting within another 24 hours, then I'd question the viability of the yeast packet, and I'd probably pitch another to be safe. No need for further aeration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T12:02:00.647" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7519" CreationDate="2012-08-23T13:06:58.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The instruction to add hops to the carboy is a little unusual, but if you think about it, its kind of like a post-chilling whirlpool addition, so its not totally unheard of. You will loose some delicate aroma through off-gassing during fermentation, and since its only .75oz total, I doubt this addition will contribute much to the finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some folks advocate adding dry hops at the tail end of fermentation, but &lt;strong&gt;before its totally done&lt;/strong&gt;. The idea being that the last bits of C02 from the fermentation will help drive out the oxygen introduced with the dry hops. I suppose this is more important with loose leaf hops as opposed to vacuum-sealed pellets. You will loose a touch of dry hop character from adding them early like this, but the trade off is that less oxygen post-fermentation means that the beer tastes better for longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T13:06:58.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7521" CreationDate="2012-08-23T13:52:07.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that you got an ale yeast with your kit, and 10C good for a lager yeast, but is far too cold for an ale yeast. You need to raise to at least 15C, ideally 16-17C. The way to know with certainty is to check the instructions that came with the kit. These will have advice on ideal fermentation temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T14:28:14.613" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T14:28:14.613" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7519" CreationDate="2012-08-23T17:51:58.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aroma = molecules in the air detected by olfactory neurons in your nose, so it makes sense that if your yeast are producing lots of CO2, the gas will carry away some of your nice aroma molecules and reduce the effectiveness of the dry hop, which is really about maximizing that hop aroma. In my experience, 2-4 days before bottling/kegging seems to work well, a week max. The last IPA recipe I did recommended fermenting a week then dry hopping for 2 weeks so I tried it. It still has a big hop aroma, but I think it resulted in a bit less hop aroma than the 2-4 day dry hop I've done before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T17:51:58.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7338" CreationDate="2012-08-23T20:38:16.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I liked your idea so much, I went ahead and made a site that does this! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find it at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yeasthub.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.yeasthub.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very rough around the edges (i've only been working on it a few days), but any comments and feedback would be most appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comments/reviews/notes on the yeasts would be even more appreciated. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T20:38:16.467" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7528" CreationDate="2012-08-23T20:48:21.027" Score="2" ViewCount="1886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my first lager fermenting at 50 degrees (pitched Saturday 8/18 at 11pm, tonight will be pitch + 5 days).  Airlock activity started Monday AM, been going consistently since.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I am seeing is, I am heading out of town one week from today for 10 days (which will be pitching + 12 days).  I have two choices: raise it up to diacetyle rest temp prior to leaving, or leave it in the primary at 50 degrees until pitching + 22 days.  I feel like the former will not facilitate an actual diacetyl rest as the yeast will have gone dormant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know ideally, it should be done for a few days when you have reached 75% or so of your target gravity (maybe 50-60% attenuation).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, which side of error will produce a cleaner lager?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T22:41:15.020" Title="When to conduct diacetyl rest?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|lager|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7527" CreationDate="2012-08-23T21:28:26.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would do it later rather than earlier. By raising the temperature early, you risk introducing esters, fusels and sulphur compounds into the beer, which can't be cleaned up easily. Traditionally the diacetyl rest is done after primary, not during it. (see reference below.) So you should be fine just leaving the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you get home from your trip, take a gravity sample and taste the beer - you may find you don't need a diacetyl rest at all. It's not always necessary. But if you feel it is, then I doubt all the yeast will have gone dormant after 3 weeks and you will probably be fine just raising the temperature for a few days. Again, take a sample afterwards for comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is still diacetyl, you can krausen the beer by pitching a quart of fresh wort and actively fermenting yeast. (Either a lager strain or a neutral ale yeast.) This will clean up the beer very well. (Especially ale yeasts, which have a higher absorption capacity for diacetyl.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/brewingtechniques/library/backissues/issue1.2/fix.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diacetyl Formation, Reduction an Control&lt;/a&gt;, Dr George Fix&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T21:28:26.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7527" CreationDate="2012-08-23T21:39:59.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give your lager a nice long fermentation (say 4 weeks) with plenty of healthy yeast and it's unlikely you'll need a diacetyl rest.  I typically take a gravity reading after 4 weeks and taste the sample.  If there is diacetyl, I do the rest at that point.  If I don't taste it, it doesn't need the rest.  BTW, I don't think the yeast will necessarily be dormant.  Even if it is, the purpose of raising the temp for a d rest is to make the yeast more active so it will consume the diacetyl.  That's why if you pitch enough yeast and give it enough time it's likely to consume the diacetyl during fermentation and you won't need a d rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T22:41:15.020" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T22:41:15.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7532" CreationDate="2012-08-24T06:40:08.440" Score="2" ViewCount="10987" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the creamy mouthfeel of UK beers like Guinness, Belhaven, and Boddington Draught in a can. Is it possible as a home brewer to recreate this effect, which I understand is from forced-nitrogenating the beer at the time of canning? Would a bottling spigot rig and a nitrogen gas tank, similar to how forced carbonation can be done for home brewers be possible? Are there any risks/dangers with dealing with compressed nitrogen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2642" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T17:47:09.950" Title="Is it possible or easy to nitrogenate home brewed beer?" Tags="|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7534" CreationDate="2012-08-24T13:49:26.240" Score="5" ViewCount="1831" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of resources that specify the fermentability of malt extracts like muntons and coopers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done a forced fermentation on these extracts who has results they are willing to share?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how do  tools like hopville's beer calculus determine the fermentability of these extracts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1792" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T10:50:35.873" Title="Malt extract fermentability" Tags="|beer|fermentation|extract|experiments|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7530" CreationDate="2012-08-24T15:03:16.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can achieve this at home - I often serve these thick-headed beers. In addition to a keg of homebrew, you also need a Stout faucet and a tank of beer gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stout Faucet&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0AFs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stout Faucet&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stout faucet directs the beer through restrictor ring comprising half a dozen tiny holes. This agitates the beer and causes the CO2 to come out of solution as lots of very small bubbles that forms a thick head. Because of the high level of restriction in the faucet, a serving pressure of 30psi is used. The higher pressure gives that beautiful cascade affect you see when the beer is poured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Beer Gas&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer gas is a mix of carbon dioxide (CO2) and nitrogen (N2) in a ratio of around 25% CO2 / 75% N2. Your gas supplier may blend the gas for you in a tank for use directly. Alternatively, you can get a tank of pure N2 and blend this with CO2 yourself at home in a keg. For a dispensing pressure of 30 psi, first fill the keg to 7.5 psi with CO2, and then fill up to 30 psi with N2. This will give 75/25 ratio, and ensure the beer maintains a low level of carbonation as is typical for these styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Widget&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IlUmB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Widget&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, the widget doesn't nitrogenate the beer - the nitrogen mainly stays in the headspace, since it's almost insoluble. What happens is small sphere containing nitrogen is placed at the top of the can, and as pressure builds in the can it pushes some of the liquid into the sphere via small hole, compressing the nitrogen inside the sphere. When the can is opened, the external pressure drops, so the liquid is forced out of the sphere, agitating the beer, forming lots of tiny CO2 bubbles, and a thick head. (If nitrogen were soluble, this wouldn't work since all the nitrogen would have dissolved into the beer and not provide any pressure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stout faucet performs the same job, agitating the beer as it passes through a series of small holes. The role of nitrogen is simply to provide pressure to push the beer, without dissolving any additional gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://recipes.howstuffworks.com/question446.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How does the widget in a beer can work&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T17:47:09.950" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T17:47:09.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7530" CreationDate="2012-08-24T15:04:47.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You use CO2 to carbonate the beer first, then serve it under the higher pressure of nitrogen.  But you can achieve the same effect more easily.  Before Guinness started using nitrogen, all their beers came with a syringe.  You used the syringe to suck up some beer and shoot it back into the glass.  You got the same swirling effect and the syringe helped knock some carbonation out of the beer.  That's what the nitrogen does, too.  By serving under high pressure you partially decarbonate the beer, which gives it a smoother mouthfeel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T15:04:47.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7531" CreationDate="2012-08-24T16:09:40.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Designing Great Beers&lt;/a&gt; has a table listing fermentability of a few brands of extract on p 15. I don't think it's permitted to reproduce it here, but if you search the book content in Amazon, search for &quot;Malt extract test worts&quot; - you'll get a link to table 3.1 which will take you right there. The range is from 45% to 65%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not seen any tools that directly take fermentability for each ingredient into account. Most tools seem to estimate or use a fixed value for the fermentability of the wort, and consequently, the final gravity is also just an estimate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in Hopville, a single item recipe of 10# pale malt gives an OG of 1.056 and FG of 1.014. Plugging in a recipe hitting same OG with 7# table sugar still gives a FG of 1.014 even though in practice the yeast will ferment out the table sugar  completely (provided sufficient pitching rates and nutrients are available.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same is also true of Beersmith - the final gravity is just an estimate (I've had this confirmed by Bradley Smith the producer of Beersmith.) The tool doesn't take into account fermentability of the wort nor the typical attenuation of the yeast, and instead uses a fixed attenuation of 75%. Note that yeast attenuation is mostly a function of the ability of the yeast to metabolize maltriose - ale yeast can at most ferment 1/3 of the maltriose, although often ferments much less due to fermentation conditions, flocculation etc., creating variability from strain to strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;My advice above was based on Beersmith 1. I just tried this on Beersmith 2, and for a recipe comprising only table sugar, it gives a FG under 1.000, as expected. So, my updated answer is try Beersmith 2 as a tool that takes fermentability into account, although it doesn't appear to offer the end user any control over fermentability percentages, only that the selection of ingredient type Grain/Extract/Sugar/Adjunct/Dry Extract alters the estimated FG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Attenuation#Brewing_Process_and_Wort_Composition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Understanding Attenuation&lt;/a&gt; - Homebrewtalk Wiki&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T18:19:23.197" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T18:19:23.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7498" CreationDate="2012-08-25T00:01:14.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wort juice will sour if left exposed to air below 150F.  You can put it in a sanitized, sealed container, but I wouldn't leave it for more than 18 hours.  Longer if you refrigerate it.  But all of this sounds like more work and more risk than just steeping it when you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T00:01:14.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7539" CreationDate="2012-08-25T03:54:34.740" Score="6" ViewCount="1545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing beer from a recipe kit, and the instructions say to put the fermenting bucket into a dark, quiet and warm place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do understand dark (because of UV) and warm (optimal temperature for the yeast), but I don't understand quiet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Environment is a room with about 8 people in it, talking to each other. So it's a bit louder than an apartment, but it's not overly loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2028" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T21:39:40.390" Title="Why is a quiet environment recommended?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7537" CreationDate="2012-08-25T08:03:28.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the quiet thing is just something that's been passed around for so long and repeated so many times it's just become a standard phrase when recommending how to handle your fermentation - I can't find any answers on the internet as to the actual reason for this recommendation (I wondered the same a little while back)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess if your fermenter was in a &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; loud environment then the reverberations might disturb the yeast somewhat and adversely affect them, and also possibly hinder them from dropping out of suspension when they're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that said, an apartment with just people talking - I think you'll be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T08:03:28.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7537" CreationDate="2012-08-25T15:24:13.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it means &quot;quiet&quot; as in &quot;calm&quot;.   If you put the fermentor somewhere where you will need the space, you may move it around or nudge it to the side when the yeast are slowing down and the agitation may encourage premature flocculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T15:24:13.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7540" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-25T16:09:34.053" Score="4" ViewCount="2807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just finished bottling my first homebrew; how it tastes in two weeks will be the ultimate arbiter of my success, but I feel like I made very few mistakes for a n00b and I don't think any of them will turn out to be fatal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the one thing that kept plaguing me throughout the process was the various bits of vinyl tubing. Here's some examples of accidents that happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tubing on my wort chiller expanded slightly from the heat of the wort and I was forced to run water through it at a sub-optimal flow to prevent a large amounts of ordinary tap water from entering the wort. There was a steady trickle leaking in no matter what I did.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The large vinyl tube I was using as a blowoff tube started to not want to stay firmly seated in the mouth of the carboy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 3/16&quot; tube (at least I think that's the size) that I squeezed over the end of my racking cane created an airtight fit... for awhile. I noticed when rinsing it that tiny little bubbles were sneaking their way in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I was forced to use two different sizes of hose to attach my bottling wand to the spigot of my bottling bucket and I could tell that when the flow got high enough it was letting a maybe-not-ok amount of air into the beer as I bottled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's got to be a better way. What can I do to prevent my equipment from working against me like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T16:26:36.050" Title="How can I make sure my vinyl tubing maintains a tight fit indefinitely?" Tags="|problems|tubing|airtight|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7540" CreationDate="2012-08-25T16:16:54.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use hose clamps on all your connections, and that will stop air getting in through the join. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worm clamps and small duct clamps are good for temporary fittings on canes, wands and carboys. They can also be used for permanent fittings, although they do eventually come loose and should be checked for tightness from time to time. Oetker clamps are better for permanent fittings since these create an even tension around the entire circumference of the hose, and don't come loose with temperature changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T16:16:54.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7540" CreationDate="2012-08-25T16:26:36.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a smaller diameter tubing in most applications.&#xA;If you dip the tubing in hot water it will allow it to stretch some more and you can get a tight fit on certain items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next clamps of some sort for certain applications can help as well.  But they create an extra step when you need or want to remove the tuning. (I removed the tubing from my racking set up each time to better clean the cane,auto-siphon)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, seeing bubbles during your racking process might not be air.  Their will be dissolved CO2 in the beer post fermentation.  The process of racking can liberate the dissolved CO2 into what looks like quite a but of bubbles running through the tubing.  I put a hose clamp on my racking set up and was still seeing those bubbles.  At that point I realized it was CO2 coming out due to the cavitation/movement of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T16:26:36.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7544" CreationDate="2012-08-25T16:28:56.050" Score="0" ViewCount="1071" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been relatively active on homebrewtalk.com, have read the cleaning chapter of &lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt; half a dozen times, and watched the instructional video that came with my kit on how to clean carboys. I let them sit filled with hot water and LD Carlson's Easy Clean (which I'm pretty sure is PBW-equivalent) overnight, rinsed them out several times, took the carboy brush to them, and there's &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; tiny, stubborn particulates that just want to stick to the side of the glass and not come out. What can I do about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T17:14:09.950" Title="Can't get my glass carboys completely clean" Tags="|cleaning|carboy|glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7543" CreationDate="2012-08-25T17:14:09.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use PBW - it'll shift pretty much anything without requiring any scrubbing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LD Carlson's Easy Clean is not the same as PBW. Easy Clean is an oxygen-based cleaner, while PBW is an alkali-based cleaner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used both, and can say without doubt that PBW is much better for cleaning carboys. With PBW the hot water is not strictly necessary, but it does help loosen sticky sugar-based soilage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T17:14:09.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-26T05:30:40.687" Score="0" ViewCount="489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing an IPA using Wyeast 1187 (Ringwood Ale) and it seems stuck.  I'm brewing 19L (5G) with an OG of 1.052 and pitched two (smacked) smackpacks of 1187 straight into the primary bucket.  I used a 1/2 tsp of Wyeast nutrient in the boil, too.  Temperature has been pretty even between 19-22C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had about 24 hours lag time before any activity, followed by furious fermentation for about 24 hours and then bubbling stopped.  It's now 5 days later and gravity is 1.026.  I'm only expecting 70% or so attenuation from using Ringwood but this seems well under (50%?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like I've done everything right (sufficient pitch rate, with nutrient, ideal temp) yet have got such a poor attenuation.  What went wrong?  Can I get it started again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T20:01:09.943" Title="Troubleshooting a stuck fermentation with Ringwood Ale" Tags="|yeast|troubleshooting|stuck-fermentation|attenuation|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-26T14:28:07.000" Score="1" ViewCount="1288" Body="&lt;p&gt;My beersmith brew sheet printout gives me some gravity numbers that I can't make head or tail of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FM5AC.png&quot; alt=&quot;How BeerSmith 2 calculates the gravity&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can the pre-boil gravity (when I haven't added 57% of the malt yet) be 1,084, while the post-boil gravity is only 1,048? Has it added the top-up water to the bottom calculation, or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've now brewed this beer. The measured pre-boil gravity was 1.023. I did not remember to measure the post-boil gravity, but after adding 10 l of water and 1,8 l of starter, the measured OG was 1.046 and the batch volume was 22,5 l.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2647" LastEditorUserId="2647" LastEditDate="2012-08-26T21:33:48.713" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T21:41:46.107" Title="How can this BeerSmith 2 gravity calculation be correct?" Tags="|specific-gravity|beersmith|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7545" CreationDate="2012-08-26T15:41:25.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That yeast needs a lot of O2 at pitching and rousing during fermentation.  Add to that the fact that it's only been 5 days.  Baby it along for another 2 weeks.  It could also be dependent on your recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T15:41:25.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-26T21:26:11.667" Score="3" ViewCount="5330" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A Few Contaminated Batches&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although most of my beers have been coming out 'clean', I've had a couple of my beers show up with what I think might be bretanomyaces or some other 'bug'.  The contamination shows-up after they're bottled and have sit at room temperature for a while.  It has that slight &quot;cherry pie&quot; flavor that shouldn't be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oxi-Clean and Star-San&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My standard cleaning process includes overnight soak of the auto siphon and plastic carboy with Oxi-Clean Free.  I put about 1/2 cup of Oxi-Clean into the carboy with 5 gallons of hot (120F) city tap water and pump it through the auto siphon.  The next day all visible material adhering to the carboy walls is gone. I triple rinse with city tap water.  I then put a few cups of properly mixed Star-San solution into the carboy, pump it through the auto siphon, swirl to hit all interior surfaces, dump the Star-San and store the equipment. Before using the carboy or auto siphon again, I repeat the Star-San step.  I don't think the contamination is from my counterflow chiller, but I'll mention that I store it full of Star-San, then during the boil, I run boiling wort through it without the chilling water turned on.  So it sits at well over 150F for 10 minutes before I start the chilling process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Salvaging Equipment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently my sanitation practices are not good enough. I presume the problem is in the carboy and racking (I don't ever secondary, just bottle).  So the question is, what should I do to &quot;bring out the big guns&quot; from a cleaning perspective.  An easy step 1 is to throw out all my vinyl hoses.  Consider that &lt;strong&gt;done!&lt;/strong&gt;.  But what to do about my auto siphon, which I'd hate to throw out.  And also my plastic carboys.  I don't see any scratching on them, and I've kept from using brushes on them, ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bringing Out the Big Guns for Cleaning/Sanitizing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What more powerful cleaning solutions are available to me?  Bleach? Boiling water? I saw something in another post about quat or something like that?  I have not used PBW, and understand it's different than Oxi-Clean, but is that going to make the difference?  I don't want to get into a religious rant about sanitizers, but is Star-San letting me down? I've never used Iodaphor, and don't know much about it.  Should I use a powerful &quot;yes-rinse&quot; sanitizer first, and a no-rinse sanitizer after?  If you have suggestions, please recommend specific concentrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T23:14:54.557" Title="Deep cleaning equipment after &quot;brett&quot; contamination" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|brettanomyces|oxiclean|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7546" CreationDate="2012-08-26T21:41:46.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just created a test recipe and when I add top-up water in the fermentation/bottling section, the water volume in the mash section decreases, the pre-boil gravity increases, and the estimated OG stays the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this tells me is that the 1.048 in your example is &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the top-up water is added.  In some places in the application, the 1.048 value is just called &quot;Estimated Original Gravity&quot;.  In your screen shot, it's got &quot;post boil&quot; in the description, which is confusing, but I think it's accurate.  It's just post boil and post top-up water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T21:41:46.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7548" CreationDate="2012-08-27T07:51:07.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although you could use bleach as a effective &quot;yes-rinse&quot; sanitizer, the chances are the bugs are in your environment, not just the equipment, so you'd have to do this before each brew, which is a bit of a pain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year I had some slight contamination issues, which I later tracked down to my forgetting the correct dosage of Star San. (That's what happens when you take a 2 year brew-break!) But to be sure, I also alternate with iodophor, since I had some on hand. No contamination in the last 4 batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mix 15ml/0.5 fl.oz. iodophor in 5 gallons. Contact time is just a minute, although I usually leave for a little longer. Iodophor is less effective on unclean surfaces, but since you've thoroughly cleaned everything, there's no problem there. Finally, the iodine does stain - I can't really see a change after a few uses, but I know that it will show eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T07:51:07.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7553" CreationDate="2012-08-27T13:33:41.697" Score="2" ViewCount="2391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to get a batch ready for labor day, so I purchased some kegging equipment and opted to keg this beer.  However, I am driving 5ish hours to a lake, where I plan to keep the keg in a ice bath once I get there.  For the transportation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.)  Should I keep the CO2 tank hooked up (particularly if its carbed to my liking prior to departure)?  At what PSI?  I realize I will need it once I get there at low PSI to dispense.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.)  I have no way to keep it cold during the ride, other than some ice packs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.)  Is it ok to keep the keg on its side during the ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.)  How long should I let it sit once we arrive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T15:19:48.270" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T15:19:48.270" Title="Transporting Pressurized CornyKegs" Tags="|kegging|keg|transport|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7552" CreationDate="2012-08-27T15:01:59.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.)  no need to keep the tank hooked up.  The keg will retain pressure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) No problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.) yep.  Just make sure it's tightly sealed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.) if there's no sediment in the keg, an hour or 2 will be fine.  Otherwise, maybe overnight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T15:01:59.017" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7557" CreationDate="2012-08-28T19:34:52.433" Score="1" ViewCount="1675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a novice and have just started home brewing from a complete starters kit.  The kit came with 2x25 litre fermentation vessels and a kit that makes 20 litres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at some beer kits which brew 10 litres, and I'm wondering if it's okay to brew them in the 25 litre fermentation vessel - does it make any difference, or should I be using a smaller vessel?  I don't know if lots more air being in the vessel would make the brewing more difficult (eg. would it be harder to control the temperature?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is greatly appreciated.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2651" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T19:41:16.567" Title="Brewing 10 litres in a 25 litre fermentation vessel?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7556" CreationDate="2012-08-28T19:41:16.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It'll be fine - the thermal mass of a few extra liters of air is insignificant. Once fermentation starts, all that air is pushed out and replaced with CO2, so contamination is not going to be a problem either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the plus side, you've got plenty of headspace for a vigorous ferment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T19:41:16.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7559" CreationDate="2012-08-28T20:40:54.383" Score="1" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very simple IPA recipe with a twist which I really liked. &#xA;It's a single malt (Pale malt, 7EBC Full-grain), &#xA;single hop IPA, but I 'dryhopped' it with tea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single temperature mash @ 66C/150F, for 60 minutes&#xA;OG:1070Gr/l, &#xA;Yeast is dry Safale US05. One package (11.5gr) on a 19L batch.&#xA;don't have my notes here but I think FG was between 1018 or such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to tweak the recipe in order to achieve a more 'dry' or crisp mouthfeel and flavor (less 'sticky', sugary, syrupy, 'full', malty). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that would allow the tea flavour to come out and shine a bit more. &#xA;What are some approaches to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mash at lower temps (which temps? any specific advice, schedules would be a great help, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replace % of the malts with rice? (like kuhnhenn double rice IPA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replace % of the malts with sugar or syrup?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a different yeast with higher attenuation? Which ones?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are some of the approaches I've read about, but I'm unsure. &#xA;Any of these a good idea? Are there other ways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2250" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-08-28T23:56:51.077" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T23:56:51.077" Title="Advice for IPA recipe (with dry mouthfeel)" Tags="|rice-hulls|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7558" CreationDate="2012-08-28T21:04:02.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it would help if we knew what mash temp and procedure you're using, but I'll take a stab at it....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mash at 146 for 90 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;rice hulls have no fermentables, so you can't replace malt with them.  You could replace maybe 10-15% of the malt fermentables with rice, corn, or sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a different yeast could help a lot.  S-04 IMO isn't very good for dry beers.  If you want to stay with dry yeast, try US-05.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;make sure you pitch enough yeast for the beer (what's the batch size and OG?) and give it plenty of time to ferment out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T21:04:02.753" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7828" CreationDate="2012-08-28T21:08:23.043" Score="1" ViewCount="3348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am exploring what in my process could have possibly caused this flaw, but it is likely old yeast propogated in a starter and then pitched, as this has not happened to me ever before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am trying to figure out, is if flavor additions (and cold serving temp) made to the beer after it has already been kegged could mask this flaw adequately for a weekend's worth of consumption (Labor Day party).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the stats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Jamil's American Wheat with the rye addition (50% 2-row, 30% white wheat, 20% rye)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-1.056 OG, 1.008 FG, hopped with centennial and amarillo; US-05&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-since primary, the beer has had a band-aid aroma (again, this question does not contemplate how this happened)...my wife likened the early flavor to dirty dishwater&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-tried zesting 2 oranges, one lemon, boiling zest in 2 cups water, straining, cooling, and pitching into keg.  After 24 hours, this seemed to dissipate the flavor.  Also, I have 2oz of Amarillos in a muslin bag in the keg.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-tonight, I may try adding more 'zest extract' to help out the front end of this beer's taste.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-is it possible to salvage?  If I ruin it further, I have a fermenter of California Common on deck that I can keg up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T16:32:45.800" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T14:06:04.753" Title="Ways of saving an band-aid beer" Tags="|off-flavor|contamination|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7562" CreationDate="2012-08-29T00:14:00.307" Score="2" ViewCount="2433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in California and I have some friends in Illinois who I would like to swap beers with.  What is the best (cheap/safe) way to send a small amount of bottled beer (maybe 1-6 12oz bottles) to someone?  It it even legal to mail beer across state lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2185" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T21:09:54.037" Title="How To Send Beer Cross Country?" Tags="|storage|bottle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7561" CreationDate="2012-08-29T03:19:57.483" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people trade beer all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is legal, except via US Postal Service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the laws around shipping via USPS are in flux, but without confirmation I'll suggest you stick to FedEx and UPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/beertrade/comments/atztu/trading_and_packaging_tips/&quot;&gt;http://www.reddit.com/r/beertrade/comments/atztu/trading_and_packaging_tips/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/beer/comments/bf7lr/beerit_i_have_a_friend_in_ny_who_doesnt_have/&quot;&gt;http://www.reddit.com/r/beer/comments/bf7lr/beerit_i_have_a_friend_in_ny_who_doesnt_have/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pack well and enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T03:19:57.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7569" CreationDate="2012-08-29T03:37:39.433" Score="3" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tested my hydrometer in distilled water at 68F and it reads 0.994. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have an original gravity reading of 1.050 do I simply add .006 to this reading or is there a more advanced formula to correctly calculate the offset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastEditorUserId="120" LastEditDate="2012-08-29T15:06:35.507" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T15:06:35.507" Title="Hydrometer Calibration and its effect on OG" Tags="|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7561" CreationDate="2012-08-29T05:02:08.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fedex.com/us/developer/product/WebServices/MyWebHelp/Services/Options/c_AlcoholShipping-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FedEx&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ups.com/wine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UPS&lt;/a&gt; both require special alcohol shipping contracts that I assume are not available to consumers. USPS prohibits all alcohol shipments.  However, you could just report the contents as &quot;glassware&quot; and I'm sure they would never know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for packaging, just use common sense. Glass bottles are not really &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; fragile — think about how they are stacked and manhandled coming off the beer distributer truck. Just pack them tight so they can't knock together and it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T05:02:08.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7563" CreationDate="2012-08-29T05:45:48.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just add the difference. The error is probably due to the paper scale shifting. To get a non-linear error, the diameter of the stem would have to have changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you should add the error back before you make any temperature correction (although it likely won't make much difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="1736" LastEditDate="2012-08-29T13:50:38.420" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T13:50:38.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7568" CreationDate="2012-08-29T07:18:55.400" Score="2" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - another novice question from me :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our brew bubbles away through the airlock for most of the day, but when I come down in the mornings it is dormant (no bubbles for the 2 minutes I was looking at it).  There is a 4 degree ambient temperature difference in the room between day and night (18C - 22C / 66F - 72F).  Would that be enough to cause the brew to go quiet over the night time?  Should I be wrapping it in a blanket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2651" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T05:50:51.053" Title="Brew stops bubbling at night" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7580" CreationDate="2012-08-29T08:15:27.793" Score="6" ViewCount="935" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to reuse the washed yeast from a previous batch of beer in my next batch. Should I make a starter for it? If so, how much of it? I looked at MrMalty, and it seems to me they tell me not to make a starter for this. So how much yeast starter should I make? Should I just repitch the washed yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T22:53:25.227" Title="Making a starter when reusing yeast" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7566" CreationDate="2012-08-29T12:32:24.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say this was probably a coincidence, if anything. Don't worry about the blanket, its not needed unless this beer is a Saison. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a reminder, the fermentation is likely taking place at several degrees higher than your ambient temp. So if you have ambient temps of 70F, the beer is likely 75F or higher if this is the first week. You'll want to bring that down nearer to 65F for virtually all ales for better quality beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T12:32:24.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7563" CreationDate="2012-08-29T13:12:10.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before doing any math whatsoever, be sure to check the packaging for the specific hydrometer you are using.  When mine broke recently, I went back to my LHBS and purchased a replacement (same store, same shelf, same brand) not only does it have different directions (above vs below meniscus) but it also has a different calibration temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're 100% sure your reading is accurate, and you're sure the adjustment is for a hydrometer with the same original calibration temp as yours, it's just addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB: The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend hydrometer adjustment calculator&lt;/a&gt; now supports different calibration temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2617" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T13:12:10.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7537" CreationDate="2012-08-29T17:04:11.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even John Palmer includes it in &lt;em&gt;How To Brew&lt;/em&gt;.  I am assuming it is in the book, although I do not have it handy - but, it is on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter9.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;web site&lt;/a&gt; at the beginning of Chapter 9:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What we need to do now is transfer it to your fermenter, make sure the wort has been aerated, pitch the yeast, and find a quiet place to put the fermenter for the next couple weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a scientific point of view, sounds travels through waves.  The varying frequencies and amplitude of the waves cause sound, which is just what we perceive through vibrations picked up by our ears.  As sounds are simplified as being vibrations, there is some degree of vibrations picked up by the fermenting vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a logical point of view, I would imagine that there are a few possibilities for creating high levels of vibration, some of them sound-related.  It would take a massive source of vibration to cause that to happen to such an extreme, though, and the net result would be some degree of agitation to the vessel.  The amount of a disturbance to have an impact, if there even is one, would come from something so loud that I doubt any of us will ever encounter.  So basically, don't put your fermenter on top of your home theater subwoofer or half-stack guitar amplifiers. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that &quot;quiet&quot; is more an attempt to imply that it is somewhere that would not be prone to bumping into or experiencing wild swings of lighting and temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastEditorUserId="638" LastEditDate="2012-08-30T13:28:12.583" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T13:28:12.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7566" CreationDate="2012-08-29T17:33:53.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you are only seeing a four degree ambient temperature change, I would imagine that your little yeasties are falling just short of their &quot;sweet spot&quot; overnight, but would not worry that there is anything to be alarmed about.  Fermentation is still carrying on, but just not at the same levels overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with an ambient air temperature difference of four degrees overnight, I doubt that you are seeing a full four degree swing in the temperature of the fermentation, as the amount of energy (or loss of energy) in the form of heat is not instantaneous.  When all is said and done, I would not foresee there being enough of a swing to actually impact the final product.  In the greater scheme of things - and as Graham points out, depending on the style - you will still end up with something tasty, most likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you get further along into the obsession/hobby, fermentation chambers go a far way to help control temperature, depending on the requirements of your brew and the design of the chamber you pursue, you will be able to create more reproducible results while minimizing the influence from external factors (i.e. controlling temperature and light.  As far as a blanket goes, I used to use towels early on, but that was more around controlling exposure to light in my glass carboys.  From your comment to your original post, I am assuming you are using a bucket, which should be fine on its own out of direct sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T17:33:53.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7572" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-29T17:51:05.603" Score="4" ViewCount="1633" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short, I have a wheat beer that has a weird band-aid phenol that isn't going away.  Rather than dumping, I thought I would try racking to a new fermentor, adding chopped dried apricots, and pitching a bit more yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue is that this beer has already been carbonated with forced CO2.  Is it possible to take a carbonated, flawed beer back to the drawing board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More simply, if a beer has carbonation, is it possible to conduct a secondary fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This actually turned out quite well.  Not ideal, but better than dumping it.  Not huge on fruit beer, but great aromatics, very clean and drinkable, wslightly acetic/tart.  Good move to try to save a beer (in lieu of the fruit, sour,age method!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-09-29T13:58:38.330" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T19:17:35.463" Title="Racking a carbonated beer from a keg back to the fermenter" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7574" CreationDate="2012-08-29T20:27:45.430" Score="3" ViewCount="5617" Body="&lt;p&gt;Me again with another question.  So there's not been much activity from my brew lately (no bubbling, only 3rd day in the fermenter).  I opened up to take the gravity and temperature (1022, 21C), so it hasn't  finished fermenting yet.  The picture below shows my beer (it's supposed to be a pale ale).  Is it infected?  It doesn't smell bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8iF2V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of my batch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2651" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T03:12:34.597" Title="Is my batch contaminated / infected?" Tags="|fermentation|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7573" CreationDate="2012-08-29T21:05:43.210" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks OK to me.  What you're seeing is a combination of CO2 coming out of solution, hop trub, and coagulated proteins.  Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T21:05:43.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7572" CreationDate="2012-08-30T02:55:32.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that having CO2 in solution will really affect fermentation or aging one way or another. The last lager I made was actually slightly carbonated after primary, presumably due to the cold temperature allowing more CO2 to stay in solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you transfer it while carbonated, be careful to do it slowly and preferably cold to avoid foaming. If you're going to put it back in a fermenter at atmospheric pressure, you might vent the keg slowly over a couple hours to get some of the CO2 out before you start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if this is just a last-ditch effort to save the beer, why don't you just leave it in the keg and add your apricots or whatnot? Or just let it sit for a couple months and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="1736" LastEditDate="2013-02-11T19:17:35.463" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T19:17:35.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7567" CreationDate="2012-08-30T12:54:25.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer: This answer has not yet been tested by experience.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saved the yeast from our last 4 brews, but I haven't used any of it yet.  Although it was my impression that the washed yeast could simply be repitched, I was planning on treating it like dry yeast, and proofing it just to test my storage more than anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll note the quantity of yeast slurry &lt;strong&gt;does&lt;/strong&gt; change on the calculator, and I don't know about you, but when I adjust the sliders to represent the near solid yeast cake I've saved, it looks like I only need half of what's there, so a starter while perfectly acceptable, should be unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2617" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T12:54:25.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-30T14:46:37.730" Score="0" ViewCount="441" Body="&lt;p&gt;My home-brew lager that I start secondary fermentation (in May) still hasn't settled, we have had spells of warm weather, and my beer still isn't clear... it has been further delayed as I had to vent the gas due to high pressure causing  leak, so this had made sediment rise again. It's been 1mnth untouched and still isn't clear enough... is there anything I can do to speed the process ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.E. if I moved it outside, would that cause too much movement and rise the sediment, or do you think I would be safe? we have a cool few days coming with cold winds.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2653" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-09-01T12:04:22.887" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T06:28:46.713" Title="Options to improve clarity and reduce sediment in a barrel conditioned lager" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|sediment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7577" CreationDate="2012-08-30T17:49:56.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you serve from the keg, the first couple of pints will be cloudy, even if the rest of the beer is clear, so you need to pull a couple of pints before you can judge cloudiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of ways to speed up sedimentation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cold crash - chill the beer to 33F for a week or longer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use gelatin finings - again, chill the beer to 33F or as cold as you can get it dissolve the gelatin in 170F water, let it cool, and add to the beer. Let it settle for 48 hours. Pour off the first couple of pints and the rest will run clear. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a true lager then you should let it sit at around 33F-39F for at least a month. This will improve the flavor considerably. If the lager is a lager-style beer kit, then gelatin is probably the quickest way, while cold crashing the least obtrusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-08-30T18:03:13.757" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T18:03:13.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7537" CreationDate="2012-08-30T20:40:55.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Quiet&quot; as in &quot;out of the way&quot;.  As in &quot;out of the way where nobody's going to knock it over or peek inside or pull the airlock stopper out and drop Legos in&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T20:40:55.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7567" CreationDate="2012-08-30T22:53:25.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't necessarily need to make a starter if you are re-pitching within a few weeks because the viability of the yeast will still be pretty high.  But, if you store the yeast for much time you should always make a starter.  This ensures that the yeast is still viable and it will help ensure the yeast are active so you don't have a long lag time during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I frequently wash yeast for use in future batches and always make a starter.  It gives me a little peace of mind because I know for certain that the yeast are viable before pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T22:53:25.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1335" CreationDate="2012-08-31T16:51:47.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to use a bucket fermenter (Ale Pail) and an Igloo Ice Cube cooler. It's not as nice as a carboy because you don't get to see what's going on, but buckets are stackable so they take up less space, and you can store other stuff inside them. I line my bucket with a garbage bage so the inside doesn't get scratched, then store all kinds of misc. homebrewing stuff in the bucket in the closet, so it takes up much less space (bottle caps, small bags of stuff, tubing, etc.). They're also easier to lift and clean. Carboys obviously also have advantages, but not so much when it comes to storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's warm out, I put the fermenter in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.igloocoolers.com/Coolers/Ice-Cube/48-Quart-Ice-Cube&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Igloo cube cooler&lt;/a&gt; with water and ice. This is known as a &quot;swamp cooler&quot;. The cooler is about 17&quot;x17&quot;x17&quot;, so you could store your buckets in there when not in use, and it would work with carboys as well. If you put a large bottles of ice in there once or twice a day (1.5-2L) you can maintain the temp in the low 60s very easily. It is not as accurate as a fridge of course and the temp will fluctuate, but if you are around to monitor it, you can get it to stay within about 4-5 degrees, even if the room is 80-90°F. This kind of temp control has given me great results and clean fermentations. Some people recommend draping a wet t-shirt over the fermenter also, since the wicking will also help with the cooling. I used to do this but have found it unnecessary for 5 gal batches, since you can fill the cooler up past the 5 gal fill line. Another reason I stopped doing the t-shirt, is because it has grown mold on it, which you don't want near your beer or in your apt. I also use the cooler for keeping beers on ice at parties :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-03-04T05:55:55.177" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T05:55:55.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1333" CreationDate="2012-08-31T17:03:18.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting a kettle that can fit over two burners on your stove is a good idea if you want to do full boils. For example, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/beer-brewing-equipment/brew-kettles/megapot-stockpot.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;10 gal megapot&lt;/a&gt; is 17&quot; in diameter. Additionally you can buy or build a &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/6ZWfJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;heat stick&lt;/a&gt; to supplement your stove burners. I have been using &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BDB4UG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an inexpensive bucket heater&lt;/a&gt; and a lot other homebrewers use this also, though it has not been tested for food safety by the manufacturer. If time and money are not an issue, you could &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/6ZWfJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;build one yourself&lt;/a&gt; with a more powerful water heating element. If you have a 30-amp washer/dryer outlet in your apt, then you could even &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;go electric&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T17:03:18.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7602" CreationDate="2012-08-31T20:01:14.183" Score="9" ViewCount="2006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I harvested yeast a few weeks back from my hefeweizen (Wyeast 3068) which I had open fermented. To harvest, I scrapped it right off the top, after ~36 hours of fermenting, with a sanitized spoon. I then plopped it in my sanitized mason jar. I am now looking to use this yeast again, and noticed a few things when I pulled the mason jar from the fridge, which leads to my questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There appears to be two VERY SLIGHTLY distinct layers of yeast&#xA;sediment on the bottom of the jar. Is one of these good, and the&#xA;other bad?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To me, this looks like a ton of yeast. Based upon the answer to the previous question...would you pitch all the 'good' yeast in this jar, or try to only pitch a portion of it? And would you make a starter?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4EJK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;harvested yeast layers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T00:25:35.417" Title="Harvested Yeast - What are these layers and do I have too much?" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7566" CreationDate="2012-09-01T05:50:51.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have personally found that a lot of yeasts are surprisingly sensitive to ambient temperature.  I have particularly seen what you describe in what I might think of as the shoulder season, particularly fall.  It is almost certainly temperature-related and a few degree temperature difference can cause some yeasts to slow down dramatically.  This isn't always a bad thing unless you are impatient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My last batch of mead (an acorn mead, as I am always trying odd things) was started in October and never really bubbled as I would have expected.  I left it in the carboy for about 9 months and finally bottled it.  It was good but not for the impatient!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my thinking is that the temperature is low enough that the yeast are sort of semi-dormant at night.  They are still fermenting your beer, just a bit slower.  Be patient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T05:50:51.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5245" CreationDate="2012-09-01T06:24:38.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Middle Ages, they used to do things like add chicken broth to beer, I kid you not (I ran into a few recipes at one point).  Alcohol itself tends to retard pathogens and if you aren't adding this sort of thing to your beer it is unlikely that you will get the right kind of pathogens growing to make you sick anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also there are a lot of places today that do wild yeast fermentation (ranging from things like kim chee which involves both wild yeasts and bacteria to some traditional alcoholic beverages).  I am actually looking at trying to do this with guanabana in the near future.  If it was dangerous, brewing never would have gotten started seriously nor, for that matter, would we eat sauerkraut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T06:24:38.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2481" CreationDate="2012-09-01T06:52:47.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just as an additional note.  I have run into similar experiences working with acorns, oddly enough.  Acorns were broiled, then added to the honey-water mixture (was making a mead) after boiling so it is possible they picked up something in between.  Additionally on that batch I had a problem with a cork losing seal and so the airlock stopped being a barrier for a short time.  So multiple problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You unless you plate and and probably run under a microscope you will never know which micro-organisms are responsible but at the same time there are several additional possibilities including those bacteria which transform alcohol into acetic acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this specific batch everything still came out ok (ok, better than ok --- it was actually one of my best batches and the combinatin of flavors was exquisit) despite the problems.  One thing about brewing is you never know the result until you are done, and things that look bad may not be bad, and vice versa so don't rush to judgement.  It doesn't look like just lacto to me though. You will have to wait and see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that the reason why this sort of thing is so highly frowned upon is that it makes consistency difficult.  You have no way of knowing if the batch will come out, and no way to evaluate or replicate success or failure.  It may come out very well, or it may come out very badly.  Time will tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T06:52:47.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7152" CreationDate="2012-09-01T07:08:50.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that mead long predates yeast nutrients.  The old Greek formula went something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Put three parts water and one part honey in an amphora in the sun for a few days.  Enjoy.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That must have been some sweet, syrupy mead.  However, the point is that if you can't get the yeast nutrients, you can always try brewing mead without them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW I have always brewed a very rustic mead--- no degassing, no yeast nutrients, just yeast, honey, water, (4:1 btw, so drier than the early Greek varieties), and optionally some additional things to flavor it.  This has always worked well for me.  I have been brewing mead now for about 20 years and never found the need to do this.  So keep in mind that you are brewing an old beverage which was simpler in times gone by, and so failures of process are very gracefully handled.  My advice is don't sweat it too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T07:08:50.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7548" CreationDate="2012-09-01T15:33:56.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clean, sanitize, keep it simple.  Infections will happen because of other things in your environment. You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; try wiping down all surfaces around which you will be working for a while.  That may help.  Also you could try replacing equipment which is inexpensive and more likely to be trouble, like stoppers and airlocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, usually your key issue is that this sort of thing will happen from time to time.  Usually it can be prevented between batches but you have to be aware that occasionally you have to do more.  this isn't quite the same thing but I did run into trouble once with something growing in several successive batches of sauerkraut probably introduced in one of the seasonings in the first contaminated batch.    Sometimes rotating equipment to another different fermentation use can be helpful (that's what solved this-- bucket going back to beer/mead and then back to sauerkraut).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T15:33:56.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7573" CreationDate="2012-09-02T03:12:34.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One more thing.  I am a fan of not opening the lid more often than necessary.  I don't take temperature and if I take gravity it is only at the very beginning and end.  Keep in mind that every time you open it up is a chance for contamination.  Most contamination will be benign which is why these little things so rarely cause problems, but once in a while you will get unlucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T03:12:34.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7725" CreationDate="2012-09-02T08:18:36.920" Score="5" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;First some background. I am in Indonesia for a bit, separated from my equipment and have had a chance to make the native fermented rice dish tape hitam (basically red rice wine without straining, eaten like a porridge.  Yes, this is beer you can eat with a fork, quite literally!).  Tape Hitam uses a mixture of cultures similar to Sake or Chinese Red Rice Wine.  I have also had Tape Putih, which is fermented cassava root using a similar process.  At least with Tape Hitam, typically the rice is just covered with a banana leaf.  No full seal or airlock is used, though the fermentation is only a few days at (tropical, no-air-conditioning) room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days ago, I had what I &lt;em&gt;thought&lt;/em&gt; at the time was intentionally fermented soursop (you may know the fruit as guanabana).  It turned out it was not intentionally fermented, but was tasty anyway and rather intoxicating.  So I figured I would try to reproduce this, possibly using it as a basis for wines made from local fruit, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my current plan (which sounds really odd to me and my 20 years of brewing experience) is to follow the process that lead to the unintentional fermentation and do as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;let 1-2 soursops fully ripen and begin to go past their ideal ripening point, then scoop out the flesh (omitting any rotten spots) and put in an enclosed tupperware dish in the refridgerator for 2 weeks.  I might add some coconut sugar or honey but haven't decided yet.  After 2 weeks I will sample and if it is any good will mix in other fruit as I feel like, and grow the fermented fruit at that point kind of like a sourdough culture, preparing of course for some spoilage at some point.  If I can get an airlock (and maybe even if I can't), I hope to try to use this as a culture for making mead as well, probably in one of the water dispenser bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done anything like this?  Any tips or tricks?  Or am I pretty much in uncharted territory here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T08:33:22.780" Title="Wild fermentation with improvised equipment, any advice?" Tags="|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-02T21:54:43.070" Score="3" ViewCount="1297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my first beer with maris otter and it came out with an ashtray/cigarette flavor. At first I assumed it had something to do with the maris otter, but later I noticed my mash tun hose clamps where completely discolored. I guess they were galvanized not stainless. Is this the source of the off flavor? Is it safe to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2659" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T17:39:30.223" Title="Galvanized steel off-flavor?" Tags="|off-flavor|safety|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7548" CreationDate="2012-09-02T23:14:54.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll have to thoroughly examine your sanitation process.  Of course we all &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; that we're doing it perfectly, but most of us are not.  Think about any equipment that might not get sanitized (for example, your ball valve coming out of the kettle -- do you sanitize it before running the wort out of it?  Look for things like this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hunch is that it's scratches in plastic that are causing you problems.  I would suggest replacing plastic equipment. i.e. hoses, siphons, etc.  Plastic is much more porous than one might think.  Don't throw the old stuff out just yet, but don't use it until your contamination problem is gone.  Then, you can re-introduce your (most expensive) old plastic equipment one piece at a time and make sure that your problems don't come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't be any problem to clean and sanitize your metal equipment with an appropriate no-rinse sanitizer.  What you've told us of your sanitation practices sound good, but you'll need to look at the entire cold-side process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A story from personal experience:  I don't think it had yet caused me contamination issues, but for the first year of brewing, I wasn't aware that you could take apart your three-piece ball valves.  There is some &lt;strong&gt;nasty&lt;/strong&gt; shit in there, where the ball sits.  I now clean it each time I brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T23:14:54.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7594" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-02T23:52:54.687" Score="2" ViewCount="1997" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering how well you folks strain your wort when transferring to primary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed my first batch last night and, aside from forgetting to take an OG reading, everything went well.  However, I was surprised at the amount of trub in the wort.  As I was poring the wort into the fermenter using a cheap strainer, I couldn't help but wonder if I should be taking more care during this step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a typical wire mesh strainer, like you might find at Target, which catches most of the trub but probably lets plenty through as well, that I used last night.  I've read somewhere (Palmer?) that you can line it with a couple layers of cheesecloth.  I also have a fine mesh strainer (like you might use to strain a consomme or something), but it would probably take upwards of 20-30 minutes to strain 3 gallons of wort through it.  I tend to think that the cheap strainer sans cheesecloth is probably fine, especially since I'll rack to a secondary before bottling anyway.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts, or accepted 'best practices' for this step? What ill effects could too much trub have in the fermentor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2640" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T18:12:04.523" Title="how well to strain wort after boil" Tags="|wort|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7594" CreationDate="2012-09-03T01:02:28.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The strainer alone is fine; no need to get cheesecloth or anything like that.  You might look into a &quot;hop spider&quot; or generally any sort of mesh enclosure for either leaf or pellet hops, which will otherwise make straining basically unnecessary.  Spend time on the things that matter more: fermentation temperature control, proper yeast pitching rates and wort oxygenation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T01:02:28.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7592" CreationDate="2012-09-03T05:02:31.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be the source.  Also note that any time you have a mixture of metals, particularly when they are touching (because of production of electric current in a manner similar to a battery), you have the possibility of corrosion which can lead to metals dissolved in your batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be extremely surprised if the solubility was enough to cause acute toxicity and yet not enough to inhibit yeast growth.  In general if it doesn't taste that bad, I wouldn't expect it to be acutely toxic.  However, excess zinc can cause malabsorption of iron and some other nutrients so it may be one of those things to be careful about.  Anything in sufficient quantity is toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general rule is:  if it tastes bad enough to poison you with most (non-heavy!) metals, you wont drink it but that is me and not advice.  Do your own research on zinc toxicity and decide for yourself what level of risk you are comfortable with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T05:02:31.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2012-09-03T06:56:00.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently become addicted on drinking pale ale. It makes those german malt flavours sing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ctfinebistro.com/blog/beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ctfinebistro.com/blog/beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2660" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T06:56:00.633" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-09-03T06:56:00.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7521" CreationDate="2012-09-03T14:33:37.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also note that at lower temperatures, fermentation may not show up the way you would expect.  I do agree though that you should be seeing something at 68F.  I few degrees lower though and you might not, so thermometer error might skew things quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to add more yeast, or just let it sit for another few days and maybe take a hydro reading (I don't use a hydro though-- I go by taste).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also see about checking during the warmest part of the day or shortly thereafter.  I would also suggest don't only look but smell.  You may be able to smell the yeast and that is a good indication of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T14:33:37.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5964" CreationDate="2012-09-03T16:51:13.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I chill my wort in place on the stovetop and transfer to my primary with an autosiphon. But I transfer to a larger metal screen strainer on top of my primary fermentor that has a paint strainer bag arranged inside it.  This strains out the debris (hops, whirlyfloc, and hot break) and helps with aeration.  I have also used a nylon stocking and the paint strainer bag over the autosiphon inflow and this works but clogs after a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2662" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T16:51:13.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7583" CreationDate="2012-09-04T05:22:03.480" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I have noticed this sort of layering in carboys during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't pitch it all.  I would just use part.  A starter may help but I have never used them.  Your basic tradeoff is that the yeast will be more active when you add it.  The downside is it is another opportunity for contamination.  My philosophy is keep it simple.  Maybe some others brew better beers and meads than I do, but it works for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T05:22:03.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7583" CreationDate="2012-09-04T14:33:48.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at this page &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_pitchrates.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_pitchrates.cfm&lt;/a&gt; by wyeast to estimate the amount of yeast you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me I would split that into 4 smaller containers, and do a starter from one of them for my next batch, while trying to be close to the amounts determined by the wyeast link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T14:33:48.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7583" CreationDate="2012-09-04T14:54:29.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom layer contains more trub, but does also contain yeast. The top layer is formed after the majority of the trub has already settled, so it's more or less pure yeast on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have too much - actually the opposite. It's best to make a starter - even though it looks like a lot of yeast, it will be vastly underpitched in a 5 gallon brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd guess from the scale on the jar that's about 80ml of yeast sediment. Washed yeast is about 1 billion cells per 2ml, but after more than 2 weeks, viability is below 50% so, 1 bn cells per 4ml is the maximum yield here. So, in the ~80ml you've got an estimated 20bn cells. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this isn't lab grade yeast culture, you'll want to pitch around twice what wyeast recommend, or about 1.5 million/cells per ml per degree plato, or 220 billion cells into a 5 gallon batch for a 1.060 beer. As you can see, the 20bn cells you have is far short of that. That's why I would use a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pitch all of it into a 1 or 2 liter starter (size depending upon how much yeast growth you want in the fermentor) and you'll get much closer to recommended pitching rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-09-04T15:00:03.333" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T15:00:03.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-04T16:36:04.430" Score="2" ViewCount="1711" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Saturday I brewed my 89th batch, an all-grain Irish Red Ale, SG 1.049.  Pitched Wyeast 1084 from an &quot;Activator&quot; smack pack dated May 2012 that I'd struck around eight hours earlier, then aerated the wort using a paddle-mixer drill attachment for two minutes.  None of these are new procedures to me, although I typically smack the pack the night before brewing instead of that morning (or make a starter on a stir-plate).  It's been around 40 hours and there's no sign of fermentation and no drop in gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will give it another day and a half before I call the fermentation failed and in the meantime will order new yeast from a more reputable source.  I probably won't receive the new yeast until Thursday or Friday, so I'm curious about what the best approach is for potentially sterilizing the wort before re-pitching should it come to that.  I can think of three options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Don't do anything.  Assume the wort is still essentially sterile after one week in the fermenter, pitch the new yeast and aerate again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Pasteurize the wort by bringing it up to around 180 degrees F, chill, pitch, aerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Add Campden tablets at some appropriate rate, let the wort sit for 24 (?) hours for the sulfites to evaporate, pitch and aerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2664" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T16:59:14.757" Title="Possible failed ferment: re-boil or campden + re-pitch?" Tags="|fermentation|campden|repitch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7603" CreationDate="2012-09-04T16:57:26.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I vote for #1.  First of all, the reason to smack a pack is to assess the viability, not to grow more yeast.  Maybe you were already aware of that.  Did it swell at all?  Your OG was higher than I like to direct pitch, but not so high as to give you real problems.  Your wort should still be OK given good cleaning and sanitiation procedures, but you could smell and or/taste it before repitching to confirm that.  IMO, pasteurization will affect the flavor and Campden won't really do anything if it's infected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T16:57:26.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7603" CreationDate="2012-09-04T16:59:14.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;WY1084 can be a slow starter. On at least 3 occasions has 1084 left me with no visible signs of fermentation for 72 hours, and then it springs into life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give it 72 hours and then decide what to do. I'd be very surprised if the yeast really are dead. More than likely you'll see signs of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use either campden tablets (1 per gallon is sufficient to kill wild yeasts in wine must, but I think that's overkill for a lightly contaminated wort.)  The sulphites also help deter oxidization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, raising to pasteurization temperature will do the same job, although you then have the hassle of chilling it again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd taste it and then decide. If you can't taste any contamination then pitching actively fermenting yeast will take care of any small levels of contaminants in the wort, and pasteurizing or sulphites are not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T16:59:14.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7561" CreationDate="2012-09-04T21:09:54.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some generic HP toner cartridges come packed in handy cylindrical bubble wrap things that are just the right size for a beer bottle. I've used those successfully, as well as just bubble wrap and paper or peanuts. As long as the bottles will not contact each other or the ground, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2503" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T21:09:54.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-04T22:08:25.660" Score="3" ViewCount="15538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to set up an Sestos D1S temperature controller. Initially, just to see if it works at all, I am trying to use it to control the temperature of my kettle. I've wired it all up correctly so that it can switch the kettle on and off, and the temperature probe is in the kettle. The temperature reading on the front is correct, but the device seems to be impossible to set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried autotuning, manual tuning, and simple manual mode. None of thes has worked properly. The only thing which does work is On/Off mode, although it seems to only switch off about 2 seconds after the temperature has gone past the set point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzgAY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sestos D1S&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I set up the time period?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Since the kettle heats up very quickly, the time period should be very short, and preferably the duty cycle kept low. Se I set the &lt;strong&gt;Ctl&lt;/strong&gt; (Control Period) to 1, for 1 second. I assumed that I would see the output switching on and off at 1Hz, but I do not. I also set the &lt;strong&gt;oPH&lt;/strong&gt; to 50, meaning that it should have a maximum 50% duty cycle. However, the output stays on for many seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I set the PID valued?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;According to the manual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;M50&lt;/strong&gt; = Integral&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt; = Differential&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;t&lt;/strong&gt; = Hysteresis Time&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this really be correct? Where is the Proportional setting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I get it to auto tune?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I followed the manual and managed to make it flash 'At', which I think means it's Autotuning. However, the temperature fluctuated wildly, and finally settled, oscillating between 53ºC and 60ºC, even though the set point was 50ºC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added: I am using the following settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;dF   0.3    (Hysteresis)&#xA;Ctrl   3    (PID mode)&#xA;M50    0    (Integral)&#xA;P   1000    (Proportional?)&#xA;t      0    (Derivative?)&#xA;Ctl    1    (Control Period: 1 second)&#xA;oP1    0    (Output method: Time Duty)&#xA;oPL    0    (Output minimum: 0%)&#xA;oPH   50    (Output minimum: 50%)&#xA;run    1    (Automatic)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Ctl at 3 (3 second period) and the output duty at 50% (display reads A 50) I an see that the output comes on for 35 seconds, then goes off for 35 seconds. This is a period of 70 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Ctl at 0 (0.5 second period according to the instuctions) the period is still 70 seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it looks like the control period is stuck at 70 seconds. Flicking through the settings, none of the numbers are set to 70 (or 35 or 140). So I don't think there's another setting which is controlling the period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Ctl  Period&#xA;40  = 40s&#xA;20  = 20s&#xA;10  = 10s&#xA; 8  =  8s&#xA; 6  =  8s&#xA; 4  =  8s&#xA; 3  =  8s&#xA; 2  = 70s&#xA; 1  = 70s&#xA; 0  = 70s&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I set P=2, I=0, D=0, Max output = 50%, and set the setpoint to 70ºC. I watched the output duty as the temperature rose slowly to 69ºC. At that point, the output duty slowly began to fall, until at 70ºC it was still at 42%. It finally settled at 79.4ºC with an output duty of 4%.  This really sounds like a fault in the control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2665" LastEditorUserId="2665" LastEditDate="2012-09-06T20:30:40.300" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T16:21:01.100" Title="How do I set up a Sestos D1S temperature controller?" Tags="|equipment|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7607" CreationDate="2012-09-04T22:53:15.507" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 3 of these in my brewery. During autotune, the temperature will go well past the set point in order to determine the amount the system will overshoot, and it will need to do this several times, meaning you may have to leave the unit for possibly several hours before the autotune is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Autotune worked well for me, so I didn't try setting the PID parameters by hand. P is the Proportinal parameter - can also be called Differential as in the manual - the output level is adjusted in proportion to the difference between the present value and the set value. &lt;em&gt;t&lt;/em&gt; is the Derivative. After auto-tune I get these values:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;M50=&lt;strong&gt;54&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P=&lt;strong&gt;1142&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;t=&lt;strong&gt;40&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for a 20 gallon kettle and a 5500W element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess why you're seeing continual power output is that you have entered the On/Off mode and oPL/oPH do not function there, since power output by definition is either fully on or fully off. Only with PID mode is output variable, and then you will see the power drop to 50% maximum specified by oPH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a diagnostic aid, you can get the device to show you the current output level. A short press of the SET button toggles between showing the SV and the output level percent. For automatic mode, you'll see something like &quot;A 50&quot; for 50% output.  You can also switch the device to manual mode either by changing the run parameter, or by holding in the Run/down button, and then dialing in manually the percent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention that in On/Off mode, the output is switched off 2 seconds after hitting the set point. This is probably because of the hysteresis parameter - &lt;code&gt;dF&lt;/code&gt; - the unit switches off when the PV &gt;= SV+dF. This is to avoid continual cycling on and off. Personally, I would have preferred if the unit switched off at the set point and then on again when the temperature had fallen past SV-dF, so the SV is the maximum temperature. The default value is 0.3C, so you'll overshoot by 0.3C before it switches off. I set dF to the smallest value, 0.1C to reduce this overshoot to a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-09-04T23:13:12.300" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T23:13:12.300" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7583" CreationDate="2012-09-05T00:25:35.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When in doubt, start it out.  All you'll end up with is healthier yeast.  Although there are arguments that trub is beneficial to yeast, I'd take the healthy section and grow it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said; many times I've just re-used yeast without separating and no starter with splendid results.  However, some caveats: 1) I always made certain there was sufficient cell count (had enough volume to do the trick) and 2) I've only brewed under tightly controlled circumstances - too much love and labor to chance open fermentation in my world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep it clean and good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2543" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T00:25:35.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7592" CreationDate="2012-09-05T00:42:08.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ouch!  I've never used hose clamps inside my mash tun - copper friction fit works just fine for this old salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you suspect zinc, put a magnet on the clamp(s).  Zinc is plated over steel, which contains iron and iron can foul a beer taste-wise in low doses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, short term exposure in a presumably high volume of wort to contact with the iron or zinc leads to the questions: what is your water profile?  And what is you malt bill?  Your ph can aggravate your flavors and attack metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second thought, how old is your beer?  A million questions in an effort to defend Maris Otter, an otherwise solid malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2543" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T00:42:08.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7624" CreationDate="2012-09-05T04:53:38.263" Score="3" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my first batch of wine a year ago, and got up to racking into secondary fermentation, but never bottled it, and then forgot about it. Is it a lost batch? Is it even safe to try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1543" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T22:55:38.787" Title="Wine max secondary fermentation time" Tags="|wine|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7614" CreationDate="2012-09-05T13:44:00.300" Score="3" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend, who has a severe sulfite allergy, wanted to try some of my beer. I had to refuse  because I wasn't 100% sure that there weren't sulfites in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are sulfites introduced to beer? I was under the impression that they are usually added as a separate preservative compound. What preservatives (that could reasonably be used in homebrewing) might contain sulfites?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any chance that other ingredients used (in a simple all-grain, minimal- or no-flavoring brew) could introduce sulfites into a beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2232" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T13:59:39.710" Title="Are there sulfites in homebrew?" Tags="|ingredients|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4094" CreationDate="2012-09-05T13:55:27.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made Heather ale about 30 to 40 years ago when I was living in Scotland. I found a recipe in a book called The Scots Kitchen by F. Marian McNeil. &#xA;I only made this once, but it was delicious and extremely fizzy, so much so that one of the plastic water bottles I kept it is burst. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe only states to use Heather, barm, hops, syrup ginger and water. There are no quantities given so it is up to the brewer to try their best with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well worth trying though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2666" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T13:55:27.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7612" CreationDate="2012-09-05T13:59:39.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wine makers (and some cider makers) use sulfites for two purposes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To kill, or at least reduce the viability of, undesirable micro organisms like wild yeasts and bacteria.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inhibit oxidation when racking, bottling and storing wine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewers generally don't use sulfites. Beer wort is sterile prior to pitching yeast, so there's no need for 1. Beer is not normally aged in the bottle, and the head of CO2 in a carbonated beer will help avoid oxygen contact, and hence oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there's usually no &lt;em&gt;added&lt;/em&gt; sulfites in home brewed beer. That doesn't mean that there are &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; sulfites. It could be that malted barley or hops contain some small amount of sulfites. Or your water supply could have trace amounts. I'll leave it to someone with a better understanding of organic chemistry to answer that aspect of your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T13:59:39.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7620" CreationDate="2012-09-05T16:09:14.540" Score="4" ViewCount="1784" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just crashed 5 gallons of German Pilsner for lagering and I noticed that my airlock starsan level was significantly lower after cooling.  I presume this is due to the liquid (beer) shrinking after a 20F drop in temp, but I am not sure how to prevent this or protect against it.  I am not terribly concerned with starsan going into the carboy, but more that it can drop below the airlock level which essentially is opening up the carboy to the air in the chest freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you handle shrinkage when crash cooling in a closed system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[edit: clarified that i was talking about the beer volume shrinking not the starsan]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastEditorUserId="2064" LastEditDate="2012-09-05T19:42:39.973" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T20:10:59.607" Title="handling shrinkage from crash cooling" Tags="|airlock|lagering|crash-cool|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7629" CreationDate="2012-09-05T16:42:29.977" Score="1" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to the homebrewing boards and I was hoping someone could help me with a quick kegerator question.  I picked up a Danby DKC146SLDB from Costco over the weekend and I just got around to setting it up yesterday.  Most of the installation went well, but there is a bit of space around the hole where the CO2 line goes from the external tank into the refrigerated portion of the unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like this could waste quite a bit of energy, as well as presenting issues with regulating the keg temperatures.  I was debating buying a bit of putty and insulating tape to put around this area, but I was curious if anyone else has encountered this issue.  Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2667" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T12:49:38.370" Title="Kegerator CO2 Line" Tags="|co2|kegerator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6992" CreationDate="2012-09-05T17:35:47.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this is answered, but if the beer is tasted better later, I doubt it's an infection. This might be totally off-base, but when you move to a keg and refrigerate, unless you filtered before transferring, the remaining yeast and sediment particles are going to settle to the bottom of the keg. The dip tube on a corny keg is pulling from the bottom, so when you go to taste the first few pints they will be cloudy and taste really bad because you're drinking all the yeast and sediment. I have been tossing the first few pints of a newly kegged batch, though I suppose you could let them settle and decant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T17:35:47.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7615" CreationDate="2012-09-05T17:44:49.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had this problem. Here are some ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;overfill the airlock if it's a 3 piece   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a blow-off tube with a bucket &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get a dry trap airlock from better bottle &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.better-bottle.com/products_master.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.better-bottle.com/products_master.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea that you'd get enough shrinkage to really notice it sounds dubious to me though, seems more likely that it's leaking into your carboy or evaporating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T17:44:49.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7615" CreationDate="2012-09-05T18:01:43.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem. Once I cold-crashed a Better Bottle after plugging the opening with a solid stopper and the carboy puckered up. You can see the same effect if you put an opened bottle of warm soda in the fridge. I assume the air shrinks more than the liquid, but perhaps it's a combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes me a little uneasy, because once there is negative pressure in the carboy, air and contamination can slowly be drawn in. Even if you can get an airtight seal, as soon as you remove the stopper / blow-off tube, there's an inrush of air and oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution has been to transfer to a keg before I cold crash and slightly pressurize the keg with CO2. This has several benefits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is enough pressure to resist the shrinkage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beer is protected by CO2 for storage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will speed up the carbonation process later on since there will already be some CO2 in solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually pressurize to 10 psi or so and then disconnect it. After a week or so the pressure has dropped almost to zero due to shrinkage and dissolution, but that's OK. You could also just leave it hooked up to the CO2 tank and carbonate it at the same time. Aging and carbonation don't interfere with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T18:01:43.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7615" CreationDate="2012-09-05T18:05:57.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't bother with an airlock at that point.  Just put some foil over the opening and hold it on with a rubber band.  There's nothing outgassing at that point so there's no need for an airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T18:05:57.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7946" CreationDate="2012-09-05T18:38:43.760" Score="2" ViewCount="1766" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I made Jamil's California Common (minus the chocolate malt) with Wyeast Bavarian Lager yeast (2206).  Fermentor samples tasted great, I had about 82% attenuation, so the 'flat' samples were nice and dry.  I dry-hopped for 7 days with some extra northern brewers i had lying around, and they did give it a minty/woodsy aroma, I didn't get what I was about to get after it was kegged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a quick force carbonation (high psi, shaking) and transported the kegged beer quite a ways.  This was the first beer I've kegged, and while it was good, I noticed an intense (yet sort of pleasant) lemon aroma.  The taste was extremely malty, almost sweet up front with a dry (ing) finish.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose that it could have simply been that the beer didn't have enough time to settle out with all the shaking (between my force carbing and the car ride), as we drank it in about 36 hours.  Maybe I was just tasting yeast as the beer was a touch cloudy.  Also thinking that the profile of this yeast just accentuated the already-malty beer, which I perceived as lemon.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weirdest thing is, I didn't perceive it when it was flat, but did when it was carbed.  Does this sometimes happen when kegging?  I've never noticed this much of a difference between flat beer and bottle-conditioned.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-09-05T18:48:05.193" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T05:26:53.003" Title="lemon flavor after kegging" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7616" CreationDate="2012-09-05T22:30:50.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd just shoot a bit of insulation foam, like &quot;Great Stuff&quot; into there and the tape it off so it looks pretty (the foam discolors after just a short time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is your hole near the top or the bottom of the unit? Since cool air sinks, you have less potential for an energy-consuming leak if the hole is nearer to the top. Top-lidded deep freeze units work on this principle--even when you open the lid, very little cool air is lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T22:30:50.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7628" CreationDate="2012-09-05T22:34:02.217" Score="4" ViewCount="1130" Body="&lt;p&gt;We want to made sweet low ABV cider. How to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that yeasts are dying somewhere between 10 and 15% ABV but we want our cider to be between 2 and 5% ABV. We can interrupt fermentation and bottle it when the desired ABV is achieved but how to convince yeasts to produce just right amount of bubbles and die afterwards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2669" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T01:22:23.813" Title="How to keep sugar from fermentation and carbonization?" Tags="|fermentation|carbonation|cider|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7611" CreationDate="2012-09-05T22:55:38.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think secondary &quot;fermentation&quot; is kind of a misnomer, since fermentation is largely complete by this point. It's more of a secondary &quot;clarification&quot; stage where yeast and other stuff falls out to the vessel bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this, I think it would certainly be safe to try. All of the alcohol is already in there, acting as a natural preservative. If anything else has been growing in there, it will just look/taste awful, but won't be dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, a year of aging is the basic minimum for wine. It doesn't really matter whether it ages in a carboy or a bottle--the important thing is that it is sealed against oxygen. If it wasn't (i.e. your airlock ran dry after a month or two) then the wine is likely somewhat oxidized. Again, not dangerous, but it might not taste as good as it could have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, don't chuck it without tasting it! So many great batches are lost this way, when people assume that it must be bad. Beer/wine is very resilient. You could have a nice wine waiting to be bottled!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T22:55:38.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7623" CreationDate="2012-09-05T23:28:15.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pasteurize your bottle product after you've added the sugar for sweetening.  Place bottles in a 165F water bath for 20 minutes.  That will inactivate any yeast in the bottle.&#xA;This will produce a still cider obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want carbonation, you can experiment with opening a bottle every day until the carbonation is good.  Then pasteurize as described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T23:28:15.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7623" CreationDate="2012-09-06T01:41:09.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other options include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filtered_beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;filtration&lt;/a&gt;. This technique has the disadvantage of removing some flavour along with the yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/finishin.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;addition of potassium sorbate and sulfite&lt;/a&gt;. This one adds some undesirable flavours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these techniques, you'll need to carbonate mechanically from a CO2 task, as the yeast have been disabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2012-09-06T14:00:54.060" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T14:00:54.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7653" CreationDate="2012-09-06T07:27:06.900" Score="3" ViewCount="3414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of planning my next mead batch, and I wondered if it would be a good idea to step-feed this one since I am planning a high ABV (18%). How would I do this best? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recipe looks like this for now: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 US gal total target volume&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5.3 kg honney (amounts to about 3.7 litres)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kitzinger Portwine yeast (max ABV of 18%)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some yeast nutrients and salts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now my basic idea is to start with about 7.5 litres of water and 2 kg of honey and a third of the nutrients. When the SG has dropped by about a third (should be around 1.044 SG) I'll add another 2 kg and wait for the SG to drop to 1.044 again, then add the rest and let it ferment out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the best way to do this, or is there something I missed in my research?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2018-01-20T00:49:19.793" Title="How to proceed when step-feeding a mead" Tags="|fermentation|mead|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7623" CreationDate="2012-09-06T12:26:18.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;We want to made sweet low ABV cider&lt;/em&gt;&quot; - Then you don't REALLY want to ferment straight apple juice. I would recommend &lt;strong&gt;making a &quot;&lt;em&gt;Graff&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;, which is a low-ABV &quot;malted cider&quot;. Basically its a cider that uses ale yeast and a small portion of malt extract to add some unfermentable sugars and to round out the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a great read on it: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f81/graff-malty-slightly-hopped-cider-117117/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f81/graff-malty-slightly-hopped-cider-117117/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done it before and it was one of the most popular batches I've made. It does NOT taste like beer at all. It tastes like a sweet, rich cider. Furthermore, its ready within 6-7 weeks, (as opposed to 6-7 months for normal cider) and can be as low ABV as you want really (although I'd stick to about 5% to keep it from being 'thin').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T12:26:18.207" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7616" CreationDate="2012-09-06T12:49:38.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The putty idea will work just fine. Tape will also work, but use something that won't dehydrate and become permeable such as &quot;foil tape&quot; or &quot;tuck tape&quot; (which actually has an R value of 2.5!). If using putty or tape, seal both sides of the hole (either side of the insulation). Spray foam will work great however it is very difficult to re-seal a can of &quot;great stuff&quot; so to use an entire can for a tiny hole would be a waste. Whenever I use that stuff I make a list of areas around the house to spray/ fill so I can be sure to use the entire can. That stuffs not cheap!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T12:49:38.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7633" CreationDate="2012-09-06T15:36:09.203" Score="1" ViewCount="975" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know typically, hefeweizens and wits are best drunk while 'young', but what are the styles that are most conducive to a quick turnaround?  I also know alcohol content is a factor.  Have people had success with milds, O bitters, cream ales, and what are the timetables?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is most of my brews (including some of the 'best while young' styles) have seemed to improve with age.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T23:34:42.820" Title="What are the quickest styles from grain to glass" Tags="|fermentation|aging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7630" CreationDate="2012-09-06T20:49:48.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most hop-forward styles are better when young. Hoppy pale ales, IPAs, etc. Hop aroma fades quickly over the first few months after brewing so it helps to drink them young. If you wait they will still make tasty beers but most of the hop contribution will be bitterness rather than pungent tropical fruit/grapefruit/piney notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T20:49:48.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7623" CreationDate="2012-09-06T21:26:07.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get the bubbles you want, you'll probably have to rely on yeast attenuation.  Get a low attenuating yeast so that it stops fermenting when there's still a decent amount of sugar left.  When bottling, add some more sugar to wake them up and carbonate the bottles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want more sweetness, use a non fermenting sugar like lactose or splenda.  I use lactose in my hard lemonade which works out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2196" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T21:26:07.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7630" CreationDate="2012-09-06T23:34:42.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Session beers at 1.045OG or less.  Over pitched slightly coupled with the ability to keg, I've turned these types of beers around pretty quickly.  Any style and yeast are fair game.  Just pitch active yeast and keep the starting gravity low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific styles that are great for fast beers are English Ordinary Bitter and Special Bitter.  English dark and light Milds are great also.  I've also turned around a low gravity dry stout in about 12 days, grain to glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T23:34:42.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7637" CreationDate="2012-09-07T04:05:04.337" Score="3" ViewCount="3649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I know the answer to this, but I'd like to see an answer listing more conclusively the different reasons why this happens. Some causes I've seen listed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High pressure plus shaking can cause beer to get into the CO2 coupler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dual CO2 regulator hooked up to two kegs, one has higher pressure than the other due to switching gas on and off and regulating at different pressures, pushing beer out when both are opened&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This just happened to me and I didn't realize my dual regulator didn't have check valves in the shutoff valves. Luckily beer only got as far as the valves, but not all the way up into the regulator, but I just ordered some new valves with check valves and will be swapping them out when they get here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T20:01:31.927" Title="Why did beer get into my gas lines from my corny keg?" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|co2|corny-keg|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2973" CreationDate="2012-09-07T05:03:08.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Damprid no-doubt is an effective solution to the excess moisture condensing in the fridge HOWEVER this is simply a band-aid solution to temporarily correct the symptoms of the problem and not a cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an excess of humidity in your climate, AND frequently open the door, it's possible the moisture is naturally collecting in your kegerator however this is unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more likely cause is an incomplete seal around your door allowing outside (humid) air to enter the kegerator freely and continuously deposit the moisture on the cold surfaces inside. This is evident by the massive amounts of water condensing inside the fridge (enough to form pools). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution and cure to the root cause of the problem is to ensure a proper seal around all sides of the door (and insulate/seal any holes such as those drilled for the tap lines). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to check all sides of the seal, most likely there is a gap somewhere along the vinyl/magnetic strip. Often 2 or 3 of the 4 sides seal correctly but there will be a gap on the fourth side (usually the one hardest to inspect). Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2671" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T05:03:08.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7634" CreationDate="2012-09-07T05:14:56.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer will come out of the gas line when both of these conditions occur:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pressure in the keg is higher than whatever's on the other side of the gas line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is beer in the gas dip tube or post (either because you've overfilled the keg or because the keg was shaken or lay on its side).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once over-filled a keg such that the gas dip tube was partly submerged. I then tried to vent the keg by pressing the gas poppet (pin lock keg) and beer shot everywhere. If I'd hooked up the gas side to a regulator set to a lower pressure than the keg, beer would've flowed up the gas line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="1736" LastEditDate="2012-09-11T20:01:31.927" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T20:01:31.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7634" CreationDate="2012-09-07T14:29:41.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pressure will attempt to equalize. By that I mean if you have one container with PSI of 10 and a PSI of 15 in another, then pressure will become 12.5 in both containers. In doing so, the contents (beer) will end up traveling to the vessel of lower pressure (the CO2 regulator) from the vessel of higher pressure (the keg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2525" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T14:29:41.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7639" CreationDate="2012-09-07T16:13:10.960" Score="5" ViewCount="8405" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the question says, the pack arrived pre-smacked! I'm making a yeast starter before I brew so that'll tell me whether the yeast is ok, but what I need to know is whether to keep it in the fridge when it's in this state. (A great answer will give me insight into why I should or shouldn't.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T18:41:12.430" Title="Wyeast pack arrived already inflated - keep in the fridge or not?" Tags="|yeast|smack-pack|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7638" CreationDate="2012-09-07T17:05:21.970" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, keep it in the fridge if you don't plan to use it in the next 24 hours. There are two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lower temperature will reduce yeast activity, reducing the buildup of more CO2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lower temperature will reduce the pressure of the gas already in the pack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as these reasons, Wyeast &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_productdetail.cfm?ProductID=16&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;recommend&lt;/a&gt; you store the pack (swollen or not) in the fridge to maintain viability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I wouldn't put it in the fridge is if you plan to use it the same day or the day after. Then it's best to keep the yeast warm so they don't go dormant. This will reduce lag times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That the pack has already swelled is not a problem, just possibly an indication that it has been above fridge temperatures. It's not actually &quot;smacked&quot; - the small sachet of media is most likely still intact, and if you can get to it and pop it the day before using the yeast, that will be good, but not essential as you're making a starter, so you could also just cut open the pack and pour the yeast into your starter, and forget about the packaged media.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-09-09T16:47:25.607" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T16:47:25.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-07T17:39:02.880" Score="2" ViewCount="1663" Body="&lt;p&gt;This summer I bought some fresh tart cherry extract from the area I grew up in Northern Michigan, and I've been excited to use it in a recipe.  Any recommendations on what style would be good with some subtle cherry notes?  I'm leaning toward something like a Cherry Vanilla Porter.  Would an IPA work, or would the hops and cherry work against each other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I want something quaffable and delicious. What could I use for the grain bill to get somewhere in the amber range, but not go overboard with the nut or chocolate flavors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastEditorUserId="2573" LastEditDate="2012-09-07T19:52:09.453" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T07:12:28.317" Title="Recommendations for a beer style w/ Cherry Extract" Tags="|fruit|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7640" CreationDate="2012-09-07T18:06:46.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel tart cherries will work with a variety of styles, but to speak to my own personal experience, I have made a Lambic (Kreik) and IPA with fresh mountmorency (tart) cherries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Lambic turned out great, and would highly recommend that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The IPA, not so much. As you stated, the citrus/pine flavors from high levels of late addition hops completely conflicted with the tartness from the cherries. I would highly recommend staying away from this option, and staying close to options with low hop flavoring/aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And another thing to remember, when using the tart cherries, you lose most of the cherry sweetness to fermentation. IMO, the tartness works best when you also have enough sweet. So i would recommend using higher levels of non-fermentable sugars (possibly lactose in your porter/stout) or specialty grains which have greater residual sweetness post fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT &amp;amp; DISCLAIMER&lt;/strong&gt; My cherries were from Wisconsin, so I can not vouch for the effectiveness of brewing with an in-superior tart cherry extract...from Michigan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastEditorUserId="2518" LastEditDate="2012-09-07T18:30:58.723" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T18:30:58.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7640" CreationDate="2012-09-07T19:44:05.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a dark brown ale with tart cherry concentrate added in secondary. It works better with malt-forward recipes, rather than an IPA. There will be quite a bit of tartness, especially when young so I think it balances better with sweetness rather than hop bitterness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tartness smooths out with age and after 2 months or so more of the cherry flavor comes out. My recommendation is to age it at least a month after bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Here's the grain bill (5 gal):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 lb Maris Otter &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lb Crystal 120L &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lb Crystal 60L &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lb CaraPils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 oz Williamette @ 60 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 oz Williamette @ flameout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastEditorUserId="2126" LastEditDate="2012-09-07T20:23:10.677" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T20:23:10.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-07T22:42:46.690" Score="5" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;My kegerator is stored in the garage, and lately fruit flies have been flying into the open ends of the faucet to drink the beer (and subsequently die).  Hence, I've been getting a fly with every glass.  While some might appreciate the additional protein, I'd like to get rid of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else had this problem?  How did you deal with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2023-04-23T05:50:52.653" Title="Fruit flies in kegerator faucets" Tags="|kegerator|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7643" CreationDate="2012-09-07T22:45:59.247" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use some faucet soothers, or faucet spout plug. This keeps the flies out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jQsTa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T22:45:59.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7640" CreationDate="2012-09-08T07:12:28.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with hartski on avoiding the IPA combo.  If you want to fruit up an IPA, try apricots, otherwise keep heavy hopping away from a fruit beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For mass appeal, try a sweet kriek in the style of Lindeman's.  Take a kriek recipe, swap out the funky yeast / bacteria for a normal ale yeast and add lactose to sweeten.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Like bk0 said, cherries would complement a brown ale well.  I've done it with raspberries using this recipe: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f75/requiem-raspberry-56285/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Requiem Raspberry&lt;/a&gt;.  Described as a &quot;panty dropper&quot; in that forum.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While you said not to go nuts with the chocolate flavours, I can't help but post this recipe.  I've not made it myself but it makes me drool and I'll be brewing it when cherry season hits the southern hemisphere again.  Stolen straight out of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/077880268X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this book&lt;/a&gt;, page 318.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Valentine Imperial Porter&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Grains&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lb / 450g UK crystal malt (60 L)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 oz / 224g UK brown malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 oz / 224g UK chocolate malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Malt extract&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 lbs / 3.6kg any UK brand dark&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bittering Hops&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 to 6 AAUs medium-alpha acid (e.g. Northern Brewer) - 60 minute boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Later additions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lb / 450g Lactose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lb / 450g Demerara sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 oz / 224g high-quality unsweetened cocoa powder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cherries&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5-10 lbs / 2.25-4.5kg Fresh cherries &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3-6 lbs / 1.4 - 2.7kb Frozen cherries &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.5-5 lbs / 1.13 - 2.25kg Dried cherries &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;16 fl. oz / 475mL black cherry concentrate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+/- 4 fl. oz / 118mL cherry flavouring or extract, to taste at bottling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Yeast&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wyeast 1187 / White Labs WLP011 / Fermentis S-04&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T07:12:28.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7638" CreationDate="2012-09-08T07:15:57.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/faqs.cfm?website=1#r40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Wyeast site&lt;/a&gt; they recommend that swollen packs can still safely be sold to customers.  They make no mention that refrigeration is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the causes of swollen packages? Can you sell them?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Swollen packages are almost always the cause of a small amount of&#xA;  sugar or CO2 being left in solution at the time of packaging.  Upon&#xA;  shipment, CO2 can be released from solution or  the yeast can consume&#xA;  the sugar and create a small amount of CO2.  Cell autolysis, or cell&#xA;  death can also be a cause of swelling packaged.  However, this is only&#xA;  in rare cases where the yeast is exposed to high temperature for an&#xA;  extended amount of time.  If a package is swollen and  has not been&#xA;  mishandled, it can be sold with confidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T07:15:57.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7627" CreationDate="2012-09-08T08:37:41.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember reading about a similar technique in Ken Shcramm's The Compleat Meadmaker. Sounds like a good start to me. Be sure to add the remaining nutrients when you add the rest of the honey as well (I'm sure you intend to, but you didn't mention it in your post).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't get you the ABV you want, then I'd try breaking it up into more than three additions or waiting for the gravity to go a little lower before adding more honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1038" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T08:37:41.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7643" CreationDate="2012-09-08T12:04:48.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use some rubber stoppers that just fit right up in there.  Size 4's I think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also spray a little star san up in there before i plug them up to keep mold from forming too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T12:04:48.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7650" CreationDate="2012-09-08T14:55:44.807" Score="2" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;So obviously I'm reading all o the advice floating around to skip racking to secondary. And it makes perfect sense.  But if I primary a 5 gal batch in a 6.5 gal bucket, does the headspace/surface area become a concern after fermentation slows?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Are you guys that are doing long primary's using buckets or 5 gal carboys with blowoff tubes?&#xA;Will I be ok leaving a beer in primary ( in a 6.5 gal bucket ) for 2-3 weeks while the yeast finishes cleaning up?&#xA;My assumption, because I haven't seen this addressed anywhere is that there's nothin to worry about. However it does beg the question then;  why is headspace/ surface area an issue in secondary but not in primary?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hope this question makes sense, I'm typing On my phone while waiting for a haircut:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2640" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T15:01:55.707" Title="Oxidation during long primary" Tags="|oxidation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7649" CreationDate="2012-09-08T15:01:55.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason it's not an issue in primary is because the headspace is full of CO2 - all the oxygen has been purged and replaced with CO2 many many times over during fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you rack to secondary, the headspace is full of air - 21% oxygen - so you want to minimize the headspace to reduce both the surface area of the wort and the amount of oxygen available. Also, since secondary is started before FG is reached, there is still some small CO2 production going on that will push out the small amount of air. But there wouldn't be enough CO2 produced to push out all the air from the headspace you get in a bucket, unless you are truly doing a secondary ferment, such as with additional fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T15:01:55.707" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7652" CreationDate="2012-09-08T23:07:24.843" Score="5" ViewCount="966" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine this scenario: you have a an extract recipe that contains a pound of steeped caramel malt. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.promash.com/FAQ/faq_diff.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.promash.com/FAQ/faq_diff.html&lt;/a&gt; the average efficiency of steeped malts is around 30% (as steeping is mostly for color/flavor), so you can calculate the GU potential and take 30% of that for the original gravity estimate. Essentially GU = PPG * weight / gallons * efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now imagine I change the recipe, and use pale malt as a base instead of the extract turning it into an all-grain recipe. I assume at this point I would throw the caramel malt in with the mash, which has an average efficiency of something like 75%. Does that mean I take 75% of the pale malt GU and 30% of the caramel, or 75% of both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words - does the act of mashing rather than steeping a caramel malt cause the efficiency to change, and if so to what degree? I am looking for a way to calculate the estimated original gravity while taking efficiency into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2488" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T15:39:03.113" Title="How does efficiency change when adding grains that are normally steeped to a mash?" Tags="|mash|efficiency|calculations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7651" CreationDate="2012-09-09T01:26:17.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an efficiency difference - while a lot of the starch in caramel malts have been converted, there is still some remaining that can be extracted in a mash, but not in a steep. Also, the mash is typically done for longer than a steep, plus a sparge, which extracts more sugars from the grain. 30% extraction for a steep seems on the low side - but let's go with that for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In principle, if you were getting 30% extraction but now get 75%, then you would need to use 30/75 = 40% of the original 1lb of speciality malts to arrive at the same gravity. But doing that means you are going to lose a lot of color and flavor, that being the main contribution from the speciality malt. Instead, to preserve the color and flavor, keep to the 1lb of speciality malts and adjust the quantity of pale malt to account for the increased GUs from the speciality malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how many additional points from the speciality malt are you getting with the increased efficiency? Assuming your 1lb of speciality malt is a mainly mix of caramel malts, which have a typical yield of 35 points, then you'll now get 35*0.75 = ~26 ppg compared to 35*0.30 = 10.5 ppg from the original efficiency. Scaling that to a 5 gallon batch, that's about 5 points vs. 2 points, so you'll gain an &lt;strong&gt;additional 3 points&lt;/strong&gt; with the increased efficiency in the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To hit the same OG as the original recipe, you then reduce the amount of basemalt so that it produces 3 points less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing calculators, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Calculus&lt;/a&gt; make this process a lot simpler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;30%?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;30% yield from steeping does seem a little low to me - 50% is probably a better estimate of typical steep efficiency across all malts. In practice it varies for each malt type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, caramel 40L has a typical potential extract of 35 points. John Palmer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter13-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reports&lt;/a&gt; that after steeping caramel 40L he gets 22 points, so an efficiency of 22/35 = 62%.  That's the best efficiency reported for the malts tested and is because most of the starches are already successfully pre-converted during the special malting process used to produce these medium crystal malts. The efficiency of dark crystal and chocolate was lower - 45% and 42% respectively. Averaging all of these (taking typical quanities into account) gives about 50% which is often quoted as the typical extract from steeping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-09-09T15:39:03.113" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T15:39:03.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7627" CreationDate="2012-09-09T12:57:30.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the podcast &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/07/26/moonlight-meadery-with-michael-fairbrother-beersmith-podcast-43/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Moonlight Meadery&lt;/a&gt;, Michael Fairbrother talks about stepped nutrient additions (around the 15:00 mark). He adds all the honey all at once, but staggers the addition of yeast nutrients and degasses as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure it's also fine to add the honey in several additions. The advantage there is that you're not stressing the yeast with such high osmotic pressures at the beginning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He claims a 3 month turnaround time with the staggered additions technique. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T12:57:30.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7868" CreationDate="2012-09-09T17:17:47.647" Score="5" ViewCount="2437" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lalvinyeast.com/71B.asp&quot;&gt;Lalvin's website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...has the ability to metabolize high amounts (20% to 40%) of malic acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also says that it produces &quot;rounder, smoother...&quot; wines. I'm thinking this would be a nice match for an attempt at something with a lot of apple cider in it - like a cyser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do I not understand the implications of malic acid in a finished product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1038" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T00:13:20.753" Title="Would Lalvin's 71B-1122 make a good cyser?" Tags="|yeast|mead|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7643" CreationDate="2012-09-09T22:06:06.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to brewchez, I keep a spray bottle of sanitiser in the kegerator and clean out the tap spouts after each session. I haven't found a need to cap the taps as well, and I'd be hesitant of capping them without cleaning the inside of them first due to mould, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T22:06:06.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7678" CreationDate="2012-09-10T03:12:01.020" Score="2" ViewCount="1545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my kit and am about to brew for the first time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was warned to not use bottles that have sat out uncleaned because there can be mold in them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell if there is mold in my bottles?  Can I safely clean and remove the mold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2670" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-09-10T13:53:00.330" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T23:02:33.010" Title="How can I tell there is mold in my bottles?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|bottle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7656" CreationDate="2012-09-10T12:03:52.367" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will most commonly see the growth of mold on the bottom of the bottle, when holding the bottle up to a light. If you do see mold, fill the bottle with your &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/star-san.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sanitizing solution&lt;/a&gt; and scrub with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/beer-bottle-brush.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bottle brush&lt;/a&gt;. Then, if it was me, I would rinse and sanitize once more&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If after sanitizing your bottles you can not see any mold in the bottle, you are OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T12:03:52.367" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7663" CreationDate="2012-09-10T19:17:00.913" Score="3" ViewCount="4004" Body="&lt;p&gt;First lager (Oktoberfest, Wyeast 2206), just took a sample after 3 weeks in the primary, and it tasted great (my friend said he picked up some candylike sweetness (diacetyl), but it could be because I asked him if it tasted like butterscotch, and it was front of mind, as I didn't detect any)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to actually take a gravity reading tonight (I was so excited to taste it last night that I forgot to pull enough to measure) and do the forced diacetyl test.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what is the purpose of lowering the temp to lagering temp SO.  DARNED.  SLOWLY?  I've read that is should be 1 degree per day, which means this won't get to lagering temperature for 22 days, then another 4-5 weeks lagering!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know patience is key, you can't rush lagers, etc. etc. etc., but if its going to use up my only fermentation fridge for 12 weeks grain to glass, lagers seem pretty impractical.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the harm if I lowered 5 degrees per day until it got to 35 degrees F?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I do say so, this tastes really really good right now.  Very clean maltiness (Jamil's Oktoberfest/Marz) Maybe this should be a separate question, but what flavor compounds does lagering cause to precipitate?  I feel like I could almost carbonate and drink this right now (don't worry, I won't)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T18:59:07.083" Title="Lowering to Lagering Temp, how will the beer taste different after lagering" Tags="|lager|lagering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7661" CreationDate="2012-09-10T20:25:21.030" Score="4" ViewCount="1444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was talking with a fellow brewer who has been brewing for many years and found out that he does not put any liquid in his 3 piece airlocks. He claims that next to nothing can get in even without the water that there so he just stopped, and he claims the water is just to see the gas coming to to show that it is fermenting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is liquid actually required in the 3 piece airlocks?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;note: his beers always taste great and never seem to get infected.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T21:01:24.993" Title="3 Piece Airlock without Liquid" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7660" CreationDate="2012-09-10T21:17:55.123" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look up Pasteur's goose-neck flask experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Passive environmental dust/contaminants wouldn't be able to get through a 3-piece airlock, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More active actors (fruit-flies, spiders, ants, &amp;amp;c.) would; liquid would be an effective deterrent to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, gas exchange would be possible w/o liquid.  During active fermentation, there's enough pressure from the produced CO₂ to prevent this very effectively, but once fermentation subsides, the air will begin to mix/normalize with the CO₂ in the headspace.  The relatively small area of the airlock stem would limit this pretty effectively, though, I would think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T21:17:55.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7660" CreationDate="2012-09-10T21:21:32.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Liquid in the airlock is required if you want an airtight seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't care about having an airtight seal, then you don't need liquid. By not having an airtight seal, you risk air getting into your fermentor and bring along things which you may not like (i.e. oxygen, bacteria, etc.). Now with the 3 piece, the risk is less because you at least have a piece of plastic resting on the tube which actually enters the carboy. But, alas, it is not an airtight seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yoU1Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2013-12-30T21:01:24.993" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T21:01:24.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7659" CreationDate="2012-09-10T21:46:27.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you like the taste now, then there's almost no need for any kind of temperature gradient. Crash to as low as you can , e.g. 30F,-1C and let the yeast and chill haze fall out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial breweries don't leave their lagers sitting around for months, it's just not necessary if your fermentation temperature profile is good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T21:46:27.880" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7659" CreationDate="2012-09-10T22:04:29.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The purpose of lowering the temperature slowly is to avoid shocking the yeast, which might hibernate and fall out of solution. You want the yeast still (a little) active for the lagering phase. &quot;Cold crashing&quot;, on the other hand, involves dropping the temperature dramatically to encourage the yeast to flocculate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a lager expert, but 1 degree / day sounds unreasonably slow. I've heard 5 or 10 degrees per day. The last lager I made, I adjusted the fermentation fridge 3 degrees every 12 hours or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="1736" LastEditDate="2012-09-11T17:39:44.343" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T17:39:44.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7418" CreationDate="2012-09-11T00:52:39.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Tallie has it right.  It's likely a trade-off between stressing the yeast with CO2 and having oxidized beer.  I would add that degassing or adding O2 after fermentation has started also introduces a mostly unnecessary step, creating more work for the brewer and increasing the risk of contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how early in fermentation we're talking about, O2 &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; actually be added to beer.  From &lt;em&gt;Yeast&lt;/em&gt;, by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff, p 83:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If it is a very high-gravity wort, more than 1.092 (22 ºP), you must aerate with pure oxygen, as air will not pvodie a high enough level of dissolved oxygen.  &lt;strong&gt;Unfortunately, that still might not be enough for beers higher than 1.083 (20 ºP) For high-gravity beers, adding a second dose of oxygen between 12 and 18 hours can help fermentation speed and attenuation.&lt;/strong&gt; (O'Conner-Cox and Ingledew, 1990)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, we're not talking specifically about degassing, but it should be noted that oxygen is sometimes added to beer after fermentation has started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T00:52:39.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7670" CreationDate="2012-09-11T03:27:39.663" Score="1" ViewCount="2507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I intended on brewing tonight so I broke the activator on my Wyeast 1450 last night. Only today did I realize I'm missing a fermenting bucket to actually ferment with (d'oh, big mistake!), so I'll have to wait until tomorrow when the local homebrew shop opens to pick up another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wyeast pack is completely swelled and I'm worried that my yeast will begin to die off before it's even grown. Will it still be good tomorrow? How long between activating the Wyeast pack do I have to use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2679" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T13:39:56.323" Title="Wyeast Activator Swelling Expiration time" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7666" CreationDate="2012-09-11T12:17:10.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest use this as a chance to make a starter. Get some DME, cook it and make a 1.040 SG wort of it. When it has cooled to fermentation temp pitch the yeast and aerate as much as possible. To calculate the right amount of starter, use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T12:17:10.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7666" CreationDate="2012-09-11T13:07:22.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree, what a great chance to make a starter for your delicious new batch of beer! If you don't want to do that, I understand putting the wyeast package back in the fridge is the safest storage for an already &quot;proofed&quot; pack of yeast. I don't believe there is all that much growth from smacking the activator pack. It's just a way for you to visually see that your yeast are viable or (proofed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T13:07:22.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7659" CreationDate="2012-09-11T13:12:18.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would agree that 1 degree/ day is unreasonable. Your wort in primary surely sees high temperature gradients just in it's self! 5 degree/ day sounds more reasonable like it's &quot;keeping it safe&quot;. But in this case I agree with everyone. Crash that Okt!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T13:12:18.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7666" CreationDate="2012-09-11T13:39:56.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put the yeast in a cool place and you'll be fine. Bring it up to pitching temperature before pitching and you'll be good to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you smack the pack it's just giving the yeast more nutrients, so they're not in any worse shape than before you smacked the pack. Keeping them cool will reduce any loss in yeast health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making a starter is a good way to go, but equally, if this is your first brew, you may want to keep things simple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T13:39:56.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7447" CreationDate="2012-09-11T15:09:58.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could make your own. A little googling will turn up several interesting DIY peristaltic pumps specifically designed for homebrewing. Here is a particularly interesting one that also has a pretty good discussion thread to go along with it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cake-pan-skateboard-wheel-bike-brakes-homemade-peristaltic-pump-279120/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cake-pan-skateboard-wheel-bike-brakes-homemade-peristaltic-pump-279120/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1506" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T15:09:58.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7654" CreationDate="2012-09-12T01:09:40.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of people I know recommend the D47 from Lalvin :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lalvinyeast.com/D47.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lalvinyeast.com/D47.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried once, and I was really impress. I also tried K1 V1116, but the result was less good. But I have to admit that I also change the recipe between those two experiments, so I can't tell that it was only because of the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2504" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T01:09:40.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2012-09-12T01:19:16.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little FWIW:  After 25+ yr.s of lager brewing (roughly 96% lager to ale ratio) my main lagering unit; circa 1946 died.  I decided to tip-toe back to ales as my mainstay.  I was excited about clean lager like beer without the decoctions and long fermentations.  First yeasts that met my fermentation environment were Calif. Common and Cry Havoc.  For approx. 8 barrels, I split the wort between these two for side by side analysis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was struck by the similarities and am convinced if not siblings, these yeast are no further removed than cousins.  I found both to extremely flexible, temperature wise and their behavior, appearance and final results so close, the average Joe can't taste the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have my notes in front of me but I recall:  Both take a really long time to completely ferment out.  Yeah, I could've cut it short and had fine beer; but: given lengthy time in primary (many weeks to months) really provides an ultra clean, clear beer.  Really close to lagering times!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course a lot depends on all the key elements to brewing; water, malt bill, mash and boil techniques, hopping; etc, ad nauseam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, it is temperature flexible, though most mine w/these strains started warm and ended on the cool end of the range.  If you are patient, I have let these go for many months on the warm end and had clean lager-ish characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, given your temperature constraints, why not make a clean ale with London Ale or some other old standby?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2543" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T01:19:16.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7623" CreationDate="2012-09-12T01:22:23.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use lactose, and I think it is one of the easiest solution. All natural sugar will be convert into alcool. And you will have sparkling cider by adding a little more sugar before bottling. Lactose will give a good taste (not like splenda). You can put 1kg of lactose for around 23L of cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem is that lactose is not cheap (around 10$ for 1kg) and is hard to find (even in homebrew shops).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2504" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T01:22:23.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7676" CreationDate="2012-09-12T01:28:29.417" Score="2" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, my floating thermometer broke while cooling off my wort and I didn't realize it until about an hour after I had pitched the yeast and fermentation had definitely already started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I freaked out and thought I might have leaked mercury into my wort and almost threw out the batch, but then I figured out that the thermometer was lead. Alcohol based thermometers apparently have little lead beads at the bottom so the thermometer will float. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wary to go back into the fermenting wort and scoop out the lead pellets during fermentation so I've been letting it ferment for 5 days now. Fermentation has been strong (and it's still going) and there are no signs of any ill-effect yet. If anything fermentation seems a little more vigorous than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I'm not very interested in poisoning myself with lead when I drink this. When I rack this batch to secondary I'll be able to remove the lead pellets, but will that be enough? Is the alcohol enough to kill off any bad bacterias? Any other precautions I should take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2679" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T14:01:33.670" Title="Lead in primary fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7675" CreationDate="2012-09-12T03:02:29.123" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know, but for the sake of peace of mind, I'd dump the batch if it was me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary concern should be the ingestion of a heavy metal, not bacteria. Wort/beer is acidic, and a quick internet search reveals that lead may partially dissolve in carbonated water and other acids, and that contact with food should be avoided. The answer probably depends on how much lead you've been exposed to previously, how much you expect to be exposed to in the future, and what value you put on your health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2012-09-12T04:16:04.147" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T04:16:04.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7699" CreationDate="2012-09-12T03:56:39.817" Score="2" ViewCount="1191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a chocolate stout a while back that's kind of astrigent. I'm not sure I would call it sour, but it makes you pucker a bit. It had 8 oz of Trader Joe's Tumaco cocoa powder added in primary, no secondary. I've read that alkalized or Dutch processed cocoa powder reduces the acidity and astrigency, so I think it was the cocoa powder that caused it. The base recipe was the partial mash oatmeal stout from Brewing Classic Styles. No lactose involved because I have lactose intolerant and allergic friends &amp;amp; family.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else had a similar experience? Do you think non-alkalized powder could be the culprit? Would that make Dutch processed better for adding to beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2012-09-13T18:42:35.217" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T16:39:55.627" Title="Could non-alkalized cocoa powder cause astringency in a chocolate stout?" Tags="|stout|chocolate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7656" CreationDate="2012-09-12T17:43:54.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be hard to see a thin ring of black mold in an amber bottle, even when holding it up against the light.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd strongly recommend you use a bottle washer on a faucet.  Really hot water doesn't kill everything but it does tend to clean well.  Here's one as an example:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/15964//Bottle_and_Carboy_Washer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://morebeer.com/view_product/15964//Bottle_and_Carboy_Washer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also recommend you get a bottle tree or two so you can clean bottles at your convenience and have them waiting and ready when you need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, here is my ritual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are the bottles of unknown cleanliness (eg from a a party, donated by a friend, etc)?&#xA;If yes, then they get a bottle washing using the device I linked above and go into a sink/basin/plastic tub with sani solution.  As someone else mentioned, PBW might be a better for this step as it would likely break up soil/dirt/mold better than star sani.  If you use PBW be aware that you need to rinse much much more thoroughly than with star sani.  The bottle washer works well for that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After the first round of cleaning or if they were &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; bottles that I know were rinsed clean after use, I use the bottle washer on the faucet on them again and then use this device to inject sani into them.  Here is an example device.  Mine is a little different but same idea:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/15682/102303/Sanitizer_Injector&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://morebeer.com/view_product/15682/102303/Sanitizer_Injector&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;If you don't have this device, you can just soak them in sani.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then they go onto the tree to drain the sani-water out of them and await use.  I'm sure you know what a bottle tree is but if not, here is an example.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/15677&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://morebeer.com/view_product/15677&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, if a 12 oz bottle is so dirty that the faucet cleaner and a soak doesn't get it looking good, I recycle it.  Bombers get the brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bottles are truly filthy (dumpster dumping etc), I would consider soaking them in a bathtub or garbage can in bleach for a few days before cleaning.  Be aware that bleach is very very bad for your beer so if you use this pre-step, you'll need to rinse really thoroughly.  My brother used to use this approach in college on dumpster bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://mikesbrewreview.com/how-to-clean-bottles-for-your-homebrew/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt; has some good info.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T17:43:54.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7615" CreationDate="2012-09-12T20:10:59.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any reduction in temperature will create a negative pressure (compared to what was before) in the fermentation vessel.  The air lock is designed to work in a one-way fashion, so the only real risk is contamination of your fermentation chamber with air-lock fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a vodka in the airlock instead of starsan.  In the extremely rare event that you generate enough low pressure to suck in some of the airlock fluid, you are adding a generally tasteless grain alcohol to you brew (instead of a cleaning solution).  In any event, the volumes are low enough that few people will ever be able to detect contamination should it ever occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vodka is already high enough in alcohol content that it will prevent crud from growing in the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2681" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T20:10:59.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6099" CreationDate="2012-09-12T20:53:55.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cheap disconnects, go with cam locks.  Tri-clamp is easier to clean, but a bit more expensive.  Garden hose disconnects are generally too low in quality to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only know about garden hose disconnect issues because, well, I water a garden daily.  If I can't keep my garden hose from leaking, I wouldn't want to recommend them for beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully cam locks are within your budget.  If not, I'd actually consider leaning more towards hose clamps than garden hose disconnects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2681" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T20:53:55.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7677" CreationDate="2012-09-12T23:50:15.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used this cocoa powder, but most cocoa powder that's not sweetened is fairly harsh, and needs a good sweetness backbone to push against. The astringency which can come from both acidic and alkali compounds could be also from the other grains in the grist as well as the chocolate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T23:50:15.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7683" CreationDate="2012-09-13T03:44:25.627" Score="3" ViewCount="6318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the common wisdom is you shouldn't do this, but I am brewing two mid-to-high gravity beers on Saturday (1.065 and 1.072), and only have one packet.  I am now chilling a 2L starter that I was going to stir plate, decant, and split between the two batches.  Is this going overboard, or should I have split the dry satchet into two batches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T01:27:09.737" Title="Yeast Starter with Dry Yeast (S-04)" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7682" CreationDate="2012-09-13T13:58:00.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A dry sachet contains about 200 billion cells when new, with a decrease of around 4% per month thereafer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a beer in the 1.070 range, recommended pitching rates are 1-1.5 million cells / ml / 4 SG or about 330-450 billion cells in 5 gallons. So pitching a single pack of 200 billion cells is going to be underpitching, and one pack split is very much underpitching - you're getting a maximum of 100 billion cells compared to the 330 billion minimum needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make a perfectly good starter with dry yeast, just as with liquid yeast. The only reason most people don't make a starter with dry yeast is that it's inexpensive enough to usually just buy an extra sachet. But in your case, if that's not an option there's no harm done in making a starter. In fact, I would recommend it, and would split the dry yeast into 2 2-liter starters to ensure you reach the cell counts required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T13:58:00.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7694" CreationDate="2012-09-13T14:33:14.980" Score="2" ViewCount="975" Body="&lt;p&gt;After Denny's article in the spring issue of Zymurgy, I'm anxious to experiment and split batches for experimentation with yeast pitching rates, strains, fermentation temps, and adjuncts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had previously done this by doing a high-gravity mash, spitting the wort into two batches, diluting to session levels pre-boil, then changing hop additions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good containers to use for 1 gallon mini-batches?  I have one one-gallon glass jug (likely from a nasty jug wine or something) that I used to use for starters.  I also have about 3 extra 5-gallon carboys that I picked up when I thought I would do a lot of bulk aging.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&#xA;1.)  Is extra headspace in a fermenter bad?  I could theoretically just use these 5-gallon carboys if not&#xA;2.)  What are some other suitable containers that people have had luck with in finding inexpensively and readily available small fermentation vessels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T15:35:54.263" Title="Fermenter Headspace; Suitable (and cheap!) Containers for Split Batches" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7684" CreationDate="2012-09-13T15:02:03.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the first question: It sounds like you're planning on doing a primary fermentation in the carboys. In that case, extra headspace is perfectly fine. Fermentation will produce CO2 to fill up that space and protect your beer from any oxygen coming in, and it will also leave some room for the krausen to take up. One gallon in a 5 gallon carboy might be a little excessive, but I think you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T15:02:03.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7684" CreationDate="2012-09-13T15:24:53.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the calculations on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winepress.us/forums/index.php?/topic/41156-how-much-co2-is-produced-during-fermentation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; are correct, fermenting a 5% ABV beer will generate about 20 volumes of CO2. So a 1 gallon batch would produce 20 gallons of CO2—plenty to purge the headspace of a 5 gallon carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T15:24:53.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6715" CreationDate="2012-09-13T16:25:45.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is only since the advent of homebrewing software that brewhouse efficiency has also meant 'to the fermenter'.  Before homebrewing got involved, brewhouse efficiency was only known as efficiency 'to the kettle'.  There were two flavors, outlined in the bruakaiser article link in mdma's answer, but both involve 'to the kettle'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in the BrauKaiser article, it explains how the BeerSmith people, to name one software package, decided to take it upon themselves to redefine brewhouse efficiency as 'to the fermenter'.  Contrary to the claim in mdma's answer that 'to the fermenter' is the most useful definition, Braukaiser also wrote about how useLESS the 'to the fermenter' defintion is, especially for sharing recipes.  Why mdma's answer linked the braukaiser article, then contradicts that same article, simply adds more confusion to an already confusing issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why fermenter based 'brewhouse efficiency' is useless is that, contrary mdma's statement that all losses stay the same from batch to batch, they do not.  As noted in Bryan's answer, different hop bills result in different kettle losses.  This requires adjusting fermenter based 'brewhouse efficiency' for every recipe if those losses are entered into the software.  An alternative is to increase the fermenter volume, and manually account for the losses included in it, but then what is the point of using software and 'to the fermenter efficiency'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using 'to the kettle' brewhouse efficiency would simply require increasing the target kettle volume (and ingredients to match the increase), to account for hop/trub losses specific to a recipe.  Nothing has changed except losing some final volume, so why should anything change except the post boil volume, so that the fermenter target volume is still correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2682" LastEditorUserId="2682" LastEditDate="2012-09-15T05:16:26.930" LastActivityDate="2012-09-15T05:16:26.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-13T19:05:32.723" Score="2" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've somehow managed to brew a bloody lovely bitter (for my first time) in a pressurised keg but now i've started drinking it, is there any kind of best before? Or do I literally need to drink 10 pints a day over the next 4 days? (not such a bad thing I guess)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2683" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T21:20:05.587" Title="How quickly do i need to drink my beer?" Tags="|keg|brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7688" CreationDate="2012-09-13T19:28:09.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or do I literally need to drink 10 pints a day over the next 4 days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nope! In general, beer will get better with age. Be leisurely, and as long as your sanitation was good, it will be even better in a month or six.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very generic rules for aging:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Higher alcohol == better aging. &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Aromatic hoppy styles == worse aging&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for example, you could age a barleywine or imperial russian stout for years because of the alcohol content. But, you wouldn't want to age something like an IPA too long because the hop aromas that make the style will degrade with age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T19:28:09.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7693" CreationDate="2012-09-13T20:37:34.270" Score="1" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the run down: I have a 6 gallon batch of pinot grigio that I have fermenting and a 6 gallon batch of summer saison that is also nearing completion.  I am looking to upgrade my bottling process for beer and I also need to buy a corker for my wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any thoughts on what corker/capper to buy? Is going with a dual purpose topper a good idea? Any input would be GREATLY appreciated, much of the amazon toppers don't have many reviews, aside from the handheld cappers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2620" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-09-14T03:11:23.237" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T03:11:23.237" Title="Bottling/Corking" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7688" CreationDate="2012-09-13T21:20:05.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you keep the beer under CO2 and purged the oxygen from the keg, it will keep quite a while.  Several months at the very least, and it could be years.   However, if you serve it &quot;real ale&quot; style without CO2 you are limited to a few days in peak condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T21:20:05.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7682" CreationDate="2012-09-14T01:27:09.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets put aside the dry yeast starter issues for now...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't think one packet into only 2L of starter wort will be enough yeast for 2 five gallon batches.  You probably didn't get much growth (if any) from a dry packet in only 2L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The better plan is to pitch the starter into one beer.  Then brew the next beer in two weeks time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T01:27:09.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7690" CreationDate="2012-09-14T01:41:12.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I just order this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/portuguese-floor-corker.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;floor corker&lt;/a&gt; from Northern Brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'll be corking up some Australian Shiraz.  I plan to use it for some high gravity Belgians I brew up occasionally too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T01:41:12.103" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7684" CreationDate="2012-09-14T05:03:42.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My concern with 1 gallon in a 5 gallon carboy is isn't chances of oxidization, since the CO2 produced will displace the air, but the microbial load from all that additional air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After using a good sanitizer like Starsan or Iodophor the fermentor is close to microbe free and the largest source of contaminants is then the air itself in the fermentor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 5 times less yeast, and many times more headspace than normal, you may want to be sure to hit recommended pitching rates, ideally by pitching from an actively fermenting starter, or rehydrated dried yeast to reduce lag times and ensure the yeast come out on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T05:03:42.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1914" CreationDate="2012-09-14T08:10:11.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are asking just for general knowledge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RE: Mash/Lauter drains-&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Virtually all pro lauter (or mash/lauter) tuns have many collections points, all drawing from the bottom of the tun and below the false bottom.  This is to ensure an even flow through the entire bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RE: Mash tun heating-&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are all styles: unheated, direct fire (least common, I would guess), and steam jacketed (the most common heated type).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are asking in regards to how to design a homebrew mash or mash/lauter tun:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A false bottom with a decent manifold, or just a manifold or a false bottom, satisfies most homebrewers. A lauter, or mash/lauter, tun with bottom drains could work better, and would definitely impress people, but it might be more difficult to handle with all the drain connectors on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heating the mash tun requires either stirring, or recirculation.  The most popular solution is the recirculating style: HERMS or RIMS.  HERMS uses hot water for the heating, so the max temp the wort is subjected to can be more easily controlled.  RIMS uses a hot water heater element that the wort flows over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direct firing and stirring is also perfectly acceptable, but can be tricky to hit temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2682" LastEditorUserId="2682" LastEditDate="2012-09-16T01:48:26.683" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T01:48:26.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2012-09-14T14:03:05.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dig a hole in your back yard! Seriously a small bunker type hole just big enough to fit your brew is fairly cheap to build. Build a well insulated roof for it, make sure it's sealed to keep out pests. Underground temperatures are much cooler than above ground in warm areas, and much warmer than above ground in cooler areas. The temperature stays fairly consistent. I recommend digging about 6 feet in your back yard and drop a thermometer in there and throw some insulation on top and see what the temp is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is underwater brewing in a pool (if you have one) but this is much more complicated and kids complain when they can't swim cause dad is brewing again. lol Here's a video of an undersea brewery! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://vimeo.com/30311858#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sunk Punk on Vimeo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-09T15:00:20.473" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T15:00:20.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7704" CreationDate="2012-09-14T15:43:56.793" Score="2" ViewCount="877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have room for 2 5-gallon fermenters (ale pails) in my fermentation chest, and would like to conduct two fermentations at once.  Typically, I insulate my temp controller's probe against a fermenter, so it is regulating fermenter temp and not ambient.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want to regulate temp on two separate fermenters, I would think that the best way to do this with my chest freezer/temp control set up is to suspend the probe inside the fermenter so it regulates the ambient temperature and have it set 5-6 degrees below my desired fermentation temp (in this case 65 degrees, so I would have the controller set to 60 degrees).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T07:01:33.983" Title="How to control temp between two fermenters in the same chamber" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2012-09-14T16:34:17.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cool-brewing.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cool Brewing fermentation cooler&lt;/a&gt; ($55). It works surprising well as long as you change the ice packs (or whatever you use to cool it) every 12-24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T16:34:17.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7677" CreationDate="2012-09-14T16:39:55.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brewing buddy and I brew a chocolate oatmeal stout around this time each year.  I add in a whole container of cocoa powder and I have never had any issues with astringency.  I have tried both natural pressed cocoa and Dutch processed cocoa and haven't noticed a big effect on astringency. I typically add it to the boil, not sure if that may be the reason why you are having issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of possibilities here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cocoa had some wild yeast which added some funk to the brewing process, which is actually very likely considering that cocoa beans must be &lt;a href=&quot;http://microbewiki.kenyon.edu/index.php/Chocolate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fermented&lt;/a&gt; in order to be processed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution:  Add the cocoa powder to the boil, which would kill any yeast in the cocoa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you did all grain you may have over sparged which leads to more tannins in the beer which would definitely lead to a lot more astringency.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution:  Don't sparge with as much water or with as hot of water. Watch closely the color of the sparged liquid going into the brew pot. You could use either the iodophor test or get a refractometer if you want to be really sure of when to stop spargin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T16:39:55.627" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-14T22:04:57.863" Score="1" ViewCount="1206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an extract brewing beginner.  My first batch, an Irish Red, had decent head, decent retention, decent mouthfeel.  I bottled after 2 weeks in fermentation, and bottle conditioned for the following 2 weeks.  The beer was not bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem batch:&lt;/strong&gt;  I picked up the stuff for a Manny's Pale Ale clone.  Brewing process was good.  I got a chance to use my brand new wort chiller (cleaned and sanitized properly before hand obviously)  I kept it in the primary fermenter for 3 weeks until the gravity readings were the same each day for 3 days.  I then bottled and have let it bottle condition for 2 weeks.  Cracked one open.  AWFUL.  No head at all.  The carbonation looked like a half flat cola left out overnight.  It is damn near a hard cider that gives off the worst bitter beer taste ive encountered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 bad things happened during the overall process, and Im curious if these could have contributed to the problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.)&lt;/strong&gt; Almost had a blow off during primary.  Replaced part of the 3 piece airlock with a sanitized tube, running into a growler full of sanitize solution (blow off tube).  At one point about 2 weeks in when bubbling was slowing down, I noticed the other end of the tube had somehow come out of the sanitizer all together, and was open to the air.  Id estimate it was open for at least 6 hours while I was at work. (fiance forgot to check before she left for work)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.)&lt;/strong&gt; When transfering to the bottling bucket, my priming sugar (3/4 cup, 1 cup water, boiled allowed to cool) was ...um...forgotten about.  I started to syphon, and at about 4 gallons transfered I realized I had not put the solution into the bottom of the bucket.  I poured it in on top....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that this is going to be a drain pour more than likely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to save it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SG&lt;/strong&gt;: 1.054&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FG&lt;/strong&gt;: 1.014&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 gallon batch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2534" LastEditorDisplayName="user2534" LastEditDate="2012-09-14T22:14:32.047" LastActivityDate="2012-09-15T10:27:19.927" Title="Priming Sugar problem" Tags="|bottling|priming|blow-off|pale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7700" CreationDate="2012-09-14T23:46:33.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two weeks may not be sufficient time for the bottles to condition. I've had batches that took 4-6 weeks and longer. Conditioning time depends on how active the yeast are. Put the bottles in a warm, dark place and let the yeast do their work. Open one occasionally to see how they're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if it doesn't taste any good then it's probably not worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of the issues you mentioned should have caused a problem like you describe with the bitterness of the beer. If you link to your recipe, that might provide additional clues. Other factors to consider are the freshness of ingredients and your brewing process. Since you know what Manny's is then I assume you're in the Seattle area and your local water is pretty good for brewing, but if you made any adjustments to the water chemistry that could be to blame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T23:46:33.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7700" CreationDate="2012-09-15T01:00:43.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try bottles from a different case or a different part of the case.  You definitely have bottles that have priming sugar in them. I might worry that those will over carbonate. It seems like you just didn't get a good mix of the sugar into the beer.  (Which I think you already know.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd be surprised what carbonation does for balancing the flavor profile of a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I think you need to re-check your flavor profile.  Hard cider doesn't really have a bitterness component to it.  Its tough to diagnose flavor issues online through descriptions.  Its impossible when those descriptors are used incorrectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-09-15T10:27:19.927" LastActivityDate="2012-09-15T10:27:19.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7697" CreationDate="2012-09-16T11:38:46.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had fine luck by simply wedging the probe between the two carboys.  Then I tape some insulation (rags) against it across the two carboys and over the probe body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its not perfect but it does seem to work pretty well.  Unfortunately there is no really good way to do it once you go to two in there at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T11:38:46.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-16T11:49:43.110" Score="4" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always put my dry yeast directly into the wort, even though the packaging says to rehydrate it first.  I've never had (noticed?) any problems with fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could this habit cause to go wrong with the yeast, that rehydrating would prevent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1913" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T16:16:33.070" Title="What are the possible consequences of putting dry yeast straight into the wort?" Tags="|yeast|ingredients|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7705" CreationDate="2012-09-16T13:57:40.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The theory is that the more 'roughly' you treat the yeast, the fewer viable cells will make it through to ferment your wort/must. I almost always rehydrate and I follow the rule of never stirring/disturbing the yeast during this process. I sprinkle it on the top of the starter and let it sit for a few hours for it to naturally hydrate and disperse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you are pitching adequate yeast, however, it shouldn't make too much difference whether you rehydrate or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T13:57:40.877" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7705" CreationDate="2012-09-16T15:30:39.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should rehydrate before pitching, especially in high gravity worts. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Pitching the yeast directly results in fewer viable yeast cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T15:30:39.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7705" CreationDate="2012-09-16T19:02:09.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically allowing the yeast to rehydrate in wort creates stress on the yeast and roughly half of what you pitch doesn't survive the process.  Reason being is that normally the yeast cell regulates what crosses the cell membrane.  While rehydrating the cells do not have that control and they end up with too much sugar and nutrients passing into the cells while they rehydrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to say that you can't sprinkle two packets into your wort to compensate for the viability issues.  I've done it this way several times when I am being really lazy.  But to be honest I've always found that the fermentation profile is better when I've pitched liquid yeast from a starter or from slurry.  I like to use dry yeast to make a simple house beer or session beer.  Then use the slurry from that to make really great beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T19:02:09.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7705" CreationDate="2012-09-16T19:04:04.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brew Your Own did a study on this.  Done side by side, most tasters couldn't tell the difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T19:04:04.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7697" CreationDate="2012-09-16T22:41:46.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would tape the probe to whichever fermentation started most recently. Temperature control is most important in the first couple days of fermentation, when the yeast are growing. After that, it's not super important, as long as you're in the right ballpark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also get a couple of thermometers and try to figure out whether one side of your chamber is colder than the other, which might help keep two different batches at slightly different temps, if desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="1736" LastEditDate="2012-09-17T01:15:57.830" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T01:15:57.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7697" CreationDate="2012-09-17T07:01:33.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Controlling 2 fermentations at once will require at least 2 controllers, and 2 temp inputs (as in heating and refrig).  If you can't guarantee which fermentation will be the most active, you will need 3 controllers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping things simple and assuming you only need to cool things down, a common solution for staggered ferms is to use a controller and fermwrap (DIY versions are cheap) for the less active ferm, and another controller, with the sensor on the active vessel, to control the refrigeration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need heating and/or cooling, you would need at least a 2 stage controller (STC-1000, or Love), and a heat source, for the chamber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2682" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T07:01:33.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7705" CreationDate="2012-09-17T10:42:06.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other vital point not mentioned is rehydration temperature. While each strain and manufacturer has different guidelines, they are all in a range of 80-105F, 25-40C, with most being at the top end of that range - much hotter than typical wort temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rehydrating at room temperature can cause a loss of 60% viability compared to rehydrating at warmer temperatures. &lt;a href=&quot;http://koehlerbeer.com/2008/06/07/rehydrating-dry-yeast-with-dr-clayton-cone/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why rehydrate?&lt;/a&gt;, An interview with Dr Clayton Cone, discusses how the temperature of the water affects viability and explains why rehydrating in wort (at any temperature) causes cells to die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For examples of rehydration procedures, see&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scottlab.com/uploads/documents/downloads/59/YeastRehydration_Lallemand.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lallemand Rehydration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewwithfermentis.com/tips-tricks/yeast-rehydration/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fermentis Rehydration recommendations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you can get away without rehydrating yeast, you'll be vastly underpitching. You'll still get beer at the end, but it won't be as good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why the beer won't be as good - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/com-pitch-rates.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wyeast&lt;/a&gt; says this on underpitching:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Effect of Pitch Rate on Beer Flavor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pitch rates, in addition to strain, temperature, and gravity, make a dramatic&#xA;difference in the final flavor and aroma profile of any beer.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The pitch rate will have a direct effect on the amount of cell growth during a fermentation.&#xA;Cell growth decreases as pitch rates increase. Ester production is&#xA;directly related to yeast growth as are most other flavor and aroma&#xA;compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A low pitch rate can lead to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Excess levels of diacetyl&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase in higher/fusel alcohol formation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase in ester formation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase in volatile sulfur compounds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;High terminal gravities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stuck fermentations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increased risk of infection&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, underpitching stresses the yeast, since they spend a good deal longer propagating, in high gear, rather than fermenting. The increased propagation levels causes the off flavors mentioned above, and as there is initially less yeast, there is more chance of other microbial contaminants getting a foothold. High propagation levels leave lots of scar tissue from budding on the older generations, which reduces the rate of transfer in and out of the cell, making it harder for the cell to consume nutrients and expel waste products, reducing the effectiveness of the cell, contributing to high finishing gravities and stuck fermentations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the fermemntor, you want your yeast to spend their energy making alcohol, not babies!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T16:16:33.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-19T01:10:41.937" Score="9" ViewCount="22105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made tons of ginger beer (often just like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://ieatfood.net/2009/12/18/real-ginger-ale/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://ieatfood.net/2009/12/18/real-ginger-ale/&lt;/a&gt; ), I've tried various different recipes, and they all come out quite nicely. But I want a ginger beer that's SHARP. Everything I make has a nice ground gingery mouth feel, where as ginger beer I buy (like Fentimans, Bundaberg) tends to be a lot sharper for a better &quot;Dark and Stormy&quot; taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not lemon.&#xA;It's not pineapple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I make it &lt;strong&gt;sharp&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2698" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T12:50:24.403" LastActivityDate="2020-01-19T17:38:14.017" Title="How do I make my ginger beer SPICY?" Tags="|beer|ale|ginger-beer|ginger|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-19T02:26:34.430" Score="4" ViewCount="1045" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently moved from extract-only to extract + steeping grains.  I'm making a recipe now and wondering if there is a max limit for steeping grains as part of the total grain bill?  For a double witbier, right now I have this profile for my total fermentables (steeping = 30%, non-malt sugar = 30%, malt extract = 40%):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2lb CaraPils (20%)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1lb 2Row (10%)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4lb Extra light DME (40%)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1lb Candi Sugar (10%)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2lb Honey (20%)&#xA;Does anyone have any insight on this?  Is 30% too much to rely on steeping?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2672" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T11:13:05.917" Title="What is the largest percentage of grain bill for steeping?" Tags="|recipe|steeping|extract-plus-grains|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-19T07:33:30.043" Score="0" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4352/how-many-times-can-yeast-be-reused&quot;&gt;How many times can yeast be reused?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read in a couple of places that you should only reuse yeast a couple of times - most say up to 5 times because you would get an infection eventually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now wonder if there is any indication for when to throw away the old yeast and get a new vial. I am obviously trying not to reuse until I get a batch that I need to throw away...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible to detect this kind defect already in the starter maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T07:33:30.043" Title="Reusing vs using new yeast" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-09-19T13:05:12.127" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2012-09-19T08:12:43.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Up front sharpness comes from acidity and to some degree, the level of carbonation. Most soft drinks have citric acid, and some phosphoric acid to create a sharpness to balance the sugar, and have a high level of carbonation (&gt;3 vols CO2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting that sharpness is a balance thing - if you have too much sugar compared to the acid the drink will not be sharp, but of course too much acid and it will not be pleasant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try using pickled ginger pieces, rather than fresh or ground ginger, along with the pickling juice that'll give a great spicy aroma and some spicy warmth when you drink. I used about 250g of pickled ginger in my last 5 gallon batch and it was almost firey! I carbonated in a keg, to 3.5 volumes CO2 - the high carbonation also creates a pleasant sharpness to the drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T08:12:43.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7714" CreationDate="2012-09-19T10:18:38.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no upper limit in terms of how much speciality malt you can actually use and still extract sugar - the limit is more to do with taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my mind, in an extract brew, 20% is the maximum amount of caramel/crystal malt that I would use in a recipe, simply because of the amount of residual sweetness left, which is on top of the sweetness left by the malt extract that typically leaves behind 20%-40% unfermentables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20% carapils is on the high side - 5-10% is more typical, although if you want a fuller mouthfeel, as is desirable in a wit, then 20% is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other points about the recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 2 row makes this a mini-mash rather than a steep. The difference is that you are converting starches into sugars, rather than simply leeching out the sugars with a steep. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's no need to steep the honey - you can just put it into the boil. It's almost entirely fermentable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-09-19T11:13:05.917" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T11:13:05.917" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7727" CreationDate="2012-09-19T20:11:24.393" Score="6" ViewCount="1706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two fermenters going with about a cup of slurry of S-04.  Pitched Sunday morning at 61 degrees ambient, they were showing activity within 5 hours, vigorous activity within 12 hours.  Went to harvest yeast yesterday, and the krausen had already dropped!  I increase the chamber temp controller to 64 degrees, and decided to take a hydrometer sample, and it was about 1.029, down from 1.062.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know airlock activity doesn't necessarily mean fermentation activity, patience is key, etc., however for the benefit of others, is there a rule of thumb for percentage of fermentation that occurs after the krausen has subsided?  Could it be that this just premanturely flocculated on me?  I have heard that S-04 can do this at lower temps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T14:53:49.673" Title="How much does gravity typically drop after high krausen" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7656" CreationDate="2012-09-19T23:02:33.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a large plastic tub in the bathtub and fill it with hot tap water mixed with the oxygen cleaner from the dollar tree (yes, it has fragrance, but it's cheap and rinses clean).  Splurge and use $0.50 worth! Into that, I immerse bottles, and let them sit over night.  The next day, I use a home-made bottle rinser to quadruple rinse (spray the interior, let drain, and repeat).  The bottle rinser is a chunk of cpvc with tiny holes drilled in it.  The rinse water is as hot as I can get.  Usually I start with rinsed bottles, but even some trashy one come clean with the soak and rinse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't even START talking about sanitzer if I could see the tiniest spec of anything!  Only after my soak and rinse, then I hit them with sanitizer.  They all go back in the case, I lay clean paper towels on the top, close the case, flip the case over, and store until needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T23:02:33.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5492" CreationDate="2012-09-20T01:46:32.910" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently done the experiment. Zero boil hops, but dry-hopped with 6 ounces of high alpha acid hops (Summit, Simcoe and Apollo). This brew is quite bitter, whatever the reason, and it is of the same &quot;kind&quot; of bitterness one would expect from hopping in the boil and not particularly astringent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2701" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T01:46:32.910" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2012-09-20T09:36:04.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had success using 3-5 lbs of fresh ginger in a 5 gallon batch of ginger soda.  I find it's important to very finely cut the ginger (I use a strong blender/food processor).  Once I've simmered the ginger for about 15-30 minutes, I strain the pulp into a grain sock and squeeze as much liquid as possible from it.  I use my hands to do the pressing (warning: wear gloves), so it's probably not the most sanitary or efficient method, but it gives my soda that Reed's ginger ale burn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there's a better way...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2703" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T09:36:04.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7726" CreationDate="2012-09-20T20:04:34.390" Score="3" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently entered my first mead into a BJCP-judged competition (mostly to get feedback), and all three judges reported a vegetal off-flavor in the mead. What could be the cause of this? The mead was made with raw orange blossom honey with no additives other than yeast booster and nutrients. It was aged for a year in carboys, with occasional (every other month or so) racking for clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T10:18:18.767" Title="What are possible causes of a vegetal flavor in mead?" Tags="|mead|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7591" CreationDate="2012-09-21T08:33:22.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I went and tried it.  Maybe I didn't let the soursop get ripe enough or it didn't get the yeasts, or whatever but after a week and a half in the fridge and no evidence of fermentation I gave up on the wild aspect and cultured it with a few tablespoons of the local fermented rice dish, tape hitam (basically red yeast rice mash).  This started the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially I suspected that the original yeast in the first accidental batch (it had a very different, and more yeasty, flavor) must have come from contamination in the container but I dont think that is the case.  Instead now, I think I just didn't get ripe enough soursop and will have to try that stage again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have now eaten a third or so of the initial batch.  It's good and moderately alcoholic.  It is a bit of an acquired taste though (not to worry, the local tape hitam and tape putih --- fermented cassava root --- is also!) but so far I am actually enjoying it a bit.  I replaced the soursop I ate with mashed mango, so we will see how different mixed fruits interact with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all relatively successful outside the fact that I was unable to get results with the wild yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T08:33:22.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7724" CreationDate="2012-09-21T10:18:18.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be from bacterial contamination, old yeast, or from stale ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BJCP page, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/meadfaults.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mead Faults&lt;/a&gt;, lists some typical causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vegetal Smell or taste of plants or green vegetables. Cooked, canned or rotten vegetable (cabbage, celery, onion, asparagus, parsnip) aroma and flavor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Encourage a fast, vigorous fermentation (use a healthy, active starter to reduce lag time; this is often due to bacterial contamination of must before yeast becomes established). Check sanitation. Check for aged, stale, or old ingredients.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are already using a starter, then check sanitation procedures for equipment and also how you sanitize the must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T10:18:18.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7719" CreationDate="2012-09-21T11:04:53.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how much you can read from a fallen krausen - some yeast strains don't fall at all, while others fall early. When this occurs and how far fermentation has progressed will vary from strain to strain, and maybe even brew to brew due to different wort composition, proteins, oils etc.  When the krausen falls, it doesn't always mean that fermentation has stopped, but simply slowed down to a rate that cannot maintain the krausen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The krausen is the result of vigorous yeast activity, pushing up coagulated proteins, yeast, hop oils and trub. In some brews, the krausen can more or less be permanent. Otherwise, it is maintained by the upward churning of the wort by the yeast - temperature gradients create the churning since wort that is warmed from active fermentation will naturally rise. When it reaches the top, it cools slightly in the headspace and falls down again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-09-21T14:53:49.673" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T14:53:49.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7729" CreationDate="2012-09-21T12:24:03.663" Score="1" ViewCount="4430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a saison from a recipe (extract+grains) that calls for Carabelge, which my LHBS doesn't stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bill is 50/50 wheat &amp;amp; light extract (2kg each) plus 500g of Vienna and Carabelge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I substitute? I've got some Munich I here but it seems a bit of a stretch. My LHBS stocks mainly Weyermann and some Bairds products as well as a big range of local (Australian) malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T13:55:10.377" Title="What can I substitute for Carabelge?" Tags="|recipe|malt|extract-plus-grains|substitution|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7728" CreationDate="2012-09-21T13:49:55.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not brewed with it, but from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weyermann.de/eng/produkte.asp?idkat=204&amp;amp;umenue=yes&amp;amp;idmenue=37&amp;amp;sprache=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Weyermann specs&lt;/a&gt;, it's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;13L (11.8-13.7L)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mild, restrained notes of caramel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;honey-colored hue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use up to 30% in Belgian Blonde, Amber, Tripel, Dubbel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that it's 500g and it's playing against Vienna, the color is probably less significant than the flavor. To get the restrained caramel, you could probably get away with a very light crystal malt, such as &lt;strong&gt;CaraPils&lt;/strong&gt; or Briess &lt;strong&gt;Crystal 10&lt;/strong&gt; to get a restrained caramel note and flavour. You could also look into doing a mix of 70% Crystal 10 and 30% Crystal 20 to get and a touch more caramel and closer the 13 L color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew.is/files/malt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;substitution chart&lt;/a&gt; shows comparable malts from different malters. It lists these malts as substitutes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Crystal 10     Caramalt    Carapils    CaraMalt    CaraHell / (CaraBelge)  Light Carastan  Light Caramel   Carapils    Caramel Pilsen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Some malters produce malts with the same name, hence the duplicates.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-09-21T13:55:10.377" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T13:55:10.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7731" CreationDate="2012-09-23T02:30:47.647" Score="1" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm giving my first starter a go: a 2.4L starter for a 21L batch overall.  Since this looks like it will account for over 11% of the total volume, should I recalc for a 23L / 19L batch?  Or should I keep the recipe for a 21L batch but only add total 19L before the starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gravity will likely be quite different.  I haven't measured the starter but assume it'll be around 1.040.  The starter is made from straight LDME &amp;amp; the beer is a Saison, targeting about 1.071 OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other &quot;tricks&quot; for using a large starter in a relatively small batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T10:30:56.500" Title="Should the starter volume be included in the overall batch size?" Tags="|yeast-starters|recipe-formulation|pitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7730" CreationDate="2012-09-23T10:30:56.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a starter that large, it's best to pour off the starter wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, you can either leave it for a few days for the yeast to settle out, or put the starter in the fridge a few hours before it's needed. Either way, once the yeast have settled, you can pour off the starter wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then put the yeast somewhere that's close to pitching temperature. If you want to pitch actively fermenting yeast, you can add a half a liter of wort to the starter to get the yeast active again - this will give a shorter lag time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T10:30:56.500" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7870" CreationDate="2012-09-23T20:04:56.453" Score="2" ViewCount="4662" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some my wine/meads have been a bit bubbly after bottling.  I'm thinking the problem is I have not be degassing.  If I use a drill whip, how do I ensure I will not bruise or aerate the brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T01:44:54.263" Title="When using a drill whip to degas, how do I ensure I will not aerate the wine/mead?" Tags="|wine|mead|degassing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="747" CreationDate="2012-09-23T20:11:07.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can make mead without campden tablets.  I only use them for stabilizing the mead at the end.  1 campden tablet per gallon to ensure fermentation does not kick back up.  I have never added them to the beginning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people will pasteurize/boil their meads, claiming that pasteurization will kill all impurities.  That is an old school mentality, as pasturing and boiling strips the honey of many of it's flavors and aromas.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you keg your meads or consume them quickly, then you don't need to worry about stabilization.  Although, I personally will add some stabilizer in at the end, you can never be too careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T20:11:07.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7732" CreationDate="2012-09-23T21:43:24.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be agitating the wine or mead without sloshing it. The agitation happens under the surface, which causes the co2 to be released. There should be little or no motion on the surface, and certainly no splashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This next point is a bit controversial - for mead, don't worry about oxidization - the oxidization of honey is apparently actually flavorful, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/07/26/moonlight-meadery-with-michael-fairbrother-beersmith-podcast-43/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Moonlight Meadery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-09-23T22:32:43.457" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T22:32:43.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7732" CreationDate="2012-09-23T23:47:03.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oxidation in wine you get from vigorous degassing is minimal compared to beer, and those flavors are actually beneficial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cardboard or paper flavors that brewers fear from post fermentation oxidation are a result melanoidin based molecules.  Melanoidins are very low in wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They sell those wine whips that attach to a drill for a reason.  Whip away and get that gas out.  The out serious out gassing will also counter act some of the O2 pick up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make wine as well as beer, and whipping it into a frothy mess is not a problem for the wine.   In fact, you need to get the gas out to help ensure clarity steps further down the road.  We also add sulfite base stabilizers to wine which helps with oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend strongly that you use your wine whip with you fermentor either in a larger sink or place in on a couple old towels.  The wine will foam over if you are in a 6 gallon carboy with 5 gallons of wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T23:47:03.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7738" CreationDate="2012-09-24T13:39:55.210" Score="2" ViewCount="4274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a tiny bit of backflow when I put the gasline back on the keg after force carbonation. It just flowed a tiny bit into the connector - nothing got inside the line itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6512/backflow-into-gas-line&quot;&gt;Backflow into gas line&lt;/a&gt;, but it just tells me about the regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the prefered way of cleaning the line? The connector is giving me trouble, since I want to use my Beerline cleaner, but the connector is closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any good Idea on how to clean the connector (Ball-lock)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T23:30:54.713" Title="How to clean the CO2 line?" Tags="|kegging|cleaning|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-24T13:50:26.957" Score="1" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pitched about a cup of decanted starter S-04 slurry into a 1.061 OG American IPA 8 days ago at 65 degrees.  The gravity has been stuck at about 1.028 since pitch day + 48 hours, when the krausen dropped &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7719/how-much-does-gravity-typically-drop-after-high-krausen&quot;&gt;see my other question here&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard a few things since then, such as S-04 isn't meant to have a starter (even though I was trying to split one satchet between two 5 gallon batches), according to &quot;Yeast&quot; by White/Zainasheff, you can try to pitch champagne yeast to drop it further, and from some, that the beer is just 'done'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other time I bottled a beer with this high of a finishing gravity I got bottle bombs.  I obviously don't want that, and would like to be able to drink this IPA, as other than this bunk yeast, it is a pretty good beer (80% MO, 10% munich, 10% vienna) with some great hop additions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my hydrometer is about 2-3 points off, but I calibrated for this in my #'s above.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it happens, I have another s-04 cake available, as this beers twin finished at about 1.017 (similar original gravity)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions-&#xA;-can a beer finish this high and not have enough residual sugar to blow if bottled?&#xA;-should I pitch champagne yeast, rack to the other yeast cake, bottle as-is, keg (to hopefully avoid bottle bombs...I have a few serving issues doing it this way though), or let it sit another week?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T16:00:39.483" Title="High 'finished' gravity" Tags="|fermentation|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7736" CreationDate="2012-09-24T15:32:34.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;--- edit update ---&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, I misspoke, I never use starsan (nothing against it) it is b-brite that I use as a soap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--- original post follows ---&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next time you are cleaning, disconnect the line, and attach to to your auto siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the siphon to push a bucket of soapy water through the line.  Then push some clean water through the line, then (because I'm paranoid) push an iodine solution through the line.  To dry, attach it to your CO2 and let the tank pressure push most of the water out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you time the cleaning of your line with other cleaning efforts, you don't even need to mix solutions.  Often I'll use the same soap (starsan for me) to do my keg, carboy, and lines at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is that most lines are very inexpensive.  About 1/3 of the time, if my lines look nasty, I just undo the clamps and replace it.  Use properly sized automotive clamps, so a quick couple of turns with a screwdriver will have things apart before you know it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2681" LastEditorUserId="2681" LastEditDate="2012-09-25T05:08:13.273" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T05:08:13.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5245" CreationDate="2012-09-24T15:55:04.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seriously depends on what has infected your beer; but, we have a digestive system that has allowed us to eat &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; less sanitary food than we currently enjoy.  Even if you threw a cup of dirt into your beer, you'd probably survive it.  Most brewing infections lack a good &quot;starter culture&quot; of truly pathogenic substances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, life is to short to drink unpleasant things in the name of fun.  Since someone mentioned this is your second question about sanitation.  You need to focus on the slighly-less-fun side of brewing, washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B-brite on everything with scrubbing until it appears clean.  Replace items that have unnecessary seams that can catch food / liquid with ones that don't (that means the cheap-looking &quot;one piece&quot; spoons are actually better, etc).  Rinse with iodaphor solution, not water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you could get sick from some bad brew, but typically you'll stop drinking bad tasting stuff before you overload your body's defenses, and you probably won't encounter most waterborne ailments (in concentrations that will hurt you) unless you are starting with a very unsanitary water supply (cholera, etc).  Even then, the alcohol will do it's best to kill of the pathogens, and it usually works pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2681" LastEditorUserId="2681" LastEditDate="2012-09-25T05:09:34.863" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T05:09:34.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7737" CreationDate="2012-09-24T15:55:56.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it certainly can finish that high depending on your recipe and technique.  I have a bourbon vanilla imperial porter recipe that finishes in the 1.026-28 range.  But it certainly won't hurt your beer to let it sit another week or so and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T15:55:56.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7737" CreationDate="2012-09-24T16:00:39.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If by twin, you mean the same wort batch so it has the same fermentability, I'd let it sit a while longer. I'd also consider bumping the temperature up a few degrees and give the carboy a swirl to try to rouse the yeast to get them to finish the job. I just had the same thing happen to me on a cider I'm trying and that got them going again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T16:00:39.483" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7743" CreationDate="2012-09-24T19:31:24.240" Score="4" ViewCount="687" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is something interesting I noticed over the weekend. One of my beers has that distinct green apple smell to it. (I had to keg it early because I needed the fermentor. LHBS accidentally sold me a ported better bottle...) While I was using google to figure out how to spell &quot;acetaldehyde&quot; again, I noticed that it's boiling point is listed as being barely above 68F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to do a warm rest above 68 F after fermentation to effectively drive off acetaldehyde?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2012-09-24T20:29:10.177" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T22:07:25.480" Title="Can I &quot;boil&quot; off acetaldehyde?" Tags="|off-flavor|acetaldehyde|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7742" CreationDate="2012-09-24T22:07:25.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never tried heating beer, although given that commercial beer is pasteurized at around 165F/74C - far above your 20.2C/68F it may work. I'm not a chemist, but my understanding is that the 68F boiling point is for the pure substance - once dissolved in water the boiling point will change, the same as when salt is added to water changes the freezing and boiling point. If you're unsure, simply try it on a glass of beer. Put it in a warm water bath for a day and see how the flavor is. Then cool and sample next to a control glass from the keg at the same temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your position, I would simply leave it for a few months. The yeast will break down the acetaldehyde given time. It may take a long time - my first pilsener had the same problem - I just left it for nine months, through a long norwegian winter where the garage was around -1C and the beer came out fantastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to speed it up, you could pitch a sachet of neutral flocculating yeast, like US-05 (this will also work for lager if you bring the temperature up to 60F.) The fresh yeast will absorb the acetaldehyde.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T22:07:25.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-25T12:55:42.243" Score="3" ViewCount="1505" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 servomyces capsule is the correct dose for 5 galons of wort. If I want to add servomyces to my 1.5 litre yeast starter should i break open the capsule and use only part of it? or is it safe to add the whole capsule? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any risk of osmotic pressure on the yeast if using the whole capsule in the starter? Can you suggest a better product or method for adding nutrient to a starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T09:02:38.627" Title="Use of servomyces in a yeast starter" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|starter|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7744" CreationDate="2012-09-25T13:46:37.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Servomyces is simply dead yeast. Prior to being killed, it was fed micronutrients which have been stored in the yeast. There's no harm pitching more into your starter, assuming you then later pitch to 5 gallons or more. If your starter yeast don't use all the nutrients, your main brew certainly will, so there's no harm pitching the entire capsule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The White Labs FAQ says this about Servomyces&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Servo is yeast and is propagated in a micronutrient rich environment&#xA;  then, and is killed off prior to packaging. Boiling incorporates the&#xA;  Servo into the wort. The benefit of Servo is that micronutrients, e.g.&#xA;  zinc, are able to pass through its cell walls to your live yeast cell,&#xA;  thereby delivering the micronutrients without toxicity. Because this&#xA;  system is so effective in eliminating autolysis and improving the&#xA;  health of your yeast, it should be used in every batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to alternatives, I use Wyeast's nutrient blend and put 1/2 tsp, recommended for 5 gallons, in a 2 liter starter. The cell counts have been good. I see no reason why this wouldn't also hold for white lab's nutrient. I think the main concern is flavor thresholds, not toxicity, or osmotic pressure required by the cell to maintain equilibrium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-09-27T09:02:38.627" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T09:02:38.627" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="747" CreationDate="2012-09-25T14:51:10.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honey is aseptic. The water content is too low for microorganisms to develop, so there is no need to pasteurize or use campden. Campden is used in winemaking to eliminate the wild yeasts which exist on grape skins, this helps ensure a more consistent product by eliminating the variation introduced by wild yeasts. None of this is necessary with mead and in fact will be detrimental by either driving off volatile aromatics (heat) or by introducing potential off-flavors (sulfites).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more pedantic will argue that honey can never be perfectly sterile (hence why you aren't supposed to feed honey to infants, for example) and so there's always some tiny, theoretical chance of something nasty being in there. In practice the risk is so minuscule as to be negligible. The alcohol resulting from fermentation should kill off any stray spores that might have been in the original honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T14:51:10.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7774" CreationDate="2012-09-25T21:05:48.030" Score="4" ViewCount="1171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally like to let my fermented beer sit in the primary fermenter for a couple of hours in the kitchen (where I bottle) to give any sediment a chance to settle to the bottom of the carboy. I haven't had any issues with skunk beer, but am I testing fate by doing this? I don't have blinds in my kitchen. The sunlight this time of year in my region is mild at this time of the day (17:00 EDT) and it's not in direct sunlight. More like a shaded section of my kitchen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T08:14:55.443" Title="How much light is too much light?" Tags="|skunk|light|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7749" CreationDate="2012-09-25T22:06:08.553" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed a half dozen batches of beer, and I am thinking of trying my hand at making some wine for the first time. Most likely a Red. We go through a lot of 750 mL glass water bottles. I would start saving them if I knew I could bottle wine in them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind getting a corker and trying a bottle to see if its feasible. What I am more curious about is the affect of the bottles' color, shape and maybe other things I don't know about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the bottle I'm talking about. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001CTLQPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B001CTLQPG/ref=dp_image_0?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;n=3760901&amp;amp;s=hpc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2101" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T14:02:55.217" Title="750 ml sparking water bottle for wine?" Tags="|bottling|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7748" CreationDate="2012-09-26T14:02:55.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the neck diameter for screw top water bottles is smaller than corked bottles. That is, I don't think a cork will fit that bottle. If you can find a closure that gives a good seal, the other factors shouldn't matter, though without the atmosphere exchange provided by a cork, the wine will not &quot;age&quot; in the bottle. Since the glass is clear, keep the bottles in a dark place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T14:02:55.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7747" CreationDate="2012-09-26T15:34:21.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's not direct sunlight, the reaction that produces skunking will take longer, but you're not completely safe.  You should probably take steps to limit the amount of light as much as possible in that situation.  Maybe throw a towel over it as it sits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T15:34:21.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7752" CreationDate="2012-09-27T01:18:58.590" Score="4" ViewCount="1834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at ways to improve my brew efficiency, and one method that I've not seen much discussion of is increasing the boil duration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually when I finish lautering, the wort coming out is still at 10 or 20 points, so there's more sugar to be extracted. Why not start the boil with the very first runnings that are collected, and boil a gallon or two off while lautering the rest? This would allow one or two more batches of sparge water to be circulated, to give the same final volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside I can see is that this would take a bit longer, are there any reactions that I would need to look out for here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2451" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T17:22:32.037" Title="Any reason not to boil for longer?" Tags="|boil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7751" CreationDate="2012-09-27T02:54:17.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the main downside would be the potential for excessive colour and flavour formation, although this would mainly affect pale beers, and it probably wouldn't be enough to push it out of style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/13-boiling/1682-wort-boiling-homebrew-science&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an article I linked to&lt;/a&gt; from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7176/what-is-the-purpose-of-boiling-wort/7177#7177&quot;&gt;previous answer&lt;/a&gt; that talks about what happens during the boil, which also mentions pH as another variable. I don't know for sure, but I suspect you would reach a lower limit after a certain amount of time, so longer boiling may not have any noticable effect on pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned, it would take a bit longer. I'd personally trade off the mash efficiency for my time, as the latter is more valuable to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T02:54:17.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7754" CreationDate="2012-09-27T03:11:23.247" Score="2" ViewCount="2194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished my first batch, a Brooklyn Brew 1gal kit, and was unable to split the batch evenly over 8 bottles so I ended up with 7.5.  When I went to taste the beers after two weeks in the bottles I received 2 very different flavors between a full bottle and the half bottle.  What is the cause? and how can I prevent this issue in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information:  I was using 22oz Grolsch bottles and was able to put in about 12oz into that bottle.  Since I didn't have a capper I stayed in the same bottle. I did not individually sugar the bottles but placed the maple syrup(in lieu of sugar) directly into my pot.  The flavor was more tart and flat compared to the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2301" LastEditorUserId="2301" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T01:07:39.300" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T03:24:13.640" Title="How does bottling in a half bottle effect taste" Tags="|bottling|taste|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7753" CreationDate="2012-09-27T04:11:06.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few possible reasons come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have added the same amount of sugar to each bottle (as opposed to adding directly to your bucket) then you have different &quot;gravities&quot; and depending on how much it's fermented, different flavour profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have left a large headspace in the bottle during the carbonation phase, you might find that the carbonation has not absorbed into the beer itself, rather into the headspace.  CO2 has it's own flavour but carbonation affects mouthfeel and flavour too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When bottling that last beer, if you weren't able to get a full bottle's worth of beer, you likely got a fair bit of yeast and/or trub along with the beer.  This will significantly affect flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you provide some detail on the different flavours (e.g. bready, bitter, tart, fuller) we could help figure out which is most likely.  My money is on #3 though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T04:11:06.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7757" CreationDate="2012-09-27T13:27:24.073" Score="2" ViewCount="1120" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making Jamil's saison today:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10.5# pilsner&#xA;.75# wheat malt&#xA;.75# munich&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it is supposed to have 2oz of caramunich, but instead I measured, milled, and then MIXED with the rest of the grain .75 LBS (12oz) of caramunich.  Yes, six times the recipe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know caramunich will add body, caramel, and sweetness (the latter very NOT appropriate for the style), HOWEVER, here is the catch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on doing a secondary fermentation with this beer with 3-4lbs of fresh cranberries for our brewing guild Christmas party.  Would this sweetness help to balance out the tartness/sourness of the cranberries, or will it simply just be too much?  The good thing is, I have kind of written off hitting my color completely, as I've read around the interwebs that cranberries will add a brownish color to the beer anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T21:04:11.207" Title="What will too much Caramunich do to my beer" Tags="|specialty-grains|saison|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7753" CreationDate="2012-09-27T17:38:04.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As C4H5As said, the half-full bottle may have been under-carbonated due to having so much headspace.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You also may have had more oxidation due having so much more air in the bottle initially. John Palmer has a list of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Common Off-Flabors&lt;/a&gt; and says that oxidation causes &quot;wet cardboard or sherry-like flavors&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The solution:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I'm bottling, I try to avoid this problem by using a mix of 12oz and 22oz bottles. If you're using 12oz bottles and get to the end and realize you only have half a bottle left, carefully pour it into a 22oz bottle with one of your full 12oz bottles. Or if you're bottling in 22oz bottles, pour the half-empty last one into a 12oz bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;These problems can also both be avoided by force-carbonating in a keg and then flushing the bottles with CO2 before filling, but I assume that's way beyond you at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I prefer to use 22oz bottles in general, since they're more fun to share and require less work to clean and bottle. But they're harder to obtain.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="1736" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T03:24:13.640" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T03:24:13.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7755" CreationDate="2012-09-27T21:04:11.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you will have a problem at all - even though it is technically 6x the recipe, it is still a relatively small proportion of your whole batch, which is mostly pils.  Sure, the color won't be as light, but I think the sweetness won't be crazy overwhelming with under 1lb and will probably be nice to have another flavor in the beer aside from straight up cranberry.  What you can do to be safe is to draw off a sample before secondary fermentation, put it in the fridge (to at least normalize for the temp factor of drinking finished beer), and then throw a cranberry or two in there and taste it.  Sure, it's a rough estimate, but you might have some clues about how much/if to add the cranberries.  I certainly don't think your beer concept is ruined, it'll probably be great!  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheri&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2721" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T21:04:11.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7736" CreationDate="2012-09-27T23:30:54.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to disassemble the connector. That slot at the top will take a medium-large flathead screwdriver. Just keep on eye on where the spring goes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T23:30:54.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7751" CreationDate="2012-09-28T02:11:14.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are suggesting sounds like you want to do a semi-normal high-gravity batch along with a two-penny beer (second run on the same grain bed) and adding the two together and boiling it down to get your desired volume.  And, in the process of waiting for the second to finish, starting the boil on the first run to speed up the concentration process.  Do I have that right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting off, I concur with tallie about running longer than normal boils.  I've ran my boils over the norms (~ +50%) and had slightly darker beer as a result.  Aside from the slightly darker color, it didn't seem to change the flavor any when doing a full volume boil. (See next for the exception...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with starting the boil with a smaller and more concentrated wort, you could potentially get some caramelization flavors as a result.  I have had this happen to me when I first started brewing with extracts and didn't have a large boil kettle to work with. (I boiled a 5gal batch of extract in a 2gal kettle... can you say Sugar Daddy Candy?).  Aside from the off character flavor, it was obviously darker than it should have been too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to say these are unavoidable consequences... just that they are potential results.  I don't honestly see the caramelization flavors coming through nearly as strong as in my overly concentrated example since I don't think your first run will be nearly that high in sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that as it may be... Considering your question is about a method of raising the efficiency of extracting sugar from your grain... Have you given any thought into trying &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/923/how-do-you-sparge&quot;&gt;Fly Sparging?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I've not done it myself; but, it seems as thought you are already heading down a similar path anyway and this may get you into less trouble.  Food for thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2722" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T02:11:14.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7751" CreationDate="2012-09-28T17:22:32.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various ways to increase efficiency and one of them is to sparge more, collect more wort and boil longer.  The issue with that is that the sparge wort is &quot;lower quality&quot; than the first runnings.  According to Kai Troester, mash efficiency is composed of (conversion efficiency)x(lauter efficiency).  &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Troubleshooting_Brewhouse_Efficiency#Calculating_Efficiency&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Troester efficiency&lt;/a&gt;  Obviously, raising either will increase the overall efficiency.  However, you will produce better quality beer by raising the mash efficiency rather than the lauter efficiency.  Look at grain crush, water amounts and pH as a way to increase conversion efficiency.  If you batch sparge, tannin extraction should not be a concern with increased sparging unless you pH is way out of whack during the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T17:22:32.037" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7768" CreationDate="2012-09-28T17:53:44.513" Score="3" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &quot;Radical Brewing&quot;, Mosher endorses home-roasting grains, but suggests that after roasting, you store the grains for 2 weeks or so to let some of the acrid flavors subside.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I roasted/toasted 1lb of flaked oats to make Jamils McQuaker Oatmeal stout.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What compounds are forming that taste acrid?  Can you let them 'rest' for less than two weeks for them to subside?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T20:55:22.693" Title="Benefits of 'resting' home-roasted grains" Tags="|stout|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7773" CreationDate="2012-09-28T18:54:59.087" Score="2" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;Used socket wrench attachments (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.cdsct.com/uploads/201008/Socket%2520Wrench%2520Set.jpg&amp;amp;imgrefurl=http://www.cdsct.com/products/show-2666.html&amp;amp;h=262&amp;amp;w=350&amp;amp;sz=18&amp;amp;tbnid=lQ0dxi-EuUQfCM%3a&amp;amp;tbnh=90&amp;amp;tbnw=120&amp;amp;zoom=1&amp;amp;usg=__UQ8t13r_jVd6N1JshviqoXeaVXk=&amp;amp;docid=vFcwxC5ThScm5M&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=bfFlUI-4MIKxiwL4jYDYBQ&amp;amp;ved=0CD0Q9QEwBA&amp;amp;dur=47&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;) to weigh down two dry hop bags.  They are a coated steel material, so I thought they would be easy to sanitize.  Then after I put them in, I found that one bag didn't have enough weight (after 10 minutes of cramming it into the carboy neck).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could these affect beer flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T22:02:56.520" Title="Can weighting dry hop bag with metal objects impact the flavor?" Tags="|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7762" CreationDate="2012-09-28T18:58:28.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they're SS and you sanitized then you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I've never weighted a hop bag in hundreds of batches dry hopped and I've never felt that I would gain anything by doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T18:58:28.540" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2012-09-28T19:20:44.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A recipe that a friend of mine and I have been playing with includes some cayenne pepper. I really like the taste, and I think it can actually have the effect of making the ginger beer taste more like ginger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://48bottles.com/?s=ginger+beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://48bottles.com/?s=ginger+beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2544" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T19:20:44.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7767" CreationDate="2012-09-28T21:49:57.587" Score="2" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to my LHBS today and there was a guy there who I've never had service with (been going to this place about 3mo now). He ended up giving me the wrong grains, and I'm wondering what I can do with these, or how it will turn out (they are all mixed and milled in a brown bag).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recipe was for a simple 5.5 gallon weizen and what he gave me won't meet the criteria for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;I requested the following grains:&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5# Wheat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4# Pilsner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1# Crystal 40L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;This is what I got:&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5# Pale 2-Row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4# Wheat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1# Crystal 40L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering just using it and seeing how it turns out, and going back to get the right stuff tomorrow. Then I can brew two batches this weekend, so no major loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2012-09-29T13:48:08.567" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T13:47:18.253" Title="LHBS Got my grain bill wrong. Suggestions?" Tags="|ingredients|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7765" CreationDate="2012-09-30T13:47:18.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would continue with the recipe - the yeast do most of the talking in a German wheat, and the grain bill is still close enough. It's not going to be as pale as the original, but then with 11% C40 it's not going to be very pale anyway, so the difference not significant compared to the color already present. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to mash it a couple of degrees F lower to try to get a little more dryness and grain character to offset the pale vs pilsner malt, since the pale malt is naturally warmer and slightly maltier in character, although that's not unwelcome, and you may simply not notice this under the mass of flavor from phenols and esters produced by the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T13:47:18.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7761" CreationDate="2012-09-30T20:55:22.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know the specific compounds produced that are acrid, but I do know that maltsters rest their dark malts for 3-4 weeks, less for light malt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compounds produced are from Maillard reactions - the name for a whole series of reactions between amino acids and reducing sugars. Many of the reactions are still not fully understood - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.food-info.net/uk/colour/maillard.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; shows the initial reactions that can lead to the complex mixtures that form melanoidins, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://what-when-how.com/food-colors/food-browning/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; shows one of the proposed pathways for melanoidin production. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many other compounds are also produced in Maillard reactions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Other byproducts include aldehydes (furans, thiophenes,&#xA;  polysulfides, thiols) which can contribute to the desired smells&#xA;  (furfural which is an aromatic aldehyde has an almost almond smell),&#xA;  Diacetyl (buttery flavor…also produced and consumed in the&#xA;  fermentation process), acrylamide which is shown to be harmful, and&#xA;  many more.  Some of the byproducts, harmful and beneficial are&#xA;  volatile and will evaporate during the process or upon the weeks of&#xA;  rest the grains should undergo after roasting.  One amino acid reacted&#xA;  with Glucose or Fructose can be shown to produce over 20 different&#xA;  aroma-active compounds and countless other volatile and non-volatile&#xA;  compounds, malted barley has many hundreds of possible amino acids and&#xA;  though maltose is the main reducing sugar there are many more&#xA;  available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://toxicbrewcompany.com/2010/08/06/thebrewers-notebook-grains-malting-grain-roasting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grains, Malting and Roasting&lt;/a&gt; - Toxic Brew Co.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylamide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Acrylamide&lt;/a&gt; is formed by the Maillard reactions above 180C, 350F and is present in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roasted_grain_beverage#Safety&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dark grains&lt;/a&gt;. It is carcinogenic in animals, and according to the article above, volatile, so a rest is necessary to reduce the levels of this compound in the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T20:55:22.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7776" CreationDate="2012-10-01T13:17:35.223" Score="2" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read a few accounts of brewers using slow temperature increments to bring out particular flavours from the yeast that they're using.  For example, stepping up 1C or so every day over a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically I've read suggestions that a saison yeast (e.g. wyeast 3711, 3724) being stepped through the recommended range over a week - 18 to 25C (or higher).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the same flavour profile be obtained by letting the brew naturally fluctuate between the two extremes or is it crucial to &lt;strong&gt;increment&lt;/strong&gt; the fermentation temperature?  I'm using 3711 in a saison but I'm more interested in the general answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T13:52:22.063" Title="Slow temperature rising vs equivalent fluctuations" Tags="|yeast|flavor|fermentation-temperature|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7769" CreationDate="2012-10-01T13:46:35.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Jamil's podcast on brewing saison, he notes that the reason for stepping up is to achieve a high level of attenuation (dry beer), while minimizing fusel alcohols.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The natural fluctuation that you mention is the result of heat being generated BY the yeast as it metabolizes the sugars/carbs in your wort.  This can raise the temperature of your fermenter considerably during the active phase of fermentation (on my system (ale pails/carboys), I've seen it as much as 5-10 degrees).  This is why it is important to monitor your fermenter temp, and ambient air temp can be far less relevant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Whats a couple of degrees difference?&quot;, most people ask.  Remember that yeast are SINGLE celled organisms.  We are 50 trillion-celled organisms.  65 degrees F and 66 degrees F feel the same to us, but for yeast its could be the difference between Chicago in December and Tuscon in August.  I certainly eat, digest (and likely reproduce) very differently in those two climates!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shorter answer is by keeping control of the temperatures at which yeast are metabolizing your sugars, you are keeping control of the compounds they make, which will ultimately flavor your beer/wine/other fermented beverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made saisons without temp control, and they are good.  However, I can defintely perceive fusels (hot alcohol).  If you really want the yeast's spicy, fruity phenols to be apparent, with a dry finish, the step up is critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T13:46:35.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7772" CreationDate="2012-10-01T17:43:49.347" Score="1" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;Still relatively new to hop growing and this year is my first viable yield worth harvesting.  My cones are seemingly ready and some cool weather is on the way.  Do I need to get the cones off the vine before frost hits?  I've got one done and it is time consuming but frost may hit before the weekend, just wondering what impact frost might have.  Can only find frost related questions regarding planting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently no tags have been created for harvest or frost, otherwise they'd be added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2436" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-10-01T18:15:45.110" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T18:15:45.110" Title="Is hop harvesting before first frost necessary?" Tags="|hops|harvest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7771" CreationDate="2012-10-01T17:56:11.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, harvest them.  IME, frost burn will ruin them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T17:56:11.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7762" CreationDate="2012-10-01T22:02:56.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised no one else has said this is a terrible idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those socket attachments are chrome plated.  Chrome, especially cheap chrome you are likely to find on your socket set, is not the same as stainless steel!  Furthermore, some  forms of chrome are really toxic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromium_toxicity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromium_toxicity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your wort probably has a pH in the 5.5 to 6.0 range.  I don't know if that is enough to corrode your chrome plated metal or not because I don't know the details or science of corrosion of chrome plated steel.  Will much corrosion occur in a week or two that you dry hop?  Probably not.  But my cheap chrome tools rust and corrode if I leave them and they get wet so ....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would err on the side of caution and remove those sockets from your wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to weigh it down for some reason, I'd go for something more inert like clear glass or perhaps a stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T22:02:56.520" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7747" CreationDate="2012-10-02T00:23:29.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your beer will be fine for a few hours in the kitchen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skunking is caused by the ultraviolet radiation which provides energy for reactions involving the isomerized hop acids and sulphur compounds in the beer. While there is a small amount of UV radiation emitted by fluorescent bulbs, it's much less than sunlight - 8 hours under a fluorescent bulb is about the same as a minute of sunlight - about 1/500th the amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes a few minutes of sunlight to skunk a beer, so you'd need to leave the beer under the fluorescent lamp for 24 hours or more, and if your fermentor is semi-opaque plastic bucket it will provide some UV protection, so even longer would be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.professorbeer.com/articles/skunked_beer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer faults 2, Skunked beer&lt;/a&gt; - Professor Beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorescent_lamp#Ultraviolet_emission&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fluorescent lamp, UV emission&lt;/a&gt; - Wikipedia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T08:14:55.443" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T08:14:55.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7675" CreationDate="2012-10-02T14:01:33.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had this same thing happen during wort chilling.  I believe that most food-grade thermometers do not contain lead or mercury.  We confirmed by rigging up some magnets and fishing out all of the pellets (lead is not magnetic).  We also made sure to very carefully filter on transfer to remove any remaining glass.  The batch turned out great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thermometer we broke was just like &lt;a href=&quot;http://labelpeelers.com/brewers-best-floating-thermometer-p-2611.html?gclid=CM3V84-94rICFQsGnQodAyMA7g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely dump if you confirm that the pellets are lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T14:01:33.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7769" CreationDate="2012-10-03T13:52:22.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature swings will cause the yeast to drop out and not dry out your beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of fermentation, most of the nutrients and food have been consumed and the yeast will want to drop out and go dormant. With repeated temperature swings, most if not all of the yeast will go dormant with each drop in temperature, and it takes a lot more warming or additional sugars to get them started again in the nutrient-deficient environment, which means in practice they stay dormant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By raising the temperature, the increased metabolism allows the yeast to consume compounds that normally ferment much slower, such as maltriose at a rate that can sustain the cell so that it doesn't go dormant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T13:52:22.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7780" CreationDate="2012-10-03T18:16:59.487" Score="3" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently found that there was a home brew store much closer to my house than the one that I had been visiting. The new store has a larger selection of grains, yeast, and hops; but I've been having a lot of trouble with slow or stuck mashes since I started going to the new store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have my own mill, so I rely on the LHBS to mill my grains. I thought that the mill at the new store might be too tight, but they assured me that opening it up any more would cause a lot of the grain to fall through totally un-cracked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current setup is a 5 gallon round igloo cooler with a false bottom. I'm generally mashing at 154° F for about an hour. If I fill my mash tun with only water if flows freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've now had two batches that we so stuck that I had to abandon them, even straining through a colander wouldn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What would you recommend I do? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there some way I can verify that their mill is set properly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I be using a bazooka tube instead of a false bottom? A grain bag?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More rice hulls?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My own mill?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T19:21:55.130" Title="Stuck Mash -- New LHBS" Tags="|all-grain|sparge|mash-tun|mill|crush|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7778" CreationDate="2012-10-03T19:11:43.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To really verify their crush, you'd need some kind of sizing screen.  For a quick check, though, I'd just dump a cup of milled grain into a sandwich bag and shake it a bit.  You should be able to see how much flour or really fine particles are in there.  If you've got a lot of small stuff, then their mill is too tightly gapped.  Doesn't sound like they're willing to adjust it, though, so you may have to resort to buying your own mill.  Apparently there's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/just-got-new-cereal-killer-grain-mill-341900/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a good one out for about $100&lt;/a&gt;, maybe it'd be worth looking into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T19:11:43.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7778" CreationDate="2012-10-03T19:12:09.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like it's the crush. Get some feeler gauges and measure the distance. Typical distance is 0.038 to 0.042 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xDti6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T19:12:09.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7778" CreationDate="2012-10-03T19:21:55.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be their mill, or it might be that your system isn't capable of dealing with properly milled grain.  What kind of efficiency were you getting from the other shop that milled your grain?  If it was good, then I'd say the mill at the new shop may be set too fine.  If you were getting low efficiency before, you might want to consider changing your lautering system.  I use a SS braid and I've found it to be much less prone to stuck runoffs than either a false bottom or manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T19:21:55.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7782" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-04T01:44:31.683" Score="3" ViewCount="4296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to keg my cider at 0.7 baume (approx 12g/l) residual sugar to carbonate my cider to 3 volumes of CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I add pasteurized apple juice to sweeten my cider after kegging, will this ferment out? Or will the pasteurization of the juice prevent it from being fermented, causing the .7 baume of sugar to be fermented while leaving the sweetness of the added apple juice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastEditorUserId="1561" LastEditDate="2012-10-10T17:12:22.503" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T19:46:30.907" Title="Back Sweetening Naturally Carbonated Cider" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7782" CreationDate="2012-10-04T14:52:52.293" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The residual sugar in the cider will ferment, as will the sugar added to sweeten the cider. It doesn't matter that the apple juice is pasteurized, as long as there are still yeast in the cider you're adding it to. To have a sweet cider you need to remove or kill the yeast before you sweeten. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use filtration or chemicals (potassium sorbate and sulfite) to kill or remove the yeast. I don't like these options since they both change the flavor. What I do is cold-crash the cider, which reduces the yeast's activity, though it doesn't kill them. I then carbonate and sweeten, always keeping the cider very cold. If you drink it quickly it probably won't re-ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try cask conditioning to carbonate the cider, then cold crashing and back sweetening. Just be sure to keep the cider very cold after sweetening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2012-10-05T01:22:41.090" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T01:22:41.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-04T15:36:10.747" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4924/how-can-i-put-minerals-back-into-distilled-or-reverse-osmosis-water&quot;&gt;How can I put minerals back into distilled or reverse osmosis water?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This weekend I'll be brewing a recipe from Mitch Steele's 'IPA' book. The recipe has a very exact water profile, so I decided to use RO water and build the water with salts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, when do I add these salts? I can add them to the mash water. I can add them to the sparge water. I can add them to the boil kettle. I can add them to all three. What's the best approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T15:36:10.747" Title="When to add salts to RO brewing water" Tags="|mash-ph|gypsum|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-10-04T15:41:01.780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7592" CreationDate="2012-10-05T15:50:38.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really doubt that's the source.  At one point, I had similar (although not galvanized) hose clamps in my tun.  I never noticed any off flavor from them.  If there was anything getting into the mash from them, the amount would be extremely small.  Then it would go through the boil and fermentation.  I can't imagine that any flavor would be left from it.  And I can't imagine how it could cause an ashtray/cigarette taste.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T15:50:38.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-06T18:57:59.657" Score="1" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does a home brew taste like if it is contaminated? I just bought a home brew kit about a month ago that came with a recipe for an Irish Red Ale. My beer has been bottled now for a week and upon testing one of my brews it didn't taste very good; it left a bad after taste and it is still flat. Has my beer been contaminated? Will it still carbonate? Is there still hope for my beer turning out alright?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I was thinking there would be some sort of positive progress by now. Is the aftertaste or off flavor from contamination or does it just need more to mature? Also, does carbonation need the full two to three weeks before it begins to take effect at all? I'm afraid I may have missed on my very first batch. This wouldn't sit well with me since my dvd made the claim, &quot;if you can make mac and chesse you can make brew it's that simple&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2740" LastEditorUserId="1561" LastEditDate="2012-10-10T17:11:41.397" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T17:11:41.397" Title="Batch not carbonated/off flavor a week after bottling" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7786" CreationDate="2012-10-07T15:59:52.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of time carbonation takes can vary.  1 week is a very short time and I'm not too surprised by the result you found.  Make sure to store the bottles around 70F to speed thing up.  As to the off flavor, there's no way we can tell unless you can describe it better.  Take a look at this &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Brew troubleshooting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-10-07T15:59:52.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7790" CreationDate="2012-10-07T16:43:36.947" Score="4" ViewCount="1619" Body="&lt;p&gt;Planning on adding 5 lbs of frozen, thawed cranberries to a saison.  Can I just dump them (gently) into the primary?  I was planning on some sort of tertiary/bright vessel afterward for clearing it up anyway.  Just figured I would save one 'racking' and have one less chance of oxygenation/contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe this should be a separate question, but in the tertiary/bright vessel, should I add some pectic enzyme with my gelatin?  This is not the blondest of saisons, but will be serving this beer @ my HB guild's xmas party, and clarity always makes for a better drinking experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T13:03:45.597" Title="Do I need to rack to a new vessel for a secondary (fruit) fermentation" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|fruit|clarity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7791" CreationDate="2012-10-07T19:23:18.613" Score="3" ViewCount="2653" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a batch of cider that I've kegged. I did so at about 1.011 (OG was 1.052 IIRC). While the yeast activity will decline as the keg chills, I'd like to stop it completely so that I can bottle some of this cider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got some potassium metabisulfite, will this do the job? If so, how much should I use for 4.5 gallons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2012-10-09T07:14:26.027" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T03:01:49.570" Title="Kill yeast in keg" Tags="|yeast|cider|keg|bottle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7788" CreationDate="2012-10-07T20:00:08.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Second part first...&#xA;In my experience don't bother with pectic enzyme for cranberries.  They don't seem to release that much.  I speculate its do to their firm skins vs. raspberries or other fruits.  A gelatin rest for should be fine.  The few cranberried beers I've done cleared up just fine with out pectin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first part second...&#xA;If you let primary come to a finish, then add the cranberries I think you'll be good.  I did a cherry wheat and added 6lb cherry puree 3 days into the primary and the aroma wasn't where I expected it to be.  Other fruit beers I have done I did with the fruit post primary and some of the subtle character is preserved better.&#xA;Yes, fermentation will re-start but it won't be nearly as vigorous as when all the malt is fermenting as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-10-07T20:00:08.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7789" CreationDate="2012-10-07T20:44:05.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;K-meta alone will not.  You need the one-two punch of Potassium Sorbate (to prevent the yeast from reproducing) and Potassium metabisulfite (to kill existing cells).  Note that this will take a bit of time, so you should expect to see a bit more of a gravity drop in the mean time.  Using cold to slow yeast growth at the same time is advised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-10-07T20:44:05.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7820" CreationDate="2012-10-07T23:38:07.347" Score="1" ViewCount="676" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to get the scum out of the must when making mead without boiling? I used to vigorously boil the must and it would produce a lot of scum which was easily removed. I've since read that boiling too hot will damage the flavour. I tried making a mead where the must was kept much cooler (about 60 degrees C) and much less scum was produced. There was also an unpleasant off-flavour which I think might have been caused by scum which didn't boil out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to get the scum out of the must that doesn't involve boiling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T23:58:48.780" Title="A way get scum out when making mead without boiling?" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7792" CreationDate="2012-10-08T11:32:28.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you drop heating the honey above 40 degrees Celsius. After you have dissolved the honey completely in water I suggest you rack it into another container. But instead of racking it straight into the container, I would pour it into a cotton towel or similar (cook it first) to filter the scum out. The lower the temperature of the must is, the more of the wax gets caught in the towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only made mead myself from store bought honey that contained no scum, but I have only warmed the honey to about 30 degrees to dissolve it faster. The finished mead has a very nice honey aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T11:32:28.957" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7788" CreationDate="2012-10-08T12:42:28.667" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your primary question, the reason you transfer to a secondary is primarily to get your beer of the yeast cake (to avoid autolyse caused flavor (meaty) mostly). If you're going to rack before packaging anyway, the beer isn't especially strong (OG less than 1.060 ish) and you don't want to leave the fruit on the beer for very long (say less than a week), than you're correct in assuming it's not needed for your fruit addition. However, it is quite important to wait until primary fermentation is basically done before adding the fruit or all the tasty flavor will blow off along with the CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(to answer you meta question, this is totally two questions, I'd recommend editing your question and creating two, but maybe this is not such a bid deal. I'm not new to brewing, but I am new &lt;em&gt;here&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1425" LastEditorUserId="1425" LastEditDate="2012-10-08T13:03:45.597" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T13:03:45.597" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7809" CreationDate="2012-10-09T18:54:04.200" Score="3" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does an interruption in lagering, or swing in temperature effect a beer?  My issue is, I only have one fridge available for lagering, which doubles as my fermentation fridge.  Asked differently, if I had a helles in its 2nd week of lagering, and wanted to ferment a belgian pale ale at 67 degrees, could I remove the helles, dial in the temp for the Belgian Pale (at least for a few days), then after the first phase of fermentation is done on the BPA, start lagering the helles again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T12:04:44.520" Title="Interruption of Lagering" Tags="|lager|conditioning|lagering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1777" CreationDate="2012-10-09T23:26:24.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could get some clear bottles and spray paint them, which would make them skunk-proof and awesome looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about doing this for a while, although haven't tried it yet so can't offer any specific advice. If you wanted to get fancy you could use tape or adhesive-backed vinyl sheets to create a two-tone pattern, and then give the bottle a coat of clear finish to make it durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T23:26:24.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7799" CreationDate="2012-10-10T20:47:59.973" Score="3" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done yeast starters and I've re-used yeast beds but I have never previously harvested or captured yeast from a commercial beer.  I tried it last night, inventing my process as I went but I'm wondering if anyone has a step-by-step based on my extensive experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how do you harvest yeast from a commercial beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T15:28:48.100" Title="How do you harvest yeast from a commercial beer?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|harvest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7798" CreationDate="2012-10-10T21:17:23.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, make sure there's yeat there to capture!  Some people mistake any sediment for yeast.  For instance, every German lager I know of is filtered so there won't be any yeast.  Assuming there is yeast, make up about 2 cups of 1.020 wort.  Flame the opening of the bottle with the yeast you want to capture and pour the sediment into your starter wort.  Let it ferment out.  You probably won't see much activity at this point.  Then you can use 1.035 wort to step it up to the amount you need.  Depending on the OG and amount you want to pitch it into it may take a couple steps.  And keep in mind that the lower the OG of the beer you want to capture yeast from, the more likely the yeast is to be in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2012-10-11T15:28:48.100" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T15:28:48.100" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-11T23:12:57.663" Score="0" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1472/cleaning-difficult-krausen-ring-off-better-bottle&quot;&gt;Cleaning difficult krausen ring off Better Bottle&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just finished my first batch of beer from a Brooklyn Brew Kit, and noticed a film in my fermenter.  This film is right below the the bottle opening along the curve of the glass.  My question is what is the safest way to remove this film without scratching the glass?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IjvK3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2301" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T19:25:08.397" Title="Cleaning Fermenter" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-10-19T19:46:16.247" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7802" CreationDate="2012-10-12T06:37:32.110" Score="2" ViewCount="1990" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically what the title says.  I'd like to switch to all grain at some point but the volume of water required to cool a decent sized wort down scares me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I have access to liquid nitrogen, how can I use it to cool my wort?  Can I just dump it in?  Can I use standard cooling gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T13:05:12.110" Title="Can I use liquid nitrogen to cool my wort?" Tags="|temperature|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7801" CreationDate="2012-10-12T16:15:53.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hehe, bad idea - you couldn't have a beer on brewday since you'd have to stay sober to handle this with appropriate care! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But seriously, I'm wondering that if you have to ask the question about suitability then you are probably not familiar with handling liquid nitrogen. As well as getting suitable training, you would need equipment that is designed to work at those temperatures - while a copper heat exchange coil might be fine, gaskets and hoses would have to be swapped out for types that can tolerate the cold temperature and the pressure. The liquid to gas expansion at room temperature is nearly 700-fold, so great pressure can be created with risk of explosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, nitrogen isn't so great a coolant. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_nitrogen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; says this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Despite its reputation, liquid nitrogen's efficiency as a coolant is&#xA;  limited by the fact that it boils immediately on contact with a warmer&#xA;  object, enveloping the object in insulating nitrogen gas. This effect,&#xA;  known as the Leidenfrost effect, applies to any liquid in contact with&#xA;  an object significantly hotter than its boiling point. More rapid&#xA;  cooling may be obtained by plunging an object into a slush of liquid&#xA;  and solid nitrogen rather than liquid nitrogen alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, heat exchange is effective while the nitrogen is liquid. Nitrogen is liquid between 63K and 77K - so that's at most a change in temperature of 14C (25F) before it becomes a gas and then becomes much less effective at heat exchange. So, even though the nitrogen is very cold, little of that temperature difference is exchanged with the wort. You'd need a lot of nitrogen, and it is certainly less efficient than using water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, combined with all the above seems to make it not worth the hassle or risk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at your original fear of the amount of water used, I use 18-22 gallons of water to chill 10 gallons of wort to pitching temps via a Dudadiesel 50 plate chiller. The amount varies with the time of year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The output from the chiller goes back into my HLT. The water comes out warm - around 50-60C/125-140F, which I typically use some or all afterwards, so it's not wasted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use some of it to clean out the boil kettle and MLT after brewday, rinsing out the pumps, chiller, HERMS coil etc..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix some with oxyclean/PBW for a more intensive clean of the kettles, cleaning buckets/carboys etc..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leave it in the HLT with the lid on and brew again the next day. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last one is the most efficient use - by using the water again for the next day's brew, your water wastage can become much less per brew. Also heating is reduced in half since most of the heat is retained, making it also more energy efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-10-13T13:05:12.110" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T13:05:12.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7800" CreationDate="2012-10-12T16:50:58.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fill it with a solution of warm water and PBW, Oxiclean, or another oxygen based cleaner.  Let it soak for a few hours and it should come right off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T16:50:58.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7801" CreationDate="2012-10-12T16:57:24.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it would be worth the hassle.  If you dump it in, or pour it around your BK you run the risk of cracking your kettle (less of an issue with SS than aluminium but still a possibility), and a dual heat exchanger will be a lot of work because you'll have to run antifreeze through it (plus get appropriately-rated hoses as @mdma mentioned).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to conserve chilling water, I'd suggest a dual heat exchanger set-up with some dry ice.  It'll bring your temps down pretty fast, and you'll only use a couple gallons of water.  Of course, you can get nearly the same effect by using frozen bags of water instead of the dry ice (which you could just re-freeze), but it wouldn't look as cool! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T16:57:24.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7800" CreationDate="2012-10-12T19:13:37.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are designed for 5 gallon Carboys, but there might be a smaller version at your local brew shop or online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewstuff.com/carboy-brush.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewstuff.com/carboy-brush.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can usually get 95% of my carboy clean with warm soapy water, but I almost always need the bush to get it all out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: Per Korz's comment, you should use the angled brush but avoid the soap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastEditorUserId="1750" LastEditDate="2012-10-15T19:25:08.397" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T19:25:08.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6410" CreationDate="2012-10-13T13:53:44.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm newly signed up on homebrew.stackexchange so I'm limited in where I can contribute.  This is not so much an answer, but an elaboration of the question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking it would be useful to understand an ideal water, sugar, yeast system.  For wine making, one might assume 80% sugar conversion during primary ferment.  You'd need to estimate how much yeast is produced, and how much precipitates out of solution.  The discarded lees will have a certain minimum hydration level, which you'd need to input empirically.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps it is hard to estimate total yeast production.  What is the rate limiting parameter?  Is it yeast population density, or one of the yeast grown reagents (oxygen/nitrogen/trace nutrients)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skimming &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nicks.com.au/index.aspx?link_id=76.1552&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yeasts &amp;amp; Primary Fermentation&lt;/a&gt;, this text indicates that cultured yeast fermentation usually starts around 5 billion yeast cells per litre and hints that available oxygen is one of the primary growth limiting factors (for fermentations that don't get stuck).  It goes on to say that total yeast populations for wild ferments tend to be lower than for cultured ferments, so I'm guessing that lees production would be less as a result.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A kit wine maker I'm presenting using allows for an addition of 920 ml of water to a fermentation that begins at 23 litres, to make it up to the desired end volume.  I would guess the 920 ml covers various process losses, such as CO2 release, lees production, and evaporation.  These kits are engineered to known initial parameters and use extremely predictable yeasts.  They have less control over brew temperature and hose jockey slurpage ratios (the recommendation is to slurp from primary just about everything that will go up the tube).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've consistently found with these kits that I'm about a litre short from 2&quot; below the bung after regulation top-up, even with aggressive slurping.  My two recent vintage Italian carboys measure 23.9 kilograms of room temperature tap water (+/- 20 grams). The extra 900 ml of head space is really driving me crazy.  I've seen it written elsewhere that recent vintage Italian carboys average closer to 6.25 US gallons (my measurements work out to 6.3 gallons to my desired fill level for secondary ferment).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I wanted to look at the fermentation math as part of my dialog with my kit vendor and I found this post.  It does seem rather empirical for less controlled scenarios. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'd be grateful to anyone who votes me up to the normal minimal level of useful participation.  Less crippled I can earn my keep.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2756" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T13:53:44.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7800" CreationDate="2012-10-13T13:59:34.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fill mine with hot water and add half a cup of oxi-clean. stir it up really well (oxi-clean doesn't dissolve all that easily). I leave mine soaking over night. Empty it and spray with warm water. I have brushes but I rarely pull them out, and I use my glass for primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T13:59:34.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-14T04:06:06.453" Score="0" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just started, so my question is very basic.&#xA;I got Coopers Lager Kit, did everything by instructions, temperature has been stable at 22-24C but gravity doesn't go down. OG was 1.039, dropped to 1.020 on the 4th day and stays at that level for several days (today is 10th day of fermenting with very little bubbling). Tastes very bitter. What is wrong? Should I just bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2757" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T22:42:46.880" Title="Should I be disappointed?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7796" CreationDate="2012-10-14T12:04:44.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its fine.  There isn't anything magical going on.  Its just cold temps and stuff falling out of solution to make clear beer and let the flavors develop.  I find that most of my lagers taste great right out of the fermentor before I lager.  If your primary fermentation was done correctly there almost isn't any need for an extended lager period on flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the only thing you'll be slowing down will be the clearing period.  You beer will suffer no harm.  Just be careful about moving it around so you don't stir up sediment too much (even that isn't a big deal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T12:04:44.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4053" CreationDate="2012-10-14T14:34:52.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For commercial brewers, the two reasons for stirring during fermentation are: 1) a reduction in the time it takes to complete fermentation, and 2) breaking up foam.  Both are (were) done for economic reasons.  Reducing the time it takes to make beer reduces the amount of fermenters a brewer needs, which not only saves money on tanks, but also on real estate, heating, cooling, etc.  Foam reduction means requiring less headspace for the foam and/or reducing the amount of product lost to blowoff.  Note, that since blowoff decreases hop utilization (see my article, &quot;When fermentation rears its dirty head&quot;, Brewing Techniques; 1996; 4(3), 50-54) so savings in hops is another reason a commercial brewer would care about not having blowoff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most commercial brewers have abandoned stirred fermentations, however, according to my reading of professional brewing texts, due to cost, flavor differences, excessive yeast growth, and difficulty in getting the continuous stirred fermentation systems primed and in equilibrium.  There's even a story about how Schlitz lost its spot at the #1 brewer in the world (to A-B) because they adopted stirred fermentaters.  The story goes that switching to stirred fermenters changed the flavor of the beer enough that devoted Schlitz drinkers switched brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one commercial brewer that I know of that still uses a sort of &quot;stirring&quot; during fermentation is Samuel Smith's The Old Brewery in Tadcaster.  There, they use a yeast that is so flocculant, that they use pumps to draw beer from the bottom and spray it on top, to get the yeast back into suspension.  Otherwise the beer would not fully ferment.  I have pictures of the fermenters and the &quot;fishtails&quot; as they call them, on my website: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewinfo.org/samsmiths/samsmth5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewinfo.org/samsmiths/samsmth5.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for whether a homebrewer should swirl the fermenter to resuspend the yeast, that depends.  If you have a stuck fermentation, resuspending the yeast (as you correctly point out, taking care to not introduce oxygen or bacteria) could help &quot;unstick&quot; the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2759" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T14:34:52.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23" CreationDate="2012-10-14T14:48:18.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make great beer without rehydrating dry yeast, because as you are pitching trillions of yeast cells, you can stand to kill a lot of them.  If you rehydrate in wort, the osmotic pressure on the yeasts is not ideal.  They really just want water and a higher gravity rehydration can kill the majority of the dry yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, for the fastest start, it is recommended that you rehydrate the yeast in 90-100F water, then allow it to slowly cool down to the temperature of the wort into which you are pitching.  One way to do this is to rehydrate for 15 minutes, then double the volume of the rehydrating yeast with some of your wort.  I have had batches with a kraeusen in under 8 hours with rehydrated yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We all know that getting a fast start helps your pitched yeast outcompete unwanted yeasts, bacteria, etc.  Also, the more active yeast you pitch, the shorter and more complete your fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2759" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T14:48:18.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2012-10-14T14:53:47.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too use the bottle in which the beer came as my starter bottle... just add some wort.  It's as close to sterile as your starter flask is going to be, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I successfully revived &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; yeast from an Orval bottle this way.  Out of the 12 bottles of Orval, 6 didn't start, a few smelled bad, a couple smelled like regular yeast, and one had that magical Orval aroma!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2759" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T14:53:47.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4185" CreationDate="2012-10-14T15:00:52.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to put the wood into a steamer and kill any wild yeasts/bacteria/molds using steam.  No yeast naturally lives &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;in&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; wood unless the wood has been used previously for brewing/cidermaking/winemaking.  All you need to worry about is the surface nasties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a steamer, you can simply put a colander over a pot with a small amount of boiling water in it, and put your wood chips/spirals in that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2759" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T15:00:52.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4446" CreationDate="2012-10-14T15:13:51.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can reuse them several times, but each time you will need to wait longer to get the desired effect.  Consider that Rodenbach brewery disassembles their oak vats between batches and scrapes some wood off them.  You have the benefit of being able to taste the effect and remove the beer from the oak when you've reached the level of oakiness you want.  You can even sanitize and add more fresh oak if the reused oak is taking too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would say that the difficulty in storing the oak in a sanitary way between batches and sanitizing the now sugar- and yeast-impregnated oak outweigh the cost of just starting with fresh oak each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only oak I reuse in my home brewery is my 20 gallon oak cask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2759" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T15:13:51.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7572" CreationDate="2012-10-14T15:27:39.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;CO2 in solution does affect the yeast because it lowers the pH.  Yeast don't particularly like low pH.  Some mead stuck fermentations can be unstuck by adding calcium carbonate to lower the pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use the CO2 in the keg to force out the beer into the fermenter.  The outgassing CO2 will quickly fill the fermenter headspace and just about eliminate oxidation.  The CO2 will continue to outgas (and take some of those nasty aromatics with it, which you welcome) and by the time the yeast starts fermenting the fruit, virtually all the CO2 will have outgassed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be careful to sanitize the fruit you're adding.  The way I sanitize my fruit is that I freeze it and then dip it briefly into boiling water.  It's the outsides you need to sanitize.  I froze my fruit because I didn't want to cook it during the quick dip.  Freezing also breaks open the fruit so it's more accessible to the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, make sure you use unsulfured dried fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2759" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T15:27:39.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7627" CreationDate="2012-10-14T15:37:46.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that mdma has a good point in that step additions will stress the yeast less than pitching them into an extremely high gravity environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for adding nutrients, I would only add nutrients if the yeast appeared to need them.  I used &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; nutrients, acid, or buffers in my mead that won the AHA Gold Medal for Traditional Mead and Braggot in 1997, but granted, it was only a 10% ABV mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2759" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T15:37:46.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7592" CreationDate="2012-10-14T15:50:36.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too don't think it's the Marris Otter.  Malt made from Marris Otter barley is one of my favorites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also don't think the clamps would cause this particular problem, but you don't want steel or zinc in contact with your beer.  Iron and zinc are both toxic to yeast.  Go get some stainless hose clamps and replace the discolored ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say &quot;ashtray&quot; flavor, do you mean &quot;smoky?&quot;  If it's smoky, that character can be caused by some wild yeasts that produce phenolics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2759" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T15:50:36.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7560" CreationDate="2012-10-14T15:55:52.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some wild yeasts produce &quot;band aid&quot; aromas.  I suspect that the yeast you used had some wild yeast mixed in.  Did you smell the starter before you pitched it?  If that had an off aroma, your whole batch will have the same problem.  I always have some dry yeast on hand in case my starter smells off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2759" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T15:55:52.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7800" CreationDate="2012-10-15T02:50:54.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Matthew is right about the brush (and they do make smaller brushes for 1-gallon jugs), but it is not recommended to use soap on anything that touches your beer.  Soap leaves a film that later will kill your head retention.  Use dishwashing machine detergent in a pinch, but the best for cleaning all brewery equipment is PWB (Powdered Brewery Wash).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2759" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T02:50:54.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7792" CreationDate="2012-10-15T02:55:19.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe that the scum will affect the flavor of the mead.  I never boil my musts because boiling removes the precious aromatics from the honey.  I bring water to a boil, turn off the heat, stir in the honey, then allow it to cool to about 80F, and then drain the kettle into the carboy.  Any scum gets left behind in the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiling will give you brighter (less hazy) mead, but judges give you more points for aroma than they take away for a little haze.  At least that's what the judges said on my scoresheets when my mead won the 1997 AHA National Gold Medal for Traditional Mead and Braggot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2759" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T02:55:19.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7789" CreationDate="2012-10-15T03:01:49.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sulfites don't actually kill yeast.  They only inhibit it for a while.  The yeast will eventually recover.  Sulfites are used in winemaking to knock out the wild yeasts long enough so that the cultured yeast added by the winemaker eats up most of the sugar.  So, when the wild yeasts recover, most of the sugar is gone and they end up contributing little or no character to the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used sorbate, but I know it's used in a lot of soft drinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that jsled may be right about needing both, but I believe that he (she?) has the roles of the two chemicals reversed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2759" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T03:01:49.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7808" CreationDate="2012-10-15T03:10:00.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.020 is quite a high final gravity.  It sounds like your fermentation is stuck.  I would swirl the fermenter to resuspend the yeast (without introducing any air) and see if fermentation resumes.  If that fails, then I would buy more of the same yeast that you originally pitched, if it's dry yeast rehydrate it in 90-100F water (32-38C) for 15 minutes, then add it to the fermetner.  If you used liquid yeast, make a starter, and when the starter is bubbling fiercely, add it to the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't make a starter or didn't rehydrate dry yeast, high final gravities are frequently what you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some kits are intended to have higher final gravities, but you got less than 50% apparent attenuation.  You should expect at least 60% and probably more like 70%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2759" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T03:10:00.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7824" CreationDate="2012-10-15T14:12:05.770" Score="3" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like some, my chest freezer is my fermentation chamber, lagering chamber, and in cases where I keg, my serving chamber.  I have a keg of Oktoberfest in it now lagering and carbing up at 12psi and 35 degrees.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, if I want to use the chest for a fermentation and remove the carbed kegs, will I need to dial up the psi on the regulator?  What I would probably do is pull a growler's worth of beer at a time and put it in the fridge for serving the Okfest (and likely an IPA I will be kegging). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My two questions are 1. do I need to dial up the psi when the beer is warmer (~65 degrees) and go by the carbonation chart?  2.)  will this cause any detriment to the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T12:11:32.303" Title="Temp swings and forced carbonation" Tags="|lagering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7823" CreationDate="2012-10-15T15:00:40.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, if you want to maintain the same level of carbonation when raising temperature, then you'll need to increase the pressure applied. Similarly, when cooling, you'll need to reduce the pressure by venting some of the CO2 in the headspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the CO2 pressure inside the keg will naturally increase with the higher temperature, the rate of solubility decreases faster, so you need to apply more pressure to maintain the same volumes dissolved CO2.  If you don't, about 40% of the dissolved CO2 will come out of solution and build up in the headspace as you increase from 35F to 65F. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/ajdelange/Brewing_articles/CO2%20Volumes.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for a detailed analysis of CO2 pressure and dissolved volumes, in particular Figure 3.1 which shows a graph the ratio of volumes to pressure over a range of temperatures - at 35F is about 0.10, while at 65F it's 0.06. So, if you didn't add any CO2 you'd get only about 60% of the carbonation level you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The converse is true when you chill the beer - since it was carbed at a higher pressure, and then chilled, the volume to pressure ratio is now higher at the lower temperature, and so you get more volumes of CO2 dissolved. This is easily fixed by bleeding the excess pressure from the keg over a course of a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no long-term negative affects on your beer, although according to Charles Bamforth, the rate of oxidization increases by 3-fold for every 10C/18F increase in temperature, so the beer will oxidize faster at the increased temperature, but at these temperatures oxidization times are measured in months, so in practice I doubt you'd notice if only keeping it at room temp for a couple of weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T12:11:32.303" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T12:11:32.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7808" CreationDate="2012-10-16T22:42:46.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be more worried about the bitter taste, was it bitter or acid as in vinegar? As Korz already said it could be a stuck fermentation. I think the yeast packets in the beer kits are not under ideal conditions most of the time and stuck fermentations should not be very uncommon. Swirl or re-pitch in that case. But an infection could also leave your beer in that state, you should smell and taste it, just make sure to use sanitized equipment to taste it or you could end worse than what you started with :D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T22:42:46.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7782" CreationDate="2012-10-17T18:35:20.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to back sweeten a wine or cider, you really should consider adding a stabalizer. Potassium sorbate, as mentioned by Tobias, is the most common stabalizer used by home winemakers. Alternately, the active ingrediant is potassium metabisulfite and can be added directly with campden tablets since the sufites help with effectiveness. Sodium metabisulfite works equally well but my preference is sodium benzoate (since i like slightly less carbonation in my ciders &amp;amp; completely still wines).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not stabalizing is asking for trouble in refermentation and doing so really won't change the flavor in any noticable way as long as you let it outgass appropriately prior to kegging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T18:35:20.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-17T18:51:23.187" Score="1" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;The off flavor i am tasting is sweet, and actually tastes malty/caramel.  It's supposed to be an IPA but this sweet flavor is disconnected form the hops.  Will leaving it in the bottle longer help this out?  I did use 9lbs of LME for this recipe and about 3 oz of hops and a few oz of grain.  The sweetness really does bother me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2767" LastActivityDate="2012-10-20T05:38:04.123" Title="Partial Mash Extract twang" Tags="|off-flavor|partial-mash|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7560" CreationDate="2012-10-17T19:00:51.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering my own.  Conducted a secondary fermentation with 5lbs of dried apricots (heated to 170 then cooled in some water) after every other adjunct didn't have much of an impact.  The beer now has another flavor component and is a bit more enjoyable to drink, however, my wife still perceives the band-aid (and I can too, but her palette is a bit more sensitive).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a beer has a flavor component, including an off-flavor, it will likely stay with it.  Fusel alcohols can oxidize and become a bit more pleasant, sometimes acetaldehyde can dissipate, but for the most part, they are there to stay.   This particular phenol certainly is.  The key to making a good fruit beer is to MAKE A GOOD BEER...then add fruit to it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, long story short, if you have a flaw, you can add additional flavors to mask it, but it is beyond me how to get rid of it.  Maybe some apricot extract IN ADDITION to the secondary fermentation would have helped.  Though then again, maybe its just best to dump it sometimes....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T19:00:51.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7827" CreationDate="2012-10-17T21:50:03.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extract twang is not an extract issue at all.  It is a fermentation issue derived from poor yeast health, under pitching, temperature fluctuations or any other phenomena that stresses yeast out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer was only in primary for one week with poorly fermenting yeast that could be the source of your problem.  Next time go with two weeks primary as a minimum, at the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, it will not really go away in the bottle only get more pronounced as the beer ages/oxidizes slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T21:50:03.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7827" CreationDate="2012-10-18T01:43:48.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old extract has been found to produce that kind of off flavor.  For that reason, either make sure the LME you use is fresh or use DME instead.  It has much less chance of being stale and oxidized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T01:43:48.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7832" CreationDate="2012-10-18T09:15:12.917" Score="3" ViewCount="6836" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any way, I can measure SG with a sensor of some kind?&#xA;I guess I'm not REALLY after SG, but rather a way to determine that fermantation is done, without sampling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would very much like hook such a sensor up to a computer/microcontroller, and do constant (automatically) logging of the fermentation state, and post to a database.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to find any possible way to get this result, but I haven't really succeded, and I would to avoid, having to create some horrible device, that just reads from the hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2769" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T00:17:26.427" Title="Measuring specific gravity without sampling" Tags="|fermentation|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7831" CreationDate="2012-10-18T11:27:26.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewpi.com/brewpi-released-all-source-code-online-a-wiki-a-forum-a-bug-tracker-lets-go/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewpi&lt;/a&gt; project is developing a SG sensor. Search for &quot;digitial specific gravity sensor&quot; on that page. Details are sketchy at present, but it's based on measuring boyancy force with a load cell. Elco, the project lead, says he's managed to compensate for drift which is one of the big problems with continual sampling against a load cell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T11:27:26.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7834" CreationDate="2012-10-18T12:22:00.667" Score="13" ViewCount="12029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit confused about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my own experience, I'm no longer experiencing acetaldehyde flavours in my beer after improving my aeration methods and at the same time starting to use yeast nutrient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In his &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/IPA-Brewing-Techniques-Recipes-Evolution/dp/1938469003&quot;&gt;IPA book&lt;/a&gt;, Mitch Steele says that the biggest cause by far of acetaldehyde comes from dying yeast cells from which acetaldehyde escapes.  It's also stated that acetaldehyde production increases with yeast cell growth - so aeration will increase acetaldehyde production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only use a primary fermentor, and it is always used for two week fermentations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my theory to explain why I'm experiencing less acetaldehyde is that because I aerate better and provide a better environment to the yeast with yeast nutrient, there are fewer yeast cells dying at the end of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound plausible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since aeration promotes acetaldehyde production, I think this also means I should be careful when dry-hopping to introduce as little air as possible to the fermentor.  Yes, it will be 'scrubbed' out by the yeast consuming it, but this also means the yeast are producing acetaldehyde.   I wasn't worried about introducing air when dry hopping before - because the common concern is oxidation, but it seems to me we should also be concerned about acetaldehyde when dry hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The questions then are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does my explanation of experience less acetaldehyde seem plausible?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should we worry about acetaldehyde production when dry-hopping?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1792" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T10:15:29.917" Title="What are the primary causes of Acetaldehyde?" Tags="|beer|off-flavor|dry-hop|aeration|acetaldehyde|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7833" CreationDate="2012-10-18T13:51:10.807" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upvote on the question, and someone will undoubtedly come by with a better answer, but here goes off the top of my head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetaldehyde (a-cee-tal-de-hide....nobody says it right!) is a precursor to alcohol.  It is an intermediate compound that is formed prior to the formation of EtOH/ethanol during fermentation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the weird thing is that acetaldehyde is formed as a normal part of fermentation...but then it basically becomes the booze and is gone (hence in a well-fermented beer, you can't taste it).  When EtOH is OXIDIZED, it will become acetaldehyde again, and then likely acetic acid, which is perceived as the cidery/sliced green apple flavor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gordon Strong says (this may be somewhat akin to what Mitch says): &#xA;&quot;It is noticed mostly in young beers where the yeast were not able to reabsorb or finish the conversion of glucose to pyruvic acid to acetaldehyde and finally to ethanol. In other words, the beer was removed from the yeast too quickly.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as what Mitch says, yes, acetaldehyde will be produced more vigorously with aeration prior to pitching, HOWEVER, it will also lead to increased cell growth (and health), which will convert that acetaldehyde to EtOH and you will lose any gross green apple flavors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, in my experience, acetaldehyde comes from low pitching rate into bigger beers, taking off the yeast too quickly (2-3 weeks minimum), or in some cases, too warm of a ferment temp (I know that the typical wisdom is that this leads to fusels, but I think any time you are creating a hostile environment for yeast, it can lead to a host of issues).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the only way I could see dry hopping causing increased perception of acetaldehyde is if the oxygen introduced when one violently throws his hop bag into the fermenter and the O2 dissolvesbonds to the EtOH and reverts it back to acetaldehyde, but I do not know if that is a concern at homebrewing hopping levels/production size.  Also, if you are dry-hopping in the primary after fermentation, there should still be a decent CO2 blanket above the level of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-10-19T14:43:56.000" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T14:43:56.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7836" CreationDate="2012-10-18T19:05:34.703" Score="2" ViewCount="5965" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a related question &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7823/temp-swings-and-forced-carbonation&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but my questions are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only have one (and only have room for one) dedicated chest freezer/fridge for brewing.  I have one beer (Marzen) kegged and carbed (and in this chest freezer, chilled to 35).  I have another beer (IPA) cold-conditioning in the same chest freezer.  I would like to keg and carb the IPA for a competition that is one week from yesterday.  I would also like to brew a stout this weekend and control ferment temp, but if I carb up the IPA, I may be able to store it at the restaurant where the comp is in their cold storage walk-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.)  If I store a keg at room temperature (that was carbed at 35*), pour into a growler and stick it in the fridge for serving, will it be overcarbed (since CO2 is more soluble at lower temps)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.)  If I were to let the carbed, chilled marzen warm up when I remove it from the fridge (as I need the fridge to control the ferment of my stout this weekend and into next week), I believe I do need to adjust the pressure to a higher PSI AND LEAVE THE CO2 hooked up, but if my fridge becomes available again and I can keep a keg in there, do I simply bleed the keg and dial the pressure back down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.)  Would I be able to keep a keg hooked up, carbed, and warm, and pour into a growler, chill and serve, or would it build up too much pressure while chilling in the growler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if these are terribly involved questions, and I know, I probably should just stick to bottling until we move, but I have the kegs and thought I would give them some mileage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T21:23:30.353" Title="Storing full kegs at room temperature" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7835" CreationDate="2012-10-18T21:23:30.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple rule is: for the same amount of CO2 in the keg (not significantly adding/taking away) then higher temperature means lower dissolved volumes of CO2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q1.  No, It will not be overcarbed. If anything it will be undercarbed depending upon how long it has been at room temperature - it takes few days for the CO2 to come out of solution. (warmer=less volumes CO2 dissolved.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2. Before putting in the fridge, just shake the keg and bleed a few times to get some of the excess CO2 out of solution. Then hook up and chill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q3. I've not used a growler so I don't know what pressure they can withstand. But chilling the beer will result in less pressure not more. (The beer will chill quicker than the CO2 escapes, unless you shake it a lot, and the chilling will reduce the pressure in the headspace.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, when dispensing the beer at room temperature into the growler, you will need a long draft line to balance the pressure so you don't lose a lot of the carbonation as foam on serving. You will lose some CO2 anyway, so if you are particular about carbonation levels, then it's best to slightly overcarb by 10-15%. You can always remove the carbonation by pouring between glasses, but it's not so easy to add more CO2 if you undercarb!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T21:23:30.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7839" CreationDate="2012-10-19T14:01:33.573" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received a package with some supplies that I ordered, including Columbus hops. I was expecting to have Columbus with something around 12% AA, but the hops bags is labeled with only 6%, this is possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T17:39:19.090" Title="Columbus Alpha Acid?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7838" CreationDate="2012-10-19T17:39:19.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen Columbus that low, but I guess its possible. I would contact the seller for more details to see if they are aware of a misprint on the bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T17:39:19.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7827" CreationDate="2012-10-20T05:38:04.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know that I agree that this isn't an extract issue (though you certainly could have interrupted fermentation as well).  Depending on the malter's process and the darkness of the LME you used, you may be tasting excess melanoidins produced by the malter or by your concentrated partial boil.  I think if you boil too long, you might also experience this flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brief article discusses Browning reactions briefly.  Start there &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/articles/kettle_reactions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://morebeer.com/articles/kettle_reactions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxidation could certainly contribute as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastActivityDate="2012-10-20T05:38:04.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3412" CreationDate="2012-10-20T11:31:17.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would also add that the scum above the krausen line is very astringent, so don't mess around too much with your fermentor, since this very bitter, astringent stuff will get mixed into the beer.  It's best left out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made this mistake once, when I was dry-hopping with bags, and wanted to get the beer and hops all stirred up to get the full effect from the dry-hop.  But the beer came out astringent.  It wasn't my mash, since I used extracts.  It wasn't over dry-hopping either.  The real difference was I rocked the fermentor a good amount for 4 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1792" LastActivityDate="2012-10-20T11:31:17.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7842" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-21T19:13:55.140" Score="2" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Context:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that there are a bunch of different, hotly debated opinions on how/when to add coffee to beers. I'm much too new to be a loyalist, but I am confused: I'm brewing a Russian Imperial Stout based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/178980&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, and want to add coffee, as the recipe suggests. The recipe is confusing, however: the coffee addition is listed as 1lb, but in the brewing notes, the author mentions that s/he &quot;french pressed and allowed to cool to room temp in press&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a recipe calls for an addition of coffee in pounds, during the boil, do I add&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That weight of coffee grounds (seems like too much coffee)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That weight of brewed coffee liquid, without grounds?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brewed coffee with the grounds still swimming in it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably one of those &quot;people mean different things on different recipes&quot; situations, but I'm just after a general-case answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2232" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T14:30:55.323" Title="What does it mean when a recipe calls for a boil addition of coffee in pounds, but also mentions brewing the coffee?" Tags="|recipe|boil|coffee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7845" CreationDate="2012-10-22T05:27:27.177" Score="0" ViewCount="1372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally am making use of a kit my friend sent me.  I just brewed Muntons Gold IPA and it's been fermenting about 3 days now.  The bubbling seemed to start within 24 hours or so.  It was frisky at first, now seems to have slowed, but not stopped.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have an alternate recipe that calls for an additional 1kg of malt for a higher ABV.  The instructions don't say anything about the 7-8 day fermentation taking any longer with an extra kg of malt.  I suppose I'm an eager beaver, but just curious what I should expect on fermentation time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have extra hops I got from the homebrew shop and was instructed to add them after about 3 days.  Is this sound advise?  I love a strong hop flavour and aroma, is it necessary to dry hop in the fermenter &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2670" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T12:53:35.043" Title="First Brew Questions: Muntons Gold IPA" Tags="|dry-hop|ipa|first-time-brewer|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7847" CreationDate="2012-10-22T07:13:13.557" Score="1" ViewCount="4409" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the package of the US-05 it says it's temperature range is 58-75F.  However, all the reading on forums I am finding people tend to the lower end of the spectrum, even calling upper-60's to be too high.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first time brewing and I'm in SE Asia using a DIY cooler.  Room temps here are between 82F and 88F.  I'm able to get the ambient temp in the cooler down to 64-66F and the temp on the fermenter has been a consistent 70F.  Are these temps ok for an IPA? Should I try and get my ambient down closer to 60F?  I do enjoy that 'grapefruit' flavour and best I can tell that happens at the higher-end of the temp scale, but I just want to be sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2670" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T15:11:38.333" Title="US-05 Fermentation Temps" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7843" CreationDate="2012-10-22T12:53:35.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First things first, &lt;strong&gt;stop checking on the beer&lt;/strong&gt;. Leave it be for the next 10-14 days. Resist all urges to check on it or mess with it. The bubbling will probably stop in the next day or so and this is perfectly fine. After this 10-14 day period, get the fermentor as cold as you possible can for a few day. If you can't do this, don't worry to much. This step helps drop the yeast out before you add the hops, because the yeast in suspension can &quot;block&quot; some of the flavor from the dry hops from coming through in the final beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this time, you can add your dry hops. Put them all in the fermentor, don't put any in the bottles, and leave them in for a few days (between 3-7). After you've dry hopped for this period, get the fermentor as cold as you can again to drop out any particles floating around for a few days, then bottle the beer. Avoid getting yeast sludge or hop particles into the bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the extra malt, anytime you add fermentables to a batch, then you &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; increase the fermentation time &lt;strong&gt;slightly&lt;/strong&gt;, and, more importantly, &lt;strong&gt;you increase the amount of time the beer needs to &quot;rest&quot; or &quot;condition&quot; before it's good&lt;/strong&gt;. So for 1KG extra malt, you might see bubbles for 1 extra day, but that beer would need an extra week in the primary and maybe an extra week or two in the bottle before its best. The higher the ABV of a beer, the longer it takes to &quot;smooth out&quot; and hit its peak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the risk of over-generalizing, you should pretty much &quot;never&quot; do anything to a beer that's been fermenting for just 3 days. I would never touch a beer before the 7 day mark, and even then, that would be just to check the gravity to see how it's doing. Nothing you do to the beer at the 3 day mark will help the yeast, it will only hurt them. Old homebrewing advice to rack the beer after a couple days is outdated and sometimes harmful to the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T12:53:35.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7842" CreationDate="2012-10-22T13:09:19.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct in that there is some ambiguity in that recipe, but it's not where you think it is. Here's the lines from the recipe that concern me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Coffee was Kona coarse ground beans french pressed and allowed to cool to room temp in press. &quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;boil 10 min 1lb Coffee&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take line 1 at face value: take 1lb of Kona coffee (&lt;em&gt;coarse ground&lt;/em&gt;), French Press it (&lt;em&gt;volume of water to use is not listed, use your judgement&lt;/em&gt;), and allow it to cool down in the press before pouring it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Line 2 could mean 1 of 2 things: (a) pour the cooled coffee from the press into the boil for the final 10min, or (b) pour the coffee in at flameout, and the &quot;10 min&quot; part just means it was in the press for 10 minutes while cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe READS like its option (a), but I suspect the author meant option (b). This is because a lot of advice on brewing with coffee says &quot;don't boil it, ever.&quot; You could even pour it directly into the fermentor after primary is over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You never see liquid quantities expressed in weight in brewing, always volume. So &quot;1lb coffee&quot; would never mean &quot;1 pound of liquid coffee&quot; it would mean, &quot;1lb of ground coffee, brewed into liquid, strained&quot; (unless they SPECIFICALLY told you to leave the grounds in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T13:09:19.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7844" CreationDate="2012-10-22T13:20:04.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;70F is high for US-05, and not ideal at all. However, if you beer has been fermenting for a few days, its (a) too late to do anything, and (b) risky to drop the temp anyway, since you might shock the yeast into going dormant too early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding (a), the flavors created by the yeast mostly occur within the first 3 days of fermentation, that is when temp control is the most important. Roughly speaking, more yeast = less yeast flavor, and cooler temps = less yeast flavor. These are ROUGH ballparks (some strains do very different things at different temps) but true enough to be a general rule of thumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding (b), you don't want to drop the temp of fermenting yeast ever, in my opinion. Some strains are very cold-sensitive this way, and if you drop the temp more than a few degrees within a short time, they will &quot;go to sleep&quot; and start to drop out of suspension. If the beer is totally done, then great! But if not, then you have problems (sweet beer, funky flavors, bottle bombs(!), etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast doesn't produce &quot;grapefruit&quot; though, that's 100% from the hops you use. Centennial is the most &quot;grapefruity&quot; to me, and Cascade is close too. Any of the &quot;American-C&quot;  hops will get you there, especially if you use them in the last 10min of the boil or dry hop with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T13:20:04.167" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-22T19:48:56.270" Score="2" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of days ago I brewed some Big Ben Pale Ale from Midwest Supplies.  After the boil I poured the wort in to the fermenter atop some cold water already in the fermenter.  I checked the temp right before I pitched the yeast (muntons dry ale).  At that point I was at the temp called for on the yeast label(30-40c).  I stored the fermenter without cooling it down to below 78f, which it finally reached the following day.  The airlock was churning at that point and stopped the next day.  Should I expect problems?  Is there anything I should do at this point other than wait.  On a side note I failed to get a SG reading as well.  Thanks for any input you may have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2783" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T22:58:26.850" Title="Initial Fermentation Temp?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7848" CreationDate="2012-10-22T19:59:39.503" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you pitched the yeast under 75F you'll be OK. leave it along for 7-10 days. if you pitched over 75F there is a good chance you'll get some funky flavors and low ABV because the wort was too hot for the yeast. If it was even hotter the yeast would just be killed from the heat, but that doesn't sound like what happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;typical fermentation:&#xA;no activity for 24 hours&#xA;very active for the next 2-3 days (air lock is bubbling)&#xA;still active, but no bubbles in airlock&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this style of beer you can either bottle it after fermentation, or transfer to secondary to help clarify the beer. No more than a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;keep it in the bottle for ~5 days to carbonate and then enjoy. &amp;lt;5 days and the carbonation isn't there. 5 days is very young, but drinkable. 2 weeks it's mature enough to really enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T19:59:39.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7848" CreationDate="2012-10-22T22:58:26.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you may have misunderstood the directions on the yeast packet. 30-40C (86-104F) is much too warm for pitching the yeast into the wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pitching temperature is usually under 75F/23C. It's recommended to rehydrate the yeast in a little water at that high temperature, but not pitch into wort at that temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll still get beer at the end of it, but you may pick up some additional flavors. Typical symptoms of a high pitch are hot alcohol flavors, and elevated esters (fruitiness.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T22:58:26.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7844" CreationDate="2012-10-23T00:40:20.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I routinely ferment US-05 at 68F and it is still very clean despite others reporting in at 60F.&#xA;At 70F you'll be fine.  US-05 is a great yeast and very versatile across that whole range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, unless you've already really mastered the yeast starter and the proper amount of O2 in your beer, attempting to ferment at 60F will be difficult and likely lead to a slow ferment or a stuck ferment.  Which would be worse than fermenting at 70F IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T00:40:20.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7854" CreationDate="2012-10-23T01:54:14.800" Score="4" ViewCount="16216" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recipes for spontaneous (wild) ginger ale sometimes refer to the starter as the &quot;&lt;strong&gt;ginger bug&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. What &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; the ginger bug? Is it just an ordinary lactobacillus; is it a type of yeast? Is it something that is all around us, or something that is found specifically on the ginger? What role does the ginger play: is it simply a flavouring agent, does it act as a preservative, or is it something special (for instance, a carrier of important microörganisms that aren't found anywhere else)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(When I say &quot;ginger ale&quot;, I mean a fermented soft-drink that uses a small amount of sugar as the fermentable base. I'm not talking about beer that is flavoured with ginger.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2023-07-19T02:46:09.477" Title="What is the ginger bug, actually?" Tags="|wild-yeast|bacteria|ginger|ginger-beer|lactobacillus|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7856" CreationDate="2012-10-23T07:27:32.527" Score="4" ViewCount="13923" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm totally new to homebrewing. About to start my first brew, and it's a complete kit with instructions. &#xA;Supposedly, it can't go wrong.&#xA;BUT, it says that fermentation is over in 16 days. I assume this is not an exact number, so how can I tell, if it is done fermenting?&#xA;Can the SG measurements tell me that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when it is done, will I need to bottle it immediately, or can it wait a day or two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2769" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T13:28:04.893" Title="When is fermentation done" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7852" CreationDate="2012-10-23T10:50:36.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a good article about the ginger beer plant (which I think is your ginger bug) on this website. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2008/07/ginger-beer-plant-101.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2008/07/ginger-beer-plant-101.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T10:50:36.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7853" CreationDate="2012-10-23T12:13:07.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it has an airlock, you can watch for bubbles stopping and slowing down to get a rough idea of when primary fermentation is slowing down and stopping. The best way though is to take a gravity reading. Once the gravity stays constant for a few days you'll know that primary is finished. Just be sure to sanitize when you are checking gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need to bottle immediately once fermentation is done. The beer will be fine for months. Many high ABV styles need to be aged for months long after primary fermentation is finished before they are ready. For lighter bodied or hoppy beers, you'll want to bottle sooner but waiting a day or two is perfectly fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T12:13:07.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7853" CreationDate="2012-10-23T13:02:00.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a regular strength beer just leave it in the primary for 14-21 days and then bottle. When primary fermentation is coming to an end, the yeast turn to conditioning the beer, which removes the &quot;green&quot; taste from the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to take a gravity reading after a week then that's fine, but when brewing from a kit, I feel it's optional. I'd avoid opening the fermentor unnecessarily, and instead leave off taking a gravity reading until bottling time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T13:02:00.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7853" CreationDate="2012-10-23T14:53:37.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watch the airlock and when there seems to be no activity then take a gravity reading. If you are using a kit then you should have been given the final gravity (FG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2787" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T13:28:04.893" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T13:28:04.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7844" CreationDate="2012-10-23T15:11:38.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;US-05 is my go-to workhorse yeast. There's never been a wort or a temp (up to low 70s) that I've ever had a problem with when using it. Always well-attenuating and clean. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T15:11:38.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-23T18:27:53.307" Score="0" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given a coopers real ale kit of two cans and have never actually brewwed a full kit before.  I was wondering if and how i might make this turn out a bit better, maybe by adding hops to a partial boil?  Should this still ferment in the primary for 2 weeks, rack to secondary for a week? Any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2767" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T23:08:00.837" Title="Make a kit brew better?" Tags="|flavor|kits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7873" CreationDate="2012-10-23T18:54:21.567" Score="4" ViewCount="2221" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were asked to do a mushroom themed brewing demonstration for a local festival/market. &#xA;Yes, I said mushroom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I wondered if this really is such a good idea, but because I like crazy brews I figured: why the hell not - try anything once! Then another question arose...how? Things that I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add mushrooms to the mash (no idea how this would affect the beer, I suspect you would lose a lot of mushroom flavour)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add dried mushrooms (maybe shredded) to the wort when it is still hot, just before cooling and pitching the yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;secondary fermentation (sounds like an infection hazard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;including other additives, like nuts or spices that would go well with the flavors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;would these be a good ideas? &#xA;What would be good styles to use (I'm thinking stout?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any other ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in fun ways to include mushrooms into the brewing process, that add something to the flavour of the beer. &#xA;I'm not interested in 'magic mushrooms' or hallucinogens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2250" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T21:05:11.017" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T13:34:59.310" Title="Different ways to use mushrooms in brewing" Tags="|all-grain|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7859" CreationDate="2012-10-23T21:04:45.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding flavor and aroma hops to a partial boil are a good idea to give some extra hop aroma and/or flavor that is missing in the kit - the kits provide just hop bitterness (typically 20-30 IBUs.)  You can add 0.5 to 1oz of hops in the last five minutes of the boil. Find a hop variety that suits the style - Goldings/Fuggles for typical English aromas, Cascades for punchy zesty etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you rehydrate your yeast, no need for a secondary. Just leave in primary for 2 weeks then rack, prime and bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T21:04:45.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7862" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T21:06:17.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag is for posts that are related to working with adjuncts while brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T19:57:06.020" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T19:57:06.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7863" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T21:06:17.147" Score="0" Body="This tag is for posts that are related to working with adjuncts while brewing." OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T19:57:12.353" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T19:57:12.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7831" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:25:01.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing you will be logging the temperature as well?&#xA;One method to tell that fermentation is done is that the temperature will start dropping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1307" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:25:01.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7860" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:29:09.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be inclined to say that this should be done in secondary. A quick google search shows that some people have tried making mushroom vodka that apparently turned out well. I would suggest making an infusion in vodka with dried mushrooms like you would a spice and adding that to the final product. I can't say too much as to quantity currently, but I would err on the side of more than less, as mushroom isn't a strong flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the style, while a stout was my first thought too (as they just seem to go together), it might overpower the flavor of the mushrooms. A lighter beer would probably be able to show off the mushroom characteristics better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, this sounds like something up my alley. (I tend to be weird with my brews. E.g. potato pale ale.) I've marked this question and added it to my backlog of brewing. I'll see if I can report back with some experiment results in a month or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shortly after posting this, I remembered you asked because of a demo. If you need results sooner than a month, you should be able to prototype it since this method would be taking the infusion route. You could make the mushroom infused vodka, then buy a few different commercial beers in different styles, then add varying amounts of the infusion to different samples to determine a good starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastEditorUserId="1561" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T23:09:21.077" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T23:09:21.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7872" CreationDate="2012-10-23T23:41:37.603" Score="1" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in the middle of a 7-gallon brew, when my landlord informed me that the grain that I had put down my garbage disposal had clogged the main drain for the house. My sink is too small for an ice bath for my kettle, so my cooling plan had been to use my copper immersion chiller. But, with nowhere to put the waste water (I am nowhere near the ground floor, and there isn't an outdoor hose I can access), I had to air chill the recently-boiled wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saran-wrapped all of the gaps in the brew kettle  (the edge of the lid and the aperture for the thermometer, which I left in), and left it to air chill. It took two days until the wort came down to fermentation temperature, at which point I removed the plastic wrap, spritzed the outside of the kettle with sanitizer, and dumped it into primary. It's currently aerated and fermenting away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How worried should I be about contamination that may have occurred during two days of air cooling this wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2232" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T16:58:42.307" Title="How worried should I be about a plastic-wrapped kettle that had to air chill for two days?" Tags="|primary|contamination|cooling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7866" CreationDate="2012-10-24T01:31:45.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;actually this is a method called &quot;no chill brewing&quot; as long as you are clean about things you will be just fine. look up &quot;no chill brewing&quot; online and you will get a lot of info. GOOD LUCK!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T01:31:45.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7654" CreationDate="2012-10-24T01:37:31.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pulled out my copy of Ken Schramm's &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381802&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Compleat Meadmaker&lt;/a&gt;'s book and referenced his prefered yeast for Cysers... it's D47.  Like you, I've used it in Cysers before and have been quite pleased with the result.  A variation of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f80/chai-spiced-cyser-71457/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this cyser recipe&lt;/a&gt; actually won first place in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mazercup.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mazer's cup&lt;/a&gt; this year using D47.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically reserve 71B for my melomels, or anything fruity because of it's ability to metabolize the high level of malic acids from the fruits.  Regardless, I think it would still be able to fine cyser.  You could always add the acid back in if you find it flabby.  Remember, if you are going to use 71B be sure to rack it off the lees.  Brews do not age well on 71B lees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T01:37:31.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-24T01:42:16.700" Score="3" ViewCount="1004" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of background -- I brewed a pumpkin ale recently. The mash temp was maintained fairly high (well above 150F) for at least a full hour. The sparge was a disastrous 3-4 hour experience (despite lots of rice hulls!) The beer turned out fairly thin in body, leaving me to ponder my question here. My theory is that the mash dropped well into the range which favored beta amylase conversion for an extended period of time, allowing the complex sugars previously formed to be further reduced into fermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is this: can beta amylase continue to produce fermentable sugars from the more complex sugars produced by alpha amylase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My chemistry is rusty, but I certainly invite some technical explanations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T13:58:54.457" Title="Can beta amylase eat sugars after alpha amylase?" Tags="|mash|conversion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7732" CreationDate="2012-10-24T01:44:54.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had meads that have suffered from oxidation and have turned for the worse.  I believed this to be at least partially at fault of using a drill whip to degas.  After doing more research and experimentation, I've decided that the best method to degas my wines &amp;amp; meads is to actually use a vacuum.  I've had successful results of using a foodsaver to degas, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMW7I4d9wf8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;similar to what is seen here in this video.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice to anyone trying this is to take one of your bungs, and make a custom fit from the vacuum.  I used hot glue to the bung, and it creates a air tight seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T01:44:54.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7877" CreationDate="2012-10-24T02:10:28.977" Score="8" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 3 gallon batch of bourbon dubbel fermenting, recipe calls for priming with maple syrup, I'm thinking of siphoning off .5 gal to prime with honey and .5 gal to prime with black treacle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe calls for 1.5 oz maple syrup/gal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;I plan to use .72 oz honey and .61 oz treacle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if adjusting the priming sugars will result in a noticeable variation in flavor, and possibly carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T19:29:59.260" Title="Experimenting, Priming Sugars" Tags="|priming|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7866" CreationDate="2012-10-24T13:31:28.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How worried should I be about contamination that may have occurred&#xA;  during two days of air cooling this wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I'd be &lt;strong&gt;very worried&lt;/strong&gt;. However, not much can be done now anyway, so don't sweat it, but don't do this again for future reference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As that wort cooled, it contracted in volume slightly, which created a very slight vacuum that might have pulled air down into the kettle that had wild yeasts/bugs in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding &quot;No Chill Brewing&quot; as mentioned by Ryan, I am a big fan of it (I hardly ever &quot;chill&quot; batches anymore) but for me, I always do it in an &lt;strong&gt;air tight&lt;/strong&gt;, sealed tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did the wort smell &quot;sharp&quot; or &quot;sour&quot; when you poured into primary? I had a beer get subtly infected in my No Chill tank once, and I could definitely tell that something was wrong when I poured into primary, from the taste of the wort. Wort should be bitter + sweet, with an orange marmalade or coffee kind of flavor depending on the grainbill, but should never taste acidic or sour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T12:55:27.207" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T12:55:27.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7860" CreationDate="2012-10-24T13:34:59.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Randy Mosher in his fantastic book &quot;Radical Brewing&quot; describes a chanterelle beer that he does. I won't post the recipe since I'm not sure how copyright works for that kind of thing, but I'm sure you can google around for it if you don't own Radical Brewing. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.radicalbrewing.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.radicalbrewing.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T13:34:59.310" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7869" CreationDate="2012-10-24T13:58:54.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, at typical mash temperatures (ca. 150-156F), the beta amylase works in tandem with alpha amylase and limit dextrinase - the latter two enzymes reduce the number of limit dextrins, giving more opportunity for the beta to do it's work and produce a more fermentable wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although your mash temperature was on the high side, there will still be some beta amylase activity, and so it could continue working when the mash temp was reduced. Although the optimimum temperature is in the 140-150F range, beta amylase isn't fully denatured until 160F, so it may not have been fully denatured by your high mash temp. It may be worth calibrating your thermometer also - 5F is not an uncommon error and yet makes a world of difference with the fairly tight tolerances of a mash schedule temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article below explains this in much more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/The_Theory_of_Mashing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Theory of Mashing&lt;/a&gt;, Homebrewtalk Wiki&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T13:58:54.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7876" CreationDate="2012-10-24T15:01:20.470" Score="0" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;So we got a can of Coopers German wheat beer kit, and decided to do 2x10 lites batches, trying slightly different recipes with each one.  We boiled up orange zest and corriander seeds and added the liquid to one of the 10 lite batches, and for the other we just added the coopers brew enhancer kit 1 instead of the sugar, to see what it was like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The step which may have messed it up:  I rehydrated all the yeast in a (sanitized) jug and added half to one and half to the other.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both OGs were similar in the 1052-1054 range, both about 22/23c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one we added the orange zest liquid went into total overdrive - bubbling maybe every 5 seconds for 2 days, and has now completely stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other one (with the brew enhancer in it and the slightly higher OG) hasn't bubbled once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping someone might have some pointers for where I went wrong - it was the same wort and year, the fermentation buckets and air locks are both the same.  Some small differences in recipe.  My guess is trying to halve the rehydrated yeast was probably a bad idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll measure both gravities tonight and update this question.  &lt;em&gt;I'm just wondering why two very similar fermentations have acted so differently!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the gravities and they were both about 1.010, so it looks like fire.eagle's advice was correct!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2651" LastEditorUserId="2651" LastEditDate="2012-10-28T21:14:14.653" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T21:14:14.653" Title="The runaway and the non starter!" Tags="|fermentation|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7875" CreationDate="2012-10-24T16:04:56.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measure the gravities of the brews. Since you said you've got them in buckets, I'm going to assume you haven't looked inside them to see if you had krausen or anything like that on top. With the buckets, it's entirely possible you didn't have a perfect seal on one of the buckets, so the CO2 escaped out somewhere besides the airlock. I know my first batch didn't bubble once, and it's because the lid wasn't perfectly tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for splitting your yeast, so long as you dissolved it completely and mixed it before you poured to make sure nothing was trying to settle down (if you left it for a while), you should be fine there. You might have underpitched a batch a little, but you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, relax and check your gravities. More than likely they've both been fermenting fine, just one found a different route to vent it's CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T16:04:56.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7871" CreationDate="2012-10-24T16:22:33.653" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I experimented many years ago with splitting a batch and priming with corn sugar, table sugar, DME, maple syrup, honey, force carbing and a couple others I can't recall.  I calculated to try to make sure all would have the same level of carbonation.  After 2 months, I held a blind tasting.  No one could distinguish one from the other or had a preference for any method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T16:22:33.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-24T16:59:24.363" Score="5" ViewCount="2091" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I bottle my beer I clean all the caps I have so I don't run out during the process.  I always have extras so I put them into a pastic baggie after they dry so I can use them when I have enough.  I just pulled these caps out and most of them have rust on them so I can use them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to prevent this or should I not even worry about cleaning the caps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2789" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T13:48:05.613" Title="Prevent Rust on Bottle Caps" Tags="|bottling|caps|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7886" CreationDate="2012-10-24T18:59:10.910" Score="3" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about growing my own hops.  From what I gather I can just plant the vines in the back yard somewhere and they grow much like grapes.  I heard it takes 2-3 years for them to grow in and the harvest to be useful.  Now for the question, which kind should I get, something that can be used in various beers preferably.  I'm sure it won't be that much either maybe useful in 1 or 2 batches.  What about climate, I'm in Colorado it's dry and lots of sun, I can have them in the shade or afternoon sun if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T20:48:31.347" Title="Grow my own hops, what kind" Tags="|hops|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7898" CreationDate="2012-10-24T19:05:38.350" Score="3" ViewCount="2456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about making beer with Licorice flavor as I like the taste of Licorice.  I'm thinking some dark beer would be a good candidate a Stout maybe or some ale.  I'm thinking some black Licorice sticks during &lt;del&gt;the fermentation&lt;/del&gt; boil and maybe Licorice Root as well.  Does anybody have experience with this ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T00:14:51.610" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T15:56:18.907" Title="Licorice flavor Beer" Tags="|flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7871" CreationDate="2012-10-24T19:29:59.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your CO2 volume will be directly affected by how fermentable your priming sugar is.  Simple sugars like table sugar or corn sugar are very fermentable, so you can use smaller amounts of them, meaning they're less likely to influence the taste.  ISTR that treacle isn't as fermentable, so you'll get lower CO2 volumes and likely a noticable flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I brewed a bourbon dubbel and primed it with maple syrup and could't taste the syrup at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T19:29:59.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7853" CreationDate="2012-10-24T20:01:32.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sixteen days sounds about right (better than the 10 days some kits recommend).  To be sure, you need to take gravity readings and get the same result for three days straight.  With a kit, though, you're usually pretty safe to just follow the directions that came with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once fermentation is done, the yeast will start to consume whatever fermentables they can get, which in most cases is some of the more complex sugars and fermentation by-products.  The longer you leave the beer in the fermenter, the more yeast and trub will drop out of solution, leaving you with a clearer beer.  Your beer should be fine for up to two months in the fermenter, so there's no hard deadline for bottling.  Of course, after you bottle you have to wait a couple of weeks for the bottles to carb up, so the longer you wait the longer it'll be until you can drink!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T20:01:32.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7878" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:56:09.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the same issue.  If the caps are rusting in the little baggie...they weren't really dry.&#xA;I leave then out on a dry paper towel overnight and that seems to get them to dry out more.&#xA;If its still a problem putting them in the oven with the light on or just the pilot running in a gas stove will certainly dry them overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T00:56:09.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="481" CreationDate="2012-10-25T09:35:12.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heavy ships can float because of the principles of buoyancy.&#xA;Hydrometers measure the specific gravity of liquids. Specific gravity is a measurement of the density of a substance compared to that of water. Density describes how densely the molecules of a substance are packed. Objects float more easily in liquids that are more dense because the more closely packed molecules support more weight. Buoyancy is determined by the amount of the force pushing an object upward in relationship to the downward force of air pressure. Liquids with higher density enhance the buoyancy of an object. Read a hydrometer where the surface of the liquid meets the stem of the hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2791" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T13:35:51.763" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T13:35:51.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7879" CreationDate="2012-10-25T12:38:51.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've also heard the 2-3 year timeline for getting a viable crop but I've also heard some people get enough for a beer in their first year. It all depends on your local conditions. As far as what type to grow, I'd do one that would work well for dry hopping/late additions. Unless you plan on sending your hops off to be analyzed for AA levels, you'll be flying blind if you use them as bittering hops. Cascade would be a good choice for hoppy American styles while Fuggle would be a good choice for more English styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T12:38:51.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-25T13:49:06.390" Score="2" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the reading I am doing suggests that adding maple syrup at just about any point to a beer is really just a waste of maple syrup, except potentially at priming.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When brewing a 'pumpkin' beer, there are likely 1000 other better ways of getting to a &lt;strong&gt;pumpkin pie&lt;/strong&gt; flavor (which is really what people are after) than adding actual pumpkin (which seems to just give you some pectins and a few gravity points).  I'm thinking I might be able to do a fake out on maple syrup as well, since at most points maple syrup will likely just ferment out (I can't really prime with it, as I will be kegging this beer...though I suppose I could add at kegging, and have the beer be extra dry prior to adding it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm trying to figure out is, could I get some of that rustic/woody notes maple syrup has from maple chips, and get the sweetness from some crystal 40/60?  This beer will be a stout (likely somewhere between FX stout and RIS).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T05:09:43.310" Title="Maple wood aging as opposed to maple syrup" Tags="|adjuncts|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7887" CreationDate="2012-10-25T14:27:51.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe in any way that maple 'wood' shares any distinct flavor qualities with maple 'syrup'. So I really don't think that by doing what you propose, you will come out with the end product you are looking for. But, to see for yourself, make a maple 'wood' tea, get that fire goin', put on your favorite Birkenstocks,  and give it some sips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I would strongly argue that the best way to get the taste of maple syrup in your brew... is to add maple syrup. I think of the use of syrup just as I would molasses or honey. By adding at least 1 pound or more, you will begin to really get the flavor you're looking for to come out in your end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The yeast may take me sugars... but the flavor I be keepin'.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  — Captain Buttersworth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2013-12-30T21:00:52.460" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T21:00:52.460" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7879" CreationDate="2012-10-25T20:48:31.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I grew Fuggle, Cascade, and Hallertauer in MI for years. I got decent yield after one year on my Cascade and Hallertauer, while the fuggle struggled consistently and eventually died off. Do some research on the climates each different cultivar likes and use that to heavily inform your decision along with what beer styles you're looking to brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2792" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T20:48:31.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7895" CreationDate="2012-10-29T22:33:45.727" Score="0" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some random reasons, I had to siphon my beer from a carboy to my bottling bucket, which doesn't have airlock or something in the lid. The fermentation was already done, so what I understand I can't have CO2 problems, or could I?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T13:32:58.920" Title="Can a Bottling Bucket explode?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-30T09:50:21.163" Score="0" ViewCount="1393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer is yes. Since we use OG and FG to determine ABV ... I would assume we could do the same with ABV and OG to determine FG, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="195" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T13:28:10.700" Title="Can I derive Final Gravity from Original Gravity and ABV?" Tags="|specific-gravity|calculations|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7897" CreationDate="2012-10-30T10:31:38.803" Score="3" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some sites calculate bitterness vs sweetness on a scale of sorts, where one side is &quot;malty sweet&quot;, and the other side is &quot;hoppy bitter&quot; (ex. &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hopville&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, to do a very basic calculation of this, what factors are involved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you determine this by simply knowing the ABV and IBU of a beer? Or would you need to also know the specific gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="195" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T23:12:04.437" Title="What factors go into calculating perceived sweetness/bitterness?" Tags="|calculations|sweetness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7891" CreationDate="2012-10-30T13:28:03.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's a simple calculation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV = (OG - FG) * 131&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV = (1.055 - 1.012) * 131&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV = (0.043) * 131 = 5.633%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to reverse it,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG = (131 * OG - ABV) / 131&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG = (131*1.055 - 5.633) / 131&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG = (138.205 - 5.633) / 131 = 1.012&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen 129 used as the scaling factor as well, which would drop the ABV to 5.547%, but for homebrewing purposes either seem ok, or split the difference and use 130...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1661" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T13:28:03.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7891" CreationDate="2012-10-30T13:28:10.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can calculate ABV using the below equation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ABV = (OG - FG) * 131&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, with the use of some Algebra, you can calculate FG using the below equation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;FG = -1*(ABV/131 - OG)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T13:28:10.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7890" CreationDate="2012-10-30T13:32:58.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the beer has finished fermenting, you do not need to be concerned with your bucket exploding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, any pressure developed in the bucket from fermentation would blow the lid off before actually exploding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T13:32:58.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7878" CreationDate="2012-10-30T13:48:05.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do clean my caps, but I do them a dozen or so at a time as I bottle, until I'm getting close to the end when I do them fewer at a time.  This way I don't end up sanitising any caps that I don't use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a small bowl I put the caps in, with a splash of StarSan to do the sanitising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1661" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T13:48:05.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7892" CreationDate="2012-10-30T18:21:27.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no calculation for sweetness.  There are no sweetness units.  Whenever I have seen this type of &quot;grading&quot; that you describe sweetness is just some sort of arbitrary lack of bitterness.  But there is no reciprocal type calculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking it a step further how do you calculate something that has the qualifier &quot;perceived&quot; in the title.  Perceived sweetness is variable person to person and not a concrete quantifiable character of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest thing you have to what you are looking for is GU:BU ratio described by Ray Daniels in Designing Great Beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T18:21:27.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7880" CreationDate="2012-10-30T21:45:01.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a honey licorice porter a couple of years ago, and it came out pretty well. I used dried licorice root at the end of the boil, which my LHBS sells. Like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/15607//Licorice_Root_2_oz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://morebeer.com/view_product/15607//Licorice_Root_2_oz&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The licorice flavor was subtle but noticeable, and pleasant against the malt base and roastiness in the porter. Here's the recipe, 5gal extract-based:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7.0 lb liquid amber malt extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.0 lb Crystal 80L malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 lb Chocolate malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 lb Black patent malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.0 lb Clover honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.0 oz Perle @ 60 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 oz Fuggles @ 30 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 oz Fuggles @ 5 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 oz Dried licorice root&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wyeast 1084&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steep grains, add extract, and boil for 60 min, adding hops as directed. At flameout stir in honey, then add licorice root in a mesh bag and let steep for 30 minutes while wort cools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG around 1.070. FG around 1.015-1.020.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastEditorUserId="1688" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T15:56:18.907" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T15:56:18.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-31T01:35:21.230" Score="0" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am preparing some beer Porter style, Are there any recommendations you could share to avoid acidity on the final product, because some time ago I added oats wafers but got bad result, the filter was capped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For you what attributes a porter should have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2801" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T18:40:39.063" Title="Porter recommendations to avoid acidity" Tags="|beer-styles|porter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7902" CreationDate="2012-10-31T10:34:17.403" Score="0" ViewCount="855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally have more beer coming out of the fermenter than fits in my kegs, so I wish to bottle the excess. Since I will be force carbonating the contents of the keg, I do not wish to prime the whole batch, just what I put into the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal solution for me would be to cook some water with a certain amount of tablesugar, and the use a syringe to take maybe 5 ml and put it into the each (1/2 l) bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is, that I don't know how to calculate the right amount of sugar to put into the water. I read somewhere (I think it was How to brew) that the right amount of sugar would be about 6 g/liter. So my 5 ml of solution should contain 6g of sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be that I am overcomplicating things, but I got curious...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main reasons for doing this are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I want to cook the sugar to sterilize it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think that using syringes makes measuring easy - and I don't want to dillute the beer more than nessessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T15:30:13.353" Title="Creating a priming solution" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|priming|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7899" CreationDate="2012-10-31T11:43:19.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am by no means an expert on Porter, but I will tell you that my dark beers got better once I understood that those very dark roasted grains (chocolate, roast barley, etc) can pull down your mash pH too low, and give off chalky, astringent, dry flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get around this, I suggest cold-steeping your dark grains separate from your mash (or steep, if you are doing extract). Soak the grains in room temp water for a few hours or up to day, and then strain and pour the liquid into the boil fairly near the end. You'll get the color of the grains, and some flavor, but not as much as if you mashed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oats in a Porter sound like a good idea, since their creaminess might help cut any acidity, but I'm not positive. Other things I know would help would be (1) low color Crystal Malts (10-60) to add some creamy caramel flavors, or (2) Malto Dextrin, which would increase the body of the beer (so don't add too much, Porter should be drinkable). Both those would cut the acidity slightly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T11:43:19.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7900" CreationDate="2012-10-31T11:53:00.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being fairly lazy myself, I would use Carbonation Tabs, if I were you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.monsterbrew.com/Prod_CarbonationTabs.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.monsterbrew.com/Prod_CarbonationTabs.cfm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just pop the right # of tabs into the bottle, then fill it up with beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern with the syringe method is that you could mistake Precision for Accuracy. By that, I mean that you will do the math to get the exact # of milliliters (or whatever) of your solution for each bottle, and it will look correct on paper, BUT this type of equation is very dependent upon predicting the VOLUME of the sugar solution. And once you start boiling in on your stove top, your ability to control that volume goes way down. If it boils down too much  or too little, your volume and sugar density of the solution will be off, resulting in too much, too weak solution, or too little, too strong a solution. If you do this, I would NOT actually let the sugar solution come to a boil on the stove top, just let it hit a bare simmer for 15min to pasteurize completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T11:53:00.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7900" CreationDate="2012-10-31T12:40:49.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of calculators for priming sugar volumes online, based on the desired volumes of CO₂, the type of sugar, &amp;amp;c.  I would find and use one of those, if only to confirm your &quot;6g&quot; figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's generally easier to dose the batch of beer rather than individual bottles.  That being said, dosing bottles with a syringe or pipette is not totally unreasonable if you take care to be precise, as Graham suggests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T12:40:49.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7880" CreationDate="2012-10-31T14:53:59.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option to steeping to attain the licorice flavors would be to prime with an anise based liqueur.  I've had success with a few fruit flavored beers and liqueur priming.  You'd want to find something with a lower abv though such as galliano/anisette as the higher test stuff like sambuca/ouzo won't have the sugar content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2436" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T14:53:59.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7900" CreationDate="2012-10-31T15:30:13.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My preferred solution (as it were) is to fill the keg first, then add the sugar solution (gently!) to the remainder in the bottling bucket and give it a (gentle!) stir around to distribute evenly, then fill the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that you don't have the problem with having reduced the solution down thereby making more concentrated, as you're adding the whole amount of sugar in bulk to the bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also used carbonation tabs, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/ingredients/ingredientsadditives/carbonation-drops.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Coopers ones&lt;/a&gt;, and they're fine if you're wanting to add multiples of 1 tablet, but a pain if you need, say 1.5 tablets in a bottle, never mind if you only need 2/3 of a tablet!  Those linked Brewers Best ones look more useful, though - wonder if they're available in the UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1661" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T15:30:13.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7907" CreationDate="2012-11-01T04:45:17.647" Score="3" ViewCount="724" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a batch of cider mead. Once fermentation was done, I put it in the fridge to let the sediment settle, and to let it clarify. After a few days, these weird bubbles formed in the sediment, along the edges of the fermentation jar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6fHRy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also notice that the sediment above is a slightly different shade than below. I have &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; had this happen before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts: The different colours in sediment are the differences between the yeast sediment and the cider sediment (yeah, some got through). I'm guessing that the bubbles are maybe caused by trapped gas, maybe fermentation wasn't as done as I thought (maybe I need a better hydrometer)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever seen anything like this? Any suggestions as to what I should do? Should I just stir it up, let it sit, and then bottle it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T08:37:24.283" Title="What should I do about this weird bubble in the sediment?" Tags="|mead|sediment|bubble|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7906" CreationDate="2012-11-01T08:37:24.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not experienced this before, but I would try to err on the safe side and siphon off everything above it, and try to leave the bubble undisturbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is gas, it will probably pop since the pressure around it decreases, but if it is liquid you might be able to leave it in peace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that it is liquid though which could have formed because the upper sediment is sealing the lower one, and the lower might have settled more, seperating from the liquid that was left around it. If that guess is correct, the chance of you rupuring the bubbles while siphoning is a little reduced, since the upper layer will have a guey consistency - like the skin on hot milk...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, the volume of the bubbles does not seem to be big, so the loss in volume should be inconsequential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T08:37:24.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7899" CreationDate="2012-11-01T18:40:39.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most of my darker beers, I am adding those darker grains at sparge, not during the main mash.  All you really want from them is the color and some roast flavor.  Its not really bumping up your gravity that much.  Everything from chocolate, to carafa, to darker crystal malts.  Add them later when you sparge with water &amp;lt;170 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T18:40:39.063" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-01T23:36:37.770" Score="0" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did &lt;strong&gt;18 liters&lt;/strong&gt; of dark strong Ale beer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A first fermentation was during a period of a week in a bottle glass&#xA;of &lt;strong&gt;20 liters.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A second fermentation was inside little bottles of 355 mL each one&lt;br&gt;&#xA;during &lt;strong&gt;3 weeks.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get $CO_2$ I added &lt;strong&gt;6 gr per liter&lt;/strong&gt; of sugar, but when I opened each beer I discovered  a considerable amount of $CO_2$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know what happened or what was the reason of that phenomena. That recipe I used it in the past and nothing like that happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you please deduce the step when I got that pollution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2801" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T23:48:44.457" Title="polluted Dark strong Ale when opened bottles" Tags="|beer-styles|co2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7910" CreationDate="2012-11-01T23:48:44.457" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What was the starting gravity and ending gravity? Did you confirm that fermentation had completed before bottling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6g/litre should give around 2.5 volumes of CO2, depending on the final temperature of the beer, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewblogger.net/index.php?page=tools&amp;amp;section=sugar&quot;&gt;this tool&lt;/a&gt;. That's about right for a Belgian ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your problem is most likely that you bottled the beer before it had finished fermenting. One week is a very short time for fermentation, especially if the beer had a high starting gravity, as I expect it did since it's a &quot;dark strong ale&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, take gravity readings on three consecutive days. If the gravity does not drop over that period, you can consider the fermentation done and bottle. Though many beers show an improvement in flavor if you leave them on the yeast for a few weeks. Generally I leave my beers alone for three weeks before thinking about bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T23:48:44.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7956" CreationDate="2012-11-02T01:57:07.793" Score="3" ViewCount="28228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to make corn beer, what are the times you would suggest for mashing?&#xA;Is there a way to make it on a home stove?&#xA;Has anyone got experience with that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend already does corn beer. I saw the process and she only used the corn to make the wort. She did not use other enzyme to break the starch. She used 4.409 lbs of corn per 12 Liters of water, afterwards she added a little amount of hop and half oz of yeast, the Temp was 158d^F. She also used 3.52 oz of mash of a special kind of mexican chili&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2801" LastEditorUserId="2801" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T01:09:56.907" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T01:43:53.630" Title="corn beer steps and suggestions using a home stove" Tags="|techniques|malt|base-malt|basement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7915" CreationDate="2012-11-02T04:19:43.887" Score="2" ViewCount="12125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a beer kit and it came with Easy Clean from LD Carlson.  At first I was under the impression that I could use it to clean &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; sanitize.  But now I'm not so sure.  It looks like it was good for both until recently. I think I may be overly-paranoid when it comes to contamination, but want to be certain.  From what I can tell, there doesn't seem to be a clear consensus out there on Easy Clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to use Easy Clean to sanitize my equipment?  I also end up with a residue after using it, is it ok to rinse tools with tap water before coming in contact with the brew? If Easy Clean isn't good for sanitization, can I use a bleach solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2670" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T17:59:40.153" Title="Tips on Using Easy Clean" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7913" CreationDate="2012-11-02T17:45:36.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of government regulations governing what can be labeled as a &quot;Sanitizer&quot;. The product may work fine as a sanitizer, but if the company has not gone through the proper government channels and had their product tested as such (and I assume, pay a massive licensing fee to the government), then they can not put that on the label. If it's a product that needs to be rinsed, you will need to rinse it with boiled (or otherwise sanitized) water. Tap water contains micro-organisms (and especially warm tap water), so if you rinse with tap water afterwords, you've forgone the sanitization step. I use Iodaphor (iodine sanitizer) which is a no-rinse sanitizer. A product like starsan would also work well. I clean using oxy-clean soap, then rinse with hot tap water and sanitize with a no rinse product. A bleach solution also works to sanitize, however you must rinse after using bleach, again with sanitized water, or you've forgone that step. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T17:45:36.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7913" CreationDate="2012-11-02T20:29:14.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the product catalog for ld carlson chemicals : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ldcarlson.com/public%20catalog/Chapter%2007.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ldcarlson.com/public%20catalog/Chapter%2007.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scroll down to 6019A, which is I believe what you have. No-rinse means it's a sanitizer, if it was just a cleaner they wouldn't call it no-rinse. I've used it many times, and it works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just dilute as it suggests and soak all of your equipment on it. Give the equipment a shake and leave the no-rinse sanitizer on there, it won't impart any flavor to the beer if it's present in small quantities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2811" LastEditorUserId="2811" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T20:35:50.663" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T20:35:50.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-02T22:16:36.133" Score="5" ViewCount="1367" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just brewed up a porter and going to be transfering into secondary tonight, I also want to put vanilla beans into the secondary. The question I have is how to make sure that the beans are sanitized correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2812" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T16:41:15.543" Title="vanilla beans in a porter" Tags="|sanitation|late-addition|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7916" CreationDate="2012-11-02T23:34:24.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling them in enough water to cover them for a few minutes should do the trick, however the results may not be as you intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest making a strong vanilla &quot;tea&quot;. Chop up all of your vanilla beans, and boil in about 1 gal of water until it tastes like you want. Strain out the beans and drop this into your secondary once it has cooled sufficiently. If you just add them directly, the flavor of the vanilla bean may not be extracted properly. Also, carbohydrates -&gt; CO2 + Ethyl Alcohol is not yeast's only metabolic pathway. Your yeast may consume other compounds in the vanilla bean, which may produce by products (flavors) that you do not expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that sounds too involved, or you don't want to add that much water to you beer, you can remove the beans after an hour and boil the solution down further, or you can use vanilla extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2811" LastEditorUserId="2811" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T23:41:01.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T23:41:01.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7920" CreationDate="2012-11-03T11:27:03.987" Score="0" ViewCount="2936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this 25l plastic fermenter which is the type not shaped like a big open bucket but with a hole at the top with a screw on lid. I left it full of water not thinking anything bad could happen to it for a few months, and I see now it has a dark mold at the bottom and other type of mold in spots on the side. I'm wondering if I could add a bleach solution to it, then empty it and add clean water and then use it again for brewing, or if it would be impossible to do without bleach being absorbed by the plastic and giving bleach off tastes in future batches etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Annoying problem is because I can't get my hand in there like a open top bucket type fermenter its almost impossible to manually scrub it etc..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastEditorUserId="2558" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T11:44:11.827" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T23:43:16.090" Title="Can I safely remove mold from plastic bottle type fermenter without bad consequences?" Tags="|fermenter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7919" CreationDate="2012-11-03T21:40:36.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's tough. You can try the following method : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/how-to-remove-mold-from-plastic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/how-to-remove-mold-from-plastic/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you can't get in there with a scrubbing brush, I suggest purchasing an angled scrubbing brush like this : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/carboy-brush.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/carboy-brush.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is convenient, it may be best to just purchase a new one. Since the vessel is not clear you may never know if you were able to extricate all of the mold properly, and a chance at ruining a batch of beer is more expensive than a new carboy, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2811" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T21:40:36.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7916" CreationDate="2012-11-04T16:18:24.133" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make a Bourbon Vanilla Imperial porter recipe that's pretty popular.  When the primary fermentation is done, I split 2 vanilla beans lengthwise and scrape put all the &quot;gunk&quot; inside.  I chop the pods themselves into 2-3 in. long pieces then add the &quot;gunk&quot; and pods to a secondary fermenter and rack the beer onto it.  Start tasting it after about 5 days.  When it reaches a bit more than the level of vanilaa you want, rack it off the vanilla and package.  You want to atart with a bit more vanilla flavor than you think you want bcause it starts to fade fairly quickly.  Between the alcohol and low pH of the beer, you'll be fine with no further sanitation of the beans.  I've doen it dozens of times and never had a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T16:18:24.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7919" CreationDate="2012-11-05T01:17:39.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend using it again. Plastic is fairly porous, at least compared to glass or stainless steel. It may also have tiny, microscopic scratches from past usage. There is no way to effectively sanitize the millions of tiny pores and scratches in the plastic which most certainly contain mold spores. Your bleach solution will not be able to penetrate into the pores, as well, you can not clean these areas mechanically (with a brush or scrub pad). Although it may be possible to &quot;clean&quot; a moldy bucket for something like storing dog food, or toys. It will never be sanitary enough for you to brew with, and most certainly for you to ferment in. I strongly recommend that you recycle the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T01:17:39.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7925" CreationDate="2012-11-05T03:19:47.967" Score="5" ViewCount="4046" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have the original gravity and final gravity of my hard cider (as measured by my hydrometer), do I determine the ABV using the same formula I would for beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2802" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T10:51:23.857" Title="Can I find the ABV of Cider using Original and Final Gravity" Tags="|cider|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7924" CreationDate="2012-11-05T03:35:20.960" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, sugar is sugar and yeast convert sugar to alcohol just the same in beer as in cider.  (OG - FG) * .131 (or .135 or whatever).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T03:35:20.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-05T16:29:16.297" Score="2" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a chest freezer that I want to use to control fermentation temperature, that I'm hoping to use to with two five gallon beer batches. Unfortunately, the bottom of the freezer has two levels, making it impossible to load two round carboys into the freezer at the same time. There is plenty of space for the beer volume if I can get a carboy of the proper dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is is possible to a make a custom carboy shaped to use the space more efficiently? Can plastic sheets of the same type used in carboy buckets be purchased easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1719" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T13:33:00.873" Title="Building Custom Sized Carboys" Tags="|carboy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7927" CreationDate="2012-11-05T16:38:33.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any food-grade container can be used as a fermenter, so yes you can build/buy whatever shape you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-12-12T14:43:58.723" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T14:43:58.723" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7916" CreationDate="2012-11-05T16:41:15.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;no need to sanitize/clean the beans. just give it a good rinse if it's dirty. there is enough alcohol in the porter to prevent infection. I've done this numerous times with excellent results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use 1 whole vanilla bean, split length wise to get the goodness infused. works every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T16:41:15.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7945" CreationDate="2012-11-06T14:40:35.700" Score="4" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just read an article about harvesting yeast (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/entries/yeast-harvesting-novel-approach.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/entries/yeast-harvesting-novel-approach.html&lt;/a&gt;). The author talks about making a starter and taking a part of the starter and store it in the fridge for the next brewing. I was thinking about it and came up with a couple of questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth doing?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;would it be better to split the yeast into multiple containers and use one at a time, keeping the others sealed to prevent contamination or should I rather make a bigger starter every time and store some of it again?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How often could I repeat the process without loosing effectiveness? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of improving this method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T19:20:45.850" Title="Yeast harvesting" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7927" CreationDate="2012-11-06T16:33:06.633" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd try making a collar for your freezer lid to raise it and make room for your fermenter.  Far easier and more realistic than trying to build a fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T16:33:06.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-06T19:42:11.200" Score="3" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed an Imperial Stout with some coffee additions. While I didn't boil the coffee for long (warm steeped 3oz beans and pitched grounds and two cups of brew at flameout), it did lend some unpleasant bitterness to the beer. Unlike hop bitterness, this isn't as pleasing to the tongue. The flavor isn't awful--the beer is still drinkable--but I'm wondering if I should expect it to fade with age. I just completed a 13 day primary, and ended up pretty close to FG. I kegged the beer, and have set it aside to age at 66 degrees (F) for up to a month. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the coffee bitterness fade during that time, or should I consign this beer to the &quot;only bring it out after the guests have had a few&quot; shelf?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2232" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T13:25:25.807" Title="Will bitterness from a flameout coffee addition fade with age?" Tags="|aging|stout|bitterness|coffee|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7950" CreationDate="2012-11-07T04:18:44.317" Score="7" ViewCount="40126" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my second batch in a row where I've seen primary go for over two weeks.  From my understanding, primary fermentation for an ale shouldn't take more than a couple of days (4-5 at most I believe).  As of tonight, it is still bubbling maybe once an hour, but it is definitely still fermenting.  When brewed, I used a yeast starter to increase the cell count, letting it set for approximately 20 hours before adding it to the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without further knowledge, I would guess I should let it complete no matter how long it takes, allow the diacetyl rest to finish, and then rack it, but this is at most, and uneducated guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as temperatures, it's been inconsistent.  I don't have any method of temperature control past setting the thermostat of my place, and due to having guests over in the fall season who can not understand or appreciate the importance of regulating temperatures when it comes to brewing, I've had the thermostat set anywhere between 68 degrees Fahrenheit to 74.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what are the consequences for having it ferment this long? I've been told it's going to be dry, but past that, I don't know what I'm in for.  Am I going to get a buttery flavor from the warm fermentation temperatures?  Should I aim for the final gravity and just rack it to secondary?  Should I let it go until days after it stops fermenting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T12:48:16.447" Title="Primary fermentation is still bubbling after 2 weeks. What are the consequences?" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5406" CreationDate="2012-11-07T09:39:54.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 250 gr of Lactose to one container of ginger beer brewing mix and I get a sweet drink of ginger beer with no aftertaste, but I don't know if lactose is suitable for diabetics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2826" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T09:39:54.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7933" CreationDate="2012-11-07T12:32:04.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will get fruity flavours (particularly green apple), from a warm ferment (source: brewing in Australia in summer without temp control).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start to test the gravity, if the SG is within the expected attenuation for the yeast (if you are not sure what that is for the yeast you used, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixA.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1.005 - 1.015 is the ballpark&lt;/a&gt;) and does not move for a couple of days, then your good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, the ongoing bubbling may just be dissolved CO2 coming out of solution.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2827" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T12:32:04.680" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7930" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:08:24.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're talking about brewing a &quot;small beer&quot; (1.020-1.030 OG) and canning it! I do this often with the final run off from my mash tun. Usually a 1.020 wort, I boil it for a while without any additions, then jar it and put the jars in my pressure cooker with the lids on loosely. Boil the pressure cooker for 15 min or so and the wort has been sterilized in the jars. Screw the lids on tight while the jars are still hot and as they cool a vacuum will form inside, pulling in the lid for a quick quality control check. I can starters worts in 1L and 250ml jars. Most starters I make are in increments of 1L. I use the smaller canned worts (250ml) to make up culture petri dishes and homemade slants. Once I've opened a starter jar, I will either use everything in it, or dump the remainder. I wouldn't save a container of wort that has not been sterilized, for very long. It's not worth the risk!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T14:08:24.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7954" CreationDate="2012-11-07T15:46:36.380" Score="0" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a raspberry flavor syrup, the ones used in cappuccinos, and I was wondering if I could add a little in the last minutes boiling. Anyone have experience with this sort of syrups? They have a god taste but a lot of corn syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastEditorUserId="2518" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T19:41:30.257" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T19:24:14.317" Title="Could I add flavored Cappuccino syrup?" Tags="|extract|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7932" CreationDate="2012-11-07T16:21:40.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will mellow some, but not much.  I find that when I make a coffee beer recipe I have to do several test batches to get the level of hop bittering correct in order to complement the coffee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T16:21:40.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7937" CreationDate="2012-11-07T16:37:55.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be suspect of these. Check the ingredient list. Corn syrup is not so bad, but if there's a lot of preservatives or ANYTHING with dairy or oil, then I wouldnt use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T16:37:55.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7937" CreationDate="2012-11-07T18:45:25.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't add anything to the boil if you want to retain the maximum amount of flavor and aroma.  Add it post fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T18:45:25.070" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7932" CreationDate="2012-11-08T00:33:59.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine said he had cold brewed coffee using a french press. This makes it less bitter and you still get a lot of the good coffee flavors [http://www.thenourishinggourmet.com/2012/05/how-to-cold-brew-coffee.html]. Still will have to adjust the overall amount you add though and keep the balance with the hops. His beer he made this way turned out pretty damn good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T00:33:59.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2706" CreationDate="2012-11-08T04:08:34.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warning: Do Not use Fleishmanns or any other major brand of bread yeast. Ive conducted many experiments in years past when brewing supply runs were day trips across los angeles. Even &quot;organic yeast&quot; grown in mollasses. I may have gotten perfect fermentation profiles out of ' em, but they would always leave an annoying (usually  annoyin) taste means a single chemical. I actally found a brand at Albertsons for  &quot;whole grain bread&quot; from something -Mills . Really english ale character. Floctuated really strong&#xA;.sticky yeast. When yeast settled out quickly. Barley any yeast taste. Actually want to do a side by side soon. Trying to create a house strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2829" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T04:08:34.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-08T09:48:53.057" Score="2" ViewCount="1230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottled and capped my second batch of beer in 12 oz glass bottles and realized afterward I'd added far too little priming sugar. Recipe called for 3/4 teaspoon per bottle, and I only used heaping 1/8 teaspoons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this batch a lost cause, or can it be salvaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2831" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T09:17:53.483" Title="Boneheaded Noob Move - Not enough priming sugar" Tags="|bottling|priming|sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2012-11-08T13:33:10.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, since you know how much sugar you added at first, you can add enough to cover the rest. I'd just take them out, uncap, add 5/8 teaspoons of sugar, recap, and let carb up again. You might even be alright to add the full 3/4 teaspoons since you will lose a little co2 from opening the bottles up. I don't know if adding the sugar will cause it to foam at all, either. It's better to give it a try and hope for the best than to dump it and never know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T13:33:10.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7930" CreationDate="2012-11-08T19:16:31.420" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I have saved tons of money by growing my own yeast. It just takes a little planning and time. Slants or glycol storage are going to be your best bet. Get a pressure cooker to acts as a makeshift auto-clave for sterilization. With some yeasts coming in at $6-$9 a vial, this will help you get the most out of that money. In fact I have pulled proprietary yeast and grew it in my house. I don't know the price you can put on that, but hey i have special yeast now. Initial investment will be roughly: 50ml Flask, 500ml Flask, 2000ml Flask, inoculation loop, agar, DME, alcohol lamp or just your stove, auto-claveable slants or pre-made malt-agar slants. So with a little investment, you can start saving money on your yeast. Look at question 3.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Always work near an open flame! You will want that updraft to keep any bugs out of your harvest. It also gives you easy access to sterilize equipment. If you are going to pull yeast from a starter: Take out a slant from a star-san bath and carefully remove the lid near the flame. Place the cap back in the star-san. Next hold the lip of the slant to the flame to sterilize, but don't melt the malt-agar. Take a inoculation loop, and hold it in the flame until red. Pull the loop away and allow it to cool for a few seconds. Stick the inoculation loop into your starter and swirl the loop around the starter. (Again still working by the flame) Take the loop out of the starter, (you don't need to see anything on the loop, there is yeast on there) and rub the loop in a zig-zag motion on the malt-agar inside. Stay away from the sides of the tube, try to stay mostly in the middle. Remove the cap from star-san and screw on tightly. If paranoid, wrap electrical tape around the cap. Place in a cool dark place for 3-4 days. Check on the slants for mold and yeast after the 3-4 days. Throw away any infected cultures, just not worth it. The goal will be to see 2-5 separate little white dots. These will be single yeast cell colonies, which is awesome for QC on your beer. If there are streaks, or connecting colonies that is fine too. That just means they are multi-cell colonies, and will just increase the chance for yeast flavor change over generations. If there is yeast growing, open the lid near flame to &quot;burp&quot; the slant. (yes the yeast will still give off CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;). Reseal and let sit for a few more days, and then put the slants into your fridge. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are ready to get a starter going for a brew day, you will need to start about a week or so ahead of time. Boil up some DME and put about 25ml of it into a sterilized 50ml flask. (remember work by flame) Take your selected yeast slant, give it a dunk in star-san, and open the cap near the flame. Hold the lip to the flame just to kill anything at the end. Sterilize your inoculation loop, and let it cool. Swipe the loop over ONE of the single cell colonies, not all, and swirl the loop in the 25ml of wort. Cover and place in a cool place, swirling every once in a while for 2 days. If it's a multi-cell colony, just get a good swipe. After the 2 days you should start to see some yeast at the bottom of the flask. Prepare the 500ml flask with 150ml or fresh wort, and dump the 25ml flask into the 500ml flask. Again store for 2-3 days, swirling or putting the flask on a stir plate. Optional but recommended for a good healthy yeast, add some fresh wort to the 500ml flask after the few days bringing it up to around 400ml. Sit for 2 more days. Now it's time to make your starter. I will make a 1.4L starter, and dump the contents of the 400ml into the 2L flask. Set it on a stir plate, and let it go until the brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brings me to the last question. If you have multi-cell colonies, you can re-harvest 4-5 times getting roughly the same result, but it will mutate into a house yeast. Which is fine, and you can keep using that for more generations, but it will no longer be WLP500. Similar yes, but not the same as the generations move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However a single-cell colony will last for a long time. Since you are pulling yeast from a single mother cell, you have the possibility of less mutation. Say you have a 3 single cell slant. You pull colony #1 from Slant #1 the first beer you make. Do another slant of colony #1, if it's bad, and you know it was the yeast and not another factor. Destroy the slant. If it's good, keep the slant. Do this with the other 2 colonies in Slant #1. So if you can re-use yeast 3-5 times, and you have 3-5 single cell colonies each time you pull from a single cell.... Well that is a lot of math, but as long as you treat it right. You wont be buying yeast of that strain anymore. I try to maintain a neutral yeast, high gravity, a Belgian, an English style, and what ever bottles I may want. Too many strains and it can get bad. So start slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also pull yeast from your beers after fermentation, from your carboy, but that requires washing the yeast, and a few more steps that I just don't think are worth it. So I always just pull from the starter going into the beer, and make notes on the yeast after that beer is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps, hit me up if you have any questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T19:20:45.850" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T19:20:45.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7621" CreationDate="2012-11-08T19:38:31.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be a few things, but I think it may be one or all of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bavarian Lager yeast can produce citrusy flavors over time. Some of the Marzens out there that I have found, actually contain a little of citrus. This was probably do more to temp control, but I would fret that much since you were going for a steam beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops! Depending on the hops used, I know I am probably preaching to the choir, but hops in certain quantities or varitals will give off citrus more than floral or bitter. Seeing that you dry hopped the beer for several days put this on my radar. I have used NB hops with cascade and got a heavy citrus pale ale before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kegging, not worried about the force carb, I assumed the keg was well cleaned. The transport is something though. When you say quite a ways, do you mean San Francisco to LA, or like across town? Well the sun cant skunk your beer in a keg, the heat in a car/from the sun can change the flavor. The pressure changes, heat, and sloshing of the beer can do some interesting things. This can reactivate and stress any yeast left, making them give off those esters. Heat affects lupulins chemical structure. This is how we are able to change hop addition times, to change the beers complexity. If this is happening in the keg, this could be the cause of the citrus as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this lemon can be 1 of the above, a combo, all, or none. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cant really tell you more from there, but this could also be that each one added a little citrus, and the combination of all of them together just made the lemon pronounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helped, cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T19:38:31.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7947" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7948" CreationDate="2012-11-08T19:51:32.690" Score="2" ViewCount="1258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to brew the Brewers Best Continental Pilsner with the given equipment and parameters that I have, which is not much. My basement is averaging 40-45°F (4-7°C) degrees which I think should be ok for the secondary / lagering phase. But my brew closet, where I ferment, averages 65°F (18°C). If I'm set on brewing this kit, should I do the primary in the 65°F (18°C) closet or the 40-45°F (4-7°C) basement, and are there any things I can do to help out. I'm not ready to buy a temperature control system, I am not able to do any type of ice water system that requires daily monitoring. I need to set it and forget it. I plan on rehydrating the yeast that comes with the kit. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2834" LastEditorUserId="3022" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T00:55:47.203" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T00:47:22.617" Title="Will this Pilsner technique work?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|lagering|pilsner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7947" CreationDate="2012-11-08T21:44:02.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put it in the basement the entire time. As we move towards winter, your basement should get cooler and that will help with the lagering. The optimal temp would be 50-55 °F, but you can run it a little cooler. The yeast will lag a bit and it just may need a blanket wrapped around it to get started, but it should ferment out fine in the end. As the fermentation process begins, the yeast should bring the beer up to that 50 °f range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So set it and forget it? I would just throw it in the basement and wrap a blanket it around it. Should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T16:08:29.330" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T16:08:29.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7461" CreationDate="2012-11-08T22:21:08.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Humming is normal, dont worry about that. Nearly everything hums on my 6 tap sanke system. Its just how the gas get squeezed through manifolds, valve, and seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to the second question. There are a few things that could cause this. I am going to assume the kegs are 2 different styles of beer from the same brewery, not just 2 kegs of the same beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that a full body beer and/or a high ABV beer I need to carbonate at a higher than the desired 2.8 volumes to achieve the same perceived carbonation. So this type of beer may seem either flat or super carbonated depending on how it was carbonated. Also the temperature the brewery carbonated the beer at. However this is just something I wanted to throw out. I dont think this is the problem, though it could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time you need resistance in your beer lines in order to keep the CO2 in solution. This is achieved by tubing diameter and the length of the beer line. Beer lines that are not insulated will also affect the CO2 in the beer. A warmer line would cause more CO2 to come out of suspension and force the beer out quicker and you end up with a pint of head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer line resistance can be calculated below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refer to this link for the full formula: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/07/18/getting-a-good-pour-kegged-beer-co2-line-length-and-pressure/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/07/18/getting-a-good-pour-kegged-beer-co2-line-length-and-pressure/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for a quick look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;L = (P -(H x .5) – 1 ) / R&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where:&#xA;L = length of beer line in feet&#xA;P = pressure set of regulator&#xA;H = total height from center of keg to faucet in feet&#xA;R = resistance of the line from the following table&#xA;1 = residual pressure remaining at faucet (this can be increased to 2 if you need to increase pressure to increase dispense rate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Line Type:   Resistance:&#xA;3/8” OD stainless beverage tubing   .2&#xA;5/16” OD stainless beverage tubing  .5&#xA;1/4” OD stainless beverage tubing   2&#xA;3/8” ID plastic beer line   .11&#xA;5/16” ID plastic beer line  .17&#xA;1/4” ID plastic beer line   .7&#xA;3/16” ID plastic beer line  2.7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, depending on your line diameter, length of tube, and the beer's carbonation volume. You could end up with a gusher or a trickle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final thought. I have had kegs of Guinness that just trickle out. Even at &gt;50 PSI. We are all human and sometimes the beer just doesn't carb like we thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T22:21:08.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7933" CreationDate="2012-11-08T22:49:47.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ongoing bubbling is just dissolved CO2 coming out of solution. -CamM (changed may to is)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is why its still bubbling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I may be preaching to the choir, I just want to throw these out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dryness will depend on your mash temps mainly, and any sugar additions that might have gone in to the wort. It is much harder for the yeast to munch on those the longer chain sugars, and they usually go dormant before they get to munch on them. That is unless you throw distillers yeast in there. :-P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a quick sum up on mash, if you mashed higher, your wort will have more unfermentable dextrines, then if you mashed lower, which will produce more fermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For DME/LME you dont really have as much control over the sugars in your wort. This really depends on the DME/LME that you are using. If you are using extra light DME, I would assume its was a lower temp mash vs an amber DME or golden DME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those temp swings.... meh, it all depends on your yeast. Usually higher temps produce esters, which are the fruity flavors CamM was talking about. If CamM is getting green apples, that could also be Acetaldehyde in the beer. Not saying that is the case CamM, just pointing out stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other problem I could see at higher temps would be higher level alcohols. That is the hot alcoholic taste that comes with some booze. Though assuming your yeast wasn't a lager, I wouldn't worry about this too much. This can diminish with age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Esters will also diminish if you age the beer longer. So if it tastes fruity and you dont like it, just let it sit longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Butter flavor comes from the chemical Diacetyl. This also imparts a slippery like mouthfeel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Diacetyl is produced during fermentation as a byproduct of valine synthesis, when yeast produces α-acetolactate, which escapes the cell and is spontaneously decarboxylated into diacetyl. The yeast then absorbs the diacetyl, and reduces the ketone groups to form acetoin and 2,3-butanediol, relatively flavorless compounds.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Beer sometimes undergoes a &quot;diacetyl rest&quot;, in which its temperature is raised slightly for two or three days after fermentation is complete, to allow the yeast to absorb the diacetyl it produced earlier in the fermentation cycle.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually that wont be a problem, but I think you should be safe from diacetyl, well depending on the yeast and style you were going for. Some yeasts give off more of the chemical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check gravity and rack it, the FG is not going to drop anymore. Again this depends on some factors, like yeast, style, and OG. Chances are the yeast just hit its attenuation mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, the beer is no longer fermenting, no need to wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T22:49:47.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7892" CreationDate="2012-11-08T23:12:04.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just going to throw this in a well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree perceived is hard to really calculate from person to person. It is simply that the more non-fermentable dextrines that are in your wort, the perceived bitterness will be lower. 80IBUs suddenly tastes like 20-30IBUs. Same goes for the other side, if the beer is dry and hoppy. 80IBUs may seem like 110IBUs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens a lot in BJCP competitions. While the minimum IBUs for a IIPA is 60IBUs, no one is going to get a good score with that low of IBUs on a IIPA. This is simply because the IBUs are not pronounced enough for the other guidelines in the IIPA category. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now that that is out of the way, let me talk about your actual question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I take 45lbs of grain: 40lbs of 2 row, 2lbs carapils, 3lbs belgian candied sugar for a 5 gallon, mash at 144^dF for 1.5 hours. Boil 90min and add 2oz Cascade at 90min. Ferment slightly colder than suggested on a Ultra High Gravity yeast. Now I have a 17% barley wine with maybe 20IBUs that is going to be bone dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I take the same beer: 45lbs of grain: 40lbs of 2 row, 2lbs carapils, 3lbs belgian candied sugar for a 5 gallon, mash at 154^dF for 1.5 hours. Boil 90min and add 2oz Cascade at 90min. Ferment at suggested temp on a Ultra High Gravity yeast. Now I have a 17% barley wine with maybe 20IBUs that is going to be a malt bomb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need to know a few things to figure out which side of malt or hop bomb you are going to get. Of course, that second beer with 20IBUs is not even going to taste like hops are in it and the first will have a little more of the bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T23:12:04.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7953" CreationDate="2012-11-09T04:39:19.390" Score="0" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several questions about adding coffee, but the best results always seem to result from adding the coffee at secondary fermentation. I simply don't have a second vessel so this is not an option. So I'd be adding it at primary, and I've read that this will be subpar because the primary will blow off a lot of the coffee aroma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option is to add some cold brewed coffee right about at bottling time. But so far my results with adding flavor extracts at bottling time have been mediocre. The taste is usually front-loaded, and in fact mostly just aroma and doesn't seem present in the beer. My intuition is that infusing specialty ingredients earlier makes for a fuller taste, and that is what I want from this beer. But I don't want to sacrifice aroma, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have an idea: What if I added some coffee at the start of primary for a fuller flavor, and then added some more at bottling for aroma? I think it might work because people use a similar approach with hops (add some at the beginning of the boil for flavor and some at the end for aroma). Am I completely crazy or could this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2836" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T13:45:59.057" Title="Adding coffee without secondary" Tags="|primary|primary-fermentation|coffee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7952" CreationDate="2012-11-09T13:45:59.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try starting in the mash or specialty grain to add your coffee flavor. Add some roasted barley to impart that coffee flavor right away. This has given me a good coffee base on many of my brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, cold extract your coffee using the following technique from &lt;em&gt;Radical Brewing&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is a way of getting very smooth coffee flavor to add to your&#xA;  beer. Add 0.5 lb (0.45 kg) ground coffee to 24 ounces of cold filtered&#xA;  water in a sanitized container. Allow this to sit in the refrigerator&#xA;  for 24 hours, then run the mixture through a coffee filter. All or&#xA;  part of this extract… may be added to your stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when do you add the coffee? While secondary is the best place, but like you said in your post, that is not an option. Flameout is an option though. Add some of the cold extracted coffee during flameout or whirlpool. Depending on how much coffee you want in the beer, you can adjust how much you want to pour in. I start with pouring roughy half of the cold extract into the boil kettle. You can always add more later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the above is great for taste, you still want that fresh pot of coffee aroma. I stopped doing secondary fermentation on all of my beers, and I wish I could find the article that got me to stop secondary. Since I keg all of my beers, I never worried about clarity. I just chilled the beer, and dumped the first pint. I also dont mind the odd floaty occasionally showing up in my beer. I found most of my beer way coming out pretty clear from primary, so I stopped secondary all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing with this method is when to add the coffee (or hops) to primary. I have experimented with this technique a lot, and I have found that adding the &quot;aroma additions&quot; is perfect right after high krausen. The fermentation has slowed enough at that time to not cause your additions to be blown out or agitated enough so the oils dont mingle with the beer. At this step, add 2-4oz of fresh ground coffee beans. Coffee loses its oils and aroma very quickly after its ground. So wait till the very last minute to grind the coffee. Coarse to drip grind would be fine for this application. While this will add aroma to the beer, it will also add more coffee flavor, since it is essentially being cold extracted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this all depends on how much coffee flavor you want. So you will need to experiment to your taste preference. The nice thing is that you can always add more of the leftover cold extracted coffee from flameout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, coffee flavor and aroma will go down with age. So if its too much at first, let it sit for a while. You must be patient with beer. :-D &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reference:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.1stincoffee.com/howtomakeapotofcoffee.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.1stincoffee.com/howtomakeapotofcoffee.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T13:45:59.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7937" CreationDate="2012-11-09T16:41:58.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered using real raspberries? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a good recipe online... here is a quote and the link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I normally use about 3 lbs of fresh raspberries for a five gallon batch. You can buy them fresh in late summer just about anywhere but I like produce stores. They usually have the best prices and the freshest inventory. Grocery stores are usually higher priced. I like fresh but frozen will also work, if you miss the season. I've used more but as I keep piling up those six ounce containers, little dollar signs start spinning in my head. If you are in a place where they grow raspberries they might be cheaper. Black ones will give a more distinctive color but the flavor is about the same either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/raspberry-ale-55316/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Raspberry Ale&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2838" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T19:24:14.317" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T19:24:14.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7924" CreationDate="2012-11-09T16:44:02.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use this ABV calculator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rooftopbrew.net/abv.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rooftopbrew.net/abv.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;put your numbers in and bobs your uncle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2838" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T16:44:02.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7912" CreationDate="2012-11-09T19:33:32.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Tobias said, corn is made mostly of starch and lack any enzymes which can convert the starch to fermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are asking for stove top, I am going to assume DME/LME and the corn will just be your adjunct. However, if you are just going for corn, you will just need a lot of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So back to your question! Yes, you can does this on stove top, and I suggest the Brew In A Bag method (BIAB). Get one of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/15688//Bag_-_8_in_x_15_in_Medium_Grain_Bag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grain Bags&lt;/a&gt;, but one big enough to fill the pot you will be mashing in. If you have a all metal oven capable pot, this will be easier as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To break down the corn starches into sugars, you will need to gelatinize the starches performing a Cereal mash and then you will need Amylase Enzyme to convert the starches into sugars. Easiest way to get that is to also mash a grain that is high in amylase, either domestic 2-row or domestic 6-row. For a corn beer either is fine, but styles lean ale 2-row and lager 6-row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much grain do I need? You will need 50% of total corn weight in grain. So 5lbs of corn you will need 2.5lbs of 6-row + the grain for your cereal mash. See below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much grain do you need for the cereal mash? Aim for 20% of the total corn weight. So if you plan to mash 5lbs of corn, get 1lb of domestic 6-row this step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may skip the Cereal Mash if you get Flaked Maze. You can pick it up at a homebrew shop and it just makes things a bit easier for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about the corn? You can use fresh corn, and all you really need to do is cut it off the cob and give it a good squish. Dry corn needs to be milled, a Corona/Cereal Mill can usually handle that, but a homebrew shop mill would be better. Remember to mill your grain as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Cereal Mash&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat up 2qts of water per pound of corn/grain going into the cereal mash to 158d^F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your corn and 20% grain and throw it all into the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steep for 15 minutes at this temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then bring the cereal mash up to a gentle boil for 20-30 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stir the cereal mash constantly so it does not scorch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cereal mash is done when the mash breaks down and coats the back of your spoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Mash&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your pot, and fill it up with 2qt per 1lb of corn/grain you are going to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fill the grain bag with your grain and cereal mash and place it in the pot. Heat it up to 140d^F for an 30min-hour depending on how dry you want the beer to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raise the temp to 150d^F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cover and maintain the temp for an hour. I have had to wait 1.5 hours before, just because there was so much startch, and not enough amylase. Just depends on how big you want to go ABV wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raise the temp again to 168d^F for 5minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a gravity reading to see where you are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a oven, you can set the oven for the desired temp and put the entire pot in there for each step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the mash is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Uncover and swirl the bag around the wort for a minute or two.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then lift the bag out and let it drain into the pot. Dont squeeze the bag or you will get tannins and lots of protein.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put the bag back in the pot. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat steps 1-3 three to five times, on the last time just let the bag drain and then throw it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Boil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point add your DME/LME in to the pot if you have any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil for 90min at a vigorous boil. This is especially important with this kind of beer to avoid dimethyl sulfide (DMS)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a good neutral hop like Saaz and Hallertau and aim for 10-15IBUs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick a lager yeast of your choice and let it go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;USING ONLY CORN TO PRODUCE ENZYME&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is, YES and NO and it depends on the path you take when fermenting corn. There are several things that must be addressed. I too had mixed understandings throughout the years. Only recently have I come to have a better understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A dry, mature kernel of corn, that has not been sprouted, contains a &quot;starch sac&quot; called endosperm and the embryo. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the embryo to develop (germinate .... sprout), the embryo must have food in the form of simple sugar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The only way for the embryo to sprout into a plant is for the starch in the kernel to be converted to sugar and this takes enzymes (malt). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dry, mature corn (shelled or dry and still on the cob) contains no enzymes which are required to convert starch to sugar but dry mature corn possesses the ability to make its own enzyme under proper conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An enzyme is a protein that nature has designed. An enzyme is an organic catalyst that drastically accelerate a chemical reaction without ever being consumed during the reaction. An organic catalyst differs from an inorganic catalyst in various ways but the following sentence is only important to understand. An organic enzyme is a protein, and because a protein is heat sensitive, not too much heat can be used when converting starch to sugar or you WILL destroy your enzyme and conversion will immediately slow to a crawl. Hence, when converting starch to sugar, care must be taken not to exceed 150F. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is where &quot;the tree forks&quot; and often confuses individuals when addressing the issue of fermenting corn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Let's start with fermenting cracked corn&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cracked corn is dry, mature kernel corn that has been cracked into 6 or 8 pieces. For example &quot;chicken scratch&quot; is cracked corn. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vast majority of cracked corn (by weight) is starch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starch cannot be &quot;eaten&quot; by the type of yeast we use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starch is long repeating chains of simple sugars that are connected chemically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before yeast can &quot;eat&quot; the simple sugars found in starch, the connecting chemical bonds of simple sugars that create starch must be broken in order to release all available simple sugar molecules for consumption by yeast. This is often called &quot;conversion&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before this converting process begins, corn (or even ground corn meal) must be gelatinized, i.e. cooked to soften the corn to a gelatin consistency. This will provide a greater surface area for enzymes to react and speed the process of conversion. It is important to note that starch does not dissolve in water therefore starch cannot be broken down into simple sugars by simply attempting to dissolve corn meal, cracked corn, or corn starch in water (be it hot or cold).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE&lt;/em&gt; Cooking corn meal alone does not convert starch to sugar. Cooking will, however, cause number and size of highly organized crystalline starch regions to decrease leading to random, unorganized crystalline regions of starch. Broken hydrogen bonds create space in the crystalline structure thus allowing water to enter the space created by hydrolysis which in turn results in starch gelatinization. In no way has this converted polysaccharides to simple sugars but gelatinization improves the availability of starch for amylase hydrolysis (break down of available starch to simple sugar in the presence of an appropriate enzyme).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once cracked corn (or corn meal) has been cooked (gelatinized) this &quot;gelatinous mess&quot; is ready for conversion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As previously stated, conversion takes place in the presence of enzymes. Starches cannot be broken down to sugar without enzymes. If you choose to use grain as malt (little enzyme factories) rather than &quot;store bought stuff&quot; then you must prepare the grain and turn each kernel into an &quot;enzyme factory&quot;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Malt is best produced using Barley because it contains many different enzymes that will convert starch to sugar but for the sake of answering the question I will stick with corn. By soaking or wetting shelled corn for several days, each kernel will begin to swell. Soaking or wetting fools each kernel into believing that it's growing season.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under the right conditions (water, warmth, and light) the miracle of life begins. Miraculously, Mother Nature devised a marvelous but complicated means for the tiny embryo to burst forth into life. Remember, I stated earlier that the tiny corn embryo needs simple sugars to develop and grow but all the sugar that's contained in the kernel is bound up as starch. The embryo cannot survive without food (simple sugar) and will surely die. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So, in the presence of all the right conditions, the little embryo begins to manufacture enzymes that leak into the starch sac and break down the starch to sugar so it will have the energy to grow and poke it head through the soil. Once the embryo grows into a young plant and makes it to the surface, all the starch in the kernel will have been converted and consumed and sunlight and nutrients in the soil and water will provide for the plant's remaining days on earth. The umbilical chord is severed when the plant makes it to the surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now, what we want to do is capture the manufacture of enzymes in the kernel just at the right time thus capitalizing on the maximum enzyme level. If you wait too long, the embryo will have used all enzymes and starches to break free of its shell. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When little &quot;roots&quot; develop at the end of each kernel of corn (approximately 1/4&quot; long) enzyme levels are said to have reached the maximum level. It is at this time you wash the &quot;sprouting corn&quot;, remove the little roots and &quot;hair&quot;, grind the corn and toss it into your pot that contains gelatinized starch (cooked cracked corn or corn meal). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the ground malt is added to your cooked corn, you will need to elevate the temperature of your mix to between 140F and 150F degrees. Conversely, if the malt is ready and you have just finished cooking the corn, then lower the temperature of the cooked corn to 140F to 150F degrees before adding the malt. Remember, enzymes are a protein and can be easily destroyed by heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After holding the mixture's temperature between 140F and 150F for 40 to 60 minutes, conversion from starch to sugar should be complete. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Conversion can be verified by removing a small amount of &quot;converted mix&quot; and placing it on a saucer and adding a drop of iodine. If starch is still present the sample will turn blue and the mix will require a little more heating time. If conversion is complete there will be no blue color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming conversion is complete, lower the temperature of the mix to around 80F degrees and toss in the yeast. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fermenting sprouted corn&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sprouted corn will ferment if you stop germination at the appropriate time. Remember, you want to keep the embryo from eating all the sugar that has been converted. If you allow the sprouts to get longer than the kernel of corn or greater that 1/4&quot;, then you are losing sugar which is what the yeast needs in order to make ETOH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your sack(s) of corn has/have begun to sprout, wash the corn, remove roots &amp;amp; hair, and grind into a mush. Heat the mush for 40 to 60 minutes between 140F and 150F, cool to 80F to 85F degrees and then add yeast and allow to ferment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE&lt;/em&gt;: The reason you heat the malt and corn mix to between 140F and 150F degrees is to speed up the chemical conversion from starch to sugar in the presence of a catalyst. In theory, if you did not use heat, the reaction would still go to completion ...... but it would take much longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am about to say is purely academic and for your personal edification. With regard to organic catalyst or inorganic catalyst, I've already stated that a catalyst is used to accelerate a chemical reaction and the catalyst is not consumed during a chemical reaction. This means that as soon as the catalyst has been used to accelerate and complete a chemical reaction, it is released to be used again and again and again. So sometimes not much catalyst is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be interesting to point out that there is an unspoken truism in the above paragraph. Since a catalyst is used to accelerate a chemical reaction, then it's reasonable to assume that in the absence of a catalyst the chemical reaction will still go to completion but at a far slower rate. And this is true. Some complex chemical reactions may occur in the &quot;blink of an eye&quot; when accelerated by a catalyst but in the absence of the catalyst, the reaction may take years or even hundreds of years to go to completion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewhausforum.com/showthread.php?2029-Cracked-corn-questions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewhausforum.com/showthread.php?2029-Cracked-corn-questions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastEditorUserId="2833" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T18:11:42.493" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T18:11:42.493" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-11-14T18:11:42.493" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7962" CreationDate="2012-11-09T21:53:37.407" Score="6" ViewCount="1698" Body="&lt;p&gt;Higher temperature?  I have squeezed the bag during BIAB pretty aggressively and haven't extracted any tannins (that I can perceive).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T04:48:53.763" Title="Why is it ok to squeeze a BIAB, but not a grain bag for steeping?" Tags="|biab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7961" CreationDate="2012-11-10T15:54:12.407" Score="1" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;We did our first all-grain last night. Despite the amount of research I did ahead of time, I missed one tip that probably would have helped --preheating the mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe called for a mash temperature of 154 degrees. We had 12.875 pounds of grain and used the recommended water/grain ratio of 1.25 qt per pound. We came up with an infuse temp of about 167 degrees and about 4 gallons of water. After infusion and stirring the grains, the temperature was a little high at 156 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About ten minutes into it, I noticed the lid on the Igloo cooler had lifted slightly (probably enough to allow heat to escape), so I put a stack of books and a 6 1/2 gallon glass carboy on the top of the lid to help hold it down, but I think it was too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should note, the recipe also called for some chocolate grains to be added for the last 10 minutes of the mash, so we lost an additional amount of heat when we removed the lid for this step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the hour, we were down to about 140 degrees --14 degrees shy of the target mash temperature. Fast forward to the end of the brew (just prior to pitching the yeast) and the OG was only 1.030 --nowhere close to the 1.057 we were expecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a winter ale with cinnamon, ginger, orange peel, etc. Is there any hope for this beer? It's currently sitting in a carboy and it's too early to tell if fermentation will occur, but I'm suspecting the worst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: I forgot to mention, I believe we screwed up on the sparge process because I didn't know how much water to use or what the temperature of the water should be. I'm estimating we used about 2 gallons of water at 170 degrees and for some reason, I didn't even think about stirring the grains during this process. I'm sure this didn't help with efficiency, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastEditorUserId="2714" LastEditDate="2012-11-10T16:03:27.840" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T16:47:36.910" Title="Temperature Dropped - Is Beer Ruined?" Tags="|all-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7960" CreationDate="2012-11-10T16:47:36.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll probably be OK, even with the temp drop, if you maintained a temp above 145 for most of the mash.  I doubt that the temp had anything to do with your low OG.  Do you fly sparge or batch sparge?  If you fly sparge, you don't want to stir the grain during the sparge.  If you batch sparge you want to stir it thoroughly before you start the runoff, but not during.  Most of the time the crush is the biggest factor in efficiency, so you should look into that.  You should also check out Kai Troester's work on conversion efficiency at &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Troubleshooting_Brewhouse_Efficiency#Determining_Conversion_Efficiency&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Troubleshooting_Brewhouse_Efficiency#Determining_Conversion_Efficiency&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T16:47:36.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7958" CreationDate="2012-11-10T16:49:27.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a misconception.  You certainly can squeeze the grain bag you use for steeping.  Tannin extraction is mainly dependent on pH, so if your pH is OK there shouldn't be a problem.  Keep in mind that grain will drop the pH of your water, but of you use too much water for steeping the grain won't be able to drop it enough and you may get tannins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T16:49:27.480" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7969" CreationDate="2012-11-10T17:12:39.517" Score="8" ViewCount="2544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I soaked my blowoff hose in PBW for an hour or so, then rinsed and let dry. There is still light amounts of residue visible. The only brush I own is a carboy brush which I don't think will fit through, due to the bent angle. Also, I'm a little worried that the brush might scratch the plastic. How does everyone else clean blowoff hoses? It's the standard width and basic length (cut and sold to me by my local home brew shop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2834" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T00:18:03.540" Title="How to clean the inside of a blowoff hose" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|blow-off-tube|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7963" CreationDate="2012-11-10T22:08:52.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem, and I told myself that it will be fine not to get it too clean since it is only for and overflow and I soak it in StarSan before I use it. However, I will replace it every now and then...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T22:08:52.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7968" CreationDate="2012-11-10T23:28:02.130" Score="2" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;http://tastybrew.mobify.me/calculators/infusion.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this infusion calculator&lt;/a&gt; to determine how much and what the water temperature should be when adding water to my mash tun. A recipe I'm following calls for a protein rest at 122 degrees F for 30 minutes followed by 60 minutes at 155 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've entered the first protein rest step using 0.75 qt per pound ratio (I'm aiming for 1.25 per pound in the end). There are 11.5 pounds of grains, so I'm coming up with an infusion temperature of 135 degrees and 8.6 qt of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second step, I'm assuming we'll lose about two degrees, so my desired mash temperature is 155 degrees, starting temperature is 120 degrees and I have &lt;strong&gt;no idea&lt;/strong&gt; what the infusion water temperature is. Shouldn't the calculator tell me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the calculator asking me? I'm very confused right now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T03:11:48.103" Title="Calculating Infusion Temperature After Protein Rest" Tags="|mash|all-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7927" CreationDate="2012-11-10T23:37:52.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the usplastics site.  They have food grade containers that are more rectangular.  Yes, they are not glass, but plastic is fine anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T23:37:52.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7919" CreationDate="2012-11-10T23:43:16.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had to clean mold, but I ferment in plastic carboys (primo water jugs) and the krausen comes off with an overnight soak of oxyclean in hot water. I've never used a brush, so no scratches to worry about.  All visible gunk comes off with the soak.  Before you throw it out, you might try that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T23:43:16.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7965" CreationDate="2012-11-11T03:11:48.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just ran the calculator doing what you propose.&#xA;Its simply asking you, what is the temp of the water you plan to infuse with.&#xA;In order to hit 1.25qt/lb I had to tell it I was going to use 212F (boiling) water.  And it then said I would need 6.3qts of 212F to get there. (I didn't account for your 2degree loss though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to use 190F water you're final ratio would be bigger than that, but not much. I wouldn't worry about it.  In fact, I normally mash at 1.5qt/lb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using boiling water for the infusion is pretty normal, so don't worry about that.  Just pour it in and stir it up fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T03:11:48.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7963" CreationDate="2012-11-11T03:14:26.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, whenever I use a blow off hose I ended up tossing it when I was done because its tough to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than just an hour try overnight and make sure you are starting with warm/hot water.  PBW is pretty powerful stuff especially when its warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T03:14:26.960" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7831" CreationDate="2012-11-11T13:17:03.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebeerbug.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thebeerbug.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This thing has a hydrometer on a cable.  I think it weighs the hydrometer continually, converts that to SG, and sends the output via wifi.  The electronics sit on the top of your carboy, and the cable must go through some kind of seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was probably a buzz marketing action, but I thought it was worthwhile to mention anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T13:17:03.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7684" CreationDate="2012-11-11T15:35:54.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a full gallon, but the dollar store has 3 liter PET bottles for a dollar each (dump the soda pop).  You can ferment and also bottle in them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T15:35:54.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-11T17:42:13.573" Score="0" ViewCount="1014" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7747/how-much-light-is-too-much-light&quot;&gt;How much light is too much light?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read most of the posts about skunking and fluorescent lights, and from what I can tell it would take quite a bit of light to skunk my beers in my current setup, but I thought I'd ask and share some pictures anyway. I have my beers in flip cap bottles - a variety of green, blue, amber and clear. They sit in vintage wooden beer crates I found on Craigslist or Ebay. The whole setup is in my utility closet and I'm in and out of the closet 5-6 times a day, and the fluorescent light gets flicked on and off (mostly off, obviously). What does everyone think? I guess the easy answer is to cover the crates, but I don't want to if I don't need to. I've only brewed 4-5 batches, so far some have been fine, others not, but I don't think I was tasting skunk flavors, more like sour flavors which I think was a sanitation issue and/or other newbie mistakes, like brewing a lager in the middle of July, LOL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S7NSZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottle conditioning and storage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RXd6k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Evil(?) overhead fluorescent light gets turned on for short periods&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2834" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T04:13:14.067" Title="Is this fluorescent light harming my beers during bottle conditioning and storage?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|storage|skunk|light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-12-18T13:30:44.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7977" CreationDate="2012-11-11T23:30:19.703" Score="1" ViewCount="9469" Body="&lt;p&gt;After two weeks of bottle conditioning at about 55-60°F (13-16°C), my beer is still a bit flat. I put a few in the fridge and after 2 days, they tasted just as flat. At this point, what should I do? Find a warmer location? Just be patient and wait another week? Put 'em in the fridge or leave 'em out? I'm still not clear on what part refrigeration plays in bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2834" LastEditorUserId="3022" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T00:55:54.787" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T01:13:52.393" Title="Will refrigeration help carbonate my beer?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|temperature|refrigeration|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7963" CreationDate="2012-11-11T23:31:35.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how long and thick your blow off tube is, you might be able to use a saxophone cleaning brush. I use a couple of standard &quot;saxophone&quot; cleaning brushes to help me around the brewery. There is one on a long (13&quot;) bendy metal wire, with a cloth like tip, the other end is a regular bristle type brush. It fits into my 1/2&quot; ID silicone blow off tube which is 24&quot; long. It also fits into my S.S racking cane and keg drink tubes. I use a tiny silicone tube split length wise around the metal wire to protect from scratching. Some of the smaller instrument cleaning brushes are great for kegs parts too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T23:31:35.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7963" CreationDate="2012-11-12T00:18:03.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So.... after reading brewchez's comments about giving PRB another chance, and after a long look at my carboy brush I had a realization: that bend in the carboy brush could be.... unbent. Easily. And so, after a 2 hour soaking and rinsing, I shoved the now straight carboy brush in, swirled about, hit it from the other end, and wouldn't you know: clean as the day I bought it. As for the now straight carboy brush: bent it right back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks also to David PGB and Flyhard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2834" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T00:18:03.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7973" CreationDate="2012-11-12T00:42:52.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;CO₂ solubility is a function of temperature.  If you can force carbonate, temperature and pressure can be varied in relation to each other to obtain a particular level of carbonation (generally expressed in the number of volumes of CO₂ dissolved into the beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you bottle-prime, you've added a fixed amount of sugar, which means a fixed amount of CO₂.  Temperature will only vary how readily it stays dissolved.  If cold and you open with a &quot;pop&quot;, then when heated you'll get a &quot;POP&quot;.  But the temperature won't change how much CO₂ present overall.  If it's not carbed warm, it'll be perceived as even less carbed cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please detail your priming/bottle conditioning process.  What style of beer?  How long in primary?  What was the FG?  What was your bottling process?  How much priming sugar?  How did you introduce the priming sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T00:42:52.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7973" CreationDate="2012-11-12T00:50:49.157" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast work better at warmer temps, and at this point you want the yeast to ferment the priming and carb your beer.  That means you should keep the beer around 70-75°F (21-24°C) while you're trying to carb it.  Once it's carbed, putting it in the fridge will not only aid the dissolution of CO2 into the beer, but will also retard staling.  At this point, your best bet is to keep the beer at room temp and be patient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="3022" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T00:56:05.690" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T00:56:05.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7981" CreationDate="2012-11-12T04:39:52.140" Score="0" ViewCount="465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to secure my inline electric mash heater to my brew bench but be able to quickly break it down for cleaning purposes.  I'm thinking the easiest way to do this would be some type of quick-release clamp or clamps that can handle 180 degree wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's basically a 1&quot; copper tube with a water heater element in it, fed by a 1/2&quot; NPT &quot;T&quot; near the base of the element, and a 1/2&quot; NPT reducer at the far end of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions for me?  I don't really know what to Google for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T18:46:47.167" Title="quick release pipe clamp" Tags="|rims|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7980" CreationDate="2012-11-12T09:30:54.543" Score="1" ViewCount="2793" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to install a water heater element in my boiling kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Reliance-Water-Heater-Element-9000405-045/dp/B002YGKHZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1352712069&amp;amp;sr=8-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reliance&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0002YU2YS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Camco&lt;/a&gt; elements but since neither is easy to get by in Finland I really need to go for a sure bet. Unfortunately the product descriptions are not detailed enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In special, which size of hole would I need to make on my kettle for those? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an 44L aluminum kettle 40cm in diameter with walls about 6mm thick (yeah, that tick, they are for making tomato sauce).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, any recommendation on the wattage? Is 4500W too much for boiling about 35L of wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are going to get a bigger kettle (85L) some time soon and if the experiment goes well with the 40L kettle we will install a heater on that one also (to boil about 70L I reckon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any preferences between the brands above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastEditorUserId="2295" LastEditDate="2013-01-02T11:10:11.397" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T11:10:11.397" Title="Screw dimensions for camco/reliance water heater element?" Tags="|boil|electric|boil-kettle|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7979" CreationDate="2012-11-12T14:25:31.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a 5500W reliance element for boiling 56L wort (ca. 15 gallons) on about 80% duty which gives a vigorous boil. This is the typical pre-boil volume for hitting 10 gallons packaged beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The element uses a 1&quot; NPS thread (although check carefully - there are also elements with 1-3/8&quot; thread.) You can get 1&quot; NPS locknuts at &lt;a href=&quot;http://bargainfittings.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bargainfittings.com&lt;/a&gt;. There's a great write-up on installing elements to kettles at &lt;a href=&quot;http://theelectricbrewery.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;theelectricbrewery.com&lt;/a&gt;, which describes all the fittings needed and hole punch sizes. In Europe, Q.Max make hole punches - they are considerably less expensive than Greene-Lee punches, and did the job well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have 240v single phase in Finland (as I do in Norway), you can't follow the electrical side of things as written, which is designed for 240v split phase. But if you know electrics then making the necessary adjustments is straightforward. If you aren't familiar with electrics, then get help from a friend that does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I remembered I have a spare reliance element, 5500W 1&quot; NPS - a  rough picture below. The screw thread is at least 10mm, possibly 11mm. I'd imagine you have plenty of room with the 3mm wall. The rubber grommet is of course removable, and you will probably want to replace this with a silicone one and a retaining shim as described in the electric brewery. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7UQZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Reliance 5500W element&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-11-26T23:45:03.760" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T23:45:03.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7978" CreationDate="2012-11-13T17:48:37.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never used a 1&quot; setup, nor have I seen one, but hey lets see if this will work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way will be to buy 2 of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewershardware.com/Mounting-Bracket-for-1.5-RIMS-Tube.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these clamps&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a 10mm threaded port on the bottom that can be bolted or welded to your stand. They have quick releases to easily remove your RIMS tube and clean it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to mount it vertically that will take a little bit of moding your tube, but the clamps would still be the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would just need to sweat on a 2 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/pd_59664-137-CL600_4294822005__?productId=3506710&amp;amp;Ns=p_product_avg_rating%7C1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these slip couplings&lt;/a&gt; where they will match up with your mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do this for the horizontal mount as well for extra security.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastEditorUserId="3109" LastEditDate="2013-02-14T18:46:47.167" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T18:46:47.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7984" CreationDate="2012-11-13T19:18:12.973" Score="3" ViewCount="6437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to use a commercial beer bottle that looks exactly the same as my homebrew bottles, picture related: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nY6Hw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mexican Beer - Bohemia&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I tried to cap with a Red Baron capper, this only pops...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opening of the bottle looks pretty similar, and the caps are the same size... Why is this not working?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T13:34:42.920" Title="Why I can't recap commercial bottles?" Tags="|bottling|commercial|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7982" CreationDate="2012-11-13T19:46:47.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some bottles have different size lips, and some cappers have different size crowns. While they look the same they are going to be just slightly different. What you try to cap the bottle, the neck will shatter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;26mm is the midsize cap, which is common throughout the world, but there are larger 29mm size cap, which is used in Europe (common on Belgian beers) and on champagne bottles. Some breweries in the US are also starting to use the 29mm caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not found an outlet for 29mm caps, but I also didnt look that hard. When I found out my capping crown was 26mm (which you will get from a homebrew shop) I just started only collecting those 26mm bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T19:46:47.490" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-11-13T19:46:47.490" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7982" CreationDate="2012-11-14T12:09:02.347" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have the red baron capper, the crown size is actually interchangeable. Noted in the below picture, these metal brackets on each side slide out, revealing a different size crown on it's opposite side. You can then flip the bracket and slide it back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where I would start, especially since you state the caps are the exact same size. I have encountered commercial bottles which have the common mid-size caps, but require the crown setting on the capper to be set to the larger size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RUBz0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;red baron capper&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T12:09:02.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7986" CreationDate="2012-11-14T12:24:08.470" Score="1" ViewCount="2404" Body="&lt;p&gt;Collaborating with some in my homebrew club on a recipe for our first gluten-free homebrew. We are currently planning to primarily use sorghum extract, as well as rice extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are currently at the stage which we are identifying how best to increase the body and mouth feel of this beer without the use of gluten. Currently, we are of the belief that malto dextrine would be best (though I would love to hear better ideas :) ). Lactose was considered, but thought to be counteractive with the whole premise of a beer being gluten-free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if we are to use malto dextrine, in this style of beer, what would be a good amount to use, or how much would be too much? Main concern currently coming to mind is dangerously high sweetness levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T14:52:48.027" Title="How much malto dextrin is too much? Increasing body of gluten-free homebrew" Tags="|body|gluten-free|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7985" CreationDate="2012-11-14T12:44:06.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maltodextrin isn't sweet, or certainly nowhere near as sweet as succrose - from 1/10 to 1/4 as sweet depending upon the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pformulate.com/maltodextrin.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;type&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;200g in 5 gallons can give a slight improvement in body. 500g would make a significant difference. 1kg and you'd almost need to cut your beer in slices to serve! :D  Even with 1kg the amount of sweetness added will not be unpalatable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much you need will vary according to how thin your starting beer is, and on your preferences. It's best to make up a solution of maltodextrin of known concentration (e.g. weight to volume ratio of sugar to water)  and add this in different concentrations to your beer to determine which you prefer. When adding to your entire batch, play on the low side, since it's easy to add more later if you really feel it's too thin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T14:52:48.027" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T14:52:48.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7572" CreationDate="2012-11-15T04:00:58.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry my friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phenolic acids do not go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phenolic acids arise during Hydrolysis, and most importantly through ATP when glucose is being converted into Ethyl alcohols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few different phenols in beer. The medicinal/bandaidy ones are typically the chlorophenols, which occur when chlorine from the water or from bleach chemically bond with the normal phenols produced by the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main phenol beer people look for has a clove flavor. That is from the Belgian/Hef yeast that produces that particular phenolic acid. In many beers it is a flaw, but it is indeed often intentional for certain beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ways to fix Phenols:&#xA;I could first check for infection, check yeast strain and health, and lower fermentation temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following link talks about phenols from Mash/Sparge to PH of Water used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/phenolic-flavors.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/phenolic-flavors.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2833" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T04:00:58.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7866" CreationDate="2012-11-15T16:58:42.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy one of these, and your problem with no access to a hose fitting is solved. I use it in my 2nd floor apartment for my immersion chiller, works like a charm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/faucet-adapter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/faucet-adapter.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2266" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T16:58:42.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7991" CreationDate="2012-11-15T19:24:49.533" Score="2" ViewCount="12120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make a Hot Liquor Tank with a 5 gallons cooler and an immersion heater, but I don't have idea about where and which immersion heater I need. I read a tutorial, and the guy is using a 1500 watt heater, but not more information...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is your experience with this HLT? And where I could buy the heater?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T19:40:30.253" Title="Where to buy an immersion heater?" Tags="|boil|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7990" CreationDate="2012-11-15T21:49:53.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Electric Brewery is a very popular source for building electric homebrew setups when using steel/aluminum kettles. They sell prebuilt heaters and they also give a list of all the parts they use so that you can buy them separately elsewhere (e.g. Amazon) and put it together yourself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-element-kits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-element-kits&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally would go this route when using electric heating elements because it's safer. With heating elements inside plastic coolers, you really need to know what you're doing or you could melt it and/or leach chemicals from the plastic if it's not rated for water hot enough. But if you make sure you can keep it in the safe temp range (sparge temps), 1000W or 2000W would be enough to get you to sparge temps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Camco - the brand the Electric Brewery guy recommends - also makes &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0006IX8AA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1000 watt 120V&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0006JLVBW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2000 watt 120V heaters&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or search the web for 'homebrew heat stick' and you'll see lots of other ones. Heat sticks are often used to supplement heat from a stove for full boils and people often want them to plug into 120V outlets in the kitchen, so they don't need to be that powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or a bucket heater like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BDB4UG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Allied Precision Bucket Heater&lt;/a&gt; (says Marshalltown, made by Allied). Note the bucket heater is not necessarily safe for potable water, though hundreds of homebrewers use it. I used to use it to supplement my boils, but found that it had too many spots that could not be cleaned, so until I can take the rivets out and take the steel shield off, I won't use it anymore for that. But for heating water, it should be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, you can get everything on Amazon. I'm sure you could also get it at a hardware store or plumbing supply store as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T19:40:30.253" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T19:40:30.253" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7972" CreationDate="2012-11-17T03:08:46.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is why brown bottles are useful; they protect the beer from the light (UV). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that clear bottles are the worse at this job. For the green and the blue, I wasn't sure, but according to this link, they are no better than the clear ones:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer_bottle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer_bottle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the best solution would be to use only brown bottles. If you can't, try to hide the clear bottles from light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is probably not a big deal.  Many companies use clear bottles, and while it does affect the taste, it doesn't seem to be a big problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2504" LastEditorUserId="1792" LastEditDate="2012-12-18T04:13:14.067" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T04:13:14.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7996" CreationDate="2012-11-17T20:28:54.440" Score="14" ViewCount="18844" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is generally advised to leave a yeast starter for at least 24 hours to get optimal yeast growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I only have a few hours, is there any point making a starter from my liquid yeast pack? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any harm done by doing a very short starter, or do I just get a lower cell count than a starter left for the optimal duration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2451" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T20:13:46.590" Title="What is the minimum amount of time required for a yeast starter?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7994" CreationDate="2012-11-17T23:44:56.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer to give my starters four or five days. Fermentation is usually done in 24 or 48 hours, but I like to cold-crash the starter so that the yeast falls to the bottom. That way, I can decant the beer off the yeast, and pitch just the yeast. If you only give your starter 24 hours, you're forced to pitch the whole starter into your wort. Not a big deal, I suppose but I prefer to pitch just the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't let your starter ferment for 24 hours, I'd suggest you skip it entirely. Every time you move your yeast from one place to another, you increase the risk of contamination. If you only have a few hours for your starter, it's unlikely to affect your yeast's cell count, and there's some small risk of infection from the procedure. So you're better off to just pitch directly from the smack pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll almost certainly be under pitching, unless your beer has a low starting gravity and the yeast is very fresh. You can mitigate the effects of under pitching by oxygenating the wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T23:44:56.793" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7994" CreationDate="2012-11-18T14:38:40.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A short starter is fine. I often have starters that begin stirring when I start the brewday, so they're only going for 8-10 hours max. With appropriate handling, the risk of contamination can be mitigated and reduced to be negligible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the small amount of wort, lag time with a vial of yeast is at most a couple of hours (assuming a fresh vial.) Yeast cells bud every 3-8 hours depending upon strain, so you can expect at least a doubling in population, typically more, plus this gets the yeast active, reducing the lag time in primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it's ideal to let the starter run for 24h, but even a third of that is better than no starter at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T14:38:40.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7994" CreationDate="2012-11-18T18:14:32.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always start your yeast, brew the same day and then pitch the 24hr starter the next day.  As long as your sanitation is good your wort will be plenty stable in the fermentor for 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I routinely let me lager worts sit in the fermentation fridge over night at the intended pitching temp.  Then I pitch the yeast the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is any value in doing a 6 hour starter.  So my answer is to brew and be careful with sanitation then pitch the next day after you get a 24 hr starter rolling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T18:14:32.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7831" CreationDate="2012-11-18T22:34:26.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewbit.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BrewBit&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebeerbug.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerBug&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewpi.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewpi&lt;/a&gt; are all setting out to do what you want on a homebrew scale - a sensor with realtime data.  (The commercial market already has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anton-paar.com/Online-Measurement-of-Alcohol-Extract-and-Original-Extract-Beer-Monitor/Inline-Beverage-Analyzer/60_UK_en?product_id=245#Features&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some&lt;/a&gt;, but they're beyond impractical outside a brewery setting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you, I'd wait until the dust settles on this one, I'm thinking there will be lower prices, and better products in 12 to 18 months.&#xA;Of course, if you think one looks REALLY promising, they all seem ready and willing to take your money via kickstarter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2617" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T22:34:26.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1551" CreationDate="2012-11-19T22:51:53.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you dechlorinate your water, or use a bleach sanitizing solution? This can cause chlorophenols which can cause a clove flavour.  I just brewed an ESB with Whitelabs Brit ale yeast.  I  didn't dechlorinate and used bleach to sanitize, and I have slight clove with banana nose, and I thought pretty tasty Belgian!  Brit ale yeasts are higher in phenols so hard to tell brewing flaws from yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2855" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T22:51:53.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-21T02:16:49.093" Score="1" ViewCount="734" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/885/using-coffee-in-beer&quot;&gt;someone added coffee in a stout beer&lt;/a&gt;, I want to use it in batch of my beer (18 liters), to do so I have two ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To combine grains of coffee with mash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make an espresso and add it to the mosh before the hop was added.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which option is the most feasible to get a better result in a Porter style beer?&#xA;Also, How many grains of coffee would you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2801" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T12:58:03.073" Title="Most Feasible method to add Grains of Coffee in Porter Style" Tags="|mash|coffee|porter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-21T02:35:15.423" Score="1" ViewCount="1579" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to know the exact amount of hops needed by most of beer styles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any table or something that guides the amounts or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2801" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T12:30:20.467" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T19:15:04.120" Title="Amount of hops necessary" Tags="|beer-styles|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8001" CreationDate="2012-11-21T02:59:08.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/stylecenter.php&quot;&gt;BJCP Guidelines&lt;/a&gt; give recommended hopping levels for most styles. The amount of bitterness is expressed as International Bittering Units (IBU). The IBU rating for a beer is a function of: quantity of hops, bitterness of hops (alpha acid percentage), boil time, and gravity and volume of wort. There are lots of good IBU calculators on the web. Google for yourself, but here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew365.com/ibu_calculator.php&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt; and here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/ibu-calculator/&quot;&gt;another&lt;/a&gt;. (I'm not vouching for the utility or accuracy of either of these tools; personally I use BeerSmith, a desktop program.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to understand the math behind the calculations, Palmer's &lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt; has a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-5.html&quot;&gt;section&lt;/a&gt; on hop utilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T02:59:08.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8000" CreationDate="2012-11-21T06:20:16.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you are looking for an amount of coffee to add, but actual coffee is not the way to get coffee flavor out of your brew. the coffee bean contains oils which will inhibit your head retention and some other effects. I'm no expert on this topic so do your own research, but I use grains like &lt;em&gt;chocolate malt&lt;/em&gt;,and some &lt;em&gt;roasted barley&lt;/em&gt; depending on what coffee flavor you are looking for. consider using some vanilla bean maybe cinnamon in small amounts. really just look up coffee porter recipes and get a feel for the dark grain bill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T06:20:16.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-21T07:39:47.517" Score="3" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on taking the step from extract brewing to all grain with BIAB. &#xA;My plan is to buy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bryggselv.no/products/induksjonsplate-pro-3500w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;induction hob&lt;/a&gt;, 15 gal &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/8423/103458/Heavy_Duty_Brew_Kettle_-_With_Ball_Valve_60_Quart_15_Gallon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;kettle&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/17330/102345/March_Pump_-_Polysulphone__230V&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;March pump&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will i need some kind of spacer to keep the bag out of the spigot when i turn on the pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2409" LastEditorUserId="2409" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T10:56:56.223" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T16:18:02.803" Title="Distance between spigot and bag in BIAB setup with pump" Tags="|kettle|biab|pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8001" CreationDate="2012-11-21T18:07:24.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As well as bitterness, which is addressed by Tobias' answer, hops also provide flavor and aroma.  As with bitterness, the BJCP guidelines also lists typical levels of hop flavor and aroma, from none/slight to full/strong for the various styles of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a starting point for a 5 gallon batch, 1/2 oz produces a small amount of flavor or aroma, 1 oz produces a moderate amount and 1.5-2 oz produces a full flavor or aroma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good way to become familiar with the quantities of hops used and how they influence the final beer is to brew some well-known recipes, and look at the hop schedule. The bittering hops are boiled in the region of 30-90 minutes, while flavor hops in the region of 45-10 minutes and aroma hops from 15-0 minutes. These aren't definitive - just an estimate of the top of my head that I think reflects traditional brewing practice, and you'll notice that the ranges overlap. This is because aroma, flavor and bitterness enter or leave the beer at different rates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bittering compounds (chiefly the alpha acids) slowly enter the wort as the hops are boiled and bittering increases in strength up to about 90 minutes of boiling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flavor compounds enter the wort more quickly than the bittering compounds, in the region of a few minutes, but start to boil off and diminish after 15 minutes or more boiling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aroma compounds enter the wort very quickly, and are also boiled off quickly - in around 5-10 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the length of time the hops are boiled for that determines the quantities of bitterness / flavor / aroma, and you'll see these different boil times in the recipes on the net.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T19:15:04.120" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T19:15:04.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8007" CreationDate="2012-11-22T02:34:23.763" Score="4" ViewCount="969" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing a recipe, and I'll use inverted sugar that I cooked yesterday. But I don't have idea how to handle the specific gravity. I tried to use the densimeter, but it's useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T03:43:24.740" Title="Inverted sugar specific gravity?" Tags="|sugar|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8006" CreationDate="2012-11-22T03:43:24.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try this, if you have an accurate scale:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dilute the syrup to a 10% solution, by weight. For example, 90 grams of water and 10 grams of invert sugar. Mix it very well, and measure the gravity with your hydrometer. The Brix/Plato scale on the hydrometer is the most useful here, as it shows percent sugar, as sucrose. You can use this reading to determine how much sucrose-equivalent is in your sample, and extrapolate to the undiluted syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, suppose your dilute sample reads 8 Brix on the hydrometer. That means your 100 gram sample has 8 grams of sugar. Multiply by 10 to determine the percent sugar in the undiluted syrup: 80 grams. Hence your syrup has 80% as much sugar as the same weight of sucrose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T03:43:24.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1704" CreationDate="2012-11-22T12:56:05.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One more option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a cylindrical kettle, you can measure the volume quite accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base formula for volume in a cylinder is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V = πr&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to get the height for a given volume, you need to divide the Volume by (πr&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since most kettles have rounded corners in the bottom, your volume will be a little off, but that amount is something that is easy to find out. I guess it will be less than a litre in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T12:56:05.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8010" CreationDate="2012-11-22T13:16:02.807" Score="3" ViewCount="796" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a BeerMaker 30  and now I wonder how to do the sparging so that I get the clearest wort possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vcdmg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BeerMaker 30&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue for me is, that I have a steel cylinder that goes into my electric mash/brew kettle. The bottom of the cylinder i a metal plate with holes in it. I suspect that while I do the mashing, some particles will get through there and end up in the brew kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I am done with mashing, and start sparging I will have a hard time getting all the particles out, since a Vorlauf would be the whole liquid volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about getting a mash-bag that I could put on the inside of the steel cylinder (or even on the outside). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I thinking too complicated? Is this effort really necessary? How would you use this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not yet used this, but I hope to avoid errors that are unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T15:45:49.977" Title="How to sparge with a inner mash cylinder?" Tags="|equipment|sparge|kettle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8009" CreationDate="2012-11-22T15:46:17.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just treat it like any other mash tun.  Before you pull that thing out of the kettle start drawing off wort through the valve at the base (at least it looks like a valve in the picture).  Collect it in a pitcher that you can easily pour from.  Then slowly pour in back in at the top of the cylinder.  Do this repeatedly until you think the wort looks clear enough.  It may take 2-4L of circulation total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the wort won't look like clear beer though.  It will be cloudy.  What you are looking for is that there are no big pieces of grain or husk still coming out.  You'll be able to see them as you pour from the pitcher back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2012-11-23T15:45:49.977" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T15:45:49.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8004" CreationDate="2012-11-22T16:18:02.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two ideas for you, with the caveat that I have no direct experience with pumps + BIAB, I'm just spitballing here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A false bottom will keep your bag off the kettle floor and away from the outlet. I couldn't easily see if MoreBeer makes a false bottom to fit that particular kettle, but there's probably a generic product that will fit reasonably well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A screen on the kettle outlet will prevent the bag from being sucked directly in. I use a tube screen on my kettle to keep loose hops out when I drain the wort, the same should work just as well for maintaining even liquid flow through the bag to the outlet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T16:18:02.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7859" CreationDate="2012-11-22T23:08:00.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing the yeast should give you a noticeable improvement as well. Try some different strains, an English strain, American Strain, maybe a Belgian strain. You might find a yeast strain that you really like. Either way it will probably be a huge improvement over the yeast that's included with your kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T23:08:00.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8072" CreationDate="2012-11-23T16:09:16.393" Score="5" ViewCount="29596" Body="&lt;p&gt;I boiled an IPA last weekend, and am getting ready to rack it to a secondary, for dry hopping. I understand the 1-2-3 rule (and follow it regularly, with good results). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is two weeks sufficient for 1.065 OG IPA? or should I let it go longer? If yes, how long? (I don't want to wait forever! Getting thirsty!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2856" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T17:34:27.123" Title="How long should I condition an IPA?" Tags="|conditioning|ipa|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8013" CreationDate="2012-11-23T17:14:45.600" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, there is no rule about time for beers.  The beer makes its own schedule.  In terms of aging, there are no rules either.  The beer is ready when it tastes ready to you.  I prefer IPAs without a lot of age on them so that the hop character remains fresh.  But you should try one occasionally and see what you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T17:14:45.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8000" CreationDate="2012-11-24T16:55:08.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways to brew with actual coffee:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add hot or cold brewed coffee to the beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak coffee grounds in the beer (usually at flameout, or in secondary)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For both techniques the coffee can be added at various points in the brewing cycle: at the end of the boil, after fermentation has finished, or at bottling/kegging time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opinions vary on which method of extraction produces the best flavor.  If you add grounds, I'd probably avoid mashing or boiling them and either add them at flameout, or in the fermenter.  The advantage to adding them in the fermenter is you can taste the beer until it has the amount of coffee flavor you want, then rack it to another vessel or bottle it.  If you brew the coffee, you can add a bit at a time and taste it until you have the amount you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a coffee porter by cold brewing about 20 oz of coffee (about 1/2 cup of ground coffee soaked in cold water for 36 hours) and adding it with the priming sugar at bottling time.  The coffee flavor was noticeable but not overwhelming.  Depending on the type of beer, more could be used.  Head retention was not affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T16:55:08.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8018" CreationDate="2012-11-25T17:34:40.127" Score="1" ViewCount="1520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did not fly sparge properly, undershooting the preboil gravity by quite a bit, and ended up using more sparge water to extact sugars. I then reduced away most of the additional water, and ended up with an OG of about '87 (with a somewhat bigger volume). The target was 1.1. I'm thinking about adding sugar, honey or similar to the primary fermentation (going on as we speak) to get it up to or closer to this level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is fairly general: What might I expect from doing this? From what I understand, I'll need to add almost a kilo of, say, honey to achieve this. BeerSmith warns me that this will lover the estimated FG from '18 to '15. Does this seem reasonable? One of my main reasons for considering this is I still used the same amount of hops, and having first worted quite a bit of it I'm a bit concerned about balance (with the greatly increased boil time). Furthermore, I want the brew to be heavy for the winter months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant recipe is the following but with more hops, Target substituting Admiral, and English Dry Ale substituting Irish Dry Stout: &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/62000/imperial-stout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/62000/imperial-stout&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2692" LastEditorUserId="2692" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T18:03:06.097" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T16:06:27.600" Title="Adding sugar to an imperial stout" Tags="|stout|sugar|imperial|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8016" CreationDate="2012-11-25T18:00:56.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may lower the FG and it will also reduce the body of the beer substantially, which will not give you the &quot;heavy&quot; beer you speak of.  Also, adding sugar will not change anything with the hops, since the isomerization happened during the boil.  I'd advise you to rethink your plan.  You may end up with a better beer at the lower OG without the sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T18:00:56.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8016" CreationDate="2012-11-25T23:09:54.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't add sugar or honey, since they won't leave residual sweetness. If you are concerned about preserving the hop bitterness to sweetness ratio, then you could make a steep of some light crystal, such as carapils, boil, chill and add that to the fermentor. This will help compensate for the lower OG and lower residual sweetness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's probably best you do this only after tasting the beer prior to bottling. You may find that the bitterness isn't as high as you expected - as the IBUs increase, it becomes progressively more difficult to get bitterness into the beer, so you may have got less bitterness than intended without knowing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-11-26T16:06:27.600" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T16:06:27.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8020" CreationDate="2012-11-26T15:03:50.507" Score="0" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to compute OG for some recipe. To do that I used to have a table, but I do not find it anynmore. Is there a table to calculate initial gravity of various ingredients in metric units?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T17:18:33.230" Title="Original gravity of ingredients" Tags="|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8019" CreationDate="2012-11-26T18:43:01.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of a table, you could use an free online calculator such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercalculus.hopville.com/recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Beer Calculus&quot;&gt;Beer Calculus&lt;/a&gt; to calculate the OG, along with other things about the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also several offline software programs that do this such as BeerSmith, although it is not free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T18:43:01.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8032" CreationDate="2012-11-26T23:25:53.193" Score="1" ViewCount="1177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about making something like Frambozen from New Belgium from brown ale and added raspberries.  However it's more of a sipping beer / higher alcohol content than the regular brown ale.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which got me thinking as I have no idea.  What happens if I take brown ale recipe double the yest and throw in say extra 1 lb candy sugar, similar to double or triple Belgium.  I would think it will become higher alcohol, but what kind of side affects will it have on taste and other parts of the otherwise fine Brown ale ?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;__&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Edit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a local kit similar to Avery's Ellie's Brown Ale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Steep grains 30 mins in 160 deg water.&#xA;6 oz dark crystal malt&#xA;6 oz pale chocolate malt&#xA;4 oz amber malt&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Remove grains and add&#xA;6.5 lbs amber liquid malt extract&#xA;&#xA;Top off water to 5 gals and bring to a rolling boil&#xA;add 1.5 oz Willamette or Fuggle hops. &#xA;&#xA;boil for 50 mins &#xA;add 0.5 oz Willamette or Fuggle hops, &#xA;0.5 oz Perle or Challenger hops&#xA;&#xA;Boil 8 mins then &#xA;add 0.5 oz Perle or Challenger hops, &#xA;boil another 2 mins.&#xA;&#xA;Pitch with Wyeast 1098 British Ale&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another Edit&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got tipped off yesterday that King Soopers is having a sale on Raspberries here in Colorado. Went to the store and got about 1 Gallon of them, they were 75% off, not bad for $20. Cleaned them up and made pulp out of, it's in the freezer ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the input from the other answers, also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/frambozen-clone-recipe-comments-54469/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;check this source&lt;/a&gt; if your interested, I will report back when it's ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is the receipt that I'm thinking about going with, let me know if you have input / tweaks on that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steep grains 30 mins in 160 deg water.&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;6 oz dark crystal malt&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;5 oz pale chocolate malt&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;4 oz amber malt&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;3 oz Chocolate malt&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;Remove grains and add 7 lbs amber liquid malt extract&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;Top off water to 5 gals and bring to a rolling boil&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;1.5 oz Willamette or Fuggle hops.&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;boil for 50 mins&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;1 lbs brown candi sugar&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;0.5 oz Willamette or Fuggle hops,&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;1 oz Perle or Challenger hops&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;boil another 12 mins.&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;Pitch with Belgian ale yeast&lt;BR&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2013-09-22T01:39:02.720" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T01:39:02.720" Title="What happens if I Double Brown Ale" Tags="|yeast|sugar|ale|brown|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2012-11-27T09:34:56.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have designed a label for myself in &lt;a href=&quot;http://inkscape.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Inkscape&lt;/a&gt; and bought some Wheatpaste that I use to glue it on the bottle. Works quite nice, but is quite easy to remove again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I discovered that sometimes the label comes partly off while drying, but if you just remove it then, resoak it in the past and apply it again, it normally sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T09:34:56.007" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-11-27T09:34:56.007" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8030" CreationDate="2012-11-27T11:50:49.710" Score="1" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;For being a commercial beer, I find it not too bad. For the few info I collected it seems that Pelforth uses ale yeast. Is it correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From wikipedia&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;En 1935, Jean Deflandre, fils d'Armand, parvient à assembler deux malts d'orge et utilise la fermentation haute, avec une levure anglaise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In english:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In 1935 Jean Deflandre [...] uses high fermentation, with English yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have no info about any possible change after 1935.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="2869" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T13:54:57.037" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T17:40:25.823" Title="Is Pelforth brune an ale or a lager?" Tags="|beer-styles|clone-recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8019" CreationDate="2012-11-27T13:57:46.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;John Palmer's book &quot;How to Brew&quot; offers a table of typical Malt yields including some of his own research on steeping yields. I enjoying calculating my recipes by hand rather then using brewing software, so I find the yield table helpful! Info can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-4-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T13:57:46.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8013" CreationDate="2012-11-27T21:14:27.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the advice given in the other answer that your own judgement tells you when the beer is ready. However it's still possible to give an estimate: I'd say 5 weeks from brewday for low alcohol, under 4%, 7 weeks for medium - 4-6.5% For big beers, you'll need to see how the beer cleans up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said with an IPA, on the one hand you want to drink it as fresh as possible to preserve the hop flavors and aromas, but also want to give enough time for the hops to blend suitably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-12-09T20:13:45.480" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T20:13:45.480" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8021" CreationDate="2012-11-27T21:27:27.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;more grains/sugars yields more food for yeast, yields higher alcohol. depending on your your starting gravity you may be able to simply increase the grain (or candy sugar) and still be within a tolerable alcohol range for the yeast to perform optimally. however if it's a low alcohol tolerant yeast, or you are shooting for a 10+ ABV then you will probably need a different yeast strain, one that can handle higher alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know most Belgium yeast strains tolerate higher ABV. I know there are a few American yeast strains too, but I can't think of them off the top of my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;adding more yeast without increasing the sugars may improve sugar conversion which yields a higher ABV, but more than likely it will just decrease the fermentation time since more yeast are eating the same amount of sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;another trick is to pitch champagne yeast after the first fermentation is complete. champagne yeast can handle very high alcohol content so they can pick up where the other yeast died off. And champagne yeast has very little (no) impact on the flavor profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so you can certainly increase the grain bill by the appropriate proportions but you may need a stronger yeast strain to reach the desired ABV. After fermentation add the raspberries to secondary like you normally would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T21:27:27.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7654" CreationDate="2012-11-28T00:13:20.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which do you prefer, tart apples like Granny Smiths, or sweeter, mellower apples like Galas? Because of how 71B &quot;rounds and smooths&quot; wines by cutting down on the malic acid in the final product, you'll end up with more of a &quot;Gala&quot; cyser. Keeping more of the malic acid would produce a cyser with a bit more bite to it, more like a Granny Smith. So, it depends on what you're aiming for. Like Atom Kawlness said, though, you can always add some acid back in at the end if it is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2871" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T00:13:20.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2012-11-28T00:40:12.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stormthecastle.com/mead/fast-cheap-mead-making.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;These&lt;/a&gt; instructions at Storm the Castle is what I used for my first batch of mead. If you have absolutely no brewing/winemaking experience (and thus none of the equipment so far... I would assume that is the case, since you are asking) you can follow it to make a batch with only equipment and ingredients found at your local grocery store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you will get much better results if you invest in proper equipment, and quality ingredients always produce a better product. That recipe is just a way to try to break into it, if you want to try your hand at meadmaking without a large upfront equipment purchase. If you are certain you want to take up meadmaking... just go ahead and get the equipment. I ended up getting proper equipment less than six months after trying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find a brewing supply store locally, I would highly recommend going in and and checking if they have any starter kits. Usually there will be plenty of advice on hand as well. Or, if you prefer online, one place I've bought from before is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.midwestsupplies.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Midwest Supplies&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2871" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T00:40:12.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="748" CreationDate="2012-11-28T01:39:57.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can find bungs that will fit them, they could be outfitted with an airlock and used for holding a little bit of extra wine/mead left when you rack from the primary, to be used for topping off the secondary further on down the line. You'd still need to make sure there was no extra airspace, though, so it would depend on the size of milk bottles you have, and how much extra you have left in your primary once you've racked to secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2871" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T01:39:57.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8023" CreationDate="2012-11-28T07:15:16.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pelforth Brune is a great beer...I've been after a recipe for a long time. &#xA;This is what I've found out about Pelforth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pelforth is a Bock, which is closer to lager than ale.&#xA;Pelforth,  was first brewed in 1935 using two different types of malt and English yeast &#xA;Alcohol Content 6.5 % &#xA;Bitterness 21. EBU&#xA;Colour 70.0 EBC &#xA;It takes 43kg per hectoliter, that's a lot of malt&#xA;An hectoliter = 100ltr so that into gallons is 21.99 gallon, but 43kg div 4 = 10.75kg per 25ltr brew (5gal)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which comes out @ 1.100 which sounds high!!But you need to scale it down from those figures as their mash eff's are different to ours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;23.5 ltr and 75% efficiency = 6.5kg of grains giving 6.2% abv&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do now have a recipe from a fellow brewer, it's AG if your interested?? I've not made it yet as I only got hold of the malt last week and have not had the time to try it. The guy is sending me a bottle soon to try, but he did say that it's very close to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2872" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T17:40:25.823" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T17:40:25.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="748" CreationDate="2012-11-28T13:20:07.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a bad idea to run a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/com-qc.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wort stability test&lt;/a&gt;&quot; every now and then. A milk bottle would work for that. If you can find a bung with a hole in it (airlock setup), you could also use them for a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fast_Ferment_Test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fast Fermentation Test&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T13:20:07.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8021" CreationDate="2012-11-28T17:38:53.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding pure sugar to any beer style does a few things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, &lt;strong&gt;it increases the ABV&lt;/strong&gt;. This is only an issue if it gets you an alcohol % that is noticeable in the flavor profile of the beer. Brown Ale certainly has no tolerance for any kind of warm alcohol flavor (unlike Barleywines, or big Belgians), so make sure your ABV doesn't go up past 7-8%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, &lt;strong&gt;it decreases the body&lt;/strong&gt;, which is kinda counter intuitive. This is because pure sugar (like Belgian Candy sugar) ferments out completely, without leaving any non-fermentable dextrins behind. More alcohol and less non-fermentables = thinner body. This is actually part of the reason sugar is used in Belgian beers (and British ones to a lesser extent). You NEED that 1-2 lbs of pure sugar to change that big Tripel from a 'cloying', sweet beer into a dry one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, without proper temp control, &lt;strong&gt;it can add cidery flavors&lt;/strong&gt; to some styles. This point is debatable, and a LOT of brewers now swear its wrong, but for years, extract + sugar recipes were labeled as having 'cider' flavors that came from &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;SOMETHING&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (edit: I previously said '&lt;em&gt;came from fermenting sucrose at 70F+&lt;/em&gt;' but this might not be accurate). This &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be an outdated myth, but I've seen a &lt;em&gt;ton&lt;/em&gt; of posts online with extract brewers claiming that this happens to their beers, so you decide if its worth it. Just keep the temps down, regardless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to add sugar, you can safely add a pound or two to any normal recipe without having to adjust the yeast. Just throw it right into the kettle at the end of the boil. Some folks are paranoid about feeding pure sugar to the beer only after primary is done, but for 1-2 pounds, you don't need to worry about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final note, Brown Ales aren't really intended to be high ABV beers, but I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work. Just make sure to counterbalance the decreased mouthfeel of the sugar by adding, say, 1/2lb of MaltoDextrin for every lb of sugar you throw in. That's a rough guide and others might know a better ratio than me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T21:33:09.650" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T21:33:09.650" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8021" CreationDate="2012-11-29T02:14:37.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How funny! I brought Homebrew.Stack up to pass the time on a mellow brew night and found someone asking about exactly the thing I'm doing tonight. The answers already here are very good. Let me tell you what I'm doing and why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brother-in-law is an orthopedic surgeon. (This becomes important later.) He and I are 8 days apart in age, and we both turned 40 this past January. I had a blowout party in NY, planned by my wife (his sister), and he came down with his wife to celebrate my birthday with a bunch of folks, thereby not celebrating his own 40th very much. I felt this was due some serious payback. So, we decided on two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We'd do a beer of the month club for him for the year&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would brew his favorite beer from that assortment, and bring it to him for his 41st&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His favorite was &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/4408/9614&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RJ Rocker's Bald Eagle Brown&lt;/a&gt;. It's a high-ish ABV (5.5%) English brown ale. He's a confirmed brown ale lover, but, being a surgeon, he doesn't drink very much or very often. So I wanted to make him something he'd like, that would stand up to a year or two of aging while he made his way through 24 hand-labeled, hand-corked, Belgian-style bottles. This is wayyyy out of style for a Southern English brown ale, but I'm not brewing to style. I'm brewing for a person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a great Southern English brown recipe in my quiver, so the recipe is based squarely on the specialty grains from Jamil Z's recipe from &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381926&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewing Classic Styles&lt;/a&gt;. I filled out the grains with Maris Otter, did brew-in-a-bag for a base, and punched up the gravity with DME. I scaled up the specialty malts by 25%, but the OG of &lt;code&gt;1.067&lt;/code&gt; is more than 50% higher than a classic English brown. I'm currently wondering whether to add table sugar to this boil. (It's happening right now.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Belgium, table sugar is added for &quot;digestibility&quot;. If you wonder what this means, try to drink &lt;strong&gt;Stone Arrogant Bastard&lt;/strong&gt; for an entire football game. Strong beers are rich and filling. There's something to be said for all-malt, but there's also a tipping point at which you want to protect the imbiber from feeling bloated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems with too much sugar can be twofold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the proportion of sugar is too high, you can get a light body. This is another reason for the &quot;cidery&quot; descriptor. Cider has few (or no) dextrins, so it feels watery and fizzy in your mouth, which is not a bad thing, if you want cider. The same thing can happen with a low mash temperature on an all-grain batch, or with a very fermentable extract.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the gross amount of sugar is too high, alcohol is produced that can overwhelm the flavor of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really there's little to worry about. I've brewed Northern Brewer's Innkeeper recipe more than a few times. That is a low-ish gravity beer with a full pound of sugar and it's awesome. I would not worry about adding a pound of sugar to any 5 gallon batch. It's common brewing practice in England and Belgium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I mashed at a fairly high temp, and used DME (which might be very fermentable... I don't know how it performs yet) in this beer, I'm going to go ahead and leave out the sugar. If the beer's a little rich, well, that's okay. It's a special occasion beer, anyway. If I'd had a pound less DME on hand and wanted to get the same gravity, though, I would not have hesitated one bit to throw in some good old sucrose or dextrose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just wanted to throw this out there as an example of brewing to taste, rather than brewing to style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T02:14:37.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8061" CreationDate="2012-11-30T16:08:59.207" Score="0" ViewCount="1030" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Belgian Golden Strong and an American Brown that are both going into the same keggerator that share the same manifold.  I would like to carbonate the Belgian at a higher value than the American Brown, but I am not sure how to maintain this level of carbonation with the shared manifold.  It does have valves on each port so i can switch if needed, but I am looking for a &quot;set it and forget it&quot; method.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically set my CO2 pressure at about 20 and rock the keg for about 3-4 minutes then seal it off and let it sit for 24 hours or so to get the initial carbonation, but I don't understand (at least) two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) How can i really control the CO2 level for each in the initial carbonation and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) How can i maintain the proper levels after the initial carbonation with a shared manifold.  Even if i get a separate regulator to allow a lower pressure on some beers, I have been led to believe that serving pressure is around 5-10 psi, and i don't see logically how a set psi can maintain variable levels of carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have one gas line on the manifold that is shorter (approx 3 feet) than the others (each approx 5 feet), so suppose I may be able to get close from what I understand about psi vs. gas line length, but I am looking for a more authoritative answer than &quot;that might do what I want&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas/feedback?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T22:47:03.553" Title="Different Carbonation Levels on a Single Manifold" Tags="|kegging|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8036" CreationDate="2012-11-30T16:16:24.500" Score="1" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I currently use a copper immersion chiller to cool my wort.  It works, but takes at least 30 minutes to get below 100 and then i transfer and put it in my fermentation chamber till i reach pitching temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hoping to get a March Pump (like this but open to other recomendations &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/Uo3pS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://goo.gl/Uo3pS&lt;/a&gt;) with the idea that i would pair this with a plate chiller in order to reduce the cooling time.  I've never seen one in action, so my question is this:  Do i need more equipment (other than hoses) beyond the plate chiller and pump to chill my wort?  I already have a 1/2&quot; ball valve off my keggle with a false bottom, so i expect all  i need to do is get a hose from this valve down to the pump, out of the pump into the chiller, out of the chiller to the carboy.  Am I missing anything?  A Hopback?  Any sage advice would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T17:01:03.720" Title="Plate Chiller Use" Tags="|chilling|cooling|pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8035" CreationDate="2012-11-30T17:01:03.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will want something to strain your hop material before going into the pump and chiller … either a hop spider or a hopback-like device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could &lt;em&gt;conceivably&lt;/em&gt; use gravity to run the wort from the kettle through the chiller, but … this is slow (not necessarily a problem, as you'll want a relatively slow wort flow) and (somewhat) assumes you will chill in a single pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness: you will also need some way to move cold water through the plate chiller … standard water pressure is fine, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should compare the surface area of the chiller you intend to get with your IC … if they're comparable, while the plate might be more efficient, you can get a long way by just using the pump to recirculate wort to keep it moving against the coils.  And then you don't need to buy anything new, and don't need to deal with filtering and cleaning a plate chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(EDIT: just noticed you said you have a false bottom.  if this is sufficient at filtering hop material, you're probably fine with that alone.  I've been mostly happy with my paint-strainer-bag hop spider, but will be upgrading to a stainless model in the next brew-year.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T17:01:03.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8040" CreationDate="2012-11-30T17:07:13.473" Score="2" ViewCount="1210" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I wake up and decide to brew an impromptu batch, can I begin a starter at the same time and just pitch the next day? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems comparable to no-chill brewing as far as contamination concerns, though I would still plan to use my IC and rack to my carboy on brew day.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do this, what about aerating the wort?  Do it on brew day, right before pitching yeast, or both?  Anything I'm not thinking of?  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2777" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T19:36:43.770" Title="Pitching yeast the next day?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|chilling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2012-11-30T17:07:19.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of good information here, but I would strongly suggest against taping the temperature probe to the carboy.  I've tried that approach, and it doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes a lot of energy to raise five+ gallons of wort a few degrees.  If you're controlling your heat source based on the wort temperature, by the time it registers that the wort is the correct temperature the ambient air temperature will be way too high, and you'll end up overshooting your mark every time.  You'll spend the whole fermentation cycle chasing the wort temperature.  Much like keeping your charcoal bbq at 225 by opening and closing air vents - you always overshoot one way or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just control the ambient air temperature instead.  Know that active fermentation creates 4 or 5 degrees of internal heat, and plan accordingly.  Use a cheap carboy strip to measure its temperature, stay on top of things, and you'll hit your numbers dead on every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2878" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T17:07:19.970" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-11-30T17:07:19.970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8019" CreationDate="2012-11-30T17:12:27.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find myself using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Malts_Chart&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;this&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; malt chart regularly.  It lists potential gravity, yeild, need to mash, SRM, and flavor/profile characteristics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2777" LastEditorUserId="2777" LastEditDate="2012-11-30T17:18:33.230" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T17:18:33.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8037" CreationDate="2012-11-30T18:41:08.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine doing this.  Don't aerate until the next day.  For an added clarity benefit, if you are chilling all the way to pitching temp on brewday (or at least belo 130-140), you can 'decant' the wort the next day into a different sanitized fermenter and leave the trub behind.  This can also help to aerate.  FURTHER, this will also basically allow you to harvest almost pure yeast from the bottom of this batch, that won't need a lot (if any rinsing).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T18:41:08.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8037" CreationDate="2012-11-30T19:36:43.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's just a matter of preference. If you rack to a carboy and store it cool, then the few microbes in the airspace will not cause too much trouble before morning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I personally feel that once the wort is ready to pitch it's preferable to pitch the starter then - even if it's only been stirring for 8 hours - since it ensures you have the lowest chance of contaminants taking hold. The yeast will have already gone through at least one budding and are going &quot;full throttle&quot; so your main brew will also take off quickly. And assuming your starter was from a vial of healthy yeast and that this is a moderate (&amp;lt;1.060) strength beer, the amount of underpitching (if any) is not worth worrying about. But for other cases, such as harvested yeast, and high gravity beers, you should definitely let the starter go to ensure you hit appropriate pitching rates, or better still plan ahead! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T19:36:43.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8053" CreationDate="2012-11-30T19:52:31.227" Score="5" ViewCount="881" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the simplest answer:  &quot;if it has a husk and its dark, add it at sparge&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made 40 or so batches of beer, but not a lot of stouts.  I have heard Jamil and others saying that they mash all grains for the full 60 minutes, but have heard of others adding dark grains at sparge.  Supposedly, doing this imparts a more subtle roastiness without an acrid/burnt/ash taste.  Maybe the sparge add is a better move for Black IPAs, porters, and beers with the guidelines calling for a more subtle roast character?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a batch of Canadian breakfast stout conditioning where I added all dark grains at sparge (carafa III, black patent), and it doesn't have much roast in my preliminary samples.  Maybe I need to wait until its carbed and ready for serving until I decide which suits my palette.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, I typically BIAB and do a single batch sparge in a spare ale pail with 168-170 water with a mashout prior.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-11-30T19:58:27.770" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T13:24:26.453" Title="When am I supposed to add my dark grains" Tags="|stout|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-30T20:41:39.873" Score="1" ViewCount="16871" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I have read so much about how much easier it is to keg your homebrew rather then bottle it, I decided to go ahead and get myself a kegging system setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, last week, after my beer was done fermenting, I went ahead and racked it into the keg and put it into my fridge over night. I should add that the beer I brewed is a highly carbonated Bavarian Hefeweizen.  I have brewed and bottled this style of beer with success several times before. It is my favorite.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Anyway, on Saturday after the beer in the keg cooled down to serving temperature I went ahead and hooked up my CO2 tank to the dip tube and dialed the pressure up to 30 psi and started rocking it back and forth like I was supposed to for about 10-15 min.&#xA;I then put the keg back in the fridge and left the pressure at 30 psi. for 5 more days.&#xA;On the fifth day I decided to test my beer since I didn’t wanted to end up and over carbonate it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To my surprise, it was barely carbonated?? Did I do something wrong?&#xA;I read before, that if you don’t force carbonate and just let the keg sit in the fridge with the CO2 hooked up it takes about 4-5 days for it to carbonate. &#xA;Well, I kind of did both, and didn’t get much carbonation from it. I thought, maybe it just takes longer then usual since it is a Hefeweizen. &#xA;Has anybody tried to force carbonate a Hefeweizen before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, this is my first time kegging. Any help would be appreciated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2870" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T19:35:18.713" Title="My beer is not carbonating in my Keg" Tags="|kegging|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8043" CreationDate="2012-11-30T20:52:23.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few comments.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this many times with success, although not with precision accuracy (you can see my latest question about controlling the precise carbonation level) where i have carbonated beer in about 48 hours.  I usually hit my keg with 25 psi while rocking for 4-5 minutes then let it sit for 8 hours with the gas and bev lines detached.  After the 8 hours, i hit it again with 25 psi and let it sit for 15-24 hours.  I then bleed of the head pressure and hook it up to my manifold with serving pressure (5-10 psi).  This has worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suspect that you potentially have a leak somewhere in your system (like the keg o-ring).  To check it, you can try to spray something that bubbles (mixed star san?) on the top of the keg while hitting it with Gas to see if you see any bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are leaving your gas line connected during this 5 day period, it could also mean that you have a leak in your gas line, which would be even worse, since your CO2 tank and keg would be losing pressure.  You can easily put your lines underwater to check for bubbles while the gas is on for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T20:52:23.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8043" CreationDate="2012-11-30T20:52:38.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My money is on a leak somewhere in your system, because the steps you have taken would have DRASTICALLY OVERCARBED a beer.  Did you hear gas flowing when you were doing this and/or the beer sloshing with a sound like mouthwash in your mouth?  If so, I would put even more money on a leak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, if needing to quickly carb in a keg, I hook up the CO2 (to a keg with cold beer), turn up to 30psi, rock back and forth for 3-5 minutes, then turn it down to 15psi, after 3-4 hours, vent, set it back to 1-2 psi (serving pressure -- just enough to push out the beer), and try it.  Usually, its just about good to go @ 2.5ish volumes of CO2 (for a hefe, you probably want a bit more than this).  If not, I'll leave it for another day at 15-20 psi.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try doing a 'soap test'.  take a solution of 90% water, 10% dish soap, and spray it on the keg, particularly the lid and connects for gas/beer lines.  If BIG bubbles are forming, you have a leak.  This is the same test people use on propane tanks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the leak is in the lid, you may need a new o-ring or to at least lube your o-ring.  You can get keg lube, or in a pinch, use petrol jelly or food-grade mineral oil.  Sanitize and re-assemble.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T20:52:38.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8042" CreationDate="2012-12-01T18:07:51.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It completely depends on your water and how you treat it.  If your alkalinity isn't very high, or you take steps to reduce it, there's no problem adding them for the whole mash.  I've done that for years.  But if you have high alkalinity or are concerned about your pH, adding them later will reduce those effects.  Either way works, but you have to find out what works for YOU!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-12-01T18:07:51.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8050" CreationDate="2012-12-01T20:45:18.797" Score="1" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I brewed up a batch of an american brown ale. 24 hours after pitching, it doesn't to look to be moving so well. There are hints of a krausen, but not as much as there should be. I don't see any of the nice churning that there should be. There really is no airlock activity (although I have quite a bit of head space, doing a half batch into a 5 gallon carboy) Here is my plan, let me know if I am thinking the wrong things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently the temp is about 65, I was going to let it warm up a few degrees and see if I get some more activity by this evening. If not, I was going to re-hydrate some more S-05 and throw that in there. I was not going  to re-aerate it, as there is a small krausen, meaning I probably should add oxygen at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2266" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T10:11:55.220" Title="Not much activity after 24 hours" Tags="|fermentation|stuck-fermentation|krausen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-01T20:48:30.727" Score="3" ViewCount="11412" Body="&lt;p&gt;Completed my first fermentation of home-brew bitter which finished at 2.5% alcohol after 2 weeks. Transferred the beer to a pressure barrel and added a level teaspoon of sugar per pint to start secondary fermentation along with extra pressure using a screw on CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; &quot;bomb&quot; for a couple of seconds. After about a week ( probably longer that normal due to the fact that the barrel was in the loft where it was quite cold ), the beer started to secondary ferment and reached a high of approx 6% alcohol. Tried the beer which tasted great, but had no &quot;fizz&quot;, i.e. it was virtually flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone tell me what I have done wrong, or if I need to bottle it and add a little bit of sugar per bottle to re-invigorate the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2885" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T22:42:39.430" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T19:07:34.207" Title="Flat beer after priming in a pressure barrel" Tags="|carbonation|priming|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8048" CreationDate="2012-12-02T02:32:53.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me that you may have not had a properly sealed pressure barrel.  So I think your CO2 was escaping during the secondary ferment.  You could add more sugar after you ensure that you've identified where your gas leak is from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T02:32:53.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8047" CreationDate="2012-12-02T10:11:55.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd leave it overnight and give it more chance to work. Just because there is no activity in the airlock does not mean it's not fermenting &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2888" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T10:11:55.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8052" CreationDate="2012-12-02T10:16:23.470" Score="2" ViewCount="2020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a coopers IPA can 2 days ago and it's currently fermenting away (bubbles every few seconds) and is at around 21-24 °C (69-75 °F) which is what it says as the label. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The can says to bottle an add carbonation drops as soon as the hydrometer readings are the same after two days. Should I do this - or should I keep it in the fermenter a bit longer to allow the yeast to clean up after itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2888" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T16:02:03.853" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:02:03.853" Title="How long to ferment for?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8051" CreationDate="2012-12-02T11:11:13.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely keep it in the fermentor for a little longer, say 10-14 days, and then bottle. This helps condition the beer and also allows more of the yeast to fall out, giving clearer beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T11:11:13.290" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8042" CreationDate="2012-12-03T13:24:26.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To put it another way, what Gordon and others are recommending is that you get your 'base' beer (base malt + any toasted + any light crystal) dialed in for the mash. Without a lot of roasted malt or dark crystal, mash pH typically isn't something you need to worry about, and you can follow general guidelines like &quot;1 tsp Calcium Chloride all beers&quot;, &quot;1 tsp Gypsum hoppy beers&quot;, and &quot;Double the Calcium Chloride &amp;amp; Gypsum for minerally beers&quot;. Gordon specifically says to take any dark crystal or roasted malt, mill them separately, and add them in the last 10min of your mash, so their acidity does not drag down your mash pH for long enough to cause problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a slight problem with this philosophy though, in that I am not sure how long Gordon's vorlauf, run-off and sparge take. For him, this process must take long enough to extract the character from those grains. I was talking to a brewer friend 3 days ago who said that he just wasn't getting enough color from that technique. I suspect that his mash run-off and sparge happen much quicker than Strong's, so he didn't extract as much color as he wanted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed a brown ale yesterday, and kept the Crystal 120, the CaraBrown and the Carafa malt separate from the main mash, and just steeped them alongside the mash. I poured the dark steeped liquid/grains into the mash at the very end. My run-off + sparge only takes 15min or so. I figure this will extract the color/flavor from those dark grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T13:24:26.453" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-03T17:57:29.187" Score="4" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had thought that the point of using a siphon when moving wort/beer is to prevent agitation and aeration and a ruined beer. So we use the siphon when moving cooled wort to the carboy for fermentation, when moving the fermented beer to the secondary fermenter and then lastly when moving the beer to the bottling bucket. However, I recently talked to another homebrewer who would strive for maximum agitation when pitching their yeast so the yeast is really integrated. That really confused me. So my question is, When is aeration good and when is aeration bad? (I assume this will also answer the question, When is the siphon best used?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2890" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T18:03:16.967" Title="When is aeration good and/or bad in homebrewing?" Tags="|aeration|siphon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8054" CreationDate="2012-12-03T18:03:16.967" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aeration post boil and post cooling, but pre fermentation, is a good thing.  Aeration post boil, but pre cooling, can result in hot side aeration, which can oxidize your beer.  You can also aerate up to about 12 hours into fermentation, but usually not after that point.  The point is not to &quot;integrate&quot; the yeast.  Yeast use oxygen to synthesize sterols, which are used to build new cell walls as the yeast grows.  A lack of oxygen limits yeast growth.  Aerating/splashing pre boil has been found to not be as much of an issue as was once thought.  The boil will drive off any oxygen picked up pre boil.  Aeration/spalshing post fermentation (like at bottling or kegging)will not be driven off and will reuslt in oxidation and premature staling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T18:03:16.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1250" CreationDate="2012-12-03T20:28:16.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, this is an ancient question but I'm going to add my process since it is considerably different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I don't think I'm 'properly' conditioning the grain in terms of substantially hydrating it.  Instead my goal is just to add a touch of moisture to reduce the dust and hopefully keep the hulls a little more intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take a very small amount of warm water in the range of 8 to maximum 16 oz. That's for 25 to 30 lbs of grain (10 gallon all-grain).  I'd stick to a cup for 5g batches.  Then I dip my clean hands in the water and run my hands through the grain.  I do this repeatedly until the water is gone.  You will notice a change as you do it in terms of the amount of material sticking to your hands.  I use this as a vague gauge of moisture content.  A spray bottle would likely work just as well.  I just like using my hands because I get feedback on the increasing moisture levels, something a spray bottle doesn't let you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this proper conditioning?  I'm sure it is not but I get higher percentage of intact hulls, the kernels still fracture nicely, the grain is not so wet that it causes problems with my Barley Crusher, and the dust levels produced by milling are much reduced.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other milling tips:&#xA;- Don't grind flakes and certainly don't wet and grind flakes.  You will only do this once if you make this mistake :)&#xA;- Don't grind inside: even with my wetting procedure, dust ends up everywhere.&#xA;- Don't endlessly expose yourself to airborne barley dust.  Homebrew levels of exposure are probably not a problem but extensive exposure can cause occupational asthma.&#xA;- Don't grind near electric motors.  There is a very very very small but real risk of explosion.  Very unlikely grinding a 5 gallon batch but if you ground batch after batch in a small basement room and then ran equipment like a dryer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T20:28:16.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-03T23:40:46.093" Score="1" ViewCount="7353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I forgot about the warmer tap water and found my wort was way too hot and even after adding ice and standing the fermenter in ice water it took nearly two hours before is was the right temperature so I could add the yeast.&#xA;The lids were off quite a bit as I was stirring it to aid cooling. They are both now fermenting well but should they both be thrown away cause of the chances of infection are too high? I cant afford to wait 12 days to find out they taste sour then another 12 days before I can pour something into a keg  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2892" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T00:52:41.133" Title="Is 2 hours cooling the wort before adding yeast too long" Tags="|yeast|wort|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8057" CreationDate="2012-12-03T23:45:09.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be OK. Keep the beer at a nice cool fermenting temp and don't worry. Two hours isn't too long; I've heard of people chilling overnight at ambient temp. Never throw away a beer because it might be infected. If your really throwing away send to me!! Cheers!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2893" LastEditorUserId="1561" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T16:38:10.337" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T16:38:10.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8057" CreationDate="2012-12-04T13:40:33.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine. In an attempt to save water, I started letting my wort cool overnight in the fermenter. I've had wort sitting for 18+ hours that has come out just fine. As long as you're good with your sanitation, you should be fine. I always pitch a starter with slightly more yeast than I know I'll need, just to be on the safe side of things, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T13:40:33.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8048" CreationDate="2012-12-04T20:21:54.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Next time try bottling instead of using the pressure barrel. That's probably the main culprit (&lt;strong&gt;CO2 leak&lt;/strong&gt;). I'm assuming you're in the UK as almost no one uses those in the states. Homebrewers in the US almost all use capped or corked bottles or cornelius kegs, which will also work fine with a good seal (for which you probably need a CO2 tank). I can understand wanting to use the pressure barrel to get the cask experience though. I don't own one, but with kegging, you can lose CO2 if the seal is leaky. They make petroleum-based, food safe &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0015ZQ5MQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;keg lube&lt;/a&gt; that you put on the rubber O-rings for corny kegs - you might also try that on your pressure barrel. But bottling is probably your best bet. You could also go to the store that sold you the barrel and ask them for tips on sealing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your pressure barrel is plastic - did it ever &lt;strong&gt;swell and get taut&lt;/strong&gt;? You should have enough beer in there so that there is not a ton of headspace. Then the CO2 will fill up the head space and be forced to dissolve into the beer. Once it the barrel swells, you could spray the seals with soapy water or star san and look for bubbles to detect leaks. If it never swells and gets taut, you probably have a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;temperature&lt;/strong&gt; could have also affected things - &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1172/ale-fermentation-temp-too-cold&quot;&gt;if the temp is too low&lt;/a&gt;, the yeast could go dormant. Ale yeasts are generally ok in the 60s, but below that you might have trouble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, a level teaspoon of sugar per pint is not the best way to carbonate. You should use a carbonation or &lt;strong&gt;priming calculator&lt;/strong&gt; - there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=priming%20sugar%20calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;many online&lt;/a&gt; and they are in any good &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brewing software package&lt;/a&gt;. You calculate based on the volumes of CO2 desired for your style (e.g. 1.5-1.7 volumes for bitter).  But you generally want to dissolve your calculated amount of priming sugar in boiling water and cool it before adding it to the beer. Boiling will sanitize, remove some oxygen from it, and having it in liquid syrup form will ensure that it dissolves much more evenly than adding solid sugar, as table sugar dissolves better in hot water. Once in liquid form you can mix or shake it in to ensure even distribution, but avoid agitation and exposing it to air as much as possible. Refer to Palmer's &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt; (or better yet buy the book).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T20:21:54.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8034" CreationDate="2012-12-04T22:47:03.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll answer your questions out of order. To get different CO2 pressures, you need separate regulators. You can do it in two ways: I use a dual primary, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/regulators-pid-642-Battery.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this one from Micro-Matic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffxaL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your other option is to have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/regulators-pid-8022.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one or more secondary regulators&lt;/a&gt; after your manifold or instead of a manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nWGtI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For #1, in my opinion the best way is to just set it and forget it, instead of the high-pressure shake method. First you would find the appropriate volumes of CO2 for your two beers (let's say 2.4 for the Belgian and 2.0 for the Brown). Then, &lt;a href=&quot;http://knoxhomebrewer.com/images/stories/Reference/carbonation%20chart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;using a carbonation chart like this one&lt;/a&gt;, find out the pressure you need to keep on the kegs at the temperature in your fridge. I keep my fridge at 37-41F, so averaging that to 39F my pressures would be 7 and 11 PSI (those numbers seem a little low in my experience, so some experimentation may be needed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in order to dispense without foam, you need to &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2011/07/14/keg-line-length-balancing-the-science-of-draft-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;balance your lines&lt;/a&gt;. This means using appropriate serving line lengths and diameters to provide enough resistance to prevent foaming, but enough freedom for a good pour. Again, this may require some experimentation. In my system, I have 6', 3/16&quot; diameter lines and serve and carbonate at 10-11 PSI. You can even find calculators online, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iancrockett.com/brewing/info/kegbalance.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T22:47:03.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8057" CreationDate="2012-12-05T00:52:41.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to know for sure would be to run a wort stability test the next time you're worried about your &quot;chill time&quot;. When you're racking your wort from your brew kettle, rack a hundred or so milliliters into a sanitized jar. Cover it with tin foil and let it sit in your fermentation room/ area. If it naturally starts fermenting or shows other signs of undesirable growth... within 3 days, you might have a problem with your batch depending on how long your lag time was. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/com-qc.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;{more info}&lt;/a&gt; It's a good way to know how sterile your wort is before you added your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T00:52:41.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8065" CreationDate="2012-12-05T15:03:38.887" Score="5" ViewCount="2274" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a couple year hiatus from home brewing, I'm ready to get back into it and I have been diligently consuming some local microbrews and saving the bottles in preparation.  When I brewed before, for me, cleaning and sanitizing the bottles was the most dreadful part of the operation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, I've used a bottle sprayer, followed by a soak in sanitizing solution, then another spray, but I feel like I spend a lot of time cleaning end up making a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are effective and easy ways to clean bottles?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not opposed to spending some money if it makes cleaning significantly easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2900" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T16:26:20.923" Title="What are some effective, cheap, easy ways to clean and re-use bottles?" Tags="|techniques|bottling|sanitation|cleaning|bottles|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8063" CreationDate="2012-12-05T15:42:12.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;well..... kegging would solve most of the concerns you brought up. I agree with you that bottling can take a big chunk of &quot;brewing time&quot;. Kegging is considerably &quot;faster&quot;. However if that is not an option to you, I would highly recommend a no-rinse sanitizer such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iodophor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Iodaphor&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0064O7YFA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;star san&lt;/a&gt;. Switching to a no rinse sanitizer made a big difference in time for me. I carefully rinse the bottles after using them and flip them upside down to dry. Before bottling, I give them a quick soak in some detergent of some kind (oxiclean), and rinse with hot water. Then I spray sanitizer mixed to the &quot;no-rinse&quot; specifications into the bottles using an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eastgatehomebrew.co.uk/images/Bottle%20Sterilizer.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;avinator&lt;/a&gt;. They go directly onto my drying rack and are ready for use in 2 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T15:42:12.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8063" CreationDate="2012-12-05T19:01:21.033" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cleaning, I rinse bottles with hot water immediately after pouring them out into my glass. They don't need any sort of washing with soap at that point. I keep them off to the side until I have a whole bunch ready for de-labeling, which is an overnight soak in a sink full of PBW. Most labels just slide right off the next day. A quick rinse and the bottles go on the shelf for later filling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's bottling time, now I just need to sanitize. For that I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/vinator-bottle-rinser.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vinator&lt;/a&gt;. It's fast, effective and neat. One or two pumps, and go. I usually sanitize one bottle ahead so I'm filling one while the other drains, sitting on the neck of the Vinator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K0uJC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see me using it in several of my Youtube videos, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXhYmTlHH50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one on bottling from taps&lt;/a&gt; (get to 4:25 to see the Vinator in action).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which segues nicely to to @David PGB's suggestion about kegging. You can keg and still bottle off 6-packs for friends. I've been doing it for years using the method in the video I linked above. I also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXhYmTlHH50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;answered a different homebrew.SE question&lt;/a&gt; on the subject and described how to do it on the cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T19:01:21.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8066" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8067" CreationDate="2012-12-05T19:04:35.783" Score="2" ViewCount="793" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies if this seems like a rather basic question, but I've been researching various sites and can't seem to get a decent answer. I've been homebrewing for about 2 years (infrequently), and I want to start doing all-grain recipes with full wort boils. Eventually, I'd like to move to 10 or possibly 15 gallon batches. Do I want to get brew pots (HLT, mash tun, boil pot) and a fermenter that can handle a 15 gallon batch and use them for 5 gallon batches, or should I get smaller equipment and upgrade equipment when I'm ready to increase the batch size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2687" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T20:09:12.017" Title="Pot / kettle sizing" Tags="|kettle|batch-size|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8066" CreationDate="2012-12-05T20:05:17.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing you need to consider is the boil-kettle in terms of size, because of boil off. For example, you want a 9 or 10+ gallon boil kettle for 5 gallon all-grain batches if you're doing a full boil, because you will have boil-off and generally want to start with around 7 gallons of water, and will want some room in the pot above the water line. 7 gallons of water is fine in a 15 gallon pot also. It would be awkward to have say 3 gallons in a 15 gallon pot, but for boiling you should be fine with the largest size you'll think you'll want. For the other kettles (HLT), you don't need to worry about boil-off, so they don't need to be too much bigger than the batch size (1-2 gallons larger to give you some space and avoid spillage). They can be a bit smaller. People tend to do them all the same size probably more for aesthetics and convenience than necessity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T20:05:17.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8066" CreationDate="2012-12-05T20:09:12.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So long as you have the additional up front money to put down on larger equipment, there should not too much of an issue. Most things should scale down well enough. An oversized fermentor would be fine for primaries, since the yeast will be throwing out CO2 to fill the head space. Boil kettle shouldn't make too much of a difference, although depending on the diameter, you might get more boil off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing to keep in mind is when you mash in the larger mash tun, you'll have more dead air above the mash, more surface in the tun to initially heat up, and more surface on the outside to lose heat to. So, you'll want to try to compensate for that when you do your first batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T20:09:12.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6705" CreationDate="2012-12-05T21:52:15.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Tasty McD (Sam Adams Longshot winner and multiple award-winning HB'er), he always dry hops for 2-3 WEEKS, starting at the end of fermentation (airlock bumps between 10-15 seconds, usually about 5 days in).  Some worry about the fermentation driving off aromatics, but according to Tasty, it is just a recipe issue (read: add more hops!).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this also helps, according to him, to drive off any oxygen that are on the hop leaves themselves, as hoppy beers oxidize more easily.  Not sure if this is true with pellet hops (or at all), but I'm going to do it on my next IPA to see how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T21:52:15.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8070" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-06T01:00:08.657" Score="2" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to brewing and I recently transferred some brew from secondary that had dry hopping into a corney keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think everything went fine, but I really had a hard time stuffing the dry hops into the slim bag I had.  It took me longer to do and the bag was out in the air while I was doing this, so I was worried about contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, what is a good way to stuff the hops into the slim bag or should I use a different bag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2905" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T01:01:06.897" Title="Good Way to Stuff Dry Hops into Dry Hop Bag" Tags="|hops|secondary-fermentation|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8070" CreationDate="2012-12-06T07:46:53.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably won't get a contamination from that, but i can suggest a device:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a 2 litters coke pet bottle &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut out top and bottom to make a tube&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut it on it's length so you can roll it on itself, diminishing the diameter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Insert the rolled tube on your bag, let it free so it go back to the original diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put hops in, slide tube out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, let me know if you like it so I can patent the invention.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T07:46:53.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8013" CreationDate="2012-12-06T11:37:44.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it's true that there are no hard and fast rules, you can follow the rule of thumb that you should age for 1 week per 10 gravity points. So for a 1.065 you'd go for 6 weeks. I've used this for quite a while now after it was suggested to me and I've always had good results that don't taste green. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth taking into consideration what others have said about IPAs and drinking them young though. With all of my IPAs I taste them at 4 weeks, as I've found through previous brews that the hop character seems to be at its best then (in my opinion), so I'll often just start drinking it at 4 weeks regardless of the OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2906" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T11:37:44.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8074" CreationDate="2012-12-06T22:05:43.750" Score="3" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just moved to a new house and finally have room for a chest freezer so I can switch from bottling to kegging. &#xA;I have a johnson digital temp controller to regulate the freezer so I can keep constant temps. &#xA;First question is what is the best temp to store kegs at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly I have a friend that has been brewing for 13years and from what I have read online, his kegging process seems slightly different than everyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what he does:&#xA;After he has sanitized and transferred the beer into his keg he sets his pressure at 30psi and shakes the keg for at least 5mins until you no longer hear any gas flwoing into the keg.&#xA;He puts it into his chest freezer and turns off the CO2.&#xA;Then everyday for about a week he will open up the regulator (I can't remember if its still set to 30psi or if he drops it to around 12psi) at least 3 times a day and lets the gas flow until you hear it stop flowing into the keg. &#xA;Then after a week its carbonated and he unhooks the CO2 and never hooks it back up when he wants to dispense beer from his picnic tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now from what I keep reading online a lot of people leave the CO2 hooked up and gas flowing while its in the chest freezer for a few days to carbonate it. &#xA;And they also hook the CO2 back up when they want to dispense their beer.&#xA;But, his way seems to be working for him for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have an opinion on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2021" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2012-12-07T21:29:13.990" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T21:35:54.300" Title="New to Kegging - Help" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8073" CreationDate="2012-12-06T23:28:40.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do this too for some beers when I'm in a hurry. By using 30psi your friend is getting CO2 into the beer quickly - the higher pressure and shaking helps the CO2 enter the beer faster than it does with the usual &quot;hook-up and leave&quot; method. If the beer is at room temperature, then you typically don't overcarbonate because the saturation point at 30psi is around 2.4-2.6 depending upon room temperature (warmer means less CO2 dissolved.) This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carbonation table&lt;/a&gt; gives the figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the room temperature beer, the shaking doesn't completely reach the target volumes of CO2, so the daily top ups at 12 psi are there to finish off the job and get the target level of carbonation - around 2.4 volumes at 12psi for typical serving temp of around 42F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gotcha with this is that you must be sure to purge all the air out of the keg or the beer will stale a lot quicker after all that agitation. I've had this happen once when I first started using this method, but if you purge the headspace 5-10 times, then this shaker method works well and can save some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T23:28:40.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8077" CreationDate="2012-12-07T00:08:22.393" Score="1" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still new to the all-grain scene and I've messed up my sparge more than once, leaving me with a pre-boil gravity that is too low. I got to thinking, if I fall short (in pre-boil gravity) in the future, I could simply do another sparge. Assuming I have room in my kettle, I don't see any harm in collecting a 3rd or 4th running --even if it gets my kettle volume higher than I want it to be. Naturally, I'll have to boil down the kettle until I reach my desired volume, but at least I'll have the sugar I failed to collect from the previous sparge (the water will boil away, but the sugar will stay behind).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as I don't throw extra ingredients into the kettle until the appropriate time, is there any harm with collecting additional runoffs and boiling the water long enough to reach my desired kettle volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastEditorUserId="2714" LastEditDate="2012-12-07T00:16:40.340" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T02:27:26.303" Title="Is it Possible to Collect Too Much Volume From Mash Tun?" Tags="|efficiency|batch-sparge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8075" CreationDate="2012-12-07T02:16:24.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Braukaiser's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Batch_Sparging_Analysis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Batch Sparge Analysis&lt;/a&gt; does a good job of answering the multiple sparges question (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Batch_Sparging_Analysis#Summary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;summary&lt;/a&gt;). Regarding the negative effects of boiling longer, take a look at: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7751/any-reason-not-to-boil-for-longer/7752&quot;&gt;Any reason not to boil for longer?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you run into diminishing returns after 2 batch sparges. If you're worried about efficiency, you also need to keep in mind the time cost of additional sparges plus boiling the wort for longer, in addition to the monetary cost of boiling the wort longer. Depending on how you value your time, it'll probably be cheaper overall to just add more grain to compensate for your effeciency, or look into other ways to improve it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T02:25:58.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8075" CreationDate="2012-12-07T02:27:26.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there is a risk - with each successive sparge you increase the risk of extracting tannins, causing the beer to taste &quot;puckering&quot;/astringent (think sucking on a teabag.) Before doing extra sparges, should also be sure that the low extraction is because of your lautering efficiency and not because of mash efficiency, so do an iodine test for complete conversion first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do sparge extra, you'll need a longer boil, which uses more energy and may darken the wort a touch, so keep that in mind if you're aiming for a very pale beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'm not sure it's worth it. I would just add some LME/DME if you're wildly under target, or just forget about it for small undershoot, and look at either anticipating this efficiency next time, or look at ways to improve lautering efficiency if you find that is the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you forgot to stir the mash or made some other mistake that affects lautering efficiency, subsequent run-offs are usually too small in volume and do not have a high enough yield to make any significant difference. Just add more fermentables directly to the kettle and chalk it up to experience!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T02:27:26.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8043" CreationDate="2012-12-07T07:04:27.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a similar experience in the past. I used 40psi for about 4 days. The beer came out 100% flat and 90% foam, (tried pouring at every reasonable pressure, 6ft lines). Turns out that it was so carbonated that it made the beer flat. Funny. If your situation is anything like mine, try de-carbonating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purge the keg to de-carbonate as needed.  It took me a day and a half, purging every once in a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2909" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T07:04:27.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8073" CreationDate="2012-12-07T07:10:46.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find it easier to leave the CO2 line on the whole time. I also shake the keg on its side to speed things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2909" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T07:10:46.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8073" CreationDate="2012-12-07T21:28:20.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a good guide to kegging: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scribd.com/doc/22270649/Summerzym95-Kegging-How-To&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.scribd.com/doc/22270649/Summerzym95-Kegging-How-To&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll usually see beer served at 47F for American styles, low-mid 50s for English styles. But it's personal preference. Try to get your probe as close to the beer temp as possible. Mine is against the fullest keg and wrapped in insulation foam. I find that I need to set it a couple degrees lower than I want the beer with my freezer, so I set it around 43 with a 5 degree differential (dif), which means it will be between 38 and 48 and the compressor doesn't come on all the time. I also recommend putting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00080G0BK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;computer fan&lt;/a&gt; in there attached to the controller to keep the air circulating. This means when the fridge is on, the fan is on. This keeps cold air more evenly distributed and helps prevent condensation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are generally 2 (or 2 and half) methods you'll see for carbonation: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set it and forget it. Chill the beer overnight. Set the CO2 to PSI for desired carbonation volumes list in carbonation chart. Wait 1-2 weeks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank and agitate. Chill the beer overnight. Crank the CO2 up to 20-30 PSI. Shake for a few minutes. The guide recommends a variant on this (2.5) - chill and set to desired PSI then roll for 15 minutes, then let it settle for a few hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used a carbonation/oxygenation stone on my last few batches. You can get them cheap on amazon. You hook the stone up to some tubing with a clamp, then hook the other end of the tubing to the gas-in tube on the keg with a clamp. Then follow the method in the guide (set to desired PSI and shake). I was able to carbonate in about 20-30 min, then let it settle for a couple hours with the CO2 on, then it was carbonated and ready to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2012-12-07T21:35:54.300" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T21:35:54.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2725" CreationDate="2012-12-07T22:13:48.343" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;To quote from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_oxygenation.cfm&quot;&gt;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_oxygenation.cfm&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It was concluded that pumping compressed air through a stone is not an efficient way to provide adequate levels of DO. Traditional splashing and shaking, although laborious, is fairly efficient at dissolving up to 8 ppm oxygen. To increase levels of oxygen, the carboy headspace can be purged with pure oxygen prior to shaking. The easiest and most effective method remains injecting pure oxygen through a scintered stone.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;| Method                    | DO ppm   | Time          |&#xA;|---------------------------|----------|---------------|&#xA;| Siphon Spray              | 4 ppm    | 0 sec.        |&#xA;| Splashing &amp;amp; Shaking       | 8 ppm    | 40 sec.       |&#xA;| Aquarium Pump w/ stone    | 8 ppm    | 5 min         |&#xA;| Pure Oxygen w/ stone      | 0-26ppm  | 60 sec (12ppm)|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2910" LastEditorUserId="2482" LastEditDate="2013-01-21T23:53:53.773" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T23:53:53.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8083" CreationDate="2012-12-08T11:08:48.173" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a small quantity of beer, using something like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/uchima/tech/extract.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hbd.org/uchima/tech/extract.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the downsides of using a bucket much bigger than the amount of beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T16:51:23.253" Title="Making 5-7 l of beer in a 30l bucket" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8082" CreationDate="2012-12-08T16:51:23.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The headspace won't be an issue since your beer will produce co2. I recently did 2 gallons in an eight gallon bucket and one issue I did encounter is that it felt like since the beer was so shallow in the bucket, I had a small zone from which I could rack. Otherwise, for primary, you shouldn't have a lot of problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2711" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T16:51:23.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8086" CreationDate="2012-12-08T17:02:08.693" Score="3" ViewCount="583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just worked up this (extract, specialty grains) recipe from glancing at clone recipes for old Rasputin imperial stout and black butte porter--they both have a smooth, chocolaty thing I'm going for as a base. But my goal is to bring the dark fruity flavors of a dubbel to the stout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is about the grain bill. Does this seem balanced? I abhor too much coffee, bitter roast flavor in a stout, and I don't think it would go well with the dark fruit character. That said, I'm worried that I might be going overboard on the special B or chocolate malt, and am also wondering what folks think of the brown malt as a gentle base here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters, I'm doing some aroma hopping with Willamett, and fermenting with Irish yeast (and if this works out, I'll do a second batch with a belgian strain). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 lbs                 Crisp Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM)         Grain         2        8.3 %&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 lbs                 Special B Malt (180.0 SRM)               Grain         3        8.3 %&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12.0 oz               Brown Malt (65.0 SRM)                    Grain         4        6.3 %&lt;br&gt;&#xA;8.0 oz                Barley, Flaked (1.7 SRM)                 Grain         5        4.2 %&lt;br&gt;&#xA;8.0 oz                Roasted Barley (300.0 SRM)               Grain         6        4.2 %&lt;br&gt;&#xA;8 lbs 4.0 oz          Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM)              Dry Extract   7        68.8 % &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2911" LastEditorUserId="2911" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T01:24:01.877" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T01:24:01.877" Title="Is this a reasonable use of special B in an imperial stout recipe?" Tags="|extract|stout|specialty-grains|imperial|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2012-12-08T17:42:53.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is little late, but I wanted to share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewgr.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewgr.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's something a colleague and I have been working on for a few months.  We have a lot planned for it.  It's free and new features are added often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T17:42:53.113" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8084" CreationDate="2012-12-09T21:55:15.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to minimize the roast character and are looking get that &lt;code&gt;smooth, chocolaty thing&lt;/code&gt; you may want to use pale chocolate malt.  It is much smoother than regular chocolate malt.  However, if you up the fruit and reduce the roast, you may get a better reception by  calling the beer a black ale vs. a stout.  It sounds balanced based on your desired outcome, but not for the stout style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2912" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T21:55:15.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2012-12-10T11:26:31.803" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had very good luck with this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a lot of different tools &amp;amp; calculators and a recipe builder that will save your recipes (up to five for free) and compare them against the beer style guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T11:26:31.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="510" CreationDate="2012-12-10T15:52:33.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been maintaining a starter for about 4 months that I originally cultured from the sludge at the bottom of the primary. I believe it was an American Ale yeast. I treat it just like a sourdough starter. I keep the reserved starter it in the fridge between uses and feed white flour about once a week when I take some for baking. It works great to raise bread and acts just like a sourdough starter except there is not much 'sour' taste. I don't use supplemental bakers yeast. I let the first rise go at least 12 hours and often a full 24. The second rise takes much less time--maybe 3-4 hours. I think treating it like sourdough and giving it all the extra time is the key to getting a nice light crumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T15:52:33.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8093" CreationDate="2012-12-10T16:42:15.037" Score="5" ViewCount="1876" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an IPA fermenting that has close to 5oz of hops in it.  I've had success with using gelatin to clear up other beer styles (Cali Common, saison), but I am planning on dry-hopping this with another 3oz of hop cocktail.  As I don't want to waste those hops and/or strip away their lovely aromatics, would I be ill-advised to use gelatin on this batch?  What about cold-crashing for a few days at the end of dry-hopping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T22:14:31.303" Title="Can gelatin strip away aroma and flavor?" Tags="|dry-hop|finings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-10T20:52:45.293" Score="2" ViewCount="633" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed a IPA yesterday:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;75% 2 row&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5% crystal 20&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5% crystal 40&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10% melanoidin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5% table sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was using Jamil's (Vinnie Cilurzo's? Tasty McD's?) IPA as a baseline recipe, which calls for something like the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1oz horizon 60 min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1oz centennial 20 min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1oz amarillo 10 min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1oz cascade 5 mi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1oz centennial FO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had some Caliente's I wanted to use, but instead of using only one varietal at each addition, I blended each addition so it was more like the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 min - .3oz centennial, .3 oz amarillo, .3oz caliente&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 min - .5oz cent, .5oz cascade, .5oz amarillo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;etc. etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the benefits of this method? I was looking to get a more layered, complex hop profile particularly in the flavoring/aroma. FYI, I bittered with .75 oz magnum @ 60, with a 90 min boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T18:25:27.277" Title="Layering different varieties of hops at single intervals" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-11T00:01:40.757" Score="1" ViewCount="1219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making my first starter and I accidentally pitched the yeast when the wort was still warm. I've had it on the stir plate for 24 hours and then a 30 minute rest. See picture, is it still ok to use for beer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/258514_10101783819892480_765828644_o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/258514_10101783819892480_765828644_o.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastActivityDate="2013-01-01T22:31:37.743" Title="I pitched my starter when it was too hot. Is it still ok to use?" Tags="|yeast|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8091" CreationDate="2012-12-11T00:35:08.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the yeast are still in suspension to some degree after the 30 min rest indicating they are still alive and you should be ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an extra check, take a gravity reading once the yeast have fully settled. If it's close to your expected FG then that confirms the yeast were active. You could also taste the gravity sample. Starters often taste yeasty, or have lots of green beer flavour, but if it tastes meaty, rubbery or other off flavours then you know it's not good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T00:35:08.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8089" CreationDate="2012-12-11T00:41:26.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it can take away flavor and aroma. If you really want to keep the beer as fresh and vibrant as possible, then cold crashing is the best option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that gelatin is bad - but in my experience it does &quot;round off&quot; some of the flavours, making them less intense. I actually enjoy this, since it reduces the amount of conditioning by a couple of weeks. The amount of flavor reduction is slight and may be worth giving up for the improvement in clarity and taste from removing the hazy yeast and proteins may be worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T00:41:26.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8090" CreationDate="2012-12-11T01:33:32.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blending hops can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, they can increase the complexity of the addition (be it bitterness, flavor or aroma), but on the other hand, they can produce something that is diffuse - not clearly defined.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a single hop addition, you get only the qualities of that hop. If it's a great hop, then it's a great addition. But if it's a rough tasting hop, then the addition may also come out as such, or need conditioning for a long time to smooth it out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, a hop blend tends to smooth over all the qualities of the hops added, since each hop is added in lower quantities compared to a single hop addition. You neither get the best nor the worst qualities, but a average of all of them. Only common qualities will be acutely pronounced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your 3 - amarillo, cascade, caliente, they are all citrussy hops. (I've not brewed with caliente, it's not come to Norway yet, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&amp;amp;t=110997&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a forum post&lt;/a&gt; says it's citrussy and works in IPAs.) So you can expect the result to also be quite a nice citrus, but with a &quot;wider&quot;/&quot;bigger&quot; more rounded flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it sounds fine on paper, experience is the only way to really know how hop combinations work out. Let us know how it turns out! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T01:33:32.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8102" CreationDate="2012-12-11T16:49:05.230" Score="4" ViewCount="2913" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question:&#xA;How many in-lbs or ft-lbs of torque are required to crush barley using a mill such as the Barley Crusher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motivation:&#xA;I'm interested in motorizing my Barley Crusher.  There are endless blogs entries and such on how to do this but the parts used often vary based on industrial salvage or the cheap motor of the week.  Selecting equipment for this type of project requires a minimum torque specification I don't have, hence the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No guessing please; I'm looking for a definitive answer for the community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T16:07:43.340" Title="How much torque is required to operate a barley crusher?" Tags="|mill|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8099" CreationDate="2012-12-11T20:57:38.647" Score="2" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always used a secondary fermentation container for my beers and meads in the past.  Today I had a conversation with two different coworkers who mentioned they put their mead from the primary into bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is gained (or lost) by using a secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2922" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T22:08:22.373" Title="What advantages do I gain by putting my mead into a secondary before bottling?" Tags="|beer|mead|secondary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8096" CreationDate="2012-12-11T22:06:38.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want speculative answers based on what might be other users real experiences, I suggest contacting the Barley Crusher people directly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So few homebrewers are being that specific about the torque in the way they use the mill that I think you'd have to cruise many forums to find the 1% of the brewing populace that has already done the homework and found the precise amount of torque required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T22:06:38.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8097" CreationDate="2012-12-11T22:08:22.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An advantage would be the addition of clarifiers and stabilizers in bulk, with the ability to rack off of the settled stuff prior to bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we make meads there are usually three to four rackings prior to bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A downside is oxidation and potential contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T22:08:22.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8090" CreationDate="2012-12-11T22:11:59.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no defined benefits that can be provided as a definitive answer.  You have to brew it, try it and see if that blend makes for a nice complex hop character for your palate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T22:11:59.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8089" CreationDate="2012-12-11T22:14:31.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I view the stripping of flavor and aroma by gelatin (or other finings or practices such as filtering) as a recipe issue not a &quot;should I or shouldn't I&quot; concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you want to use gelatin to clarify but you think you've lost some dry hop character; next time you need to up the amount of dry hops.  Simple as that.  Same can be said for all the ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T22:14:31.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8096" CreationDate="2012-12-11T22:39:28.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built 2 motorized grain mills. The first used a 600w (input power) 3/8&quot; drill. It worked well enough with a loose crush (0.040&quot;) but I ended up frying the drill when trying to crush at 0.035&quot;, so this is a good candidate to gauge the minimum torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 600W drill produces about 380W mechanical output. I was using this on just under half power - the drill used PWM to reduce the motor speed. The rotational speed, was 240rpm, or 4 rps. This gives a torque of &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; T = 190 / 2 x 3.141 x 4&#xA;   = 190 / 25.128&#xA;   = 7.5 Nm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's about &lt;strong&gt;66 lb.in&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, unless you can get a motor with a rpm that matches the sweet spot for milling grain, 120-260 rpm, then you'll have to use gears, sheaves, PWM, variac or some other speed controller to regulate the rotational speed of the mill. All of these have an affect on the torque - most motors spin too quickly and so you'll need to slow them down, which increases the torque if using mechanical speed control. This makes the torque of the motor less of a pressing issue. This leads to the typical advice found in the forums that a 1/2 hp motor is more than sufficient when used with speed reducing transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second mill used a 340W washing machine motor, with a 1:15 sheave. This offered more than enough torque - the limiting factor was the belt slipping, which happens on the rare occaision I get a rock in there, or when I inadvertently drop the feeler gauge in the grain chute!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T23:04:25.663" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T23:04:25.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2012-12-12T13:16:01.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an oscillating fan that I put on low that blows right on my keggle. Keeps the foam down, but you will end up with more loss of volume, so be prepared for that with some distilled water to top off with if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T13:16:01.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2012-12-12T13:45:30.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding a few hops before the boil starts will control the foam up. I add 3-6 pellets from my first bittering addition. I don't remember the science behind it (explained on Basic Brewing Radio), but something with the oils of the hops helps to reduce the foam. Also blowing on it......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T13:45:30.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2012-12-12T16:49:06.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Europe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bombardier 50cl, so easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T16:49:06.497" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-12-12T16:49:06.497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8090" CreationDate="2012-12-12T18:25:27.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may help to extend @mdma's answer a bit and direct you to a good resource (or just help you think through the problem in a different way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=U8EMAAAACAAJ&amp;amp;dq=designing+great+beers&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=JcvIULfmLeqSiQKyuoHQCQ&amp;amp;ved=0CDAQ6AEwAA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Designing Great Beers&lt;/a&gt;, different chemical flavor elements in the hops are transformed (e.g. oxygenated) by boiling at different rates. This is, as you probably know, the reason why bittering hops are added at 60 minutes, flavor a bit later, and aroma last of all. Of course, some of the transformation is actually just vaporization and loss. But there are other chemical processes occurring over time as well that alter the compounds, and thus flavor and aroma. I highly recommend reading the hop chapters in that book for a more complete explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, you've taken single-hop additions at different times and sliced them up into multi-hop additions. So instead of getting the 1-hop+boil time flavor/aroma from each specific hop (e.g. the flavor of centennial boiled for 20 minutes), you're mixing in the flavors and aromas from each hop at each add-point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will do what it is I think you intend to do, which is provide a more complex hop profile. You're not going to be able to taste the beer and recognize a single flavor hop or a single aroma hop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the benefit to either method is in how it gets you to the beer-goal you have in mind. Do please update us on your result! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2911" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T18:25:27.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8112" CreationDate="2012-12-12T21:13:21.047" Score="4" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done some research on wines and beers of Ancient Egypt and I've decided I want to try and brew a beer based on the ingredients that would have been available at the time. I don't want to make a Midas Touch (even though it's delicious) clone or any of that nonsense, but grapes are not out of the question as an addition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found a few things that I was going to run with in my recipe, but I have a question about bittering and flavoring. It would seem that Ancient Egyptians didn't have access to hops, or didn't use them in their fermented beverages, but they did have things like Sage, Coriander, Rosemary and Juniper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Have any of you used any of these ingredients (Sage, Coriander, Rosemary, Juniper) specifically for bittering and/or flavoring your beer? Do the quantities translate to the same quantity of hops? &lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, I'm planning on doing a small batch to start (probably 1 gallon). I'll continue to adjust and make changes with 1 gallon batches and upscale when I get something I like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be more than happy to share the recipe when I'm done with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T00:30:34.883" Title="Looking to make an Ancient Egyptian brew, but what about bittering and flavoring?" Tags="|ingredients|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7147" CreationDate="2012-12-13T04:06:44.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a standard 5gal(18.9 litre) carboy fermented to 12% alcohol content by weight (not volume, 14.5% by volume) approx 1100 litres (264 gallons) of CO2 at 1 atm, 68F. But if you knew that, you would also know that 2.268 kg of ethanol had been produced allowing the simple math to calculate % alcohol by either weight or volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prediction, assuming 100% conversion, is that each molecule of sugar produces 2 molecules of ethanol and 2 molecules of CO2.  Using atomic weights 0.51 x weight of the sugar tells you how much ethanol you can produce.  That ethanol weight divided by the ethanol weight + the weight of the water used will give you % ethanol by weight, you would then use the density to calculate % alcohol by volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could use CO2 production by unit of time (measure how long it takes to collect a liter of CO2) would be indication of how active fermentation was, but it would not indicate (assuming a constant temperature and pressure) whether it was because you were a) running out of sugar for the yeast to consume, b) yeast was dieing off from alcohol concentration, c) yeast was dieing because of infection, d) yeast was dieing because of pH.  Though over several batches of recording these rates, taking SG readings, pH readings, do yeast counts you would be able to use the rate of CO2 generation as an indication of % alcohol as well as an indication of whether your pitch rates were consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2924" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-12-13T20:42:25.033" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T20:42:25.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-13T16:54:11.190" Score="3" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently fermenting a spiced dark lager with an original gravity of 1.064. I began fermentation 2 weeks ago today with a White Labs 830 yeast that I made a starter with. The yeast was a bit old, so I wanted to make sure the starter was going well before I pitched it into the wort. However, this was my first starter (and lager for that matter), so I may not have produced a large enough yeast batch. Fermentation did start vigorously within about 12 hours after pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of days ago, all signs of fermentation have slowed dramatically. The airlock passes a bubble maybe once every 5 minutes. Taking a specific gravity reading shows a steady level of 1.0333 which gives an attenuation of only about 40-45%. The primary fermentation stage for this recipe called for 4 weeks at 50F, so I'm still 2 weeks before that. At this point I'm thinking I didn't have a large enough yeast starter made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a packet of Salflager w-34/70 yeast which is similar to WLP830, so I was thinking of racking to the second fermenter and pitching this dry yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the right thing to do at this point? Just be patient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2778" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T16:33:15.240" Title="Rescuing a weak lager fermentation" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|lager|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8107" CreationDate="2012-12-13T19:03:09.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tej, Ethiopian honey wine, uses &lt;em&gt;gesho&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;em&gt;Rhamnus prinioides&lt;/em&gt;) a plant in the buckthorn family  for bittering.  There appears to be online outlets to purchase gesho.  I quick search about gesho amounts in tej recipes were equivocal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2912" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T19:03:09.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8107" CreationDate="2012-12-14T01:15:20.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ingredients definitely do not translate exactly. Like hops you will also want to add them at different times during your wort boiling or right before you seal for the amount of bitter flavor vs other aspects they can provide (preservative, sweetness, earthiness, etc). I only have a few years experience so I don't want to lead you astray with estimates, but I suggest you look at Belgian style recipes as they incorporate herbs and non-traditional ingredients regularly. For a 1 gallon batch I wouldn't suggest using more than .5 oz combined of all your spices, and that may still be quite strong. One thing to make sure of when you are doing trial and error is keep track of not only the ingredients, but what form they are in. The thing you are often after with herbs is the oil and the potency and taste is highly variant for fresh vs &quot;fresh&quot; from a store vs dried. As fresh as possible is always best in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2926" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T01:15:20.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-14T01:37:14.057" Score="4" ViewCount="916" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my second homebrew.  I used a friend's siphoning equipment and bottle filler for my first batch, then got my own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This second batch is a pumpkin spice porter.  It fermented for a week, and I racked to a carboy second vessel for a week.  When I was ready to bottle, I racked it to a bottling bucket with priming sugar, and then found out that the siphon hose did not fit my bottle filler.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I slowly used a sanitized, glass measuring cup, and would slowly put it into the beer in the bottling bucket, lift, and slowly pour beer into each bottle.  I tried to keep down oxygenation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else ever bottled this way?  If I drink soon, and not months from now, will I be ok?  How soon after bottling does oxygenation appear as a flaw in the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2927" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-12-14T13:08:24.680" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T21:24:48.157" Title="Will bottling by pouring negatively impact the flavor of my beer?" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8124" CreationDate="2012-12-14T08:12:21.783" Score="8" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I can make some post-christmas beer out of the christmas tree (Norway Spruce).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, does wood have to be dried in order to use it for flavoring or can I use green wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When should I add the wood in this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking to make a IPA with &quot;piney&quot; hops. (probably simcoe)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2637" LastEditorDisplayName="user2637" LastEditDate="2012-12-14T10:36:41.710" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T20:15:45.823" Title="Green wood in beer" Tags="|beer|ingredients|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-14T09:44:13.437" Score="2" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed an AG wheat beer and used WLP351 as the yeast for this. Let it sit in the primary for near two weeks (66°F/19°C) and I did do a secondary on it for about another weak to try and decrease the sulfur smell. The sulfur seemed to have been gone so I kegged and force carbed/cold crashed for a week. Pour a glass and it now has a very overpowering yeasty/sulfur smell at the nose of the beer but finishes great. Any ideas on how to get rid of this? I have been venting off the keg that has not seemed to help at all. Thinking about removing it and let it come up to 70F and letting it sit for a week then try again? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2928" LastEditorUserId="3022" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T00:55:58.153" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T00:55:58.153" Title="Off flavor of kegged Wheat beer" Tags="|yeast|wheat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8114" CreationDate="2012-12-14T09:58:30.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My concern with using green wood from a fir tree would be the high amount of sap. Also not sure about this but as far as flavor I think that you would get a better hint of what your looking for by using the needles themselves. I know of a few microbrewers who have made things like spruce beers by adding the needles in, just a thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2928" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T09:58:30.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8113" CreationDate="2012-12-14T13:03:59.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry too much about it.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast will &quot;wake up&quot; with the sugar you added in the bottling bucket, and they will consume the vast majority of the oxygen that's been added to your bottles from agitation.   Drink as you would normally.   If you start getting hints of sherry or cardboard flavors, then maybe try and finish the beer soon after that.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The live yeast are your friends in this situation, though, and they are one of the easiest methods of keeping a beer stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2012-12-14T13:09:05.083" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T13:09:05.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8115" CreationDate="2012-12-14T13:56:00.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with 351. I stick with 380 now, the sulfur clears much quicker. For my hefe with 351, the flavor eventually went away, but it was in a secondary, not a keg. I think you should do what you're thinking: bring it to room temp and vent it regularly. Maybe give it a good swirl to get any yeast back into suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T13:56:00.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-15T03:29:33.083" Score="1" ViewCount="817" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my husband gets up in the morning, the balloons are deflated. When I get up 3 hrs later, the balloons are inflated. They stay inflated all day. It has been more than 3 weeks. Is the mead ready to rack? How do we know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2929" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T05:49:40.497" Title="Mead and the balloon" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8122" CreationDate="2012-12-15T05:09:21.683" Score="3" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got a great deal ($! per) on half gallon jugs of &lt;em&gt;Ryan's cider&lt;/em&gt;. I bought everything the store had (7 gallons of &quot;spiced&quot; cider and 3 gallons of standard cider). I plan on making three batches with this, one 3.5 gallon spiced cider on 100% Brett Bruxellensis (WLP650), 3.5 gallons spiced cider on Lalvin D47 (dry wine yeast), and the last 3 gallons of regular cider on the same D47 yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is the questions:&#xA;-has anyone fermented &quot;spiced&quot; cider as opposed to the standard cider before?&#xA;-Is there any recommendations or experience using brett in a cider, yeast nutrients? Ferm temp? Ferm length? whats to be expected?&#xA;-Also what about the wine yeast I selected, has anyone used any wine yeast fermenting cider? Ferm suggestions? Ferm temp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks everybody in advance, I will most likely be going ahead with my fermentations in the morning (12-15-12) but still curios, if not for information, or next time, what everyone thinks or knows?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T16:57:59.183" Title="cider with brett?" Tags="|fermentation|cider|brettanomyces|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8119" CreationDate="2012-12-15T05:49:40.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a common issue, If I were to guess your fermenting in a gallon or half gallon jugs? and where your fermenting your mead is in an area where the temperature fluctuates (by a door or window?). If this is close my suggestion would be to find a place where you think the temperature is Ideal and wont fluctuate put a thermometer there for at least 24 hours and check as often as you can or at least morning, day, evening, night. Short story short, consider your thermal mass (amount of liquid fermenting), and the temperature fluctuation where your fermenting. Basically your fermentation temp needs to be more constant then not (and at an appropriate ferm temp). Cheers and good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T05:49:40.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8120" CreationDate="2012-12-15T16:57:59.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a lot of questions.  Here we go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have taken regular apple cider, added spices, and fermented it.  It works fine.  If spicing yourself, the advantage of adding spices after fermentation is that you can periodically taste and add more as needed, or rack off of the spices when you reach the desired level.  Since you're using pre-spiced cider, the amount of spice is already determined.  But you could add more later if you want to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I haven't used brett in a cider, although I have heard of people doing it.  Good luck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have used wine yeasts for cider with good results.  Cider is lower in nutrient than beer, so I'd suggest adding yeast nutrient at about the levels you would use for wine or mead.  I use 1 tsp of fermax yeast nutrient per gallon.  It will ferment dry, so be patient and it will get better with age (6months to a year).  For fermentation temp, cooler is better, down to the lower end of the yeast's range (59F).  So keep it cool, but don't refrigerate it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T16:57:59.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8126" CreationDate="2012-12-15T19:29:15.480" Score="6" ViewCount="4059" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't know what marmite is you can stop reading now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of a friend reckons you can make marmite from the yeast leftovers of your brew. Does anyone know how to do this? Any one have a recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T23:31:53.917" Title="Can marmite be made from brew yeast leftovers?" Tags="|recipe|reusing-yeast|trub|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8114" CreationDate="2012-12-15T20:15:45.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For spruce flavored beers you don't use the wood.  You use the fresh lighter green tips that come out in springtime.  Its the new growth that is more aromatic and doesn't contain as much of the resins as the woody parts.&#xA;As far as using your spruce christmas tree, I think you are out of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T20:15:45.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8110" CreationDate="2012-12-15T20:19:27.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warm it up to 55.  Once there, swirl the whole fermentor to get much of the yeast back in suspension.  Hope for the best.&#xA;You might want to start a 1-2L new starter of the same yeast and pitch it at high krausen if that doesn't work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be patient as it might take more that the 4 week total you were hoping for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T20:19:27.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8123" CreationDate="2012-12-15T23:31:53.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, apparently you can. There's a recipe for it here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marmitelover.blogspot.no/2011/04/how-to-make-your-own-marmite.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://marmitelover.blogspot.no/2011/04/how-to-make-your-own-marmite.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The author says she uses 'top fermentation from a brewery' - which I imagine is the krausen, although on a homebrew scale I wonder if that gives enough yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She also mentions that it doesn't taste like the original - lacking the equipment to debitter the yeast, it's more bitter and beery. But sounded like a fun project to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: love/hate? Me, I hate Marmite! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T23:31:53.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8070" CreationDate="2012-12-18T01:01:06.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is what I do.. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewgeeks.com/dry-hop.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewgeeks.com/dry-hop.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about contamination.  Hops are naturally resistant and the alchohol present should keep things relatively safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2380" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T01:01:06.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2012-12-18T02:58:22.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermcap S is far and away the best solution. Use as directed during the boil. You can also use it in the fermenter to prevent a large krausen from overwhelming your airlock, but you will need to adjust your IBU's as it will reduce hop utilization during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also add a drop or two to your starters to prevent boil overs when preparing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2935" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T02:58:22.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3166" CreationDate="2012-12-18T17:34:36.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally,I use cheap vodka.  $10 for 1.75L.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Star san, even diluted, will eventually damage your plastic airlocks.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cheap?  Yes.  Free? No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had one contamination out of quite a few batchs and don't think that was the airlck's fault.&#xA;Bad mash -&gt; low fermentables -&gt; poor start -&gt; brett pellicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T17:34:36.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8107" CreationDate="2012-12-19T00:30:34.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewmasters had an episode on Ancient Ale, where Sam headed to Egypt to try and create a traditional Egyptian brew with the help of a couple of Egyptologists. They ended up brewing &quot;Ta Henket&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerpulse.com/2010/12/brew-masters-ancient-ale-episode-sneak-peak/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It was brewed to 11.4 Plato with Emmer (an ancient form of wheat) and&#xA;  loaves of hearth baked bread and flavored with dom-palm fruit,&#xA;  chamomile, and zatar. Fermentation was carried out by a native&#xA;  Egyptian saccharomyces yeast strain captured by Sam and Floris during&#xA;  a recent trip to Egypt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CDjFae2iAg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's the clip&lt;/a&gt; from the show that discusses the specific ingredients: how, why &amp;amp; the historical significance.  At about the 9:00 mark they taste different additions and Sam notes that the dom-palm sugar adds both &quot;sweet and bitterness&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T00:30:34.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2012-12-19T00:32:59.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that a fan pointed at my brew helps prevent boiling. Similar to the gentlemen that blows on his brew, but this way you don't have to worry about lung capacity. One caveat: I'm pretty sure this will increase your boiloff rate, so you'll want to compensate accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2215" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T00:32:59.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8110" CreationDate="2012-12-19T15:28:31.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely be patient. fermentation at lower temps (even 50deg F) is slower than the higher temps, so it will likely take longer to attenuate...maybe even longer than the suggested 4 weeks. I would definitely make a bigger starter for future batches. You may need to pitch another starter to get full attenuation though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2939" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T16:10:58.060" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T16:10:58.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="568" CreationDate="2012-12-19T17:15:40.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best boza in Turkey (Vefa, for example) is made from millet. Traditionally, the millet is boiled till it is very soft and mushy, then it's pressed through a sieve. This gets rid of the hulls. In the US you can buy hulled millet; I'm not sure what Vefa does but it's hard to imagine them sitting around rubbing millet mush through sieves by hand. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other issue is &quot;yeast.&quot; In Turkish, the word for yeast (maya) refers to anything that's used as a starter, whether it's for cheese, yogurt, boza, bread, etc. But they are all different things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use store-bought bread yeast, your product will be heavily alcoholic, and that's not what you want. (The Greeks and Armenians of Istanbul did make a more alcoholic version but it wasn't considered halal by Muslims.) This may eventually go acidic because of secondary fermentation, like vinegar production, but I think the best way is to start your boza with already established boza. If you don't have that, you can make your own starter as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soak, then boil a small amount (say 2 tablespoons) of bulgur or millet till very soft, and blend or run through a fine sieve. Add equal parts sugar and water till you get something the consistency (or a little thicker, it doesn't matter) than boza. Cover with a cloth and let it sit out at room temperature for a couple days. In 2 or 3 days it will get sour and bubbly, but if you use this, your boza might not taste quite right. Repeat the process, but this time, after the mixture is cool, add some of your first starter batch. This time the fermentation will go a lot faster, and it should taste like boza - sweet and tart. Now you can make a large batch, and use your starter. Each time, save some of your boza to start the next batch. Once your starter is established, it should only take a day or so to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afiyet olsun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scientific info for the biology geeks: :)&#xA;What has happened is, the mixture was &quot;colonized&quot; by wild yeasts, some of which produce lactic acid, others of which do not. But lactic acid kills the other bacteria, and the bacteria that produce it &quot;win&quot; the battle. When you start your second batch, you then have a more active culture of lactic acid producing bacteria, and they ferment the batch before the &quot;wrong&quot; bacteria can take hold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2940" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T17:15:40.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-20T04:15:41.607" Score="4" ViewCount="27620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started primary 5 days ago. On the second day it had a healthy yeast cake on top. Day three it began to fall and yesterday, so day 4, it went all the way down. The temp is at 70 degrees and is an ale. The airlock stills bubbles but about once every thirty seconds to a minute. I want to keep it in for at least a week, but after day 7 should I move to secondary fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2943" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T21:20:39.860" Title="So I don't know if my primary is done" Tags="|fermentation|secondary|primary|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8134" CreationDate="2012-12-20T13:36:50.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a hydrometer and take a reading at the same time every day for the next three days. If the reading is the same each time, then fermentation should be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Airlocks aren't really a great indicator as far as determining when fermentation is finished, so don't rely entirely on that. Also, Sometimes you may not see much krausen during fermentation, other times it will explode!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer will tell you when it's done. I used to let my beer ferment for 5-7 days, but I've got a lemon/citrus wine that has been fermenting for 3 weeks now. If you bottle too soon you'll have bombs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T13:36:50.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8134" CreationDate="2012-12-20T18:10:38.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless your recipe calls for lots of dry hopping or the addition of fruit, you probably don't really &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to do a secondary at all. Pitch yeast, let it rip, wait 3 weeks, then bottle. If the fermention kicks off within the first 24 hours and looks strong, then don't even bother checking gravity for the first 2 weeks (unless you have a strong drop in temp during fermentation, in which case the yeast might stall out). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old lore of &quot;1-2-3&quot; (1 week primary, 2 week secondary, 3 weeks to condition) is pretty out dated. The top level gurus of homebrewing, and the yeast companies themselves, are more and more recommending AGAINST secondaries unless you have a good reason to do so. Yeast health and ingredient quality have improved greatly since the surge of homebrewing some years back, so you don't have to worry about autolysis and such within 'normal' brewing conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T18:10:38.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8134" CreationDate="2012-12-20T21:20:39.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature can definitely affect fermentation.  If yeast gets too hot it can die, and if too cold can become inactive.  70 degrees should be in the &quot;okay&quot; range for most ales. While airlocks aren't the best way to tell if your beer is done fermenting, if it is bubbling (even slowly) it is still fermenting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary fermentation is primarily for clarifying or dry-hopping (hops or other flavors).  That really depends on what you want done. You might even notice that moving to a secondary tank wakes up some of the inactive yeast and will ferment a little more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start looking at Cloning recipes you will find out that some brews tell you to wait MONTHS in order to let your beer age a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an important aside, the longer you leave your beer the more the yeast re-absorbs some of the bi-products that can happen during the fermentation process.  This will only improve the taste of your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T21:20:39.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8113" CreationDate="2012-12-20T21:24:48.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After making sure the spigot is sanitized you can place the bottle under the spigot and fill the bottle to approximately the same space at the top that the bottling cane leaves.  If you overfill you will most likely paint the walls with beer when a bottle explodes... But this is a completely acceptable way to bottle (just a little less accurate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T21:24:48.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8147" CreationDate="2012-12-23T02:28:23.390" Score="0" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some California Ale Yeast WLP001 that I accidentally put in a corner of my fridge that is near freezing and it has been there for about a month. It's still in liquid form, so I think it should still be ok, but any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm doing a starter now, which should help it out, but I'd like to know as soon as possible since I'm planning on brewing tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T21:30:30.263" Title="Yeast Ok After Being Near Freezing?" Tags="|yeast|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8145" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-23T02:43:31.507" Score="2" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have trouble with any sulphites. I have all the wine making equip including a filter machine and have made 100 bottles of wine. Would love to try and leave the sulphites out but hate to wait 3 months to find out I ruined a batch. Basment stays around 60 degrees in the winter months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2948" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T18:27:37.040" Title="Can I leave the sulphites out of my store bought wine kits" Tags="|ingredients|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8145" CreationDate="2012-12-23T18:27:37.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I started making wine I asked the same question.  An experienced wine maker told me that I could leave it out, but the wine wouldn't keep as long and it wouldn't taste like what I expected it to taste like.  He was right.  So, I guess my answer would be that yes, you can leave them out, but you need to be aware of the effects of doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T18:27:37.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8144" CreationDate="2012-12-23T21:30:30.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The starter will tell the story.  If it froze, you might have ruptured yeast cell walls and reduced the viability.  A starter will show you how healthy it is and build new cells.  If the starter looks good, you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T21:30:30.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8096" CreationDate="2012-12-26T16:07:43.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've accepted mdma's answer but also want to throw out the number my local homebrewing community suggested: 50 in-lbs.  This is very in-line with mdma's better documented answer.  Happy automations!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T16:07:43.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-28T04:37:39.547" Score="4" ViewCount="1863" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick rundown.  I was in a rush to bottle an IPA and I forgot to add my priming sugar.  I remembered after already bottling about three beers and went ahead and got my priming solution going and added it to the bottling bucket, stirred it to get it mixed, and then finished bottling the remaining beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well it has been about a month now and all the beers appear to be as flat as can be. I've got a keg that is now empty (just finished off a good stout) and I was wondering if I could transfer my bottled beers into the keg and force carb it?  Has anyone had any luck with something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2963" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T17:46:34.650" Title="Transfer flat bottled beer into a keg" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-28T04:45:28.810" Score="2" ViewCount="1275" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to use Oxiclean Free on a metal brew pot? I know that rinsing thoroughly is required after using Oxiclean Free. Is it safe to let the brew pot sit in an Oxiclean Free solution overnight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2964" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T04:27:39.270" Title="Is Oxiclean Free OK to use on a metal brewpot" Tags="|cleaning|brewpot|oxiclean|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8149" CreationDate="2012-12-28T09:25:40.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can siphon off rather than pour, then you should be fine with this, assuming it's a beer you plan to drink over the coming weeks rather than leaving it to age for many months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any transfer, there's a chance of contamination and oxidization. You can mitigate the first by sanitizing thoroughly, and the second, by avoiding splashing during the transfer and by storing the beer cold (2-7C/35-45F), since oxidization rate increases 3-fold for each 10C/18F increase in temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, storing the beer cold removes any chance that the priming sugar will be consumed. With that in mind, you may want to store the beer at room temperature for a week before storing cold, to end up with the beer as intended rather than with the additional sweetness from the priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T09:25:40.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8149" CreationDate="2012-12-28T17:46:34.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to continue to wait or gently rouse the yeast into suspension. I made an Irish Red a couple of months ago that had the same problem.  I gently rolled each bottle on its side and placed them back into the box.  I checked them again in 3 weeks and they were starting to show signs of carbonation and by the next week after that they were fine.  As long as the yeast are present and still alive they should eventually consume the priming sugar and carbonate the beer it just might take a while especially if the beer has a relatively high abv.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2965" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T17:46:34.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8167" CreationDate="2012-12-28T18:03:32.217" Score="2" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made three batches with the same colony of WY2112, and each one of them has exhibited the same odd behavior. I pitch a good quantity of yeast into oxygenated wort at 65 degrees F. Within 24 hours I see yeast activity. In a couple more days, the krausen has risen to three or four inches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I figure I've got a healthy fermentation. However, when I check the gravity after two weeks, I've only achieved around 50% apparent attenuation. Being sure to relax and not panic, I raise the temperature to the mid 70s. Airlock shows increased activity and in another week, the beer is finished at 78% apparent attenuation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this sort of stalled or slowed fermentation typical of 2112? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T00:43:41.400" Title="Is it normal for WY2112 to stall?" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|california-common|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-30T00:04:00.713" Score="4" ViewCount="641" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just finished cooking up my first batch of home brew, and during the boil I boiled over just a little bit. Now there's this dark black burned stuff all over my stove that does not want to come off. Any ideas on cleaners to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2962" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T01:21:20.937" Title="How to clean my my stove top?" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8154" CreationDate="2012-12-30T00:28:05.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably caramelized sugars. It will dissolve in water, given enough time. If your stove top is a shape that will allow this, put some warm water on top of the stains, and leave it there four an hour or two, or even overnight. Otherwise, saturate a dish cloth with warm water and place it on top of the stain. Again, leave it for a few hours before scrubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T00:28:05.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8150" CreationDate="2012-12-30T04:27:39.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using oxiclean for years and it hasn't been a problem. My brew pot is aluminum and I haven't had any adverse affects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T04:27:39.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-31T02:07:21.200" Score="5" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently brew in my garage but everything that I need is in the basement, so I was wondering if it would be reasonable to think about power venting the fumes, and therefore to CO outside to make it safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2970" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T09:01:38.770" Title="how much air would I need to move to be able to brew in my basement?" Tags="|boil|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2013-01-01T07:14:10.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've boiled many batches in our basement using a turkey-fryer style propane burner. I keep a CO alarm nearby and put a box or other fan near the stairs. I've never had the CO alarm go off, but our basement is approximately 800 sq-ft and our house (built in 40s) is most likely pretty poorly insulated. If you have a smaller basement or more airtight insulation then you may need to move more air. Definitely keep an alarm nearby and you'll probably need someone somewhere else in the house to hear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(disclaimer, I'm not a fireman nor an expert on CO, please don't die)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2013-01-01T07:14:10.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8162" CreationDate="2013-01-01T09:32:23.633" Score="5" ViewCount="998" Body="&lt;p&gt;A pub and brewery in town does a delicious porter with caramel and coffee tones. What particular ingredients do I need to add to my mash to achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2976" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T22:29:58.963" Title="Increasing the 'caramel and coffee tones' of my porter" Tags="|recipe|coffee|porter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8161" CreationDate="2013-01-01T16:31:38.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Black malt and Roasted Barley will deliver coffee notes.  Using anywhere from 0.5lb up to 1lb of either (or in combination) per 5 gallon batch is the norm.&#xA;Caramel notes are easily delivered from crystal/caramel malts.  I have used a full pound of Crystal 60L in a brown ale and it had a real nice toffee/caramel punch to it.  Using less than a pound of caramel or crystal malts is the norm per 5 gallon batch. Crystal malts come in a range of color/flavor values.  Try a mix of C60 and C40, or a combination of C60 and C80 for more of a darker fruit flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also find that black malt with crystal malt is the best way to get coffee tones.  As black malt alone tends to just taste like heavy roast.  The crystal character really helps carry the flavors to a nice place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2013-01-01T16:31:38.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2013-01-01T16:36:16.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the winter I have brewed in an averaged size two car garage with the bay doors closed if it was really cold out.  I use a two burner propane driven system and both burners run for most of the 4-5hour brewing session. &#xA;I have never had a problem with CO.&#xA;As a result I don't think you need to move much air.&#xA;TO be safe I'd simply try and set up your indoor equipment near a door or window, and use a small fan for make up air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A CO monitor nearby would help increase the safety level certainly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While CO is a real concern not to be taken lightly, the reality is I don't think we really create enough of it with properly functioning burners to be a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2013-01-01T16:36:16.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8154" CreationDate="2013-01-01T16:37:40.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A slightly stronger than normal PBW solution (or whatever cleanser you use for cleaning your brew equipment) will be all that's needed.  Plus some time and elbow grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2013-01-01T16:37:40.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8091" CreationDate="2013-01-01T22:31:37.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most ale yeast can survive some fairly warm temperatures. In some of the upper ranges, yeast will tend to produce more non-alcohol by-products than you probably want in a beer but it will still be alive and well. I would say that as long as both the starter and the beer you pitched it into are less than about 100°F and you brought the wort down to a more appropriate fermentation temperature fairly quickly, then you'll probably be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a big differential between your starter and your somewhat cooled wart, you might negatively impact yeast health (and thus the quality of fermentation), but for &quot;reasonable&quot; differentials (10-15°F),  I have never run into any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to quickly bring the wort to the recommended fermentation temperature and keep it there. At the tail end of fermentation, you might raise the temperature a few degrees so that the yeast has an extra opportunity to clean up any off flavors, but I certainly wouldn't stress out about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2054" LastActivityDate="2013-01-01T22:31:37.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8166" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8168" CreationDate="2013-01-01T23:37:36.330" Score="6" ViewCount="1163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a basic beer serving fridge out in the garage, just a few taps on the front and some bottles on the door. I'm developing a problem with what looks kinda like mold, I notice it mostly on the black rubberish top area but some on the stainless as well. It looks like it was peppered with a bunch of little tiny snowballs, white round and spread pretty evenly with some areas more concentrated then others. The mold substance isn't on anything else in the fridge; not on the walls or the bottles or on the door beer/gas lines... I have heard of people developing a mold on the ceiling of their sour cellars and it sounds like a &quot;good&quot; thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's going on? What is it? How do I get rid of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fridge temp: mid 30's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been going on for about 2-3 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T19:20:21.133" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T00:31:46.140" Title="White mold on my corney kegs?" Tags="|cleaning|corny-keg|mold|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8153" CreationDate="2013-01-02T00:43:41.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a &quot;good&quot; amount of yeast?  Did you use a starter/re-pitch?  Regardless I've scores of batches with White Labs WLP810 (which should be pretty much the same strain) and conclude it may take patience...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I lost one of my lagering units, I decided to re-visit this yeast.  I like the temperature flexibility/tolerance and often fermented at 59-60F.  I always found it slow to finish but had enough in the pipeline to make it worth the wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was not afraid to heat a week or so into the process and was always rewarded with fine beer.  I often had extensive primaries (weeks/months) when not heating during ferment and found the results no worse for the wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I did about 50 batches back-to-back with WLP862 (Cry Havoc) with typically identical results.  I am convinced these two strains are intimately related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2978" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T00:43:41.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8166" CreationDate="2013-01-02T13:15:49.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably from having too high of a humidity level in the fridge. I have this same problem in my fermentation fridge (develops darker spots of mold) and my keezer (no mold but moisture pools at the bottom of the freezer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just make it a point to wipe out the excess moisture from the walls of these two whenever I am messing with beer. I have considered using something like DampRid(?), which is that stuff that absorbs moisture from the air, but I don't know if it will be cost effective to do so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: so long as the moisture isn't causing corrosion on any non-stainless metal, and so long as the mold isn't getting &lt;strong&gt;into&lt;/strong&gt; the actual beer, I wouldn't worry too much about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T19:19:57.913" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T19:19:57.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8154" CreationDate="2013-01-03T01:21:20.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used brillo pads and some elbow grease. Just be careful not to scrub too hard or you might remove some paint. This has worked an every stove I have. Using some hot water doesn't hurt either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T01:21:20.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2013-01-03T01:30:01.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to brew indoors you should seriously consider using electricity. If done correctly death by CO and fire are much less of an issue. There are lots of great options for electric brew setups (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://theelectricbrewery.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://theelectricbrewery.com/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure your wiring is up to spec and use GFI outlets to reduce the risk of death by electrocution. Brewing safety should be priority number one. As we all know that drinking a homebrew while brewing is an imperative leading to at least one stupid mistake per brew session. Making the mistakes less like to be fatal is a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T01:30:01.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8173" CreationDate="2013-01-03T03:31:53.637" Score="0" ViewCount="2123" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I go converting my old refrigerator into a kegerator, I was wondering if there was a way to possible connect my keg(s) to a soda fountain? It may grate against the traditionalist tap handles, but I was just wondering about this before I go drilling into the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2293" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T23:06:14.397" Title="Would it be possible to connect a keg (or series of kegs) to a soda fountain?" Tags="|kegerator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8172" CreationDate="2013-01-03T18:17:34.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you mean using a soda fountain to dispense your beer, my understanding is that the taps on a soda fountailn aren't set up roght for serving beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T18:17:34.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8175" CreationDate="2013-01-03T19:04:25.890" Score="6" ViewCount="22801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a &quot;Magnum Apple Cider Kit&quot; 1.7Kg kit. Added 1 Kg of corn sugar + 300 gr brown sugar and oak chips. For the first 3 days it has been fermenting like crazy. Today (4th day) the fermentation seems to have stopped! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a hydrometre but I opened the fermenting bin and there were no bubbles (like flat, nothing at all), the temperature of the most is 20.5°C (so it's ok), I had a sample and it tasted sweet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first time ever and I have to say that over 4 days I opened it (the fermenting bin) 5 times. I wanted to see what was going on in there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First day I had a 5 cm krausen. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second day only nice white froth on top the most and I could hear a really strong fermentation going on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third day I didn't open it, but the airlock was bubbling like crazy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Today (4th day) nothing.... no bubbles at all!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal? The kit said the fermentation should take 7-8 days at temp. 20-28°C, but it's only 4 days!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2985" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-11-21T12:54:31.987" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T12:54:31.987" Title="Cider fermentation stopped after only 4 days. What to do?" Tags="|cider|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8174" CreationDate="2013-01-03T21:05:24.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Airlocks aren't really a great indicator as far as determining when fermentation is finished, so don't rely entirely on that. Also, Sometimes you may not see much krausen during fermentation, other times it will explode!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your delicious beverage could still be fermenting at a slow rate -- so slow that you might not notice it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where a hydrometer comes in handy, because you can take daily readings when it &lt;i&gt;looks&lt;/i&gt; like fermentation is done in order to verify it. If you take a reading for a couple days and the gravity remains the same, your yeast has done it's job and fermentation is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend getting yourself a hydrometer so you can check to be sure that it is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, it could be entirely possible that fermentation is already complete. Sometimes the yeast will work faster than others, and that's why it isn't entirely reliable to judge fermentation by using a calendar. I've had a hard lemonade that has been slowly fermenting for 2 months now. I've used this yeast for other batches and it's finished the job in as little as a week before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T21:05:24.567" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8174" CreationDate="2013-01-04T06:25:58.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreed take a hydrometer reading that will tell you exactly where you are in the fermentation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you didn't take an original gravity reading, straight apple cider should be around 1.050 - 1.060 (added sugar would increase this of coarse) so if you are less then this you have fermented some. the temp plays a big role (check the yeast manufacturers suggestion) a lower temp usually means slower ferment, and a fluctuation in temperature could effect the fermentation as well, yeast could do anything from completely hibernate (fluctuating into lower temp (again check manufacturer suggestions)), all the way to producing off flavors and quitting at high temps (high temps being 80-90 and above, depending on type of yeast...) highly unlikely though. I'm with &lt;em&gt;jsmith&lt;/em&gt; though, it's probably done or close to being done, AGAIN check the gravity and if it isnt there yet try warming it up and shake the carboy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T06:25:58.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-04T07:56:04.890" Score="4" ViewCount="20167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to run a few brews back-to-back to build up a stock of beer. However, I would not be able to store all of the bottles in my house and would be forced to place them in the garage. My garage does not have any electricity and therefore no heating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to protect my beer from freezing if the temperature gets to about -10°C (14°F)? And if so, what is the way to do this? Preferably without going out and buying a paraffin heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2392" LastEditorUserId="3022" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T00:55:50.697" LastActivityDate="2022-12-22T22:27:41.600" Title="Is there a way to protect beer from freezing in a garage with no electricity" Tags="|beer|storage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8174" CreationDate="2013-01-04T12:53:34.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;4 days at 68-69F sounds perfectly natural for beer fermentations, if your cider was around 5-7% ABV I see no reason to assume its not mostly or all done fermenting. Unless you allowed the cider to drop several degrees yesterday (thus stalling out the yeast), I would assume that they have done their job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a hydrometer and check it, but you're probably OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T12:53:34.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8172" CreationDate="2013-01-04T16:50:55.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use old, reconditioned Pepsi and Coke kegs (ball-lock and pin-lock respectively) for beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need to dispense beer from these types of keg is: the Keg, CO2, tubing from CO2 to Keg for pressurization, tubing from Keg to spigot/tap/or whatever to your cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a traditional setup for the soda machine would not work I would assume that if you had the CO2 hookup for the kegs you wanted to use, and then re routed the singe tubing for the beer to the spigots on the soda machine it should work. You just wouldn't have the carbonated soda coming out the same time as the syrup.  It would be pre-conditioned in the keg and come out already carbonated from the spout.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T16:50:55.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8177" CreationDate="2013-01-04T17:51:59.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;At -10°C I think you will need some sort of heating element. If you don't have electricity, you could try doing it swamp cooler style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the bottles in an insulated container - an old refrigerator unplugged,&#xA;a plastic cooler, or a DIY insulated box would all work (like a fermentation chamber). Put a thermometer in there to check on the temps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a heat source in the insulated container, some heated bottles of water (steel or aluminum bottles would be good since they're conductive) or bricks heated in the oven or something like that, swamp cooler style. Don't put the hot stuff too close to the bottles, you will want to avoid getting the beer hot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems like a lot of work to me, because you'll have to heat the heating source manually with the stove or oven or something, so you're probably better off finding a closet to store them in. But this approach will work, as a well-insulated box will maintain temp pretty well for many hours, as long as you monitor it for a while and figure out how long your non-electric heat sources give you before it cools down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2013-01-10T22:29:15.090" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T22:29:15.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8172" CreationDate="2013-01-04T23:06:14.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The soda fountain mixes syrup and soda water, a beer tap strictly dispenses beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were able to get the fountain to flow without adding water, and could properly control the pressure of the beer being dispensed I suppose it could work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The small syrup channels would probably cause you to use too much pressure for a good flow rate, which may cause really foamy beer (or a very, very slow pour).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T23:06:14.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2013-01-05T15:48:23.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find with the stronger flavour beers I prefer, priming with cane doesn't make a difference I can detect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm beginning to realise I'm in the minority on this &amp;amp; have a couple of beers in the cellar primed using brewing sugar (which i think is fructose) &amp;amp; will be giving the corn sugar a go...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2991" LastEditorUserId="2482" LastEditDate="2013-01-18T18:38:20.890" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T18:38:20.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8184" CreationDate="2013-01-06T00:52:02.010" Score="2" ViewCount="8976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an IPA that is ready to bottle.  I don't have any carbonation drops, so I'm considering using table sugar.  Apparently 250grams for the 60 bottles of beer in the tub is about right (equivalent to the drops) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I add it? Can iI mix it in with some water and open the fermentation tub and pour it in right before i bottle it?  That would save dolloping it in to each bottle.  Is that the way to go? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2013-01-06T13:25:19.183" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T00:39:25.733" Title="Carbonating using table sugar" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8183" CreationDate="2013-01-06T02:11:51.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go ahead and use table sugar -- it'll work fine to carbonate your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, 250g seems high to me. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot;&gt;This online calculator&lt;/a&gt; suggests that 4.6 oz, 130 grams is the right amount, assuming 12 oz bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your main concerns when adding the priming sugar are sanitation and proper dilution/distribution. If you don't ensure that the priming sugar is properly mixed with the beer, some bottles may carbonate more than others. The differences could be very dramatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My technique for bottling is as follows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the sugar using an accurate scale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put sugar in a sauce pan and add enough water to barely cover.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring to a boil. Simmer, covered, for 2 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour the sugar syrup into the bottom of the bottling bucket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack the beer from the fermenter into the bottling bucket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle the beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this technique, there's no need to stir as the turbulence from the racking process is sufficient to distribute the priming sugar solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When racking the beer, try to avoid splashing it. This incorporates oxygen and can lead to premature staling. (But since you're bottle conditioning your beer, this is less of a worry since the yeast should consume any introduced oxygen.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T02:11:51.253" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8177" CreationDate="2013-01-06T13:29:27.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the few occasions I have had beer freezer it led to a permanent haze forming in the beers.  Otherwise the beer was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without a power source even a well wrapped/insulated container of beer will lose its temp and get to the ambient -20 you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only option is to find a place inside or get power out there to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T13:29:27.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-06T15:49:30.483" Score="2" ViewCount="942" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I bought myself a pump and a chillizilla-type chiller and a chugger pump for christmas...thanks for the christmas bonus, Boss...also, silicone tubing and stainless fittings and such to make it work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I had everything plumbed in the basement to make sure that things were where they needed to be, I could run the pump full bore and get LOTS of water coming thru the outlet tube back into the pot. All was well, I thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, when I brewed with the new toys for the first time, I had to throttle the flow back to a trickle to keep from losing my prime coming out of the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I got done, I cleaned the system and ran PBW thru it again and it was back to running full stream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is the problem the sugar water being thicker than water or the heat? Or is there something else I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2970" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T17:35:18.100" Title="keeping the wort pump primed seems to have a learning curve" Tags="|chiller|pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8186" CreationDate="2013-01-06T17:35:18.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While sugar solution is thicker than water, it's only by 4-10% for a typical brew, so I doubt that is your problem. It's more likely a partial blockage or a connection that is letting in air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing that can cause a reduced flow - it's important to get all air out of the tubes that run from the kettle into the pump. I have the pump placed below the kettles so that the liquid will naturally run down and fill up the pump, displacing the air. Rocking the pump a little can also dislodge any stuck air bubbles in the pump head, since they will naturally want to rise up and out of the outlet. For this reason, it's best to have the flow through the pump going continually upwards, so air bubbles can easily escape.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get any air bubbles, restrict flow on the out side of the pump, and gently squeeze the inlet hose, this is usually sufficient to coax them out into the hose. Then slowly open the valve again up to full flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T17:35:18.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8189" CreationDate="2013-01-07T17:52:11.123" Score="1" ViewCount="2342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have three ciders going, two &amp;quot;spiced&amp;quot; ciders and one regular/standard whatever the straight apple squeezed cider (&amp;quot;Ryan's&amp;quot; brand if anyone is familiar) is called. This is my first attempt at cider, didn't do much research just got a great deal on cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;QUESTION:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my cider done for? can I rack it off the mold? is it safe to drink? what can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HERE'S THE SIMPLE STORY:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cider was on sale because it was close to &amp;quot;sell by&amp;quot; date but not expired yet, when I opened the half gallon jugs a couple of them had small chunks of mold on them. Because I had high hopes I just picked out the mold and dumped it in assuming the yeast would kick out some alcohol and protect it from any mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DETAILS:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well I would be writing if that were the case, one started molding right away (&amp;quot;spiced&amp;quot; on Lalvin D47 (Dry wine yeast)) o.g. was 1.052 and currently is 1.002, smells very moldy but looks very clear. when poured into graduated cylinder it appeared to be carbonated I would say around 3 volumes (yes airlock was used). the mold covers about half surface area, and is thin and white (Thicker and white then a Pellicle)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The second was a non-&amp;quot;spiced&amp;quot; on the same yeast, and it only has what I would describe as a pre-mold coagulated chunk 1&amp;quot; by 3&amp;quot; (very small in comparison) o.g. was 1.056 now is 1.002. small hint of mold smell but mostly spice cider smell.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The third is a &amp;quot;spiced&amp;quot; cider on 100% Brett B, this one was the last to mold but has a slightly thicker mold and also blue and white and covers an area about 2&amp;quot; by 2&amp;quot;. This one also cleared out very well but has zero attenuation, started at 1.052 and is currently the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FERMENTATION:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(all three fermented in the same conditions and in glass) started fermentation around the low 60's for about two weeks then moved into an area 68-70 deg for the remaining week and a half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T18:48:39.523" Title="Cider molding and wont go away but not getting worse?" Tags="|fermentation|cider|mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8188" CreationDate="2013-01-07T18:48:39.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice is to dump all three batches. It could be that the mold is non-toxic, but I personally would not be willing to take that chance. Besides, it's probably going to taste dreadful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference, if you suspect your juice is not entirely fresh, you can add sulphite at the rate of 1 campden tablet per gallon. This will knock back microbial activity and give your cultured yeast a chance to flourish. Pitch the yeast 24 hours after adding the sulphite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, since mold was visible when you pitched your yeast I suspect there was almost no chance of this cider turning out other than it did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T18:48:39.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8191" CreationDate="2013-01-07T23:59:38.507" Score="4" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing my first homebrew (using &lt;a href=&quot;http://brooklynbrewshop.com/beer-making-kits/everyday-ipa-1-gal-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this kit&lt;/a&gt;), and started fermentation 6 days ago. I've kept it in my basement, which is usually around 66F. The kit's instructions just tell me to let it ferment in a dark place for 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday my furnace went out, and the temperature's dropped to about 55F. Is this going to affect the brew? If it drops to the low 50s for the next couple days, will it ruin the batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could move the carboy to a friend's apartment where it's warmer, but will moving it be worse than letting it get cooler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3005" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T00:50:19.013" Title="House's furnace died while fermenting, what should I do?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8190" CreationDate="2013-01-08T00:50:19.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd leave it alone. After 6 days at 66F fermentation should be done or nearly done. Even if it isn't, most yeast will continue to metabolize sugars at 55 F. Once the heat comes back on, if the yeast haven't finished their work already, they'll become active again and finish the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T00:50:19.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-08T01:42:44.563" Score="0" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I are brewing 3 batches of beer for St. Patrick's Day this year. We are going to make a green pale ale, a milk stout, and we want to make an Irish Red. The unfortunate part is the only recipe I can find that I like is a clone-brew of MacQueen’s Nessie Original Red Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have/know where to find a good recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T03:14:06.900" Title="Irish Red Recipe" Tags="|beer|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-01-10T22:44:42.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-08T14:32:21.650" Score="1" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered more oak cubes than I currently need from an online store, since my local store stopped carrying them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any special considerations for storing these, and is there a shelf life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T16:09:49.037" Title="How should I store oak cubes to be used later?" Tags="|storage|oak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8193" CreationDate="2013-01-08T16:04:23.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could potentially be a transfer of water between the air and wood if not kept in bag (e.g. controlled environment), but I don't know if this matters. Moreover, white oak anatomy includes closed &lt;em&gt;tyloses&lt;/em&gt; which are cells that resist water and rot and are why white oaks are used in cooperage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't imagine there would be much loss of functionality (i.e. oaky-ness) over the time scale you would likely keep them.  I would store them in the dark in a zip-top bag.  If you are concerned about a loss of flavor, make a tea and taste it before you toss them in you brew after prolonged storage.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2912" LastEditorUserId="2912" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T16:09:49.037" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T16:09:49.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-08T19:34:15.600" Score="1" ViewCount="1693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a batch of Pale (first solo brew) and after pitching yeast (6 hours), noticed yellow clusters of what I think was mold.  I thought I had an infection, so I siphoned off, and collected supernatant in clean carboy (trying hard not to interrupt the surface where most of the visible yellow clusters were).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation ramped up and was vigorous all day yesterday (brewed on Sunday) but a day later, today, I noticed visibly that it slowed.  Now, I know fermentation is still going because I see bubbles, but what could be gong on here?  I've seen other beers rage for 2-3 days before slowing like this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New to brewing so I haven't really seen anything like this.  Good news is that I no longer see any yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure how I contaminated the beer, or if was even me...  Probably was, but that's not really important:  I will try even harder next time to be clean.  What I'm getting at is can mold cause slowing of fermentation and if so, what should I do - wait?  Anything else I should keep in mind?  Will it taste funny when done, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2905" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T16:32:16.500" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T16:32:16.500" Title="First Brew: Yellow Mold - Transfer to Carboy - Slowing of Fermentation" Tags="|contamination|primary-fermentation|mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9224" CreationDate="2013-01-08T20:11:42.803" Score="8" ViewCount="2546" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular way to manipulate a grain bill to change the color of the head of a beer?  Ie if you want an off-white head in an RIS as opposed to a brown head?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T11:27:12.123" Title="How to affect the color of head" Tags="|head|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8166" CreationDate="2013-01-09T00:20:44.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get the odd spot of mould developing in my keg fridge from time to time, particularly when switching between serving and fermentation temperatures. I keep a bottle of diluted bleach or sanitising solution in a spray bottle and give the inside of the fridge a good spray when raising the temperature of if I spot some mould developing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T00:20:44.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8183" CreationDate="2013-01-09T00:39:25.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Tobias's answer and the comments you could consider buying a set of jewellery scales. They are usually under 50 bucks and measure to 0.1 or 0.01 of a gram. It's overkill for home brewing but if you ever find another reason to buy them then they will come in handy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keg my brews but usually bottle 3-4 beers as well. This makes the bottling bucket a bit excessive. I just weigh up 5g or so of sugar and drop it in each bottle. Carb drops are probably simpler but I already had the scales and always forget to buy drops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T00:39:25.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8196" CreationDate="2013-01-09T02:11:38.720" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand the chemistry behind it, but its pretty straight forward. Roasted barley is unmalted, where chocolate or black patent has been malted.  When using roasted barley the head on a stout stays tanish in color.  When you rely on the malted versions of dark roasted grains they contribute darker colors to the head.  Think the difference between classic dry stout (all roasted barley) and a classic English Porter (primarily black patent and chocolate malts).  The dry stout has the off white head, where the porter carries that browner chocolately head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T02:11:38.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6625" CreationDate="2013-01-09T04:32:49.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just down I-5 in Portland.  I tend to use carboys for my fermentation vessels, so what I do is keep the box the carboy came in, cut a small hole in the bottom of the box, cut the top flaps off the box and make a sort of carboy sleeve that slips right back over the bottle and leaves the airlock sticking up from the small hole, so far it's worked fantastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3008" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T04:32:49.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8195" CreationDate="2013-01-09T13:18:18.157" Score="18" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...and after pitching yeast (6 hours), noticed yellow clusters of what I&#xA;  think was mold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mold isn't going to grow within 6 hours of chilling down the wort. What you saw was clumps of yeast from your pitch stuck to the sides of the fermentor or floating on top. Did you rehydrate your yeast (if using dry)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What I'm getting at is can mold cause slowing of fermentation and if&#xA;  so, what should I do - wait? Anything else I should keep in mind? Will&#xA;  it taste funny when done, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, mold will not cause slowing of fermentation, however you didn't have mold to begin with. As for the fermentation times, those are highly dependent on a variety of factors like: temperature, yeast count, yeast health, gravity of wort, oxygen levels at pitch, and more. Sometimes, the beer bubbles for 2 days, sometimes for 7. Sometimes NONE if you've got a leaky bucket! (the C02 escapes silently). Bottom line: &lt;strong&gt;don't worry about it.&lt;/strong&gt; So long as the beer starts fermenting &amp;amp; producing C02 within 24-36 hours, you will be OK. Use your nose to detect fermentation, it has a 'sharp' smell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best advice any newer brewer can get is this: &lt;strong&gt;leave the beer alone&lt;/strong&gt;. Once you see it start going, keep the temp steady for a few days, then &lt;strong&gt;walk away from the beer&lt;/strong&gt; for 3 weeks. Its so hard to do, but trust me, its worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to your exact question, if you &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; get some kind of infection, here's what to expect: The beer will continue to dry out past its normal point, it will start getting flavors like cherry pie, pineapple, leather, burnt rubber or band-aid, and if you bottled it, the bottles might start gushing or even exploding. Those are the signs of a true infection. If you left the beer in the carboy long enough, you'd see a &quot;spider web-like&quot; mold growing across the top sometimes, or sometimes it would look like little steeples or structures of mold on the surface of the wort. Fortunately, this is pretty rare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T13:18:18.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8192" CreationDate="2013-01-10T03:14:06.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from the bevy of recipe databases out there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipes?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;amp;q=red&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hopville&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beertools.com/library/search.php?style=72&amp;amp;category=none&amp;amp;grain=none&amp;amp;extract=none&amp;amp;adjunct=none&amp;amp;hop=none&amp;amp;text=&amp;amp;sort=recent&amp;amp;order=d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beertools&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewersfriend&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/newrcp/styleview.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tastybrew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtoad.com/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;amp;search=red%20ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BrewToad&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HBT&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most online homebrew supply shops offer pdf downloads of their recipes.  Really like NB's Irish Red? Grab the recipe, and give it a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, there are so many recipes out there I find it hard to separate the wheat from the chaff so to speak.  Google is your friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2617" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T03:14:06.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8204" CreationDate="2013-01-10T07:00:39.190" Score="1" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner. This is my second batch (and the first made from my own recipe idea). The equipment I have is the standard starter kit, made up of two large plastic buckets with spigots near the bottom of each one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last batch, I lost a huge amount of beer due to poor siphoning from fermenting bucket to bottling bucket. I wonder if siphoning was necessary at all! Palmer's book says that the spigots are good enough to use instead of siphoning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you recommend transferring the fermented beer into the bottling bucket? If I use the spigot, how can I be sure that it is mounted high enough above the yeast cake, so as not to transfer unwanted yeast by-products into my bottling bucket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3009" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T13:27:52.023" Title="What is the recommended procedure for bottling given this setup?" Tags="|bottling|siphon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8203" CreationDate="2013-01-10T13:27:52.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spend the $10-15 on an 'Auto Siphon' from your local brew shop, or your favorite online outlet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/auto-siphon-1-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/auto-siphon-1-2.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can collect almost every drop of wort off the top of a tight yeast cake with one of these bad boys by titling the carboy as the level gets low to make sure the bottom of the cane is submerged in those last 2-3 inches of wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with the spigot, as you are noticing, is that you won't easily be able to tell if the spigot mouth is above or below the yeast cake. And some yeast strains compact harder than others (Safale S04 is very firm, for example), so two otherwise identical wort with different yeasts would have different heights on the yeast cake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T13:27:52.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="876" CreationDate="2013-01-11T18:21:38.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, hops contain two major organic acids generally refereed to as alpha acids and beta acids. When hops are added to boiling wort about 40% of the alpha acids undergo a thermal isomerization to form isoalpha acids.  Iso-alpha acids are the actual bitter compound found in beer. When people talk about IBU they are talking about the concentration of isoalpha acids in beer - at the ppm level. Note: Alpha acids are only slightly bitter, perhaps 1/6 that of isoalpha acids. Beta acids are not bitter.  During fermentation virtually all the beta acids and most of the alpha acids and some of the isoalpha acids absorb onto the yeast. As a results most beers (that have not been dried hopped) contain no beta acids, and less than 1 ppm alpha acids. Most home brewers use 30% to estimate the alpha acids to isoalpha acids utilizations when boiling hops for 60 minutes. This is correct since about 20% of the isoalpha acids formed during boiling absorb onto the yeast. Don't waste your time trying to factor in any bitterness from beta acids or alpha they are most likely no present in your beer and even if they are they're at such low levels they're insignificant. Prost !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T18:21:38.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8208" CreationDate="2013-01-13T13:18:34.023" Score="3" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought some oxyclean to remove labels from a lot of bottles. What I do to remove the labels is: put the bottles standing in the bucket, fill each bottle with water, and then fill the bucket with water to just above the neck labels and add the oxyclean. I did this because I'm not sure if I should get the oxyclean inside the actual bottle.  No one mentions that you shouldn't, but I read it is not a food safe product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I not worry about this? If not, I can fit more bottle in the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what is the proper way to clean the bottles after the oxyclean soak? I just rinsed the inside and out with fresh water a couple of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1401" LastEditorUserId="1401" LastEditDate="2013-01-13T13:34:32.307" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T00:46:55.207" Title="Oxyclean safe inside the bottle" Tags="|labels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8207" CreationDate="2013-01-13T18:25:20.063" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you rinse Oxiclean thoroughly, there's no problem getting it in the bottle.  I've been doing it for 15 years and I'm not dead yet!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T18:25:20.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9210" CreationDate="2013-01-14T06:17:01.570" Score="6" ViewCount="2830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a recipe in front of me for a Saison of the spicy variety.  It calls for the addition of one Jalapeno pepper, seeds included.  First off, I do enjoy a fair amount of spice (far more than anyone I know or eat with regularly would enjoy), and one jalapeno that the recipe calls for seems sort of weak for my tastes, hence the inclusion of habaneros should I decide to get squirrely on my limits as a mortal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, will the addition of these peppers have adverse reactions on the yeast?  Since yeast is a living organism, and the spicy defenses of these peppers are genetically engineered to fight off threats, will the spice hurt the yeast growth/fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T22:44:50.463" Title="Will Jalapeno or Habanero peppers adversely effect yeast" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-14T10:21:52.760" Score="4" ViewCount="2983" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using some nylon stockings as a hop-bag for dry hopping in my fermentor. Are they safe to use or will they be degraded by the wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T15:20:16.650" Title="Can I use nylon stockings as a hop-bag in wort?" Tags="|equipment|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8209" CreationDate="2013-01-14T14:33:20.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a great article from Zymurgy that you can read that talks about chilies in beer.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/2500/ndzym02-Chile_Beer.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/2500/ndzym02-Chile_Beer.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the article the main issues with using chilies in beer will be reduced head retention from the oils present and a haze in the finished beer.  There is no mention of a problem with fermentation and they recommend using the chilie in either like a dry hop or like a first wort hop or even directly in the bottle for maximum punch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2965" LastEditorUserId="2965" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T18:27:23.820" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T18:27:23.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9209" CreationDate="2013-01-14T17:36:58.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nylon is usually pretty safe to put into beer. You should wash them and sterilize them before putting them in the fermentor. If you boil them that should do the trick, and so long as there aren't any holes after boiling should be fine to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T17:36:58.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9209" CreationDate="2013-01-15T15:20:16.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are completely safe to use.  I personally steer clear of colored nylon stockings.  If you're worried about bacteria you can soak them in a bleach mixture overnight, rise out, and then boil them.  You could also soak them in Star San after boiling (if you're a germaphobe like me!).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you tie them and ensure there aren't any holes.  Also, if you're using a lot of hops you can use multiple nylon stockings so your hops aren't as bunched up.  I also use a light stainless steal &quot;mixer&quot; from a protein bottle to keep them from floating at the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3027" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T15:20:16.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8207" CreationDate="2013-01-15T15:23:59.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is a great way to clean bottles.  Like Denny said, make sure you rinse very well.  Also, don't make the mistake of thinking that oxyclean is a sanitizer.  You still need to sanitize prior to bottling.  Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3027" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T00:46:55.207" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T00:46:55.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-15T21:25:57.550" Score="3" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;After seeing that Guinness was making a black lager I decided that I wanted to try to make a darker version of a lighter colored beer. Having recent success with a Witbier I decided that it would be a good candidate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recreated the Witbier with the addition of black malt, the taste is very close to the original Witbier recipe. I'd like to enter this one into a contest, but I have no idea what category would be best. As far as flavor goes, it's a Witbier, but the color is completely wrong for the style. Specialty Beer (Category 23) makes sense, but I'd rather be in a category with similar beers and 23 is very open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best category for this beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T00:49:24.107" Title="BJCP Category for a Black Witbier" Tags="|beer-styles|bjcp|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9215" CreationDate="2013-01-16T00:43:17.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Category 23 is pretty much it.  There isn't another category where the flavors of witte would fit with that dark color.  People who are making CDA are currently stuck with Cat 23.  The secret to cat 23 is making a beer that is completely flawless.  So that the &quot;greatness&quot; of it can shine through despite it not having a defined style.  Second to that is that if you are doing something different that difference must be the showcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, that black witte better be black, not brown or tan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T00:43:17.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9215" CreationDate="2013-01-16T00:49:24.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, technically, you can only lose up to 3 points for appearance. However, as people &quot;drink with their eyes&quot;, I think you'd struggle to do well amongst other witbiers in the category, assuming it's not disqualified up front for being entered out of style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd personally enter it as a specialty beer and give enough info that hopefully the judges would choose to judge it in an appropriate order. If you declare witbier as being the base beer and it matches the other stylistic components of a witbier, then you should have a good chance at doing well with it. Witbiers have a very characteristic flavour profile, so I think you'd run in to problems in any other category, with the possible exception of 21A (Spice, Herb, or Vegetable Beer). Even in that category, there is a chance you could be marked down for being out of style with the base beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is an option for the competition, you could enter it multiple categories; once as a witbier and once as a specialty beer and see how you go. Another useful thing to do is judge it yourself under the different categories and see how it compares to the descriptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T00:49:24.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2013-01-16T02:06:16.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why don't you make a gueuze?  Or actually keep making gueuze batches over the years, but of course you will be blending, so in 21 years, some fraction of that original batch will hit your nephew's palate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T02:06:16.917" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-01-16T02:06:16.917" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9227" CreationDate="2013-01-16T11:42:40.967" Score="2" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess anyone doing beer is impatient to taste his &quot;creation&quot;, and I sometimes have less patience than average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What beer (I prefer ale) could I brew to have it ready to drink as soon as possilbe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T13:03:28.250" Title="How to make a beer which is quickly ready to drink" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-16T16:10:59.687" Score="4" ViewCount="961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mobile bar business and wanted to add draught beers to our menu.  I am a layman with regards to this but I understand how the basic system works using a CO2 (or 70/30 CO2 &amp;amp; Nitrogen) and a beer cooler.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is about how long the opened kegs will last seeing as I will need to disconnect them for travel and store them unrefridgerated.  Will they last until the next event?  Also will the gas be easy to disconnect and use again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3033" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T01:55:22.167" Title="Disconnecting a keg" Tags="|beer|keg|gas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9222" PostTypeId="7" CreationDate="2013-01-16T17:59:41.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the brewing process&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brew appreciation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="1163" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T17:59:41.913" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T17:59:41.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9223" PostTypeId="7" CreationDate="2013-01-16T18:03:06.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Selling alcohol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Buying commercially brewed products&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Irresponsible consumption of alcohol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Anything not directly related to homebrewing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Questions that are primarily opinion-based&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Questions with too many possible answers or that would require an extremely long answer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="1163" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T18:03:06.923" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T18:03:06.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8196" CreationDate="2013-01-16T19:54:03.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you want red food coloring.  This will definitely give you a pink head and won't be noticable in the dark stout beer itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this every year with green coloring on St. Patricks day and it works great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few drops per 12oz beer should be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2380" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T19:54:03.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8209" CreationDate="2013-01-16T22:44:50.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottled a batch of hef last Summer, half jalapeño, half habanero.  What I found was poor head retention, as suggested by the Zymurgy article.  It hit the target ABV, but overcarbonated (likely due to the extra sugars from the peppers, which I didn't account for).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I discovered was that the habanero beer was ready to drink after only two weeks in the bottle, but the jalapeño needed closer to six weeks before it really hit the flavors I was looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3035" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T22:44:50.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9221" CreationDate="2013-01-17T01:55:22.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you aren't using air purged cask type &quot;kegs&quot; you'll be fine.&#xA;Disconnecting a keg from the hook up seals the keg from the outside air, and contains the pressure already applied.&#xA;Assuming you're using the proper pressure to dispense, the beer's carbonation level will remain the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer is unfiltered, or has been naturally carbonated, there will be yeast sediment in the keg.  Moving those kegs and serving too soon will result in hazy beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, some say that shaking a keg will create foam.  And once that foam has formed it reduces the capacity of the beer to make more foam.  I.E. Beer has a limited amount of foam positive compounds present, and when they are gone they are gone.  Not likely a big deal with the first few moves, but if the keg isn't getting finished quickly you might noticed diminished head formation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T01:55:22.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9219" CreationDate="2013-01-17T13:03:28.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stick to low OG.  1.035 - 1.045&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you have a healthy fermentation:  Right amount of healthy yeast, nutrients, proper temperature, aeration, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To clear the yeast quickly after fermentation, you might try clarifiers, cold crashing or filtering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T13:03:28.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-17T15:16:42.270" Score="2" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 6 days in primary I went to move bucket and the spigot broke. Managed to keep it in place while attaching a hose and transferring the wort. There was a ring around the top of the bucket where the liquid was and very little sediment at the bottom. It's been in a glass carboy for 24 hours now and there is about 1 &amp;amp; 1/2 inch of foam at the top as well as a lot of sediment at the bottom with a fair amount of movement, no clarity at all. (English Ale) Am I screwed ? 1 st batch obviously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3037" LastEditorUserId="2482" LastEditDate="2013-01-23T21:16:05.303" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T21:16:05.303" Title="Spigot broke on primary fermentation bucket" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9228" CreationDate="2013-01-17T16:21:55.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shawn, there's a good chance everything will be fine.  You might as well let things go to completion and find out for sure.  For future reference, I'd recommend buckets without spigots for fermenting.  Besides the drawback you discovered, I've found it's difficult to keep the spigots cleaned and sanitized enough to use the for xfers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T16:21:55.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9231" CreationDate="2013-01-17T18:00:22.230" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife found some cheap soda bottles at an antique store and I was wondering if anyone knew if I can use them for bottling my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3038" LastEditorUserId="2482" LastEditDate="2013-01-23T21:15:53.853" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T13:14:52.627" Title="Can I use old Crush or RC bottles for bottling?" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9230" CreationDate="2013-01-17T21:54:29.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They may be able to be recapped, but you may want to reconsider if they are not brown/amber bottles.  The other colors of glass can lead to troubled brews (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/wizard/article/section/121-mr-wizard/701-glass-colors-blow-off-method-mr-wizard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2912" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T21:54:29.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1337" CreationDate="2013-01-17T22:43:32.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a section of my pantry that I use to ferment, once fermentation is complete I rack to corny kegs and store them under an end-table. About 8 kegs can fit under the end table, with two other kegs in my kegerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to be brewing more than I can drink, so I'm probably going to have to clean out a closet in the near future. I have one closet with 6 cases of bottled beer on the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T22:43:32.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-18T00:46:46.317" Score="-1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can we help our fellow geek solve his &lt;a href=&quot;https://plus.google.com/u/0/108176814619778619437/posts/fd1kQFczktz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;homebrew problem&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making a barley wine. My boil gravity should be 1.106. Hydrometer reads 1.042, and at 140°F (60°C) the adjusted SG comes out to more like 1.06. Iodine test says I have all the sugars out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mashed 22 pounds (10kg) at 148°F (64.4°C) for 90 minutes, just like the book said. I have collected just about 6 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I sparge too fast? Do I put the wort back into the mash tun and keep it there for X minutes or something? Am I going to have to put LME or DME into the boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be very unhappy if I [expletive] this up beyond salvaging. Any help you can give me would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2247" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T20:03:06.343" Title="How can I recover this barleywine batch?" Tags="|barleywine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2960" CreationDate="2013-01-18T02:04:19.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going through the very same scenario currently with my last 2 5 gal batches. One batch I stored in the garage immediately after bottling.  This I can understand, but the last batch stayed in the kitchen @67* and after 10 days now, no joy. I have brewed 45 batches of all grain, never had an issue.  What gives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3040" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T02:04:19.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-18T02:27:17.117" Score="0" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;So earlier I had mentioned the broken spigot on my primary that I managed to siphon into a glass carboy. It had been in primary for 6 days . Earlier I noticed that there was about an inch &amp;amp; 1/2 of foamy / spungy substance on top after the transfer, Came home this eve, bout 8 hours later &amp;amp; the foam has settled &amp;amp; there doesn't seem to be any activity at all.. Is this batch gonna spoil ? Is it any good? Should I just let it sit in there for another week or so? It's an English ale. There isn't any clarity at all... Don't really know what to do... Help again!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3037" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T08:29:22.517" Title="Fermentation #2" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9235" CreationDate="2013-01-18T03:28:02.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds completely normal.  Don't even think about it for the next two weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T03:28:02.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9235" CreationDate="2013-01-18T08:29:22.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The foam on top was krausen - it's a mix of yeast, proteins, hop oils. During your original primary, temperatures fluctuated from 63 to 70C, so it's quite likely that fermentation wasn't complete after 6 days, and when you transferred to the carboy, fermentation continued, possibly more vigorously since the yeast were roused and resuspended as part of the transfer to the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once primary fermentation is done, the krausen will often fall back into the beer. You can leave the beer for a further 2 weeks after this to condition and clean up. If you're impatient, you can bottle after a week, but you'll need typically 2 weeks conditioning in the bottle before the beer is at its best and fully carbonated. (By all means taste the beer before then just to get a feel for how &quot;green&quot; beer tastes, and how the carbonation is progressing.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T08:29:22.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9240" CreationDate="2013-01-18T13:01:03.987" Score="2" ViewCount="4628" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe it is just because I am not a native Wnglish speaker, but I do not exactly know the meaning of those two words. What do aroma and flavor mean, what do they refer to and what is the difference between the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2013-01-19T17:36:41.293" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T17:36:41.293" Title="Aroma and flavor" Tags="|flavor|aroma|taste|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9233" CreationDate="2013-01-18T13:03:01.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't (shouldn't) go back to the mash tun after the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that you would get some tannins instead of more sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why you got a lower OG, perhaps it was something on your mash?&#xA;- Grains crushed too coarsely?&#xA;- Mash temperature?&#xA;- Mash style (batch vs fly?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since by now you are probably already on the fermentor, there are only 2 things you can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - Leave it as it is and enjoy a good honest to god beer (probably over 6%)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - Add more fermentables to it, either LME, DME or sugars to reach your planned OG, at the risk of the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go with 1 and leave the barley wine for the next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, which book are you following?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastEditorUserId="2295" LastEditDate="2013-01-18T18:52:56.207" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T18:52:56.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9238" CreationDate="2013-01-18T13:12:57.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;An biology take on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aroma: Perceived through your nose&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flavor: Mostly perceived through your tongue although the aroma also helps your brain on forming the overall impression (think how things taste 'bland' when your have a flu and your nose is blocked)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T13:12:57.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9273" CreationDate="2013-01-18T14:21:54.603" Score="3" ViewCount="2322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using this recipe for a start&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winepress.us/forums/index.php?showtopic=6114&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.winepress.us/forums/index.php?showtopic=6114&lt;/a&gt; (Joe Mattioli's Ancient Orange and Spice Mead)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 gallon batch &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;3 1/2 lbs Clover or your choice honey or blend (will finish sweet) &#xA;1 Large orange (later cut in eights or smaller rind and all) &#xA;1 small handful of raisins (25 if you count but more or less ok) &#xA;1 stick of cinnamon &#xA;1 whole clove ( or 2 if you like - these are potent critters) &#xA;optional (a pinch of nutmeg and allspice )( very small ) &#xA;1 teaspoon of Fleishmann’s bread yeast ( now don't get holy on me &#xA;     --- after all this is an ancient mead and that's all we had back then) &#xA;Balance water to one gallon &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to replace (all or some of) the spices with ginger, but I do not have any idea how much should it be. How can I estimate a sensible amount to use in order to have a pleasant distinctive (but not excessive) flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="2869" LastEditDate="2013-01-23T13:25:12.530" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T19:37:42.267" Title="How much ginger should I add to my mead?" Tags="|recipe|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9238" CreationDate="2013-01-18T15:42:07.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of the basic senses, flavor comes from the sense of taste, which is primarily from the tongue. There are 5 types of flavor the tongue can detect: sweet, sour, salt, bitter and savory (the last one is a relatively new discovery.) Our sense of smell can detect an almost infinite number of different smells, since a single smell is really a combination of scents (e.g. the smell of blackberries is at least 63 different compounds in a specific proportion.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But quite often something you taste also has an aroma which you smell at the same time. So when you put something in your mouth recognize it, such as an apple, it's often the combination of the taste and the smell that you perceive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to beer, many of the things we taste also have an aroma, which helps influence how we perceive it when we drink the beer, so for things like malt and hops, the aroma and taste sometimes go hand in hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also things that have relatively little aroma compared to their strong taste, such as water salts, Maillard reaction compounds from browning the malt, bittering acids from the hops (and to some extent, the hop oils that give flavor). So, aroma alone cannot give the complete picture - which I guess is one reason we also drink the beer and not just sit around sniffing it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-01-18T16:16:43.030" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T16:16:43.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9233" CreationDate="2013-01-18T17:33:46.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.060 will make a perfectly acceptable beer (albeit not a barley wine), BUT your bitterness to gravity ratio will be way off. The perceived bitterness of a beer is dependent on the starting and finishing gravities. A high gravity beer finishes sweeter than a low gravity beer, and that sweetness reduces the perceived bitterness. If you hopped the beer with the intention of getting a finishing gravity around 1.025 and your beer actually finishes at 1.014, it will be more bitter than you intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a long winded way of saying that, in order to create a balanced beer, I'd use DME to bring the gravity up closer to your target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-01-18T17:40:33.417" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T17:40:33.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9247" CreationDate="2013-01-20T15:25:55.927" Score="0" ViewCount="1038" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 5 Litre (1.3 US gal) pot is the biggest pan I have at present. I would like to make some all grain batches. How much beer can I brew with such a small pan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2013-01-24T19:55:18.290" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T19:55:18.290" Title="How much beer can I do with a 5L pot" Tags="|all-grain|process|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9249" CreationDate="2013-01-20T15:52:01.663" Score="1" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;What material are good for mashing/boiling. I think stainless steel and copper are good, what about aluminum and enamel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="2869" LastEditDate="2013-01-21T08:55:01.370" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T06:29:36.773" Title="What materials are good for mashing/boiling container" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9245" CreationDate="2013-01-20T16:02:49.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your pan is 5L, you will only be able to make less than that, depending on how much of your wort evaporates during the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps 3,5 to 4L, unless you do multiple boils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go and get a bigger pan or look at starting with extract brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T16:02:49.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9250" CreationDate="2013-01-20T16:13:29.823" Score="11" ViewCount="39244" Body="&lt;p&gt;After boiling pellets how can I deal with them? Is there a simple way to get them out of the wort, or can I leave them during fermentation? In that case will I be sure they will drop on the bottom and not cause problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2013-01-24T19:55:13.953" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T20:26:29.140" Title="How do you strain pellet hops out of wort or beer?" Tags="|hops|boil|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9246" CreationDate="2013-01-20T16:14:00.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both are fine, my pans are all aluminum as Stainless on that size is hard to find and expensive over here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would cook on it you can brew on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be careful with what you use to clean them, John Palmer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter2-2-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;has some tips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastEditorUserId="2295" LastEditDate="2013-01-20T16:59:36.443" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T16:59:36.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9248" CreationDate="2013-01-20T16:57:15.790" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the pellets will dissolve during boil and settle down to the bottom of your kettle when you cool your wort. Then, when transferring to the fermentor you can just leave them behind (easier to do with a siphon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a hop bag - put the pellets on the bag, when you are done with the boil simply pull the bag out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T16:57:15.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9252" CreationDate="2013-01-21T01:24:05.287" Score="6" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just watched a Brewing TV epsiode on brewing-in-a-bag (BIAB). They took 7lb (3.2KG) of grains, and 5 US Gallon (19 Litres) of water. After mashing they had 4 US Gallons (15 Litres) of 1.052 gravity wort. After a 60 minute boil they had 3 US Gallon (11 Litres) at 1.060 gravity to ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never tried brewing with grain so would like to give it a go. However I live in a small apartment and only have a 5 litre cooking pot. Would scaling this down to just 21% of the batch size work? (i.e. 660 grammes of grain and 4 litres of water - probably yielding only 2.4 litres of 1.060)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also thinking, to speed the cooling and increase the batch size I could dilute the batch with cold water to get about 3.5 litres at 1.042.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3022" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T02:33:52.597" Title="Can BIAB be scaled down to tiny batches?" Tags="|small-space|recipe-scaling|small-batch|biab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9251" CreationDate="2013-01-21T02:33:52.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah you can scale it down as much as you want . Stove top brews are very easy to manage. The only thing to keep in mind is your efficiency, on a stove top and with a smaller amount of water it can be difficult to perfectly manage your mash temp, because smaller volumes respond more quickly to heat. But with a good thermometer with an alarm (10$ digital meat thermometer from a supermarket) and a bit of love you can definitely do it. As far as the cooling/cutting with cold water your only concern is infection. If you boil that water ahead of time and put it in the fridge (in a sterilized container) you will minimize the risk, but you can never totally eliminate it when using a post-boil additive like that. Distilled water is your best bet in that situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of brew are you planning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T02:33:52.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9248" CreationDate="2013-01-21T13:47:15.510" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are siphoning your beer out of a flat bottom kettle/pot a whirlpool can be very effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you are done chilling put your brew pot in the location that you plan to siphon from.  Using a clean and sanitized spoon stir that wort up into a good vortex.  Once the whirlpool has started, remove the spoon and replace the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then go about cleaning up from your session.  Sanitize your fermentor and siphon equipment, prepare your yeast.  If you give the pot 30 minutes at least to settle down much of the break material and pellet hops will get pulled to the center bottom of the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can remove the lid and siphon from the side of the pot without pulling too much of the gunk.  Some won't hurt, but doing it this way will help you get much less of it if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T13:47:15.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9248" CreationDate="2013-01-21T14:17:21.260" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a bucket for my fermentor so I bought a steel mesh strainer.  I then sanitize the strainer with starsan and place the strainer across the top of the bucket and run the wort through it.  This strains out the hop gunk and helps with aeration by turning the wort into droplets as it falls into the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2965" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T14:17:21.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1583" CreationDate="2013-01-21T14:30:52.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewingtv.com/episodes/2011/8/10/brewing-tv-episode-42-kings-coolship.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Episode 42&lt;/a&gt; of Brewing TV has Jeremy King harvesting wild yeast. One process is described at 5min 15sec in the video, but was basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He steeped 6 kernels of barley in 4ml of wort. Then over time repeatedly doubled the wort till final reaching 5 US gal. That resulted in three living organisms in the beer (one bacteria and two wild yeasts). This couldn't ferment beyond 3% alcohol, so he killed off the bacteria with chlorine dioxide and sent the yeast samples away to a lab. The lab isolated the two yeasts. One tasted horrible but the other was usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3022" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T14:30:52.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9257" CreationDate="2013-01-21T14:46:00.620" Score="5" ViewCount="1324" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any quality difference between the two? Dry malt extract is way more convenient for me, but are there any downsides? Can I use just DME (and no liquid malt extract) with no problems in some recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T00:39:13.223" Title="Quality difference between LME and DME" Tags="|malt|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9256" CreationDate="2013-01-21T15:06:18.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;LME is 20% water, so if you're changing a recipe, make your conversions appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Provided they're both fresh&lt;/em&gt;, I can't speak to noticing any quality differences, but that's just me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2617" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T15:06:18.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9256" CreationDate="2013-01-21T16:30:24.780" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;DME stays fresh far longer than LME.  Old, oxidized LME has been pointed to as the source of &quot;cidery&quot; off flavors in homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T16:30:24.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9256" CreationDate="2013-01-21T17:50:33.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience there's no effect on the quality of the beer, and I've also found DME to be the preferred ingredient if I have a choice, because of the convenience. You'll also probably find a bigger variety of DME (sometimes even specific to a single grain) at your brew shop because it's the more popular of the two, so developing your own recipes is very easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T17:50:33.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9248" CreationDate="2013-01-22T00:40:50.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We filter the trub out through a sanitized fine mesh bag during siphoning. This way we don't worry about about the siphon pulling the trub - it ends up in what we call a trub sack, from which more wort is squeezed out while pulling it out of the fermenter. Make sure not to drop the bag into the fermenter, as trub sack may get heavy during the siphon. Not sure if there are any downsides to this method, we find it easy and seems to do the job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XyYOr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2397" LastEditorUserId="2397" LastEditDate="2013-01-23T05:47:52.920" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T05:47:52.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2013-01-22T09:01:38.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just looked up what the requirements for a gas powered cooking stove in germany are (quite common if you are heating with gas), and the regulations say that you need a room of at least 20m3 volume to be allowed to operate this and &quot;sufficent&quot; venting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest risk is the gas though, so I would suggest you install a gas alarm in the room. The CO2 is also dangerous, but you will notice CO2 very early (your body reacts to it, giving you the impression of bad air very early), gas might be odorless...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T09:01:38.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9264" CreationDate="2013-01-22T14:49:58.753" Score="1" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lager in primary fermentation, with the temp in the fridge around 10C. The fridge smells of fermentation and the bubbler is not level, but I have not seen a single bubble escape from the bubbler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first lager, so I am not sure if I am doing something wrong, or if this low activity is normal for a cold fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter that I made seemed to be fairly active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will a lager ever cause the bubbler to &quot;purr&quot;, or is a very slow bubbler activity normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have not opened the fermenter since brewday last weekend and I have not taken new hydrometer readings either. Will do so tonight.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T14:54:10.860" Title="What activity to expect when fermenting a lager?" Tags="|fermentation|lagering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9263" CreationDate="2013-01-22T14:54:10.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you have a leak in the lid of your fermenter. &#xA;You should see some bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your hydrometer read shows that the beer attenuated, just make sure the lid is well closed and follow your normal fermenting schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T14:54:10.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9268" CreationDate="2013-01-22T21:26:24.473" Score="0" ViewCount="757" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll make a cider with Lalvin EC-1118, but I want to know if there's a chance to harvest the yeast cake after fermentation. Normally, I don't have problems reusing ale yeast, but this champagne yeast I don't have clue if the wash process is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T11:27:59.010" Title="Can Lalvin EC-1118 be reused?" Tags="|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9256" CreationDate="2013-01-23T00:39:13.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than the extra water in LME there's no quality difference in my experience. There is a very slight difference in handling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LME is hard to use a partial quantity as it sticks to everything, making it difficult to measure out accurate weight or volume. For that reason I prefer DME, though pouring DME into a steaming wort does cause some of the crystals in the packaging to absorb the steam and turn sticky (but it's negligible) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T00:39:13.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9248" CreationDate="2013-01-23T00:54:30.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make a easy pellet strainer bag with cheap parts from a hardware store.  This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Home-Brewing-Grain-and-Hops-Strainer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; offers easy instructions. Instead of one large dowel rod, one can use thread steel rods with washers and nuts in a plus shape to position in on a kettle and not slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Home-Brewing-Grain-and-Hops-Strainer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Home-Brewing-Grain-and-Hops-Strainer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3058" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T00:54:30.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9265" CreationDate="2013-01-23T11:27:59.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not made any cider yet, but there should be no problem in reusing the yeast with one exception: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have so much fermentables that the cider would finish sweet, you have killed the yeast, so that the cake only contains dead yeast (I am thinking of having a potential alcohol level that is higher than what the yeast can tolerate). Most yeasts can tolerate up to 12%, but I have seen yeasts up to 18% and heard of some above that. (Your yeast tolerates up to 18% according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lalvinyeast.com/strains.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lalvinyeast.com/strains.asp&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside of reusing the yeast of a wine, mead or cider might be that the yeast is getting stressed by the alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest that you simply try it and see if you get good results (which is what matters most). If the fermentation doesn't start in a timely fashion you can always pitch some fresh yeast...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T11:27:59.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2725" CreationDate="2013-01-23T11:43:35.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pour my wort into a bottling bucket and then letting it freefall from the spigot into the fermenting bucket about 2 feet below it.  It's easy and it works well for me.  I put aeration on the &quot;art&quot; side of brewing as opposed to the &quot;science&quot; side b/c I have no idea how to calculate O2 parts per million in my beer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I watched my buddy &quot;shake&quot; his wort to aerate it and dropped the bucket, the lid broke, and his garage was covered with 5 gallons of &quot;floor beer.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3027" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T11:43:35.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-23T14:24:13.393" Score="4" ViewCount="17851" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been taught to look down on breweries that use corn in their beer, because it's a cheaper ingredient, and obviously men would never put corn in their beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, why would you put flaked corn in your beer?  I've heard generically of adding corn to more closely approximate a commercial clone, but that leaves me questioning, in what way does it change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T21:55:05.890" Title="What effect does adding flaked corn to a recipe have?" Tags="|ingredients|recipe|adjuncts|corn|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9270" CreationDate="2013-01-23T15:11:24.470" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't comment yet, so here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/article/indices/38-ingredients/94-adjuncts-explained&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;.  The link takes you to a BYO article that does a good job of explaining adjuncts in brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2912" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T15:11:24.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9270" CreationDate="2013-01-23T16:40:12.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Corn will lighten the body of the beer and add a slightly sweet, &quot;corny&quot; flavor.  It's subtle, but it's there.  Corn is not just a way to cut corners.  One of the finest Trappist breweries, Rochefort, reportedly uses corn in their beers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T16:40:12.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9241" CreationDate="2013-01-23T19:26:29.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this an answer, but why not make a ginger extract and add post-fermentation to taste?  You essentially have two possible methods, the first being preferable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.)  Make a tincture with the ginger.  Chop it or puree it finely, then add vodka or grain alcohol, cover and rest for one week, put through a strainer, and add the homemade extract in small doses until you like the way it tastes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.)  Same method, but add the chopped ginger to water, bring to a boil, then simmer for 10 minutes or so.  Again, add to taste.  The downside is some of the volatile aromatics might boil off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T19:26:29.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9241" CreationDate="2013-01-23T19:37:42.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It ultimately depends on which ingredient you substitute for it, if you do sub and not just add. Cloves for example are pretty strong, so if you left them out it would take less ginger to have an effect. It also depends on the source of the ginger (from the actual root? liquid extract? powdered?) but if you're just going with easy-to-find-and-manage ingredients, &lt;strong&gt;I would estimate about 1.5 to 2 tbsp of powdered or crushed ginger would do the trick without being overwhelming.&lt;/strong&gt; That's a good strong amount, but no matter which way you stack it this meade is going to be pretty flavor-packed, so it will take more ginger than average to give the &quot;distinctive&quot; flavor you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That recipe actually sounds pretty interesting, I might have to try it out! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T19:37:42.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9277" CreationDate="2013-01-24T01:25:33.040" Score="3" ViewCount="1035" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kome koji is usually prepared by adding commercially-purchased koji-kin&#xA;to steamed rice and allowing it to grow. Is it possible to propagate the koji-kin by adding kome koji to steamed rice, allowing one to spend less money on koji-kin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3060" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2013-01-29T23:35:22.747" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T23:35:22.747" Title="Propagation of koji-kin" Tags="|sake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9230" CreationDate="2013-01-24T13:14:52.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've successfully used coke bottles on a stout. They worked great and it was definitely a surprise to some people when the cracked it open and it wasn't coke that they were drinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd just check to make sure that they aren't cracked or anything, and make sure your caps will fit them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are clear, be sure to store them in a dark place until ready to consume, as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T13:14:52.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9275" CreationDate="2013-01-24T13:16:07.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just educated myself on this, and I found a description of the sake making process ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.taylor-madeak.org/index.php/2008/10/17/growing-koji-for-homebrewing-sake?page=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.taylor-madeak.org/index.php/2008/10/17/growing-koji-for-homebrewing-sake?page=2&lt;/a&gt; ). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They explicitly state that you can store the culture for next use. What they don't say is how fragile this culture is. But it sounds quite stable, so I guess you have to buy it the first time, but then you can reuse until it stops working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T13:16:07.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-24T15:30:11.857" Score="1" ViewCount="2723" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would you know if your brew is or isn't contaminated? I'm the first timer that dealt with the broken spigot &amp;amp; had to transfer at 6 days. Just hearing about contaminated home brew so many times &amp;amp; the fact that I'm looking at my batch right now &amp;amp; it just looks like dark coffee with no movement ..freaks me out a little. ??? Also, if this brew is ok, can I transfer it back in to a bucket from the Carboy for ease of bottling ??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3037" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T15:54:58.250" Title="Possible contamination / small areas of bubble clusters on top of brew" Tags="|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9278" CreationDate="2013-01-24T15:47:28.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything sounds perfectly normal. After a week of fermentation it's normal for the beer to be mostly still with some bubbles or foam on the surface. Leave it for a while and then test the gravity before bottling. The gravity should be at the final gravity specified by the recipe, or close to it, and stable over three days. After drawing a sample for your hydrometer, don't return the sample to the fermenter as this can introduce contaminants. If the beer tastes normal at this point, it's most likely free of contamination?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're ready to bottle, rack the beer from the fermenter to a clean, sanitized bucket and add your priming sugar. Be sure to mix well, but be careful to avoid introducing oxygen. I like to boil the priming sugar in some water and put it in the bucket before the beer. That way the turbulence of the flowing beer distributes the sugar effectively throughout the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T15:47:28.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9278" CreationDate="2013-01-24T15:54:58.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bubble clusters are normal, not to worry :) An infection typically looks like there's big chunks of stuff floating on top. Another thing that tends to worry first-timers but is actually normal is the crown of nasty-looking stuff around the top of the beer, that's just the yeast and sometimes sediment depending on if/how you filtered the beer (hops are a major culprit in making the carboy messy). Also don't be concerned about funky smells if you put your nose near it. If you don't know what to expect, those smells can freak you out but it's normal for the yeast to make it smell a little rotten (it is a fungus after all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the transfer back into the bucket, that's fine as long as you make sure to thoroughly sanitize it/you, and just be gentle with it so you don't dissolve any more oxygen into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want an easier way to bottle, look for a bottling nozzle that you can stick on the end of a siphon. Most homebrew shops carry them, they usually look like a 10-inch long clear plastic straw with a small valve at the end. If you use a rubber tube to siphon you basically jam that straw in the end of it and it will stop fluid from coming out until you press it into the bottom of a bottle, which opens the valve and lets the fluid pass through at a very manageable rate. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.org/Plastic-Bottle-Filler-w-Spring-Tip-38_p_1140.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an example of one. That will probably be a lot easier/safer than using the spigot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T15:54:58.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9245" CreationDate="2013-01-24T16:15:34.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a 1.3 gal pot you probably shouldn't boil more than 2-3 liters because you want to leave some head space to avoid boilovers, which can be a huge mess. With boil-off, you're going to end up with even less beer than 2-3 liters, unless you top off with more water. So it's probably not worth it to brew in less than a 2-3 gallon pot, so you can safely brew 1 gallon batches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing is a hobby that costs money - the ingredients cost money and the equipment costs money. It doesn't need to be expensive - you can buy economy pots - aluminum or thin economy stainless - and brew great beer. Brewing less than 1 gallon at a time (~10 12 oz bottles) probably isn't worth the effort. You can also get yourself an inexpensive 1 gallon glass jug for fermenting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brooklynbrewshop.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brooklyn Brewshop&lt;/a&gt; is a small company that only sells 1 gallon all grain kits. They have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://brooklynbrewshop.com/instructions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;good videos&lt;/a&gt; that shows their basic process, which utilizes a strainer for sparging. You could also do brew-in-a-bag (BIAB) with a small strainer bag, like those used for partial mash brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T16:15:34.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9248" CreationDate="2013-01-25T03:29:40.217" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whatever you decide to do I would suggest handling it on the kettle side of things.  If you strain at the fermenter (mesh bag, SS strainer, etc) you'll probably create a lot of unwanted aeration of the wort as it foams up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3062" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T03:29:40.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9285" CreationDate="2013-01-25T11:20:28.047" Score="2" ViewCount="1347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some mead fermenting. It is the first time doing it and I have no idea how would it be bottled. I have one sweet and one dry version&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I use beer bottles that can resist pressure?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is carbonation using sugar needed/recommended/possible?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T13:42:38.880" Title="How to bottle mead?" Tags="|bottling|mead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9284" CreationDate="2013-01-25T12:47:37.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can carbonate or not, depending on your preference.  You do so by adding priming sugar to the bottling bucket, just like with beer.&#xA;If you choose to carbonate, you will need a bottle that can handle the pressure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Capped Beer bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belgian/Champagne bottles with a cork and a wire cage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flip top bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If bottling still (uncarbonated), you can use any of the above, or ordinary wine bottles with corks.  You will not be able to carbonate if you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exceeded the alcohol tolerance of the yeast (unless you add another yeast with higher tolerance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added stabilizers (potassium sorbate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pasteurized the mead &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&#xA;If you exceeded the alcohol tolerance of the yeast, adding a new yeast may overcarbonate and cause the bottles to explode.  It is possible to refrigerate or pasteurize once the desired level of carbonation is reaches.  Here's some more information: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f32/easy-stove-top-pasteurizing-pics-193295/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f32/easy-stove-top-pasteurizing-pics-193295/&lt;/a&gt; (I've never done this; please be careful)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options for sweet mead are to pasteurize or stabilize first, then add additional sugars, which won't ferment.  It is then no longer possible to prime the bottles, but you could force-carbonate in a keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastEditorUserId="1364" LastEditDate="2013-01-25T13:42:38.880" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T13:42:38.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9296" CreationDate="2013-01-25T13:28:08.783" Score="1" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;My power went out and I guess the house cooled enough during that time to suck about 1/4 gallon of sanitizer from the blowoff into my 1 gallon batch mead. It completely filled the headspace and started to climb up the tubes on my 5 gallon batches of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be no more yeast activity in the batch, so I'm thinking it must have all died off from the sanitizer. The gravity is still high so I want to ferment this further, but is it pointless to repitch some new yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I repitch the yeast and it takes off again, will it be safe to drink? Will it even taste good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sanitizer is Star San.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T14:58:55.980" Title="Lots of sanitizer sucked up into my mead, wondering if it's still safe to consume?" Tags="|mead|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9289" CreationDate="2013-01-25T15:02:00.637" Score="4" ViewCount="2597" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much water for each kg of grains is typically used in mash? (I am referring to mash only, not to sparging). Is that amount the amount of the final wort I will be boiling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-01-31T21:11:00.797" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T21:02:19.940" Title="How much water is used for mashing" Tags="|mashing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9287" CreationDate="2013-01-25T15:43:31.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of factors that affect the amount of water used for mashing: batch size, evaporation rate, equipment loss, grain absorption, etc. You're best to start with the amount of beer you want to make and work backwards from there. There are plenty of online &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;calculators&lt;/a&gt; that will do the math for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't know the values for some of the variables (like &quot;trub loss&quot;, which is wort left behind in the boil kettle to avoid adding the trub to the fermenter), just use the default values in the calculator. On your brew-day measure &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; and enter those values into the calculator next time. You're probably going to miss your target volume the first few brews, but if you'll eventually dial it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For batch size, you might want to enter a larger volume than what you plan to bottle or keg. Most brewers loose close to half a gallon of beer due to yeast and trub sediment in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure from the wording of your question if you're asking about &quot;no sparge&quot; mashing. If you are, you can still use the linked calculator. Just keep increasing the &quot;mash thickness&quot; parameter until the &quot;sparge water&quot; result is very close to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T15:43:31.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9287" CreationDate="2013-01-25T15:44:12.450" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a very good explanation of the whole detailed calculations &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew365.com/technique_calculating_mash_water_volume.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...but the sum of that is basically this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For most purposes, a good ratio is to use 1.25 Qts. per pound of grain (0.3125 gal/lb.)3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that would be about 2.6 L per 1 kg (thanks @Paolo for the correction)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will then sparge with enough water to get it to your desired volume, plus another litre or so to account for evaporation (it's easiest to just know what line on your kettle to fill it to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastEditorUserId="3052" LastEditDate="2013-01-31T18:45:31.980" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T18:45:31.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-25T16:54:56.600" Score="1" ViewCount="4165" Body="&lt;p&gt;My starter brewing kit came with 100g of Sodium Metabisulphite for sanitation. It advises to dissolve 1 tsp per pint of water. However there are no futher instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how long I need to leave it in contact with my equipment and whether I need to rinse everything thoroughly with water after contact with the sodium metabisulphite solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to sanitise a 23 litre fermenting bucket and around 50 glass bottles, so is it best to make up a full 23 litres of sanitising solution and fill the bucket entirely, or can I just sloosh a smaller amount around in my bucket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3022" LastActivityDate="2014-11-09T11:27:13.800" Title="Contact time required for sanitation with sodium metabisulphite?" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9290" CreationDate="2013-01-25T18:24:53.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The references I can find list 5 minutes as the contact time.  I would be remiss if I didn't mention that bisulphite (either sodium or potassium) is a very poor sanitizer for beer.  It can work with wine becasue the pH of wine is lower than beer and the alcohol content is higher than beer.  Those provide additional protection.  But for beer, bisulphite will not as well as it does for wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T18:24:53.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9290" CreationDate="2013-01-25T19:56:00.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be ok sanitizing bottles and other small items with the 100g you have, but you'll need a lot more to sanitize a carboy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would instead look to get hold of some starsan or iodophor from your LHBS, since these simply need swilling around in the vessel to be sanitized and left for a minute. They are also no rinse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T19:56:00.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="445" CreationDate="2013-01-26T01:44:51.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've not adjusted for the temperature of the wort then this might explain a few points difference. Check what temperature you hydrometer is calibrated to (usually 20°C/68°F) and then use this calculator - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&lt;/a&gt; - A 40°C wort would explain a 1.060 gravity being read as 1.055&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is the kit is just overstating the potential OG. My kit suggested 1.042, but I have just put my ingredients list into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/allgrain-ogfg/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/allgrain-ogfg/&lt;/a&gt; and got an OG calculation that was very close to what I measured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3022" LastEditorUserId="3022" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T02:05:57.790" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T02:05:57.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9298" CreationDate="2013-01-26T10:36:48.260" Score="0" ViewCount="2427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a simple IPA recipe that I can use with DME (and any other simple/easy ingredients). I've never done my own recipe and have no idea of the different hop characters, so I don't want something that adds 5 different hops at 5 stages and leaves me with no idea to what contributes what to the beer. The ideal would be something that maybe only has 1 or 2 hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I could brew it in small batches and then tweak and improve the recipe over time. This will let me understand the effects of the changes in the beer with each batch. So any further suggestions for how to develop the recipe wold be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3022" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T12:22:14.147" Title="Need a simple extract IPA recipe" Tags="|recipe|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-01-31T20:21:15.820" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9297" CreationDate="2013-01-26T14:36:22.480" Score="1" ViewCount="566" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's starting to get cold out there but I still want to brew.  I started looking into electric brew kettles (i am still new and only using extracts kits).  Most of the stuff I read online is about adding a heatstick to your brew kettle.  I no nothing about welding, so that intimidates me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BDB4UG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;water bucket heater&lt;/a&gt; on Amazon that people in the comments talk about using it to supplement their stove top for boiling wort.  Some comments, however, talk about how its hard to clean properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone here used this? and what are your thoughts?  It's currently 50% off, so its only $40, which seems like a great deal if it was to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other then using this, do you have suggesting for brewing inside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1401" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-12-17T01:58:40.827" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T13:58:07.470" Title="Electric brewing inside" Tags="|wort|boil|electric|bucket-heater|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9286" CreationDate="2013-01-26T14:38:55.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starsan is safe to consume once diluted to the recommended concentration (1 fl.oz/30ml to 5 gallons/20 liters.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quart of starsan in 5 gallons would not kill the yeast - made up starsan has a pH around 2.6-3.0 depending upon your water hardness. Once diluted in 5 gallons of beer, the starsan is diluted a further 20 times. (1 quart in 5 gallons.) That would raise the pH of the starsan to 3.9-4.3, giving a overall pH around 4.6, assuming a beer pH of 5.0. (These are just back of the envelope calculations and the pH may well be even higher.) While 4.6 is on the low side for a beer, and it may taste a little sour, the yeast will happily continue to function down to pH 2, so they'll continue if they haven't already finished. (Wine and mead regularly have pH in this region.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The title says mead, but the question talks about beer. If it is mead were talking about then this may even help provide a little &quot;bite&quot; to the flavor of the mead, if you've not already added acidifiers to the batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find the batch to be too sour, you can add some glycerine to balance out the tartness with some sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-01-28T14:58:55.980" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T14:58:55.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9295" CreationDate="2013-01-26T14:50:43.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're boiling 5 gallons or less on the stove top, then brewing indoors can be done using your regular kitchen setup, assuming you've got an extractor fan in the kitchen to vent all the water vapor. For partial boils, it worked well, but for full boils, it took a over an hour to bring the mash liquor up to temperature, and even longer to bring the full 5 gallons to boil after sparging. The largest ring on the hob was 2.2kW, so YMMV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did this for a few months before building a rig based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theelectricbrewery.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.theelectricbrewery.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T14:50:43.803" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9294" CreationDate="2013-01-26T15:55:22.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want an American NW style IPA and based upon your hop choices I would say use Citra and Cascade. Made up a recipe for you on hopville. Check it out and let me know if you have any questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopville.com/recipe/1677798&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hopville.com/recipe/1677798&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggested using the American Ale II yeast, but doesn't look like they sell that at your HB store. So substitute for whatever you like British Ale or London Ale Wyeast, or your favorite dry yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should give you a good starting point and you can tweak it from there. Challenger would be another hop you could try putting in as well. Or you could try substituting for one of the British hops. If you could get your hands on some Centennial that is a major player over here in the US in most beers. That and simcoe. Good luck and if you don't have a Hopville account get one it is great place to put your recipes so you don't lose them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T15:55:22.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-26T19:54:00.160" Score="3" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;During today's brew, my wort looked like hot and sour soup, there was an incredible amount of floating proteins, like somebody dropped a small loaf of bread in there and it was breaking apart.  This is a new recipe, but I've brewed close to the same grain bill before, and have never seen so much floating stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did just use my new mill for the first time, and this is the first time I've had flaked corn in a mash (1.3 lbs).  Most curious what variables could affect this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:22:30.260" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:22:30.260" Title="What could cause a significant increase in proteins?" Tags="|wort|proteins|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9311" CreationDate="2013-01-27T14:40:52.233" Score="0" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to use bottled water so I do not have to worry about the tap one beeing not too clear (Here I can find some at 0.20-0.30 $ a liter). Since bottled water has information on minerals in the water I want to take advantage of that. Which mineral should be there and which shouldn't be? What about pH or anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T19:17:12.167" Title="What bottled water?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9299" CreationDate="2013-01-27T15:59:00.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most grains/extract typically contain around 10-12% protein, while flaked wheat and barley have around 14-16%. Maize (corn) has a lower protein content, less than &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maize#Comparison_to_other_staple_foods&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;5%&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though there are different amounts of protein in different grists, there's nearly always enough protein in the wort to make the boiled wort look like egg drop soup if you can get the protein to precipitate during boil. Here are some factors that help get the protein to precipitate out of the wort:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hops: polyphenols from the hops attract the proteins to form a complex with later flocculates out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a vigorous rolling boil. This is necessary to move about the polyphenols and the protein about vigorously so there is more chance of contact. This will produce a good hot break - more coagulated proteins. These proteins that coagulate in the hot break would cause off flavours and instability in the beer if left in there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calcium - at least 50ppm of calcium in the wort is recommended to help proteins precipitate out. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pH - a pH of 5.0-5.5 creates an efficient hot break. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;kettle finings (irish moss/whirfloc etc..) these comprise large particles that attract proteins (and beta glucans), causing them to fall out of solution, clearing the wort further.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all these factors working to precipitate out the protein, much of the unwanted protein is removed from the beer. Additionally, a fast chill after the boil will form a cold break, comprising yet more proteins, which reduces chill haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why you got more protein this time round - it could be any of the factors above. It's probably not the flaked corn that's giving you more protein this batch. Rather, your new mill may have created a finer crush with more flour, bringing more protein into the wort, so there was more protein to precipitate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-01-31T22:07:36.583" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T22:07:36.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-27T21:26:45.420" Score="6" ViewCount="20657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen on recipe sites that it calculates an BU:GU ratio for your recipes. Could someone explain what this is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3022" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T15:39:04.107" Title="What is the BU:GU ratio?" Tags="|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-27T21:30:28.097" Score="1" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;For extract brew with specialty grain steeping, what is the ideal (if such exists) steeping volume of water per weight unit of specialty grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sources (e.g., John Palmer, How To Brew) states &quot;at most one gallon per pound&quot;, while others simply assume the full boil volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intuitively, I would say that the volume must be &lt;i&gt;at least&lt;/i&gt; so and so per weight unit, instead of at most. On the other hand, there might be some osmosis issue or similar to keep in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T22:26:47.980" Title="Steeping volume effect" Tags="|steeping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9302" CreationDate="2013-01-27T22:09:43.117" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a rough guide to how much bitterness vs sweetness is in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BU&lt;/strong&gt; stands for bittering units, most often as IBU - international bittering unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GU&lt;/strong&gt; stands for gravity unit - the number in thousandths after the 1 of the original gravity. A 1.040 beer has 40 GUs, while a 1.105 beer, has 105 GUs. It's a rough guide to how much sugar and thus sweetness is in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BU:GU ratio is the IBUs divided by the gravity units. It represents the amount of  bitterness balanced with the sweetness. Higher values mean more bitterness. The scale is roughly 0.25-0.35 for wheats, 0.4-0.8 for the majority of ales, and 1.0+ for IPAs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you brewed an IPA with an OG 1.060 and hopped with 60 IBUs of hops, then the BU:GU ratio would be 1.0. Whereas a wheat at 1.045 OG with 15 IBUs of hops, would have a BU:GU ratio of 0.33. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The suggested BU:GU figures aren't hard and fast, but serve as a guideline. For example, some of my English bitters have approached 1.0 for BU:GU ratio simply because they are low in gravity. The numbers are just a guideline to get in the ballpark for the style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-01-28T11:04:44.207" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T11:04:44.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9302" CreationDate="2013-01-27T22:11:07.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the ratio of Bittering Units to Gravity Units. Higher numbers indicate more perceived bitterness. The intention is to create a balanced beer. The high finishing gravity of strong beers offsets the perceived bitterness. Hence, strong beers need more hops to achieve the same level of perceived bitterness as weaker beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You calculate the BU:GU by taking the total IBUs for the recipe, and dividing by the gravity points. Gravity points are calculated as: (1 - SG) * 1000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, suppose you're brewing an American Pale Ale with a starting gravity of 1.055 and 40 IBUs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;BU:GU = 40 / ((1 - 1.055) * 1000)&#xA;      = 40 / 55 &#xA;     ~= 0.73&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if there's a definitive guide to BU:GU ratios for various styles, but the Mad Alchemist has a nice &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madalchemist.com/chart_bitterness_ratio.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tool&lt;/a&gt; that provides some guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-01-28T15:39:04.107" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T15:39:04.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9303" CreationDate="2013-01-27T22:26:47.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your ideal is best efficiency, then more water is better, up to a point. In a typical AG brew, the grist to water ratio is typically a touch less than 1 pound grist per gallon of water. (I often use 16 pounds of grain and end up with 16 gallons pre boil or thereabouts.) However, this includes also sparge water. so is definitely the upper limit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use half that quantity and then also rinse the grain with the other half. This would give you a slightly higher extract. Just be sure to keep the water at 160F and no higher, else you can start to extract tannins which make the beer taste like tea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T22:26:47.980" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9294" CreationDate="2013-01-28T12:22:14.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to add that I don't like Hopville because it doesn't take into account the boil size when determining IBU calculations.  It gives the same IBU with a 5 gal boil and a 2 gal boil.  For example, the same recipe using BrewersFriend with a 5gal boil comes to 61.56 IBU instead of 67.6 IBU (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/30855/hopville-conversion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/30855/hopville-conversion&lt;/a&gt;).  If you drop down to a partial boil like 3gal you're only getting 41.6 IBU.  I tend to start my boils with 6-6.5 gallons so I finish right around 5 gallons of wort.  It also allows you to save money on hops since you don't need to use as much for bittering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend using the Safale US-05 yeast for your IPA.  It's a wonderful yeast, easy to use (just rehydrate), ferments wonderfully, and finishes nicely in my IPAs.  I did have to use a blow-off tube on my last West Coast IPA though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3027" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T12:22:14.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-28T18:27:41.023" Score="4" ViewCount="2515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to start purchasing hops in bulk, and there are more options than I thought for getting leaf hops.  I've heard (read in this forum) that leaf hops can be better for dry hopping, and also that they are not as good for dry hopping due to introducing more oxygen and soaking up beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other considerations or factors that are objective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I still very much appreciate the answers given, and any more that may speak to this issue, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4572/when-using-whole-hops-do-you-need-a-larger-amount-than-you-would-hop-pellets-to?rq=1&quot;&gt;This question about utilization&lt;/a&gt; addresses one of the most important concerns I had when asking this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T15:43:51.527" Title="What are the practical differences between leaf hops and hop pellets?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9309" CreationDate="2013-01-28T18:53:30.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I am using whole leaf hops exclusively for brewing, and I have used pellets before. For brewing purposes whole leaf hops are fine for all steps. During dry hopping you do get a fair bit of loss. I haven't noticed any issues with adding oxygen to the carboy. People use either and have great success. If you are worried about do a side by side test before buying. Pretty easy to split a mash in half and test whole leaf versus pellet. Would be a fun experiment too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems the deciding factor would be space if you are buying in bulk. If you have space for the whole leaf then go that route. But if you don't get pellets. Pellets take up much less space in the freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T18:53:30.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9300" CreationDate="2013-01-28T19:17:12.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The target &lt;strong&gt;mash&lt;/strong&gt; PH is between 5.1 and 5.5 (again, not the water PH, the mash).&#xA;From that comes that depending on what you are brewing you &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; need to make different mineral adjustments to reach the target PH. You may also want to try to emulate the water of a region that produces the style of beer you are brewing.&#xA;John Palmer explained it all very nicely on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;his book&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T19:17:12.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9309" CreationDate="2013-01-28T19:28:53.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IME, leaf hops are more of a hassle when racking and do seem to soak up more beer, although not an excessive amount.  I find the pellets easier to handle (store and measure) than leaf.  If you're buying in bulk anyway, why not minimize the storage space you need?  Then you can buy even more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't done any side-by-side comparisons, but I have no reason to suspect that there is any noticeable difference in the finished brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T19:28:53.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9314" CreationDate="2013-01-28T19:39:17.460" Score="8" ViewCount="1605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know all the cliche answers:  &quot;it &lt;em&gt;rounds the beer out&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, &quot;it &lt;em&gt;cleans it up&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, &quot;it &lt;em&gt;takes away some of the harshness&lt;/em&gt;&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a definitive answer of whats actually happening during extended cold storage.  Is it just clarity?  Are you dropping polyphenols/tannins that affect FLAVOR?  Couldn't this be achieved with some finings and a quick crash?  I've had some pretty darned clear beers that I've turned around in less than 2 weeks, grain to glass with some prepared gelatin, big yeast pitch, and careful manipulation of fermentation temp.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only lager to date is Jamil's Oktoberfest that I primary'd @ 50* for 3 weeks, cold-pitched with about a gallon starter.  I have to be honest, I am a provisional BJCP judge, taking my tasting exam @ the end of the month, and consider myself to have a pretty good palette.  I couldn't really tell the difference between the sample of beer pulled @ 3 weeks, and the beer after it sat in a fridge for a month.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Listening to Jamil and John Palmer talking about it, it sounds like the purpose is largely to achieve clarity.  I also seem to remember Jamil saying something to the effect of &quot;if you have a strong, healthy primary fermentation, you don't need to lager as much&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many ways, it seems like decoction to me: an antequated process that is not really necessary anymore given upgrades in technology (in the case of decoction: advanced malting techniques; in the case of lagering: yeast selection/genetic modification, fermentation temp control, and refrigeration).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or alternatively, maybe I just need more experience tasting pre-lagered lagers and brewing lagers! :^D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2013-01-28T22:01:26.867" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T01:08:08.583" Title="What is the purpose of lagering?" Tags="|lager|lagering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9313" CreationDate="2013-01-29T01:08:08.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clarity and poly-phenol/tannins pretty much nails it.  Lager yeast do tend to be weaker flocculators than ale yeasts, so more time at cold temp helps clear things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed up an all Munich malt beer with German Lager yeast.  It tasted so good after a 4 week primary that I kept drinking it during &quot;lagering&quot; and it was gone before the lager period was over.&#xA;In the same vein, I brewed an oktoberfest with the same yeast strain that wasn't great after primary, but most certainly was great after two months stored at 45F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think its style, recipe, water chemistry and palette dependent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T01:08:08.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9319" CreationDate="2013-01-29T01:17:13.680" Score="4" ViewCount="11600" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the ideal boil pH?  You hear a lot about mash pH, but if you've maximized your mash efficiency and conversion what is the best pH for the kettle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pre boil?&#xA;Post boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T14:34:28.633" Title="What is the ideal boil pH?" Tags="|boil|kettle|ph|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4788" CreationDate="2013-01-29T01:28:20.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its been a while but I have to post.  This is the strangest recipe I have ever seen. No offense Scott, but this reads like the author has too much lead in their pipes.  Totally bizzare. A fish pump? Seriously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3070" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T01:28:20.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9318" CreationDate="2013-01-29T11:56:25.073" Score="3" ViewCount="4814" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a 100% wheat beer, left it on primary for 15 days then secondary for 10 days more, all at room temperature (around 22 C here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When sampling it during the process it had a very strong sulfuric smell and sour taste, which led me to believe the beer was contaminated. &#xA;I pushed forward nevertheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottled it, waited 2 weeks and tried one, it was still sour but the smell had diminished a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waited 1,5 month more and the sourness almost disappeared, together with the smell. It still doesn't taste like commercial wheat beers but those usually max at 70% wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, is this normal on full wheat beers or is the sulfur and sourness being caused by something in my process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T13:03:22.237" Title="Is sulfuric smell and sour taste common on wheat beers?" Tags="|wheat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9317" CreationDate="2013-01-29T13:03:22.237" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What yeast did you use?&lt;/strong&gt; Most Hefeweizen yeasts are known for strong sulfur production, and as you noticed, it usually drops out. My rule of thumb is to wait for the sulfur to completely dissipate before I bottle or keg the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get sulfur from WLP 300 &amp;amp; 380, but I had a sulfur BOMB on a batch with 351, I even posted a question here about it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4829/strong-sulfur-from-wlp-351-how-to-clear-it-up-quickly&quot;&gt;Strong Sulfur from WLP 351 - how to clear it up quickly?&lt;/a&gt;. Fortunately, it cleared up with time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the &quot;sour&quot; flavor, that can be yeast-specific too. That batch with 351 was fairly &quot;sharp&quot; tasting, and I guess one could have called it &quot;sour&quot;. I get that flavor from wheat beers sometimes, not 100% sure why. In your case, a 100% wheat malt beer would probably have a bit of a lactic character. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, I don't think you had an infection, especially if the sourness developed fairly quickly, like with your first samples. I suspect it was due to Hefe-style yeast and your 100% wheat grain bill. I am unaware of what process to use to reduce the sulfur to begin with, but it always seems to age out for me, so its not an issue (I get a lot of sulfur from lager yeasts too, and its NEVER in the finished beer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T13:03:22.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9315" CreationDate="2013-01-29T18:15:21.020" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_pH_affects_brewing&quot;&gt;Brewkaiser&lt;/a&gt;, the ideal boil pH (room temp sample pre boil) should be around 5.2-5.4. Much lower than that, and you'll reduce hop utilitilization, but much higher and the hop utiliziation increases, but the bitterness is harsher. (The same process that causes tannin extraction at higher pH in the mash is at play in the boil also.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A higher pH in the boil also increases the rate of Maillard reactions, causing the beer to darken faster. So for light beers you would want to aim for a lower pH. The lower pH also increases protein coagulation so this has a double benefit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the boil, the pH will have dropped by 0.1-0.2. So the fermentor pH will be around 5.0-5.3. The yeast drop the pH of the wort to 4.3-4.6 to maintain an internally higher pH, which assists with nutrient uptake, something that becomes progressively harder as the pH decreases, so avoiding a too low pH assists the yeast for a healthy ferment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the ideal beer pH is 4.25-4.6 which gives the beer a crisper more lively taste. Higher pH results in the beer being perceived as dull. But much lower and the beer will start to taste tart and sour. (Naturally sour beers are much lower than 4.25pH.) A low or high boil pH will affect the final pH of the beer and thus the perceived flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-01-29T18:42:11.143" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T18:42:11.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-30T05:25:20.270" Score="0" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the common phrases, words, abbreviations that are used by home brewers on this site or in conversation?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the interest of keeping content on this site, rather than &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/684/technical-english-terms-used-in-homebrewing&quot;&gt;linking elsewhere&lt;/a&gt;, this is a list of common home brewing terms that may not be English or common usage in English.  Inspired by and largely derived from &lt;a href=&quot;https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/40353/stack-exchange-glossary-dictionary-of-commonly-used-terms&quot;&gt;this SO meta post&lt;/a&gt;, though I've left off most of the &amp;quot;crowd control&amp;quot; stuff - we can add it back if it's necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Please:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Edit the existing answer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert relevant links to more detailed information on the term/phrase/abbreviation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add only factual information&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep it very, very brief, terse, and to the point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delete your own comments once they become irrelevant (integrated into the glossary)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the Edit Summary box to note reasons for your edit, not comments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Please avoid:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opinion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using abbreviations, terms, and phrases inside a description&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unverified information&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommon terms, abbreviations, phrases&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long descriptions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unnecessary detail&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Citations or examples of usage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inside jokes that are not related to home brewing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Common Internet jargon (i.e., IMHO, TL;DR, RTFM, etc.) unless usage here differs significantly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T17:33:40.210" Title="Homebrewing Glossary - Dictionary of Commonly-Used Terms" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-01-30T20:28:30.777" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9320" CreationDate="2013-01-30T05:25:20.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Beer&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finished product of home brewing using primarily malted barley, water, hops and yeast.  The product does not need to be carbonated to be considered beer, in that case it is &amp;quot;flat beer&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;DME&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry Malt Extract&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Fermentation&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of converting sugars (carbohydrates) to alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Gravity&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See: Specific Gravity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Hops&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The female flowers of the plant, Humulus Lupulus.  Used for bittering &amp;amp; aroma in most beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;LDME&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light Dry Malt Extract.  A powdered, dry extract of a lightly malted barley, such as Pilsener Malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;LME&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquid Malt Extract.  A liquid, gooey concentrate of malted barley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;RDWHAHB&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relax; Don't Worry; Have a home brew!  An abbreviation usually used to let a poster know that there is nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Specific Gravity&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ratio of the density of a fluid in relation to another.  In brewing terms it is usually used to refer to the dissolved sugar content before &amp;amp; after fermentation (original/starting gravity and final gravity, respectively).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Wort&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Name given to beer before fermentation has begun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Wyeast&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A commercial supplier of yeast products.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wyeast web site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Yeast&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single-celled fungus that ferments wort into beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T14:15:58.203" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-01-30T05:25:20.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9309" CreationDate="2013-01-30T18:45:17.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another not-paid-attention-to potential issue with leaf hops relates to measuring them out and getting the correct IBUs.  For instance, if you open a bag of leaf hops from your LHBS, pull out a handful and put them on the scale, there is a good chance a lot of the 'dust' that is at the bottom of the bag is actually resin/lupulin glands, where the bittering/flavor/aroma compounds actually are.  The leaves can be separated from the volatile oils as well at packaging.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from some occasional dry-hopping, I am all pellet, all the time.  1 ounce of pellets = 1 ounce of pellets.  1 ounce of hop leaves does not equal 1 ounce of hop resins/oils.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T18:45:17.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="461" CreationDate="2013-01-30T23:24:52.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do relatively small batches of grain on the hob (up to 2.5Kg) using a mashing and sparging bag. I have 2 stockpots, one of which is used for the mash, and the second which I half-fill with water near the end of the mash period, and heat to 80 deg C. When the mash is complete I sparge by lifting the bag from one pot to the other. It then sits in the other pot for 10-20 minutes or so before removing. I sometimes support the mash bag above the pot while the remaining wort runs out, but as often as not the bag gets put in a big mixing bowl while I add the sparge wort to the 1st volume of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started with the full AG kit, I did not realised that all I really needed was a thermometer and a mashing bag, and some kitchen pots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3080" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T23:24:52.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9325" CreationDate="2013-01-31T00:31:14.277" Score="2" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems like an ideal place to ask a question that has been keeping me confused for a little while now. But I apologize if I've posted in the wrong area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is that I don't seem to understand the temperature trend that I am seeing from my temperature sensors. I'll start of with my setup: Essentially, I have a metal box with two temperature sensors.&#xA;1) Is mounted right at the base of the box [Temp Sensor #1]&#xA;2) The second temperature sensor is mounted 2 inches from the top of the box [Temp Sensor #2]. The box is about 6 inches in height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've placed a heating pad at the base of the box (Temp Sensor #1 lies right in the center of this pad. A graphic showing my setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TlIG3.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also implemented a simple on/off temperature controller, that senses when the temperature goes above a certain set-point and turns off (hence you see the highs/lows for Temp Sensor #1). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OdAoO.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the image, the lower sensor (blue) has the peaks/troughs corresponding to when the heater turns on/off. The heater gets triggered every time the sensing temperature goes below the set point. What I don't understand is why the top sensor (red) has a periodically decreasing trend (it doesn't have highs/lows similar to the bottom sensor)? It doesn't seem to be affected by the heater turning on at all? Even though it is merely 4&quot; away from the heater inside the metal enclosure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that Sensor#1 is probably changing immediately due to the heater very quickly affecting the metal base temperature via conduction. Whereas the second sensor is probably measuring the air around the metal enclosure at the top, and since air is an insulator, it takes longer to heat up. But there should be at-least some highs and lows I'd imagine. The continuous decreasing trend doesn't make any sense ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I suspected that perhaps my second temperature sensor was damaged. But that wasn't the case. I've tested both sensors and they work fine. Also here is a graph of the temperature trend, when I place the enclosure (with the sensors) in the freezer with no heater action. Intuitively as you can imagine, there is merely a decreasing trend for both sensors (shown below) due to the effect of the freezer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions please as to why I notice no temperature variation at Sensor #2 location when the heater turns on/off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3081" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-08-28T13:41:50.073" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T13:41:50.073" Title="Measuring temperatures at two points: weird trend?" Tags="|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9324" CreationDate="2013-01-31T01:46:04.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's to do with thermal inertia. If you look closely at the graph you'll see there are highs and lows for sensor #2 also - just much smaller than sensor #1, and they have the same period (time interval) as sensor #1, indicating they stem from the same heating oscillation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're of course right when you say that air is a poor conductor, and so it will essentially dampen the effect of the heater - there are rises and falls, just over a smaller, dampened range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not entirely clear on when the freezer switches on and why it would be on when the heater is also on, but it seems that's the case from the graph. Another reason for the imbalance is that the freezer has a far greater cooling effect than the 25W heater can heat. Most freezers are in the order of 120W or more, and have a Coefficient of Performance (CoP) of 2 or more when chilling to beer temperature, so you're getting about 240W of real cooling power vs 25W of heating power (resistance heating has a CoP &amp;lt;= 1) - so a 10:1 difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine the main reason you're seeing any fluctuation in sensor 2 at all is because of the box, which confines the convection of heated air to within the box. I imagine if you removed the box and did the same thing, you'd see very little change in sensor #2 because of the large volume of cooler air surrounding it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-01-31T03:00:16.187" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T03:00:16.187" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9327" CreationDate="2013-01-31T05:07:50.373" Score="3" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the boil and more pertinently afterwards when I'm cooling the wort I have noticed that when I stir the thermometer around the temperature will rise (sometimes up to double digits) but when I hold it still the reading drops. Naturally when I hold it still long enough the fluctuations level out to give a more consistent reading. However I'm still curious why agitation causes a spike in the reading and if it's related to the thermometer or if it's just due to temperature imbalance within the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference I'm using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00009WE45&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;digital thermometer&lt;/a&gt; which only allows me to read 4 inches into the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1578" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T09:21:36.693" Title="Why does the temperature reading rise when stirring the boil?" Tags="|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9326" CreationDate="2013-01-31T09:21:36.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heat of your wort will not be uniform throughout the kettle, it's going to be at its hottest at the bottom of the kettle - where the heat source is, and its coolest at the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The act of stirring agitates the wort and causes some of that hot wort from below the surface to rise to the top and mix with the cooler wort, hence the rise in temperature you're seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For consistent readings, (like you've noticed), it's best to keep the thermometer stationary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T09:21:36.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-31T15:43:37.167" Score="2" ViewCount="2290" Body="&lt;p&gt;In nearly all the online videos from experienced homebrewers, they use Star San as a non-rinse sanitizer. However in the UK it is not widely available (only one site has it online and it is not available in any of my LHBS).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a quick search for alternatives and found mention of using Videne (an antiseptic solution used in medical surgeries). Has anybody used this in brewing? and is it as effective as Star San (i.e. effective sanisting, non-rinse, short contact time, no undesirable taste)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3022" LastEditorUserId="3022" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T09:55:16.603" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T12:49:50.543" Title="Is Videne effective as a non-rinse santizer?" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|starsan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9328" CreationDate="2013-02-01T18:56:57.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not used it myself, but found that some high ranking members over at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=36&amp;amp;t=313&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk&lt;/a&gt; use it. They say they got it at the Pharmacist at ASDA for about £4.50 for a 500ml bottle. This is then diluted to 2.5ml in 2000ml water, so it's going to last a while!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.25ml/l is the usual concentration. 2.5ml/l is the maximum no-rinse concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/vidine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewuk.co.uk&lt;/a&gt; has this advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I switched to videne many brews ago, using 1.25-1.5ml per litre of&#xA;  water to get a no-rinse solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I use it?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I use 500ml in a spray bottle to brew ( Great for spraying up taps, into tubes and bottles, for other things like FV’s I&#xA;  pour a small amount into it and rotate the FV, then a quick spray and&#xA;  tip out)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;make sure everything is properly cleaned &amp;amp; rinsed with hot water&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;0.75ml per half a litre and also add a 0.5 teaspoon (2.5gms) of citric acid to increases and prolongs its effectiveness. Best use&#xA;  filtered/treated/bottle water as chlorine and water hardness can&#xA;  effect how long the solution lasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can get citric acid from BrewUK, it looks a bit like table sugar,&#xA;  but it tastes foul if used in tea (trust me on that one I’ve made the&#xA;  mistake)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The solution is the colour of cold tea. Over time as it loses its&#xA;  sterilizing potency as it looses its sterilizing effect it loses its&#xA;  colour. Also best stored out of light!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T19:03:12.180" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T19:03:12.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9340" CreationDate="2013-02-02T05:41:00.110" Score="5" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling hops reduces the beta acids that are associated with aroma/flavor. Is there any other advantage to a 30 minute hop addition or could you just increase your 60 minute hop addition to achieve the same IBU, and increase your late hop addition to compensate for flavor/aroma?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me like this would result in the same flavor profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3064" LastEditorUserId="3064" LastEditDate="2013-02-02T23:22:57.877" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T18:34:24.687" Title="Is there a distinction between flavoring (e.g. 30m) and aroma (late) hop additions" Tags="|hops|boil|alpha-acids|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-02T06:48:24.637" Score="0" ViewCount="697" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to put together a session saison &amp;amp; can't find much online to start from.  I've got this so far, but would like some feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Malts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;500g Munich I (steeped)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3kg x-light / pilsner extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hops&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20g Northern Brewer 9.6% (~25IBU) @ 60min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40g Hallertau at flame-out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wyeast 3711 - French Saison (I've already got this so would prefer to keep it in)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stats&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~25-27 IBU&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~1.041-1.043 OG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~1.008 FG, 4.5-4.7% ABV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is for a birthday party, so I'd like to aim for &quot;wide appeal&quot;, while still keeping it interesting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like Dupont's Saison and have read that they use exclusively pilsner malt; is this typical or should I mix it up with some wheat?  In the base malt or steeped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are spices (e.g. peppercorns, bitter orange, coriander) typical and would they still fit the &quot;mass appeal&quot; goal?  Or is it better to keep the recipe simple when using 3711?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T17:49:07.693" Title="Formulating a session saison using extract &amp; grains" Tags="|recipe-formulation|extract-plus-grains|saison|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2013-02-02T11:52:18.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;UK&#xA;belhaven bottles are now clear rather than brown, so I've stopped using them.&#xA;Duchars IPA bottles are good - labels come off easily and capping is also easy.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Breakspear - good bottles labels fairly easy to remove&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Williams Bros bottles - my staple but more because I like the beer! Cap easily, however labels on some of them (Fraoch!) can be impossible to remove (I keep them on - makes life easier)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3080" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T11:52:18.963" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-02-02T11:52:18.963" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9335" CreationDate="2013-02-02T15:11:50.140" Score="3" ViewCount="931" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I learned what happens if there's too much yeast and a container too small (I have a 1 gallon batch). So according to instructions I sanitized a hose and connected the hole in the fermentor and put the other end in the sanitized water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, how long should I keep this setup? A couple of hours until there is no more bubbling? Just long enough to stop the heavy bubbling? Or all the way to the end of the fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2028" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T15:38:43.380" Title="How long to keep in blowoff tube?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|blow-off|blow-off-tube|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9334" CreationDate="2013-02-02T15:38:43.380" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep it in for as long as there's a large krausen (the foam on top of the beer.) You can then choose to remove it and replace with an airlock or you can leave in until the end of fermentation and you're ready to rack.  If you do remove it and replace with an airlock, there is potentially a risk of contamination, but not much if you sanitize all the airlock and spray the opening with sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T15:38:43.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2013-02-02T18:46:48.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote an article on this at my homebrew blog.  You can buy reusable stencils and etching cream to put permanent marks on your carboys.  For more information, check it out here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://vikingales.com/2013/02/marking-carboy-gallon-marks-etching-cream/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to measure and permanently mark the volume mark in a glass carboy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3093" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T18:46:48.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-03T04:29:24.907" Score="1" ViewCount="1883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm really worry, I made a wort some hours ago, and right now I see that my hydrometer is broken in the bottom, the last time I used it was in the hot wort previous to boiling, and it seems like some little green balls are missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until I know, the green balls could be lead or mercury, so if these balls are into my wort this could be really a danger to my health. Should I drop my beer in order to avoid be poisoned by unknown metals? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; I just read that green balls are OK, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/broken-hydrometer-blues-66368/index2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/broken-hydrometer-blues-66368/index2.html&lt;/a&gt; Anyone can confirm this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT2&lt;/strong&gt; Picture&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KsAjm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken Hydrometer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastEditorUserId="2775" LastEditDate="2013-02-04T17:01:25.173" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T22:41:31.923" Title="Hydrometer exploded" Tags="|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9339" CreationDate="2013-02-03T15:47:01.410" Score="4" ViewCount="3313" Body="&lt;p&gt;A question regarding steeping flaked barley in stouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zainasheff &amp;amp; Palmer's &quot;Brewing Classic Styles&quot; lists an extract-based recipe for stout. with flaked barley and roasted unmalted barley for steeping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I thought that flaked barley must be mashed: it is unmalted, and steeping will only release proteins and a lot of starch. Virtually all my google searches end up with the same result: steeping flaked barley without some base malt is a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supporting this view indirectly is Palmer's &quot;How to Brew&quot;, where the given stout recipe has no flaked barley in the extract version -- only in the all-grain version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bought all the ingredients for the Zainasheff-recipe. Is it a bad idea to go ahead, and make an extract beer using only flaked barley and unmalted roast barley for steeping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T16:19:19.880" Title="Steeping flaked barley" Tags="|adjuncts|steeping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9338" CreationDate="2013-02-03T16:19:19.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right that flaked barley normally has to be mashed to extract the potential yield. However, the main contribution of the flaked barley isn't so much the sugar potential, but beta glucans and proteins. The beta glucans contribute to the thicker mouthfeel, and the proteins to the foam (head). While you may get a little starch in the beer from steeping the flaked barley, you're not going to easily see the starch haze in a stout, and I doubt you'd taste it either against the roasted barley. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you prefer not to take the chance with all the starch, here are some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reduce the quantity: The usual ratio for base malt, flaked barley and roasted barley is around 7/2/1 (depending upon the color of the roast barley.) If the amount of flaked barley in the recipe is more than a pound for 5 gallons, you may want to cut back to 12-16oz, since it plays a supplemental role when steeped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative - since you're going to be steeping anyway, you can throw in a half pound of 6-row or a 12oz of 2-row pale malt and turn this into a mini-mash. Steep (actually, mash!) at 154F/68C and leave for 30 mins. The enzymes in the pale malt will break down most of the starch in the flaked barley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T16:19:19.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9331" CreationDate="2013-02-03T18:34:24.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, &quot;yes&quot;. Long answer ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excuse me for getting a little sciency, but ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the simple assumption the &quot;flavor&quot; is a single component with concentration X(t) with a some half-life g, and that the &quot;bitterness&quot; comes from the isomerization of a single kind of alpha acid, with concentration Y(t) and some half-life h, one can write down simple equations that &lt;em&gt;given&lt;/em&gt; the original hopping scheme at t=0 and t=60 min (say), can give you the &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; hopping scheme at t=30 min and t=60 min. (This should of course incorporate some standard model for isomerization factors that depend on, e.g., the gravity, like Rager or Tinseth.) These schemes would yield identical X(60 min) and Y(60 min), and hence the &quot;same&quot; flavor and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this approach will work &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt;. You can get a good approximation to the original scheme by trial and error. But more often than not, I think this model is too simple to account for all the flavor tones and bitterness &quot;hues&quot; you will get from varying the scheme. For example, dry hopping gives flavors very different from that obtained by very late additions to the boiling wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flavor is not determined by a &lt;em&gt;single&lt;/em&gt; chemical compund, but &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt;. Similarly for the bitterness, I believe. Also, the evaporation of the flavor determining chemicals depends on many factors. Moreover, the Tinseth and Rager models are &lt;em&gt;empirical&lt;/em&gt; and by no means exact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T18:34:24.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-04T11:52:26.363" Score="1" ViewCount="1071" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am total novice so please excuse me for possibly stupid question. I bought a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewferm.be/en/pils.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;beer kit&lt;/a&gt;&quot; (malt + hop) that had recipes for 20 and 12 liters. I decided to go for 12 liters, because I don't have a lot of bottles. So it says that I don't need to add priming sugar in case of 12L variant. I am now worried will not beer be flat then? The initial concentration of sugar is higher, but will not it be all processed before bottling? May be it is possible to start bottling before bubbling ends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I am really sorry! I didn't read instruction careful enough and misinterpreted table. Here it is:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wapjo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Priming sugar is marked as Sugar 2 (not Sugar 1 as I thought), so my original question doesn't make any sense anymore. Still thanks to everyone for very useful information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3095" LastEditorUserId="3095" LastEditDate="2013-02-04T19:54:27.303" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T18:38:24.303" Title="Recipe says don't add priming sugar, will it lead to flat beer?" Tags="|carbonation|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9341" CreationDate="2013-02-04T12:47:46.077" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This does sound like dangerous advice, unless they also tell you at which specific gravity to start bottling. If you bottle to early, you could get bottle bombs, and too late you get flat beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bottle at a SG close to the expected final gravity then you can reduce the chances of the above from happening. If you were going to use priming, sugar, for 2.5 volumes in 12 liters, you would use 3.2 * 2.5 * 12 = &lt;strong&gt;96g sugar&lt;/strong&gt;. (3.2 grams of table sugar gives 1 volume in 1 liter.) We can then extrapolate this back to a SG increase - table sugar is 36 gravity points per pound per gallon, or 8.314 * 36 = ca. 283 points per kilogram per liter. So the sugar would increase the gravity by 283*0.096/12 = 2.26 points. Since your extract beer kit is not 100% fermentable (unlike sugar) but probably close to 50-75% max, then you want to &lt;strong&gt;aim to bottle when the SG is at&lt;/strong&gt; 2.26/0.75 = &lt;strong&gt;3 SG&lt;/strong&gt; above your final gravity. It depends upon the beer style - you could safely go up to 4 SG points above FG and end up with a well carbonated beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the instructions don't tell you when to bottle or what the expected FG is, then I would simply let it ferment out and then bottle with priming sugar. It's safer and in many ways simpler than having to deal with all the guesswork about remaining fermentables in primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 12 liters, the beer will be nearly twice as strong as the one at 20l, and possibly more bitter. You may want to simply get hold of some more bottles and brew the full 20 liters. Plastic 1.5 liter soda bottles work fine once cleaned (leave to soak for 24 hours in water then rinse and sanitize as usual.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: In the comments, the OP realizes he's mis-read the instructions. The advice is then to follow the usual full ferment and add priming sugar - 96g in this case - as I recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-02-04T21:51:27.000" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T21:51:27.000" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9337" CreationDate="2013-02-04T15:48:06.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the alternative to lead weights in the bottom of a hydrometer is steel shot. You should be able to check the difference between the two with a magnet. &#xA;Alternatively, if you have a blowtorch, lead has a far lower melting point than steel. Just be very careful of molten metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also suggest in the future taking a sample of wort and cooling it before dropping your hydrometer in. Remember that hydrometers are calibrated around 60 degrees (60 or 68, typically), so you're reading's going to be off from hot wort anyways, in addition to possibly breaking your hydrometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T15:48:06.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9341" CreationDate="2013-02-04T19:06:01.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was me I would let the beer finish out completely. Till the gravity reading stabilizes at what it was specified in the recipe. Then I would use the information from Palmer's book to determine how much priming sugar to add:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-4.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't add priming sugar you most likely will end up with flat or under-carbonated beer.  Use the nomograph to choose the amount for you. Notice it is designed for a 5 gallon batch so you will have to convert the units. This would be the best route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T19:06:01.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9346" CreationDate="2013-02-04T22:31:49.597" Score="3" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to brewing, only done a few all-extract batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my next batch I came across an APA recipe that called for a 2:1 ratio of DME to 2-row malt.  What wasn't clear to me was if I should just plan to steep the 2-row along with the other adjunct grains (60L in this case) or if I should plan a more drawn-out 150 degree steep and 170 degree sparge for the 2-row?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose either will work but the more complex process will get a better flavor, but, any hints or suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3098" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T23:48:04.993" Title="How to steep 2-row in a partial grain recipe" Tags="|steeping|partial-mash|2-row|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9345" CreationDate="2013-02-04T23:48:04.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both will work, in the sense that you will get beer at the end, but they will have different results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 160F steep for a few minutes will not extract much sugars from the base malt, and those that are extracted will be dextrins, non-fermentable sugars that give body, and also starches which will give the beer a haze. Combined with the use of extract which is generally high-ish in dextrins already, the additional dextrins from the steep would make the mouthfeel would be thicker than normal for an APA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 150F 45-min mash followed by a 170F sparge will extract more sugars, in particular, fermentable sugars, and the longer step gives the starches time to break down into simpler sugars, so no starch haze. The low temperature also favors production of simpler sugars rather than dextrins, which are fermentable, leading to a lighter body. The 170F sparge rinses the grains of these sugars, increasing yeild, and stabalizes the enzyme activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 1/3 base malt in the recipe, my money would be on mashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T23:48:04.993" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-06T01:30:37.237" Score="4" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished fermenting a brew and I forgot to remove the blow off tube which is a tube sitting in a 500 ml bottle of water. So when I started sucking beer out of my fermenter, I sucked all the water from the bottle.&#xA;I decided to carbonate one of the 2 kegs at 2'C and store the other keg at 16'C.&#xA;My question is: will these beers be contaminated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3103" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-02-06T03:24:05.623" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T14:46:26.650" Title="Is my beer contaminated?" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9347" CreationDate="2013-02-06T03:21:54.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on what bugs were in the water and whether they can reproduce fast enough to flavour the beer before your drink it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is to keep the beer as cold as you can to limit microbe growth, and drink it quickly. The beer stored at 16 C is much more at risk because the elevated temperature will accelerate microbe growth. If you can keep both kegs close to freezing, that's optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T03:21:54.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-06T04:04:56.833" Score="4" ViewCount="8304" Body="&lt;p&gt;The article &lt;a href=&quot;http://thehowzone.com/how/making_ginger_beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;making_ginger_beer&lt;/a&gt; mentions using bread yeast so you get more carbonation and less alcohol. Isn't carbonation a by-product of the process that makes alcohol? Wouldn't that mean more carbonation means more alcohol? What is the relation between type of yeast, carbonation, and alcohol content?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3085" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T04:49:01.050" Title="Relation of CO2/alcohol/yeasts in Ginger Beer" Tags="|fermentation|carbonation|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9349" CreationDate="2013-02-06T08:03:49.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbonation is indeed a by-product of fermentation, the yeast will consume sugar and produce alcohol and co2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some yeast strains will consume more sugar before the alcohol concentration gets too high and they go into 'hibernation' (floculate and settle to the botton).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lower temperatures will also cause some strains of yeast to floculate and stop fermenting, which is the key to your recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to it, you let the yeast do its magic for a few hours, then put it on the fridge to stop fermentation. All you want is enough co2 to produce bubbles so if you follow the recipe and put the bottles in the fridge once they feel 'hard' you shouldn't get too much alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T08:03:49.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9347" CreationDate="2013-02-06T14:51:06.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe, but probably not.  Several things are working against contamination post-fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Post-fermentation your beer is attenuated and has alcohol in it, a natural anti-microbial. This higher the ABV, the less likely something bad can grow in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beer also contains hops, which is another natural anti-microbial.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are immediately cooling the beer down to carbonating/serving temp.  Low temperature also inhibits growth of microbials.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was your blowoff tube pumping krausen into the water or just basically operating as an extended airlock? If it was pumping krausen that increases the chances of something growing in the water, but does not necessarily mean it will continue to grow in the keg.  If it was just an extended airlock, then the only thing that went into the water was CO2.  Even IF something was growing in the water, it would have had to produce off-flavors BEFORE going into your beer since due to the reasons above, it shouldn't continue growing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comment response:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure water sitting at room temp for 10 days &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; grow something, but generally sugar or something else is required for bad stuff to grow since they need something to eat. Bacteria can't just eat water. Given that this was also in a fermentation fridge (enclosed space) for the 10 days, it is even less likely that something landed in there and started to grow so I'd bet that you are perfectly fine with just very slightly diluted beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, the fact that your beer had alcohol and hops in it at the time the water was added will prevent almost anything else from growing in it.  The biggest risk for contamination is pre-fermentation, not post. Like another comment said, yeast doesn't eat bacteria.  Yeast only eats sugar.  Chilling the beer causes the yeast to go dormant and settle out of the beer at the bottom so yes it stops working, but it wasn't &quot;eating&quot; the bacteria in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast &lt;em&gt;outcompetes&lt;/em&gt; other bad stuff in your beer simply because it reproduces so fast in wort. When you start fermentation, I guarantee there is contaminating bacteria in there no matter how good your sanitization practices are. The yeast just goes to work immediately and outcompetes the bad stuff, producing alcohol as a byproduct which in turn kills the bad stuff.  Hopefully this clarifies things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="802" LastEditorUserId="802" LastEditDate="2013-02-07T14:46:26.650" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T14:46:26.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9354" CreationDate="2013-02-06T17:26:03.757" Score="6" ViewCount="3183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about switching from fermenting (primary and secondary) in glass carboys to using Cornelius kegs. Specifically, I'd ferment a 5.5 gallon batch in a 10 gallon keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to ferment under pressure -- around 10 or 15 psi. Why? There's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.professorbeer.com/articles/esters.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some&lt;/a&gt; anecdotal &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewery.org/brewery/library/EstFormAW0696.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;evidence&lt;/a&gt; that fermenting under pressure reduces ester production which could help with lager fermentation. But mostly, the pressure would a) let me remove yeast and trub after a few days of fermentation, and b) let me transfer the finished, carbonated beer to a serving keg under pressure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I regulate the pressure of fermenting beer in a Cornelius keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can image a setup where the gas in line (with the tube removed, perhaps) is connected to a blow-off tube with an in-line pressure regulator. The regulator would need to be adjustable, so I could dial in different pressures for different beers, and at different stages in the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if such an in-line regulator exists. I also expect it would need to be resilient to moisture. Fermenting 5.5 gallons in a 10 gallon vessel, there's not much chance that liquid will end up in the blow-off tube, but I want to be prepared for it if it does happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever put together a setup like this? Can anyone foresee technical difficulties I haven't thought of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="2295" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T14:57:59.543" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T14:57:59.543" Title="How can I ferment in a corny keg under constant pressure?" Tags="|fermentation|keg|corny-keg|pressure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6665" CreationDate="2013-02-06T17:43:19.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this comes a bit too late, however, about halfway down in the comments section on the guide/blog which you reference (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.taylor-madeak.org/index.php/2008/10/17/growing-koji-for-homebrewing-sake?page=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.taylor-madeak.org/index.php/2008/10/17/growing-koji-for-homebrewing-sake?page=3&lt;/a&gt;), there is a comment by the blog author stating: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You're right in koji that has gone to spore not being suitable for adding to sake - at that stage of its growth cycle, the fungus has started to produce kojic acid and other toxins that you wouldn't want present in something you intend to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T17:43:19.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9352" CreationDate="2013-02-06T17:50:10.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look into &quot;spunding valves&quot;, either to buy or DIY.  Often used for natural carbonation, but it could be used to control primary fermentation pressure, as you suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T17:50:10.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2013-02-06T20:54:50.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with using anything that etches is that you're removing material from the unit.  This can in turn affect the structural integrity in the long run.  This is somewhat counter to why people prefer glass fermenters; they will resist scratching better than plastic.  Etching is essentially controlled scratching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few years ago I took a bumper sticker and cut small strips and used them as gallon markers.  I took my time and made sure there were no bubbles and got the corners flat.  Its been like that for a few years without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3108" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T20:54:50.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2013-02-06T20:59:49.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to the local Dollar Store and pick up some of the Oxy-Clean knock-off which I believe is called L.A.'s Awesome Oxygen Cleanser or something.  It's cheap enough....grab a few.  And while you're there go to the house cleaning section and get a stiff handbrush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soak the bottles in hot water with the fake Oxy-Clean.  Most of the labels will peel off after thirty minutes.  After that grab the handbrush and use some water and scrubbing to get the remaining glue off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3108" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T20:59:49.660" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-02-06T20:59:49.660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9287" CreationDate="2013-02-06T21:02:19.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three factors to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A -amount remaining in kettle after boil&#xA;B -amount lost to boil&#xA;C -amount absorbed by grains&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 90 minute boil &quot;B&quot; will generally be 1.5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &quot;C&quot; I calculate .06 gallons per pound of grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;A&quot; is dependent on your batch size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3108" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T21:02:19.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-07T00:20:06.453" Score="1" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think your beer is contaminated after putting it into your kegs, should you chill it to stop bacteria from growing or leave it in the fermenting fridge at the same temp as before 18'C to allow any left over yeast to kill any remaining bacteria?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3103" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T00:57:43.290" Title="Contaminated beer" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9358" CreationDate="2013-02-07T00:52:30.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As was stated previously, yeast don't kill bacteria directly. They make the environment unfavorable for bacterial growth, primarily by acidifying the wort, removing oxygen and increasing the alcohol content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once ferementation is over, the yeast have done all they can to thwart bacterial growth. In fact, as fermentation comes to an end, the pH will rise, making life a little easier for any contaminants. Further more, racking will introduce some oxygen into the beer (unless you do it as a closed CO2 transfer.) and most common contaminanting microbes are aerobic, and will get a &quot;shot in the arm&quot; from the newly introduced oxygen. Finally, raising or keeping the temperature at 18C increases the growth rate of the bacteria. As the yeast have probably consumed all the nutrients and gone dormant, the most they may do is scavenge the oxygen introduced, but there is no certainty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all these reasons, if you suspect the beer is contaminated, then chill after kegging and drink within a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-02-07T00:57:43.290" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T00:57:43.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2013-02-07T03:02:49.027" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For something north of electrical tape and south of glass-etching, I've used nail polish. Cheap and easy; even comes with it's own little brush. It won't come off in most circumstances, but it will if you take some acetone to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T03:02:49.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9352" CreationDate="2013-02-07T03:13:58.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done just this for my last 30 batches or so. It's lovely, and I see no reason to go back. I fill the corny to the weld line, bubble some oxygen up through the liquid diptube, and then connect my spunding valve to the gas connect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spunding valve is just a pressure gauge and an adjustable pressure relief valve attached to a 1/4&quot; stainless tee. To prevent its getting clogged with blowoff, I use an empty water-filter housing as a water trap. It sits between the corny and the release valve to catch any liquid that comes out the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! It's a great way to ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T03:13:58.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-08T23:25:08.863" Score="6" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I've become comfortable brewing all grains but I want to start experimenting.  Where do I start?  Should I start experimenting at the primary fermentation stage and brew a bunch of small different batches? Or should is it better to start when transferring to the secondary?  If you'd recommend this approach what do you use for fermenters?  Do they make small 1 gallon fermenters? I'd like to have my experiments beside each other for testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T08:26:54.727" Title="How do I start experimenting?" Tags="|experiments|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2013-02-10T05:52:42.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to provide a great blog for homebrewers over at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.orionhomebrewing.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.orionhomebrewing.com&lt;/a&gt; Nearly every batch I brew is also a homebrewing experiment. Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3118" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T05:52:42.060" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-02-10T05:52:42.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="180" CreationDate="2013-02-10T08:14:12.893" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sanitizing is the removal of contaminants that could grow bacteria, while sterilizing is the complete destruction of bacteria. Cleaning is the removal of foreign matter. Technically speaking, you can clean something &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; it being sanitized, but not the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3119" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T08:14:12.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2013-02-10T15:11:47.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I don't do all grain yet, as you do, I have taken quite a bit of time to start creating my own recipes. The best thing That I can recommend is this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, create rough draft recipes using any homebrew calculator program to ensure your numbers work. Then, create a regular 5 or 10 gallon batch and separate it out into 1 gallon fermenters. You want something like this &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/1-gallon-jug.html&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/1-gallon-jug.html&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;A word of caution. If you are brewing high gravity beers, make sure to set these up with blow off tubes large enough to fit the bottleneck.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Choose one thing that you want to change, and start there. Try a different yeast for each gallon and find one that works best for you (attenuation, flavor profile, etc). Or add spices, dry hop, whatever you want. Just change one thing per batch. This will help you figure out what you want, and simple is always easier.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print out some official BJCP sheets and invite some friends over for a tasting. Hand the sheets out and educate. Not only can you hit a broad range of palates, but the score sheets will direct people to be very descriptive and help you tweak things. The score sheet can be found here:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PoC1wwdRAdM/TYNV2ZlOewI/AAAAAAAAAKk/s4YKd8btg4g/s1600/SCP_BeerScoreSheet-1.jpg&quot;&gt;https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PoC1wwdRAdM/TYNV2ZlOewI/AAAAAAAAAKk/s4YKd8btg4g/s1600/SCP_BeerScoreSheet-1.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've nailed down what works, make that your de facto recipe and rinse/repeat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3120" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T15:11:47.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2013-02-11T14:46:44.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your knowledge of the different tastes and qualities imparted by the various components of the brew and how scientific/casual you want to be about it, I would recommend starting with different types of yeast. They can produce vastly different flavors in the same brew, and it's one of the &lt;em&gt;easiest&lt;/em&gt; things to tweak in a recipe. Try making a solid base recipe like a pale ale, split it in half, then pitch one half with something standard like California Ale Yeast and the other half with a Belgian or German Lager Yeast. Adjust your fermentation temp appropriately for the strains for best results. You'll be surprised by how different the end results will be :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same method can apply to many post-boil additives, too. You can try things like taking the whole batch through primary, then bottling half and racking the other half onto some dark Candi sugar and letting it go through secondary. Just make sure to boil the additives to sterilize them (best method is to draw some of the beer into a pot and use that to boil, so you don't dilute it with more water) and make sure to chill it so it doesn't shock the yeast when you put it in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to grains, you can't go &quot;wrong&quot; very easily. Chances are you will always come out with a good tasty brew, it just won't necessarily fit a particular style guideline. It's like a domestic dog, just because it's not pure-bred doesn't mean it can't be a great pet if you take care of it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; From the advice of Tobias Patton - There are some general grain guidelines (for the most part there are just some you shouldn't use too much of, IE: Black Patent), you can find many resources for that at sites like &lt;a href=&quot;http://oldrepublicbrewing.wordpress.com/malt-and-grain-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastEditorUserId="3052" LastEditDate="2013-02-11T17:52:09.140" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T17:52:09.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7592" CreationDate="2013-02-11T17:39:30.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could the flavor be described as a burned flavor? Are you applying direct heat to the mash tun? Do you have a heating element in direct contact with the wort, like in a RIMS system? It sounds to me like you may have burned or scorched your mash or wort. Direct heat to the mash tun is fine if you have a false bottom, but be careful if the malt is at the floor of the tun. Scorching from RIMS can happen if the flow rate is too slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe someone played a trick and substituted some peated malt for Maris Otter? ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T17:39:30.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9371" CreationDate="2013-02-12T04:05:32.597" Score="5" ViewCount="1411" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a recipe in front of me that calls for 1 pound, 2.5 ounces crushed 75L crystal malt.  My store only sells in increments of 20L (so in this case, I have 60L and 80L).  How would I calculate how much 60L and 80L crystal malt I would need to make 1 pound, 2.5 ounces of 75L?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T22:19:55.907" Title="How to calculate ratio of crystal malts to get 75L" Tags="|grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9370" CreationDate="2013-02-12T04:24:22.723" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, there's often more than 5ºL variation between batches of crystal by the same maltster, so I'd probably just buy the 80L and be done with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you want to try to be more precise, the Morey equation for SRM (which is what most software uses) just assumes a linear proportional effect. So, you'd want 3 parts 80ºL to 1 part 60ºL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words:&#xA;4.625oz 60ºL and 13.875oz 80ºL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T04:24:22.723" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2013-02-12T08:26:54.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read over the other responses very briefly so sorry if I repeat a few things. I am really excited because I am doing almost the same thing right now! I started by deciding what I wanted to discover; hops, grains, yeast, and so on (I started with hops). One thing I think is difficult but really important is to have a &quot;control&quot; type of recipe, for example (I'm all grain) my first batch was just two row base malt (calculated to a medium to low ABV) and CTZ hops. All the future batches in this experiment will have the same grain bill, same hop addition times, yeast, and fermentation temps... but different hops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't know what you are looking to experiment with, but if it is secondary stuff (dry hop, fruit, wood/oak...) then ya brew a batch and split it up but keep things as &quot;common&quot; as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In doing this experiment I have really understood beer in a new light, the first beer was surprisingly good without a thousand grains and a mash of hops, maybe one of the most simple and fastest poured out of all the beers I have brewed. It is so much easier to pin point each flavor when there are only two ingredients, so I guess my advice is to keep it simple, clean, and as similar as possible. Good luck! Keep us posted (REALLY! REALLY!) and if you have more questions throw them out! CHEERS! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T08:26:54.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4436" CreationDate="2013-02-12T15:34:33.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed about 10-15 batches now, all more or less unsuccessful because of varying temps resulting in infected/not completely fermented beer. Naturally bottling this mess resulted in bottle bombs nearly every time and after disposing of a couple of 24s a few weeks ago I decided to forsake glass altogether. I'm using plastic pet bottles which will allow me to easily gauge the amount of carbonation and are also much safer. I also switched from using the 1 gallon glass growlers to 1 gallon plastic jugs just in case the airlock ever got stuck and the whole thing decided to blow up in my face. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T15:34:33.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4436" CreationDate="2013-02-12T17:39:10.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was bottling I always let the beer sit in the fermenter an extra week just to make sure all the activity was done.  When bottling I was using a bottling wand and found that if I filled the bottle almost to the top the displacement caused by the wand in the bottle was just enough to leave the proper space between the cap and the beer when removed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I had bottles explode was when our AC went out for a day and the house got to around 90 degrees.  My EZ-Cap bottles were popping all over the kitchen floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3062" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T17:39:10.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9370" CreationDate="2013-02-12T22:19:55.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't really work that way.  You can't proportion out a crystal malt and hope to get a different one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can play with math all you want with this.  But if you put half a pound of C120 in a quart of water, you won't have the same color as one pound of C60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the flavor differences in the malts is pretty significant in that example too.  Diluting down the raisin/dried fruit flavors of C80 or C120, don't get you to the light caramel flavors of C40 of C20.  It just gives you diluted raisin/dried fruit flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C75 is so close to C80, your best just doing a straight up sub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and before anyone asks, I've done these experiments before too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T22:19:55.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9380" CreationDate="2013-02-13T10:16:32.557" Score="3" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to kees things simple, and I do not like to clean stuff, so adding secondary fermentation is something that bores me... Should I do it instead? What are the advantages and resons of doing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T16:41:37.677" Title="Why (if) should I do secondary fermentation?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-02-22T18:25:44.990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9349" CreationDate="2013-02-13T10:40:04.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It says it in the article&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wine yeasts are engineered to generate less CO2,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, according to it, for the same amount of alcohol produced (and fermented sugar), bread yest will generate more CO2 than wine yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert, so I do not know if the statement is correct or not. Fermentation chemical reaction is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C6H12O6 → 2 C2H5OH + 2 CO2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for the statement to be true, alongside &quot;main&quot; fermentation reaction there should be some other reaction with effect on alchool or CO2, for example generating different ratio of CO2 and alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T10:40:04.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9378" CreationDate="2013-02-13T17:32:53.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A secondary fermentation can have benefits depending on what you want to do: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to reuse or re-pitch the yeast in the primary, racking the beer to a secondary fermentor is a better way to go because you will get a cleaner pitch for the next batch if you do not want to wash the yeast. Washing is not hard just a little time consuming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider, if you have a beer that will have additions of fruit, wood, flavorings, etc.. a secondary would be a better route again, if you plan to reuse the yeast flavor of the next beer will be minimally affected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are argument that putting a beer in a secondary will help with clarity. In my experiments I have not seen much difference. I have fermentation temp control and drop the beer to 33 degrees when I get to terminal gravity and have been happy with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if you are going to age a beer for an extended period it would be good practice to move the beer off the yeast. At some point the yeast will start to break down and have flavor impact on the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of factors that would go into how long this would be, as a rule of thumb I take a beer off the yeast if I am going to age 6 months or over. To go opposite of this I just took a Bretted wit beer that was in the basement for 1yr and 2 months, left on primary, the final product was outstanding. The beer was 4% ABV, the alcohol level in the final product was so low that the degradation of the yeast took place at a slower pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps. &#xA;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2230" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T17:32:53.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9332" CreationDate="2013-02-13T17:49:07.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your first question: &quot;In the base malt or steeped&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saison Dupont uses a mashing method, they do not used steeped grains because all the specialty grains can be added to the mash to achieve the desired flavor as well as fermentable sugars. I will go out on a limb and say that 99.9% of commercial beers do not use the steeping grain method used in extract brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe suggestions:&#xA;Ditch the munich, unless you want to do a mini mash. You will get minimal flavor from steeping munich. Steeping darker malts where the flavors are bold and assertive, sweet, etc... come through as where lighter malts have a minimal effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let the yeast make the flavor for you. Ramp up the temp to the 80's and let it run. Making the saison yeast get outside its temp range really makes the peppery, earthy character come through, as well as help with the attenuation that saisons are known for. If you do this, do not add pepper in the spices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding spices will add to mass appeal in my opinion. I have made saisons that everyone loved and had the above spices mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add the spices after fermentation, make a tea and add at kegging or bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&#xA;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2230" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T17:49:07.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9384" CreationDate="2013-02-13T23:08:11.093" Score="2" ViewCount="1811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm only reading from other brewers who are brewing with the Speidel Braumeisterthat they it is very difficult, maybe even impossible, to brew beers with high alcohol levels. Is that true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3127" LastEditorUserId="1163" LastEditDate="2017-12-08T20:12:17.820" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T20:12:17.820" Title="Is it easy to brew a high gravity beer with the braumeister?" Tags="|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9382" CreationDate="2013-02-14T00:43:05.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some friends that have the 50 liter version (about 15 gallons) and I know they've brewed a couple of RIS and other strong beers, so it's definitely not impossible, however I don't think it's as easy as some other setups. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They had to perform two separate mashes due to the large amount of grain. Each mash had 10.5 kg (about 23lb) of grain in order to hit 1.094 OG. Efficiency was around 70%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T00:43:05.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9382" CreationDate="2013-02-14T02:46:11.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you're looking to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen the 20L system handle ~1.070-ish beers without trouble. That's a reasonably big beer, though many people ignore the included instructions and start doing things like sparging to get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go much above that, however, I get the impression that you'll need to shrink your batch size or use an extract of some sort to supplement after the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastEditorUserId="3109" LastEditDate="2013-02-14T13:16:20.833" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T13:16:20.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9385" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-15T15:43:31.850" Score="1" ViewCount="2893" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time brewer,I brewed a ipa extract kit.There is no airlock activity after 3 days.I had an og reading of 1.060, I took another reading today of 1.020.I want to ravk into a secondary should i do it now or how long should i wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T19:48:07.320" Title="no air lock activity after 3 days" Tags="|secondary|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9385" CreationDate="2013-02-15T16:00:28.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an IPA you typically want to finish in the 1.010 to 1.018 range, so let it go for at least a couple more days and take another gravity. If you want to rack it into secondary at that point go for it, but most of the time an average IPA (especially a beginner's kit) is good to bottle/keg straight from primary. Depending on the type of airlock you are using it may just be difficult to see movement, and the beer is likely fermenting away happily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are a first-timer there's another question that comes to mind: Did you account for temperature when you took the OG? For example, was the wort still warm when you took the sample? If so, it can affect your gravity reading, in which case there's less of a guarantee that things are fermenting properly. Furthermore, if the wort was too hot (over ~100 degrees F depending on the yeast) when you pitched, it could have shocked the yeast, in which case it could take much longer than normal to start fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer those questions as best you can, but don't get nervous about it because if your gravity really has changed that much, your yeast is probably quite healthy and happy :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, here's a decent style guide for IPAs that will give you some insights on how to handle it: &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2009/09/13/brewing-india-pale-ale-recipes-ipa-beer-styles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewing India Pale Ales&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck to you, let us know how it goes! First brews are always exciting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I just remembered an old rule of thumb that when the airlock (if you have a 3-piece or an S-style) bubbles less than once every 5 seconds you are probably safe to rack or bottle (depending on the recipe and what you want to do with it) because the primary fermentation is basically done. This of course is a very general &lt;em&gt;estimation&lt;/em&gt; and varies per style and per yeast strain, but it's accurate enough for most basic ale extract kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastEditorUserId="3052" LastEditDate="2013-02-15T19:48:07.320" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T19:48:07.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9391" CreationDate="2013-02-15T17:00:50.173" Score="2" ViewCount="429" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a visitor of the US, I have learned to appreciate Yuengling beer. Did someone try to brew a clone of this beer and can publish a recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3127" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T14:31:16.750" Title="Has anyone a recipe of Yuengling beer?" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2013-02-15T17:12:19.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My learning path&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a homebrew kit (Muntons Irish Stout). Very delicious after 3 months.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;German lager with all grains, infusion method.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ordinary English bitter with dry-hop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;......&#xA;In my head:&#xA;German bock, decoction method&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3127" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T17:12:19.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9385" CreationDate="2013-02-15T17:58:19.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going against the recent dogma. I always rack to secondary for the very useful clarifying effect which is caused by a second round of yeast sedimentation. In primary you are usually good to rack to secondary after the krausen, the yeasty bubbly head, subsides which usually happens simultaneously with reduced activity of bubbling in the airlock. After that I wait till I see a nice layer of yeast cake on the bottom of the carboy (I always use glass caroys, which I cover with a towel or blanket). Then after seeing the yeast cake and lack of activity I transfer to secondary making very careful to sanitize everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then after you see a second solid yeast cake in the bottom of the carboy (3 to 7 days later usually) take a hydrometer reading and if the beer is at the FG you want then bottle. Otherwise let it sit and wait. I still get bubbles although very infrequent in the secondary. But I always get much clearer beer if I transfer to secondary, which I think is a really good reason to do a secondary. I submit this photo from Basic Brewings experiment as proof:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ec.libsyn.com/p/8/2/8/8286c7ec50f42984/BelgianProgress.pdf?d13a76d516d9dec20c3d276ce028ed5089ab1ce3dae902ea1d01ce873ed4cb546311&amp;amp;c_id=4557525&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ec.libsyn.com/p/8/2/8/8286c7ec50f42984/BelgianProgress.pdf?d13a76d516d9dec20c3d276ce028ed5089ab1ce3dae902ea1d01ce873ed4cb546311&amp;amp;c_id=4557525&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T17:58:19.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9341" CreationDate="2013-02-15T18:38:24.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed the Christmas beer and it was lovely, definitely not flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do have to watch the gravity and bottle it when it says to though or you will get flat beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T18:38:24.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9387" CreationDate="2013-02-16T14:31:16.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you talking about their &quot;Traditional Lager&quot;? They have several different beers, though this one is the most popular I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the request of some Pennsylvanians, I made a clone once, cobbled together from a few different recipes on the web. It was well received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60% - Pale 2-row&lt;br&gt;&#xA;17% - C60&lt;br&gt;&#xA;23% - corn grits,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Target 1.045 OG  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably want to do a cereal mash first, and then a saccharification rest at 151ºF (66ºC) for a full 90 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want about 20IBUs of bittering from a traditional neutral hop, perhaps cluster, and then I understand there's a small 15 minute addition of Cascade. I used 0.5oz (15g) for 5 gallons (19L).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ferment with a clean lager yeast and then give it a nice long cold storage before serving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! Let us know how it turns out if you make it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T14:31:16.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9394" CreationDate="2013-02-17T20:10:00.407" Score="5" ViewCount="3301" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some good options for primary and secondary fermentation vessels for half batch (2.5 gallons) recipes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment half batches seem to be the best compromise between ease of brewing, expense, splitting LME, and having enough brew to share and sample. Looking around I've found the following options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.5 gallon food grade buckets&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pros: cheap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cons: To much head space(?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 gallon pet Better Bottles&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pros: correct size size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cons: expensive, non-opaque material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Gallon Glass Bottles&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pros: cheap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cons: non-opaque material, need to further split batches, more to clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other practical options that I might be missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at some &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/5486/2861&quot;&gt;other&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9362/how-do-i-start-experimenting&quot;&gt;questions&lt;/a&gt; on the site but they don't cover the batch size I'm looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2861" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T00:29:28.443" Title="Fermentation vessels options for 1/2 batch experiments (~2.5 gallons)?" Tags="|experiments|small-batch|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9392" CreationDate="2013-02-17T23:27:00.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With any size fermentation, your fermentor is just something that keeps your beer off the floor. Likewise, there are countless practical options beyond what you've listed here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're just trying to balance convenience, ease of cleaning, and availability. Any of those things will work fine, and there's nothing to really worry about as far as a reasonable amount of excess headspace goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T23:27:00.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9392" CreationDate="2013-02-17T23:31:30.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with the 3.5 gallon buckets, and I don't think it's too much headspace, at least not for primary. I've been happily using 8 gallon buckets for years - so that's 4 gallons space for a half batch, so 3.5 gallons is not too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use the 3.5 gallon buckets for secondary (if you really need a secondary). Here, the headspace might be on the large side, but not excessively. Personally, I'd just go with that, but if you want to be extra careful you could purge the air with CO2 if you have a CO2 tank, but it's not really necessary since racking will cause some CO2 to come out of solution anyway, which will blanket the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T23:31:30.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-18T14:53:46.813" Score="4" ViewCount="2585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 10 gallon mash tun (chest cooler) and I've been brewing with pre-made kits. I want to start making my own recipes but I want to do half-batches (2.5 gallons) until I get the hang of things so I don't waste a bunch of grain and bottling time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my current mash tun too big for the 2.5 gallon batches? Should I just suck it up and do full 5 gallon batches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my process: I do a single step mash, heating the water on a propane burner and adding it to the cooler then waiting the appropriate amount of time. I then do a two step batch sparge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2616" LastEditorUserId="2482" LastEditDate="2013-02-20T11:40:40.873" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T11:40:40.873" Title="What size mash tun for a half batch (2-3 gallon) brew?" Tags="|all-grain|mash-tun|small-batch|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9397" CreationDate="2013-02-18T15:23:26.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently been asking much the same question and the consensus seems to be that for smaller batches, its better to just do Brew In A Bag rather than use a larger mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T15:23:26.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9397" CreationDate="2013-02-18T15:39:17.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That size will be fine, especially if you batch sparge.  If you fly sparge, you may find the grain bed depth a bit shallow, which could negatively impact your efficiency. If you batch sparge, you don't have that problem.  Holding temp shouldn't be too big a problem and if it is you can wrap your cooler in a blanket or sleeping bag to help hold the temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T15:39:17.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9397" CreationDate="2013-02-18T15:39:27.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I do a single step mash, heating the water on a propane burner and adding it to the cooler then waiting the appropriate amount of time. I then do a two step batch sparge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case the size of the mash tun will simply make it more difficult to maintain the mash temperature, but it's still do-able. Coolers tend to hold their temp very well, but the increased air volume from the decreased mash volume means the air will leach off more of the temperature from the mash. You can adjust for this by simply heating the water a bit more before dough-in. Exactly how much depends on the cooler itself and how efficient it is, so you'll just have to experiment with a good thermometer. I'm guessing it won't need much more than an extra 5 degrees F though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T15:39:27.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9392" CreationDate="2013-02-18T16:34:36.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed a lot of half batches lately. Great for testing out recipes and perfecting them. What I do is brew a 2.5 gallon batch of wort. Put that into a 5 gallon carboy pitch my yeast and wait till the krausen subsides. Then rack that for secondary fermentation into a 3 gallon carboy. That way you will not have to worry about an overflow because the 5 gallon gives plenty of headspace. This setup has worked great for a wide variety of beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T16:34:36.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9378" CreationDate="2013-02-18T16:41:37.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only practical reason I know of for racking to secondary is the improved clarity of beer. By racking off the yeast cake in primary gives the yeast a chance to settle out again which greatly improves the clarity of a beer. This was covered nicely in an experiment by Basic Brewing with a great pictorial example here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ec.libsyn.com/p/8/2/8/8286c7ec50f42984/BelgianProgress.pdf?d13a76d516d9dec20c3d276ce028ed5089ab1ce3dae902ea1d01ce873ed4cb546311&amp;amp;c_id=4557525&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ec.libsyn.com/p/8/2/8/8286c7ec50f42984/BelgianProgress.pdf?d13a76d516d9dec20c3d276ce028ed5089ab1ce3dae902ea1d01ce873ed4cb546311&amp;amp;c_id=4557525&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T16:41:37.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9404" CreationDate="2013-02-19T00:01:52.060" Score="2" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Spunding_valve_p/spunding.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spunding valve&lt;/a&gt; and can't locate an adapter from female flare to male pipe thread. Until I can, I'm planning on using &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/17606//Reinforced_Vinyl_Tubing_1_in_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reinforced PVC tubing&lt;/a&gt; to connect the valve/gauge assembly to the gas disconnect. The tubing will be attached by 1/4&quot; barb and hose clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much pressure could this setup survive? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on maintaining 10 or 15psi toward the end of fermentation, but I imagine that if I'm not careful, the pressure could shoot up without my knowledge. I'd like to avoid projectiles, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T01:12:33.953" Title="What is the pressure limit for PVC tubing on barb?" Tags="|kegging|fermenter|co2|pressure|tubing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9403" CreationDate="2013-02-19T01:12:33.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The link to the tubing you posted says the tubing rating is 250psi, and a barb with a clamp would surely tolerate at least 60psi, but I don't think figuring out the maximum pressure the system can safely handle is the way to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, ensure that your adjustable valve has a maximum pressure so that it that opens when the pressure goes above a threshold regardless of how tight you screw it. 30psi might be a safe bet, and far lower than the breaking point of any of the components in the valve assembly. You can then test this safely and verify the valve opens as expected - and know for sure that the rest of the valve assembly can also tolerate the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the morebeer pressure relief &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/16772//Ball_Lock_QD_Adjustable_Pressure_Valve_W_Gauge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;valve&lt;/a&gt; and that opens at around 20psi even when screwed right down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: (Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=375_19_220_284&amp;amp;products_id=1555&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FFL x MPT adapter&lt;/a&gt;)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rsPF6s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FFL x MPT adapter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T01:12:33.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9392" CreationDate="2013-02-19T11:05:16.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I acquired some used 15l PET water cooler bottles from work, which I use for smaller batches with some large bungs and an airlock. They're a bit of a pain to clean, but are light enough even when half full that you can give them a good shake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3147" LastEditorUserId="3147" LastEditDate="2013-02-20T19:06:16.673" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T19:06:16.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-19T20:00:04.847" Score="5" ViewCount="18702" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Background:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brewing in an kitchenette with limited storage space&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All Grain brewing, extracts are not available around here&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm looking at BIAB also, but want to have the traditional 3 vessels setup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will use 3 regular pots (mash tun, hot liquor, boil kettle), preferably storing then inside each other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to get 20l batches (on the primary fermentor) of regular strength beers ( OG &amp;lt; 1060 ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My average recipe will have those constraints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 kg of grain for the mash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water to grain ratio of 4l / kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;90 minute boils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fly sparging or batch sparging&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where I got so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mash tun&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 liters of deadspace (assuming I make it so)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20l Strike water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grain absorption of 8.3l (1.67l/kg got that number somewhere in the web)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With our sparge method we have always a max of 20l of liquid on the pot &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;&#xA;--&gt; First issue, how do I estimate the volume taken by the grains?&#xA;&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Beersmith estimates it to be 0.652 l/kg, so: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Volume of grains = 5 * 0.652 = 3.26 l&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash tun minimum size: &lt;strong&gt;23.3 l&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Boil Kettle&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deadspace 5l (assuming)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Post boil volume 25l (20l for fermentor + 5l deadspace)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Evaporation = 25l * 9%/h * 1.5h = 3.37l (this should really be from &lt;strong&gt;pre-boil&lt;/strong&gt; volume, but don't know how to get that) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;liquid expansion ( 25l + 3.37 ) * 4% = 1.13l  same as above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil kettle minimum size: 25l + 3.37l + 1.13l = &lt;strong&gt;29.5l&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus some slack to prevent boil overs.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I&lt;/strong&gt; calculate pre-boil volume?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How much&lt;/strong&gt; is the minimum extra space to avoid boilovers?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;HTL&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No deadspace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the Boil kettle we will have at least 25l + 3.3 = 28.5l of pre-boil volume&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the mash we get 18l - 8.3l = 9.7l for first runnings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HLT minimum size: 28.5l - 9.7l = &lt;strong&gt;18.8l&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would give me nicely stackable pots of a very manageable size, where not for the issues above...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;BIAB&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mash volume = pre-boil + absorption + grain volume = 28.5 + 8.3 + 3.26 = &lt;strong&gt;40 l&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: added volume taken by grains&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;No Sparge&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same as BIAB, I believe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Extract with full boil&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(just for completeness)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same as boil Kettle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastEditorUserId="2295" LastEditDate="2013-02-21T14:26:55.303" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T12:11:59.573" Title="How to calculate the minimum vessel sizes for all grain brewing" Tags="|equipment|all-grain|small-space|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9420" CreationDate="2013-02-19T20:15:34.633" Score="3" ViewCount="2949" Body="&lt;p&gt;During my first all-grain (an Imperial Stout recipe a friend and I invented), I managed to forget adding Irish Moss towards the end of the boil. After 3 weeks in primary, I've verified that fermentation has finished through consecutive days of gravity readings and I'm trying to decide what to do next. OG: 1.080, FG: 1.012, and the recipe I have written down somewhere if it's needed with regards to my questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading around lots of books, forums, and wikis, it seems no one agrees on cold-crashing, so I'd like to ask some more-specific questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that cold-crashing will clear up your beer by causing yeast and other solids to settle to the bottom. Some have argued that this is an unnecessary step for a stout, but I'd like to put in the effort to minimize bottle trub and cloudiness after in-bottle conditioning. So my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I cold-crash with the beer still in the primary fermenter bucket before transfering to secondary?&lt;/strong&gt; (My thoughts being that I can siphon from the bucket into the secondary carboy without moving it from the fridge and agitating the beer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, &lt;strong&gt;for how long and at what temperature should I cold-crash this imperial stout ale?&lt;/strong&gt; The yeast used was Wyeast 1056 (American Ale).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My fridge has other food in it, too.&lt;/strong&gt; I know there will be a suck-in effect created from the pressure differential that arises when cooling a sealed container to match a new environment's temperature, and I realize this could cause the bucket to 'suck in' potential contaminants or flavor-affecting aromas from whatever else is in the fridge. &lt;strong&gt;Is this a deal-breaker for cold-crashing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I plan to dry-hop for a week as another experiment right before bottling. &lt;strong&gt;Is there a problem with racking to secondary AFTER cold-crashing my primary bucket, raising the temperature back to 68F, then adding my sanitized and weighted hop bag?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will this process have a substantial effect on carbonation?&lt;/strong&gt; If so, should I pitch more yeast or increase the amount of priming sugar I use before bottling? I do plan on aging this beer for a long time in the bottles, so if cold-crashing will just cause the beer to take longer to carbonate, that is not a problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T22:48:59.780" Title="How to Cold Crash an Imperial Stout?" Tags="|secondary|dry-hop|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9407" CreationDate="2013-02-19T21:02:43.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have experience in cold crashing, so can't answer all the questions, but here are my 2 cents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about yeast on the bottles on a imperial stout, you probably won't see or taste any of it due to the roasted malt flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the same reason I wouldn't do dry hopping, you won't notice the smell of the hops due to the roasted malts and you will loose some of your beer to the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--- Edit ---&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems our fellow North Americans brewers did it again and created an style called &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/style/175&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;'Black Ale'&lt;/a&gt; which is a Porter/Stout/Imperial with a large load of hops. I stand corrected, go ahead and hop your stouts. In the end, freedom to experiment is in the very soul of homebrewing, the next time I say otherwise please ignore me  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--- end of edit --- &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my stouts usually take double the time to carbonate, I put the regular amount of sugar for the style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't put more sugar due to the danger of bottle bombs. Pitching more yeast kind of defeats the whole cold crashing thingy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastEditorUserId="2295" LastEditDate="2013-04-10T06:42:57.337" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T06:42:57.337" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9406" CreationDate="2013-02-20T00:22:10.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Required Volume for each vessel:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Boil Kettle: (Batch Size + 4% expansion) + (Boiloff) + (Extra Space for Boilover)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mash Tun: (Water to Grist Ratio) * (Largest Grist Bill) + (Grain Volume) * (Largest Grist Bill)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;HLT: (Strike Water) + (Sparge Water) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grain absorption&lt;/strong&gt; is easy to estimate. I have always used 0.1 gallons of absorption per 1 pound of grain, or roughly .8 liters per kilo. This is the figure used by most of the software, and it has always been very accurate for my purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Boilover&lt;/strong&gt; varies significantly by the shape of the vessel and the nature of the heat source. I like to have at least 2-3 gallons (~8-12 liters) of spare space. You can get by with less (1-2 gallons; ~4-8 liters), especially if you are willing to use something like Fermcap to limit foam production that would lead to a boilover. There is no absolute answer here, but a common rule of thumb is to buy a boil kettle that is double the volume of your intended batch size&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your pre-boil volume&lt;/strong&gt; is simply your batch size plus the amount of water you expect to lose due to boil off. The exact amount that you will lose to boil off is extremely complex, and it will depend by a number of different factors that cannot be sufficiently measured. Your best bet is to run a couple of tests to see what your average boil off will be. Until you figure out the values for your system, it is usually best to assume a low boil off, because it is always much easier to add water than to take it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastEditorUserId="3109" LastEditDate="2013-02-24T19:31:52.620" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T19:31:52.620" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9411" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-02-20T01:26:11.150" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-02-20T01:26:11.150" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T01:26:11.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9412" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-02-20T01:26:11.150" Score="0" Body="Short for malted grain - the main ingredient of beer after water. A cereal grain, usually barley, that has been soaked then dried. The soaking causes the grain to germinate, developing enzymes necessary to convert the grain's starches in to fermentable sugars." OwnerUserId="3109" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-02-21T20:55:52.257" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T20:55:52.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9413" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-02-20T01:30:01.490" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-02-20T01:30:01.490" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T01:30:01.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9414" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-02-20T01:30:01.490" Score="0" Body="A malt with enough enzymatic power to convert its own starches into fermentable sugars. A typical beer recipe will include a significant portion of a base malt." OwnerUserId="3109" LastEditorUserId="3109" LastEditDate="2013-02-20T21:09:49.760" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T21:09:49.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9349" CreationDate="2013-02-20T01:43:23.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds suspect to me. The article suggests that wine yeasts are selected for low CO2 output sound right. The primary selection criteria for yeasts in brewing is taste and alcohol tolerance while the primary selection criteria for baking yeast is that it starts off faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly if you think about chemistry, you'd have to do something with the carbon other than producing CO2.  If you could reduce the CO2 from the yeast the very serious question would be &quot;what else is it producing instead?&quot; and that would lead in my mind to health concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T01:43:23.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9419" CreationDate="2013-02-20T11:02:34.530" Score="3" ViewCount="27588" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a beer from extract (amber dryed malt extract). Recipe says OG is 1.040 FG is 1.010. Used Safebrew S-04 (english ale yeast). The wort has been sitting in primary fermenter for 10 days now. First days I had a lot of bubbles. Now a small bubble every 2-5 minutes or so. This seems to happen more when there are room temperature variations or vibrations. I do not have hidrometer to test FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I bottle? Generally speaking what airlock activity is acceptable for bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T16:30:00.553" Title="Can I bottle when still bubbling a little?" Tags="|airlock|bubble|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9416" CreationDate="2013-02-20T13:28:19.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't rely completely on airlock activity. You should take a gravity reading with your hydrometer or refractometer at the same time each day for 2-3 days. If the gravity doesn't change, then fermentation should be complete and you can go ahead and bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Airlock activity isn't a reliable way to determine if your beer is done fermenting or not. The yeast may simply be in an anaerobic state and not releasing much CO2 as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T13:28:19.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9416" CreationDate="2013-02-20T13:28:37.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hard to say, your yeast could be just slacking and get back to action when aroused by your bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually 10 days are enough for fermentation of regular gravity beers like that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But&lt;/strong&gt; if it isn't you risk having some 'bottle bombs' (yeast producing a lot more co2 than you expect and literally exploding the bottles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can risk that bottle and leave then in some place easy to clean (and be very careful handling those until you are sure they won't explode), or you can wait an week extra just to be safe and watch the airlock. Or better yet, if you can, get an hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T13:28:37.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9416" CreationDate="2013-02-20T15:15:03.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have stated, airlock activity doesn't mean much. For what its worth I bottled a cream ale while secondary was still bubbling albeit at a rather slow clip. It had sat a week longer than recommended so I figured I was safe, turns out I was right. Brew tastes fantastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;buy a hydrometer and learn to use it, honestly its your best bet to ensure everything is finishing the way its supposed to. A bubble every few minutes wouldn't concern me too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T15:15:03.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9407" CreationDate="2013-02-20T15:25:37.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold crashing will definitely reduce the amount of yeast found in the bottle. And with less yeast in suspension there will be less floatables to reflect light, meaning your beer will appear darker than it would had you skipped cold crashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with @cleber in that you definitely will need extra time to properly carb up your bottles but everything should turn out okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the second part of your question. I would crash at ~40F for not more than a week. Really 3-5 days should be sufficient to drop a lot of suspended yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for sucking in contaminants. It really depends. I wouldn't worry too much about it. With the flavor profile of the stout being what it is, I don't think you would notice anything even if for some reason something did happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T15:25:37.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9416" CreationDate="2013-02-20T15:36:33.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of holidays and illness I had a beer last year that stays 4 weeks in the primary fermenter, also with S-04. Bottled after this period and it became a good beer. Generally you can better wait longer then shorter (bomb risk).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3127" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T15:36:33.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9416" CreationDate="2013-02-20T16:30:00.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An airlock does not provide a good indication of fermentation activity. You can have significant bubbling without fermentation or significant fermentation without bubbling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing reliable way to measure fermentation is to take two gravity readings separated by a few days. If your final gravity is steady and near where you expected it to be, you can bottle. Otherwise, you should wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T16:30:00.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-20T21:12:29.243" Score="3" ViewCount="799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always boil with the lid &lt;strong&gt;off&lt;/strong&gt; my kettles (2 pots).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I've been thinking lately about the design of commercial kettles.  It seems that to more closely match a commercial boil, I should put about a 3-inch diameter hole in my kettle lids, and boil with the lid on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of things I'd need to watch out for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beware of SMM/DMS.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harder to see a boilover coming.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-formlate recipes for changed gravity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But has anyone tried this and noticed flavor differences?  How would you describe those differences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T02:48:07.670" Title="Kettle lid with hole in it" Tags="|equipment|flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9423" CreationDate="2013-02-20T23:39:45.133" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are missing some information.  First of all, often what works for commercial brewing doesn't necessarily apply to the homebrew scale; and trying to replicating may have little to no meaningfully positive effect on the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the reason pro kettles are covered is because they are being directly vented outside to prevent the brewery from becoming super humid with the massive amount of water being boiled off.  Not a real issue at the homebrew scale (see above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, these covered systems often employ an air management system that no only helps remove the humidity from the brewery, but it also increases the efficiency of volatiles (like DMS) to be removed.  That increase efficiency usually means a much lower boil rate as well.  In fact many pro kettles barely achieve a rolling boil. Just a small amount of bubbles breaking the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tried it I doubt you'd have a problem with DMS, but I certainly don't think you'll be making beer any better or worse. There is no evidence that I am aware of in the brewing literature that suggests a change in flavor or a flavor profile related to the covering of the kettles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T23:39:45.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9423" CreationDate="2013-02-21T00:49:42.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do this. I have a two inch chimney that I use to channel steam out of my kitchen. The lid also helps maintain a boil with less heat, which is convenient for me. I did tests early on with six row and very pale pilsner malts to see if I would get any DMS issues, but I didn't. One of these days I'll get around to figuring out how to measure it quantitatively, but I am generally very sensitive to DMS and I've had no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I can't imagine particular improvements in the final product. It can be a process convenience in some circumstances, but I wouldn't expect any flavor differences per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastEditorUserId="3109" LastEditDate="2013-02-21T02:48:07.670" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T02:48:07.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9427" CreationDate="2013-02-21T03:18:53.630" Score="2" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to add a 4oz bottle of watermelon extract to my secondary, do I have to boil it or can I just add the extract?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:25:41.880" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:25:41.880" Title="Addition of Watermelon extract to secondary" Tags="|fruit-extract|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9426" CreationDate="2013-02-21T04:02:23.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is packaged in a shelf-stable way (i.e., not refrigerated) and has been handled properly, you won't need to boil it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T04:02:23.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9426" CreationDate="2013-02-21T14:26:38.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling is only to sanitize whatever you are putting in the beer, if the product is completely sealed the solution inside will be fine. if you are worried about contamination you can soak the bottle in some sanitizer before you dump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the extract contains no potassium sorbate as a preservative as that will stop all fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-02-21T14:37:35.967" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T14:37:35.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-21T14:34:07.330" Score="3" ViewCount="18824" Body="&lt;p&gt;Legal issues aside, how is whisky made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you make a beer (presumably without hops), ferment it with regular beer yeast and then distill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-02-21T23:54:23.323" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T04:23:58.530" Title="Is whisky distilled from beer?" Tags="|whiskey|distillation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-02-22T18:28:13.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9429" CreationDate="2013-02-21T14:45:59.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whiskey is typically made primarily from corn (fermented in the same way as beer) and then distilled. The trick is, after distillation it has to be aged in wood barrels for a couple years, which is what gives it the flavor and color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically you can distill beer. If you do it a couple times you'll basically end up with the same spirit, which can then be aged in a barrel the same way, but corn is much easier, cheaper and traditionally the main ingredient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T14:45:59.113" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-21T14:45:59.863" Score="9" ViewCount="6406" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides forcing me to clean a lot more stuff than I would generally do, will a boil over harm my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose I will loose a lot of the break material and according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/Brew-Strong/Brew-Strong-09-01-08-Head-Retention&quot;&gt;brewstrong&lt;/a&gt; the break material has proteins vital for head retention, so I would probably have issues with that. Any others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T21:29:48.947" Title="What are the harms of a boil over?" Tags="|boilover|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9431" CreationDate="2013-02-21T16:10:26.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also lose hops as the liquid boils over, which could affect your final IBU's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T16:10:26.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9431" CreationDate="2013-02-21T17:51:09.347" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's no problem for the foam to loose the hot break, since that's made up of denatured (coagulated) proteins. Once the proteins have denatured they don't contribute to the head of the beer - they're insoluble and just fall out and sit at the bottom of the fermentor or keg. (This is covered in the podcast - Jon mentions not boiling the wort too hard to avoid denaturing many of the proteins.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending upon how much beer/hops you loose, you could have these problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;undershooting OG to hit expected post-boil volume, or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hitting OG but with smaller post-boil volume&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduced IBUs, both from the possible loss of hops, but also decreased efficiency with a smaller volume of wort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think you'd have to have one serious boilover for it to make any noticable difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-02-21T21:29:48.947" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T21:29:48.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9435" CreationDate="2013-02-21T20:03:49.630" Score="3" ViewCount="10275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm completely new to this, so I don't know if I'm doing something dumb or my regulator is broken. Here's what I'm doing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I'm doing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I connected &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/regulator/double/premium_double_gauge_542.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this regulator&lt;/a&gt; to a 5 lb. CO2 cylinder. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Closed the blue output valve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turned the regulator knob all the way down (left, i.e. counter-clockwise, i.e. out, i.e. towards the minus sign).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opened the valve on the CO2 cylinder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As expected, at this point the input (high-pressure) guage quickly goes up to about 600 psi. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NOT expected: the output (low-pressure) guage quickly goes up to 50-60 PSI (the upper limit), and the relief valve starts sputtering and releasing CO2 quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, as expected, when I shut off the cylinder, the input pressure slowly drops to zero (and then, if I hold open the relief valve or open the output, so does the output pressure.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find any configuration of knobs and valves that doesn't result in the output pressure spiking and the relief valve opening. Am I missing something? Is the regulator broken? Something else entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: If I open the output, and open the regulator a little bit (so it's just releasing CO2 into the room) then the regulator knob does control the flow rate, as expected. Turning the knob to the left reduces the flow to a fairly low rate. If I then block the flow by closing the output valve, the output pressure builds to 60 PSI in about a second and the relief valve opens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3159" LastEditorUserId="3159" LastEditDate="2013-02-21T20:13:56.577" LastActivityDate="2023-02-28T18:17:01.067" Title="Why can't I control my regulator's output pressure?" Tags="|co2|pressure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9434" CreationDate="2013-02-21T20:14:23.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like what you're doing is correct. (And I guess you've tried turning it all the way to the right - clockwise?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relief valve can be quite sensitive on some regulators, causing it to fire a little prematurely, so it might have been that, but for the fact that you say the dial jumps to 60 psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would double check that the relief lock isn't engaged - this will cause the relief valve to be open all the time. Try turning the ring fastened at the end of the relief valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still can't regulate the pressure with the knob, then the regulator isn't living up to it's name! Sounds like you have a broken regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T20:14:23.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9429" CreationDate="2013-02-21T23:33:33.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One big difference is that distilled spirits are fermented at relatively high temperatures (70s-80s) to speed up the yeast and produce as much alcohol as possible. This also results in undesirable components like higher-order alcohols and methanol which are later removed in the &quot;heads&quot; and &quot;tails&quot; of distillation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why homemade &quot;bathtub gin&quot;-style liquor during prohibition could be dangerous, because the people making it often skipped this step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T23:33:33.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-22T00:44:18.200" Score="0" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would 4oz of watermelon extract be the right amount to add to the secondary or bottling bucket for a 5 gallon batch?&#xA; I am in a wort transformation contest with a 5 gallon wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T04:24:14.740" Title="Extract addition" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9441" CreationDate="2013-02-22T01:10:05.837" Score="1" ViewCount="713" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my first lager (a doppelbock) about a month ago and I'm thinking about bottling it in about a week. I followed some advice from my LHBS on the proper schedule for a lager that I now question the validity of (after reading a book on lagering), but below is the odd schedule I followed (all degrees are in fahrenheit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 Day - 60 degrees&#xA;1 Week - 50 degrees&#xA;Switch to secondary fermenter&#xA;1 Week - 50 degrees&#xA;1 Day - 65 degrees for diacetyl rest&#xA;Dropped temperature about 5 degrees per day until reaching 37 degrees and holding for 3 weeks&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OG was 1.079 and it was down to 1.030 after the first 7 days. Obviously, I'll check the gravity prior to bottling, but assuming it's on target, should I do anything special before bottling? I intend to prime and store the bottles for at least three weeks at about 65 degrees before drinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know if the beer still contains enough yeast to carbonate the beer? If I do have to add yeast, how much should I add for my 5 gallon batch? Is there a formula for determining this? Should I use the same strain (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp838.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WLP838&lt;/a&gt;) I used during primary fermentation? Does 5 Oz. of priming sugar sound like the right amount to use for priming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T02:11:27.983" Title="Bottling a Lager" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9438" CreationDate="2013-02-22T02:06:52.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;4oz in 5 gallons for a what I imagine to be a fairly bland fruit extract doesn't sound like any problem. I've not tasted watermelon extract, but I do eat watermelon, and easily 4oz per serving. Watermelon has a subtle flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a wheat beer, the character is dominated by the esters produced by the yeast. Even though this is a competition with wort plus extras, don't underestimate how much you can do with just decent fermentation to get a balanced flavour profile. With a clean ferment, even a subtle addition will show through, but it's not going to be the entire definition of your beer - the clean ferment will do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, even though you're in a competition with everyone brewing from the same malt, your beer isn't just a result of what you add - your process is what will make you stand out. It could be that many of your competitors ferment too cold or too warm and produce a beer that tastes very different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, sure 4oz sounds fine, but be sure you reduce your water addition by 4oz if the extract is watery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-02-22T04:24:14.740" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T04:24:14.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9439" CreationDate="2013-02-22T02:11:27.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The profile sounds reasonable, apart from just 1 week before racking. Given your substantial SG (1.079) You want to leave the lager to get to within 3/4 of your final OG. I wouldn't rack until it hits 1.022, and for at least 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then rack to secondary, and be sure there's enough yeast to finish off the job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have plenty of yeast either way, it stays in suspension for quite some time and is stirred up by the racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T02:11:27.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9429" CreationDate="2013-02-22T04:23:58.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about Scotch whisky, the answer is yes!  And it's known as &quot;distiller's beer&quot;, made from just barley, yeast, and water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more info here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.maltmadness.com/malt-whisky/beginners-guide-04-distilling.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.maltmadness.com/malt-whisky/beginners-guide-04-distilling.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3164" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T04:23:58.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9447" CreationDate="2013-02-22T09:07:55.227" Score="1" ViewCount="1867" Body="&lt;p&gt;[Mod: distilling is normally off-topic here, however, this question could equally be about making beer, since the primary subject is mashing/sparging and spent grain, so I'm keeping this question open so long it doesn't touch on distilling.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been reading about the whiskey making process, but I do not make it.  From what I understand, in very basic terms, a barley soup is made, and the water is drained off.  This water contains enzymes etc from the barley, and this water only content is fermented, and so on in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While Im sure this is hardly accurate it may be a general approximation in layman terms.  If there are fundamental errors of understanding, please correct me.  But Im understanding that the actual barley kernals are separated from the mix before fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question revolves around what is left of the barley after it is separated from the mixture.  Are they whole?  Do they melt into the water leaving just waste behind?  Something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this leftover waste have a term I can look up to find more about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;I am not looking for things to do with this waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3165" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T14:24:19.117" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T22:22:26.240" Title="when making whiskey (or beer) what is left of the barley?" Tags="|barley|spent-grain|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9449" CreationDate="2013-02-22T09:35:32.900" Score="2" ViewCount="631" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the head improve something on the beer flavour/aroma?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back home in Brasil, the folk has it that head is useful to keep the beer cold, but in colder lands (and warmer beers) as they have in Europe that is probably a non-issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, some fast drinkers over there would argue for smaller head to get more beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why head and head retention are important?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T18:18:13.617" Title="Why is the beer head and head retention important?" Tags="|head|head-retention|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9443" CreationDate="2013-02-22T10:03:44.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the process before distilling is basically the same as beer making, here is what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You mill the barley and make your 'barley soup', the mash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You then drain the liquid from the soup (wort) and put that to ferment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back on your soup kettle (mash tun) you are left with the barley kernels and husks. During the mash you extracted a (hopefully) large amount of the sugars from the kernels but some are still left behind as unconverted starches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, the term for that is 'spent grain'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T10:03:44.527" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9444" CreationDate="2013-02-22T12:06:18.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer head is mostly an aesthetic issue. Some argue that it also serves to trap aromatics, but this effect is debatable. For the most part, though, if you're not concerned with it there's no reason that you should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T12:06:18.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9443" CreationDate="2013-02-22T13:37:54.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a more technical description, you want to look into the process of &quot;mashing&quot;. Beer mashing and spirits mashing operate on essentially the same principles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a typical barley malt, roughly 80% of the mash by weight will be converted into sugars. In other words, if you mash with 10 pounds of malt, roughly 8 pounds will end up dissolved in your wort and 2 pounds will remain behind as solid chaff. Most of it is fibrous husk material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spent grain doesn't have much nutritional value for humans, but it is frequently fed to livestock. Many breweries burn it as fuel, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T13:37:54.187" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9406" CreationDate="2013-02-22T15:29:15.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the formulae can give you some insight into the appropriate sizes, there are quite a few unknowns. I would instead take into account the common wisdom for kettle sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general rule of thumb is to have the boil kettle around twice the volume of your target batch. I brew 38 liter/10 gallon batches and use a 75 liter/20 gallon blichmann kettle. Pre-boil volume is typically just shy of 3/4 of the kettle capacity so boilovers are seldom, but it has happened once. The absolute minimum would be 1.5x your batch size, but the closer you get to 2x batch size the more convenient and pleasurable it will be to brew. Even with 2x batch size, you cannot totally eliminate boilovers, but they are seldom. As you reduce the kettle size, you have to be more attentive to boilovers, so bigger is definitely better here if you can accommodate it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the MLT, you may go smaller, down to 1.2x the batch size if you are sure you won't be making anything above 1.060. In my experience, the volume in my mash is never more the final batch size for regular strength beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the HLT, you generally need about twice as much water as the final batch volume. My HLT is 2x my batch bolume - fill the kettle up at the start of brewday and use almost all of it - maybe a gallon left at most. Having more water also helps with the HERMS heat exchange. You could in principle go smaller if you're not using HERMS or if you're prepared to heat the water multiple times, e.g. heat the strike water, then any additional infusions, and then the water for the sparge. The HLT gives you the most flexibility and could be as small as 0.75x your batch size, but the smaller size will make the system less convenient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summarizing these figures for minimum sizes and useful range:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BK: 1.5-2 x batch size = 30-40l. (Go for the largest you can accommodate.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MLT: 1.2+ x batch size = 24-40l.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HLT: 0.75-2 x batch size = 15-40l. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These figures tie in well with your original estimates.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I'm assuming you'll be mounting an outlet valve on the kettles. If so, I doubt you'll be able to store the kettles inside each other. It may be better instead to just get 3 kettles the same size 35-40l and stack them vertically when not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2: If you don't have the space for 3 kettles now, when why not just go with a single 40l kettle and do BIAB until you have space. I have a 3 kettle setup, but sometimes wish I could do the same with 1 - they take up a lot of room (see my profile pic.) The danger of reducing the size down to the absolute smallest so that the kettles can be stacked is that you spend quite a bit on the kettles, yet you may still end up with a hampered brewday due to inadequate kettle sizes. Also you'll need a pretty big stove top/hob to have room for all three kettles, if you're brewing in the kitchen. If you go with a single kettle solution now, you'll be able to brew all grain without needing space for 3 kettles, and also be sure you have stovetop space and power to be able to brew effectively. You can then always add 2 additional kettles later when your circumstances change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-02-25T01:56:02.093" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T01:56:02.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9444" CreationDate="2013-02-22T18:18:13.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While Head is primarially aesthetic, you can gather some useful information about your brew process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could possibly be under pitching or fermenting too warm leading to an increase in fusel alcohols, which have been shown to destroy the compound used to create foam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are cleansing with household agents, the residue from them may reduce your head, its best to use brewing specific cleansers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your beer isn't otherwise carbed up make sure you are using the proper ratio of priming sugar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say that if the beer tastes okay in the end you're doing okay, but a good head and carbonation has been shown to lead to a better mouthfeel for beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/12/19/beer-head-retention/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/12/19/beer-head-retention/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/06/25/enhancing-beer-head-retention-for-home-brewers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/06/25/enhancing-beer-head-retention-for-home-brewers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T18:18:13.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9452" CreationDate="2013-02-22T19:05:47.413" Score="4" ViewCount="1429" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I add a 12oz or 24oz of honey to a cooled 5 gallon wort without boiling it or does it have to be boiled. Does 12oz or 24 oz sound like the right addition to the wort, I was going to add 4oz of watermelon extract at bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T23:26:31.427" Title="Adding honey to a cooled wort" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9450" CreationDate="2013-02-22T19:52:20.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mead is often made without boiling the honey at all, so I would assume you'd be OK. I've added honey to beer with good effect twice now, but I did it after the primary malt fermentation was done. Adding the honey before you pitch will be fine, but you will loose some honey aromatics due to the vigorous primary fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T19:52:20.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9450" CreationDate="2013-02-22T22:01:31.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are probably best suited to add the honey at the last half or last third of primary fermentation.  This way, the yeast will have already metabolized/fermented many of the more complex sugars, such as maltose and maltriose.  I would suggest boiling a few cups of water, letting it cool a bit, mix in your honey, cool the rest of the way down to your fermentation temperature, then add right into the fermenter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another benefit of doing it this way is since the yeast have already gone through the growth phase, bacterial contamination is unlikely, since that beer is the 'yeast gang's territory' at that point!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you add the honey when you first pitch, they will go to work on the simple stuff first and you might be left with a sweeter beer than you would like.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T22:01:31.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9454" CreationDate="2013-02-22T22:44:36.967" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use 4oz of watermelon extract at bottling time,do I have to cut back on the amount priming sugar to prevent bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-02-25T00:53:46.280" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T00:53:46.280" Title="Addition of extract at bottling time" Tags="|bottling|fruit-extract|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9453" CreationDate="2013-02-23T01:38:52.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That would really depend on the contents of the extract. If the extract contains a significant amount of fermentable sugar, yes. If not, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T01:38:52.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-23T02:23:41.380" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are the ingredients for the extracts I will use in a 5 gallon batch, should I still use the priming suger. &lt;strong&gt;Orange&lt;/strong&gt;- oil of orange, alcohol, water. &lt;strong&gt;Watermelon&lt;/strong&gt;-propylene glycol, alcohol, water, natural watermelon flavor &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T00:08:31.890" Title="Additives for 5 gallon batch" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9457" CreationDate="2013-02-23T14:34:13.470" Score="3" ViewCount="1529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd just like to get some opinions on the most efficient way to prepare the water for my brew day. I'm pretty new to brewing and still using extract with a few specialty grains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read it's good to steep the grains in just a gallon or two of water, then add 1-2 more to boil the wort, finally adding more in the end to hit the 5 gallon goal. I'm using city water, which needs to be dechlorinated before use. I'm using (pieces of) campden tablets for this purpose, but it seems rather complicated and likely wasteful to individually dechlorinate each addition of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering preparing a 6-7 gallon bucket of water, dechlorinating it once and then pouring water into the brew as needed but I'm concerned about possible contamination, particularly in the final water addition. If I make sure to clean and sanitize the bucket and then keep it covered while dealing with everything else will it be okay after 1-2 hours of sitting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3171" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T21:44:19.350" Title="Preparing water for brew day" Tags="|water|contamination|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9456" CreationDate="2013-02-23T15:09:37.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no risk of microbial contamination from anything you add before or during the boil. The act of boiling itself will sufficiently purify the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water that you add at the end of the boil is a slightly different story. For the majority of people in the majority of circumstances, adding clean and unboiled water is no problem so long as it has been handled properly between tap and fermentor. Your water source should not infect your wort if your city's water treatment department is doing its job. But, it's possible that there's something nasty growing in your pipes, that something is stuck to your faucet, or that your water department isn't doing its job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiling top-off water before use is the safest option, but you can probably get away without doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T15:09:37.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9456" CreationDate="2013-02-23T18:57:00.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you store the water in a sanitized bucket with lid then you'll be fine. The water will still be sanitary 1-2 hours later, assuming it was sanitary in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 campden tablet is enough to declorinate 20 gallons. At higher dosage, it acts as a sanitizer. If you were declorinating just 1-2 gallons of water at a time, then it's possible you were also using a high enough dose to sterilize, since cutting up a tablet into 1/20ths is pretty tricky! If your city water isn't 100% sterile, then you may not have noticed that due to the sterilization affect of the high dosage. When you then switch to declorinating the whole amount at once, the dosage will be more accurate since you can use half a tablet which is easier to prepare but you'll lose the sanitization affect, which may be a problem if your water isn't sanitary to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-02-23T21:40:10.850" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T21:40:10.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9456" CreationDate="2013-02-23T21:44:19.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using city water since i started and have never dechlorinated or sanitized my water in any way.  The chlorine in your boil will be boiled off and I've never had a problem. Now this isn't the kosher way to do it. A lot of home brewers would have an exception with what I do but I'll leave it here for reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have been brewing beer for thousands of years with much worse than common tap water, (Also fermenting without an airlock) If you ruin you're beer something went WAY wrong because it's not that common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T21:44:19.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9462" CreationDate="2013-02-23T22:32:16.340" Score="3" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed an IPA yesterday. All went well and it is bubbling away today. However, my friend's brewing fridge/fermenting chamber just freed up and he suggested putting my brew in there. It would obviously be better to ferment it in the fridge with temp control etc. I'd have to drive it to his house (5 mins away). Is it too late to move it? Will that just oxidise the beer? Or is it early enough that I won't have to worry about that yet? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3131" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-03-21T01:21:50.093" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T01:21:50.093" Title="Too late to move a brew?" Tags="|fermentation|oxidation|transport|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6213" CreationDate="2013-02-23T22:59:36.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These above answers are all correct and very useful. In addition, I did learn a rule of thumb in my travels...here comes...the size of my partial boils is based on the amount of extract, one gallon of water for each 2 # of extract. So my partial boils usually are around 4 gallons. I do not use a chiller, but lots of ice in a bath. Say if you have a recipe calling for 8 # of extract, and you are only comfortable with a 3 gallon boil, add 6# of extract at the beginning of the boil, and add the rest with 10-15 minutes left. This method alledgedly prevents overconcentration and improves quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3172" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T22:59:36.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9460" CreationDate="2013-02-23T22:59:41.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go ahead and move it. You won't oxidize the beer - the headspace is already filled with co2, and the yeast will scavenge any oxygen that does make it into the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T22:59:41.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9464" CreationDate="2013-02-24T10:07:44.113" Score="2" ViewCount="1650" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I tried my very first brew using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.coopers.com.au/shop/product/DBK676/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coopers DIY kit&lt;/a&gt;. I was told the &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.coopers.com.au/shop/product/DBK918/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lager mix&lt;/a&gt; that comes with the kit probably won't taste amazing, but it should be hardy and forgiving for beginners that don't have a temperature controlled fridge yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions recommend making sure the water temperature is between 21-27 degrees celcius before adding yeast. But it also said to add the yeast ASAP after mixing. So, stupidly, I didn't do a wet run and didn't have any (properly) cold water and as a result &lt;strong&gt;my mix was at 36 degrees when I added the yeast!&lt;/strong&gt; Even now, an hour later I think it's at about 34 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, instead of bottling in a few days then waiting a month to find out if it's ruined, I was considering scrapping this batch and trying again (with a wet run first to get the temperature right this time). So my question is: &lt;strong&gt;will tasting it in a few days be sufficient to tell if I need to start again?&lt;/strong&gt; How exactly will I know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Original Gravity measured at 38, but I don't know if that's relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note I've looked at this question which is similar to mine, but a bit of a different issue: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4555/i-think-i-ruined-my-first-brew&quot;&gt;I think I ruined my first brew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any advice. I'm really looking forward to my first good batch :) Then, once I have a proper fridge I would love to try some more adventurous recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3174" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T14:31:29.670" Title="How early can I know if a brew is ruined?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|lager|first-time-brewer|taste|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9463" CreationDate="2013-02-24T14:31:29.670" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get hold of another sachet of yeast as a backup. If you have a local homebrew store, almost any type of yeast will work for this kit, but I'd recommend Safale US-05 if you can get that, since that will give you a cleaner profile. If they have liquid yeasts, then Wyeast 1056 or White Labs WLP001 will produce equivalent results. Once you've got hold of a new stock of yeast, simply pitch it when the batch has cooled to room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why do you need a new sachet of yeast? 36 C is a very high pitching temperature. It's questionable if the yeast will survive that - it is dependent on the specific strain of yeast - some will, others won't - so the yeast may have not survived the pitch. Even if it did survive, you will certainly taste the high pitching temperature it in the beer - it will get a hot alcohol taste like bad whiskey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pitching a new sachet of yeast when the temperature is down to the recommended range will both ensure that there is yeast available (if the first pitch didn't survive) plus ensure there is yeast fermenting at recommended temperature, which will reduce the amount of hot alcohols and esters produced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this, then taste after a week then you'll know if the batch was affected in any way - among other flavors it will taste fruity and/or like bad spirits. But even if you don't like the taste, I recommend you keep hold of the batch. After a week, the beer will still be very green, and it takes a few batches to become familiar with how that tastes. In your shoes, I'd leave the beer at least a couple of weeks before deciding if you are prepared to bottle or not, and I would probably go ahead and bottle even if it didn't taste great. This will give you a practice run with bottling/carbonation, and you may even be surprised at the results after 4-5 weeks - time can be a wonderful healer when it comes to fixing beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get some more yeast, and pitch at room temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take a gravity sample taste after a week &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat again after two weeks, and then bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;taste bottle at 4 weeks (2 weeks after bottling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T14:31:29.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9453" CreationDate="2013-02-24T14:40:33.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ingredients you posted on the other question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Orange- oil of orange, alcohol, water. Watermelon-propylene glycol,&#xA;  alcohol, water, natural watermelon flavor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;don't contain any fermentables, so you should add priming sugar also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go easy on the amount - 4oz in 5 gallons is the upper limit what you need, so you could start with less than that, e.g 3oz. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T14:40:33.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9467" CreationDate="2013-02-24T19:50:34.323" Score="2" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend is building a manifold and the copper connections he bought have a bit of tin (Sn) on it, supposedly to make the solder easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He is not going to solder them so the tin will remain in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to use during the mash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T21:03:37.273" Title="Is tin safe on the mash?" Tags="|equipment|mash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9466" CreationDate="2013-02-24T21:03:37.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a metallurgist, but Tin is widely used to coat cans for food preservation, and is also present in the solder (leaded and non-leaded) used in water systems. With that in mind a small amount on the ends of the manifold should be no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Another large application for tin is corrosion-resistant tin plating&#xA;  of steel. Because of its low toxicity, tin-plated metal is also used&#xA;  for food packaging.&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tin is corrosion resistent, even in sea-water, just a little less resistant than &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_metal_corrodes_with_salt_water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;passivized stainless steel&lt;/a&gt;, so it should be fine in the mash. If it does oxidize, the oxide film prevents further oxidization by acting as an insoluble protective barrier, much like passivisation layer of stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would leave it, but if you are concerned, it can be easily melted with a blow torch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T21:03:37.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9469" CreationDate="2013-02-25T01:56:29.603" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing a partial mash, but using a pre-hopped-extract.  I'm adding flavour and aroma hop additions in the 15 to 1 minute range, but no bittering hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long does my boil time need to be?  Currently I'm boiling for 30 minutes - could I cut this down to 15 minutes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3176" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T09:03:34.740" Title="Boil Time for Partial Mash with a Hopped Extract" Tags="|partial-mash|partial-boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9468" CreationDate="2013-02-25T02:01:51.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pre-hopped extract doesn't need boiling like regular hops, since the bittering acids are already isomerized and are soluble in the extract. So if you were boiling for 30 minutes to get more bitterness, then you don't need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: If you're mashing with a lot of pilsner malt, then a longer boil is beneficial to drive off SMS, which later becomes DMS - creamed corn flavor. But you also want a longer boil to help hit your target OG (unless you compensate with not sparging and using a lot more grain) and also to get a good hot break + later cold break to reduce chill haze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;30 minutes with the extract in the boil sounds about right, since boiling extract hard is not good for the flavor. Alternatively, you can leave the extract out of the boil for the first 30-45 minutes and do a full hour boil, but whether you need that depends upon how much grain you have. If it's just a couple of pounds of grain, then 30 mins will be fine. More than that, and you may want to boil for longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-02-25T09:03:34.740" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T09:03:34.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-25T19:36:06.827" Score="6" ViewCount="4880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new stainless steel brew pot and it doesn't have any quantity markings.  How do you recommend marking each gallon?  I tried to make an indent but it's not very noticeable, any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-02-26T00:02:51.517" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T12:36:47.237" Title="Marking your brew pot?" Tags="|equipment|kettle|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9470" CreationDate="2013-02-25T19:46:31.363" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution I use is to mark my spoon with permanent marker. I have marks for each half gallon. Works really well without messing with the kettle itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This obviously is kettle specific, so if you are using multiple kettles you can have markings of different color to differentiate the different markings per kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T19:46:31.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9450" CreationDate="2013-02-25T23:26:31.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally try to use unpasteurized honey whenever possible.  Since I am shelling out for the good stuff, I don't want to apply heat because it cooks off many of the flavors.  I usually mix the honey with water and then add crushed campden tablets(Potassium Metabisulphite).  Just do it the night before you plan to brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though the flavor nuances you gain using this technique may be hard to detect with the watermelon extract.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit - I forgot to mention that honey itself is antibacterial.  If you are using pasteurized honey you should be good to go as long as you just opened it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T23:26:31.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9470" CreationDate="2013-02-26T09:13:32.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ya agreed &lt;em&gt;JMEYERING&lt;/em&gt; I brew in converted kegs and use the dip tube that came with it (a long stainless pipe/tube very similar to a corney keg dip tube but bigger and thicker = perfect for measurement and stirring). I poured in one gallon at a time into my keg (measure right don't just use a 1 gal jug, although you will be very close after 5 or 10 gal that &quot;little bit off&quot; will equal way more off. Anyways beyond the simple, I marked each gallon by dipping the tube in, duh, but pull it out very quick (metal specific) because the water doesnt &quot;cling very well (marking in the water is ok only if you don't put anything in the water, ie. hand, as that will skew your reading). I used a hacksaw to mark each gallon then went back and marked each half gallon with an offset and smaller hash mark. I think half gallon marks are very important for the obvious reasons but quarter gallon marks get cramped and confusing, instead use the 1 gal and 1/2 gal marks to calculate 1/4- measurements during measuring. Be careful to always take your readings at the same place if you have a concaved bottom like I do and keep your measurement tool vertical when marking and measuring (easy to get off when trying to look in). So in closing I agree again with &lt;em&gt;JMEYERING&lt;/em&gt; in using whatever you stir with to mark, and to add, indent the utensil instead of marking it. CHEERS MAN AND GOOD LUCK!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T09:13:32.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9470" CreationDate="2013-02-26T18:42:55.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an aluminum yardstick, which let's you do pretty accurate measurements on multiple pots/kettles, without needing to use a marker on anything (I've had problems with marker wearing off and worry about toxicity of the ink). Put a gallon of water in your pot, measure how high it is, and write it down somewhere. Then you'll always be able calculate what the measurement on the yardstick is equal to. If you keep the measurement conversions for each pot written down, you can use the yardstick for lots of different pots. The aluminum washes off easily and can be sanitized, so you can use it post-boil. I think it was $3.50 at Home Depot. I was looking for stainless steel yardstick, but couldn't find it without a cork backing, but the aluminum is fine - lots of people brew with aluminum and it's only in contact with the wort for a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do a DIY project you can also put a hole in your pot and get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewhardware.com/wlsightglass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;weldless sight glass kit&lt;/a&gt;, but that seems like a lot of extra work to me plus more stuff to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2013-02-27T23:48:18.130" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T23:48:18.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="694" CreationDate="2013-02-27T00:36:14.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep it as simple as possible. If you use dry yeast, simply sprinkle it over wort and seal. This has worked every time for me over a period of 15 years plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3185" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T00:36:14.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9478" CreationDate="2013-02-27T22:03:22.777" Score="9" ViewCount="33185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a batch of beer, fermented and then bottled. When I open the bottle, there is a lot of foam and it flows out of the bottle for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause this? I assume it's too much CO2 and thus too much priming sugar? (This is a 5 Gallon Batch, mixed with Water/Sugar in a bottling bucket, so no Fizz Drops)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I leave the bottles alone for another week or two? Could temperature cause it? (Temperatature varied between 68 and 76 degrees F during the entire process)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/northern-brewer-s-white-house-honey-ale-beer-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;White House Honey Ale Kit&lt;/a&gt; and brewed on 1/24/2013&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooled the Wort in a Water Bath. I didn't have a Wort Chiller at the time and it was hard to get the Water cold enough, so that process easily took 45 minutes. Original Gravity was lower than expected (I think 1047 instead of 1062), Final Gravity was 1011.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put it in a 5 Gallon Fermenting Bucket and let it sit there (I don't have a secondary fermentor, although I'm about to order one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it sit in my closet, temperatures between low 60's and mid-70's (my AC can only set to either heat or cool, so controlling the temperature is an issue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottled on 2/21 with the provided 5oz of priming sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opened a bottle on 2/27 =&gt; Beer was foamy, a little foam rose and escaped, beer tastes a bit flat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible issues I see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Took too long to chill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only one fermentor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lack of good temperature control&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opened too early after bottling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I do not exactly know how each of these factors change the taste, I'm not sure what's really causing it. I bought a Wort Chiller and I'm about to buy a secondary fermentor, but I can't do much about the temperature unless someone has an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2028" LastEditorUserId="2028" LastEditDate="2013-02-28T05:25:50.467" LastActivityDate="2021-05-31T18:17:48.317" Title="Why is there so much foam when I open the bottle?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|co2|foam|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9476" CreationDate="2013-02-28T01:23:58.917" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of three things:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Incomplete fermentation prior to bottling... If the beer wasn't completely done before bottling residual sugar (plus priming sugar) is over carbonating the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Too much priming sugar.  Re-examine how much you used.  Consider that if the beer was significantly cool prior to bottling that a fair amount of CO2 would have been already in the beer post fermentation.  Hence the priming sugar needed to be adjusted.  This shouldn't really be a problem if you were fermenting it as an ale as you indicate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A contaminating microbe got into your beer and that microbe is fermenting away on the non-fermentables left by the brewers yeast.  It is possible to have a contamination that creates gushers prior to really tasting any off flavors as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to rescue the brew by venting caps by lifting them partly and then re-capping to off gas some of the CO2.  If you can chill the entire batch of bottles down to fridge temp, you might prevent more CO2 from developing.  Also storing them super cold prior to opening might help keep some of the CO2 in solution.  In reality, if you have gushers, there isn't alot you can do to remedy it now.  Sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-02-28T02:50:16.007" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T02:50:16.007" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9476" CreationDate="2013-02-28T02:59:02.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is uneven blending of the beer and priming sugar solution. Did you mix the sugar/water solution yourself, or just let it mix naturally from the beer being racked on top? Depending upon how viscous it is, it can sit at the bottom of the fermenting bucket even though the beer is swirling. This means you end up with some bottles undercarbonated, while others are overcarbonated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people try to use as little water as possible in the priming sugar solution, so not to dilute the beer too much, but this can backfire! Best to use a little more water to be sure it's uniformly mixed with the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T02:59:02.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6507" CreationDate="2013-02-28T04:41:08.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cider will ferment for about a week, maybe a bit more depending on the sugar level of cider you are using.  Being that close to 1.000 means it's done fermenting, time to transfer into your secondary for clarity or drink away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3192" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T04:41:08.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9476" CreationDate="2013-02-28T07:42:20.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when opening a beer to early after bottling, it will foam, and taste flat.&#xA;Especially when you have high carbonation. 5 oz in 5 gallons equals a co2 volume of 2.9 which is quite high for an american ale.&#xA;When I bottle my belgian ales I usually have a carbonation around 3.&#xA;These will foam if opened too early but after a few weeks they will have a nice carbonation and wont foam at all when opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would wait a few weeks and keep them in a safe container before jumping to any conclusions. After two weeks put one in the refrigirator and leave it there for a day before opening. if it still foams then you have bigger problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see something that looks like a white ring of sediment in the bottle around the neck, then you probably have an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2637" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T07:42:20.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-28T11:44:20.020" Score="12" ViewCount="37512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing my first homebrew an American cream ale.  Was just reading into secondary fermentation.  In the directions and books I've read it seems to suggest doing this.  But as I search online and read more into it, it seems many say to avoid this and allow the beer to sit in the primary until complete and ready to move to a bottling bucket.  I was just curious if leaving it in the primary then going right to bottling, is there a way to give it a little clarity, I'm not looking for bud light clear here but just want to make it look a bit more appealing without sediment flowing around.  And the main way, without adding chemicals, seems to be secondary racking.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3193" LastActivityDate="2023-09-07T00:21:42.560" Title="How to clear beer" Tags="|beer|secondary-fermentation|secondary|clarity|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9482" CreationDate="2013-02-28T14:00:10.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Racking to secondary and letting it sit for a few more days or a week can improve clarity slightly but is by no means necessary. It will however make things easier to bottle without stirring up sediment in the process. If you're careful you can bottle straight from primary with about the same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing since this is your first brew that you will be carbonating naturally in the bottles? In this case, even if your beer is extremely clear when you bottle, the yeast still have to eat and multiply quite a few times before carbonation is complete, so you're going to have sediment either way. The only way around that is to force-carb which requires a bit more equipment (keg, CO2 tank, beer gun) but affords you the ability to filter your beer and have it ready to drink immediately, and avoids bottle bombs or undercarbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T14:00:10.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9482" CreationDate="2013-02-28T19:25:25.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Racking to secondary most definitely helps with clarity, if you are unwilling (or unable) to rack to a secondary another great option is using gelatin to clear up the brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2/3 cup water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 tsp gelatin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat the two ingredients together in a microwave (most recommend 15 sec increments) shoot for about 150F and then stir to dissolve the gelatin into the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once its fully dissolved you can dump it into your fermenter, gently stir  and wait for nice clear beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gelatin works best in a cold environment and you could clear it up nice within two days or so. If you cant store cold, you may need to wait a week for the gelatin to do its thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T19:25:25.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9482" CreationDate="2013-02-28T19:47:46.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of techniques to clarify beer. Filtering is the quickest method but will strip out the yeast you need for natural carbonation, and potentially also some flavor compounds. Finings (gelatin, isinglass, others) will help large particles drop out; I'd recommend reading posts here about finings and/or talking to your LHBS about techniques with finings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settling over time is the easiest, as it requires no additional equipment. Chilling the finished beer can help, but make sure to do so slowly and not to freeze the beer, in order to protect the remaining yeast in suspension from death and stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may transfer to secondary to help with settling, I have done this in the past for longer clarifying (two weeks) of low-flocculating strains. Mind that the act of transferring is going to stir up sediment, and is not truly necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best method is to leave your beer in the primary fermenter for a couple of weeks until it is clear, and then gently siphon from the top to a bottling bucket or keg, doing your best not to disturb the sediment as you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T19:47:46.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9482" CreationDate="2013-02-28T20:45:41.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the biggest cause of non-clear beer &lt;strong&gt;in your glass&lt;/strong&gt; is chill haze.  You can rush from fermentation being complete to bottling, without any significant &quot;conditioning&quot; time, and the beer in the bottles will become crystal clear quite soon.  But put those bottles in the fridge and you'll have chill haze by the time the beer is at drinking temperature.  Leave that same beer in the fridge for a few weeks and it will likely be very clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will all be true too if you let a beer settle at about room temperature for several weeks, with or without racking to a secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd say that getting a clear beer isn't so much about racking out of the primary or not, but rather what are the conditions (particularly temperature) of the beer after fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't do much cold-conditioning myself, but I'd say if you really want clear beer, and you have the means to do so, rack to a secondary and keep it at near-freezing temperature for about 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T20:45:41.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9492" CreationDate="2013-02-28T22:11:36.803" Score="4" ViewCount="1312" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the recipes for root beer end with, bottle up your root beer in a plastic bottles.  Put it away and monitor the bottles when they become hard they are ready, 2-3 days.  Put them in your fridge to kill or make the yeast go to sleep, Enjoy !  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if I don't have a fridge or enough space in the fridge.  How can I make root beer that I can keep at room temp ?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-03-01T00:34:46.070" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T09:41:10.047" Title="Make root beer without a refrigerator" Tags="|yeast|root-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9460" CreationDate="2013-03-01T05:24:20.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;24 hours in, I don't think you have much to worry about. As mdma suggested, you still have active yeast that would gladly clean out any oxygen that finds its way into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I would either move the fermenter very soon or not at all. The vast majority of your fermentation is going to happen in the first 2-3 days. That period of most active fermentation is when your beer is most sensitive to temperature. Once that very active fermentation has passed, it won't do much good to move the beer to your friend's temperature controlled fermentation chamber. The tail end of your fermentation just isn't going to have a sufficient flavor impact to make the move worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2054" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T05:24:20.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9406" CreationDate="2013-03-01T12:11:59.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Draining from all the answers and comments above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil Kettle  = (((batch size + deadspace) + (boil off/h * boil length)  ) +  expansion) + extra Space for Boil over&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 9% boil off, 4% expansion, 90 min boil, a 20l batch and 5l dead space:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;BK = (((20l + 5l) + (9% * 1.5)) + 4% )+ extra for boil over&#xA;BK = 29.5l extra for boil over&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rule of thumb which says the brew kettle should be between 1.5 to 2 times the batch size we get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Boil over = 20l * 1.5 = 30l&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Boil over = 20l * 2 = 40l&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1.5 times figure looks dangerously close to the volume of the liquid, while the 2 times provide 10l of extra space, or 35% extra, which could be applied to the formula above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash Tun= (Water to Grist Ratio) * (Largest Grist Bill) + (Grain Volume) * (Largest Grist Bill)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;MT = 4 * 5 + 0.652 * 5 = 23.3 l&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot Liquor tun = Strike water + sparge water &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While that is correct, if we assume that the strike water is heated in the mash tun, the HLT needs only hold sparge water:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;HLT = sparge water&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is, with the numbers in the question :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Sparge water = Pre boil volume - first runnings&#xA;Sparge water = 28.5 - ( strike water - absorption - dead space)&#xA;Sparge water = 28.5 - ( 20 - 8.3 - 2)= 28.5 - 10.3 = 18l&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if you want to heat all the water in the HLT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;HLT = 20 + 18 = 38l&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, a believe is the closest one can get to a set of formulas, which while having the limitations pointed out in the answers/comments, gives useful numbers, backed up by some logic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T12:11:59.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1081" CreationDate="2013-03-01T12:19:33.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whirlpool hops and flameout hops actually have different meanings although the names do not  explain them very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In professional brewhouses, the &quot;whirlpool&quot; is a large vat where the hot wort is separated from the trub by means of whirlpooling. It is still hot at this stage and will last approx. 1 hour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical homebrew procedures call for the wort to be chilled immediately after flame out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can imagine, hops added in the professional brew house after flame out would impart a very different flavour to those added by the homebrewer, as the professional brew house has them soaking in hot wort for an hour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you see a recipe call for whirlpool additions, they typically mean to add the hops at flame-out and leave them there for 40-60 minutes BEFORE chilling your wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method can add huge flavour and aroma. It also adds bitterness, so you need to anticipate this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3196" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T12:19:33.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9487" CreationDate="2013-03-01T13:52:14.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few alternative methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can force carbonate by using a CO2 tank. This may be expensive if you don't already have the equipment. (I make soda, but only because I had the equipment from beer brewing!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using potassium sorbate to stop the yeast propagation (but not fermentation - existing yeast will still continue to ferment.) Apart from the lack of control, that would mean opening each bottle and adding something, which might cause the soda to foam over and/or reduce the level of carbonation. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heating to pasteurize - most yeast will not survive above 40-45C, so raising the temperature to that point may help stall fermentation. However, this will also greatly increase the CO2 pressure in the bottles, possibly above their breaking point. Only try this with plastic bottles. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A final option is using artificial sweeteners. Some artificial sweeteners are unfermentable, such as Stevia. You use the artificial sweetener for the sweet taste, and just enough real sugar to get carbonation (about 10 grams per liter). I have not tried this so can't tell you how it will taste. The yeast will ferment the real sugar, to make CO2, but will not ferment the stevia. You can use 1/4 as much yeast as given in the recipe when trying this method. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, putting the bottles in the fridge or storing in a cool cellar is the simplest option!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making soda, I would advise against using glass bottles at least for the first couple of times, since the co2 pressure can become very high, and can lead to exploding bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T13:52:14.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12672" CreationDate="2013-03-01T23:48:51.357" Score="1" ViewCount="10964" Body="&lt;p&gt;MillerCoors used to sell Coors Light Home Draft and Miller Light Home Draft &quot;kegs&quot; at my local grocery store, but I have not seem them in a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gSFJ4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MHD Photo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is because these units are very similar to the Tap-A-Draft, which is designed for local brewery take-home as well as for home brewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LrNVq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TAD Photo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find a way to get rid of the Miller or Coors beer, it's a much better deal to just buy the full one at the grocery store for $18, since a tap and empty bottle at the home brew store is $43 plus shipping.  But alas, they have disappeared from stores in Charlotte, NC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that in at least selected areas, distributors report the MillerCoors product has been discontinued.  But the product still shows on the Wal-Mart site, and shows on the MillerCoors &quot;Innovation&quot; page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone live near a store that still carries these?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2013-03-15T03:02:39.847" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T13:24:25.493" Title="Where are MillerCoors Light Home Draft units available?" Tags="|equipment|bottling|kegging|alternatives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9470" CreationDate="2013-03-01T23:57:17.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have aluminum HLT and BK and used a dremel to make a small mark at each gallon level. I marked with a china marker when the water was in there (adding one gallon at a time), and after I dried it out, I used the dremel.  I marked in 3 columns, 120 degrees apart, so I'd be able to see at least one measurement no matter which side I was standing on.  Also, I measured the distance between marks (a gallon is 17 tenths of an inch...my kettle has vertical walls,so it's the same for all marks).  I have a caliper that measures in tenths of an inch and it's easy to get accurte volume measurements by using the etched marks and the caliper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T23:57:17.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9392" CreationDate="2013-03-02T00:29:28.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Around North Carolina you can go to the grocery store and pick-up &quot;Primo&quot; drinking water in 3 gallon plastic jugs that are, for all intents and purposes, the same as a Better Bottle. I imagine there's a drinking water supplier like that &quot;everywhere&quot;.  The five gallon ones are $11 at Wal-Mart, so the three gallon ones must be around $9.  And the water in the jug is pretty close to reverse osmosis water (does have a few minerals added, see HomeBrewTalk search &quot;Primo&quot;), but can be used for your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fREGsOPSq9E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewing with Bottled Water Video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T00:29:28.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9482" CreationDate="2013-03-02T14:05:26.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Avoiding sediment floating around in the glass is often a function of carefully pouring from the bottle.  If bottled beer is allowed to sit and condition properly, given time the yeast and other solids in suspension will settle to the bottom and create a fairly tight sediment in the base of the bottle.  Upon opening a careful pour should leave much of it behind.  I just pour slowly and watch the beer coming out of the bottle  As soon as I see a little trail of sediment coming down the neck I stop pouring.  This does mean that to pour the clearest beer you are serving maybe only 10oz of a 12oz bottle...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allowing the beer to sit in primary a little longer than most texts recommend achieved the same thing as secondary.  Which is allows more stuff to settle to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, the less stuff you transfer from the fermentor (primary or secondary) into the bottling bucket obviously limits the stuff that will need to settle out in the bottle too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gelatin fining is a good idea to but it really works at its best if you can chill the whole fermentor down to near serving temps prior to adding the gelatin (or any fining agent for that matter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T14:05:26.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-03T13:09:10.667" Score="1" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will not stop the pints either way, but does beer really causes 'beer belly'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please provide links/research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-03-03T15:13:41.960" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T15:21:50.373" Title="Is beer belly a myth or fact?" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9497" CreationDate="2013-03-03T13:29:48.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer is an energy dense food, and if you take more energy in than your body metabolizes out you'll gain weight. If your body uses more energy than you take in, on the other hand, you'll lose weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen arguments made that there is something very particular about beer that causes me to develop fat around the midsection, but the science is usually relatively soft. The much simpler explanation is just: beer = calories, excess calories = weight gain. Because beer doesn't always feel like a hunger-bound food in the way that, say, a cheeseburger does, however, it's sometimes easier to pick up piles of unexpected calories from beer than other sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T13:29:48.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9497" CreationDate="2013-03-03T15:21:50.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's to do with hormones, and not specifically beer but the fact that it's high in carbohydrates. As the blood sugar increases, the body produces more insulin to push the blood sugar into the cells and thus decrease the overall blood sugar level. But elevated insulin levels in men cases testosterone to be converted into estrogens, which is the cause of the beer belly (and sometimes accompanying man-boobs.) Testosterone is also converted into DHT, which is linked with prostate cancer and hair loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://totalhealthmagazine.com/articles/obesity/belly-fat.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://totalhealthmagazine.com/articles/obesity/belly-fat.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T15:21:50.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9501" CreationDate="2013-03-03T16:04:00.140" Score="1" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make skeeter pee without the slurry from a previous batch. so I wanted to make a starter to make sure my yeast were happy guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took 3 pints of water to 1 teaspoon of yeast nutrients and about 6 teaspoons sugar. and a packet of ec-1118 yeast. I let that go for about 8-10 hours and it was happily bubbling the airlock. When I started the starter I had also put together the primary. The starter had an SG of about 1.09 and about 22% sugar. not too far off the 1.07 he recommends on the site. So that had been sitting for the same 8-10 hours. Before I went to bed, I degassed the primary for a few seconds, and then I added about a pint of primary to the starter and waited, within an hour it had bubbled up again through the airlock. and the yeast was churning and swimming around and doing its yeasty thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, this morning I woke up and in my excitement ran to see how my starter was doing. To my dismay, there was no activity in the bottle. Is this a stuck fermentation? I cant imagine the yeast ate all the sugar in there already. Not sure what my next step should be. Add more sugar and yeast energizer? Or wait another little bit?&#xA;Is there anything I did wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All help is greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the recipe I'm using: &lt;a href=&quot;http://skeeterpee.com/?page_id=17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://skeeterpee.com/?page_id=17&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;He says use the slurry from a previous batch of wine, I dont have this so it was recommended elsewhere to make a solid starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue is the acidity can make it hard for the yeast to get going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3202" LastEditorUserId="3202" LastEditDate="2013-03-03T16:24:58.710" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T16:37:09.313" Title="Yeast Starter Stopped after ~20 hours" Tags="|yeast|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9500" CreationDate="2013-03-03T16:13:45.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The starter may well have finished in the 18 or so hours you gave it, or it could be stuck. The way to find out is to take a gravity reading and see if it's close to your expected FG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: A gravity reading of 1.015 from 1.090 is 84% attenuation, which is good. I'd say you're done or close to done. There may be some small amount of sugars remaining, but remember the point of a starter isn't to ferment out, but to propagate yeast. Most of the propagation happens in the early stages - leaving it in for longer will not give significantly more yeast and viability will start decreasing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the starter now - it's ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-03-03T16:37:09.313" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T16:37:09.313" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9482" CreationDate="2013-03-03T16:31:41.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic problem you will have is that you need some yeast in suspension for bottle carbonation (if you don't have them, you need to add them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking to secondary will increase the clearness of you beer, while adding another chance for getting the beer infected. Generally all literature today recommends you not to rack to secondary unless you have to since the old problem of getting bad taste from the old yeast is not a problem with today's yeast strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So unless you are kegging, the clarity is a non-issue at bottling time. And regardless if you are bottling or force carbonating, if you let the beer sit a while, everything will settle. In a Keg, you might get a few glasses of yeast in the beginning, in a bottle, pour carefully and don't take any sediment if you don't like it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T16:31:41.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2013-03-03T18:55:19.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be careful of metal.  I once bought some ball bearings and used them to weight the hop bag.  When I removed them, the formerly shiny silver ball bearings were black and corroded, the beer had a powerful metallic taste and was ruined.  I now use a hop bag, and weight it with some lead sinkers that are vacuum sealed in plastic.  I once dry hopped pellets without a bag, and the filtration when racking to keg was a real PIA, so I always use a bag now&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3205" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T18:55:19.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9505" CreationDate="2013-03-03T20:47:16.113" Score="1" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I got a dual stage controller (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0057APR3I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057APR3I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&lt;/a&gt;) to hook up to a keezer that I am making. I got it wired up today and was testing it. All is well and it's working as expected except for one problem. The relay that is set to Cool won't allow me to set it below 50°F. What gives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the manual and manufacturers website and don't see any way to change this. I noticed that the &quot;Heat&quot; relay can go all the way down to 0°F which seems odd to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual says that this controller supports a temperature range of -40°F to 300°F so I'm hoping this isn't a bad unit or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, the relays switch on and off just fine, but I can't figure out how to get the cool side temperature to the correct level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T16:02:33.257" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T16:02:33.257" Title="Control Products 9102D Temperature Controller won't go below 50°F(10°C)?" Tags="|equipment|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9504" CreationDate="2013-03-04T00:56:40.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify, you say that you've got a Johnson controller but then you link to a Control Products unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be several things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, in the extended menu functions, what is your LSL1 and LSL2 value set at? These values represent the lower limit on controller function. Set these to 32ºF (0ºC) or wherever you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, make sure your OP1 is seat to &quot;heat&quot; and your OP2 is set to &quot;cool&quot;. (Or vice versa, depending on which relay is wired to which device.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, make sure your SP1 and SP2 are set to the same value, your target temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth, make sure that LOC is set to off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of those fix the problem, we might have to dig in further. It's unlikely that the device is actually broken, but it will be helpful if you go through your settings and list the value stored for each one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T00:56:40.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9508" CreationDate="2013-03-04T09:39:50.773" Score="4" ViewCount="1060" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm experimenting with 1 gallon batches, and every single time I had a blowoff. So for the batch I brewed today I just put a bucket of sanitized water and a blowoff tube to start with since I know that it'll blowoff while I'm at work otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe kit says to use half a pack of yeast, but even if I go below it I have Kräusen climbing out of the jug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any harm in this and having a blowoff tube for the first 24-30 hours? Is there any way to avoid blowoff completely without sacrificing the beer? (These 1 gallon batches are mainly for experimentation anyway, but they should still be good, drinkable beer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I could try to find 2 gallon jugs just so that I have plenty of headroom?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2028" LastEditorUserId="2028" LastEditDate="2013-03-04T09:45:22.113" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T20:20:19.277" Title="How to avoid blowoff on a 1 gallon jug?" Tags="|fermentation|krausen|blow-off|blow-off-tube|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9506" CreationDate="2013-03-04T12:57:49.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no harm on having the blow off tube. You could use it during the whole ferment If you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for avoiding it, the only ways are to use a bigger vessel as you said, or make less beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T12:57:49.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9506" CreationDate="2013-03-04T14:38:24.317" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You essentially have four options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) Use a blow off tube.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Advantage: Easy to do.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Disadvantage: You risk losing some beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) Find a bigger vessel.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Advantage: No beer lost.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Disadvantage: You need to find a bigger vessel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3) Use a foam suppressor like Fermcap.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Advantage: You'll lose less beer than with a blowoff.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Disadvantage: Some people don't like using chemical foam control for various reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4) Make less than one gallon&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Advantage: You'll be less likely to have blowoff.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Disadvantage: You'll have less beer anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of the options are fine. It's just a question of what is more convenient for you. The quantity of yeast you use should not generally have a significant impact on foam production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastEditorUserId="3109" LastEditDate="2013-03-04T20:20:19.277" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T20:20:19.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9510" CreationDate="2013-03-04T20:55:41.890" Score="8" ViewCount="771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing a series of smash beers all using the same yeast same temp same grain. I'm noticing a big variation in flocculation on the current batch (forgot the Irish moss oops) WLP001 by the way. Im assuming I'm going to get a bunch of &quot;DUH&quot; comments but I have always used the Irish moss to coagulate the trub in the kettle for clarity never thinking of it going on to the ferment and conditioning, anybody know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-08T16:02:25.997" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T16:02:25.997" Title="Does using a fining agent affect the flocculation of yeast?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|irish-moss|finings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9509" CreationDate="2013-03-04T21:40:14.487" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally when using irish moss, very little of it should end up in the fermentor. It's a good idea to let the boil settle for 10-15 minutes after flameout so that the moss and the proteins it's attracted have time to fall to the bottom of the kettle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even if it does make it to the fermentor, it won't have any significant affect on the yeast:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The irish moss will sink pretty quickly to the bottom of the fermentor, and won't affect the yeast in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Irish moss works in the kettle by electrostaticly attracting oppositely charged particles, in particular proteins, that are in the wort forming larger molecules that sink rapidly. Irish moss is negatively charged, and the proteins are positively charged, so they attract. Yeast are negatively charged, so there is no attraction - instead a slight repulsion, although this will have no practical affect.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Irish moss has no affect on yeast flocculation. If you were to use a different fining that is positively charged, such as Polyclar, then this would cause the yeast to flocculate and sediment quicker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you be sure it's yeast in suspension you're seeing and not protein haze? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.practicalbrewing.co.uk/main/fining/page4.html&quot;&gt;Fining&lt;/a&gt;, Practical Brewing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-03-04T23:17:52.527" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T23:17:52.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9512" CreationDate="2013-03-05T16:40:47.883" Score="3" ViewCount="2577" Body="&lt;p&gt;When brewing an IPA about a week ago, my starting gravity reading came out to be 1.12 - significantly higher than the listed target of 1.07 on the recipe. I had suspicions of error at the time which I believe was confirmed when I took a reading this weekend while transferring to secondary - the beer is now down to about 1.02, which seems like a large drop in just a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I believe happened - I noticed after taking the first sample that it contained some sediment that had failed to settle out. Being relatively new to this, I didn't think much of it at the time but now I imagine this contributed to an artificially high initial reading. Can anyone confirm this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there any way to estimate what the starting gravity may have actually been besides relying on what the recipe called for (I doctored the recipe a decent amount so I'm not confident in the printed target)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3171" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T14:22:32.090" Title="Hydrometer reading interference" Tags="|original-gravity|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9511" CreationDate="2013-03-05T17:10:59.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I'm not sure I realized it was 50 points we were talking about here, or just let my attention wander for a bit! Suspended solids can make a difference (see the comments), but you'd almost have to be measuring the SG of slurry for it to make that much of a difference! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the original recipe called for 2 cans of extract, and you used 3 then that's just under a 50% increase (the recipe also included grains.). 1.070 plus an extra 50% is 1.105, which puts you in the ball park for your reading of 1.120. Depending upon how much suspended sediment was in the jar, an additional 10-15 points is not improbable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: 1.12 is not the same as 1.120 - the additional 0 shows you have measured it to 1/1000 precision rather than 1/100 precision. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My original answer follows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's most likely the sediment that caused the high reading, if the hydrometer is otherwise calibrated and you have corrected for temperature. It's widely believed that the hydrometer is not affected by suspended sediment - but in fact it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hydrometer analysis begins after thoroughly mixing the sediment and&#xA;  water, after which particles settle out of the water column according&#xA;  to Stokes’s law. The density of a sediment-water suspension depends on&#xA;  the concentration and specific gravity of the sediments present in the&#xA;  mixture. If the suspension is allowed to stand, particles will settle&#xA;  out of the suspension and the density of the sediment-water suspension&#xA;  will decrease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this is discussing &lt;a href=&quot;http://publications.iodp.org/proceedings/308/205/205_4.htm&quot;&gt;drilling&lt;/a&gt;, the same principles apply. While the solids are in suspension, the density of the liquid/solid mixture is the average of the liquid and solid densities. When the solids fall out of suspension, then it's just the liquid density that is measured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not possible to determine what the original gravity was without knowing the average density of the sediment in the sample jar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just chalk this one up to experience - no real harm done. Next time leave the gravity sample to settle and also to settle to room temperature, so the hydrometer reading is accurate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-03-05T23:25:26.557" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T23:25:26.557" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9511" CreationDate="2013-03-05T17:14:12.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is absolutely no way to guess a recipe's OG without knowing the particulars of the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, suspended solids won't affect the reading by a significant margin unless they are actually bound to the hydrometer itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several things that could effect a hydro reading. Did you add top-off water before you took the reading. If so, there's a good chance the water wasn't mixed thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, 1.120 -&gt; 1.020 is not particularly unlikely. For your OG to be fifty points above target, however, is strange. How did you measure your volumes? If you ended up with a much smaller final batch size than the recipe planned for, this could also affect your OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastEditorUserId="3109" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T00:33:39.377" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T00:33:39.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9511" CreationDate="2013-03-05T17:33:44.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can enter your final recipe in an app like beersmith or hopville.com to get a general idea of your expected starting and final gravities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you brew from extract with a partial boil? If so, your starting gravity reading will most likely be inaccurate since the wort and top off water won't be completely mixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2982" LastEditorUserId="2982" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T14:22:32.090" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T14:22:32.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9476" CreationDate="2013-03-05T20:51:48.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW ... I used to make root beer from scratch, using either champagne or ale yeast for carbonation. SWMBO used to open the bale-top bottles with a bit too much of a flourish, and they would gush every time. I would open them very gently, very slowly, with no problem. So I had to train her to take it easy, because it seemed obvious to me that popping the bottle very suddenly would lead to a violent gushing reaction. Not sure if this is a factor with your gushers, but perhaps it's worth considering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, absolutely no innuendo is intended by this post. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3160" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T20:51:48.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-06T02:23:10.397" Score="1" ViewCount="3620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to piece together a Peanut Butter Chocolate Stout recipe and I torn between using powdered cocoa late in the boil or cocoa nibs in secondary. Any suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, with either suggestion, how much do you suggest using for a moderate amount of chocolate flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3209" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T15:17:38.393" Title="Peanut Butter Chocolate Stout- Cocoa or Nibs?" Tags="|recipe|stout|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9516" CreationDate="2013-03-06T06:22:06.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used 250g cocoa powder in 25L of Robust Porter a number of times (both at flameout and added after primary), and it comes out tasting very dark-chocolatey. I haven't used nibs before, so I can't give you a comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be very interested to hear how you plan to get the peanut butter flavour - I've considered making a similar beer, but have been put off by the problems associated with using actual peanut butter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T06:22:06.387" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9523" CreationDate="2013-03-06T10:32:44.187" Score="0" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everybody can buy a certain number of specilaty grains and combine them, but in a way it seems to me this way I will do something that someone else can do just replicating my grain choice. On the other hand mash process seems to be much more complex and with infinite variation in temperature values, time, with even more variability added by different processes (standard vs decoction for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much mash temperature and process can influence malty/sweet aroma of the final beer compared to specialty grains? (I am talking about light specialy grains, obviously there is a wide range of grains with aromas that can't be compared to those that mash develops). Which one of the two is the most powerful, or they can be equivalent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T23:46:59.220" Title="Mash process vs specialty grains" Tags="|mash|specialty-malt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9516" CreationDate="2013-03-06T15:17:38.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed this! I used this recipe which has a lot of great discussion. I used cocoa powder &amp;amp; peanut butter powder in the secondary, and added cocoa nibs a week later (sanitized by soaking in as little vodka as possible overnight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/chocolate-covered-beavr-nutz-362380/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/chocolate-covered-beavr-nutz-362380/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This recipe is amazing, I'll be making it again even without cocoa or peanut butter it is a great stout recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T15:17:38.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9518" CreationDate="2013-03-06T16:31:50.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are 2 different things.  Specialty grains will have a direct impact on the flavor of the beer, with a secondary impact on body and mouthfeel.  Mash time, temp, and process will have a primary impact on body and mouthfeel and secondarily on flavor.  But specialty grains and mash manipulation can have large effects on the beer that will overlap to some extant, but each also has it's own primary impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T16:31:50.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9470" CreationDate="2013-03-06T17:10:21.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;pour water in pot in increments of gallons or 1/2 gallon. use a yardstick to measure the open space then transfer to the outside and score with you`re or a borrowed Dremmel tool or a file  . Cheers  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3213" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T17:10:21.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9518" CreationDate="2013-03-06T18:28:12.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As has been stated already, you are talking about two completely different things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter13-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Brew chapter 13.1&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;there are basically two kinds of malts: those that need to be mashed and those that don't. ... Specialty malts like caramel and roasted malts do not need to be mashed. These malts have undergone a special kilning process in which the starches are converted to sugars by heat right inside the hull. As a result, these malts contain more complex sugars, some of which do not ferment, leaving a pleasant caramel-like sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as your question regarding which is most &quot;powerful&quot; I would ask what you mean by power. The specialty grains provide little to no &quot;power&quot; as far as fermentation is concerned. They add a depth and complexity to an extract brew that you will not have using extract only. They also will lend a bit of a fresh taste that you wont get otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T18:28:12.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9518" CreationDate="2013-03-06T23:46:59.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mash is certainly more flexible and gives the brewer the most freedom, while extracts+steeping grain is far more convenient and requires much less equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the mash, you can achieve a more malty beer simply by using more malt, or using a variety that has a strong maltiness to it. (I'm thinking Maris Otter, but also Munich malt) It would be hard to approximate this with speciality grains or extract, even extract made from MO/Munich malt, since the process of drying (DME) or concentrating (LME) the extract reduces the maltiness and fresh taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light speciality grains are not really malty, more sugary/caramel oriented, so we're not comparing like with like here. When you use speciality grains in the mash, they function just as if they were being steeped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, mashing is more flexible and can allow you to create very malty beers without them being excessively sweet. But not all styles require a sweet malty backbone, and when that's the case, then mashing vs using extract plus steeping grain produce more or less the same results. E.g. an IPA or a Porter can be brewed well without mashing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T23:46:59.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9527" CreationDate="2013-03-07T21:30:26.217" Score="3" ViewCount="924" Body="&lt;p&gt;took a gravity reading today at the end of the transfer from the kettle and there was quite a bit of trub in the cylinder, like the whole flip'n tube. so would the trub hold the hydrometer up and give a false reading? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T02:39:16.440" Title="Does trub effect your gravity reading?" Tags="|hydrometer|trub|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-08T01:45:16.703" Score="2" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of buying a March pump, but my kettle doesn't have a hole in which I could install a valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, obviously, I could drill a hole and install a valve. But before I do that, how easy is it to use a March pump without a putting a hole in my kettle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T02:06:28.393" Title="Using a March pump without a kettle valve" Tags="|pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9525" CreationDate="2013-03-08T02:00:34.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The march pumps, assuming you're talking about the usual 805/815 pump, produce about 5psi maximum. The hoses don't flail about uncontrollably at that pressure, so they can be used (with caution) with the out end unteathered. I'm also assuming you plan to fill the kettle using the pump, rather than drain it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first built my brewery, I used to simply drop the hose into the BK and pump the mash/sparge out from the MLT. This worked fine, especially since there was a fairly heavy quick disconnect weighing the hose down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you should try to find some way of fixing/clamping the hose to the kettle, or be cautious around the equipment. I forget how I did it, but I ended up getting the hose on the floor and losing some of the first runnings. After that, I installed an inlet valve on the BK just to be on the safe side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to drain the kettle, then keep in mind that draining a kettle without a valve with this pump will be tricky, since the pumps are not self priming - they can only push water, so the pump head has to be filled with liquid before it will pump (and running it dry can damage the pump.) If the hose is starting at bottom of the kettle and hung over the wall of the kettle and then connected to the pump, you have to find some way to start a siphon to pull the liquid up out of the kettle and down to the pump - the pump won't do this itself.  A valve placed at the base of the kettle will achieve this naturally, using gravity to feed the pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-03-08T02:06:28.393" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T02:06:28.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9524" CreationDate="2013-03-08T02:39:16.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the trub is actually physically holding the hydrometer up, preventing it from moving down, then unambiguously: yes, the trub will render your hydrometer reading useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, the trub is suspended in the liquid, it is a mixed bag. Suspended solids will impact a hydrometer reading, but for brewers it is usually very minimal. The only actual measurements I've seen have put the effect at well below even a single point of gravity (thousandths digit on SG scale), though it is conceivable that the effect is more significant in very trub-heavy samples. Still, it's hard to imagine that we'd see an effect of more than a couple of points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T02:39:16.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-08T08:44:57.867" Score="2" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see version of this question has been asked, so apologies for the repeat but its never quite answered in the way I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a batch last night and noticed half way through the process that lowering the boil size had seriously dropped my IBU's (40 vs 8). My pot size limits me to about 5L once the hops are in. Its a simple recipe using LME, DME, dextrose and fresh hops. The recipe didn't address when to add the sugars, only the hops so I had to wing it. I boiled 2/3 hops for 60 mins, added the LME at 40 mins into the boil, hops at 7 mins and the DME after flame out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading around I am still left with a couple of questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can hopes add bittering without sugar? I've made hop tea before using only water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is my IBU reduced to the same extent if I did not add LME until late in the boil?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a formula for figuring this out as I now have no idea what I just made. My only gauge is that the wort had a strong bitter aftertaste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jamie&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T09:29:57.987" Title="Boil size, ABU's and adding LME" Tags="|boil|extract|bitterness|lme|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-08T08:52:15.127" Score="5" ViewCount="5352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard the other day that using brass in your brewery set-up is a bad idea?! Well I have brass ball valves from the hardware store on all my kettles. I know that typical brass has lead in it but is this type of brass the same? Is it dangerous? If so, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:34:32.143" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:34:32.143" Title="Is using brass ball valves safe?" Tags="|equipment|kettle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9529" CreationDate="2013-03-08T08:57:35.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brass is fine as long as you clean it properly.  John Palmer details what that means in one of the appendices of How to Brew, which is available online here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The especially important part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The brass will turn a buttery yellow color as it is cleaned. If the solution starts to turn green and the brass darkens, then the parts have been soaking too long and the copper in the brass is beginning to dissolve, exposing more lead. The solution has become contaminated and the part should be re-cleaned in a fresh solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3035" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T08:57:35.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9528" CreationDate="2013-03-08T09:29:57.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops add bittering via &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isomerization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;isomerization&lt;/a&gt;.  When you add the hops to the boil, the alpha acids are extracted, and eventually isomerize and provide bitter flavors.  This happens with or without sugars.  Ray Daniels's book &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Designing Great Beers&lt;/a&gt; has lots of useful formulae and equations, including how to calculate IBU.  Basically it looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IBU = Woz * U% * A% * 7489 / Vgal / Cgrav&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where Woz is the weight of the hops in ounces, U% is the utilization as a decimal, A% is the alpha acids as a decimal, V gal is the volume of wort when you pitch the hops, and Cgrav is the correction for gravities over 1.050.  Utilization is a product of boil time, and you can find a chart for that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're doing a partial boil. The drastic reduction in IBU you're seeing is because the wort is more concentrated.  This means that the alpha acids have a harder time going into solution.  It also means that more of the acids get carried out with the break material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3035" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T09:29:57.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9529" CreationDate="2013-03-08T13:55:45.093" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of those things that you're going to have to decide for yourself because there is no simple consensus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Environmental lead is bad. There's no question about that. Increasingly, there's research to suggest that even low levels of lead are harmful (&lt;a href=&quot;http://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/?objectid=4F04B8EA-B187-9EF2-9F9413C68E76458E&quot;&gt;NIH Study&lt;/a&gt;). It's not just full-blown poisoning that you want to watch out for, but more subtle effects like hypertension and even gout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I don't feel comfortable with any amount of lead, and realistically it's not hard or expensive to replace the leaded-brass with stainless in this situation. Is one ball valve going to be the thing that kills you? Probably not, but brewing involves swings in both temperature and pH, both of which serve to degrade alloys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, ultimately, it's a judgment call that everyone makes differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T13:55:45.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9493" CreationDate="2013-03-08T15:26:06.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dallas, Texas; San Diego, California; Jacksonville, Florida; Phoenix, Arizona; Denver, Colorado and Columbus, Ohio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is their website on it: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coorslight.com/innovations/homedraft.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.coorslight.com/innovations/homedraft.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are currently only in test markets. You can find out more info on their Facebook page. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coors-Light-Home-Draft/120696661275064&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coors-Light-Home-Draft/120696661275064&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually found a Facebook app to locate them. &lt;a href=&quot;http://apps.facebook.com/homedraftlocator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://apps.facebook.com/homedraftlocator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3221" LastEditorUserId="3221" LastEditDate="2013-03-14T16:54:33.663" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T16:54:33.663" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9535" CreationDate="2013-03-08T19:33:02.760" Score="1" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;To sanitize bottles with diversol can I simply put the solution in a vinator, pump it into the bottle a couple of times and rinse? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does it require to soak in the bottles for 20 minutes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3123" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T20:08:07.460" Title="Contact time for sanitizing bottles with diversol" Tags="|sanitation|bottles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9534" CreationDate="2013-03-08T20:08:07.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find a definitive source from a manufacturer, but everything I'm seeing from third parties suggests you need a solid 20 minutes of contact. If you don't mind me asking, why use this sanitizer? It sounds like a lot of hassle (long contact time, corrosive of stainless, needs rinsing, contains bleach, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T20:08:07.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7607" CreationDate="2013-03-09T23:19:12.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After much trial and error with this PID, I worked out that to use the auto-tune you need to follow this procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) set to manual mode by setting run = 0 in the setup menu&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) adjust the duty cycle to some convenient value (say 50%) by pressing  then the up and down arrows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) allow the system you're controlling to reach thermal equilibrium then adjust the set-point temperature to the equilibrium temperature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) now set to auto-adjust mode by setting CtrL=2 in the setup menu, then allow the PID to auto-tune (this could take a few minutes, during which time the display will flash &quot;At&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3225" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T23:19:12.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9538" CreationDate="2013-03-11T01:26:18.263" Score="2" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a propane burner, is one of the following methods quicker / more efficient than the other? If so why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) Heat 2.82 gallons of water from 70 degrees to boiling and then add 1.12 gallons of 70 degree water to get 4 gallons of 170 degree water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) Heat 4 gallons of water from 70 degrees to 170 degrees directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T02:01:27.667" Title="What is the quickest way to heat mash / sparge water?" Tags="|mash|propane-burner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9537" CreationDate="2013-03-11T01:54:35.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your additional 1.12 gallons of 70F water can be considered free of heating time and cost, then we just need to compare the different quantities of water being heated and the temperature they are raised through:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.82 gallons from 70F to 212F = 2.82 * (212-70) = &lt;strong&gt;400.44&lt;/strong&gt; galF&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 gallons from 70F to 170F = 4 * (170-100) = &lt;strong&gt;400&lt;/strong&gt; galF&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm using non-standard units - each unit is the amount of energy requried to raise a gallon one degree F.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of the energy required to heat the water, they are both equivalent requiring 400 units of energy, so they are in principle equal in efficiency and in time taken. Now, I would say that the second approach, heating 4 gallons to 170 is more efficient:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the 1.12 gallons you used in the first example, probably isn't free, adding to the energy needed by the first approach.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;higher water temperatures have higher thermal losses, since there is a larger difference between the water temperature and the environment. Hence, the boiling water will loose more heat each second than the 170F water, requiring more energy, and more time if the same sized flame is used as when heating 4 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one counter-argument that favors the first approach on a practical level in terms of time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you don't have temperature control on the propane burner, then you may end up reducing the flame to avoid overshooting the 170F target. When heating to boiling, you can turn the burner all the way up and still not overshoot. You will then probably use more energy, since bigger flames are usually less efficient, but it will heat quicker. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, with the same-sized flame, the 2nd approach, heating all 4 gallons, is the most energy efficient and quickest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-03-11T02:01:27.667" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T02:01:27.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9540" CreationDate="2013-03-11T12:55:39.067" Score="4" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to estimate final alcohol value from the orginal gravity of the wort? Is apparent attenutaion involved in the estimation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess if I know OG and FG &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7924/can-i-find-the-abv-of-cider-using-original-and-final-gravity&quot;&gt;this is the answer&lt;/a&gt;. What if FG is not know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T13:32:41.790" Title="Estimating final alcohol by Original Gravity" Tags="|measurements|alcohol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9539" CreationDate="2013-03-11T13:32:41.790" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alcohol is the product of anaerobic respiration, the consumption of sugars by yeast. If you had access to a chemistry lab, you could measure the alcohol directly, but most calculate their alcohol by calculating the quantity of sugar that has been consumed. For the most part, this is done by comparing the OG to the FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, the OG by itself will not tell you how much alcohol there is. You need to either measure or estimate the FG. If measuring is not an option, you can use your expected attenuation to estimate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG = (OG - 1.000) * (apparent attenuation) + 1.000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there, you can use any of the ABV estimation formulas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T13:32:41.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2013-03-11T16:05:30.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can break down sucrose into fructose and glucose by boiling with a little water and citric acid. Sucrose is a disacchride that's made from the two monosaccharides fructose and glucose bonded together. Boiling with water and citric acid helps break the molecular bonds between these 2 simpler sugars, so sucrose brecomes a form of brewing sugar or invert sugar that's amber in colour. One question is, if you invert or break down sucrose or table sugar, will it have additional flavours or disadvantages in comparison to white brewing sugar or dextrose/glucose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3231" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T14:42:14.340" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T14:42:14.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-11T18:27:56.370" Score="0" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the difference between &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.installationpartssupply.com/mm5/images/corny_keg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ball-lock and pin-lock&lt;/a&gt; kegs. My question arises in the fact my kegerator is set up for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/attachments/f35/33721d1316205730-using-commercial-keg-forumrunner_20110916_154202.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;commercial&lt;/a&gt; keg and I need to convert it to fit my ball-lock keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beveragefactory.com/refrigerators/beer/danbyssteel-2.shtml?CAWELAID=1372131131&amp;amp;catargetid=1553582855&amp;amp;cagpspn=pla&amp;amp;gclid=COWnn-Lv9bUCFQ7znAodTnYA5Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This is the Kegerator I have&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the dimensions of the tubing/barbs/anything else I might need to hook up a standard CO2 tank to the ball-lock keg, then to a single tap draft tower? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*note - I do have the ball-lock connectors (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cornykeg.com/autoThumb.asp?path=D%3a%5CWeb_Resorces%5Cproduct_images%5Ccatalog19985%5Cgray_ball_lock_connector.gif&amp;amp;iThumbSize=175&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;liquid out&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.annapolishomebrew.com/content/images/thumbs/0002514_ball_lock_connector_in_w_mfl.jpeg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CO2 in&lt;/a&gt;)for the top of the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastEditorUserId="2947" LastEditDate="2013-03-12T00:08:14.547" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T04:07:32.820" Title="Kegerator Parts for Ball-lock kegs" Tags="|corny-keg|kegerator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9542" CreationDate="2013-03-12T01:54:40.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it should be fairly simple to adapt to corny kegs (in fact there is a picture of the fridge filled with corny kegs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have QDs for the kegs, so you have the connectors needed on the keg side. You also need hoses and connectors to connect the keg to the tower and to CO2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to beer in on the tower: push 6-10' of 3/16&quot; beer line over the barbed beer out QD on the keg and clamp with a hose clamp. To connect the hose to the tower, use beer line connectors, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0002EAJXW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;.  (You probably already have these on your existing beer out line.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g2q0D.png&quot; alt=&quot;beer line connectors&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CO2 from the tank. You connect the keg to the tank with 1/4&quot; or 5/16&quot; gas hose slipped over the gray gas QD and clamped. The regulator output is also barbed so you do the same with that - slip over the hose and clamp down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have already the parts for the sanke (commercial) keg, but have no plans to use them, then you already have all the parts you need. You can then just cut off the keg coupler at the hose, and fix this to your beer QD, and do the same for the gas line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-03-12T04:07:32.820" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T04:07:32.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-13T09:08:42.153" Score="1" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to find a leak proof glass bottle for some liquid, which I would later put into the refrigerator. And because I tend to put it horizontally, I would prefer to use a leak proof bottle which is cheap and easy to get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I considered the glass bottle for some juice in store but I do not trust the simple metal screw lid. I don't trust cork too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know ikea has the slom bottle but they only come in 1L size, it would be too large. Any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3237" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T05:55:05.477" Title="Suitable small bottle for liquid" Tags="|bottle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-13T10:58:18.220" Score="2" ViewCount="3130" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first batch so I'm wondering if I am worrying over nothing or if I need to take action.  I brewed an all extract IPA kit from Williams Brewing.  I feel I was very careful with sanitation and pitched a liquid yeast pack just below 80 degrees.  I used an ice bath and was able to get the wort to that temp in just shy of an hour.  I am using a bucket and it appears that all the seals are good.  I did start the yeast packet and let it swell, but I did not have time to brew until close to three days after the pack was fully swollen.  I am getting very tiny bubbles in my airlock, but nothing that appears to really be moving and definitely not &quot;vigorous&quot; fermentation.  Do I need to pitch more yeast or should I wait it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3238" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T18:48:09.317" Title="Fermentation - only very small bubbles after 36 hours" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9545" CreationDate="2013-03-13T11:31:30.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you have anything to worry about yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can see inside your bucket or carboy (without opening) you can see if the krausen has formed yet, and how thick it is. The krausen looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EsnBi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it starts, it will just be a faint ring, then the entire surface is covered, and then it gets thicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only when krausen has formed is fermentation really underway at it's most vigorous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quantities liquid yeast provided by the major manufacturers results in a slight underpitching, so there can be some lag time there. Also, 64F is on the cooler side, so things will proceed at a more moderate pace. (You'll also get cleaner tasting beer.)&#xA;With all that considered, 36 hours is still quite early. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wait it out - I'm sure you'll see it pick up in a day or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T11:31:30.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9544" CreationDate="2013-03-13T11:32:51.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered using a plastic screw like the ones that come in soft drink bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any reason for not trusting the metallic ones? Fear of leaking or corrosion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T11:32:51.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9545" CreationDate="2013-03-13T16:47:07.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome new brewer, you have asked every first time brewers favorite question. I would say just relax, you probably did nothing wrong, airlock bubbles are not a good sign of fermentation. But worrying during your first brew is part of the experience. If you don't have a hydrometer yet get one and measure the gravity is about a week. Google a bit for your brew's expected Final Gravity reading and see if you are coming close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T16:47:07.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9544" CreationDate="2013-03-13T16:50:43.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Googling gave me this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000NWYUW4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Small-Bottle-Convenient-Square-Leakproof/dp/B000NWYUW4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its nice and square so its all stacky and such. Seems nice for a fridge. Not sure if you find it cheap or not however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T16:50:43.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9545" CreationDate="2013-03-13T18:48:09.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the fact that your yeast packet was activated and then left for 3 days, it's likely the yeast just went dormant again after consuming the nutrients in the packet (which caused all that swelling), which would account for a lag time in fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/faqs.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;wyeast's FAQs&quot;&gt;Wyeast's FAQs&lt;/a&gt; address a similar possible issue - pitching a yeast packet without activating it. Their answer is that the yeast is still perfectly viable, but to expect a possible lag time in fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, just be patient and have faith.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3171" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T18:48:09.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9551" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-14T05:24:32.370" Score="1" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottled my second batch of beer, a nut brown ale recipe from northern brewer. I added coffee to the secondary, and my first bottle I had after 2 weeks bottle conditioning tasted like a nice coffee nut brown, though slightly under-carbonated. Now at three weeks the carbonation is good, but the flavor is inconsistent between bottles. They all conditioned together in a failry dark corner of my bedroom. the temp varied slightly, but all the bottles would have been affected by this. Every long-neck bottle I have had now (3 or 4 total) have tasted great! My shorter bottles (Anchor and Sierra Nevada pale ale bottles) though are really inconsistent. one has been good, but the other two I've tried have had very little coffee or nut flavor and a metallic, chemical-like taste to them. Anyone have any ideas what could be causing these inconsistencies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3241" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T05:50:14.803" Title="Inconsistent flavor between my bottles" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|off-flavor|bottle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9551" CreationDate="2013-03-14T05:50:14.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The metallic/chemical taste to me suggests contamination at the bottle level.  Maybe some of these were insufficiently cleaned or sterilized.  The wrong microbes could also impact the flavor by breaking down the flavors you want into ones you don't.  Is there any possibility you put more care into cleaning the longer bottles (as they would be possibly more difficult to clean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T05:50:14.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9544" CreationDate="2013-03-14T10:11:13.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used this company, but they seem to have every conceivable bottle ever imagined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.containerandpackaging.com/catalog/glass-bottles/13/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.containerandpackaging.com/catalog/glass-bottles/13/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming that you are in USA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are from South Africa, then go to www.consol.co.za.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T10:11:13.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9555" CreationDate="2013-03-14T10:14:35.147" Score="4" ViewCount="2150" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I live (France) I can't easily find hops rizhomes, but I can find seeds, so my two questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any shop in France/Europ from which I can buy hops rizhomes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I grow hops from seeds how do I identify female plants?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T17:19:15.767" Title="Growing hops from seeds" Tags="|hops|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9554" CreationDate="2013-03-14T12:30:17.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops are normally grown from rhizomes to ensure you're getting the right strain - hop seeds will often be a cross-breed and may have unpredictable flavour or alpha acid characteristics. Differences between male &amp;amp; female plants are most noticeable once they flower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about suppliers in Europe, but you can generally find hop rhizomes even in places where there are restrictive quarantine rules. Check online trading sites like ebay first, otherwise commercial hop growers will often have excess rhizomes available if you contact them directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1395" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T12:30:17.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9470" CreationDate="2013-03-14T12:36:47.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A brewing friend of mine uses an old broken wooden broom handle. I'm not a big fan of that, as the wood can't be clean or sanitized all that easy. However, when he put's it in water or wort, the liquid makes a very clear distinct line on the wood and stays there for a 5 minutes or so, it is very easily to take a reading. He has the stick marked for two different brew kettles and boiled it in water for a while before he started using it. &#xA;He never uses it after the boil for obviousness reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T12:36:47.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9554" CreationDate="2013-03-14T12:42:25.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Germany: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eickelmann.de/Hopfen-Shop/&quot;&gt;Eickelmann&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In UK: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopshop.co.uk/&quot;&gt;Hopshop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3127" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T12:42:25.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9559" CreationDate="2013-03-14T13:30:52.090" Score="3" ViewCount="1050" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to start a brew using a 'Simply Ginger Beer' kit. I've heard that it's sweet, and light which is what I want, but it's not very gingery. Would it be ok to add some grated and boiled fresh ginger at the point the batch is first made up? Or would it be better to add it after a week or so? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next obvious question is: What would be a good starting quantity? I'm not sure if we're talking 50g or 500g! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other info:&#xA;I'm fermenting it in a 5 gallon glass carboy. &#xA;Will be using 1kg brew enhancer.&#xA;Will be using the included yeast/sweetener sachet.&#xA;I plan to bottle it in flip-tops at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to this, I've only done 4 or 5 kit brews with varying degrees of success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &#xA;Ben&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T14:12:05.897" Title="Considering adding Fresh Ginger to a 'Simply Ginger Beer' kit" Tags="|kits|ginger|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9558" CreationDate="2013-03-14T14:12:05.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No hands on experience on this kind of brew, but a few thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a few options, add the ginger to the boil, to the primary fermenter or to the secondary fermenter (or if you don't have/use another fermenter, to the primary after the active fermentation is done).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each will most likely give different results, I would guess adding it to the boil may result in more extraction when compared to the fermentor additions (depending on how long you leave it there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you add it to the primary fermentor you may loose some of the ginger aroma, in a similar way to what happens to hop aromas (the CO2 leaving the beer takes the aroma with it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the secondary the amount of CO2 emissions is greatly diminished, but the ginger will be in contact with the beer for less time, possibly giving out less flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the amounts, unless you have experienced with it before it is impossible to know, your kit probably have some flavor already so you could probably overdo it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A suggestion: Boil some amount of ginger to your taste in something like a liter of water, then extrapolate it to your 5 gallons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you like it with 30 gr of ginger in a liter of water. Multiply it by 20 and you get 600gr.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T14:12:05.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7607" CreationDate="2013-03-14T20:02:51.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following below helped me to figure out the function of the 'P' component:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;P&quot; term is provided in 0.01 s/C (0.01 seconds per degree Celsius).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume the temperature is off by -1.0 degree Celsius of the setpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The value of the &quot;P&quot; term is set to e.g. 3000, and the &quot;Ctl&quot; term is set to 120, then the heater will come on 30 seconds out of the 120 set for the &quot;Ctl&quot; value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that difficult is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3242" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T20:02:51.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9563" CreationDate="2013-03-15T14:33:13.930" Score="3" ViewCount="1020" Body="&lt;p&gt;Planning to start to use liquid yeasts and will need to do some starters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is hard to get hold of DME over here (I can get some hopped LME, though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking on doing a starter from grains, do I need to do a full 60 min boil for the starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory all the sugars the yeast will need are already on the wort when I finish mashing so a short boil (or even pasteurization) just to cripple the competition would be enough? Or do I need to care about DMS, proteins and such for the starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T14:49:27.943" Title="Making a starter without DME?" Tags="|yeast|boil|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9564" CreationDate="2013-03-15T14:34:06.030" Score="3" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading (or tasting) it is easy to find dozens of different styles, going a litte more in details than lager/ale distinction, what is a simple categorization of beer styles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T16:16:07.560" Title="How can beer styles be classified?" Tags="|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9561" CreationDate="2013-03-15T14:49:27.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, a mash and short boil will be fine. I sometimes add enough grain to account for an extra gallon or so on a regular-sized all-grain batch, then pressure-can or freeze the resulting wort for starters in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T14:49:27.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9562" CreationDate="2013-03-15T16:16:07.560" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like fire.eagle said, I think the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/stylecenter.php&quot;&gt;BJCP style guideline&lt;/a&gt; is what you are looking for. This is what nearly all home brew competitions use when judging beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greatamericanbeerfestival.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/12_GABF_Style_Descriptions.pdf&quot;&gt;Great American Beer Festival's style guidelines&lt;/a&gt;. They break beers out into more categories than the BJCP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1062" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T16:16:07.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6566" CreationDate="2013-03-16T03:44:02.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sima is a traditional Finnish drink that is basically hard lemonade...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a large non-reactive pot (stainless steel or ceramic coated, NOT aluminum), boil 3 liters (+ 1 cup to allow for evaporation, spillage ect.) of water with 2-3 cups white sugar, brown sugar, honey or any combo thereof (more sugar = more alcohol). When dissolved, add 2-4 thinly sliced lemons (some folks carefully peel and add the zest, cut away and discard the pith and add remaining pulp. too much pith can cause bitterness). Let simmer covered 15-30 minutes to allow peels to release lemon oil. Pulp should be partly disintegrated, releasing lemon juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cool to room temp. (75°f/25°c). Placing pot in a sinkful of cool water will speed the process. While cooling, fill a small jar or glass half way with room temp. tap water. Sprinkle enough yeast to cover water surface (baking yeast for traditional low alcohol [1-5%] method, champagne or wine yeast for high alcohol [8-18%]). Do not stir or shake... wait 10 min. or until all the yeasties have become moist and sunk to the bottom. Now add a &lt;em&gt;small&lt;/em&gt; amount ( &amp;lt;1/2 tsp., just enough to wake them up) of sugar and stir. Let sit undisturbed until a foamy layer forms on top. When the yeast is going strong, add it to the lemonade. If after 1 hour or so, you don't see any sign of fermentation (ie; foamy layer) you may want to add baking soda (1/2 tsp. at a time) to de-acidify and repeat yeast step. Once fermentation has begun, cover and let sit for 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it's time to bottle. You'll need bottles, a narrow tipped funnel, a small pitcher (easier to handle than large pot) and optionally, a small screen type strainer (Note: I like to strain mine to remove pulp and seeds but you don't have to. If you do use a strainer be sure the openings are big enough to let the yeasties pass through while catching the larger bits. Use wire screen type not plastic mesh type) I use 4 750 ml. screw top Torani bottles per batch. 2 liter soda bottles work as well, in which case you should make a 4 liter batch (adjust ingredients accordingly). IMPORTANT... be sure your bottles are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; clean, contamination can cause off flavors or even make you ill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stir lemonade vigorously to get yeast evenly mixed in solution and pour into a pitcher. Place funnel in mouth of bottle and strainer in funnel. Fill bottle leaving a 2 inch air space at the top. (Note: The traditional method calls for adding 2-3 raisins to the bottle. Some claim this provides micro-nutrients that the yeast needs. I have found no difference with or without them and they only serve to clog up my straw when I drink it.) Repeat til all bottles are filled. Place the caps on slightly loose to allow the CO2 gas to escape. Store at cool to room temp. for anywhere from 2 days for kid friendly, very low alcohol [&amp;lt;1%] version to a month for the high alcohol, adults only version. Tighten caps 24-48 hours before serving (less if fermentation is still vigorous) to allow CO2 to make the drink fizzy. Serve cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3246" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T03:44:02.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-16T09:46:11.630" Score="1" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing two Coopers kits at the moment - a Pilsner and an India Pale Ale. Both have a generic leaflet which suggests I should leave 6 days at 21 degrees for fermentation (which seems quite short) or measure the SG as consistent over 2 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now on day 12. The Pils SG is consistent but there are still bubbles rising. &#xA;The IPA has dropped from 1.008/7 to 1.006 in the last two days and also has bubbles. I've only just started taking SG readings for brews - up to now I always went on the more amateur &quot;are there still bubbles rising&quot; method of detection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My temperature has probably been a little low. I keep the fermenters in my hot press in the house, but it's been unseasonably cold the last week. When I check the temp it's usually about 19/20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to bottle too early as I'm afraid of exploding bottles. Are my brews ready?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2281" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T12:21:08.400" Title="My brew is taking far longer than the leaflet suggests" Tags="|original-gravity|ipa|pilsner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9566" CreationDate="2013-03-16T10:31:37.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't give the instructions too much thought, most kits suggest the same fermentation period and in my experience they are always wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you dont need to worry about temperatures down to 17c - in fact lager yeast likes it cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always leave 2 weeks for primary fermentation, then transfer to a secondary fermenter for a further 2 weeks. At that point it goes into bottles and is left for another 4 weeks before the first bottle is opened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This always works for me and the beer is always fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it is interesting to measure, dont worry about the SG. You risk contamination every time you take a sample, and the beer can take care of itself&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3247" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T10:31:37.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9566" CreationDate="2013-03-16T12:21:08.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say its taking &quot;Far Longer.&quot; how long have you been fermenting? What is the gravity of the pils? if your IPA gravity is 1008/1007 over the last two days I would say your pretty near finished. Assuming your IPA was in the 1050s/1060's when you started; you got great attenuation, I would check gravity again tomorrow and if your getting the same range go ahead and bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T12:21:08.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9570" CreationDate="2013-03-16T16:23:11.320" Score="1" ViewCount="5009" Body="&lt;p&gt;My last batch had a thin whitish 'membrane' on top of it and some white spots, visible on the picture bellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I saw something similar on a blog a while ago, attributed to a lactobacilus infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taste was not too bad, but the smell was a bit strange, I went ahead and bottled 3 days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is that? Should I be prepared for bottle bombs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/35cGE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lactobacilus?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T09:25:16.470" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T09:25:16.470" Title="Is this lactobacillus?" Tags="|contamination|bacteria|lactobacillus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9569" CreationDate="2013-03-16T17:52:11.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit tricky to tell, but it could be early stages of a lactobacillus or pediococcus contamination. The flaky white patches are typical of lactobacillus, while short segments of ropes you see are typical of pediococcus, although I would swing towards lactobacillus on this one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lactobacillus contamination:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tj1J0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lactobacillus contamination&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pediococcus contamination:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fmam4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pediococcus contamination&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, it's clearly a contamination of some kind, so best to be safe with the bottling and &lt;strong&gt;bottle with plastic soda bottles&lt;/strong&gt;. Stored cold, any decrease in SG will take several months, and not all strains produce CO2 -  but I never take chances with glass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-03-16T22:21:47.117" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T22:21:47.117" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-16T22:29:52.533" Score="3" ViewCount="3135" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've brewed between 6-10 batches of beer at home using partial boil methods but have never managed to get accurate gravity readings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I have is that my readings somehow always seem to be way higher than most  gravity-abv charts ive seen allow for, even when i try and account for temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, today I brewed something akin to a DIPA which used 9 lbs of liquid malt (6 pilsner, 3 amber) in a 5 gallon batch. After adding a hops, chilling and adding water to get to the desired 5 gallons, I extracted some and got an OG reading of 1.12 which puts me in the running for maybe a 15% abv beer, which seems hard for me to believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a reasonable number considering how much malt I used? Something I have noticed is that in my OG readings theres always a very large amount of sediment since I usually extract the liquid soon after everything is in my fermentation chamber. Could this sediment be affecting my readings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as a small aside, i've been trying to use a wine thief to get readings and it always seems to get clogged due to high amounts of sediment in the fermentor. Is there a way around this aside from getting something akin to a turkey baster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3226" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T00:43:39.897" Title="Ensuring an accurate gravity reading" Tags="|specific-gravity|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9571" CreationDate="2013-03-17T00:34:20.573" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's some tips on getting an accurate hydrometer reading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;check the hydrometer is calibrated, by checking that water reads 1.000 at the calibration temperature (either typically 65F or 20C). I've tried both distilled water and tap water and by both read the same.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;when taking a sample from a extract-based brew, particularly partial boil where top up water has been added, ensure the wort is mixed thoroughly, or the wort will be stratified with high density extract at the bottom and lower density water towards the top.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;take the gravity sample from the middle to top of the fermentor. This helps avoid taking up any sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if any sediment does make it into the sample, wait for it to settle out before taking a reading&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;wait for the sample to reach calibration temperature. Although charts can be used to correct for different temperatures, they are only approximate - SG change over temperature depends upon the specific content of the wort. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;when taking the reading, ensure that the hydrometer does not touch the sides of the test cylinder, and read with eye level at the liquid level. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;it's also a good idea to spin the hydrometer to release any tiny air bubbles that may be trapped underneath&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, it does sound like a mixing problem. 9lbs of extract in 5 gallons should come out at 1.065. Assuming you've checked your hydrometer for accuracy, then I think it's to do with mixing. It's best to put the lid on, and shake the carboy to get oxygen into the beer. This will also homogenize the wort so that there are no high or low density parts, and your gravity sample will be more truthful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T00:34:20.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9571" CreationDate="2013-03-17T00:43:39.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;An OG reading of 1.12 seems about double what you would expect for that grain bill, and gravity is only really affected by dissolved solids. Obviously the first thing you should do is check your hydrometer to make sure it is accurate, that is almost certainly the cause of the error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In water the specific gravity should read 1.00 since specific gravity is just the relative density of some substance compared to the density of water. If your hydrometer is significantly different from 1.00 it is probably poorly calibrated. Another easy one to check is milk, it should have a specific gravity of around 1.035 (but obviously this can vary greatly, it is only a rough estimate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want another accurate reference point, you can mix, by weight, 10% sugar with 90% water and you should get a specific gravity of 1.04 (e.g. 10 grams of sugar with 90 grams of water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the thief issue, you should be able to steal some wort without stirring up too much sediment. Due to it's design, you don't need to touch the bottom with it to get it to fill, so as long as you are careful while opening the bucket and don't stir the bottom you shouldn't get too much sediment. One trick if the thief isn't immediately filling is to shake it up and down a little while submerged and that should get the stopper to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T00:43:39.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9575" CreationDate="2013-03-17T11:47:07.173" Score="1" ViewCount="1215" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first home brew batch has been in the primary fermentation for one week and the gravity reading has dropped from 1055 to 1008. Is it going down too quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 kg pale ale malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0,5 kg crystal malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100 g cascade hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US-05 yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of wort after boiling was 16 litres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3250" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T15:30:43.430" Title="Low gravity reading after one week" Tags="|fermentation|troubleshooting|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9574" CreationDate="2013-03-17T15:30:43.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, you're looking good. Normal, healthy fermentation for most beers completes in about 3-10 days, depending on the yeast and beer in question. Is the first gravity reading you've taken? Wait a couple of days and take another. If it hasn't changed, then fermentation is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point your beer has achieved 85% attenuation, which is a little on the high side to my mind but I've never worked with US-05 before. A quick search of the Internet shows that 85% may be in the normal range for this yeast. Your beer may be a bit on the dry side. If the beer tastes good, then no worries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T15:30:43.430" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-18T08:25:30.193" Score="1" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a special way of sealing PET bottles?&#xA;This is the first time I have used these bottles so I just screwed the cap on by hand until I thought it was tight. I have had 8 flat bottles so far and was wondering if there is a special way or tool to put the cap on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to keep using PET bottles but need help sealing them, as I don't want 8 flat bottles every brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers, Bill  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-03-19T04:30:41.767" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T04:30:41.767" Title="first time using pet bottles and have 8 flat" Tags="|bottling|bottles|airtight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9576" CreationDate="2013-03-18T09:25:01.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;None that I know of, perhaps someone will have more insight on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A question: Are you re-using soda bottles? If the caps are in good condition they should work fine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a tip: you can still carbonate the flat beers by adding some extra sugar to it, closing and placing in a warmer place (I assume you chilled them). The yeast should still kick back into life to carbonate it. Don't need to waste them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T09:25:01.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9580" CreationDate="2013-03-18T12:35:15.320" Score="3" ViewCount="1977" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend got Paracetic Acid from his LHM store (they only had that and alcohol 70 there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a non-rinse sanitizer? How good is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia says it corrodes metals, so no go for the crown caps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it have any other applications (thinking cleaner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else he should know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T09:33:20.020" Title="Peracetic acid as a sanitizer?" Tags="|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9579" CreationDate="2013-03-18T13:29:15.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's nasty stuff. Handle with gloves! Paracetic Acid comes in several concentrations if you have the 5% Paracetic Acid solution then you should shoot for 1% of the solution in your volume of water. So 1L would need 10ml of parasafe and then scale up or down from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly I'd skip it, and make your own sanitizer. In a pinch where I'm out of starsan I use 1oz bleach and 1oz vinegar in 5 gal water. Make sure the vinegar is fully mixed before the bleach is added. Give it a couple minutes contact time but is considered no rinse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution was actually proposed in a podcast by the maker of StarSan, Relevant links: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Homemade_No_Rinse_Sanitizer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Homemade_No_Rinse_Sanitizer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-03-18T23:52:10.043" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T23:52:10.043" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2013-03-18T17:11:53.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtoad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewtoad.com/&lt;/a&gt; is an online recipe database with them fancy web 2.0 thingys&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3255" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T17:11:53.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9554" CreationDate="2013-03-18T17:19:15.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You also need to be careful that you are not planting any male hops, which could potentially be cross pollinated with other hop plants in the area.  Here in the US they only sell female rhizomes to ensure that they are the only type out growing.  Male hop plants are tightly controlled.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3255" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T17:19:15.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9482" CreationDate="2013-03-18T17:26:58.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The addition of irish moss in the boiling process helps act as a clarifying agent.  1/2 tsp in the last 10 minutes of the boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3255" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T17:26:58.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9585" CreationDate="2013-03-19T00:57:01.923" Score="3" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was all ready to bottle up my IPA last night (and yes, since this is StackExchange, I named the brew &quot;IPAddress&quot;). Everything got sanitized, bottles were de-labeled, the whole nine yards. I boil the priming sugar, pour it in, give it a stir, and it's looking lovely. I grab the first bottle, a cap, and....and where's the capper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spent the majority of last night turning my apartment over, looking for the dang thing. No dice - my best guess is I left it behind at my former apartment in a drawer. I re-airlocked the brew, having exhausted my options, and am going to purchase a new capper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, what are the effects on the finished beer going to be? Introducing more sugar is going to introduce more alcohol, and I have to wait until the yeast has chewed through everything I just introduced to it before attempting to prime it again. Am I freaking out unnecessarily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help, and happy brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3256" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T02:09:04.147" Title="Forgot bottle capper - priming interrupted" Tags="|priming|capping|problems|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9584" CreationDate="2013-03-19T02:09:04.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No need to worry! The priming sugar will up the alcohol content by a marginal amount but you probably won't notice. It is definitely a good idea to let the yeast take care of the extra priming sugar, although this shouldn't take too long, I'd say wait a couple days and then re-prime and bottle. Priming sugar is a pretty simple sugar so it should ferment quickly (also you don't add too much of it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be careful, going through the bottling preparation process twice increases your chances of introducing an infection to your brew, but as long as you are mindful you should be fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T02:09:04.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7607" CreationDate="2013-03-19T03:30:41.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for that number example.  However, I'm getting frusttrated with my controller and I had PID in my studies!  If I set t=0 and P50=0 I should end up with a P-controller, rigth.  But ever with P=1, I get 100% output for 10deg difference and Ctr=10.  Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3257" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T03:30:41.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9588" CreationDate="2013-03-19T11:52:24.900" Score="3" ViewCount="3709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.simplybeerkits.co.uk/beerkits.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ginger Beer kit&lt;/a&gt; on the go. It's sitting in the kitchen and ambient temps are ranging from 15 to 20ºC (59-68ºF). The beer was started 3.5 days ago and I was away for the weekend, I can see that Krausen did form up to about 5cm, but it's died back now. The beer has plenty of little bubbles rising, and my blowoff tube is bubbling about once a second during the day, and once every 5 or so seconds at night. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So.. it looks like I have a slow fermentation going on. I'm in no rush, but my question really is: are there any negative side-effects to brewing slowly at low temps like this? In the past I've brewed (accidentally) at 30ºC and the beer was horridly bitter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other info: &#xA;The kit was used with 1kg Munton's Beer kit Enhancer.&#xA;100g of Fresh Ginger was boiled and added to the fermenter at the start.&#xA;The included yeast was used, I have no idea what type/spec it is.&#xA;First SG reading: 1.041&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastEditorUserId="1688" LastEditDate="2013-03-19T22:23:08.627" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T22:23:08.627" Title="Side-effects of 'lower than recommended' fermentation temperatures?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9587" CreationDate="2013-03-19T12:28:25.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the start of the fermentation the Yeast reproduces quickly using the oxygen present in the beer and produces diacetyl which imparts a buttery flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is why it is usually recommended to start the fermentation at a lower temperature to slow down the diacetyl production (and the reproduction rate, I suppose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer fermentation is then 'finished' at a slightly higher temperature so the yeast consumes the diacetyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in principle you should rise the temperature after a few more days to allow that to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, maybe your beer didn't produce much diacetyl to start with due to the cold temperatures (although the beer temperature will be higher due to the heat generated by the fermentation). So if you can't do that, you may still be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ale yeast usually works on the range of 18C to 23C, bellow that the yeast may floculate before all sugars are consumed, resulting in an incomplete fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to summarize the risks are buttery taste (diacetyl) and sweet beer (incomplete fermentation). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about it though, just follow your fermentation schedule, measure the gravity and give it a taste, if you find some of the flavors above, warm it up a bit to waken up the yeast and leave it longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T12:28:25.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9633" CreationDate="2013-03-19T12:57:26.033" Score="2" ViewCount="2537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Fuggles for bitter and for flavour/aroma. While I am content with flavour/aroma I find that bitterness is a bit harsh. Is it just my opinion, or Fuggle is not very suitable for bitterness? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe I used was the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;for 4,5l&#xA;&#xA;400g amber dry extract&#xA;85g crystal 120L (steep for 45' in around 70C water)&#xA;&#xA;8g Fuggles 5% 60'&#xA;3.2g Fuggles 5% 30'&#xA;3.2g Fuggles 5% 15'&#xA;3.2g Fuggles 5% 2'&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-03-30T23:18:09.723" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T23:18:09.723" Title="Fuggles hops for bittering" Tags="|hops|bittering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9589" CreationDate="2013-03-19T13:28:07.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2c: I did a (high IBU) single-varietal Fuggles barley wine many years ago and didn't get any harshness - it was one of my favourite beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1395" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T13:28:07.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9589" CreationDate="2013-03-19T13:36:24.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuggles aren't typically used for bittering being as their alpha's are so low. I have never experienced a bitter harshness from use of fuggles. Of course it's all recipe dependent, what was your hop schedule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T13:36:24.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9593" CreationDate="2013-03-19T22:39:01.830" Score="3" ViewCount="5253" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another fact finding question: How long can I - theoretically - leave my Ginger Beer brew in the primary (a 5 gallon glass carboy) before bottling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions suggest 8 days, hovever it's fermenting slow due to low temps, so I'm expecting at least 2 weeks. But if I wanted to bottle it in say a month, would that be bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T14:12:08.073" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T18:44:55.053" Title="How long can I leave my Ginger Beer (kit) in the primary?" Tags="|bottling|primary-fermentation|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9592" CreationDate="2013-03-19T23:27:45.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never go past 3 weeks on the primary yeast cake. If left too long the yeast can start to consume some of the trub material and produce &quot;off&quot; flavors. A month probably will be fine and I'm sure there are those who leave it sitting on the trub longer but I like to take it off and play on the safe side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T23:27:45.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9592" CreationDate="2013-03-19T23:27:52.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't leave it more than 3 weeks in primary. I expect it will be done in 2 weeks max, so you could bottle any time from 2-3 weeks from start of fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many will say 4 weeks is fine, but you're definitely in the area of picking up a yeast bite. I've left beers in primary for 4 weeks at 18C and they've been undrinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T23:27:52.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9600" CreationDate="2013-03-21T00:26:26.780" Score="1" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first brewing attempt (from a can) has just finished bottle fermenting and it turned out pretty bad (mostly just tasted very weak). I'm not concerned though, I know what mistakes I made along the way, and I'm already excited about my next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this next one, I want to ensure I have proper temperature control (one of my main mistakes). So, I've got &lt;a href=&quot;http://m.harveynorman.com.au/westinghouse-240l-single-door-fridge.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this fridge&lt;/a&gt; spare. From what I understand, I'll need to buy the following items to control it: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=718&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FridgeMate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Temperature Controller Stainless Steel Probe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=1095&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jiffy Box&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this everything I need?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking, then I would try a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/default.asp?CID=88&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fresh Wort Kit&lt;/a&gt; (baby steps!). Is it then simply a matter of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour wort into fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add appropriate yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put in fridge, set temperature, wait&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle after FG is stable in a week or so&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance, I really appreciate the assistance :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; one final question. With most Fresh Wort Kits - do I need to worry about storage time or temperature? Or is that only once fermentation begins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3174" LastEditorUserId="3174" LastEditDate="2013-03-21T02:22:25.760" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T05:52:43.120" Title="Temperature control equipment and Fresh Wort Kits" Tags="|wort|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9598" CreationDate="2013-03-21T00:59:07.030" Score="3" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking into ways to restart unfinished fermentation and some sources talk about using a Cake, or yeast cake from previous brews. They also talk about pitching on the cake. I've searched to try and find an explanation but haven't succeded thus far. Can someone enlighten me please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T14:02:36.750" Title="What is the 'cake'?" Tags="|yeast-starters|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9597" CreationDate="2013-03-21T01:14:07.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cake is referring the yeast the was produced from a previous batch of beer. Yeast reproduces as it ferments the beer. The layer on the bottom of the fermenter is the yeast that grew during fermentation. Some people will brew a batch of beer and pitch it directly onto the cake created from a previous brew. The preferred method would be to wash the yeast and measure the amount used for the proper pitching rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a stuck fermentation, try giving the fermenter a swirl to stir the yeast up, and also try warming the fermenter a bit, into the mid to upper 60's but depending on the style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your current gravity reading? What type of beer? All grain or extract? What yeast strain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T01:14:07.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9596" CreationDate="2013-03-21T01:24:40.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend going with something like this for temp control. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0057APR3I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Control-Products-TC-9102D-HV-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0057APR3I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1363828571&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=dual+stage+temperature+controller&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It's what I use on my 49cf True cooler for fermenting and it controls the cooling system and a radiant heater for the winter months. It's cheaper than piecing one together and all in one so it's ready to go. You can use a heavy gauge extension cord to wire it up, then run the probe into the refrigerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the rest of your process, all sounds good except the bottling after a week or so. If it's a lighter style (cream ale, hefeweizen, etc) wait at least 2-3 weeks before bottling. Darker styles (stouts, brown ale, etc), wait 4-6 weeks. That's likely why you're not too satisfied with your first batch. It takes patience. Even a lighter style beer will typically take 4-6 weeks before it's ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T01:24:40.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9596" CreationDate="2013-03-21T01:26:51.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes this is pretty much all you need, apart from a spare grommet for the beer temp sensor. (Those fresh wort kits look great - I may never have started AG brewing if they had those locally!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I wouldn't put the sensor in the beer. The beer will take a  long time to change temperature, while the fridge chamber cools quickly. What tends to happen is the fridge temperature decreases much below the beer temperature, and stays there until the beer temperature has fallen below the setpoint, and the fridge compressor is switched off. But then the fridge is still very cold, often below freezing, and the beer continues chilling, missing the setpoint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a simple on-off controller, the most effective solution is to place the sensor in a small glass of water, or simply leave it free floating in the fridge. In the early stages of fermentation, set the setpoint a couple of degrees (C) below your ideal temperature, to account for the heat generated during vigorous fermentation. As time progresses, you can increase the temperature up to the setpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For measuring the temperature of the beer, more advanced control is needed, including a separate sensor in the fridge to keep the fridge temp a few degrees within the beer temp. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewpi.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewpi&lt;/a&gt; project implements a system like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-03-21T15:11:51.650" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T15:11:51.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9597" CreationDate="2013-03-21T01:32:47.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast cake is the name given to the body of yeast at the bottom of the fermentor that's left behind after racking off your beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T01:32:47.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9597" CreationDate="2013-03-21T01:37:55.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bigger question is WHY fermentation stopped in the first place? Did you pitch enough viable yeast? If not i would pitch some more yeast. Are you fermenting to cold? If so give the fermenter a good stir with a sanitized spoon and put it in a warmer spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are you sure fermentation is stopped? Have you taken a gravity reading? Sometimes vigorous fermentation can end within 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have hit your desired FG keep the brew on the current year cake for at least 2 weeks to finish some conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your question about using yeast from a previous brew. That is referring to using a yeast starter. Made with yeast from the trub of another brewing session and starting a mini brew with some DME. After that is finished you can pitching the whole thing in and you should have enough viable yeast cells to ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-03-21T14:02:36.750" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T14:02:36.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9592" CreationDate="2013-03-21T01:38:53.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A month is nothing to worry about, and in fact common for many brewers. I leave brews in the primary for 4-6 weeks quite often. The concern the others are referring to is called autolysis. It's very unlikely to happen in a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a clip from Palmer for more information about it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter10-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter10-3.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T01:38:53.220" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9604" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-21T01:40:46.297" Score="2" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dominant color of my scoby is, for lack of a better color vocabulary, light plum.  But there are some whiteish bits which concern me a bit.  I would say it smells fairly fresh (and sour) and tastes pretty good.  Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3265" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2013-03-21T14:34:21.457" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T16:30:23.967" Title="How do I know if my Kombucha Scoby is growing something funky?" Tags="|food-safety|kombucha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-21T13:09:25.890" Score="4" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you identify the constants in your hydrometer correction equation?  I know that 2.6X10-6 is the coefficient of thermal expansion for the hydrometer glass; what are the others (not related to converting F to C)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3266" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-03-21T14:36:00.210" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T14:36:00.210" Title="Hydrometer correction equation" Tags="|specific-gravity|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9605" CreationDate="2013-03-21T14:30:20.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I use Beer Smith (or any number of online calculators). I found this article that may be of use to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/brewery/library/HydromCorr0992.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hbd.org/brewery/library/HydromCorr0992.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T14:30:20.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9455" CreationDate="2013-03-22T00:08:31.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9453/addition-of-extract-at-bottling-time/9465#9465&quot;&gt;answered&lt;/a&gt; this in your &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9453/addition-of-extract-at-bottling-time&quot;&gt;previous&lt;/a&gt; edition of this question. Yes, you do need to still add priming sugar because none of those additional ingredients are fermentable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The priming sugar doesn't add any sweetness, if that's what your concern is, it just provides the sugars for the yeast to produce co2 to carbonate the beer. All of the sugar is converted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the extracts you are adding, you will get flat beer unless you also add priming sugar. So, yes, add priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T00:08:31.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-22T02:13:04.720" Score="7" ViewCount="10696" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a bit gimmicky, but I wonder if it's possible to make a purple beer? Food Coloring only works for &quot;hard&quot; food, but I've never looked into coloring beverages and I don't want to affect the taste and create something as horrendous as Crystal Pepsi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2028" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T11:03:53.320" Title="Can I change the color to my beer to an arbitrary color?" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9608" CreationDate="2013-03-22T09:09:06.223" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I imagine it depends upon the type of coloring - some food coloring can also work in liquids - just try dropping a few drops in a glass of water. With beer, you may need a lot of coloring for it to influence the beer color significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending upon the beer style, you can also color with fruit juices, but of course these will have some affect on the flavor. For example, you could make a purple hefeweisen by adding blueberries in primary. I once made a cranberry hefe for halloween, which had a blood-red tinge to it. Cranberries are quite sour so I didn't want to add too much - with blueberries you could use more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T09:09:06.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-22T11:08:10.443" Score="2" ViewCount="3941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1kg bag of Youngs Brewing and Winemaking Sugar. It was bought early last year, and the pack has a Best Before date of 08/08/12. &#xA;I was hoping to use it for bottle priming next week. Does sugar 'go off'? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It's a white very fine and light powder, with no more markings on the packet to show exactly what type of sugar it is)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T05:45:08.627" Title="How important is the 'Best Before' date on Brewing Sugar?" Tags="|sugar|priming-sugar|youngs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9610" CreationDate="2013-03-22T12:29:47.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't have even cared on looking the best before date and would have just used it, but your question is intriguing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found an article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eatbydate.com/other/sweets/how-long-does-sugar-last/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;claiming that most sugars don't actually go bad.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry Malt Extract and Liquid Malt Extract on the other hand are better used fresh from what I have been reading. Not sure exactly what goes bad there though (perhaps someone could enlighten that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T12:29:47.500" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9612" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-03-22T14:22:04.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A beverage that is created by symbiotic yeast and bacteria (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SCOBY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SCOBY&lt;/a&gt;) fermenting in tea. It originated in northern China and spread to Russia. Some people feel that is has many health benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kombucha&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="18351" LastEditDate="2020-06-28T16:32:46.810" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T16:32:46.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9613" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-03-22T14:22:04.607" Score="0" Body="A beverage that is created by symbiotic yeast and bacteria (SCOBY) fermenting in tea." OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="18351" LastEditDate="2020-06-26T02:21:58.427" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T02:21:58.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9608" CreationDate="2013-03-23T13:11:12.827" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ordinary water-based food coloring works fine. I once made a green beer for St. Patrick's Day by brewing up a simple ale and then adding in yellow and blue food coloring after primary was over until it was green. I would stay away from food products initially, because some of them (like fruit) can influence the flavor as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to remember is that the starting color of the beer will GREATLY affect the final color after the additives. If your beer starts out Pale Yellow, for example, then you might just want to add a little Blue to make it Green in the end. If your base beer is anything darker than an IPA, you are going to really have to play around to see if you can hit the final color. I would suggest pulling out a half pint or so, and adding the dye in very small amounts to see if the final color is even possible. For example, I doubt you could ever make a beer Blue unless it was incredibly pale to begin with, since adding Blue to even the palest beer would probably make it Green. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colors that are based on starting with Yellow or Red seem more probable. You could probably turn a pale beer Orange with a little Red, or maybe turn an amber beer purple with a little Blue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2017-07-25T12:48:16.193" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T12:48:16.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9610" CreationDate="2013-03-24T05:45:08.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely unimportant until the malt extract is opened, within reason.  &quot;Within reason&quot; being on the scale of &lt;em&gt;years&lt;/em&gt;.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For priming sugar, you've got almost nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3271" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T05:45:08.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9596" CreationDate="2013-03-24T05:52:43.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preface: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temperature controller you linked to is roughly an STC-1000.  It can be had for $30USD on eBay, which is a little cheaper (28 AUD) than the linked item.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hobby box you linked to looks like a good price.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The probe that you linked to is entirely unnecessary.  You can get just-as-good temperature control by taping the temperature probe to the side of your fermenter.  It's sufficiently small that there's no real benefit.  Once you get into 30+ gallon fermentations, having your temperature probe in the middle of the fermentation makes sense -- at 5 gallons, it's not worth $30AUD.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For new homebrewers, the following course is generally what I recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brewing from a can (hopped malt extract)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brewing from malt extract and loose hops (pellets or leaf)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All-grain brewing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, temperature control will not make too much of a difference at &quot;Level 1&quot;.  You would be better served by getting better ingredients, and particularly at having attempted multiple brews.  Practice makes perfect!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as your main question regarding &quot;is this everything I need [for temperature control]&quot;?  Yes, those are the specific items required for temperature control -- in addition to a refrigerator/freezer to maintain the proper temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3271" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T05:52:43.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9544" CreationDate="2013-03-24T05:55:05.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mason jars are your friend.  You can buy them at Wal-Mart by the dozen, they are leak-proof and easy to sanitize.  They come in a variety of sizes as well.  Mason jars are used to can fruit preserves (among other things) in a completely &lt;em&gt;sterile&lt;/em&gt; manner (which is beyond &lt;em&gt;sanitary&lt;/em&gt;).  Screw-on lids will give you plenty of protection, especially if you steam-pressure sterilize, or use your regular brewing sanitizer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3271" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T05:55:05.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9620" CreationDate="2013-03-24T07:49:21.627" Score="3" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if that's on-topic, but I'm converting an old barrel into a tap system. Essentially a Keezer, except that I don't like something that still looks like an appliance - a barrel is just more authentic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem: How do I cool the kegs inside? Since it's not needed to be permanently one (it's for a weekly or biweekly event), I could just dump in a bunch of ice every time I need to bring out the bar, but I'm lazy and that's boring :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that there are heating spirals, but I wonder if there are cooling spirals or other flexible ways that I just plug into a power outlet and have it cool my two 5-gallon kegs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2028" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T15:21:21.390" Title="Are there Cooling &quot;Spirals&quot; or similar devices?" Tags="|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9618" CreationDate="2013-03-24T11:59:07.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really, unfortunately. Heating is a much easier mechanical process than cooling is, and as a result cooling applications tend to be more involved and more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You could get a glycol chiller of some sort. A glycol chiller is usually a standard refrigerator compressor used to circulate liquid. Works well, but it's expensive, bulky, and loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) you could DIY some thermo electric plates (peltiers). These require a lot of air circulation and generally don't provide enough heat differential to keep beer cold in ambient room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ice isn't terribly fun, but there aren't many better options for most applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T11:59:07.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9618" CreationDate="2013-03-24T15:21:21.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could buy or build a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Jockey-Box-Beer-tapcooler/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;jockey box&lt;/a&gt;. It's just a coil of stainless steel or copper immersed in ice with a spigot at one end a quick release at the other, all inside an insulated container. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't cool the keg down, but rather cools the beer as you're serving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T15:21:21.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-24T18:15:32.410" Score="2" ViewCount="3436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm quite new to homebrewing (in fact, I only finished batch #2 last week) but looking to test out a few new types of drink.  I'm planning on starting a batch of Pilsner in a few weeks, for this I will be using a Muntons Connoisseur Pilsner kit (not export pilsner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read through the instructions, which state that primary fermentation will be 4-6 days (or below 1008), at which point bottling should take place (I've opted for bottles instead of a barrel this time round)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a little confused now.  I've done a little research online (although a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing) and it seems that other people who've made pilsners have taken much longer (in on case I think 3 or 4 weeks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The impression I got was that not only does the yeast for a lager/pilsner work slowly (because of the lower temperatures involved and the nature of the yeast used) but it also needs &quot;lagering&quot; for some time at a low temperature (the instructions on the kit suggest 2 weeks after bottling or transferring to the barrel).  Also, the fact that I'm told to leave the fermenter in a warm place does go against my understanding of how a lager/pilsner is supposed to be produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have only made ales (one batch in a barrel, the other in bottles) so I'm in uncharted territory.  Can anyone let me know if I'm worrying about nothing or whether I should deviate from the kit instructions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2765" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T20:40:25.680" Title="First batch with Muntons Pilsner kit, will it take longer than instructed?" Tags="|lagering|primary-fermentation|pilsner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9621" CreationDate="2013-03-24T18:36:32.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most extract-based lager kits are sold with an ale yeast. This is because most home-brewers don't have the equipment to ferment at a consistent low temperature. You could check the kit to make sure, but it's almost certainly the case that your kit makes a light ale, not a lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck in the past with WYeast 2112 (California Lager, equivalent to White Labs WLP810, San Francisco Lager) for making a pseudo-lager at ale temperatures. I find that it produces some of the crisp maltiness that I associate with lagers and none of the esters I associate with ales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the timing suggested by your kit, even for an ale fermented at room temperature, it is too quick. Primary fermentation will likely be over within 6 days, but the beer will be considerably improved by leaving it for another two weeks before bottling. The yeast will continue to &quot;clean up&quot; the beer by removing acetaldehyde and higher alcohols that contribute to a &quot;green&quot; flavor in beer. Some people would rack the beer into a clean carboy for a secondary fermentation, but I don't believe it necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the gravity after 6 days to confirm that fermentation is completed (SG should be near the target for the kit: 1.008) then leave it alone for another 2 weeks before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T18:36:32.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9621" CreationDate="2013-03-24T18:39:57.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I for one would never bottle before a week is through. I leave my brews in primary for 3 weeks. Not because it needs to ferment longer but because the beer needs to condition on the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While your beer may be (and most likely will be) done fermenting after 4-6 days, to round out the flavor I would let it sit at least two weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kit instructions are generally geared to getting the beer drinkable in the shortest amount of time, not necessarily making it the best that it could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-03-24T20:40:25.680" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T20:40:25.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9604" CreationDate="2013-03-25T00:31:31.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the white bits are on the top, it is probably a mold. I once got this when I tried using honey as a sweetener instead of sugar. To get rid of the mold I first skimmed all of the white bits off the tea and then poured most of the brewed tea out except for a very very small amount. I then rinsed my scoby and added it to the small amount of brewed liquid and a new batch of tea and it was fine. Mothers are very adaptable and hard to annoy so often the problems are in the tea rather than the organism, but it is important to not let cultures grow. If this sounds like your issue, I would suggest doing the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to be concerned about is the color of the scoby itself. If the daughter created looks discolored, that could be a problem. If the mother still looks fine you can throw out the daughter and make a new batch and see what happens. Otherwise if you have a reserve mother you keep in a jar in your fridge or cabinet, it might be a good time to start using it instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2926" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T00:31:31.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9627" CreationDate="2013-03-25T02:23:18.553" Score="1" ViewCount="700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing extract batches for a couple of months, and have never lost a batch to poor sanitation. I lost my first all grain batch of beer, and I think that I am sanitizing my brew kettle and fermenter well. Any advice when sanitizing mad tuns, and any tips for all grain sanitation in general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3275" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T05:28:56.510" Title="sanitation during mash and sparge" Tags="|all-grain|sanitation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9626" CreationDate="2013-03-25T02:30:30.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mash tun simply needs to be cleaned - no need to sanitize - any microbes are wiped out in the boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting contamination issues specifically with all-grain, then it has to be post-boil - I can only think that it may be because of your chiller, assuming you weren't using that when doing an extract brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T02:30:30.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9630" CreationDate="2013-03-25T07:10:31.320" Score="2" ViewCount="1018" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making an American Brown Ale and added liquid yeast to the wort that may have been too hot. The yeast was in the fridge and out to cool for 45 minutes. My guess is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wort temp: 26-27C or about 80F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquid yeast temp: 8C or about 47F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it sound like I killed the yeast? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, what kind of dry yeast should I get to add to the beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3239" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-03-28T08:57:31.550" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T08:57:31.550" Title="Yeast pitching and wort cooling" Tags="|yeast|temperature|pitching|brown-ale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9629" CreationDate="2013-03-25T11:35:07.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast will survive. Most yeast will survive up to 30C, and some strains up to 40C. The pitching temperature is high, so you will probably get some off flavors from that, namely,  more fruitiness from increased ester production, and a hot alcohol taste from fusel alcohols (think bad whiskey.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can chill the wort down to 18C that would be ideal to reduce the impact of the high pitching temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T11:35:07.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9629" CreationDate="2013-03-25T11:35:52.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your wort was at 80°F/27°C, you definitely didn't kill your yeast. Yeast thrive at temperatures well into the 90s, and can survive significantly higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want to ferment at that temperature, though, and likewise you don't want to pitch that warm because immediately dropping the temperature can cause your yeast to flocculate early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T11:35:52.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9658" CreationDate="2013-03-25T15:45:47.940" Score="2" ViewCount="1437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read in some sources that mash conditions can influence the production of dextrins, that are not fermentable, have no taste (is that correct?) and add body to the beer. But somewhere else I read that mash conditions can contribute to sweetness (for example with decoction mash), what kind of compounds are produced during mash that will give some malty flavor or sweetness in finished beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T18:30:52.483" Title="Mash-produced unfermentable sugars do add sweetness and aroma?" Tags="|mash|mashing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9589" CreationDate="2013-03-25T15:54:27.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks everybody for your help, after some research I think that what I experienced is mostly because of those reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuggles has a not so low cohumulone content, compared with noble hops. Moreover the one I used was (not English) Fuggles, which has higher cohumulone content than English Fuggles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In my particular case the hops used were harvested in 2011 (more than a year ago)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recipe was an amber ale, about 1.045 OG from extract, with moderate Crystal addition. The result didn't have plenty of body and final sweetness, that could have better balanced bitterness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T15:54:27.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9632" CreationDate="2013-03-25T16:16:06.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note: I am not a chemist. My homebrewing understanding is along the lines of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mashing at a higher temperature will promote the alpha-amylase enzyme to breakdown the sugars, while mashing at a lower temperature will promote the beta-amylase enzyme to breakdown the sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alpha-amylase will produce dextrins which will contribute to sweetness and body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beta-amylase will produce fermentable sugars, hence more alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T16:16:06.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9632" CreationDate="2013-03-25T16:20:41.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sweetness is pretty much dependent on recipe, not mashing.  Using crystal malts or reducing hops will emphasize sweetness.  Manipulating mash temps will mainly affect body and mouthfeel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T16:20:41.270" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9637" CreationDate="2013-03-25T16:29:14.057" Score="2" ViewCount="2010" Body="&lt;p&gt;For whatever reason, Beersmith decided to have me lauter my all-grain recipe with an exorbitant amount of water.  I don't have the exact recipe in front of me at the moment (can provide details later if necessary), but from what I recall looking at the brew steps, I was aiming for a 6 gallon batch, and it had me mashing with 4.5 gallons, sparging with ~9.  I knew something was off when I looked at the brew step that said I should end the boil with 7.5 gallons, to achieve a 6 gallon amount for fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea how these numbers came about, but I certainly did not sparge with all 9 gallons.  Maybe 7-8, and my pre-boil gravity was well under what Beersmith estimated.  It was a batch sparge, no mash out.  Again, I can't provide specifics at this very moment, but instead of correcting that recipe, I was more curious about what can be done in the event that your pre-boil gravity is lower than expected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case I had between 7 - 8 gallons going into the boil kettle, I just let it boil down for about 1 - 2 hours before I began my hop additions.  In the long run, surprisingly I wound up at about 5.5 - 6 gallons of wort to go into the fermenter when it was all said and done, but what is the normal method for correcting an under-shot pre-boil gravity?  Is sacrificing quantity the only way of correcting this sort of shortcoming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T18:07:58.910" Title="Recovering from low mash efficiency - under-shot pre-boil gravity" Tags="|sparge|mashing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9636" CreationDate="2013-03-25T17:18:41.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your pre-boil gravity is low you can goose it with some DME or whatever fermentable sugar you prefer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the issues with beersmith, its hard really to know without the recipe so when you have that throw it up and we can examine it more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T17:18:41.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9636" CreationDate="2013-03-25T18:07:58.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I just let it boil down for about 1 - 2 hours before I began my hop&#xA;  additions. [...] but what is the normal method for correcting an under-shot&#xA;  pre-boil gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiling for 1.5-2 hours is quite common. It sounds like the advice you got from Beersmith was correct. Your pre-boil volume is usually about 1.2-1.5 times your expected volume into the fermentor. I always boil for 90 mins, and 120 mins for pilsner, where I get typically 2-3 gallons of water boiled off. In your case, you had an extra gallon an a half. That does sound a touch excessive, but not unheard of. You can look at the equipment profile, particularly deadspace in the kettle and losses to trub and chiller - these are added to the pre-boil volume so you hit the right volume into the fermentor. Also double-check the configured boil time and boil-off rate, since that will also be taken into consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the diluted preboil wort, Beersmith also computes the pre-boil gravity, so you can check if you are on target. You expect the pre-boil gravity to be lower (around 70-80%) compared to your target OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T18:07:58.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9645" CreationDate="2013-03-25T21:23:31.593" Score="23" ViewCount="29204" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing 5 gallon batches at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the transfer from my primary fermenter to the secondary, and when filling bottles from my bottling bucket I constantly need to use plastic tubing to transfer the beer/wort. After Im done i give these tubes a thorough rinse but often find that there are small specks of yeast/hops that get stuck in the tube that seem impossible to wash out. are there any good methods for cleaning these tubes or am i expected to buy new tubing for each brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ive also found that even if i do manage to clean them well enough that there is no visible residue, drying these tubes is a pain as well. Ive tried hanging them up or using the dishwasher, but either they deform under the heat or there is condensation that forms which is impossible to remove that eventually starts to mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips?&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3226" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T11:14:59.993" Title="Methods for cleaning and drying tubing" Tags="|cleaning|tubing|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9642" CreationDate="2013-03-25T23:56:55.940" Score="3" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing a kit Ginger Beer the last 10 days and it's about finished I think. Starting SG was 1.041 and it's settled at 1.008. 100g of grated boiled Ginger were added, and 1kg of Muntons Beer Enhancer (spray dried dextrose and spray dried malt extract).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drew some off earlier, chilled it and tasted it. There's an overly sweet false taste like someone's mixed coke zero with ginger. I've checked the ingredients of the kit and it has Acesulfame K in it! I thought these 'Simply' branded kits were all natural ingredients, my mistake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this 'false sweet taste' sound like the Acesulfame K to you, or could it be that I need to try and encourage the fermentation to go lower than 1.008 to mop up any final fermentables? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T00:09:59.983" Title="Sickly sweet ginger beer, Acesulfame K?" Tags="|sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9639" CreationDate="2013-03-26T00:02:38.653" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cleaning, if you're able to get all the debris out with water and a cleanser then I wouldn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually give the stubborn stuff a good soak in warm PBW, then flush with hot water. Worst case scenario, I use a bottle brush or dip tube brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For drying, the two most common methods are hanging and blowing out with an air compressor. There's a relevant discussion on the AHA forums here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=15015.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Homebrewers Association Forum.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't worry about getting my hoses fully dry. After wash and rinse I just hang them and sometimes even put them away slightly wet. I always flush hoses before use and sanitize if they're going to touch post-brew wort or beer. I've never had a problem, never seen mold growing in them, never smelled anything funky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-11-07T23:25:10.437" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T23:25:10.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9640" CreationDate="2013-03-26T00:09:59.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be surprised if 1.008 tasted excessively sweet - that's not very much &quot;regular&quot; sugar, so it does sound like some kind of artificial sweetener. Acesulfame K won't show up on the hydrometer, since it is 200  times sweeter than sucrose for the same mass, so very little is needed. It does have a slightly bitter aftertaste, so I think you'll notice it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acesulfame_potassium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia: Acesulfame Potassium&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T00:09:59.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9639" CreationDate="2013-03-26T02:06:16.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've also never had a real problem with my tubing. Always rinse immediately after using with hot water and then hang up... I typically forget About Them until next time I need them. At that point is another rinse and Starsan soak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T02:06:16.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9639" CreationDate="2013-03-26T12:32:35.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always keep two 5 gallon buckets on hand when I'm brewing. One filled with PBW and one filled with Sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the hoses come in contact with my cooled wort, they soak in PBW the entire time I'm brewing up the beer. I make these buckets at the very beginning of the brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the time comes to use them, I attach to my autosiphon and run a few pumps of the solution through the hoses. After that, I do a quick rinse in the starsan, pump some of it through the hose and I'm good to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm done transferring I'll run some more PBW through the lines and then rinse with starsan and hang it up to dry for next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T12:32:35.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9639" CreationDate="2013-03-26T13:27:14.503" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well as you asked for 'tips', I've used the following to both dislodge stubborn material from the inside of tubes, and to remove excess water which aids drying: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fu97Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a stainless steel brake cable from a bicycle, with a peice of towelling skewered on the end. The one I used was just over 2 meters long. I sterilise the whole thing, and just 'drag' it through the lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there's a maximum tube ID this will work for, and tubes over 2 meters are an issue, but.. it's an idea and saved me some hassle over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addition: I'm told 'towelling' might not be the name used outside the UK. Apparently it's often called Terry Cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-03-26T20:16:04.083" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T20:16:04.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9648" CreationDate="2013-03-26T20:23:55.623" Score="11" ViewCount="3699" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about making the switch to BIAB, primarily as a result of a growing family and increased time constraints. I have a few questions before I make the jump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long is a typical BIAB brew day?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What (if any) are the major drawbacks to using this method of brewing? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How large a volume kettle am I look at to brew 5 gallon batches?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any tips or tricks to getting the best efficiency out of your BIAB setup?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any changes that need to be made to the recipe in order to make the recipes &quot;work&quot;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T00:29:47.333" Title="About going BIAB" Tags="|biab|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9646" CreationDate="2013-03-26T20:50:38.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My two cents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9406/how-to-calculate-the-minimum-vessel-sizes-for-all-grain-brewing&quot;&gt;that question I asked some time ago&lt;/a&gt;, the volume you will need should be around 40L (10.5 US gallons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BIAB mashes will have a lower efficiency when compared to batch or fly sparging, the wort on the other hand may be of better quality. You can remediate the lower efficiency by adding more grains, which will in turn demand a bigger kettle...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T20:50:38.510" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9646" CreationDate="2013-03-26T22:07:46.483" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been BIAB for some time for similar reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How long is a typical BIAB brew day?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup is an large kettle with a spigot, an immersion chiller and a bag that fits well with a drawstring around the top of my pot. I use an electric stovetop and usually get my water up to temp in 15-20mins for mashing, mash for an hour, squeeze out the bag 5 minutes, bring to boil 15-20mins, boil 1 hour, use immersion cooler to cool wort ~15mins, transfer to carboy 5 mins, cleanup 30-45mins. So in total around 4 hours. Doing a normal setup you would have sparging an additional 30-45mins and longer perhaps depending on your setup, mash or alternative approach. So you save maybe an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What (if any) are the major drawbacks to using this method of brewing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't really found an drawbacks. One possible drawback would be efficiency but I haven't had a problem with that yet and have brewed big beers. I love this approach to brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How large a volume kettle am I look at to brew 5 gallon batches?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually don't have much loss because I squeeze as much of the liquid out of the grains in the bag. This means for 5 gallon batches a normal 10 gallon or 8 gallon should do fine and I would suggest starting with 6.5 or 6 gallons of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any tips or tricks to getting the best efficiency out of your BIAB setup?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, strip often when mashing. I stir vigorously every 15 minutes. This goes against what some people do for mashing because they worry about disturbing the grain bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, for a while I didn't squeeze out the bag and then tried tried squeezing the liquid out of my bag using my bare hands. Wort is hot in case you don't know and that can be painful. Get some gloves. But also there really didn't seem to be a big difference in the amount of tannins of tannin like quality to the beers where I squeezed out the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I tried running 150 degree F water over the grains and it didn't really help much either in terms of efficiency so I don't bother. I have been setting my efficiency at 65% when I plan beers and have been getting something more like 70% efficiency which is quite good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any changes that need to be made to the recipe in order to make the recipes &quot;work&quot;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been able to use recipes directly the only thing I usually do is lower the efficiency to 65%, but that may not be necessary you might be able to test that out. I don't mind my beers having a little bit more alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you try it an like it. I know I have been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T22:07:46.483" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9646" CreationDate="2013-03-26T23:08:14.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started brewing in January using BIAB.  My timeline coincides with what Chris Plaisier reported, although I don't have a wort chiller at this point so it takes longer to get down to pitching temperature.  I do sparge with 165 degree F water and that usually requires about 30-45 minutes as he said.  With sparging I've been staying very close to 70% efficiency, which doesn't seem worth the time and effort given what Chris said he's getting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest problem with my early batches (on an electric stove top using an 8 gallon aluminum pot) was controlling the mash temperature.  It would fall to 145 degrees within a half hour and I'd have to figure out how to lift out the grain bag long enough to get the heat back to my target temp, and then my brew day was extended and mash time was always a little bit of a guessing game for me.  I solved this finally by wrapping my pot in insulation (which I reclaimed from a replaced dishwasher).  Now I start at 165, mash in the grain, cover and wrap the pot in insulation, and amazingly, my mash is at precisely 153 degrees for an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Timing things that shortened my brew day when sparging (sorry if these are really obvious, but I'm really new to brewing and had to learn them the hard way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat the sparge water while you're waiting on the mash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start bringing up the wort temp as you're sparging to get to a boil faster.  Usually by the time I'm done sparging my wort is up to ~180.  I take a sample with a pyrex measuring cup and throw it in the fridge/freezer so I can cool it enough to get the pre-boil gravity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been targeting 5 or 5.5 gallon batches using standard recipes and haven't had any issues so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3282" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T23:08:14.387" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="680" CreationDate="2013-03-27T07:35:28.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not boil down the mountain dew to reduce it to a thickened state and add it in late in the fermentation (or even afterwards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3285" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T07:35:28.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9655" CreationDate="2013-03-29T06:02:39.360" Score="7" ViewCount="24260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I connected my CO2 Cylinder to my Keg and have it currently force-carbonating. However, it will only be needed next week friday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I leave the CO2 Cylinder connected for 8 days at 20psi, or should I just disconnect it and leave the Keg in the fridge until next week?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2028" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T06:59:17.673" Title="Should I leave the CO2 Cylinder connected after force carbonation?" Tags="|kegging|co2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9654" CreationDate="2013-03-29T06:21:37.857" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fine to  disconnect, or you can leave it connected. In fact, you have 3 choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a need to remove the CO2 tank now, you can do that, and connect up again 5 days before you need the beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternatively, leave the CO2 connected now for 5 days to fully carbonate the beer and then disconnect. The beer will stay carbonated and will be ready when you need it. (During serving, it's a good idea to keep the CO2 connected if much of the keg will be consumed, so the dispensing pressure is maintained.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, you could simply leave the CO2 tank connected until the keg is empty. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are sure that you have no leaks, then option #3 is the simplest and least trouble-free. Should you need to disconnect the CO2 tank for some reason, then #2 is preferable over #1, simply because the beer will then be fully carbonated. With #1, the beer may only be partially carbonated - if there's little CO2 in the beer, it's possible the pressure in the headspace can drop below what's needed to maintain the lid seal on the keg when the CO2 in the headspace dissolves into the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, it's fine to disconnect the co2, just be mindful of when you need to reconnect to have it ready for serving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T06:21:37.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9657" CreationDate="2013-03-29T11:30:13.307" Score="1" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of software to manage and recipes, do conversions etc. (for example BeerSmith, BeerTools, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any software that also integrates a timer (that alerts you mash steps, boiling hops, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-03-29T14:47:17.220" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T14:47:17.220" Title="Brewing timer in Brewing software" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9656" CreationDate="2013-03-29T12:09:10.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of them of them do! Certainly BeerSmith and iBrewmaster have timer functions built in. BeerTools does not, I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T12:09:10.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9632" CreationDate="2013-03-29T18:30:52.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mash temperature specifically doesn't really make for a sweeter beer. While adjusting mash temperature allows the brewer to control the balance of simple (fermentable) sugars and dextrins (unfermentable), increasing either doesn't produce a sweeter beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increasing simple sugars doesn't make the beer sweeter - primarily any sweetness from these sugars is lost when they are fermented.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increasing dextrins doesn't increase sweetness considerably, because dextrins are not all that sweet. Dextrins have around 5-10% the sweetness of table sugar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be thinking of melanoidins. These are a class of Maillard reaction compounds - of which there are many, with flavors like bready, malty. Some say richer, sweeter, but not like candy. They are produced with heat in addition to amino acids, proteins and carbohydrates. The high temperature of a decoction mash increases the rate of production of melanoidins. You can also emulate the effect with (Weyermann) Melanoidin Malt, aka Aromatic Malt from other malters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T18:30:52.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9664" CreationDate="2013-03-29T19:16:44.660" Score="6" ViewCount="1273" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently purchased a bottle tree (not sure how I went so long without one) for drying/storing my sanitized bottles.  Is it is overkill to sanitize the bottle tree in sanitizing solution as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE:  I realize this is somewhat subjective, so please back up your answer with rationale (i.e. &quot;You should-- I forgot to once and it spoiled my batch...&quot;).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3245" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T01:22:42.103" Title="Necessary to clean bottle tree?" Tags="|equipment|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9659" CreationDate="2013-03-29T20:30:52.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My subjective answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes you should.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nasties happen to land on the branches of the tree your bottles can pick them up after you pull them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me letting my tree sit for 30 seconds in sanitizer isn't much of a hassle at all, and better safe than sorry right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd rather not you probably wont spoil anything to be honest. But why not play it safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T20:30:52.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9661" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-03-29T20:32:49.607" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-03-29T20:32:49.607" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T20:32:49.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9662" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-03-29T20:32:49.607" Score="0" Body="An all grain technique of making beer that uses just a single vessel to mash, sparge and boil. During the mash the grain is physically removed via a bag or some other form of retainer." OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-03-30T01:09:20.770" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T01:09:20.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9659" CreationDate="2013-03-30T01:22:42.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll try to present both sides of the story:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tree is fully cleaned, and your sanitizer is sufactant-based (such as StarSan) so that kills organisms on contact then maybe (and only maybe) you can get away without sanitizing. That's about as far as you can guess as to the consequences of not sanitizing the brew tree. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not clean, then forget it. Each dust particle harbours enough acetobacter to make a very nice vinegar from your batch of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether it works or doesn't will very much depend upon your environment. Some people feverishly clean their equipment before and after use and store in a sealed container, some don't. If someone says it works, do you know their processes, cleaning routines? I wouldn't base any judgement other than &quot;do it, don't take chances&quot; on someone's anecdotal evidence that they successfully brewed a beer without cleaning. And how do you know the beer was up to your standard? I can smell a contaminant almost before I've lifted the class, and wouldn't take the chance at all.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, a quick spray with starsan is simple enough to do that I choose not to leave it out. Why take the chance of a waste of a day of brewing for a few seconds of additional sanitation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T01:22:42.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9666" CreationDate="2013-03-30T14:10:02.093" Score="5" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an electric burner when I home brew. It doesn't have a ton of excess power but it can get a nice rolling boil going. Occasionally, when I add malt extract to my kettle the temperature drops several degrees below boiling. It sometimes takes 5 or 10 minutes to return to an actual boil. In this case, should I pause my timer, wait for the wort to return to boil and then resume the timer, or should I just keep the timer running?  My guess is that it doesn't make much difference if the temp is 205°F or 212°F so I should just keep the timer running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3292" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T22:16:31.967" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T22:16:31.967" Title="Should I extend boil times if temperature drops?" Tags="|temperature|boil|timing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9665" CreationDate="2013-03-30T14:41:14.113" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things to consider here. Certainly slowing down your boil will change your rate of evaporation, but that's only a problem if you're having a hard time hitting your target volumes. The main consideration is your bitterness contribution from hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alpha acid isomerization, like most chemical reactions, is temperature dependent. It happens at a faster rate in hotter temperatures and at a slower rate in cooler temperatures. In the period of time during which your temperature is below boiling, the alpha acids from your hops are converting at a slower rate than they would be at a full boil. The relevant question is &lt;em&gt;how much&lt;/em&gt; slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a very, very crude rule of thumb, chemical reaction rates tend to increase by a factor of 2 for every 10ºC increase in temperature. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://pubs.acs.org/doi/pdf/10.1021/jf0481296&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, the generalization roughly holds up for hops use as well. If you are losing 7ºF (~4ºC) and then bringing it back up over the course of 10 minutes, those 10 minutes are acting more like 8.5 minutes in your hop schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the difference is not huge. For a 60 minute addition, it's negligible. If, however, you're planning to get a significant amount of your bitterness from large late additions (i.e., skipping the bitterness additions and &quot;hop bursting&quot; with several ounces of hops with ten minutes left in the boil), that minute and a half could make a more significant difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, this is just another property of your system, and every system will produce each recipe differently. Unless you're trying to calibrate your process to produce pitch-perfect clones, it's not worth worrying about this kind of stuff. If I were in your shoes, I'd just let the timer ride and then tweak recipes over time to suit my tastes. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T14:41:14.113" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9668" CreationDate="2013-03-31T21:49:36.710" Score="6" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a kegging system which came with a &quot;Camping Style&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/faucet-tubing-kit-bl-ball-lock-version.html&quot;&gt;faucet&lt;/a&gt;, essentially just some tubing with a ball lock disconnect on one end and a tiny plastic faucet on the other end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a more permanent installation (inside a barrel). Naively, I thought I just get a faucet and some tubing, but then I saw beer shanks which seem to sit between the faucet and the tube? (and how thick is the tubing in that case?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly do I need going from a 5 Gallon Ball-Lock Soda Keg into my glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2028" LastActivityDate="2013-03-31T23:19:49.380" Title="What equipment is needed for a faucet? What's a shank?" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9667" CreationDate="2013-03-31T23:19:49.380" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Images speak louder than words: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.draft-beer-made-easy.com/beershanks.html&quot;&gt;http://www.draft-beer-made-easy.com/beershanks.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put a faucet on a keg fridge, you need three main parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Faucet, this is the &quot;tap&quot;, you can get standard ones which are fairly cheap ($20 or so) or go for higher grade, such as perlicks, which are $40 or so, but use a different mechanism that prevents sticking if you don't use the tap.You can also get stout faucets, which are taller and provide creamier pours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The shank, this goes through whatever medium you are using, collar, tower, coffin, etc... and is basically a large stainless steel part normally (or a similar material) which is threaded on the outside, and has a hole through the center for beer to run through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) The tailpiece, this is normally straight, but you can get 90 degree ones too, which connect to your beer line and allow you to push the beer to the shank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Faucet normally has a specialized collar on it, you shouldn't use a normal wrench, but get a specialized faucet wrench, otherwise you'll damage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2013-03-31T23:19:49.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-02T12:00:11.377" Score="3" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm dropping my 5 year old plastic buckets and moving fermentation over to a stainless conical. One thing I'll miss is being able to visually monitor the brew as it progresses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I mount a web camera inside the conical so that it is sanitary and sealed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="2869" LastEditDate="2013-04-04T14:23:17.903" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T14:23:17.903" Title="make a new sanitary connection in stainless conical" Tags="|conical-fermenter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9669" CreationDate="2013-04-02T12:30:18.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could probably build some sort of enclosure for the camera out of clear plexiglass or something similar. Use a rubber grommet to get the cable through the wall of the plexiglass enclosure so it's water tight. You could then maybe run the cable through your blowoff if it's long enough (or just get a wireless camera!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;something like that is probably relatively easy to make and use, but I'm not sure exactly what you could do to mount it inside the fermenter. Suction cups? Is there anything you can clamp to within the vessel? Maybe put a magnet inside the box and use a magnet outside of the fermenter (AFAIK stainless is not magnetic)... it would  have to be strong and I'm not sure if it would cause any interference or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, there are probably better solutions, but that's what I'd do to keep it cheap and simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastEditorUserId="2569" LastEditDate="2013-04-02T13:28:51.233" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T13:28:51.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9669" CreationDate="2013-04-02T14:15:55.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this post and I immediately thought of medical cameras. Any kind of endoscope will be all the things you need: compact, flexible, easy to sanitize, and self-illuminating. A typical endoscope will have a camera on the end of a cable and be not much bigger than the cable itself. Purchased new, these things are very expensive, but if you watch the auction sites used lab equipment comes up all the time for astonishingly small amounts of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even use something like this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004ZWFOEQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Endoscope-Borescope-Inspection-Camera/dp/B004ZWFOEQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I can't comment on the build quality there, but it looks like it should suit your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T14:15:55.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-02T21:45:06.573" Score="6" ViewCount="1858" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of a conical fermentor compared to buckets or carboys?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T05:31:10.810" Title="Pros and cons of a conical fermentor" Tags="|fermenter|conical-fermenter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-02T21:45:06.573" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9672" CreationDate="2013-04-03T00:08:03.947" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're talking about a stainless steel conical, off the top of my head...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Technically easier to collect and harvest yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be more hygenic (less chance of scratches that can harbour yeast/bacteria)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less fragile than glass carboy (but possibly more than buckets)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's pressure rated, you can cap it towards end of fermentation for natural carbonation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looks fancier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can dump trub and cold break prior to pitching&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not jacketed and in a warmer climate, need a bigger fridge to house in for temp control&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Presumably heavier, so not as easy to move around for cleaning, etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2013-04-03T01:30:11.173" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T01:30:11.173" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-03T00:08:03.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9677" CreationDate="2013-04-03T05:33:23.967" Score="7" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;New on homebrew.SE, great forum here. Just a quick question - why shouldn't we just use weight scales to determine the OG and FG? My Hydrometer has broken and I can't be stuffed really buying a new one - assuming the accuracy of the scales is very good, why shouldn't I just use that to determine the density (and therefore the SG)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3298" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T09:11:20.353" Title="Why shouldn't we just use scales?" Tags="|specific-gravity|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9676" CreationDate="2013-04-03T07:26:09.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're talking about weighing a small sample of a known, accurate volume, it seems like you'd be able to get a ballpark idea about the SG using that method. I have no idea what the margin of error would be though. Presumably you'd need to take temperature into account as you do when using a hydromenter and possibly the amount of alcohol. For the cost of buying an accurate measuring container and maintaining the calibration of the scales, I'd personally just get a new hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T07:26:09.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9676" CreationDate="2013-04-03T11:49:22.540" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You certainly can. This is, for example, how you use a pycnometer. But, it's a bit of work. Two major problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You need to find a way to measure volume very, very precisely. The scales are reasonably accurate, but it is unlikely that you own a volumetric device accurate enough. Your SG will be screwed by an entire point for every &lt;em&gt;0.1%&lt;/em&gt; margin of error.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You need to separate your liquid wort out from your suspended solids, including trub and hop solids. These have a nearly negligible effect on hydrometers but a significant effect on pycnometers. If you have a centrifuge, this is easy to do, but otherwise it's a bit of a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's doable, but you're probably better off just keeping a spare cheap-o hydrometer around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastEditorUserId="3109" LastEditDate="2013-04-03T13:11:50.040" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T13:11:50.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9646" CreationDate="2013-04-04T00:29:47.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. How long is a typical BIAB brew day?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The time spent on a typical brew day has way too many variables to accurately gauge.  But the most typical is going to be around 4-5 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. What (if any) are the major drawbacks to using this method of brewing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell there are no drawbacks to BIAB.  It is a great way to brew beer with limited space or resources.  I average about 82-86% efficiency on my BIAB batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also don't let anyone tell you that brewing BIAB is the wrong way.  BIAB is not working up to traditional 3 vessel all-grain brewing, it is just a newer different technique for all-grain brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to just do what works best for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. How large a volume kettle am I look at to brew 5 gallon batches?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kettle volume is going to be very dependent on the types of beers you like to make.  There is a big difference in a 10.5 lb grain bill, 1.050ish beer and a 18 lb grain bill imperial recipe as far as volume needed.  There is also the decision that needs to be made on if you want to do full volume BIAB mashing or partial volume with a sparge or just adding top up water after the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give an example my last 5.5 gallon (into the fermenter) batch was 10.5 lbs of grain and my full volume mash water was 8.3 gallons.  With displacement of water by the grains I needed a mash tun volume of 9.1 gallons to hold the water and grain.  This was a 1.060 Stout recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. Any tips or tricks to getting the best efficiency out of your BIAB setup?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best advice I can give you for better efficiency is to make sure if you are buying your grain pre-crushed from the LHBS then ask them to double crush the grain.  This will allow you to get the best sugar extraction from your grain.  Stir your grain during the mash often, every 15 to 20 minutes.  Also make sure you have a well made bag to keep the flour and other particles out of your wort.  As previously mentioned, Swiss Voile is the best material I have found.  There are many people that sell pre-made custom sized bags on the HomebrewTalk forums.  Do not fear squeezing the bag like it owes you money!  Get every bit of sweet wort out of it you can!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5. Are there any changes that need to be made to the recipe in order to make the recipes &quot;work&quot;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only change you need to make to your basic All-Grain recipe kits that you find online or at your LHBS is to account for your efficiency.  If you constantly hit 70% then adjust your grain bill up to hit your gravity.  For the most part you should be able to get any kit online and just use it as is, just keep some DME on hand to up your gravity if you don't hit your numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is lots of good info on both the HomebrewTalk forums and the BIABrewer.info forums.  Check them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy the hobby/obsession!  RDWHAHB!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3301" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T00:29:47.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9676" CreationDate="2013-04-04T09:11:20.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I well understood your question, you can surely wight a know volume of wort to get the gravity. It is what I do now, until I buy a refractometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for error here are some calculation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;measuring 500ml in a graduated jar or something, may have an error of 5ml, if done with some care. That is 1% error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume a 1g error for weighing scale, that is 0.2%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making the ratio of the two the error gets added, so error will be 1.2%, that is more or less 12 gravity points. So I just figured out my method is not that precise :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T09:11:20.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9682" CreationDate="2013-04-04T12:50:25.940" Score="5" ViewCount="1220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love pop-corn (who doesn't I guess), so I think it might be used in beer during mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used them? How did it work? How should I do it? Should I expect something interesting from it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="2869" LastEditDate="2013-04-04T13:08:59.180" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T22:56:15.810" Title="Use pop-corn as an adjunct" Tags="|adjuncts|corn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9681" CreationDate="2013-04-04T13:23:37.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can mash with popped corn, it can be thought of basically as torrified corn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not, however want to get the buttery flavor that we typically associate with popcorn in your beer so make sure you use an air popper beforehand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are going to get the typical corn flavors come through, not necessarily a &quot;popcorn&quot; flavor, if that is what you are shooting for (which you shouldn't be).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as how you should do it. I would pop it first and then mash it down so that you can get most of the air out. I can only imagine trying to fit a couple pounds of popped corn into a mash...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use it how you would typically use corn in your mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-04-04T13:31:27.443" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T13:31:27.443" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9697" CreationDate="2013-04-04T13:47:05.480" Score="10" ViewCount="24219" Body="&lt;p&gt;How should I proceed to make a good malt vinegar. In particular I would like some recipe to know what grains (or extract) I need to use, to have a really good vinegar, not just something that is sour, since it can be bought for less than a dollar at the supermarket :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="2869" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T08:59:34.380" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T05:05:46.957" Title="How to make malt vinegar" Tags="|vinegar|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9685" CreationDate="2013-04-04T14:44:53.583" Score="1" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I transferred my American Ale from primary to secondary after 10/11 days. I guess fermentation is pretty much complete. I might be going away for 3 weeks and so I didnt want the beer sitting in the primary for that long since I wont have time for bottling. After reading this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/88/if-when-to-move-to-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;If/When to move to secondary fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering how likely it is that I have gotten some off flavors from oxidation? The second fermenter 30 liters with 23/24 liters of beer and so there is a good amount of oxygen inside but I was careful not to splash the beer during transfer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T14:50:24.250" Title="How likely to get off flavors from American Ale transferring to secondary?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9684" CreationDate="2013-04-04T14:50:24.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you practiced good siphoning technique and minimized splashing of the beer I think you should be just fine. I personally rack most of my beers to secondary (This isn't actually considered &quot;Best Practice&quot; anymore) because I dnjoy really clear beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never experienced the effects of oxidization but am very careful to let the fluid drain along the side of my container until the level is high enough I can submerge the end of my siphon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your secondary container has as little head space as possible to help minimize oxidization as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The post you references has this quote &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Autolysis (the process by which yeast break down and die) isn't really a problem for homebrewers, unless you're keeping your beer on the yeast cake for many months to years&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping your beer in primary for over 3 weeks is really pushing it in my opinion. Sure some people may have success but its not a good practice. It is definitely possible for a beer which has sat on primary for over 3 weeks to see some effect of autolysis. I would rather rack my beer then risk autolysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T14:50:24.250" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9683" CreationDate="2013-04-04T15:54:15.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first batch ever was the brewers best english brown ale kit (extract). At some point it became infected and went sour. I let the bottles sit to see if it would age out (didn't know any better at the time) and the whole batch slowly turned in to carbonated vinegar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used it for pulled pork and it has worked wonders on it. I still have some left and plan on using it for a pig roast that I'm doing at the end of the month. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the Brewers Best English Brown Ale Extract Kit makes a wonderful vinegar for pork. Ferment it out and hit it with some Acetobacter and it will go great with your summer BBQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.org/Brewers-Best-English-Brown-Ale_p_204.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewing.org/Brewers-Best-English-Brown-Ale_p_204.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T15:54:15.923" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9688" CreationDate="2013-04-05T12:38:55.427" Score="1" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to brew a wide variety of beers (both 2.5 &amp;amp; 5 gallon batches depending on style) in a shortish time span in order to serve at a family reunion in the summer, and now it looks like I may have fallen victim to my own poor planning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to keep up the brew schedule I had planned for this spring, I need to either free up my one and only 3G carboy, or convert the recipes that were slated to be 2.5G back to 5 so I can use my larger fermentors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to keep the 2.5G batches as they were planned, but I suddenly realized that I need long enough secondary time to clear up the tripel that's in there now, or racking over was a waste of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can age in bottles for the purpose of flavor profile, but is there any way to estimate how long is 'just long enough' to make a noticeable difference in clarity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the last year or so we've been simply using common sense to check this kind of stuff (not clear yet? sample and move on), but if it's going to impact my brewing schedule, then I need to make alternate plans (probably just buying another 3G carboy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;/ramble&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2617" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T16:22:13.507" Title="How foolish is it to try to make up for my tripel's shortish secondary by bottle conditioning it longer?" Tags="|secondary|conditioning|aging|belgian|clarification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9687" CreationDate="2013-04-05T13:30:08.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 3 Gallon Carboy is $20 USD i think. I would much rather let my beer condition the proper length of time then be dissatisfied with the end product. After all about $20ish worth of materials probably went into the beer no?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to bottle conditioning vs secondary conditioning. While yes you can simply condition in the bottles you will be waiting longer and your flavor profile will not be the same as if you had conditioned it properly, especially with a big beer like a Tripel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T13:30:08.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9687" CreationDate="2013-04-05T16:22:13.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no reason you can't ferment a 2.5 gal. batch in a 5 gal. gal. carboy, at least through 3-4 weeks of primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T16:22:13.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9698" CreationDate="2013-04-05T21:46:42.677" Score="1" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm preparing to bottle a 30 pint batch of Ginger Beer. It started at 1.041 and has finished at a steady 1.008 after 2 weeks or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I siphoned one bottle's worth earlier into a 500ml flip-top, and added one Coopers priming drop. After about 1 hour the drop had dissolved but I could see it sat in a sugary cloud at the bottom. Will it mix / convert naturally? It's at 18°C right now inside an empty tub incase it explodes :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T14:59:37.317" Title="Priming sugar/drop mixing worry, in a test bottling" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|priming-sugar|timing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9693" CreationDate="2013-04-05T21:51:26.537" Score="1" ViewCount="12524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've test bottled one 500ml bottle of Ginger Beer with one Coopers priming drop. How long does priming take? If I opened it in a day would it have some pressure/fizz/gas or does it need a week or so? I want to ascertain if one drop was enough as I don't trust the terrible instructions' rough 'heaped teaspoon' amount; seems far too inexact to me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T13:47:02.270" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T13:47:02.270" Title="How long does bottle priming take? (Ginger Beer)" Tags="|priming-sugar|ginger-beer|timing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9696" CreationDate="2013-04-05T21:56:00.897" Score="2" ViewCount="834" Body="&lt;p&gt;When sanitising and using a bottle tree, should I wait for bottles to dry completely or can I use them just rinsed? The Youngs sanitiser I'm using says items should be used within 1 hour of being cleaned. There's no way - at UK temps - that they will air-dry in an hour!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T23:33:22.340" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T10:21:15.593" Title="Bottle drying after sanitisation?" Tags="|equipment|sanitation|bottles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9691" CreationDate="2013-04-05T23:00:12.677" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottle priming takes typically 2 weeks, depending upon temperature and yeast health. The bottles should initially be stored at room temperature so the yeast can produce CO2 from the priming sugar, which takes 2-3 days. If you opened the bottle then, you'd get a loud hiss and flat beer, since all the CO2 is in the headspace. After the CO2 is produced, it needs time to dissolve into the beer. This takes about 10 days, so 14 days total is typical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T23:00:12.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9723" CreationDate="2013-04-05T23:52:12.273" Score="4" ViewCount="6418" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my third all-grain batch last weekend. I have had issues getting decent efficiency so I added a couple extra pounds of ESB malted barley (11lbs, instead of 9, and about 3lbs of specialty grain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mash was 154F (167 strike, 17 quarts), and I let it sit for an hour before draining. I batch sparged with 185F water (was 170F, 18 quarts), and let it sit for 20 minutes before draining into my pot. I use a cooler, and there was very little movement on the temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the wort that came out of the mash tun was about 1.025 on the hydrometer. I got about 7.5 gallons out, and it boiled down to be about 5 gallons, so I am guessing it was about 1.037 post-boil (I didn't take a reading). The recipe called for a 1.053&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The airlock started bubbling about 36 hours later, but it slowed down quickly. I am guessing there wasn't enough sugar from my extraction to keep it going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So.... what are my choices? It's been in the primary for about 5 days now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking I could do what I do for a saison, and boil up some amber rock-candy sugar, but how much? I also have some amber DME, but that seems a bit riskier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, my beer-in-a-bag landed at 1.090, so I must have done something right there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions welcome. Let me know if I haven't provided all the needed information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;David.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3297" LastEditorUserId="3297" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T16:22:42.900" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T16:22:42.900" Title="How can I fix low starting gravity?" Tags="|beer|original-gravity|efficiency|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9690" CreationDate="2013-04-06T03:04:07.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will eventually get to a state where the sugar is evenly distributed, but there's nothing stopping from you helping it get there. Gently turn the bottle upside down, then right-side up. Repeat a couple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T03:04:07.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9692" CreationDate="2013-04-06T10:21:15.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should probably try to find out what is in your Young's sanitizer. Do they claim it is a 'no-rinse' sanitizer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, go ahead and bottle in the still wet bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, you could boil some water and use that water to rinse (hard work)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually use Iodophor, which is a non-rinse in the proper concentration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the few times I used something that I didn't want in contact with my beer, I went against common sense and used plain tap water (which is pretty clean in Finland). Didn't have any issues in my bottled beer so far, but can't really recommend that approach. Be safe and boil your rinse water   :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T10:21:15.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9683" CreationDate="2013-04-06T12:23:23.690" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2010/02/making-maltbeer-vinegar.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mad Fermentationist&lt;/a&gt; has a good write-up on making malt vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some interesting points from the article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;oxygen is key to the process so you don't want to use an airlock. A cheesecoth, or a coffee-filter over the neck of the carboy work well to keep bugs and dust out but let oxygen in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;vinegar can be made from the acetobacter in the air, but this may take longer. A vinegar mother can be bought to speed this process. While the vinegar is being fermented, the mother floats to the top to take in oxygen, ferments the ethanol into acetic acid, and then sinks to the bottom when finished.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T12:35:16.717" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T12:35:16.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9690" CreationDate="2013-04-06T14:59:37.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just leave it. The headspace is full of oxygen - even a gentle shake is enough to increase oxygen absorbtion into the beer. I would simply leave the beer standing as it is, which exposes the smallest surface area to oxygen. Oxygen uptake leads to sherry/cardboard flavours later, or just generally dulling of the beer flavor and faster staling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast will be distributed throughout the beer, or may settle to the bottom, depending upon if they were dormant when you racked the beer. Either way, with the sugar at the bottom, there is yeast where there is sugar and they will consume it - and there is always far more yeast than you need. During fermentation you have over a million yeast cells per ml of beer - for bottling you only need 10,000 cells/ml - a drop in cell density of 100 fold. Unless you filter, there is always more than this  present at bottling time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, no need to worry about it. Just drop in the coopers drop and leave for 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T14:59:37.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9714" CreationDate="2013-04-06T16:07:45.767" Score="3" ViewCount="1210" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits of no chill brewing? Are there downsides to the method? I am Specifically thinking of the no chill cubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T12:07:41.080" Title="No chill brewing" Tags="|chilling|no-chill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9705" CreationDate="2013-04-06T16:10:20.043" Score="3" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;What material do the cubes need to be made of? is there a worry about the plastic of the cubes leeching into the hot wort after X number of uses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-06T18:53:52.493" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T02:06:43.203" Title="No chill cubes - which material?" Tags="|chilling|no-chill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9706" CreationDate="2013-04-06T16:13:08.833" Score="3" ViewCount="591" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long can I store the wort in the no chill cube? Does it need to be used as soon as its cooled down or relatively quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T02:09:16.743" Title="No chill cubes storage" Tags="|chilling|no-chill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6760" CreationDate="2013-04-06T17:40:42.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a copper wort-chiller as well, but before I had it, I used ice to cool my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would sterilize Pyrex glass containers, and put boiled-and-cooled water in them, and into the freezer a few days before brewing. I would put the pot in a sink full of cold water, and put the ice from the container into the pot (not the whole container).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just topped the beer up a bit less when it went into the primary fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have a wort-chiller, you could drop one in once the temp hits 90F to speed up the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this, don't use large Pyrex containers. The water freezes at the edges of the container first, and the center last. When the center freezes, it pushes in all directions, not just up; all the ice expands, and breaks your container. I've broken 1-litre Mason jars this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3297" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T17:40:42.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9699" CreationDate="2013-04-06T23:51:27.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The benefit is that you don't have to chill the wort with an immersion chiller or cold bath. You can set it in the cube and leave it to reach pitching temp. The downside is that you have another vessel to clean and some people worry about the effect of not chilling your wort. Most people like the effect of cold break, but this is a new method so it's bound to be controversial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see you've asked a few questions on this topic. As far as how long can you leave it, I wouldn't go past pitching the next day. The cleanliness of your equipment may vary, and every day you don't pitch is another day another organism can colonize your batch. For materials, the Australians say the use Jerry cans. I think you need a material that can withstand the heat and not leach into the beer. I'm sure a simple search will yield something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2711" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T23:51:27.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7792" CreationDate="2013-04-07T02:03:49.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Man, don't boil your honey, what are you doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cook all the good enzymes and nutrients right out of it and a lot of the&#xA;flavor too. Basically wasting all that nice farmers market honey, you might as&#xA;well go get the cheap corn syrup honey from superstore if you're &#xA;boiling your honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honey is naturally antiseptic. Simply steep your honey into the must after boiling&#xA;and remove from heat, then cool immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stronger the better also, anything over 9–10% and you have no worries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3309" LastEditorUserId="192" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T23:58:48.780" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T23:58:48.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9700" CreationDate="2013-04-07T02:06:43.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastics are a very controversial issue, and it is unlikely that we'll have a clear consensus on longterm safety anytime soon. Some plastics are unambiguously unfit for food use (especially at high temperatures), while others are likely fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the safest plastic container for no chill brewing would be a HDPE without plasticizers. If you can get this, make sure it is food safe and heat safe. The jerry cans used by most no-chillers fit these requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T02:06:43.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9701" CreationDate="2013-04-07T02:09:16.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It comes down to your sanitation and process. You want to be filling those cubes &lt;strong&gt;hot&lt;/strong&gt;. This means above 190ºF. This will, to a significant degree, sanitize the inside of the container and ensure that you'll be able to store it for a reasonable period of time. Many no chill brewers go for weeks or even months before pitching yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T02:09:16.743" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5964" CreationDate="2013-04-07T04:29:12.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use something called a &quot;china cap strainer&quot; to strain my wort before it goes into the fermentor. These things work greater, as it fits into the funnel I use on top of the fermentor and they have a good handle to jostle the strainer to encourage the wort to work it's way past the captured hops and trub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a &quot;china cap strainer&quot; can be seen here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.webstaurantstore.com/12-fine-china-cap-strainer/407S5012F.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.webstaurantstore.com/12-fine-china-cap-strainer/407S5012F.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you live in an area with a significant Asian population, you can find these things in a store that sells Asian cooking ware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2830" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T04:29:12.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-07T09:31:08.687" Score="3" ViewCount="4594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently did two ale brews in two separate fermenters and in both cases my airlocks got sediment in them, which then dried in. I can't find a way to clean out these airlocks, as I can't get around the bend with a brush. I've tried soaking them in boiling water but it hasn't helped. Is there anyway to clean these out or should I just give up and buy new ones? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2281" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T16:37:42.443" Title="Best way to clean an airlock" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9709" CreationDate="2013-04-07T13:07:14.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to get some brewery cleaner, like Oxiclean or PBW. Make up a solution with hot water, soak the airlock in that overnight and the gunk will detach itself from the sides and can be flushed out with clean water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T13:07:14.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9709" CreationDate="2013-04-07T16:37:42.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also use bleach, if you don't have access to either of the cleaners mdma suggested. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use between 4 and 16ml of bleach in 1 liter of water and let it soak until the gunk disappears (usually doesn't take more than 24h).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should buy the cheapest bleach you can find (supermarket brands are good), so they will have no additives for aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra: At the 4ml per liter concentration, bleach is a non-rinse sanitizer (kills in 20 min) but most brewers still prefer to take no risks and rinse with boiled water anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T16:37:42.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4013" CreationDate="2013-04-08T09:46:30.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, leaving hops in for a short time gives aroma, a medium time gives fruit and a long time gives vegetal/grass flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When high quality jasmine tea is made, fresh flowers are mixed with the tea and left for a day, before being extracted and more fresh flowers added.  This process is repeated several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3313" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T09:46:30.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9715" CreationDate="2013-04-08T10:50:14.177" Score="3" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I know there were lots of things I could have done to repair the situation had I been prepared (lesson learned, I'll be having DME on hand from here on out), but I'm a little more interested in what might have caused the problem and how I might prevent it in future all grain brews.  Anyway, here's the grain bill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;10lbs Maris Otter&#xA;3 lbs Rye&#xA;1 lb Crystal Rye&#xA;8 oz. Rice Hulls&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dough-in was at 167 degrees with 4.5 gallons, and I hit my target mash temp of 153 right on the dot.  Held with a loss of one degree through the entire hour-long mash.  It took three vorlauf to clear and then I drained the first runnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something weird &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; happen here.  At first, I thought I was stuck, when the wort stopped draining at maybe 2 gallons.  Opened the tun cut the grain bed a bit and it really looked like my grain had absorbed most of the water.  So, I figured, sparge time.  I don't have any grades on my brew kettle, but I think I had maybe 2.5 gallons, tops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had my 4 gallons of sparge water at 175 and started batching in immediately.  I stirred, let the sparge water sit for about fifteen minutes, and then began sparging.  The second runnings were extremely light, way lighter than the original wort.  I've had that happen before, but the color change was never quite this dramatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, sparge finished and I had about 6 gallons in the kettle.  Probably should have measured gravity then (not that I could have done anything about it), but I started the boil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After boil and cooling, I had 3.5 gallons of wort at 1.053.  OG should have been 1.072 and I should have had 5.5 gallons post boil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What in the world did I do wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3314" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T12:44:11.143" Title="Missed my target gravity and volume by a mile" Tags="|mash|all-grain|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9699" CreationDate="2013-04-08T12:07:41.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The downsides as far as I can see are (in descending order of severity)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Possible toxicity of the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Recipe alterations due to the continued elevated temps after the boil is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Risk for contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now, the current thinking is that &quot;food safe&quot;, &quot;heat resistant&quot; HDPE plastics are OK for No Chilling. I am personally content enough with this theory to go ahead and do No Chill, but we should definitely recognize that the science of plastics is still evolving, especially in the area of human toxicity. If it makes you too nervous, you can experiment with No Chilling in metal corny kegs, I've heard of a lot of guys doing that (with mixed results, however). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lack of a sharp temp drop at the end of the boil means that all your recipes will have to be adjusted. I have experimented with this many times, and am still not convinced of how to accurately replicate 15min-to-flameout additions. I tend to not brew a lot of hoppy styles, so its not an issue for me, but if you are an all-IPA brewer, perhaps No Chill is not for you. YMMV though, as I see a lot of guys claiming to brew really hoppy beers with No Chill all the time, I just haven't personally perfected it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there is a risk of contamination in a No Chill vessel if (a) the vessel gets compromised somehow (bad lid, leaky seal, etc), or if you waited too long to pour the hot wort into the tank and it failed to 100% pasteurize the vessel. I lost 2 batches to what I believe was a faulty seal in the lid of my main No Chill vessel last year. The first one was just sorta funky at pitching time, the second one swoll the tank up like a tick about 2 days after brewing. It was probably near to rupturing when I dumped it. If your tank swells at all, or if the wort doesn't smell perfect when you open the tank, don't bother fermenting it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T12:07:41.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9713" CreationDate="2013-04-08T12:44:11.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's something fishy about your numbers here. For example, to get a OG of 1.072 with your grain bill I need to assume 80% efficiency. Is that what you're used to getting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the source of your problem, it could be any number of things and right now we're only going to be able to guess. If in the future you take gravity readings throughout the process (first runnings, sparge runnings, kettle gravity, etc.) there's far more diagnostic work that we can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure your water measurements were correct? Have you changed anything about your grain supplier or crush?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T12:44:11.143" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9717" CreationDate="2013-04-08T14:30:43.487" Score="1" ViewCount="3361" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaving aside the risk the fermentation is not completed and possible bottle bombing. &#xA;I have made some amber or brown ales, about 1.040 1.050 OG. After a week I bottle it and start drinking after 7-10 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I rushing things? What are the disadvantages and beer flaws that this timing can cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T22:14:34.067" Title="Am I bottling too quick?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9716" CreationDate="2013-04-08T15:02:55.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary thing you miss out on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conditioning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, its important to note that beer does not simply create ethanol and co2 while in primary fermentation. There are a lot of byproducts that are produced in the crazy feeding frenzy that happens the first few days after pitching. The yeast need time to &quot;clean up&quot; after themselves once primary fermentation is complete. Once the &quot;easy&quot; food of fermentable sugars have been eaten the yeast turn to other harder to digest substances. How to Brew lists some of the substances that can be present in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acetaldehyde&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Esters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amino acids&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fusel Alcohols&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diacetyl&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pentanedione&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dimethyl sulfide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bottle right away you miss out on this cleanup phase and will most definitely not have as good a beer as you could. The beer may be good enough for your taste but its definitely not as good as it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I never drink a beer until its sat for at least 3 weeks in primary and bottle conditioned for another 3. Its a long time to wait but I'm never dissatisfied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T15:09:34.877" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T15:09:34.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9720" CreationDate="2013-04-08T15:21:35.013" Score="6" ViewCount="4081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to this all, and just bought a noob-starter-kit. I'm using a can for my first brew (to learn the basics)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I just started the brew (Coopers Real Ale) a few days ago. I'm keeping the fermenter in an outside room, and am popping in to check on things daily. Yesterday, I went in early evening to find that my airlock was almost completely dry (little bit of liquid pooled at the bottom of one of the bends, but not creating an air-lock at all), and what was clearly some drip marks from brew splashing out the top of the airlock at some point. Of course, I quickly topped it up again. I had previously checked the airlock a little earlier the previous day (so, maybe 30 hours before), and it was still completely fine then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, now am stressing a bit about possible problems from it. Should I be worried about the risk of contamination? My airlock is a little grubby now too, should I try clean it out (or just leave it) It &lt;em&gt;seemed&lt;/em&gt; like, because of the ongoing reaction inside the fermenter, there was still a positive (albeit gentle) pressure which I'm hoping was keeping air out, but I just don't know...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3304" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T14:16:25.817" Title="airlock ran dry, should I be concerned?" Tags="|fermenter|airlock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9724" CreationDate="2013-04-08T15:26:47.943" Score="14" ViewCount="14937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just started making my first brew, and am using vodka in the airlock, but am hoping for some more detailed info about what is best practice, or if there is not really any difference between using water, vodka, or other things I haven't thought or heard of...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also, does the quality of the vodka count? (As in, cheap vodka has a, er, particular taste - if that ends up in the fermenter, how much will it affect the brew taste?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3304" LastActivityDate="2020-02-23T23:13:44.197" Title="Airlock: vodka, water, or" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9718" CreationDate="2013-04-08T15:29:20.283" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be just fine. Some breweries still practice open air fermentation and the practice of 100% airlocking your beer is &lt;em&gt;relatively&lt;/em&gt; new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water in the airlock will prevent bugs and oxygen from getting into your beer, without the water it would still be difficult for an environmental contaminant to get through the airlock. So unless a bug managed to crawl in and die you are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Welcome to home brewing, Relax don't worry have a homebrew (or regular beer since this is your first kit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T14:16:25.817" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T14:16:25.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9719" CreationDate="2013-04-08T15:32:36.857" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally use the starsan sanitizer that's left over from brewing that day, However, its just an extra precaution to kill anything that MAY get in the airlock. Vodka is the same principal, but relying on alcohol to do the killing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, cheap vs expensive vodka doesn't matter in regards to airlocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it gets pulled into your brew there would most likely be no discernible change in flavor being as its such a small amount of liquid anyhow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T14:12:56.707" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T14:12:56.707" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9694" CreationDate="2013-04-08T20:06:04.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could add enough DME to offset the lower than expected starting gravity. However, you run a couple of risks by doing so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Contamination. You'll want to boil the DME in a small amount of water to ensure any foreign organisms are dead. Cool it to room temperature before adding to the fermenter.  Also, sanitize everything that comes in contact with the cooled DME solution and the fermented wort.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oxidation. You'll need to stir the dissolved DME into fermented wort. No matter how careful you are, you'll be introducing some oxygen. This may cause your beer to stale faster than normal, and may even introduce off flavors (often described as &quot;wet cardboard&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could just accept that the beer you made is not the beer you intended to make. It will be lower alcohol for one thing. Also, the bitterness to original gravity ratio will be much higher. The original recipe targetted an IBU:GU of 2:3, which is near the top-end for a pale ale, or the bottom end for an IPA. The actual ratio is closer to 1:1, which is at the top end of the IPA range and getting close to an IIPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I'd taste the beer as it stands now and decide if I could live with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T20:06:04.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9719" CreationDate="2013-04-08T20:08:32.417" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use water, vodka or starsan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of the liquid in the airlock is to prevent gas transfer into the carboy, keeping out floating contaminants, like bacteria and wild yeast, and to also provide a deterrent for bugs like fruit flies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't overfill the airlock, then there is no chance of suckback. But if you want to be cautious, then using vodka or starsan will ensure nothing contaminated enters the beer if the liquid is sucked back into the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T20:37:45.980" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T20:37:45.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9716" CreationDate="2013-04-08T20:13:02.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most would settle for the extra week. But if you're in a hurry, primary could easily be complete after a week, so you're not bottling too early. However, drinking 7-10 day after bottling is on the early side - the beer may not even be fully carbonated at that time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheat beers are best consumed early, as are beer with a strong hop aroma, so drinking early may in fact be a benefit. If you use temperature control with adequate pitching rates, you can reduce the amounts of esters, diacetyl and other undesirables that normally need weeks of conditioning to remove. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T22:14:34.067" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T22:14:34.067" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9728" CreationDate="2013-04-09T00:45:46.683" Score="3" ViewCount="5356" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt; Recipe Specifications&#xA;&amp;gt; -------------------------- &#xA;&amp;gt; Boil Size: 7.37 gal Post Boil Volume: 6.38 gal Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal    Bottling Volume: 5.50 gal&#xA;&amp;gt; Estimated OG: 1.037 SG Estimated Color: 22.8 SRM Estimated IBU: 21.3&#xA;&amp;gt; IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 % Est Mash Efficiency: 81.9 % Boil&#xA;&amp;gt; Time: 60 Minutes&#xA;&amp;gt; &#xA;&amp;gt; Ingredients:&#xA;&amp;gt; ------------ &#xA;&amp;gt; Amt                   Name                                     Type          #        %/IBU          &#xA;&amp;gt; 4 lbs 8.0 oz          Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM)         Grain         1        62.1 %  &#xA;&amp;gt; 1 lbs                 Brown Malt (65.0 SRM)                    Grain         2        13.8 %        &#xA;&amp;gt; 12.0 oz               Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM)   Grain         3        10.3 %        &#xA;&amp;gt; 2.0 oz                Carafa III (525.0 SRM)                   Grain         4        1.7 %         &#xA;&amp;gt; 2.0 oz                Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM)               Grain         5        1.7 %         &#xA;&amp;gt; 12.0 oz               Invert Sugar #3 (65.0 SRM)               Sugar         6        10.3 %        &#xA;&amp;gt; 1.00 oz               Goldings, East Kent [5.80 %] - Boil 60.0 Hop           7        21.3 IBUs     &#xA;&amp;gt; 1.0 pkg               London ESB Ale (Wyeast Labs #1968) [124. Yeast         8        -             &#xA;&amp;gt; &#xA;&amp;gt; &#xA;&amp;gt; Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Full Body, Batch Sparge Total Grain&#xA;&amp;gt; Weight: 7 lbs 4.0 oz&#xA;&amp;gt; ---------------------------- &#xA;&amp;gt; Name              Description                             Step Temperat Step Time      &#xA;&amp;gt; Mash In           Add 9.75 qt of water at 164.0 F         154.0 F       60 min        &#xA;&amp;gt; &#xA;&amp;gt; Sparge: Batch sparge with 2 steps (2.09gal, 3.75gal) of 168.0 F water&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final gravity is 1.014, giving an apparent attenuation of 65%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation was done at ambient basement temperature -- around 62 F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After four days of fermentation, I racked the beer off the yeast even though the krausen had not yet fallen. SG was 1.015 and the beer was crystal clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried a couple things to remedy the low attenuation. First I re-pitched a quarter cup of 1968 slurry thinking that perhaps I'd removed the beer from the yeast too early. This had no effect. Thinking that maybe the high flocculation yeast was the problem, I pitched a packet of Nottingham dry yeast. Again, no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to conclude that there is something about the recipe that caused the low attenuation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The invert sugar is home-made. I heated a sugar solution to 204 F. and held it there for 20 minutes. I then mixed in blackstrap molasses (20 grams to 480 grams of sugar) for colour and flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My notes show that I hit my mash temperature of 154 F almost exactly, and after 60 minutes the temperature had dropped by 3 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crystal only comprised 10% of the grain bill. I'd expect it to raise the FG somewhat, but 65% attenuation when 10% of the fermentatables are sugar is a bit ridiculous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to drink the beer as is. It's mighty tasty if a bit too sweet. My concern is that I'm going to make and ESB with a similar grain bill and don't want the same attenuation problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T21:03:46.147" Title="Why is my attenuation so low?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|attenuation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9726" CreationDate="2013-04-09T01:09:37.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a pH meter, I suggest checking the pH. With a beer this small, it's very possible the grain wasn't sufficient to bring the pH down to levels the yeast agreed with. And seeing your target OG was low and 37% of your malt bill is grain that's already converted, it's possible that you wouldn't have noticed a big dip in efficiency. This would explain the failure of the Nottingham to take off as well. Between 4-4.5pH is expected in finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastEditorUserId="3315" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T01:20:49.370" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T01:20:49.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9726" CreationDate="2013-04-09T01:10:16.510" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wyeast 1968 is not a high attenuator to begin with - 67-71%, and has a temperature range of 64-72F (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your temperature of 62F is the main culprit, especially if it's fluctuating, although there are other factors that contribute to the low attenuation. There are several changes you might consider next time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;since you're using an English strain, let it show it's true colors by giving it some warmth! 62F is too cold for this yeast - you want to be at least 64, preferably 66 or 68F. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you can't increase the temperature, then increase the pitching rate to help get in the upper range of attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;reduce the crystal to 5%&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;consider mashing at 152F to produce a more fermentable wort&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your invert sugar is not likely to be the problem, although including simple sugars can make the yeast less inclined to ferment the maltriose, further decreasing attenuation. (At best, ale yeasts only ferment up to 1/3 of the available &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/701/whats-a-good-breakdown-of-all-the-sugars-in-regards-to-brewing&quot;&gt;maltriose&lt;/a&gt;, which typically constitutes 15% of the sugars, low attenuating strains even less.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think temperature is the main cause, but these other points also contribute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T21:03:46.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9729" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-04-09T09:50:19.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Young's Home Brew are based in the Midlands, UK. They supply kits and equipment for Wine, Beer and Cider making. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youngshomebrew.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Young's Website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T10:08:41.993" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T10:08:41.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9730" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-04-09T09:50:19.753" Score="0" Body="Young's are a UK based equipment and ingredients supplier for the Home Brew market." OwnerUserId="3215" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T09:55:24.257" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T09:55:24.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9738" CreationDate="2013-04-09T15:50:41.273" Score="3" ViewCount="1577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really wasn't ready to do a lager, but I wanted to do a Bock, so I requested California Lager yeast.  My supplier failed to make the substitution and sent me home with Wyeast 2124 Bohemian Lager.  I was snowed in and the temperature in my garage would be around 40°-50° for a couple weeks, so I decided to roll with it.  After two weeks of fermentation at 42-48°F, it started getting warmer (~52°F).  After about 2 days at that temp I decided to take a gravity reading, and found that I was sitting at 1.015.  I tasted it and it wasn't too bad, but there was a hint of diacetyl (totally drinkable in my mind).  I gave a sample to my wife and asked her to describe the taste...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wife: &quot;Tastes like a hamburger&quot;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Me: &quot;A hamburger?&quot;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Wife: &quot;Yeah, like a Sonic hamburger.&quot;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Me: &quot;Like, buttery?&quot;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Wife: &quot;Yeah, like a buttery hamburger.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://rebelbrewer.com/shop/lager-yeast/bohemian-lager-yeast-wyeast-2124/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that it said this yeast benefits &quot;from diacetyl rest at 58°F (14°C) for 24 hours after fermentation is complete&quot;.  Great, I thought, my fermentation is complete, so I'll bring it up to 58 and let it sit for a day and see if that helps.  It's been about 12 hours, but I'm a little nervous that the warmer temp will make the problem worse, and I've been reading that I should've done a d-rest much sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do in this scenario?  Wait another 12 hours and bottle?  12 hours then lager in the fridge? Bottle then condition in the fridge?  Cool the fermenter back down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also looked at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/krausening.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;krausening&lt;/a&gt;, but that seems like a lot of effort on what may be a tight timeline. Any thoughts on that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3282" LastEditorUserId="3282" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T16:01:26.850" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T17:19:01.110" Title="Wyeast 2124 Bohemian Lager for Bock - too late for diacetyl rest?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|lager|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9731" CreationDate="2013-04-09T16:07:43.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottom cropping yeasts are easier to rouse out of dormancy with higher temps than top cropping yeasts.  I'd say that, even now, warming the fermenter up to 58 for the diacetyl rest would be totally appropriate and doable.  I don't know that the time component is really important, unless it'd been so long that all the yeast was dead, and I don't think that's the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if I can add to this whole discussion: do you bottle?  I bottle, and I've noticed that bottle conditioning at room temps for a couple of weeks (or just two or so days for the lagers) serves perfectly well in place of a &quot;traditional&quot; diacetyl rest, before cold crashing everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, @mdma, a Sonic is a fast food chain in the States.  Their hamburgers are, you know, ok. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3314" LastEditorUserId="3314" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T17:05:47.827" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T17:05:47.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9734" CreationDate="2013-04-09T16:30:16.410" Score="3" ViewCount="1456" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I convert US gravity points? If, for example, a pound per gallon of sugar gives 46 gravity points (1.046 OG), how can I calcualate the corresponding value when 1kg of sugar is added to 10l of whater?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T20:57:07.320" Title="Convert US to metric gravity points" Tags="|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9733" CreationDate="2013-04-09T16:37:37.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do it by multiplying the ratios of the imperial/English units to metric units:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 kg is 2.204 lb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10l is 2.641 gal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To convert from pounds per gallon to kilos/decaliter you multiply by 2.204/2.641 = 0.834&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is then &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;46*0.834 = &lt;strong&gt;38.4 points&lt;/strong&gt; per kilo/10 l. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I always find these things confusing with &quot;cascaded&quot; ratios - points per pound per gallon, what is it in points per kilo per decaliter - do I multiply or divide? By kilos-to-pounds or pounds-to-kilos etc..?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I try to see through the muddle is that I take each unit at a time. Taking the weight first - imagine changing the unit from pounds to kilos, by just substituting the units and keeping the same quantity we would be using over twice as much substance (actually 2.204 times as much), so we expect the final points value to be 2.204 times bigger. Hence the initial multiplication.  And then the change in liquid volume - from gallons to decaliters. Here, we are diluting in much more water, so we expect the value to be smaller - smaller by the ratio of the dilution - hence the division by gal/decaliter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T20:57:07.320" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T20:57:07.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9736" CreationDate="2013-04-10T16:30:44.987" Score="5" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it is well understood in the brewing community that oxygen absorbing caps exist and are readily available.  I don't keep any on-hand since my brews tend to be consumed rather quickly and are rarely in the ABV range best suited for aging.  After what length of time in the bottle do the effects of oxygenation become apparent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this differ based on factors such as IBU, ABV, and storage temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3245" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T16:48:02.900" Title="How long after bottling will the effects of oxygenation become apparent?" Tags="|bottles|oxygenation|bottle|caps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9735" CreationDate="2013-04-10T16:48:02.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very much temperature dependent. In an episode of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/475&quot;&gt;brewstrong&lt;/a&gt;, Charlie Bamforth mentions that the rate of oxidization is proportional to temperature, and increases 3 fold for each temperature increase of 10°C/18°F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if your beer is stored at 4°C (39°F), it will oxidize 9 times slower than if it's stored at 24°C (75°F). Loosely speaking, if it takes 9 months to oxidize in the fridge, it would take just 1 month in a warm room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking also introduces a lot of oxygen, unless you do a closed transfer with CO2, so it's best to store the beer cold if you think it will still be around for more than a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T16:48:02.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2013-04-10T16:56:34.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's entirely subjective.  When I upgraded from my 5G pot to a 10G and started doing full-volume boils, I replaced my turkey fryer with an &quot;outdoor cooker&quot; burner.  I can get 6.5G of water to a boil about as fast as I could 3.5G with my old pot/burner, and my new burner has a wind screen so I don't have to relight if the wind kicks up.  I'm sure my new burner isn't as sturdy as a Blichmann, but it's strong enough for me to stand on, so I'm not too concerned about that.  It's also fairly noisy, probably more so than a Blichmann (although I've never heard a Blichmann, so I can't say).  It &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; half the price of the Blichmann, though, so since I didn't see any obvious deficiencies in it, it was hard to justify spending twice as much.  I'm sure you get your money's worth when buying a Blichmann, but whether it's &quot;worth it&quot; is entirely up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T16:56:34.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9731" CreationDate="2013-04-10T17:19:01.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The warmer temperature should not make this problem worse. I'd let it sit for up to 48 hours and taste it again. I wouldn't bottle yet. Bottling (and conditioning in general) helps many beers but you'll waste 12 ounces at a time just to taste if you bottle it now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T17:19:01.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9742" CreationDate="2013-04-10T18:27:14.837" Score="1" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my coffin style keezer all set up. I did the calculations to get a &quot;balanced&quot; system at a normal 12 PSI of pressure. This gave me 7 feet of 1/4&quot; hose. Apparently my math was a little wrong, or something, because it seems like it still comes out a bit fast and can cause a bit of foaming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell, there are the following solutions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run longer line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;run a &quot;choker&quot; line near the shank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find an inline restrictor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't want to run longer lines, one that actually would be expensive since I have 4 taps, and it is already getting a little cluttered with the length of hosing I have&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could do a choker line, I just need to find the right fittings. I would have to ask if I ran a choker line right before it gets to my tailpiece (which is for 1/4&quot; tubing, but I think with some heat I could make it fit snug) would that cause foaming as it would go from 1/4&quot; down to 3/16 then back up technically for the tail piece which is 1/4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, it would be nice to be able to just add an in-line resistor of some sort. Has anyone had any luck with these? Has anyone found them anywhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2266" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T22:02:59.737" Title="tap line resistor" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9739" CreationDate="2013-04-10T18:34:30.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer hose is normally 3/16&quot; for short runs. IIRC, tailpieces are also 3/16&quot;, but if yours is 1/4&quot; that's not a problem, since it's just before the faucet. Making the hose wider is usually ok - the beer simply moves slower which is good to stop it foaming too much in the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't take any of those solutions. I'd swap out all the 1/4&quot; for 3/16&quot;. 1/4&quot; line has a restriction of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.no/search?q=1/4%22%20beer%20hose%20restriction&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;oq=1/4%22%20beer%20hose%20restriction&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;0.85 psi&lt;/a&gt; per foot, while 3/16&quot; has a restriction of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micromatic.com/direct-draw-draft-beer-system-aid-121.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3 psi&lt;/a&gt; per foot, so you will reduce the length required considerably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2011/07/14/keg-line-length-balancing-the-science-of-draft-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Keg line balancing&lt;/a&gt;, Beersmith Blog&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-10T21:45:14.633" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T21:45:14.633" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9739" CreationDate="2013-04-10T22:02:59.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are fighting the 1/4&quot; line. It is going to flow the beer way too fast at that psi and distance to ever get a good pour. In my experience, trying to get a system exactly balanced on line length and elevation never seems to result in a good pour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my kegerator, I run all taps with 10ft of 3/16 line. Most of my beers are run around 10psi and they pour great. I have had a Hefeweizen on tap at about 18psi and it poured fast, but it wasn't overly foamy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3322" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T22:02:59.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9770" CreationDate="2013-04-11T05:21:40.827" Score="3" ViewCount="2978" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a recipe with Tonka Beans. At what point should I add them and approx. how many?&#xA;I know that vanilla is usually added after primary. &#xA;Should I do the same with these or can I add them already during the boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2637" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T07:43:35.523" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T17:24:57.550" Title="Brewing with Tonka Beans" Tags="|techniques|ingredients|adjunct|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9749" CreationDate="2013-04-11T09:31:29.557" Score="9" ViewCount="2099" Body="&lt;p&gt;I imagine other parameters are more important (like temperature or pitching rate). Still, I was wondering if pressure has some effect on the fermentation process (for example on flocculation, fermentation time or flavour profile)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T13:46:18.080" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T13:46:24.967" Title="Pressure during fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|pressure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9746" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-11T10:56:12.457" Score="2" ViewCount="389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've taken my OG at the start, and another reading last night. Only last night did I register that my OG seemed slightly low according to what the brew can suggested as typical.&#xA;My OG was 1.037 (can said 1.046 was likely)&#xA;Last nights reading was 1.019 (after 6 days)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My OG was taken at roughly 26C, and last night at a frosty 19C (the fermenting has been very steadily at 20C almost the entire time - yesterday a cold front hit my area :( )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, should I be adjusting these readings somehow because of the temperature?&#xA;Oh yeah, using a hydrometer... I guess that's important to know? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I now see there are calculators to do so, and it seems like the difference in gravity is tiny, from a 7degC variance (which is a fairly big temperature difference, so I'm surprised)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3304" LastEditorUserId="3304" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T15:16:49.537" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T14:31:04.007" Title="should I/how do I account for temperature differences for gravity readings?" Tags="|temperature|specific-gravity|original-gravity|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9745" CreationDate="2013-04-11T13:33:42.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pressure matters. Most commercial breweries deal with significant hydrostatic pressure as a result of their large conical fermentors, though this effect is negligible at the homebrew scale. Still, many people (myself included) ferment under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dominant effect seems to be a slight reduction of esters, and as I understand it this is linked to decreased production of Acetyl CoA. But, to increase esters again, I simply ferment a few degrees warmer than I otherwise would. It's a relatively subtle variable, but important nonetheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T13:33:42.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9745" CreationDate="2013-04-11T13:46:24.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a study on &lt;a href=&quot;http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.1992.tb01137.x/abstract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the effects of brewing under pressure&lt;/a&gt;. The general conclusion was that increased pressure reduced the formation of esters and fusel alcohol. This was caused at least in part by a reduction in the amount of yeast growth as the pressure went up. Judging by the active vs total biomass charts, it did not have any noticeable effect on flocculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T13:46:24.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-11T15:54:19.987" Score="9" ViewCount="10365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hear that some brewers ferment under pressure. What is the rationale/benefits of doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T01:05:14.727" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T01:05:14.727" Title="What are the benefits of fermenting under pressure?" Tags="|fermentation|process|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9750" CreationDate="2013-04-11T16:24:26.740" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a very big fan of pressurized fermentation. The benefits I see, in rough order of the value I place on them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) Pressurized ferments streamline my process tremendously.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is the big one. Once my wort is chilled, I transfer to a regular corny keg (just under 5 gallons). I keep the fermentation at 5 psi until it starts slowing down, and then I cap to my target carbonation level. For most beers, that's it. I cold crash, hook up to gas, and serve directly from the fermentor. That means less equipment to clean and less equipment to manage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) Oxygenation is simple and consistent.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To oxygenate my wort, I simply fill to the fill line and then bubble canned oxygen through the liquid diptube until I hit 4psi. With a liter and a half of headspace, by my math that puts me right at 15 ppm O2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3) The pressure keeps blow-off down&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I like fermenting in corny kegs because they are they cheapest stainless steel vessel I can find. However, they're a bit small. WIth a bit of pressure and a bit of fermcap, I'm able to ferment with them nearly full with only a very small amount of blow-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4) I use less CO2.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This likely isn't a big deal for most people, but where I live getting CO2 is a major pain. Since I started pressure fermenting, my CO2 cylinders have been lasting 3 times as long. That's two fewer trips to the welding store for every trip I still have to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5) I can ferment warmer and thus don't need to cool as much.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Because pressure inhibits ester and fusel formation, I ferment a few degrees warmer than I otherwise would to achieve similar results. I use thermoelectric cooling for space reasons, which is relatively energy intensive. This means I don't need to use as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I'll thinking of switching to a pressure-capable conical at some point in the near future. This would change my process somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'll keep this list updated if I think of anything else.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastEditorUserId="3109" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T16:52:22.817" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T16:52:22.817" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-11T17:33:06.423" Score="1" ViewCount="1319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of popping for this brew kettle - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/brewing-equipment/brew-kettles/megapot-with-ball-valve-brewmometer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/brewing-equipment/brew-kettles/megapot-with-ball-valve-brewmometer.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It comes with a ball valve and thermometer.  Both will be useful to me as it is becoming more difficult to transfer wort form kettle to carboy all by myself.  I also would like to get the false bottom to ease cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question to you is:  is this really worth the price?  I would get the 10 gal one for $309.98.  Sure seems like a lot of money!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T06:19:00.783" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T13:44:57.893" Title="What are the price/features tradeoffs to consider when buying a new brew kettle?" Tags="|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-12T00:27:28.867" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9752" CreationDate="2013-04-11T18:36:52.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the minority here, but I just can't, for the life of me, figure out why anyone would ever bother spending so much money on a brew kettle. What do you get for the extra money? Let's break it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) A built in thermometer - Here's a tip for you, water/wort boils at 212F ;)  Seriously though, if you NEED a thermometer because you're monitoring the temps during chilling (or whatever) a decent probe thermometer will cost you $20. Plus, you can move the probe around to ensure you aren't in a single hot/cold spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Ball Value - This is actually pretty nice, but is it &quot;$300 nice&quot;? Furthermore, you can purchase a weldless valve kit and make your own valve in an aluminum pot. Or pay someone a couple bucks to do it. Or, you can live with a $15 Auto-Syphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Stainless Steel construction - Very nice, super shiny, fairly expensive. The myth about aluminum and Alzheimers has been disproven, so I'm not sure what the extra benefit would be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) A sight glass - For volume estimation. You can replicate this by marking some lines on your mash paddle for your pot for the different gallon levels. Or, you can open up that dusty old geometry book and figure out the volume of a cylinder (Pi * radius squared * height).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in the comments, this is going to be your opinion ultimately, but you should break down the features you'll get from the nice kettle, and decide if its worth it compared to the baseline price of about $30 for a 10 gallon aluminum &quot;Tamale Steamer&quot;. Its what I use, and is available in most Latin grocery stores. A 10-fold price increase for me to go from my beloved steamer to a &quot;real&quot; kettle like the one you linked to is FAR to excessive for me to be considering it at the moment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T13:44:57.893" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T13:44:57.893" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-12T00:27:28.867" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9754" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-04-11T21:12:23.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A dark beer that uses roasted barley or malt. Stouts are usually strong beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T23:34:12.407" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T23:34:12.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9755" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-04-11T21:12:23.213" Score="0" Body="A dark beer that uses roasted barley or malt." OwnerUserId="3215" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T23:17:28.097" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T23:17:28.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9756" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-04-11T22:20:21.950" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T22:20:21.950" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T22:20:21.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9757" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-04-11T22:20:21.950" Score="0" Body="Questions pertaining to the legality of using certain ingredients, methods or processes when homebrewing" OwnerUserId="3215" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T23:33:48.093" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T23:33:48.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9752" CreationDate="2013-04-12T06:18:36.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Money is always subjective, and so is what equipment a brewer needs to complete the brewday. It depends upon your process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not all grain brewing, then you can make do with a lot less. If you can do a full wort boil and have some way to get the wort out (e.g. a gooseneck siphon if chilling outside the kettle, or a regular siphon for an IM chiller) then that's all you need at a minimum. A thermometer isn't really needed for monitoring wort since it's just being boiled (it can help with curiosity and impatience - a watched pot never boils!), and sight gauge is not necessary since volume is not so important - the gravity is chiefly determined by the amount of extract you put in and the volume can be adjusted with top-up water in the fermentor if needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're all grain brewing, then getting by without this can still be done, but the process has many more variables, and more things can go awry if not monitored. You can brew AG without knowing pre- and post-boil volume, but when things don't go as you planned you'll have a harder job figuring out why the beer didn't come out as intended. The volume measurements from a sight gauge help you dial-in and fine tune your process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T06:18:36.923" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-12T06:18:36.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9759" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-04-12T06:29:06.303" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T06:29:06.303" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T06:29:06.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9760" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-04-12T06:29:06.303" Score="0" Body="Equipment required for boiling the wort. Comprises at least the kettle and the heat source." OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T06:29:06.303" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T06:29:06.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9772" CreationDate="2013-04-12T07:15:38.127" Score="1" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;the Simply Ginger Beer kit I've brewed and just part-bottled is horrible. The chemical sweetener taste is overpowering and even though I have bottled 20 500ml flip-tops (more for practice than anything), I fully expect to be poring this thing down the sink soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT... before I do, is there anything else I can do with the brew? I.e. an ingredient for something else or convert it to something. I hate the waste!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T08:58:34.813" Title="Alternative uses for a failed batch" Tags="|reuse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9771" CreationDate="2013-04-12T11:08:57.670" Score="3" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;Supposing I boil the same amount of hops in the same wort (same SG, for the same time, let's say one hour), separately into two pans:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One with 10L wort, and &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt; grams of hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One with 1L wort and &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt; grams of hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I expect different amount of alpha acids to be extracted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that IBU will be very different for the two, but will the absolute amount of bitterness extracted be the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To say it in another way: If I add 9L of wort to 2., how will it compare to bitterness of 1.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-04-13T01:43:58.657" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T08:46:48.883" Title="Is bitterness extraction dependent on wort volume?" Tags="|hop-utilization|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-12T12:32:54.470" Score="2" ViewCount="792" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know what the effect of trying to bottle 35 pints of a light ale that's already been primed in a barel would be? Presumably there is still yeast floating about that would be able to convert a new dose of priming sugar for bottling? Might two lots of priming affect the taste? This is a hypothetical question... for now :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2017-08-27T20:37:36.363" Title="Is it possible to successfully bottle a beer that's already been primed in a barrel?" Tags="|bottling|priming|priming-sugar|barrel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9752" CreationDate="2013-04-12T13:18:11.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the things I have always liked about the home brewing hobby is that you can get started and make excellent beer without investing a lot of money in equipment, but there are many options for equipment that can be added over time. Some of those options may improve your beer, but others often just make things more convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, the primary consideration for investing in a substantial kettle should be volume: A 10-gallon kettle limits you to 5 gallon batches, but a 15-gallon kettle will let you make 10 gallons. A kettle like you have referenced should last forever -- I purchased a similar one in 1995 and it still looks brand new after 100's of batches. So consider whether you might want to increase your batch size down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed &quot;on the cheap&quot; for many years. I started with one of those &quot;speckle enamel&quot; canning pots, used Rubbermaid coolers for mash tuns and hot-liquor tanks, did my vorlaufing by draining wort into a small pot that I poured by into the mash by hand, etc. Over time I upgraded my kettles, added pumps, and I now brew with a Sabco RIMS system that I picked up second-hand. Did those additions improve my beer? Some did: A thin-walled kettle is much more prone to scorching than one with a thicker bottom that gives more even heat distribution. But many of them just made things easier, shortening my brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is that kettle worth the money? You can certainly get by with cheaper options. But I do really like the dial thermometer because I can see at a glance, from a distance, whether I am close to a boil and need to watch for a boil-over. The false bottom make wort transfer much easier because most of the hops stay in the kettle. The ball valve makes it easier to move to pumps and counter-flow chillers, etc. A welded fitting has fewer seams for cleaning. I think that this is a fair price for a kettle of this quality and features. So it really comes down to your budget, and how important those features are to you. I have found that small improvements in process that may be expensive could never be justified if you are looking at them as a businessman would with a cost/benefit analysis -- but they accumulate and make the hobby more enjoyable for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T13:18:11.870" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-12T13:18:11.870" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9763" CreationDate="2013-04-12T13:30:22.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you are meaning that you've primed AND carbonated in the barrel. Correct me if wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can bottle already carbonated beer from a keg using counter pressure to reduce foaming. Our very own @joefish made a great video about the process he uses. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXhYmTlHH50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXhYmTlHH50&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a barrel may be more difficult being as you have little to no control over pressure and you may end up with a under carbonated bottle as a result of co&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; loss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't reintroduce more sugar into the beer because then you may end up overcarbonating and have all the risks that go along with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as effect on taste. 5oz priming sugar has a 0.002 effect on your gravity so its hardly anything to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T14:24:41.587" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T14:24:41.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9763" CreationDate="2013-04-12T14:24:03.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done this many times with a counter-pressure filler. I have also used the Blichmann Beer Gun with success, although I think it does lose a bit more carbonation than the CP-filler. OTOH, the Beer Gun is much easier to use. The key to success is to make sure everything is very cold: Put the bottles in a freezer and take them out 6 at a time as you are filling. Cool the beer down below 40F before starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T14:24:03.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9752" CreationDate="2013-04-12T15:20:53.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own the above referenced kettle and have been very happy with it, however prior to buying it I brewed in a 10 gal aluminum stock pot that set me back about $50 and worked great for years...I still use it to heat spare water.  If you think $300 is too much to spend, then it probably is, particularly since there are so many other less expensive options available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T15:20:53.963" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-12T15:20:53.963" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9746" CreationDate="2013-04-12T16:39:18.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most hydrometers are calibrated at 60&amp;deg;F (15.56&amp;deg;C). Though the difference will be negligible at your temperatures, you should still use a calculator like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/hydrometer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/hydrometer.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-13T08:52:27.157" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T08:52:27.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9744" CreationDate="2013-04-12T17:24:57.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tonka beans contain &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coumarin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Coumarin&lt;/a&gt; which the FDA in the US has banned the use of these beans because of hepatotoxicity (liver damage). That being said adding vanilla beans to the boil is a bad idea as the flavor compounds will evaporate off. Putting them in primary or secondary is the best plan. Have added vanilla beans to secondary an that gives great flavor to beer. The amount to add is really the kicker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible approach that is commonly used would be to soak the tonka beans in vodka and add the tonka bean flavored vodka to the finished beer when you are done. The benefit of this approach is you can test adding different amounts of the tonka bean flavored vodka to beer in glasses and see what amount gives the effect you wanted. Then simply scale it up and add the calculated amount of tonka bean flavored vodka to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and let us know how it ends up tasting. My guess is that small doses of tonka beans should be fine. Acetaminophen also has liver toxicity but it is still available over the counter as an analgesic. ;-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T17:24:57.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9762" CreationDate="2013-04-13T08:46:48.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a theoretical level, with worts that are completely free of suspended solids, then for the quantity of iso-alpha acids extracted would be the same. In practice, there are some limiting factors, that make scaling down (using relatively more hops in less solution) non-linear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;there is a maximum solubility of iso-alpha acids, around 120 ppm/80 IBU for a 5% abv beer. Stronger beers allow slightly more. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/discus/messages/26895/31139.html?1121327664&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;). Solubility decreases with lower pH so this is self-limiting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;even with no suspended solids, the kettle wall and proteins precipitated during the boil act to keep AAs out of solution. For the same kettle size, a smaller wort will loose a larger percentage of the AAs this way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, keep in mind that hop bitterness is not just about alpha acids, but also oxidized beta acids, and polyphenols so whether boiling hops in more/less wort would make an appreciable subjective difference to the bitterness would need to be measured empirically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to know for sure is to do it yourself and compare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T08:46:48.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9761" CreationDate="2013-04-13T17:07:19.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a chemical sweetener taste, I don't think there's much you could do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try a big cold crash on them, bring them down to 1c or so and slowly pour off amounts where you don't get the chemical sweetener taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What chemical sweetener did you use? There may be people with similar issues, but for future reference it'd be useful to know what to avoid!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: judging by your earlier post, you bottled after March 25th, so about 2 weeks ago, assuming minor delays here and there. How long did you leave your bottles in the fridge? I normally recommend at least two weeks if you used any kind of malt extract, and ideally longer. I had a discussion recently with a friend in Australia who described something similar to you, but he left the beer for another month and he states that it now tastes fantastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastEditorUserId="3295" LastEditDate="2013-04-14T03:42:35.900" LastActivityDate="2013-04-14T03:42:35.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9672" CreationDate="2013-04-15T00:58:00.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stainless conical fermentors don't let in light or UV rays and unlike plastic, it's impermeable to oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T05:31:10.810" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T05:31:10.810" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-15T00:58:00.343" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9761" CreationDate="2013-04-16T08:58:34.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try to make vinegar with it (&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9683/how-to-make-malt-vinegar&quot;&gt;see this&lt;/a&gt;). To do that you need to leave the beer in contact with air to oxidize and preferably add bacteria (or the mother). You can get it from a non pasteurized vinegar you buy (if it has some sedminent, it is hazy, or some lumps in it it should be good) or from some home made vinegar. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use it for cooking. Depending on how bad it tastes you could want to risk and use it to replace whine (for example in a boeuf bourguignon recipe, or some similar long time boil meat recipe, or in a risotto), or try to make some sauce with it (for example a bechamel with half broth and half beer). For sure to try those you need to spend some time and some money for an uncertain result.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mix the bad beer with another one, to try to balance the excessive flavours. Even if the risk of have the double of c**ppy beer is there :) Make a try with a small quantity before.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T08:58:34.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9777" CreationDate="2013-04-16T13:17:16.420" Score="2" ViewCount="2365" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does cause ash or ash tray off flavour? I made an all grain porter (using chocolate and carafa type I), there is a slight ash tray off flavour. The falvour was apparent at the beginning (just after bottling). Does it depend on the exessive amount of dark grains? Or maybe it is beacause of oxidation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carafa+chocolate percentage was about 10% of grains weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="2869" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T17:02:37.083" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T01:48:39.217" Title="Ash/ash tray off flavour" Tags="|off-flavor|porter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9776" CreationDate="2013-04-16T14:20:10.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once made a porter with 4% black (patent) malt. It was nearly undrinkable due to the astringent ashy flavor. Letting it sit for a couple of months in the keg helped, but it was still overly assertive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carafa III is similar to black patent. In fact some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew.is/files/malt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sources&lt;/a&gt; claim that one can be substituted for the other. If your grist included more than 1 or 2% Carafa III then I would say this is the source of the ash tray flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T14:20:10.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9746" CreationDate="2013-04-16T14:31:04.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 5C difference from calibration temperature variation accounts for about 1.0 gravity point, which can be neglected considering hydrometer precision is 2 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 10C variation account for about 2.0 gravity points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand it is a bad idea to not correct let's say up to 5C difference and correct starting from 6C, since this would create some systematic error (1C variation for the same gravity would result in one or two gravity points difference in the measures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to be safe correction should be always applied, a variation of 1C or 2C can be still ignored considering you are not in a metrology lab :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online calculator&lt;/a&gt; supports Fahrenheit and Celsius. And &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixA.html%20an&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this table&lt;/a&gt; shows correction values(using 15C calibration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T14:31:04.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9776" CreationDate="2013-04-16T15:00:01.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was this an All Grain brew, or Extract? Was the flavor apparent from the start, or did it develop over time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing All Grain pale-to-amber beers is pretty easy. If your water isn't slap full of chlorine/iron/etc (ie, tastes pretty good) then you can happily brew away without a care in the world. And a lot of all grain brewers make great beer .... up until they try their first Porter or Stout. What started out as a solid, good tasting Porter/Stout extract recipe now tastes like chalk/ashes. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not really a water chemistry expert, but here's how I understand it. When you mash really dark grains (Chocolate, Roast Barley, Carafa, very dark Crystal, etc), these grains really drag down your mash pH to levels that can really promote &quot;astringent&quot; flavors in the final beer. Actually, the longer the maltster toasts the grain, the lower the mash pH will be if you use that grain. However, with most base malts + most crystal malts less than, say, 80L, this impact is minimal. But if you've got enough roasted malt in your mash to bring down the pH past a certain threshold, then you can end up with the dreaded &quot;ash tray&quot; flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get very, very fancy in your approach to solving this. The &quot;best practice&quot; for serious brewers is to get the highly regarded &quot;Bru'n Water&quot; spreadsheet and use it to calculate the proper mineral additions to keep your water chemistry in check. &lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&lt;/a&gt;. You'll need to know the &quot;profile&quot; of your starting water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use the easier &quot;EZ Water Calculator&quot;. I personally use this, and it seems to work fine, but honestly, I never brew much darker than a roasty Brown Ale from time to time. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ezwatercalculator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ezwatercalculator.com/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there's another approach, which is espoused by Gordon Strong, wherein you say &quot;screw it!&quot; to all these water calculations and do a few things. 1) Start with 100% reverse osmosis water. 2) Don't add dark grains to the mash, steep them separately and add to the boil. 3) Add a standard amount of calcium chloride to each brew, and a little gypsum for hoppy beers. These rules of thumb will get you good beers regularly. You might need to tweak recipes slightly with this approach, as your dark grains won't add as much color/flavor as they otherwise might have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whew... but what if this doesn't fix the problem? Or what if your dark beers tasted fine for a few weeks, and then slowly developed the ashy taste? (I had this happen to an Oatmeal Porter not too long ago). In that case, you've probably got an infection, ESPECIALLY if the beers are extra foamy. In dark beers, the acidity from an infection can come through as a rough/chalky/astringent flavor, whereas in lighter beers it might just taste weird/fruity/tangy. So that's a distinct possibility as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T15:00:01.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9776" CreationDate="2013-04-17T01:48:39.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem recently with a stout recipe that was very close in carafa / chocolate malt content.  I don't know what caused it, but after about 3 weeks in the bottle it started to mellow.  Six weeks later it is pretty darn tasty.  In fact, I think I'll go drink one right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3282" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T01:48:39.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-17T17:00:02.773" Score="3" ViewCount="701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a had a question for quite some time that nobody has been able to answer.  The question is more academic or theoretical than it is practical.  Perhaps the community here is a tad smarter (nerdier?) than other brewing forums.  Everywhere I go, people say that higher yeast cell counts are better.  Got a high gravity wort? Use two yeast packs.  Got a couple days before brew day? Use a yeast starter.  My question is &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; does this matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that, theoretically, if you threw one yeast cell in the wort, it would munch on some sugar, and reproduce.  Then it would repeat this cycle until all the fermentable sugar was gone and there would be many many many yeast cells at that point.  Seemingly, the only difference between this pitching millions of yeast cells is that presumably the single yeast cell situation would take longer to get to the end point.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this is somewhat contrived. Perhaps the single cell dies before reproducing?  Ignore issues like that for the point of this question.  Why is it important to have many many many yeast cells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3341" LastActivityDate="2013-04-19T20:53:32.173" Title="yeast cell count importance" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9783" CreationDate="2013-04-17T17:12:46.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast pitching rate is vitally important to getting the proper flavor out of your beers. Its been said that yeast can produce up to 500 distinct flavors in your beer that are for the most part entirely dependent on pitch rates and fermentation temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under pitch and you make your yeast work TOO hard resulting in soapy, chemical or possibly even corn flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over pitch and you will lose some of the esters and flavors that the yeast add to your beer because yeast when given the opportunity are lazy and don't work hard when they don't have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like Hops, grains and adjuncts should be measured more or less exactly, your yeast additions so should be properly measured. Use yeast calculators and make the appropriate sized starter and pitch the appropriate amount of yeast to do the job and do it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you under pitch your yeast may not even finish fermenting the beer because its been put through so much stress already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't really care and are happy drinking whatever your fermenter spits out you can ignore pitching rates and get beer, but if you want to perfect your beer and make high quality homebrew you should really monitor your pitching rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-04-17T18:17:59.303" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T18:17:59.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9783" CreationDate="2013-04-17T17:24:49.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast behavior in wort is more complex than you think it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, there's two phases of yeast growth: a lag phase where yeast are getting acclimated to their environment, preparing for exponential growth and fermentation, and the exponential growth phase.  Over- or under-pitching will primarily affect the lag phase, generally under-preparing the yeast to really rock and roll during fermentation.  That one initial cell you pitched can't consume enough oxygen, zinc, magnesium, &amp;amp;c. from the wort in order to reproduce and ferment the whole batch successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White and Zainasheff's /Yeast/ is highly recommended if you're interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T17:24:49.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9783" CreationDate="2013-04-17T19:14:22.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, you want your yeast to be mostly be making alcohol, rather than making babies, so you get the appropriate flavor profile and attenuation. You can underpitch, but the flavor will not be the same and attenuation lower. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-19T20:53:32.173" LastActivityDate="2013-04-19T20:53:32.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6793" CreationDate="2013-04-17T23:11:51.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just today I read the brief descriptions of Herkules and Hallertauer Merkur in Stan Hieronymus's &quot;For the Love of Hops&quot;. FWIW, a summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Herkules is described as &quot;smoothly bitter, a reminder that assessing cohumulone's role is complicated.&quot; No discussion of aroma, so I'd follow your nose with this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hallertauer Merkur is described as &quot;a bittering hop used primarily in pale lagers. Earthly, floral, spicy.&quot; This to me indicates it has enough aroma to suffice for late additions, although probably won't have the same profile as a classic Saazer or even Hallertauer Mittelfrüh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any hop, the advice I once received from an experienced commercial brewer was that if it smells good then you can probably brew something decent with it. So take a sniff, think about what you want from the hop, and if it works then throw a handful in late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, I grow a hop in my backyard that was bred for commercial release only as an ornamental, not a production plant. (Sunbeam, sometimes marketed as Golden; Saaz is a parent.) The hops' aroma is mild and slightly spicy. With the 2nd year's harvest I put about 2 ounces (dried) in at flameout of a golden ale recipe. It was one of the best beers I've ever made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T23:11:51.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9790" CreationDate="2013-04-18T01:04:57.883" Score="8" ViewCount="3120" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summers where I live typically have 80F nights and it can easily pick up to 95 degrees during the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a plastic trash can (which I bought for this purpose) that I have filled up with water. Currently, my apartment measures 79F, but measuring the water in the trashcan gives me 70F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Can I just place my fermentation tank in this tub of water to counter the heat? An employee at a local brew shop said no, the temperature of the water will just be room temperature. However, it is currently reading 9F below room temperature...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)Will this method work during the summer, when I have a 90-95F day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Will bacteria that collects in the bucket of water be a greater threat to my vodka-filled airlock than the bacteria that collects in my closet, where my fermentation tank is currently stored?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2013-06-14T21:42:15.783" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T18:46:30.977" Title="Would placing the fermenter tank in a tub of water be a good way to handle hot environments?" Tags="|sanitation|temperature|cleaning|temperature-control|swamp-cooler|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9788" CreationDate="2013-04-18T01:21:42.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely. If you need to cool the bucket further you could alternate adding ice packs to maintain your fermenting temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T01:21:42.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9788" CreationDate="2013-04-18T01:51:12.960" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) &lt;strong&gt;Can I just place my fermentation tank in this tub of water to counter the heat?&lt;/strong&gt; Yes. This will work to a degree (ha, ha.) The water is slowly but constantly evaporating. The energy need to make liquid water into gas comes out of the water's temperature. This &quot;evaporative cooling&quot; will help cool your wort by a few degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) &lt;strong&gt;Will this method work during the summer, when I have a 90-95F day?&lt;/strong&gt; Not really. You'll see the same absolute drop in temperature. If the evaporative cooling takes an 80 F. wort down to 75 F., it will take a 90 F. wort down to 85 F. I've solved this problem by freezing water in 1 qt plastic bottles and adding them the to the water bath twice a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) &lt;strong&gt;Will bacteria that collects in the bucket of water be a greater threat?&lt;/strong&gt; Not if you're careful. When you're ready to remove the beer from the fermenter, take the fermentor out of the bucket. If you ferment in glass, clean the neck of the carboy with no-rinse sanitizer (vodka will do, but StarSan is cheaper). Don't try to rack the beer from the fermenter while it's in the water bath. At some point, you'll have removed enough weight for the fermenter to become buoyant, and it will tip over, perhaps letting water in, and definitely disturbing the sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-04-18T05:00:21.073" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T05:00:21.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9794" CreationDate="2013-04-18T10:06:57.677" Score="2" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was planning on building myself one of these for the summer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/portable-igloo-cooler-kegerator-172047-post1990392/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/portable-igloo-cooler-kegerator-172047-post1990392/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently bottle all my beer and don't own any kegging equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I be able to do this without buying a second fridge? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words can kegged beer be stored in room temperature and then cooled down a night or so before serving? I don't have room in my fridge to keep the kegs there constantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2637" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T12:11:57.883" Title="Does kegging require a fridge" Tags="|techniques|kegging|keg|kegerator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-18T11:29:54.170" Score="1" ViewCount="665" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to keep track of the state of my kegs - how many times were they washed with a caustic cleaner since the last acid cleaning, how long ago was it cleaned (and pressurized), what beer is in it (and for how long?), things like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post-its work for a couple of kegs, but I'd like something more robust and slightly more scalable (a dozen kegs, perhaps).  Some of the software solutions I've found by googling look like they could work, but appear to be geared towards professionals and super complicated (and expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any existing, simple (and preferably cheap) solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3347" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T11:02:26.510" Title="Keg Management Systems" Tags="|keg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9788" CreationDate="2013-04-18T12:09:31.543" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;This method is sometimes referred to as a &quot;swamp cooler&quot;, and is well known and used in homebrewing circles. Honestly, if the brew shop employee told you it wouldn't work then they are either (a) trying to sell you a brewing fridge, or (b) not that educated on homebrewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change out some ice packs in the water twice a day and you get get down to the low 60's for the fermenting temp. For a 5gal carboy, I think you'll want the water in the garbage bin to reach about the 4gal line. Be sure to stick a thermometer on the side of your carboy/bucket, at about the 4.5gal mark, so its above the water level, and below the wort level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about mold and mildew, you can add a tbsp of bleach to the water every day or two. That should keep the water fresh for a while. Plain water isn't really going to attract the really nasty bugs like acetobacter, so your vodka airlock will be more than sufficient to protect the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temp control is crucial to beer quality for about the first 3-4 days, and less important after that (for ales anyway). Make sure you are super vigilant about changing the ice packs (frozen 2-liter bottles work good too) for that time, and then after that, you can relax a little and maybe just change them out once a day or two. I wouldn't let the temps get above 72-74F, if I could help it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to swap out ice packs, drape a kitchen towel or a t-shirt over the top of the carboy so that about half of the fabric is in the water. Put a small fan to blow directly on the shirt. The shirt will wick water up and the evaporation that occurs will steadily hold down the temps too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T12:09:31.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9791" CreationDate="2013-04-18T12:11:57.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a buddy who did this for several years before investing in a beer fridge. Its not ideal, but it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference to remember is that C02 becomes more soluble in liquid as the liquid drops in temperature, and less as it rises. So this means you'll need to push more C02 in to carbonate room temp kegs than cold ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T12:11:57.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9796" CreationDate="2013-04-18T16:56:21.300" Score="3" ViewCount="6936" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone comment on the suitability of Baby Bottle sanitiser for cleaning brew kit? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Milton is a popular brand name of such in the UK. I'd like to put a brew on this eve or tomorrow morning and have none of the usual 'Homebrew Sanitizer' left. Milton is however sold everywhere :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T16:04:51.497" Title="Milton / Baby bottle sanitiser?" Tags="|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9795" CreationDate="2013-04-18T17:19:30.407" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Milton Sterilising Fluid allows you to sterilise in just 15 minutes,&#xA;  killing bacteria, viruses, fungi and spores (tough dormant bacteria).&#xA;  It has been used in hospitals for many years as a simple and very&#xA;  reliable method.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wow. Sounds way stronger than needed for brewing! I wonder whats in it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Milton Fluid is made of an aqueous solution of sodium hypochlorite&#xA;  and 16.5% sodium chloride. The Milton Fluid that is available to buy&#xA;  is a strength of 2% sodium hypochlorite.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ahhh. Sodium Chloride is, of course, plain old salt, and Sodium Hypochlorite is &lt;strong&gt;bleach&lt;/strong&gt;. This stuff uses some other chemicals so that it is a 'no rinse' cleaner for the baby products, meaning that it won't hurt the kid. According to their site, the presence of any protein will immediately denature the sterilizer into plain ol' salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOWEVER, this sounds great for baby bottles, but perhaps not for brewing. Here's my thinking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Bleach is troublesome as a cleanser because any active bleach that makes it into the fermentor can trigger a host of terrible flavors from the yeast. For this reason, bleach is always, always rinsed away with clean water after it is used to clean/sterilize brewing gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) This particular product is basically just highly packaged bleach with a lot of marketing, and as such I expect that it is VERY COSTLY comparred to (a) regular bleach, or (b) the wide range of other BETTER sanitizers out there. I see on Amazon that a 28-tablet box of their &quot;sterilizing tablets&quot; goes for $3, but I am not sure how many tablets you'd need to use to generate a gallon or so of sterilizing liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary: Yes, this product SHOULD be fine for brewing, but only if you rinse with sterile water after to ensure that no bleach is left on the gear. And its probably WAY more expensive than using plain bleach, or a proven brewing sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T17:19:30.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9783" CreationDate="2013-04-18T20:52:06.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once pitched 4ltrs of yeast into a 11.5hl batch of red. I let the temp sit for two days at 25'C to prompt the lag phase. I think a lot of it has to do with the state of the yeast. This was on it's 10th generation of cropping. Still turned out as I expected, just took a little longer. Just for reference we usually pitch 20ltrs of yeast or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3349" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T20:52:06.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="923" CreationDate="2013-04-18T20:56:18.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just remember that slow is good. If you sparge and run off too fast you'll drag all those nasty undesirables out of your mash and into your kettle. If you're using some form of mash plate or filter you could end up blocking that too. If you're able to you should always recirculate your wort back into your mash to clarify it. it'll smooth the process out for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3349" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T20:56:18.600" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-18T20:56:18.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-20T13:53:54.807" Score="3" ViewCount="2392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small jar of powdered Potassium Metabisulfite and Campden tablets that are Sodium Metabisulfite. The tablets are 550mg. I have seen on this forum that these chemicals, when added to your brewing water, dechlorinate and remove chloramine. But how much? I have seen that one tablet does 20 gal but I have to imagine that one tablet's mg content can vary. The Potassium is in powder form, how much of that ought to be used? I am an all grain brewer and I brew 5 gal batches starting with about 7-8 gal. My question: If I used the Potassium, how much should I use? If I used the campden tablet (550mg), should I use a whole tablet or half?  I do realize that this has been answered (sorta), but I need more specifics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3353" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T18:55:40.273" Title="How much Potassium (or sodium) metabisulfite to remove chloramine?" Tags="|campden|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9799" CreationDate="2013-04-20T16:31:36.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIK, the tabs are standardized.  One tab has enough sulfite to treat 20 gal. of water, so 1/2 tab is enough for your needs.  If the tabs are are 550 mg., I'd base the powder measurements on that.  It would be easy to add a dose of powder and either smell or taste the water to see how effective it was.  BTW, water guru Martin Brungard has recently written that excess sulfite will scavenge O2 from the water.  That may or may be be a concern.  If you use sulfite pre boil, as most people do, should be no problem.  Some people use it on their top off water, which could lead to issues with the yeast not having enough O2, although it appears you have to really overdo it for that to be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2013-04-20T18:55:40.273" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T18:55:40.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7252" CreationDate="2013-04-20T17:50:08.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey guys just my two cents,I have noticed that when I use alot of hops or hops with higher alpha I get this oily look sometimes.I could be wrong but,generally it seems to make since that it is probably the resins from the hops.Higher alphas mean that there is more resin available to be infused to your brew.Its much like Cannabis(same family as hops,this is why hops have a much,much longer history of being smoked than used in beer) some dont seem resinous and others are so resinous you can stick them to the wall.This is the same with hops.I know there are many other things that can cause the &quot;sheen&quot; but generally this is the most logical explanation.I have seen however,this be caused by bacterial issues....The best advice has already been given; give it another couple weeks and then taste it.Tasting after ten days is kind of like licking an egg to see what that chicken will taste like..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3354" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T17:50:08.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9719" CreationDate="2013-04-20T20:21:48.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use sanitizer in the primary and vodka in the secondary because I've never gotten an answer I trust regarding how long sanitizer is good for. I do know vodka kills bugs indefinitely. It's worked for me thus far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3021" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T20:21:48.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-21T11:31:07.933" Score="7" ViewCount="1203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard about some possible errors in the process that cause off-flavours (for example skunk due to sunlight). Excluding infection problems, and talking about most obvious errors one can do and are rather easy to identify and correct, what are the most common off-favours a homebrewer faces, what are the causes and what the soutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T14:20:41.403" Title="Most common and obvious off-flavours for homebrewers" Tags="|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-21T11:42:38.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9803" CreationDate="2013-04-21T22:11:24.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Soapy, Chemical or Corn flavors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under pitching yeast can result in as a result of the yeast overworking while eating all the sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always use a yeast calculator and pitch the proper amounts of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-04-22T13:16:14.957" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T13:16:14.957" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-21T22:11:24.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4924" CreationDate="2013-04-21T23:59:41.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a new product on the web (you can for sure get it on Amazon.com) called SafeTASTE.  It is a concentrated product that adds the tasty minerals back to distilled or reverse osmosis water - only a few drops are need in each cup of water.  1 mL will flavor an entire liter.  It has the same minerals, in the same forms and the same concentrations relative to each other as fine mineral waters.  Here is the link below to Amazon for this product:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00C4G50S0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/SafeTASTE/dp/B00C4G50S0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1366588583&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=safetaste&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3359" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T23:59:41.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9803" CreationDate="2013-04-22T12:39:36.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Banana and Bubble Gum&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Produced intentionally in certain styles (like Hefeweizen), the flavor is reminiscent of banana candy or &quot;Juicy Fruit&quot; bubblegum. The flavor comes from esters produced when (1) fermenting yeast at a higher temp range than optimal, or (b) under-pitching the yeast, or otherwise stressing them out (not enough oxygen, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T12:39:36.590" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-22T12:39:36.590" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9803" CreationDate="2013-04-22T13:16:05.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Puckering / Tea bag&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the beer has a drying, puckering quality, this is typically due to increased tannins in the beer. There are two main ways tannins can enter the beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fly sparging with water above 5.8pH and temperature above 176&amp;deg;F/70&amp;deg;C, which extracts tannins from the grain husks&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boiling a large quantity of hops for a long time. (e.g. 200g/8oz in a 20l/5gal. batch.) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T13:16:05.960" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-22T13:16:05.960" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9809" CreationDate="2013-04-22T15:46:34.517" Score="1" ViewCount="2055" Body="&lt;p&gt;very quick question: making a kit brew (Coopers Real Ale), which says a typical OG is 1.046 and FG is 1.006. Unfortunately, my OG was 1.038, and my current reading (after about 17 days) is 1.013, and holding (for the past 4 days).&#xA;Been fermenting at a pretty consistent 20C (with one drop to about 17C for a few hours) and once or twice popping to 22C.&#xA;I was pretty vigorous with how I mixed the wort initially - I shook and shook the fermenter. If anything, I'm worried I overdid it, because there was a lot of foam etc. (Is this normal? Did I mess up?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, how concerned should I be by the unexpected gravity readings? With a higher FG like this, should I wait longer, or bottle? (Concerned about it continuing to ferment, and then bottling, causing bottle bombs... am I mistaken?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: OG taken at 26C, latest gravity at 19C. (I did adjustments using online calculators, and they don't seem to make much difference...?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT #2: thanks for all the help everyone! I can only conclude now that&lt;br&gt;&#xA;a) I've been using the hydrometer correction calculation incorrectly (not knowing what the hydrometer is calibrated to)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;b) I somehow added more water??? (this one worries me though, because I was &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; precise according to the markings on the carboy - I'm now wondering whether the carboy, which I got from a local DIY brew shop, was incorrectly marked?)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;c) I stalled the yeast a little (although again, the temperature drop happened in the middle of the fermentation, and there was definitely further activity and SG drop for a few days afterwards?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm going to go ahead and bottle now this morning. Holding thumbs! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3304" LastEditorUserId="3304" LastEditDate="2013-04-23T06:55:51.320" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T06:55:51.320" Title="SG and OG quite different to values indicated on can label" Tags="|fermentation|original-gravity|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9808" CreationDate="2013-04-22T15:58:15.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically with a kit if you used the proper amounts of water/sugar/extract ratio your OG will be right on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incomplete mixing of the wort doesn't seem like a problem considering you shook the fermenter well. In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/connect/2012/03/talking-yeast-with-wyeast-laboratories/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; at 25:25 Owen Lingley from Wyeast Laboratories says that only 45 seconds vigorously shaking a carboy will oxoginate the wort to acceptable levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your FG is holding steady after 17 days fermenting, I would go ahead and bottle. Coopers ale yeast has 20&amp;deg;C as the low end of recommended temperature so its possible that your drop to 17&amp;deg;C stopped your fermentation. You hit 65.8% attenuation and Coopers ale yeast typically hits 72-77% attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-04-22T18:38:45.120" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T18:38:45.120" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9803" CreationDate="2013-04-22T17:04:15.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Medicinal / Band-Aid&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a flavor reminiscent of cold medicine, or an almost &quot;rubber&quot;-like twang, this one was very confusing to me when I first found it in my Dark Imperial Blueberry Witbier (as wretched a brew as it sounds).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two commonly accepted sources of this flavor: (a) bleach and (b) wild yeasts. The beach you get from not properly rinsing bleach-based cleaners/sanitizers. The wild yeast you can pick up from improper sanitation practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T17:04:15.600" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-22T17:04:15.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9803" CreationDate="2013-04-22T20:55:49.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's some great info from How to Brew by John Palmer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-1.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T20:55:49.393" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-22T20:55:49.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9808" CreationDate="2013-04-22T23:44:51.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to get a low original gravity when brewing from an extract kit. As long as you added all the malt extract and sugar provided with the kit, and you added the correct amount of water, there's really no way for the starting gravity to be low. I can think of two possible reasons that your OG was lower than expected: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you added more water than specified by the recipe&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you didn't completely mix the wort before taking a reading, and ended up with a sample that contained a lower proportion of fermentables.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the finishing gravity, if it's been steady for four days that's probably all the attenuation you're going to get. As mentioned in another answer, it could be that the yeast dropped out when the temperature hit 17 C. In this case, you could try raising the temperature to 20 C. and gently rousing the yeast. Use a sterilized, long-handled spoon to stir the yeast up from the bottom of the fermenter. The critical thing here is to introduce as little air as possible. At this stage in the process, oxygen is bad for your beer. It will accelerate staling and may add off-flavors. So, stir gently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is probably perfectly drinkable as it is, so don't worry too much if you can't get any more attenuation out of the yeast. Prime, bottle, wait, then enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T23:44:51.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9815" CreationDate="2013-04-23T01:48:38.490" Score="6" ViewCount="1383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see a lot of people with the 3 tier brewing system. What is the benefit and What are the different levels for? &lt;a href=&quot;https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/562502_10151417843083310_1001155967_n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This system is what I am referencing.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-04-23T15:57:41.270" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T18:44:26.240" Title="What is the benefit of a 3 tier system?" Tags="|equipment|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9813" CreationDate="2013-04-23T14:20:20.817" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Top tier - Sparge Water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Middle tier - Mash Tun&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom Tier - Boil Kettle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main benefit to having the vessels stacked in this manner is that you can transfer water/wort without the use of a siphon or an electric pump, everything can be gravity fed from top to bottom. Three tiers also allow you to easily fly sparge much easier than other setups (Obviously you can still batch sparge if you choose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat Strike water in top tier, open top valve to let it run off into your mash tun (second tier)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add grains, mash as you normally would&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While mashing, heat sparge water in top tier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After mash is complete, open top valve and bottom valve to fly sparge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once your wort is run off you can boil in the bottom tier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-04-23T18:44:26.240" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T18:44:26.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9803" CreationDate="2013-04-24T00:45:16.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Burnt flavors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using extracts, if the product is not mixed into your wort properly it can settle on the base of your kettle &amp;amp; get burnt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you mix well when adding liquid or dry extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T00:45:16.263" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-24T00:45:16.263" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9821" CreationDate="2013-04-24T18:10:48.497" Score="3" ViewCount="1153" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey brand new here on SE, but have been brewing all grain for about 5 batches now, mostly pale and amber ales. Going to brew my first Porter tonight, following Biermuncher's Black Pearl Porter recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always used crystal geyser bottled water, but (considering it's a dark beer) should I add calcium chloride chalk?   If so, how much for 5 gallons and when do I add it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where can I find a water report for Crystal Geyser bottled water?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Fixed a mis-wording. Added bold text. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3371" LastEditorUserId="3371" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T19:47:24.413" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T19:58:59.803" Title="My first Porter. Should I add any calcium chloride chalk to my bottled water before mashing?" Tags="|water|ph|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9820" CreationDate="2013-04-24T19:20:35.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Calcium Chloride [dihydrate] (CaCl₂) and chalk (CaCO₃)are two different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should not add salts unless you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a/ know your water's makeup; you might be able to get most of the relevant details from your municipal water department's yearly report, perhaps even from their website.  Otherwise, you can get a test kit, or send a sample to Ward Labs for analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b/ have a target water makeup in mind&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, you can use a tool (or do the work yourself, I guess; but use a tool) to determine how much of each salt to add to get from where you are to where you want to be.  Note that with particularly dark malts, pH adjustment starts to become more of an active requirement, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend against adding salts at this point. At 5 batches in, you probably have other things to focus on to improving your beer (yeast health/pitch rates and fermentation temp control, probably); water adjustment is pretty far down the list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T19:20:35.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9820" CreationDate="2013-04-24T19:58:59.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both dark roasted grains (Chocolate, Carafa, etc) and Calcium Chloride decrease mash pH, so adding both to water which works for Amber Ales sounds like you might need to adjust the water pH up (chalk is one way to do that, but its complicated...) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to figure out the water additions now, and you know your &quot;crystal geyser bottled water&quot; makes a good Amber Ale, then I would suggest mashing the dark grains of the Porter separately in some room temp water for a day, and adding that liquid to the boil. You might need to increase the amount of dark grains by 10-15%, but doing it this way ensure that they don't mess with your mash pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T19:58:59.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7621" CreationDate="2013-04-24T21:18:00.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect a contaminant. Did a Double  decoction weissebier on second generation German weissebier yeast and got lazy and let it stay too long in the primary : 3 weeks. Cold crashed and C02 slow carbed. Got a great aroma but lots of lemon taste. Still drinkable but suspect a pH drop related to the unknown bug. I have decided to move the fermenters out  of the wood shop since my Big Belgans there get a white haze on top( great taste though) after being in the secondary after a few weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3372" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T22:26:50.967" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T22:26:50.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9826" CreationDate="2013-04-24T22:34:00.863" Score="2" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I could store my finished home brew in a fermenting bucket that has a spout on the side. Of course not the same one it was fermented in but a clean one. Will it hold its carbonation? Was thinking might be simalor to a 2 l. pop bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3365" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T02:43:05.243" Title="Storing home brew" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9824" CreationDate="2013-04-25T01:50:27.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say &quot;finished home brew&quot; you'll need to expand on finished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, using a secondary fermenter in the long term is fine, so you'd move to a secondary vessel and ensure the airlock is maintained with sanitized fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You carbonate (normally) in kegs or bottles, if the concern is that you don't have enough bottles, don't prime in your secondary, but wait until you have a suitable pressurized vessel (kegs, or bottles) to carbonate in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: I have batches in secondary for months, a mead for about a year, and lambics normally take a year or more to allow the flavours to merge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T01:50:27.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9824" CreationDate="2013-04-25T02:43:05.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bucket generally would have a whole lot of trouble holding carbonation. Especially once you started drinking. Without a constant stream CO&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; you would lose your carbonation to the headspace in the vessel. My opinion, trying to carb in a bucket is a waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T02:43:05.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9832" CreationDate="2013-04-25T11:34:07.740" Score="17" ViewCount="95498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to make some homebrew cider. I intend to use store-bought apple juice, and mix with an appropriate amount of yeast. I am wondering what kind of yeast you would recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, I have been told that Champagne yeast is the best, but I have also heard that statement derided, so I really don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-26T10:09:24.073" LastActivityDate="2024-02-02T20:31:32.023" Title="Which yeast should I use to make apple cider" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9831" CreationDate="2013-04-25T13:12:12.337" Score="3" ViewCount="478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a region where the water is very hard, so I am considering spending a little more on bottled water to have more of a choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supposing that one can choose the water to use, but he doesn't want to get too fancy (becuase it knows very little about chemistry...), what is the one most important chemical parameter to look at in water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-04-25T14:15:33.330" LastActivityDate="2018-06-10T00:11:41.200" Title="What is the most important parameter to measure in water" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9828" CreationDate="2013-04-25T14:12:46.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose if you have to boil it down (sorry) to a single factor, I'd say the one thing is to ensure the water includes 50ppm of calcium. pH is no use since it may change or not change once you add grains depending upon what other ions are in solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water may be devoid of trace elements needed by the yeast, so use yeast nutrient blend to ensure these are present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No to be harsh, but taking a fairly complex subject such as water chemistry and asking for a single piece of advice to guide a decision is at best misguided. Without knowing what you stand to gain (and loose!) from switching water, you would be better off sticking with your existing water until you have the knowledge to make an informed decision about why you would want to switch. If you have specific problems with your water, try to address those first so you get some insight into what brewing salts you can add.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T14:12:46.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9828" CreationDate="2013-04-25T15:35:25.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important parameter in water is residual alkalinity.  It's the thing that determines what kind of beer you can brew and what adjustments you need to make for beer styles that aren't suited to your untreated water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;How to brew&quot;&lt;/a&gt; explains how to calculate it, how it is related to beer color and how to correct it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="2869" LastEditDate="2013-04-27T14:55:21.290" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T14:55:21.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2013-04-25T15:37:32.097" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an inexperienced ciderist and I've been researching this very question for around two months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many renowned cideries use champagne yeast. The thing to remember here is that champagne yeast is very aggressive and should ferment your must to total dryness (little/no sugar remaining, specific gravity below 1.000) so you may need to back-sweeten to achieve the flavor you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check this page out, this guy has tested dozens of combinations of sweeteners &amp;amp; yeasts: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f32/results-juice-yeast-sugar-experiments-83060/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f32/results-juice-yeast-sugar-experiments-83060/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am about to do 7 one-gal batches with TreeTop brand unpasteurized cider, with their gravity pumped to 1.065 with white/granulated sugar, and a half-ounce of yeast energizer per gallon added. This is happening in the next 4 days, so keep in touch with me and I'll share my results with the following yeasts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Danstar: &lt;strong&gt;Nottingham&lt;/strong&gt; (Type: dry, Purpose: English Ale)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safale: &lt;strong&gt;S04&lt;/strong&gt; (Type: dry, Purpose: English Ale)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wyeast: &lt;strong&gt;4776&lt;/strong&gt; (Type:liquid, Purpose: Cider)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red Star: &lt;strong&gt;Pasteur Champagne&lt;/strong&gt; (Type: dry, Purpose: Champagne)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red Star: &lt;strong&gt;Côte des Blancs&lt;/strong&gt; (Type: dry, Purpose: White Wine)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin: &lt;strong&gt;Bourgovin RC212&lt;/strong&gt; (Type: dry, Purpose: Red Wine)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Danstar: &lt;strong&gt;Belle Saison&lt;/strong&gt; (Type: dry, Purpose: Farmhouse Ale/Saison)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first five on the list I have read multiple positive reviews &amp;amp; successful recipies, the last two are for giggles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to read a good book on cider, I recommend:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cider-Making-Using-Enjoying-Edition/dp/1580175201/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cider: Making, Using &amp;amp; Enjoying Sweet &amp;amp; Hard Cider by Annie Proulx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3373" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T18:48:05.573" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T18:48:05.573" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2013-04-25T16:01:59.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make semi sweet sparkling cider often. After trying a few different types, I find that Danstar Nottingham is the very best. I make mine with table sugar and treetop pasteurized apple juice from Costco. Ferment it out to ~1.010 in primary, bottle (prime with table sugar as you would a pale ale) and then cold crash or pasteurize within about 10 days (when it is carbonated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3371" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T16:01:59.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2013-04-25T20:33:28.150" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used champagne yeast, but I find it dries the cider out too much. To reach an acceptable level of residual sweetness you have to back sweeten. That means either disabling the yeast (potassium sorbate, pasteurization, or cold crashing) and then carbonating and sweetening. Or you could add sweetener to each glass you pour. Either way, it's a PITA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used WYeast 1056 with good results. A juice that start around 1.060 finishes (for me) at around 1.005. To my mind this is the right level of sweetness, assuming the juice is not overly acidic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got 5 gallons of frozen unpasteurized juice that I'm going to turn into cider for the warmer weather. I might try Wyeast 1968, which is a highly flocculent and low attenuation strain. I expect it to finish somewhat sweeter than the 1056.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T20:33:28.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-25T23:02:07.823" Score="3" ViewCount="1111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always brewed with my brewster girlfriend around to help but even then I still find that I do the majority of the lifting. Moving into this time of year I know she's going to be less available to help, so I need some tips to save my back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brew full boils of wort, as much as 7 gallons, outside on a propane burner. My main problem areas are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transporting a full pot from my kitchen (mashing) area to the burner outside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving from the burner into my cooling bath after the boil. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dumping the finished and cooled wort into primary through my strainer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you 'lighten the load' on brew days? Any suggestions as to how I might lighten those three tasks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3371" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T15:20:37.047" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T15:20:37.047" Title="Oh... my back... (how do I brew with less heavy lifting?)" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9835" CreationDate="2013-04-25T23:58:24.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a two vessel system with pumps, like the brutus system, this makes it a lot easier for mashing and boiling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend not straining, using a siphon would be a lot easier, also, get a chiller (immersion or plate) to prevent yourself from moving to the cooling bath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll still need to move the bucket/fermenter with the beer in it, but that's probably easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Make sure you lift with your knees ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T23:58:24.973" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9835" CreationDate="2013-04-26T04:23:02.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a wort chiller, immersion are really easy to make and pretty cheap to buy. That way you don't have to move the pot in order to chill. Then get a pot with a spigot so that you can simply use gravity to move the chilled wort from the boiling pot into your fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you could mash on your propane burner. Just need to be a bit more attentive and stir a lot more. Which if you are BIAB is a good idea anyway as it increases efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way your brew day becomes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash on propane burner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove grains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chill with immersion chiller&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer using spigot on pot to fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerate (Swirl fermenter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place fermenter in stable location&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only heavy lifting you would have to do is moving the fermenter. I do this for my brew day and it is well worth it. If you want a suggestion for a pot check out:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/brewing-equipment/brew-kettles/megapot-with-ball-valve-brewmometer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/brewing-equipment/brew-kettles/megapot-with-ball-valve-brewmometer.html&lt;/a&gt;  It will be the last brewpot you will ever buy. And for an immersion wort chiller:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/standard-chiller-3-8-x25-with-vinyl-tubing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/standard-chiller-3-8-x25-with-vinyl-tubing.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little bit of money will streamline your process and save you in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T04:23:02.450" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9835" CreationDate="2013-04-26T06:15:54.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do you mash inside and boil outside?  I brew in keggles - 13-15 gallon boils, 10-12 gallon fermentations.  Fermentation is in two 6.5 gallon buckets which aren't too difficult to move (6.5 gallons weigh 52 pounds).  I brew in the garage and ferment in the house, about 100' away and up 8 steps.  I would like to switch to one 15 gallon fermentor, but I don't know how I would move it up the stairs.  I'll probably build a temp-controlled fermentation chamber in the garage which will kill two birds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="738" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T06:15:54.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9803" CreationDate="2013-04-28T14:20:41.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wet carboard flavour = Oxidized&#xA;I'm an expert at this one because I had to bottle without using a bottling wand so the beer got oxygenated as it was going into the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3378" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T14:20:41.403" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-28T14:20:41.403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9844" CreationDate="2013-04-28T14:53:18.370" Score="4" ViewCount="942" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a moderately experienced homebrewer, and recently I've been making a lot of imperial stouts--variations on the same recipe, hoping to dial it in. Decently strong ones: my OG is usually around 1.111, and I finish between 1.030 and 1.037 (I'm aiming for a sweeter stout, so that's fine). I pitch 2 rehydrated packs of Safale S-04 (new) per 5 gallon batch. I primary until it's done fermenting actively, transfer to a keg for secondary, and let it age for 1-2 months before crashing in the cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have a persistent alcoholic/solventy flavor when I first try the beers. This has happened 3 times now. Really hits you in the back of the nose when you sip/inhale over the beer. The rest of the flavors are fine; no weird yeast making nasty tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that this is typically a fermentation temperature issue, but the odd thing is that, if anything, most of these beers ferment a little low (I have a poorly heated room for fermentation in the winter, so even with a water bath, the temps tend to stick between 58F and 63F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing these alcoholic/solventy flavors? Should I lower the primary temperature still more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I've been taking the beer out of the water bath when it's done with primary and letting it secondary in the air. This might lead the temperatures to get somewhat higher during the days (though never more to 70F, and typically not for more than an hour or two). Could this be when/where the off flavor develops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be a symptom of stressed yeast? Should I pitch more/re-pitch during fermentation?&#xA;Alternatively, is this a typical &quot;young beer&quot; problem with strong stouts, and one that will fade with time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2232" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T10:13:00.797" Title="How to prevent solventy/overly alcoholic flavors?" Tags="|off-flavor|stout|alcohol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6755" CreationDate="2013-04-28T17:59:10.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 80s UK, Boots, the chemists, who already sold home brew kits, developed a yeast that settled at the bottom of bottles as a gel. Unlike the sediment you're used to, that is disturbed when you tip the bottle, this just sat there. Friends, who used to avoid my home brew, said things like, Wow this tastes like real beer. it was clear and sparkling. For some reason they dropped out of the home brew market and I've not been able to find anything like their gel yeast. Instead, I have developed a technique to minimise sediment. It's a long game - it involves long periods of settlement and secondary fermentation. Basically, after the bucket stage, I decant the 40 pints to a pressure barrel for 3 weeks, I then decant off from that, 8 pints into a demijohn and let that settle for up to 3 months. Finings can be added, although this can take a while to clear. Finally, I bottle the beer and leave for another 3 months minimum. At no point is sugar added. I use only malt or malt extract and hops. No initial brew sugar, no bottle priming. The beer has enough harder to ferment carbohydrates to make a good beer given time. That's it. Obviously it's a long wait for a pint but once you get into a routine, you end up with a steady supply. Just need more storage vessels and space. Cleanliness is paramount of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3381" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T17:59:10.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9843" CreationDate="2013-04-28T20:18:15.487" Score="1" ViewCount="706" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is my second beer batch. My first beer batch turned out well as an Irish Stout, using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/irish-stout.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Midwest Brewing kit and recipie &lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I just started a White House Honey Ale I'm currently brewing a White House Honey Ale using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/white-house-honey-ale-beer-kit.html#Details_tab&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this kit&lt;/a&gt;. I started this brew a week ago, 4/21, and opened it up for the first time today.  I used dry yeast per the recipe. I have the following observations and questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no layer of krausen on the top of the fermenter. Is this normal/expected in some cases? Because of this, should I re-pitch yeast into the primary fermentation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My original gravity reading prior to fermentation was 1.020. The recipe sheet mentions  an SG of 1.058-1.060 - so was something wrong to begin with with this batch of beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The reading on my hydrometer today is 1.010, which is within the range of the  expected final gravity on the recipe sheet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;big&lt;/strong&gt; question. Based on this evidence, my first inclination is to say that fermentation did happen, and I should move the beer into a carboy for further fermentation. Is this what you would recommend in this sitauation, or would you suggest a different course of action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final note: in both the Irish stout and this batch of beer, I didnt see any bubbling in the airlock. From what I've searched on this website, this may be &quot;normal&quot; as some of the 5 gallon food grade containers or seals dont have very good seals, so my first impression is that fermentation probably did happen, I just dont see the fermentation because i'm dealing with leaky equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3168" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T02:05:21.620" Title="Expected Hydrometer Reading for White House Honey Ale?" Tags="|beer|hydrometer|krausen|honey|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9842" CreationDate="2013-04-28T21:52:50.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original gravity reading was probably low due to insufficient mixing. Unless you stir the wort vigorously for a good while,  it will stratify with sugary wort at the bottom and thin wort at the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9808/sg-and-og-quite-different-to-values-indicated-on-can-label/9812#9812&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for more details about why your starting gravity might be low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final gravity reading is probably correct. Did you taste the beer that you used to take a hydrometer reading? If it tastes like beer, then fermentation is complete. Leave the beer for a another week to let the yeast clean up (or rack it to a carboy, if that's what you do), and then bottle or keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T21:52:50.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9840" CreationDate="2013-04-29T10:13:00.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem could be from temperature, alcohol tolerance and pitching rates. While the solvent character will fade with time to some degree, it can take a many months to do so and will not completely disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I can't find published figures from Fermentis, S-04 has reportedly an alcohol tolerance of 10-11% in various forums. Your 1.111 beer gives 12% abv so you are definitely at the upper end of what this yeast can do, which in itself may produce more higher alcohols. You might want to try knocking this back to 1.095.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 Packets of rehydrated yeast will give 360 billion cells. (Assuming 90% viability since they are new.) For a 1.111 beer, Beersmith says you will need 480 billion cells, so this is quite a significant underpitch. Also with bigger beers you need proportionally more yeast - you really do need lots of healthy yeast for these beers to ferment clean. You can either pitch 3 sachets, or brew a regular strength beer and pitch the the yeast cake from that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not using yeast nutrient blend, that would be a good idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A temperature controller would also help. The natural temperature fluctuations in a house do stress the yeast to some extent for normal gravity beers, and that is emphasized with high gravity beers. The ambient temperature of 58F is definitely on the low side - S-04 has a recommended minimum of 59F - although with a beer this big the beer temperature could easily be higher during the first couple of days of fermentation.  If Temperature Control is not an option now, you could try storing the carboy in a large bath of water - this will help smooth out the fluctuations and keep the beer temperature at the average temperature of your house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T10:13:00.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9848" CreationDate="2013-04-29T11:44:42.067" Score="1" ViewCount="1659" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you think of any scenario (apart from errors of the measurement tools) where gravity actually goes down during boil. Normally, due to the loss of water, gravity should always go up. During our last brew session, we measured lower post-boil gravity (1.058) than pre-boil (1.068) and we're quite puzzled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How we took the samples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pre-boil: pipette from top of stirred boiling pot.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Post-boil: pipette from first drawings after whirlpool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3029" LastEditorUserId="3029" LastEditDate="2013-04-29T12:26:35.323" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T13:34:01.743" Title="Gravity going down during boil. How can it happen?" Tags="|boil|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9845" CreationDate="2013-04-29T12:02:09.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;from where did you take the sample? &#xA;I am guessing you hadn't stirred the wort before you took the sample from the bottom of the brew pot, where the gravity will be the highest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2637" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T12:02:09.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9849" CreationDate="2013-04-29T13:09:06.123" Score="3" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess it depends on how the brewery is organized, but I am mostly referring to small breweries. Since the fermentation takes several days (and will keep equipment busy for several days) and mashing/boiling a few hours, do they mash every day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T16:33:08.060" Title="Do commercial breweries mash every day?" Tags="|brewery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9845" CreationDate="2013-04-29T13:26:10.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: its &lt;em&gt;impossible&lt;/em&gt; for the gravity to decrease during boil. You only evaporate water, leaving an increasingly sugary solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there is an error with your preboil postboil or both gravity readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most common reasons for incorrect readings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incomplete Mixings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failure to to a temperature adjustment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Related to the second - Uncalibrated hydrometer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-04-29T13:34:01.743" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T13:34:01.743" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9847" CreationDate="2013-04-29T14:01:44.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the breweries. But most of them have a significant number of fermenters, and they will need to do multiple brews to fill up the fermenters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, one of the new &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beyondthepale.ca/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;breweries&lt;/a&gt; in my area has to do two brews to fill up a fermenter and they normally do this on subsequent days. Since they're small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a larger &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beaus.ca/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewery&lt;/a&gt; near me, literally has a round the clock brewing cycle, so they have two shifts (or more) of brewers, but still a craft brewery. They have a LOT of fermenters, and they can barely cope with demand, mainly because it's a lagered ale as their primary beer (a Kolsch, but not made in Koln) so they have longer fermentations and a cold room for conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other smaller breweries will only brew if they have space and demand, any risk of the beer not being sold will reduce the amount of brews they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's other &lt;a href=&quot;http://broadheadbeer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;places&lt;/a&gt; which have enough downtime in their brewing schedule that they do Contract Brewing, so &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.ottawacitizen.com/2013/03/24/ottawa-welcomes-its-latest-craft-beer-turtle-island-brewing-co-to-launch-this-summer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;someone&lt;/a&gt; will pay them to brew on their behalf (and they say they're a brewery, which I have problems with ;)) and the results of that beer will be made and fermented and the contracted brewery and there'll be a time frame where the beer has to be removed from the brewery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T14:01:44.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9847" CreationDate="2013-04-29T14:01:53.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You typically have several times more fermentation capacity than brew capacity so that the process can run continually if desired. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some breweries have fermentation capacities exceeding millions of liters, but their brew capacity will be a fraction of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T14:01:53.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-29T15:31:55.670" Score="4" ViewCount="1480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the 'general' answers:  &quot;it allows the yeast to 'clean up' compounds&quot;, &quot;it allows the beer to 'condition'&quot;, &quot;it allows the flavors to come together&quot;, none of which I am satisfied with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: given proper-to-over pitch rates, cold-pitching (to minimize acetaldehyde/diacetyl production and precursors), and careful monitoring of fermentation temperature, is there any practical reason that homebrewers cannot turn beers around quickly, like in a commercial brewery?  Is it diastatic pressure?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I made a California Common last fall, and was just below a lager pitch rate for a 5G batch.  Pitched at 60*, fermented there for 4 days, fermented 4 more days raising up slowly (2-3*/day) to 70*, cold-crashed for 12 hours, gelatin, racked, quick-carbed and served.  And it was great.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not saying I didn't get lucky on the above-batch, but for any beer below say 6% alcohol, I would love some information on what is happening to the beer after FG is reached.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2013-04-29T19:45:34.040" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T20:08:57.453" Title="What is the benefit of long fermentations/leaving beer on yeast for weeks?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9854" CreationDate="2013-04-29T16:29:55.120" Score="3" ViewCount="1804" Body="&lt;p&gt;I build a fermentation chamber that has a small computer fan that is equipped with tiny blue led lights. Is it only UV light that can skunk a beer? What would the effect of this frequently run fan light be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2711" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T11:55:15.193" Title="How little light can spoil a beer?" Tags="|fermentation|fermenter|light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9851" CreationDate="2013-04-29T16:39:20.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reality is that unless you filter you will have yeast in your beer. Based upon the yeast the recipe of the beer etc. you will end up with different by-products from fermentation which the yeast can degrade. These don't include fusel alcohols (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fusel_alcohol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fusel_alcohol&lt;/a&gt;) which to my knowledge can't be broken down by yeast, but instead recombine with each other over time to make esters and other compounds which smooth out the taste. But attenuation and mouthfeel etc. can change dramatically depending upon how long you let the beer sit in the bottle with yeast or on the yeast cake in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The really serious problem would be to bottle a stuck fermentation, but if you measure gravities and let the beer hit what you expected from your final gravity you would be fine bottling or kegging. Low gravity beers should be fine for this kind of treatment. It is really only with higher gravity beers and for some adjuncts that you would want to age/condition on a yeast cake. I had a rye beer which was about 60% rye and it was viscous like motor oil soon after bottling, but became much less viscous over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T16:39:20.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9852" CreationDate="2013-04-29T17:54:41.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is some great information about beer skunking based upon wavelengths of light (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.safespectrum.com/applications_beer_wine.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.safespectrum.com/applications_beer_wine.php&lt;/a&gt;). UV is the strongest light source that will cause beer skunking. However visible light, specifically anything under 500nm or thereabouts, are threats for beer skunking. And from this page (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oksolar.com/led/led_color_chart.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.oksolar.com/led/led_color_chart.htm&lt;/a&gt;) you can see that blue light emitting diodes (LEDs) have their wavelengths under 500nms (470 or 420nms). Thus the blue lights on the fan could be a problem, but based upon the exposure time and brightness of the lights will determine the effect on the beer. Pale colored beers and very hoppy beers will have the most dramatic effect if there is an effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why don't you just replace the fan with the lights with a normal fan, or place the computer on the outside of the fermenter. Also aren't you worried about the heat production by the computer? Or the possibility of the fermenter blowing off and ruining your computer? Seems like it would be prudent to place the computer on the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastEditorUserId="3396" LastEditDate="2013-05-02T11:55:15.193" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T11:55:15.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9851" CreationDate="2013-04-29T20:08:57.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It comes down to the amount of control you have over the process. A typical homebrewer fermenting in a basement, pitching yeast directly from a small sachet or vial is dealing with variable temperature and variable viability/pitching rates, and so doesn't have as much control as a commercial brewery, which is the main reason why turn around times are typically longer for the homebrewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you have temperature control, in which case you have several key benefits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;constant beer temperature, which helps reduce the amount of unwanted flavors in the beer caused by fluctuating temperature, producing a cleaner beer from the outset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the ability to ramp up at the end of ferementation, encouraging the yeast to continue to metabolize and clean up the beer, when they would normally drop out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the ability to then crash cool in place, and rack off a fairly clear beer with most of the yeast and proteins dropped out, removing the flavor these would impart.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, with temperature control you do have the ability to turn around beer in a shorter time than without.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am building a temperature controller for these reasons - to be able to better control the fermentation process and reduce turnaround time for my beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T20:08:57.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9788" CreationDate="2013-04-29T21:39:12.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This method definitely works. I have used it many times in Australian summers, with the water temperature hovering around 23degC, regardless of air temperature swings. I have never resorted to adding ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T21:39:12.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9859" CreationDate="2013-04-30T13:25:24.887" Score="1" ViewCount="4704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried looking for duplicates to this question, but can't quite find a single question that covers it, so here goes (pls let me know if I've missed one)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last night I tasted the first bottle of my first ever homebrew! It was just an extract kit (Coopers Real Ale), and I was quite pleased by it. The only thing that surprised me was the complete lack of head when I poured the beer. The beer was carbonated, at least reasonably I thought, and tasted good (I think), so at the moment all I can think of is that the glass was the problem. (Brand new beer glasses, but washed in the dishwasher.... could the rinse aid be the culprit?)&#xA;I only bottled a week ago (so 6 days conditioning before I opened), but like I say, the carbonation seemed good to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something else that might have caused this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Thanks for the advice so far, going to wait a little longer and see if further conditioning sorts me out...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bottle #2: cleaned a glass by hand, and bottle had an extra 2 days conditioning, and I may have &quot;cheated&quot; and poured a little more vigorously :) Muuuuch better head, not much retention, but certainly no worse than the local mass-produced lagers. Holding thumbs for bottle #3...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3304" LastEditorUserId="3304" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T17:53:57.863" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T09:52:19.010" Title="Well carbonated, but no head" Tags="|carbonation|head|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9857" CreationDate="2013-04-30T13:39:35.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rinse aid could be the culprit, the main killer of head however, is oils, any oils. My first extract kit did not have noticeable head either, and a lot of my beers now, still don't have head, because I'm focusing on the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This that can help help are carapils/carafoam speciality grain, but these should be used to make beer better, not as a focus point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: There's a lot of reasons for no head, I just went for the common one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastEditorUserId="3295" LastEditDate="2013-04-30T14:07:56.333" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T14:07:56.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9857" CreationDate="2013-04-30T13:40:37.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes rinse aid could be the problem here but before we jump there I think you need to wait a bit longer. After six days there is a slim chance your beer isn't even fully carbonated yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've found is that it takes a at least a week, but usually two to actually develop a nice tight head. For a while you may have OK carbonation and loose big bubbles that look nothing like a typical head. In this case I say give it another week (or even two, because why not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Head is a product of proteins in the beer, and if you pitched good healthy yeast you should be okay in the long run. While glassware is important, I don't think its your issue after only 6 days conditioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T13:40:37.113" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9867" CreationDate="2013-04-30T14:57:25.867" Score="8" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I oftes see videos where people describe (what I believe is hop-related aroma) with words like spicy, floral, citrusy, etc., but for me it is very hard to get (and to tell apart) any of this. So what are the main aromas that describes hops, and most important, how can I train my nose to recognize at least the main hop-realted aromas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T19:37:02.100" Title="How to train my nose for hop aromas?" Tags="|hops|aroma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9860" CreationDate="2013-04-30T15:03:17.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A great way to learn the distinct flavors of hops/grains is SMaSH (Single Malt and Single hop) brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By using a single grain and a single hop you can really focus on one flavor at a time. So if you make a beer that is 100% cascade, you can expect to taste a flowery and spicy, grapefruit flavor. Once you get a feel for what that tastes like move on to a new hop. Using this method over several varieties of hops can really train you to look for a distinct aromas and flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to really get a good feel for flavors is experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T15:03:17.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9869" CreationDate="2013-04-30T15:38:33.007" Score="2" ViewCount="2938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not necessarily looking for a flavor add from the maple, but I want to carbonate my beer with some pure Vermont maple syrup that my brother harvested and prepared. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm comfortable with the amount I'll use, but I'm not sure exactly how to add it to my beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically bottle prime with sucrose, which I dilute in 2 cups of boiling water, let chill and then mix into the beer in my bottling bucket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the same process apply for maple syrup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3371" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T19:11:49.850" Title="How to prime with maple syrup?" Tags="|bottling|priming|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-30T15:55:51.047" Score="0" ViewCount="456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started brewing again as I was bought some new kit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 gallon fermenting bucket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 gallon plastic keg with tap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first time I've brewed without bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just got my wort into secondary and I'm concerned that when secondary is complete my first few pints will be nice, and then as the pressure lowers in the keg they'll be flat! Am I right in thinking this will be the case? I've heard that I need something to keep the pressure up in the empty space of the keg when it comes to drinking it. I did add a bit of sugar as per instructions for secondary but I don't think it's going to be enough to keep the beer carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3390" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T17:01:07.927" Title="Keeping pressure in secondary keg" Tags="|carbonation|keg|secondary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9862" CreationDate="2013-04-30T15:56:41.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would need to determine the fermentability of your particular maple syrup and compare it to a typical priming sugar. I've read multiple sources that claim maple syrup is anywhere from 65%-100% fermentable so really its all dependent on the maple syrup you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common number I've heard is 65% So if you believe your syrup to be 65% fermentable you will need to use 7.69oz (5/.65) of Maple syrup to get the same amount of carbonation. This is of course based on the rule of thumb calculation of 1oz per 1gal of sucrose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to follow this &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/brewery/library/YPrimerMH.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Home Brew Digest&lt;/a&gt; Link you should increase your priming addition by 50% for maple syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as how to add, I would dilute your syrup to pouring consistency and pasteurize the amount you are planning on using by bring it to a near boil. Then you can batch prime the entire volume of beer / bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T13:34:17.490" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T13:34:17.490" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9863" CreationDate="2013-04-30T16:34:41.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you are correct. Without some other source of C02, the beer will lose pressure as the level drops, and it will stop coming out of the keg altogether soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you post a link to the &quot;5 gallon plastic keg with tap&quot; in question? I can't imagine why anyone would sell a keg that can't be charged, and I've never heard of a 5gal plastic keg vessel either. I used to use a &quot;Party Pig&quot;, but that was about 2.5gal, and it included a mechanism to push out the beer over its life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update - here's the description from the site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A good first barrel or can be used to leave finished brews in for&#xA;  maturing. The pressure release valve will withstand around 10 p.s.i.&#xA;  and can easily be replaced with a gas injector valve cap at a later&#xA;  date if required. An easy pour tap is fitted at the bottom of the&#xA;  barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So theoretically, you could prime this keg with sugar when you rack the beer in, let it carbonate, and then use the gas injector valve cap to add enough C02 to maintain about 10PSI, which would keep the beer dispensing properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2013-05-07T17:01:07.927" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T17:01:07.927" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9868" CreationDate="2013-04-30T17:56:03.587" Score="2" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that filtering requires two kegs. I've only got one corny keg but I'd like to filter my brew with a canister or plate filter. Do I risk overly oxidizing the beer if I were to filter from a keg into a carboy, then siphon the carboy back into the keg for force carbonation and serving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Matt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3392" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T02:04:46.030" Title="Filtering using a keg and a carboy instead of two kegs" Tags="|kegging|filtering|oxidation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9860" CreationDate="2013-04-30T19:37:02.100" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some hands on learning with less effort required than brewing several SMASH batches, you can dry hop some bland beer as explained &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2013/03/dry-hopped-bud-light.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I did not write that nor have I tried it yet but it looks like an interesting experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2982" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T19:37:02.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9866" CreationDate="2013-05-01T02:04:46.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't necessarily pick up more oxygen, if you purge both the keg, carboy and filter with CO2. Purging will minimize the exposure to oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you'd need 3 transfers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rack from the carboy to the keg (only the keg will handle pressure.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;from the keg, through the filter, to the carboy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finally, rack from the carboy to the keg again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this many rackings, I'd be more concerned with contamination than any ingress of oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can ferment in the keg, then you could in principle save one racking and filter directly from the keg to the carboy, and then transfer back to the keg (after cleaning it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can filter without requiring CO2 pressure in the carboy, you can then filter directly from the carboy to the keg. For example, you may be able to use gravity feed to provide the necessary pressure, although you may need as much as 10-15 feet height difference to get 5-7 psi needed to get a slow flow through the filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, wait with the filter until you get more kegs and for the time being use finings, such as gelatine, which have almost as good affect. Add these to the carboy a few days before racking and the beer will be substantially clearer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T02:04:46.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9862" CreationDate="2013-05-01T13:40:11.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking about how to add the syrup, my concern would be contaminants, not necessarily in the syrup itself, but in the bottle, and around the cap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would handle it just like you handle sugar - add to some water, boil and then add that to the bottling bucket. That will ensure it's sanitary. I usually prime into a bucket that's already siphoned to 1/4 full with the batch of beer, so the solution doesn't just hit the bottom, and the continued siphoning of beer into the bucket will provide a natural stirring motion which mixes it well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T19:11:49.850" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T19:11:49.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5245" CreationDate="2013-05-01T19:28:34.950" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Botulism toxin is the only &quot;infection&quot; I've heard about in the brewing community that would be potentially hazardous, but it's only a concern for canning wort. If you're not growing  yeast starters in home-canned wort, it's non-issue. And even if you are, the topic is often debated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it (and I'm definitely no expert), the problem is that botulinum spores (which are in just about everything that grows in dirt) aren't destroyed during normal boiling. Say you boil some wort for canning. Unless you're using a 15psi pressure cooker, the wort never reaches the &lt;strong&gt;240*F&lt;/strong&gt; mark needed to destroy the spores. The spores themselves aren't dangerous, but they release botulism toxin during reproduction. If you pitched yeast in this wort, the spores would never have a chance to reproduce and you'd be fine. Without the yeast, though, the spores can find themselves in a happy environment (once the wort cools) and begin reproducing. Once released, the toxins produced during by the spores can't be destroyed by any amount of boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said: it's rare. In fact, I've never heard about it happening. But every thread I've seen about canning wort includes a discussion on botulism. So to answer your question: yes, it is theoretically possible to get sick from a &quot;bad&quot; beer. I think it's more likely that someone would die of alcohol poisoning from too many 'infected' beers than to get botulism poisoning from one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3391" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T19:28:34.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9872" CreationDate="2013-05-02T02:38:12.863" Score="1" ViewCount="8616" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the record, I am using some storebought kegs, but figure you guys know more about all of this than I do.  &lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I checked the internet and the couplers to the keg are of the sanke variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the deal:  I have a two tap kegerator and the aggressive amount of foaming is wrecking my beer drinking experience.  I've got the CO2 set to the lowest setting the regulator will allow (4psi) and it's kicking out SO much foam, I am unsure what to fix now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't run the tubing in the kegerator very elegantly.  But I am opening the tap as fast as possible and doing everything else you would (glass angle, etc.)  But the foam that fires out of the tap right now is just so... aggressive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3395" LastEditorUserId="3395" LastEditDate="2013-05-03T01:23:29.037" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T10:32:27.547" Title="Aggressive foam from Keg" Tags="|kegging|co2|foam|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9871" CreationDate="2013-05-02T03:38:52.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The excess foam is because there's too much pressure. There are two things I would try. The first is easy - turn off the CO2 and let the pressure in the keg push the beer out. If the sanke coupler has a release valve, you can use that to bleed off the excess CO2.* Once you have released the pressure and your problem should go away. Once it goes down, turn the CO2 back on and set to 4-5 so your beer doesn't go flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can try is to use a longer piece of beer line tubing. How long are you using now? For corny kegs 6' is generally fine, but for sankes like you have, 10' is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Edited to include suggestion from &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/1599/tobias-patton&quot;&gt;Tobias Patton&lt;/a&gt; in comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T04:58:07.040" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="286" CreationDate="2013-05-02T15:46:08.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;PBW + hot water (I believe 140°F is the recommended temp) has always worked for me on stainless steel parts. You may need to replace the plastic parts, i.e. tubing, if line cleaner or PBW doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T15:46:08.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9871" CreationDate="2013-05-02T19:38:43.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the comments regarding pressure (which I agree is the most likely cause; Even if you've turned down the pressure, the actual pressure in the keg won't go down until it's released through the tap or a relief valve), I'd also ask what the conditions of your beer line are. The line &amp;amp; faucet should be cleaned regularly with cleaner (something like PBW or BLC), then rinsed with clean water, and finally sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3391" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T19:38:43.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="286" CreationDate="2013-05-02T19:42:36.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest marking the root-beer smelling lines as your soda equipment and get new &quot;beer-only&quot; lines. You might be able to get the smell out of the plastic with enough heat and time, but they're cheap materials. All the expensive metal parts that came in contact should be fine. Be sure to consider your keg's seals, it's possible you're getting some aroma from the poppet o-rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3391" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T19:42:36.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7621" CreationDate="2013-05-03T05:10:05.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you remember if it smelled like that before you kegged the beer? My first corny kegs smelled like sweet lemon-lime when I got them from BeverageFactory.com. Apparently it's so common that midwest mentions it in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/pin-lock-5-gallon-reconditioned-keg.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their descriptions&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Our technicians have also cleaned each keg with a caustic soda rinse&#xA;  – but even so – the keg may retain a sweet smell similar to a&#xA;  lemon-lime soft drink.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I used either PBW or Oxiclean with hot water and it got it out though, probably PBW since they were new and so dirty. I guess it's possible it was your dry hop, but in my experience citrus/lemon from a hops is very different from this smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T05:10:05.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9880" CreationDate="2013-05-03T08:48:21.093" Score="2" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any online place to get as much information as possible about hops. For example alpha and beta acids, cohumulone content, aroma progile and any other possibly useful information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did my himework and I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrew4less.com/docs/Hops_Cross-Reference_Chart.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt;, but it is sometimes vague and lacks lot of information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T17:47:23.690" Title="Online hops reference" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9879" CreationDate="2013-05-03T09:02:38.460" Score="2" ViewCount="9621" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love Rochefort 10, Chimay (to a lower degree), and some other belgian beers. So I would like to try to do something similar, or just take some inspiration from them. What are the most commonly used hops for belgian trappist or abbey beer style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T01:35:37.277" Title="hops for belgian trappist/abbey beers" Tags="|hops|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9878" CreationDate="2013-05-03T12:05:00.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything &quot;Noble&quot; that's not a typical American hop like Cascade/Centenial/Chinook/Columbus etc. I'd use Hallertaur, Spalt, Tett, Vanguard, Perle, etc. Basically any of the classic German hops, or their modern equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly in those styles, you just want a touch of hop bitterness to cut the sweetness of the malt. Not many of those beers present much hop flavor. I understand that some styles (like Tripel) are actually a little hoppier when consumed relatively fresh in Belgium, but if you are trying to duplicate the taste of an older, imported bottle, then keep the hop flavor barely detectable and the IBU's in the 10-20 range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T12:05:00.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9877" CreationDate="2013-05-03T12:55:48.540" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not in particular.  I've compiled one from multiple sources, both paper and digital, for &lt;a href=&quot;http://brew-journal.com/hops/&quot;&gt;http://brew-journal.com/hops/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Hops&quot;&gt;http://homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Hops&lt;/a&gt; is one of the better sources.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/resources/hops&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/resources/hops&lt;/a&gt; too, but poor ui. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_hop_varieties&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_hop_varieties&lt;/a&gt; of course has an article that's suprisingly complete, except for the lack of quantitative information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's been an explosion in varieties in the last year or so that aren't listed in a lot of places.  zythos, greenburg, Polaris, Ivanhoe, Merkur, Mosaic, Kohatu, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T12:55:48.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9883" CreationDate="2013-05-03T13:40:47.900" Score="1" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will soon need to buy some more equipment, but I want to think it a little bit what I really need to buy and in the meantime I will try some workaround.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of brewing mash/extract recipes, so my idea was (for a 1.050OG beer, 10l volume):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash at a &quot;normal&quot; OG around 1.050s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil th wort for 45 minutes (5l of wort more or less)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the malt extract for the last 15 minutes (to achieve almost double gravity, let's say 1.100)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dilute high gravity wort with 5 more liters to get final volume of 10 litres.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bitterness extraction could be different (but I will assume effect is negligible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My real question is, will it be a bad idea to mix malt extract toward the end of the boil? Will I get bad flavors from shortly boiled extract?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other possible issue, or maybe a better method for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-05-04T12:36:25.263" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T00:59:36.700" Title="How to make more beer than I can boil?" Tags="|equipment|mash|boil|extract|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9881" CreationDate="2013-05-03T14:04:30.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most starter kits are based on low volume boils, but boiling the entire volume of the malt extract for the full boil, this aids with proteins I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb that a few of my friends use is never go further than doubling the volume by dilution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 5 litres -&gt; 10 litres is OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have other friends who use all the burners on their cooker and they will create a full boil with smaller volumes and chill each independently then mix and aerate together in the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't say I've ever tasted beer with extract added towards the end, I haven't seen many recipe kit instructions but the ones I have put all the Malt Extract in for the full boil time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T14:04:30.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9881" CreationDate="2013-05-03T14:15:02.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just recently looked into this for our local club. From what I read, there were no negative effects from late extract additions. In fact, I found several articles specifically advising it. They refer to adding a small amount of extract to start (some say 15-20%, Papazian says 1lb:1gallon), but I imagine the same principles hold true for your scenario. The obvious caveat is sanitation: make sure the late extract is boiled long enough (15 minutes is good) and that your top-off water is clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/02/20/better-beer-with-late-malt-extract-additions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Better Beer with Late Malt Extract Additions&quot;&gt;BeerSmith has a brief article&lt;/a&gt; on it that points out this will have a significant effect on hop utilization. He also points out that BeerSmith has a Late Extract Addition option that will recalculate IBUs accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3391" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T14:15:02.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9792" CreationDate="2013-05-03T19:51:07.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something like this perhapss?   &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/3841&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/3841&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3371" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T19:51:07.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-04T15:25:23.280" Score="1" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am half dozen or so batches into my homebrewing &quot;career&quot; (Saison du Buff, Jasmine IPA and Midas Touch among my highlights) I found a recipe for a darker saison. I made some modifications (chocolate malt &amp;amp; vanilla bean), but I am confused/nervous about fermentation. Recipe says 105 days in primary, but that seems ABSOLUTELY INSANE to me. I am thinking about going standard 2ish weeks in the bucket then transferring to carboy to ride out the remaining 90ish days. Am I daft for thinking 105 days of primary seems odd? Or should I skip the bucket, go straight into carboy and pitch into it and do the full 105 there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3402" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T00:36:02.767" Title="105 Day Fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|carboy|saison|bucket|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9886" CreationDate="2013-05-04T16:42:03.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my dealings with Saison yeast they take a bloody long time to finish primary fermentation, 105 days doesn't sound untoward to me. You'll find that it'll be slowly bubbling for the whole time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's definitely a patience yeast, and you'll probably want to make enough so you can check the gravity every 3-4 weeks to ensure it's still going (and to give you peace of mind)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2013-05-04T16:42:03.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9886" CreationDate="2013-05-04T18:00:59.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used WY 3724 in my last saison. My records show 60 days to go from 1.053 to 1.005, but I kept the temperature at 88 F. for most of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first few days, the yeast is very active. However, the krausen falls, and the yeast slows down once 50% apparent attenuation is reached. If you raise the temperature and are patient, the yeast will keep going and show some impressive attenuation numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-05-04T18:00:59.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9893" CreationDate="2013-05-05T00:02:24.870" Score="11" ViewCount="3394" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is the Erlenmeyer style flask the automatic go to for yeast starters? I know people use other containers besides flasks, and some flasks don't have flat bottoms but is there something special about the shape or angle of the sides? Just thought this was a good question to throw out there and see what comes back!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2017-11-27T07:27:58.783" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T17:21:09.323" Title="Why an Erlenmeyer flask?" Tags="|yeast-starters|stir-plate|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9886" CreationDate="2013-05-05T00:36:02.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What yeast are you using? &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've had 2-3 month primaries with saisons in the past, nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=60&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=60&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This strain is notorious for a rapid and vigorous start to fermentation, only to stick around 1.035 S.G. Fermentation will finish, given time and warm temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3403" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T00:36:02.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9881" CreationDate="2013-05-05T00:59:36.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bitterness extraction will be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; different, so make sure to use a calculator that can adjust for things like that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3403" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T00:59:36.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2013-05-05T15:12:00.497" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speaking from experience as a molecular biologist. Erlenmeyer flasks are nice for a couple of reasons. The main alternative being a standard beaker which is essentially the same size at the top and the bottom. First off the neck size makes it easy to hold in the hand. Second a smaller opening reduces the chance of getting airborne material into the flask. Third try swirling around some liquid in a normal beaker and then an Erlenmeyer flask, the narrow neck on the flask keeps the liquid inside the vessel better than a beaker. Fourth, when doing biological cultures you want to keep the media aerated and the wide bottom of the flask allows you to keep a high surface area with which to introduce air. Finally, the narrow neck allows us to use smaller stoppers which reduce the chance of contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Altogether these reasons are why we use Erlenmeyer flasks in the lab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2017-11-27T14:16:11.000" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T14:16:11.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-05T15:20:39.813" Score="3" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed differences in bottle necks which may affect my capping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was merrily capping away with standard 12oz bottles with my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/red-baron-emily-capper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Red Baron capper&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to bottle hard cider in green bottles, and again was wailing away until I hit the case of Heinekens. The neck flange is shallow, the cap did not dimple as it did with bottles from Sam Adams, Dogfish Head, etc. When I gave them the twist test, the cap turned. It felt tight, but it turned; the caps on the 'standard' bottles (the ones with the long flange) did not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick or adjustment I can use with wing cappers, or do I need to move to a bench capper? I don't want to move to a bench capper, because I would have to adjust it each time I cap a bottle of different height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside: I got a case of Stella Artois bottles; the thick neck goes up to the crown, so my old wing capper did not snug to the flange. A retired brewer gave me the Red Baron, which worked fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious answer is: KEG! The other one is to use only &quot;standard&quot; bottles, but some of the bottles are distinctive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I am looking for answers about bottle/capper interfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3179" LastEditorUserId="2725" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T16:37:47.727" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T16:37:47.727" Title="Variations in Recycled Crown Bottles" Tags="|capping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9894" CreationDate="2013-05-05T21:15:29.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's a single easy solution to your issue with hand cappers, you may need to keep the two types around to cover as many as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Bench Capper would work fine for you, just sort the bottles by height and that way when it comes to capping you won't need to change the height as frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's not really a clear cap interface specification, manufacturers make their bottles different so that their bottles go back to them and not to other companies, or homebrewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T21:15:29.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2013-05-05T21:20:26.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason that I know of is that Erlynmeyer flasks are normally pyrex, or made from a substance which means you can heat it on the stove so you can reduce the risk of getting unsanitary conditions in your starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T21:20:26.267" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9907" CreationDate="2013-05-05T22:26:04.283" Score="1" ViewCount="796" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought two reconditioned 5 gal pin lock kegs. When I filled them up with hot water to clean them out I noticed that the rubber boot at the top of one of them was completely loose - it's only being held on by the poppet valve stems.  I plan to remove the poppet valves and try to glue the boot back on... Does anyone know what type of glue would work best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T22:25:38.360" Title="Rubber Keg Boot Glue Recommendation" Tags="|keg|corny-keg|kegs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9842" CreationDate="2013-05-06T02:05:21.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upon brewing another beer today and looking at the hydrometer carefully (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/hydrometer-triplescale.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;), I believe I made an error in measurement and read off of the Brix scale, not the  and measured using the brix scale, not the gravity scale. 20 brix is about equivalent to 1.080 hydrometer - this doesnt make &lt;em&gt;complete&lt;/em&gt; sense, but I am guessing a higher measurement of 1.080 was measured due to incomplete mixing (I added 1 gallon extra water to the batch). This is my theory at least. Tobias still deserves the credit for the answer, I'm posting this for completeness in case someone else ends up with the same situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3168" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T02:05:21.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9894" CreationDate="2013-05-06T07:28:22.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can loosen the capper bell a few  turns, that way it will press lower and give a tight seal on those bottles that have a shallow flange. I do this all the time on those annoying, but beautiful bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2637" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T07:28:22.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9897" CreationDate="2013-05-06T11:43:26.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of people using the adhesive for car mouldings to do this.  They said its available at most autoparts stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3407" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T11:43:26.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9897" CreationDate="2013-05-06T12:55:30.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001C02FW8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;liquid nails&lt;/a&gt; does a nice job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1062" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T12:55:30.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-06T13:38:03.677" Score="3" ViewCount="5386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know about spruce, and pine is a really close relative, so it seems legit to me. I was planning to use the brown part in the picture, which has a really nice smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AVUcr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like some advices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I use it with no health risk?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When to put it in boil? I read a recipe suggesting to boil it 60 minutes, what bout boiling it for 15 or 30 minutes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="2869" LastEditDate="2013-05-06T15:40:36.840" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T17:26:00.220" Title="Using pine in beer" Tags="|flavoring|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9902" CreationDate="2013-05-06T13:44:54.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I've never done this before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read about it however and from what I understand you will get the most flavor from the needles rather then the cone. Not sure how much bitterness you would extract, all the recipes I've seen also use a hop for bittering. I'm sure its possible, after all we didn't use hops in our beer for centuries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be no health risk to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to boil time and amount, I have no information for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-05-06T19:26:13.753" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T19:26:13.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9902" CreationDate="2013-05-06T15:12:19.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All reports I've read say that using pine will likely impart a turpentine flavor to your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With spruce, you use the tender tips of new growth.  If you decide to go ahead with pine, I'd suggest trying that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T15:12:19.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2013-05-06T21:14:45.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While starters ideally don't make use of an airlock to promote maximum O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; exchange, some people prefer to use an airlock to counter wild yeasts and other contaminants. The narrow neck on the conical flask makes using a stopper and an airlock much more practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatives to rubber stoppers are foam stoppers which permit gas exchange. Again, these would be impractical for use in a beaker or other wide-mouthed vessel, but work well in a conical flask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T21:14:45.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9909" CreationDate="2013-05-06T22:12:13.633" Score="2" ViewCount="4290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a brew day yesterday and ran into something a little odd. I smacked a pack of Wyeast London Ale #1028 berfore I started my routine. After everything was said and done with the boil it had been about 4 or 5 hours and I was ready to pitch my yeast. Now I have had smack packs not swell completely and they have worked fine. This smack pack swelled very little and when I opened it there was a strange smell almost sulfur-ish. So before I pitched I did a little searching and read that during fermentation this strain of yeast is known for giving off a sulfur smell that usually settles out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It hasn't even been 24 hours yet but there is still no action. I just wanted to get some thoughts on this. I am wondering if I should look at preparing an emergency measure just in case this yeast doesn't start at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;And I forgot to ask, has anyone else had any problems with this strain? I have never used it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3408" LastEditorUserId="3408" LastEditDate="2013-05-06T22:19:58.300" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T05:42:48.933" Title="Problems with Wyeast London Ale 1028?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9897" CreationDate="2013-05-06T22:25:38.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Liquid nails or rubber cement would work nicely. Make sure that you remove the 'boot' and remove all of the old residue that may be stuck on. I would probably run some coarse grit sandpaper over that afterwards just to create a rough surface for the cement to bind to. That isn't necessary but make sure you clean the area at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3408" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T22:25:38.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9906" CreationDate="2013-05-07T02:39:05.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;WY1028 behaves fairly normally, in my experience. It doesn't flocculate readily, meaning that you beer will take a long time to clear unless you add finings or filter. I've never had a problem with long lag time or poor attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A smack-pack that's reluctant to puff-up, in my experience, means an old or otherwise low-viability yeast colony. You're probably going to be OK with this beer -- just leave it for another 24 hours and it will probably shows signs of activity. In the future, you might think about making a starter wort for your yeast. It will be a big help with low-viability yeast, and will be of benefit even if the smack pack has the advertised 100 billion viable cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for information about cell counts for pitching, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for instructions on making a yeast starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T02:39:05.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9912" CreationDate="2013-05-07T05:55:34.950" Score="5" ViewCount="9910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at brewing an all-grain barley wine in the near future, and I'm aiming for a high ABV (13%-14% ABV).  From what I've heard in discussions elsewhere, by single-infusion mashing at a lower temperature (I'm shooting for 148 for about 90 minutes), I am extracting more fermentable sugars and achieving a dryer taste (both of which I want for this style ale).  What are the less than desirable qualities in a barley wine that I will suffer as a consequence for mashing at the lower end of the scale?  I'm mashing for 90 minutes instead of the typical 60 to try and guarantee I get the pre-boil gravity I'd like, but is 90 minutes excessive?  Is there such a thing as mashing for too long?  What are the consequences of mashing for &quot;too long&quot; (however long that may be)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="120" LastEditDate="2013-05-09T15:46:58.097" LastActivityDate="2020-02-22T00:41:00.423" Title="Can you mash for too long?" Tags="|mash|barleywine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9911" CreationDate="2013-05-07T11:08:19.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, mashing for longer than 12 hours may not be good for the beer, particularly if the temperature is allowed to drop during that time. (As anyone who has left a mash for that length of time and taken a sniff will confirm!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case with so much grain you could safely go for a 2 or 3 hour mash, to be sure of complete conversion. since the water to grist ratio is going to be lower (a thicker mash).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T11:08:19.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9911" CreationDate="2013-05-07T13:20:19.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a barley wine isn't the major issue going to be sparging not mashing? Mashing is pretty straight forward, but getting that much sugar off that much grain is usually a pain. When I brewed an all-grain barley wine with a friend the mashing was easy. I think he used 90 minutes for mashing as well. Sparging took forever. With a fly sparge and using a refractometer checking the wort every 20 minutes it took us the better part of 4 hours. It was laborious to constantly be making new sparge water and we ended up with a 15 gallon boil for 5 gallons of beer. I think that sparging critical point for a barley wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One issue with sparging is getting too many tanins in the wort which will increase astringency. With a barley wine that is a serious consideration as you are milking all you can get out of the grain. Keeping the pH in a reasonable range (&lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_pH_affects_brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_pH_affects_brewing&lt;/a&gt;) and not making the sparge water too hot (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter17.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter17.html&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastEditorUserId="1981" LastEditDate="2013-05-08T00:21:08.647" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T00:21:08.647" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9915" CreationDate="2013-05-08T00:31:18.160" Score="2" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have now decided to try my hand at some wine making as SHMBO decided she would also like to enjoy the fruits  (haha) of my hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the instructions for the kit I received (White Riesling) I was told to leave the must on the gross lees for one week and secondary for two weeks before degassing/fining. The instructions also mentioned that the gravity should be around .996 after secondary. Well I'm about a little over a week into secondary and my gravity had already reached it's target, so my question now is - should I follow the same rules for beer, let the yeast &quot;clean up&quot; byproducts etc.  Or is it okay to degass and begin the fining process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-05-08T01:33:15.290" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T12:39:10.737" Title="Wine and yeast &quot;clean up&quot;" Tags="|fermentation|wine|degassing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9914" CreationDate="2013-05-08T12:39:10.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made several batches of wine from kits and have always had at least a 2 week secondary followed by at least 6 months in the bottle for white, 12 months for red. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't give you specific details of why this is necessary - just that time is a great healer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could rack the wine now, but it will taste better if you wait a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T12:39:10.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9917" CreationDate="2013-05-08T13:34:20.760" Score="0" ViewCount="677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to serve some homemade cider, hot and mulled at a market stall in the coming weeks. I'll be siphoning out of a 23L demijohn (like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toowoombahomebrewers.com.au/Wine/Accessories/glass-demijohn-23-l&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.toowoombahomebrewers.com.au/Wine/Accessories/glass-demijohn-23-l&lt;/a&gt; to serve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plan is to heat the cider in a big pot to the right temperature (say, 70C), pour a little into the demi to let it adjust, then fill it up. I might need some sort of heat source to keep it warm, but I won't have power. I'm thinking about a very low gas flame with a lot of diffusion (fine metal screens) underneath the demi. Then again, 20L of hot liquid stays hot a long time, maybe I won't need to worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I mental? Am I going to explode the demi? We clean them with a hot-water pressure cleaner, and they're fine, but I wonder about having them full of hot liquid. Last thing I need is 23L of scalding cider exploding everywhere on the night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3416" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T19:13:25.207" Title="How much heat can a demijohn take?" Tags="|temperature|cider|glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9916" CreationDate="2013-05-08T17:46:56.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't do it. They are not meant to be heated. You could heat it before hand and put it into an insulated cooler, and that would hold the heat for a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastEditorUserId="3116" LastEditDate="2013-05-08T19:13:25.207" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T19:13:25.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-08T20:42:55.947" Score="1" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm carbonating my cider in 1 gallon glass carboys and my solid rubber bungs popped off a few times so I tied them down with cable ties. Can anyone tell me if this is ok and the carboy can take the pressure. I used 4 teaspoons of sugar per 1 gallon carboy, and keep at room temperature. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3417" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2013-05-09T22:13:37.060" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T22:13:37.060" Title="Carbonating cider" Tags="|carbonation|carboy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9918" CreationDate="2013-05-08T21:25:04.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carboys are not designed to hold pressure, If I were you I would airlock it, let the added sugar ferment out and then bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could potentially have an explosion waiting to happen...at best you will end up with a cracked and broken carboy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T21:25:04.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9918" CreationDate="2013-05-08T22:28:58.217" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;TAKE THE STOPPER OUT! THIS IS A SERIOUS ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike glass bottles, glass carboys are not designed to hold pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 tsp in 1 gallon will produce about about 2.4 volumes of CO2. The pressure created will be significant - at a minimum 22 PSI, but likely more than that, since fermentation proceeds quicker than the CO2 will dissolve, into the beer. Assuming you have little headspace, the pressure could be easily many times that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T22:28:58.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9923" CreationDate="2013-05-09T00:58:07.980" Score="2" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently cleaned up after brewing one day and realized that I threw away a couple of four gallon water jugs. Could these be used for storing grain for long term? Would the air in the container affect my grain over time? If these can be used for storage I can save the money I wanted to spend on feed containers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3408" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T15:25:46.380" Title="What about grain storage?" Tags="|all-grain|grain|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9925" CreationDate="2013-05-09T01:23:32.703" Score="2" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought my first two kegs, and don't yet have a fridge set up for them. Even when I do get my fridge set up I plan to have more kegs than will fit at once. When I fill them is it better to carbonate them at room temperature, or just purge all the air out of the head space with CO2 and wait to carbonate until they go in the fridge?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="581" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T02:52:52.587" Title="Aging full kegs out of fridge - carbonate now or later?" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9921" CreationDate="2013-05-09T02:31:47.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most maltsters ship their grains in bags that are not air-tight, but they don't recommend storing them for long periods of time (12 months, max).  A plastic jug isn't as air-tight as it seems because it is gas permeable.  Even if it was air-tight, it wouldn't matter unless you used nitrogen or CO2 to flush-out all oxygen from the container.  Nobody really does that kind of thing with grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main idea for your containers is to keep pests out of your grain (bugs, mice).  They should work just fine for that purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3418" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T02:31:47.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9911" CreationDate="2013-05-09T02:43:17.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, when I mash too long (more than 90 minutes), I get a stuck-mash.  Its as if my grain bed gels-up, like pudding or cold oatmeal.  I have found that using rice-hulls or a more coarse grind can help reduce the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do an iodine test (with idophor) you can determine if the conversion is done.  Once it is done, waiting any longer won't make any difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have heard of something called &quot;turbo-malt&quot; that is supposed to be heavily modified and converts in under 40 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3418" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T02:43:17.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9922" CreationDate="2013-05-09T02:52:52.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two lines coming from my CO2 regulator. My kegerator can only hold two kegs at a time. What I do is put two kegs in the kegerator and force carbonate them at serving temperature with lower pressure. Any additional kegs that I should happen to fill up stay outside of the kegerator for force carbonating with higher pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you would be interested in doing something like this. If you have a dual body regulator I find it helpful to have the outside line for many tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3408" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T02:52:52.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9877" CreationDate="2013-05-09T02:59:38.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought some rhizomes from freshops.com. While visiting the site before I made my order I noticed that they had lots useful and interesting information. You should check it out!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freshops.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.freshops.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3408" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T02:59:38.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9877" CreationDate="2013-05-09T17:47:23.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The HopUnion databook is my favorite source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopunion.com/17_HopVarieties.cfm?p3=open&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hopunion.com/17_HopVarieties.cfm?p3=open&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T17:47:23.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9921" CreationDate="2013-05-09T20:17:26.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using wine must buckets, you can normally find them for a few bucks and some of them are compatible with Gamma Seal Lids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These will help with storage, but you should aim to go through your supplies within 12 months of manufacture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T20:17:26.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9930" CreationDate="2013-05-10T15:16:57.110" Score="3" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making an IPA with an OG of 1.069, we pitched at 70°F with good ol' Safale US-05, just dry out of the packet as I've always done with US-05 with good success (I tend to trust it a little too much perhaps). Should have rehydrated probably, but eh, the yeasties got into the bucket. This is my 6th brew so by no means am I an expert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 1 was fine: no activity until the afternoon (T+18h) when it started bubbling lightly as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Night of Day 1 (T+24h - 36h) my roommate (who I brew with and should know better ;)) turned off the A/C in the apartment, so ambient temps rose to about 76°. I checked the temp and the fermenter reached 81°... yikes (IR thermometer and stuck-to-side-of-fermenter thermometer agreed). Bubbler was still going crazy at about 1/second, so I'm guessing that fermentation just took off overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't want the temps up there, so I made a water bath in a rubbermaid bin, with about 68° water, and stuck the fermenter in (submerged about halfway up the bucket). Temps equalized very slowly over about 6 hours and finally stabilized at 72°, which to me seems perfect for this yeast, still even a little high but (I hope) better than it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 3 and 4 now bubbling slowed and then stopped completely. I haven't opened the lid to check krausen or take a gravity reading yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions in convenient numbered form:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could dropping the temperature from that 80° point down to 72° in about 6 hours have &quot;shocked&quot; the yeast in some way?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this just the US-05 going through all the sugars in one night like the good little workhorse it is? Only a gravity reading will tell...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would it be worth re-pitching in case something bad did happen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insights/advice here would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously going to place the next batch in a water bath from the get go to try to keep things more stable, especially as the summer approaches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3280" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T17:03:20.120" Title="Dropped the temperature as it was getting out of control, did I shock my yeast?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9929" CreationDate="2013-05-10T17:03:20.120" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry have a homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is very unlikely that a temperature change from 80-72 would shock the yeast. People like to ferment at lower temperatures because it produces less byproducts that add off flavors to beer. Additionally, 6 hours for the temperature change is definitely not a quick temperature change in the time scale of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Agreed only a gravity reading will tell. But one thing to keep in mind is that because of the higher temperature that fermentation proceeded at you will want to let this beer condition for a while most likely. You can figure that out by tasting a sample to see if you have fusel alcohols or estery compounds in the beer. Estery compounds would be changed into better tasting compounds by the yeast while the fusel alcohols will just take time to degrade to less off tasting compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take a gravity reading. Then decide. Most likely you will be fairly close to the estimated final gravity and you can just transfer to secondary or let is sit on in primary for a while and let it attenuate further. If it is indeed a stuck fermentation then go ahead and re-pitch. But most likely everything is fine but the gravity reading will say for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A water bath is a very good idea for summer brewing in the heat. People also use towels to wick water up and around the whole fermenter. Also if the temperature get way up there you can freeze water in 2 liter coke bottles (make sure to leave a little head space!) and then put those in the water bath to lower the temperature even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T17:03:20.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9976" CreationDate="2013-05-10T19:01:46.560" Score="0" ViewCount="1533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to gain some knowledge about hops and have an idea in what all those varieties differ. Is it possible to define a few categories for hops (for example based on region of origin), so to choose one variety from each group and start knowing the differences between different categories?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T00:47:47.980" Title="A aroma/flavor hops taxonomy" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9970" CreationDate="2013-05-10T20:38:35.263" Score="0" ViewCount="827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying my first, 1-gallon batch of dandelion wine.  Some recipes say &quot;1 packet&quot; of brewer's yeast, and mine doesn't even specify an amount.  It also specifies to add &quot;yeast nutrient,&quot; which my local store does not carry and I've heard it can be made without if you have patience.  What's a good amount to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Sorry, to be clear, my local store does not sell &quot;packets&quot;, they sell a fist-sized bag (with no instructions on it), which I'm pretty sure is dozens of times more than what I need for a gallon batch.  I can't seem to find a recipe that specifies the volume of a &quot;packet&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3422" LastEditorUserId="3422" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T11:00:44.870" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T14:45:26.580" Title="What volume of brewer's yeast to use for yeast-nutrient-less dandelion wine?" Tags="|yeast|wine|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9935" CreationDate="2013-05-11T22:53:39.067" Score="2" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just finished my second batch of beer and am about to bottle it. I'm already happy with both ABV and how it tastes. Carbonation's not a big deal to me and it's already a tiny bit fizzy anyway, so my questions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I really need to add sugar before bottling? Will it be completely flat if I don't?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much will 30g of regular sugar in 18L affect the flavour and ABV?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3426" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T00:27:07.140" Title="Effects of sugar before bottling" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9936" CreationDate="2013-05-11T23:09:58.087" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some of the weirder (successful) flavourings you have tried in your beers, and at what point would you normally add these extras?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It occurred to me the other day that basil or even rocket (arugula?) might be interesting in small amounts, but I wouldn't know at which stage to throw them in, or even what constitutes a &quot;small&quot; amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3426" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T06:58:23.680" Title="Unusual flavourings" Tags="|flavoring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9933" CreationDate="2013-05-12T00:27:07.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the thing is, you really should wait until the beer is fermented fully before you bottle it. The beer will ferment until it is done, regardless of when you bottle it, so if you bottle it too early, your going to have exploding bottles and all sorts of mess. So you shouldn't really think of bottling in terms of when you think it tastes good but more in terms of when it's ready to be bottled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, it's fairly likely that it is ready to be bottled, assuming it's been fermenting for about a week or more. The best way to know this is by taking gravity readings and waiting until they stabilized, but as long as it's been in for about a week and you've seen lots of bubbling in that time it is probably done fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can bottle without priming sugar. There won't be a ton of carbonation but it won't be completely flat. If you do decide to carbonate, the priming sugar will have no noticeable impact on flavor or ABV (except that the beer will be carbonated). That's not to say that it will have no impact, but there is almost NO way you will be able to taste the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's been fermenting for a while I'd say throw some sugar in and get it in some bottles! If you like it now then you'll definitely enjoy the final product and you can always crack some open early if you can't wait for them to fully carbonate, they'll just be a little flatter. Hope it turns out great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T00:27:07.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9934" CreationDate="2013-05-12T00:35:07.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of timing, flavorings can be added a lot like dry hopping. You want to add them after the bulk of fermentation has already occurred so usually 2-3 days or even a week after pitching the yeast. There are a couple reasons for this. For one, the wort will already have some alcohol in it which means you are less likely to get an infection when you add your flavoring. Also, vigorous fermentation can blow off the volatile oils that give things like vanilla or hops their flavor, so you want to add additives later on when the beer is already pretty stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of quantities, I haven't played with anything other than hops too much, just a little citrus juice into one beer. Generally 1-3 oz. of dry hops is not unheard of so that amount might be a good starting point for things like basil. One option is to split up the beer into some smaller (1 gallon?) containers and try different amounts or flavorings in each of them. Play around, get creative, you are unlikely to mess it up too much and it might turn out really good! Good luck with everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T00:35:07.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9944" CreationDate="2013-05-12T00:38:39.837" Score="4" ViewCount="2213" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br /&gt;After approximately 5.5 month my airlock full of vodka has lost 60% of its volume and now has trapped a couple dozen of fruit flies.  Should I be concerned for my batch of Mead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What methods can I use to test the mead (taste and smell)? Is this common and preventable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In depth&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Last November 25th I started my first 5-gallon batch of Joes Ancient Orange Mead following the recipe here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f80/joes-ancient-orange-mead-49106/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f80/joes-ancient-orange-mead-49106/&lt;/a&gt; (multiplying most ingredients by five save for the yeast and the cloves).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe everything went well. The airlock was furiously bubbling for a time and continued to bubble for many days after. However, after the initial few days I added more water to the carboy (as described in the directions) and believe I may have damaged the airlock. I cannot say how as the airlock appeared to still work though I did hear a loud pop when I returned it to the bung/stopper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As directed I did not touch the carboy for months. My aim has been to wait six months (which will be in 14 days) before attempting to bottle (regardless the fruit still has not dropped, but that is another matter). In the last week I noticed a discoloration of the air lock. I have caught some fruit flies! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cp1hG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Airlock one&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yV6ez.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Airlock two&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y5Mmf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mead one 167d one&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1z7df.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mead one 167d two&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3427" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T15:12:08.457" Title="Fruit Flies in Airlock. How can I Test if Mead is Okay?" Tags="|mead|airlock|first-time|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9878" CreationDate="2013-05-12T01:35:37.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Graham's answer is good.  I'd add Saaz to the list.  I just won a gold medal for a Belgian Blonde with Hallertau and Saaz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;23 liter batch. (25 IBUs - Tinseth)&#xA;.5 oz Magnum for bittering.&#xA;.5 oz of Hallertau at :10.&#xA;.5 oz of Saaz at :05.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably want to get &quot;Brew Like a Monk&quot; by Stan Hieronymus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T01:35:37.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9626" CreationDate="2013-05-12T05:28:56.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no need to worry about pre-boil sanitation other than just generally use a clean mash tun etc.. contamination would have to occur post boil of your wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3428" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T05:28:56.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-12T05:31:10.720" Score="0" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do people like in terms of heat resistant measuring cups for batch sparging? I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001PZ9M8U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; one on Amazon. I was wondering if there were other options that were better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using it for re-circulation of the wort. I also was thinking of using it to add in the hot water for subsequent sparges after fully drained the lauter tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3428" LastEditorUserId="3428" LastEditDate="2013-05-17T00:03:17.877" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T13:00:17.360" Title="Measuring Cup for Batch Sparging?" Tags="|all-grain|sparge|batch-sparge|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9934" CreationDate="2013-05-12T06:58:23.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the chance to try a cucumber Wit a couple of weeks back. It was great - a very drinkable summer beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, the brewer peeled and deseeded 4 cucumbers, roughtly chopped and put in a hop bag after primary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cucumber flavor and aroma was definitely present, but was light enough not to overpower the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T06:58:23.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9946" CreationDate="2013-05-12T08:28:39.830" Score="3" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using mashing procedure described by Charlie Papazian:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;30' at 56C&#xA;60' at 68C&#xA;15' at 70C&#xA;mash out at 75'&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to work great, but it is rather long since it requires a whole two hours to perform. Is there any alternative procedure that can produce good results in less time (let's say one hour)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T00:31:00.923" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T00:31:00.923" Title="How to mash quickly?" Tags="|mashing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9942" CreationDate="2013-05-12T09:19:47.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The speed of the mash is mainly down to enzymatic activity, and this is influenced chiefly by temperature and then by pH. Naturally you don't want to change your temperature, so the next thing is to be sure your pH is within 5.1-5.5 pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as enzymatic activity, there is the time it takes for the enzymes to leach out of the grains into the mash liquor. A finer crush may help to some degree but I doubt it will anywhere near the 50% reduction you're looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get any significant reduction, you can skip the 30 minutes at 56C, which is at the top end of a protein rest. Modern malts have had many of the proteins already broken down as part of the germination process - in fact performing a protein rest on these malts can reduce body and head retention. A mash out rest isn't strictly necessary either - it's there to lock in the current sugar profile by denaturing the enzymes to prevent further conversion. The mash out can be combined with the sparge. Cutting both of those rests will reduce your mash by 45 mins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, rather than just waiting for the full rest, you could do a starch test with iodine to determine if there are still unconverted starches or not. Pull off a few drops of wort (without grain particles) and add a drop if iodine. If the iodine doesn't turn black, you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I always do 90 minute mashes, longer for bigger beers. I set enough time aside so that I can give each step the time it needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T20:21:00.327" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T20:21:00.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9937" CreationDate="2013-05-12T15:12:08.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably there's no infection. Even though the airlock was mostly dry, there shouldn't have been a way for rhe flies to get into the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The liquid in the airlock evaporates over time, and vodka will evaporate faster that water. You should check the airlock every few weeks and top up (without removing from the carboy) when required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fruit flies carry acetobacter which will turn alcohol into vinegar. If your mead tastes like wine vinegar, you can blame the fruit flies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T15:12:08.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-12T15:20:30.010" Score="5" ViewCount="3186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently started BIAB, and my wort is very cloudy after the boil. Much &quot;cloud material&quot; ends up in the fermentor, since it takes really long to settle and is easily stirred. It mostly looks like flour, and is present even without hops (I have tested).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Is it OK to filter the wort after chilling, or will I remove some important stuff? (I could also filter just the last part.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will Irish Moss or WhirFloc help with this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-31T17:15:05.003" LastActivityDate="2017-07-31T17:15:05.003" Title="Filtering BIAB wort" Tags="|wort|biab|filtering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9942" CreationDate="2013-05-12T16:29:38.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The step mash procedure described above is really not necessary any more.  With today's highly modified malts, almost any recipe can be made with a single infusion mash.  The reason for this is that the maltster has in effect done the first step for you by making sure the malt is highly modified.  The eliminates the need for a low temperature protein rest.  A mashout is almost never needed, especially if you batch sparge.  The purpose of the mashout is to denature enzymes which will halt conversion and fix your sugar profile without further breakdown of long chain dextrins.  When you batch sparge you start to boil so soon that there is little to no additional breakdown.  Even if you fly sparge, which takes longer, the effects of not doing a mashout will be barely noticeable.  The concept of mashout is a leftover from commercial brewing, where it make take 2 hours or more to lauter the mash.  All of that time is spent at mash temp unless you do a mashout.  You could easily skip the 56 and 70 steps and save 45 min.  In addition, if you batch sparge, you can cut your sparge time from an hour to 15 min.  Neither change will have an adverse affect on the quality of your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T20:24:48.617" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T20:24:48.617" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9947" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9948" CreationDate="2013-05-12T18:22:44.550" Score="1" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wine kit that I am making uses isinglass for fining and recommends storing the wine at 70 degrees during the process. In the past I've used gelatin in my beers to clear and I know that it works better when stored cold. Does this hold true for isinglass? Or should I still store the recommended 70 degrees?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T18:52:10.153" Title="Isinglass and temperature" Tags="|temperature|wine|fining|isinglass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9947" CreationDate="2013-05-12T18:52:10.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this, 70 sounds good.  Around 60 is recommended for beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.practicalbrewing.co.uk/main/fining/page5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.practicalbrewing.co.uk/main/fining/page5.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T18:52:10.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9932" CreationDate="2013-05-12T21:42:16.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd do the packet. I suppose you run the risk of over pitching, but unlikely. Make sure you rehydrate if the instructions tell you to. On the nutrient, I'd just do a teaspoon. Looks like some people advocate one teaspoon per gallon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2711" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T21:42:16.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9953" CreationDate="2013-05-13T10:07:05.760" Score="13" ViewCount="32091" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to experiment a bit by adding spices - I'm thinking &lt;code&gt;cinnamon&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;vanilla&lt;/code&gt; - to my beer, but wonder at which step is considered the best time to add it.  Personal experience is very welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume adding it during mashing is out...  I guess the obvious time would be during the boil (in &quot;tea&quot;-bags?) - but early or late?  Or is it better to do it after the boil - during &quot;mixing&quot; - just to let the spices soak?  (I guess it's a bad idea to leave spices in during (1st) fermentation...)  Or is it best to wait until 2nd fermentation, using the step pretty much just to add the spices?  Or should I perhaps make an extract or tea with warm/boiling water, or an infusion in alcohol (vodka)... if so, how - and when should I add this extract?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will one extract more &quot;taste&quot; and the other more aroma (smell)?  Will one be stronger and the other subtler?  Will one be more &quot;in your face&quot; and the other more mellowed/aged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about using cinnamon-bark and vanilla-&quot;sticks&quot; (dried fruits).  I'll probably add some honey (during the boil(?)) too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS:  Should I leave the vanilla-&quot;stick&quot; whole, or do what one often do in cooking - split it lengthwise and scrape out the seeds inside, before putting it all (seeds and split &quot;stick&quot;) into what I want to set taste too?  The seeds are tiny black &quot;dots&quot; - and it probably won't be that many of them in the whole batch - but still, it's perhaps nothing you want to see in your beer (looks just delicious in hot chocolate though ;-)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3305" LastEditorUserId="3305" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T11:04:55.333" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T03:44:17.927" Title="The &quot;correct&quot; step to add cinnamon and vanilla?" Tags="|spices|procedure|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-13T12:30:50.943" Score="5" ViewCount="1907" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably we used not enough of the carared, but what we can do? Is it possible to use a dark fruit extract(sour, not sweet) to correct the color in the end? And what will be the effect on  taste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3431" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T17:02:04.510" Title="Not Red but Orange: How to correct the color of an Irish Red after brewing?" Tags="|beer|color|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9951" CreationDate="2013-05-13T14:00:55.833" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fruit is not the best color agent here - the flavor will be out of character in an Irish Red. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get the red color from a little roast barley. Take a handful of lightly crushed roasted barley (or two handfulls of whole) and let them stand in half a pint of cold water for half an hour to an hour. Strain the water, which will now be black, boil, then add it to your wort/beer. You don't need to chill - it will cool instantly on contact with the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The barley will give a red color to the beer (and a very slight touch of dryness in the finish, which is welcome in an Irish Red.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending upon the SRM of your roast barley, you may need to do this more than once. A handful is possibly less than you need - but you can always add more to add more color after a first try, but it's not so easy take it away!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T16:02:47.213" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T16:02:47.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9950" CreationDate="2013-05-13T14:20:00.880" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Treat them like other additives (cardamom, rosehips,etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do either. I will add things at the end of the boil to impart more subtle flavor or if I want it to be more noticeable during the fermentation (similar to when people add oak). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had good success adding a couple of cinnamon stocks during the fermentation. I would treat vanilla bean in almost the same manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3419" LastEditorUserId="3419" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T14:30:47.390" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T14:30:47.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9951" CreationDate="2013-05-13T17:02:04.510" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with some &lt;strong&gt;Sinamar&lt;/strong&gt;. Its a product from Weyermann made entirely of Black Malt and will add color to the beer without any additional flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/4-OZ-SINAMAR-NATURAL-BEER-COLORING-P2651.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/4-OZ-SINAMAR-NATURAL-BEER-COLORING-P2651.aspx&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sinamar® natural beer coloring was patented by the Weyermann Company&#xA;  in Germany in 1902, and is a gluten free natural mashed coloring&#xA;  derived from debittered Carafa Special 11 black malt. It will help you&#xA;  create a dark beer with very little roast character. It is used in&#xA;  breweries in 67 countries today, and used to darken Dunkelweizens,&#xA;  Schwarzbiers, Bockbiers, Dunkel Lagers, Altbiers, Stouts, Porters, &lt;strong&gt;Red&#xA;  Ales&lt;/strong&gt;, Brown Ales, and even Scotch Ales. If you are a beer drinker with&#xA;  any experience, you have consumed a beer colored with Sinamar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sinamar is currently popular with craft brewers in the United States&#xA;  making dark IPA styles, as it imparts natural malt darkness without&#xA;  most of the roast and bitter dark malt flavor components. Use 1 fluid&#xA;  ounce in 5 gallons of wort (add while cooling at the end of the boil)&#xA;  to add 5 SRM of color. 5 SRM is the difference between a pale blond&#xA;  beer and a dark golden beer. To turn a pale golden beer dark brown or&#xA;  almost black, add 3 to 4 ounces of Sinamar to 5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can drink a drop of two of this stuff straight from the bottle to verify that it does not posses much flavor at all. It would be ideal to darken up a Red Ale instantly. You should add a few drops at a time to the carboy until you get the correct color you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, the beer is a little darker in the carboy than in the bottle, BUT you need to make sure your yeast has cleared. If not, your beer will look &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;lighter&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in the carboy, as the yeast reflect light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T17:02:04.510" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9960" CreationDate="2013-05-14T09:28:18.463" Score="0" ViewCount="835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have acquired &quot;white belgian candi sugar&quot; from BrewFerm, and it is in rock form. AFAIK, this is just solid invert sugar, and should have potential 46 PPG, but BrewSmith and Brewer's Friend both list them with 38 PPG. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T15:15:55.523" Title="What is the potential of rock candi sugar?" Tags="|sugar|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9959" CreationDate="2013-05-14T10:48:05.720" Score="4" ViewCount="835" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of beer can I brew in the summer (30C by day, a few less by night), without special cooling equipment? Anything special (but not too complicated/expensive) I should do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T14:10:46.963" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T14:10:46.963" Title="What to brew in the summer?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9956" CreationDate="2013-05-14T12:16:49.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;saison/farm house ales. I was planning on for this summer as well :) They do well in the higher temperatures. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saison&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saison&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastEditorUserId="1950" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T16:49:11.427" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T16:49:11.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9950" CreationDate="2013-05-14T12:59:24.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use cinnamon sticks for a week in secondary fermentation to great effect. Lightly boil for 10 minutes in minimal water and add if you're worried about contamination. In a 5 gallon batch one stick adds a nice hint in an average ale but will be strong in anything light. Two sticks is for Christmas beer IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vanilla I've used in late boil and during secondary. Both are fine but for that nice smooth flavor I prefer to let them soak rather than boil them. Don't forget to cut the pod open so it will release that flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3433" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T12:59:24.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9956" CreationDate="2013-05-14T13:18:56.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saisons are great warm temp beers typically brewed during the summer. Typically saison yeast is pitched at a temperature around 20C&amp;deg; and then raised a few degrees each day until you hit ~26&amp;deg; While 30&amp;deg; seems on the high end for saison its doable; fermenting higher will likely result in increased fruity or spicy character. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't necessarily need any complicated equipment to brew a normal ale. You could utilize any tub of water and ice packs to keep a fermenter cool. See this Question for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9788/would-placing-the-fermenter-tank-in-a-tub-of-water-be-a-good-way-to-handle-hot-e/9789#9789&quot;&gt;Would placing the fermenter tank in a tub of water be a good way to handle hot environments?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T15:54:58.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9955" CreationDate="2013-05-14T15:15:55.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no reason it should be different from any other sugar.  I use 45 ppg and get the gravities I expect, so I would have to say that 46 is closer than 38.  I suppose it could vary by brand if one brand somehow cut the sugar with something else, but I'm not aware of that actually happening.  BTW, candi sugar rocks are a waste of money.  Belgian brewers don't use it.  They use either candi syrup or plain beet or cane sugar (like table sugar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T15:15:55.523" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9965" CreationDate="2013-05-14T15:22:50.670" Score="34" ViewCount="104934" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is just out of curiosity...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean if you distill beer, you get whiskey... if you distill wine, you get cognac/brandy... if you distill fermented molasses, you get rum... if you distill fermented agave, you get tequila... if you distill apple-cider, you get calvados (if you happen to live in Calvados, France)... if you distill fermented horse-milk (kumiss), you'll probably regret it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what do you get if you distill (honey-) mead?  Does it even have a specific name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm obviously not thinking about distilling and filtering it into oblivion, at which point you'd end-up with (something like) vodka...  I'm thinking about what you would get if you distilled it in a pot-still, wanting the base (here mead) to impart flavor to the finished spirit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3305" LastEditorUserId="3305" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T16:57:16.573" LastActivityDate="2020-10-10T04:52:22.123" Title="What do you get if you distill mead?" Tags="|mead|distillation|" AnswerCount="25" CommentCount="9" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-05-20T15:15:12.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9963" CreationDate="2013-05-14T17:31:24.867" Score="1" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you sanitize and prepare a bung for stopping a carboy? While making sure that it will maintain a good seal and not &lt;em&gt;POP&lt;/em&gt; off sometime later.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In depth&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I removed and sterilized my bung and airlock (from a 170 day batch of JAOM) last night (due to a fruit fly infestation of the lock: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9937/fruit-flies-in-airlock-how-can-i-test-if-mead-is-okay&quot;&gt;Q: Fruit Flies in Airlock&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a difficult time replacing the bung after sterilizing it with Star San sanitize. My right brain wanted to dry the bung and bung hole with a paper towel while my left brain believed this would lead to possible contamination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I eventually air-dried the bung in my hand, fearful of contaminating it if I let it rest anywhere. After a few attempts the bung appeared to fit into place. I affixed the airlock and cleaned up. I went to bed 90 minutes later, all appeared fine. However, when I woke this morning I noticed the bung and airlock &lt;em&gt;POPPED&lt;/em&gt; off!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time I just placed the bung into the hole and topped off my airlock. I cannot help but feel that I do not know what I am doing, that I have bought an inferior bung, or that my mead is now on a dooms day count down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3427" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T19:36:39.877" Title="How to Sterilize Bung and Hole while Maintaining a Strong Seal?" Tags="|mead|airlock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9962" CreationDate="2013-05-14T17:57:53.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paper towels right off the roll are sanitary, so you could have dried things with them.  I have done that many times without a problem.  I have also used duct tape to hold the stopper in the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T17:57:53.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9969" CreationDate="2013-05-14T18:11:26.933" Score="2" ViewCount="1333" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Sunday (day 0) I bottled beer for the first time (with my first batch). I asked my brother how I could determine whether or not I successfully locked the caps onto the bottles to make them air-tight, and he said that I could stick them underwater and look for bubbles to float out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in California, and recently it has averaged 80*F daily. I have used a swamp cooler for my fermentors, so I decided to do the same thing for my conditioning bottles. I got a tub, placed all the bottles in, and then filled the tank with water, completely submerging the bottles. I carefully watched them during this process and noted that none of the bottles released any bubbles. According to my brother's theory, this means I correctly attached the caps to the bottles and made them air-tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On day 0 and day 1, nothing happened. Then, on day 2 (Tuesday), all my bottles had varying amounts of bubbles on the caps, underwater. They are just stuck there, chilling. What is the meaning of this? Some caps are completely filled with bubbles, while others only have 10-25% of their surface covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just took one bottle out of the water and observed that it still has the empty room on top--indicating that it has not filled with water. I also just wiped off the bubbles from half of the bottles and will observe later whether or not bubbles reform on the caps. EDIT: Bubbles never reformed even after 14 days&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nu064.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Why the Bubbles?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(P.S., if one of my bottles were to explode underwater, would the water somehow minimize the likelyhood that one bottle would shatter the other bottles, or that glass would fly up out of my tub?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T01:14:49.690" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T01:14:49.690" Title="My bottles are Conditioning underwater. Why are there bubbles on the caps on day 2 but not day 0 through 1?" Tags="|bottling|bottle-conditioning|water|bubble|swamp-cooler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2013-05-14T22:46:37.937" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while ago I visited a local &lt;a href=&quot;http://tugwellcreekfarm.com&quot;&gt;meadery&lt;/a&gt; and chatted with the brewer (meader?). He was planning on making use of a local micro-distiller's equipment to produce a spirit from his mead. I asked him the name of the resulting product, and his answer was &quot;distilled mead&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not the answer I was hoping for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never tasted such a thing and suspect that the subtle floral qualities that make mead interesting would be lost in the distillation process. I see that there's a fortified mead in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://tugwellcreekfarm.com/products2/vintage-sac-sweet-fortified-mead/&quot;&gt;product list&lt;/a&gt; but from the description it sounds like it's fortified with neutral spirits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T22:55:59.983" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T22:55:59.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9945" CreationDate="2013-05-14T23:21:24.580" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have had a similar issue. I switched bags from the handmade swiss voile to one I bought at a homebrew shop which had wider mesh. What happened was pretty disturbing. The beer was suddenly full of fine material which was boiling up and creating a very nasty mess on the side of the pot. I cleaned this crap out several times as it built up over the course of the boil. But there was still material in the wort. I just put it into the fermenter and it settled out on its own and I got a very nice clear beer after fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say I went back to my old bag because I liked that it filtered that stuff out. But what I assume is going on is that the mesh on the swiss voile is much finer and is doing this filtering for me. This material is definitely coming from crushing the barley and other grains. So there are a few possibilities to fix this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crush the grain less or after wetting it to reduce the amount of dust created by crushing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a finer mesh bag, I suggest using swiss voile it seems to be pretty much perfect for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But most importantly don't worry about it, most likely it is going to settle out and be cemented into the trub anyway. Just be careful not to disturb it when you syphon off the yeast cake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T23:21:24.580" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2013-05-15T11:28:30.370" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Wikipedia there doesn't appear to be much in the way of a family name for it: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mead&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mead (Wikipedia)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the closest would be &quot;Midus&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Midus: Lithuanian for mead, made of natural bee honey and berry juice. Infused with carnation blossoms, acorns, poplar buds, juniper berries and other herbs, it is often made as a mead distillate or mead nectar, some of the varieties having as much as 75% of alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-06-24T21:25:26.397" LastActivityDate="2017-06-24T21:25:26.397" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9991" CreationDate="2013-05-15T11:36:28.160" Score="0" ViewCount="5867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a pack of champagne yeast, but not sure why, just to try it :) What differences should I expect compared to a &quot;normal&quot; English ale yest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="2869" LastEditDate="2013-05-15T11:41:48.930" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T22:28:39.630" Title="What to expect from champagne yeast?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9964" CreationDate="2013-05-15T12:07:38.860" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The caps are not perfectly smooth - they contain nucleation points, imperfections or dirt along the surface, where a bubble could form (similar to how boils are formed at nucleation points when heating water). As the cold water heats up, dissolved gasses are forced out of solution. Some of this gas dissipates, but some of it will attach to the nucleation points on the bottle caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has nothing to do with the beer inside. You would probably have noticed any leaks in the previous two days, and any leaking gas wouldn't form on the top of the bottle caps - it would come out near the seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your second question,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There would be some minor minimization of risk, due to the water's drag on an exploding bottle, but the bottles are very close and there's not that much water. I doubt you'd notice any practical difference between an exploding bottle in this small water vessel than in open air. The wet, broken bottle(s) would probably be more dangerous to you during clean-up, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3437" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T12:07:38.860" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9932" CreationDate="2013-05-15T14:45:26.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's said that &lt;a href=&quot;http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/feeding.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lemon juice&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f25/no-yeast-nutrient-235175/#post2775527&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;raisins&lt;/a&gt; can provide nutrients to the yeast.  Despite the fact that &quot;yeast nutrient&quot; is an ingredient in the dandelion wine recipe I'm using, so are lemon pulp and raisins, so maybe it will be okay in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My official answer is 2 Tbsp of brewer's yeast.  Time will tell...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3422" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T14:45:26.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9973" CreationDate="2013-05-15T17:05:31.150" Score="2" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottled my first batch of beer 72 hours ago. I am under the impression that bottled beer should not immediately be placed in the refrigerator, as this would prevent the remaining yeast from carbonating the bottle with the priming sugar. From googling, I seem to be be receiving contradictory information about when the beer can be placed in the fridgerator: after 3 days and up to the full two week conditioning period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(P.S., is a bottle-bomb the result of only bottling beer that hasn't stopped fermenting, or would filling a bottle close to the brim also result in a bottle bomb?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T17:13:31.453" Title="How long must an ale be conditioned in bottles outside of the fridgerator?" Tags="|bottling|bottle-conditioning|first-time|bottle-bomb|timing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9972" CreationDate="2013-05-15T17:13:31.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One week is &lt;em&gt;Usually&lt;/em&gt; enough time to finish carbonating, however I've found that you get much better results if you wait at least two weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottle bombs are typically the result of one of three things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incomplete Fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much bottling sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you made sure fermentation was complete, had no signs of infection and made sure you used the proper amount of sugar to carbonate you shouldn't have many issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have left an inch to an inch and a half of airspace at the top of your bottles, however a little less shouldn't be too much of an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T17:13:31.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-15T17:32:12.707" Score="1" ViewCount="4756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a life-long fancy for using vodka to clean sanitize and naturally use it in my air-lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that it is only 40%, however, and I live in California where pure grain alcohol is illegal, would starsan be better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the two dimensions to take into account would be sanitation and cost, but I am more concerned about sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T07:44:47.073" Title="Which is the superior air-lock liquid: Vodka or Star-San?" Tags="|sanitation|airlock|starsan|alcohol|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-09-12T07:43:41.483" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9974" CreationDate="2013-05-15T17:51:03.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Foil. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either vodka or star-san are perfectly fine. Water will work just as well. The liquid in an airlock does not strictly need to be sanitary, it just needs to provide a barrier for insects, primarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3438" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T17:51:03.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9931" CreationDate="2013-05-15T21:35:52.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;here is a rudimentary takeoff on the flavor wheels you can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this one is for hop aromas/flavors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lakoq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/attachments/f12/102717d1361410242-hops-aroma-flavor-wheel-hops-flavors-reference-wheel.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/attachments/f12/102717d1361410242-hops-aroma-flavor-wheel-hops-flavors-reference-wheel.jpg&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3440" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-05-16T00:01:31.283" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T00:01:31.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9974" CreationDate="2013-05-16T00:05:22.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water - it's cheap, it's always available, and does the job adequately. No need for anything else when something so simple works so well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T00:05:22.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9940" CreationDate="2013-05-16T01:05:16.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just use a regular pyrex glass one.  I wouldn't want to use metal, because I sometimes put it in the microwave to bring the mash temp up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T01:05:16.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2013-05-16T03:58:05.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewingfun.blogspot.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://homebrewingfun.blogspot.com&lt;/a&gt; aka Brain Sparging on Homebrewing is a good homebrewing blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3443" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T03:58:05.673" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-05-16T03:58:05.673" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9982" CreationDate="2013-05-16T09:11:52.197" Score="2" ViewCount="3395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a brew, that I will need to bottle soon.&#xA;But, how do I calculate, how much sugar to add, before bottling?&#xA;I'll be adding table-sugar, but I am very worried about exploding bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there some rules for calculating? I assume the type of beer you're making, also plays in. In my case, it's german wheat beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2769" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2013-05-16T15:51:16.477" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T05:31:47.993" Title="How do I calculate how much sugar to add, for carbonation" Tags="|carbonation|priming|sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9980" CreationDate="2013-05-16T13:18:05.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Priming sugar amount depends on carbonation level, that is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Total carbonation = CO2 already in beer + CO2 from priming sugar&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CO2 already in beer depends on the temperature you bottle at &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CO2 from priming sugar is proportional to amount of sugar used &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total carbonation is expressed in volumes (Vol) and depends on beer style.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find all this taken care of in online calculator, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I experienced once a bottle bombing with a wheat beer (I used something like 4Vol ,taht is around 10-12g/l of sugar I guess). It was less dangerous than I thougt, but still potentially dangerous :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T13:18:05.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9980" CreationDate="2013-05-16T13:24:59.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule of thumb to go by - 1oz sugar per 1gal Beer. That will get you a nice carbonation on most beers. I typically just add 5oz every batch and don't mess with any calculations unless I'm intentionally under-carbonating a stout or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-05-16T14:25:50.927" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T14:25:50.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9988" CreationDate="2013-05-16T14:12:11.500" Score="4" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skunky off-flavours are caused by ultraviolet light causing chemical reaction that transforms alpha-acids. Once this flavour is created, does it go away with time, and if so how much time? Or will it stay forever once it is present?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="1981" LastEditDate="2013-05-17T20:49:07.017" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T20:49:07.017" Title="Does skunk off flavour go away?" Tags="|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9997" CreationDate="2013-05-16T14:45:50.157" Score="1" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting some sour flavors and off-aromas in my bottled beer when they have more of one month in bottle. When the beers are young, they taste really good with full aromas, but even if I stored all the batch in the fridge, I can't hold the freshness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is any way to improve the freshness with beers like Pale Ale or Heifeweizen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; For example, I made a beer using Pilsener Malt and wheat, in boiling I added some orange peel and coriander seeds. The beer, after one week in bottle conditioning, has a lovely aroma and full flavor, no problem. After 14 days, the aroma was gone and the taste became flat and sour, also the head retention was going worst. This example is with wheat, but also with a Pale Ale the hoppy flavor and arome went to nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastEditorUserId="2775" LastEditDate="2013-05-16T16:51:24.353" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T18:07:51.320" Title="How to improve freshness bottled beer?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9984" CreationDate="2013-05-16T16:10:22.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without more description from you, I can make a few guesses.  The sourness could be that you have a low level infection that becomes worse as the beer ages.  Off aroma covers a lot of territory.  Again, it could be infection but it could also be something like oxidation.  Both of these are possible even if the beer is refrigerated.  Unless you can give us a better description of the flaws, those are the best guesses I can make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T16:10:22.983" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9983" CreationDate="2013-05-16T16:11:26.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is that it does not go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T16:11:26.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9940" CreationDate="2013-05-16T17:52:19.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just use a 2 qt rubbermaid pitcher. Seems to do just fine for re-circulation wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3408" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T17:52:19.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9983" CreationDate="2013-05-16T18:01:42.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't go away - the photochemical reaction produces compounds that do not degrade  quickly and are not broken down by the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Professor Beer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.professorbeer.com/articles/skunked_beer.html&quot;&gt;writes&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When light hits beer, it provides the energy necessary to drive a&#xA;  reaction that transforms the iso-alpha-acids into&#xA;  3-methyl-2-butene-1-thiol. The “thiol” part of that somewhat&#xA;  cumbersome name indicates that there is sulfur present. Sulfur&#xA;  compounds often have strong, offensive aromas. Some musteline animals,&#xA;  like skunks, have evolved the ability to produce this chemical, and&#xA;  use it for self-defense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reaction proceeds quickly with clear or blue glass:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] a&#xA;  well-hopped beer in clear glass can become noticeably offensive with&#xA;  just 30 seconds of exposure to sunshine. Brown glass transmits less&#xA;  visible light than the previously mentioned colors, and therefore&#xA;  offers some protection from skunking. It does allow some light&#xA;  through, so beer in brown bottles will skunk after a few hours of&#xA;  light exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thiol compound doesn't break down spontaneously, so in unadulterated beer, the reaction is irreversible, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/02/27/AR2007022700312.html&quot;&gt;detection levels&lt;/a&gt; in humans is less than 1 billionth of a gram in a 12oz beer bottle, so it doesn't take much exposure to light to noticeably skunk the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The skunk compound is normally insoluble in water, but can be made soluble by adding hydrogen peroxide, baking soda and soap, which is often used as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harmonyanimalwellness.com/UsefulInfoPages/deskunk.html&quot;&gt;remedy&lt;/a&gt; to wash away shunk spray - and tested on Mythbusters! But of course this can't be done for the skunkiness in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best course of action is to simply keep the beer covered and out of sunlight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T18:01:42.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9940" CreationDate="2013-05-16T18:20:42.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For vorlauf and xferring water, I use a 2 qt. plastic pitcher which you can see below.  I also use a 2 cup Pyrex measuring cup for pulling gravity and pH samples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQ6VA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Denny&amp;#39;s equipment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T18:20:42.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9968" CreationDate="2013-05-16T19:25:52.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A champagne yeast will most likely be different from an ale yeast in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While an ale yeast may fermement down to 1.008 or so, a champagne yeast will ferment to something much much dryer, closet to 1.000&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wine and champage yeasts do not typically produce the amount of krausen that an ale yeast will. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2711" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T19:25:52.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9968" CreationDate="2013-05-16T20:40:43.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is that champagne yeast makes lousy beer.  It ferments different sugars than ale/lager yeast and does not produce the flavors you expect from beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T20:40:43.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-17T04:23:32.563" Score="4" ViewCount="2737" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am getting ready to carbonate my first keg! But I am worried about beer entering the CO2 line if I use the 'rock on my lap like a baby' method :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am worried because I tried to carbonate a bottle of water to test my setup using one of the carbonating bottle caps. So I held the bottle sideways and gave it a good shake. But I then realized that water went into the CO2 line. Would this happen if I carb my keg while rolling it around on its side??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help!!&#xA;Rob&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3445" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:29:10.757" Title="Keeping beer from entering CO2 line while Carbing Keg?" Tags="|carbonation|keg|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9980" CreationDate="2013-05-17T05:31:47.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a great online carbonation calculator : &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/carbonation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/carbonation.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;just type in the desired amount of Co2 and hey presto!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this help you as much as it does for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3446" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T05:31:47.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9992" CreationDate="2013-05-17T13:54:54.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it's possible for some to go in that direction, there should be some pretty good positive pressure (especially when it's pumped up for carbing w/ shaking) to prevent anything from going upstream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your system is designed well, the valves will have flow restrictors that allow only gas to leave the regulator... aside from whatever might get stuck in the tubing there's no problem. I've personally never noticed anything go into the gas side during shaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3437" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T13:54:54.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9992" CreationDate="2013-05-17T14:28:18.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should have a pretty good pressure buildup to stop liquids from coming up the line; although that won't stop excessive shaking from overwhelming the pressure in the gas line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Odds are you have a directional flow valve on your regulator, so you don't have to worry about gas being pushed back.  You probably shook the bottle of water hard enough to overcome whatever pressure you had on the gas which is why you saw water coming back up the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to gently rock the keg, you will most likely be fine.  I have never had a problem.  Although if you want to be doubly safe, you can put a check valve in line on your CO2 line which will prevent any liquids from coming back up the line.  At the very least this will stop the liquid from passing the check valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2135" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T14:28:18.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9992" CreationDate="2013-05-17T14:33:17.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only time I had liquid enter my line was when I had the gas tube on the bottom, keep the gas tube at the top when you rock and roll and you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T14:33:17.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9984" CreationDate="2013-05-17T17:49:39.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The three major factors that affect shelf life are sanitation, oxidation, and storage conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure everything is sanitized post-boil. If you need to touch a hose, wash your hands with anti-bacterial soap, etc. Fermenters, bottles, racking canes, tubing, caps -- everything should be sanitized immediately prior to use. A minor infection might not affect flavor at first, but it will get worse over time. Sourness is usually a sign of infection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxygen greatly decreases shelf life. Be very careful to avoid hot-side aeration (vigorous stirring or splashing while the wort is hot). After fermentation, be very careful not to splash or vigorously stir your beer when racking to secondary and bottling. The only time O2 is good is when the wort has been cooled after the boil you are working on getting fermentation started. Oxidized beer tastes flat, blah, stale and sometimes cardboard-like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store your beer in a temperature-stable place, preferably cool and dark. The warmer the storage area, the faster the changes due to infection or oxidation will occur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, serving temperature has a huge impact on flavor and aroma. The colder it is, the less flavor and aroma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastEditorUserId="3116" LastEditDate="2013-05-17T18:07:51.320" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T18:07:51.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9999" CreationDate="2013-05-18T01:24:40.393" Score="8" ViewCount="999" Body="&lt;p&gt;When bottling, is it wise to dunk the bottle capper in sanitizing solution or is that overkill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3448" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T02:37:09.143" Title="Sanitize the bottle capper?" Tags="|bottling|sanitation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9998" CreationDate="2013-05-18T01:38:02.603" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably overkill. Assuming the caps are sanitized, the capper does not come into contact with anything that it could spoil or infect on the bottle. At that point in your process, bottles and caps will be so covered by sanitizer, I'd say youre safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2711" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T01:38:02.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9998" CreationDate="2013-05-18T02:37:09.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to get really technical, you touch the handles of the capper, after which you may touch the inside of a cap before placing it on the bottle or on the capper magnet. But it's overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T02:37:09.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2013-05-18T07:03:58.030" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that all of the proceeding is accurate, would it not just be a &quot;honey brandy&quot;? I can imagine a very sweet flavor with an interesting aroma and probably fairly drinkable if not pleasant flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that mead was popular in Egypt, Turkey, etc. since the dawn of civilization and you can't be the first person in human history to think of this so I am going to do some research and check back tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3402" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T07:03:58.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7638" CreationDate="2013-05-18T14:07:44.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine arrived swollen as well. I put it in the fridge for a day and the swelling went down considerably. I was then able to pop the nutrient pack without bursting the whole package open. Fermentation began within 5 hours of pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3450" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-05-20T14:06:46.710" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T14:06:46.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9681" CreationDate="2013-05-18T22:56:15.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made two batches of beer using air popped corn. They were extract ales,  my first batch used 1lb of corn, my second batch used 2 lbs of popped corn, it takes a while to dissolve the popped corn in a kettle, but it will fit.&#xA;The first time I had it was from a micro brewery for a popcorn festival, and I was surprised as it was good, so I just had make some, overall it wasn't bad, one of my workmates was sure I had added salt,  but that is the power of suggestion, it being popcorn and all, now I learned not to say anything until they have had a bottle or so, it's interesting how the imagination works on people. &#xA;PS airpopping(No oil) negates mashing as the starches are modified for direct conversion with your malts. Any oisl will screw everything up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3451" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T22:56:15.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10023" CreationDate="2013-05-19T15:18:42.457" Score="1" ViewCount="1802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert brewer, but I've made 5-6 batches over the past 18 months. Process-wise, I feel like I know what I'm doing, but I am still learning different styles of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For summer, I decided to make a wheat beer. The recipe was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1700g of LME (Blackrock's Whispering Wheat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;900g DME (came with the kit, not sure exactly of the nature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermentis US-05&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6g bittering hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12g aroma hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG 1.045 FG 1.012 (the recipe suggested 1.044 and 1.011)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.. and the recipe said that the kit made 19L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 2 10L carboys, so I split the wort into 2 ~9.5L chunks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I bottled the first carboy (I am waiting on a few more bottles to do the second batch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I measured FG, I was happy to be matching the recipe almost exactly. However, when I drank the beer, I found it very watery. Another (amateur) homebrewer tasted it and confirmed.  The flavor was as expected for a summery wheat -- but it lacked that... body? ... that I would expect from a wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a SBRHAHB situation?  Will the carbonation and refrigeration bring it into line?  Or am I just going to have a VERY easy to drink watery wheat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2012" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T14:23:56.077" Title="Will a wheat beer taste watery before carbonation?" Tags="|water|wheat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10006" CreationDate="2013-05-19T15:43:50.400" Score="2" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night, I put my 1.130+ (it wasn't until midnight when I finished that I noticed that it was higher than my hydrometer and refractometer could go) wort in the carboy to ferment.  I wake up this morning, and as to be expected, it's going absolutely nuts, near filling up what was already a half full gallon jug of water + star-san for my blow-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell as there's so much blow-off in it that it nearly matches to the color of the carboy itself, but it looks like there's somewhere between a 1/4 - 1/3 gallon of yeast at the bottom of the jug.  I was wondering if it were possible to wash and can off that yeast?  Is it not worth it given what's going to be at the bottom of the carboy in a week after primary has finished?  As stated above, it was about 1/2 - 2/3 full of tap water and star-san before fermentation began.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T14:14:42.590" Title="Can I wash/re-use all that yeast in the blowoff" Tags="|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10005" CreationDate="2013-05-20T15:41:00.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that dumping the yeast is best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the yeast collected from blowoff is the best yeast for repitching as it has not been stressed by high alcohol levels. It's very much like top cropping in that regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your setup I'd worry about two things: the effect of StarSan on yeast viability, and contaminants that may be in your tap water. If you want to reuse yeast from blowoff, you could built e homebrew equivalent of a Burton Union System. BYO has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/american-amber-pale-ale/item/351-build-a-burton-union-system-projects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;good writeup&lt;/a&gt; on a DIY version. This collects blowoff in a sanitary manner making it safe for reuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-10-08T14:14:42.590" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T14:14:42.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10013" CreationDate="2013-05-20T18:10:30.300" Score="0" ViewCount="856" Body="&lt;p&gt;I kicked off a wildly out of date (2008) brew from a kit a few weeks ago. ( One of those kits with a packet of yeast and 2 large tins of goop.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brewing didnt go as well as I've had them go previously, but there was some pressure under the brew bucket lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway I checked the hydrometer and it seemed ok.  So I barrelled it with the extra bit of sugar too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However a week or so later there's no pressure at all in the barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I guess should I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) Decant back to the bucket and try again with another packet of yeast?&#xA;b) give up and get a kit that is in date? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3455" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T22:05:49.803" Title="Brew from an out of date kit - not fermented" Tags="|beer|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10021" CreationDate="2013-05-20T18:32:23.313" Score="5" ViewCount="5407" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got some peated malt that a friend gave me, and I've been looking for some way to use it. My current idea is to brew an Irish Red Ale (OG 1.055, FG 1.012, IBU 21, SRM 16) with just enough peated malt to provide barely noticeable smoke taste and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally decided on 1% peated malt (2oz in a 5.5 gallon batch) based on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/item/1720-smoked-beer&quot;&gt;BYO article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?20733-how-much-peat-malt&quot;&gt;forum thread&lt;/a&gt; suggests that 2% or 3% is provides light smokiness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brews-bros.com/index.php?/topic/53046-peat-smoked-malt-vs-smoked-malt/&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; seems to conclude that the proper amount of peated malt is zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have first-hand experience brewing with peated malt? Should I omit it altogether (and perhaps use Rauch malt instead)? Is 1% a safe amount?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T11:27:01.290" Title="How much peated malt to get a hint of smoke?" Tags="|recipe-formulation|smoke|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10025" CreationDate="2013-05-20T18:37:53.510" Score="1" ViewCount="1896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made some wine recently, and I screwed up slightly.  I degassed the wine the day I was going to bottle.  I let it sit a couple hours expecting the sediment to settle after I &quot;blended&quot; the wine, significantly disturbing it.  I guess I should have let it sit after that for days, rather than hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, what's done is done, and I have wine that has a lot of sediment in it.  When drinking it, almost the whole bottom half of the bottle is undrinkable! It &lt;em&gt;tastes&lt;/em&gt; fine, but the sediment feel is a tad overbearing.  So what do I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002CV90TM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;decantur&lt;/a&gt; with a sediment filter?  Should I just strain it through cheesecloth or something finer when I serve/pour it?  What's finer than cheesecloth and found easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts would be appreciated; I'm tired of not enjoying the fruits of my labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3341" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T16:05:17.137" Title="sediment in wine bottle, how to serve" Tags="|wine|filtering|sediment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-20T18:43:25.183" Score="4" ViewCount="18993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried making a few beers that I think have TOO much alcohol. I'd like to stop the fermentation before all of the sugars have fermented, and I'm wondering what the best way is to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard if you add priming corn sugar that the yeast will convert to only use that, so can I add the corn sugar and bottle will that do the trick? I'm a little afraid that if this doesn't fully stop fermentation that I'll have some explosions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I've thought about was using campden tablets, but my understand is that I'd have to add more yeast after that to ferment the priming sugar. And then I'd still run into the problem of stopping fermentation of the original grain sugars again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3456" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T23:09:54.937" Title="Stopping fermentation and then bottling" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|priming|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10010" CreationDate="2013-05-20T19:00:27.663" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should actually brew beers you want to drink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you brew kits, look for one that has the amount of alcohol you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are all grain, you can tweak any number of things to achieve the desired ABV - from type of yeast to mash temp etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yeah you can stop fermentation in your beer but its not a good idea. Unless you have a keg you will have still beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T19:00:27.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10010" CreationDate="2013-05-20T20:58:30.287" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using sorbate is the only way to have a chance of stropping fermentation and even that can be unreliable.  If you keg rather than bottle, attempting to stop fermentation is less dangerous since a keg won't explode like bottles can.  As has been said, the real solution is to brew the beer you want to drink.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T20:58:30.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10007" CreationDate="2013-05-20T21:56:28.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't waste time on such an out of date kit. Even if you get a new sachet of yeast (the supplied yeast is almost certainly not viable) the extract 'goop&quot; will probably have staled, tasting soapy and bitter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're better off getting a fresh kit. My very first brew was also a 5 year old kit, and all I produced was 20 liters of vinegar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-05-20T22:55:39.863" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T22:55:39.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2013-05-21T00:04:03.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That kick of ginger typically gets stronger with longer steeping time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some experimentation, I'm convinced that the &quot;bundenburg&quot; flavor comes from long steeping and pear juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T20:41:41.727" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T20:41:41.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9940" CreationDate="2013-05-21T00:33:02.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my favorite recent purchases was a large heat-tolerant gallon pitcher like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BC5GME&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one at Amazon&lt;/a&gt;. Marked at 1/8 gallon (1/2 qt) for measuring and useful for vorlaufing, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3391" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T00:33:02.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10009" CreationDate="2013-05-21T04:07:11.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I go through this with many gallons of wine in our kegs. In time, all sediment drops out, most within 1 week of transfer. This might seem too obvious and simple, but you must give it time. Any more &quot;movement&quot; and you will get more oxidation than you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rajanatha&#xA;Head Brewer of Kauai's Hindu Monastery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3460" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T04:07:11.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-21T04:46:34.573" Score="3" ViewCount="1632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing my first lager, a German Oktoberfest kit from Brewer's Best, after 12 batches of ales.  I fermented in the primary for 17 days at 58 degrees and then raised the temperature to 65 degrees for 4 days before racking to secondary.  Everything seemed to be going well as I was decreasing the temperature until I hit around 40 degrees when suddenly instead of blowing out of my airlock it appears to be trying to suck air in.  I am including my brewing record.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going on?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13th Brew               &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Type of Product:        German Oktoberfest Lager&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Date of Brewing:        Apr. 20, 2012       &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Date of Bottling        Jun. ??, 2013       &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volume of Water Added:  2.5 Gallons&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    (Fermcap S added to prevent boilover @ 1.5 drops per gal)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Type and Amount of Sugars Added:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;            6.6 lb. Munich LME (Briess CBW)&#xA;            1.0 lb. Amber DME&lt;br&gt;&#xA;        Specialty Grains&lt;br&gt;&#xA;            8 oz. Caramel 60L&lt;br&gt;&#xA;            4 oz. Caramel 20L   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Production Date (on can):   Jun. 25, 2012  (120725B1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops Added:     1 oz Bittering - Willamette AA 4.7%&#xA;            1 oz Flavoring - Willamette AA 4.7%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fining Agent:       1 Whirlfloc Tablet  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast Code on Sachet:   Brewferm Lager  BBE 01/04/2014&#xA;                050.030.6  20671&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature of Wort Before Adding Yeast:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;     (recommended &amp;lt;70º)         54º &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original Gravity (before pitching yeast):   1.054   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation Gravity Check&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    First Check May 3, 2013 - 1.021 @ 58º &#xA;    Second Check    May 5, 2013 - 1.020 @ 58º &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking Gravity (start of Lagering)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;            May 11, 2013 - 1.019 @ 65º &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gravity Check (during Lagering)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;            May 20, 2013 - 1.020 @ 38º &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3461" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T17:38:50.653" Title="Specific gravity is the wrong way" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10017" CreationDate="2013-05-21T09:03:52.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is quite normal. At the end of fermentation, there isn't much CO2 production - the yeast are conditioning the beer. Also, as the temperature falls, the pressure of the gas in the carboy decreases, which causes more air to enter from outside to equalize the pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the increase in gravity, 1 point is well within the error tolerance, and nothing to worry about. Again, during lagering, the gravity typically does not change much. Did you correct for temperature? If not, then that's why the gravity appears to increase - gravity increases as temperature falls, so you need to compensate for that using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixA.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;correction table&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T09:03:52.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10004" CreationDate="2013-05-21T10:19:53.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like it will be watery, though carbonation will add some mouthfeel so it depends on what you mean by watery. Usually, prior to carbonation, the beer will taste sweeter and a bit thicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be a bit much, but there's a lot of good information here and on the first two links from this page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/course/Class3Lesson1BodyandMouthfeel.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bjcp.org/course/Class3Lesson1BodyandMouthfeel.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3437" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T10:19:53.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10008" CreationDate="2013-05-21T13:18:58.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Purism aside about whether peated malt belongs in an Ale, I used peated malt in a Scottish Ale - just 0.7% of the grist. While I can't say I noticed a specific smokiness, there was a lot more going on in the beer ingredients-wise, but it did lift the ale and add complexity. I was very happy with the result. So, I'd go for 1%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best to add too little and work upwards - you'll still have a drinkable beer, but not necessary so if you add too much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T15:44:27.250" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T15:44:27.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9828" CreationDate="2013-05-21T14:34:37.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you should brew beers with the resources at hand. If your water is very hard, you may try dark ales like stouts rather than trying to modify your pH...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important parameter to measure is taste. If your water doesn't taste good, you probably need start looking elsewhere to find how to treat/buy for nice tasting water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/Water/water.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a usefull link&lt;/a&gt; to some US cities water profiles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hop this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3463" LastEditorUserId="3463" LastEditDate="2018-06-10T00:11:41.200" LastActivityDate="2018-06-10T00:11:41.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10004" CreationDate="2013-05-21T15:17:20.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;By watery, I assume you mean the body is lacking.  You can typically tell how much body you're going to have by the final gravity reading.  You're on the lower end of 1.012, which means it's ~12 gravity points above what plain water would be, so technically it isn't a whole lot but it is definitely noticeable (and frankly, about standard for a wheat beer).  Carbonation will help add mouthfeel to the beer, but it will only take you so far.  If you want to increase the body of the beer, you'll need to add more unfermentable sugars (next time obviously) to get the gravity higher.  During your next brew, check the FG of the recipe and see where it lands.  Based off what your current wheat beer will taste like after carbonation, take down some notes on the mouthfeel and body.  You can use those notes as a comparison against future recipes' FG to tell if it is going to be more or less than your current beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting, your recipe is a standard wheat beer, which is typically light in body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John Palmer has a good writeup on this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter20-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter20-1.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-05-24T14:23:56.077" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T14:23:56.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10017" CreationDate="2013-05-21T15:20:47.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that the change from 1.019 to 1.020 is within experimental error. I'm more concerned that fermentation seems to have stopped at such a high final gravity. 1.054 to 1.020 is only 63% attenuation. That yeast should give closer to 80%, which would be a final gravity of 1.011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless your intention is to create a beer with a high finishing gravity, I'd say you dropped the temperature too soon. My procedure for lagers, which I learned from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fermenting_Lagers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;German Brewing Techniques site&lt;/a&gt; is to raise the temperature when 80% of the expected attenuation is reached. This lets the yeast reduce any diacetyl that may be present, and finish fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, with your beer, when the gravity read 1.020, I would have brought the temperature up to around 65 F. for a diacetyl rest. Within a day or two, the beer will have finished fermenting at which time I would start dropping the temperature to begin lagering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is to slowly raise the temperature to the mid 60's to let the fermentation complete, and then ramp down to lagering temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T15:20:47.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10009" CreationDate="2013-05-21T16:05:17.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's just a little (a few centimetres) sediment at the bottom, then I'd say to just pour &lt;em&gt;slowly&lt;/em&gt; when you near the bottom of the bottle, and try to avoid shaking/disturbing the bottle too much when handling and transporting. Wine I've bought commercially sometimes has sediment and as long as you're careful, it's not a major problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it really is as much as you say (half a bottle?!) then it might be better to filter it carefully when you serve. Cheese cloth might be OK, a coffee filter is much finer (but much slower). If it's so much that it's hard to pour without disturbing the sediment, you could siphon to a new bottle (again, &lt;em&gt;slow&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;careful&lt;/em&gt;), and then serve from that one. Of course this will probably oxidize the wine, so you'd only want to do this before serving (maybe an hour or two?). I'm not sure what the risk is of leaving wine on that much sediment for long periods (in case you aren't planning to use it in the near future).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T16:05:17.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1618" CreationDate="2013-05-21T19:42:47.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that there is definitely an association with the type of extract used.  I bought about 20kg of extra pale no brand spray malt for brewing with speciality grain.  Every batch had a slight astringent note and more ester than I expected.  I tried everything (better temp control, different yeast.....).  The off taste only went away when I returned to reliable spray malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3464" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T19:42:47.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2038" CreationDate="2013-05-22T03:49:40.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most simplest, inexpensive, and fast ways to degas wine is to buy a metal paint mixer at Home Depot for $16. Stick it in a battery drill and spin that wine, after racking to secondary of course, until it practically foams over. Takes about six seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3460" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T03:49:40.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7079" CreationDate="2013-05-22T04:05:21.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes, the over-zealous approach is what messed up the wine. Degassing only takes a few seconds with the paint mixer in drill method. In my experience of &quot;natural degassing&quot; it didnt work. after 9 months i still had some CO2 in solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your on the right track, just only mix for about six seconds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3460" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T04:05:21.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10032" CreationDate="2013-05-22T08:28:37.723" Score="5" ViewCount="9372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005CIFIDO&quot;&gt;16oz amber e-z cap bottles&lt;/a&gt; (swing tops). I've read that they'll self-vent before exploding, but I've heard other accounts of them actually exploding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm storing them like &lt;a href=&quot;https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6ei5d6ntevA/UZMEpdsPZrI/AAAAAAAAHz4/Z_M8PjFEnhM/w480-h640-no/2013-05-14+20.44.18.jpg&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and it's been a week since bottling. I've been meaning to vent them a few days ago but forgot and tonight when I went to vent them I barely touched the swing top mechanism and it blew off (very loud, like warm champagne) and started gushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pressed the top back on and took it to the sink and after letting it settle for a few seconds was able to get the cap to stay shut. That one is in the back of the fridge currently. The rest are still in the cooler, and I've placed a few large ice chunks and brought the temperature down to ~50 degrees F so hopefully fermentation will slow down (if it's still going) and/or more CO2 will dissolve into the liquid until I can figure out what to do next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is exploding bottles... and the pressure is potentially still increasing every second (though unlikely after a week I would assume).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about venting the bottles? Would the safest way be under water in a bucket to slow down the glass if it does explode? Or should I just not be so worried and move them to the fridge ASAP and just be mindful while opening them later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How likely are these to just blow up in my hand while moving to the fridge or afterwards while opening? Is it normal for a swing top to just blow off like that at room temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips or advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much thanks in advance...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3436" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T16:55:03.520" Title="What's the best/safest way to handle likely bottle bombs?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|temperature|honey|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10031" CreationDate="2013-05-22T13:56:27.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are very thick bottles. While I wouldn't let them pressurize forever, if you keep them cold, wear leather work gloves, and bring them outside in a bucket of ice water, you should be able to open them safely (and messily). I also recommend using safety glasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For safety (and cleanliness) reasons, I wouldn't try to save them. You &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be ok if you can vent them without any gushing, but this depends on the reason for gushing. Were they infected or did you add too much sugar? More information is needed to tell you to save the beer, so my answer is to stay safe and get rid of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not possible to say how likely these are to explode or swing open on you during movement. I'd say unlikely at this time. If they do blow, chances are good they'll either just open or break where the metal top attaches to the glass (this will be a weak point). Again, wear gloves and put them in an ice bath to open/vent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3437" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T13:56:27.167" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10031" CreationDate="2013-05-22T16:31:02.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Thomas answered, safety is paramount right now.  Glass shrapnel is a serious reality, and you don't want that in your eyes, hands, face, anywhere.  Wear gloves, wear glasses, I'd even recommend a jacket/sweater when venting to keep shrapnel out of your arms/torso.  Keep your beer as cold as possible to slow down fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Store them away from anything that could be damaged by them exploding.  Your cooler that you have them in is probably ideal, as a bomb at most will just cover the rest of the bottles in beer.  While they are thick bottles, there's no telling how much pressure they are under, so move them outside in the cooler, don't carry them out individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on whether the beer is infected, it may even be salvageable.  As Thomas said, get them chilled down before venting.  The weak point is the cap.  Whenever you go to handle them, wear thick gloves and hold them by the top to cut down on potential shrapnel spread.  When going to vent them, cover the bottle cap with one hand to prevent shrapnel from shooting everywhere, while using your other gloved hand to pop the swing top.  If it's going to explode, this is most likely the time it will happen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer isn't infected, keep a few sanitized bottles, and a sanitized funnel readily available, as you may be able to salvage the beer with a bit of oxidation as the cost.  When they're that carbonated, they should keep in bottles.  If they're infected, toss them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T16:31:02.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10083" CreationDate="2013-05-22T18:40:19.053" Score="3" ViewCount="1786" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing a melomel and am putting some mangos in primary and again into secondary a month later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to put pectic enzyme into primary, do I need to put additional into the secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3326" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T17:45:59.173" Title="Pectic Enzyme in Secondary?" Tags="|mead|pectic-enzyme|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10035" CreationDate="2013-05-22T20:52:17.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last time I made mead I forgot the pectic enzyme completely. I added it about 4 months in and it still cleared up. I would say to just wait until the second addition to add it based on my experience, but perhaps someone else here can offer a better suggestion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T20:52:17.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10042" CreationDate="2013-05-23T10:21:11.127" Score="1" ViewCount="2363" Body="&lt;p&gt;The summer is approaching, and I would like to make some experiments using lager yeast, just completely out of its temperature range. I guess that steam bear was made using lager yeast at higher temperature. So I want to try using lager (I previously wrote ale by mistake) yeast at relatively hot temperature. What should I expect? Just a beer that tastes not right or may something interesting come?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Sorry for the inconvenience, I meant lager yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="2869" LastEditDate="2013-05-24T08:42:46.700" LastActivityDate="2013-05-26T00:49:21.073" Title="Lager yeast fermenting at 25-30C" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10040" CreationDate="2013-05-23T10:39:32.023" Score="3" ViewCount="15501" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I read in some answers to other questions they should not explode, is it true? Why is that? Is it because they have a safety valve or just because they are very strong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2021-09-23T21:49:55.987" Title="Can a keg explode?" Tags="|keg|pressure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10039" CreationDate="2013-05-23T11:06:18.957" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;At beer pressures, a keg cannot explode. It's designed to take much more pressure - rated to around 120-130 psi. Even at failure, the seals will fail rather than the chamber itself. Failing at standard beer pressures will be as a leak (pinhole or crack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which isn't to say they can't explode. It's a sealed pressurized vessel - so it &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; explode or implode. It's just not normal for beer to rapidly reach the pressure required to cause an explosion (or for outside pressure to cause an implosion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3437" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T11:06:18.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10038" CreationDate="2013-05-23T14:09:32.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;mdma is right, your question is a little confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You already described what you get when you ferment lager yeast at warm temps - A California Common (or Steam beer). California Common is typically very malty with fruity notes, and generally a good amount of hob bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you ferment Ale yeast warm you get a saison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can expect a whole lot of esters. Saison yeast is ale yeast that has a lot of pleasant spicy/clovey esters that really stand out when fermented hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be sure to do your research before you ferment out of recommended temperatures. Some yeast work, some will be awful. Wyeast 2124 and 2112 have produced good results fermenting warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T14:37:13.290" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T14:37:13.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10049" CreationDate="2013-05-23T17:49:35.157" Score="1" ViewCount="1384" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to world of finings. I figured i'd see if I could get a faster turnaround. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I'm kegging, then conditioning/force carbing at the same time at 40F. Can I cold crash, then on the next day add gelatine and start force carbing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3460" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T19:51:35.487" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T11:00:22.703" Title="Can one use gelatin while force carbing, or will CO2 keep gelatin suspended" Tags="|carbonation|finings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-23T18:21:33.193" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6707/how-well-does-liquid-yeast-travel&quot;&gt;related question&lt;/a&gt;, but not a usefull one to me :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to buy liquid yeast from northenbrewer (WLP099 in case you wonder) and I currently live in Venezuela, a very hot and sunny place (75 F average, but it could get much hotter sometimes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know (suspect) the liquid yeast is already in a &quot;quiescence state&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_cerevisiae#Life_cycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diploid&lt;/a&gt;) so it is resilient, but I would like to know &quot;how much resilient it gets&quot;, and if it would tolerate the travel adversities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ps: Average travel time is 2 weeks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3463" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T14:29:08.230" Title="&quot;Quiescence Yeast&quot; Or will my yeast-to-be survive a travel to the caribbean?" Tags="|yeast|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10035" CreationDate="2013-05-23T20:03:02.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enzyme&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;says&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As with all catalysts, enzymes are not consumed by the reactions they&#xA;  catalyze [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, once you've added the enzyme, it will still be around to break down more fruit later (assuming you've not boiled the enzyme, which denatures it, but of course that's not the case here.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you shouldn't need to add more to secondary since the enzyme will be carried over from primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T22:56:33.907" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T22:56:33.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10008" CreationDate="2013-05-24T00:40:01.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually began to write up an answer to this question back when it was first asked, but I scrapped it because I didn't want to sound like an idiot.  Now that I can confirm what happened, I feel more comfortable answering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled Stone's Smoked Porter recipe from their book, and brewed it a couple of months back.  It calls for ~3-4% peated malt.  Me being uneducated in the ways of peated malt biffed it and wound up with 4-5% peated malt in my brew.  I went to keg it, and I was sorely disappointed.  I didn't think I used enough.  Then I started to hear everyone say that you want less than what I put in, and I was confuddled.  I didn't know what I did wrong.  Did I undershoot the percentage by accident when mashing in?  I barely tasted any smokiness what-so-ever.  I didn't hesitate to bottle off what was remaining in the keg a couple of weeks ago to make room in the keg for my next beer.  Just now, I have the last remaining bottle (and the only bottle I've drank this from, the rest were readily given away to co-workers and friends) poured in front of me, and when I went to drink it, as mdma put it &quot;Who put out a bonfire in my beer!?!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moral of the less than helpful but hopefully insightful in a different way answer, aging will have a profound impact on the flavor of peated malt.  My beer wasn't matured by the time I took it out of secondary and kegged it (I don't have the records, but it likely sat in secondary for about a month and kegs for about 3 weeks after that before it went into bottles).  After it sat still in bottles for a couple of weeks and the &quot;green&quot; flavors dropped out, it tastes entirely different.  Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T00:40:01.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10063" CreationDate="2013-05-24T07:45:03.840" Score="4" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know how/if chemicals such as pesticides commonly found with conventional foods or even those found in tap water; how/if they affect the quality of the kombucha first or second stage brew (continuous brewing)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Studies have shown kombucha to have detoxifying effects on our internal organs, so at-least our organs are receiving this probiotic aid. Though I wonder does the fermentation process dismantle any chemical properties, or visa versa — can chemicals effect the quality of the fermentation process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T16:34:48.497" Title="How do conventional foods effect kombucha brewing?" Tags="|kombucha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4728" CreationDate="2013-05-24T09:48:15.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mikkeller makes a Single Hop IPA series, which consists of the same base beer (same malts from a single batch, same yeast) but each of the 20 beers are hopped with a different hop. This has been brewed with exactly your goal in mind: to get to know the character of each hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3474" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T09:48:15.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10043" CreationDate="2013-05-24T11:00:22.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; won't keep the gelatin suspended - it will sink as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; pressure is evenly distributed throughout the keg and applies pressure equally in all directions. There's no more CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; pressure pushing down than there is pushing up, so Gravity will still produce a downwards force, and the gelatin will sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T11:00:22.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10044" CreationDate="2013-05-24T14:29:08.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have shipped much more fragile patient biological samples (which is what yeast are) from Mexico to the US for research purposes. One big issue is if they get caught up in customs. Our samples of course were red flagged because we said what they were and had all the paperwork ready and with the package (seriously don't they have anything better to do). We packed our samples on ice packs and with a short stop over in Florida in customs by the time they go to us they had no ice left. End of story was the samples were fine even though they had spent some time at room temp in Florida (80+ degrees F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So keeping them cold especially for 2 weeks is a no go. But it is important to note that even at the temperatures that the yeast are likely to experience on the journey shouldn't kill them. Just might stress them out a bit. So once you receive your yeast make a starter culture out of them and you should be good to go. Just be prepared to wait in case they are shell shocked form the journey and use sterile technique when culturing from the liquid yeast starter. If the yeast are so stressed a lot of them die you may end up culturing local yeast/bacteria instead of your wanted yeast. But I bet it should work just fine so long as you do a starter culture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T14:29:08.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10053" CreationDate="2013-05-24T15:11:06.713" Score="1" ViewCount="993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some Brewferm Aroma malt 150 EBC. I think normally I couldn't because it is full of unconverted starch, but I would like to do some extract beer and use a little (5-10%) of it. Will it be bad if I steep it, or could I get good results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brouwland.com/shop/product.asp?cfid=4&amp;amp;id=1208&amp;amp;cat=1142&amp;amp;dt=24&amp;amp;shwlnk=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the link&lt;/a&gt; . Both Weyermann and Brewferm are cited. I guess the problem is the malt name is wrong on the online reseller, since the package I really got buying that one is &quot;Brewferm aroma 150 EBC&quot;, which is described as &quot;base malt&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewferm.be/fr/broeimouten.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastEditorUserId="2869" LastEditDate="2013-05-25T10:22:19.087" LastActivityDate="2013-05-27T15:00:32.320" Title="Can I steep aroma malt" Tags="|steeping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10051" CreationDate="2013-05-24T15:48:58.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not clear which malt you mean - there no &quot;Aroma&quot; malt from Weyermann. It could be either CaraAroma or Aromatic malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CaraAroma&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This you can steep with no concerns about the starches. CaraAroma is a crystal malt, which has had all the starches pre-converted to simpler sugars by the maltster. Steeping at 160&amp;deg;F is fine for this malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aromatic Malt&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Aromatic Malt is like a stronger version of munich. It's a lower EBC that you state, I list it here in case this was the one you intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the difference between steeping and doing a mini mash is more about what you call it rather than any significant the practical differences or extra equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you steep the aromatic grains on their own at 150F-155F you will in fact have a mini mash. The grains will &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Aromatic_malt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;self-convert&lt;/a&gt;, so you'll break down the starch into sugars, avoiding starch haze, which is the only reason you might want to mash rather than a regular steep. In this case, a mini mash is just a steep at slightly lower temperature than the usual 160F for a steep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you steeped the aromatic malt with other grains as normal, the diastatic power may be diluted too much to convert the starches in any useful timeframe, and you risk getting starch haze in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;With the new malt information given, you can simply go ahead and steep with the rest of the grains. If you want to avoid starch haze, you could do a mini mash with just the aroma malt an equal amount of 2-row, but this is just cosmetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-05-27T15:00:32.320" LastActivityDate="2013-05-27T15:00:32.320" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10051" CreationDate="2013-05-24T15:57:31.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At that color, there isn't much if any, diastatic power to the malt.  Steeping will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T15:57:31.537" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10060" CreationDate="2013-05-25T06:51:33.930" Score="3" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering options for kegerators... on a budget.  I have scoped out Craigslist, and I have seen a few pre-fabricated kegerators (not that I'm sold on going that route).  Obviously, the one-tap jobbers are more affordable than multi-tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if it's possible to replace the column on one of those, so that I can switch up to a multiple-tap system in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-05-26T22:39:00.040" Title="Are pre-fab kegerators modifiable?" Tags="|kegerator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10057" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10059" CreationDate="2013-05-25T21:27:08.573" Score="1" ViewCount="2317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm achieving a rather bizarre sense of enlightenment and was hoping someone could explain the impact that force carbonation in a keg vs. force carbonation in a keg with eventually bottling off would have on a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this because I am now on my second beer, this one being an IIPA (Belgian yeast) that I've bottled straight from the keg after it being in the keg for 3-4 weeks, and now that I just cracked one, 2-3 weeks after putting it in the bottles, it tastes profoundly different than when it was in the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will admit that the hop aroma is dying off (which frankly, given the amount of dry hopping I did, is probably a good thing), the flavor is still mostly there, but it seems a lot more well-rounded and not as disjointed as it did while it was in the keg (bubble gum aroma, not much hop flavor, enamel stripping bitterness, it all seems to be centering on each other into a balanced mix now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just the effects of aging?  I saw the same thing with a smoked porter using peat malt.  I kegged it at the same time I did this IIPA, and had I not known that I put peated malt in it, I never would have tasted it.  After I bottled it (again, same day as this IIPA, I used 4-5% peated malt), and let it sit until last Thursday, it tasted like someone encapsulated the entire Amazonian rain forest after being burnt to the ground by a bunch of torch wielding 7 foot tall blonde beauties all in one bottle.  I never got that sense of flavor when it was kegged, not even close, and I'm depressed that I drank almost all of it before I could get this flavor out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What gives?  Is it just age?  Does bottling with less head room for the CO2/beer to breathe have some sort of effect on flavor?  Is something else at work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-05-26T01:16:15.233" Title="Kegging vs. Bottling (force-carbonated), what's the difference in taste?" Tags="|bottling|aging|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10038" CreationDate="2013-05-26T00:49:21.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just kegged a lager that I fermented at 67 F (19.5 C), and am drinking the &quot;overflow&quot; right now. It's been six days since pitching (WLP 830) and the beer is quite drinkable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ferment in a 10 gallon Cornelius keg. After reading that fermenting under pressure can help with reducing esters formation in lagers, I decided to do an experiment. I fermented one batch at 53 F. at atmospheric pressure. I did another batch with the same recipe, but fermented at 67 F., under 25 psi of pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on doing a side-by-side comparison soon, but from the first taste I can say that it's definitely a lager. I'm tasting a very small amount of fruitiness (esters), and a little bit of butter (diacetyl), but no more than what I've tasted in some micro-brewery lagers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not a very good answer to your question, as you're probably not set up to ferment under pressure, and ambient temperatures in Canada are considerably lower than where you are, but I wanted to make this point: it's possible to ferment a lager at room temperature and not produce a estery, buttery abomination of a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-05-26T00:49:21.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10057" CreationDate="2013-05-26T01:16:15.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many small things at play, but only one major difference. When you bottle from a keg, the CO2 level in the keg will be higher than that in the bottle. You lose some CO2 during bottling. (The higher the number of volumes, the more you'll lose ... also, the higher the temps the more CO2 lost). When bottling for competition this is even truer - but this is due to serving: pourings are small, swirled, left out for a time, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of flavor in the long-term, bulk aging will allow all the beer to age together while aging in bottles may cause different flavors in different bottles. Yeast may still be at work, but this is less likely under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It almost sounds as though you have the common problem of kicking the keg just as the flavor is peaking. The only difference is that you notice it while the beer's in bottles - the flavor either peaks or has passed its peak. Do you ever taste them side by side (ket, bottle) after the beer has been bottled for a month or so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say for sure why you're noticing what you're noticing. Flavor changes during aging are pretty complex -- hop aroma loss is the most understandable, but even that doesn't make a whole lot of sense when the beer's totally sealed up. Flavor compounds break down and change over time and even the experts can't fully explain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3437" LastActivityDate="2013-05-26T01:16:15.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10056" CreationDate="2013-05-26T20:22:59.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The top cap of the tower is removable (at least on every tower I've ever seen). There is a piece that replaces the cap and adds a few inches to the tower's height. The result is your original single faucet with new faucets slightly above and to either side, like |* . *|.  The existing tower will need to be able to accommodate the two additional beer lines, and you may need to implement something to make sure cold air is going up into the tower to prevent foaming, but the answer is yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Googled &quot;Draft Tower Extension&quot; and found several options, including this one at Northern Brewer. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DOwzi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3391" LastEditorUserId="3391" LastEditDate="2013-05-26T22:39:00.040" LastActivityDate="2013-05-26T22:39:00.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10056" CreationDate="2013-05-26T22:37:40.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can probably do it a few ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Add an extra tower shank, like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/product_p/tower-shank.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/product_p/tower-shank.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Replace the entire tower: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Dual_Tap_Stainless_Steel_Beer_Tower_p/2tower%20tap.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Dual_Tap_Stainless_Steel_Beer_Tower_p/2tower%20tap.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, depending on the kegerator, you could add a second tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2013-05-26T22:37:40.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9902" CreationDate="2013-05-27T14:49:48.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a first infusion in vodka with the part displayed in my picture. I diluted around a teaspoon of it in a pale ale. It didn't smell like turpentine, it just remember pine. I have to admit that on the other hand the aroma was not that interesting. So my experience is that those parts of the pine can be used in secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-05-27T14:49:48.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10047" CreationDate="2013-05-27T18:35:04.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that chemicals in your starting ingredients can affect fermentation if they contain preservatives. I imagine the right (or wrong, depending on how you look at it) kinds of preservatives will prevent fermentation (that's sort of their job, you know). Of course, since kombucha is usually just made with water, tea, sugar, and a starter culture (which should already be alive and well), you'll probably only need to worry about preservatives if you add other flavours (such as fruit juice). I'm not 100% sure &lt;em&gt;which&lt;/em&gt; preservatives you should watch out for, but if you look for tips on making hard cider from juice, some websites will name which preservatives to stay away from. That would probably be a good place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as tap water, I'm not sure what chemicals would interfere with fermentation. I suppose if you're worried, you could get a water filter, or buy filtered or distilled water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm not sure if the fermentation process will neutralize any chemicals that might be harmful to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastActivityDate="2013-05-27T18:35:04.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-27T21:46:56.023" Score="12" ViewCount="1692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always disagreed with the idea that dry hopping or late hopping added 0 IBUs to your end product. If I ever brewed a kit or recipe and followed the hop schedule exactly, it would pretty much always end up too bitter. I found out that my local water pH was high (8.0) when running into some astringency issues and wondered if that had anything to do with it. At first I thought it was the high sulfate content in my water so I did the following tests. What I ended up finding is that lower pH (more acidic water) lessened the perceived bitterness in various hop tea tests. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two-water hop tea test&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 oz local tap water heated to 160F with 1 hop pellet CTZ (in PPM Ca=45,Mg=15,Na=65,SO4=125,Cl=50,HCO3=225)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 oz distilled water heated to 160F with 1 hop pellet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stirred and after 15 minutes examined. I noticed that with the tap water the hops didn't precipitate as much and clumped at the top. The local tap water produced a much more back-of-the tongue bitterness. I had two others test in a blind taste test and they all grimaced when they tasted the tap water hop tea.&#xA;The aroma was similar if not more pronounced with the distilled water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This led me to my next test, trying a cold hop test to mimic dry hopping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8oz local tap water (see above) with 5 hop pellets CTZ, crushed and stirred. Sat 40F for 12 hours. &#xA;8oz distilled water with 5 hop pellets, crushed and stirred. 40F for 12 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My results were similar to the hot hop tea experiment. The distilled water dry hop tea yielded a much less bitter result while the local tap water dry hop tea was very bitter and harsh. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I had figured it all out, there was some correlation with either high sulfate or HCO3 content but I wanted to see if PH was the determining factor instead of mineral content. I had read that high mineral content accentuated hop bitterness (famously so in Burton water) but in my quest to trying brew a really nice IPA with great aroma and low perceived bitterness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8oz local tap water (see above) with 5 hop pellets CTZ, crushed and stirred. Sat 40F for 12 hours. &#xA;8oz local tap water with 10 drops lemon juice, 5 hop pellets, crushed and stirred. 40F for 12 hours. No PH readings taken (broken pH meter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my surprise there was a big difference, it was very obvious that there was less bitterness with the acidic sample. Also on the high pH sample, the hops clumped at the top and left a clearer liquid. I couldn't notice a difference in aroma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone replicate this? Maybe someone with a good pH meter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3484" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T20:43:13.180" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T13:11:08.040" Title="Does PH affect hop bitterness?" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|bitterness|ph|acidity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10076" CreationDate="2013-05-28T01:06:05.860" Score="3" ViewCount="7196" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my second brewing attempt, I'm doing a Pale Ale, with this 20L&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=4334&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fresh Wort Kit&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=690&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;US-05 yeast&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put it in the fermenter 7 days ago, and it has remained fairly stable at 19° Celsius (66°F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I plan on dry hopping with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=1161&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;30g Galaxy Hops Pellets&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just like to confirm all that is remaining to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the specific gravity each day for the next 2 or 3 days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the hops out and bottle once it is stable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep bottles at 19 degrees for minimum 3-4 weeks before tasting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just want to make sure I'm doing this right!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any suggestions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3174" LastEditorUserId="3174" LastEditDate="2013-05-28T01:14:46.033" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T15:10:12.240" Title="How long to dry hop, then when to bottle and taste?" Tags="|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10065" CreationDate="2013-05-28T01:26:12.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With dry hopping, I'd recommend leaving them for at least a week and possibly two.  There's no real rush to bottle, and I usually leave the brew in primary for up to three weeks with no problems.  Everything else sounds fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3482" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-05-28T14:03:40.190" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T14:03:40.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-28T10:55:01.957" Score="5" ViewCount="9048" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it always necessary to carbonate your beer with sugar or tablets or is it possible to get the right amount of carbonation with the primary and secondary fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3488" LastEditorUserId="1561" LastEditDate="2013-06-04T18:55:20.870" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T16:29:58.457" Title="Can a beer be carbonated during primary or secondary fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|carbonation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10067" CreationDate="2013-05-28T11:10:02.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, no, not if you're using an airlock. You need pressure to reach the levels of carbonation required. With an airlock, you only get atmospheric pressure, so the pressure inside is the same outside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation is measured in volumes of CO2. 1 Volume of CO2 is the same volume of CO2 as beer - 2 volumes would be twice the volume of CO2 as beer at atmospheric pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At atmospheric pressure, fermenting with an airlock, you get about 1 volume of CO2 dissolved, yet common beer styles require 2.0 or more volumes to be considered carbonated - 2.4 vols is a common figure. To get more than 1 volume you need pressure. This is why carbonation is normally done in the bottle or keg where the required pressure can be maintained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were fermenting in a pressure-capable vessel, such as a keg, then you can pressurize the CO2 produced during fermentation. You use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.no/imgres?imgurl=http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/attachmenst/f51/43844d1326724661-spunding-valve-idea-spunding.jpg&amp;amp;imgrefurl=http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/spunding-valve-idea-295190/&amp;amp;h=427&amp;amp;w=640&amp;amp;sz=66&amp;amp;tbnid=QAo7HuOYD0OWzM%3a&amp;amp;tbnh=90&amp;amp;tbnw=135&amp;amp;zoom=1&amp;amp;usg=__loYiO2RT24erNRlxtkwxTDJzr8M=&amp;amp;docid=TjYgdvyysqghWM&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=W5CkUfacDqn74QTM74CYCg&amp;amp;ved=0CEYQ9QEwAg&amp;amp;dur=1569&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spunding valve&lt;/a&gt; and crank up the pressure towards the end of primary to increase the pressure inside the keg to the required level for carbonation - 12-15psi is common. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T11:10:02.073" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10075" CreationDate="2013-05-28T14:17:28.837" Score="0" ViewCount="11032" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok so I'm trying to make small 1 gallon batches of hard cider. I've already created 2 batches that sucked really bad (vinegary). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First batch: (pretty obvious why this one sucked)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;white house apple juice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;baking yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second batch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simply Apple as my base its pasteurized with no preservatives&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used a half packet of champaign yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 cups brown sugar disolved in 2 cups water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reliable recipe for doing a small 1 gallon batch of cider w/o having to press apples?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3216" LastActivityDate="2018-10-27T09:55:14.177" Title="What am I doing wrong with my Hard Cider" Tags="|cider|vinegar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2662" CreationDate="2013-05-28T14:45:36.957" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stouts dont need water adjustments, the higher the pH the better - dark malts absorb alkalinity and levels the pH automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3490" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-05-28T15:04:03.020" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T15:04:03.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10067" CreationDate="2013-05-28T16:27:19.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; brief experience, CO2 released during primary fermentation is lost from the airlock.  The pale that I just bottled was effectively flat after two weeks in primary with a three-piece airlock.  (Or maybe I'm Doing It Wrong.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T16:27:19.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10073" CreationDate="2013-05-28T17:52:01.507" Score="1" ViewCount="1085" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than tell you what hops I have leftover from my last brew, I'd like to know... are there any online resources that can suggest recipes based on what I have, similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cocktailbuilder.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cocktail Builder&lt;/a&gt;?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My LHBS sells hops in 2oz packages, which will last a while with 1G brews.  Of course, the obvious answer is &quot;brew the same beer again!&quot;, but that's not as exciting.  :)  In theory, I should be brewing often enough to go through my freezer stash, but even so, I'd like to be able to figure out what to do with that package I found at the back...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T18:35:41.313" Title="What to do with leftover hops?" Tags="|hops|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10072" CreationDate="2013-05-28T18:35:41.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way is to build your own recipes. With the AA%, amount, time, and pre-boil gravity of wort you can create a recipe with the right IBU levels. The easiest way to do this is using software. &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Smith&lt;/a&gt; is what I use - there is also a Beer Smith mobile app for iOS and Android. Other (free) applications and web apps are available. In my opinion, hops are the easiest way to change up recipes on your own... the same malt bill from online sources or books can make a very different beer with different hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all you want to do is calculate IBUs, try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/ibu-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend&lt;/a&gt; or other web based tools. Brewer's Friend will also calcualte &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;full recipes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to keep track of what stores of ingredients you have, Beer Smith may be your best bet - it can do this, and will calculate the cost of your recipe. I don't use this feature, though, and don't know which other tools that will do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For much more information on the subject of designing recipes, turn to homebrew books like &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/0937381500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Designing Great Beers&lt;/a&gt; by Ray Daniels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3437" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T18:35:41.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10065" CreationDate="2013-05-28T19:21:24.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on what flavor profile you are going for. I like to dry hop for 3-5 days. IMO You really do pick up a lot of flavors from the hops in that time frame. I typically don't want very intense aroma's however so if you are looking for that intense hoppyness you should go at least a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave the hops in the fermenter too long and you will most likely end up with a vegetal character present in your beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experiment and find your sweet spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With dry hopping (depending on your method) you don't necessarily have to &quot;take the hops out.&quot; I dry hop with hops directly in the liquid with no bag or anything. I let everything settle and then I rack. Some &lt;em&gt;light&lt;/em&gt; shaking each day will help the hops settle to the bottom and let you transfer like normal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T19:21:24.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10069" CreationDate="2013-05-28T19:59:14.580" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the cider is really turning into vinegar, than you've got a bacterial infection, probably &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid_bacteria&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;acetobacter&lt;/a&gt;. This bacteria will metabolize alcohol into acetic acid.  Acetobacter is present in small quantities in apple juice. It's also carried by fruit flies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three things you can do to fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Observe proper sanitation technique. Anything the contacts the juice or the finished cider should be free of contaminants like bacteria, mould, or wild yeast. Palmer's &lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt; has a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter2-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;section&lt;/a&gt; on sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dose the juice with potassium metabisulfite 24 hours before pitching the yeast. This shouldn't be necessary with pasteurized juice, and a lot of cider makers (myself included) skip this step even with raw juice.  The k-meta will reduce activity from bacteria and wild yeasts, given the brewer's yeast a head-start at becoming the dominant micro-organism.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And it goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway) -- use an airlock during fermentation to prevent any airborne contagions (including flies) from getting at the juice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-05-28T21:45:50.897" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T21:45:50.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10065" CreationDate="2013-05-28T21:40:33.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chances are, after 7 days, you're likely done fermenting, but I would check to make sure you hit your final gravity range before considering doing any dry hopping.  You don't want to dry hop during an active fermentation as a lot of the potential aroma you would otherwise get drops out due to the yeast actively working to ferment the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'll typically do when dry hopping, especially if it's a hop combination I enjoy a lot of, I'll double up on my dry-hopping schedule.  I'll get twice the amount of hops, split them in half, then dry hop the first batch for seven days.  After seven days, I'll take out the hops, and put the second half in for another 7 days.  After that, rack it off into bottles or kegs.  This may not be ideal for all use cases, but I love an intense hop aroma, and cycling through two dry hop rotations really does amplify the aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it's been said above, 2-3 days is too short, and 14+ days &lt;em&gt;with the same hops&lt;/em&gt; is too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T21:40:33.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10077" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-29T03:52:02.343" Score="2" ViewCount="3734" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &quot;party&quot; pump tap. I want to convert this to use on a DIY kegerator. Can this be done? After taking the tap apart it looks pretty basic: CO2 in one side, beer out the other. I am specifically interested in what the threading is on this tap where the pump connects.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tdtrW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3495" LastEditorUserId="3495" LastEditDate="2013-06-02T19:55:35.653" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T21:49:38.037" Title="convert pump tap to kegorator tap" Tags="|kegerator|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10079" CreationDate="2013-05-29T04:02:04.783" Score="5" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen most in-home kegerators have the CO2 tank and regulator &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the fridge. But I remember from my bar-working days that the CO2 tank was &lt;em&gt;outside&lt;/em&gt; the fridge. Does this really make a difference? If I had a setup that required the CO2 tank outside the fridge, how much am I losing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3495" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T13:11:53.670" Title="Is cold CO2 required for proper kegerator?" Tags="|keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10078" CreationDate="2013-05-29T13:11:53.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it makes no difference - the CO2 is already liquid, and the difference between fridge and room temperature doesn't make any significant difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the CO2 comes out of the tank and converts to gas, it becomes much colder - again, significantly more colder than the difference between fridge and room temp. So again, no real difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is does make a difference to some people is aesthetics - a CO2 tank in the kegerator looks cleaner from the outside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T13:11:53.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10116" CreationDate="2013-05-29T14:48:23.983" Score="2" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a good deal with some White Labs yeasts, including one Brettanomyces bruxellensis (WLP650), and I really don't know how to brew with it. Should I use it only for secondary or could I made a fruit lambic with an ale yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; OK, simple question, do I need an ale yeast to ferment a Lambic with Brett?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastEditorUserId="2775" LastEditDate="2013-05-29T19:22:25.490" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T23:11:09.780" Title="Brewing with brettanomyces bruxellensis" Tags="|brettanomyces|lambics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9902" CreationDate="2013-05-29T15:57:10.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had &amp;amp; made a few spruce/pine beers. I would use this as flavoring. using new growth needles. you could place them in the boil, or steep the cuttings and add at bottling/kegging. the flavor is potent so you will want to go easy on adding them. or age it for a long time to allow the flavors to mellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T15:57:10.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9902" CreationDate="2013-05-29T17:26:00.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a Drake's / Faction Brewing collaboration IPA: &quot;Tree Beer&quot;, made with whole branches of a Grand Fir tree throw into the boil.  I couldn't tell you the boil time or quantity used (except that I saw the tree itself, a good 6' tall at least, in their cooler beforehand, but who knows how much was actually used).  I don't know about preservative qualities, but I can say that it did not replace the hops, and made the beer smell (and to a lesser degree, taste) like a freshcut evergreen.  In my mind, it was &lt;em&gt;delicious&lt;/em&gt;.  In my fiance's mind, less so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T17:26:00.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10035" CreationDate="2013-05-29T17:45:59.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Enzymes are catalysts and are not used up in the process of converting the substrate, that much is true. However, enzymes are not being introduced into a stable environment when being put into your melomel. Think about it, there is alcohol, the pH is very low, there is nothing to stabilize the enzymes, etc. Most likely the enzymes added in the beginning are dead(denatured) within the first week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a good idea to dose again when more mangoes are added for increased extraction, or add the enzymes later for clarification purposes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3500" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T17:45:59.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10085" CreationDate="2013-05-29T19:28:50.640" Score="2" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created a yeast starter from some yeast from my primary fermenter and some DME following standard steps and the fermentation looked great.  However, I went on vacation and forgot to put my yeast after it was done w/fermentation in the refrigerator.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the yeast still good to use if I make another starter wort and add this yeast to it, or should I throw it out?  I have not touched it since it finished, so it is still sitting in a growler with a airlock and looks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3501" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T21:23:59.417" Title="Yeast starter left out of refrigerator, is it OK?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10084" CreationDate="2013-05-29T21:23:59.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you were careful and didn't introduce too much other yeasts you should be able to culture them again from the yeast in the growler. The biggest potential issue would be that the yeast are stressed from being out at RT with no nutrients. So what you can do is start a new starter. Then transfer cells from this culture and that should start a new starter culture with happier yeast. Beyond that as long as you can get a starter going with the yeast, which most likely shouldn't be a problem, then you are going to be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T21:23:59.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10087" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-05-30T17:56:20.713" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T17:56:20.713" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T17:56:20.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10088" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-05-30T17:56:20.713" Score="0" Body="The old-fashioned fizzy ginger-flavoured drink, carbonated with yeast; this comes in both alcoholic and non-alcoholic versions." OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T19:09:02.393" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T19:09:02.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-30T18:07:27.457" Score="5" ViewCount="7021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a batch of alcoholic ginger beer. However, I know from past experience that one problem with ginger beer is that the bulk of the fermentation happens in the bottles, and I can't drink it fast enough: it gradually hardens and gets more and more bitter (and more alcoholic) until the last bottle is nigh-undrinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's a good way to prevent this from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gather that when making, um, non-ginger beer (is there a term for this?), fermentation is controlled by using a mixture of sucrose and lactose. Apparently the yeast will feed off the sucrose but not the lactose, so once the yeast has consumed all the sucrose fermentation stops but you still get a sweet flavour from the lactose. OTOH I have also seen ginger beer kits that have artificial sweeteners in them, probably for the same reason. I can't stand the taste of these; does lactose affect flavour? And would this work with ginger beer anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other techniques I should look at? Obviously because the bottles are pressurised I can't take the lid off to add anything when I want fermentation to stop. Another thing that might work is irradiation, but unfortunately my fission reactor's on the blink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-05-31T11:01:33.033" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T11:01:33.033" Title="Ginger beer that lasts" Tags="|fermentation|storage|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10089" CreationDate="2013-05-30T18:23:06.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think if you want a sweet-flavored, lightly-alcoholic (under 10%ABV) beverage that is also carbonated, you're going to have to keg and force carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to slow the yeast down with refrigeration, but any that live will pick up and keep going if you ever remove your bottles from the cold environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kits include non-fermentable artificial sweeteners to get around the very problem that you're having.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T18:23:06.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10093" CreationDate="2013-05-30T23:08:37.953" Score="4" ViewCount="1687" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've searched far and wide and can't find a good answer. Seems to be a lot of talk about the sulphur smell I noticed during fermentation, but this is a bit different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f71/blue-balls-belgian-wit-blue-moon-clone-24978/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; masterpiece up and bottled a few weeks ago, my first witbeer but one of a few of Biermuncher recipes I've made. All have been good so far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I chilled and cracked one open last night, poured it and almost dropped the glass when it got close to my face.  The smell. It was so rank, like someone farted on it - Seriously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As any good brewer would, I held my breath and took a gulp. It tasted really really good. Added a slice of orange which covered up the smell a little, enjoyed the rest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is: What's up with the stank odor?    What did I do wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3371" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-06-01T02:31:20.827" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T03:47:18.830" Title="Why does my witbier stink?" Tags="|yeast|bottle-conditioning|aroma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10089" CreationDate="2013-05-31T01:46:28.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can ferment the ginger beer until it's completely dry and then sweeten it when serving. Make a simple syrup (boil equal weights of water and sugar until the sugar has dissolved). Put a small amount of syrup in the glass before pouring the ginger beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit more work, but aside from pasteurizing, I don't know any other way to get a sweet, low alcohol drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T01:46:28.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10091" CreationDate="2013-05-31T13:02:17.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you are detecting the sulfur produced by the yeast. Hefe or Wit yeast in wheat beers can absolutely produce this compound, so its not unusual to encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had it appear a few times before, and I believe it fades out over time. I mostly keg, but I can recall getting strong sulfur production in a Hefe with WLP351, which was bottled and seemed fine after a few weeks of aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T13:02:17.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10096" CreationDate="2013-06-01T19:33:37.127" Score="6" ViewCount="2911" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soooo, I know that &lt;em&gt;sunlight&lt;/em&gt; is harmful to beer.  I am bottling into brown glass, so that part is covered.  But for primary fermenting, I'm using a clear glass carboy, and I'm keeping that in a closet.  (Secondary fermentation, if I do it, will be in a dark green glass carboy.)  Ninety percent of the time, the light is off in the closet, but there are occasions where the fiance or I forget to turn off the lights, or I'm going in and out frequently for a couple of hours and leave the lights on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found an answer regarding &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/7774/3466&quot;&gt;flourescent&lt;/a&gt; lights, and another answer for &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/3697/3466&quot;&gt;incandescent&lt;/a&gt;, but my lights are halogen track lighting.  I don't know enough about physics to say for sure, but I'm guessing that the answer is similar: halogens won't have a tremendous effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct, or do I need to be super-vigilant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T16:29:09.943" Title="Light &amp; fermenting" Tags="|fermentation|skunk|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10077" CreationDate="2013-06-02T01:46:28.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegworks.com/us-sankey-coupler-d-system-stainless-steel-416-p21107&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sankey keg coupler&lt;/a&gt; which is the standard coupler for commercial beer kegs. Sankey kegs have a single port which both lets gas in and beer out. Hooking it up to a CO2 tank and a tap is no problem -- it's just a matter of getting the right connectors and hoses. However, if you're planning on serving homebrew, you might have problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most homebrewers use soda kegs (often referred to as &quot;Cornerlius kegs&quot;, though there are many other brands) which have two separate valves for beverage (out) and CO2 (in). Importantly, they also have a large opening at the top which is very handy for filling and cleaning the keg. Sankey kegs just have the single port and no opening. So, there's no simple way to clean or fill the keg without specialized equipment. If you Google &quot;sankey homebrew&quot;, you'll see how others have dealt with the difficulties of using these kegs for homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, one the other hand, you're planning on serving commercial beer from you kegorator, then the Sankey connector is exactly what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T01:46:28.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10094" CreationDate="2013-06-02T10:45:17.430" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;For skunked beer, we're worried about Violet and UV light. There's a lot of information available on this, so I won't go into that science. Basically, we want to limit as much light less than 500nm as possible and all light under 400nm (UV) if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Halogen bulbs follow a similar pattern to incandescent bulbs (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halogen_lamp#Spectrum&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ref&lt;/a&gt;). This chart compares different bulbs, but halogens are not included.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/znmKP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Comparison of Light Bulb Spectra&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that there's a big spike around 400nm in CFLs, as well as a small one below 400nm. There's also a lot more energy between 400 and 500nm compared with incandescents. LED light would likely have the same skunking problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare this to the spectrum of halogen bulbs. The maximum intensity in this chart is approximately the same as the maximum intensity of incandescent light in the previous chart.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JJUjk.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Halogen Bulb Spectrum&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you shouldn't leave the light on, but also yes, it won't be as bad as CFLs. I suggest you put a dark T-shirt over the carboy for those times when the lights are on all night long. Even regular light bulbs will skunk beer if the exposure is over too long a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3437" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T10:45:17.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10094" CreationDate="2013-06-02T15:50:15.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cover the carboys in a blanket for no light exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-06-05T15:09:03.527" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T15:09:03.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10100" CreationDate="2013-06-02T21:32:10.610" Score="3" ViewCount="2649" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has become clear that I need to practice my transfer techniques; I just completed a primary-to-secondary transfer which involved what I'm guessing is a fairly significant amount of aeration.  During my transfer (1-gallon basic brown beer, direct from carboy to carboy; no intermediate pot), I used an auto-siphon, and ended up pumping oxygen in.  In addition, there was air in the line even while the beer was flowing (which I had to restart several times).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, if a beer gets aerated, is it a solid bet that the beer will be oxidized and pick up that &quot;musty, cardboard, stale odor and flavor&quot;?  Should I not get my hopes up, or might things still work out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last night, I opened one of the bottles.  Much to my surprise, it was &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; awful!  The carbonation was a little low, it could have had more flavor, and it was a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; stale, but it was not the disaster that I was expecting.  Hooray!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastEditorUserId="3466" LastEditDate="2013-06-23T15:58:07.550" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T15:58:07.550" Title="Oxidization during transfer" Tags="|oxidation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10098" CreationDate="2013-06-02T22:11:13.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would you need to restart the siphon several times?  With an auto-siphon, you should have one or two strokes of the wand, and then it siphons until finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, why are you doing a transfer to secondary at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for air in the line during the transfer, I find if I pinch, rotate and/or constrict the flow near that point where a bubble is present, you can usually &quot;fill it in&quot;, and get the bubble to clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T22:11:13.130" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10098" CreationDate="2013-06-02T23:35:56.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bubbles are large so although some oxygen will have been absorbed it's not as much as say sloshing the beer around in the carboy for 60 seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer will probably oxidize in time, say 2-4 weeks, but you can do two things to mitigate this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drink the beer within a couple of weeks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;store the beer at fridge temp. This will reduce the rate of staling considerably compared to storing at room temp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these measures, the beer should not oxidize much before it's been consumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T23:35:56.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10103" CreationDate="2013-06-03T02:42:52.673" Score="1" ViewCount="2716" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Context:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently working on a batch of jalapeno-cranberry wine.  It's been in primary for five days so far and I am beginning to suspect I have flowers in my wine.  I was not too concerned earlier this week as I thought it was just residual foam from an active fermentation, but the more time goes by, the more I suspect there is a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I view the must, it appears as if there are little flecks / clumps of yeast floating on the surface and around the edges of the straining bag and the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell if I have flowers for sure?  If so, how can I tell between spoiled yeast being the cause or bacteria?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/problems.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reference&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yirdv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xcVbT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3471" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-06-04T15:01:33.513" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T15:01:33.513" Title="Flowers of Wine (Problem)" Tags="|yeast|wine|primary-fermentation|problems|bacteria|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10098" CreationDate="2013-06-03T03:44:11.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say keep your hopes up.  Unless you pumped a ton of air through it, I don't think it will absorb as much as you think it will.  The real problem comes when you slosh it around in the carboy afterwards if you are moving it to a fermentation vessel or closet somewhere, since you removed the layer of CO2 that was resting on top of the carboy and replaced it with oxygen.  If this is a concern, transfer it where the secondary carboy will be sitting for secondary fermentation, and don't move it, or use a CO2 tank from a kegging system to purge out the oxygen with CO2 before capping it with an airlock and moving it around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try a few basic things to keep from oxidyzing during transfer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the &quot;out&quot; end of the rubber hose submerged in the beer in the secondary carboy until the very end of the transfer has completed.  Also, keep it at the bottom of the carboy, so it isn't splashing when beer goes in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the &quot;in&quot; end of the siphon always submerged in your primary vessel.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With your auto siphon, don't ever use it to transfer hot (as in a boiling or near-boiling) liquid, as it will deform the auto siphon and may ruin the seals necessary to keep air out when transferring (personal experience on this one, my first half-assed attempt at fly-sparging).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on the platforms you are transferring to and from (where your two carboys are at when siphoning), make sure you have more than enough tubing for your siphon.  Don't cut yourself short and have to complicate your siphoning process by stacking books under carboys or moving chairs around, just keep it simple and get the right amount plus a foot or two extra, it'll save you a huge amount of hassle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With experience you'll get better, you just need to try it a few times to get it right.  The important ones are steps 1 and 2 above.  As long as you keep both ends of the siphon submerged during transfer (past the beginning couple of seconds), there's no way for air to mysteriously get in until the very end, at which point you simply pull either end out and the suction will not pull further air into the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-06-03T22:00:32.790" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T22:00:32.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10101" CreationDate="2013-06-03T10:08:44.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to tell for sure is to wait. You can't fix the problem if you have one. You just finished primary fermentation: it's not uncommon to have left over yeast all over the place; you haven't cleared your wine yet, whether with time or chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also see many images of others' infections via Google images. If the flowers are just starting to form, they may be impossible to tell apart from many other, normal conditions. Once your pellicle forms you will usually be able to tell what type of bacteria or yeast infection it is. At that point, posting a picture will elicit a response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a microscope, you could look at a sample. Most bacterial infections will have elongated bodies while yeasts are round. This will not differentiate between infections of yeast and wine yeast without an expert opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3437" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T10:08:44.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-03T12:16:32.960" Score="0" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing a black lager and was wanting to do a rest. I read the instructions wrong and placed it in the secondary. Is it too late to do the rest? Is the new added oxygen going to actually make it worse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3508" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T15:15:08.100" Title="black lager and diacetyl rest" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|lager|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10104" CreationDate="2013-06-03T15:15:08.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may not need a d rest at all, so in that case you'd be OK.  I only do a d rest when I actually taste diacetyl in the beer and that doesn't happen often.  The purpose of a d rest is to make the yeast more active so they'll consume dicaetyl.  Obviously, that would work better in primary where there's more yeast, but there should still be enough yeast in secondary for it.  Between that and the fact that you may not need it at all (do you taste diacetyl?), I think you'll be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T15:15:08.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-03T17:51:28.703" Score="2" ViewCount="933" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing 6 batches of Ale and I've had problems with sweetness and banana like aroma and taste (esters probably). I think the problem is the fermentation temperature. My fermentation bucket sits in a room with a temperature ranging from 20 to 27 celsius (68-81 fahrenheit). The only brew that tasted &quot;right&quot; was a stout but the roasted barley might have just masked the sweetness. The sweetness is present after few days of fermentation and then gets stronger. I have used US-05, WY 1056 and WY 1272 yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of making a fermentation chamber from a larger bucket (than the fermentation bucket) with insulation of the outside. The temperature would be controlled with adding cold water to the bucket and removing warm water. Do you think this would do the job? If I have understood correctly the first days of the fermentation are the most important temperature wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3248030/beer/fermentation.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3248030/beer/fermentation.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3250" LastEditorUserId="3250" LastEditDate="2013-06-04T06:24:23.843" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T10:56:18.720" Title="Too much sweetness and banana like aroma/taste" Tags="|fermentation|temperature|ale|sweetness|banana|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10107" CreationDate="2013-06-03T18:22:59.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's certainly possible that the banana esters are due to warm fermentation temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After sanitation, I'd argue that the most important step in brewing is fermentation temperature. You want both the &lt;strong&gt;correct&lt;/strong&gt; temperature for your yeast (each yeast varies so check the manufacturer), and a &lt;strong&gt;consistent&lt;/strong&gt; temperature. The method you mentioned helps primarily with regulating temperature fluctuation, but it can be helpful in maintining the correct temperature, too, if you're diligent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T18:22:59.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-03T18:43:42.007" Score="2" ViewCount="728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2173/is-normal-pvc-tubing-okay-for-a-racking-tube&quot;&gt;some people say&lt;/a&gt; that PVC is fine for racking tubes, but I have someone who is looking for an alternative--HDPE or PP would be acceptable but not preferred.  Since PVC is the only type of plastic tube our local hardware store sells, are there some DIY alternatives that have worked well for people?  (Caoutchouc?  Sheep's intestine?  What'd we use for this before plastic came along?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3422" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T00:53:41.020" Title="Non-plastic siphon tube" Tags="|racking|siphon|plastic|diy|blow-off-tube|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10109" CreationDate="2013-06-03T19:36:15.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of brewers use silicone tubing for hot liquids, but there's no reason aside from cost not to use it for racking as well. That will take if the tubing part but you've still got to deal with the racking cane which is rigid. Copper or stainless tubing could be bent into the correct shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-06-25T00:47:44.313" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T00:47:44.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10107" CreationDate="2013-06-04T04:19:56.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9788/would-placing-the-fermenter-tank-in-a-tub-of-water-be-a-good-way-to-handle-hot-e&quot;&gt;Would placing the fermenter tank in a tub of water be a good way to handle hot environments?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started brewing extracts a couple of months ago and I started to do the &quot;swamp cooler&quot; method which sounds similar to that which you have postulated. The only difference is that I never replace the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using a outer bucket filled with water up to the level of the fermenting wort, and make sure the bucket has a large enough diameter so that you can add frozen water bottles to it. I do this every hour on hot days (like yesterday!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a thermometer and measure the ambient temperature of the room the fermenting wort is, and then measure the water in the outer container, and note the difference. If the water is at 75*F, you may not have to add water bottles, although I do during the first 4 days of fermenting because supposedly the exothermic reaction adds 10*F, so I add enough frozen water bottles during that time to knock it down to 65*F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure the outer container is not to tall. Place a black t-shirt over the fermenting-bucket/carboy and then place a fan at the t-shirt (the shirt wicks up water, the fan evaporates the water, leaving you another 10-15*F to not worry about).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T04:19:56.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10113" CreationDate="2013-06-04T17:23:59.337" Score="1" ViewCount="812" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3FiaB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;OH NO!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why did this happen?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this bad? Aside from wasting beer, it seems to me that this would invite infection? If it means anything, I smelled the airlock and it seemed mostly vinegar, but tasting the airlock (and spitting it out) revealed no vinegar taste, more of a terrible beer taste.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: This is my fourth batch of extract brewing. This is the second time I used an aeration stone. I pitched the yeast on Sunday around 4pm. I believe it was fine this morning (Tuesday) at 8am, although I might not have actually looked. At 10am it was overflowing. I followed the kit instructions perfectly and had 5 gallons of wart in the 6 gallon bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sanitized a new airlock and replaced it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2013-06-04T17:34:50.203" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T17:42:53.300" Title="Why did my airlock overflow?" Tags="|airlock|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10112" CreationDate="2013-06-04T17:42:53.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a vigorous fermentation to me. Consider switching to a blowoff tube for the primary. Its nothing bad, and I wouldn't worry about infection at this point, it will settle down in a few days to a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T17:42:53.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10115" CreationDate="2013-06-04T18:00:40.957" Score="7" ViewCount="700" Body="&lt;p&gt;Planning a strong &amp;amp; sweet Belgian style ale, I expected OG to be as high as 1.096. Because of my extremely amateur setup, I used two pots instead of one big one for the boil (between them both I managed to fit in only 2 gallons of wort, out of a 5 gallon batch). OG ended up a whopping 1.103!!! I believe this is due to high evaporation (and I suspect that the specialty grains soaked a large amount of water up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK so now fermentation. It took less than a week to drop to 1.040, but we're at 2.5 weeks now and it doesn't seem to be budging from 1.038. Even after swishing the carboy around a few days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm perfectly happy with the taste and sweetness of this beer. But if I bottle at FG 1.038, is this a bottle bomb waiting to happen? Or does one of the following scenarios sufficiently explain the phenomenon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The yeast (S-33) has reached its alcohol tolerance, and cannot ferment the brew further. (The beer is at either 8.5% or 9.5% ABV, depending on what formula you use.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enough yeast pitched (1 packet, rehydrated &amp;amp; proofed, and lots of hand-aeration).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small boil volume has reduced efficacy of process to break down sugars, leaving unfermentable sweetener in the mix.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small boil volume has increased caramelization of sugars, rendering them unfermentable. (Seems likely due to flavor.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large amounts of Mystery Proteins in the wort (evidenced by foam that never stopped appearing in one of the pots).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divine intervention / household hobgoblin / angry ghosts of Belgian beer crafters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation temp is not an issue. It hasn't gone below 25C/77F during the entire fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate any insight. Especially &quot;just bottle it and it will be fine&quot;. I'm hoping for that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3009" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T19:57:34.133" Title="Is this a bottle bomb waiting to happen?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10114" CreationDate="2013-06-04T19:14:47.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be willing to bet that the high FG was due to insufficient yeast pitching.  By itself, most yeast can handle up to 13% ABV, so it isn't the intolerance of your alcohol level.  I would recommend doing a yeast starter for brews this high in gravity (a little late now obviously). In your situation, I would consider pitching another packet of yeast (see the link below on how to properly pitch more yeast) if the FG is supposed to be substantially lower than 1.038 (1.01#).  For the purpose of homebrewing, it's generally safer to overpitch yeast than to underpitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the possibility of underpitching, did you aerate the wort before pitching your yeast and letting it ferment?  If there isn't enough oxygen in the wort, it will limit the yeast's ability to reproduce, therefor not fermenting fully.  Something that high in gravity definitely demands a lot of aeration, more so than what a gravity reading of half that would require.  If you did not properly aerate the wort, then pitching more yeast will not help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as bottling goes, unfortunately I'm uncertain as to whether or not the yeast will wake up after being racked to bottles, and continue to ferment the remaining sugars.  If it is a matter of underpitching, I would imagine this could be a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a good write-up on how to handle what people call a &quot;stuck fermentation&quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=89541&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=89541&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-06-04T19:57:34.133" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T19:57:34.133" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10080" CreationDate="2013-06-04T23:11:09.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp650-brettanomyces-bruxellensis?s=homebrew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;White Labs' site&lt;/a&gt;, they say WLP650 was intended for secondary fermentation, but it would appear that if you use a yeast starter, you may be alright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: I am planning a sour brown ale with bret bruxellensis as the only yeast. Is there anything special I should do with this strain and is this a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. We don't recommend the vials for primary (not enough cells), but if you make a decent starter, it should be fine. You should plan on 3-5 days to grow up the starter, at least room temperature (but warmer is better) and aerate as usual. You are probably going to have to make twice as much of a starter as you normally would for Saccharomyces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T23:11:09.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10094" CreationDate="2013-06-05T01:51:36.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use opaque trash bags. Check for opacity then find the size that loosely slides over your carboys.  I've daylight streaming into my brewing area and unusually long primary fermentations, yet no skunk aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3510" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-06-05T14:43:55.297" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T14:43:55.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10120" CreationDate="2013-06-05T07:38:16.360" Score="1" ViewCount="1305" Body="&lt;p&gt;So by old I'm talking maybe ten years! I was cleaning and found quite a bit of LME gifted to me with all my original homebrew equipment. I was mid-swing into the trash can when I wondered if maybe I could use this old stuff for yeast starters? A good boil should clean up any nasties in there right? It's been sealed in a plastic screw-top jar that was taped and some in a can. It sure would be a penny saver if I could use it, what do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T11:04:12.900" Title="Old malt extract (liquid) for a yeast starter" Tags="|yeast-starters|lme|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10118" CreationDate="2013-06-05T09:44:52.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing some searching around, LME can go bad, but I don't know how much it would effect your beer if it's just a yeast starter.  You apparently get what people have dubbed &quot;Extract Twang&quot; if the LME is shelved for too long, as well as the color of the extract darkens, but I'd imagine a yeast starter is insignificant enough in quantity that you probably don't have to worry much.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to choose between the two, I'd say the canned is probably your best bet, as it sounds as though the plastic jar may be permeable to oxygen, therefor making it the least preserved over time between the two.  I'd say use up the canned LME in your starters before using the plastic container, and if you don't notice any off smell/flavors with the canned starter/beer, you probably won't notice any issues with the plastic jar.  That is of course, assuming the plastic jar isn't being re-opened and rotting from previous exposure to the elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just bear in mind, I assume you won't use all of the extract in one starter, as soon as you open it, you're already at a disadvantage, so make sure the remaining extract is refrigerated, and used before very long after opening the old can/jar.  While I'm guessing at this, I wouldn't hold onto it for more than 2 months after opening it, and even that seems to be a bit long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referencing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2883/liquid-malt-extract-storage&quot;&gt;Liquid malt extract storage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f37/can-liquid-malt-extract-go-rancid-86954/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Can liquid malt extract go rancid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T09:44:52.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10118" CreationDate="2013-06-05T11:04:12.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, dilute it, boil it to get about 1.040 SG and use it in the starter. All of the sugar content is still there. It may have staled and developed soapy compounds but the yeast don't care about those - they just want the sugar! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After making the starter, put it in the fridge to flocculate the yeast and pour off the liquid so none of it makes it into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to canning equipment, can the rest so that it's ready for starters for subsequent brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T11:04:12.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10122" CreationDate="2013-06-05T11:39:45.877" Score="4" ViewCount="3700" Body="&lt;p&gt;In making the assumption that given the final gravity and physical weight of beer (or any liquid for that matter), that you can find the total quantity, what is the calculation necessary for determining the total quantity of beer in either pounds or kilograms when the gravity of the beer is known within 2 gravity points gravity accuracy (determined by a hydrometer) and one pound weight accuracy (using a digital scale)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what impact will CO2 from carbonation have on this calculation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-06-05T11:49:51.400" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T11:08:35.890" Title="Determining beer quantity when FG and weight are known" Tags="|calculations|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10121" CreationDate="2013-06-05T13:22:17.893" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you know the gravity and physical weight of the beer, then you can work out the quantity (volume) like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;V = W / SG&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;V is the volume in liters&#xA;W is the weight of the beer in kilos&#xA;SG is the specific gravity, e.g. 1.040&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this to be accurate, you have to be weighing just beer - the trub and yeast should not be present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US Gallon = 3785ml&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imperial Gallon = 4546ml&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To convert to US gallons volume and pounds weight, the formula is almost the same:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(lb in grams)/(UsGal in ml) =&amp;gt; scaling facator&#xA;&#xA;454 / 3785 =&amp;gt; 0.11995 =&amp;gt; 0.12 (2 d.p.)&#xA;&#xA;V(USgal) = (0.12) * W(lb) / SG&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Accuracy&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;With a SG of +/- 0.002 and a weight +/- 1lb, the resulting accuracy is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;= 0.12 * 1 / 1.002&#xA;= +/- 0.12 USgallons&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Effects of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effects of dissolved CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is to increase the weight of the beer by the weight of the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; without increasing the beer volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is completely dissolved it adds to the SG of the beer. You don't need to worry about this, since it also adds to the total weight, hence the volume calculation is still correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if measuring with a hydrometer, you may need to be mindful of the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; bubbles, which can affect the reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take a SG reading with CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, and then again without, you can see how much the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; weighs, and compare this with predicted results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peacesoftware.de/einigewerte/calc_co2.php5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;density&lt;/a&gt; of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is 1.82 kg/m&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; @ 18.3&amp;deg;C/65&amp;deg;F. The density of water is 1000kg/m&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. The SG of 1 volume of dissolved CO2 is then&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;SG_1_vol_CO2 = 1.82/1000&#xA;             = 0.0018 SG&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for the typical beer, 2.4 volumes of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; adds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;= 1.82 * 2.4 / 1000&#xA;= 0.004 SG&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, we would expect the beer with 2.4 volumes of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; to have a SG that is 0.004 larger than the degassed beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use this to compare gassed and degassed beer samples to confirm if the hydrometer is affected by the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; bubbles or not. A refractometer is not affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-01-24T11:08:35.890" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T11:08:35.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10121" CreationDate="2013-06-05T13:27:01.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious to know why you would need to work backwards to the volume. Having said that, and from my rudimentary mathematics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;weight/(FG x 1000) = m3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, multiplying by 1000 to give litres would cancel the 1000 divisor to leave:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;weight/FG = litres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: You have beer weighing 55kg and its FG is 1.005.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;55/(1.005 x 1000) = 55/1005 = 0.054m3 or &#xA;55/1.005 = 54 litres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the CO2, would this not be so negligable that one could ignore it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T13:27:01.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-05T21:21:57.980" Score="7" ViewCount="2338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was hoping to put together an information system that could measure the temperature of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9788/would-placing-the-fermenter-tank-in-a-tub-of-water-be-a-good-way-to-handle-hot-e&quot;&gt;water in a bucket where I place my fermenting-bucket&lt;/a&gt; and notify my smart phone when I need to replace the frozen water bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an old Android phone. I know Java and can learn to program Android relatively easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am missing is the networked thermometer that can measure liquids. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.igrillinc.com/about.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iGrill&lt;/a&gt; could potentially work; however, in the FAQ section it states that it cannot measure liquids. A potential work around would simply be to encase the temperature probe in a water proof enclosure and submerge it in the water of the swamp cooler, but I would rather work with something that could measure the water directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of such technology?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T04:28:04.010" Title="Networked/Connected Thermometer for Measuring Water in Swamp Cooler" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|temperature-control|temperature-probe|swamp-cooler|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10124" CreationDate="2013-06-05T21:39:34.803" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewpi.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brewpi&lt;/a&gt; - it's a fermentation monitor, but isn't limited to just fermentation. The temperature devices used are DS18B20 temperature probes. You can get these pre-made in waterproof housing from sellers on ebay - the project also has a shop that sells them. The manufacturers claim they are accurate to +/- 0.5 C, although my tests against a calibrated thermometer show in practice they are accurate to +/- 0.1C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKR6x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the BrewPi project mainly touts the raspberry pi as the main wireless device, you can collect the results over any serial interface, such as a spare PC, or a linux-capable router. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The project logs data into pretty graphs so you can see the temperature now, or review later for  any unexpected swings. I know the code well - it would be possible to alter the code to send a message when the temperature rises above a pre-set value. You'd then code a java app on your android phone to handle this message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I didn't mention, these probes are digital - they communicate temperature using a digital protocol called OneWire. The advantage is that you can connect multiple sensors to the same 3 power/data lines, and they produce much less noise over long cables compared to analog sensors like the LM37. The disadvantage is that you need to implement the OneWire protocol - e.g. use a OneWire library. This is the approach taken with the Arduino in brewpi, which has a ready available OneWire library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a fan, the brewpi can control the fan to increase the rate of cooling when necessary. The controller uses a predictive algorithm, which avoids overshooting, and is much more accurate compared to a simple on/off thermostat algorithm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-06-07T15:08:54.150" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T15:08:54.150" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10124" CreationDate="2013-06-05T21:46:30.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm actually in the exact same boat.  Well.. Similar.  Wasn't going to bother with the smartphone, but will have some form of communication.  Here's what I have in mind &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0054U4YKI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I just ordered a USB Thermometer off Amazon&lt;/a&gt; that people have managed to &lt;a href=&quot;http://bitplane.net/2012/01/temper1-ubuntu/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;get working in linux&lt;/a&gt; (specifically Ubuntu, but it sounds like it is agnostic to distros).  From here I could whip up a real simple web app that communicates with a database I house locally (either MySQL or MongoDB, depending on whether I go a LAMP stack or with Node + Express).  From there, take periodic recordings of the swamp cooler, and push out some form of communication.  I'd like to get it working on Raspberry Pi, which while my knowledge of it is limited, I've heard that some people have used Google Talk with it for notifications, in which case that's handled.  Just something to chew on.  I'm excited for the delivery so I can get cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: The same crazy dude in the second link above is also a homebrewer (same reason for using the thermometer), and even went as far as to use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bitplane.net/2012/02/airlock-mic-project/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;USB microphone to measure the airlock's bubbling to determine the length of fermentation.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T21:46:30.623" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10107" CreationDate="2013-06-06T08:02:45.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with others; I think your fluctuating temperature is the likely cause. I have never tried the swamp method but I am about to convert a refrigerator into a fermentation chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a temperature control unit I picked up on ebay from someone in Hong Kong - the unit name escapes me at the moment. I am going to by-pass the thermostat on the fridge and hook up the temperature control to activate the compressor when too warm and a low wattage light bulb, that I will fix to the bottom of the fridge, when too cool to provide heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hoping to source a second-hand fridge this week, so I might be able to get started on this at the weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you Google 'fridge fermentation chamber' you can find quite a few links to blogs and forums on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I dug out the controller details. Here is a link to Amazon's US page, just for info. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00862G3TQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;All-purpose Temperature Controller STC-1000 With sensor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastEditorUserId="1088" LastEditDate="2013-06-06T10:56:18.720" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T10:56:18.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9792" CreationDate="2013-06-06T15:12:02.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 11 ball lock kegs and have tried many things (notepad file with corresponding numbered kegs, etc)  but eventually settled on good old-fashioned duct tape stuck to the side of the plastic top piece of each keg. 1 piece of duct tape says what beer is in the keg and another gets a little line added each time it is filled with a new beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the line count is odd I take all the pieces off, soak them in PBW if needed, inspect the o-rings, and clean all the little pieces more thoroughly. If its even numbered I just make sure it is clean to the eye and sanitize it. When 1 o-ring is bad I replace them all and restart the numbering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right when any keg runs out of beer I open and rinse it out with water then store it upside down with the lid off. This makes the more thorough cleaning, before filling, very quick and simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could rotate in an acid cleaner every X number of times if you really want to, although I have found no need to do so yet. This would be different if you were using sanke kegs since you can not clean them with a brush, or you are using some sort of cleaning setup and never even open them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as how long the beer has been in the keg, that is tracked on the brewing software I use. I do not track which keg it was placed into on that software, just that it was kegged on a specific date. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could see this method working for any number of kegs as long as the kegs never leave the house. If I were distributing the kegs I would probably switch to an excel file (until I got over a couple hundred) and permanently mark each keg with a number, because the extra wear and tear would probably remove the duct tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T15:12:02.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10124" CreationDate="2013-06-07T14:06:10.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are into brewing (daa) and want to get your hands dirty(er) (into programming and electronics) you migth check &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11395&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;the electric imp&quot;&lt;/a&gt; a relative simple and small datalogging device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dlnmh9ip6v2uc.cloudfront.net/images/products/1/1/3/9/5/11395-05_medium.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Is that small&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's well documented, user friendly, web avaliable and It also connects to your home wifi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-wireless-temperature-sensor-updating-web-si/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a full instructable&lt;/a&gt; implementing a temperature web sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total cost: arround 50$ plus shippings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sparkfun.com/search/results?term=electric%20imp&amp;amp;what=products&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;electric imp&lt;/a&gt; 30$&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sparkfun.com/search/results?term=electric%20imp&amp;amp;what=products&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;electric imp board&lt;/a&gt; 13$&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=breadboard%20-wire&amp;amp;_sop=15&amp;amp;_osacat=0&amp;amp;_from=R40&amp;amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&amp;amp;_nkw=breadboard%20-wire%20-header&amp;amp;_sacat=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;breadboard&lt;/a&gt; 5$&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;breadboard wire 0$ :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermistor (check &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sparkfun.com/products/250&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; 10K) 2$&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 20K resistor 0$&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&amp;amp;field-keywords=phone%20charger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A phone charger&lt;/a&gt; (to power the imp)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you find this usefull!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I'm sure you could replace the NTC thermistor with other sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3463" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T14:06:10.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10139" CreationDate="2013-06-07T16:35:14.223" Score="3" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to modify this tank with a valve/pressure controler so I can use it to carbonate drinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images of the tank included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would order online but i have no specification to get data from. What kind of store would sell valves like this? Hardware store, Plumbing store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The supplier did not have any additional equipment for these tanks. Their main bussiness were large 50l propane tanks with different valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks and sorry if my question is out of place here. I use stackoverflow a lot and just wanted to try my luck in some other of their sites (stackexchange guitar site helped me a lot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In perfect case someone could link some online valve that would fit similar tanks so I have something to reference to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZgWav.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZgWav.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Ib3V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Ib3V.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UXcqB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UXcqB.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xcenA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xcenA.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3515" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-06-07T16:49:20.413" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T23:50:26.387" Title="I bought a small 1 liter CO2 gas tank for carbonating drinks, where could I start to find a regulator valve for this tank?" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10130" CreationDate="2013-06-07T17:16:50.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go to your local welding shop, or where ever you can go to get the tank filled.  They'd probably be most likely to help you find the parts you need, and on top of that, they should be able to fill it for you too.  If you don't know where one is, but have a local homebrew store, they can likely tell you where they go for their keg setups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T17:16:50.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2637" CreationDate="2013-06-07T18:36:34.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shake it up, but only after the aggressive fermentation period is over with. This will typically be 4-7 days in the primary. Only shake in the primary! You risk oxidation at any other point. The oxygen has already been forced out of the carboy, shaking can in fact liven the yeast and make nutrients that settled into odd areas once again available to them. I recommend shaking during week 2 and beyond. Obviously if you are near bottling time, you want to leave amply time for settling (minimum 3 days).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am an avid from-scratch brewer and base the above off of both my own and other's experience, in addition to a little common sense applied to the science behind the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3516" LastEditorUserId="1561" LastEditDate="2013-06-10T21:50:28.797" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T21:50:28.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10138" CreationDate="2013-06-08T01:14:01.100" Score="10" ViewCount="5886" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the rate that I'm going, I'm doing a homebrew roughly every second weekend.  (Fun!)  I will end up with a small stock of hops, and yeast I can keep around in the fridge for a while if I buy a few extra vials, but I'm wondering about milled grains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the space or inclination to mill myself.  If I want to pick up 5-10 pounds of base grains and a small stock of specialty grains, and have them milled by my LHBS at time of purchase, how long can I expect them to stay fresh in a bugproof container in a cool, dark, dry corner of a closet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/73/how-should-bulk-grain-be-stored&quot;&gt;grain storage&lt;/a&gt;, but the asker's express intent is to take it to his LHBS and mill on brewday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does milled grain have a shorter shelf-life than unmilled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T15:54:16.733" Title="How long can milled grain be stored?" Tags="|storage|grain|mill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10135" CreationDate="2013-06-08T01:40:25.590" Score="3" ViewCount="1777" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been three weeks, and my impatience has had me crack one bottle on days 7, 14, and now 20.  There's no carbonation in these bottles, and it doesn't appear to be getting any better over the weeks.  I pop the top and if I'm not paying attention, I won't hear the escape of CO2/O2 come out, it's that faint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, should I continue to let them sit in bottles?  After a few more weeks, if they don't carbonate, what are my options?  Is it even worth the effort to go through and figure out how to siphon them out and back in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add a bit more context to the situation: After I racked it off primary and into secondary for a month, I had just started to wash yeast, and was curious if I could wash the yeast that came off secondary fermentation and bottling.  So after taking the beer out of secondary and into bottles, I harvested the yeast in the carboy.  Yes, I am no aware that harvesting yeast out of secondary is not nearly as good as harvesting off primary, but at the time I didn't.  Before that realization occurred, I had actually pitched one of the yeasts into a batch of beer after giving it a good shot at success with a starter.  That harvested yeast did not ferment, and I had to pitch other yeast instead.  Not sure how much context that adds as to the health of the yeast in suspension in the bottles, but I figured I'd mention it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TLDR: The yeast harvested off the beer from secondary fermentation did not ferment another batch of beer made after harvesting, despite using a yeast starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-06-08T01:47:13.223" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T02:49:29.307" Title="bottles not fermented after 3 weeks of conditioning. Good or bad?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10134" CreationDate="2013-06-08T02:13:53.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the beer has not fermented in the 3 weeks since bottling, it's not likely to kick off any time soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the beer is not excessively high in alcohol, you should add more yeast to the bottles to initiate fermentation. Get yourself a packet of dry yeast (check the manufacture date or expiry date to be sure it's fresh yeast). Uncap the bottles and add a couple grain to each bottle. Then recap. Check after a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;Since the beer is pushing 10% ABV, it's not surprising that the yeast are non-viable. You can still follow this advice, but use Champagne yeast, not beer yeast, as it's more alcohol tolerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE 2:&#xA;WLP002 is described by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp002-english-ale-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs&lt;/a&gt; as having &quot;medium&quot; alcohol tolerance, which could be taken to mean &quot;around 10%&quot;. The attenuation of your beer is only 65% (110-38/110), which is low for that strain. I'm suspicious that the yeast were knocked out by the alcohol before they finished fermenting all the available sugars. If you add a yeast with high alcohol tolerance to the bottles, you may end up with bottle bombs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a tricky situation. You might try &lt;strong&gt;carefully&lt;/strong&gt; decanting the bottles into a fermenter and adding Champagne yeast. Let it ferment until finished, then bottle with priming sugar. You take the risk of oxidizing the beer, but I can't think of any other safe way of getting carbonated beer in the bottles. Or, just drink the beer flat and tell people, &quot;that's how they do it in England.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, pick a yeast strain with high alcohol tolerance when fermenting a huge beast like your imperial stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-06-08T02:49:29.307" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T02:49:29.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10137" CreationDate="2013-06-08T05:32:54.173" Score="3" ViewCount="6345" Body="&lt;p&gt;How prominent might I expect the flavors of honey to be, if used as a priming element for beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about it in terms of an all-grain pale ale variation, perhaps with honey or biscuit malt for the flavoring element, instead of crystal...  And let's also presume some quality honey, not the supermarket mass-produced stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T10:03:00.597" Title="Effect of priming with honey" Tags="|priming|priming-sugar|honey|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10136" CreationDate="2013-06-08T15:32:23.710" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience and priming experiments I've done, honey adds no flavor when used as priming.  You only add a tiny bit and it ferments out leaving no flavor behind.  In addition, since the fermentability is variable, you don't really know what your carbonation level will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2021-07-16T14:17:36.090" LastActivityDate="2021-07-16T14:17:36.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10133" CreationDate="2013-06-08T15:54:16.733" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Milled grain does have a shorter shelf-life, but you don't need to worry about it unless you are trying to mill more than a month in advance. I used to get my grain milled and shipped to me and I would use it when I got around to doing a brew. I never noticed major taste differences within about a month of being milled, and I was just using cardboard boxes and plastic supermarket bags. Much more than a month and I generally went for a higher hop content as opposed to trying to store the grain better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to worry about moisture. The more moisture that surrounds your malt (no matter what state milled or not), the more the flavours and aromas fade. You also run the risk of growing moulds. Generally moulds like temperatures between 40 and 70 F and high humidities. In terms of buildings and mould, the EPA recommends reducing humidities to below 60% and the CDC recommends humidities no higher than 50%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, if you can keep your grain cold and dry, then you should be able to keep milled grain for a few months without noticing major changes in taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3514" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T15:54:16.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10130" CreationDate="2013-06-08T18:43:00.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the tank to Riga kinda grey/black market for useless parts and weird equipment (unofficial marketplace, created after the soviet union collapsed and somehow still exists). I found a specialist there on gas tank equipment and apparently I had bought a specific tank for refilling sodastream like devices with a different name in Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His solution was to change the valve. But he was concerned that below it there would need to be a special screw like pin (I'm not using the right english terminology here). Anyways it was clear that an adapter like that doesnt exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I emptied the tank manually, using a small screw driven into a large wooden table (outdoors). And then removed the built in valve. Under it is a standard thread. So now I just have to buy the standard valve to replace the one I removed (a few bucks) the regulator (also a few bucks), and the bottle holder. So a pretty cheap solution. Also gotta refill the tank, but there are many services for that available and my quantities are negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for long post and bad english/wrong terminology. I just wanted to post this so if someone comes across this problem his solution is to simply empty the tank and remove the valve and then change it. The 1l tanks (from sodastram like devices) top valve part is unique and is the problem but the built in hidden part is completely standard. If you know the right place to buy these parts it will cost you nothing, just have to empty manually and then replace the details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3515" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-06-08T23:50:26.387" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T23:50:26.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10136" CreationDate="2013-06-08T23:48:08.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why use honey when table sugar is actually a better substitute and more readily available? Yes you can use honey, but measuring it out and adding it to each bottle or en masse to the bottling bucket will be tricky, especially ensuring the honey is evenly mixed in the bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people recommend using DME to prime, and while this may be the ideal on the theoretical level, the amount of flavor coming from the priming sugar is typically at most 3-4% of the total grist in the brew (assuming 5kg/10lb grist.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some also argue that the table sugar requires different metabolic pathways to break it down compared to using DME which uses the same pathways as already set up to ferment the beer. Again, this is true, but in practice the yeast have no trouble switching and fermenting out the table sugar in a few days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T23:48:08.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-09T20:30:22.173" Score="1" ViewCount="2420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to try brewing a beer infused with Red Pepper. My original idea was to infuse it with Tabasco sauce but have read about it going wrong or having a vinegar taste. Being from Louisiana I feel this would be a fun little beer to pull out at parties for my friends to try. Can anyone offer some suggestions as I've never tried to make an infused beer before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3525" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T22:55:45.843" Title="How do you add Red Pepper to beer?" Tags="|beer|ingredients|first-time-brewer|brewing|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10146" CreationDate="2013-06-09T20:54:39.990" Score="1" ViewCount="1239" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I did my first yeast starter. I purchased the 2000mL flask and DME from northernbrewer, and it came with instructions for doing both 1000mL and 2000mL batches. It suggests 1000mL for 5 gallons of wort with OG of up to 1.080. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 1000mL, it says to put in 650mL of water and 1/2 cup DME. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 2000mL, it says to put in 1300mL of water and 1 cup of DME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I meant to do a 1000mL starter but ended up putting a full cup in, so I added enough water to equate 1300mL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did have a boil over (!) which will disrupt this question, but I thought it was relatively small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My final liquid wort volume was 800-850mL. After pitching in the liquid yeast, the final amount rose to 1000mL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my &quot;2000mL&quot; starter is now half the volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is impossible that the boil over I had took out one half the volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I did a strong boil which most definitely added to the loss from the evaporation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Does it matter at all if a 2000mL starter ended up as 1000mL of liquid? As long as I have the full cup of DME, the total volume shouldn't matter, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If not, Is it best to do a very light boil instead of a rigorous boil, so that the final amount of liquid will be closer to the amount you started with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2013-06-09T21:16:03.613" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T02:20:25.237" Title="Total Volume of Yeast Starter in Regards to Evaporation from Boiling Wort" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|dme|stir-plate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-09T21:19:35.253" Score="1" ViewCount="1027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read online that the size of the vortex in a yeast starter does not matter. Why is this true? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was experimenting with water yesterday, I created a monster vortex (very cool) and could see air bubbles screaming all over the water; turning the vortex down into a baby vortex resulted in no air bubbles screaming all over. Some people say that the point of the vortex is just to keep the yeast in suspension which will make contact with the air in the vortex. Others say you need a monster vortex so that the air bubbles can scream through the solvent and aerate the wort. Which is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you simply stir your 5 gallons of wort, it will not aerate much at all. The reason you splash it is to introduce oxygen bubbles into the wort, which aerates it better. Given that everyone agrees on this, why would a small vortex with no screaming air bubbles be able to aerate the yeast starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Well I figured if the point of the vortex was to aerate the yeast-starter, why not use my aeration-stone and oxygen tank? So I hung the stone in for 60 seconds which created a lot of foam, but the stir plate got rid of the foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It made me think: now that my yeast starter is aerated, why should I care about the size of the vortex (given the assumption that the greater the vortex, the greater the aeration)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why care about the vortex at all (given the assumption that vortex size has nothing to do with aeration) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2013-06-09T23:10:58.447" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T01:42:35.910" Title="Yeast Starter Vortex Size" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|aeration|stir-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10141" CreationDate="2013-06-09T21:24:31.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You tagged with first-time-brewer... if this is true, I would caution against making an infused beer right out the gate.  Fancy beers can be a tricky proposition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, my best guess is that you could do an infusion similar to using vanilla, since it seems like a similar plant.  See this question &amp;amp; answers about &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7916/vanilla-beans-in-a-porter&quot;&gt;vanilla&lt;/a&gt;.  There's some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/chili-pepper-beer-333353/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;discussion&lt;/a&gt; about making chili beers in the ever-popular HomeBrewTalk forum as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I don't mean to discourage you with that first bit.  I've had some chili beers that were &lt;em&gt;amazing&lt;/em&gt;, and it's a pretty neat style.  Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T21:24:31.253" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10142" CreationDate="2013-06-09T22:14:54.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It matters a little bit. The advice I've seen is that a wort of around 1.040 is best for a yeast starter, presumably because that's the optimal level of fermentables for yeast propagation. 1/2 cup of DME in 500ml of water yields a gravity around 1.040. So the wort from 1 cup in 800ml will have a higher gravity -- somewhere around 1.065. The yeast will not propagate as effectively, and consequently your final cell count will be lower than if you'd used a 1.040 wort.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You're only boiling to sterilize the wort. 10 minutes at a low boil is more than enough. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those instructions for preparing the starter wort seem strange to me. How could 1/2 cup of DME and 650ml of water produce a 1000ml starter? 1/2 cup is ~125ml, and less than that when it's in solution (Chem 12 was a long time ago, so I don't know the actual resulting volume). Palmer's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How To Brew&lt;/a&gt; recommends 1/2 cup of DME in 1 pint (~500ml) of water. I'm guessing that when the instructions talk about a 1000ml starter, they mean &quot;a starter than can be made in a 1000ml flask.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T22:14:54.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10142" CreationDate="2013-06-09T22:15:33.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two key variables in a yeast starter - the volume of wort and the gravity of the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The volume principally determines how many cells you get out of the starter. The gravity also has some affect, but most texts recommend a gravity in the range 1.030-1.040. This is to avoid too high stresses on the yeast, and also because oxygen dissolves more readily in a lower gravity wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you reduced your starter from 2000ml concentration to closer to 1000ml, ignoring the small boilover, you probably almost doubled the gravity of the wort, from 1.040 to 1.080, which is much higher than the recommended 1.030-1.040. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/pitching.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr Malty&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When making starter wort, make sure you keep the OG around 1.030 to&#xA;  1.040. You do not want to make a high gravity starter to grow yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think anything bad will happen, but you may not get as many yeast cells as expected. Still, go ahead and pitch the starter when done, you'll still have more cells than when you started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;If you have two flasks, you can split the starter in two and top up each&lt;/strike&gt; You can top up to the indended volume with sterile (e.g. boiled then cooled) water. This will bring the gravity inline with what's recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Brewkaiser has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/blog/blog/2013/05/28/starter-wort-gravity-and-yeast-growth/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;experiment&lt;/a&gt; comparing yeast cell count and viability for different starter worts. The 20P (1.080) wort had ca 1/3 less growth compared to the other lower gravity worts and ca 10% less viability (90% vs 100% for the others.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-06-10T02:20:25.237" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T02:20:25.237" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10151" CreationDate="2013-06-10T01:32:45.783" Score="11" ViewCount="45471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking for flaked wheat at my LHBS and they were out. My recipe called for roughly equal amounts of wheat malt and flaked wheat. The LHBS guy told me to use white wheat malt as a substitute. He said it might not be exactly the same but would provide flavor variety versus just using all wheat malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the difference between the wheat grains? I don't care if the flavor is a little different as long as it's not going to mess up my mash or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T19:56:07.337" Title="&quot;White wheat&quot; vs &quot;wheat malt&quot; vs &quot;flaked wheat&quot;?" Tags="|all-grain|wheat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10143" CreationDate="2013-06-10T01:42:35.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/blog/blog/2013/03/25/stir-speed-and-yeast-growth/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://braukaiser.com/blog/blog/2013/03/25/stir-speed-and-yeast-growth/&lt;/a&gt; and the first link it contains address these points exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T01:42:35.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10147" CreationDate="2013-06-10T13:19:14.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;White wheat and flaked wheat are both adjuncts and should be used in conjunction with a base malt (like wheat malt). From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;John Palmer's book on the former two adjuncts&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unmalted wheat is a common ingredient in wheat beers, including: American Wheat, Bavarian Weisse, and is essential to Belgian Lambic and Wit. It adds starch haze and high levels of protein. Flaked wheat adds more wheat flavor &quot;sharpness&quot; than malted wheat. Use 0.5-2 lb. per 5 gal batch. Must be mashed with base malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;same book&lt;/a&gt; on wheat malt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wheat has been used for brewing beer nearly as long as barley and has equal diastatic power. Malted wheat is used for 5-70% of the mash depending on the style. Wheat has no outer husk and therefore has fewer tannins than barley. It is generally smaller than barley and contributes more protein to the beer, aiding in head retention. But it is much stickier than barley due to the higher protein content and may cause lautering problems if not given a &quot;Protein Rest&quot; during the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;  As per Denny's comment, unmalted wheat like flaked wheat (and torrified wheat, among others) require a base malt in order to convert the proteins and starches in the wheat to fermentable sugars.  If you ferment only with unmalted wheats, you will simply end up with a wheatmeal sticky mess that won't lauter very well, and won't have any sugars for fermentation.  By adding a base malt rich with enzymes (as most are), those enzymes will help break down the wheat into fermentable sugars.  This is what diastatic power is, the grain's ability to break down it's starches into fermentable sugars during mashing.  Since unmalted wheat has no diastatic power, yet it does have fermentable potential, it has to rely on another (base) grain's diastatic power to hold the unmalted wheat's hand as they cross the road to fermentable-wort-street (so to speak).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T19:56:07.337" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T19:56:07.337" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10141" CreationDate="2013-06-10T13:53:09.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/8209/1574&quot;&gt;asked a while back on adding peppers&lt;/a&gt; and was given a link to an excellent article on adding chillies to beer.  I went with the dry hopping technique, and used chipotle peppers instead of the original plan of jalapenos or habaneros because I wanted the smokey flavor and I was not at all disappointed by the outcome.  In fact, I loved it.  I want to do it again with a smoked porter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd highly recommend getting fresh peppers of your choosing in case you were contemplating getting flaked red peppers from your store's spice aisle.  Reason for that recommendation is because I assume you know your peppers coming from the Louisiana, so you know exactly what you want as far as flavor, seeds vs no seeds, etc.  Plus, it's just cooler to roll your own pepper combo instead of some generic pre-done McCormicks bottle of red peppers.  Be creative and get a mix of peppers if you want a nice zinger of a beer.  Rinse them, chop them up, add them to a small glass of vodka (just enough to cover them, not too much) for a night to help kill off any gunk that might still be on them, and throw them in after fermentation has completed (very important to wait for primary fermentation to complete) in a cheese-cloth-like bag that you'd use for dry hopping.  Also, toss in the vodka left behind too, it'll have a lot of the spice in it.  Leave them in for a week or two depending on how much of a punch you want to pack, then take the bag out and bottle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea for you that just came to mind.  Since I've already done the chipotle pepper dry hop, next time I may kick things up a notch and even toss in half a teaspoon of cajun spice into the vodka for extra flavor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T13:53:09.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10147" CreationDate="2013-06-10T15:58:40.920" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flaked wheat is raw wheat - it's not been malted. This means that the enzymes that would normally help convert the starches to sugars have not even been created yet, since this is one affect of malting.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Normal&quot; wheat is also called &quot;red&quot; wheat, due to the slight reddish hue it has. The grain is malted, and so has the ability to convert it's own starches in a mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White wheat, also malted, is a different variety of wheat that doesn't have the the genes that cause the red color. It typically has more proteins than red wheat, and also a slightly higher extract yield. So, it's often used in wheat beers where more haze from protein is desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All wheats will gum up a mash and make lautering harder if used in large quantities (&gt;40%). Then rice hulls are recommended. 1lb/0.5kg per 5 gallon/20l batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-06-10T22:29:12.663" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T22:29:12.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10154" CreationDate="2013-06-10T22:51:56.433" Score="2" ViewCount="1314" Body="&lt;p&gt;So 24 hours ago I made my first yeast starter, ever. I built a homemade stir plate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I was feeling like a boss because of this and simply dumped the 2L flask into the 5gallon wort I spent all morning making. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;PLOP&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OH NO MY STIR BAR IS NOW INSIDE OF MY WORT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I probably should have jumped on stackexchange to see whether or not I could just leave it in there for the primary fermentation, but I jumped in the shower again and scrubbed my right arm with tons of soap with very hot water, jumped out of the shower and plunged my arm into the bucket in search of the stir bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found it, like a boss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) So did I just destroy my batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If I am noob enough to drop the stir bar into the 5-gallon container again, should I just let it sit for a week and recover it after primary fermentation, or should I get it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) How big of a noob am I for a) losing the stir bar in the wort and b) reaching in their with my hand after pitching yeast ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T19:28:00.310" Title="How big of a Noob am I? Or, What to Do when You spill a stir-bar in your 5-gallon bucket" Tags="|sanitation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10152" CreationDate="2013-06-10T23:07:54.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using a conical flask, practice with a flask of water and a stir bar. You'll find the right pouring technique (moderate flow) that keeps the stirbar in the conical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've plunged my arm in to loosen hops in a kettle full of cooled wort, and I didn't shower first. :) The beer was fine. You're pitching a healthy starter so any contaminants will have to work hard to get a foothold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving the stir bar in wouldn't have done any harm - it was after all sterile. Next time, just leave it in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T23:07:54.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10152" CreationDate="2013-06-10T23:40:48.793" Score="10" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most likely not. But only time will tell. Obviously not sticking your arm in you beer is preferable to not doing that. But relax and have a homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can absolutely leave it in there because it is covered with the same yeast that you are brewing with and therefore is not going to add anything beyond the yeasties you want in there. However, say you want to use it to make a new starter:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;How do I get a stir bar out of a fermenter?&lt;/strong&gt; - This is so easy you are going to smack your palm to your forehead so watch out. Get a magnet from your fridge or another handy magnet (in the lab I use other stirbars). Then use the magnetic force to attach the two magnets and slide it out of the bucket or carboy. Importantly, you don't have to stick anything into the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Every time you brew you will find a new way to call yourself a noob. If you don't then you aren't having any fun. Part of the brewing experience is learning and I always enjoy the challenges that come along. That is why I love answering and posting questions on this site. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T23:40:48.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10156" CreationDate="2013-06-11T14:17:17.433" Score="5" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the beer that I brewed this past weekend, I finally remembered to take an Original Gravity reading.  Unlike my previous last three attempts, I actually had a little more than my target 1 gallon, so I poured a little into the hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the wort was somewhat sediment &amp;amp; trub heavy at that point.  Not to the point that the hydrometer was bottomed out, though.  But a small layer settled down, and there was some floating stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this effect the reading?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5266/lots-of-trub-affecting-specific-gravity-readings&quot;&gt;question and answer&lt;/a&gt; about taking a reading, but there didn't seem to be a conclusive answer.  Perhaps, looking back, I should have allowed the floating stuff to settle, or swirled the tube to help it settle.  However, my instinct is to say that unless the hydrometer is sitting on sediment, then the reading will be the same, since the hydrometer works on buoyancy.  (I will float the same amount in ocean water, whether it's at the beach or over the Mariana Trench.)  Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T15:37:45.020" Title="How might trub effect taking original gravity?" Tags="|original-gravity|hydrometer|trub|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10155" CreationDate="2013-06-11T15:37:45.020" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are absolutely correct.  Unless something is dissolved into the liquid, or there's so much trub that the hydrometer is sitting on top of it, the reading will be unaffected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T15:37:45.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10031" CreationDate="2013-06-12T16:55:03.520" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to stop carbonation, you can pasteurize the bottles.  To do this, use a pot of 170 degree water and immerse bottles.  Let temp get to 170 again, and let sit for 15 minutes.  Not sure how this will impact the taste of the beer, but I've done this for cider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T16:55:03.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10152" CreationDate="2013-06-12T19:28:00.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is actually fairly common, and doesn't confer any n00b points whatsoever.  Your response was solid, but I've heard from more than a couple people that they just stuck their arm or a long spoon in immediately (no sanitization) to retrieve the sunglasses/pen/whatever and their brew turned out just fine.  I'm with you, I would have at least stuck my arm in my sanitizing bucket before I reached in, but it's nice to know that you aren't automatically condemned to dump if you react before you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T19:28:00.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-14T18:49:44.793" Score="1" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between mashing and steeping grains in terms of preparation style or is &quot;mashing&quot; and &quot;steeping&quot; just word semantics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T01:26:54.030" Title="What are the differences between mashing and steeping grains in preparation" Tags="|equipment|recipe|steeping|mashing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10160" CreationDate="2013-06-14T19:04:23.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Yes, it's semantics: the words have different meanings. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mashing is the enzymatic conversion of starch to sugar, using alpha- and beta-amylaze naturally present in grain at the specific temperatures to activate them (~150°F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steeping is using hot water to extract flavor and color compounds from grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T19:04:23.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10160" CreationDate="2013-06-14T19:04:59.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The end result is the same, but mashing implies that enzymes are converting starches into sugars. These enzymes work when held around 150°F. The two enzymes are alpha and beta amylase. Alpha works more at higher temperatures (optimal at 158°F) and cuts starches randomly into long chain sugars (only some of which are fermentable). Beta works at lower temperatures (optimal at 145°F) and cuts starches at the ends to create 2-glucose sugars (maltose) (which are fermentable). A balance is usually desired and &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; ranges from 148-152°F, but higher and lower mash temperatures are certainly possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steeping does not require mashing. Grain like crystal malts or roast barley have been fully mashed in the husk. This occurs during the roasting process. Hot water is required only to dissolve the sugars inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3437" LastEditorUserId="3437" LastEditDate="2013-06-15T01:26:54.030" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T01:26:54.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-14T19:18:45.637" Score="6" ViewCount="651" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible and effective, without causing undue stress to the keezer, to temperature control a second insulated chamber? I would like to be able to control fermentation temps and/or run casked ale (during the summer) at around 50°F. The Keezer is set around 1°C and is fairly large (fits 4 kegs, hump space contains bottles &amp;amp; CO2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mainly concerned with the fact that you're moving air, not heat per se. Is there a better way to do this (without spending a lot of money)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3437" LastEditorUserId="3437" LastEditDate="2013-06-15T10:41:14.293" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T19:39:12.673" Title="Can forced air be used effectively to cool a second chamber from a keezer?" Tags="|kegging|temperature|temperature-control|kegerator|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10176" CreationDate="2013-06-14T21:12:24.307" Score="1" ViewCount="1726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a swamp cooler to keep my fermentation cool: a bucket full of water where my carboy or bucket goes in, and a t-shirt draped over the carboy/bucket with a fan pointed at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One room has two carboys in it and no sunlight hits them, so I use a white t-shirt over those and use bleach in the water of the swamp cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I recently just set up two carboys in another room where light now hits them, so I use a black t-shirt over those. At the time I set them up 4 and 5 days ago, I used some star san solution left over in the swamp cooler. But now that it has been over 3 days, the star san isn't sanitizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't use bleach in the swamp coolers with the black t-shirts as it will bleach them white and allow sunlight penetration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquor is too expensive. Star San likewise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is an alternative that fits my needs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T02:21:47.887" Title="For a Swamp Cooler, what alternatives are there to Bleach, Vodka, and Star San?" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|starsan|liquor|swamp-cooler|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10164" CreationDate="2013-06-14T21:34:03.983" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just use water. The evaporating liquid does not need to be a sanitizer, per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T21:34:03.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10124" CreationDate="2013-06-15T01:19:05.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruits-raspberry-pi-lesson-11-ds18b20-temperature-sensing/overview&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a pure RaspberryPi + DS18B20 solution (no Arduino required) and tutorial by Adafruit requiring the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RPi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DS18B20&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bread Board&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Pi Cobbler&quot; (purchased from Adafruit)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Male Jumper wires&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T01:19:05.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10171" CreationDate="2013-06-15T15:09:53.247" Score="1" ViewCount="4249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the world of homebrewing, having completed 2 batches. Both batches have been 'recipe in a box' kind of beers from Brewer's Best. The first was an Imperial Nut Brown Ale, and the second was an Irish Stout. In both cases, the beer was bottled for the carbonation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first beer was still flat after 3 weeks, and after agitating them and waiting an additional 2 weeks the carbonation was fine. The second was great (carbonation-wise) after 3 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first beer came out to about 1.5% below the expected ABV (came out to ~5%, when expecting a ~6.5% ABV), and the second one came to a disappointing 3%, when it was supposed to be 4.5 - 5%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one tasted pretty good, but still had a small water aftertaste almost separate if that makes any sense (consumed anywhere from 5 weeks to 4 months after bottling). The second beer was horrible. By the time the beers were consumed (~5 weeks after bottling), they were over-carbonated and it felt like half your drink was an Irish Stout and the other half was tonic (a friend involved in the brewing process swears that he tastes the StarSan, but I didn't). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, why does my beer have a separate water aftertaste? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need additional information, please comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2498" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T18:04:05.697" Title="Why does my beer have a separate water aftertaste?" Tags="|water|stout|aftertaste|brown-ale|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-16T01:20:36.087" Score="5" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottled about a month and a half ago.  Every bottle I tried has had no carbonation.  But I just opened up a bottle and it was over carbonated, and it almost exploded out of the bottle.  I had this problem with another batch last year.  Almost all the bottles had no carbonation but I had a few bottle bombs.  Could it be that the priming sugar didn't mix enough in the bottling bucket and it all just went into a few bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3540" LastEditorUserId="3466" LastEditDate="2013-06-16T12:09:24.803" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T12:33:07.270" Title="no carbonation and a few bottle-bombs" Tags="|carbonation|bottle|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10168" CreationDate="2013-06-16T12:33:07.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does sound like your priming sugar wasn't mixed very well. That said, if the flat bottles are sweet to the taste there's something else afoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I bottle I usually mix a cup of water with 3/4 cup of corn sugar and stick it in the microwave for a couple minutes to boil it. I then let it cool for a while before pouring the solution into the bottom of the bottling bucket before racking the beer. After that, I gently stir the sugar into the beer with the auto-syphon before filling any bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1390" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T12:33:07.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10167" CreationDate="2013-06-16T14:47:25.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A watery aftertaste can come from several sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simply too little malt or bittering hops in the beer, for example, you used kit that contains a lot of sugar rather than malt, the back end of the beer can taste watery, simply because there is nothing to provide any aftertaste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insufficient salts - water salts affect the taste of the beer including the aftertaste. Water salts are to the beer like seasoning is to food and are needed for some styles to taste right. (E.g. Burton water for English Milds.) John Palmer gives an in-depth discussion of brewing Water and salts &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2013/05/28/beer-brewing-water-with-john-palmer-beersmith-podcast-60/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A high pH - beer should be around 3.8-4.5 pH, depending upon style. The lower pH makes the beer feel bright and vibrant - a higher pH will make the beer taste dull. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low hop bitterness - as well as reducing the pH (see above), hop bittering acids linger well into the aftertaste. With low-hopped beers the aftertaste comes from the malt, but if that's also missing then the aftertaste will just be watery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For stouts, using some roasted barley or Carafa will help add some dryness to the aftertaste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-06-16T18:04:05.697" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T18:04:05.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10175" CreationDate="2013-06-16T21:17:05.703" Score="0" ViewCount="1342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm living in a condo with no outdoors space and a mere 12&quot; clearing on my stovetop.  One-gallon all-grain batches are easy, but I'm trying to figure out some logistics for going larger... aside from buying a portable induction cooktop for use elsewhere in the kitchen!  I've read a number of recipes that call for &quot;topping off to X&quot; in the fermenter (carboy in my case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are reasonable limits to making a concentrated wort (say, for a non-imperial, non-hop-bomb beer)?  To what extent can I load up my pot with grain and produce the initial wort, then boil, chill, and add water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this doesn't broaden the question too much, but are there any notable drawbacks to brewing like this?  I found this answer about &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/1624/3466&quot;&gt;full wort boils&lt;/a&gt;, but the comments refer to extract, whereas I'm thinking about all-grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T11:59:00.823" Title="Brewing with a concentrated wort" Tags="|wort|small-space|small-batch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-17T00:42:40.183" Score="7" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone have a clue what these formations are in my Kolsch style beer? Been in secondary for about 3 weeks due primarily to lazyness. I cleared with gelatin about two weeks ago and it's nice and clear but these have formed on the surface. Wondering what they are. Beer smells delicious and tastes fine so I'm not necessarily worried just curious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0axsV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dangling participle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T09:22:37.580" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T07:47:04.653" Title="interesting formation in fermenting beer" Tags="|beer|secondary|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10498" CreationDate="2013-06-17T00:47:43.237" Score="1" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently learned about &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lees_%28fermentation%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Light Lees Protocol&lt;/a&gt; and was wondering if someone would be able to relate some practical anecdotal experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a substantial difference in quality if you separate the wine from the lees after a time instead of letting the wine ferment in bottles?  For example, what would happen if I let the must sit on the lees for three or so months?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, would the lees' taste continue to mature after being removed, or is the prevalence you experience at tasting during secondary indicative of the final result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3471" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2013-06-17T17:31:59.637" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T19:21:16.230" Title="Wine Brewing on Lees (Sur lie)" Tags="|fermentation|wine|secondary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10172" CreationDate="2013-06-17T11:59:00.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;12 inches head-space is unimaginably tight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first big concern that comes to mind is efficiency of your mash.  While the following example is impossible/impractical, imagine trying to mash the grains required for a 5 gallon batch of wort in a 2 gallon pot.  Even if all the grains would fit, there's no way you'd have enough room for all the water, and your efficiency would plummet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of condensing on the stove-top, and then diluting after the fact, how many pots can you split your batch up with?  What if you mashed in an igloo or other separate mash tun other than your stove, and evenly split your batch among two or three pots, one gallon each (we're talking 2.5 gallon batches, maybe more if you can fit it), boiled the three kettles separately, hopping them equally, then combining them in your carboy?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a lot of wort to chill multiple kettles separately, but it sounds a bit more reasonable than trying to find a way to concentrate your wort only to expand it again once it goes into the carboy.  Either way, you're going to need space, so I'd recommend mashing outside of your stove top with a cooler, and boiling the wart evenly across a couple of boil kettles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T11:59:00.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10164" CreationDate="2013-06-17T12:39:12.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest the iodine-based sanitizer knows as &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Iodophor&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; if you really feel the need to sanitize the water:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iodophor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iodophor&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This stuff is an iodine-based sanitizer, fairly common in homebrewing (but probably not as common as Star San). I started out my homebrewing career with it, and still have some left. A big bottle goes a long way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In proper dilutions, the treated water is barely colored with a very, very pale amber tint. There's no chance you'd see such a tint on any dark shirts that you are using to wick up the water, although you MIGHT see pure white t-shirts get a bit &quot;dingy&quot; if you used them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Star San, this stuff does not maintain sanitization for multiple days, but sinec a 32oz bottle cost around $15 and you'd be using a cap full a day &lt;strong&gt;at most&lt;/strong&gt;, we're talking pennies per day probably. Be sure to pick up some test strips as well, since they will tell you the exact strength of the sanitizing solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instawares.com/sanitizer-test-strips-iodine.day-203030111.0.7.htm?s_cseid=GSHP&amp;amp;gclid=CK3ggLGN67cCFWhp7AodpGwAXg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instawares.com/sanitizer-test-strips-iodine.day-203030111.0.7.htm?s_cseid=GSHP&amp;amp;gclid=CK3ggLGN67cCFWhp7AodpGwAXg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, most of the time when you order Iodaphor, the home brew shops will throw in some test strips for free, so you might not even have to purchase those. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final unrelated note: you really, really need to get that carboy out of direct sunlight. Don't rely on a t-shirt to block the UV rays. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T12:39:12.400" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2013-06-17T14:24:43.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Know your water report &amp;amp; filter/treat your water to style&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a good reason Ireland is known for their stouts and the Czech Republic is known for their Pils.  They brew beers best suited for their water based on the minerals in them.  At the very least, owe it to your beer to filter it through a charcoal filter, or add &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/campden-tablet-305633/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;campden tablets to clear up chlorine&lt;/a&gt; if your water is treated.  The largest ingredient in your beer is water. Treating it to get rid of chlorine or whatever well-water bugs exist and treating it to get the right pH and alkalinity is what separates good beers from great beers.  Get a copy of your water report, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;know how to read it&lt;/a&gt;, and if you want to brew to style, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;make adjustments using various salts&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing an all-grain mash, use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/buffer-5-2-1-lb.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;5.2 pH stabilizer&lt;/a&gt;.  Some brewers contest that 5.2 will add a salty flavor to the beer, while other proponents of 5.2 defend that it does not.  The alternative is to add comparable salts to bring the pH down.  Believe it or not, you'll get more tannins out of your grains from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;higher than normal pH&lt;/a&gt; than what you'll typically get out of boiling your grains or squeezing the grain bag during a BIAB or partial-mash.  Classic decoction mashing would involve brewers separating out a portion of the mash into a separate kettle, bring it to a boil, then add it back in to the main mash tun to bring the mash temperature up to the next decoction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all-grain brewing, knowing your water and filtering/treating it appropriately is an absolute must in order to brew excellent beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-06-17T15:54:13.800" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T15:54:13.800" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-06-17T14:24:43.263" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10179" CreationDate="2013-06-17T18:48:08.267" Score="1" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first fruit beer... I have just racked a wheat beer base onto a secondary of food blended frozen cherries. Am I ok to give this a bit of a stir now and again? Im aware introducing too much oxygen is bad, but I just can't see how the cherry paste locked at the bottom of the tub can impart any flavour into the liquid if it is not touching the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3219" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T19:11:31.510" Title="Stir fruit in cherry wheat?" Tags="|fruit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10178" CreationDate="2013-06-17T18:50:37.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There shouldn't be a problem with a gentle stir or rocking of the carboy. Too much is a problem though as you seem to be aware of already. Keep it to a minimum. and be sure to go &lt;strong&gt;gentle&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T18:50:37.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10178" CreationDate="2013-06-17T19:11:31.510" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give it a swirl. I would avoid stirring personally due to potential sanitation issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for potential oxidation, you should be good there. You just racked beer on top of the cherries, so there's going to be some additional fermentation of the sugar from the fruit. This should produce enough CO2 to clear out the head space in your carboy, so you shouldn't have any oxygen left in there to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T19:11:31.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-18T03:43:16.567" Score="1" ViewCount="4595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to this blog and brewing. Recently i put down my first Coopers Real Ale. All went well, great flavor but flat to very slight carbonation in bottles.&#xA;1.5 tsp in 1250ml and .5 tsp in 750ml bottles.&#xA;Is this too little? I wanted to avoid making bombs. It was in primary for 6 days after it had finished working.&#xA;Any advice out there?&#xA;Cheers&#xA;G&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3544" LastEditorUserId="3466" LastEditDate="2013-06-18T08:08:57.440" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T18:02:04.627" Title="Flat beer. Not enough priming sugar?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10181" CreationDate="2013-06-18T08:08:38.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A typical 20 liter batch uses around 120g of table sugar, or 6g per liter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One teaspoon of sugar is about &lt;a href=&quot;http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090130140047AALyqrG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;4.2g&lt;/a&gt;. So when you used 0.5tsp in 750ml that's 2.1/0.750 = 2.8 grams per liter, which is less than half the typical 6 grams per liter. For 1.5tsp in 1250ml, that's 1.5*4.2/1.25 = 5g/l so much closer, but still undercarbonated - it's quite hard to measure out half a teaspoon so it could easily have been less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://kotmf.com/tools/prime.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carbonation calculator&lt;/a&gt; can help you find out how much sugar to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than adding sugar to each bottle, you are better off weighing the total amount sugar and boiling that in some water and adding that to the bottling bucket before racking from the carboy. Less chance of contamination and weighing errors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-06-18T18:02:04.627" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T18:02:04.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10173" CreationDate="2013-06-19T04:40:16.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple of possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A cellulose-producing bacteria, such as acetobacter. Certainly looks like it to me. Tartness is another indication of this. Vinegar or acetate smell is also a clue for acetobacter. That looks similar to cellulose you'd see in something like a new kombucha SCOBY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some other bug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Much less likely: overheated gelatin finings / mash debris / protein mobilized by CO2. This just doesn't look like that, and as you commented you use gelatin successfully already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3546" LastEditorUserId="3546" LastEditDate="2020-08-26T07:47:04.653" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T07:47:04.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10164" CreationDate="2013-06-19T04:48:01.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd personally use bleach for this--get some white fabric instead.  One teaspoon per gallon is a good minimal concentration.   Maybe try 2 tsp.  Whatever you use, it will end up concentrating, as evaporation (like distillation) will leave behind everything but the water.   Wash your fabric occasionally to remove this concentration (phosphates and organic salts in the star san case, iodine in the iodophor case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree you shouldn't need to sanitize this per se, as your fermenter should be sealed w/ air lock.  However, a little chlorine is a cheap way to avoid mold build up on things you won't be consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3546" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T04:48:01.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10109" CreationDate="2013-06-19T23:52:01.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;strong&gt;vinyl&lt;/strong&gt; isn’t the gold standard for homebrewer’s tubing, I don’t know what is.  It’s good to ~170° F max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;strong&gt;Tobias&lt;/strong&gt; mentioned, silicone tubing is used for higher temp transfers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purchase anything anywhere “Food Grade” and you’re good-to-go for low-temp homebrew, but I wouldn’t get too creative with random hardware store DIY bric-a-brac without the “Food Grade” claim.  There are some hearty anti-fungal additives to many compounds.  (Case in point – when sinking a ball valve into a mash tun, make sure and purchase your silicone sealant from your local tropical fish store vs. the first thing you see at Home Depot.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3545" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-06-25T00:53:41.020" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T00:53:41.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10164" CreationDate="2013-06-20T02:21:47.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried using a swamp cooler, but found picnic ice packs to be much more effective. After the initial investment, they are free. I just change them out a couple of times a day for the first three to four days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3549" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T02:21:47.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10191" CreationDate="2013-06-20T18:17:33.913" Score="2" ViewCount="2564" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be very similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7067/strange-black-pods-in-wort-hop-seeds&quot;&gt;this question about hop seeds&lt;/a&gt; but I have not used fresh hops, I used pellet centennial hops purchased vacuum packed and frozen from homebrew shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ingredients (1 gallon batch):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Liquid Amber extract - 1.2 pounds &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Centennial hops - .5 ounces Dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast - as per package instructions. cant find the package now, a&#xA;little embarrassing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Process:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;80 minute boil. Stirred in extract during water warming up. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;0.3 ounces of hops added 20 minutes into boil (for 1 hour of boiling)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;0.2 ounces added 15 minutes before boil completion.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chilled in ice bath until 75 degrees then pitched the yeast. Continued chill until 70 degrees. (Yeast suggested temp range was ~64 to 71.6 degrees. Maximum was 60-78)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Transferred to carboy, added extra water that had been boiled separately to bring volume up, added blow off tube.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Results:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carboy left to rest at 9pm on 2013/6/15&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation seen at 10am when carboy checked on 2013/6/16&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation going very well when checked on 2013/6/17 at 4pm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation still going well on 2013/6/18, not as heavy as 17th, but still left blowoff tube on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Checked ferment on 2013/6/20, ferment was ready to change over to smaller airlock. Black spots noted.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image from top of carboy looking down into it, you can see the specs in the bottom right. The glass is foggy from water vapor on the inside, this was the best picture I could get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p9QFh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image from top of carboy looking down into it&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a poor job of filtering out the hops, long story, they were not well filtered out. First time mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible I am just seeing remnants of these hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2422" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:45:06.187" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:45:06.187" Title="My ferment has small black specs in it, is this contamination?" Tags="|hops|contamination|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10190" CreationDate="2013-06-20T18:19:31.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that's entirely possible.  At any rate, I wouldn't worry about it.  I see nothing abnormal, and there's nothing you could do about it now anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T18:19:31.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10190" CreationDate="2013-06-20T18:20:30.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For one I've never filtered out my hops so I wouldn't say its a mistake, just a different way of doing it. You are most likely seeing hop flecks or bits of protein floating to the surface, nothing to worry about. RDWHAHB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T18:20:30.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10195" CreationDate="2013-06-20T23:15:25.663" Score="5" ViewCount="3016" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I understand that going above the optimum yeast temperature specified is a bad thing and will cause major off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what happens when you go underneath it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I am currently using a Wyeast 1214 Belgian Abbey from NB which specifies the optimum temperature range as 68-78*F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tendency is, around 3pm, when I start to feel warm, to grab 5 frozen water bottles and throw it in my swamp cooler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just rigged up a temperature monitoring apparatus this morning and have been measuring the temperature all day. When I started to feel warm, the temperature in the swamp cooler was only 72F, and now after I threw in 5 frozen water bottles, the temperature in the swamp cooler is 60F (now it is actually 59.8F!) (now 57.7F)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the consequences of my actions for doing this to an Ale?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T00:02:40.500" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T15:47:46.263" Title="Going Below Optimum Yeast Temperatures (For Ale in Particular)" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|swamp-cooler|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10197" CreationDate="2013-06-21T00:14:38.387" Score="3" ViewCount="19616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know yeast ferments sugars into alcohol at a predictable rate, but is the same is true for carbon dioxide? Since I know the amount of sugars fermented though my gravity readings, shouldn't it be possible to calculate C02 yield? Does anyone know a formula for doing this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask purely out of curiosity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2005" LastActivityDate="2021-07-05T18:38:02.897" Title="Calculating carbon dioxide production during fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|calculations|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10193" CreationDate="2013-06-21T01:16:34.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're measuring the temperature of the swamp cooler water and not the beer, and the beer will take a long time to reach the cooler water temperature, which will also rise in temp during the same period. This is because heat transfer between the beer and the cooling water is slow, since the surface area is small compared to the volume, plus both liquids are not in motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what I expect will happen is that the beer temp will drop in a few hours, but no where near the drop from 75F to 60F. Probably somewhere in the middle - 66-68F at a guess. So I think the yeast will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what would happen if you really did drop the temp to 60F? The yeast would drop out of the beer and stop fermenting, leaving a high FG/low attenuated beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the first 3-5 days of fermentation (depending upon activity level) it's a good idea to slowly raise the temp of the beer to 72-74F so that the yeast are encouraged to continue fermenting and not drop out. This will give you a better attenuated beer that often requires less conditioning time. The increased temperature doesn't give the off-flavours you mentioned, since the bulk of fermentation is now complete - the yeast are much less active and produce far fewer flavor compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: As you see, Denny and I have different perspectives, and unless you have a probe immersed in the beer, you don't really know what the fermentation temperature is. While one yeast strain may tolerate a drop to 60F or lower, another may stall at that temperature. Either way, it's not usually a crisis, just rouse the yeast and raise the temp and fermentation will typically pick up again. But ideally you should be looking for a more even temperature - avoid temperature swings. You can try adding just a single bottle more frequently, rather than dumping 5 in at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-06-23T14:22:14.070" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T14:22:14.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10193" CreationDate="2013-06-21T14:55:59.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast will not necessarily drop out at 60F.  I've used 1214 at that temp many times and I find it preferable to fermenting it at higher temps.  In fact, I prefer fermenting pretty much any ale (and many lager) yeasts at or below the lower end of the temp range.  You get cleaner beer with fewer esters and phenolics.  I often ferment WY1007 and 1728 in the low to mid 50s, despite the manufacturer's recommendation of almost 10 degrees higher.  IMO, all the temp ranges listed by yeast companies are higher than what I prefer.  Wyeast sells one strain of yeast that I gave them (WY1450) and the temp range they have for that is at least 8F higher than what I actually use!  The exact behavior will depend on which yeast strain you use, but in general there is nothing wrong with fermenting somewhat below a yeast's listed temp range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T15:01:00.697" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T15:01:00.697" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10194" CreationDate="2013-06-21T15:06:51.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One person has measured CO2 production and found that he got 25 gal. of CO2 for one gal. of 1.060 beer.  Another person who has measured it has written &quot;Looking at the ratio of alcohol and CO2 atomic weights in the fermentatin equation suggests that for every pound of alcohol you should get 1.045 lbs of CO2. The above brew (in the example he was writing about) is 6.6% ABV or 5.28% ABW. In 40 lbs of beer, that's 2.1 lbs of alcohol, meaning 2.2 lbs of CO2. Or 133 gallons. This jives with the amount I would collect for a beer of that strength, though my measurements are pretty approximate.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2013-06-22T18:23:19.700" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T18:23:19.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10199" CreationDate="2013-06-22T17:32:01.137" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dunkel recipe and I wanted to know if I could simply add honey to the wort making process to add flavor and raise the OG. I am not planning to take anything out as substitution. Are there any problems I could face with this? Will the yeast be fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T18:21:11.707" Title="Honey addition to dunkel" Tags="|honey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10198" CreationDate="2013-06-22T18:21:11.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will raise the OG, but add little to no flavor.  If you want honey flavor to remain, you need to add it to a secondary fermenter.  Even then it will likely be minimal.  If you add honey to the boil, the flavor and aroma will be driven off by boiling and fermentation.  Whether or not the yeast will be fine depends on what yeast you're using, how much of it you pitch, how healthy it is, and what the OG of the beer ends up being.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T18:21:11.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10201" CreationDate="2013-06-22T19:13:35.967" Score="4" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;A co-worker of mine had a roommate move out and leave his brewing stuff behind, including two 5 gallon kegs (pictured below). Co-worker ended up giving them to me for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you need a CO2 tank, and connectors, but what size CO2 tank and are the 'Ball Lock Connectors' the right one in general/these specific ones? Can I use the same cleaning/rinsing chemicals on these (PBW/StarSan)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I am a complete noob to the world of using my own keg, what else do I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VgoOZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;5 Gallon Kegs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2498" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T09:51:08.330" Title="I have a keg, now what?" Tags="|keg|kegerator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10200" CreationDate="2013-06-22T19:36:08.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are ball lock kegs.  You can use PBW (or Oxiclean) to clean them and StarSan to sanitize.  Common CO2 tank sizes are 5 gal. and 20 gal.  5 gal. are more portable if that matters to you.  I use a 20 gal. and only need to get it filled once a year.  Here is some excellent info on cleaning, maintaining, and using kegs....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20061113163320/http://www.bodensatz.com/staticpages/index.php?page=Soda-Kegs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://web.archive.org/web/20061113163320/http://www.bodensatz.com/staticpages/index.php?page=Soda-Kegs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="3453" LastEditDate="2013-06-23T13:01:44.337" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T13:01:44.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10203" CreationDate="2013-06-23T18:50:43.277" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm refining a recipe for a chocolate wheat ale. I'm using 2 pounds of chocolate malt, which seems to be exceptionally oily, effectively killing the head. It still has carbonation, just no head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on neutralizing the oils? Or maybe sub the chocolate malt for something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3560" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T19:05:44.913" Title="Oily Beer - Can I get the head back?" Tags="|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10202" CreationDate="2013-06-23T19:05:44.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 lb. of chocolate malt is really a lot!  Are you sure you want to do that?  IF the chocolate malt is making the beer &quot;oily&quot;, then cutting it back would reduce that affect.  However, I've never found chocolate malt to do that, so maybe you have another issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T19:05:44.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10206" CreationDate="2013-06-24T14:46:47.553" Score="1" ViewCount="2536" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a higher than expected OG in my homebrew. It was estimated to come out to 1.060 but instead ended up at 1.076. The back of the yeast I used said that it is good in a brew of up to 1.060 OG. The yeast seems to still be alive and kicking after 12 hours. Should I still be concerned? Is there anything I should do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T17:27:26.097" Title="High OG content for yeast" Tags="|yeast|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10204" CreationDate="2013-06-24T16:23:22.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you used liquid yeast, you did not pitch enough yeast.  Despite what the yeast manufacturers say, a pack of liquid yeast alone should not be used for a beer over 1.040 OG.  Both my experience and scientific pitching rate calculators confirm this.  If it was dry yeast, you probably have just barely enough.  No matter which kind you used, it would be a good idea to add another pack of the same type at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T16:23:22.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10204" CreationDate="2013-06-25T14:44:01.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to be excessively concerned now. If the beer really was 1.076, the yeast will multiply to the quantity needed to ferment it - they don't just suddenly stop working when the OG goes above 1.060 - the yeast will still ferment and make beer. However, the multiplication is a stress factor for the yeast and the beer will not be as good as if you had pitched the correct amount of yeast. In future, buy more packs of yeast, or make a starter. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;yeast calculator&lt;/a&gt; can tell you how much to pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worse case is that it may end up being slightly sweeter/fuller because of a higher final gravity, or possibly more fruity because of the increased rate of propagation, and maybe some hot alcohol as well from underpitching. But you'll still end up with beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To improve your process for future brews, I would try to find out why the beer was at 1.076. Assuming a beer kit with extract, the higher gravity will be either because you added less water than described or the wort wasn't completely mixed when you took a gravity sample, so some parts are thin while others are thick, and you took a reading from the thicker part. Or, if you formulated/made changes to a recipe then use brewing software such as Beersmith, or one of the many online &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recipe formulators&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good idea to &lt;a href=&quot;http://mikesbrewreview.com/how-to-rehydrate-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rehydrate&lt;/a&gt; dry yeast, especially for bigger beers, since you can lose up to 40% of the yeast cells when direct pitching. But of course, if there are instructions specifically saying to pitch directly then do that, otherwise rehydrate in the sachet in 200ml of hand-warm water and leave for 15 mins, then stir, and leave for a further 15 mins, before pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For liquid yeast, always make a starter, since pitching just the pack/vial is almost always an underpitch. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7483/always-making-a-starter-vs-following-package-description/7485#7485&quot;&gt;Always making a starter vs following the package description&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T17:27:26.097" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10190" CreationDate="2013-06-25T19:29:21.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only way to know for sure if it's contaminated is to taste it. If it's sour, it's contaminated. May not be bad though, if you like sours. Sometimes mistakes make great beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hehe Scott, yeah, I guess the addition of a bit of lactobacillus (tangy/sour) is a negative flavor most of the time, but very drinkable. I think what you are describing is a bit more destructive :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T09:22:07.030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T09:22:07.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-26T05:40:06.017" Score="2" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several sources claim that the Fix classic &lt;em&gt;Principles of Brewing Science&lt;/em&gt; has several errors; however, there doesn't seem to be any comprehensive list of what is incorrect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I find a complete list of the errata for this book?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1933" LastEditorUserId="2725" LastEditDate="2013-07-02T13:26:01.840" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T21:14:46.350" Title="List of Errors in Fix's Principles of Brewing Science" Tags="|books|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10208" CreationDate="2013-06-27T00:57:09.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Errata imply that the author and/or the publisher have accepted the criticism as valid error in the book.  I don't think you're going to find that's the case, partially because the book has been out of print for a long time, and the author has passed away.  You could always &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewerspublications.com/contact-us/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;contact Kristi Switzer&lt;/a&gt; and ask her directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, can you cite any sources for your claim the book has several errors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="3565" LastEditDate="2013-10-12T21:14:46.350" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T21:14:46.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10064" CreationDate="2013-06-27T01:07:54.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ipcbee.com/vol41/003-ICEBB2012-E005.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This study&lt;/a&gt; demonstrated that iso-alpha acids degraded more quickly in low pH environments, particularly at lower temperatures. If I'm understanding this correctly, I think this means that lower pH beers will lose bitterness more rapidly over time, compared to high pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps your experiments are showing the same effect. The high pH samples were more bitter because the iso-alpha acids in the low pH samples had degraded more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-04-13T13:11:08.040" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T13:11:08.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10212" CreationDate="2013-06-27T17:54:31.237" Score="4" ViewCount="3208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a recipe that calls for 10ml of hop extract at 90 minutes.  My local homebrew store does not sell hop extract.  Since it is a bittering charge, what is the calculation used to convert 10ml of hop extract to alpha acids needed from pellet hops?  IBUs are measured at 90 for the recipe.  OG is 1.082.  Recipe is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2013/04/ipa-clone-series-stone-enjoy-by-ipa.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-06-27T21:54:21.513" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T20:01:58.890" Title="Hop extract substitution" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10211" CreationDate="2013-06-27T19:23:42.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of online IBU calculators that will help you out, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/ibu-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe calls for adding 4 ounces with 15 minutes left in the boil, and 3.75 at flameout. Assuming the flameout addition adds no bitterness, we still have to calculate the IBU contributions from the 15 minute addition. Let's assume these AA percentages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simcoe: 13 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delta: 6 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Northern Brewer: 10 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amarillo: 9&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/ibu-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;online calculator&lt;/a&gt;, and assuming pellet hops, this yields around 50 IBUs, meaning we have to get another 40 IBUs from a 90 minute addition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use any high-alpha hop, as the 90 minute boil means that very little varietal flavour will remain in the beer. For example, another 1.1 oz of Simcoe gets you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've purchased your hops, check the AA percentages and re-run the calculations. Different batches of hops can have very different AA percentages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-06-27T21:26:08.970" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T21:26:08.970" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10214" CreationDate="2013-06-27T20:20:25.853" Score="3" ViewCount="940" Body="&lt;p&gt;With an automated mash setup, it could be fairly easy to bring the mash to a boil and cool it. I'm wondering if this could be used to replicate the results of a decoction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If mash thickness is important to the desired effect, you could pump a fairly precise amount of the wort out of your mash to thicken it before you boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A plate chiller or similar could be used to cool the mash, allowing you to achieve different rests like a traditional decoction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T00:21:22.277" Title="Can boiling the entire mash achieve results similar to decoction?" Tags="|mash|decoction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10213" CreationDate="2013-06-27T20:52:53.757" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you really don't want to boil the entire mash--that would denature all the enzymes! You'd end up with a very starchy beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a traditional decoction mash, you typically wait 15 minutes, then pull 1/3 of the mash (a thick pull: mainly grain plus a little wort) to be boiled. The reason behind this: what's pulled contains relatively little enzymes, the assumption being that they have been dissolved from the grain into the liquid. As such, boiling the grains does little to reduce the total diastatic power of the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you boil the whole mash, you'll destroy all the enzymes, leaving you with only a partial conversion--a lot of starch and little fermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've boiled the whole mash, there's no point trying to cool this to do any rests--all the enzymes that perform beta glucan, protein, and saccharification rests are long gone. Furthermore, the rests in a decoction are the same as any other method of raising the temperature in a mash (infusion/direct heat). However, historically decoction was effective in the absence of accurate thermometers, since it allowed the brewer to hit rest temperatures by measuring the volume of the decoction rather than by directly measuring overall temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to experiment--and I stress &lt;em&gt;experiment!&lt;/em&gt;--then you could boil the mash after the normal mash is complete. This may increase the quantity of melanoidins. If you try that, please post your results!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="2725" LastEditDate="2013-07-02T13:25:31.633" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T13:25:31.633" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-28T09:29:02.300" Score="3" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been searching online and reading up on all-grains brewing and it seems like most places have indicated that all-grains receipes requires mashing at the full batch size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ie. If I want to make a batch size of 23L, I'll have to be mashing the full 23L of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any effect if I were to brew less than the batch size amount and top-up water just like how its normall done in kits/partial mash recipes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T14:26:46.017" Title="Can you brew an all-grains recipe without brewing a full volume" Tags="|all-grain|first-time-brewer|biab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10217" CreationDate="2013-06-28T09:52:28.957" Score="6" ViewCount="8517" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to some recipes I have seen, a simple way to make a fruit beer is to make a regular &quot;base&quot; beer, and then rack it on top of the fruit after about a week of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, how do I measure the alcohol level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The classic OG measurement would not include the fruit part. The calculation would need to take into account alcohol from primary, sugar &amp;amp; liquid volume added to secondary, and alcohol generated in secondary.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3009" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T20:46:47.120" Title="How do I measure the alcohol of a fruit beer?" Tags="|fruit|measurements|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10216" CreationDate="2013-06-28T12:18:50.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heres a good bit of information from the mad fermentationist about alcohol content and fruit in beer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2010/10/adding-fruit-to-beer-increases-alcohol.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2010/10/adding-fruit-to-beer-increases-alcohol.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fruit also contains other things (water) that will further dilute the beer, so the effect will be minimal, if anything at all, and can actually cause the total alcohol content by volume to decrease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T12:18:50.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10215" CreationDate="2013-06-28T14:26:46.017" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can make a concentrated wort and the dilute that after the boil as with extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key differences are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;lower mash efficiency: higher gravity mashes tend to have lower conversion efficiency. To keep boil volume to a minimum, you might even choose not to sparge, and just use the first runnings - expect conversion efficiency around 50%. More grain will be needed compared to doing a full boil.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;lower hop utilization: with higher boil gravity, you get less bitterness from the hops, so more hops are required.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from those differences, you should get just as good results with a partial boil compared to a full boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for reference,  you don't actually mash the full batch size - typically half of that. The rest of the liquid comes from the sparge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T14:26:46.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-29T00:44:48.370" Score="2" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep hearing about how we should try and keep our conversion efficiency high, but what exactly does it affect? Is a lower conversion efficiency beer bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-06-30T17:00:04.203" Title="What is the effect of conversion efficiency on your brew?" Tags="|all-grain|brewing|conversion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10219" CreationDate="2013-06-29T00:58:27.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It affects mainly the quantity of grains you need to produce a particular beer. Beers come out great with low efficiency, you just need to use more grain to produce them. On a homebrew scale, efficiency doesn't really make significant cost issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people maintain that lower efficiency (e.g. no sparge) can taste more malty than beers where higher efficiency is obtained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The efficiency, and the quantity of grain required for a beer also determines the biggest beer you can brew if mash tun size is a limiting factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-06-29T00:58:27.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10219" CreationDate="2013-06-30T17:00:04.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can compensate for lower conversion efficiency by sparging more, which will raise your overall efficiency.  By keeping your conversion efficiency high, you don't need to sparge as much.  It's largely believed that the earlier wort is of higher quality, so by being able to not sparge as much you get better tasting beer.  At least that's the theory.  I believe it based on my own experience, but it's hard to quantify something as subjective as &quot;better taste&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-06-30T17:00:04.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10223" CreationDate="2013-07-01T00:02:45.067" Score="0" ViewCount="3328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing on board a boat, so nothing here is ideal.  I'm just trying to reduce some equipment and simplify the process.  I want to add a spigot to the fermenter that will hold about 3.5 - 4 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I've never tried to brew this big of a batch all at once, I was hoping to get some advice on how high off the bottom should I place the spigot to ensure it will be clear of the sediment?  I'd like to get it about right the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3557" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T18:02:47.953" Title="Adding a spigot to a fermentation bucket what is a good height?" Tags="|fermentation|bucket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10222" CreationDate="2013-07-01T03:33:31.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there's not going to be a single right answer since the amount of sediment depends a lot on how much yeast there is, which is a factor of the batch size, O.G., yeast health, etc. Also there may be more or less hot and cold break depending on the rest of your brew process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible I would try to brew a typical batch and then see how bit your yeast cake actually is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, I would mount the spigot a little higher than anticipated. You can always tilt the bucket to get the last bit of beer out, but if the spigot is below the yeast cake level you're going to have a tough time. You could also add a tip tube later on if need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T03:33:31.263" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="366" CreationDate="2013-07-01T12:14:13.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewers friend has a nice list of recipes that you can look through and sort by many different criteria. They have tons of useful calculators and a recipe designer as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewers Friend&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Recipe Database&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Recipe Designer&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are tons of other useful things on that site besides what I have listed above, but those are the places I go most often there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T12:14:13.847" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-07-01T12:14:13.847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10229" CreationDate="2013-07-02T03:03:14.460" Score="1" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a software engineer who just bought a Johnson A419. I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nest.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nest thermostat&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, if I can control and monitor my house temps with my iDevices, why not my fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to hack together an Arduino (BLE, Wi-Fi, or otherwise) to allow me to monitor/record my fermentation temps remotely, via some manner of connection to the A419. I think I need more hardware info on the unit than &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgproducts.johnsoncontrols.com/MET_PDF/125188.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;just this PDF&lt;/a&gt; to do it, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone attempted this, or a similar modification to another controller? Any more in-depth info on the A419 out there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there a product that already does this? (short of starting from a Nest and working from there, of course)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2725" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T13:15:46.857" Title="Johnson A419 BLE/WiFi Modification" Tags="|equipment|temperature-control|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2013-07-02T06:23:39.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference between &quot;drinking&quot; tap water and &quot;rinsing&quot; with it is that our body can handle whatever small amount of bacteria may be in the water, but the conditions for fermenting beer are also ideal for bacteria to grow and multiply so that insignificant amount of bacteria we normally drink can grow under the right conditions (in the fermenter or bottle) and spoil a batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, beer is more resilient than we give it credit for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3578" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T06:23:39.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8063" CreationDate="2013-07-02T12:45:46.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rinse bottles with water, twice, at most three hours after consumption&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;de-label with a dishwasher, scheduled for late night cycle for grid-friendliness. putting them in a way that the opening will not be obscured by the rods so that water can get inside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sanitize in an oven, at 250 degrees for 40 minutes. This kills everything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am actually looking for high-pressure compressor to clean bigger pieces of dirt from inside of older bottles. Anybody has an idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3581" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T12:45:46.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-02T13:00:44.710" Score="2" ViewCount="1751" Body="&lt;p&gt;Friends often bring me empty bottles. Some of those not washed right after consumption are dirty, so I am looking for a good engineering solution to clean them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea is to use high pressure water supply. Does anybody have experience with that kind of things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3581" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T00:57:10.767" Title="High water pressure compressor for washing bottles" Tags="|bottles|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10225" CreationDate="2013-07-02T13:15:46.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going to go to the effort of including an arduino in the system, then it would be a good idea to also use that for temp control with a more sophisticated algorithm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Johnson controllers use simple thermostat algorithm which overshoots on heating or undershoots on cooling, simply because they switch on or off when the setpoint is reached, but already the cool/hot air in the fridge will continue cooling/heating the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewpi.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BrewPi&lt;/a&gt; project has implemented a predictive algorithm which eliminates over/undershoot. It also has monitoring via a LCD/web UI with temperature graphs. It also supports temperature profiles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T13:15:46.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10216" CreationDate="2013-07-02T20:46:47.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Morebeer has a simple table for common fruits, &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/articles/fruit_in_beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://morebeer.com/articles/fruit_in_beer&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely you will lower the alcohol content unless the addition is primarily water, not at all sweet, or your beer is extremely high alcohol to begin with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T20:46:47.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10232" CreationDate="2013-07-03T08:28:31.417" Score="7" ViewCount="11325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realise there is a tonne of information about cleaning on the net already, but I am just about to bottle my first batch of glass bottles and wanted to put my process out there to make sure I haven't made any mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse bottles with hot water after drinking and let drain (if possible)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Few days before bottling, fill a sink with hot water and 1 cap of unscented Napisan (sodium percarbonate - diluted I believe)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill each bottle from the sink, give a shake and let sit and soak for a while&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any bottles that have noticeable dirt in them, use bottle brush&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow to soak for 15 minutes (other people tend to say overnight but I was impatient and unsure how much difference it makes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse suds from each bottle in a sink of hot water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour a bit of boiling water into each bottle for final rinse, then leave upside down to drain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On brew day, pour a tiny bit of star san no-rinse sanitiser into one bottle with some hot water. Pour from bottle to bottle, topping up with hot tap water as needed until all bottles are soapy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Empty them all, cursory rinse, but leaving some suds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound like overkill? Not enough? Should I soak longer? Are any of my methods inefficient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I was thinking of storing the bottles in an esky (cooler) in case there are any explosions I won't come home to find the dog licking up beer and broken glass. Is this more of a risk to the other bottles in the esky? Any precautions I should take when handling the bottles for the first time? I've heard some horror stories about bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any advice. This site has saved me from ruining both of my previous brews :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3174" LastActivityDate="2018-08-03T12:41:08.583" Title="in depth cleaning glass bottles" Tags="|bottling|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10231" CreationDate="2013-07-03T14:06:02.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the whole this the kind of process you need if you're starting with fairly dirty bottles that have been left to dry with residue in them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, once you've used the bottles and then you rinse them immediately, then they will be much cleaner after second use, and you don't need the sodium percarbonate soak - a rinse (for dust etc.) and then soak in StarSan is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the StarSan, it is better to mix up starsan outside of any bottles (say, in a bucket) and transfer the mixture then to each bottle. It's very inaccurate to measure out small quantities of starsan. Or better still, half fill a bucket with starsan and just dunk all bottles in that until full. Leave for a couple of minutes then empty and drain. You don't need to rinse, just shake out some of the suds. Also, you don't need hot water. Kept in a sealed bucket, starsan can last for months. Test with a pH strip or pH meter - if the pH is less than pH 3.5 then it's still ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding bottle bombs, if you take a specific gravity reading before bottling, and ensure this at the expected FG, plus you also rack the beer into a bottling bucket, then add  boiled priming sugar in a little water after 20% of the beer is added so that the remainder of the beer mixes the sugar in and gently mix it, then there is little risk of bottle bombs. Alternatively use plastic soda bottles - not only are they larger in size, so less of a pain to fill, but they don't explode like glass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T14:06:02.540" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10235" CreationDate="2013-07-04T03:21:20.903" Score="0" ViewCount="4976" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the amount of psi a 5 gallon water bottle can hold?&#xA;My 5 gallon is filled with beer and a compressor is used to maintain a pressure. I do not want my bottle explodes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a 5 gallon of water because I don't have a normal 5 gallon keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3585" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T14:48:57.763" Title="What's the amount of psi a 5 gallon water bottle can hold?" Tags="|water|pressure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-04T04:10:18.903" Score="2" ViewCount="7374" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a rather simple keezer setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/etMg4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left keg is currently being force carbonated at 30 PSI.  The top keg is being kept shut off from receiving CO2.  The left keg's CO2 line is using a threaded CO2 keg adapter, I've ensured it is screwed on as tight as possible, maybe even too tight.  No beer is leaking anywhere, no audible gas can be heard escaping either keg... But...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top keg is being kept cut off for a reason.  Initially, the tank mysteriously drained over the course of a couple of days, and the pressure left the keg entirely.  When I recharged the CO2 tank today and plugged it back in, ensuring the adapter to the keg was on properly, and turned the red lever, it wasn't receiving gas.  It sure sounded like it was, but the dial remained at 0.  As I fiddled with the gray dial that adjust the amount of pressure and the cut-off lever, I eventually got it to up in pressure to about 10 PSI in the keg, but no matter what I set it at, it continued to audibly take in CO2 indefinitely until I flipped the lever to cut off any further CO2 from coming in.  As I turn the dial back down to open it up, even after hours of letting it sit, it seems to still be at the pressure I left it at before (if not 2-5 PSI more?), yet it sounds like it's taking in more CO2.  I assume this is the reason for my question of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is my CO2 tank slowly losing pressure?  I understand that as the tank gets colder, and colder, the pressure gauge indicating how much CO2 is left will drop, but by how much?  Currently, it crossed into the red on the dial (approximately 450 PSI, 50 below the &quot;re-fill&quot; line).  I know the pressure of the tank will decrease with temperature, but I currently have my keezer set to 38F (I'm in a hurry before tomorrow for that left keg).  I'm not sure how much I've lost to the top keg, but I left the shop with the tank at 800 PSI, and to have gone down almost by half seems a bit much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern though is that even though I have the top keg cut off, am I still losing pressure elsewhere?  Why is it that this started happening in the last week?  I've ensured all tube cinches are cinched very tightly, all points where a wrench can tighten down parts are tightened very well, and both kegs seem to be holding their pressure, despite the top one audibly telling me otherwise.  Is having the tank at 450, down 350 from today's recharge plus losing a couple of minutes worth to the never-satisfied-top-keg normal?  Why would the top keg seemingly take in an infinite amount of CO2, yet retain whatever pressure I leave it at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have not banged around the dual-gauge regulators, so I doubt it is in any way damaged.  I purchased it inside of a month ago, so it is still fairly new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt; It would appear that the CO2 has settled at the above mentioned PSI since last evening (approximately 10 hours now).  I'm guessing the top keg was the problem, and I lost a bit more gas than I wanted to by toying with it.  It has also held pressure throughout the night (or so the gauge says), and it still sounds like it's pushing pressure in when I open the cut-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE/REVISED QUESTION&lt;/strong&gt;  So I gave the thing a pretty good StarSan spray-down.  I didn't see anything.  but I did notice that once I flicked the gauge, the pressure went from 15 down to about 3, so the gauge was a lie.  I continued to spray everywhere, and even went as far as to disconnect the gas line from the keg, and sprayed inside that, then put it back on.  After toying with the cut-off lever, and looking around, I started to hear bubbles bursting, ever so slightly.  I looked up, and caught one right before it burst, coming out of the connector on the gas line.  I disconnected it, cut out the o-ring, replaced it with another, even replaced the entire connector and hose (it was the first connector I had from when I first got into kegging a year ago).  Everything is cinched on tight, and still I can see bubbles and hear a slight hiss coming from the connector.  What are my options as far as this?  Do they sell random replacement parts?  Do I even need to replace that ball-lock on the keg?  Why is it that this is happening now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I have maybe a gallon left.  I'm going to clean out a growler, save what I can of it, and try to drink the rest today/tomorrow as part of the American festivities.  Would be nice to try and salvage the keg though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-07-04T15:34:40.520" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T18:47:11.087" Title="CO2 tank slowly losing gas, not sure where the problem lies" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10233" CreationDate="2013-07-04T06:23:13.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that these are not designed to take pressure, I'd say the maximum safe pressure is &lt;strong&gt;zero&lt;/strong&gt;. Any more than that, and you're taking chances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's a chance you're willing to take, then the best way to know the maximum pressure is to get several of these and pressurize to breaking point. The maximum safe pressure is then half of this breaking pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you want to hold pressure to carbonate. Even if you do successfully carbonate without exploding the bottle, further danger comes if you knock the bottle or drop something in it that causes the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; to quickly come out of solution. Then you may get a quick buildup of pressure in the neck of the bottle, more than the bottle will tolerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're far better off saving up for a keg, or using beer bottles, or plastic soda bottles - all of these are designed to take pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-07-10T15:24:01.060" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T15:24:01.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10234" CreationDate="2013-07-04T08:32:40.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK I am going to take a stab despite having a few beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I get to rambling I want to mention, I use my spray bottle of sanitizer (starsan) to check for gas leaks by just spraying the crap out of everywhere gas could leak from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like the leak is in between the shutoff valve for this line and your ball-lock fitting? If you are confirming the keg hold pressure on it's own by disconnecting it I would also check that connection, I have had a crappy gas ball lock before and it leaked like a siv (no audible). It also looks like you have no hose clamps on that line, is that just the picture? Although I havent had any problems (assuming it the right size tubing) keeping pressure without a hose clamp, I would spray that down too. Side note before I forget, sometimes the noise from the regulator is louder then the leak. And going a little outside of the box, do you have the o-ring in between the tank and regulator? ....I will check this question tomorrow but to be honest I have lost my comprehensive abilities for tonight, good luck and try the spray thing! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T08:32:40.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10200" CreationDate="2013-07-04T20:05:30.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the a great kegging reference too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/1312/Summerzym95-Kegging_How-To.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/1312/Summerzym95-Kegging_How-To.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good pictures and informative reading with no fluff&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-08-11T09:51:08.330" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T09:51:08.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10242" CreationDate="2013-07-04T22:14:43.663" Score="1" ViewCount="1261" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first time that I brewed with whole flower / leaf hops, my more-experienced homebrewing friend said that I should have more wort than usual at the start of the boil, because the dried leaves will reconstitute and absorb liquid.  I followed her directions, and I was pleased with the ultimate result.  Naturally, I forgot her exact directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oakbarrel.com/beermaking/hops_flower_chinook.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hops&lt;/a&gt; that I'm using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is having extra wort a proper adjustment for these types of hops, and if so, how much extra wort should I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T01:11:38.657" Title="Should I have extra wort for boil when using leaf hops?" Tags="|hops|boil|wort|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10239" CreationDate="2013-07-04T23:30:02.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whole leaves will absorb quite a bit of your wort during boil, but it really depends on what you are brewing.  Lower hopped beers (e.g. German and Belgian beers) = lower absorption, higher = higher absorption.  If you are brewing a double IPA (or Imperial IPA), you may want to account for absorption by increasing your final expected quantity.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've often taken the mindset that for every 5 gallons of homebrew I wish to finish with, I'll add 1 gallon, making a 5 gallon batch, 6 gallons in total.  10 gallon batches become 12 gallon batches.  The amount of hops and trub you end up with after primary and secondary may vary, but if you top off your fermentation bucket/carboy with 5 gallons, you will inevitably end up with less than 5 to go into kegs/bottles because of trub and yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's my personal rule of thumb, if I plan on using whole leaf hops, or a lot of hops... Or screw it, anything in general that's excessive in hops or ABV, and want 5 gallons total output from my brew, I'll brew 6 gallons.  Frankly, if I wind up with too much, and have to bottle off a few extra beers, or fill my keg to the point of overflowing, what a shame!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T23:30:02.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10239" CreationDate="2013-07-05T00:36:12.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dried leaf hops absorb 4-6 times their own weight in wort. So, if you add 4oz/100g of hops in the boil, that's in the region of 16-24fl.oz/400-600ml of wort that you could lose. Naturally,  the losses become more significant the more hops you add to the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most brewers intentionally overshoot slightly on the batch volume, e.g. target 5.5 or 6 gallons for a 5 gallon batch. If you're brewing a beer with 8oz/200g or more of hops, then use the numbers above to compute the additional volume needed to counter the losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T00:36:12.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10239" CreationDate="2013-07-05T01:11:38.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An experiment to determine wort absorption by whole leaf hope is described &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/leaf-hop-absorption-measured-241469/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The conclusion was that an ounce of hops absorbs 0.15 quarts of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T01:11:38.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10247" CreationDate="2013-07-05T12:44:41.697" Score="4" ViewCount="5619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an abundance of fresh black raspberries available and would like to try my hand at a cider using only black raspberries.  I'll be starting with a one gallon batch.  I am not sure how many berries to  use, and if I should add water or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Basic Plan&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Started a yeast culture using nottingham, berries, sugar and water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment in primary for 1 week&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move to secondary, straining out already fermented fruit, adding more fresh fruit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The berries are slightly tart, which I don't mind.  My only concern is will there be enough sugars to ferment enough? I am targeting an 4%-5% ABV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I ended up doing is mashing up about 3lbs of fresh berries and adding a can of apple juice to bring the gravity up to the level I was looking for.  Final reading was somewhere 1.045 - 1.050 which is about where I wanted to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The juice has a nice berry flavor with a hint of apple and is a little tangy.  Pitched yeast culture earlier today and it's fermenting nicely already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Results:*&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cider came out great.  I don't really taste much of the Apple, but the berries really come through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3506" LastEditorUserId="3506" LastEditDate="2013-08-22T00:42:11.840" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T13:22:58.873" Title="Berry cider using only berries" Tags="|cider|fruit|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10245" CreationDate="2013-07-05T14:31:33.990" Score="2" ViewCount="6899" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, i've see so much people here advising the use of PBW - Powdered Brewery Washer. I've seen some videos, and it seems to be a very good thing for cleaning everything in homebrew stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I live in Brasil, and it can be difficult or expensive to export some of this magic powder. The same situation is there for StarSan sanitizer. Here I use a solution of peracetic acid (peroxyacetic acid), but since i've lost my dealer i'm having troubles to find it in the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me precisely if the chemical compounds are known and how to make a Do It Yourself solution for both products buying the chemicals separately? The Homemade PBW in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daytondraft.org/brew-school/powdered-brewers-wash-pbw-homemade/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; recipe is safe? Thanks in advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastEditorUserId="3528" LastEditDate="2014-11-10T17:42:49.123" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T17:42:49.123" Title="Chemicals of PBW and StarSan - DIY solutions?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|starsan|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10244" CreationDate="2013-07-05T14:45:15.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well the active ingredient in PBW is 30% Sodium Metasilicate and the rest composed primarily of percarbonate (Oxyclean) and sodium bicarbonate. So the recipe you link to directly is not the same (which isn't to say it isn't a good cleaner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No access to iodophor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to sanitizer. My suggestion and goto when I don't have starsan is to use a 2 tbsp Bleach, 2tbsp Vinegar in 5 gal water to create a no-rinse solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/bleach-no-rinse-sanitizer-pinch-195477/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/bleach-no-rinse-sanitizer-pinch-195477/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T14:45:15.630" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10243" CreationDate="2013-07-05T15:02:44.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without a refractometer your only option is really to press enough berries to test gravity, which will get you ballpark on ABV. Then add sugar or dilute to your target ABV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would also then know how much juice to expect from (X)Lbs of berries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all fruit, sugar content and amount of juice is very much dependent on your specific berries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T15:08:08.493" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T15:08:08.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10243" CreationDate="2013-07-05T16:41:10.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There certainly will be sugars to ferment in blackberries.  What I'd recommend is press the berries, and take a reading using your hydrometer.  Try and shoot for something between 1.042 - 1.050.  That should get you between 4%-5% ABV.  If you don't get that high, which you should be able to do rather easily, toss in some brown sugar, or some corn sugar, and shake the container vigorously for a couple of minutes to mix it in, then take another reading (do a 1/4 cup at a time).  If you go over with your sugar additions, add a bit of water to dilute it.  It's a big experiment since your specific berries may yield more sugars than my berries, or anyone else's.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T16:41:10.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10250" CreationDate="2013-07-05T19:39:50.507" Score="3" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making my first lambic beer, a kriek lambic with a one month old, last week I dropped 1lb cherries. Today, I noticed this white thing in top:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QHnKS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;White and weird bug&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I concern about this? Or just let it go...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T09:20:44.567" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T09:20:44.567" Title="Is this white thing correct in kriek lambic?" Tags="|contamination|lambics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10249" CreationDate="2013-07-05T21:15:35.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's what a lambic is all about!  That's the pellicle forming.  Completely normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T21:15:35.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2302" CreationDate="2013-07-06T02:46:39.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to keep it simple and have found this to produce an excellent quality brew from kits.&#xA;Try to stay away from corn sugar except for priming.  If you spend a little more money and use 1 and ½ cans of hopped malt extract instead of 1 can  and 1 kg of corn sugar you will produce a superior 4%-5% beer with lots of body and head.  I use 1 can of Cooper Canadian blonde and ½ can of Coopers Cerveza, no corn sugar.  The Cerveza has hardly any flavor to it and can pretty much pass itself off as unhopped malt extract so the brew isn’t over flavoured. No siphoning off to a secondary carbouy either. Makes things way simpler and I found no difference in taste.  Leave it in the sealed primary with an airlock for two weeks at room temperature 70 degrees Fahrenheit, siphon it into a separate container and add 180 grams of Corn sugar diluted in some hot water to prime and bottle it.  Age a minimum of two weeks before drinking. Makes 23 liters.&#xA;My carboy is made out of a plastic pail that a wine kit was sold in.  They are same diameter as the universal 20l pail but a little taller and holds almost 30 L.  I perforated the lid to take a rubber stopper with an airlock by heating up an approx. 1”socket on my BBQ and with some pliers and took the hot socket and melted a perfectly round hole into the lid that came with the pail.  Don’t fill it too high with wort or the foam will bubble through the airlock and make a mess.  I usually only make 20 liters to allow for a lot of room for the head the yeast will produce while it is working and mix the 180 grams of priming sugar with 3 liters of hot water and add it to the 20 liters of wort which has been siphoned into a separate container at bottling time.&#xA;Things learned the hard way:&#xA;Use plastic bottles. You aren’t going to drink out of the bottle anyways because of the sediment and they are way more practical than glass.&#xA;Spend the money and buy the self-priming siphon contraption. Nothing worse than sucking on a hose. A scale for measuring priming sugar is really handy too and pretty cheap nowadays..&#xA;Never prime with malt extract as it will make your beer taste like crap.  Found out the hard way!&#xA;Cool your wort as fast as possible when first mixing ingredients.  If you have boiled all of your water to disinfect it let it cool to room temperature before adding the malt extract diluted in a few liters of hot water to it.  I can’t stress this enough.  You will have nasty tasting beer if you don’t.&#xA;Remember yeast will die if pitched into water too hot to put your hand into but will survive -40 no problem.&#xA;I have always just used household bleach as disinfectant for cleaning all equipment and bottles and have never had a sanitization problem. Cheap and effective.&#xA;Be patient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3590" LastActivityDate="2013-07-06T02:46:39.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10258" CreationDate="2013-07-06T23:14:30.743" Score="1" ViewCount="2140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I order everything from Northern Brewer and in my experience they have always suggested secondary fermentation, except for a hefeweizen that I have ready to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assumed this was because hefeweizens were supposed to be cloudy and secondary fermentation tends to reduce cloudiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally my bottles have a much larger layer of yeast in them then I have seen from my other beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just poured two bottles into two glasses. The first bottle I poured every last drop. The second bottle I poured until I noticed the yeast about to flow out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is the proper way to pour a hefeweizen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T04:10:32.250" Title="How to Correctly Pour a Hefeweizen" Tags="|hefeweizen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-06T23:21:54.407" Score="7" ViewCount="4535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a setup with &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10124/networked-connected-thermometer-for-measuring-water-in-swamp-cooler&quot;&gt;a raspberry pi and two DS18B20 digital thermometers&lt;/a&gt; that measure the temperature of the ambient air and the water in a swamp cooler that I place my fermentation chamber in. I was &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10193/going-below-optimum-yeast-temperatures-for-ale-in-particular&quot;&gt;alerted&lt;/a&gt; to the fact that measuring the swamp cooler water was a poor way to estimate the temperature of the actual fermenting beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ordered a third DS18B20 and I want to measure the actual beer temperature. I want to see if there are any correlation between the ambient, swamp water, and beer temperatures. In order to accomplish this I wish to have the DS18B20 measuring the beer directly -- I do not want to put an insulation material on the outside of the fermentation chamber (however, since this method is commonly done, I think I will order another probe and see how well it correlates to the probe in the beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like is ideas on how to best accomplish this while keeping everything air tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be using buckets as opposed to carboys for this experiment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to continually update the numbers to this if anyone else has any interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T20:16:19.110" Title="How Should I Place a Digital Thermometer into My Fermentation Chamber and Keep it Airtight?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|swamp-cooler|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10231" CreationDate="2013-07-07T03:14:12.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bottled my beer doing simply &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A quick rinse after drinking &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A quick rinse before sanitizing &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A quick rinse with star san, simply getting already diluted and prepared star san from a sealed vessel and soaking the bottles for 30 seconds to a minute and then draining them. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has worked out well for me. If you can, I would highly recommend getting one of these &lt;a href=&quot;https://torontobrewing.ca/products/bottle-rinser-avvinatore-vinator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://torontobrewing.ca/products/bottle-rinser-avvinatore-vinator&lt;/a&gt;. They make sanitizing bottles a quick one-two pump. I also like having a bottle rack to hang my bottles on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastEditorUserId="16361" LastEditDate="2018-08-03T12:41:08.583" LastActivityDate="2018-08-03T12:41:08.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5636" CreationDate="2013-07-07T03:31:06.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my bucket system the air lock fits snugly into an washer opening on the lid. When it comes time to putting it into the fridge I just remove the air lock and fill the washer hole with sticky tacky.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T03:31:06.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10261" CreationDate="2013-07-07T03:59:16.287" Score="7" ViewCount="16938" Body="&lt;p&gt;From reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7229/what-is-the-secondary-fermentation-debate?rq=1&quot;&gt;What is the secondary fermentation debate?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/88/if-when-to-move-to-secondary-fermentation/2835#2835&quot;&gt;If/When to move to secondary fermentation&lt;/a&gt; it appears that beer can be considered ready to consume (assuming force carbonation or a love of flat beer) after 8 days or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? This question &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2501/what-problems-can-i-have-if-i-bottle-just-one-week-fermented-beer&quot;&gt;What &amp;quot;problems&amp;quot; can I have if I bottle just one week fermented beer?&lt;/a&gt; attempts to answer what I am asking but the warning that the beer may be green and could use additional time in the fermenter is not quantified with any recommended time that the beer should be aged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T22:02:28.787" Title="What is the minimum time required to have drinkable beer?" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|aging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10260" CreationDate="2013-07-07T04:04:54.563" Score="4" ViewCount="11925" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to pick up a fridge for controlling temps. Are there any particulars I should know about when buying a fridge or is any old fridge good to go? I am also thinking of buying a chest freezer and I am interested in comparisons between getting a freezer and a fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on using a Johnson digital 2 stage temperature controller. I also plan on heating the unit with this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/BREWERS-EDGE-SPACE-HEATER-P518.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/BREWERS-EDGE-SPACE-HEATER-P518.aspx&lt;/a&gt; during the winter months. Ideally this setup should be able to accommodate both ales and lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastEditorUserId="3592" LastEditDate="2013-07-07T16:06:40.687" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:51:37.090" Title="Fridge recommendations for fermenting" Tags="|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10252" CreationDate="2013-07-07T04:10:32.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The instructions for Paulaner Hefe-Weizen specify &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse your glass with cold water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold your glass in an incline and pour carefully &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave some beer in the bottle and gently shake it to mix the yeast at the bottom with the remaining beer &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour the mixed beer and yeast into the glass and enjoy your Paulaner Hefe-Weizen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T04:10:32.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10253" CreationDate="2013-07-07T07:25:17.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that you're fermenting in buckets, then you need a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewershardware.com/Straight-Wall-Thermowells/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;straight-walled thermowell&lt;/a&gt;, like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NleAD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You put the thermowell through the lid of the bucket and down into the beer. The temperature probe slides inside the thermowell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tricky part is to then make an airtight seal with the bucket lid. You can either buy a stopper with a hole, or a grommet. The thermowell goes through the middle hole of the stopper or grommet. Both will require that you drill a larger hole into the lid of the bucket. The OD of the thermowell is 3/8&quot;, so this is the size of the hole in the stopper/grommet. Once inserted into the lid, the stopper/grommet will make an airtight seal both with the bucket and with the thermowell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-07-08T22:53:56.920" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T22:53:56.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10257" CreationDate="2013-07-07T17:49:00.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure of your location or budget, but Home Depot is selling a great &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/203547578?catalogId=10053&amp;amp;langId=-1&amp;amp;keyword=203547578&amp;amp;storeId=10051&amp;amp;N=5yc1v&amp;amp;R=203547578#.UdmoBUHVBCN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chest freezer for an awesome price&lt;/a&gt;.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/chest-freezer-specs-layouts-377518/index2.html#post4731051&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;discussion on Homebrew Talk&lt;/a&gt; where some kind individual took the time to diagram out all the possibilities for what you can do with it as far as buckets, carboys, kegs, CO2 tanks, everything (and other freezers if you settle for something else).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differences between the two are that, at least from what I've seen, you'll be hard pressed to find a 7 cubic foot fridge with the kind of floor space the above freezer has, especially at the price Home Depot is currently selling theirs at.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; As an aside, I found out about this from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrew Finds&lt;/a&gt;, they're constantly posting up deals on all things related to brewing (kits, supplies, appliances, books, everything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T17:49:00.147" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10256" CreationDate="2013-07-07T22:02:28.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, yes, your beer could be drinkable after only 8 days.  Meaning, nothing is going to stop you from going into bottles or kegs at the 8 day mark, and what you will be consuming will by definition be beer.  Hopefully fermentation completed, and you don't have bottle bombs.  Using the term &quot;green&quot; flavors is a very subjective term, for both personal tastes, as well as the beer style.  One of the big things that contribute to a beer's green flavor is diacetyl, which goes away around 3 days (give or take 1) after fermentation has completed.  You should not remove the beer of the yeast cake before the diacetyl rest has completed (meaning 3 days have passed since you hit your targeted gravity).  I like to assume 7-8 days for primary fermentation and diacetyl rest to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other ways people use the term &quot;green beer&quot;.  One example would be the style of beer dictates how long it should mature before being drinkable, or not green.  Extreme examples would be barley wines or Belgian quads.  These mature over the course of months, if not years, where as an IPA can be ready to drink (meaning kegged or bottling dates), dry-hopped and everything, inside of a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically, to answer the title question, it depends.  If you are brewing a hoppy IPA, you want to drink it fresh.  You could have it go into a bucket, and come out of the bucket for kegging or bottling in 2-3 weeks.  Another 2-3 weeks might stand to help, but if you want fresh, that could do it.  On the other hand, if you are brewing a stout for Christmas, you might want to get started now.  Stouts benefit from spending time in the bottle, and get much better over the course of a year if stored properly.  Each style is different, and will have different flavors depending on how old they are.  If you're looking for a quick fix, look for light alcohol, potentially high IBU (although IPA's or Pale Ales aren't the only kind), session beers.  Those will be what will most often be the quickest to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T22:02:28.787" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10318" CreationDate="2013-07-08T06:41:20.450" Score="3" ViewCount="1094" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I brew I think to myself, &quot;damn there has to be a better way to store all this tubing&quot;! Currently I have a drawer (twice the size of a file cabinet) where I throw my racking canes, tubing, and rando crap but it sure is unorganized. I do store my stock, yet to be used tubing coiled vertically in beer boxes which works great for that purpose (not having to access it often). figured I would see if anyone out there has a good ideas!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T22:13:38.407" Title="looking for a creative way to store all my tubing" Tags="|storage|tubing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10262" CreationDate="2013-07-08T15:14:30.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have an open wallspace?  Perhaps you could hang the tubing in a coil (and perhaps your canes, brushes, etc as well), as one might with tools in a garage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T15:14:30.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10253" CreationDate="2013-07-08T16:54:57.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the idea of taping the thermometer to outside of the bucket and adding a layer of insulation over top so it is more closely registering the beer temp and not the air temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T16:54:57.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2302" CreationDate="2013-07-08T17:20:01.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO, You can make better beer as well as a large commercial brewer from a kit. You may not be able to replicate a fine craft beer without close recipe &amp;amp; ingredient control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As 6 mo. old brewers (son &amp;amp; I) we've made some good beers - all from kits.  Several friends and relatives have skipped the commercial beers to drink ours and I am quite proud of that. we even came in first with a pale ale in our local hombrew club contest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My approach is to learn as much as I can about brewing while making one-step-at-a-time changes to our process. I've added partial-mash (easy), went full boil (a bit more complicated), just planning &amp;amp; testing temp control.  I think its important to take time to learn, brew/practice, taste/test &amp;amp; adjust and not try to do too much too fast.  It is way too easy to spend too much on this hobby for negligible changes in results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun and don't over stress the work unless you are planning on going commercial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="3453" LastEditDate="2013-12-10T19:11:38.117" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T19:11:38.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-08T21:28:58.990" Score="1" ViewCount="1063" Body="&lt;p&gt;I planted my hops next to the grape vines, gives the hops a good climb.  I'm afraid they might choke the grape vines I already have.  Can they grow together without problems ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T22:11:18.563" Title="Will hop plants choke grape vines" Tags="|hops|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10253" CreationDate="2013-07-09T09:40:12.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While not the most elegant, you can go through the lid in a larger fermentor without a thermowell. I put this together without wanting to incur the cost of a thermowell - so I used some electrical tape, an extra hole opposite the airlock and a rubber grommet. I patiently and accurately wrapped the tape around the sensor wire, building it out so it fit nice and snug in the grommet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I've done with my BrewPi setup; on my sixth brew now and things are still airtight. Next brew I'll be removing, cleaning down, and replacing the tape - the repeated soaking in sterilising solution means the tape has started to get a bit gummy as you can see in the picture - the top layer is starting to pull away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, perhaps not 100% ideal as the thermometer is directly in your beer, but has served me well this far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sVekH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3272" LastEditorUserId="3272" LastEditDate="2013-07-18T06:08:42.143" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T06:08:42.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9940" CreationDate="2013-07-09T13:00:17.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;HomeBrewFinds is one of my favorite sites for finding equipment like this. They track prices over time. One of the pages is a list of low-cost items to add to your Amazon purchase to get to $25 and qualify for cheap shipping.  That page is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/p/homebrewing-related-amazon-fillers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and contains several nice options including some aluminum restaurant quality pitchers for under $10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T13:00:17.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6965" CreationDate="2013-07-09T13:46:01.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Denny said it will reduce your vertical growth. However as the years go on you'll get more shoots coming up than you want to train if you are trying to keep things tidy and growth maximized. At that point you can compete with the birds and eat the hop shoots / tops yourself. If you google you'll find recipes for pickling them and when to harvest. Some of the chefs around here try to get out to the hopyards to pick tips from the extra bines before they are mowed down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully someone else can answer about whether you should mow down the current ones this year and hope for more shoots. I'm guessing that is better to do in later years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3600" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T13:46:01.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10243" CreationDate="2013-07-09T13:57:17.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did a blackberry cider with just blackberries not that long ago. Unfortunately don't remember the brix reading but guessing your raspberries have similar or more sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We froze the blackberries to help break them up and get the juice flowing. We then pressed them for the juice. If you know someone with a cider press you could use that but be warned the tiny seeds in these types of berries tend to clog up any cloth. You can also puree them and then push them through a strainer. Both are tedious but then you are maximizing the juice/sugars vs whole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We got about 3 gallons before I tired of pressing and fermented that straight (no additions) with an extra beer yeast I had. Kegged and force carbonated and turned out great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned about dry/ABV you can also ferment with a champagne yeast to get as much sugar fermented as you can and then back sweeten to the sweetness you want. I know a few commercial cider makers that do this mostly to ensure they hit the profile they want every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3600" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T13:57:17.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-09T16:27:58.603" Score="2" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kq3aY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Situation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never mind the two hop bags that didn't sink, those things are more buoyant than what I gave them credit for.  This is the beer in a secondary vessel.  I wanted to get it off the yeast cake so I could wash the yeast (after realizing it was 9% ABV, I didn't bother, a bit much for the yeast, I fear).  It's been in this bucket for one week today.  It doesn't resemble a pellicle that you'd get from bacteria, but I'm getting hints from others that it may in fact be something even less pleasant to see.  Any chance this is some sort of beer-&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.foodrenegade.com/pics/kombuchascoby/kombuchascoby2.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SCOBY&lt;/a&gt; in the making?  Maybe a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bacterial_cellulose&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bacterial Cellulose&lt;/a&gt;?  Last night when I tasted it, it didn't taste off.  It smells like beer, and the film broke apart rather easily at this point.  Maybe it's my mind convincing my taste buds and nostrils it's good and I don't have my first contamination after years of brewing without a single batch gone bad.  Any insight would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full disclosure, I believe when I brewed it, I went overboard on the fining agents, adding an adequate amount of Irish moss as well as one whirlfloc tablet.  Never tried both at once before, but figured I'd see how much of the protein I could get to settle out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:30:18.210" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:30:18.210" Title="Contamination (SCOBY/Acetobactor) or possible over-use of a fining agent?" Tags="|contamination|bacteria|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10200" CreationDate="2013-07-09T16:54:03.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;BYO did a kegging guide that may be helpful. &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/store/byo-special-issues/guide-to-kegging&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/store/byo-special-issues/guide-to-kegging&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2013-07-09T17:36:36.020" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T17:36:36.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10262" CreationDate="2013-07-10T01:01:33.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mounted a garden hose tidy to the wall - it's semicircular and not too deep. I hang all the tubes from that. It allows them to drip dry and gives easy access. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It's late here, I'll post a picture during daylight.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T01:01:33.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10284" CreationDate="2013-07-10T15:30:59.767" Score="1" ViewCount="2725" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fairly new to kegging my homebrew. I have successfully used the &quot;Saturation Over Time&quot; method and was wondering if I could speed it up a bit by injecting gas through the draw line rather than the gas line since it would be injected at the bottom of the draw tube rather than on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this approach make any sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3602" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T22:12:19.917" Title="Faster carbonation by injecting CO2 into the Draw line" Tags="|kegging|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10275" CreationDate="2013-07-10T15:57:45.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it seems as if that would speed things up, it really doesn't.  I've tried carbing through both the gas in and beer out tubes and found no difference in the rate of CO2 absorption.  OTOH, there's nothing wrong with carbing through the beer out, so feel try it each way and draw your own conclusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T15:57:45.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10278" CreationDate="2013-07-10T16:47:23.337" Score="2" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not have a refractometer and am considering buying one. My own concern is how precise you can get the readings. How many brix are you plus or minus when you do a reading? Is it as precise as a hydrometer, or close to? Do you still use a hydrometer for accurate readings before and after fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T05:24:21.307" Title="How precisely can you read your refractometer" Tags="|refractometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10277" CreationDate="2013-07-10T17:00:14.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well a refractometer is very accurate for measuring OG. you do have to calibrate it using a wort of known gravity, but once that's done You are good to go with the refractometer. I am equally confident in my refractometer and hydrometer readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The refractometer is less useful for FG, due to the alcohol present in the solution. There are conversion calculations you can perform but generally speaking you still need a hydrometer for 100% accurate FG readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said I think a refractometer is a great tool for a homebrewer to have especially if you are all grain. A good refractometer allows you to check for conversion and check the gravity of hot wort without temperature correction and without having to pull a large sample out into a hydrometer test tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T17:00:14.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10277" CreationDate="2013-07-10T17:03:57.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refractometers are best used for pre-fermentation readings.  I use mine to get pre and post boil gravities and then use a hydrometer to check on fermentation.  The nice thing about using them on brew day is you only need a few drops which cools much faster than a full hydrometer sample.  Many refractometers have automatic temperature correction, and hydrometers come with an adjustment chart for temperatures in a 10 or 20 degree (F) range - but the best accuracy is attained when your sample is at the temperature at which your instrument was calibrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use them on beer but need to apply a correction formula because alcohol throws off the reading.  Here's an article on refractometer use and includes the formula for alcohol adjustment: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2013/04/24/using-your-refractometer-correctly-for-maximum-accuracy-in-home-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2013/04/24/using-your-refractometer-correctly-for-maximum-accuracy-in-home-brewing/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="738" LastEditorUserId="738" LastEditDate="2013-07-11T05:24:21.307" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T05:24:21.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10257" CreationDate="2013-07-10T19:49:07.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Scott in that chest freezers are generally the most efficient, inexpensive and roomiest way to go, and they're designed go down to freezing temps, which is good for lagering and cold crashing. But to provide an alternative answer for those with space restrictions, I use a used wine fridge I got off craiglist. It's large and deep enough to accommodate one carboy, even with the compressor bump and maintains ale temps very easily. It gets down into the 40s or 50s I think, but I haven't tried lagering in it. I already have a chest freezer that I converted to a kegerator (keezer), and I didn't have room for another one in my apt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T19:49:07.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6689" CreationDate="2013-07-10T19:57:17.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding a computer fan inside my chest freezer really helped with the humidity issues. I use one of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00080G0BK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;USB fans&lt;/a&gt;. It has a flat cable so it fits fine in the closed door with no need to drill a hole anywhere. Also they're much worse in the warmer months when there's more humidity in the air and haven't been a problem when it's cooler outside. In the summer I occasionally mop the bottom with a towel that I hold onto with a pair of long bbq tongs. Haven't needed the Damp Rid, though lots of people recommend it. Damp Rid is calcium chloride - it's non-reusable. You can get buckets of reusable desiccants like silica gel on industrial supply sites like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-desiccants/=nkbqfu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;McMaster Carr&lt;/a&gt; or Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T19:57:17.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8063" CreationDate="2013-07-10T20:15:01.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an HDPE (food-grade) bucket I bought at a home improvement store that I keep filled with an Oxy-Clean solution.  Whenever I pour a beer, I rinse out the bottle in the sink then stick it in the bucket.  When the bucket gets full (every couple of weeks), I spend maybe ten minutes rinsing the bottles and sticking them on a bottle tree (the labels usually fall off, although I do have to scrub the adhesive residue off with a green scrubby pad).  Once they're dry, I stick them in a box upside down.  On bottling day, I just pull out a box and give each bottle a couple quick squirts from the Vinator and stick it on the bottle tree.  Then it's bottle, cap, and back in the box (right-side up this time).  All told, I spend maybe an hour per batch cleaning bottles, spread across two or three weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T20:15:01.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8063" CreationDate="2013-07-10T22:58:01.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of good points, so instead of repeating, I'll simply add the most ingenious modification to my bottling brush I could have made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DubLG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T22:58:01.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10275" CreationDate="2013-07-10T23:13:35.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Injecting gas into the beer out line makes little difference - the size of the bubbles are not small enough to dissolve any significant amount of gas, so they just float to the top and become part of the headspace just as if you'd used the gas in line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to speed up carbonation is to first chill the keg to 41F/5C or cooler, and set the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; regulator to 30psi. Connect the gas, and roll the keg back and forth on it's side for a minute. Then disconnect the gas and continue rocking for a further minute or two. The cold beer combined with the rocking motion under fairly high pressure gets the carbon dioxide into solution much quicker. The second rocking without gas helps equalize the pressure. You can then dial the regulator to the target PSI and continue rocking. You stop when you don't hear any more gas entering the keg, usually in just a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave the keg for a couple of hours and then it's ready for serving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One downside to this is that you have to either drink the beer quickly (within a week or two max) or take steps to purge the keg of oxygen. The shaking will dissolve any oxygen in the keg into the beer cause it to stale quicker. But it's a winner if you need to carb in a hurry and are sure the beer will be consumed quickly (e.g. a party.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got 4 kegs ready for a party this weekend that I'm carbing up like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T23:13:35.223" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10277" CreationDate="2013-07-10T23:21:35.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the question, you can read a refractometer to 0.25 brix, assuming it's got 0.25 brix calibrations. It's harder to get more accurate than that with the typical handheld refractometer since the lines are quite close together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EMM6J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Refracometer scale&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-07-10T23:34:38.613" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T23:34:38.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10275" CreationDate="2013-07-10T23:25:01.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming in my answer that by using the slow method of carbonation, that you hook up the gas line to your keg while it's chilled and let it sit for a week, gauging how much PSI you feed in based off something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this chart&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;If I am correct in my assumption, there is a method that I've found is more timely.  Not necessarily as quick as mdma's (which I've done quite a bit as well), but it's safer in that you have time to catch any chance of over-carbonation, rather than doing it all in 5 minutes, crossing your fingers and hoping it won't pour nothing but foam.&#xA;Take your keg, chill it to 43F/5C, and hook up your CO2 tank at 30PSI.  Let it sit on that PSI, at that temperature for 32-48 hours.  Take samples at 24, 32, and if need be, 48 hours.  It'll gush like crazy at that PSI (you only need a sip), so let the head settle, then sip it to get the mouth feel.  If it is flat (don't let the head fool you, the body can be entirely different), let it sit another 12 hours.  It's rare that it'll get to 48 hours before it's carbonated.  Once you're satisfied, dial the pressure back to serving pressure, let off the excess gas, and you're good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T23:25:01.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10301" CreationDate="2013-07-10T23:42:05.060" Score="3" ViewCount="2730" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best method for calibrating a refractometer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using my cheapo refracto to take pre- and post-boil readings, but I also check with a hydrometer because I don't trust it yet. The two devices generally agree but usually the refracto is a couple of gravity points higher. The hydrometer has been checked as OK with distilled water and temperature adjustment is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have calibrated the refracto with distilled water as per the included instructions, but I'm wondering if there's more to it than that. Should I concoct a sugar solution of a predictable gravity to check non-zero calibration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T23:36:40.227" Title="How to calibrate a refractometer" Tags="|refractometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10290" CreationDate="2013-07-11T03:47:17.093" Score="1" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;We boil DME and water to make a solution with an OG of 1.040, pitch the yeast and place it on a stir plate for a couple of days to make our yeast starters. After this, it is commonly suggested to place the flask in the refrigerator for 12 or more hours to flocculate the yeast, thereby allowing us to pour off the DME wort so our real wort does not get cut with the yeast-starter/DME wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this not inactivate or cold crash the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fridge measures roughly 30F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T13:48:34.883" Title="Why Wouldn't Chilling a Yeast Starter Cold Crash or Inactivate the Yeast?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-07-11T21:42:11.850" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10287" CreationDate="2013-07-11T05:02:13.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know that's the best way to calibrate it.  I keep two pipettes handy on brew day, one for samples and one for calibrating.  I re-calibrate before each reading and it usually needs little or no adjustment.  Once in a while it will be off quite a bit but I haven't figured out what knocks it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="738" LastEditorUserId="738" LastEditDate="2013-07-11T16:23:54.030" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T16:23:54.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10288" CreationDate="2013-07-11T13:48:34.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does cold crash them, reducing activity to force them to flocculate and sediment out of solution.  It does passivate them, generally shutting down their metabolism.  It does not inactivate or destroy them, however; the yeast are still alive, just dormant.  Bring them back up to pitching temperature and introduce them to fresh wort, and they will reproduce and ferment as appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T13:48:34.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10293" CreationDate="2013-07-11T14:50:27.523" Score="3" ViewCount="623" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recent brew (#2) is well carbonated, but has little head to it when poured (and what's there dissipates quickly). Is it over carbonated? Too much priming sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I am used to seeing a strong head on bottled craft brews from the store, so does the amount of head mean anything about the brew itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Homebrew #2&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/cascade-wheat-1-gallon-recipe-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Northern Brewer&quot;&gt;American Wheat 1 Gallon Extract Recipe Kit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Conditioned with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/nb-fizz-drops-8-oz.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fizz Drops&lt;/a&gt; for ~ 2 1/2 weeks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 drop per 12-16 oz bottle, 2 drops per 22 oz / 750mL bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3605" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T16:11:43.163" Title="Fizzy with no head?" Tags="|carbonation|first-time-brewer|small-batch|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10296" CreationDate="2013-07-11T14:55:48.440" Score="5" ViewCount="4354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed a raspberry wheat w/ ~2.5 lbs of frozen (organic) raspberries added to the secondary. I waited about 23 days after adding the berries to bottle, and when I went down to the basement to get ready for bottling day, I found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xZqx7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bright white stuff on the color-drained raspberries&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bright white stuff growing on the tops of a few of the raspberries. I had checked it maybe 24-48 hours prior, and there wasn't any that I noticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sniff test came back fine, so I was just super careful when racking not to disturb any of it (since none of it was in the beer). Taste test from the bottling bucket was also nothing surprising (pretty good, actually), and the SG was 1.011 (including priming sugar, 5.5oz of cane in 2c of water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is this stuff? Should I be worried about my bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Day eight of bottle-conditioning at ~72˚F, and I just vented + dumped nine bottles that looked roughly like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TnqGt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;moldy bubbles?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be equally difficult to see, but I expect this must be &quot;pellicle&quot; forming. Some bottles had white-covered bubbles, and others had some hazy stuff climbing up the neck from the beer line. All were pretty fizz-tastic when I popped the caps (just a little to let the pressure out at first), and one smelled particularly rubbery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other ~36 bottles looked good. Notably, I think it was the last few bottles out of the bottling bucket that were the worst; I had one half-bottle (the last few ounces out) that I capped out of curiosity; he fizzed worst than the rest. There were &quot;floaties&quot; in a few as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2725" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T09:17:08.390" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T09:19:25.030" Title="White Stuff -- is it bad?" Tags="|fruit|contamination|wheat-beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10291" CreationDate="2013-07-11T15:21:46.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check that your glass is totally clean and free from oils and detergent. I doubt the beer lost it's head because of overcarbonation (and I don't think you've overcarbonated.) Even if you did, wheat beers tend to be served with medium-high to high levels of carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head stability is produced from proteins and hop acids. Looking at the recipe in the kit, there should be plenty of each - especially so being a wheat beer. So, I'd check the glass to make sure it's completely clean and free from oils and soaps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-07-11T16:11:43.163" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T16:11:43.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10295" CreationDate="2013-07-11T19:17:06.450" Score="10" ViewCount="60968" Body="&lt;p&gt;During my last small batch brew, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/cascade-wheat-1-gallon-recipe-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Wheat from Northern Brewer&lt;/a&gt;, I came home to find that the foam in the 1 gallon carboy had overflowed the three-piece air lock (which was a mess to clean out). I have read that if it looks like it may bubble over, one can use a hose to create an airlock using a bowl of water. However, it overflowed while I was away, and I did not see it coming. I changed out the airlock for another one that I had, and let it proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is there a way to avoid this? Was there possibly too much wort in the carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) What are the possible effects on fermentation process, if any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3605" LastEditorUserId="2725" LastEditDate="2014-06-18T13:06:23.780" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T18:54:28.027" Title="How do I avoid airlock foam overflow? Does it affect the fermentation process?" Tags="|fermentation|airlock|foam|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2013-07-11T19:35:17.043" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Headspace in the carboy is nice to avoid this, but ultimately, a blow-off tube is the answer.  By switching out the airlocks, you did the right thing, and ultimately, as long as you didn't let it sit exposed for a long period of time (in the realm of 20+ minutes), the likelihood of infection isn't high.  Plus, the krausen (foamy stuff that sits on top of the wort while fermenting) acts as a protective layer from bacteria.  By the time the krausen dies down, the bacteria will come in contact with alcohol, lessening the chances for infection (hopefully).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplest way to do this, take apart a 3-piece airlock, determine the diameter of the inner tube that feeds into the bucket (I don't know the diameter off the top of my head), and get about 3-4 feet of tubing that size.  Plug one end of the top of that inner plastic tube of the airlock, fill a bucket, or some form of container with sanitizer, and put the loose end in the sanitizer completely submerged.  Now, if anything comes out the top, it simply goes into the container, no bucket/carboy-bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: Visited the LHBS today on the way home to get my next recipe.  You want half-inch (either thin or thick wall, both will work) hosing, at least 3 feet, ideally 4, for your blow off tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, this is very common.  The investment of a blow off is well worth the cost.  Seeing yeast shoot out of the carboy (ideally through a blow-off tube, but any way works, albeit a bit messy without) is one of the most fascinating parts of brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-07-12T05:43:24.053" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T05:43:24.053" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10292" CreationDate="2013-07-11T20:53:31.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first when I looked at it, I thought the bright white stuff you mentioned was actually glare from the lights with the distortion of the carboy, and that you were talking about the raspberries, which have since lost most of their color and look more like brains, if anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I know what you're talking about, that is definitely mold/bacteria, with a very high chance that it has gotten into the beer.  How well did you rinse the raspberries before putting them in?  Regardless, yes, I would be concerned, but, there is always hope.  Here's what I would do, given the supplies I have on hand.  I would take a large beer cooler (or two) or anything that can contain liquid and withstand a bottle exploding in it, and store the bottles (upright) in the beer cooler for conditioning.  In case they turn into bombs, the cooler will act as a container to keep all the glass and beer from blasting everywhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time you want to drink one, carefully take one out, and examine it for a pellicle at the beer line.  Use a flashlight to look at it to see if there appears to be a sort of film resting on the top of the beer (a ring around the beer line is a good hint in this case, but is not always a clear indication).  If there is a pellicle, the batch should be considered entirely bad.  At that point, store the beer as cold as you can without freezing it to slow down any further fermentation. Try and crack one open in a wide open area (back porch, bath tub, somewhere with head space and can get wet.  For protective measures, wear safety glasses and gloves with minimal skin exposure in case it's worst case scenario.  If it gushes out, geyser or volcano style, and you're sure you added the correct amount of priming sugar, that's a clear indication as well that it is contaminated(&quot;infected&quot;).  You can try tasting it, but I can almost guarantee you won't want to once you get a smell of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few side notes worth mentioning.  There is a chance that, like you said, the bacteria may not have come in contact with the beer.  The bacteria looks minimal (at this point), so that may explain the lack of a noticeable taste or smell, or the bacteria could have gotten in just enough to screw up the batch.  There's no way to tell at this point.  I will caution though, if one goes off in the cooler, pitch the rest.  You don't want to risk the damage, especially if you have kids, pets, eyes, anything that could suffer from glass shrapnel should you happen to have one go off when tipping it over in the fridge by accident.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, clean everything super-thoroughly.  Your carboy, racking cane, even take apart the spigot to your bottle bucket and bleach/clean the snot out of everything.  Bacteria is known to linger in plastic, so make sure you do everything possible to prevent it from coming back in your next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fruit in secondary is a great thing, but it also carries risks since it isn't boiled/sanitized.  This is that negative outcome of that risk.  The biggest thing I want to stress though is to not let this get you down.  Seriously, don't let this be the end.  Contamination is not common, even in fruit beers it isn't as common as some people may lead you to believe.  You just have to make sure you have good sanitation practices.  Next time, try pureeing and pasteurizing the fruit before adding it.  You'll get more flavor from the puree, and it'll be free of any bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry your 4th batch turned out like that.  Hopefully the other three were good enough to keep you in the game, I can imagine that seeing an entire batch go bad has to be demoralizing, but there's a lot of good beer to come down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T09:19:25.030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T09:19:25.030" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10292" CreationDate="2013-07-11T21:19:15.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's definitely contamination, but I doubt it's made contact with the beer, since most contaminats at this stage feed on oxygen and perish in alcohol, plus it's just a little on top of the fruit. Since the beer smells and tastes fine now then rack from beneath, chill and force carbonate (if you have kegs), or prime as usual if you bottle-carbonate, then chill to prevent any further growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a wheat beer you should be drinking this young - within a few weeks at most. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time you can warm the fruit to 170&amp;deg;F/76&amp;deg;C which will kill the majority of contaminants without driving off much aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this one looks worse than it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-07-11T21:25:24.333" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T21:25:24.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2013-07-12T16:20:03.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scott's answer is correct.  And I've done this as well, both on my last batch, and the previous one (in which it actually overflowed twice).  The blowoff tube is the best approach; I misplaced mine, so I had to do without, and like yourself, I just changed it out and went along my way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could prevent this all-together by leaving more headroom in the carboy, or making a beer with a less fervent fermentation process.  But what's the fun in that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not expecting anything bad in my batches where this happened.  Unless there was beer sitting in there for an extended amount of time, I would think it will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T16:20:03.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10305" CreationDate="2013-07-12T17:28:16.583" Score="3" ViewCount="12985" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two days ago (on Wednesday night) I made a yeast starter on my stir plate. I purchased a thermometer probe that I &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10253/how-should-i-place-a-digital-thermometer-into-my-fermentation-chamber-and-keep-i&quot;&gt;intend on modifying a fermentation bucket with&lt;/a&gt;, which I thought it would arrive today (Friday) but UPS feels like delivering it on Monday instead. I was going to brew tomorrow on Saturday after about 72 hours on the stir plate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just let the yeast starter do its thing all the way until Monday afternoon (about 4 1/2 days total), and if not, should I just &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4902/how-long-can-a-yeast-starter-survive-in-the-fridge&quot;&gt;place it in the refrigerator which apparently lasts a long time&lt;/a&gt;? Or would it be better for me to step up on Saturday morning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-07-13T14:57:00.373" Title="How long can a yeast starter stay on a stir plate before pitching?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3000" CreationDate="2013-07-12T18:52:07.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;People will tell you that bugs won't grow in raw honey, and they're right.  The bad news is that they're still there and they'll grow just fine when you add water to make the must.  (Let's remember people, there are bee parts in this stuff...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pitch well with a very large yeast population, it is possible to have a fine ferment and a fine mead because of population pressure (large populations can cooperatively out-compete other bugs).  This can be preferable because you won't lose your aromatics due to volatilization during heat pasteurization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you're unsure about your pitch or you don't like to take risks you can also sterilize your must following standard techniques (plenty of which are suggested here in other answers, or in easy to find online resources).  It's also worth noting that a heat process can also help produce a clearer mead (I'm guessing due to denatured proteins), but it's not strictly necessary for a crystal clear mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Addendum:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always used raw honey, but I've had mild infections that are producing off-flavors in my mead.  I'm currently looking into processes that will let me have the best of both worlds.  My next experiments will be:&#xA; - Long term (6+ hours) closed bottle pasteurization of my honey at low temperatures.&#xA; - UV sterilization of must (utilizing an unfiltered UV light source and an even longer time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3610" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T18:52:07.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10287" CreationDate="2013-07-12T23:36:40.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The July/August 2013 edition (vol 36/no 4) of Zymurgy magazine has the answer. Sean Terrill's article, &quot;Using a Refractometer&quot; pp. 49-53 details pretty much everything you want to know about refractometers in brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A two-point calibration is recommended:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water at 0.0°Bx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A reference sucrose solution, for example 20.0°Bx&#xA;(20.0g table sugar in 80.0g water)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, to compensate for the fact that wort is a complex combination of sugars, the refractometer reading should be divided by a wort correction factor (WCF). Take a reading of the same wort sample with a calibrated hydrometer then divide the refractometer reading by the hydrometer reading to generate the WCF. The formula in degrees Brix would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;X = Refractometer / (Refractometer/Hydrometer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The WCF will likely range from 1.02 to 1.06. The article implies that this doesn't need to be done on every brew (thus blunting the point of using a refractometer), but establishing the WCF for a particular recipe or style that you brew will be a good ballpark for similar worts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article also notes that refractometers with automatic temperature correction (ATC) are calibrated for a specified ambient temperature range, likely 10-30°C (50-86°F); check the device's documentation. Ambient temperatures outside of this range will affect the reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good article, full of detail, and I recommend reading it if you use a refractometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T23:36:40.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-13T11:13:11.077" Score="1" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just beginning to experiment with malting wheat (raised on my families farm here in KS), and I'd like to use that wheat to brew a lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my self-concocted first recipe that I'm basing this experiment off of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For a 5gal batch)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;8lbs of my own home malted wheat &#xA;5lbs rice syrup solids&#xA;American Lager Yeast&#xA;1.5oz Hallertau hops. (1oz bittering, .5oz aroma)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I brew this without adding barley?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated, as I am entering into &quot;new brewing territory&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3612" LastEditorUserId="3811" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T20:33:48.617" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T15:27:10.510" Title="How realistic is a non-barley lager?" Tags="|ingredients|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10299" CreationDate="2013-07-13T14:38:59.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have left starters sitting out for varying amounts of time with no problems. The longest I have left one was a 5L batch that I completely spaced out and it sat for five or six days. I removed the tin foil covering the top and gave it a sniff, smelled fine. I placed it in the fridge for a few days to settle, then decanted and added another 4L of 1.034 wort and let it go again. I used that to brew three batches and all have turned out great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it comes down to primarily sanitation and to a lesser extent the ratio of yeast to liquid. If everything is sanitized properly, what really is the difference between the starter and a batch of brew - aside from the acid in hops? And secondly if you have a lot of yeast in a relatively low amount of liquid, any nasties that might infect the starter are going to have a much harder time gaining a foothold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, all that said: Normally if I'm making a starter that I'm not going to use immediately I'll put it in the fridge until I'm ready to use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3614" LastActivityDate="2013-07-13T14:38:59.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10299" CreationDate="2013-07-13T14:57:00.373" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the yeast type, and the OG of your starter wort (hopefully around the 1.040 range), it should complete fermentation within a very short time.  I just did a starter using WLP090, and it completed fermentation within a day, so that can be used as a &quot;shortest possible time&quot;, whereas others might take 48 - 72 hours at most.  At that point, there isn't much need to keep it on the stir-plate.  Refrigerating will help the yeast flocculate to the bottom of your starter.  What this will do is take the healthy yeast and slowly cool them down to settle at the bottom of your flask/container.  As long as they don't sit in your refrigerator for an extended period of time (read that as 1-2+ weeks), they're still plenty healthy and ready to go.  If they are resting for that long, or longer, doing another yeast starter may be necessary before pitching.  The added bonus of refrigeration vs. straight pitching the entire flask/container is that you can decant some of the wort as to not effect your OG if you have over a liter of a starter.  Simply take it out of the fridge on brew day, let it set, and before you pitch, pour out down yo about 400-500 ml of the wort, swirl the container to get a nice slurry, and pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, you're fine.  Keep it sanitized, and you'll be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: If you do go the refrigeration route, it may be best to cork the container, or put an airlock on it just to be safe.  I've used everything from saran wrap to an airlock, the point is you don't want anything to creep in since it is a very low-gravity solution.  It's more susceptible to infections than a moderate gravity beer would be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-07-13T14:57:00.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-14T16:28:56.103" Score="3" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;My hibiscus wine recipe says to ferment to dryness before racking to the secondary carboy. It's been almost a month, and the bubbling has died down. Is it time to rack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3618" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T17:01:09.890" Title="First time wine maker question" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10307" CreationDate="2013-07-14T16:58:05.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a month it's more than likely fermented out. The way to know for sure is to take a sample using a wine thief and check the gravity using a hydrometer. If it's around 0.995 then the wine has completed fermenting. But if you don't have the equipment, then racking now to secondary should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T16:58:05.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-14T17:07:06.093" Score="1" ViewCount="3112" Body="&lt;p&gt;we are fairly new to brewing and are attempting to make a Raspberry Tart Ale (based on a wheat DME). The beer has been in the carboy for 8 days now and is very, very murky and there aren't any bubbles in the airlock. Is this normal? This brew is kit based and the instructions say that we should be thinking about bottling in the next few days, but other brewers I have spoken to said something about secondary fermentation.... help!?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3620" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T04:41:23.310" Title="Murky beer, no bubbles in airlock?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|airlock|clarity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10311" CreationDate="2013-07-14T17:22:29.450" Score="3" ViewCount="1443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been slowly improving my bottling, thank goodness.  I make a pot of warm / hot StarSan, and fill each bottle with the mixture, then after a while, turn each bottle upside down in the StarSan pot.  Then a few minutes later, I drain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I have ended up with a dense layer of small bubbles, about 1-2&quot; high, at the bottom of my 750mL bottles.  I know that leaving &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; StarSan behind is OK, but I wonder if I'm not doing a thorough job of draining?  And if not, how do I get a clean drain without rinsing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this question and answer about &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10231/in-depth-cleaning-glass-bottles&quot;&gt;bottling&lt;/a&gt;, and this answer about &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/6990/3466&quot;&gt;foam&lt;/a&gt;, but I feel like it doesn't quite answer my question.  Perhaps I'm being paranoid, and should just relax and have a homebrew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wrote this question immediately after cleaning my bottles today.  Ten minutes later, the foam has settled down to about 1/2&quot;; much less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T17:59:56.890" Title="After cleaning a bottle, what's an acceptable amount of leftover StarSan bubbles?" Tags="|cleaning|bottle|foam|starsan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10310" CreationDate="2013-07-14T17:42:50.360" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about the foam, as far as I remember Charlie Tally, Head Chemist at 5 Star, has said that the starsan is broken down by the yeast. Also, when you fill the bottle most of the foam comes out as a &quot;StarSan Worm&quot;, so there's relatively little left in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've not had any problems with head in your beer then your existing methods are working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T17:42:50.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10309" CreationDate="2013-07-14T18:23:41.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of two possible scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The beer has finished fermenting, and you just didn't notice it. If it's relatively warm (say, around 70&lt;sup&gt;o&lt;/sup&gt; F.), a regular strength beer can finishing fermenting in as little a 2 or 3 days. Once the yeast is done consuming sugars, you won't see much activity in the air lock. In general, air-lock activity is a poor indicator of fermentation. If your fermentation vessel has a leaky lid, for example, you might not see any bubbles in the airlock. If the beer is, in fact, done fermenting you should be able to see evidence of this. There would be a ring of crusty gunk above the surface of the beer. This is the remains of the krausen that formed during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The beer never started fermenting. It would be good to know what sort of yeast you used, and how you added it. If the yeast was very old, it might fail to ferment the beer. If the wort was too warm when you added the yeast, that could kill it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could take a sample of wort and measure its specific gravity to see if fermentation has started. After 8 days, I would expect the gravity to be near or at the target final gravity. That being said, by taking a sample you run a small risk of contaminating the wort, but it's the only way to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think that the beer has not started fermenting, I would suggest that you immediately pitch another packet of yeast. Check the manufacture date of the yeast to be sure it's not past its prime, and follow the instructions on the packet. Typically, this involves re-hydrating in warm, but not hot, water before pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-07-16T19:01:47.480" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T19:01:47.480" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10314" CreationDate="2013-07-15T18:20:51.767" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just starting to get into yeast management and in every instance I can find describing how to rinse yeast people are boiling water, letting it cool and continuing from there. What would be the difference if I were using a store bought gallon and sanitized jars? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T18:34:47.437" Title="Yeast rinsing with store bought water?" Tags="|reusing-yeast|yeast-washing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10313" CreationDate="2013-07-15T18:34:47.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary intent of boiling the water is to kill any bacteria or other critters that may be living in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are confident that the water you buy at the store is of the same purity, then by all means use it. If not, then you should boil the water regardless of source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T18:34:47.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-15T19:00:25.160" Score="2" ViewCount="15398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pitched English Ale yeast (white labs) around 80 deg, not realizing it was that warm. Relative temp in the room is 68, but wort will not cool down below 80....strange! Its been about 24 hours at 80deg. Yeast has been in wort for 5.5hr&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be worried about the temp of the wort, and should I try to re-pitch more ale yeast if no head or CO2 kicks up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3622" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T04:12:24.067" Title="Pitched Yeast at 80-85 deg. Problem?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|wort|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10315" CreationDate="2013-07-15T19:43:11.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should you be worried?  Yes and no.  That temp is not high enough to hurt the yeast, so if it hasn't started fermenting yet it will soon.  But that temp is WAY too high to make good beer.  The usual effects are lots of fruity esters and fusel alcohols.  Neither of which make for a pleasant beer drinking experience.  At this point you can try to cool it down and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T19:43:11.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10315" CreationDate="2013-07-15T20:31:07.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your wort is probably reading 80 degrees, when the rest of the room is 68, at least in part because fermentation is exothermic.  I don't know whether that would explain all 12 degrees of difference, but you should expect your wort to be warmer than ambient temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I think you should follow Denny's recommendation and attempt to cool the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T20:31:07.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10262" CreationDate="2013-07-15T22:13:38.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mounted an empty, plastic speaker wire spool to the wall in my brewing closet (room under the stairs where I kept all my brewing equipment) to hang all the tubing on.  I made sure to mount it high enough on the wall that I didn't have to coil the tubing around the spool.  This allowed the tubing to dry well and kept off the ground and out of my way.  The spool was deep enough that I was able to lay all the sections of tubing side by side so they weren't stacked on top of each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3624" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T22:13:38.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1431" CreationDate="2013-07-16T04:07:18.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked this up in my Everything Homebrew book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skunky&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cause&lt;/em&gt;: interaction between isomerized alpha acids and UV light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How to avoid&lt;/em&gt;: Store beer away from the light in brown bottles or firmly &#xA;  boxed against exposure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example:&lt;/em&gt; Green bottle lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So maybe the simplest way to fix it is store the brew in a box when bottle conditioning and cover it during fermentation. Or perhaps try an Ale as they seem to have more resistance to light issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3625" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2013-07-16T17:28:32.223" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T17:28:32.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10315" CreationDate="2013-07-16T06:23:08.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For bread making and other uses of yeast &quot;blood heat&quot; is used. That is, a temperature at the same temp as body temperature. So not a problem for the yeast. Pitching warm for an hour or two may help the yeast propagate quickly. But it'll make some strange nasty flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ale temperature needs to be about five degrees less (about 68 give or take a few degrees) and lager much less (50). If your fermenter is a glass carboy or something like that you can dunk it in a clean trash can or bath tub full of ice water to get the temp down. Aim for two or three degrees cooler than your target and then pull it out and put it in a cool dark place away from the light. Like a closet. If you keep your house at 68. It should be ok for ale as the fermentation will bring it back up a few degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for fermentation signs with in 24 to 48 hours and if there are signs then you won't need to re-pitch your yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3625" LastEditorUserId="3625" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T04:12:24.067" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T04:12:24.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10309" CreationDate="2013-07-16T08:00:47.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your discription it sounds like it never started fermenting or it stopped. Were there signs of fermentation before? In the first two days especially? Did you take a gravity measurement? Measure again and see if your measurement is close. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heavy weight beers and lagers sometimes need more yeast and I keep my brews a week or more after signs of fermentation stops. You may have nothing to worry about. Check your gravity, check your seal at the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there weren't bubbles, or signs of fermentation then maybe it didn't start or it stopped early which it can for various reasons. I would recommened making a starter and re-pitching. Starters take a day or more to make... Boil a mixure of 1 quart water, 3.2 ounces DME, 1 pinch yeast nutrient and 1 pellet hops(optional for the hops). Boil for 15 minutes and pour into a sanitised container and cool in the fridge. Add your yeast and shake to add some air. Shake four times over the  next day or buy one of those yeast stirring plates (I hear they can get more than 4 times your yeast but I haven't tried one myself...) and then use for pitching your yeast again. The problem though is that starters run about a quart in volume so it maybe a problem if you don't have room in your fermentation vessel. Sometimes it'll need a blow off valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other solutions include aeration, gently swirling the jar, pitching a new dose of the same yeast, adding yeast nutrient, warming the jar a little if you think if got too cold and adding a crushed Beano tablet.  I've never tried the last but in a few books it says it'll break down complex carb into sugars which lets the yeast eat again and start fermentation again. They make a note that it may throw your final gravity really low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3625" LastEditorUserId="3625" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T04:41:23.310" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T04:41:23.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10324" CreationDate="2013-07-16T19:01:41.627" Score="2" ViewCount="3580" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I see from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10309/murky-beer-no-bubbles-in-airlock&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt; and from elsewhere on the Web that a bubbling airlock is apparently not an indicator for fermentation, as there could be a leaky lid. Regardless, doesn't a non-bubbling airlock indicate that something is wrong, as there could be a leaky lid? I'm under the impression we use an airlock in the first place to keep air out as it would oxidize the alcohol into vinegar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was my seventh extract batch. For the last 4 batches I've done a yeast starter and aeration with an aeration stone. This has moved my lag time from 24 hours max to 12-16 hours max. For all my other batches I get a vigorous airlock for 4 days. Normally I pitch the yeast in the middle of the fermentation bucket and do NOT stir the yeast around. I normally order the Wyeast over the internet which takes 5 days to ship to me. I use a swamp cooler. Normally I wait until the airlock starts to bubble before I add frozen water bottles to the swamp cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the Creme Ale from NB which uses Wyeast 1056 (American Ale).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this was the first time I didn't order the Wyeast from NB; instead I purchased it from the LHBS because I figured the 5 day shipping from NB was harmful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also ordered a Dead Ringer IPA which uses the same yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made two yeast starters. The one for the Creme Ale had an OG of 1050 and the one for the IPA had an OG of 1040. The IPA definitely was a better yeast starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I aerated the creme ale wort (1040 OG) with an areation stone and pitched the entire 1050 yeast starter into it. This time I decided to stir up the yeast in the wort. This time I decided to put 6 frozen water bottles into the swamp cooler immediately instead of waiting until the airlock started bubbling. Using a temperature probe I kept the swamp cooler at 60*F by adding frozen water bottles. The lid was completely sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 24 hours the airlock was not bubbling, so I purchased another Wyeast 1056 from the LBHS and pitched it without a yeast starter at 48 hours. However when I opened the lid to the bucket I saw the following: (Is this fermentation activity or simply a result of me stirring the wort/yeast from 48 hours before?)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CrDnd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Around 2 hours later (50 total) the air lock started bubbling, so I figured that I was safe and that either the 1050 og of the yeast starter somehow destroyed the yeast (even though I successfully pitched 1060 og yeast starters before) or the Wyeast I bought was bunk. I then added 6 frozen water bottles to the swamp cooler to take it to 60*F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I woke up 10 hours later (60 hours total) the airlock stopped bubbling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only did three things differently this time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The LBHS sold me bad yeast.&#xA;2) The frozen water bottles somehow stopped the fermentation.&#xA;3) Stirring the yeast into the wort somehow did something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the problem (if it is possible to diagnose over the internet), and what should I do now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am in the middle of brewing the IPA with a 1040 og yeast starter so I will report back. This time I will simply pitch the yeast starter and not stir it, and I won't add frozen water bottles until I see the airlock bubbling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T20:11:23.943" Title="First Time Airlock Won't Start" Tags="|fermentation|airlock|stuck-fermentation|bubble|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10322" CreationDate="2013-07-16T20:03:45.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you have learned, seeing or not seeing bubbles in the airlock does not necessarily relate to fermentation activity.  Judging by the pic you posted, you have a fine fermentation.  That's the visual clue you should be looking for, not bubbles.  Again, just becasue the airlock has stopped bubbling doesn't necessarily mean the beer isn't fermenting.  Keeping you swamp cooler at 60 doesn't necessarily mean the wort is at that temp.  It could possibly be much warmer, which would account for a fast fermentation.  Or there could be a leak somewhere keeping the airlock from moving.  Either way, based on you picture, it looks good.  Wait a couple weeks, then take a gravity reading.  My guess is that you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T20:03:45.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10322" CreationDate="2013-07-16T20:11:23.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture shows that your beer is actively fermenting. The brown foam is called &quot;Krausen&quot; and is composed of yeast and other solids that have been pushed to the top of the fermenter by the force of escaping CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely explanation for the lack of airlock activity is that either the bucket's lid was not properly sealed, or the airlock was not sealed in the bucket lid. Either way, the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; will escape the fermenter without going through the airlock. When you opened the fermenter to add the second packet of yeast, you must have done a better job of sealing the lid when you replaced it. With the seal intact, the airlock started bubbling as soon as the internal pressure had built to a sufficient degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A leak in your fermenter is nothing to worry about really. Historically, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byo.com/stories/item/1211-open-fermentation-tips-from-the-pros&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;open fermentation&lt;/a&gt; was the standard. The krausen will provide protection from oxidation, as it shields the fermenting beer from the atmosphere. The bigger concern is air-born contaminants getting at your beer. The loosely fitting lid, in combination with positive pressure created by Co&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; being released, should be enough to prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T20:11:23.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8063" CreationDate="2013-07-16T22:07:15.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My take is mostly a combination of a few of the above answers, but I'll mention it anyway:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Collect bottles from friends.  I don't always have enough empties on hand to rely on having washed them just after drinking, so I often end up with quite a few that have been sitting in someone's garage for a while.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A day or two before bottling day, rinse them all out briefly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put them in a tub full of oxiclean water.  I have a plastic tub I bought from walmart a while back that I use to store my misc brew supplies, so I just empty that out, put a few scoops of oxiclean in it, and fill it up with warm water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On bottling day, take them out of the tub and rinse them off (inside and out).  It takes probably 30 seconds per bottle to get the oxiclean film off of them, but I've never had any problems with off-flavor because of it.  95% of labels just fall right off as I pick them out of the bucket.  The rest come off with a quick scrub.  At worst you might need to spend another 30 seconds wiping off the glue residue from where the label was.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill up your bottling bucket with starsan water, and use that to fill each bottle 1/2-3/4 of the way full.  This has the added benefit of sanitizing your bucket, tubing, and bottling cane as well as the bottles themselves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill up the bottles, which should now be clean and sanitized, with delicious beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T22:07:15.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10253" CreationDate="2013-07-17T00:10:47.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how I would go about drilling a hole and fitting it with a bung for a thermowell, so I decided to simply nail a hole in the lid and permenantly attach the DS18B20 probe using a sealant. My mom used to make and sell aquariums, and she suggested using silicone glue. &lt;a href=&quot;http://matthewmoisen.com/blog/alcohol/brewing/measuring-wort-temperature-directly-with-ds18b20-and-raspberry-pi/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a post&lt;/a&gt; on my web page detailing the step-by-step and including all the pictures. Otherwise, here is the run down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a hole in the lid with a nail and a hammer. I opened the hole up with a pen. I dropped the probe inside the hole so that it was about half way down the bucket. Would the top or the bottom be a better location? Then I sealed the probe to the lid with silicone glue. I put the glue only on the top of the lid because I feared the potential for the taste to seep into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jOndQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9AnLq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T17:45:49.583" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T17:45:49.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10328" CreationDate="2013-07-17T02:42:11.463" Score="1" ViewCount="4730" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my last 1 gallon batch, I decided to avoid my common problem of overflowing my airlock, by using a proper blow-off.  So I bought myself a stopper, hose, and double-sided barb from my LHBS.  I gently plugged the carboy, but the stopper started pushing out.  So I tried again; same result.  So, I pushed it in a little further and harder.  Great, it stayed in place!  Fast forward 2 days, and super-active fermentation has stopped, so it's time to replace it with a proper 3-piece airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now I can't get the stopper out.  I &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; figure out how to get it out (while somehow not contaminating my beer, I hope)... but just how far am I supposed to insert a stopper, keeping it airtight and removable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T18:14:01.060" Title="How far to insert stopper in carboy?" Tags="|airlock|carboy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10327" CreationDate="2013-07-17T06:11:40.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't say there is much of a scientific answer to this question.  If I had to guess though, I'd say I definitely wouldn't want the bung flush with the top of the carboy, maybe at least 1/4 - 1/2 an inch protruding from the top of the carboy.  That way if it does get stuck, I could use something to grip onto it and pull it out.  Typically it's safe to just go until it's snug, and you should be good.  I've never had a bad seal from just pressing until it's snug.  If the top of the bung is flush with your carboy (without applying unreasonable &quot;hulk-smash&quot; force on pushing the bung in), it is too small, because at that point, it could theoretically fall in with enough force.  Mine never run that risk, so you may want to consider going one size bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, I'd imagine a wire coat-hanger bent to form an &quot;L&quot; shape would be able to fit through the hole in the bung pop it out fairly easily, so long as it isn't wedged in way too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I misread part of your question.  When you say you try to push in the stopper and it pushes back out, by how much?  It may still have a sufficient seal.  Depending on the material, you may also try spraying the stopper with starsan before pushing it in, and the liquid may (or may not) cause it to seal without pushing out.  I retract my previous suggestion of going bigger, as it sounds like if anything, your stopper may be too big, judging by how much it is pushing out.  My guess is though that your seal is just fine, and the cork is the appropriate size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T12:55:11.520" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T12:55:11.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10327" CreationDate="2013-07-17T17:22:59.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 words...duct tape.  I frequently use it to hold stoppers in place.  BTW, I have found that StarSan exacerbates the problem.  It makes things slipperier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T18:32:17.473" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T18:32:17.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10331" CreationDate="2013-07-18T17:23:13.687" Score="1" ViewCount="1098" Body="&lt;p&gt;My handy-dandy &quot;Beer Craft&quot; book has a handful of recipes with useful information, including expected targeted pre-boil gravity, original gravity, and final gravity.  Their pale ale recipe, for example, calls out a pre-boil gravity of 1.035, original gravity of 1.055, and final of 1.012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm wondering is... why does gravity increase from pre-boil to original?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's two things that happen here; you boil off some liquid, and you add hops.  You already have all your sugars from the malt.  My first thought was that it might be because you're increasing the density of sugars by losing water in the boil, but the ratio of liquid retention changes depending on batch size; I expect to lose about a gallon in an hour, regardless of whether I start with 2 gallons or 6; but the gravities stay the same.  My next thought was that the hops must affect the density, but what we keep from the hops after the boil doesn't go away as the beer ferments... or does it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the science behind this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T17:35:29.880" Title="Why does gravity increase between pre-boil and pitching?" Tags="|boil|specific-gravity|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10330" CreationDate="2013-07-18T17:35:29.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The liquid boils off but the sugars remain.  Since specific gravity is a measure of density, the wort becomes more dense when there's less liquid but the amount of sugar remains the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T17:35:29.880" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10333" CreationDate="2013-07-18T19:23:03.853" Score="11" ViewCount="23381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've decided to stop doing secondary-fermentations on the recommendation of users on this stackexchange. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Dead Ringer IPA from Northern Brewer suggests 1-2 weeks primary, and 2-4 weeks secondary, with the last oz of Centennial being dry hopped in the secondary 1-2 weeks prior to bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried about 2 things: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) is a 6 week primary going to be ok -- will the yeast start to die at this point? (I did a yeast starter and areation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Racking to secondary fermentation leaves the krausen behind. Do I simply drop the hop pellets onto the krausen and let them sink through? I don't want a bunch of holes in my krausen because I think I have a leaky lid on my fermentation chamber. Should I just get a filter and pop only one hole in the krausen, pouring the pellets through the filter, in order to minimize harm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T19:26:45.340" Title="How to Dry Hop when Forgoing Secondary Fermentation?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|secondary|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10332" CreationDate="2013-07-18T22:01:52.773" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping in primary is totally fine, I do it all the time. It does the exact same thing. The main reason for secondary is getting clearer beer, but I never do secondary as it increases the chance of oxidization and infection. I get very clear beer without secondary just by cold crashing and letting it sit for a while. After kegging/bottling, just let it sit for a while. Most of the remaining trub/hops/yeast/etc will settle to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) 6 weeks in primary is very safe. When you say will the yeast start to die, are you worrying about autolysis? 6 weeks is not very long, I've never heard of anyone having that problem for any length of time. I think it's something homebrewers used to worry about a lot, but it's not really a common problem. Lots of people leave beer in primary for months at a time, yeast and all. In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter10-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, John Palmer says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As a final note on this subject, I should mention that by brewing with&#xA;  healthy yeast in a well-prepared wort, many experienced brewers,&#xA;  myself included, have been able to leave a beer in the primary&#xA;  fermenter for several months without any evidence of autolysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you do your dry hop at the end, just before bottling/kegging, for however long you're doing it. I would say anywhere from 24 hrs to 7 days is good. Some people go longer, but you're going for freshness here and too long can also impart grassy or vegetal flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You generally don't want to dry hop while there's any krausen. Krausen is a sign lots of CO2 being produced and bubbling out of the beer. If CO2 is leaving the beer, so is your hop aroma. The point of dry hopping is to increase your hop aroma, so you don't want it bubbling at all anymore by the time you add your dry hop addition, because this will decrease the effectiveness of the dry hopping as the CO2 will carry away the aroma molecules. After about a week in primary for most ales, the foam should settle and dissipate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make an excellent, hoppy IPA and Pale Ales by simply fermenting for 7-10 days, then dumping in the hops and leaving for another 2-7 days (or less), giving you a full 2 weeks in primary/conditioning. Then bottle or keg and condition for a week or two. You can pour the hops right into the fermenter but you want to be careful when transferring to keg or bottling bucket that you avoid transferring them. You can do this by leaving the siphon/racking cane above the trub line, or putting a filter on the siphon (e.g. a strainer bag). Alternatively you can dry hop in a mesh bag or other straining device. Personally I don't do this, as more contact with the liquid increases hop utilization, but lots of homebrewers use mesh bags or baskets or tea balls to make straining them out easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I'm not sure why you would worry about &quot;holes in your krausen&quot;. Dropping some hops on the foam would not rupture the yeast cells floating around in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6050/how-long-can-homebrew-stay-in-the-primary-fermenter/6064&quot;&gt;How long can homebrew stay in the primary fermenter?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/785/too-long-in-primary-fermentation/827#827&quot;&gt;Too long in Primary Fermentation?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T19:26:45.340" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10275" CreationDate="2013-07-18T22:12:19.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also carbonate faster using a carbonation stone. You can &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/products/carbonating-keg-lid.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;buy one ready&lt;/a&gt; made online, or make one yourself, or attach a piece of beer line tubing to the gas in tube with a clamp and attach a carbonation stone to the other end, again with a clamp. I like using a plastic clamp for the end with the stone since it's sitting in the beer. Sanitize everything of course. I did this and it works well, you can carbonate in 24 hours without needing to crank the pressure up past the recommended amount (12-15psi). Soak the stone in sanitizer or boil it between uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T22:12:19.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10327" CreationDate="2013-07-19T17:36:04.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found the drying the lip of the carboy and stopper to solve the problem...  If you are using a rinse-less sanitizer the drying is more often than not the part that causes the sanitary condition so keep that in mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2620" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T17:36:04.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2013-07-19T20:26:15.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I made my still, I was anxious to get started distilling. I had a five gallon carboy of strawberry mead that was made to about 15% ABV and was less than a year old,so I used that. It was wonderful right off the still, with flavors from both the strawberries and the honey. I double distilled, using a stripping run and a spirit run. It was good clear, but then I aged the distillate at cask strength on french oak chips in a gallon glass jug, and it soon became a delightful mead brandy. I have made a number of other mead brandies since. I can't find a traditional name for it, but it is really good! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3637" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T20:26:15.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-20T17:31:15.157" Score="1" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have rigged up &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/10166/3345&quot;&gt;a Raspberry Pi with some DS18B20 temperature probes&lt;/a&gt; that measure both the water in the swamp cooler and &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/10326/3345&quot;&gt;the beer directly&lt;/a&gt; and store the results in a MySQL database. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed a new batch on 7/18, and fermentation began on 7/19, from which I have put varying amounts of frozen water bottles into the swamp cooler on 8 occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the pattern I have currently noticed for adding frozen water bottles during primary fermentation (the patters may well change after the primary fermentation due to the lack of exothermic reaction present):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1) The water in the swamp cooler reaches its minimum temperature in about one hour.&#xA;2) The fermenting wort reaches its minimum temperature in about two hours.&#xA;3) The wort maintains its minimum temp + 1°F over the next two hours, very slowly working&#xA;    its way back up over the course of 5 hours after reaching its minimum&#xA;4) Both swamp and wort temperatures tend to equalize in three hours.&#xA;5) The temperature drop in the wort is roughly 40-60% of the temperature drop in the swamp&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now my main question is how much of a drop of temperature, in how fast of a time period, can yeast tolerate without dropping out? (Ale in particular, but Lager too if you know the answer). Would starting temperature also factor in--i.e., if starting temp was 75 and minimum temp was 70, would that be different than starting 70 minimum 65?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, on my first attempt the wort's temperature was 70.250°F. By placing three frozen water bottles in the swamp cooler, the wort's temperature dropped to 65.861°F in two hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another attempt, the wort was initially 69.350°F, and three frozen water bottles dropped it to 65.412°F in two hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another attempt, the wort was initially 69.125°F, and four frozen water bottles dropped it to 64.850°F in two hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another attempt, the wort was initially 67.212*F, and four frozen water bottles dropped it to 63.162*F in two hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another attempt, the wort was initially 68.100*F, and five frozen water bottles dropped it to 65.600*F in two hours (Interesting, smaller drop this time)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another attempt, the wort was initially 67.230°F, and five frozen water bottles dropped it to 61.800°F in two hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two hours ago the wort was 67.200°F, and five frozen water bottles have dropped it to 62.967°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future I will be posting graphs comparing the wort to the swamp with the number of frozen water bottles if anyone else is as interested in this as I am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T15:54:29.560" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T15:54:29.560" Title="How Much (and How Fast) of a Drop in Temperature can (Ale) Yeast Tolerate? (And Preliminary Results from My Experiment)" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|swamp-cooler|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2013-07-20T21:41:07.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an instant result without waiting, soak the label with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;white spirit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; on a cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use it on just about any surface except some transparent plastics (e.g. CD cases) which would turn dull. In that event, use &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_cleaning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dry cleaning&lt;/a&gt; petroleum&lt;/strong&gt; which only requires a bit more rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both white spirit and dry cleaning petroleum will mostly evaporate at room temperature with some smell. Anyhow, I recommend removing any residual solvent with ordinary washing up liquid before using the container for food or drink storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both solvents are sold much cheaper than those specifically marketed as label removing liquids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3639" LastEditorDisplayName="user3639" LastEditDate="2013-07-20T21:55:21.833" LastActivityDate="2013-07-20T21:55:21.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10342" CreationDate="2013-07-20T21:56:00.460" Score="0" ViewCount="1174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find a good deal in freezers to convert into kegerator, and I found a very good price in this specific model &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.frigidaire.com/products/Kitchen/Freezers/FFC0723DW.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Frigidaire FFC0723DW&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm totally noob in cubic feets and all the dimension things. So my question, is this freezer big enough to build a kegerator with a dual tap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As side note, I don't have kegs yet, so I open to suggestions regarding to keg sizes too. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T11:17:06.650" Title="Converting Frigidaire freezer into kegerator" Tags="|kegerator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10339" CreationDate="2013-07-21T01:56:10.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's certainly large enough to hold 2 corny kegs; they are 9&quot; in diameter and about 23&quot; tall.  I'm going to guess you could get more in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-07-21T01:56:10.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2013-07-21T23:49:15.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also just a Belgian Dubbel fermented with 1762 and aged on mission figs to drop to 0.993, down from 1.016 after primary.  Doesn't taste infected but drinking early just in case.  It is quite alcoholic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3643" LastActivityDate="2013-07-21T23:49:15.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10339" CreationDate="2013-07-22T11:08:50.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;7.2 cu. ft. will get you about 4 5-gallon cornelius kegs by the looks of it.  Homebrew Talk has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/converting-frigidaire-7-2-cu-ft-chest-freezer-162225/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a well-documented topic&lt;/a&gt; about someone converting that freezer, and it looks as though he's strapped his CO2 tank to the outside.  If you want to keep the tank on the inside, you may likely drop the kegs from 4 down to 3 or even two depending on the size of the CO2 tank.  I'd definitely follow suit and try to keep it outside of the keezer for space.  He went the extra mile with his setup, so don't feel as though it's a competition.  One thing I would take away from his post though is the computer fan.  Keezers generate a lot of moisture which can be a problem with rust and funk growing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to build your keezer in phases, and not go straight for the collar and tap handles right off the bat, settle for keeping your CO2 tank in the freezer, temperature controller dialed in, and just use a couple of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.midwestsupplies.com/plastic-liquid-dispenser-tap.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;picnic taps&lt;/a&gt;.  That'll be enough to get you started until you get the full keezer built.  The picnic taps are nice to have anyways in case you ever want to take a keg to a party, and don't want to lug the entire keezer with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as kegs, go with the above mentioned cornelius kegs.  Unless you're brewing above 10 gallons a batch, you probably won't need to go bigger, and if you did, you probably wouldn't be looking at a freezer like that.  Cornelius kegs will handle your 5-6 gallon batches easily, and fit will inside of chest freezers.  Don't bother buying new, you probably won't need them new.  Just make sure you're buying from a reputable source, since they can arrive &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/1irm2d/anyone_else_get_burned_by_that_four_kegs_for_99/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dented and banged up enough to be rendered useless&lt;/a&gt; upon arrival.  My suggestion is to buy them from your LHBS, pressurized.  While I'm speculating, I'm guessing stores can't ship pressurized kegs in the mail for safety reasons, so you're taking a gamble when ordering used kegs online.  If you buy them under pressure at a LHBS, you'll know they hold pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-07-22T11:17:06.650" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T11:17:06.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10344" CreationDate="2013-07-22T15:40:22.460" Score="2" ViewCount="846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to add fruit to my 1 gallon brew: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/recipe-kits/small-batch-beer-recipe-kits/bavarian-hefeweizen-1-gallon-recipe-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bavarian Hefewaizen&lt;/a&gt; + Raspberries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My research said to use 1 pound of fruit per gallon of beer and to add it after a few days of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added the 1 pound of Raspberries to an empty 1 Gallon carboy/jug and racked the beer over the top of that (leaving behind the trub).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing this, my wife asked me if leaving behind the trub would inhibit the fermentation. I have never used a second carboy/jug and am hoping that I did not mess this one up. The air-lock still seems to be bubbling, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts/insight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3605" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T16:04:59.433" Title="1 Gallon Secondary" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|secondary|fruit|small-batch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10343" CreationDate="2013-07-22T16:04:59.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After only a few days in primary, there's almost certainly enough yeast suspended in the beer to ferment the sugars in the fruit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Very high gravity beers. The high alcohol levels in the finished beer are toxic to yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Beers that have aged for many months. Most of the yeast will have precipitated ot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these cases, you're advised to add fresh yeast to induce a secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW - you probably should be concerned about head-space, given that you're fermenting in a one gallon jug. The renewed fermentation will produce CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, which will push the fruit to the surface. A vigorous fermentation might push through the airlock and make a mess. It's best to use an oversized fermenter that provides a around gallon of head-space to avoid this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T16:04:59.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10346" CreationDate="2013-07-22T16:37:08.303" Score="2" ViewCount="6284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't had the chance to brew in about two years and I've been storing my copper wort chiller in a storage locker for most of that time. Upon moving and retrieving it yesterday, it's got some really interesting coloration on it. The bronzed color is worn off in little splotches and circles here and there. I'm not sure what caused it (be it storage with too much access to the air or improper cleaning the only time I used it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it still good?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is, do I just want to clean it as outlined here or will I need to do something special because of that? &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7011/cleaning-copper&quot;&gt;cleaning copper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will these spots, where it almost looks oxidized or as though paint has chipped off, cause any potential problems with brewing or flavor?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a bunch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3645" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T14:10:26.470" Title="Is my copper wort chiller still good?" Tags="|equipment|off-flavor|wort-chiller|copper|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10345" CreationDate="2013-07-22T16:52:29.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as it isn't rusted and/or leaking, you're probably fine.  If it were me, I'd take some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homesolutionsnews.us/brassopolish/index.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;polish&lt;/a&gt; to it and make sure to rinse it thoroughly afterwards just to be certain.  You may not have to, but my perfectionism would scream at me for any mistakes in the flavor of the beer, even if it had nothing to do with the chiller.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I vividly remember having to spend hours polishing brass in the military with the previously linked Brasso, which was seemingly capable of removing any tarnish the metal could throw at me, so I'd imagine it could gnaw right through any oxidized blotches you might have on your chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, just make sure you rinse it after you polish it, probably would help to run it over with a wet rag just to make sure, but it should do the job perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: Just realized copper doesn't rust, so you're safe in that regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T16:52:29.307" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10348" CreationDate="2013-07-22T18:03:56.713" Score="5" ViewCount="892" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I am bottling my beers I tend to do so into 22oz bottles and usually have enough remainder to make one 12oz. I was wondering if it would be safe to bottle the remainder into 8oz or smaller bottles to open one at a time up to taste how the beer has aged/bottled? Could this potentially be a bottle bomb? Where can I get small bottles that I can cap and what is the smallest I can find?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T18:42:03.760" Title="Small bottles for sampling" Tags="|bottles|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10347" CreationDate="2013-07-22T19:18:59.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I have seen small glass bottles akin to flasks in shape and size at my local homebrew store, I cannot seem to find anything similar online.  With more digging, I'm certain they could be found, but I'm at least positive that there are bottles smaller than 12 oz. that could be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long as your priming sugar is evenly mixed in the solution before bottling, and the amount of air space remaining in the bottle before capping is proportional between the bottle sizes, no matter the size of the bottle, they will all theoretically carbonate to the same levels, in the same amount of time.  So for instance, if you filled a 22 oz bottle 7/8 of the way with beer, leaving 1/8 open air, and you filled a 12 oz bottle 3/4 full, leaving 1/4 of it to open air, it would carbonate differently between the two bottles, in both amounts of CO2 dissolved in solution, as well as time it takes to carbonate.  In the above example, the 12 oz bottle with 1/4 of the bottle being air, it would carbonate slower, and have less CO2 in solution (as well as potentially more oxygen in it to produce off flavors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are, unless you have large differences in your bottles when filling them across 22 oz, 12 oz, and potentially 8 oz if they can be found, you probably won't notice the difference in carbonation between them.  Just make sure they all relatively share a similar ratio of beer:air in each bottle (determined by eyesight), they'll all carbonate the same, in the same amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means, you mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;open one at a time up to taste how the beer has aged/bottled&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your smaller bottles you intend to taste over time will carbonate just as quickly as the 12 oz and 22 oz bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, you won't have bottle bombs, while I cannot find any bottles smaller than 12 oz, I'm certain they are out there, and as long as you keep the bottles proportionally similar in the beer-to-bottle-size ratio, they'll all carbonate in the same amount of time, to the same levels of carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T19:18:59.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10345" CreationDate="2013-07-22T23:04:20.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After every 10 or so brews, I soak mine in powdered brewery wash (PBW), goes in with a rainbow of colors comes out looking like new. Plus, no elbow grease required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T23:04:20.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10307" CreationDate="2013-07-22T23:20:06.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would if it were me. In fact when I use fresh grape juice anymore I transfer after just 3 to 5 days then again 2 weeks later. If you intend to bulk age at some point be sure to top the carboy up to the neck and if you're ok with Sulphites use 1/4 teaspoon of Potassium metabisulfite per 5 gallons to reduce risk of wild yeasts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastEditorUserId="3647" LastEditDate="2013-07-23T17:29:44.390" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T17:29:44.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10357" CreationDate="2013-07-23T01:01:46.727" Score="0" ViewCount="1181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what would happen if I brewed an ale, let it sit through its normal time period at traditional ale temperature (let's say, one month), and then lagered it at 40˚F for 1-4 weeks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine if one were to go this route, he or she would remove the fermentor from cooling for a few days so the yeast would re-activate, before adding priming sugar and bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="2725" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T16:37:19.477" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T16:37:19.477" Title="Lagering an Ale" Tags="|ale|lagering|experiments|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-23T03:57:07.957" Score="1" ViewCount="685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had three more days of bottle-conditioning to go on one batch of beer, yet I accidentally put them all in the refrigerator instead of a different batch that was finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just pull them out of the refrigerator? Will they continue to bottle condition and carbonate even though I have already cold crashed them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="2725" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T16:37:44.197" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T16:37:44.197" Title="Refrigerated bottles when they were not finished bottle conditioning" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10352" CreationDate="2013-07-23T12:00:19.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak from experience, but by putting the bottles in the fridge, the yeast isn't dead, merely dormant or slowed down.  I'd take them out, let them warm up to room temperatures, hold them upside down while swirling to get the slurry off the bottoms of the bottles, turn them right-side up, and store them back away again.  As long as you didn't go too low in temperature (near freezing), I'd think you'd be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T12:00:19.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10356" CreationDate="2013-07-23T14:06:46.760" Score="0" ViewCount="685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to allow for primary fermentation, then rack the beer out of the primary fermentor and than let it 'age' in secondary for about 2 weeks. At that point I used to move the beer from room temp (~18-20ºC), to about 5ºC for aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been searching here about the lengths of fermentation, aging, and if I should rack the beer from primary fermentor into secondary, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm understanding now that if I'm making some simple ale, and don't want to add anything for secondary fermentation, I don't need to rack my beer out of primary to avoid any troubles that may incur from racking to secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is the only thing I couldn't find in previous questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I don't rack the beer out of the primary fermentor, do I have to change the temperature like I've done in the past for secondary fermentation or should I let it stay at room temperature for more time?&#xA;I don't understand the purpose of this. Previous questions only cover the advantages and disadvantages about secondary fermentation, but nothing regarding fermentation temperature requirements and differences between primary and secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-07-23T14:43:17.783" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T14:44:57.540" Title="Change the temperature from fermentation to aging?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|secondary-fermentation|aging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10355" CreationDate="2013-07-23T14:44:57.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a simple ale that doesn't require a secondary fermentation, you can go straight to your aging temperatures after primary fermentation has completed (approximately one week to allow for a quick diacetyl rest).  The only thing accomplished by racking a beer from primary to secondary is to get it off the trub and yeast that has flocculated (sunk) to the bottom of the bucket/carboy.  It is suggested that you rack from primary to secondary to ensure that you get the full effects of the secondary fermentation (if you require a secondary fermentation) and dry hopping (if you are dry hopping), as the yeast cake from primary will supposedly inhibit some of the taste you would otherwise get from racking to a secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, you can follow the exact same temperature/aging schedule as you normally would minus the step of racking to secondary without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T14:44:57.540" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10351" CreationDate="2013-07-23T15:42:14.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically what you've described is cold conditioning an ale, a fairly normal practice.  It allows the beer to clarify and smooth, the same way it does with a lager.  There is no need to let the beer warm before bottling.  There's still plenty of yeast in it, and the yeast will become active once you add priming sugar and let the beer sit at room temp to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2013-07-23T19:57:18.220" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T19:57:18.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="771" CreationDate="2013-07-23T18:37:33.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on buying a Country Living Mill, and I am both baking and brewing. I was researching if the mill could be used for crushing malt as well.&#xA;A lot of people have been asking this question, but I've only found one person actually having tried it. According to him it crushes the malt nicely and leaves the husks.&#xA;Here is the link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/barley-crusher-what-mill-should-i-buy-65298/#post671124&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/barley-crusher-what-mill-should-i-buy-65298/#post671124&lt;/a&gt; I also found a video where a guy demonstrates the grain mill and he shows a sample of cracked wheat he made on the coarse setting. You can skip to about 5:15 if you want to see the cracked wheat. The movie is here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIwPlj0ooEs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIwPlj0ooEs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3650" LastEditorUserId="3650" LastEditDate="2013-07-23T22:34:33.273" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T22:34:33.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10352" CreationDate="2013-07-23T20:18:44.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's ok, you can still pull them out and things will be fine. I would venture to say that it's pretty unnecessary- you didn't kill the yeasts, you just slowed it down like Scott said. Remember the general rule: life begins at 40. So long as your liquid isn't under 40 F or above 140 F, your yeasts are alive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3628" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T20:18:44.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10347" CreationDate="2013-07-23T20:43:39.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rogue Brewing was, at least for a time, bottling their higher-gravity beers in 7 oz. brown glass bottles. I've re-used them for homebrew with the same crown caps as I use on other bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at the very least this size of bottle does exist, but I don't have suggestions on how you can source them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scott provides a good answer on mixing your priming sugar to avoid bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T20:43:39.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10363" CreationDate="2013-07-23T21:18:08.013" Score="6" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the book &quot;Home Beermaking&quot;, by William Moore, it talks about calculating starting and finishing gravity in chapter 6. I believe that he's talking about when I get good enough at homebrewing to make my own recipes, as the current recipes I'm using all have an approximate starting and finishing gravity already listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &quot;why is this important?&quot; Is the only purpose of calculating starting and finishing gravity to relate how much alcohol content the beer has to another individual looking to make beer from your recipe? If so, why can't one simply measure the starting and finishing gravity when first making the recipe (since undoubtedly the only way to determine if a recipe is good is to make it at least once), and then relate this to others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something about the approximate starting and finishing gravity that will tell a brewer whether or not the beer will balance before making it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3652" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T17:06:35.477" Title="Why is it necessary to approximate starting and finishing gravity?" Tags="|specific-gravity|calculations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10362" CreationDate="2013-07-23T21:43:48.477" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The starting gravity and ending gravity serve many purposes, but ultimately will only tell you one thing, the percentage of alcohol.  Some of the purposes it may serve are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beer style guidelines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mouthfeel, flavor, bitterness, even aroma (FG)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast tolerance (SG)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Efficiency of sugar extraction in all-grain brewing (pre-boil gravity)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hop efficiency&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much grain/extract to purchase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really is one of the most important measurements of the beer (others include IBU's, and SRM).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you formulate a recipe, quite often you may wish to create a style.  For example, you may wish to brew a farmhouse ale, specifically a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style16.php#1c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;saison&lt;/a&gt;, you can see that it requires an original gravity between the ranges of 1.048 - 1.065, and a FG between 1.002 - 1.012.  In order for your beer to technically be considered a saison by the BJCP's standards, you would need to land your measurements between those ranges.  If you want to pull a Dogfish Head and brew whatever you want, toss out any guidelines, and brew what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go with the &quot;screw it, I brew what I want&quot; approach, it still serves other purposes.  Your yeast will only be able to tolerate so much alcohol before it becomes toxic for the yeast, and it cannot tolerate it.  For instance, you can't brew a Russian Imperial Stout with a low tolerance yeast, because of the tremendous starting gravity of the style.  The OG will help you determine what yeast you should choose.  If you go too low, the yeast will try to do its magic, but may die out too early and final gravity will be much higher than you want, making it unbearably sweet to drink.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you all-grain brew, you &quot;mash&quot; the grains, which is soaking them in warm water to extract sugars from the husks.  Each grain has a maximum efficiency, and while you'll never be able to reach 100% max, it's nice to not have to compensate with more grain because you had low efficiency.  The way you measure the efficiency of your mashing process, is by taking a gravity reading (which will ultimately become your original gravity upon completion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as you can see, the starting gravity, and ending gravity is probably the most important measurement in brewing great beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, you shouldn't interpret William Moore's use of approximation as &quot;winging it&quot;.  While I don't own a copy of the book, &lt;strike&gt;I assume he's using approximate readings in one of two ways (or maybe both).&lt;/strike&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: Now that I understand what he is talking about, what he's explaining is essentially going to help you determine how much fermentables you need to use to essentially achieve a certain ABV (long-term goal).  Essentially you'd be stone-age brewing if you didn't bother with gravity readings.  What you'd get is what you get.  What he's describing is one of the most basic steps in formulating a recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, while having knowledge of how to calculate your original gravity is very valuable and a great way to impress and confuse your assistant brewers and friends, there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://brewedbyus.com/info/calculators/gravity/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;plenty&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://brewgr.com/homebrew-recipe-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;of&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tools&lt;/a&gt; that will do the hard work for you, freeing you up to get back to doing the fun part of homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-07-25T17:06:35.477" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T17:06:35.477" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10234" CreationDate="2013-07-23T22:28:09.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didnt catch this in your explanation or picture but did you use a good dose of thread tape on all your threaded connections? This got me when i first set mine up. Even though i locked it tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though your connection is tight air can still escape the tread tape fills the spaces between the threads.  It only costs about 50 cents at any home improvement store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else to think about although it doesn't sound like you have this problem.  Ensure your pressure release valve on your keg lid isn't stuck slightly open this happened to me once.  Just press it closed.  And use a liberal dosage of food grade lubricant on your main lid o ring.  That helped me seal one of my lids that's a little dinged up.  Let me know if you want a few more hints.  Good luck¡&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T22:28:09.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-23T22:56:12.717" Score="1" ViewCount="2322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to brew a hazelnut brown ale. What brands of hazelnut extract are the best tasting? My lhbs does not carry one.  Ideally im looking for a brand that closely resembles the real thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T18:33:03.943" Title="Hazelnut Brown Ale - What extract?" Tags="|beer|flavor|brown-ale|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10347" CreationDate="2013-07-24T08:02:07.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also just use a few more 12 oz instead of 22 oz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 x 22oz + 12 oz (left over) = 34 oz (about 3 bottles)&#xA;5 x 22oz + 12 oz = 122 oz (about 10 bottles)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T08:02:07.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10365" CreationDate="2013-07-24T13:34:52.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just use a brown ale extract kit, and add some hazelnut flavoring to fermenter. If you don't use a pre-made kit, I would suggest always using the lightest extract you can get, and adding color, flavor using specialty grains.  Browns ales are usually made with 1 pound or so of a dark crystal malt (80-120L) and 4oz of chocolate malt. (for 5 gallon batches) easy on the hazelnut, it could get too powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3654" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T13:34:52.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10365" CreationDate="2013-07-24T15:24:22.133" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just co authored a book on commercial beer recipes for homebrewers.  One of the recipes I got was Rogue Hazelnut Brown ale.  The recipe came directly from brewmaster John Maier.  They used to use Flavormate extract, but have switched to the Northwestern brand.  John says it has much more flavor than other brands.  Based upon their usage, 1/2 tsp. for a 5 gal. batch is the right amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T15:24:22.133" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="790" CreationDate="2013-07-24T23:33:58.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something else to consider: in agreement with many other answers, I have been using a glass carboy with a wine thief to do gravity (and taste!) tests mid-fermentation. One good reason to use a carboy vs. an ale pail is that &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plastic buckets are oxygen-permeable.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the best secondary may be &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/2835/2725&quot;&gt;no secondary at all.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2725" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T23:33:58.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10372" CreationDate="2013-07-25T10:11:01.453" Score="6" ViewCount="11846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just been reading an FAQ on different sugars used in brewing. Most kits specify usage of 1KG of brewing sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I made a batch of home brew I used table sugar, but this seemed to make the beer overly cloudy (even after adding beer finings), very alcoholic, and it tasted a little odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second time I made a batch I used brewing sugar which improved the condition of the beer somewhat, and it was far more drinkable than the first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what I really want to know is what other forms of sugar can I use, and what effect will this have on the condition and flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The types of sugar I am most interested in are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Golden Syrup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maple Syrup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Treacle Syrup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brown Sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3012" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2013-10-21T18:30:56.947" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T15:16:17.907" Title="Home brewing with different sugars" Tags="|beer|fermentation|sugar|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10371" CreationDate="2013-07-25T11:45:45.120" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to an overview of sugars in &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20120503060730/http://allaboutbeer.com/learn-beer/home-brewing/recipes/2012/01/brewing-with-sugar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have brewed with multiple sugars before but never maple and I'm not certain what golden syrup is. Honey is a very common ingredient. In my uses it leaves a mild honey flavor but ferments out almost completely. I've used brown sugar and it adds a sweetness but I personally feel the raw demerara sugar leaves a richer brown sugar taste. And Belgian candy sugar is also nice in a brew. Something I think you'll have to try to understand the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the sugars you mention will leave some noticeable flavor to your beer however what's more important when looking for new sugars is the type of sugar you are using. Each type of sugar such as dextrose, lactose, sucrose etc. has vastly differently affects on yeast. For instance milk sugar or lactose can't be processed by yeast to the sweetness lingers in you beer after fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you used table sugar you were using sucrose where normal malts are dextrose. I believe you can boil down sucrose to fructose to do other things. But the yeast didn't eat it up the same way it can eat up malt which I why you got strange flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main takeaway here is when using a new sugar find out the type of sugar and how it is used. Once you get that down it merely experimenting with flavors. As a hint try a pound of light Belgian candy sugar in  an IPA you won't be disappointed. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2021-10-29T15:16:17.907" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T15:16:17.907" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-25T12:45:14.573" Score="1" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;Combing through the miriad different ideas about brewing a Thomas Hardy clone, I've become confused about what the consesus is about how &quot;the real thing&quot; is brewed.  WLP099 is associated with &quot;Thomas Hardy&quot; on Mr Malty, and has a high alcohol tolerance.  But my question is, do they just use that at bottling time to carbonate?  If so, then what's the first yeast strain that gives the flavor profile?  It looks like there are some people saying it's Wyeast 1084 (Irish Ale) or Wyeast 2206 (Bavarian Lager).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2013-08-24T14:15:13.053" Title="Does Thomas Hardy use a separate bottling yeast strain?" Tags="|yeast|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10373" CreationDate="2013-07-25T13:27:07.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Homebrew Talk pulled &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/thomas-hardy-clone-54090/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the recipe&lt;/a&gt; from clone brews.  Looks like they use 1084 from Wyeast, which judging by the OG and FG, is cutting it a little too close for my liking since 1084 caps at 12% ABV.  Wyeast 2206 is a lager strain, which would go against the recipe being an ale, plus it has even less tolerance.  I suspect if you lager it with 2206 (or under-attenuate with 1084), then add WLP099 for bottling you're gonna have a 5 gallon batch of bombs primed to blow.  If you go with either of the Wyeast strains you mentioned and choose not to add WLP099, you may not get your bottles to carbonate at all.  If there's two things that could go wrong with this brew's fermentation, those two are likely it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't had the beer myself to know for certain, but I know that WLP099 gives off some extreme ester characters in high gravity ales, which I'm suspecting may not be an issue given the high final gravity in the ale.  If I had to brew it myself, I would pitch a massive healthy slug of WLP099 after doing a crazy two stage starter.  I suspect your biggest challenge is going to be pitching rates at that OG, but thanks to MrMalty, it would appear if you have a stir plate, you'll only need two vials and a 1.6 liter starter.  If not, you'll need two vials and a whopping 4.2 liters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!  This looks to be quite a challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T13:27:07.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10365" CreationDate="2013-07-26T01:02:54.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had success with a bottle of hazelnut syrup from Starbucks.  You can experiment with it by adding it directly to a glass of finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added about 4 T (tablespoons) of the syrup to about 12 liters of finished beer, and then let it sit in a carboy for about 6 weeks before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T01:21:49.797" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T01:21:49.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10377" CreationDate="2013-07-27T03:29:10.903" Score="5" ViewCount="2717" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's assume I've read all I can about the pros and cons of racking my beer from primary to secondary and I've decided that I want my lager clear and I'm going to rack away. I've brewed a dozen batches and have learned how to keep things sanitized, how to carefully use my auto-siphon, how to properly transfer to my bottling bucket, etc. I'm careful and deliberate. I'm doing my best to keep the beer from splashing and bubbling as I transfer. I've created some fruity beers due to high fermentation temps, but have zero infected beers. So if I'm careful about my process of racking to a secondary fermenter, how does my beer become oxidized? I'm asking because that seems to be a primary reason for NOT racking to secondary, yet I'm unable to figure out exactly how this will happen, assuming I am thoughtful and careful about the transfer. I would like to hear someone describe the way that oxidation happens under careful, deliberate circumstances when a home brewer is aware of the debate and aware of what one should or should not do during the transfer. Because I'm wondering if the whole &quot;oxidation&quot; concern is really only applicable to someone who is splish-splashing around in the kitchen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2834" LastActivityDate="2018-02-28T16:31:58.397" Title="How to oxidize my beer during transfer" Tags="|secondary|racking|oxidation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10376" CreationDate="2013-07-27T06:51:01.287" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;By being safe and deliberate with your racking methods, I doubt you'll have much of a problem.  I believe a fair amount of the problems stem from lack of improper methods of racking (among other things).  Some of the things that cause oxidation include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not getting the siphon tube to sit in the bottom of carboy/bucket/keg while transferring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting a lot of bubbles pushed through the siphon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A warped auto-siphon (melting with the transfer of hot liquid)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shaking carboys during fermentation if oxygen is present in the container (e.g. brewer uncorks the carboy, does whatever, corks it again, then shakes it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quickly force carbonating kegs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Several other lesser destructive methods&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had oxidation issues, and have almost always racked to a second vessel for clarity/aging.  I'm welcome to other's input and even telling me I'm incorrect, but to me, I feel as though the recent oxidation concerns are a bit over-hyped.  As long as you are conscious in your efforts, I doubt you'll notice any off flavors.  I would imagine a lot of the bad-rep racking gets is due to people carelessly transferring their beer between vessels enough, to the point where people figure the only hope they have for correction is to just not transfer the beer, which is as paranoid as it is silly. Getting your beer off the yeast cake and into a secondary vessel has vast benefits for maturation.  For someone to say &quot;Just leave it in primary because you probably aren't capable of racking correctly&quot; doesn't sit well with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless someone has a compelling argument otherwise (I'm reasonable enough to hear it out), I'd recommend with what you want, that you not only should, but need to rack your beer into a secondary vessel.  Make sure you take all the steps to prevent oxidation, and if you still encounter oxidation off flavors, I'd be shocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-07-27T06:51:01.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10376" CreationDate="2013-07-27T11:17:47.680" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxidization happens when there is oxygen dissolved in the beer, such when the beer is splashed or agitated in air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always been careful with racking, using either a regular siphon started by blowing into the carboy (through a sanitary air filter) or via an autosiphon. About 2 years ago, I had oxidization problems in a few batches which appeared after racking to the keg. I fixed by using CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; to push the beer, and I also bought a new siphon for cases when I can't use CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ways to avoid oxidization are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;avoid splashing or agitating the beer - this helps keep the oxygen out of the beer in the first place&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;purge all air with CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; before racking - then splashing the beer won't do any harm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add an anti-oxidant to the beer, e.g. 1/8 tsp of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ascorbic_acid&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ascorbic acid&lt;/a&gt; to 5 gallons - this will help reduce the amount of free oxygen in the beer, and thus reduce staling due to oxidization.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use priming sugar rather than force carbonating - the yeast will scavenge some of the oxygen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if bottling, use oxygen-scavenging bottle caps. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to deliberately oxidizing the beer, you would simply need to arrange for the beer to be agitated during transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature is also a key component - oxidization happens 3-fold quicker for each 10&amp;deg;C/18&amp;deg;F increase in temperature. So if you wanted to deliberately oxidize a beer quickly, say to see how it tastes, simply keep it warm (70&amp;deg;C/160&amp;deg;F) for a few hours, then chill and taste side by side a beer that hasn't been kept warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-07-27T11:17:47.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10376" CreationDate="2013-07-27T16:16:49.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Because I'm wondering if the whole &quot;oxidation&quot; concern is really only applicable to someone who is splish-splashing around in the kitchen.&quot;  In a word, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-07-27T16:16:49.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10383" CreationDate="2013-07-27T21:24:17.360" Score="2" ViewCount="1542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading through &lt;em&gt;Beer Craft&lt;/em&gt; by William Bostwick and Jessi Rymill, and there's a lot of really interesting variations for basic recipes.  I'm aiming to try their Saison recipe, and it says that for a &quot;Sour Saison&quot;, you can add 14g of lactic acid when bottling (for a 1G batch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My LBHS sells lactic acid in an 88% solution.  So if I need 14g, that's about 0.5oz, but divide by 0.88 to account for concentration; 0.56oz.  Is that right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I could just follow the recipe, and I'm sure that it will turn out correctly.  How intense of a sour effect can I anticipate, and is there much room for adjustment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T15:40:52.350" Title="Use of lactic acid" Tags="|bottling|sour|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10382" CreationDate="2013-07-28T12:30:19.497" Score="1" ViewCount="21344" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed an ESB yesterday, pitching Wyeast 1028 @ 70 degrees F.  Stirred and shook carboy for oxygen, then airlocked and moved moved to the basement.  This morning, carboy is @ 71 degrees F with NO activity in the carboy or airlock.  OG yesterday was 1.060 and it's the same this morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was slightly concerned about the yeast before I pitched it.  I had popped the activator and left the pouch at room temperature for 5 hours, but the pouch had not expanded much at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I'm a newbie, right now I'm thinking there was a problem with my yeast.  If so, what next?  Can I just pitch new yeast?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:  Racked to secondary on 8/1, gravity at 1.013.  Bottled on 8/6 with gravity at 1.012, which is a little lower than expected (1.014 was my calculated target.)  I'll update again in a couple of weeks after start sampling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE#2:  This is &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; stuff.  I'm quite happy with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3591" LastEditorUserId="3591" LastEditDate="2013-08-16T22:36:16.147" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T22:36:16.147" Title="Bad (dead) yeast? What now?" Tags="|yeast|repitch|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10381" CreationDate="2013-07-28T12:59:09.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it may just be taking its time to start up, I would say you should pitch another batch (or two, depending) of yeast.  The amount will depend on whether or not you used a starter for your yeast.  I'm guessing you did not, and if you are brewing a 1.060 gravity 5 gallon ESB, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr. Malty's yeast pitching calculator&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;tells me you needed 2.1 batches without a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my personal opinion, overpitching yeast carries significantly fewer negative consequences than under-pitching, especially for beginning brewers.  It may be best to just assume that pack was a waste, count it as the 0.1 in 2.1 packs from above, and go pick up two more to pitch as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, during this time, limit the batch's exposure to open air.  A delayed primary fermentation is the most risky time for infection.  Finally, purchase yourself a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stirstarters.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cheap starter plate&lt;/a&gt; (or make your own).  Slap the pack, &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/jMhFerNTwbQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;make your starter&lt;/a&gt;, and pitch it the night before you brew, letting it get built up and ready to go, to pitch the day of brewing.  An advantage of using a stir plate is you will more likely see a small krausen building up while stirring, telling you it's healthy.  Plus you get to save on buying multiple packs of yeast since the stirring will help tremendously with increasing the cell count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to get technical in understanding not only how under and over-pitching yeast can effect your fermentation, and how to ensure you are pitching the proper amount, there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/pitch-rate-lets-talk-yeast-85227/index2.html#post910443&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a post on HBT&lt;/a&gt; that is very informative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it works out for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-07-31T14:55:01.067" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T14:55:01.067" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10380" CreationDate="2013-07-28T15:17:39.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;0.5oz / 14ml of 88% sounds like far too much to me - it will really make the beer sour.  I recently added 2ml of lactic acid to a batch of witbier and the beer was pleasantly sour. I could probably have doubled it to 4ml but then it would have been assertively sour. More than that I think the sourness would be overwhelming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's a personal preference - you should try for yourself to find out how much sourness you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a graduated pipette or a syringe or some other way to measure small quantities of liquid, you can take a bottle of similar beer and add lactic acid in small increments until you find the sourness level that you like. You may also find it helpful to dilute the acid first to avoid adding too much, e.g. mix 1ml acid in 9ml of water, to give 10x dilution. Each milliliter of solution you add is then only 0.1ml acid. Once you find the sourness you like, scale the quantity up to 5 gallons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you find the sourness to be right after adding 2ml of the solution into 16oz of beer, then to scale that up you would use&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; = 40 (16oz bottles in a batch) * 2ml / 10 (dilution factor)&#xA; = 8ml 88% lactic acid required for the whole batch&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other sources claim higher amounts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;88% Lactic Acid - Lactic acid makes up between .18%-.52% in Gueuze&#xA;  (according to Wild Brews). This would work out to about 2.4 oz of this&#xA;  lactic acid in 5 gallons to get .3% lactic acid. A few drops in a&#xA;  small sample gave a classic sour twang, but there was also a hint of&#xA;  butteriness. I wonder if they use pediococcus in the production and&#xA;  some diacetyl makes it in. If it is the diacetyl , then adding this&#xA;  acid early in the secondary fermentation to give the Brett time to&#xA;  deal with it would be a good idea. When I added enough to make the&#xA;  beer really sour there was a lingering aftertaste, but it was hard to&#xA;  put my finger on exactly what it was.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2009/04/brewing-sour-beer-with-acid.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewing sour beer with acid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, 0.56oz may not be out of the question, but I would still try yourself to see.&#xA;Adding the acid during fermentation rather than at bottling time gives a smoother tang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-07-28T15:40:52.350" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T15:40:52.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10381" CreationDate="2013-07-28T15:56:29.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're simply being impatient.  It's not at all uncommon for it to take that long for yeast to start.  Be patient for another 24 hours and you should see fermentation.  Although you say you made a starter, your timeline is so short that your starter wouldn't have had time to do much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T15:19:24.327" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T15:19:24.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10402" CreationDate="2013-07-28T20:03:46.063" Score="1" ViewCount="945" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a sweet mead on February 24th, 2013, racked it to secondary on April 4th, 2013, and was getting ready to bottle it now (end of July). I had been out of town for a few weeks and when I came back the top of the brew looked like this: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ymAK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mead&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that likely to be contamination, or just something normal for a mead? It smells like mead, and a quick taste doesn't alert me to anything odd... but it certainly didn't have that swirling during most of the secondary process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2778" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T16:50:22.300" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T16:50:22.300" Title="Mead is infected/discolored" Tags="|mead|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10387" CreationDate="2013-07-28T21:18:21.517" Score="1" ViewCount="1158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 5 gallon glass carboy that I use for a secondary when making 5 gallon batches. I would love to get two batches of beer going at a time and I have a 6 gallon carboy that I've used for wine. Would it be okay to use the 6 gallon as a secondary? I know by that point the yeast aren't producing CO2 as vigorously, so I'm unsure whether I need to be concerned about the excess head space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3102" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T21:42:36.477" Title="using a 6 gallon carboy as a secondary when brewing 5 gallons of beer" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|carboy|oxidation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10386" CreationDate="2013-07-28T21:24:38.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done it and it works fine, although it isn't ideal.  You do risk possible oxidation, but if you don't keep it there for too long you should be OK.  Do you happen to have a CO2 tank to purge the 6 gal. with?  Or how about using the 6 gal. for the new batch of beer and skipping secondary on the other one?  Secondary is usually unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2013-07-28T21:42:36.477" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T21:42:36.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10389" CreationDate="2013-07-29T05:07:47.677" Score="1" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend has a small brewery in Oregon with lots of extra space. I'd love to be able to do my tiny home brewing over there, as I have no room at home and he has room to spare. There's no desire or intent to cross the line on selling any homebrew; just a desire to use better space for free. Anyone know if this might be legally OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(I'm in Oregon, so OLCC is the state agency --- nothing obvious on their site or on the interwebs).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3665" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T05:17:12.837" Title="Can home brewer co-locate in a microbrewery? (Oregon)" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10388" CreationDate="2013-07-29T05:17:12.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is talk to the OLCC.  I did that recently in relatioto a homebrewing class I'm teaching and they were very helpful.  My layman's opinion, based on the work I did helping get the OR homebrewing laws changed, is that it would be legal.  But I'm not a lawyer.  Contact the OLCC so neither you nor your friend get in trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T05:17:12.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-29T12:43:16.467" Score="1" ViewCount="350" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMDfyRjfBbc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; I had the idea of vacuum sealing yeast that I harvest from my beer batches to better protect it from bacteria/mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to rinse the yeast with boiled (sanitized) water and store it in that water (so it won't produce CO2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm not a biologist I'm wondering if that is a good idea, if anyone has done that before and if there are any downsides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In special, I would like to know if such a setup would make it easier to anaerobic bacteria to infect my harvested yeast (which I would like to avoid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastEditorUserId="2295" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T05:52:49.290" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T14:17:02.857" Title="Vacuum sealing harvested yeast" Tags="|yeast|bacteria|harvest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-29T12:47:39.070" Score="1" ViewCount="1194" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it a good idea to vacuum seal hops for storage using the method described in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMDfyRjfBbc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Often buy multiple varieties and have partially used packages laying around in my fridge until the next time I'm brewing a style they fit (both pellets and dried whole).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T14:01:31.077" Title="Vacuum sealing hops" Tags="|hops|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10345" CreationDate="2013-07-29T14:24:42.323" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't want to clean a copper chiller so it is shiny - if you remove the dull color (stable oxide), the metal is more likely to react and form the toxic blue-green oxide (verdigris).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/projects-and-equipment/item/1144-metallurgy-for-homebrewers&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/stories/projects-and-equipment/item/1144-metallurgy-for-homebrewers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Copper is relatively inert to both wort and beer. With regular use, it&#xA;  will build up a stable oxide layer (dull copper color) that will&#xA;  protect it from any further interaction with the wort. Only minimal&#xA;  cleaning to remove surface grime, hop bits and wort protein is&#xA;  necessary. There is no need to clean copper shiny-bright after every&#xA;  use or before contact with your wort. It is better if the copper is&#xA;  allowed to form a dull copper finish with use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, you need to be aware that copper can develop a toxic&#xA;  blue-green oxide called verdigris. Verdigris includes several chemical&#xA;  compounds — cupric acetate, copper sulfate, cupric chloride, etc. —&#xA;  and these blue-green compounds should not be allowed to contact your&#xA;  beer or any other food item because they are readily soluble in weakly&#xA;  acidic solutions (like beer), and can lead to copper poisoning (i.e.,&#xA;  nausea, vomiting). To clean heavy oxidation (black) and verdigris, use&#xA;  vinegar or oxalic acid-based cleansers like Revereware Copper and&#xA;  Stainless Steel cleanser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For regular cleaning of copper and brass, unscented dish detergent or&#xA;  sodium percarbonate-based cleaners are preferred. Cleaning and&#xA;  sanitizing copper wort chillers with bleach solutions is not&#xA;  recommended. Oxidizers like bleach and hydrogen peroxide quickly cause&#xA;  copper and brass to blacken; these oxides do not protect the surface&#xA;  from further corrosion, and are quickly dissolved by the acidic wort.&#xA;  Copper and other trace metals are beneficial nutrients for yeast, but&#xA;  the amounts that are dissolved from non-passive oxides can be&#xA;  detrimental to  the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Copper counterflow wort chillers should not be stored full of&#xA;  sanitizer or water. Any biological deposits can lead to corrosion in&#xA;  both water or sanitizer. Copper should be rinsed thoroughly with clean&#xA;  water and allowed to drain  before storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3666" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T14:24:42.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10391" CreationDate="2013-07-29T15:40:59.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I typically use a vacuum sealer to store my hops using technique #1 from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2011/08/vacuum-sealing-mylar-bags-foodsaver.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Home Brew Finds&lt;/a&gt;.  Since I typically buy hops in 1 pound bags that are sealed in mylar, this works perfectly.  I've sealed hops like this for up to 18 months with only a little loss of flavor and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T15:40:59.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10381" CreationDate="2013-07-30T04:45:55.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bag should puff up a little, but as it says on the back, it does not have to puff up all the way to be working.  As Denny said, patience grasshopper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want super fast starts then re-pitch some of the yeast cake from the primary of the last batch.  That takes off like a rocket.  And if you're buying the nice, but expensive, wyeasts, then it makes sense to get a few brews from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3666" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T04:45:55.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8063" CreationDate="2013-07-30T04:54:08.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lazy way;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak bottles in warm/hot water with chlorinated TSP - that nice pink powder.  Leave for 24 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse in hot water.  They should be clean now.  If not, repeat!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sterilize in oxy-clean/one-step aka H202 - this is good stuff because it is not poisonous and degrades into O and H2O.  unlike that nasty pink stuff that disolves bottle skunge. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want some rubber gloves for steps 1 &amp;amp; 2.  I have never met a bottle that did not shine after a sufficient application of TSP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, if you have flip top bottles, you may want to remove the tops (gently bend them off) when soaking in caustic chemicals or else it may reduce the life of the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3666" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T04:54:08.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10390" CreationDate="2013-07-30T13:38:07.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think this will make it easier for anaerobic bacteria - they are not really affected by the presence or lack of oxygen, and since there is little food available I doubt they would propagate anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it will do any harm, but you may want to try harvesting two jars yeast at the same time both with and without a vacuum to see if there really is any improvement in shelf life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible to have yeast remain uncontaminated for a long time without a vacuum - this brewer states he's &lt;a href=&quot;http://seanterrill.com/2010/03/23/yeast-ranching-and-you/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stored yeast for 17 months&lt;/a&gt; in the fridge without issue - but of course he doesn't mention how many (if any) he's lost to contamination so this is anecdotal at best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homebrewing is a highly personal process - if it works for you, no reason not to do it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T13:38:07.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10391" CreationDate="2013-07-30T14:01:31.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using mason jars will not be as good as using flexible packaging. Both hand pumps and food savers only create a partial vacuum, so only a percentage of the air is removed. With the mason jar, there will be a greater amount of air left in the jar since it's inflexible and a larger fixed volume compared to plastic/mylar packaging which changes shape and compresses the hops together, reducing space between the hops and between the hops and packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing the oxygen helps reduce the rate of oxidization. So I think this technique will work, and work well, just not as well as using a mylar bag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will get much better preservation of the hops if you freeze them (with or without a vacuum), rather than storing in the fridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T14:01:31.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10399" CreationDate="2013-07-30T16:19:21.287" Score="2" ViewCount="5264" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time I've brewed anything and I thought i'd start as simple as possible, so I just got some granulated sugar and apple juice from concentrate. 2L of apple juice, Champagne yeast, and 2 cups of sugar (I couldn't find any recipes anywhere). I measured my starting density to be 1.21 (water being 1.00), and after 2 weeks fermenting at about 22C in a PET demijohn I have a density of 1.06.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I calculate this to give me an ABV of 19% roughly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be too high to be accurate, so I wonder if anyone has any suggestions above and beyond just 'your hydrometer isn't working' as to what's happened? Does this sort of measurement sometimes indicate the cider is unsafe to drink or anything like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: All measurements were done at room temperature of 20-25C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3673" LastEditorUserId="3673" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T16:36:51.403" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T17:36:55.620" Title="Could I have accidentally made 19% cider by adding too much sugar?" Tags="|cider|sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10398" CreationDate="2013-07-30T17:36:55.620" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 cups of sugar weighs &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exclusivelyfood.com.au/2007/04/what-does-1-cup-of-weigh.html&quot;&gt;around 440g&lt;/a&gt;, so let's call that 1 pound. Sugar provides 4&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-3.html&quot;&gt;6 points of gravity, per pound, per gallon&lt;/a&gt;. 1 pound of sugar in 2 litres (~ 0.5 gallon) would contribute 92 points of gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apple juice is typically around 1.060. Adding the 92 points from the sugar addition yields an estimated starting gravity of 1.152. To get the 1.21 original gravity reading, the apple juice would have had to have a gravity of 1.210 - 1.092 = 1.118 -- roughly double apple juice's usual sugar content. This is possible if you added less than the recommended amount of water when reconstituting the concentrated apple juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you reconstituted the apple juice according to directions, I'd guess that your starting gravity reading was incorrect. This can happen if you don't adequately stir to distribute the sugar before taking a reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, it's almost certainly safe to drink, aside from the usual dangers of high-alcohol beverages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T17:36:55.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10401" CreationDate="2013-07-30T18:11:02.523" Score="5" ViewCount="870" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is anyone aware of a good script or library free/Open Source that can be used on a web page to calculate ABV, I'm not looking for a sites that will do the calculation for you, I want to add the javascript to my site to do the calculation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wrote a simple javascript but wasn't able to figure out the calculation that factored in temperature from the time it was measured.  I was going to post my Javascript and html here but I cant figure out how to post my html so i'll just give the javascript below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if someones know the mathematical equations to get ABV factoring in temperature I could write the JavaScript &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;function calcAbv() {&#xA;  var og = document.frm.og.value;&#xA;  var fg = document.frm.fg.value;&#xA;  document.frm.oneabv.value = Math.round((og - fg) * 131.25,2);&#xA;  document.frm.onealtabv.value = Math.round((76.08 * (og - fg) / (1.775 - og)) * (fg / 0.794),2);&#xA;  document.frm.twoabv.value = Math.round((1.05/0.79) * (( og- fg )/fg) * 100,2);&#xA;  document.frm.twobasabv.value = Math.round((og - fg) * 131,2);&#xA;  document.frm.threeabv.value = Math.round(((76.08 * (og - fg) / (1.775 - og)) * (fg / 0.794)),2);&#xA;  document.frm.threebasoneabv.value = Math.round(((og - fg) / .75) * 100,2);&#xA;  document.frm.threebastwoabv.value = Math.round((og - fg) * 131,2);&#xA;  document.frm.fourabv.value = Math.round((og - fg) * 131,2);&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3325" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T19:11:16.617" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T20:31:26.770" Title="Is there open source web library for Calculating ABV or other brew related tasks" Tags="|calculations|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10400" CreationDate="2013-07-31T12:45:54.947" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://npmjs.org/package/brauhaus&quot;&gt;brauhaus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - a javascript library for homebrew beer calculations, both in the browser and on the server&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not used it - the homepage says features include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Support for multiple Javascript runtimes Node.js 0.6.x, 0.8.x, 0.10.x&#xA;  Chrome, Firefox, Internet Explorer 9+, Safari, Opera, etc &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Calculate&#xA;  estimated OG, FG, IBU, ABV, SRM color, calories, and more &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Tinseth and&#xA;  Rager IBU calculation formula support Pellets vs. whole hops support&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Late addition boil support &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Dry hopping support &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Built-in unit conversions (kg &amp;lt;-&gt; lb/oz, liter&#xA;  &amp;lt;-&gt; gallon, temps, etc) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Color in °SRM to name, °EBC, °Lovibond, RGB&#xA;  conversions, CSS color, etc &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Plugin support to add additional features&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Lightweight - about 28kb when minified&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be used as a client javascript library - the homepage lists examples of doing calculations. The main interface to the calculations is via a recipe - since you want direct calculation of ABV from the OG/FG, you may need to look through the code to find that specific calculation. The alternative is to build a dummy recipe and add ingredients, or try setting the recipe's OG and FG values directly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-07-31T12:51:36.830" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T12:51:36.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10385" CreationDate="2013-07-31T15:25:43.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't answer for certain since I can't test and sample it, but I can tell you of my own experiences with mead going off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had mead go off that looked fine, smelled only a little bit odd, and was so awful tasting that a couple of drops on the tip of the tongue triggered an involuntary gag reflex. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend once had mead that went off and there were little black patches that formed on the surface with long thin tendrils drifting below. Probably some kind of interesting fungus, but we still dumped it (and no, even though it didn't smell off, we still did not taste it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen films form on the surface, usually earlier in the fermentation stage, and in my experiences they usually fade (maybe the stuff they're made of settles to the bottom over time). Mind you, I don't rack to secondary (I usually just bottle after a few weeks in the primary), so I've never had conditions quite like yours. I'm really not sure what caused this film so late in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it tastes and smells OK, it's probably safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T15:25:43.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10400" CreationDate="2013-07-31T18:05:10.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/temp-correction-formula-hydrometer-10684/index2.html#post100698&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;discussion on HBT&lt;/a&gt; about this.  If you measure in Fahrenheit, the formula is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;C = ((1.313454 - (0.132674*F) + (0.00205779 * F^2) - (0.000002627634 * F^2)))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where &lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt; is the correction, and &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; is degrees Fahrenheit of the liquid being measured with the hydrometer.  This assumes the hydrometer is calibrated for 59 degrees Fahrenheit.  If you measure the degrees in Celsius, the following formula will accomplish the same, assuming (again) that the hydrometer is calibrated at an equivalent 15 degrees Celsius (changing &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;DC&lt;/code&gt; as to not confuse with correction &lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;C = ((1.313454 - (0.132674 * ((DC * 1.8) + 32)) + (0.00205779 * (((DC * 1.8) + 32))^2)) - (0.111112627634 * (((DC * 1.8) + 32))^3)))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefor, if you want to adjust your two variables up-front, replacing the unadjusted variables, you would do the following (assuming the temperature is variable name &lt;code&gt;document.frm.og.temp&lt;/code&gt; and is measured in degrees Fahrenheit):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;function calcAbv() {&#xA;  var og = ((1.313454 - (0.132674*document.frm.og.temp) + (0.00205779 * Math.pow(document.frm.og.temp, 2)) - (0.000002627634 * Math.pow(document.frm.og.temp, 2)))) + (document.frm.og.value * 0.001),&#xA;      fg = ((1.313454 - (0.132674*document.frm.fg.temp) + (0.00205779 * Math.pow(document.frm.fg.temp, 2)) - (0.000002627634 * Math.pow(document.frm.fg.temp, 2)))) + (document.frm.fg.value * 0.001);&#xA;&#xA;  // Rest of the function&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if it is measured in degrees Celsius, the following would work just as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;function calcAbv() {&#xA;  var og = ((1.313454 - (0.132674 * ((document.frm.og.temp * 1.8) + 32)) + (0.00205779 * Math.pow((((document.frm.og.temp * 1.8) + 32)), 2))) - (0.111112627634 * Math.pow((((document.frm.og.temp * 1.8) + 32)), 3)))) + (document.frm.og.value * 0.001),&#xA;      fg = ((1.313454 - (0.132674 * ((document.frm.fg.temp * 1.8) + 32)) + (0.00205779 * Math.pow((((document.frm.fg.temp * 1.8) + 32)), 2))) - (0.111112627634 * Math.pow((((document.frm.fg.temp * 1.8) + 32)), 3)))) + (document.frm.fg.value * 0.001);&#xA;&#xA;  // Rest of the function&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-07-31T18:41:09.313" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T18:41:09.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10406" CreationDate="2013-07-31T20:32:59.913" Score="4" ViewCount="1115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that secondary fermentation's upper limit is set by some balance between sugars remaining and alcohol content, is that fair to say?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would giving just a dash of flavour potentially wreck the secondary fermentation process? I am planning on bottling and throwing in a sucrose pellet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3677" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T21:06:41.567" Title="Would adding a small dash of whisky when bottling kill secondary fermentation?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10404" CreationDate="2013-07-31T20:46:51.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, there's no reason it should.  I make a Bourbon Vanilla Imperial Porter that gets 375 ml. of bourbon added at bottling.  It's strong beer even before the bourbon, and there has never been a problem carbonating it.  Unless adding the liquor pushed the beer over 12+% ABV, you should have no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T20:46:51.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10404" CreationDate="2013-07-31T21:06:41.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most brewers yeast has a alcohol tolerance of at least 10%, so if your beer was around or under 10% then carbonation and conditioning will continue as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your beer is pushing that limit check the tolerance of the yeast you used - some yeasts have a much higher alcohol tolerance, meaning you'll still be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T21:06:41.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-31T22:14:57.727" Score="2" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering making a frambozen for my next brew, as it should be a crowd-pleaser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan for the raspberries is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Blanch raspberries&#xA;Pulp Raspberries (in a blender probably)&#xA;Separate (in water) the sucrose, reduce&#xA;Put pulp in an infuser&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bagged pulp and sugars I would then drop in to a brew after the first week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to imagine how you might do this without too much transferring of materials (and I have one vat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that seem reasonable, or am I way off the mark?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3677" LastEditorUserId="3677" LastEditDate="2013-08-01T19:38:46.777" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T04:18:55.130" Title="Is this a reasonable Frambozen tactic?" Tags="|fruit|belgian|fruit-extract|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10411" CreationDate="2013-07-31T22:45:41.413" Score="2" ViewCount="3820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working from an ESB recipe that says to put 1 oz of whole leaf tettnanger hops in to dry hop during the secondary fermentation. I accidentally got pellet hops instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I get away with dry hopping with the pellet hops? And if so, should I scale back how much of it I use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3102" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T08:49:09.777" Title="dry hopping with pellet hops" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|substitution|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10408" CreationDate="2013-08-01T00:14:49.250" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your recipe is written as one once by weight, which I can't think of any reason why it shouldn't be. You should be fine with dry hopping and late additions. So as long as the pellets are the flavor you are going for you should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dry hop all the time with pellets and I don't use bags or strainers and I get excellent flavor and no haze problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastEditorUserId="3647" LastEditDate="2013-08-01T12:57:23.490" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T12:57:23.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10408" CreationDate="2013-08-01T00:57:38.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try putting them in a paint strainer bag or muslin bag.  Since the pellets will fall apart to small shreds, they are likely to funnel through when you siphon off the beer.  If you keep them in a bag, only a little bit of the hops will come through and settle out to the bottom quickly.  The rest won't make their way through the bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as pellets vs. hops, there are claims made in the efficiency difference between the two, claiming pellets have better efficiency than whole leaf, but when it comes to dry hopping, as long as the whole leafs are submerged, you likely won't notice the difference.  The pellets will sink easily, whereas the leaves will take much longer, well after the recommended 1-2 weeks for dry hopping, reducing the efficiency of the hops.  Either way, throw either of them in a bag, weight it with sterilized and clean marbles or coins, and you're good going forward with the amount you planned for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-08-01T03:16:46.940" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T03:16:46.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10408" CreationDate="2013-08-01T10:54:35.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding essential oils for flavor and aroma, pellet hops typically have less than whole leaf hops due to processing, so you may want to add a touch more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This BYO article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/569-dry-hopping-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dry hopping techniques&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since pellet hops are more highly processed than plugs or loose hops,&#xA;  there is some concern that volatile oils are lost. When using pellets&#xA;  for dry hopping, you may want to add a little more than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to use a bag with pellet hops, since they do sink to the bottom and can be avoided with careful racking. But if you're going to use a bag, be sure to boil the bag and add 10-15% more hops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Another issue with bagging is that it tends to reduce the hops&#xA;  exposure to the beer. To account for this, you may want to use 10–15%&#xA;  more when bagging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that dry hopping is not an exact science - 1oz is a safe starting amount but you will discover in time whether this is the right amount for you. Regardless of the amount, be sure to remove the hops after 2 weeks max to avoid harsher grassy flavors (at least, that's my experience when using European hops.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-08-02T08:49:09.777" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T08:49:09.777" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2013-08-01T11:26:31.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize most people here are talking about beer...but I've made both wine and beer, and have never used a secondary fermentation (apart from making apple wine into apple beer). If I've added flavors, such as cinnamon, to apple and/or pear wine, I boiled the sticks/other ingredients in the sterilization/flavor extract process, and that was that. Why add a potentially infectious vector to what you've sterilized prior? Many, many people have complimented my wines/beers, and only one (an amateur wine snob) had anything bad to say. Why add another step? If it's not clear, which it should be after bottling, rack it out of the bottle after a day of settling (most wont have to do this), then serve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3680" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T11:26:31.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10414" CreationDate="2013-08-02T04:12:19.840" Score="3" ViewCount="1225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently taken advantage of White Labs switch to year-round availability of WLP090, as this rocket fuel of a yeast strain is very attenuative, very clean, fast, and floccuates beautifully.  I love it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just brewed a wonderful double IPA (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2013/04/ipa-clone-series-stone-enjoy-by-ipa.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recipe is here&lt;/a&gt;, seriously, go brew this beer), using two vials of WLP090 in a whopping starter, and the trub/yeast at the bottom of this carboy is massive.  I would have enough yeast to be set for months.  Problem is, it's ~10-11% ABV (attenuated past the 9.4% I expected, I won't complain).  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp090-san-diego-super-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Lab's description of the yeast&lt;/a&gt; says that it's alcohol tolerance is &quot;high&quot;, so I assume it can take a beating past the typical 13%, but I doubt that I want to push it up towards it's limits before washing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a general rule of thumb, a safe percent of alcohol by volume for when the yeast is just too stressed to wash and re-use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T03:37:57.937" Title="How high in ABV can a beer be before the yeast is too stressed to re-use?" Tags="|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10413" CreationDate="2013-08-02T05:02:24.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ROT is to not reuse yeast from an OG higher than 1.060.  I've succesfully pushed that to 1.073.  That assumes a healthy pitchin the first place.  I've also taken a bit of slurry from a higher OG and used it o make a new starter.  At the OG of your beer, I'd be leery.  You should use some to make a starter and carefully assess its health before using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T05:02:24.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10416" CreationDate="2013-08-02T15:24:04.377" Score="-1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which synthetic resins are suitable for fabrication of plumbing components e.g pipe sections, metering?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm trying to find an easy way to mold/house/en-case a custom designed data logger.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm trying to avoid the complexities of molding HDPE or fibre glass reinforced plastics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The logger monitors piped water for pressure, temperature &amp;amp; possibly flow rates, implying that . I'd also like to use it outdoors so it would be nice if the housing likes UV rays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3687" LastEditorUserId="3687" LastEditDate="2013-08-03T13:20:26.033" LastActivityDate="2013-08-03T13:20:26.033" Title="Liquid plastic resin for plumbing application" Tags="|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-08-04T18:00:40.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10415" CreationDate="2013-08-02T20:30:21.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing you are talking about making a data logger to monitor fermentation temps, mash temps, etc.  Your question is quite vague and you need to clarify it to get better answers.  What temps are you talking about, environmental conditions, etc.  What parts are going to contact the beer/wort?  A drawing would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used weatherproof electrical boxes to house electronics.  Several websites, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/&lt;/a&gt; sell stainless fittings that you can use for tubing or enclosing temp probes.  I use high temp food grade silicone tubing in my rig along with stainless steel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sealing purposes or molding parts to hold electronics, you can use Sugru (&lt;a href=&quot;https://sugru.com/about&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://sugru.com/about&lt;/a&gt;), which should handle most of your needs.  It works like putty, cures overnight, handles high and low temps, and bonds pretty well to most surfaces.  It remains somewhat flexible (like silicone) which may be good or bad based on your specific use.  Be careful in that Sugru has a short shelf life (must use in 6 months) and is not certified food-safe, although its properties seem to indicate that it should be.  Their website says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once cured, sugru is inert, but people can be allergic to anything, so we have to tell you to be careful. sugru isn't certified as food safe yet, but we're working on it. For now, please resist the urge to eat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T20:30:21.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-03T20:33:04.197" Score="4" ViewCount="2560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that some Mazers never let fruit sit in their fermenting wine or mead for more than two weeks while others will leave the cap for the entire time.  Is there any measured science behind the optimal amount of time to leave fruit in for taste or fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3427" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T19:16:22.607" Title="Is there an Optimal Amount of Time to Leave Fruit in a Melomel's Primary or Secondary Fermentation?" Tags="|mead|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8063" CreationDate="2013-08-05T20:31:19.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Grolsch bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For newly bought bottles: place them upside down in a pint glass of water. After  5 minutes, the lables come off easily. Remove remaining glue with a sponge or scrub pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my own labels I use milk as glue. They come off easily when they get wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said before, rinse the bottles right after use (or at the end of the night). Put an inch of water in the bottle, close it, and shake it good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afer that I place the bottles in the dish washer. My dishwasher has a sani rinse and a drying option, which I use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is something still stuck after dishwashing, use a bottle brush. Happens to me with about 1 in 30 or 40 bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let open bottles dry (at the Window with air blowing through, or in the Texas sun).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close and store for use. I just grab them as they are from the shelf when I bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T20:31:19.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10141" CreationDate="2013-08-05T21:05:27.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes put a whole Serano pepper in each bottle. This is similar to Cave Creek's (www.chilibeer.com) chili beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat varies depending on the pepper and ranges from insanely hot to crazy insanely hot. Try to get straight peppers that go in and come out of the bottles easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 12 weeks or so the peppers started disintegrating. It's probably best to not let it sit that long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting the peppers in the bottles has the advantage that you can try this with as few as you like instead of risking the whole batch. You don't need to boil or otherwise prepare the peppers cause the beer at bottling time has hops and alcohol for preservation against some wild yeast that may stuck be to the pepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T21:05:27.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8063" CreationDate="2013-08-05T21:15:15.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like others have said (and John Palmer as well, IIRC), if you rinse your bottles after pouring, you minimise the work you need to do on bottling day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill up both basins in the sink with warm water. Place your unsanitised bottles to the left of the basins, and prepare a drying area (eg a towel) to the right. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add no-rinse sanitiser to the basin on the right. (I use One-step).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Submerge 6 bottles (or as many as will fit) in the rinse basin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab two bottles out of the rinse basin, empty them by swirling the water out (to create a vortex in the bottle mouth and allow air to get through -- this is a trick that will save you a lot of time cleaning bottles), then submerge them in the sanitiser basin. Repeat until the rinse basin is empty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat step 3 (6 bottles into the rinse basin).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Empty the sanitiser basin as per step 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat 3-6 until all the bottles are sanitised. I find this takes me about half an hour or so for one batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3694" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T21:15:15.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10067" CreationDate="2013-08-05T21:21:54.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could do without priming, it's just not practicable. If you have a quick fermentation sample and know what the final gravity will be, you can check on the fermenter every couple of hours and when the gravity gets close enough to the FG, you bottle. In German, this is called &lt;code&gt;Grünschlauchen&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In real life, your need for sleep, a day job, social interactions, and such will probably make this difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T21:21:54.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10266" CreationDate="2013-08-05T22:11:18.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it hop vines are pretty vigorous (growing to be up to 3m tall in one season), so yes, I would worry about them choking out grapes (or at least competing for leaf space) if they were planted to use the same trellis. Of course, like most close plantings, they may work fine, just with somewhat lowered yields each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should try it for one season, and if there's too much competition, then just dig up the hop rhizomes at the end of the year and replant them somewhere else in the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3694" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T22:11:18.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-05T22:26:40.570" Score="1" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a kettle-soured Berliner Weisse with an OG of 1.034. After two weeks fermenting at around 70 (raised to 72 at the end) with a packet of Safale US-05, it got down to 1.014, apparent attenuation of 58%. The malt bill is also about 7% acidulated malt. Mash temp was low, about 148. Souring was done in the kettle with some unmilled malt, insulated, kept at 100-110 for about 48 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that that the low pH can lead to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2012/01/souring-beer-with-acid-malt-ithaca.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;low attenuation&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/berliner-weisse-full-sour-wort-314653/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;. I'm wondering - what are normal attenuation rates for ale yeast in sour worts with high-acid/low-pH? I've also heard of people hitting attenuation in the 80s with Berliners as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T04:15:51.900" Title="What is the normal attenuation for sour wort (specifically Berliner Weisse)?" Tags="|attenuation|sour|berliner-weisse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10426" CreationDate="2013-08-06T15:09:49.163" Score="5" ViewCount="3501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been planning to experiment with orange peels for a while now, but I don't know when to add them, when should I throw them in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last 15 minutes with the aroma hops? At flame-out? After primary? I have no idea really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere that citric acid and other compounds in oranges can be harmful for the yeast or inhibit their activity. Should I use fresh peels or dried ones, what are the chemical nuances to orange use in homebrew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any advice or pointer, links and articles are very welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3485" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T13:54:01.250" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T13:54:01.250" Title="When should I add orange peels to my homebrew?" Tags="|yeast|techniques|ingredients|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10425" CreationDate="2013-08-06T15:35:17.113" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on what you're after.  Traditionally, dried bitter orange peel is added late in the boil for bitterness.  Dried or fresh sweet orange peel can be added late in the boil for a bit of flavor, and fresh sweet orange peel can be added to the secondary for aroma.  So, you need to think about and define what it is you want the orange peel to do in order to decide when and how to use it and what type to use.  BTW, there is not enough citric acid in orange peels to worry about the pH change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2013-08-06T16:16:52.350" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T16:16:52.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10400" CreationDate="2013-08-06T23:16:34.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtarget.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewtarget&lt;/a&gt;. It's a java open source utility that does all you need for brewing beer, including equipment calculations, mash/ sparge temps, estimates pre boil, post boil and finishing volumes and gravity, IBU, SRM and has some nice recipe and brewday instruction printouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T23:16:34.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-07T00:19:39.087" Score="0" ViewCount="7509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I followed the instruction, but did one week more on secondary fermentation than it is supposed to be. After I bottled it, one week passed i didn't see any bubbles in the bottle. Did the yeast run out and no more further carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3700" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T00:21:42.647" Title="My beer is not carbonating in bottles" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3661" CreationDate="2013-08-07T03:43:24.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a drop of this product were, liberally speaking, 1 mL, then 1 mL / 18.9 L (or 5 gal) = 1/18,900 = 5.291 x 10^-5.  And (5.291 x 10^-5) x 1,000,000 is equal to 52.9 ppm.  This is above the allowable level stated by FDA.  However, if a drop of this stuff is actually much less (eg, water is  approx 50 to 70 µL per drop) than 1 mL, say 0.10 mL, then 52.9 ppm/10 would be almost two times below the allowable level at 5.3 ppm.   I think it would be safe without filtering before packaging the beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3701" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T03:43:24.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1431" CreationDate="2013-08-07T04:16:05.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Grolsch bottles for 10+ years with no problems. The gaskets seem to provide a better seal than the standard 500ml brown swingtops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T04:16:05.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10428" CreationDate="2013-08-07T15:21:32.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you bottle condition, two things must happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You add a small amount of sugar (usually dextrose) before bottling, which ferments and produces CO2.  If you add too much, bottles explode.  Too little, and the beer will be less fizzy.  Typically 1/2 to 2/3 of a cup for 22L of beer.  Since this is fermenting, the temperature will have some impact on how long this takes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once the CO2 is produced, it needs to be absorbed into the beer.  This takes time.  If you open a bottle and it hisses but the beer is flat, the CO2 did not absorb into the beer yet.  It is easier for CO2 to absorb if the temperature is lower.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can often take 2 weeks for this process to complete, and at 4 weeks the beer's taste will improve.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably being impatient - or you forgot step 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3666" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T15:21:32.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-07T23:19:32.687" Score="2" ViewCount="3252" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Crap, it appears I mislead myself. Northern Brewer includes a temperature range of the particular Wyeast you are using, and I assumed this temperature range factored out off-flavors. I read on this stackexchange that it is a good idea to let the temperatures rise after the initial 3-5 days of fermentation. I assumed this meant to the top of the temperature range specified by NB/Wyeast. My Belgian Ale I allowed to go roughly 78*F during the day times. My Cream Ale I allowed to go specifically 71-72*F nearly round the clock. Regardless, I enjoyed this discussion and learned something about yeast starters and temperature!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used a yeast starter for my last 3 batches. Two of these batches are bottle conditioning for carbonation, but I took two of them out to test a few days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were so full of esters that my neighbor referred to the first one as &quot;Bananna Beer&quot;, and the second one as &quot;Strawberry Beer&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the batches that I am annoyed about in particular was a Belgian Trippel that took about 6 weeks (+2 weeks bottle conditioning) and required a secondary, and was the most expensive extract I've bought so far. The other batch was a creme ale that took 2 weeks (+ 2 weeks bottle conditioning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had the fruity-beer problem because I've done a fantastic job at controlling temperature with a swamp cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I can't use a mini-swamp cooler with my yeast-starters, as my home-made stir-plate can't hang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is fruity flavoring always and everwhere a side effect of high-temperature and ester production, or may sanitation problems also generate fruity flavoring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If fruity flavoring is always and everwhere formed by high-temperatures, is it better to forgo a yeast starter if it is not possible to control the temperature of the yeast starter? I also figured that maybe a 12 hour yeast starter at night time would be better than 72 hours in higher heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2013-08-09T03:52:29.043" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T03:52:29.043" Title="Is a yeast-starter without temperature control worse than no yeast-starter at all?" Tags="|temperature|yeast-starters|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10064" CreationDate="2013-08-08T01:12:21.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading a little about humulone isomerisation, it seems that both Ca2+ and Mg2+ ions catalyse the reaction, while aqueous alkali is also mentioned (see e.g. Table 8.2 in However, Brewing: Science and Practice by Chris A. Boulton and Peter A. Brookes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three are present in your tap water but not in the distilled. I would conclude that the bitterness you observed was indeed due to some isomerisation occurring in the tap water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3694" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T01:12:21.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10432" CreationDate="2013-08-08T02:23:37.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;(To echo a comment on your post…) the temperature of the &lt;em&gt;starter&lt;/em&gt; shouldn't affect the larger batch. Please describe the temperature control of the ferment itself, plus please describe the parameters of the starter. Both fermentation temp issues and/or underpitching (which might still be the case if your starter just isn't big enough).  Also, what did you do for wort oxygenation and nutrients on the Tripel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T02:23:37.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10432" CreationDate="2013-08-08T06:48:28.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get esters from under-pitching as well as high temperature control, so skipping the yeast starter will be much worse than a starter without temp control, since you will be significantly underpitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing the Trippel was a fairly big beer, for which you need a proportionally larger yeast starter and then some. A 1.080 beer would need a 4 liter starter (2l if on a stir-plate.)  4l is a significant part of a 5gal (19l) beer and could affect the taste of the beer, particularly a light flavored beer like a Trippel - given that starters should be fermented warm, it could easily have been a fruit-bomb. That's why it's advised not to pitch the starter wort but decant and pitch only the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While your swamp cooler may have worked well for other beers, the increased rate of fermentation for the big beer could have pushed the temperature up higher than in previous brews. Also, swamp coolers do suffer temperature swings which produce further stresses on the yeast and more esters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T07:14:31.507" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T07:14:31.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10432" CreationDate="2013-08-08T15:32:12.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, unless the starter temp goes over maybe 90F, there is no damage to the yeast itself.  second, for a starter of the size that you'll need for a tripel, the best course of action is to decant the spent wort before pitching so it won't have any flavor effect on your beer.  remember, with a starter you're growing yeast, not making beer, and a starter generally grows better at warmer temps.  Another thing to be aware of is that temp ranges listed by yeast manufacturers are based on yeast performance, not what makes the best beer.  You will almost always make better beer by avoiding the higher end of the range.  Even if you do use a higher temp, you should start the fermentation at a lower temp for the first few days, when the majority of esters are produced.  Now to your specific questions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) Ester production is not always caused by high temperatures.  That's just one factor.  Another is pitching rate.  Contrary to what has been repeated over the years, a too high a picthing rate can lead to increased esters due to the effects of the enzyme acetyl CoA.  This has been cited both by Neva Parker of White Labs as welll as Dr. Clayton Cone of Lallemand.  her's a link to Dr. Cone's statement.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.danstaryeast.com/articles/yeast-growth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.danstaryeast.com/articles/yeast-growth&lt;/a&gt;  Ms. Parker talks about it here in her presentation &quot;Yeast Mythbusters&quot;, although you have to be an AHA member to access the info..&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/presentations/pdf/2012/1616-08%20Fermentation%20Mythbusters%20-%20Neva%20Parker.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/presentations/pdf/2012/1616-08%20Fermentation%20Mythbusters%20-%20Neva%20Parker.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) It is absolutely NOT better to forgo a starter in higher temps.  As noted above, you want to let the starter ferment to completion, then decant the spent wort.  Even if that wort has a high level of esters, the yeast slurry will carry them into the beer.  A 12 hour starter doesn't give you enough time for the starter to ferment out and drop the yeast so you can decant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T15:56:55.207" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T15:56:55.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10440" CreationDate="2013-08-08T20:38:34.217" Score="2" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use a large jug, such as a Carlo Rosse bottle, with an added airlock as a carboy for fermentation? Are there any issues with this or things I should make sure to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T20:42:49.520" Title="Makeshift carboy" Tags="|carboy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10438" CreationDate="2013-08-08T20:42:16.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no reason you can't do that, assuming thorough cleaning and sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T20:42:16.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10438" CreationDate="2013-08-08T20:42:49.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure. At the end of the day, a carboy is just a container. They're not rated for pressure, they're not thermally-hardened, they're … just a container. Glass is glass is glass.  (Plastics come in various types; oxygen permeability and surface roughness are particular concerns). You might have &quot;trouble&quot; finding the right size airlock for the opening, but airlocks are overrated anyways. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T20:42:49.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10381" CreationDate="2013-08-09T03:21:01.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast activity will lag longer than a day if the cell count is low. &#xA;For a 5gal batch, one pouch is generally considered a medium-to-low cell count. Some people just buy 2 pouches, other people make their own starter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are shooting for the pitch yeast to reproduce about 3 generations before reaching the population levels where fermentation really gets going - you can mess with pitch calculators, but you can also do it by feel as well via making a starter. A starter has the added benefit of being able to verify the yeast is active &amp;amp; healthy, and free of contaminants. Pitching rate this isn't a huge deal: you still get beer. But the lag time affects yeast metabolism, and thus the flavour biochemistry of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other tip: in any case you really want have your yeast population healthy and ready to go a day BEFORE brew day. So either make the starter about 3 days before you brew, or pop those yeast pouches ~24 hours or more ahead of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the yeast cake from a previous batch will work if done quickly &amp;amp; cleanly, but it's better to understand yeast washing, nutrition, and viability if you're planning to do this repetitively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your final gravity could be low due to high yeast attenuation, but it's also possible that this is related to the mash, grain or extract used, fermentation temperature, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3711" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T03:21:01.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10407" CreationDate="2013-08-09T03:41:43.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say your plan sounds reasonable, if a bit involved. A stab at your primary question: to avoid hassle you'll want to use a mesh bag of some kind, to keep solids out, and the beer clear. It needs to be BIG so that you get good surface area exposed in solution. Also tie it to a string so you can pull it out when finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a few thoughts went up in my head based on your description so here's that too:&#xA;- In general I find it's better to make the beer, then worry about the fruit etc after primary fermentation dies down. You can taste-test before doing the addition, and there's more alcohol present for better flavor extraction. If you do a secondary rack, that might be a good time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I would definitely stress that you pasteurize all fruit that goes into your beer - not pasteurizing is a good way to get an infection! Frozen fruit can a good choice for this; dump it straight on in there. Beyond cleanliness, I'm wondering why you're troubling to process the berries as described. Still it all seems ok. But definitely pasteurize!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You stated this is a framozen, out of curiosity are you doing a lambic fermentation (which takes a looong time) or some other kind of ale? Either way, my advice about using fruit is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3711" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T03:41:43.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10423" CreationDate="2013-08-09T04:15:51.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to mash-in my berliner at 150 F, and then just let it cool down to 120 F or so. From there my souring process was pretty much identical to yours. &#xA;But, I usually pitched straight L delbruckii, with a followup pitch of WLP630 or some other ale yeast(s). With multiple organisms at work, there's more potential for attenuation, and I would always see the equivalent of 80% - dry enough that we didn't worry about it, to say the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trick I always liked: throw in an active starter of champagne yeast, and let it run. This will get your berliner dry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have much experience with US-05 - Fermentis claims it'll do 81% apparent attenuation, but I understand that in practice 70% is more in the range of reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One observation: did you take a pH reading? Not knowing the exact mash bill/story, you might just be assuming your wort is/was highly acidic, though with that much acid malt I guess it's probably the case!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3711" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T04:15:51.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3617" CreationDate="2013-08-09T14:54:03.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using your oven, it's dry-heat which takes MUCH longer than what water or steam could accomplish.  For dry-heat sterilization:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;338°F (170°C) 60 minutes&#xA;320°F (160°C) 120 minutes&#xA;302°F (150°C) 150 minutes&#xA;284°F (140°C) 180 minutes&#xA;250°F (121°C) 12 hours (Overnight)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, granted that's sterilization not sanitation, but once it comes out of the oven, it's exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3712" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T14:54:03.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-09T16:40:01.743" Score="1" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a kegged batch of beer (Munich lager) that was quite sweet prior to fully carbonating. After carbonating there's a significant bitterness - not a hop bitterness (there is little in this batch), but a plain lacklustre bitter/salty - middle-back of the tongue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed similar things in previous batches which makes me wonder if this is the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; and carbonic acid at work. When I decant the beer several times to reduce the carbonation, the bitterness is greatly reduced and the malt/sweetness returns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be sure, I should probably do an experiment and measure temperature after decanting since that also affects taste, but is it normal to adjust a recipe to account for carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T16:19:22.223" Title="Should you adjust residual sweetness to account for carbonation level in a beer?" Tags="|carbonation|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10447" CreationDate="2013-08-09T19:09:54.823" Score="2" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very simple question. I have a batch of German wine that will yield 2.5 gallons. Is there any issue with using a 6 gallon glass carboy to let it ferment in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T19:48:52.223" Title="Using a much larger than necessary carboy" Tags="|carboy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10446" CreationDate="2013-08-09T19:48:52.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That will be fine.  The extra headspace could possibly encourage oxidation, but if you don't open it frequently you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T19:48:52.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10449" CreationDate="2013-08-10T04:27:04.507" Score="1" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you bottle Federweisser at the point where you want to drink it and have it not keep fermenting? I have heard that the bottles may explode if you just bottle it normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-08-10T15:45:26.980" LastActivityDate="2013-08-10T18:54:22.293" Title="Federweisser bottling" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10448" CreationDate="2013-08-10T15:44:49.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you take steps to kill or disable the yeast, it will continue to ferment. Fermentation produces CO2, which can generate enough pressure to cause bottles to explode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct dose of potassium sorbate and potassium metabisulphite can accomplish this, but may leave a chemical taste in the wine. The simplest thing is to bottle the wine in plastic (PET) bottles, and immediately refrigerate them. The cold temperatures will reduce yeast activity, and the plastic bottles will remove the risk of explosion and injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that fermentation will continue even in the refrigerated wine -- it will just proceed slowly. You're advised to drink the wine quickly after bottling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar question was asked in the context of ginger beer, which suffers from the same challenge: how to keep unfermented sugars in the finished, carbonated product:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10089/ginger-beer-that-lasts&quot;&gt;Ginger beer that lasts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-08-10T18:54:22.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10445" CreationDate="2013-08-10T15:54:05.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, no, it isn't a normal practice to adjust a beer recipe to solely account for carbonation.  OTOH, I build recipes that will taste the way I want them to taste when I drink the beer, so in that case I guess you could say I do adjust.  I think the bottom line is that it's up to you.  If you feel that the carbonic acid adds a bite you don't like, adjust for it.  whether it's &quot;normal&quot; or not, if that's what you like, thagt's what you should do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-08-10T15:54:05.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10327" CreationDate="2013-08-11T18:03:12.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally got a chance to do another brew yesterday, and try the stopper again.  This time, I inserted it only once, and it stuck.  Since then, it seems to have pushed out juuuuust a little, but it seems good.  The blowoff is bubbling like a perfect heartbeat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FICFd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stopper&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-08-11T18:03:12.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-11T22:25:09.187" Score="8" ViewCount="5130" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now I give my corny kegs and beer lines a hot rinse, PBW soak, rinse and Starsan in-between batches. I inspect for gunk but don't fully disassemble (posts, etc.) unless there's something obviously wrong. I usually re-lube the lid O-ring to ensure a good fit, but nothing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a rule of thumb for how often to completely disassemble and re-lube a keg? Does the lubricant degrade? Are there places I can't see where gunk builds up that I should check more frequently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is curiosity only. I'm not currently having any problems.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T16:19:30.663" Title="How often should a keg be disassembled and cleaned?" Tags="|keg|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10452" CreationDate="2013-08-12T16:01:56.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know a lot of people that are in the same boat as you, only cleaning them thoroughly every several batches without issue.  I personally disassemble my kegs every time, giving them a good oxi-clean/PBW soak, using my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fruugo.us/carboy-cleaner/p-1520487?gclid=CN3P1OP29rgCFUyk4AodAGAArw#s-3657369?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=product%2bsearch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carboy cleaner&lt;/a&gt; to ensure it gets a good thorough scrub. I use a brush to get into the dip tube, soak the posts, and then do a thorough rinse and let it soak with Star San for a bit while I hit every bit of rubber from the gaskets inside the posts to the lid with lube.  A tube of that lube will last the average homebrewer a lifetime, so there's no need to be conservative with it.  The posts, connectors, and taps are likely the places where if there is any build-up, that's where it will be.  Unless you're moving your kegs around a lot, they will remain settled , therefor likely never touching the lid or anything at the top of the keg past the initial fill-line (plus whatever minimal displacement from CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; with carbonation).  When doing a quick cleaning, you should run some no-rinse sanitizer under pressure through the keg if you don't want to remove the posts/hoses/taps, to ensure everything is flushed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're fine in your methods, by your lack of issues.  The only recommendation I have is when you do your soaks, attach a CO2 connector to the out-post (just the connector, nothing attached to it which would close it off), as it is likely that the closed-off post may not allow for the PBW/Sanitizer solution to get up into the dip tube (think of holding a cup upside down and pushing it into water, no liquid will get into the cup as long as it's upside down). Having the connector on the post will allow for your cleaning/sanitization solution to get up into the dip tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a word of caution, make sure to keep all your posts, gaskets, every bit and piece with the keg that it came from.  If you are cleaning multiple kegs at the same time, do not mix and match posts, lids, the little stem that acts as a gasket inside of the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;-in post, or anything like that.  From experience, some time ago I purchased a keg, and along side it cleaned two others.  One of them has a bad dented post that leaks terribly, I mixed and matched the parts out of recklessness, and now I have a mess of parts that either aren't threaded to fit properly, or the inner stem doesn't fit correctly in all kegs, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T16:01:56.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10452" CreationDate="2013-08-12T16:19:30.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all you are using the keg for is dispensing, and the keg is not sitting somewhere room temp for a while in-between filling, what you are doing will most likely not impact you negatively.  Leaving the keg with only a rinse style cleaning at room temperature is asking for bacterial growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The poppets in the posts tend to build up gunk in the springs that can be difficult to clean simply by the beer sitting on them.  The o-rings, poppets, and pressure relief valve will get some beer under/between them and you cannot guarantee that proper cleaning or sanitation occurred.  You should also use a brush to clean the dip tube. I would not consider a keg that was not fully disassembled to be sanitized.  Therefore, if you are also using your kegs as secondaries, I'd make sure to disassemble them when cleaning and sanitizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your dispensing equipment should ALWAYS be cleaned via disassembly and brush, especially because of the plastic bits.  There is no way to assure a proper cleaning without doing this.  I'm sure you have been to bars where the tap beers, especially the rotating ones, have an off-taste - this is because they do not properly clean and brush the dispensing equipment when they change to a different keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also suggest replacing the o-rings when you do disassemble them.  Folks have a tendency to overtighten the posts, pinching them, thus making the o-rings unreusable.  The lid o-rings, unless pinched by not paying attention, rarely need replaced.  The o-rings, purchased in bulk, are quite inexpensive from an industrial supplier like McMaster:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DipTube: ID 5/16&amp;quot;, OD 1/2&amp;quot; (AS568A Dash Number 109) McMaster 9452K172 Buna-N $2.21 per 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post: ID 7/16&amp;quot;, OD 5/8&amp;quot; (AS568A Dash Number 111) McMaster 9452K23 Buna-N $2.48 per 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lid: ID 3 1/2&amp;quot;, OD 4&amp;quot; (AS568A Dash Number 417) McMaster 9452K218 Buna-N $12.69 per 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a restaurant supply store in your area, I'd suggest getting a food grade silicone spray or squeeze tube - it doesn't take much of either to make a good seal and is generally cheaper than at the online stores when you figure shipping in.  You should re-lube every time you loosen a fitting with an o-ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T16:19:30.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1017" CreationDate="2013-08-12T16:23:40.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this question as a related one to one I just answered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest replacing the post/dip-tube o-rings every time you disassemble them.  Folks have a tendency to overtighten the posts, pinching them, thus making the o-rings unreusable.  The lid o-rings, unless pinched by not paying attention, rarely need replaced.  The o-rings, purchased in bulk, are quite inexpensive from an industrial supplier like McMaster:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DipTube: ID 5/16&amp;quot;, OD 1/2&amp;quot; (AS568A Dash Number 109) McMaster 9452K172 Buna-N $2.21 per 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post: ID 7/16&amp;quot;, OD 5/8&amp;quot; (AS568A Dash Number 111) McMaster 9452K23 Buna-N $2.48 per 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lid: ID 3 1/2&amp;quot;, OD 4&amp;quot; (AS568A Dash Number 417) McMaster 9452K218 Buna-N $12.69 per 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a restaurant supply store in your area, I'd suggest getting a food grade silicone spray or squeeze tube - it doesn't take much of either to make a good seal and is generally cheaper than at the online stores when you figure shipping in.  You should re-lube every time you loosen a fitting with an o-ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T16:23:40.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10465" CreationDate="2013-08-12T17:43:12.863" Score="3" ViewCount="1170" Body="&lt;p&gt;Am hoping to get some fresh hops this year and was thinking about the best way to put them into my wort. Was trying to come up with a way to add them to secondary for dry hopping without causing a potential infection. What I came up with was to drop them in boiling water for 5 minutes to sterilize their outsides and then quickly cool down that water. Then let them steep in RT water for a while (a day or so). Then add this sterilized tea and hops to the secondary fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever tried this? Or is there a more obvious method I am missing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1981" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T15:45:52.637" Title="Cold water extraction of hop flavors from fresh hops?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10458" CreationDate="2013-08-12T18:27:57.410" Score="2" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a home ale brew in a tub from a kit, and I added 20 teaspoons of sugar to the beer as instructed (the equivalent of 1 half teaspoon per bottle) but this was about 10 days ago. I haven't bottled it yet and I'm not likely to be able to for another 5 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was aware that the addition of the sugar was what caused the gases to accumulate. So after so long, have I ruined the brew? Is there some way to save it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3718" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T18:41:59.427" Title="How can I save my beer after long delay before bottling?" Tags="|ale|kits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10457" CreationDate="2013-08-12T18:41:59.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the brew is not ruined. It's actually quite a small amount of sugar, and that will have been fermented out now, assuming it was sitting at room temperature (at least 15&amp;deg;C/59&amp;deg;F)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply add the same quantity of sugar again and bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that may have happened with the delay is the beer may have picked up a yeast bite if it's still sitting on the yeast. Next time, aim to bottle 2-3 weeks max after pitching the yeast, or rack it off the yeast cake to a secondary carboy if you need to hold it for longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T18:41:59.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10456" CreationDate="2013-08-12T20:31:17.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your beer has already fermented down to FG, then the chance of infection is much lower than it is in the first couple of days.  I'd recommend simply dunking the hops in some regular sanitizing solution then adding them directly to your fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T20:31:17.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7852" CreationDate="2013-08-13T04:16:47.993" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A ginger bug is simply a lactic acid culture started from raw ginger root (with skin still on) and sugar mixed together in dechlorinated water. When you &quot;add the ginger bug&quot; to your drink recipe, you're adding the liquid from this culture after straining out the chopped ginger bits. After the ginger bug has been allowed to mature to a slightly fizzy state (usually after three days), the strained liquid will be sufficiently saturated with Lactobacillus to start fermenting sugars in whatever you add it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditional ginger bugs don't use any 'ginger beer plant', but I assume GPB could be used as well. Ginger Beer Plant is already its own culture/colony. A ginger bug is a means to grow a similar culture without having to procure it from an already established colony. Two different things, but either may be used in recipes calling for a lactid acid starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ginger bugs are more popular in the common kitchen than GBP because plain old ginger root is much easier to come by in a local grocery store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ginger bug does not provide enough ginger flavour for ginger ale. After you've grown a ginger bug, you must separately brew a batch of sweet ginger tea, enough tea to provide as much ginger ale as you wish to ferment, sweetened with enough sugar to further feed the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this ginger tea the strained ginger bug liquid is added. Generally, one cup of ginger bug per gallon of sweet tea is enough to do the trick. If you're left with extra ginger bug, you can leave the chopped ginger in it and refrigerate it in a sealed container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refrigerated, the culture will 'go to sleep' until you take it out, start feeding it sugar again, and leave it in a warm, dark place covered with a cloth to let it reawaken and turn fizzy again - adding some more water if you need the volume. Once it's fizzy again, you can use it to ferment a brand new batch of ginger tea into ginger ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3720" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-08-13T14:03:07.353" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T14:03:07.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10474" CreationDate="2013-08-13T13:08:09.613" Score="2" ViewCount="1184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to brewing, I've done 3 kits so far. Last time I brewed in a 23 litre, glass carboy but I found getting the malt extract into it really difficult. The only way I managed to do it was to dilute the extract separately in a saucepan and then add a little at a time through a funnel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you suggest a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastEditorUserId="3110" LastEditDate="2013-08-13T13:28:58.927" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T17:32:18.807" Title="Advice for filling a carboy" Tags="|techniques|carboy|kits|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10463" CreationDate="2013-08-13T14:01:31.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should definitely dilute the malt extract before adding to the carboy - this is to ensure that it is sanitary, that it mixes evenly in the carboy and to make it easier to handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many kits in fact require boiling the extract in ca. 2-3 times the amount of water to help reduce the viscosity of the liquid. Even if the kit says no boil, it's often just a marketing ploy, and it's still a good idea to dissolve the extract in hot (176&amp;deg;F/80&amp;deg;C) water in a pan to both soften and dilute the extract, and kill any microbes (e.g. bacteria on your tin opener) that could spoil the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then half fill the carboy with cold water, and pour in the extract through a funnel, then top up to the target volume. Pour the extract &quot;noisily&quot; so that it splashes about - this will provide oxygen for the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-08-14T14:59:46.577" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T14:59:46.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10456" CreationDate="2013-08-13T15:45:52.637" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you are missing a more obvious method..just throw them in the secondary!  You don't need to do anything at all to sanitize them and doing something could have negative effects on the quality of the hops.  I have dry hopped many, many batches of beer with my home grown hops and infection has never happened due to it.  As another example, Rogue has its own hop farm and they do nothing to sanitize the hops when they use them for dry hopping.  Not only do hops have natural antiseptic properties, but the time you dry hop the beer has an alcohol content and a low pH that makes it very resistant to infection.  Let the experience of many other home and commercial brewers be your guide!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T15:45:52.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10479" CreationDate="2013-08-13T15:52:47.537" Score="0" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my last homebrew when I transferred my beer to a bucket for bottling I noticed that the top had an oily shimmer to it. When I tried the beer a few weeks later the beer came out with pretty weak head and not enough bubbly. How do I remove that oily shimmer before bottling next time? Did it cause my problems, or was that something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T20:20:21.227" Title="Removing oily film" Tags="|head-retention|bubble|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10469" CreationDate="2013-08-13T16:15:23.343" Score="2" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following the suggestion of my LBS, I made an Oktoberfest using a hybrid yeast (Wyeast 2565) because I didn't have a lagering fridge set up yet--bought myself at least 2 weeks before needing to crash cool, and got a setup to chill in time. The problem is, when I did I accidentally chilled it a bit much--enough to make a layer of ice on the top (don't trust the thermometer enough for a reading to really matter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that will obviously change the flavor (don't know how), but my concern is that the wyeast will not activate again for bottling. Since I can't provide the lowest temperature it hit, I know no answer is definitive, but what are the chances enough survived to bottle, and reasonably how cold can wyeast get before it won't reactivate--or is that dependent on the strain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3723" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T16:43:56.077" Title="Accidentally frosted my hybrid Oktoberfest" Tags="|crash-cool|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10077" CreationDate="2013-08-13T16:30:20.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to do the exact same thing with a party pump and am stuck exactly where you are. It doesn't seem to fit any standard pipe thread sizes. The thread count seems slightly tighter than pipe thread (more threads per inch) and the diameter of the male thread is exactly 3/4&quot;. If anyone out there knows other thread standards besides Pipe threads that might work, where we could set an adaptor to a barb for a hose, that's what's needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, I'm thinking that a 3/8 male NPT fits pretty snug, and just dumping solder around the outside to hold it in there. Even Dumping JB weld around the threads and pushing in the pipe thread would probably hold under the 10-15psi that it will be holding. That's what I'm going to do if I can't figure out the actual threads. McMaster.com has all the fittings in stainless and tubing also. Would love to hear what you end up doing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: just found this &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/keg-pump-parts-pid-HP-700.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/keg-pump-parts-pid-HP-700.html&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;Looks like 3/4&quot;-18 Threads. Now just have to find an adaptor to a barbed fitting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3724" LastEditorUserId="3724" LastEditDate="2013-08-13T17:05:41.713" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T17:05:41.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10467" CreationDate="2013-08-13T16:43:56.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as it was just a layer of ice on the top, the yeast should still be fine, since the rest of the water was still at or above freezing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast can withstand very low temperatures - I freeze them in glycerine solution at -36&amp;deg;C/-32&amp;deg;F, while commercial yeast banks freeze yeast at much lower temperatures - ca. -60&amp;deg;C/-80deg;F. What kills them when freezing in mostly water is ice crystals that form, which penetrate and rupture the cell. But in your case, since the ice was just on top, most of the water didn't hit freezing and some of the yeast has still probably survived.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be totally certain you get carbonation when you prime, you could add 1/2 tsp dried yeast at bottling time (to the whole batch.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T16:43:56.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2276" CreationDate="2013-08-14T03:26:16.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm setting up a system to allow me to do all grain, haven't started yet. I am building my own wort chiller, and decided that it would be pretty wasteful just to use tap water to cool the wort, as it would use hundreds of litres of fresh drinking water!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I came up with the idea of recycling the cooling water through an ice bath. I have done some calculations based on the latent heat of the melting of ice, and figured out that 5 kg of ice (one bag of party ice in Australia) has the ability to cool a 22L wort by about 75 degrees C. When you add on the heat capacity of the water in the ice bath, reaching a good pitching temp should be very possible with only 1 bag of ice and 10-15L of tap water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My design for the wort chiller is pretty similar to what other have been outlining, except that I incorporate a submersible pump (the type you would use for a water feature in the garden) and an esky filled with ice water. All you need to do is attach a PVC tube from your pump to the chiller, then have the outflow from the chiller feed back into the esky. The ice will continually melt, keeping the water around 0 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have picked up a pump for $25 from my local garden store. Apart from saving water, this should also chill the wort quicker as it is using colder water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3725" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T03:26:16.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10472" CreationDate="2013-08-14T06:15:26.523" Score="2" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about setting up a bucket-o-water/t-shirt swamp cooler for my primary fermenter. The ambient temperature is about 82degF and I would like to ferment an American Ale around 74degF. I have two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Would cold water suffice or would I need to add ice packs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) What is the best way of measuring temperature of the wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for sharing your knowledge!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3627" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T13:24:26.617" Title="What is the best way to measure temperature in a swamp cooler?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|swamp-cooler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10471" CreationDate="2013-08-14T13:24:26.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold water alone will not drop your temperatures eight degrees.  You will need ice packs.  A more readily available option is to go out and buy a case of water bottles from the store, freeze a couple of bottles, and just rotate them out every 6-8 hours by placing them in the water of the swamp cooler.  Take an old cotton t-shirt and pull it over the top of the carboy/bucket, and set up a small fan to point at it on a low speed to try and slowly dry out the shirt, allowing it to wick up more water.  This should get you down to the temperature you need.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For measuring temperature, get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009CTP3YS&quot;&gt;stick-on thermometer strip&lt;/a&gt; to place on your carboy/bucket.  The way you'll want to do this is to make sure there's enough of a gap between the water line of the swamp cooler, and the top-off line of your carboy/bucket to place the strip (horizontal would be ideal).  In this gap, place your thermometer strip, that way it isn't measuring the temperature of the water in the bucket.  The beer will ferment at a higher temperature than it's ambient surrounding temperatures, therefor it isn't accurate to measure the water temperature, since it will be lower than the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, I've heard great things about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cool-brewing.com/&quot;&gt;cool-brewing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T13:24:26.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10163" CreationDate="2013-08-15T00:56:52.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The guys making BrewBit did exactly what you are asking.  Check out the first half of the &quot;Dual Probes&quot; video on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/brewbit/brewbit-model-t-wireless-temperature-controller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;kickstarter page&lt;/a&gt; or on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsvWg9QNYho&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt; Pretty nice system they built. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="3453" LastEditDate="2013-08-19T15:46:04.527" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T15:46:04.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10463" CreationDate="2013-08-15T01:22:34.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this a problem too when I occasionally ferment in a carboy (I usually use brew buckets for ease of cleaning some you may also want to look into as a 6.5 gallon carboy with lid will run you under 20 bucks. ). What I found worked out really great was my lhbs sells funnels with splash shields. Its nothing more than a really plastic piece that covers half the top edge but it stops you from missing the edge of the funnel. It also has a removable filter screen to filter your wort. Very nice and about 12 bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to the item.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thegrape.net/browse.cfm/funnel-10-in.-anti-splash/4,10141.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thegrape.net/browse.cfm/funnel-10-in.-anti-splash/4,10141.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastEditorUserId="3647" LastEditDate="2013-08-20T17:32:18.807" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T17:32:18.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10478" CreationDate="2013-08-15T06:43:57.983" Score="1" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a hold of some organic raw spelt that I would like to use in a wit instead of flaked wheat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to gelatinize the spelt?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I do that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should the grain be milled at some point?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much of the grain bill can be unmalted wheat?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2637" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T19:42:01.343" Title="Mashing raw spelt/dinkel" Tags="|techniques|mash|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10163" CreationDate="2013-08-15T07:44:54.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just had a cool idea, ya know the flapped contraption that connects the outflow tube from your dryer to the outside of your house? What if you connected a temp probe to your secondary temp control box and ran the powered end to a fan in your keezer, and put that fan in front of a similar flapped device that would allow your cold (or warm) air to flow into the secondary box when activated but then shut when the air flow stops? I think the concept is there but would be fun to play with! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have learned from my own fermentation chamber build that airflow is critical. Originally I just attached a small fridge to a box and quickly realized the air needs to be moved around for it to be effective (think of a walk in cooler, you always get hit with a blast from the fan!), that might be obvious for some but it was an afterthought/duh moment for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck Slacker man, sounds like a fun project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T07:44:54.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10163" CreationDate="2013-08-15T12:48:32.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're moving air, and the air can be cooled or heated to form the basis of energy transfer between the two chambers. So the system will work at some basic level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it may not transfer much energy between the chambers in relation to the efficiency and energy used. If the chambers are adjacent, then it might work, but if they are separated and you have ventilation air hoses connecting them, then you'll need a decent fan to overcome the static pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Volumetric Heat Capacity&lt;/em&gt; is the amount of energy stored per unit volume per degree. For air, it's about 0.001, and for water it's 4.17. So, for the same volume and temperature increase, water will absorb over 4000 times as much energy - this makes it a much more efficient carrier.  When using air, it will absorb a little energy and quickly rise in temperature to match it's surroundings, stopping the heat exchange early. This can be overcome by using a more powerful fan, but then this implies more cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, water carries more energy per increase in temperature. But water is not an ideal medium here, since there is a real chance of freezing. Mixing in 30% glycol/glycerine will reduce the freezing point to well below the freezing point of water. Of course, the downside with water is the additional hardware required - tube, pump etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that your goal is to make a simple way to chill a second chamber to 10&amp;deg;C from a 1&amp;deg;C source, then I think you can probably stick with using air. Just be sure to have both in and out feeds between the chambers to get the best airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T12:48:32.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10475" CreationDate="2013-08-15T14:38:49.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming spelt has the same properties as wheat, there's no need to gelatinize the spelt as a separate step. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&amp;amp;t=16799&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gelatinization temperature of wheat&lt;/a&gt; is low enough that it will occur at normal mashing temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should mill the wheat in the normal way. If you're using a two-row mill like the Barley Crusher, you could set the gap slightly smaller than what you use for malted barley. Wheat kernels are smaller than barley, so a smaller gap will ensure a good crush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much you can use depends on the makeup of the remainder of the grist. You want to make sure that the diastatic (enzyme) power of the mash is sufficient to convert the starches in a reasonable amount of time. Diastatic power is measured in degrees Lintner. For the mash to be self-converting, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diastatic_power#Diastatic_power&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;overall diastatic power should be at least 35&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sup&gt;o&lt;/sup&gt;L. Raw wheat provides no enzymes, so all the diastatic power of your mash will be coming from the other components of the grist. American 2-row malt is &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2010/01/04/diastatic-power-and-mashing-your-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;generally around 140&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sup&gt;o&lt;/sup&gt;L, so a 50/50 mix of unmalted wheat and 2-row would proved 70 &lt;sup&gt;o&lt;/sup&gt;L of diastatic power -- more than enough to convert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-08-15T19:42:01.343" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T19:42:01.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10466" CreationDate="2013-08-15T20:20:21.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW, its highly possible that the oily surface you observed &lt;strong&gt;is not at all related to your head and carbonation problems&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen that oily 'shimmer' on the top of several beers in primary, and like you, I was worried that some soap or something had gotten in there. However, I never noticed a correlation between the oily/rainbow sheen and any head problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what causes that little oil slick on top of the primary, but it could just be oils from the hops or something. Perhaps an adjunct like oats can add it too, who knows? Anyway, I would just make sure next time that you rinse all your gear real well to make sure there's no cleanser left behind, but don't freak out about it too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T20:20:21.227" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-16T14:23:35.590" Score="3" ViewCount="1211" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am planning a roggenbier, partially because I want to try one, but largely to grow up a cake to make 15 gallons of weizenbock.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hefe's are ok in my mind, but my palette basically just wants more malt character.  Voila rye instead of wheat, voila roggenbier.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to keep the roggenbier on the low end of the style guidelines, probably around 1.050.  Mr. M. Malty indicates that one vial into 5 gallons is underpitching by about half (need either 2 vials or 1L starter).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that the hefe yeasts from any lab are the masochists of the beer world.  Pitch warm: no problem.  Underpitch: no problem either.  I actually do want a good bit of banana and a little less clove to come through in this beer to balance the earth/grit of the rye, however I was planning on fermenting relatively low, around 62-63*.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;aaaaand now my question:  do I need to do a simple starter or would I be better off getting some good phenolics by stressing this yeast a little (a lot?)?  The last thing I want in this beer is fusels, but some good esters and weizen phenols would be great...oh and one final requirement: I'm trying to grow enough yeast for the weizenbock, MM says about a liter of slurry with 80% viability.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2013-08-16T16:57:09.663" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T18:12:35.310" Title="Purposely underpitching" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|hefeweizen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10480" CreationDate="2013-08-16T15:46:01.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adjusting pitching rate is a very iffy way to control a flavor profile.  How much do you underpitch to get the effect you want?  How do you know your underpitching enough, assuming it even works?  Yeast selection and fermentation temp are much more controllable.  Also, a number of yeast specialists, such as Dr. Clayton Cone of Lallemand (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.danstaryeast.com/articles/yeast-growth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.danstaryeast.com/articles/yeast-growth&lt;/a&gt;) and Neva Parker of White Labs (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/lets-brew/homebrewing-seminars/2012&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/lets-brew/homebrewing-seminars/2012&lt;/a&gt;), have cited underpitching as producing fewer, rather than more, esters.  That said, if it's a 1.050 beer you could probably get away without a starter, although if it was me I'd use one.  In short, don't try to control esters with pitching rate...use more reliable methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-08-16T18:12:35.310" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T18:12:35.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10480" CreationDate="2013-08-16T17:08:05.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Underpitching/stressing the yeast is not a way to get a controlled result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 1/2 the recommended pitching rate wouldn't be a concern if you were fermenting warmer (66-68&amp;deg;F), but at 62&amp;deg;F I'd say you should at least start with the right amount of yeast, or you risk not least under-attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want less clove then ferment warmer also, and this will shift the balance towards banana. At 62&amp;deg;F I doubt you'll get much banana at all, especially if you underpitch. Also be sure to keep mash temps above 55&amp;deg;C/130&amp;deg;F to avoid creation of ferulic acid, which is the precursor to the clove flavor. (The actual rest temp is usually 43&amp;deg;C, but some breweries use 50&amp;deg;C - I'm saying a few degrees higher than that to be certain of headroom.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A liter of slurry from 5 gallons is on the top end of what you can expect and you'll need to basically use the entire cake. If you want it to be 80% viable then rack off primary and reuse the yeast cake when FG is hit or add to a jar with fresh wort for use a day or so later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T17:08:05.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5048" CreationDate="2013-08-19T02:28:55.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I had a 1600ml starter for my lager and it took off aggressively. I had to put a blow-off tube on my flask. I let the tube drop into about 3 inches of star-San. When the starter was all done, I had a good quarter inch of yeasties in the star-San. I have read all over these forums that that yeast would be useless. It was soaking in the star-San for 3 days. Not one to believe everything that I read on the web, I decided to see what it would do in a small starter. I cooked up half a liter of wort and threw the star-San yeasties in. 8 hours later, the starter is cooking off like a rocket. So, no matter what you read, don't dump your blow-off star-San yeasties - they might just surprise you. Oh, and this was a yeastie batch that I harvested from a lager fermented wit a wlp800 vial, mixed with a 25% glycine solution and had frozen for 3 months. Hardy bunch of bugs, eh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3735" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T02:28:55.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10413" CreationDate="2013-08-19T03:37:57.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;German author Hagen Rudolph claims to have brewed a 25% ABV beer (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hagenrudolph.de/Dokumente/Superstarkbier.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hagenrudolph.de/Dokumente/Superstarkbier.pdf&lt;/a&gt; (in German)) with WLP099 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp099-super-high-gravity-ale-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp099-super-high-gravity-ale-yeast&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T03:37:57.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-20T05:30:03.293" Score="1" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have what I think is a GoldenGate style keg. It's got a bunghole, a tapped hole on top and another near the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to mount a electric hot water heater element in the base hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base hole is 1.5&quot; in diameter and the thread is 2&quot; and ~.07&quot; between threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optimally, I'd get a reducer bushing, but I can't even find a thread size that matches these dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2121" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T05:05:41.450" Title="How can I mount a water heater element to a GoldenGate keg?" Tags="|electric|boil-kettle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-20T05:37:30.273" Score="6" ViewCount="1072" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to find plenty of information about the ale yeast &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_cerevisiae&quot;&gt;S. Cerevisiae&lt;/a&gt; and lager yeast &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_pastorianus&quot;&gt;S. Pastorianus&lt;/a&gt;, however information about the wine making yeast S. Bayanus appears to be more difficult to come by.  The article simply states that it is similar to the two.  Can anyone point me in the right direction regarding this yeast?  I'm looking for optimal brewing temperatures and anything else I can find about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my reputation isn't high enough yet to include more than 2 links, but the information I found on S. Bayanus can be found on wikipedia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3739" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T14:36:16.750" Title="Where can I find information about the yeast Saccharomyces Bayanus?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10487" CreationDate="2013-08-20T05:56:05.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find information like fermentation temp and attentuation on different kinds of wine yeasts from the white labs homepage:&#xA;These are also the yeasts strains easily available for the homebrewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew/listings?style=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew/listings?style=3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2637" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T05:56:05.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10487" CreationDate="2013-08-20T14:36:16.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winemakermag.com/guide/yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WineMaker Magazine&lt;/a&gt;, there's two different strains from Vintner's Harvest.  Depending on which one you have, the following information should be everything you would need to ensure a proper fermentation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Company             Yeast Name              Dry/Liquid  Strain #    Suggested Wine Styles                                                       Temp Range (°F)     Alcohol Tolerance (% ABV)/Flocculation&#xA;Vintner's Harvest   Saccharomyces Bayanus   Dry         CL23        Blush, Dry, Dry Whites, Sparkling Cuvée, Whites                             46-75°              18% High&#xA;Vintner's Harvest   Saccharomyces Bayanus   Dry         SN9         Aged Reds, Blush, Cider, Fruit Wine, Sparkling Cuvée, Whites, Young Reds    68-75°              18%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above information also gives us some more information to go off of.  Assuming you have/plan on getting Vintner's Harvest yeast (I can't find any other lab that produces a strain by that name), here's their less technical information on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://vintnersharvest.com/collections/wine-yeasts/products/vintners-harvest-wine-yeast-cl23&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CL23 strain&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://vintnersharvest.com/collections/wine-yeasts/products/vintners-harvest-wine-yeast-sn9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SN9 strain&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T14:36:16.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2013-08-20T17:49:15.333" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Denny, except that I can taste brown sugar, especially when used for priming. It is very subtle and mostly an aroma, but tastes slightly different from cane/beet/corn sugar. Same is true of honey; it mostly ferments out but leaves a subtle residual flavor. I like to use brown sugar on bottle or keg conditioned stouts (oatmeal, milk) and I like to use honey on hefeweizens and blondes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Just finished an old ale and used store-bought molasses. It has a strong molasses flavor that carried through to the finished beer. It is much stronger than honey or other sugars I've used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T23:24:53.783" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T23:24:53.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-22T00:52:03.430" Score="1" ViewCount="849" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for hops that do well in upstate NY (zone 6a).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently growing Willamette and Cascade.  The Willamette did very well this year.  Cascades didn't produce enough to make anything with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put the hops in 3-4 years ago, I also planted Nugget, Kent Golding and Chinook and none of them really got established enough over a couple of grouwing seasons.  Those were planned on a less-sunny side of the yard with say 5-8 hours of sunlight per day. There is also a walnut tree nearby.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3506" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T00:16:43.773" Title="Varities of hops to grow in upstate New York" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10502" CreationDate="2013-08-22T07:02:16.940" Score="1" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I was boiling my yeast starter, I measured it in a hydrometer, and it read 1.040. I knew the temperature would distort it upwards, but I didn't know by how much...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already pitched, and out of curiosity I measured some more in a hydrometer, and I've discovered it at 1.070.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it better to do a 1.070 OG yeast starter than to do none at all, or will it stress the yeast in some fashion that will affect the overall batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T15:25:29.433" Title="What is a 1.070 OG Yeast Starter Going to Do to Me?" Tags="|yeast-starters|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7494" CreationDate="2013-08-22T09:34:41.380" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if your refractometer is with ATC, then you don't need to adjust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3745" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-08-22T12:52:21.757" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T12:52:21.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-22T09:35:13.203" Score="0" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done three brews so far, one with a partial mash, one with only extract and one BIAB. I'm restricted to working with a 10L kettle (a little more than 2.5 gallons). For obvious reasons, this yields quite small batches. I've been reading quite a bit different BIAB techniques and have a question about something similar. More specifically, I'm curious about the difference between two ways of brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first scenario, let's say we have 12.5L of wort to boil for an hour. The boil-off is 2.5L so that at the end of the boil we're left with 10L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the other scenario, we start with 10L of wort in our main kettle. But this was obtained using BIAB, and we re-use the bag in a second (smaller) kettle. So when the boil starts we are boiling 10L in one kettle and around 4-5L in a second kettle. As wort boils off in the main kettle, we add wort from the second kettle. Let's say we do this every 15 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two scenarios obviously differ, but at the end of the boil they should have the same amount of wort left: 10L. A simple figure may illustrate this.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iyTM3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the second technique bad?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would the hop amounts be different in the two techniques (provided nothing is added to the second kettle)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3744" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T07:34:34.270" Title="Question about hop schedule and BIAB" Tags="|hops|boil|biab|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10494" CreationDate="2013-08-22T09:40:21.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moving the wort between kettles complicates things, since you're dealing with both hopped and unhopped extract. While you'll be able to make beer this way, it complicates hitting IBUs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're boiling both kettles anyway, why not add hops in proportion to their volumes, e.g. 2/3 in the 10l kettle and 1/3 in the 5l kettle. There is then no need to transfer wort between the kettles which makes your day a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T09:40:21.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10515" CreationDate="2013-08-22T13:08:35.293" Score="3" ViewCount="1745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making an ale flavored with juniper berries (dried and crushed). I am considering adding some during secondary, much like dry hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want from the berries is of course the resinous and bitter tastes, i.e., essential oils in the berries, in addition to some other flavors. Will adding the berries like this impart anything at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T14:54:59.383" Title="Adding juniper berries to secondary" Tags="|ingredients|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10496" CreationDate="2013-08-22T18:29:26.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not see why it would not extract some of the alcohol and water-soluble compounds (flavors) from the berries at that stage. The essential oils would probably come out more easily at this point than if you tried to extract them during primary fermentation, due to the higher alcohol content and typically better solubility of essential oils in alcohol. However, ale typically has a relatively low alcohol content compared to what I typically ferment (sake in the primary, 12% ABV kit wine in the secondary), so I have little experience with low alcohol fermentations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3747" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T18:29:26.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10174" CreationDate="2013-08-22T18:50:09.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends upon the type of wine you are making. I have one bottle of French Columbard that I turned into sparkling wine due to an accidental over-addition of acid before primary fermentation. I aged all of the bottles with the lees for 2 years minimum before degorging with the sole purpose of getting the yeasty notes I have experienced with Champagne. I repeated that process with some sparkling apple wine and had the same success at getting the flavor I had intended. Autolysis of yeast cells seems to be impacted by a variety of factors, and bottle age under CO2 pressure seems to be different than bottle age under an airlock from my recollection of various winemaking books I have read (I would cite references but those particular books are still packed up somewhere in the basement from the move).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to bulk/ bottle ageing I do not know how still wines yeasty character changes over time as I typically do not intentionally age on the lees except for sparkling wines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3747" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T18:50:09.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10500" CreationDate="2013-08-22T21:25:17.473" Score="2" ViewCount="2931" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I bought a Mr. Beer beginner cider kit, at the time, I thought it would be an easy way to get into the hobby of homebrewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the homebrew store that I got the Mr. Beer kit from doesn't sell the refills, and I thought, why use concentrate when I have a juicer anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume that I should use 8.5 liters of apple juice? (the concentrate + water adds up to 8.5 liters) Is there any particular type of yeast that you would recommend for a plastic fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestions for using a Mr. Beer set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3748" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T02:21:58.127" Title="Create your own Mr Beer cider refill?" Tags="|ingredients|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10499" CreationDate="2013-08-23T02:02:22.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use cider yeast, ale yeast or champagne yeast. Most homebrew shops carry all of these. Dry versions are the easiest to work with, but you can use liquid as well. They are all generally formulated for 5 gal batches, so try to use a little less than half. For dry, you can pour the grains out into a dark bowl and then try to separate, or use a precision scale. If you use too much yeast in a Mr. Beer kit, I've heard they can explode, so maybe go a little under. Dry yeasts are ok to buy online as well. Champagne and dry cider yeast are better for drier cider, but I've heard people have good luck with English ale yeasts too. With liquid yeast there are more varieties to choose from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are making your own fresh cider/juice, you can try doing it without adding any extra yeast if you buy organic apples. Apples have yeast naturally living on their skin, so if you leave the skin on when you extract the juice, there will be enough naturally occurring/wild yeast to ferment the batch. Obviously avoid non-organic/conventional apples if you go this route because of the pesticides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as an alternative to Mr. Beer, you can get some better equipment quite cheaply. You  can buy a 1 gallon glass jug with a rubber stopper and an airlock for about $10 - with an airlock you won't need to worry about the fermenter exploding, as CO2 can escape (unlike in Mr. Beer). You can also get a 3 gallon Better Bottle, which works great for small batches. Additionally, many people make cider and apfelwein right in the plastic container the juice/cider comes in. Just add a rubber stopper and airlock, or drill a hole in the juice bottle cap and add a rubber grommet and airlock. Plastic fermenters and even carboys from homebrew shops are pretty inexpensive in general. Online shops also sell 2 &amp;amp; 5 gal cider kits with buckets or carboys, with less equipment than beer kits. Cider-making requires way less equipment and is way cheaper than making beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2013-08-23T19:38:06.557" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T19:38:06.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10494" CreationDate="2013-08-23T07:34:34.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily a bad method, but it's a little complicated, and it's difficult to predict the outcome in terms of OG and hop utilization. (The hop utilization depends strongly on the SG of the extract you are boiling in, see&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-5.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the resulting IBUs will differ, because the the hop utilization depends on the SG of the extract you are boiling. You will not have very good control of the SG of the wort you boil, so you will not have good control of the hop utilization. On the other hand, the numbers may not differ much, maybe a couple of IBUs. Moreover, the human palate has a resolution of about 5 IBUs so it won't matter that much. At the same time, there are many other unknowns affecting hop utilization in homebrewing, such as boil vigor, so it is difficult to predict IBUs anyway!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T07:34:34.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10492" CreationDate="2013-08-23T15:25:29.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the yeast will be more stressed and less healthy than they would be in a lower OG starter.  Chances are that you'll be OK, but in the future it would be better to do a lower gravity starter and have healthier, better performing yeast.  I use .75 oz. DME per cup of water for a starter in the 1.035-1.040 range.  Weigh your DME, don't use volume measurement for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T15:25:29.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-23T18:43:39.487" Score="1" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to change over 3 pin-lock kegs to ball type. I got the posts and they include the threaded portion that normally protrudes from the top of the keg. Everything went fine for 5 out of 6 posts but the threads on the keg for the last post must be worn or a slightly different thread size because the new post won't tighten properly. The guy who sold me the kegs said to just hammer out the threaded part out of the keg body and install one of the new threaded parts. Sorry this is clumsy - I don't know the right term for the threaded male portion of the keg. Anyway I'm a bit dubious about taking a hammer to the keg - it's not clear that this part is ever intended to come out - perhaps welded in place? There is rubber right up to the edge so hard to see how it is mated to the keg body. So... hammer or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3749" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T16:22:53.063" Title="Threaded portion of corny keg - removable?" Tags="|keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10503" CreationDate="2013-08-23T20:27:35.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never seen a keg where the threaded part was removable.  If you got some out, they obviously must be, but I think you've run up against one like I've seen.  I'd approach it differently....first, you can try to find an appropriately sized post by using this chart...&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ipass.net/mpdixon/KegThreadSizes.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ipass.net/mpdixon/KegThreadSizes.htm&lt;/a&gt; .  Or do what I do...use threaded (flare) fittings (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/ball-disc-1-4-mfl-gas.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/ball-disc-1-4-mfl-gas.html&lt;/a&gt; , for example) on your gas lines so you can just screw on the proper QD for either pin or ball lock kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T20:27:35.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10508" CreationDate="2013-08-24T12:42:09.183" Score="3" ViewCount="813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m contemplating the use of a copper immersion chiller.  Currently, doing partial batches, I’m able to cool my wort fairly quickly in an ice bath, then adding cooled water in the carboy.  I’d like to go to full boils, thus researching the use of a wort chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve seen some people add the IC to the wort boil, to sanitize it.  Are there any affects to the wort by doing this (eg – metallic taste)??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3591" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T14:20:53.543" Title="Are there any effects of boiling copper immersion chiller with wort?" Tags="|boil|off-flavor|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-24T18:26:59.193" Score="6" ViewCount="3923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am from Puerto Rico and the temperature here is like summer all year round(between 75 to 95*F) , and I really want to know the cleanest strains of yeasts for this kind of temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(clean yeast=low undesired secondary flavors/aromas due to warm fermentation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make some ales that normaly are fermented on the mid's 60*F. The problem is that if I do them whith the original strain of yeast it will have way too much esters and secondary flavors and aromas because of the warm fermentation here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So im looking to buy new strains a bit more cleaner, in order to get a beer profile more similar to the original beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any experiences about dealing with warm fermentation yeasts and the outcome will be appreciated too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3746" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T23:09:07.147" Title="Which strains of yeasts are the cleanest for warm/hot fermentation?" Tags="|yeast|techniques|fermentation-temperature|ale|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10505" CreationDate="2013-08-24T23:47:01.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fine to boil the chiller for a few minutes to sanitize it. Just make sure you give the chiller a good cleaning in acetic acid prior to its first use, as per Palmer's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter2-2-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;advice&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-08-24T23:47:01.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-25T21:45:40.447" Score="1" ViewCount="754" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a 5.5 gallon batch of bells two hearted IPA and believe I have a stuck fermentation.  It been 9 days since I pitched the yeast.  I took a gravity reading at day 8 (1.028) and again at day 9(1.028).  Right not if my math is right it is at 60% attenuation. See below for the recipe. I made a starter with 1/2 cup dme and 2 cups water and a wyeast 1450 smack pack. I don't have a refractometer so so I don't know OG or FG of starter.  I used a stir plate for 48 hours.  I mashed at 153, batch sparged, and hit my OG perfectly at 1.068.  I cooled wort to 65-70 before pitching yeast.  I aerate with a stirring attachment on a drill and it gets it whopped up real well.  I ferment carboy in a water bath that I am able to keep temp at 66-68.  Looking back it did not seem that the starter did well as I did not have any kraesen ring like I have with other starters, It looked like it did when I started 48 hours earlier. The beer in the fermenter started bubbling pretty well within 24 hrs and slowed at day 5.  It is still slowly bubbling the airlock at day 9.  It did not create a very thick kriesen ring in the carboy.  Today at day 9 I roused the yeast and have allowed the water bath temp rise to about 72.  I was going to let it sit for 3 days and take another reading.  If no change I plan to buy another package of 1450 and make another 48 hour starter and pitch it.  I have read pitching on a yeast cake will likely work but I don't have anything available.  Your thought on my plan or should I do something different.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch Size: 6.00 gal(I got 5.5 after boil)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Style: American IPA (14B)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Boil Size: 7.00 gal&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Color: 6.6 SRM&#xA;Bitterness: 59.4 IBUs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Boil Time: 60 min&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Est OG: 1.068 (16.4° P)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Est FG: 1.016 SG (4.0° P)&#xA;ABV: 6.9%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 lbs. Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2 lbs. Vienna Malt (Weyermann) (3.0 SRM)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;8.0 oz. Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;8.0 oz. Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM). 0.8 oz.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Centennial [10.3%] - Boil 60 min, .5 oz&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Centennial [10.3%] - Boil 45 min, 0.5 oz.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Centennial [10.3%] - Boil 30 min, 0.8 oz.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Centennial [10.3%] - Boil 15 min, 1.00, 0.5 oz.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Centennial [10.3%] - Boil 0 min&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 pkgs  Denny's Favorite 50 (Wyeast #WY1450)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1.0 oz. Cascade [5.5%] - Dry Hop 14 days&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1.0 oz  Centennial [10.0%] - Dry Hop 14 days   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3753" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T14:04:55.440" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T21:39:55.510" Title="Stuck fermentation" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10506" CreationDate="2013-08-26T11:14:26.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sasion yeast can handle the high temperatures. But it's a style unto itself. I wouldn't recommend trying to brew an IPA or a Stout with Sasion yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know many home brewers have success using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=homebrew+swamp+cooler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;swamp cooler&lt;/a&gt; to control temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T11:14:26.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10506" CreationDate="2013-08-26T13:25:45.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently did a saison using only &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp645-brettanomyces-claussenii?s=homebrew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brettanomyces Claussenii&lt;/a&gt;, and it turned out very interesting.  Despite many misconceptions, brett will not sour beer.  I didn't even see much in the way of a pellicle as many claim to get when they ferment with Brett.  White labs doesn't condense down the yeast when they package it, so it isn't much to look at in comparison to the other yeast strains, and you'll need a massive starter to get the cell count you need.  It was an interesting experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind, is that even if a strain says that it can ferment at higher temperatures, almost never means that it will ferment clean, producing low esters and undesirable flavors, even for Brett or Saisons.  Part of a saison's unique flavor is due to the higher temperatures it is fermented at.  As stated before, at your ambient temperatures, you are going to have to do something to cool it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T13:25:45.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10506" CreationDate="2013-08-26T13:31:35.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im from Venezuela (80 ºF) so I´m familiar to those off flavor you mention. In my (really short humble) experience, when brewing regular beers, using S-03 and fermenting in a cool room (no a refrigerated one, just a dark corner) does the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although when trying higher-gravity beers (OG 1.060) with S-03 sometimes we get some &quot;Hot alcohol&quot; flavors, like Gin or Vodka. This used to annoyed me, until my GF suggested to take advantage of those &quot;Hot alcohols&quot; so we try some bourbon recipes, and came across this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/bourbon-barrel-porter-all-grain-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NB Bourbon Porter Kit&lt;/a&gt; which we tweak a little, and came out with a really nice, sort of Rum/beer Frankestein.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3463" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T13:31:35.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10509" CreationDate="2013-08-26T14:06:25.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Allowing the temperature to rise a bit and waiting three days is the &lt;strong&gt;best&lt;/strong&gt; idea.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't do anything, pitching more yeast will work, but have a try first!  It won't be the finished product, but for a beer like this I don't think a FG of 1.028 is unacceptable - it's higher than I would want to drink myself (as I prefer dry beers) but ask yourself if the extra trouble (and potential to have unexpected things happen) is worth it before you pitch more yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I've done exactly that on several occasions and been happy with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T14:06:25.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10505" CreationDate="2013-08-26T14:20:53.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people say that it's &lt;strong&gt;better&lt;/strong&gt; to include the IC in your boil (if it's copper) as the copper gives off micronutrients (namely zinc) as well as providing a nucleation point which reduces the chance of boilovers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2666/pennies-in-the-boil&quot;&gt;Pennies in the Boil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T14:20:53.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10496" CreationDate="2013-08-26T14:54:59.383" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do this you should soak them in a little bit of vodka - effectively making a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tincture&quot;&gt;tincture&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three reasons why: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;control&lt;/strong&gt;:  The alcohol will leach the essential oils and you can add the tincture a little bit at a time until you reach the flavor you want&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;sanitation&lt;/strong&gt;: Juniper berries especially can be used as a fermentation starter as they have a specific kind of yeast on them that has particular qualities.  One example of this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.regalbuto.net/Travels/?p=51&quot;&gt;Smreka&lt;/a&gt;, but there's a Finnish drink called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sahti&quot;&gt;sahti&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/can-i-culture-yeast-juniper-berries-169156/&quot;&gt;various experiments&lt;/a&gt; around - that to say, you don't want to introduce an uncontrolled yeast at this stage.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;easier racking/cleanup&lt;/strong&gt;: Pouring liquid into the secondary means no yeast-covered berries to pull out when you rack.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T14:54:59.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10163" CreationDate="2013-08-26T18:43:04.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of projects like this, a quick search on homebrewtalk and I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/double-decker-fermentation-chamber-keezer-build-295453/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe there are other/better methods out there, but this is a fairly easy build.  So long as the secondary chamber doesn't have too much dead space, you're fine, and since you'll be custom building it that shouldn't be an issue.  Just have a think about what will go in that chamber (soda kegs or carboys? etc) and build it to fit that particular shape with not a lot of overhead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T18:43:04.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10337" CreationDate="2013-08-27T14:25:57.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that it depends a lot on the yeast you're using, the beer you're using it in and where that beer is in its life-cycle (:D).  If you made a particularly large starter of especially hearty yeast and it's at day 2.5 peak-Krausen, it will take a lot more abuse than a beer on it's third week in primary made with 5th generation yeast you underpitched.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all you really care about is &quot;will this yeast drop&quot; I think shifts of no more than 5º in two hours (and no more than 15º overall) and it should (generally) be okay.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course making beer is a mystical search for the divine on par with the most self-torturing of ascetic orders - so even if this okay now, it's not optimal - and (after a 2 second look at your profile) I have a feeling that soon you'll be aiming to minimize temperature swings to within microdegrees during fermentation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!  Excited to see the graphs...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastEditorUserId="3737" LastEditDate="2013-08-27T21:01:21.347" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T21:01:21.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-27T21:28:54.533" Score="1" ViewCount="969" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in brewing what I've heard is called a &quot;raddler&quot;. It's pretty much a lemonade beer I am aware of some technical issues with this  style  such as lemonade is sweet and yeast eats sugar but let's say all goes well and the yeast eats the sugar leaving me with a tart lemon flavor beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone tried adding xylitol to the beer before bottling or kegging(in my case). Does the xylitol affect the yeast in any way? Will the lemon juice's high acidity affect the xylitol?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kobi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3759" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T15:01:27.633" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T16:02:56.910" Title="Xylitol with beer?" Tags="|lemonade|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10518" CreationDate="2013-08-27T21:34:45.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just mix it at serving time. That's how many soda/juice/etc + beer drinks are made. You are right, if you try to do it up front with a non-alcoholic beverage, it's going to affect the fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T21:34:45.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10509" CreationDate="2013-08-27T21:39:55.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Denny's 50 is supposed to be a good attenuator, and 12 points is probably a bit far from margin of error. Time is probably your best bet. If it refuses to attenuate any further after a couple of weeks, you could throw some champagne yeast on it to finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T21:39:55.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10526" CreationDate="2013-08-27T22:27:47.700" Score="1" ViewCount="1595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made around 5 homebrews and have heard of yeast starters but have never used one. I have always used smack packs or dry yeast and just pitched that directly into the fermentation. They have all turned out fine, so now I am curious why I would use a yeast starter? Does it make for a better or faster brew? Do I only need it in certain situations? What other advantages could I be missing to using a yeast starter instead of not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T13:26:12.560" Title="Do I need to make a yeast starter" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-28T05:19:40.270" Score="0" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a first time home-brewer. Followed the instructions to the letter. When I added the cold water I &quot;splashed&quot; it in to aerate it. The wort had a large head at the time of pitching the yeast. Will this delay or ruin the effect of the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pierre&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3761" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T09:19:05.457" Title="Pitched yeast into head of wort, will this delay/ruin its effect?" Tags="|yeast|pitching|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10518" CreationDate="2013-08-28T06:03:36.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&amp;amp;t=12888&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stevia&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's much sweeter than sugar so it will only take a little bit to reach the sweetness level you're after, plus it's unfermentable.  Is there a recipe you're thinking of using, or you're still in the 'just thinking' phase?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T06:03:36.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10522" CreationDate="2013-08-28T06:08:19.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Read this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;whole chapter&lt;/a&gt; about fermentation.  Then read that whole book :p  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely you'll be fine.  You want there to be lots of oxygen when you pitch, but in the future keep things moving around for a while after pitching so the yeast gets properly mixed in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, though, that people made beer for a &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; long time without even knowing what yeast was and things worked out okay. RDWAHAHB!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T06:08:19.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10522" CreationDate="2013-08-28T08:59:12.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is certainly an element of personal opinion when it comes to answering this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people pitch directly on the foam and then either leave it for 15 minutes to start rehydrating before stirring it in or not bother stirring it in at all. Others tend to stir it straight in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, it is not going to stop the yeast working and the foam normally dies down fairly quickly anyway, at which time the yeast will be in direct contact with the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T09:19:05.457" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T09:19:05.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10521" CreationDate="2013-08-28T15:54:00.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plain and simple is that you don't NEED one if you just rehydrate the yeast and pitch you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scenario where you would need to make a yeast starter is when brewing a high gravity beer and you are concerned that your yeast will not be as efficient as you would like, so you make a yeast starter to raise the cell count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3759" LastEditorUserId="3767" LastEditDate="2013-08-29T13:26:12.560" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T13:26:12.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10503" CreationDate="2013-08-28T16:11:27.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;NO don't hammer it &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All my cornies are ball lock and the threaded post is a part of the keg body on all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get replacement posts to screw into the threaded portion but I have no exprience if the ball lock and pin lock outlets use the same size of threded post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T16:11:27.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2013-08-28T17:06:40.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a better idea.  Why not just brew a house beer named after your child every year a month before his birthday.  That way you get to celebrate his birthday every eye with a batch you only make once a year.  After he turns 21 you can both celebrate the tradition!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3762" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T17:06:40.117" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-08-28T17:06:40.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10530" CreationDate="2013-08-28T20:07:43.790" Score="4" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to harvest some wild hops I found. Is there any way of determining the characteristics like alpha acid? I was thinking of maybe just using them for flavor/aroma/dry, since I have no idea what the contribution would be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T12:02:16.720" Title="Wild hop alpha acid" Tags="|hops|alpha-acids|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10529" CreationDate="2013-08-29T12:02:16.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to use them for flavor and aroma, since then you can use them as is. If you wanted to use them for bittering you'd have to find some way of measuring the bittering acids, such as boiling in a light sugar solution for 30 mins, doing the same with another known AA variety and comparing/diluting until you can get some idea of the bitterness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite a lot of work and guesswork, so best to play safe and use them for flavor and aroma. This is also where fresh hops really shine since they've not been processed, which causes dry hops to lose volatile oils. This makes fresh hops particularly suited to hopping in the secondary, aka, wet hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T12:02:16.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="146" CreationDate="2013-08-29T16:59:43.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The method that I have used successfully is to go pick some wild fruit (apples) that have not been sprayed and throw them in the wort (unwashed). After they have been washed by the wort remove apples and watch the yeast grow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3770" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T16:59:43.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10561" CreationDate="2013-09-01T16:33:02.040" Score="0" ViewCount="2904" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst following my first batch of home brew instructions, rather than using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Priming Calculator&lt;/a&gt; we added the amount recommended for bottling (1/2 teaspoon per pint). It's been in the pressure barrel around 4 weeks and is very low on CO2, poured a pint off which had some kick from the tap and then it glugged. The ale is also fairly cloudy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried adding a CO2 bulb in the top, this resulted in a good 1/2 pint then back to the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the batch has been in the pressure barrel for 4 weeks and I know I added around 15 teaspoons to the brew - what is the best way to try recover this underprime. Should I try adding more CO2 bulbs, or is it worth adding more sugar and trying to restart the secondary fermentation? I should also point out the barrel is well sealed with vaseline on all the joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3776" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T04:41:51.183" Title="Underprimed Pressure Barrel (Didn't add enough sugar at start of secondary fermentation)" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|priming-sugar|pressure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-02T06:05:22.117" Score="2" ViewCount="1416" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story long, I live next to a &quot;brew on premise&quot; and have always used their mill (barley crusher) to mill my grains. But now I am moving and time to grow up and get my own, does anyone have advice for which mill to buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;barley crusher&quot; seems to be a good homebrew mill (the B.O.P. just purchased a second after 1,500 batches) but it really seems to be a piece of shit, The B.O.P. has been running the grains through the mill twice for a year now. I want value, a &quot;barley crusher&quot; is $130-$150, but the &quot;monster Mill MM2&quot; is $150. The mill is the only thing that concerns me, I can make a platform &amp;amp; hopper no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read plenty of reviews but I want to hear from you guys who have mills and like them or don't, I know it's a long stupid question but give me some feedback... Please!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what is the difference between a two and three roller mill?&#xA;What is the difference in mill material and knurling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T15:30:04.693" Title="Looking to get a new grain mill and want some advice" Tags="|equipment|mill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10534" CreationDate="2013-09-02T10:11:38.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend you get a 3 roller mill - then you will not need to crush everything twice. They cost only a little more - $175. The reason they are superior is that the first gap, which is a fixed width,  gently breaks open the grain, preserving the husk. The second gap (created with the 3rd roller) is then the one you set to your final crush. This allows you to mill quite finely without destroying the husks since they mostly go through without being pulverized. Keeping the husks intact gives you better filtering when mashing and makes lautering run smoother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the MM3, and mill at 0.035&quot; / 0.88mm, which of course does produce some flour, yet when the wort hits the boil kettle after being recirculated, it's clear. I get 90%+ mash+lauter efficiency with my setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T10:11:38.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10534" CreationDate="2013-09-02T15:30:04.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a 2 roller mill and just close the gap to get the crush I want.  No need for a 3 roller.  Based on conversations with people who own mills, they're all pretty good no matter which you buy.  I've used a JSP adjustable for 15 years and maybe a thousand batches, but all the people I know who have other brands are satisfied with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T15:30:04.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10539" CreationDate="2013-09-02T20:11:41.387" Score="4" ViewCount="2126" Body="&lt;p&gt;From chemistry I recall that we were supposed to shake almost everything in order to get the elements to react.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With wort, however, we simply dump yeast in and wait 4 weeks before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that if we shook the carboy, we could decrease this 4 week time period. Even better if we could make a platform and use a stir plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do we not shake the carboy for this particular chemical reaction? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I am not referring to shaking for aeration, prior to pitching yeast, but shaking for the reaction between yeast and sugar, after pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2013-09-02T22:32:14.577" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T00:09:03.227" Title="Why Don't we Shake the Carboy" Tags="|carboy|stir-plate|shaking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10537" CreationDate="2013-09-02T22:28:41.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're talking about when the yeast is first pitched, we &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; shake the carboy.  Or, well, &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; do, in order to get oxygen into the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a stirplate, I would imagine that it would have to be fairly big to scale up to carboy dimensions.  And your stirbar would be sitting in the carboy until you were ready to transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastEditorUserId="3466" LastEditDate="2013-09-02T23:10:00.463" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T23:10:00.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10537" CreationDate="2013-09-02T22:44:32.740" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stirring is not needed while the yeast are actively fermenting because the fermenting wort is naturally turbulent - i.e. it self-stirs. This churning mixes the wort ensuring the yeast are suspended more-or-less throughout the wort, so they are always in contact with their food supply, making additional stirring redundant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The turbulence in the wort comes mainly from the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; released, and to a minor degree from temperature differentials in the wort. The CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; attaches to solids in the wort/yeast and causes it to rise to the top. When at the top the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; bubbles are released and the solids start to sink back down. As the solids sink, they provide a nucleation site for more CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, or the yeast itself produces the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, and the process repeats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stirring/rousing is only needed when fermentation has stopped prematurely. If the yeast drop out early, then a little stir, or rouse, accompanied by a small increase in temperature can help get them started again. That's the only time you need to agitate the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to speeding up the maturation process, that's really a function of the quantity of yeast, the temperature, and the enzymes available to the yeast. Stirring will not change any of these factors. To speed up maturation, commercial breweries can add enzymes to the primary fermentor, such as α-acetolactate decarboxylase which prevents the production of diacetyl by converting α-acetolactate directly into acetoin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;see&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biokemi.org/biozoom/issues/522/articles/2368&quot;&gt;Enzymes in Brewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T00:09:03.227" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T00:09:03.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10533" CreationDate="2013-09-03T00:34:51.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not used this type of equipment, but if you're sure everything is sealed then you should still be able to add more priming sugar and re-carbonate the brew. 4 weeks is a little on the long side, so the yeast may not be as viable as they were, but there will still be sufficient yeast in the beer to carbonate, but it may take a while - a couple of weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could force carbonate with the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; bulbs but you might need quite a few of them, so I would only do that if in a hurry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T00:41:03.027" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T00:41:03.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10542" CreationDate="2013-09-03T04:31:35.453" Score="4" ViewCount="3068" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have 4, 5 gallon batches going. After a bad episode of brewing at a high temperature (72-75°F) for 2 batches, I have gone in the opposite direction and aim for 60*F, and frequently dip below that (57-59°F). I get very irritated when my wort gets to even 63°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some Internet reading, I am starting to worry that 60°F is too low for most ales, and that it will cause a lower attenuation. I am willing to sacrifice a lower alcohol content if it means better taste, as I know that a higher temperature causes the ester production that most often decreases the palatability of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does my desire to decrease this ester production beyond reasonable action (i.e., brewing at 60*F), have unwanted taste side effects that I am not considering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T15:59:18.170" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T15:59:18.170" Title="Does a too low fermentation temperature affect taste?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|taste|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10541" CreationDate="2013-09-03T11:45:13.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you reduce the temperature you need to compensate with more yeast, just as you do when brewing a lager.  E.g. for a 1.050 ale fermented at 60&amp;deg;F a 2 liter starter would be the minimum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if pitching from a smaller starter, increase the temperature slowly after primary fermentation is almost complete - e.g. 3 days or when you hit 75% of the target gravity - raising the temperature then will not produce significantly more esters and will increase the yeast metabolism so they continue fermenting rather than drop out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T11:45:13.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10541" CreationDate="2013-09-03T15:13:11.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use ale yeasts at fairly low temps all the time and I haven't experienced any so far that have negative characteristics at 60F.  Some, like WY1007, 1728, or 1056 even work fine down into the 50s.  Yes, a lower temp will produce fewer esters, but in general that's what I'm looking for.  Whether fewer esters are a positive or negative effect depends on what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T15:13:11.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10541" CreationDate="2013-09-03T21:16:21.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each yeast you use will have a recommended temperature range, however, that doesn't mean it's ideal to swing wildly, even within that range. You can typically get away with temps below the recommended range, but above the range will definitely produce off flavors, as will stressing the yeast out with wide temperature swings over the fermentation period. Even submerging your fermentation vessel in water is helpful if you don't have tight temperature control. Finding a room or a fridge you can dial in to be a constant temperature (and one recommended for your yeast) will improve your fermentation characteristics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T21:16:21.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10547" CreationDate="2013-09-04T14:31:35.330" Score="3" ViewCount="16004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen several tables, notably:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/hydrom.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/hydrom.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beer-wine.com/learning/how-adjust-specific-gravity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.beer-wine.com/learning/how-adjust-specific-gravity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brsquared.org/wine/CalcInfo/HydSugAl.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.brsquared.org/wine/CalcInfo/HydSugAl.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But they all differ slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to test my hydrometer and refractometer with known gravities by adding sugar to a known volume of water (say 1 gallon for example) and taking measurements (like with no sugar, then the correct amount for 1.010/2.5Brix, etc), then increase the sugar and continue taking measurements, just to verify the readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I can't seem to find where they are getting the numbers from for oz/gallon of sugar. Notably, Jack's table includes sugar &lt;em&gt;added to&lt;/em&gt; water, which I believe would be the most useful, since I'll measure the water first, then add the sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="19506" LastEditDate="2021-09-07T22:33:18.227" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T06:35:50.853" Title="Seeking formula for adding sugar dissolved in water to produce specific gravity" Tags="|specific-gravity|sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10545" CreationDate="2013-09-04T14:47:06.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=222857&amp;amp;sid=66cfb426a053e7490106351b7057e05f#p222857&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This post from adjelange has some more substantial detail&lt;/a&gt;, along with a &quot;tl;dr:&quot; that says basically: 1.046 for 1 lb in 1 gallon, and &quot;The density does depend on the type of sugar but is not something you would be able to detect with a hydrometer.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I found this by doing a google search for &quot;sucrose gravity&quot;; it was the first result.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T14:47:06.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10545" CreationDate="2013-09-04T17:26:43.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, it appears the answer can be derived from the simple fact that &quot;The [Plato] scale expresses the density as the percentage of sucrose by weight&quot;. By that token, the sugar content in oz is simply &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8.3*16 * degrees plato or brix&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To account for adding to water, you could say &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(8.3*16)&lt;em&gt;P%+(P%&lt;/em&gt;(8.3*16)*P%)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the formula you use determine brix would play a large factor as well as the fact that the relationship between degrees Plato and specific gravity (SG) is not linear. I guess that's why Ball, Ack and Plato used tables...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T17:26:43.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2013-09-04T18:49:32.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as removing labels and the residue left behind by Sierra Nevada bottles, it helps to soak the bottles in very warm water with baking soda. Then scrub lightly with steel wool, it comes right off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3780" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T18:49:32.117" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-04T18:49:32.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10550" CreationDate="2013-09-04T21:10:47.220" Score="3" ViewCount="2204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to do my first extract brew after doing a couple of kits and have found what claims to be an extract recipe, which uses Maris Otter Pale Malt grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a speciality grain I can use for steeping with an extract brew? Also, is there anything I can look for in the future that signifies that a grain is suited to steeping in an extract brew rather than requiring mashing? It doesn't appear to be something that is advertised with different grains and appears to be assumed knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3335" LastEditorUserId="3335" LastEditDate="2013-09-05T08:13:45.777" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T08:13:45.777" Title="Steeping Maris Otter Pale Malt" Tags="|extract|specialty-grains|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10549" CreationDate="2013-09-04T21:44:14.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To find out which grains can be steeped, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter13-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Steeping Speciality Grains&lt;/a&gt; in John Palmer's &quot;How to brew&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a practical level, steeping and mashing are almost the same thing - you soak grains in water. The key differences between steeping and mashing is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steeped grains have most of the starches already converted (Cara/Crystal malt, highly kilned malts) while mashing uses enzymes to convert starches in the grain to sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steeping is done in 160&amp;deg;F/70&amp;deg;C water while mashing is done at around 148-154&amp;deg;F (mash temperature affects fermentability - lower temp = more fermentable.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steeping is done for 30 minutes, while mashing can be done for longer - one hour is typical.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, while you can't technically steep the Maris Otter, since it's a base malt and the starches have not been converted, there's no reason you can't mash it, like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak the crushed Maris Otter in 160&amp;deg;F water - about 1.5qt water per pound of grain - the combined grain/water should settle around 148-154&amp;deg;F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After 30 mins, add additional water to bring the temperature up to 160&amp;deg;F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then add any other speciality malts (if any) and leave for another 30 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optionally, rinse the grains in fresh 176&amp;deg;F water to get more sugars out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the initial soak at 150&amp;deg;F the enzymes in the Maris Otter will break down the starch into the simpler sugars you want in the wort. Plus, these enzymes will also help break down unconverted starch in the other speciality malts that you would normally steep, giving you slightly better efficiency, as described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7651/how-does-efficiency-change-when-adding-grains-that-are-normally-steeped-to-a-mas&quot;&gt;How does efficiency change when adding grains that are normally steeped to a mash?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of fuss is made about mashing vs steeping, which seems to confuse the issue and scare away new brewers from doing mini-mashes. In practice it just involves different temperatures and longer time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T23:04:33.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2013-09-05T02:16:43.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Schneider Weisse Aventinus - Labels are readily removed with warm tap water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3782" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T02:16:43.863" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-05T02:16:43.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-05T03:49:08.283" Score="2" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently adjusted the gap on my grain mill to give the smallest gap.  I was playing around with going as small as possible until I start to cause problems, i.e. stuck mash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've brewed very similar recipes only, changing one ingredient, about 5-6&#xA;times before. The only thing I can thing to blame the haze on is  the smaller crush. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will a smaller crush cause a haze?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch - 10gallons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grains: &#xA;17 lb american 2 row&#xA;6.5 lb rye malt &#xA;1.5 Munich malt&#xA;1.25 crystal 40&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops:&#xA;60 min 2 oz magnum 14.7 aa&#xA;20 min 1 oz cascade 6.7aa&#xA;20 min 1 oz citra 12 aa&#xA;0 min 1 oz cascade 6.7 aa&#xA;0 min 1 oz citra 6.7aa&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast &#xA;White labs WLP028 Edinburgh&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Misc:&#xA;2 whirlfloc tablets for 20 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash at 150F &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil for 60 min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3783" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-09-05T04:30:49.677" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T17:04:58.590" Title="Will reducing the mill gap cause haze?" Tags="|crush|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10560" CreationDate="2013-09-05T06:16:38.117" Score="3" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wasn't able to cool down the wort well enough and pitched WLP001 at 85°F (29.5°C) (I know, what a failure...) My home is 82°F (28°C) indoors and the water comes out of the faucet at that temp too. Ran out of ice in the fridge and it was a bad day... Fortunately, I got the temperature down to 75 degrees within the first hour and a half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I was originally planning on washing the yeast to reuse after racking this beer to a secondary. If it was pitched too high, would I still be able to wash and reuse it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3627" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T13:19:44.307" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T13:19:44.307" Title="Washing yeast from a brew that was pitched too warm?" Tags="|temperature|yeast-washing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10557" CreationDate="2013-09-05T07:11:00.090" Score="10" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started brewing back in may, at the beginning of a Californian summer. I quickly learned that the swamp cooler was necessary to prevent unwanted ester formation due to a too-high of temperature for a given yeast. The swamp cooler isn't good enough, however, and requires substituting frozen water bottles 3x per day. This is absolutely excellent for keeping a ceiling on the wort temperature. However, the temperature swings beneath the ceiling can be pretty severe. For my current 4 batches going, I have put the ceiling at 66, but temperatures vary widely from 57-66, 24 hours per day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hear from this forum and others that temperature swings are also bad (that it will stress the yeast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the reasoning behind this? I.e., too high of a temperature causes ester formation. Ester = off flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the temperature swings, even with a ceiling on temperature, cause off flavors? Why. If they don't cause off flavors, why are they bad (other than swings that would cause a decrease in attenuation for going too low)? The swings are no doubt superior to ester production from too-high of a temperature, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that with a ceiling, a swing of 20*F would be bad as it would cause a lower attenuation. So for the second part of my question, lets add a theoretical floor to whatever temperature gives the maximum effective attenuation for a given strain. In this circumstance, with a ceiling (to prevent esters) and a floor (to retain attenuation), why would swings be bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T17:13:13.200" Title="Why are Swings in Temperature Bad?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10563" CreationDate="2013-09-05T09:45:25.760" Score="3" ViewCount="8145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing my first beer, in a few days the primary fermentation will be complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On completion I'll rack it into another bucket, but I'm a bit confused about where to put the required amount of sugar before bottling. As I'm a beginner, I don't want to do secondary fermentation, just bottle the whole thing after primary fermentation is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is:&lt;/strong&gt; should I put the required amount (6g/litre for my beer as the beerkit manual says, so 3 grams) to the bottle and then fill it up, or should I put 120 grams (for 20 litres of beer) to the brewing bucket, stir it and then do the bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3784" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T12:00:47.657" Title="Where to add the sugar before bottling?" Tags="|bottling|sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10555" CreationDate="2013-09-05T12:02:33.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the steps I use:  Dissolve the sugar in about a cup of boiling water to both speed up the dissolving of the sugar into the beer and sterilize the sugar itself.  Give that water time to cool first so that you don't kill a bunch of yeast when you add it.  Begin siphoning your beer into the bottling bucket, then add the sugar water to the bottling bucket after it is about 1/4 transferred.  The remaining beer will stir in the sugar for you as it fills the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the amount of sugar to add, I &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtarget.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recommend&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;using&lt;/a&gt; one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;many&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;calculators&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;available&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T12:02:33.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10554" CreationDate="2013-09-05T15:15:10.770" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer - it's not &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; bad, per se.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest 'problem' is consistency/isolation of variables.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly when all-grain brewing there are a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; of things to keep track of throughout the process.  As you keep brewing, you'll want to aim to improve parts of your process, and you'll probably develop a few favorite recipes.  In a non-professional setup it's difficult to create a environment wherein &lt;strong&gt;ALL&lt;/strong&gt; these variables are constant (boil time, hop additions, fermentation time, amount of yeast pitched, etc), but fermentation temperature is something of an attainable aim for most amateur brewers (do a quick search on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com&quot;&gt;homebrewtalk&lt;/a&gt; for 'fermentation chamber')&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to the 'reason' people get nutty about fermentation temperature - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer you make with the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; recipe can and will vary (sometimes substantially) in overall quality, clarity, flavor, color, etc when these variables aren't stable.  So it's important to stabilize what you can in the process so more uncontrollable variables can be isolated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation temperature is fairly high in the hierarchy of importance among these variables.  Swings in temperature, as you noted, can cause off-flavors, and too high a temperature can create excessive esters and diacetyl production.  More controlled swings won't cause 'off-flavors' per se - but if you're making a bitter that you've made ten times before with stable fermentation temperatures and the same yeast, and &lt;strong&gt;this&lt;/strong&gt; time the temperature jumps around during fermentation you'll definitely notice a difference.  Will that difference be bad?  Who's to say?  Beauty is in the palate of the drinker - but if you like (or HATE) the results you'll not be able to replicate (or steer clear of) it in the future.  Whereas if you could control the temperature, and you know you like the results you get when fermenting at 68F, but not at 72F or 64F...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T15:15:10.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10554" CreationDate="2013-09-05T15:43:29.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that swings within a range are not a problem, as dax said.  It may stress the yeast somewhat, but unless you are attempting to get perfect replication from brew to brew, or are trying to really nail down a flavor profile, it should be fine.  I suspect that attempts to keep fermentation temperature at a rock steady level are as much an attempt to exercise maximum geekery, as anything else.  Which is fun itself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T15:43:29.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10506" CreationDate="2013-09-05T16:08:05.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a list of yeasts with temperature ranges here - &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/high-temp-yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beerandwinejournal.com/high-temp-yeast/&lt;/a&gt;  It's mainly Belgian abbey/trappist/saison yeast straings, with Saison being the high-temp winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T16:08:05.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10553" CreationDate="2013-09-05T16:26:03.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst you can try to wash and reuse it the yeast will have suffered some heat stress as optimal temp range for that yeast is between 68-73°F (20-23°C). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a yeast did not have a textbook fermentation, I would not try to reuse it unless there was either no other way to get the yeast or unless it was very expensive to just get new yeast. The cost of a new batch of this yeast is nothing compared to the possible loss of a batch of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trouble is that you wont really know if this batch of beer comes out OK before you would need to re-pitch the yeast as it will only store well in a fridge for a week or 2 but if you do go ahead and harvest some of this yeast, make sure you go through with a starter before pitching it again to give the yeast the best chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T13:18:30.593" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T13:18:30.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10533" CreationDate="2013-09-05T16:33:02.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are not likely to have much success trying to force carb in a pressure barrel as they will generally vent before reaching a high enough pressure in order to protect the pressure barrel. They are not designed to hold pressure to the degree kegs are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 4 weeks, unless the pressure barrel was stored too cool, you are likely to have all the carbonation you are going to from whats in there. I would suggest adding some fresh yeast as what is in there probably has very little viability now as it is probably over 6 weeks old by now allowing for primary and add some more priming sugar. Normally you would want somewhere are 80 - 100 grams of sugar depending on the level of carbonation you are looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T16:33:02.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10554" CreationDate="2013-09-05T19:19:14.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Positive temperature swings have been discussed - fusels and esters are the main problems. If the temperature fluctuating then you'll also have negative swings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Negative temperature swings can cause the yeast to drop out. This is particularly true with the Belgian strains, such as WLP530 and WLP570 - even with constant ambient temperature, removing the heat that was coming from fermentation as primary nears completion is enough to cause these strains to sometimes drop out prematurely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast remain active so long as they can maintain a sufficient metabolic rate via food sources and temperature - temperature is key since it affects how quickly the enzymatic reactions proceed. The yeast have various metabolic pathways available, activated based on temperature and available metabolites. A negative temperature swing can reduce the rate of metabolism via the current metabolic pathway to below the active threshold, causing the yeast cell to go dormant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T19:19:14.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10555" CreationDate="2013-09-06T12:00:47.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding sugar to individual bottles isn't recommended:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's inaccurate - it's quite hard to measure 3 grams - you can approximate it as a fraction of a teaspoon, but still inaccurate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pouring the sugar in to the bottle from a teaspoon requires diligence&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the sugar isn't sterile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easier and more accurate to add all the sugar to the bottling bucket, boiled in a little water to make a syrup - the syrup will be sanitary, and resulting carbonation will then be more consistent with little variation between bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the syrup is quite thick (viscous) then add the sugar solution once there is some beer in the bucket, otherwise you can add it initially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T12:00:47.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10553" CreationDate="2013-09-06T12:36:35.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can reuse the yeast - the temperature range top of 73°F (23°C) is for the recommended fermentation profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the lab, researchers shock the yeast by raising the temperature from 25&amp;deg;C/77&amp;deg;F to 37&amp;deg;C/98&amp;deg;F and holding it there for several hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your brief venture into 85°F (29.5°C) was short - 1.5 hours - so if any shock has occurred, it will be a mild one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as with any re-use of yeast - always taste the beer you just racked off to look out for any potential problems before considering harvesting the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T13:19:10.920" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T13:19:10.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="565" CreationDate="2013-09-06T15:35:38.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;18# gw base malt, 2# choc., 4oz black or roast barley, 1# oats or flaked barley.  Used 2nd runnings for root beer stout.  to boil add 1 pt. molasses + 1 c. pale dry extract + 2oz root beer extract.  lightly hop with 2 oz cascade. ferment as usual. og 1.065  fg 1.013 .  kegged &amp;amp; force carbonated.  sweeter than typ. ales, dryer than sodas.  many compliments, 34 year old neice said best beer ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3787" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T15:35:38.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10552" CreationDate="2013-09-06T17:04:58.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, I don't think a smaller crush will cause haze. The flour particles are fairly heavy and will clump together in the boil, and would definitely drop out during primary. (I use a fine crush and have not seen haze from that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For other causes of haze, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3957/what-causes-cloudiness-in-beer&quot;&gt;What causes cloudiness in beer?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T17:04:58.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-06T22:31:59.810" Score="0" ViewCount="1266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have in bottles a batch smelling like chemicals or rubber. I'm thinking keep it a while, and check if the smell fade out. Is this possible? Or I'm just wasting my time with this batch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As side note, this batch is, from a parti-gyle, a second run. The first run, a porter, is OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T09:15:58.337" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T09:15:58.337" Title="Should I dump a batch with rubber smell?" Tags="|contamination|aroma|partigyle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10567" CreationDate="2013-09-07T04:04:50.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;RDWHAHB. Unless you're confident that you had dirty fermentor, ride it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've already invested the time and $$ in the brew day, might as well keg/bottle and see how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3788" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T04:04:50.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="98" CreationDate="2013-09-07T16:52:05.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that nearly whatever I ferment, wine, apples, peaches, pears, cherries... That starting with one lb:gallon is always a fair bet. I have had good success with up to 8lbs:gallon for sweeter concoctions. I am a fan of champagne yeast, but I also like to ferment high octane drinks. I might start with a lower tolerance yeast, but a little high tolerance yeast to finish the fermentation and very it out a bit works for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is too dry, wine and cider are very forgiving. Just add more sugar and let it sit again. What is the rush? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3789" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T16:52:05.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10567" CreationDate="2013-09-07T17:10:57.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rubber smell could be autolysis - I've experienced it a couple of times when I left beer in primary for a long time. It has a kind of rubbery unpleasant aroma and the taste is the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left the keg for 6 months and it didn't improve so I threw it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T17:10:57.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2706" CreationDate="2013-09-07T21:21:21.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tried it out on some white wine as an experiment. Actually turned out drinkable. Not great, but drinkable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3790" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T21:21:21.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10573" CreationDate="2013-09-07T22:50:25.413" Score="4" ViewCount="5633" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like the title says: how long does harvested yeast keep? I am assuming to keep the yeast you have to store it in the refrigerator, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T21:24:44.790" Title="How long does harvested yeast keep" Tags="|yeast|harvest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10572" CreationDate="2013-09-07T23:35:31.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Yeast&lt;/em&gt; (White &amp;amp; Zainasheff), they have a table of the reliable and max shelf life of yeast storage techniques:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harvested slurry: 2 weeks / 6 weeks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Agar plate: 1 month / 1 year (if sealed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Agar slant: 3 months / 1-2 years&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Agar stab: 4 months / 2-3 years&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water immersion: 6 months / 3-5 years&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;… &amp;amp;c., up to professional freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People report success with fridge-stored slurry on much longer time frames.  I think White &amp;amp; Zainasheff are being somewhat pedantic; the amount of mutation you'll see in a handful of months is probably both very real, but also not particularly noticable to a homebrewer's beer or palate, all things considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to look into yeast &lt;em&gt;washing&lt;/em&gt; (using acid to help purify the harvested yeast) if you want to pursue that path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T23:35:31.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10576" CreationDate="2013-09-08T18:58:13.320" Score="3" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottle condition underwater with frozen water bottles to keep the temperature down. I probably bottle conditioned my last batch of beer beneath 60 °F, and it didn't carbonate all that well, or at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have brewed a new batch of beer at 58-63 °F while the WYeast website indicates its optimal temperature range from 64-72 °F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend on letting it bottle condition in the range of 64-68 °F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cold crashed the yeast (and lowered attenuation) while the batch was brewing, would bottle conditioning at a higher temperature range incline the bottles to explode? I figure this would be the case because the yeast would reactivate and consume the non-attenuated wort in combination with the priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T16:09:19.603" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T16:09:19.603" Title="Does Low-Attenuated Wort due to Low Temperature have a Higher Propensity to Bottle-Bomb while Bottle Conditioning at a Higher Temperature?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|bottle-conditioning|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10575" CreationDate="2013-09-08T19:40:10.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is a potential risk of bottle bombs, as with any incomplete ferment. The residual fermentables can be fermented by the remaining yeast in the bottle along with the priming sugar and produce more CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; than intended. Ideally you should cold crash only after you are sure primary is complete. Many brewers simply leave the beer in primary for at least 2 weeks, which pretty much guarantees completion, (assuming a fairly stable or slightly increasing temperature.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're unsure about primary being complete, you can try a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/forced-fermentation-test.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forced ferment&lt;/a&gt;, to determine what the FG should be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not surprised conditioning at 60&amp;deg;F didn't produce much carbonation - the yeast need a fair activity level for the beer to carbonate. There is relatively little yeast in the beer during bottling - less than 100,000 cells/ml, which is typically less than 2% of that which was available during primary. With the low cell count and low temperature the yeast will not be very active at all. Better to condition for a week at 68-70*F before cold crashing to serving temps. During that time the yeast will ferment the priming sugar, produce the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; which then will dissolve into the beer over an additional week - faster if the beer is then kept cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the temperature low during bottle conditioning during the first week, is nowhere near as important as temperature management during the primary ferment, and sounds like for you it's causing more problems than it's solving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-09-08T21:31:13.563" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T21:31:13.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="813" CreationDate="2013-09-09T00:13:53.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote a whole blog post on this topic a while back: &lt;a href=&quot;https://lifefermented.wordpress.com/2013/08/14/alternate-priming-sugars/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alternate Priming Sugars.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I discuss honey, DME, brown sugar, etc, even fruit juice.  Adds a nice extra dimension to some beers.  If you're just looking to carb up your beer and you're out of corn sugar, you can't go wrong with plain old table sugar though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T22:36:09.877" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T22:36:09.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10579" CreationDate="2013-09-09T14:28:38.100" Score="1" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just noticed that i used the large bottle caps on my coffee stout and of course all the beer is not carbonated (tastes fine just not carbonated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to make the move to kegging after i went all grain but i rather not loose this batch so i thought i buy a keg and force carbonate this batch. Can this be done even though i added priming sugar? Some of the beers were very lightly carbonated. The beer has been in bottles for about 3 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just going to pour each bottle into the keg, maybe thru a filter? Will i have any issues going this route? Anything else i can do to carbonate the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3575" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T14:42:49.000" Title="Used large bottle caps now have uncarbonated beer" Tags="|carbonation|caps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10578" CreationDate="2013-09-09T14:42:49.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It'll work fine without a filter. Your main problem is going to be oxygenation. When pouring the beer into the keg, take care not to splash, as this will increase the amount of oxygen dissolved in the beer. Dissolved oxygen causes the beer to go stale faster than it otherwise would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It won't be possible to entirely prevent oxygen from entering the beer, as you're pouring rather than racking. As a consequence, the beer will almost certainly go stale within a number of weeks. You can mitigate this by storing the beer at a cold temperature. Even still, you should drink the beer quickly and not attempt to age it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T14:42:49.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10581" CreationDate="2013-09-09T18:58:55.437" Score="1" ViewCount="11498" Body="&lt;p&gt;Made my second batch of ginger beer the other day, and not sure if different sugars perhaps produced a little more alcohol..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my first batch, I used 2 cups of pure cane sugar and 1 packet of dry champagne yeast from red star to yield ~1 gallon. I let the bottles sit at room temperature for a little more than a day, then I dropped them in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my second, I doubled the batch, but instead of 4 cups of sugar , I used 3 cups, and ~13 oz. pineapple juice (Reed's uses pineapple juice, so thought I'd give it a try). I also added the cane sugar by making a simple syrup this time to make sure it all dissolves, as well as added some lime--neither of which should have an effect on fermentation(?). I pitched the same red star yeast after letting my pot sit in the fridge for a few hours to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--Edit: I used 1# of ginger/gallon yield and 1 lemon for both. Those didn't change between batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bottled it all yesterday and ran out of bottles (beer's taking them all up!) so I poured the left overs into a Nalgene bottle which I took to work today to see if it's carbonated. To my surprise/satisfaction, when I opened the bottle it announced with a nice 'tssh!' that it was nice and fizzy. However, after drinking a pint's worth, I'm pretty sure this batch is...different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a beer-brewing, red-blooded, beard-adorned American, I can tell when I've had alcohol, and I'm 95% sure this ginger beer is a little more 'special' than my first batch. Given I just ate lunch prior to drinking it, it must have at least 2% alcohol to make me even &lt;em&gt;notice&lt;/em&gt; anything, or even think about it. My beer brewing experience says this doesn't make much sense, but then I remembered the key difference between this batch and the prior, and one thing I learned from nutritional science in college: fructose is the simplest of sugars, and pineapple juice packs a lot of fructose. The champagne yeast is probably having a party with the stuff--and I'm actually enjoying my Monday at work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that at least pass the smell test? Could champagne yeast have turned that much sugar into a noticeable alcohol content in less than 24 hours? Is there that big of a difference between cane sugar, and fructose? Or was there potentially some weird fungus growing on the ginger root that I used, explaining my general euphoria at work today?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3723" LastEditorUserId="3723" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T20:55:33.870" LastActivityDate="2020-04-18T15:47:49.410" Title="Sugar source and alcohol content in Ginger Beer" Tags="|ginger-beer|alcohol-content|soda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10580" CreationDate="2013-09-09T21:42:33.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ignoring the other ferementables (lime and pineapple juice) 3 cups of sugar weights about 600g - or 1.32lb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table sugar has a potential of 1.046 points per pound per gallon, which gives an estimated SG of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;46 x 1.32 / 2&#xA;  = &lt;strong&gt;30 gravity units&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your ginger beer would have had an initial SG of &lt;strong&gt;1.030&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plugged these figures into BeerSmith, which computes the estimated FG at 0.993, and a maximum abv. of 4.8%. (Actual abv. may have been lower if not all the sugar was fermented, or it may have been higher since this figure doesn't include the pineapple juice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, your ginger beer could have been &lt;strong&gt;4.8% abv&lt;/strong&gt; - no wonder you had an enjoyable day at work! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Yes there's a good chance the yeast will have worked their way through the sugar. When one makes a 1.030 SG starter, it can be fermented out within 24 hours, and that's with a complex wort. Your solution was mainly sucrose, which can be fermented fairly quickly - the yeast have to synthesize invertase to invert the sugar. However, fermentation could have gone even quicker if you boiled it with the lime juice and/or pineapple juice since this will provide the heat and acidic environment needed to invert the sugar syrup, turning it into fructose and glucose, which are immediately fermentable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, it's quite likely the yeast worked their way through most if not all the sugar.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T09:27:41.777" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T09:27:41.777" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2013-09-10T21:22:16.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://theelectricbrewery.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;theelectricbrewery.com&lt;/a&gt; details a full build of an electric brewery, including mounting the elements securely, safely and firmly in the kettles through the kettle wall and designing the control panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T21:22:16.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10572" CreationDate="2013-09-10T21:24:44.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been washing yeast for years now and I've never had washed yeast be completely dead, even after 9 months, but that doesn't mean you should necessarily use it. If you do wash yeast, &lt;strong&gt;ALWAYS&lt;/strong&gt; prepare a starter. This will let you know if the viability is good (if it propagates) and &lt;strong&gt;smell the starter before pitching&lt;/strong&gt;. I have ruined two batches by pitching 'off-smelling' yeast washes. I am too cheap to leave the process alone; I have saved literally hundreds of dollars, but even one bad batch really pisses me off... Just remember, &lt;strong&gt;any flavors you smell in the starter are going to be in your beer&lt;/strong&gt;; make sure you like them! Easy enough to run to the homebrew store and by some dry yeast or a smack pack! Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T21:24:44.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10586" CreationDate="2013-09-11T13:51:49.970" Score="2" ViewCount="633" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I'm a relatively new brewer.  I've done probably 10 brews, however I've always done it out of a kit and have kegged it afterwards.  Brewing from a kit is super easy, it's basically boil it, bucket it, put it in a keg.  I have a few questions though, since I'm trying to brew without a kit this time.  I went to the homebrew store, told them what I wanted to make, and they gave me the ingredients, but I don't have instructions. First off, here's what I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 lb Plain Extra Dark DME,&#xA;A bag of grains,&#xA;5 oz lactose,&#xA;Oats,&#xA;1 oz Czech Saaz hop pellets,&#xA;Irish moss&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to brew a 1 gallon vanilla coffee oatmeal milk stout.  Can anyone help me out with what times and temperatures would be a good estimate to accomplish this?  What I'm thinking based on how I remember brewing from kits, I should boil the grain bag for about 20 minutes, reduce to about 165 degrees and add the hop pellets, 1 oz of lactose, and the DME for about 45 minutes.  The Irish moss I add 1/4 tsp in the last 15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does all this sound right?  If not, which step should I change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when would I add the oats?  Would that go in with my grains, then removed after the 20 minutes, or should I add that later and siphon out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3803" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-09-11T17:48:01.960" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T18:12:53.423" Title="First time without a kit" Tags="|recipe|coffee|first-time|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10585" CreationDate="2013-09-11T18:00:47.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't want to boil the grains, that will make the beer very harsh and astringent (like tea that has stewed too long.) Looks like you got it backwards - start at 165&amp;deg;F to steep the grains, then remove the grains and then turn on the heat bring the liquid to a boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to steep both the grains and oats in hot water - so that the whole mixture ends up around 150-165&amp;deg;F. Leave this to stand for 30 mins and then separate the grains/oats from the water. (Storing the grains/oats in a grain bag can help, otherwise filter through a sieve, cheese cloth etc..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can bring the extract from the grains/oats up to the boil, add the hops and the liquid extract, and sufficient water to bring it up half a gallon or so. I'm puzzled with the hops, since they're not what I would consider to be a typical variety in a stout - so they could be either for bittering or for flavor or both, but typically not aroma in a Stout. Also 1oz for 1 gallon is quite a lot of bittering hops, so I would boil for flavor only 15-20 minutes, and you'll still get a good degree of hop bitterness because of the quantity of hops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After boiling top up with cold water to 1 gallon and leave to cool/chill. When at 75&amp;deg;F/23&amp;deg;C pitch the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T18:00:47.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-12T19:50:12.460" Score="2" ViewCount="2017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3 gallon wine kit about ready to go from primary in a plastic bucket to secondary in a carboy. This is a port style, so I think I should be getting more fermentation action once I'm in the carboy. I only have a 5 gallon carboy, is this going to be too big and have too much headroom for good results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1962" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T20:31:38.607" Title="Can I use a 5 gallon carboy for a 3 gallon batch of wine?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|wine|carboy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10587" CreationDate="2013-09-12T20:15:07.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, that will be fine.  I've done it several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T20:15:07.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10653" CreationDate="2013-09-12T20:40:53.127" Score="1" ViewCount="1932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two yeast starters going on my two homemade stir plates. The stir bar or the stir plate for one of them is malfunctioning and I can not increase the speed enough to get a vortex going. It is simply keeping the yeast in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the first yeast starter I ever did, I would put an aeration stone in the flask every 5 hours, in addition to the oxygen obtained through the vortex of the stir plate. I believe I read somewhere online that too much oxygen could be a bad thing, and I haven't done it since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the proper way to supplement a yeast starter with oxygen via an aeration stone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T22:36:04.943" Title="What is the proper way to supplement a yeast starter with oxygen via an aeration stone?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|aeration|oxygenation|stir-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2013-09-12T22:31:17.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's also brewers-assistant. It's an online app, completely free to use and has all the usual functionality plus email notifications , timers, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewers-assistant.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.brewers-assistant.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3808" LastEditorUserId="3808" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T22:44:02.170" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T22:44:02.170" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-12T22:31:17.657" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-12T22:47:28.037" Score="0" ViewCount="1517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an electrim mashing bin (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/public/detailv1.asp?itemcode=ELE20174643&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the standard one of these&lt;/a&gt;) that I use as a boiler. This morning as I went to heat my liquor, the element started to cut out (water was around 60°C). When I left the power off for a while, the element turned back on, but then cut back out after a couple minutes. I tried this a couple more times then gave up on brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured the problem was scale build up on the element causing overheating (I live and brew with London's rather hard water), so I used some spirit vinegar (about 150ml in 7L of water, plus or minus) to descale. It had a visible effect, removing a decent amount of scale, but the element still cut out after a few minutes. Fast forward a few hours and I repeated the descaling process, at a higher dilution, about 500ml of vinegar in the same amount of water. Alas, the element still does not seem to stay on, though it did stay on for nearly 7 minutes just after the most recent descale, now it won't engage the element at all. (element now appears very clean and generally free of scale, I can attach a photo is anyone thinks it'll help.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any assistance at all is very welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&#xA;Here are a couple shots of my boiler:&#xA;top down of element and manifold:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XJiHT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top down view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;side view of thermostat (currently disconnected from the element)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CslJK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side view of thermostat unit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1425" LastEditorUserId="1425" LastEditDate="2013-09-13T09:17:00.873" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T15:02:56.433" Title="power is cutting out on my (electric) boiler" Tags="|electric|boil-kettle|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-13T18:32:32.143" Score="0" ViewCount="1172" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the intent of the Northern Brewer Caribou Slobber recipe as far as IBU is concerned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1.) I have asked at the store and the answer I got was 34.&#xA;2.) I have searched the Internet and answers range from 26 - 40+.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an OG of 1.052 - at 26 IBU the BU:GU is about .5; at 34 IBU it's .65;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their recipe sheet does not adequately communicate this information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose an OG of 1.052, would it be too malty at 26 IBU and too bitter at 34 IBU?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an American Brown both are within style range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What has been your experience with various IBU levels and this recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3810" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T20:58:47.750" Title="What is the intended IBU of Caribou Slobber?" Tags="|hops|ibu|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2013-09-13T19:19:21.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew indoors only (20l / 5 gallon batches). It worked with a glass-ceramic stove top and with a gas powered stove. A lid helps to get to boiling temperatures. Usually my tamales cooker is not that full that I need to worry about spills during boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2014-02-18T17:39:42.223" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T17:39:42.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="813" CreationDate="2013-09-13T19:24:29.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know what comat0se describes as kräusen as using Speise (literally, food). As a rule of thumb use 10% (for lagers) to 15% (for ales) of the wort as Speise. You need less for lagers cause they usually ferment cooler and at lower temperatures there is more CO2 in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T19:24:29.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10596" CreationDate="2013-09-14T00:19:45.653" Score="4" ViewCount="2116" Body="&lt;p&gt;When bottling in plastic (PET) bottles, it is possible to eliminate oxygen from the bottle by squeezing the bottle.  Below is a &lt;strong&gt;3 liter bottle&lt;/strong&gt; with only &lt;strong&gt;one liter of beer in it:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KydVg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Partially Filled 3 Liter Bottle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done this before, but the ratio of beer was always above 8 parts beer to 1 part headspace, so it was not worth trying to figure out the precise formula to get carbonation perfect.  But since in this case it's 1 part beer to 2 parts headspace, I wonder what would be the correct amount of priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I desire 2.5 volumes of CO2 in the beer, the beer is at 72 degrees F, the 1 liter of beer is in a 3 liter bottle with all the headspace squeezed out, how much corn sugar should be added in this example?  What would be the formula to calculate priming sugar, given a defined expandable (to a point) headspace?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T12:39:11.880" Title="What is the right amount of priming sugar for a bottle with expandable head space?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10595" CreationDate="2013-09-14T09:40:40.703" Score="9" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Overview&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You carbonate partially filled bottles as if the bottle were full of beer, so if you have 1 liter of beer in a 3 liter bottle, you carbonate as if you had 3 liters of beer. Here's why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of carbonation is measured by the equivalent volumes of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; dissolved in the beer.  So a beer carbonated to 2.5 vols, has 2.5 times the volume of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; dissolved compared to the volume of beer (if the gas were at standard pressure and temperature.) To get that 2.5 volumes dissolved in the beer requires the gas in the headspace to reach equilibrium with the gas in the beer - so there also has to be 2.5 volumes of gas in the headspace. So, when you carbonate, you actually &lt;strong&gt;carbonate using the volume of the container, not the volume of the beer&lt;/strong&gt;. Normally the two are so close that it's not worth distinguishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same is true for kegging - you use the same pressure to carbonate no matter how much beer is actually in the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, even though the bottle initially has only 1 liter volume, the volume will expand to 3 liters once the yeast start producing CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, so carbonation calculations have to target the 3 liters container volume rather than the beer volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Details&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it does get a little more involved than just scaling up the carbonation sugar based on the container volume, since there is already dissolved CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in the beer which will also equalize in the headspace. Amount of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in the beer after fermentation depends upon the temperature the beer is fermented at. The formula, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot;&gt;brewersfriend priming calculator&lt;/a&gt;, is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   co2_in_beer = 3.0378 - (0.050062 * temp) + (0.00026555 * temp^2)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where temp is in &amp;deg;F. So, for beer fermented at 72&amp;deg;F the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; already in the beer is 0.81 vols. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this will eventually equalize throughout the whole bottle, we can recompute the volumes of gas that would be when the bottle is filled&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    initial_co2_bottle = co2_in_beer * volume_of_beer / max_volume_of_bottle&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, our beer fermented at 72&amp;deg;F storing 1 liter in a 3 liter bottle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    initial_co2_bottle = 0.81 * 1 / 3&#xA;                       = 0.27 vols&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To target of 2.5 volumes, we need to add priming sugar to make up the difference between the volumes already in the beer/bottle and the desired target:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    priming_volumes = 2.5 - 0.27&#xA;                    = 2.23 vols&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When priming with sucrose (table sugar), half of the weight of the sugar is converted to CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. And 1g of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; per liter corresponds to 0.5 volumes. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Accurately_Calculating_Sugar_Additions_for_Carbonation#table_sugar&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;.) Which gives this formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   vol_co2 = 0.25 * weight_of_sugar (g) / volume_of_container (l)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-arranging this to find out how much sugar is needed to reach a given volumes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   weight_of_sugar (g) = vol_co2 * volume_of_container (l) * 4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. to achieve the 2.21 volumes needed above&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   weight_of_sugar = 2.23 * 3 * 4&#xA;                   = 26.8 g &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To carbonate 1 liter of beer at 72&amp;deg;F in a 3 liter bottle to 2.5 vols you would need to add 26.8g of sugar to the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining all of these formulae into one, we get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;g = (c - ((3.0378 - (0.050062 * t) + (0.00026555 * t^2)) * b / v)) * 4 * v&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;g&lt;/strong&gt; the weight of sugar needed (g). Divide by 0.286 to convert to ounces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;c&lt;/strong&gt; is the desired carbonation (vols CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;t&lt;/strong&gt; is the fermentation temperature of the beer (&amp;deg;F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;b&lt;/strong&gt; is the total volume of beer (l)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;v&lt;/strong&gt; is the total maximum volume of the bottle or other container the beer is in (l)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working this with our example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;g = (2.5 - ((3.0378 - (0.050062 * 72) + (0.00026555 * 72 * 72)) * 1 / 3)) * 4 * 3&#xA;  = 26.8 (g)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to add the sugar to the beer in the bottling bucket, then just use b = the total volume of beer in the bottling bucket, and v = the total volume of all the bottles the beer will be put in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-09-16T14:20:33.313" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T14:20:33.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10592" CreationDate="2013-09-14T15:50:43.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the store told you 34, that's what it is.  IBU are based primarily on boil gravity, so if you do a partial boil you will end up with a different figure than if you do a full boil.  That could very easily account for some of the differences you see.  But people other than those who made the kit are simply calculating their own numbers, through a variety of means that may or may not be accurate.  I've designed kits for NB before, so I know the numbers they give you are accurate based on brewing the recipe the way that NB specifies.  Using other methods may give you different results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T15:50:43.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10592" CreationDate="2013-09-14T18:03:03.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I plugged the recipe into beersmith, I got 42 IBUs (Tinseth). US Goldings, 5% AA, Liberty, 4.3%, Willamette 5%, full wort boil, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Denny rightly says, if you're doing a partial boil, then the IBUs will be different:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 gal partial boil gives 28 IBUs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 gal partial boil gives 31 IBUs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 gal partial boil gives 35 IBUs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 gal partial boil gives 37.9 IBUs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(volume is the pre-boil volume going into the kettle. To get to batch size, top up water is added where needed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was puzzled why I get higher IBUs in Beersmith with my setup, and it turns out it's the evaporation rate, plus that I do 90 minute boils (but hops no earlier than 60 mins). A large boil-off makes the wort more dilute initially increases the hop utilization - at least in theory - my tastebuds tell me Beersmith overestimates the hop utilization for my setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're building your own recipe around your own equipment (partial boil or large boil-off), you should probably adjust the hop quantities to aim for the 34 IBUs quoted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T18:03:03.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-15T12:04:59.057" Score="3" ViewCount="510" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pictures of pomegranate wine I have seen on the internet seem like very dark red wine. The one I made however looked like a milkish pink.&#xA;What can account for the difference? How can I control the colour, get rid of the milky look and darken the wine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Below is a pic of before and after fermentation. I think I can manage removing the milky aspect of the wine by using pectin enzyme. Running tests now.&#xA;However there’s still a significant loss of color. I’d like a nice ruby red and not a twilight pink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L4NCf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L4NCf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;must vs wine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3813" LastEditorUserId="3813" LastEditDate="2018-01-24T08:55:59.597" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T08:55:59.597" Title="Pomegranate wine colour?" Tags="|wine|color|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-15T12:37:23.323" Score="3" ViewCount="4558" Body="&lt;p&gt;My hydrometer shows units I can't conciliate with whatever I read on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shows from top to down:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;00&lt;br&gt;&#xA;10&lt;br&gt;&#xA;20&lt;br&gt;&#xA;30&lt;br&gt;&#xA;40&lt;br&gt;&#xA;50  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Internet however,the gravity should be measured in floats of the 1.xxx type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I read this hydrometer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4S7T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3813" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T11:01:58.337" Title="What unit does my hydrometer show?" Tags="|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10600" CreationDate="2013-09-15T14:38:17.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The scale is sometimes called &quot;Gravity Points&quot; - it's the Specific Gravity value (1.xxx) without the &quot;1.&quot; prefix. So, 1.010 is 10, 1.020 is 20,...1.100 is 100 and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T14:38:17.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10600" CreationDate="2013-09-15T15:42:57.793" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brix&quot;&gt;Brix&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plato_scale#Strength&quot;&gt;Plato&lt;/a&gt;, which are basically the same. To test, mix up a 10% solution of sugar: 10 grams sugar in 90 grams water. If the scale is Brix, your solution should read 10 at the calibration temperature. If the units are gravity points, it will read 40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T15:42:57.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10605" CreationDate="2013-09-17T14:58:31.063" Score="2" ViewCount="3451" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I sanitize all my large fermentation equipment (buckets, lids, tubes...) by spraying it down with a spray bottle of starsan? Just wondering, because so far I have just been filling the 5+ gallon bucket with starsan solution and sanitizing everything in the bucket. The problem with this is that I feel like it wastes so much starsan, and that stuff isn't exactly cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-09-18T04:06:31.717" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T04:13:51.737" Title="Sanitizing with a spray bottle of StarSan" Tags="|sanitation|starsan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10591" CreationDate="2013-09-17T15:02:56.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem might be a thermocouple this is a hardwired switch that will cut the element out if the temp goes to high. this is a additional safety and is normally wired in series with the thermostat that normally switches of the element when it gets to the set temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this switch might be faulty, your local electrician might be able to fix it or maybe you can do it yourself if you do know a bit about electricity. i had a similar problem with my boil kettle and i removed the thermocouple it works fine now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3488" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T15:02:56.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10603" CreationDate="2013-09-17T15:11:52.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can probably achieve adequate sanitation with some very thorough spraying, but the spray from a bottle is not exactly uniform. And I'm not sure how you'd get the inside of tubing effectively besides filling it and sloshing it around, which is certainly an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to dispose of Star-San after using it. You can keep it around for a while, and it will remain effective so long as the pH stays low. Additionally, if you mix it with distilled water, it will last for quite a long time. Months, at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also find a wallpaper tray to be convenient for sanitizing long items (tubes, canes, spoons, &amp;amp;c.) in a minimal amount of Star-San.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T15:11:52.410" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10609" CreationDate="2013-09-17T18:07:08.877" Score="1" ViewCount="4449" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer was getting cold so in a desperate attempt to raise the temperature I put near boiling water into the container. So 450ml into 23litres of beer. The beer had only been brewing for 4 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the beer be OK, or have I killed the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I can confirm that the yeast survived. The gravity was originally 44 when I started and after the &quot;boiling water&quot; incident it was 22. It eventually ended up at 9. So I'm pretty sure it survived. Won't ever risk it again though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3821" LastEditorUserId="3821" LastEditDate="2013-09-25T21:55:10.147" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T21:55:10.147" Title="Adding boiling water to raise temperature during fermentation" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|water|ale|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10585" CreationDate="2013-09-17T18:12:53.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though I admire your efforts tremendously, wouldn't it be easier to go with a more straightforward recipe for your 1st non-kit brew?  Just my opinion, but it might help you hone your skills.  Vanilla, Coffee, Oatmeal, Milk?  All in the same brew?  Why not just start with an Oatmeal Stout first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3822" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T18:12:53.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10606" CreationDate="2013-09-17T18:40:10.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast will be fine; I don't think you could have raised the temperature by more than 4 or 5 degrees F. That's not enough to harm the yeast, but it may result in increased ester production, giving the finished beer a fruity aroma. The beer will also be diluted a small amount, which is not a good thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When raising the temperature of the fermenting beer, you want to do it slowly to avoid shocking the yeast. Adding boiling water is not the best way to do this. Instead, try moving the fermenter to a warmer area, or use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001D6IUB6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brew belt&lt;/a&gt; to gently bring up the temperature. Sometimes, just adding an insulating layer (and old blanket, for example) is enough. The fermentation process produces heat, so if you can prevent that heat from escaping the temperature will rise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T18:40:10.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10606" CreationDate="2013-09-17T18:41:53.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you add near boiling water to fermenting wort, then yes, you can definitely kill some of the yeast, at least, any yeast that come in contact with that near boiling water. If there was enough yeast in the fermenter, distributed in other parts of the beer, then a lot of it may still be alive.  If you see signs of fermentation (bubbling airlock, krausen) it worked. If you don't, it still may be working but you'll need to check the gravity a few times to know if it's woken back up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, you should not do this again :) You can warm it up by other means, and generally, unless it has gotten very cold, you can wake the yeast up again. You can &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move it to a warmer spot (next to a heater/radiator)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=brew%20belt&amp;amp;oq=brew%20belt#q=brew%20belt&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;tbm=shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brew belt&lt;/a&gt; or electric heating pad to warm it up slowly. You can add insulation, blankets, coats, etc to keep heat in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put it in a sunny spot, completely covered in something dark to block out the light and absorb sunlight/heat. Blocking the sun is important to avoid skunking the beer, but you can still use the sun to heat it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put the fermenter in a warm water bath&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all these methods, the temp needs to be monitored so you don't overheat the yeast. Once it's warmed up, you can also add some more DME, sugar or honey in a solution of boiled water, cooled down first to help activate the yeast, or add more yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2013-09-17T21:36:29.270" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T21:36:29.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10606" CreationDate="2013-09-17T19:02:06.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the near boiling water on its own will cause any harm.  But unless you boiled it for a few minutes to remove oxygen before you added it, oxidation could be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T19:02:06.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10614" CreationDate="2013-09-19T22:07:07.943" Score="1" ViewCount="3835" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would it be effective to dry hop a beer that has been kegged and carbonated? More specifically, can I open the keg and drop in some dry hops for a week even after I have carbonated the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's feasible, what temperature should I dry hop at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed and kegged a blonde ale which I was hoping would have a noticeable hop aroma. The results are only so-so. It could be that Calypso hops don't stand out as noticeably when used for aroma, or that the honey malt aroma is overpowering the hops. Or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary concern I see is that carbonation in the beer would just drive off any dry hop aroma I add to the keg, leaving it at best in the head space. I could try to de-gas the beer (I'll have to open the keg anyway) first, but I was hoping to serve this beer at an event in one week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also considered a Randall, but I don't have any experience there and am concerned it would give more hop character than I'm aiming for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T13:59:47.327" Title="Is dry hopping a carbonated beer effective?" Tags="|carbonation|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2013-09-19T22:35:54.067" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you put the beer in the fridge after a week of bottling it will be a little flat but still it will taste better than cheap bear from the store . if you want to be safe wait 2 weeks befor putting in the fridge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3830" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T22:35:54.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10612" CreationDate="2013-09-20T12:28:49.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt;: I should make clear that this is obviously not ideal, but the question is if it can be done effectively.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.  The two main things to watch out for are too much pressure (so you don't get beer all over) and sanitation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For pressure: Remove the C02 and bleed the gas down for a few days (if time permits) - also cool the keg as much as you can to reduce the possibility of a foam-up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sanitation: Hops, as you know, are a natural preservative so not too much to worry about here.  Sanitize a nylon bag, add the hops and get it in there quick as you can when you've opened the keg up (and shut it again just as quickly!)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done it with very little mess and good results, so it's definitely possible, but dry hopping is obviously preferable :p  Using a Randall can be quite overwhelming, but it's awfully cool!  Another option is to make some hop tea/hop tincture and just add that to the beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a good thread about this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/can-i-dry-hop-after-beer-kegged-carbonated-422161/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which I where I turned when I had this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastEditorUserId="3737" LastEditDate="2013-09-20T13:55:06.253" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T13:55:06.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10612" CreationDate="2013-09-20T13:43:31.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the keg is definitely NOT the best place to dry hop. You really want to take care of that in a secondary fermentation where you can skim the particles off before you serve. I suppose it can do in a pinch, but there are some things you need to watch out for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clogging your dip tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting hops in your brew!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To combat these issues you could toss a tea ball in the keg with your hops in it. It would most likely sink to the bottom by the opening for the dip tube, providing the best flavor delivery. Just be sure to thoroughly clean the tea ball before hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method would be to get a product called a Hop Rocket, but that costs significantly more than a tea ball, and it requires the use of fresh hops, not pellets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T13:43:31.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10612" CreationDate="2013-09-20T13:59:47.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often dry hop in the keg without issues. The carbonation should not be a problem since the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is in equilibrium - it's balanced between the beer and the headspace so it's not entering or coming out of solution. It won't make a difference to the hop aroma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be careful when putting the hops in the keg, since they may cause it to foam up - lower them in gently then put the lid on. You can also tie the hop bag to some thin string or unscented dental floss so that you can pull it out when no longer needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T13:59:47.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2013-09-20T18:11:34.037" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not understand how people have left their beer in primary for more than 7 - 9 days. My first ever attempt was a failure because I left it in primary for 10 days.  It was an Amber Ale and it ended up being very soapy tasting and unpleasant.  Could possibly be the style was not meant for longer, but I would not recommend leaving in primary once fermentation has ended and one should transfer to secondary if they are going to age or condition it before bottling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3832" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T18:11:34.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10622" CreationDate="2013-09-21T00:16:33.530" Score="2" ViewCount="1155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Experimenting with a recipe for a Scottish ale, from extract.  On brew day, my color was just a little lighter than I anticipated.  The color darkened slightly during a very active fermentation.  (It blew the air lock once.)  As fermentation slowed, and even more now that it's in my secondary, the color is considerably darker.  Is it normal for the brew to darken significantly during or after fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steeping grains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lb medium crystal (60L)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;.5 lb &quot;crisp brown&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;.375 lb pale chocolate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;.125 lb peated malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentables:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 lb Light DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 lb light brown sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 ounces East Kent Goldings (5.8) - 60 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;.5 ounces Fuggles (4.2) - 10 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast:  Wyeast Scottish Ale #1728 (two smack packs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3591" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T16:07:37.567" Title="What would have caused my wort to darken in the fermenter?" Tags="|fermentation|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-21T00:40:26.657" Score="2" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;Various recipes have different IBU's, OG and FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/allgrain/AG-DennysRyePA.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Northern Brewer recipe&lt;/a&gt; has .25lb more pale malt and .25lb less rye and crystal malt than the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/Wry-Smile-Rye-IPA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HomeBrewers Association recipe&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the intended IBU, OG and FG of this recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is the Northern Brewer recipe different than the one listed on the Homebrewers Association website?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3834" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T16:06:07.920" Title="What is the intended IBU of Wry Smile IPA?" Tags="|ibu|rye|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10603" CreationDate="2013-09-21T04:13:51.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always have a spray bottle of Star San made up. It's definitely adequate for small items and touch-ups, but I slosh around a gallon of Star San in my carboys since it's easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I do to sanitize some things is to wet a paper towel and then wipe the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that matters is that you wet all the surfaces and then give it a minute or so to do its thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I regularly make very small batches of Star San solution. I use a syringe (not to be confused with a hypodermic needle) to measure out a few mL of concentrate. At this rate my bottle of Star San concentrate is going to last for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T04:13:51.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10619" CreationDate="2013-09-21T16:06:07.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OG should be 1.073, 75 IBU, FG somewhere around 1.013.  Maybe NB uses a different efficiency to calculate things.  I gave them my numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T16:06:07.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10618" CreationDate="2013-09-21T16:07:37.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Particulates are dropping out.  When they are in suspension, they make the wort appear lighter.  As they drop out, the beer takes on its normal color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T16:07:37.567" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2013-09-22T00:43:55.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/796/mdma&quot;&gt;mdma&lt;/a&gt;'s answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9511/hydrometer-reading-interference&quot;&gt;this very similar question&lt;/a&gt; is the more correct one, and in conflict with the accepted answer here. Helpfully, there is a citation to support the conjecture that sediment can influence hydrometer readings. It seems that best practice is to let the sediment settle out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant info as unearthed by &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/796/mdma&quot;&gt;mdma&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://publications.iodp.org/proceedings/308/205/205_4.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this source&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hydrometer analysis begins after thoroughly mixing the sediment and&#xA;  water, after which particles settle out of the water column according&#xA;  to Stokes’s law. The density of a sediment-water suspension depends on&#xA;  the concentration and specific gravity of the sediments present in the&#xA;  mixture. If the suspension is allowed to stand, particles will settle&#xA;  out of the suspension and the density of the sediment-water suspension&#xA;  will decrease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2911" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T00:43:55.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10627" CreationDate="2013-09-22T15:36:13.880" Score="2" ViewCount="5114" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I are just getting into homebrewing, and we've been throwing around some ideas to try to simplify things. One of those ideas is to use glass carboys with a bottom spigot in order to eliminate siphoning. We would either do this by getting custom carboys made by a glassmaker (we're thinking of something with a bottom that mirrors the top) or by modifying an existing carboy using glass-cutting tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if someone with more experience could chime in and lay out some of the pros and cons of this idea. We're looking for both logistical and monetary comments regarding this. Do you think it will be cost-prohibitive? Do you think we'll run into any issues we have not foreseen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T19:27:13.130" Title="Glass Carboy with bottom spigot - Can/should it be done?" Tags="|fermentation|carboy|siphon|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10625" CreationDate="2013-09-22T16:16:21.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, here's my list of why it's a bad idea....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You will weaken the carboy and increase the risk of it breaking.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You need to be able to keep the spigot sanitized throughout&#xA;    fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have you priced having custom carboys made?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's just unnecessary...siphoning isn't that hard to do.  What&#xA;    you're looking at is dangerous, expensive and unnecessary compared&#xA;    to just siphoning.  If you really feel the need to use a valve for&#xA;    xfers rather than siphoning, use buckets with valves on them.  You&#xA;    still have the sanitizing issue to deal with (hey, I've tried using&#xA;    fermenters with valves and they were more trouble than they're&#xA;    worth), but at least a bucket would be safe and inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T00:40:19.613" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T00:40:19.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10625" CreationDate="2013-09-22T17:22:24.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would advise trying to siphon first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can use one siphon on multiple carboys. This is a much more economical option to making or converting multiple glass secondary fermenters to have a spigot. Of course, thus assumes that you have more than one brew going at once. As you're new, this is mere conjecture. However, if you plan on being both wine and beer, you'll likely want more than one fermenting vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try cleaning and sanitizing a spigot when it's on your full carboy. It's easier and safer (for your brew at least) to sanitize a siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The is a danger of installing or orienting your spigot such that the weight of the carboy will break it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience, i have a hard time remembering to close the spigot after I have cleaned it, sanitized it and installed it back into my fermenter. This tends to waste wort into my kitchen floor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3840" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T17:22:24.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10271" CreationDate="2013-09-23T18:23:44.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't taste off, well...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's just hop residue? You have a ton of hops in there. No telling how tight those bag walls held-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that I've noticed something similar when I've brewed IPAs, and have added pellet hops straight to the fermenter, without the use of hop bags. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the pellets will sink, but (like in my last batch) they don't always, even after a week. In the case of that batch, I had a similar film on the top of my beer, and racked through a strainer when I bottled. The beer came out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3811" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T18:23:44.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10303" CreationDate="2013-09-23T22:56:45.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't add barley you should definitely add some rice hulls to help with lautering, since a 100% wheat mash will be very sticky and will easily give you a stuck mash.  Normally 1/2lb is plenty, but with a 100% wheat, you probably will want to push this to 1.5lbs of rice hulls - but this really depends upon your equipment. (E.g. for BIAB rice hulls are not needed at all.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you should add a protein rest at 122F to the mash to help reduce haziness - 45min to an hour. This also reduces gumminess and helps with lautering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, think about how dry you want to be. I imagine it will be very dry given given you have 38% rice extract. With the recipe as is, the main control over body is with mash temperature. To avoid a beer that's too watery, you may want to add some carapils, or crystal wheat (if you want to stay 100% wheat) to ensure there is still a little residual sweetness and include a rest the high side - e.g. 160F, to help promote dextrins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even after a protein rest, the beer will be naturally hazy from the high protein content in wheat. If that's an issue, you'll want to add plenty of kettle finings, such as irish moss/whirlfloc, and consider using finings in secondary after the lager period too, to help clear the beer further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T23:03:57.517" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T23:03:57.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10303" CreationDate="2013-09-24T15:27:10.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly brew a lager without barley.  But if you do that, you want to be pretty certain of the quality of your homemade wheat malt.  Has it achieved enough modification to be used alone?  Unless you get it tested, you'll just have to make a guess and hope for the best.  FWIW, I've brewed all wheat malt beers before and found them to be very bland, almost to the point of being insipid.  Just something else to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T15:27:10.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-24T16:37:05.510" Score="0" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2, 6 gallon carboys, one apple &amp;amp; the other peach. The apple is bubbling really good, the peach not at all from what I have seen.&#xA;Can/should I add more yeast or sugar to kick start it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3849" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T05:14:18.053" Title="Re fermentation" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-24T19:29:56.133" Score="3" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad bought me a hydrometer and then left the country. Now I don't know how to read all measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1st scale: 1-13% (I presume this is the potential alc scale)&#xA;2nd scale: 1-26&#xA;3rd scale: 1-28 (this one starts a little higher than the previous but ends on the same place)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any clue what the 2nd and 3rd scale represent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3851" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T00:11:28.070" Title="Reading a 3 scale hydrometer" Tags="|beer|wine|hydrometer|measurements|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10633" CreationDate="2013-09-25T14:53:50.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My best guess is that the scale that goes to 26 is degrees Brix, and that one marked in % is potential alcohol. You can test the first guess by making a solution of 10% table sugar. Add 10g of sugar to 90g of water and mix well. The Brix scale should read 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-10-25T18:55:16.343" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T18:55:16.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10518" CreationDate="2013-09-25T16:02:56.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Xylitol is not fermentable.  So I would expect you could add it after fermentation has finished, to increase the sweetness without increasing the alcohol levels or acidity.  Or, as has been suggested, add it when you open the bottles, but that might take a while to dissolve properly.  I don't see how it could react with the lemon in a bad way, as it's just a sugar alcohol and is used all the time in diabetic treats and in candies and gums which often have citrus flavors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3853" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T16:02:56.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10636" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-25T16:24:24.577" Score="0" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a trappist style beer and about ready to bottle it. I am looking to age part of the bottles and was wondering how long bottled homebrew stays good for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T16:24:24.577" Title="How long does a bottled beer last" Tags="|bottling|aging|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-09-26T13:06:42.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10638" CreationDate="2013-09-25T19:17:05.710" Score="6" ViewCount="15564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed a trappist style ale and I am ready to bottle it. I am a meticulous sanitizer. Just a question though. I have always filled my buckets/carboys with 5 gallons of star sans solution to sanitize it, and since I don't have the space I would dump the solution afterwards. This is wasteful and costly, so due to a response from another question I posted here, I was planning of mixing 1 gallon of solution and thoroughly shaking it in the bottling bucket to sanitize it. Is it a bad idea to try this sanitation method on bottles I plan to age for a good while (like a 18 months)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-09-25T19:27:31.243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T15:09:29.730" Title="Sanitizing bottles with StarSan" Tags="|bottling|sanitation|aging|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10637" CreationDate="2013-09-25T19:37:46.377" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you propose will work fine.  You can even keep StarSan in a spray bottle (mixed with distilled water it will last months or more) and spray down the surfaces.  Although due to FDA regulations they have to list a longer contact time, Charlie Talley of 5 Star Chemical, makers of StarSan, has said that their tests show a 99.9% effectiveness after a 30 second contact time.  Remember, that means simply wetting the surface, not full immersion.  I usually only mix 2.5 gallons at a time for sanitizing 5-7 gal. fermenters.  I could get by with less, but old habits die hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T19:37:46.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10637" CreationDate="2013-09-25T21:26:10.760" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I do regularly for bottling. Start with clean bottles, fill (let's say) 3 bottles with starsan. After getting everything else ready to go, I'll start a pipeline: empty bottle 1 through a funnel into (new) bottle 4, then fill the just-emptied bottle 1 while emptying bottle 2 into bottle 5. Cap bottle 1. Start filling bottle 2 while transferring starsan from bottle 3 into bottle 6… and so on down the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T21:26:10.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10637" CreationDate="2013-09-25T21:51:15.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past I've generally done what the other answers here recommend: fill a bottle with Star San and pour from bottle to bottle. Works well except that it tends to foam up, making it more difficult to pour out. (But don't fear the foam!) I've also used a spray bottle, which is less foamy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I bought a Vinator bottle rinser, which is quick and easy to use. Takes less than a cup of fluid and does a good job of spraying down the interior. The manufacturer's bottle tree is not required.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/vinator-bottle-rinser.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/vinator-bottle-rinser.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you can also consider sanitizing glass bottles in your oven. Winter is coming in the northern hemisphere, so here's a good excuse to heat up the kitchen.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter2-2-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter2-2-3.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T21:51:15.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10642" CreationDate="2013-09-26T11:34:32.100" Score="3" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally do a single mash so I only take one pH reading and adjust the pH with some lactic acid to get within my target range. now I want to do a brew with step mashing where I need to add hot water to get my mash to the next temp step. each time I add water the pH changes and goes out side of what I want it. Must I add more lactic acid after each step to keep my pH within the range I want it to be ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3488" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T20:41:47.383" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T20:41:47.383" Title="When to adjust pH with mash infusions" Tags="|mash|ph|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10641" CreationDate="2013-09-26T13:06:08.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to hit an optimal pH, then yes, you'll have to adjust after each addition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, rather than sticking with the same pH for the entire mash, is generally best to let the pH rise as temperature rises, since the key mash enzymes that work well at higher temperatures also have higher pH optima. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_pH_affects_brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewkaiser&lt;/a&gt; states beta-amylase (fermentable sugar enzyme) has a optimal temperature range of 63&amp;deg;C, and an optimal pH range of 5.3-5.6pH. For alpha-amylase (non-fermentable sugars), the temperature optimum is 72-75&amp;deg;C and pH 5.6-5.9. (All pH values taken at room temperature.)  The same is true for beta-glucan, and two of the protein-degrading enzymes - these have lower optimal temperature ranges and also lower pH ranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when you dilute the mash to raise the temperature, take into consideration the enzymes that you are targeting and their ideal range. The inadvertent pH raise may still be at or close to target, since you're now targeting different enzymes with higher pH optima.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_pH_affects_brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How pH affects brewing&lt;/a&gt; - brewkaiser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-09-26T16:25:54.623" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T16:25:54.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8063" CreationDate="2013-09-26T16:26:20.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the ultimate way to clean really dirty bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get Hydrogen Peroxide from a chemistry lab store.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put it inside the bottle (0.5 cm at the bottom) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait half a day or more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse with water. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All hard dirt is now gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3581" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T16:26:20.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-26T19:54:09.897" Score="1" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just starting to brew and I was wondering if my closet would be cool enough to properly ferment. During the winter my house is usually in the mid 60's. Should I still do something else to regulate the temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3856" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T02:43:44.443" Title="Regulating Temperature in Closet" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10644" CreationDate="2013-09-27T00:39:52.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the yeast you're using with your brew.  If you're using an ale yeast that is best in the low-to-mid 70's, something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/the-brew-belt-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Belt&lt;/a&gt; is a relatively cheap and easy way to keep the temperature slightly higher than the ambient temperature of your closet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're brewing with a yeast that's best in the upper 60's, you may be fine with that temperature in your closet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3858" LastEditorUserId="3858" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T02:43:44.443" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T02:43:44.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10650" CreationDate="2013-09-27T19:25:05.923" Score="2" ViewCount="675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed something last fall with friends, and the recipe was somewhat off-the-cuff. I wasn't super happy with the results.  We were aiming for a Belgian Tripel, but weren't careful in selecting our grains and ended up with something between a Triple and a Quad.  It is a bit more malt-forward than a Tripel, but not as dark as most of the Quads I have had.  It also had a pound or more of Belgian candy sugar which left quite a bit of residual sweetness despite finishing at about 12% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really like the end result, and the beer has been kegged in my fridge for about the last 10 months.  The beer doesn't really have any off-flavors, I just don't care for the combination of sweetness and maltiness.  I'm considering trying to sour the beer with lactobacillus or doing an additional fermentation with brett.  I love sour beers, and was thinking this might be a good opportunity to salvage this beer and turn it into something I'm excited about.  If it turns out undrinkable I won't be heart-broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions for me?  I'm not sure what strain of bugs to use, and for how long, and whether I will need to add fruit or something to provide additional food for another fermentation.  I'm assuming this will affect the alcohol content as well, but I'm not sure to what extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T20:58:01.067" Title="Souring a Belgian Strong Dark Ale" Tags="|fermentation|belgian|sour|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10649" CreationDate="2013-09-27T20:58:01.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two you will want to use are either Wyeast 3763 Roeselare blend, or WLP655 Belgian Sour mix.  If you want to get real squirrely, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2010/06/harvesting-sour-beer-bottle-dregs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;follow the Mad Fermentationist's lead&lt;/a&gt; and go grab a (fresh) bottle or two of your favorite sours from the store, smoothly pour out all but the last half inch of the bottle, swirl the dregs settled at the bottom of the bottle, and pitch those in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now before you go and do this, there's a couple of things to keep in mind.  The little critters provided by Wyeast and WLP (rumored to be the same yeast strain) will &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=194&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tolerate up to 11% ABV&lt;/a&gt;.  You have 12%.  This is going to be a problem.  The brettanomyces which is in the pack/vial is a bit more tolerant, but the Lacto and Pedio may be overwhelmed.  Brett won't sour your beer alone, but it'll give it a huge farmhouse apple funk.  You certainly could try to pitch a vial or two, toss in some (pasteurized) oak, and see how it looks after a year of aging, but don't be too surprised if you don't get the sour character you were hoping for.  If you go this route, try and purge your carboy with CO2 to get all the oxygen out of the head space.  By next year when it will hopefully sour, it'll be two years old, and while it's certainly high enough ABV to last two years, oxygen will only degrade the final outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, unless you want to add fruit, you probably shouldn't.  I'd suspect that if it's a year old, the yeast is probably not healthy enough to fully ferment out the sugars, so that's all the more work the Brett is going to have to do, and it's already going to be stressed by the immense ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T20:58:01.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-27T21:04:26.503" Score="1" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to make Frambozen / Raspberry Brown Ale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/frambozen-clone-recipe-comments-54469/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these instructions&lt;/a&gt; from the New Belgium Brewing brew master.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He wrote&lt;BR&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ferment down to 1.014 FG, holding temperatures barely above 68° F. Use a neutral ale yeast (like Wyeast 1056) or a Belgian ale yeast, or even both. After fermentation rack your beer off the yeast and chill it around 30° F if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 2 weeks of aging, rack your beer (being careful not to transfer any sediment) onto raspberry pulp. This pulp should equal 20%....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't get is about chilling the beer to 30° F.  For how long ?  just for a short period or for full 2 weeks until racking onto the pulp ?  I'm assuming the yeast will go dormant and I'm sure some of the water would freeze.  I don't know what the idea is behind this ?  What if I don't have storage that goes that low, how much of a difference does it make for the finished product ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T15:45:29.460" Title="What does the brew master mean by chilling around 30° F (-1°C)?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10651" CreationDate="2013-09-27T21:08:49.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you reach the final gravity, you can cool down your beer to get the yeast to drop out and clarify the beer.  At 30°F (-1°C), it will probably take 3 days or so.  You'll see it happen.  The beer will not freeze.  It will noticeably clarify your beer, but if you can't do it, don't sweat it.  You can also do it after the beer has been sitting on the fruit instead of before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T15:45:02.070" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T15:45:02.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10589" CreationDate="2013-09-27T22:24:27.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too much oxygen in a starter is almost impossible, so long as you decant the liquid and don't pitch it with the yeast. If you plan to pitch the liquid (e.g. to kraeusen a beer or restart a stuck ferment) then don't stir at all since you'll be pitching oxidized wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vortex isn't necessary for oxygen uptake - just having the surface in continual motion you'll get oxygen uptake by ensuring fresh wort is always at the surface. While a vortex in theory gives more oxygen uptake, the wort will quickly become saturated to the 8-9ppm, and then O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; will enter only as quickly as the yeast consume it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the negative side - shear forces can impair or destroy yeast cells. Commercial centrifuges are designed accounting for shear stress. I don't know if stirring at max speed would be too stressful, but since a vortex isn't necessary, it's probably best to play safe and stirring at the minimum level that gets the job done, i.e. a gentle stir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T22:36:04.943" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T22:36:04.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10656" CreationDate="2013-09-27T23:22:46.887" Score="2" ViewCount="1552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have small seeds in my primary and I am ready to bottle it. How do I strain out the little seeds before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T16:57:53.660" Title="How to strain when bottling" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3000" CreationDate="2013-09-28T01:44:27.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to point out that organisms that produce &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Endospores&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;endospores&lt;/a&gt;, like &lt;em&gt;Clostridium botulinum&lt;/em&gt; survive in honey, but then I remembered that you can not kill them by boiling. The spores could also be naturally present in &lt;strong&gt;anything&lt;/strong&gt; you brew or preserve. This is why you should use a pressure cooker for canning non-acidic foods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a bit more research, and found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Various bacteria have been inoculated into aseptically collected honey held at 20°C. The result showed loss of bacterial viability within 8–24 days. It is only the spore forming microorganisms that can survive in honey at low temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2269714/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Honey: a reservoir for microorganisms and an inhibitory agent for microbes&lt;/em&gt;, Olatien et.al&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bacterial endospores live four hours in boiling heat, UV, and pretty much everything else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything you can kill without a pressure cooker, autoclave or gamma radiation is dead after a couple of weeks in honey at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3862" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T01:44:27.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10654" CreationDate="2013-09-28T03:55:45.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a siphon with a cap on the tip, the end that goes into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the seeds are small enough that you think they'll slip through the cap, you can put a hop sock, cheesecloth, or other filter on the end of the siphon in the beer. Make sure to sanitize anything you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the seeds aren't suspended in the beer, are either floating on top or settled at the bottom, then I wouldn't worry about it. If you're careful they won't get into the siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of seeds are they? Hops? Fruit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastEditorUserId="1688" LastEditDate="2013-09-28T16:57:53.660" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T16:57:53.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10659" CreationDate="2013-09-28T12:16:54.490" Score="1" ViewCount="1060" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f68/respect-imperial-stout-extract-31763/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this imperial stout recipe&lt;/a&gt;, and planning on adding cherries (perhaps bourbon-soaked) to the secondary. I'm pretty new to extract brewing, and have only done one batch previously (only ever done kits customised with extra hops and speciality grains before). I've therefore got a few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much in the way of cherries will I have to use? (this will probably dictate as to whether or not I soak them in bourbon first!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to pitch extra yeast to the secondary?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I bottle after the secondary, will the stout carb up? And how much glucose (or whatever) do I need to add?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3864" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T16:03:56.203" Title="Adding cherries to an imperial stout" Tags="|fruit|stout|imperial|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10654" CreationDate="2013-09-28T16:01:20.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To avoid possibly oxidizing your beer, be sure that whatever filter medium you use is on the end of the siphon that's the &quot;input&quot;, below the beer.  If you put it on the &quot;output&quot; side, you may oxidize the beer as it goes into the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T16:01:20.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10657" CreationDate="2013-09-28T16:03:56.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;) The rule of thumb is 1 lb. of fruit per gal. of beer.  For best results, freeze and thaw them first to break down the cell walls and extract more flavor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) Nope, no extra yeast needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.)  Sure, it'll carb fine.  Use whatever amount of priming sugar works for you.  The cherries will have no effect on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T16:03:56.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-28T19:02:41.160" Score="1" ViewCount="3623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a couple of boxes of plastic bottles for my first home brew. I assume that they are clean being new, but I need to sanatise them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a no rinse sanatise solution, should I use that?  But do you rinse it after to remove any potential taste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I do not have a bottle tree so what happens if there is water in the bottles, or should I wait until 100% dry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3866" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T12:25:42.713" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T12:25:42.713" Title="What is the correct way to sanatise plastic pet bottles?" Tags="|sanitation|bottles|plastic|beginner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10660" CreationDate="2013-09-28T19:11:49.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the sanitizing solution is no rinse, you shouldn't rinse it...that's what &quot;no rinse&quot; means!  If you rinse you pretty much negate the effect of your sanitizer.  There is no need for the bottles to dry before using.  Just drain out as much liquid as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T19:11:49.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10800" CreationDate="2013-09-29T00:47:28.693" Score="3" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a sour mash that is going on 48 hours, and I'm hoping to press it closer to 72 as I like my sours bitter enough to strip the enamel off my teeth.  Problem is by 24 hours (last night), I went to go check on the temperature, and it was very clear that heterofermentative lacto had settled in.  The moment the lid came off, I had a walloping butter smell that required every window be opened to air it out. It was the most intense smell of diacetyl I think I'll ever encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heated the mash up to 140-150, ensuring that I kill off any bad (and good for that matter) bacteria, pitched dregs from a few sours (was too late to go pick up a vial at the homebrew store, had to swing by the liquor store instead).  I let the mash cool down to 120, pitched in the dregs, and maintained temp again.  The smell is still present, although not nearly as intense, and it certainly isn't getting any worse since killing it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, once I go to ferment this wort, I'll pitch a dry English Ale yeast (WLP007).  Will this (or any) yeast clean up whatever diacetyl remains in the mash as well as the diacetyl generated by the yeast during fermentation?  I assume boiling won't kill off the flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:  It has been nearly two weeks and I am still getting very obvious buttery diacetyl characters in both the the aroma and the flavor.  At this point it is difficult to tell whether the diacetyl has decreased during aging, but if I had to guess, I would suspect that it hasn't by any noticeable degree.  It is a very low gravity beer, sitting at 3% ABV, so these sorts of off flavors really stand out. I was given the the suggestion elsewhere to get a yeast starter going and to pitch it at high krausen.  While I dont see the harm in trying (other than wasting time and effort) is it worth the attempt when the diacetyl is still so prevalent?  Am I too impatient at two weeks despite the low gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-10-11T07:30:08.110" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T18:45:09.730" Title="Will yeast clean up diacetyl generated in a sour mash?" Tags="|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10751" CreationDate="2013-09-29T01:20:13.807" Score="4" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;On page 63 of Brewing Better Beer, Gordon Strong says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some of the cold break material can actually help the yeast, but too much can contribute off-flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can attest to both of these. A couple of times I have,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pitched&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let the trub settle for a couple of hours&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;racked the really clear wort to a fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I was left with a bit of trub that had a bit of nice wort in it, I fermented a bit of it in PET bottle. The fermentation took off extremely fast. But the resulting &quot;beer&quot; had a pretty nasty smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question:&#xA;Can anyone tell me what the off smell/taste from excess cold break is? Is it one of the common ones, like diacetyl, acetaldehde, etc.? I couldn't identify it, but it was pretty distinct. I often detect this same aroma at bottling time, but it always goes away soon after bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2013-10-27T04:02:11.557" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T04:02:11.557" Title="Off flavor/odor from cold break" Tags="|off-flavor|aroma|trub|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10662" CreationDate="2013-09-29T08:02:12.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not speaking from experience here, since I don't brew sours, but the yeast should reabsorb the diacetyl, just as it does in a regular ferment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast will convert diacetyl into acetoin then 2,3-butanediol, which has much higher taste threshold than diacetyl. Both conversions provide energy, and so help sustain the yeast when other energy sources are exhausted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to condition the sour for longer than usual after primary is complete to give the yeast time to convert all the diacetyl, but I imagine you're conditioning the beer on the yeast anyway.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.professorbeer.com/articles/diacetyl.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diacetyl&lt;/a&gt;, Professor Beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T08:02:12.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10662" CreationDate="2013-09-29T16:20:24.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being that it's a sour and you pitched bacteria, it's entirely possible that the diacetyl is a result of your purposeful &quot;infection&quot;.  I don't think there are any guarantees, but I do think it's possible that it will be at least somewhat reduced by the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T16:20:24.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-29T22:52:52.913" Score="2" ViewCount="1196" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for some advice, I have been home brewing from kits for a couple of years and really enjoy the hobby. I have experimented with various sugar's to alter the taste and would now like to move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish to use Bavarian Smoked -rauchmalz malt(crushed). What I need to know is the best way to add the smokey flavour to a lager kit. After reading various articles I seem to be more confused with the options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steep in 2nd priming for 5 to 10 days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mix can of wort with 3 litres of water and boil with malt for 20mins before adding to cold water to make 25 litres &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix the kit as per instructions and add malt into the primary fermentation in a muslin bag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am totally of key please say, I would appreciate any advice. If I am using malt do I still need to use the same amount of sugar? Use a basic lager kit as non variant, can of wort, 1kg sugar and yeast.&#xA;Cheers scott&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3869" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T14:17:52.527" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T13:04:00.730" Title="Adding flavour to standard kit" Tags="|flavor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10666" CreationDate="2013-09-30T15:49:45.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're trying to do is called a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter18-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;partial-mash&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.  Basically instead of adding your malt-syrup (and/or dried malt extract) to water and boiling it, you're adding it to wort by including an additional first step.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John Palmer's &quot;How to Brew&quot; has a good guide which can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter13.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, as does &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/learn/partial-mash-walkthrough/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Northern Brewer&lt;/a&gt;.  There are lots of resources online though, so if you still feel a bit confused just google &quot;partial mash brewing&quot;.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-09-30T17:34:42.940" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T17:34:42.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2013-09-30T16:29:42.693" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not refrigerate my beer until it is ready to drink, generally about 2 weeks after bottling. I will leave it at room temperature, out of the sun, indefinitely from the time I bottle it until I am ready to drink it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3870" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T16:29:42.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10673" CreationDate="2013-09-30T17:47:48.220" Score="2" ViewCount="8056" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any concern with warming up a fermentation by placing the bucket/carboy on an electric heating pad? Will it kill the yeast that settles on the bottom?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T18:43:41.603" Title="Heating pad for fermentation" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10669" CreationDate="2013-09-30T17:58:09.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll want to ensure consistent temperatures.  If your heating pad goes above seventy degrees Fahrenheit, you'll need a temperature controller to prevent it from going above.  The ideal way to do this would be to have a heating pad that turns on the moment it is supplied power.  I know a few you have to plug them in, turn them on, and then they'll run.  You'll need a way to automatically have it start heating once it receives power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a temperature controller.  I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00368D6JA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Johnson Controls Digital Thermostat Control Unit&lt;/a&gt;.  You'll need to affix the temperature probe to the side of your carboy/bucket.  The ideal way to do this is to tape it to the side of the vessel, and place several layers worth of bubble wrap over it to act as insulation.  If possible, try to avoid wrapping the pad over the bubble wrap, as that could heat the insulation and skew your reading.  This way, the probe is getting only the temperature of the wort, and it'll turn on and off as the temperature hits the set thresholds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, I've heard good things about &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/products/fermwraptm-heater.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fermwrap&lt;/a&gt;, but have never used one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T17:58:09.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10669" CreationDate="2013-09-30T18:10:28.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way to approach it is to put the fermenter in a large plastic tub and fill the tub with water.  Put an aquarium heater in the water.  You may want to put the heater on a timer.  The water provides a thermal buffer to reduce temp swings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T18:10:28.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10669" CreationDate="2013-09-30T18:43:41.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends upon how hot the heat pad gets - you want to use a pad that doesn't go above 30&amp;deg;C/85&amp;deg;F.  I use a waterproof pad that was originally intended as a pet warmer. It has an adjustable thermostat to set the highest temperature it will reach. I have mine set to 25&amp;deg;C/75&amp;deg;F. So, even though it is connected to a temperature controller, the heat pad thermostat ensures that the underside of the carboy doesn't go above a safe temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T18:43:41.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10674" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-01T13:14:48.420" Score="0" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopschart.com/zoom.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this chart&lt;/a&gt; several times in bars and such, and was looking at little closer at the numbers. The bottom graph i can agree with on the numbers, but the top part listing the different characteristics I can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For starters having a scale of % seems wrong. I could perhaps start agreeing with with things if it was changed to mL/100 gram sample of total oil, or I at least could start back calculating into something that gives me a rough number to match those on the scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, anyone know how the chart numbers were determined? Yes I sent an email to who is suppose to the author of the chart, still awaiting an answer,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T06:28:51.777" Title="Question about a Hop Chart" Tags="|hops|bitterness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10666" CreationDate="2013-10-01T14:34:02.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're going to want to do is take your crushed malt, put it in a muslin bag, then put it in your brew pot with a gallon (or 3.8 litres) or so of water and heat it to ~155°F (68°C). Turn off the heat and wrap your brew pot with a blanket (or put it in an insulated drink cooler) for a half hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, remove the bag and try to get out as much of the water as you can (either squeeze it or hang it over the pot to drain).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, add enough water to bring the total volume up to whatever is recommended for your kit and follow the kit directions.  I'm not sure how &quot;convertable&quot; (i.e., how much sugar you can extract) smoked rauchmaltz is, but you may wind up with a higher FG than your kit indicates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T13:02:05.957" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T13:02:05.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2013-10-01T14:49:28.330" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real problem with leaving beer in primary for too long isn't the yeast, it's the hops.  If you're dry-hopping, leaving the hops in the fermenter for too long can cause vegetal or grassy off-flavors.  If you're not dry-hopping, then I don't think there is a problem.  I've left several batches in primary for a couple of months and haven't noticed any ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T14:49:28.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10674" CreationDate="2013-10-01T15:40:15.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, you're asking about the listings for the amount of a particular type of oil in the hops.  That is derived empirically by measuring the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T15:40:15.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10679" CreationDate="2013-10-02T00:50:07.720" Score="1" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ordered around 16 extract batches from Northern Brewer. I've noticed a trend in the time the instructions ask you to wait before bottling: if the OG is greater than 1.050, bottle after four weeks, and less than 10-50, bottle after two weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the higher OG ones, the instructions seem to always call for a secondary fermentation. I have stopped doing secondaries on the suggestion of this stackexchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any particular reason for doing 4 week long primaries instead of two week long primaries?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just made two batches from MoreBeer (my LHBS) and I was told that there should never be a reason to do most ales for longer than 2 weeks before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T01:18:04.653" Title="Why do some Extract Recipies Call for Two Weeks and Others for Four Weeks?" Tags="|fermentation|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10678" CreationDate="2013-10-02T01:18:04.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're trying to make one simple, common set of instructions that satisfy both a large range of beers as well as a huge variability in customers, across the dimensions primarily of: inherent yeast performance, yeast health, lag time, fermentation temperature and adherence to instructions/technique, including a comfortable margin of &quot;safety&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short: they're very general purpose, boilerplate instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're starting to get to the point you understand the process independent of those instructions … it's not like NB extract has an owner's manual that's unique from MoreBeer extract, or the wort you'll get from all-grain, or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go by gravity, not time; most beers (including above 1.050) will be done inside of 2 weeks.  As you've learned, secondary is unnecessary without extended aging. Find a process that works for your tools/time/schedule, and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Na Zdrowie!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T01:18:04.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10688" CreationDate="2013-10-02T01:41:37.517" Score="4" ViewCount="4627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a batch fermenting at the moment. I had expected the OG to be 1.05x but it was 1.06x. I  generally have little problem with fermentation and expect the batch to come out at somewhere like 1.0.1x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will probably make the beer &gt;6%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to rack to secondary after fermentation had stopped. Is it possible to add water into the secondary to decrease the ABV? How much can I and should I add to get it more to 5.0-5.5%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch size in the primary is 43L with about 6L of relatively heavy trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="576" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T08:01:20.743" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T08:01:20.743" Title="How can I reduce the ABV?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|primary-fermentation|final-gravity|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10632" CreationDate="2013-10-02T02:50:45.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say bubble are you meaning the airlock? It could be an issue with the seal of the carboy. Sometimes there is a leak in the seal so the brew is &quot;bubbling&quot; (this happens with the CO2 escaping when the alcohol is being produced) but you just cant see it in the airlock. As the others say we will need more information to solve the issue for you but you can always try the brew and see if you can taste alcohol or just off fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T02:50:45.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10660" CreationDate="2013-10-02T02:59:37.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly I would clean out the bottles even if they are new. You spend a bit of time and effort making your brew so for the fact of a few minutes I would clean them to make sure you don't have any off flavors or bad batches that may have been picked up from the factory or supplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the no rinse solution as Denny says there it no need to rinse. Rinsing them has a chance that you will make the bottles un-sanitized. Drain as best you can then the amount left in the bottles is not enough to impart any flavors or affect the brew in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI with the no rinse solution I have a brother in-law that does not like to leave the no rinse in there and will rinse with the bottles very hot water then put the caps on them straight after rinsing and his brews come out fine. In my opinion I wouldn't waste my time rinsing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T02:59:37.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2013-10-02T03:05:24.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it will be possible to add extra water to decrease the ABV but is it really necessary? If so I would get purified water and for a 43L batch add a few liters to decrease the ABV. Do this in the new carboy before racking the brew into it. If it was me I would leave it though. As mentioned by others without having the exact readings it is hard to say how much/little to add.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T03:05:24.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10666" CreationDate="2013-10-02T06:30:58.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, none of the options are correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steep in second primary: not sure what you mean - but mostly likely steeping in secondary fermentation. You definitely don't add grain to wort - it will turn the wort sour since grain contains a lot of bacteria. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil grains in extract: This is closer to what you need to do, but you don't want to actually boil the grains, since they will impart a puckering quality to the beer from the grain husks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add malt to primary in a muslin bag: again, similar to #1, you don't want to be adding grains to the wort once it's fermenting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to do is put the grain in a muslin bag and steep them in water for 30 minutes. After adding the grains, the water should read about 63-68&amp;deg;C (145.5-154.5°F). This will convert the starches in the grain into sugars, so you don't end up with starchy beer. After half an hour, rinse the grains in more warm water. You then add both lots of water to your pan, boil it up and then add the tin of extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This technique is called a &quot;partial mash&quot; or &quot;mini-mash&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T13:04:00.730" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T13:04:00.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2013-10-02T15:21:40.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;BE SURE to boil any water you add at this point to deoxygenate it.  If you don't, the added water will oxidize your beer and promote faster staling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T15:21:40.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10689" CreationDate="2013-10-03T03:58:24.513" Score="2" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the options of a plastic barrel fermenter that has a screw on lid or a plastic pail type fermenter with a snap on lid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mainly brew beers and ciders but am looking at getting into wine and mead at some stage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is one type of fermenter better than the other for these types of brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T23:06:18.690" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T23:06:18.690" Title="Is one fermenter better than another for brewing beer or cider?" Tags="|beer|cider|wine|fermenter|beginner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2013-10-03T07:11:48.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can dilute/blend your beer to diminish the ABV (and increase the volume).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brew Your Own magazine has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/237-blending-for-volume-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;nice article&lt;/a&gt; on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T07:11:48.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10687" CreationDate="2013-10-03T11:58:54.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they are the same volume then there's probably not much in it. But I would imagine the pail to have more volume than the barrel. For primary fermentation, you need about 1/3 additional volume in the fermentor as headspace. So if you are fermenting 5 gallons, you should aim for a fermentor that's 7-8 gallons in size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headspace is necessary since the yeast can form a large head of foam (kraeusen) that will take up much of the headspace. (It can even overflow out the airlock if you've a particularly active ferment.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For long term aging of high abv beers, wines and meads, the opposite is true. Then you want a fermentor that is as close as possible to your batch size to reduce headspace to the minimum. This reduces the amount of oxygen in contact with the beverage, which mitigates oxidative staling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T11:58:54.040" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2013-10-03T22:47:07.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;3 days outside the fridge (at room temperature) is fine in my experience. I carbonate with unfermented beer (Speise) instead of sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T22:47:07.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2013-10-03T22:49:23.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you add water, make sure you don't get chlorinated water like some cities provide. The yeast doesn't like the clorine and you could get problems with bottle carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T22:49:23.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10695" CreationDate="2013-10-04T04:07:18.990" Score="1" ViewCount="1922" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last sunday we brewed a couple of black porter batches with my buddies and we used a generous amount of roasted barley with pilsen malt. We put it into the frigde as soon as we finished mashing, as we did the brewday before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have arranged with a local bakery to give them my spent grain for them to bake over a few days. The problem is that last time our spent grain smelled nice all the time (Amber with caramel malt, pilsen and a bit of brown malt) but now it has a funky smell all over it (brown, chocolate malt, roasted barley and pilsen). Today, when I opened the bag to inspect it, it smelled alright but when you pry it arount the funky smell comes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made some malt cake a cuple days ago and it was alright. I'm afraid to deliver this spent grain now because of the smell. I tested a little sample in the oven and I kindof hint the smell comes from some natural compound in the roasted barley, but that's just a hunch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will test it tomorrow morning by baking malt cake again and see if it tastes good, or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea why it smells weird this time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3485" LastActivityDate="2023-01-11T22:26:28.967" Title="Why is my spent grain smelling funky?" Tags="|malt|spent-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10674" CreationDate="2013-10-04T06:28:51.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an unfortunate answer, perhaps, but I recommend you not believe any hop analysis that you don't receive from a lab, personally. The worst case should be that you use direct laboratory information obtained by someone that you've chosen to trust. Anything else, don't rely on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The internet is full of so much BS when it comes to hops, that most of what you read is crap. It's sad, but it's true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just trying to help you out. Brew single hop beers with a neutral grain and yeast, trust your senses, and build your own database.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3811" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T06:28:51.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10693" CreationDate="2013-10-04T14:19:04.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spent grain goes bad fast, and when it goes bad, it's bad.  And not a little bad.  &lt;strong&gt;bad&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;not even &lt;strong&gt;bad&lt;/strong&gt; in fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;bad&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used spent grains in compost for a long time and if you don't mix it in while it's still hot (or if you're unlucky enough to leave it sitting for a few hours or - god forbid - days) you will face a soul-crushing, stomach-lurching, ramped-up-bile-producing foulness the likes of which you'll never hope to encounter again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it's great for making bread with :p  However you &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to follow some basic protocols.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/community/threads/how-to-prepare-spent-grains-for-use-in-baking-and-cooking.23450/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's a good guide&lt;/a&gt;.  The most important thing is squeezing out the liquid, and if possible, spreading it out on a clean tarp or something so it dries/cools quickly before you throw it in the freezer (freezer, &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; fridge).  Think about it - hot, wet, full of pre-processed sugar...what better environment could there be for bacteria?  If you're brewing on a large scale (or just have a lot of grain), dip out a few scoops to save for making bread with (alternately you can use it to make &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.michiganbeerblog.net/2011/11/spent-grain-bread.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sponge&lt;/a&gt; for bread while it's still warm, but since you're not actually making the bread you won't want to do this) and use the rest for compost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T14:19:04.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-04T14:30:02.167" Score="1" ViewCount="1147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to attempt an partial mash ESB. I will use distilled water and add burton salts. I know I need to add the salts to my mash water, but I've read if you are doing extract you just add it to the boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a partial mash, should I divide up the additions to mash water and boil? FYI, I have about 10 lbs of grains and 5 lbs of extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2101" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T15:43:38.667" Title="Adding Burton Water Salts to Partial Mash" Tags="|techniques|water|partial-mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10703" CreationDate="2013-10-04T14:36:48.907" Score="4" ViewCount="14596" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always been curious about the practice of making a 3 gallon wort and then topping it off with water to make 5 gallons to ferment. I might be doing it wrong, but I add my cold, filtered water into my primary and then add the chilled wort into that. I have always been curious why this is done this way, it seems like regular filtered tap water, might effect the taste or worse yet add unwanted bacteria into the mixture. Am I doing this wrong, or why is this not a concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T16:14:16.510" Title="Adding water to wort to get desired volume" Tags="|fermentation|wort|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10732" CreationDate="2013-10-04T14:44:43.580" Score="1" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a counterflow chiller. But then I got to thinking how to filter the hops out of my wort. The last thing I want to do is clog the chiller with hops. I know I could use a hop bag. But does that work for 0 minute additions? Do I just switch to dry hopping? For what it's worth I use pellet hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2101" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T17:56:19.330" Title="Filters wort when using a counterflow" Tags="|hops|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10698" CreationDate="2013-10-04T16:17:34.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also use a CFC and use whole hops with a false bottom in the BK.  If you want to keep using pellets, you could use a bazooka screen and whirlpool, but you'll leave more wort behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="738" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T16:17:34.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10766" CreationDate="2013-10-04T17:15:34.127" Score="2" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a good guide for how to brew wine from grapes online? I have searched around and have found very bad and inconsistent instructions. A lot of what I found makes me nervous about lack of sanitation practices or different steps from what another guide tells me. I don't know which one to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T19:24:34.443" Title="Wine brewing guide" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10697" CreationDate="2013-10-04T17:29:24.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use tap water, personally, but I know people who do and they don't &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; to have an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although bacteria is a concern - the bigger issue is chlorine.  You can solve that problem by just leaving the water uncovered overnight.  The chlorine will dissipate naturally and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if it's only 2 gallons that you're adding, why not just boil that amount the night before so it has time to cool and use that?  Marginally more work but you won't have to worry about bacteria OR chlorine that way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T17:29:24.960" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10696" CreationDate="2013-10-04T19:09:10.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason to add the burton salts to the mash would be to adjust the pH, and secondly to impart a more assertive hop bitterness. Generally the salts will lower the pH if it's just comprised of Gypsum, but it really depends upon the composition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After adding the malts, test the mash with a pH meter - if it's well over 5.2pH, then add increments of 5g of the burton salts until the pH is around 5.1-5.3pH. If it's well under, then add baking soda until the pH is in the right level. (You can also try chalk, but it's almost insoluble so quite difficult to use.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a pH meter, then I would still add the salts, plus some baking soda if you have dark malts, which provides buffering capacity in the water against any dark malts in the grist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-04T13:07:24.457" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T13:07:24.457" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10697" CreationDate="2013-10-04T20:00:55.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bacteria typically isn't an issue as there shouldn't be anything terribly nasty in your tap water, and once the yeast take off they tend to take over.  That said, I know a lot of people use bottled spring water instead of their tap water, due to taste issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think one of the big reasons for brewing smaller amounts and topping off with water is due to equipment.  People are more likely to buy kits if they can brew them on their stove with a stock pot they already have rather than having to invest in a full 10G pot which they may not be able to bring to a boil on their stove, or which they can't cool in their sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T20:00:55.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2013-10-04T23:01:38.860" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;many incorrect statements here. Here are the simple facts. You need a 5 carbon molecule sugar to brew beer. For ex, Maltose is the sugar in malt syrup. lighter beers have other 5 carbon sugars added to the wort such as fructose or dextrose. Table sugar (Sucrose) WILL NOT WORK!!!. It is a SIX carbon molecule sugar and consequently the molecule is literally TOO LARGE for the  yeast to break down. This is not an opinion, it is a basic fact of brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3880" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T23:01:38.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10706" CreationDate="2013-10-05T01:20:16.683" Score="2" ViewCount="13941" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDITED&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a cider that I have made following the steps on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=La38oQjdyPw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CraigTube&lt;/a&gt; for his Hard Apple Cider. The only difference is that I have used Champagne yeast and the batch is 22L. I know you are all going to say to check my hydrometer reading but unfortunately I smashed the hydrometer before I could take the initial reading. The airlock still has activity and is still bubbling after 18 days. It is bubbling strongly every 13 seconds. How will I know when it is done. Should I wait until the airlock has no activity at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;21L Juice (7bottles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast Nutrient (Boil up raisins (that don’t have sulphite on them) and small amount of water, mash up the raisins and simmer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10- 14Cup’s corn sugar or dextrose (the more sugar the more kick it will have)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 Lalvin EC1118 Yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil up yeast nutrient and mash up raisins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take out a little juice from the bottle and add sugar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shake out the sugar(even do this for the fermenter batch as it saves time and stiring)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put in the yeast nutrient(make sure that it isn’t still too hot) and shake the bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the yeast and shake the bottle&#xA;a.  If you are making a fermenter size batch then pour it all in the fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave that until the fermenter has stopped bubbling and leave for a few days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok I have done a small scale test. I have had 1.5L of juice and 1cup sugar(200grams)&#xA;The reading was 1.092. This test does not include the boiled up rasins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok so another reading has been taken. This is 1.000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-10-10T05:27:33.000" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T05:27:33.000" Title="How to tell if a cider is finished without hydrometer" Tags="|cider|wine|airlock|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10705" CreationDate="2013-10-05T10:34:52.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even with champagne yeast, fermentation shouldn't take more than a couple of days to complete fully.  At the eighteen day mark, what you're seeing is degassing of the cider, where residual CO2 from the fermentation is escaping the liquid, not fermentation.  At this point, your cider has complete fermentation, and should be aged as necessary before being bottled/kegged off for consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the only way to verify this is to purchase another hydrometer, and take readings.  If the measurements don't change over the course of 2-4 days, you'll know that the fermentation has completed, but judging by your disclaimer in your question, you already know that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: After seeing that your gravity is at 1.045 after 18+ days, your cider is not degassing, but still fermenting.  As far why it is still fermenting after 18 days, I would guess that raisins did not provide enough nutrient to the yeast.  Cider by itself lacks a lot of essential nutrients needed by the yeast to ferment fully, and quickly.  At this point, I would recommend making the purchase and getting some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_productdetail.cfm?ProductID=15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;commercial yeast nutrient&lt;/a&gt;.  There are many different brands of it, most of which are very effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot get any yeast nutrient, your best bet is to be patient, and wait until you hit a terminal gravity where the gravity stays steady for a couple of days.  At that point it has fully fermented.  With a high gravity of ~1.092 (according to small scale), you are going to want to let it age for some time before consuming, so it doesn't sound like you should be in any hurry to see it ferment out all the way, so long as it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T23:27:45.270" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T23:27:45.270" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10697" CreationDate="2013-10-06T16:14:16.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I buy two gallons of distilled water at the store and freeze it.  When it's time cut it open and put the ice in the primary and poor the wort over it.  Thats how I chill the wort down before pitching the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one might be of interest &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7434/ice-the-wort-for-fast-cooling&quot;&gt;Ice the wort for fast cooling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T16:14:16.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-06T17:39:32.583" Score="4" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner and as a beginner almost everything tells you to use malt extracts to brew your beer.  So after a few batches I think I am ready to move up but I am wondering if it's worth the extra work.  Is the beer really better?  Does it require a lot more work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One big question I have is do most people progress onto all grain brews or do they stay with the extract brews for simplicity?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because I am starting a service that will deliver a new recipe's ingredients to your door every month.  I can't decide if the recipes should be for all grain or extract brews, so I am really trying to get a consensus. I may just let everyone pick which one they want if it is a mixed opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3882" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T12:33:36.640" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T12:46:27.230" Title="What is the most popular method of brewing beer?" Tags="|all-grain|extract|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-10-06T18:03:32.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-06T18:23:54.080" Score="4" ViewCount="12454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started homebrewing and a couple of friends told me my airlock on my plastic bucket primary should be bubbling.  After 3 days of primary fementing with dry yeast, I've seen nothing, but, you can see through the bucket that there is two inches of foam on top of the wort.  In addition, when you push on the lid, the odor of the wort is strong.  So, I'm thinking that there isn't a good seal on the bucket.  I have two questions.  Is this a problem?  How do I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3883" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T15:41:35.510" Title="Primary Fermentation Plastic Bucket Lid" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10708" CreationDate="2013-10-06T18:25:29.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to figures from the American Homebrewers Assoc. and retail groups, most homewbrewers brew with extract.  All grain requires more time, equipment, and effort.  Obviously, a lot of people feel it's worth it, but more people have constraints on time, money and space.  For those people, extract is the only way they can brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T18:25:29.247" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-10-06T18:25:29.247" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10709" CreationDate="2013-10-06T20:16:50.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of small things that you can try to fix it but it would be best to buy a new bucket with a proper seal from a home brew store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One fix could be to wrap the bucket lid in electrical tape to seal it better. I have a friend who has the same issue as you and he does this which works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing depending on the lid is you could try to put some vasoline gel in the rim of the lid to help block any gaps but you may end up having to use a lot depending on how bad the leak is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to check is if the airlock has a proper seal. You could also vasoline that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to this being a problem if your brew is fermenting then there will be CO2 escaping from the bucket from the leak in the seal, which will mean that infection wont be able to find its way inside the bucket with the pressure of the CO2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the fermentation stops then there will be no CO2 escaping meaning that infections can find their way into the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A way to find out when the brew has stopped fermenting would be to take hydrometer readings and compare them to what the brew company says it should be at the end of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T20:16:50.397" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10709" CreationDate="2013-10-06T22:08:43.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer: It's not a problem. Don't fix it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of my 200-or-so fermentations have been initially in a primary pail with a loose-fitting lid, and then racked to a carboy to wait for bottling time.  That way of brewing (2-vessel fermentation) used to be the norm, but keeping the wort/beer in a single vessel has become the &quot;in&quot; way of homebrewing recently.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you not worry about making your primary pail air-tight, and rack to a carboy soon after the foam drops down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T22:08:43.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2109" CreationDate="2013-10-07T07:00:54.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're brewing your own stuff and you want a gluten free recipe, try this. Instead of barley malt, use honey. Make a mead (honey wine). Water it down to beer strength (5-6%). Then add a bunch of hops in your boil to give it a bitter beery taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give you a nice hoppy boozy beverage that has no gluten. Also, you'll be a viking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3886" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T07:00:54.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10708" CreationDate="2013-10-07T16:25:28.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd do extract and assume that people that have advanced to all grain get their ingredients themselves and formulate their own recipes. That said, do some market research and find out who your customers are. Check your competitor's web sites; after all, many people already sell beer kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T16:25:28.817" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-10-07T16:25:28.817" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10709" CreationDate="2013-10-07T20:09:55.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although the air lock isn't always a good indicator on what is happening in the bucket, sometimes fermentation is going slowly and you don't see any bubbling, it still feels good to see the thing going crazy, and it does keep the bad bugs out. So in short, I would consider it a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the air lock is filled with sanitizer to the proper level. If that's good, then I would check the seal, and if you can't figure out what's wrong, then get another lid if possible, or another bucket and lid if not. Don't do anything crazy like throw the beer because of the seal on this batch, it will more than likely be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mike Scott&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3889" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T20:09:55.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10708" CreationDate="2013-10-08T02:41:21.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there's a lot of folks that stick with extract brewing and that's great. You can make awesome beer with extract. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All grain (and I'm only just beginning this myself) is about the level of control you can have over your recipe. For example, if I'm an extract brewer I can't use Fawcett Maris Otter as my base malt. I'm stuck using Briess or Muntons Light DME yet again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't go all grain then partial grain is a great option. You don't need any extra space or equipment and it gives you more control over your recipe. You might want to look into the brew-in-a-bag technique if you're looking to step up your game. Check YouTube for BIAB tutorials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3709" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T02:41:21.120" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-10-08T02:41:21.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4248" CreationDate="2013-10-08T08:14:09.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With all that said... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few instances that pitching the whole cake is a good thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples: Edwort's Oktoberfest ale is poured right onto the cake left from his kolsch recipe. As in you brew the Kolsch purposely to have the cake to ferment the Oktoberfest with. After brewing these brews it occurred to me that this would work for another beer. So I brewed a fairly mild pils to have a large cake to dump a DFH 90 min clone on. Worked GREAT!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are specific examples of when it is a good idea to dump on a whole cake. Generally though I don't recommend it for the reasons stated above by those more knowledgeable than I.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3890" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T08:14:09.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2013-10-08T19:29:18.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@ Hokiesguy95: your beer was not a failure because of excess time in primary (three days by your count), that would have nothing to do with soapy, unpleasant flavors. It would take WAY longer than ten days to produce any sort of soapy flavors from yeast autolysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old advice of getting the beer out of primary as quickly as possible is antiquated and need not be repeated ever again. Just because there are no visible signs of fermentation does not mean the yeast is finished working; even with absolutely zero airlock activity the yeast are still cleaning up the byproducts of fermentation (including acetaldehyde and diacetyl), and allowing proper time for this work to be done will result in a more refined beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fermentation process is a 21 day primary (under controlled temperatures), and then straight into a serving keg or bottle for most beers and into a lagering vessel for any lagering or long-term aging (barleywines, etc.). This extended primary has only resulted in much better beer, not worse, and no off-flavors or undesirable yeast byproducts. Oh, and some ribbons to boot.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3893" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T19:29:18.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10720" CreationDate="2013-10-09T02:48:08.147" Score="2" ViewCount="3677" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recipe uses store bought apple juice with no added preservatives or additives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The store bought juice has an expiration date of April 2014. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the cider expire on this date also, or has the process of turning it into alcohol changed the expiration date?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing is if the juice was passed its expiration date before making the cider will that be an issue? The juice tasted fine and I have had a sample of the cider and it tastes really good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the steps to make it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;21L Juice (7bottles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast Nutrient (Boil up raisins (that don’t have sulphite on them) and small amount of water, mash up the raisins and simmer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10- 14Cup’s corn sugar or dextrose (the more sugar the more kick it will have)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 Lalvin EC1118 Yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps&#xA;1.Boil up yeast nutrient and mash up raisins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.Take out a little juice from the bottle and add sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.Shake out the sugar(even do this for the fermenter batch as it saves time and stirring)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.Put in the yeast nutrient(make sure that it isn’t still too hot) and shake the bottle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5.Add the yeast and shake the bottle a. If you are making a fermenter size batch then &#xA;pour it all in the fermenter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.Leave that until the fermenter has stopped bubbling and leave for a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T10:04:24.287" Title="What is a hard apple cider expiration date" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10719" CreationDate="2013-10-09T10:04:24.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have sanitized everything carefully and you bottle condition, then your cider will have a shelf life of several years. You will most likely have drunk it all before it goes bad...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2637" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T10:04:24.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-09T15:11:31.633" Score="1" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of calculators that tell you how much starter to make for a specific amount of starting yeast and for a specific gravity of the wort. On packages/vials of yeast it tells you the estimate of how many yeast cells there are in there, however when you harvest your own yeast how are you to know how many yeast cells you have? How do you know how much starter to make if you don't know how many yeast cells you are starting with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T15:29:17.367" Title="How to know how much starter to make from harvested yeast?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|starter|harvest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10721" CreationDate="2013-10-09T15:29:17.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;scientific&quot; way would be to use a microscope and hemacytometer to count cells.  The empirical method is what I use and has worked well for me for several hundred batches.  You make a guess!  I use between 1/3-1/2 of a previous slurry if I'm going to direct pitch the slurry.  I use between 2 TBSP. -1/4 cup if I'm going to make a new starter from slurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T15:29:17.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10726" CreationDate="2013-10-09T22:16:31.673" Score="2" ViewCount="2239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Muntons Premium Larger Kit and have purchased some hops to add some aroma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hops I am using are called Wakatu (Hallertau Aroma) pellets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions I have from the home brew store is to steep 15-30 grams of hop pellets in boiled water then add the water(hop tea) and the hop bag to the fermenter. From what I understand this is done at the start of the brewing process when you are mixing the sugar, water, and Muntons Kit before the yeast goes in. The hop bag then stays in for the duration of the fermenting through till the bottling stage. No secondary is being done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this give a sufficient hoppy flavor to the beer? I want to keep things simple as this is the first time I am dealing with hops but at the same time I still want to get a nice flavor out of them. Am I correct in adding the hops at the start of the fermentation process or should I add them once fermentation is over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this method and how did it turn out? Are there any other methods that are straight forward yet give a nice flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T08:28:36.710" Title="Adding hopped tea at the start of fermentation" Tags="|beer|hops|dry-hop|kits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10723" CreationDate="2013-10-09T23:29:02.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried hop teas several times and always found them to be harsh and vegetal.  I even tried adjusting the pH of the water with no improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T23:29:02.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10723" CreationDate="2013-10-10T12:22:10.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you're going to be boiling the kit (either DME or LME - you still have to boil it) - I'd say just add those hops with 5 minutes left to boil then carry on as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally anything added within 15 minutes of flameout will contribute to aroma as the oils responsible won't be wholly lost - as they would be if you were to boil the same hops for 60 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some good info about hops from John Palmer's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;about your kit:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen kits like this, and I don't agree with the included instructions.  First think about what this kit is - essentially a pre-packaged, half-made beer.  Someone (on a large scale) has made the wort already and then dehydrated it to varying degrees.  On paper, it should be the beer equivalent of freeze-dried beef wellington - just add some water and you're ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like this approach for two reasons - &lt;strong&gt;lack of sanitation&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;limited modification potential&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanitation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of reasons to boil your wort that I won't go into here - if you check out the link I included above you can read all of John Palmer's excellent &lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt;, but I'd really suggest you buy a paper copy.  In any case, back to your kit - this is half-made wort that has been dehydrated and then tinned, shelved, shipped out and shelved again until you recently bought it.  I have good faith that Munton's is using high quality sanitation practices, but considering how long that can may have sat, a little bit of bacteria could have gone a long way.  It's incredibly unlikely that your can of Munton's syrup is contaminated with anything at all - but it pays to be paranoid when it comes to sanitation, and it's an appropriate step to let the beer gods know that you're capable of being their priest...or something.  A fifteen-minute boil is enough to kill anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modification&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said about sanitation - the other, perhaps more tangible reason, is that boiling opens a world of potential that you're clearly keen to tap into.  As the page that I linked to suggests, there's a lot you can do with the same hop depending on how long you leave it in contact with your boiling wort.  Beyond hops, however, you can also add sugars or other flavors - check out some of the recipes on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopville.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hopville&lt;/a&gt;.  People put all kind of stuff into their beer, some of which is experimental at best, but the point is you can take the same kit of Munton's and come out with vastly different beers if you go down the boiling road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's what I'd suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put your can of Munton's in a hot water bath so it's easier to dump out when the time comes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take whatever the largest pot in your house is and fill it with water, less maybe 3L - it should be 2/3 - 3/4 full.  Bring it to a boil and add the can of Munton's - be careful not to spill it because it's the devil to clean up.  You can dip some of the boiling water out with a ladle and swish that around inside the Munton's can to get all the goo out easier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;STIR LIKE CRAZY!  Don't let anything get stuck to the bottom and burn.  It will make your beer taste a bit strange, but more importantly that is an awful thing to try to clean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the water (now wort) has come up to a boil again, the boil has begun.  If you are only adding some aroma, I think a 15 minute boil is more than enough.  Put your hops into a cheesecloth bag or large tea-ball and throw them in.  Be careful of boil-overs at this point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When fifteen minutes have gone by, shut off the heat and dump the wort into a food safe plastic bucket (a normal bottling bucket) - if it's food safe, then it's high-temperature safe.  You want to expose the wort to oxygen at this point, and doing so will also cool it off considerably. If you have a wort-chiller you don't have to do this.  You can fish the hop bag out of the wort at this point using a sanitized spoon or something similar.  Careful, it'll be hot!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add your water to top it up to 23L (or however much).  This will further cool the wort down in addition to diluting it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer the wort to whatever you're fermenting in (or leave it in the bottling bucket), wait till the temperature is around 25ºC, pitch the yeast, and put the lid/airlock on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait 2 weeks and bottle it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T08:28:36.710" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10730" CreationDate="2013-10-10T17:14:28.003" Score="0" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always primed my beer at the same rate (5g corn sugar/L) but a recent spate of gushers has made me think that perhaps this is too much - is 4g/L more sensible? or even 3g?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T21:05:34.533" Title="Priming Sugar Amounts" Tags="|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10729" CreationDate="2013-10-10T18:48:46.123" Score="1" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I need a press to make wine from grapes? Are there cheap alternatives? If I need a press is there a cheap way I can make one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T18:27:43.593" Title="Do I need a press to make wine from grapes?" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10728" CreationDate="2013-10-10T20:47:46.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made small quantities without a press, but it's very labor intensive. For a 1 gallon batch, it's reasonable but much larger than that you're going to want some automation. The manual process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;De-stem the grapes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crush the grapes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red wine? Ferment on the skin. White wine? Skip to 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the crushed grapes in 5 gallon paint strainer bag and express the juice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T20:47:46.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10727" CreationDate="2013-10-10T21:05:34.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;4 g/L is a reasonable amount of priming sugar. It will add around 1 volume of CO2. Beer fermented at room temperature will contain round 1 volume of dissolved CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, so adding the priming sugar brings the total CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; volumes to 2, which is a typical carbonation for many styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of priming calculators available online. You enter the beer's temperature, volume and desired carbonation level. The calculator will tell you how much sugar to add. &lt;a href=&quot;http://kotmf.com/tools/prime.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This one&lt;/a&gt; comes with a nice explanation of how the calculations work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're getting gushers, there are other possible explanations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the beer had not finished fermentation prior to bottling. Make sure the specific gravity is constant over a period of a few days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the beer had more dissolved CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; than typical. Probably due to low temperatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bacterial contamination. Some bug will consume sugar that brewing yeast leaves behind, producing excess carbon dioxide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incomplete mixing of priming sugar prior to bottling. Some bottles will get more priming sugar than others, and will gush. &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/301/how-can-i-prime-for-bottle-conditioning-without-oxidizing-the-beer&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; has answers pertaining to mixing the priming sugar completely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T21:05:34.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-11T02:14:49.400" Score="3" ViewCount="17712" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have an idea of how to brew a homemade tea? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to take tea leaves and boil the water to get the tea base . What do Ido from here???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3901" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2013-10-15T11:23:51.997" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T13:56:53.543" Title="How do I ferment homemade brewed tea - a black tea" Tags="|fermentation|kombucha|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10698" CreationDate="2013-10-11T17:56:19.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest and cheapest solution is to either use hop bags/socks or build a hop bag hanger which is also known as a hop spider and other names. Google for those and you'll find some simple, easy designs you can build with a quick trip to the hardware store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a Blichman kettle, you can try the Hop Blocker. Keep in mind that this is only designed for use with pellet hops (which you use anyways).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bazooka screen is an option but not as easy to install and use as the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A false bottom in the kettle is a great option but only works with whole/leaf hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hop back is an outstanding option but a bit more advanced as far as building one yourself and incorporating it into your system. The Blichmann Hop Rocket is a great product and works very well but runs about $140. A wort pump helps but isn't absolutely necessary depending on how well you can utilize gravity in your setup. Hop backs are designed for whole hop use and act as a very effective filter for trub, not to mention the amazing hop character achievable with one that you just can't get with simple whirlpool additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can still use hops for a 0 minute/whirlpool addition with any of these methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3902" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T17:56:19.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10731" CreationDate="2013-10-12T01:59:28.070" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a total noob at wine making, but i think you would need wine or champagne yeast and yeast nutrient to start it since tea leaves wouldn't have much unless you want to mix it in with a juice. Not sure if you know about airtight containers with an airlock but thats needed to for making in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3903" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T01:59:28.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7913" CreationDate="2013-10-12T02:23:49.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;LD Carlson Easy Clean&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. It is a no-rinse oxygen based compound for cleaning beer and wine-making equipment. Great for removing labels too.&#xA;You could also use &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Star San Sanitizer&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; it is a foaming acid anionic sanitizer that penetrates hard-to-see places. Both are no rinse and they do not stain and will not impart odors or off flavors. Both are great choices!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3904" LastEditorUserId="3737" LastEditDate="2013-10-15T12:19:33.890" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T12:19:33.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7152" CreationDate="2013-10-12T04:58:01.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A type of yeast nutrient that I use when I am making hard apple cider uses raisins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get about 100g of raisins in a saucepan with water that covers them by an inch.&#xA;Bring them to the boil then simmer them. &#xA;While simmering mash then to a paste and make a raisin tea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let it cool and add it to your brew. Make sure the raisins are all natural with no sulphites etc.&#xA;This idea was from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=La38oQjdyPw&amp;amp;list=TLIx_uG2unQZW-K3OyjyBegPpWKnn0L0q_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CraigTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works for my ciders so I don't see why it wont work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T04:58:01.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2013-10-13T18:56:59.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been lucky and not yet had bad results from the wild yeasts on the apples I press, however when I've pressed a larger volume of juice (3 gallons+) and want to minimise the risk of losing it to vinegar yeasts I recommend the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_bayanus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bayanus&lt;/a&gt; strain that Young's sell or failing that I usually go for a champagne yeast as I like a dry, crisp taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3911" LastActivityDate="2013-10-13T18:56:59.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2013-10-14T08:33:51.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used two different types of yeast for the same brew you are talking about.&#xA;I have used a cider yeast from the brand BlackRock. This was a nice brew with sweetness to the cider and around 8% ABV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BlackRock cider yeast was a nice summer brew that you could have out in the sun and was very refreshing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other yeast  have used is Champaign yeast. That was a very dry crisp drink with an ABV of around 13%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Champaign yeast is more of a wine tasting cider. It depends on how you want to drink it but I agree that some back sweetening may be a good idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have another one brewing at the moment that is using a beer yeast. I will let you know how that tastes when it is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendations depend on what you want. Something to drink at the beach would be using a cider yeast but at night with dinner would be the Champaign yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T08:33:51.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10742" CreationDate="2013-10-14T10:59:56.530" Score="3" ViewCount="5436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a Weis beer and my primary fermentation temp was 19C. After 2 weeks I mixed priming sugar into my beer and bottled it. I then conditioned the bottles for a week at 21C.&#xA;I know when in primary the fermentation temp is critical and higher or lower temps does have an effect on the flavour of the beer at the end. Does the fermentation that happens in the bottle while bottle conditioning to carbonate the beer have the same effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3488" LastEditorUserId="3538" LastEditDate="2013-10-15T05:40:41.410" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T20:58:27.913" Title="Does temperature during bottle conditioning effect the flavour?" Tags="|fermentation|temperature|bottle-conditioning|conditioning|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10741" CreationDate="2013-10-14T21:26:39.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is yes: the yeast will actively be fermenting in your bottle, which will contribute to the flavor. However, the effect on the overall flavor will be very very small. I've read that some commercial breweries actually bottle condition with different strains of yeast, so as not to allow harvesting of their proprietary strains that do the main fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, I always pour myself a little sampler when bottling (or, most often, kegging). That way I have an idea of what the beer tasted like before the final conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T21:26:39.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10744" CreationDate="2013-10-15T02:17:05.953" Score="1" ViewCount="1561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mixed my first batch about 7 hours ago.  I was told to put the mix and sugar into this bucket then in a week transfer it into the secondary fermenter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just walked by and see the lid on the bucket is very bulged out and I'm concerned it'll blow! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CikT1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bulging bucket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3917" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-10-15T13:42:04.540" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T03:02:50.927" Title="first batch, bucket lid is bulging" Tags="|fermenter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10743" CreationDate="2013-10-15T03:43:31.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;it might help to know what you are brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't see an airlock on the bucket so depending on what you are brewing you may have to add an airlock so the CO2 can escape the barrel. This would stop it blowing up!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again without knowing what you are brewing it is hard to give any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know more about airlocks take a look at this video. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WMc0xDbEbo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CraigTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T03:43:31.760" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10747" CreationDate="2013-10-15T03:54:49.677" Score="0" ViewCount="4971" Body="&lt;p&gt;We brewed beer (Double IPA) for the first time, and we bottled the beer 1 week ago.  Now when I look at all my bottles, they all have that white film on the top and I was wondering what it could be?  Is it something temporary, or an ingfection? Here's a photo, hard to take a good photo, I hope you'll see what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: As asked by Scott, here's a quick run down of sanitation on bottling day:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We first washed the bottles with that pink powder soap, then rinsed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We sanitised all the equipment with &quot;Aseptox&quot;, as well as the table on which stuff was on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We boiled water with the dextrose in it, then let it cool down before adding it to the beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the caps were in a sanitized solution&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottles were sanitised before filling them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8sWwv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;White film on top&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3895" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T09:15:36.070" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T09:15:36.070" Title="There is a white film on the top of my bottled beer, what is it?" Tags="|beer|bottling|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10750" CreationDate="2013-10-15T04:02:54.493" Score="0" ViewCount="1975" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my first all grain brew I bought an octoberfest all grain kit from morebeer. Before brewing with it, however, I decided to try a very cheap smash recipe. I ended up with a very low efficiency (about 65 percent), and threw in some DME I had on hand to try and raise my gravity by a few points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to brew again in the coming weekend, and while I've made notes on how I can increase my efficiency, I'd like to have a backup plan to turn it into a partial mash if need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When correcting for a poor mash, how do you decide what grade of DME to get? I'm assuming its based of SRM, so an SRM of 10 would probably mean an amber DME. Im also assuming I should introduce it right after I've collected and measure my wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2711" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T16:16:05.663" Title="Poor efficiency during first all grain brew, need an fail safe for next brew" Tags="|mash|efficiency|partial-mash|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10745" CreationDate="2013-10-15T04:11:22.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it is difficult to see in the photo, if you're certain that you see a film on the top of the beer, it is with little doubt an infection.  There isn't much you can do at this point other than to chill the beer and drink it quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it's infected, it's also likely that they'll be over-carbonated.  Bacteria like to ferment more than regular yeast can, so they'll consume more sugars than you want, causing over-carbonation (gushers and geysers).  By chilling it, you'll slow down this process, (hopefully) buying you a few extra days/weeks before the bottles become gushers or undrinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it's over-carbonated, you want to be careful opening them.  Try cracking the first bottle in the bathtub or the back porch.  Some place where it won't be a complete mess to clean up should you have a geyser.  If you do notice that more than one of them are no-joke geysers, I'd recommend storing your bottles in a container to prevent bottle bombs from blowing glass shrapnel into your walls, carpet, dresser, children's eyes, Fido, etc...  Tupperware container, large cooler, anything that can contain an exploding bottle.  If it's a geyser, it's not far off from exploding, and bottle bombs kill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, now would be a great time to look over your sanitation practices.  If this happened at bottling, it means something that your beer came in contact with has bacteria in it, be it your siphon, bottling bucket, spiggot on the bucket, hoses, racking cane, bottles, caps, etc...  I'd recommend giving your plastics a thorough bleaching (and rinsing), as well as a light scrub with a sponge or something else that's not abrasive and will scratch plastic (giving the bugs a nice little cubby to safely settle into).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2013-10-15T05:05:53.483" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T05:05:53.483" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10741" CreationDate="2013-10-15T20:58:27.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, I would say effectively &quot;no&quot; or at least not significantly (which isn't really different from djs' answer). Bottle conditioning is the same for various beer types, including beers that fermented at radically different temps (lager and saison, for example), so fermentation temps that have a huge impact on flavor do not carry over to bottle conditioning; that fermentation is over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T20:58:27.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2752" CreationDate="2013-10-15T22:16:22.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heh, go back and read the link. It has been updated to indicate this is a myth...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;It is a common misconception that campden tablet can be used to halt the ferment process...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;same &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.eckraus.com/blog/wine-making-tricks-and-tips/campden-tablets-what-they-can-and-cant-do&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; too&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2013-10-21T21:29:19.960" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T21:29:19.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10746" CreationDate="2013-10-15T22:32:06.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;65% is not bad. Most recipes only expect 70%, so you're not going to be that far off to begin with if you are getting 65%. I wouldn't do partial mash unless you want to. Use Beer Smith or BrewTarget and just adjust your recipe for your efficiency. Read up on how to calculate efficiency first. Understanding your volumes and gravities at each step will help you improve. If you really want to adjust your gravity, 1 lb of DME will add 9 gravity points to a 5 gallon batch. I would just use pale DME; it's not going to affect it much, but if you use amber or dark it may. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &#xA;I should add.. the simple technique of adding grains to water (instead of water to grains) will make it easier to avoid clumps and dry spots. Stir the crap out of your sparge as well as your mash, and vorlauf both the mash and the sparge. Those techniques added about 2-3% each to my efficiency, and I'm getting somewhere around 75-80 pretty consistently with a very rudimentary batch sparge setup. I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtarget.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewtarget&lt;/a&gt; and pretty consistent with volumes and efficiency, with the caveat; lower water to grain ratios and higher gravity beers reduce efficiency and vice versa. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, lower water to grain ratio will hurt your efficiency, but may be required for style (mouthfeel and maltiness), so better to anticipate a bit lower efficiency in that case and adjust accordingly, rather than sacrifice style for efficiency. Higher ratios, like 1.5 will improve efficiency, but will make for thinner beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T23:26:56.660" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T23:26:56.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10663" CreationDate="2013-10-15T22:47:37.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question on a topic that I don't think is discussed much by homebrewers since we tend to stick to ales. This is a more significant issue for creating clean lagers..or at least a more obvious problem in lagers when present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greg Noonan's New Brewing Lager Beers is about the only place I've found a solid discussion of the topic. On pp 170-171:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;&quot;Proteinaceous precipitate from the hot and cold breaks forms the greatest part of the trub. Although amino acids are absolutely necessary for yeast metabolic functions, yeast react to an excess of simple protein by generating  aromatic fusel alcohols...Fusel alcohols are subject to esterization, which produces fruity and solventlike odors that are inappropriate in a lager beer, and to oxidation, forming &quot;stale&quot;-tasting aldehydes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trub also contains polyphenols, ketones, and sulfur compounds that may be absorbed into the ferment. Polyphenols give astringent-tasting, mouth-puckering flavors. Volatile sulfur compounds (H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;S, DMS, thiois, and mercaptans) produce rotten-egg, skunky, onionlike, rubbery, and burnt-match flavors and odors.&quot;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, that's quite a list of bad stuff you don't want in your beer and just because a hoppy, fruity ale might be better at covering it up doesn't mean it isn't still there! Doing what you can to minimize break material (hot &amp;amp; cold) making it into the fermentor seems worth-while in all cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3902" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T22:47:37.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10746" CreationDate="2013-10-16T02:13:11.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry too much about increasing your efficiency. The important thing is is have an accurate measure of it. Your first mash showed an efficiency of 65%, so go with that until you've done more brews and narrowed it down. I don't know much about all grain kits, but they must make some assumption about efficiency and include the corresponding amount of grain. What you need to do is add enough base grain (pale, pilsner, or 2-row, depending on the style) to bring the gravity up to the target. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing software can really help with this. You enter the amount of each grain and your measured efficiency, and the software will estimate he starting gravity. If the estimate is low, add base malt until it reaches the target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-10-16T14:37:13.443" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T14:37:13.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10758" CreationDate="2013-10-16T14:09:35.137" Score="0" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just ordered a gluten free kit to brew for a friend of mine who has celiac disease. I have a glass carboy, but another home brewer recommended I start with completely new equipment. Is that necessary? I don't mind getting hoses and things like that, but should I buy a new carboy and new bottles as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3878" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T17:06:00.940" Title="Trying a gluten free kit; must I buy new equipment to be safe?" Tags="|cleaning|gluten-free|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-16T14:56:32.757" Score="9" ViewCount="18179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a two-tap kegerator which I use to dispense commercial 5-gallon kegs.  My lines are about 3 feet long&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and I keep my pressure at 10psi and my temperature relatively cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I draw from the tap, I get beer immediately.  It looks like a great pour.  But always, about half a second after opening the valve, the beer coming out turns foamy for about a second and then returns to normal.  This produces enough head that my glass always ends up being half foam.  If I have a pitcher that I'm filling, or if I have two glasses and I can run the pour from one to the other, the rest of the pour will be excellent with no foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this happen?  I have always had this problem with my setup.  I used to keep my pressure at 15psi and dropped it to 10psi (and I like it - I think I'll end up on 11-12psi).  But that hasn't helped this problem at all.  I also tried lowering the temperature on the kegerator.  This also hasn't helped.  These are things that I feel are just general tips to try to reduce foam.  But I feel like there's something specifically wrong with my setup where air is getting in the line somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem happens on both taps.  This problem happens no matter what keg I hook up.  I have used Kegcraft kegs from Half Acre Chicago, as well as commercial kegs from various craft brewers available in Chicago.  They all have the problem.  This problem has persisted across CO2 tanks as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Perlick 525SS tap handles.  Am I missing an O-ring somewhere?  How can I test this?  I'm sick of having this problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;  I estimated three feet when I wrote the question.  The line is perhaps actually four, maybe four and a half feet.  They came as part of a kit, and I did not cut them.  I don't know exactly how long they are, but they are sufficient length to change kegs, clean, and otherwise maintain the set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="918" LastEditorUserId="918" LastEditDate="2013-11-07T04:28:26.890" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T00:23:34.840" Title="Why am I getting foam in my keg line when dispensing?" Tags="|keg|kegerator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10755" CreationDate="2013-10-16T16:00:01.973" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of a couple reasons.  One is that the beer is over carbonated...maybe not literally, but it indicates your system may be out of balance.  The other reason would be if you had a long line from the keg to the tap.  The line is warmer and the CO2 comes out of solution in the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T16:00:01.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10754" CreationDate="2013-10-16T16:01:16.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't think of any reason your current equipment wouldn't be suitable.  It shouldn't contain any gluten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T16:01:16.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10754" CreationDate="2013-10-16T17:06:00.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://celiac.org/live-gluten-free/gluten-free-diet/sources-of-gluten/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt; from the Celiac Disease Foundation may be helpful; scroll down to Cross Contamination.  I doubt you will have any issues with metal or glass vessels or tools (especially if they are properly cleaned), but porous items &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be suspect?  It sounds like the note about airborne wheat flour may be the biggest issue (depending on if you are doing another brew the same day and how finely you mill your grain.)  Please note that I am not a doctor, nor do I play one on TV.  ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that you should ask your friend what their food preparation is like at home, or how careful they must be out in a restaurant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T17:06:00.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4248" CreationDate="2013-10-16T22:02:34.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally rinse the yeast, separating it from the trub / hop bits before storing it. I've stored it for quite awhile in the fridge and never had a problem. I believe that it was the brewing network that mentioned this is a good practice for some yeasts, such as Oktoberfest. I've even rinsed the next generation and reused it. After about 4 times I stop though, just in case there's any mutations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules I've always followed for rinsing are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I rack to secondary, and take the yeast from the primary. I don't want the late floculating yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I always go from lighter to dark beers, never the other way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I never re-use the yeasts from high gravity beers, they are already stressed enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for pitching on a yeast cake, I've found this helpful for high gravity beers. I'll brew a nice blonde or bitter, and then pitch a stout onto the yeast cake. High gravity beers are hard on the yeast, and they can putter out during fermentation. The yeast cake helps to ensure there's enough yeast to finish the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3889" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T22:02:34.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10755" CreationDate="2013-10-16T23:06:59.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would increase the length of your lines. Three feet is pretty short. Using the links provided by Denny Conn should give you a better idea of what you will need to increase resistance and prevent foaming. Keep in mind that the diameter of the line also plays a big roll in resistance, not just length. The same goes for the difference in height from where the beer leaves the keg and where it is dispensed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2711" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T23:06:59.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10762" CreationDate="2013-10-16T23:48:18.650" Score="2" ViewCount="933" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed a nice RyePA last weekend and I just opened the fermentation chamber to find the airlock not bubbling. A quick peek at the wort confirmed a nice krausen in place. I pulled the airlock and noticed the grommet wasn't seated completely and in my effort to fix it, it fell in the beer.&#xA;So what to do now?  It feels as though I should leave the grommet and take my chances given it was sanitized a few days ago. Second question - I don't have another grommet on hand so at the moment the airlock is seated tight against the lid. Thoughts on how to handle that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T23:43:52.100" Title="Lost my grommet in the fermenter - what to do?" Tags="|fermentation|airlock|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10761" CreationDate="2013-10-17T00:43:16.493" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only issue with the grommet falling in is possible contamination depending on if there were any organisms on it (probably) and how strong your ferment is - sounds like you're at low or high krausen so you should be ok. The larger your yeast population and stronger it is, the greater chance they'll outcompete anything that gets in there at this stage. You won't pick up any off flavors from the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The airlock is just a convenience to give you a visual indication about the rate of the ferment. I.e. it's not necessary. You can just sanitize some foil and cover the hole or use a bit of paper towel. The important thing is to keep the hole covered so nothing floats/crawls/flies in but not sealed so that CO2 can still escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3902" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T00:43:16.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10761" CreationDate="2013-10-17T00:56:24.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The grommet is already in the fermenter now so I wouldn't worry about trying to get it out. That will increase the risk of infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cleaned and sterilized it only a few days ago it should be fine unless you were touching it with dirty hands or a bug landed on the grommet or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The airlock is meant to be a one way valve that lets the co2 escape so if you have managed to get the airlock tight against the lid the seal should be fine. You can try to use some vasoline to make sure it is really airtight if you want but probably not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A grommet doesn't cost much so you could probably pick up a spare one and put that on if you really want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T00:56:24.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2503" CreationDate="2013-10-17T13:23:14.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sandor Katz, author of several books on fermentation (mostly food items) has info on his website &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wildfermentation.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wildfermentation.com/&lt;/a&gt;, just search for &quot;mead&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His book &quot;The art of Fermentation&quot; also covers a selection of alcoholic drinks. The book is quite a good resource, keeping an eye on the bigger picture of fermentation, which may help you with equipment and fault finding/background knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T13:23:14.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10785" CreationDate="2013-10-17T14:01:51.880" Score="5" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make some Sahti however the recipes always say to use juniper branches.  I cruised to the local garden center and noticed there are about a zillion and one different species/varieties of Junipers for sale.  Should I look for a specific variety, or will any Juniper bush provide good Sahti?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:54:52.113" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:54:52.113" Title="Does the species of Juniper matter to Sahti?" Tags="|sahti|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10700" CreationDate="2013-10-17T19:24:34.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I started makeing wine, I found this site &lt;a href=&quot;http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/index.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;JackKeller&lt;/a&gt; which has tons of information and recipes on there. I have used this for years as my guide for HomeBrewing. Navigating the site SUCKs, but what do you expect from a guy that makes wine, not web sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3926" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T19:24:34.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2013-10-17T19:43:49.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After trying everything I found on the internet and having terrible results, I found the thing that works the best, by far, is the scrape it off while &lt;strong&gt;dry&lt;/strong&gt; with a sharp knife. Scrape until just about everything is gone.  Then wet it a little and use one of those green scrub pads (or anything that wont scratch glass) to get the last little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warning, sharp knives are ... sharp, and therefore dangerous&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I did learn is that some chemical solvants can actually embed in the glass and cause your wine to go bad forever more.  For example, an old trick used to be to put a coke in a can of gasoline overnight. The next day it would look fine, it would still have carbination, but it tasted terrible!  And yes, this is a glass coke bottle, so why wouldn't it affect your wine/beer.  Not to mention, when soaking, those chemicals are usually going into the inside of the bottle. Not good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3926" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T19:43:49.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2013-10-17T20:34:06.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Getting the Labels Off&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm only adding a little bit here. I only use OxyClean, like many others, but what I do is put the bottles standing up in a cooler, then fill them with hot tap water. Dump a bit of oxyclean in the cooler, and fill it with hot water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It holds the temp for quite a long while, after a couple of hours the labels are floating off, or they come off with just a slight pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes there's a bit of label residue that hangs around on some bottles, that comes off with a quick scrub sponge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Putting Labels on&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I did label my bottles, I used standard printer paper, cut it up with scissors, and then used some milk on a paint brush, just on the edges of the label, to get it to stick. You have to hold it there for about 3 seconds and then set it to the side to dry. Those labels come off extremely easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I do now&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days I've become lazy, I just use the little Avery round labels and place them on the bottle caps after bottling. Much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3889" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T20:34:06.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10771" CreationDate="2013-10-18T03:01:19.003" Score="6" ViewCount="1770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the middle of brewing a Phat Tyre Amber Ale from Northern Brewer. After boiling the water and steeping the grain, I took the pot off and added the liquid 6lbs Munich malt syrup and the dry 1lb Pilsen malt extract, as I am typically instructed to add the malt sugars at the beginning of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only after this point when I needed to check the hop schedule did I bother to read the instructions, where I learned that I was supposed to add the 6lbs liquid Munich malt syrup 15 minutes towards the end of the boil, as opposed to the start of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the purpose of this instruction -- to add malt sugars towards the end of the boil as opposed to the beginning?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T23:04:39.120" Title="What is the Purpose of Adding Malt Sugars Towards the End of the Boiling of the Wort, as Opposed to the Beginning?" Tags="|boil|wort|malt|timing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10731" CreationDate="2013-10-18T13:14:44.737" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't ferment straight tea, because the yeast won't have anything to eat.  You need to add some kind of fermentable (sugar, honey, etc) and some yeast.  You're probably better off taking a recipe for something that's already fermentable (beer, wine, mead) and adding your tea to it for flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T13:14:44.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10769" CreationDate="2013-10-18T14:04:46.167" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This technique of holding back the extract until the end of the boil is a fairly new concept that's caught on in the last few years. Here's some reasons why its a good idea in general:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faster time from the start of the boil to the 1st hop&#xA;addition &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less chance of a boil over &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less caramalization/Mailiard&#xA;reactions of the extract (leading to lighter colored beer). This is probably the biggest benefit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer Scott's concerns in his comment above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Hop Utilization for this recipe was formulated with &lt;strong&gt;LATE MALT&#xA;ADDITIONS IN MIND&lt;/strong&gt;, so there's no problem there. Northern Brewer&#xA;certainly knows how to account for the change in utilization. You might actually end up a few IBU's off the recipe target, since you didn't follow it precisely (but I wouldn't worry about it, human's mostly can't detect anything less than a 5 IBU difference anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hot Break isn't a problem because malt extract has already been&#xA;&quot;hot-broken&quot; when it was condensed into syrup. This is also the&#xA;reason why DMS is less of a concern for extract brewers, because the&#xA;process of turning wort into extract at the factory boils off most&#xA;DMS precursors and of course also creates a hot break. The hot break&#xA;proteins might still be &lt;strong&gt;IN&lt;/strong&gt; the extract, but since you can't&#xA;unscramble an egg, they do not require re-breaking, and will fall&#xA;out just fine in the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T14:04:46.167" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10776" CreationDate="2013-10-18T22:12:20.023" Score="5" ViewCount="1119" Body="&lt;p&gt;In brewing a cider, do I need to be as concerned with exposure to light as I do with beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3419" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T02:13:23.367" Title="Does cider need to be kept out of light?" Tags="|cider|light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10773" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-18T22:50:41.920" Score="0" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the first time that I have brewed Mangrove Jack's Belgian Ale and it has been in the fermenter for the past 9 days and has a stable SG reading. Is it advisable to use finings on this brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T01:50:12.357" Title="Is it a good idea to use finings on Belgian Ale?" Tags="|beer|finings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2011" CreationDate="2013-10-18T23:45:35.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used the Pig for almostcask ale. It's okay. It goes flat within about 2 days, so I wouldn't let it sit around for much more than 48 hours. The restrictor plate could probably come out, and since there's no way to compress the container you probably need to keep the hand pump around to introduce a little pressure into the pig so the liquid can flow out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I did quite enjoy the beer and would do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a more novel solution, read about using polypin containers. These are very popular in the UK, which is famous for it's plastic storage vessels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3932" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T23:45:35.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10773" CreationDate="2013-10-19T01:50:12.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If necessary, yes. However you are not at the point where I would even consider finings. It is by no means necessary to use them unless you are unhappy with some aspect of the clarity of the beer. You can achieve a good result by placing your beer in a cold spot for a week or two to allow the proteins, tannis, and yeast to fall out on their own thus avoiding the need for other fining agents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3932" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T01:50:12.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10772" CreationDate="2013-10-19T02:13:23.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops react with light to create skunky flavors. So long as you didn't use hops in your cider (not unheard of), you don't need to be overly concerned about light. I still wouldn't recommend fermenting or storing it in direct sunlight if at all possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T02:13:23.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10731" CreationDate="2013-10-19T02:33:12.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a pretty decent hard iced tea made by a fellow homebrewer one time. Don't remember his exact recipe, but it consisted of fresh brewed organic black tea, a whole bunch of brown sugar and some yeast nutrient (and yeast, of course!). 1 lb of brown sugar per gallon of tea should yield a brew of about 4.5% ABV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a good &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Fermentable_adjuncts#Sugar_Adjuncts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;list of fermentables&lt;/a&gt; you could use with your tea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastEditorUserId="3914" LastEditDate="2020-03-09T13:56:53.543" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T13:56:53.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10781" CreationDate="2013-10-19T22:39:59.693" Score="1" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a container of sodium metabisulphite for sterilizing my fermenter and bottles that has gone hard. It is about 1 year old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I still use this effectively or should I use another container that is still soft that I bought last week?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T12:04:14.890" Title="Can you use sodium metabisulphite that is hard" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10780" CreationDate="2013-10-20T12:04:14.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's gone hard, it just means that it's picked up moisture from the air. If you can break off the required amount and it dissolves in water, then it will still be effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T12:04:14.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2013-10-20T16:53:29.090" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Likely late in the game now, but you can also put oak chips on a sanitized cooking sheet at 200F or so and leave in the oven for 15 minutes or so.  This will sanitize the chips, and subtly brings out some of the flavour, but not too much tannic or other astringent flavours. Essentially you are pasteurizing the oak chips by heating them to 138F (min), before adding them to your wort or must. I usually use the method for my homemade wine, but see no reason why it would not also work for homemade beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3938" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T16:53:29.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10765" CreationDate="2013-10-21T14:20:22.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each species of juniper has a slightly different flavor to them so the best way I can answer is to try making some juniper tea with a few species if you can and pick the one that tastes better to you. Crush/break up 15-20 needles a bit to release the oils and let it seep in boiling water for 3-5 mins before you drink it. The best flavored tea will produce the best flavored Sahti.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use what is easily available to me, but out of the 5 different types in my area, Juniperus communis and Juniperus monticola tend to work out best with my batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3944" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T14:20:22.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10765" CreationDate="2013-10-22T12:53:56.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should note that some of the Juniper varietes in the US are poisonous. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/20/garden/20qna.html?_r=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/20/garden/20qna.html?_r=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Finland we only have the Juniperus communis and Juniperus Alpina, so one of those is at least true to style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2637" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T12:53:56.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10824" CreationDate="2013-10-22T18:59:18.777" Score="1" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know my question is sort of answered in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2022/extract-late-with-a-full-boil&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt;, where @Dean-Brundage answers that adding extract late will incease hop utilizaiton, and in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7343/does-wort-gravity-affect-hop-utilization&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt;, where @mdma answers that John Palmer and Jamil Z. believe that hop utilization is a function of dissolved solids in the wort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: if I add all of my extract late (last 15 minutes), will steeping specialty grains provide enough dissolved solids to eliminate or substantially reduce any affect that late extract addition will have on hop utilization?  This is a very dark porter recipe, where just the speciality grains gave a very dark brown color, to give an idea of the amount of specialty grains involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed an extract kit whose recipe called for extract at the beginning of the boil.  However, I deviated by adding the extract in the last 15 minutes.  I am wondering if my beer is going to be much hoppier than planned by the recipe designer, and if so by how much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: substantially re-wrote my question to be more clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T10:09:50.840" Title="Will steeping specialty grains keep late extract addition from affecting hop utilization? To what degree?" Tags="|steeping|hop-utilization|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10228" CreationDate="2013-10-22T19:21:25.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution is probably one that already exists, like the jet bottle washers that attach to your laundry sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want an engineering solution, I have seen a design for a home-made keg/carboy washer using a pond pump and plastic bucket/lid that could be adapted for your use:&#xA; 1. Add an approximately 12-18&quot; length of PVC pipe to the outflow of the pond pump.  The PVC pipe should be thin enough to fit into the mouth of a     bottle.  This might require using a larger-size PVC pipe to fit to the pump, and then fitting the thinner PVC pipe into the larger one.&#xA; 2. Partially fill the plastic bucket with with PBW, Oxy, or other cleaning solution.&#xA; 3. Fit an upturned bottle over the pipe.&#xA; 4. Hold the lid down on the bucket to keep the bottle from shooting up. You will need to play with the length of the thinner PVC pipe so that the bottom of the upturned bottle touches or almost touches the lid of the bucket, or design some other sort of way to hold the bottle in place (maybe a jig of some sort).&#xA; 5. Turn on the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T19:21:25.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-23T00:30:51.707" Score="1" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to try experiment after reading a little about making cider. I used a 1/2 gallon of cider, made sure there were no preservatives. Warmed it in a pot with about a cup of brown sugar and a full pack of yeast (just cheap stuff I had left from Baking). Put it in a gallon jug and made an airlock with rubber tubing and a plastic cup of water. Everything is air tight and it has been bubbling for 3 days. I know it has a few weeks left. My question is &#xA;1. Will it be drinkable?&#xA;2. would this be considered Wine?&#xA;3. any red flags I should watch for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3956" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T17:04:54.783" Title="First time making cider, will it work well" Tags="|cider|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1333" CreationDate="2013-10-23T03:01:35.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A boilover is an even greater disaster in a small space situation.  A few glass marbles dropped into the brew pot prevents most boilovers.  Don't worry, the marbles can take a lot more heat that your stove can put out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T03:01:35.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2013-10-23T03:05:51.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of apartment refrigerators can't make massive quantities of ice, and buying ice for an ice bath can get expensive.  Instead, freeze bottles of water before you brew, and use them in your ice bath. You can even sanitize a few bottles and throw them into your wort to boost the chilling power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T03:05:51.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10793" CreationDate="2013-10-23T07:26:21.210" Score="6" ViewCount="11896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this question has been asked a few times, however, I'm curious as to where I specifically went wrong with my batch. I can't seem to pin point it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed a batch of IPA that tasted amazing 2 weeks after bottling. Three weeks after bottling I started to taste something slightly off. However, I had another bottle (~4 weeks after initial bottling) and it was way to over carbonated and tasted like soda water. I've found one bottle bomb in the closet and have since put all remaining bottles in the fridge. I'll wait from them to chill ~24 hours crimp and recap them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible reasons I've found:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To much priming sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Didn't hit terminal gravity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contamination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The homebrew notes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 Gallon Batch of IPA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG 1.046&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FG 1.014&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottled 10 days after brew date&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I didn't properly determine terminal gravity. Though original recipe shows FG of 1.017 so I'm not that far off. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used 3/4 cup corn sugar (~3oz weight)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast: California Ale Yeast WLP001&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rough High/Low Temp during fermentation: 75F-83F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: This might actually be considered more of a extract than partial mash.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Recipe - Partial Mash:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Munich Grains 1lbs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crystal Grains 2lbs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pale LME 6lbs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warrior Hops 2oz (60 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Liberty Hops 1oz (10 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simcoe Hops 1oz (5 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amarillo Hops 1oz (1 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;California Ale Yeast WLP001&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cascade Hops 1oz Dry Hop (6 days)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I could think of is after I drink a beer I wash out the bottle with water and then put it in the dishwasher. On bottling day I then rinse out the bottles again with water and sanitize. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where did I go wrong that would turn a beer from an amazing homebrew 2 weeks after bottling to an over carbonated soda water 4 weeks after bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Picture when it tasted delicious ~2 weeks after bottling. Biggest head I've had on a homebrew.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bxWJI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bxWJI.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3958" LastEditorUserId="3958" LastEditDate="2013-10-24T23:46:32.640" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T03:30:09.530" Title="Over carbonated what went wrong? Detailed" Tags="|bottling|bottle-conditioning|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10792" CreationDate="2013-10-23T09:29:41.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all your bottles are overcarbonated my guess would be that you didn't hit your terminal gravity and bottled too soon.&#xA;I don't know yoour recipe but an FG of 1.014 seems a bit high to me with an 1.048 OG using wlp001.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If some bottles are undercarbonated you probably didn't mix your priming sugar properly into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infected bottles usually have a white ring in the neck of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2637" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T09:29:41.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10792" CreationDate="2013-10-23T14:29:25.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the time factor, and that it has lost it's body, I would bet on contamination here. While a white ring in the bottle is a typical indicator for contamination, it isn't a necessary factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to try is to degass some of the beer by stirring/sloshing in a large container and then take a gravity reading. My guess is that it's below 1.007, indicating a secondary fermentation from contaminants introduced during bottling. Most extract brews won't normally ferment anywhere near that low with brewer's yeast - so the low FG would be due to other organisms in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T14:29:25.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10796" CreationDate="2013-10-23T15:06:28.930" Score="1" ViewCount="1636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently fermening my first batch of apple wine, with the plan to make sparkling cider. My idea is to make sure that the first fermentation has stopped, rack the cider, put it into bottles and add a small amount of sugar to creat the CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my question is: What bottles can I use? How can I close them (so they withstand the pressure)? What's the pressure I can allow?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I think I can calculate the amount of sugar from headspace and cider volume, when I know the correct partial pressure of CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have beer and wine bottles available, and could maybe score champagne bottles. I don't have tools to put stoppers on them and would appreciate hints on how to do it without buying much equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3959" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T23:53:52.790" Title="What vessels to use to carbonate hard cider?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|cider|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10795" CreationDate="2013-10-23T15:38:09.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use either beer or champagne bottles.  Wine bottles are not designed to withstand the pressure and coupe explode.  Beer bottles will be easier to cap.  If you use the champagne bottles, you'll need to either buy or rent a corker.  Corking is more hassle than capping, so unless you prefer the champagne bottles for presentation, I'd go the easy route.  I've found that using 1 oz. of sugar per gallon of cider produces a good carbonation level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T15:38:09.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10789" CreationDate="2013-10-23T15:41:27.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Likely..you'll just have to wait and see&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I suppose it could be&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibly infection....did you sanitize everything that touched it?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T15:41:27.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2013-10-23T18:29:26.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No Chill! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Australian Homebrewers like to conserve water and have developed a no chill method of chilling. This means you transfer your hot wort after flameout (and whirlpool if you do that, and I would recommend you do) into a sanitized heat tolerant plastic cube. You force all air out and seal it. It will cool overnight or in a couple of days. The Aussies have written extensively about this method: &lt;a href=&quot;http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/23742-ahb-wiki-the-no-chiller-method-using-a-cube/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/23742-ahb-wiki-the-no-chiller-method-using-a-cube/&lt;/a&gt; and you can also look for Basic Brewing Radio episodes on it, and maybe Beer Smith did an episode as well. The Aussies will even store the wort for a period of time before fermenting, like weeks or months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried it only once and the beer was fine. My sister does it, but I find her IPAs to be extra bitter, maybe because of her no chill method, which does not include the whirlpool and careful siphon of the wort only into the no chill cube. So the hops are in the wort for a long overnight slow chill. Her California Common comes out great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought my cube from US Plastics. I made one beer with it and it came out fine. I still use a plate chiller and an immersion chiller for smaller batches. I should use the cube more but I already had a pretty good setup for chilling when I discovered the cube technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2119" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T18:29:26.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1331" CreationDate="2013-10-23T18:37:39.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an old thread, but I cannot believe no one answered to use the Brew in a Bag method which means you mash in your boil kettle. No extra vessel needed. You line your boil kettle with a mesh bag and when the mash is complete you remove the bag and all the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how I brew every time now, and I don't have to store the mash tun any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2119" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T18:37:39.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10662" CreationDate="2013-10-23T18:45:09.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have picked the wrong yeast. I read somewhere I think it was from Wyeast, that all yeasts produce Diacetyl, but some yeasts are better than others at cleaning it up. So whenever Wyeast recommends a 'Diacetyl rest' for a strain, you should not use it to clean up Diacetyl. Instead I would pick a non English yeast that does not require a D-rest, which means it cleans up nicely. So yes, pitch the new yeast at high Krausen. I've never seen Diacetyl leave just by aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2119" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T18:45:09.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10769" CreationDate="2013-10-23T23:04:39.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late addition also compliments partial boil. For an extract brewer, using less water and delaying additions of extract make it possible to brew on just about any stove top. A full boil with all the extract up front versus a partial boil with extract held back will have similar utilization, because the gravity and composition is made similar by the techniques. I don't know about beer smith but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtarget.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewtarget&lt;/a&gt; has a check box for 'late addition' which doesn't affect SRM (in the software) but does increase hop utilization. This way you can take a recipe that anticipates a full boil and make it a partial boil and use late extract additions to see if you need to adjust hops for the anticipated IBU. To state the obvious; doing a partial boil without doing late additions drastically reduces your hop utilization. Also, late addition is a technique best used with LME. DME will ball up and be difficult to dissolve in solution at high temps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T23:04:39.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10761" CreationDate="2013-10-23T23:43:52.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The grommets also break down over time, increasing the chances for this (including falling in several small pieces, risking the worst possible outcome - it ending up in your keg or bottle!) I since switched to #2 drilled stoppers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T23:43:52.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10746" CreationDate="2013-10-24T16:16:05.663" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;99% of the time, efficiency is tied to the quality of the crush.  Unless you crush the grain yourself, you have no control over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T16:16:05.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10792" CreationDate="2013-10-26T15:35:08.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hehe, yeah, 10 days very unlikely to be enough time for fermentation to complete and is less than the &quot;old school&quot; method of 7 days primary, 7 days secondary, 2 weeks bottling. I once (notice the &quot;once&quot;) bottled after 9 days because I was leaving on a trip and wanted the beer to be done when I returned. Although the gravity was close to where I thought it should be, evidently I got better attenuation than expected and several bottles had exploded by the time I returned. It was a grand mess and I was only able to drink about 1/3 of each bottle that didn't break because of the beer-splosion that happened when opened. I think you really need at least 20 days or so with most beers to be sure fermentation is complete before bottling. In the end, you must at least have 3 days of consecutive readings that don't change near where you anticipate it to finish. If it is much higher than where you anticipate it finishing, you may need to pitch more yeast. Better luck next time and for the sake of good beer, give it a bit more time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-10-26T15:35:08.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10810" CreationDate="2013-10-26T20:10:44.243" Score="1" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I have brewed a big batch of kombucha. Normally, the original gravity is 1.020.  But this time, I created a 1.016 batch.  After nine days, the gravity went to 1.014 and the pH to 3.4.  The kombucha organisms which produce acetic acid, the collagen? scoby, and carbonation leave a lot of residual sugar.  So, as an experiment, I am adding brett to eat that sugar.  I moved it into secondary fermentation and added Brett Trois.  When that is done, I will then bottle it.  I used a bottling calculator as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amount Being Packaged:  3 g / 11.3562 l&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volumes of CO2:         3.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature of Beer:    75F / 23.8889C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CO2 in Beer:            0.78 volumes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Priming Table Sugar:    3.6 oz / 100.9 g&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using sucrose for the bottling sugar, I want to add 32 ounces of Just Tart Cherry juice.  With a total of four servings which lists 24 grams of sugars per serving.  That should total 96 grams.  Will the cherry juice successfully bottle condition this batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T11:17:44.477" Title="Using juice as bottling sugar" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10811" CreationDate="2013-10-26T20:31:22.160" Score="7" ViewCount="1793" Body="&lt;p&gt;This picture contains two extract batches made on two successive days approximately two weeks ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nu1Cu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is a Honey Weizen (OG=1.048; Wyeast 1010 American Wheat Yeast), and the other is a Phat Tyre (OG=1.052; Wyeast 1762 Belgian Abbey I), both from Northern Brewer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions for both of these say to do 1-2 weeks in primary and 2-4 weeks in secondary. What I have usually done when I see this instruction is to leave it in primary for 4 weeks and then bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10678/why-do-some-extract-recipies-call-for-two-weeks-and-others-for-four-weeks&quot;&gt;I was hoping to get away with doing two week primaries before bottling.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Honey Weizen still has a krausen. The Phat Tyre's krausen has dissipated. (To be honest it could possibly be the other way around, I forgot to put a post-it on each container ... I will know with certainty which batch is which when I disconnect the temperature probes (those black cords you see in the picture) from my Raspberry Pi, as per &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10124/networked-connected-thermometer-for-measuring-water-in-swamp-cooler&quot;&gt;my temperature monitoring&lt;/a&gt;, and I'll edit this if I was wrong)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A) What is the reason for dissipation or non-dissipation of krausen? I'm assuming it has to do with the yeast.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B) Does it matter if I bottle when the krausen has not dissipated?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T11:41:58.260" Title="What is Responsible for the Dissipation of Krausen, and may a Batch be Bottled if its Krausen has Not been Dissipated?" Tags="|krausen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10812" CreationDate="2013-10-26T22:24:25.100" Score="2" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am facing my first winter of brewing with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9788/would-placing-the-fermenter-tank-in-a-tub-of-water-be-a-good-way-to-handle-hot-e&quot;&gt;swamp cooler&lt;/a&gt;. I need to acquire a few aquarium heaters (incidentally, please let me know if you know a good brand) and drop them in my swamp cooler to maintain temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now almost everything I read online states that I also need to acquire a water pump to place underneath the water heater in order to &quot;distribute the hot water into the colder parts of the water&quot; ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why am I to believe that this is necessary? What force of nature could possibly prevent warm water from being evenly and automatically distributed over 5-7 gallons of water in a swamp cooler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general internet consensus is that only a few inches of water around the water heater will remain warm, that the warmth somehow stays in the same spot, that it doesn't distribute itself as physics as I understand it would require it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is the pump required -- what is the scientific explanation for how it is possible that warmth wouldn't flow from a hotter area to a colder area without the assistance from a pump, contrary to my understanding?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T11:58:49.650" Title="Why Does a Heater in a Swamp Cooler Require a Pump to Distribute the Heated Liquid?" Tags="|temperature|temperature-control|swamp-cooler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2883" CreationDate="2013-10-27T00:35:06.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/kolsch-altbier/item/1362-shelf-life-storing-your-ingredients&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/kolsch-altbier/item/1362-shelf-life-storing-your-ingredients&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site has good advice for storing your brewing supplies..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T00:35:06.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10805" CreationDate="2013-10-27T07:10:32.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The juice is (one of) the key factors - Is it pure juice?  No preservatives?  No artificial sweeteners?  Nothing but cherry juice, right?  So long as that is the case then you're good on that front -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'd cut back a little if I were you as brett will eat more than regular yeast - from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2012/08/bottle-conditioning-with-brett-belgian.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Mad Fermantationist&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The two common species of Brettanomyces used in brewing (anomalous/claussenii and bruxellensis/lambicus) both produce an enzyme that allows them to ferment carbohydrates (dextrins) up to nine glucose molecules long (brewer's yeast can only ferment chains up to three glucose molecules long - maltotriose). With too much residual gravity remaining the Brett will over-carbonated the beer given time, which can result in gushing or even bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and 'regular yeast' is likely what that bottle sugar calculator is calculating based on.  But first question is the biggest - make sure you have 100% nothing-but-cherry juice.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T07:10:32.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10806" CreationDate="2013-10-27T11:34:02.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kraeusen, airlock activity and other signs of active/inactive fermentation are not reliable indicators of when to bottle. You should bottle only based on gravity readings - that the gravity is unchanged for 3 days and is at or close to the expected final gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A persistent kraeusen is quite common for wheat beers, and so not surprising your Honey Weizen still has a kraeusen. The main difference is the higher percentage of proteins that help maintain both a good head in the finished beer and also in the kraeusen. Also, low flocculating yeasts can hang around longer - and wheat beer yeasts including WY1010 are low flocculators which also contributes to the persistent kraeusen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-10-27T11:41:58.260" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T11:41:58.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10807" CreationDate="2013-10-27T11:58:49.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The aquarium heaters are not heating all of the water, but only the water around each heater. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will form convection currents around each heater - the heated water only moves upwards, and rises up to the surface, at the same time water at the surface cools and sinks. The convection currents are probably only a few inches around each heater, depending upon the power of the heater. Water that is not in the convection is essentially unheated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means water between the heaters does not heat up much, and the water below the heaters will not heat up much either - the heated water does not move downwards or sideways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When left alone, you'll get stratification in the water - low temp water at the bottom, and higher temp water at the top. By using a pump, you ensure the water is mixed, and that the heat is more evenly distributed throughout the body of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T11:58:49.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-27T17:18:35.773" Score="2" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mash in temperature was supposed to be 152 degrees. I forgot to adjust for temperature loss add simply mixed my grains with 152 degree water. I never calculated the final temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did the same thing with the batch sparge (poured in 175 degree water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How will the affect my final product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3968" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T17:58:12.683" Title="I forgot to calculate for temperature loss during mash in? How will this affect my beer?" Tags="|mash|all-grain|batch-sparge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10813" CreationDate="2013-10-27T17:58:12.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The beer will probably be drier, since I imagine your final mash temperature was in the range of 140-145&amp;deg;F - lower mash temps produce drier beer since there is a greater portion of fermentables. You may also lose body, since the temperature is not optimal for alpha amylase, which produces body enhancing dextrins, and is also close to the protein rest, so proteins may also have been broken down in the mash, causing a thinner body and reduced head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lower temperature for batch sparging doesn't really make much difference. In theory, lauter efficiency is slightly higher, but I doubt you'd notice difference in practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In future, if you do undershoot your target mash temperature, just stir in some boiling water until the temperature comes up to where you want it. Alternatively, you can decant 1/4 of the mash, bring it to the boil, and then return it to the mash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T17:58:12.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10819" CreationDate="2013-10-27T18:38:14.123" Score="1" ViewCount="2031" Body="&lt;p&gt;3 weeks ago, I set up a batch of apple to make hard cider. I chopped the apples in a kitchen machine and added yeast. The yeast I put into a smaller batch of the mashed apples before, after ading some sugar there was vissible fermentation (bubbles). For most of the three weeks, I guess the fermentation went ok - there were always visible bubbles in the water lock. For a few days to one week, there's hardly any bubbles forming, so I figured the fermentation is done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I tried racking the cider today, it was too thick and I could only get a small amount through the racking tube. It is more liquid when I set it up, but still very thick.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The little bit I got through the tube, I filtered with a tea filter. The liquid is turbid, tastes slightly yeasty, sour and is definitly alcoholic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe an overreaction, but to kickstart the fermentation again I added a bit of sugar (maybe 2 tablespoons to 5kg apples) and shook the vessel to mix the stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My father uses the same apples, he usually gets a clear liquid over a sediment of apples and yeast. He uses high performance yeast and adds lots of sugar to make booze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vessel ist standing in my kitchen with some temperature swings between day and night. The yeast I'm using is adopted to lower temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what has happended and what can I do?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm thinking of filtrating the cider through a cloth, would this be a way to go?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What experiences have others made when femrenting from a puree?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit to add:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;My father, from whom I got the idea brew from puree, uses to add enzmes (Pektinase). Aparantly that's the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3959" LastEditorUserId="3959" LastEditDate="2013-12-06T13:22:59.010" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T13:22:59.010" Title="My &quot;Cider&quot; has the consistency of puree - what to do?" Tags="|fermentation|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-27T18:40:13.727" Score="0" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bitter tasting cider (think German beer) on my hands right now, and I really don't like the bitterness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started with an OG of 1.060, and my yeast was Safale 05.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would aging help with getting rid of the bitter taste? how can I avoid this in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3748" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T19:08:47.660" Title="Bitter tasting cider with Safale- 05" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10816" CreationDate="2013-10-27T19:08:47.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aging may very well help.  The best ciders I've made hit their peak after a year or so.  But the &quot;bitter&quot; description surprises me.  I've never made a cider that I would call bitter.  Could it be sour?  Astringent?  Extremely dry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T19:08:47.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10820" CreationDate="2013-10-28T00:48:05.203" Score="3" ViewCount="1158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a Kolsh ale, and, I made the mistake of following the recipe that the brew shop provided. It said that I should rack the beer to a secondary fermenter after a week. When I opened the primary fermenter, it should have been clear that the primary fermentation wasn't done: the krausen was still foamy and hadn't settled into the beer, but I racked it anyway. I read later that I shouldn't have done that. The damage has been done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first question is: what negative effects I should expect from this in terms of taste, clarity, etc.? Secondly, is there anything I can do at this point to mitigate those effects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3448" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T02:53:39.383" Title="Racked too soon. How do I fix?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|racking|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10815" CreationDate="2013-10-28T01:11:52.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add some apple juice instead of sugar to restart fermentation, and it would &quot;dilute&quot; the stuff too. Then, filter the stuff, then you should get a decent hard cider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3748" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T01:11:52.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10818" CreationDate="2013-10-28T01:16:08.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a small risk that by removing the beer from the bulk of the yeast, your attenuation might be lower. That is, the beer might end up lower alcohol and sweeter than otherwise. However, as long as you pitched enough healthy yeast and the fermentation was vigorous, you're unlikely to see any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't do anything at this point. The beer should continue to ferment and you should be able to bottle on schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T01:16:08.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10818" CreationDate="2013-10-28T06:21:32.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you were fermenting very cold or had a high starting gravity, I imagine fermentation was actually done after 7 days and the beer moved on to conditioning. The way to know is to measure the SG - signs such as airlock activity and kraeusen falling are not accurate ways to monitor the brew - the SG is the key here, and that will tell you when fermentation is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T06:21:32.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10826" CreationDate="2013-10-28T09:58:37.673" Score="8" ViewCount="39291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tested 'brewing' a cider for the first time a few weeks ago. Since this process was so extremely different from what I am used to with brewing beers I completely forgot to take an OG reading. To be honest the amount of alcohol in the brew usually doesn't matter but since the first question from people always is &quot;How strong is it!?&quot; I thought it might be nice to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a pear cider where the pears are 'centrifuged', liquid is then heated, cooled and then topped off with english cider yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was to make a new smaller batch and test this, but don't have any more of the same types of pears (from own tree).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to calculate the ABV without having taken the OG reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastEditorUserId="3963" LastEditDate="2013-10-28T10:33:39.887" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T17:46:54.577" Title="How to calculate alcohol without OG reading?" Tags="|cider|original-gravity|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10787" CreationDate="2013-10-28T10:09:50.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, the hop utilization is affected by the specific gravity of the wort. E.g, the Daniels formula for calculating IBUs takes the boil gravity into account. My only source is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.se/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=4&amp;amp;ved=0CEUQFjAD&amp;amp;url=http://www.nthba.org/www/docs/Brew%2520Day%2520Presentation%2520-%2520Hop%2520Bittering.ppt&amp;amp;ei=J-x6UbGtN4mI4gSK84GgCg&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNH03nlWzfx6z1ZMThbFdQaaadc_kA&amp;amp;bvm=bv.45645796,d.bGE&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this ppt&lt;/a&gt; :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steeping grains does not substantially increase the gravity and should thus not affect hop utilization. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Daniels, brewing with a boil gravity greater than 1.050 causes the IBUs to decrease by the same amount as increasing the batch size 0.0005L per gravity point. Basically, it should not affect your hop profile that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3973" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T10:09:50.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10823" CreationDate="2013-10-28T12:33:13.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alcohol (ethanol) freezes at -114&amp;deg;F (-84&amp;deg;C) so you could freeze-distill the beer which will freeze the water, but not the alcohol, so you can separate out the alcohol and measure that. Although I believe you have to do this slowly for the alcohol to separate out, so I don't think it's workable in practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The freezing point of beer is related to the abv. There's a calculator &lt;a href=&quot;http://kotmf.com/tools/alcohol.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that computes abv from OG and FG and also shows the freezing point. Now, you don't know the OG, but you can measure the FG (degass cider by shaking and measure), and you can measure the freezing point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then enter the FG into the calculator, and guess different values of the OG until the freezing point matches what you measured for your beer. That will then give you an estimate for the OG and the abv.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not going to be very accurate, but better than a wild guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-10-28T12:49:07.800" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T12:49:07.800" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10823" CreationDate="2013-10-28T18:24:05.743" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The combination of hydrometer and refractometer readings can be used to estimate the ABV % of a finished fermentation. See the section titled Measurement of ABV in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/1313-refractometers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BYO article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T18:24:05.743" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10828" CreationDate="2013-10-28T18:54:36.220" Score="4" ViewCount="12714" Body="&lt;p&gt;So yesterday we brew our second beer. As expected, some errors occured during the process, which is alright, we're learning! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the main problem is that we were only able to keep the mash temperature at 60-62°C (140-143.5F). It lasted 60 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When taking OG, we were around 1.052 instead of around 1.062.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Is it what affected OG? (I guess yes!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- What are the other effects that might happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3895" LastEditorUserId="3895" LastEditDate="2013-10-28T19:03:29.007" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T21:04:34.873" Title="What happens when mash temperature is too low?" Tags="|beer|mash|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10827" CreationDate="2013-10-28T19:18:56.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are almost right; the mash gravity depends on the mash efficiency which in turn depends on the mash temperature and mash time. A higher mash temperature will result in longer sugars which are harder for the yeast to ferment. This leads to more full bodied beer. A lower mash temperature will give shorter sugars which are easy for the yeast to ferment, leaving a lighter body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of getting sugars from the grains to the wort is called starch conversion. The starch in malted barley is converted at around 60-70 degrees Celsius, as can bee seen from &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Starch_Conversion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this chart&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, that is probably it. Mashing at 60C is a bit low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your beer will have a lighter body.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a lower OG means less sugars in your beer giving the yeast less to feast on, the alcohol content will be lower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boiling with lower gravity increases your hop utilization, giving you more value for your hops! &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the OG-estimate that most brewing software calculates for you is based on your so called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mash efficiency&lt;/a&gt;. You have to find you own efficiency before these estimates get reliable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with future brews!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3973" LastEditorUserId="3973" LastEditDate="2013-10-28T21:04:34.873" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T21:04:34.873" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10832" CreationDate="2013-10-29T14:27:32.117" Score="4" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first cider is in the primary fermenter, it's been 2 days.  There was a nice healthy looking head of foam on top for the first two days, but when I checked it today it was gone, and there was some lacing left on the side of the jug.  I was concerned it had stopped fermenting. But upon closer inspection, it's bubbling like crazy, they're just wicked small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not attractive, but it doesnt look gross either.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2hzrX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no sign of blow off, the level is still the same and the sanitizer looks clear still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swirl it around a bit to try to reincorporate it into the liquid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do nothing and get over it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3978" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T09:48:56.433" Title="Should I do anything with lacing on my cider ferment?" Tags="|cider|primary-fermentation|foam|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3717" CreationDate="2013-10-29T14:41:56.013" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A heads up for future use :) &#xA;When doing natural carbonation, storages temperature is extremely important. That is, the amount of sugar needed to achieve adequate carbonation depend heavily on the temperature you plan to store your beer at.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're aiming for an average carbonation level of 2.4 vol co2 AND you plan to store your beer at room temp (i.e. 72F / 22C) you'll need:  0,22 oz/L  or 6,4 g/L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're aiming for the same carbonation-level but storing your beer at around 50F / 10C (which I often am) you'll need 0,17/L oz or 4,8 g/L.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3979" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T14:41:56.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10830" CreationDate="2013-10-29T15:04:45.137" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do nothing. That lacing is the residue of the foamy, yeasty head (krausen) clinging to the sides of the jug. There's no need to reincorporate it. Just let the cider finish fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T15:04:45.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10834" CreationDate="2013-10-29T17:09:12.183" Score="1" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying a simple recipe for ginger beer (Method 1 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Ginger-Ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). Would using &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ReaLemon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ReaLemon&lt;/a&gt; be ok instead of an actual lemon? I understand that preservatives in an apple juice can harm the yeast when making cider, but will this small amount (2-3 tablespoons) of lemon juice make a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3980" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T18:49:32.243" Title="ReaLemon's preservatives" Tags="|yeast|ginger-beer|substitution|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10833" CreationDate="2013-10-29T19:02:36.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using ReaLemon &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; negatively affect your ginger beer, but it is hard to tell the effect without knowing the concentration of free sulfite (SO2) in ReaLemon.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ReaLemon's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dpsgproductfacts.com/product/REALEMON_JUICE_BOTTLEBULK_1TSP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;label&lt;/a&gt; says it contains sulfite and the manufacturer says that any of their products that mention sulfites &quot;contains 10 ppm or more of sulfites&quot;.  After a short period of tolerance, &lt;em&gt;Saccharomyces cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt; (aka brewer's yeast aka baker's yeast) were irreversibly damaged by low concentrations of sulfite according to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/6992733&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;study&lt;/a&gt;.  Free SO2 is widely used in the winemaking industry to inhibit yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is difficult to tell the effect when we don't know the concentration of SO2.  Home winemakers &lt;a href=&quot;http://winemakermag.com/634-solving-the-sulfite-puzzle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shoot for 25 to 50 ppm of &quot;free SO2&quot;&lt;/a&gt; to inhibit unwanted fermentation.  To be safe, let's estimate that ReaLemon is on the high end of that range.  (In fact, in the EU, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thekitchn.com/sulfites-in-wine-necessary-or-100878&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;maximum level of sulfite is 160 ppm for red wine&lt;/a&gt;.) Your recipe calls for the juice of one lemon, which equals about three Tbsp. or 1.5 oz. of ReaLemon.  It looks like the recipe is for 24 oz.  of ginger beer, estimating from the botle size in the recipe picture.  So if you dissolve 1.5 oz. of ReaLemon containing 50 ppm of free SO2 into 24 oz., you end up at a concentration of 3.75 ppm of free sulfite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some commercially-made wines sent for lab analysis &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finevinewines.com/Sulfite_Management.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;contain as low as 5 ppm of free sulfite&lt;/a&gt;, which is apparently deemed enough for preservative effect, but not enough for long-term aging. At low levels of 5-10 ppm, SO2 delays the onset of fermentation, but later speeds up the multiplication of yeasts and their transformation of sugars [Peynaud, 1984]. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, we can't &lt;em&gt;definitively&lt;/em&gt; answer your question without knowing the sulfite concentration in ReaLemon.  Why not just use a real lemon since there is doubt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;  The recipe size is 2L, as @mdma points out, so assuming ReaLemon has 50 ppm of sulfite, then the final concentration in your recipe would be a very low 1 ppm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2013-10-30T18:49:32.243" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T18:49:32.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10843" CreationDate="2013-10-29T21:12:26.277" Score="2" ViewCount="7279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner homebrewer. I've brewed 3 beers, one from a Muntons and two from Brewferm brewkits. They were quite good, me and my friends liked them, but each one's taste reminded me a little bit of the taste of wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is that? Am I doing something wrong during brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used 2 Brewferm Gold and one Muntons Premium Bitter brewkits. I used the yeast which came with them. I added as much sugar as their manual said. The fermenter was a Brewferm plastic bucket put in a fridge with which temperature was controlled by a thermostat between 19 and 23°C. I fermented them for about 2 weeks, and they got the wine-like taste immediately before bottling them. The wine-like character is a bit sour, not strong. Definitely not sharp or vinegary. It tastes fine, like beer, but with a little wine-like character which doesn't fade much after 4 weeks in bottles at room temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3784" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2013-10-30T20:26:24.370" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T19:54:04.023" Title="Why does my beer taste a little like wine?" Tags="|wine|taste|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10925" CreationDate="2013-10-29T21:48:54.523" Score="3" ViewCount="3910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have homebrewed with family many times and never had problems, nor did I with my first batch on my own.  The last couple, however, have had a yeasty/cidery/apple odor.  Very strong.  I doubt it is contamination; I am very careful about that.  I must have introduced some systematic error in my brewing.  The beers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Strong Ale something like an Arrogant Bastard.  I can post a link to the recipe on brewersfriend.com  if needed.  It hit the FG exactly, but smelled extremely strong.  4 weeks in primary, well temp controlled.  68 for first two weeks, 70 for second two, and due to a loss of power (apartment flooded) high 70's for the last two weeks.  I decided to bottle the stuff and age it anyway.  In hindsight I probably should have left it on the yeast?  After aging 3 weeks, the smell is not as strong and the taste is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hazelnut Brown ale.  68 for first week, 70 for a few days, 72 for a few days.  All activity in blow-off stopped after 11 days, at 14 opened to see if ready for bottling, but it has a fair amount of yeast/apple/cider smell.  I threw the lid back on and have it aging in the mid 70's.  The FG is still a little high, but only be a few thousandths.  I assume this one is just not done?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other notes, I used starters for both and made sure to pitch a lot of yeast.  Wyeast 1056 for the first, and a mixture of White Labs English and European Ale yeast (WLP002 and WLP011 I think) for the latter.  The fermentation was extremely vigorous on the second day of each, to the point where I have to use a quick disconnect tube fitting to keep the blow-off tube on.  Blew tons of krausen and beer out the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I continue to age the two?  And what do you think is causing this so that I can avoid it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!  Sorry for the wall-o-text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  The smell has a slight cider smell to it, but it smells mostly like a fresh vial of liquid yeast.  But very, very strong in the AB clone.  Maybe a bit of apple.  My best idea is that I stressed the yeast and it did not finish the conversion of the acetylaldehyde into ethanol.  As far as sanitation, I have a second primary bucket, which I fill with water and iodine solution.  Usually I put in a bit more than is needed.  All utensils stay in that unless in use.  I apply the solution to the primary and the pot I use (I have to do extract for the next couple months until I move into a house).  I usually leave a bit on there.  I also have a squirt bottle I fill with the stuff to make sure things are sanitized.  Some items which are hard to get water into such as a bottling spicket, I will soak, then pout throught he dishwasher's sanitize cycle, then soak again.  I am  thinking from now on to use StarSan and sanitize all surfaces in my kitchen as well, including outside of all vessels.  I am brewing today and that is my plan so far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3981" LastEditorUserId="3981" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T23:20:17.390" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T23:27:02.853" Title="Yeast/Green Apple Taste" Tags="|off-flavor|aging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10836" CreationDate="2013-10-29T22:32:14.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Green apple aroma is typical of acetaldehyde. It could be the result of oxidation late in the fermentation or when bottling. Leaving it on the yeast helps, as it will reduce some or all of the acetaldehyde to ethanol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.picobrewery.com/askarchive/acetaldehyde.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pico Brewery&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/faults.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/630-fermentation--flavor-compounds-homebrew-science&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BYO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T22:32:14.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10833" CreationDate="2013-10-30T01:27:59.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recipe is 2 liters, with 1 lemon's worth of juice (15ml) diluted. With that much dilution, the sulphate content in ReaLemon would have to be absurdly high to permanently affect the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get hold of a lemon fruit, then use that. It's not been processed and you will get much better aromatics in the final product. But if you really can't get a lemon, then use the processed substitute (ReaLemon.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T01:27:59.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10841" CreationDate="2013-10-30T05:32:27.740" Score="1" ViewCount="902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a cider using 1.5L apple juice, 1 cup sugar and Saflager s-23 Dry larger yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was using a balloon with a pin hole as the &quot;air lock&quot; on this as all my air locks were being used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It had pressure for two weeks then seemed to die down a bit. When it died down I had a taste and it was slightly sour and yeasty so I put a new balloon on it and left it. I did not put a pin hole on this one and the balloon is now being sucked into the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What has cause this inward pressure and what does it mean for my cider? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to move it to a bottle now and cap it and let it sit for a month or so. Is it worth doing this or is it buggered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T13:37:57.320" Title="Inward pressure when fermenting cider" Tags="|cider|airlock|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10835" CreationDate="2013-10-30T10:20:35.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of sugar that you added it will give different tastes. If you have used regular table sugar (cane sugar) this might be the cause of the &quot;off&quot; flavour that you have experienced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally in any brew it is normal to use malt sugars for beer, these are added from malted grains (such as barley or wheat) and are the cause of the so called &quot;malty&quot; flavours to beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume that you are not doing anything wrong during your brewing process (without knowing the exact details) but would suggest to try to add DME (Dry Malt Extract) or LME (Liquid Malt Extract) to your brew. This will give your wort the malt sugars needed to give you a bit more &quot;beery&quot; taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your future brews!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Found this page that explains the different types of sugars that are used during brewing, and how they might affect your brew; &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/327-brewing-with-sugar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewing With Sugar&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T10:20:35.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10839" CreationDate="2013-10-30T13:37:57.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inward pressure is caused by the temperature of the air in the carboy being colder than the air outside and/or increases in atmospheric pressure - both will cause the pressure inside the carboy to be less than the pressure outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't indicate that there is anything wrong with your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T13:37:57.320" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10833" CreationDate="2013-10-30T13:57:56.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make ginger beer with ginger beer plant. I tried using lemon juice with preservatives exactly once and ended up killing my plant, and this was in similar concentrations, about 3-4 tablespoons in a gallon of juice. Ginger beer plant is a combination of yeast and bacteria, not just straight brewer's yeast like you are using, so maybe it has less tolerance for some reason, but I still would not risk it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you DO try it, make sure to report back your findings, I'm interested to hear what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T13:57:56.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10835" CreationDate="2013-10-30T17:00:55.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding simple sugars like sucrose dextrose increases the alcohol content of the beer, but contribute nothing in the way of body or malt flavour. Beers brewed with a significant amount of these sugars are often described as &quot;cidery&quot;, which might be similar to what you're calling &quot;wine like&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, try brewing an all-malt kit, i.e. one that does not instruct you to add any table sugar. Or, if that's not available to you, add malt extract instead of sugar. Because sugar is more fermentable than malt, you'll need to add a bit more malt extract: about 27% more by weight for liquid malt extract, and 5% more for dry malt extract. (Based on 46 points, per pound, per gallon for sucrose, 44 for DME, and 36 for LME)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the wine-like characteristics will be absent if you omit the sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When adding sugar or malt extract, each contributes a different amount of fermentables to the wort. This is measured in points, per pound, per gallon. Sugar, e.g., contributes 46 pppg. So 1 lb of sugar in 1 (US) gal of wort would give a SG of 1.046. It's hard to find a definitive guide to malt extract PPPG, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/Grains/Grains/GrainList.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Smith&lt;/a&gt; specifies 44 for light dry extract. (46/44) = 1.05. So to get the equivalent gravity points for 1 Kg of sugar, you need 1.05 Kg of light dry extract. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T19:54:04.023" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T19:54:04.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10835" CreationDate="2013-10-30T17:39:11.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sugar itself isn't the problem, but the amount of sugar might be.  In general, you want sugar to be less that 25% of the total fermentables in your beer.  A high percentage of sugar, combined with the high temps you fermented at, could very well be the cause of your problem. In the future, choose a kit that uses only a small amount of sugar, if any, and keep your fermentation temperature in the 16-19C range for ales.  Lagers should be in the 9-13C range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T17:39:11.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10867" CreationDate="2013-10-31T00:08:35.297" Score="8" ViewCount="47725" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making a beer kit some people say to sprinkle the yeast on top of the wort and other people say to stir in the yeast to incorporate it into the wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that there is the other method of rehydrating the yeast but this is another topic all together so if possible can we keep it to sprinkling on the surface against stirring into the wort as the kit says it is not necessary to rehydrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I gently stir in the yeast. Are there any benefits of stirring or sprinkling the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T23:07:18.773" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T22:08:48.013" Title="Adding the yeast to a beer kit by sprinkling or stirring" Tags="|beer|yeast|kits|beginner|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10845" CreationDate="2013-10-31T01:43:17.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question directly, I'd recommend a gentle stir. It will introduce a bit of oxygen to your wort. Also, if you aren't pre-hydrating, stirring will help hydrate your yeast and get them active. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast have 2 phases: aerobic and anaerobic. During the aerobic phase (while oxygen is present) yeast cells will consume the oxygen and multiply into more yeast cells. During anaerobic phase (no more oxygen), they are digesting sugars and making alcohol and CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not enough oxygen can lead to too few yeast cells. Too few yeast cells will cause a slow start where other anaerobic critters (bacteria, wild yeast) can get a foothold. You want to be sure your yeast are warm and ready and itching to ferment when you pitch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An over abundance of oxygen, on the other hand, can lead to too many yeast cells. When the yeast are done, they will settle out and eventually start to break down. You also don't want to ever introduce oxygen to fermented beer, as this can lead to 'cardboard' off flavors. I wouldn't worry about over-oxygenating with a gentle stir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I brew 10 gallon batches that I almost always kick off with a 1.5qt starter. I don't do any stirring; all the siphoning into 2 6gal carboys plus just dumping in the yeast, I believe, adds plenty of oxygen. But if I was sprinkling dry yeast on top, I'd want to give it the best shot to get a good strong start!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastEditorUserId="3914" LastEditDate="2013-11-02T01:55:42.573" LastActivityDate="2013-11-02T01:55:42.573" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10848" CreationDate="2013-10-31T02:20:40.080" Score="12" ViewCount="8603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if, for the sake of testing, it was a good idea to do very small batches of beer. I almost always see batches of 5, 6 gallons. I would like to make tests, and I don't want them to take 46 bottles of 500ml! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know what are the possible bad things about brewing small quantities of beer.  And by small I mean down to 1 gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read once that bigger batches are better.  If this is true, could anyone explain why it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3895" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T15:56:58.177" Title="Doing (very) small batches of beer" Tags="|beer|small-batch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10847" CreationDate="2013-10-31T03:46:47.710" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing 1-gallon batches at home, and 5-gallon batches at a friend's house, so I have some knowledge on this point. To me, these are the pros and cons with small batches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My spaghetti pot is large enough to do a full boil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It takes very little room, all of my equipment stores in a small plastic bin, and I can easily ferment anywhere in my house that is my desired temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can do full boils on my kitchen stove.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil times on one-gallon recipe kits are only 45 min.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I never have to make a starter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will be easy and cheap for me to experiment with all-grain (&quot;mini-mash&quot;), using my spaghetti pot and colander, or my $10 2-gallon beverage cooler with a small paint-strainer bag, for mashing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have the option to do a partial boil 2- or 3-gallon batch, split it between jugs, and experiment with different yeasts, fermenting temperatures, different dry hopping or spices, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottling is quick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can chill in an ice bath in my kitchen sink in 5-10 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning 1-gal. equipment is easy because it is small and light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am not stuck drinking 48-52 bottles of my lesser product.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It takes almost the same amount of work and time to make as a 5-gallon batch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is harder to find 1-gallon recipe kits, and the selection less diverse.  Northern Brewer has a good selection of extract kits.  Midwest Supplies has a few all-grain kits (Micro Bru), and Brooklyn Brew Shop has a decent selection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermenting in 1-gallon jugs, there is little head space, so I lose about a bottle through the blowoff tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The yield is only about eight 12-oz. bottles, so after sharing I will end up with around four bottles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is not enough beer to sample as it ages.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It seems like evaporation loss during boil is higher.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The batch is too small to take a hydrometer reading, unless you don't mind either losing 10-12% of your beer per sample or dumping the sample tube contents back into the rest of the beer (use great sanitizing processes!)  So I invested in a refractometer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is not cost-efficient to use liquid yeast, so I am limited to dry yeasts (not that this is a problem for the basic styles that I have brewed or plan to brew in the near future).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swings in indoor temperature affect a 1-gal. jug a lot quicker (probably due to lower thermal mass, and greater surface area/volume ratio).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixing small batches of Star-San requires a syringe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am not going to be kegging 1-gallon batches (although some people have been kegging in 1.5L mini-kegs).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:  I bought 5-gal. equipment and propane burner this week, and have a larger kettle, and am considering brewing primarily 5-gal. batches due to the yield issue.  The guys on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/&quot;&gt;Basic Brewing Radio/Video&lt;/a&gt; do a lot of experimentation using 1-gallon batches, so you may wish to check out their archives. Also check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/european-pale-lager/item/1378-small-scale-brewing&quot;&gt;this article they wrote in BYO magazine&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T03:46:47.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-31T04:04:59.853" Score="2" ViewCount="1180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan on brewing 1 gallon batches. The problem is that most recipes are for 5 gallon batches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scaling seems obvious: divide the amount of each ingredient by 5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, a few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What about hops measured in AAUs (seen below)? Do these still get scaled down, even though they are a relative measure of acidity?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does yeast scale? I can't imagine dividing a small pack of yeast by 5 and having my beer ferment appropriately...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any other &quot;gotchas&quot; that I should consider when scaling back ingredients? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example recipe from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter1-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;howtobrew.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Cincinnati Pale Ale&#xA;Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch&#xA;3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped&#xA;2 lb. Amber dry malt extract&#xA;12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle&#xA;5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty&#xA;2 packets of dried ale yeast&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my proposed scaling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Cincinnati Pale Ale&#xA;Ingredients for a 1 gallon batch&#xA;0.6-0.8 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped&#xA;0.4 lb. Amber dry malt extract&#xA;?? AAU of bittering hops (any variety) &#xA;?? AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) &#xA;?? packets of dried ale yeast&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3983" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T19:05:19.500" Title="Scaling recipe ingredients to smaller batches? How do AAUs scale?" Tags="|yeast|hops|recipe|grain|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10849" CreationDate="2013-10-31T04:27:39.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am primarily a one-gallon brewer.  I have never adjusted a recipe, so I can't answer the question on AAUs.  But I can tell you from experience that you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; &quot;scale&quot; dry yeast on pretty much a linear basis.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My method&lt;/strong&gt;: I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr. Malty Pitching Rate Calculator&lt;/a&gt;, and then use this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004O792H2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;$6 digital scale&lt;/a&gt; to weigh the dry yeast.  I overpitch slightly from Mr. Malty's recommendation (adding a gram or so to be safe, and rounding up).  I rehydrate according to Fermentis' instructions (weighing my water on the same scale by tare-ing out my container and weighing out 1 g per ml of water), and have never had a fermentation not take off properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T04:27:39.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10855" CreationDate="2013-10-31T06:28:20.593" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any estimate to the &quot;OG of the WYeast Liquid&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I make a yeast starter with an OG of 1.040, dumping in the WYeast liquid will bring it down, assuming that the liquid has an OG of less than 1.040, and I assume it would have an OG of 1.000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone attempt to factor that in while making yeast starters with WYeast? How is it done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T21:55:10.973" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T21:55:41.583" Title="Yeast Starter OG - Factoring in the WYeast Liquid" Tags="|yeast-starters|wyeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10851" CreationDate="2013-10-31T12:39:25.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that you have answered this yourself in your post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Wyeast liquid yeast is a 100% liquid yeast it does not contain any sugars that contribute to a higher OG. If it did contain any sugars it would start fermenting by itself in the tube...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case you do not need to take this into account but if you are worried about your starting not being &quot;effective&quot; enough you can take a look into this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BrewersFriends Starter Calculator&lt;/a&gt; to calculate the amount of starter that you should use in order to get your yeast going enough for your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T21:55:41.583" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T21:55:41.583" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10853" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-10-31T13:49:24.887" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T13:49:24.887" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T13:49:24.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10854" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-10-31T13:49:24.887" Score="0" Body="The layer of sediment that accumulates on the bottom of the fermenter during fermentation." OwnerUserId="3978" LastEditorUserId="3978" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T14:16:18.473" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T14:16:18.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10851" CreationDate="2013-10-31T15:14:48.977" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nutrient in a Wyeast pouch is around 1.020.  There's not enough of it there to have an appreciable effect on your starter gravity.  You can pretty much discount it entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T15:14:48.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10857" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-10-31T16:47:10.817" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T16:47:10.817" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T16:47:10.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10858" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-10-31T16:47:10.817" Score="0" Body="Batches less than 5 gallons in volume." OwnerUserId="3978" LastEditorUserId="3978" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T17:41:51.460" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T17:41:51.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10789" CreationDate="2013-10-31T17:04:54.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unless it's infected, definitely drinkable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More under the hard cider category. I guess you could say it's an apple wine, but like barely wines they are usually above 10% ABV. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You normally shouldn't see any weird looking crusts or floating material depending on the yeast you used. I would swirl the cider around everyday to help keep the yeast in suspension, and attenuate (create more alcohol) as much as that yeast can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further I would let it ferment for a full month, even if it's not bubbling. This allows the yeast to get rid of off flavors and then settle out. After the month, throw it in the fridge for a day and then siphon it out into another clean &amp;amp; sanitized 1/2 gal jug. Or if you want it carbonated put a half teaspoon of table sugar into a clean &amp;amp; sanitized growler and let it sit at room temperature for a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T17:04:54.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10849" CreationDate="2013-10-31T19:05:19.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can scale malt, hops and volumes linearly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While in principle hops don't scale linearly, it's almost linear, and depends upon your kettle geometry. It's not enough of a difference to worry about - the difference is less than the error introduced due to measuring your hops to the nearest 0.1g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evaporation is also due to kettle geometry, although this is simply a matter of adding top-up water if too much water is evaporated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T19:05:19.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="325" CreationDate="2013-10-31T20:34:05.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to use pectic enzyme to break down the pectin in suspension. I have not always put it in at the beginning, but you will have to give it a little bit of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3904" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T20:34:05.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10921" CreationDate="2013-11-01T13:01:46.183" Score="0" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know a few local beers, like Ayinger Kellerbier, that are not filtered and are turbid when looking through. Those are quite taste, but go the head quickly (meaning light headache, not basic drunkenness). Now, my first batch of cider has fermented. I fermented from mashed fruits, not juice, after filtering through a cloth I arrived at a very turbid fluid. It does not taste like much, the yeast is still settling but it does have this heady qualtity that I know from these non-filtered beers.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So, what makes the brew heady (in lack of a better word) and has it anything to do with the turbidity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3959" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T13:25:47.573" Title="What's the link between turbid brew and a heady taste?" Tags="|beer|cider|taste|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10864" CreationDate="2013-11-01T13:44:27.487" Score="1" ViewCount="1024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm putting together my first all grain system.  I'm converting a 44qt SS stockpot to be used as a boil kettle using a weldless bulkhead and SS ball valve.  I automatically assumed that I needed to install this as low on the side as would provide a tight seal (i.e. not below the top of the 'roll' at the bottom) but then I started thinking that there might be a reason why I should leave a minimum depth, although I really can't think of one.  I'm currently planning to use a bazooka screen to filter hops and hot-break.  Is there anything else I might need to know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3986" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T16:37:49.833" Title="How low to install a ball valve on a boil kettle?" Tags="|diy|boil-equipment|brewpot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10863" CreationDate="2013-11-01T13:58:45.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say the most important thing is a well-drilled hole.  Scrappy, poorly-drilled holes make it difficult to fit the component parts in and can make it possible for bacteria to collect between brews.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often you'll be hooking some kind of hose to the outside of your valve, so gravity will do the work.  I think for tightness-of-seal you're right - you shouldn't install it below the top of the 'roll' at the bottom.  Good luck!  Measure twice, cut once!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your comment, I think the answer to your question is 'no'.  Placement really depends on your setup, and in fact I've seen boil kettles with the output valve drilled in the dead center on the &lt;em&gt;bottom&lt;/em&gt; of the kettle.  This was being used in a homemade tiered system, and while it wouldn't be for everyone, it fit this person's brewing environment and setup perfectly and worked a treat.  So, I guess my original advice stands - measure twice, cut once!  How will your kettle be used?  What environment will it be used in?  Is that environment likely to change? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastEditorUserId="3737" LastEditDate="2013-11-01T14:11:12.927" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T14:11:12.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10863" CreationDate="2013-11-01T16:37:49.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are installing a tube on the inside of the kettle/valve, you do not want it to be too high to the point where the tube has a significant gap between the end of the tube and the bottom of the kettle.  Also, depending on your internal fitting, you want to ensure you have enough clearance from the bottom on the inside to account for your washer and even your tools to attach the fittings on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T16:37:49.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10845" CreationDate="2013-11-01T22:45:44.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, I haven't see any significant difference between stirring it vs just sprinkling it in. I've done it both ways and neither seem better than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my thinking on why it shouldn't matter:&#xA;Dry yeast is dormant and it takes time for it to rehydrate and become active. The amount of time it takes for it to rehydrate and become active from absorbing wort by just sitting on top of in from sprinkling it in vs the amount of time it takes it to rehydrate and become active by you stirring it up is negligible. All your really doing by stirring it up is breaking the surface tension created by the yeast flakes (or whatever you wanna call them) and allowing them to sink to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentis recommends (if not rehydrating) sprinkling the yeast onto the wort, waiting 30 minutes for it to rehydrate, then stirring it up ether by aerating or adding the rest of your wort. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFA_US05.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;via their website&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I use dry yeast, I usually chill my wort to pitching temperature, sprinkle the yeast in, then shake the heck out of the carboy to aerate. I don't wait the recommended 30 minutes and I've never had a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3990" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T22:45:44.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10872" CreationDate="2013-11-03T05:21:28.547" Score="0" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a week of fermentation I'm realizing I missed my mark on color and flavor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've got:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;A great brown porter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I want:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;A more robust porter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I steep some &lt;em&gt;Midnight Wheat&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Blackprinz&lt;/em&gt; (what I have on hand) and add it to the end of primary if it would get me closer to the results I'm looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Details:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;10 gal. split batch, WLP005 &amp;amp; WLP001 (64 deg. 2.5 days, 68 deg. 4 days)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;O.G 1.072&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(WLP005 @ 1.012)(WLP001 @ 1.020)...current(11/2/13)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;16 lbs. pale 2 row&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1  lbs. C 40L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1  lbs. C 80L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1  lbs. chocolate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.5 lbs. blackprinz&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is right in between a brown and a porter, leaning brown, and I want so bad for it to be a great robust porter! help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T16:30:41.377" Title="Adding color/flavor during and after fermentation?" Tags="|recipe|primary|porter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-03T08:11:01.910" Score="2" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a good source that compares the commercially available yeast strains from the most common sources like White Labs and Wyeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of something with homebrewing experience built into them: the differences of using WLP002 and WLP007 for, say, an English bitter, or WLP013 or WLP004 for a dry stout. What differences in character they make when using such and such recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, I would also like standard specs like average attenuation and temperature ranges to whether they are fruity, phenolic, dry, etc, but these are not so hard to obtain on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-03T14:32:59.607" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T12:21:22.820" Title="Yeast comparison source" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10765" CreationDate="2013-11-03T10:44:29.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just be careful that all the pots and especially the kuurna is absolutely clean and hygienically ok. But one of the most crucial problems is where to get real sahti malt. Otherwise everything is rather easy, but maybe it should be pointed out that please, put the fermented liquid after one day of foaming in a place the temperature of which is around 7-8 C. And don't move the can! After two weeks you can taste. Then put sahti in smaller cans and into temp. around 3 C. Don shake the yest in the bottom, drop it away - Now you can enjoy perhaps the best rural beer still existant. (You can use hops and juniper as spice during the fermentation but only a handful is enough.) Welcome to Lahti next summer - we will demonstrate how to make traditional - and local - sahti!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopsu&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3994" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T10:44:29.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10869" CreationDate="2013-11-03T14:21:25.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The closest thing I know of is &lt;a href=&quot;http://tinyurl.com/yeastbot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://tinyurl.com/yeastbot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T14:21:25.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10868" CreationDate="2013-11-03T16:30:41.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you plan to steep grains to make more wort, be sure to boil it to kill spoilage organisms and also to remove the oxygen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try steeping another 0.5lb of the blackprinz and 1lb of the black wheat might give more of the stronger roastiness you'd expect in a robust porter, but since both of these malts is huskless, you're not going to get some of the acrid dry bitterness that is typically found in robust porters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets/PDFs/Briess_PISB_BlackprinzMalt.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;malt analysis sheet&lt;/a&gt; for blackprinz says that 2-5% gives color with subtle, smooth flavor. and 5-10% gives a mild roastiness. You currently have ca. 5%, so it's not surprising the roasted flavor isn't as strong as you would like. 10% may be better, but hard to say if it will be enough for you - I've not tasted that malt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get some black malt, carafa III (regular, not dehusked), or roasted barley, 1/4lb of that will help add the stronger roasted bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T16:30:41.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10874" CreationDate="2013-11-03T19:44:49.733" Score="2" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to brew some ginger beer and other simple stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder what are the characteristics of baker's yeast?&#xA;Will they do for a ginger beer? What are the disadvantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Europe we have (&quot;Fala&quot; brand) baker yeast packed in cubes and dry baker yeast (&quot;Dr. Oetker&quot; brand). This stuff is cheap and I can get them in any grocery store. I don't expect wonders but a Champagne/other yeast is so hard to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3996" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2019-05-21T19:23:03.103" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T19:23:03.103" Title="What are the characteristics of baker's yeast?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10873" CreationDate="2013-11-03T22:22:56.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; since I made my answer you changed from Cider to Ginger beer***&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@brodul I have used bakers yeast with a cider in the past and I found the taste of the brew to be ...yeasty in flavor. It was my first cider that wasn't from a kit so it could have been my error, but since then I have used proper cider/Champaign yeast with much better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a simple cider then it will work and taste will be ok but for better results I would use brewers yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-03T22:31:51.960" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T22:31:51.960" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-04T16:04:11.700" Score="4" ViewCount="3836" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried making their own bottling wax using part beeswax? What percentage of beeswax did you use and how well did it work (coming on and coming off)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2013-11-05T21:18:36.150" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T15:19:12.540" Title="Beeswax for bottle waxing" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10879" CreationDate="2013-11-04T18:47:48.903" Score="3" ViewCount="1337" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently bottled a pilsner recipe after a drop from 1.061 to 1.011 specific gravity (over 6% ABV potential), and my recipe instructions called for 7-10 days at room temperature (since they've been bottled with a shot of priming sugar). Is this to induce carbonation or conditioning?  Room temperature is about 68 F where the bottles are now kept and its been 3 days in this state.  Then, the instructions call for moving the bottles back into cooler temperatures for lagering for an additional 2 weeks.  As a footnote, I tasted a sample at bottling time and it seems like it has a long way to go (in terms of taste, conditioning, alcohol content) and of course the instructions call for another 2-3 weeks.  Since it's my first lagering experience I'd like to make sure it turns out alright after lagering in the fridge for an additional 2 weeks at about 38 F.  Does the process I've described sound reasonable with a likelihood of suceeding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3999" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T00:53:47.157" Title="Lagering (Secondary to Bottling to Lagering)" Tags="|carbonation|temperature|bottle-conditioning|lager|pilsner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-04T20:36:01.210" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know the most common yeast starters are malt extracts which are sealed with an airlock. But the few times I worked with yeasts in the lab we used &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YM_%28selective_medium%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YM-Medium&lt;/a&gt; (Yeast extract-Malt extract)  to cultivate different yeasts, including S. cerevisiae. Anybody knows if it would be desireable to do the same if brewing? Or would it leed to an unpleasent taste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical YM-Medium:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast Extract.................................3.0 g/L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Malt Extract...................................3.0g/L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Peptone........................................5.0g/L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dextrose........................................10g/L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume it would have the best outcome regarding the devision rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally many people seem to put an airlock on the flask prohibiting O2 of diffusing into the flask. Wouldn't it be better to put a cotton gauze plug on the flask so it is proplerly aerated (with a stirrer) while being protected from infections? Or is it somehow desirable to have the yeast fermenting instead of its areobic phase? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4000" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T21:13:26.563" Title="Yeast starter with YM-Medium under aerob conditions?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|malt|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10877" CreationDate="2013-11-04T21:13:26.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's generally recommended that you decant starter wort before pitching.  As long as you do that, it doesn't seem you should get any off flavors from it.  I simply put some foil loosely over the top of the jug I make starters in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T21:13:26.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10876" CreationDate="2013-11-04T22:14:26.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;@nhunsaker this sounds pretty standard to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most instructions on a beer kit will get you to prime the bottles with sugar for carbonation, then to store them in a warmer place so the carbonation process can start to take place. Then you are told to leave the bottles for two weeks in a cooler place. After that you can put them in the fridge then drink them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tasting the brew before you have carbonated the bottles isn't a true representation on how it will end up tasting. It may give you a rough idea but leaving the bottles as per the instructions will end up with a much nicer flavor, clarity and carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I normally do is to prime the bottles then leave them in a cupboard for at least 1 week. You can feel the bottle if it is plastic and if it feels like there is a bit of pressure then you can  try moving it to the fridge. I normally get impatient after 1 week and move one bottle to the fridge and leave it in there for 2 days, then drink it and see how it tastes. If it tastes good then I start to move more bottles to the fridge, if it is not very carbonated or tastes a bit funny then I will wait a bit longer. The beer will probably taste better the longer you leave it so if you have the will power then leave it longer before putting it in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T22:14:26.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10876" CreationDate="2013-11-04T22:46:30.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the process sounds reasonable, at least to an extent.  The purpose of storing them at room temp is to allow refermentation to create carbonation. Then, ideally, you would keep them at 32-35 for two months to allow the beer to lager and the flavor to smooth out.  An even better course of action would be to transfer to a secondary, keep that at 32-35 for 2 months, then bottle the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-05T10:01:09.933" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T10:01:09.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10883" CreationDate="2013-11-05T01:27:18.243" Score="1" ViewCount="1442" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing a Russian Imperial (E+G version of Austin Homebrew Supply's Jester King &quot;Black Metal&quot; clone) stout that seems to have stalled after transferring to secondary. I've corrected the most usual suspects by moving it to warmer room and swishing the carboy a little to bring the yeast back into suspension, neither of which has had more than a ~0.001 change. (Perhaps the yeast remaining after the secondary rack was cooled a little too much... autumn weather decided to make a late appearance.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Is the problem solved by infinite patience or another yeast vial?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Statistics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast: 2x WLP007 in 1L starter. BBE: 30 Jan 2014. Very vigorous fermentation for&#xA;~3.5 days. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG @ pitch, 18 Oct.: 1.079 (calibrated refractometer with ATC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SG @ secondary rack, 25 Oct.: 1.022 (corrected refractometer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SG, 30 minutes ago: 1.021 (corrected refractometer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Target FG: 1.013&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Patience be damned, I pitched a single vial of WLP007 (BBE: 20 Feb 14, no starter) to give the batch a last kick in the butt. Based on excellent responses, future best practice will include starters larger in quantity and gravity, as well as adding the forced fermentation test to troubleshooting procedures. Thank you for the responses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 2: After pitching the third vial of WLP007 and waiting another week, there is no change in gravity. Considering the amount of attenuation (and the resources it's taking from future beers), I'm going to assume it's finished and let it age in the shed for the recipe-recommended six weeks in case of bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3876" LastEditorUserId="3876" LastEditDate="2013-11-08T15:42:00.983" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T15:42:00.983" Title="Unsticking a secondary fermentation" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|secondary|stuck-fermentation|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10881" CreationDate="2013-11-05T06:21:59.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to know for certain whether or not fermentation has completed is to take gravity readings.  If you notice that the gravity doesn't change after 3-4 days, and remains at a SG of 1.021, then you most likely have a stuck fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, pitching another vial of yeast is not likely to be as effective as you may need it to be.  In order to &quot;un-stick&quot; your fermentation, you'll need to create a smaller batch of wort, pitch another vial of yeast, wait for it to reach &quot;high-krausen&quot;, and then add that fermenting wort to your original stuck batch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you create this wort, ideally you will want to re-create your original recipe scaled down to about a ~1.5-2L batch so that you don't throw off your original recipe (grains, hops, and all).  If you do not want to create a smaller recipe of your original brew (sometimes the waste and cost justifies the means), a simple yeast starter of a similar OG will work all the same.  It wouldn't hurt in your case to try and find the darkest DME to use, as to not impact your Russian Imperial Stout's color too much.  Simply match the OG of your stuck batch, pitch a vial/pack of yeast, aerate the snot out of it, add a teaspoon of yeast nutrient, and pour it in after 36-48 hours when you see a nice visible krausen on top.  This will ensure that the yeast is healthy and ready to ferment out your beer the rest of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T06:21:59.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10881" CreationDate="2013-11-05T08:02:20.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to know if it's stuck or it's finished is to do a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/he-brew-qc.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forced fermentation test&lt;/a&gt; at 20&amp;deg;C/68&amp;deg;F on a small amount of the beer (say 1qt) with a fresh yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WLP007 is a relatively good attenuator for an English strain, with the range &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp007-dry-english-ale-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;given&lt;/a&gt; as 70-80%. The upper limit is in the optimum case, and you'll typically only reach this if there is adequate yeast, sufficient oxygen and nutrients at pitching, and a steady temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your current attenuation is 79-21/79 = 0.73 or &lt;strong&gt;73%&lt;/strong&gt;. Given that this is a high gravity brew, you should be sure to airate well, and pitch nutrients with the yeast. Also, maintaining a steady temperature (or even a slight increase as primary comes to a close) will also help keep the yeast active. If any of these pieces are missing, the yeast can drop out early and not reach the upper limits of attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other factors to include are mash temp and grist - there may be lots of unfermentables in the wort if there is a significant portion of crystal or mash temps were high. Again, the forced fermentation test can tell you what the actual FG is for this wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, even with two vials the 1 liter starter is not enough for this brew. Mr Malty recommends a 1.8l starter with completely fresh yeast, so I would go with a 2l starter or larger depending upon the age of the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T08:02:20.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10887" CreationDate="2013-11-05T08:34:46.220" Score="5" ViewCount="809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two plastic fermenters and am wondering the best way to store them when I am not using them? Sometimes I don't get the opportunity to use them for a few months (longest was up to 1 year) so what is the best way to look after them while not in use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After each use I will rinse with hot water and then screw the taps on, then use cling film/plastic wrap on the top then add the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T21:18:16.977" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T21:18:16.977" Title="How to store fermenter after use" Tags="|storage|fermenter|beginner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10886" CreationDate="2013-11-05T08:39:45.087" Score="2" ViewCount="2434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a lot of condensation or moisture on the lid of the fermenter when I open it during/at the end of primary fermentation. Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very thorough with my cleaning and sterilizing and always have an appropriate airlock in place but am wondering if there is any way that this will affect my brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the day at the moment the house is around 18-22 degrees C. I am not sure what the temperatures are inside the house during the night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T09:10:43.877" Title="lots of moisture on the lid of the fermenter" Tags="|beer|cider|fermenter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10885" CreationDate="2013-11-05T09:10:43.877" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Out of my 12-13 brews I have almost always had condensation on the inside of the lid of the fermentation bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a thermometer inside the liquid during fermentation, and one on the outside and it does differ quite a bit. Basically the fermentation causes heat =&gt; condensation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Totally normal!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T09:10:43.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10884" CreationDate="2013-11-05T09:57:42.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you do a good job cleaning by dismantling the tap, and that's really the key - storing the fermentor clean so that it can be effectively sanitized when next needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure it is drained and completely air dry before adding any seal or you'll get stale water in there. That can mean another round of cleaning to get rid of the odor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T09:57:42.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10696" CreationDate="2013-11-05T14:46:27.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've probably bought that same pack, and the fact they don't list the ingredients in proportion is annoying. I guess they figure its &quot;trade secrets&quot; or whatever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making the assumption that this isn't your first partial mash beer, I would suggest that you partial-mash normally, using the same water and minerals (if any) that you KNOW make good beer. The Burton Salts are sort of ambiguous, and could negatively impact your pH, &lt;strong&gt;but its dependent on your source water&lt;/strong&gt; as well. So therefor, if you aren't sure what's in the salts exactly, and if you aren't sure how your water will react with them in the mash, then it makes the most sense to leave them out of the mash entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just add the salts to the boil for flavor. Of course, the amount to add might be questionable too. I'd suggest contacting the manufacturer and asking what amount they recommend adding for extract-only beers, and then just throw that into the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T14:46:27.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6188" CreationDate="2013-11-05T19:26:01.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ranco and Johnson controllers are both solid controllers, and they will work just fine.  I know guys that have used both of them, and the only thing I would recommend is that you buy a controller that will work for you as you make changes to your system. To that end, here are a couple recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy dual stage - You may not be concerned about heating your fermenter right now, but I suspect as you go, you will find that you want to have a greater control of the stability of your temperature (I did, as did others I know). You will spend a little more up front for a solid dual-stage that can control heating and cooling, but it's cheaper than having to buy a second controller down the road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I know you said you didn't want to do much wiring, and I certainly understand where you're coming from. I am a noob when it comes to fabrication, electrical, etc. That being said, I bought an STC-1000 on ebay for $20, which came with a temp probe and solid state relays built in to the controller, and wiring the project was really quite simple. I installed it with an electrical outlet (two plug, controlled independently), and now have a nice-looking, homemade, 2-stage temperature controller, that I have a great deal of pride in when I look at it. Total time to do the work, maybe a half hour. Longer to research how I wanted to wire it, but if you want some help, feel free to let me know. I'd be happy to offer my non-professional advice. :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4002" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T19:26:01.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10884" CreationDate="2013-11-05T19:49:51.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/issue/item/33-20-tips-for-better-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;20 Tips for Better Brewing (Brew Your Own, December 1995)&lt;/a&gt;, the author says you should fill the buckets to the brim with a dilute bleach-water solution (one teaspoon per gallon of water) and seal them up; then rinse with hot water on your next brew day: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I found that recommendation surpising.  Maybe make sure your fermenters air-dry really well, and then seal them up with a dessicant pack inside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T19:49:51.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4620" CreationDate="2013-11-06T02:34:07.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would sit the full flask in a pot of water and bring it to a boil. Then start cooling it in the pot by placing the pot in cold water. Once the flask cools a bit, remove it and place it in the cold water. This will prevent thermal shock, boil overs would not make a mess and no fear of contamination from transfer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4005" LastActivityDate="2013-11-06T02:34:07.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10884" CreationDate="2013-11-06T12:20:22.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally clean and sanitize my fermentors and carboys after use (along with all other brew accessories) and then I let everything air dry (or dry with paper towels). Then I store them in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/pd_503451-61896-503451-120_0__?productId=4774891&amp;amp;Ntt=plastic%20storage%20totes&amp;amp;pl=1&amp;amp;currentURL=?Ntt=plastic%2bstorage%2btotes&amp;amp;facetInfo=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;large plastic storage totes&lt;/a&gt; that have lids that snap on.  This has worked great for me.  Also, they make &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=128404-62860-7104HFT-010-111-044&amp;amp;langId=-1&amp;amp;storeId=10151&amp;amp;productId=4323739&amp;amp;catalogId=10051&amp;amp;cmRelshp=req&amp;amp;rel=nofollow&amp;amp;cId=PDIO1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;long shallow totes&lt;/a&gt; that work great for racking canes and mash paddles, etc.  Tools that are too long for the normal bins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2013-11-06T12:20:22.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10897" CreationDate="2013-11-06T22:16:43.267" Score="1" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner brewer, but I've noticed that on every batch I've done so far, when the wort is boiling, and I stir the wort, it ends up behaving &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKLTdc0NrbE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this way&lt;/a&gt;. Can anyone explain why this happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4008" LastActivityDate="2013-11-09T05:33:53.350" Title="Why does stirring the wort lead to swirls and bubbling?" Tags="|boil|wort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10895" CreationDate="2013-11-07T02:04:13.307" Score="1" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed my second batch of 2x 5 gallon beers. The first time, kegs were recently reconditioned and so I did a quick clean and filled them up. This time, being some time later, I went ahead and took both ball lock reconditioned corny kegs apart and put them back together.  First batch went smoothly, and is all gassed up and tasting delicious. The second batch is now an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kegged it about 2+ weeks ago, and connected the gas line around 13-14 psi. I went in this weekend to taste test, and make sure all was well. It wasn't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem seems to be, from lack of knowledge, that I flipped the posts when putting it all back together. I wasn't able to get the picnic black beer quick connect to go onto the post. I tussled and thought, then noticed that the out post looked taller than the in post.   Acting smart I unscrewed the faucet adapter from the quick connect, and swapped it with the gas in quick connect (after taking them apart and assuming the are nearly identical.  That seems to all fit better, although the colors are 'backwards'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, now the beer seems carbonated, but is coming out at a rate not befitting of beer, something more like a pint in minute. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wedding is this weekend, I was hoping to serve both beers at the reception. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize the questions/problems:&#xA;Are the posts different only in height?&#xA;Are the quick connects different only in that same manner?&#xA;Should that have worked?&#xA;What's causing the slow dispense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How boned am I?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many many thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2351" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T14:06:29.887" Title="Clean kegged, put back together wrong" Tags="|equipment|kegging|kegerator|corny-keg|gas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10894" CreationDate="2013-11-07T14:06:29.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be OK. The connectors are not identical inside the keg. The beer out connector has a long tube to take it to the bottom of the keg. The gas in connector is open near the top of the keg. This is so the gas pushes the beer up the tube from the bottom. By reversing the posts you are effectively pushing the beer out the top of the keg by bubbling CO2 in from the bottom. See here for some assembly instructions and a picture of the beer dip tube: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.herveybayhomebrew.com/art11.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.herveybayhomebrew.com/art11.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the pressure gently using the valve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swap the headers back over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blow in some more CO2 slowly while releasing it using the valve to flush out the air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dispense as normal, and try finish it as soon as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4009" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T14:06:29.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1995" CreationDate="2013-11-07T17:51:08.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I converted a dorm sized fridge simply because that's what I had.  All of the cooling is provided by the freezer box.  I successfully bent it into the area above the 'shelf' in the back.  Works great but I am building a temperature controller from an stc-1000 to cycle it on and off to prevent freezing.  I have a dual tap tower and a drip tray and it looks very nice in the basement. The stc-1000 (google it) has a compressor delay you can set to prevent cycling the compressor too rapidly.  They are like 20$ instead of the 80-90$ of the Johnston Controls Model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4010" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T17:51:08.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10893" CreationDate="2013-11-07T19:41:09.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://iopscience.iop.org/0143-0807/14/4/009/pdf/0143-0807_14_4_009.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;scientific paper on this&lt;/a&gt;, but it is locked behind a paywall, and I doubt I could understand it anyway.  I am not a scientist, but I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; this is what is happening in layperson's terms: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a water-based liquid, boiling occurs at around 212°F at Standard Temperature and Pressure (STP) when liquid water undergoes phase conversion (from liquid to gas and vice versa) at that temperature.  Little bubbles of water vapor nuclease in the liquid, and then rise to the surface to break because they are lighter than the liquid -- they increase in size as they rise due to both merging with other bubbles and through expansion as the water pressure decreases as they get closer to the surface.  This is what boiling is. (Incidentally, bubbles are also formed because the liquid starts with gas dissolved in it, and the solubility of gas in that liquid decreaes as temperature rises -- these are the tiny bubbles that form on the side of the boil kettle before it starts boiling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By stirring the wort in a circle in one direction, you are creating a vortex.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the vortex, the wort in the center of the vortex is moving much more slowly than the wort at the outer edge of the vortex.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the wort heats, it rises in a convection current, and it is much easier for it to move in a mostly upward vector in the center of the vortex because the wort is not moving as fast.  Likewise, on the edge of the vortex, the wort is moving on a more diagonal vector.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heating the kettle keeps adding energy to the vortex, and sustains its movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The water vapor formed in the wort finds it easier to nuclease into bubbles in the slower-moving wort in the center of the vortex.  Perhaps the water vapor is phase-shifting back to liquid in the faster-moving wort, the temperature differential between the center and rest of the vortex is affecting the bubble formation, the bubbles merge in the center of the vortex, or a combination of those factors.  I suspect that a major factor is that bubbles are forming in the higher pressure areas on the edges of the vortex, and then when they hit the lower-pressure area in the center (think of the eye of a hurricane), they are expanding rapidly and quickly rising and bursting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remind me to tell my theory on why the moon is made of cheese. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2013-11-09T05:33:53.350" LastActivityDate="2013-11-09T05:33:53.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10901" CreationDate="2013-11-07T21:56:06.947" Score="1" ViewCount="2119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cider in the fermenter that has been there for almost two months. I am ready to bottle it now but during the half way point I took a sample out of the spigot to check the FG reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what is the best way to clean the spigot before bottling, and I guess do I need to clean it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My cleaning solution is a mixture of Tri Sodium Phosphate to clean then I use sodium metabisulphate to sterilize the equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cleaning solution requires hot water then soaked in the solution then rinse with hot water then sterilize. Its not going to be easy to do this on a spigot so what are some easier (but still thorough) ways of cleaning it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T21:50:43.537" Title="Cleaning the fermenter spigot before bottling" Tags="|cleaning|fermenter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10898" CreationDate="2013-11-08T00:46:24.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should probably just rack to a second sanitary bucket, especially if you plan to add additional sugar to the cider for carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you use a separate bucket with a spigot to which you can then attach a &quot;bottling wand&quot;. This allows you to fill the bottle from the bottom upwards, which significantly reduces the amount of oxygen that is absorbed in the cider. Also, the wand only fills when you push the base of the bottle against it, so is much more convenient than using a siphon, or opening/closing a tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/flc5P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottling wand&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T00:46:24.007" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10869" CreationDate="2013-11-08T09:56:18.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an unemployed developer, and I saw this question the other day - give this a try!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yeastbot-on-rails.herokuapp.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://yeastbot-on-rails.herokuapp.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs to be improved as the search function is a bit iffy (for example, partial matches don't work at the moment: searching for &lt;code&gt;Oktoberfest&lt;/code&gt; only returns some of the yeasts that match because some are written as &lt;code&gt;Oktoberfest/Märzen&lt;/code&gt;.  I will speak with the person who maintains the Yeastbot DB and figure out a way to make things work smoother.  Also the design will improve but...anyway, hope it helps!  If there's some other feature you'd like to see or a way to make it work better, please let me know :)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;since there are probably a lot of stackoverflow users here, you can find the git repository &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/daxdefranco/YeastBot-on-Rails&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; should you want to contribute!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastEditorUserId="3737" LastEditDate="2013-11-08T12:21:22.820" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T12:21:22.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10898" CreationDate="2013-11-08T21:36:37.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to rack to another vessel, then you can spray with warm OxiClean (or similar oxygen-based cleaner) or PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash - an alkali cleaner). Leave for a couple of hours and then spray with water. This will take away the residue. You can then spray with more OxiClean - in the recommended dosage it does in fact sanitize - I used to sanitize bottles with it, or you can spray with a solution of sodium metabisulphite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cider is usually quite acidic so the risk of contamination from bacteria is quite low, but wild yeasts are still an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-08T22:15:48.667" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T22:15:48.667" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-10T14:22:08.170" Score="4" ViewCount="7066" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on my third brew. &#xA;Midwest brewing irish red in bottles&#xA;Midwest brewing brown nut ale in secondary &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just bought Brewers Best milk stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pretty much wanted to be a little creative without going overboard and do an all grain recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am looking for a little help. I want this to be a vanilla stout so I guess in this case it will be a vanilla milk stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use vanilla beans or vanilla extract?&#xA;How much?&#xA;Should I use in the boil or in the secondary?&#xA;Has anyone used vanilla paste instead of vanilla beans or vanilla extract?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could walk me through this a little bit again only my 3rd brew! I don't even know if my other ones turned out haha. I have tasted them along the way and they taste fine but I won't be satisfied until I drink a fully carbed beer and get a buzz!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6019" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T22:10:37.843" Title="Questions about adding vanilla" Tags="|flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10904" CreationDate="2013-11-10T17:13:00.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be too much information, but here's an excerpt from my upcoming book &quot;Experimental Brewing&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Vanilla can be used in several different forms.  Start by obtaining&#xA;  the best vanilla you can find, whether it’s vanilla beans or extract. &#xA;  Beans should be moist, pliable, fat, and “juicy”.  Extract should not&#xA;  have any fake aromas or flavors to it.  Some extracts are made with&#xA;  wood byproducts.  Although some of these may be good, a lot of them&#xA;  are not.   Do some research and be prepared to audition different&#xA;  forms from different sources to make your choice. Be careful as some&#xA;  extracts of dubious quality use the tonka bean, which, in addition to&#xA;  vanilla, also provides coumarin, a powerful liver toxin. We recommend&#xA;  that you buy beans online because they are generally cheaper and&#xA;  higher quality than anything you’ll find in the grocery store. Another&#xA;  bonus, you can also usually find “Grade B” beans, which aren’t as&#xA;  pretty as “Grade A”, but work dandy. They’re also a lot cheaper,&#xA;  usually around 1/3rd the price! Bourbon Vanilla: When you think&#xA;  vanilla, this is the flavor that you think of. It’s a big potent blast&#xA;  of vanillin, the main active flavorant associated with vanilla. The&#xA;  bold character makes it perfect for anything that you want people to&#xA;  smell and taste and immediately say “VANILLA!” Historical note: The&#xA;  Bourbon name has nothing to do with Bourbon whiskey. Both Bourbon&#xA;  County, Kentucky and Bourbon Island (aka Réunion Island off the coast&#xA;  of Madgascar) get their name from the French Royal House of Bourbon. &#xA;  Mexican Vanilla: Made from the same Vanilla planifolia orchid as the&#xA;  Bourbon vanillas, the Mexican vanilla flavor is lightly smokey and not&#xA;  as buttery as the Bourbon variety. Tahitian Vanilla: From the V.&#xA;  tahitiensis orchid, Tahitian vanilla is a softer and more perfumey&#xA;  with a strong floral note that makes it preferred by pastry chefs for&#xA;  subtle applications. This is the one you reach for when you want your&#xA;  tasters to be puzzled and pleased Ugandan Vanilla: Also grown from a&#xA;  variety of V. planifolia, the Ugandan beans are consider the world’s&#xA;  most potent and provide an additional tone of chocolate from the dark&#xA;  leathery bean.  Vanilla beans can be added straight to a fermenter&#xA;  after fermentation is complete.  Split the beans lengthwise and use a&#xA;  knife to scrape out all the gooey goodness inside.  That’s where most&#xA;  of the flavor comes from.  Add that to the fermenter, than coarsely&#xA;  chop up the pod and add that, too.  Start tasting after about 5 days&#xA;  to see if you have level of vanilla you want.  The vanilla flavor and&#xA;  aroma fades sooner than a lot of other beer flavors, so you may want&#xA;  to let it get a little stronger than you think is needed so that in a&#xA;  few weeks the flavor will be right.   The number of beans to use will&#xA;  depend on the size and quality of the beans, the amount of vanilla&#xA;  character you want, and the base beer.  2 beans per 5 gallons is a&#xA;  good place to start. Vanilla extract can be added directly at&#xA;  packaging using the titration process described above for coffee. Oh&#xA;  and the best vanilla extract you can use? Homemade with the tincture&#xA;  recipe using the best beans you can find. One thing Drew keeps on his&#xA;  shelf is a collection of 3 different types of vanilla – Bourbon,&#xA;  Mexican and Tahitian. Each of the bean types offers a different flavor&#xA;  profile that you can use to generate a different effect. Even better,&#xA;  you can blend them in different ratios to achieve a different effect.&#xA;  Imagine a Belgian Tripel spiced with a touch of Ugandan and a big&#xA;  splash of Tahitian. With a cool ferment you’d end up with a barely&#xA;  vanilla and chocolate cake topped with flowers. If that doesn’t say&#xA;  special occasion what does?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the titration technique referred to...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pour 4 2 oz. samples of the beer (before adding your priming if you’re&#xA;  bottling).  Add a different, measured dose of the flavoring to each&#xA;  sample and taste critically.  Maybe even have someone else taste, too,&#xA;  so you can find a consensus amount.  Then scale the amount of&#xA;  flavoring in the sample you prefer up to the size of your entire batch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="3841" LastEditDate="2013-11-15T22:10:37.843" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T22:10:37.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10907" CreationDate="2013-11-11T00:02:37.507" Score="0" ViewCount="2902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen some people online using two kits to make one 23L batch of beer with more flavor than a single kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use one kit to make 23L you add the yeast supplied with it and 1kg of dextrose sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you add both packets of yeast for adding two kits to make 23L? Also how much sugar would you add?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kits I am talking about are coopers kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T16:29:11.060" Title="Using two kit cans should I use both yeast packets and how much sugar" Tags="|beer|yeast|sugar|kits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10906" CreationDate="2013-11-11T15:04:27.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You wouldn't need to add much more sugar if you are adding twice as much extract.  Adding more sugar will depend upon what you are looking to do.  I would recommend seeing what the OG is going to be with an online tool (personally, I like &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewersfriend.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend&lt;/a&gt;).  It would all depend upon what you are aiming for.  Adding a lot of sugar could impart a very strong alcohol taste to the beer which you may not want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would all depend on the style that you are creating.  Since you are adding more malt you could cut back on the dextrose (maybe 0.5 kg) due to the added sugars from the other malt kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would be able to get by with only one yeast packet but using both would give you more yeast and get the fermentation going quicker.  This is assuming that the yeast is the same strain.  If they are different, it could make things interesting and that would depend on what you are aiming to make with the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this question for mixing yeast strains. &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1647/using-multiple-strains-of-yeast-in-the-same-batch&quot;&gt;Using Multiple Strains of Yeast in the Same Batch?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3419" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T16:29:11.060" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10910" CreationDate="2013-11-11T16:52:55.513" Score="6" ViewCount="1190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some advice on what a good crush looks like, and whether it matters on my system. The opinions and pics online are all over the place on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;: I am buying small-batch all-grain kits at my LHBS, and the grains come pre-crushed. I am pretty new to all-grain. I batch sparge in a two-gallon cooler, using a paint strainer bag instead of a false bottom or bazooka screen. The crushed grains have mostly whole husks separated from the kernel, what seems like a lot of flour, and about an 80-20 mix of broken kernels to whole kernels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does the crush, especially having a high flour ratio) make a difference if I am batch sparging?&lt;/em&gt;  I don't have to worry about stuck sparges, but my wort is very cloudy.  My finished beer is hazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am getting absorbtion of around 0.25 gal./lb., which is around double &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6494/importance-of-mash-and-sparge-water-volumes-using-batch-sparge/6496#6496&quot;&gt;the 0.13 gal./lb. rate I saw on this forum&lt;/a&gt;. (I calculate absorbtion as: [water into mash tun] - [volume of two runnings into boil kettle].  My mash tun has negligible dead space, and I run everything out on the second runnings.) &lt;em&gt;Could the crush explain my higher-than-predicted absorbtion rate?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters in answering my question, my efficiency into the fermenter is around 62-63% on my system using this crushed grain, I don't test pH or my water, I use bottled water, my strike water to grain ratio is 1.5 qts/lb., and I then add my sparge water based on how much more wort I need by measuring first runnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Correction, I misread my notes on what I am collecting.  My absorbtion loss is a hair over one quart per &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; lbs. of grain, so that is squarely in the .125 gal./lb. that the experts tell us to expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T04:18:07.990" Title="What does a good crush look like, and does it matter if grains are overcrushed if batch sparging?" Tags="|mash|all-grain|sparge|batch-sparge|crush|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10908" CreationDate="2013-11-11T18:49:43.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clarity of wort has no bearing on the clarity of the finished beer.  Beer clarity is much more dependent on things like proper pH and mash conversion an d a large amount of flour should have no effect.  My crush is very fine with a large amount of flour and my efficiency ranges from 80-85%.  Based on that, it's difficult to believe your wort loss is solely due to absorption.  Is there any dead space in your mash tun that could account for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T18:49:43.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10908" CreationDate="2013-11-11T20:20:56.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good crush should keep the grain husks intact, since they will then filter out the flour and provide an efficient lauter. I also crush reasonably finely, which does produce some flour, but as long as the husks are intact you're good. I have a 3 roller mill - the sales pitch was that it doesn't pulverize the husks as much as a 2 roller. I've not used a 2 roller, so can't comment on the difference, but I do see the husks clearly in the grist and get very clear wort after 90 mins of mash recirculation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T20:20:56.363" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10911" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-11-11T21:41:51.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The beginner tag has FAQ's that most beginner home brewers would find as useful information at some stage in their brewing learning process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example questions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How to store fermenter after use?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How long will bottled beer last?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What's the point of secondary fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are not specific questions related to that particular persons question&#xA;Example misuse questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why does my beer taste a little like wine?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First time making cider, will it work well. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T22:38:45.920" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T22:38:45.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10912" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-11-11T21:41:51.287" Score="0" Body="FAQ focused at beginner home brewers" OwnerUserId="3206" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T22:38:14.120" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T22:38:14.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-12T00:02:59.430" Score="15" ViewCount="47030" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you use a refractometer to test final gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6021" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T19:33:41.013" LastActivityDate="2023-06-04T11:38:50.803" Title="Can a refractometer be used for testing final gravity?" Tags="|final-gravity|refractometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10913" CreationDate="2013-11-12T03:14:53.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but you have to factor in the alcohol so you'll need a refractometer adjustment calculator. Northern Brewer has one on their website and there are other online calculators as well. But no two calculators seem to agree perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, if I'm in the ballpark I'm happy. But if you want to be certain of getting the most accurate measurement possible you could do a side-by-side comparison of hydrometer measurements vs adjusted refractometer measurements using various calculators to see which comes closest. Then just use that going forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3709" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T03:14:53.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10980" CreationDate="2013-11-12T03:45:15.113" Score="1" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am almost done fermenting my first batch of home brew and am about to start kegging it.  The only problem is the current hose coming from the regulator is a good bit wider than the nozzle I have on my homebrew keg.  Is this something that can be fixed somehow, or should I look to replace one of the nozzels?  Does the hose width matter much for delivering the pressure to the keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: connector looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uTBrz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: looking back on this question, I notice this picture shows a barb that could be screwed off, mine at the time was not like that, had a particular barb all connected as one piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3997" LastEditorUserId="3997" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T15:50:45.197" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T18:16:15.960" Title="Converting hose size from CO2 tank" Tags="|kegging|co2|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10913" CreationDate="2013-11-12T04:12:37.860" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, you can determine the final gravity solely with a refractometer &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; if you know the original gravity (either with a hydrometer or the refractometer). I am a small-batch brewer, and exclusively use a refractometer for gravity measurements.  A few tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to calibrate your refractometer to read zero when using distilled water as your test sample.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your refractometer has a specific gravity scale (e.g., 1.050), don't use it.  Many refractometers have an incorrect scale because they have used a formula for the cubic equation to convert from degrees Brix to specific gravity that was incorrectly published on byo.com.  Take the Brix reading and use a calculator to convert it instead. &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=107804&amp;amp;view=previous#p952601&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source 1&lt;/a&gt; (dead link, but see &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150223193305/http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=107804&amp;amp;view=previous&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Internet Archive&lt;/a&gt;; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebeginningbrewer.com/tag/refractometer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source 2&lt;/a&gt; (dead link, but see &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160331183200/http://www.thebeginningbrewer.com/tag/refractometer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Internet Archive&lt;/a&gt;.  Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/1313-refractometers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;incorrect byo.com online article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The refractometer is designed to read samples of sugar water and fruit juice, not wort.  You can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/how-to-determine-your-refractometers-wort-correction-factor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;determine your refractometer's wort correction factor&lt;/a&gt;.  To do so, you need to take concurrent hydrometer readings.  The wort correction factor is usually around 4%. I decided that it is impractical to take hydrometer readings when brewing small batches, and that I will just assume that adjusting by 4% is close enough for my purposes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://seanterrill.com/2012/01/06/refractometer-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This calculator&lt;/a&gt; by Sean Terrill is probably the most accurate to determine final gravity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="17107" LastEditDate="2023-06-04T11:38:50.803" LastActivityDate="2023-06-04T11:38:50.803" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10915" CreationDate="2013-11-12T06:46:11.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing 100% what is available near you (saw that you are from the states which seems like a place where you can get almost anything from your local shop) there are hose-adapaters that you can buy, these are how they look in Sweden; &lt;a href=&quot;http://biltema.se/sv/Bat/VVS/Nipplar--Bordgenomforing/Slangadapter-25989/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Slangadapter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;After doing a bit of digging I found that they are typcally called 'Union Reducers' and can be found online; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grainger.com/product/PARKER-Union-Reducer-2GUF7?s_pp=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Union Reducer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The width of the hose won't matter too much. Since you are delivering low pressures (1-2 bar) the thickness will not affect the possibility to deliver pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T06:46:11.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-12T14:19:47.130" Score="1" ViewCount="2173" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winepress.us/forums/index.php?/topic/29378-juicing-apples-without-a-press/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I have read that&lt;/a&gt;, to extract juice from an apple, in place of a juicer you can freeze whole apples, mash them and allow the pectic enzymes to &quot;do it's work&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can any offer advice on this method? Is is a good one? Are pectic enzymes okay to use in cider? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T02:26:03.770" Title="Freezing apples to extract juice" Tags="|cider|pectic-enzyme|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10915" CreationDate="2013-11-12T21:49:49.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's common to use 1/4&quot; quick disconnect barbs and flange connectors (as shown in your photo) with a 5/8&quot; gas hose. Just be sure to use either a worm clamp or oeteker clamp on the hose to keep it in place on the barb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can get 5/8&quot; barbs for the flange connector, but I'm not sure it's necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T21:49:49.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10898" CreationDate="2013-11-12T21:50:43.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I quit using spigots because of the difficulty in cleaning them and the lack of necessity. You can use a wine thief for samples, and an auto-siphon works great for bottling (with the cane mdma mentioned). Also, spigots are too high, especially if the trub is low. I've seen all kinds of crazy bent tubes, etc, or tipping buckets to get at the wort, but an auto-siphon is perfect, it will dig a hole in deep trub and you won't get much trub after the initial draw. If you have super low trub, take off the plastic filter and it will get at nearly all the wort. If you aren't carbonating, then you can do that directly in the primary. But as mdma said, you really want to rack to another vessel (heck, even just sanitize your boil kettle if you only have one fermenter) before adding the sugar or you will have to kick up trub to stir it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using metabisulfite to sanitize is expensive compared with star-san or iodophor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Do you use must/lees for cider instead of wort/trub?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T21:50:43.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10862" CreationDate="2013-11-12T22:41:33.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can gather, you are wondering if there is a connection between taste, headache-inducing qualities, and cloudiness in both beer and cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For beer, one connection could be allowing kraeusen to sink back into the beer during primary fermentation. Kraeusen contains bitter hop resins (which contribute to the taste), but it also contains fusel oils (which can give you a headache). I quote from Charlie Papazian's &lt;em&gt;The Complete Joy of Home Brewing&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The kraeusen is topped with a very bitter and brown resinous scum, some of which will adhere to the sides of the fermenter as the kraeusen shortly disappears and falls back into the beer. There is an advantage to the removal of this resin before it falls back into the fermentation: There will be less of a bitter 'bite' to your beer. In the process of removing the bitter resins, 'fusel' oils are also removed. Fusel oils are a by-product of fermentation and contribute to what are often referred to as 'beer headaches.' If the removal of hop resins during the kraeusen stage can be done under sanitary conditions then it is advised to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, letting the kraeusen sink back into the brew can make it cloudy, although that is not the sole determining factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With cider, I am no expert but as long as you aren't using hops, I don't see any reason why there would be headache-inducing fusel oils. &lt;em&gt;Edit: I retract this statement. It appears as though fusel oil is a by-product of ethanolic fermentations in general. From Papazian's text, I gather that the fusel oils just happen to get caught in the hop resins.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6025" LastEditorUserId="6025" LastEditDate="2019-04-02T13:25:47.573" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T13:25:47.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10913" CreationDate="2013-11-13T04:14:07.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps, but I have tried this with a couple of online calculators and with brewtarget and each time, the calculated final gravity is significantly lower than my actual hydrometer reading. I finally gave up. I actually find the hydrometer a bit simpler for final gravity anyway. The refractometer with ATC comes in handy with hot first and second runnings and pre and post boil gravity. I can also use it without wrecking my plastic at high temps. Final gravity is always room temp (or lager temp) and I like to taste my sample at that point as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T04:14:07.933" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10926" CreationDate="2013-11-13T16:31:27.680" Score="1" ViewCount="1990" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earlier, I made a &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10836/yeast-green-apple-taste&quot;&gt;thread trying to find a reason for a yeast/green apple flavor in my beer.&lt;/a&gt;.  After a lot of thought and poking around, I have an idea of why this is, but I wanted your opinions on whether this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is because I added the entire starter to my wort rather than cold crashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This did not happen on my first batch, where I used only one smack pack of Wyeast 1056 on 4.5gal @1.052OG.  It has happened on the next three, where I used very large starters.  For all of these, I went for a very high pitch rate.  The second batch, I used a half gallon starter, and the OG was was probably just over 1.070 if memory serves.  The next two, I used a full gallon of starter (the local supply store I was going to seemed to never have fresh liquid yeast; I have switched stores because of this).  So 20-25% of the volume of wort was starter wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this cause the yeast-like aroma I am getting in my beers--especially because I am brewing styles that should not have this?  Any input is appreciated.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3981" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T18:40:44.877" Title="Pitching Whole Starter vs Cold Crashing Effects on Taste" Tags="|yeast|off-flavor|starter|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10836" CreationDate="2013-11-13T17:24:02.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast odour can really only come from yeast. After 10-14 days in primary, be sure to leave the carboy to cold condition until the yeast have settled out and the wort looks fairly clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The apple/cidery flavour does sound like acetaldehyde, which can come from to short conditioning period, oxidation, or contamination by acetic acid bacteria. The cider-like flavor is probably both from a combination of the apple aromas plus the sharpness of acetic acid. Review your sanitation procedures - e.g. use StarSan rather than iodine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Green_apples&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;homebrewtalk wiki&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Causes of acetaldehyde&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Acetaldehyde is an compound formed by an&#xA;  intermediate step in the conversion of sugar to ethanol by yeast.&#xA;  Under ordinary circumstances, any acetaldehyde formed during&#xA;  fermentation will eventually be taken up and converted by the yeast.&#xA;  The most common cause is removing the beer from the yeast too early,&#xA;  before the yeast has a chance to complete fermentation. In finished&#xA;  beer, the ethanol reaction can sometimes be reversed by oxidation,&#xA;  resulting in acetaldehyde re-formation. Adetaldehyde is also a&#xA;  byproduct of the conversion of ethanol to acetic acid (vinegar) by&#xA;  acetic acid bacteria. If this is the cause of your acetaldehyde&#xA;  problems, it will probably be accompanied by a vinegar-like or cidery&#xA;  flavour and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-13T17:33:48.277" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T17:33:48.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10924" CreationDate="2013-11-13T18:17:53.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's certainly possible - a starter is only fermented to completion, but not conditioned, so byproducts of fermentation, such as acetaldehyde (green apple) and acetolactate (which becomes diacetyl - butter/butterscotch) are still left in the beer. This have low taste thresholds (50ppb for diacetyl), so it doesn't take much for you to notice then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a regular beer the conditioning period allows the yeast to reabsorb these compounds and convert them to ethanol and butanediol, which have much higher flavor thresholds. But since this has not typically happened in the starter, the starter wort will be full of these off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the primary ferment, even more of these flavorful compounds will be produced. If the yeast is not given enough time to condition the beer, they may simply remain in the beer. And given that 20-25% of the beer was starter, that's a large proportion of additional by-products to condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although ales don't typically require a diacetyl rest due to the already high temp, it's worth considering raising the temp towards the end of primary towards 21-22C to encourage the yeast to condition the beer faster, and hold it there for 3 days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as you've hinted in your question, pitching the yeast starter wort is usually not done when it's so large. In a dark, flavorfull beer, I might pitch a 1l starter, but otherwise cold-crash the starter and decant the wort before pitching the yeast. Diluting the beer by 20% means you're getting only 80% of the beer you wanted - less flavor from malt/hops, lower FG, body and abv.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-13T18:40:44.877" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T18:40:44.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10928" CreationDate="2013-11-13T20:19:31.527" Score="2" ViewCount="18906" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an IPA recipe I came across, a final small addition of hops is supposed to be &quot;steeped&quot;. What does this mean? Is it just a different way of saying &quot;add at knockout&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe is here (&quot;The Immortal&quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.seattlepi.com/whatsontap/2008/05/22/elysian-homebrew-recipes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://blog.seattlepi.com/whatsontap/2008/05/22/elysian-homebrew-recipes/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T20:32:35.357" Title="What does &quot;steeping hops&quot; mean?" Tags="|hops|boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10927" CreationDate="2013-11-13T20:23:45.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it means at knockout (or flameout or 0 minutes).  There are different ways of expressing it.  Generally, though, the direction implies delaying the start of chilling by a few minutes to let the hops steep in the hot wort.  Often times, brewers will chill to approximately 180F, then steep the hops for a few minutes.  Supposedly, the slightly lower than boiling temp preserves more delicate aromatics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T20:23:45.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10927" CreationDate="2013-11-13T20:32:35.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way of thinking about steeping hops could be comparing it to sitting a tea bag in a cup of hot water to get out all the flavor and aromas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have added hops to a beer by doing exactly this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil 1 cup of water in a pot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn the heat off and add your hops in a hop bag for 10 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give the bag a squeeze every few minutes and turn it over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the pot lid on to keep in all the aromas so they don't escape into the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then add this to the beer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T20:32:35.357" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10939" CreationDate="2013-11-13T21:00:05.913" Score="2" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is it recommended to perform a secondary fermentation (an actual &quot;sugars were added to cause a second fermentation&quot; secondary fermentation) in a secondary vessel, as opposed to fermenting the beer a second time in the primary fermentation vessel?  Is there an advantage to doing something like adding fruit or sugar to the wort when it's not on the primary fermentation's yeast cake?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/88/if-when-to-move-to-secondary-fermentation/2835#2835&quot;&gt;Everyone&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/541/post-secondary-fermentation/543#543&quot;&gt;says&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9378/why-if-should-i-do-secondary-fermentation/9380#9380&quot;&gt;you&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5802/how-to-use-tart-cherries/5807#5807&quot;&gt;should&lt;/a&gt;, but never explain why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7788/do-i-need-to-rack-to-a-new-vessel-for-a-secondary-fruit-fermentation/7790#7790&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; comes close, but I'm looking for something a bit more verifiable than &quot;I think&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T19:44:13.010" Title="Why is it common practice to rack off primary for secondary re-fermentation?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-13T21:23:38.540" Score="0" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently found this beer recipe on Brew Awesome! (love this site).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewawesome.com/Beer/Beer%20Recipes/Belgian%20-%20French/Belgian%20Strong%20Dark%20Ale/54&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Belgian Strong Dark Ale&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bottled the beer and let it sit for about a month.  When I finally cracked one open to try it was incredibly sweet and sugary!  What went wrong?  I am thinking the yeast didn't fully eat all of the sugars...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6028" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T22:23:29.630" Title="Beer tastes really sugary" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10876" CreationDate="2013-11-14T00:53:47.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it's been more than 4 weeks since initial fermenting of my 5 gallon pilsner recipe began.  After about 10 days bottled at room temperature I tested one and could begin to recognize the carbonation and improved taste.  Today, I've moved the 6 six-packs of bottles to a 38 degree farenheit (roughly) storage area to remain for 2 weeks.  My understanding is that the entire lagering process lasts a total of 6 weeks so it looks like everything is on schedule.  These last 2 weeks of lagering at &quot;fridge-like&quot; temperatures is supposedly going to refine the taste in ways I don't understand completely.  Also, 2 more weeks is a minimum but I'm curious how longer lagering periods affect the quality.  This first lagering attempt has been a learning experience so thanks to all who responded with feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3999" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T00:53:47.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-14T06:21:59.917" Score="0" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fridge freezer combo that I am going to convert to a serving fridge. I have done this with an old fridge before but decided to upgrade when I moved because it was really old and crapping out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;What will happen if I cut out the majority of the barrier between the fridge and freezer? I'm concerned about everything freezing, or over/under using the refrigeration unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;2 reasons, first I really want my taps at a reasonable height, second, I really think the extra height would reduce the clutter of beer and gas lines and make everything easier to manage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes:&lt;/strong&gt; I really don't want to use a secondary temp controller, will the fridge's temp controller work ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Fridge I Have:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5ZSGtMB-F0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5ZSGtMB-F0&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T22:05:39.680" Title="Knocking out the barrier between fridge and freezer?" Tags="|temperature-control|serving|help|projects|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-14T13:39:41.723" Score="1" ViewCount="1822" Body="&lt;p&gt;What can I do with the pressed grapes after getting the juice for making wine?  It smells so good.  It seems a shame to just throw it all away.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6030" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-14T15:22:57.090" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T01:37:34.917" Title="What can I do with the pressed grapes (mash) after getting the juice out?" Tags="|mash|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2013-11-14T15:20:59.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewpi.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewpi&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 stage controller uses PID to achieve much more accurate temperature regulation than simple thermostat controlled on/off controllers. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;both heating and cooling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;web UI, and lcd UI&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;supports constant fridge temp, constant beer temp as well as following a temperature profile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T15:20:59.003" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-11-14T15:20:59.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10938" CreationDate="2013-11-14T15:34:47.027" Score="1" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at the White Labs WLP076 (Old Sonoma Ale), and see that it is available May-June.  My LHBS, which also happens to be a natl. mail order shop, does not have it available. I see some online shops that have it, but I am leery of its freshness. Are the Platinum Strains yeasts one-time special releases, or do they come out each year? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for such a rookie question, but I have not bought liquid yeast before, the web page for that yeast at White Labs is not working, and their web site is not really clear on this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T15:50:02.073" Title="Can I buy White Labs &quot;Platinum Strains&quot; yeasts in their seasonal availability window every year?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10937" CreationDate="2013-11-14T15:50:02.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;AIUI, they're generally &quot;one-time&quot; releases that might come back in the future if customer response was sufficiently good. For instance, Wyeast 3726 used to be a &quot;Private Collection&quot; offering, and is now part of their regular lineup; Denny's Favorite 50 (Wyeast 1450) the same.  Wyeast vs. White Labs, but it's all the same game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend using liquid yeast produced in June, especially for your first liquid yeast experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T15:50:02.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10930" CreationDate="2013-11-14T19:44:13.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume mostly for convenience, since it is likely easier to rack onto fruit than dump fruit into a primary vessel. Also, people are likely combining secondary fermentation with secondary for purposes of clarity. You would leave some trub behind (which also includes yeast) but there would be plenty of yeast in suspension for the secondary fermentation. I have spoken with a yeast specialist that described yeast in suspension as more active and &quot;better than the lazy yeast in the trub&quot; (his words), so perhaps there is an advantage to using only the suspended yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's racking to a secondary vessel, that is, moving the wort off of trub ostensibly for purposes of clearing; a somewhat controversial practice many regard as unnecessary as well as risky as it increases oxygenation and risk of contamination and there is a secondary fermentation; which simply means more sugars added for the purposes of fermentation after initial fermentation has subsided or slowed (like fruit, honey or usually something other than malt). The two practices can be combined but they are two different things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T19:44:13.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-15T00:03:10.277" Score="8" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found a box of home brewed beer in an old cellar marked 2005. Bottles look ok and caps are good. Would it be safe to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6031" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T22:21:25.543" Title="Is 2005 bottle wheat beer ok to drink?" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10940" CreationDate="2013-11-15T00:28:25.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why it wont be ok to drink. There is nothing wrong with opening one and trying a little bit to see how it tastes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it tastes all good then put the rest in the fridge and enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T00:28:25.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10940" CreationDate="2013-11-15T06:40:58.687" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be safe to drink - beer doesn't go bad in a way that can cause illness. If it will taste good or not is another thing altogether!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T06:40:58.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10944" CreationDate="2013-11-15T07:19:03.520" Score="1" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently putting together a new boil kettle, and am planning to use 1/2&quot; NPT threaded fittings attached to a welded coupler. I've seen a lot of designs which have exposed threads and teflon tape inside the kettle, which sounds unsanitary to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are exposed threads an issue? And if so, what can be done about them? Soldering? Or, is it possible to get parts that will make a seal with a coupler without exposing threads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2451" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T13:55:06.613" Title="Are exposed threads in a boil kettle a problem?" Tags="|boil-kettle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10943" CreationDate="2013-11-15T13:55:06.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see it would not matter if the threads were exposed, or if you had teflon tape (as long as it does not give of anything that can damage the beer) when it comes to sanitary issues since you, hopefully, clean your equipment before using it. Since this part will also be inside the brew it will be in a boiling liquid for an hour or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using BIAB-method then you might have an issue with the threads tearing your bag, but other than that I cannot see that this would be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T13:55:06.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10935" CreationDate="2013-11-15T13:59:40.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I have not done wine myself, if I ever did I would take the mash and make Grappa, Marc, Raki or one of those similiarities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found an eHow on how to make grappa; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_5200368_make-grappa-home.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eHow - How to Make Grappa&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see, if there was something (that tastes) better to do with it then Grappa probably wouldn't exist =)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T13:59:40.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10940" CreationDate="2013-11-15T21:14:46.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try one and pour it in a glass gently to see if there is year sediment.  If there is some, that means that the beer was bottle conditioned (good sign) but still try to keep the sediment out of the glass as much as possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some wheat beers that get better with age if this is a Belgian or select German style!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T21:14:46.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10931" CreationDate="2013-11-15T21:19:04.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you hit your final gravity? If you are below 1.02 and the beer is in a cool place you should be good from exploding bottles...hopefully.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belgian Strongs particularity using WLP 500 take a long time to develop.  Tuck it for a few months.  If it's in bottles but it in a empty 12/24 pack so that if the bottles to pop your not mopping your ceiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T21:19:04.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2013-11-15T21:24:42.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a big tub, fill it with water and have about half a dozen frozen plastic water bottles in my freezer at all times.  During summer every morning i would toss a bottle in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's really hot throw a few in and monitor the water temp and the carboy temp. When they thaw take the bottles out and put them back in the freezer and use them again the next day and throw some frozen ones back it.  A T-shirt is a good idea to because it sucks the water up some and keeps light away from your beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method was pretty effective and if you can't do anything suggested here just brew a saison!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T21:24:42.540" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-11-15T21:24:42.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10950" CreationDate="2013-11-16T22:32:18.570" Score="7" ViewCount="42291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that brewing anything over around 14% ABV is pretty much impossible…and that achieving anything over 11% in a homebrew environment is not very realistic.  Is this true?  If so, how do they make beers like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/35/25759&quot;&gt;Samuel Adams Utopias&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2882" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T14:01:14.790" Title="How do you brew high alcohol beers at home?" Tags="|techniques|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10949" CreationDate="2013-11-16T22:56:23.917" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;14% would be pretty high, even for high gravity yeasts, but 11% is definitely realistic. There are a few tricks to getting high ABV. You want really good aeration so that the yeast are healthy, often this means aerating when pitching and again the day after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also may want to add sugar slowly instead of putting it all in at once. This is easy with belgians for instance because you can just start with the malt and then add belgian candi sugar slowly, putting a little bit in every day or so. This is also a good technique for brewing things like mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then just basic things that you want with every beer, but are especially important, like high pitch rates, a large starter, good temperature control, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;11% is very realistic though, wine homebrewers do it all the time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: As to how higher gravity beers are made, it looks like Utopias is actually a true beer, it just is fermented for a really long time using hardy yeast and a lot of simple sugars. A lot of other higher gravity beers (Sink The Bismark, etc) use ice distilling to increase ABV after the beer is brewed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastEditorUserId="678" LastEditDate="2013-11-16T23:04:28.230" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T23:04:28.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10952" CreationDate="2013-11-17T08:19:01.687" Score="1" ViewCount="562" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does dry hopping reduce the amount of carbonation that a beer has compared to the same beer that isn't dry hopped? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a larger that I have made before that seems to have less carbonation that it normally has and the only difference I have is the addition of Wakatau hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I increase the priming sugar when bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDITED&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing details:- &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20/10/2013 Muntons Premium Larger 23L, Added extra cup of sugar at fermenting stage to have a higher OG reading. &#xA;OG: 1.040&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;25-10-2013: 30gm Spoon Wakatu hops added. Boiled 1Cup water in pot and let sit for 10 minutes then added to the brew&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2/11/2013 Bottled, FG 1.008, 1.25L bottles with 1.35tsp sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing temperature was not controlled but the room was fluctuating from 18degrees C to 22degrees C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not want to be too specific as I wanted to know if this applies to other beer types&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-17T20:26:11.300" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T11:03:05.247" Title="Do hops reduce the carbonation in beer" Tags="|beer|hops|carbonation|dry-hop|beginner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10951" CreationDate="2013-11-17T17:01:36.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, dry hopping has no effect on carbonation.  It does increase foam retention because the hops bind the proteins in the beer to increase foam production and retention.  You should calculate the amount of priming sugar based on the volumes of CO2 you want and the temperature of the beer.  Since it's a lager, you've likely been fermenting it cold (if you've done a true lager).  That means you'll need to reduce the amount of priming sugar you use.  You can use a calculator like this one &lt;a href=&quot;http://tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&lt;/a&gt; to figure that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-11-17T17:01:36.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10954" CreationDate="2013-11-17T19:51:41.553" Score="1" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the various recipe types they seem to break down into three categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extract Kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partial Mash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All Grain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like Partial Mash and All Grain recipes could both be done using the BIAB method.  Is this true?  Are there other considerations to be careful of when choosing a recipe if you're planning to do BIAB?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2882" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T11:05:09.630" Title="Brew in a Bag (BIAB) Recipe Selection" Tags="|brewing|biab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10953" CreationDate="2013-11-18T09:46:41.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct in assuming that Partial Mash and All Grain are BIAB-compatible brewing methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that if you are planning on doing Partial Mash, a bag would be recommended since you usually don't want to lauter the brew (maybe you do in some cases, but not any I have come into contact with). This means that having some specialty grains and extract you could probably use a hops bag or similar to steep the grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When performing an All Grain using BIAB there has been some talk that efficiency suffers, where some people feel they don't get out as much &quot;sugars&quot; as wanted from the grains; &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewmanual.com/mash-experiments-multi-step-single/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;see post&lt;/a&gt;. As far as I have seen, efficiency has not suffered for me (and a lot of others) when using BIAB and have usually had an efficiency of 70+ %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider when brewing BIAB is to consider the amount of water-loss. Depending on how long you are willing to let the grains drain (for instance letting them sit in a sieve over the kettle to drip) you will have different amounts of water-loss. As a rule of thumb I usually calculate that 0.9 liters/kg malt is absorbed from the brew (I am very impatient :)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T11:05:09.630" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T11:05:09.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10949" CreationDate="2013-11-18T09:49:56.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lugwrenchbrewing.com/2010/06/alcohol-tolerance-ranges-by-yeast.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; to view the tolerance levels of White Labs different yeast strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T09:49:56.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10951" CreationDate="2013-11-18T11:03:05.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measuring out individual bottles can itself lead to inconsistency - it's hard by eye to measure .35 tsp. It's best to boil all the priming sugar for your batch in water, let it cool a little and add that to the bottling bucket as it fills with beer from the fermentor. I imagine that's more likely the cause of the inconsistency, or if fermentation temperatures were different and you ended up with less residual CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; from fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I could think that dry hopping would affect carbonation is if you did it in a keg, and the hops absorbed some of the sugar solution, since they take around 5 times their own weight in liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T11:03:05.247" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10949" CreationDate="2013-11-18T11:23:29.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For very high gravity beers, you can use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp099-super-high-gravity-ale-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;White Labs Super High Gravity Yeast - WLP099&lt;/a&gt;. It has a stated alcohol tolerance of 25%. You can use just this yeast, or use the regular yeast that you want to use to produce the dominant flavor profile, and then pitch WLP099 when fermentation is 2/3 complete (ideally, from an active fermenting starter comprising the same wort as the main beer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you can brew high gravity beers just like regular beers, there are two common faults that occur in a homebrew setting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;higher alcohols - this gives a solventy aroma and taste to the beer. Caused by yeast stress, such as too few nutrients and by too high a fermentation temperature. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high finishing gravity - again, this is caused by the yeast dropping out early, due to insufficient nutrients, alcohol intolerance, or temperature swings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are reduced to a small degree by time. But the best way is to use the best practices when brewing the high gravity beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxygenate with pure oxygen to attain 15ppm of O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. Oxygen solubility in wort decreases with gravity, so airation via shaking etc.. doesn't provide sufficient O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. Oxygenate at 6h, 12h and 18h after pitching to ensure successive generations are able to propagate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use Yeast nutrients (ideally a blend containing micro-nutrients as well)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pitch a big starter - at least 1.5x what you would normally pitch for the given OG. (at least 1.5 mil. cells/ml/&amp;deg;Plato)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;regulate the beer temperature. This is particularly important since the yeast will easily push the beer up 10-15&amp;deg;F above ambient temperature during the first few days of fermentation, causing harsh fusel alcohols to be produced. Keeping the beer temperature low (as low as 15C/60F) will reduce the amount of fusel alcohols produced. As fermentation slows, the temperature is then increased towards 22&amp;deg;C/75&amp;deg;F to ensure the yeast don't drop out before the target FG is reached.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these processes in place, you can turn around big beers in a couple of months, rather than waiting over a year as traditionally done. The same applies to making mead. I recently brewed a 12% wheatwine that is very enjoyable in just 10 weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T13:41:55.400" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T13:41:55.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10959" CreationDate="2013-11-18T18:48:21.683" Score="1" ViewCount="1239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing 5 gallon batches.  I end up with 5.5 gallons after the boil so I split the batch evenly into two(2) Corney kegs fitted with an air lock on each gas in.  I ferment in the two kegs and then use CO2 to transfer from the primaries into a single CO2 filled secondary (or simply into the serving keg).  What I need to know is should I split the yeast between the two primaries or should I pitch one packet of yeast per primary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3986" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-19T14:01:11.000" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T14:01:11.000" Title="Do I need to double the yeast when splitting the batch into two fermenters?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10958" CreationDate="2013-11-18T19:03:08.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short: use the same amount of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should use the correct amount of yeast for 5 gallons, either split between the two cornies or added to the batch before you split it. Dry yeast packets have (more than) enough cells for a 5 gallon batch.  Liquid yeast smack packs generally do not have enough cells for 5 gallons of wort, which is why starters are important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T19:03:08.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2013-11-18T21:19:16.923" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my own family recipe that I have recently cooked off made from clover honey. We have always called it honeydew whiskey even though it does not meet description standards of whiskey. Its what I have heard several old timers call it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6036" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T21:19:16.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10958" CreationDate="2013-11-19T02:03:33.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be perfectly honest, you should probably be taking the normal amount you use for a 5 gallon batch and making a yeast starter anyway (even without the splitting). Shake up the starter when you are ready to pitch the yeast to get the cells evenly distributed and then split that into two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6037" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T02:03:33.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-19T05:33:41.070" Score="2" ViewCount="1032" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of recipes mention using a brewing kettle to make the wort. Is this necessary, or can I just add liquid malt directly to my primary fermentor carboy? I don't have a place to boil the wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6040" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T06:13:36.917" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T22:01:34.177" Title="When do I need to use a brewing Kettle?" Tags="|malt|brewing|kettle|beginner|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10962" CreationDate="2013-11-19T06:18:49.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This really depends what you're making - if you're making mead or cider, you don't have to boil anything (and I would argue you shouldn't although that's up for debate with some).  Some kits don't need to be boiled as per their instructions - and this is probably what you have.  You can mix the tin of goo with some hot water directly in your fermenter and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you work your way up to all grain, you will need to boil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T06:18:49.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2013-11-19T07:02:09.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have distilled mead, I have called it &quot;&lt;em&gt;Mead Moonshine&lt;/em&gt;&quot; when un-oaked and either &quot;&lt;em&gt;Mead Whiskey&lt;/em&gt;&quot; or &quot;&lt;em&gt;Mead Brandy&lt;/em&gt;&quot; when oaked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the name &quot;&lt;em&gt;Mead whiskey&lt;/em&gt;&quot; is not very accurate, the product tastes more like whiskey than brandy to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to make mead with some fruit (pears, strawberry's, oranges etc) I would go with &quot;&lt;em&gt;Mead(&amp;amp; &amp;lt;fruit&amp;gt;) Brandy&lt;/em&gt;&quot; or &quot;&lt;em&gt;&amp;lt;fruit&amp;gt; &amp;amp; Honey Brandy&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have added lots of spices/botanicals etc then I would just go with &lt;em&gt;(mead) gin&lt;/em&gt; (No idea how mead gin would taste though; will keep you posted as it is on my to do list)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively we could coin a new term based on Latin/Gaelic (Similar to how brandy can be called aqua vitae)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mellific brandy&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vigor melle&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mellis Animae&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;lt;- Personal pick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mel almas&lt;/strong&gt;  &amp;lt;- Other Personal pick (Gaelic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alma de mel&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;lt;- Gaelic &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aguardente de mel&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;lt;- Gaelic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I used google translate, dont shoot me if I got it wrong)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6041" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T07:02:09.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10967" CreationDate="2013-11-19T11:42:08.863" Score="1" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is considered to be a safe, temperature tolerant finish to apply to a useable wooden mash paddle?  The intention is to extend the life of the mash paddle while still actively using it, so the finish should be tolerant up to 170°F+ (to account for initial strike temps and the unexpected, accidental over-shot temperatures).  It also shouldn't leach any flavors or contaminants into the mash while stirring at temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T22:13:22.860" Title="What are good food grade safe/temperature tolerant finishes for wooden mash paddles?" Tags="|beer-tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10962" CreationDate="2013-11-19T11:46:03.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to agree with dax, it really depends what you are making. If you are in fact making a cider you might not want to boil it to utilise the wild yeast that is present on the peel of the fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are reading a recipe that is specifically mentioning your malt extract (or brewing kit) and it mentions that you need to boil it, then it probably means that it is not pre-boiled and it needs to be sanitised by boiling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to make beer without boiling anything I would suggest searching for beer kits that are labelled &quot;No Boil&quot; (for instance; &lt;code&gt;Coopers Brewmaster Selection India Pale Ale No Boil Home Brew Beer Kit&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, in order to add your own personal touch to a brew I would definitely recommend boiling, since you are then able to control all the parameters; malt-flavours, hops-flavours, bitterness etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T11:46:03.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10965" CreationDate="2013-11-19T11:52:02.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing that comes to mind would be to look for tabletop/countertop-finishes, since these have to be able to endure high temperatures of water spill. As far as contamination goes I do not know if they will release anything when exposed to the high temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One brand of high heat resistant counter top finish is Waterlox. There is no specification on what kinds of temperatures they can endure (but they do mention boiling water). The best would probably to get into contact with a local retailer to find out the limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; If you are looking to go for food grade safe I think you might have to ditch wood altogether though and look towards metal mash paddles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T11:52:02.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10968" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-19T12:12:09.123" Score="1" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a cider, and trying to break down the labour required to get things moving. I only have evenings to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I pulp the apples and juice them the following day? I am in the southern UK, and I have to keep the pulp outside but it it frosty cold at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T15:28:36.837" Title="Apple pulp. Can I leave it 24 hours?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10973" CreationDate="2013-11-19T12:38:43.337" Score="2" ViewCount="1608" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I went to my local homebrew store to purchase a an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.liquorcraft.com.au/afawcs0133827/CATID=0/SUBID=400/ID=6672/SID=258273014/productdetails.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Aussie honey lager&quot; extract kit&lt;/a&gt; but they were out of stock. The friendly man behind the counter helped me to re-create this kit by checking their files for what came in this kit. This is what I got:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Beermakers&quot; lager extract kit 1.7kg tin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.liquorcraft.com.au/afawcs0133827/CATID=0/SUBID=246/ID=197/SID=105027792/productdetails.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Beer kit converter&quot; pack&lt;/a&gt; for making lagers, consisting of a 1kg bag of powder (a mix of maltose, dextrose, maltodextrin, malted barley) and a 10g packet of Golden Cluster hop pellets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SAFLAGER S-23 yeast 11.5g packet, refrigerated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25g packet of Citra hop pellets for dry-hopping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;500g of pure honey (of which I only used 250g)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, because I didn't buy the kit as a whole, I didn't get the specific instructions for this recipe kit. Instead I had multiple sets of instructions (the &quot;beer kit converter&quot; pack came with some instructions, the tin of extract had instructions on it, and the yeast also had some guidelines as to temperatures etc, and lastly I had a look at some extract kit recipes online that use honey to figure out at what point to add the honey). This is what I ended up doing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heated 3L of water in 7L pot on gas stove. Dissolved 1 kg &quot;Beer kit converter&quot; powder, followed by 250ml honey and 2 tsp cinnamon powder for a hint of spice. Brought to boiling point as per instructions that came with &quot;beer kit converter&quot;, added 10g Golden Cluster hop pellets and boiled for 2-3 minutes. Left pot for 15 minutes in kitchen sink in cold water to bring temperature down a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heated up can of Beermakers lager extract, emptied into fermenter. Rinsed can with boiled water. Added wort from pot to fermenter, stirred vigorously. Added can of hot water with remaining extract and stirred vigorously. Topped up with room temperature water to 21L mark, and stirred thoroughly. Pitched 11.5g of Saflager S-23 yeast at 24-26 degrees C. The OG reading was 1046. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my problem: I've struggled to keep the temperature consistently low (the yeast pack recommended 12-15 degreees C but I've had it fluctuating between 18 and 22 degrees C). The packet did specify that you can pitch and ferment at room temperature when using a single packet, or at the cooler temperature when using two packets. It started bubbling away nicely fairly soon, but within 24 hours it started to emit a &quot;rotten eggs&quot; smell which I believe is sulphur hydroxide or something. It wasn't very bad at first, and I read on reddit homebrewing that this is often a normal by-product of fermentation, but it's been more than 72 hours since I pitched the yeast and it is still producing a LOT of stinky gas. So much so that I've moved it to my garage as it was getting pretty bad! This is also not good for keeping temperature consistent (early summer in Melbourne, Australia - not too hot yet but will get hot soon). I've also noticed that there's a very small layer of foam/krausen on top, no more than 1-1.5cm. My previous extract brew produced a few inches of froth/krausen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is the rotten eggs smell something to worry about? And can someone tell me, am I brewing a lager (hence should I properly lager this brew at low temperatures for a long time) or am I brewing a lager-style ale which can ferment and condition at more mild temperatures (18 - 22 degrees C)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help - really want to know how to make the most of this brew! Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6043" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T14:19:07.277" Title="Noob here... My second brew - am I brewing an ale or a lager, and did I stuff it up?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|lager|honey|extract-brewing|gas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10958" CreationDate="2013-11-19T12:54:42.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have time to make a yeast starter then just split it between the two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you should look into making yeast starters. I started out using 1 gallon glass jar and shaking it. You need to make larger started but DME is cheap. If and when you get a stir plate started will be much smaller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra step will pay for its self if you start making oversize starters and splitting them. Saving one for later brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6042" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T12:54:42.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10969" CreationDate="2013-11-19T13:29:54.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saflager S-23  is a lager yeast. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFG_S23.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFG_S23.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9-22°C as it ferments&#xA;12-15°C when you lager the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://billybrew.com/swamp-cooler-homebrew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://billybrew.com/swamp-cooler-homebrew&lt;/a&gt;  try doing swamp cooler to get that temp down and under control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lager not recommended for someone starting out. If you can't control fermantion temperature then you will end up with some off flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't used this yeast. But I know other give off sulfur smell. 72 hours isn't that long give it more time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ale yeast is more forgiving and recommended for people that don't have a way to control temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't give up brewing. My first batch was no better than pee water. I spent little more time reading up and watching videos and 2nd and 3rd batches were hits. Joining a brewing club or finding out if your local brew shop has a class on brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6042" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T13:29:54.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4669" CreationDate="2013-11-19T13:44:55.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding a Sterilock (an antibacterial airlock) to your standard bubbler airlock will ensure no bacteria or wild yeasts gain access to the fermenting beverage during the critical first stages of fermentation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6044" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T13:44:55.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10969" CreationDate="2013-11-19T14:12:54.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're making a real lager, so try to keep the temps as low as possible - around 50F/10C would be about ideal. (The fermentation will raise temperature this by about 6F/3C.)  But if you don't and let it warm up, it will still be a lager - it's because of the yeast - S-23 is a true lager strain (Saccaromyces pastorianus).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lager yeast tend to produce sulphur - and you're getting a lot of sulphur because of the high fermentation temps - it is expected and will dissipate eventually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lager yeasts are bottom fermenting - which is a old-fashioned way of saying they are less active, and so they don't always produce a krausen, or a small one at higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stick with the batch, sounds like you're doing fine so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-19T14:19:07.277" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T14:19:07.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10968" CreationDate="2013-11-19T15:28:36.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. I've done this before with no ill effects. The apples will oxidize and turn brown over night but this doesn't affect the flavor of the juice. As long as you keep the pulp cool, no spontaneous fermentation will occur. I kept mine at a controlled 32 F., but anywhere below 50 F. should be fine for overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T15:28:36.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-19T15:47:49.130" Score="3" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a Barleywine soon and wanted to add something to the secondary  to make it interesting.  I was thinking of doing some bourbon soaked oak cubes, but was also thinking some fruit would be good as well.  Any suggestions/help would be appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6045" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T03:46:40.430" Title="Secondary additions to a Barleywine" Tags="|beer|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-12-20T09:42:39.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2013-11-19T17:14:43.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Started home brewing earlier this year and so far have only been concerned with heating rather than cooling as I didn't do any during this year's long hot summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put the fermentation vessel into a metal bath and filled that with enough water to cover a 300W Aquarium Fish Tank Submersible Heater. This has a temperature dial at the end which can be read while immersed. The heater cost around 15 pounds and was ordered from Amazon. It worked really well, with the water in the bath acting as a heating jacket for the FV, with no need to immerse the heater in the brew, and hence no need to clean the heater before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6035" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T17:14:43.567" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-11-19T17:14:43.567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10978" CreationDate="2013-11-19T17:30:34.177" Score="6" ViewCount="4905" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend has suggested eggwhite as a fining for a beer brew. Is he pulling my leg? I'd like to know if anyone else has tried it before I find out either way!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6035" LastActivityDate="2020-07-04T09:56:18.533" Title="Eggwhite as finings?" Tags="|finings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10977" CreationDate="2013-11-19T18:17:01.820" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Egg whites have been traditionally used to clarify wine and remove bitter and/or tannic compounds. &lt;a href=&quot;http://winemakermag.com/993-egg-white-fining-overoaking-wine-wizard&quot;&gt;See the answer to the first question in this article.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finings&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; also mentions egg whites as a traditional fining agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, you're probably better off using a fining specifically designed to clarify beer. Isinglass, gelatine and bentonite all work well. This Beer Smith &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/12/30/fining-agents-improving-beer-clarity/&quot;&gt;blog entry&lt;/a&gt; outlines the uses of generally available fining agents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T18:17:01.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10977" CreationDate="2013-11-19T18:40:52.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Egg whites are positively charged, so it will attract negatively charged particulates (e.g. yeast), therefor it should have some degree of success in clarifying your beer after fermentation completes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to use egg whites, you have to fully separate the egg white from the yolk (one egg for a 6 gallon batch), add it to a 100 ml of salt water (by adding 0.15g or a pinch of salt), whisk or blend until the solution is smooth, skim any foam off the top that will serve no purpose other than to float atop the beer, and add.  It is recommended for wine to be removed after 14 days, so I'd imagine you would want to do the same with beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all that seems a bit excessive if not dangerous, adding potentially contaminated raw egg to your beer (which it should), go purchase yourself a $2 bottle of gelatin and use that instead.  There's a reason not a whole lot of people use egg whites now a days when a simple gelatin mixture in 150*F solution will work just as well if not better, and safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T18:40:52.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10915" CreationDate="2013-11-19T23:15:40.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I finally got it all fixed up.  What I ended up using was just replacing the piece connected to the homebrew keg with a different piece I got at a local homebrew shop for a few bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OBL4R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically this allowed me to screw on the size of barbed connector I needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3997" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T23:15:40.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10962" CreationDate="2013-11-19T23:41:05.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using a pre-hopped extract, no boil brewing is possible. All extracts have already been boiled by the manufacturer anyways; with extracts, the main purpose behind boiling is you need the higher temperatures to cause isomerization of the hop acids so the hop bitterness gets into the beer. Secondary reasons for boiling extracts are additional protein coagulation, removing chloramines (when using tap water), and just extra assurance of sanitation for the paranoid among us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I'd never do a no boil beer, as it would inhibit my ability to relax, not worry and have a homebrew. But it can result in quality, even &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/556-dont-boil-it&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;award winning&lt;/a&gt; beer. Just be extra vigilant with your sanitation procedures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6053" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T23:41:05.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10997" CreationDate="2013-11-20T02:15:13.513" Score="8" ViewCount="63323" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously the style of beer, type of grain (barley, wheat, etc) and depth of roast would make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in general what would be the typical ranges be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a Dark Stout: A kg of grain plus X litres of water gives one litre of wort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a Pale Ale:   B kg of grain plus Y litres of water gives one litre of wort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you give imperial measurements (lbs Gal) I can covert them no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Bonus points: And when and why would you deviate from that?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6041" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T22:04:45.440" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T21:38:58.137" Title="As a benchmark, how much grain (and water) would be used to make one litre (or 100L) of wort?" Tags="|beer|whiskey|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-20T03:07:14.057" Score="1" ViewCount="4782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pitched the yeast at 40&amp;deg;F (4.5°C). Was it way too cold and should I re-pitch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T15:42:55.897" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T15:44:08.520" Title="Pitched yeast at 40 °F (4.5°C). Too cold?" Tags="|yeast|temperature|wort|beginner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10983" CreationDate="2013-11-20T03:14:00.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean 40°F, then yes way too cold. it won't harm the existing yeast organisms, but even for lager yeast that is too cold for primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so basically we do things at certain temps for a reason... we try to pitch yeast at a temperature that gives them the advantage over other contaminant organisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;warm your wort to the primary temperature and fermentation should start after a short delay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3773" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T16:00:24.173" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:00:24.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10982" CreationDate="2013-11-20T03:19:03.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;well it depends on the style, so I might make a whole grain ale that is very pale and assuming a good conversion ratio and easy math figure of 1lb per gallon. liter is about 1/4 gallon, so 1/4 pound. round up a little and call that 125g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;of course working with such a small amount you will likely get much worse conversion, and you could probably just double that amount, 250g pale malted barley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3773" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T03:19:03.873" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10975" CreationDate="2013-11-20T03:32:46.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say you have 3 tones you could go with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;herbal: cardamom, nutmeg, allspice or star anise.&#xA;this might be a nice little warm note over the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fruity: orange or lemon zest, or stone fruit(cherries, apricots, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or extra bitter: Wormwood if you are a masochist&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;taste your wort to what it needs for good balance. I have a hard time making high gravity beers because they have bad balance and taste like bananas and vanilla, but good luck to you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3773" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T03:32:46.967" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-12-20T09:42:39.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10962" CreationDate="2013-11-20T03:39:40.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you are talking about beer, I would say that it isn't worth doing unless the end product is going to be good, and you will likely be disappointed by a hopped extract kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you are doing this as sort of an experiment rather than to have loads of great beer, then there is no harm in trying... but don't think that you are bad at brewing because the sauce you reconstituted didn't turn into great beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3773" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T03:39:40.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2441" CreationDate="2013-11-20T07:03:07.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you made a stout (or wheat?!?) type of beer you may be able could get away with it being a bit cloudy. (Something with a creamy mouth feel already)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would boil up your mash as normal, leave to cool. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prepare your must, add to wort (like normal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cap and wait for the bubbles to get going (one day?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blend up a few avocados (with a little lemon juice, to stop browning) until they are really smooth &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix in your avocado &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brew like normal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you get to racking off you may need to rack off the lees first, leave it to stand, and then reverse rack off (take every thing from the bottom) leaving any floating oil etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine many fining agents will not work very well; you will need to experiment.&#xA;Also adding an emulsifier (like lecithin)  may help prevent the oils from separating out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6041" LastEditorUserId="6041" LastEditDate="2014-05-13T20:36:37.193" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T20:36:37.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2013-11-20T07:25:47.083" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make a flour from the grain, and follow any of the recipes listed here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://brooklynbrewshop.com/themash/category/spentgrainchef/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spent Grain Chef&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6055" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-09-23T11:47:43.757" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T11:47:43.757" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-11-20T07:25:47.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10982" CreationDate="2013-11-20T16:35:15.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is like saying &quot;how long is a piece of string?&quot;.  But here's one way to look at it....on average, at 100 % efficiency, a lb. of base grain in a gal. of water will give you 36 gravity points, or an OG of 1.036.  Assuming 75% efficiency, about average for most brewers, you'd get 25 ppg (points/pound/gal.) or an OG of 1.025 for one gallon.  So, there is no real standard.  You use as much grain as you need to get the OG you want.  For instance, assuming 75% efficiency, you'd use 2 lb. of grain per gallon of water for a gallon of 1.050 beer.  If you wanted 5 gallons of beer, you'd multiply that by 5 and use 10 lb. of grain and 5 gal. of water.  Of course, this doesn't account for grain absorption or wort boil off, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T18:38:48.413" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T18:38:48.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10992" CreationDate="2013-11-20T16:50:30.133" Score="2" ViewCount="754" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed up a Caribou Slobber from Northern Brewing. I had a foam over, I sanitized a new stopper, air lock and resealed the carboy. Now I have no bubbles in my airlock, and all of the sediment is on the walls of the carboy and not on top of the wort (so it is not touching the wort and therefore will not fall to the bottom). Is my brew okay? Its been over a week of this, should I transfer to secondary carboy for secondary fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6058" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T20:07:04.073" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T20:07:04.073" Title="Foam Overflow - Residue on Carboy walls" Tags="|fermentation|foam|blow-off|sediment|beginner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10991" CreationDate="2013-11-20T17:49:01.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a vigorous, but otherwise normal fermentation. Rack to secondary, if that's your process, or leave it in the carboy for another week or two before bottling. The krausen residue on the walls of the carboy won't affect the final beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future you might consider using a blow-off tube instead of an airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T17:49:01.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10991" CreationDate="2013-11-20T17:49:25.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you're fine.  No, don't xfer to a secondary...at least not yet.  You probably don't need a secondary at all.  A lot of brewers have found that it's unnecessary.  If you decide you want to xfer, give it at least 3 weeks in primary first.  There's nothing wrong with leaving it in there that long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T17:49:25.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10141" CreationDate="2013-11-20T21:20:19.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/2500/ndzym02-Chile_Beer.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;November/December issue of Zymurgy magazine&lt;/a&gt; has an article on adding chiles to beer. They recommend pairing a dark beer, like a brown ale, with dried red chiles. They cited examples of brewers either adding the chiles in the boil kettle, or using a dry hopping technique (adding chiles as an ingredient in the fermenter, usually during secondary fermentation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like any spice, I think subtlety is the key to drinkability. Also, because peppers are highly variable in terms of heat, even from pepper to pepper, you probably should taste them before deciding how much to add.  (For example, I tried to add slices of Serrano pepper to a Belgian golden ale at bottling and the results were overpowering.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trick to determine spicing level is to make a tincture by soaking the spice in vodka for a week or more. Prepare 4 oz. of a neutral, all-malt beer (e.g., Michelob). Remove the spice, and add the tincture, drop-by-drop to the glass until you get the taste you like. Remember to refill to 4 oz. each time.  Then to get the final amount to add, multiply: (the number of drops) x (32) x (number of gallons in batch that is going into the fermenter).  &lt;em&gt;Note&lt;/em&gt;: unless you fill a new four ounces, remember that you are slightly diluting the prior concentration when you refill to four ounces and adjust for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T22:55:45.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10996" CreationDate="2013-11-20T22:36:50.810" Score="0" ViewCount="1811" Body="&lt;p&gt;So if I have, say, a 10 litre brew bucket, how many bottles would I expect to be able to fill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that larger batches would have less waste. Interested in home brew sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6041" LastEditorUserId="6041" LastEditDate="2019-05-01T06:22:17.860" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T06:22:17.860" Title="If I brew 10 (or 100) litres of wort, typically how much beer would that make? (How much is lost due to racking etc)" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10995" CreationDate="2013-11-20T22:59:08.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the primary ferment you typically want at least 25% additional headroom, ideally 50%. So for a 5 gallon (ca. 20l) batch, you'll find 6.5 gallon (25l) carboys or 7.5 gallon (30l) pails in common use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are losses, like the trub (sediment) left behind in the primary fermentor and wort removed for hydrometer samples, so many brewers will add 10% or more to the batch size to account for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think larger batches have considerably less waste, at least not on the fermentation side - the amount of yeast and trub scales as the batch size grows, which is the main cause of wort loss. The one or two hydrometer samples - ca. 100ml each would be the same for larger batches, but it's a small amount compared to the volume of the trub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for a 10l fermentation vessel, you could expect to ferment no more than 8l (giving 25% headspace), and you'd probably lose 10% of that as trub, so ca. 1l, giving you 7l of bottled beer. It will vary depending upon the exact nature of the equipment you're using, deadspaces in vessels etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T22:59:08.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10982" CreationDate="2013-11-20T23:20:45.097" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will vary, but to give you a benchmark, you can use this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/brewhouse-efficiency/&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend Calculator&lt;/a&gt; to play with the variables of amount of grain, gravity and volume of beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I plug in 100 liters as the volume, 1.050 as the measured gravity (this isn't really important - it just calculates pre-boil efficiency), and choose 25kg of American Pilsner malt, it tells me that this corresponds to 65% efficiency, which is typical for some systems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in round figures, 25kg for 100 liters - that's &lt;strong&gt;0.25kg malt per liter&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to check if it's in the ballpark, I compare it to my recent brews, I use typically use 8kg for 40 liters of 1.050 SG (ca. 4.3%) beer, which is 0.2kg malt per liter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This week, I'm going to brew a 14% Imperial Stout, with 25kg of grain for 40l of beer, so that's 0.625kg malt per liter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest contributors to how much malt you need is the desired starting gravity and brewhouse efficiency. Using different grains don't make a huge amount of difference - those grains with low yields are typically only a small part of the grain bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You ask when you'd deviate from this. The amount of grain per volume of beer depends upon many factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brewhouse efficiency (which covers all the losses from the minute you acquire the grain until it's in the bottle.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;desired abv of the brew (higher abv requires more grain)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This glosses over many details, but that's the essence of it - the brewhouse efficiency determines how well you used the grain, so lower efficiency requires more grain, and with a higher starting gravity, you of course need more grain for the given batch size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see from your profile you're a developer - I feel you might be trying to be too systematic about this. To know how much grain you need, it's best to follow an existing recipe, one where the mash efficiency is around 70%. That will give both the quantity of grain and the recipe yield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T23:33:37.497" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T23:33:37.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1862" CreationDate="2013-11-21T03:38:05.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google tells me that (boiled) pumpkin is about 6% carbohydrates (1% protein, and not much else other than water) Barley is about 73% carbohydrates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my back of the envelope maths says that your normal mash is about 20% carbs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back of the envelope goes on to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put in one quart of mashed boiled pumpkin, put in one quart &lt;strong&gt;less&lt;/strong&gt; water and 1/4 pounds &lt;strong&gt;less&lt;/strong&gt; grain. Assuming that does not make the beer mash too gluggy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However your YMMV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will go home and calculate this properly tonight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6041" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T03:38:05.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2706" CreationDate="2013-11-21T03:40:09.923" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can use bread yeast, how do you think the convicted make prune?! It can actually taste good if you keep the sugar low so that the fermentation stops at 6% alcohol.  If you go as high as you can until the yeast drops out, it will taste bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6060" LastEditorUserId="3773" LastEditDate="2013-11-21T13:00:08.723" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T13:00:08.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2706" CreationDate="2013-11-21T04:23:45.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used bakers yeast with a cider in the past and I found the taste of the brew to be ...yeasty in flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was my first cider that wasn't from a kit so it could have been my error, but since then I have used proper cider/Champaign yeast with much better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would definitely recommend using proper brewing yeast if you are going to bother to take the time to create the brew in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T03:17:11.663" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T03:17:11.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5567" CreationDate="2013-11-21T08:33:26.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a noob, but have done similar research and can offer the following two links which haven't been mentioned yet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.liquorcraft.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.liquorcraft.com.au&lt;/a&gt; - Their website is pretty amateur but they have 3 stores in Melbourne. I visited the Richmond store last week and had no complaints. The man was friendly enough although I'm not in a position to judge his knowledge level as I myself am a total noob. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grainandgrape.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.grainandgrape.com.au&lt;/a&gt; - I haven't been to this store personally (yet) but their website is very good and I have had them recommended to me by an acquaintance who has been home brewing for a few years now. I plan to attend a free brew day at their store in a couple of weeks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6043" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T08:33:26.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-21T16:16:28.210" Score="2" ViewCount="2969" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing wine for a few years now but only just recently turned to beer. I've just finished (as in &quot;consumed&quot;) my first brew and have now got my second one on the go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of my brews are extract/hops type brew. I've done a lot of reading around the subject and dipped into various forums and I think I pretty much understand the whole hopping process and such... however there are a few things I can't find clear answers for... hence my appearance here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first brew, a dark ale, tasted really good but didn't have much of a head. I'll explain how I brewed it - perhaps someone can explain if I did anything wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boiled up the extract (2 standard tins) with about 80g of hops in as much water as I could get on my stove top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the extract in my 5 gallon primary fermenter (not a pressure barrel) and topped up to 5 gallons with boiled water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added a 20g hop bag into the primary fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added yeast when the brew was about room temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;about 36 hours later primary fermentation started... bubbling away nicely after 48 hours. I'm in the UK so I needed to wrap the barrel in blankets - I kept the temperature at around 20oC fairly well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When fermentation had pretty much finished I siphoned off into a sterilised 5 gallon pressure barrel (no CO2 cannister. Made sure it was quite splashy when I did it. I primed it with about a cupful of sugar and lidded up the barrel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After another couple of days I was tapping off nice pints of dark ale under reasonable pressure (at least I thought it was reasonable pressure - it might not have been) but with no head. I'd only tap a max of 4 pints a day for my wife and me... perhaps 6 tops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After another 2 or 3 days I was beginning to get at least a thin layer of small bubbles sitting on top of the pint but nothing approaching a head, as such.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, with my second brew (a light malt/wheat hoppy brew) on the go in my primary 5 gallon bucket (with air trap - not pressurised) I want to try and get a better head. I got the brew going yesterday and by this morning it was bubbling vigorously. I've added extra sugar so it's going to be about a 6.5% brew and I want to put it in my pressure barrel. How and when would I be best to do this, and is there anything else I can do to improve the head?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for reading and even more thanks for helping! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-21T17:48:53.927" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T17:48:53.927" Title="Lack of head/foam/carbonation in my beer" Tags="|pressure|head|beginner|barrel|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11003" CreationDate="2013-11-21T16:33:46.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Foam formation is related to the protein content of the beer and fermentation specifics.  You can increase the protein content by steeping some non diastatic malt, like crystal, as part of your brewing liquor.  Once you have the protein in your beer, increased hopping increases foam as the polyphenols in the hops bind the proteins in the beer.  For the impact of yeast and fermentation on foam, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/article/indices/35-head-retention/697-getting-good-beer-foam-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/stories/article/indices/35-head-retention/697-getting-good-beer-foam-techniques&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T16:33:46.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11003" CreationDate="2013-11-21T17:11:58.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Denny mentioned, head formation is primarily related to protein though dissolved carbonation level will also have something to do with it. If you're adding a fixed amount of priming sugar to a single pressure vessel, as you dispense beer, the increased amount of headspace will allow some of the CO₂ to leave the beer, making it flatter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; want to be &quot;splashy&quot; in step 6.  Any time after fermentation has finished, you want to minimize the introduction of oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your step 2 is a sort of &quot;dry hopping&quot;, you'll want to do it after primary fermentation is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T17:11:58.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11003" CreationDate="2013-11-21T17:13:51.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbonating the beer from priming sugar takes at least a week, often closer to 2 to be ready. The problem here is that you were sampling a too early:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After another couple of days I was tapping off nice pints of dark ale&#xA;  under reasonable pressure (at least I thought it was reasonable&#xA;  pressure - it might not have been) but with no head. I'd only tap a&#xA;  max of 4 pints a day for my wife and me... perhaps 6 tops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After another 2 or 3 days I was beginning to get at least a thin layer of&#xA;  small bubbles sitting on top of the pint but nothing approaching a&#xA;  head, as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you see after you've waiting a few days more the head is slowly improving. It will continue to improve over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation from priming sugar requires that both the yeast have fermented the sugar (taking up to a week for regular beers) plus that the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; produced is then dissolved into the beer, which also takes a week or more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your next beer, a wheat, will have a better head, since wheat contains more protein, which contributes to the head formation. If you leave the beer at least a week before trying, ideally 2, then you'll get the head you're looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you start drinking the beer, the amount of carbonation will decrease as the barrel empties, so you should get hold of the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; bulbs to replenish the carbon dioxide in the barrel - it's there to push the beer out and to keep it carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T17:13:51.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11003" CreationDate="2013-11-21T17:45:27.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You definitely just need to wait longer. I always wait at least two weeks, more for higher gravity beers. Waiting will not only improve the quality of the head and carbonation level, but almost everything else about the beer will get better if you give it more time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A side note on your step 6, it's best to keep splashing to a minimum when racking after fermentation is complete. Pretty much the only time you want splashing is when transferring from the kettle to your fermenter on brew day, as you need to get oxygen into the wort so the yeast can get a healthy, vigorous fermentation going. Introducing oxygen after the yeast have done their thing can lead to oxidation and that wonderful wet cardboard taste / feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, oxidation can take a LONG time to show up in the flavor, so there's no need to be overly paranoid about it. It's mainly a concern with macrobrewed light lagers, where even the slightest fault is apparent because the beer itself has little to no flavor. I'm sure I've caused oxidation in my brews before, but they're usually too flavorful and consumed too quickly for the taste to appear. Keeping post-fermentation aeration to a minimum is just a good practice to follow in general, and especially if you're doing a big beer that will age a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6053" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T17:45:27.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11008" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-11-21T20:23:11.373" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-11-21T20:23:11.373" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T20:23:11.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11009" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-11-21T20:23:11.373" Score="0" Body="A vessel in which wort is boiled prior to fermentation." OwnerUserId="6062" LastEditorUserId="6062" LastEditDate="2013-11-21T22:12:45.950" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T22:12:45.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11010" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-11-22T16:58:51.127" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-11-22T16:58:51.127" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T16:58:51.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11011" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-11-22T16:58:51.127" Score="0" Body="Recirculating Infusion Mash System - a system for producing wort from grain using a pump to move the turbid mash liquid over a heat source until converted." OwnerUserId="6062" LastEditorUserId="6062" LastEditDate="2013-11-22T17:00:09.790" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T17:00:09.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11015" CreationDate="2013-11-23T04:08:25.120" Score="5" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a bucket on craigslist that was for fermentation. When I got it, it looks like a mess and has no labels on it. I want to be 100% it is safe to use for fermentation. How can I tell? Is there a particular plastic or symbol I am supposed to look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-25T05:21:13.513" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T21:47:04.303" Title="How to know if a bucket is good for fermentation" Tags="|beginner|bucket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11014" CreationDate="2013-11-23T10:34:03.403" Score="7" ViewCount="1588" Body="&lt;p&gt;My second beer brew has pretty much finished its primary fermentation. It started at 1.044 and is currently at 1.014... I don't expect it will go much further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having brewed numerous wines I understand that yeasts are capable of getting as high as 15% alcohol by volume before starting to be killed by the very alcohol they are making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By my reckoning this beer brew is currently sitting at approximately 4% but clearly there is quite a bit of sugar left in the brew for the FG to be over 1.014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading around, it appears that this is perfectly normal - pretty much all beers finish well above 1.000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... Why does fermentation stop before all the sugar is used up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, how do you determine a 'target' FG? Is this something I can do? At the moment I'm still doing extract brews but would like to move on to grains before too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastEditorUserId="6063" LastEditDate="2013-11-23T12:00:49.103" LastActivityDate="2013-11-23T19:14:28.083" Title="Why doesn't FG reach 1.000?" Tags="|specific-gravity|sugar|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11013" CreationDate="2013-11-23T15:09:01.010" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 80% of the sugars in the malt extract are fermentable, and about 20% are not. The main fermentables are maltose, maltriose, smaller amounts of sucrose, glucose and fructose. The remainder - about 20-25% are 20% unfermentable dextrins, the remaining 5% other less common sugars with variable fermentability by ale yeasts. Thus typical values are between 75-80% limit of fermentability for an All Grain malt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With tins of extract, &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7531/malt-extract-fermentability&quot;&gt;fermentability is usually much lower&lt;/a&gt;, since the producer is expecting you to add quantities of sucrose, which is 100% fermentable - so the overall fermentability ends up in the typical 70-80% range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as wort fermentability, different yeast strains show differing amounts of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Attenuation#Yeast_Strain_Differences_in_Attenuation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;attenuation&lt;/a&gt; - the percentage of total sugars fermented mainly influenced by their level of flocculation. So, the target FG is determined both by the fermentability of the wort and the attenuation of the yeast. The attenuation link goes into more detail about how you can find the limit of attenuation (wort fermentability) and the actual attenuation (governed by yeast strain, nutrients and environment). This can be used to determine the expected FG for the batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewery.org/brewery/library/EnzStuckFermAW1095.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wort Composition, Stuck Fermentations and High Gravity brewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7531/malt-extract-fermentability&quot;&gt;Malt Extract Fermentability&lt;/a&gt; - Homebrew SE&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Attenuation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Understanding Attenuation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2013-11-23T19:14:28.083" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11012" CreationDate="2013-11-23T16:44:14.833" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bucket is a mess you should be cautious about using it to ferment in - the main downside to buckets is that easy access to the internal surfaces makes it easy to scratch. Scratches are potentially difficult to clean, and so are a possible source of contamination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a an article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Identify-Food-Grade-Buckets&quot;&gt;identifying food grade buckets&lt;/a&gt;. tl;dr - look for the recycling symbol on the base - 2 is best, then 1,4 and 5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-11-23T16:44:14.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-23T19:17:55.870" Score="0" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, tomorrow is the day I am making my first batch of cider. I have 21kg of late season, fairly sharp dessert apples and will be following the following todo list. Is there anything obviously wrong with this method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sterilize Demijohns, tubing and a large bucket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash Apples&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Press Apples into large bucket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add Yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Syphon into demijohns&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air lock&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 WEEK LATER&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check acidity, add calcium carbonate if required&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 MONTH LATER&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottling. Add sugar to bottless. (Airing cupboard for 3-5 days, then garage)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T16:57:48.423" Title="Is this cider production method flawed?" Tags="|cider|first-time-brewer|brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11022" CreationDate="2013-11-25T09:27:19.983" Score="2" ViewCount="1374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my first cider yesterday. I am concerned that, because I haven't pasteurised I am running the risk of getting 12 litres of vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there I anything I can do, now fermentation has started, to prevent that and how can I keep tabs on progress during the fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T09:13:55.840" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T18:45:03.893" Title="Test for Acetobacter in Cider" Tags="|fermentation|cider|contamination|vinegar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-25T18:03:56.447" Score="1" ViewCount="3555" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night, I was trying to carry some bottles of my home-brewed beer in the basket of my bicycle. I only made it a few blocks from my home before I noticed that most of them were leaking. The caps were firmly on but most of the beer had escaped and made a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I prevent this from happening in the future?&lt;/strong&gt; This has happened once before with my own beer but never with store-bought bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of using bubble wrap or something to absorb the impact but I would like to see if anyone has any better ideas. Keep in mind that I am a brewing newbie so I don't know if the caps are on tightly enough, or if the beer is under too much pressure, or if there is some other problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I am using some average-looking glass bottles that I bought from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sanfranciscobrewcraft.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewcraft&lt;/a&gt; in San Francisco. They are not twist-off bottles. I am using a wing capper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2377" LastEditorUserId="2377" LastEditDate="2013-11-27T19:52:15.570" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T20:26:08.603" Title="How can I prevent a bottle from leaking when it is transported or shaken?" Tags="|beer|bottling|capping|transport|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13162" CreationDate="2013-11-25T18:12:03.770" Score="6" ViewCount="47311" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my country obtaining a bottle of applejack is about impossible, while cider slowly gains some foothold. I have managed to obtain a few liters of apple cider for reasonable price and happen to have a decent quality freezer. I'd like to use freeze-concentration to produce some applejack from it, to have a glass of the legendary drink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the ground theory of how that process is supposed to work, but I don't know any details. What is the right temperature? What kind of container should I use? Should it be covered/airtight to prevent alcohol evaporation? How much ice should I allow to form before removing it? Any special techniques of removing the ice? Also, I heard some account that you keep the ice and discard the liquid - is there any truth to that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6070" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2013-11-25T22:12:26.743" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T13:16:52.817" Title="How do I use freeze distillation to turn cider into applejack?" Tags="|cider|frozen|distillation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11018" CreationDate="2013-11-25T19:46:14.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Were you using plastic pet bottles? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use soda bottles some of them have a blue plastic seal under the cap which acts like a washer when you screw the cap down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cap is old the plastic seal may not be effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is that some plastic bottles do not use the blue plastic seal so you have to be careful as the what bottles go with what lids. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I have found with my pet bottles compared to soda bottles I have bought from the supermarket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ADDED since the original question added detail about glass bottle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be possible that the bottles are over carbonated and the transportation is the same as shaking them up, causing pressure in the bottle that is escaping through the cap. If the cap didn't leak then there may have been a bottle bomb if this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What were their reactions when you opened them when you arrived at your destination? Did they fizz over like a coke that has been shaken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-27T20:19:17.043" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T20:19:17.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11018" CreationDate="2013-11-25T20:28:23.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're not getting a good seal on the caps. Do you notice carb loss over time? Do they leak when you simply tip them upside down? If so, it could be any number of things: the capper, your technique or the bottle itself (e.g. twist off rather than pry-off). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3709" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T20:28:23.167" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11017" CreationDate="2013-11-25T20:37:21.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The test for acetobacter is simple: smell whatever's coming out of the airlock on your fermenter. If it smells like vinegar, you've got bacterial contamination [&quot;an infection&quot;] :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a fermentation in progress, there's only a couple of options. You could pasteurize the whole batch, which would kill off bacteria as well as the yeast, so you'd have to repitch your yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is to dissolve some campden tablets into your cider. If you pitched a quality, healthy yeast, they won't be affected by the increased sulfite concentration but it will inhibit bacteria and wild yeast growth. If you take this route and find fermentation stops, just give it some time and repitch, as the sulfites from the campden will dissipate with time. Campden tabs are used all the time in wine and cider making to prevent infection without having to boil/pasteurize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6053" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T09:14:57.160" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T09:14:57.160" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11019" CreationDate="2013-11-25T22:18:18.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process of freeze distillation exploits the difference in freezing points of water and ethanol. Wikipedia has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fractional_freezing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;good article&lt;/a&gt; that explains the process. The short explanation is that the frozen portion of the liquid has a lower concentration of alcohol than the liquid portion. By removing the ice, you can thereby increase the concentration of alcohol in cider. You can repeat the process using progressively lower temperatures to produce a higher alcohol beverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the wikipedia article warns that freeze distillation can increase methanol levels to a dangerous degree. Methanol is a nerve toxin that can permanently damage the optic nerve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T22:18:18.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11025" CreationDate="2013-11-26T03:26:47.630" Score="1" ViewCount="2156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just kegged my stout. The fridge currently isn't on, should be powered tomorrow. I've put the co2 up to 25psi to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tank it's still connected and open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What temp should I set the fridge too? Do I leave the co2 connected? At what pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm totally new to all of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3917" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T03:55:16.853" Title="properly carbonating my Irish stout" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11024" CreationDate="2013-11-26T03:55:16.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&lt;/a&gt; is my go-to carbonation/temp/pressure table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set to the appropriate pressure for the carbonation level appropriate (or desired) based on style, leave the pressure on, and let set for a few days. Once carbonated, drop the pressure down to something to maintain headspace-pressure, and/or use the appropriate line diameter and length to drop the pressure from the keg to the tap down to a small few PSI. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.draughtquality.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.draughtquality.org/&lt;/a&gt; is a great resource for understanding how to maintain a proper draft beer system; it's mostly for pubs, but the core ideas and lessons are still quite suitable for a home draft system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T03:55:16.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11027" CreationDate="2013-11-26T06:33:53.157" Score="2" ViewCount="1925" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found an old Mr Beer kit that had never been used. The malt and yeast that came with the kit had expired, so I bought replacements. I followed the directions in the booklet, and put the fermenter in a cabinet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I checked a few hours later, a small amount of liquid, maybe half an ounce, was coating the bottom of my cabinet. I put the fermenter on a rimmed cookie sheet, and it is still leaking very slowly, less than an ounce a day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just toss it? Wait until bottling and see if it's bad? Should I try to fix it somehow? The leak is very slow, so it's hard to tell where it's coming from, and I don't want to mess with it too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6071" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T00:39:14.140" Title="Mr Beer Fermentor Leaking" Tags="|fermentation|spoilage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11026" CreationDate="2013-11-26T19:52:11.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leave it:&lt;/strong&gt; You have already put the effort in to make the brew so I would say just leave it until it is ready to bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Buy a second fermenter:&lt;/strong&gt; then transfer the remaining beer to it after it has been cleaned and sterilized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fix the leak:&lt;/strong&gt; Depending on the size of the leak you could try to stem the flow with either vasonline, tape it up, use silicone (you would need to check the chemicals and make sure it is food safe), or try to plastic weld it with a soldering iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was me I would leave it as it will only be 1 week or so in the fermenter so you shouldn't loose too much. If you find that you are then buy another fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T22:00:39.590" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T22:00:39.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11026" CreationDate="2013-11-27T00:39:14.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original Mr Beer has holes in the top half that let air out, there was no airlock. So you could have filled it higher than designed and with a vigorous fermentation some yeast leaked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tape paper towels to the outside to see where the leak is, but if it's on top then it may be by design. if not, as suggested use &quot;food grade&quot; silicone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mr. Beer is a great two gallon fermenter. I love small batch beer, because you can brew 5 gallons quicker in your kitchen and requires far less equipment. The spigot is very convenient. I heard you can buy them for 10 dollars on the mister beer site, but they have airlocks now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun. Check out Brooklyn Brewshops &quot;beer making book&quot; they have one gallon recipes you can double for the mr beer fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2119" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T00:39:14.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-27T02:18:14.103" Score="8" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a pomander inspired wit beer for the holidays. It is currently in primary. Since my wife just had gall badder surgery, she is avoiding alcohol for a little while and asked if I could brew her a NA.  I like a good challenge. I am thinking of halving the wit, one wit and the other witout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My searches for NA revealed a couple methods that I will not be able to enact without the required equipment. I would need a really fine filter or the ability to pressurize the beer. That leaves the boil off option. Reading up on results others have experienced it sounds like a lot of hop aroma flashes off and sweetness comes out and the bitterness is altered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if I could make a hop tea, match the hop profile and IBU in sterilized water to correct the changes. After the boil off, top up with the tea and bottle. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6074" LastEditorUserId="6074" LastEditDate="2013-11-30T06:02:13.647" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T15:59:43.357" Title="Need a non-alcohol brew without the sacrifices. (besides the obvious)" Tags="|techniques|flavor|aroma|alcohol-content|bittering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-27T07:46:57.177" Score="1" ViewCount="2206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing rice wine using baker's yeast. Can i use baker's yeast for brewing rice wine? Will it affect to the quality of wine? I want to also know, can it get over fermented? What happens during over fermentation? Will it affect to the alcohol content?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6075" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2013-11-27T19:50:07.403" LastActivityDate="2017-01-22T08:19:00.837" Title="Making rice wine" Tags="|fermentation|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11029" CreationDate="2013-11-27T08:34:06.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hop tea may work. However, the bitterness extracted from hops at pH &gt; 6 becomes progressively harsher with higher pH. Thus, to get a more rounded bitterness, you should not boil in plain water, which has a pH &gt; 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try boiling the hops in a little of the fermented beer, since this will have pH in the ball park of what you need. (Fermented beer is typically around 4.3-4.5pH). You could then treat this as regular hop additions - boil for 45 mins for bittering, 30-15 mins for flavor and 5-0 mins or less for aroma. The beer pH is a little low - if you dilute with a small amount of water to get in the range 5.0-5.5 that would be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/How_pH_affects_brewing#Hop_utilization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hop Utilization and pH&lt;/a&gt; - Brewkaiser.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T08:34:06.473" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11034" CreationDate="2013-11-27T16:41:17.407" Score="1" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;This one has me questioning what I &lt;em&gt;thought&lt;/em&gt; I knew.  Brewed a &quot;mocha stout&quot; 4 days ago:&#xA;Steeped:&#xA; - .5lb chocolate malt&#xA; - .375lb roasted barley&#xA;For boil, added:&#xA; - 6lb DME (dark)&#xA; - 1lb lactose&#xA;At flameout, added:&#xA; - ~8oz cocoa powder&#xA; - 1qt brewed coffee&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem #1 is that I broke my hydrometer, so did NOT get an OG.  Cooled wort to 70F, then pitched two packs of Wyeast Irish Ale 1084.  (I did not use starter because I had the yeast for a different brew in there.)  Sealed the brew bucket and inserted airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw very little activity in the airlock, which didn't concern me that much.  Today, I opened the bucket to rack to secondary.  There was no krausen.  None.  That's a first for me, but didn't bother me.  Gravity was 1.020, which is what my calculated target gravity was to be.  Racked it to the secondary and discovered that there was nearly NO cake!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question then is, is it possible that fermentation occurred fine without there being much cake at all, and no krausen?  Looks, smells, and tastes pretty much as expected, just surprised by the lack of what I've come to know as my tell-tale signs of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3591" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T21:44:22.687" Title="Is fermentation 'done' even without there being cake?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|krausen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11029" CreationDate="2013-11-27T16:49:39.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot make a truly alcohol free beer.  The best commercial brewers can do is get it down to about .5% ABV.  At home, most report that about 1.5% ABV can be achieved with boiloff.  However, it is reported to have a severely negative impact on flavor.  Having tried this, I would advise you not to waste your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bitterness is concentrated, not reduced.  However, since the malt is also concentrated, it makes the bittering sometimes (not always) appear less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2013-11-27T19:11:27.393" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T19:11:27.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11032" CreationDate="2013-11-27T16:50:41.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the gravity has dropped, you had fermentation.  So, the answer to your question is yes, it's possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T16:50:41.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11018" CreationDate="2013-11-27T20:26:08.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say the caps were &quot;firmly on&quot;.  No offense, but if they're leaking the caps weren't fully sealed.  Possible culprits could be the bottles or caps you use, your capper, or your technique.  we need to know more about what you do and how you do it to narrow that list down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T20:26:08.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11032" CreationDate="2013-11-27T21:44:22.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Krausen itself will definitely fall back into the beer once fermentation finishes; you should see some residue/evidence, but you should only really &lt;em&gt;see&lt;/em&gt; krausen while it's actively fermenting (&quot;high krausen&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trub/cake consists of a number of things: coagulated proteins, hop residue, other solids, flocculated yeast. 1084 is listed as a &quot;medium&quot; flocculator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to guess it's some combination of: not a whole lot of residual solid materials to drop out of suspension in the first place, and fermentation not really being &lt;em&gt;fully&lt;/em&gt; complete after only 4 days, especially with a medium-flocc. yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sufficient time and low temp (&quot;cold crashing&quot;) are things people do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T21:44:22.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-28T11:49:19.613" Score="2" ViewCount="1004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little confused about this and can't find an answer that satisfies my curiosity... I've found a helpful thread (&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4976/what-does-high-attentuation-actually-mean-in-terms-of-types-of-sugar-fermented&quot;&gt;What does high attentuation actually mean in terms of types of sugar fermented?&lt;/a&gt;) but it doesn't really sort me out. Perhaps someone can help break it down for a noob... :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that your wort will contain a certain amount of fermentable sugars, and some unfermentable. I believe this to be around 60%-70% (depending on your grain choice, mash temperature, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then we have yeast attenuation rates, which appear to be anything around 60%-85% depending on the strain, but this appears to be a mechanism for comparing different yeast types in a 100% fermentable sugar solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that any particular yeast can only ferment, say, 75% of the fermentable sugars? So somewhere around 50% of the actual sugars in the wort will be converted to alcohol?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure this can't be the case and I must be missing something important here... what is the importance of understanding yeast attenuation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to buy BeerSmith at some point but I'm just at the beginning of the road at the moment so I'd like to get my head around the entire process as much as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T22:06:36.360" Title="Yeast attenuation and fermentable sugars" Tags="|yeast|sugar|attenuation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11037" CreationDate="2013-11-28T11:55:00.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.danstaryeast.com/articles/attenuation-figures&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; from Danstar on yeast attenuation and how it's measured. It's not using 100% fermentable wort, although according to the article there is no industry standard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T11:55:00.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5906" CreationDate="2013-11-28T13:50:44.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just seen an old monks recipe that in contrary to modern methods boils the malt and then adds the hops later to boil again, does this method release unwanted flavours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6078" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T13:50:44.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11037" CreationDate="2013-11-28T17:38:39.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;what is the importance of understanding yeast attenuation?&quot;....Yeast attenuation is determined by the yeast lab under laboratory conditions, and it is only a way of comparing one yeast relative to another using the same wort.  You may or may not achieve the attenuation that is listed for the yeast.  It may be less, it may be greater than listed.  That depends on the fermentability of &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2013-12-31T22:06:36.360" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T22:06:36.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11042" CreationDate="2013-11-29T00:42:02.073" Score="6" ViewCount="2324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tried to clean out a 6.5 gallon carboy that I had used for primary fermentation. First, I hit it with hot water and dumped it out. Then, I put about a half-gallon of hot water with some dish soap. No more than five seconds after I began scrubbing the carboy with an angled brush, there was a loud explosion, and the carboy broke into four pieces in the sink. The temperature of the beer was around 60°F, and the temperature of the water was about 125°F. What, if anything, did I do wrong? Was it just a bad carboy or did I commit a fundamental mistake? What is the proper way to clean a glass carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3448" LastEditorUserId="3448" LastEditDate="2013-11-29T05:02:43.720" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T22:18:35.593" Title="carboy exploded while cleaning" Tags="|carboy|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11041" CreationDate="2013-11-29T01:08:32.987" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't use hot water to clean glass carboys. The glass is subject to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_shock&quot;&gt;thermal shock&lt;/a&gt; when some of it is heated while the rest remains cool. Count yourself lucky that you escaped without &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewing.lustreking.com/articles/brokencarboys.html&quot;&gt;injury&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T01:08:32.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11041" CreationDate="2013-11-29T01:34:54.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that any rapid change in temperature can explode glass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same can happen to a drinking glass that you pull out of a hot dishwasher then add cold beer. It can crack and possibly explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not saying that all glass does this but in some cases it can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T01:34:54.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2013-11-30T20:59:46.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend who made a kick ass imperial cider told me that he baked about 5 pounds of apple slices in the oven, then immediately put them in the freezer for 24 hours.  Then plopped them in the secondary for 2-3 more weeks.  It turned out awesome!&#xA;So now I'm going that route. Although I'm not making a cider, I needed to add about 1.5 pounds of apples to my Chai Beer.  So I'm doing it this way.  It's called &quot;Make Them Chai Slowly&quot;....yeah, a little wordy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6081" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T20:59:46.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2013-12-01T05:14:31.147" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once heard a name for this called &quot;drakas&quot;(spelling). As told it was a Norse drink made by placing a bowl of honey mead outside overnight.  In the morning, chip off the ice and repeat a few times untill a thick drink was the result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6084" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T05:14:31.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-01T16:03:06.077" Score="2" ViewCount="2106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have kegged my last two batches...an IPA and a Stout. First batch was sanitized with Star-San. I experienced very uncomfortable side effects: headaches, muscle aches, and a sense of fatigue. So for the stout, I sanitized everything using bleach. Experienced the exact same side effects! The only constant has been the co2 used. How is it possible two different brews would elicit the same very uncomfortable side effects? I am paranoid about brewing again. Thanks, Fred&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6085" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T21:54:40.703" Title="Side effects of home brew" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2227" CreationDate="2013-12-02T03:50:23.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once left a red ale in a glass carboy for almost a year. My girlfriend thought it was ruined, but I kept the airlock full.... it came out great, clear and mellow. Beer I would have paid money for....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6086" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T03:50:23.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-02T08:55:30.430" Score="1" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used both homebrew kits before and had no problems... &#xA;But used tap water and granulated sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coopers lager, wilcos home wine kit ... &#xA;Both worked before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both brews 25℃ and stored at &#xA;Temperature 21℃+ minimum&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I just lost a brew of coopers lager using bottled spring water and brewing sugar, the initial fermentation was a sudden frothy explosion but after cleaning the fermenter lidd and putting a clean bubbler on there was no further fermentation... &#xA;Stored the wort and just one day of fermentation.&#xA;So unable to find a answer other than some contamination I threw the wort away. :( &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I stetalised everything with thin bleach and rinsed clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started a red home wine this time. &#xA;But used slightly less sugar as the wine was just a bit sweet and quite high alcohol level, but got much better after a few weeks ... &#xA;Did use granulated sugar but used brewer's sugar this time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the same bottled water and this morning no fermentation has started . &#xA;Been 12 hours now and supposedly a rapid fermentation.&#xA;It is possible that the water is preventing the yeast from working so was contemplating making up a fresh yeast with tap water and adding this to the fermenter once the yeast has got started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not using bottled water again if it's causing these problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to this, our tap water is very hard, just wanted to make a crisp clear drink with less hard water taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts anyone ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6087" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T16:02:03.623" Title="spring water fermentation stoped" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11048" CreationDate="2013-12-02T16:02:03.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use bottled water frequently without any problems, so I don't think that's your problem. When you say fermentation stopped, are you basing that on a gravity reading or just observation?  Fermentation can be continuing even if it doesn't appear that it is.  The only way to know for sure is to take a gravity reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T16:02:03.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-02T23:28:07.393" Score="2" ViewCount="2649" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soooo... I'm totally a newbie here and this is my first batch of cider.  I have a fermentation bucket with an airlock.  I used Lalvin dried wine yeast.  I made my cider about a month ago using apples.  Simmered them on the stove (after juicing them) and then put it all together.  I also added sugar to the mix per one recipe to raise the alcohol content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did NOT get a hydrometer until week 2 so I had no base measurement there.  At week 2 it was ... ummm... 1.031.  Week 3 was 1.01.  Week 4 (this past weekend) it was a little less than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At week 3 it tasted like decent tasting red wine - slightly sweet.  Week 4 it tastes like plain red wine - sharp in my taste but I don't really like wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So - am I screwed?  Or, can I just let it continue to sit and will it eventually start tasting like cider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6090" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T17:23:17.203" Title="My cider tastes like red wine!" Tags="|cider|wine|brewing|taste|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11050" CreationDate="2013-12-03T00:16:13.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that it will change from wine taste to cider taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done the same thing using Lalvin EC1118 yeast which turned out to taste like wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is happening is the yeast had eaten all of the sugars in the cider giving it a higher alcohol content and the wine taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you used a different yeast then some of the sugars would have been left giving it a sweeter cider flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure someone like Denny will give you a better explanation of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is :-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either drink it like wine. Mix it with something like lemonade. Or back sweeten it with some flavors of your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T00:16:13.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11050" CreationDate="2013-12-03T00:44:49.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's tasting like wine because there are almost no sugars left in the cider. With no sugar, you really notice the acidity in cider which makes it taste more like wine. (I would say it's more like white wine than, red, but that's subjective).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try sweetening the it to see if that makes it taste more like cider, and less like wine. Buy a can of apple juice concentrate and let it thaw. Keep it in the fridge in a sealed container. Put an ounce or so in the bottom of your glass before pouring the cider from the bottle. You can tune the amount of concentrate to your taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T00:44:49.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-03T12:24:28.600" Score="2" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always thought that it was a great beer to cellar for a year or more. I have a full keg and about a case of bottles of it on hand though. Wheat tells me it doesn't age well. Decent amount of alcohol, melanoidins, and a reference to an optional 'sherry' character from the BJCP guidelines tells me it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T22:30:57.443" Title="Is Weizenbock a good style to cellar?" Tags="|cellaring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11050" CreationDate="2013-12-03T13:30:25.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry apple cider usually takes several months to a year in the bottle to smooth out. I would not concern myself much with how it tasted at 4 weeks. If you want a sweeter cider that is ready to drink in 4-5 weeks, take a look at my answer in this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3858/sweet-sparkling-cider-without-pasteurizing-sulphites-or-lactose/&quot;&gt;Sweet sparkling cider without pasteurizing, sulphites or lactose&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Make a &quot;graff&quot; which is a malted cider. Get 2lb of dry light malt&#xA;  extract, boil it with an ounce of hops for 30 minutes max in about a&#xA;  gal of water. Pour 3-4 gal of generic apple juice (preservative free&#xA;  ideally) into a carboy, pour the hot wort on top. When it's cooled&#xA;  down a bit, pour in a packet of ale yeast like US-05.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bottle it after 3-4 weeks on primary, no need for secondary. After&#xA;  aging in the bottles for about 3-4 weeks, you'll have a delicious&#xA;  cider that has a &quot;sweet&quot; taste (the ale yeast won't ferment out all&#xA;  the sugars from the malt extract - mine stopped at 1.010)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I made a batch in January and by St. Patrick's Day it was totally&#xA;  ready and people drank the crap outa it. Good stuff. You don't get a&#xA;  &quot;beer&quot; taste from it at all, it really just makes the cider sweet, not&#xA;  so boozy, and ready to drink MUUUCH quicker than straight appelwine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottle your existing cider  and hide it in a closet while you make the &quot;Graff&quot; from above. Forget about it for at least 8 months, then start sampling it. You'll be glad you did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T13:30:25.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2109" CreationDate="2013-12-04T02:01:45.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i also have a malt allergy. unfortunately since malt is a process, it seems malt-free beer would essentially be much like hard ciders and not considered &quot;beer&quot;.  Perhaps a hard cider using hop that tastes closer to beer than hard cider could be a solution for those like us, who have malt allergies and want to drink beer! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6094" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T02:01:45.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="325" CreationDate="2013-12-04T03:03:53.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pectin enzyme will help eliminate a haze that normal finings will not remove. Generally, its added prior to pitching the yeast, up to 24 hours before. My ciders are crystal clear.  I believe you may be able to add it post fermentation, haze won't hurt the cider, just won't be as pretty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T03:03:53.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11053" CreationDate="2013-12-04T22:30:57.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are the general criteria I use when determining if I should cellar a beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alcohol: The higher the alcohol content the better results from cellaring. A Weizenbock would be fine in this case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flavor: Is there a big aggressive flavor up front that ruins all the other flavor? A good example is an IPA like Dogfish 120, when the aggressive sweetness dies down over time. I am not sure about a Weizenbock in this respect. Maybe if there is a heavy banana flavor it will be more balanced as the esters degrade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Body: Generally, I find a heavier bodied beer ages better. I am sure there is some chemistry behind this, say esters degrading or dextrin doing whatever dextrin does. That said, many bocks are not super heavy-bodied but do well with 1-2 years of aging.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that is not a yes/no answer but I hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2680" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T22:30:57.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2109" CreationDate="2013-12-04T23:37:21.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought the definition of beer was pretty much &quot;fermented malt water&quot;. If you ferment grapes with hops, it's still not beer. If you distill from grains, it's not beer either. Beer without malt sounds like an oxymoron to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;produced by the saccharification of starch and fermentation&quot;, not necessarily from malted grains. Guess you could try rice beer, corn beer, or even potato beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T23:37:21.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11177" CreationDate="2013-12-05T13:54:16.393" Score="3" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should I use to top off my carboy of blueberry wine?  I don't want to add water if I can help it.  Adding more juice will just start fermenting again.  Any suggestions on an acceptable wine to add?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6098" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T23:59:37.203" Title="what to use to top off blueberry wine?" Tags="|wine|fruit|aging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11581" CreationDate="2013-12-05T23:41:36.600" Score="4" ViewCount="3106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspired by Ron's post &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11059/what-to-use-to-top-off-blueberry-wine&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, I'm wondering how necessary it is to top off a carboy of wine that is aging.  I have 5 containers of mead/wine right now and they all have headspace.  Not a ton but they definitely are not full to the neck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine the answer has to do with whether or not/how often you open the container to take samples.  I don't think I've ever had any major issues related to headspace in my beer/cider but I don't have as much experience with wine.  I imagine if it was an issue I'd already be in trouble since this mead has been in there for a year now (as of this past Monday).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T16:49:37.127" Title="Is it necessary to top off wine in a carboy?" Tags="|wine|mead|aging|headspace|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-06T01:51:33.963" Score="2" ViewCount="945" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in South Korea and had to buy a 20lbs CO2 becuase they would not service my american 5lbs tank. Unfortunately, my current CO2 regulator will not fit on the korean tank. I assume it is becuase of a metric-standard conversion issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The regulator I own is the following: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0026K6OY8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Commercial-Grade-Double-Gauge-Regulator/dp/B0026K6OY8/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=home-garden&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1386293625&amp;amp;sr=1-2-fkmr0&amp;amp;keywords=metric+co2+regulator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to just bite the bullet and buy a korean (metric) regulator or is there an adapter that I could buy? Also, does anybody know where I could purchase either of these items? Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Spasm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6102" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T13:19:17.017" Title="My Regulator will not fit my CO2 tank" Tags="|carbonation|co2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11029" CreationDate="2013-12-06T07:55:24.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you don't necessarily need the beer to be completely non-alcoholic, perhaps you could consider brewing an small (session) beer instead? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mashing at the higher end, perhaps with some flavourful caramel malts, wheat or rye for extra body and an small grain bill should give you a head start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some experiences with second (and third) runnings from my beers and the results was not that bad, a little extra body and they would have been great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T07:55:24.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-06T17:05:29.050" Score="0" ViewCount="1789" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will Yuengling bottles work well to bottle? I don't care about the label, just that the bottle is strong and will take a non twist-off cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6106" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T05:32:29.017" Title="Yuengling Bottles for Homebrew?" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11064" CreationDate="2013-12-06T17:17:30.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yuengling bottles will work fine. I'm not sure exactly what you mean by &quot;will take a non twist-off cap&quot; Because if your using a typical capper you shouldn't be capping on twist-off bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One issue with Yuengling is that their bottles are often green, and if you don't keep them clear of the light once filled you will easily get skunky beer. Just something to keep in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like I misread the question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding capping on bottles that &lt;em&gt;DO&lt;/em&gt; have twist off tops - It works best if you use a bench capper. A normal hand capper can easily break the glass off the top of the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will be more subject to leaks, but it's not impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastEditorUserId="3076" LastEditDate="2013-12-06T20:50:24.970" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T20:50:24.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11064" CreationDate="2013-12-06T19:10:18.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I ran out of bottles a few brews ago, I decided to use a couple of Yuengling bottles to have somewhere to put the last 24 ounces of beer. I didn't really care if they didn't work out, but I have to say they were even bigger failures than I'd imagined. The twist-top grooves on the bottles didn't allow for a satisfactory seal, and they both ended up popping partly off when secondary fermentation kicked in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lesson learned: avoid using them if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4001" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T19:10:18.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-06T20:43:44.820" Score="1" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to make a dry amber ale beer that is low in alcohol, but am thinking about adding a hint of cherry flavor to it. I am unsure if I should use a cherry extract or real cherries. If I use real cherries should I use sweet cherries or tart? Also I want to maintain the dryness of the beer. the recipe I am using is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3lb muntons amber DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1lb briess golden light DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safale US-05&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some roasted barley for color &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and some cara belgian for light caramel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have not decided on the hops - maybe some Perle, or Willamette.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6108" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-12-08T13:51:03.607" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T20:58:25.143" Title="amber ale/cherry" Tags="|fruit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11064" CreationDate="2013-12-07T05:32:29.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest against using a Yuengling bottle for two reasons.  First, it's twist off.  Second, it's green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the first point; from my understanding when you use a traditional homebrew capper it will not seal a twist off bottle well.  It ends up letting air in which oxygenates the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second point, light entering bottles reacts with compounds in the hops and creates a &quot;skunked&quot; beer.  A darker bottle will block more light than a lighter bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I think it really depends on the style of beer being made.  If you are brewing a light and/or hoppy beer that should be consumed relatively soon the bottle would have less of an affect on the finished product than a big malt bomb that you would leave in the bottle for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still don't think I would risk the twist offs though because I'd be worried about not having a good enough seal and letting all of the carbonation out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T05:32:29.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11070" CreationDate="2013-12-07T12:45:29.057" Score="2" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just about to try my first all grain brew this weekend... Slightly nervous :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to make the Black Sheep Ale recipe available from the hop and grain database... Being in Yorkshire it seems appropriate and I think it should suit my water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brew details are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch Size: 21.00 L &#xA;Boil Size: 29.68 L&#xA;Estimated OG: 1.046 SG&#xA;Estimated Color: 28.2 EBC&#xA;Estimated IBU: 35.9 IBU&#xA;Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %&#xA;Boil Time: 90 Minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than an ingredients list this is the only information provided by the recipe... so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main question at this point is, out of the 29.68 litre boil size, how much do I mash with? And how much do I sparge with? Do I just work it out if a 1.5qt to 1lb ratio (or similar)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also... I'm going for a 66C single temperature mash... Is that appropriate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume, also, that if I boil 29.68 litres for 90 minutes I will arrive at a final volume of 21 litres?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastActivityDate="2013-12-08T13:46:45.697" Title="How much of given boil volume should be used for mash and sparge?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|mash-volume|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11069" CreationDate="2013-12-07T14:40:27.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can work out the mash volume based on a 1.5 qt/lb ratio, sure. Then use the remainder of the volume for sparge. What you'll see after doing that a bunch is that you're going to use basically half the volume for mash, and half for sparge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;66C is a reasonable &quot;middle of the road&quot; single-infusion mash temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reasonable boil-off estimate is 10%/hour … ~30L is a bit much for a 21L post-boil target, even with a 90 minute boil. Though, you'll also need to factor equipment losses/deadspace into the volumes. And it won't be as important for this recipe, but on hop-heavy ales, the hops themselves can absorb a good deal of wort. It's always better to have a bit too much than not enough; I'd use the volumes you've indicated and keep notes to refine your volumes in future batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T14:40:27.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11069" CreationDate="2013-12-08T13:46:45.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All grain brewing is a bit like fingerprints - everyone's is different, and it's usual to do a few batches to &quot;dial in&quot; your equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing software can help you calculate grain absorption and water needed for mash thickness. For your first brew, I would aim less than 30l pre-boil - probably closer to 27l. You can always add more water if you boil off too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-12-08T13:46:45.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2013-12-08T14:53:55.967" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aguardente de mel is what we call it in portuguese... Literal translation to english is Honey's burning water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6113" LastActivityDate="2013-12-08T14:53:55.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11423" CreationDate="2013-12-09T01:16:50.633" Score="0" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a swamp cooler guy, and this is my first winter brewing; therefore, I will need some water heaters and water pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;I have plastic swamp coolers -- no burning plastic&#xA;Swamps are filled with around 5 gallons&#xA;For vacations and when I'm not home, I cannot have any fire hazard or other safety problem&#xA;The heater must be able to heat to the specified temperature, within a range of 1-2 F&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: as per the comments, I have purchased Fermwraps and used them in combination with the Johnson digital controllers. However, I will purchase a water heater soon to compare the two and answer this question when possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T05:35:33.777" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T00:49:49.017" Title="What is the Best Water Heater and Pump to Use in my Plastic Swamp Cooler (for my Requirements)?" Tags="|temperature-control|swamp-cooler|water-heater|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-09T14:01:11.413" Score="0" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read elsewhere that this shouldn't be too bad so I guess I'm just after reassurance that something isn't broken...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did my first AG brew on Saturday evening (Black Sheep Ale from the Hop and Grain database). Foolishly I started late and didn't get it finished until 4am but I work well at that time of the day/night so that wasn't so bad... lesson learnt, however :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I did...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saturday morning, I got my yeast (Danstar Windsor 11g dried) going in a splash of high-gravity wort in the morning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very late Saturday night, by the time my wort was ready for pitching it was at 30C/86F and 1.058 (temp adjusted). I really couldn't wait any longer for the wort to chill - it was getting very late!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I warmed the starter up to wort temp by submerging the sanitised container in the wort and pitched it. The starter had been going for about 18 hours prior to pitching.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sunday morning, about 11am, it was bubbling vigourously at 22C/72F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monday, about 1pm, I have just checked the fermentation and it has all but stopped. The temperature is about 17C/63F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, by my reckoning, and not including the yeast starter headstart, it's been fermenting for somewhere between 24 and 30 hours. This is, by a long way, the shortest fermentation I've experienced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for a little advice about how to proceed - I haven't checked the gravity yet - I don't want to open the bucket just yet... just wondering if there's anything I should do before breaking the seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T00:56:18.970" Title="My first AG brew finished fermenting in a day! Is that right?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11074" CreationDate="2013-12-09T14:58:30.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You pitched really warm - 30&amp;deg;C is well above what is recommended - you can expect a lot of fruitiness and maybe some stronger alcohol flavors.  It takes many hours for 20 liters of beer to drop to ambient temps, plus as the yeast get started, they create heat, holding the temperature where it is or raising it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature falling to 17&amp;deg;C could mean one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fermentation really is complete - you can only know this by taking a SG reading&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the drop in temperature caused the yeast to drop out and stop working. Again, the SG reading will show if this is the case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, I would rouse the yeast and just wait a few days before taking a reading. If you can raise the ambient temp closer to 19&amp;deg;C that would be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T14:58:30.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11061" CreationDate="2013-12-09T22:07:49.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting metric to imperial is hard to find at the best of times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding one for a CO2 connector is going to be very unlikely.&#xA;As gas connections are normally a speciality thread (often the opposite direction thread, turn clockwise to undo. This is so idiots don't try to screw a bolt in or something) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a quick google to find the thread specs, and then google for a converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will probably be easer (and possibly cheaper actually) if you just buy a new regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wont have to deal with the extra thread seals etc that way as well &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6041" LastEditorUserId="6041" LastEditDate="2013-12-09T22:19:55.477" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T22:19:55.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="726" CreationDate="2013-12-09T22:33:50.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nitrous oxide does cause your tongue to become slightly numb (Nitrous is used in larger quantities as a anesthetic , so that makes sense) Therefore gives a smoother mouth feel. Also like Nitrogen (or Argon) it comes out of solution slower than CO2. This gives smaller, smoother bubbles in the head. I think Guinness uses Argon to get this effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For small batches you can use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.to/1bsZy2P&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;isi whip&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UjMq6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;isiwhip&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(What they use in star bucks to whip cream).&#xA;Which uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.to/1d5yA0k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;small canisters of Nitrous oxide&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;(See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.molecularrecipes.com/techniques/isi-whip-must-have-tool-modernist-cuisine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for more things you can do with an isi whip)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also do this on a large scale with a larger tank of Nitrous oxide.&#xA;How ever you need to provide documentation to show what you are going to use it for.&#xA;(I.e., you are a medical practice, you use Nitrous for drag racing, you are a large bakery etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So unless you can ask a friendly petrol head to borrow some (make sure it is food grade though), it will probably be difficult to do more than one litre (isi whip) without going up to commercial scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6041" LastEditorUserId="6041" LastEditDate="2013-12-09T22:41:33.443" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T22:41:33.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11079" CreationDate="2013-12-09T23:43:29.860" Score="3" ViewCount="2454" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hope this doesn't sound like too daft a question... but I'm English and a noob so please humour me :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I am reading recipes, brewing instructions, calculations, etc. from American documentation and they are referring to &quot;gallons&quot; are these imperial gallons or US gallons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, 1 gallon = 4.5 litres. Google tells me that 1 US gallon = 3.8 litres. Quite a difference. Clearly, since we both split gallons into the same number of quarts and pints, this would affect the measurement of those too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this affects pretty much everything I need to learn, I am asking specifically because of point 14 at the bottom of Palmer's page here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter18-6.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter18-6.html&lt;/a&gt; - using US gallons in this calculation gives my first every AG brew an extraction efficiency factor of 30 (yay!) whereas using imperial gallons gives me 25 (boo!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2013-12-10T20:11:41.730" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T20:11:41.730" Title="Litres / Gallons conversion" Tags="|first-time-brewer|efficiency|conversion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11078" CreationDate="2013-12-09T23:51:14.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Palmer is referring to U.S. customary measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One U.S. gallon is 3.79 liters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One liter is 0.26 U.S. gallons, or 1.05 U.S. quarts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the U.S. customary measurement system-impaired (i.e., the whole world except the U.S and maybe parts of the U.K.), a U.S. quart is slightly smaller than a liter, and there are two 8-ounce cups in a pint, two 16-ounce pints in a quart, and four 32-ounce quarts in a U.S. gallon.  Thus, a gallon is 128 ounces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because many U.S. recipes call for five-gallon batches, you should know that 19 liters = five U.S. gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using extraction efficiency formulas, remember that one point per pound per gallon (ppg) = 8.3454 points per kg per liter (pkl).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: clarified that we use U.S. measures in th U.S., even though we sometimes erroneously refer to them as &quot;Imperial&quot; or &quot;english&quot; measures. Imperial measures are often very different than U.S. measures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2013-12-10T00:14:53.453" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T00:14:53.453" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7428" CreationDate="2013-12-11T09:37:12.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Uses Raspberry Pi and Arduino to hack a fridge. Active support community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewpi.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brewpi.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T09:37:12.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10830" CreationDate="2013-12-11T09:48:56.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a similar experience with fermenting apple cider: I had foam the first day, then no foam, though the cider is milky.  I'm thinking the yeast is still going, just slower than before.  Hope so.  Will watch for lacing.  It's 65 degrees and I used wine yeast.  I read that 65 is a good temperature for fermenting with wine yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6122" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T09:48:56.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2013-12-11T09:51:07.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to argue that distilled mead is not a brandy product as brandy is distilled wine and i believe the distinction for wine is a fermentation from fruit or berries. Honey is a sugar product and its my opinion that it should therefore be considered a Rum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6123" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T09:51:07.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11046" CreationDate="2013-12-11T16:18:49.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you're experiencing hangover-like symptoms. Hangovers from homebrew can be caused by fusel alcohols. Fusels are generally considered to be an &quot;off&quot; flavor and in large amounts create a hot, solventy taste (think paint thinner, or bad vodka). You didn't mention anything about your fermentation, but fusel production is generally the result of high fermentation temperatures (&gt;72) and they increase with gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, even a well brewed beer will have low levels of fusel alcohols, and they are more noticeable in certain styles like strong Belgians that have yeast strains that naturally kick off more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6124" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T16:18:49.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2302" CreationDate="2013-12-11T16:30:37.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kit vs extract vs all grain is to me like putting a frozen pizza in the oven vs cooking with sloppy Joe's hamburger helper vs making your own pasta from scratch. You can get good results from all. Just because you put in more work doesn't mean you get better results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, when I brew I brew all grain because I want to spend the time on it and because I want to tweak things and learn. If I wanted fast and simple, I just go to the store and buy beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T16:30:37.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11088" CreationDate="2013-12-11T22:06:15.290" Score="3" ViewCount="3455" Body="&lt;p&gt;This summer I kegged a pale ale for the first time. For about the first week or so the carbonation level on the beer was great but then the beer started to get flat (still tasted good, just no bubbles). I carbonated with priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the beer started getting I did the &quot;soap test&quot;, putting soapy water at all the connection points on the C02 canister, keg, and lines. There were no bubbles so I don't think I have a leak, this conclusion is (I think) backed up by the fact that the C02 canister is holding at a steady level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a kegerator so the keg was kept in my garage at a temp between 65-75F. I'm using a corny keg with ball locks. Prior to kegging I replaced all the o rings on the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really enjoyed the ease of kegging and would like to continue doing it but I'd like to figure out what I did to cause my beer to go flat so I don't do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's causing my beer to go flat? A leak (how should I test for it)? Is the relatively high storage temperature to blame? I'm really at a loss and would love some insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like my problem is incorrect pressure for my storage temp. I'm planning to get a kegerator early next year to put this to the test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1006" LastEditorUserId="1006" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T17:41:25.803" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T23:13:14.027" Title="Kegged Beer Not Staying Carbonated" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11086" CreationDate="2013-12-11T23:10:10.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't say what the PSI was on your regulator. It sounds like no CO2 was going into the keg or too little. What did you set your gauge at? How did the beer come out of the faucet or picnic tap? was it slow, or fast? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was slow, then I would say your priming sugar worked and your keg held a seal. But over time you created more headspace in the keg by drinking the beer, and the co2 pressure kept going down, and was not being replaces by the tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I would do. Keg the beer. hook up the gas and turn it up until it says 20 psi on your gauge. Ten pull up on the overpressure release valve on the keg cover to allow the c02 to escape. You should have heard the gas going into the keg and hear it come out with a whoosh. When you stop pulling up on the overpressure release valve, then you should hear the gas going into the keg to replace what you let out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can disconnect your tank , use the overpressure relief valve again to release pressure, and let your beer naturally carb. If you know the tank was on and co2 was going into the keg, then maybe you had your pressure too low. Perhaps 30 is needed to keep your keg carbed, but when you want to serve it, reduce the pressure by lowing your gauge to 10 and letting excess co2 out of the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are mistakes to make when kegging, don't give up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2119" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T23:10:10.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11086" CreationDate="2013-12-12T00:30:19.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you drink the beer, more CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; needs to be put in the keg to maintain the carbonation level. For beer at &lt;strong&gt;65-75F&amp;deg;F&lt;/strong&gt;, that's quite warm, and you'll need around &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/keg-carbonation-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;25psi&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to maintain the carbonation level. My guess is that you weren't holding the keg at this pressure, so it slowly loses carbonation as the beer is consumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dispensing at this pressure can be tricky - you'll need either a very long beer line (ca. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.franklinbrew.org/wp/?page_id=98&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;14ft&lt;/a&gt;) to balance the pressure, or bleed the keg prior to serving and then top up with CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. I prefer using a long beer line, so I don't have to mess with the carbonation pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Yep, that's the problem. At 75F, 10 psi only gives about 1.3 vols of co2. 4 psi would give you less than 1 vol co2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T13:29:22.357" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T13:29:22.357" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10091" CreationDate="2013-12-12T03:41:33.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you used other grains besides wheat to make that beer.  Pilsner grains are often used in the recipe.  Pilsner requires an extended boil time (usually 90 min) to help drive off DMS which will result in the sulfur smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have purchased local brewery pilsners that exhibit this DMS odor as well as my own Pilsners and Wheat based beers that include pilsner in the grain bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To correct the issue, extend the boil time to 90 min to drive off more of the DMS creating compounds.  If they are present in all ready bottled beer..time will eventually correct it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My last Pilsner was boiled for the usual 60 minutes and had the sulfur smell.  After several months it is totally gone and a great beer.  Unfortunately I only have three left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT*&#xA;Just looked at the recipe and noted that there is no pilsner malt. In that case I would suspect infection or procedure.  Do you boil with the lid on? (should be off). Vigorous boil helps drive off DMS compunds. (too light a boil?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6129" LastEditorUserId="6129" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T03:47:18.830" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T03:47:18.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11041" CreationDate="2013-12-12T17:20:00.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to say, I am surprised by this.  I'm glad you brought it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the temperature gradient could have been the problem.  The bottom with the water was rather hot and the top was cool causing stress over the long length of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I'm surprised that the gradient caused by hot tap water and cool but not cold air temperature would have been enough of a shock.  I wonder if there was already a crack or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other other hand it's been my observation that many glass carboys these days are somewhat thin in relation to their size these days and so are not as robust.  I compare this to glass cooking bowls that are thicker and smaller than a carboy and so are able to withstand boiling water being dumped in them.  Also, the glass in cooking bowls is possibly of higher quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to watch out for as I bottle my weisbier and clean my 6.5 gal. glass carboy. :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a possibility: I remember in physics labs some students would wrap especially large glass flasks and glass thermal bottles in fiber reinforced tape so that if there is breakage at least the mess and the danger was somewhat contained.  In our case it might spoil the look of our beer in the carboy but it might be worth it.  Or maybe there is a plastic web sleeve or sock we could get (google carboy shield).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6132" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T17:20:00.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11097" CreationDate="2013-12-13T03:02:30.687" Score="1" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded my equipment and estimated my new efficiency a bit too low, so the imperial IPA that I brewed on 11/30 ended up having an O.G. of 1.10 (supposed to be 1.09). I made a two step starter with White Labs California Ale (WLP001). The first step was 2L, and the second was a bit smaller at 1.2L since the first step went overboard a bit out of the erlenmeyer flask. I oxygenated with pure O2 for a minute and a few seconds before pitching. There was a little bit of bubbling the first 18 hours, but not much action until after 24 hours. It was really active for a week, and is now slowing down. There's still a 3/4&quot; krausen, and I took a reading of 1.033 today (12/12). I'm looking to get to at least 1.02 (hopefully). The original recipe was supposed to finish around 1.01. I also should mention that I've been rousing the carboy occasionally. Not that it matters, but here's a bubble every 10 - 15 seconds in the air lock, 6.5 gallon carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I pitch more yeast, or wait it out? I don't like leaving it on the trub for more than 3 weeks, but I don't want to rack to secondary until it's close to what I want. I was thinking to make a new starter and rack to secondary with the new starter. Any thoughts? I have never brewed a batch higher than 1.08, so this is new for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6134" LastEditorUserId="6134" LastEditDate="2013-12-13T04:37:32.187" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T17:33:51.497" Title="Is my fermentation on the right track?" Tags="|yeast|all-grain|stuck-fermentation|high-gravity|repitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11125" CreationDate="2013-12-13T18:28:08.857" Score="1" ViewCount="1496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently looking for a better way to monitor brewing progress than to have to pop out my syphon every few days and syphon it out for a hydrometer reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am currently looking at using a hydrometer for salt water fish tanks to use inside a transparent fermentation vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this? Any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3748" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T22:12:24.543" Title="Use aquarium hydrometer for brewing" Tags="|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11093" CreationDate="2013-12-13T23:23:49.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure when it will be readily available, but you can check out the BeerBug - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebeerbug.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thebeerbug.com/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It uses Bluetooth, and gives continuous data to graph your fermentation progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried the salt water hydrometer, but as long is it can be sanitized and will fit in your fermenter, then give it a try!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6134" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T23:23:49.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10491" CreationDate="2013-12-14T00:08:18.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in lower NY (zone 6b) and my Columbus and Centennial did very well this year with 7 - 8 hours of sun each day.  My Willamette and Nugget did not do very well, but this was their first year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any varieties that are susceptible to downy mildew might not do well, but if you space them out well (5 feet or so between crowns), water or drip irrigate at the soil, and keep the lower portions of the bines clear for proper aeration, you probably won't have a problem. Like I said, my Columbus did well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of info here about the varieties - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freshops.com/hops/usda-named-hop-variety-descriptions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.freshops.com/hops/usda-named-hop-variety-descriptions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6134" LastEditorUserId="6134" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T00:16:43.773" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T00:16:43.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10228" CreationDate="2013-12-14T00:14:45.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a cordless drill bottle brush - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/CORDLESS-DRILL-BOTTLE-BRUSH-P3321C53.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/CORDLESS-DRILL-BOTTLE-BRUSH-P3321C53.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works great for me, and is a cheap solution as long as you have a drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6134" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T00:14:45.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11091" CreationDate="2013-12-14T17:33:51.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;001 is a pretty attenuative yeast.  You're simply impatient.  In a beer of that OG, I wouldn't even begin to worry until it had been over 3 weeks.  Leave it alone for another week or so and see where it is then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T17:33:51.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10194" CreationDate="2013-12-14T21:52:01.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's so called Balling formula to calculate &quot;accurate enough&quot; amounts of alcohol, CO2 and yeast mass produced during fermentation. This formula is used in all EU countries to calculate excise duty:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2.0665 gms extract in wort make 1 gm of alcohol, 0.9565 gm CO2 and 0.11 gm yeast mass&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculate weight of extract that has been consumed by yeast then equate it with above values. For example, fermentation of 100 hL wort of 12 Plato to 3 Plato produces ~441.9 kgms CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carlsbergdanmark.dk/Produkter/omol/Olentusiaster/Documents/Balling%20formula%20-%20origin%20agk.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.carlsbergdanmark.dk/Produkter/omol/Olentusiaster/Documents/Balling%20formula%20-%20origin%20agk.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1423" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T21:52:01.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-15T01:33:10.670" Score="1" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a beer stall during carbonation, and I'm trying to determine what's the more likely cause -- temperature being too low, or kicked yeast struggling in a high-gravity beer.  The beer itself is a 9% Stout (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/the-slow-escape/brew-logs/105490&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/the-slow-escape/brew-logs/105490&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been in the bottle for about 4 weeks, and it is ever-so-slightly carbonated right now, the bottles hiss when opened, but it is not enough carbonation to make it pleasant to drink.  I am fairly sure that I added enough priming sugar, so the cause for the stalled carbonation is most likely either temperature, or an exhausted yeast that can't get going in such a high-alcohol beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in New Jersey and with the winter hitting right around now, it's not impossible that the temperature has been a bit low.  My thermostat's been set at 70 degrees but it is on a timer and goes lower at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I'm thinking that since there's &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; carbonation, it indicates that the conditions were good enough to get going but the yeast is just kicked.  I brewed this as a special Christmas beer so I'd like to take the little time left to try to get it drinkable by the holiday. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions? And, thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6142" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T22:46:20.920" Title="Not carbonating -- how to determine if cause is yeast or temperature?" Tags="|carbonation|stout|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11102" CreationDate="2013-12-15T02:30:02.253" Score="1" ViewCount="638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the middle of my brew for my first home brew, a Double IPA from Brewer's Best.  I added the first package of Columbus hops at the start of the boil as instructed, and its as if they haven't fully dissolved.  There is a layer of &quot;film&quot; on the top that is clearly the remains of the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also instructs me to add more Columbus hops with 15 minutes left, about to do that, and then it says to boil the final 15 minutes and then add Cascade hops at the end of the boil.  Are these cascade hops going to make their way into the primary fermenter??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6143" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T06:41:48.633" Title="First Home Brew - Double IPA - Boil Question" Tags="|hops|boil|ipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11178" CreationDate="2013-12-15T02:39:25.550" Score="1" ViewCount="516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a decent amount of leftover wine (ginger) after racking from my primary to a couple of demijohns. I want to use this for the topping up when I eventually rerack in a few months' time but I'm not sure how to store it. It's currently in a normal wine bottle (using about 650 of its 750ml) but I don't have an air lock that fits it though I've heard you can get away with just putting some muslin wrap over the opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question ultimately is can I leave this leftover in the bottle with some muslin wrapped over it and then use it top up my demijohns when I'm reracking? Or should I just drink it right now as it tastes delicious (probably due to the unfermented sugar that remains... SG of 1046) and top up as normal with water/syrup when necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3459" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T02:09:47.360" Title="How to store leftover fermenting wine for reuse later?" Tags="|fermentation|techniques|wine|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11100" CreationDate="2013-12-15T04:30:37.430" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hop pellets are not supposed to dissolve into your wort. Rather, the boiling isomerizes the alpha acids in the hops (and the isomerized alpha acids will dissolve into the wort), giving the wort its intended bitterness. However, it is totally normal to get an &quot;oil slick&quot;, film or foam of hops on top of the boiling wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops have three purposes: bittering, flavoring, and giving aroma. As a broad generalization, hops added at the start of the boil and up to 30 minutes before ending the boil primarily add bitterness, hops added at 15-30 minutes are primarily intended to add flavor, and hops added in the last 10 minutes of the boil and later add aroma. Of course, the actual bittering, flavoring, and aroma effects of hops depend on many things, including the specific gravity of your wort, the actual &quot;load&quot; and composition of alpha acids in your specific hops, and time/intensity of boiling and cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your recipe, your first Columbus hop addition is mainly for bittering, the second Columbus hop addition is mainly for flavor, and the last Cascade hop addition is mostly for aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of where the hops end up, most brewers try to leave behind as much of the hop sludge and hop pellets as possible when they move the wort to the primary fermenter. It is a judgment call as to how much wort you are willing to leave behind in the boil kettle. I don't think it will hurt your beer if a little trub (sludge) gets into the fermenter -- it tends to settle out fairly quickly anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your first brew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T06:41:48.633" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T06:41:48.633" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11104" CreationDate="2013-12-15T06:59:53.093" Score="1" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;To what extent would filtering out yeast change the color in a beer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T17:15:52.347" Title="Does filtering yeast change the color of a beer?" Tags="|filtering|color|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11103" CreationDate="2013-12-15T10:00:14.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is yeast in suspension, then filtering out the yeast will make the beer color appear darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you add yeast, (e.g. when making a starter) the color becomes progressively lighter - the yeast cells make the beer more reflective. When you remove the yeast cells, the beer becomes less reflective, and darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer will also become clearer, which can affect how some people perceive the color of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T10:00:14.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11103" CreationDate="2013-12-15T17:15:52.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you filter fine enough, you will also strip out some proteins in the beer, which changes both the body and the color a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T17:15:52.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-16T10:04:08.180" Score="5" ViewCount="2600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm washing the yeast from a brew I've just bottled and it's not settling quite how I am expecting with my limited (once before) experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fermentation was with a fresh packet of dried Danstar Windsor yeast, so this is a first generation population and I was very careful with my sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rinsed the fermenter trub with cool boiled water and poured it into a sanitised jar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An hour later the obvious gunge had settled out so poured the milky yeast fluid off into another sanitised jar, discarding the last inch with the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning I have a jar containing four distinct layers. From top to bottom...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;liquid (well, obviously :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very thin pale layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very thick darker patchy layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thin pale layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third, patchy looking layer is by far the most voluminous and, although it is yeasty in colour, it seems to be made more from two yeast tones, light and dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instinct tells me (which could easily be incorrect!) that the lighter layers are good and the darker layer contains stuff I don't want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I include this layer in my yeast harvest I'll end up with a healthy harvest (about 400ml), however if I manage to separate it out I'll be left with very little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit...&lt;/strong&gt; managed to upload a picture now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit...&lt;/strong&gt; a few hours have passed and it looks like the top light layer is settling through the darker layer and, perhaps, the light component is settling out of the darker band. Perhaps in a few more hours I'll be left with a very thick deposit of a dark substance on top of a thin light layer. Which is the good stuff? All of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo taken in the morning:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/elRSL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My yeast...&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastEditorUserId="6063" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T18:02:28.710" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T21:37:39.150" Title="identifying sediment layers in yeast washing" Tags="|yeast|yeast-washing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10067" CreationDate="2013-12-16T15:20:36.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually you can. You just need to know the final gravity of your beer. This could be done by attenuation limit test (you take sample of your beer and add good amount of fresh yeast and let it ferment quicker by shaking, keeping in top region of fermenting temperature) see instructions here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewwithfermentis.com/2010/11/29/attenuation-limit/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewwithfermentis.com/2010/11/29/attenuation-limit/&lt;/a&gt; just shake it as frequently as possible and keep it in good temperature and you should get your result quickly. Then you measure SG of your fermenting beer (it is slowing down when it is reaching FG). You could even slow it down by lowering the temperature to the low regions of fermenting temperature (ie. if you are not sure you will be around). Once your desired gravity is reached, crash cool to 7 deg C (for Ales) and leave it for few days to settle. Then bottle/rack and leave bottles/casks in room temperature for few days, yeast will &quot;wake up&quot; and ferment residual sugar and create natural cask condition.&#xA;General rule of thumb is botttle/rack when SG reaches 2-4 points above attenuation limit. Precise calculators could be found on internet. Temperature control is a must, but you can just get any old freezer and temperature control device from eBay - with this you can keep any temperature you want (21 deg C, 7 deg C whatever) in your freezer, both will cost you less than 60 quid and you will be able to produce much better beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6146" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T15:20:36.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10067" CreationDate="2013-12-16T16:29:58.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &quot;bad old days&quot; of homebrewing, beer was carbonated by bottling before fermentation was complete.  That allowed it to carb without adding any additional priming.   It also led to many exploding bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T16:29:58.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-17T04:34:15.003" Score="3" ViewCount="830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran out of CO2 while force carbonating. I barely had enough to seal the lid and purge the air out. I plan on getting more CO2 tomorrow but I'm afraid the beer will absorb the CO2 in the corney keg lowering the pressure and the lid will unseal exposing the beer to air. Is this a valid concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6154" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T14:03:05.470" Title="Ran out of CO2 while force carbonating" Tags="|kegging|co2|brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11111" CreationDate="2013-12-17T04:46:31.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it's quite alright. CO₂ is heavier than O₂, and it's a very constrained pathway for O₂ diffusion. For just one day, it's totally fine. Heck, it'd probably be fine for weeks, honestly; even just a couple of PSI is nothing to sneeze at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T04:46:31.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11111" CreationDate="2013-12-17T14:03:05.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be fine for a day if it's cold. Your keg may even remain sealed without the pressure from the gas - some kegs seal on they're own (but not all.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had one keg lose pressure and was exposed to air for a couple of weeks - the main problem was loss of aroma, and then a little staling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T14:03:05.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11115" CreationDate="2013-12-17T16:03:33.463" Score="1" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to time constraints, I need to do a two- to 2-1/2 hour &lt;em&gt;unattended&lt;/em&gt; mash, and then return to lauter, etc.  I plan to do a single batch sparge.  I am looking for a slightly-less fermentable wort for more body, so I theorize that my ideal mash profile is a single-temperature rest at around 156-158°F (69-70°C). However, my non-heated mash tun is going to lose around 15°F (8.3°C) over 2-2.5 hrs., I estimate**.  So I need to mash in higher. I don't have the ability to add more strike water mid-mash because I am maxed out on MLT space, and will not be around to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q1: What sort of wort profile can I expect if I mash-in at 162°F (72°C) , and end up at 147°F (64°C) over 2-2.5 hrs.?  John Palmer says in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt; that beta-amylase is denatured at 154-162°F (68-72°C), but I have seen other writers say that overnight mashes lead to very fermentable worts and dry beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2: Does the mash-in temp determine the fermentability of the wort, or is it based on the whole mash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q3: Besides buying a new cooler, do you have any advice in terms of tips, techniques, or mashing temps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it matters, this is a partial-mash recipe; 2.5 gallon (9.5 L) batch (fermenter volume).  My malt bill is 4.2 lbs. (1.9 kg) of grain (71% Golden Promise, and 23% Belgian Caramunich, 8% 160°L crystal), mashed at 1-1/3 qts./lb (0.57 L/kg), plus 0.75 lbs. (0.34 kg) of DME.  Yeast: Danstar Nottingham.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;** My two-gallon (7.6 L) beverage cooler mash tun loses 10°F (5.6°C) in one hour without a blanket, but I have added insulation to the lid and plan to wrap in a blanket, so I expect a maximum 15°F (8.3°C) loss over 2-2.5 hrs. I &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; preheat the cooler with 185°F (85°C) water. The lack of thermal mass, and inefficiency of cold beverage coolers to keep contents hot, are drawbacks of small batch brewing. This is the first time I am trying for a less-fermentable wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T18:26:50.967" Title="Effect of Long, High, Decling-Temperature Mash on Wort" Tags="|mash|wort|partial-mash|small-batch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11114" CreationDate="2013-12-17T16:51:13.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Denaturing any enzymes takes some time...at least 20 min.  If you don't go over 162, you should be OK in terms of having enough beta left.  The majority of the conversion will be done in the first half hour or so, but as long as you're still in the 145+ range, long chain dextrins will continue to be broken down into shorter ones.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's based on the entire mash time&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can wrap your cooler in more blankets or a sleeping bag to help hold the temp.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between the CaraMunich and the crystal, you have over 30% crystal malt in there.  The DME will also add some unfermentables.  I don't think you'll have to worry about having a thin beer, even with the overnight mash schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T16:51:13.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11114" CreationDate="2013-12-17T18:26:50.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Denny noted, there's already a lot of unfermentables. I would start at 154&amp;deg;F since the fermentability of this wort is not going to be high so you want to get as much out of the beta conversion as possible. 160&amp;deg;F is the limit for beta amylase activity and it's quickly denatured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a thicker body on the beer, try using a less attenuative yeast, such as WLP002, or WLP004.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;see &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Theory_of_Mashing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Theory of Mashing&lt;/a&gt;, Brewkaiser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T18:26:50.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11107" CreationDate="2013-12-17T19:36:08.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first and second layers are technically the same layer; the yeast simply not settled completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your third layer is the bulk of the yeast. This is what you will use for your next brew. Just remove the first two layers with a slow and careful pour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fourth layer is mostly trub. While many brewers consider this 'bad', it actually helps preserve your yeast by providing it with minerals it would not otherwise have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*in summary...*When you're ready to pitch the yeast, decant off the top two layers, pitch the third layer, and leave the forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T19:36:08.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11107" CreationDate="2013-12-17T21:37:39.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way of knowing how much yeast is in there without using a microscope. I wash yeast all the time. I also save back gyle for priming and it develops a thick trub layer (which obviously has no yeast in it, since it is just wort). I have had several yeast washes with multiple sediment layers, most likely from normal trub (hops, proteins, fats, husks, flour, et al). This is why letting it settle two or three times and racking off only the stuff in suspension helps to get more yeast/ less other trub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T21:37:39.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11120" CreationDate="2013-12-17T21:57:32.290" Score="1" ViewCount="799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking for color in a recipe without any of the roastiness from dark crystal malt I would get from using it as steeped specialty grains. When I asked the manager at the LHBS about cold steeping, he instead recommended &quot;late mashing&quot;. He told me to use a slightly darker crystal malt, and add it as a late mash addition in the last 10-15 minutes of the mash. Apparently, several breweries in my area have been doing this, per that guy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find much information on techniques, except &lt;a href=&quot;http://beercitadel.blogspot.com/2012/07/late-mash-additions.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this blog post&lt;/a&gt;, and these forum posts: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=3858.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link 1&lt;/a&gt;; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/late-mash-dark-grain-addition-120334/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link 2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an accepted technique for adding dark malts late in the mash for color? If not, any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, I don't have a grain mill, so I am limited to the LHBS's mill, which is locked at a 0.040&quot; gap, if that is relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T16:52:46.980" Title="Late Mash Additions for Color" Tags="|mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11119" CreationDate="2013-12-18T16:30:51.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally wouldn't use this technique, with how inconsistent and labor intensive it would be.  I like the ease behind adding in malts to the mash and letting them sit without having to make late additions, stirring, and hoping I get the color right without overshooting it.  Plus, your SRM estimates are essentially thrown out the window since mash length contributes to color as well as conversion.  Doing a late mash addition would effectively throw all your SRM estimates off, as it is likely to be very inconsistent between batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd rather just add a very small percentage of Carafa III to the mash.  By the sounds of it, if a dark crystal malt would give you the color you want, which at its (usual) highest is 120/150°L, and you want to avoid the flavor it would add, you'd be better off mashing in with a dramatically lower percentage of Carafa III, which has a lovibond of ~525°L, so you won't get much bitterness, but a lot of color.  You'll notice a dramatic color change with as little as 2-3% Carafa III.  If you want to go really pitch black dark though, roast is pretty much a given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T16:30:51.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11119" CreationDate="2013-12-18T16:52:46.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get color extracts from maltsters that are produced in a way to reduce the amount of bitterness imparted.  For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weyermann.de/eng/produkte.asp?idkat=26&amp;amp;umenue=yes&amp;amp;idmenue=37&amp;amp;sprache=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sinamar&lt;/a&gt; from Weyermann:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;SINAMAR® is produced solely from our roasted malt CARAFA®, according&#xA;  to the strict German &quot;Reinheitsgebot&quot; (purity-law). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To get the characteristic color and extract, SINAMAR® is carefully&#xA;  evaporated in a vacuum process, finely filtered and canisters and&#xA;  containers of different sizes are filled directly at 158°F - 167°F (70&#xA;  - 75°C). Due to this special treatment the taste of SINAMAR® is less bitter. SINAMAR® causes no turbidity and remains pH stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T16:52:46.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5486" CreationDate="2013-12-18T17:13:39.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most homebrew supply shops sell a two-gallon bucket, which is ideal for one-gallon batches. Midwest Supplies currently includes a drilled lid with grommet for the same price as other HBS charge for just the bucket. But I found that their silk-screened volume markings are sometimes off, so check them yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anything larger than one-gallon, I use a 4-gallon PET water bottle from Menard's (recycling symbol #1), which runs about $4-6, water included, with a medium, rubber universal carboy stopper.  The drawback is that it doesn't fit on standard-height shelves with the airlock.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@baka's advice on 3-gallon Better Bottles is spot on, because the fermenter should fit on shelving units, is a nice form factor, and is the perfect size for either small batches or for splitting a 5-gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T17:13:39.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11099" CreationDate="2013-12-18T21:31:14.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your bottle conditioning temperature was around 70ºF, you should be OK and should have seen sufficient carbonation by now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your conditioning temperature was 65ºF or lower, it'll take longer upwards around three to four weeks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You did not have a yeast starter for that big of a beer (you want a yeast starter for beers that start at an OG of 1.060 or higher), your yeast may be unhealthy, showing signs of fatigue, and do not have a high enough viable yeast population to produce more CO2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you didn't thoroughly oxygenate your wort (such as aggressively rocking your carboy or bucket for a couple minutes), you may also have produced conditions also not conducive for healthy yeast production...which would also lead to poor bottle conditioning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're doing bigger beers, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; make a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/YeastStarter.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yeast starter&lt;/a&gt;, oxygenate your wort, and use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/wyeast-brewer-s-choice-nutrient-blend-1-5-oz.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yeast nutrients&lt;/a&gt; in the last 15 minutes of your boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T21:31:14.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10933" CreationDate="2013-12-18T21:43:16.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that this is going to work very well, stripping out the barrier between the freezer and the refrigerator.  Any number of things could happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You risk damaging the refrigerant lines that may pass between or go around the freezer portion, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unless you can disable the freezer, you may find it working extra hard to try and maintain the thermostat temperature of the freezer area, which could possibly result in damaging the freezer components, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could end up with additional and unwanted condensation within the main part of your refrigerator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you know for certain what will happen, I'd suggest using your freezer space for storing hops or other things more appropriate.  And like @mdma said, this is probably more appropriate in a hacking forum of sorts for appliances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T21:43:16.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11093" CreationDate="2013-12-18T21:57:30.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the issue is not wanting to pull excessive volume of beer/wort for testing, get a brix refractometer — they're QUITE economical (averaging $20-25) and only pull a small dropper's worth.  When you use a reputable calculator for converting brix readings to factor in alcohol, it can be accurate within .005, which frankly is good enough for most home brewing endeavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Brix calculator from Northern Brewer does a fine job as does &lt;a href=&quot;http://seanterrill.com/2012/01/06/refractometer-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sean Terril's&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how good of results an aquarium hydrometer is going to produce since it has a specific purpose (measuring &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salinity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;salinity&lt;/a&gt; instead of weight of sugars left in solution) and is not necessarily calibrated for measuring beverages like beer, wine, mead, etc. You may wish to do a side-by-side comparison over the course of three or four beers to test for yourself its level of accuracy. But I'm inclined to think it won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastEditorUserId="3323" LastEditDate="2013-12-18T22:07:58.483" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T22:07:58.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10965" CreationDate="2013-12-18T22:13:22.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd advocate for just using a harder wood (such as maple) without a finish.  Some of the finishes out there may say &quot;food safe&quot;, but the reality is that even at higher mash temperatures there is the risk of those chemicals leeching in over time.  Depending upon your level of paranoia or concern about foreign chemicals and introducing them to your beer, I'd just suggest a mash paddle that's made with a harder wood and don't bother staining it.  Clean well after every use and it'll serve you well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T22:13:22.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10931" CreationDate="2013-12-18T22:23:29.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unless you took a final/terminal gravity measurement and compared that to your initial gravity reading (assuming you took one), you have no way of knowing the actual attenuation (percent of solution fermented) and gauge that against the yeast's potential. Therefore you really can't pinpoint if this is a fermentation issue or a bottling issue (or both).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're brewing a bigger beer (frankly anything above OG 1.060) and didn't make a yeast starter or pitch multiple packs/vials of yeast, you will likely end up with under-attenuated beer or one with a lot of very hot alcohol flavors (stressed yeast).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle conditioning should really only take four weeks, perhaps six at the most, if you're conditioning around 70ºF.  If going into fermentation your yeast culture didn't have sufficient numbers, nutrients, and oxygenation, it's quite possible there just isn't the kind of yeast population sufficient to produce more CO2.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T22:23:29.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11099" CreationDate="2013-12-18T22:46:20.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the recipe (9.5lb LME, 3lb sugar, 1lb base malt, 4lb speciality malts) the FG of 1.040 would seem to indicate the yeast also pooped out on the main ferment. Even though this is a partial mash brew, 1.040 FG seems high given it's about 50% extract.  WLP004 is not a big attenuator, which may contribute to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing beers this big requires a lot of attention to the details - oxygenation, a large (2-3x normal) starter, yeast nutrient and temperature control are wise steps to ensure a successful ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation of big beers can take up to 8 weeks. You can gently agitate the bottles to encourage the yeast to continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T22:46:20.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-19T01:33:53.693" Score="1" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a India Pale Ale which is just finishing fermentation in a sealed bucket under airlock, I want to skip the secondary. How long should I wait before carefully racking and bottling?  Will the beer be clear at that point or should I extend that time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T23:09:43.530" Title="Any drawbacks in forgoing a secondary?" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11129" CreationDate="2013-12-19T01:48:35.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No drawbacks. Wait one or two more weeks. Clarity will depend on the yeast flocculation, but if you can bring the temperature down before racking (cold-crash), that will help the yeast and anything else settle out of suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T01:48:35.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11129" CreationDate="2013-12-19T02:16:55.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No draw backs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that the final gravity has been reached and then move to the bottles. Let it sit for a few weeks to carbonate and it will clear at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T02:16:55.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-19T09:31:14.473" Score="0" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a sale on homebrew equipment at the moment, and I am adding things to my basket to mimic a starter kit. One thing that I notice is that the kits come with a single fermentation bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I get a second for racking or is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T20:30:44.710" Title="Should I buy two buckets?" Tags="|beer|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11132" CreationDate="2013-12-19T12:40:14.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, get a second bucket. You'll need it for racking. If you plan to use the StarSan sanitizer (recommended) You might even consider a third bucket for holding the StarSan - in an airtight container, StarSan will last a lot longer, so you don't have to make up a fresh batch with each brew or each time you bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T12:40:14.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11137" CreationDate="2013-12-19T14:29:49.487" Score="0" ViewCount="1234" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a lack of oxygen in wort generate an increase in fusel alcohols given that a fermentation is still healthy/vigorous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Background for those who are interested&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been struggling to determine the cause of strong fusel alcohol presence in my brews. My most recent beer that I brewed was done in my chest freezer at 17-18.5C ambient temp using Saf s-04 yeast. This is a 5% beer. Upon opening the pail after two weeks I noticed oil slicks on top and a medium fusel alcohol taste.  I brewed 1.5 Gallons for a 2 gallon pail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't shake or rock the wort before pitching. I just pour my wort at a high height into the pail. I then add a packet of dry yeast without creating a starter. This method has worked for me in the past, finishing off a vigorous fermentation in a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastEditorUserId="3592" LastEditDate="2013-12-19T14:41:45.103" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T15:29:03.750" Title="Can a lack of oxygen in wort lead to increased fusel alcohol?" Tags="|fermentation|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11162" CreationDate="2013-12-19T14:59:30.757" Score="4" ViewCount="37836" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started brewing about a year ago, currently on my sixth batch, all using extract and some additional grains. My problem is that my beers consistently finish with a higher than expected final gravity. For the life of me, I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My latest batch is the biggest failure yet. I don't think I can bottle it like it is. I modified the all-grain recipe linked below to use extract for the base malt. I did a &quot;mini-mash&quot; with the other grains (crystal, chocolate, smoked, black patent). The temperature at the end of the mash was 150F. I substituted 6 lbs. pale LME and 10 oz. pale DME for the base malt. I upped the second hop addition to a full 1 oz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f126/bert-grants-perfect-porter-tribute-149888/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f126/bert-grants-perfect-porter-tribute-149888/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plugged this recipe into Brew Target. It said my OG should be ~1.046 and my FG should be ~1.013. My OG was right on target when I pitched the yeast. I pitched one packet of hydrated Nottingham yeast at 74F. The airlock started bubbling within a few hours, went strong for about a day, and then just stopped. After 10 days, the gravity was 1.022. The taste is rather bland, not particularly sweet or bitter or ... anything else, really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used tap water from the filtered dispenser on my refrigerator. I aerated by shaking vigorously in the fermenter for a few minutes before pitching the yeast. Fermentation temperature is a consistent 68F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked the proprietor at my LHBS for help. He gave me some yeast energizer and high attenuating ale yeast to try to get it going again. I gently stirred in the energizer and sprinkled the yeast on top. That was about 18 hours ago, and it shows zero activity right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other examples:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    Imperial IPA, OG 1.094, expected FG 1.023, actual FG 1.028&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    Pale Ale, OG 1.052, expected FG 1.013, actual FG 1.018  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These things start out with the right OG, but they just stop fermenting and refuse to go any further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea what might be wrong? What I might be doing to encounter this repeatedly? What I can do to salvage my latest batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastEditorUserId="6160" LastEditDate="2013-12-19T15:05:05.570" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T22:32:28.983" Title="Consistently high final gravity" Tags="|fermentation|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11135" CreationDate="2013-12-19T15:29:03.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hot, fusel alcohol flavors generally correlate to stress in the yeast — insufficient population, not enough nutrients, or insufficient oxygen levels in your starting wort.  If you're getting these off flavors for even a smaller beer at 1.050, in the very least do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;in your boil, add &lt;a href=&quot;http://home-brewing.northernbrewer.com/search?from=os&amp;amp;w=yeast%20nutrient&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yeast nutrients&lt;/a&gt; in the last 15 minutes of the boil, and &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;before pitching the yeast in your cooled wort (between 18-21ºC for ales, around 7ºC for lagers) aggressively swirl/rock your carboy for a few minutes. You want to swirl it aggressively enough so that you see swaths of small bubbles churning and mixing with your wort. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEkwp_2Yezo#t=1525&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;representative from Wyeast&lt;/a&gt; has recommended shaking for about a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't brew very often with dry yeast, but you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; dry pitch, and for the most part do OK. However, if you're taking the above two steps already, then you should look into making starters. Starters ensure that you've got a healthy, viable population of yeast sufficient to consume the long-chain sugars in your wort. If you've got a healthy culture and population of yeast and produce an environment rich in oxygen and nutrients, then you're a lot less likely to get the fusel alcohol biproducts in your fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T15:29:03.750" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11140" CreationDate="2013-12-19T15:44:35.173" Score="0" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking a good, no rinse sanitisor readily available in the UK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like the highly recommended &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/star-san.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Star San&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T15:58:17.700" Title="No rinse sanitisor available in the UK?" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11136" CreationDate="2013-12-19T15:54:43.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few thoughts, and I hope I can answer your question in the process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The only fermentables to speak of will be your malt extracts — the other grain is just adjuncts and will not contribute a significant amount of long-chain sugars for fermentation. So you can pretty much rule out the mash. But as to your malt extract, is it fresh? Do you have any reason to suspect it may be old or have been sitting on the shelf for a long time? Age will affect flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are you oxygenating your wort? Your beers may be petering out due to insufficient oxygen and the yeast is unable to reach optimal attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are you using yeast nutrients? If not, consider adding yeast nutrient in the last 15 minutes of the boil to help contribute to the development of a healthy cell wall in your yeast cells. This will also help for a complete fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also, check with the yeast manufacturer for it's potential attenuation range — often you'll have yeast that have a potential attenuation range of 70-75% for example.  Use the formula &lt;code&gt;attenuation = (OG - FG) / OG&lt;/code&gt; to gauge your apparent attenuation and compare that to what the yeast manufacturer's stated range is.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also look into your yeast handling.  If you're consistently having issues with under-attenuation, maybe consider adding yeast starters into the equation and see if that helps with your attenuation issues. An be sure to use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yeast pitching calculator&lt;/a&gt; to estimate how much yeast you may need for your recipe/batch.  Every recipe is different and may require more or less yeast to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps! See this &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/kegging/item/1895-attenuation-advanced-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article on BYO.com&lt;/a&gt; for some more information on attenuation issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edited:&lt;/strong&gt; added link and reference to yeast pitching rate calculator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastEditorUserId="3323" LastEditDate="2013-12-19T17:07:43.840" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T17:07:43.840" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11138" CreationDate="2013-12-19T15:58:17.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;StarSan looks like it's available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Five_Star_Chemicals.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;in your area&lt;/a&gt;.  I use their sanitizer and it works great!  As they say, &quot;don't fear the foam!&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T15:58:17.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11129" CreationDate="2013-12-19T16:04:10.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While there are no drawbacks to leaving it in the primary — I do all the time — try not to let it sit on the trub for more than four to six weeks. Off flavors can start to develop the longer it sits on the trub. So if you're planning to let your beer sit for a longer period of time, consider racking to secondary. Otherwise, if you're just going to have it in the carboy for four weeks or less, you're fine leaving it in the primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get clear beer in the primary, both by cold-crashing and using something like Biofine, ClarityFerm, or Gelatin Finings. I've used them all, and they all do a sufficient job helping produce a clear beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T16:04:10.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11136" CreationDate="2013-12-19T16:27:45.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, don't trust ANY software to accurately predict FG.  All it's doing is making a guess based on the attenuation rating of the yeast.  That number is meant for comparing one strain to another using a standardized wort, not as a way of predicting the attenuation you might get.  The composition and fermentbaility of the wort is the main determining factor in attenuation.  Extracts almost always contain a certain amount amount of unfermentable sugars.  Unless you know for a fact that the extract is base malt only, there will likely be at least crystal malt in there.  Darker extracts have even more unfermentables.  When you then add crystal, chocolate, etc. you're adding even more unfermentables.  When I've designed extract kits of my recipes for places like Northern Brewer, I always swap out part of the extract for some sugar.  Table sugar, corn sugar, it doesn't matter.  By doing that I was able to get an FG very close to the all grain versions and the flavor and mouthfeel were remarkably similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T16:27:45.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11073" CreationDate="2013-12-19T17:02:02.860" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're brewing outside, you're going to have to forgo the pumps in below freezing temperature unless you plan on running that pump throughout the brew day, almost non-stop with hot liquid.  From personal experience, I've had my march pump freeze up on me &lt;em&gt;in the garage&lt;/em&gt; with the ambient temperature around 31ºF sometime between vorlaufing and chilling the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to heating your mash and maintaining a boil, heat sticks pose just as much of a safety risk as propane. Electricity and water/liquid can be a dangerous thing, so unless you are totally comfortable with working with electrical things (or know someone who is), I'd personally avoid it. You'll want a Ground-Fault Interrupt that you're plugging your unit into, sufficient service to power your heating elements, proper installation of your heat stick, and ensure that things are sealed sufficiently to prevent leaks and potential electrical hazards. But not being an electrician, I recommend that you &lt;em&gt;consult with a licensed electrician&lt;/em&gt; before proceeding with that plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I recommend using a space heater of some sorts — like a propane-powered area heater to keep the ambient temperature above freezing.  But be sure you have adequate ventilation or you could kill yourself with the Carbon Monoxide. For me, having the garage door up one foot usually works. I heat my mash and my wort with a propane burner, and when I need to rest for my mash, I wrap it up in two layers of the aluminum bubble insulation, held on with a bungee cord.  I typically still have to heat and stir my mash every 15 minutes if it's below 30ºF in the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT:  not sure I deserved the down-votes.  Before the OP was edited, there was nothing to indicate the expressed desire was to control fermentation temperatures, and NOT winter brewing...which is what the content in his question implied.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastEditorUserId="3323" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T00:49:49.017" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T00:49:49.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11132" CreationDate="2013-12-19T18:48:31.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will definitely want more than one bucket.  You'll need a couple fermenters to keep your pipeline going :) a bottling bucket and as mentioned above possibly a sanitizer bucket.  I also have bucket for soaking labels off bottles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have buy them though... Check local restaurants and bakeries.  They get foodstuffs delivered in 5 gal food grade buckets all the time and are usually willing to let you have their empties for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get my buckets from a local soap making shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6163" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T18:48:31.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="565" CreationDate="2013-12-19T23:45:04.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished making a 5gal batch of natural root beer using danelion root, burdock root and sassafras, along a small amount of wheatgrass and beet juice (for colour).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a combination of white sugar, honey and mollasses to ferment and a combination of lactose and stevia to sweeten. I reused an English Ale yeast from an IPA I made a while ago and bottle conditioned&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I transferred to secondary and tasted and was good but a little bland. I primed with corn sugar and bottled 2 gallons to see what it tastes like carbonated. To the remaining 3gal I added 1oz of centinnial hops boiled for 30m. It now has more hop bitterness and flavour but think it could still use a little more hop flavour so plan on boiling 1oz cascade for 15 mins to get some more flavour/aroma. Will then re-prime and bottle the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6167" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T23:45:04.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2706" CreationDate="2013-12-20T02:57:54.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was in jail I used orange juice, or even koolaid packets and then added pieces of crackers (yeast is said to be burnt up, but if you put it under hot water a few times the one or two few yeasts that somehow survive start to reproduce, it takes a few days but you see results).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Didn't taste &quot;great&quot; but got up around 14% I'd say. For sure a buzz. (yeast ball in it made you sick if you drank it though)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6168" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T02:57:54.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-20T21:58:31.760" Score="5" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I am very new to home brewing, my first batch has been fermenting for about a week.  I have been a beer enthusiast for years, so I am really enthusiastic about this new hobby of mine.  By trade, I am a computer scientist and I specialize in data analytics.  I use a tool called QlikView, to build analytical applications, and it is really powerful in spotting relationships between data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I have an idea to build up a database (really, just a series of Excel Spreadsheets) and then load them into a QlikView application to allow us home brewers to do some analysis on the composition of existing beers, to allow us to &quot;tinker&quot; with a recipe based on ingredients that are shared in beers we like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example I can think of... say I have three favorite IPAs, if I saw that they all share a common hop then I would view this as a hop I must really like in a beers.  The idea would be to try to build up new recipes based on common components across potentially different clusters of beers someone may like.  This could extend beyond just the ingredients, also into the brewing process and additions, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is, has anyone tried something like this?  (obviously, not necessarily in the tool I am suggesting).  Also, is there a good repository of beer recipes out there I could use to seed this database?  Also, would anyone be interested in joining in such a project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No financial angle here, I am wanting to build something useful that would be openly shared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6143" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T00:30:15.760" Title="Analytics for Beer" Tags="|first-time-brewer|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11447" CreationDate="2013-12-20T22:27:47.707" Score="1" ViewCount="846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm newer to home brewing (about 8 batches extract, 1 partial mash) and looking to tackle this. It was absolutely amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could somebody help me out with the recipe? Is this the right place to ask?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes: The stout was very well balanced, with a strong and delayed (about 1 second) aftertaste of vanilla. I have never brewed with vanilla or oats, so please be specific about how to handle that. I'm ok with neglecting the 'Bourbon Barrel' conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://avbc.com/our-beers/anderson-valley-wild-turkey-bourbon-barrel-stout/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://avbc.com/our-beers/anderson-valley-wild-turkey-bourbon-barrel-stout/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BITTERNESS:&#xA;14 IBU&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MALTS:&#xA;Pale Two-Row, Crystal (40L &amp;amp; 80L), Roasted Barley, Munich, Chocolate, Oats&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOPS:&#xA;Columbus, Northern Brewer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3885" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T00:37:50.010" Title="Anderson Valley Bourbon Barrel Stout Recipe" Tags="|recipe|stout|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11129" CreationDate="2013-12-20T23:09:43.530" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll get more off flavors by not using a secondary. If you rack to the secondary after 5 days or so, you'll get a much better brew. It can then sit in the secondary much longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T23:09:43.530" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11086" CreationDate="2013-12-20T23:13:14.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;9 times out of 10 you have a leak. If you have ball lock corny kegs like I do- check the O rings on the connects. The keg could be holding pressure fine, but leaking when you hook it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T23:13:14.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10983" CreationDate="2013-12-21T02:40:57.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean Fahrenheit and are brewing an ale, not lager. Yes- that is way too cold. Most ales are best pitched around 75°F (24°C), although I've yet to have a problem with temperatures up to 100°F (37°C). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For best results use a wort chiller to chill the wort as rapidly as possible. The longer the cooling time, the greater the chance of contamination. Additionally, a yeast starter is always a good idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T15:44:08.520" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T15:44:08.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10845" CreationDate="2013-12-21T02:49:50.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Charlie Papazian recommends rehydrating the yeast in the &quot;bible&quot; of home brewing, &quot;The Complete Joy Of Homebrewing, 3rd Edition&quot; (page 80 - 81). Following his instructions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, boil 1.5 cups of water for 10 minutes, then cover with foil.  Add the dried yeast at about 100 degrees Fahrenheit and add the yeast and wait for 30 minutes before pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T02:49:50.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10818" CreationDate="2013-12-21T02:53:39.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always rack a second time. The only down side to that is the risk of contamination. However, if you racked after a week- chances are you're probably fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T02:53:39.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10795" CreationDate="2013-12-21T03:00:36.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're fine using anything you can for beer- the carbonation levels are about the same. 22 oz bottles and corny kegs work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T03:00:36.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10743" CreationDate="2013-12-21T03:02:50.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need an air lock to let out the gas. When making beer you're essentially creating a batch of yeast food- gas (CO2) and alcohol are the yeast &quot;poop&quot;. You need to give that gas somewhere to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T03:02:50.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10709" CreationDate="2013-12-21T03:05:21.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me that your lid doesn't have a good seal and that's why the airlock isn't moving. Try sitting and watching the airlock for awhile. You'll usually only see rapid activity at the beginning. One thing to try is tapping on the lid a bit. If there is a real seal you should see the airlock bubble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T03:05:21.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10625" CreationDate="2013-12-21T03:13:43.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't do that. There are kits out there that let you put the carboy upside down, with a spout out of the existing hole. They don't cost much and you're essentially making a poor man's conical fermenter (lacking some of the benefits though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T03:13:43.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10567" CreationDate="2013-12-21T03:21:50.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're probably out of luck, although if it fermented fine then it won't hurt you or make you sick. (A reason beer was drank hundreds of years ago.) So you're probably going to end up dumping it. An alternate would be to extract the alcohol out of it via distillation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T03:21:50.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1337" CreationDate="2013-12-21T03:35:23.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started off brewing in a dorm room. If you bottle in 12 oz bottles it is more work, but they'll fit under a bed (or at least the one we had). You can easily fit batches of beer under there. Another good option is the bottom of the closet and stack things on top. For both, I like to keep them in the 24 bottle boxes you purchase new ones from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T03:35:23.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1566" CreationDate="2013-12-21T03:41:01.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Key tricks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower alcohol beers- don't do an IPA or barely wine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a yeast starter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment at the ideal temperature with minimal swings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keg it and force carbonate it. This mostly eliminates the time waiting to carbonate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T03:41:01.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11136" CreationDate="2013-12-21T14:40:07.423" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it's either the yeast or the wort that's giving you the trouble. You can find out by doing a forced fermentation test - take a small amount of wort, and pitch a relatively large amount of yeast (e.g. 1/2 sachet of dry yeast.) Keep it at 75F or more so that the yeast ferment out any fermentable sugars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After at least 1 day, or once the yeast have sedimented, take a gravity reading. If the reading is the same as your FG (1.018) then you know it's the wort that is the problem. If the FG is lower, then you know it's the yeast that is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the amount of LME, I'd guess it's the wort that is the problem and that you have a lot of unfermentables. Malt extract fermentability can be &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7531/malt-extract-fermentability&quot;&gt;quite low&lt;/a&gt;, so as Denny rightly suggests, you should not subs grain for 100% extract, but use 20% fermentable sugar/80% LME to raise the combined fermentability of LME+sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T14:40:07.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1668" CreationDate="2013-12-21T15:34:09.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done it a few times, but never a whole batch- maybe one if I have a bit more than a keg for example. Of course there is the pressure issue others have mentioned, although I've never had that problem. The only problem I've had is the cap not forming a perfect seal, not allowing it to build up enough carbonation to pressurize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T15:34:09.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11167" CreationDate="2013-12-21T19:46:23.207" Score="2" ViewCount="7681" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cider has been going for a month and I am not sure whether to move them to bottles yet or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was advised that slower fermentation leads to better cider, to I have had them in the garage for the last week and a half. Since moving to the colder environment,  the gravity has moved from 1034 - 1022 on one demijohn, and 1020 to 1015 on another. Neither has completely dropped out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that I want a slightly lower gravity before bottle to avoid exploding, but I'm very new to this and may be totally wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a cast iron rule I can follow? How can I tell when should I bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastEditorUserId="103" LastEditDate="2013-12-22T06:44:51.583" LastActivityDate="2018-04-29T21:26:15.663" Title="Is my hard cider ready for bottling?" Tags="|bottling|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11148" CreationDate="2013-12-21T21:39:22.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have enough reputation to add a comment, so I'll just post an answer to participate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds sort of like a discovery service for beer, kind of like Last fm and Pandora are for music, correct?  Although it seems like there would be more detailed match criteria with the ingredients included.  After a quick Google search, I can only find a few (BrewGene, RateBeer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am understanding you correctly, you would have the following tables:  brewery, beer, hops, yeast, fermentables and link tables for many to many relationships with maybe a few more tables for hop addition time, other ingredients, etc. Basically you'd have a recipe database for each beer so that relationships can be determined using the likeness of beers (beer A is similar to beer B in terms of the hop schedule or grain bill, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you would have to find a good repository of beer recipes to work from, otherwise the research would obviously be a lot of work.  There would also probably a degree of completeness/correctness of these recipes to consider.  Maybe the users can submit the ingredients/recipes and suggest changes to existing recipes as a collaborative effort sort of like Wikipedia?  As far as existing recipe databases go, all I can find are homebrew recipes rather than commercial ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also a computer scientist specializing in web application development.  I've never used QlikView, but looks interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6134" LastEditorUserId="6134" LastEditDate="2013-12-21T21:45:01.710" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T21:45:01.710" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11148" CreationDate="2013-12-22T00:30:15.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, metrics and analytics are always important, and useful.  The problem is pitching your idea to a broad enough audience to get it off the ground.  Without mass data to back everything up, you won't be able to justify the work.  If you intend to do it for yourself only, well I honestly wouldn't bother, since I know what I like, and what I don't like.  I wouldn't need a spreadsheet to verify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you are a computer scientist?  There's repositories packed to the brim with recipes, and they may be willing to work with you, if you are willing to get your hands dirty and bust out your coding chops.  I would recommend contacting the folks at Brewtoad, or Brad on Beersmith and pitch your ideas to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, on a homebrew level, no.  I am unaware of any site or tool that parses through data to show trends and analysis for ingredients and techniques.  A lot of it is subjective, since it really does boil down to (ba-dum-tiss) flavor, which is always subjective to each person.  I would guess there's hesitation from developers since there really is no right or wrong way to brew a beer.  You would have to keep everything factual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T00:30:15.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11164" CreationDate="2013-12-22T17:02:02.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sugar in apple juice is almost entirely fermentable, so most ciders finish fermenting with a specific gravity near 1.000. If you used a wine yeast, you can expect a very dry finished cider. Ale yeast flocculates sooner, and can leave some small amount of residual sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, your gravities are high enough that I'd say your cider is not done fermenting. If the ambient temperatue in your garage is below 15 C., the yeast have probably slowed down a great deal. It's possible that they've actually gone dormant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend moving the fermenters somewhere warmer, around 20 C. Fermentation may restart on its own, but if it doesn't you'll want to gently rouse the sediment with a sanitized, long handled spoon. Be careful not to introduce air into the cider, as this can lead to off flavors and premature staling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T17:02:02.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11164" CreationDate="2013-12-23T02:09:55.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All my ciders ferment dry, at or less then 1.000.  Your temps need to be at least in the mid 60F for fermentation to continue. Once that is complete, the yeast will drop out over a month or so or you can use any number of finings to help it clear. I age my ciders for a year before bottling, age will make them smoother and I have found that the apple flavors are better with age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T02:09:55.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-23T05:16:49.253" Score="0" ViewCount="1075" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the middle of fermentation on my first batch of homebrew, it's a Double IPA from Brewer's best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During my boil, I added Columbus hops at the start and after 45 minutes, in addition to some cascade hops at the conclusion of my boil.  My boil was 12/14, and I noticed bubbling about 24 hours later as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also able to previously smell the aroma of the hops during the fermentation.  It smelled very similar to how the pellet hops smelled in the package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions; is it normal to smell the hop aroma during fermentation, and then if so, is it normal for the aroma to disappear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, again, if this is all normal, does the disappearance of the aroma tell me anything about how the fermentation is progressing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6143" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T05:52:29.130" Title="Beer aroma during fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|hops|aroma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11169" CreationDate="2013-12-23T05:52:29.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, yes, and not necessarily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) You usually get hop aromas from the airlock during initial fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) The aroma has always disappeared after a few days. The hop aroma is coming through the airlock, so the fermentation is clearly producing and pushing CO2 gas through the airlock (or leaking from a leaky bucket seal) - CO2 gas that also has picked up hop aromas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) When the aroma disappears, it is logical to assume that much less gas is being produced by the beer. So yes, that is probably a sign of less vigorous fermentation. But it doesn't necessarily tell you what is going on in the fermenter. Fermentation could be complete, or it could be stuck. I suppose you could even have an infection that produced the gas. Only a gravity reading will tell you for sure about fermentation progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T05:52:29.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2013-12-24T11:36:26.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Oxygenating the Wort and use of Yeast (Micro)Nutrients&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This made a noticeable difference to my beers, especially those over 1.070. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T11:36:26.527" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-12-24T11:36:26.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11136" CreationDate="2013-12-24T20:41:34.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation is quick at first, then slows down. 10 days is rarely enough time for a fermentation to complete and if you bottled at that point would have a high probability of exploding bottles. If your gravity is higher than anticipated, LET IT FERMENT LONGER. While initial fermentation will typically happen quickly, you may have to wait 3 weeks or more to reach your anticipated final gravity. In any case, your fermentation is not complete until you have had 3 (or more) successive gravity readings that have not changed. If your readings have not changed, yet your gravity is significantly higher than anticipated, wait another week or 2 just to be safe. Fermenting temperature will also impact the time and attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewtarget is great software and does an excellent job of anticipating final gravity, with that caveat that you have to understand final gravity is a function of the fermentability of your ingredients and the attenuation of your yeast; both of which are variable.  However, it should give you a good idea of where you should end. If you have waited long enough for fermentation to complete and you are still significantly higher on your final gravity, check the ingredients you are using and see if you can find better specifications for them and update your ingredients in BrewTarget. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T20:41:34.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1671" CreationDate="2013-12-24T22:54:10.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the Sam Adams bottles clean very easily. Soak in hot water with some Oxyclean and they just float off.  Duval bottles are thicker then most US bottles and handle a higher volume of CO2, but are about 11oz. vs 12 for most others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T22:54:10.020" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-12-24T22:54:10.020" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2013-12-25T17:16:26.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Replaced mash tun washer hose with stainless false bottom&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the stainless water hose out of my 10 gallon Rubbermaid mash tun and upgraded with a stainless steel false bottom.  With the washer hose, there was channeling when fly sparging, but now it works great, and it increased my efficiency greatly.  I also noticed that the vorlauf goes much faster with minimal loss in temperature over the washer hose.  This might not have much of an effect on the end product, but saved me a lot of time an money due to a better method and resulting increase in efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6134" LastEditorUserId="6134" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T03:48:55.843" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T03:48:55.843" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-12-25T17:16:26.303" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9683" CreationDate="2013-12-25T23:53:44.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make vinegar from any alcoholic beverage. Since there is a one-to-one ratio between ethanol and acetic acid production, use or dilute your beverage to 5-7% alcoholic strength. This is the concentration of commercially bought vinegar, usually five percent. While Acetobacter bacteria are present in the air and is carried by the vinegar fly, the use of a mother culture or unpasteurized natural vinegar will speed the process. Provide air as the bacteria requires it for the conversion. Avoid beverages that have been treated with preservatives as this will slow or prevent the growth. Moderately warm temperatures are best (70-80F) colder or extremely warm temperatures will slow the process and in the case of too much heat may produce off flavors due to an excessive formation of esters.&#xA;Typically, at the proper temperature, the culture will convert 1% of alcohol into 1% of acetic acid per week. Keep the culture in a dark place and check every week for mother formation, any mold growth and evaporation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6188" LastEditorUserId="6188" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T00:01:30.233" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T00:01:30.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11204" CreationDate="2013-12-25T23:54:54.250" Score="1" ViewCount="1220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a natural gas heater and a natural gas range, both of which could be converted to propane. Why is the carbon monoxide so dangerous with a banjo burner, but not with the heater or range? I've looked around but can't seem to find a definitive answer. There do seem to be a lot of people using camp stoves and other lp stoves indoors without incident. What I can't tell is if they are simply really lucky... I am not referring to any danger from the location of the flame, boil overs or leaky gas lines, etc, purely with respect to the ventilation requirements and carbon monoxide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T15:07:04.157" Title="Why is using a banjo burner indoors dangerous?" Tags="|propane-burner|indoors|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11059" CreationDate="2013-12-25T23:59:37.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a suitable wine, and wish to reduce the headspace, use sanitized marbles for displacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T23:59:37.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11101" CreationDate="2013-12-26T00:02:02.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can. In fact this is what Jack Keller recommends. It is a second (or third in your case) fermentation to keep clean. Make sure you taste it first. A growler will get you a 1/2 gallon. You can use a drilled rubber stopper to add an airlock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T02:09:47.360" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T02:09:47.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-26T02:26:58.283" Score="7" ViewCount="11290" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there anything wrong with simply letting the water you add to top off your wort do the chilling to bring it to yeast pitching temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6189" LastEditorUserId="6189" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T02:51:57.673" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T23:49:58.627" Title="Cooling wort - just add water?" Tags="|wort|cooling|chiller|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2013-12-26T04:35:55.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there is nothing necessarily wrong about using topping off water to cool your wort. &lt;strong&gt;But&lt;/strong&gt; there normally isn't enough topping off water to cool the wort to pitching temperature by itself without applying an additional cooling method (the math is below). One reason to cool quickly to ideal yeast-pitching temp is to allow the yeast to get a nice head start before bacteria can get a foothold. Wort is an excellent bacteria breeding medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume yeast-pitching temperature is 70°F (20°C) or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example 1:&lt;/strong&gt; If you do a partial boil and end up with 2.5 gallons (9.5 L) of wort at 210°F (99°C) and top off with 2.5 gallons (9.5 L) of water cooled in the refrigerator to 40°F (4.5°C), you will only cool your combined liquid volume to 125°F (52°C). Your wort is now lingering at ideal bacteria breeding temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a friend who has probably made at least 100 partial-boil, extract recipe kits over a 15+ year homebrewing career. He dumps tap water ice cubes into his hot wort, and claims to have had very few infected batches. Even if you are not worried about topping off with plain-old tap water (frozen or liquid), ice alone is not enough to get you to yeast pitching temp. My friend simultaneously uses a cold water bath in his kitchen sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example 2&lt;/strong&gt;: If you assume only 2.0 gallons (8.4 L) of wort at 210°F (99°C) and top off with 25 lbs. (11.3 kg) of ice at 5°F (-15°C), that gets you to 5.0 gallons (19 L) of wort that is still too hot for ideal yeast pitching: 87°F (30.5°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could then wait out the last 17 degrees F (9.5 degrees C), or also do a cold water bath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, many experienced homebrewers recommend that you use non-chlorinated or de-chlorinated, yet sanitary, water for topping off (and your boil). Chlorine in water leads to one of the most common flaws of homebrewed beer -- medicinal or chloraseptic off-flavors. You could use bottled water or reverse osmosis water, install a charcoal filter, pre-boil and chill your tap water, or use a campden tablet, to avoid chlorine in the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T11:12:05.780" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T11:12:05.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11184" CreationDate="2013-12-26T15:27:10.720" Score="1" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a pumpkin ale and added extra fermentables.  After primary and secondary was done, I went to bottle.  While bottling I tried some and noticed the alcohol level was quite high.  After two weeks in the bottles, I drank one and it was flat, I tried another and it was flat too.  Is it possible that I stressed the yeast to the point that it wouldnt consume the priming sugar for carbonating?  If so, how do I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6190" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T14:44:48.457" Title="Yeast too stressed for bottling?" Tags="|yeast|bottling|carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11213" CreationDate="2013-12-26T17:21:45.293" Score="2" ViewCount="4281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am sorry for the noob question, I'm not a beer professional, but just curious about some things :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I've seen this thing:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://heinekendraughtkeg.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://heinekendraughtkeg.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and it looks like barrel with a CO2 tube inside. But how does this work?&#xA;Is the gas from the tube mixed with the liquid when you pour from it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6191" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T20:05:37.147" Title="How is the Heineken Draughtkeg made?" Tags="|keg|co2|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11181" CreationDate="2013-12-26T23:09:02.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after looking up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/SmashingPumpkinEX.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recipe sheet for it&lt;/a&gt; off of Northern Brewer, I see that the estimated OG is 1.054.  You say you added 3 lbs of DME on top of the recipe's ingredients.  Assuming you hit the estimated OG of the recipe, we can calculate how much the DME added to it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 lbs of DME = 44 gravity points (0.044) per lbs of DME, per gallon of wort.  You say you added 3 lbs, so that's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 lbs of DME * 0.044 SG for each lbs = 0.132 SG in one gallon of wort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.132 SG / 5 gallons of wort = 0.0264 additional SG after accounting for 5 gallons of dilution&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.054 estimated OG from the recipe + 0.0264 ~= 1.080 OG of your wort after accounting for the DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we head over to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr Malty's yeast pitching calculator&lt;/a&gt; and plug in 1.080 OG at 5 gallons, it says that we need 2.8 vials of liquid yeast to ensure that it ferments fully.  I assume you pitched one vial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, yes, your yeast is stressed really bad.  I'd be willing to bet it didn't ferment all the way down to the expected FG, even with the addition of the 3 lbs of DME.  At this point, since it is already in bottles, there is no easy solution to this.  You have the following options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try and pitch a small pinch of dry yeast into each bottle and re-cap.  Problem with this is that you will likely need to go in every day or two and un-cap them, as it is likely the yeast addition will over-carbonate and cause geysers/bottle bombs if left to build up enough pressure.  I would highly advise against this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Risk oxidation by &lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt; pouring them into your bottling bucket, pitching more yeast through the use of a 1-2L 1.040 SG starter at high krausen, hoping to kick start fermentation again enough to clean up the rest of the sugars, and then attempt to re-bottle after a couple of days, more advisable than the last&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy it flat.  Which off-flavor would you like more, wet cardboard, or flat, pick your poison.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others may have more ideas on how to address this issue.  Next time, I would consider pitching more yeast if I add more sugar than the original recipe calls for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T14:14:05.067" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T14:14:05.067" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11182" CreationDate="2013-12-26T23:35:28.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It says on that site that there is a CO2 cartridge inside. That gives off gas to force the beer out. In other words, it is pretty much a self contained mini-keg as far as the gas goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T23:35:28.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-27T01:20:08.973" Score="7" ViewCount="35295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made a Belgium Ale, which was slow to start fermenting, but once it got going it finished fine.  It cleared in a secondary and was bottled using 5oz of corn sugar for the 5 gallon batch.  It's in the cellar which runs from to low to higher 60's depending on the time of day (a previous batch carbonated just fine in those conditions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After one week I open a test bottle, it has a little gas pop, tasted ok, but was flat.  Another week and the bottle popped well, was poured into a glass and got a head consistent to soda, which dissipated rapidly, leaving the beer tasting ok, but pretty flat.  It seems that CO2 is being made in the bottle, does it just take longer to go into solution? Does it just need more time to create a head?  Thanks for any insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T20:47:49.193" LastActivityDate="2020-12-26T18:24:36.463" Title="Why does my beer have carbonation but no foam head?" Tags="|carbonation|foam|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11186" CreationDate="2013-12-27T03:42:55.843" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at this BeerSmith article:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/06/25/enhancing-beer-head-retention-for-home-brewers/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/06/25/enhancing-beer-head-retention-for-home-brewers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article makes the following points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Foam is the result of CO2 bubbles rising through the beer. These bubbles attach themselves to substances in the beer and form a skin around the bubble&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Head stability depends on the presence of substances with low surface tension in the beer which can form stable elastic bubbles. The two primary contributors to head retention are certain high molecular weight proteins and isohumulones (alpha acids from hops). Therefore beers with more proteins that are highly hopped will have higher head retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glass may even be the culprit as its cleanliness may have something to do with head retention, and residual dish soap may also have an effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my experience, at least 3 weeks always gave me a nice bottle conditioned beer in which the CO2 is dissolved nicely with great head retention, although I tend to use a lot of hops in my brews.  I have also had good results with Munton's Kreamy X, which uses propylene glycol for head retention.  I've had up to a 1.5&amp;quot; head in a spotless tulip glass with a bottle conditioned beer using Kreamy X, and the head stuck around, diminishing until the last sip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T05:57:02.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11195" CreationDate="2013-12-27T05:22:21.403" Score="0" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a story of two very different pours from the same batch.  &lt;strong&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/strong&gt; the first bottle was foamy and very carbonated, the second was normal, but the first bottle went flat and was cloudy, while the second bottle was within normal range for head, carbonation, and clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Story:&lt;/strong&gt; I poured a bottle for a friend into a hand-rinsed, standard pint glass, pouring the first half down the side and the second half down the middle, being careful not to disturb or pour the lees. When I opened it, I noticed some bubbling in the neck, but no gusher. The beer was fairly foamy, very bubbly, with a head that dissipated very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I immediately opened a second bottle for myself, noticed the same bubbling, but got sidetracked and did not pour for about 10 minutes. Same type of glass and pouring technique. However, my beer had a nice head, that lasted a little while, and carbonation was normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When were about halfway through both beers at the same time, and noticed that my friend's beer had gone sort of flat with no lacing and was a little cloudy, while mine was still carbonated, and was pretty clear (you could see through it when held up to light). (By the way, the beer was somewhat green, and hopefully will benefit from more time in the bottle.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Question:&lt;/strong&gt; Is this a sign of improper carbonation, or could it be due to inadequate mixing in the fermenter before I bottled?  I.e., maybe I racked too much beer into bottles and should have left more in the fermenter. Or maybe something different? I have never had bottles that varied from bottle to bottle before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recipe ingredients and process:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belgian pale ale - all-grain: 95% Belgian pale malt, and 5% Belgian biscuit; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safbrew T-58 yeast, properly rehydrated, with est. cell counts per Mr Malty's calculator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG: 1.050 --&gt; FG: 1.010;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fermented in primary 15 days at 67°F; no secondary;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did not cold crash or use any finings, but I gingerly moved the fermenter to the counter where I was bottling about two hours before bottling;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottled straight from fermenter, and primed with exactly one Cooper's carbonation drop&#xA;per bottle;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did not feel like I was greedy about bottling too much beer, and I recall leaving quite a bit in the fermenter to avoid sediment, even pouring out the last bottle instead of capping;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottle conditioned for 14 days at 70-72°F and another six days at 67°F, both in the same sealed case box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T23:10:23.950" Title="Is this a sign of improper carbonation or improper bottling?" Tags="|bottling|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11198" CreationDate="2013-12-27T06:36:26.113" Score="1" ViewCount="2159" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cider has been fermenting for five weeks. I still notice streams of tiny bubbles when I hold a flashlight to the glass fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I threw the cider together on a whim before work one day in mid-November. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;made the cider on or around around November 18 - it is simply frozen apple juice concentrate, with no preservatives, diluted to 1.055; I am hoping for a tart, apple-y, bottle-carbonated cider that I will slightly backsweeten with xylitol or other artificial sweetener;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;followed proper sanitation procedures;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitched with 5.1 grams of Mangrove Jack M-02 cider yeast, properly rehydrated, at 70°F &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;has been fermenting at cellar temp (started at 67°F and dropped over last week to 62°F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;began fermenting vigorously at around 48 hours, vigorous fermentation slowed down after no more than eight hours, and I have been seeing tiny bubbles rising continuously since then;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a firm white yeast cake - about 1/3 inch deep;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know the current gravity, and don't intend to take a gravity reading if I can avoid it due to this being a small batch;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have never used this yeast before.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Specific gravity &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11275/stuck-fermentation-on-cider&quot;&gt;seems stuck at 5.6°Bx, so I posted another question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T06:37:13.833" Title="How long can I expect cider to keep fermenting?" Tags="|fermentation|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2013-12-27T12:50:05.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alton Brown dumps his boiling wort onto a brick of ice! Clearly there is more than one way to skin this cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Topping off is perfectly legit, however I will note that my immersion chiller is probably my single favorite purchase amongst all my gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T12:50:05.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2632" CreationDate="2013-12-27T14:38:38.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a one to one correspondence as the SRM is the absorption at 430 nm and one can calculate the density at 430 nm of a Lovibond series 52 glass. The series 52 glasses are 'made up' of Lovibond R and Y glasses and the only people who can tell you what the composition of a series 52 glass are the people at The Tintometer Ltd and they used to do this in a leaflet they included with their instruments but it was demonstrated years ago that what they publish and what they sell are different. Using the published data we can calculate the absorption of the 52 series glasses ant 430 nm and compare to the SRM. Notice that nothing has been said about path or viewing light color both of which are important in the use of a Lovinbond tintometer. We do know that Miller and Stone adjusted the SRM multiplier to get °L and SRM to agree for the light beers they studied. Doing this the formula for SRM in terms of °L is SRM = °L + 0.04662*(°L)^2 and, going in the other direction °L = 0.808*SRM - 0.0083*SRM^2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6195" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T14:38:38.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11181" CreationDate="2013-12-27T14:44:48.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I could not tell you the science or specifics, this is certainly plausible. I left a (semi crazy) ale in secondary (well tertiary I suppose) for two years once, and when I bottled I supplemented the yeast after consulting with some local experts. The primary yeast was a flavorful belgian; since all I wanted was carbonation I went with something plain (1056 or S04 IIRC). Boiled up a beer &quot;tea&quot; with the yeast, pitched it 15m after the priming sugar, let it all sit for 30-60m before bottling, and it worked great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T14:44:48.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11186" CreationDate="2013-12-27T15:16:11.267" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belgian, please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are seemingly a billion inputs to head and carbonation tendencies. Ingredients, caramelization, adjuncts, amount of sugar at bottling, glass cleanliness, brand of dishwash all contribute. As much as I hate to give such an open answer, I think the only real path is to experiment more, controlling variables between batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:16:11.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11189" CreationDate="2013-12-27T15:21:08.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sad to say, but without gravity readings we know nothing. Bubbles are strongly correlated to active fermentation but no guarantee that it is of significant measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, some buddies of mine who do cider give ridiculous cycles, up to and past five months IIRC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:21:08.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11188" CreationDate="2013-12-27T15:23:50.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is that the beer was not very uniform when bottled. Some brewers I know try to get scientific about mixing without introducing oxygen at bottle time; me I just mark the first few and last few from the batch and worry less!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:23:50.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11176" CreationDate="2013-12-27T15:29:11.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it goes wrong you end up passed out on the floor with the burner continuing to burn up your oxygen nearby. Bad, bad failure case. In terms of comparison to range, the volume is significantly more, probably orders of magnitude. All those BTUs come at a cost of danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:29:11.883" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10625" CreationDate="2013-12-27T15:31:13.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After years I decided I hated spigots anyway and replaced even my spigotted plastic buckets with solid versions. No leaks, no problems. Syphon for the win!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:31:13.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11189" CreationDate="2013-12-27T16:12:10.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bubbles really tell you nothing.  It's possible for fermentation to be finished, yet see bubbles rising due to the release of CO2 dissolved into solution during fermentation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T16:12:10.037" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11060" CreationDate="2013-12-27T19:41:42.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just finished my first batch of mead, aged for two years in carboy, racking 4-5 times total. It got to have a bit of head space, but turned out fine without any topping off. I don't have any authoritative sources, but anecdotally it can work alright without any special precautions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6196" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T19:41:42.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11188" CreationDate="2013-12-27T20:04:36.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could very well be due to fermentation problems.  Read this...it has tests that can help you diagnose the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/article/indices/35-head-retention/697-getting-good-beer-foam-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/stories/article/indices/35-head-retention/697-getting-good-beer-foam-techniques&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if it's an extract batch, keep in mind that extract beers generally have less foam.  Foam is produced by protein and a lot of protein gets removed when extract is made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T20:04:36.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11176" CreationDate="2013-12-27T21:38:43.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the danger is in the output of CO.  CO will pool on the ground rather than up to your face where you breathe.  I think the larger danger is with propane/fuel leakage, which will also pool on the floor... right where you won't be able to quickly register the odor marker and right where the source of ignition will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you had a leak at the valve that pushed volumes of propane back into a corner, while the bulk of the propane was being delivered to the burner... wait for that area behind the burner to reach a critical volume where that gas is going to push toward the flame and then... get ready to call the roofers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6048" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T21:38:43.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11176" CreationDate="2013-12-28T15:07:04.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some more trolling and found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.propane101.com/carbonmonoxideandpropane.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. In the first paragraph; &quot;Properly functioning propane appliances will produce what is called an &quot;ideal burn&quot; during combustion and present no danger of Carbon Monoxide poisoning.&quot; The article goes on to indicate the ideal burn is a blue flame. A lean or rich burn however, produces unsafe levels of CO. There are other dangers, but specifically the danger of CO poisoning and why this danger isn't present in a gas stove or heater was the point of the question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T15:07:04.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11188" CreationDate="2013-12-28T23:10:23.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You were methodical about the important aspects in your write-up, and nothing looks suspect there.  And since you primed with carbonation drops, that would rule-out non-uniform distribution of bottling sugar.  And you later said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;we sampled each other's glasses, and agreed that mine was much better than his&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it goes beyond carbonation.  Yes, less carbonation can have a bit less 'bite', but based on what I've seen here, I'd guess it was a &lt;strong&gt;non-sanitized bottle&lt;/strong&gt;, and you had some bacteria in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might turn out to be an &quot;interesting&quot; batch, since your bottling wand could have scraped a little bacteria-laced goo off of the bottom of the 30th bottle, so bottles 30 through 48 might be bad, whereas bottles 1 through 29 are good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T23:10:23.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10795" CreationDate="2013-12-28T23:39:27.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think maybe everyone in the US has a &lt;strong&gt;Dollar Tree&lt;/strong&gt; within a couple miles of them?  If so, you have a great source of bottles!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p8bxK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Three Liter Bottle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You take off the top, dump out the pop, and rack into them (they're already sanitized).  You'd need six of them for a five gallon batch (so $6).  You can re-use them.  You can also squish them, then tighten the cap (no oxygen in the head space).  I just wish they had brown ones, but alas, they do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T23:53:52.790" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T23:53:52.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-29T05:50:22.430" Score="0" ViewCount="418" Body="&lt;p&gt;So... I will just start with sharing that &quot;Hop Stained&quot; has a nice ring to it for an IPA name, but I digress to my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During my first batch, I am becoming paranoid I did not pay enough attention to cleaning throughout my boil.  I kept a bucket with sanitizer and kept all instruments in there when I wasn't using them, except my stirring spoon.  This was because I was stirring my wort nearly constantly, and after the boil and even after I cleaned the soon, there is still a green tint to it from the hops I imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal?  Does this mean I didn't clean well enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6143" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T20:26:40.690" Title="Stirring Spoon Hop Stained" Tags="|hops|wort|cleaning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11207" CreationDate="2013-12-29T08:21:47.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spoon is wood or plastic? stirring your wort or sweet liquor while boiling with a somewhat residual stain of some sort, within reason I suppose, will have no effect on the finished product. If you are worried, use a stainless spoon, great investment. Or just buy another plastic spoon, 2 bucks tops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6201" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T08:21:47.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11037" CreationDate="2013-12-29T08:39:03.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast attenuation cannot be used on its own to determine how much residual sugar, maltose is left in beer. You must take into consideration other factors, specifically the following three:&#xA;1. unfermentable sugars such as carapils, and lactose&#xA;2. Mash temperature.&#xA;3. pitch rate of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind if you use wild yeast or other bacteria all of what I am about to say is meaningless. Also simple sugar, such as table sugar and corn sugar is completely fermentable,and will muck up an attenuation calculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfermentable sugars has the greatest impact on your attenuation than any other factors. You can turn a dry stout into a sweet stout by adding lactose only. The rule of thumb i use for lactose is that whatever points of gravity lactose adds, just add it to your FG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secoondly, and the most interesting in your case I beleive, is the mash tempature. Take a look at wlp002 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp002-english-ale-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp002-english-ale-yeast&lt;/a&gt;, great yeast. Its attenuation is 65-70%. If you mash your beer at 145 F, you will achive attenuation of 70%. If you mash at 156, your attenuation will be arround 65% or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, pitching rate. If you pitch more yeast, not only will your beer ferment more quickly, you will also archive a higher attenuation, by a point or two. Conversely, if you under pitch your beer, you will get a lower attenuation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, pitch rate takes practice, and its difficult to predict what its effect is unless you brew the same beer frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6201" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T08:39:03.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11207" CreationDate="2013-12-30T04:32:10.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything somewhat porous and light colored can stain. White/light plastic often stains. White fermenting buckets often get hop stains. Wood spoons can stain also. Steel, glass and aluminum generally will not stain, although metals can get discolored for various reasons, usually having to do with oxidation. It will not affect the beer. For plastics, a good soak in hot PBW/oxiclean/oxygen cleaner solution can help lighten stains, as can a little bleach in water, but be careful to rinse thoroughly with hot water after cleaning. Also, be careful not to scrub plastic too hard, as it can leave scratches that can harbor bacteria and make sanitization difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One tip - you don't need an expensive steel mash paddle for homebrew. They look nice, but I have been using a 24&quot; stainless french whip instead of a spoon or paddle for a while, and I think it works very well for stirring and breaking up dough balls in 5 gal batches (better than a spoon or paddle). I do BIAB so I generally have a somewhat thin mash and the whip is easy on the bag. It was around $10 on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002AGX3BK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T04:32:10.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11207" CreationDate="2013-12-30T16:15:01.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, wood and plastic may stain. That doesn't mean they are not clean.&#xA;But to put your mind at ease a bit: You don't need to worry much about sanitation until your wort is cooling after your boil. Yes, you want things to be clean -- but the boil will generally take care of any bacteria that is introduced into a mash or extract before the boil starts, and nothing you would encounter in a homebrew environment will survive during the boil itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: You can get flavor from bacteria in a sour mash, but that would be something you are doing intentionally (holding the mash at a low temperature for an extended period of time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T16:15:01.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11182" CreationDate="2013-12-30T19:49:40.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKMldgrS8Bs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video showing someone taking apart a Heineken mini-keg&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, in case anyone is thinking about repurposing a Heineken mini-keg as a 5 L mini-kegging system - DON'T. You can't get that dipstick out because it is glued in, or properly sanitize that mini-keg. You can, however, repurpose mini-kegs from Bell's (Oberon) and Warsteiner (available at all Costco locations, as far as I have seen). Or you can buy them from online home brewing supply stores such as Midwest Supplies.  Instructions on mini-kegging are readily available online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T19:49:40.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11182" CreationDate="2013-12-30T20:05:37.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As beer is poured from the mini-keg, the head-space widens over time.  When the mini-keg is initially filled, the head space is so minimal that most of the CO2 that was in the beer after carbonation will remain in the solution, as there is not enough open space for the CO2 to escape the beer and equalize in the open space.  Over time and dispensing though, that air gap will widen, and the CO2 inside of the solution will begin to escape and try to equalize between the solution and the air gap.  The lower the temperature of the beer, the slower this process will go.  If enough CO2 escapes the beer to fill in the widening air gap, the beer will go &quot;flat&quot;, meaning noticeable amounts of CO2 have escaped the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heineken places the CO2 tank inside of the keg to ensure that as beer is dispensed out of the mini-keg, that the ever-expanding head space retains enough pressure to prevent the CO2 in the beer from escaping, and equalizing between the solution and the air gap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will essentially extend the shelf-life of the mini-keg after it has been opened.  Mini-kegs that do not have a CO2 tank inside need to be consumed in a short amount of time less they go flat.  This can be enjoyed over a longer period of time since the CO2 tank will ensure that the solution remains carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T20:05:37.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2644" CreationDate="2013-12-31T00:22:26.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't panic.  Taste the beer.  If it tastes like beer, it's probably ok.  If it doesn't taste like beer, but not bad, you can do a couple of things.  ONE:  do nothing, bottle it, and wait to see how it matures.  TWO:  drop 2-3 campden tablets to sterilize the beer, then prime and bottle.  THREE:  Pasteurize, then add a little more malt and repitch with some fresh yeast, continue as if it were a new batch.  Think about what you do and enjoy your brews.  Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6210" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T00:22:26.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7887" CreationDate="2013-12-31T05:35:52.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @hartski that it's mainly a matter of adding enough maple syrup (like a pound or more), similar to adding honey; and that maple wood flavor, although nice, is not like maple syrup flavor. If you have a membership at a warehouse store you can get a big bottle for not too much money (like Costco). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a significantly cheaper alternative which will avoid the issue of adding sugars and get you maple flavor is to use maple flavoring. It comes as an extract in both natural and artificial varieties. Flavorings are often used by homebrewers and commercial breweries, and are common in certain recipes, e.g. hazelnut-flavored beers or watermelon wheats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you search for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=maple%20flavoring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;maple flavoring&lt;/a&gt; you will find many options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you've never used flavorings, you want to add a few drops at a time when bottling or kegging. Use a sanitized medicine dropper, pipette or syringe used for liquid children's or pet medicine (I use a syringe). This is difficult, kind of an art rather than a science. Your palette can get fatigued very quickly - less is more. Some vanilla extract could also balance out the maple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A split batch is also an option, some with flavoring some without, to compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure Rogue's hazelnut brown ale uses this method, and I like that beer. Southern Tier seems to do this in several of their flavored beers, e.g. their Imperial Pumking and Creme Brulee imperial stout, but I'm not a huge fan of those, I think they a strong buttery flavor (maybe they use butter flavor too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more info, there's several other questions on the site about adding flavoring extracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-01-03T05:09:43.310" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T05:09:43.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11217" CreationDate="2013-12-31T06:46:16.813" Score="1" ViewCount="16503" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing my first batch ever, and got a little worried that it wasn't bubbling after 24 hours as the instructions said it should. I've read a lot on here that says not to worry about a bubbling airlock, but I do have a question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does seem to be fermenting, it's been 2 days. I can see a krausen through the plastic. And today I noticed the airlock is indeed pressurized. The instructions called to fill the airlock about halfway. I missed the mark and filled it about three quarters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now here's the thing. I can clearly see there is pressure in the bucket. I can press on the lid, and see the airlock bubble. When I stop pressing on the lid, the airlock equalizes, then shortly shows pressure in the fermenter again. Yet I see no bubbling. Could this be due to the fact the airlock is filled too much? Has anyone else seen this kind of behaviour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, thanks to all of the people on here, it's relieved many worries, with the simple DWHAHB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;It's a 5 gallon batch in a 6 gallon white plastic bucket. I put a flashlight on the lid, turned off the lights, and could distinctly see different light levels, dark at the 5 gallon mark, kinda chunky brown about an inch and a half above that, and empty above that. Three piece airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT2&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Checked the gravity tonight, and found 1.007. So I think it's done. Perhaps I had a leak on the lid, perhaps I just didn't notice it fermented in the day I was at work. In either case, I've put it in the secondary fermenter (yes, I know it's not necessary, but I want to clear it up a bit). I smelled it, and it smells almost like Sierra Nevada Torpedo, tasted it, and I can clearly taste the hops flavor and bitterness. It seems it turned out okay. I'll check the gravity again on Sunday, and if unchanged, bottle it. FWIW original gravity was 1.058, but that could be off, it was hard to measure around the froth after transferring to the primary fermenter. Either way, I'm within 0.005 of the kits specs, so I think I'm good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOOD! I made Beer! Sorry, this is fun&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2014-01-04T07:27:15.233" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T20:53:41.890" Title="filling the airlock" Tags="|fermentation|airlock|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11216" CreationDate="2013-12-31T07:35:03.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, I don't think the fill level on an airlock is going to prevent bubbling.  Short answer, but I don't think there is more to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I found time to respond in more detail.  I experienced the same thing (no bubbling, but pressing on lid squeezes out bubbles) in two-gallon bucket fermenters, so I looked carefully at the airlocks to see if over- or under-filling was the problem. I am convinced that the pressure of newly-formed CO2 in an fermenter can easily push through an airlock, no matter the fill level. I am not a scientist, but my reasoning is because the pressure needed to push a bubble through the airlock is correlated to the height of the column of water, as I understand it. A 1/2-inch difference in water height in the 3-piece airlock is negligible (see table below). In fact, it is amazing to me how little pressure is necessary in the fermenter vessel to get the airlock bubbling. In your case, as others have suggested, the problem is likely that the pressure needed to leak out the bucket lid is even less than pushing through the airlock. &lt;em&gt;I would be happy to be corrected if my math or science is wrong.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;H20(inches) Atmospheres        PSI (lbs)&#xA;&#xA;0.0          1.00000           14.6959488&#xA;&#xA;1.0          1.00252           14.7329826&#xA;&#xA;1.5          1.00378           14.7514995&#xA;&#xA;2.0          1.00504           14.7700164&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2:&lt;/strong&gt; This is a little oversimplified, because the air pressure in the fermenter also has to float the middle piece of the three-piece airlock before CO2 bubbles can be released, and the pressure of that is a function of the weight of the middle piece and its buoyancy in water. So the &quot;cracking pressures&quot; listed in the above table are a low by a margin.  However, overfilling the airlock is likely to &lt;em&gt;decrease&lt;/em&gt; the pressure needed for a bubble because the middle piece will be more buoyant in deeper water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2013-12-31T16:27:04.663" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T16:27:04.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11216" CreationDate="2013-12-31T09:08:06.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are using a white plastic HDPE bucket, not a carboy, then I'm not sure how you saw the krausen. Assuming you opened the bucket lid to see the krausen then you would have released some of the CO2 in the headspace. For bubbling to occur, the headspace must be full of CO2. In general, opening the bucket lid before 48 hours is a bad idea, unless you have access to a CO2 tank and can add CO2 back into the headspace, because you're exposing the fermenting wort to air, which can lead to oxidization (or worse, infection). Having the airlock filled too much will not stop it from bubbling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also assuming you have a 3-piece airlock, it's possible (however unlikely) that the floating bell piece is stuck, but again, unlikely, and I've never seen this. It's very common for airlocks to show little to no visible bubbling, as you'll see in many other questions (seems like you know this from your question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to truly know if your beer is fermenting is to take gravity readings and compare them to the original gravity, but I don't do this until it has had 5-7 days to ferment (especially if you saw a krausen or bubbles in the wort).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing the type of fermenter, type of airlock, original gravity, type of yeast, etc. would all be helpful in providing a more detailed answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a big proponent of answering questions with &quot;RDWHAHB&quot;, but when it comes to fermentation, generally the more you worry and mess with it, the more problems you expose yourself to. This isn't always the case, and calculated risks/modifications can fix/improve things sometimes (e.g. adding more yeast, changing temperature, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T09:08:06.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11220" CreationDate="2014-01-01T12:42:56.413" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;Previously, I made cherry liqueur. Beyond that, I do not have much experiance about homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I want to make coffee liqueur, but I have no idea how to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need help with the ingredients and and brewing proccess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2403" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T04:03:57.680" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T04:03:57.680" Title="Home-made coffee liqueur" Tags="|first-time-brewer|brewing|liquor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11219" CreationDate="2014-01-01T16:21:25.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are literally dozens of recipes on the Internet, with photos and set by step instructions.  You might find this one particularly useful: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.macheesmo.com/2009/11/homemade-coffee-liqueur/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.macheesmo.com/2009/11/homemade-coffee-liqueur/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6098" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T16:21:25.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4492" CreationDate="2014-01-01T17:08:29.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm seeing the exact same situation with a Belgium Ale.  Granted, very early in the bottle conditioning it was like a soda, fizz, then nothing in a matter of seconds, flat, flat beer.  It got better with time, a little bit of a head, but pretty much flat, now about three weeks out, a decent head and better carbonation, so, I'm holding out hope with more time.  They don't package patience with beer kits!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T17:08:29.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11224" CreationDate="2014-01-01T18:10:34.987" Score="0" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;my first batch was a little tricky, lots of mistakes made. Ive got some questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a Pale Ale (US-05) (6.5 pounds of Pilsen malt - 1.5 pound of Carared - 1 pound of Oat Malt - 0.8 pounds of Crystal 50 malt - 0.4 pounds of Flaked oats), &lt;strong&gt;OG 1052 and FG 1017&lt;/strong&gt;, did a hop stand with around 4oz. &lt;strong&gt;Beer sample tasted strange, not even close to a medium bodied beer, not sweet despite the FG.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its quite bitter and with lots of hop flavor, which would be pleasant, but its not. It was a &lt;strong&gt;5gal&lt;/strong&gt; batch but I ended up with &lt;strong&gt;only 3.9gal&lt;/strong&gt; in primary fermentor. Beersmith said IBU would be 40, but since I got less beer, it &lt;strong&gt;will be more bitter, correct?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It fermented for &lt;strong&gt;10 days in 68ºF&lt;/strong&gt;. Secondary temperature is &lt;strong&gt;42ºF&lt;/strong&gt;. Is that right? How long should I leave it there to build body and malt flavor? Since it is already pretty hopped, with strange hop characteristics (well, I used 8 types of hops... dumb thing), should I dry hop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been at 42F for 4 days now... Can I raise it to 65ºF without any bad consequences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot for the attention, fellow homebrewers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6216" LastEditorUserId="6216" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T03:57:03.520" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T03:57:03.520" Title="Newbie brewer: beer sample tastes strange" Tags="|beer|secondary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3447" CreationDate="2014-01-01T18:34:22.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told to run the water through my Britta pitcher 2 times and let it sit out.&#xA;I also have a water purifier for all water and  then use water from refrigerator which is also purified. Then I let it sit out for 24 hours. I hope this is sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6217" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T18:34:22.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11222" CreationDate="2014-01-01T20:34:57.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I would not necessarily draw any conclusions from a sample of unfermented wort or unconditioned beer. The &quot;green&quot; beer rarely has the same taste, complexity, etc. I get after patiently letting the beer condition. Some flavors are metabolized by the yeast or otherwise go away during conditioning, while other flavors are able to then come out (or develop). Nevertheless, I find it useful to sample green beer as a learning experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concentrated wort will not necessarily be more bitter (but it may be). Perception of bitterness varies based on a lot of factors, not merely the number of IBUs, or concentration of alpha acids and other bittering compounds. One of the major factors is residual sweetness from unfermented sugars. When you concentrate your wort, you concentrate both the hop compounds and the unfermented sugars -- I am not sure how that will affect your perception of bitterness (how the balance will go).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, you may not want to transfer the beer at all to a secondary fermenter. You can find threads on this forum debating that point, but in short the tradeoff is between risk of oxidizing your beer or introducing contaminants vs. limited to no benefits in terms of getting the beer off of the yeast cake and perhaps aiding in clarity. I would advise a new homebrewer to avoid secondary because your lack of practice in transfer and sanitation technique makes the bad risks more likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, temperature for &quot;secondary fermentation&quot; (or continued conditioning in the primary fermenter) is not dependent on whether you transfer to a fermenter.  It depends on your style of beer, yeast, etc. For a pale ale, I would try to stay at 60-65°F, but it depends a bit on your yeast strain. 42°F seems like a lagering temp to me, and it is likely to put your yeast to sleep, rather than have them actively continue to work on the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth, as far as &quot;building&quot; malt or body, all the malt or body you were going to have was there at the end of the boil. But maltier flavors and perception of body may come to the fore after conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, as far as dry hopping, it is a matter of personal preference. I would lay off of it, given that it seems like a high ratio of IBUs to gravity and you already say it is very hoppy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, I am concerned that your fermentation is not complete if you finished at 1.017. What yeast did you use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T00:14:29.453" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T00:14:29.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-01T22:49:55.497" Score="3" ViewCount="10841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mead that I think has too high of an acid level.  I am looking for ways to raise the pH or lower the acidity&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roughly 7 months ago, I made a 5 gal batch of mead.  The original fermentation got stuck, so I added some FermaidK based upon the local brew shop's recommendation.  Initial OG was 1.116, and I added FermaidK at 1.088 and again at 1.042.  I can't find the measurement prior to racking, but I think it was around 1.002.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after sitting for about 6 months in the carboy, the clarity is pretty decent but the mead has a pretty boozy aroma to it.  I haven't had many meads, so I don't know how to describe the flavor.  It was tasty enough, but perhaps seems really bright.  Drinkable but not quite amazing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used an acid titration kit to measure the acid level.  With 15 cc of my mead and 3 drops of phenolphthalein, it took 7.5 cc of .2N sodium hydroxide to trigger the color change.  According to the instructions I have, that's a .75% tartaric acid level but the recommended range for mead is .30 - .50%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to do anything to lower the acid level / raise the pH of my mead?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If so, what should I use given that I'm essentially ready to bottle excepting this possible acid level issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant questions I found on Homebrewing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/6516/6218&quot;&gt;How can I raise my mash pH with something other than chalk or baking soda?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was probably the most relevant, but I have no idea what will happen to the flavor profile if I add calcium hydroxide (pickling lime) to my mead.  The OP on this question was adding at the beginning of the brew process, whereas I'm at the end of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/7128/6218&quot;&gt;How do I un-stuck a mead&amp;#39;s fermentation?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was also relevant and suggested using calcium carbonate, but again the OP was at an earlier stage in the brewing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/5131/6218&quot;&gt;How to correct Mead with too much citrus?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was somewhat relevant, but I didn't add any citrus to my mead for flavoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;sub&gt;Yes, I'm a bit of a noob in this matter, my apologies for using the terms a little too interchangeably.  Thank you to Tobias Patton for helping clarify the difference&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user6218" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T13:26:28.800" Title="How to raise pH (or lower acidity) of mead" Tags="|mead|troubleshooting|acidity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11227" CreationDate="2014-01-02T15:30:14.127" Score="5" ViewCount="1981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the home brew scene, and I've made a couple of extract brews from recipes in the beginners books that I own, so I've decided it's time to move on to attempting my own recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make a Black IPA, but I don't want to blindly follow a recipe. What I did was looked through some of the recipes up on beersmith and found one that looked promising. Then I looked up a few clones of my favorite IPAs (Lagunitas and Modus Hoperandi). I took the grain bill from the Black IPA and the hops profiles from the other IPA's, made some minor modifications with beersmith to achieve gravity, color, and IBU that I thought sounded good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My worry is that I'll just end up with something more like an imperial stout. I'm still really getting used to which ingredients affect the beer in certain ways, so I'm not sure how this recipe will end up. Take a look and let me know what you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Specialty Grains:&#xA;8 oz Black Patent Malt&#xA;8 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine&#xA;8 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L&#xA;8 oz Pale Malt (2 Row)&#xA;4 oz Roasted Barley&#xA;&#xA;Extracts:&#xA;1 lb Light Dry Extract&#xA;6 lb Dark Liquid Extract&#xA;3 lb Lyle's Golden Syrup&#xA;&#xA;Hops:&#xA;1 oz Columbus (60min)&#xA;1 oz Horizon (60min)&#xA;0.75 oz Summit (60min)&#xA;1.25 oz Willamette (30min)&#xA;0.75 oz Centennial (30min)&#xA;1 oz Cascade (1min)&#xA;&#xA;Dry Hop:&#xA;3 oz Cascade (5 days)&#xA;1 oz Centennial (5 days)&#xA;&#xA;OG: 1.075&#xA;ABV: 7.4%&#xA;IBU: 68&#xA;Color: 34 SRM&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6220" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T17:28:22.783" Title="Help keeping Black IPA from becoming Imperial Stout" Tags="|recipe|ipa|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11226" CreationDate="2014-01-02T16:56:10.417" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a lot of experience with recipe design, but I can provide some links.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this excellent 2010 &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/2013-birth-of-a-new-style-cascadian-dark-ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article from Brew Your Own magazine on Black IPAs&lt;/a&gt;. It says that the Great American Beer Festival adopted that style as &quot;American-Style India Black Ale&quot;, and  the characteristics are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color = 25+ SRM   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Original Gravity = 1.056–1.075 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Final Gravity = 1.012–1.018 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bitterness = 50–70 IBU  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alcohol by volume = 6–7.5%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BYO seems to suggest you should replace your black malt and roast barley with debittered black malt.&lt;/strong&gt; I also found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beerbirrabier.com/2011/09/revised-bjcp-guidelines-for-ipa.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this blogger's article on a hypothetical splitting of the pale ale styles&lt;/a&gt;, including his/her interpretation of a new black IPA category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BJCP has not added a Black IPA category yet, AFAIK, but can check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style13.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP Style Guidelines for Russian Imperial Stouts (Category 13.F.)&lt;/a&gt; to make sure you aren't straying too far into that area. Seems like there is some overlap between the GABF's black IPA description and BJCP's RIS, and you are in the intersection in terms of metrics. But at the end of the day, what difference does it make how the beer would be categorized if you achieve the flavor and other characteristics that you desire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, as a fan of Black IPAs, I differentiate black IPA from RIS by prominent American aroma and flavor hops (citrus/pine notes), roasty and coffee flavors being muted despite the darkness, and no alcohol heat or vinous character. Maybe look to commercial examples for inspiration - my own models would be 21st Amendment's Back in Black (first one I had, so it defines the style for me), New Glarus' Blacktop, and Lakefront's IBA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't it nice to be able to brew what you want and have fun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T18:59:07.313" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T18:59:07.313" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="43" CreationDate="2014-01-02T21:13:41.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple ideas to save a little per batch: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PBW costs a fortune per lb. If you buy 50 lbs. at a time, it is cheapest. Buy in bulk with some friends? Also, the 5-lb. container from Midwest Supplies is pretty close to that per-pound price, if you can get free shipping. Or forgo PBW and get by with much-cheaper Oxyclean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you don't need five gallons of Star-San for a batch. I get by with two gallons, and use a needle-less syringe (get free from pharmacy - it is used for administering liquid tylenol to toddlers) to mix smaller amounts at a ratio of 5 ml per gallon of pure water. I could probably get by with one gallon if I was judicious about my use. Or you can save Star-San in a sealed five-gallon bucket -- it lasts a long time if you use soft water to make it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T21:13:41.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11225" CreationDate="2014-01-02T21:32:38.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to remove acidity from wine without affecting the flavour. You can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brsquared.org/wine/Articles/deacid.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;add salts&lt;/a&gt; (calcium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate) to remove some acidity but this is considered a &quot;last resort&quot; solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.honey.com/images/downloads/ph-acidsinhoney.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This PDF&lt;/a&gt; claims that honey contains malic acid, though it doesn't give a breakdown. It does, however, indicate that gluconic acid is the primary organic acid, so malic must compose less that 50% of the organic acids. You could try introducing bacteria to initiate &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malolactic_fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;malolactic fermentation&lt;/a&gt;, which reduces hard malic acid to the more palatable lactic. This won't reduce the titratable acidity of the wine, but will make the flavour less tart. Both &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hw_productdetail.cfm?ProductID=19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WYeast&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/wine/malolactic-bacteria&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs&lt;/a&gt; sell cultures of malolactic bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try cold-stabilizing the mead, as this can cause tartaric acid to drop out of solution, lowering the overall acidity.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T13:26:28.800" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T13:26:28.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10935" CreationDate="2014-01-03T01:11:42.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to make Grappa or the like, crushed mash makes excellent compost. I remember taking wheel barrows full to the garden for my grandfather each year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T01:11:42.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2014-01-03T01:15:29.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put mine out around the birdfeeder, they acted like they were at a banquet, it was gone in about two hours. (1 lb from an grain-extract kit)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T01:15:29.997" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-01-03T01:15:29.997" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11225" CreationDate="2014-01-03T01:19:46.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent a fair amount of time researching my predicament, so I thought I would capture the highlights with respect to my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note, CMM below refers to &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/0937381802&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the compleat MeadMaker&lt;/a&gt; by Ken Schramm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewangels.com/Beerformation/Mead-Notes-For-Noobs.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;useful PDF&lt;/a&gt; which has some notes compiled from CMM.  The notes have a few errors, so I would refer to CMM prior to relying upon the notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need to do anything to lower the acid level / raise the pH of my mead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe, maybe not.  Chapter 5, page 68 of CMM says meads with 0.8 - 0.9% acidity tend to be overly tart.  As my mead is sitting at .75% and doesn't taste &lt;em&gt;overly tart&lt;/em&gt;, patience may be more important than futzing with what's there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CMM also has an interesting bit about getting an incorrect acidity reading that ends up being too high due to gluconolactone converting to gluconic acid.  So my measurement may have actually been high from the actual acidity level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If so, what should I use given that I'm essentially ready to bottle excepting this possible acid level issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regrettably, there aren't many options here.  They boil down to (pun intended):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sweetening  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Malo-lactic fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I commit to either of those, CMM chapter 6: &lt;code&gt;Conditioning, Aging, and Using Oak&lt;/code&gt; indicates that a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; more patience on my part is required.  It is Schramm's opinion that many meads don't really reach peak drinkability until they have aged for at least a year and perhaps two.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding some oak chips for a brief period (one or two weeks, maybe four) may also enhance the flavor profile of my mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://winemakermag.com/526-my-wine-tastes-tart-and-i-think-there-is-too-much-acid-any-suggestions-to-correct-this-problem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Q&amp;amp;A blog on brewing&lt;/a&gt; that had an additional bit of insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;De-acidifying chemically is seen as sort of a last resort. It can be done by adding potassium bicarbonate powder at a rate of 2 g/L for a TA reduction of 1 g/L (estimated).  …  Always de-acidify before pitching your yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, that helped confirm that any chemical changes to pH needed to be done prior to fermentation.  For post fermentation changes, blending with a milder batch was the recommended route.  Not quite feasible in my case since I only have the one batch of mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the Magic 8-ball answer in this case is &quot;Uncertain, ask again later.&quot;  &lt;code&gt;Time&lt;/code&gt; seems to be the critical ingredient that my brew is lacking and I need to put a fair amount more time and patience into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'll wait another 3 - 4 months and sample again.  If I feel the brew is still off, then I'll consider sweetening what I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An update from several months down the road - Time was the critical ingredient in getting everything to mellow.  Due to this, that, and the other, I didn't end up bottling the mead until November of 2014.  At that point in time, the clarity was about as perfect as one could ask for and the bright flavors had mellowed off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have shared that brew with several who are experienced mead makers and drinkers.  It's certainly a strong (high alcohol) brew, but the flavors are well balanced.  Again, time was the essential factor for completing this brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user6218" LastEditorDisplayName="user6218" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T14:15:51.117" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T14:15:51.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2706" CreationDate="2014-01-03T06:05:53.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to try using bread yeast as a starter and let my gruit get additional yeast from the air.  Making a rice and barley gruit with coffee and bananas.  I'll see how that tastes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6223" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T06:05:53.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9309" CreationDate="2014-01-03T15:43:51.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One comment from a production point of view. Pellets are just a cleaner and more homogenized version of leafs. During production process we reduce dust, nuts, seeds and other impurities. On the other hand we standarize quality eg moisture and alfa-acids content, so dosing is really much easier and reliable. We are producing high-quality pellets from Polish varieties: Lubelski, Marynka, Sybilla, Iunga etc. Please check more details at: scfnatural.pl&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6225" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T15:43:51.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-04T06:00:09.167" Score="3" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently moved to a house on a well and not too long after discovered our entire area has a bacterial iron problem. We have the standard water softener and it does a fairly good job of cutting down on off flavors but still have the problems you should expect with bacterial iron; some sludge forms in the toilet tanks and there is still a odor to the water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, if I buy water or get a fancy filter I wouldn't have this problem, but I want to know if anyone has brewed with water contaminated with bacterial iron? And if so what are the effects on flavor and maybe mouthfeel. And I am really curious if anyone has had experience aging a beer brewed with this. I am assuming the boil would take care of the problem but I got to throw this out for a some feedback.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T09:00:07.510" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T18:19:55.907" Title="Will Bacterial Iron affect my beer?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11238" CreationDate="2014-01-04T07:31:15.883" Score="2" ViewCount="1021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just transferred my brew to the secondary fermenter (yes, it's not necessary, but I want to help clarify the brew). Where we live, we have a septic tank sewer. I was just wondering if there could be any ill effects of rinsing the yeast cake from the primary down the drain into the septic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps it would turn the septic into beer? Perhaps it would overflow up into the pipes in the house? Perhaps it could help the spetic in breaking down its (excuse the pun) crap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone done this, and noticed any ill effects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I've already rinsed it down the drain, so if no answers come up, I'll update with anything that happens here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T01:05:24.410" Title="Yeast cake and Septic tank" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11256" CreationDate="2014-01-04T07:53:01.197" Score="2" ViewCount="855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read the answers on how to sanitize bottles while bottling [&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1205/wiki-bottle-sanitizing-techniques-pros-cons?rq=1&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;] but my question is this... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should you cap a bottle right after filling it, or can you fill say 6 bottles, cap them, then put them in a six-pack holder and put away, and continue? I guess my real question is what is the best rhythm when having to bottle about 50 from a 5 gallon batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that 50ish bottles will get tiresome, I'm just wondering what systems others have discovered in their time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T21:06:35.310" Title="Bottling Rhythm and efficiency" Tags="|bottling|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-01-16T00:49:45.533" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11236" CreationDate="2014-01-04T07:55:33.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been doing it for several years with no ill effects that I'm aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say RDWHAHB and DYYC (dump your yeast cake).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T07:55:33.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11149" CreationDate="2014-01-04T08:04:38.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't find a clone recipe online, and have never tasted the beer.  I would guess that some or all of the vanilla flavor came from aging on oak. I would try light toasted French Oak cubes as part of the recipe.  I have heard that cloning a beer can take many, many attempts to get right, but you have a ton of information to start.  Personally, I would start by trying to contact the brewer and see if they can give you some tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T08:04:38.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4436" CreationDate="2014-01-04T08:10:59.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW I haven't even gotten to bottling yet, but my plan is this. I have a wooden 'cube' normally used as a foot stool, open on one side. I'm going to take the cube, turn it open side up, and stack my bottles in it. The cube is about 30 inches, so I'll line the bottom with bottles, lay down some cardboard, and line with another layer of bottles. If I do have a bottle bomb, the mess should be contained in the cube, and if I simply cover it with a sheet, all the glass should be contained as well. Just my 2 cents... we'll see what actually happens when a bomb goes off in the cube..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T08:10:59.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-04T09:03:39.393" Score="0" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making mini batches with IPAs(4-5 liters/ca 1,5 gallon), and with my three first brews I've used dry yeast. On my next mini batch I'll use liquid yeast(WLP005), do I need to make a starter or is the batch small enough to just put the yeast in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also read that if the O.G. is at a certain level I need to make a starter. How do I know the O.G. level without starting making my brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6229" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T09:54:33.133" Title="Liquid yeast, do need to make a starter?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|original-gravity|ipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11241" CreationDate="2014-01-04T09:54:33.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need a starter since you're pitching to 1/4 batch size that a whitelabs vial is good for. Normally you'd use 2-4 vials for a 20 liter batch, depending upon gravity, so that's equivalent to 1/2 to 1 a vial for a 5 liter batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the detailed figures, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7483/always-making-a-starter-vs-following-package-description/7485#7485&quot;&gt;Always making a starter vs. following package description&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to know the OG prior to brewing is to use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtoad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recipe calculator&lt;/a&gt;. You're not looking for an exact OG - a ballpark figure of +/- 4SG/1 brix is fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T09:54:33.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11249" CreationDate="2014-01-04T10:11:13.747" Score="1" ViewCount="7728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to home-brewing. I want to brew some liqueurs but since I am a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diabetes_mellitus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;diabetic&lt;/a&gt;, I can not use normal sugar in brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My option is using &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diabetes_mellitus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sugar substitutes&lt;/a&gt; (like artificial sweeteners) like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugar_substitute&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Splenda&lt;/a&gt; (I use Splenda since it is a well-known brand). Some of those sweeteners are fructose, that means they are produced using fruits or have some fruit or some other (strange) artificial taste. Also some brands have Sucralose and can be boiled up to a limited degree etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is anybody tried to use these instead of normal sugar. Is there anything that I must be careful while preparing liqueur  with sugar substitutes? My concern is about using them in liqueurs, not their pitfalls (like maximum boiling temp). Using a fructose (fruit) based sweetener effects the brewing process and ruined the brewing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2403" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T16:44:09.287" Title="Using Sugar substitutes (artificial sweeteners) instead of sugar" Tags="|ingredients|first-time-brewer|liquor|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11243" CreationDate="2014-01-04T16:35:24.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the reason for using sugar is not to sweeten the beer or add flavor but to lighten the body and increase the alcohol.  If the subs you want to use are 100% fermentable, they should work the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T16:35:24.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11246" CreationDate="2014-01-04T19:26:49.650" Score="0" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing my very first steeping brew (2nd brew ever), and I've got about 3 lbs of specialty grains total that go into my recipe.  I've lightly crushed the grains, and I'm ready to put them in the steeping bag(s), but I'm not sure how much should go in each bag.  should I just put all of it in one bag, use a different bag for each grain, or just split it in half so there's more contact to the water?  Thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6220" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T20:06:20.600" Title="How much specialty grain should you use in each steeping bag?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|steeping|specialty-grains|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11245" CreationDate="2014-01-04T20:06:20.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no need to split each grain into its own bag, unless you want to remove them at different time intervals for whatever reason (hint: you don't. ;)  If they'll all comfortably fit in one bag, great.  If not split them up.  Maximizing water contact is … probably negligible, here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T20:06:20.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11237" CreationDate="2014-01-05T00:25:00.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use swing top bottles that I can close with one hand while filling the next one. Sometimes I have too much foam in the bottle and let it sit open for a few minutes and then top it off. In my experience that does not hurt. If you're paranoid about oxygen damaging your new beer, you should probably cap quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T00:25:00.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11248" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-05T03:18:41.560" Score="0" ViewCount="516" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this is my first batch ever. My starting gravity was 1.058 7 days ago. My gravity yesterday was 1.007. Both within range for the recipe kit. I measured again today and got 1.011 in a beer thief. Also, I transferred to a secondary yesterday after taking the reading. Why would the gravity go up, and is this within an acceptable margin of error? I'd like to bottle tomorrow, since I won't have time again until next weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T04:16:08.923" Title="final gravity margin of error" Tags="|first-time-brewer|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11243" CreationDate="2014-01-05T03:33:45.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt;: I am neither a medical doctor, nor an expert on making liquor or on this kind of brewing, nor a scientist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I am not sure this will work for you, in my uneducated opinion, unless you plan to use only fructose in your liquor.  (I am assuming that fructose is safer for diabetics, and you are OK ingesting it, even though I believe the jury is still out in terms of the advisability of long-term use of fructose by diabetics.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: The brewing (and liquor-making) process works by having brewer's yeast or  distiller's yeast 'eat' sugars, with the major byproducts being alcohol and carbon dioxide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem 1: The types of sugars that brewer's and distiller's yeast generally eat are the same types of sugars that provoke insulin response in diabetics - monosaccharide sugars (glucose, fructose, and galactose), and some disaccharide sugars (such as sucrose and maltose). They do not ferment sugar substitutes such as aspartame, sucralose, stevia, saccharine, cyclamate, sorbitol, xylitol, other sugar alcohols, or acesulfame potassium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem 2: Yeast also do not fully metabolize all sugars even if they are the kind they eat, and they leave behind sugars that would be a dietary risk for diabetics. It is common for them to leave behind 20% or more of sugars in beer and undistilled liquor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So maybe you can make a liquor with no malted barley or other malted grains, and only fructose in solution with some sort of liquid (mix pure fructose in water). You could ferment it with brewer's yeast or  distiller's yeast (e.g, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/alcotec-24-hour-turbo-yeast-205-grams.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;alcotec turbo yeast&lt;/a&gt;). Not sure how that will taste. My wild guess is that you will end up with a pretty harsh liquor that is up to 14 percent alcohol, depending on how much fructose you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, I also not versed in liquor laws, and this is not legal advice, but I believe that federal law prohibits home distillation of liquor without a permit. Making of beer and wine at home for household use is permitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: Thus, the issue is not whether you can cook sugar substitutes and put them in a beer/liquor-making process. But rather that the yeast will not ferment sugar substitutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T03:33:45.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11248" CreationDate="2014-01-05T04:16:08.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specific gravity will never increase while a beer is fermenting, or after a beer has finished fermenting. One of the readings must have been in error. I suspect the first reading of 1.007, as this would be 100% * (58-7) / 58 = 87.9% attenuation, which is suspiciously high. The reading of 1.011 yields an attenuation of 81%, which is more within reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a few ways a hydrometer reading can be off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Temperature. Hydrometers are calibrated to a specific temperature, as the density of water changes with temperature. If the beer was much warmer for the first reading than the second, this could be a factor. However, a 4 point difference in SG would require a very large difference in temperature, so I don't expect this is the source of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bubbles of carbon dioxide can adhere to the hydrometer, lifting it in the sample tube, and giving a higher reading than reality. You can avoid this by de-gassing the sample before taking your reading. Repeatedly pour the sample between two glasses until it stops foaming, and then take your reading.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Operator error. You could have just read the wrong number of the hydrometer, or recorded it wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, your beer has probably stopped fermenting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But&lt;/strong&gt; it's not ready for bottling yet. Even though the fermentation is likely complete, the yeast will continue working over the next couple of weeks to improve the flavour of the beer. Leave it in secondary for another couple of weeks before bottling, and your beer will taste much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T04:16:08.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11237" CreationDate="2014-01-05T04:55:36.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to bottle with my neighbor, if possible. Here is the bottling day routine that we are still working on (when bottling from a bottling bucket):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the bucket on the counter. Use a white towel as a background, so you can see the level inside the bottles, and it is available to mop up disasters. Turn on all the lights for the same reason. Use a bottling wand, and cut your tubing very short, so the wand hangs down in mid-air. Before filling, have a fastrack of empty bottles and a tupperware container of bottle caps in star-san to one side, and one the others side have space to put filled bottles. To fill: grab an empty, lift it to the bottling wand to fill (when you lower a bottle to stop filling, you don't need a hand on the bottling wand, tubing, clamp, etc.) Place a crown on each filled bottle and set to the side. When you have a bunch of filled bottles, move them to the counter, and crimp the crowns with a butterfly-style capper. Return to filling. When finished filling and capping, rinse spilled beer off of any bottles (keep fruit flies down and nasties down), dry them, and seal in case box(es). Label the box(es) with batch #, beer style, bottling date, and the date that is three weeks. Condition for two weeks in the spare shower, and then move to cellar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least, that is the theory. In practice, there are always a few kinks. I think we need to add a tarp, because it feels like I end up spot-mopping stickiness from the floor for days after bottling day. Also, per a suggestion in this forum, we need to start marking the first few, the last few, and any bottles with process abnormalities, to help us sleuth beer problems - maybe keep a few pieces of pre-cut, colored tape on hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T04:55:36.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-05T06:42:12.450" Score="1" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made Cherry ale around Christmas for several years.  This year I forgot to add the cherry extract at the 2nd fermentation, so I added it when I added the sugar prior to bottling.  Will this affect the taste?  could it have effect on carbonation?  My beer this year is flat and has an aftertaste that I don't like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6232" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-01-12T09:17:56.570" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T09:17:56.570" Title="Adding cherry extract at bottling time?" Tags="|fruit-extract|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-05T13:07:22.687" Score="1" ViewCount="4712" Body="&lt;p&gt;My ale batch (US-05) was &lt;strong&gt;fermented&lt;/strong&gt; at &lt;em&gt;68ºF for 11 days&lt;/em&gt;, when I removed the sediment and moved it to a &lt;strong&gt;Secondary Fermentation&lt;/strong&gt; with a much lower temperature &lt;em&gt;(41ºF) for a week now&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since yeast has to be active in order to refine the beer taste (which is kind of the point of secondary fermentation), I wonder if it would be useful to increase temperature now, back to around 70ºF. I dread letting all the last week work, which is creating cold break and more sediment, will be lost (or: will the sediment go back to the beer?). Could I add some table sugar to help the yeast get back to life a little bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, can I just bottle right now and let the yeast do its work inside bottle, with the help of prime sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you fellow homebrewers think? I will add the hops for dry hopping now. Can I increase the temperature either way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thaks a lot :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6216" LastEditorUserId="6216" LastEditDate="2014-01-05T13:15:42.687" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T09:40:01.113" Title="Can I increase secondary fermentation temperature after a week?" Tags="|fermentation|temperature|secondary|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11237" CreationDate="2014-01-05T15:46:03.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use what would probably be called the &quot;batch sanitize&quot; method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill your bottling bucket with five or six gallons of sanitizer solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain the bucket using both your auto siphon and bottling wand for at least the minimum time dictated by your sanitizing agent into a 4-6 gallon Rubbermaid. I can usually fit 10-12 12-oz or 7 bombers in one 4-gallon Rubbermaid, so there's your first batch of bottles. This bucket is your &quot;sanitization station&quot;, and will continually be refilled by unsanitized bottles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill each bottle about ⅓ with sanitizer solution. Put your thumb over the top and shake vigorously until you're confident the solution has made contact with the entirety of the bottle. Dump the solution back into the Rubbermaid, then dip the top of the bottle to the neck in the solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill each bottle, rest a cap on top. Clamp the caps when you finish each &quot;batch&quot;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards sanitation, don't let absolute perfection be the enemy of good enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3876" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T15:46:03.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11255" CreationDate="2014-01-05T16:01:33.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary function of secondary fermentation is clarification, not fermentation. (Unless you're fermenting something which requires a secondary fermentation addition, like a special yeast addition or dry hopping.) I've found great success by making sure the fermenting wort gravity is within 2-4 points of expected final gravity &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; transfer to secondary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3876" LastEditorUserId="3876" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T02:24:17.703" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T02:24:17.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11255" CreationDate="2014-01-05T22:01:18.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Secondary fermentation is far more important in Lagers than in ales. Ales are quick finishing P.D.Q. beers. If I'm not drinking my ales in 10 days there is a problem ( I have a keg system - no bottles) However lagers can, and should, sit for weeks at very low temperatures. With an Ale, especially a high hopped IPA type ale, you can get away with as little as 2 or 3 days. The main season I rack and secondary an ale is to get the finishing beer off the yeast cells and trube before they can affect the taste. What the yeast is doing to the beer during secondary fermentation is slowly digesting the last of the long chain Malt sugars. In a lager this gives the beer a dry crisp finish. This is not always desirable in a typical ale where these sugars are an important part of the flavor profile.  If you start adding sugar back into the secondary you run the risk of getting some bad &quot;off flavors' Be very careful dry hopping you run the risk of infecting your beer. I think it's far better to add a very healthy hop dose at the end of the boil, where the hops are sterilized, that adding dry hops at the start of the secondary ferment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6236" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T15:29:49.170" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T15:29:49.170" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2014-01-05T22:36:57.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I grew up making beer, hard cider(a type of wine), applejack(concentrated hard cider through freezing) and wine at home. My father's friends made corn whiskey and gin. I have done hours of internet searches about various alcohols and have come to these conclusions. Whiskey is distilled from beer(Beer is from fermented grains). Brandy is distilled from wine(Wine is from fermented fruit). Rum is from fermented sugar cane or molasses. Arrack is distilled from fermented sap. Vodka is distilled from apparently anything that ferments except milk or honey and is not aged(basically a moonshine). Gin and Absinthe are merely flavored or infused neutral alcohols. Having described all that let us discuss the question.&#xA; Just let me say mead is not a brandy, because mead is not wine(&quot;Aguardente de mel&quot; means &quot;honey brandy&quot; in Portuguese) Mead is from fermented honey. They have many different classifications of mead depending on what you add during the fermentation process but it is still mead. &quot;FrustratedWithForms&quot; made an excellent observation about honeyjack. To me that is the correct term when mead is &quot;freeze distilled &quot; or even &quot;drakas&quot;(from the Norse as taken from the post above). But &quot;freeze distilling&quot; is not really distillation , it is concentration. That is why distilled hard cider is called apple brandy not applejack. The closest type of alcohol to mead is indeed kumiss(Kumiss is from fermented mare's milk). Both mead and kumiss are derived from animal products. Having searched for the answer to:&quot;What is distilled mead called?&quot; I have determined that it has yet to be named. Darcy Thomas from the above post had the right idea. We must coin a new term. But not based off any of the old terms. The name must stand on its own as mead does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6237" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T22:36:57.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3259" CreationDate="2014-01-06T01:13:53.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick note on how I interpret &quot;over-fermentation&quot;:- or, &quot;How to push a good thing as far as it will go&quot;. If you want a beer that has more A.B.V. in a bottle, than in your average 6 pack has in total, it is possible. You can force a beer into this condition. If you brew up a wort that has several pounds of malt per gallon the yeast can't ferment it. It may start to ferment it, but the alcohol produced will eventually poison the yeast and further fermentation stops. However - if you start with an average wort, around 4 or 5 % and let the fermentation become good and strong, then every day or so just keep adding dry malt in syrup form or extract malt. The yeast adapts to the slowly increasing alcohol content and it is possible to boost the A.B.V. well over 12%. The only commercial beer, I have tried, that does this is Maximator from Augustiner Brewery in Munich. There is also a Maximater brewed in Amsterdam that is 11.5%&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Have a Very Hoppy Brew Year! Kiwi Bruce&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6236" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T01:13:53.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-06T13:46:56.730" Score="3" ViewCount="18061" Body="&lt;p&gt;My HBS recommends maltodextrin to increase body &amp;amp; head retention, when and how much should be added to 5 gallon batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T23:11:33.127" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T15:29:40.903" Title="Use of maltodextrin to increase head retention &amp; body, how much &amp; when added for 5 gallon batch?" Tags="|head-retention|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11253" CreationDate="2014-01-06T14:03:40.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine adding the extract at bottling. Consider the bottle conditioning as an extension of the secondary ferment. I had a lager that got a yeast taint in the secondary. I added raspberry extract at bottling. It wasn't just a &quot;save&quot; for a lost brew, it turned out to be a fantastic &quot;Lambic' style beer. Kiwi Bruce    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6236" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T14:03:40.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11263" CreationDate="2014-01-06T14:13:21.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only use maltodextrin with extract beers, added with the rest of the malt. You can add it at any time during the boil though. A pound in 5 or 6 gallon for IPA's type brews, 1/2lb  in lighter beers. I don't think all grain brew needs it, but it greatly improves my P.D.Q. APA's.&#xA;Kiwi Bruce&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6236" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T23:11:15.703" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T23:11:15.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11243" CreationDate="2014-01-06T14:34:35.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick note. Some of the older H.B. recipes, 20+ years ago, called for saccharin to give residual sweetness in extract beers. When splenda came out, one of our brew club members wrote to them and asked if splenda could be used the same way. They replied and said absolutely NOT! The yeast in the ferment COULD produce methanol from the altered sugars in splenda. I don't know if they had researched this or if it was just C.Y.A. on their part. Kiwi Bruce  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6236" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T14:34:35.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11269" CreationDate="2014-01-06T14:47:20.087" Score="1" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I am about to keg for 1st time and my question is this do we force carbonate right after fermentation is over?For example a lager beer style will go for laggering before or after &#xA;force carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6241" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T17:18:10.417" Title="When is the right time for kegging?" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11267" CreationDate="2014-01-06T15:20:01.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You keg the beer at the same time you would bottle. So, for an ale, keg after the beer has fermented and clarified. For lagers, after the lagering period is finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T17:18:10.417" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T17:18:10.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11267" CreationDate="2014-01-06T17:06:24.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually keg and carbonate my lagers after 4 weeks or so in primary.  As long as fermentation is finished, you can keg, carb and lager at any time and do them all simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T17:06:24.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5447" CreationDate="2014-01-06T18:22:41.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I have begun to experiment with is a double fermentation of my apple cider into a more potent agave fermented cider-wine. I start off with the the traditional cider making of my apple cider. Then when it has stopped fermenting I add more sugar (agave) and the fermenting continues. This increases the alcohol percentage from 7%the to anywhere up to 12%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6242" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T18:22:41.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11263" CreationDate="2014-01-06T23:14:15.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maltodextrin will increase body using between 1/4 and 1lb in a 5 gallon batch. Although equally, using LME/DME instead of sugar with a kit will do a similar job and give you a much maltier beer.  Maltodextrin has relatively little taste, so don't expect the beer to be much sweeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To increase head formation and retention, and sweeten the beer, you can add 1/4 of wheat malt (if doing a mini-mash) or a light caramel malt, such as carapils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T23:14:15.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11237" CreationDate="2014-01-07T00:22:54.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now keg and only bottle about a dozen with each batch, but when I used to bottle the whole batch; 50+ bottles, I would fill the bottles first, then cap them and cellar them. It never occurred to me that there was some lag time without the cap. I would expect, unless you are filling the bottles with CO2 prior to bottling, it's not going to make much difference. The beer is pushing out air as you fill anyway. Ideally, you don't want to introduce much air (carbonation is anaerobic), but some is inevitable. As long as everything is sanitized and you are careful not to splash or otherwise inject any more air than necessary, you should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, bottling the whole batch gets a bit tedious and I would imagine most home-brewers evolve to kegging, while some still bottle a few away for competition or for cellaring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T00:22:54.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-07T06:13:01.180" Score="0" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished my second Brew in a Bag (BIAB) and although everything went well, I had &#xA;a difference in my anticipated FG. The recipe and Brewmate was giving me a finaly gravity of 1.014 but it finished fermentation at 1.010. Any reasons why the beer didn't reach the anticipated FG? I achieved my original gravity of 1.050 and I mashed at 66°C-67°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6247" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T14:31:12.040" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T14:31:12.040" Title="Difference in FG from recipe" Tags="|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11283" CreationDate="2014-01-07T06:34:04.830" Score="1" ViewCount="1246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/11189/3950&quot;&gt;previously posted about a cider that kept bubbling&lt;/a&gt;. Since then, the cider stopped bubbling. I checked the current gravity, and wonder if I have a stuck fermentation because the specific gravity has not changed for five days..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG was 13.5°Brix on a properly calibrated refractometer. The current gravity is 5.6°Bx, and has been there for five days. The cider is apple juice concentrate diluted to the OG, and pitched with 6 g of properly rehydrated Mangrove Jack M44 yeast. I did not use any yeast nutrient.  I understand the FG should end up at 0°Bx. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cider has been fermenting since Nov. 19. Original fermentation temp in the cellar was 66-67°F for 3 weeks. It naturally dropped to 63°F. I brought it upstairs a week ago, and it is at 70°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just expect the cider to take a long time, and exhibit more patience? Or does more need to be done? Rock the carboy to rouse the yeast? Increase the temp more? Move if back to the cellar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T20:57:53.413" Title="Stuck Fermentation on Cider?" Tags="|cider|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4417" CreationDate="2014-01-07T07:36:04.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems strange to me that so many people are prepared to trust their own &quot;untested&quot; experience to know when a mash has got complete conversion. Kind of like an electrician saying I've never tested if circuits are live before working on them so testing is a waste of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean don't get me wrong, it is not the end of the the world if your mash did not achieve full conversion, but even with the freshest of malts and the right temps, I have still had the test fail now and again, an extra 10 - 15 minutes in the tun has sorted it out. BUT and here is the nub of it. If I had not bothered testing I would have just assumed that in my experience my mashes always completed on time every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you consider how much time, effort and expense we put into a batch of beer, is the 20 seconds and a couple of pennies it would cost for the test that big of a deal that it is worth skipping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have been regularly brewing using the same ingredients and same gear for years and never had a failed conversion test, then I can understand not bothering with the test every time, but in all honesty untested experience where you just assume something has been right all along, is not worth anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T07:36:04.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11274" CreationDate="2014-01-07T10:41:26.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A possible cause could be when you took you SG the wort would have suspended particles from the malts. These particles in solution will effect the density of the wort and your reading. When left to settle by the time of FG reading these particles are no longer in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The density of a sediment-water suspension depends on the concentration and specific gravity of the sediments present in the mixture. If the suspension is allowed to stand, particles will settle out of the suspension and the density of the sediment-water suspension will decrease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;O.004 is quite a small difference (+0.5% ABV) and being lower shouldn't be anything to worry about just slight more alcohol. With wines/ciders it can make taste more dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T10:41:26.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10875" CreationDate="2014-01-07T11:08:24.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that this doesn't include beeswax.&lt;p&gt;Use Crayons and Hot Glue Gun sticks melted together (melt glue first) at a ratio of equal number of crayons sticks to glue sticks.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Crayons give waxy feel and colour and the glue gives durability.&#xA;Instruction video here&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/Heanyho4zTA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/Heanyho4zTA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T15:19:12.540" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T15:19:12.540" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11280" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:48:36.557" Score="3" ViewCount="4387" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we say that we leave the beer to mature, at what temperature does that happen and does it need to be carbonated? Can a beer mature in a keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6249" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T13:23:05.477" LastActivityDate="2020-03-08T14:05:56.810" Title="Temperature of maturing" Tags="|maturation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11279" CreationDate="2014-01-07T13:46:04.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maturation begins the moment fermentation completes, up until it is consumed, therefor no, it does not need to be carbonated.  Since maturing the beer is another way of saying &quot;aging the beer&quot;, the temperature will vary depending on the current stage it is at.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance (assuming an ale yeast strain), once primary fermentation completes and maturing begins, often times people may allow it to age at a slightly warmer temperature than what they fermented it at (e.g. 70°F/21°C or even room temperature).  This ensure the yeast is warm enough to clean up after itself.  They'll allow it sit at that temperature until they decide to cold crash the beer, at which point they'll try to lower the temperature down to as close to freezing as possible, without actually freezing the beer.  After a couple of days/weeks at that temperature, they will allow it to warm for bottling, or move to a keg to force carbonate.  For bottling, it's recommended to keep the bottles above 70°F/21°C for two-three weeks to allow for carbonation, and then to cellar at 50°F/10°C, or keg at whichever cold temperature they need to force carbonate (often between 32°F-50°F/0°C-10°C) for a couple of days/weeks, and then keep at serving temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer can mature in a keg, but if maturation is a measure of the yeast's ability to impart flavor/aroma characteristics over time, it will occur at a much slower rate.  The keg will be most often be stored at serving temperatures, which causes the yeast to go into hibernation/settle out to the bottom of the keg and get pulled out through the tap lines, reducing the amount of yeast left in the keg to mature the beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, maturation often implies more than just flavor, and includes other characteristics such as appearance/clarity, which will take a variable amount of time depending upon the ingredients used in the recipe and the temperature at which the beer is stored at.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T13:46:04.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11282" CreationDate="2014-01-07T14:05:16.863" Score="1" ViewCount="1161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know if anybody has tried filtering beer with coffee filters?&#xA;I'm tempted to play with this idea at a later date. I would be concerned about aerating the beer too much, so again has anyone made any enclosed rigs for the coffee filters?&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;Because the microns of the filter is not heavily regulated, I'm imagining some sort of spaced-out-multi-layered structure of filters clamped together could work.&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any examples, tutorials or projects with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T15:52:59.277" Title="Filtering Beer with Coffee Filter" Tags="|brewing|filtering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11281" CreationDate="2014-01-07T15:52:59.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;assuming you do it post fermentation, you will oxidize the beer badly.  Not a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T15:52:59.277" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11275" CreationDate="2014-01-07T20:57:53.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is answered in the comments. I failed to compensate for the alcohol on the final refractometer reading. The answer is that the cider is done fermenting, having finished at around FG = 1.002.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For some reason I was mentally confusing &lt;a href=&quot;http://seanterrill.com/2010/06/11/refractometer-estimates-of-final-gravity/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wort correction factor that applies to beer but not fruit juices, as researched by Sean Terrill&lt;/a&gt;, with correction for the SG of alcohol. Allow me to say &quot;d'oh!&quot; for my rookie mistake, especially because I believe I recently gave an answer about alcohol correction on this forum.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; I am not sure what the etiquette is here, seeing as forum partipants solved my problem in the comments (vote to close, or answer my own), so I am just going to answer my own question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T20:57:53.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11287" CreationDate="2014-01-07T23:56:33.390" Score="0" ViewCount="788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reading a lot about people not liking green/clear bottles and going for brown bottles, which I believe is traditional and correct in regards to protection from UV/Daylight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But why is it such an issue? I store mine in the fridge, garage, cupboard and in cardboard boxes. If prolonged storage in sunlight is removed what is the issue? I can't imagine an hour or so in a ice bucket at a BBQ can do much harm, can it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9983/does-skunk-off-flavour-go-away/9988#9988&quot;&gt;Does skunk off flavour go away?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11292/what-does-skunked-beer-taste-like-how-would-you-describe-skunked-beer&quot;&gt;What does skunked beer taste like, How would you describe skunked beer?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T00:59:00.827" Title="Why are green bottle less favoured?" Tags="|storage|bottles|skunk|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-01-15T16:00:59.423" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11284" CreationDate="2014-01-08T01:26:11.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I store my bottles in the closet, and then move them to the fridge when I'm ready to chill them for drinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I salvaged several green Becks bottles that I use for bottling, and of course, I've never had any issues.  I do feel weird when I get stuck bottling a dark beer into the green bottles, but that's obviously just a mental thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, though, the answer is (much to my surprise) possibly yes, an hour in the ice bucket at the BBQ might skunk your beer.  I was curious about how fast skunking might happen, so I did some poking around and found this post, which is consistent with several other anecdotes on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?PHPSESSIONID=d08882783185c6ee3e6cb16b86b3b59e&amp;amp;topic=4876.msg57156#msg57156&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?PHPSESSIONID=d08882783185c6ee3e6cb16b86b3b59e&amp;amp;topic=4876.msg57156#msg57156&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3282" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T01:26:11.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11284" CreationDate="2014-01-08T04:20:52.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I store mine in cardboard boxes.  I use lots and lots of clear bottles, and a few green ones.  I don't worry about skunking at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I'll lightly skunk a pilsner-ish beer on purpose.  I do that with 20-30 minutes in direct sunlight (in a clear or green bottle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But accidental skunking just doesn't happen to my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T04:20:52.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11284" CreationDate="2014-01-08T04:58:31.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;MBT (3-methyl-2-butene-1-thiol) happens real quick.  People have reported Heineken bottles skunking when in direct sunlight in less than 15 minutes.  Heineken has a minor defense of green tinted bottles, clear obviously has less.  An hour in an ice bucket outside would most certainly skunk any beer in a green or clear bottle.  Since MBT is caused primarily by hops in the beer, the more hops used, the greater the skunking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to prevent skunking, keep all bottles (including brown) out of direct sunlight and fluorescent light.  Exposure to incandescent lighting needs to be minimized as well, but it takes longer.  If you have old boxes from beer runs, don't throw them out, re-purpose them for keeping your bottles in.  A closet or cellar works well to help with preventing exposure as well.  If you need to store fermentation vessels, shirts work well, pulled over the top of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When transferring from storage to the beer fridge, minimize exposure as well.  If green or clear, make sure they're concealed in UV-impenetrable containers from the cellar/closet to the beer fridge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T04:58:31.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11255" CreationDate="2014-01-08T09:40:01.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be a little redundant but I feel there is a couple missing suggestions. I agree with everyones comments about &lt;em&gt;cold break&lt;/em&gt; material, thats a chilling issue. And secondary being more for clarity and conditioning. And I absolutely agree with Denny on the the subject of autolysis too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion for your next ale fermentation would be to ferment as normal (until you reach your desired FG) then before you think about a secondary, take your fermenter (still on the yeast) and chill it before you rack into bottle bucket/keg. This will drop out any trub and yeast and in turn leave you with a clearer beer without a secondary. I typically ramp up temp at the end of fermentation, this will keep the yeast active  without adding off flavors and help clean up any off flavors that were produced during.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention &lt;em&gt;yeast refining the taste in secondary&lt;/em&gt;... again redundant but thats a primary fermentation process and more specifically the first half. You also ask about sediment going back into the beer, I would suggest being careful what you transfer and know when you brew you will have to sacrifice some beer/wort all throughout the brewing process to avoid picking up debris and trub. I say bottle that thing and see what happens, its all a learning process so take notes, adjust, and listen with a smart ear to advice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope I make sense... I've been drinking...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T09:40:01.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11290" CreationDate="2014-01-08T09:40:25.523" Score="1" ViewCount="1020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a large pack (25kg) but i will only use 10kg to start. How long can I store the rest? How long can they be stored if crushed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6241" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T23:29:34.080" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T23:29:34.080" Title="How long can I store crushed and whole grain?" Tags="|storage|malt|grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11289" CreationDate="2014-01-08T09:50:18.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what type of malt but assuming you are looking at base malts this should be accurate, It's directly from Briess's website referring to 2 row pale malt. Darker roasted malts will differ somewhat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STORAGE AND SHELF LIFE &#xA;Store in a temperate, low humidity, pest free environment at &#xA;temperatures of &amp;lt;90 ºF. Improperly stored malts are prone &#xA;to loss of freshness and flavor. Whole kernel diastatic and &#xA;preground malts are best when used within 6 months from &#xA;date of manufacture. Whole kernel roasted malts may begin &#xA;experiencing a slight flavor loss after 18 months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets/PDFs/Briess_PISB_2RowBrewersMalt.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets/PDFs/Briess_PISB_2RowBrewersMalt.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T09:50:18.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-08T12:05:32.690" Score="2" ViewCount="7623" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of discussion about maintaining the correct temperature of fermentation vessels, but pretty much all of the stuff I read assumes people are either in the desert or the arctic! Being in the north of England our outside temperature can vary (in extreme cases) between -10C (14F) and 30C (86F). There are times when I would be wanting to reduce the temperature of my FV, but other times when I would like to raise it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are methods like the wet blanket, refrigerator, or fish tank heater solutions but all of these require that you man a sentinel post to watch over your brew to tweak the temperature either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, let's say I'm wanting to set up a dedicated fermentation room (and perhaps another dedicated conditioning room) and I want to keep the temperature constant which may involve either heating or warming compared to the outside temperature. I would also like to use a &quot;set it and forget it&quot; type system. What is the easiest way to achieve this? Is there a single type of product that can do this or do I need to rely on separate heating and cooling systems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK we don't have houses with air conditioning as standard because it is rarely used - therefore I have no real experience of its capabilities other than their use for cooling hot, stuffy offices... would that be the correct solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T16:07:06.373" Title="Maintaining a constant room temperature" Tags="|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11295" CreationDate="2014-01-08T12:17:11.120" Score="3" ViewCount="10853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of what skunking is and how it occurs (&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1291/skunking-beer-process&quot;&gt;Skunking Beer Process&lt;/a&gt;).&#xA;But what does it taste/smell like? Are we talking a smell/taste like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skunk_%28Cannabis%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plant&lt;/a&gt; or  the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skunk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;animal&lt;/a&gt;? :D &lt;p&gt;Also I rather not ruin a beer to find out, please describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9983/does-skunk-off-flavour-go-away/9988#9988&quot;&gt;Does Skunk Off Flavour Go Away?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZuHmglowJA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Taste Test Video&lt;/a&gt; (Thanks &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/3950/chino-brews&quot;&gt;Chino Brews&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T18:45:34.527" Title="What does skunked beer taste like, How would you describe skunked beer?" Tags="|aroma|taste|skunk|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-08T14:09:55.060" Score="0" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at a place to buy and start a nano-brewery; it has a radon mitigation system. Are there any effects from radon mitigation on the water quality? How will it affect the beer taste and quality?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6254" LastEditorUserId="1676" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T23:23:45.070" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T23:31:21.360" Title="Would radon in the water supply affect the brew?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11292" CreationDate="2014-01-08T14:48:38.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/MBT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MBT (more often referred to as skunking or light-struck)&lt;/a&gt; is an off-putting flavor and aroma characteristic that is intuitively named after the animal which is well known for dispensing what is considered to be the Satan's post-apocalyptic butthole of all off-flavors.  The chemical composition and odor of MBT (3-methyl-2-butene-1-thiol) is very similar to that of the anal secretion of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skunk#Anal_scent_glands&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;skunk&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BJCP &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/study.php#trouble&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;describes and explains&lt;/a&gt; the light-struck off-flavor as the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This aroma and taste is due to the presence of the same mercaptans that are found in the scent glands of skunks. These compounds are formed when ultraviolet light cleaves an isohumulone molecule, and the resulting radical combines with a sulfur compound. Beer stored in clear or green glass bottles is more susceptible to this reaction, which is why brown glass offers more protection. Lightstruck flavors are not desirable in any style, but many European imports possess this quality. Note that Miller Brewing is able to use clear glass bottles because they use a chemically modified form of isohumulone that does not interact with light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T16:02:19.903" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T16:02:19.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11291" CreationDate="2014-01-08T15:10:51.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people will re-purpose &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;node=3741341&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chest freezers&lt;/a&gt; as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Convert-a-chest-freezer-to-kegerator-or-fermenter-/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fermentation chambers&lt;/a&gt; and they will place their carboys and buckets inside of them.  Chest freezers do have their benefits as they are insulated and capable of cooling to any temperature (with the use of a temperature controller) wort would need for fermentation.  They are often the home brewer's go-to for fermentation chambers for their ease of setup, but they aren't without issue (assuming you aren't going to dissect the machine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are restricted to one temperature for all fermentation vessels inside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have a very finite amount of space, so expansion often means replacing with a larger freezer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need an external temperature controller&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of temperature controllers out there.  One of the most popular controllers among home brewer's is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00862G3TQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;STC-1000&lt;/a&gt;, because it gives you the capability to control both heat and cooling (two power outlets, one for each).  It does require a big of &lt;a href=&quot;http://myrtlebeachbeerlovers.com/stc-1000-ebay-temperature-controller/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DIY ingenuity&lt;/a&gt;, but its cost, dual temperature control and the plethora of youtube and online tutorials make it one of the most popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another temperature controller that is also popular is the Johnson line of temperature controllers (both &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004IRDZXA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;analog&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0064O93L8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;digital&lt;/a&gt;).  The downside to Johnson's controllers are they are not dual-temperature.  You can only use one for hot, or cold.  Changing between the two modes is not difficult, but you cannot do it on the fly with the push of a button.  These are popular due to their lack of DIY work required to get it up and running.  You simply plug it in and off you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to go with the dual mode controller, you will also need a means to heat the fermentation vessels.  I've seen everything from a hair dryer (not the most recommended), to a heat lamp, to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/products/fermwrap-heater.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FermWrap&lt;/a&gt; wrapped around a single carboy/bucket.  If you are not looking to ferment a lot of carboys or buckets at once, I would recommend a couple of FermWraps using a splitter, or a heat lamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final thing to keep in mind is that you'll need to control the temperature of the fermentation vessel, and not the ambient temperature of the container the vessels are sitting in, as an actively fermenting vessel is going to be a degree or so warmer than the ambient temperature of the container it sits in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to stray away from setting up a chest freezer in favor of an all-in-one package, your options are very limited.  I've heard a lot of good about &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/category/morebeer-heated-cooled-conicals.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MoreBeer's Conical fermenters&lt;/a&gt; (not sure whether or not they ship to the UK).  The difficulty you're going to run into when searching for a one-size-fits-all solution is that they are going to quickly rise to prices beyond many home brewer's budgets (as you can see with the aforementioned products).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you ferment your wort, an actively fermenting wort ferments higher than the ambient temperature the vessel sits in.  The actual temperature it ferments at will depend upon the aggression of the fermentation (how high of an OG), and what phase the yeast is at.  Often times what people will do with their temperature controllers is take the temperature probe, place it against he side of the fermentation vessel and tape 2-3 layers of bubble wrap over the probe, onto the vessel to ensure the probe reading the temperature of the vessel and not the ambient temperature around it.  If there's more than one vessel fermenting at once, it's best to assume the vessel that is being probed is the same temperature as the others, assuming all fermentations are identical worts with equal pitch rates of yeast (e.g. same 10-gallon batch split into two 5-gallon vessels with 1 package of yeast in each).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T16:07:06.373" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T16:07:06.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11297" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-08T15:33:09.217" Score="0" ViewCount="2484" Body="&lt;p&gt;And how important is dry hopping for added flavor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6255" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T18:00:14.410" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T14:32:59.400" Title="Is secondary fermentation necessary for a double IPA?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|secondary|dry-hop|ipa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11297" CreationDate="2014-01-08T16:12:31.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Secondary is generally not necessary.  However, for an IIPA, dry hopping is crucial.  Based on research done by Stan Hieronymous, I now rack to secondary before dry hopping.  If you leave the beer on the yeast, there is an interaction between the hops and the yeast that increases the levels of gerianol and give it (what is to me) an unpleasant floral quality.  But that's one of the few times I use a secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T16:12:31.280" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11294" CreationDate="2014-01-08T18:27:46.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Radon is a colorless, odorless, tasteless noble gas&lt;/a&gt;. So the radon itself will not affect water or beer taste. The mitigation treatments work by bubbling air through the water, or filtering it through charcoal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And because many homebrewers filter their water through charcoal with no negative affects on water flavor, I assume it will not &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; affect beer &lt;em&gt;flavor&lt;/em&gt;, although filtering may change your water composition, which may in turn &lt;em&gt;indirectly&lt;/em&gt; affect flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as beer &lt;em&gt;quality&lt;/em&gt; unless the mitigation system reduces the levels of radioactivty to zero (or at least below any limits that may be promulgated by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and the U.S. Nuclear Regulatory Commission (USNRC), the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR), and the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH), then I would say that yes, beer &lt;em&gt;quality&lt;/em&gt; is negatively affected because you making radioactive beer that poses a theoretical health hazard to consumers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I hope for the sake of your beer drinkers that you consult an expert regarding the safety of putting that water in a packaged food product before you buy that prospective brewery site.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T23:31:21.360" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T23:31:21.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11292" CreationDate="2014-01-08T18:45:34.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The smell is hard to describe, especially to someone who grew up where there are no skunks. It is not really useful for me to tell you it smells like skunk musk. I have heard some of those people describe it as the smell of burnt rubber, body odor combined with burnt popcorn, sour coffee, or certain strains of aromatic marijuana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really have to try it yourself. You don't have to ruin a whole beer. Pick a very sunny day, and try pouring aboout four ounces of a really hoppy pale ale into a clear glass, covering it plastic wrap, and setting &lt;em&gt;outside&lt;/em&gt; in the sun for 45 minutes (setting it indoors in the sunlight may not work as well because window glass blocks many UV rays). Now smell it and drink it. That is the smell of a dead skunk, run over by a car about a mile away on an Amrican country highway. And it is the smell of light-struck beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T18:45:34.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11305" CreationDate="2014-01-08T21:24:23.587" Score="1" ViewCount="1989" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I buy beer that comes in swing top bottles? I don't wanna buy empty bottles if for a few more coins I can get some beer in it! :D&lt;p&gt; Please list below Details like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Location &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brand &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T17:36:46.050" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T17:36:46.050" Title="Where Can I Buy Commercial Beer in Swing Top Bottles in UK" Tags="|bottles|better-bottle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-01-09T16:51:16.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11301" CreationDate="2014-01-08T21:24:23.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Location: Aldi (Next shipment Sept 2014)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brand: Das Helle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size: 500ml *&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost: £2 approx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colour: Brown *&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T21:24:23.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11301" CreationDate="2014-01-08T21:27:40.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Location: Asda / Tesco&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brand: Grolsch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size: 450ml&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost: 3 for £5 approx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colour: Green&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T21:27:40.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3000" CreationDate="2014-01-09T00:48:18.560" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;HONEY SHOULD NEVER BE HEATED AT ALL. I have myself seen this poisonous effect on one of my relatives who used to take honey in hot fluids. this affected him badly. when he went to the doctor, and after months of diagnosis, he was diagnosed with the accumulation of a glue like substance in his body, and very late it was discovered that this was due to the heated honey.&#xA;the heating of honey changes the molecular structure of the honey and makes it highly toxic. it should be made compulsory by all the legislations in the world to mark on the bottles that honey should not be heated. also, it is a shame that too many companies these days are marketing their cereals with honey, whose preparation involves heating the cereals to cook them. the right procedure is only to cook the cerals, then make them luke warm and thereafter only add honey. these companies who are marketing so many sorts of “processed foods” as “healthy choices for people” should be banned by people, as no government around the world have hands big enough to ban these big and powerful brands. this has been scientifically proven that when honey is heated, it forms a chemical called as hydroxymethyl furfuraldehyde (HMF) and also chemically alters its basic structure/ composition while increasing peroxides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6258" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T00:48:18.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11301" CreationDate="2014-01-09T00:57:05.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pubs that stock Grolsch will often let you have their bottles, for £4 per crate, which is a lot less than you would usually pay for empty bottles.  They have a deal with Grolsch to return the bottles (and crates) for that amount, but apparently Grolsch is awful at picking up regularly, so most places have a case or two, or sometimes 10, hanging around that they just want rid of, and if you offer to pay their refund, they will gladly take it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the bottles to be perfect for brewing (if you don't mind Green bottles), they're strong and attractive, and you won't get them cheaper than this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3388" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T00:57:05.697" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11307" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:25:09.270" Score="1" ViewCount="6506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm needing hoses to run to and from my barbed ball-lock quick disconnect on my cornelius keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which diameter should I be getting?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need reinforced hoses?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer:&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/4&quot; (6mm) Inner Diameter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3/16&quot; (5mm) Inner Diameter, with boiling water to soften and stretch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reinforced is not required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T17:34:47.963" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T17:34:47.963" Title="What Beer Line or Hose Size Fits the Cornelius/Corny Keg Barbed Quick Disconnects?" Tags="|equipment|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11306" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:46:41.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it is 1/4 Inch (6mm) Inside Diameter pipe, but you should also be able to force a flexible 3/16 (5mm) ID pipe over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no need for reinforced hose if you are using proper beer and gas line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T14:07:08.307" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T14:07:08.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3000" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:51:47.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Re: HONEY SHOULD NEVER BE HEATED AT ALL.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Sorry apparently I need 50Rep to sub-comment???)&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydroxymethylfurfural&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In humans, no correlation between intakes of HMF and disease is known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how dangerous heated honey is, but apparently coffee contains more of 'it'. So your yearly intake of coffee vs yearly intake of mead? I'd say mead is good to drink!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;fresh honey contains less than 15 mg/kg—depending on pH-value and temperature and age,[11] and the codex alimentarius standard requires that honey have less than 40 mg/kg HMf to guarantee that the honey has not undergone heating during processing, except for tropical honeys which must be below 80 mg/kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Several types of roasted coffee contained between 300 – 2900 mg/kg HMF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T13:51:47.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3000" CreationDate="2014-01-09T14:00:38.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;*Not an expert but...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I believe I have read that Honey is not a great food source for yeast as it doesn't have ample levels of all the bits and pieces needed to make happy baby yeasties. So your recipe may need some nutritional source like DAP (yeast nutrients) or fruits for flavoured meads (melomel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T14:00:38.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11311" CreationDate="2014-01-09T17:02:13.523" Score="3" ViewCount="8415" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long should my beer lines be in my kegerator or keezer for the perfect pint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T17:30:11.797" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T17:30:11.797" Title="Balancing: Correct Serving Pressure Vs Beer Line Length" Tags="|co2|kegerator|corny-keg|pressure|serving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11310" CreationDate="2014-01-09T17:02:13.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Original Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/164-balancing-your-draft-system-advanced-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BYO.com Balancing your Draft System: Advanced Brewing&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;With: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3/16&quot; beer lines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Serving tap 2ft above the keg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 PSI CO2 serving/dispensing pressure (high for some Homebrewers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 2ft beer line would be a good starting place (but start longer you can always cut some off but you can't put back on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A matter of balance &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Calculating the correct dispensing pressure and&#xA;  making changes to the system is known as “balancing” and is critical&#xA;  to pouring a perfect beer. Balance is not only dependent on the&#xA;  carbonation level and the temperature of the beer, but several other&#xA;  factors also enter into the equation. These include the overall height&#xA;  difference between the keg and the tap, the length and diameter of the&#xA;  dispensing line and the type of tap being used. Changes to any one of&#xA;  these will change the balance of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Between the keg and the tap, there is resistance to the flow of the&#xA;  beer. Gravity (the difference in height) accounts for &#xA;  0.5 PSI per foot (11.3 kilopascals per meter), a positive value if the tap is located above the keg, negative if the tap is below it. A&#xA;  standard beer faucet has a resistance of 2 PSI (13.8 kPa); the shank&#xA;  adds another 1 PSI (6.9 kPa). A picnic or “cobra” tap has a resistance&#xA;  of about &#xA;  0.5 PSI (3.4 kPa). Additionally, the beer line itself offers the following resistance based on the inside diameter. (These figures are&#xA;  for flexible vinyl beverage tubing):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3/16 in. (4.75 mm) inside diameter (ID):&#xA;  3.0 PSI/ft. (67.9 kPa/m) 1/4 in. (6.35 mm) ID:&#xA;  0.8 PSI/ft. (18.1 kPa/m) 5/16 in. (7.94 mm) ID:&#xA;  0.4 PSI/ft. (9.0 kPa/m) 3/8 in. (9.53 mm) ID:&#xA;  0.2 PSI/ft. (4.5 kPa/m)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Finally, some additional pressure is necessary to achieve a proper&#xA;  flow rate. The generally accepted desirable pour rate for beer is&#xA;  considered to be 1 US gallon (3.8 L) per minute or 1 US pint (473 mL)&#xA;  per 7–8 seconds. For most systems, a value of 5 PSI (34.5 kPa) is&#xA;  sufficient for balancing calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Assuming that the other values remain the same, the easiest way to&#xA;  balance the system is to adjust the line length so that the total&#xA;  resistance of the system equals the carbonation pressure minus the&#xA;  required 5 PSI (34.5 kPa) for a proper flow rate. Round the result to&#xA;  the next highest foot (0.3 meter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example, for a pale ale that is carbonated to 2.3 volumes of CO2&#xA;  at 46 °F (8 °C), the correct carbonation pressure (from the force&#xA;  carbonation formula) is 13 PSI (89.6 kPa). The beer is dispensed&#xA;  through a standard shank and beer faucet at a height of 2 ft. (60.9&#xA;  cm) above the center of the keg. Here are the calculations for the&#xA;  required length of 3/16 in. (4.75 mm) diameter beer line in order to&#xA;  balance the system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gravity resistance: +2 ft. (60.9 cm) *  0.5 PSI/ft (11.3 kPa/m) = 1&#xA;  PSI (6.9 kPa)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shank resistance: 1 PSI (6.9 kPa)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Faucet resistance: 2 PSI (13.8 kPa)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fixed resistance of the system (not including the line): 2 + 1 + 1 = 4&#xA;  PSI &#xA;      (13.8 + 6.9 + 6.9 = 27.6 kPa)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Carbonation pressure of the beer &#xA;      (2.3 volumes of CO2 at 46 °F/8 °C):     13 PSI (89.6 kPa)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pressure required to dispense beer at &#xA;      1 gallon (3.78 liters)/minute: &#xA;      5 PSI (34.5 kPa)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pressure needing to be balanced: &#xA;      13 - 5 = 8 PSI (89.6 - 34.5 = 55.1 kPa)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Resistance to be supplied by the line: &#xA;      8 - 4 = 4 PSI (55.2 - 27.6 = 27.6 kPa)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Resistance of 3/16 in. (4.75 mm) ID beer &#xA;      line: 3 PSI/ft. (67.9 kPa/m)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Length of 3/16 in. (4.75 mm) ID line required to achieve 8 PSI (55.1&#xA;  kPa) resistance:&#xA;      4/3 = 1.33 ft. (40.5 cm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rounded to next highest foot (0.3 meters): &#xA;      2 ft. (61 cm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Therefore, 2 ft. (61 cm) of 3/16 in.  (4.75 mm) ID diameter tubing&#xA;  will balance this system for the example beer.         &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Note: This length seems short by homebrew standards because 5 PSI is&#xA;  a higher “overpressure” than most homebrewers use. Lowering the&#xA;  dispensing pressure to 0.5–1.0 PSI will result in a line length more&#xA;  in line with usual homebrew setups. Experiment with flow rates to find&#xA;  one you like.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T17:02:13.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11314" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:13:34.757" Score="4" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;All advice I've seen given here and on other brew sites relies heavily on the use of a hydrometer, which I assume is a somewhat recent invention. However, people have been brewing and drinking for thousands of years - what did they do in the past? Does anybody here brew without the use of measure-reading instruments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: I'm not talking about just beer, I'm wondering about any alcohol ferment (beer, wine, cider, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6261" LastEditorUserId="6261" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T20:19:54.423" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T05:54:57.113" Title="How did people know whether their brews were done before the hydrometer was invented?" Tags="|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11312" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:47:18.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As well as hydrometers, carbonating and hopping beer is also a fairly recent trend in brewing, so a long time ago, the wort was brewed (by steeping grain and boiling, no hops), put into a barrel and then stirred with a big stock of wood that provided the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer didn't have anything like the quality we expect today, so it was simply deemed ready after the krausen had fallen or after a suitable period of time had passed, or simply when the brewer felt it was fit for serving (or not!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:47:18.273" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11312" CreationDate="2014-01-09T20:59:05.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a different approach to answering your question.  Another completely valid, and backwards way of asking your question would be to ask: &quot;How did people know that a hydrometer was an indicator of the beer being done?&quot;  The hydrometer really doesn't tell you that your beer is &quot;done&quot;.  What it tells you is that the sugars have been converted by yeast into alcohol and CO2 (among other by-products).  I certainly wouldn't consider a Russian Imperial Stout or Barley Wine done the moment the krausen dissipates back into the beer and the hydrometer hits its FG.  Each beer is different, just how every brewer is different.  Their interpretations of &quot;done&quot; are all subjective, influenced by others imparting advice and education on them and previous attempts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no right or wrong way to brew a beer (probably the most over-stated piece of advice, second only to Papazian's &quot;Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew&quot;, bear with me here).  By that logic, there is no wrong way to call a beer done.  Each brewer has their own idea of when their beer is ready to serve, they don't need a hydrometer each time to tell themselves that.  Heck, I didn't bother to take final gravity readings on two of the five beers in my keezer.  They tasted great, I was excited to get them carbed up, and to this day, I don't know what the exact ABV of them are, but I'm confident they're done.  My measure of &quot;done&quot; is that it tastes how I wanted it to taste, if not better.  I bet brewers back hundreds of years ago used the same methods to determine whether or not their beer was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably not the most factual answer you would hope for, but hopefully it allows you to take a broader approach to understanding how it worked back in the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T20:59:05.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11312" CreationDate="2014-01-10T00:21:28.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Guess is that back in the days of old, they depended more on aging than on whether or not it was fermented. their experience taught them that their brew was best enjoyed during a min/max window of &quot;freshness&quot;. &#xA;In my own experience, I brewed 3 or 4 batches (blondes and cream ales) that came out very tasty indeed before I ever bought a hydro. I watched the airlock. After about 4 or 5 days it stopped bubbling and I let it &quot;mature&quot; another week or so. I  learned from accidental experience that I preferred when my primary went for 3 weeks instead of the minimum 2 weeks recommeded in the recipe. I also learned that my cream ale was much better after 4 weeks of conditioning in the bottles than it was after only 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;of course this could all be hog wash as I have no historical research to base any of this on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T00:21:28.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11317" CreationDate="2014-01-10T01:54:23.197" Score="1" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I add Honey to a cooled wort (Brown Ale) and then vanilla at bottling time? It is for a wort transformation contest and I will receive the Brown Ale after boil!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T17:05:32.843" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T17:05:32.843" Title="Addition of honey and vanilla to cooled wort" Tags="|late-addition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11316" CreationDate="2014-01-10T04:16:45.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes to both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honey is not all that uncommon in beers, as it is often used to increase the gravity, and/or add a distinct honey flavor to the beer, giving it a mead-hybrid taste.  To avoid giving it an overly mead flavor, and adding to your fermentation time (honey is notorious for taking a while to mature in flavor), it's recommended that you use up to 10% of your grain bill (by weight) of honey.  If you want to add more more?  Whatever blows your hair back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's several ways you can add it to your wort.  You can dilute it in water to the same original gravity as the rest of the wort, pasteurize it by heating it to at least 176°F/80°C for an hour, cool it, and add it to the batch, or you can simply add it to the cooled wort for an increase in your original gravity.  The former method prevents your OG from going up, the latter will increase your OG.  A lot of people are advocates for adding it to the wort during high krausen, when the yeast is most active and ready for it.  Expect to wait an additional 3-8 weeks for fermentation and aging depending on how much honey you add.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people have reported greater success using vanilla later in the fermentation and aging rather than earlier.  You'll only want to add vanilla extract at bottling.  If you are using vanilla beans, you'll want to cut them down the center, scrape out all the goods inside of the been, and chop all of it up very finely.  It's best to soak them in vodka for a couple of days, and add to secondary slowly until you reach the flavor profile you're looking for.  You can add all of it at once if you're feeling brave, or add half of it, wait a week, sample it, and potentially add the other half if you're dissatisfied with the lack of vanilla flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go the extract route, the best way to determine how much extract you would want is to find a good commercial example of a brown ale, pour it into a glass, and slowly add drops of vanilla to it over time, and stir.  Determine how many drops it takes to get the right profile you want, and then scale the number of drops up to your full batch size.  Add it to your bottling bucket and stir well before bottling off your beer, or add the drops individually to each bottle before capping.  Keep in mind extract is powerful stuff, and it is very easy to overdo it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T15:11:42.390" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T15:11:42.390" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11312" CreationDate="2014-01-10T05:54:57.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hydrometer is known to have been invented by the late 4th century or early 5th century, and to have been used for brewing no later than 1770. Source: wikipedia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, we determine whether a beer is &quot;done&quot; by taste, not measurements. We use a hydrometer mostly to determine when it is OK to package a beer, and for our amusement to determine its apparent ABV (the exception is stuck fermentations). A few hundred years ago, beers were not packaged in as air-tight containers as our crown-capped bottles or kegs -- they were packaged in casks as real ale, or in bottles with cork closures. If a bottle refermented, the cork pushing out was likely the worst consequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T05:54:57.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11297" CreationDate="2014-01-10T14:32:59.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Secondary fermentation will help with the clarification of highly-hopped beers and help the suspended hops to drop out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping will add some aroma to the beer which is a desired trait for the style. Based on personal preferences, I'd recommend around 1.5-2 oz minimum for a 5 gallon batch. Let it sit at least 7 days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1448" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T14:32:59.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3259" CreationDate="2014-01-10T20:09:39.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer IMO is yes. While most people don't really mind what the attenuation gets to (as long as it's not too under attenuated (attenuation is the percentage of sugars converted to alcohol)). Certain beer styles are not supposed to be entirely dry (in the fermentation sense dry means well attenuated). It's all about what you want and what you are going for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get some brettanomyces in the beer by accident which is a yeast that goes well beyond the normal attenuation of the typical beer yeast (Saccharomyces) and brettanomyces produces acid which adds sourness to your beer (which tastes amazing in a lot of styles and is done on purpose more and more). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not necessarily disagree with the content of the other answers here, but it goes without saying, if you mean for it to go from gravity readings of 1.070 to 1.018 but it goes down to 1.010. You aren't doing what you mean to. Most yeasts will only have certain tolerances so they under normal circumstances will only attenuate to their normal limits (normally around 75%ish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T20:09:39.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11207" CreationDate="2014-01-10T20:26:40.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of my plastic brewig equipment is discolored from hops and i havent had any ill effects. &#xA;[My tupperware also stains from leftover spaghetti and there are no ill effects there either :)]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T20:26:40.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11132" CreationDate="2014-01-10T20:30:44.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like everyone has stated, there are always many uses for more buckets. Because they stack so well, I also use them them to store equipment like thermometers, hydros, tubing, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T20:30:44.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11186" CreationDate="2014-01-10T20:36:22.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jedi Jay brough up a good point about the glass, possibly being not rinsed well and having residual soap. this could also happen when cleaning bottles. I once allowed my bottles to soak in a bleach solution that was too strong and didnt do a good job of rinsing, under the false impression that the bleach would evaporate on the drying tree. Let me tell ya, I had 2 cases of flat blondes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T20:36:22.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2014-01-10T20:43:14.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like all the ideas above and I and going to be trying some of them. So far, I usually put my top off water in the fridge at least over night. I top off right away and that usually gets the temp pretty close to pitching temp, around 100-105. (I usually brew ales with a pitch temp of less than 90). I then have a utility sink (or a tub would work) filled with ice water that i set the wort bucket or pot in. Obviously you want to be careful that the water doesnt rise high enough to enter your wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually dont have to wait much more than 90 minutes at the very most! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so far, no complaints :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T20:43:14.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11041" CreationDate="2014-01-10T21:38:49.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a glass carboy for the same reasons as you. however I quickly discovered I can buy about 6 buckets for the price of 1 carboy and they are WAY easier to clean.&#xA;My glass carboy is now filled with about 4 strands of blinking colored Christmas lights and sits on top of my fridge on the patio.&#xA;As soon as my Keezer is done (hopefully this weekend) it will have a new home :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T21:38:49.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11012" CreationDate="2014-01-10T21:47:04.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, buckets are close to the cheapest part of brewing and you should not take chances. a reputable home brew supply house will sell them for around $15 with a lid and spigot. i would hate to see you spend a day brewing, a day of bottling activity, 2-3 weeks fermenting and a couple weeks in the bottles and find out that you have 2 cases of gross beer to save $6-$8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would only use craigslist for things that never go near my mouth :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T21:47:04.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10962" CreationDate="2014-01-10T22:01:34.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just learned some cool =, intresting facts.&#xA;My contribution is this.&#xA;all the recipes I've made have 2 sets of boiling instructions, full and partial boil. the partial boils are for 2 to 3 gallons. this can be done on your kitchen stove easily enough. &#xA;hopefully this will encourage you to give it a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T22:01:34.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10933" CreationDate="2014-01-10T22:05:39.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend that told me he did this in college. I didnt believe him when he told be. But on reflection, I think if you turned the freezer portion off, the refridgerator would keep the entire space cold, but may have to work harder to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be very interested to hear how it worked out :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T22:05:39.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-10T23:54:10.137" Score="2" ViewCount="2384" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the title says, after I chilled my wort I realized the kit I ordered did not come with yeast, an error on the packers fault. Because of my work schedule I wasn't able to pitch the yeast for about 6 days. When I did finally go to pitch the yeast there was what looked like mold growing on top in the shape of bubbles over the wort. I scraped it all off with a spoon, but I'm not sure if the beer is still good. I went ahead and added the yeast anyways, but I'm wondering if I should even bother continuing the process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: Checked the wort today, looks like its beginning to ferment. This is three days after adding yeast, 9 days after the boil.  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PU4u1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;maybe good, who knows&quot;&gt;&#xA;It did not appear to be Lactobacillus but I obviously can't say for sure. It seemed a bit more blue in color.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6269" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T08:29:22.650" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T09:13:14.767" Title="Waited 6 Days after boil to pitch yeast, Wort had what looked like mold, what can be done?" Tags="|yeast|contamination|cooling|pitch|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11332" CreationDate="2014-01-11T00:05:10.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would add the yeast and see what happens.  Hopefully the fermenter was sanitized before you added the wort.  In any case the wort would have been in contact with the air since it's been in there.  Once you add the yeast and it starts fermenting (and creating c02), that will push the air (and whatever's in it) out of the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3255" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T00:05:10.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11332" CreationDate="2014-01-11T00:08:32.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry, but your beer is probably not going to be drinkable. If you're lucky, the wort was infected by a wild yeast. In this case, it may taste a little funky but will still be beer. The more likely scenario is that your beer was infected by bacteria or mold, and will be unpleasant or undrinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you've already pitched the yeast, you might as well wait until fermentation is complete and judge the results then. Give the finished beer a sniff, and unless the smell indicates that it's obviously ruined, have a taste. Maybe you'll get lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, if you have to wait days between cooling and pitching, try to keep the wort as cold as possible. Since it's winter, keeping it outside is a good option. The cold temperature will suppress the metabolism of yeasts, molds and bacteria. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T00:08:32.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11332" CreationDate="2014-01-11T00:09:35.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a style suited to souring, maybe it'll end up interesting… :S&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you left un-sterilized sugar-water alone for 6 days. Bacteria reproduce &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; fast, much faster than yeast actually, but the side-effects of a healthy pitch of yeast usually crowd them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have high hopes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're limited on fermenter space, dump it and get the next batch going. If you're not, let it ride and see if you get lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T00:09:35.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11338" CreationDate="2014-01-11T14:47:52.190" Score="0" ViewCount="2017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my CO2 tank hooked up to a 3-keg keezer for 6 months with no issue - and then one day I went downstairs and the CO2 is empty - but I haven't used nearly enough for it to be empty - and last time I checked the gauge (a week ago) there was plenty of gas left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is - is it possible for one of my taps (perlicks) to be open enough to leak out co2, but not to be dripping beer?  Is there a chance that's how I lost the gas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6270" LastEditorUserId="6270" LastEditDate="2014-01-11T17:06:50.253" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T16:09:42.877" Title="CO2 All Gone - Leaked through tap?" Tags="|co2|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11336" CreationDate="2014-01-11T16:23:48.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, I don't think that can happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T16:23:48.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11336" CreationDate="2014-01-11T16:29:47.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not possible for CO2 to escape from the tap without pushing beer out as well. If there's a leak, it probably in the regulator, manifold, quick disconnects, or one of the kegs. Tighten all the clamps and connectors, and check your seals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T16:29:47.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11375" CreationDate="2014-01-11T21:11:48.843" Score="3" ViewCount="8606" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day mates, &#xA;Just had my very first batch of GB. I have basically followed the stove-top recipe at (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Ginger-Ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Ginger-Ale&lt;/a&gt;). I forgot botton-upping it to mix it all before drinking for the first time. Saw and hear some bubbles (even the bottle was hard of gases) So fermentation process went well. The point is I found it a bit weak, just sweet, and kinda flavored water. Any tips fellas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6272" LastActivityDate="2023-02-01T17:37:47.790" Title="tips to improve my Ginger Beer" Tags="|brewing|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11345" CreationDate="2014-01-11T21:21:43.670" Score="1" ViewCount="1398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know not to expose a fermenting carboy to sunlight, but is it OK to expose a yeast starter? I have two of them next to a window with blinds that are ineffective at blocking sunlight. I didn't think about it until now. May I proceed with brewing or should I throw these yeast starters down the drain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T04:09:34.103" Title="Will a Yeast Starter Exposed to Sunlight Materially Effect the Beer?" Tags="|yeast-starters|light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11343" CreationDate="2014-01-11T22:34:06.467" Score="0" ViewCount="516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received the Johnson A419 Digital Temperature Controller and will be getting a Fermwrap today in the mail (and I will be brewing tonight hopefully).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the Johnson model comes with a probe. Do I sanitize this probe and place it through the airlock into my wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently use a Raspberry Pi with DS18B20 temperature probes to monitor the temperature of my wort, which I store in a database. I sanitize these probes and place it through the airlocks into my wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not be able to fit both the DS18B20 and the Johnson probe through the airlock as the diameter isn't big enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Must I sacrifice my statistical experiment to accomodate the Johnson probe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, is there a way for me to put the Johnson probe through the airlock and then read send the temperatures from the Johnson Control to my Raspberry Pi (Or first to my Arduino and then to my RPi)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T23:10:26.433" Title="How to Use a Johnson Temperature Controller in Combination with a Ferawrap - Probe conflict with Raspberry PI" Tags="|temperature-control|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11342" CreationDate="2014-01-11T23:10:26.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIK, the Johnson probes are not waterproof, so you should not place them into the wort/beer. Either get a thermowell so you can read the temp of the beer itself (ideal), or tape the probe to the outside of the carboy. If you do that latter, you can continue to use your RPi recording approach on this brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going forward, you have a number of options…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/ Extend the RPi to drive a relay to drive the fermwrap, and use that to obsolete the Johnson A419.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2/ Drop two thermowells into the carboy so you can both control (via A419) and record (via DS18B20+RPi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3/ As you say, try to read the temps off the A419's probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T23:10:26.433" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11361" CreationDate="2014-01-12T01:18:37.397" Score="0" ViewCount="977" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first temperature controller and first use of a Fermwrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that the Johnson A419 Temperature Controller can only do hot or cold at one time. Which mode does it default to when you buy it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plugged in the Fermwrap into the controller and set the controller's set point to 80F. The Controller read 66F, but the Fermwrap did not warm up. Not sure whether or not the default mode was cold, I set the set point to 50*F and a green light switched on. I assume this means that the Fermwrap is about to warm up. I flipped the jumpers to set the controller to hot mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I set the controller's set point to 80*F and the differential to 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I laid the Fermwrap on the ground and put the johnson probe directly on it, and the probe quickly warmed to ~74*F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then taped the Fermwrap onto a carboy full of water. My Raspberry Pi with its waterproof DS18B20 temperature probe is telling me the water is 65.18*F. The Johnson probe that I taped to the carboy with styrafoam is at 68*f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water in the carboy is not heating up -- How hot can the Fermawrap get? Or more appropriately, given an ambient temperature, let's say 40*F, can the Fermwrap pull the carboy up to 60-70*F? I've read about people using a freezer with Fermwraps wrapped around a carboy to support ale temperatures, so I would think this would be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll update this question, but the carboy is not moving up in temperature. The Fermwrap barely goes around 1/2 of the circumference of the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if it will just take a while to heat that much water and/or if the Fermwrap is simply ineffectual. The temperature is supposed to drop to 45*F tonight. Can I expect the Fermwrap to counter the drop in temperature quickly enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tricks I should be doing? I thought about wrapping the carboy in some kind of insulating material, but the piece of paper that came with the fermwrap suggested that this would be inappropriate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit - 17:50 PST the temperature of the water has increased from 65.18 to 65.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit - 18:10 PST increased to 65.4116*F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit - 18:50 PST increased to 65.6366*F. The Johnson probe on the outside of the carboy says 72*F. I thought it would have been in line with the temperature of the water in the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit - 23:10 PST increased to 68.45*F. Johnson probe reads a whopping 76*F. This doesn't look good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit - 01:00 PST increased to 70.025&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit - 10:00 PST the following day increased to 72.95. The Johnson probe reads 72. This looks better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-01-12T18:08:08.280" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T15:18:13.367" Title="How to Use a Johnson Digital Temperature Controller with a Fermwrap - General Questions" Tags="|temperature-control|fermwrap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11341" CreationDate="2014-01-12T04:09:34.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the starter was not hopped, you should be ok since the hops are needed to produce the skunky flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The UV radiation in sunlight can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.angelfire.com/planet/crrussell220/Final_Manuscript.htm&quot;&gt;damage&lt;/a&gt; yeast cells, but they are capable of self-repair to a degree, so there should still be plenty of viable cells to continue fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good idea to not pitch the spent starter wort in general, here, I would definitely decant most of the liquid and pitch just the yeast to be on the safe side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T04:09:34.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11349" CreationDate="2014-01-12T05:57:41.493" Score="0" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I brewed an IPA about 2 weeks ago. I used a glass carboy for fermentation and for the first 2 days it was heavy bubbles then for the next week and a half there were a few tiny bubbles. I checked today and the bubbles have increased greatly. Why is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6276" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T16:06:28.600" Title="Primary Fermentation Increased" Tags="|fermentation|primary|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11336" CreationDate="2014-01-12T06:30:44.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time you pour a beer, more CO2 goes into the keg to fill the space the beer had been occupying. Assuming you used the tank to carbonate and serve beer from all 3 kegs, you could have used it all up. The amount of time this takes depends on how big your CO2 tank is obviously. Different systems go through CO2 at different amounts. I always check for leaks in my setup by spraying the connections and lid with a little foamy StarSan (shake up the spray bottle first) and I don't see bubbles, but I go through a 5lb tank on a 2 keg system every few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T04:37:31.113" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T04:37:31.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11253" CreationDate="2014-01-12T06:37:55.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not only fine, but many recipes recommend adding extract at bottling time so that you start with a small amount, taste it, and add more to adjust as needed. For example, see Jamil's Chocolate Hazelnut Porter from Brewing Classic Styles. You can use a medicine dropper, liquid medicine syringe (for children or pets) or pipette to take a measured amount, mix it into the bottling bucket, take a sample, taste, and add more as necessary. It can be difficult because after a few tastes you often stop being able to tell the difference and can add too much, so I'd take notes and err on the side of less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should not affect the carbonation in any way. If your beer was flat, that's very likely a separate problem with several possible causes including: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;temperature - too cold with cause yeast to go dormant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not enough priming sugar or priming sugar not thoroughly mixed throughout the beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;unhealthy/dead yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bad aftertaste could have lots of causes also, bad/spoiled extract, infection, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-01-12T06:43:46.877" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T06:43:46.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11346" CreationDate="2014-01-12T19:22:23.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common reason for a fermentation fluctuation like the one your experiencing, I think, is most likely the temperature of the area around your carboy. Put one of the cheap strip thermometers on it and take readings a couple of times a day. I had an electric heat band on my carboys in the winter to try and keep the temperature at a constant. I suggest keeping a eye on your hydrometer readings as well. The only other thing I can think of, if it's not temperature, it may by a pre-warning to the fermentation sticking. This can be caused by old yeast, not using a yeast starter or any number of other reasons. If it does stick have some fresh yeast on hand and repitch. Hope someone else writes in too if they have also experienced something like this.Good Luck Kiwi Bruce  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6236" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T19:22:23.710" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-01-12T19:22:23.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11353" CreationDate="2014-01-12T20:32:39.980" Score="0" ViewCount="2346" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/kontra-smash-ipa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;My first brew&lt;/a&gt; is currently fermenting on its 6th day. I just checked the temperature and it was quite a bit lower than what I initially thought. The temperature in the room is 12'C (54'F) and the brew had almost the same temperature. I just did a test with my hydrometer and it measured to 1020, which translates to around 1019 with temperature adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used the White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this brew spilled or can I do anything to save it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6253" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T22:26:58.237" Title="Beer fermenting too cold?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2760" CreationDate="2014-01-12T21:06:31.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed an IPA using magnum for bittering and tons of Centennial and Cascade hops, the result was a very heavy mango flavored IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first time I used Centennial, so I'm assuming this hop provided the mango flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saludos&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6280" LastEditorUserId="6534" LastEditDate="2017-12-20T14:30:52.663" LastActivityDate="2017-12-20T14:30:52.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11350" CreationDate="2014-01-12T21:21:30.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are trying to ferment way below optimal temp range. However yeast can do his work at the 54F. What's the OG of your brew? Do you perceived bubbling on the airlock? Any sign of krauzen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saludos&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6280" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T21:21:30.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11350" CreationDate="2014-01-12T22:26:58.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should try to raise the temperature of the beer back up to around 68F/20C, and give it a gentle shake to try to get the yeast resuspended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you will see airlock activity - this doesn't necessarily mean fermentation has started, but that the higher temperature is causing the gas in the headspace to expand and exit the airlock. Leave it for another 3-5 days and then check the gravity to see if fermentation started. With any luck, it should be complete and you hit FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T22:26:58.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-12T23:13:19.480" Score="1" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a very new homebrewer and this may be a really wacky question, but I'm curious nonetheless. Every time I've made fresh juice using a juicer, I'm at a loss for what to do with the leftover pulp, and I feel bad throwing it away. I'd read of recipes utilizing the pulp in bread or muffins, but I'm not much of a baker. But, I was wondering if the pulp could possibly be used in a homebrew. Obviously, there's loads of beer being made with fruits and spices,but has anyone heard of pulp in particular being used? Any insight on when would be a good time to add it to the wort/beer? While boiling and adding malt? Right before starting fermentation? Any insight would be really appreciated. Thanks for reading! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6281" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T18:26:33.793" Title="Leftover Juicing Pulp in Beer?" Tags="|techniques|ingredients|fruit|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11357" CreationDate="2014-01-13T07:54:28.910" Score="0" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I extract brew, and the kits I buy from NB tell me to add cold water to the wort to get a total of 5 gallons, and then aerate before adding the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I do this I will always have more than 5 gallons of total solvent after pouring the yeast in, unless I try to add an amount of water less to the carboy equal to the volume of the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be easier for me to put the yeast in and then top off with cold water until 5 gallons, and then aerate (I use an aeration stone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T13:18:56.040" Title="May I Aerate AFTER Pouring Yeast into the Carboy?" Tags="|yeast|extract|yeast-starters|aeration|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11354" CreationDate="2014-01-13T12:09:00.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out other questions on adding fruit to beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/490/how-to-add-fruit-to-beer?rq=1&quot;&gt;How to add fruit to beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess though that if you're adding just fruit skins, then your beer is going to be sour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6284" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T16:57:43.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11355" CreationDate="2014-01-13T13:18:56.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does not need to be 5.00000 gallons, don't worry about the small differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can aerate after pitching the yeast, so long as it's immediately after; the yeast need oxygen during the lag phase, but once alcohol starts being produced, you don't want to introduce oxygen at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T13:18:56.040" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11359" CreationDate="2014-01-13T13:57:12.670" Score="1" ViewCount="3666" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you notice any benefits in flavour or yeast activity over a regular air pump?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By not blowing dirty air through your wort, could it keep down infections/contamination?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does pumping regular air through wort increase risks of infections/contamination?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Useful Pages&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2725/how-to-properly-oxygenate-wort&quot;&gt;Oxygen Dissolved In Wort&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Shaking - 4ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Air + Air Stone - 8ppm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Oxygen + Air Stone - 14ppm&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T14:18:59.647" Title="Why use Oxygen tanks to aerate wort, what are the benefits?" Tags="|wort|aeration|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-01-13T20:39:45.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11358" CreationDate="2014-01-13T15:01:55.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxygenating your wort using a tank is leaps and bounds more efficient (as well as more expensive) than agitation or splashing.  Simply agitating or splashing your wort to oxygenate it will work for most average gravity beers (you're aiming for a minimum of eight parts per million of oxygen minimum), but will otherwise require a significant amount of effort if you ever need to oxygenate above eight parts per million (PPM), up to 10PPM for high gravity beers.  10PPM of oxygen would be near impossible to accomplish via splashing, since the air we breathe only contains up to 21% oxygen in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a air pump like what you would see in aquarium tanks should also be used with a High Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) filter to prevent any of the ambient microbial contaminants from flowing through the pump, since it is just pulling in the air around it.  Also, the stones used on aquarium pumps aren't as efficient as the 0.5 micron diffusers you could get for pure oxygen tanks (plus aquarium stones fall apart quickly and leave particulates in the yeast cake).  You could likely achieve the necessary 8 - 10 PPM using the stones for aquarium pumps, but it will take between 15 - 30 minutes to accomplish, where pure oxygen with a 0.5 micron diffusion stone will take only a minute or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to taste a beer that lacked the proper levels of oxygen prior to fermentation versus a beer that was properly oxygenated, you will most certainly be able to taste the difference.  The most obvious will be that the higher final gravity between the two beers.  The one that lacked oxygen will have a much higher FG than the one that was properly oxygenated, the effects multiplied the higher the OG is.  That said, it's been my personal experience that over-oxygenating your wort will result in a lower than anticipated FG.  I recall splitting a batch for experimentation, the OG was approximately 1.068, one I aerated through agitation by setting the carboy on its side and rolling back and forth vigorously for 5 minutes.  The other batch I aerated with pure oxygen for about 5-7 minutes before my tank peetered out on me, and the latter batch finished a full 10-11 gravity points lower than the one aerated through agitation (1.011 vs 1.000).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you would not need to worry about filtering bottled oxygen, no contaminants would survive a can of pure, pressurized oxygen.  Also, make sure there's no open flames or sparks near the wort while oxygenating using pure oxygen, as there are few gases that are readily accessible and more flammable than pure oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T18:55:00.170" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T18:55:00.170" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-13T15:10:27.617" Score="0" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Mr.Beer Home Brew Kit. First Batch, its been 14 days of fermentation, still cloudy, took a sample taste and it taste like flat beer, should I bottle or wait a few more days to see if it clears up anymore?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6287" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T13:41:55.793" Title="To Bottle or Not to Bottle?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11344" CreationDate="2014-01-13T15:18:13.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I understand that the Johnson A419 Temperature Controller can only do hot or cold at one time. Which mode does it default to when you buy it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Not sure whether or not the default mode was cold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check to see if there is a snow-flake icon to the right of the temperature, indicating that it is set to cold.  I can't recollect off the top of my head what the icon turns to when it's switched to heat, but I know it won't be a snow-flake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The water in the carboy is not heating up -- How hot can the Fermawrap get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the addition of insulation, I've seen my FermWrap get a 7 gallon batch of liquid up by about ~15-20°F. With insulation (such as double layered &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/b/Reflectix/N-5yc1vZ19n&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reflectix&lt;/a&gt;, I'd avoid easy-to-melt insulation such as bubble wrap), about +30-40°F (I recall having my thermostat set to 66°F and having the johnson controller stick at 109°F).  Wrap the entire thing in a heat blanket as well as insulation, and I haven't bothered to go any higher than +45-50°F (sour mashing), but it probably could go higher depending on the heat blanket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're figured out the heat settings part, and yes it took me a while to dial in the settings where I need them as well, but once I did, the thing works like a charm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T15:18:13.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11358" CreationDate="2014-01-13T16:43:58.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to use one, but I found it a hassle to use compared to my MixStir aerator.  In addition, I found the Mixstir to work as well as any other method and it's considerably less expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T16:43:58.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11360" CreationDate="2014-01-13T18:41:31.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you believe fermentations is complete (No more bubbles in airlock or correct FG), You have a few options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue to wait and let gravity slowly do it's thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully transfer the beer to the fridge and &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2766/what-is-cold-crashing&quot;&gt;Cold Crash&lt;/a&gt; your beer. Particles including &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11367/what-is-chill-haze-and-how-do-i-get-rid-of-chill-haze&quot;&gt;Chill Haze&lt;/a&gt; will fall out of suspension, given time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feeling impatient, you could bottle the beer now and just be left with a bit more sediment in the bottles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feeling impatient with pocket change, Go to Homebrew shop and buy some &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11365/what-are-finings-how-does-finings-work&quot;&gt;Fining&lt;/a&gt; which is something you add to clear the beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend option 1 or 2 if your new. You have plenty of time to faff around with finings on other batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Question may be helpful if and when it is answered.&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11365/what-are-finings-how-does-finings-work&quot;&gt;What Are Finings? How Does Finings Work?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2766/what-is-cold-crashing&quot;&gt;What is Cold Crashing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11367/what-is-chill-haze-and-how-do-i-get-rid-of-chill-haze&quot;&gt;What is Chill Haze?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T18:55:09.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9788" CreationDate="2014-01-13T18:46:30.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned before, using a swamp cooler is an excellent idea. In addition, if you work long days like me, and have no AC, like me, and your ice has dificulty maintaining the cooler themps you want, like me... you can add a small fan or even a box fan, blowing on a beach towel draped over the fermentation vessel thats dipped in the water. this adds additional evaporation causing the towel to become a cool layer of insulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T18:46:30.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11378" CreationDate="2014-01-13T18:47:22.540" Score="4" ViewCount="1390" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are fining agents?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do fining agents work?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T14:21:43.127" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T14:21:43.127" Title="What are finings? How do finings work?" Tags="|finings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2014-01-13T18:48:50.813" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beersmith has an iphone app that I use for calculating ABV based off of temp/OG vs temp/FG&#xA;its pretty sweet and its so easy that I can use it even after a few samplings of big beers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T18:48:50.813" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-01-13T18:48:50.813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11368" CreationDate="2014-01-13T18:52:46.510" Score="6" ViewCount="10775" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is Chill Haze?&lt;br&gt;How Do I get rid of Chill Haze?&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T21:29:40.170" Title="What is Chill Haze and How Do I get rid of Chill Haze?" Tags="|chilling|finings|cloudy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11367" CreationDate="2014-01-13T19:22:27.697" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easily put, chill haze is the result of haze-producing proteins that reside in the beer.  They do not react unless chilled, at which point they clump together.  At that point, they become visible enough to reflect light.  Since the particulates are white in color, they give the appearance of haze.  These proteins are slightly heavier than the beer, so given enough time in the fridge (potentially weeks), or in cold temperature, they will fall out of suspension.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The use of fining agents in the boil kettle as well as before bottling/kegging can help to reduce chill-haze, as can a good rolling boil and a quick chilling to pitching temperatures after the boil is complete (forming your hot break).  As far as fining agents, in the boil kettle, one of the more popular to use is Irish Moss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After fermentation has completed, there are two other popular fining agents, if used, they both should be applied after the beer has been chilled in the fermentation vessel to help drop out the yeast as well as form the chill-haze.  Two popular fining agents for this are gelatin, which can be added right before bottling or kegging (note: gelatin is not vegan friendly), or polyclar, which should be added days before racking off for bottling or kegging to allow it to settle out to the bottom of the fermeter.  Polyclar is essentially powdered plastic and no one wants to drink plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process behind using Gelatin and Polyclar is as follows (thanks to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2012/06/how-to-clear-your-beer-with-gelatin.html&quot;&gt;Bertus Brewery&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With your beer chilled down and gelatin in hand, let's get to the process of fining your beer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Get a microwave-safe glass cup. I like to use a pyrex measuring cup. Measure out 2/3 cup cold water. Any water will work, but I wouldn't&#xA;  use tap water if it tastes like crap. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Add one teaspoon of gelatin, and stir the solution. I like to use using my thermometer probe, so I can check the temperature at the same&#xA;  time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Place the water/gelatin mixture in the microwave, and begin to heat it 15-30 seconds at a time, stopping to stir the solution and check&#xA;  the temperature. As it heats up, you'll notice the gelatin will begin&#xA;  to dissolve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The goal is to heat the gelatin to 150F, but not much over. If it climbs to 155 or so, that's fine, but I'd be hesitant to go much over&#xA;  170F. We're not trying to make jello, rather just trying to pasteurize&#xA;  the solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Give the mixture one last stir, and dump it straight into your beer. Gently swirl the fermenter or keg, and return it to your fridge or&#xA;  kegerator for 24-48 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If you used a keg, purge the headspace with CO2 to remove any oxygen that got mixed in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heres a &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/486-conquer-chill-haze&quot;&gt;BYO article on chill haze&lt;/a&gt; that's worth a read as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T19:22:27.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11358" CreationDate="2014-01-13T20:39:21.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started using O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; and temperature control, as well as turning my attention to brewing big beers (SG 1.100+). These big beers have come out clean, attenuated well, and were generally much better than previous attempts to brew even moderate beers around SG 1.070.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T14:18:59.647" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T14:18:59.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11367" CreationDate="2014-01-13T20:49:15.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple, easy way to get rid of chill haze is to cold condition the beer for a couple months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T20:49:15.820" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-14T00:49:43.220" Score="0" ViewCount="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just made my first brew and I started the fermentation process in a plastic container. Should I transfer the brew into a glass fermenter? It's only been sitting in the plastic one for 2 days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6292" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T04:32:29.260" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T04:32:29.260" Title="Changing fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|beginner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-01-14T07:38:17.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11371" CreationDate="2014-01-14T00:54:06.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about it, it's fine. Plenty of people ferment in plastic, either buckets or better bottles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T00:54:06.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11377" CreationDate="2014-01-14T01:42:17.533" Score="1" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;So... I just enjoyed my fist bottle of my first batch of home brew, and overall it was a success.  I know the saying is &quot;pour your first batch down the drain!&quot;, but my first batch will certainly give me beer for a few weeks.  Not the best beer I have ever had, but certainly drinkable and hoppy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a Double IPA kit from Brewer's Best, with Columbus hops for flavor and Cascade hops for aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could sit here and try to analyze my beer all day long, but I want to keep this simple and &quot;pick on&quot; the two biggest flaws I can detect.  The first is that the hop aroma disappeared almost immediately after opening the bottle.  When I first cracked the cap, it had a nice strong aroma, and after I poured it into my glass it also had an aroma.  However, after a few sips the aroma was gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second flaw was the color, it had much more of an amber color than most double IPA's I have seen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my questions are, what are some common mistakes or errors in the brewing process which I could look to correct in my second batch to reverse these flaws??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I boiled for 60 minutes, adding Columbus Hops at the start and with 15 minutes left, and then adding the Cascade hops at the end.  I let the wort cool in an ice bath, and it took about 2 hours to cool.  I transferred to my primary fermenter via a siphon, and I let it ferment for 15 days.  I bottled on 12/30/2013 and two weeks later (today) I cracked open my first bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&#xA;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6143" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T07:40:29.123" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T13:19:46.433" Title="Little hop aroma in first batch" Tags="|aroma|color|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11373" CreationDate="2014-01-14T02:46:13.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not much you can do about the colour, aside from pick a different kit. The colour is a result of the mix of grains used to make the extract. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get more hop aroma, you could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dry hopping&lt;/a&gt; with couple ounces of a nice aroma hop like Cascade. After fermentation has completed, add two ounces of hops to the beer. Some brewers like to put the hops in a  muslin bag. This keeps things tidier when you're bottling, but might diminish the aroma contributed by the hops. Leave the hops in the beer for 4 to 7 days, then bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T02:46:13.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11340" CreationDate="2014-01-14T04:04:50.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recipe you followed is for a (mostly) non-alcoholic ginger beer (a soda/soft drink). The fermentation here is really just for carbonation. Not sure if you get Fentiman's where you live, but it's like that. It should be sweet with little alcohol, so you did it right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding more ginger flavor is easy - just add more ginger. I use this recipe for a soft drink: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeffreymorgenthaler.com/2008/how-to-make-your-own-ginger-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jeffreymorgenthaler.com/2008/how-to-make-your-own-ginger-beer/&lt;/a&gt; ferment 24-48 hrs but I often backsweeten - I add pineapple juice or simple syrup to serve because it's hard to get the sweetness right with the yeast eating it. An ounce of ginger per liter should be enough. I recommend using a microplane zester or fine grater to grate the ginger (and keep the juice), or put some of the water and ginger in a blender to get it pureed. It's more potent that way than putting in even finely chopped ginger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what you're after is an alcoholic ginger beer, you're going to need a different recipe and different equipment. First off, you'll need more sugar and a longer fermentation time. If you want something simple, you can try the famous &lt;a href=&quot;http://skeeterpee.com/?page_id=17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Skeeter Pee recipe&lt;/a&gt; but replace most of the lemon with ginger. Also, skeeter pee is like 10%, I would probably use half that amount of sugar to get in the 5% range. Again, an ounce of ginger per liter should be enough - microplaned or pureed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were inspired by Crabbie's, you will need to add other ingredients - different kinds of sugars along with spices for flavor. If you search for something like 'crabbies clone hombrew recipe' you should find something to get you started. You'll probably get standard 5 gallon batch recipes, so you may need to scale. Desktop and online homebrew recipe calculators can help you scale, or you can do the math by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've never brewed beer before, then, in terms of equipment, you will need a fermentor with an airlock, so that CO2 can escape and your fermentor doesn't explode, but no bad microorganism or oxygen can get in. Then you can carbonate after fermentation by bottle conditioning - i.e. bottling with priming sugar. For this step, you will want to consult a homebrewing book or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/intro.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;web guide&lt;/a&gt; to get the ideas down. You won't be making beer, but fermentation and carbonation are the same in principle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make it a 'malt liquor' by using a mix of light dry malt extract (dme), corn sugar and sugar - this may taste a little more beery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, look into recipes for homebrewed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=ginger%20wine%20homebrew%20recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ginger wine&lt;/a&gt; - it's a similar beverage but it's brewed around 10% abv. I think it's comes from Scotland but I've never tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I like to add dark rum to good fermented or non-alcoholic ginger beer for a dark 'n stormy :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T07:37:00.870" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T07:37:00.870" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11373" CreationDate="2014-01-14T10:27:04.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Tobias nicely put, there isn't much you can do about the colour. Although, I would not think too much about it having &quot;much more of an amber color than most double IPA's I have seen&quot;. Unless you distinctly are looking for a specific colour, I would bother thinking about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to the aroma I would suggest that you review your hop schedule; there is a nice graph displaying rough times of hop contributions to bitterness/flavour/aroma. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lkb7f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this as a guide, try to have an addition of aroma hops between 5-10 before the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also wish to check for different types of aroma hops, and how they will affect the beer. A very nice guide to different hops is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopschart.com/zoom.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HopChart&lt;/a&gt;, it may contain almost too much information, but it gives you a clear view of the different effects each hops will have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And lastly, welcome to homebrewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T10:27:04.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11373" CreationDate="2014-01-14T13:19:46.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you've got 2 problems here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) The first is that the hop aroma disappeared almost immediately after&#xA;  opening the bottle..... I let the wort cool in an ice bath, and it&#xA;  took about 2 hours to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two things are connected. When you add the Cascade hops right at the very end of the boil, their purpose was to impart some nice, American-style hop aroma to the finished beer. Unfortunetly, since it took you 2 hours to cool down, virtually all of that hop aroma was lost, as the hops continued to sit in the hot wort too long. Think of it like over-shooting the temp on a nice medium-rare steak. If you leave it in too long, you'll end up with medium or medium-well, which is still nice, but not what you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the chill done faster, there's a couple things you can try for next time. You can simply add more ice. Just buy twice as much and drain off the melted water after 20min or so and add some more. Another tip is to continuously swirl the ice water around the carboy/bucket/kettle as it cools, like an ice cream maker. Ideally, you should swirl the liquid in the in the opposite direction of the ice-swirl. That helps a lot, surprisingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you can do something like boil down to 4 gallons of wort, then pull a jug of sealed, clean water out of the fridge, and pour it into the wort to hit 5 gallons. This will drop your wort a fair bit right off the bat. You want to get down past 170F or so as fast as you can, the rest of the cooling down to 65F pitching temps can take a little longer, but above 170F and you are &quot;cooking off&quot; your hop flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you continue to homebrew, and you love hoppy beers, you'll eventually need to buy what's called a &quot;chiller&quot;, which is a device used to cool wort down quickly, but it takes some $$$ up front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a last ditch effort, if you just can't get that kettle cooled down under an hour, take whatever hops your recipe says to put in at the end, and add them as &quot;dry hops&quot; instead. Heck, DOUBLE that amount! Honestly, DIPA needs a heavy charge of dry hopping to achieve the style anyway, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) The second flaw was the color, it had much more of an amber color than&#xA;  most double IPA's I have seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very common (minor) flaw in extract beers. Here's a tip that's not immediately obvious: you do not have to boil all the extract for 60 minutes. What you are doing is boiling the HOPS for 60min to achieve the appropriate bitterness, and you have to do this in wort (not plain water), BUT you do not have to use all the extract up front. Just put in, say, a quarter of all the extract up front, and boil for 60min with that. With maybe 10min left in the boil, add the rest. Sounds crazy, but once you consider that extract has already been boiled down into a syrup, you boiling it for 50 extra minutes doesn't change anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when you boil the total extract together is that you &quot;darken&quot; the wort, like cooking caramel too long. By diluting the concentration, you stop this from happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you first batch was just a little too dark, and didn't quite have enough hop aroma, I'd still say you did a great job. There's a LOOOT worse that can happen. Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T13:19:46.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11365" CreationDate="2014-01-14T13:48:52.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Original Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The What&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Finings are substances that are usually added at or near the&#xA;  completion of the processing of brewing wine, beer, and various&#xA;  nonalcoholic juice beverages. Their purpose is for removal of organic&#xA;  compounds; to either improve clarity or adjust flavor/aroma.&#xA;  Specifically, the removed compounds may be sulfides, proteins,&#xA;  polyphenols, benzenoids, or copper ions. Unless they form a stable&#xA;  bottom sediment in the final container, the spent finings are usually&#xA;  discarded from the beverage along with the target compounds that they&#xA;  capture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;The How: Neutralising Charges&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The electrostatic types comprise the vast majority. Their purpose is&#xA;  to selectively remove proteins, tannins (polyphenolics) and coloring&#xA;  particles (melanoidins). They must be used as a batch technique, as&#xA;  opposed to flow-through processing methods such as filters. Their&#xA;  particles each have an electric charge which is attracted to the&#xA;  oppositely charged particles of the colloidal dispersion that they are&#xA;  breaking. The result is that the two substances become bound as a&#xA;  stable complex; their net charge becoming neutral. Thus the&#xA;  agglomeration of a semi-solid follows, which may be separated from the&#xA;  beverage either as a floating or settled mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;The How: Absorbtion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Although activated carbon may be implemented as a flow-through filter, it is also commonly&#xA;  utilized as a batch ingredient, which later must be separated and&#xA;  discarded from the beverage. It can completely/partially remove&#xA;  benzenoid compounds and all classes of polyphenols non-specifically,&#xA;  decolorizing and deodorizing juices and wines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;The How: Enzymes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The enzymatic finings are pectin and pectinase. They aid in destroying&#xA;  the large polysaccharide molecule named pectin,[clarification needed]&#xA;  which otherwise causes haze in fruit wines and juices. They are among&#xA;  the few finings that are added before juices are fermented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T13:48:52.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6668" CreationDate="2014-01-14T14:08:46.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry Ice&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Couldn't you pour your liquid into a pressure safe container, add some dry Ice and seal the container.&lt;p&gt;I don't know how much dry ice to you, I imagine a little, otherwise congratulations you've just made a bomb, good luck finding your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T14:08:46.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11360" CreationDate="2014-01-14T19:47:29.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to wait out that first batch eh? I know, been there like most of the guy (and gals) here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im with Another Compiler Error in waiting it out. I have found that in most cases, (I've only brewed ales so far) that fermentation is finished within the first 10 days, but the longer I let it sit (so far up to 4 weeks) the better it comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say instead of buying finings, I would buy another fermenter and some ingredients and make another batch to keep you busy :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T19:47:29.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11383" CreationDate="2014-01-14T20:07:06.823" Score="0" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen lots of posts where guys say they stayed up late because their wort hadn't reached pitch temp until 4am or somethinglike that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the harm in just going to bed at 1 or 2, waking up and pitching 6 hours later? or even 8 hours later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T21:40:51.700" Title="Is it important to reach pitch temps quickly?" Tags="|temperature|pitch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11381" CreationDate="2014-01-14T20:39:17.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look up some information on no-chill brewing, which is a method for doing exactly that.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/No_Chill_Method&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/No_Chill_Method&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One drawback is that if bacteria or wild yeast does make it into your wort, it will have a head start on growth, where otherwise the inoculation of brewer's yeast might overpower the bad bugs and minimize impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you're not doing anything to expedite the chilling process, it may affect the isomerization of hops, depending on the style you're making.  Basically, late addition hops flavor and aroma will change (generally in an undesirable way) if they stay in hot wort too long.  No-chill brewing incorporates some practices (like first wort hopping) to counter this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3282" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T20:39:17.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11381" CreationDate="2014-01-14T20:40:14.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a couple of concerns regarding this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The longer your beer takes to begin fermentation, the longer it is prone to (more easily) become infected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on how slowly it is being cooled, you may have clarity issues.  You need to chill it quickly to form a good cold-break which is essential to clarity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, 8 hours isn't a terrible amount of time for wort to sit.  I've been in the same circumstance you described, even to the point where I've dozed off (aka drank too much while waiting until 4AM) and pitched the yeast as soon as I woke up, realizing I let my wort sit unattended.  Make sure it's covered as best as possible (not the easiest to do with immersion chillers), not in a drafty area, and you will likely be fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T21:40:51.700" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T21:40:51.700" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11367" CreationDate="2014-01-14T21:29:40.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I liked the simple answer, it was very informative.  The most fun way to get rid of chill haze is to pour the home brew into an opaque container, and drink it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1793" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T21:29:40.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11388" CreationDate="2014-01-15T00:27:34.523" Score="1" ViewCount="2859" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious to start making my own recipes, and am thinking about trying 1 gallon batches. I would guess the conditioning time would be the same, since by then it's all in it's own bottles, so there's no difference there from the 5 gallon batch (just fewer bottles). However Is the fermentation and settling time the same for a small batch vs a full 5 gallon batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T10:28:06.313" Title="Smaller batches Fermentation Time" Tags="|first-time-brewer|small-batch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11396" CreationDate="2014-01-15T05:47:59.603" Score="0" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on my second batch, and decided to ferment in the carboy, so I could watch. It's on day 3 fermenting, I've got a nice thick krausen (needed a blowoff tube). However, I noticed it seems like it's 'raining' sediment from the krausen. It basically looks like globs of what eventually ends up as the yeast cake, falling down from the top. Is this normal, or did my wort get infected somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T17:31:15.857" Title="Fermenter Sediment" Tags="|first-time-brewer|krausen|sediment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11386" CreationDate="2014-01-15T07:26:28.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Completely normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't watch it you wouldn't be worrying... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2637" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T07:26:28.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11385" CreationDate="2014-01-15T10:28:06.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question it is important that you first understand what it is that the yeast is actually doing whilst in the &quot;fermentation stage&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have added your yeast to your batch it will begin with a so called lag phase. This is mainly the yeast getting climatised with the new environment. In this phase the yeast also start to take up minerals and amino acids from the beer, this to get to the amount of nutrients it needs in order to complete the fermentation. If the wort does not have enough the yeast will have to start to produce its own nutrients. So depending on the quality of the wort this time will differ. The entire lag phase can differ from anywhere between a few hours up to 15-24 hours. Until this phase is completed, the yeast will no yet start to ferment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next phase is the growth of the yeast, during this phase the yeast will consume the sugars in the brew; producing CO2 and alcohol. During this phase the flavour compund is also produced, meaning that this phase is the most important part of your brew. Not only is it significant for the alcohol content of your beer, but it also affects it impacts the falvour greatly. This phase usually takes between 1 to 4 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the final phase of the process the growth of yeast is slowed down and the beer reaches a maturing phase. The yeast now starts to &quot;flocculate&quot; (basically it is settling down). It is during this phase it is important to make sure that the beer has reached its final gravity. If it has not, and the yeast has started flocculating before it has reached it's terminal gravity, it has to be &quot;roused&quot; to ensure that it fully consumes all the fermentable sugars. This process takes at least three days, and can be left here for maturing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to speed up the process it is possible to increase the initial yeast/sugar-ratio. This will introduce more yeast that can quicker consume the sugars in the wort, however this will also decrease the possibility for each yeast to reach the optimum level of nutrients it needs in order to fully ferment the beer. Meaning that each yeast will be less healthy in this case. To reach an amount of yeast that is pitched that reduces the quality (or health) of the yeast is however unlikely when homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you introduce the same amount of yeast in a smaller batch you will see a reduction in the second phase since you introduce more yeast particles to consume the sugars. You might however see a slightly longer lag phase, since it will take longer for the yeast to acclimatise itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T10:28:06.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11360" CreationDate="2014-01-15T13:41:55.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check to make sure that you have reached your FG. If that is the case go ahead and bottle the beer.  After it is carbonated and you put it in the fridge to cool off for a few days it will clear some more.&#xA;If you are looking for more clear beer you can try to add some finings to your beer your homebrew shop will help you pick some out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T13:41:55.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11392" CreationDate="2014-01-15T13:52:16.887" Score="1" ViewCount="2135" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible or advantageous to cold crash after bottling?  I am aftaid if I cold crash for 2-3 weeks before I bottle that all the yeast will settle out and I wont have any to provide carbonation in the bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I cold crash in the bottle, will the increased sediment contribute to long-term storage issues?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume that I hit my FG and that no additional fermentation will take place (other than bottle carbing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6300" LastEditorUserId="6300" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T18:27:21.717" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T18:27:21.717" Title="Cold Crashing in the bottle?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|secondary-fermentation|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11390" CreationDate="2014-01-15T14:00:58.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should have enough yeast still in solution after cold crashing before you bottle.  You should not have any issues with this much time.  If you were to wait a few months then I would worry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do cold crash in the bottle there will be some increased sediment but if you are careful when you pour no a problem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are going to dry hop in your fermenter for a long time I would transfer to a secondary fermenter to get the beer of of the yeast.  If it is only for a few days I don't think there will be much issue at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T14:00:58.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11390" CreationDate="2014-01-15T14:57:58.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will want to dry-hop at normal/fermentation temps for the best hop oil extraction.  Dry-hopping cold is going to be an inefficient use of precious hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about (or better: experience via experiment) low bottle carbonation/refermentation, you can always pitch new yeast during bottling.  Some highly-flocculant strains might be sufficiently reduced during cold crashing to limit bottle carbonation, but I don't say that with high confidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T14:57:58.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11395" CreationDate="2014-01-15T21:12:48.217" Score="2" ViewCount="2578" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last batch of beer I have made seems to have a lot more sediment in it than any of my other beers. It has been sitting for 3 weeks and some of the bottles when I pour have gloopy looking sediment which I am presuming is a yeast cake type of thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is a Muntons Connoisseurs Larger with an OG of 1.048. I used Copper Tun Czech Pilsner No 62 for the first time (instead of 1kg of dextrose) and added an extra cup of castor sugar. After 6 days fermenting I added Wakatu hops by dry hopping without using a muslin bag and let it sit for another 10 days before bottling. The FG was 1.010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer tastes fine but there is a bit of wastage when I am pouring them. Is the extra sediment cause by the use of the Copper Tun Czech Pilsner No 62 or is it something else I may have done? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only difference between this beer and the others I have made is the additional Copper Tun Czech Pilsner No 62 and not using a muslin bag with the hops. I also note that the OG and FG are higher than I normally would have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the difference between two beers I have done. One was using the method above, the other was using dextrose, and hopped in a muslin bag. I had to use the flash for the image so you cant see the clarity as good but you can see the sediment better.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KRJck.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottle difference&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2014-01-17T22:35:32.420" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T22:35:32.420" Title="Thick blobs of yeast cake looking stuff in my bottles (Image Added)" Tags="|beer|sediment|cloudy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11237" CreationDate="2014-01-15T21:13:51.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you wanted to know is &quot;Do you have to capp the bottle right away?&quot;&#xA;if you are bottling from a freshly racked bucket, it really doesnt matter of you cap and fill one at a time, or if you fill 50 then cap them all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the long run, the Model T taught us that if you do a repetitious task it will go faster than retooling. So, filling all the bottles first, then capping them would be the most efficient use of time. However, it can get tedious and if you have limited space, like in an apartment, it may not be pracitcal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, I put out about 12 bottles (spacxe issue) fill'em, then cap'em. Then put out 12 more. I have also done a full batch when I had better quarters. I've see no difference in the beer using either method. Essentially, the beer is exposed in the bottles while you are filling the rest, or exposed in the bucket while you are capping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T21:13:51.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11393" CreationDate="2014-01-15T21:51:32.610" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely since you are bottling directly from your fermentation vessel through a spigot that the spigot is low enough on the vessel that it is able to pull in a bit of the yeast cake as you fill your bottles.  Each batches' yeast cake at the bottom of the vessel will vary in size depending on such things as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Original gravity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Proteins and cold break in the wort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quantity of dry hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher the original gravity is, the more the yeast will re-produce, therefor the more yeast there is to settle out to the bottom of the vessel once fermentation is complete.  The more proteins there are in the wort, the more there will be to settle out.  Did you use a fining agent (e.g. irish moss) in your boil and then pour the entire contents of the boil kettle into the bucket?  That would be a lot of proteins that get poured in and immediately settle to the bottom.  If not, those proteins that would normally settle out right away will slowly settle over time, either in the vessel, or in your bottles.  For future reference, if you are using boiling kettle fining agents, use your siphon to track the beer from the boil kettle to your fermentation vessel, avoiding sucking up the cold break at the bottom of the kettle.  Finally, if you dry hop using pellet form hops, they will absorb wort and sink to the bottom of your vessel, contributing to the size of the yeast cake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, proteins and yeast that are still in suspension in the beer will settle out, so the thickness of the trub in the bottom of your bottles will slightly increase over time.  It's best to let them sit in your refrigerator after they've carbonated, which will help to get all of that to settle out, and stick to the bottom of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, take a book or two and prop up one side of your fermentation vessel, the side that the spigot is on.  This will raise the spigot up higher than the opposing edge where the majority of the yeast cake will settle out at.  Let it sit like that for the entirety of the fermentation and aging.  On bottling day, bottle while tilted, until the last little bit is left in the vessel, then flatten it out and expect the last bottle to be your first &quot;is it carbonated yet&quot; bottle that you can easily discard since it will have the most amount of trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T21:51:32.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11386" CreationDate="2014-01-16T17:31:15.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like yeast cake because that is what it is. The yeast clumps together, and settles to the bottom as gets near the terminal gravity. That is called &quot;flocculation&quot;, and some strains are much more prone to it than others. If you go to the manufacturers web site, they usually give a rating: low, medium or high. With the high ones, sometimes it is beneficial to rock your carboy and swirl the fermenting wort to bring some of the yeast back into suspension. This is called &quot;rousing&quot; the yeast. (Obviously you want to be very careful handling glass carboys, so don't get too enthusiatic). If the yeast drops out too quickly, the beer may be underattenuated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T17:31:15.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11398" CreationDate="2014-01-16T19:42:37.647" Score="0" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;Krausen: to blow-off or not to blow-off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a large krausen (foamy head) in a fermentation vessel (FV), often the best remedy is to use a blow-off tube into a bottle of sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Would it be better to have a sufficient amount of head-space, so that nothing is lost from the FV, allowing all the yeast, wort, flavour, and hops to remain inside the FV? Has anyone noticed any loss of flavour with excessive blow-off, such as the loss of hop profile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T20:43:16.863" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T21:32:11.777" Title="Krausen: Blow off tube or Larger Headspace?" Tags="|krausen|blow-off|blow-off-tube|headspace|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11397" CreationDate="2014-01-16T21:32:11.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a question that's been debated with no definitive answer.  Some say it's better to blow off the braun hefe becasue of the bitterness it might contribute.  Others say it's better to use a larger fermenter so you don't lose yeast.  There really is no right or wrong answer other than &quot;try it each way and decide for yourself&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T21:32:11.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11400" CreationDate="2014-01-17T09:41:33.760" Score="1" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a difference between darker malts in the color they give to the brew? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Melanoiden malts are said to give a red color, chocolate malts should render the beer brown. But there is just one color scale (EBC, SRM) that seems to go from yellow to brown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I get a red color if I add a tiny bit of chocolate malt or will it just turn out brownish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2320" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T04:45:14.497" Title="Colour adjustment" Tags="|beer|malt|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11399" CreationDate="2014-01-17T12:45:17.140" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The definition of SRM scale is based on the absorption of light at a single wavelength, so it's only measuring one aspect of color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way the SRM views color is similar to how things look when you put them behind a yellow filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer color is of course more than one-dimensional - reds, oranges, even some green, but these are not taken into account with the SRM which is focused on yellow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_Reference_Method&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; goes into more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Determination of the SRM value involves measuring the attenuation of&#xA;  light of a particular wavelength (430 nm) in passing through 1 cm of&#xA;  the beer, expressing the attenuation as an absorption and scaling the&#xA;  absorption by a constant (12.7 for SRM; 25 for EBC). The SRM (or EBC)&#xA;  number represents a single point in the absorption spectrum of beer.&#xA;  As such it cannot convey full color information which would require 81&#xA;  points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that 430nm is in the blue region, measuring the absorption of that tells us how much blue light the substance absorbs. But it doesn't say what other light is reflected/absorbed. So, a completely red beer and a completely green beer would look quite similar on the SRM scale, since these colors absorb pretty much the same amount of blue. What makes them appear different is that they reflect different amounts of other colors, but this is not measured in the SRM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If some other scheme was going to try to represent color more accurately, you'd need to start writing multidimensional numbers like (15,28,90) to represent multiple absorption frequencies - and compared to a single SRM number these would be much harder to work with: is that beer darker or lighter than (80,8,25)? Since the eye perceives the different frequencies at different levels of intensity, intensity is non-linear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while a single SRM figure can't capture the full spectrum of beer color, the trade-off comes at much greater ease of use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't get a red color with chocolate malt - for that, try some of the medium crystals (e.g. CaraRed) or even roasted barley, which gives ruby highlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-01-21T04:45:14.497" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T04:45:14.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-17T14:04:03.260" Score="1" ViewCount="1602" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi Last year for the first time ever, I made Elderflower wine in September for our daughters wedding March 2014. I've left it alone since bottling it, however I've noticed there is sediment at the bottom of each bottle&#xA;[10] what do I do about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We opened one and the fizz was brilliant it was like champagne popping, so I don't want to disturb and lose the fizz is there anything I can do so it won't offend the wedding guests&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;Pat &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6306" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T18:24:45.907" Title="Sediment in bottled elderflower wine" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11336" CreationDate="2014-01-17T16:09:42.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the same problem. It is a leak, but highly unlikely it is through the tap. In most cases I've had it be the quick disconnects on the kegs. Those little rubber seals (I use ball lock) can crack pretty easy letting small leaks form that are hard to notice. So what I've started doing is taking a closer look at them and replacing them periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to save your gas in this situation: shut it off when you aren't using it. Flip off the gas at the tank, and each manifold if you're using one. If you have a leak you may lose pressure in one of your kegs for example, but at least you aren't draining a tank of gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T16:09:42.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11404" CreationDate="2014-01-17T16:37:45.910" Score="5" ViewCount="13926" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used mason jars to bottle in? What were your results if so? They are being sealed like when you can, so I'm especially curious if they hold pressure well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I know they are clear, and that presents risks as far as light exposure is concerned.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2023-08-04T00:50:24.250" Title="Using mason jars to bottle in?" Tags="|bottling|storage|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11403" CreationDate="2014-01-17T16:46:24.747" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mason jars are designed to retain a vacuum seal, not keep outward pressure in.  Chances are it may hold the pressure up to a certain point before the actual seal on the lid fails, but the glass itself is not tempered glass, and therefor is not designed to withstand the pressures of bottle conditioning.  Bottle conditioning inside of mason jars may easily result in... jar bombs.  I would advise against it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T16:46:24.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11403" CreationDate="2014-01-17T17:48:30.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't Do It&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The Mason Jars can withstand the pressure inside a pressure cooker, because the jars are usually sanitised with lids open (so steam goes everywhere) in the pressure cooker. The pressure is surrounding the glass, on the inside and the outside of the jar, acting ON the glass, the system (within the cooker) is balanced.&lt;br&gt; With bottling, the pressure of CO2 is HIGH inside the jar and LOW outside the jar, the system is not balanced. Pressure moves outwards smashing the weak unsuitable glass to balance the system.&lt;p&gt; If you really want to see for yourself, place yeast + sugar water in the jar and place inside a box somewhere of suitable temperature and away from everyone and everything!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-01-17T17:54:11.690" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T17:54:11.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11401" CreationDate="2014-01-17T18:14:27.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made the exact same stuff last summer. That stuff is LETHAL! lol I got terribly drunk.&lt;p&gt; What you have made is referred to as Country Champagne or Country Sparkling Wine, the sediment is Yeast which made the fizz and alcohol.&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have three options in my opinion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2766/what-is-cold-crashing&quot;&gt;Cold Crashing&lt;/a&gt; your bottles and store upright and undisturbed till March. Transfer them gently to wedding do not shake. Explain to everyone &quot;This rustic beauty was made for the special occasion and some sediment may stir up&quot;. Polite guest will love it, rude guests can go home.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continually pour the bottles into glasses and do not raise the bottle upright, the swirling will stir up sediment. Pour into glasses and hand out the glasses on trays to guests, so people don't see the sediment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5pH9CF756ZM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Disgorging&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; This is the process of storing bottles upsidedown and rotating over weeks for sediment to rest in the lid. When very cold a quick upside down pop of the lid shots out the sediment. You must place your thumb over the opening immediately! to not lose everything! When pressure calms down remove your thumb and top up with more champagne from a donor bottle (wine+sugar) and re-seal the bottles, the fizz will be regained.&lt;p&gt;To Aid you, you can have the bottles upside down in ice and salt to freeze &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; the neck, so that slush sediment is forced out a little slower so you loose less wine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got three bottles for disgorging just for giggles! I recommend practicing on sugar water and yeast first and watching tutorials if you really really wanna go down that route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt; My advice is 1 and 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T18:24:45.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11412" CreationDate="2014-01-17T18:32:00.857" Score="1" ViewCount="5302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just getting ready to setup my keezer. I like the ease of use with a collar, but my little 7 cubic foot freezer is only as tall as my junk. I am concerned that it will be uncomfortable to draw a nug and even worse for a pitcher at that height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tower has its own drawbacks obviously, such as cutting a hole in the freezer lid and opening the lid with the tower, and limiting my capacity to 2 kegs with a 10# CO2 bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For you guys out there that have had keezers for awhile, how do you feel about your setups? would you have gone the other route if you could? are you comfy while pulling draughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else have I forgotten to ask?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks in advance for your input!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T14:39:55.837" Title="Keezer ~ Collar vs Faucet top tower" Tags="|kegging|kegerator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11409" CreationDate="2014-01-17T18:33:44.703" Score="1" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is Disgorging and how is it performed on fizzy wine?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;I have heard it is a part of the process to make champagne.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T18:33:44.703" Title="What is Disgorging or Dégorgement?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|sediment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11408" CreationDate="2014-01-17T18:33:44.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptEzoPcehC4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Disgorging&lt;/a&gt; is a way to remove sediment from fizzy wines.&lt;p&gt;This is the process of storing bottles upsidedown and rotating over weeks for sediment to rest in the lid. When very cold a quick upside down pop of the lid shots out the sediment. You must place your thumb over the opening immediately! to not lose everything! When pressure calms down remove your thumb and top up with more champagne from a donor bottle (wine+sugar) and re-seal the bottles, the fizz will be regained.&#xA;To Aid you, you can have the bottles upside down in ice and salt to freeze only the neck, so that slush sediment is forced out a little slower so you loose less wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T18:33:44.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11407" CreationDate="2014-01-17T18:46:15.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am constructing one too from a chest freezer.&lt;p&gt; With the Tower config:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is awkward to open and close with all that faff hanging off the top, to aid in opening and closing you can have the keezer sideways, so you don't have to pull away from the wall to open and close.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tower setup often needs to be cooled to so you need to factor that&#xA;into your plans (I have no idea about that, little fan maybe?).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a the Collar config:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A low level keezer, which is what I have, you could either, build a higher collar or just&#xA;raise up the keezer, but you then have a trade off with how high do you lift the kegs in and out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could have a tap on a hose, not connected to the collar but slots in the collar so it is retractable to fill up a line of beers sitting ontop of the keezer.(Oooh wow I might do this!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt; Personally I don't care about the height I like the compact nature of my keezer, and 8-15 seconds pouring a pint is not gonna give me back ache, when my hands can comfortably reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-01-17T18:53:47.850" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T18:53:47.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11393" CreationDate="2014-01-17T18:55:11.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, I would expect to have sediment in the bottles if you bottle directly from the FV. Actually I am surprised that you havent had this before, probably the muslin bag was catching most of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, when I am bottling, I like to move my FV to it's racking location a day or 2 in advance of bottling so it has time to settle again after all the movement. Then I rack to the bottling bucket before I bottle, making sure the cake is below the spigot. &#xA;This allows you to avoid transferring most of the cake to your bottles. Also, when you add your bottling sugar, you need to make sure your wort is thoughourly mixed with it so that is another reason for racking to a bottling bucket (unless you use tablets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose if you want super clear beer, you could move to a short term secondary and allow more settling and rack that to a bottling bucket after a couple more days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, I have had a few batches with sediment and besides being careful during your pour, its all good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relax!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T18:55:11.127" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11407" CreationDate="2014-01-17T19:47:02.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built one from a chest freezer, putting a tower on top. I've had it nearly 7 years, and I love it. I put the chest freezer on a set of blocks, so it sits at the perfect height. You can pour whatever you would, just like you would from a professional setup at a bar. With mine I can hold a 5 lbs CO2 tank and 4 corny kegs. Here's the tap itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UDLlz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tower I have is a 3&quot; tower. Some of the ones you see geared towards home brewers are narrower than that. With my 3&quot; tower I've never had any problems with keeping it cool. In other words, I don't need a fan like you're suggesting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there is the problem with opening the lid as you mentioned. I put mine in the middle of the lid, so I can open it maybe 60 degrees or so. For checking gas lines, putting in a new keg, and so on this is admittedly a bit of a pain. But I've learned just to be careful opening it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I really like the &quot;professional&quot; look of the tower setup. It is something I'm proud to show off and not a jury rigged solution with the sole purpose of serving beer. If I were to do it all over again the only thing I'd do different is get a slightly larger freezer. That way I could keep an extra keg or two cold and on &quot;standby&quot; without having to use another fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T19:47:02.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11414" CreationDate="2014-01-17T19:51:25.803" Score="10" ViewCount="8499" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's been a lot of discussion around Clarity Ferm, and it's ability to break down gluten in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturers just say it makes &quot;gluten reduced beer&quot;, but Omission and others uses it to make what I believe is labelled a &quot;gluten free&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some home-brewers have made an all-grain with barley and wheat, and had it tested, and the lab could detect no gluten (they were only able to say there were &amp;lt;10 ppm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charlie Papazian did the same, with more detailed results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I homebrewed a batch of all malt beer called Slithy Tove Pale Ale (which included 10% malted wheat) to which I added 3 ml (about 3 drops) to a five gallon batch at the beginning of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The homebrewed beer was tested by a professional laboratory.  The results came back indicating that the gluten content in my batch of Slithy Tove Pale Ale was “less than 5 ppm.” In other words less than 5 milligrams per liter of beer.  In terms of percent, 5 ppm equals 0.0005 percent..  This level of gluten may be tolerated by Celiac patients.  Every other aspect of beer character, flavor, appearance (the enzyme did reduce chill haze), aroma, etc. was outstanding and identical to a beer brewed without the enzyme.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brother-in-law discovered he had CD about 6 months after getting into homebrewing (whcih seems pretty typical).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience with this? I'd like to make a small 1 or 3 gallon batch of IPA, and see how it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3297" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T15:14:13.203" Title="Any People with Celiacs Tried Clarity Ferm?" Tags="|beer|ingredients|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11413" CreationDate="2014-01-17T20:57:40.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made two split batches with Clarity ferm (all barley).  I can't tell the difference in taste, some claim it might knock the hops (aroma?) down a bit.  The person I made the beer for who has CD hasn't had any (detectable) adverse reactions from these two brews.  That said, I don't know the ins and outs of CD and if less than 5 ppm will affect some persons with CD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2912" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T20:57:40.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11416" CreationDate="2014-01-18T06:16:52.237" Score="0" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I bottled 6 days ago. I'm a little impatient, and want to see how my carbonation is going. What can I expect if I pop one open today? I haven't noticed any difference in the beer in the bottle, aside from the expected settling of the final sediment. By 'pop' I mean the 'spssss' sound when opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, if the cap pops when opened today, is it ready (obviously depends on testing and drinking it)? If not, how long until it's ready, given the pop and carb level after only 6 days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT1&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Just put one in the fridge. Will report back in an hour on the status. Here's hoping I get at least a little carb :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT2&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Just popped the test bottle. Got the pressure when popping the top, got a slight head. Feels half flat, as expected after only a week. Tastes amazing! This is my first bottle from my first batch. I think I did good, this is a very flavorful beer, good body, aroma, mouth feel. I'm proud to name it 'Frist'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2014-01-18T07:50:58.537" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T08:14:41.280" Title="Testing Bottling Carbonation" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11415" CreationDate="2014-01-18T08:14:41.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a first time brewer, I obviously had a lot of questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, in this it came down to RDWHAHB. I sampled a bottle. If you look at my recent questions, after racking to a secondary, I thought I lost the hops aroma. Nope! It's still there, in force. After only a week of bottle conditioning, I still had the hiss on opening. Beer was slightly carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more week and I should be done. My Gods This is fun! First batch a winner!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T08:14:41.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-18T15:43:20.717" Score="3" ViewCount="693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using campden in water to remove chlorine and chloramine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that it may inhibit the yeast. Should I leave it any length of time after use in order to minimise yeast inhibition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T18:42:20.723" Title="Using Campden in water" Tags="|yeast|water|campden|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11417" CreationDate="2014-01-18T15:53:11.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Used as you are using it, it will all be gone by the time you add yeast so there's no problem.  Not only are there hours between when you add the campden and the yeast, you'll be boiling the water before adding yeast.  I have used it to inhibit bacteria when I make cider, but 24 hours after adding I stir the juice and the campden off gasses and there's not enough left to have any impact on the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T15:53:11.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11428" CreationDate="2014-01-18T16:08:30.170" Score="1" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nature of my work is such that i have all the materials and tools to make a mill so i am not intrested on buying one.I want to know if there is a standard gap between the rollers for all type of grains or i should make it adjustable and if so what is the higher and the lower gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6241" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T04:16:35.547" Title="Malt mill gap adjustment" Tags="|equipment|all-grain|grain|mill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-18T17:01:49.350" Score="0" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am reading a lot about yeast cell production and ester production.  I think I have a good handle on the yeast cell production, but what are esters?  Is that part of what the yeast consume that give beer a off flavor?  I am trying to get as much info as I can to produce the best possible brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6190" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T17:54:49.190" Title="What are Esters?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11420" CreationDate="2014-01-18T17:54:49.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Esters in our context are the &quot;fruity&quot; aromas and flavors you get from beer.  The type and amount of them are related to the type of yeast you use and the temperature you ferment at are the two components that mainly determine the esters.  From the BJCP study guide......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Esters may be controlled by the choice of yeast strain, wort gravity, wort aeration, and fermentation&#xA;temperature. In general, ale yeast strains produce higher ester levels, although there are variances&#xA;among different ale strains. Lager yeast strains can, if fermented too warm, also produce esters as is&#xA;practiced in the making of French Bière de Garde styles. Wort gravity also is a factor; the hallmark&#xA;esters of Belgian Trappist styles are not only due to the yeast strains used but also a result of their high&#xA;gravity wort. Wort aeration also plays an important role, as the ester production pathway directly&#xA;competes with the absorption of oxygen and metabolism into sterols (16). Lastly, fermentation&#xA;temperature also plays an important role. A four-fold increase in ester production may be observed as a&#xA;result of increasing the fermentation temperature from 60 to 68 °F, 16-20 °C (1).&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T17:54:49.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11419" CreationDate="2014-01-18T17:56:29.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there is no standard.  There is a range, but the gap that works for you depends on your lautering system and the way you brew.  Knowing what gap someone else uses is no assurance that gap will work for you.  Make the mill adjustable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T17:56:29.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11073" CreationDate="2014-01-18T20:25:38.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do winter ferments in a big plastic tub (called a &quot;muck bucket&quot;) full of water.  I put the fermenter in that and put a 65W aquarium heater in the water.  If it's really cold, the heater runs 24/7.  when it's not so cold, I out it on a timer to come on at the coldest parts of the day.  With ambient temps in single digits, I can keep steady temps between 50-55F for lagers or 62-65F for ales.  Reliable and inexpensive.  Also, when the weather is warmer, I can take out the heater and put ice packs in the water for cooling.  FWIW, you do not need 1-2F accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T20:25:38.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11427" CreationDate="2014-01-19T01:39:46.913" Score="2" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was pulling wort out of a carboy to take a hydrometer reading, the bottom part of the baster separated from the head and fell into the carboy. What's the best way to get it out with the fewest question marks for contaminating (&quot;infecting&quot;) the wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some mason line that I could use to fish it out, but I'm worried that, no matter how long I soak the mason line in sanitizer, it won't completely sanitize. Am I needlessly worried? Help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3448" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T08:28:25.893" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T08:28:25.893" Title="How do I get a turkey baster out of a carboy?" Tags="|contamination|carboy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11425" CreationDate="2014-01-19T02:16:42.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how wide the small end of the baster is, I'd consider using a wire coat-hanger, with a very slight hook on the end.  Sterilize it by curling it up, and boiling it in a sauce pan full of water for a couple of minutes, using a star-san soaked rag to grab hold and straighten it to fish around for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, perhaps just leave it until you syphon off the beer?  If it had contaminants on it, they've already been introduced to the solution, no need to risk adding more unless you really need that baster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T02:16:42.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11425" CreationDate="2014-01-19T04:05:34.853" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to get the turkey baster out with the least consequences on your wort is to wait until the beer is finished fermenting, and then just dump it out &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the beer has been racked away. Whatever contamination was going to happen has already happened (hopefully you sanitized the turkey baster). Trying to fish out the turkey baster is going to be challenging, and likely to introduce oxygen or unwanted bugs to the carboy. This will require quite a bit of patience, or RDWHAHB zen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My kid dropped a thermometer in an open bucket full of wort (pre-aeration), so I figured I was safe to fish it out with a couple sanitized spoons. But it was impossible to get it out. I eventually had to fish it out manually, wearing a long and sanitized rubber glove. It's not as easy as you would expect to fish a long, thin thing out of a turbid liquid. I can't imagine trying to do it through the neck of a carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T04:05:34.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11419" CreationDate="2014-01-19T04:16:35.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Better barley roller mills have an adjustable gap because different lautering systems have different requirements, as mentioned by @Denny, but there is no standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/1130-mashing-variables-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article says that a mill gap between 0.035 and 0.050 inches (0.89 and 1.3 mm) is thought to be a good, all-purpose setting for barley malt&lt;/a&gt;. That article also has some other info that may be useful to you. However, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.barleycrusher.com/barleycrusher.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Barley Crusher&lt;/a&gt; is one commercial model that is very popular with home brewers, and it has an adjustable gap that is adjustable between 0.015 to 0.070 inches. Its factory setting is 0.039 inches. A finer crush is especially useful for the BIAB and batch-sparge methods of mashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a spark plug gap tool from the auto store to measure the gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T04:16:35.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11436" CreationDate="2014-01-19T04:51:06.623" Score="0" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ferment all my beers single stage in a glass carboy immersed in a water bath to maintain temperature. This is the first time I've made a bigger beer (this one started at 1.080) on this system. I made a nice big starter and aerated twice. It took off well and visible signs of yeast activity are essentially gone after a week; everything looks great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically I would allow another 1-2 weeks for the yeast to clean up before bottling. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;My question is: with a bigger beer, and without the option of transferring to another vessel for conditioning (other than a bottle), should I give the beer more extra time on the yeast, or less?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess that additional time would allow the yeast to clean up the larger amount of by-products it likely produced during the adaptation and attenuative phases, but the environment inside the fermentor is also more hostile, so perhaps off flavours from old and dying yeast, which I normally am not concerned with, and have not noticed in my beers, are worth worrying about now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6315" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T18:00:38.270" Title="Longer time on yeast for a bigger beer?" Tags="|yeast|bottle-conditioning|conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11435" CreationDate="2014-01-19T04:51:52.490" Score="3" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about dry hopping my current batch. It's still fermenting and bubbling, and the krausen hasn't dissipated yet. Should I wait for fermentation to stop? Should I wait for the krausen to fall out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T18:11:02.453" Title="fermentation and dry hopping" Tags="|dry-hop|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11430" CreationDate="2014-01-19T15:26:19.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should wait until primary fermentation is finished before dry-hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T15:26:19.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11673" CreationDate="2014-01-19T16:08:23.033" Score="5" ViewCount="3359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've prepared a 1qt (~1L) yeast starter according to instructions from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_makingastarter.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wyeast.com&lt;/a&gt;. I didn't measure its gravity, but in theory it should be about 1.040.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am brewing a 5 gallon batch of high gravity stout @ 1.076 target original gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, after pitching the starter, the total volume in the fermenter will be 5.25 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;em&gt;How do I calculate a more accurate gravity reading from the blended starter and wort?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6318" LastActivityDate="2022-04-18T16:06:39.983" Title="How does a yeast starter affect original gravity reading?" Tags="|yeast-starters|original-gravity|recipe-formulation|calculations|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11432" CreationDate="2014-01-19T16:21:57.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the starter fully fermented, most of the 1.040 should be gone; normal yeast attenuation is around 75%, so you should have 1L of 1.010 beer in the starter vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1L of 1.010 beer into 19L of 1.076 OG wort would reduce the OG down to about 1.073.  (76 points * 19L + 10 points * 1L) / 20L = 72.7 points = 1.073.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though if possible, you should try to cold-crash the yeast, decant off most of the starter liquid, only retaining enough liquid to swirl the yeast back up into a slurry, and pitch that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T16:21:57.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11432" CreationDate="2014-01-19T17:03:33.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to determine the effect of starter gravity is to decant the starter so the amount is negligible.  In addition, I've found that it makes better beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T17:03:33.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11430" CreationDate="2014-01-19T17:05:29.630" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should wait.  The escaping CO2 will carry off the hop aroma you're trying to get through dry hopping.  It's best to remove the beer from the yeast completely before dry hopping.  There is an interaction between yeast and hops that can cause the hops to produce a very floral, rose-like ester which can be disagreeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T17:05:29.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11429" CreationDate="2014-01-19T17:07:41.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may or may not need extra time, but my experience is that it never hurts to give the beer more time.  4-5 weeks will be fine.  The best thing to do would be to start taking gravity readings after 3-4 weeks and taste the sample.  Between the gravity and the taste, you should be able to tell when it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T17:07:41.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11438" CreationDate="2014-01-19T17:38:43.670" Score="1" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making a British Barley wine and the &lt;strong&gt;dry&lt;/strong&gt; yeast instruction called for sprinkling the  yeast on top of the starter. I was a bit over excited and stirred at some point after it reached room temp but before its expected use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem or am I being a worry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3467" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T17:55:40.040" Title="I stirred the yeast and it said do not" Tags="|yeast|barleywine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11437" CreationDate="2014-01-19T17:55:40.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a problem.  I've done that before and it had no negative effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T17:55:40.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11429" CreationDate="2014-01-19T18:00:38.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shortest time I've ever given a beer from grain to glass (including 2 days of forced carbonation) was 19 days, and it was a 1.087 Imperial IPA.  That said, I do recall it tasting better after a week in the keg, and the malt bill was a 50/50 split of American and English 2-row, so nothing fancy aside from the tremendous amount of hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the hops (or lack thereof) drive the schedule.  If it is a hop monster, I like to enjoy them very fresh.  If they are malt or yeast forward in flavor (e.g. Pilsner, German Wheat styles, etc), they could possibly stand to last a bit longer in the fermenter.  Case in point, I have a very high gravity (1.100 OG) smoked bourbon barrel pepper porter that I am going to age for far longer than I ever would with the aforementioned IPA, as most of the hop flavor would die off by the time this makes it to the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After your normal amount of time in the carboy, draw a sample and taste it.  If it doesn't taste quite as good as you'd like it, give it another week, and another until you either like it, or grow too impatient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T18:00:38.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10077" CreationDate="2014-01-19T22:07:10.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes it can be done. All you need to do is hook up the gas and beer out, which is pretty simple. For the gas you'll just need to hook it up to your regulator directly or to a CO2 manifold. For the beer out something as simple as a cobra head and a short length of tubing works. Obviously, you can go fancier and hook it up to a tower or something similar if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 4 tap system at home, but a 5 line out manifold for CO2. The first 4 are used for the 4 taps. On the 5th I put in sankey coupler, similar to what is pictured. I've used this to pump beer from commercial kegs into the home brew corny kegs (5 gallon soda kegs). This allows me to serve commercial beer without having to take all the corny kegs out of kegerator to make room for the large commercial keg. The biggest downside is that this is a bit of a pain to do. Additionally, a commercial keg is 15.5 gallons which means you have a bit more than 3 corny kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T22:07:10.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11443" CreationDate="2014-01-20T04:18:49.077" Score="5" ViewCount="1605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at brewing several recipes that call for a multi-step mash that includes a protein rest. I saw a &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/item/1145-methodical-mashing--lagering-mr-wizard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr Wizard article in BYO that sort of defends protein rests&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like the questioner in that article, I thought that protein rests were unnecessary for well-modified malts, but Mr Wizard says that brewers still consider a protein rest necessary where there is 20% of more wheat in the grain bill (for clarity purposes, I guess), or to ease separate of wort in the lauter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't make sense to me, because it seems that any proteolytic enzymes in the malted wheat (and other malts) would have been destroyed by the malting process, meaning that no protein is being affected by the protein rest. Is it correct that there are no or negligible amounts of proteolytic enzymes in modern malted grains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as far as separating wort, wouldn't a mash-out step or high-temp sparge do the same, if you bring the mash up to 170°F?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-01-20T20:48:12.167" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T07:34:17.870" Title="Does a protein rest even do anything?" Tags="|mash|all-grain|grain|protien-rest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11417" CreationDate="2014-01-20T10:29:35.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you adding it to the must to sterilise it, or are you simply adding it to the water to remove chlorine before adding the water to the other ingredients?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the former, yes, you should leave it 24 hours before adding the yeast. By that time the sulphur dioxide will have evaporated and should be of no detriment to the yeast. I usually add the Campden when the must is hot, then after 12 hours add pectic enzyme, then after 12 more hours add the yeast (which I usually start in a starter solution at the same time as I add the Campden). This allows a gap between Campden and yeast for the sulphur dioxide to evaporate, a gap between boiling and adding pectic enzyme for the must to cool, and a gap between pectic enzyme and yeast so the enzyme can extract some of the flavour and colour before the yeast gets going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have less experience with the latter, but I understand that you use a lot less Campden per water. Also when you pour it into different containers that will aggravate it and some of the gas will be lost. So for both these reasons I would estimate that you would need less time before it is safe to add the yeast than you would if using the Campden to sterilise. However, if you are using the Campden only to remove chlorine, are you doing something else to sterilise the rest of the must? You mentioned in a comment on the other answer that you are not boiling the must. Be sure to remove the natural/airborne bacteria and yeasts before you add your yeast, because you have after all created a perfect environment for bacteria and yeast to grow in :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6323" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T10:29:35.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11441" CreationDate="2014-01-20T16:33:23.857" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, keep in mind that Mr. wizard is a commercial brewer and his answers come from that point of view.  It may not be applicable to homebrewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using wheat may be about the only case where using a protein rest &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be of benefit.  But it'a not a given.  There are still proteolytic enzymes left in the malt.  Due to the high protein content of wheat, it can possibly lead t stuck runoffs and a p rest may help that.  Notice that there's a lot of &quot;maybe&quot; in my statements.  That's because it's not a cut and dried situation.  Here's an excerpt from my upcoming book &quot;Experimental Brewing&quot; that may help explain it....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that wheat doesn’t have significantly higher protein levels compared to barley, but due to solubility factors, it leeches more protein into the wort. Here’s the funny part about our traditional wisdom – according to a recent study from Leuven, Belgium – wheat provides some better foam stability characteristics, but only for brews with highly modified malts and only in the higher gravity versions and only when gassed with Nitrogen instead of CO2. Even better – we know that Wheat is supposed to induced hazy cloudy beers, right? The effect of wheat protein haze is more pronounced at lower overall levels of wheat in the mash – i.e. a beer brewed with 20% wheat will be hazier than a beer brewed with 40% wheat. According to the researchers this is believed to be due to the more aggressive breakdown of the large protein strands in the 20% wheat beer. This leads to smaller particles that are less likely to settle out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T16:33:23.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11417" CreationDate="2014-01-20T18:42:20.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using 1/4 campden tablet per 5 gallons, you should be fine. If you are using 1 tablet per gallon, then you need to wait 24 hours. I typically use 1 tablet for ~10 gallons prior to mashing and do not wait at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter4-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter4-1.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T18:42:20.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11441" CreationDate="2014-01-20T21:00:15.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;During malting, the maltster uses the kiln to dry out the malts. Pilsner, wheat and other light malts are heated to 45&amp;deg;C with a lot of ventilation. This dries out the malt considerably. Once the moisture content has been sufficiently reduced, the temperature can be increased to higher temperatures - the &lt;strong&gt;low moisture content protects the enzymes&lt;/strong&gt; to some degree, although for more strongly kilned malts, the enzymes still denature due to the high temperatures and longer time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the enzymes are still present, and a protein rest is still useful for altering the profile of different length proteins in the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;see&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewery.org/library/Malt_AK0996.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Malt production&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-01-21T07:34:17.870" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T07:34:17.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="952" CreationDate="2014-01-20T23:52:09.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What style beers are they?  Lost Abbey and The Bruery (both great breweries) have a lot of quads and unique styles that aren't going to be as carbonated as a pilsner or IPA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't shake it up right before drinking. Let the bottles sit right before opening then gently pour so you don't get all the yeast into your glass.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T08:19:53.743" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T08:19:53.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11149" CreationDate="2014-01-21T00:37:50.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this beer many times (I live in Nor Cal) and you picked a hell of a beer to clone.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the vanilla I recommend American Oak.  American Oak has larger pores than French oak and it will transmit the flavors more quickly.  Light or Medium toast will work.  Take the oak cubes or chips and soak them in your favorite Bourbon for a week.  Then put the whole thing into your carboy in secondary.  That is where the vanilla will come from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as Oats, flaked oats can go in with the rest of your grains.  raw oats need to boil for an hour to gelatinize.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T00:37:50.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11430" CreationDate="2014-01-21T00:42:40.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told by brewers from Sierra Nevada they like to dry hop their home brews just as fermentation is completing.  Most of the krausen will dissipate but not all.  By doing this the yeast can munch away at whatever oxygen is in your secondary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2014-07-26T18:11:02.453" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T18:11:02.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11425" CreationDate="2014-01-21T01:00:06.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By this time you will probably need to let it sit in there.  If it's floating near the top, I've gotten things out of carboys with chop sticks before.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T01:00:06.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3858" CreationDate="2014-01-21T06:33:52.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option is to get a sterilization filter and filter out the yeast once you reach the desired sweetness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6327" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T06:33:52.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11453" CreationDate="2014-01-21T10:37:48.577" Score="0" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;After drinking an equivalent amount of Champagne and regular wine - I feel significantly more light-headed after drinking the Champagne. The only difference appears to be the carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the property of the carbonation of champagne that makes you feel light-headed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2976" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T13:13:20.457" Title="What is the property of the carbonation of champagne that makes you feel light-headed?" Tags="|carbonation|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11452" CreationDate="2014-01-21T13:13:20.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been proven here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newscientist.com/article/dn1717-champagne-does-get-you-drunk-faster.html#.Ut5xKmRFD-k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt; but the reason is still unclear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;It must be absorbed from the digestive system quicker,&quot; says Ridout. Normally, we absorb 20 per cent of any alcohol we drink in the stomach and the remainder in the intestines. One theory is that carbon dioxide in the bubbles somehow speeds the flow of alcohol into the intestines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T13:13:20.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11468" CreationDate="2014-01-21T14:03:40.583" Score="4" ViewCount="6878" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do yeast multiply in the initial aerobic phase or do they continue to multiply all the way through the entire anaerobic phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T00:51:02.557" Title="When do Yeast grow and multiply?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11456" CreationDate="2014-01-21T15:00:57.807" Score="1" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to brew with some friends in my country house but temperature this time of year there is not ideal to leave the fermentor there so i will have to transport it for about 100 km.I am not sure how to transport the wort after we finish. Should i chill ,transfer to bucket and pitch or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6241" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T16:17:06.483" Title="Transporting unfermented wort" Tags="|wort|transport|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11455" CreationDate="2014-01-21T15:24:44.323" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get the wort into the fermenter with the yeast and then carefully transport it.  Then you don't have to worry about the wort getting contaminated as much due to the airlock on the fermenter.  The head space should be able to handle the sloshing from moving it (I am assuming that this is in a car).  I would just make sure that it isn't going to go sliding around during the transport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3419" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T15:24:44.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11459" CreationDate="2014-01-21T15:28:47.240" Score="1" ViewCount="2022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a beer with 70% pilsner malt, 28% light munich malt, and 2% chocolate malt.  I used RO water, a 1 hour rest at 156 deg, and fly sparged.  I had no means to check PH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beersmith calculated the color at sub 9 SRM, but the inital wort seems darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did I do wrong?  or is it too soon to tell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6300" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T18:38:45.993" Title="Why is my wort dark?" Tags="|wort|color|pilsner|beersmith|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11457" CreationDate="2014-01-21T16:18:30.957" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too soon.  Don't sweat it.  I bet it will lighten up as it ferments and yeast and trub drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T16:18:30.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11461" CreationDate="2014-01-21T17:51:57.723" Score="0" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the correct way to finish using steeping grains.  The recipe I was following called for rinsing the grains with a few quarts of water.  I had them all in two cloth sacks and poured the water over them above the simmering wort.  Should I be squeezing out the sacks? Or just let them drip until they stop dripping?  My beer didn't turn out as dark as expected, so I've been thinking I probably should have squeezed them out a bit more.  Do you use gloves for this type of thing since its so hot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6220" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T12:52:26.653" Title="Draining Steeping Grains" Tags="|steeping|specialty-grains|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11460" CreationDate="2014-01-21T18:08:41.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can go both ways on this. You can let it slowly drip out, or you can squeeze (definitely with gloves) as long as a few extra precautions are taken.  I would recommend setting a sieve/fine-mesh strainer over your boil kettle to catch any protein matter that comes out of the bag when you squeeze, and be aware that if the pH of your water while doing the mini-mash was too high, you'll wind up squeezing out all the resulting tannin off-flavors from the grains as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is doubtful that the color has to do with squeezing versus not squeezing, although squeezing may have helped.  Some factors that play into the color are grain and water quantities (assuming you used the correct amount of grain and water) and the length of the steeping.  While the sugar extraction happens very quickly in a mash, the color takes time to develop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T18:08:41.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11463" CreationDate="2014-01-21T20:44:27.607" Score="0" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bottled about 15-20 batches, but I am ready to keg for the first time. I see the table that has been rep[roduced on quite a few websites, and it has 3 examples with a range for the Volumes of CO2 desired. British, Most others, High Carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming my blonde ale falls into the &quot;Most other beers&quot; category, but I dont know what value I want. Should I just set my CO2 at the mid range and hope for the best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T21:00:34.527" Title="How do I know what value I want for Volumes of CO2" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|co2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11462" CreationDate="2014-01-21T21:00:34.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a rather simplified set of guidelines for carbonation levels. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=105075&amp;amp;view=findpost&amp;amp;p=1295993&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Different styles have different historical ranges of volumes of CO₂&lt;/a&gt;. I'd start there (or from a similar source), and then use the PSI/temp/volumes table to find the right values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T21:00:34.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11465" CreationDate="2014-01-21T21:31:25.780" Score="1" ViewCount="4273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my first home written beer recipe in the end of last year, now I want to improve the beer.&#xA;It was a simple single hops pale ale recipe, brewed in a 5L container, so it was a very small batch that I cooked for 60 min. Fermented for 3 weeks, and bottled for about 4 weeks before I opened the first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;5L water&#xA;40g Waimea Hops (17% alpha acid)&#xA;1 kg Pale ale malt&#xA;150 g caramel malt (caraamber 60-80)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hops was added like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;10g added 60 min prior to the end of the cook&#xA;10g added 15 min prior to the end of the cook&#xA;20g added 0 min prior to the end of the cook&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During lautering, I added a small amount off water at 76 degree celsius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added some sugar before bottling to get carbon dioxide in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer turned out fine, it had a nice bitternes, could probably add some more hops at the beginning. But the body was not great, in my taste it was a bit &quot;watery&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A beer brewing friend of mine told me that I could add some malt extract to get a richer body. Is there anything else I could do to achieve that? &#xA;What steps during the brewing process affect the body? Would I get a richer body if I didn't add any extra water during lautering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6331" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T23:49:06.737" Title="How to get a richer body when brewing" Tags="|beer|brewing|ale|body|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11464" CreationDate="2014-01-22T00:58:15.180" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you produce the same volume of beer with more malt, this will increase both alcohol and residual sweetness. It's the residual sweetness that will give it a heavier body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple other things you could try that won't affect the alcohol content as much:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mash at a higher temperature. Keeping the mash temperature close to 156 F. will lead the creation of more unfermentable sugars, which will remain in the beer and provide body.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use more crystal malt. Your recipe has 13% crystal malt, which pretty typical for a pale ale. You could increase that to 18% or 20%, which will provide more body as crystal malts contain more unfermentable sugars that base malt. Dextrine malt (AKA Carafoam, Carapils) will add the unfermentables without changing the colour or flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T00:58:15.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11491" CreationDate="2014-01-22T03:01:17.270" Score="2" ViewCount="1348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Raspberry Pi with water proof temperature sensors fed in through the airlock to measure the temperature of the wort. They are in contact with the wort from pitch and up to bottling, 4-6 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The website that I buy them from now lists what they are made out of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones I use are PVC (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adafruit.com/products/381&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;). They also have another, more expensive, option for PTFE (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adafruit.com/products/642&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;). The links don't specify whether they are food safe, alcohol resistant, or acid resistant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read conflicting information on whether or not these plastics are A) food safe, B) acid safe, and c) alcohol tolerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are my PVC temperature probes fine, should I upgrade to PTFE, or hope that I have not permanently damaged myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T05:27:54.970" LastActivityDate="2021-09-22T18:50:21.710" Title="PVC and PTFE Plastic for Long Term Wort Contact" Tags="|plastic|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11464" CreationDate="2014-01-22T07:10:58.017" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Tobias on more unfermentable sugars (high mash temp) and dextrine malts (carapils).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm adding a separate answer because I've had good luck adding maltodextrin. Carapils, which is supposed to do the same thing, has given me somewhat inconsistent results - that is sometimes I notice it and sometimes I don't. People tend to use maltodextrin more with extract recipes versus all-grain, I guess because carapils is less processed, and simpler since carapils can be added right to the mash, but I have found more consistent results from maltodextrin than carapils.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maltodextrin can be used just for the purpose of adding body without extra sweetness, flavor or color (crystal malts add color and flavor). For a 5 gal batch, boil 8oz for 10-15 min. I've had good experience with it adding body to IPAs, even when mashing low (148-152), when including maltodextrin or carapils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try adding some flaked oats or flaked barley (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;0.5 lb to 1.5 lb&lt;/a&gt;) to the mash in any recipe to add body without too much change in flavor or color. Toasting the oats, as is common in oatmeal stouts, will accentuate their flavor, so I would not toast if you don't want oat flavor. Without toasting, they don't add a lot of flavor in my opinion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flaked wheat can also add some nice smoothness and body but it can make your beer cloudy. However, with a clean ale yeast (like California/Chico/American Ale), you can brew a full-bodied wheaty pale ale or IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not add more extract in order to get body, since extract is highly fermentable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T23:49:06.737" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T23:49:06.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11454" CreationDate="2014-01-22T08:17:43.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the aerobic phase there is a presence of oxygen in the brew, during this phase there is a rapid increase in yeast and an almost exponential growth of yeast. During the anaerobic phase there is an absence oxygen, this causes the yeast growth to slow down and almost come to a halt. This since yeast does not grow well 'anaerobically' but needs the presence of oxygen to grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T08:17:43.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11477" CreationDate="2014-01-22T13:08:26.583" Score="1" ViewCount="705" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about buying some a HUGE Blue food grade steel drums, which is either painted or enameled.&lt;p&gt;If I correctly modify them, will these be okay for FV, Mashing Tubs, Boil Kettle, Strike Boiler? &lt;p&gt;My concern is they are 205 liters / 45 Gallons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T13:28:49.500" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T18:32:15.800" Title="Food Grade Steel Drums" Tags="|equipment|boil-kettle|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11472" CreationDate="2014-01-22T13:11:32.797" Score="1" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a plastic fermentation bin be modified with a heater element to make a strike-water heater or a boil-kettle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T17:25:53.070" Title="Boil kettle from plastic fermentation bin" Tags="|equipment|boil-kettle|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11346" CreationDate="2014-01-22T16:06:28.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes Kiwi Bruce what you said just confirmed my fears that it was the temperature. I have my carboy in the warmest area of my house, but living in colorado its not easy keeping the house warm especially at night. So if the yeast go dormant an slow down is it possible to revive them with warmer temperature. The yeast I used is Wyeast American Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6276" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T16:06:28.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11470" CreationDate="2014-01-22T16:18:45.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it has been done many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T16:18:45.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11469" CreationDate="2014-01-22T16:20:28.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not count on those being food grade.  I recommend you look into 55 gal. SS barrels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T16:20:28.077" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11460" CreationDate="2014-01-22T18:23:16.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use bags too. I have my rinse water ready to go and use the multi dip method of rinsing, like if you are dipping tea bags in a mug. Then, I use a stainless spatchula and a steamer tray from my rinse pot that sorta looks like a shallow collander (stainless), that came with my pot used for rinsing. I put the bag in the steamer and press with the spatchula to drain as much liquid as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T18:23:16.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11479" CreationDate="2014-01-22T18:30:55.390" Score="3" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I attach a removable mesh filter to hold back the grains and I properly insulate the entire bottling bin, can I dual wield it as a bottler and as a mashing tun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What benefits are there to having two separate items instead of combined one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T22:55:47.077" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T01:06:10.533" Title="Turn Bottling Bin into a Mash Tun?" Tags="|equipment|bottling|mash-tun|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11469" CreationDate="2014-01-22T18:32:15.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be concerned about their durability. They are likely not stainless steel under the finish so any exposed metal will rust. If you are planning on drilling holes for spigots, sight glasses, etc., that will definitely be a problem. Also, mash tuns and boils kettles take a beating with exposure to somewhat acidic wort and  harsh cleaners. I assume you are planning a clean-in-place system with kettles that size? How well with the blue paint/enamel stand up to that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stainless steel is definitely more expensive, but it will last forever if used and cleaned properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T18:32:15.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11476" CreationDate="2014-01-22T18:44:05.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you could do this. Just be sure that the tubing in use can be used at temperatures up to 170F. I actually did this for a time when I was doing two batches simultaneously and only had a single tun. I used the silver &quot;bubble wrap&quot; insulation I got at a home improvement store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages of having separate ones? Insulation is of prime importance to a mash tun, and sanitation is of prime importance to a bottling bucket. When I was mashing in plastic, it tended to get scratched up after a time, and that is more difficult to sanitize. The home-made insulator was a bit messy and made cleaning harder. Eventually, I bought a second round cooler to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T18:44:05.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11476" CreationDate="2014-01-22T19:03:07.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory you can do it, but there are drawbacks.  The thing I'd worry about most is getting it clean and sanitary enough after using it as a mash tun.  Grain is a notorious carrier of lactobacillus, so you'd need to be absolutely certain that you had cleaned and sanitized it well enough.  If there is a spigot on it, that would be the really hard part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T01:06:10.533" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T01:06:10.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-23T10:24:49.013" Score="2" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about 6 batches into my AG brewing and my fridge is slowly getting filled with jars of yeast I've been harvesting, each labelled so I can tell which batch they came from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've been harvesting yeast only from the primary fermenter but I'm thinking about harvesting from secondary too because, at the moment, I don't want to force natural selection on my yeast population, but this will increase my yeast volume even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory all of the yeast I've collected is of the same strain barring a few inevitable genetic mutations, so my question is this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I wise to keep all my yeast harvests separate, should I mix my primary and secondary harvests from the same batch, or can I mix all of my harvests together into one big, amorphous, yeasty jar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T13:43:48.050" Title="How does a beginner manage their yeast farm?" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|yeast-cultures|harvest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11483" CreationDate="2014-01-23T12:26:30.897" Score="3" ViewCount="9311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought this stuff (pictured) - what appears to be Irish moss in its natural, dried state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a bit of a noob I haven't used Irish moss before, thinking (perhaps foolishly) that my beers could be clear with it. Nope... at least, not so far. So, I bought this particular product for a couple of reasons...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For various personal reasons I like to keep my beers as &quot;natural&quot; as possible - I'd rather not start adding pig bones, fish bits, or lab-produced carrageenan. Call me weird, but I'd rather avoid anything that comes in those little white snap-top pots with unclear labelling. So, if I'm going to start using some kind of clearing agent I'd rather be using something that is as natural as possible... hence this choice of product over normal pre-prepared Irish moss.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This product cost only £10 for 250g, which is at least 50% cheaper than buying it in pots.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, simply and noobishly, how best do I use this? Perhaps more specifically...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generically, how much do I use? Currently I'm doing 5 gallon batches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I put it in the last 15 minutes of the boil?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I put it in as it is, or do I grind it to a powder to increase its surface area contact?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to rehydrate it first?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything else I should know?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ta very  much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ch1X3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Irish Moss&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T16:10:53.547" Title="How to use &quot;natural&quot; Irish moss" Tags="|irish-moss|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11480" CreationDate="2014-01-23T13:43:48.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume they're all different re-pitches of the same original strain?  Certainly you would want to keep different strains apart so you can pitch based on their desired properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even still, I would keep the harvested yeast  separate, if only so you can use them in a FIFO order of collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method you're using the harvest yeast has a reliable shelf life of approximately 2 weeks, and a maximum shelf life of 6 months, according to Zainasheff and White in &lt;em&gt;Yeast&lt;/em&gt;. As such, I would endeavour to use the harvested yeast ASAP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would only suggest harvesting from the primary fermenter, and employ the &quot;yeast rinsing&quot; technique to separate the yeast from the other trub.  Yeast harvested from secondary are going to be composed exclusively of &quot;late flocculators&quot; that will skew your yeast population.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T13:43:48.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11481" CreationDate="2014-01-23T14:25:44.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The flakes look a little large (this may or may not be a matter of perspective), but past that, I'd say it's perfectly fine to use.  Add one teaspoon per 5-gallon batch at the last 15 minutes.  Before adding it, I would suggest crushing it down just a bit further, either via a rolling pin, chopping, or using a coffee grinder (specifically re-purposed for stuff other than grinding coffee beans).  You don't need to grind it down to a powder, but it should be in smaller flakes to allow for the widest dispersion among your boil and ensure the most amount of surface area to get in contact with the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you're going for clarity without any bizarre additives, and you can force carbonate your beer, you may want to look into filtering your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T16:01:44.617" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T16:01:44.617" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11481" CreationDate="2014-01-23T16:10:53.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you brew extract, use 1/4 tsp. 15 min. before the end of the boil.  If you brew all grain, use 1 tsp. for 15 min.  Rehydration is not essential, but it will make it a bit more effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T16:10:53.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-23T19:37:15.147" Score="3" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is probably a quirky question for this forum, but here goes. I'm getting into home brewing, and today I stumbled a cross the website for American Society for Brewing Chemists (ASBC) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asbcnet.org/checksample/beer_analysis.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.asbcnet.org/checksample/beer_analysis.htm&lt;/a&gt;. The page I just linked to is for the beer analysis service offered by ASBC. For the analysis, they test 32 different properties of the beer. Does anyone know if there is a known way to quantify or approximate the taste of a beer just with these 32 properties? Again, sorry if this is out of place for this forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user6340" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T01:16:32.113" Title="Chemical characteristics of taste" Tags="|flavor|taste|chemistry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-23T20:55:23.323" Score="1" ViewCount="1522" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fairly new to beer making (5 batches) and have good success, but am trying to fine tune my process.  I have an IPA which fermented well and cleared nicely in the primary with gelatin and a cool cellar.  I am an experienced wine maker and used my vacuum system to transfer the beer to the secondary.  The transfer went well, but at the end I sucked up a little trub at the bottom, just enough to cloud the beer a bit. The recipe recommends a three week secondary with dry hopping the last week. I really like a clear beer, will it clear in the secondary over three weeks or settle in the bottle during conditioning? Thanks...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T03:33:32.477" Title="Will secondary further clear my IPA?" Tags="|secondary|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11486" CreationDate="2014-01-23T21:39:28.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The beer will clear with a secondary. The trub will precipitate within a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that the best route to clear beer is to get a strong boil, strong hot break, and strong cool break. This will create larger protein strands that will coagulate and precipitate in the brew kettle. If you plan to use gelatin in the future I would suggest adding it to the secondary because you can reuse the yeast in the primary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have temp control, crashing the beer to ~33-35 degrees overnight after primary fermentation work wonders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2230" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T21:39:28.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11454" CreationDate="2014-01-24T00:51:02.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be interested to look up Krebs cycle and the electron transport chain which yeast follow when in its aerobic respiration phase. This is when the yeast can create a ton of energy and that surplus of energy is used to replicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the oxygen runs out, it goes into anaerobic processes where the yeast produce CO2, ethanol, and sometimes lactate depending on the yeast or bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T00:51:02.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11485" CreationDate="2014-01-24T01:16:32.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot chemical compounds that contribute to the overall taste/aroma/etc of a beer let alone the proportions of each said compounds. Unless those 32 tests are incredibly comprehensive, I am guessing it could probably at only guess at beer category. The yeast make up around 600 chemical compounds alone. Most of those compounds are barely perceivable by taste/aroma so if any of the proportions move around, the flavors could drastically change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T01:16:32.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11486" CreationDate="2014-01-24T06:15:10.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get clear beer without secondary, including IPAs with dry-hopping. Secondary can improve your beer clarity, but it doesn't necessarily improve clarity. Some people say that the hops can interact with the yeast in the primary and produce unpleasant flavors, although I've never experienced this. You will find tons and tons of threads telling you to dry hop in secondary. You definitely don't have to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opinion is that if you're new to brewing, don't bother with secondary unless you're doing secondary fermentation, i.e. adding fruit or souring. Dry hopping is not secondary fermentation. Fermentation should be complete by the time you dry hop. The reasons for forgoing secondary are documented elsewhere and mainly come from John Palmer, Jamil Zainasheff and Chris White (White Labs), who advocate not moving to secondary unless you are doing secondary fermentation (fruit, souring). See this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/88/if-when-to-move-to-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;If/When to move to secondary fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of having a complete answer, the reason to skip secondary is that it will expose your beer to oxygen unless you're taking extra steps that complicate things and add more work and equipment - like flushing the secondary fermenter with CO2  first or transferring in a closed system and pushing the beer out with CO2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try other things to clear you beer - cold crashing as @LastBoltonBrewery is a great way to do it if you have a fridge/freezer. It works well. Kegging and letting it sit in the fridge also does wonders. The first few pours will be a little cloudy, but after that the sediment is poured off and the beer gets nice and clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finings or clearing agents are another option; vegan = clarity ferm, biofine; animal = gelatin or isinglass. I understand people's desire to have crystal clear beer, but personally I'd rather have an IPA that's a little cloudy than add that stuff...it's homebrew :) With good ingredients and processes it will taste and smell great. For a long time Green Flash West Coast IPA was cloudy - I think it was better back then, before they started adding isinglass and filtering it to get it clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T03:33:32.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11466" CreationDate="2014-01-24T08:50:23.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although it doesn't say they are food safe, those plastics are relatively safe at room temperature. Beer lines are made from PVC and PTFE is used a lot in kitchenware. Of course, we don't know exactly how they have been processed/handled, this is still guesswork. No-one here can tell you if they are food safe/acid-safe etc.. just by looking at them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to immersing the sensors directly in the wort is to use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewershardware.com/Straight-Wall-Thermowells/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thermowell&lt;/a&gt; - this will also obviate having to have the sensors wired through the airlock. In various forums, I hear of a number of people putting these sensors directly in the wort. While the manufacturer claims them to be waterproof, some brewers have reported they fail after a few months. I recommend people use a thermowell for long term stability. Also, a smooth stainless steel thermowell is much easier to clean and sanitize than a temp sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Incidentally, the prices for those waterproof sensors are expensive - you can pick them up on ebay for $1 each.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T08:50:23.003" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11466" CreationDate="2014-01-24T08:55:26.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;WOW! good detailed question! I have no actual experience with this specifically but I can sympathise with the chemical/material compatibility question. I have most always had success with searching the great world wide web, with &quot;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;*&lt;/em&gt;**&lt;/strong&gt; vs. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;*&lt;/em&gt;***&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;, in your case &quot;PVC vs. alcohol&quot; (by the way a search for Polyvinyl Chloride worked better than &quot;PVC&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the link here I see PVC is compatible with substances of PH levels way outside beer and wine production, so I think you will be ok there, and without reading the whole thing, I am assuming allyl alcohol (on the first page) is way more potent than anything we are creating, so I'm assuming you are good there too! As long as you are within reasonable temps I would say you are just fine&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.spilltech.com/wcsstore/SpillTechUSCatalogAssetStore/Attachment/documents/ccg/CBOOM.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.spilltech.com/wcsstore/SpillTechUSCatalogAssetStore/Attachment/documents/ccg/CBOOM.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GOOD LUCK MAN sounds like you got something cool going on, and wish ya the best... keep us posted!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T08:55:26.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-24T12:57:12.023" Score="4" ViewCount="4952" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm creating a yeast starter from previously harvested yeast I'm supposed to know how many cells are in my slurry to effectively calculate how much yeast to use in my next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me common sense suggests that a fully-settled layer in the refrigerator will be pretty consistent in the number of yeast cell per unit volume - some may not be viable, yes, but a consistent density non-the-less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as far as I understand it, and according to Wyeast (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/com-yeast-harvest.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wyeastlab.com/com-yeast-harvest.cfm&lt;/a&gt;) a yeast slurry is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the fully-settled layer but the yeast in suspension prior to it settling out (settling out is simply a mechanism to allow the brewer to gauge how much yeast is in a slurry). Therefore, isn't this purely down to how much water I've added whilst harvesting? How do I know how dense the yeast population is in a watery slurry like that? Isn't it best to work from the settled layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By my reckoning, and reading the Wyeast page, there are approximately 2 billion yeast cells per millilitre of fully-settled yeast cake. Is this not a more sensible way to gauge your slurry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T15:29:53.830" Title="Define &quot;yeast slurry&quot;" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11493" CreationDate="2014-01-24T13:41:13.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not so sure I'd agree that full-settled yeast is going to have a consistent density. Certainly there's an order of magnitude size difference between Sacc. and Brett. cells, but even different flocculation rates/behavior between various Sacc. strains might affect settled yeast density. I really don't know, but it's not &quot;common-sense&quot;-obvious, to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slurry is the yeast in some liquid suspension to provide it fluidity; a fully settled yeast cake does not really want to move from the jar to the carboy. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wyeast's method of taking a sample of the slurry, letting it settle, and using the percentage volume and 2bn/mL estimate is a reasonable one. Even better, of course, is to count the cells of a serially-diluted sample under a microscope with a hemocytometer. You can also test for viability during this count as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T13:41:13.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11493" CreationDate="2014-01-24T16:03:21.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the homebrew world, slurry refers to the settled solids in the bottom if your fermenter or storage container.  I have no doubt that Wyeaast or others may define it differently, but when homebrewers speak about slurry it's not the suspended yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T16:03:21.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11497" CreationDate="2014-01-24T16:45:09.303" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a downside to shaking the primary fermenter to re-suspend the yeast if the fermentation is going slowly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6300" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T17:05:37.413" Title="Can I re-aerate in the Primary?" Tags="|yeast|primary|aeration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11496" CreationDate="2014-01-24T17:05:37.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The downside would be potential oxygenation of the beer, but &quot;rousing&quot; of yeast is a long-established practice. I'd suggest gentle swirling rather than shaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T17:05:37.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10194" CreationDate="2014-01-24T17:55:08.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too was curious about this the other day.  Turns out for five gallons/18.9 L of 1.060 wort at 75% apparent attenuation, 449.1 L/ 15.86 cubic feet/ 118.64 gal of CO2 is produced (standard temperature and pressure.  This amounts to 0.88 kg/ 1.94 lb of CO2!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few charts for different gravities and apparent attenuations at my &lt;a href=&quot;http://lifefermented.wordpress.com/2014/01/22/how-much-co2-is-produced-from-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blog post&lt;/a&gt; about it.  I also explain all of the calculations behind it too, if you're curious.&#xA;- Dennis, &lt;a href=&quot;http://lifefermented.wordpress.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Life Fermented Blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6343" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T17:55:08.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11407" CreationDate="2014-01-25T14:39:55.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built with a collar, and after having it for 6 months, I don't think I'd change anything.  Getting kegs in/out is nice and easy, and with the collar I have enough height to fit an extra corny on the compressor hump (handy for cold-crashing).  I keep a fan inside it to keep the temperature even throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The collar has an added bonus of giving you a place to mount things (distribution block inside, bottle opener and temp controller outside, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6349" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T14:39:55.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11503" CreationDate="2014-01-25T15:21:05.697" Score="1" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an AG recipe for hefeweizen that I want to try.  It is 5 gallons, 9.5 lbs of grain, and I only have a 5 gallon picnic cooler tun. It calls for 3 temp rests and a mash out step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, will I have a problem starting out with a low water to grain ratio (say 0.7) in order to not over fill my tun with more than 5 gallons of water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6300" LastEditorUserId="6300" LastEditDate="2014-01-25T15:26:17.813" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T17:41:59.693" Title="Temperature rests for hefeweizen" Tags="|mash|mashing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11502" CreationDate="2014-01-25T17:41:59.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you won't, but you also may not need all those rests.  That would make it easier for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T17:41:59.693" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11505" CreationDate="2014-01-25T17:57:11.273" Score="0" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm re-attaching the CO2 to the home made kegerator I've inherited and I'm wondering if there are any steps one should follow for securing the hoses. Securing the hose clamps is pretty obvious, but I was wondering if there is anything I should do to preserve the plastic and or make for a better seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Forgive my ignorance but if this was a part on a bike I'd use some grease for example - just wondering if there is an equivalent for gas tubing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6350" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T18:24:14.170" Title="Kegging: hose clamp technique?" Tags="|kegging|co2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11504" CreationDate="2014-01-25T18:02:16.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had mine set up for 15 years and I haven't done anything more than use the clamps.  Judging from that, that's enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T18:02:16.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7594" CreationDate="2014-01-26T04:11:11.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider skipping the straining and racking to a secondary a few days later instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're putting the cool wort in contact with the strainer. The wort is most vulnerable at that stage: you haven't added the yeast. That means the strainer needs to be cleaned to avoid contamination. Even so many of these house hold strainers are nearly impossible to clean good enough. Plastic buckets carry the risk of developing small scratches that can house contaminants over time, that's why some advocate replacing them over time. So just think of all the nooks and crannies in a house hold strainer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why I recommend just racking to a secondary after a few days if you're concerned about the trub. There is significantly less risk of contamination in doing so. That also gives time for the smaller particles to settle that you aren't going to get out with a house hold strainer anyways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T04:11:11.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11508" CreationDate="2014-01-26T04:22:57.060" Score="4" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;Canning is often used to preserve foods: the microorganisms inside mason jars are killed by a boiling water bath and sealed when removed. Small amounts of unfermented wort are useful when yeast farming. Has anyone tried canning unfermented wort so that you have a small amount on hand? Specifically I'm thinking of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preparing the mix like a yeast starter. Say 1/2 cup of dried malt&#xA;extract to half a liter of water. (Per quart jar- leaving them&#xA;roughly half full.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cap the jars with standard canning lids and&#xA;bands. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Process in a boiling hot water bath for 15 minutes. (My&#xA;thoughts: basically the same as boiling for 15 minutes.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove from caner and let cool for 24 hours. (They should seal during this&#xA;time.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point you'd have jars of unfermented wort ready to use. So instead of going through the whole boiling process for a yeast starter, maybe you just sterile a flask and add in the wort and yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone try something like this? Thoughts or advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T17:56:54.053" Title="Canning unfermented wort for yeast farming?" Tags="|wort|yeast-starters|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11507" CreationDate="2014-01-26T05:20:08.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do this about once or twice a year. I'm an all grain brewer, so I typically just brew a batch of base malt. You can do the same with buying some DME/LME and adding that to the right amount of water to get the SG around 1.035-1.040. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your &lt;strong&gt;process sounds good&lt;/strong&gt;, although I would probably blend all the DME and water at once so you can check the SG, and then use a bottling bucket to dispense to the jars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a pressure cooker/canner - the boil must be under pressure at 15 psi / 1 atm. Wort pH is rarely under 4.5, so requires the higher boil temperature to destroy &lt;strong&gt;botulism-causing spores&lt;/strong&gt;. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cdc.gov/features/homecanning/&quot;&gt;home canning page&lt;/a&gt; has more details on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also a good idea to add appropriate amount of &lt;strong&gt;yeast nutrient&lt;/strong&gt; to the wort before canning. I always forget this when making a starter, so having it in the wort already (and sanitized) makes the day easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Using Concentrated Wort&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Canning wort does take some time, especially if you do brew-sized 5 or 10 gallon batches. To make the canned wort go further, you can make the wort SG deliberately higher so you need less of it. You can then dilute the wort with the appropriate amount of water (assuming your water supply is sanitary) at the point of use.  Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you make the wort SG 1.080 then dilute with the same amount of water. E.g. to make a 2 liter starter, take 1 can of wort and dilute with another quart of water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you make the wort SG 1.060 then dilute with half as much again water. E.g. to make a 1.5 liter starter, take 1 can of wort and dilute with 1/2 quart of water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The canned wort initially contains no oxygen, but there is some dissolved oxygen in the water, so adding water also gives a small initial boost to oxygen levels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T05:20:08.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11522" CreationDate="2014-01-26T13:36:20.553" Score="0" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make cider from pears. Right now I'm looking at buying a few kg of Abate Fetel (I think that's what they're called), because those are the cheapest pears by a factor of 3-4 right now. The ones I bought don't taste like much, but they need to ripen some more. What I can tell alreday is that they have a bitter note, I assume that's the tannin. What I want to know if this pear makes a good cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3959" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T01:18:09.270" Title="Is this a good pear for cider?" Tags="|cider|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-26T13:55:35.443" Score="2" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an existing keg of beer that I would like to switch to beer gas.  Is this feasible? Are there any problems with doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3419" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T15:11:30.233" Title="Beer gas on corny keg" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7594" CreationDate="2014-01-26T18:12:04.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In reality, it's not as big a deal as people make it out to be.  Get out what you can and don't worry about the rest.  You'll rack off of it anyway.  In fact, cold break in the fermenter can actually be good for the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T18:12:04.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11510" CreationDate="2014-01-26T18:15:13.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say &quot;switch to beer gas&quot; I assume you mean switching from regular air from a hand pump to CO2 on a draft system? If so, there aren't any problems with doing this. However, it has already been exposed to air. So there isn't any benefit in doing so- it will still only keep a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T18:15:13.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-27T00:09:33.653" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its easy for us homebrewers, but how difficult is it for a commercial brewer (whether it be small or large scale) to change a brewing recipe to affect the taste for small batches (10-100 bottles)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a pretty cool idea but am unsure if its possible...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6355" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T18:21:07.620" Title="Changing the Brew for Small Batches" Tags="|recipe|brewing|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11515" CreationDate="2014-01-27T01:43:02.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It very much depends upon how you want to affect the taste - in particular where in the brewing process that change has to happen. Changes in the grist, mash, boil affect the entire batch. Changes in fermentation depends upon how many fermentors the brewery has. Finally there is changes in packaging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even if your change could be delayed all the way until packaging time, it depends upon the brewer if they can and are willing to accommodate that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine you'd have more luck with smaller breweries. There is a 1200l microbrewery just down the road from me that uses disposable kegs - let's take them as an example. In principle they could add to their clearing tank some additional ingredients at the end of the kegging to add &quot;something&quot; to the beer for the last few kegs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even once you've got that far, you don't know how the mixture will turn out - balance is hard to achieve with just one shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T01:43:02.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11510" CreationDate="2014-01-27T15:11:30.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preparation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you plan to serve the beer through a stout or creamer faucet then it's a good idea to reduce the carbonation in the beer to about 30% of what it was. This can be done by also bleeding off most of the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in the headspace, possibly several times. For example, if the keg is currently 1/3 full of beer, then bleeding the headspace and leaving will reduce the overall carbonation in the beer to 1/3. If the keg is 2/3 full, then you'll need to bleed it 2-3 times, waiting a couple of days for the pressure to increase each time. You could skip this, but you'll end up with a lot of foam in the glass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding beer gas already mixed in the cylinder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bleed the gas from the keg until it's almost empty then fill the headspace to the desired pressure with the beer gas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding pure nitrogen, rather than ready mixed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce the pressure in the headspace. Bleed the headspace until the pressure is about a quarter of your ideal serving pressure. Beer gas is often served at 30 psi with a stout faucet, so 7 psi for the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pressurize to your target pressure (say, 30psi) with nitrogen. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The keg is now full with a mix of 25% carbon dioxide and 75% nitrogen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T15:11:30.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11507" CreationDate="2014-01-27T17:56:54.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do something similar with every batch, but I do not perform a full canning process. I normally calculate what I need for priming and for a starter. I sort of home-brewed the formulas... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gyle for Prming (quarts) = [32 (if I want in ounces)] * (keg factor@) * (60/(1000 * (FG-1))) * (desired volumes)/2.8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@3/5 if following CP's recommendation in JoHB, I usually ignore this since I also bottle from the keg before carbing. Also, CP's formula this is based on is tuned to 2.8 volumes, hence the volume factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starter oz = (64-16@@)*(35/(1000 * (FG-1))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@@ This just gets me close to the final desired concentration in 48 oz (for some head space in a growler).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just store these in canning jars in the fridge, and then..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before priming, I boil gyle, let it cool and pour in keg. (After which I immediately bottle a 12 pack or so for cellaring/comps). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before starting a starter, I boil the starter wort, adding about a pint of water (enough to bring it to about 64 oz) for boil off and make sure it's between 1.030 and 1.040 (adding water or boiling longer as necessary), allow to cool and pitch. This gives me ~48oz of wort to pitch in and I use growlers for my starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your method would work fine, but I do think it's easier to just refrigerate the wort and boil it before use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T17:56:54.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11515" CreationDate="2014-01-27T18:21:07.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For adding things to finished beers it's not too hard. Our local micro does one keg every week of different things that they add to their normal brews. (coffee/vanilla porter, double dry hopped IPA, mango pale ale, tart cherry brown, etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most breweries also have a pilot system that's one or two barrels (31 or 72 gallons) that they use for testing recipes or doing special small batches. That's big enough for them to scale it to their primary system, but also small enough that they aren't risking a huge amount of time or money if it doesn't turn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6339" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T18:21:07.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11504" CreationDate="2014-01-27T18:24:14.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people swear by stepless Oetiker clamps. They have a 360 degree seal without bunching the tubing. It's a bit more expensive since they aren't reusable, but if you're having problems I would check them out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6339" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T18:24:14.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-27T21:45:05.223" Score="2" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never brewed, but I am playing with the thought of starting to make fruit wines. While I can get very good alcohol of other categories, fruit wines are rare, and some types are not sold here at all (e.g. orange wine). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I glanced at the process in the Wikipedia article, but it didn't go into specifics. What do I need, in terms of equipment and conditions, to produce something drinkable? My grandparents used to make grapewine in the basement, but I don't like the harsh taste, so I suppose I will need to control the conditions more tightly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer the sweeter, more fruity versions above the fully dried ones, if this makes a difference. But I want actual fermented wine, not liqueur like triple sec. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not much worried about the need to get ingredients or master the process. I am accustomed to sourcing and dealing with unusual ingredients and additives for cooking, and also have no problem with measuring and tightly controlling food I am creating (measuring sugar content and temperature in candy making, measuring and adjusting pH of sauces, etc). I am more asking about the basic set of tools I will need to create a batch of wine, and also what conditions the wine needs during fermentation and aging - is the corner of the kitchen good enough, or do I need some kind of air conditioned cabinet/wine fridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastEditorUserId="6358" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T21:48:12.217" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T21:48:12.217" Title="Starting out with fruit wine?" Tags="|equipment|wine|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11509" CreationDate="2014-01-28T01:18:09.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The preferred choice of pears for making cider (or &quot;perry&quot;) are collectively known as &quot;perry pears&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Abate Fetel', AKA 'Abbé Fetel', does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; fall into this group. Abate Fetel is commonly described as &quot;more sweet&quot; than many other varieties, and because of this it is popular as one to eat rather than use for cider. The bitterness you tasted is more likely due to the unripened state if they are truly of this variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for a price as good as you are talking about, I would at least &lt;em&gt;consider&lt;/em&gt; giving it a try despite it not being one of the preferred varieties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that they're known to be very sweet can, according to one study I found (&lt;a href=&quot;http://extension.wsu.edu/maritimefruit/pages/perry.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://extension.wsu.edu/maritimefruit/pages/perry.aspx&lt;/a&gt;), imply other properties about it that may be useful in tailoring a recipe [if you decide to do so]. For example, the sample seems to suggest that &quot;sweet&quot; is correlated with &quot;low acid [and] low tannin&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the sweetness also allows one to assume a relatively high concentration of sugar in the pears, something else you would definitely want to take into consideration if you decided to try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Summation:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Unfortunately the short answer is that it's unlikely to be spectacular, so depending on your investment, expectations, opportunity cost, and other factors, you may want to shell out the extra money for one of the varieties that &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; on the list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://extension.wsu.edu/maritimefruit/Pages/PearCultivars.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://extension.wsu.edu/maritimefruit/Pages/PearCultivars.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6357" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T01:18:09.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-28T04:43:43.027" Score="1" ViewCount="950" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I am doing an ipa and was wondering if 14 days in the primary is to long before racking to a secondary for dry hopping. I see others saying 7 days in the primary then 14 days in the secondary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6276" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T15:53:24.040" Title="14 days in the primary to long?" Tags="|fermentation|secondary|primary|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-01-31T16:09:08.637" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11523" CreationDate="2014-01-28T05:04:00.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you will be fine. This question has been answered before &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5648/will-my-session-beer-be-ok-for-5-6-weeks-in-primary?rq=1&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5079/what-are-the-advantages-and-disadvantages-of-transferring-to-a-secondary-vs-a-l&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  On a personal note, I just bottled a batch last night that sat in the primary fermenter for six weeks, and it tasted very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, racking to a secondary vessel introduces a very small risk of oxidation or infection, and is unnecessary work unless (a) you plan to long-term batch condition your beer for six months or longer, or (b) if you are racking onto fruit or similar adjuncts. Also, (c) moderator Denny Conn recently cited some research that seems to indicate that some people prefer the flavor of dry hopping after racking the beer off of the yeast cake, but I can't find that link right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T05:04:00.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11534" CreationDate="2014-01-28T14:43:15.287" Score="-1" ViewCount="1454" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of the whiskey in a barrel, what % of it is barley?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, to make wort only 20% of spent grain is left.  This leads to a figure of 80% of the grain dissolved in the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the yeast is added, the wort is distilled, separating the alcohols and leaving stuff behind.  Seemingly the barley that has dissolved in the wort, does not get distilled and gets left behind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the original ratio of water liters to kg of grain?&#xA;After distillation, what % of the mixture is distilled off, and what % is left behind?&#xA;What would the barley grain makeup of the whiskey mixture be, or just alcohol is distilled taking the converted barley sugars, but leaving all the &quot;barley juice&quot; behind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3165" LastEditorUserId="3165" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T13:18:49.430" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T17:37:58.093" Title="barley content in whisky from barley grains" Tags="|mash|wort|whiskey|barley|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2014-01-31T16:08:20.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-28T15:02:37.020" Score="11" ViewCount="21665" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to beer (6 batches), I was using gelatin to clear my primary, but it has been noted that I then loose the ability to reuse the yeast.  I have been using American Ale II liquid yeast and at ~$7 a pop, if I can save it and reuse it batch to batch, this would be a good thing.  Can anyone provide me a step by step method on saving the yeast with other pros and cons? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T04:23:55.280" Title="How do I save yeast to be reused?" Tags="|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11523" CreationDate="2014-01-28T15:53:24.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the reference threads posted in previous answers, I wanted to comment that the Final Gravity (FG) should be taken in to consideration.  Specifically for a dry hopped IPA, you will want the fermentation to be complete and not ongoing in the secondary.  That way when you rack in to the secondary, the yeast is almost not present so that the hops can come in to contact with a maximum amount of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional notes: If at 14 days you take a gravity reading, are you at or below the target number?  If you are at or below the target number, you should rack the beer off of the yeast either to a secondary or right to a bottling bucket or cornelius keg.  If you haven't yet reached the target number, replace the airlock and let it go a little longer.  Also, how far apart are the bubbles in the airlock at 14 days?    1 bubble every 1-5min is a good sign of when to rack the beer out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6361" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T15:53:24.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11526" CreationDate="2014-01-28T16:06:57.013" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saving yeast is easier than some make it out to be.  When you xfer the beer to package it (or to a secondary) simply leave a little beer behind in the fermenter.  Use that beer to swirl up the slurry in the fermenter and pour it into 2 sanitized containers.  Store those in the fridge.  Each container should enough yeast to ferment an average batch of beer.  If you use one of the containers in the next 3 weeks or so, you can use it directly.  Beyond that, it's best to put the slurry into a starter container and add a bit (maybe a qt.) of fresh wort to &quot;wake it up&quot; before using.  Some people go to elaborate steps to rinse the yeast, but having tried it I found it really made no difference.  In addition, every time you play with your yeast like that you risk contaminating it unless you have lab conditions to work in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T16:06:57.013" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11551" CreationDate="2014-01-28T16:58:38.140" Score="2" ViewCount="2462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing an Irish Red Ale, followed by a Dry Irish Stout, both this week, and then I need to re-use that yeast within the following two to three weeks for an ESB (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/skills/10-award-winning-home-brew-recipes-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1.053 OG recipe was picked by a brewing buddy and calls for Wyeast 1084&lt;/a&gt;). All batches will be 2.5 gallons. The ESB recipe calls for pitching and fermentation at 70°F. For the red and the stout, I am hewing close to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381926&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BCS&lt;/a&gt; recipes (1.042 and 1.044 OGs) - except that I will sour 5% of the wort for the stout (and then boil and add to active fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering using the same yeast strain for all three batches. I am also planning to just pitch a fresh vial or smack-pack of liquid yeast into the first batch (pitching rate is right on per Mr Malty's pitching rate calculator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am going for &quot;dry-ness&quot; on all three beers. Is there a significant difference in attenuation between WLP004 and Wyeast 1084?  Brewer's Friend calculates I will get a couple more points of attenuation using Wyeast 1084.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have any fermentation temp control. My cellar is 62-63°F. I am thinking about putting the fermenter in a large tub of water and sticking it in a spare room where the temp fluctuates between 66°F and 70°F, hoping that internal beer temps will stay in the high 60s°F. Will this higher temp lead to production of esters inappropriate for these styles?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have heard that Irish Ale yeasts sometimes have trouble finishing. Have you experienced this? This may be subjective, but would you recommend another yeast for the stout to achieve adequate dryness? I have seen many recipes call for US-05.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am trying to figure out how to use the same yeast for all three recipes. My current thinking is to rack Batch 1 to another vessel, and then pitch Batch 2 onto the yeast cake. Do you have a better suggestion? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For Batch 3, I could leave some beer on the yeast cake and move the vessel to 20°F-45°F (garage) or 62°F (cellar), store for 1-3 weeks, and then re-warm and pitch Batch 3 onto the yeast cake. Is &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a more proper way to save the yeast for Batch 3 - either harvest some of the yeast cake from Batch 1 before pitching Batch 2, or wash the yeast cake &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will using the yeast for three generations cause a problem as long as the first two fermentations are strong? I have heard that three generations from low- to moderate-OG beers if OK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for so many questions. Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T21:09:12.863" Title="Irish Ale Yeast - Strain Selection, Fermentation Temps, and Re-using Yeast" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|harvest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11470" CreationDate="2014-01-28T17:25:53.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that most of the plastic fermentation buckets are only rated up to 170F. Boiling water in it would probably warp the bucket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3772" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T17:25:53.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11466" CreationDate="2014-01-28T17:43:16.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am convinced that the answer is that the PTFE probe is definitely safe, and it is unclear whether the PVC is safe, or whether it would leach unknown quantities of pthalates into your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PTFE is the chemical name for Teflon. As we know, Teflon is considered chemically inert and safe for use in food applications, including on no-stick cookware, as long as not heated above 200°F is not applied. Many commenters have suggested a lower safe temp of below 163°F. PTFE is commonly used in other food-grade applications, such as beverage tubing, and in medical applications, such as in hoses and other medical devices (e.g., heart valves). Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/files/specsheets/Chemfluor%20FEP-PFA-PTFE.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a spec sheet for a type of PTFE tubing, which shows it is chemically inert, and resistant to strong acids&lt;/a&gt;. Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn2.us.yokogawa.com/Teflon_datasheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;data sheet from Dupont for Teflon/PTFE&lt;/a&gt;, stating that it is safe for food applications under FDA regs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PVC, on the other hand, often contains plasticizers, such as phtalates (e.g., BPA) or DEHP, that leach into food products and the environment, and are considered to be hormone substitutes (they have hormonal effects on mammals). There are PVC products, such as Tygon tubing (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/files/specsheets/FT-Tygon-B443.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spec sheet&lt;/a&gt;) that contain no pthalates and meet FDA and NSF standards for being food-safe. There are also tons of PVC products that contain pthalates. The European Union has been more active in examining the role of pthalates such as BPA in human health. Here is a link to &lt;a href=&quot;http://ec.europa.eu/environment/waste/pvc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the EU's page on this subject&lt;/a&gt;. They have banned BPA for use in products used by infants and children. The FDA has taken a much more laissez-faire approach to the human health issue, but they have, for example, listed DEHP (a product in PVC) as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fda.gov/MedicalDevices/Safety/AlertsandNotices/PublicHealthNotifications/ucm062182.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an item of concern&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link to Wikipedia article on health effects of phtalates: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phthalate#Health_effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is that lead is often used in the manufacture of PVC coatings for electrical wires, and California's Proposition 65 requires that fact to be disclosed (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cancer.org/cancer/cancercauses/othercarcinogens/athome/cancer-warning-labels-based-on-californias-proposition-65&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;). Lead would not be used in the manufacture of PTFE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, if I had the choice, I would probably pay the extra $5 for the PTFE version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: grammar and added links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T03:35:01.347" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T03:35:01.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11521" CreationDate="2014-01-28T21:23:22.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need basic equipment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fermenting bucket or carboy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;airlock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tools to get the juice out of the fruit (can be as simple as cheese cloth to squeeze the fruit or as fancy as a juicer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hose for racking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each batch: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lots of fruit, preferably cheap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wine yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;normal table sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for some fruit: antigel to prevent gelation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for some fruit: acid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A web search should turn up plenty of recipes and instructions like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eckraus.com/fruit-wine-making/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.eckraus.com/fruit-wine-making/&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fruitwinemaker.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fruitwinemaker.com/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T21:23:22.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2308" CreationDate="2014-01-29T05:23:19.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;typically i dump the trub just as the fermentation is winding down...about 4 days in. This cleans out all of the garbage. If I had a hard time removing trub before the conical, I will do a quick dump about 30 minutes after filling the conical. To avoid oxygen exposure during a dump, I attach a balloon to the conical using a stopper and a short piece of tube, connected to a john guest fitting (for a good seal). I let it inflate for about 10 minutes, then dump. as the pressure builds, the headspace gases compress, so a small amount of volume in the balloon is necessary. After I dumb the trub, I attach a homemade yeast harvester. It is a closed system that attaches to the bottom valve that allows beer to fill it. of course i purge it with CO2 first. periodically i agitate/swirl the conical and the beer inside of the harvester gets displaced by falling yeast (since you remembered to leave the valve open) and develops a beautiful settled yeast cake ready for storage. when i am ready to remove my beer, I close the bottom valve, remove the yeast harvester, and fill my keg as normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6368" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T05:23:19.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11525" CreationDate="2014-01-29T15:26:25.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.probrewer.com/resources/distilling/whiskey.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ProBrewer page&lt;/a&gt; about whiskey distillation, the initial mash is 100Kg of malted barley and 600 litres of water, for a 6:1 ratio. This yields 80 - 87 litres of 80 proof spirit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the waste, U.S. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/Grains/Grains/grain_59.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2-row malt&lt;/a&gt; has an extract potential of 79%, so 21% of the malt (modulo conversion efficiency), by weight, is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; converted to sugar. That would be 21 Kg of spend grain in our theoretical batch. The malt will absorb some water (around 1 l/Kg according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/brown-ale/item/410-calculating-water-usage-advanced-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BYO&lt;/a&gt;), so the total weight of the spent grain will around 121 Kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T17:37:58.093" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T17:37:58.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11525" CreationDate="2014-01-29T15:57:05.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To sort of answer part of your question, in making scotch whiskey for example, the wort is fermented into a &quot;Wash&quot;, which is double-distilled into a &quot;new make spirit&quot; containing 60-70% abv., which is then diluted with water to approximately 63.5% abv before being put into barrels for aging. Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Single_malt_whisky&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T15:57:05.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11540" CreationDate="2014-01-29T16:49:45.453" Score="4" ViewCount="2211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer Kit: Brewferm Tarwebier&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was my first time using StarSan as it's hard to get in my neck of woods. Is this some ugly Krausen or contamination, if so what type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any recovery from this, can I rack from underneath it, spray it with some StarSan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stored the StarSan for a few days after cleaning bottles, before I reused it to clean my FV, I that that was okay to do? could this be the source of the contamination, some bottles had a few little specks of mold? :(&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YtOHR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T16:58:25.187" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T16:58:47.383" Title="Do I have contamination?" Tags="|contamination|krausen|starsan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11538" CreationDate="2014-01-29T17:40:51.567" Score="2" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry for seeming clueless, but I am clueless. I've only brewed about 15 batches, or less, of extract beers. Thus far, I've always bought prepackaged recipe &quot;kits&quot; similar to a Betty Croker cake mix.&#xA;Since finding this site, I am seeing a lot of questions regarding washing, rinsing and reusing yeast, but I havent seen (found) a reason why you wold? Is it just economical?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T19:32:29.197" Title="Why Reuse Yeast?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|reusing-yeast|harvest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11537" CreationDate="2014-01-29T17:49:21.180" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly economical, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason is potentially limited (or non-existent) commercial availability of specific strains. Either the yeast company's seasonal strain releases or something cultivated from yeast remaining in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason is to develop a &quot;house&quot; strain, or to modify the behavior of an existing strain. For instance, the good-ole Wyeast 1056/WLP001/US-05 is indicated as becoming extremely attenuative after a number of serial re-pitchings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T17:49:21.180" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11536" CreationDate="2014-01-29T19:08:18.517" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smell: Smells like beer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Look: Looks like beer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Taste: Tastes like beer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Verdict: It's beer!&lt;p&gt;&#xA;I think the issue here was paranoia of using a new sanitiser and tech. The Krausen looked to me like colony of 'something' floating on clear head, instead of all the foam looking brown and Krausen like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T19:08:18.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-29T21:33:36.867" Score="3" ViewCount="1147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the aroma of Juniper and want to feature it in my next pale ale. I'm currently extract/kit brewing, and I had a few questions about how to go about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I read some tips about adding to secondary &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10496/adding-juniper-berries-to-secondary&quot;&gt;over at this question&lt;/a&gt;. Does it ever make sense to add Juniper at another time? Say during the wort boil?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm going for a flavor roughly along the lines of Mammoth Mountain Brewing Co.'s &quot;IPA 395&quot;. Does anyone know what kind of Juniper produces this flavor (there seem to be many species...)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I am starting with a pale ale recipe, should I omit hops at any point in favor of the juniper? Or do I just add both?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2450" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T21:46:12.160" Title="Juniper berries for brewing pale ales" Tags="|beer|ingredients|flavor|ipa|pale|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11541" CreationDate="2014-01-29T21:46:12.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The earlier in the process you add it, the more flavor you'll lose.  The aroma will be boiled off or driven off by CO2 during fermentation.  Boiling might extract flavor, but I'm guessing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;no idea&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add both&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T21:46:12.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11547" CreationDate="2014-01-29T22:28:11.863" Score="2" ViewCount="599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two, square Cambro brand containers, one 12L the other 21L. These are made from Polypropylene and have square lids. I am interested in using these for a no chilling my wort, I am wondering if any other brewers out there have experience using them (as opposed to the HDEP types). The temperature rating on them states that they can go up to 160º F. On the face of it this would probably require having to at least chill the wort down to that point, but I am curious if this would be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2704" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T13:34:55.647" Title="Using Square Polypropylene container for no chill brewing" Tags="|chilling|no-chill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11545" CreationDate="2014-01-30T00:30:03.560" Score="4" ViewCount="9576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to brew 3 batches of Imperial Stout at the same time with the same recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is that I will age two batches with different oak cubes (one will be soaked in bourbon, one will be plain oak) and one will be left as it is. I want to compare 3 batches at the end. Anyway...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many oz of cubes (assuming they are 1/2&quot;) should I use for a 5 gallon batch?&#xA;How long should I keep them in the carboy, so I won't over-oak the stout (I heard that it might be an issue)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T23:47:42.410" Title="How much oak cubes should I use for 5 gallon batch?" Tags="|aging|stout|oak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11544" CreationDate="2014-01-30T00:54:20.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind this is for oak cubes, but I've heard a good starting point is between one to two ounces for at least two to three weeks.  The lower the amount, the less oak flavor you'll get in a longer amount of time.  The more oak you add, the more oak flavor you'll get in a less amount of time.  Cubes have more surface area (therefor less contact with the beer and less/slower extraction) than chips, but less than spires or barrels, so your mileage may vary depending on what you read or hear from people.  Also understand that people's responses to this will vary depending on how much oak they personally like, which may not match what you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, your best bet is to start probably at 1-1.5 oz, let it sit for two weeks, draw a sample, and see if it is to your liking.  If not, let it sit longer (or even add more oak).  Don't be surprised if it takes in the upwards of months to get the flavor you're looking for, as the oak flavor will change over time.  Be careful to not add too much oak, as it may impart undesirable intensity.  Luckily if you do happen to over-oak your beer, it sounds like you'll have an oak-less batch that you can blend back in to the oaked batch(es) to help subdue the error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-01-30T02:01:20.877" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T02:01:20.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11543" CreationDate="2014-01-30T13:17:04.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't comment on the safety of the material, but I can say that No Chilling does not really work if you try to drop the wort temps down before adding the liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the wort goes into the tank, it is the fact that the wort is very close to 100C/212F that guarantees against infection while its sealed. The super-hot wort does a wet pasteurization of all the surface area inside the vessel, and this is NOT the same as &quot;sanitizing&quot; via StarSan or iodine, as it is WAAAY more effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you drop the temps of your wort down past 85C/185F or so, then the wort might not stay hot enough for long enough to do a true pasteurization of the tank. If that happens, you are guaranteeing an infection, ranging from immediate tank-swelling to more subtle off-flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature risk, combined with the less well known material (as it related to No Chilling), would lead me to recommend that you do not use these vessels. The &quot;standard&quot; No Chilling HDPE vessels run less than $20, so I can't see a reason to risk it with something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T13:17:04.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11543" CreationDate="2014-01-30T13:34:55.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fivegallonideas.com/plastic-types-old/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Regular Polypropylene will release mild to moderate toxins at high temperatures.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While Polypropylene (PP) is food-grade safe at room temperatures, and commonly used for containers (arguably safe for chilled wort according to comments in the previous link), &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/705094/POLYPROPYLENE/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Energy Working Group gives it a &quot;low&quot; rating for overall hazard&lt;/a&gt;.  My recommendation, don't use it for homebrewing when you have safer alternatives for the same price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T13:34:55.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11550" CreationDate="2014-01-30T17:42:38.833" Score="3" ViewCount="2848" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to brew an imperial stout, and I was wondering, about bitterness level in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to create a smooth sweetish imperial stout (maybe somewhat on the same level with a milk stout), but strong in the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use less bitter hops to reduce IBU to 50? Should I use more specialty grains (like honey malt)? Or should I age it with oak little bit longer to add vanilla taste? Should I use a specific Yeast that are less active (WLP099 vs WLP039 vs WLP001)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a feeling, that it could be a combination of all of it, but it would be interesting to hear it from somebody with experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T14:05:59.427" Title="Reducing Bitterness level in Imperial Stout" Tags="|stout|bitterness|ibu|imperial|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2014-01-30T18:01:45.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important number when trying to balance bitterness in a beer is the ratio of international bittering units to starting gravity. This is often expressed as BU:GU (bittering units to gravity units). For reference, &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2009/09/26/balancing-your-beer-with-the-bitterness-ratio/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this posting&lt;/a&gt; has a more detailed explanation and some example BU:GU numbers for popular styles. Some Googling will get you some BU:GU numbers for imperial stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An imperial stout would typically have quite a high BU:GU -- close to 1.0. If that's not to your liking, adjust your hop additions to lower that ratio. Be careful not to bring it down too low, you'll end up with a sickly sweet beer. The bitterness is important to balance the sweetness from the residual sugars present in a big beer like RIS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't suggest changing the quantity of specialty grain to achieve a sweeter beer. Find a proven recipe and leave the grain bill as is and adjust the hops to achieve the desired BU:GU numbers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast won't have much affect on perceived bitterness. A higher attenuating yeast will produce a drier beer, which accentuates bitterness but this affect is small. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer aging, oak, vanilla, etc. have no effect on bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sulphate accentuates bitterness. If your water is high in sulphate, or you're adjusting your water to increase sulphate, remember that this will increase the perceived bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T18:01:45.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11529" CreationDate="2014-01-30T20:50:27.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;WLP004 and 1084 are actually the same yeast. Slightly different environments and /or methods of analysis probably account for the slightly different specs from each manufacturer. Yeast is a living thing after all. Your own brewing environment and methods will affect attenuation more than WhiteLabs vs WYeast will. If you're going for dry, read this article - some great info here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/item/1604-what-mash-temperatures-create-a-sweet-or-dry-beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/stories/item/1604-what-mash-temperatures-create-a-sweet-or-dry-beer&lt;/a&gt;. Though if you're doing extract brewing, there's less you can do to affect dryness. I've heard that &quot;Extra&quot; Pale Malt Extract is slightly more fermentable than just pale. Not sure how true this is though. You could replace a small amount of the base Pale malt extract with sugar though (which is 100% fermentable) to get a slightly dryer beer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The beer usually gets slightly warmer than the surrounding room temp due to yeast activity. Wyeast says the yeast does well up to 72F, White Labs 68F. Average that out to 70F? Hard to say. I think you'll be ok though ... personally I'd shoot for 67-68F if possible. If the fermenters in a bath, you can always toss a little ice in and swish it around (to avoid cold spots) once a day.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I haven't experienced this myself, and I've brewed with that yeast quite a few times over the years. Though that's still just a sample size of 20 or so. Nothing definitive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That's what I do. Works fine. I usually don't go past 3 batches that way, but have done 4 without issue. And a couple friends pretty much do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I always do a transfer/kegging on the day I brew so new wort goes right back onto the yeast. As harvesting yeast successfully can be tedious, if you really can't brew the day the fermenter is freed, I would probably leave a small layer of beer on the yeast and keep it in the cellar and then just use it asap.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A lot of homebrewers (as I) routinely reuse yeast 3x. You should be fine ... apart from any storage issues in #6.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2108" LastEditorUserId="2108" LastEditDate="2014-01-30T21:09:12.863" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T21:09:12.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11526" CreationDate="2014-01-30T23:31:15.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The guys at Coopers have written up a few guides for using the yeast from their (very popular) Pale Ale. A lot of people like using this yeast particularly because the beer is additive and preservative free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From one of the discussion threads on their site... (linked below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Coopers, encourage home brewers to use the yeast from naturally conditioned Coopers ales. The same ale strain is used across the range - Mild Ale, Pale Ale, Dark Ale, Sparkling Ale, Best Extra Stout and Extra Strong Vintage Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are numerous documented techniques, with varying levels of complexity, for re-activating the yeast in naturally conditioned beer. The method described below may leave some readers, experienced in growing yeast cultures, aghast. \u201cWhat! No stir plate, no malt, no alcohol swabs, no nutrient, no way! However, for Coopers yeast, it works…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Method&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  1. Buy a six pack of Coopers Original Pale Ale and place upright in the fridge for about a week for the yeast to settle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2. Mix about 600ml of boiling water and 4 tablespoons of dextrose/sugar in a pyrex jug, cover with cling-wrap and leave to cool in the fridge for about 30mins.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  3. Open 4 bottles and decant the beer into a jug, leaving behind the yeast sediment - about a couple of centimetres.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  4. Pour the sugared water equally into each bottle, cover with cling-wrap and secure with a rubber band.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  5. Shake the bottles then place them in a dark spot at a temperature in the mid 20\u2019s.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  6. Give the bottles a shake in the morning and at night to keep the yeast in suspension.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  7. After around 2 to 3 days the yeast should become active and begin forming a head.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  8. Pitch the active yeast into a brew immediately or store in the fridge for about a week.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Just remember to pull it out of the fridge to warm for couple of hours prior to pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some additional points to keep in mind;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - start with more yeast by using all 6 bottles,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - buy beer with the freshest yeast (ie. latest \u201cBest After\u201d date),&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - lower alcohol content is better (mild ale or pale ale),&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - it\u2019s okay to hold the culture at slightly higher temps to promote a quicker reactivation,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - one sanitised vessel (approx 1 litre) may be used rather than separate bottles,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - make sure the culture smells okay before pitching,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - buy another 6 pack for each culture and&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - don\u2019t forget to drink the decanted beer   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.coopers.com.au/coopers-forum/topic/7349/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The thread with discussion is here.&lt;/a&gt; There is some seriously good info in there about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6382" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T23:31:15.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-31T01:51:44.747" Score="3" ViewCount="1081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still a beginner, this forum has helped me a great deal. I made an IPA, which cleared very well in the primary.  It was transferred to a secondary for dry hopping, adding a muslin bag with 1 oz Citra pellet hops, it's been a week and I pulled the hops, satisfied with the flavor.  I got some sediment in the bottom of the carboy, but the beer isn't as clear as it was following the primary. Should I wait to bottle or just go with it as is, carefully racking to a bottling bucket? Will any carry over sediment settle in the bottle?  Thanks for the help and patience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2014-02-03T02:18:07.667" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T02:18:07.667" Title="When dry hopping, do you wait for clearing before bottling?" Tags="|bottling|dry-hop|beginner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11553" CreationDate="2014-01-31T02:25:49.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bottle now and not bother waiting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer will clear in the bottles while you are waiting for the carbonation process to take place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bottled some dry hopped beer that you could not see through and when it was ready to drink(just under two weeks) it was crystal clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T02:25:49.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-31T02:57:49.967" Score="1" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible for me to use a regular store bought pump to tap a keg, then untap it and place it in a kegerator with a co2 pump without the keg going flat?  Would I be able to change out the oxygen that gets put into the keg with co2, or would I be spoiling the keg much quicker because I use the regular pump? Thanks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6384" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T09:34:29.690" Title="Can I switch keg from regular pump to kegerator" Tags="|kegerator|kegs|pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11457" CreationDate="2014-01-31T05:35:11.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the grain percentages you listed, I wouldn't be surprised if it's darker than 9 SRM. Adding 2-4% roasted malt is a common technique for giving Red Ales their deep red hue. Color is also notoriously difficult to predict accurately and can vary depending on caramelization in the boil, the batch of malt, tannin extraction during sparging, and even hops. Don't worry about this batch--it may turn out fine--and maybe nix the chocolate malt next time if it's darker than you like. For more on color, check out Designing Great Beers by Ray Daniels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6385" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T05:35:11.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2014-01-31T07:02:37.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commercial breweries use two main types of labels: &lt;strong&gt;Glue labels&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;Sticker-type labels&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glue labels&lt;/strong&gt; are easy to remove by soaking in &lt;strong&gt;percarbonate based cleansers&lt;/strong&gt; (OxyClean, Easy Clean, B-Brite, One Step, PBW, and others). You can also use water plus Ammonia, or just plain hot water. Some scraping may be required for complete removal. Glue labels are most often used by larger breweries because they can be applied at high speed, and the labels themselves are inexpensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller Breweries tend to use &lt;strong&gt;Sticker-type lables&lt;/strong&gt; because the labeling equipment is less expensive to purchase and maintain. Unfortunately for homebrewers, these labels are nearly impossible to get off without petroleum-based solvents (like WD-40, mineral spirits, etc) or &lt;strong&gt;citrus degreasers&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try soaking the bottles, and if the label comes off, great. You're done. &#xA;If there's a gummy residue left behind, try using a citrus-based degreaser. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6385" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T07:02:37.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11555" CreationDate="2014-01-31T09:34:29.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you plan to consume all of the contents of the keg within a couple of days to a week, this may be a possibility.  Using oxygen to tap a keg of beer causes the beer to stale exponentially quicker than regular CO2, even more so in cold temperatures.  I would advise against doing this unless you plan to have it all drank in one sitting at a party.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the style of keg, you may consider purchasing a portable CO2 charger.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?products_id=12296&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This one&lt;/a&gt; is a good option if you have cornelius kegs.  Go easy on the trigger though, as it burns through CO2 quickly, and there's no regulator on it.  If anything, plan to pour out slowly from the keg, maybe even over-carbonate a very slight bit more than normal to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T09:34:29.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11553" CreationDate="2014-01-31T13:57:29.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping can induce some haze from hop polyphenols/hop tannins. Although, I'd be surprised if 1oz would really contribute to much haze.  Sounds like you are ready to bottle.  I wouldn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T13:57:29.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2014-01-31T14:05:59.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bitterness in a big stout is more than just the IBUs from hops.  There is going to be a contribution of perceived bitterness from the roasted malts as well.  Sometimes hopping a big roasty beer to a certain IBU value will result in a beer that is too bitter because the IBU calculation doesn't account for that roast malt contribution.  This phenomenon is palate/taster dependent too, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this is one of those things that you need to plan to dial it in with the next batch.  I think brew it they way you think it should look on paper.  Then take good notes for next time and rewrite the recipe after you've really spent some time tasting the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more fullness in the malt you can drive that with yeast attenuation or specialty malts.  Doing it with specialty malts can sometimes lead to too much complex sugars, or screw up your mash chemistry some.  I prefer to experiment with yeast strains and ferment temps do drive final gravity and perceptions of sweetness and residual bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T14:05:59.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11544" CreationDate="2014-01-31T14:10:22.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way is to plan on tasting the beer regularly as the oaking occurs.  For me it would be a matter of free time on my hands.  If you think you can get in there and taste it every couple days using more oak would make things go faster.  If you want to taste it once a week then less oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general I agree &amp;lt;2 oz of oak is a good place to start for 5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind to that you get different flavors from the oak depending on how long it sits.  Initially the flavor is predominantly woody raw oak stuff.  But with more time the wood starts to yield more of the wood sugars and vanilla like cmpds.  So its really hard to gauge that part of the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T14:10:22.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11526" CreationDate="2014-01-31T14:24:15.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should gelatin fining in a separate vessel than the one primary was in if you want to save the yeast.  You are correct in thinking that you do not really want that gelatin mess coming out with the yeast you plan to re pitch.  It will coat the yeast and slow their growth and performance the second time around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably on of the few times a secondary gets used by me if I am not kegging and fining in the keg directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To capture the yeast, I'd pour in 1L of sterilized cool water on top of the yeast cake.  Swirl really well. Then pour of into a new container.  Let the solution settle for 10-20 minutes and pour off the cloudy stuff leaving whats on the bottom behind (dead yeast, hops and protein trub).  All the new containers should be clean and sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T14:24:15.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11526" CreationDate="2014-01-31T17:06:27.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second Denny Conn's explanation.  I have been repitching yeast and have had no ill effects when creating a yeast starter.  I usally pitch 1/4 C. of slurry to a 1.040 wort of the size that Beersmith calculates for me and have had no problems.  I keep the yeast from the Primary and get about 4-5 more batches from the first generation (second pitching) of the yeast.&#xA;Go ahead...Have fun...The results just may be spectacular!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6300" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T17:06:27.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11457" CreationDate="2014-01-31T18:38:45.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was brewing a Pale Ale. When I was putting it in a carboy, it had red-brown color. After 3 weeks it became pale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it will become lighter with time. Just let your yeast do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T18:38:45.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11553" CreationDate="2014-01-31T19:21:13.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are all good answers.  I always try to move by carboy to the spot where I'm going to siphon from for a few hours (ideally 12 hours ore more) before I do siphon so as much can settle as possible.  Assuming your bottle conditioning these you won't be pouring out the last drops, so what ever settles in the bottle will stay in the bottle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T19:21:13.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11537" CreationDate="2014-01-31T19:32:29.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also for high gravity beers this can be helpfull.  If you brew a big IPA and have a large yest cake at the bottom, you can put a barley wine or IRS on it and it will ferment much faster.  Just make sure the fermentation went well first!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T19:32:29.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-31T19:56:09.087" Score="1" ViewCount="1165" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Jan 19, I brewed what will end up being a 5 gal. batch of Nut Brown Ale.  I had decent mash efficiency and ended up at 1.046 @ 68 deg. after the boil and subsequent cool.  I then split the total of six(6) gal of wort evenly into two sanitized corneys.  The evening before I made a yeast starter with 2C water to 1/2C light DME and two packets of Safale S-04 dry Ale Yeast and left it on the stir plate with sanitized foil over the top of the flask.  I pitched this yeast split evenly between the two corneys and sealed and shook/stirred the kegs.  Then I installed my air locks which are nothing more than air in connectors with a copper tube for structure running through a vinyl tube to a regular air lock.  I have used this method once before quite successfully.  I stored these in the den with a brew belt around the middle of both kegs.  After only a few hours, I started to see reasonable activity in the air locks.  Just two days later we were hit with a cold snap that dropped the house temp to between 60 and 64.  At that point, the activity stopped completely.  It is now the 31st of Jan.  The cold snap has been over for a couple days now but the former activity has not resumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned that the fermentation is completely stalled?  Should I do something to restart it and if so, what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3986" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T18:49:10.400" Title="Stuck fermentation - Should I be concerned?" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11567" CreationDate="2014-01-31T20:27:46.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to know what the gravity is to know if it has stalled. Airlock activity will not tell you this. This is documented in several other questions. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3151/no-bubbles-in-the-airlock-should-i-still-bottle-the-brew&quot;&gt;No bubbles in the airlock - should I still bottle the brew?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10322/first-time-airlock-wont-start&quot;&gt;First Time Airlock Won&amp;#39;t Start&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also for future reference, one standard 11.5g packet of S-04 easily has enough cells to ferment 5 gal, or even 6 gal at that 1.046, without a starter. A good place to check to see if you need to make a starter is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mr. Malty pitching rate calculator.&lt;/a&gt; Not having to make a starter is a big advantage of dry yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, S-04 is designed to be pitched directly into wort, so &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFA_S04.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;you don't really even need to rehydrate it&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;although some homebrewers advocate rehydration&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60-64 degrees probably would not knock out S-04 though. So it's probably finished, but the only way to know is with a hydrometer reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other questions about rousing yeast (increase temp, rock the fermentor), or adding more yeast (almost definitely not going work here, you should have had plenty to begin with with 2 packets of dry yeast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information I would search this site, there are a bunch of questions and answers related to this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/search?q=stuck+fermentation&quot;&gt;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/search?q=stuck+fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T18:49:10.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11570" CreationDate="2014-01-31T22:52:07.243" Score="3" ViewCount="24786" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing an imperial stout this weekend and I am planning to use 8oz of maltodextrin for 5 gallon batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine had a kit last time which had a maltodextrin in it but with no instructions. Also, after googling it I didn't find a clear answer (brewers were using it during differently). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering, when should it be added? In the middle of the boil? Near or after the flame out? Should I just pour the powder in to the kettle or should I mix it with 2 cups of water like corn corn sugar before boiling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T02:44:19.867" Title="When and how should I add Maltodextrin" Tags="|additives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11569" CreationDate="2014-01-31T23:35:58.187" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maltodextrin dissolves easily enough that the powder can be added directly to the boil. Beginning, middle, and end are all perfectly acceptable times for the addition. However...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to add unfermentable adjuncts (maltodextrin, lactose) at the same time as the priming sugar, just before I bottle the beer. Boil the maltodextrin in enough water to cover it (2-3 cups per pound) for a couple minutes to sanitize. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to wait because:&#xA; 1. You may not need the maltodextrin. Waiting till bottling allows you to taste the fermented beer and decide if it needs the extra &quot;chewiness&quot; that maltodextrine provides.&#xA; 2. Fewer dissolved solids at the beginning of the fermentation (ie lower starting gravity) is less stressful for the yeast, which gives a healthier fermentation and better tasting beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6385" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-02-01T02:44:19.867" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T02:44:19.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11572" CreationDate="2014-02-01T15:58:48.597" Score="2" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in growing my own hops for decoration and brewing - mostly brewing ;-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to purchase both male and female plants to get flowers?  My spouse who is a gardener pointed out this possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6132" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T16:11:03.057" Title="Do both male and female hops need to be grown side by side?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11571" CreationDate="2014-02-01T16:11:03.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you do not. Only the females produce cones, and pollinated cones are not desirable.  Buy some rhizomes in the spring, plant them in a location that can meet their requirements (lots of light, lots of &lt;em&gt;height&lt;/em&gt; and support for bining), and within a year you'll have beautiful hop bines and cones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T16:11:03.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11576" CreationDate="2014-02-01T17:37:22.933" Score="3" ViewCount="830" Body="&lt;p&gt;When is the best time to add honey to a 5 gallon wort of Brown Ale, and what is the best amount? I don't know weather it would be best at the beginning or closer to bottling time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-02-01T19:01:29.430" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T22:12:11.097" Title="Honey addition to brown ale" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11605" CreationDate="2014-02-02T01:08:54.337" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often the advice with beer is to store it somewhere cool for a while before bottling for various reasons such as taste and clearing and removing chill haze.&lt;p&gt;I'm currently brewing a Wit Beer from BrewFerm and it has the generic instructions for all its beers to store the beer before bottling.&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking for a wit beer, I kind of want to keep it cloudy/hazy, If I store the beer will the majority of the yeast fall out, but still remain cloudy with other particles maybe proteins still give me a haze? Or will this completely clear my wit beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-02-02T12:18:31.813" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T06:57:19.507" Title="Wit Beer I'm guessing I don't wanna store it to clear?" Tags="|clarity|extract-brewing|cloudy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-02T01:55:50.817" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am short of 5 gallons at bottling or when I transfer to secondary can I add spring or purified water at this time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T17:54:58.850" Title="Addition of spring water at bottling" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11573" CreationDate="2014-02-02T01:59:01.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to add honey to ales, but it is a bit tricky to use. If you add it to the boil, it typically dries out completely and is just an expensive way of increasing the alcohol content without adding much in the way of flavor. If you add 50% of your malt bill in honey, you have a braggot. If you add it after primary fermentation is complete, it tends to retain more honey flavor. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-738-honey.aspx?activeingredientid=738&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Honey can carry spores and other naturally occurring germs&lt;/a&gt;, so some people may desire to boil it, while many brewers will simply warm it to facilitate racking. If you boil it for long, it will have a burnt taste (like a bochet). If you don't actually boil it, but slowly bring the temp to 170F (77'C) or so and keep it there for 30 minutes, you can caramelize it a bit, which will not only help kill some bugs, but also it will make some of the honey less fermentable and leave more honey flavor. If you use 1 lb or less, it will be fairly subtle. If you use more, you may need to age it much longer than a normal ale, so it won't taste like soap (what I think a young mead tastes like). I've also just used honey to prime with, and it works pretty good and retains a honey flavor. This is probably the least expensive and most reliable way of adding a subtle honey flavor, especially if you boil a pint or so of water and add the honey to it and keep it at 170F (77'C) for 20-30 minutes. If you just boil the honey, it won't have much flavor (might as well use corn sugar). Good luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I added honey to a brown ale Memorial Day and tried a slightly different approach. I followed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bee-america.com/content/can-honey-taste-even-better&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these instructions&lt;/a&gt; for the most part, but used 1 cup water, 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 3 lbs of nearly raw, local honey. I let it boil lightly about 10 minutes, until it turned from gold to red, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQbzy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQbzy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I tasted it this weekend and was pleasantly surprised. This was a robust, dark, brown, so I was afraid the honey might not punch through, but it makes a significant addition of toffee, honey and caramel tones. I am looking forward to kegging this :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also a little surprised as according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=163268&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, especially this picture, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w2v2p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w2v2p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, it should have taken much longer to achieve the red color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2017-06-05T22:12:11.097" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T22:12:11.097" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11567" CreationDate="2014-02-02T02:17:26.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, S04 is really slow at lower temps. I had an oatmeal stout that took about 4 weeks to reach the anticipated FG at about 62F ambient temps. Time is your friend. As Paul points out, the airlock is not much of an indicator, as well, when fermentation slows you may not be able to see any activity, but it will still be working. Check the gravity every week or so until it reaches anticipated FG and you should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T02:17:26.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10499" CreationDate="2014-02-02T02:21:58.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mr. Beer will NOT explode.  The lid is designed to allow pressure to escape.  When rinsing it out you  turn it upside down with the lid on and water seeps out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6387" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T02:21:58.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3262" CreationDate="2014-02-02T06:26:48.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most hops in the US are grown in the Yakima valley, technically a desert. Watering hops may be necessary depending where you are located but let me assure you any water there would be irrigation from the grower, as there is little or no rainfall. Dripline has been recommended on many sites and I would predict this is the standard of the region.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6389" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T06:26:48.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11587" CreationDate="2014-02-02T14:50:24.333" Score="0" ViewCount="705" Body="&lt;p&gt;The expected FG from my receipt was supposed to be 1014, but it has been stable at 1020 for about 3 weeks now. The wort has been on the fermentation tank for about 4 weeks, it reached 1020 after 1 week and has been stable since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature in the room was a bit lower than I first thought, but probably not too low. It has been around 18'C (65'F) all weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I smell the wort, it has a really strong smell that attacks my nose! Kind of like Ammonium bicarbonate, but not as strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe for me bottle this IPA now? If it is needed, the recipe is here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/kontra-smash-ipa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/kontra-smash-ipa&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Already bottled it, but added a bit more sugar than first planned. Ended up with 8.5 grams per litre. Would this be okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6253" LastEditorUserId="6253" LastEditDate="2014-02-02T21:18:11.600" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T07:20:47.350" Title="Safe to bottle IPA with higher FG than expected?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11060" CreationDate="2014-02-02T16:49:37.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the main reason for topping off wine is to reduce headspace. This is only necessary after initial fermentation, when the CO2 produced wards off Oxygen. Wine is very susceptible to oxidation. However, if you have the wine in a carboy already, use instinct to think about how much you will disturb the wine by topping off. I think people normally top off directly after a racking. Also make sure you are topping off with juice or wine that hasn't been exposed to contaminants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3885" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T16:49:37.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2014-02-02T19:25:18.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I manage to get FG on a Wyeast Labs 3724 French Saison down to 1000. Taste was great too, no infection. In the same batch we also fermented WLP565 Beligian Saison and ended up on 1004. Same base wort, time and temprature as 3724.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6393" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-02-03T14:05:07.223" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T14:05:07.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11580" CreationDate="2014-02-03T02:17:06.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a newbie, but have a few batches of IPA behind me. My batches were suppose to finish around 1.014, but all were 1.020 and they were fine, primed with 5oz of corn sugar for the 5 gallon batch.  Don't know about the smell though, mine smelled and tasted like beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T02:17:06.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11593" CreationDate="2014-02-03T05:13:07.990" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read on HBT that someone would save his yeast cake into three plastic bottles, and then use each bottle in a new batch. I didn't have three plastic bottles, used to hold pressure from the yeast as opposed to glass. And the guy at my LHBS told me the pressure in the plastic bottles would be bad for the yeast, and he just saves his yeast in a growler. Given I had many empty growlers, I just poured my yeast cake, with some fermented wort to swirl it up, into a growler and put it in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question, given the above &quot;thirds&quot; implication, can I reuse the yeast in my growler, and how much to use for my next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast was a wyeast 001&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T18:03:33.803" Title="Saving yeast in growler" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11536" CreationDate="2014-02-03T05:50:55.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For any beer you suspect to be contaminated, the bottom line is that if it tastes good and smells good, it is good. Also, the brown gunk in your fermenter looks like protein that would have clumped together during the boil. It's common to see it floating around on the krausen (yeast foam) during fermentation. Hope the beer turns out well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6385" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T16:58:47.383" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T16:58:47.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11584" CreationDate="2014-02-03T06:02:38.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saving yeast in a grower, or any other glass, stainless steel, or ceramic container is just fine. Store the yeast in the fridge, covered with plastic wrap to keep critters out. Fresh yeast will remain healthy enough to pitch (jargon for &quot;use to start a fermentation&quot;) for at least two weeks. After that, a starter is recommended. As for how much slurry to use, the best resource around is the Mr. Malty &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yeast Calculator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6385" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T06:02:38.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11580" CreationDate="2014-02-03T07:20:47.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that you've bottled it also with extra sugar, I think you should at least take precautions for exploding bottles. For example, placing the bottles in a water bath (not completely covered, water level just below the caps.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will help absorb rapid temperature swings and also absorb the energy from any explosions. If you also have something to cover the bottles with - a large plastic box, tarpaulin etc.. that will also be worth while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not possible for anyone here to say if your bottles are safe. It really depends upon if there were more fermentables still in the wort. A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/forced-fermentation-test.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forced fermentation test&lt;/a&gt; can tell you that. But since it's too late for that, best to just play it safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T07:20:47.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11596" CreationDate="2014-02-03T08:50:51.837" Score="10" ViewCount="6051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to understand the mechanism behind cold crashing. When cold crashing, you cool the fermented brew, yeast and suspended solids settle. With my first cider, a very turbid bottle visible cleared in a day or two. Why do solids settle whan cooling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, sedimentation happens continously and is faster at low viscosities of the suspending liquid. Cooler water is actually more viscous so you'd expect slower sedimentation.   Another purely physical explanation would be that with colder temeperatures  there's less diffusive mass transport and the actual sedimentation dominates. But the temperature difference between ordinary storage and cold crashing is not that much, and in other sedimeantion applications we don't talk about temperature at all. So I assume it's no purely physcial process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would &lt;em&gt;assume&lt;/em&gt; that by cooling, we immobilize the yeast cells leading to them sedimenting at the bottom, but that's pure conjecture on my part and I'd like to hear a detailed explanation of the hows and whys of cold crashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3959" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T16:03:10.083" Title="Why exactly does cold crashing work?" Tags="|cold-crash|cold|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2706" CreationDate="2014-02-03T12:28:40.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was touched upon above, but you are going to be better off using wild yeasts than a strain of bread yeast.  A passable wine can be made by crushing a few handfuls of grapes in a blender and mixing that with grape juice (or other fruit juice).  This will yield a wine with a lower alcohol content - around 7-8% depending on the base juice.  Additional table sugar can be added (heat a portion of the juice to dissolve the sugar) to reach 11-12% wine.  HOWEVER, as someone who brews in remote regions of the world, I prefer to take a packet of yeast and use a tiny pinch per batch (instead of the entire packet) and use a strain that I am confident in, as opposed to using wild yeasts or baking yeast.  I've done both and can confirm from testing that the result is much more enjoyable with commerical wine yeast.  Good information can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/160358286X&quot;&gt;The Art of Fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;which is all about traditional forms of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6394" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T12:28:40.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11588" CreationDate="2014-02-03T17:10:12.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the simplest level, cold crashing is about reducing any exothermic heat from yeast metabolism, since this causes convection and interferes with the sedimentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold crashing temperatures can (and should) be a good deal cooler than serving temps. Despite what is common practice, most, if not all beer, be served above ice-cold temperatures to properly convey the flavor and nuances the brewer has worked hard to produce. So, assuming the correct serving temperature, Ales served at cellar temps of 10&amp;deg;C/50&amp;deg;F may still have some yeast activity which prevents effective sedimentation, so temperatures close to freezing are used to cold crash to be sure there is no fermentation activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T17:10:12.473" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11575" CreationDate="2014-02-03T17:54:58.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always add water to make up the volume. Just be sure the water is sanitized, like boiled and cooled.  Boiling is best because it also removes air/oxygen from the water too which slows the staling of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, adding water will dilute the current flavor, aroma and bitterness profile. If you are OK with that in order to get a full 5 gallons so be it.  To me its not worth it.  Just bottle what you have and be more careful about volumes on the next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T17:54:58.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11574" CreationDate="2014-02-03T17:58:48.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think its really necessary to store beer before bottling.  When the beer is done (another topic all together) its usually ready to go into the packaging phase.  If you are observing best practices already with fermentation and the like store it to wait for something mysterious to happen isn't necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, a week in storage isn't going to completely clear a Wit beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T17:58:48.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11584" CreationDate="2014-02-03T18:03:33.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use plastic 1/2 gal. tubs to store yeast.  They have snap on lids that will pop off of there's too much pressure.  Remember that even in the fridge the yeast will continue to slowly ferment any food remaining and build up pressure.  Whatever container you use, don't seal it tightly.  And be sure to keep the yeast slurry covered with either beer or boiled and cooled distilled water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T18:03:33.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11573" CreationDate="2014-02-03T19:24:53.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried honey once in a 5 gallon batch of blonde ale. it was recommended that I put it in 3 mins before flame out and used 1 pound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My results were less than amazing, so much less that I couldnt taste the honey, which was a Hawaiian variety purchased at the LHBS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told at the time that the sugars in honey are not highly fermentable so ABV will not substancially increase. I ended up with the usual 5.1% or so if memory serves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This summer I am going to try the method Wyrmwood suggested above, adding honey to 170F water and then adding that to primary, maybe after a week or so, and increase from 1 pound to 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Question and nice complete Answer Wyrmwood!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T19:24:53.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11588" CreationDate="2014-02-03T19:27:15.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are several reasons why cold crashing works, but they all come down to affecting various parts of the equation for drag (in other words, gravity is doing all of the work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, cold promotes early flocculation of yeast. Yeast clump together and form flocs as a survival reaction to adverse environmental conditions, with cold being one of those conditions. These flocs are larger than single yeast cells, therefore experiencing more drag in the beer, and sinking to the bottom.  Of course, this does not work as well with non- or low-flocculant strains of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second reason has to do with the slightly greater density of the beer at cold crashing temps. This promotes drag on suspended particles, and allows gravity to act on them, and cause them to settle. I am guessing that most of the particles that settle in this manner (besides floccing yeast) are larger, such as break material and hop debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third reason is that beer is a colloidal substance (a mixture of substances that do not dissolve well with each other). Chill haze is a visible demonstration of this. Cold crashing helps foster reactions between proteins in the beer and tannins/polyphenols that cause chill haze. While chill haze is usually undesirable, having it early in the process allows it to settle out to the bottom of the fermenter, I have read. Because the particles that cause chill haze are on the 0.10 micron scale, I doubt that this is a significant effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: typo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T05:06:43.450" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T05:06:43.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2180" CreationDate="2014-02-03T19:33:36.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im a few years late to this party, but I like the answer about fruity ales. I love my blonde ale served at about 40-45. I have to make sure I have at least 1 backup keg ready if my friends are coming over otherwise I run out in a hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T19:33:36.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11599" CreationDate="2014-02-03T23:29:59.720" Score="2" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this stage of my brewing experience I brew boxed recipes from my local HB store. My sister is getting married and I wanted to brew for the reception. I plan to brew 2 double batches from recipes I have had good luck with in the past. To make it easier, save time and be more consistent; I planned to just buy 2 boxes of each and go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to worry about any &quot;Gotchas?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T13:45:07.333" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T13:45:07.333" Title="Doubling Extract Recipe" Tags="|extract-brewing|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11598" CreationDate="2014-02-03T23:49:17.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, at this level everything scales pretty linearly; double up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T23:49:17.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-04T00:23:37.137" Score="2" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give me a time recommendation on how long I should allow a yeast starter sit on the stir plate for before pitching?  I usually make it the night before (about 18 hours prior to pitching) but am wondering if it should go for 24 hours + ideally? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6399" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T18:54:17.233" Title="Yeast starter timing question" Tags="|yeast|pitching|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11604" CreationDate="2014-02-04T01:57:15.910" Score="2" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my very first batch almost 4 weeks ago. I currently have my beer in a secondary fermenter (glass carboy) and plan on bottling in a couple days. I dry hopped it late last week. Today I got home from work and noticed that my hop bag had floated to the top (initially it sank and this is the first I've seen it since I dry hopped it). I had a large bucket of star san with my aeration wand about 75% submerged. i.e., 25% of the wand was above the water line and thus not sanitized. The star san is only about a week old. I took off the carboy stopper and used the wand in an effort to push it down to see if I could get it to stay at the bottom (I know, really dumb idea). After realizing quickly that this wasn't going to work, I pulled the wand out and dropped it back in the bucket. Once I did this I saw that there was liquid on the wand above the water line. Meaning, I realized that I dipped the wand just a little bit too far into my beer. Roughly 1/2 an inch of the non-sanitized part of the wand must have been in the beer for maybe 10 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I just turn my first brew into vinegar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6400" LastEditorUserId="6400" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T03:34:02.757" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T13:54:35.453" Title="Did I just contaminate my beer?" Tags="|contamination|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11601" CreationDate="2014-02-04T02:27:10.067" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely not.  Don't worry about it.  Sanitized marbles or stainless steel weights can be used to weigh down a dry-hop bag. Or, don't worry about it too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T02:27:10.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11600" CreationDate="2014-02-04T04:02:23.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt you'll notice a huge difference. In principle there might be a slightly higher cell count after 24 hours, since the aditional 6 hours gives time for an additional budding, but at that point the limiting factor isn't time, but how much material is in the wort for producing new cells. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is assuming you pitched 50-100 bn cells of viable yeast (e.g. a whitelabs vial). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the yeast are not so viable, e.g. you pitched only 5 bn viable yeast cells, then you may need more than 24 hours - since there was only time to have budded just 3-4 times, giving ca. 40-80 bn cells. In this case 36 or 48 hours would be better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T16:33:13.370" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T16:33:13.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11601" CreationDate="2014-02-04T05:41:35.647" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer is quite a harsh environment for bacterial contaminants. It's quite acidic pH &amp;lt;= 4.5, and of course alcoholic. So you have to dump a lot of bacteria in there to make a difference at this stage. A clean bottling wand with smooth sides harbours little bacteria. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For peace of mind next time, you can sanitize the whole wand - just turn the wand around to sanitize the top part. The already sanitized part will stay sanitary for several minutes. In fact starsan is effective just with brief contact and then a 30-60s wait - no need for continued submersion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T14:34:15.273" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T14:34:15.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11574" CreationDate="2014-02-04T06:57:19.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right - normally you'd store it cold so it can drop clear before packaging. With a wheat beer you don't want or need to do that, or at least not to the same extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in a wheat beer the haziness comes from both the suspended yeast and the protein in the wheat malt. It takes a long time for the protein to drop out - several weeks, and at least a week for the yeast since it is non-flocculant (one a reason wheat beer has evolved as a style with the yeast in - mit-hefe.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would leave the beer to let the heavier parts of the trub drop out (any large clumps of yeast, flour, hop particles etc), and then package after a day or two while the proteins and yeast are still in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T06:57:19.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11588" CreationDate="2014-02-04T07:35:59.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold Crashing clarifies cider by causing the yeast to clump together, or &quot;flocculate.&quot; These clumps of yeast then fall out of suspension much faster than individual cells (due to some fluid dynamics that I won't pretend to understand). Flocculation depends on many factors, chief among them, yeast strain, but temperature plays a major factor. For the majority of yeasts, a decrease in temperature induces flocculation, although the ideal temperature for flocculation depends on the strain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, aging beer at cold temperatures also causes proteins to bond to polyphenols/tannins and form a &quot;chill haze,&quot; which precipitates readily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're curious, other factors that can affect flocculation include pH, calcium concentration, ethanol concentration, as well as presence of certain &quot;inhibiting&quot; sugars (glucose, mannose, maltose, and others). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6385" LastEditorUserId="6385" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T19:10:33.963" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T19:10:33.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11609" CreationDate="2014-02-04T12:00:01.437" Score="3" ViewCount="1828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read a number of sources that recommend the use of potassium metabisulphite or potassium-based campden tablets in preference to their sodium-based equivalents (e.g. Jack Keller states that &lt;a href=&quot;http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/starting.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;he doesn't recommend the use of sodium metabisulphite here&lt;/a&gt;), but I have been unable to find a clear explanation of why this is.  And it seems that most American recipes that specifically call for one or the other suggest potassium.  But here in the UK, it is by far easier to acquire sodium-based sulphites. As far as I can see, they are very similar and produce almost identical reactions in the wine, so is there any reason I should take the extra effort to acquire potassium-based sulphites?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6342" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T13:33:08.090" Title="Why is potassium metabisulphite preferred to sodium by some sources?" Tags="|wine|additives|campden|potassium-meta-bisulfite|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11460" CreationDate="2014-02-04T12:52:26.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as squeezing the bag vs. allowing it to drip, I believe it's question of the tannins in the grain giving some unexpected flavors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the batches I've made I have steeped the grains for the maximum time, at the recommended temperature in the recipe, resulting in a darker beer then shows in the literature.  I'm sure this changes flavor to some point, but so far not to a negative point IMO.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T12:52:26.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11607" CreationDate="2014-02-04T13:33:08.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Primarily its a subject of dietary preference to avoid additional sodium in the diet.  However, its a moot point because generally a very small amount of sodium would be being added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also potassium has a somewhat higher flavor threshold than sodium.  Meaning sodium begins to taste saltier sooner than potassium.  (at least this is the case on my palate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, the dissolution of the potassium salt is slightly faster than the sodium salt, leading to an almost trivial increase in potency of the potassium v. the sodium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just pointing out the differences.  I wouldn't shy away from either form based on what was available to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T13:33:08.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11601" CreationDate="2014-02-04T13:37:20.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you contaminate the beer?  By definition- absolutely.  Starsans is a sanitizer not a sterilizer.  So its likely something got transferred in theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it likely to be significant and cause an issue- &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;absolutely not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer will not turn to vinegar. Or anything else for that matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T13:37:20.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11600" CreationDate="2014-02-04T13:40:24.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without careful monitoring of your true viable cell count at the time of pitching, its impossible to know exactly when the cell growth will max out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said there isn't likely any real difference between 18 and 24hrs in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Ales I routinely go 18-36 hours and I pitch the whole thing. (I use a stir plate too BTW)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Lagers I usually go 24-48 hours, then cold crash for 24 hours, decant 80-90% of the spent wort, pitch the slurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T13:40:24.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11588" CreationDate="2014-02-04T13:47:46.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature at its core is a measurement of particle velocity.  The colder something gets the slower the particles and atoms are moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cold crash you are slowing down the nano-scopic movement of all these particles (macro and otherwise).  The less they collide with each other and the slower the move, the more effective gravity is at pulling them towards the bottom of the vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T13:47:46.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11622" CreationDate="2014-02-04T15:29:07.127" Score="8" ViewCount="3005" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a recent experiment, I wanted to try something that was unconventional for most homebrewers, and is widely considered to be clown-crap crazy.  I wanted to ferment a beer topless, without a lid.  I settled on ten gallons of a Belgian Dubbel, split into two batches, one went into a better bottle with bung and airlock, the other half in a bucket without a lid for the first ~48-72 hours.  For those who haven't tried this, I'd highly recommend it at least once, as it is amazing, being able to look into the beer closet/fridge and seeing the yeast snap, crackle, and pop while you look down on it during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to space constraints in the keezer, I could only get one of the two on tap at a time, so I opted for the closed fermentation half first, during which time I cold crashed the other half in the lagering fridge.  The closed fermentation tasted very similar to what I would expect for a commercial Dubbel;  subdued yeast character, dark fruit, a little clove, hardly any banana, quite malty, a very calm, typical Belgian ale.  I just kegged off and drew a sample of the topless fermentation half, and the best way of describing it is: Woah!  Completely different flavor and aroma.  I get a very profound banana flavor, some clove, some dark fruit, all of it overpowers any malt flavor.  It's almost undesirable, it's so intense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the scientific explanation behind open fermentation leading to more ester formation during fermentation?  I assume it has something to do with the CO2 pressure blanket over the wort, so I wonder if similar results can be seen if using a carboy with a more confined hole in lieu of a wide open a bucket.  Can anyone explain this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T17:22:00.103" Title="What is the scientific explanation behind open fermentation leading to increased esters and yeast flavor &amp; aroma?" Tags="|open-fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11613" CreationDate="2014-02-04T16:19:21.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is sort of hidden in the inverse of your question:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Closed fermentation leads to decreased ester production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does this through increase pressure in the vessel.&#xA;It has been well documented that increased pressure slows fermentation and yeast growth to some extent; both of which also suppress ester production to varying degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This pressure is caused either by an increase in pressure formation in the head of a fermentor or by hydrostatic pressure of a really tall water column pushing down on the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydrostatic pressure reducing esters is why many commercial brewers ferment at higher temps than we homebrewers do with the same yeast strains.  The tall conicals tend to slow yeast performance more than smaller tanks do (open or otherwise), leading commercial fermentation in the 72F range where a homebrewer may ferment the same wort with the same yeast at 65 to get the same flavor profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydrostatic pressure though normally isn't an issue in 5, 10 or 15 gallon batches. The &quot;water column&quot; is just to small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, relieving the head pressure in two identical fermentors can be significant as you witnessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I have never seen any literature that actually spells out the biochemical mechanism by which this works.  Its just been documented that head pressure does suppress ester formation. I have had this convo with a handful of pro brewers, and had to scale back fermentation temps sometimes when trying to replicate a beer using a recipe from a commercial brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T16:19:21.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11613" CreationDate="2014-02-04T16:23:11.587" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im no scientist, but I can tell you that there are wild yeast amongst us! I am reading up on making wild yeast breads and it is quite interesting. I assume that it has more to do with the yeast and less to do with pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What a great experiment for sure. I think I will try it and use bottles for a more direct and immediate side by side comparison that I can perform numerous times and with different groups of friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T16:23:11.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11354" CreationDate="2014-02-04T16:25:42.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suspect adding all that pulp only you'll get hazy beer from all the fruit tannins.  And those tannins may lead to a weird astringency depending on the type of fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to experiment, I'd add it in secondary.  Adding it at boils end would certainly generate pectin haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might not hurt to run some sanitizer through the juicer first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T16:25:42.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11600" CreationDate="2014-02-04T18:54:17.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just reading about starters, and for the life of me cannot remember where I read this, but if memory serves correctly, I read that the poster liked to pitch his starter between 12 and 24 hours, before the activity subsided. (Paraphrasing) The poster was willing to give up a bit of the yeast count for pitching while the yeast was still active. Otherwise, if you wait until it the starter subsides, the yeast has to be roused again. I'll try and see if I can recall where I read that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T18:54:17.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11601" CreationDate="2014-02-04T19:00:01.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other posters. For future reference, the star san data sheet recommends two minutes, but any contact is beneficial. Also, you can take the wand apart and clean it first to avoid any buildup in the spring mechanism. A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/liquid-tube-brush.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;line cleaning brush&lt;/a&gt; will also help take any clinging debris out of the wand (and tubing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T19:00:01.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11640" CreationDate="2014-02-04T19:05:37.777" Score="3" ViewCount="4103" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;I got an annoyance issue here. I have a Cornelius keg 19lt and 15-16 liter batch of Wit-beer almost ready to go, but poorly timed.&lt;p&gt;Issue is I currently don't have the CO2 regulator or Tank. Reason for this is currently I &lt;em&gt;shouldn't really&lt;/em&gt; be dropping money to get it within the near future (2 months) and due to other commitments I can't &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; be spending time bottling either over the same period.&lt;p&gt; I'd like to just dump the whole lot in a keg.&#xA;Ideally I would like to purge the keg with CO2 before adding the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will 15ltr of beer in 19ltr tank have too much oxygen in the headspace, and spoil?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I prime and pull pin periodically could I successfully force out the oxygen from the headspace and force carb later if required, when I get some gas?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shall I store my wit-beer in a fridge for 2 months and then stir all the sediment back in, when I get some gas?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shall I just bottle the damn thing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T14:52:38.583" Title="Kegging but without CO2 tank" Tags="|bottling|storage|co2|corny-keg|headspace|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11620" CreationDate="2014-02-04T19:31:08.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not ideal, but it'll probably be fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gasses mix, so you'll force a mix of oxygen and CO₂ out from the headspace. That will reduce the amount of oxygen, but won't eliminate it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could work, without the &quot;stir all sediment&quot; bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could do, of course. :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can certainly prime a keg. I'd probably over-prime a bit since the keg can take it, and you can certainly purge some pressure off.  You could even dispense that way with the residual/headspace pressure … for a little while, anways.  Maybe by that point, you'll have CO₂ to top up the headspace pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T19:38:15.710" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T19:38:15.710" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11613" CreationDate="2014-02-04T21:52:19.850" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're asking is called the Pasteur Effect: the effect of oxygen on yeast fermentation. Pressure's not a factor. Oxygen is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, a word about esters. An ester is formed when a molecule of organic acid reacts with a molecule of alcohol. It's a pretty simple reaction and can occur somewhat at room temperature or even below. the smell and taste of the ester are determined by which acid and which alcohol react. That banana smell is isoamyl acetate. Methyl butyrate smells like pineapple. (I'm a retired chemist, so forgive me. Old habits die hard.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, as for the Pasteur effect: Yeast are facultative anaerobes, meaning they can survive either with or without oxygen by using different metabolic pathways. In the presence of air (aerobic fermentation), the abundant oxygen will favor the pathway that produces organic acids, some of which go on to form esters with any alcohol present (and there will always be some). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With no oxygen (anaerobic fermentation), the yeast will use another metabolic pathway that produces mostly alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, all commercial potable alcohol is produced anaerobically. There are some cultures that use aerobic fermentation, but that's is super-primitive technology. Vinegar manufacture uses aerobic fermentation, but I don't think they use the same kind of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6405" LastEditorUserId="6405" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T22:06:23.643" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T22:06:23.643" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2014-02-04T23:38:45.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally like The Mad Fermentationist &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/&lt;/a&gt; . He has allot of great resources on sour ales and is very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.westcoastbrewer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.westcoastbrewer.com/&lt;/a&gt; - Homebrewing Blog&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewingdeal.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://homebrewingdeal.com/&lt;/a&gt; - Homebrewing Deals&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6399" LastEditorUserId="6399" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T21:15:30.323" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T21:15:30.323" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-04T23:38:45.590" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11067" CreationDate="2014-02-04T23:50:29.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used this product as of yet, so I can not give it a true recommendation but I remember looking into it a little while back to potentially use in a kriek style ale and it may work for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cascade tart cherry candi syrup &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/products/cascade-beer-candi-syrup-morebeer-tart-cherry.html?a_aid=Brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://morebeer.com/products/cascade-beer-candi-syrup-morebeer-tart-cherry.html?a_aid=Brewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6399" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T23:50:29.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2014-02-05T01:53:51.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I print on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0009JQ2JA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Avery 5408 labels&lt;/a&gt;, which fit on bottle caps nicely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do label design in Photoshop Elements 2.0 (which is the &quot;lite&quot; Photoshop from like 2002, but later versions probably work also). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make circular text that goes around the perimeter of the label in Photoshop Elements: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make a square blank canvas, about 1000x1000;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put a line of text -- I do my name, brew name, bottling date -- about 10% of the way from the top, adjusting the font size so that it goes almost all the way across, with a dash or dot separator at the end;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;run Filter-&gt;Distort-&gt;Polar Coordinates. That makes the text into a&#xA;circle, and it will be about a quarter of the canvas size. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add&#xA;a logo in the middle (I just use my initial in a &quot;cool&quot; font and in a&#xA;different color for each brew so I can more quickly tell them apart&#xA;in the fridge).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copy image to the clipboard. Download &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.avery.com/avery/en_us/Templates-&amp;amp;-Software/Templates/Labels/Round-Labels/Round-Label-24-per-4x6-sheet-5408_Microsoft-Word.htm?N=4294963707%204294965712%204294965751&amp;amp;refchannel=17aa3ae5c1b72210VgnVCM1000002118140aRCRD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Avery 5408 template&lt;/a&gt;. Paste in logo repeatedly. Print, and stick on bottle caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6408" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T01:53:51.383" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-05T01:53:51.383" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11628" CreationDate="2014-02-05T05:11:35.200" Score="1" ViewCount="1044" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have around 4 boxes of 24oz's and 4 boxes of 12oz's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started brewing roughly 8 months ago and have purchased these bottles over the 8 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I open the bottles to pour a brew, I've had them occasionally break in the past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've noticed that this particular batch I must have broke 6 out of 24 12oz bottles when I opened them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glass from the top of the 12oz just splinters everywhere (luckily it never gets in the brew).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this common or am I doing something wrong?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T04:07:26.137" Title="My Bottles are Breaking :(" Tags="|bottles|bottle|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11627" CreationDate="2014-02-05T05:24:54.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're doing something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've broken exactly one 22 oz bottle in 10 years of homebrewing, probably due to overcarbonation, not opening mechanical stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, if I broke glass &lt;em&gt;anywhere&lt;/em&gt; near liquid, I would toss it all categorically. I can not fathom how you think opening a 12oz bottle of beer that splinters &quot;everywhere&quot; does not get &quot;in the brew&quot;. &lt;em&gt;shudder&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T05:24:54.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11620" CreationDate="2014-02-05T06:26:56.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, none if this is ideal, but I guess you knew that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving on the yeast cake for 2 months is clearly not an option, so really the only other option is to rack, and your keg is probably the best alternative you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over-priming (say with 300-400g of sugar) will mean you can try to expel some of the air and renewed activity of the yeast will help to some degree deter oxidation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would store the beer at around 64&amp;deg;F/18&amp;deg;C for a 5 days or until you find CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; escaping from the relief valve when pulled. Then move to somewhere very cold - ideally under 42&amp;deg;F which will slow the rate of oxidation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T06:26:56.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11627" CreationDate="2014-02-05T13:46:37.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are not capping twist-off-lid bottles are you???&lt;p&gt;&#xA;If you are using an old style &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewmanual.com/media/cap-bottles.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hammer Capper&lt;/a&gt; for your caps it could maybe damage your glass if your bit too heavy handed. Buy/try a lever capper.&lt;br&gt; Have you tried using a different bottle opener &lt;strong&gt;style&lt;/strong&gt;. I had experience of bar that chipped the majority of the glass bottle from a wall mounted opener, I soon went else where.&lt;br&gt;You could try slightly opening the cap one side for a hiss, then using the opener on the other side to remove the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T21:22:26.483" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T21:22:26.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11601" CreationDate="2014-02-05T13:54:35.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a new brewer, but long time wine maker so, I am comfortable with sanitizing equipment. I have always use Potassium Metabisulfate  (K-Meta), for this task.  Prior to any bottling, etc., I take an extra brew bucket and pour about a quart or so of K-Meta in the bottom adding all the utensils, measuring cups and what not to the bucket, rinsing them with the K-Meta first.  The bucket is lightly sealed and  allowed to sit for 1/2 hour prior to using any utensil.  BTW, the solution is mixed 1 TSP of powdered K-Meta to 1 gallon of water.  The sulfite gas is what sanitizes the utensils, if something is going to be reused in that session, it gets rinsed and back into the bucket.  I have never seen any issue using K-Meta with brewing for santizing. HTH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T13:54:35.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11634" CreationDate="2014-01-27T15:07:22.197" Score="6" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering about using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dogfish.com/company/tangents/randall-the-enamel-animal.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Randall the Enamel Animal&lt;/a&gt; to experiment with flavor combinations before mixing up a whole batch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PPu4x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, obviously the flavor of hops comes out nicely with one of these, but what other ingredients are going to work as well?  Can I experiment with things like roasted nuts, coco nibs, etc using a Randall or won't the flavors come through?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that the most effective ingredients will be those that have water soluble flavor compounds (I believe most herbs fall into this category).  It would make sense that fat soluble compounds (cardamon, most spices, etc) would not work well.  I'm not sure about alcohol soluble things (tomatoes, peppers, etc)..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" OwnerDisplayName="doub1ejack" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T15:33:48.657" Title="What ingredients would be most appropriate to prototype new flavors in a Randall?" Tags="|flavor|recipe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11632" CreationDate="2014-02-01T20:22:24.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fresh hops is the obvious answer, but I have seen Randals used with coffee beans where stouts are run through them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Brother Hawkins" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T20:22:24.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11632" CreationDate="2014-02-01T21:15:55.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, you can do anything that's small enough to fit in there but large enough not to sift into the beer (eg, coffee beans but not ground coffee, whole hops but not hop pellets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some suggestions I've found that people have reported working well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alexandra-guarnaschelli/candied-bacon-recipe.html&quot;&gt;Candied Bacon&lt;/a&gt; Bits (with a strong porter or stout).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Peaches (with a blonde beer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coffee Beans (with a stout or porter, of course)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pineapple chunks (with an IPA or 2xIPA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vanilla Beans (with a stout)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some suggestions off the top of my head (that may be great or terrible):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sour patch kids (with a gueuze)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot peppers (with a red or amber)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pear slices (with a pale or blonde)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watermelon chunks (with a wheat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tea leaves (with something light like a pilsner or saison)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" OwnerDisplayName="Fishtoaster" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T21:15:55.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-05T16:26:42.953" Score="6" ViewCount="9314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to grow hops in Rajasthan (India).  How do I get seeds for hops in India?  Are there any companies in India that can provide me with what's necessary to grow my own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6415" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T17:32:21.923" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T06:38:25.040" Title="what types of hops can be grown in india ( in rajasthan sami arid zone)" Tags="|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11635" CreationDate="2014-02-05T17:12:36.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops don't grow from seeds...they grow from rhizomes.  I recommend you talk to Hop Union about getting rhizomes.  The closer you are to the 45th parallel, the better they will grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T17:12:36.567" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11635" CreationDate="2014-02-05T17:41:14.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without much knowledge of the area, I'm going to suspect that your area's soil is going to be a very harsh, nutrient deprived environment to try and grow hops in.  You may want to look into growing hops through hydroponics.  I hear it isn't the easiest thing to pull off, as hops require a lot of nutrients, but there have been about as many success stories as there have been failures.  One thing is for certain, you likely have all the sun they'll ever need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T17:41:14.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11627" CreationDate="2014-02-05T21:03:36.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be adding too much priming sugar, and the extra pressure from the gas can weaken the glass, or cause it to crack in place. When you open the bottle, it releases the pressure and allows the pieces to separate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6344" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T21:03:36.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="43" CreationDate="2014-02-05T21:10:42.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also substitute up to 20% of the malt bill with table sugar without having a huge impact on the finished product. It will reduce the maltiness but otherwise pretty much dries right out. The whole &quot;it tastes like cider&quot; seems be a myth. YMMV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T21:10:42.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11620" CreationDate="2014-02-05T21:18:46.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't pin it. This is a cask practice, but not necessary in your corny keg and will reduce the carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, you can prime it (fully sealed), wait 14 days, put it in the fridge and tap it in a few hours; the pressure built up during priming will let it flow, at least for a gallon or two. After which, if you can't put CO2 on it, prime it again and put it at room temp. That should buy you a few weeks :0) It will, of course, add a small boost to your ABV each time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought a keg to my neighbors and tapped it straight from priming. It sat in my garage on a cold afternoon and we drank off of it for several hours before I had to go top it up with CO2. Needless to say, we nearly finished it :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T21:18:46.207" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11646" CreationDate="2014-02-05T21:49:04.297" Score="1" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about adding agave nectar to my wort as an adjunct sugar, with the intent to add some tequila-like flavor. Does anyone have any experience with brewing with agave nectar and the flavors and characteristics it lends to the finished beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6344" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T16:14:31.720" Title="What characteristics would agave nectar add to a wort?" Tags="|flavor|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11635" CreationDate="2014-02-05T23:03:03.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops grow from Rhizomes, essentially a stick/root that you put in the ground.  Make sure you  a string stretching 20 feet for the bines to grow up on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a site that ships them internationally.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freshops.com/order/international&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.freshops.com/order/international&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some tips for growing hops&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oregonhops.org/culture2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.oregonhops.org/culture2.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T23:03:03.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11644" CreationDate="2014-02-06T04:11:43.780" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was half way through steeping my specialty grains (from an extract kit) when I realized that my four 6.5 gallon carboys were already in use and I forgot to purchase another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to let the temperature get up to 160F and pull the grains out, clean off the lid to my kettle, place it on and threw the kettle in the refrigerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on resuming my brew tomorrow, roughly 24 hours from now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this the right thing to do? I called the only people I knew to see if I could purchase a carboy off them because the stores were closed, but no carboys were available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it have been better to make the wort, add the hops, and boil for 60 minutes as usual, put it in an ice bath, then put it in the fridge, and boil it for a few minutes tomorrow before adding yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T19:19:30.290" Title="What are the Consequences of Steeping Grains, Removing Kettle, and Finish the Brew 24 hours later?" Tags="|specialty-grains|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11643" CreationDate="2014-02-06T06:38:29.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it's ok. The cool temperatures of the fridge will slow down the organisms in the mash, but ideally it should have been boiled for a few minutes to make it sterile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then boiled again prior to use (as you would anyway when adding the hops.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T06:38:29.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11643" CreationDate="2014-02-06T13:19:50.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the fridge it will be fine.  And it was only specialty grains, so there is very little sugars there and likely no conversion of what was there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done overnight mashes before and there is no issue with souring in the wort the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about it.  Just start heating it and start where you left off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And you could always ferment in your bottling bucket in a pinch)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T13:19:50.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11641" CreationDate="2014-02-06T13:23:01.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only experienced it through a brewing buddy of mine.  He used it to 5% of the total fermentables, the results were lack luster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It almost gets entirely fermented out so much of that character is lost.  And then you're only using a small percentage of it in the final product anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to get some tequila flavor is to add some at bottling.  Or soak some oak in tequila and dose it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T13:23:01.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11627" CreationDate="2014-02-06T13:27:06.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have been heat sterilizing the bottles in your oven or otherwise.  Its likely the glass has gotten brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have been re using commercial craft beer bottles those are not truly intended to be refilled and sealed.  The glass is slightly thinner than new bottle purchased from the LHBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I used to refill Sam Adams bottles all the time and never had then breaking like you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T13:27:06.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11635" CreationDate="2014-02-06T13:34:49.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any type will grow as long as the soil is well amended and you water regularly (drip would be best).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not find any listings for homebrew shops in India.  I'd suggest finding a local agricultural university or coop and see if they can help you get rhizomes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T13:34:49.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11701" CreationDate="2014-02-06T13:37:28.093" Score="3" ViewCount="2103" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pound for pound, do steel cut oats deliver the same level of mouthfeel as flaked oats?&#xA;I ask because I recently made some steel cut oats for breakfast and they seem to be much more gummy than normal flaked oats.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Would I use the same amount of steel cut as flaked?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They seemed nuttier too, but that's a different question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T22:26:51.910" Title="Steel Cut v. Flaked Oats" Tags="|mash|ingredients|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11653" CreationDate="2014-02-06T14:08:36.317" Score="6" ViewCount="2684" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really enjoy my IPA with Citra hops. I have done some minimal dry-hopping which gives me a great citrus flavor and aroma, in addition to adding cascade and citra to the boil.  I have no aversion to dry-hopping, but am still working to get my arms around all the facets of brewing and how they affect the outcome. Can you get similar results to dry-hopping by adding that additional 1 oz of Citra near the end of the boil or are we talking apples and oranges, so to speak?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a partial grain extract 5 gallon recipe &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.5 lb Belgian Aromatic Malt  15-30 Minutes @ 155F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;60 Minute Boil&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 lb Gold DME &amp;amp; 1 lb Wheat DME, 1 oz Warrior &amp;amp; 1 oz Cascade hops, boil 45 minutes,then add...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 lb Gold LME,  boil for 10 minutes, then add...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 oz Citra hops boil for 5 minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquid American Ale II Wyeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 oz Citra dry hopping 5 days prior to bottling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastEditorUserId="6095" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T00:38:00.303" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T00:38:00.303" Title="Should I add extra hops in the boil vs dry-hopping?" Tags="|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-06T14:31:38.717" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in distilling whiskey and vodka. Im not sure of what the legal ramifications are but I want to one) do it legally and two) do it economically. Is this possible and what are the average start up cost for license . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T21:37:18.523" Title="what are my legal obligations in owning a distillery" Tags="|legal|whiskey|help|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-02-08T08:03:05.320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-06T14:39:23.860" Score="1" ViewCount="386" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a good pressure to force carb a double IPA in a five gallon keg? Is it possible to over carb when force carbing? This is the my first time trying this method and don't want to over do it if that's possible . Thank you .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6255" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T16:07:41.980" Title="X2 IPA force carb pressure" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11650" CreationDate="2014-02-06T15:44:14.870" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, dry-hopping is more important for aroma than flameout additions, unless you either go overboard with your flameout quantities or you do a hopstand.  You may get a very slight bit more flavor out of a flameout addition, but my palette can't detect the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During fermentation, the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; will carry a lot of the aroma with it as it escapes the fermenting wort, thus reducing the aromatics of the beer's hop character from what it was before fermentation begins.  Especially for the Citra hop, which has a very distinctive aroma, your IPA will benefit from a good dry-hopping more than it would a flameout addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for &quot;the next steps&quot; for your IPA, here's some advanced techniques for you to try out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/03/17/the-first-wort-hop-beer-brewing-techniques/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;First Wort Hopping&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/component/k2/item/2808-hop-stands&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hop Stands&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, Citra is a very pleasant hop to use, especially for the above two advanced techniques, as it does not impart a harsh bitterness at high IBU extraction.  For my palette at least, I have yet to add too much Citra hops to an ale, so you can take comfort and likely not have to worry about overdoing it.  Without knowing your recipe, here's a few tips I could recommend for your next experiment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(If it's an all-grain recipe) move your 60 or 90 minute hop addition (whichever it is) to a first wort hopping as described in the above article.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At flameout, add your flameout hops, and separate a portion of the beer (could be a 50/50 split, or 75/25, whichever you prefer).  Chill the separated batch as normal, but let the other portion sit and do a 30 minute hop stand at high temperature, as described by the above article.  You may even consider adding another hop charge 15 minutes into the hop stand for an extra aromatic kick.  Now you have a control, and a experiment sample to draw from so you can see the difference between hop stand and no hop stand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry hop both.  If you want to go crazy, double up your dry hops, but layer them.  Add your normal amount of dry hops, then at the 3 day mark, add the second set of hops and let them both sit until day six at which point you rack to bottles or keg for consumption.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above will increase the amount of hops necessary, but as mentioned before, Citra is very forgiving if you go overboard, which I tend to with it, only to wind up grinning wider for when all is said and done.  You'll know it all paid off when you can smell it across the room!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-02-06T19:56:50.657" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T19:56:50.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11652" CreationDate="2014-02-06T16:07:41.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the temperature of the beer and how carbonated you want it.  The style and the size of the keg are meaningless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Check out this carbonation chart to help with the PSI.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to set the PSI to what the table indicates and let it go for a week or two.&#xA;If you want to go faster, you can simply crank the pressure to 20-30PSI and shake it for 5 minutes, then taste it.  Do that as many times as it takes to get the right amount of carbonation for your tastes.  However, using the shake method can certainly result in over carbed beer. But you can bleed pressure and shake again to relieve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like shaking all that much because it supposedly reduces foam stability in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T16:07:41.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11650" CreationDate="2014-02-06T16:13:59.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The differences between FO additions and dry hopping are subtle and seem to be palate/taster dependent.  I have experiment with both and it becomes a matter of personal tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is if you are planning a string of hoppy beer brewing try and use both techniques on different brews and see what you like and if it makes a difference to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made an IPA last year where I did two ounce of Falconers Flight hops at FO, but I also did an overnight &quot;no chill&quot; technique.  I then dry hopped with more falconers at kegging.  I have since tried to replicate the beer again, but using my standard chilling process.  Its been tough to get back to that original effect. Regardless of how much hop I add at flameout or dry hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T16:13:59.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11643" CreationDate="2014-02-06T19:19:30.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only issue that might come up is if it sours, but when I intentionally sour my mash (pre-boil) with a handful of raw grains, it typically takes 2 to 3 days, normally at 100F (38C) temps (but has happened once at ambient temp and no injection after about 5 days). I would imagine 24 hours is not nearly enough time at ambient temps and certainly not at fridge temps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T19:19:30.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11627" CreationDate="2014-02-06T19:26:48.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had bottles break, though mostly from over priming and they break at the base, but also from wear and tear and just defective (had one break long ways... along a line on the bottle). My first question though, is do you buy bottles empty? That might contribute to wear and tear in shipping and handling. I certainly enjoyed emptying full bottles back when I first started :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T19:26:48.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11660" CreationDate="2014-02-06T19:45:29.077" Score="1" ViewCount="981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a batch of bitter 5 weeks ago, simple recipe with 90 % pale malt and 10 % crystal. IBU is aout 30. I have brewed this beer before, and it was great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything went perfect, up until I pitched yeast. It is a long story: re-pitched yeast harvested from primary from earlier batch (WLP002), but I pitched way too little. The fermentation did not start within 48 hours, so I repitched fresh yeast. That is to say, the wort was aerated 48 hours before the &quot;real yeast&quot; was pitched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fermentation then proceeded as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 weeks later, properly carbonated and all, the beer tastes bad, or &quot;not that great&quot;. Definitely not infected. It is a strong yeasty taste (the beer is clear), with sawdust like notes, and the bitterness is very pronounced. All notes from caramel malt etc are gone. But to call it &quot;wet cardboard&quot; is a stretch, but then again, I have never tasted that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my beer oxidized?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I have noticed that the bottles have all small bubbles on the inside of the glass. Some bottles have a very, very thin film of something oily in the air/beer interface. Could it be a beginning infection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastEditorUserId="3065" LastEditDate="2014-02-06T21:20:35.167" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T21:20:35.167" Title="Is my beer oxidized?" Tags="|oxidation|repitch|pitching|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11659" CreationDate="2014-02-06T19:53:53.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly doesn't sound like it.  Oxidation can take a number of forms other than &quot;wet cardboard&quot;.  It can manifest as metallic flavors or weirdly caramel notes.  It sounds more like an infection than oxidation to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T19:53:53.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11659" CreationDate="2014-02-06T20:12:08.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From experience, and I've had a few that have defied all odds, if you take just the very basic measures to prevent oxidation in your beer (e.g. syphon it, don't pour it), it is more often than not difficult to oxidize it enough to taste it.  I've siphoned beer with plenty of bubbles visible in the hose, I'm about as graceful as a coked out beached whale when it comes to moving carboys around or a freshly filled keg (no CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; yet) to the keezer for forced carbonation, and I've even ice-condensed a barley wine which included the step of dripping off the condensed beer into a jug a foot or two below the massive ice cube, I don't think I've ever tasted the effects of oxidation, or maybe I have and just didn't know it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, unless you did something that caused you to cringe and leave little doubt that the end product is oxidized (at which point, you're probably going to psych yourself into tasting oxidation, even if there isn't any, just to verify your pessimism), it's probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T20:12:08.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11620" CreationDate="2014-02-06T20:16:19.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cheapest solution is to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rack it into a clean plastic (food grade obviously) $15 bucket. It can sit in &quot;secondary&quot; for weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy anitizer and caps while you are at LHBS getting yor bucket. they're cheap too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start rounding up bottles for free from your friends or maybe even from a friendly local bar.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bottle the batch. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Save your bottles so you can continue brewing until you can afford the CO2 setup. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T20:16:19.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-06T20:22:24.183" Score="6" ViewCount="2207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a college student brewing in my apartment and while I am pretty dirty on occasion, when it comes to brewing beer I try to be on top of it. While I have not had a bad batch thus far, but the home brew store clerk talked me into buying Star San sanitizer (my defenses are down in the home brew store).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Star San allegedly cleans and leaves nutrients for the beer, but is it worth twice the cost of regular sanitizer?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had any problems with a cheaper sanitizer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any advice. I am only on my second batch (Double IPA with motueka and mosaic hops) so any input will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6423" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T14:55:18.330" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T00:22:40.677" Title="Is Star San sanitizer worth the cost?" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|starsan|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11663" CreationDate="2014-02-06T20:28:22.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Star San is not a cleaner, only a sanitizer. But boy is it a great sanitizer; well worth the price.  30 second contact time, foams readily, no-rinse, breaks down to yeast nutrient.  Only thing I'll use or recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Hint: mix it with distilled water, and it'll last &quot;indefinitely&quot;; that sure helps the cost go down. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T13:59:50.290" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T13:59:50.290" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11651" CreationDate="2014-02-06T20:38:54.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a legal expert but here are just a few of the things you will need to worry about&#xA;1. federal and state liscencing &#xA;2. trademarking&#xA;3. land rights and water rights &#xA;Are you talking about buying a distillery or building one? because each has its own slew of problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6423" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T20:38:54.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11651" CreationDate="2014-02-06T20:57:34.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're in the US, the very first thing you should do is engage a lawyer who specializes in this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T20:57:34.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11663" CreationDate="2014-02-06T21:28:48.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that you don't actually have to submerge things in StarSan for it to be effective.  You can mix it in a spray bottle with distilled water.  It will stay good for months at least...a year isn't out if the question.  Then you can spray things rather than submersing them in a bucketful.  A 30 second contact time is 99.5% effective according to Charley Talley, a chemist at the company that makes StarSan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T21:28:48.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17767" CreationDate="2014-02-06T22:32:40.650" Score="0" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been doing mead for a few years on-and-off now, and have a few 25L batches that finished a 3 week primary and 3 week secondary ferment. There is still a tiny bit of bubbling inside, and I was going to rack it off the bentonite to a tertiary carboy to let any residual bentonite settle to the bottom again before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, when I add bentonite to the must, it only takes about an hour for a thick, cloudy 1.5&quot; layer to form at the bottom, and the rest of the must above it to become completely clear. When I raised these carboys up, they were agitated a bit, and the bentonite made the entire clear carboy cloud up. So, I left it overnight to re-settle, but it hasn't settled all, and is still cloudy. It was clear before it was hauled up to a higher height with our ratchet lifter, but the darn stuff seems intent on staying in solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to force the bentonite to re-settle at the bottom of the carboy again? It's being kept at about 68 °F right now, and isn't being physically agitated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3214" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T16:02:47.307" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:02:47.307" Title="Bentonite Haze in Mead" Tags="|mead|finings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11663" CreationDate="2014-02-07T03:55:21.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: I've been using the stuff for years and wouldn't use anything else. The no rinse is great. While you still (obviously) have to sanitize, it largely eliminates the hassle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T03:55:21.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="43" CreationDate="2014-02-07T04:04:18.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reuse your yeast: you'll save ~$2 - ~$7 depending on the type of yeast you use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a yeast starter and sanitize good. If you have to toss a batch you're wasting time and money.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not sure about Montana, but look into growing your own hops. They're easy to grow and you can eliminate that cost to some degree depending on what kinds and how much you grow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy in bulk. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long term, go all grain and buy grain in bulk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sort of counts if you're interested: brew larger batches. You can make a large starter (reducing yeast cost) and you're saving time since it is virtually the same amount of work to brew 10 gallons instead of 5.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T04:04:18.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11627" CreationDate="2014-02-07T04:07:26.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only bottles I've ever had break were from over carbonating when I first started years ago. This is likely from bottling too early and/or priming with too much sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T04:07:26.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11663" CreationDate="2014-02-07T04:54:27.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has been answered already, but I wanted to add to the testimonials! It's definitely worth the cost and lasts for months (I've never gone a year but I wouldn't be afraid to).  Having a spray bottle is very handy for the fact that it works quick and is reliable.  It may be small, but no one has touched on this yet: the customer service is excellent.  I sent an email asking a relatively specific question and I had an email back later that day that completely answered my question.  I really felt like they appreciated my business, which always make anyone feel good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T14:45:12.213" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T14:45:12.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11432" CreationDate="2014-02-07T05:06:28.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Average it!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First convert your values to Plato as specific gravity isn’t linear for mass of sugar in a volume vs gravity points. This allows you to use simple algebra to average different beers. If the two gravities are very close then not converting will mean you will be off by only a few points, but if the gravities are vastly different your calculated value will be off by quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiply your starter volume and wort volume by their original Plato gravities respectively to produce numbers that can be combined to derive an average gravity reading from the blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Divide the sum of the gravity-volume products by the sum of wort volume:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( ( &lt;em&gt;OG&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt; × &lt;em&gt;V&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt; ) + ( &lt;em&gt;OG&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; × &lt;em&gt;V&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; ) ) ÷ ( &lt;em&gt;V&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt; + &lt;em&gt;V&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; ) = &lt;em&gt;SG&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Where...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;OG&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt; is the original gravity of your starter wort in Plato.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;V&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt; is the volume of your starter wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;OG&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is the original gravity of your wort in Plato.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;V&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is the volume of your wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;SG&lt;/em&gt; is the specific gravity of the blend in Plato.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally convert back to specific gravity from Plato using an appropriate table or online calculator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;If blending more than two parts:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( ( &lt;em&gt;OG&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt; × &lt;em&gt;V&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt; ) + ( &lt;em&gt;OG&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; × &lt;em&gt;V&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; ) [ + ( &lt;em&gt;OG&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;n&lt;/sub&gt; × &lt;em&gt;V&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;n&lt;/sub&gt; ) ] ) ÷ ( &lt;em&gt;V&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt; + &lt;em&gt;V&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; [ + &lt;em&gt;V&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;n&lt;/sub&gt; ] ) = &lt;em&gt;SG&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;In this case:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( ( 1.040 × 0.25 ) + ( 1.076 × 5 ) ) ÷ ( 0.25 + 5 ) =&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( 0.26 + 5.38 ) ÷ 5.25 =&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5.64 ÷ 5.25 =&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.074 specific gravity of blended starter and wort&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kudos to @jsled and @tobias-patton for providing the clues to solve this problem.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6318" LastEditorUserId="6318" LastEditDate="2022-04-18T16:06:39.983" LastActivityDate="2022-04-18T16:06:39.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11675" CreationDate="2014-02-07T11:48:11.017" Score="2" ViewCount="5905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a spare mini fridge that can hold inside my fermenter and i was thinking instead of&#xA;spending water with my immersion chiller  to rack my wort from my kettle and place the fermenter in to the fridge.It might take longer but since the lid will be on with airlock  would it be too risky to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6241" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T21:15:27.807" Title="Chilling wort in a fridge" Tags="|chilling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11674" CreationDate="2014-02-07T12:14:20.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some brewers chill their wort overnight, using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/No_Chill_Method&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;No Chill Method&lt;/a&gt;, so in principle you could do variation of that, but use your fridge to get the wort chilled quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this to work you need to ensure 2 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wort is above 180F so that it sanitizes the container. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The container can be voided of air. The usual way is to use a squeezable cube and squeeze so the volume is reduced to that of the wort, and there is very little air left in the container when the cap is screwed shut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing this with a regular carboy or bucket may be risky because of the large headspace. It will take the fridge several hours to chill the wort to pitching temperature, during which time it is exposed to the airbourne contaminants in the headspace. How risky this is depends the environment - it may work fine for one person but not for another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest racking the hot wort to a cube first and squeezing to remove the air. Then place this in the fridge to cool. Once cooled, you can then rack (noisily) to your carboy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has a few advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The reduced amount of air greatly reduces the chances of contamination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The break material (hot and cold) will have settled, so you can rack clear wort and leave the break behind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Racking noisily to the carboy introduces oxygen - the hot wort will be devoid of oxygen after boiling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T12:14:20.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11674" CreationDate="2014-02-07T13:37:00.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of guys where I live (Florida, USA), use an immersion or counterflow chiller to get the beer down to about 80-90F (which is about as low as it will go with 70F+ groundwater), and then rack to a carboy and put in a fridge for 6-8 hours to hit pitching temps. This makes me nervous, but they seem to have good success with the plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't tell from your question if you want to remove the chiller entirely, or if you just don't want to run it endlessly. But &lt;strong&gt;its definitely not a good idea&lt;/strong&gt; to rely on a refrigerator to take a 5 gallon batch down from &lt;strong&gt;boil temps to pitching temps&lt;/strong&gt; without any extra cooling help from a chiller, ice bath, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because a carboy full of hot wort is incredibly well insulated and dense, and will take many, many hours to cool down to pitching temps. During that time, your aroma and flavor hops will continue to &quot;cook&quot; and become more bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, once the wort drops beneath about 140F, its going to be spending many, many hours inside the temperature zone thats PERFECT for bacteria before you pitch. This is a serious risk to your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using the chiller to knock the temp down lower than 100F at least, and then using an ice bath to get the carboy to pitching temps, or putting it into your fridge for 6-8 hours before pitching, tops. I do the former, and 20lbs of ice will take a carboy from 90F-ish to 65F with some swirling in about 20min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T13:37:00.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11674" CreationDate="2014-02-07T21:09:18.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have left 6 or 8 batches in the fermenter (sanitized) overnight before pitching with nary and ill affect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I do is capture about 8oz of wort and put it in a sanitized mason jar, put the rest in my plastic bucket with an airlock and set it down over night. in the morning, I pitch the yeast in the jar, give it an hour or so to get wet, then pour the whole jar through the stopper hole in the bucket lid and put the stopper back in.&#xA;Its that simple. And sometimes I thik I have over thought that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS I should mention that I usually do a partial boil and add 2 gallons of refrigerated water to start the cooling process&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastEditorUserId="6263" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T21:15:27.807" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T21:15:27.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11651" CreationDate="2014-02-07T21:37:18.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get an agent and talk to the folks at TLC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T21:37:18.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11684" CreationDate="2014-02-08T00:19:31.600" Score="1" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mistakenly added 5 oz of Chocolate Extract at the beginning of secondary instead of the day before bottling.  Still smells ok, when I did some quick checks, but wondering if anyone else has made this mistake and what the results were.  This is a Chocolate Milk Stout.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6401" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T04:51:35.123" Title="What problem could happen adding chocolate flavor at the beginning of secondary?" Tags="|extract|secondary|stout|flavoring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11663" CreationDate="2014-02-08T00:22:40.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was in college and could not afford anything other than bleach for sanitizing, but 1/2 of my beers had some sort of problem with them.  The problem with bleach or anything you have to rinse off, is that you have to rinse, and rinse, and rinse, and then rinse again.  Definitely think StarSan is worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6401" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T00:22:40.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11687" CreationDate="2014-02-08T01:33:21.540" Score="6" ViewCount="3362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a budding vegan in the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even after reusing yeast for brewing I send a lot of yeast to the compost bin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone out there used the yeast as a nutritional supplement?  If so, could any of you share a recipe or a link?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6132" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T00:37:53.720" Title="Can I reuse brewing yeast as a nutritional yeast?" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11682" CreationDate="2014-02-08T03:44:38.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two different mashed potato recipes that I love.  One includes bacon and steamed shredded cabbage (obviously out of the question here), the other is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ziplist.com/recipes/745411-Stone_IPA_Garlicky_Mashed_Potatoes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stone's IPA garlicky mashed potatos&lt;/a&gt;, which calls for 1/4 tsp of brewer's yeast.  As a personal suggestion, unless someone has an aversion to the potato skins, I prefer to leave them 100% on for texture purposes.  Also don't be afraid to mix up the potatoes for variety.  I like to go 50:50 yukon gold and red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, unless the recipe is a very starch-driven, be careful using the leftover yeast cake from an IPA, as it will no doubt have a very bitter kick to it, which will not reduce well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T03:44:38.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11679" CreationDate="2014-02-08T04:51:35.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're perfectly fine.  If the extract has sugar in it, it means it will ferment out, which is safer to do during secondary than at bottling anyways.  If not, it just means it will have more time to naturally mix in to the beer during secondary, as opposed to having to stir it in at bottling time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any sugarless extract addition, you should be able to add it at whatever time (after primary fermentation has completed).  The biggest advantage to doing it earlier as opposed to later is to allow it to naturally mix as opposed to having to stir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T04:51:35.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11686" CreationDate="2014-02-08T10:26:24.980" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason why you can't use the same sample for all your gravity readings rather than taking a fresh sample each time? The idea being to take an initial reading and then keep this sample separate from the main brew and use this sample purely for gravity checks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3682" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T11:00:09.050" Title="Use the same sample for gravity readings" Tags="|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11685" CreationDate="2014-02-08T11:00:09.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess you're assuming the sample will continue to ferment with suspended yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's quite a few reasons why this can fail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the sample may not be at the same temperature as the beer (both due to it's location plus it lacks the exothermic heat produced from the large volume of yeast in the main ferment.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the sample may become contaminated and ferment with the help of contaminants (bacteria/wild yeast) resulting in a lower gravity than the main brew&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the sample may not contain as much yeast as in the main brew, so ferments at a different rate&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the sample may evaporate quicker (if uncovered and without an airlock)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T11:00:09.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11682" CreationDate="2014-02-08T15:44:43.293" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is yes, it's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nutritional_yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;same species of yeast&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_cerevisiae&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saccharomyces cerevisiae&lt;/a&gt;, so you can do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer is, you will have a hard time getting it to taste the same as commercially produced nutritional yeast (a.k.a. nooch). Just as there are dozens of different strains of homebrew yeast, selectively bred for different characteristics, there are also strains of yeast bred just for making nooch. These are all the same species of yeast, as are those used in baking, but you won't get a Belgian dubbel if you use English ale yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question from the cooking SE site has some info on preparation: &lt;a href=&quot;https://cooking.stackexchange.com/questions/34558/how-can-i-make-nutritional-yeast&quot;&gt;https://cooking.stackexchange.com/questions/34558/how-can-i-make-nutritional-yeast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lesaffre makes Red Star, one of the more popular brands, they give an overview of the steps also: &lt;a href=&quot;http://lesaffre-yeast.com/five-steps.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://lesaffre-yeast.com/five-steps.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inevitably it will involve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heating it (boiling) to pasteurize and kill the yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooling and washing it, to rinse off the wort, hops, trub, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thoroughly spreading it out to dry it in a thin layer in a dehydrator or maybe oven on low temp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even with washing, you may still have flavors from the malts used and bitterness from the hops. This post on making homemade Marmite mentions this issue when using yeast from a brewery: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.msmarmitelover.com/2011/04/how-to-make-your-own-marmite.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.msmarmitelover.com/2011/04/how-to-make-your-own-marmite.html&lt;/a&gt; So it might end up being too bitter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial nooch is usually fed on a diet of glucose. Even that pure commercial stuff can have a bitter twang when used in large quantities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homemade nooch also won't be fortified in the same way. Wort has a lot of nutrients in it, so it will certainly have vitamins, but the commercial stuff is fortified with various vitamins and minerals. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.bobsredmill.com/recipes/nutritional-yeast-demystified/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://blog.bobsredmill.com/recipes/nutritional-yeast-demystified/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, it will be a fair amount of work, so you'll have to decide if it's worth it. But it would certainly be interesting to try it and compare the results of yeast grown in different styles of beer. But I think you'll probably just want to buy it in bulk from a reputable source so you know you're getting a product with a reliable flavor and nutritional profile. Or else risk some bitter vegan mac n cheese :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:33:38.137" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T00:37:53.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2014-02-08T16:18:22.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just making my first batch.  Filled the first Carboy up too much.  Used a racking tube through the bung and attached plastic siphone tube to that and ran it into sanitizer container. Working like a charm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6428" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T16:18:22.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6039" CreationDate="2014-02-08T16:36:16.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some that is about 16 years old.  I added it to a test sample of mead (the dregs that were left over after moving the must to a secondary fermenter). It clarified well and does not appear to affect the taste. I don't know how it will change with t&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6429" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T16:36:16.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2014-02-08T17:33:18.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I always use a blowoff for the first 48 hours (just in case).  Then add bubbler after things have settled down.  While your risk is minimal for infection, the critical time is between the development of the krausen and presence of alcohol.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6401" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T17:33:18.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11030" CreationDate="2014-02-09T00:00:08.243" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bakers yeast may not be alcohol tolerant, and therefore not produce the result you want.                   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6431" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T13:14:36.893" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T13:14:36.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11696" CreationDate="2014-02-09T00:52:41.023" Score="2" ViewCount="711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saved the yeast cake off my last batch, and tomorrow I'll be brewing again. The cake filled a growler, and after a week in the fridge has settled to about 2/3 yeast, 1/3 beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After siphoning off the beer, and pitching however much in the new batch, is there anything I need to do to keep the rest of the saved yeast viable, since it won't have the layer of beer on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2014-02-10T15:01:35.877" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T22:19:47.627" Title="Saving leftover saved yeast" Tags="|first-time-brewer|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11695" CreationDate="2014-02-09T02:55:25.753" Score="4" ViewCount="6354" Body="&lt;p&gt;My HBS just raised the prices of various liquid yeasts. Are there dry yeasts that are as good for IPA's? Recommendations please &amp;amp; should they be pitched dry or as a starter?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T07:50:08.540" Title="Are there dry yeasts that rival liquids for IPA's?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-02-11T19:21:29.847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11693" CreationDate="2014-02-09T03:18:26.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;US-05 (= Wyeast1056, = WLP001) is a pretty good option for IPAs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry yeast should be rehydrated, but the higher cell count generally means you don't need a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T03:18:26.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11693" CreationDate="2014-02-09T05:39:45.140" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Danstar BRY-97 is a great option for American-style IPAs. It starts out kind of rough, but if you give it enough time to condition, it makes an amazing beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentis Safale US-05 and Danstar Nottingham also a popular choices for American-style IPAs. You should ferment them at the low end of their temperature ranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For English-style IPAs, you can use Safale S-04, or Danstar Windsor Ale (I haven't used it).  You can also try to ferment at the high end of the range with US-05 (will give you some apricot-type notes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is hard to say whether any dry strain &quot;rivals&quot; a liquid strain because they have different characteristics in order to be able to be dried even if they originally come from the same source. But they &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; come from same sources as liquid yeast (e.g., WLP001, Wyeast 1056, US-05, and Bry-97 all come from the &quot;Chico&quot; strain, aka Sierra Nevada).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of a starter, it is not advisable to make a starter with dry yeast. One pack should be OK to pitch into a moderate-gravity beer. If you need a higher cell count, pitch two packs of dry yeast -- dry yeast is cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-02-10T07:50:08.540" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T07:50:08.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11692" CreationDate="2014-02-09T05:49:07.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can pour sterile, de-oxygenated water on it.  De-oxygenated water is just boiled and cooled water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T05:49:07.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11698" CreationDate="2014-02-09T07:14:29.930" Score="8" ViewCount="1712" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/8209/will-jalapeno-or-habanero-peppers-adversely-effect-yeast&quot;&gt;a previous question&lt;/a&gt; I asked when I wasn't as clinically insane as I am now.  Allow me to explain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of months ago, I came upon Stone brewery's &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/147/65997/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crime&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/147/65998/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Punishment&lt;/a&gt; beers where they aged two of their ales on the world's hottest chili peppers.  They were delicious, but disappointingly, they were underwhelming when it came to spicy heat.  I expected to cough, hiccup, and possibly even visit the ER after hearing what they put in them, but I managed to champion both beers without any issue.  What started as a disappointment quickly turned into masochism, as I've found that somehow, in some sadistic way, I have quite a tolerance for capsaicin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've heard from other homebrewers, chili heat dies off quickly in beer, so my mindset was that of &quot;go overboard, and the worst you'll have to do is let it age until the heat dies down.&quot;  With that goal in mind, I settled on an Imperial porter clocking in at 1.110 OG, using WLP090 for yeast.  I ground up a total of six ounces of dried chilies in a coffee grinder (that'll make for one hell of an April fools trick on your better, angrier, coffee drinking half by the way), including dried arbol, chipotle, and another that I've since forgotten.  I soaked this ground chili powder in bourbon and dumped them into the beer to age.  After a day, my masochistic obsession encouraged me to draw a sample, and it was painful.  Tolerable, but painful.  I was convinced I needed more, but before I made any further investments, I wanted to see what aging would do to it.  After seven days, even with the pepper powder still aging in the beer, it had lost heat.  It had a pleasant pepper flavor, but significantly less heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well that just will not do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went and purchased a quarter ounce of Trinidad Moruga Scorpion chilies off of Amazon just now.  I want this to burn.  I want to be able (or not for that matter) to drink this and regret every sip.  I want absolute pain and agony because Stone brewery couldn't deliver.  I want to feel spicy pain, and the Trinidad Moruga Scorpion is sure to deliver, being the hottest known pepper in existence, clocking in at up to two million scoville units (for reference, habaneros are anywhere between 100k - 350k).  I will no doubt regret my bravery, but I have a pass considering my admitted level of insanity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this ridiculous amount of capsaicin in the beer adversely effect the yeast in any way?  I do plan to bottle condition this beer versus kegging it as I normally would (goodbye bottling bucket).  While this masochistic exercise in pain is a colorful one, I'd at least like to make sure the yeast survives the beating to bottle condition the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T23:53:16.473" Title="Can enough capsaicin adversely effect yeast?" Tags="|chili|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11697" CreationDate="2014-02-09T10:17:51.770" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://feql.wsu.edu/msds/8-Methyl-N-Vanillyn-6-Nonenamide.pdf&quot;&gt;MSDS sheet&lt;/a&gt; lists Capsaicin as mutagenic in bacteria and yeast, although it doesn't state specifically which strains and by how much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the relevant question is, how much is too much? Clearly chili beers can be made, but perhaps the levels of Capsaicin were not significant enough to hinder yeast activity. Given the amount and specific variety of chili you plan to use, you may well be in &lt;strong&gt;uncharted territory&lt;/strong&gt;! I would suggest taking a packet of dry yeast, rehydrating and making a non-stirred starter complete with the chopped chilies. If the starter takes off and you see kraeusen, then you can assume the yeast function is still ok. You should probably also taste the starter, mainly to check for any off flavors but also to satisfy your masochistic tendencies! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capsaicin&quot;&gt;Capsaicin&lt;/a&gt;, or C&lt;sub&gt;18&lt;/sub&gt;H&lt;sub&gt;27&lt;/sub&gt;NO&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt; is a pretty big molecule, so I wonder if it can even pass through the semi-permeable yeast cell membrane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T10:17:51.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11030" CreationDate="2014-02-09T21:33:37.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Baker's yeast is not bred for producing rice wine which is high in alchohol. You should try using some yeast that was bred specifically for that purpose. I don't know if you want to make something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sake&lt;/a&gt; (not all rice wines = sake), but the major American yeast suppliers both sell high quality yeasts made specifically for sake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/he_s_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=43&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast sake #9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp705-sake-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White labs sake wlp 705&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp709-sake-9-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White labs sake #9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These area all good products with alcohol tolerances in the 14-16% ABV range. You can use other yeasts with high alcohol tolerances as well, but you may not get the flavors you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sake making also requires several other steps, including growing the koji mold spores on the rice. This is necessary in order to get fermentable sugar for the yeast to eat. Michael Tonsmeire documented the process on his &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/search/label/Sake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mad Fermentationist&lt;/a&gt; blog. You may want to get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1468147781&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;book&lt;/a&gt; or do additional research on homebrewing rice wine/sake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-02-09T21:57:04.260" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T21:57:04.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-09T21:43:34.003" Score="1" ViewCount="1191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just sampled my blueberry wine that's been aging for a couple of months now in the carboy.  A generous description would be &quot;light bodied.&quot;  There's not a lot of flavor.  Alcohol, yes, but just a hint of blueberry.  Any thoughts on what one could do to increase the flavor, or is that what blueberry wine is supposed to taste like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to make a dessert wine out of it.  Will adding sugar later help the flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6098" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T19:34:43.410" Title="Thoughts on increasing flavor of blueberry wine" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11649" CreationDate="2014-02-09T22:26:51.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pound for pound, Flaked oats and Steel Cut oats should have the same impact on body, flavor, and mouthfeel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both processes begin with raw, dehulled oats. The &quot;groats&quot; are toasted to halt lipolytic enzyme activity that would make the oats go rancid. Here, the process diverges. Steel cut oats are cut along the length of the groat, giving that small, cylindrical appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For flaked oats, the groats are steamed, then crushed between two rollers to flatten the kernels. After drying, the result is the flaked oats you can buy at the homebrew store, or in the grocery store as &quot;Old Fashioned Oats.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to note that steaming the oats changes the nature of the starch (gelatinizes it), making it accessable to amylase enzymes that convert the starch to sugar. If you're going to use steel cut oats, you'll need to cook them first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the &quot;nuttiness&quot; you mentioned, you can increase it by baking the oats (flaked or steel cut) on a cookie sheet at 300F until, to quote Randy Mosher, &quot;it smells like cookies.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more info, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buzzle.com/articles/how-oats-are-processed.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://mycaptainoats.com/about/how-oats-are-made/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6385" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T22:26:51.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11700" CreationDate="2014-02-09T22:29:41.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add blueberry honey. It's a great way to reintroduce the floral blueberry flavors and aromas that often get lost during fermentation. The added sweetness is likely to improve your perception of &quot;fruitiness&quot; as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6385" LastEditorUserId="6385" LastEditDate="2014-02-10T02:21:42.237" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T02:21:42.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11705" CreationDate="2014-02-09T23:41:59.383" Score="3" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm moving soon to UK and I would like to keep on brewing my beers there, does anyone know a shop where to get the tools (fermenters, heat exchanger, and so on) and ingreds (malts, hops yeasts and so on)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6434" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T19:11:18.073" Title="Where to buy ingredients and tools for brewing in UK?" Tags="|shopping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11682" CreationDate="2014-02-10T02:56:27.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be worth experimenting with adding it to soups and stews. Many traditional recipes call for bay leaves or other bitter herbs; a bit of hops bitterness might be a very appropriate variation. A bit of extra protein and vitamins, at least!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6436" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T02:56:27.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11703" CreationDate="2014-02-10T06:35:04.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/public/catalog.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/public/catalog.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Home_brew_Starter_Kits.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Home_brew_Starter_Kits.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are both in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brouwland offers shipping to the UK:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brouwland.com/en/?gclid=CMuR77T4wLwCFSuQcgodjQcALg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brouwland.com/en/?gclid=CMuR77T4wLwCFSuQcgodjQcALg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2637" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T06:35:04.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11703" CreationDate="2014-02-10T15:46:31.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Malt Miller&lt;/a&gt; for my ingredients.  Best and most consistent service I've had, and he crushes your grains to order so they're as fresh as possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also got my mash tun and boiler from him (not the ones he currently stocks), and I've been very happy with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1661" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T15:46:31.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11708" CreationDate="2014-02-10T17:32:03.500" Score="2" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to remove my airlock to get a temperature probe out of the carboy. I can probably do this in 15-30 seconds. I understand that air shouldn't touch the alcohol, but will this short of a time period hurt? I'm at day 4 of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I recall a worker at the LHBS state that he removes the airlock and adds yeast nutrients at day 3 of the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The temperature probe I bought did not have tinned wire ends, so I can't stick them in my breadboard. I didn't realize this until after I brewed. The company I purchased them from said I could get a refund for them. It cost me $10 and I could sacrifice it if taking the airlock off at all is bad).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T19:37:14.203" Title="What are the Consequences of Removing an Airlock for less than 60 seconds?" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11707" CreationDate="2014-02-10T17:42:02.340" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seconds are nothing.  I remember a long time ago coming home to a carboy that blew it's bung one evening, must have been exposed for hours.  It never got infected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, think of how long your beer is exposed from the time it goes from your bucket/carboy to the bottling bucket, and into bottles, hopefully without infection (at that point though, it's likely something else that touched the beer that caused an infection).  If you're paranoid enough, open it up in a room with minimal air movement (no fans, air vents, etc) and keep a spray bottle of Star San at the ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T17:42:02.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11703" CreationDate="2014-02-10T19:11:18.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wilko.com/kitchen/homebrew/icat/homebrewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UK Highstreet Shop&lt;/a&gt; (If you want to kill your local homebrew shops)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easyhomebrew.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;My Local Shop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;My Goto UK Online Shop&lt;/a&gt; (&amp;lt;-- I think everyone agrees)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.angelhomebrew.co.uk/en/12-camlock-fittings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cheapest UK Cam Locks&lt;/a&gt; (for DIY)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.angelhomebrew.co.uk/en/taps-and-fittings/17-2-piece-12-weldless-tap-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cheapest &amp;amp; Best UK Tap Kit&lt;/a&gt; (for DIY, all SS)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.solarproject.co.uk/sp2020-easy-connect-water-circulation-pump-%C3%82%C2%A3260-p-10.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cheapest &amp;amp; Safe Food grade water pump&lt;/a&gt; (for DIY)&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T19:11:18.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11707" CreationDate="2014-02-10T19:37:14.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If fermentation has begun and you have seen bubbles through the airlock, then you have a blanket of co2 covering your beer and co2 is heavier than air. In addition, like Scott said, a few seconds is nothing really. As long as you don't have air blowing in through the small hole, there's a slim chance of anyting going in and causing an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T19:37:14.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11712" CreationDate="2014-02-10T20:21:50.267" Score="2" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a dark and roasty wort effect the ability to read the color change strips.  I am not talking about how dark grains effect pH, I get that.  I simply mean the color of stout wort vs. pilsner wort.  It has to have an effect on an accurate color comparator right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used the strips plenty in the past in my lab career and also when screwing around with wort/water chemistry use pale ale as a learning tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now I am curious about my stout brewing.  Just thinking they might not work as well if the wort is brown!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T21:20:20.263" Title="Wort Color and pH strips" Tags="|water|chemistry|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11711" CreationDate="2014-02-10T21:20:20.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and no.  Anything that absorbs a liquid that is not clear will also absorb the liquid's color, so yes.  If you were to use a pH strip to absorb a wort solution that is high in the SRM scale, it will also absorb that wort's color as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, the amount of solution it is absorbing pales in comparison (hardy-har-har) to what you would pour in a pint glass, therefor it is significantly more translucent, and therefor not as dark in appearance.  A simple way to demonstrate this is to take your pint glass with a stout in it, and dipping a paper towel in it, versus dipping your pH strip.  The pH strip absorbs less, therefor it is more translucent, allowing more light to pass through, allowing you to get a more accurate reading.  That's in part why the litmus paper is so thin, so that the minimal amount of liquid it can absorb won't obscure the results too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, the margin of error (and interpretation) for pH strips makes this issue negligible at best.  Litmus paper becomes more and more unreliable with time since their accuracy degrades the longer they're exposed to oxygen and humidity.  So long as you use pH strips specific to homebrewing, you should be able to get within an acceptably accurate range.  If you're looking for absolute precision, you'll have to go with a digital pH meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T21:20:20.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11715" CreationDate="2014-02-11T18:06:13.720" Score="4" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a nano batch of single grain IPA and I don't know what I have done wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I started, I calculated the O.G. and F.G. as shown in the picture bellow.&#xA;After boiling the wort from 5.3 liters to 4.4 liters (~1 hour), I measured the O.G., and found it only to be 1.074 (pre-boil was 1.065).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is in a small carboy now, so I haven't measured the F.G. yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated up 4.4 liter of water to 72° Celsius (~161° Fahrenheit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added crushed grains, the temp is now around 67° Celsius (~152° Fahrenheit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turned off the stove and waited for an hour, but kept the temperature over 65° Celsius (~149° Fahrenheit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Started lautering with a sieve and washed the grains with warm water(around 67° Celsius), ended up with 5.3 liters of wort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Started boiling the wort. After it reached boiling point, I turn down the heat the stove&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Still boiling a little bit for an hour while I added some hops. After the hour I got 4.4 liters of wort left. Measured the O.G. at 1.074. (used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this calculator&lt;/a&gt; to get the right O.G. from hot wort)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooled the wort down and racked it to the carboy &amp;amp; added yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I'm doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there some common causes for not achieving an expected O.G.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pT42H.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6229" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-02-11T20:37:47.483" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T01:47:24.743" Title="Didn't get the expected O.G" Tags="|original-gravity|ipa|final-gravity|smash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11714" CreationDate="2014-02-11T19:51:36.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key piece that's missing here is extraction efficiency - how much sugar you can get out of the grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the calculator, it's set at 80%, but it's doubtful you got that just from steeping and lautering in a pot. You typically need continual recirculation to get 80%+. With my old equipment (a large cooler with a hand-made series of pipes with slits.) I used to average 70%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my guess is you did nothing wrong, other than you don't know the efficiency of your brewing system yet. Now you know the actual preboil OG you got, you can use that to work out your typical efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your actual efficiency is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;65 / 96 * 0.80 = 54%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is typical for steeping small batches since a lot of the grain doesn't come into contact with much water, especially during sparging. Next time, just put in 55% into the calculator and your OG will come out more in line with what is planned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Efficiency is a complex topic - for tips on finding out where you are losing efficiency see &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Troubleshooting_Brewhouse_Efficiency&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Troubleshooting Brewhouse Efficiency&lt;/a&gt;, and focus on the mash extraction and lautering sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-02-11T21:25:51.537" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T21:25:51.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11692" CreationDate="2014-02-11T22:19:47.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;The cake filled a growler, and after a week in the fridge has settled to about 2/3 yeast, 1/3 beer.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; That's 2/3 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trub_%28brewing%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;trub&lt;/a&gt;. The only way to know how much of it is yeast is to use a microscope. I wouldn't recommend just pitching in a new batch. Since you didn't wash it, it is going to have high amounts of non-yeast trub (proteins, lipids, et al). If you make a starter using some of your trub, once it has propagated; that is formed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-2-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;krausen&lt;/a&gt; and begun to settle, you can swish it, let it settle for 10 minutes, decant it into a sanitized container, let that settle until it is trub and beer, decant and pitch the slurry. That will avoid re-pitching some of the non-yeast trub. Ideally, you should do it with a large starter (at least 2 liters) since you will be ditching some of the trub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T22:19:47.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11723" CreationDate="2014-02-12T01:16:38.097" Score="3" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a demijohn of beer sitting 'maturing' in the fridge for 5 months, neglected mostly.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Needless to say it was crystal clear, which is little pointless as I ended up bottling it because within 5 months I hadn't sorted out CO2 for the keg (&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11620/kegging-but-without-co2-tank&quot;&gt;links with this other problem I had due to no co2&lt;/a&gt;). So the majority of yeast would have sunk to the bottom and the viability of anything floating around I'll assume is low. It's day 20 and there is a respectable thin and clean looking layer of yeast in the bottles but last week the beer was still quite sweet not fully carbed.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;How much longer than usual should I expect for complete priming?&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I've waited 5 months so I can wait a lot longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T18:34:58.640" Title="Expected priming time after 5 months in fridge?" Tags="|priming|cold-crash|cellaring|maturation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11714" CreationDate="2014-02-12T01:47:24.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the potential causes that @mdma cites (possibly mash is too thick, leading to poor contact of water with grain and poor sparging), which can be solved by having a more liquid mash (at least 0.55L of strike water per kg of grain, or 1.3 qts. per lb.), a primary cause is the fact that &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Batch_Sparging_Analysis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;your efficiency tends to decline as your grain volume (OG) increases&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T01:47:24.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11717" CreationDate="2014-02-12T03:14:56.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 5 months of cold storage, there would but next to no viable yeast left in the beer. Store it for a couple more weeks, somewhere warm, and you may get lucky. If not, you'll want to remove the caps, add a couple grains of dry yeast to each bottle, and recap. Don't worry too much about oxygen, as the renewed fermentation should consume any oxygen that's inadvertently introduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T03:14:56.750" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="43" CreationDate="2014-02-12T04:04:23.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;DMEmart.com, buy hops by the pound and reuse your yeast.  You should be able to brew a batch for under $25/5 gallons.  Under $30 if you wanna church it up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got into homebrewing young, like full grain brewing in high school (parents thought it was ok, long as I didn't get drunk) and gave up the hobby in my 20's cuz I got sick of paying 200+% markup to the beer snob dorks that bought the homebrew shop where i lived, doing a bunch of work and clean up, building/buying equipment and still paying more than I could buy it for.  Made wine for a decade instead.   got back into it few years ago when I realized that I could make german style lagers for cheaper than I could buy them.  I use all DME and buy hops by the pound for usually $1 to $1.5 per oz. after shipping. Cascades are usually best value, it seems.  I've even toyed with - purists, please sit so you don't get a concussion when you faint- corn sugar and don't think the results were too bad, but don't think there is much cost advantage.  I lager for a month in a fridge on the porch, bottle in plastic two liters and like my beer just fine.  I live in the woods and not trying to impress anyone.  That said, I pay about $.65 a beer.  About what I'd pay for a case of Miller lite at the grocery store.  Mine's way better.          &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T04:04:23.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11722" CreationDate="2014-02-12T12:49:53.383" Score="1" ViewCount="1323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am enjoying being a brewer, I can make beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, now I am trying to refine some of the processes. I generally make IPA's and have been using Wyeast American Ale II yeast.  Once fermentation is done (~5-7 days), how long should I let it sit for the yeast to clean itself up? At this time of year I can cold crash w/o fining to clear things up a bit @ about 35F for a few days. Does this seem ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I may be switching to US-05 dry yeast, any variation to the process using this yeast? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T22:54:57.773" Title="Is Wyeast American Ale II a highly flocculant yeast strain?" Tags="|yeast|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11721" CreationDate="2014-02-12T18:31:08.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wyeast 1272 American Ale II is has a flocculation level of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;medium&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get certainly clear beer from this yeast, you just need to give the yeast time to settle out. Cold crashing is a great way to do accelerate this process, 35F is fine, as close to freezing without freezing - how low you can go depends on how accurate your temp control is. Use a thermowell to get your temp control probe as close to the beer as possible. Give it as much time as you're comfortable with - a week should be enough, two is better. If you are planning to keg, this helps also, as the remaining sediment and yeast will get sucked out of the dip tube on the bottom of the keg. The first few pints will be more cloudy and bitter but after that it gets a lot clearer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US-05 (a.k.a. Chico yeast, California Ale yeast WLP001, American Ale 1056) is also a medium flocculation yeast. So no variation needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are of course, highly flocculant strains that are worth experimenting with to see the difference, for example, several of the British strains (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast London ESB 1968&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T22:54:57.773" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T22:54:57.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11717" CreationDate="2014-02-12T18:34:58.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The presence of yeasty dust in the bottle and some carbonation leads me to believe you can expect these to carbonate normally.  I have lagered beer at controlled temps for at least 5 months and gotten successful bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issues holding yours back are likely the temp swings.  Move the bottles to someplace closer to 70F and try and hold them there.  The swinging up and down during the day does not help the yeast out.  As the bottles cool again the yeast try to go dormant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put some in an oven with the oven light on only.  That will help maintain some temp.  Or put an electric heating pad in a box with a few bottles to get them warmer. (Obviously, not to warm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once they are warm I'd gently rouse the yeast into suspension by tipping the bottles over and swirling them a bit to get the yeast off the bottom.  Only rouse after warming them or the yeast will still think its too cool and settle out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you warm up, rouse and hold steady; two more weeks might get you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T18:34:58.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11726" CreationDate="2014-02-12T21:48:19.260" Score="4" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's snowing where I live. Are there any risks involved with boiling my wort outside, when snow can enter the boiling pot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6450" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T20:56:09.860" Title="Is it safe to boil my wort outside while it is snowing?" Tags="|wort|boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11725" CreationDate="2014-02-12T23:15:04.530" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll be fine, as long as there isn't some obvious source contaminating the snow - like if it's actually falling off of a tree or roof and not coming directly from the clouds. Snow is basically freeze distilled so it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://scienceline.ucsb.edu/getkey.php?key=1619&quot;&gt;pretty clean&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose if it's coming down very hard and several inches of snow fall in there it could it could dilute it a little bit, but I don't think you would taste the difference; it would be like adding some distilled water to the boil, I'm guessing it would be like a cup or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T23:15:04.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11898" CreationDate="2014-02-13T02:46:09.630" Score="2" ViewCount="1424" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully, I asked that correctly, once the yeast is pitched within a number of hours it begins to consume the fermentable sugars in the wort, create CO2, etc. once fermentation is completed, if I'm correct, it begins to &quot;clean up&quot; undesirable chemical components, I understand some yeast do this quickly, some not, what would be an approximate period of time for the clean up to be completed?  Following that process does the yeast just go dormant and settle to the bottom of the fermenter. Please feel free to correct my understanding as need be, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T06:07:34.693" Title="What is yeast's fermentation (life), cycle in brewing?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11730" CreationDate="2014-02-13T03:13:58.237" Score="1" ViewCount="4278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last weekend 2 of my friends and me tried brewing a lager (doppelbock) for the first time. Brewing went well, but not the yeast!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are now 4 days later, and no sign of activity. Gravity taken: did not go down at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the solutions considering that we don't have access to another lager yeast vial easily (2 hours drive) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can we buy an ale yeast and do it that way instead? What will be the results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the other alternatives, if any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It worked! It took almost one week but now we're getting something! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24210872/lager.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3895" LastEditorUserId="3895" LastEditDate="2014-02-20T02:13:20.530" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T02:13:20.530" Title="Lager: No fermentation, what are my choices?" Tags="|beer|fermentation|lager|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11728" CreationDate="2014-02-13T03:50:35.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Primary lager fermentation should take ~2 weeks at normal fermentation temps (50-55°F), usually followed by a diacetyl rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only pitched one vial, it might take at &lt;em&gt;least&lt;/em&gt; two weeks, since the first week is probably just growing the yeast population to ferment the batch. (If you split the vial between the 3 of you, may god have mercy on your souls.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was the original gravity? Did you pitch a single vial of yeast each, or split one? I'm assuming a starter was not made? At what temp is it fermenting?  Did you do any oxygenation/aeration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T03:50:35.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11728" CreationDate="2014-02-13T06:29:21.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you underpitched by quite a large amount. As for options, you have some:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch an ale yeast. You'll want to bring the temperature up to at least 17 C to keep the yeast happy. You'll end up with an ale, not a lager, but still a good beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise the temperature for a short while. If you can bring the temperature up to 15 C, you should start to see activity within a day or two. Once you see activity (krausen, bubbles in the airlock, etc.), &lt;strong&gt;slowly&lt;/strong&gt; bring the temperature back down to 10 C. If you drop the temperature too quickly, the yeast will crash and drop out of suspension. A degree or two per day is what you're aiming for. The beer may taste slightly fruitier than one fermented at a lower temperature, but will still be a lager.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait some more. If your sanitation was top-notch, the beer should be fine sitting for another few days. This will give the yeast a chance to reproduce, and start fermenting. If your sanitation was not so good, you may end up with an infected wort that you end up throwing out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are your options, as a I see them. If it were me, I would go with 3 first. Wait for a few days. If nothing happens after 3 or 4 days, I'd probably just pitch an ale yeast and hope for the best. The problem with warming the wort without adding an new batch of yeast, is that there's a chance the yeast you pitched was just not viable. If that's the case, no amount of aeration or warming is going to get it working. You're better off cutting your losses and turning your lager into an ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T06:29:21.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11734" CreationDate="2014-02-13T17:24:02.597" Score="3" ViewCount="1665" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always use RO water to brew.  I have never checked mash pH, but have become concerned since my brews have come out darker than predicted by BrewSmith.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought (I read in How to Brew by Palmer) that adding some DME to the mash will normalize mash pH; so that is what I have done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is RO water not the way to go?  Or should I be paying more attention to mash pH on lighter beers?  Is there a rule of thumb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6300" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T20:41:10.640" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T20:41:10.640" Title="Should I worry about mash pH when brewing with RO water?" Tags="|mash|water|ph|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11731" CreationDate="2014-02-13T17:42:17.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll get more browning with higher pH, but there are also plenty of other reasons for producing a darker wort, so you'll need to at least check the pH before deciding to do anything about it. Ideally your pre-boil pH should be around 5.3-5.5 - lower is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While adjusting pH may help you with the color, you should be adding minerals to the RO water for the benefit of mash efficiency, flavor, stability and yeast health. In particular &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6167/what-calcium-ppm-is-required-in-the-mash-for-alpha-amylase-stability-and-mash-ef&quot;&gt;Calcium&lt;/a&gt; a key constituent in brewing liquor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T17:42:17.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6167" CreationDate="2014-02-13T19:39:19.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recent research by water engineer Martin Bru'ngard (author of the killer Bru'nwater spreadsheet)is leading to the conclusion that less calcium is needed than previously thought.  His preliminary findings are that 50 ppm of Ca is generally enough for ales, and lager yeast may perform better with as little as 20 ppm.  Too much Ca can lead to cloudy beers.  His findings at this point are preliminary, but point to some interesting information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T19:39:19.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11731" CreationDate="2014-02-13T19:41:51.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the best results, you should always check your pH and adjust if necessary.  Using RO water doesn't change anything.  Remember, it's the pH of the mash, not the water, that matters.  As pointed out above, you will also need to adjust the mineral content of your water for flavor.  That will likely also have an effect on the pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T19:41:51.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11700" CreationDate="2014-02-13T20:10:01.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Early on, I made a number of fruit wines and I found my initial attempts produced a very thin, light bodied wine with marginal flavors similar to the experiences you're having with your batch of blueberry wine.  It takes a significant amount of ripe fruit to produce strong flavors in fruit wines.&#xA;Also, yeast selection is important, as well as keeping your ABV 12% or a bit less, keeping the alcohol from masking the fruit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You may wish to experiment with one gallon batches, working to get your proportions correct to give you results you want.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another option you have is to blend some of your blueberry wine with another red wine.  I have had good success blending blackberry with Cabernet Sauvignon. Blueberry has been blended with Pinot Noir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T20:10:01.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-13T20:51:36.833" Score="2" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a European Sankey keg with a Type S tap, but my CO2 container only has connectors for a ball-lock valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What connectors do I need to get the tap pictured attached to my CO2?  It would help to know what the individual components are called in German too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegworks.com/sankey-to-ball-lock-disconnect-conversion-kit-778-p177420&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.kegworks.com/sankey-to-ball-lock-disconnect-conversion-kit-778-p177420&lt;/a&gt; is exactly what I need, except it's only for a US tap and has the wrong threads for the European tap, which I believe are 5/8&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6NbE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1770" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T12:38:22.370" Title="What kind of connectors do I need for my keg, and where can I get them?" Tags="|keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2014-02-14T03:08:37.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going all electric after making 10 gallon batches on my stove. As far as boil overs go, use boil over solution from most brewing companies. I can boil boil 9 gallons in my ten gallon pot with no worries - a couple squirts and I am good to go&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6454" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-02-20T10:08:27.790" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T10:08:27.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11700" CreationDate="2014-02-14T04:30:00.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My thoughts (YMMV) would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yeast, look for one which says on the packet (&lt;a href=&quot;http://vintnersharvest.com/pages/using-fruit-wine-bases&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;web site&lt;/a&gt; etc) that it is good with fruit/floral wines, &lt;a href=&quot;http://vintnersharvest.com/collections/wine-yeasts/products/vintners-harvest-wine-yeast-r56&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;e.g.&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you don't let the wine oxidise (don't over handle it, use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campden_tablet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Campden tablet&lt;/a&gt;, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may want to add some tannins(you can buy this in powered form), to hold the body together.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried some very nice blueberry ports, so if you have some neutral spirit handy, you could add that in part way through a brew, and see what you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Applejack_%28beverage%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;freeze concentrating&lt;/a&gt; your current batch. Which will bump up the flavour, alcohol, and sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6041" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T04:30:00.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11736" CreationDate="2014-02-14T06:55:57.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegworks.com/connectors-for-beer-lines-1170-p16540?featured=&amp;amp;_s_icmp=KWinternalrecs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; looks like it would attach to your tap, then you just need to replicate the fittings you have on your current CO2 set up...  I emailed kegworks to confirm it would work for a European Sankey keg. I received an email response from customer care at kegworks who said it would fit and the only difference between European and American Sankeys is the fitting that goes into the keg itself. That said the fitting in your original post may work fine. sounds like either one might be worth a shot..  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have solved similar problems by taking my hardware to the helpful folks at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hose &amp;amp; Fittings&lt;/a&gt;.  The shop in Reno conveniently had a brewer on staff!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6455" LastEditorUserId="6455" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T14:21:23.643" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T14:21:23.643" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11728" CreationDate="2014-02-14T07:13:34.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the site so I can't comment on other posts?  otherwise I would have added this to  Tobias Patton's post which is spot on.  My only addition would be for next time.  I would recommend using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.com/articles/yeast-starter.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yeast starter&lt;/a&gt;, especially with high OG brews.  I have found this technique to be well worth the investment (time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was your OG?  Keep in mind high OG brews benefit from using larger yeast colonies to kick start fermentation (otherwise you have to wait for the same effect in the main batch, see Tobias answer #3).  I started using this technique for brewing big IPAs and have not had trouble with the onset of fermentation since.  It's pretty straight forward and quite satisfying to have a vigorous fermentation in hours instead of a day or so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6455" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T07:13:34.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11743" CreationDate="2014-02-14T15:08:39.720" Score="1" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 15 gallon kettle and am looking to add a sight gauge to it. I have been looking around and have come across a couple that I like. I would rather get a sight gauge that is encased in metal like the one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ibrew.com.au/products/weldless-sight-gauge-16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. However, I have not read in the description of this gauge or any like it (with the encasing) that include some kind of calibration labels. The only sight gauge I can find that include the labels is &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewhardware.com/wlsightglass-60/49-lk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Am I missing something? Or are some manufacturers not including the labels?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6400" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T15:59:01.883" Title="How to read volume from a sight gauge" Tags="|kettle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11742" CreationDate="2014-02-14T15:51:20.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with sight gauges with pre-defined volume labels is that the manufacturer is not able to determine what size kettle you are attaching it to, and even if you are an 1/4 of an inch off, you could possibly be a 1/4 - 1/2 gallon off the mark (depending on how wide the kettle is).  I guarantee the 5-gallon mark on my Blichmann boil kettle is not going to be the same on any other kettle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far as I can tell, it looks as though the labels in the second link you provided come separate, and you have to apply them yourself.  To do that you'll need to install the sight glass as instructed, and then fill the kettle gallon by gallon (or liter by liter), and then mark them off on the glass as it's filled up.  You can get the nice vinyl labels, or I've seen a lot of people settle for permanent marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I would highly encourage the most robust sight glass you can buy.  Blichmann puts a metal shield (with the readings engraved) on either side of the glass, the first one you linked seems like it would be a good viable option as well.  Just remember, if that thing shatters, you now have a hole in your kettle for wort to come pouring out of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-02-14T15:59:01.883" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T15:59:01.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-14T19:47:35.217" Score="2" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like there are a lot more entries in certain style categories (American Ale, Belgian and French Ale, Specialty Beer) and a lot fewer in others (Lager categories). A category with more entries should be objectively more difficult to win in than one with less, so it's something to consider if you want to compete in a category where you have decent odds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could add facts or opinions about why this is the case (e.g. lagers are arguably harder to brew than ales, hence less entries) but that might be too subjective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-02-15T20:54:21.630" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T20:54:21.630" Title="What are the most and least competitive categories in BJCP sanctioned competitions?" Tags="|bjcp|competition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11744" CreationDate="2014-02-14T22:28:12.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lugwrenchbrewing.com/2012/07/most-popular-beer-styles-2012-nhc-entry.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;homebrewer's blog&lt;/a&gt; lists the categories with the five most and five least entries for at least the 2010-2012 NHCs.  It looks like it was consistent over those years.  This is the excerpt from 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2012 MOST POPULAR BEER STYLE CATEGORIES&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stouts (cat. 13) - 630 entries or 8.7% of total&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;American Ales (cat. 10) - 603 entries or 8.3% of total&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;India Pale Ales (cat. 14) - 553 entries or 7.6% of total&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Belgian and French Ales (cat. 16) - 491 entries or 6.8% of total&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Belgian Strong Ales (cat. 18) - 454 entries or 6.2% of total'&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2012 LEAST POPULAR BEER STYLE CATEGORIES&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Euro Amber Lagers (cat. 3) - 158 entries or 2.2% of total&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dark Lagers (cat. 4) - 162 entries or 2.2% of total&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fruit Beers (cat. 20) - 169 entries or 2.3% of total&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Amber Hybrid Beers (cat. 7) - 174 entries or 2.4% of total&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bock (cat. 5) - 195 entries or 2.7% of total&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T22:28:12.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2014-02-14T22:33:25.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brew batches smaller than 5- or 5.5-gallons. Accounting for evaporation and loss to hops/trub in the boil kettle, you have to start with a boil volume of at least 6- to 6.5 gallons for a five-gallon batch. That is pretty hard to boil indoors, especially on an electric element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I can fairly easily boil 3.5 gallons for a 2.5 gallon batch on the kitchen stove in my &quot;starter kettle&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T22:33:25.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11769" CreationDate="2014-02-14T23:48:01.843" Score="1" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like I've got a spare day tomorrow so I thought I'd get an AG brew on the go. What I've been wanting to do for a little while is brew a fairly plain, 1-dimensional 5 gallon test brew, and when it comes to dry hopping I will split it into 5 separate containers with a different hop in each. Being just a beginner I figure this would help me understand the flavour contributions from hops a little better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got 5 varieties of hops I've not tried before coming through in the next couple of days so I should be able to get the brew on now in preparation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I need to make a simple brew from the ingredients I have. I'm thinking about 5kg Maris Otter and 500g light crystal malt for the grains... Perhaps some maize for better head retention and clarity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when it comes to hops I'm not quite sure what to do... At my disposal tomorrow I have EKG, fuggles, challenger, target and first gold. I want to add hops purely to bitter so that they won't affect the flavour so whichever I choose it'll be for a thorough 60min boil at least with no later additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when it comes to dry hopping, how should I proceed? Weight of hops and duration etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions and tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips on the grain choice for this experiment greatly received too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T13:12:56.407" Title="Which hops should I use (and how should I use them) for bittering without aroma or flavour?" Tags="|hops|aroma|bittering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-15T10:06:09.197" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been cleaning all of my equipment with vinegar and this has always worked well. However recently i have had several brews that have been flat after the relevant brewing period and I have changed nothing about the process. I have always used the Coopers home brew kits and their canned brews without problems.  All bottles are completely sealed with no leaks and all have been primed with Coopers carbonated drops as per their instructions. Could using the vinegar as a cleaner be the causing the problem with flat brews? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6458" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-02-17T13:36:33.093" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T13:36:33.093" Title="Cleaning, sanitizing" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11749" CreationDate="2014-02-15T14:05:11.467" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is any vinegar still in the bottles during bottling, you could potentially kill the yeast for conditioning.  Your rinse or drying may have not been effective for this batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T14:05:11.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11749" CreationDate="2014-02-15T18:02:27.507" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you may not have got all the vinegar out of the bottles. That would kill the yeast, which is what carbonates the bottles by consuming the priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider using something other than vinegar as well. I typically use an iodine based sanitizer, such as IO Star.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T18:02:27.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11753" CreationDate="2014-02-15T18:10:03.140" Score="0" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11507/canning-unfermented-wort-for-yeast-farming&quot;&gt;prior post about canning wort&lt;/a&gt; to have it handy for yeast farming. What would the shelf life be of canned, unfermented wort? Any special steps to extend shelf life, perhaps adding hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm getting at, is would it be possible to do a huge batch (several gallons) and keep it for a year or two? On the surface it sounds like it would be plausible, as the contents are sterilized in the canning process and many things have a shelf life this long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T19:49:46.400" Title="Shelf life of canned and unfermented wort?" Tags="|wort|yeast-starters|shelf-life|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11752" CreationDate="2014-02-15T19:49:46.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you pressure can it, you should be able to do what you propose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T19:49:46.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11749" CreationDate="2014-02-15T20:14:04.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no reason that a small amount of vinegar in a bottle would affect carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T20:14:04.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11761" CreationDate="2014-02-16T10:40:16.540" Score="1" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've moved into a house with no access under the house. I was thinking of brewing beer in a shadowy corner of the backyard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is - is it practical to brew beer in your backyard using a box like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stevenson_screen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stevenson's screen&lt;/a&gt;? (Or is there a specific alternative to this for home brewing?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assumptions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The weather outside is the Australian summer (15-35 degrees C). Direct exposure to the sunlight would probably wreck the brew. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The point is to shelter the brewing process without having the odours in the house. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is about about fermenting outside in a shelter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2976" LastEditorUserId="2976" LastEditDate="2014-02-17T04:59:04.180" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T07:13:35.690" Title="Stevenson's screen for backyard home brewing?" Tags="|beer|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11767" CreationDate="2014-02-17T00:42:46.560" Score="0" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to various forms of alcohol and the processes used to distill them, and so I have a theoretical question.  What kinds of organic matter &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; be used to create an alcohol?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's wheat and rice and various fruits like oranges or grapes that are common for beers, vodka, etc.  And then there's gin which confuses me a bit.  Would it be possible to ferment (for example) pine sap?  Maple sap?  Garlic?  Onions?  Oregon Grapes?  Poison ivy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the relative expense of some of those materials that makes them rare or non-existent?  Or is it that the results are poor and/or not worth repeating?  Or just non-starting results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6466" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T13:28:27.620" Title="Alternative brews" Tags="|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-02-20T10:12:23.467" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11760" CreationDate="2014-02-17T04:53:10.343" Score="1" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have four carboys in the closet and four in my bedroom on account of doubling production. The carboys in the bedroom have towels wrapped around them to prevent sunlight from hitting them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ought to purchase better drapes, but in the meantime, is it ok for me to wrap a Fermwrapped carboy in a towel? Edit: I am referring to safety and efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Another thought: I have all the cardboard boxes which the carboys came in. Can I place them upside down over the carboy if it is wrapped in a fermwrap? (it is tall enough to fit the airlock).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I am worried about the most:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a Raspberry Pi with a commercial relay device (PowerSwitch Tail II) to monitor the temperature of the beer and turn on and off the Fermwrap if the temperature of the wort gets too low or too high, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am in the middle of programming it so that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I initially set the minimum temperature to 30% of the &quot;optimal temperature range&quot; and the maximum temperature to 40% of that range, meaning the fermwrap will turn on if the temperature is under 30%, and turn off if over 40%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the event that the temperature of the wort goes way higher than I anticipated due to the insulation effect of the towel/cardboard, the minimum and maximum range should decrease by 5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the event that the temp of the wort goes too low, increase the minimum and maximum by 5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried that if I don't program this correctly, the temperature of the fermwrap could possible get too hot and a) ruin the beer; but more importantly b) present a firehazard to the towel or to the cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-02-18T05:06:45.050" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T05:06:45.050" Title="Fermwraps and Contact with Towels or Cardboard ** Safety Question" Tags="|safety|fermwrap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11759" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11765" CreationDate="2014-02-17T05:03:11.633" Score="2" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally hooked a PowerSwitch Tail II up to my Raspberry Pi and Fermwrap. The RPi has DS18B20 temperature probes directly measuring the temperature of the wort by going down through the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this particular yeast strain, Northern Brewer recommends its optimal temperature range as 66-74°F (18.9-24.3°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did was subtract 66 from 74 to get 8. I rather arbitrarily chose that the fermwrap should be turned on when the temperature is lower than the bottom 30% of the range -- (8 * 0.3) + 66 = 68.4°F, and the Fermwrap should be turned off when the temperature is hotter than 60% of the range -- (8 * 0.6) + 66 = 70.8°F  ---------- This is 20.2°C and 21.6°C respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left the house for several hours and came back to find the brew at 74.8°F -- 0.8°F over. The Fermwrap was turned off as it should have been (I am assuming it turned off exactly at 70.8°F). Yet the temperature increased way more than I had intended it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured that by cutting the Fermwrap off at 70.8°F, and given that the ambient temperature was dropping as it was getting later into the night, that the carboy's temperature would not have kept increasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What point should I cut the Ferwrap off? Is 60% of the scale too high?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the fact that I am surrounding the carboy and the fermwrap with a towel (to block sunlight) have anything to do with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T16:01:18.650" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T16:01:18.650" Title="At what point on a Yeast's Optimal Temperature Range should the power to a Fermwrap be turned off?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|temperature-control|fermwrap|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11758" CreationDate="2014-02-17T07:04:11.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've wrapped towels, insulation, and lots of other things around a FermWrap without issue.  I like to use mine for sour-mashing, so I'll place a FermWrap around a boil kettle, then use a heating blanket to help give it insulation and an extra heat boost.  There have been no adverse effects, and nothing has caught fire yet, so I wouldn't be too concerned about wrapping a towel over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-02-17T19:31:52.617" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T19:31:52.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11755" CreationDate="2014-02-17T07:13:35.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stevenson's screens are overkill for home brewers.  If I understand the utility of them, they are used to keep your utensils and tools clean and clear of the elements of brewing outside.  Most of these elements will not effect the outcome of your beer to such a dramatic level that you should be concerned enough to warrant using this sort of containment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing outside is part of the enjoyment of home brewing.  The open air, getting out of the house, enjoying the sun (unless you live in North America this time of the year); all of it plays into the hobby of homebrewing.  Use your patio table, place your equipment on a kitchen towel to keep the glassware from shattering.  Unless there is a rain storm which would dilute your beer, a hale storm that could damage your glassware, or a thunderstorm that would cause your better half to question your logic behind wielding a stainless steel spoon next to a stainless steel boil kettle, don't worry about it, relax, and enjoy the hobby... Unless it's snowing... In which case, go inside, it's warmer there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T07:13:35.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11759" CreationDate="2014-02-17T07:26:15.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, wrapping the carboy in a towel will act as insulation and retain some of the heat.  Fermwrap's do require some amount of trial and error to find their sweet spots.  Keep in mind that while the Fermwrap is powered on, it is actively generating heat.  Immediately cut the power, and while it is no longer generating heat, the wrap itself is still warm, therefor it is still transferring heat to the carboy/bucket.  If the recommended temperature range is between 66°F - 74°F, I would start by setting my temperature controller around 67°F (assuming room temperature is lower than 66°F).  If it never goes about 67°F, I'll raise it a degree or two until I hit the exact degree I'm looking for.  The expectation that I'll  have is that even though I've set it to 67°F, it will likely rise up to around 71°F given the fluctuation in heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T07:26:15.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-17T11:39:23.130" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did a brew yesterday, hit the desired SG after the boil time - or so I thought. After cooling the wort, the SG dropped 2 points. What would cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3942" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T13:05:23.280" Title="FG dropped after wort cooled" Tags="|beer|wort|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11763" CreationDate="2014-02-17T13:05:23.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your hydrometer has been calibrated to give readings at a specific temperature.  Depending on the temp when you first read it and the temp after cooling a two point difference is not that surprising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look closely at the hydrometer, it will tell you the calibration temperature of your hydrometer.  They are normally done somewhere around 60, 65 or 68F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are hydrometer correction tables/tools available online to help with this in the future so you don't have to wait for the sample to cool.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&quot;&gt;Like this one at Brewers Friend&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T13:05:23.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11759" CreationDate="2014-02-17T13:15:57.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to base the choice on what temp you want to ferment at, not necessarily an analytical choice in the optimum range.  Different points in that range will create certain flavor profiles, all temps will make beer.  The profile you want comes from experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to remember that the fermentation itself generates heat.  I am sure that your temp setup is working fine.  The yeast simply started getting active and took it from there.  I do the same thing with a towel and my fermwrap.  But I normally start lower than I want to ferment at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The towel helps hold heat in obviously, but inorder to hold a temp you need to let heat escape too.  Ideally you want to match the rate of input and the output such that you maintain a certain temp.  Very hard to do when you consider that at first the only heat in is from the fermwrap.  But as time progresses the fermentation itself starts generating heat with its own increasing then decreasing rate.  All in all its  delicate balancing act if you don't employ both active heating AND cooling at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T13:15:57.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11766" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-17T13:17:53.047" Score="0" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a smaller (5 gallon) mash tun. I recently mashed 14 lbs and was only able to get a mash to water ratio of 1.2 and filled the tun!.  Temp was right on, but I only got 55% efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a recipe with 9 lbs of base malt and 6 lbs specialty (Cara-helles and Caravienne).  Can I mash the base malts and only steep the specialty malts to reduce the amount of grain in my mash tun and still get good extraction from the specialty?  I want to avoid mashing twice to shorten my brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6300" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T13:33:32.000" Title="Steeping/Mashing Cara- Grains" Tags="|mash|steeping|specialty-grains|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11757" CreationDate="2014-02-17T13:28:27.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alcohol comes from the fermentation of sugars.  Fermentation is the process by which microbes (often yeast) transform sugar sources into ethanol (alcohol) The source can be anything as long as the sugars are indeed fermentable by the yeast being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Distillation is the mechanical means by which alcohol is separated or purified from the solution that was fermented.  Beers and wines are not considered to be distilled.  Vodka and gin and other &quot;hard&quot; liquors are distilled. (On a side note, most all distilled spirits start out as vodka from a process standpoint.  How its processed afterwards is how its transformed into things like scotch, whiskey, rum or gin.  I am grossly simplifying this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice of starting material is only limited to the sugar content and how difficult it may be to process.  In the history of man I am sure there are many different things that have been attempted to be fermented, but may have failed due to flavor reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T13:28:27.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11766" CreationDate="2014-02-17T13:33:32.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You typically do not need to mash Cara-helles or Caravienne.  They are fully converted during the process used to make them the crystal malts that they are.  They can be steeped in your wort post lautering and pre-boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T13:33:32.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11747" CreationDate="2014-02-17T13:44:00.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the hops you have listed, I'd go with Challenger or Target, and keep the IBU's in the 20-25 range to minimize the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Dry Hopping, about an ounce in a 5gal batch is detectable, while a radio of 1:1 ounces/gallons is the standard way to get pungent dry-hop goodness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the dry hop aroma to be fairly strong, I'd split the batch into five 1-gal containers for dry hopping and use one ounce of the listed hops per container. Go down to 1/2 ounce each if you aren't looking to have the dry hops totally dominate the aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe all of those hops will perform well as Dry Hops, but a fair amount of people seem to dislike Fuggles for its &quot;earthy&quot; flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2014-03-03T13:12:56.407" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T13:12:56.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11771" CreationDate="2014-02-17T15:55:30.013" Score="2" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been bottle carbonating for the last 10 days. The temperature has been fairly consistent, between 17 - 20. I can see a little sediment, which suggests fermentation, but I can't see any bubbles, is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-02-24T18:41:44.250" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T18:41:44.250" Title="Should I see bubbles in an opened bottle when carbonating by bottle conditioning?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11770" CreationDate="2014-02-17T16:07:41.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, perfectly normal.  It may be done carbing or it may take a few more days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T16:07:41.193" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11772" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-17T16:26:13.973" Score="1" ViewCount="2001" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently brewing 1 gallon batches. Say I have a liquid yeast smack pack that's for a 5 gallon batch. What I'd like to do is use about 1/4 to 1/3 of the pack and store the rest for later brews. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read all about how you can store yeast slurry from a previous fermentation, but I'm not convinced the process is the same for yeast straight out of a pack. For example, the nutrients will vary greatly between plain yeast and yeast plus trub. Also, the yeast is at different stages of activity in these two situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've thought of so far is to pour the remaining yeast into (sanitized) mason jars with pre-boiled water, but I'm worried this won't be enough to keep the yeast alive in my fridge for long. On the other hand, I don't want to feed my yeast with DME, or something similar, and have a bunch of brewer's fireworks go off in the middle of the night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a practical solution for saving yeast directly from a smack pack or yeast packet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3983" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T12:18:03.490" Title="Saving and storing yeast straight from the packet" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11772" CreationDate="2014-02-17T17:32:48.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is so little yeast in one of those packs that you'll have a really difficult time dividing it properly.  You need to make a starter for any beer over 1.040 OG (despite what the yeast companies would have you believe).  You ask if there's a practical solution and there really isn't a good way to do what you want to do.  You could make a starter and save part of that.  That's about the best you can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T17:32:48.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11772" CreationDate="2014-02-17T22:46:02.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr Malty&lt;/a&gt;, you'd need about 1/3 of a pack for 1 gallon at 1.048 for direct pitching. The yeast will only remain highly viable for 2-4 weeks, though I've certainly pitched 6 month old washes that have functioned, though it was likely way under pitched. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using Mr Malty to determine how much to pitch in your 1 gallon batch (which will vary by OG), and then do your best to measure the entire contents and save off the remainder (in a sanitized container). Ideally, you don't want to over (or under) pitch but you may have less viability for the next batch, so either use a small starter for batches 2 and 3 or pitch the 2/3 into the second batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, the most practical solution is to brew at least 3 gallon, or preferably 5 gallon batches, since the bulk of the yeast, (and home brew equipment, materials, et al) are designed for 5 gallon batches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T22:46:02.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-18T07:38:44.353" Score="1" ViewCount="3016" Body="&lt;p&gt;my first mash.  Combined all the ingredients in a &quot;recipe&quot; I followed. Added the yeast and it started working rather quickly. My airlock is due to come in the mail in 2 days. So I did the whole balloon/condom topper until it arrives. But after I put it on top and poked the small holes for the gas release the balloon still filled with foam and thankfully I was still awake. I removed the balloon and cleaned it well. Put a new one on same thing. My yeast is going crazy. Did I do something wrong? The foam wants to overflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6471" LastActivityDate="2020-12-31T13:01:22.967" Title="Foam and bubbles" Tags="|yeast|mash|foam|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11775" CreationDate="2014-02-18T12:14:38.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a normal healthy fermentation.  You did nothing wrong.  In the future you could get a piece of sanitized tubing larger enough to fit in the opening of the carboy and jam it in there.  Then direct all that foam into a pitcher or bucket of water at the side of the carboy.  That's called a blow off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what you did was fine.  Once the foaming slows down it will still be fermenting. That will be a good time to put the airlock on.  Not before or you'll be cleaning the airlock of foam too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T12:14:38.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11772" CreationDate="2014-02-18T12:18:03.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd be better off saving the cake from the one gallon batch in small jars and reusing that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting even half a smack pack into a normal sized mason jar will leave too much surface area and headspace for oxygen exposure.  You need to minimize that to extend the livelihood of the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to invest in some pipetting equipment and some small tubes then I think you'd be in business.  But aside from that the volumes you are trying to work with won't treat your left over yeast well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry yeast may be a better option as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T12:18:03.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11780" CreationDate="2014-02-18T15:12:12.487" Score="7" ViewCount="17711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to homebrewing and am getting help from an experienced brewer. So far I think everything has gone OK. I am doing all-grain brewing on a stovetop. I have done 2 brews. I am doing the mash and boil in a 15 gallon kettle. As far as the mash, I have had no problem hitting my target saccharification rest temp and can hold it there (within about &lt;code&gt;+-&lt;/code&gt; 3°) for 60 minutes. However when attempting the boil I have run into somewhat of a problem. I can't quite reach a rolling boil. I can only hit about 210° with the lid off. And over the length of the boil, the temp slowly decreases to about 205°. If I leave the lid on, I can hit a nice rolling boil. For future brews, I plan on having a smaller amount of liquid in the kettle and will leave the lid on. Once I noticed I can get a much better boil with the lid it was too late to brew that way because I had about 6.8 gallons in my kettle and needed some of it to evaporate so I can get down to about 5.5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is this: What are the chemical, taste, etc. consequences of doing a &quot;weak&quot; or &quot;light&quot; boil at about 210° ? Will I taste a difference? Would an experienced brewer taste a difference? Was it not 100% sterilized?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6400" LastEditorUserId="6400" LastEditDate="2014-02-18T17:44:19.697" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T00:26:33.730" Title="What are the consequences of a &quot;weak&quot; boil?" Tags="|boil|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11778" CreationDate="2014-02-18T16:01:06.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe alpha-acid isomerization occurs well short of boiling (like 170-180°F), so you should be fine on hop additions and bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll get less boiloff/evaporation, especially with the lid on, so you might need to adjust your original gravity expectations accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be a reduction in any kettle caramelization or darkening you would see; for some light styles, this might be desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue is going to be the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Dimethyl_sulfides&quot;&gt;retention of DMS precursors&lt;/a&gt; that we use the boil to eliminate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T16:01:06.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11778" CreationDate="2014-02-18T16:17:58.810" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few consequences, none of them are game over's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, don't leave your lid on the kettle when you boil.  This will effect your evaporation rate and you'll likely not hit your Original Gravity as you would expect.  Also, Dimethyl sulfide (DMS) is a sulfur compound which leaves a taste of cooked or cream corn in your beer (a signature off flavor found in lagers like Rolling Rock).  DMS will evaporate off, therefor if your lid is on, it will condense and fall back into the solution with the rest of what can't evaporate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/DMS#Preventing_DMS&quot;&gt;homebrewtalk.com's wiki&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Kettle boiling hydrolizes SMM to DMS which is removed during evaporation. The half life or time needed to remove half of the DMS is 40 minutes so that three-fourths is removed in 90 minutes. Narssis recommends a 100 minute boil to reduce the level of SMM and DMS to acceptable levels in most beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefor you may need to under-boil for a bit longer (before starting your hop additions) in order to evaporate off adequate amounts of DMS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from DMS, and evaporation, the other consequence is alpha acid isomerization efficiency.  Your hop additions will suffer when it comes to measuring your IBUs.  I don't have an exact measurement as I don't think this has been adequately analyzed in a controlled environment yet, isomerization of the alpha acids occurs around the 175°F - 180°F, but only barely at that temperature.  It quickly drops off once you go below boiling, so you may find that if you can't hit 212°F, you may want to increase your hop additions to compensate.  Then again, the big thing is consistency.  If you can consistently have the same isomerization efficiency, you can adjust all your recipes accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I can recommend: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BDB4UG&quot;&gt;Allied Precision Ind 742G Bucket Heater With Guard, 1000-Watts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't consistent heat, as it turns itself on and off at regular intervals (likely to prevent it from burning up), but it should help boosting your temperature, and help with quickly increasing the heat.  You also might consider wrapping your boil kettle in &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0022NH3E4&quot;&gt;Reflectix&lt;/a&gt; insulation to help keep the heat contained to the kettle and prevent heat loss from the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, try not to cover your boil kettle, you'll suffer in alpha acid isomerization, and evaporation rates will decrease, requiring a longer boil time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T16:17:58.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11778" CreationDate="2014-02-18T16:47:25.427" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that no one has mentioned yet is that a stronger boil promotes beer clarity.  The proteins in the wort are forced to &quot;clump together&quot; more.  Increasing the size of the proteins like that causes them to fall out more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T16:47:25.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11725" CreationDate="2014-02-18T20:56:09.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing I could see happening is the ability to give it a really cool name like &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snow Balls Ale, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or Blizzard Stout, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or Black Ice Lager or something&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T20:56:09.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11786" CreationDate="2014-02-18T21:39:04.493" Score="2" ViewCount="5625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed my first hef, using a honey wheat kit. I am used to brewing with dry yeast, but this was vial of WLP320. I bought it Sunday Morning, and used it the same day so I didnt refridgerate when I got home. It sat on a shaded picnic table in about 70F weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I realized it, I'd gotten the temp of the wort down to about 65 (colder than I had anticipated). I pulled the bucket from the ice and pitched the yeast (I dont have a hydrometer yet, So I dont know the OG, I just usually go for at least 3 weeks in primary then bottle or keg). Then lugged it into the house. That was Sunday evening just after dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monday night I came home from work and there was no activity yet. This is about 27 hours after pitching. With the dry yeasts, I usually see activity as soon as 12-20 hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal for this type of yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks and cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T04:37:30.117" Title="Slow Fermentation startup?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11784" CreationDate="2014-02-19T04:37:30.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically when there's a significant lag-time, it can be attributed to any of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor yeast health&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insufficient yeast pitching rates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lack of aeration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to guess that the 3rd error above is likely the cause of your issue, but it could very well be a mix of all three.  You may see it start either tonight or tomorrow.  If it does, that indicates that your yeast are struggling.  I'd recommend aerating it and possibly pitching another vial/packet of yeast to be doubly certain.  To aerate, you can either pour the wort between your boil kettle and the bucket several times (once is not nearly enough), you can stir it using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0064OG79E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stir rod&lt;/a&gt; attached to a drill, or you could use pure O2 and an aeration stone that you'd submerge into the wort and aerate for a minute or two.  The higher the OG of the recipe, the more oxygen it needs.  If you get into high gravity brewing, pure O2 is almost a must, unless you want to use the stir-rod, and give it a good second and possibly third aeration 24-36 hours after you've pitched your yeast to re-introduce more oxygen right as the lag phase ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer it sits without fermenting, the more likely it is to become infected.  A short lag time is key to a good, solid fermentation, which is doubly important for German/European style ales where a good chunk of the flavor is attributed to the yeast and it's fermentation byproducts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T04:37:30.117" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11788" CreationDate="2014-02-20T00:23:48.093" Score="1" ViewCount="1437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a cider with the below recipie and I have noticed that as it ages it is starting to get a watery taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would cause this? The bottles are stored out of sunlight and are never moved till I take them to the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe here: Date made 19/09/2013 OG 1.092 FG 0.995&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;21L Juice (7bottles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast Nutrient (Boil up raisins (that don’t have sulphite on them) and small amount of water, mash up the raisins and simmer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10- 14Cup’s corn sugar or dextrose (the more sugar the more kick it will have)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 Lalvin EC1118 Yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps 1.Boil up yeast nutrient and mash up raisins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.Take out a little juice from the bottle and add sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.Shake out the sugar(even do this for the fermenter batch as it saves time and stirring)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.Put in the yeast nutrient(make sure that it isn’t still too hot) and shake the bottle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5.Add the yeast and shake the bottle a. If you are making a fermenter size batch then pour it all in the fermenter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.Leave that until the fermenter has stopped bubbling and leave for a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastEditorUserId="17594" LastEditDate="2019-09-10T20:48:09.553" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T20:48:09.553" Title="What makes a cider/wine turn watery after a few months?" Tags="|cider|wine|flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11787" CreationDate="2014-02-20T05:46:53.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take gravity readings, you'll notice that the final gravity is extremely low.  Cider is notorious for fermenting very low, and you're adding to it by tossing in sugars which are 100% fermentable (meaning that 100% of the sweetness will ferment out).  The reason it is &quot;watery&quot; on your palette is because there is no sweetness.  I'd be willing to be you have a final gravity of well below 1.000 (with 10-14 cups of corn sugar, definitely below 0.090, maybe even 0.80).  Most people will back-sweeten with a sugar that cannot be fermented by the various saccharomyces strains, such as lactose.  You really will need a hydrometer for this, as you will have to stir it in, and get it up to the gravity you want (likely somewhere between 1.006-1.010 depending on how sweet you like your cider).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I haven't tried this myself yet, I've heard people having a lot of success using normal ale strains of saccharomyces, as they are less attenuative than most of the wine and champagne yeast strains.  This would end with the yeast being more sweet, but it could very well still be dry (&amp;lt; 1.000), so lactose may still be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T05:46:53.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11795" CreationDate="2014-02-20T06:39:44.387" Score="3" ViewCount="1425" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was told I can add lemonade or orange juice to my wheat beer to make a summer shandy, can I just put fruit in the second fermentation stage instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6478" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T16:03:26.837" Title="So I want to make a summer shandy, can I just put fruit in the second fermentation stage instead of juice?" Tags="|fermentation|fruit|wheat-beer|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11775" CreationDate="2014-02-20T10:15:30.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Next time try cooling down to under 70&amp;deg;F/20&amp;deg;C and letting it ferment in a cooler place, say around 64-65F/17&amp;deg;C - that will reduce the amount of foam produced since the yeast work slower. You will probably also get cleaner tasting beer as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T10:15:30.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11789" CreationDate="2014-02-20T13:16:27.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly try it. That's the major advantage of homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, just because these beers are coming prepackaged nowadays doesn't mean that's the way its done in the place of origin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These things evolved really as beer cocktails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think its far better to just add the lemonade to the beer in the glass.  That way you have great beer to begin with and don't have to drink it all as shandy. You can also dial in the amount of dilution to fit your own taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Or try a Radler which is typically lemon/lime/citrus soda and lager beer together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T13:16:27.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11775" CreationDate="2014-02-20T14:42:21.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the answer brewchez provided, here is something I have done in these situations: Get a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.midwestsupplies.com/airlock-3-piece-type.html?utm_medium=feeds&amp;amp;utm_source=google&amp;amp;gdftrk=gdfV24959_a_7c1306_a_7c6184_a_7c6005&amp;amp;gclid=COeSnYH32rwCFc5DMgodhEkArg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3-piece airlock&lt;/a&gt; and some 1/2&amp;quot; tubing and fashion it like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Px0E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Px0E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fill the bucket with bleach or star san.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6400" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2020-12-31T13:01:22.967" LastActivityDate="2020-12-31T13:01:22.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11789" CreationDate="2014-02-20T16:03:26.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One difficulty you'll have with getting that signature shandy flavor when adding fruit to secondary is that the sweetness (sugar) of the juice will get converted to alcohol by the yeast, leaving you with mostly aroma, and a little flavor.  A lot of people don't recognize how much sugar plays into the overall taste of the fruit.  Without the sugars, it is not nearly as appealing as we may think.  In my experience, the aroma tends to drop off over time as well.  This is why people tend to add a lot of fruit, especially of the citrus variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing to keep in mind with this is to really recognize how vital aroma is to our perceived tastes.  I have a berlinner weisse on tap right now (mild on the lactic tartness) that I added 3 pureed pineapples to in secondary.  The sugars from the pineapple fermented out, leaving you with only the faintest hint of actual pineapple flavor.  Within the first 2 weeks, the aroma was nothing but pineapple.  Friends (untrained palettes) would try the beer and remark that it tastes like pineapple juice, even though the actual pineapple flavor was very, very mild (likely they perceived the lactic acid tartness as a character of the pineapple additions and not the sour mash, I didn't want to downplay my beer or confuse them though).  It's been in the keg for close to a month now, and I'm beginning to see a drop off in aroma.  Without having that pineapple punch in the sniffer, it becomes more obvious just how slight the pineapple flavor was, when before, the very, very strong pineapple aroma would trick people into thinking it has more pineapple flavor than it actually did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why people blend in things like lemonade and other juices when they pour it as brewchez recommended, as to avoid fermenting out the sugars.  Without verifying, I suspect a lot of people who blend their shandies for production either filter out the yeast, or kill the yeast before blending so that the sugars can't ferment out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T16:03:26.837" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11016" CreationDate="2014-02-21T08:56:28.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In traditional Cider production in Hardander in Norway only wild yeast from fruit are used alone. This will not hurt the taste as long as you are a pedantic regarding cleanliness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An advantage to using commercial yeast is that they will often suppress wild yeast from impurities as well and give a better, faster result. By increasing the alcohol level faster the commercial yeast will also kill off more bacteria and such than can pollute you cider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pasteurisation of the fruit is seldom necessary. If you are using wild fermentation pasteurisation will effectieely kill your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6490" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T15:08:29.590" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T15:08:29.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-21T14:37:59.783" Score="9" ViewCount="2468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really don't want to start a major battle over the use of Irish Moss in beer making, just wish to become more educated about the use of this product.  I have reviewed the pro and con websites, that say, of course it's bad or it's safe.  Is there any specific independent research or information online that isn't bias?  I'm happy with my beer sans Irish Moss, so most will say I've made my choice already.  Just looking for legitimate information to add to my knowledge base. Thanks for any insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T22:20:00.060" LastActivityDate="2022-10-28T17:36:27.060" Title="Is there a heath issue using Irish Moss aka Carrageenan in beer making?" Tags="|irish-moss|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11800" CreationDate="2014-02-21T15:15:56.027" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrageenan#Health_concerns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; on carrageenan outlines a number of peer reviewed animal studies, the results of which are mixed with some researchers claiming carrageenan poses no health concerns, while others assert that it promotes gastrointestinal tract inflammation and increased incidence of tumours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This study found no correlation between dietary carrageenan and tumour formation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cohen S and Ito N (2002) &quot;A critical review of the toxicological effects of carrageenan and processed eucheuma seaweed on the gastrointestinal tract.&quot; Crit Rev in Toxicol 32(5) 413-444&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Studies that found an increase in tumour formation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Watanabe, K., Reddy, B. S., Wong, C. Q., &amp;amp; Weisburger, J. H. (1978).&#xA;&quot;Effect of dietary undegraded carrageenan on colon carcinogenesis in&#xA;F344 rats treated with azoxymethane or methylnitrosourea&quot; Cancer&#xA;Research 38(12), 4427-4430.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Taché, S, Peiffer, G, Millet, A-S, and Corpet, DE. &quot;Carrageenan gel&#xA;and aberrant crypt foci in the colon of conventional and human&#xA;flora-associated rats.&quot; Nutr Cancer 37:75–80, 2000. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Corpet, DE, Taché,&#xA;S, and Préclaire, M. &quot;Carrageenan given as a jelly, does not initiate,&#xA;but promotes the growth of aberrant crypt foci in the rat colon&quot;&#xA;Cancer Lett 114:53–55, 1997b.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These studies show a link between GI inflammation and dietary carrageenan:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bhattacharyya S, Dudeja PK and Tobacman JK (2010) &quot;Tumor necrosis factor alpha-induced inflammation is increased but apoptosis is inhibited by common food additive carrageenan.&quot; Journal of Biological Chemistry 285(50): 39511-22&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Borthakur A, Bhattacharyya S, Anbazhagan AN, Kumar A, Dudeja PK and Tobacman JK (2012) &quot;Prolongation of carrageenan-induced inflammation in human colonic epithelial cells by activation of an NFκB-BCL10 loop.&quot; Biochimica and Biophysica Acta 1822(8): 1300-7&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T23:43:29.000" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T23:43:29.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11800" CreationDate="2014-02-21T16:06:38.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am no scientist, but I would think that since Irish Moss is only used as a coagulant and precipitant in brewing that the amount retained in the beer after racking would be significantly less than say ice cream, where it is used as a gelling agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6300" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T16:06:38.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11800" CreationDate="2014-02-21T17:05:33.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference is that you consume the carageenan in ice cream.  It drops out in beer so you don't consume it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2022-10-28T17:36:27.060" LastActivityDate="2022-10-28T17:36:27.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11817" CreationDate="2014-02-22T13:44:06.150" Score="2" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing extract kits for a while and I think it's time to go to all grain brewing, but I don't exactly know what to buy.  I have the book How To Brew and it shows a basic setup, but I'd like to buy something nicer than converting a picnic cooler.  I have read this question/response (&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/895/about-going-all-grain&quot;&gt;About going all-grain&lt;/a&gt;), but would like to get a response more tailored to what I'm looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My budget is about $1,500 to at the most $2,000 (probably looking more towards $2,000 I guess).  I would like input as to what is the best (I know, relative term, everyone has their own ideas) options to have a complete setup for this price range.  I don't have room to make it a permanent installation, so the only other parameter is that it must be able to be taken apart and transported from my basement to my backyard on brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm basing my prices on the Williams Brewing catalogue and MoreBeer.com.  If there's somewhere better, I'd appreciate that suggestion.  Here's what I'm thinking so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 stainless steel pumps ($149 each)&#xA;Propane tank ($50)&#xA;2 burners ($160 each)&#xA;1 raised burner so I can gravity feed into fermenter ($200)&#xA;40 plate wort chiller ($149)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This puts me at $1,017 so far.  Then I'll need 3 pots and assorted connections.  I'd like to be able to brew enough that I can get 10 gallons worth of beer, so probably a 15 gallon pot?  Suggestions as to what exactly I'm missing will be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3803" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T00:41:00.110" Title="New All Grain Setup" Tags="|equipment|all-grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11805" CreationDate="2014-02-22T21:01:55.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With 2 pumps, you don't need to worry about gravity feed to the fermenter.  Also, for 10 gal. of finished beer I'd recommend something bigger than a 10 gal. pot.  That's about all the help I can give you since I've brewed 452 batches using a cooler and wouldn't think of doing it any other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T21:01:55.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11809" CreationDate="2014-02-23T08:21:04.107" Score="2" ViewCount="2156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried to use many things to clear wine or fermented beverage. Things like cloth, paper towels and coffee filters, non of these work well, but what is the most effective way to clear out the thick yeast left over and further more, after all the clearing is done, is there anyway to make it more clear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6495" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T04:34:32.607" Title="How do i clear the batch after fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|wine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11807" CreationDate="2014-02-23T16:38:01.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using any of those things to filter beer will badly oxidize it and ruin the flavor.  I clear beer with time and cold temperature.  A couple months at 35F will clear just about any beer.  You can also use things like gelatin, Polyclar, or Biofine.  If you want to filter you needs kegs and a CO2 setup to push the beer so you can do it in an enclosed manner and not pick up oxygen.  Or, there's the old standby of drinking out of a porcelain mug so you can't see it!  ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T16:38:01.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11807" CreationDate="2014-02-23T21:12:13.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2766/what-is-cold-crashing&quot;&gt;Cold crashing&lt;/a&gt; so the yeast and other undesirables fall out of suspension and to the bottom of the vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11365/what-are-finings-how-do-finings-work&quot;&gt;Finings&lt;/a&gt; is another way clarify and drop out the undesirables from suspension in the fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3323/racking-question&quot;&gt;Rack&lt;/a&gt; in to a new vessel, you transfer the from one vessel to another gently with a siphon of some description and leave behind the sediment undisturbed.&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T17:23:50.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11807" CreationDate="2014-02-24T18:37:47.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An additive like Irish Moss during the last few minutes of the boil will help clarify the final product. I've also found racking to a secondary fermenter has helped clarify a lot too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using cheese cloth, or coffee filters have a potential for introducing bacteria into the final beer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3255" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T18:37:47.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11816" CreationDate="2014-02-24T20:21:32.437" Score="2" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only brewed ~6 batches of beer thus far, and for all of them I have used Wyeast smack packs. However, for each batch, the kit I was using recommended a different strain of Wyeast. What is the difference between each strain of yeast, and what would happen if I used a different strain than the kit recommended? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4008" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-02-24T21:00:20.290" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T04:32:31.393" Title="Benefits of different liquid yeast strains?" Tags="|yeast|wyeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11813" CreationDate="2014-02-24T20:59:35.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast strains have many different properties, primarily related to the types of flavor and aroma compounds they produce, the effect of fermentation temperatures, pitch rates and re-pitching, alcohol tolerance, flocculation and even what types of sugars they can consume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, the &quot;Dupont&quot; saison strain (Wyeast 3724) is described:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A traditional yeast that is spicy with complex aromatics, including bubble gum. It is very tart and dry on the palate with a mild fruitiness. Expect a crisp, mildly acidic finish that will benefit from elevated fermentation temperatures. This strain is notorious for a rapid and vigorous start to fermentation, only to stick around 1.035 S.G. Fermentation will finish, given time and warm temperatures. Warm fermentation temperatures at least 90°F (32°C) or the use of a secondary strain can accelerate attenuation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While an alternative saison strain (Wyeast 3711) is described:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A very versatile strain that produces Saison or farmhouse style biers as well as other Belgian style beers that are highly aromatic (estery), peppery, spicy and citrusy. This strain enhances the use of spices and aroma hops, and is extremely attenuative but leaves an unexpected silky and rich mouthfeel. This strain can also be used to re-start stuck fermentations or in high gravity beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(When it says 3711 is extremely attenuative, it's not kidding: I've had beers ferment down to 1.002 at not particularly elevated fermentation temps (~70°F).)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of many beer styles, the types of flavors the yeast produces are considered appropriate or even required for the style.  For example, Weihenstephan Weizen (WY3068) &quot;produces the banana and clove nose traditionally associated with German wheat beers and leaves the desired cloudy look of traditional German wheat beers.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, there is a much more subtle difference between some strains, making multiple strains completely appropriate for a given style. For instance, a stout fermented with Wyeast 1272 (American Ale II/Anchor Liberty) might only differ in some subtle fruity or nutty notes compared with the relatively clean profile of Wyeast 1056 (American Ale/the &quot;Chico&quot; strain/Siera Nevada).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more major differences between ale (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) and lager (Saccharomyces pastorianus) species, and again with the various Brettanomyces species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-02-24T21:51:24.090" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T21:51:24.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11813" CreationDate="2014-02-24T21:56:52.700" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of objective, quantifiable differences between yeast strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature range&lt;/strong&gt;. Beer yeasts are roughly categorized into lager and ale strains. All lager strains work best at low (~50&lt;sup&gt;0&lt;/sup&gt; F.) temperatures, while ale strains work best closer to room temperature (~68&lt;sup&gt;0&lt;/sup&gt; F.). But within either of these categories, different yeasts have different optimum temperature ranges. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=143&quot;&gt;WYeast 1024 (American Ale)&lt;/a&gt; has a maximum temperature of 72&lt;sup&gt;0&lt;/sup&gt; F. while WYeast 3724 can ferment at temperatures up to 95&lt;sup&gt;0&lt;/sup&gt; F.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attenuation&lt;/strong&gt;. Yeast strains vary in how much of the available sugars in the wort they can ferment. Ale yeast generally have apparent attenuation numbers around 75%. Lager strains are typically higher, around 80%. But again, there's a lot of variability within these groups. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=199&quot;&gt;WYeast 3711 (French Saison)&lt;/a&gt;, an ale yeast, can reach 83%.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flocculation&lt;/strong&gt;. Some strains of yeast tend to clump together during fermentation. These strains are described as highly flocculent. Flocculation and attenuation tend to be inversely covariant. That is, as flocculation increases, attenuation drops and vice-versa. This is due to highly flocculent yeast dropping out of suspension, and fermentation stalling early. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alcohol Tolerance&lt;/strong&gt;. Alcohol is a poison to all yeast, but some strains are more tolerant than others. Most yeast will tolerate up 9% ABV, but some, particularly Belgian strains, go as high as 13% &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some yeast traits are objective and quantifiable in principal, but in practice they are subjective in the absence of laboratory equipment;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ester Production&lt;/strong&gt;. Yeast produce small quantities of esters, which give beer a taste and aroma usually described as fruity.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Phenol Production&lt;/strong&gt;. Similar to esters, yeast pro due phenols which are described as giving beer a spicy quality.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different strains are also described as producing beers that are &quot;malty&quot;, or &quot;minerally&quot;. Some strains are noted for producing &quot;tart&quot; beers, but this might just be a side-effect of unusually high attenuation accentuating acids already present in the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To complicate matters further, many of these traits change with fermentation temperature. Belgian yeast strains will typically produce phenolic beers when fermented at cooler temperatures, and beer heavy in esters when fermented warmer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What would happen if I used a different strain than the kit&#xA;  recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would make a different beer. Sometimes the difference will not be particularly noticeable. You could substitute Scottish ale yeast for American ale yeast, and your beer would be subtly different. But if you used Belgian Abbey Ale yeast instead of American ale, you would produce a noticeably different beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experimenting with different yeast strains is one of the most rewarding parts of home brewing, in my opinion. Not all of your experiments will be roaring successes, but it's hard to make a beer completely undrinkable just by varying the yeast strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few guidelines to help you in your experiments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;pay attention to temperature guidelines. In particular warm fermentation with lager yeast will usually produce a beer wreaking of sulphur. Some lager strains (California common, Bohemiam pilsner) can be fermented warm but they're the exception not the rule.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you're brewing a high-acohol beer be sure to use an alcohol tolerant strain unless you like your beer sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;low alcohol beers (ordinary bitter, mild, etc) work best with a high flocculation, low attenuation strain. These strains leave enough unfermented sugars in the beer to provide some body and sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some beers get the bulk of their flavour from the yeast strain. Wheat beers and Belgian ales are good examples. You can experiment with different yeasts when making these beers, but you'll probably want to stay within the same type of yeast strain. I.e. don't try to make a Belgian tripel with an Irish ale yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T21:56:52.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11805" CreationDate="2014-02-25T00:41:00.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could go a number of different routes. Homebrewing can be as complicated or as easy as you want it to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need 3 pieces of equipment: HLT, Mash Tun, Boil Kettle. For that price, I would get a large kettle (at least 11 gallons) with a ball valve. For mash tun, get a cooler and buy a conversion. HLT can be another 10 Gallon kettle with ball valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a few better bottle or glass carboys. You'd be all set with some money to spare. No need to throw money at it if you don't have to :). Save the rest for when you understand the all grain process deeper and can pick what would benefit you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6502" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T00:41:00.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11813" CreationDate="2014-02-25T04:32:31.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just wanted to add a point. WIth liquid yeast, it's important to use a starter. Not only will you save money on buying 2 liquid yeast packs but it will ensure your fermentation gets off to a good start. Certain styles you want the yeast to be stressed (like Weizens) because it gives off a banana or clove flavor. However with most styles this isn't desired. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6502" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T04:32:31.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11807" CreationDate="2014-02-25T04:34:32.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold crashing has the best results in my opinion. Just get it as cold as you can for at least 1-2 weeks before you bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For wine or cider, if you really want to get it clear you can use a secondary. However, the consensus is that you may risk oxidation during transfer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6502" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T04:34:32.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10599" CreationDate="2014-02-25T04:37:08.170" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making beer, boiling the extract can give the beer a darker flavor. I'm not sure if that would help during mead-making but if there is any boiling involved you could give it a whirl. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6502" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T04:37:08.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11825" CreationDate="2014-02-25T16:56:07.653" Score="1" ViewCount="5381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just beginning all grain and starting to put together my lists. I have a 5 gallon kettle that I used for extract batches. I plan on upgrading to a 11 gallon boil kettle. Will the 5 gallon kettle be enough to hold my heated up water for 5 and 10 gallon batches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6502" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T14:54:09.997" Title="Standard size of HLT for all grain?" Tags="|all-grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11235" CreationDate="2014-02-25T17:01:31.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of resources online that might help. I would first check to see if your local municipality has a water report that they put out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also this calculator which may be helpful:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/water-chemistry/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/water-chemistry/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you are located, the bigger cities have some user submitted feedback on water conditions and best styles to brew dependent on the water chemistry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6502" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T17:01:31.817" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11822" CreationDate="2014-02-25T18:00:37.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that it's not sufficient for 10 gallon batch unless you're happy refilling, 3-4 times. I brew 10 gallons and have a 20 gallon HLT which I fill to 18-19 gallons at the start of brewday, and use all of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 10 gallon batch, many target 11-12 gallons into the fementor. This means a preboil volume in the order of 14-16 gallons depending upon evaporation rate. Grain and hop absorption accounts for the remainder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 20/20/20 gal for BK/MLT/HLT - I based my sizes on what is described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/kettles-overview&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;theelectricbrewery&lt;/a&gt;, and I think they are about right for what's needed for a 10 gallon batch. The MLT is probably the one that is least used, since I don't often brew big beers. Although I recently brewed a 14% RIS and the 20 gallon MLT was full with grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T18:00:37.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11822" CreationDate="2014-02-25T18:02:04.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The HLT (Hot Liquor Tank) interestingly isn't there to hold wort or anything with alcohol (&lt;em&gt;liquor&lt;/em&gt; here is referring to a liquid being used in a process). It has a simple job: It holds and heats water to be used in the mash. You also add salts such as gypsum in the HLT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 10 gallon batches, a 5 gallon HLT absolutely not big enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, the answer to your question (on a 5.5 gallon batch) really depends on a case by case basis relative to your grain bill, boil time, sparge process, lauter deadspace, batch size and evap rate. To help clarify I'll use an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I'm doing a &lt;code&gt;5.5 gallon&lt;/code&gt; batch on a &lt;code&gt;13.5 lb&lt;/code&gt; grain bill with a grain absorption factor of &lt;code&gt;0.1 gal/lb&lt;/code&gt;, boil time at &lt;code&gt;60 minutes&lt;/code&gt;, evap rate of about &lt;code&gt;20%&lt;/code&gt;, deadspace at &lt;code&gt;.5 gallon&lt;/code&gt; and plan on batch sparging. Since I'm at a 20% evap rate, I need about &lt;code&gt;7 gallons for my boil&lt;/code&gt;. I would probably want to have about &lt;code&gt;4.72 gallons&lt;/code&gt; of strike water and &lt;code&gt;4.13 gallons&lt;/code&gt; of sparge water. Since the grain absorbs about &lt;code&gt;1.85 gallons&lt;/code&gt;, this would yield &lt;code&gt;7 gallons&lt;/code&gt; for the boil. In this specific case, if you filled and heated the HLT with your sparge water during the mash you'd be OK. But I honestly recommend getting a bigger pot for your HLT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start playing with the numbers, you can easily go over 5 gallons. For example even if you were doing 5 gallon batches, having a different grain bill or larger evap rate will absolutely increase the amount of water you'll need out of that pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6400" LastEditorUserId="6400" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T14:54:09.997" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T14:54:09.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11826" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-25T18:30:23.107" Score="4" ViewCount="8247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just finished my primary fermentation and have produced a cider that is coming in at 5.2%. I am about to bottle my cider and add some priming sugar to give it a bit of a fizz. I would like to try and flavor some of the ciders with a fruit coulis. am I correct in thinking that the natural sugar in the fruit should give the cider a natural fizz and I don't need to add any sugar? Also, I am a fan of a sweeter cider, I have been advise not to add more than a teaspoon of priming sugar, and to use a sugar substitute at the same stage if i wish to sweeten it. I have purchased Xylitol, I plan on trying a few combinations with the priming sugar/Xylitol &amp;amp; no additive fruit coulis. Does this all sound like it makes sense or am I just going to ruin my cider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6508" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T07:08:03.237" Title="Need advice on flavoring/sweetening my homebrew cider" Tags="|cider|fruit|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-26T01:58:50.113" Score="2" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took 4 medium beets, chopped them up in a medium dice, put the beets in a 1-gallon Pickl-It jar.  I added 1 ½ tablespoon unrefined sea salt, added filtered water to ½ inch below lid, and closed with an airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I allowed this to ferment for 1 ½ weeks in darkness.  I then tasted it, and the taste was very bad, like an acidic fizzy vinegar.  I have tried this many times, and I keep getting this same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what Im doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS I found the recipe here &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/1hdbx7S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/1hdbx7S&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6504" LastActivityDate="2020-08-23T17:24:09.243" Title="Why does my fermented beet kvass taste bad?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11827" CreationDate="2014-02-26T03:50:04.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the recipe, that's exactly the sort of flavour I'd expect. I've never made this beverage, but I've made sauerkraut and it's done in an almost identical way except using cabbage instead of beets. The fermentation is bacterial, and lactobacilli play a predominant role. These bacteria produce lactic acid which is what makes sauerkraut sour, and presumably why your kvass is sour. The fizzy part is due to ongoing fermentation producing carbon dioxide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the name &quot;kvass&quot; might be misapplied here. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kvass&quot;&gt;Kvass&lt;/a&gt; is used to describe a sort of beer made from bread. What you've made is much more like sauerkraut juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T03:50:04.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11829" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-26T05:46:25.373" Score="3" ViewCount="1586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a witbier last weekend from a recipe which called for a pound of unmalted wheat in the grain bill (along with 8 oz pilsner malt, 8 oz flaked wheat, 4 oz flaked oats, and 6 lbs dry malt extract). The unmalted wheat was too hard for the mill at the local homebrew shop. I tried crushing it with a rolling pin with no success. So i wound up using it whole, which left me wondering if that was really effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there specific techniques for crushing unmalted wheat (assuming you don't have a mill)? Could i grind it in a coffee mill, or a blender? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3420" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T18:50:16.237" Title="How to crush unmalted wheat?" Tags="|adjuncts|mill|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-26T13:32:23.813" Score="4" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only make IPA's and have read about some IPA makers introducing hops gradually over the boil vs. adding the the &quot;aroma&quot; dose during the last 5 or 10 minutes of the boil. I understand that hops added early in the boil are used for bittering and the late introduction hops add flavor and aroma. Does this hold true for the gradual addition of hops or does this process affect the outcome in a different manner?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T15:15:20.933" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T15:15:20.933" Title="How does gradual hop infusion affect flavor and aroma?" Tags="|techniques|hops|dry-hop|ipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10307" CreationDate="2014-02-26T13:46:50.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the fermentation temperature etc. then fermentation will take a different amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On average all of the wine I make ferments out to around 12% dry in around 5/7 days. If you have left it a month then I'm sure it will be done by now. Unless there has been any problems with the fermentation pausing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get yourself a hydrometer from a homebrew shop or online and measure the sugar content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cjatf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;I use this chart to calculate percentage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vP29y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vP29y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;0.900 reading is very dry&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6509" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-01-09T17:01:09.890" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T17:01:09.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11829" CreationDate="2014-02-26T13:50:40.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flaked wheat is your best bet.  It is unmalted as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if you truly have simply dried wheat you need to perform a cereal mash on that stuff to get at the starches (even if you did crush it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T13:50:40.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10599" CreationDate="2014-02-26T13:51:48.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it sounds like you either need more pomegranate or perhaps more of the colour has come out as part of the fining process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What finings have you used? As some fining are harsher than others and are able to take some of the colour out of a wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps next time you might want to add some red grape concentrate or perhaps some beetroot juice (not from concentrate). Perhaps you already have but just a suggestion without seeing your recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main thing is does it taste nice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6509" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T13:51:48.317" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11830" CreationDate="2014-02-26T13:57:56.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general ideas of hop bitterness, flavor and aroma related to time in the boil to hold true.  Continual hopping doesn't generally produce any different aromas or flavors in my experience.  In fact when over done the beer can taste fairly grassy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of too many brewers that do this still.  Its labor intensive and has a fairly low return for effort, compared with more interval hopping schedules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say that modern IPA methods seem to have evolved into a focused bittering charge at the start of the boil.  Brewers tend to be focusing on bigger and bigger additions late in the process or even post boil.  I am specifically talking about 10min additions, flame out or whirlpool additions (hop standing).  Furthermore, brewers seem to be getting more innovative with the duration and temperatures of their dry hop additions.  Including pulling hops out and adding new rounds of hops as a second dry hop regime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T13:57:56.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11826" CreationDate="2014-02-26T16:25:54.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to sweeten your cider you will have to add some type of non-fermenting sugar, such as a sweetener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried this in the past although I'm not too keen on the flavor of sweeteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could look at disgorgement. This is a process used in sparkling wine and champagne making whereby during secondary fermentation within the bottle and bottle is placed upside down so that the yeast falls at the lid/cap. The neck of the bottle is then frozen opened added a small amount of sugar water and water to top up and then re-capped. This should give you the sweater taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that you would have to brew it and stop it sweet or back sweeten it and then add CO2 in order to carbonate the drink, normally using a keg. (this can get expensive though)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding flavor you could experiment with fruit teabags and put that in during fermentation, I do this to make a fruit tea wine (fruit tea bags, grape juice from a carton) works very well and some great flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6509" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T16:25:54.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10417" CreationDate="2014-02-26T16:32:36.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the safe side I have always ensured that I remove the fruit after around a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its a fruit that I want to ensure I get a lot of flavor out of I would make sure its chopped up and mashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its a really easy fruit to go bad I would suggest added Campden tablets to the must, this will lower the risk of it turning bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always try removing the fruit after a week or so, and replace it with more. However if this is a high sugar fruit it will make your wine/cider stronger. And for normal yeast you will reach a point of around 18% where no more alcohol will be produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could infuse it with the fruit. in a similar way people age cider in whiskey barrels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6509" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-02-28T19:16:22.607" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T19:16:22.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11727" CreationDate="2014-02-26T16:35:10.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes the yeast does go dormant and starts to settle. If you add more sugar it is possible for the yeast to reactive and start fermenting again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what happens during secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6509" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T16:35:10.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11668" CreationDate="2014-02-26T16:41:04.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try adding some pectolase, mix it up and see if that fixes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't would I would try adding some stronger finings such as the Youngs 2 part sachet. These have never failed me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing all of that I suppose the last resort would be to use a wine filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6509" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T16:41:04.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11850" CreationDate="2014-02-26T16:48:37.857" Score="0" ViewCount="350" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so I got a homebrew starter kit for xmas about 5 years ago.  it contained 23 litres of prepared wort, a primary pail, a secondary glass carboy and nearly all the tools needed.  I still had to get the cleaning stuff though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, the kit sat in my parent's basement for the 5 years untouched.  I was careful to put the airlock into the carboy to prevent dust from entering, as I wasn't sure when i would start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't ever done anything like this, although I've seen a couple people ferment and bottle, and I've read up quite a bit before i started.  I took some notes here and I would like to get your input and advice.  will this batch work out? I know it might not taste perfect....  Will there be any toxins I should be aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I started with a &quot;FestaBrew Blonde Lager&quot; wort.  it's 5 years old, but I got fresh yeast for it.  I got a &quot;Lallemand Windsor Yeast&quot;, British -Style Beer Yeast. (0.388oz, expiry 01/2015)  I had asked the clerk at the brew shop what yeast I need for this lager work I had.  He didn't seem responsive, and all I understood from him is that any yeast will work.  With some research I understand now that any yeast SHOULD work.. but it's the yeast and temperature and time which define an ale or a lager.  The yeast I got was an ale yeast, so I'm trying to follow ale methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feb 22 @ 12am - Cleaned and sanitized the primary, and racking tube and my hydrometer and testing cylinder.  Poured in the wort, making sure to create lots of turbulence.  I then siphoned off a small sample to test later.  I boiled some water, poured 100ml into a sanitized glass, and waited for it to cool down to the ideal temperature that the yeast packet called for.  once at 35 Celsius, I added the yeast, and gave it a small stir to dissolve it.  Then I added it to the wort already in the primary, and gave the whole thing a small stir to evenly distribute it.  I then put the lid on and installed the airlock, with sanitizer in the airlock.  One thing I did notice at this point is that the lid didn't have a gasket and so there wasn't an air-tight seal.  I got a little concerned here.  The sample a siphoned off, without the yeast added had a S.G. of 1.045&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feb 22 @ 12pm - No airlock activity, rather it appears to be &quot;reversing&quot;, or vacuuming.  I burped the pail/airlock to prevent sanitizer from being sucked in. - probably due to the lid not having a gasket.  I could smell beer from the lid edges.  I peeked through the bunghole and it appears to be active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feb 23 @ 12pm - No airlock activity, but still having the vacuum effect.  Burped it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feb 23 @ 10:30pm - Peek through bunghole, yeast is active.  Burped the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feb 24 @ 7pm - No airlock activity, no vacuum effect.  No need to burp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feb 25 @ 9pm - No activity on airlock, racked into carboy.  Small sample gave a S.G. of 1.013, which indicates that there was some kind of activity.  The sample tastes like beer, and smells like beer.  The beer appears quite cloudy which I'm not sure about, and there was sediment in the pail, which I know is normal.  The airlock began to work immediately when i put it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feb 26 @ 6am - Airlock working just fine, cloudyness starting to fall, as there is about 1&quot; of clear beer at the top.  No yeast foam observed.  Installed stick on temp guage.  It reads about 65F or lower.  Ambient temp is 74F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here we are...  I would appreciate any feed back you have, good or bad.  I have a couple pictures of the cloudyness and the sludge.  But I don't know how to insert them here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6511" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T00:36:34.437" Title="First brewing experience, First kit. need advice" Tags="|beer|first-time-brewer|kits|starter|first-time|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-02-28T15:33:39.770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11842" CreationDate="2014-02-26T18:21:49.803" Score="5" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this great mulberry syrup I found.  I want to prime with it, and I forget how to figure this out with an unknown sugar source.  I see that John Palmer's &quot;How to Brew&quot; references measuring the gravity of honey (a variable ingredient) to figure out priming rates in How to Brew, but he mentions you could dilute it and measure it with your hydrometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, say you have some awesome backyard beekeeper's honey or other lovely sticky stuff you want to dilute into a priming liquid.  What steps do you take, and what's your math to figure out how to get, say, 2.5 volumes of CO2 into a 3 gallon batch of beer?  Or even a 5 gallon batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6512" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T20:48:33.970" Title="How can I prime by taking the gravity of the priming fluid?" Tags="|carbonation|original-gravity|priming-sugar|honey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11826" CreationDate="2014-02-26T19:00:24.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any fermentable sugar you add will convert to alcohol and in turn create CO2.  Any non-fermentable sweetner is a gamble on off flavors.  A suggestion would be to allow it to finish dry, add a dose of potassium sorbate to prevent refermentation, add a tested amount of apple juice concentrate to your liking for sweetness, keg and force carbonate the batch.  However, if you must  prime the batch,  artificial sweetners are your easiest choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T19:00:24.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11840" CreationDate="2014-02-26T20:48:33.970" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you follow a process like this, you won't be far off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dilute the syrup to create a 10% solution. E.g. add 10g of syrup to 90g of water and stir well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the specific gravity of the 10% solution, e.g. 1.030&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Express this as a fraction of a 10% solution of sucrose, which has specific gravity 1.040. So, our example of 1.030 is .75 the gravity of a 10% sucrose solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot;&gt;priming sugar calculator&lt;/a&gt; to determine how much sucrose to prime with. E.g 100g.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divide this number by the fraction derived in 3. E.g 100g/.75 = 133g. This is how much of the &lt;strong&gt;undiluted&lt;/strong&gt; syrup you need for priming.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that this only an approximation because we're not accounting for the increase in volume from the added priming syrup. If the syrup is very sweet (like honey), the effect of the additional volume is negligible. If it's not particularly sweet (like fruit juice, e.g.) then the effect is large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T20:48:33.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11826" CreationDate="2014-02-26T20:52:50.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The safest thing, though it's a bit of additional work, is to sweeten the cider in the glass. Put an ounce or two of concentrated apple juice in the bottom of your glass before pouring a bottle of cider. This technique adds a fresh apple taste, doesn't introduce any artificial sweetener off flavours, doesn't involve chemical stabilizers, and has no risk re-fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T20:52:50.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11848" CreationDate="2014-02-26T21:00:28.253" Score="4" ViewCount="1424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this is perhaps only one question, but there are a few different situations, namely&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to make a water/DME mixture for a starter, how long?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to prime with a sugar water mixture, how long?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to prime with gyle (4-6 week old wort from the boil), how long?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because I had been boiling for only a short period, a couple of minutes. I came across an EPA recommendation for 1 minute, or 3 minutes for high altitude (I am at ~6500ft where water boils at 200F), but also found some brewing sites recommending between 15 and 30 minutes. What I haven't found is why the times are different. What I suspect is that common bacteria are killed at 1-2 minutes, and perhaps more of the bacteria brewers are concerned with might take more, but I haven't found anything to support this. A friend pointed out there are some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/B/bacspores.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spores that survive 5432F rocket exhaust&lt;/a&gt;, so I understand you are never going to be completely sterile, but would like to understand why the guidelines cover a range and be able to make an informed decision about how long to boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T23:19:53.213" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T17:17:15.880" Title="How long do you boil liquid to be used in a beer?" Tags="|sanitation|boil|water|sterilization|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11846" CreationDate="2014-02-26T21:13:04.673" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#q=fermwrap&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;spd=17540634272955716106&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a &quot;Carboy Heater&quot; from Adventures in Homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#q=fermwrap&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;spd=4394287302096737472&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an &quot;Electric Fermentation Heater&quot; from Northern Brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just learned yesterday that &quot;Fermwrap&quot; is a product from MoreBeer. Looking at the pictures, the Fermwrap looks identical to the non branded products, but I've been able to find the non branded products cheaper than the Fermwrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went ahead and bought more Fermwraps just to be consistent with my previous purchases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, are they perfect substitutes for each other, or is one superior? Has anyone tried both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T21:23:21.983" Title="Is there a Material Difference between Fermwraps and Non-Branded fermwraps?" Tags="|temperature-control|fermwrap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11845" CreationDate="2014-02-26T21:23:21.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bigappleherp.com/Flex-Watt-Heat-Tape&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is Flex-Watt Heat Tape&lt;/a&gt;, as used in herpological applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are all exactly the same stuff, the homebrew products are just cut to fit carboys and pre-assembled. It's just a big resistive element, really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T21:23:21.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11844" CreationDate="2014-02-26T21:38:36.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;10 min boil extra 1/2 cups water, what you may lose during that time. DME/Prime Sugar. Why risk losing your beer over saving few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6042" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T21:38:36.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11844" CreationDate="2014-02-26T22:02:24.130" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the factor isn't that you want sterile wort, but sanitized wort. You may not get sterile wort from boiling, but that isn't a problem. The wort is surrounded by barely sanitary air, so it's going to be contaminated to some degree from the get go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key point is that the massive yeast population (&gt;100bn cells for a 5 gallon batch) scavenge dissolved oxygen from the wort, drive off headspace oxygen with carbon dioxide, and reduce the wort to below 4.5pH, all of which make for an unthriving enviroment for all common bacterial contaminants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a short boil period, really even just patuerization over 170&amp;deg;F/76&amp;deg;C is sufficient for short term storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For long term storage of wort, there are no yeast, so it must be sterile. Then you have to heat under pressure to 240&amp;deg;F for 15 minutes to ensure all bacteria and spores are destroyed, as per regular food canning guidelines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T06:49:48.283" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T06:49:48.283" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11829" CreationDate="2014-02-26T23:11:57.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt that the wheat was too hard for your LHBS' mill (which is likely motorized and has heavy stainless steel rollers). The issue is that the gap is too big, and the knurled rollers have nothing to grab onto. So the wheat falls between the rollers without being crushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reknowned homebrewer and beer historian Randy Mosher states, &quot;generally roller mills don't do such a great job with huskless grains as wheat, which should be ground very finely. I use an old grocery store coffee mill, which works briiliantly for this.&quot; (Mosher, Randy; &quot;Radical Brewing&quot;, 1st edition, p. 40.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I ran malted wheat through the LHBS mill several times, and then resolved the unsatsifactory crush with a rolling pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think a blender would work, unless maybe if you had a supercharged one like a Vitamix. Source: experience - my mother-in-law tried to make wheat flour with my really nice drink blender/ice crusher, and ended up burning out the coupling within a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt;: deleted inaccurate info on cereal mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T20:17:15.480" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T20:17:15.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11839" CreationDate="2014-02-27T00:36:34.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To clear the cloudiness, you could cold crash it.  The sludge is normal, but crashing might clear things up a bit.  Time will help too.  I mean, c'mon you already waited 5 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others said, sounds like fermentation was fine (hopefully it is not infected in any way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my advice would be to wait a week for clearing, cold crash, and then enjoy your English Steam Blonde.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6401" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T00:36:34.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-27T17:58:58.687" Score="10" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of brewing a 20 gallon batch in two parts on two different days back to back. Has anyone tried this before?&#xA;I am dealing with  a maximum volume of 15 gallons in my brew pot but, my fermenter will hold up to 24 gallons. I'm thinking if I treat each batch as it's own and add the second days batch to the first's I should be ok right? Should I use my normal yeast pitching rates for each batch or, adjust the yeast for the total volume and pitch on the first day?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T21:04:30.283" Title="Two tens to One twenty" Tags="|brewing|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11851" CreationDate="2014-02-27T18:33:49.507" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of commercial breweries do that.  Most that I know pitch a normal, or slightly larger, amount of yeast for the first batch.  By the time the second is added, there has been enough yeast growth to accommodate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T18:33:49.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-27T18:56:04.757" Score="6" ViewCount="5109" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does one make a &quot;Hop Tea&quot; for taste testing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to get a better understanding of different hop flavor profiles. I have heard of making hop teas to do taste tests but I wonder if it's easy as it sounds (hot water+ hops-steep). Has anyone done this, and if there is more than one variety what can be done in between each variety to cleanse the palate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T19:09:18.817" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T06:42:47.577" Title="How to prepare Hop Tea?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11853" CreationDate="2014-02-28T01:37:42.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My version of a hop tea is exactly that. I make my hop tea by boiling 1 Cup water in pot and take it off the boil and let the hops(roughly 25gm for a 22L batch) sit for 10 minutes in the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I like the flavor then I add that to the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may not be the correct way but it is how I do it and I have got great results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T01:37:42.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11857" CreationDate="2014-02-28T02:38:20.973" Score="3" ViewCount="9666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing my second brew after great success with the well documented &lt;a href=&quot;http://brooklynbrewshop.com/1-gallon-beer-mixes/everyday-ipa-mix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brooklyn Brewshop Everyday IPA&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time is the exact opposite, random recipe and random grains. I went to a brew shop and had the guy make me a 1 gallon Irish Stout kit for St. Paddy's day. I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewexchange.net/homebrew_recipe/pico-espresso-stout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recipe online for a coffee Stout&lt;/a&gt; and made it a little less than 2 weeks ago. It's time to bottle but it doesn't say anything about adding priming sugars. Is it standard that these always need to be added? Or do the chocolate roasted malts have the sugars already. Also how will I know when it's ready after bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6520" LastActivityDate="2023-04-18T03:22:16.840" Title="Do I Always need to add Sugar when bottling?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|stout|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11855" CreationDate="2014-02-28T02:58:05.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically if the batch still has sugars left (i.e the sugar hasn't been eaten by the yeast) in it then you wont need any extra while bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am guessing that if you bottle with a higher than expected FG you may get some carbonation in the bottles as the brew continues to ferment inside the bottles but have never tried this myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will work on the same principle as &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewingcaps.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pat Mack's&lt;/a&gt; home brew caps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T02:58:05.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11855" CreationDate="2014-02-28T03:02:53.130" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to add the right amount of priming sugar to carbonate the beer in the bottles. There are lots of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot;&gt;online priming sugar calculators&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, you could bottle the beer before fermentation had completed, and let the remaining sugars carbonate the beer, but this would be &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; hard to do right. If you bottle with too much residual sugar, your bottle could easily explode, too little and you'll get flat beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T03:02:53.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-28T04:07:27.830" Score="1" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am making a wheat beer and am adding lemons and oranges into the second stage of fermenting. I have heard through the beer vine that shandy's are lemonade and beer. Can I just add the lemonade or the soda pop before the bottling, and can it substitute the priming sugar? Also what would you recommend pop or lemonade? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6478" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-02-28T04:21:58.203" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T15:13:43.647" Title="Should I use lemonade or soda pop when making a summer shandy?" Tags="|fermentation|fruit|racking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-02-28T15:40:06.183" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11858" CreationDate="2014-02-28T12:37:16.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its best to make a great wheat beer and mix it in the glass.  That's how its done traditionally and you can make it to suit your taste that day.  Just because our American commercialized culture is putting them in the same bottle doesn't mean its the best way to do it.  They have access to more tools than we do as homebrewers for controlling the post packaging outcomes regarding yeast and carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T12:37:16.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11855" CreationDate="2014-02-28T16:25:50.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is standard to add sugar for priming, as most beers are fermented to completion before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chocolate roasted malt does not have extra sugars, exactly. The kilning process is going to convert some sugars, caramelize some and also produce some other color and flavor compounds, but those sugars are going to be present (and some unfermentable) in the initial fermentation. As the fermentation is done to completion, the fermentable sugars will be consumed and the unfermentable sugars not, and you will still need to add priming sugar for bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will know when priming is complete when you open the bottle and see evidence of carbonation. :) One thing people do is to prime/fill a plastic bottle that's been squeezed to remove any extra air, then wait for the results of priming to re-inflate the bottle. Like fermentation, your best bet is to just wait for a reasonable amount of time and adjust your process in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T16:25:50.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11863" CreationDate="2014-02-28T16:46:52.750" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit new to extract brewing and am a bit confused about the following recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/light-ale/item/1309-red-hawk-ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Red Hawk Ale&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says it requires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6 lbs. amber malt extract&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this refer to 6 lbs. of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/spraydried-malt-extract-amber-3kg-p-182.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;amber spray-malt&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/coopers-malt-extract-amber-15kg-p-816.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;amber liquid malt extract&lt;/a&gt; or either?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T16:57:53.273" Title="Recipe calling for LME or DME" Tags="|dme|lme|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11862" CreationDate="2014-02-28T16:57:53.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume they mean liquid malt extract as the specifically mention dry light malt extract below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T16:57:53.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11866" CreationDate="2014-02-28T21:00:48.980" Score="2" ViewCount="1351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a package of Briess Golden Light DME, and I noticed on the back it had a date stamp of 130923 10:57, which I assume to mean it was produced on Sept. 23, 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It got me wondering if DME actually had a shelf life. How long will a sealed package of DME remain useful as a brewing ingredient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T21:43:31.160" Title="What is the shelf life for DME?" Tags="|ingredients|extract|malt|dme|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11864" CreationDate="2014-02-28T21:11:31.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the first item in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=briess+dme+shelf+life&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;search results for &quot;briess dme shelf life&quot;:&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets/PDFs/Briess_PISB_CBWTradDarkDME.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Briess &quot;Product Information &amp;amp; Typical Analysis&quot; sheet for a similar DME [PDF Warning]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;STORAGE AND SHELF LIFE&#xA;Store in a cool, dry location.&#xA;Unopened bags best if used within 24 months from date of manufacture.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-02-28T21:43:31.160" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T21:43:31.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11864" CreationDate="2014-02-28T21:29:17.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stored cool, dry and out of sunlight, DME is good for 2+ years. The main issue is with it picking up moisture, when it then becomes clumpy. But once boiled it's still good and you can use it up to 5 years in small quantities (say 1-2lb/0.5-1kg in a 5 gallon batch.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T21:29:17.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11855" CreationDate="2014-02-28T22:06:05.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your case, I believe you are asking whether you can bottle without adding anything and expect the beer to carbonate based on residual sugar -- on that point, yes, you do need to add some sort of fermentable substance for the yeast to produce the CO2 for in-bottle carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for the record, if we read your question literally, then no -- there are other ways to carbonate your bottled beer other than adding priming sugar (such as dextrose, sucrose, honey, etc.). It is also possible to carbonate bottles by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) bottling before fermentation is complete as noted by @Tobias;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) krausening, which is adding fermenting wort (krausen) from another batch;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) adding gyle aka &lt;em&gt;speis&lt;/em&gt;, which is part of your unfermented wort, which you reserved and held sterile before fermentation; or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(4) filling bottles with pre-carbonated beer from a keg or other CO2-pressurized system, often with a counterpressure bottle filler at the homebrew level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Items (1) through (3) require some technical skill and math to do with precision and consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit:&lt;/em&gt; correct terminology&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-03-02T21:33:25.250" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T21:33:25.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2014-03-01T02:26:03.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pectic enzymes and the polysaccharide that they break down, pectin, are naturally occurring in apples. To get them to break down your apples for juice, though, you would need to wait for the fruit to ripen to the brink of rotting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, you would need to add pectic enzymes to the apples. The enzymes will break down the pectin and probably other polysaccharides that are holding the apples' cells together. Freezing will help things along as the ice's expansion will help burst cell walls. You would definitely need to warm the mixture up, though. I'm not familiar with any enzymes that work well while frozen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6525" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T02:26:03.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11829" CreationDate="2014-03-01T16:13:48.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As brewchez indicated, flaked wheat can be used directly. However, if that isn't easily obtainable for you, your next best option is to use a blender. You can blend 1-2 cups at a time this way. It helps to add a little bit of water to the mix to help keep the kernels from bouncing around as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just keep pulsing the blender until the wheat kernels are the consistency you want. There are pics at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2011/10/16/wheat-malt-in-all-grain-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wheat Malt in All Grain Brewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the linked article talks about it in terms of milling malted wheat this way. However, the same principle applies to unmalted wheat - some people use a blender to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imperfecthomemaker.com/2012/03/how-to-grind-wheat-in-blender.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;grind wheat into flour for baking&lt;/a&gt;. You are doing the same, just stopping before it's gets that fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastEditorUserId="13332" LastEditDate="2016-07-04T18:50:16.237" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T18:50:16.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-01T16:52:41.350" Score="3" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I added sugar, bottled, then put them into the fridge instead of leaving them at 68-76 degrees for a week. What should I do now, or is it too late to save the batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6527" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T17:44:00.707" Title="Bottled and right into the fridge" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11870" CreationDate="2014-03-01T17:25:09.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to worry about &quot;saving&quot; the batch.  Even if you left them in the fridge they'd still carb, just very slowly.  It might take months.  But there's absolutely nothing wrong with taking them out of the fridge for a couple weeks to carb, then returning them to the fridge once the process is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T17:25:09.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11870" CreationDate="2014-03-01T17:44:00.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast will still carbonate at fridge temperatures; just very slowly. Think months instead of weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume you put the beer in the fridge as you want to start trying to drink them. My advice would be to take your beer out of the fridge, and let them warm up to room temperature (65-75 degrees), and just stick them in a closet for a a few weeks. If you decide you want to try one to see how the beer is carbonating or maturing, just pop a bottle in the fridge a few hours before you plan to consume it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the style of beer you have made, you may want to allow your beer longer or shorter time to condition prior to drinking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T17:44:00.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11874" CreationDate="2014-03-01T20:43:15.857" Score="2" ViewCount="608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just thinking about oxidization at bottling time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you (accidentally) introduced oxygen into your beer when bottling, wouldn't this be used by the yeast the same way it is when you oxygenate your wort before fermentation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IE, wouldn't any oxygen in your beer merely be used by the suspended yeast to multiply before the yeast switches back over to anaerobic metabolic pathways and begin to consume the sugars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T00:22:06.987" Title="Does oxygen introduced during bottling get consumed by the yeast during carbing / conditioning?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11873" CreationDate="2014-03-02T00:22:06.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aerobic is for propagation, anaerobic converts sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide. I doubt a small amount would hurt, like from transfer or minor splashing, but if you intentionally injected oxygen, like how you might aerate the wort prior to fermentation, I would imagine it would not carbonate well and produce a lot of yeast, giving it a &quot;yeasty&quot; character. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T00:22:06.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-02T01:44:26.583" Score="1" ViewCount="2281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a Witbier with tangerine peel and coriander. Though &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381837&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Randy Mosher's Radical Brewing&lt;/a&gt; suggests chamomile as a good &quot;secret ingredient&quot; for Witbiers, I didn't have any on hand when brewing, so i missed my chance to add it to the boil (and I've wondered how well the taste and aroma would persist anyway). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now i have a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add it directly to the secondary (akin to dry hopping), maybe after a little boiling to avoid introducing bacteria&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make some chamomile tea and add that at bottling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a spice potion with vodka or the like, and add that at bottling time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question&lt;/strong&gt;: which is most likely to impart the best taste and (secondarily) aroma? And how much would you suggest for a 5 gallon batch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want it to still taste like beer, not chamomile tea, but I'd like to impart a reasonable amount of flavor to the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concerns I respectively have for the the above options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not sure the essence will get released without boiling. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've seen other recommendations for this, with some complaining the result was too strong. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've seen one opinion elsewhere that this spice potion approach doesn't wind up producing much flavor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3420" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-03-04T14:40:56.050" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T14:40:56.050" Title="What's the best technique to add chamomile?" Tags="|flavor|secondary-fermentation|spices|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1588" CreationDate="2014-03-02T01:48:17.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding something like fruit introduces additional fermentable sugar to the process. If you do that at bottling time, you may run a risk of creating &quot;bottle bombs&quot;. So the sources i've read suggest doing that in a secondary, with the same controls as for a primary fermentation (an airlock or something equivalent). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3420" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T01:48:17.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11878" CreationDate="2014-03-02T06:25:11.890" Score="5" ViewCount="12556" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, I am making a strong (imperial-ish) red ale. My original gravity was 1.081. I intended to bring it to a final point at most of 1.020, or if I can even lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was using 2 packs of WLP004 (Irish Ale Yeast). According to reviews it is possible to reach 8-8.5% of ABV with it. After 5 days fermenting process stopped and for last 5 days there was no activity. The gravity stopped at 1.030 and the ale a little bit too sweet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature of the carboy was within 64F-68F depending on time of the day. I am considering adding more yeast and keeping a temperature at 68F-69F (by using a heating belt at night).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I add WLP004 or can I use different one and combine them with WLP001 or WLP07? How much should I add? What are my other choices?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm kinda of trying to finish the bath in 2 weeks and condition in bottles for another 3 weeks and serve it by the first weekend in April... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you, everybody. I found an answer. Apparently, the rest of the sugars in my beer are not fermentable. I tried to run the recipe through the recipe calculator, and it says that with WLP004 the final gravity would be 1.029. If I used WLP007 it would get to 1.026.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With IBU of 86 and 1 week of dry hopping with 1oz of Simcoe, it is not bad. Not quite what I was hopping to get, but still good (I'll just call it a know-how). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be more accurate next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. I don't have enough space for full grain, thus I'm doing extract beer. With less control over my wort, it is little bit tricky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-03-12T20:05:04.837" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T14:27:13.907" Title="Adding yeast to secondary" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|secondary-fermentation|high-gravity|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11877" CreationDate="2014-03-02T16:16:07.510" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this point you don't know if the fermentation is stuck or finished.  Despite the yeast attenuation rating, it's the fermentability of the wort that determines attenuation.  Alcohol tolerance is not the problem.  More yeast might help or it might not.  Before you do anything you should try a fast ferment test to determine if there are any more fermentable sugars in the wort.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fast_Ferment_Test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fast_Ferment_Test&lt;/a&gt;   If the test shows you still have fermentable sugars, go ahead and add more yeast.  If not, the beer is done and ready for packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2014-03-02T18:17:15.563" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T18:17:15.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11875" CreationDate="2014-03-03T15:52:51.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go with the tea.  You'll extract the flavor and sanitize the chamomile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T15:52:51.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11886" CreationDate="2014-03-03T16:14:29.873" Score="3" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was interested in brewing &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/fruit-beer/item/1184-northern-india-pale-ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; recipe but I have a couple of questions regarding the grain used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;0.5 lb. crystal malt, 50° Lovibond&#xA;0.5 lb. toasted malt, 25° Lovibond&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this refer to crushed grain because it's an extract brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the toasted malt - would &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/biscuit-whole-brewferm-ebc-50-1kg-p-2109.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; be a good substitute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Available at last: the real Belgian BISCUIT malt. This very&#xA;  light-roasted malt with only 50 EBC of colour, gives a biscuit/bread&#xA;  aroma to your beer. Use 5-15%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6 lbs. gold light malt extract&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this refer to plain old light malt extract? The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/ingredientsadditivessteriliser-liquid-malt-extract-c-3_38.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt; I order off doesn't seem to have specifically &quot;gold light&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T22:46:22.957" Title="Questions regarding ingredients specified in recipe" Tags="|extract|grain|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11844" CreationDate="2014-03-03T17:17:15.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate answer my own question, but I believe I have cobbled together at least some of the information I am looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mdma pointed out, you need a pressure cooker or an autoclave (performed correctly) to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sterilization_%28microbiology%29#Heat_sterilization_of_foods&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sterilize&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For safe drinking water, &lt;a href=&quot;http://water.epa.gov/action/advisories/drinking/upload/2009_02_03_criteria_humanhealth_microbial_giardiafs.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;common&quot; bacteria are killed in 1 minute (or 3 minutes at altitude)&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other reference I could find was that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sterilization_%28microbiology%29#Other_heat_sterilization_methods&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;most&quot; bacteria are killed by a 15 minute boil&lt;/a&gt;. This isn't referenced in the wiki article and the comment is terse, so I don't think this is definitive... but I do think it's notable that it mentions &quot;most&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this last statement kind of lends credence to user6042's comment about the risk. Being at high altitude, I would probably adjust that to 20 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the help! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T17:17:15.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1335" CreationDate="2014-03-03T20:45:34.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend thinks out living room looks cool with the couch semi-diagonal across the corner of the room. perfect space for 2 7-gal fermenter buckets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T20:45:34.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11851" CreationDate="2014-03-03T21:04:30.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You guys did it the easy way! Wish I read this 18 months ago! I did 2 batches, one after the other because it didnt occur to me that I could wait a day. I just made 2 extract &quot;kits&quot;. while the 1st was boiling, the 2nd was steeping. I wanted all of it to ferment together for uniformity or consistancy. it was all for a party. My problem though, was bottling. I only had 6.5 gallon bottling buckets and 10 gallons of beer. I had to bribe a friend with a 6-pack to help so the process went quickly. (I was too green to realize that the carbonation takes more than the time it takes to bottle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T21:04:30.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-03T21:20:04.313" Score="2" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the typical &lt;em&gt;conversion efficiency&lt;/em&gt; during a normal single-rest mash (152 F/67 C, 3 l/kg)? I usually get around 80 %, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Understanding_Efficiency&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Braukaiser&lt;/a&gt; claims that it should be close to 100 %. I mash for 60 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T07:26:47.130" Title="Conversion efficiency" Tags="|mash|efficiency|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11881" CreationDate="2014-03-03T22:46:22.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those old Brew Your Own recipes are a little vague on ingredients, and hard to figure out.  You have an added handicap of being in the Eurozone, it seems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likely the 3.3 bs. of amber light extract is LME (because in the U.S. they sell it in 3.3 lb. cans and plastic milk jugs), and you can substitute a 1.5 kg can of Coopers Light Malt Extract or the Premium Light. My guess is that the 6.0 lbs. of gold light extract is also LME (rather than what you call spray malt and we call DME) because U.S. recipes usually do not use so much DME. - I would go with Coopers Amber Malt Extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grains are going to have to be crushed -- you will steep them in hot water as per the recipe, and then remove them before adding your malt extracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For toasted malt, this is going to be similar to &quot;victory malt&quot; or this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/biscuit-malt-crushed-grains-500g-brewferm-p-153.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;biscuit malt/amber malt&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. If you can't get it, you can make it at home by using WHOLE pale malt and toasting it in your oven at 350°F/175°C for 10-15 minutes. You will need to store it in a brown paper bag for two weeks to allow the harsh bitterness from kilning to mellow.  Crush it with a rolling pin until husks are separated and vast majority of grains are broken into bits (and a little bit of flour is OK) before using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slainte!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T22:46:22.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11877" CreationDate="2014-03-03T23:31:49.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fast ferment is a good idea. What temp did you mash at? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ending at 1.030 is pretty high.  You can throw in some champagne yeast and it won't change the character much, if at all.  You can also throw in white labs 090 or 099, be careful of the 099 it can ferment very low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T23:31:49.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11889" CreationDate="2014-03-04T01:50:14.063" Score="8" ViewCount="23724" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm force carbonating my first batch of homebrew. I bought a 5-gallon Cornelius keg and switched out an empty CO2 tank with a fresh one. The tank pressure started out at 500 psi, but when I turned up the pressure on the keg (filled most of the way with beer) to 20 psi the tank pressure started dropping rapidly. It settled out at 400 psi. The tank pressure did stop dropping, so I don't think I have a leak. Does this sound like a normal amount of CO2 to use up when force carbonating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3251" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T16:43:40.430" Title="How much CO2 should I expect to use up when force carbonating?" Tags="|kegging|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11888" CreationDate="2014-03-04T02:19:49.670" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tank-side pressure is mostly measuring the temperature of the CO₂ tank, not the actual amount of CO₂ remaining. Above the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triple_point&quot;&gt;triple-point of CO₂ at about 517 kPa ~ 75 psi&lt;/a&gt;, the pressure reading is dominated not by the amount of CO₂, but the temperature, which relates to the fraction of gas vs. liquid in that equilibrium. You'll notice your CO₂ tank will basically stay around 500-600 psi until it quickly degrades down to nothing over the course of the last few days. Like propane, measuring the weight of the tank (minus the tare weight of the &lt;em&gt;tank&lt;/em&gt; itself) is the best way to understand how much CO₂ is actually used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're force carbonating to approximately 2 volumes of CO₂ for a 5 gallon batch, that's … I think around 75 grams CO₂/batch. A 5lb CO₂ tank is about 2300 grams, or about 30 batches. You'll probably lose a lot more to leaks, headspace and over-pressure venting than actual forced carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T02:19:49.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11885" CreationDate="2014-03-04T07:26:47.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a typical conversion efficiency for homebrewers since it very much depends upon the nature of the equipment. Mash tun shape/depth and use of recirculation will have a big impact. If you pushed me for a figure, I'd say anywhere from 80-98% is typical for mash conversion efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measure the SG of the wort continually throughout the mash, and find that often conversion is still ongoing after 90 minutes (my usual mash time) since the SG of the wort is still increasing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stirring the mash, recirculating, using a sufficiently fine crush, appropriate water to grist ratio, optimum pH, and giving enough time should help you reach close to 100% mash conversion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, your actual extract will be less since there are losses during lautering and sparging, but getting the mash close to 100% conversion efficiency is much easier than improving lautering or sparge efficiency, since it typically doesn't involve changes to the equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T07:26:47.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11893" CreationDate="2014-03-04T10:25:25.340" Score="2" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a quick question regarding grain usage in home-brewing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Used at the rate of 3 to 15 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use 5-15%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this refer to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/biscuit-malt-crushed-grains-500g-brewferm-p-153.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Example page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T12:47:45.067" Title="Grain usage percentage" Tags="|grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11736" CreationDate="2014-03-04T12:38:22.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it turns out that the ends on my tap are 5/8&quot;, and on the gas in there is an additional component that converts 5/8&quot; to 3/4&quot; and has a one-way valve in between, which is necessary. I did not convert to a ball-lock system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought these components, and now everything works, though I still can't disassemble the keg:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.candirect.de/CO2-Anschlussschlauch-fuer-KEGS-mit-3-4-Muttern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.candirect.de/CO2-Anschlussschlauch-fuer-KEGS-mit-3-4-Muttern&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.candirect.de/Mini-Zapfhahn-mit-Bier-KEG-Zapfkopfanschluss&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.candirect.de/Mini-Zapfhahn-mit-Bier-KEG-Zapfkopfanschluss&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1770" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T12:38:22.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11891" CreationDate="2014-03-04T12:47:45.067" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That means you would use it at 3-15% of your total grain bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you had a recipe that used used 10lbs of grain in total. They are recommending that you wouldn't want more than 4.8oz-1.5lb of this amount to be Biscuit Malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They suggest these limits, because the flavors imparted by these grains can possibly overwhelm other components of the beer. That said, if you find a recipe that sounds good that uses a malt like this in higher proportion than suggested - brew on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T12:47:45.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11895" CreationDate="2014-03-04T17:28:43.063" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to brewers-friend, I am short &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/?og=1.068&amp;amp;units=metric&amp;amp;batchsize=20&amp;amp;sugarscale=sg&amp;amp;pitchrate=1.0&amp;amp;yeasttype=dry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;139 billion yeast cells&lt;/a&gt; for a recipe I was estimating. I was planning on trying something along the lines of &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/fruit-beer/item/1184-northern-india-pale-ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this recipe&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My original idea was to re-hydrate a packet of Safale S04 and chuck it in. Most of my brews had an F.G between 1.010 to 1.015 but I have not brewed a beer with this high of an O.G&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is brewers-friend being a bit conservative with their estimates or should I take some action to guarantee a good F.G?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastEditorUserId="6522" LastEditDate="2014-03-04T17:57:43.580" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T17:57:43.580" Title="Is a yeast starter required for this recipe" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|pitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11894" CreationDate="2014-03-04T17:52:43.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, a couple things.  One, don't make a starter for dry yeast.  It has many more cells than liquid so a starter isn't needed.  In addition, dry yeast is coated with a nutrient and if you make a starter that nutrient won't be available in your beer.  Second, the OG isn't all that high.  A single pack of rehydrated dry yeast will be plenty.  Make it easy on yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T17:52:43.040" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11897" CreationDate="2014-03-05T13:27:37.103" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactobacillus_delbrueckii_subsp._bulgaricus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on Lacto yogurt cultures&lt;/a&gt; I notice a reference to beer. In a general statement they claim &lt;em&gt;&quot;lactic acid bacteria can contribute to the overall appearance, aroma, taste, and/or mouthfeel&quot;...&lt;/em&gt; I'm familiar the lacto aroma and taste, but never considered the effects on appearance. Is this true, and if so, in what way, or is it just misinformation on the internet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-03-07T16:47:54.977" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T16:47:54.977" Title="How does Lacto effect apperance?" Tags="|yeast|lactobacillus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11896" CreationDate="2014-03-05T17:46:18.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lactobacillus delbrueckii does very little to effect the appearance of your beer.  In terms of flocculation (dropping out of suspension in the beer, leaving a clear appearance), I would compare it to a medium/high flocculation Saccharomyces Cerevisiae strain.  With proper aging and use of fining agents if desired, it will not impart a significant haze on your beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The common reason for the perception that lacto imparts a haze is because it is often used in part, or as a blend with other low flocculating microbes such as the various strains of Brettanomyces (to help fight off the production of diacetyl which Brett chews right through), which is low in flocculation and can very easily leave a very cloudy beer.  In fact, the cloudiest beer I ever produced came from fermenting a farmhouse style with a blend of WLP653 (Brettanomyces lambicus) and (WLP644 Brettanomyces bruxellensis Trois).  I didn't cold crash it, and when pouring, it was as thick in appearance as a fruit juice with off-putting levels of yeast settling to the bottom of each glass poured, but I digress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you ferment along with another yeast strain (wild or otherwise), the addition of Lactobacillus in your fermentation will not effect the appearance to any measurable degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T17:46:18.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11727" CreationDate="2014-03-06T06:07:34.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast goes through an aerobic (oxygen consuming) and anaerobic (non-oxygen consuming) life cycle in your fermenter. The first phase is the one in which the yeast multiplies and becomes fruitful. During this time, very little CO2 and alcohol are produced, but sugars and proteins are getting consumed. The cells are spending all their time making more cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all the oxygen is gone, the yeast switch to anaerobic metabolism. This is the phase where the majority of sugars are consumed and basically all the alcohol and CO2 are produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the yeast begin to run out of fermentable sugars (e.g. small sugars) and fermentation comes to an end (a relative term here), they become more and more desperate to find food. This is when more complex metabolic pathways are activated and some &quot;scrubbing&quot; can take place. This is also what you would typically refer to as the secondary and conditioning. Basically, the yeast are beginning to starve and are trying to eat less and less palatable sources of energy including some of their own wastes (e.g. diacetyls).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any really firm data on what &quot;enough&quot; time is in this last phase. Basically, it's part of the art of brewing. You want to have enough time in the secondary to let your flavors mature and part of that is the yeast searching for food. Part of it is other obscenely complicated organic chemistry (read: black magic). For many beers, this is a week or two. Typically, the higher the OG, the longer you will want to condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6525" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T06:07:34.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11902" CreationDate="2014-03-06T16:59:31.607" Score="0" ViewCount="1169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/item/2349-gose&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gose&lt;/a&gt; fermenting now that should be ready to bottle this weekend.  My homebrewing setup is very new (I've only been doing it for about 3 months), so I don't have temperature control during fermentation.  However, my basement is very cold this time of year (40-50°F).  I'm considering moving the fermenter (plastic bucket type) from my kitchen down to the basement for a few days in the hope that the lower temperature will improve the clarity of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How risky is it to move the fermenter near the end of fermentation?  I'm worried that moving it down the stairs will cause sloshing and aeration, or disturb the trub and nullify any clarifying effect from the chilling.  I added a Whirlfloc tablet near the end of the boil, does that reduce the benefit of cold crashing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6057" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T21:17:00.020" Title="Benefits of cold crashing vs risks of moving fermenter" Tags="|cold-crash|clarification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1335" CreationDate="2014-03-06T17:18:10.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i've never had a problem in socal.. there are definitely 20°f temp shifts from day to night, maybe from 50's to 80's.  honestly, i don't find any issue.  this is a 2bed room 2 bath appt with basically no heat and no ac.  i just keep it out of direct light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i've never tested it side by side with one thermally isolated, but my basic recipes work just fine like this.  i know and understand the urge to complicate something we love, but starting simply has worked well for me so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6545" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T17:18:10.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11900" CreationDate="2014-03-06T17:44:41.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would certainly move it down there and just do my bottling down there as well so as not to disturb the sediment again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cold crash all my beer and I sometimes use gelatin (plain knox) once the beer is cold to further clarify it. The trub will be disturbed by carrying it down stairs, but if you have enough time, the cold (with or without the gelatin) will help it clump and drop. I would do it for 4 days if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2119" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T17:44:41.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11900" CreationDate="2014-03-06T21:17:00.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the beer sits for 4-5 days, any disturbed sediment will settle out again, and then some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Winter, I cold crash in my garage, and then rack to the bottling bucket in the garage before moving back inside (be sure to cover the spigot with a sanitized plastic bag and keep everything sanitary). I put the bucket on top of a crate when I start cold crashing, so I can use gravity to transfer beer.  That way, I don't have to disturb the sediment again by moving the bucket, nor do I have to bottle in a cold location. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: No need to warm the beer up before bottling, but use the warmest post-fermentation temp for the priming sugar calculator, not the cold temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T21:17:00.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2915" CreationDate="2014-03-06T22:20:51.583" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is possible, but not in a scientifically measurable way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold one of your bottles of beer up to the light so you can see the air gap that expands from the top of the bottle down to the top of the beer in the bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quickly turn the bottle upside down then back again, with a slight amount of force, but no need to shake it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Observe the air gap in the bottle and notice the amount, if any, of bubbles forming at the top of the beer. If the beer is lighter in color, also notice the bubbles floating to the top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Through trial and error, I have found this method to be fairly accurate in predicting the level of carbonation in a bottle, but as I said, it's not something you can measure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can compare store bought beer bottles to get an idea of what to look for, but keep in mind that different styles yield different levels of carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T22:20:51.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3279" CreationDate="2014-03-07T14:55:14.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've replaced the yeast that came with a beer kit with wine yeast doubled the recommended sugar level and even though it took a month to do its  thing the results were dramatic . I love Carlsberg Special Brew and my own brew wipes the floor with it when it comes to alcohol content , taste is o.k. and its a wee bit cloudy but it's very drinkable and leaves one very , very drunk after only 2 or 3 pints&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6550" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T14:55:14.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14973" CreationDate="2014-03-07T17:57:56.880" Score="5" ViewCount="14547" Body="&lt;p&gt;What concentration of bleach (or Sodium hypochlorite) diluted in water is necessary to sanitize bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much time is necessary to keep the bottles immersed in the solution, or is sufficient to use a bottle washer that squirts the bleach inside of the bottles (commonly used with 'no-rinse' sanitizers like Star San, alcohol, etc)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much time is necessary to wait until the bottles can be used (filled) when not rinsed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-03-15T13:34:18.780" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T20:48:40.333" Title="Sanitizing with bleach without rinsing" Tags="|bottling|sanitation|bottles|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11909" CreationDate="2014-03-07T18:05:15.693" Score="1" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to handle a higher than expected extraction efficiency without compromising the flavor of the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm brewing a blonde ale for example, aiming for a 72% extraction efficiency and end up with an 80% extraction efficiency, it's going to significantly alter the character of the final beer.  What should have been a 4% ABV might end up at 5.2% ABV, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Logic tells me that diluting the wort by adding additional water will compensate for the higher than expected extraction, but it seems that diluting the collected wort will affect not only the color, but also the flavor as the added water didn't have the opportunity to mingle with the malt during the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:45:01.223" Title="How to Compensate for Higher than Expected Extraction Efficiency" Tags="|mash|efficiency|lauter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11908" CreationDate="2014-03-07T18:51:46.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, it would change the color, but isn't the color already altered due to the increased density of the wort?  By adding water, you'd be diluting the SRM back to what you originally expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By having a higher extraction yield, you will suffer a slight loss in alpha acid isomerization (likely not all that noticeable with an 8%+/- efficiency difference).  You'll be under-pitching your yeast if you do not account for the higher OG, so you'll likely suffer the consequences of under-pitching (ester formation, yeast stress, longer lag time, etc).  Those are two of the most common concerns with higher than expected efficiency if it is not diluted back to what you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I frequently account for higher efficiency by adding cold, filtered water at the end of the boil.  This accomplishes two things.  Primarily, it gets my OG back on track, and secondarily, it assists with chilling the wort.  You could of course add the water pre-boil to get it back on track, and not suffer a loss in hop utilization, I just choose not to since I tend to go overboard on the hops anyways when I'm brewing a hop-forward beer.  The consequences of adding water back into an overly efficient wort to get it back on track are minimal, if there are any at all.  The sugars are dissolved in the solution, so as water is added, the sugars will blend with the fresh water all the same.  If you choose not to dilute the wort, just be sure to pitch more yeast, as under-pitching can carry some very noticeable consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T18:51:46.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11907" CreationDate="2014-03-07T19:48:19.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to Brew by John Palmer recommends &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter2-2-3.html&quot;&gt;soaking equipment for 20 minutes&lt;/a&gt;, and says that rinsing isn't absolutely necessary for the recommended concentration.  The concentration he mentions is 1 tablespoon of bleach to 1 gallon of water (4 ml per liter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I avoid bleach.  I'm too worried about it introducing off flavors if it's not completely gone, and would only use it as a last resort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T19:48:19.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12128" CreationDate="2014-03-08T00:19:26.843" Score="2" ViewCount="828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of sizing down my 5 gallon brew day to a 3 gallon, no sparge, BIAB (on the stop-top).  I took an American Wheat recipe for 5 gallons and scaled it by 3/5.  It called for 44% 2-row and 44% wheat malt.  I was calculating for 0.12 gallons/lb of absorption.  With a grain bill of 5.6 lbs, I figured it'd b 0.672 gallons.  However, I measured only about half that was absorbed when I was done.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was just trying to find out if maybe wheat absorbs water differently than malted barley?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3255" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T16:49:53.750" Title="Does malted wheat absorb as much water as malted barley" Tags="|wheat|biab|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11641" CreationDate="2014-03-08T16:14:31.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It won't give your beer any &quot;tequila&quot; character at all. If you add it to the kettle, it will thin the body and add alcohol (assuming you add it to your recipe and don't replace other fermentables with it).  The only way to keep even a little bit of agave character would be to add it to the fermenter after about a week or so of initial fermentation.  even then, there will be little to no flavor from it.  I'm basing that on my own experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T16:14:31.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11853" CreationDate="2014-03-08T17:06:43.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hop teas are a terrible way to get an idea of a hop's flavor.  They are harsh, astringent and vegetal.  The only usefulness I find at all is in comparing one hop to another.  You won't get a true test of the hops, but you can find out how they're different.  The best way to do it is to adjust the water pH to around 5.5, but the tea will still be disgusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T17:06:43.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11916" CreationDate="2014-03-08T22:11:40.387" Score="2" ViewCount="1295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add peanut Butter to my batch How much powdered peanut butter can I add to a 5 gallon batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T17:02:16.360" Title="Addition of powdered peanut butter" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11915" CreationDate="2014-03-09T15:58:28.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a recipe for peanut butter beer in my book.  We recommend 12 oz. of PB2 powder, dissolved in 6 oz. of 150 proof spirits.  Let that sit for a few days, then put it in a keg and rack the beer onto it.  Let it cold crash for a week, then rack the beer off the slurry into a fresh keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2014-03-09T17:02:16.360" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T17:02:16.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11923" CreationDate="2014-03-09T20:20:16.140" Score="1" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I adopted proper aeration and a yeast starter, I decreased my lag time to roughly 12-14 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I bought Ferwraps and have been using them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One night, I got the idea to apply the fermwrap after I put my wort in an ice bath, pitched the yeast, and affixed the airlock, under the impression that there was no need to wait for the wort to warm to room temperature. I went to bed immediately, and 8 hours later the airlock was bubbling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same lag time of 8 hours was noted when I did this again on the second time. I'll be brewing two more batches over the next 3 days and will note it again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T20:43:48.393" Title="Does Warming Up Carboy After Pitching Yeast to Fermentation Temperature Decrease Lag Time?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11920" CreationDate="2014-03-10T03:47:05.773" Score="4" ViewCount="1760" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might be a weird question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have brewed, with a friend, 6 batches of beer so far. An IPA, then a Stout, a Saison, a Doppelbock, an Baltic Porter and finally, the same IPA. All grain, always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of all these, only twice we had that weird white film over the beer in the carboy, in the second fermentation. It comes with a few white bubbles. there are some lines of that white that are traced, a little bit like a spider web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either we got infections in both, or... the dry hopping creates that? Is that possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least I know now that even if it's an infection, I just bottle the beer underneath the pellicle :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Here is the picture&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24210872/20140309_134449.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3895" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T08:25:39.907" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T08:25:39.907" Title="Does Dry Hopping create a white film with bubbles?" Tags="|beer|dry-hop|contamination|carboy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11919" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-10T11:27:59.010" Score="0" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just doing some reading, and it mentioned capping the fermenter to carbonate the beer by trapping the remaining co2. Has anyone given it a go? What were the results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3942" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T17:39:57.507" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T17:39:57.507" Title="Capping fermentor for carbonation" Tags="|fermentation|carbonation|co2|capping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11918" CreationDate="2014-03-10T11:53:41.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping does not on its own create the conditions you describe, which sound very much like a pellicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T11:53:41.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11907" CreationDate="2014-03-10T15:31:31.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to use bleach when i first started and would always rinse. I would soak the bottles for a couple hours thn rinse and let dry on a tree. I never had problems but decided that starsan or iodine no rinse solutions were easier and faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T18:34:53.147" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T18:34:53.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11919" CreationDate="2014-03-10T16:34:50.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass carboys are not rated for pressure, I would definitely not recommend trying it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If fermenting or finishing in a metal vessel (like a corny keg), you can use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/397-build-your-own-spunding-valve-to-carbonate-in-the-keg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spunding valve&lt;/a&gt; to control the amount of pressure in the keg to force carbonation, similar to actively adding CO₂ to the keg to force carbonate after fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a practice born out of the Rhineheitsghebot about not using sugar to carbonate. Modern practices make it easier to carbonate with no ill effect on the beer, as Denny mentions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T16:34:50.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11917" CreationDate="2014-03-10T20:43:48.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, pitching yeast well below its optimum temperature and allowing it to rise will increase the lag time as opposed to pitching it at the optimum temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to avoid is pitching room temperature yeast into cold wort, or vice-versa.  This will shock the yeast and potentially cause issues with fermentation depending on the extent of the temperature difference.  This is why people advocate letting yeast warm up to room temperature and pitching at a very specific temperature.  You may not notice much of an effect if it's a 10°F+/- variance, but anything extreme (e.g. room temperature to 40°F wort) may shock the yeast and endure a stunted fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'd be concerned about having the Fermwrap increase the wort temperature too rapidly.  Have you measured how quickly it would take to go from very cold to optimal temperature?  As a frame of reference, for lagering, it's often advised to slowly lower the temperature down to lagering temperatures (near freezing) at a rate of 1-2° a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T20:43:48.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8048" CreationDate="2014-03-11T14:30:57.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found my plastic keg had a uneven seam in the top where the seal&#xA;shud sit against.I sanded and filed it flat then lubricated the seal with vaseline that solved the problem and tested with soapy water for escapeage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6558" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T14:30:57.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11927" CreationDate="2014-03-11T14:36:21.207" Score="9" ViewCount="13390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are different versions of each, like Light or Dark, I II III. I'd like to have the general differences between the two, mainly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3895" LastEditorUserId="3895" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T14:51:12.613" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T15:29:48.507" Title="What is the difference between Munich and CaraMunich malts?" Tags="|beer|malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11926" CreationDate="2014-03-11T15:49:18.453" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;cara&quot; in CaraMunich indicates that it's a crystal malt.  It's essentially &quot;mashed&quot; in the husk, then kilned to produce sugar and a glassy kernel, like other crystal malts.  Munich malt does not go through that process.  It's a relatively dark kilned malt than can be used as a base malt.  Their flavors and uses are very different. Munich can be combined with other base malts or used as 100% of your grist if you like.  CaraMunich, on the other hand, has a much sweeter flavor and should always be used as a &quot;character&quot; malt in relatively small quantities (generally less that 10%) of your total grist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T15:49:18.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="180" CreationDate="2014-03-11T16:21:01.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The technical definitions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sanitizing agent removes 99.999% of organisms a sterilization process removes 99.99999999% of organisms. Seems like a small difference but I'd rather have that extra 0.00099999% if they are going to perform surgery or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the United States, items labeled as sanitizers are agents that destroy 99.999 percent of bacteria in 30 seconds, items labeled as disinfectants are products that destroy all organisms in 10 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While disinfectants work more slowly, they exceed the 99.999%  definition of sanitizing but do not usually meet the 99.99999999% to call it sterilized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6559" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T16:21:01.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11912" CreationDate="2014-03-11T20:39:59.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about the absorption, per se, however, if I don't use rice hulls along with wheat, my liquid volumes are low and my efficiency drops as much as 5-10%, especially if there is 50% or more wheat in the grain bill. It's kind of like a stuck sparge, but not quite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:39:59.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11908" CreationDate="2014-03-11T20:45:01.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you would do this at recipe time. If you know your brewhouse efficiency, you can alter the grain bill to match your efficiency (by hand or using software). Doing it at brew time is going to have other impacts as Tobias Patton mentions. I have altered mine at brew time, by removing some of the wort and replacing it with water, but it kind of throws everything else off. Having said that, note that most brewers only change their base malts, likely for simplicity, but Jamil's Scottish ales are like that (use the same amount of specialty malts for 60/70/80). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:45:01.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11933" CreationDate="2014-03-12T02:37:24.943" Score="7" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had discussions with other home brewers who claim that a bi-product (which I've admittedly since forgotten what exactly it was) of fermentation conflicts with the hops to cause skunking of beer.  I've always thought that skunking happens immediately after the beer goes into the carboy, but then it occurred to me that so many brewers are doing their hop additions outside on a burner in broad daylight.  Where is the line drawn?  Does ultraviolet rays cause skunking from the minute they're added to the boil kettle?  Does the beer have to ferment (or begin fermenting) in order for the beer to become skunked?  What is the scientific reason behind beer getting skunked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T14:32:14.080" Title="Does skunking only occur after fermentation starts or finishes?" Tags="|skunk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-12T11:08:44.983" Score="4" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was reading about oxygenating wort, and the book was saying that the best amount of oxygen ppm is 10. It did say that over oxygenating was sometimes bad, but didn't state how much it took before it started affecting the beer. Any ideas/experience? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3942" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T17:51:20.367" Title="Over oxygenating" Tags="|yeast|wort|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11931" CreationDate="2014-03-12T14:32:14.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/MBT&quot;&gt;this HomeBrewTalk wiki article on MBT&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.khymos.org/2007/02/16/lightstruck-flavor-in-beer/&quot;&gt;this Khymos article on &quot;lightstruck flavor&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, skunking occurs when isohumulone reacts with riboflavin and ultraviolet light to create MBT.  The HBT wiki article suggests riboflavin is present in wort, but it is also created by yeast; the amounts in wort and beer are unknown to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd guess that fermentation creates more riboflavin, leading to skunking occurring primarily after primary fermentation, but I don't have a source to cite for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T14:32:14.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11936" CreationDate="2014-03-12T16:30:47.490" Score="2" ViewCount="1245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bottled a batch of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/21st-amendment-hell-or-high-watermelon-clone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;watermelon beer&lt;/a&gt; where the gravities going into and out of primary matched the predictions (OG 1.050, FG 1.012).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added watermelon chunks in secondary and when it finished I had a gravity of 1.007.  Can I use this new number to get a new higher ABV (5.6% rather than 5.0%)?  Does this just mean that the water from the fruit diluted the beer that much?  What impact do the sugars from the fruit have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6411" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T18:01:47.780" Title="What can I learn from fruit beer gravity?" Tags="|fruit|specific-gravity|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11934" CreationDate="2014-03-12T18:02:51.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've sussed out the two changes from the addition of the fruit: you'll dilute the original beer, and also change its gravity, which after more fermentation will result in a new FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you'd measure the pre-addition specific gravity, the post-addition SG, and the post-ferment FG.  The difference between the OG and the pre-add SG, plus the difference between the post-add SG and FG would be summed to arrive at your true ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T18:02:51.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11934" CreationDate="2014-03-12T18:13:05.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not really possible to answer this question without knowing how sweet the watermelon was. That is, we need to the watermelon's brix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you added the watermelon, you added some water and some sugar. The sugar will ferment, increasing the alcohol content and the water will dilute, decreasing the alcohol content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://agsyst.wsu.edu/watermelonphotos.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, watermelons average around 10 brix, which corresponds to a specific gravity of 1.040. Given that the sugars in watermelon juice are 100% fermentable, unlike beer wort, which is around 75% fermentable, I would expect the watermelon to contribute roughly the same amount of water and sugar to the beer as the wort. That is, after all is said and done, the beer will have the same alcohol percentage, while the volume will have increased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's a bit surprising that the gravity dropped after the watermelon had fermented. There are two possibilities. 1) the watermelon was sweeter than 10 brix, and the extra alcohol it contributed is lowering the specific gravity, or 2) it was less than 10 bris, and the added water is diluting the beer and lowering the specific gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not much of an answer, I'm sorry to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you can do, if you have access to a refractometer, is estimate the beer's overall starting gravity by plugging the refractometer and hydrometer reading into a calculator like the third one on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/refractometer-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;. You can enter the estimated original gravity and measured final gravity into an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ABV calculator&lt;/a&gt; to get an estimated alcohol percentage for the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-03-12T19:10:29.503" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T19:10:29.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11939" CreationDate="2014-03-12T19:57:13.727" Score="0" ViewCount="1353" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I didn't really plan to make a beer with IBU above 100... I popped the hops into the calculator and it came out about 85. So, after the brewing the beer I was going over the printed out recipe, and found that the hops schedule was not reflecting the reality... I recalculated the IBU according to my steps, and it came out as 120 (that is what happens when you put Magnum and Columbus at 60mins of boil). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I'm not against hops, and I love hoppy IPAs and DIPAs with tons of hops (I'm a hophead and an addict, I know). However, I've read that a human won't be able to taste bitterness of IBU above 100... In other words IBU 100 and IBU 150 would taste the same... Is it the case? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it be bad? Can I neutralize the over-bitterness with any additional ingredients into secondary like oak cubes, maltodextrin, caramel or crystalized honey? Or I just should not worry about it and just enjoy it like an extra bitter IPA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks guys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. I am documenting every single mistake I make, and so far in 7 batches I didn't repeat any of them twice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PPS. It was supposed to be an DIAP/IPA with 7.5 ABV, 80 IBU, and 20 SRM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T20:29:35.673" Title="IBU above 100... how bad is that?" Tags="|hops|ipa|bitterness|bittering|ibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11938" CreationDate="2014-03-12T20:29:35.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's plenty of commercial beers that exceed 100 IBUs, some go to absurd levels.  A lot of my favorite DIPA's have over 100 (Stone's Ruination being the first that comes to mind).  I've had the IBU debate with others who have made the claim of the human threshold on hops.  No one has been able to cite a factual source on whether or not such a theory is at all true past hearsay.  Seriously, someone please correct me if I'm wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to neutralize the bitterness, you have a few options: increase the body (higher FG), dilute your recipe, or probably the simplest method, reduce your hop quantities.  Unfortunately, since you've already brewed it, none of these are viable options.  If you like hops, I doubt 120 IBUs will push you away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my belief that perceived bitterness relies more on the quantity of hops you use, and not their resulting IBU's.  You will taste way more bitterness if you double or triple your hop quantities (towards the end of the boil) to get to an IBU count instead of using one high-alpha hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for future reference, you can save yourself the hassle and use one hop variety instead of two for your bittering charge.  Bittering hops are not intended for flavor, so at 60 minutes, you wouldn't be able to taste much of a difference between two bittering hops like Magnum and Columbus (other hops have different bittering characteristics though, so some level of research when experimenting with bittering hops should be done).  My personal preference for IPAs is to aim for anywhere between 25% - 33% of my total IBU contributions coming from my bittering charge, the remaining 66% - 75% are typically at the 15-minute mark and a 30 minute hop stand.  This results in a very hoppy, bitter, chewy IPA, yet it can be well under 100 IBUs and drink like it's way north of that.  Just some ideas for your next recipe if you haven't experimented with any of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T20:29:35.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11952" CreationDate="2014-03-12T20:59:12.773" Score="8" ViewCount="7431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always added the Irish moss at 15 minuted left in the boil like I was told when I started. But I'm wondering now why 15 mins? what happens if its in for a couple minutes longer or what happens if its in for a whole hour? or on the other side is it effective as a 10 or 5 min addition? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T19:01:58.900" Title="Why does Irish moss go in at 15 minutes?" Tags="|finings|irish-moss|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11940" CreationDate="2014-03-13T03:57:47.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding irish moss too early to the boil will actually cause the coagulated proteins to break apart after binding together, negating the purpose of using irish moss.  Ten minutes would be fine, but any shorter and you risk not giving the irish moss sufficient time to bind the proteins together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, adding irish moss will help with clarity, but quickly chilling the wort will optimize its use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T03:57:47.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11945" CreationDate="2014-03-13T04:06:50.300" Score="2" ViewCount="988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just an extract brewer; I buy everything from NB. The instructions say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Fill primary fermenter with 2 gallons of cold water, then pour in the cooled wort. Leave any thick sludge in the bottom of the kettle.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically follow this instruction, but it seems odd to me. I can see from the colorization that there are traces of hops in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) What is the point of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Should I continue to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T13:09:35.447" Title="After the Ice Bath of the Wort, should I pour the sludge from the kettle into the carboy?" Tags="|wort|extract|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11946" CreationDate="2014-03-13T04:11:54.223" Score="3" ViewCount="3418" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I brewed last night, my yeast starter had been in the refrigerator for 24 hours and it had &quot;a lot&quot; of yeast settled to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am brewing tonight, and my yeast starter has only been in the fridge for 12 hours, and it appears to have roughly half as much yeast as the previous yeast starter settled to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made both starters at the same time from the same DME. The only difference is the yeast and the fact that the yeast starter I'm doing tonight would have been spinning longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read on the internet that 12 hours in the fridge is more than enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fridge is on the lowest temperature setting -- so cold that water would freeze up if I left it in there (but not cold enough to freeze beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T04:37:33.413" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T16:06:44.070" Title="How long to refrigerate yeast starter before pitching into wort?" Tags="|temperature|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11947" CreationDate="2014-03-13T04:35:36.393" Score="5" ViewCount="2344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I extract brew. After I boil the three gallons of water, I take the kettle off the stove and pour the sugars in, and stir under I'm convinced it has all been dissolved. Placing the kettle back on the stove, I wait until it boils again before I pour in the bittering hops. At this point I do stir a lot, perhaps 3-5 minutes, to make sure that no &quot;solid&quot; part of the hops (I get pellets) would get stuck to the bottom of the kettle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not stir at any time from here to the next hop schedule, where I repeat the 3-5 minute stirring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be stirring every N minutes, or does it not matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it matter whether it is extract vs full grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-03-25T04:18:44.607" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T04:18:44.607" Title="Is there a need to stir the kettle at some regular interval while boiling the wort?" Tags="|wort|boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11942" CreationDate="2014-03-13T04:36:36.380" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sludge is mostly coagulated proteins, hop residue. A little bit is actually good for your wort, as it provides nutrients for the yeast. Too much might give the beer some slight off flavours. If you were to let the sludge into the fermenter, it wouldn't be the end of the world, but you'll make better beer if your exclude most of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer your two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The point is to reduce off flavours in the finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Yes, continue to do it but don't be too worried if some of the sludge makes it into the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T04:36:36.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11943" CreationDate="2014-03-13T04:43:00.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you want the liquid portion of the starter to be crystal clear, meaning no yeast is left in suspension. In this scenario, you carefully pour the liquid off the sediment, leaving a enough to swirl around, bringing the sediment up into suspension, and then pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the starter is small (1 or 2 quarts), and the yeast hasn't settled out completely, you can just swirl the whole thing and pitch the entire contents. It will increase your beer's volume slightly, but not enough to notice. If the starter is large (1 or 2 gallons, say), then you're better off waiting until all the yeast has settled out and following the procedure above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're doing the right thing keeping the starter at a very low temperature as the yeast will drop out quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T17:40:28.763" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T17:40:28.763" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11944" CreationDate="2014-03-13T12:59:31.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to stir regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops, pellet or otherwise, do float around pretty freely.  I have never heard of hops sticking to the bottom of the pot, nor has it ever happened to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only stir occasionally to get that hop crud of the sides of the pot above the boil line back into the pot.  And I stir to manage the foam early on in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise your process sounds fine the way it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T12:59:31.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11942" CreationDate="2014-03-13T13:09:35.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general the kettle sludge from an extract batch isn't going to hurt things any.  As long as you perform a strong healthy fermentation the beer will be ready for transfer faster than that sludge will significantly effect the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hop part of sludge may contribute some more hop resin depending on when it was added to the boil originally.  The larger fear being some vegetal character coming from it if the beer is left in primary for to long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the less stuff in your fermentor the less time it will take for your beer to clear downstream of the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So its a balancing act and one that gets debated often.  I don't think there is a real answer here.  Do the best you can, be consistent with your process, experiment batch to batch and figure out what works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T13:09:35.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-13T15:15:25.067" Score="2" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to salvage my one fermenting bottle and wondered if anyone knows how to get the dern top/bail stopper back on the bottle. &#xA;When I went to open my water kefir it shot liquid everywhere and the top blew completely off. the whole mechanism. I've tried to get it back on but no luck.&#xA;is it totalled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T16:32:02.550" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T01:45:25.750" Title="When brewing water Kefir my wire bail stopper blew off" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11932" CreationDate="2014-03-13T17:51:20.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will start by assuming you have an pure O2 tank, regulator, and wand/diffusion stone setup. Because it is impossible for you to over-oxygenate your wort by any method that uses air rather than pure O2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a scientific consensus on how much oxygen is too much, and even measuring oxygen levels is a tricky business. I think there is consensus that 43 ppm of O2 is about the theoretical limit at which you reach maximum 02 saturation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawbacks from over-oxygenating your wort are : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) &lt;em&gt;Yeast Stress:&lt;/em&gt; Yeast will over multiply due to availability of O2, which causes stress in the yeast and can even reduce yoru ABV (because glucose is used in synthesis of cell components rather than metabolized into CO2 and alcohol. It is theorized yeast can also suffer oxidative stress and premature aging because the excess O2 leads to the creation of free radicals that damage cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) &quot;Oxidation of Wort:&quot; All of the oxygen may not be used by the yeast, and the remaining O2 will cause lead to oxidation of your wort. This effect is countered by the fact that O2 will leave solution in the wort and go into the headspace, and if the yeast start producing Co2, it will dilute the amount of O2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, the practical solution is that we know that the ideal O2 level is 9-18 ppm for most worts, and we know that &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2725/how-to-properly-oxygenate-wort&quot;&gt;a flow rate of 1L/min. through a 0.5 micron stone leads to a dissolved O2 level in that range in 60 to 180 seconds&lt;/a&gt;. SO if you control your flow and duration, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T17:51:20.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11934" CreationDate="2014-03-13T18:01:47.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with other commenters that it is not possible to determine the effect of the watermelon on the beer given the current data. You don't know the weight of the watermelon, its water or sugar content, how much of it made it into the beer so it was accessible to yeast (and how much is unfermentables like cellulose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, it is possible that at least some of the change in gravity was due to measurement error, or is within the margin of error for resolution on the refractometer.  (And we are assuming that temperature correction was done).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose in the future, you could take an average sweetness sample of the watermelon (based on appearance or tasting corners of chunks), pulp the sample, and take its Brix. Then you could figure out the weight of the watermelon, and make an assumption about its water weight, thereby estimating the volume and OG of the watermelon addition. Then you could use the parti-gyle method to calculate the combined OGs of the wort plus watermelon, and finally use the FG to get an ABV and apparent attenuation figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T18:01:47.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11940" CreationDate="2014-03-13T19:01:58.900" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is that the active ingredient, carageenan, is said to denature by hydrolization at low pH (especially if combined with high temps) before it has gelled, but it is hard to find citeable sources on the Internet. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrageenan&quot;&gt;Carageenan typically comes from seaweed&lt;/a&gt;, including &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chondrus_crispus&quot;&gt;the commonly-named Irish Moss&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most forms of carageenan are not soluble in water at room temperature, but are soluble at higher tempertures and form a gel at room temperature. Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrageenan#Properties&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chondrus_crispus#Uses&quot;&gt;active ingredient in Irish Moss is carageenan&lt;/a&gt;. The active ingredient in Kerry Bio-Science's Whirlfloc (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ldcarlson.com/MSDS_sheets/6107%20Whirlfloc.pdf&quot;&gt;link to MSDS&lt;/a&gt;) and Five-Star Chemicals' Super Moss (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/wp-content/uploads/SuperMossMSDS1.pdf&quot;&gt;link to MSDS&lt;/a&gt;) is also carageenan. Whirlfloc comes in many formulations (Whirfloc BWS [powder for 40BBL+ applications], Whirlfloc T [tablet form of Whirfloc BWG], and Whirfloc G [granulated form for commercial food uses]) is marketed mainly to commercial users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference from Irish Moss is that Whirlfloc and Super Moss are products in which the carageenan has been refined and concentrated (from other typeseaweed), and then added with binders and aids to dissolve it in liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The carageenan works as a fining agent in a similar way as gelatin (in fact it is a gelatin substitute for vegetarians who cannot eat gelatin) - by attaching to proteins, which in turn have attached to tannins, and yeast. It gelatinizes around 60°C (140°F) (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcpicarrageenan.com/tech.html&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt; - see section titled &quot;Gelation of carrageenan &#xA;&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is said that the carageenan in Irish Moss, Whirfloc, Super Moss, and similar products needs about five minutes at boiling temperatures to dissolve and gelatinize, but are susceptible to hydrolization if kept at low pH, especially in combination with high temperature. Wort has a low pH. But gelled carageenan becomes stable at room temperature, even at low pH. So here is a source discussing carageenen, it hydrolization, and some of its characteristics: (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.agargel.com.br/carrageenan-tec.html&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt; - see items #2 and #4 in particular).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In light of the above info, I am convinced that we should add Irish Moss, Whirfloc, Super Moss, and similar-acting finings at between 10 min. and five min. left in the boil, as per the advice given by several online homebrew shops and in online forums like Homebrew Talk.&lt;/strong&gt;  We want to add with at least 5 minutes to allow gelation, and 10 minutes seems like an outside limit that is cited by many sources as safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T19:01:58.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11977" CreationDate="2014-03-13T21:35:50.797" Score="5" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to locate copies of a &lt;em&gt;complete set&lt;/em&gt; of Scott Bickham's &quot;Focus on Flavors&quot; column in Brewing Techniques, which seems like it was a journal or magazine in the 1990s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is can anyone help me determine the full list of articles in the column, and to locate copies of the articles? Finding them online would be great, but I would be happy to pay for back issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the series included at last the following, and I have linked to the ones I have located:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/brewingtechniques/library/backissues/issue5.6/bickham.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;An Introduction to Sensory Analysis, 12/97&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Four Basic Tastes and Beer Doctoring Trials, 1/98, &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/products/volume-6-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;back issue available here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Staving off Staling, 3/98. &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/products/volume-6-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;back issue available here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/articles/sulfur_compounds_in_beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sulfur Struck - Sources and Impact of Sulfur Compounds in Beer, 5/98&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://api.ning.com/files/yIAsUA%2aNK%2aS2GbcUpcOIyNRyUbZKBC9rnun3HZQzU8JramMMOVOJFIwThbTg8j-jmkCScBwE3r6hTgrzHk5EqF85P7Uj1IZl/FattyFlavorsandDiacetyl.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fatty Flavors and Diacetyl, 7/98&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/articles/malt_flavors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Flavors from Malt, 9/98&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://api.ning.com/files/WPIPonkHYLlTIJIOeASI1iKMRM-5YEJKxHmjX4AaIQEWIYAEUhfIiUCMPkyPibJNHJvW7udms8gBy8ZXlFRaxTkKIWjbZTND/HoppyandMaturationFlavors.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hoppy and Maturation Flavors in a Nutshell, 11/98&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://api.ning.com/files/0WTnUQYNZ4GQ2eXYtCEHPfMSSZB4DaoQ8SbVvVTG6Et%2aHQkem8us6r-izTENYlMDw1ci4yI5nwbsc-XNh1jzIxAXyZSccqYn/FlavorsfromEstersandAlcohols.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Flavors from Esters and Alcohols, 5/99&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully, this is not off-topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-03-14T18:45:19.047" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T01:49:31.590" Title="&quot;Focus on Flavor&quot; Column" Tags="|flavor|off-flavor|taste|judging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11956" CreationDate="2014-03-14T05:55:29.747" Score="3" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bottled &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f65/under-my-kilt-irish-red-314075/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; recipe, last Sunday (2014-03-09). I popped one open today, and it is damn tasty, and even decently carbed after less than a week. However, all the bottles have about a half inch of yeast on the bottom!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My last batch never carbed up enough, so with this one, I made sure to suck up some of the yeast cake (primary fermenter, no secondary). I don't think I sucked up enough yeast to cause this much in nearly 50 bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the yeast continue to multiply while bottled? Is the major yeast in the bottles just a result of what I sucked up into the bottling bucket? I've had previous batches, both with and without secondaries, that carbed up just fine with nearly no settled yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering where did this 'cake' in my bottles come from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;I used 4 oz table sugar in just under a 5 gallon batch at about 72F, if any of that makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T16:08:45.187" Title="Yeast &quot;cake&quot; after bottling" Tags="|yeast|bottle-conditioning|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11954" CreationDate="2014-03-14T11:30:10.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the yeast will continue to thrive and reproduce as long as there is food and the temperature is correct.  What you can do is let them bottle condition for a day or 2, pop the cap on 1 or 2 bottles to test for carbonation, and then put the bottles in the fridge to make the yeast hibernate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6361" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T11:30:10.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11954" CreationDate="2014-03-14T14:08:29.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different yeast strains can look a little different in the bottle as well. One characteristic of yeast is how well it &quot;compacts&quot; at the bottom of the fermentor or bottle. Some strains, like English Ale yeasts, are known for creating a very tight, compacted sediment, whereas others leave the yeast cake much more &quot;fluffy&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, the yeast caked that you sucked up from the carboy is contributing to the size of the cakes in the bottom of the bottles. But hey, that's better than under-carbed bottles, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T14:08:29.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11954" CreationDate="2014-03-14T16:08:45.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess that it's only partially yeast.  The majority of it may be trub that was still in suspension when you bottled.  Bottle conditioning will result in yeast in the bottle, but it's unlikely that 1/2 in. of sediment is all due to yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T16:08:45.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3279" CreationDate="2014-03-15T06:29:58.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recycled beer with wine yeast is doing me just fine, so far. After 4 weeks I decanted 4 litres but replaced the water and added more sugar. Just done the same again and still tastes good with a kick. Any similar experiences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6572" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-03-15T13:27:22.127" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T13:27:22.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-15T12:05:26.263" Score="3" ViewCount="2506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Type S Sankey keg.  How can we open it for cleaning, sanitization, and filling?  In particular, is there a tool we can purchase to make opening and re-closing safe and easy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1770" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T05:53:59.220" Title="How do you open a Type-S (European) Sankey keg?" Tags="|keg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11973" CreationDate="2014-03-15T20:14:56.190" Score="1" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am somewhat interested in obtaining 2 kittens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 1 bedroom apartment already isn't the cleanest. I spray 409 and Windex on all my surfaces before I brew or bottle and call it clean. I'm not going to spend any time picking up cat hair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I greatly prefer homebrewing to animals, should I abandon all hope for a pair of cats? What methods exist to minimize the damage from animals to homebrewing in a one bedroom apartment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I extract brew now but intend on moving to full-grain in the next 3-6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-03-17T21:01:39.103" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T18:08:07.973" Title="Homebrewing and Cats" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11963" CreationDate="2014-03-15T20:57:26.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be wary of using 409 or Windex for brewing purposes; find some proper homebrew-friendly cleaners and sanitizers (oxiclean free and star-san are awesome).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no inherent incompatibility between homebrewing and pets.  You might have to keep curious cats away from some brewing processes/steps, but if you're keeping proper sanitation and your head about you, everything will be fine.  What are you concerned about, in particular?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T20:57:26.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11966" CreationDate="2014-03-15T22:37:12.393" Score="2" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a kit for my second brew. My first was simply a can, some added DME and the yeast that came with the can, and it turned out pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My one complaint was that it wasn't quite hoppy enough, so I would like to try a kit that comes with hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current available equipment is simple. Fermentation bins, demi johns, tubing, airlocks, the simple stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have large kettles, things for cooling, brew pots etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have enough equipment to try a kit that comes with hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T01:05:18.713" Title="Do I need additional equipment for kits with hops?" Tags="|equipment|hops|kits|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11965" CreationDate="2014-03-15T23:08:56.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops do need to be boiled to isomerize the alpha acids, so you at least need enough boil-kettle volume to boil a portion of the extract that contains hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that hop utilization actually goes &lt;em&gt;down&lt;/em&gt; as the gravity goes up, so if you boil – say – half of your batch volume, you'll need more hops to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you don't strictly need to, you will also want to filter those hops from the wort before you transfer into your fermentation vessel.  A simple medium/fine-mesh kitchen strainer will do this just fine for either pellet or whole-leaf hops, and is a wonderful kitchen accessory besides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common early homebrew technique is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;boil 2-3 gallons of water + extract (+ steeped grains) + hops in a stockpot on the kitchen stove.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strain hop matter, combine with 2-3 gallons of cold water (ideally boiled and cooled sanitary water) in the bucket or carboy. (Be aware of thermal shock concerns, here: never add hot liquid to glass.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-03-16T14:38:35.650" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T14:38:35.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11965" CreationDate="2014-03-16T00:28:15.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very simple thing you might try, which doesn't require any further equipment at all, is &quot;dry hopping&quot;.  Depending on what you meant by your first beer not being &quot;hoppy&quot; enough, dry hopping might be the solution.  Dry hopping will not add any bitterness, but it can add a great deal of wonderful hop aroma.  If you currently rack from your primary fermenter to a carboy (demi john?), you would simply add some hops (pellet or whole) to the carboy.  You should do a bit of research, but typically 1 to 2 ounces in 5 gallons would be a good amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you later get more complex with your brewing (and I definitely recommend that you do) you can't go wrong with getting some experience with dry hopping a kit beer now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T00:28:15.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-16T13:09:27.763" Score="2" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've come to beleve that brewing with Rye often leads to undesired sulfur based 'burnt rubber' off-flavours. I'm pretty sure about it but I only have the following indirect evidence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have recently had two Rye IPAs with burnt rubber off-flavour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;found no less than 10 beers using Rye with comments about rubber on beer advocate and ratebeer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;found quite some forum discussions where Rye and rubber are mentioned together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm right I wonder why there isn't any information about this to be found anywhere in the net.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you seen this combination? Do you know why it happens? Does Rye somehow promote sulfur based off-flavours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3029" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T16:07:55.640" Title="Rye and sulfur (burnt rubber / skunk), how to explain the connection?" Tags="|off-flavor|rye|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11963" CreationDate="2014-03-16T15:34:56.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note: Not directly related but worth noting&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;DOGS are generally allergic to hops, gives them sore skin. I don't know if the same is for cats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correction: &lt;br/&gt; hyperthermia (overheating can result in death)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-03-21T18:08:07.973" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T18:08:07.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10949" CreationDate="2014-03-16T15:43:43.243" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look up &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fractional_freezing#Alcoholic_beverages&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fractional freezing&lt;/a&gt;, Brewdog use this technique with &quot;32% Tactical Nuclear Penguin&quot; and &quot; 41% Sink the Bismarck&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-03-17T17:09:07.010" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T17:09:07.010" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11969" CreationDate="2014-03-16T16:07:55.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed dozens and dozens of rye beers...maybe more than  most people, and I have never encountered that.  I'd say that either you're extremely sensitive to something about rye or you're misinterpreting the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T16:07:55.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11963" CreationDate="2014-03-16T16:11:04.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had 5-6 cats and 2 dogs for the entire 16 years I've been homebrewing.  They are no bigger threat to your beer than you yourself are.  Use StarSan in a spray bottle to clean things, not toxic cleaners like 409 and Windex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T16:11:04.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-16T20:24:22.433" Score="0" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy IPA's and I think I've made the best one to my taste so far.  The only thing that concerns me is the amount of grain that I used in this recipe, as it was only 1/2 lb of Belgian Aromatic Malt.  It has 6.6 lbs of light LME, half at the beginning of the boil and then the rest at 30 minutes, no DME and uses Warrior hops for bittering up front during the boil and then Cascade 45 minutes into the boil and then Citra with 5 mintues remaining. The body is just a bit light, would more grain help this a bit? This is so good for an easy recipe, just wondering if tinkering would help? Thanks.  Quentin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T16:31:51.160" Title="Will More grain in a partial mash give more body to my IPA" Tags="|extract-plus-grains|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11974" CreationDate="2014-03-16T20:53:21.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could, but keep in mind that it could also have other effects like reducing fermentability.  But adding 1/2 lb. of C40 or C60 or carapils could help the body.  Yeast choice also has an influence.  Something like WY1450 will leave more mouthfeel in your beer while still giving you good attenuation.  A yeast like US-05 will leave you with a thin body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T20:53:21.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-17T01:45:26.020" Score="7" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;A two part question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How does oil inhibit formation of head in beer? Homebrewers take as gospel that oil-containing ingredients such as nuts will negatively impact head. But I can't find any articles or other materials explaining how and why this is true. I am trying to understand the chemistry of how this works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do citrus oils (from citrus zest or orange peel) inhibit head formation? Randy Mosher says that &lt;a href=&quot;https://allaboutbeer.net/article/is-that-an-orange-in-my-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in his experience citrus oils do not affect head&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2021-10-29T15:16:27.303" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T15:16:27.303" Title="How does oil inhibit head formation? Do citrus oils inhibit head formation?" Tags="|head|head-retention|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11953" CreationDate="2014-03-17T01:49:31.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to answer this question myself, based on additional research. The list of columns in the question is complete. Also, the question has been edited to provide links for a source for each column. I will note that the Focus on Flavor column is often cited as a good study resource for the BJCP exam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T01:49:31.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10592" CreationDate="2014-03-17T19:05:59.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only the recipe designer for Caribou Slobber can tell you what they intended. The IBUs are not listed on NB's website or recipe sheets for extract or all-grain versions. But NB thinly veils (at best) the fact that this is a clone of Big Sky's Moose Drool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Big Sky claims that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/moosedroolbrownale/info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the OG of Moose Drool is 13° Plato&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://bigskybrew.com/beers/moose-drool/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;it has IBUs of 26&lt;/a&gt;. 13° Plato converts to a specific gravity of 1.053, giving Moose Drool a BU/GU of around 0.5. If you believe that a faithful clone is intended then the intended IBU is 26, and the intended OG is around 1.053.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can also tell you I helped a friend brew the extract version (his first brew) about 14 mos. ago following the recipe exactly in terms of boil volume and hop additions, and did a side-by-side with Moose Drool. The HB version was slightly but preceivably maltier than the commercial original (could be the effect of extract, or underattenuation - my friend put beer on his cellar floor, and then had to unstick fermentation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is intended to be a clone. I don't know if the recipe has drifted from being an exact clone to match with hoppier tastes - it was originally designed when brown ales were the craze in the 1990s, and I think I recall it being around back in 1994 when I first started (and quit) HB. The OG of the commercial version and the extract-based clone are substantially the same (1.053 vs. 1.052).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-03-17T19:13:28.743" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T19:13:28.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11949" CreationDate="2014-03-17T19:22:49.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy replacement closures online or at brewstores (&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.defalcowines.com/catalog/product_20216_Swingtop_Replacement_Tops_each_cat_289.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://store.defalcowines.com/catalog/product_20216_Swingtop_Replacement_Tops_each_cat_289.html&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this, you can probably get the wire back in. If you don't want to buy a new one, you may have to bend the old one with pliers to be able to fit (assuming the force of the closure coming off bent the wire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6261" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T19:22:49.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10592" CreationDate="2014-03-17T20:58:47.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They can't accurately give you the IBUs unless every time they make a kit they either change the amount of hops based on alpha acid content or change the IBU estimate based on the alpha acid content. In the end, they will still base this on an &quot;average&quot; setup and efficiency. Typically, a recipe is going to call for 1 oz of this hop and 1 oz of that hop and depending on the hop schedule, the alpha acid in each batch of hops, the freshness of the hop and the specifics of your system, the IBU will vary. Most recipes will give a range to account for the slop. In the end, as other's have mentioned, you'll need to do your own calculations using numbers for your system and technique (or use software that does such) to get an accurate estimate, and even then, it will only be an estimate. You can also make some adjustments for the age of the hops on brewday and how they were stored. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T20:58:47.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11965" CreationDate="2014-03-18T01:05:18.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way of adding bitterness without needing to acquire additional equipment would be to use &lt;strong&gt;2 cans of hopped extract&lt;/strong&gt;, instead of 1 can of hopped extract and some DME.  That way all of your fermentables are bittered.  It might be a bit hard to predict what you'll end up with -- that depends on how much DME you would have added, and how bitter the canned extract is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T01:05:18.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-18T11:10:29.937" Score="3" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;More reading - this time about bottle conditioning. If my yeast attenuation level is say 80%, does that mean there would be enough sugars in the bottle for the yeast to carb the beer? Or would priming sugar still need to be added... Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3942" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T19:04:59.680" Title="Bottle conditioning" Tags="|yeast|bottle-conditioning|conditioning|priming|attenuation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11983" CreationDate="2014-03-18T15:11:31.347" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to add priming sugar if the beer has reached its terminal gravity with the yeast being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example, despite the 80% attenuation the remaining 20% is not usually fermentable sugars.  Its comprised of protein, dextrans and other molecules in solution that are largely ignored by your primary yeast strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, reported attenuation stats for a given strain are not a promise of performance.  Wort composition (influenced by ingredients and mash conditions) will generally dictate the amount of attenuation possible of a given wort.  It is possible to transfer a fermenting beer to the bottling phase prematurely, counting on the remaining fermentation to carbonate the beer.  Generally, this is a difficult thing for most homebrewers to predict accurately enough and get reliable levels of carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T15:11:31.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11976" CreationDate="2014-03-18T18:47:15.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15491178&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a scientific publication&lt;/a&gt; that may interest you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(from the abstract) &lt;em&gt;&quot;Microscopic observations have shown that the fast antifoams rupture the foam films by the so-called &quot;bridging&quot; mechanisms, which involve the formation of oil bridges between the two surfaces of the foam film.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3811" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T18:47:15.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11987" CreationDate="2014-03-18T21:03:15.747" Score="0" ViewCount="1321" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im new to homebrewing (this'll be my 3rd batch ever, but only my second with this kit) using a Mr Beer 2 gallon kit. Im making an American Porter (from extract) and want to impart some coffee flavors into my beer.&#xA;Ive read on here that the best method for adding coffee to beer is to cold brew the coffee, and add it at flameout or into my fermentation tank. Im currently only using a primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the questions/answers Ive seen on here are in regards to 5 gallon batches...&#xA;About how much cold brewed coffee should be added to my primary fermentation?&#xA;Should I add cold brewed coffee, or just put the beans into the tank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6591" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T22:17:59.977" Title="How much coffee (approx) would go into a 2 Gallon brew?" Tags="|recipe|coffee|porter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11986" CreationDate="2014-03-18T22:17:59.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to stress is to start small, and add more as needed until you get that flavor character you're looking for.  Add too much, and you can't undo it.  I've never cold pressed coffee before adding it, so someone else may be able to speak to that.  If you want to go the coffee beans route, give them a coarse grind (they will need to have some sort of grind), and start off at a rate of 0.5 oz (14 grams) of coffee grinds per gallon of beer.  If that is too subtle, bring it up to 0.75 oz (21 grams) per gallon.  Chances are you won't need to go this high unless it's a high gravity beer, but often times people say coffee-forward beers call for around 1 oz (28 grams) of coffee grinds per gallon.  I steep them in a muslin bag in the fermenter for 24-48 hours, your times may vary depending on your desired coffee flavor.  You'll need to draw samples frequently to determine whether or not it's as you like or if you need to wait it out longer or add more coffee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T22:17:59.977" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8161" CreationDate="2014-03-18T22:29:58.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im not sure how much coffee flavor youre going for, but Ive been reading a lot (mostly on stack exchange) about making beer with coffee. You could cold press some coffee and add it at bottling. Another suggestion Ive read which I plan on trying this week is to &quot;dry hop&quot; during primary or secondary fermentation with some coursely ground beans in a muslin bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6591" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T22:29:58.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-18T22:31:49.350" Score="1" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the life of each home-brewer there is a moment when he decides to do something crazy (like gruit). I understand, that chances of me making a drinkable gruit are pretty low... But.. you know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already got a nice selection of dried leafs and flowers that are used in cooking (like making disgusting and not so much teas). And I'm trying to experiment with just boiling it as a tea (just like my grand mother used to do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is...  What should I use instead of bittering  hops? Did anybody actually tried to create an alpha-acid chard for herbs other then hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T02:07:05.840" Title="I am planning to brew a GRUIT" Tags="|alpha-acids|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11963" CreationDate="2014-03-18T22:42:04.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your cats shouldnt be a problem. Just maintain a clean brew-space. My cat was hanging out with me last time I was bottling. She was very curious, but I kept her away from my bucket &amp;amp; bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6591" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T22:42:04.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11918" CreationDate="2014-03-19T01:51:07.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes I think this infection can be cause by hops because I already got the exact  same situation. I boiled the muslin bag, but not the hops (I didn't want to lose flavour). It never happened to me before or after, so I don't think it was a cleaning problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I remember, it was smelling really good, like fresh bread! I tried to remove the white film with a spoon, which didn't work well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to bottle it anyway, and with the smell and taste, you will know really fast if it is good or not. In my case, it was one of my best beer ever! But may be I was just lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2504" LastEditorUserId="2504" LastEditDate="2014-03-25T17:06:45.153" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T17:06:45.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11996" CreationDate="2014-03-19T04:02:21.507" Score="0" ViewCount="2727" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11942/after-the-ice-bath-of-the-wort-should-i-pour-the-sludge-from-the-kettle-into-th&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; I asked if it was bad to pour the sludge from the kettle into the carboy, because the instructions from NB told me not to do it (but didn't explain why). The answers I got were that yes, it was bad as it contributed to off flavors (although it wouldn't be the worst thing in the world).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions from NB also state (immediately after the above instructions) to &quot;add more cold water as needed to bring the volume to 5 gallons&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I brewed a batch, and didn't pour any of the sludge into the carboy. However, I noticed that there was much less volume in the carboy as usual. I added enough water to bring the total to approximately 4.5 gallons, because I was worried about diluting it more than I was supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For extract brewing, should I always bring it to 5 gallons (or w/e the company you use tells you to), regardless of whether or not I poured the sludge in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T15:34:02.707" Title="Extract Brewing - Adding Water to Carboy after Pouring Kettle into Carboy" Tags="|extract|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11993" CreationDate="2014-03-19T04:32:35.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add as much water as you would like.  The only difference is what your Original Gravity (OG) starts fermentation at.  If the recipe calls to top of the fermentor so you hit the 5 gallon mark, then the recipe is going to take that into account with the grain bill.  If you want to make sure you're not diluting your mash, then take specific gravity measurements.  And yes, keep as much of the sludge out of your fermentor as you can, but it's not a complete deal breaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about it too much.  Just have fun, sanitize and enjoy the hobby.  After you get some gallons under your belt, then start taking bits and pieces serious.  Just follow your recipes and enjoy the fruits of your labor!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6590" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T04:32:35.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11998" CreationDate="2014-03-19T07:06:23.067" Score="2" ViewCount="849" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my next brew, I'm brewing this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/recipe/deschutes-chainbreaker-white-ipa-clone/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deschutes Chainbreaker White IPA clone recipe&lt;/a&gt; using LME as described at the bottom of the page. I'm unfamiliar with the use of lactic acid and dextrose in brewing and I'd like to understand what's going on a little more with these new ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 5 gallons (18.93 L)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;5.25 lb (2.38 kg) | pale LME&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2.5 lb (1.13 kg) wheat LME&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;5 ml | lactic acid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;0.75 oz (21 g) | Bravo pellets, 15% a.a. (60 min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;5.0 oz (141 g) | dextrose (30 min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Kettle Finings (30 min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;0.12 oz (3 g) | fresh ground coriander (5 min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;0.34 oz (10 g) | fresh ground bitter orange peel (5 min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1.0 oz (28 g) | Citra pellets (knockout)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1.0 oz (28 g) | Centennial pellets (knockout)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;0.5 oz (14 g) | Cascade pellets (knockout)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yeast nutrient (optional)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wyeast 3787 Trappist High Gravity ale yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the lactic acid an adjustment for the pH of the water of the brewery, or does it affect the beer in another way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why would I want to add extra sugar (dextrose) instead of more malt/extract sugars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(Bonus question) The all grain recipe calls for white unmalted wheat flakes. Would steeping those grains before the boil add anything to the character of the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6592" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T18:07:28.923" Title="A recipe for a White IPA calls for dextrose and lactic acid. What are they used for?" Tags="|ipa|additives|acidity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11993" CreationDate="2014-03-19T09:30:30.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using a Northern Brewer extract kit &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/DeadRingerIPA.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt;, you should get pretty close to the OG if you fill your fermenter to 5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good kit should account for some of the water evaporating away during the boil. It should also assume that some hop residue (trub) will be left behind in the boil kettle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wort that you pour from the kettle into the fermenter should have a higher gravity than the recipe's OG. When you add water to fill it to 5 gallons, you're diluting the wort to be closer to the desired gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are, you'll get pretty close to the recipe's OG if you've done everything right and filled the fermenter to 5 gallons. If you want to be precise, replace this step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;9) Add more cold water as needed to bring the &#xA;  volume to 5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with this one (using your recipe's OG):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;9) Add cold water as needed until the wort reaches the recipe's original gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6592" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T09:30:30.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11995" CreationDate="2014-03-19T13:03:27.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lactic acid would add a bit of a sour taste to the beer without having to use bugs or a sour mash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are using dextrose instead of more malt because they want more abv without adding more malt character.  This not uncommon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The unmalted wheat flakes may give it some character and head retention in the beer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T13:03:27.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11995" CreationDate="2014-03-19T15:32:24.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;5 ml. of lactic acid will be tasteless in your beer.  I don't know why it's there, but you can skip it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;5 oz. of dextrose will not make much difference to the beer and is the normal amount used for bottle priming.  Are you sure it isn't for that?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unmalted wheat flakes have no enzymes and can't be used without mashing with a base malt to convert the starches to sugars.  Unless you do a partial mash, you can't use them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T18:07:28.923" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T18:07:28.923" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11989" CreationDate="2014-03-19T22:30:31.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try juniper berries or possibly spruce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wiki article mentions several herbs that were used in making gruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6591" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T22:30:31.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12003" CreationDate="2014-03-20T04:03:59.710" Score="6" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed some ridiculous beers in the past, my highest original gravity resulting in over a final 18% ABV using WLP099 yeast.  That particular beer turned out well for how inexperienced I was when I decided to go crazy with that, but I wanted to revisit the idea.  My thoughts were to try and brew a crazy, Quadruple IPA (I totally just made that style up, since some commercial breweries have brewed up to whatever they defined as their &quot;Triple IPA&quot;).  In order to get anywhere near the distinguishable hop character, I need to get the final gravity low.  My intent is to have at least a 15% ABV beer, with well over 100 IBUs, and no higher than a 1.016 final gravity.  I'm hopeful that 1.016 is just enough body, that it will assist the hops with masking the alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious concerns that I should be able to deal with are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash tun capacity &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expenses for all the grain and dextrose &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Several aerations throughout primary fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Controlling fermentation temperatures to subdue esters and alcohol burn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am uncertain of is how to ensure I get a clean fermentation out of it.  What I initially had in mind was to start the fermentation with an adequate dosage of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp090-san-diego-super-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs' San Diego Super yeast (WLP090)&lt;/a&gt;, of which I'm a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; fan of for clean ale strains.  I would pitch a sufficient starter to see the entire fermentation through.  According to Mr. Malty, for 6 gallons at 1.130, that's 2 vials at 2.66 liters (using a stir plate).  This would ensure that I have at least enough of WLP090 to pull me through should it need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The catch is, I'd also blend in any equally sized starter of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp099-super-high-gravity-ale-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs' Super High Gravity Ale Yeast (WLP099)&lt;/a&gt; approximately 72-96 hours into the fermentation.  I figure at this high of a gravity, over-pitching is better than under-pitching, and I can make up for the lost IBUs by throwing more hops at it.  I've noticed that the ester profile of WLP099 increases at high gravity, and I want the IPA to be hop forward instead of ester forward.  That's why I'd allow the ester-subdued WLP090 handle the majority of the work, and allow the WLP099 finish up what the WLP090 couldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions regarding this are, when taking this approach, using a 2 vial/2.66L starter of WLP090 at the start, and another equally sized starter of WLP099 at the 72-96 hour mark, will the ester profile remain subdued, will the beer still ferment low given how the WLP099 will likely out-ferment the WLP090, and are there any complications I haven't outlined above that will throw a wrench in the bucket?  Will the lesser alcohol tolerant ale strain cleanly &quot;crap out&quot; when it hits its max or will it throw crazy, unwanted esters?  Would I just be better off using one of the two strains?  Is the attenuation of WLP099 going to be negatively affected by allowing WLP090 to chew on the wort beforehand?  Any advice would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-03-20T15:36:44.637" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T15:36:44.637" Title="Will blending a highly attenuating yeast with a highly alcohol tolerant yeast cleanly lower the final gravity in a very high gravity ale?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11993" CreationDate="2014-03-20T04:07:02.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(1) As far as hops and other sediment (trub) in the kettle, it is fine to pour it all into the fermenter if you want to. Some will say that some of the coagulated protein can provide nutrients for yeast. It will all settle out during fermentation, and there is no evidence that it contributes to off-flavors. That being said, it is hard to allow oneself to do that. I have personally struggled with balancing leaving behind trub and leaving behind too much beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) One technique is to whirlpool your wort during and/or after chilling by stirring vigorously in a circle. Do not splash or aerate the wort while it is over 170°F to avoid oxidation. The whirpool action will cause trub to form a cone in the center, and then you can gently siphon from the kettle to your fermenter from the edge, starting near the surface of the beer and moving the end of the siphon down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) The recipe will account for some loss of wort in the kettle. In my experience with Northern Brewer and Midwest Supplies extract kits, that amount is about one quart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(4) Adding water to the fermenter volume will not &quot;water down&quot; your recipe compared to the recipe's expectation. All of the sugars for the recipe are accounted for in the provided extract, and cannot evaporate in the boil. So your wort is very concentrated. When you top off to 5 gallons, you should hit the original gravity within a few points. So yes, always top off to the recipe's fermenter volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(5) In terms of topping off water, try to use sterile, de-chlorinated tap water, or standard bottled water (but not distilled water or reverse osmosis water). This also applies to all brewing water. Ask your municipality what they use for disinfecting water. If chlorine, you can boil and cool your water to remove chlorine and make mostly sterile. If chloramine, you can add campden tablets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T04:07:02.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11853" CreationDate="2014-03-20T06:42:47.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2013/03/dry-hopped-bud-light.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This blog entry&lt;/a&gt; suggests dry-hopping light beer like Bud Light as an easy way to compare hop flavor profiles. It'd probably taste better than a hop tea, and you can even mix different bottles to see how hops work together!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6592" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T06:42:47.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12000" CreationDate="2014-03-20T14:59:42.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a 14% RIS using a similar technique - I started out with S-04, and then used WLP099 to continue where that couldn't. Since the WLP090 yeast strain has a high alcohol tolerance, you only need the WLP099 if you're talking abv levels above around 13%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your plan sounds about right - although I would use more WLP090 and less WLP099, or you risk ester formation due to a large underpitch at the start. (Say 5l of WLP090 and 1l of WLP099 - halve these volumes if stirred.) Pitch the WLP099 when the gravity puts the beer around 7-8%, since the WLP090 might start to slow as the abv raises above 10%. Oxygenate every at 0, 6, 12, 18h hours after pitching, use 2-3x yeast nutrient per normal batch, and rouse the yeast each day after 4-5 days or when the gravity is below 1.060 to ensure good contact with the wort, that will help you get the lowest attenuation. (And naturally mashing very low is necessary too to ensure you have mainly fermentables in the beer.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider also adding the dextrose after 2-3 to lower the initial gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T14:59:42.343" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-20T16:32:53.183" Score="7" ViewCount="3051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard a lot of mixed stories about people adding additional enzymes (Beano, GasX, etc) to their beers to drop the final gravity down very (sometimes undesirably) low.  I've also hear mixed ideas on when it should be added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per a comment in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/12000/will-blending-a-highly-attenuating-yeast-with-a-highly-alcohol-tolerant-yeast-cl/12003?noredirect=1#comment13930_12003&quot;&gt;a previous question of mine&lt;/a&gt;, there's been experience with adding it at kegging to assist with dropping the FG after the fact in the case of a botched attenuation, with the consequence of having to lengthen the aging to allow the enzyme to convert all the sugars it possibly can.  I've also heard that people may add it during the mash (supposedly common in distillation).  If it were added during the mash, would the enzymes denature in the boil, negating the need to lengthen the aging?  Would it have enough time during a 60/90 minute mash and the lautering to have any significance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other times/methods to adding enzymes or controlling their conversion to assist with dropping the FG in high gravity beers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T17:03:30.287" Title="Safely adding enzymes (e.g. Beano) to lower final gravity" Tags="|fermentation|mash|attenuation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12008" CreationDate="2014-03-21T04:41:23.970" Score="1" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;... I rigged up a raspberry pi and connected it to a thermwrap to regulate temperatures for my wort. All was working swell until I made a slight tweak in the code, and commented out the section that turns the fermwrap off when it gets too warm ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast has a temperature range of 64-72°F. It had been brewing for 8 days when I made the change in the code, and then it jumped to 89°F. I think it was like that for 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just throw this batch down the drain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T15:53:33.867" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T15:53:33.867" Title="Temperature of Wort hit 89°F (32°C) when yeast has maximum temperature of 72°F (22°C)" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12009" CreationDate="2014-03-21T04:44:30.237" Score="1" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is unrelated to the question I just posted &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/12006/temperature-of-wort-hit-89f-when-yeast-has-maximum-temperature-of-72&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. (Yes I'm having a bad day regarding temperatures, both too hot and too cold!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My yeast had a temperature range of 60-72°F (15.5-22°C). It has been brewing for 4 days. When I came home from work today I noted it was at 72°F (22°C), so I put it in an icebath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After an unknown amount of time, its temperature dropped to 50°F(10°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have put a fermwrap on it and it is slowly working its way back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the consequences of this? Unlike my other question, I'm sure I don't have to throw it out, but I'm worried nonetheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T15:42:15.007" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T15:42:15.007" Title="Temperature of wort hit 50°F(10°C) when yeast has a minimum temperature of 60°F(15°C)" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12006" CreationDate="2014-03-21T11:14:05.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe with all homebrewing that there is never a wasted batch, even the worst of the worst is an opportunity to learn something, so don't throw it out yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You were lucky it was so late in the fermentation. The yeast won't die at the high temperature, and at this stage you may find you increased attenuation slightly. If a gravity reading indicates fermentation is done, I would cold crash and taste and decide then if you think it is worth saving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T11:14:05.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12007" CreationDate="2014-03-21T11:17:28.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would take a gravity reading - depending upon what you brewed fermentation may already be over. In which case cold crashing would have been the right thing to do. Or you can raise the temperature of the yeast again and rouse the beer to help get the yeast back into conditioning the beer for another week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With temperature control, I've found that conditioning is rarely required apart from on the lightest of beers, and you can be turning around beers from grain to glass in less than a week (force carbed in a keg.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T11:17:28.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12007" CreationDate="2014-03-21T15:12:50.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may misunderstand what that temp range means.  It's where the yeast company has determined you'll get optimum performance.  Being outside of that range doesn't mean the yeast won't work.  The effects are likely to be minimal to none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T15:12:50.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11918" CreationDate="2014-03-21T16:38:08.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you bottle the beer under the pellicle, make sure you open one every now and then to check for gushers. If you get them, pitch it all--otherwise you may end up with bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, put that in a glass carboy and leave it in a closet for a year or two. Maybe it will turn into a good sour. You can always throw it out later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6598" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T16:38:08.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4215" CreationDate="2014-03-21T16:42:24.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Partly it depends on the yeast. Westmalle (WLP 550, Wy 3787) is notorious for flocculating in the middle of a fermentation if it gets too cold, and thereafter being impossible to rouse. At that point, re-pitching is the only option.  It can also very easily take off and get too hot--I've had 80F+ with it. Water bath is the best bet for that yeast. But it's one of my favorites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6598" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T16:42:24.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12015" CreationDate="2014-03-21T19:04:25.403" Score="5" ViewCount="389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed a lot of &lt;code&gt;Brown Ales&lt;/code&gt;, and one thing I have noticed from batch to batch is fairly swift &lt;code&gt;flavor degradation&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer will taste excellent after two weeks of conditioning.  I'll be able to pick up various malt contributions and fruity hop flavors.  I used flaked corn in my my most recent batch and it really added a complexity and smoothness to the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, it seems, after 3 weeks or so, they all start tasting the same, and all of the subtle flavors I picked up in the first few bottles seems to disappear completely.  For clarification, these are All Grain batches that are conditioned in bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is my taste buds failing me, or if the beer is actually degrading that quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is something you won't typically see happening in a commercial beer, meaning, you can open a beer that's been bottled for months, and it will still taste the same as you'd expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure commercial breweries are using preservatives of some kind, so what if anything might be the culprit in my process and what can I do about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A few ideas are:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possible contamination that doesn't present itself right away&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overly carbonated (though I have been careful about this the last few batches)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under carbonated (maybe I'm picking up residual sweetness)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lighter body beers degrade faster?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exposure to light (I keep these in my closet which is usually dark, however)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Storage temperature (House temp is usually between 60 and 75 degrees)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poorly crafted recipes that don't hold up over time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here are a few of the Recipes in question, for reference.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewgr.com/recipe/679/brown-moose-ale-northern-english-brown-ale-recipe&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brewgr.com/recipe/679/brown-moose-ale-northern-english-brown-ale-recipe&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewgr.com/recipe/1073/brown-bog-ale-american-brown-ale-recipe&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brewgr.com/recipe/1073/brown-bog-ale-american-brown-ale-recipe&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewgr.com/recipe/1419/brown-moose-ale-v2-northern-english-brown-ale-recipe&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brewgr.com/recipe/1419/brown-moose-ale-v2-northern-english-brown-ale-recipe&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewgr.com/recipe/2115/brown-moose-ale-v3-northern-english-brown-ale-recipe&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brewgr.com/recipe/2115/brown-moose-ale-v3-northern-english-brown-ale-recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T22:46:35.747" Title="Maintaining Optimal Flavor in a Brown Ale" Tags="|flavor|process|recipe-formulation|brown-ale|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12013" CreationDate="2014-03-21T20:15:07.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since we can't taste your beer we all just have to guess.  I've never noticed it happening in my beers.  I think there's a good likelihood it's an issue of your perception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2014-03-22T15:45:48.083" LastActivityDate="2014-03-22T15:45:48.083" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12013" CreationDate="2014-03-22T00:48:01.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree it's perception. I have had similar issues with some beers that they are wonderful for a couple of weeks then go downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm focusing on either contamination or oxidation. I find the issue is less apparent if I prime in the keg with sugar. And I have also had it happen with one keg of 2 of a 14% beer - one keg is still pristine while the other has sherry tones. So in that case I think it's oxidation, since the abv pretty much rules out contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for lower strength beers, sometimes the flavor and taste can go from being a multidimensional sip of bliss, to one dimensional &quot;meh&quot;. I think this is due to oxidation, since hop aromas oxidize into less aromatic compounds, hop oils and beta-acids oxidize into more bitter tasting compounds, and generally everything becomes lack-lustre. I have taken steps to improve this, but still find that sometimes a beer simply degrades after a few weeks. I don't think this is my taste perception. And no change in carbonation, since these are kegs that are force carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just tasted side by side a Blonde made 8 weeks ago and a weissen made 12 weeks ago - the weissen is much better, and still has the fresheness that I remember when I brewed it, but the Blonde has picked up some winey characteristics, and is what I would consider sub-par. I'm pretty sure this is oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my advice is to be as sanitary as you can be, and take steps to remove oxygen. It's almost certainly one or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-03-22T00:48:01.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12020" CreationDate="2014-03-22T01:19:36.067" Score="4" ViewCount="1541" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the economics behind home brewing? I mean compared to buying &quot;X&quot; commercial brand beer and setting aside the &quot;hobby&quot; added value that this may have?&#xA;Please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6601" LastActivityDate="2019-04-19T22:29:09.190" Title="Economics behind homebrewing?" Tags="|cost|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2014-03-22T15:48:31.997" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you mean &quot;is it less expensive to brew your own beer&quot;, I'd say not usually, although it will depend to some extent on where you live and the price of beer there.  Sure, you can make very low cost beers that may end up less expensive, but they may not be the beer you want to drink.  There are ways to cut costs by buying ingredients in bulk, or reusing your yeast for several batches.  But in general, you shouldn't think of homebrewing as a way to save money any more than you should think of buying a fishing boat as a way to save money on food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-22T15:48:31.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2014-03-22T16:06:44.737" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Canada, where I live, beer, wine and spirits are heavily taxed. Good craft beer costs between $6 and $9 per liter. My homebrewed beer costs around $1 per liter in ingredients. (I buy malt and hops in bulk, and I reuse yeast across a number of batches.) Suppose I go through 200 liters in a year, that's a savings of at least $1,000. Of course, I've spent some money on equipment, but that cost can be amortized across its useful lifetime, which is many years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-03-22T16:06:44.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7973" CreationDate="2014-03-22T20:55:37.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try increasing your room temp for a about a week and then fridge overnight. If that doesn't help then it's back to the drawing board I'm afraid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6602" LastActivityDate="2014-03-22T20:55:37.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2014-03-22T21:49:54.813" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because I am such a &lt;em&gt;sad&lt;/em&gt; individual I wrote a rather elaborate spreadsheet to document my spendings, because I was bored and I like to tinker. in my defence I use it a bit like a diary.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;I'm not a heavy brewer (yet) and I am relatively new, but here are my figures.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;em&gt;!SAD ACT ALERT!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have brewed a total of 94 liters (25 gallons) of homebrew (inc beers/ciders/wine)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I was to buy that in an approximate commercial product It would have cost me £338 ($558)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The cost in consumables has been £82 ($135)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That is a saving of £255 ($420)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;subtract the equipment cost £247 ($407)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;I have saved £8 ($13)... &lt;br&gt;&#xA;These figures are really tight as it can get (the spread sheet even calculates the cost of yeast per teaspoon and cost of priming sugar  AH ha ha! seriously!)&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;It should be noted that this saving of £8 ($13) signifies that I have just recently crossed over the threshold of where my savings have now matched the start up cost of my equipment.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;So it is just saving from here onwards!!!!&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I fully agree that it is all about the hobby, which also slightly explains, why I made the over top spreadsheet... just coz i can! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;below is overview table from the spreadsheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l97Bu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brews that run at  a lost was coz I had to throw them down the drain and I wouldn't have paid for a commercial version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-03-23T01:12:23.550" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T01:12:23.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1431" CreationDate="2014-03-23T13:37:06.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Re Skunkiness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chill the beer for 48 hours before drinking it if you can, for best taste.  Skunky flavor can be from sun damage (too much exposure to light) but if your situation is one I'm familiar with, then it may simply be that you bought it warm and didn't chill it for very long before consuming it.  I don't know why that should make such a big difference even in the absence of active yeasts, but it seems to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I appreciate the taste of Grolsch quite well (:  I'm glad that I can get nice bottles like that with the added bonus of decent beer already in 'em!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re Sanitizing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bathe 'em in hot water, which can be better in some ways because the heat can permeate into places that no-rinse sanitizer can't reach as easily, such as the area between the inside-diameter of the rubber grommet and the porcelain top/cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't -remove- the gaskets but I -do- kindof &quot;flip&quot; them the other way, basically if you pull the edges of the gasket away from the cap then its cone-shape can invert and expose the reverse side of the disc as well.  After a short time mid-bath I flip them back into the regular position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(One more note about hot-water sterilizing: It's winter here so if I avoid dumping the still-hot water down the drain when I'm done sanitizing stuff, the heat can radiate off into the house and air, thus saving some work that the furnace would otherwise do and becoming effectively free [or &quot;utility-bill-neutral&quot; for lack of a better term.]  Of course if your water can't come out of the tap at 150+ degrees F, it's no safe bet for pasteurization.  Mine easily exceeds 170 since I adjusted the water-heater, it's hot enough for most things!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. I just noticed this question was asked like 4 years ago, when I post this answer, ha&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6603" LastEditorUserId="6603" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T03:16:49.677" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T03:16:49.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2014-03-23T13:51:58.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I live in the US, I'd say a typical home-brewed beer still costs about 60% [in ingredients alone] of what it would cost to just buy the beer.  It can easily cost less than that to brew, but it can easily cost much more than buying beer, as well, if you really want to get crafty or make something good/special.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, you didn't say you were brewing ale or malt liquor specifically, so consider that you can make alcohol-containing beverages with just yeast, water, and sugar.  Those three ingredients can be acquired quite cheaply or even for free sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6603" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T13:51:58.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11016" CreationDate="2014-03-23T16:57:48.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are too optimistic regarding your schedule.  It's unlikely that fermentation will be finished in a week.  Let the cider make the schedule, not the calendar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T16:57:48.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3447" CreationDate="2014-03-23T17:47:32.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought a zero water filter pitcher for about $30 or so.works very well, just takes a long time to fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6605" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T17:47:32.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2014-03-23T20:33:12.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, homebrewing has not been cheap for me. I spent well in excess of $5000 on my brewery and probably the same again in kegs and other equipment. But I have a room where I can brew comfortably, and have the equipment to serve it so it's at it's best. I enjoy for the most part the beer that I make. I still drink bottled beers, and often find I prefer my own brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, homebrewing was never about saving cash, but for being able to brew interesting and enjoyable beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you are just looking to make a drinkable session beer, a batch of beer can be impressively inexpensive and quick turn around when brewing all grain, and much less expensive than brewing with extract. At a guess, I can probably brew 20 liters of beer for less than $20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T20:33:12.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3447" CreationDate="2014-03-24T00:49:50.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have been using the zero water pitcher for 2 years. It came with a 'water quality tester' which tells you the total dissolved solids (inorganic materials and substances..ick) which are commonly found in drinking water. Chlorine would be included, but not specified by itself. My problem is de-chlorinating water for my garden/plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6608" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T00:49:50.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4215" CreationDate="2014-03-24T03:32:53.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the kind of temperature change you're talking about shouldn't bother the yeast much unless it pushes them below or out of the proper range of fermentation temperatures for that specific yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rapid changes can shock or hurt the yeast, for example if you dump a small, warm liquid yeast or yeast starter into a cold wort/must then the yeast will undergo a rather quick change in temperature which could probably ruin them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the weather changing, and your brew being a considerable quantity or volume of liquid which means that its own temperature will change even more slowly than the weather, it could have some effect on them but I don't think it will kill or stop them unless the temperature moves to being outside of the range appropriate for that yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend that you refer to any documentation on the particular strain of yeast in question, if it's available, in order to discover any unknowns about acceptable temperature ranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully the weather is doing you a great favor, ultimately!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6603" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T03:32:53.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2014-03-24T18:20:07.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going to add another Canadian response to complement Tobias'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, even cheap bear is expensive. The lowest legal price beer can be sold for here (Ontario) is $29.35 per 24 standard longneck bottles. That is where the very bottom-of-the-barrel cheap beers site. Think Lucky Lager, Lakeport (Lakewater) etc. This is $1.22 per bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a 'premium' beer like Coors Light, you are looking at ~$1.50. Last time I bought Coors Light (hey - sometimes you need a generic inoffensive beer to bring somewhere), it cost $36 for 24 bottles before tax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decent craft beer runs between $1.75-$3 per bottle. Some are even higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now, I can make a batch of decent extract beer for ~$30-$40, depending on how much I spend on ingredients. This makes ~55 bottles, so anywhere from $0.54-$0.77 / bottle depending on the recipe. And I would rate this in the same ballpark quality-wise as the craft beers available, at least to my tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to summarize, I can make beer that is to me as good as many of the available craft beer for less than half the cost of the cheapest beer available for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that I save $20-$30 per batch I brew, even compared to the cheapest beer I can buy. It doesn't take long to recoup the initial investment in equipment at that rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T18:20:07.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-24T19:06:17.990" Score="-1" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its my first time. I want to make some wine. Please tell me how I increase my wines alcohol percentage around 60%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible, Does anyone know the process? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much yeast, should I use in the grape juice?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have baking yeast and I can’t collect Brewer’s yeast, can I convert baking yeast to brewer’s yeast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I add liquid ginger in grapes juice?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I know if my wine is unfit for drinking?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6610" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-03-25T14:05:47.950" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T03:44:26.143" Title="How do I make grape wine at 60%ABV, that tastes good?" Tags="|wine|ginger|alcohol|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12029" CreationDate="2014-03-24T19:23:43.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, theoretically you can add any kind of yeast to any kind of grape extract and, provided conditions are sanitary, you don't get an infection, and you give it enough time to ferment, you will have a wine of some sort. Unfortunately, it probably won't be very good. In fact, it will probably be horrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make drinkable wine will require proper juice, and the use of proper strains of a wine yeast (usually &lt;em&gt;Saccharomyces cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt;). I would recommend you read the overview and history of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winemaking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Winemaking on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; to get an understanding of the basic process, then ask more specific questions here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, consider visiting your local homebrew supply store and talking with the people there. They will be able to answer any questions you may have, and sell you the equipment you need to successfully make good wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to get an alcohol percentage of 60%... well, it probably wouldn't be considered wine any more. This would either require distillation into a brandy with a still, or perhaps freeze distillation. Please check with your local laws as distillation may not be legal where you live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T19:23:43.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12029" CreationDate="2014-03-24T21:09:58.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy some wine yeast - don't use bread yeast - wine yeast is more alcohol tolerant and will give you the best chance of producing something like wine. But even so, nowhere near 60% - most yeasts stop around 14-18 percent abv. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T21:09:58.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2014-03-24T21:36:01.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far, all I buy are the prepackaged extract kits and I am very happy with them (and so are my lucky friends).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;not including the equipment, the boxed ingredients cost me between $25-$35 depending on the recipe and so far, my favorites are the ones hovering around $25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I net about 2 cases from this. That;s about 6.25 to 8.75 a 12-pack for beer that tastes better to me than comperably beers. In the stores, lower quality beers go for $12-$15 for a 12-pak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastEditorUserId="6263" LastEditDate="2014-03-26T18:42:29.237" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T18:42:29.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12035" CreationDate="2014-03-25T03:34:51.667" Score="6" ViewCount="15902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read tidbits how that after the first 3 days of fermentation, you would ideally raise the temperature of the carboy for the remainder of the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How, exactly, does one do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say the Wyeast I buy states an optimal temperature range of 60-72*F (15.5 to 22.2*C), and I don't know enough about the flavor profile at different temperatures of a yeast, so I arbitrarily decide that the midway point is going to be my target temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first three days I hold the temperature at 66*F (18.9*C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that (I've heard) only 50% of the batch is brewed in the first three days, why would I want to raise at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I want to raise, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Do I raise after 3 days or some other amount? (Rule of thumb here as I'm not going to take gravity readings)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) how much do I raise the temperature by?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) how many hours/days do I take to raise the temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) do I hold it at this temperature for the duration of the brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, I have 8 carboys going but only 4 fermwraps. Four of the carboys are closer to the end of the brew, and four of them are closer to the start. Is it more important for me to raise the temperatures towards the beginning of the batch that to maintain a raised temperature at the end of a batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T13:29:16.753" Title="How to Properly Increase the Temperature of a Batch after Primary Fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12033" CreationDate="2014-03-25T09:41:22.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main point of raising the temp is simple. As the sugars become limiting the yeast begin to enter a dormancy phase.  As yeast slow down the temp of your fermentation begins to lower too.  That lowering temp is also a signal to yeast to go dormant.  This causes a cyclical effect of potential having the yeast drop out sooner than you want and you do not attain the most attenuation as you could have.  By raising the temp a few degrees as fermentation visibly slows, you help keep the activity level up as the most robust portion of your yeast population continues to ferment what little sugars remain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't a rule about how to do it.  A myriad of paths exist to affecting the final outcome of the flavor and yeast performance, albeit subtle changes between paths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't an answer for the right way to do it.  You do it one way and see if it works for you when you taste it.  If not try it another way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't put any #s in this answer because its something that has to be determined on a personal basis.  I know what works for me, but that isn't an absolute.  It depends on ambient temps, OG, beer style, yeast strain, O2 levels... etc.  This, like many things in brewing, requires experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T09:41:22.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12033" CreationDate="2014-03-25T13:29:16.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Do I raise after 3 days or some other amount? (Rule of thumb here as I'm not going to take gravity readings)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you aren't taking gravity readings, therefor you aren't examining the apparent attenuation, your best bet is to wait until after high-krausen.  This really depends on the gravity of the beer, what yeast your using (ale vs. lager, fast fermenting vs. slow, high attenuation vs. low), and what temperature you're fermenting at during high krausen.  If you're fermenting on the cold end of the recommended fermentation temperature it may delay this by a day or two.  Your best bet is to wait three days, check to see if the most vigorous phase of fermentation has concluded, and raise the temperature if necessary, or wait another 12-24 hours before checking again.  I typically wait until the 96 hour mark (post yeast pitching) before checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) how much do I raise the temperature by?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to the high end of the recommended temperature of the yeast, potentially ~2°F over the recommended high.  Ester formation towards the tail end of fermentation will be drastically lower than it is at high-krausen, so it's okay if you overshoot it by a couple of degrees for the sake of finishing out the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) how many hours/days do I take to raise the temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to check the gravity at this point to know for certain, but chances are, you should likely only stay at this temperature for 48-72 hours tops before lowering it back down again.  Once your gravity stabilizes for 48 hours, it's best to assume that fermentation has completed.  If you aren't checking gravity, best to likely assume 48 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4) do I hold it at this temperature for the duration of the brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.  Once fermentation completes and the gravity remains consistent for 48-72 hours, you're good to bring it to room temperature, assuming that isn't &amp;lt; 60°F or &gt; 75°F (for standard Saccharomyces cerevisiae).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a fermentation chamber (e.g. chest freezer) to store the carboys in, you can always tape one or two of your FermWraps to the inside walls of the freezer instead of wrapping them around the carboys.  That would help heat the entire chamber and not individual carboys.  That of course assumes all carboys inside are on the same fermentation schedule, using the same yeast, pitched around the relatively same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T13:29:16.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12029" CreationDate="2014-03-25T14:01:45.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To Exactly answer your questions:&lt;p&gt;&#xA;Is it possible, Does anyone know the process?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yes, you would have to ferment some wine then add a very high ABV% of Alcohol, acquired, paid or distilled by another means.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Example ratio:&#xA;300ml of 10% wine + 700ml of 80% spirit = 59%ABV&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much yeast, should I use in the grape juice?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Go for 1 tsp per gallon(4.5L).&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;can I convert baking yeast to brewer’s yeast?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No they are different strains, but bakers yeast will make alcohol.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;Can I add liquid ginger in grapes juice?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yes, you are drinking it, you add whatever you like.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;How do I know if my wine is unfit for drinking?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Typically is smells bad, tastes bad or has a visible infection growing in it. I believe (please correct me guys) typically there is nothing harmful to humans that can grow in brewed beverages, but will taste terrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;Please look around, including this site grow your knowledge, and feel free to ask more questions. If 60% ABV is your goal, I would direct you to &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.homedistiller.org/Main_Page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HomeDistillers&lt;/a&gt; for achieving this, (please forgive me homeDistillers!)&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;I downvoted your question, because I believe  you are missing some huge fundamentals, require some online reading and I don't believe you question is improving question catalogue. Also this approach will lead to some terrible tasting drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastEditorUserId="6248" LastEditDate="2014-03-25T20:51:09.757" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T20:51:09.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12038" CreationDate="2014-03-25T14:27:57.237" Score="1" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can invert Sucrose sugar (UK table sugar) into Fructose and Glucose, by heating with citric acid, (FYI This is how you make belgian candy sugar guys!).&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;I'm not too hot on my Malt, but there is a cocktail of sugars in there including Maltose after mashing.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;Can this (Malt/Malt Extract/Wort) be inverted? bonus question is there any use for this, how does it relate to beer?&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel this may be a disappointingly quick answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6248" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T15:24:44.870" Title="Can Malt extract or Wort be inverted?" Tags="|extract|malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12037" CreationDate="2014-03-25T15:24:44.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it can be done.  No, there's no point to it.  Some say that invert sugars are easier for the yeast to ferment, but the yeast will invert any sugars in the wort.  Inverting the sugar first really makes no difference to the fermentation.  Depending on how you do the inversion, you may or may not get Maillard reaction products that may affect the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T15:24:44.870" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11237" CreationDate="2014-03-25T20:12:13.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place all of your bottles in the dishwasher for a sanitizer cycle.  Leave the dishwasher closed until bottling time to preserve sanitation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't have a sanitizer cycle, spray the inside of the dishwasher with starsan and drain your bottles from your sanitizing reservoir in the racks of the dishwasher.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the bottling bucket on the counter above the dishwasher.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flip over as many bottles as will fit on the opened-flat door of your dishwasher and fill them all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As each is filled, move the previously filled bottle to the counter place a sanitized cap on it and put an empty in it's place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you can keep an assembly-line rhythm but minimize exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3712" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T20:12:13.270" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-03-25T20:12:13.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12042" CreationDate="2014-03-26T03:18:39.610" Score="5" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been reading a lot about home brewing. I'm planning actually to build an electronic 5 gallon brewery. Could anyone provide a short explanation when (mashing, boiling ?!), why and how much to use of the following salts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Gypsum / Calcium Sulphate (CaS04) &#xA;Calcium Chloride (CaCl2)&#xA;Pure / Unscented Epsom Salt (MgS04)&#xA;Chalk / Calcium Carbonate (CaC03)&#xA;Baking Soda (NaHC03)&#xA;Non-Iodized salt / Pickling salt / Kosher salt (NaCl)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they really necessary? :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6601" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T16:46:50.067" Title="Could someone provide info. about brewing salts?" Tags="|all-grain|water|chemistry|ph|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12040" CreationDate="2014-03-26T03:43:37.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The core question is … Why?  Different ions lead to different perceived properties in the finished beer; for one example: higher concentrations of chloride emphasize malt character, whereas higher concentrations of sulfate emphasize hop character and dryness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When?  Both in the mash and in the sparge water, mostly based on the ratio in volume, with some caveats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much? Impossible to say without knowing both your current and desired water profile. Your current profile might be obtainable from your municipal water district's report, or you can send a sample away for analysis. Your desired profile is going to be based primarily on the style of beer you want. How much of each salt (or acid or other chemical) you need to achieve the ionic profile you desire is really up to your source water and in some cases your grain bill as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both &quot;when?&quot; and &quot;how much?&quot; are answers that involve a lot of computation; spreadsheets (Bru'n Water, EZWater, &amp;amp;c.) or other brewing software are nearly essential to these tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just getting started, don't worry about water chemistry, except to filter it for major contaminants and for chlorine/chloramines; if your water smells and tastes good, then brew with it. Nearly &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; else is more important to making good beer as a beginner, especially fermentation temperature control and yeast health (appropriate pitch rates via starters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T03:43:37.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12040" CreationDate="2014-03-26T16:46:50.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether or not they're really necessary depends on the water you have and the beer you want to brew.  You need to start by getting an analysis of your water.  Some water districts provide all the info you need, but many of them don't.  If not, an excellent resource is wardlab.com.  Get test W-6.  As the what the info means and how you need to adjust your water, see the water knowledge page at &lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge&lt;/a&gt; .  There is also a free spreadsheet there that you can plug your water report into and figure out if and how to adjust your water.  Use the color/flavor profiles, not the city profiles.  Many breweries filter or otherwise change their water, so the city water profile does yo no good.  In addition, you have no idea of the accuracy of the city profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T16:46:50.067" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12135" CreationDate="2014-03-26T19:38:15.230" Score="3" ViewCount="1854" Body="&lt;p&gt;This technique &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5arq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5arq.jpg&lt;/a&gt;, shows how is easy to do permanent markings in stainless steel pot. But what about aluminium ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if it is possible (and safe) to use it in aluminium pots ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BmuF9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T16:14:38.320" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T16:14:38.320" Title="Permanent marking of volume in aluminium pot" Tags="|boil-kettle|brewpot|mash-volume|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11237" CreationDate="2014-03-26T21:06:35.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use my dishwasher as the filling area.  With my bottling bucket on the counter above it.  That way when I spill it'll drain into the dishwasher.  It means less cleanup and less sticky floors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I sanitize my bottles, I fill up my bottling bucket with star-san and use the spout to fill bottles with the star san, swirl it around, pour it back into the bottling bucket, and hang it to dry on my bottle tree.  This way I can be pouring the star san back out while filling another bottle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I would not rely on the dishwasher's sanitize cycle alone, i don't think it does a very good job of spraying water into each of the bottles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually fill batches of bottle on the dishwasher door (laid down flat) and once i've done 20 or so will move them to the counter for capping.  If my wife is home I'll enlist her to do the capping while I fill the next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3255" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T21:06:35.310" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-03-26T21:06:35.310" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2014-03-26T23:49:56.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me, I usually disregard economics when I am homebrewing. How come?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, most of the homebrew beers I make are clones of styles that I cannot get in Oregon. For example, New Glarus Spotted Cow. Since I cannot get these brews where I live, the cost of making them is nil (or even more expensive since I would have to drive to the location to pick up the beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wanted to throw that thought into the mix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6622" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T23:49:56.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11993" CreationDate="2014-03-27T15:34:02.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other answers mention that this is all about your target original gravity (OG), but they don't mention that it's very simple to figure out what will happen if you dilute your wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding water is largely about changing gravity. If you had too much boil-off your gravity is probably too high, so you want to dilute. If you add too much water you'll end up with lighter, waterier beer than was intended by the recipe. Good recipes should have a target OG and FG (final gravity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is to use a &lt;strong&gt;dilution calculator&lt;/strong&gt;. There's a good one included in most brewing software (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerSmith&lt;/a&gt;) and there are some online, like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/dilution-and-boiloff-gravity-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend Dilution and Boil Off Gravity Calculator&lt;/a&gt; (use #2 on the page for what you're talking about). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T15:34:02.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-27T18:30:58.880" Score="0" ViewCount="1952" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atgstores.com/wine-racks/nexxt-design-fn01459-8-ellington-wine-rack_g1354109.html?rmk=1833&amp;amp;af=2264&amp;amp;linkloc=reCanonical&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.atgstores.com/wine-racks/nexxt-design-fn01459-8-ellington-wine-rack_g1354109.html?rmk=1833&amp;amp;af=2264&amp;amp;linkloc=reCanonical&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can put that in a spot with no sunlight. Will my wine degrade (aside from the degradation that occurs from the temperature/humidity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it matter which wine bottles I chose to bottle my wine with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T20:29:45.883" Title="Does artificial light degrade wine?" Tags="|wine|light|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5906" CreationDate="2014-03-27T20:01:51.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I brew with an extract I boil 4 cups of water, then take it off of the heat, and add my Hopped Malt Extract to the hot water and stir. Once the extract has dissolved into the hot water it gets added to a gallon of chilled water in my fermentor, and then another 4 cups are added to that. Basically, the instructions for my Mr Beer 2 gallon brewing kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6591" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T20:01:51.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-27T23:47:49.263" Score="1" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read various things about saving yeast when racking, which is what I intend to do soon with one small batch of cider.  I see some people just &quot;take the cake&quot; and I've read about a process involving the adding of room-temperature water to the remaining lees after racking, then waiting 20 minutes for the yeast to separate itself from the trub or lees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've been doing so far is just putting everything into a bottle that was left over after I racked the bulk of the must out of the container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the cake or lees on the bottom of the primary fermenter is very small, but what remains of the krausen is quite a bit larger and looks a lot like flocculated yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've shared a photo in the post, here.  Probably what's on top is just the remains of the pulp, but I am not so certain there isn't a lot of yeast there.  What I'm trying to find out ultimately with this question is:  If my goal is to recover and save the liquid yeast when I rack it, should I save what's near the top, what's on the bottom, or both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IO3GC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Large Krausen but Small Yeast Cake&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6603" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T18:46:12.667" Title="When saving or recovering yeast is it always found in the cake or trub or lees, or is it sometimes found in the krausen?" Tags="|yeast|krausen|trub|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12054" CreationDate="2014-03-28T03:11:35.543" Score="1" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;guys, I'm planning to brew a sweet mead this weekend with 15-18 lbs of honey for a 5 gallon batch... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my goal... I want it to be strong (15% or so) and sweet. I'm pretty much prepared, but still deciding on yeast. So far, I have a choice between WLP099, which is a Super High Gravity yeasts  and WLP720, which is a Sweet Mead Yeast... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: if I go with WLP099, it should bring the FG to 1.023... Would it be still sweet, semi-sweet or dry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T13:29:41.087" Title="Making Sweet Mead this weekend" Tags="|mead|final-gravity|sweetness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-28T05:21:13.413" Score="1" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;We made the beer, it fermented fine, then waited to bottle (maybe too long afterwards) added sugar and bottled.    After waiting for the required time opened a bottle only to find it flat. Can we add more yeast and still save this batch of beer or do we need to start over...? Can the original brew be salvaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6625" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-03-28T10:50:07.863" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T17:01:11.763" Title="I added sugar and bottled the beer...aged and no carbonation" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-04-30T03:59:53.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5969" CreationDate="2014-03-28T08:44:44.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't see anything wrong with a brew bucket myself. They come with airtight lids and airlocks these days. and some have a tap at the bottom. Ideal for beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6626" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-03-28T12:35:30.587" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T12:35:30.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12051" CreationDate="2014-03-28T13:29:41.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's roughly 1 pound of honey to 1% abv in 5 gallons, 15lb will get you around 14% and 18lb about 17%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If looked after, WLP099 will consume all the sugars you have available at leave you with a very dry mead. 15% is no problem for that strain, and 18% is achievable with care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sweet mead yeast WLP720 will stop around 14-15%, although actual performance depends upon how much you baby sit it. So it could ferment out completely or leave your honey slightly sweet, although I doubt it would be anywhere near 1.023 unless you add the extra 3 lbs to take it up to 18lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good thing is that the WLP720 is self limiting. So in the event it does ferment out all your honey, you can keep adding more honey until the abv prevents the yeast fermenting it, so then the honey is then going to backsweeten the mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your shoes, I'd start with 15-16lbs of honey, ferment with WLP720 and then after fermentation is complete, decide if I need to add more honey. Note that adding more honey may restart fermentation so be sure to leave for several weeks before bottling. (This is usually not an issue with meads, with tend to sit for months.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T13:29:41.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-29T08:10:40.730" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theguardian.com/science/2014/mar/27/designer-chromosome-brewers-yeast-eukaryotic-saccharomyces-cerevisiae&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.theguardian.com/science/2014/mar/27/designer-chromosome-brewers-yeast-eukaryotic-saccharomyces-cerevisiae&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't heard of this story you have GOT to read it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Scientists streamlined organism's DNA and added sequences in first ever creation of an artificial 'eukaryotic' chromosome&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They took brewers' yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) and introduced artificial chromosomes into it. Awesome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a layman, this sounds to me like it could hold the potential for revolutionizing our hobby. Why genetically engineer brewers' yeast through &quot;selective breeding&quot; when you can inject chromosomes into live yeast and have them reproduce your desired characteristics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question boils down to one thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does current science have any idea of what components of the biology of yeast make which desired characteristics of beer?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, are we completely unaware of why one strain of yeast imparts some characteristics under certain temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T17:01:08.450" Title="Does current science have any idea of what components of the biology of yeast make which desired characteristics of beer" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-29T08:16:52.587" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just learned recently via this forum that temperature is most important during primary fermentation, which completes in (roughly) 7 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have fermwraps on my carboys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would happen if I set the temperature at above the &quot;manufacturer's recommended optimal temperature range&quot; for three weeks after primary fermentation is complete (meaning, 100% of the wort has been fermented into beer)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T13:47:01.590" Title="What consequences arise from holding wort at a high temperaure after fermenation is 100% complete?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-29T08:40:08.267" Score="4" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Raspberry Pi in combination with a temperature probe to measure the temperature of my wort. It would be nice if I had another probe that could measure the current gravity of my beer, so that my RPi could instruct my fermwraps to heat up once primary fermentation is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T14:01:42.167" Title="Does any &quot;probe&quot; exist which can detect the gravity of wort?" Tags="|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12064" CreationDate="2014-03-29T11:52:22.460" Score="1" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm ferementing a saison with Wyeast 3724, and after the initial ferment, it died down, I then bought it into a warmer room and chucked some blankets over it (I'm also using an aquarium heater, but that alone wasn't working). I checked on it last night, and it seems to have fleks of white on top, as well as a thin film. The smell is also rather funky (I guess this is usual for a Saison). Here's what it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMiHb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Saison film&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this usual for a saison, or have I got an infection on my hands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3864" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T17:34:13.680" Title="Saison fermentation. White residue and thin film. Infected?" Tags="|fermentation|saison|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12057" CreationDate="2014-03-29T13:47:01.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Premature staling?  Ideally, once fermentation is finished, after bright storage, filtering, priming, packaging, &amp;amp;c., beer would stay in a cool, dark location until consumed, with no temperature changes or shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do you want to raise the temperature, and to what value? And why 3 weeks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T13:47:01.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11029" CreationDate="2014-03-29T15:59:43.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both Denny Conn and mdma were correct to some extent.  I am not able to pick who answered the question fully at this go of it.  So I’ll answer with my own results and hope others experiment further to dial in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I planned on splitting a 5 gallon batch all along for comparison so I wouldn't feel it wasn't wasted if it didn't turn out.  The design was a wit beer with orange peel and clove added at flameout to emulate a holiday pomander aroma.  This is a highly aromatic beer which is why I felt the hop tea would work well.  The original was a huge success.  Minor tweaking from here on out would produce a showcase beer in my opinion.  As for the NA; the hop tea was successful although incomplete as a solution to the problem.  I did manage to match the bitterness and got the aroma back into the beer, though the aroma was not as pronounced.  On this it is successful.  As Denny Conn pointed out in his experimentation, “weird caramelized maltiness&quot; persisted and I found the same.  I did not adjust the pH at all which may, in future attempts, help but may also do nothing at all.  My feeling is that the tea is added as such a small volume that the adjustment may not contribute as much as I would hope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was it drinkable?  Sure.  Not as fun being NA and, having the original to compare to, not of the same motif any longer due to the affect on grain.  Would I do it again?  Maybe.  If I could find a way to counter the effect on the non-fermentables I’ll give it another shot.  The wife is all healed now so no need to play with this experiment for the time being.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method requires a lot more work and time involved, not to mention the additional ingredients for the tea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My method was this:  Prior, I took a test tube of the beer from the carboy and stored it for later addition to the NA.  I racked roughly 2.5 gallons onto a primer, stirred and bottled.  That was my control.  The remaining 2.5 gallons I racked to the kettle and heated to 170 degrees.  The beer showed large bubbling which I assumed was the alcohol evaporating off.  The kitchen was completely filled with all the aromatics I had in the beer which was deeply saddening to me.  Once the bubbling stopped, I cooled and racked onto another priming solution.  Meanwhile, I boiled a downsized hop tea I crafted through beersmith to match the IBU of the main batch while only using water.  I followed the addition schedule including the aromatics at the end.  In this case, orange peel and clove.  Cooled the tea and topped up the now NA beer to 2.5 gallons.  I added the beer from the test tube to reintroduce live yeast back into the volume.  Stirred well and bottled the NA.  The NA took significantly longer to condition being as only a small amount of yeast was reintroduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6074" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T15:59:43.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12063" CreationDate="2014-03-29T16:49:47.663" Score="1" ViewCount="941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm homebrewing using a Northern Brewer starter kit, but I seem to be losing quite a lot of beer. I'm starting with 5 gallons in my primary fermeter, but by the time I bottle I end up with roughly 3.9 gallons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I'm losing some liquid when racking to a secondary fermenter and when bottling to avoid sediment, but losing more than a gallon seems excessive. Should I be using some filter to get the last bit of liquid out of the sediment, or maybe adding extra water when pitching to make up for this loss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6521" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-03-30T00:15:39.480" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T22:15:12.353" Title="Losing liquid during brewing" Tags="|beer|fermentation|sediment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12062" CreationDate="2014-03-29T17:32:40.847" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, there is almost never a need to use a secondary fermenter unless you add something to the beer that produces a true secondary fermentation.  The idea of using a secondary on a regular basis comes from the commercial brewing industry.  The fermenters homebrewers use are far smaller and the risk of autolysis is virtually nonexistent, unlike commercial breweries.  Most homebrewers no longer use secondary and homebrew &quot;experts&quot; no longer recommend them.  That will cut part of your loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you add extra water to make up the loss with out adding extra fermentables, your beer will be watered down.  When I formulate a recipe, I make it for 5.5 gal. to account for the loss, but if you buy kits you can't do that.  You'll just have to try to xfer all you can and accept what's lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T17:32:40.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12059" CreationDate="2014-03-29T17:34:13.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry to say that looks like the beginning of a pellicle, meaning your beer is infected.  But if you drink it quickly, you may avoid the worst of it.  Best case, it might even taste good!  And NEVER put that heater in your beer!  Put the beer in a tub of water and put the heater in the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T17:34:13.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12062" CreationDate="2014-03-30T00:14:34.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that if you don't cold crash your beer before siphoning it off, you'll want to let it sit for a day or two before siphoning it to ensure that all the trub at the bottom of the carboy/bucket has settled out.  This means that if you didn't refrigerate your beer before siphoning to secondary or your bottling bucket, you'll want to move it to where you will siphon, and let it sit for a day or two.  If you do cold crash your beer, an hour should be adequate since it seems to stick to the bottom a bit better at lower temperatures.  This should give adequate time for all the trub to settle back down at the bottom, and reduce waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure if it's a glass carboy, or clear plastic that it's concealed from any light while it's sitting in its siphoning location as to not skunk the beer.  Finally, when you go to siphon, prop the back of the carboy/bucket up with a book or something to get the bucket to sit on an angle, so that you can maximize your return on beer without having to jam your siphon into the trub at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T00:14:34.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-30T00:36:34.597" Score="1" ViewCount="730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a summit 570 kegerator which does not get cold enough. I bought the Johnson A419 - saw reviews everyone swears by it. I hooked it up, set at 32&amp;deg;F, the display reads 43&amp;deg;F and does not come on. I do not think it is bypassing the factory thermostat in the fridge - do I need to bypass it, and if so, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6632" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-03-30T19:05:37.210" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T19:20:13.987" Title="Johnson A419 controls" Tags="|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12056" CreationDate="2014-03-30T03:23:23.987" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;George Fix wrote the book on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6634" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T03:23:23.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12048" CreationDate="2014-03-30T04:45:37.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that the short answer is yes, artificial light can cause sun damage too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultra-violet light is cited as the primary spectrum/wavelength/frequency that has the biggest impact, and while direct sunlight is going to have much more of it and therefore be more detrimental over time, light bulbs generally emit a certain amount of UV too.  From what I've read, fluorescent lights or CFL's produce more UV than other types of bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much of any type of light or heat can potentially have unwanted effects, however, particularly if there are living yeasts in the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: if the drinks were being stored in clear glass, in a warehouse with a lot of fluorescent lights to which the bottles were being exposed directly, I would fully expect the taste to be noticeably different within an amount of time that's not too extremely long to matter in practical contexts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely: if the drinks were being stored in very dark brown glass bottles in a room with recessed can-fixture lighting that was using incandescent bulbs (perhaps spotlights as opposed to floodlights) so that the bottles weren't directly exposed to the source, and if the walls and floors were darkly colored and also didn't reflect a lot of UV light, well...   You can see how the exposure to light and heat from a room's lighting can conceivably be minimized to the point that they won't be hurting the wine, or &quot;not in our lifetime&quot; as they say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UV light reflects or bounces off surfaces and things more than visible or infra-red waves do, and although darker colors are a safer bet for absorbing more of it than lighter colors, it's not always easy to judge that just by how it looks in the normal visible spectrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to use bottles that were completely opaque, or if you wrapped your bottles in something that's completely opaque and impermeable to usual amplitudes of light etc., well then maybe you wouldn't have to worry about that very much at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6603" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T04:45:37.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-30T09:31:53.507" Score="2" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been given one of those beer kits, namely &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wilko.com/cider+beer-brewing/coopers-international-series-beer-kit-english-bitter-17kg/invt/0318915&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Coopers International Series Beer Kit English Bitter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used these kits before and I've also made my own beer without the use of such kits. What I'd like to know is can I add things to these kits to make them more my own? I've been reading about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/subbing-dandelions-bittering-hops-403202/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;subbing dandelions for bittering hops&lt;/a&gt; and wondered if it were possible to do this with my kit - seeing as dandelions are so abundant right now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2257" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T15:31:04.547" Title="Can I add adjuncts to beer kits?" Tags="|hops|adjuncts|kits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1431" CreationDate="2014-03-30T13:51:06.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible also to buy brown glass swingtops. They're quite expensive compared to recycling bottles from commercial beer or buying regular bottles and capping them yourself. Possible advantages is that they hold 450 mL, they're very sturdy and so can handle high volumes of CO2, and they're just as easy to sterilize for bottling as other bottles. I find them useful for bottling smaller portions of wine or strong beer, making a good serving for a couple of guests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2264" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T13:51:06.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1431" CreationDate="2014-03-30T15:43:07.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised no one mentioned Fischer beer bottles. Brown, better shoulders to decant from...and better beer :).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=fischer+beer&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=Uzs4U5i4CMqFyQHC7IGQCA&amp;amp;ved=0CCgQsAQ&amp;amp;biw=1387&amp;amp;bih=892&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=fischer+beer&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=Uzs4U5i4CMqFyQHC7IGQCA&amp;amp;ved=0CCgQsAQ&amp;amp;biw=1387&amp;amp;bih=892&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6636" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T15:43:07.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12069" CreationDate="2014-03-30T19:39:14.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first got into homebrewing, I started out adding my own twist to kits, I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEf-GvNPYwU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; really helpful when adding my own hop tea to bump up the hoppiness. You could also do a similar thing with speciality grains (such as crystal or amber malt). This will also help detract from the 'tang' you often get with kits and extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3864" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T19:39:14.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12066" CreationDate="2014-03-31T12:32:02.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you could be right - if the existing fridge doesn't get cold enough, then the thermostat is opening (disconnecting the circuit) above your target temperature, so the unit doesn't get cold enough. I'm assuming you've looked for some adjustment on the thermostat - most fridges have these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you have connected the A419 to the mains socket of the freezer, then the built-in thermostat still still be in play and will shut off the fridge too soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This thread &lt;a href=&quot;http://discussions.realbeer.com/showthread.php?12159-Final-Kegerator-temperature-question-%28not-about-foaming%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; talks about the temp sensor being covered in ice prematurely, which is the reason they don't get cold enough. The fix was to improve the door seal, since that was letting in moisture causing ice buildup on the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache%3aKgiVayXQnaUJ%3awww.micromatic.com/forum/us-en/kegerators-kegerator-kits-home/6510-tell-me-how-bypass-my-summit-thermostat.html%20&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;hl=no&amp;amp;ct=clnk&amp;amp;gl=no&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This thread&lt;/a&gt; gives instructions on how to bypass the thermostat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I bypass the Summit thermostat? There are two wires that enter&#xA;  into the fridge compartment and clip onto the thermostat. I am&#xA;  assuming one is 115 volt and the other tells the compressor what to&#xA;  do. If I splice these two wires together, will the compressor run&#xA;  continually? I can then let my Johnson Control thermostat control the&#xA;  system and hopefully get my pours down into the proper temps in the&#xA;  30's. Right now I am pouring at 45 degrees, not acceptable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the reply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You are correct that connecting the 2 wires of the thermostat results&#xA;  in it running non-stop. I don't think it's 110 volts at the thermostat&#xA;  more liKely it's a relay switch at much lower voltage but when they&#xA;  are connected the switch is in the on position. Your temp. controller&#xA;  will then be needed to take over the control of the compressor. If&#xA;  your unit is healthy it should be able to get below 29 F. the temp&#xA;  beer freezes at so be careful setting the temp on your controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T12:32:02.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12058" CreationDate="2014-03-31T14:01:42.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. There is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebeerbug.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beerbug&lt;/a&gt;, a wifi/bluetooth SG sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T14:01:42.167" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12069" CreationDate="2014-03-31T15:31:04.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly use adjuncts with extract kits. Definitely keep in mind that your extract is already hopped, but you could add more hoppiness, or use dandelions if you wish. The key is finding the right time to introduce your adjuncts. I'm currently fermenting an American Porter. I added a few hop pellets when I mixed the extract with water that had been brought to a boil and removed from heat. I'll also steep a few more hop pellets along with some cracked coffee beans for 48 hours before I bottle my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6591" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T15:31:04.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12056" CreationDate="2014-03-31T17:01:08.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably if there are people and companies who have this information in a well defined way, I'd expect them to consider it a &quot;trade secret&quot; before I expected them to publish it to the public domain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this may be a touch opinionated or editorial, but I wonder how much &quot;better&quot; a brewer's yeast could be made to be, considering that they've been bred for at least hundreds or thousands of years already.  In the last century, or maybe the last couple centuries, scientists have had things like microscopes and chemical analysis/synthesis to help them.  It's possible that injecting genes and chromosomes would be a rather moot point in the context of home-brewing, since so many strains of yeast have already been engineered for so many different characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the consideration that the final products' characteristics and traits depend on many more factors than just the inherent traits of the yeasts, like which food or fuel they eat, how much of which nutrients are available to them, other agents/compounds/chemicals present that wouldn't be considered food or nutrition, temperature averages and changes and the speed of those changes, physical shock and motion, light and other radiation, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list goes on, and the plethora of factors provide an effectively limitless variety of possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer of &quot;probably but it's not likely available to us&quot; may not be what you were looking for, you'll have to pardon me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We -do- live in a very Sci-Fi age in which a large magnitude of information is available to us all, but it's also an information age in which keeping secrets can be pretty important and/or profitable.  Considering that, it's possible that things we can already buy like &quot;Turbo Yeast&quot; have had genes injected into their DNA, for all I know.  Gene guns have been around for a while, and they've even been obsolete for a time too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I like it when the yeast I buy says &quot;Non-GMO&quot; right on the package, explicitly stating that there has been no direct injection of genes etc., and almost implying that it is screened against contamination by man-made genetic viruses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6603" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T17:01:08.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2014-03-31T17:10:57.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Avery mailing labels.  I have a background in graphic design so I like to make a professional looking label.  I do the design in photoshop and print them out 10 to a sheet. They come off easy after soaking in warm soapy water for 30 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know lots of people use masking tape and such.  To me nothing says &quot;drink at your own risk&quot; like a masking tape label.  Much rather a new drinker goes into my beer with a good feeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6637" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T17:10:57.517" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-03-31T17:10:57.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-31T18:02:05.160" Score="3" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;People are probably wondering why exactly I am looking to make a light, flavourless BMC-style beer. I personally enjoy better beers - my winters are full of stouts, porters, brown ales, great IPAs etc. However, there are times where a BMC-style light lager just hits the spot, such as when I am working outside in the heat during the summer. Also, most of my family, friends and wife equate these style beers with the term 'beer', and just straight up prefer them, so I'd like to have something comparable on hand for hospitality purposes as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to brew up a big batch of something that approximates the BMC-style beers in a reasonable fashion. Can anyone recommend a decent extract ale recipe that comes close to what you would expect from a BMC beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T11:45:44.917" Title="What's a good extract ale recipe that approximates the big-brewery/BMC-style beers?" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12081" CreationDate="2014-03-31T18:20:23.833" Score="0" ViewCount="1265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed a little build up of &lt;em&gt;gunk&lt;/em&gt; (for lack of a better term) in the curve of my racking cane. I can use a cleaning brush to get most of the cane but I don't have anything on hand to get into the curve of the cane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's a good brush/tool for cleaning the inside of a racking cane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1006" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T18:47:58.380" Title="Cleaning Inside of Racking Cane" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12079" CreationDate="2014-03-31T18:21:53.140" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried using a percarbonate-based cleaner first? Usually an Oxyclean or PBW solution will break up the gunk in my tubing with a few hours of soaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T18:21:53.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12079" CreationDate="2014-03-31T18:47:58.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do a pretty good job with soap and a high-pressure water, as long as you rinse it right away. As I mentioned in a comment on @BrianV's answer, Percarbonate dissolves best when the water is 140°F or higher, but the plastic they use in a lot of racking canes (esp. the auto-siphon) will begin to get cracks in it very quickly if you clean it with hot water. If you use hot water, you will go through a lot of plastic racking canes, because once they get cracks they can harbor bacteria. A wallpaper tray can be helpful if soaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to use cool to lukewarm water when cleaning my autosiphon. Using a high-pressure water stream helps. Two easy ways to do this are with a 'jet' bottle washer faucet attachment or a 'sweeper' garden hose attachment. The Jet on the sink may be tough, for practical reasons of spraying the water everywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGR4u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jet bottle washer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LaBlz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sweeper hose attachment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to get a stainless steel racking cane, then you can use oxiclean, PBW and any temp water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T18:47:58.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12078" CreationDate="2014-03-31T19:15:43.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's quite hard to get such a light color with extract, so start with the palest extract you can find (e.g. extra light pils extract.) To avoid too heavy a malt profile and to keep the mouthfeel in check for the style, use a large amount of adjuncts, up to 40% of , for example, table sugar, or glucose. If you start with hopped extract, aim for one in the range of 15-20 IBUs to keep the bitterness down, otherwise use a hop calculator and boil your hops for 30 mins to extract bitterness and some flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, carbonate well, around 2.5-2.7 volumes by adding the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;appropriate amount&lt;/a&gt; of priming sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite the mocking that the BMCs of the world get, brewing something comparable is quite tricky for a homebrewer - to achieve a product that has relatively little flavor even smaller amounts of faults takes a good quality assurance panel and process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to pick up a kit, my first ever was a Coopers Blonde Ale, which came out very drinkable to people who normally only drink pale lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T19:15:43.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12078" CreationDate="2014-03-31T19:41:21.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like MDMA, I have found that Blonde ales are very palettable to the uninitiated drinker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the big guys use more rice and less wheat or barley in their brews. this may accont for the lighter color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you search for clones of your favorite BMC you'll get a ton of hits on Google :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T19:41:21.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12086" CreationDate="2014-03-31T19:52:33.433" Score="1" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like corny keg prices are all oer the map.&#xA;doing a simple search for &quot;used pin lock cornelius keg&quot; I see them from $11.99 on ebay to $38.95 on Cornykeg.com &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a huge swing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relatively speaking, $40 isn't a ton of cash for something that has a lot of parts and steel, (considering a glass carboy goes for about the same or more), but if I can get 3 or 4 for the price of one, and they're the same quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a kit from my LHBS 2 kegs, CO2 tank, regulator, hoses and picnic faucet... and nw I want to have 1 or 2 kegs on deck because of the inevitible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T20:18:06.923" Title="What should I expect to pay for pin lock Corny Kegs?" Tags="|kegging|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12085" CreationDate="2014-03-31T20:18:06.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The current going prices for reconditioned kegs are closer to $60-70/ea on other sites, a bit less if you're willing to put up with cut handles or other minor deficiencies. $40/keg is a good deal. $12/keg is too good to be true. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T20:18:06.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12090" CreationDate="2014-04-02T15:28:43.240" Score="1" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so my friend and me made an experiment yesterday. We wanted to brew a &gt;20%, 300+ IBU IIPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah yeah... I know :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to the question. We used 10.5kg of grain for 26.25 liters of water for the mash. From the recipe calculator, we should have gotten around 1.208 OG. We &quot;only&quot; managed to get it to 1.120.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to ask if anyone had an idea of that poor efficiency. Mash went wonderfully at a temperature of 66°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there some point where converting to sugars in mash gets a lot harder?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the hydrometer capable of reading very high gravity readings?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anything that you can think of that could create this result?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for a 3 gallons batch (11.5 liters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3895" LastEditorUserId="3895" LastEditDate="2014-04-02T15:43:26.010" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T15:54:21.643" Title="Gravity reading much lower than exected: why?" Tags="|beer|mash|high-gravity|efficiency|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12088" CreationDate="2014-04-02T15:39:30.380" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting 10.5kg of grain in 11.5 litres of water will kill your efficiency, unfortunately: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Understanding_Efficiency#Mash_thickness&quot;&gt;Braukaiser&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Traditional British style infusion mashes are with about 2-2.5 l/kg (1&#xA;  - 1.15 qt/lb) very thick and German style mashes are generally much thinner (3.5-5 l/kg / 1.75-2.5 qt/lb). Historically this is rooted in&#xA;  the fact that the latter needed to be pumped and stirred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the limit of attenuation experiments it was shown that a 5 l/kg&#xA;  (2.4 qt/lb) mash showed much better conversion efficiency than a 2.5&#xA;  l/kg (1.2 qt/lb) mash. This is also supported by anecdotal experience&#xA;  from home brewers who found that thin mashes generally lead to better&#xA;  overall efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparatively, you had 1.095 l/kg mash thickness. If you want to try again, I would recommend you read the &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/all-grain-brewing/item/51-21-alcohol-all-grain-beer&quot;&gt;21% Alcohol All-Grain Beer&lt;/a&gt; article on byo.com. The author gets around the issue you encountered by using far, far more water (better conversion efficiency), then boiling it down to a usable final volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T15:39:30.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12088" CreationDate="2014-04-02T15:54:21.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your efficiency goes down as the gravity of your beer goes up.  That's because of the  sugar you leave behind when using a &quot;normal&quot; amount of water.  In order to increase your effieincy, you need to sparge more.  That also means you need to boil longer to drive off the extra water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T15:54:21.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11974" CreationDate="2014-04-02T16:31:51.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends on how you define &quot;body.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/body/item/89-add-body-to-your-beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BYO article&lt;/a&gt; offers a pretty solid definition on body:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Body is the sensation of palate fullness, the viscosity and feel of beer in the mouth. It is a characteristic of beer that reflects its ending density and refers to the mouth-filling and thickness properties that a given sample contains.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BYO article above goes into greater detail about proteins, starches, and enzymes -- for the sake of simplicity a higher final density, or final gravity, can easily be achieved using the following methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Utilizing a yeast strain with lower attenuation properties&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding un-fermentable sugars (like lactose) or &quot;body builders&quot; like (like flaked oats, or cara-pils malt) to your brew.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience, I would recommend adding cara-pils (maybe 0.5 lb.) to your steeping grains, and use a lower attenuating yeast. Check with your local HBS to see what yeast they have in stock for lower attenuation that meets style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6643" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T16:31:51.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12062" CreationDate="2014-04-02T22:15:12.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure you have 5 gallons when you start fermentation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that I was losing more than expected during boiling; I was only getting about 40-43 bottles instead of the expected 48-52.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I marked my fermentation vessels with gallon marks on the outside so when the instructions say to fill to 5 gallons, I know how much water to add. I now get the full 2 cases and a taste/feel that is more like what I expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T22:15:12.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12095" CreationDate="2014-04-03T04:27:52.667" Score="1" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently brewed up &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f70/rye-pale-ale-86481/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; recipe. When I went to the LHBS to get the grain, the guy there somehow knew, just from the grain bill, that I was making an IPA. Since finding and loving IPAs, I had always liked them for the hops, and I had thought this was what classed them as IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is it about the grain bill that makes this an IPA? Or more generally, what makes an IPA? Is it the grains? The hops? Both? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the recipe copied and pasted from: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f70/rye-pale-ale-86481/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f70/rye-pale-ale-86481/&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All-Grain - Rye Pale Ale&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Recipe Type: All Grain  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yeast: US-05 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yeast  Starter: No &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Batch Size (Gallons): 5.00  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Original Gravity: 1.052  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Final Gravity: 1.004  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;IBU: 32.8 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Boiling Time (Minutes): 60  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Color: 10.2  Primary Fermentation &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(# of Days &amp;amp; Temp): 14 Days at 65F  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tasting Notes: Balance of spice from the Rye and Malt sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This beer is the only beer i have consistently on tap. I have brewed&#xA;  it about 10 times now and think i have perfected it, although i still&#xA;  tweak it to experiment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Grains 5lbs Marris Otter (3.0 SRM)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.5lb Munich Malt (20.0 SRM)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.5lb Flaked Rye (2.0 SRM) 1lb Honey Malt (25.0 SRM)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;0.5lb Cara-pils (2.0 SRM)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hops&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;0.50oz Summit (16.50%) - 60min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;0.50oz Centennial (8.60%) - 15min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;0.50oz Centennial (8.60%) - 5min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mash at 154 F for 60min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I ferment for 2 weeks in the Primary then keg. Keg is usually tapped&#xA;  about one month from the time brewed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;FG listed is my measured FG, but anticipated FG from Beersmith is&#xA;  1.012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hops can be substituted freely. I'v done Summit only, Cascade only,&#xA;  Centennial and Cascades, etc. Any hop with a citrus flavor will mesh&#xA;  perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-04-04T20:02:06.470" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T14:32:12.860" Title="What is it about this receipe that makes it an IPA? Or more generally, what makes an IPA?" Tags="|ipa|grain|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12093" CreationDate="2014-04-03T05:24:35.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) makes an attempt to describe styles such as this. One such style is IPA (grouped into 3 subcategories: English IPA, American IPA, and Imperial IPA). Have a look: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style14.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style14.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right that the hop character defines the IPA style. However, a traditional IPA has some restrictions on the malt and yeast character: you'll generally have a pale beer with low levels of malty sweetness (with occasional hints of caramel, toast, etc.) You'll generally see neutral fermentation character, though English IPA's will have some fruity esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are specialty categories that have emerged which deviate from this kind of malt bill. &quot;Cascadian Dark Ale&quot; or &quot;Black IPA&quot; add some roasted notes to the malt. There are some wheat-based IPA's on the market. Some IPA's are brewed with lager yeast. From a competition standpoint, these are generally recognized as specialty beers, though there is a push for some styles, such as Black IPA, to be officially distinguished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2014-04-16T18:21:41.620" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T18:21:41.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12093" CreationDate="2014-04-03T15:01:27.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was a lucky guess.  There is nothing in that grist bill specific to an IPA.  AAMOF, it's NOT an IPA!  The OG is too low, for one thing.  The recipe even calls itself a pale ale, not an IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to what makes an IPA an IPA, the best ROT is the BU:GU ratio.  An IPA will usually be in the 1.060-1.075 OG range and have at least a 1:1 BU:GU ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T15:01:27.763" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12097" CreationDate="2014-04-03T20:36:44.167" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard mention of late addition of extracts. I was under the impression that you need to boil the extract to kill off any possible nasties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I brew, so far always from a prepackaged kit, after the steep, I get the boil going, add the steep/rinse water, bring back to boil, add liquid extract, bring back to boil, add hops, boil 60 min, add finishing hops...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what would I gain or lose by waiting to add the extract? and how late into the boil is considered a late extract addition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks and Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T21:04:02.797" Title="Why add extract late" Tags="|extract|extract-brewing|extract-plus-grains|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-04-05T11:19:11.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12096" CreationDate="2014-04-03T21:04:02.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; boil the extract to kill off any nasties. (In reality it's probably not that big of a deal, since it should theoretically already be sanitary coming from the manufacturer, especially if it's canned liquid extract)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point of adding extract late is to prevent your wort from darkening. Boiling the extract for the full 60  minutes will cause the wort to darken somewhat, so if the color of you final product is important to you, you might consider adding all of the extract only in the last 15 minutes of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; important to add at least &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of the extract with/before your bittering hop addition. It's been shown (by others, not me) that you get significantly better hop utilization when you add part of your extract as opposed to not adding any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3990" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T21:04:02.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12078" CreationDate="2014-04-04T11:45:44.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always found that using a late extract method with the lightest DME I could get and using some rice solids syrup as part of the fermentables made a great clean crisp lawnmower style beer.  I also really like Liberty hops in these types of beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this:&#xA;6 lb extra light DME&#xA;1 lb Rice Syrup&#xA;2 oz Liberty 4.5%AA (60min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And good old Dry USO5 Ale yeast fermented cool (65F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T11:45:44.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21" CreationDate="2014-04-04T13:09:40.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For this situation, you may want to consider yeast strains where extra phenol and ester production due to a stressful environment is considered a good thing in the final product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically Belgian yeast strains are more tolerable of stressful environments, in fact some brewers intentionally raise the temperature of their belgian ales in order to get the most ester and phenol production out of the yeast, which is considered desirable for these yeast strains. Other styles coming to mind are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kolsch,&#xA;Hefeweizen,&#xA;Saison&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to remember that frequent and significant temperature fluctuations are usually a bad thing for your beer. This can lead to stressed out yeast which can lead to off flavors, including acetaldehyde sour apple flavors. Anything you can do to minimize the amount of frequent variations will be a good thing. I suggest looking in to swamp coolers or swamp warmers. You may also want to consider leaving the carboy in a bath tub full of water, so that the overall thermal system is much larger and more resistant to big temperature swings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6535" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T13:09:40.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12050" CreationDate="2014-04-04T18:46:12.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;The best way to obtain yeast is to skim it from the krausen of a currently fermenting beer.&quot; -John Palmer, How to Brew&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be tough in the jugs your are using but taking some of the krausen is the best way to get the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-8.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-8.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T18:46:12.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21" CreationDate="2014-04-04T23:46:33.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While these temperatures are great for brewing, it's the swing in temp that yeast don't like.   Get as consistent as possible with refrigeration or otherwise first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, 2nd generation is actually much more tolerant to temperature swings than the 1st generation of yeast you get right out of the vial/bag. This will help you brew most types of beers without too much crazy esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beers you want to be estery are Belgian beers, which you can brew most types of beers with a Belgian strain of yeast. Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T23:46:33.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12109" CreationDate="2014-04-05T04:38:06.017" Score="1" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently completed my first batch, which was the DIPA kit from Brewer's Best.  It actually turned out much better than I could have imagined, so I was very pleased.  My only complaints, and these were confirmed by friends who tried it, was that while it had a bitter taste, it didn't have a distinctively hoppy taste.  It also had a pleasant aroma, but the aroma was not long lasting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hop profile of the kit was Columbus hops added at 0 min and 45 min of the 60 min boil, and then cascade hops added at the end for aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to get a bit creative for my second batch, and try to use this kit again but add in some additional hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on all of the material I have read, the general rule of thumb is early hops for bittering, middle hops for flavoring, and late hops for aroma.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to try is the following hop profile (I did some analysis on characteristics of hops, and picked some I think could be interesting);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bittering Hops - Simcoe and Chinook&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flavoring Hops - Warrior and Columbus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aroma - Cascade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then want to dry hop with Glacier and Palisade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, with this many hop additions, do I boil for more than 60 minutes?  Is there a right or wrong way to make multiple hop additions during a boil?  A set amount of time I should wait between each addition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6143" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T17:40:40.327" Title="Advice on my second batch" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|ipa|late-addition|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5969" CreationDate="2014-04-05T04:59:09.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you don't oxidize your beer while racking, transferring to another plastic bucket shouldn't have a &lt;em&gt;negative&lt;/em&gt; impact on your beer. The lingering C02 blanket concept is a myth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/protective-co2-blanket-303980/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/protective-co2-blanket-303980/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C02 will seek equilibrium and dissipate in a plastic bucket primary fermenter. It is just as much susceptible to oxidation there after primary is complete as it would be in a &quot;secondary&quot; plastic bucket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not to say that it isn't worth it to use a carboy with a narrow neck. Here, over time, less of the surface of the beer will be in direct contact with oxygen. You might be able to get a tighter seal resulting in less air flow. You can see what's happening to the beer through the clear container. It's easier to pop open and add adjuncts, or pull a sample. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6535" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T04:59:09.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12106" CreationDate="2014-04-05T14:52:18.177" Score="4" ViewCount="1950" Body="&lt;p&gt;When doing a multi-step mash, does the amount of time you take in between steps to raise the temperature make a difference? (Aside from the obvious &quot;taking longer will make your brew day take longer&quot;). I've only done multi-step mashes a few times. The first time I basically had my burner on the whole time and let the mash temp raise from about 120°F to 152°F over about the course of an hour. The second time, I let it rest at each step without any heat and heated between steps as quickly as I could manage to stir without scorching. Raising quickly certainly takes less brew-day time, but I can't say I noticed any difference in the final wort (disclaimer: these two mashes were not the same grist, so it wasn't an experimental comparison, so to speak).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something happening on the enzymatic level that I'm not aware of? Does this make a difference only when using under modified grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3990" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T15:34:01.267" Title="Does temperature rise time between mash steps matter?" Tags="|mash|temperature|mashing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12105" CreationDate="2014-04-05T15:34:01.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are slow to raise temp between steps, you are in effect spending more time in each enzyme's temp range.  This could have an effect on the beer.  For instance, if you do a rest at 120ish with a well modified malt (which you shouldn't do anyway!), spending longer in that low temp range can ruin the body and foam of the beer.  If you're at a beta rest temp, for instance, a slow rise time will in effect keep you in that beta range longer, which might give yo more activity than you want.  While my personal experience is that multi step mashes don't make enough difference to be worth the effort, if you are going to do them you ideally want a quick rise time and a rest at each temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T15:34:01.267" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12103" CreationDate="2014-04-05T15:35:23.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boil time is not dependent on hop additions.  There is no set time to wait.  You can add whatever you like whenever you like to get the results you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T15:35:23.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12103" CreationDate="2014-04-05T16:37:20.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to simplify your batch and increase the hop flavor and aroma, I'd make the following recommendations:  Use just Simcoe for your bittering.  It's likely you won't notice much of a difference in using or two types of hops since all of the aroma and hop flavor will boil off, leaving you with just bitterness.  For your flavor hops, move them forward to the last 10 minutes of the boil.  If you want a lot of extra hop aroma to compliment the flavor, I'd recommend a hop stand for your Cascade. That simply means that once you hit 0 minutes left, you turn off the heat, toss in your aroma hops, and let it sit for 30-60 minutes (I've only ever gone for 30 with great results).  Letting your hops sit in the kettle at near boiling temperatures, above 175°F will give you a little bit of bitterness, but mostly aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also want to be mindful of what types and how much you are adding.  If you are substituting from the kit, that's one thing, but if you're adding to the kit, you may find the hops to be quite harsh in high amounts.  You're using two well known bittering hops for flavor, which while certainly doable, may give you a significantly pungent flavor.  If I were formulating the recipe for my palette (which may not necessarily be the same as yours, I just love hoppy, dry IPAs), I'd move the chinook from bittering down to flavor, remove one of the two, probably columbus, and use that alongside your cascade for aroma.  Finally I'd try and pair the cascade aroma with something similar in flavor by adding Centennial alongside Warrior and Chinook for your flavor addition.  Quantities would depend on the OG of the ale.  All in all I'd have Simcoe for bittering, Chinook, Warrior, and Centennial for flavor, and cascade and columbus for aroma.  An alternative would be to switch the Simcoe and Columbus around if you wanted a nice piny aroma with a clean bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, just to be clear, a lot of times people will refer to boil times in descending order.  Therefor, your bitterness would be 60, flavor 10, aroma 0.  Just wanted to be clear so you didn't read my suggestion as adding your flavor at 50 minutes when I meant 10 minutes left in the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T16:37:20.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12103" CreationDate="2014-04-05T17:40:40.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a double IPA, I suggest a moderate-to-high bitterness and a massive hop flavor, with ABV in the 7.5-10% range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Denny is right-- You can really play with those hop additions and find your own groove. Remember, the later the addition, the more flavor in the final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your specific hop requirements, here's what I would do for a 60 minute boil. Times are &lt;em&gt;relative to the completion&lt;/em&gt; of the boil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bittering Hops - Simcoe and Chinook&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/2 oz each of Chinook and Simcoe pellets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add at 60 min.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flavoring Hops - Warrior and Columbus&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz each of Warrior and Columbus pellets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add at 10 min.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aroma - Cascade&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 oz of Cascade pellets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add at flameout; whirlpool for 5 min.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dry hop - Glacier and Palisade&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 oz each of Glacier and Palisade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add to the primary after 7 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave in for 7 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is a (sample) double IPA recipe that follows this hop schedule:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/sample-iipa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/sample-iipa&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some additional advice, if I may:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that you may be &quot;just going with the crowd&quot; in terms of recipe generation. What I mean is... the strict concepts of &quot;flavoring&quot; and &quot;aroma&quot; hop additions are misleading; you actually get flavor and aroma from any late hop additions, with aroma especially increasing for later, cooler-temperature hop additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully that made sense. Happy brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3811" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T17:40:40.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12013" CreationDate="2014-04-06T22:46:35.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look at your water profile. This could be a very big factor in the flavor changes that occur in your beer over time. You might want to try using distilled or spring water, if you are not already. You can also try a british ale water profile from the example on the first post of this thread:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/brewing-water-chemistry-primer-198460/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/brewing-water-chemistry-primer-198460/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6535" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T22:46:35.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12145" CreationDate="2014-04-07T02:50:56.690" Score="1" ViewCount="794" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife recently found out she has a gluten sensitivity, so sadly a number of things she loved are now off-limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As summer is upon us here in Boston, she today realized that Sam Adams Summer Ale is something she can no longer drink, and this was perhaps her favorite beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know any good GF recipes for a beer which would be comparable to Sam Adams Summer Ale?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6143" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T16:37:24.273" Title="Gluten Free Summer Ale" Tags="|ale|gluten-free|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12052" CreationDate="2014-04-07T04:34:59.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think this question can be answered without more information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what was the final gravity?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much priming sugar did you add?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what was 'the required time'?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the best advice is wait another week or two and then sample it again. I often find it can take several weeks after bottling for appropriate carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3420" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T04:34:59.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12114" CreationDate="2014-04-07T06:42:56.427" Score="4" ViewCount="3057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am eager to figure out how to measure the specific gravity of my wort using a Raspberry Pi, Arduino, or other device, but I do not wish to spend $250 for a BeerBug. People on the internet have used the RPi to count bubbles per minute in the airlock and charted them on a graph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My sole purpose of this is to determine when my RPi should tell my Fermwraps to turn on and increase the heat of the carboy. On this stackexchange I've been told it is a good idea to warm up the carboy a bit when fermentation has slowed down or stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yeasts consumes sugar and produces alcohol and CO2, and the only way for the CO2 to escape is through the airlock, then once C02 stops escaping through the airlock, no more C02 is being produced. Therefor, counting air bubbles in the airlock is a reasonable method of determining if fermentation has stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is wrong with this syllogism?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T07:44:50.683" Title="Why is counting airlock bubbles a poor method of determining whether or not fermentation has slowed down or stopped?" Tags="|airlock|co2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12113" CreationDate="2014-04-07T07:44:50.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other compounding factors are temperature changes and atmospheric pressure changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as temperature changes the pressure inside the headspace will change, causing fewer if the temperature is lower or more bubbles if the temperature is higher to be released&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;atmospheric pressure: changes in atmospheric pressure will cause more or less bubbles to be released, similar to temperature changes, but in reverse - higher atmospheric pressure will cause fewer bubbles to be released until the internal pressure matches the atmospheric pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How significant these changes are is not clear to me, but to build a complete model I would think it's necessary to monitor both temperature and internal/external pressure. Then you can decide if the bubble rate changes due to changes in pressure can be some how accounted for or ignored (obviating the need to sense pressure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I built a simple proof-of-concept &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.spark.io/t/fermenting-beer-bubble-counter/2523&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wifi enabled-bubble counter&lt;/a&gt; from a spark core a few months back that used conductance rather than a IR sensor. I've not put it to use yet in my brewery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T07:44:50.683" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12117" CreationDate="2014-04-07T08:25:12.480" Score="2" ViewCount="676" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an amateur brewer just cooked my third batch ever three days ago.&#xA;This time with a couple of friends (which also bought the ingredients from a place I haven't before), so this time I used a different recipe, the one the new store gave us.&#xA;That recipe had A LOT of sugar in it, and so as I feared, after one day in the bucket, due to extremely violent fermentation about a liter of mead was spilled, probably with a big part of the yeast.&#xA;I see some signs of fermentation although it doesn't look very active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do? Is the batch ruined? Should i just wait and see?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6652" LastEditorUserId="6652" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T12:45:40.153" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T20:49:15.640" Title="Violent fermentation | One day after brewing | Liter spillage from the top" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2014-04-07T12:42:08.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that by Fuller's IPA you mean Bengal Lancer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed the following recipe last summer for a just-over-five-UK-gallons batch, based on &quot;Sara Carter Bombay IPA&quot; which is supposed to be a Thornbridge Jaipur clone. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew.x10.mx/Recipes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brew.x10.mx/Recipes.html&lt;/a&gt; for the original. I didn't think it tasted much like Jaipur, but was struck by the resemblance to Bengal Lancer. I suspect the Amarillo led to the Fuller's &quot;marmalade&quot; taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6kg Maris Otter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;200g Vienna Malt&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(120g corn sugar for priming)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mashed at 65 degrees Celsius for an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6g Amarillo, 14g Centennial, 13g Chinook at 75 minutes,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;6g Amarillo, 13g Centennial, 7g Chinook at 45 minutes,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;32g Amarillo, 43g Centennial, 38g Chinook at flameout, steep for 30 minutes before cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used 11.5g of Nottingham yeast, not the recommended 22g. I repeated the brew later with 22g and felt the result wasn't quite as good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt however that these resemble the actual hops used in Bengal Lancer. Good luck if you try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6609" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T12:42:08.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12115" CreationDate="2014-04-07T12:47:54.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can happen - just let the mead continue as normal. It's probably equally due to temperature or the amount of yeast pitched and not just the sugar, since there are also plenty of simple sugars in honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T12:47:54.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12119" CreationDate="2014-04-07T16:00:09.543" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only reason I can find online seems to suggest that it is just because &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blogaboutbeer.com/national-homebrew-day-is-this-saturday/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AHA said so&lt;/a&gt;. I seem to remember reading somewhere once that it was related to finally repealing parts of Prohibition that allowed for beer making by individuals at home, but I can't find anything about that.&#xA;Anyone have any other historical references or reasons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T16:16:22.090" Title="Why is Homebrew Day the first Saturday in May?" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12118" CreationDate="2014-04-07T16:10:27.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a member of the AHA Governing Committee, the reason I know of is that it just is.  From the AHA website...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On 1988, May 7 was announced before Congress as National Homebrew Day.&#xA;  The American Homebrewers Association (AHA) created AHA Big Brew as an&#xA;  annual event to celebrate National Homebrew Day around the world. AHA&#xA;  Big Brew is held each year on the first Saturday in May.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T16:16:22.090" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T16:16:22.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2014-04-07T16:43:30.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebeerboy.blogspot.ca/2010/03/fullers-ipa-and-bengal-lancer-facts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;, Fuller's IPA and Bengal Lancer are not the same beer. The author, Zak Avery, claims to have spoken to the head brewer and concluded that the IPA is hopped exclusively with Golding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fuller's IPA is a beer that dates from Reg Drury's tenure as head&#xA;  brewer. It was a fairly traditional take on IPA*, being produced at&#xA;  4.8%abv on cask, and also a version that was brewed specifically for bottling. This brew used only one hop, Goldings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bengal Lancer uses Fuggles and Golding for bittering, then dry hopped with Golding and Target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bengal Lancer for cask is brewed with Goldings and Fuggles in the&#xA;  copper, and then dry-hopped with Goldings and Target in the&#xA;  fermentation vessel. An identical version is brewed for bottle, but&#xA;  slightly stronger, and it is chill-filtered and pasteurised before&#xA;  being bottle-conditioned&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T16:43:30.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12115" CreationDate="2014-04-07T20:41:06.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has happened to many brewers before and does not mean your batch is ruined. More than likely, the peak of the fermentation activity has passed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should clean your fermenter with a sanitized cloth on the outer areas where the spill occurred. Also re-clean and sanitize your air lock and lid or bung-stopper of your carboy or bucket, and reseal them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help prevent this in the future, leave more head space in your carboy or fermenter bucket. Also, try to lower the temperature of the fermentation to the lower ends of the temperature range specified by the type of yeast you are using, especially during the vigorous early primary phase. Most experienced brewers also use a blow off tube for primary fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6535" LastEditorUserId="6535" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T20:49:15.640" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T20:49:15.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12126" CreationDate="2014-04-08T12:18:40.267" Score="6" ViewCount="13582" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can hops be substituted by an easy available product? I am from India I was not able to find hops in local markets can anybody help me out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6659" LastEditorUserId="2257" LastEditDate="2014-04-12T21:10:13.207" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T16:25:44.007" Title="Can beer done without hops?" Tags="|hops|alternatives|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12122" CreationDate="2014-04-08T13:06:29.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops have only been used in beer since ca. the 13th century, where brewers used to use locally grown herbs and spices to offset the sweetness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try for example brewing a witbier and leaving out the hops, and using only coriander and sour orange to bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T13:06:29.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12122" CreationDate="2014-04-08T14:54:23.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer can be made with hops substitutes, but be aware it won't taste like any beer you've ever had before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T14:54:23.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2967" CreationDate="2014-04-08T15:11:38.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont &quot;shake&quot; my bottles while theyre conditioning. After adding my priming sugar and filling my bottles I give them a few good turn overs, which in effect could be considered a light shaking, mostly to help disperse my priming sugars throughout the bottle. After that I put them away until its time to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6591" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T15:11:38.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12122" CreationDate="2014-04-08T15:47:04.877" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, a beer created without the use of hops is called a 'gruit' or 'grut'. 'Gruit' (or 'grut') can also be the term used for the mixture of spices working as a bittering agent in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some herbs commonly used in gruit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sweet gale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mugwort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yarrow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ivy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;horehound&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heather&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;juniper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ginger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aniseed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carraway&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and really, anything else a gruit producer thought would taste good in their brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gruit fell out of common usage in the last century or two, but is seeing a bit of a revival these days, so there are lots of resources available if you google around a bit. One that I've read quite abit on is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gruitale.com/intro_en.htm&quot;&gt;Gruit Ale and Unhopped beers website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T15:47:04.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12133" CreationDate="2014-04-08T16:25:51.380" Score="10" ViewCount="5011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been in the habit of leaving my beers in their primary fermenter for three weeks across the board, which is a significant amount of time longer than their primary fermentation usually takes. My rationale is that this gives the yeast time to start cleaning up any off flavours and by-products prior to me bottling the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long does this secondary process actually take? Given that I give the beer three weeks to carb and condition after bottling, is this time redundant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastEditorUserId="6534" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T14:25:15.553" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T15:34:22.423" Title="After a beer reaches its final gravity, how long does the conditioning step take?" Tags="|fermentation|bottle-conditioning|conditioning|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11912" CreationDate="2014-04-08T16:49:53.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a very precise answer, there is actually a paper published in the American Society of Agricultural and Biological Engineers journal (&lt;a href=&quot;https://elibrary.asabe.org/abstract.asp?aid=12916&amp;amp;t=2&amp;amp;redir=&amp;amp;redirType=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;'Water Absorbtion Characteristics of Wheat and Barley During Soaking' Transactions of the ASABE. Vol. 46(2): 361–366 . (doi: 10.13031/2013.12916) @2003&lt;/a&gt;)  The abstract reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Water absorption characteristics of wheat and barley during soaking&#xA;  were measured at five temperatures ranging from 10.C to 50.C. From the&#xA;  water absorption characteristic curves, it was determined that water&#xA;  absorption of wheat and barley was in the second falling rate period.&#xA;  Using the measured data, a non–linear least squares method was applied&#xA;  to an approximate solution of the diffusion equation MR = B1 exp(–Kt).&#xA;  Values of parameter B1 for the diffusion model were estimated to be&#xA;  about 0.6 for wheat and about 0.8 for barley. Therefore, the measured&#xA;  data were fitted to the exact solution for the sphere diffusion model&#xA;  for wheat and for the infinite plane sheet diffusion model for barley&#xA;  by a non–linear least squares method. The measured results agreed well&#xA;  with the calculated results. The values determined for the diffusion&#xA;  coefficients were 1.1 . 10–12 to 1.0 . 10–11 (m2/s) for wheat and 3.5&#xA;  . 10–12 to 3.9 . 10–11 (m2/s) for barley. An Arrhenius–type equation&#xA;  was used to relate the diffusion coefficient of wheat and barley to&#xA;  temperature (T), and the energy of activation (E) for wheat and barley&#xA;  was estimated. The values determined were 44.0 kJ/mol for wheat and&#xA;  45.9 kJ/mol for barley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hopefully more useful answer for those above who don't understand what the above really all means is that wheat (and rye for that matter) don't have the same fibrous husks that Barley have, and therefore absorb less water. I've heard numbers (unsourced, from memory) of about 0.07 gallons / lb of wheat or rye malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T16:49:53.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-08T21:27:41.387" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;it's (fairly) easy to read a recipe that's already out there, or use a kit that someone else has already pre-packaged all the ingredients.  but i would like to take it to the next step and be able to calculate the correct proportions myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if i have a grape, how can i figure out its sugar content?  how do you know the correct proportions of sugar/liquid/yeast?  how do you know when to move to secondary (tertiary) fermentation?  if you alter those lengths, how will that alter the end product and which characteristics will be altered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6662" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T21:27:41.387" Title="how to calculate proper proportions to make drinkable wine" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-04-09T18:25:02.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12122" CreationDate="2014-04-09T15:05:20.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to answer this question given that we don't know what is available in your local markets. One bittering agent substitute for hops that has been used historically is spruce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look a the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spruce_beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Wikipedia article on Spruce Beer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on Spruce Beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6350" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T15:05:20.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12127" CreationDate="2014-04-09T15:08:35.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I buy extract kits complete with instructions. All of the kits I bought say ferment for 2 weeks then bottle. Then condition 2 weeks in the bottle. (one exception being a pumpkin spice ale that required 8 weeks in primary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, my blonde ales seem to like the 2 weeks just fine but the cream ale didnt really reach its prime until 3 weeks. This I know because I made 2 batches at the same time, but bottled them in 2 separate sessions a week apart because of time constraints. I needed to get a batch in the bottles for a party but didnt have time to bottle both batches that one particular day. the second batch came out WAY better. AND, the longer they were in the bottles the better they got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T15:08:35.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12122" CreationDate="2014-04-09T15:11:28.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You obviously have access to the Internet. You can buy hops online (sorry that this doesnt technically answer the question, but may solve Eaga's problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T15:11:28.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12127" CreationDate="2014-04-09T15:46:17.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the amount of time for proper conditioning after completion of primary fermentation increases with the OG of the post-boil wort. It can also be dependent on beer style and personal taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A low gravity (1.040's) ale can be ready in 2 weeks. A high gravity russian imperial stout can sometimes take 6 months to develop the flavors desired and reduce undesirable fermentation by-products. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With hoppy beers like IPAs, care must be taken to not condition for too long or else the hop aroma will fade. It's always preferable to dry hop towards the end of the conditioning period. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor to consider for conditioning time is off flavors and undesired fermentation by-products. One example is acetaldehyde due to rapid temperature fluctuations. This is something that will usually be cleaned up over time, meaning you will need to condition your beer longer than you would if your fermentation temperatures were consistent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6535" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T15:46:17.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2967" CreationDate="2014-04-09T15:57:43.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer to add sugar to the fermeter (after fermentation is completed and I'm ready for bottleing) instead to adding it to each individual bottle.  I guess this way there's no need to shake the bottles...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T15:57:43.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12044" CreationDate="2014-04-09T16:29:32.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Electro-etching works with all metals, including Aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, the makeup of the electrolyte is changed up to give better or worse results with different metals. In this case, you don't actually need an acid as per the above - just a salt water solution works fine for aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, please make sure to do this in a well ventilated area as electro-etching with table salt (NaCl) will result in small amounts of chlorine gas being produced, and that certainly is not good for you to inhale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend you test on the bottom of your pot to be sure you have your process down before etching the interior. While it's a relatively straightforward process, some experimentation in a non-visible area will help you get an idea of how long it will take to get an etch of sufficient depth / color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've etched the pot, boil a full pot of water for 20-30 minutes to re-establish your aluminum oxide layer in the areas you've etched. Note that this may make your etch a little harder to make out, but that's unavoidable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T16:29:32.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12186" CreationDate="2014-04-09T17:50:50.240" Score="5" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that it is somewhat of an inexact science/art to blend sours and especially to bottle condition them.  For the latter, you would need to have a pretty extensive understanding of not only the specific gravity, but the &lt;em&gt;composition&lt;/em&gt; of the residual carbs in the finished/blended beer.  That being the case, we are likely bottling 15 gallons or so of year-old flanders shortly, not including any blended young beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the simplest way to ensure a consistent carbonation level to pasteurize the beer then add new sacc yeast with priming sugar?  Or would a potassium metabisulfate+potassium carbonate combo work on dropping out all the bugs like it does with yeast in ciders/wine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2014-04-09T18:16:19.603" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T19:44:16.323" Title="Bottling Blended Sours" Tags="|sour|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12136" CreationDate="2014-04-09T20:26:08.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Force carb using a carb cap and PET soda bottle. Step by step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the appropriate blend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scale your blending &quot;recipe&quot; up or down to meet your bottling needs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add this blend in a PET soda bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply carb cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CO2 purge a couple times (apply little CO2, don't shake, let sit, open cap. repeat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Force carb by shaking (apply high CO2, shake, let sit, test. repeat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gently pour into sanitized beer bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cap immediately&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works well for the lower carbonated sours, but step 7 can be a big pain for highly carbonated sours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could reuse a soda bottle, but it would be better to get a fresh, unused one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T20:26:08.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12048" CreationDate="2014-04-09T20:29:45.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should use dark bottles and store them in a fairly dark place or at least no direct light on it (sun or artificial).  The source of the light won't matter, it's the intensity you got to watch out for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T20:29:45.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12140" CreationDate="2014-04-09T20:33:59.117" Score="0" ViewCount="8360" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems that when I was brewing my batch I forgot to take a gravity reading. Is there any other way to calculate ABV% without this measure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T20:51:46.247" Title="Is it possible to calculate ABV% without Original Gravity?" Tags="|original-gravity|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-04-09T21:15:28.537" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12139" CreationDate="2014-04-09T20:44:23.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can have a lab analysis done on it, but that's not practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the sugar content of the pre-fermented wort, you really have no other accurate way of determining alcohol content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you can take a couple guesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, examine your notes from previous and upcoming brews to determine your typical efficiency. Apply this to the recipe you brewed (perhaps using some beer recipe software). Depending on the consistency of your brew system, this is a good starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, consider your fermentation. Once the beer is done fermenting, take the final gravity. Look at the typical characteristics for the yeast in terms of attenuation. Now work backwards to guess at your original gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Assume you have a beer that finished at 1.015 and that the yeast has a typical apparent attenuation of 75%. You can estimate the OG as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;15 * (1 / (1 - 0.75)) = 60&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would indicate a 1.060 original gravity. The generic formula is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;((FG - 1) * (1 / (1 - (atten / 100))) + 1&#xA;&#xA;where:&#xA;FG is final gravity (e.g. 1.015)&#xA;atten is the typical attenuation of your yeast strain expressed as a % &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd use these two techniques to come up with a good guess, depending on your confidence in either one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2014-04-09T20:51:46.247" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T20:51:46.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9349" CreationDate="2014-04-10T04:49:01.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer yeasts use the Crabtree effect to undergo fermentation in the presence of (some) oxygen. On the other hand, bread yeasts prefer to undergo respiration rather than fermentation in the presence of oxygen. A byproduct of the TCA cycle is CO2-but not alcohol. If you limit your oxygen levels then you will get alcohol produced as the yeast will switch from a respiration to a fermentation pathway to produce energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6671" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T04:49:01.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12122" CreationDate="2014-04-10T11:47:22.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stinging nettles used to be used in Britain to provide bittering and anti-bacterial properties in beer brewing before hops were widely available / cultured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6672" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T11:47:22.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11067" CreationDate="2014-04-10T14:18:08.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used tart cherry juice concentrate in brewing, added after primary fermentation. I used one bottle (don't remember the size exactly--I believe 32 oz?) for a 5 gallon batch. It has natural sugars which you need to let ferment out for a few weeks so you don't make bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It added a nice, relatively subtle cherry taste without being overwhelming. Due to the tartness I think it would pair better with a maltier recipe--brown ale for example, not 100% dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T14:18:08.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12111" CreationDate="2014-04-10T14:51:22.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many resources out there for GF home brewing.  I made a quick search and I found some good recipes and information, unfortunately I can't post more than two links..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.glutenfreehomebrewing.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.glutenfreehomebrewing.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T14:51:22.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12111" CreationDate="2014-04-10T16:37:24.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also check out Clarity Ferm.  Its not FDA approved to reduce to FDA's definition of &quot;Gluten Free&quot;, but it will typically drop out enough glutens (almost all of them) to avoid reaction unless it is a really serious/intense allergy if I understand correctly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you can avoid brewing with sorgum, quinoa, and other equivalent PITAs, and just make any recipe you find, including Sam Adams Summer clones.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it is someone you care about, you may want to run some of the research/approximate dissolved glutens by her gastorenterologist/internist to see if he/she buys it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also brew a batch, treat it with Clarity Ferm, and send it to a lab to check.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can pull this off (a distinct possibility), your stock is going through the roof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this thread:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11413/any-people-with-celiacs-tried-clarity-ferm&quot;&gt;Any People with Celiacs Tried Clarity Ferm?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T16:37:24.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12052" CreationDate="2014-04-10T17:01:11.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For best results, you should add priming sugar to a bottling bucket rather than to each bottle.  Dissolve your sugar in hot water, then rack on top of it.  Gently stir the beer for a few seconds to mix it.  DO NOT AERATE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good rule of thumb for carbonating in bottles is to let them sit at 70-75F for 3 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6674" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T17:01:11.763" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12148" CreationDate="2014-04-10T23:44:23.547" Score="2" ViewCount="8709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the middle of my first brew and I'm having some issues. Not sure if I have completely ruined this thing or what. Heres the deal...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the process, everything went pretty much as planned with a few exceptions. For one, the guy at that local store didn't sell me enough DME for the kit I bought (Munton's Nut Brown Ale) so I ended up using half DME and half table sugar. I researched it beforehand it saw table sugar isn't really recommended, but can do in a pinch. Since I already opened the tin with the syrup, I figured this qualified as a pinch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second issue... my airlock O-ring wasn't set properly. Yesterday I got concerned at the lack of bubbles in the airlock and I popped the lid and saw the O-ring wasn't set. After setting the o-ring properly and reinserting the airlock, I did indeed see a pretty frequent bubble in the airlock, say every 15 seconds or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now its only day three and no bubbles at all on the airlock again. After waiting a while I decided to do a hydrometer reading. It came out as 1.010. The kit says primary fermentation should take &quot;4-7 days or until SG is below 1.008.&quot; So... Whats the deal? Did I containment when I popped the lid yesterday to adjust the airlock? I did read one forum that said table sugar often ferments faster, could it just have really gone that quickly? I did not see a lot of foam, but yesterday there was a fairly small foamy head on the brew. I certainly wouldn't say I saw a &quot;vigorous fermentation&quot; like I've seen others talk about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what its worth, the beer LOOKS fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no problem letting it sitting for as long as it needs, but if hope is lost I'd rather start over now that I know a little better what I'm doing. I definitely admit I rushed into my first brew due to a hectic schedule with work and family. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T04:08:28.297" Title="First brew... 1.010 gravity in 72 hours?" Tags="|specific-gravity|first-time-brewer|kits|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12147" CreationDate="2014-04-11T00:09:45.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, don't open the bucket if you can at all avoid it. I know this your first brew so you're excited, but in general you want to leave it alone. I don't touch my brews for 4 weeks unless dry-hopping (as in, I pitch yeast, close the bucket and don't look or think about it again for a month).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second--your beer is probably fine. The most vigorous fermentation is typically over within a few days. That doesn't mean primary fermentation is done, just that the most rapid CO2 production is likely over. After you let it sit for a while longer it may drop a few more points. I wouldn't worry too much about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T00:09:45.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12147" CreationDate="2014-04-11T00:12:30.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything you describe is totally normal. Your beer is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T00:12:30.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12151" CreationDate="2014-04-11T12:56:53.093" Score="4" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have checked my local water authority and my tap water is chloraminated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The average chlorine concentration for this Public Water Supply Zone&#xA;  from January 2013 to December 2013 was 0.07 milligrammes per litre&#xA;  free chlorine and 0.450 milligrammes per litre total chlorine. This&#xA;  drinking water supply is chloraminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read from various posts that the only way to prevent the medicinal taste is to remove this using Potassium metabisulfite but all the references I've found refer to processing 10 or 20 gallons of water at a time whereas I'm working in a small space and to small scale so would only need 500ml to 2l at any step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I be better off processing a few liters at a time and using as needed or should I process as I go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6679" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-04-11T13:22:19.013" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T15:18:36.800" Title="Storing water after chloramine removal" Tags="|water|small-batch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12150" CreationDate="2014-04-11T13:21:59.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20081120235315/http://ajdel.wetnewf.org:81/Brewing_articles/BT_Chlorine.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AJ deLange calculated that 4.7mg/L (~18mg/gl) of potassium metabisulfite (4.0mg/L of sodium metabisulfite) is needed to reduce a &quot;worst case&quot; scenario of 3mg/L of chloramine.&lt;/a&gt; (PDF, &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20081120235315/http://ajdel.wetnewf.org:81/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;via the Wayback Machine archive of AJ's site&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using this to add K-meta along with my brewing salts. That works out to 188mg for 10gl of brewing liquor. A Campden tablet is 695mg, and thus can treat 147L/39gl of water. Reduction occurs in under one minute. Treat as you go, or overkill with a Campden tablet. :) Once treated, the water will be chlorine free indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://discussions.probrewer.com/archive/index.php/t-24149.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ProBrewer forum post &quot;Campden/Potassium Metabisulfite for chloramine removal&quot; that led me to the deLange article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/articles/removing_chloramines_from_water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MoreBeer article on removing Chloramines from water&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-04-11T13:27:54.103" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T13:27:54.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12150" CreationDate="2014-04-11T15:18:36.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be better off just buying filtered water. You can usually get 5 gallons for about $1.25&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6591" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T15:18:36.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12154" CreationDate="2014-04-12T10:23:53.337" Score="4" ViewCount="5493" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/433436998/brewjacket-immersion-lager-beer-without-a-refriger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/433436998/brewjacket-immersion-lager-beer-without-a-refriger&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've spent the last year determining how I can combat the hot temperatures to brew beer. I resort to a swamp cooler and spend significant time adding frozen water bottles in order to bring the temperature down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kickstarter claims that via its &quot;patent pending solid state cooling system that pumps heat out of your fermenting beer using tiny heat exchange chips&quot; it can reduce your fermentation temperature to LAGER TEMPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely if this is possible it can be replicated, DIY, with a Raspberry Pi and/or Arduino. I don't even care about lager temps at this point; If I can simply reduce temperature to ale temps that would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I'm not about to make a donation to this at the moment. BeerBug is a very cool idea (measures specific gravity of your wort as it ferments) that was started by kickstarter, but it costs $250 for each carboy. I have 8 carboys brewing simultaneously and would rather do it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL/DR How is it possible to reduce temperature without a fridgerator or swamp cooler or other prehistoric device?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-04-12T12:53:21.800" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T12:53:21.800" Title="BrewJacket - How does this Work and How can I replicate it?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12153" CreationDate="2014-04-12T12:37:43.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It uses peltier devices - a thermoelectric cooling/heating device - when a current is applied they chill on one side and warm the other. They're quite common but relatively inefficient in terms of energy compared to a compressor that you'd find in a fridge. Their efficiency is based on how quickly you can dissipate the heat generated. Thermal design is a key factor to being successful with these devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nObJs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Peltier with heatsink and fan&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image above shows the peltier - the white square at the bottom, above that is the heatsink and above that the fan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to start building a DIY version, you'll need a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a large heatsink  (or better called a cooling fan) or metal rod that goes into the beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a heat sink and fan to dissipate heat produced by the peltier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thermal grease to bond the peltier to both hot and cold heatsinks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a DC power supply or suitable battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insulation for the carboy - this is necessary to maintain any kind of reasonable energy efficiency.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an H-bridge - this allows you to reverse the polarity so that you could also use the same device to heat. (This is optional.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just off the top of my head, but those are the main components to building any kind of cooler with peltiers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interesting point of the brewjacket is that it uses the same rod to cool and also measure temperature. This requires some smarts in software to know when the temperature read then accurately reflects the temperature of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-04-12T12:52:56.130" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T12:52:56.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12156" CreationDate="2014-04-12T21:41:50.653" Score="0" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one batch of home brew under my belt, and I am preparing for my 2nd and 3rd batches (going to get a second primary fermenter so I can have two batches going at once) so I have spent a few hours this afternoon laying out all of my supplies, and documenting what I want my cleaning process to be.  During my first batch, I pretty much flew by the seat of my pants, and while the end result was drinkable, I want to ensure I have a process recorded to easily follow for future batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stole a term from computer science, &quot;Unit Testing&quot;, which means to individually test components of an overall solution, and coined the term &quot;Unit Cleaning&quot;.  I used this to define how I would clean each individual piece of equipment.  I then defined my Cleaning Process, which then simply states &quot;Clean Brew Pot&quot;, while the &quot;Unit Cleaning&quot; module for Brew Pot would  outline the specific steps needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, below is my approach.  I would welcome any criticism from the more seasoned brewers, I want to make sure my process is comprehensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UNIT CLEANING&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brew Pot&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Add 5 gallons water&#xA;2. Add 25 tsp cleaner&#xA;3. Scrub&#xA;4. Allow solution to sit for 25-35 min&#xA;5. Rinse&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Utility Bucket&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Clean with Barkeeper's Friend&#xA;2. Rinse&#xA;3. Add 5 gallons water&#xA;4. Add 1 oz Star San sanitizer&#xA;5. Repeat steps 3-4 as needed for more sanitizer&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rinsing Bowl&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Clean with Barkeeper's Friend&#xA;2. Rinse&#xA;3. Add 8 cups water&#xA;&#xA;4. Add 3 tsp cleaner&#xA;5. Stir&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Primary Fermenter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Add 5 gallons water&#xA;2. Add 25 tsp cleaner&#xA;3. Scrub&#xA;4. Allow solution to sit for 25-35 min&#xA;5. Rinse&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Utensils&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Includes; air lock, thermometer, test tube, hydrometer, spoon, siphon/tubing, wine thief&#xA;2. Clean with solution from Rinsing Bowl&#xA;3. Rinse&#xA;4. Add to Primary Fermenter to soak&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wort Chiller &amp;amp; Tubing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Clean with solution from Rinsing Bowl, using sponge&#xA;2. Add to Brew Pot to soak&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, this is my overall cleaning process;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pre-Boil Cleaning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Clean Utility Bucket&#xA;2. Clean Rinsing Bowl&#xA;3. Clean Primary Fermenter&#xA;4. Clean Utensils&#xA;5. Clean Brew Pot&#xA;6. Clean Wort Chiller&#xA;7. Layout tarp/opened up trash bag and lay on counter to create sanitary resting place&#xA;8. After they have soaked for at least 15 minutes, remove Utensils and lay on sanitary resting place.&#xA;9. Sanitize Brew Pot&#xA;&#xA;    1. Allow Wort Chiller to soak&#xA;&#xA;10. Sanitize Primary Fermenter&#xA;&#xA;    1. Allow Utensils to soak&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan for after my boil will be to simply clean everything with Barkeeper's Friend.  I am thinking that this will get enough of the grime off, and then this routine before my next  batch will suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, the &quot;utility bucket&quot; is just a regular household bucket I use to prepare and hold sanitizer/water mixture to pour into other pieces of equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6143" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-04-14T09:16:20.267" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T10:49:16.227" Title="Critique my Cleaning Regime" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-04-14T09:16:20.267" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12155" CreationDate="2014-04-12T22:22:59.097" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to do 90% of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surfaces need to be clean of matter before they can be sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that are visibly dirty should be cleaned, but you don't need to – for example – scrub and soak your brew kettle before you use it … anything you add to it is going to be boiled, which will kill everything. The same goes for your rinsing bowl and utility bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume your wort chiller is an immersion coil. If you add it to the last 15 minutes of the boil, it will then be sanitized; no need to clean it separately (unless it's dirty).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And after using it, you can generally get it clean if you rinse it off with hot water before any gunk dries to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your brew kettle might need some actual cleaning post-boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything else can be simply rinsed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for sanitizer, only things that come into contact with cold wort need to be sanitized.  For me, that's usually only (my primary, obviously, plus racking tubing; and…) the beer thief; I transfer the sample into the hydrometer tube, but since I'm tossing the sample instead of adding it back into the wort, there's no need for the tube or the hydrometer to be sanitized or frankly even clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sanitizer are you using?  Star San has a 30 second contact time requirement, only. I might dunk my bung/airlock into a star-san solution before afixing it to my primary carboy, but literally that's all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relax. Don't worry. Have a homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(EDIT: Oh, you did say star-san. Note: use distilled water for your star-san, and it will basically last indefinitely so long as you don't add organic matter/dirt to it. Keep it in a bucket, reuse it time and time again.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-04-12T22:28:31.990" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T22:28:31.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12155" CreationDate="2014-04-12T23:35:25.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To use your template as a guide, here is how I handle each step. For the most part, &quot;cleaning&quot; is important prior to the boil, &quot;sanitizing&quot; is important for all post boil processes with the wort. For sanitizing, keep a pre-filled bucket of Star-San solution on hand. You can reuse Star-San as long as the ph remains at the correct level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UNIT CLEANING&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brew Pot&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF it wasn't cleaned after the last batch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Clean with Barkeeper's Friend&#xA;2. Rinse&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, this thing is going to be boiled for an hour or more. That will kill anything harboring in there, but you don't want any leftover trub from the last batch in there either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Utility Bucket&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your usage, this really only needs to be rinsed. Honestly, I've done hundreds of batches of beer and I only rinse mine. Sanitizer here is total overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Clean with Barkeeper's Friend&#xA;2. Rinse&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rinsing Bowl&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No idea what this is used for, but the same rules apply as the utility bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Clean with Barkeeper's Friend&#xA;2. Rinse&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Primary Fermenter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this part while the kettle is boiling. It should have been cleaned after the last use, so you really only need to fill it up halfway with water and add some one-step cleanser, give it a shake for a minute or two then let it soak while your boiling. Throw in your airlock, bung, and siphon tubing and let them soak as well. Near the end of the boil, dump it out and fill it with about 1 gallon of sanitizer like Star-San, leave the airlock, bung and siphon tubing inside and place the top on it and shake it for a minute. Place it aside still covered until you are ready to fill it with cool wort. Dump out the sanitizer just before you fill it so it stays &lt;em&gt;wet&lt;/em&gt;. No need to rinse out the sanitizer, the bubbles are not harmful to your beer and will keep the fermenter sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Add 5 gallons water&#xA;2. Add 25 tsp cleaner&#xA;3. Scrub **If this is plastic, be careful not to scratch**&#xA;4. Allow solution to sit during boil&#xA;5. Rinse **If you used one-step, you don't need to rinse**&#xA;    6. Fill with 1 Gallon Star-San&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Utensils&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Includes; air lock, thermometer, test tube, hydrometer, spoon, siphon/tubing, wine thief&#xA;2. Add to Fermenter&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wort Chiller &amp;amp; Tubing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Clean with solution from Rinsing Bowl, using sponge&#xA;2. Add to Fermenter&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, this is my overall cleaning process;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pre-Boil Cleaning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Clean Utility Bucket&#xA;2. Clean Rinsing Bowl&#xA;3. Clean Primary Fermenter&#xA;4. Clean Utensils&#xA;5. Clean Brew Pot&#xA;6. Clean Wort Chiller&#xA;7. Use a small sanitized plastic pitcher, it holds utensils and hyrdrometers equally well.&#xA;    8. Place wort chiller in boil pot during last 15min of boil to sanitize.&#xA;10. Sanitize Primary Fermenter&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to keep your brewery clean is to clean everything &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; use. That way, when your ready to brew again, all you need to do is a quick rinse and a little sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your done, commence Functional Integration Testing (FIT) and have a homebrew. What is it with software developers and brewing anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="774" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T23:35:25.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9792" CreationDate="2014-04-13T04:16:24.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://kegtrak.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kegtrak.com&lt;/a&gt; Its a simple solution. You can just use the Tags or use the app for more detailed storage of information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6682" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-04-13T11:02:26.510" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T11:02:26.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-13T11:07:38.313" Score="2" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just a beginner, only having my first batch currently in primary fermentation. Reading the directions that came with my kit it tells me in one step to do a second fermentation  for 2 to 4 weeks. While the next step is adding hops 1-2 weeks before bottling day. My question is if I ferment for 4 weeks then do I put the hops in during  week 2? Or do I ferment for 4 weeks then do 2 additional weeks adding the hops? Thank you in advance for any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6684" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T13:41:57.630" Title="adding hops during second fermentation" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2014-04-13T11:51:31.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noted that there are a few commenters above who appear to be confused about the question. Most brewers will know there is sugar at the brewing stage (eg during initial fermentation), and there is - sometimes, additional sugar added at the priming stage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original question was about the sugar used at PRIMARY fermentation. &#xA;The addition of sugar or dextrose added for priming (making your beer or cider 'fizzy') will make no detectable difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read the debunking link mentioned in this post - and it pretty much sums it up&#xA;(I'm reposting the link here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/adding-sugar-your-beer-not-going-make-taste-like-freakin-cider-90498/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Home Brew Talk&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally - if you're just starting out with brewing, don't get stuck on what kind of sugar to use. Concentrate on good sanitation practices, steady temperature and being methodical with your process. Change only one thing at a time so that you can be scientific about your brew alterations over time.  I've used normal table sugar for brewing Cider  - and it came out very cidery (that's a joke sorry)...&#xA;But I've also used normal sugar for brewing alcoholic ginger beer and it came out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about to do a whole bunch of beer using normal sugar rather than dextrose (which I've used for beer up until now). You'll see me post back here about the results in time. Thanks for reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 9 October 2014. As promised - I'm back. Over the past few months I've done 3 beer brews using stock standard home brew kits and... standard table sugar (sucrose), and at least three cider brews using table sugar. The ciders came out fine. The beers... well - lets just say they were 'ok'. Not great though. Certainly not up to the standard of some of the other beers I did last summer. Now, don't take this as conclusive evidence that Sucrose is 'no good' - as the results I had may be due to factors other than the type of sugar. For starters these brews of recent were done during winter using a heat pad at a higher temperature than the brews I did last summer with the dextrose. Another factor could be the yeast from the kit. If it's old, it will not give the same result. My last three beers have been on the flat side, (to spite using the same amount of priming) and ever so slightly sour. Clearly I've failed at my own earlier advice of only changing one thing at a time. For this I apologize.  I'm about to embark on some further brewing, for which I'll go back to using Sucrose and I'll post back again with the results... might be a few months! :o &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6685" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-05T13:24:16.303" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T13:24:16.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12159" CreationDate="2014-04-13T13:41:57.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would mean adding the hops at 2 weeks into your secondary; if your secondary is 4 weeks long and you want it to sit on dry-hops for 2 weeks, then add them at 2 weeks before you bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, I'll note that most commercial brewers only dry hop for a handful of days, not weeks.  And &quot;secondary&quot; is generally useless on this sort of timeframe. You can probably get away with doing a 2-week primary, adding the dry hops a 3-5 days before you rack out of the primary vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T13:41:57.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2556" CreationDate="2014-04-13T13:57:53.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't found corroboration for this yet, but something to think about from &quot;The Natural Testosterone Plan&quot; by Stephen Harrod Buhner: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hops is best known for its use in beer. The majority of physicians and&#xA;  men overlook its potent chemicals and do not realize that beer itself&#xA;  can significantly alter the male androgen levels. German beer makers&#xA;  noticed long ago that the young women who picked hops in the fields&#xA;  commonly experienced early menstrual periods. Eventually, researchers&#xA;  discovered the reason – hops is perhaps one of the most powerfully&#xA;  estrogenic plants on Earth. Just 100 grams of hops (about 3.5 ounces)&#xA;  contains anywhere from thirty thousand to three hundred thousand IUs&#xA;  of estrogen, depending on the type of hops. Most of it is the very&#xA;  potent estrogen estradiol. Estradiol, as it is taken into the male&#xA;  body, causes a direct lowering of testosterone levels in the testes&#xA;  and an increase in SHBG levels, which then binds up even more free&#xA;  testosterone in the bloodstream. The estradiol in hops has also been&#xA;  found to directly interfere with the ability of the testes Leydig&#xA;  cells to produce testosterone. The presence of this highly estrogenic&#xA;  substance in beer is not an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Prior to the German Beer Purity Act of 1516, beer almost never&#xA;  contained hops. In fact, more than one hundred different plants were&#xA;  used in brewing beer for at least ten thousand years prior to the&#xA;  introduction of hops in the middle ages. For the last thousand years&#xA;  of that period, the most dominant form of “beer” was called gruit,&#xA;  which contained a mixture of yarrow, bog myrtle, and marsh rosemary.&#xA;  These herbs, especially in beer, are sexually and mentally&#xA;  stimulating. (It is rare to become sleepy when drinking un-hopped&#xA;  beers.) The Catholic Church had a monopoly on the production of gruit,&#xA;  but competing merchants and the Protestants worked together to break&#xA;  their monopoly and force the removal of all sexually stimulating herbs&#xA;  from beer. They replaced them with an herb that puts the drinker to&#xA;  sleep and dulls sexual drive in the male. The legislative arguments of&#xA;  the day all hinged on the issue of the stimulating effects of other&#xA;  herbs that were used in beer. A pilsner, for example, was originally a&#xA;  henbane beer (pilsen means “henbane”), which is an incredibly strong,&#xA;  psychoactive beer, used earlier in history by German berserkers before&#xA;  battle. The German Beer Purity Act was, in effect, the first drug&#xA;  control law ever enacted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Beer, so highly touted as sexy in television commercials, in actuality&#xA;  can powerfully inhibit sexual strength in men. There is a well known&#xA;  condition in England – Brewer’s Droop – that occurs from middle-aged&#xA;  brewers’ extensive handling of hops plants. The plant chemistries&#xA;  readily transmit through the men’s skin just as they did in the young&#xA;  women in the fields. Very few physicians have looked at any&#xA;  correlation between beer drinking and androgen levels or erectile&#xA;  dysfunction problems in their patients. (How many men on Viagra are&#xA;  heavy beer drinkers?) However, the physician Eugene Shippen in The&#xA;  Testosterone Syndrome comments that one of his patients undergoing&#xA;  pharmaceutical testosterone replacement therapy, showed no response to&#xA;  the testosterone until he reduced his beer intake to one or two beers&#xA;  a night from six to seven. Hops is extremely potent and its&#xA;  consumption should be limited if not completely excluded during all&#xA;  androgen replacement therapy. These effects can be exacerbated if the&#xA;  beers you buy also contain licorice (see Licorice section at beginning&#xA;  of chapter), a fact that will not be noted the beer label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6687" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T13:57:53.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6625" CreationDate="2014-04-13T15:27:42.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can wrap the whole fermentation carboy or bucket in a black plastic trash bag. It stops light and will contain any messy spills or explosions. Be sure to leave the bag open at the top so heat and gas can escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6688" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-04-13T17:21:06.130" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T17:21:06.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-13T22:17:36.197" Score="2" ViewCount="4997" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a taste of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howesound.com/Brewery/Beers/Clouburst_Lemongrass_White_IPA.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Howe Sound Cloudburst Lemongrass White IPA&lt;/a&gt; last night, and really enjoyed the lemongrass flavour and aroma. It nicely complemented the citrusy hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I brew with lemongrass to achieve that same flavour and aroma? How much should I use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, I'd like to know: how much to use, and how long to boil it. (Or perhaps it should be added without boiling.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T02:32:54.063" Title="How should I brew with lemongrass?" Tags="|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12164" CreationDate="2014-04-14T02:32:54.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is boiled, last minute tops, just enough to sterilize it.  My recommendation is to add it after the fermentation is completed, before bottling/kegging.  If you do add them at the end of the boil, I'd probably multiply the quantity by 1.5x or even 2x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With lemongrass, I get more aroma than I do flavor.  the key is to crack the lemongrass before using it, therefor opening it up.  Take each stalk of lemongrass (I used three for a 5.5 gallon batch, wouldn't hesitate to go four next time).  Lay them across a cutting board and use the blunt end of a big knife to beat the stems, cracking them.  You want a good thorough beating, I go probably at least a dozen whacks with the blunt end of a knife.  Cut off the stalks.  You just want the roots, it'll only be about 4-6 inches in length once cut.  Dunk them and a muslin bag (and weights) in star san for several seconds to sterilize the stalks, and add to your beer.  Go for 7 days to see if it's where you like it.  If it's not enough, add another couple of stalks.  It will pair very well with citrus IPAs and Saisons (especially if you use Sorachi Ace hops).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T02:32:54.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11778" CreationDate="2014-04-14T19:30:45.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Further to Denny Conn's remark about protein clumping: this is usually called the 'protein break,' and it takes a vigorous rolling boil to make it happen. Apparently the physical action assists the process, as do real (i.e. not pelletized) hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back when I brewed beer from grain, I had to do the boil on an electric range, which limited the amount of heat I could pump into it. I could tell when I got a good protein break by scooping some hot wort into a glass mug (because it has a handle; saves fingers) and having a close squint at it. Between the swirling, floaty bits &amp;amp; pieces, the liquid itself is crystal clear not murky. This is a GOOD THING, though if it doesn't happen the beer should still be drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re: whether or not to keep the lid on, that's not a worry. You either leave it off. or deal with a nasty, messy cleanup job. I always adjusted the SG as req'd once it was safely in the primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T00:26:33.730" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T00:26:33.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11962" CreationDate="2014-04-14T20:45:12.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of google-fu turned up this video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xX6CVCD33OE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xX6CVCD33OE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No commentary, not exactly clear, and the thing looks almost homebrewer-proof, but it might help. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for re-installing the spear/closing up the keg, no doubt there's a tool available if you're willing to pay the price (and perhaps qualify to purchase one). For American &amp;amp; Canadian-type Sankeys, the primary sealing O-ring needs to be compressed, not far but HARD. Tools are likewise available, but I've found that a sturdy hook attached to a rigid bar of some kind (I used a hardwood 2X4 about 2' long, on edge), plus a 1 1/8&quot; socket to bear down on the valve body, will compress it enough to slip the snap ring into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hook the hook under one of the handle cutouts, and press down on the bar while fiddling in the snap ring. If necessary, use a longer bar or clamp the opposite end with a long enough clamp. Beats pounding on the socket till the snap ring comes home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. I'm sure you know this already, but don't forget to vent the pressure--not once but over and over again--before you even attempt any of this. Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[ edit/further afterthought. In case you've never done this before: lay the keg on its side when you vent the pressure or you'll get a faceful of froth, or worse, and use a chunk of dowel or some other soft blunt instrument to avoid scarring the ball valve. ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-04-14T23:34:34.147" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T23:34:34.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11067" CreationDate="2014-04-14T20:58:25.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to this forum--just discovered it today, still feeling my way around--but thought I'd add a comment: my absolute first choice would be cherries, not extract, but cherries are rich in pectin, the protein that makes fruit jellies gel. It could leave a protein haze that would be a long time clearing, if it ever did. Wouldn't hurt the taste, only the looks. Protein hazes can be eliminated, in theory anyhow, by papain or some other protein-digesting enzyme. You may find proprietary brands at your local winemaking supply store. They're more likely to carry them than your homebrew supplier. Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T20:58:25.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12170" CreationDate="2014-04-14T21:57:15.787" Score="3" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you think would be the best way to try and make 3 5-gallon batches and have them as consistent as possible? I am brewing for a party and want all 3 kegs to be so similar that you wouldn't be able to tell that they weren't a single batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T12:48:20.923" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T15:48:45.997" Title="How to make multiple batches consistent?" Tags="|consistency|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12169" CreationDate="2014-04-14T22:24:30.463" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blend them all together as they go into the kegs.  1/3 of each carboy for 3 kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T22:24:30.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12169" CreationDate="2014-04-14T22:55:08.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't say whether you intend to make them serially or consecutively (edit: oops, I meant concurrently). If you can't make one 15-gallon batch, or blend all three batches together after they're done (very gently, and without unduly exposing them to air) before kegging, temperature control is probably where you want to concentrate. I suggest you keep them all in the same room or the same cupboard—we do what we can, right?—and at the same temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-04-18T15:48:45.997" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T15:48:45.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2556" CreationDate="2014-04-14T23:28:43.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia seem to be the earliest recorded beer makers. They used only barley, which was essentially floor malted. I've seen a modern-day recipe using only malted barley grain and water, with the recommendation to add beer yeast. While yeast isn't required, the wild fermentation may vary by area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T23:28:43.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12147" CreationDate="2014-04-14T23:51:50.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems to me you're worrying too much. Unless a ferment seems to be stuck—which hasn't happened to me in several dogs' years of home brewing—or unless the final alcohol content really matters, I much prefer to leave the yeast to do its thing. I figure the less I touch it, the less likely I am to contaminate it. Beer is a tender thing, almost defenceless compared to wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the primary ferment has settled down, I want to get it into a carboy and out of harm's way ASAP. I don't care what the SG is now, the protective head of foam is gone and the protective blanket of CO2 is dissipating every time I lift the lid to have a look &amp;amp; a sniff. Other home brewers may be more curious, careful, or crafty. Just remember to sterilize the crap out of everything &amp;amp; you'll be fine. Enjoy your first batch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T23:51:50.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10077" CreationDate="2014-04-15T14:55:52.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if it's worth the trouble. $30 will buy you a no-foolin' Sankey coupler that should last you the rest of your beermaking (and beer-drinking) life. The proper fittings, and seals if needed, are cheap and readily available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use more than one style of keg (I have Sankeys and Cornelius), you might also consider spending another $30 or so to convert the bare bones Sankey coupler to accept ball-lock in &amp;amp; out fittings. Seems like a good idea to have all the connectors the same style. I'd post a link to the site if I knew it was OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note to Kyle: If you end up using solder, I hope you'll use the lead-free kind. JB Weld might be equally toxic, since epoxy is a known mutagen. The metal filler may likewise be suspect. Just a caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T14:55:52.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12176" CreationDate="2014-04-15T15:13:43.290" Score="3" ViewCount="821" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last time I did much home brewing I was on a municipal sewer system. A little bleach or sulphite (spent hops &amp;amp; grain, whatever) down the toilet couldn't affect it. Now that I live in the country, I worry about knocking my septic tank out of commission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a sanitizer that will do the job without snuffing the bacteria in the tank? Or is that a big worry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T18:11:44.127" Title="Sanitizing and septic tanks" Tags="|sanitation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12175" CreationDate="2014-04-15T15:52:35.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use any sanitizer you like...in the amounts you use it won't hurt the septic system.  Thfink about the hundreds of gallons of your septic tank vs. an oz. or so of sanitizer.  I've brewed 455 batches, and I've sent the sanitizer from every one into my septic system with no ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T15:52:35.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12175" CreationDate="2014-04-15T18:11:44.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little Starsan or bleach in the septic tank won't do any damage, provided it's in limited amounts (ie, don't pour a whole jug of bleach down the toilet...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; avoid putting the spent hops and grain down the toilet however. Excess solid material going into a septic system will eventually build up, either in the tank (needs to be pumped) or in your septic field, depending on design. I usually just dump it in my compost pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T18:11:44.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11236" CreationDate="2014-04-15T18:15:36.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't have much to worry about. Your septic tank doesn't have a lot of food for the yeast to consume, and it's getting dumped into a big tank just packed full of anaerobic bacteria that thrive in those conditions. It's incredibly unlikely that yeast could ever get established given the poor conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T18:15:36.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11236" CreationDate="2014-04-15T20:40:09.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, it probably won't cause any septic problems. Consider saving your yeast cake though! It cuts down on cost, and as long as you don't introduce any additives that could contribute off-flavors for later brews it has little downside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find beers tend to come out better when I re-use the cake, probably due to a much higher cell count vs using dried yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T20:40:09.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12183" CreationDate="2014-04-15T23:46:43.333" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a long-time, sometime, home brewer and beer enthusiast—though hardly a connoisseur—with an interest in different styles of beer, I was intrigued by Pietro's question re: bottling blended sours:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/12136/bottling-blended-sours&quot;&gt;Bottling Blended Sours&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once ordered a genuine Belgian lambic at some pub (I forget where, when, and what label was on the bottle) and thought it had to be spoiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my understanding that lactobacillus fermentation is responsible for, among other things, traditional-style pickles and saurkraut, and partly responsible for lambic as well as other 'wild' beers. Sourish and cloudy I expected, foul I didn't. Now I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a brand, and a supplier in Southwest British Columbia or Northwest Washington, who can provide an example so I can decide whether or not it's something I'd like to drink and eventually try to reproduce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T13:18:36.863" Title="Sour beer, lambic, et cetera" Tags="|beer|sour|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12180" CreationDate="2014-04-16T00:17:55.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is indeed not just lactobacillus, but usually a mix of lacto, pediococcus, enterobacter, acetobacter, Brettanomyces, Saccharomyces, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of excellent US sour producers in that area, regionally, but from further afield that you should have distribution of.  I believe very few are doing a traditional Guezue Lambic, but many are doing really wonderful sour beers in a broader stylistic range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Names that come to mind include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cascade (Portland, OR)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Logsdon Farmhouse Ales (outside Hood River, OR)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Bruery (Placentia, CA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Russian River (Santa Rosa, CA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lost Abbey (San Marcos, CA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Rare Barrel (Berkeley, CA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jolly Pumpkin (Dexter, MI)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allagash (Portland, ME)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crooked Stave (CO)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Glarus (WI)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Belgium (CO)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ratebeer.com/beerstyles/sour-wild-ale/52/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RateBeer's Sour/Wild Ale top rankings&lt;/a&gt; for more excellent examples and breweries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ratebeer.com/beerstyles/lambic-style--gueuze/73/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RateBeer's Gueuze/Lambic top rating list&lt;/a&gt; is mostly dominated by the traditional Belgian names: Cantillon, Drie Fonteinen, De Cam, Boon, Tilquin, Hanssens, &amp;amp;c. These are harder to find domestically, and expensive due to import overhead, but often worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-04-16T13:18:36.863" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T13:18:36.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11236" CreationDate="2014-04-16T01:05:24.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't hesitate to dump cake into the sink &amp;amp; septic tank, but I would hesitate to use spent yeast for another batch. It seems yeast cells elongate as they reproduce &amp;amp; do their thing, searching for more sugars to eat. That makes them less efficient, and the dead cells can adversely affect the flavor. One article I read (long, long ago now) suggested diluting 'spent' yeast with clear pure water &amp;amp; letting it settle awhile, then drawing off some and using it to make a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for turning the contents of a septic tank into beer: an amusing idea, but you'd probably have to dump several sacks of sugar down the sink, and use lager yeast if you live in a cold climate. At least you wouldn't have to worry about autolysis producing off flavors. Eh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T01:05:24.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12180" CreationDate="2014-04-16T02:05:30.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Driftwood, here in Victoria, brews Bird of Prey and Lustrum as seasonal release, both sour ales. If you're in Vancouver, you might be able to find a bottle or two at a specialty private liquor store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T02:05:30.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-16T16:15:07.063" Score="2" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in brewing kind of a coffee wine. Would it taste at all like Kahlua? I imagine the coffee flavor would be slightly weaker. Recipes for it I've seen have described the taste as &quot;unique&quot; but nothing very informative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6261" LastEditorUserId="6261" LastEditDate="2014-04-17T00:49:45.863" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T21:45:24.387" Title="Would coffee wine be at all similar in taste to Kahlua?" Tags="|coffee|liquor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12093" CreationDate="2014-04-16T19:43:33.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may also find this informative:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/India_Pale_Ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/India_Pale_Ale&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems IPAs are currently fashionable—these things go in cycles, don't they?—and almost any copper-coloured ale is likely to have an IPA label slapped on it. I was amused and mildly disgusted to see that Baron's, a maker of kits, has something they call &lt;em&gt;East&lt;/em&gt; India Pale Ale. As if IPA was ever anything but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T19:43:33.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12136" CreationDate="2014-04-16T21:02:40.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be good with bottling as normal. I prefer mixing the sugar and beer in a bucket to even out the carbonation levels. After a year the brettanomyces has brought the gravity down very low so I wouldn't worry about bottle bombs. Also, if you pasteurize or sulfite the beer you are robbing yourself of the beer developing further complexities. If you are still worried, you can always buy the thicker Belgian Beer bottles. I know Northern Brewer and MoreBeer sell them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as blending, the idea is to get the fresh, intense lactic sourness of a new beer and blend it with the complex barnyard characters of an old beer. The best way to do this is to taste. Sit down with known portions of each beer and figure out which percent you like the most. My suggestion is bottle at least half straight and use the rest to blend with. That way you can have vintages from different years to work with. I don't suggest bottling anything less than a year old sour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6700" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2014-04-21T19:44:16.323" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T19:44:16.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12189" CreationDate="2014-04-17T06:23:01.940" Score="4" ViewCount="2753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about using my copper immersion chiller a little differently lately...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of placing it in the wort near the end of the boil and circulating cold water through it, I'm thinking to place the chiller in an ice bath and circulate the wort through the chiller, either into my carboy or back into the kettle for recirculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a quick video of the setup here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BI43QHaNjBE&amp;amp;feature=autoshare&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BI43QHaNjBE&amp;amp;feature=autoshare&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I liked the results I got, and it'll allow me to expose less of the surface of the wort to air which I also like, but I haven't seen this approach anywhere before... any thoughts on whether it's a good idea or not or whether it should be any better or worse than the traditional immersion chilling technique?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2176" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T13:27:46.917" Title="Using my immersion chiller in ice bath instead of wort" Tags="|chilling|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12187" CreationDate="2014-04-17T12:21:14.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of people use copper immersion coils in a ice bath as a &quot;post&quot; chill, but you can also use it as your only source of chilling if you have enough ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T12:21:14.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12187" CreationDate="2014-04-17T13:27:46.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a fine idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nice thing about the &quot;traditional&quot; approach is that the surfaces that touch the wort are exposed, easily cleaned, and can be inspected for cleanliness. Plus, as someone commented, you'll need a pump to move the wort through the IC, which is another complication and something else to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a long time, I did something similar (and maybe what I'd recommend instead): an ice+water &quot;pre-chiller&quot;, which I used a $70 1/4hp Lowes sump pump to move through the IC in a closed loop. During winter, the whole pre-chiller would freeze into a solid block of ice, which I would break up with a pick and add some water to for the next brew session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people can seem to get ice near pennies/pound; it is a lot more expensive here in Vermont for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T13:27:46.917" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12191" CreationDate="2014-04-18T02:43:22.237" Score="1" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I bought some concentrated wort at a closeout sale. 'Brew House' kits have been fairly popular here in BC and possibly elsewhere, and they can produce a drinkable beer, but it seems they're shutting down the plant. Given the choice of a wheat beer and a 'Pumpkin Ale'—the only two styles they had left—I picked up 4 Pumpkin Ales, each good for 5 gallons, at 1/2 price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems I should have done some homework before rushing off to the store on their last day in business: this pumpkin ale contains actual pumpkin pulp. On the bright side, it doesn't have pumpkin pie spice and seems to have been hopped, but by God it tastes weird!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen comments on other forums emphasizing that this or that pumpkin brew has a pleasant 'mouthfeel'. If it tastes lousy, mouth feel (when did the phrase become one word? just curious) hardly matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 6 weeks or so it's as clear as anyone could wish, but still has this unmistakable pumpkiny flavor. I've had beers transform with ageing, from 'toss it down the sink' to 'glad I didn't', but I really don't know about this one. Does anyone have an opinion, or experience with pumpkin beers? I'm holding on to the neck of the carboy, ready to tip this stuff into the laundry tub...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T14:55:25.220" Title="Pumpkin Ale: what to expect?" Tags="|aging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12190" CreationDate="2014-04-18T14:55:25.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend aging it to see if the vegetable flavor drops out, as long as you have the resources and extra carboys/buckets to continue the hobby while this ages.  If not, life is too short to drink bad beer.  Should you go the route of aging, sample it every couple of weeks.  If you notice it improving, keep going until you like it.  If after a month or two it still has the same distinctive flavor, it probably won't magically flip some switch one day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I haven't had first hand experience getting that character from pumpkins, I have seen other ingredients give off that flavor, such as residual hops that made their way into a keg and then settled to the bottom, only to have the first couple of pours taste like a garden with visible hops sinking to the bottom of the glass before it transformed into an entirely different flavor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go to siphon it out of the bucket/carboy, make sure you don't disturb the yeast cake at the bottom, where all the pumpkin flavor will hopefully settle to.  If you have to move the carboy/bucket to a higher surface from where you have it now in order to siphon it, do it a couple of days beforehand and leave it covered with a blanket/t-shirt if necessary (to prevent skunking) in order to allow anything that was kicked back up into suspension to settle back out again.  Should you bottle condition, make sure you practice proper pouring and leave the yeast and gunk in the bottom of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T14:55:25.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-19T21:33:54.997" Score="4" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;For various reasons, including (a) lack of bench space, which equals ageing time; and mostly (b) an intermittent case of gout, which means that brewer's yeast is a serious no-no for me—I'm forced to think the unthinkable, namely filtering my brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given my equipment, methods, preferences, and prejudices—50-litre batches, hoppy low-gravity ales (+/- 4% alcohol), and no pumps in the system—I figure on using twin Sankey kegs, driving the beer from one keg into the other with CO2 at some modest pressure, and at room temperature, then tossing the filtered keg into my kegerator and force-carbonating it cold. My kegerator can hold 2 50-litre Sankeys, or one Sankey and whatever Cornelius kegs I can shoehorn into it. Extended lagering, cold-filtering, and fining for clarity, are out of the question, at least in warm weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen two basic filter types discussed on other homebrew forums: stacks of cellulose pads in plastic holders, with thumbscrews to keep things tight; and cartridge types, whether purpose built or adapted to filtering beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is what to put between the two kegs. I've read that the pad types tend to clog quickly, and from past (very distant past) experience I believe it. Plus I've found they can leak or weep. No fun, so I'm inclined to favor a 'whole-house' type of cartridge system, most likely a pair of Rainfresh filters in series, the first being 5-micron, the second 1- or 2-micron, both nominal not actual. Don't want to wring all the goodness out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd welcome any thoughts or opinions on the subject, and any suggestions for a better filtering method than the one I have in mind. Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-04-20T00:49:38.147" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T19:39:39.773" Title="Filtering recommendations (other than 'don't')?" Tags="|filtering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12195" CreationDate="2014-04-20T00:58:19.590" Score="2" ViewCount="431" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why, during sparging, do all-grain brewers drip water over the grains instead of simply filling it up with water again and redraining that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-04-20T19:35:38.920" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T19:35:38.920" Title="Why drip water through mash while sparging (fly/continuous) instead of batch sparging?" Tags="|all-grain|sparge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12194" CreationDate="2014-04-20T06:42:25.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's simply a different technique.  Batch sparging (filling up the mash tun and then draining) versus fly sparging (dripping water while simultaneously draining) is a long standing debate where folks like our own &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/ki61_HppGnY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Denny Conn will side with batch sparging&lt;/a&gt;, while others will take the side of fly sparging.  They both generally yield very similar efficiencies, so to say one is better than the other is often moot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trend that I see the most is that if a brewer is using a level brewing stand (single tier) with pumps, more often than not they'll utilize fly sparging.  There are exceptions to this of course, but more often than not, if pumps are used, brewers will often use the fly sparging technique where others who don't use a pump will batch sparge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T06:42:25.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-20T15:00:49.350" Score="6" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a recipe does not call for a yeast starter, would it help or be harmful for me to add a yeast starter? The current brew I have going has a O.G. of 1.070.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6684" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T15:19:11.017" Title="yeast starter, always a good addition?" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12196" CreationDate="2014-04-20T15:11:25.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's almost always a good idea.  Pitching the right amount of healthy, active yeast is one of the easiest and most important things you can do.  This is especially true for high-gravity beer, which is harder for the yeast to grow in.  There's a great and fairly concise discussion of these issues on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/pitching.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr. Malty&lt;/a&gt;, as well as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;calculator&lt;/a&gt; that tells you how many yeast cells you'd ideally want for a given starting gravity, volume, and whether it's an ale or lager strain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calculator says that for 5 gals of 1.070 OG, you'd need about 250 billion viable cells.  A single vial/smack pack only has about 100 billion viable yeast cells at most (less if its old).  You could pitch two packs, but that gets expensive.  Alternatively, you could make a two-liter starter (2000ml of water + 200g of DME), pitch the yeast in that, and shake intermittently to grow 250 billion cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2390" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T09:23:20.353" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T09:23:20.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12196" CreationDate="2014-04-20T15:50:51.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIAC, any brew over 1.040 OG will benefit from a yeast starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T15:50:51.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-20T20:17:23.340" Score="1" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;(This title is purposely worded after this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3507/how-can-i-learn-the-distinctive-taste-of-various-hops&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about to begin all-grain brewing soon. I'm excited about all of the options, combinations, and ratios of the different grains, but it is very daunting. I have 8 carboys so I might as well use them to learn the distinctive taste of various grains and combinations of grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for this tasting experiment to be valid, I would need to use the same yeast and hops across every batch. I figure that it would be best to use a shy or weaker yeast and hops, meaning those that would allow the grain to come through more fully, and to use a yeast/hops that interact well with all combinations of grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which yeast and which hops would fit this criteria?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, am I missing key pieces of information here? For example, perhaps there does not exist a single combination of yeast/hops that work with all combinations of grain. This could mislead me into thinking that I do not like the taste of a certain grain, when it was really just the yeast or hops that I chose and their interaction with the grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T17:08:02.047" Title="Which yeast and hops should I use to learn the distinctive taste of various grains?" Tags="|all-grain|malt|grain|specialty-grains|base-malt|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-21T00:06:45.013" Score="7" ViewCount="1392" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, the all-grain brewer warms up water to a particular temperature (usually 10-15*F over the strike temperature), adds this warm water to the grains in a mash tun, in an attempt to hit a particular temperature (around 145-160*F depending on the grains/style of beer), and then dumps the wort after an hour. I also understand that it is important to keep the temperature of the mash tun consistent at the desired temperature for this entire time; this is why a cooler is recommended for beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However in a few YouTube videos, I've seen the all-grain brewer feed in a temperature probe into the mash tun and leave the cooler lid slightly ajar to allow for this. To an extract brewer like myself, this looks pretty silly, as the temperature would remain more consistent with the lid fully closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a risk that (even in a cooler mash tun) the temperature might drop significantly enough to warrant additional hot water, such that measuring the temperature is more important than closing the lid completely? Or is there something else I am not considering?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time I would LOVE to use my RaspberryPi to record this temperature. I'm thinking about drilling a hole for an airlock and feeding a temperature probe into the airlock (as I do with my carboys) to enable me to record the temperature of the mash tun while having an airtight environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-04-21T12:29:54.580" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T12:29:54.580" Title="Do I need to continuously measure the temperature of my mash tun?" Tags="|mash|all-grain|temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12199" CreationDate="2014-04-21T00:18:10.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing is a lot like cooking. You can't often try ingredients in isolation - you wouldn't normally eat pure salt, pepper, chili, vinegar etc... the taste would be far more potent than it would normally be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But combined with some other ingredients (meat, fish, tomatoes etc..), they become wonderful with something else to play off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same is true with beer. I'm not really a fan of SMASH brews - brewing is an art, not a strict science, and you cannot formulate the end result in terms of some simple preconditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are starting all grain, then begin with established recipes. At least you have many other brewers to compare notes with to see if your process gets you on target. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the equipment dialed in and becoming fluent with the awesomeness of all-grain brewing is challenging enough, so when starting out it's best to take an established recipe and tackle ingredients and recipe formulation later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I see this answers this specific situation for Matthew's case, but the headline question is more general, so I'll answer that too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line if you want to really expose the grain is to use neutral yeast and hops. What is considered neutral is also a contested point, but IMHO the yeast is Danstar Nottingham and Magnum hops for bittering. But frankly I would simply taste the grain pre-ferment - chew on a few grains and build comparisons from that. For color, then steep a measured quantity of grain in a measured quantity of water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-04-21T00:42:10.730" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T00:42:10.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12200" CreationDate="2014-04-21T01:34:43.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience, yes. Or rather, YES!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd think that, with sufficient paddling, a uniform temperature should stay fairly uniform. I haven't found that to be the case. I'd hit (e.g.) the protein rest, stir the crap out of the mash, check and recheck the temp, and when I came back 10 or 15 minutes later it would be 10 degrees hotter in the middle, cooler at the edges. Seems to me that, unless you have an extremely well-insulated mash tun, plus some kind of auto-stirring device (right, like any of us can afford that) you need to watch it like a hawk. And keep stirring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re: point 2, I'm not sure that an airtight environment is necessary or even desirable, except in the interest of avoiding heat loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T01:34:43.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12200" CreationDate="2014-04-21T04:00:59.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the most important thing you need to accomplish is understanding your brewery. Begin by taking notes. Record the temperature every time you take it throughout the mash. But be sure that the temperature is uniform by stirring thoroughly, this can and will be a frustration for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, you'll have a better idea for how much temperature you'll lose during the mash. If it's less than a couple degrees, you're most likely fine leaving the mash untouched the whole time. In this case, you might err on the high side for strike water and (again) keep good notes -- if the body of your beer seems off, adjust your strike water accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your temperature changes much more than a degree F, it would be a good idea to re-introduce heat throughout the mash. A simple way to do that would be to add hot water when the temperature drops. However, this technique can be very tricky to pull off because of the difficulty in measuring consistent mash temperature and volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other common techniques are to circulate the wort through some system which can add heat. Research 'RIMS' and 'HERMS' systems if you're interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many commercial breweries use a steam jacket system. The idea here is the same as the mash tun - prevent heat loss in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, especially as you're getting started, realize that you can easily make things worse when you try to make them better. For your first handful of batches, I'd suggest trusting the strike water temperature calculations, stir very thoroughly, and take notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Raspberry Pi is a great instrument for reading temperatures. I'm working on a custom system which uses the Raspi, DS18b20 temperature probes, and Camco heating elements to monitor and maintain temperatures, and it has worked extremely well for me so far. I also use similar setups to maintain fermentation control. If you're interested in implementing something similar, I'll be happy to pass on some tips I've learned along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T04:00:59.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12200" CreationDate="2014-04-21T12:28:50.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Continuously&quot; is overkill, &quot;Periodically&quot; is more reasonable. In my experience there are many variables: the insulation of the mash tun and the ambient temperature are the most influential. I used to mash in a round 10-gallon cooler. When the ambient temperature was warm (70F+), and the mash volume was sufficiently large (4-5 gallons+), I found that the temperature would only drop by a couple of degrees in an hour. With smaller volumes and colder temperatures, it would drop more quickly. Over time, I learned what to expect from that system, and, when I knew the conditions were favorable, I often did not check it until moving to a mash-out step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now use a converted 1/2 keg for my mash tun in a RIMS system. Brewing in the winter, I see that the heater element is on almost constantly, where in the summer it is off for the majority of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T12:28:50.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12199" CreationDate="2014-04-21T12:54:15.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pick a style of beer that is balanced more toward malt than hops -- a highly hopped IPA is going to hide a lot of the malt flavor. Something like an ordinary or special Bitter, Scottish ales, blond ale, or many of the lagers will give much more malt flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;American Ale yeast (Wyeast 1056, White Labs WLP001) tend to be very neutral, as do some of the British Strains. For lagers, I would recommend either American Lager, Danish lager, or Munich lager strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With hops, stay away from the citrusy American Ale varieties (Cascade, Simcoe, etc.) in any late additions. In fact, it is best to get most of your IBU's from bittering hops added 60 minutes before the end of the boil. The noble varieties (Hallertau, Saaz, Kent Goldings, Fuggles) are good choices to blend in and let the malt come through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within these parameters, try a recipe where you vary malts within the style.  For an English bitter, try varying the base malt, (Briess 2-row, Maris Otter, Golden Promise, ...), and add different specialty malts: Crystal, Biscuit, Victory, CaraMunich, etc. With a darker beer (brown ale, porter, stout), you can play with Chocolate, Roasted Barley, Black Barley, Black Patent, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend the Ray Daniels' classic book, Designing Great Beers to help guide recipe formulation (although it is dated with regards to hops).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T12:54:15.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12199" CreationDate="2014-04-21T14:15:54.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will want to use a neutral yeast and ferment at the lower end of the temperature range for that yeast. Probably the best bet is WLP001, Wyeast 1056 or Safale US-05. These yeasts all contribute minimal phenols and esters, and allow grain and hops to shine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For hops, I would suggest a noble variety, such as saaz, tettnang, or Fuggles. Use only a bittering addition, with little to no flavor and aroma additions in your recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is mash profile - you will want to go for a medium to full bodied mash profile in order to retain more of the grain flavor. This means mashing at medium to higher temperatures, 152-156F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this article for an excellent comparison of base malt types, including description of the test methodology:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/English-Base-malt-comparison.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/English-Base-malt-comparison.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6535" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T14:15:54.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12199" CreationDate="2014-04-21T17:08:02.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally agree with most of the recommendations, but I would shy away from a lot of the hops choices, especially Fuggles.  It has an earthy, woody flavor that could conflict.  I'd recommend a small bittering addition using a very neutral hop like Magnum with no other hops.  Also, if you just want to learn the flavor of grains, it's easy to make a tea with them and taste that.  Saves brewing a whole batch.  It doesn't work so well with hops, but with grains it's simple and effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T17:08:02.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-22T09:31:09.770" Score="0" ViewCount="431" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three weeks ago I racked and bottled some perry. Before bottling, I filtered it through a kitchen cloth. I added a teaspoon of sugar per bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the exact same approach, I got a rather foamy apple cider. The perry however is rather flat, hardly any carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After filtering, the perry was rather clear. I suspect that for some reason there's not enough yeast in the bottles and I plan to add some. But are there other possible reasons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3959" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T20:00:03.497" Title="Secondary fermentation not working, is my diagnosis correct?" Tags="|cider|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12211" CreationDate="2014-04-22T11:59:32.430" Score="4" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the same 10G aluminum BK since I started AG brewing, about 4 years and 70 batches.  I recently left my copper IC in it for a few months and think I may have corroded the aluminum, so it may be replacement time.  I am considering stainless steel, but want to know any advantages it brings for just about double the price of aluminum.  I should mention that I brew in a bag in this vessel (my bag was sewn custom for this kettle).  I also have a step-drill (weldless) installed brewmometer and valve installed in the kettle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-What are the advantages/disadvantages of SS vs. aluminum?&#xA;-Will I compromise the stainless coating by using a step drill/pilot hole for the valve and thermometer fittings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T12:21:48.827" Title="May be time for new kettle. Advantages of Stainless Steel?" Tags="|boil-kettle|stainless|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12210" CreationDate="2014-04-22T12:21:48.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main advantage with SS is that it is quite inert - had you had a stainless kettle, the corrosion problem you experienced with the immersion chiller wouldn't have happened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's happened once, it's quite likely to happen again, meaning you'd end up buying 2 new aluminum kettles (for a total of 3.) So in the long run stainless will work out cheaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't compromise the passive oxide layer from boring holes, it forms naturally in contact with oxygen - just be sure to clean the part well after making a hole. I drilled many holes in my 3 SS kettles (see my avatar) and I have had no problem in 3 years (although I used a step bit to make only the pilot hole for the conduit punch, which makes a much cleaner hole.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the money, go with stainless, you won't regret it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T12:21:48.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12209" CreationDate="2014-04-22T13:29:09.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you sanitize the kitchen cloth you use to filter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always do the filtering when passing the wort to the primary because is easier and always with sanitized equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time try adding sugar to the whole beer (in the fermenter) instead to each bottle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T13:29:09.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12209" CreationDate="2014-04-22T19:46:41.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely that a coarse filter like a dish towel would remove &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the yeast from the perry, but it could have removed enough to slow fermentation down. The other possibility is that there's lack of yeast nutrient, which would also cause slow fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing you should try is waiting longer. Keep the perry in a warm (~70&lt;sup&gt;0&lt;/sup&gt; F.) place. Give it another month to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If time and patience don't work, you could try removing the caps/corks and adding a few grains of yeast, and a pinch of yeast nutrient to each bottle. Then wait another month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, you should sanitize everything that comes into contact with the perry, even after fermentation is complete. Even though most of the sugar has been metabolized by yeast, there are still bacteria that can affect the perry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T19:46:41.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12196" CreationDate="2014-04-22T22:25:46.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The conventional wisdom is to use starters, per the other answers here. I won't argue with that--there's certainly no harm in pitching a lot of healthy yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I've gotten very good attenuation at times just pitching dry yeast. My last brew was 1.077 and I pitched one packet of US-05 (5 gallon batch). So far it has fermented to 1.006. Pretty good. I wouldn't necessarily recommend doing this (I did it because that's all the yeast I had on hand) but if the rest of your technique is on point you don't necessarily need to worry too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of going to the trouble of starters, I personally prefer to re-use yeast cakes. Ideally, immediately after siphoning off a batch I pitch fresh wort right on top of the cake. Alternately, I save 1 liter or so of the yeast and refrigerate until the next brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T22:25:46.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12217" CreationDate="2014-04-23T11:58:28.257" Score="1" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;My set up is for electric BIAB (brew in a bag) so I use a false bottom.  The problem is that I don't know if the stainless steel I use is food grade or not.  Are there any great risks for my health? Should I replace it or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-04-23T12:18:00.700" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T13:29:37.913" Title="Risks for health from non food grade stainless steel false bottom" Tags="|biab|stainless|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12216" CreationDate="2014-04-23T13:29:37.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of non-food-grade stainless steel. Some are more or less susceptible to corrosion than others, but as far as I know all stainless steels are food grade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] stainless steel is a safe option when it&#xA;  comes to use with food and beverage, as there are no chemicals that&#xA;  can migrate into your food from these products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://mightynest.com/blog/stainless-steel-all-about-food-grade-304-188-and-1810&quot;&gt;http://mightynest.com/blog/stainless-steel-all-about-food-grade-304-188-and-1810&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T13:29:37.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12209" CreationDate="2014-04-23T20:00:03.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last time I had trouble with bottle conditioning, I agitated all of the bottles just a little bit.  I picked up each bottle, tilted it to the horizontal, gave it a half-turn, then put it back into the box where I keep my bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a few more days I had good carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6713" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T20:00:03.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-24T05:10:19.183" Score="4" ViewCount="437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few brews that a friend wants to try, and in the interest of safety, it's probably best I send them home with the brews rather than letting them drive home afterwards. I'd like to send the brews with instructions on how to chill, wait for settling, and how to pour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, while I could write up a simple text version, it would be neat if I could print out an infographic to send with the six pack. Does anyone have a fun, 8.5x11 (or smaller) infographic on how to enjoy a homebrew/bottle conditioned beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd make one myself, but I'm quite graphic design challenged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T15:28:34.407" Title="Bottle Conditioned Infographic" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12221" CreationDate="2014-04-24T10:31:40.443" Score="1" ViewCount="2358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some amateur experience with homebrewing, which started out with very small batches and small pots. I have now a biggish aluminium pot of 30 liters (circa 8 US gallons) and the heating method I use (heating on the kitchen's hob) is simply impractical. It was slow before, but now it just takes forever to bring the wort to a boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in a small apartment without outdoor access (well, we have a balcony) and gas is not an option. I have been wondering about using the heat element from a water kettle to do the heating. Something very similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ToDK9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a cheap solution (at least for the time being I want to keep it cheap) and it should be relatively easy to attach the heat element to my pot. My question is: is this safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6702" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T13:27:01.603" Title="Is it safe to use a water kettle heat element?" Tags="|water-heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12220" CreationDate="2014-04-24T11:20:35.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution you posted looks ok, but is probably quite a pain to attach this to the side of your brewpot. It should be safe since it's meant for heating potable water. As to electrically safe, that really depends upon how you make the connections - at the very least you don't want live conductors exposed on the outside of your kettle, and you need to be sure your kettle is connected to ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many brewers that go electric (me included) use heater elements mainly used in hot water tanks - a search on amazon for example for &quot;camco element&quot; shows you some examples. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come with a threaded base, so you just need to make one big hole in your kettle and secure with an o-ring and a locknut. The process is described in detail at &lt;a href=&quot;http://theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Electric Brewery&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-04-24T13:27:01.603" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T13:27:01.603" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12255" CreationDate="2014-04-24T14:32:10.777" Score="1" ViewCount="3008" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a higher gravity beer, an Amber specifically. With the yeast (Dry Yeast - Safale S-04) I currently use, I get stuck at about 5.8% ABV (SG 1.074, current gravity 1.030). Do I need yeast starter? Do I need to use a different type of yeast? Are some yeasts better in more alcoholic conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T22:41:15.963" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T22:41:15.963" Title="What type of Yeast can withstand high gravity beers?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12222" CreationDate="2014-04-24T14:56:31.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;5.8% ABV is not considered &quot;higher gravity&quot;. There should be no problem S-04 or most any dry or liquid yeast up until closer to 10% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your fermentation is either stuck or simply not complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When did you brew? What size packet of S-04?  Did you pitch the whole packet? What fermentation temperature?  Did you do anything for aeration/oxygenation of wort?  What was your brewing procedure; did you do a full-volume boil, or top up with water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T14:56:31.140" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12222" CreationDate="2014-04-24T15:03:13.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wort is what determines fermentability in general, not yeast.  Almost any ale yeast can easily ferment a 10+% beer.  But if you don't make a fermentable wort, the yeast doesn't matter.  Many times extract beers are less fermentable due to the way the extract is made.  An all grain beer mashed at a high temperature or with large amounts of less fermentable malts like crystal can finish high, also.  If you have consistently high FGs, look first at your recipe and ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T15:03:13.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2992" CreationDate="2014-04-24T19:21:42.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To clean up the bottles use dishwashing powder (the stuff you put in the auto dishwasher) as it will dissolve all the dried on beer residue quickly and it rinses off quickly in hot water. I usually add a good teaspoon or two to each bottle and fill with hot water and let soak. When I rinse I shake the bottles out hard and rinse 4 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sterilise - in order to preserve the beer quality &amp;amp; head retention I only use boiling water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heat a 10l pot to the boil and fill the bottles half way before shaking the hot water out. Use gloves. This also ensures a final rinse of any chemical residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6719" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T19:21:42.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12227" CreationDate="2014-04-24T20:26:28.773" Score="1" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the initial phase of my HERMS project, and I'm struggling to come up with an elegant solution to waterproofing the hole where my copper pipe will enter the hot liquor tank. Ideally I'd like some kind of thru-hull (below) that has fittings on either side I can attach the pipe to, but for the life of me I can't find one. What is the typical solution for this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3jkQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;thru-hull&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6717" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T07:11:48.550" Title="HERMS waterproof hole in heat exchanger" Tags="|equipment|water-heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12226" CreationDate="2014-04-24T23:07:47.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/hot-liquor-tank?page=4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Electric Brewery&lt;/a&gt; has a step-by-step guide for mounting a valve and quick disconnect to the kettle wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize, pass a 1/2&quot; threaded nipple through a hole in the kettle. On the outside, secure with a lock nut and high temperature silicone o-ring. On the inside, secure with an FPT compression fitting. The stainless tubing is connected on the inside to the compression fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T23:07:47.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12229" CreationDate="2014-04-25T04:22:22.150" Score="3" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might sound like a weird question, but there I go. From what I read and learnt &quot;dry hopping adds fragile aromatic oils&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know where do these oils settle in the carboy? On top of the beer? On the bottom? They are kind of mixed everywhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me this seems important to know because if they are on the bottom, this means we better dry hop with a clean bottom!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3895" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T11:54:20.717" Title="Where is the oil produced from dry hopping?" Tags="|beer|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12228" CreationDate="2014-04-25T11:54:20.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oils aren't produced from dry hopping, the oils are in the hop cones themselves.  Its the stuff in the lupulin glands of the cones that contains the oils.  I usually see the oil floating on top of the beer in the carboy.  But that likely isn't the only place the oil goes.  Its pretty sticky stuff and a lot of it sticks to the yeast, proteins, trub and the sides of your carboy, kegs and or bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jryoq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture is from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hops&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hops wiki page&lt;/a&gt;.  (I just wanted to see if I could do it right.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T11:54:20.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5917" CreationDate="2014-04-26T07:26:09.060" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clean pure ethanol diluted to about 5% with distilled water does have some sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6725" LastActivityDate="2014-04-26T07:26:09.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9835" CreationDate="2014-04-26T13:44:12.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For moving full and closed fermenters most home improvement stores and garden centers have rolling platforms for large planters that might help. Just keep a couple hands on it as you roll it to wherever it needs to go. Other than that try to do all your brew process in one area and let gravity or pumps help with moving liquids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6728" LastActivityDate="2014-04-26T13:44:12.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12235" CreationDate="2014-04-27T02:28:51.693" Score="7" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started my first cider homebrew, and broke a cardinal rule. I made the mistake of thinking that BSG B-Brite cleanser was also a sanitizer. I made two batches from pasteurized juice without campden tablets in brand new containers (one 6 gal carboy and one 7.5 gal bucket). I thoroughly washed everything in the B-Brite but used no sanitizer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I expect this to be a wasted batch? Is there anything that I can do before fermentation starts that will help reduce the risk of getting a large batch of vinegar like adding campden tablets before fermentation starts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6732" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T23:28:25.017" Title="How screwed am I (sanitation)?" Tags="|cider|sanitation|beginner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12234" CreationDate="2014-04-27T02:40:51.853" Score="6" ViewCount="542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if someone could give some guidance on how I could go about starting up my own home brew. I have very little experience with brewing (I've only ever drunk beer), and I'd like to know the ins and outs of doing it at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So these are basically my main questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What guides/tutorials would best suit a complete beginner?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much do I need to invest in equipment in order to make a decent yield (assuming that's a good thing)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leading on from the last one, would I start off brewing a small amount?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long does it take to brew a 'typical' home-brew style beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've heard that it can be quite dangerous - what do I have to watch out for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And of course any other useful advice to set me off would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also interested in any of your own experiences or interesting stories that others might also find useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6733" LastEditorUserId="6733" LastEditDate="2014-04-28T07:40:52.457" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T16:39:11.437" Title="How to get started with brewing at home" Tags="|beer|brewing|beginner|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-04-27T17:25:25.903" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12233" CreationDate="2014-04-27T07:51:47.117" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to get started is to find out if you have a friend, co-worker, or other acquaintance who brews and is willing to brew a batch or two with you. This is ideal as you don't need to buy anything to get started -- your friend will have it all. Of course, bringing a six-pack or buying the batch's ingredients is always a good gesture :). If you find you like brewing your new best buddy can also be an excellent resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't know anyone who brews, your next best bet is to get a book or two. I got started when I receieved &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0060531053&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Complete Joy of Homebrewing&lt;/a&gt; as a birthday gift one year. This book has everything you'll need to get you on your way. Another book option is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381888&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt; (the first edition is &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/intro.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;available for free&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure which of these books I'd recommend over the other as they are both high quality resources. Check them out at your local bookstore (or sometimes Amazon has a preview of the first chapter or so) and see which you like more. You really can't go wrong with either, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much do I need to invest in equipment in order to make a decent yield (assuming that's a good thing)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most homebrew stores will sell you a starter kit that has all the equipment you need to get rolling plus the raw materials for your first batch. I'd say $200 is ballpark on what you could expect to spend for a decent setup to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Leading on from the last one, would I start of brewing a small amount? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical homebrew recipes are for a 5 gallon (19L) batch. You can brew larger batches but it requires more costly equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How long does it take to brew a 'typical' home-brew style beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't a &quot;homebrew style&quot; of beer. You can homebrew any style of beer you want: pale ales, ambers, stouts and so on. Some of these take months others turn around in weeks. I believe the first recipe on The Complete Joy of Homebrewing takes a total of around two weeks. So I guess the answer is the always helpful: it depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've heard that it can be quite dangerous - what do I have to watch out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing particularly dangerous in homebrewing. You might get some over-carbonated bottles that explode. Aside from that quite a few different cleaning and santizing agents are commonly used in brewing which if misused could be harmful. Read the labels, follow instructions, you'll be fine. If you're unsure ask questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And of course any other useful advice to set me off would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Relax_Don%27t_Worry,_Have_a_Home_Brew&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Relax. Don't worry. Have a homebrew.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1006" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-04-28T16:13:18.373" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T16:13:18.373" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12232" CreationDate="2014-04-27T12:28:19.053" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;B-Brite is an active-oxygen-based cleaner, and these do a good job of making the item sanitary. While they are not classified as sanitizers, that is mainly because of the formal requirements and certification procedures, but in practice they can do a good job of sanitizing. I know people that use only ChemPro, Oxiclean and other active oxygen based cleaners to sanitize and have not had a wasted batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you add campden tablets you will kill all organisms including any yeast you have pitched, so you'll need to pitch yeast 24-48 hours after pitching the campden tablets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T12:28:19.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12233" CreationDate="2014-04-27T15:36:31.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A great place to start is by reading the info from the American Homebrewers Association.  It covers everything from equipment to ingredients to process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/lets-brew/beginner/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/lets-brew/beginner/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T15:36:31.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11962" CreationDate="2014-04-27T15:45:15.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this tool:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.candirect.de/Ein-Ausschraubadapter-fuer-Korbfitting-ohne-Knarre&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.candirect.de/Ein-Ausschraubadapter-fuer-Korbfitting-ohne-Knarre&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is meant to open Type S kegs, but I haven't purchased it yet so I won't be accepting my own answer unless/until I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1770" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T15:45:15.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-27T21:59:39.240" Score="1" ViewCount="993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased two used kegs from NB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to Home Depot with one of the kegs and bought the deep sockets to take the posts off. In the store I was unable to pull either the in or out posts out. I called over an employee, who tried and failed as well. He called over another employee, and they retrieved an extension to the socket wrench to give us more leverage. All three of us were simultaneously trying to get the posts off, but it wouldn't give.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After coming home I spent another 15 minutes on the beer/out posts, and it managed to come lose. I have no idea how I did it or how I could replicate it. Too bad however-- I must have picked up the wrong socket for the gas/in poppet, so I'll need to head back to Home Depot and try this again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other keg came lose very quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How hard must I tighten the posts on the keg? I don't want to be in a position where three grown men are unable to open a posts.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just barely tighten it, or should I tighten it as hard as I possibly can?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- Edit - I meant to say &quot;post&quot;, not &quot;poppet&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- Edit - I repurchased the correct piece to remove the gas/in poppet and was able to open both kegs easily. I'm not sure what I did this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-04-28T05:52:11.813" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T11:53:00.550" Title="How hard must I tighten the posts on the keg?" Tags="|kegging|keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12239" CreationDate="2014-04-28T02:49:28.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;By poppet do you mean the little springy thing inside of the keg post or do you mean the outer keg post itself? I'll try to answer both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ruined a few poppets by forcing them out with a screw driver and had to replace. The replacement poppets do not stick in as hard and normally fall right out. For cleaning I go with a long soak in PBW then StarSan but if you are really worried about it you can boil the whole keg post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tightening the keg posts it should be tight but not too tight that the o-rings are damaged. Turn the wrench with one finger until it can not go further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6700" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T02:49:28.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="558" CreationDate="2014-04-28T05:57:42.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&amp;amp;field-keywords=fermwrap&amp;amp;sprefix=fermwr,aps&amp;amp;rh=i:aps,k:fermwrap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fermwrap&lt;/a&gt; and check this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11845/is-there-a-material-difference-between-fermwraps-and-non-branded-fermwraps&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; I asked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T05:57:42.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-28T11:02:46.017" Score="2" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been searching around the net, asking in forums, even writing to Weyermann, trying to figure out what is the correct formula -- using a malt spec sheet -- to calculate the ppg value that I can use in recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2012/11/30/making-sense-of-efficiency-definitions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2012/11/30/making-sense-of-efficiency-definitions/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.. I should basically account with moisture content (MC%) and extract fine grind value (DBFG%). However, this gives lower ppg values than is widely referenced for given grains. It feels as if all the other sources do not account for MC%..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I have a spec sheet of Weyermann Pale Ale, where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moisture content = 4% max&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extract dry substance = 79% min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ppg = 0.46214 * DBFG * (1-MC) * 100&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.. I calculate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.46214 * 77% * (1 - 4.5%) * 100 = 35.049&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for the reference, there is an add-on feature in BeerSmith that allows to add custom malts and their Weyermann Pale Malt gives ppg as 38.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Does anybody know what is the really correct way to calculate the ppg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I've seen all the malt specs give MC% as &quot;max&quot; and DBFG% as &quot;min&quot;, but how can I know what is the range (maybe DBFG is in range of 79%..82%, which would make a big difference)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;JB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6736" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T11:56:43.360" Title="Inconsistencies in fermentables' ppg calculation" Tags="|extract|malt|calculations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12239" CreationDate="2014-04-28T11:53:00.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just worked on several kegs over the weekend. I normally only tighten them with a mild amount of strength.  Wish I had a torque wrench to tell you exactly.  I tighten by hand then maybe another 1/8 to 1/4 turn with the wrench.  I am certainly not putting any of my weight on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As an aside tip, when I get one that's really tight, I'll lay the keg on its side and sit on it like a horse. Squeeze it as tight as I can with my legs then use both hands to push down on the wrench.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T11:53:00.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12242" CreationDate="2014-04-28T11:56:43.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you can calculate this number.  They report a max extract using a standardized lab test obviously.  But then the rest is subject to too many variables for there actually be something to calculate.&#xA;Its system and brewer dependent on what the ppg will be.&#xA;I think your calcs are spot on as far as getting in the ball park.  Maybe assume a 5-8% error up and down?  But again it'll be dependent on your system, crush and process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T11:56:43.360" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12233" CreationDate="2014-04-28T19:27:56.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What guides/tutorials would best suit a complete beginner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally learned most of what I know from the internet. The information on Northern Brewer's site in particular was useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I learned quite a bit from my LHBS and from various internet forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much do I need to invest in equipment in order to make a decent yield (assuming that's a good thing)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As has been said, a few hundred dollars to start. Keep in mind homebrewing is a hobby. Taste/quality aside, you will never be able to brew beer as cheaply (per unit) as the big commercial breweries. They have massive economies of scale. So don't think about &quot;saving money&quot; by homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Leading on from the last one, would I start off brewing a small amount?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical homebrew batch size is 5 US gallons. You can brew in smaller batches (like one gallon) but since the labor is nearly the same you're usually better off doing larger batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How long does it take to brew a 'typical' home-brew style beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me 5-6 weeks from brew day to finished beer in a glass. Keep in mind that some styles need to be aged longer (sometimes much longer). High gravity barleywine for example benefits from aging at least a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've heard that it can be quite dangerous - what do I have to watch out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any significant dangers, other than possibly burning yourself on the stove or dropping a full carboy on your foot. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T19:27:56.573" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-04-28T19:27:56.573" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12233" CreationDate="2014-04-29T00:08:36.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started about 5 months ago with a Mr. Beer kit that I received as a gift. Took less than an hour to get it to the fermenter and probably under two hours of total work and it makes ~2.5 gallons. I got the sanitizing and basic process down before moving onto a bigger kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago I spent $170 on a 5 gallon setup and another $50 on a beer recipe kit. I've been reading How to Brew, which begins with a very helpful crash course and step-by-step guide before going into brewing in much greater detail. Most Google searches have lead me to homebrewtalk.com, which has been a great resource. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spent 4-5 hours getting the first five gallon batch to the fermenter (but could definitely be more efficient), another 30-45 minutes racking to the secondary a couple weeks later, then I assume another hour or so bottling... so, I'll probably end up spending less than 10 hours on it over 4-6 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be pretty simple -- dive in and get started. The books mentioned are good and the few home brew shops I've been to have been extremely helpful as well. You can find equipment kits as well as beer kits that come with pretty detailed instructions, which removes a lot of the guesswork on what to buy and what to do. Oh, and don't drink the last 1/2 inch of the bottle unless you really like yeast...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6741" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T00:08:36.133" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-04-29T00:08:36.133" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-29T18:33:22.567" Score="8" ViewCount="2167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed 3 all-grain batches now that have a high final gravity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Imperial IPA: Target OG - 1.079, Target FG - 1.011, Actual OG - 1.070,&#xA;  Actual FG - 1.020, Yeast - US-05. Common attenuation range seems to be 73% - 78%. Apparent Attenuation: 70%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;American Pale Wheat Ale: Target OG - 1.064, Target FG - 1.018, Actual OG - 1.054,&#xA;  Actual FG - 1.022, Yeast - White Labs WLP051. Advertised attenuation range: 75% - 80% Apparent Attenuation: 58%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Belgian IPA: Target OG - 1.060, Target FG - 1.014, Actual OG - 1.061,&#xA;  Actual FG - 1.027, Yeast - White Labs WLP500. Advertised attenuation range: 70% - 75% . Apparent Attenuation: 54%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brew with Chicago water which has a high ph (around 8), have done 60 minute mashes at about 152 degrees. Originally I was having trouble hitting my OG, but I figured it out and pretty much nailed it on my third brew. But now after fermenting the third beer for 6 weeks, the FG has been stagnant for the latter 2 weeks at 1.027. I just bottled it and am certainly looking forward to trying it, but the FG was way off (13 points, where the first was 9 and the second was only 4). Every time, I aerated my wort and used a yeast starter. Thus I really doubt yeast health is an issue but of course I could be wrong. The Belgian IPA stopped at week 3 at about 1.030, so I added about 6 oz of corn sugar to try and get it going again. The yeast attacked it once I dropped it in, but the FG didn't come down much further. The temperature for each of these was around 65 degrees +- 3. I brought my Belgian IPA into a warmer room so it could stay at a steady 68 after the third week (also when I added more sugar) and it still didn't come down. I have been doing the mash in my 15 gallon brew kettle. I suspect my wort isn't as fermentable as maybe it should be. But I don't know what I'm doing wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question(s) is this: Before moving forward with another brew, are there any recommendations anybody has to ensure I can get closer to my FG? Would a high ph affect FG in this way? Should I be using a cooler for the mash instead of my stainless kettle? Should I increase the mash time? I have heard the that optimal ph for mash is 5.2 and that the mash process will reach this ph eventually. Should I start the 60 minutes AFTER I reach a ph of 5.2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There was never a problem with attenuation or FG being off. If anything, my FG readings were below the target. I didn't realize there was a wort correction factor when using refractometers for FG readings.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6400" LastEditorUserId="6400" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T18:08:28.597" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T00:22:17.053" Title="High FG / Low Attenuation across 3 different beers" Tags="|all-grain|high-gravity|final-gravity|attenuation|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12249" CreationDate="2014-04-29T19:05:34.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suspect either a faulty thermometer that's reading deceptively low is to blame, or perhaps your mash water chemistry is really off and you aren't getting full conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the former, check your thermometer in crushed ice-water to ensure that its reading 32F, and in boiling water to ensure its 212F. Don't be shocked if you can't get it to read 212F in boiling water, being off by a few degrees is fine. Also, if you've got another thermometer lying around, use both simultaneously in the mash and see if there's a difference in the readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optimal mash pH is supposedly 5.2 (at mash temps), and I do believe that if you deviate from that drastically, you can impact your conversion, along with your efficiency. I'd suggest using all Reverse Osmosis water and following a basic water treatment plan, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#q=gordon+strong+water+treatment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like Gordon Strong's&lt;/a&gt;, which simplifies the science a considerable bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, make sure you're aerating enough. I've had a couple of high-FG brews lately and I think its a sign that I need to invest in an oxygen setup, but that might be overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T19:05:34.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2014-04-29T19:50:14.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a few of the online systems (Hopville, then BrewToad, etc.) until I got tired of the interfaces - I thought they were cumbersome and inefficient, and I had no idea how they were doing their calculations. So I created my own Excel document, with numerous tabs, that I use for several things - recipe development, stock on hand (hops in storage, etc.), all my costs (equipment &amp;amp; ingredients), tasting notes, etc., etc. ... I can also print out recipes, notes, and schedules, and if I don't like the way something is set-up, I can change it. It took me a while to find the necessary formulas for everything I wanted to do, and to develop my own spreadsheets for calculating IBUs and whatnot, but I learned a TON in the process, and now I'm free from depending on someone else's ideas for what the software/interface should be, not to mention the cost. I know not everyone is inclined to do something like this on his/her own, or has the knowledge (though I'm no Excel whiz, either) ... but if you ARE inclined - and I think it's safe to say that a lot of us homebrewers are, by nature, DIY-types - I strongly recommend learning what you can from other softwares, gathering and understanding the relevant formulas, and then developing your own system using some sort of spreadsheet program. Just start chipping away at it, and in a few months you'll have a fairly robust system that you can always tweak and improve. Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3160" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T19:50:14.627" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-04-29T19:50:14.627" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12253" CreationDate="2014-04-30T03:40:24.117" Score="4" ViewCount="3704" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously, most beers are carbonated with carbon dioxide, while some stouts/porters are &quot;carbonated&quot; with nitrogen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was curious if there has been any notable experimentation with other gasses to &quot;carbonate&quot; beer. If nitrogen can introduce a &quot;creamy&quot; texture to a beer, I would think that other gasses would also be able to introduce their own characteristics on beer. If any of these experiments have done, what characteristics do these other gases impart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure cost would be an issue for certain gasses that would prohibit its use in beer, but for purposes of this question, cost is irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, what is the correct term to use, as opposed to &quot;carbonate&quot;, for a question of this nature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T13:36:37.470" Title="Aside from CO2 and N2, are any other gases used to &quot;carbonate&quot; beer?" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12252" CreationDate="2014-04-30T08:44:15.613" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/gases-solubility-water-d_1148.html&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; a list of some common gasses and their solubility in water at standard pressure and various temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; dissolves ca 3g per gas kg of water at 5&amp;deg;C. Nitrogen is 0.027g for the same conditions, so in round figures about 1/100th the solubility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A carbonated beer is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supersaturation&quot;&gt;supersaturated&lt;/a&gt; gas in solution, having more gas dissolved than would be normally possible for the temperature and standard pressure. (When kegging or bottling, the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is applied at much higher pressure than standard atmospheric pressure.) This means the gas is easily brought out of solution, such as by shaking or with nucleation points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For other gasses to give any similar affect, they would have to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;soluble in reasonable quantities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non-toxic (rule exempt for halloween-beers!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non-irritant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non-flammable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and for aesthetics and pleasurable beer, it should be odorless or smell pleasant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking through the list, there are no other gasses that meet these criteria. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we remove the need for high solubility, then that opens up to Nitrogen and Helium. Helium could be used in place of Nitrogen to create a mixed beer gas. I couldn't say ahead of time how the beer would taste, only that you might get a high-pitched voice that you find more and more amusing with each glass! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T08:44:15.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12249" CreationDate="2014-04-30T17:48:52.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would focus on the yeast. How old were the yeast packs? Viability and cell count starts to drop off after just a few weeks. How big was the starter and what was the O.G.? Did you use a stir plate? There is a yeast calculator at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr. Malty&lt;/a&gt; that I have found to be helpful. A stir plate helps quite a bit too. Make sure the temperature of your starter is near to the temperature you are planning to ferment at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T17:48:52.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12222" CreationDate="2014-04-30T22:34:55.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;White labs Super High Gravity (WLP099) yeast claims to be alcohol tolerant up to 25% ABV. Normally most ale yeast shouldn't have a problem with 1.074 sg.  Perhaps a yeast starter or better temperature control is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for a stuck fermentation right now pitch some champagne yeast.  It won't mess with the flavor and is great to get the gravity down.  It is very commonly used for RIS and Barley wines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T22:34:55.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12290" CreationDate="2014-05-01T11:26:39.083" Score="1" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;What formulas and calculations exist for the home brewer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6747" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-05-02T15:30:01.183" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T19:24:36.187" Title="Brewing Formulas?" Tags="|recipe-formulation|calculations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-05-02T15:30:01.183" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12196" CreationDate="2014-05-01T15:19:11.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on liquid vs. dry yeast. As several other answers have said, with liquid yeast, yes you're better off using a starter if you don't want to buy 2-3 vials/smack packs. But dry yeast has a lot more viable cells than liquid. You could use a single dry yeast packet (e.g. US-05) for a 1.070 batch - it will get you near the 250 billion cells you need. It's definitely worth trying dry yeast to see if you like the results, because it's cheaper than liquid and easier than making a starter. This is especially true if you're using common strains like Chico/California. With good wort, sanitation and fermentation temp control, the results will be very similar and very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/safale-us-05-200b-cells-pkt-274340/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thread that includes people who have used dry yeast with 1.070&#xA;OG&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFA_US05.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Data sheet for US-05&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T15:19:11.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12219" CreationDate="2014-05-01T15:28:34.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick google on 'how to pour homebrew' returns a few results. This one is pretty good:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2Ieu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whatwouldjesusbrew.co.uk/pouring-instructions-for-homebrew-beer-labels/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.whatwouldjesusbrew.co.uk/pouring-instructions-for-homebrew-beer-labels/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other formatting options from what seems to be the same person: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/homebrew-pouring-instructions-337652/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/homebrew-pouring-instructions-337652/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByU44-AmLRqXblpaXzQ3Rk1xeHM/edit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByU44-AmLRqXblpaXzQ3Rk1xeHM/edit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course there are some instructions in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-9.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt;, though the graphic is not as nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T15:28:34.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12184" CreationDate="2014-05-01T20:38:23.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the recipe I use to make Kahlua.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 qt water&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;2 1/2 cups Sugar&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3 tablespoons of instant coffee&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1 tablespoon of Vanilla&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;2 1/2 cups Vodka&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring water, sugar, and coffee to a boil in a saucepan.  Simmer VERY slowly for 3 hours.  Mixture will be very dark and syrupy.  Cool.  Add vanilla and vodka.  Makes 7 cups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using instant coffee, make a 1 quart batch of coffee to whatever strength you prefer, then use that as a replacement for the 1 qt of water and 3 tablespoons of instant coffee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you probably noticed there is no brewing involved, except for making some coffee.  The alcohol comes from the vodka and sweet taste comes from the 2 and half cups of sugar.  Effectively, Kahlua is just coffee flavored syrup with some vodka (or other source of alcohol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be possible to follow a process similar to making Port, where you ferment a must (brewed coffee and some source of sugar), allow the fermentation to proceed, stop the fermentation process at some point, then add some source of sugar back to provide some additional sweetness.  However, the end result would probably be nothing like Kahlua, though it might make an interesting experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3624" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T20:38:23.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-02T02:12:13.940" Score="4" ViewCount="1503" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the static relief valve on a pin lock keg has vented pressure (i.e at 130 psi) does the valve cease to work? Does it need to be replaced with a new static relief valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was watching a video on youtube regarding corny kegs the other day. In the video a statement was made regarding the static relief valves on pin lock corny kegs. Specifically, the statement made was that once a static relief valve has been activated (i.e at 130 psi) it must be replaced. The video did not state what happens if you do not replace it. Perhaps the keg simply does not hold pressure, or worse it no longer automatically vents pressure. Unfortunately I do not remember the link. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Found the link. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeHF87wr4hE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeHF87wr4hE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastEditorUserId="3592" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T00:33:03.710" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T16:07:49.327" Title="Do pin lock static relief valves need to be replaced after activation?" Tags="|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-03T11:26:49.577" Score="4" ViewCount="2980" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone seems so interested in getting high alcohol into their beers.  I like to drink and not get wasted, so how about good beer with low alcohol?  Last summer's trip to England was an eye opener.  First night, seven pints. Next morning felt great.  Found out ABV is around 3% to 3.5% in most English pale ales.  But they were creamy, full bodied and very satisfying.  I would like to brew that kind of beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full bodied and low alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6750" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T19:44:53.663" Title="High Gravity/Low Alcohol - How do I get there?" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5040" CreationDate="2014-05-03T13:32:48.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try buying a can of Barkeepers Friend. It's sold in most grocery stores, as well as Home Depot &amp;amp; Lowe's.  It's a gritty, Comet style cleanser that doesn't scratch surfaces.  Once I had soot build up from 3 different batches &amp;amp; Barkeepers friend took it off with one vigorous wash!  I swear by it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6758" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T13:32:48.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-03T13:46:04.067" Score="1" ViewCount="3655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a ginger beer neophyte, but I love the stuff and can't find it in my area.  I decided to brew and have two, three gallon glass carboys working(?)  In one I used an extract, champagne yeast, sugar and a few bonus ingredients and in the other I made a wort out of ginger root, lemons, limes, gobs of sugar and champagne yeast.  Both sit in my kitchen at about 70* F.  Both started working immediately with the wort batch taking off like a scalded dog.  It bubbled hot and heavy for a solid week then slowed to a stop in just a few hours.  Now it is just sitting there where the extract batch is still bubbling merrily, albeit much more tamely, along.  Is it safe to bottle the non-bubbling batch? and if so, how do I get it to produce fizz in the bottles?  Add more sugar to each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6759" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T11:28:41.753" Title="Can I Bottle Ginger Beer after the bubbles have stopped?" Tags="|beer|bottling|stuck-fermentation|ginger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12261" CreationDate="2014-05-03T14:00:50.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've manually popped relief valves countless times with no trouble. As for running the pressure up to the 130 psi range, I don't know why anyone would. I'm not even sure how you would, unless the beer is still fermenting vigorously. My CO2 regulator is only good for 100 psi, and some I've seen only go up to 50. I doubt if I've ever gone beyond 40, even when I was in a hurry to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, I had one old Firestone keg with a stemmed, cone-shaped (i.e. irreplaceable) relief valve seal. When that developed a nick, I didn't hesitate to put in a dab of silicone or epoxy--I forget which, it was a long time ago--and continue using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T14:00:50.603" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12264" CreationDate="2014-05-03T14:22:17.240" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, happy National Homebrew Day celebration day. I hope you have a LHBS or club that is participating in the Big Brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gravity is a measure of sugar in your wort, and the more &lt;em&gt;fermentable&lt;/em&gt; sugars you give your yeast to munch on, the more that yeast will pee alcohol. To get gravity without booze, you provide yeast more of the stuff they can’t consume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the first recipe I created without looking to clones or other recipes, I learned that the greater the malt, the fewer the fermentables. For instance, pilsner malt offers more potential fermentable sugar than a dark crystal malt. A brew heavy on crystal malts should have little alcohol and plenty of flavor, mouthfeel / body, and color. That’s something Beer Smith assumed I would understand… but itself does not understand when calculating ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all-grain brewing, controlling the time and temp of your mash helps determine what sugars are available. “How To Brew” and “Designing Great Beers” have great intro info about that process. Other types of sugars, like lactose used in “milk stouts,” add body without booze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, adjuncts (maybe not the right word in this case) like oats or wheat will also add to the body, creaminess, and head retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to figure it out is to research the recipes and process of the beers you enjoy. That’s done on some breweries’ websites, by calling the breweries, or by looking for clone recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T14:22:17.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12272" CreationDate="2014-05-03T15:39:39.323" Score="2" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the hops I planted last year came back as expected and they look great.  Usual guidance is to cut back first bines and let the second batch grow. Both plants have 4-6 healthy bines and I'm trying to figure out what to do given it's now the first of May (in Philly area). &#xA;Options: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut them all back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut back half (maybe &quot;weaker&quot; bines)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate recommendations or experiences.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="3453" LastEditDate="2014-05-03T17:52:49.347" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T16:34:05.917" Title="Trimming back hops" Tags="|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-03T18:03:34.637" Score="0" ViewCount="1616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to make a 1.5 litre batch of sugar wine, but I don't really know how much sugar I should add. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6761" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T22:26:16.533" Title="I'm trying to make a 1.5 litre batch of sugar wine (kilju), how much sugar do I add to it?" Tags="|sugar|small-batch|indoors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-03T21:27:27.317" Score="1" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm new to the home-brewing scene, and I was a bit too excited to get started with my apple cider. I misread the instructions, and instead of using half a teaspoon for a 2lt bottle of juice.. I used an entire packet :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it taste like satan's piss? Is there any salvation to it? I'm using Lalvin EC-1118 Champagne yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still have about 1 gallon of juice, and an extra cap/airlock. Should I mix it / dilute it with the rest of the juice.. or just chuck it and make a new round? Or just let it be and it will turn out ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6762" LastEditorUserId="6762" LastEditDate="2014-05-03T21:36:38.517" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T02:43:46.140" Title="Yeast overdose?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|cider|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12269" CreationDate="2014-05-03T21:28:42.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been keeping 3 bines per plant with mine. I wait until there are 3 bines that are about one foot long each (or more) and assume these are the strongest. Then I just cut all the rest and continue to prune any new ones that pop up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T21:28:42.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12271" CreationDate="2014-05-04T02:43:46.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it should be fine.  Relax, don't worry, have ... some cider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T02:43:46.140" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12264" CreationDate="2014-05-04T04:39:58.257" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good article from Brew Your Own. &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/low-alcohol-brewing/item/1453-tastes-great-less-alcohol&quot;&gt;&quot;Tastes Great! Less Alcohol!&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is the style guidelines which includes commercial examples. 2008 BJCP Style Guidelines &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style08.php&quot;&gt;Category 8 — English Pale Ale&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6763" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-05-04T06:36:59.533" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T06:36:59.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12266" CreationDate="2014-05-04T14:20:00.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In malt beer production, we (can) bottle after the primary fermentation, often making a simple syrup of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;priming sugar&lt;/a&gt; to aid CO2 production. You can also purchase “carb tabs” (sugar pills) which have really simplified my life but receive mixed reviews online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added sugar will dry out the taste slightly and you probably still have enough sugar and yeast in solution that you’ll &lt;em&gt;eventually&lt;/em&gt; have carbonation… eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d be curious to learn about the sugars used and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixA.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the original and final gravities&lt;/a&gt; of each solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T14:20:00.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12277" CreationDate="2014-05-05T04:29:27.937" Score="4" ViewCount="1829" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CyOhT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my 30th or so batch and I've never seen this before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way I can describe it is that it looks like summer in the Arctic and pieces of ice are breaking off the ice caps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea as to what this is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/extra-special-bitter-extract-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Extra Special Bitter from Northern Brewer&lt;/a&gt; (extract). I used the Wyeast 1968 strain and made a yeast starter. I aerated with an aeration stone. I think I had a temperature problem with this one but can't remember. I either let the temperature spike on the 7th day of fermentation or I let the temperature fall too low on the 3rd day of fermentation (I had a Bitter and an ESB going nearly simultaneously and mixed them up...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T08:12:46.290" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T08:12:46.290" Title="Is this wort infected? (*Picture)" Tags="|wort|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12276" CreationDate="2014-05-05T13:32:36.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, that's definitely an infection.  It's likely that either the carboy had some unwanted critters lying in wait, or something got into the wort (e.g. fruit flies, missing the bung).  Did you sanitize your carboy before pouring wort into it?  Sometimes freak accidents do happen, but the temperature would have nothing to do with the possibility of an infection.  That said, it can control the rate at which off flavors are produced and the infection spreads.  The warmer it is, the quicker the flavors will generate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try sampling it.  It won't hurt you.  If it tastes alright, you have two options.  One is to bottle/keg it and drink it quickly (the colder temperatures will help limit the spread), or if it's noticeably sour by now, let it sit for some time (i.e. months) and come back to it to see if the flavor morphs into something you like.  If it tastes like garbage though, it probably won't get any better with time and you may want to consider moving on.  Luckily bitters, while hoppy, aren't the hoppiest of styles out there, and it may become a pleasant accidental sour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T14:04:08.807" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T14:04:08.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12285" CreationDate="2014-05-05T15:04:24.343" Score="6" ViewCount="6788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen the term &quot;dregs&quot; used in different context like sour beer brewing or &quot;bottle dregs&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The straight definition for it: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;the remnants of a liquid left in a container, together with any sediment or grounds.&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this term used in beer brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6718" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T19:30:47.700" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T19:30:47.700" Title="What does &quot;dregs&quot; mean?" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12280" CreationDate="2014-05-05T15:17:22.567" Score="2" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;My two last batches got a sour/white wine taste to them (prior to bottling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one was a Hefeweizen fermented in my bucket. The taste was present from day 4 up to bottling a month later. In my memory, there was no film on the beer in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second one was a Brett Saison (WL Farmhouse Blend) fermented in my glass carboy. I tasted it yesterday after 3 weeks of fermentation and it had the same taste. There are little white round things on top the beer in the fermenter, but it's maybe just the Brett in the American Farmhouse Blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The taste is predominant and hides every other tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I didn't use the same fermenter, that's not the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the culprit must be some equipment/process after flame-out (and/or starter equipment). Also, since I got the taste 4 days into the fermentation of my Hefeweizen, it's not any racking equipment's fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much leaves :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starter container (glass jar + aluminium foil for covering)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wooden spoon used to circulate starter when cooling with ice bath&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerial contamination during cooling starter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wooden spoon used to circulate wort when cooling with wort chiller&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerial contamination during cooling wort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strainer used to filter wort when pouring in fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray bottle used for spraying sanitizer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, I sanitize every piece of equipment (with a no rinse sanitizer, OXY-SAN I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any clue what's the most likely suspect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3972" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T17:01:09.393" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T17:01:09.393" Title="Consecutive (lacto?) contamination with different fermenters" Tags="|sanitation|contamination|sour|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12279" CreationDate="2014-05-05T15:31:01.917" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd put my money on the wooden spoon.  Legend is that in days of yore, brewers used to stir the wort with a &quot;magic stick&quot;.  If they didn't, it wouldn't ferment.  The reason was the yeast imbedded in the wood.  I've always been told not to use wooden spoons post boil.  That makes sense to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T15:31:01.917" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12278" CreationDate="2014-05-05T15:32:05.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means exactly the same thing in brewing...liquid remnants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expanding a little,&lt;/strong&gt; typically the yeast sediment you see at the bottom of the bottle of your home brew is referred to as &quot;the dregs&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a home brewer becomes more experienced and familiar with yeast, they may actually use a technique called &quot;yeast harvesting,&quot; where they actually harvest &quot;the dregs&quot; from the bottom of a bottle to re-create a beer they want to brew again, or even clone one of their favorite microbrews (some commercial microbrews still have 'the dregs' at the bottom of the bottle, and can be harvested).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resource&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/com-yeast-harvest.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Yeast Harvesting / Re-Pitching&quot;&lt;/a&gt; via &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wyeastlab.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T19:32:03.030" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T19:32:03.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12283" CreationDate="2014-05-05T18:03:48.043" Score="1" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;Within the next few days I'll be 'brewing' 100 litres of ale from slightly concentrated sterile wort. I've used these kits before with decent results, but this time I want to try a liquid yeast instead of the packaged dry (Cooper's) yeast that's included in the box. So I bought a Wyeast 'Direct Pitch' smack pack (British Ale II) that allegedly contains 100 billion cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not enough for this much wort, obviously, so I propose to boil up half a pound of dry malt extract to make a 1/2 gallon starter. When that's rolling nicely I'll use it to pitch this next mega-batch. Good idea? Bad idea? Any reason that wouldn't be satisfactory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much of my homebrewing knowledge, if you can call it that, dates back to Neolithic (i.e. pre-Internet) times, so until I can lay my hands on some good recent books on the subject, I thought I'd ask the question here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T18:10:12.897" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T12:02:14.700" Title="Proposed yeast starter" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12282" CreationDate="2014-05-05T18:20:48.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1/2 gallon (~1900mL) will probably net you about 350bn cells (if you have a stir plate, yeast isn't too old, &amp;amp;c.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 100L of ~1.040 wort, you want closer to 750bn cells (depending on gravity, assuming an ale).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pitch rate and starter calculator&lt;/a&gt; to get a better sense of your requirements for yeast and the the sizes/steps of starter needed to get to those pitch rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T18:20:48.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12278" CreationDate="2014-05-05T18:25:22.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;it is the grains, or yeast etc that used to be floaters that settle. so, Like Denny said, it is the liquid left at the bottom of your fermenter, or bottles, or even kettle, with the sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T18:25:22.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12278" CreationDate="2014-05-05T18:36:52.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the context of bottled beer, the &quot;dregs&quot; refer to the cake of (mostly) yeast and coagulated proteins that form in the bottom of bottle conditioned beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;reason&lt;/strong&gt; why anyone would care about this gunk (which you usually don't drink), is that since its mostly yeast, and mostly still viable/alive, you can collect these dregs and add sugars to grow them up into a viable amount for pitching into a batch of your own beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With most 'normal' bottle conditioned commercial beers (Belgians, some Englishes, etc), caring about the dregs is less interesting than with the sours. Basically, the yeast at the bottom of a Chimay bottle is virtually the same as a strain of White Labs (WLP 530, i think?) that I can buy for $6 down at the homebrew shop. However, if you don't have a local shop, or if you're just a yeast nerd who likes the culturing process, you can use those dregs to build up sufficient yeast for pitching into your own beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Sour Beers, the blend of yeasts, Brett, Pedio, Lacto, etc that's found in their bottle dregs is something much more special. It used to be quite difficult to get ready-to-pitch Sour Beer yeast cultures, as there wasn't much demand for them at the homebrew level going back maybe 10 years ago. Now, with sours being in vogue, you CAN get some strains, but that's besides the point. Back then, your best choice for cloning something like Orval, for example, would be to pour the dregs of a bottle of Orval into a starter, or straight into a fermented beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra info: Not all dregs are created equal. Some breweries pasteurize their beer, then add a different strain to bottle condition. If you are going to use dregs, google the brewery first to ensure that they bottle their beer with their primary strain. For example, some Hefeweizens are bottled with lager yeast, so if you cultured those dregs looking for Hefe yeast, you would not get the results you're after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T20:36:42.180" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T20:36:42.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12282" CreationDate="2014-05-06T12:02:14.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously you know now that you are under-pitching with the 1/2 gallon starter idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 100L you'd need several stir plates going really.  IMO, the best bet would be to brew a standard 20L batch, then use that entire cake as the pitch for the 100L batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T12:02:14.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12288" CreationDate="2014-05-06T12:22:43.777" Score="1" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing my 1st kit which my gf got from a local hardware store (ironically there's a home brew store not 5 mins away &lt;em&gt;sigh&lt;/em&gt;) but wasn't a cheap one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wilko.com/cider+beer-brewing/wilko-golden-ale-kit-40pt/invt/0318381&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wilko.com/cider+beer-brewing/wilko-golden-ale-kit-40pt/invt/0318381&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just need a bit of advise as there is a mountain of information out there and it's making my head spin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;WHAT IVE DONE&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's golden ale, 23 liters (5 gallons) came with two large tins with syrupy like mix in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iv'e added the yeast and left it at 20 degrees (68f) and it stopped fermenting after only 3 days, which i thought was odd. tested it with hydrometer and got a reading far short of what was required (22ish not close to 10)  the So i added a packet of amylase enzyme to get it going again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 week later the fermenting has stopped, tested and carefully transferred to secondary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After only 24 hrs i pulled some into a glass and it was carbonated with as expected a bitter yeasty taste as it still needs to mature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;WHAT THE QUESTIONS ARE&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) why after such a short time is the beer carbonated with no fermenting when it was flat before transfer to secondary? There are no visual signs of fermenting going on. Might my keg explode? it's good for 15 psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) should i leave it 2 weeks (as suggested by some members and mico brewers) in the keg and then add my 5 ounces of primer and bottle or should i prime and bottle now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that is clear, thank you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6767" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T12:37:38.180" Title="Bottling from secondary (keg). Wait two weeks and prime or now?" Tags="|fermentation|bottle-conditioning|secondary-fermentation|first-time-brewer|help|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12287" CreationDate="2014-05-06T12:37:38.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bet is that after only 3 days, it wasn't really finished. In combination with the addition of amylase enzyme, you're simply seeing more fermentation activity. Fermentation does not always have an obvious visual component; gravity readings over time are the only solid way of knowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My corny kegs are marked as &quot;good&quot; up to 150psi. 15 psi is extremely low for a keg intended for beer; I'll regularly see keg pressures in the 20-30psi range during force carbonation. Do you have any info/link to the keg you have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is still fermentation going on, then you should wait for it to complete. 2 weeks is totally a reasonable amount of time. You should vent the pressure in the keg during this process. You should treat the keg more as fermentation vessel, not as a sealed keg, right now. This will prevent more than the usual amount of fermentation-produced CO₂ from being dissolved in the beer, throwing off the priming sugar addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, prime and bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, some questions come up: if you have a keg why are you bottling?  And if you have a CO₂ tank for the keg, why are you using priming sugar? (Note: I've done both of these things, so I know there are reasons why you would do so, but I'm curious to hear your reasons.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T12:37:38.180" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12269" CreationDate="2014-05-06T16:21:38.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pruning bines is most critical during the first year when the rhizomes are getting established. The main problem with too many bines after that is that they get hopelessly entangled and it gets harder to pick the flowers. I think they also reach a point where the plant is blocking the sun from itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The optimal number of bines is dependant on the amount of space around the plant. If you have room, you can spread out the strings at the top end, arranging them like a fan, and support more bines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T16:21:38.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12256" CreationDate="2014-05-06T19:24:36.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As jsled mentioned, you can calculate just about everything to do with brewing beer from the specific heat of your mash tun to the amount of gas it takes to bring your brew kettle to boil given a specific gravity of its contents. It all depends on how much you want to know and how you brew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a site with several calculators that might help you see the possibilities of refinement and fine control that major breweries strive to achieve. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/stats/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/stats/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I use a piece of software called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerSmith&lt;/a&gt; that gives me a lot of information that I find useful, particularly mash volumes and mash in temps, which is important in all-grain brewing in a non-HERMS mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T19:24:36.187" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-05-06T19:24:36.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12301" CreationDate="2014-05-06T19:44:05.263" Score="3" ViewCount="3306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really want to make an extract SN Torpedo Clone. During my hunt for recipes, this one in my opinion sounds great and I would really like to try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe OP &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&amp;amp;t=13902&amp;amp;start=32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;O.G. 1.076 (actual)&#xA;F.G. 1.016 (est)&#xA;ABV 7.0 (est)&#xA;IBU 82.7 (Tinseth, est)&#xA;SRM 8.8 (est)&#xA;&#xA;23 lbs Great Western 2-row&#xA;2 lbs Cara-Pils Dextrine&#xA;1.5 lbs Crystal 60&#xA;&#xA;70g Magnum 10.5% 90 minutes&#xA;28.3g Crystal 3.3% 90 minutes&#xA;&#xA;50g Magnum 30 minutes&#xA;&#xA;50g Magnum 10 minutes&#xA;100g Crystal 10 minutes&#xA;&#xA;85g Crystal DRY 7 days&#xA;57g Magnum DRY 7 days&#xA;28g Citra DRY 7 days&#xA;&#xA;Mash at 150 F&#xA;Mash Efficiency 80%&#xA;&#xA;Yeast: White Labs WLP-001&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know to convert all-grain recipes to extract, you multiply the grain amount by .75 for LME and .6 for DME. Doing that for this recipe only gives about 3.9 kg for LME (in place of the 2-row).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading another post closer to the start of that thread, the creator of the recipe says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm gonna guess you could sub light DME for the pale 2-row and steep&#xA;  the carapils and Crystal 40. Try running it through Promash and tweak&#xA;  the DME until you hit 1.074. I'm kind of a noob, so I'd wait for&#xA;  another opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Another thing, I might need to tweak the hops, so let me get a judges&#xA;  opinion of it before you make it. I'll post that info soon as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Charlie&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know if simply throwing the recipe into a calculator (I've been using brewers friend recently) and tweaking the DME until it hits 1.076 is a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this sound for a 22ltr batch: (All estimates are brewersfriend calulations)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;O.G. 1.075 (est)&#xA;F.G. 1.021 (est)&#xA;ABV 7.12   (est)&#xA;IBU 74.39 (Tinseth, est)&#xA;SRM 11.01 (est)&#xA;&#xA;BU/GU ratio: 0.99&#xA;&#xA;4.5  KG Light DME          - 79.8%&#xA;0.65 KG Cara-Pils Dextrine - 11.5%&#xA;0.49 KG Crystal 60         -  8.7% &#xA;&#xA;35g Magnum               10.7% 90 minutes&#xA;14g Hallertau Mittelfruh 3.0%  90 minutes&#xA;&#xA;25g Magnum                     30 minutes&#xA;&#xA;25g Magnum                     10 minutes&#xA;50g Hallertau Mittelfruh       10 minutes &#xA;&#xA;42.5g Hallertau Mittelfruh DRY 7 days&#xA;28g   Magnum               DRY 7 days&#xA;14g   Citra                DRY 7 days&#xA;&#xA;Yeast: 1.5 x 11.5g US-05&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastEditorUserId="6522" LastEditDate="2014-05-08T14:06:17.683" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T19:37:40.790" Title="Substituting 2-row with DME - Extract Torpedo Clone recipe" Tags="|all-grain|extract-brewing|clone-recipe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12297" CreationDate="2014-05-06T21:48:28.243" Score="1" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that I've discovered (thanks to jsled and Google) what a stir plate is and why I need to make one, I'm curious to know how far they can be pushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a lazy brewer with a fairly well-equipped workshop, limited bench space, a hearty appetite for beer and a recurring case of gout, I prefer to make big batches of full-bodied but low-alcohol ales. Lack of time and near-absence of temperature control rule out lagers and lagering, at least for now, so I'm mostly interested in producing the best beer I can with the least time &amp;amp; effort necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at various homemade stir plates, I see they all use flat-bottomed lab beakers, they're all too small for the 100-litre batches I like to make, and they generally use 12V muffin fans to run the pellet around. I'm wondering if anyone has built a hairy-chested (say, gallon-jug-size) stir plate using a stronger DC motor, stronger rare-earth magnets, and a big honking swirl pellet that will do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power supply isn't an issue, since I have an adjustable Mastech digital monster that weighs about 20 pounds, but I don't know about the other components. Supposing I could get a suitable DC fan or other motor, and an appropriately sized stirring pellet (or perhaps two?) I can easily picture them losing contact with the magnets or wearing grooves in my proposed gallon-jug starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry to be so long-winded, but I want to explain what I have in mind, and why. Any suggestions or comments will be much appreciated, as always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T16:01:50.077" Title="Jumbo stir plates?" Tags="|stir-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-07T03:46:22.723" Score="2" ViewCount="5022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing a hard apple cider and would like to know how can I increase the ABV % in a cider ? or is it the same process in a beer ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T23:22:08.450" Title="Higher alcohol content in a Hard apple cider" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12293" CreationDate="2014-05-07T07:22:17.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alcohol is a byproduct of yeasts metabolism, if you increase the concentration of fermentable material you will (to a certain point) increase the ABV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best results are in general achieved by increasing the concentration of natural fermentables, maybe by decreasing the amount of water. If this is hard to do then pouring some extra sugar into the mix will do the trick albeit on the possible expense of flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6766" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T07:22:17.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-07T15:28:41.423" Score="0" ViewCount="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my first all grain batch this past weekend and everything went pretty smooth except my OG was 1.050 instead of the 1.056 I was expecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this be a sparging issue? I had calculated a 75% efficiency. I did fly sparging with a home made sparge arm that worked pretty well. I had to adjust the flow a couple times to maintain a flow that ended in 45 minutes with close to 7 gallons collected for a 5 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I boiled off between 1.25 and 1.5 gallons of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this isn't a sparge efficiency issue what else could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3871" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T15:28:41.423" Title="Missed Expected OG, Sparging Issue?" Tags="|all-grain|original-gravity|efficiency|sparge|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-05-07T15:51:13.027" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12293" CreationDate="2014-05-07T16:00:10.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to increase the ABV of cider is to add more fermentables to it.  Table sugar is most commonly used, although you can also use things like honey, agave syrup, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T16:00:10.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12292" CreationDate="2014-05-07T16:01:05.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you need something so heavy duty for the batch sizes you're talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://stirstarters.com/instructions.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The &quot;standard&quot; homebrew stir plates&lt;/a&gt; are generally built with hard-drive magnets and computer case fans. These can readily move wort in flasks from 2-4L, and probably up to 6L, as well, with just a bigger stir-bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at yeast-starter calculators, for 100L of low-gravity ale wort, you'll want about 750bn cells. You can get this with a single 5L stir-plate starter (for which I'd recommend at least a 6L flask), or by doing two 2.5L steps (for which I'd recommend a 4L flask). Using anti-foam agents in smaller flasks can work very well, though definitely not 2.5L in a 2L flask ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option, of course, is to use multiple packets of dried yeast, which have a higher cell count (when properly rehydrated) and are much cheaper than liquid yeast, even after doubling  and tripling up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T16:01:05.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12261" CreationDate="2014-05-07T16:07:49.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I contacted CornyKeg.com, the people who created the video. They said that the video they created was erroneous and that static relief valves do not need to be replaced if they have been used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am not sure why that video is even on the internet anymore. Those static relief valves will reset and usable again. As long as they do not leak there is no need to replace them. Sometimes the get loose and you will need to tighten them with a wide blade flat screw driver in the square recess on the back. Sorry for the confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T16:07:49.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-07T18:10:14.260" Score="1" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those who have tried it, Im thinking like the smokey flavor in Stone's 'Matts Burning Rosids'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6591" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T18:10:14.260" Title="How does one get a smoked flavor in their beer?" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-05-07T18:19:25.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12291" CreationDate="2014-05-07T20:17:00.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to preserve the ratio of 2-row to Crystal 60L.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is one simplified way to do the math.  2-Row has an average, theoretical extract yield of 1.036 specific gravity -- if you take the last two digits (36), you can express this as 36 gravity points per pound of grain per gallon of wort (PPG) at 100% efficiency.  The recipe assumes a mash efficiency of 80%, so you would only yield 36 PPG * 80% = 28.8 PPG.  DME has a PPG of 44.  How much DME do you need to replace one pound of 2-Row in this recipe? --&gt; 28.8/44 = 0.65 lbs.  So you can replace 23 lbs. of 2-Row with 15 lbs of DME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, theoretical yield and actual extract yield from 2-Row are two different things.  While maltsters are very diligent and good about consistency in product despite inconsistency in raw barley, each batch of malt is different, but I doubt your LHBS has the malt spec sheet for the grain they have in bins out front.  Also, whether the recipe designer ever actually achieved 80% mash efficiency is doubtful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DME is different in that it is a technically &quot;perfected&quot; product that gets you 44 PPG every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, I think that the most important thing on brew day is to hit the OG while maintaining the ratio of fermentables. So I would start with the above numbers and then play with ALL of the fermentables to maintain the ratio and get to 1.076 OG. I think Brewer's Friend allows you to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="2560" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T19:37:40.790" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T19:37:40.790" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12293" CreationDate="2014-05-07T23:22:08.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another common method would be freeze concentration, where you partially freeze the finished cider, and remove chunks of ice, concentrating alcohol and unfermentables in the remaining liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6774" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T23:22:08.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12264" CreationDate="2014-05-07T23:29:18.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably want to try brewing some &quot;ordinary bitter&quot; or &quot;best/special bitter&quot; recipes, or perhaps a &quot;mild ale.&quot; There's lots of great recipes for these, and they're typically in the 3.5-4.5% ABV range. Here's one that's very tasty, and matches the style you're talking about: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f64/boddingtons-bitter-21131&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f64/boddingtons-bitter-21131&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6774" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T23:29:18.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3526" CreationDate="2014-05-08T17:52:52.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seconded on both as suggested above!  I've tried various combinations/orders when mashing in with my 5 gal igloo cooler MLT (single-infusion rest).  I've found that the best way to achieve consistency (re: hydration of grain and temperature of mash) is to use a method i lovingly refer to as '&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;crossing the streams&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;'.  When a roommate is around to assist me we pour the grains and strike water at the same time crossing the streams to help get a good mix.  Now that I have a valve on my HLT, if I am by myself, I just open the valve full blast grab my grain and start pouring.  The time it takes me to start pouring grain after opening the valve allows a little bit of time to establish some foundation water in the tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6776" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T17:52:52.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12309" CreationDate="2014-05-08T17:53:09.343" Score="2" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering the best trub cone formation in the wort (settling in the center), what aspects shall we have in mind when designing a serpentine (coil) to chill wort (immersed in it) with whirlpool (re-circulation) like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mr Malty Chiller&lt;/a&gt; ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the solid residues need some space to pass between chiller tubes and space between the bottom of the kettle and the coil to decant in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it true ? How many space is needed ? And what about to elevate the coil with 3 rods instead leaving a ring of the own coil tube in the bottom ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming all samples below with the same tube area, what would be the best design ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Dense with a ring in the bottom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/py96x.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dense in the bottom&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Dense with a ring in the bottom but elevated in the middle &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8sc1v.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dense elevated&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Sparse with a ring in the bottom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S7znA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sparse in the bottom&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Sparse with a ring in the bottom but elevated in the middle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ThtH3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sparse elevated&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Dense elevated by rods&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cvjdl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dense elevated by rods&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) Sparse elevated by rods&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0f7Jr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sparse elevated by rods&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T17:56:36.580" Title="Immersion/Whirpool chiller design for good trub cone formation" Tags="|chilling|wort-chiller|projects|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12305" CreationDate="2014-05-08T18:02:34.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ya know what?  In reality, &lt;strong&gt;it just doesn't matter&lt;/strong&gt;.  I drop the same old funky immersion chiller I've been using for years into the wort.  Then I take the output hose from my pump and clamp it to the side of the kettle, pointing kinda sideways below wort level.  It's equally as effective as a friend's setup that's similar to a couple of your designs.  Don't overthink it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T18:02:34.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-08T22:21:06.887" Score="0" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;i've done 4 batches one month ago, one per day, day after day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My batches now are of 60L, and I use 2 30L fermenters for each batch. 2 of the 4 batches are the &quot;same recipe&quot;, so I have 4 fermenters in &quot;same conditions&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, bubbles stopped a long ago, there's no activity on any fermenter, beside 1 of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be happening to it to restart to bubble? It can be a sign of too much time in primary? Never take so much time in primary, always bottled after 1 or 2 weeks, but reading here make me feel encouraged to spend more time. I live in Brasil, my room temp is sigthly higher than the optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T13:13:27.890" Title="Bubbles restart after 1 month?" Tags="|airlock|primary|bubble|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12307" CreationDate="2014-05-08T22:43:52.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It got warm, so the pressure inside the fermentor increased, forcing gas out through the airlock, which you notice as bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T22:43:52.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12305" CreationDate="2014-05-09T10:34:42.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Denny that it should not matter much in reality, but in theory at least I'd say that the sparse coil may be the favored option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effectiveness of your chiller depends (amongst other factors) on the steepness of the heat gradient or, if you will, the temperature contrast between the chiller and the immediately surrounding liquid. The larger the temperature contrast the more energy can be transferred from the wort to the cooling water per time unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wort will be chilled radially from your tubes and if the coils are closely packed they will together cool the immediately surrounding wort rather quickly, thus decreasing the heat exchange. A sparser coil formation will reduce this cooperative chilling of only the wort close to the tubing and increase the heat dispersion throughout the entire liquid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This effect is the entire reason that using the whirlpool feature (or just plain old stirring) is so beneficial and the stirring of the liquid will have a much greater effect than the spacing of the coils. Even so, when I built my own i made sure to space the coils as much as possible while still making sure that the entire chiller would be immersed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion: I vote for option 3 for its combination of simplicity and theoretical function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;&#xA;Edit:&#xA;The coil itself does not center any trub, its the movement of the liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The velocity of the moving liquid is much greater at the edges of your pot then in the middle and so the heavy particles gathers in the middle as it would require more energy to accelerate them than the surrounding water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cooler would thus be more of an obstacle to trub formation than a help as one might first believe and so yet again the sparse formation would be the better option. However with this in mind your legs in figure 6 might not be a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once again however: I don't think that all this thinking will much improve the final product or greatly simplify any part of the process, fun as it is.&#xA;&lt;/i&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6766" LastEditorUserId="6766" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T17:56:36.580" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T17:56:36.580" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12307" CreationDate="2014-05-09T13:13:27.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always open the lid and carefully take a quick look to see how it's going. Usually the sings of infection are bad smell and white mold spots on the surface. If you don't notice any of that you're good, you can also take a gravity test to see how the yeast is doing and compare it to the other batches...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T13:13:27.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12305" CreationDate="2014-05-09T16:12:03.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, I never get a trub cone with the chiller in place.  And I don't think you will.  Too much turbulence as the wort whirlpools for a nice clean pot centered cone of trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the turbulence leads to great chilling via a great turnover of wort volume and surface area contact with the chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only get a nice cone in a standard pot with no chiller in plate, and NO DIP TUBE (also causes turbulence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jamil started this method to maximize chilling, not trub cone formation.  I think this has become an over interpreted tool in the homebrewing community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to whirlpool for the cone post chill.  Pro pots whirlpool in smooth sides vessels with recessed drain ports, then draw from the side.  Its simply physics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T16:12:03.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-09T18:16:07.973" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some general advice/recommended reading, etc.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made a few wine kits and they've all come out OK.  I feel I have the general process down and I'm ready to start with perhaps fresh grape juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always thought that one advantage I have over commercial wineries is that I can add anything I want to my wine.  If it's not sweet enough, I can add sugar.  Not enough acid, I can add more, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my problem is, I don't know how to tell from raw juice what might be needed.  I know I can measure the sugar, etc., but since juice tastes so much different, I don't see how to tell what it will be like in six months.   I don't even know if I can recall how a batch of juice tasted six months ago to say, &quot;yep that needed more oak, or more malic acid.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do commercial winemakers do it, other than making dozens of batches?  Or is there no shortcut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6098" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T13:04:35.503" Title="How to adjust my wine?" Tags="|techniques|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10845" CreationDate="2014-05-09T18:41:50.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm waiting my time to take a full dead yeast packet. Because I follow the recommendation to just sprinkle the yeast over the wort and wait it to dip... One experienced 'brewer-master' said me that &lt;strong&gt;if the yeast is dead it doesn't hydrate neither sink, staying on surface&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you could remove it from the wort surface (siphoning the surface, or with a tablespoon, ...), and pitch a new one. But dead yeast packet seems to be so rare that I'm doing this like waiting my luck to win a lottery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T22:08:48.013" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T22:08:48.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11907" CreationDate="2014-05-09T19:08:58.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crossing all information I take from you all, Palmer, Papazian, and sparse in internet, I tried 2 solutions being there very adherent to what is explained in the Papazien's book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, it cannot be used in metals (aluminium neither in stainless steal), and the home bleach need to have about 5% of Chlorine. I use it only in glass, plastic, hoses, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) DEEP CLEANING: Use about 60ml of bleach in 20L of water (2 oz in 5 gallons). Immerse all objects to be cleaned and leave it there for 1 night (8 to 12 hours), of course you need to remove coarse dirt, before immersion. After the elapsed time, rinse them and they are ready to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) SANITIZE: Use about 5 to 10 ml (I prefer 10) in 20L of water (0.15 to 0.30 oz in 5 gallons). Immerse all objects (already cleaned) to be sanitized for about 30 min to 1 hour. As I use 10ml I always rinse them. But if I can leave them to dry for 1 night, I don't rinse (like bottles, and none off-flavors until now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oops! I need to say that I rinse using mineral water without chlorine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T22:50:00.770" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T22:50:00.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12264" CreationDate="2014-05-09T19:36:37.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get it just keeping the mashing in high temperature like 68C and 72C. I already got about 3 ABV using approximately 200g of malt to each 1L of water (0.44 pounds in 40oz).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, of course adjuncts can help you to build a custom body to your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T19:44:53.663" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T19:44:53.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11888" CreationDate="2014-05-10T01:24:53.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a couple of pages now that list numbers on the milage of a 5 lb tank. From what I gather you can carbonate 5-7 5 gallon corny kegs with a 5 lb tank. You can serve 15-22 5 gallon kegs with a 5 lb tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links on how many kegs you can force carbonate with a 5 lb tank: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/how-much-co2-force-carbonate-333455/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/how-much-co2-force-carbonate-333455/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegoutlet.com/how-many-liters-does-a-5lb-co2-tank-carbonate.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kegoutlet.com/how-many-liters-does-a-5lb-co2-tank-carbonate.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links on how many kegs you can force carbonate with a 5 lb tank: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micromatic.com/beer-questions/how-many-beer-kegs-dispensed-out-co2-tank-aid-89.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.micromatic.com/beer-questions/how-many-beer-kegs-dispensed-out-co2-tank-aid-89.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T01:24:53.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-10T23:20:23.817" Score="2" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I buy everything from Northern Brewer and it takes UPS 5 days to ship to me (If I'm not home early enough from work on Friday, I have to wait the weekend too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next week is going to have three days over 90*F in my town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB ships all yeast with an ice pack and state that they guarantee their yeast will arrive fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the yeast gets &quot;injured&quot; due to temperatures during shipment, will a yeast starter and proper aeration be all that is necessary to get back to normal? Or, should I wait until next week for them to ship?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T15:23:14.620" Title="Buying Yeast Online and Temperature during Transit" Tags="|yeast|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12317" CreationDate="2014-05-11T04:10:01.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By creating the starter, you are allowing the yeast to feed and propagate to the levels you require for your batch. I've had NB send me smack packs with an ice pack, and it arrived cold as expected (this was roundabout the beginning of September, so still pretty warm here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer your question more directly: Yes, you should be ok creating a starter (and it should propagate enough to give you enough viable cells). NB also typically ships packs that are well under the 2 month suggested shelf-life, though I've read and heard of people using packs that are over 10 months old and being fine after a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I want to note that I mention the ages of the packs in comparison because by WYeast's own words (on their website) warm temps have exactly the same effect as long storage life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6675" LastActivityDate="2014-05-11T04:10:01.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11907" CreationDate="2014-05-11T16:50:25.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If rinse water is at a premium, you could spray a shot of sulphite solution in each bottle. This will release a burst of sulphite gas, and since the sulphite is slightly acidic (or acts as an acid; I'm not a chemist), it also neutralizes the (alkaline) bleach solution, making it easier to rinse out. I've used this method lots of times in the past with good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try handling bleach solution some time, then shpritzing a bit of sulphite on your hands. You'll find it instantly gets rid of that unpleasant soapy feel. As a bonus, you get a roaring snootful of sulphite to clear out your sinuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-05-11T16:50:25.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12317" CreationDate="2014-05-12T15:23:14.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, it's hard to say. As Akuta said in the other answer, yeast viability is decreased by increased temperature as well as age.  Further, you don't know how old your yeast is until it arrives.  Northern Brewer definitely SHOULD be moving enough yeast to send fresh stuff, but it doesn't require a lot of age to decrease viability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I recommend: Use Jamil's Yeast Pitch Calculator (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mrmalty.com&lt;/a&gt;) and calculate how much yeast you'll need for your beer, with a starter, including dates. (You should always do a starter, whether the yeast is fresh and arrived cold or not.) Tell the calculator that your yeast is a month old, even though NB's yeast will likely be fresher. That will help account for the reduction in viability you may experience due to heat. A great many homebrewers are surprised at how much yeast they really should be using, even though Wyeast and White Labs say on their packaging that their packages contain enough yeast for 5 gallons of wort. That's really dependent on the gravity of the wort, as well as the age and handling of the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the OG of your beer, I suspect you'll find that you may want to consider purchasing 2 packs/vials of yeast instead of just one.  Jamil Zainasheff has done the yeast research and his pitch rate calculator is absolutely indispensable, and can help you account for things like temperature, somewhat, and age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4002" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T15:23:14.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2441" CreationDate="2014-05-12T20:38:11.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also try soaking it in vodka, or a similar neutral spirit then using a cheese clothe, or honestly, those grain bags sometimes have finer mesh than cheese clothe, to extract the liquid.  This wouldn't solve the issue of haze or oil, but might maximize flavor.  Have you or anyone tried any of the ideas above yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6784" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T20:38:11.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6585" CreationDate="2014-05-13T05:15:59.750" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a commercial kegerator system I don't see the point of corny kegs other than if you have a spare it can help to clean a sankey. I never open my sankey kegs. 180° Pbw and star san handle the cleaning. You can use co2, a garden sprayer, water pump, or vacuum pump to move the solutions in and out through a coupler with the one ways removed. Agitate them if they are really bad. Voila, clean/purged kegs. I use a two hole carboy cap with a ss racking cane in one hole and and plumb co2 to the other. Then I rack from the glass carboy directly into the keg, virtually eliminating any chance of contamination or oxygenation. Sankeys are only $85-100 brand new for a 1/6bbl. And you can get 1/4, 1/3, or 1/2bbl for not much more. (Or $20-30 if you have no morals) So really, why the corny? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6786" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-05-13T21:45:49.707" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T21:45:49.707" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-05-13T05:15:59.750" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12323" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12324" CreationDate="2014-05-13T15:46:50.037" Score="1" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed the same recipe 4 times. All 4 brews had 1.028-1.030 pre-boil gravity but today when I finished my mash I had 1.025. Any reasons that happen? And what impact will it have on my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6788" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-05-13T15:53:37.877" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T16:40:26.673" Title="Low Pre boil gravity" Tags="|all-grain|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12323" CreationDate="2014-05-13T16:40:26.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd consider that within a reasonable margin of error.  It will hardly affect your beer in a noticeable way.  I wouldn't worry about it at all.  In any case, that's pre boil.  If you just boil a bit longer, you'll have slightly less beer but you'll be able to hit your intended OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why it happened, there are any number of reasons for a minor thing like that.  Slight mis measurement of volumes or weights, slight difference in crush, different lots of malt.   Keep in mind that unless the malt comes from the same lot every time, there could be minor differences in potential extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T16:40:26.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12312" CreationDate="2014-05-14T11:42:02.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe most wine makers make these decisions up front, at least not for juice that they have not worked with before. Instead, you taste the wine at packaging time and then adjust accordingly with glycerin for sweetness or acids for tartness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial producers may blend finished wines, but ultimately it involves tasting throughout the whole process, and not up-front measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T11:42:02.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2692" CreationDate="2014-05-14T14:37:38.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was very excited to see what the community had to offer for this problem as I am in need of a cardboard box replacement as well.  Unfortunately, it appears that www.cwcrate.com is out of business.  Therefore, I continued to search for a solution.  I found the following sets of plans to make wooden crates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Wooden-Beer-Bottle-Crate/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;set 1&lt;/a&gt; -- enclosed box: these look really nice, but were beyond my skill level and equipment availability, plus I really wanted a crate that would hold 24 bottles&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Plywood-beer-crate/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;set 2&lt;/a&gt; -- plywood based crate for 24 bottles: this is exactly what I was looking for in terms of style, wood cost, size, etc...  However, I do not have a table saw and ripping all that plywood would have been very difficult for me&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewgeeks.com/12oz-beer-crate.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;set 3&lt;/a&gt; -- same basic plans as set 2, but made from 1x2 and 1x3 furring strips (i.e. no ripping on a table saw, just cross cuts with a circular or miter saw)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up going with set 3 as they were the right fit me for.  My wife expressed interest in helping so I taught her how to use the power tools and she ended up cutting most of the wood and I assembled them.  We bought enough wood and supplies to make 6 for around $55.  Additionally, we took an idea from &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/attachments/f51/71321d1344529346-better-bottle-crate-beer-crate-small.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; picture and painted the bottom front rail of each crate with chalkboard paint to provide a place to write some information about what is in the crate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the &lt;s&gt;finished&lt;/s&gt; almost finished product.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w6wJB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Semi-finished product&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, we decided to add an aged look by using a process which includes black tea (to provide tannin) and steel wool dissolved in vinegar which reacts with the tannin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture after the aging process.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bm5uq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Finished product&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3624" LastEditorUserId="3624" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T21:09:34.440" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T21:09:34.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12328" CreationDate="2014-05-14T22:38:09.710" Score="1" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;They were put in the fridge at day 11 or 12. I'm afraid to take them out (to resume carbonation) because of skunking. Is this valid? I've read the other questions about carbonation/temperature, etc, and I'm hoping they were already carbonated enough that I should just keep them in the fridge. [Its a porter] [brewing at another person's house!]&#xA;Thanks!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6791" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T08:55:13.870" Title="Half my batch (while carbonating) got put in the fridge by mistake" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12327" CreationDate="2014-05-14T22:49:03.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take them out of the fridge if you'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe leave one or two in as a &quot;control&quot; to see how the carbonation differs between the 3 groups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skunking has nothing to do with entering and then exiting a fridge, and everything to do with light interacting with hopped beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T22:49:03.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12327" CreationDate="2014-05-15T08:55:13.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends upon how long it was between when you added priming sugar and put them in the fridge. If it were 3 or more days, then you can just leave them there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is really if the yeast had enough time to turn the sugar into CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. This goes pretty quickly - just a few days if fresh yeast is used, but old yeast will take longer. The remainder of the carbonation time is spent waiting for the gas in the headspace to dissolve into the beer. And then the coolness of the fridge is a benefit - CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; becomes more soluble with lower temperature so you get better carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T08:55:13.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12334" CreationDate="2014-05-15T15:51:39.997" Score="1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;We brewed bear-flavored's Heady Topper clone last weekend, and the beer has just over 1# of hops in it (5 gallon) All of the hops are added at flameout and whirlpool (it actually doesn't even call for bittering hops, but does have hop extract @ 90 minutes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It got me thinking, when I brew my wit, I add about a cup of fresh citrus zest, crushed Indian Coriander, and chamomile at flameout. My question is, would it make more sense to add these around 180* during chilling? The wit smells UNBELIEVABLE when it is chilling, but if I am smelling it then, that means its no longer in the beer.  The last two I have had to 'dry adjunct' by throwing in post-fermentation additions of zest and chamomile.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T18:01:22.633" Title="&quot;Whirlpool&quot; Adjuncts" Tags="|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12333" CreationDate="2014-05-15T15:56:03.700" Score="1" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried long-term aged beers (year or more) side by side, one with o2-absorbing crowns, one without, and swear by the difference.  While it seems you want some oxidation in a long-term-aged beer, they generally just have a much better flavor/less sherry-like with an o2-absorbing crown.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when judging at a competition recently, I had another judge tell me that one should not use these on hoppy beers, as they will absorb the aroma and leave you with a aromaless AIPA/IIPA/APA.  Does this make any sense?  I would think it would make even more sense to use them on hoppy beers since they oxidize so easily.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T16:38:46.247" Title="O2-absorbing crowns - do they absorb other things?" Tags="|oxidation|packaging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12331" CreationDate="2014-05-15T16:16:19.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that there are both homebrew and commercial issues with absorbing crown liners causing &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; issues. There is a tweet circa 2010 by Ray Daniels (Cicerone) claiming 2/3s of a loss of aroma within a couple of weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how accurate this claim is; however, I can tell you that I use the caps with my beers, and if I'm drinking them within 6 months it doesn't cause much of an issue (even with IPAs). If you're planning on doing some long-term aging, controlling the temp of the beer in the bottle may be more effective at protecting the aromas (storage temp &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; affect the aromas in a great fashion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6675" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T16:16:19.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12331" CreationDate="2014-05-15T16:38:46.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be surprised if there is any merit to it, at least as far as my understanding of the science behind the oxygen absorbing crowns go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; can't simply be absorbed - it has to bond with another substance and oxidize it. The idea is that there is a substance in the crown that when activated by becoming wet will bond with O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, causing the chemicals in the crown to oxidize rather than the chemicals in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally the electrochemical potential favors the oxidation and not the reduction, so the redox reaction proceeds only one way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not the case and the oxidized scavenging compound is later reduced, releasing the oxygen to later oxidize something else, then perhaps that might later cause more oxidation of the aromatic compounds. But that would be a pretty silly design for a oxygen scavenging cap!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T16:38:46.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12330" CreationDate="2014-05-15T18:01:22.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a good idea to me. The temperature is high enough to sanitize the ingredients being added, yet lower than boiling so not all the delicate volatile aromatics are driven off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also consider trying this with a hopback and a plate or counterflow chiller. The theory is that since the hopback and chiller are sealed, any volatiles that are released are re-absorbed when the wort is chilled immediately to pitching temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T18:01:22.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-15T19:53:15.933" Score="1" ViewCount="2615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an ale (23L) that's been brewing for six days now, my recipe says I should bottle or keg it after eight. I don't have any bottles or a keg, but I do have another bucket (25L, made for brewing in) with a tap. Can I do the secondary fermentation in there and just draw it off with the tap for drinking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not an option then is it ok to leave it for another couple of days so I can order bottles? What about ghetto ways of bottling (like using plastic water bottles)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6792" LastEditorUserId="6792" LastEditDate="2014-05-15T20:19:38.137" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T19:40:35.333" Title="Do I have to bottle/keg an ale?" Tags="|bottling|ale|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12335" CreationDate="2014-05-15T20:00:38.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what you mean by a bucket, but what I have in my head is a 5G plastic bucket with a tap in it.  If that's the case, no it will not work.  You need to have some sort of container that can hold up under carbonation.  The same thing with your ghetto way of bottle, they won't stand up to the carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I like the 32oz EZTop bottles.  Bigger Size = Less bottling.  EZTop takes out the capping process.  If you take care of those bottles they should last you a while, just clean them before bottling your next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be fine with a few more days in the fermenter. Maybe someone can elaborate on how long is too long, but from my experience the longer you let it ferment the better it comes out.  The extra time allows the yeast to go back and &quot;clean up after itself&quot; resulting in less &quot;off flavors&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6328" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T20:00:38.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12335" CreationDate="2014-05-15T20:05:01.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, it's highly unlikely that the beer will be ready to drink in 8 days, no matter what the instructions say.  In general, it's more like a month.  But you can try it and see what you think.  That gives you plenty of time to order bottles.  You could easily leave your beer in the fermenter for a month or more and you'd likely be better off for it.  BTW, secondary fermentation has been found to be pretty much unnecessary.  It;s much more important for commercial brewers than homebrewers, due to the smaller scale we brew on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of bottling or kegging is twofold...first to extend the life of the beer.  If you just leave it in another bucket, it will accelerate the staling process. The second purpose is carbonation...in a bottle or keg, you use processes that allow CO2 to be absorbed into the beer.  If you kist drink it from the bucket, it will be flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T20:05:01.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12335" CreationDate="2014-05-15T20:05:01.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use plastic soda bottles, with the benefit that they larger than regular glass bottles so you don't need to fill as many. (And you don't need a capper.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can just leave the beer alone for a few days until you get the bottles. The secondary fermentation and subsequent conditioning happens in the bottle anyway after you add the priming sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T20:05:01.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12340" CreationDate="2014-05-15T21:07:09.413" Score="1" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to start a batch again, as I have now run out of beer.  I am brewing in smaller batches (8 litres).  I plan on splitting the wort and putting then into two separate fermenters.  Since a single pack of yeast is generally good for 25 litres, I want to take a single pack of dry Nottingham ale yeast and want to know if I can just split it in half and throw each into the fermenter?  The yeast is probably the most expensive ingredient for me - so it would make a difference to me.  I would still like the beer to have a ABV of around +4%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for the advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6794" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T21:24:09.887" Title="Halving my yeast for two batches" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12339" CreationDate="2014-05-15T21:24:09.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can do this.  You're ideally looking for a certain number of cells per milliliter per gravity of the wort.  So, using a half-packet of yeast for a half-sized batch will work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T21:24:09.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12270" CreationDate="2014-05-15T22:26:16.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, the answer to that question is going to depend on what you want the final alcohol content to be.  According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilju&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; article on Kilju, the typical alcohol content is 5-7%.  As you probably know, you can calculate the alcohol level using an alcohol hydrometer by measuring a before and after fermentation reading.  Using this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;calculator&lt;/a&gt;, I got a 6.5% alcohol content with a specific gravity reading of 1.060 before and 1.010 after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, your question is related to how much sugar is needed to reach that specific gravity.  This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewsite.com/apocalypse-beer-brew/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; indicates that 1 pound of cane sugar in (1 gallon) of water should yield a specific gravity of 1.046.  This &lt;a href=&quot;http://allrecipes.com/recipe/homemade-wine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recipe&lt;/a&gt; for sugar wine looks pretty good, but it doesn't list the expected specific gravity levels.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my mind, you are going to get the best results using an existing recipe and after you have successfully made it, start making changes to see what, if any, improvements you can make.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3624" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T22:26:16.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-16T04:36:14.163" Score="1" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a Gluten Free clone of Sam Summer for my wife, I took a kit from a home brew store that was close and added some lemon and lime zest, and some grains of paradise.  The kit uses sorghum extract, and this is the first time I have used this in a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I boiled on Saturday April 26th, almost 3 weeks ago, and I am still seeing bubbles in my primary fermenter.  Has anyone brewed with sorghum before?  Is this length of fermentation normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zgYuJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6143" LastEditorUserId="6143" LastEditDate="2014-05-20T03:38:21.467" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T04:50:21.650" Title="Gluten Free Brewing with Sorghum Extract" Tags="|fermentation|gluten-free|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12460" CreationDate="2014-05-17T07:51:52.077" Score="2" ViewCount="1166" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest the best recipe for making a ginger bug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that it is just ginger root and unrefined sugar, but is it better to use organic ginger (if so why?), what is the best sugar to use (I understand that some of it comes down to personal taste)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6799" LastEditorUserId="6799" LastEditDate="2014-05-17T16:03:49.623" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T19:31:30.320" Title="Creating the perfect ginger bug?" Tags="|fermentation|recipe|ginger-beer|ginger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12345" CreationDate="2014-05-17T17:39:41.603" Score="1" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're mashing our second batch (after a year of extract) and seems like we cannot keep the mash temp low enough.  We struck at 165F in an attempt to hit 152 for mash (grain was at 65F).  We saw a higher temp at first (~156) so we left the cooler open for a bit until we hit ~150F (lower than we wanted), but after closing the lid, the temp creeped back up to 156 range.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;so the Q: is, where is the energy coming from?  Is conversion adding that much energy to the mash? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T17:23:33.143" Title="What effect does conversion have on mash temp" Tags="|mash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12344" CreationDate="2014-05-17T18:05:23.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're not &quot;gaining energy&quot;.  You're just not distributing the energy that's there well enough.  Keep stirring the mash until you get the same temp at any location or depth.  Conversion is definitely not adding energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2014-05-19T17:23:33.143" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T17:23:33.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12335" CreationDate="2014-05-17T19:40:35.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speaking to the original question, strictly speaking, No, you don't have to bottle or keg.  Your could cask your beer as a traditional Ale would have been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T19:40:35.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12358" CreationDate="2014-05-18T17:41:55.337" Score="1" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a devil of a time finding citra hops in quantity. Everywhere I visit seems to carry citra, but none want to sell me more than a couple of ounces and usually at inflated prices. I mean $2.99 an ounce? C'mon!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have some information on the degree of shortage we are dealing with here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6525" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T22:18:11.163" Title="Citra hops shortage?" Tags="|hops|ingredients|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-18T19:07:55.987" Score="1" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;My partner and I are brewing a 6-gallon wine batch, and we disagree over when to bottle it.&#xA;It's been in the carboy for approximately 8 months, and I've read here and on other sites that bulk aging should be kept to a minimum of 1 year. Is this true? Would the result be better to bottle now or in several months?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6261" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T16:35:13.937" Title="Is it better to age a wine in bottles rather than bulk aging?" Tags="|bottling|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12350" CreationDate="2014-05-18T21:07:18.060" Score="1" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed a Munich Helles yesterday and fermented it with an ale yeast.  OG was 1.040 and it's in my fermentation fridge at 68f.  Today when I checked it the lid was domed but the airlock wasn't bubbling.  Assuming it was clogged, i,removed, cleaned and replaced  it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After watching for 10 mins and seeing a LOT of krausen coming through the airlock, I switched over to a blow off tube.  While there is some obvious activity in the tube, there is still a buildup of krausen and the lid seems still ready to pop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's happening? The only way I can get the lid down is to pull the tube and push krausen out through the hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T16:41:45.220" Title="Will this fermenter explode?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12349" CreationDate="2014-05-18T21:19:19.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Krausen shouldn't be so thick that it blocks the blow off tube causing the fermenter to explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to put on a lid with a bigger hole in it so there is more room for the Krausen to pass through?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not then I would keep doing what you are doing and clean out the gap every now and again. Remember when you clean it out you should sterilize it so that is doesn't get an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try to put some weight on the lid so that it doesn't bulge out and is forced to go through the blow off tube(but I would monitor this regularly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2014-05-18T21:19:19.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12364" CreationDate="2014-05-18T21:51:31.863" Score="3" ViewCount="9425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very old oak barrel that was given to me that used to have rum in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been empty for about 10 years but I would like to clean it to store cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to clean it so it is safe for next use? I cannot guarantee that it has been treated properly in the past and it has been exposed to air since it has been empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T17:01:56.257" Title="How to clean an old oak barrel" Tags="|cleaning|oak|barrel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12365" CreationDate="2014-05-19T03:07:43.163" Score="1" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bought a counterflow chiller... tested it with boiling water and it worked fine. I also siphoned sanitizer through it, no problems there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when I tried to siphon the wort, it clogged immediately. Realizing my mistake, I flushed the chiller and then retried, using a grain bag to filter the hops/trub. But it seemed that this still wasn't enough; the siphon simply would not flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone advise on what I'm doing wrong? What is the standard practice here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional info, in case it is useful:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm trying to siphon using gravity only&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My kettle does not have a valve/spigot, I'm just running a silicon line up and over the wall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm brewing with an extract kit, with hop pellets (to give you an idea of the trub I'm dealing with)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2450" LastEditorUserId="2450" LastEditDate="2014-05-19T19:15:22.223" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T17:17:53.107" Title="Difficulty siphoning through counterflow chiller" Tags="|wort|filtering|chiller|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12349" CreationDate="2014-05-19T16:41:45.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd just remove the lid and set it lightly on top, or cover the fermenter with foil or plastic wrap.  Many breweries use open fermentation.  Your will have a loose covering and the krausen will protect the beer.  Resecure the lid once the krausen drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T16:41:45.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2014-05-19T19:15:44.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a little different take on this. Just informational because I think it is so interesting how names emerge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My grandfather gave me most of the terminology that I use in the fermenting and distillation of things. He called once distilled hard cider and frozen concentrated hard cider by the same name-- applejack. Once it was put through the second distillation cycle he and his buddies called it moonshine. They sometimes distilled three times and it got really clear, when you shook it... basically no bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He called fermented mead brandy because he used wine making yeast and considered mead a form of wine, of course he also put all manner of fruit in his mead too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6809" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T19:15:44.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-19T20:43:00.700" Score="1" ViewCount="1503" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few topics about this here but nothing that gives info on my particular situation... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've fermented in primary for 1 1/2 weeks then transferred to secondary. Left the ale in there for another week and have just bottled my ale 2 days ago. The mix was still producing a heavy amount of gas at the time of bottling. The bottles are now in a dark environment at 20 degrees C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't ask why i did it this way. I think i messed up a few things but we'll see on the final result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When i bottled i added 1/2 teaspoon of priming sugar to each bottle and gently tipped the bottle till the sugar was dissolved. Iv'e got 35 pint bottles in total. They ale porcelain topped glass bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is when should i cold crash the cloudy ale? Should i cold crash them in another day or two or can i just leave them bottled and cold crash when i was to drink in 2-6 weeks? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the ale was very bitter when i bottled it, could that be a sign of trouble? Or be just because it's still young?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers, Brad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT: I think this is quite good info actually:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4877/am-i-required-to-refrigerate-bottles-after-bottling?rq=1&quot;&gt;Am I required to refrigerate bottles after bottling?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Didn't see it before...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So i should leave the cloudy ale in the bottle for a few weeks then cold crash when i want to drink? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6767" LastEditorUserId="6767" LastEditDate="2014-05-19T20:49:09.440" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T21:29:47.690" Title="Cold crashing bottled ale after fermentation" Tags="|bottling|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-19T20:47:15.310" Score="1" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a Dog Fish Head 90 min a month ago and it turned out pretty good for my first all grain.  The only thing I noticed was a slight/mild grain flavor, especially when it gets warmer, and it takes away some of the bitterness from the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea why this may be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the recipe I used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Malts:&#xA;16.5 lbs Pilsner Malt&#xA;1.66 lbs amber malt&#xA;&#xA;Hops:&#xA;2.00oz  Amarillo  8%  AA 90 - 0 minutes (every 10 min.)  pellets&#xA;0.62oz  Simcoe    10% AA 90 - 0 minutes (every 10 min.)  pellets&#xA;0.53oz  Warrior   15% AA 90 - 0 minutes (every 10 min.)  pellets&#xA;1.00oz  Amarillo  Dry Hop -  whole leaf&#xA;0.50oz  Simcoe    Dry Hop -  whole leaf&#xA;0.50oz  Warrior   Dry Hop -  whole leaf&#xA;&#xA;Yeast: WLP007&#xA;&#xA;Mash @152F from 60 min.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastEditorUserId="6665" LastEditDate="2014-05-22T14:00:00.987" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T05:41:05.887" Title="A Bit Of Grainy/Sweet Flavor In My Imperial IPA" Tags="|mash|grain|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12355" CreationDate="2014-05-19T21:29:47.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you have it.  Normally you cold crash at the end of fermentation, before bottling.  And a word of warning...if it was still outgassing heavily when you bottled it, it's likely fermentation wasn't finished.  Bottles could explode.  Keep it in a box in a closet, or somewhere safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T21:29:47.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12347" CreationDate="2014-05-19T22:18:11.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Citra hops are both extremely popular and a proprietary trademarked variety, so while more acres will go into production in the future the demand clearly exceeds the current supply. It takes about two years from planting to good commercial production off a row of hop bines, so answering the demand takes time.  This is why major brewers and hop suppliers have contracts for specific hops years in advance, promising the growers that they will take those varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A portion of available hops are routinely packaged in small units, just for the homebrew market.  This means that even if it is hard to find a mail order source for an exotic hop you may actually have it better than some of the new commercial breweries trying to make trendy exciting beers. Bigger operations might not be able to get larger packages of a particular hop at any price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This issue comes up with the most desired private sector hop strains. Here is an interesting article from a grower's perspective about another licensed hop variety, Simcoe, which had a shortage situation a few years ago.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://inhoppursuit.blogspot.com/2011/01/low-down-on-simcoe.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://inhoppursuit.blogspot.com/2011/01/low-down-on-simcoe.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for reference, hops always used to be developed by universities and then be growable by any farmer without a licensing fee. Some new public sector hops are just coming out of the Pacific Northwest: &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebeerdiaries.tv/4-new-public-hop-varieties/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://thebeerdiaries.tv/4-new-public-hop-varieties/&lt;/a&gt;  Within a few years we may be able to order some or all of them. Hopefully those four will not be the last &quot;free to grow&quot; species developed, due to university funding issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6512" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T22:18:11.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12342" CreationDate="2014-05-20T04:03:46.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that your FG ended well below what you anticipated, so long as there weren't any noticeable off flavors or aromas at bottling (indicative of a contamination would could affect the FG in a similar fashion), it's probably just that it took a bit longer to ferment to get down that low, and there was still CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; escaping from the solution.  I've seen batches bubble for up to a month after pitching the yeast when in reality, it was done after a week (which is still quite a while for most ales).  Give the bottles a week or two, try one, and if they're gushers or over-carbonated, make sure you immediately refrigerate the remainder of the bottles to try and prevent any accidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference, if you're curious in the future, take measurements 3 days in a row.  If the gravity reading doesn't change, it's done fermenting and would be safe for bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T04:03:46.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-20T08:37:50.233" Score="2" ViewCount="1410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know an algorithm or a calculator to compute thermal expansion of worts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time in homebrewing materials, it is said that in volume calculations one should account for 4% expansion of water from 20C to 100C (on standard pressure). More precise expansion can be calculated based on volumetric expansion coefficients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, because my volume measurements of wort do not add up (as if some wort is mysteriously vanished), I'm thinking whether the calculation is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't the thermal expansion of sugar solution different than the one for water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;JB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6736" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T09:00:31.370" Title="Thermal expansion of wort" Tags="|temperature|wort|calculations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12351" CreationDate="2014-05-20T12:17:17.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is of course a judgement call depending on just how grim it looks and how large it is. But I would start with filling it with warm water and PBW, let it sit for an hour and then give it a serious scrubbing. When done rinse out the PBW and sterilize the barrel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sterilization (or at least disinfection) can be done in several ways. In this case my method of choice, if applicable, would be heat. If you by any chance have access to a source of dry heat (e.g oven) large enough for the job then 170°C for 2 hours (+ time for the barrel to warm up) would properly sterilize the barrel (given that it actually became clean after your scrubbing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is unfeasible I would turn to wet heat (i.e. boiling). This may also pose some major problems if the barrel, as i suspect, is large. It would require that you have something to bring the filled barrel to boil, for example an immersion heater or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BPG4LI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;water heater element&lt;/a&gt;, but please do not electrocute yourself!If you do have access to this then a sterilization method called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyndallization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tyndallization&lt;/a&gt; would be recommended. Tyndallization, rather than just boiling will ensure that spores and not just bacteria is killed, despite the vague statement of efficiency in wikipedia this is taught at my university to be a method of proper sterilization, and I would thus trust it to be adequate for home-brewing purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this too turns out to be more trouble than it is worth then I would go for chemical disinfection. Bleach would do the job but I'm afraid it may be hard to rinse out properly and may spoil your cider, so StarSan is probably the safer choice. Fill the barrel up, add an appropriate amount of StarSan (see label) and leave it for about an hour. This is however not a method of proper sterilization. It will hopefully be good enough for our purposes, but sample your first batch with a bit of care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I have never myself attempted such a thing and have no experience of barrel cleaning, so there may be better ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6766" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T12:17:17.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-20T14:48:55.317" Score="4" ViewCount="431" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while ago I purchased a 4-line kegerator, I have one CO2 tank that carbonates 4 kegs of beer at around 11 psi. When I bring a new uncarbonated keg online, I just add it to an empty gas line and let it carbonate slowly over the course of one week (no force carbonation at 30 psi or rolling the keg around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About one week ago I added a brand new uncarbonated keg (Pale Ale) and I was expecting it to &#xA;be carbonated today. I tried to pour my first pint and all of a sudden a lot of foam came out and it seemed to pour at a much higher pressure than my other beers. I tried to pour several more beers, but they all had the same foaming issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the keg offline, released the pressure and opened the lid and saw a lot of foam inside the keg as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It puzzles me how this could have happened since I have 4 beers on the same setup and none of the other kegs have a foaming issue. My regulator is still showing 11 psi. And I don't believe that there is anything wrong with the beer since I bottled another keg with my neighbor and it pours perfectly on his kegerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what could have happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3602" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T01:20:59.877" Title="How can one keg be overcarbonated on a 4-line setup when all the other beers pour just fine?" Tags="|carbonation|kegerator|corny-keg|foam|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12356" CreationDate="2014-05-20T16:49:41.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pilsner malt is known for having a grainy flavor. Try switching to American 2-Row. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6700" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T16:49:41.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12351" CreationDate="2014-05-20T17:01:56.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Standard ways of cleaning barrels use really hot or boiling water to rinse and clean and/or using sulfur sticks. Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to completely sterilize a barrel. 10 years without being properly cared for is too long. The wooden staves shrink and I'm guessing it won't be able to hold liquid. Some breweries just rinse well with sterile water then get new barrels after 2nd or 3rd usage. Try getting a freshly used barrel or add wood cubes to your carboy. Absolutely, do not use harsh chemicals on the barrels, they stay in the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6700" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T17:01:56.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12352" CreationDate="2014-05-20T17:17:53.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using a grain bag wrapped tightly around the racking tube, it will clog very quickly. Also, flexible tubing draped over a kettle will collapse, or at least narrow, as hot wort is passing through it. You should use a rigid racking cane with a cap on the end that keeps the bottom of the cane raised from the bottom of the kettle by a few millimeters. Attach your tubing to the other end of the cane. Canes are available at any homebrew shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, get a scrubbing pad (without soap!) and tie it to the bottom of the racking cane. See the link below for &quot;Chore Boy&quot; -- they come in copper and stainless steel. This will filter the bulk of the hops out. Move your grain bag to the top of the fermenter to catch the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, remember that the flow rate is a function of the different in height between your kettle and fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://choreboyscrubbers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chore Boy Scrubbers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T17:17:53.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12356" CreationDate="2014-05-20T17:48:47.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely the culprit is incorrect base malt, as well as no dry hopping. IPAs of this gravity need a massive dose of hops to keep their hop-forward character. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not appear to be a DFH 90 minute clone. The real beer is continually hopped, and most clone recipes call for a large amount of dry hops as well. Also, you should be using American Pale 2-row for this recipe, not pilsner malt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6535" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T17:48:47.933" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12369" CreationDate="2014-05-21T00:55:20.767" Score="10" ViewCount="4193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I order extracts from NB and most of them come with a disposable mesh bag with specialty grains, the instructions specifying to take the grains out after the temperature reaches 170*F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After pulling the mesh bag out, I have always squeezed it relentlessly to get every drip out of the mesh bag (often hurting myself from the heat in the process -- but I figured it was worth it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just 2 minutes ago, however, I was squeezing the mesh bag as normal when I noticed that the liquid seeping out of the mesh bag was altering the color of the (pre-)wort, and it struck me that this might not be a good idea. Thinking back on it, I've seen this before but it never bothered me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Primary question: is it ok to squeeze the bag to remove every particle of liquid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary question: what accounts for the difference in color that I noted while squeezing the bag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2021-05-06T18:02:33.777" Title="To Squeeze or Not To Squeeze the speciality grain mesh bag?" Tags="|extract|extract-brewing|specialty-grains|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-21T01:00:34.937" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a relatively short time period I will finally embark on all-grain brewing. I would rather purchase grains online as it is cheaper than the LHBS, but the LHBS won't let me use their crushing equipment unless I bought the grains from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping that there was some hard and fast rules regarding this, like &quot;after 3 days, crushed grains start to lose potency; after 10 days, throw them out.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this time frame depend on the type of grain, or are they all about the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any (relatively) non-anecdotal evidence in this regard? I.e. did anyone ever purchase 10 pounds of one grain, crush 5 pounds, and brewed n many days later? (Double blind taste tests preferred)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T01:00:34.937" Title="How long do crushed grains last?" Tags="|all-grain|grain|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-05-21T01:15:10.123" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12367" CreationDate="2014-05-21T11:12:12.853" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is OK squeeze. In fact, you want as much extract as possible from the specialty malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a common myth that squeezing the grain bag is a bad idea due to &quot;tannins being extracted&quot; or similar. There is no reason for this to be true --- tannins are extracted from the grain (husk) only if the temperature during steeping/mashing is too high. And then not squeezing will not help. So squeeze away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The observation that the color of the wort changes as you squeeze is simply due to the fact that you extract more of the darker-colored liquor from the specialty malt. This is good: if you do not squeeze, you need more specialty malt to achieve the same wort. You want as much extract as possible from the specialty malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, steeping specialty malts is not an exact science.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T05:22:22.837" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T05:22:22.837" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12372" CreationDate="2014-05-22T01:16:01.870" Score="4" ViewCount="2083" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a limit on how many times you can re-use a hop bag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the bag to make a hop tea to drop into the fermenter to flavor my beer.&#xA;I clean the bag by boiling it in water for 5 minutes before each use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used it 5 times so far but the color of the bag is starting to change to a darker color than it was originally so wondering if I should stop using it and use another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T08:32:01.813" Title="How many times can you re-use a hop bag?" Tags="|beer|hops|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12367" CreationDate="2014-05-22T01:44:39.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always put the grain bag in a strainer and pour 2-4 quarts of 155-160f water slowly through the bag to remove anything additional from grains. This is the extract brewer's sparge equivalent. I've never read anywhere that squeezing was a good thing, but I have read from several reliable sources that it's a bad thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6763" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T01:44:39.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12370" CreationDate="2014-05-22T04:46:39.707" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The color is just from the oils of the hops, likely discolored further from extended use and boiling.  You sanitizing it by boiling it will kill off most unwanted bacteria from settling in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried that it'll get too grimy, weight it down into an Oxy-Clean or PBW solution for 24-48 hours, taking it out periodically to scrub it and rinse it before submerging it again.  This will clean up a lot of the gunk on it and help keep it clean.  Just boil it before you're ready to use it again and you're good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've re-used hop bags for months.  They'll turn green, brown, anything other than black.  Black is bad.  If it goes black, and you can't get it out, don't use it.  Mold is not something you want submerged in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T04:46:39.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12370" CreationDate="2014-05-22T18:39:01.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can continue to reuse the bag plenty, a bit of coloration from the hops and beer is no a problem.  Boiling will kill everything you're worried about, although you can also soak the bag in sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best method I have found for cleaning hop bags is the washing machine.  Throw all your brewing towels, hop bags, grain sacks, etc. in the washing machine with a couple of scoops of your favorite cleaner (pbw, unscented oxyclean, etc) and run it all through a hot cycle.  This also ensures that all the particulate gets cleaned out of the bags - they can be very hard to rinse effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2202" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T18:39:01.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12378" CreationDate="2014-05-23T03:46:44.387" Score="1" ViewCount="1739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make some small batches of home-made cola, tonic water, and ginger ale - usually making a batch of syrup, then mixing up a corny keg full and force-carbonating it over a few days. Normally I bottle and sell these at a market, so having a keg of each is a good amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just had someone wanting to place a small order - roughly half a keg's worth of bottles. I'm hoping I can just make up a half-keg, and force carbonate it as normal, but is there anything I should consider before I try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some specifics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the extra head space in the keg have any effect?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will I need more or less pressure? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will it take more time or less?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been pressurising a full keg up to 45psi for 72 hours, with some gentle agitation whenever I remember to do it. This yields a nice gentle carbonation that I'm happy with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drinks don't stay in the keg any longer than required to carbonate and bottle - 72 hours, tops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3416" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T06:19:33.513" Title="Can I force carbonate a half-full keg of homemade cola?" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|soda|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12374" CreationDate="2014-05-23T08:29:35.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had some accidents with my new brewing software and I ended up with 10 liters of beer instead of 18. I kegged and carbonated and it worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never tried kegging cola, but I am sure that the process is the same. As long as the regulator is set to a specific level you should be good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T08:29:35.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12370" CreationDate="2014-05-23T08:32:01.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also try bleaching the bag. That &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; return it to a white-ish color. Just wash it afterwards! I believe you can use the bag as long as it is structurally sound and the material has not started to break apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T08:32:01.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12356" CreationDate="2014-05-23T08:37:15.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can bring in a grainy taste during mashing and sparging. Take a look at your procedure and make sure that you are not over-sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Another thing: What was your original and final gravity? It may be that your fermentation did not complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastEditorUserId="3056" LastEditDate="2014-05-26T05:41:05.887" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T05:41:05.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12374" CreationDate="2014-05-23T08:42:06.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's no problem carbonating half a keg, other than you use twice as much gas (you still have to fill the whole keg of gas at the same pressure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, a refill for my 20lb CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; tank costs about $120 so it's quite expensive. So, to get the most from the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; I'd just make up a full keg of syrup and carbonate that. Give your customer the half keg he wants and use the rest yourself. If you can chill the keg while carbonating that will be ideal since you'll get more carbonation for less CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; used, and the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; will stay in solution better when transferring to bottles so you lose less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T08:42:06.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12360" CreationDate="2014-05-23T09:00:31.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For temperature coefficients of sugar solutions, &lt;a href=&quot;http://faculty.ksu.edu.sa/kamelsmida/Free%20publications%20in%20my%20%20Research%20Field/sdarticle9.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; empirically determines expansion coefficients for grape juice. For 22% brix, density at 20&amp;deg;C is 1.097 vs 1.065 at 80&amp;deg;C - which corresponds to a volume in increase of 3%. At 100&amp;deg;C the figure is closer to 4% as expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between using 4% and the actual temperature coefficients of various sugars is going to be small - a fraction of a percent. I doubt the volume scale on your kettle is this precise or accurate, so your losses are more likely to come from somewhere else and not specifically with discrepancies in thermal expansion calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many places you lose wort volume during boiling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;absorption by dry hops (these absorb ca 5 times their dry weight in wort)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loss to trub, hot and cold break&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;losses in hoses, chiller &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;losses in deadspace in the kettle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;evaporation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All but the last are real losses - you will see a reduction in the density*volume figure - here, you are specifically losing volume and some quantity of dissolved solids. With evaporation, density*volume remains the same, so it's not a real loss, but just a concentration of the solids that are there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T09:00:31.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12362" CreationDate="2014-05-23T17:03:51.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had that happen with an infection before. Check valve keeps the pressure from heading to the other kegs, but it builds up in the infected keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T17:03:51.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12362" CreationDate="2014-05-24T00:44:02.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be any number of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Style of beer, some styles require more/less carbonation and pressure. Could be a kink or something in the line that causes the beer to bubble/foam in the line on the way out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe try hooking the keg up to one of your other faucets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6777" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T00:44:02.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12382" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-24T14:09:53.527" Score="1" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 5 sq ft chest freezer and A419 Johnson temp control for fermenting my beer.  I hooked everything up with a Setpoint temp of 63 degrees and a Differential of 1 degree to test it out.  The freezer kicks on just as the A419 moves to 65 degrees as expected, but doesn't kick off until the freezer cools to around 55 degrees (or sometimes cooler).  The reason appears to be because the A419 thermostat is slow to react to the temp change inside the freezer.  The freezer runs for about 2 minutes before the A419 finally drops to 61 degrees and cuts off.  But after the freezer cuts off the temp reading on the A419 continues to drop as it &quot;catches up&quot; to the actual change in temp within the freezer.  Is this normal?  Should I expect a true 10-12 degree differential because of a slow-reacting thermostat or do I have a defaulting A419?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6827" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T18:26:17.890" Title="Accurate Temp with Johnson A419 &amp; Freezer" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2014-05-24T17:20:23.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cherries have natural yeast on their surface so if you do not wash the cherries but place them in a jar with sugar they should ferment.  According to my late grandfather (who made many, many batches of vishnick) you should allow it to ferment in a dark location for at least a year and then drain off the liquor after a year. The original jar should be covered by a breathable fabric (so it doesn't explode from the carbon dioxide (fermentation product).  I did attempt this process but I ended up with larvae after a few weeks from the eggs that must have been contained on the surface of the cherries.  Still working on perfecting this simple technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6832" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T17:20:23.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12382" CreationDate="2014-05-24T18:21:04.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/content/us/en/products/building_efficiency/products-and-systems/commercial-refrigeration/commercial_refrigeration/temperature/electronic2/a419singlestage.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This web page&lt;/a&gt; mentions the device has an &quot;Adjustable Anti-Short Cycle Delay&quot; that controls a time delay that avoids rapid on-off cycles of whatever it is you are controlling. Could it be this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, do a test: Dip the probe in boiling water and see what the screen displays. If there is a long delay before the display shows the correct temp (100C) then I think it's faulty. There should not such a big delay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PID controllers are designed to avoid this problem of over/undershoot. But a 12deg overshoot is a bit much in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6539" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T18:21:04.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12382" CreationDate="2014-05-24T18:26:17.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using my A419 to chill beer, not control fermentation temperature, but I found dropping the probe into an improvised well (in my case an empty plastic quart bottle) stabilized the temperature. If you do try a well of some sort, make sure the probe can't come into contact with liquid: the cable is waterproof or at least water-resistant, the probe isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be that 63 degrees is too close to your ambient temperature for the thermostat to settle down properly. I wouldn't know about that, since mine is set to 34 F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T18:26:17.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12390" CreationDate="2014-05-25T21:40:22.883" Score="0" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can altitude have an effect on carbonation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was at the in laws last week and discovered all of the homebrews I brought (about 6) were foaming over when opened. However, all those from the same batch at home are fine. I know I stirred in the priming sugar consistently, and even if I didn't, the odds that those 6 alone, randomly selected, got over carbonated. The only difference between here and there is about 1000 feet in altitude (in laws being higher). Could that be the cause of the foam spewers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2014-05-26T00:35:36.237" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T09:08:44.187" Title="Carbonation and altitude" Tags="|carbonation|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-25T21:43:02.540" Score="0" ViewCount="1540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Raspberry Pi with water-proof temperature probes to monitor the temperature of my fermenting wort, and I feed the probe through the airlock to make direct contact with the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two out of my last three batches have resulted in an overflowing airlock. For one of them I had to remove the airlock (and temperature probe) and replace it with a blow-off tube. This is undesirable for me as I then have to attach the probe to the side of the carboy with insulation material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other batch that I have right now is flooding the airlock but is not so bad that I have to replace the airlock with a blow-off tube. I am simply taking a paper towel and attempting to absorb some of the wort in the airlock, and then refill it with vodka up to the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My worry is that the wort in the airlock will become contaminated as it is a mixture of 40% vodka and wort, and that the wort next-in-line to enter the airlock will become contaminated and then the whole batch will become contaminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could obviously just take the airlock out, wash it, and put it back in. However I had my first contaminated batch and have become adverse to taking the airlock out for short periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can the wort inside an overflowing airlock contaminate the batch?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T05:53:43.857" Title="Overflowing Airlock and Contamination" Tags="|airlock|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12387" CreationDate="2014-05-25T22:30:00.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would deem this to be a very minor risk indeed. As long as you have a bit of alcohol (or anything that bacteria dislikes) in there, 15% would do, you will not have growth. The shape of the airlock would itself be sufficient to avoid contamination, a similar setup was used by Louis Pasteur when he disproved spontaneous generation of life back in the days, and his broth was uncontaminated for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it is comforting to have a disinfectant in the airlock the main reason for having liquid there at all is to decrease the amount of oxygen getting in to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6766" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T22:30:00.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12387" CreationDate="2014-05-26T05:53:43.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer: In theory No. See Korsbo's answer. Contamination from when you remove or re-insert the airlock is a bigger possibility. When you have cleaned your airlock, sanitize it (and the place when you will be inserting it). That will give you extra cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not stop using the airlock completely and just use an blow-off? Maybe drill a small hole in the block-off, just past the top of the turn, and insert your probe from there. This will allow the wort to happily escape, due to the hole being at the top, and past the bend, the wort should not escape there, and the wort that does contact the probe will then be on their out in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can maybe even consider sealing the hole (with probe inserted) with some silicon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T05:53:43.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12386" CreationDate="2014-05-26T11:12:56.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently the lower pressure can cause the beer to lose carbonation faster, causing foamers. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/effects-altitude-carbonation-1523/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/effects-altitude-carbonation-1523/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be an infection. Did you notice any change in flavour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T11:12:56.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12266" CreationDate="2014-05-26T11:28:41.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. After the bubble stop you can assume that the fermentation is complete. BUT: wait a few days more, just to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixA.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Taking gravity readings&lt;/a&gt; will help you determine if the fermentation is really complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would agree with @Tom on the tablets. They work a charm! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewcraft.co.za/index.php?page=shop.product_details&amp;amp;flypage=vmj_color_plus.tpl&amp;amp;product_id=207&amp;amp;category_id=60&amp;amp;option=com_virtuemart&amp;amp;Itemid=40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this funky spoon&lt;/a&gt; in case of emergencies. I can then just add table sugar to my bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bottling bucket&lt;/a&gt;, where you add a measured amount of sugar to a bucket, then pour your beer into that and mix it well, and then bottle from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR you can add a few dried grapes (we use Sultanas in South Africa). The yeast will start eating the sugars in the grape and cause secondary fermentation and carbonation. The amount of grapes to use is unknown, so be careful. (The grapes will also swell up again).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR you can put your ginger beer in a keg, force carbonate, leave for a few days to stabilize and then (using a counter-pressure bottle filler or a &quot;beergun&quot;) fill from there, or just leave it in the keg and enjoy on tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T11:28:41.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-27T00:48:33.443" Score="3" ViewCount="17406" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poured e bottles of brown ale 4weeks after bottling.  Glass filled with foam with each bottle.  Friend said he had the same issue with a pumpkin ale even a year after bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is causing this issue and will the beer taste ok if drank from bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6835" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T14:57:58.687" Title="Excessive foam when pouring from bottle" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12399" CreationDate="2014-05-27T07:06:55.550" Score="3" ViewCount="945" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Protafloc Copper Finings for clearing the brew from proteins by adding it to the boil 15 minutes before the end of it. The product's made from red seaweed (Eucheuma Cottonii): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brupaks.com/protafloc.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.brupaks.com/protafloc.htm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to what it says on the package, best before date of this product expires next month. I've read that a similar product - Irish Moss - almost never expires (&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6039/does-irish-moss-expire&quot;&gt;Does Irish Moss expire?&lt;/a&gt;) How is it with Protafloc - should I worry about that expiry date, for how long would it still do its work? Could I extend the period by keeping it in the fridge or freezer? If it does start to lose its potency, is it OK to just increase the amount or are there some drawbacks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3877" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T07:44:09.030" Title="Does Protafloc expire?" Tags="|irish-moss|finings|clarification|fining|copper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12392" CreationDate="2014-05-27T13:37:42.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 prominent answers to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Over carbonation. Can be a problem if the bottles start to explode. Solution when serving: Pour beer into a &lt;a href=&quot;http://images.plasticboxshop.co.uk/images/products/zoom/1358779863-80468500.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;jug with a lid&lt;/a&gt; so that the foam is to the lid level and close lid. Repeat for another jug or two (depending on amount of beer that you want drink). Now pour from jug 1 (with the lid still on). The lid holds the foam back and you can get to your beer! Time will also allow the head to fall back, releasing the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Infection. Bad news. Your beer tastes and smells different from what you planned (sour/acidic). Most people do not like sour beers. I would throw it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To not have over-carbonation, see @uSlackr's link or use carbonation drops (one per bottle for less than 500ml, 2 for less than 1000ml, etc. If you are using a bottling bucket, sugar or other methods, I can't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infections: Clean and sanitize better. Remember the caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T13:37:42.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12232" CreationDate="2014-05-27T18:40:59.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did the same thing with my first 5-10 batches before I figured it out lol &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never had any problems with infections or anything like that.  I think the reason is that I always thoroughly washed everything.  When I went to the homebrew store and asked the same question you just did, the guys who worked there were like oh no you can't do that, you'll get an infection every time.  yeah whatever guys.  Anyway, I would say that while it's not preferable to not sanitize (because who wants to waste a batch) it's definitely not a guaranteed failure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6838" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T18:40:59.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12408" CreationDate="2014-05-27T19:37:10.300" Score="3" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on brewing a herb beer; &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rooibos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rooibos&lt;/a&gt; Honey Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question one is: How can I estimate (ball park) the amount of herbs to use prior to brewing the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I make a tea and then calculate the ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question two: Rooibos has a distinct aroma and taste, should I do 30 minute and flame-out additions, or just one at flame-out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T16:27:38.940" Title="Determining the amount of herbs to use" Tags="|boil|calculations|spices|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2109" CreationDate="2014-05-27T19:44:50.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've also been diagnosed with EOE and have avoided beer, ovaltine, Ben and Jerry's brownie ice cream, cheese nips, and anything else with malt for the last 20 years for the same reasons you have.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may sound strange, but if you have the chance, try a small taste of an ale like Rodenbach Grand Cru (or other Flemish red brown ale) to see if your body reacts the same as it does to beer.  Where I live it's available by the 750ml bottle at Costco.  Yes, it does have malt, but immediately upon trying it (and smelling it even) I could tell I wasn't allergic to it.  I think it has something to do with the very long fermentation process used in making it.  If it works for you, then there are plenty of sources out there with home brewing this ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and I hope it works for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6839" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T19:44:50.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12367" CreationDate="2014-05-27T22:11:32.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One answer I was told was squeezing a grain bag (perhaps one with larger holes) may produce fine grain particulate matter, which would increase the quantity of protein matter and lead to boil overs.  I have not read anywhere where this idea holds up.  I lightly squeeze, but do not tightly grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1793" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T22:11:32.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12393" CreationDate="2014-05-28T07:44:09.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From these documents:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.murphyandson.co.uk/datasheets/Data-Sheets2/Protofloc%20Powder.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF1&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.murphyandson.co.uk/datasheets/Data-Sheets2/Protafloc%20Tablets.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store in cool conditions, away from direct sunlight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep containers sealed when not in use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum storage temperature - 30°C &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recommended storage temperature - 10 to 15°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimum storage temperature - Not applicable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shelf life at the recommended storage temperature is 2 years from date of manufacture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the amount is NOT recommended (see the links above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what happens when it expires, but I might test it with a small batch of beer to ensure that it does not ruin the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, email the manufacturer and ask them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T07:44:09.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12367" CreationDate="2014-05-28T15:51:16.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Squeezing the bag is not bad, and will not result in off flavors. It also is NOT the ideal way to extract all the remaining sugars and color from the grains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are better off sparging the grain bag with hot water. You can set the bag in a colander, and pour hot water over it until the water runs mostly clear out of the bottom. This will more effectively flush the remaining desirable sugars and flavors from the grains to the wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6535" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T15:51:16.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-28T17:34:58.943" Score="4" ViewCount="2240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used malted wheat instead of torrified wheat by mistake in making an ale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How ill this effect the final product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6846" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T19:13:41.650" Title="Malted wheat rather than torrified wheat" Tags="|ingredients|wheat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12401" CreationDate="2014-05-28T18:04:13.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The flavor will be very slightly different.  Probably not enough to notice unless you did a side by side with the same beer made with torrified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T18:04:13.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12401" CreationDate="2014-05-28T19:13:41.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torrefied wheat can sometimes be drier, and create a good head without haziness in the beer. But if you are only using a few hundred grams / 4-8oz and not brewed the recipe before then relax, your beer will still be fine. If you have brewed it before, you might find the beer doesn't taste as crisp/dry as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T19:13:41.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12232" CreationDate="2014-05-28T23:28:25.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should definitely wait and see, but I would remain optimistic. Even if conditions are not 100% sanitary, yeast often has the competitive advantage over other organisms due to abundance  and other factors. Once fermentation begins, infection is increasingly unlikely since alcohol will kill or inhibit most microorganisms, whereas yeast are relatively tolerant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T23:28:25.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1658" CreationDate="2014-05-29T11:29:19.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd vote for bananas as the best, and definitely easiest to use.&#xA;They have a high pH level, which translates as 'not sour' - sourness is usually not desired in beers. They also have a distinctive taste, but never something that would be overflowing. Banana flavour also matches the style with many wheat beers. Additionally, with wheat beers, having some haze is acceptable, due to the high protein levels of wheat malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use bananas, it's best to sanitize (not boil) them, and put in a secondary, or after the primary fermentation has finished, otherwise their subtle flavour might actually even be lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3877" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T11:29:19.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-29T13:09:48.153" Score="1" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 bars, both with lager kegs. One is gassed with co2 and the other is with mixed 60/40. Can I use a half used keg from one bar in the other, ie mixing the gasses in the keg or do I need to de gas it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6849" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T15:07:46.797" Title="Gassing a lager keg" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12406" CreationDate="2014-05-29T15:07:46.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can do that although you may encounter some problems.  The beer gas (60/40) is likely at a higher pressure, so hooking a conventionally carbonated keg may (repeat, MAY) cause it to dispense with too much pressure and cause excessive foaming.  That might require reducing the serving pressure by adjusting the beer gas regulator.  OTOH, it may not be a problem.  I say try it and adjust accordingly if you have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T15:07:46.797" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12396" CreationDate="2014-05-29T16:27:38.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Their are 3 ways to do do this that will yield good results: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold brew the tea and add it to primary or secondary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the Rooibos during flame-out &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the Rooibos to the boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We highly suggest the first method, as this will preserve most of the distinct aroma and flavor you mentioned. If brewing a 5 gallon batch of beer, we suggest the addition of 1/2 gallon of brewed Rooibos liqour - brewed with 75g of Rooibos overnight in cold water! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method has the additional benefit of adding liquid and minute fermentable sugars to primary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your alternatives methods (2 &amp;amp; 3), have a few disadvantages;&#xA;method 2 will add more bitterness to the beer, though it will keep more body and require less tea (about 50 - 60g). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Method 3 will add the most bitterness, and you will loose almost all of this spice and floral notes that create the unique flavor from Roiboos. It has the single advantage of requiring minimal tea (about 40 - 50g, any more than this and it will be overwhelmingly bitter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link about cold brewing tea-&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arborteas.com/teablog/tea-preparation/cold-brewing-tea-why-you-should-and-how-to-do-it/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Honey&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you can, try to add honey in the primary when the beer is about 60-70% done with fermenting.  Use a Hydrometer to find the fermentation point.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you add honey in the boil it adds mouthfeel, but not much honey flavor which would complement the Rooibos flavor.  As the yeasts start to ferment the types of sugars(maltose, glucose, etc.) which are slightly different from the honey.  The yeast will get used to that type of sugar and when you add the honey to the primary less of it will be fully fermented adding more honey flavor to your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answered by: The Gastrograph Team&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6850" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T16:27:38.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12348" CreationDate="2014-05-29T16:35:13.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bulk aging has one advantage over bottle aging, it ages much faster.  Once in the bottle, wine will still age, but less.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you add Potasium Metabisulfate right before you bottle it will stop the yeast. A big way fermented beverages age(not distilled) is from the yeast still living.  This will lessen the aging process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overall:&lt;/strong&gt; Do what tastes the best.  Take a sample.  If it tastes good, then bottle it.  If it doesn't, age it a little longer in the carboy.  I've heard of some people aging their wine for only 4 weeks before drinking it.  It really depends on the type of wine and what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answered by: The Gastrograph team&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6850" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T16:35:13.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12279" CreationDate="2014-05-29T16:39:11.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider along with the wooden spoon is if you grind your grains in the same room as you brew.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lactobacillus comes from the grains and while grinding or even pouring out of the bag, tiny grain particles can float in the air for a while like dust.  These small particles can then find their way into your cooled wort or fermentation vessel.  The way to stop this is to always grind your grains in a different area from where you brew.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answered by: The Gastrograph Team&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6850" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T16:39:11.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12392" CreationDate="2014-05-30T05:40:35.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over-carbonation is the most likely culprit. I've had this happen to a couple of batches, presumably as some combination of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not enough attenuation of the yeast to bring down the final gravity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too much sugar added at bottling time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially i was brewing from recipes which included a standard amount of priming sugar. You can use a priming sugar calculator (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;) to adjust the amount appropriately and avoid over-carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the bottled beer has matured, you should store it someplace cool to keep the yeast from continuing to produce carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3420" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T05:40:35.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12414" CreationDate="2014-06-01T20:33:20.933" Score="1" ViewCount="5044" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm brewing the recipe below for my wife. (She wanted a &quot;fruity&quot; beer.&quot;) It was listed on beersmith.com as &quot;Strawberry Cream Ale&quot;. I asked at the LHBS, and they confirmed what I thought, in that there was no lactose, so this isn't a true 'cream ale'. It's in the mash right now, and I was wondering, is there a way to make this into a true cream ale? How much lactose should be added for a 5 gallon batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, let's assume I can't make it back tot he LHBS to get lactose. Can I just use straight whole milk or heavy cream instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;8 lbs   Pale Malt (2 Row) US &#xA;1 lbs   Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L &#xA;1 lbs   Corn, Flaked (1.3 SRM)&#xA;1.0 oz  Cascade [5.5%] - Boil 60 min &#xA;1 pkgs  California Ale (White Labs #WLP001)&#xA;4.00 lbs    Strawberries (Secondary 7 days)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T01:28:46.607" Title="Amount of lactose (or milk?) to make a real 'Cream Ale'," Tags="|ingredients|ale|lactose|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12413" CreationDate="2014-06-01T21:56:14.890" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think lactose is desirable in a cream ale. Don't let the name fool you, cream ales have no cream or lactose or anything of the sort. They're basically American lager type beers fermented with ale yeast. Lactose would add sweetness and take away from the crisp finish most people would find desirable in this kind of beer. That's why the recipe calls for flaked corn, to minimize body and lend a crisp, dry finish: the exact opposite of what lactose would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style06.php&quot;&gt;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style06.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to add it if you want of course!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6858" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T21:56:14.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12416" CreationDate="2014-06-02T12:44:28.520" Score="4" ViewCount="8230" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm experiencing an Acetaldehyde problem. Some of my beers start off seeminging fine, but develop the classic &quot;green apple&quot; flavor of Acetaldehyde in the keg. My most recent one is a Munich Helles lager, a 1.050 beer into which I pitched 2 packets of 34/70 dry lager yeast (should be sufficient cells). I've had Acetaldehyde in Pale Ales previously, and perhaps in my darker beers, it is present but masked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, my lager was spot-on from the brew day up until about 1 month of lagering. My fermentation temps were 50-52F with a 65F d-rest as the beer neared 1.020FG, and I even hit my mash pH on brew day, a first. The first month of lagering, the beer tasted like a young, rough lager, which was expected. At about a month in, I pulled a sample and said 'UGH!' as the dreaded green apple aroma came off glass before I could even taste it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am not positive why I am having these issues, but I suspect it was poor aeration. I was just stirring the crap outta my wort after it chills down to 100F or so. I'm now borrowing a buddy's pure O2 setup to do oxygenation, so I'm hoping that's the fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, &lt;strong&gt;I'd like to know if there's a way to fix Acetaldehyde in a finished beer&lt;/strong&gt; (a light colored lager in this case), given that the Acetaldehyde might have come from poor oxygenation at pitching, or perhaps a touch of oxidation during kegging (not sure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T13:16:06.277" Title="How do I fix Acetaldehyde in a finished beer?" Tags="|acetaldehyde|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12415" CreationDate="2014-06-02T13:10:10.853" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that it happens a long time after your beer has reached FG, I doubt it's due to insufficient oxygen in the wort at pitching time. If it were insufficient oxygen, that would lead to a poor ferment, with the CH&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt;CHO being created as the penultimate step in fermentation (conversion of pyruvate into acetaldehyde and carbon dioxide) but the poor fermentation conditions preventing the completion of last step - reduction of acetaldehyde into ethanol. You would taste the acedaldehyde sooner rather than later.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves two other options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;acetobacter contamination: Acetaldehyde is produced by acetobacter as a precursor to acetic acid. This can make the beer taste more cidery/tart, like bruised apples.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;oxidation of ethanol: if the beer is exposed to oxygen, this can reverse the reduction and turn the ethanol back into acetaldehyde. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you have this in several beers, then it seems to be an issue with process, which could be either of the above. It's worth double-checking sanitation procedures. But if we assume the sanitation is good, then really the culprit is most likely oxidation post-transfer. You can reduce the chances of this during transfers by purging the racking cane and receiving vessel with CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this in an already brewed beer, I would add more wort and fresh yeast (ideally with the yeast already fermenting the wort.) The yeast will continue to ferment, and will bring fresh reserves of Alcohol Dehydrogenase, the enzyme used to reduce acetaldehyde to ethanol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-06-02T13:16:06.277" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T13:16:06.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12419" CreationDate="2014-06-02T14:13:09.547" Score="1" ViewCount="944" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on brewing a RIS maybe the next month and I was thinking of leave it in the secondary for a couple of weeks and then pass it to a keg and leave it at room temp for a few months.  The thing is that my average room temp is around mid/high 80s F (say 84-88).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an acceptable temp for aging a RIS? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T18:51:23.857" Title="What is the highest temp. to age a Russian imperial stout?" Tags="|aging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12417" CreationDate="2014-06-02T15:41:47.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's way too high a temp for good results.  You could keep it there for a short period without suffering terrible results, but the higher the temp the faster the beer will stale.  I wouldn't leave it at that temp for more than a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T15:41:47.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12417" CreationDate="2014-06-02T18:51:23.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a beer that tastes on the aged side, then maybe it would be ok. The bigger beers tend to fare better with higher temperatures - the darker malts act as anti-oxidants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a RIS that has been standing at around 70&amp;deg;F/21&amp;deg;C for 6 months. It's definitely changed without question - not as fresh as it was, but also still a pleasant beer since the flavors blend together better now, but one keg has definitely picked up a hint of sherry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the RIS will stand up to more &quot;abuse&quot; at higher temperatures, there is a limit, and 3-4 months at 84-88F is probably pushing it - it's the equivalent of ca. a year's aging at 70F, or 3 years at 50F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any alternative, cooler storage, I would go for that. Otherwise look for ways to reduce the time at that higher temp to the minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T18:51:23.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12392" CreationDate="2014-06-03T08:13:12.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar problem in one of my batches. Pouring the bottle resulted in nearly 100% foam and no beer. Since it only affected the one bottle out of 15 so far, I am certain this was due to an unclean bottle, even though I sanitize them all the same.. In addition to this, this one bottle also tasted different then all the others, even though it did not seem a &quot;wrong&quot; taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6747" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T08:13:12.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12421" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12422" CreationDate="2014-06-03T08:22:26.467" Score="1" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a honey ale recently which resulted in a beer with a rather bitter/sour(?) taste instead of the honey finish I was hoping for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I added the honey just before the yeast I was wondering if it could be that all the sugar in the honey actually got processed by the yeast leaving only the other parts in the beer thus resulting in the described flavour or at least for the &quot;sour&quot; part. Since I never made this recipe without honey before, I do not know exactly how it tastes without honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be the reason? To avoid this, I guess I'd have to add the honey later? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6747" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T11:21:21.373" Title="Could honey be the reason for a rather bitter beer" Tags="|taste|honey|sour|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12421" CreationDate="2014-06-03T11:21:21.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made pure honey meads that have fermented out completely and they were initially quite bitter. I think you are right - it's the other components of the honey - waxes etc.. - that create a bitter taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding the honey later will not really help. Any yeast still left in the beer will continue to ferment out the honey, with the risk of bottle bombs or over-carbonated beer if this is after packaging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a mead, you have the option of using more honey, pushing the yeast past their level of alcohol tolerance, so a certain amount of honey remains unfermented. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't easily do this with a beer unless you plan to make a 13+% beer. Another option is to use a light crystal malt such as Carapils or a C20. This will lend some sweetness to the final beer that is not fermentable. Even when there is unfermented honey in the beverage, the taste isn't really of honey - the taste is mainly sweet - you recognise &quot;honey&quot; from the aroma. By using a crystal you maintain some sweetness, plus you still have the aroma from the fermented honey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T11:21:21.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-04T15:31:37.137" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is anyone aware of wine making clubs in the greater Washington, DC area?  I'd prefer Maryland, but beggars can't be choosers.  I've checked Winemaker Magazine's list of clubs, but no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6098" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-06-18T04:33:31.597" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T17:26:13.990" Title="Winemaking Clubs in Greater DC area" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12423" CreationDate="2014-06-04T18:59:21.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any strictly wine making clubs but I know I've talked to some people who make wine, cider, mead and a lot of other things that aren't beer at some of the local homebrewing clubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend checking out &lt;a href=&quot;http://brew.burp.org/default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BURP&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.dchomebrewers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DC Homebrewers Club&lt;/a&gt;. Both clubs are filled with lots of fantastic people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6866" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T18:59:21.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12431" CreationDate="2014-06-06T17:08:37.200" Score="0" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any difference in conditioning beer in a force carbonated keg vs a secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is under the assumption that both the keg and secondary hold ales and are sitting at about room temperature. Also both have been filled straight from a primary fermenter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T11:53:27.580" Title="Conditioning kegged carbonated beer" Tags="|kegging|secondary-fermentation|conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12430" CreationDate="2014-06-06T17:15:29.507" Score="1" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;A question about utilisation calculations and hop replacements...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the scenario... I've got a basic grain bill and I want to vary the hops each time I create the beer. Obviously, different hops mean different alpha/beta/essential oils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's also say, for the sake of argument, that my hop additions would go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bittering / Target / 20g / 12.0% AA / 60 mins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1st addition / Target / 20g / 12.0% AA / 20 mins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2nd addition / Target / 20g / 12.0% AA / 5 mins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's say I wanted to change all of these additions to, say, Simcoe at 14.0% but I don't want the beer to be any more or less bitter or flavoursome... just to carry a different hop profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my bittering hops what I would generally do is bang out a quick calculation like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20g x 12% AA = 240&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then 240 / 14% = about 17g Simcoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether this is actually the correct way to do it, I'm not entirely sure but so far it has worked for me. However, when it comes to the later additions where we're dealing with comparitively little bittering potential from the hops and much more flavour/aroma I'm sure this calculation wouldn't hold up and I might be inadvertently changing the flavour profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been doing it this way up until now but I want to start working with very low AA hops like Crystal and my usual calculation I'm sure will upset the flavour balance significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would other people deal with this calculation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T19:54:10.930" Title="Calculating hop replacement weights for different boil times" Tags="|hops|hop-utilization|alpha-acids|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12428" CreationDate="2014-06-06T17:50:40.963" Score="5" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make sense of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/393947/oatmeal-stout-biab-quotbreakfast-stoutquot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stout recipe&lt;/a&gt; and one of the ingredient is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.00 Coffee Espresso Shot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Espresso#Size&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;according to Wiki&lt;/a&gt;, one espresso shot is 25ml. Would this be the right amount for a 23L batch size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The size can be a single, double, or triple, which corresponds roughly&#xA;  to a 0.8, 1.7, and 2.5 US fluid ounce (approximately 25, 50 or 75 mL)&#xA;  standard (normale) shot, and use a proportional amount of ground&#xA;  coffee, roughly 7, 14, and 21 grams&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3507" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-06-07T11:35:20.573" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T23:11:06.097" Title="Espresso Shot (size)" Tags="|ingredients|recipe|brewing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12427" CreationDate="2014-06-06T18:21:04.443" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see any way you could know for certain.  IMO, the best way to add flavoring to beer is by taste.  Wait until the beer is fermented and pour 4 2 oz. samples.  Dose each with a different, measured amount of espresso and taste to determine which you like best.  Then scale that amount up to your 23L batch size.  I do this with every flavoring I try and it's a very easy, effective and accurate way to determine how much to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T18:21:04.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12426" CreationDate="2014-06-06T19:12:34.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the IBU calculator at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/ibu-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend&lt;/a&gt;, it's quite quick and nifty. It also helps me as I have a different boil gravity than fermenter gravity and this effects the impact that the hops has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does however not deal with anything but alpha acids, the aroma I would believe is rather more difficult/unfeasible to calculate to satisfaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6766" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T19:12:34.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12426" CreationDate="2014-06-06T19:54:10.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get so little bittering from hops added at 15 min. or less that I keep those amounts constant.  Obviously, the IBU won't be identical, but it's close enough that you won't really notice the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T19:54:10.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12425" CreationDate="2014-06-06T20:00:05.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there really isn't.  I guess I have to enter more to be able to post this, but there's really nothing more to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T20:00:05.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1658" CreationDate="2014-06-08T04:59:09.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had some excellent beer, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://lostabbey.com/beer/judgement-day/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lost Abbey Judgement Day&lt;/a&gt; that used raisins or prunes in secondary, which give a very rich, caramel flavor that compliments big malty high alcohol and aged styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T04:59:09.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12425" CreationDate="2014-06-08T11:53:27.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't condition in a secondary. Secondary fermentation, clearing, lagering all happen in an non-pressurized environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conditioning is the process of allowing natural fermentation processes to carbonate a beer, usually through the additions of sugars prior to putting the beer in a closed environment (keg/bottle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to condition you have to either keg/bottle before fermentation is complete (a rather exact science) or you have to add sugars for the yeast to consume so that it can create the CO2 that you require. Assuming you add table sugar, this will increase your ABV and dryness of the beer, but it is a very small amount on normal beers. I am not sure if conditioning to 3 volumes (certain Belgian styles) will affect the taste of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other difference is that you can call a conditioned ale a &quot;Real Ale&quot;, but not a forced carbonated beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T11:53:27.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12413" CreationDate="2014-06-09T01:28:46.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, adding lactose will add sweetness and overall silkier/creamier mouthfeel. Perhaps you are confusing the name with &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2011/11/03/sweet-stout-and-milk-stout-recipes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;milk stouts, or &quot;cream&quot; stouts&lt;/a&gt; which do use lactose to achieve this creamy mouthfeel. Milk stouts fall into a different category of BJCP, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style13.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;#13B&lt;/a&gt;, rather than &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style06.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;#6 for cream ales&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2011/11/03/sweet-stout-and-milk-stout-recipes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; gives you a good idea of the flavour and usage of lactose in milk stouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if you want to brew to style, you shouldn't use lactose in cream ales because it works against the taste and overall mouthfeel (contrary to the name). However, if you don't care to brew to style, go for it and see what your experiment produces!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2264" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T01:28:46.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12427" CreationDate="2014-06-09T06:20:31.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, IMHO, a shot of espresso is 1 fluid oz.  I would think this significantly too little espresso for 5g unless you are looking for a very delicate flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally about espresso: In addition to D.C.'s sensible answer, I want to add that you can do whatever you want with coffee/espresso and it will probably work out at least ok.  I have added espresso to all phases of brewing from wort to primary fermentation to secondary to bottling in all forms from grounds to shots to cold toddies.  The advantage of after fermentation is control of flavor.  The advantage of shots is no grounds.  The advantage of just chucking in a 1 lb of espresso while boiling the wort is ease (for the record, that flavor will not be 'delicate' but coffee drinkers will probably like it).  About the only thing you can do wrong is leave your bottles of coffee stout aging.  The coffee does not, in my experience, improve with time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T06:20:31.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12427" CreationDate="2014-06-09T22:41:28.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;25ml is incredibly small in proportion to 23L. Imagine pouring an espresso shot into 1 liter of your favorite stout (think 2 full pints). You would definitely taste that, and it would probably be described as a bold coffee flavor, but probably not even overbearing. Now imagine that flavor but 23 times weaker. It would be subtle or gone entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T22:41:28.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12427" CreationDate="2014-06-09T23:05:21.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my last espresso stout I was unsure of how much to use.  I opted to add varying levels, from about 1/3 of a shot per 12oz bottle up to a full shot per bottle.  1/3 of a shot was noticeable but mild and a full shot was quite pronounced but still not overwhelming.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given there's a lot of variables (the flavor and strength of both the beer and coffee) I'd suggest you try the same.  If you're adding at at bottling time (I did) then you can take a small sample of your finished beer and experiment with what concentration you'd prefer, or as I did you can make several sub-batches of varying strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T23:11:06.097" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T23:11:06.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12441" CreationDate="2014-06-10T20:38:09.957" Score="2" ViewCount="2529" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first brew! I forgot to add yeast and put it in a day later. #embarrassing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a SG reading after 5 days: 1.018 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took another reading today, 7 days in, and it's only dropped to 1.016. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The packet said 4 to 6 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I do anything (stir?), or just wait? Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6869" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T14:04:24.853" Title="first stage beer seems slow (stopped?)" Tags="|beer|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12440" CreationDate="2014-06-11T02:34:32.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you didn't take an original gravity reading (OG) then its tough to say if it's fermented.  Did it seem active at all (did it have a foamy krausen on top, or could you see the wort slowly churning 24-48 hrs after pitching the yeast)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give it a while longer and keep taking readings every couple days until they stay the same for 3 or 4 days.  Any drop in the gravity indicates the yeast are active.  When it's stopped try a taste, if it's excessively sweet then the fermentation has certainly stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is stuck you can try gently rocking the fermenter to stir the yeast back up, and keeping it on the warmer end of the yeast's preferred temperature.  If it still doesn't go you can pitch additional yeast (consider using a different strain, perhaps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There no harm in waiting on it for a bit; as long as you can get it to finish without getting infected it will be beer.  Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2014-06-11T14:04:24.853" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T14:04:24.853" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-11T14:20:22.900" Score="2" ViewCount="4086" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to remove a faint disinfectant smell from my pressure barrel as its tainted the smell of my lager. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried white vinegar, chlorine my usual Sanitiser and just hit water but a faint smell is still there. The barrel is plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7885" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T13:48:05.957" Title="Remove smell from barrel" Tags="|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12392" CreationDate="2014-06-11T21:02:01.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Others have mentioned over-carbonation.  If that turns out to be the case (i.e. the beer is fine other than very carbonated) you can bleed off the excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Refrigerate the beer for at least 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using a bottle opener carefully open the cap just enough to allow the CO2 to begin escaping.  You should be able to open it just enough to allow CO2 out without it foaming.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once the pressue has escaped fully remove the caps and re-cap with freshly sterilized caps&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try it with one bottle first.  If bleeding the pressure once doesn't lower the carbonation enough then after step 2 you can use your capper to re-seal the bottle, put it back in the fridge for a few more hours, then bleed more pressure off again (sometimes it takes several rounds to lower it to where you want it).  Recap with a new cap in the end to make sure you've got a good seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2014-06-11T21:08:27.557" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T21:08:27.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12442" CreationDate="2014-06-12T12:08:34.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A long soak with a baking soda solution has worked for me in the past.  I don't know what your measurements are, but I usually go of 1/3 to 1/2 cup into 6 gallons of hot water.  Soak overnight, rinse and then another hot soak with my standard cleaner PBW (powdered brewery wash).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T12:08:34.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-12T16:11:13.210" Score="2" ViewCount="687" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think most people will agree that the 8-ball tastes like no other beer. Any conjectures on how exactly it is prepared to make it taste that bad? I am actually really curious on what the ingredient make up is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not just malt liquor, OE really is in a class of its own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found a recipe &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/want-make-olde-english-800-clone-52663/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;here&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; but there is no way that its going to come out like OE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T16:11:13.210" Title="Why does Olde English 800 taste so bad?" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-06-12T18:14:31.300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11888" CreationDate="2014-06-12T16:43:40.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 5 pound CO2 tank has always sat at about just under 1000 PSI for the reading on the tank pressure until it gets to almost empty.  That's at a room temp in the 70's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you had that 500 to 400 PSI drop, over how much time was that and also, did you do the shaking the keg method to quickly force carbonate during that time or did you just turn on gas at 20psi on new full (uncarbonated) keg and leave it sit undisturbed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shaking the keg method will move enough CO2 to change the temp of the tank and that could definitely create a quick drop in pressure reading of the tank, but then once you stop shaking and leave sit long enough for the tank to return to room temp, that pressure reading drop from the tank changing temp should go back to what it was at room temp.  If you just hooked it up and did no shaking and are letting it absorb the co2 just sitting, then I don't think gas will flow fast enough to change the tank temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soapy water worked up to a foam is a great way to check for leaks.  But what I usually do first, is pressurize the system - i.e. have everything hooked up to keg and valves open through the lines to the keg - then once it looks to be holding a constant pressure, I completely close the rotating valve that is directly on the CO2 tank (i.e. valve PRIOR to gas hitting the tank regulator) and don't close any other valves.  Then you can quickly see if your system is leaking pressure out anywhere because all your pressure gauges will drop to 0 over a short time if it is (5 minutes if bad leak - few hours or half day max if slow leak).  If you don't lose any pressure on the gauges for a day with that main tank valve closed (and of course no serving of beer), then you can be pretty sure you're completely leak free.  Of course if the beer is still carbonating and hasn't reach carbonation equilibrium, those pressure gauges will drop down maybe even to 0 as the beer in the keg is continuing to absorb co2 with that main tank valve closed.  But once you get some practice with it, you can tell the difference in time between an actual leak and the beer just continuing to absorb co2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say 5-7 five gallon kegs on one full 5 pound CO2 tank is maybe even on the low side of what I get.  Definitely can force carbonate AND server that many if no leaks and not blowing gas off for anything else.  (I tend to use CO2 a lot -- I prefill my empty kegs with CO2 before transferring the beer to the keg to reduce oxidation and remove any outside air - CO2 is heavier than plain air so it will form a nice blanket of co2 in the bottom of the keg.  I also fill any other vessel with co2 prior to transferring beer to it if I want o2 free transfer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7889" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T16:43:40.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12442" CreationDate="2014-06-13T19:48:34.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For non-metal containers I use bleach. Cheaper and works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 60 ml of bleach per 20 Liters of water (2 oz per 5 gallons), completely fill the vessel, cover it, ensures that the lid has contact with the solution, and I leave it rests for 3 nights (72 hours). I usually leave it there for 1 or 2 weeks until the next use, if I don't need the vessels before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you will use the vessel, just discard the solution (you can reuse the solution for others sanitizing/cleaning purposes in your home, like your toilet, sink, etc). Let the vessel dry, and it is cleaned, odorless, and sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I guess that 24 hours can be enough but I never needed my vessels before 2 or 3 days, so I let them there until the next use).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IMPORTANT: Never use the vessel with residues of bleach, ensure it is completely dry, or rinsed.&lt;/strong&gt; Chlorine residues will make off-flavors in your beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T19:48:34.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12450" CreationDate="2014-06-14T01:32:53.397" Score="3" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 1L bottles with flip tops, the beer carbonates fine but after drinking half of it and putting it away for a few days (1L is too much to drink for me) it loses carbonation completely. Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried leaving them outside the fridge but it ends up flat. Is there no way to retain the carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7892" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T23:42:38.283" Title="1 Litre bottles losing carbonation after opening" Tags="|beer|carbonation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-14T07:30:00.890" Score="-1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sir,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want information with reference to the subject cited above.&#xA;What are the essential minerals to be added to water after purification and Reverse osmosis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When are the minerals to be added -after or before Ozonisation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the methods and procedure and name of chemical/natural compounds which carry the essential minerals are to be added?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanking you very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yours sincerely, MVprasad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7893" LastEditorUserId="1375" LastEditDate="2015-10-28T05:04:38.887" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T05:04:38.887" Title="What are essential minerals to added to water which is filtered through Reverse Osmosis, when to be added whether after or before Ozonisation" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12448" CreationDate="2014-06-14T11:43:06.303" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is to be expected and perfectly normal - when you have a half filled container of beer, the carbon dioxide that's dissolved in the beer will come out of the beer to fill the space available, so you have less carbon dioxide in the beer, and less fizz. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try keeping the half-filled bottles cool which will retain more carbon dioxide in the beer. Also drinking them sooner will help, since it does take some time for the carbonation to come out of the beer. Finally, if you really don't drink more than 500ml at once, then consider switching to 500ml bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-06-14T11:43:06.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12449" CreationDate="2014-06-15T06:16:10.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If what you are asking is what minerals you need to keep your yeast healthy then: &quot;minerals such as potassium, iron, copper, zinc, phosphorous, magnesium, and calcium.&quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/item/950-keeping-your-yeast-healthy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;[1]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to add the nutrients needed for the yeast is to add a special mix that you can buy from any homebrew shop such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_productdetail.cfm?ProductID=15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast Nutrient Blend&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find your local shop and ask for yeast nutrient is my advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7896" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T06:16:10.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10486" CreationDate="2014-06-15T06:28:56.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say the easiest thing is to cut a hole in the side of the keg and install the heater there. Then fasten it so there is no leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7896" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T06:28:56.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12004" CreationDate="2014-06-15T06:49:46.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not let your enzymes get above 60 degrees Celcius. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scribd.com/doc/44938151/The-Effectiveness-of-Beano-as-an-Enzyme&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; the Beano enzyme works best at 40 degrees Celcius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should add your enzymes on cooldown of the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7896" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T06:49:46.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12455" CreationDate="2014-06-16T15:43:20.277" Score="1" ViewCount="1689" Body="&lt;p&gt;i'm looking to plant my own hops in my yard (yes i know i'm late. researching for next year). however, i'm trying to figure out roughly how many say cascade rhizomes i would need to make this worth my effort. meaning, if i get 5-8 rhizomes, would that yield enough to make a typical homebrew? i understand the first year or so has a low yield which is ok. at this point, getting ideas and numbers together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7897" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T16:40:29.687" Title="average hop yields" Tags="|beer|hops|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12454" CreationDate="2014-06-16T16:18:21.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If growing conditions are optimal you'll get plenty of hops.  I have 3 varieties growing and my Fuggles is the most dominant.  2nd year I had close to 2 lbs dried and packaged off a single rhizome so 5-8 rhizomes will get you plenty of picking opportunities.  I've read on average you can expect a healthy rhizome will produce 1.5 to 2 lbs in a good season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2436" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T16:18:21.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12454" CreationDate="2014-06-16T16:40:29.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will depend on the variety and your weather.  I live in the middle of prime hop growing country.  I have one Cascade plant that's about 12 years old now.  I get anywhere from 20-27 lb. of wet hops each year from it.  Enough that it's a hassle to pick, dry, and vacuum package them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T16:40:29.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10486" CreationDate="2014-06-17T05:05:41.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you would have to make that adapter yourself. Water heater threads are usually NPS or standard threads where your SS fittings are NPT Pipe threads. Your best bet is to weld the correct bung or adapter into the keg side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen 120V 1400+W immersion heaters that use o-ring style seals but will not heat as well as 220v elements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another choice that I have seen in practice is an Instant Hot water heater like you would see under a kitchen sink. They easily hit Mash temps and can fill 10 gals. Just an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps,&#xA;Pat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7898" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T05:05:41.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12448" CreationDate="2014-06-17T15:06:18.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it's normal and although a lower temperature will keep more 'fizz' in the beer it will still lose most of it. The carbon dioxide that was forced to dissolve into the beer when it was sealed will be able to return to being a gas when the bottle is half empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you could try various things to avoid losing the carbonation once opened the best thing to do is to move to using smaller bottles which you will consume in one sitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7900" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T15:06:18.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12448" CreationDate="2014-06-17T15:33:46.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;mdma and n1ak are correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you are really adamant on using 1 liter bottles then you can &lt;b&gt;TRY&lt;/b&gt; to add table sugar or carbonation drops. It will make your beer sweeter, but there is a small chance that your beer will be &lt;b&gt;LESS&lt;/b&gt; flat, as opposed to completely flat. I would not recommend this, but it seems like a good experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To echo mdma and n1ak: Use smaller bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or drink more. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T15:33:46.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12343" CreationDate="2014-06-17T19:31:30.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is it better to use organic ginger&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That depends on a lot of factors but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.organic-center.org/reportfiles/Taste2Pager.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;organic produce&lt;/a&gt; seems to have better taste than conventional produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to what kind of sugar it entirely depends on what color you want the liquid to have and the taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://nourishedkitchen.com/ginger-bug/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ginger bug recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Break off a knob from your hand of ginger, peel away its papery skin and grate it until you have 2 heaping tablespoons. Place the grated ginger in a small jar, whisk in 2 tablespoons unrefined cane sugar and 2 tablespoons filtered water. Cover the jar loosely and allow it to ferment in a warm spot in your kitchen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Every day for at least 5 days, mix an additional 2 tablespoons grated ginger, 2 tablespoons sugar and 2 tablespoons water into your jar. The ginger will begin to foam and bubble at its top, and will take on the yeasty fragrance of beer. After 5 days, it is ready to use. You can also store it in the refrigerator, and feed it 2 tablespoons grated ginger, 2 tablespoons sugar and 2 tablespoons water once a week.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;To use the ginger bug to make homemade sodas, prepare 1 quart of herbal tea sweetened with a caloric sweetener like sugar (or substitute 1 scoop Body Ecology's Ecobloom). Strain off 1/4 cup of the ginger bug's liquid and whisk it into the sweetened tea. Replace the 1/4 cup ginger bug you've removed with 1/4 cup sugar dissolved into 1/4 cup water. Transfer the sweetened tea and ginger bug to flip-top bottles (available here), and allow it to ferment at room temperature for 3 days. Transfer to the fridge or drink straight away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to ferment it for making root beer. You just need to add more water and sugar after you've made your initial ginger bug.&#xA;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://homedistiller.org/sugar/wash-sugar/yield&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;homedistiller&lt;/a&gt; for how much sugar you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To make 25L of wash at 5% alcohol use 2.125kg of sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7896" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T19:31:30.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12442" CreationDate="2014-06-17T23:30:27.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Properly diluted bleach is cool but take great care not to use scented bleach, or you'll be worse off than when you started.  I've also swung between an acid and basic to clean things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, extended chlorine baths can wreak havoc on stainless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3510" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T23:30:27.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-18T01:45:55.877" Score="3" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there's a way to make American 2-row resemble the graininess of pilsner. I've taken 2-row and added some biscuit malt or pale ale malt to nudge my 2-row a bit closer to Marris Otter. Is there a similar trick to approximate pilsner? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7902" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T16:24:29.540" Title="Make American 2-row taste like Pilsen" Tags="|grain|substitution|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12462" CreationDate="2014-06-18T05:49:35.340" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is this guy on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/pilsner-vs-2-row-86840/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;homebrewtalk&lt;/a&gt; which describes the difference very good&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to Pilsner, regular 2-row tastes pretty bland. 2-Row is basically flavor neutral, like Budweiser or something... Pilsener has a more malty flavor like say Becks, or Stella ??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard to describe, but taste a good European or Chezh Pilsener and the malt you're tasting is Pilsener Malt. Now taste some non-craft American beer and you're most likely tasting 2-row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flowers and spice are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://drinks.seriouseats.com/2011/06/homebrewing-guide-to-essential-hop-varities-all-about-noble-hops.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hop flavors&lt;/a&gt; we're looking for in a pilsner so adding that would nudge it in the pilsner direction. You can also try a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/help-picking-right-pilsner-yeast-strain-151320/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;different yeast&lt;/a&gt; which is specifig for pilsner e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=34&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Czech Pils yeast&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try adding some &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mash_ingredients#Pilsner_malt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pilsner malt&lt;/a&gt; in to the mix which is quite pale and strongly flavored. It is also known as &amp;quot;lager malt&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7896" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T05:49:35.340" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12442" CreationDate="2014-06-18T13:48:05.957" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second what @brewchez said. We have used baking soda and hot water every time after brewing several hoppy IPAs, saisons, belgians, etc. A good soaking and rinse gets rid of the smell in the fermenter and in kegs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7899" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T13:48:05.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12462" CreationDate="2014-06-18T16:24:29.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only real difference between pale and pils malt is about 1L of color.  The flavor is actually pretty similar.  The best thing to do is to experiment with different pale malts to see if on brand is closer to what you want.  In terms of what you've got right now, an all pale malt mash will taste remarkably similar to an all pils malt mash.  I've done the same beer with both and it's nearly impossible to tell the difference.  Using specialty grains in either will hide any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T16:24:29.540" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12470" CreationDate="2014-06-19T07:42:44.013" Score="2" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a Crankandstein 2S grain mill. It is currently being &quot;assembled&quot; and I am considering making some silly beers with grains around the house; like corn and sorghum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can corn damage a grain mill? The mill looks really strong, but I would rather make sure beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I test if a grain might damage a mill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T19:44:07.763" Title="Can I damage a grain mill by milling corn or sorghum?" Tags="|grain|mill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12468" CreationDate="2014-06-20T20:43:58.153" Score="1" ViewCount="1986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I experienced few times a gross layer of foam when fermentation finishes. But the beer was fine, no symptoms of contamination neither off-flavors. I never measure the depth of foam but it can have about 2 to 3 cm (among 1 inch). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can cause this ?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is that explanation possible?&lt;/strong&gt; : One of the explanations I found around the internet is that this foam is composed by dead yeasts, died by &quot;hydration shock&quot; when it is directly spread over the wort instead of pure water. This is strange to me, because although I use dry yeast spread directly over wort (at equivalent temperature), I think it would be necessary lots and lots of dead yeasts which isn't all of them within yeast packet. So, they would need to reproduce and dead yeasts don't reproduce, so the explanation about the &quot;hydration shock&quot; is very strange, which makes me think that if the foam is composed by dead yeasts the yeasts died after reproduction and not when spread over the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2014-06-20T21:30:07.963" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T21:33:12.117" Title="Gross layer of foam at the end of fermentation and aging" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|wort|yeast-starters|foam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12467" CreationDate="2014-06-20T21:33:12.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get the same kraeusen when using liquid yeast - it's not from hydration shock. In fact, the dead yeast that don't survive hydration simply fall to the bottom of the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the kraeusen is the constant churning of the wort during active fermentation, which mixes proteins, tannins and hop-alpha acids to create the structure for the krausen. As the krausen forms, it naturally collects yeast on top also, since the yeast become trapped in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast are not necessarily dead, an during active fermentation are usually very much alive and highly viable. Brewers harvest yeast from the kraeusen - so-called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/content/yeast-storage-and-maintenance-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;top-cropping&lt;/a&gt; to obtain some very healthy and clean yeast from the fermenting beer. Once the yeast falls back to the bottom of the fermentor, it's mixed with dead yeast and trub, making it less than ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T21:33:12.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12466" CreationDate="2014-06-21T19:49:52.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would doubt it - the mill is made of steel, which I imagine is orders of magnitude more robust than any cereal you put through it. But if in doubt contact the manufacturer to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T19:49:52.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12473" CreationDate="2014-06-23T03:01:08.537" Score="3" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on brewing 2 beers this weekend. I want to make starters for both of them but I only have 1 stir plate. I do have 2 Erlenmeyer flasks. How would be the best way to go about making both starters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm brewing on Sunday, should I start the first one on Tuesday? Let it go for 2 days. Then put it in the refrigerator? Then start the second one of Thursday? Let it go for 2 days and then refrigerate it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then bring them both out on Sunday and let them sit out for a few hours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7914" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T03:11:47.267" Title="2 yeast starts with one stir plate" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12472" CreationDate="2014-06-23T03:11:47.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like a plan. When the starter is cool the yeast will sediment quicker so you can pour off the spent wort easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely take yeast out of the fridge on brewday, let it warm. If you have some additional sterile wort, then you can decant the spent wort and pitch the fresh wort as soon as the yeast has come up to room temp. Otherwise, if you have no sterile wort, then just wait until you're ready to pitch into the main brew and decant the spent wort before pitching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T03:11:47.267" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2014-06-24T03:25:10.870" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dark Belgian strong primary 90 days straight to bottle let sit for six months... wishing I'd done a double or triple batch! If everything was sanitized properly long ferments at controlled temps are great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7917" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T03:25:10.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12466" CreationDate="2014-06-25T19:44:07.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My attempt with my father-in-law's corn proved that the mill was incapable of damaging the corn.   I think it was probably due to the gap being too narrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to adjust your mill to crush the corn.   Also realize that a mill meant for brewing isn't going to make cornmeal or flour, but crushed/cracked grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T19:44:07.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-26T15:16:09.987" Score="2" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last month I made an IPA with some experimental grapefruit hops with 18% AA but the final product turned out with very low bitterness and low hopppy flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing in my head was that it could be because of the weak boil I had the day I brew it due to technical difficulties (208 F was my average boil temp.). The other thing a suspect could have messed with my bitterness is a larger than required pre-boil wort volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hop schedule was:&#xA;1 oz @60 min&#xA;0.5 oz @30 min&#xA;0.5 oz @10 min&#xA;0.5 oz @5 min&#xA;0.5 oz @flame out&#xA;0.65 oz Dry Hop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T17:03:42.873" Title="Relation Between Bitterness And Boil Strength" Tags="|boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12476" CreationDate="2014-06-26T17:03:42.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A difference of a few degrees (208 vs 212) is not very significant from an isomerization perspective.  Studies have shown that isomerization continues to occur in whirlpools at or below 200 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that could have affected utilization:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wort strength - higher gravities will lower utilization&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You mentioned extra pre-boil volume - as long as you hit post-boil numbers from your recipe that shouldn't affect anything, but having extra post-boil volume would cause lower bitterness and gravity than the recipe indicates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hops could have been mislabeled - were they from a reputable supplier?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are you comparing the beer to to determine that bitterness and hop flavor are low?  Those hop amounts are lower than I would normally use in an IPA where I was shooting for excessive hop character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2202" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T17:03:42.873" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-27T13:15:09.890" Score="1" ViewCount="1882" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have city water at my house which our Regional Water Authority states has a Hardness of 112.10 mg/l.  I would like to get this down by 62 points, but not sure what the best way to do this without bittering the water and adding salts to give the beer an off flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am newish all grain brewer and this is for a double IPA recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T01:46:41.757" Title="Softening Hard Water" Tags="|techniques|all-grain|water|gypsum|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12478" CreationDate="2014-06-27T14:56:08.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hardness is only one component of water.  You need to look at the full analysis to see what's causing it in order to know what to do about it.  Then, use a water spreadsheet (I recommend Bru'nwater &lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&lt;/a&gt;) to calculate how to correct for it.  Your fears about water additions are unfounded.  If done correctly, no off flavors will be produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T14:56:08.790" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10193" CreationDate="2014-06-28T15:47:46.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation temperature - Keep it constant.  Encourage the properties you want to accentuate with the yeast to complement the style.  Monitor the results, that way if you think the recipie is worth trying again, make the relevant adjustments, like you would with the recipie.  Small temp variations have a great impact on results.  Phenolic yeasts should be free to rise and fall on their own account preferably within a predictable/constant ambient temp.  Too low, clear beer, what about character then?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7924" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T15:47:46.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11226" CreationDate="2014-06-29T11:18:24.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other approach is to cold steep the dark malts over night and add the results to the top of the mash just before you start sparging. For that much black patent I'd suggest a couple of pints of cold water for the steep, and ditch the roasted barley. Remember you're only interested in the colour from the black malts, not the roasty flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3147" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T11:18:24.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-29T15:11:57.230" Score="3" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stirred what I thought was a stalled yeast and I think I stirred too hard.  What are the down falls of introducing oxygen after the fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7929" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T15:14:50.103" Title="Stalled Yeast Stirred" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12482" CreationDate="2014-06-29T15:14:50.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the potential for oxidized beer.  It may not happen, or if it does it may not be too bad.  But the best thing to do would be to drink the beer soon, before potential oxidation has a chance to get worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T15:14:50.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-29T17:27:30.730" Score="4" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to increase my quantity of GBP to share with a friend. I've brewed a few batches of ginger beer, but I always end up with the same amount or slightly less GBP than I started with. What needs to be done to come out with more GBP after a batch, or how can I just increase my quantity of GBP? Leave it in a jar full of sugar and ginger for n days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7930" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T13:41:02.670" Title="How to increase quantity of Ginger Beer Plant" Tags="|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9579" CreationDate="2014-06-30T15:07:06.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bleach causes pit-rusting on stainless steel, which is a perfect environment to harbour beerstone.  Do not use bleach on stainless steel when brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7933" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T15:07:06.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-30T20:03:01.990" Score="1" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just finished 2 - 5 gallon batches yesterday and I go to check on them today and my freezer stopped cooling. I can hear water running inside the walls but it doesn't get cool. It's about 75 F inside the freezer currently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to cool the inside down temporarily? I would like to leave them in the freezer since it's dark and the temperature would be stable but I might have to remove them if I can't get it cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7914" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T14:13:30.597" Title="Freezer stopped working while fermenting" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12486" CreationDate="2014-07-01T11:11:47.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start freezing 2L bottles of water.  Depending on the size of your fermentation freezer and the external ambient temp, you might be able to amble through using those and treating it like one really big beach cooler.&#xA;Other than that the compressor or the coolant lines need replacing/repair; which normally isn't done the whole unit is replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T11:11:47.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12478" CreationDate="2014-07-01T11:14:37.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To lower the concentration of anything in water you need to simply add RO or distilled water. TO get from 112 to 62 you would be diluting the water basically in half with RO water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But doing this is pointless unless you understand and know what the water chemistry is that you are really targeting.  Diluting hard water to make it softer won't increase the hop bitterness any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T11:14:37.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12486" CreationDate="2014-07-01T14:13:30.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get hold of frozen 2 liter bottles (I actually use 1 liter bottles), then those are great, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, run to the store and get bags of ice. Leave the ice in the bag. Yes, there will be condensation, water, etc, but you will get the freezer chilled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not place the frozen items against the fermentor(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Do not add massive amounts of frozen objects, unless you will be monitoring the temp closely. You do not want to let the yeast go to sleep or go into shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chest freezer should hold the temp for a long time, so you should be safe with a small amount of frozen/cold items. A non-chest freezer will lose the chill every time the door is opened, to bear that in mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T14:13:30.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6146" CreationDate="2014-07-01T16:49:14.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't put anything on the grommet on your fermented.  The&#xA;fermentation chamber has a positive pressure of CO2 anyway, so you&#xA;won't get nasties in there.  I would, however, fill the airlock with&#xA;StarSan (or even cheap vodka) instead of water.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the post brew cleaning, just use OxyClean (or the&#xA;genericequivalent).  Add some water to your kettle, dump a scoop of&#xA;OxyClean in and bring it to about 150 degrees (F) and drain it&#xA;through your valve.  You'll still have some in the bottom of the&#xA;kettle so scrub it with a Scotch-Brite pad.  Rinse everything well&#xA;with water.  You shouldn't have to worry about sanitizing your kettle because everything going in is getting boiled.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your pitching temp is fine.  You didn't mention whether you&#xA;    rehydrated your yeast or not.  If you're using dry yeast, you should&#xA;    always rehydrate it in luke warm water.  You should do this even if&#xA;    you're making bread.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As far as siphoning goes, by far the most effective technique for&#xA;    getting beer from a fermenter (short of a valve on the bottom) is&#xA;    with an auto-siphon.  There are other methonds, but none will make&#xA;    you as happy as one pump on the auto-siphon and have a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T16:49:14.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-01T18:28:29.357" Score="0" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;At present I do not really want to boil up any grains so I thought some Coopers Malt Extract which is unhopped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a step up from a kit so I can add my own hops without having to boil grains? I'm happy with boiling the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7885" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T18:42:48.530" Title="Extract brewing with Coopers LME" Tags="|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12491" CreationDate="2014-07-01T18:42:48.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes: you can add your own hops while boiling malt extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not really a &quot;step up&quot; or a &quot;step down&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, FTR, you almost never &quot;boil&quot; grain … you can either steep it or mash it, but it should not be boiled (unless you're talking about decoction mashing, but that's not what you're talking about).)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T18:42:48.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-01T21:30:16.443" Score="1" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night i had my first go at making 10 litres of home brew cider from the NZ Mad Millie's kit. It told me to store between 18 degrees and 28 degrees so I out it in my spare room. I woke up this morning and it had dropped to 12 degrees. Has this wrecked the fermentation progress, and will it still be ok??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7935" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T13:20:14.330" Title="Is my cider ruined after the first day?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-01T21:46:39.217" Score="1" ViewCount="4760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing ginger beer with raw cane sugar and have always found the short window between when the mixture becomes recognizable as ginger beer and when it turns into face-melting acid is quite enjoyable. I was just wondering though, does the type of sugar have an impact on that window? If I switched to a highly processed table sugar, would that result in a more or less acidic brew? I never buy white sugar and don't want to waste a brew, so if anyone knows, please share your experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using real ginger beer plant (a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast) as my fermentation agent&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7930" LastEditorUserId="7930" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T18:34:37.533" LastActivityDate="2018-09-22T18:45:36.183" Title="What effects do different types of sugar have on the flavour of ginger beer?" Tags="|sugar|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12516" CreationDate="2014-07-02T01:17:16.973" Score="1" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a brand new ale pail just recently and I wasn't able to remove the discoloring left on the inside despite how much I scrubbed. Is this normal/will it affect the flavor of future brews?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6857" LastEditorUserId="6857" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T15:53:17.477" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T06:42:05.173" Title="Is it normal for my fermenting ale pails to be discolored?" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12495" CreationDate="2014-07-02T15:05:57.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't scrub plastic - it will scratch it, which leaves small spaces for micro-organisms to grow, which are subsequently even harder to clean away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, get a cleaner such as PBW or Oxiclean (I personally prefer PBW since it can be reused - Oxiclean loses potency once the oxygen has been released.) You can fill the pail with the made up PBW (4g/liter, ca 3oz/5 gallons) and leave this to soak for half an hour. It will pull of any residue and possibly discoloration also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't buy the pail from a reputable homebrew store, it would be wise to check the plastic mark on the bucket and check with the manufacturer if it is food safe. I've had the same buckets for years and they have not discolored. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T15:05:57.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12494" CreationDate="2014-07-02T17:36:36.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some ginger beers are fermented with a ginger bug or a combination of brewer's yeast and lactobacillus. Depending on what bacteria can be co-resident with the yeast, acidity can happen. Lacto should produce a &quot;lemony&quot; acidity. Kombucha and some wild fermentations can also have acetobacter, which produces a vinegar taste. The type of sugar won't have a large impact on flavor, especially in the presence of strong flavors from lacto or acetobacter or the ginger itself. In a &quot;normal&quot; fermentation (one where bacteria is kept at a minimum), sugar just ferments out and produces alcohol, but some sugars are harder to consume by some yeast, leaving some residual sweetness and flavor. Is the &quot;face-melting acid&quot; flavor like lemonade or like vinegar or something else? I suspect the acidity is due to fermentation characteristics (like bacteria) rather than the type of sugar used, but it's a bit hard to tell without more information. In a sour-style beers, yeasts (like Brett) or lacto or other sour bacteria will consume the remaining sugars after the primary yeast has finished, getting more sour over long periods of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;I was checking in on a sour mash this morning and a couple of things occurred to me. In a sour mash, you are attempting to control what bacteria grows by controlling the temperature. Acetobacter; the vinegar component in the Ginger Plant inoculation, grows best at around 77-86 F (25-30C). By lowering the fermentation temperature you could limit the bacteria production and favor the yeast. I sort of like doing the opposite with Kombucha (ferment with a brewbelt to keep it at 78+F to favor the acidity and ferment for longer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you are re-using your culture (GBP), the culture will change composition over time to favor the conditions, so the vinegar taste (acetobacter to yeast ratio) would be enhanced over generations by using higher fermentation temperatures. By the same token, using a lower fermentation temperature and harvesting, you will discourage the acetobacter population (raise the yeast to acetobacter ratio) in the culture over time, producing a more neutral flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2014-07-06T15:09:53.917" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T15:09:53.917" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12493" CreationDate="2014-07-02T17:39:41.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So assuming you just started this and this isn't in a carbonation/bottling part of the process... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No experience with your specific kit, but in general, a temperature drop like that won't ruin the fermentation. You just might need to kickstart it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your kit gives you a time frame in which the airlock should start bubbling, I'd wait 2 days past that. If you aren't getting fermentation bubbling by then, add a little more yeast and you should be back on track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T17:39:41.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12493" CreationDate="2014-07-02T17:39:55.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermenting too low will typically not hurt except that the yeast may go dormant and be troublesome to rouse or you just may not get the flavor characteristics from the yeast (esters, et al more common in higher fermentation temperatures). In any case, it should not &quot;ruin&quot; it, but may not produce all the desired flavor profiles or may need to be brought up to the correct temps get fermentation to complete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T17:39:55.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12193" CreationDate="2014-07-02T17:54:25.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to filter the beer is using finings. I don't know their impact on purines but they certainly clear beer fairly well. SuperKlear works well and you can watch the line between clear and cloudy move down the carboy over a couple of weeks. I also don't know if there is any kind of purine tester, but something like that may be useful to determine the effectiveness. I've also hear that shellfish can be bad for gout (and SuperKlear and isinglass use chitosan, a fish swim bladder collagen), so take that into account. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T17:54:25.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12493" CreationDate="2014-07-03T22:58:43.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. It can take longer to ferment, but in general the slower colder fermentation will result in a better tasting cider. I have used a few cider yeasts that ferment at a hotter temperature and they tend to give a bit of a sulphur taste. Now even if I use that particular yeast, one the fermentation has started to roll, I drop the temperature down to the lowest temperature that the yeast will work at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slow and cold = better flavor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7941" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T13:20:14.330" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T13:20:14.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3280" CreationDate="2014-07-04T00:59:57.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kinds of apples are you using? You could use additives to fix a batch but it's better to start out with a blend of apples good for making cider.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Newtown Pippin makes a good single variety cider. &#xA;My current batch on tap is a blend of  Newtown Pippin, Black Twig, and royal gala. I split the batch and fermented it with two different yeasts. &#xA;Half was wlp775 the other half was white labs sweet mead yeast. &#xA;The 775 is full of bite,a bit sharp for some (I like it)&#xA;The mead yeast is more well rounded. It's less sharp but has noticeable tannins that are missing in the other batch.&#xA;Te biggest impact is going to be the blend of apples  and the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7941" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T00:59:57.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12504" CreationDate="2014-07-04T09:37:48.410" Score="2" ViewCount="517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a recipe for an English I.P.A. which has 0.500 gr of Carapils but i have run out.Only grains that i have right now for substitute is Cara-Blonde and Crystal EBC 145-155. Will either of those two do or just skip Carapils and start the brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7943" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T02:36:43.837" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T16:02:15.290" Title="Substituting Carapils with left overs" Tags="|substitution|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12503" CreationDate="2014-07-04T10:11:00.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you'll be fine with the cara-blonde - that's only a few shades lighter than carapils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really depends upon what other crystal malts are in the brew. If there are other crystals around the 20-40L, then you may not need so much of the carablonde. Then you could use 250g of that, and 250g of base malt, to avoid it becoming too sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T10:11:00.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-04T13:30:27.993" Score="1" ViewCount="753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made a 1 gallon batch of Brooklyn Brew Shop's Canadian Red Ale.  As it was absolutely incredible, I want to make it again.  I have searched everywhere for a list of ingredients but have not found anything.  If anyone has an idea of what kinds of barley are used could you please share it.  Anything close will also work as I realize that we may not be able to find the exact blend.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one ingredient I know it uses is Cascade Hops&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7944" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T13:50:22.027" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T20:04:50.120" Title="Recipe for Canadian Red Ale" Tags="|beer|recipe|red-ale|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12509" CreationDate="2014-07-05T18:07:37.677" Score="2" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing an extract brew from NB called Waldo Lake Amber. I've never seen this in their instructions before. It is requesting that I add 1 oz of Cacade hops &quot;directly into the boil kettle&quot; immediate after the instruction to &quot;collect and heat 2.5 gallons of water.&quot; After this hop addition I am to add the specialty grain until the water reaches 170*, then at boiling I am to add the malt syrup as normal. Once it begins to boil again, the hop schedule starts at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has never asked me to add hops prior to the normal hop schedule. What is the purpose of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the hops get all over the specialty grain steeping bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-07-05T23:33:35.377" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T23:33:35.377" Title="What is the purpose of adding hops BEFORE the hop schedule?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12510" CreationDate="2014-07-05T18:21:01.403" Score="1" ViewCount="710" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I get a large internet delivery from NB of 4 extracts, I put everything into the fridge, hops and malt included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On brew day, If I were to just take the liquid malt out of the fridge and attempt to pour it into my kettle, it would take forever because the viscosity of the liquid at that point is so bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do instead is get a pot and run hot water into it continuously and put my liquid malt bottles inside of this to moderate the viscosity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if heating the liquid malt extract like this prior to the boil had any type of consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T06:53:25.250" Title="Consequences of Warming Liquid Malt Extract?" Tags="|extract|malt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12507" CreationDate="2014-07-05T18:34:09.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there are no consequences to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T18:34:09.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12506" CreationDate="2014-07-05T20:38:45.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It just so happens that Waldo Lake Amber is my recipe.  I designed that kit for NB.  The technique is called First Wort Hopping and produces increased hop flavor and a smooth, mellow bitterness.  Sounds like they kinda screwed up my directions.  The right way to do it is to steep the grains, then when that's done and the bag with them has been removed, add the FWH and let them sit in the kettle for 15-20 min,  Then proceed with rest of the extract additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T20:38:45.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12507" CreationDate="2014-07-06T15:24:02.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I say that it's unnecessary - the malt extract does not need to go into the fridge, since it's sterile from the producer. Also nothing can grow in the malt extract due to the high sugar content, so I'd say the chilling and reheating is just creating extra work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply leave the malt extract at room temperature and pour into the pot. If you want to decrease the viscosity, then letting the extract stand in some warm water may help, but this is often unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T15:24:02.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1655" CreationDate="2014-07-06T16:37:46.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, Whirlfloc works better.  I used Irish moss for my first couple of years, until I found Whirlfloc.  The first time I tried it I was &lt;strong&gt;amazed&lt;/strong&gt; at how clear my wort got.  I chill by putting my kettle in a tub of cold water, and the visual effects of a Whirlfloc-treated wort when it hits about 25 degrees C are pretty cool.  I've never seen anything like it in my Irish Moss batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I did my first batch going back to Irish Moss (I ran out of Whirlfloc) and it did &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; clear nearly as well as all my Whirlfloc batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'm not using enough Irish Moss.  I'm using about 1 tsp in 5 gallons, re-hydrating it in warm water before putting it in for the last 10 minutes of the boil.  I think I'll try a couple more batches with IM, but if I don't get better results I'm going back to Whirfloc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should clarify that I'm talking about pre-fermentation clarity.  I get crystal-clear wort when using Whirlfloc, but I don't think I've ever seen that with Irish Moss.  But I'm not sure about the difference between the two post-fermentation.  I always have significant chill haze with both, and I haven't really compared the two.  But I've found that pre-fermentation the difference is striking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2014-08-02T18:57:28.443" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T18:57:28.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12520" CreationDate="2014-07-06T22:41:50.227" Score="1" ViewCount="2762" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered four extracts from NB and received four Wyeast liquid yeast smack packs. There website specifically recommended against purchasing liquid yeast from them during the summer but I did so anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast/package was shipped on Monday and arrived Friday night, where I immediate smacked two of the packets and put the other two in the fridgerator. The two I smacked that night inflated as normal and I made yeast starters out of them, which I just pitched yesterday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After pitching yesterday, I took the remaining two smack packs out of the fridge (both are &lt;strong&gt;Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale&lt;/strong&gt;), smacked them, went to a movie and when I came back they were not inflated. I went to bed, and 8 hours later they were still not inflated. I made yeast starters out of them this morning (and verified the inner pouch was punctured), and its been about 8 hours now and there is no activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just a coincidence that the two smack packs I used last week right from the UPS package inflated while the two that I had stored in my refrigerator for a week did not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Main question: Does a smack pack which does not inflate suggest that the yeast died, or rather became unusable?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="2377" LastEditDate="2015-01-20T02:10:08.150" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T02:10:08.150" Title="Wyeast Smack Pack did not inflate" Tags="|yeast|smack-pack|wyeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-06T22:52:23.120" Score="2" ViewCount="4060" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started kegging, roughly 6 batches ago. Initially I would keg two batches and place them in the refridgerator, waiting two weeks for them to carbonate &quot;naturally&quot; (as opposed to &quot;forced&quot; carbonation) before I began drinking them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the thought occurred to me that when I bottled, I still waited two weeks, but the bottles were at room temperature and not at 40 degrees in my refrigerator, as were my kegs. From what I remembered, beer which you let sit for a while in a bottle gets better as it ages because the yeast is still active and conditioning at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my next two batches that I was to keg, I then decided to leave the kegs and CO2 tank outside of the refrigerator for the two weeks of natural carbonation such that they could condition while at room temperature, instead of in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking this to its logical conclusion, however, would result in the belief that kegging is inferior to bottling in regards to conditioning. After two weeks, I put the kegs back in the fridge, where the yeast become inactive and thus stop conditioning the beer. With bottling, I leave the bottles on a shelf for however long it takes me to drink all of the bottles. I simply move some bottles into the refrigerator several hours before I drink. And because I typically have 5 batches bottled at any given time, a single batch can last a long time if I rotate between each batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Am I correct in thinking that if you keg a batch and store it in the fridge (or store all your bottles from a batch in the fridge) halt conditioning? Am I simply mistaken? Does conditioning, or the process by which aging beer makes it taste better, have nothing to do with yeast -- or does the yeast in a keg at 40*F continue to condition the beer?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T02:22:55.313" Title="Kegging Vs Bottling in regards to Conditioning" Tags="|bottling|kegging|bottle-conditioning|keg|conditioning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12513" CreationDate="2014-07-07T02:50:08.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbonation from conditioning is cuaused by yeast. Generally, refrigerating beer reduces the temperature below the yeasts active temperature and halts conditioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer taste changing from aging is cuaused by yeast and other factors. Not all beers improve with age. All beers have there prime. It may be fresh out of the fermenter, such with lower alcohol styles or years later like with high alcohol Belgians. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2967" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T02:50:08.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12512" CreationDate="2014-07-07T02:53:54.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A pack that does not inflate could be ok. Some strains are slower to start. But, if you made a starter and there's still no activity, the yeast may be inactive. I wouldn't risk it in my batch. I'd get another pack or 2. Maybe throw in a dry yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2967" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T02:53:54.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12495" CreationDate="2014-07-07T06:42:05.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Iodine based sanitizers may also stain your plastic equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation: Leave the bucket outside in the sun for a few hours, then smell the inside. if the inside has any aromas then you need to take the bucket back or get a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T06:42:05.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12507" CreationDate="2014-07-07T06:53:25.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no fault with warming the extract. Some of the companies recommend it as it makes pouring the liquid easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Idea: Placing the can in a basin of hot water&#xA;Bad Idea: Heating the can on a stovetop or suchlike may cause the can to burst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do is warm the can in hot water in the basin while I wait for my brewing water to come to a boil. I remove the labeling and glue, etc. When the brewing water has reached boiling point I remove the pot from heat and then take the can out of the water in the basin. Open can and pour the liquid into the pot. When the bulk has been poured out I use tongs to lower the can into the brewing water so that the still near boiling water flows into the can. I swirl the liquid inside the can, pour out and repeat until the can is empty. Discard can. Last two steps: Mix the extract well into the water and then return to heat source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: This method adds all the extract at the start of the boil. Late extract edition also exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T06:53:25.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12540" CreationDate="2014-07-07T08:57:39.503" Score="2" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old 5L oak barrel that has been used in the past for aging rum. It hasn't been used in a long time so I am I the process of swelling the wood again by adding boiling water but when the barrel overflowed there was a wax like substance coming out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what this is? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second question, is boiling water enough to clean the barrel? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to use I for flavoring cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T13:52:29.913" Title="Wax looking stuff in oak barrel" Tags="|cider|oak|barrel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12512" CreationDate="2014-07-07T11:37:55.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say it was the fact you put it in the fridge, which will cause the yeast to go dormant. I usually leave for at least 24 hours if they have been stored in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the yeast were dormant, not dead, and needed some more time to get up to speed compared to the packs that were not put in the fridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had left the pack 72 hours and still no result then that does indicate yeast were not viable. But in your case, I think it was simply too little time before pitching into the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also WLP004 can be a slow starter - I have had lag times in excess of 48 hours with that strain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T11:37:55.533" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12512" CreationDate="2014-07-07T15:06:45.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say you were too impatient.  There's no reason to assume that the pack will inflate that fast.  The ROT is to give it one day for every week past manufacture.  So even if the pack was only a couple weeks old, that would have been at least to days for it to inflate.  And 8 hours in a starter is too soon to determine there's no activity.  The packs might or might not have been OK, but you didn't wait long enough to find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T15:06:45.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12513" CreationDate="2014-07-07T15:19:46.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Conditioning (getting CO2 into the beers) will stop or slow down to a crawl in a fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lagering (storing beer at fridge temps) will cause the beer to be clearer as more yeast will fall out. Oxidation will be minimized. Higher alcohols will be avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T15:19:46.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12528" CreationDate="2014-07-07T20:51:37.840" Score="0" ViewCount="7146" Body="&lt;p&gt;A beer from japan arrived in my city: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kirinichiban.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kirin Ichiban&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;The main argument that the brand gives is &quot;100% malt, first press beer&quot;. In the link above they explain a little of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience with homebrew, where I am focused only in my pleasure, not really in the money spent, I understand that sparge is very usefull to take apart all of the sugars off the grains. Thinking that we are talking about a industry, certainly they are more concerned about brew efficiency and money than me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can we believe in this assumption or its only about advertisement and fooling people? Thanks in advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2021-05-21T08:51:28.973" Title="What is 'first press' beer?" Tags="|sparge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5138" CreationDate="2014-07-07T21:05:33.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are mainly two issues when dealing with pectins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The haze it can cause, and this is just cosmetics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pectins being very large molecules make filtration very difficult&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rule of tumb is to use low to medium pectin content fruits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;High pectin content:&lt;/strong&gt; tart apples, citrus fruits, cranberries, currants, gooseberries and sour plums.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Medium pectin content:&lt;/strong&gt; Cherries, blueberries, blackberries and raspberries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Low pectin content:&lt;/strong&gt; Strawberries, peaches, pear, pineapple, apricots and rhubarb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/item/1602-what-is-the-purpose-of-pectic-enzyme-in-many-fruit-beer-recipes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source: BYO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3463" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T21:05:33.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-10T20:05:10.807" Score="5" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a used tequila barrel from a local brewery. They used it in the brewing process of one of their beers and they were done them so they sold them to the public.&#xA;I started wondering if I could somehow incorporate the barrel into my own home brewing process other than turning it into a decorative piece of a home bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concerns are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I determine if the barrel is still worth using.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What type of beer might work for having a hint of tequila flavor&#xA;added to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7884" OwnerDisplayName="rgdayo" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T04:42:44.880" Title="Tequila Barrel Fermenting or Aging" Tags="|brewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12525" CreationDate="2014-06-10T21:55:30.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some beer styles benefit from the flavor and tannins of aging in oak. Usually, the beer is transferred to the barrel for secondary fermentation and aging (after primary fermentation is complete). There are a few important considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be sure the barrel is &quot;food safe&quot;, ie not treated with harsh cleaning chemicals, coatings, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure it is water tight first. If it has dried out too much it might not be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do tastings at intervals to determine the strength of oak flavor you want. In general, smaller casks contribute stronger flavor due to greater surface area per volume. Strength will decline with repeated use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will likely retain some of the flavors or microorganisms of the previous cask contents. Usually this is desirable, but there is also the risk of infection since you cannot realistically sterilize the cask. Allowing alcohol to develop first in a sterile primary &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; minimize this risk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what is an appropriate style specifically for tequila barrels, but sours, wild ales, IPAs, strong ales and high ABV styles are frequently barrel aged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" OwnerDisplayName="HourOfTheBeast" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T22:07:43.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12525" CreationDate="2014-06-12T14:02:54.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your barrels should be fine to use as long as they are still moist inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good way to check for this is by inspecting the bunghole. If the bunghole is not properly sealed with a rubber stopper, chances are that the barrel will be dried out.&#xA;If the barrel is dry, ensure that the metal hoops are properly connected and not loose - if they are not in their proper location, the barrel is not worth using as you won't be able to develop a liquid tight seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your barrel is dry, you could attempt to salvage it by filling it 20% full with hot, chlorine-free (this is important - no chlorine) water. Put a bung in, shake it all around until water stops leaking from the seams of the barrel. Now, put the barrel right-side up and fill the outside of the head with hot water and let it sit for 20 minutes. Repeat for the other head (turn barrel upside down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test the barrel by filling it all the way with water and watching for leaks. If it does leak, let the barrel sit full of water for 24 hours. &#xA;If it still leaks after this, your barrel is probably flawed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please keep in mind that the water you use will directly affect the flavor of your beer in the end. We recommend using a spring water bought from the grocery store - Deer Park has a nice neutral flavor in our opinion. Whatever you do, don't use tap water without a proper filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the beer, you might try something like Mikkeller's Black Hole (Tequila-barrel aged Imperial Stout). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ratebeer.com/beer/mikkeller-black-hole-barrel-aged-edition-tequila/144100/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ratebeer.com/beer/mikkeller-black-hole-barrel-aged-edition-tequila/144100/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything with a high alcohol content will work well. You could experiment with a Saison even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tequila-aged barleywine sounds interesting to us!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answered by: the Gastrograph Team&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6850" OwnerDisplayName="Gastrograph" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T14:02:54.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12523" CreationDate="2014-07-07T21:52:18.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Efficient use of materials is certainly a problem if you only take the first runnings and do not sparge, but it's not as much of a problem if you practice partigyle brewing. Partigyle used to be a common practice in many breweries to brew separate beers with the first, second, and, occasionally, third runnings from the mash. This might be very cost effective for a large brewer, since they can essentially get two &quot;brands&quot; out of a single mash. It will be even more effective if the country has laws taxing malt beverages at different levels depending on ABV. Japan has happoshu, but I believe the law is about % malt in the grain bill, not strictly ABV, so a second runnings beer would probably not qualify for the lower tax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in short, only brewing from the first runnings does not necessarily entail that the brewer doesn't care about efficient use of their ingredients. That might be the case, but without knowing whether Kirin practices partigyle, couldn't say for certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6053" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T21:52:18.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3259" CreationDate="2014-07-07T23:07:40.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long you let the beer ferment is dependent on your goals, so there is no definite coverall answer. Styles which benefit from very &quot;fresh&quot; hop flavors such as session IPAs should have short fermentation and shelf life to keep their volatile flavor compounds intact. However some high-alcohol beers and wild ales benefit from very long fermentation, even years at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast will continue to ferment over time, though fermentation will slow to a crawl once the majority of fermentable sugars have been converted to CO2 + alcohol. In general, the beer will become gradually &quot;dryer&quot; and stronger through this process, although there may be unfermentable sugars, such as dextrins, that remain behind permanently and contribute body and sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of timing, there is no specific need for you to cut your fermentation short. A primary fermentation of 1-2 weeks, followed by racking to secondary for 2-4 weeks is sufficient for most styles. Adding additional time may help with clarity and allow any harsh flavors to mellow and mature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T23:07:40.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12525" CreationDate="2014-07-08T04:42:44.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in a similar situation with a barrel that I am wanting to use at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be wise to fill the barrel with water to swell the wood back out as when it is dry it shrinks letting the liquid out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fill it for a few days topping up as needed and if the leaks don't stop after those few days(up to a week) then I would use it as decoration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the tequila flavor since it has ha beer in it then most of the tequila would have been lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T04:42:44.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12534" CreationDate="2014-07-08T11:16:14.330" Score="1" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottled my beer two days ago, primed with honey as per the instructions of my all-grain kit. I've since been reading and found you need to leave about an inch of headspace in the bottles. Unfortunately I did not know this at the time and have filled the bottles to the brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it ok to open the bottles and let some beer out to get this headspace or will that ruin the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7958" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T14:13:50.820" Title="Bottle Headspace Problem" Tags="|bottling|headspace|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12532" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-08T13:17:32.603" Score="1" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having some issues keeping the temperature controlled. I live in SE QLD and the daily ambient temperature has been 23 degrees C down to 11C. I've been advised not to let the wort drop below 18C but it has been lower, about 15C with a high of about 22C.&#xA;I would like to know&lt;br&gt;&#xA;        1 What are the ill affects of this (other than the yeast becoming inactive)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2 If I leave it a bit longer and get the temperature regulated (towels and a heat pad) Would I  be ok to leave it for a couple of weeks and then check the hydrometer before bottling?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;         Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7957" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T14:45:19.093" Title="Temperature control during 1st phase fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|temperature|temperature-control|stuck-fermentation|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12532" CreationDate="2014-07-08T13:58:50.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you will need to extend the fermentation time, as cold will slow down the yeast's ability to reproduce and ferment.  Your best bet is to get a temperature controller (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00862G3TQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;STC-1000&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00368D6JA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Johnson digital controller&lt;/a&gt;) and accompany that with your heat pad or a purpose built &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/products/fermwrap-heater.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FermWrap&lt;/a&gt; from MoreBeer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case, you don't attenuate all the way, and then when you bottle, you risk the yeast kicking back into action and over-carbonating your bottles with dangerous consequences.  Less pessimistic would be to have them drop off too early and you'd have a sweeter than normal beer.  Other side effects include flavor production depending on the yeast used.  Some yeast produce certain flavor compounds at certain temperatures.  Take a typical Hefeweizen yeast such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp300-hefeweizen-ale-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WLP300&lt;/a&gt;.  They tend to produce more clove flavor at below-optimal temperatures, and banana at above-optimal temperatures.  To balance them, you would need to ensure proper fermentation temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you can steady the temperature with heating &amp;amp; cooling, your temperatures sound like they'd do well for lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T13:58:50.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12531" CreationDate="2014-07-08T14:13:50.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do that, but you will lose a bit of the CO2 that has been produced. Assuming you cap, you will have to recap with new (sanitized) caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you work clean this should not give you any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T14:13:50.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12546" CreationDate="2014-07-08T14:22:37.207" Score="3" ViewCount="5071" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are told to leave around an inch of headspace (depending on the bottle), but does anyone know why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2024-01-29T01:22:47.623" Title="Why leave headspace when bottling?" Tags="|bottling|headspace|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12535" CreationDate="2014-07-08T14:43:23.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I've been told is that the CO2 from that space is what dissolves into the beer to carbonate it.  I can tell you from my experience that little to no headspace makes the beer carb less and slower and lots of headspace makes it carb more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T14:43:23.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12538" CreationDate="2014-07-08T16:25:17.233" Score="1" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;Essentially the title. I've made a Chocolate Cherry Stout recipe and I'm trying to weigh the pros and cons of extract vs real fruit. I've never used fruit in a beer so I'm basically in the dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7960" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T16:32:14.023" Title="Chocolate Cherry Stout: Real cherries or extract" Tags="|stout|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12537" CreationDate="2014-07-08T16:32:14.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had good results with cherry extract -- the stuff tastes like cough syrup. Canned cherries (the kind explicitly intended for brewing, processed to reduce pectin haze) will produce a much better taste. You'll want to use a lot of them in an assertive style like a chocolate stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and remember -- the fruit will provide tartness, not sweetness. In a dark beer, you run the risk of that flavor coming off as astringent. Consider sweetening with lactose for a more familiar cherry-ness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7961" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T16:32:14.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12518" CreationDate="2014-07-08T21:27:13.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible the barrel was previously lined with pitch? If so you might consider not using it. Pitch seals the wood and blocks the wood character from effectively aging the beer, as well as reducing porosity that contributes subtle oxidation and the development of microorganisms (all are primary reasons for barrel aging). Plus who want chunks of unknown sealant material in their beer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's just residue from previous contents (such as beerstone/winestone) or organic buildup, a thorough scrubbing with hot water and food-safe cleaners should suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T21:27:13.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12513" CreationDate="2014-07-08T23:19:04.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbonating with yeast and priming sugar, carbonating with a CO2 tank and aging a beer (under any number of conditions) are all different animals. You can carbonate in a keg with yeast and priming sugar (treating it as a large &quot;bottle&quot;), but like the other posters said, it's not going to work well at fridge temps. Aging a beer has different effects depending on whether you bulk age at cellar/ferment temps before carbonating, bottle age in a cellar with bottle conditioning, or age in a keg after carbonation at fridge temps. All three generally have positive impacts on a beer. The advantage to aging after carbonation at fridge temps, is you can &quot;taste&quot; the difference much more easily. However, if you keg, carbonate and fridge too early, there are bulk aging at cellar temp properties that you will never get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T02:22:55.313" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T02:22:55.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12544" CreationDate="2014-07-09T05:04:08.023" Score="2" ViewCount="557" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would it be a problem if I did not siphon my peach-wine-in-the-making after the primary fermentation, but rather poured it directly into the carboy? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7963" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T12:08:25.823" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T14:41:13.347" Title="Consequences of pouring instead of siphoning wine after primary fermention" Tags="|wine|racking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12542" CreationDate="2014-07-09T12:09:34.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, is is a problem. After primary fermentation, one of the most important staling agents your homebrew will face is oxygen. Pouring will almost guarantee the introduction of oxygen, whereas siphoning minimizes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T12:09:34.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12542" CreationDate="2014-07-09T14:41:13.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't a huge issue... Though oxidation is bad, it's a lot worse with beer and hopped beverages, as hop flavor can be compromised in the presence of oxygen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3628" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T14:41:13.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12535" CreationDate="2014-07-09T14:52:28.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gas compresses under pressure.  Liquid doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have no head space, then when CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is produced after bottling, there's nowhere for the pressure to go but to break the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have too much head space, then if enough CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is produced to produce the bottle, then there's quite a bit of compressed gas expanding, and that expansion is dangerous, throwing bits of glass around the place, and perhaps either hurting someone or breaking neighbouring bottles in storage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember a product recall of soft-drinks in New Zealand because the head space was too large, and accidents were occurring in supermarkets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7965" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T14:52:28.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5409" CreationDate="2014-07-10T15:29:40.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a peltier chip conical fermenter build &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://conical-fermenter.com/TemperatureControlledBuildSetup.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://conical-fermenter.com/TemperatureControlledBuildSetup.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7972" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T15:29:40.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14768" CreationDate="2014-07-10T21:07:47.923" Score="2" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does malted barley have fat like un-malted barley?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If either have fat, why doesn't this cause problems in the beer?  What happens with this fat during the brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T13:48:49.463" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T20:29:41.927" Title="Fat in malted and unmalted barley" Tags="|malt|brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-10T21:36:39.127" Score="1" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My knowledge about hops and their contributions to bittering and aroma:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hops can be grouped by four purposes, being: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bittering&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Aroma&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and Dual, the dual can be divided yet by &quot;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;bittering/aroma&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; and &quot;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;aroma/bittering&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; (summarizing the four groups). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some vendors says that bittering hop (single-purpose) can only contribute to bittering, none or negligible contribution to aroma. In others hands, the aromatic hop, can only contribute to aroma, none or negligible contribution to bittering. But the dual purposes hops can contribute to both, usually more to one than another (bittering or aroma), according to the first and second word, the first word says what the hop can contribute more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the boiling extracts the bitter from hops, and its flavor and aroma are lost. Why the bittering hops (single purpose) is presented by vendors with their all aromatic notes ? Why or when its aromatic notes are important for the beer ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Bittering hops single-purpose&quot;, can still be used to contribute to the aroma ? Is it meaningful ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T14:55:30.850" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T22:41:30.267" Title="What is the use of aromatic notes of bittering hop single-purpose?" Tags="|hops|boil|bitterness|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12549" CreationDate="2014-07-11T00:38:39.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Bittering hops&quot; are those with high alpha acids that contribute more IBUs than one with less alpha acids. But a bittering hop that is not boiled for long (or added post-boil) will not contribute to high IBUs or bitterness, just aroma and flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a so-called bittering hop for aroma and flavor and vice-versa. There may be debate on whether that results in excellent tasting beer, but it's doable, and the flavor and aroma profiles of these high alpha acid hops are important in those cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6562" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T00:38:39.053" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12503" CreationDate="2014-07-11T17:08:24.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add a reminder, the cara/crystal malts don't add any fermentable sugars, they are only for color, body and sweetness depending on the level of carmelizaton. Substituting any light cara malt should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3255" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T16:02:15.290" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T16:02:15.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12561" CreationDate="2014-07-11T19:44:02.970" Score="1" ViewCount="1194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to brewing beer, i've made mead and wine in the past with varying success, I understand the bottling procedure with those two products but bottling beer is foreign to me and I just want to make sure I'm not going to completely ruin my first batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started the fermentation process tuesday evening, and I'm planning on bottling sunday, which according to the instructions is the correct length of time for this kit. I started the fermentation at 28 C and I've kept the temperature between 24 and 27. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: When I'm bottling should I rack the beer the same way I rack wine and mead in order to reduce the amount of sediment in the bottles? and is there any way I can prevent almost any sediment from being present in the beer that is cost effective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7979" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T21:23:50.220" Title="How to bottle new brew properly" Tags="|bottling|ipa|sediment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12552" CreationDate="2014-07-11T23:54:09.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way you're going to prevent sediment from forming at the bottom of your bottles is if you force carbonate (most commonly done through kegging) and fill your bottles after it's been carbonated using something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/products/counter-pressure-bottle-filler.html?gclid=CLzfp425vr8CFc8F7AodRXgArw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;counter-pressure filler&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/beergun-stainless-bottle-filler.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blichmann Beer Gun&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to follow the instructions you were given.  The steps will likely equate to the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil and chill the correct amount of sugar included in the kit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack beer out of bucket/carboy into bottling bucket, careful to not oxygenate the beer during transfer.  Also, slowly lower the tip of your syphon into the beer while racking it off.  Don't simply stick it all the way into the bottom of the vessel.  Try to follow the beer-line as to not stir up the sediment in your carboy/bucket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the sugar-water solution to the beer and gently stir thoroughly as to make sure the sugar-water is evenly distributed throughout.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(I'm assuming you're cleaning &amp;amp; sanitizing &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt;, therefor omitting it) Attach the racking cane to the bottling bucket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour off the beer into the bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply sanitized caps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Condition as necessary before consuming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When pouring, pour gently to prevent oxygen from bubbling into the bottle as you pour, which will stir up all the yeast and proteins at the bottom of the bottle.  Pour off all but the last little bit to keep the sediment in the bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to note, instructions only take you so far.  Yeast is a mysterious, wonderful living organism that has it's own schedule.  Just because your instructions say ## days are needed, you'll need to verify that it is in fact ready to bottle.  The best way to determine this is to take daily measurements using your hydrometer after fermentation has visibly completed.  If the measurements remain the same for three days in a row, you are safe to bottle.  If the reading reduces, it is not complete and you need to wait longer until it does steady for three days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, pro-tip: Set your full bottling bucket on the counter over your dish washer and open the door to the washer.  1 - Serves as an awesome bottle rack, and 2 - no cleaning up drips on the floor.  Just close the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T23:54:09.513" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-12T17:59:16.083" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't even done my first batch of full grain brewing for beer. I certainly don't want to learn Saki (at the moment), but I would enjoy brewing some extract version of it (for now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any suppliers whom sell an extract version of Saki, or is this not possible for whatever reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T14:24:21.760" Title="Does Saki have Extract Brewing?" Tags="|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10755" CreationDate="2014-07-12T19:41:37.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I still have not completely solved this problem, I did find one thing that was definitely causing a problem.  One of the gas lines had a rubber insert where it connected to the keg tapper.  I cannot find an image online of what I have, but it had a collapsed slot in it that did something to regulate gas flow.  I couldn't figure out the purpose for it, but only one of the two gas lines had it.  This was causing the two taps to have different pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while trying to find the best pressure, one of the taps always was too low or too high in pressure.  This was causing confusion and preventing me from properly calibrating the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="918" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T19:41:37.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2014-07-13T17:44:48.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with DAX, have put bottled beer directly into the fridge. It takes about 3-4 weeks, but will carbonate. The carbonation may be finer (smaller bubbles) but is adequate. Don't think it really adds much just did it many years ago as an experiment, comparing to room temp carbonation from same batch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7986" LastEditorUserId="3206" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T16:02:09.703" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T16:02:09.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12554" CreationDate="2014-07-14T14:42:51.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never seen nor heard of an extract for sake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T14:42:51.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12560" CreationDate="2014-07-14T14:50:16.320" Score="1" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;My pot burned a tiny portion, about an inch across, of the steeping bag for an all-grain recipe prior to the boil. Is the beer still safe to drink? What off-flavors can that produce?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6857" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T02:33:05.943" Title="Is brew with burned steeping bag safe to drink?" Tags="|all-grain|steeping|burner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12559" CreationDate="2014-07-14T15:24:41.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on having done it myself, you will possibly have a burned, smoky flavor and not in a good way. Whether it's safe to drink depends at least partially on what the bag is made of.  If the bag was muslin, it's likely safe.  If it was nylon, I'd be more worried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2014-07-14T16:44:55.567" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T16:44:55.567" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12552" CreationDate="2014-07-14T17:15:47.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, one of the best and most common methods is to rack your beer to a &lt;em&gt;secondary&lt;/em&gt; fermentation vessel, and an additional transfer before bottling.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure primary fermentation is complete first. This is typically several days to a week. You can use a hydrometer to take successive readings to be certain. If the gravity of the beer doesn't change over a couple days, then primary is sufficiently complete.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gently rack the beer to your secondary vessel, making sure not to pull traub from the bottom, or floating mass from the surface. I generally leave the beer in secondary for 2+ weeks to settle and mature, but this depends on the style and your goals, and you could shorten the time. More time = more settled.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additionally, at the end of this period you can &lt;em&gt;cold crash&lt;/em&gt; the beer by refrigerating the whole fermenter for 1-2 days. The cold temperature will drop the suspended yeast, making it as clear as possible without the use of fining additives or filtration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat the racking process a second time to your &lt;em&gt;bottling bucket&lt;/em&gt;, leaving the remaining sediment behind. Add your priming sugar dissolved in a few cups of the beer, to the bucket. Mix it well to avoid uneven bottle carbonation, and then bottle. At this point the remaining sediment should be very minimal, possibly invisible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" LastEditorUserId="6825" LastEditDate="2014-07-14T21:23:50.220" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T21:23:50.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-14T17:55:09.570" Score="2" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I condition my lager so it minimal sedimentary deposits&#xA;I am new to this and have tried only sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7990" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T17:58:34.213" Title="Sediment in my bottles" Tags="|conditioning|bottle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12562" CreationDate="2014-07-14T22:30:03.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two ways to get carbonated beer in bottles: natural conditioning, and force carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Natural conditioning is a process in which a small amount of fermentable sugar is added to the beer at bottling time. The yeast in the beer will ferment the sugar, adding carbon dioxide and a small amount of alcohol. Because the yeast become active to produce the carbon dioxide, there will be small amount of yeast sediment in the bottles when the conditioning is complete. This is unavoidable unless you want to resort to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sparkling_wine_production#Disgorging&quot;&gt;disgorging&lt;/a&gt;, as is done with traditional Champagne.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Force carbonation is where the brewer carbonates the finished beer in bulk, usually in a keg of some description, and then bottles the carbonated beer. In order to keep the beer carbonated during the bottling process, the bottling must be done under pressure. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/361-build-a-counter-pressure-bottle-filler-projects&quot;&gt;counter-presure bottle filler&lt;/a&gt; is indispensable for doing this well. Provided the beer was crystal-clear and stable prior to bottling, it should never drop a sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both scenarios, if the beer is not crystal clear before bottling, the amount sediment in the bottles will be greater. You can reduce, but not eliminate, sediment in naturally conditioned beer by ensuring the beer is clear before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T22:30:03.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12562" CreationDate="2014-07-15T10:30:06.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To build on what tobias said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In both scenarios, if the beer is not crystal clear before bottling, the amount sediment in the bottles will be greater. You can reduce, but not eliminate, sediment in naturally conditioned beer by ensuring the beer is clear before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more sediment you start with, the more you will end up with.  There are several points in the brewing process where you can reduce sediment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is a better &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter7-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cold break&lt;/a&gt;.  If you quickly chill your beer after the boil is over, more proteins will precipitate out then and there and you'll have a much clearer beer from the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'right' handling during fermentation and racking can also give clearer beer.  Keep your fermenter still.  Don't shake it, don't move it around, don't carry it up and down stairs to show your friends, etc.  Once you've put where it should be, leave it there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of this is good planning - how are you racking your beer?  If you're using an auto-siphon and not a pump, you need your primary fermenter to be higher than your secondary fermenter/bottling bucket - so you should put your fermenter on a a table/milk crate/etc to start with and then you won't need to move it around and disturb the yeast bed before racking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good idea is a sort of secondary cold break - chill your fermenter in the day before bottling.  This will cause more precipitates to fall out and give you clearer beer.  In many cases this goes against the first bit of &quot;DON'T MOVE YOUR FERMENTER!&quot; advice, so unless you have a setup where you can change the temperature of the fermenter without moving it, this is probably not for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're ready to rack, be careful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try not to disturb the yeast bed.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do, give yourself an hour or two before racking so it clears back out.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't tilt your bucket/carboy to get the last dregs.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you start seeing some yeast/precipitate in the line, STOP racking.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T10:30:06.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-15T15:11:40.290" Score="1" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on my first batch of wort, I didn't account for evaporation and had a couple boil overs, I'm sitting at about 4.25 gallons of wort.  Bottling calls for 5oz of priming sugar, should I reduce to account for the lost .75 gal.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7992" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T19:10:36.383" Title="Reduce Priming Sugar" Tags="|bottling|priming|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12568" CreationDate="2014-07-15T15:15:28.697" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just getting into brewing and I'm curious what kinds of Malts are out there and what I can expect from them. I made an IPA for my first batch, which seems to be conditioning well so far, and I'm trying to decide what I should try next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7979" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T15:47:41.607" Title="Can someone explain the difference between different kinds of malts?" Tags="|malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12565" CreationDate="2014-07-15T15:24:54.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should reduce the amount linearly. 5oz * (4.25gl/5gl) = 4.25oz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: on second thought, 2.5 volumes isn't all that high. &lt;del&gt;Though: 5oz of sugar will result in a pretty high carbonation for 5gl of beer.  What sort of style?  At what temp will you be doing your bottle priming?&lt;/del&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;priming sugar calculator&lt;/a&gt; to get a better handle on how much of what type of priming sugar to use for your batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-07-15T19:10:36.383" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T19:10:36.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12566" CreationDate="2014-07-15T15:47:41.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To save reinventing the wheel, take a look at this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/resources/grains&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/resources/grains&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T15:47:41.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12570" CreationDate="2014-07-15T20:00:00.330" Score="0" ViewCount="1782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen some tables online like the ones at &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/Potential-Alcohol-Content-from-Original-Gravity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;American Homebrewers Association&quot;&gt;American Homebrewers Association&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.brewhaus.ca/docs/SpecificGravityandAlcoholPotential.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Brewhaus Canada&quot;&gt;Brewhaus Canada&lt;/a&gt; that list Potential ABV for different values of Original Gravity.  My intuition tells me that these tables are developed using an estimated conversion rate for an average sugar content based on the Original Gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that most of these tables do not agree with each other.  How are tables like these developed?  Are they based on observations and experience, or is there a calculation that can be performed to determine Potential ABV using the Original Gravity (and a knowledge of the ingredients used)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm aware that Potential ABV is a poor estimate of Actual ABV.  I'm mainly interested in the theory behind the concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7949" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T20:16:10.577" Title="Calculating Potential ABV" Tags="|calculations|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12569" CreationDate="2014-07-15T20:16:10.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's 4 main parameters that are going to go into potential attenuation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The yeast's inherent attenuation range.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While most yeasts are in the 75-77% apparent attenuation range, some (like Wyeast 3711 in particular), have nearly 90% attenuation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The relative &quot;strength&quot; of the yeast going into the fermentation.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is going to be a function of the number of cells pitched, the cell vitality, the amount of the various yeast nutrients in the wort and available oxygen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mix of fermentable and unfermentable sugars in the wort.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash temperature plays into this balance; the lower mash temp range promotes shorter, more fermentable sugars, while higher mash temps tend toward less fermentable sugars, thus lower attenuation and more residual sweetness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjuncts (rice, simple sugars, honey) also affect this balance, of course.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temperature of the fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted a quick rule of thumb for abv based on OG:  last-two-digits-of-OG * .75 * .135.  Eg. for a 1.040 OG beer: 4.05% ABV.  This represents 75% attenuation, then the &quot;standard&quot; .135 multiplier for ABV.  Adjust this based on any outliers based on the criteria above: using an outlier yeast, adding sugar to the wort, outlier mash temp or outlier fermentation temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T20:16:10.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-16T00:51:59.743" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most kit wines claim they're ready to drink in a month or two.  I've found they're much better at 6 months or so.  But when making wine from grapes, it seems everyone recommends aging at least a year, if not longer.  So what do kit winemakers do to make their wine drinkable earlier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6098" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T21:18:43.893" Title="Why do kit wines age differently?" Tags="|wine|kits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12478" CreationDate="2014-07-16T01:46:41.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to brewchez &amp;amp; Denny's answers you can pre-boil your water and let sit overnight. This drops out the calcium carbonate and hence hardness. The water can then be decanted off  the thin layer of sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6700" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T01:46:41.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12448" CreationDate="2014-07-16T19:10:56.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To repeat what others have said: It's completely normal. Have you tried the same with store bought beer bottles? I know I have, and although they possibly keep the carbonation somewhat better, the same principle apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick with adding a little bit of sugar MIGHT work, but if the beer has matured enough there should be more or less no yeast left. As I'm sure you know, carbonation happens when the yeast in the brew &quot;eat&quot; the sugars, producing CO2. If there's no yeast left, there is no carbonation. (This is sometimes a challenge when brewing very strong ales, with lots of sugars - when it comes to bottling, one might find that there is too little yeast left for good carbonation, hence resulting in a flatter beer than you'd probably prefer. There are tricks for dealing with this, of course.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7937" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T19:10:56.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-16T21:44:11.323" Score="3" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried for the first time using the BIAB method and ran into a big problem with the mashing bag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I placed all the ingredients (9lbs of different grains) in the mashing bag without thinking of the weight problem/absorption. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was unable to remove the bag from the pot - it was just too heavy and it had absorbed 3/4 of the wart (5 gallons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did I do wrong? Is my mashing bag too fine? Was I suppose to mash small amounts of grain instead of all at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7995" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T06:03:18.527" Title="Mashing bag problem" Tags="|all-grain|boil|mashing|biab|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12574" CreationDate="2014-07-16T23:26:16.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds normal to me. When I was first reading up about BIAB, it was mentioned in several places that this is an issue. Absorbing 3/4 of 5 gallons seems like a bit much, but it will absorb some (I've heard about a quart per pound?). It probably didn't absorb that much, as the wort would drain out of the bag if you could hold it over the pot for 10-20 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've adapted my technique for BIAB over a few batches. These steps are my version of merging BIAB with all-grain and sparging, and helps with this issue. I've used this technique with all-grain recipies, and associated water temperatures for mash and sparge, and it turns out great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't start with all the water in the pot. Then if you need, you can take the pot down on the floor to get over the bag to lift it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put down towels when removing the bag. It drips... a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I got some buckets from WalMart, drilled holes in the bottom of one, and put the grain bag in the drilled bucket, and then that bucket into a second bucket. This will let it drain without having to hold it up the whole time. If you can get the pot on the floor, then just stand over it with the drain bucket right next to it. Then just lift, pivot, and lower the bag to start draining. Have an extra catch bucket ready for when the first one starts getting full. (Also helpful for the next step.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After not having used the full boil volume in the pot, we need more water. I heat up another few gallons, and begin pouring it over the grain bag in the fermenter bucket. The fermenter bucket is big enough to hold the extra volume you'll be pouring in there. This serves to rinse more of the sugars out of the grain, while topping off the volume. (This is my version of sparging.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2014-07-22T01:02:07.247" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T01:02:07.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12448" CreationDate="2014-07-16T23:42:38.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution is to drink the full liter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T23:42:38.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12581" CreationDate="2014-07-17T00:01:29.107" Score="3" ViewCount="1954" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some investigating, I've discovered that beer stone (calcium oxalate, mostly) doesn't just taste vile, it's highly toxic. Plus it's ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As if that wasn't bad enough, it's also incredibly tough &amp;amp; tenacious. TSP didn't touch it. Easy Off plus pressure washing peeled some of it away, and a good long soak in OxiClean softened it up enough that a scrub brush plus pressure washing got rid of some more. Chemicals plus lots of elbow grease will remove it…where you can reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barring heroic measures, such as blasting the insides of my Sankey kegs with, e.g. crushed walnut shells, can anyone tell me what WILL remove this poisonous dreck where the hand of man cannot go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[ edit: in my distress &amp;amp; aggravation I forgot to add &quot;Thanks in advance, any input would be much appreciated! ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T01:02:34.660" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T13:27:12.810" Title="Beer stone: what works?" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12579" CreationDate="2014-07-17T02:32:18.190" Score="1" ViewCount="921" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a standard, hand held bottle capper and when I am using it I am getting indentations in the cap. The larger problem is that I am having issues with inconsistent carbonation and want to determine if the capper is the problem.It seems like there could be 100 reasons why there is inconsistent carbonation but I am trying to rule out the capper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of what the cap looks like after applying what seems to be standard pressure when capping the bottles. I have also tried using varying pressure lighter and stronger when capping and noticed no noticeable difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFKOv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dented Bottle Cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Vcp3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uu2Rt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else had this issue and can you confirm it has or has not had an effect on you carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And no its not on there so light that the carbonation escapes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7996" LastEditorUserId="7996" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T04:21:47.380" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T04:21:47.380" Title="Capper indents bottle cap. Is this ok?" Tags="|equipment|bottling|carbonation|capping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12578" CreationDate="2014-07-17T02:44:53.727" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My capper does this too.  It's not been an issue for our beer.  If it was leaking I'd think you might see some evidence around the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T02:44:53.727" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-17T13:21:01.567" Score="1" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a peach wit that is going to be brewed tomorrow. It was a last minute decision to brew this for an upcoming summer barbecue. My question is this. Should i use fresh peaches in secondary? I only have approximately 30 days till the barbecue, I was considering using extract instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7997" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T16:52:13.690" Title="Peach Wit- extract flavoring or not" Tags="|recipe|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12577" CreationDate="2014-07-17T13:27:12.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.birkocorp.com/brewery/white-papers/removing-beerstone-a-look-at-alternative-cleaning-methods/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;. Most breweries are using a caustic clean solution I believe. The attached article talks about using a Phosphoric/ Nitric acid combination followed up with a non caustic alkaline based cleaner. These are serious chemicals however, be sure to take safety precautions when pouring, mixing and rinsing these cleaners. Serious chemicals for a serious cleaning job!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T13:27:12.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12580" CreationDate="2014-07-18T16:52:13.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general principle is that the later you add it, the more fruit flavor will come through in the beer. Age, oxygen, heat and fermentation will &quot;deaden&quot; the delicate flavors. I'd suggest freezing the fruit to break down the cell walls plus kill bugs, then pitch slices into a mid-to-short secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, extract might give you more punch, or more control if you are familiar with the particular extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T16:52:13.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12571" CreationDate="2014-07-18T18:20:09.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you get to the last few bottles of a kit, maybe six months to a year after it was made, you'll kick yourself for drinking the others too early.  Wine needs time, simple answer to your question.  But as was stated earlier, its marketing, by the kit companies. I never had a kit that didnt improve with time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastEditorUserId="6095" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T18:29:02.037" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T18:29:02.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12588" CreationDate="2014-07-18T21:21:39.573" Score="0" ViewCount="758" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made several batches of wine from kits and a few batches of mead.  One of the things that must be done after primary fermentation is to test the specific gravity.  The wine kits I have used typically have a set of instructions like this: test the SG every day starting on day X until the SG reaches Y.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I have been doing this is to make a gallon batch of Iodophor solution, sanitize my wine thief and hydrometer, steal some wine/mead, place the hydrometer into the wine thief, get a reading, and put all the wine/mead back into the fermentation vessel.  I realize that I can keep the Iodophor solution around for a few days (or until the color dissipates), but it still seem unnecessary when the amount of alcohol in wine/mead is going to be at least 10%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched a documentary (I can't find a link to it now) several years ago about a winery and remember seeing this guy take a wine thief off a table and stick it into a barrel of wine.  Now perhaps the scene simply didn't include the gentlemen sanitizing his wine thief, but it does beg the question: do I really need to sanitize my wine thief after primary fermentation is basically complete?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3624" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T14:03:41.493" Title="It is necessary to sanitize my wine thief after primary fermentation" Tags="|equipment|wine|sanitation|mead|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12586" CreationDate="2014-07-18T21:26:53.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always wash my test equipment like I wash any other kitchen utensils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T21:26:53.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12586" CreationDate="2014-07-18T23:28:22.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is some risk of infection by beer-dwelling organisms, especially souring bacteria. Sanitation is less critical after primary, but if you want to be certain, clean utensils with something food-safe like Star San.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T23:28:22.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-19T04:47:19.720" Score="2" ViewCount="801" Body="&lt;p&gt;My problem is that I have a 15L carboy a beer kit (Cooper's Irish Stout) that's supposed to be for 23L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I vaguely recall reading somewhere that I should leave about 20% headspace (so I'm only brewing 12L). I'll be fermenting with Safale S-04.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting a larger fermenter is out of the question right now since I don't have the space (or approval of my better half).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that I shouldn't attempt to use the entire can and just make it up to 12L. I don't know if I can store the unused extract for a month before brewing it a 2nd batch. So I'm thinking of making up 12L of something that's a little more concentrated than the manufacturer's recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done something like this? How concentrated can I make it and still have it palatable? I usually like big, heavy tasting beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8003" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T03:42:57.157" Title="Fermentation vessel too small for beer kit" Tags="|kits|beginner|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-19T09:25:08.127" Score="2" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing for a while,  and have made IMO, very tasty, refreshing IPA's.  However, using only gelatin as a fining agent (don't like possible Irish Moss issues, no access to chilling a batch in the warmer seasons), my beer has a degree of cloudiness.  Friends are somewhat put off by this issue, but generally like the beer.  What would be the result if I could produce a &quot;clear beer&quot;? Better taste? More stabilization of quality over life of the batch?  Are these elements of cloudiness a detriment to the final quality?  Thanks. Q&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T01:31:00.207" Title="Clear beer, really required?" Tags="|finings|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12590" CreationDate="2014-07-19T15:12:27.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO some beers need to be clear (Pils, Kölsch), some can be cloudy (Wheat beers). It's part of the style, just like bitterness or sweetness. For IPA, the BJCP style guide at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style14.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style14.php&lt;/a&gt; says mostly clear, but can be a little cloudy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cloudiness give a beer a certain &quot;craft&quot; or &quot;homemade&quot; touch. If you like the taste, I would not worry about the cloudiness --- it's homebrewing after all. You could still try to brew a clear one for comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T15:12:27.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-19T17:18:12.460" Score="1" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an SG of 1,040, and the target OG is about 1.065. &#xA;I was wondering if this is too low? &#xA;Should I add more water? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8004" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T17:15:30.283" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T17:15:30.283" Title="Is my SG too low?" Tags="|specific-gravity|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-08-05T02:04:13.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12592" CreationDate="2014-07-19T17:26:26.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, water would bring the SG closer to 1.0, which is the SG of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T17:26:26.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12597" CreationDate="2014-07-20T01:04:14.420" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently got a propane burner to brew outside (it's way too hot to be brewing inside), and I noticed something weird. As the wort came to a boil, it seemed like there was some oil floating on top. Before, on the stove top, I had never seen this. Note, this was before any addition of hops, this was pure grain wort. Any idea what this was?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps when boiling on the stove top, the boil took so long that these oils were emulsified before the boil (longer at high temps), as opposed to a quicker boil that didn't emulsify the oils before the rolling boil took hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pic to come shortly, apparently the mobile app can't do it. And apparently the website won't let me add a pic, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.meta.stackexchange.com/q/378/3925&quot;&gt;meta question&lt;/a&gt;. Not sure if this &lt;a href=&quot;https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos?pid=6037895766905336578&amp;amp;oid=108354696139412545098&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to the pic&lt;/a&gt; will work, but I'll try&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T15:46:00.860" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T15:03:24.003" Title="Oil before hops" Tags="|all-grain|boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12590" CreationDate="2014-07-20T03:10:48.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had much success with gelatine finings. It's my understanding it works best when the beer is cold. If it isn't, fining with gelatine can create a protein haze that might not be there otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such is my understanding, anyhow, and the few times I've tried it (in the distant, distant past) would seem to confirm it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Haze, whatever the cause, doesn't bother me unless it imparts off flavors to the beer, or makes it look truly gross. Not long ago, I inadvertently disturbed a keg that had a good deal of coagulated/flocculated (i.e. not microscopic) protein at the bottom. I kicked myself, tried a sip, and decided it didn't taste too bad but looked…beyond unpleasant. Couldn't drink it until it settled down again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for anything I'd drink myself: if my guests don't like a slight haze, they can bring their own beer ;-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T03:10:48.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6566" CreationDate="2014-07-20T05:53:52.137" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a fermented lemon cleaner by adding water, brown sugar and yeast to cut up lemons, putting them into plastic bottles and shaking them daily (and leaving the caps on just loosely the rest of the time). After a week it smells lovely. Not sure whether I should strain it after another week, or just whenever the bubbles stop foming, which I guess is the end of the fermentation process. From what I've read here, it might also be worth trying a sip (diluted in water)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8006" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T05:53:52.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12594" CreationDate="2014-07-20T15:03:24.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ndb.nal.usda.gov/ndb/foods/show/6355?fg=&amp;amp;man=&amp;amp;lfacet=&amp;amp;format=&amp;amp;count=&amp;amp;max=25&amp;amp;offset=&amp;amp;sort=&amp;amp;qlookup=barley&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hulled barley&lt;/a&gt; is about 2% fat by weight. That's almost certainly why we see a slight oil-slick on the wort before it boils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why you don't see it when you're boiling inside. It could be like you say,that the rapid speed of the outdoor boil has something to do with it. Or it could be that the light is brighter outside, showing the oil more clearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T15:03:24.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="524" CreationDate="2014-07-20T15:41:40.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;white sage to me is the best. Ihave used it as an addative about 50-50&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8008" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T15:41:40.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12535" CreationDate="2014-07-20T21:34:32.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't leave any head space you are in danger of the bottle exploding (bottle bomb) because the priming sugar and the yeast will continue to create CO2 to carbonate your beer and without enough head room the bottles will explode because the pressure will need to go somewhere!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8010" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T21:34:32.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2014-07-21T00:46:51.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried Paint Markers yet? They're better suited to permanently marking glass, though for the best results, you usually have to bake it on. Enamels like nail polish can work well depending on the grade of it, and there are the Paint Stains that Martha Stewart puts out. DecoArt and Martha Stewart are the two brands I've used teh most, DecoArt being the better if I want translucent, and Martha Stewart's got some pretty nice opaque glass paints/stains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8012" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T00:46:51.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12603" CreationDate="2014-07-21T06:12:43.550" Score="1" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Unofficial Game of Thrones Cookbook and it has some beer recipes I'm currently trying to follow. However, I'm confused as to wether it has two sets of instructions or all the brews are a mix of grain and extract?&#xA;The recipes look like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Malt/Grain/Sugar&#xA;6.0 pounds Wheat Malt&#xA;4.0 pounds Pilsner Malt&#xA;&#xA;Extract (for 6 pounds of Wheat Malt and 4 pounds of Pilsner Malt)&#xA;8.0 pounds Wheat Liquid Malt Extract (LME)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that two different options, one for all-grain, one for extract brewing, or is it a mixed recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8013" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T13:08:40.323" Title="Game of Thrones Recipe help" Tags="|all-grain|recipe|extract-plus-grains|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12602" CreationDate="2014-07-21T13:08:40.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its two different options. You can either do the malt version or the extract version. Wheat Liquid Malt Extract is actually a mix (usually 50/50) of wheat malt and pils/2-row/pale malt, depending on the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T13:08:40.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12607" CreationDate="2014-07-21T13:21:13.787" Score="1" ViewCount="5098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been doing a lot of reading on brewing in preparation for my second batch. The first mention of using specialty grains that I found suggested boiling them in the brew water for a full hour. I then went out and got a brew book and started reading, When they first mentioned using grains, they said to NEVER boil the grains, just steep them in boiled water for 15 to 30 minutes depending on what kind of beer you're making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm just wondering, should I boil the grains, or should I steep the grains in hot boiled water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what is the purpose of doing this, what characteristics do the grains pass on to the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7979" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T20:58:28.223" Title="Specialty Grains, To boil or not to boil" Tags="|boil|specialty-grains|grain|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12604" CreationDate="2014-07-21T14:58:23.960" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specialty grains need to be soaked in water at an optimal temperature for alpha amylase activity - 150-160F. Typically, 30 minutes is enough time for full flavor and sugar extraction. However, with specialty grains only, you aren't looking to get many fermentable sugars from the grains - only wort color and flavor.  If you steep them in water hotter than 160F, you won't get many fermentable sugars extracted from them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend just steeping at the temperature mentioned above. You do need to avoid &lt;strong&gt;burning&lt;/strong&gt; the grains with direct heat contact. Also, avoid squeezing or compressing them as this will extract unpleasant tannins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Removed statement that boiling grains is not dangerous in a partial mash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6535" LastEditorUserId="6535" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T17:16:40.507" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T17:16:40.507" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12592" CreationDate="2014-07-21T16:21:37.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this was a partial boil batch and you added water to top up after the boil, the problem is that you didn't get it mixed well enough before taking a reading.  It's a very common problem.  The wort, containing sugar, is heavier than water and sinks to the bottom of the fermener.  It's very difficult to get them thoroughly mixed, so the reading you get is from the watered down top portion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T16:21:37.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12604" CreationDate="2014-07-21T17:49:32.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand from Chris Dargis's comments, specialty grains are called that because they contribute more flavor than they do fermentable sugars.  In extract and partial mash brewing (what you're looking at doing), the fermentable sugars come mostly from your extract, where the specialty grains supplement the beer by contributing other characteristics such as flavor (e.g. sweet, caramel, honey, biscuit, roast, depends on what type of grain), mouthfeel and head retention.  Opposite of using extract is brewing using the all-grain brewing technique, where the brewer uses &quot;base grains&quot; instead of extract to get his fermentable sugars, as well as specialty malts.  Similar to partial mashing, all-grain brewing requires the brewer to soak the base grains and the specialty grains together before filtering out the grains and boiling the wort.  In reality, partial mash isn't the best, most intuitive title for the technique, think of it like a mini-mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Denny explained, you do not want to boil specialty grains when partial-mash brewing.  Water has a fairly high pH to start out with, which influences the extraction of tannins from the grains at high temperature, resulting in an astringent/bitter flavor (different from hop bitterness).  Tannin flavor is never desirable in beer.  The reason decoction mashing (part of all-grain brewing) can boil grains without extracting tannins is because the wort that they are boiling has a much lower pH than what you'll have when partial mashing.  The reason it is lower is because they are soaking both their specialty grains along with their base grains, which when mashing both together, the pH is much lower than if you only steeped your specialty grains alone.  You'll want to maintain a steady temperature between 150°-160°F for the steeping grains (assuming they're all malted grains being used).  Any higher, and you'll extract tannins, any less, and you won't get the optimal sugar extraction from the grains.  I've also seen some really wonky looking beers where they boiled the grains and the entire carboy looks like one giant yeast/protein cake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bit of an aside from your two questions, here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://vimeo.com/20328837&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an interesting, informative video from Brewing TV&lt;/a&gt; where they brewed two batches of beer of the same style.  One was brewed partial-mash, the other all-grain.  It helps to clarify the differences, and show how they compare in the end with tasting notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T17:54:54.253" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T17:54:54.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12604" CreationDate="2014-07-21T20:58:28.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a partial mash (malt extract plus specialty grains), do not boil the grains. Put them in a large mesh/muslin bag and steep them in your brewpot at 155f for 30-45 minutes before adding your hops or extract. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiling the grains would release harsh tannic flavors that you don't want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T20:58:28.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12615" CreationDate="2014-07-21T21:58:42.727" Score="1" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought some hops off eBay and the alpha acid listed was 10%, the reading I've done said cascade hops are in the 4-6% range. Could it be this high? I'm not sure if i should change my recipe I'll be doing in a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm basically doing the northern brewer dead ringer with these cascade hops instead of centennial hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Update&lt;/b&gt;&#xA;contacted the seller, said they tested it multiple times. Its the highest he's seen for his cascade crop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3575" LastEditorUserId="3575" LastEditDate="2014-07-22T13:52:53.727" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T14:51:14.497" Title="Cascade hops high alpha acid" Tags="|hops|alpha-acids|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6585" CreationDate="2014-07-21T22:28:08.687" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going through my storage and found I had 14 5 gallon ball lock corney kegs that I would let someone have for a good deal! I also have a 15.5 gal beer keg with top cut out and a stainless ball valve welded in the bottom. co2 tank &amp;amp; regulator, ball lock couplers and misc homebrewing supplies. been in storage for quite some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8017" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T22:28:08.687" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-07-21T22:28:08.687" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-21T23:18:40.980" Score="9" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.radicalbrewing.com/&quot;&gt;Radical Brewing&lt;/a&gt; says that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triticale&quot;&gt;triticale&lt;/a&gt; is a useful alternative to rye.  Apparently it's a rye-wheat hybrid, and is easier to sparge than rye, while still having a good rye flavour.  I'm interested in trying it, but I would like to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How close are the flavours?  What are the main differences?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it technically similar to rye in terms of how it should be brewed?  Is the sparge easier?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How easy is it to get hold of malted triticale (I'm in the UK)?  Is this a better bet than flaked, or are they similar in outcome?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8011" LastEditorUserId="8011" LastEditDate="2014-07-22T13:24:49.780" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T09:08:22.687" Title="How does triticale differ from rye in technique and flavour?" Tags="|adjuncts|sparge|rye|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-21T23:31:04.203" Score="2" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, the selection of malt (and adjunct), hops and yeast all affect the flavour of a beer in important ways.  However, while you can taste the malt and other grains to get a feel for what flavour they will give to the beer, and you can smell hops to get a feel for flavour and aroma (and use alpha acid level as an indicator for the bittering hops), I can't see a good way to get an intuitive feel for the effect of different yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there were only two or three yeasts, this would be fine: I could just try them all on some kind of reference mash.  However, there seem to be &lt;em&gt;hundreds&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: firstly, other than the obvious (like top fermenting vs bottom fermenting), is there a standard way of categorising yeasts?  I'm mainly interested in ale yeast at the moment, but broadly curious about the whole range of yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, is there a good way to get an intuitive feel for which yeast to choose for a particular job?  At the moment I feel as though my technique is &quot;pick the yeast whose name sounds closest to the beer I'm trying to make&quot;, which is obviously pretty terrible.  Any and all advice gratefully received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8011" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T15:02:55.787" Title="Selecting yeasts" Tags="|yeast|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12612" CreationDate="2014-07-21T23:42:54.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the yeasts have both qualitative and quantitative notes that describe the flavor profile and other characteristics (flocculation/clarity, attenuation, temperature effects, &amp;amp;c.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AmRc5_x3ehAfdFhBQ3pmczhqdHUtbmFONUYyZzVEY0E&amp;amp;authkey=CP-m-dUJ&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;authkey=CP-m-dUJ#gid=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YeastBot Database&lt;/a&gt; is an attempt to centralize some of this information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually try to find a yeast that's in the same sort of family as the style I'm trying to make, but then look for qualitative descriptors that match what I want out of the beer. For instance, a recent stout was subtly enhanced by the fruitiness/nuttiness of WY1099, and a schwarzbier I've done in the past came out much nicer with WY2206 vs. WY2124.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Splitting a single batch into two different pitches can also help you see the differences due just to yeast side-by-side; it's a bit easier to do splitting a 10gl batch into 5gl splits, but nothing says you can't split a 5 or 6gl batch into two primary carboys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T23:42:54.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12609" CreationDate="2014-07-22T00:26:27.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you are already substituting cascade hops instead of centennial hops, you are not going to hit some pre-destined goal.  So you might as well go with personal preference.  If, when you drink an APA or IPA, you don't like a lingering bitter, then cut back proportionally on the bittering addition (usually the 60 minute addition).  If you like the hop bitterness at the end, then go ahead and add the full amount. You will want to leave the later additions as per the recipe since the alpha is much less important for flavor and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T00:26:27.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12620" CreationDate="2014-07-22T09:58:50.420" Score="4" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the most simple type of beer I can begin brewing, in order to get a feel for how the process works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8020" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T10:42:51.947" Title="Most simple type of beer to begin brewing?" Tags="|brewing|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-22T10:04:06.277" Score="3" ViewCount="1150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to sell my home brew in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just make it at my flat, so I'm guessing I don't need a premises license?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sell it bottled and closed, so could I get away with simply having an &quot;off-license&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else that is required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately I want to be 100% legitimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8020" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T10:04:06.277" Title="How do I legally sell my home brew in the UK?" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-07-22T13:51:21.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12616" CreationDate="2014-07-22T13:50:50.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me I started with an IPA. I'm assuming you're starting with extract brewing, for this showed me the basics of what brewing involves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to have to add hops at various times and its generally just a great recipe to start out with. I've brewed this several times and I'm very happy with the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3575" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T13:50:50.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12609" CreationDate="2014-07-22T14:51:14.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The AA content of hops is seasonal, and depends a lot on the weather.  What you see listed in books is &quot;typical&quot;, but that doesn't mean it can't be higher or lower than that.  You should always adjust any recipe to the AA of the hops you;re using.  Don't match weights of hops, match IBU contributions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T14:51:14.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12616" CreationDate="2014-07-22T14:53:50.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something like a pale ale, either American or English, is pretty straight forward in terms of ingredients and procedures.  Don't start with a lager...they require extra equipment and time.  Some other styles, like Belgian beers, are a bit more finicky in terms of fermentation temp and I'd recommend avoiding them til you get more equipment and experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T14:53:50.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12590" CreationDate="2014-07-22T19:03:03.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always used a whirlfloc tablet (last 15min of boil) and a wort chiller and my beer comes out really clear (usually).&#xA;I find it doesn't impact the beer in any way (whether is clear or cloudy) just, like you said, some people are put off by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3575" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T19:03:03.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12622" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12623" CreationDate="2014-07-22T22:47:13.497" Score="7" ViewCount="15316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I typically bought Yeast Nutrients from Northern Brewer for my yeast starters and extracts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to my LHBS today to purchase some DME for an extract batch and asked for nutrients for the beers that I was to be brewing this weekend. He told me that for the overwhelming number of beers that I was to make, the mash bill, given the high percentage of barely, would have enough nutrition for the yeast and any addition would be completely unnecessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However at another LHBS I was told to use it in my starters and carboys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there any truth to this notion that yeast nutrients are unnecessary for brewing beers due to the fact that most grains used in the mash bill contain more than enough nutrients for yeast?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2018-01-14T20:27:55.823" LastActivityDate="2018-01-14T20:27:55.823" Title="Are Yeast Nutrients actually necessary for brewing Beer?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12622" CreationDate="2014-07-23T00:03:02.290" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;BYO has &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/2043-what-are-yeast-nutrients-and-how-are-they-used&quot;&gt;a pretty good, brief article&lt;/a&gt; on what yeast nutrient provides for your beer, as well as whether or not it's necessary.  To summarize for you, wort by itself is pretty rich in nutrient, and may not need yeast nutrient, especially if you re-pitch yeast from a previous batch (proper amounts of slurry, of course).  The one nutrient that is not present in wort, but is in yeast nutrient is zinc, which is necessary for cell growth, in small amounts, between 0.10–0.15 ppm.  In ye' olden days when brewers used copper for brewing, the copper leached sufficient amounts of zinc into their brew to allow for yeast to ferment healthily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the author of the post, a lack of zinc results in a prolonged lag phase in fermentation (that time in fermentation between when you pitch your yeast, and the krausen forms), with potential for stuck fermentations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question of yeast starters is a slightly separate conversation, as it has little to do with nutrient generation.  Yeast starters aren't made to provide nutrition for yeast, they are done to increase the cell count of your yeast so that you are pitching a sufficient quantity of new, healthy, stress-free yeast.  Since a starter involves fermentation, it will require zinc for healthy cell growth, so yeast nutrient would be a necessary addition for your starter, as it would be for your primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, yes, starters serve a purpose.  Yes, yeast nutrient (specifically the zinc component) serve a purpose.  Yes, there may be consequences to not using it in your beer, but no, you may be able to get away with not using it, just don't be alarmed if your fermentation is a little slow to kick off, and doesn't dry out as much as you might expect if you don't use it.  I would recommend using it in both your starter, and your wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T12:01:19.933" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T12:01:19.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12590" CreationDate="2014-07-23T01:31:00.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO it's not a big deal unless you are entering your beer in a competition. However if you want to try to clean it up try whirfloc tablets and maybe get a second vessel to transfer to before bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8024" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T01:31:00.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12622" CreationDate="2014-07-23T01:35:04.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told by my LHBS to only really worry about nutrients if you have a high gravity beer (above 1.060). I believe it has something to do with helping the count of yeast increase (might have been because of the zinc like a previous answer said). However if you use say 2 packets of yeast for 1.060 beer at 23L I don't think you have to worry about a nutrient as much. It's more needed when the count if yeast is low (1 packet kind of situation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8024" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T01:35:04.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12616" CreationDate="2014-07-23T01:38:02.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a simple coopers kit as it's cheap and if you mess up just toss it. Otherwise try an IPA extract recipe. The hops help mask any mistakes you've made. If you haven't already done so it's worth investing in a fridge and temperature controller. It makes the world of difference with the end results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8024" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T01:38:02.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2014-07-23T01:41:45.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My simple rule of thumb for brewing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;primary: 2 weeks &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottle: 3 weeks plus at room temp, standing upright.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Haven't had any issues yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8024" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T01:41:45.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12559" CreationDate="2014-07-23T02:33:05.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done the same thing with a hop sock. I'm pretty sure there nothing in them that could be harmful IMO. I was lucky and did if with an IPA so couldn't taste anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8024" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T02:33:05.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3717" CreationDate="2014-07-23T02:35:57.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a similar issue with a brew. I just shook the crap out of it and 2 weeks later it was carbonated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The better solution would be to add some more priming sugar though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8024" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T02:35:57.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2014-07-23T05:11:35.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know it's not permanent but have you tried duct tape? The silver stuff. It is pretty much a forever thing and much less hassle then etching etc. especially of you make a mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8024" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T05:11:35.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12589" CreationDate="2014-07-23T05:14:50.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple rule: 23L for a 30L vessel. Scale appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows enough room for the head / krausen to form and not overflow (most of the time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8024" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T05:14:50.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12548" CreationDate="2014-07-23T05:20:18.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither has a discernible amount of fat. Unlike oats. With oats the fat lends to the creaminess you taste in say oatmeal stouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8024" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T05:20:18.183" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-23T09:15:43.790" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically I'm looking at doing an extract brew with carapils. Due to issues with time I was going to cold steep the grains and then boil after 24hrs. I'm wondering how much carapils I should get for a 40 pint brew. Would 1kg be ok and what I need to add some dextrose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7885" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T20:25:33.723" Title="Methods for extract brew with crystal malts" Tags="|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12589" CreationDate="2014-07-23T10:11:07.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some kit brewers (including me when I was kit brewing) successfully use the &quot;twocan&quot; method. Two cans, water, and yeast. No sugar, dextrose, corn syrup, light dry malt, etc. As an experiment, I would use the full can, top up with hot/cold water to 13 litres, pitch yeast when wort is at the correct temperature, seal and wait. My experience with several other Cooper's kits suggests you will be pleasantly surprised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T10:11:07.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12549" CreationDate="2014-07-23T12:18:40.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This chart shows the different components of a large variety of different hop types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YLKXN.png&quot; alt=&quot;Chart of hop aroma and bittering components&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://zekeshore.com/hops_v1.12.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Linked file for high resolution)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the chart on &lt;a href=&quot;http://thepapershell.com/hip-hops/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blog post about hops&lt;/a&gt; but actually I originally saw it at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://londonbeerlab.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;London Beer Lab&lt;/a&gt;, who do an awesome course on brewing (we were the audience for their prototype course, which was pretty cool).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, above the line will be flavour and aroma components; below the line is bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alpha acids control bitterness, and are not that volatile.  For that reason, bittering hops are usually added near the beginning of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aroma and flavour (which are kind of the same thing) are modulated by volatile chemicals.  Actually the volatility is the reason they have such a strong effect on this: they evaporate and can reach receptors in the nose.  Their volatility means at higher temperatures, they tend to disappear; flavour and aroma hops are therefore added near the end of the boil (we've used fifteen minutes for flavour and five for aroma).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some hops a lot of alpha acid but not much aroma, and vice versa.  If you use &quot;aromatic&quot; hops for bittering, a lot of the volatile chemicals will boil off and you arguably waste those; if you use high alpha acid hops for aroma, you might not get as strong an aroma, but you probably won't get too much extra alpha acid either because the section of the boil you use them for is comparatively short.  That's about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as you can see from the chart, most hops have a decent amount of both aroma and alpha acids.  Moreover, the aromatic compounds fall into several categories.  So, for example, you might want a specific aromatic note in your beer which happens to be well-served by a &quot;bittering&quot; hop.  In that case, go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to make a google sheets version of this, by the way, so I can work out hop substitutions—there are six degrees of freedom and forty types of hops here, so some substitution &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8011" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T12:18:40.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12729" CreationDate="2014-07-23T14:57:06.817" Score="5" ViewCount="1589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found resources that both advocate and highly advise against this practice.  We recently brewed a IIPA (Bear Flavored's Heady Topper clone) that has 3lbs of hops, plus hop extract in 14 gallons.  We didn't add any gypsum to our 4ppm sulfate water.  I want to make this the best beer possible.  I tried adding untreated gypsum to a prior IIPA (in the glass) and wasn't thrilled with the results.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Why does adding gypsum to the strike water/mash differ from adding it to the glass, or to the beer post fermentation?&#xA;-Would there be any way to mimic adding it to the mash after fermentation?  Maybe making a heavily gypsum-ized starter beer, fermenting it, and blending?&#xA;-What about adding gypsum to boiling water, chilling and adding that to the beer?  Does boiling salts change the way they behave on the palette or diffuse into the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T12:24:02.977" Title="Adding gypsum after fermentation" Tags="|water|gypsum|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12549" CreationDate="2014-07-23T17:15:59.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All hops contribute both aroma and bitterness in varying degrees. Grouping them into 4 hard categories is somewhat arbitrary. In general they are grouped as aroma vs bitterness, but if you wanted to you could simply use more &quot;aroma hops&quot; early in your boil and still end up more bitterness (and vice versa).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T17:15:59.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12589" CreationDate="2014-07-23T17:25:53.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's ok to have less than 20% headspace, you just risk a blowout, meaning it could overflow and make a mess. To counter this problem use a blowoff tube and bucket: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nnbrr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;blowoff tube and bucket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T17:25:53.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12633" CreationDate="2014-07-23T20:25:33.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend cold steeping, at the heat of the water is an important part of extracting all the sugary goodness that is inside the grain. Typically, you'll want to steep the grains in 152F water for at least an hour before you bring the wort to a boil. I have read some forum posts in the past, though, where the wort was left to cool overnight before boiling the next day. Just make sure you take the grains out of the water, or you may get some undesirable off-flavors!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as 1 kg being too much or too little, it really depends on the rest of your recipe and how much extract you will be using. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8030" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T20:25:33.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12616" CreationDate="2014-07-23T20:27:55.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brew whatever you want to drink. I guarantee once you get started, the entire process will become so much easier than you first though it would be. I personally started with an IPA, and never worried. Your stress level will directly correlate with the size pot you have, because boil-overs are typically the biggest issue for a newbie. GL with your brew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8030" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T20:27:55.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12616" CreationDate="2014-07-23T20:55:00.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second Brouwer's suggestion. Assuming you mean entry-level home brewing, i.e. extracts and/or kits, not grinding, mashing, sparging &amp;amp; all that other fun stuff, Cooper's may be a good place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extracts have come a long way in the 45 or so years since I made my first 5-gallon batch. So has the quality of dried yeasts. If you want to be playful/creative, toss some finishing hops in the primary (safely confined in a mesh bag), and if you want to be able to drink the final product, pay special attention to sanitizing everything that comes into contact with your beer. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T20:55:00.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1755" CreationDate="2014-07-24T16:09:54.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the main items (30 minutes isn't that long, cold break, DMS) listed by others, I'll add two other notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Infection: while the boil will sanitize the wort itself, if you leave the wort open to the environment while cooling, you can get airborne bacteria into your sweet sweet liquor and at a nice warm range of temps that will promote growth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hop utilization: &lt;a href=&quot;http://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?21498-Isomerization-temps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Isomerization occurs below 100°C, though it does fall off by half pretty quickly&lt;/a&gt;. Depending on just how slow your cooling rate is, this might be a concern, changing your hop profile, especially for late additions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T16:09:54.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12645" CreationDate="2014-07-24T21:41:33.673" Score="1" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will be modifying a recipe and while I know the alpha % of the bittering hops and this being the first time I'm altering a recipe I'm wondering during the boiling process have I added enough bittering hops or do I need more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I assume that 30 minutes into a 60 minute boil the wort should be twice as bitter at the end of the boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say I haven't added enough bittering hops, what can I do?&#xA;What if I've added to much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I&quot;m trying to find out if I can use any guidelines while the boil is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe is the northern brewer dead ringer (all-grain) with cascade hops (10% alpha).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3575" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T12:47:55.740" Title="Testing bitterness during boil" Tags="|hops|recipe|boil|bittering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12644" CreationDate="2014-07-24T23:43:35.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realbeer.com/hops/research.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bitterness is not linear throughout the boil&lt;/a&gt;, so you cannot assume that it will be twice as bitter after 60 minutes vs. 30 minutes.  I'm also not sure that you're going to get a great sense of the bitterness in the partially-boiled wort vs. the finished beer, but I don't have a really compelling argument as to why not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm not understanding something about your question. If you have a recipe that adds A amount of B AA% hops at time C to achieve a computed IBU value D … why not use those parameters to figure out what you need to do for your modified recipe?  If you want more IBUs, then adjust. If you're using different hops with a different AA%, then adjust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least from what I've seen from other brewers, this is something you adjust brew-to-brew, not within a brew itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-07-25T12:47:55.740" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T12:47:55.740" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-26T01:16:56.307" Score="14" ViewCount="913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read a couple of questions here regarding uses for spent grain, but I'm curious if anyone has ever used it in a meat smoker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="182" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T11:56:40.363" Title="Using spent grains to smoke meat" Tags="|grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12657" CreationDate="2014-07-26T16:11:31.730" Score="0" ViewCount="4188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned about cleaning my fermenter with PBW.  The crystals seem hard &amp;amp; sharp and take a while to dissolve. I don't want to scratch the bucket. Am I doing it wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T20:58:04.177" Title="Should I clean plastic fermenters wth PBW" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12650" CreationDate="2014-07-26T16:32:19.800" Score="2" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a recipe that calls for adding a gallon of cold brewed coffee in the secondary. The comments have described how to cold brew it, but I was wondering, do I need to add the grounds plus the gallon, or just the spent grounds? I don't want to dilute the beer with an extra gallon, but would still like to get the flavor of the coffee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T16:52:56.967" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T16:52:56.967" Title="Cold brewed coffee" Tags="|adjuncts|coffee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12649" CreationDate="2014-07-26T17:32:41.753" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not add the grounds.  Add the liquid.  And a gal. sounds like WAY too much.  When I make a coffee beer, generally a cup or two of strong coffee is plenty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T17:32:41.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5040" CreationDate="2014-07-27T00:35:12.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just before washing, I rub off excess soot on the grass,it comes off easily and then use a steelo pad, scourer and soapy water or whatever other method you choose to use. This saves your dishcloth and your bench getting dirty as we all know how hard it is to remove these marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8035" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T00:35:12.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12648" CreationDate="2014-07-27T03:46:45.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, dissolved/dissolving PBW will not scratch your plastic fermenters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T03:46:45.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12653" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12654" CreationDate="2014-07-27T06:52:06.543" Score="0" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I need to attach a disconnect to my kegs to take a sample I first spray the disconnect and post down with star san. After I have taken a sample and removed the disconnect I spray the post down one more time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is pretty tedious. Is this over kill? Will my beer survive to live another glorious tasty day if I skip this practice?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T15:42:35.687" Title="Should I sanitize my keg posts every time I attach a quick disconnect?" Tags="|kegging|sanitation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12653" CreationDate="2014-07-27T14:27:14.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a bad idea. When flowing, the post is pushed down, then liquid covers the whole head of the post.  If that head was previously exposed to the world, and/or has dried-up beer on it from previous use, then that can get into your serving lines, glass, growler, bottles, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a spray bottle of star-san at the ready, it shouldn't be that tedious to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T14:27:14.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2014-07-27T14:35:28.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Light destroys wine. Simple as that. White wine doesn't last long anyway, so light doesn't get a chance to do much harm, red wine is harder to ruin but we also keep it longer. The way it happens is that UV sunlight actually causes a chemical reaction in the wine which ruins its taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays a lot of bottle manufacturers also make UVAG bottles. Generally, the darker the bottle, the better. Even though a red wine's tanins protect it from sunlight, because we tend to store red wine much longer, it is vital to protect it, especially from UV rays. The second best choice (after UVAG) is the brownish bottles, which are actually better than green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8036" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T14:35:28.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12648" CreationDate="2014-07-27T15:00:51.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do just with room temp water, my blichmann boil kettle I usually get the water around 140-160F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3575" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T15:00:51.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12648" CreationDate="2014-07-27T15:29:15.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you do not begin abrasive scrubbing until the PBW crystals are dissolved, PBW should not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me differentiate between HDPE plastic bucket fermenters and PET carboys (like Better Bottle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that I don't need anything other than hot tap water, a soft sponge, and a slight amount of elbow grease to clean HDPE bucket fermenters. Exposure to PBW for a short time shouldn't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is not recommended to use PBW or Oxy-based cleaners for PET carboys because it causes stress corrosion, and eventually will lead to clouding or failure of the PET carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better Bottle recommends using Free &amp;amp; Clear Natural 2X Seventh Generation detergent, an enzyme based cleaner in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.better-bottle.com/pdf/WashingSanitizingStudy.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this study of the effects of various cleansers&lt;/a&gt;. What works for me is adding a small amount of hot tap water, a small amount of cleanser, and a washcloth, and rolling the carboy on the counter or floor. The washcloth rubs off all of the krausen rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: it is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; recommended to use PBW or Oxy on PET.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T20:58:04.177" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T20:58:04.177" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12653" CreationDate="2014-07-27T15:42:35.687" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, yes you should.  Longer answer, I often don't and haven't had any problems.  Like many things in brewing, there's best practice and then there's what you can get away with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T15:42:35.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12586" CreationDate="2014-07-27T16:38:50.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been making wine for many years and recently beer.  I always sanitize anything that may come in contact with the wine or beer at any point in the process.  Contamination is something cannot be undone, you are better safe than sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T16:38:50.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7491" CreationDate="2014-07-29T17:53:42.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a nice sized patio and a very small house with no AC and very old (1947) wall heater. my place is usually very hot or very cold (for us out here in So Cal, very moderate for you northerners :)&#xA;that said, I ALWAYS ferment outside, but my bucket never sees the sun. I put it in a storage bin from Target filled with water. the water in the bin seems to stay at about 70F no matter what time of year. I have yet to have a complaint about my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T17:53:42.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12664" CreationDate="2014-07-29T19:05:38.970" Score="0" ViewCount="15124" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this is my first attempt at brewing my own beer.  I am using a kit from &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://craftabrew.com/collections/starter-kits/products/starter-kit-bone-dry-irish-stout-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://craftabrew.com/collections/starter-kits/products/starter-kit-bone-dry-irish-stout-2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bottled the brew last night after mixing the fermented beer with a 1.5 cups of water and 2 Tbl of sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bottled it with 16 oz PET bottles because it was what I could get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even this morning I noticed that there has definitely been pressure built up in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When do I know it is ready to drink. I am have a bbq this Sat and it would be nice to sample some but the kit recommended two weeks in the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8044" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T19:46:51.243" Title="How do I know when bottle carbonation is done?" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12661" CreationDate="2014-07-29T19:32:10.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It usually takes 2 weeks for the beer to carbonate in the bottle.  There's no way of knowing if the beer is carbonated from only looking at it, I mean, some times you could see some bubbles inside but it's not always the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just wait for 2 weeks and open a bottle... There you will know...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T19:32:10.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12661" CreationDate="2014-07-29T19:49:17.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideal method; after 2 weeks, take one bottle and stick it in the fridge over night. The following day, open it and pour a glass. If it is flat or under carbonated, wait a few days or another week, and repeat the process until you are happy with the carbonation. If there is some reason to suspect over carbonation (you think you used too much priming sugar or you bottled before fermentation was complete, or you are new); use shorter intervals, like start after one week and if you find it is overcarbonated, move the entire batch to the fridge to help prevent exploding bottles. In my experience, the carbonation is different at serving temps so it's important to allow the bottle to chill. In some cases, it will change even more after 48 hours in the fridge, so might be a good idea to put 2 bottles in, taste one after 24 hours and one after 48 hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T19:49:17.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12661" CreationDate="2014-07-29T20:25:49.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to relax, keep calm and wait 2 more weeks to drink your homebrew, you can open one bottle every time you think its done. But it will cost you so much flat beers. The best option is wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want something to monitor your carbing without open bottles every time, you can use a bottle pressure gauge to measure the pressure of one sample bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZS48E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZS48E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flip-top bottle example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.instructables.com/F0G/TCNO/GGAOW15C/F0GTCNOGGAOW15C.MEDIUM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructables.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is adaptors to many types of bottles. There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/Brewing-Pressure-Gauge-in-a-Bail-Top-Bottle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; with a instructable of this example above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could fill one plastic bottle. While the yeast produces CO2, the bottle turns more pressurized. PET bottles allow you to squeeze it and see how much you can deform it. If you do this in every batch, you will learn the right time to open the other ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a question about that here in stackexchange:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2915/is-there-anyway-to-tell-if-a-glass-bottle-of-beer-is-carbonated-without-opening&quot;&gt;Is there anyway to tell if a glass bottle of beer is carbonated without opening it?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the search to find what you want here before ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T19:46:51.243" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T19:46:51.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12666" CreationDate="2014-07-29T22:38:00.613" Score="2" ViewCount="5814" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing a fat tire clone, forgot to add whirfloc tablet / irish moss... I'm 5 days into primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would everyone recommend? Add something, skip it, ???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7992" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T19:48:05.223" Title="Forgot to add whirfloc / irish moss to wort during boil" Tags="|clarification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12665" CreationDate="2014-07-30T02:45:32.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this point, neither of those fining agents will work.  They both require a good, rolling boil.  If you're going for clarity, Your best bet now is to let it mature for another couple of weeks and then cold crash the beer by refrigerating it as near as to freezing as you can get it (without actually freezing it), and let it sit for a couple of weeks/months.  You can cold condition the beer in the bottles after they've carbonated, to the same effect as doing it in bulk with the carboy/bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are kegging, you can easily add fining agents after chilling the beer such as gelatin or isinglass to help drop out chill haze as well as residual yeast and polyphenols.  If dietary concerns are a problem regarding those two agents (kosher or veganism, respectively), you may consider polyclar, just be aware you'll want to rack the beer off the polyclar before kegging.  No one likes drinking plastic.  Another option of course is to filter, but I assume you, like many home brewers do not own a filtering setup.  You may be able to employ any of these fining agents/techniques with bottling, you'll just want to add yeast back into the batch at bottling to ensure there is enough yeast to carbonate the bottles without having to wait a month or two instead of the regular 1-2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/12/30/fining-agents-improving-beer-clarity/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is an article&lt;/a&gt; containing all the information you'd need to fine the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T02:45:32.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12665" CreationDate="2014-07-30T03:28:12.193" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've hardly ever added clarifying agents (irish moss, whirlfloc, &amp;amp;c.) to my beers. I don't secondary, I regularly do a 2 week primary, then rack into keg. I usually pour perfectly clear beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relax. Don't worry. Have a homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T03:28:12.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10257" CreationDate="2014-07-30T05:32:07.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple of additional notes and things to think about with the chest freezer.  To use the freezer most efficiently I use the following process with 5 gallon batches.  A few days prior to brew day I put 14 gallons of water into the freeze.  7 will be taken out for the brew, a bit for the starter and the rest for the batch. Once the batch is cooked up it goes back into the chest freezer with the 7 pre-chilled gallons.  The extra water adds thermal mass to the freezer, will help keeps temperatures more stable, and will ease the power bill.  After about 3 weeks of fermentation, I will brew my next batch using the crash cooling of the first batch to keep the initial fermentation temp. of batch 2 under control. and so the process repeats.  Biggest drawback to the freezer is that it's not easy to lift a full carboy or bucket out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8045" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T05:32:07.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10257" CreationDate="2014-07-30T11:51:37.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @mastaberry noted at the end of his comment, an important thing to keep in mind when consider a fridge versus a freezer, is that if you get a freezer you will either need to be in physical shape to be able to lift the bucket/carboy into the freezer, or have the space to set up a pulley system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great place to look for chests freezers is craigslist, especially during the summer. For whatever reason people don't need their old chest freezer during the summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8030" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:51:37.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12665" CreationDate="2014-07-30T11:56:47.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not one to care too much about the clarity of your beer, then it won't matter at all . Just proceed as normal on bottling day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do care about the clarity of your beer, your options are to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/cold-crashing-142168/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cold crash&lt;/a&gt; and use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2012/06/how-to-clear-your-beer-with-gelatin.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gelatin finings&lt;/a&gt;, or just cold crash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8030" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:56:47.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9493" CreationDate="2014-07-30T13:24:25.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The product is no longer available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Subject:    Regarding Case #:22090857 &#xA;Date:   29 Jul 2014 11:08:38 -0400&#xA;From:   Coors Light Online &amp;lt;CoorsLightOnline@CASupport.com&amp;gt;&#xA;To:     &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Thank you for contacting MillerCoors.&#xA;&#xA;Unfortunately, Coors Light Home Draft was discontinued due to lack of consumer demand. &#xA;Sales simply did not warrant production. It was good of you to share your interest in this &#xA;product and perhaps you may be interested in trying another MillerCoors brand.&#xA;&#xA;We appreciate your interest in our products.&#xA;&#xA;Sincerely,&#xA;&#xA;MillerCoors Consumer Affairs Department&#xA;Ref: Case#N22090857&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T13:24:25.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12675" CreationDate="2014-07-30T18:11:46.587" Score="2" ViewCount="2720" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making an IPA and I'm going to be dry hopping it this weekend in the secondary fermentation phase. I've been thinking about the dry hopping process alot, mainly about the diffusion of the hoppiness throughout the beer during this phase. I plan on putting the pellets in a nylon sachet to keep them contained for easy removal, but by doing this is it possible that the beer immediately surrounding the sachet will be more hopped than the rest of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And should I stir it lightly in order to make sure there is more even hopping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how can I be sure the dry hopping won't contaminate my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7979" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T18:46:04.523" Title="Should dry hopped beer be lightly stirred prior to bottling?" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|ipa|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12673" CreationDate="2014-07-30T18:45:37.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no need to stir your beer after dry hopping. Especially when you consider, that in your scenario, you will definitely be racking the beer yet before it reaches it's final storage destination (keg/bottle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RE: contamination, just make sure your sachet is sanitized, and when you open the sealed hop bag, use sanitized hands/scissors, and then pour the hops right into the sachet or fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, using a nylon sachet is a great practice for reducing the amount of hop debris in your final product. Also, if you ever have difficulty placing or hanging the bag into the fermenter, you can always leverage the same bag when transferring your beer to keg/bottling bucket instead, placing the output of your siphon tubing into the sachet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T18:45:37.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12673" CreationDate="2014-07-30T18:46:04.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While some claim that the addition of hops to their beer have contributed to contamination, it is quite rare considering how hops are anti-microbial in nature.  While not having any way of confirming it, I would suspect contamination on those situations occurred due to some other unsanitary practice (didn't sanitize the bag, weights, or it was already infected before dry-hopping, etc).  If you're concerned about contamination, you could soak them briefly in vodka, sterilize your hop bag using Star-San (or even the vodka if you can get sufficient coverage on the bag), add the hops to the bag, and pour the hop-infused vodka into the beer along with the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't have to stir the beer.  Doing so would simply kick up the yeast and proteins that have settled out, resulting in more cloudy beer.  When you go to rack the beer off into a keg or to your bottling bucket, it'll get sufficiently stirred during the racking, especially if you are bottling and adding sugar in bulk to the beer before pouring off into bottles, since you'd need to stir in the sugar anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T18:46:04.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2014-07-31T09:34:55.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a designer specialising in wine packaging and I can say that, with the exception of 'great' wines, most decisions about glass are made on purely aesthetic or economic grounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great wines that are always aged for long periods are stored in green or brown glass to limit the damage caused by light over time. Wines like the Grand Crus of Bordeaux which are predominantly red, the great whites (and reds) of Burgundy, Champagne, the reds of Rioja Reserva and Gran Reserva, the great red wines of Tuscany, and the humungous Cabernets and Merlots of California. These are vintage wines which will live in their bottles for anything from between 5 and upwards of 50 years. Even though these wines are normally stored in wooden cases in dark cellars or temperature controlled warehouses, light damage over these long periods is a real possibility, hence the darkened glass. Of course, given the traditional nature of the product, traditional packaging is expected by the consumer, even though modern wine bottles can be coated with a UV filter so dark glass is now less relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wines which will be drunk quickly, in a year or two after harvest have no need of UV protection. You will still see whites in green glass, especially from 'classic' wine regions, and you will also see occasionally reds in clear glass, though in this latter case the glass will have probably been UV treated as even, though such wines will be drunk young, they will likely sit in full light on supermarket shelves for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8048" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T09:34:55.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-31T19:49:15.640" Score="3" ViewCount="839" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aaau4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed a 5-gallon batch of Frankenberry Chocolate Raspberry Stout July 20 (11 days ago) using a Scottish Ale Wyeast. The yeast was pitched at 78 degrees, everything was sanitary, I immediately placed the airlock on the plastic fermenter where it is now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EXCEPT my husband didn't seal the lid on the primary, just had it sitting on there, closed, but not sealed. No activity in the airlock, small, white filmy bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I take a gravity reading? It smells very yeasty. I'm hoping it is just suspended yeast? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My last batch of this turned out great, no problem with fermentation.!I'm supposed to add raspberry puree at the 14 day mark. Didn't want the added expense if it's contaminated, though. Here is a picture: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8052" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:32:42.970" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:32:42.970" Title="Raspberry Stout contamination?" Tags="|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12677" CreationDate="2014-07-31T21:14:34.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;White filmy bubbles&quot; don't on their own sound like biological contamination , especially after 11 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not worry too much about the lid of the bucket not being completely sealed. So long as it was basically closed, that should prevent any active organisms (flies, bugs, &amp;amp;c.) from getting in. Airborne bacteria and other spoiling agents can't really travel &quot;up&quot; and around obstructions (eg. Pasteur's swan-neck flask experiment). The lack of a solid &quot;seal&quot; would also explain the lack of airlock activity, as the CO₂ had alternate means of escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it smell bad?  Does a (sanitary-ily retrieved) sample taste okay? Then it's probably good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T16:17:26.997" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T16:17:26.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12679" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-01T15:38:20.100" Score="0" ViewCount="837" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week I brewed an Arrogant Bastard clone. My pre-boil gravity was off by .001 so I was pretty happy with that... But my OG (post-boil) was off by .009! I thought that because my pre-boil gravity was so close to the original (estimated), my OG will result as well in a closer number to the estimated OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My boil was vigorous and I boiled for 90 min (as the recipe stated) so I have no idea what could have interfered in reaching my estimated OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. My gravity measurements were taken at the same temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T22:06:08.133" Title="Trouble Reaching My OG (Pre-Boil Was OK)" Tags="|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-01T18:04:18.733" Score="1" ViewCount="1520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have more experience with infusions and other ferments. I'm ready to delve into beer making without buying an expensive kit. What's the best way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8053" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T22:13:35.340" Title="Are there ways to make your own beer on the cheap?" Tags="|beer|techniques|process|beginner|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12680" CreationDate="2014-08-01T20:56:58.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The more you do (the less others do for you) and the more you buy the cheaper it will be.  Go all-grain, grind your own grain, buy in bulk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you can store them properly, begin buying base malts and hops in larger volumes.  Since you'll likely have only a few malt varieties on hand, you 'll need to adjust your recipes to use the base malts you have or adjust your brew schedule to make beers that use those malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T20:56:58.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12249" CreationDate="2014-08-01T21:41:59.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your pH is that high in your water you'll want to lower it.  pH that high will stop conversion/make it take longer.  Look at using salts to add base to the water, also make sur eyou are using campden tablets to remove the chlorine and chloramine from your tap water if that what you brew with, yeast hate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8054" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T21:41:59.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6141" CreationDate="2014-08-02T05:28:06.230" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;regular and powder are not the same. with powder you use way less than with regular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8055" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T05:28:06.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12684" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-02T06:44:30.980" Score="1" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have trouble with controlling temps and do not have much room for my growing collection of fermentation bins but I'm trying the swamp cooler for my 5L DemiJohn white wine kit. I'm gonna get some new ale/lagers on the go but I 'd like to know if the Mangrove Jack M10 Workhorse yeast which can ferment up to 32c would produce less fusels as it's able to hit higher temps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7885" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T21:09:45.767" Title="Will a yeast that ferments at higher temps stop fusels?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12684" CreationDate="2014-08-02T15:35:25.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it won't.  Yeast companies generally overestimate the high end temps.  They tell you where the yeast will work best, not necessarily the temps that make the best beers.  And no matter what the high end is, you'll always get better results by pitching at the low end (or below) of the stated temp range.  The first 72 hours are the most critical.  If you can keep the temps in the mid 60s for the first few days, after that it doesn't matter nearly as much.  Pitching at 32c almost guarantees fusels, no matter what strain of yeast you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T15:35:25.327" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12693" CreationDate="2014-08-02T17:53:30.380" Score="6" ViewCount="1650" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently given a 5L oak barrel from &lt;a href=&quot;http://oakbarrelsltd.com/&quot;&gt;Oak Barrels Ltd.&lt;/a&gt; and I've never used such a thing before and have some basic questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The barrel came with a great little &lt;a href=&quot;https://oakbarrelsltd.com/files/Instructions%20&amp;amp;%20Barrel%20Prep.pdf&quot;&gt;instruction guide&lt;/a&gt; which talks about basic barrel prep, sanitation, and storage (among other things). Also on their website they link to this article by Terry Terfinko from 1995 titled, &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://realbeer.com/spencer/Experiments/oak-barrel.html&quot;&gt;Oak Barrel Experiment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, which answers a lot of questions about beer making with barrels. However there are a few pieces of the puzzle missing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5L (1.3 gal) vs 5 gal: I have 5 gallon batch equipment currently. Should I invest in some stuff like 1 gallon carboys and mini auto-siphons for smaller batches? Should I scale recipes which are for 5 gal down to smaller sizes by just dividing everything by 5? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The instruction guide mentions the idea of &quot;topping off&quot; the barrel from time to time. This is because of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barrel#Angels.27_share&quot;&gt;Angel's share&lt;/a&gt;, that being the beer/wine/whiskey that evaporates during the aging process. So how do I do this with beer? Do I need to keep some extra beer around somewhere (refrigerated?) maybe in growlers or something? This may play into the answer to the first question about batch size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've been doing extract brewing (with grain bags in there too) so far and don't have all grain equipment, I assume that won't be a problem. I guess the question is, will it (be a problem)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any suggestions on kind of beer to make? I thought stuff like a Russian imperial stout or Scotch Ale or some other strong ale might be good. But most of those say to age for 6 months minimum and the guide suggests 4-6 weeks aging for the 5L barrel. Maybe just some basic brown ale for the first time, since they're usually pretty cheap and easy to make.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for taking the time to read this longer post. I'm excited to start trying this thing out but without answers to some of these questions, I'm a bit nervous about messing it up (I know, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/RDWHAHB&quot;&gt;RDWHAHB&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3887" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T10:06:43.877" Title="Using 5L oak barrel for beer" Tags="|beer|aging|small-batch|oak|barrel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12684" CreationDate="2014-08-02T21:09:45.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The higher the fermentation temp, the greater your chances of fusels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T21:09:45.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12686" CreationDate="2014-08-02T21:47:30.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I wouldn't bother getting smaller equipment. Assuming you brew 5 gallon batches, why not just ferment your beer as usual, then move 1.3 gallons into the barrel, and bottle the remaining 3.7 gallons?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a small 1L barrel filled with rum. Over the last 6th months, I've lost about 1/2 of it (due to seepage, not evaporation). My barrel is physically leaking. Depending on how long you want to keep your beer in the barrel, it may be a good idea to keep a couple bottles of beer (non-carbonated) around in order to top it off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Won't be a problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd personally suggest a heavy or dark beer. I have another 5G barrel in which I'm currently aging a Coffee Chocolate Stout.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6777" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T21:47:30.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12249" CreationDate="2014-08-02T21:52:24.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd agree with some of the above answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try a new thermometer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try lowering your mash temperatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6777" LastEditorUserId="6777" LastEditDate="2015-11-12T00:22:17.053" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T00:22:17.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-03T05:33:14.963" Score="3" ViewCount="2952" Body="&lt;p&gt;My pressure barrel stopped pouring even though it was 3/4 full, the only way to rectify was to release some gas from the top.&quot;Was I right to do this, if not what alternative do I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8060" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T15:27:24.837" Title="My pressure barrel stopped pouring even though 3/4 full" Tags="|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12686" CreationDate="2014-08-03T12:18:52.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First I would stick with 5 gallon equipment and brew half sized batches.  Barrel half and bottle the other half.  Then you have side by side comparators.  I don't think worrying about angel's share is a concern.  With such a small barrel the surface contact to volume ratio is going to be huge.  The first few batches will likely develop huge oak flavors very quickly.  You may be pulling the batch out for packaging before you've really lost much of the beer. Depending on how much this small barrel breaths there will be significant oxidation if not left too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The barrel doesn't care whether the beer was made by extract or all grain.  Good beer is good beer. You are brewing good beer right?  Lastly beers like browns, porters and stouts are a good place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the barrel looses some of its wood character lightening the profile to reds and pales would be good choices.  I'd think a very strong beer at first going in would be a good idea because the fresh oak character will come on quickly.  So you'll need a brew that will stand up to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-08-03T15:38:23.557" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T15:38:23.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12680" CreationDate="2014-08-03T12:26:26.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After startup cost of equipment, ingredients can be cheap if you brew within a somewhat narrow style range and buy ingredients in bulk.  That said you can almost eliminate startup costs if you choose to brew in smaller batch sizes that allows you to use equipment you already have.  Like your largest stock pot and you sink for chilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you get better at the entire brewing process saving and repitching yeast saves on cost as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said it isn't the cheapest hobby as we all tend to keep expanding our efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T12:26:26.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12680" CreationDate="2014-08-03T18:12:38.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you decide to go all grain (which frankly I don't recommend until you have a bit of experience with extract brewing), check out my &quot;Cheap'n'Easy&quot; system at www.dennybrew.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T18:12:38.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12612" CreationDate="2014-08-04T15:02:55.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast is usually categorised by how well they flocculate, the esters and phenols they release and the attenuation you can expect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;standard&quot; American yeast (US05) is descibed as &quot;clean&quot;, whereas your &quot;standard&quot; British yeast (S04) is described as fruity. Your weiss yeasts would be very fruity with high banana and spicy with clove. A lager yeast might be identifiable by the amount of sulphur that it releases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/brewing/homebrewing/product-range/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fermentis Site&lt;/a&gt; has product sheets that explain aromas, flavours, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never worked with liquid yeast (not cost effective to ship in), but I am sure that White Labs, Wyeast has areas on their sites where they explain the details of each strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lasty: Experience. Brew many beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T15:02:55.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-04T15:20:21.000" Score="1" ViewCount="797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 5 gallons of RIS that I just kegged to bulk age until December. My plan is to age it before cold crashing / gelatin to give it the most time to really fill out in flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that the right method, or should I cold crash and gel it and then age it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7960" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T18:51:03.390" Title="Cold crash / Gelatin before or after aging?" Tags="|stout|aging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12697" CreationDate="2014-08-04T18:00:05.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold crashing is about clearing up the beer. It encourages the yeast and other protein to drop out of solution and fall to the bottom. Ideally you would cold crash in your secondary fermentor and then transfer it to the final vessel (keg or bottle) for aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the timeline would be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Primary Fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secondary Fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bulk Aging (basically extended #2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold Crash (with or without gelatin)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle condition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6716" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T18:00:05.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12697" CreationDate="2014-08-04T18:51:03.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally age the beer on the yeast cake 7 to 21 days after fermentation is complete, at fermentation temperatures.  (Typically I ferment in the 65-67F range.)  The flavor of all beers change during this time, but it is very noticeable with Porters and Stouts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because there are so many variables, it's really impossible to give an exact aging time.  My suggestion is to taste it, and actually observe the changes in flavor.  (I really didn't care for the flavor of the first porter I brewed, but after three weeks it was very very nice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note though, clarifying agents like gelatin work by bonding with haze forming proteins which make them settle more quickly to the bottom of the keg / fermentor / bottle.  If you are going to keep this keg cold (as in a degree or two above freezing) until December, you probably can skip the gelatin because with that length of time even the cloudiest of beers should clear on their own.  (Just don't shake the keg!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8064" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T18:51:03.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12680" CreationDate="2014-08-04T19:31:01.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a great hobby if your goal is to save money on beer costs. It takes a long time to recoup the cost of equipment when you save pennies per glass. And there is always more equipment to try...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, the cheapest and lowest risk way to get into the hobby with making one-gallon batches. You can get a one-gallon recipe/ingredient kit from Northern Brewer for $12.50, before tax and shipping. Check your local homebrew store (LHBS). Buy a one-gallon container of apple juice at the grocery store that has a recycling symbol 2 on it. Other supplies you will need from the LHBS include a $0.50 grommet for an airlock, a $1.50 airlock, and the smallest bottle of Star-San or Iodophor that they have (should be about $8), and about four feet of PVC tubing ($2). You need a 1.75 gallon spaghetti pot and a large metal stirring spoon from your kitchen. And you will need a kitchen thermometer that can read between 50-80°F at a minimum -- a meat thermometer can work. When you are ready to bottle, you will either need swing-top bottles, or a bottle capper and caps ($15).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drink the juice. Drill a hole in the lid of the juice big enough to fir the grommet. Watch Northern Brewer's video on one-gallon brewing on youtube, and then brew according to the directions that came in the recipe/ingredient kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it may be cheaper to spend $50 to buy the one-gallon beer making equipment kit from Northern Brewer, which comes with on free recipe/ingredient kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T19:31:01.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-04T19:48:16.257" Score="1" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a question about gear more than brewing, per se... I'm wondering if a particular component exists...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find a connector suitable for my system that will allow me to disconnect my vessels simply by pulling out the tubing - so the removal of the tube triggers the closure of a valve in the connector. Without going into too much detail, the system I'm considering at the moment will essentially require two inline closing mechanisms for each vessel so I'd rather have one tap and an auto-close connector. If such a thing doesn't exist I might reconsider my approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a garden hose/spray gun connector that does exactly this but it's not really suitable for potable water - when you disconnect the spray gun the water flow stops even when still under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T20:03:01.053" Title="Push fit auto close valve connector required" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12701" CreationDate="2014-08-04T20:03:01.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-quick-disconnect-hose-couplings/=t4xzxl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's McMaster-Carr's selection of quick-disconnect fittings&lt;/a&gt;. In the filters on the left, you'll find a filter for &quot;Flow: with shut-off valve&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of options that are rated for liquid and have an integrated shut-off valve, but I think you'll find them all to be wicked expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T20:03:01.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9270" CreationDate="2014-08-05T07:08:34.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flaked corn does lighten the body. Body is basically thick malty sweetness, so thinning out that malty sweetness with something that ferments completely lightens the body. (I'm not sure why Tobias is suggesting adding alcohol without sweetness doesn't lighten the body, diluting the sweetness with alcohol, or water, or anything non-sweet is the definition of lighting the body.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flaked corn does not actually completely ferment, close but not completely, like corn sugar does. Because it does not completely ferment it does add some corn flavor to the beer. It will lighten the body except in the case of beers already overloaded with sugars. The yeast will generally eat the flaked corn before barley because it has a higher sugar to starch ratio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8067" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T07:08:34.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9270" CreationDate="2014-08-05T16:53:10.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One reason is that there are some beer styles that rely on the corn flavor: for example, the Classic American Pilsner, aka Pre-Prohibition Pilsner, gets a lot of its flavor character from corn: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bjcp.org/2008styles/style02.php#1c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP style description&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T16:53:10.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12708" CreationDate="2014-08-07T07:57:18.100" Score="2" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a gallon of peach wine sitting in peach pulp for a little over a month. It is in a carboy with an airlock seal. Would it be okay to rack it and continue letting it age? Or did the continued presence of the fruit mess it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7963" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T15:51:20.047" Title="Wine fermenting with fruit in it after a month" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2014-08-07T14:03:49.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using those vacuum bags used to reduce the volume of clothes, like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oA9HQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first decided to use this when I had 13Kg of malt that was getting old, and already had some bugs (I don't know how they are called in english). Since they need oxygen to survive (and this bag removes it all), after a few hours, I could see them trying to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;. This is how it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C7sSS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8038" LastEditorUserId="8038" LastEditDate="2014-09-18T20:55:24.103" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T20:55:24.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12710" CreationDate="2014-08-07T15:45:43.867" Score="1" ViewCount="1305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I racked my IPA into a sanitized carboy onto the hops I'm using for dry hopping, the airlock had been still for about 2 day before the racking. But now its in the secondary the airlock started up again, almost faster than before. What's going on in there? I left it in primary for full week, why would it suddenly start releasing so much CO2 again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7979" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T16:04:16.003" Title="Airlock started bubbling after racking into secondary and dryhopping, why?" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|secondary|airlock|ipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12705" CreationDate="2014-08-07T15:51:20.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have limited experience with fermenting fruits except for the orange mead I make. I recently made a batch that I left on the fruit for more than 3 months. It tastes fantastic and is perfectly clear, bottling it this weekend. As long as you pasteurized the pulp and made sure everything was clean and sanitary, then I don't see how it could be messed up. You might get a more peachy flavour from it, but who doesn't like peaches? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7979" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T15:51:20.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12711" CreationDate="2014-08-07T15:58:25.607" Score="4" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a beer 2 weeks ago and had 2 liters of yeast starter I made for it. I used about 1.5 liters and saved the rest for later in a sanitized jar in the fridge. Is the starter still fine? Is there anything I need to do before using it again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T16:17:12.103" Title="Saving a yeast starter" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12707" CreationDate="2014-08-07T16:04:16.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermented beer contains somewhere around 0.8 volumes of CO₂. When you rack to secondary, you're certainly causing some (however minimal) agitation of the beer, which will cause some CO₂ to be released. You may also be changing temperature, which might cause some CO₂ to be released. And dry-hopping is going to give tons of nucleation sites for CO₂, which will cause some to be released. Depending on the length of primary, it also simply might not have been finished fermenting, and rousing some yeast up during the racking process might get them going again to finish the beer off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T16:04:16.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12709" CreationDate="2014-08-07T16:17:12.103" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The starter is still good in that time. Very roughly, a 2L starter, presumably from a vial or smack pack, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&quot;&gt;probably netted you between&lt;/a&gt; 200bn and 400bn cells. If you used 3/4 of it, you probably have 50-100bn cells left … about the amount in a smack pack/vial. As such, you should probably make a new starter from the remains of the previous one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T16:17:12.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-07T20:39:15.740" Score="1" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that too warm a fermentation createds &quot;fusely&quot; beer. What are they and how can I tell if I have this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7979" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T20:39:15.740" Title="What are the characteristics of a fusely beer?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-08-08T11:44:10.657" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12737" CreationDate="2014-08-10T08:07:42.827" Score="3" ViewCount="314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been to 3 Home Depots in my area searching for the metallic components to construct a mash tun out of a water cooler. I could not find stainless steel, only galvanized or black steel. They a copper ball valve but not any other components. They did have lead-free brass, but not in the sizes I was looking for (3/4&quot; coupling, pipe nipple, etc). Two Ace Hardwares and one True Value did not either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which stores carry them? I want to build this tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T16:51:16.370" Title="Which Stores carry the metal connectors for constructing a Mash Tun?" Tags="|all-grain|mash-tun|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12714" CreationDate="2014-08-10T12:54:43.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many mail-order or online places to get these components, but local hardware stores will typically not have everything you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be a specialty plumbing store near you or a Grainger Industrial Supply type store near you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that does not work, you can order online from sites like bargainfittings.com or fittingsandadapters.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T12:54:43.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12679" CreationDate="2014-08-10T13:02:51.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that you took your gravity readings with a refractometer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refractometer measurements are very sensitive to extra drops of water that stick around in your pipette or on the refractometer itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, lets say you pull 4 drops of wort into a pipette that has one drop of water, your reading will be off by 20%!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good practice for gravity readings by refractometer is to &quot;rinse&quot; the pipette with wort (throw that wort away), then take a second sample and measure that on the completely dry refractometer prism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T13:02:51.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12890" CreationDate="2014-08-10T19:34:25.030" Score="3" ViewCount="11191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been doing a few BIAB brews with some success, but the only issue I have is I only have a 19L stock pot, so can only do half batches (2.5 gal). I was therefore wondering if anyone had done a small sparge step after the initial mash to increase the volume, and if so, what method have you used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3864" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T18:39:12.993" Title="Sparging with BIAB?" Tags="|sparge|biab|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12717" CreationDate="2014-08-10T21:19:58.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sparging is done to rinse more of the sugars out of the grist which makes more efficient use of the grains, but that's kind of the trade off with BIAB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably could heat up more water and dunk your bag into it to get more sugar out, but you are still ultimately limited to the size of your boil kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6716" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T21:19:58.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-11T05:01:56.063" Score="0" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's my first time making cider and I believe I didn't put enough sugar in it. I put 1 1/2 brown sugar (Even though some fell off to the side cause I didn't dissolve it, like the twit I am). I would say that MAYBE a cup of brown sugar is in there. Regardless, I read that it may just make it drier but I wanted to know if this may effect the fermentation process. Also, I had to open it during the first few hours to drain some out cause it was about to pop the cap open (overfilled it, we're talking 1 gallon of pure apple juice here, plus sugar, plus the foam from the fermentation). I was worried it would cause an explosion, but even though it seems to be in control, I'm worried that I may have damaged the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is it 4 hours into the process (About an hour after I had to drain it): &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VVzZW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VVzZW.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is it 8 hours or so into the process: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bJcYT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bJcYT.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do y'all think? Is it off or ok? I'm thinking it may just be some bits from the process as I read but who knows. Also, there's a pile of sugar at the bottom of the jar, should I give the bottle a little shake or will that mess up the process and allow oxygen in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;Adrian&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8078" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T11:50:20.370" Title="Too little sugar?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|cider|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12714" CreationDate="2014-08-11T06:45:41.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many online stores, which provide these types of components. Even so, I will personally suggest &lt;a href=&quot;http://shanesstainless.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shanesstainless.com.au&lt;/a&gt;. It is a very well-known online store. You can get to order your desire component here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8039" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T20:08:19.337" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T20:08:19.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12719" CreationDate="2014-08-11T11:50:20.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apple juice is almost entirely fully-fermentable sugar; there's no real reason to add more sugar unless you want more alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do add sugar, though, you should probably dissolve it either in the juice itself or some water, before adding it.  Only 8 hours into the fermentation, you could probably get away with gently swirling the fermentor to try to dissolve the sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You did no harm by opening the fermentor to drain some off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T11:50:20.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12717" CreationDate="2014-08-12T14:18:13.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copying most of my answer from &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/12575/3925&quot;&gt;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/12575/3925&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've adapted my technique for BIAB over a few batches. These steps are my version of merging BIAB with all-grain and sparging. I've used this technique with all-grain recipies, and associated water temperatures for mash and sparge, and it turns out great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got some buckets from WalMart, drilled holes in the bottom of one, and put the grain bag in the drilled bucket, and then that bucket into a second bucket. This will let it drain without having to hold it up the whole time. Have an extra catch bucket ready for when the first one starts getting full. (Helpful for the next step.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not having used the full boil volume in the pot, we need more water. I heat up another few gallons, and begin pouring it over the grain bag in the drilled bucket. The fermenter bucket below is big enough to hold the extra volume you'll be pouring in there. This serves to rinse more of the sugars out of the grain, while topping off the volume. This is my version of sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you don't get the filtering benefits of a true sparge this way, you can still rinse out the extra sugars, while still being able to capture the runoff from the bag, without having to hold the bag over the brew pot for 20 minutes. Beeersmith gave me a 3 step sparge for an all grain recipe once, so I just used the volumes and temperatures in the recipe, simply poured over the bag in the bucket, wait about 5-10 minutes for the water to filter through the bag each time. It works great, and I can usually hit the target OG for an all grain recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T14:18:13.953" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2014-08-12T20:38:44.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to contribute, we´re making distilled spirits from mead here in Brasil and we´re calling it something like &quot;Pot Still Mead&quot; or Hidromel de Alambique in Portuguese.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is directed to @J Shane Jacobs: the spirit from distilling molasses is rum. But the spirit from fresh sugar cane wine is called Cachaça (if produced in Brasil) and Rum Agricole if produced anywhere else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8084" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T22:02:11.673" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T22:02:11.673" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-08-12T20:38:44.347" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12727" CreationDate="2014-08-13T01:14:37.290" Score="2" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a follow up to my question whether a clear beer is a requirement for quality.  My current batch of IPA, has finished conditioning and is very tasty and also to my surprise quite clear.  Previous batches although tasting very good were cloudy and leading me to believe that clarity without special equipment or filtering was not obtainable to the home brewer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I followed my recipe to the letter, although I believe I may have had a more vigorous boil then in my previous batches.   Following fermentation I used gelatin as a fining agent without any chilling and allowed the beer to sit for 2 additional weeks in the primary before bottling.  The batch conditioned for an additional 2 weeks and then several bottles were placed in the refrigerator.  The beer has a satifactory head and is very clear, there is no chill haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am pleased with the taste and quality of this batch, although I am a bit confused to exactly what chain of events resulted in what I believe to be the best beer I have brewed so far.  Can anyone shed some light on this situation as I would like to be able to repeat this time and again? Thanks, Quentin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T18:53:21.653" Title="My beer is clear, what did I do right?" Tags="|ipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2014-08-13T12:15:40.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;cotton wool and benzene. just remember that benzene is highly flammable, so be careful. I have a bottle of benzene in the house, in the caravan and at work. even clean whiteboard!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8086" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T12:15:40.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12725" CreationDate="2014-08-13T18:53:21.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Graham's answer above, it could have been your fermentation temperature and/or the yeast that you used. The fermentation temp may have allowed the yeast to do its job more efficiently, thus resulting in a quick and clean fermentation - settling out better than previous batches that you had done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the type of yeast that you used could have contributed. Some yeasts flocculate better than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my personal experience, I have found that fermentation temperatures play a large role in clarity of the final product. Ever since building my fermentation fridge, my beers have been consistently been coming out much cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6777" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T18:53:21.653" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12636" CreationDate="2014-08-14T12:24:02.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gypsum does two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It releases calcium ions into the mash, which combine with phosphates from the grain to create an acid, thus acidifying the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It provides sulphate ions which contribute a flavour. It's widely reported that sulphates accentuate hop bitterness and give a slight saltiness to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you took all your gypsum and added it only to the glass, then you'd miss out on the first point. However, if you can get the mash pH in line using other means (e.g. acidulated malt), then it's quite reasonable to add salts to the glass or during packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John Palmer advocates this in his book &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381993&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Water&lt;/a&gt;. I have tried it - preparing known quantities of various salts and adding them to different beers to observe the effect. It does produce a taste difference, although it takes some finesse to improve the beer this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T12:24:02.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6755" CreationDate="2014-08-14T12:39:11.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a product called &lt;a href=&quot;http://sedexbrewing.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sedex&lt;/a&gt; which you can use to prevent leaving sediment in your bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are basically a two part cap. you ferment your bottles inverted and all the sediment falls into the cap then when they are fully carbonated, you remove the one part of the cap which has caught all the sediment leaving the bottle sealed and conditioned without any sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T12:39:11.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12692" CreationDate="2014-08-14T12:53:27.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main types of pressure barrels, which are broadly described as top tap or bottom tap, depending where the tap is on the barrel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tap is at the top of the barrel then pressure is required inside the keg to push the beer up a tube and out of the tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of bottom taps, there is no need for pressure to dispense beer, but if there is no pressure at all then a vacuum will be created in the top of the barrel when you dispense beer and eventually it will reach a point where no beer will be dispensed until you allow some gas in to the barrel to fill that vacuum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, pressure inside the barrel will aid dispense rather than prevent it, so what you heard was much more likely to be air getting into your barrel to replace that vacuum rather than letting gas out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to keep pressure inside the kegs, it is important to ensure the beer is primed with some form of priming sugar so that secondary fermentation inside the barrel can carbonate the beer and pressurise the barrel, even then, you may find you need to top up the gas level on occasion as the beer level drops and to do this you can get barrel lids which allow you to add extra CO2 directly to the barrel either from sparklets like the old soda syphon, or from gas cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T12:53:27.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12554" CreationDate="2014-08-14T14:24:21.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sake both ferments and converts rice starches to sugars at the same time (think fermenting in the mash) so an extract version of sake isn't really going to turn out tasting like sake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made Sake long before I switched to all grain brewing you don't need a mash tun since you're basically mashing in your fermentor, so don't let your lack of being an all grain brewer stop you. However making sake is a lot of work, you have to steam (or boil) all of the rice (10+ pounds depending on how much you're trying to make) and add it in intervals every 18 hours (if you're being traditional).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the instructions I followed if you want to give it a try: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.taylor-madeak.org/index.php/2008/02/29/how-to-make-sake-at-home-a-taylor-made-g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.taylor-madeak.org/index.php/2008/02/29/how-to-make-sake-at-home-a-taylor-made-g&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T14:24:21.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12714" CreationDate="2014-08-14T16:00:55.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to build a mash tun with hardware store parts, you typically won't find stainless steel and your options will usually be limited to &quot;plumbing&quot; parts (copper/brass, garden hose fittings, etc). That doesn't mean you can't do it, but in my experience, it's about the same money (or more if you make some mistakes) and you end up with brass, especially over using sites like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bargainfittings.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bargain fittings&lt;/a&gt;. Denny's is the best suggestion for using local hardware stores and the most cost efficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend a kettle screen, as in my experience, you only save ~$10 and they must be removed and cleaned, otherwise they will clog your system. A round 10g cooler with a round false bottom, connecting hose and fittings seems to be what has worked for me. But, if you want stainless steel, you pretty much have to order everything (cooler from home depot, ship to store ~$50, most don't carry the 10g), fittings from bargain fittings (~$80 with thermometer and two bulkheads plus valve - all stainless) false bottom and hose from midwest or williams or other (~40-50). It's around $170, but it's cheaper than most &quot;complete&quot; tuns and all stainless. EDIT - Just thought I'd point out, &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/products/cooler-mash-tun-10-gallon.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Morebeer sells a mash tun&lt;/a&gt; for 180, but it is missing the second bulkhead and thermometer. You can't save a ton buying all the parts and building it yourself, but you do save a bit (~50). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2014-08-14T22:35:33.480" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T22:35:33.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12735" CreationDate="2014-08-14T16:57:42.597" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just getting ready to do my first batch. I have all I need except a descent pot. I found a 12quart used stainless pot on Kijiji and was hoping it would be sufficient for half-boils of 5gal batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 Quart is just a little over 3 gals, and I presume a half boil is 2.5gals. If I keep a close eye on the pot to prevent over-boils, would it do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8093" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T17:40:38.537" Title="Is a 12quart pot sufficient for a 1/2 5gal boil?" Tags="|boil-kettle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12734" CreationDate="2014-08-14T17:22:23.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it will be too small.  The ROT is that you want a pot at least 50% bigger than your batch size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T17:22:23.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12734" CreationDate="2014-08-14T17:40:38.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree,&#xA;boil overs suck! the extra head space you get from a large pot help reduce the likelyhood of a boil over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but a 3 gallon pot is measured to thr rim. 2.5 gallons will likely only have a couple or few inches of headspace. any stirring, boiling, relocating will cause waves to wash over the sides.&#xA;I do partial boils and use an 8 gallon kettle and love it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, you'd be better off using an inexpensive aluminum pot than a nice undersized steel pot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T17:40:38.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12714" CreationDate="2014-08-15T01:48:07.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried your local homebrew store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T01:48:07.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12679" CreationDate="2014-08-15T19:16:23.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this same thing happen to me before. My pre-boil gravity was one thing and the post boil gravity was actually LESS than the pre-boil. I do all grain and I've found this happens if I take my pre-boil gravity after collecting my wort WITHOUT stirring the wort in the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens in my case is that my first runnings sit in the bottom of the kettle with the lower gravity second runnings settling on top. I would take the gravity reading from the valve at the bottom of my kettle and get a huge gravity reading. Then, after boiling &amp;amp; getting everything mixed up, the reading afterwards would be accurate, but lower than the pre-boil reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I stir up my wort really well after sparging now to make sure that all the sugars are evenly distributed through the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3990" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T19:16:23.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-16T12:01:33.453" Score="1" ViewCount="1048" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a built in kegerator in my kitchen, under the counter style. It is connected to a three tap handle tower and the lines are about 3 feet long. The noise from the compressor/fan is louder than I would like, and I am considering moving the unit to my basement, which sits directly under the kitchen counter. This would increase the run of my beer lines to something closer to 15 feet. The lines would drop down about 3 feet, then make a 45 degree turn and travel another 8 feet, then make a 30 degree turn and drop another 3 feet. My concern is the temperature of the beer in the lines, and the pressure I would need to serve at. What is the best way to ensure this longer beer line run works properly (i.e. beer is kept cool, and dispenses properly)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2834" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T13:33:43.663" Title="How do I extend my kegerator beer line run properly?" Tags="|temperature|kegerator|foam|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12739" CreationDate="2014-08-16T13:33:43.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Brewer's Association has the excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.draughtquality.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Draught Beer Quality Manual&lt;/a&gt; freely available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.draughtquality.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/DQM_Full_Final.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;as a PDF&lt;/a&gt; (see the upper right corner of the page for the download).  It discusses what you'll need to account for: both line length/resistance/elevation change calculation for balancing serving pressure, and long-draw cooling options (forced-air or glycol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T13:33:43.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6116" CreationDate="2014-08-16T22:43:50.273" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know why people recommend against using airlocks.  When the wort is fermenting, there is a positive pressure of CO2 OUT of the vessel.  Oxygen can't get in anyway because of the positive pressure in the flask, so tin foil and foam stoppers aren't doing what they are purported to do anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8104" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T22:43:50.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-17T23:13:35.360" Score="1" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few questions about dme. I want to make a light wheat beer but the wheat lme at my shop is dark. So I have 3.3 lbs of a light beer lme and 1 lb of Bavarian wheat dme. I was planning on making the wort with a combination of the two but don't know how much of each I should use. I only have a 3 gallon carboy. Also can I use the dme instead of sugar for a primer when it's ready to bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8105" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T06:07:36.347" Title="Mixing dme and lme" Tags="|dme|lme|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12742" CreationDate="2014-08-18T05:16:18.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;(1) Yes, you can use a mix of DME and LME in your recipe, but it will affect your recipe. You would be better off using all Bavarian wheat DME. The classic recipe book, Brewing Classic Styles, calls for an American Wheat Ale, for example, to be made from 100% wheat LME having a color of 4°L on the Lovibond scale. Using less wheat will de-emphasize the &quot;wheatiness&quot; of the beer, and I would hesitate to use less than 50% wheat for a true wheat ale. You should use brewing software to determine your recipe. As a rule of thumb, one pound of DME in water will give you a specific gravity of 1.044, and one pound of LME will give you a specific gravity of between 1.033 and 1.037 depending on the type of LME syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) You can use DME as priming sugar, as well as most other sugars including table sugar (sucrose) and corn sugar (dextrose), but be sure to use an online priming sugar calculator to determine how much to use based on the type of sugar you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T05:16:18.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-18T15:48:20.237" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just starting out home brewing and I am planning on sticking with 1 gallon brews for a while. I want to purchase a Tap-a-Draft system but continue with 1 gallon batches for a while. Can you load less than the full volume of a Tap-a-Draft? Would the extra air volume cause any problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8109" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T22:06:53.987" Title="Can you load less than 1.3 gallons into the Tap-A-Draft system?" Tags="|bottling|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12748" CreationDate="2014-08-18T20:04:36.277" Score="4" ViewCount="1609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am shopping for a brew kettle so I can upgrade to full volume boils. Many pots have ball valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of two reasons to use a ball valve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain through it to avoid picking up the kettle to pour wort into the fermentor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer wort through a counterflow chiller&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't plan on doing either of these things any time soon, so it seems like I'm better off avoiding the extra complexity and possible leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I reconsider and get a ball valve on my kettle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8090" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T17:26:15.437" Title="Do I need a ball valve on my brew kettle?" Tags="|boil-kettle|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-18T20:28:39.527" Score="3" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thebeerbug.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BrewBug&lt;/a&gt;, is a neat little toy that essentially has a &quot;floating bob&quot; that measures the temperature and specific gravity of the wort as it is fermenting, allowing for niceties like changing the temperature based on the specific gravity, and just really &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thebeerbug.com/main/index.php?id=20000c2a6906c515&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;nice plots&lt;/a&gt; of the temperature and specific gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried to DIY something like this before?  I expect that the beer bug works by using a hollow bob with a temperature probe and measuring it's weight over time (with calibration).  But I'm not sure where to get the &quot;weight measuring&quot; device: a linear actuator?  A hook's law spring (changing weight to location) and then something to measure the position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8111" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T06:47:18.547" Title="DIY BrewBug based offerings?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12746" CreationDate="2014-08-18T20:35:39.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always add one later.  I have them on all my kettles and they're helpful, but not a necessity for basic brewing.  I'd say the biggest thing mine do for me is allow me to use a pump for recirculated chilling.  But you can always go on stages, adding a valve (the weldless kits work great) and pump, etc. as need and finances dictate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T20:35:39.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12751" CreationDate="2014-08-19T07:39:55.133" Score="1" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one were to distill a beer at 172.3-211.9*F with the intention of throwing away the distillate, in order to produce non-(or low-)alcoholic beer, would the remaining beer contain enough viable yeast to carbonate bottles with the addition of priming sugar, or would additional yeast in low quantities be necessary for carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary question (not necessary for the answer):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the yeast be of the same strain as the original yeast, or would a different kind be acceptable due to the fact that the beer has already been brewed and only carbonation is sought?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T14:58:04.163" Title="Would Yeast survive the temperatures of distillation and properly carbonate?" Tags="|yeast|temperature|distillation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12749" CreationDate="2014-08-19T11:39:37.587" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No way. You will kill everything in your beer at this temperature. The pasteurization process actually uses lower temps, probably with less exposure time, and kills them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And its ok to use any beer yeast to carbonation, you don't need the same strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2014-08-19T11:46:08.027" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T11:46:08.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12749" CreationDate="2014-08-19T14:58:04.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, yeast will die at temps exceeding 115F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T14:58:04.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-19T15:38:09.220" Score="3" ViewCount="3003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have about 5 gallons of regular nut brown ale (in the fermenter now) that I plan to bring to a festival.  Since it is going to be served at a festival and folks will only be drinking 2 ounces at a time (and probably have decimated palates), I figured it should be very highly coconut flavored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than try to get a hop bag into the fermenter, my plan was to make a grain alcohol tincture with coconut flakes, then just add the tincture at bottling time. I would like to avoid pre-made coconut extracts because I would not feel comfortable telling people that's how I brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many ounces of dried coconut flakes soaked in booze would it take to get a high amount of coconut flavor into this standard nut brown ale?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="6534" LastEditDate="2018-09-07T06:30:26.030" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T06:30:26.030" Title="How would one add authentic coconut flavor to a fermented beer?" Tags="|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12747" CreationDate="2014-08-19T18:40:43.973" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The BrewBug, IIRC, uses a bulb type hydrometer. Measuring the weight is unnecessary as the bulb's position will indicate specific gravity. Also, no calibration is involved in this type of setup as hydrometers come pre-calibrated. You need only measure how high the hydrometer sits in the wort and adjust for temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6525" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T18:40:43.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-19T21:15:33.813" Score="2" ViewCount="1427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of making a kegerator for 3 gallon pin lock corny kegs. Is there any issue with using a wine fridge to do this? I thought the size was right, as it can tuck away on my countertop and it has no freezer or shelves to get in the way. Has anyone done this before or has instructions on how to do this? How big of a fridge do I need for a 3 gallon keg and a 24 oz or 2.5 pound CO2 plus all the other equipment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T14:46:02.160" Title="Building a kegerator from a wine fridge" Tags="|kegerator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12757" CreationDate="2014-08-20T16:32:12.747" Score="4" ViewCount="2010" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure I have a pediococcus contamination on a Kolsch that I brewed recently. Let's just say some stuff came up and my sanitation was not great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sampled it after about 6 weeks in primary at 55F, and it was really, really sour. Fortunately, I love sour beer, so it's probably the most delicious homebrew I've ever made--it tastes like lemonade (oops!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked on it again recently after cold crashing and preparing to rack to a keg and it has developed (and probably had before) a thick ropiness below the surface, like a bunch of yeast ghosts are hanging out. Reading around suggests that is pediococcus (hence the sour), and that normally Brett is pitched with Pediococcus to clear up that ropiness. In my case, since I have no idea whether or not there's any Brett in there with the Pedio, should I repitch Brett to help it clear up the Pedio? Should I warm the beer back up? Any advice or links on that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. I'll post a picture later if it's helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8114" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T17:11:33.897" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T17:14:21.443" Title="Pediococcus contamination--Will brett get rid of the ropiness?" Tags="|sour|brettanomyces|pediococcus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12746" CreationDate="2014-08-20T17:26:15.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest reason you want one, in my experience, is that using an auto siphon with your kettle will quickly ruin it if you ever need to move hot liquid. I use my kettle to heat may mash and sparge water, so it's nice to be able to just connect high temp tubing to the valve. Otherwise, if you are only using it for wort, and you chill your wort to a temperature the plastic can handle (~80F or lower) before racking, you can use your auto siphon without causing it to crack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T17:26:15.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12755" CreationDate="2014-08-20T17:57:05.350" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without a photo, it sounds like you have the makings of a pellicle, although the statement &amp;quot;a thick ropiness below the surface&amp;quot; is a bit confusing. Pellicles form on top of the beer, and have the appearance of anything from a slightly translucent film to what looks like a long-lasting, inanimate krausen.  Sometimes people use the term ropiness to describe a particular appearance of the pellicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a pellicle (we'll be able to better diagnose with a photo), Brettanomyces will not get rid of the pellicle.  Sometimes the pellicle will fall back into the beer with enough time, other times you'll just have to stick your racking cane into it.  It's nothing bad, and won't hurt you/your beer.  It's really not possible to easily say &amp;quot;that's a Lactobacillus pellicle&amp;quot; versus &amp;quot;that's a Pediococcus pellicle&amp;quot;.  Chances are, it could be both, or something else altogether such as acetobacter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you do have a Pediococcus contamination, Brettanomyces is a necessity.  Pediococcus can make your beer go sick, and produce Diacetyl.  By &amp;quot;sick&amp;quot;, I mean it'll turn viscous and taste real slick and disgusting on your tongue.  Brett will clear that up with time.  According to what I've heard, famous sour beer brewers such as Cantillon and Russian River have all recovered sick beers by using Brett.  If they can produce world class beers that became sick at some point, it's good enough for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diacetyl is another flavor compound Pedio can produce.  Best description is buttery.  Brett can clear that up too, but it does take a significant amount of time.  One very important thing to consider when pitching Brett, is that you will need to extend your aging to the upwards of a year or more, or you can risk having over-carbonated bottle bombs.  Reason for this is Brett is a very resilient yeast.  It'll absorb all the oxygen it can and keep fermenting.  Supposedly people have discovered brett in 30 year old beers that have survived off whatever little oxygen it can scavenge while in the bottle.  Also, as saccharomyces dies off and self-digests (autolysis), it will split open and release fermentable sugars that the brett will ferment out, as well as fatty acids that it will convert into really interesting ester flavor profiles.  If you plan to pitch brett, commit to ageing the beer for a good amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T17:14:21.443" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T17:14:21.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12759" CreationDate="2014-08-20T18:27:58.653" Score="1" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am modifying an extract recipe for a full volume boil. I understand how to use a brew calculator to calculate modified hop additions, but since my LHBS store sells hops in 1 oz bags, I'd rather not add 0.6 oz and throw away half the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other good approaches to make these changes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8090" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T19:08:09.190" Title="Modifying Recipes for Boil Volume" Tags="|hop-utilization|partial-boil|full-boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12758" CreationDate="2014-08-20T19:08:09.190" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not save the hops you don't use and use them in another brew?  Although vacuum sealing them is the best way, they'll keep fine for several months in a zip lock freezer bag.  Just squeeze out as much air as possible after you put the hops in the bag and keep the bag in the freezer.  That way your current beer gets the proper amount of hops and you aren't wasting the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T19:08:09.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-21T01:06:58.073" Score="3" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Warrior as a bittering hops in my IPA.  Looking to fine tune the recipe by lessening the bitterness a touch or two.  Can you provide me a few other hops in lesser degrees of bitterness? Thanks Q.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T11:41:14.260" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T17:56:31.660" Title="What hops are a little less bitter than Warrior?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12760" CreationDate="2014-08-21T11:40:50.087" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you use less hops, or add them 10 minutes later in the boil? There are lots of hops that are less bitter (weight for weight), but whether they are a good fit depends upon the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry this isn't directly answering your question, but I think you can get what you are looking for (less bitterness) without having to substitute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T11:40:50.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12760" CreationDate="2014-08-21T17:56:31.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nugget is a little lower on the alpha side, so that may work. But I agree with mdma, adjust the amount of hops being used and/or when they are added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T17:56:31.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12764" CreationDate="2014-08-21T19:38:10.277" Score="2" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;Q1: Wondering if since I steeped recipe 4 lbs of various grains to 45 min vs recipe &quot;recommended&quot; 20 min...should I or do I leave in primary carboy for 2 to 3 weeks vs recipe &quot;recommended&quot; 1 week? or is there a FG I should wait for before racking to sec carboy? (OG 1.065)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Q2: Is there a FG I should wait for before bottling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8119" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-08-27T17:35:48.627" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T17:35:48.627" Title="Oatmeal Stout, steeped grains 45 min, extract recipe: Should leave in Prim longer than usual before move to Sec?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2014-08-21T19:55:34.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1/ No, you should not change your fermentation schedule because of a 20 minute difference in steeping grains. Steeping grains for an extract brew is mostly just extracting flavor and color, but there might be a very small difference in some sugars you get. Regardless, not enough to affect the fermentation in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(You should do a 2 week primary instead of racking to secondary after a week just because it's a better thing to do. Secondary is not necessary for most fermentations.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2/ You should wait not for a specific FG for bottling, per se, but until the gravity is &quot;terminal&quot; ... not changing for a period of a few days, at whatever gravity that might be. That being said, you can expect your FG to be about 25±5% of your OG, with most yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T19:55:34.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12766" CreationDate="2014-08-21T19:56:38.000" Score="1" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a number of batches of low-tech hard cider by mixing champagne yeast with Martinelli's apple juice in the bottle, and then inserting an airlock. Fermentation is visible within hours, and one week later, I have hard cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the same thing with 1:1 honey and spring water, but after 48 hours, I still have no fermentation. I don't have much knowledge of fermentation processes, so I'm at a loss to figure out what went wrong. The only thing I can think of is that I need to dilute with more water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8120" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T22:09:02.133" Title="low-tech honey mead failing to ferment" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12765" CreationDate="2014-08-21T22:09:02.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you need to dilute it. There is a mead calculator here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gotmead.com/2014-04-16-20-10-09/mead-calculator.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gotmead.com/2014-04-16-20-10-09/mead-calculator.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but it's a bit hard to use, so if you can't figure it out go for 1/4 to 1/3 honey by volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's another issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honey is basically just sugar, and yeast needs more than just sugar and water to live. You can either buy special salts called &quot;yeast nutrients&quot; (or something similar) or add a piece of fruit to the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8121" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T22:09:02.133" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12806" CreationDate="2014-08-22T17:33:48.747" Score="0" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've kegged my last batch, was an 'imperial IPA', and will drink it in my house with some few friends. It's a borrowed 19L cornelius keg, and I think that we cannot drain it completely. Since I've to give it back to the owner I was thinking about fill some bottles. And them I've think about let my friends fill bottles when we're drinking, &lt;em&gt;directly from tap&lt;/em&gt;. I will use a DIY jockey box with ~15m coil and a flow controled faucet, with 'push-back creamer' function, somewhat like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mybeerandwine.ie/228-thickbox_default/chrome-beer-tap-with-flow-control.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;that&lt;/a&gt;. I use standard crown type metal caps and my capper is like &lt;a href=&quot;http://alquimiadacerveja.com.br/image/cache/data/equipamentos/arrolhador_fechador_garrafa-800x800.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, there is a way to do this without anything else, or I strictly need at least a thing like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/we-no-need-no-stinking-beer-gun-24678/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BMBF&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T20:03:22.440" Title="Bottling from a jockey box?" Tags="|bottling|kegging|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12679" CreationDate="2014-08-22T22:06:08.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would pay close attention to the temperature at which you took the hydrometer reading. Hot wort can throw off a reading. Also as other posters have suggested, a quick stir before a hydrometer reading can make a huge difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T22:06:08.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12680" CreationDate="2014-08-22T22:13:35.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always recommend to novice brewers that they try to make a 1 gallon batch before investing in all the equipment. Most people already have kitchen equipment suitable for making 1 gallon of beer and any additional equipment is easy to find like a 1 gallon glass or plastic jug. Any decent homebrew supply shop should sell 1lb bags of malt which you can make a small batch with. You will definitely have hops leftover unless you use the same hop for aroma, flavor, and bittering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T22:13:35.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12782" CreationDate="2014-08-23T02:00:57.977" Score="1" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to make 1.5 liters of mead as a first go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was very lazy though and used a whole packet of lalvin 71b-1122 on such a small batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 week has gone by.  The color looks good but everything has settled to the bottom.  Did it just eat everything super fast?  Is it ruined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8129" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T18:37:58.247" Title="Did I mess up my mead?" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12776" CreationDate="2014-08-23T19:06:26.697" Score="2" ViewCount="3025" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the particular section of the city I live in, the tap water has a poor taste. I use a Pur brand water filter (edit: activated charcol filtration) which improves the taste significantly (although it is still poor relative to bottled water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For extract brewing, I purchase 6, 1-gallon water jugs from Wall-Mart. This adds roughly $10 to each batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should hopefully begin All-grain brewing soon enough, and wanted to switch to filtered tap water in order to reduce cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been able to locate the mineral composition of the water for my section of the city. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By filtering my water through the consumer water filters, will the mineral composition of the tap water be altered, rendering the information I have gathered useless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Brewing Classic Styles by John Palmer, he states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Charcoal filtration alone will not affect dissolved minerals like iron, calcium, magnesium, coppe, or bicarbonate.... Most carbon filters are highly effective at removing chlorine and chloramine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(pg 26)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-12-26T22:41:12.880" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T22:41:12.880" Title="How do water filters effect the minerals in water?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12773" CreationDate="2014-08-23T19:10:37.187" Score="0" ViewCount="1122" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a follow up question to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/12771/how-do-water-filters-effect-the-minerals-in-water&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, I'm interesting in testing every batch of tap water for the PPM of various minerals (calcium, magnesium, sodium, chloride, sulfate, etc). Are these test strips available at the LHBS? I saw that Northern Brewer had complete water testing kits available starting at $100, but I would rather not pay that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I test the PPM of the tap water, myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T20:26:54.347" Title="How can I test the PPM of different minerals in my Water?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12772" CreationDate="2014-08-23T20:26:54.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're insistent on testing it yourself, aquarium supply places purportedly have testing kits, but I haven't looked into them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://producers.wardlab.com/BrewersKitOrder.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;You can also send a (pre- or post-filtered) sample to Ward Labs, who have multiple specific homebrewer water tests&lt;/a&gt; for $30-40. As Denny mentions, doing this on a multi-year period (or if you feel/know that things are changing due to municipal water changes) is totally sufficient. Also, the municipal water organization will likely have a yearly report, though if it's like most it'll have most but not all of the ion values you care about as a homebrewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T20:26:54.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12771" CreationDate="2014-08-24T10:48:34.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course the filter takes out -roughly said- some of the character of your water, the bigger parts are filtered out. By just tasting the before and after results you will note the difference (or not). The smaller parts inside the water (e.g. other minerals and the added cleaners like chlorine) will not disappear. In some tap water you will still find the smaller parts of drugs people get prescribed, or the rest of other drugs without prescription :-). As a matter of fact all these components are not declared by your local water authority as legislation does not force them do declare beneath some values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second step is to look at the membrane of the filter, the finer the membrane the more minerals are sieved out. The more you take out, less lively the water will be. And naturally this has its effects on taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here in Amsterdam we use normal tap water as the quality is good. A friend of mine is a professional crafts brewer, and he experiments also with filtering water for every new type of beer, so this is not a rare thing to think of. For demineralizing water often osmosis techniques are used, then you need to make labo analysis but for home brewing this way out of reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't forget to read the RELATED topics in the right bar of this page, there are many answers to your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal tap water should do. Or a combination of filtered and bottled water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3431" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T10:48:34.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12778" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-24T14:48:51.683" Score="0" ViewCount="1508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I set up a new fermentation chamber and was keen to try my hand at a lager. Unfortunately now 5 days on there hasn't been any fermentation so I think I may have shocked the yeast with the cold or just not given it enough of a headstart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a Pilsner based on the how to brew recipe using White Labs WLP800 Pilsner lager yeast. Fermenting at 50F / 10C. I only left it in the starter for about 3 or 4 hours, and the temperature was probably about 15C but fluctuated a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of questions, what's the best way to proceed? What is the best way to do a lager starter in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8133" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T07:12:09.523" Title="First time brewing lager, no fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|lager|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12778" CreationDate="2014-08-24T16:07:23.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lager needs a really big starter.  Somewhere on the order of a gal. starter is normal.  That takes several days to build.  You likely underpitched.  In the future, use a resource like www.mrmalty.com to calculate your starter size.  Are you certain there's no fermentation at all?  Have you checked the gravity?  That's really the only way to know.  I would guess it is fermenting, although slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T16:07:23.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12778" CreationDate="2014-08-25T06:29:45.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, hard to chase an answer by D.C. but here you go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I like to count air bubbles in the airlock.  Immediately after filling the carboy, you could have some off-gassing that isn't fermentation however (just like after transferring to secondary).  No bubbles at all?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Checking the gravity sounds good but bear in mind you should see some rapid changes in gravity.  A tiny change in gravity isn't what you are looking for after 5 days.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As D.C. says, you probably underpitched a lot.  For best results in all home brewing, start your yeast at least overnight (or even 2 or 3 days before pitching).  Here's a white labs guide to yeast starters: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew/starter-tips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew/starter-tips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could consider chilling to only 60 F initially or allowing your wort and yeast a day of fermentation at a warmer temperature before moving it to a lower temperature.  I have used this trick in my garage.  Laundry room is closer to 60, garage closer to 50.  First day in the laundry room, then move to the garage when fermentation is 'proofed'.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What to do now: Check your gravity and observe the airlock.  If no fermentation, then taste your beer.  If it still taste all right and smells all right, I'd repitch with new yeast.  If you have a few bucks to waste, buy two yeast packs.  Throw one in right away and put the other through the starter.  Pitch the starter into the beer in a couple of days if there is still no fermentation.  Pitch half of it if there is ferm and use the other half of the starter on your next batch the following weekend (refrigerate the starter). If your beer tastes weird or sour and you like it, pitch new yeast as above.  If it tastes weird or sour and you don't like it, dump the beer and brew again.  Better that than to bottle garbage you toss later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2083" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T06:29:45.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12784" CreationDate="2014-08-25T18:19:42.403" Score="1" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I forgot to buy some yeast nutrient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But maybe it's already in the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vinter's Harvest : Premium Wine Yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ingredients: Dried Yeeast, emulsifier, magnesium, sulphate, trace vitamins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8117" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T14:15:53.713" Title="Does my yeast possibly already have yeast nutrient?" Tags="|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12770" CreationDate="2014-08-25T19:43:52.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'll have ruined the batch just by using so much yeast to start. The yeast simply wouldn't have needed to reproduce as much as they normally do so the fermentation would have started faster and subsequently finished faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say everything has settled to the bottom are you referring to fruit and spices you added for flavour? or just the yeast cake on the bottom?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, one week is plenty long enough for most if not all the yeast to settle, I think you'll be fine. Hope it tastes as good as you hoped it would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7979" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T19:43:52.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12781" CreationDate="2014-08-25T20:21:25.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you making wine or beer?  If beer, nutrient isn't a big necessity.  There are a lot of nutrients from the grain, so using additional nutrient isn't a really big deal.  For wine, I don't know.  This is a homebrewing group so wine is kind of outside of our knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T20:21:25.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12781" CreationDate="2014-08-25T20:46:08.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say &quot;no&quot;. It's in quotes because all yeast nutrient is is dehydrated empty yeast cells. So, I guess you could say that &quot;yes&quot; there is yeast nutrient in all yeast. Your ingredients say it includes trace vitamins though so perhaps they put a little yeast nutrient in with it? I will say that if you're properly sanitized and the yeast you're using is relatively fresh, you're probably okay to ferment without adding yeast nutrient. It's still not too late to sprinkle a little yeast nutrient if it makes you feel better about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, to be sure you have viable and healthy yeast, I would always make a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T20:46:08.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12781" CreationDate="2014-08-26T14:15:53.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For wine, you typically need to add Ammonium Diphosphate to make up for the lacking nitrogen in must. As Denny said, this is not necessary with beer since wort made from grain is full of the stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to oxygenate or airate as well as you can, and this will go some way to offsetting the low levels of nutrients. Alternatively, add the nutrients a few days later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast ingredients list metals and trace vitamins, which are also a form of nutrient. So your yeast isn't totally nutrient free, so you can probably just go ahead and use it, following any instructions on the packet regarding rehydration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T14:15:53.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-26T15:32:01.843" Score="0" ViewCount="986" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've been looking into getting a grain mill for some time now. I was pretty settled on getting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.monsterbrewinghardware.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;monster mill&lt;/a&gt; or some version of it until I saw the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kitchenaid.com/shop/-3/-%5BKGM%5D-400565/KGM/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;kitchen aid milling attachment&lt;/a&gt;. If this would work for milling brewing grains, it would be ideal as I could use the same mill to mill flour since it has variable settings on it. Has anyone ever used the kitchen aid milling attachment to mill grain for brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T14:44:33.020" Title="Monster Mill v.s. Kitchen Aid Mill attachment" Tags="|equipment|grain|mill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12787" CreationDate="2014-08-26T15:46:23.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Kitchen Aid attachment doesn't work well for milling brewing grain according to reports from people who have used them. For one thing, it's made to produce flour, not grist.  That means it mills too fine.  For another, it's not meant for the pounds of grain that you'll have to mill at a time and can overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T15:46:23.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12796" CreationDate="2014-08-26T19:34:04.763" Score="1" ViewCount="2749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;strong&gt;just moved to a new state&lt;/strong&gt;, and brewed a dark beer recipe that I'm fond of-- a weizenbock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I believe my &lt;strong&gt;water chemistry&lt;/strong&gt; may have been different enough from my previous location to have dropped the mash pH too low, because my &lt;strong&gt;fermented beer is a bit tart&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the time being, I'd like to troubleshoot this problem assuming it's &lt;strong&gt;not infected&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I am going to the homebrew store to get pH strips. How can I &lt;strong&gt;correct perceived acidity / tartness&lt;/strong&gt; in a finished beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG:  1.068, FG:  1.010, ABV: 7.6-7.9%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single Infusion, 148°F (64.5°C), 90 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60 min boil, Magnum bittering only, WLP300 Hefeweizen Ale Yeast, 72°F (22°C) primary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grain bill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Canada Malting Superior Pilsen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Best Red Wheat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Best Light Munich&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Briess Dark Munich&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Briess C40&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Castle Special B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thomas Fawcett &amp;amp; Sons Pale Chocolate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3811" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T12:53:18.727" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T12:53:18.727" Title="How do I correct acidity/tartness in a fermented beer?" Tags="|mash|sour|ph|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13152" CreationDate="2014-08-26T20:47:50.070" Score="0" ViewCount="2419" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was reading some posts here on the homebrew stack exchange, like I do, and I came across &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3455/adding-potassium-metabisulphite-i-e-sulfites-to-prevent-oxidation&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question. I always use K-meta when bottling because I keep my bottles clean and all I need is to quickly sanitize them when I'm ready to bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, from all the reading I've done up until this moment, I've been under the impression that one absolutely must rinse K-meta when bottling beer, as it can impart off flavours of some kind. After reading the responses to the other question I'm curious if I've just been wasting my time by boiling water to have a clean rinse after sterilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is, can I bottle my beer without rinsing K-meta santization solution out of the bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7979" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T00:31:25.397" Title="Can I get away with not rinsing Potassium Metabisulphite when I'm bottling?" Tags="|beer|bottling|sanitation|potassium-meta-bisulfite|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12798" CreationDate="2014-08-27T04:09:36.507" Score="0" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because I don't have any Amylase to platy with (yet), I'm looking for a way to check if it would have any effect that's cheaper and/or simpler than finding some place that sells the stuff. (Heck even with some in hand, I'm not sure how I'd know if it did anything.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some background, my objective isn't beer or wine (thought I don't mind if that's what I get) but rather I want to turn some fruit juice (pineapple for now) into a base for a steak marinade and I'm trying to remove any complex carbohydrates that would char or caramelize on a flat iron grill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8075" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T15:12:42.603" Title="How can I tell if there is anything for Amylase to work on?" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-27T04:57:27.593" Score="0" ViewCount="2711" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few times I have made an (almost) single-hop IPA with a hop I haven't had before, to get a good idea of what it's like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mosaic IPA was wonderful.  Nelson Sauvin IPA was very good.  Now, Sorachi Ace IPA...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is (20 liters):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;OG of about 1.054&#xA;IBUs of about 43&#xA;BU:GU of about .8&#xA;Bittering hops (Magnum) at :60&#xA;The &quot;single hop&quot;:&#xA;.5 oz at :20&#xA;.5 oz at :10&#xA;.5 oz at :05&#xA;.5 oz at flame-out&#xA;2  oz dry hop &amp;lt;&amp;lt; not added yet&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just racked the Sorachi Ace one, and the &quot;preview&quot; taste was a little scary.  I'm not sure I'm going to find this beer very enjoyable.  I am considering sacrificing the &quot;single hop&quot; concept and dry-hopping with something else, to get something I'll like better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got some spare Citra and Cascade I could use.  How does that seem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or has anyone tried a single-hop Sorachi Ace IPA and found it to be really good, and think I should just carry on with the original plan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2014-08-28T17:21:47.050" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T03:26:21.390" Title="Salvaging this Sorachi Ace IPA" Tags="|hops|recipe|ipa|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12790" CreationDate="2014-08-27T06:48:24.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have a video here &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayd9AKN8-R0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayd9AKN8-R0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;K-meta, i.e. potassium metabisulfate, is fine not to rinse after using, however I personally would still rinse most equipment but not bother with bottles or fermentors (I would rinse something I was going to drink within 24 hours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8138" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-08-28T16:37:45.457" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T16:37:45.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12789" CreationDate="2014-08-27T13:08:19.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could  lower the carbonation level of the keg slightly. Carbonic acid comes across as 'tart', so backing off the C02 could help the beer feel more normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you could try adding small amounts of Malto Dextrin powder to the finished beer. Malto Dextrin is normally used to increase body and mouthfeel, but it &lt;strong&gt;might&lt;/strong&gt; have the side effect of cutting some of the tartness. Add it slowly, as I doubt you'd want to get the FG higher than 1.013 or so, otherwise it might start feeling &quot;chewy&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T13:08:19.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12789" CreationDate="2014-08-27T14:49:07.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple things you can try adding to a glass of the beer.  The sodium and chloride in salt will aid in the perception of sweetness, so you could try adding a bit to a glass.  Too much, though, will obviously give you a salty flavor.  You can also add calcium chloride to the glass to enhance the perception if maltiness and sweetness.  Again, start with just a tiny bit and add more if necessary.  If what you're experiencing is astringency due to a high pH, though, these might be of limited usefulness.  But they're at least worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T14:49:07.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12793" CreationDate="2014-08-27T14:55:57.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping with Citra or Cascacde will add aroma and flavor.  If you add enough, you might be able to cover up the Sorachi Ace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T14:55:57.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12792" CreationDate="2014-08-27T15:12:42.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I'm sure you know (but just in case) any unfermented sugars remaining in the juice will certainly caramelize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out if starches are present, you could either try a Google—e.g. 'pineapple juice composition'—or hike down to the drugstore and get the smallest bottle of Tincture of Iodine they have in stock. Tincture of Iodine (the yellow stuff) will turn purply-black in the presence of starch. Happy grilling!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[ Edit: for all I know, Iodophor—a sterilant commonly used in brewing—may do the same. ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T15:12:42.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12789" CreationDate="2014-08-27T19:08:03.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could blend the beer with maltier/sweeter beer in the glass to change your perception.  Different brewing salts may help but they some are not easily dissolved into cold and carbonated beer, if in fact that's the status of your beer now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general I always find it better to learn what went wrong and try and fix that than fix the beer. Time better spent preparing for the next batch would be better spent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T19:08:03.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12804" CreationDate="2014-08-27T21:49:18.080" Score="1" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I sanitise ( with VWP ) I don't just chuck it away, I put it into a fermentation bucket outside my house. I stick all my bits n bobs - stainless beer paddle, syphon and bits in there, and leave them there until the next brew and I'll top it up with more sanitiser when I stick the next brew on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interested on any issues with this, but specifically may I ask your opinion if a stainless steel spoon left here for a week should only need a rinse before use - rinse again after stirring return to sanitising bucket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8117" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T16:47:44.753" Title="Bucket of sanitising fluid, kept for future use, is it effective, how long will it last?" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12800" CreationDate="2014-08-28T00:57:51.560" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb is as long as the Sanitizer is clear and not cloudy you will be fine. A rinse of the spoon should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8010" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T00:57:51.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12800" CreationDate="2014-08-28T16:47:44.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never worked with VWP.  But it appears to be a chlorine based agent.  Chlorine based agents lose their potency quickly after dilution (regardless of solution clarity or pH).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, there is no added advantage to keep your brewing hardware in a solution until the next brew cycle.  I'd recommend making a fresh solution each brew day.  If you haven't had any problems well then good for you and you can ignore this.  But whenever I leave stuff sitting in either cleansers or my sanitizer it gets a little slimy and weird.  I prefer to clean at brews end and sanitize before the next session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, looking at the few references to it online it says cleanser/steriliser on the label.  Its very difficult for any product to do both.  By U.S. standards I doubt it is even remotely a steriliser.  Sanitizer maybe but not a sterilizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T16:47:44.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12793" CreationDate="2014-08-28T19:42:29.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made IPAs where I felt that they were just too sweet, the FG too high to allow the hop flavor to come forward (Azacca hops specifically, among others I'm certain that would be similar).  In addition to Denny's recommendation, you may also try back-sweetening the beer to see if that helps cut through the hop flavor.  Using lactose, you can take a pyrex measuring cup, and create a water/lactose mix, microwave it to boil, chill it down, then add it to a graduated cylinder filled with your beer in small doses.  Take gravity readings to see the FG rise up, mix well, and sample to see if it increasing the FG makes the hop flavor more palettable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also noticed hop aroma/flavor completely transform with enough age.  I tried my hand at a similar recipe to Troeg's Nugget Nectar last year, and after having damn near empty the keg at a party, what left turned into what could best be described as orange juice in less than a week.  I cried when that keg kicked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-08-28T19:47:36.130" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T19:47:36.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12767" CreationDate="2014-08-28T20:03:22.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottling from a tap is always tough, as you tend to lose carbonation. That is why beer guns and counter pressure bottle fillers were made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to fill a bottle without one of the above items, I'd recommend using a length of 5/16&quot; hose attached to your tap. This will allow you to fill your bottles from the bottom up (not top down) and will help reduce foam and the loss of carbonation as you fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6777" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T20:03:22.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12808" CreationDate="2014-08-28T21:49:53.150" Score="1" ViewCount="607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've wondered about this for a while: most 'how to make a yeast starter' instructions I've seen suggest using only the yeast-rich sludge, and tossing most of the starter medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes sense if the yeast won't be used right away, in which case it also makes sense to 'wash' it before tucking it in the fridge. It might also make sense if, for the sake of purism, you want to minimize the amount of extract in an all-grain brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, as long as the starter is fresh and active (and you've allowed for the volume in determining your hopping rate), I don't see any reason not to throw the whole thing in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T02:22:10.800" Title="Why toss the starter wort?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12807" CreationDate="2014-08-28T21:54:35.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is recommended to decant and dispose of the starter beer because the starter beer is nasty and oxidized, nasty and devoid of fermentable sugar by the time the yeast have reproduced to pitching levels. &quot;You would not brew a beer with this level of oxidation, so why would blend it into your beer?&quot;, goes the thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T21:54:35.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12807" CreationDate="2014-08-28T22:22:01.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many cases, the starter beer is simply going to be diluting the wort, and not necessarily in a compatible way. The starter beer is probably not the same color, malt make up, hop profile, &amp;amp;c. as related to the beer.  Plus, as ChinoBrews mentions, if properly aerated, the starter beer is likely to be oxidized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the requisite starter volume for most ale batch sizes, the ratio of starter beer to fresh wort is low enough that you're just not going to notice. For the larger pitch rate and thus starter volume requirements for Brett or lager starters, the starter beer starts (heh) to become an appreciable fraction of the overall wort volume … 4L of starter for a 20L batch is 20% of the total volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I usually try to cool and decant starters before pitching, but if it's just 1.5L into a 20L moderately-hopped 1.030 OG batch of saison, maybe I don't care quite so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T22:22:01.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12811" CreationDate="2014-08-30T14:10:39.067" Score="3" ViewCount="1103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working in my first high gravity beer. Its been in primary for two weeks in the yeast cake. Looking for pointers on when to secondary.. How close to f.g. should I be before I transfer for the rest if the 6+ weeks..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7992" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T21:33:07.530" Title="Belgian golden strong" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|belgian|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12810" CreationDate="2014-08-30T15:28:02.777" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no reason to secondary that beer.  Most homebrewers these days don't bother with secondary unless adding fruit or something else that will cause fermentation to restart.  Here's what John Palmer, Jamil Zainisheff and others have to say....&quot;Therefore I, and Jamil and White Labs and Wyeast Labs, do not recommend racking to a secondary fermenter for ANY ale, except when conducting an actual second fermentation, such as adding fruit or souring. Racking to prevent autolysis is not necessary, and therefore the risk of oxidation is completely avoidable. Even lagers do not require racking to a second fermenter before lagering. With the right pitching rate, using fresh healthy yeast, and proper aeration of the wort prior to pitching, the fermentation of the beer will be complete within 3-8 days (bigger = longer). This time period includes the secondary or conditioning phase of fermentation when the yeast clean up acetaldehyde and diacetyl. The real purpose of lagering a beer is to use the colder temperatures to encourage the yeast to flocculate and promote the precipitation and sedimentation of microparticles and haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the new rule of thumb: don’t rack a beer to a secondary, ever, unless you are going to conduct a secondary fermentation.&quot;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=15108.msg191642#msg191642&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=15108.msg191642#msg191642&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2014-09-01T15:05:03.927" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T15:05:03.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12813" CreationDate="2014-08-30T19:43:42.970" Score="2" ViewCount="5742" Body="&lt;p&gt;I typically use LME for my wort, with no prblems, but this time I am trying a slightly bigger beer and want to add DME to boost the OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one time I tried adding DME to my wort, I just dumped it into the boil pot 2 minutes before knockoff, and it clumped so badly that I spent 20 minutes (without flame) breaking everything up so it could dissolve. Threw off my timing, but everything was okay in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, should I dissolve it in cooler water (in a separate pot to avoid the sudden clump - seemed to clump in contact with the steam)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a different/easier way to deal with DME?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8113" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T05:41:41.120" Title="How to add DME to the wort" Tags="|wort|original-gravity|dme|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12812" CreationDate="2014-08-30T21:28:54.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take it out of the bag and put it in a bowl or something to pour from.  Then I pour slowly while stirring.  Minimal clumpage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T21:28:54.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-30T21:46:22.787" Score="3" ViewCount="3478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the 10 gallon water cooler from Home Depot. The hole in it is about 3/4&quot; diamater. After discovering that Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, and etc. did not sell all the components (hose barbs, coupling, pipe nipple, ball valve) in stainless steel or brass, I went to my LHBS, where they only sold 1&quot; pieces. Getting frustrated, I widened the hole in the Home Depot water cooler with a titanium drill bit to 1&quot; diameter and put it together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature drops significantly over 60 minutes. For example, the test I just concluded with 5 gallons of water resulted in the following (Of course, opening the cooler to measure the temperature will change the outcome by some degree):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Minutes | Temperature (F) | Change&#xA;  00    |     163         |   0&#xA;  15    |     158         |  -5&#xA;  30    |     153         |  -5&#xA;  45    |     153         |   0&#xA;  60    |     151         |  -2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oddly, the temperature dropped 5 degrees in the first 15 minutes, another 5 in the second 15 minutes, didn't drop at all in the third 15 minutes, and dropped two in the final 15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Minutes | Temperature (F) | Change&#xA;  00    |     163         |   0&#xA;  15    |     160         |  -3&#xA;  30    |     160         |   0&#xA;  45    |     160         |   0&#xA;  60    |     169         |   9&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok the brand new digital thermometer that I just bought today is obviously incorrect as the temperature spiked upwards 9 degrees. I'll have to repeat with a new thermometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a slight leak in the water cooler. I'll probably plaster the outside with silicon and test again tomorrow. However, I think I need to plan for a temperature reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that people typically add hot water to the mix if they are having trouble like I am having. How much should I add, at which temperature, and what time increments? Is this something that I'll just have to experiment with? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just chock this up as a loss and buy a different cooler with a 1&quot; hole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-08-31T00:40:01.533" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T17:04:38.360" Title="What is the proper way to maintain temperature in a water cooler Mash tun by adding hot water?" Tags="|mash|temperature|temperature-control|mashing|mash-tun|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12814" CreationDate="2014-08-31T15:47:05.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definitely recommend a different cooler.  I find rectangular coolers are much easier to use and I've never had trouble holding temp in one.  I have 48, 70, and 152 qt. coolers and never lose more than 1-2F over the course of the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T15:47:05.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12814" CreationDate="2014-08-31T22:43:42.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the heat is usually lost through the lid in coolers.  Cooler lids are not well insulated.  The bodies are.  This is because they are meant to keep things cold not hot.  Heat rises and a cooler lid isn't designed to actually handle it. Some coolers are better than others.  I have used several and found wide differences.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I found that if I covered the cooler lid with a couple old bath towels or a folded heavy wool blanket it held temp fine.  Even for some extended mashes beyond 60 minutes.  Some people drill some small holes into the lid and spray in some minimally expanding foam to insulate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try preheating the cooler with some hot water first.  A couple quarts of near boiling water sloshed around does a good job.  More importantly, it heats the airspace inside the lid.&#xA;Dump that water out repeat your test.  But check it only at 60 minutes.  In the ten gallon cooler, every time you open the lid you need to reheat a good portion of the air above your 5 gallons of water.  Its nice to collect data, but the 60min point is the only one you care about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seal it, cover it check it in 60 minutes.  I bet the results will be satisfactory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, remember that for most mashes conversion is likely complete in 20 minutes anyway.  So if you lose 2-4 degrees at 60 minutes your mash was pretty good at the start during the most active part of the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T22:43:42.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10365" CreationDate="2014-09-01T18:33:03.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my first Rogue hazelnut brown nectar clone I am using a homemade hazelnut extract (2 cups roasted and crushed in 2 cups vodka for 4 weeks) It will not be as potent as the commercial extracts so I am thinking a couple tbs in the 5 gallons - will let you know if interested. ..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8156" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T18:33:03.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-02T02:06:09.713" Score="1" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been growing hops by luck.  Last year I gave them a 3 pole teepee to climb and they flourished and were beautiful.  This year they were looking gorgeous once again, but days before I was about to pick them they became infested with aphids.  The explosion and destruction has been shocking.  My beautiful green cones are crawling with them and are suddenly turning brown (a separate problem?).  Some cones even have grey-black mold-looking stains I their bottom leaves.  HOWEVER, they still smell great and still have ample golden magic.  Question:  are my hops history or are they still worth picking.  My home brewing neighbor who has been a defender and supporter of my hops now turns up his nose.  How badly will the aphids effect my hops and our beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8158" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T02:48:38.977" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T21:28:48.670" Title="How much damage do aphids cause to hops?" Tags="|hops|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12814" CreationDate="2014-09-02T15:36:41.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so @DennyConn and @brewchez's advice is very good, but they don't directly answer your questions. So here it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that the best thing to do is to keep a pot of boiling water and a pot of ice-cold water ready when I mash in. When I have adequately stirred my mash, I check the temp in 4-5 places, and go with the average. I add hot or cold water by estimate, a little at a time while stirring, to hit my mash temp. Generally, if you have a good cooler, you should not suffer more than a 2°F drop over the course of a one-hour mash. (I will note that there is strong evidence that a 30-minute mash is more than enough for one-step mashes, and maybe 15 is enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is to not open up the mash tun because the heat loss from that may exceed the benefit of checking (OK, I will usually do a check at 30 minutes). &lt;strong&gt;You can repeat that adjustment process if you want to adjust mash temp mid-mash&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do a bunch of math and figure out how much water to add and at what temp, but by the time you got you additional water measured and at the right temperature you are looking at a target that has moved away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will second @DennyConn's endorsement of rectangular coolers. I have excellent experience with the Coleman Xtreme line, but any of the 5-day coolers are great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as your question, &quot;Should I just chock this up as a loss and buy a different cooler with a 1&quot; hole?&quot;: &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. I don't think the hole size is the issue. if you have a silicone washer and a metal washer on each side of your cooler bulkhead, and thread the ball vale and the interior fitting on tight, then it &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; seal even if you hold is a jagged 1-1/4&quot; hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, should you &quot;chock it up as a loss&quot; because your specific cooler is not manufactured as well, or because it is a round beverage cooler and tends to hold heat not so well? I will leave it up to you. I would try wrapping it with blankets and/or reflectix insulation. I learned to hold mash temps in a two-gallon, $8 beverage cooler with terrible thermal mass, using only blankets, so all is not lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T15:36:41.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12822" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-02T16:09:50.600" Score="0" ViewCount="3365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a Dogfish Punkn clone that was rather heavy on the sediment. I pitched a pretty healthy yeast starter that was working for 30 hours before being pitched probably around 80 degrees, perhaps slightly more than the room temp. The yeast didn't take off, airlock activity was brief and underwhelming. It began at the 48 hour mark and lasted until the 60 hour mark. The krausen rimming the carboy is short, perhaps less than an inch. Should I pitch a new batch of yeast? It has been fermenting for one full week. I wasn't able to take a gravity reading because I busted my hydrometer. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8160" LastEditorUserId="8160" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T16:18:51.767" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T18:29:20.033" Title="Should I pitch a second round of yeast?" Tags="|yeast|airlock|carboy|krausen|repitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12822" CreationDate="2014-09-02T18:29:20.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're going to have to take a gravity reading in order to determine whether or not fermentation has completed.  It clearly did ferment given your description of events, but now it becomes a question of how much, and whether or not it has completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect you may have under-pitched despite using a yeast starter, which would cause an extended fermentation past what normal ale fermentations take.  Under the right circumstances, most ale fermentations develop a krausen well before 24 hours and should complete in about a week, assuming normal fermentation temperatures, average gravity, proper yeast pitch rates, and average yeast attenuation.  Altering any of the above variables can dramatically alter the time needed to ferment to completion with varied consequences, either good or bad.  For example, I recently brewed a Belgian Tripel using a new Belgian yeast strain boasting an unbelievably high 85% - 100% apparent attenuation.  In the second week of fermenting, it dropped a further 5 gravity points.  A lesser attenuating ale strain would have completed fermentation in a substantially shorter period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, pitching more yeast may have likely been the solution back in the beginning a week ago, but will not benefit you at this point in the fermentation, unless you have a stuck fermentation, in which case you'll want to follow steps to correct the stuck fermentation.  Any consequences of under-pitching yeast will have already developed by now.  Best to wait it out, take gravity readings to see if it has completed, correct if stuck, and eventually go to bottle/keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference, use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr. Malty's yeast pitching rate calculator&lt;/a&gt; to determine the correct size for your yeast starters, it should hopefully prevent this in your upcoming batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T18:29:20.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="782" CreationDate="2014-09-02T19:17:46.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a Portugese Floor Corker, and find corking to be a lot easier than bottling. Initially, I was soaking my corks in Star San but that was causing infections-- I recommend you do not soak your corks in anything before corking your bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3811" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T19:17:46.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-02T19:23:00.150" Score="1" ViewCount="8619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two sets of instructions for putting the wort into the primary fermentation bucket.  One says to just dump the entire contents of the wort into the bucket.  The second says to stir like crazy to create a 'hop cone', then syphon the wort, minus the hop cone, into the bucket ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, what to do????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8162" LastEditorUserId="6350" LastEditDate="2014-09-11T21:05:16.530" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T21:05:16.530" Title="Hops - Do they stay in the wort for the primary fermentation or not?" Tags="|fermentation|hops|wort|dry-hop|primary|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12825" CreationDate="2014-09-02T20:23:21.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's best to remove the hops, but it's not a deal breaker if you don't.  It will just make it harder to siphon the beer later.  There are 2 other options to consider...you can put the hops in a nylon or muslin bag so that the entire bag can be removed later.  Or after the wort has been cooled post boil, you can pour it through a sanitized strainer into your fermenter to remove the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T20:23:21.527" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12843" CreationDate="2014-09-02T20:33:37.320" Score="0" ViewCount="913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bit of an emergency on my hands. I am brewing beer for a wedding and my batch of stout bottle bombed on me. The whole batch is ruined and the wedding is 3 weeks away. Does anyone have a quick stout recipe that will be bottled and done in that much time? Or suggestions on what to look for in a recipe if it is even possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T11:19:32.573" Title="Quick recipe for stout" Tags="|recipe|stout|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12827" CreationDate="2014-09-02T20:47:37.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much any stout recipe can be turned around in that amount of time.  I'd shoot for a gravity around 1.040, something in the 4-5% abv range, ferment for a week with properly-rehydrated dry yeast, then bottle and let condition for 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the recipe, I like something like (for a 5gl batch):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50% pilsner  (3 lbs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20% dark munich (1.25lbs) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8% flaked oats (0.5lbs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8% roasted barley (0.5lbs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8% sugar (half corn, half turbinado) (0.5lb total)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3% black patent (0.2lbs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2% carapils (0.12lbs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~20 IBU bittering (~0.5oz Magnum)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~0.5oz Fuggles @ 10 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why did your last batch turn into bottle-bombs, do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T20:47:37.627" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12814" CreationDate="2014-09-02T22:30:38.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This cooler should not give you any significant loss for a &quot;normal&quot; mash at ambient temps (~70F). This is exactly the kind I use and I typically see 1 degree or less lost over 75 minutes. When I do an overnight mash (8-12 hours), it loses ~30 degrees. Make sure you use the correct strike temp; add your water, then grains to water slowly while stirring and you should have no difficulty. Check the temp and adjust to reach your mash temp (see below) and then close the lid reasonably tight and don't open it until you're done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the thermometer with boiling and freezing water in a different container. I have a cheap digital thermometer, and it's OK, but typically, I just use the dial thermometer I installed in my tun. As long as I look at it straight on, it's pretty good for reading accurately, and every few months when I fully clean the tun, I also check the calibration. 9 degrees sounds like a lot in 15 minutes, but then perhaps you had warmer and cooler spots. If you stir your mash properly, the heat should be evenly distributed. Stir, stir, stir as this will give you better efficiency and more even distribution of heat and help avoid any clumps of grain not getting mashed. Some people spring for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002GIZZWM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thermapen&lt;/a&gt; and they are nice; near immediate, accurate readings, but will set you back a c note. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you miss your mash temp, add hot water to raise it, cold (or tap temp) to lower; start small and stir well. You should not have to adjust other than that for a 60-75 minute mash. I normally don't change it for a 90-120 minute mash, even though it loses 4 to 5 degrees by the time it's done. Preheating your cooler with consistently warm water (like your highest tap temp) will help even out your strike temps (because it's always hitting the cooler at the same temp) and will prevent you from cracking the cooler wall if it's really cold when you add the strike water (storing it inside will help avoid this). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T22:30:38.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12812" CreationDate="2014-09-02T22:42:31.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;DME is very easy to work with when adding to cool water. It's a pain to add to hot wort (like a late addition) as the heat makes it clump. If you are adding it to wort (like from steeping grains), it's easiest to add it to a separate container with cool water and stirred first. In the end, the yeast will eat the clumps, but it makes it near impossible to get an accurate starting gravity reading if you have a bunch of clumps. For late additions added directly to the boil, I'd recommend LME. If you are doing a knockout addition, and you also plan to top up (like a stove-top, partial boil), then you can add the dme to some of the cold top up water first, then add it to the kettle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T22:42:31.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12814" CreationDate="2014-09-03T03:27:43.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a 10-gallon Home Depot cooler to build my mash tun, and I have no trouble with heat loss during a mash. The initial heat loss is due to the difference in temperature between the hot water and the cool grain and mash tun itself. After the temperature stabilizes (the cool parts have warmed up) the temperature should remain plenty stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to account for the initial heat loss by heating the strike water above the target mash temperature. Software can help a great deal with determining the temperature of your strike water. It varies, depending on the type of mash tun and the amount of grain. I use the free &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtarget.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewtarget&lt;/a&gt; myself, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerSmith&lt;/a&gt; seems to be the most popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the leaky mash tun, I haven't encountered that. I ordered a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/bronze-cooler-valve-kit-w-barb.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cooler conversion kit from Northern Brewer&lt;/a&gt;, and it worked with no cooler modification required. I used two coolers and two of those kits, one each for mash tun and HLT. No leaks, no fuss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated by others, it's easy enough to adjust your mash temperature by adding hot (really hot!) or cold water in small amounts until you hit your target. I've found it's much easier to err high and then adjust down with cold water than to try to have boiling hot water available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T03:27:43.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12825" CreationDate="2014-09-03T03:39:39.493" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting hops in the fermenter after fermentation is called dry-hopping. Some brewers do this to get more hop aroma. (See &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hops#Brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hops#Brewing&lt;/a&gt;) However, that would be with new hops, not the ones you already boiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T03:39:39.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12812" CreationDate="2014-09-03T05:41:41.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use DME for bottle priming, and occasionally I will add some to my wort. To avoid clumping, I place the desired amount of DME into a sanitized plastic bottle, add some hot water and cap. The DME gradually dissolves, but I give the bottle a few shakes if I wish to speed up the dissolving process. When fully dissolved, I pour contents of bottle into fermenter or bottling bucket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some guidance notes from Coopers (I use their LDME): &quot;To avoid clumping, place into the fermenter first, add 1-2 litres of hot water and swirl the contents until dissolved (do not stir with a spoon). Once dissolved, add Coopers beer kit and other fermentable sugars as desired and mix as usual).&quot; This is why I use hot rather than cold water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why &quot;do not stir with a spoon&quot;? I don't know, but I observe this instruction and encounter no clumping or other problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T05:41:41.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-03T10:00:57.653" Score="1" ViewCount="2145" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first ever batch is going fine and next weekend I will bottle my first beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can get this type of bottles for cheap (no need to buy capper, and caps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://images.fineartamerica.com/images-medium-large/german-beer-bottle-suhas-tavkar.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://images.fineartamerica.com/images-medium-large/german-beer-bottle-suhas-tavkar.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are single use. Is this type of bottle good for bottling beer (priming sugar etc)? I'm a bit scared that the gasses might escape from such a bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8165" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-28T12:31:09.230" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T13:34:22.663" Title="Can I re-use swing top bottles?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|bottle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12834" CreationDate="2014-09-03T13:55:35.110" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are called swing-top bottles, and they're fine for re-use as long as they originally contained a carbonated drink like beer, and the glass has no chips or cracks. The usual advice regarding re-using commercial bottles applies here. First make sure they are clean, and then sanitize them before filling with delicious homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to clean bottles is make sure they never get dirty. After drinking the beer, rinse the bottle before the dregs have dried out, and before any mould or fungus has had a chance to grow. If the bottles are grimy inside, a 24-hour soak in OxyClean followed with a thorough rinse should dislodge any gunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different ways to sanitize, but I find that dunking the bottles for a minute or two in a bucket of no-rinse sanitizer (like StarSan) and then draining, is the simplest and quickest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T13:55:35.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12841" CreationDate="2014-09-03T18:12:48.070" Score="1" ViewCount="2914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some hard cider nearly ready to be bottled, and I am wondering if using pasteurized sweet cider as a primer would be a reasonable option. That is, I would mix in an appropriate volume of sweet cider to my fermented cider, bottle it all, and the fermentation of the added sweet cider would be sufficient to carbonate the bottles. I see the following potential benefits/drawbacks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More bottles of cider from a single fermented batch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can tweak the final flavor based on the sweet cider I use to prime&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Greater risk of contamination &amp;amp; better environment for contaminates to grow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less accuracy in obtaining desired carbonation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slightly reduced ABV verses adding sugar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has someone tried this, or something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8168" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T18:49:47.987" Title="Bottling Hard Cider - can I prime with sweet cider?" Tags="|cider|priming|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12810" CreationDate="2014-09-03T20:35:53.543" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I very much disagree with Denny Conn. I always do a secondary fermentation unless I forget or am lazy. It's good to get the beer off the sediment to reduce off flavors and have an opportunity to taste the beer and take a hydrometer reading. I also usually do the primary in a plastic bucket which I don't like to leave my beer fermenting in for long periods of time. Basically, you can move the beer to the secondary anytime after the initial fermentation is over. I feel like higher gravity beers need this most since it gives the beer some time to develop flavor and mellow out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastEditorUserId="8127" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T21:33:07.530" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T21:33:07.530" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12807" CreationDate="2014-09-03T20:41:02.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We usually toss the entire starter in our batches of beer and we haven't noticed any detectable off flavors from doing so. It's probably better to decant but I haven't noticed any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T20:41:02.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12793" CreationDate="2014-09-03T20:51:47.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience, Sorachi Ace hops can give a strange flavor and can be a challenge to work with. The first time we brewed with them, we took the slight &quot;rubber band&quot; taste as an indicator of bad yeast as described by the godfather of brewing, Charlie Papazian. After tasting other Sorachi Ace beers, it became clear that Sorachi Ace hops have an unusual flavor all to their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also pretty much over single hop beers myself. Some hops are just better for different purposes. If you don't like the way your beer is already turning out, I would use a different hop for dry hopping. Or maybe forget dry hopping period? Adding more Sorachi Ace will only strengthen the unusual taste. I think the best place for Sorachi Ace is in the background - probably good to use it as a dry hop while using other hops for bittering and flavor so it can add an extra element to the beer instead of being featured as the single flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for our Sorachi Ace beer, we pretty much gave most of them away as a failed experiment to close brewer friends. With time, the hop flavor dissipated somewhat and the beer became more tolerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T20:51:47.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12807" CreationDate="2014-09-04T02:22:10.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here I'll list potential issues and give my assessment of whether they are real (based on 1.5 l starter made of pale malt or light DME, and 20 l batch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Body/ABV will change because of potential dilution. Not really: say, the starter is made to be of 1.040 OG. The average beer is 1.050 AG. The dilution is negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;IBU will change because of dilution. Not really. The calculated IBU might change, say, from 30 to 27, but whether the change in bitterness will be perceived, I doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Different sort of malt used for starter will change the beer taste. Not really: it's just 0.3-0.5 kg of base malt used for starter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Beer will degrade because of oxidized starter. Not really. First, you're aerating the batch before pitching the starter, anyway. Second, what some beer flavour stability experts say (recently heard that in Beersmith podcast), active yeast will clean up those oxidation byproducts, and you're certain to get some yeast activity.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T02:22:10.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12836" CreationDate="2014-09-04T04:51:45.683" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't really agree with your pro and con list. Assuming you're able to calculate the right amount of sweet apple cider to add for priming, and this should be fairly simple arithmetic based on brix and volume, there's no real difference compared to adding table sugar or dextrose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you keep things simple and use sugar for priming. If you're looking to get a bit more apple flavour and sweetness in the final product, put an ounce of apple juice concentrate in the glass before pouring a bottle of carbonated hard cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T04:51:45.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12827" CreationDate="2014-09-04T08:26:44.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your &quot;exploded&quot; beer, you must have had an underattenuated batch. FG of 1.020 is not acceptable, unless you brewed a RIS, and I doubt you did. The yeast must have stalled because of e.g. cold conditions, or you might have guessed he fermentation is over just because the airlock stopped bubbling (and it may stop bubbling long before the real fermentation is over!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I recently bottled underattenuated beer, then realized it soon enough to be able to put it back to the fermenter. Will do some krauzening to remove possible oxidation.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, as for now, your focus is on pitching more yeast. I'd pitch double the normal rate. Just don't forget to aerate the beer properly. Add a small amount of yeast nutrient. The beer may get overly dry, so increase the share of carapils/oats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T08:26:44.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12827" CreationDate="2014-09-04T16:29:13.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your immediate crisis, I am not sure this is salvageable. Why? Because you need at least several days to fully attenuate (ferment) your beer, and a minimum two weeks to bottle condition it (ideally three weeks plus 24 hrs. in the fridge). There will be little time for the yeast to clean up &quot;green beer&quot; flavors and aromas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try, what I recommend is going to the LHBS today and brewing a mild ale tonight. A mild ale is a very low gravity beer that used to be popular in England, and it can be very dark. So it can seem similar to a stout. They can be brewed very quickly. They are often served from casks, which means they are usually only lightly carbonated. Milds are also meant to be brewed quick and are tolerant of fruity esters you may get from high fermentation temps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very quaffable brew. @jsled's recipe is probably also a good one due to its low gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a clone of an award-winning recipe (Dry Dock's SS Minnow Mild, 2008 GABF silver medal). I am replacing the brown malt with Crystal 65L because IMO brown malt needs long-term conditioning before it mellows. You may wish to substitute it back. I also substituted the London Ale yeast with Nottingham dry yeast so you don't have to make a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dry Dock's SS Minnow Mild clone recipe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 gallons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG 1.037&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG expected around 1.008&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Main Fermentables&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.000  lbs. Light DME&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Specialty grains&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.625 lbs English Medium Crystal malt&#xA;0.375 lbs Briess Caramel 120L malt&#xA;0.1875 lbs English Chocolate Malt malt&#xA;0.1875 lbs Crystal 65L malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hops&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;1 oz East Kent Goldings (45 min) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Yeast&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Danstar Nottingham dry yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Other&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whirlfloc (1/4 tablet) (5 min. left in boil), or use Irish moss per label directions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Instructions&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collect 2.5 gallons of good water in your kettle. Good water means not chlorinated. Use RO water (fill your own jugs at grocery store) if you have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steep the specialty grains for 20 min. at 170°F. Bring to a boil, remove kettle from heat, and add LME. Restart the boil.  Watch out for boilovers -- you don't need to compound problems. It is a 1 hour boil, and hops go in with 45 minutes left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile boil and cool some water. Rehydrate your yeast: take 110 ml (110 grams by weight) of your cool water in a small sanitized container, bring it up to 90°F +/- 2 degrees in the microwave. Sprinkle your yeast onto the water and let sit for 20 minutes. Then stir it up with a sanitized fork or something until it is creamy. Yeast is ready to pitch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cool wort after one hour boil to 67°F or as close as you can get, add to fermenter, top off with good water to exactly 5 gallons. Now shake the living bejesus out of it. I mean like five minutes of heart-thumping rocking. Now pitch yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to ferment it in the 68 to 72°F range. If fermentation is not done in 72 hours (see the expected FG), you may need to warm it up to as high as high 70s due to shortage of time. This is a higher temp than I would normally ferment at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Whirlfloc is crucial for clarity because you have no time for particulates to settle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bottling: Prime accurately, use table sugar boiled in water, mix sugar water in very well, bottle, and bottle condition/keep in the low-70s °F until 24 hours before serving time. Chill for 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T16:29:13.373" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12847" CreationDate="2014-09-04T19:26:12.077" Score="1" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was starting to setup a jockey box and cornelius pin-lock kegs to enjoy my last batch, when I noticed that I was without my pin lock liquid quick disconnect. Well, a friend brought one, and then everything went right, but before that, I was thinking if I could run the sistem without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My beer was already carbonated, and my plan was to bleed off the CO2, and them remove the liquid post of my keg, resulting in expose the threaded fitting of the keg itself. Then fit the hose with a hose clamp and then put the CO2 again and run the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T18:31:57.813" Title="Can I run a corny keg without liquid post?" Tags="|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12825" CreationDate="2014-09-05T03:34:56.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My protocol is to chill the wort in the kettle (I use an immersion chiller), then &quot;stir it like crazy&quot; -- it's called whirlpooling -- then wait at least an hour (I usually brew after dark, so I leave the covered kettle overnight) and siphon the wort into the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This helps to remove both hops and hot&amp;amp;cold break material, which may give off-flavours to beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Straining hops from pellets is a nightmare, and I wouldn't advise that to anyone. I usually use hop bags, anyway, so I whirlpool&amp;amp;siphon only to get rid of break material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to just discard the remaining ~1 l (in my setup) of liquid in the kettle, but last time I strained it, gave it a quick boil and added to the fermenter. Some people actually save that portion for later krauzening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T03:34:56.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12848" CreationDate="2014-09-05T15:06:58.397" Score="6" ViewCount="2602" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would one calculate the ABV of a beer if distilled spirits were added?  For instance, when making a beer recipe that called for adding bourbon as a flavoring agent.  If you started with, say, 5 US gallons of beer at 5% ABV and you added 1 quart of &quot;80 proof&quot; spirits, how would one calculate the resulting ABV?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T22:28:36.637" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T14:26:04.763" Title="How is ABV calculated if distilled spirits are added to beer?" Tags="|calculations|alcohol-content|bourbon|vodka|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12844" CreationDate="2014-09-05T15:38:52.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should work.  I think that the length of the threading isn't much.  It might not even be as tall as a standard hose clamp so there isn't much to 'grab' onto.  But it doesn't hurt to try.  You might be able to find female threaded hose barb you could but on there too give you a better tube connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T15:38:52.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12846" CreationDate="2014-09-05T16:27:26.940" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems like a simple solution dilution problem. Take&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;5 gallons = 20 quarts =&amp;gt; 20 quarts * 5% ABV = 1 quart alcohol.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then take your 1 quart of &quot;80 proof&quot; (40% ABV), and we get &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 quart * 0.4 = 0.4 quarts alcohol&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we have a total volume of 21 quarts (beer plus spirits) and a total of 1.4 quarts alcohol, thus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1.4 / 21 = 6.67% ABV&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless I'm missing something about ABV percentage, &lt;code&gt;6.67%&lt;/code&gt; should be the final answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, if we have (making sure we are using consistent units)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;O - the original volume, in quarts&#xA;A - the volume of spirits to add, in quarts&#xA;s - the % ABV of the original volume&#xA;p - the % ABV of the spirits&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then we can use the general formula below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;((O * s) + (A * p)) / (O + A)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2014-09-09T14:26:04.763" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T14:26:04.763" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12820" CreationDate="2014-09-05T21:49:06.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can still use your hops, however buy some lady bugs or praying mantis' they will destroy the aphids. Also try planting marigolds near the hops it attracts lady bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8172" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T21:49:06.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-06T15:15:03.100" Score="4" ViewCount="465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just discovered a reasonable crop of hops climbing a fir tree in my back garden!  Any advice on how to identify the variety?  I'm in London UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQafn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8069" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T18:31:36.700" Title="Identifying mystery hops" Tags="|hops|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12850" CreationDate="2014-09-06T15:33:32.463" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've spoken with hop growers and wholesalers about this before, and short of a DNA analysis there is almost no way to know for certain.  You can make a rough guess based on the appearance of the hops and history of the area, but that's about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T15:33:32.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12850" CreationDate="2014-09-06T18:09:39.640" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you can't identify the strain, you can try using the cones to brew test batches, to see if it's any good as bittering hops, aroma or flavor. I did this with a batch of random &quot;ornamental&quot; hops, and liked the results enough to try to cultivate them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8175" LastEditorUserId="8175" LastEditDate="2014-09-06T18:31:36.700" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T18:31:36.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12532" CreationDate="2014-09-06T23:09:36.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not as bad as you think. Remember, you have 20 l of beer. It takes time to warm it up and time to cool, so temperature fluctuations in the fermenter will be smoothed. I would wrap the fermenter in a blanket and leave like that for the normal fermentation time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T23:09:36.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-07T20:00:38.543" Score="3" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;After adding a sachet of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lalvinyeast.com/71B.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;71B yeast&lt;/a&gt; to a 50ml starter at about 40 °C, I've noticed absolutely no activity. The yeast sunk to the bottom of the container and just stayed there. This is the first time I experience this problem (at least I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; it's a problem). Usually, the there will be a layer of froth and some minor bubbling in the container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only difference between this time and the 14 or so times I've done this before is that the yeast were frozen rather than refrigerated. According to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lalvinyeast.com/freezing_Dried_Yeast.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page at Lalvin's website&lt;/a&gt;, freezing their yeast for storage is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already tried 3 sachets of frozen yeast and got the same odd result. I've just inoculated the last starter mixture because I thought I'm just being too paranoid. I hope I am, and I hope I'll see a thin layer of foam on top of my must in the next few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3054" LastEditorUserId="3054" LastEditDate="2014-09-07T22:02:14.477" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T20:25:59.187" Title="Is it okay to freeze dry yeast at around -20 °C?" Tags="|yeast|wine|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12855" CreationDate="2014-09-08T08:47:08.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out that, at least in my case, freezing the dry yeast is actually a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made an experiment last night and I put two sachets of ICV D-47 in the freezer and two sachets in the fridge. This morning I took both of them out and let them warm up in the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the same activating mixture I've always used (some must + some nutrients) and split it into 4x 50ml portions. I pitched the yeast into the four bowls and waited 10-15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, the two frozen yeasts sunk to the bottom and appeared completely dormant, while the ones kept in the fridge were active and had already formed a frothy layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Apparently, the effect of freezing is almost diminished after I kept the yeast in room temperature for a couple of days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3054" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T20:25:59.187" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T20:25:59.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12861" CreationDate="2014-09-08T14:24:39.983" Score="4" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roasted and kilned malts are often used to lower the pH of the mash. Which chemicals are created by the roasting process that have such a low pH?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8179" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T18:38:30.697" Title="Component of roasted malt that lowers pH" Tags="|mash|mash-ph|specialty-malt|ph|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12787" CreationDate="2014-09-08T14:44:33.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This mill attachment looks like it might actually be usable for brewing. Most kitchen mills are not, because they will reduce the husk to a fine powder. However, without seeing the internals of this mill I can't say for sure that it would work, and I suspect you won't have fine control over the gap of the rollers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8180" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T14:44:33.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12862" CreationDate="2014-09-08T15:41:24.530" Score="11" ViewCount="13462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using these big mouth bubbler's as my secondary fermentation now for a few months:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W8bR2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was originally using them as primary as well, but being one that makes pretty high gravity beers, I was scared of the pressure build up inside even with a blow off tube, and what could potentially happen if the blow off tube got plugged up and too much pressure built up inside.  I am however unsure if having used them as primary before could have potentially weakened the container a from having held a lot of pressure at one point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway last week I had one filled up with 5 or so gallons and carried it down to my basement as my secondary.  And upon setting it on the ground (concrete ground, probably my first mistake), when it hit the ground the bottom shattered and beer went everywhere.  I've already fixed that mistake by making a padded area to place these on now when bringing them to the basement, but I'm pretty terrified of this ever happening again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible using these as a primary weakened it to make this scenario more likely?  Are there other precautions I should be taking to make sure this never happens again?  Is this just a constant risk when using large glass containers?  Any other horror stories I should know about and strive to avoid?  I'm starting to think I shouldn't use glass anymore because I'm terrified this could happen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3997" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T19:20:33.483" LastActivityDate="2024-01-20T08:25:06.303" Title="I just had my Big Mouth Bubbler carboy shatter, now I'm terrified" Tags="|carboy|glass|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12859" CreationDate="2014-09-08T15:47:17.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, it pretty much is a constant risk.  I broke 3 before I stopped using glass, one of them by just setting it carefully on a carpeted floor.  I finally switched over to buckets and wonder why I didn't do it sooner.  I've brewed over 400 batches using bucket fermenters and I have yet to find a down side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T15:47:17.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12857" CreationDate="2014-09-08T18:38:30.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According the &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Mash_pH_control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brau Kaiser&lt;/a&gt;, it's acidic melanoidins. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melanoidin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Melanoidins&lt;/a&gt; are composed of sugars and amino acids, and are created through the Maillard reaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T18:38:30.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12859" CreationDate="2014-09-08T19:12:24.327" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Northern Brewer/Midwest has come under a lot of pressure as of lately regarding their glass Big Mouth Bubbler product line.  They've &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/2c53y4/i_emailed_midwest_about_issues_with_their_glass/&quot;&gt;confirmed&lt;/a&gt; that they are curating their reviews that are submitted to the site.  If they are negative, they claim to contact the reviewer personally to resolve their complaints and remove the negative review.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do a search for the product on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/review/product/list/id/6937/&quot;&gt;Northern Brewer's website&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00GXUXW74&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;, you'll see two very contrasting sets of ratings.  There is not one mention of it shattering on their review system, and just about every review on Amazon makes mention of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People have gone to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/239y8z/shattered_carboys/&quot;&gt;E.R. over the Big Mouth Bubbler&lt;/a&gt; (blood warning).  Consider yourself very fortunate.  Many people have reported malformations in the glass since they are individually hand blown.  Others claim they don't sit up straight, but the one common trend all have claimed is how thin the glass is.  One person even claimed to have seen it flex and wobble when it's full of liquid; something glass should never do!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shattering on you has little to do with wear and tear, and more with poor construction.  The common advice to homebrewers is to not purchase the glass Big Mouth Bubbler.  I've heard of no less than 10-20 complaints regarding them all shattering.  Do your fellow homebrewers a favor and alert them to this, you may be saving them a very dangerous, even deadly investment.  I've also heard a lot of complaints about the poor quality of the plastic version as well, particularly with the lid being difficult to work with.  At least the plastic version won't kill you your send you to the E.R. with lacerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contact Northern Brewer/Midwest and have them either refund you or send a plastic replacement.  They're support is a stark contrast to this product.  I've heard nothing but praise regarding their customer support.  It's unfortunate that when it comes to your health and safety (and that of those around/under you when things go awry), the same cannot be said regarding their product, which they are marketing very, very hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  For those showing up late to the game, it would appear that Northern Brewer/Midwest removed their glass Big Mouth Bubblers from Amazon (still available on their own websites), and one can only speculate the cause being the overwhelming negative reviews it received (last time I saw, it was hovering between one to two stars out of five).  It would seem that they also have begun to allow one or two (literally, that's all) negative reviews of their products exist on their own sites, again speculating that it's to cover their bases and give the appearance that they don't delete (&lt;em&gt;cough&lt;/em&gt; every one of &lt;em&gt;cough&lt;/em&gt;) their negative reviews.  The advice still stands.  Do not buy this product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T05:35:03.453" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T05:35:03.453" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12820" CreationDate="2014-09-08T21:28:48.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Insecticidal soap can knock them back as well with no harm to the plants.  I've got bigger issues in my backyard today... Snow.  Way too early and probably going to lose the harvest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2436" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T21:28:48.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12870" CreationDate="2014-09-08T22:43:27.310" Score="7" ViewCount="2928" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2014/06/balancing-your-draft-system-three.html&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; about balancing a draft system, and came across this assertion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do not place your kegerator in your basement.  A catastrophic failure&#xA;  could cause the tank to drain, flooding your basement with CO2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, CO2 is not toxic itself, but will displace atmosphere (and hence oxygen) and so can create an asphyxiation risk in confined spaces. CO2 asphyxiation in fermentation tanks &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23316776&quot;&gt;has been recognized as a workplace hazard&lt;/a&gt; in the winemaking industry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely the risk is inversely proportional to the size of the basement, and directly proportional to the the quantity of CO2 released. My basement is around 800 square feet (and not very well sealed -- it's an old house), and my CO2 tank contains 5 pounds of gas when full. Does this combination present any risks to my family?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T20:01:47.300" Title="Is leaking CO2 a health concern?" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12866" CreationDate="2014-09-09T02:06:15.507" Score="1" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am following the online course to all grain brewing on &quot;craft beer and brewing&quot; and in the lautering sectiong they explain to collect the first runnings and to put them back on top of the grain bed. This is done to avoid leaving particulates in the wort. They suggest to collect something like 4 cups and do the process 5 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like a really inefficient way to simply filter out particles. Why not simply use a strainer for the first gallon of wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something here (other than tradition of course!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3733" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T13:34:33.223" Title="Lautering: Filter first runnings using a strainer" Tags="|mash|all-grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12865" CreationDate="2014-09-09T03:29:38.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is called &quot;vorlauf&quot; and yes, it is traditional. That being said, it's also a highly effective way of producing a clear sweet wort. I would guess that you'd need a fairly fine filter, not just a mesh strainer, to achieve the same level of clarity produced by recirculating a few quarts of wort. The filter would need to be so fine that you'd either need a lot of patience to wait for the wort to drip through, or some means of adding pressure to force it through. The grain bed is surprisingly good at filtering out the very small particles that cloud the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T03:29:38.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-09T10:26:12.717" Score="1" ViewCount="2154" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am brewing lots of bitters using WLP002. Typically, I mash a grist with around 10-15% specialty malts at 66 C and ferment at 20 C. (I use BIAB and dunk sparging.) The typical situation is that after 2 weeks the SG is around 1.013 with all activity stopped, a huge cake of cheesy WLP002 on the bottom of the fermenter. Samples taste great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I bottle the beer, and sometimes fermentation kicks in again, the finished beer reaching SG 1.008, or even lower! Needless to say, I am not too happy about these over-carbonated and dry beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bitters are probably not infected, I am very meticulous in my process, and it is only 002 that behaves like this for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this? The closest plausible explanation I have is that the usual low attenuation is due to extreme flocculation. Rousing the yeast just a little bit at bottling time starts the fermentation again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T05:33:16.313" Title="Why does WLP002 sometimes attenuate more?" Tags="|yeast|attenuation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12865" CreationDate="2014-09-09T13:34:33.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The whole &quot;Brew in a Bag&quot; methodology is based on using a very fine bag to filter the wort, just as you suggest. Its certainly feasible and something a lot of home brewers do (it doesn't scale up to pro-brewing sizes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T13:34:33.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12864" CreationDate="2014-09-09T15:07:31.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/chem00/chem00306.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; we get the conversion of &lt;code&gt;1kg of CO2 to 509.1 liters&lt;/code&gt;. Scaling up to your &lt;code&gt;5 pounds = 2.26796 kilograms&lt;/code&gt;, and thus &lt;code&gt;509.1 liters * 2.26796 = 1155 liters&lt;/code&gt;, which is about &lt;code&gt;40.8 cubic feet&lt;/code&gt;. Spreading this throughout your basement, (assuming an 8 foot ceiling, for a volume of 6400 cubic feet), only adds &lt;code&gt;40 / 6400 = 0.625%&lt;/code&gt; CO2 to the entire room. While this is a significant jump from the normal &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmosphere_of_Earth#Composition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;0.0397%&lt;/a&gt;, it &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_dioxide#Toxicity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shouldn't present a problem&lt;/a&gt;, even if you lived down there the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypercapnia#Tolerance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rest of your life&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you're safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2014-09-09T20:01:47.300" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T20:01:47.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12864" CreationDate="2014-09-09T15:22:22.010" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, at homebrew scale and in household settings leaking CO2 is not a serious concern, and is probably very low on the list of &quot;occupational&quot; hazards that homebrewers are at risk of and fail to recognize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before getting into the math, you must realize that almost all houses are leaky in the sense that inside air is mixing with outside air, either because they are actually leaky or because the newer, &quot;tight&quot; houses have efficient air exchange systems.  Secondly, CO2 gas does not &quot;push out&quot; air, nor does it sink, but rather it will mix because all gases want to be dispersed evenly throughout the available volume, subject to other things that inhibit mixing (see Dalton's Law, the combined gas law, etc.) Even your walking through some leaking CO2 gas will mix it, so you will never have a &quot;blanket&quot; of CO2 waiting to suffocate you (nor sitting only in the bottom half of the headspace  of your fermenter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume your basement is sealed and air tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the volume of one mole of gas at STP (standard temperature and pressure) occupies 22.4 liters, and one one mole of CO2 has a mass of 44.1g. This means that 5 lbs. of CO2 comprises 51.4276644 moles and 5 lbs. of CO2 occupies a volume of 1151.979683 liters or 40.68 cubic feet. Your basement is (800 sq. feet x 8 feet high), if I assume an eight foot ceiling, or 6,400 cubic feet. Thus, if you released all of the CO2 in your tank at once, it would occupy 0.64% of the volume of the room, and will mix freely with the other gases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is this level toxic? Let's see how much CO2 would be mixed in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal atmosphere has approximately 78.09% nitrogen, 20.95% oxygen, 0.93% argon, and 0.04% CO2, as well as some small amounts of other gases and around 1% water vapor. If you mixed in 40.68 cubic feet of CO2 into 6,400 cubic feet of normal atmosphere, you would end up with 77.59% nitrogen, 20.82% oxygen, 0.92% argon, and 0.67% CO2.  As you can see, this is not a huge increase in CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, Wikipedia says that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_dioxide#Toxicity&quot;&gt;&quot;in concentrations up to 1% (10,000 ppm), it will make some people feel drowsy. Concentrations of 7% to 10% may cause suffocation, even in the presence of sufficient oxygen.&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, CO2 is not like CO in that it binds to your hemoglobin and asphyxiates you -- you will respirate excess CO2 as soon as you get back into normal air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I think that there is little risk of asphyxiation from your ordinary 5 or even 10-lb. CO2 tank in a household environment. Yet, it is always good to be cautious anyway, especially in especially confined spaces, and if children and pets are around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T15:22:22.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12859" CreationDate="2014-09-09T15:36:28.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In response to your question about precautions, to add to the other good advice, both Northern Brewer and Midwest Supplies recommend using their brew hauler that is specially tailored to the Big Mouth Bubbler glass fermenter for moving them around. This is probably good advice for any glass carboy -- the cost of this webbing-based system is only about US$10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T15:36:28.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12844" CreationDate="2014-09-09T18:31:57.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a hard time picturing what you're talking about, but it should work as long as you have the two key components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pick-up tube that goes to the bottom of the keg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A seal good enough to withstand the pressure of the co2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8180" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T18:31:57.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12770" CreationDate="2014-09-09T18:37:58.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are probably fine, but there are some possible bad side effects to the flavor from over-pitching. Per the wyeast website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;High pitch rates can lead to:&#xA;  Very low ester production&#xA;  Very fast fermentations&#xA;  Thin or lacking body/mouthfeel&#xA;  Autolysis (Yeasty flavors due to lysing of cells)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8180" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T18:37:58.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12867" CreationDate="2014-09-09T20:57:51.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be for a few reasons: 1. Underpitching (not enough yeast), 2. Insufficient wort aeration before pitching, 3. Cold shock, 4. Old yeast that you bought in a store -- well the last one is actually underpitching again. What to do: 1. Make a good 1.5-2 l starter, start it 2-4 days before the brew day, 2. Aerate wort well, not just swirl it in a fermenter for 5 sec, 3. Some say, slightly rocking the fermenter helps to rouse dormnant yeast (never helped me). 4. Krauzening. The latter made miracles for me. The idea is to preserve 1-2 liters of wort (put in a sterile bottle and in a fridge) at brew day, then ignite it with new yeast when your main fermentation is 90% through. When that small portion seems to be on fermentation peak, pour it into the main beer (I tried also &quot;injecting&quot; it into the yeast cake using a (sterile) pipe and a funnel, can't say it makes difference though).  You can certainly do 1,2,4 altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T20:57:51.080" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12876" CreationDate="2014-09-10T04:38:02.223" Score="3" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently relocated to Denver and found some excellent advice in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3680/brewing-at-altitude&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; but I was wondering since drj mentioned that since carbonation is an issue how that will affect my nitro setup and carbing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current process is to carb (using CO2) to about 7-8psi and then switch to beergas(75/25) that I set to 32-33psi. Will this need to be altered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any help! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6866" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T12:00:24.153" Title="High Altitude Nitro" Tags="|carbonation|pressure|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12875" CreationDate="2014-09-10T12:00:24.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The carbonation process shouldn't matter with respect to your altitude.  Inside your keg is a closed system. So the same rules of temperature and pressure applied will get you the same volumes of CO2.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rate at which the beer 'de-carbs' in the glass IS effected by your altitude however. So if you find that the beer is getting too flat to quickly, well then maybe you want to up your carbonation volume by 10% until it seems right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T12:00:24.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12886" CreationDate="2014-09-10T14:57:42.350" Score="0" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading White Labs' &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew/starter-tips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrew Starter Tips&lt;/a&gt; page, and the following got me thinking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Keeping the Original Gravity low is important because you want to keep the yeast in its growth phase, rather than its fermentation phase.  The fermentation phase will create alcohol which can be toxic to yeast in high concentrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the goal is to provide nutrients and oxygen to the yeast to induce growth while avoiding fermentation, wouldn't a very dextrinous wort be best? Would it make sense to produce the starter wort by steeping Carapils alone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T15:00:19.017" Title="Pure Carapils starter wort?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12877" CreationDate="2014-09-10T16:26:05.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After further thought, I suppose the yeast would require &quot;fermentable&quot; sugars to power the growth phase so a highly dextrinous wort wouldn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T16:26:05.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2014-09-11T02:14:23.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I just made my first batch.  Tastes great .. but ..  I think I was clean, and I thought it was done carbonating.  I got one  bottle bomb after 7 days .. so I refrigerated the rest. I how have drunk  two other bottles, They both were only a little over-carbonated, but I daren't leave them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8194" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T02:14:23.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-11T04:33:27.467" Score="2" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading some topics about corny-keg fermentors and became interested in that. So I was wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I ferment in a sealed keg with the liquid side plugged into another keg, by its liquid side to, can I expect that the pressure built by the yeast in primary is able to transfer the beer to the secondary one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, how much time that it would takes to happen? Can I expect some attenuation or it will be so fast that primary wouldn't be done yet? If so, how much time/attenuation should I wait with simple air lock in the gas side of the keg and even so be able to do this hypothetical 'auto-transfer' (transfer with the CO2 built by the yeast instead of CO2 tank)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that is possible, it seems to be a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T16:56:02.310" Title="'Auto-transfer' to secondary corny keg fermentors?" Tags="|fermentation|corny-keg|racking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-11T13:07:09.690" Score="1" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed my second beer, it's starting gravity was 1120. It didn't seem to want to get a gravity below 1050 after 9 days, so i added champagne yeast. Two days later it dropped down to 1042. 4 days later it's still 1042. What's wrong with this if anything? Or does anyone think it will drop more? And do i want it to drop more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8195" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-09-11T14:08:11.727" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T07:35:43.490" Title="Really strong beer's gravity (1.120) won't drop below 1.042" Tags="|beer|first-time-brewer|brewing|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12880" CreationDate="2014-09-11T13:20:18.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see a potential problem in that as the first waves of beer flow out into the secondary keg, they aren't yet done fermenting. So its like you're racking some of the beer to secondary on the very first day of fermenation. I would worry that this would shock the yeast somehow in the secondary keg and you'd get a stalled out fermentation there. Furthermore, you'd have a bunch of trub in the secondary, as the beer there finishes fermenting (assuming it does ferment out), so you'd have to rack again to a third keg to serve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T13:20:18.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12880" CreationDate="2014-09-11T13:58:09.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what will end up happening is something like…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After lag and reproduction, the yeast will start to ferment, and pressure will build up on the fermenting corny. This will slowly push still-fermenting wort into the second carboy, though perhaps following some of the trub that will have settled out first. At some point, the two cornys will reach an equilibrium, where both are &quot;full&quot; of fermenting beer. Given one is sealed and one is air-locked, I don't think it will be 50/50, but maybe 40/60 or 30/70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, there will still be fermentation effects (flocculated yeast and trub) in both cornys, and still a requirement to transfer/rack … both of which seems to defeat the imagined purposes of the experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it'll work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(But there's only one way to find out for sure. For science! ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-09-12T16:56:02.310" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T16:56:02.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12880" CreationDate="2014-09-11T14:38:52.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the pressure from fermentation to transfer from the fermenter to a serving keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you'll want a &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/item/397-build-your-own-spunding-valve-to-carbonate-in-the-keg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spunding valve&lt;/a&gt; on the fermenter to control the pressure by releasing gas after the target pressure has been reached. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When fermentation is complete, pressurize the serving keg with CO2 to slightly less pressure than what's showing on the spunding valve. Be careful with this part. If you pressurize too much, when you connect the kegs, gas will move from the serving keg to the fermenter, disturbing the sediment. If you pressurize too little, the beer will flow quickly into the serving keg, foaming up and making it difficult to transfer all the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connect the &quot;out&quot; side of the fermenter to the &quot;out&quot; side of the serving keg with a short length of beer line. If you've done the pressure balancing right, beer should flow slowly into the serving keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you need to &lt;strong&gt;slowly&lt;/strong&gt; relieve the pressure in the serving keg. I use a length of line attached to a quick release at one end, with a ball valve in the middle. Open the valve slightly -- just until you can hear some gas escaping. If you relieve the pressure too quickly, the beer fill foam, and you'll have trouble filling the keg, so go slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fermenter did not have adequate pressure when beginning the transfer, you might need to hook up a CO2 tank and regulator to finish the job. I've found that 35psi at room temperature is just about adequate to get the job done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my experience has been that some yeast strains do poorly in a high pressure environment. It's trial and error, as this is not documented anywhere that I can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-09-11T16:31:19.227" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T16:31:19.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12877" CreationDate="2014-09-11T15:00:19.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer from White Labs is kinda misleading.  There really aren't discreet phases like that.  The Crabtree Effect saya that in the presence of a &gt;.05% glucose solution, fermentation will begin immediately.  Carapils does have fermentable sugars,although not to as great a degree as other malts.  You could use carapils for a starter, although it may not be the best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T15:00:19.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12881" CreationDate="2014-09-11T15:02:20.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentability is more realted to the wort than the yeast.  Given what you posted, my bet is that you made a wort high in unfermentables and may not get much more attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T15:02:20.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12881" CreationDate="2014-09-11T17:40:04.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I tried to post this as a comment on Denny's answer, but it wouldn't let me.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11136/consistently-high-final-gravity&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and see if the situation seems familiar. I had trouble with high FG due to poor fermentability of the malt extract I was using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T17:40:04.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12881" CreationDate="2014-09-11T18:28:54.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's always going to be some unfermentable sugars. If you're mashing, you can try to control that by doing a long mash at low temperature, but if you're using extract, you're probably stuck at a good middle-of-the-road mash, which is going to leave your high gravity beer very sweet at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8180" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T18:28:54.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12717" CreationDate="2014-09-11T18:39:12.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my 5 gallon BIAB batches, I just heat 2 gallons of water to 170* or so (in my old extract 5 gallon kettle), tie up my brewbag with a rubberband, place in the ale pail I'm going to use for fermentation, pour heated sparge water over it, teabag it a bit (heh), then dump into the boil kettle after about 10-15 minutes, which I usually start bringing to a boil during the sparge.  I've achieved over 90% mash efficiency on mid-gravity beers with this method.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T18:39:12.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-11T20:18:21.960" Score="0" ViewCount="910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made a 5 gallon All Grain Porter and added 13oz of Choc. PB2 at the last 10 minutes of the boil.  Though the flavors were there it was extremely light and would like to get more of a PB taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be smarter to add it as a whirlpool or perhaps as a vodka extract in the secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T17:51:40.693" Title="PB2 PORTER - BETTER TASTE?" Tags="|all-grain|porter|chocolate|flavoring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12897" CreationDate="2014-09-11T23:23:58.580" Score="3" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;5 gal keg ball lock. In a keezer at 35 deg. 30psi for three days then set it down to 13-14 psi for two days I have an 8ft line. Beer is dispensing great taste awesome but there is little to no carbonation. I should be getting a CO2 vol of 2.6. Anyone have any ideas what going on? And I did a leak check I don't have any and the CO2 tank is new first time filled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8172" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T14:20:23.840" Title="Keg not carbonating." Tags="|carbonation|kegging|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12891" CreationDate="2014-09-12T07:23:31.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast absorb a lot of those extra tastes from stuff you add to the kettle. If you want to get the maximum taste of a spice or alike, add it as a tincture at bottling time. And even then it may fade over a few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw make sure to add extra carapils or flakes to the mash: oils in chocolate may render the poor head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T07:23:31.220" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12881" CreationDate="2014-09-12T07:35:43.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take it was an extract brew, not AG, so there won't be much of non-fermentables (aka starch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was done wrong? Too big OG. Probably no starter. Probably poor wort aeration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is wrong now? The op expects the result too soon. I'd normally expect e.g. a beer of OG 1.090 to sit in the fermenter for 2-3 months (with proper aeration and starter!). Gravity drop is not linear function of time, it's more like 80/20 rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be done to save it now? I'd say, some dilution and krausening. Make a big amount (say, 4 l) of wort with OG 1.030, add yeast, and when fermentation there peaks in activity (I'd say, on the 3rd day), pour it into the big beer. Don't be afraid to oxidize it, the yeast will clean up after you. Leave it for a month or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T07:35:43.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12896" CreationDate="2014-09-12T13:32:58.730" Score="3" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to optimize my efficiency, and I was wondering is the speed at which I collect my wort has an incidence on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I would say that I collect 1 liter of wort each 30-45 seconds. I get between 65% and 70% efficiency. I am using a 10 gallons mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is that too fast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will lowering the flow increase my efficiency?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3895" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T14:18:25.397" Title="Speed to collect wort from the mash tun for maximum efficiency" Tags="|beer|mash|wort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12895" CreationDate="2014-09-12T14:18:25.397" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are batch sparging the rate has minimal impact of efficiency.&#xA;If you are fly sparging in most certainly can have an effect, slower is usually better.  Finding the balance between a speedy enough brew session and decent efficiency is a personal choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shooting for 75% is probably fine and some report getting better beer without pushing into the 80+% range.  Slowing down your sparge just a little bit more would probably get you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last point. If you beer tastes great there might really be no need to change your efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T14:18:25.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12892" CreationDate="2014-09-12T14:20:23.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might just need more time.  I usually let mine go for 7-10 days total before.&#xA;5 days seems a little short to me even with your 30PSI upfront charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T14:20:23.840" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-12T20:26:21.367" Score="2" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on brewing a double batch of &quot;OktoberFAST&quot; this weekend.&#xA;I've used a few online brewing calculators and they seem to be giving me the wrong answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always read that if more then 50% of your grain is Pilsner malt you should boil for 90 minutes. Normally every hour of boiling you lose a gallon of water. So if you boil your wort for 90 minutes you'll lose 1.5 gallons of water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I'm planning on making a 12 gallon batch. My pre-boil volume should be 13.5 gallons. The online calculator I always use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew365&lt;/a&gt; keeps one telling me I need 15 Gallons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recipe:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;11 # Pilsner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 # Dark Munich&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 # Vienna&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 # Caramunich&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about mashing @ 157.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the MAX amount of grain a 10 gallon cooler can hold is 24 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone help me calculate my Mash/Sparge water for a Single Infusion Batch Sparge? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8206" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T16:24:47.117" Title="Mash &amp; Sparge Calculation" Tags="|calculations|sparge|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-12T21:23:44.003" Score="8" ViewCount="2041" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I look at various carbonation tools, I noticed that the amount of bottling sugar was MUCH reduced when naturally carbonating in a keg:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFVMu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Carbonation tool showing 2oz sugar for kegging and 4oz sugar for individual bottles&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem to me that a certain amount of sugar would provide a certain amount of CO2 dissolved in the beer.  Apparently something else is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would it take 1/2 as much sugar to create the same amount of carbonation if the batch is naturally carbonated in a keg versus bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T20:33:29.367" Title="Why is less bottling sugar required when naturally carbonating in a keg versus bottles?" Tags="|carbonation|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-13T02:36:53.770" Score="1" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was kindly given a Mr. Beer Kit recently. The gifter knew I brewed. I made it per the instructions (except I added honey in the wort to up the gravity a bit). It fermented a bit warm, and it came out with what was a very notable green apple ester flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm actually pretty happy to have learned what that actually tastes like on a batch I don't care about. Unfortunately, Now I'm stuck with 7.5L of esterey beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any recipes that might take a vaguely unpleasant drink (I finished a glass, it wasn't as bad as a commercial macro brew) with strong green apple flavor and turn it into a tasty food item?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I'm going to try bread and a vinaigrette with a boiled down small bit of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1537" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T10:37:21.680" Title="green apple esters recipes" Tags="|recipe|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12900" CreationDate="2014-09-13T04:24:04.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd try krausening and aging. Make 1 l of wort of the same OG, pitch with yeast, keep at 18-20C, then on the 2-3rd day pour it to the main batch. Leave for a month there, observing the temperature conditions. Chances are high that the beer will turn drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, find a friend who is into distilling (makes moonshine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T04:24:04.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12903" CreationDate="2014-09-13T11:20:49.327" Score="2" ViewCount="1548" Body="&lt;p&gt;After speaking with a friend about home brew he told me a story about making prison hooch ( at home for a laugh ), strained through a sock etc. It's hilarious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when I talked about my plans to experiment with ingredients in my brews he told me that when he made his hooch he used a test strip or something to check if his beautiful brew in a bin bag had produced ethanol or the rather more deadly METHANOL!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was mortified at the prospect of poisoning my friends with experimental ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd like to ask;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a chance I can add ingredients to my brew and inadvertently produce methanol? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to worry about this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a bad ingredient that could do this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use test strips for such bad alcohols?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8117" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T17:58:32.580" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T17:58:32.580" Title="Ethanol / Methanol : Prison Hooch" Tags="|alcohol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12902" CreationDate="2014-09-13T15:22:19.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer made from barley malt will contain almost no methanol. &lt;a href=&quot;http://homedistiller.org/intro/methanol/methanol&quot;&gt;Fruits high in pectin will produce some methanol&lt;/a&gt;, but it's only a health concern if you're distilling. (That being said, I've had some nasty hangovers after drinking plum wine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of a test strip to determine the methanol quantity of a liquid. If such a thing existed, the home distilling community would be all over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T15:22:19.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12752" CreationDate="2014-09-13T16:36:32.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One example that generated a beer with a significant (but not over the top) coconut presence was as follows: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;16 ounces of shredded coconut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;650ml 190 proof grain alcohol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Five gallons of beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shredded coconut was crammed in a quart mason jar and covered with grain alcohol for one week in order to make a tincture.  The tincture was added to the fermeter, along with the shredded coconut (inside a nylon bag).  After one additional week, the beer was bottled.  A warning for this coconut tincture technique: there was &quot;coconut butter&quot; floating in the fermeter and clinging to the nylon bag.  Probably due to the fat content, there was little head retention even though the beer was well carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T16:36:32.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12906" CreationDate="2014-09-14T12:54:01.187" Score="1" ViewCount="2237" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is the beer i made&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ingredients:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;17 litres spring water&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1 can of coopers Australian pale ale i think it was 1.7 kg normal size&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;500 grams malt extract &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;coopers brew enhancer 1 which is 250 grams maltose and 250 grams dextrose mixed&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;25 grams Amarillo hops and 6 grams goldings hops&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;dry 97 american west coast yeast 11 grams&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;cooper DIY yeast 7 grams&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hope its not to much yeast!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;steps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;heated 3 litres off spring water&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;tipped into fermenter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;dissolved 1 can of coopers australian pale ale&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;meanwhile boil 2.5 litres of spring water for hops.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;add 3 litres heated water to fermenter and disolved in he malt extract 500grams and coopers (brew enhancer 1 a 50/50 maltose dextrose mix 500grams&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;stired thoroughly until all parts were broken&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;add 25g Amarillo hops and 6g golding hops to step fours boiling water &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;boiled hops for four minutes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;strained hop water into fermenter and mixed through&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;filled fermenter the 17 litre mark with spring water&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;allowed beer to get to 26 degrees added 11 grams of dry 97 american west coast yeast and 7 grams DIY coopers brewing yeast&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The O.G. was 1072. How low does everyone think the F.G. will be? Did I over do it with the yeast by putting in two packets of the stuff&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8195" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-09-14T19:21:46.497" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T19:21:46.497" Title="did i put too much yeast in?" Tags="|beer|yeast|first-time-brewer|brewing|taste|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12905" CreationDate="2014-09-14T16:01:46.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You did no harm by adding all that yeast, but it very likely was unnecessary.  The 11 gram yeast pack by itself would have been sufficient.  The 7 gram would not.  It's pretty hard to predict FG accurately unless you've made a recipe several times.  If I was to shoot in the dark, I'd guess you'll finish in the mid 20s.  But that's only a guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T16:01:46.140" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-14T20:27:12.203" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on making a pumpkin ale out of a brown ale mini-mash recipe.  I'd also like to get a hint of caramel in there so I was thinking about adding some sort of unrefined sugar.  Does anyone have a recommendation on what type would work best?  I'm leaning towards turbinado but would love suggestions.  Perhaps the biggest question is how much I should use.  I want to be able to taste it, but not dry it out.  How do I figure out the right amount?  Is there anything I should do to adjust the base recipe or just not worry about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8209" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T20:49:08.960" Title="Adding sugar to a brown pumpkin ale" Tags="|sugar|brown|pumpkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12899" CreationDate="2014-09-14T20:33:29.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect it has to do with the ratio of liquid volume to gas (head) volume. When bottling each bottle has a certain amount of headspace, while when kegging the amount of headspace relative to the liquid vloume is much smaller since there is only one vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I am not talking about the speed of carbonation, just the final result (the equilibrium):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/issue/item/56-3-ways-to-carbonate-your-keg-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/stories/issue/item/56-3-ways-to-carbonate-your-keg-techniques&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;The rate of carbonation, or the time it takes for beer and headspace pressure to equilibrate, depends on three primary factors: (1) the ratio of gas surface to beer volume, (2) the difference in carbon-dioxide concentration between the gas and beer phase and (3) time. The topic of gas diffusion can be made very complicated by mathematicians and engineers, but the basic concepts are fairly simple.&#xA;...&#xA;Rate is by definition dependent on time. A system will equilibrate given enough time. In relation to carbonation, beer will eventually equilibrate with headspace pressure. Fortunately for homebrewers, batch size is small enough for time to be on our sides.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the end result of carbonation in the liquid will find an equilibrium dependent on the final headspace pressure - the higher the headspace pressure, the higher the carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in the link above, one way is to ensure the pressure by fixing it using a carbon dioxide source. The only variable left is the time necessary to achieve equilibrium (until then the carbonation will climb with time until stopping at equilibrium).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using sugar, like bottle priming, the headspace pressure is built via fermentation. The ideal gas law states that the number of gas molecules necessary for a given temperature is proportional to the pressure and to the volume:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P*V = n*R*T&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only source of the molecules (n) is the fermentation - determined by the amount of sugar provided for fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All else being equal (temperature and pressure required for target carbonation) the volume determines the amount of sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the headspace volume in a keg is smaller that that of all the bottles for a brew, more sugar is needed for bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the specifics of the conditioning will vary depending on the actual liquid volume to headspace volume ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8113" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T20:33:29.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-15T19:37:00.360" Score="1" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I racked to secondary, I had checked the gravity a few days apart to make sure fermentation had completed. After racking to secondary, I waited a few days to let it settle out. The water in the airlock had evened out, so I figured I would be ok to dry hop. Around 3-4 days after dry-hopping, the airlock is going crazy. It bubbles about every second or two. I have been told that I am ok to bottle as planned, but I am concerned that this could lead to bottle bombs. I have had this issue before, and it was also a black ipa. Should I try cold crashing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8215" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T02:14:50.433" Title="lots of gas coming from secondary" Tags="|dry-hop|co2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12909" CreationDate="2014-09-15T20:58:11.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not necessarily fermentation causing the bubbles.  Temp changes or other things can cause dissolved CO2 to come out if solution.  That's almost certainly what you're seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T20:58:11.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12909" CreationDate="2014-09-16T02:14:50.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dry hop all my beers after a few weeks of primary fermentation (sometimes even in the primary fermenter without using a secondary) and every time I will get airlock activity for a few days after. For me its normally the first day after will go crazy but can last awhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer always tastes great so I wouldn't worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T02:14:50.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12907" CreationDate="2014-09-16T15:03:15.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In combination with crystal 60 I have found a little molasses goes pretty far at getting a more toffee like presence in browns and porters.  For 5 gallons I'd say 1/3rd to 1/2 cup.  But your palate is different than mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a different perspective, I make a sweet potato beer that uses a heavy hand of Special B to create that raisin like sweetness.  Just another thing to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T15:03:15.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12907" CreationDate="2014-09-16T20:49:08.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm seconding @brewchez on use of Special B for toffee flavour. Melanoiden malt would also be handy. Another thing to try is first runnings caramelisation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T20:49:08.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-16T21:45:45.447" Score="1" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner when it comes to brewing but have two batches of lambic beer coming up. My question is if they have to be aged in a glass carboy or if they can be poured straight into a bottle along with the priming sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best Regards And thanks for the answers in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8220" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T05:30:06.253" Title="Aging lambic beer" Tags="|aging|belgian|lambics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12914" CreationDate="2014-09-17T05:30:06.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without much detail regarding your recipes, your answer is going to be a bit shallow and lacking in detail.  Regardless, here goes nothing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off: Glass or plastic makes no difference in today's home brewing world as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.better-bottle.com/pdf/ClosuresOxygenPassageStudy.pdf&quot;&gt;studies have shown&lt;/a&gt; plastic carboy's oxygen permeability is a non-issue compared to glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, most Lambics' yeast contains wild Brettanomyces yeast, which is notorious for requiring longer fermentation schedules due to its prolonged fermentability, especially if blended with traditional Saccharomyces yeast.  It can ferment sugars that regular ale/lager strains cannot, so long as it can feed off oxygen to do so.  If you plan on fermenting a Lambic, plan on at least 12 months of maturation before going to bottle.  Any shorter and explosive bottles are a real possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth noting, since wild yeast and bacteria often times have a mind of their own, it is not uncommon for Lambic brewers to blend several batches to achieve a similar taste between their bottles.  You may consider after a year or two's time, when the beer matures, to blend your two (or more) batches together to find a perfect harmonious blend, then use that ratio to bottle with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested, here's a podcast from the folks at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrsUcomfiMk&quot;&gt;BeerSmith and Michael Tonsmeire&lt;/a&gt; regarding sour/wild fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T05:30:06.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12919" CreationDate="2014-09-17T09:48:48.927" Score="0" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some resources, it is recommended to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first ferment low-gravity must made with fruit and water (with small additions of sugar if there is very little sugar in the fruit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strain to carboy &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add sugar dissolved in water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ferment, rack, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second option, seen in other resources, is to combine 1. and 3. above, adding all the sugar in the must at the very beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is today recognized as the best procedure, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T16:23:12.700" Title="Different fermentation procedures for fruit wine" Tags="|fermentation|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-17T12:46:46.570" Score="0" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a can of this, but want to do something different with it and have it ready for the holidays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was pumpkin, but I couldn't figure out from reading how or when to put it in; and most people found it didn't change flavor at all, it's about the spices you add...again, not sure how much or when.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also read of people adding lactose and making a cream stout. Or oatmeal stout. Etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately searching I just find full on recipes, but nothing hacking a kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really like some help and advice on what I can do, to &quot;jazz this up&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3917" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T17:05:39.813" Title="Modifying Mountmellick's Irish Stout" Tags="|stout|kits|spices|holiday|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-10-27T09:56:03.337" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12917" CreationDate="2014-09-17T16:23:12.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The theory is that by making several sugar additions mid-fermentation instead of front-loading all of the sugar is that it will not shock/stress the yeast outright in the beginning by the high amount of sugar, and will allow the yeast to re-produce in a more hospitable environment, since alcohol (in high amounts) is toxic to yeast.  With that in mind, you also don't want to skimp on the must though and do too low of a gravity, as the must will contain nutrients (albeit low amounts in comparison to wort in beer).  I cannot speak to the positive/negative effects of this in fruit wine through experience, but I have done this with high-gravity ales to great success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only critique I can provide in your steps is (assuming a 5-batch) to dissolve 0.5 - 1 teaspoon of yeast nutrient along with your sugar addition before adding, depending on the size of the sugar addition.  Staggered nutrient additions provide a nutrient-deficient fruit must with the proper nutrients needed to aid in a clean/quick fermentation and maturation. You can make these additions once the high krausen begins to die down so that you aren't concerned with blow-off or making a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T16:23:12.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12918" CreationDate="2014-09-17T17:05:39.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice to you is just to experiment and have fun with it. For spices, add them to the primary or late in the boil along with your finishing hops. If you want a &quot;pumpkin spice&quot; ale, check the spices in your favorite pie recipe and note the proportions of spice used. For your largest-dose spice, don't use more than 1 tbl per 5 gallons (less is safer, but then you might not get much flavor), and add the others in proportion to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also add: be very careful with clove. A little goes a very long way. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8180" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T17:05:39.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-18T13:05:39.223" Score="2" ViewCount="1685" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now, when brewing, I have one step that is never the same : the boil. Actually, the boil phase is going alright, my problem is with the evaporation rate of my wort. I have a few questions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the &quot;standard&quot; boil rate? Beersmith gives me 12% per hour by default. This is based on a 23 liters batch I think. That would mean an evaporation of 2.73 liters per hour, but normally I lose at least twice that amount.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if I make a 40 liters batch? will evaporation be 12%, or the same liters/hour? (In this case it would mean an evaporation rate of 6.8%)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the advantages of a higher evaporation rate ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the advantages of a lower evaporation rate ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is my evaporation rate way too high at 6 liters / hour?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one big question here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you standardize your evaporation rate? I never evaporate the same amount, but I would like that part becoming a constant, not a variable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a propane outside burner. Should I get something to regularize the psi of the propane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3895" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T19:38:57.540" Title="Evaporation rate" Tags="|beer|boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12922" CreationDate="2014-09-18T15:19:42.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, expressing evaporation rate as a % is completely the worng way to do it.  Boil is a constant gal./hr. and does not change due to batch size.  You don't boil off twice as much for a 10 gal. batch as a 5 gal. batch.  6 liters/hr. is about what my boil off is using a converted keg kettle and a propane burner.  I try to set the flame to the same level every time and I get a pretty consistent rate.  There are theoretical downsides to too high or low a rate, but the reality is that consistency is much more important than amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T15:19:42.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23825" CreationDate="2014-09-18T15:54:02.083" Score="12" ViewCount="3988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend who studies some molecular aspects of probiotic yeasts, some wild ones and also the widespread in medications &lt;em&gt;Saccharomyces boulardii&lt;/em&gt; (found in Florastor®, Floratil®, and other commercial names).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He ask me if there is any chance on brewing beer with this, and I've &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/saccharomyces-boulardii-284131/&quot;&gt;searched&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/1719-pharmacy-brewing-last-call&quot;&gt;the net&lt;/a&gt;, and find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/xhy17/anyone_used_s_boullardi_aka_omg_probiotic_yeast/&quot;&gt;some&lt;/a&gt; information, but I think its good to know if someone here on this house have tried this before.&#xA;Available information tells about some banana esters, or 'wheat yeast' profile, but precise info about attenuation, floculation and other consistent feedback is lacking. If no one can help, I will try this in some batch in the future and come back to tell. Thanks in advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2019-12-16T15:18:57.973" Title="Brewing with Saccharomyces boulardii" Tags="|yeast|brewing|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12950" CreationDate="2014-09-18T16:20:30.867" Score="1" ViewCount="1517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made several batches of meads, using different yeasts, with the same recipe.  I then picked the yeast that made the best mead (IMO) and made some fruit meads.  I followed the same recipe, but added a jar of fresh fruit preserve to each batch (one raspberry, one blackberry).  These are one-gallon batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The carboys ended up pretty full, and I couldn't add the whole yeast mixture.  This worried me, as I wasn't sure if I would get enough fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my carboys keep popping the lids on the airlocks, and fermentation has been frighteningly fast.  I have poured out a small amount of each batch to make some more airspace in the bottles, and it just filled up with foam again.  I have fruity foam erupting out through the airlocks, more so in one batch than the other, and I keep removing them to clean and replace.  It's only 3 days into what usually is a 2-week fermentation process, and they have finally slowed down (to a stop, I think, which doesn't seem right), and I'm not sure if something went horribly wrong, or if this is normal for a fruit mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, I have mold on the top of the airlock of one of the batches now.  (Horrible green-black stuff) where it is exposed to air.  This doesn't seem to have penetrated the carboy though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this batch savable?  Is this normal for fruity meads?  Have I done something wrong, and if so, can I fix it at this point?  Has fermentation stalled, or actually finished?  And will the speed of that fermentation ruin my mead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3388" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T14:58:47.270" Title="Fruit mead - VERY vigorous fermentation" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-18T17:53:16.293" Score="1" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reading a recipe for a Sanctification clone, which is one of Russian Rivers Blonde Sour Ales. The recipe for the yeast read as such&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brettanomyces bruxellensis culture, Wyeast 3112 or White Labs WLP650 (3 qt./ starter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brettanomyces lambicus culture Wyeast 3526 or White Labs WLP653 (1 qt/ starter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lactobasillus delbrueckii culture, Wyeast 4335 bacteria (3 oz/ starter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it instructs to &quot;pitch bottom half&quot; of yeast starters. Ferment starting at 72 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what any of this means? If I'm only pitching the bottom half, then how much exactly is &quot;the bottom half&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8160" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T17:57:37.877" Title="Can you help me read this complex Yeast recipe? (Sour Beer help)" Tags="|beer|yeast|brewing|sour|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12927" CreationDate="2014-09-18T17:57:37.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brett has very low flocculation, so unlike a Sacc. starter, where you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; only pitch the concentrated sediment of flocculated yeast, with Brett you'll need to pitch the &quot;bottom half&quot; of the starter volume to make sure you get most of the yeast. While you could just pitch the whole volume, since brett needs larger, lager-sized starters, you want to decant at least &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of the starter beer so as not to affect the overall batch flavor- and volume-wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least, that's my edumacated guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T17:57:37.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12922" CreationDate="2014-09-18T21:06:37.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @Denny that &lt;em&gt;stating&lt;/em&gt; evaporation as a fixed percent in your assumptions is somewhat meaningless for homebrewing because boiloff is constant based primarily on your kettle geometry and BTUs of heat. In other words, the &lt;em&gt;percent&lt;/em&gt; being evaporated constantly goes up as the remaining volume shrinks (with 100% evaporation when the last drop is evaporating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also agree that &quot;there are theoretical downsides to too high or low a rate, but the reality is that consistency is much more important than amount.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, the biggest downside to too high of a boiloff rate is waste of energy. Brewing water is not necessarily free either because you may have bought RO water or spent time dechlorinating, collecting, or adjusting your water. Commercial brewers shoot for an evaporation rate of 6-8% in the first hour, and that is sufficient to release any DMS and SMM. Because a boil does not get hotter the more vigorous it is, and hop alpha acids will isomerize at any boil, we should shoot for the gentlest boil that we can. So while using percent evaporation may not make sense for homebrewers, we can learn something from commercial brewers about not having an excessive boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should calibrate your kettle with 1/2 gallon or quarter gallon graduations (either etched on kettle or marked on an unvarnished/unpainted wooden dowel you can immerse in the wort). Then calculate your boiloff rate with those graduations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can standardize your evaporation rate by doing the same thing every time. Same amount of flame, same kettle, same burner, and same vigor of boil. Then check it at intervals to see if you are spot-on. Boiloff is constant (linear). Even if you do this, you may get different rates -- my rate in Winter is higher than in Summer due to the extremely low humidity here in Winter, and high humidity in Summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-09-20T19:38:57.540" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T19:38:57.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12931" CreationDate="2014-09-18T22:02:17.990" Score="1" ViewCount="1752" Body="&lt;p&gt;will hurt the beer if I swirl my carboy to force the krausen to drop? the krausen has been sitting there for a few weeks now and I want to keg in one week but if the krausen is still there I don't want it in my keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8172" LastActivityDate="2016-12-11T18:34:48.767" Title="force krausen to drop?" Tags="|primary-fermentation|krausen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12930" CreationDate="2014-09-19T12:06:58.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to know if its done fermenting.  Check with a hydrometer.  You should taste the beer too.  If it isn't done fermenting there may be several undesirable flavors present (unfermented sugar, diacetyl, acetaldehyde, sulfur to name a couple)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible depending on the yeast that the krausen just didn't drop and its done.  I wouldn't try to stir it in, just rack from under it to your keg.  All in all this is likely not the case and you'll have really yeasty underfermented beer in the keg.  Which won't taste the best and may even create other gastro-intestinal &quot;issues&quot; later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the beer is done when IT says its done.  You might hurry it along a bit more by warming it up if its not done. If it is done start chilling it down and the krausen should begin to fall on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T12:06:58.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12933" CreationDate="2014-09-19T12:16:26.313" Score="2" ViewCount="511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Oktoberfest beer in Primary right now based on a kit from my LHBS.  It's an average ABV ~5.5 and is fermented on California Lager Yeast and I'm controlling fermentation at ~62F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this benefit from secondary and if so, any thoughts on how long?  Lastly, as I still bottle condition, any differences due to lager yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="3453" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T17:43:29.453" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T17:43:29.453" Title="When should I secondary this beer" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|lager|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12932" CreationDate="2014-09-19T12:31:57.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably no need for a secondary vessel step with this.  Depending on your fermentation temps up to this point you may not need to diacetyl rest this beer.  California Lager yeast is generally fermented higher than standard lagers so the yeast may have cleaned that up by the time its done. I'd taste a sample of it to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to truly lager this one, I'd say transfer to a secondary and start chilling it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However with Cali Lager my experience has been that if you let it go at 60-65 for three weeks, check the gravity and flavor; once its done fermenting you can rack and bottle as normal.  Once carbonated you can store the bottles in the fridge and lager that way.  Just don't lager then first or the bottles won't carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T12:31:57.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-19T18:17:14.060" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once, initial and secondary fermentation are complete, how long should the barrel be left to clear and mature? I understand that with a bottom tap barrel you have to wait for the entire, barrel to clear, but my understanding is that with the top tap barrel you always take from the top layer and so is the time before beginning to consume reduced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8227" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T11:42:09.593" Title="How long to mature and clear with Top Tap Barrel?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-19T19:22:46.100" Score="0" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some guys recommend to increase the temperature once the fermentation finished, and so, &quot;start&quot; the maturation in a higher temperature. Others say the inverse, to reduce the temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already tried the 2 techniques, but changing only among 2C to 4C degrees (35F to 37F), and I cannot get a noticeable difference between than.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the care we need to have with the temperature when the maturation starts (FG stabilizes) ? Keep it, increase it, or reduce it ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT - Defining &quot;maturation&quot;:&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;Maturation, secondary fermentation, conditioning, aging, in English some people use one, others use another. But I'm referring to the phase just after SG doesn't change anymore (about 3-4 days in Ales) and the yeasts start to eat 'undesired compounds', in Portuguese its's called solely &quot;maturation&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2014-09-20T18:56:14.790" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T18:56:14.790" Title="Maturation temperature (when SG stabilizes)" Tags="|fermentation|conditioning|maturation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12938" CreationDate="2014-09-20T01:59:54.043" Score="0" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR : My beer has an acetaminophen aftertaste, what could this be ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed an espresso oatmeal Stout 4 months ago. It had a hard time carbonating and has an acrid/bitter (burnt? too much dark malt?) aftertaste. It mellowed a bit with time. To me, this aftertaste now resembles acetaminophen (without the coating, just the white stuff, which is pretty bitter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/espresso-oatmeal-stout-3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/espresso-oatmeal-stout-3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3972" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T15:04:01.640" Title="Stout has acetaminophen (tylenol) aftertaste" Tags="|off-flavor|stout|aftertaste|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12937" CreationDate="2014-09-20T15:04:01.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never tasted acetaminophen, but the 130g of black malt is probably your culprit. I made a stout with a similar amount, and the resulting beer was acrid and unpleasant. Aging mellowed it a bit, but it never turned into what I'd call a pleasant beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, the only roasted malts I use in my stouts are roasted barley, and a small amount of chocolate. Black malt is no longer welcome in my brewery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T15:04:01.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12944" CreationDate="2014-09-20T15:33:03.820" Score="4" ViewCount="2033" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only used 'natural' lactobacillus, that is, inoculated wort with raw grains to achieve a very tart sour. In my last experiment, I soured a mash over a few days and the gravity had dropped from 1.042 to 1.008 without ever having added yeast. I ended up just adding yeast, since I was hoping to retain some of the alcohol content (rather than boiling first to stop the lactic acid production). In the end it was more of a lacto-lemonade, as it had a great sour taste, but little to no alcohol (1.008 -&gt; 1.004, plus whatever was there from the sour). I couldn't think of any other way to &quot;test&quot;, so I just downed two pints, but to no effect :-) In doing some reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactobacillus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, I discovered some lactobacillus actually does create alcohol, but I suspect this is not true of the brewers' type, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=148&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast&lt;/a&gt; doesn't mention any attenuation. However, White Labs, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp677-lactobacillus-delbrueckii-bacteria&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp672-lactobacillus-brevis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; do mention attenuation, so perhaps the white labs strains are heterofermentative? Or perhaps they are simply referring to the apparent attenuation of the sugars (as the lacto definitely eats through them)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T11:45:51.353" Title="Is brewers' Lactobacillus heterofermentative or homofermentative?" Tags="|sour|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12935" CreationDate="2014-09-20T15:44:23.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this a lager? It sounds like you are describing a cold crash. Ageing ales is usually done at ambient temp, although they may benefit from ageing in a keg at serving temps. Lagers age at lager temps (usually 10F/5.5C degrees F cooler than fermentation). A typical lager schedule might be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ferment at 50-55F, 2 weeks&#xA;rest at 65F, 2 days&#xA;lager at 45F 2 months&#xA;lager at 35F for 2 months (Is this what you are calling maturation??)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T15:44:23.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12935" CreationDate="2014-09-20T15:58:46.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're confusing two different things.  the reason to raise the temp toward the end of fermentation is to make sure the yeast is active enough to finish the fermentation.  That's commonly done with both ales and lagers.  as an example, I ferment most ales around 63F, but after 5-7 days at that temp I raise it to make sure fermentation is done.  after that, I crash the temp down to around 35F to begin cold conditioning the beer.  Your term &quot;maturation&quot; is kind of hazy, but I think you;re referring to this cold conditioning phase.  For long term aging, a cooler temp is always preferred to reduce the effects of staling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T15:58:46.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15569" CreationDate="2014-09-21T17:44:27.007" Score="4" ViewCount="946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an used stainless steel really large pot (&gt;90 liters) that was used for cooking, but had some kind of water stains inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a (stupid) attempt to clean it, I had it sand blasted, which completely removed that nice, reflective surface that the stainless steel have, leaving an opaque darkish gray surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this fixable somehow, maybe by polishing or chemical treatment? If its not, is it still safe to use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;. This is what it looks like now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SEjVB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8038" LastEditorUserId="8038" LastEditDate="2014-09-22T19:49:39.757" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T19:30:08.673" Title="Cleaning stainless steel" Tags="|equipment|stainless|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12942" CreationDate="2014-09-21T19:24:46.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you've ruined it.  Sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T19:24:46.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12939" CreationDate="2014-09-22T04:02:47.307" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know if there are other species used in homebrew, actually I've never gone that way before, but the two species that you cited above, &lt;em&gt;Lactobacillus delbruekii&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Lactobacillus brevis&lt;/em&gt; are homofermentative and heterofermentative respectively according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://textbookofbacteriology.net/lactics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this text&lt;/a&gt; of Todar's Online Textbook of Bacteriology (page 3):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lactobacillus&lt;/em&gt; is very heterogeneous genus, encompassing species with a large variety of phenotypic, biochemical, and physiological properties.&#xA;  Most species of lactobacilli are homofermentative, but some are heterofermentative. The genus has been divided into three major subgroups and over 70 species are recognized. Group I lactobacilli are obligately homofermentative and produce lactic acid as a major end product (&gt;85%) from glucose. They are represented by &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;L. delbrueckii&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;em&gt;L. acidophilus&lt;/em&gt;. They grow at 45oC but not at 15oC. Group II, also homofermentative, grow at 15oC and show variable growth at 45oC. Represented by &lt;em&gt;L. casei&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;L. plantarum&lt;/em&gt;, they can produce more oxidized fermentations (e.g. acetate) if O2 is present. Group III lactobacilli are heterofermentative. They produce lactic acid from glucose, along with CO2 and ethanol. Aldolase is absent and phosphoketolase is present. Representative species include &lt;em&gt;L. fermentum&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;L. brevis&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;em&gt;L. keferi&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Michael Tonsmeire (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2012/06/100-lactobacillus-berliner-weisse.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Mad Fermentionist&lt;/a&gt;) in an article about a batch of a 100% Lactobacillus Berliner Weisse, says that Wyeast 5335 &quot;is only capable of fermenting about 10-12% of the carbohydrates in a standard wort, not nearly enough attenuation for something resembling beer&quot;, and that White Labs WLP677 (&lt;em&gt;L. delbrueckii&lt;/em&gt;) &quot;produces both alcohol and carbon-dioxide, so the result should be similar to a beer fermented with yeast&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brew Your Own magazine, in an article about &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/item/889-how-to-make-a-sour-mash-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sour mash&lt;/a&gt;, says that &quot;&lt;em&gt;L. delbruckii&lt;/em&gt; is homofermentative, thermophilic and anaerobic. Homofermentative means that L. delbruckii produces only a single product — lactic acid — when they ferment.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the first and last texts, it seems that &lt;em&gt;L. delbrueckii&lt;/em&gt; would not be able to produce alcohol while Tonsmeire suggests that is possible. Maybe its just a 'strain number' problem. Read his article, it has a ton of comments that may help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T11:45:51.353" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T11:45:51.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-22T15:53:59.410" Score="4" ViewCount="3918" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed this &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerbrew.com/downloads/Recipes/Oktoberfest.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ale Oktoberfest&lt;/a&gt; beer and I thought everything went perfectly, but the bottles are flat (have tried 4 of them)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 weeks in the primary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 week in secondary (5 gal carboy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FG of 1.012&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Priming solution: boiled &amp;amp; cooled solution of 5 oz. table sugar, mixed well into bottling bucket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottles have sat for 3 weeks.  They started out at over 70 but lately it has been cooler and they have been around 65 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked my homebrew shop and they said the problem is likely that I used table sugar instead of corn sugar.  They said that disaccharides are harder to break down than straight glucose and maybe the yeast just couldn't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, looking online it seems lots of people use table sugar.  This is my second batch, for my first batch I also used table sugar and it had perfect carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are all the possible problems that I can imagine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much yeast dropped out after secondary fermentation, so not enough was left in suspension to carbonate? (counterpoint: 3 weeks is not very long, if anything it's on the shorter side)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe they indeed had trouble with the disaccharide sugar (or maybe combination of 1 and 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During my first batch I used vegan sugar from Whole Foods, my second batch I used Domino sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I pitched the yeast a little warm (80-85 degrees).  But the bottles have mostly been conditioning around 65.  Maybe fermentation encouraged the growth of more yeast that preferred the warmer temp, and they don't like the cooler bottling temp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring bottles up to 70 degrees, wait longer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour everything into bottling bucket, add CBC yeast and 5 oz. corn sugar solution, rebottle.  (Problem with this: if the initial priming sugar was never fermented, would this create bottle bombs once healthy yeast is re-introduced?  Would the priming sugar cause a measurable change in gravity, so that I could measure whether it fermented?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other advice or thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few more data points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried more bottles: some have a tiny amount of fizz, others practically flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Immediately after bottling, 4 bottles went down to Virginia.  When they were opened, they were all carbonated, with a head even.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I performed the following experiment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I opened two 22 oz. bottles and added 1/4 tsp CBC yeast rehydrated in 1 1/2 tsp water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To one of these bottles I also added a solution of 3/4 tsp corn sugar &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One week later, both were carbonated.  The one with sugar more than the other, and &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; a tad overcarbonated but not by much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to add the same amount of yeast and 1/2 tsp corn sugar to the remaining bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you everyone for your help and suggestions.  I'm not sure if there is one answer I can accept but I will read through them again and see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update #2&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here I was ready to add a yeast / sugar solution to each bottle.  It has now been 7 weeks in the bottle and I last tried one maybe 2 weeks ago and was still pretty much flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opened 7 bottles to re-yeast, all of them were carbonated. SMH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8140" LastEditorUserId="8140" LastEditDate="2014-10-18T20:32:34.663" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T20:32:34.663" Title="Flat beer with table sugar?" Tags="|carbonation|ale|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12945" CreationDate="2014-09-22T16:14:57.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably just too cool. I had lots of problems with carbonation when I left my bottles in my 65-70 degree basement. In fact, I had one batch where the bottles on the concrete floor did not carbonate but the ones sitting on top of those, off the floor, did carbonate. Eventually, I started putting them in the laundry room on a shelf above the dryer, where it's in the mid-eighties, and everything carbonated fine after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T16:14:57.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12945" CreationDate="2014-09-22T16:35:43.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you saw a beer head during the 2nd fermentation, you likely just let the beer get too cold.  Ales tend to like 70F+ bottle fermenting conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tell if your beer's yeast has died by the foam created when mixing in sugar.  The reaction will always create &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethanol_fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;alcohol and CO2&lt;/a&gt;.  The reaction creates bubbles, which make the foam during fermentation.  No bubbles = no yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt using table sugar is the problem.  I have no idea why home-brew shops tend to universally disdain table sugar (except to up-sell you the expensive fermenting sugar).  I have always used table sugar bought from Wal-mart and never experienced any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, you can either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep the beers in a slightly warmer place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make Lagers, which ferment a little colder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your homebrew store will sell carbonation pills you can add to your bottles, but you'll have to open and reseal each of them to do this, your mileage may (and likely will) vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edits to clarify questions about fermenation process, and better explain what to expect&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8236" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T17:01:14.707" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12945" CreationDate="2014-09-22T17:49:10.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be that your beer is quite strong (you didn't mention the OG), and the yeast has bowed out. (what yeast did you use?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the current reading on the brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd open up a couple of bottles, add a few crumbs of dehydrated yeast with a high alcohol tolerance (at this stage, using champagne yeast is quite ok, try it on a few bottles). Close it up again, put in a warm spot for a week, then cool it in the fridge for a day or two and open it to test. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not remove the beer from the bottles, it only oxidises the beer and introduces infections (plus extra work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also don't feed it more sugar unless you are sure it really needs it, exploding bottles are no fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, the only difference I can tell between cane sugar / beet sugar and brewing sugar is that cane or beet tastes most 'citrussi'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: (to keep Stackexchange ettiquette happy):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re: aerating, shaking the beer or water isn't all that effective, but if you get a fish tank air pump (with a little air filter, although I've used it w/o it and had no problems) and tie a weight to the 3mm tube that comes with it so it stays at the bottom, leaving this on over night starts the fermentation pretty quickly, probably because the wort gets moved around by the bubbles and the yeasts don't get stuck in areas they already munched empty in the initial time when the wort stays quite still.  And don't bother with a buying fancy aeration stone thingy, just the tube as is works wonders enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wassail!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8237" LastEditorUserId="8237" LastEditDate="2014-09-23T18:22:09.293" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T18:22:09.293" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12945" CreationDate="2014-09-22T17:53:48.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always leave them longer at the lower temperature, or bring them up to 70ish. Which Yeast did you use specifically? Did you re-pitch yeast during bottling or it was warm for the initial pitch? 80-85 is pretty warm for Ale Yeasts. Wouldn't kill it, but might give off some flavors that aren't wanted. Prior to bottling were you still getting bubbles coming through the airlock? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't do much homebrewing since brewing professionally for 5+ years in the San Diego Craft Brewing Industry. But I still have plenty of knowledge of brewing in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8238" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T17:53:48.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12925" CreationDate="2014-09-22T20:45:12.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the extra sugar content from the fruit led to a faster fermentation. Small changes in OG can have large effects on the fermentation, particularly if the temperature isn't controlled -- the faster fermentation leads to higher temperatures, leading to even faster fermentation, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, it's possible that the pectin from the fruit made the foam more stable, leading to the blow-off. In a carboy this, too can be a runaway process: once it's full enough that the foam extends towards the neck, the lower surface area means that it lasts longer, and builds up more. This is why I don't like doing primary fermentation in a carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be too worried about the mold. You can replace the airlock if you want, but make sure to carefully wipe the inside and outside of the neck with alcohol before placing the new bung -- you don't want to inadvertently force mold down into the carboy. If the mold is only on the tip, probably worth keeping the current airlock until you rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems likely that this mead will have a harsher taste from the high-temperature fermentation, but only time will tell. I wouldn't write it off yet, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7961" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T20:45:12.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12945" CreationDate="2014-09-22T21:52:49.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ehhhh, not having 50 points... Either way, I would HIGHLY recommend not opening up the bottles and adding anything, or taking anything else out. This is just asking for contamination or at least oxygenation. Warm the bottles up a bit should work. Or letting them sit longer works too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the yeast that is left in suspension when bottling is normally the strongest/most hyper yeasts from your brew. They should be fine with a little cooler temperatures, higher abv, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8238" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T21:52:49.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6595" CreationDate="2014-09-23T05:30:50.093" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about this $10 microscope with 1000x magnification using an iPhone 5? &lt;a href=&quot;http://availabletechnologies.pnnl.gov/technology.asp?id=393&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://availabletechnologies.pnnl.gov/technology.asp?id=393&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8241" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T05:30:50.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12771" CreationDate="2014-09-23T15:17:51.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the type of filtration system you use.  Some just remove particles, some remove all minerals and basically leave you with RO water.  I don't know which type you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T15:17:51.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12957" CreationDate="2014-09-23T22:03:02.857" Score="0" ViewCount="1324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a cream ale and just moved it into a new carboy for secondary fermentation.  While siphoning it over, I noticed that there's a lot of solid creamy substance still in the beer.  Maybe I did something wrong and that's not supposed to happen (not enough water in the original boil?), but what's done is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is that, if it's still present after my secondary fermentation is complete, how can I make sure to filter out all that nonsense before going to the bottling phase?  It seemed like a kind of buttery substance that clung to the auto-siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8211" LastEditorUserId="8211" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T20:21:30.800" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T20:21:30.800" Title="How can I filter out excess cream (trub) before bottling?" Tags="|beer|fermentation|bottling|secondary-fermentation|filtering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12999" CreationDate="2014-09-23T23:03:15.023" Score="0" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course I'm asking about the height. How to calculate the best height to install a bi-metal thermometer like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/products/dial-thermometer-3-face-6-probe.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dial Thermometer - MoreBeer&lt;/a&gt; ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, we can see it installed in the middle of wort, approximately. But if we mash several volumes, should we calculate the middle of the smallest one ? This wouldn't harm the thermal reading of the largest wort volume ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T17:34:14.750" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T11:28:12.147" Title="Best position to install a bi-metal thermometer" Tags="|temperature-control|kettle|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12954" CreationDate="2014-09-24T12:00:16.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you describe in your comments sounds like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trub_%28brewing%29&quot;&gt;trub&lt;/a&gt; (pronounced &quot;troob&quot;). It's mostly yeast, proteins, fats, and sometimes hop material. It's totally normal for that stuff to settle to the bottom of the vessel after fermentation is complete. You don't filter it; you just let it settle and then carefully siphon the beer off while picking up as little of the trub as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your description, I'm guessing you dumped everything from your kettle into your fermenter and, if you were short of five gallons, topped up to the five gallon mark. (It seems like most people start this way; I know I did.) You can limit the amount of trub in the fermenter by leaving most of it in the kettle after the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Losses are part of brewing. You'll always lose some beer to trub. People account for those losses by targeting 5.5 gallons post-boil volume, figuring about a half gallon of it will be lost to trub in the kettle. That allows for five gallons to make it to the fermenter with minimal trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just in case there is some confusion caused by the style of beer, brewing a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cream_ale&quot;&gt;cream ale&lt;/a&gt;&quot; is no different than brewing most types of beer. The trub that you refer to as cream is part of brewing, regardless of the beer style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T12:00:16.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12961" CreationDate="2014-09-24T14:39:15.543" Score="3" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;The proprietor at my LHBS gave me an unsold &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast 1968&lt;/a&gt; smack pack that was well over a year old. I made a starter for it just to see if it was still viable. It was not viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I need to make a WLP001 starter for a batch I'm brewing this weekend, and I'd like to use this failed starter for that. My understanding is that dead yeast make for good nutrition for active yeast. Would it be a bad idea to add a little water to the failed starter, boil it for 10 minutes, and use it for the WLP001 starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T01:09:56.470" Title="Can I reuse a failed starter?" Tags="|yeast-starters|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-24T18:58:07.260" Score="4" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very little information can be found around internet about &quot;photoisomerization&quot; in beers. This is a chemical reaction on acids of hops if exposed to the light, such as in transparent bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could find that the visible light of blue frequency only, and the invisible light UV (only), can cause photoisomerization, but it isn't widely known neither are consensus about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone could confirm that ? Or give more detailed information about the light frequencies that can cause photoisomerization ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that just UV + blue light can cause it, I have a lot of questions like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why UV and blue light filters aren't used to non-brown bottles keeping the beer protected against the photoisomerization ? Just costs ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are in brown bottles that can filter UV ? What is their efficiency to filter UV and blue light ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T03:39:43.543" Title="Hop photoisomerization (light effect on transparent bottles)" Tags="|off-flavor|bottles|light|better-bottle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7831" CreationDate="2014-09-25T00:17:26.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also look into trying to make a refractometer work.  I actually sell SG/density and online refracs to the breweries.  Nothing that you'd put in your home kit (unless you've got $10k laying around), but the refrac is actually a great way to measure actual concentration, where the SG/density can be effected by suspended solids and air.  Not sure if one of the home/handheld refracs could be rigged up, but that might be worth a shot???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8250" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T00:17:26.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12958" CreationDate="2014-09-25T01:09:56.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to add baking yeast into the starter boil as a nutrient to my beer yeast, all good. I believe you're safe with what you want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last Q, how did you determine that the yeast is not viable? I fridge store my yeast samples for a year and get a visibly healthy starter after 2 days of inoculation. &quot;Visibly&quot; as in &quot;it bubbles a lot&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T01:09:56.470" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12967" CreationDate="2014-09-26T20:22:13.197" Score="4" ViewCount="11511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just moved my (first) batch to my secondary fermenter. While doing so it became apparent that I did not top off to five gallons like I thought and instead it seems closer to four gallons. I now have relatively concentrated brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I boil and cool some water to top it off or will this ruin the batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8254" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T18:04:38.293" Title="Should I add water to an already fermenting batch?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|water|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12771" CreationDate="2014-09-26T20:22:46.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not completely useless, but also not reliable. There are some expensive labs that can analyze your filtered water, but really it's the ratios that you will want to worry about with brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A consumer carbon filter (or what have you) will take out some of the chlorine and minerals from your water, but I'm guessing the majority of mineral ratios will remain largely intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the book on brewing with water:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://smile.amazon.com/Water-Comprehensive-Brewers-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381993/ref=tmm_pap_title_0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://smile.amazon.com/Water-Comprehensive-Brewers-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381993/ref=tmm_pap_title_0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's better to use filtered water in America due to all the hardness, chlorine and fluoride they put in the water, and from there you can add/adjust/experiment. If you use reverse osmosis, you definitely want to add to the hardness of your water for All Grain mashes as this strips much more essential minerals for an effective starch conversion and also for proper yeast growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T20:22:46.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12964" CreationDate="2014-09-27T01:57:45.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can top up if you want, but you don't have to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiling the water and cooling is necessary, since boiling both sanitizes and releases dissolved oxygen, which would prematurely stale the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T01:57:45.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12964" CreationDate="2014-09-27T02:02:13.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When racking from a primary fermenter to a secondary vessel, you will leave behind a non-trivial amount of &quot;stuff&quot; so the volume in the secondary will be less than the volume in the primary. If you start with five gallons in the fermenter you won't have five gallons left to bottle, but it isn't any more concentrated than when you started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your OG and FG were about where you expected them to be, you probably should leave it alone. Otherwise, you're just diluting your beer. Quality over quantity!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yes, if you want to top up, you can boil and cool some water and gently add it without causing harm (other than dilution).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T02:02:13.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12979" CreationDate="2014-09-27T16:18:49.447" Score="0" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can somebody help  me with a home-brew method to produce a 3-4% alcoholic beer from wheat or barely without much apparatus.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8266" OwnerDisplayName="JTsunami" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T15:34:47.863" Title="Easiest low on alcohol homebrew" Tags="|brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12968" CreationDate="2014-09-27T17:27:04.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All you have to do is limit the amount of fermentables, either grain or extract, that you use.  Do you brew now?  Does what I said make sense or do you need more explanation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T17:27:04.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-28T17:45:20.860" Score="0" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just racked my hard cider. There is leftover liquid with lees now and I was wonder if that can be filtered and drank. Any thoughts ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T19:29:40.513" Title="Can I drink this ? Hard cider rack leftovers" Tags="|cider|racking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-28T18:43:05.897" Score="1" ViewCount="1973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried my very first home brew kit recently. I don't recall the specific brand, but it was a 'Newkie Brown' kit that came in a tin and was like black treacle to start with (e.g. a syrup not a powder or something, not sure what other types are to start with...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed the instructions pretty accurately. I made up 23 litres of the liquid and left it for 6 days in the bucket (as per the instructions). The instructions said it should be kept at between 18 and 20 degrees (centigrade) - the only space I had big enough was the boiler cupboard and the temp unfortunately hovered around 22 degrees. I used brewers sugar in the first stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next stage was to bottle the beer and leave at room temp for 2 weeks. I bottled up 48 bottles and have them in a kitchen cupboard - should be pretty room temp-ish. I used regular granulated sugar in this stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I say, I followed the instructions to what I consider pretty well (other than the temp, which was only a few degrees out), but today, after leaving them for two weeks in the bottle as described, the beer is extremely fizzy, i.e. when I open a bottle a great big jet of it sprays out (like opening Champagne). It's not super fizzy when drinking it, although I can see a small stream of bubbles rising from one spot at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the beer is not clear and the instructions said it was ready when it was clear. Also, it's not just a bit cloudy, it's entirely opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It tastes OK - no weird twangs or bad aftertaste or anything. All of the equipment - bucket, siphoning kit, bottles, stirrer, etc, were all thoroughly sterilized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it need more time and then it will clear? Did I do something badly wrong and it will never clear? Could the increased first stage temp be the cause? Are the kits a waste of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8261" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T18:53:18.483" Title="Ale is cloudy and really fizzy" Tags="|ale|cloudy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13260" CreationDate="2014-09-29T02:38:17.103" Score="2" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a lot of beer making (primarily pale ales, hefeweizens, and IPAs) for about 5 years, and mead for about 15 years. I would like to request a &quot;go to&quot; non or low alcoholic root beer recipe (ie: 0.25% - 0.35% tops ABV) brewed by hand. Without a community endorsed recipe, I am currently considering the following (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f95/i-need-rootbeer-recipe-supplier-362079/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;from Homebrew Forums&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Start with 4.5 quarts of water and put all ingredients in pot besides&#xA;  sugar and molasses, bring to a boil. Once boiling put lid on and&#xA;  simmer on medium low heat for 15-20 min. Cool down and put in a 2&#xA;  liter with yeast to carb over the next few days or use a carbonator&#xA;  cab for instant carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 tbsp. Licorice Root 4 crushed Star Anise Pods 1 Cinnamon stick&#xA;  (approx. 4 inches) 1 Vanilla Bean(approx. 6 inches) 1tbsp. dried&#xA;  Wintergreen Leaves 1/4 tsp. ground Nutmeg 5 pieces of whole Allspice 2&#xA;  cups of Cane Sugar 1 tbsp Brown sugar 1-1.5 tbsp. Blackstrap Molasses&#xA;  1 tbsp Honey&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of this, and most importantly, how can I impart a buttery flavor? Not just a butterscotch flavor, which is usually absorbed by an excessive amount of sweeteners, but a bit of actual butter flavor, like Butter-Flavored Pockey sticks, like putting whipped butter on top of waffles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am stepping back from beer brewing since I don't have the luxury of being able to throw back a few, and would like to still take part in homebrewing as it has always been a hobby of mine. I figured if I could pull off a good &quot;Butterbeer&quot; recipe, it would be a nice gift to one of my nieces, whose friends are all currently obsessed with the Harry Potter novels, and has already had two themed birthday parties based off of the series. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3214" LastEditorUserId="3214" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T13:36:31.750" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T02:24:44.757" Title="Butter Flavor in Non-Alcoholic Rootbeer Recipe (Harry Potter Inspired)" Tags="|beer|alcohol-content|sweetness|root-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12978" CreationDate="2014-09-29T04:34:33.540" Score="1" ViewCount="1543" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the pros and cons about mash in coolers or pots? How to choose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastEditorUserId="3528" LastEditDate="2017-05-10T16:20:33.290" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T16:20:33.290" Title="Pot or cooler based mash tun?" Tags="|mash-tun|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12971" CreationDate="2014-09-29T08:30:01.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, welcome to the world of brewing! There are so many different parameters that can cause so many different outputs of the beer that it is very difficult to pinpoint exactly what you did, caused what output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with it fizzing is most likely over-carbonation. From my experience it takes a while to master how much sugar to put into the finished product, to give just the right amount of foam and carbonation. I have had batches that have had exploding bottles in my storage, to beer that hardly even has bubbles in them, practice makes perfect. In order to get the right amount use a priming sugar (the sugar put into the bottles to produce carbonation) calculator; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;example here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, clarity is not a very good pointer to whether the beer is &quot;done&quot; or not. If you are done with fermenting it, and have left it in the bottle for a few weeks and are happy with the taste, then I would call that done. Having cloudy or opaque beers is not uncommon, look at many commercial beers for instance, and are quite common when homebrewing due to the lack of filtration. If you insist on having clear beers I would recommmend trying Irish Moss when brewing (or something similar, your local supplier can probably help you out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kits are not really a waste of time, they introduce you to the magical world of homebrews and are great stepping stones to becoming a master brewer. In order to get a bit more wiggle room for different hops and malts I would quite quickly move on to brewing with extracts or steeping. A great guide to getting started with either one is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T08:30:01.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12976" CreationDate="2014-09-29T11:45:12.100" Score="1" ViewCount="1443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got 50 bottles to sterilize tonight but unfortunately have an extraordinarily small sink which can only fit 4 bottles at a time.  The sterilizer I have (bruclens cleaner) requires everything to be soaked for 10 minutes so I was wondering...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I just made the sterilizer came in to contact with all of the bottle could I just leave it for 10 minutes before rinsing?  This is similar to what the instructions say for cleaning the fermentation bucket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is putting the bottles in the oven as effective as using a sterilizer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll be sterilizing my bottling bucket at the same time, can I put a load of bottles in there at the same time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware I could use star san or something similar but I won't be able to pick that up in time for bottling up tonight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8263" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T17:46:26.100" Title="Efficiently sterilizing bottles" Tags="|bottling|sterilization|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12975" CreationDate="2014-09-29T11:58:30.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you have a bottling bucket? Can't you just fill the sterilizer directly into the bottles? Then leave them for 10 mins before emptying and putting the same sterilizer into the next batch of bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T11:58:30.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12975" CreationDate="2014-09-29T14:52:39.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not a lot of information on Bruclens on the Internet, but it seems like it is packaged and sold by Wilkos in the UK, and its active ingredients include sodium percarbonate (the same active ingredient in OxyClean Free, which is a cleanser), and 7% chlorine (which is the sanitizer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I just made the sterilizer came in to contact with all of the bottle could I just leave it for 10 minutes before rinsing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. With chlorine-based sanitizers, as long as you mix them to the recommended concentration, you just have to keep the surface wet for the recommended contact time and do not need to completely immerse the item being sanitized. Then you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; rinse off the sanitizer lest you end up with band-aid (plaster), chloraseptic (sort of like Dettol) off-flavors. Bruclens is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a no-rinse sanitizer, so you must rinse it off with sanitary water. &lt;em&gt;I recommend keeping a spray bottle filled with your sanitizing solution, and you can spray things wet, including the inside of bottles.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is putting the bottles in the oven as effective as using a sterilizer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it can be, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1205/wiki-bottle-sanitizing-techniques-pros-cons/1207#1207&quot;&gt;here is how to do it&lt;/a&gt;. Some people on other forums have experienced that heating the bottles in the oven weakens the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend switching in the future to a no-rinse sanitizer such as Star-San or Iodophor (sold in the UK as Betadine, Evans FamM30, Evans V.18 -- look for the words povidone-iodine or povidone). The same rule applies -- as long as you mix them to the recommended concentration, you just have to keep the surface wet for the recommended contact time -- and you do NOT have to rinse and SHOULD NOT rinse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T15:00:50.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12973" CreationDate="2014-09-29T15:14:26.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cooler as Mash Tun&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pros:&lt;/em&gt; Relatively cheap and easy to modify with a bulkhead fitting and ball valve. Holds a steady temperature very well. Lighter weight, and therefore easier to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cons:&lt;/em&gt; Cannot be direct-fired, so any step mashing has to be done with additional infusions or by decoction - step infusions will increase your mash's water-to-grist ratio. Will not perform double duty as a kettle (but can be used for cold beverages).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kettle as Mash Tun&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pros:&lt;/em&gt; Can be direct-fired for stepped mash schedules. Can be used in advanced homebrewing setups such as RIMS or HERMS systems. Can double as a kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cons:&lt;/em&gt; Higher cost. The kettle is not insulated, so it is harder to maintain a steady temperature. More difficult to modify to add a ball valve. Heavier, and therefore harder to clean, relatively speaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How to choose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It comes down to your budget and personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T18:41:03.960" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T18:41:03.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12968" CreationDate="2014-09-29T15:26:59.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are asking us to describe how to perform a process that encompasses everything in this stackexchange. The answer could possibly fill a shelf full of books. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, let me to refer you to few sources that have already summarized this for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt;, by John Palmer, which is one of the recognized guides . The first edition is available for free online. Chapters 1 and 2 give you the basic process when starting with malt extract where fermentable sugars have been extracted for you, and then you will need to understand Chapters 14 through 18 to learn how to extract the fermentable sugars yourself from grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Prior post on &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6255/the-cheapest-way-to-start-brewing&quot;&gt;the cheapest way to start brewing&lt;/a&gt;, which will correlate closely with the least amount of equipment needed. You can consider the kit sold by &lt;a href=&quot;http://brooklynbrewshop.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brooklyn Brew Shop&lt;/a&gt; as being the minimum you need to get started making a beer from grains, plus you will need a bottle capper and unused bottle caps (or you can use twist-off plastic bottles) and table sugar (sucrose) to bottle the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) Review &lt;a href=&quot;http://brooklynbrewshop.com/instructions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video on making beer from grains on a one-gallon scale&lt;/a&gt; by Brooklyn Brew Shop. There are many more videos on YouTube on this topic, and I can recommend the ones on Northern Brewer's YouTube channel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as making your beer in the 3-4% alcohol by volume range, it comes down to extracting less fermentable sugar from the grains as @Denny_Conn suggests - use less grain, mash at a higher temperature, and/or use a less attenuative yeast. 3-4% is not uncommonly low for German wheat beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T15:34:47.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12973" CreationDate="2014-09-29T15:33:17.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a cooler for 466 batches over the last 17 years.  I have tried using a pot to mash in and found I preferred the cooler because it held the temp so well.  I seldom find a need to do step mashes and in fact question their value.  But when I want to do one, it's a simple matter to simply infuse boiling water until I get to the temp step I'm going for.  You can see my equipment and methods at www.dennybrew.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T15:33:17.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12971" CreationDate="2014-09-29T16:00:12.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carbonation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with @Sander's recommendation to use an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#q=priming+sugar+calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online priming sugar calculator&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;I respectfully disagree that carbonating in bottles is an art -- it is repeatable science&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to get close enough to moderately carbonated beer, but not necessarily precisely what the styles calls for, is to use carbonation drops, Coopers tabs, Prime Tabs, etc. These are basically sugar lozenges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the key is to understand the process, and to disregard your kit's generic instruction on priming sugar amount. For equipment and supplies, you need a one gram-resolution scale ($10 in the U.S. from Amazon), a mixing spoon, some pre-mixed sanitizer solution to sanitize the spoon, and some sort of sugar. It is almost essential to have a bottling bucket with spigot that you have pre-calibrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can calibrate a bucket by marking graduation lines for every quart or liter (fill with water, mark a line, repeat). You only need to get to quart/liter increments when you are near your standard batch volume (e.g., for 19L batches, I would mark from 15L through 21L, and in 5-liter or one-gallon increments until you get there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, refined white table sugar (sucrose) works best for priming because it is cheap, readily-available, pure, and reliable. But dextrose aka &lt;em&gt;pure&lt;/em&gt; glucose is OK too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to know your exact beer volume, the highest temperature that your beer reached after the vigorous stage of fermentation was over (roughly when krausen drops), and your beer style. Plug these into the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#q=priming+sugar+calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online priming sugar calculator&lt;/a&gt;. It will give you the precise amount of sugar to add for your type of sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Weigh&lt;/em&gt; it out. Do not measure it by volume (cup, teaspoons, etc.). Boil this in a small amount of water. Half a cup is usually enough for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now thoroughly mix the sugar water into the beer. It takes more mixing than you think, or you will have a batch of flat bottles and bottle bombs. But it is absolutely crucial to stir gently so as not to make any splashes, waves, or bubbles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why you want a separate bottling bucket --because this process will stir up all of the sediment, which is not part of the beer. So how will you exactly measure volume? Do you want to add that sediment to your bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clarity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as clarity, you can look up ways to add finings to your beer or to achieve clarity in this forum. Use keywords finings or clarity in your search. You can cold crash your beer by putting the fermenter in a fridge or cold location to speed up clearing of suspended particles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarity is not necessarily a sure sign the beer is done, but it is one sign. When the yeast drop out of suspension, then you have a clue you are closed to finished. If you bottle the beer to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that you got old or bad cans of extract -- I experienced a persistent haze using old cans back in the 1990s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another possibility is that you are bottling with a lot of sediment and/or disturbing the yeast on the bottom of your bottle when you pour, making you beer cloudy. Look up &quot;how to pour homebrew&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="3950" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T18:38:40.777" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T18:38:40.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12971" CreationDate="2014-09-29T18:53:18.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the most likely cause is not overpriming, but that you bottled it too soon.  Even at as high a temperature as you used, it's pretty unlikely that the beer was finished fermenting in 6 days.  Even if it was, that's not enough time for yeast and proteins to drop out and the beer to clear.  I highly recommend keeping it refrigerated for 3 reasons...first, if it wasn't truly finished when you bottled it, keeping it cold will reduce continued fermentation.  CO2 also goes into solution more readily at cold temps, so it may be less fizzy (although it may not).  Finlly, keeping it cold will help all the stuff in the beer precipitate and fall to the bottom if the bottle so you can leave it behind when you pour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T18:53:18.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-29T22:29:34.673" Score="1" ViewCount="1066" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cornelius kegs come in various sizes, but many home brewers use the &quot;five gallon&quot; (nominal) size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Including the headspace, how much volume is available inside of the standard five gallon Cornelius keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T15:08:29.353" Title="What is the overall volume of a Corny keg?" Tags="|corny-keg|headspace|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12984" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-30T03:34:33.997" Score="1" ViewCount="3188" Body="&lt;p&gt;has anyone made a Leffe Brune clone, please tell me what you used and how it turned out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8195" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T12:58:44.917" Title="Belgium clones leffe brune" Tags="|beer|belgian|clone-recipe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-30T08:51:17.733" Score="1" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to get a good rolling boil on 5 gallons of wort, on a really tight budget&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my best options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T12:36:12.863" Title="Camping stove as a wort heater" Tags="|wort|boil|brewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12985" CreationDate="2014-09-30T11:04:13.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0002913MI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NASA burner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros: it's cheap and powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons: it's NOISY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-10-01T12:35:16.397" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T12:35:16.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12983" CreationDate="2014-09-30T12:20:56.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tested one of my pin lock kegs just the other day, and it came out to almost exactly five gallons. There was just a tiny bit of space left at the top after adding five gallons of water, as measured by filling a one-gallon pitcher five times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if pin lock and ball lock differ, nor do I know if it might vary by manufacturer. For what it's worth, Wikipedia says &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keg#U.S._keg_sizes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;soda kegs hold 5 gallons&lt;/a&gt; with no mention of variation by type or manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T12:20:56.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12984" CreationDate="2014-09-30T12:49:32.503" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;brewtoad is a great place to search for clones. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewtoad.com/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;amp;search=Leffe+Brune+Clone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.brewtoad.com/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;amp;search=Leffe+Brune+Clone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8172" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T12:49:32.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12983" CreationDate="2014-09-30T15:08:29.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine seem to hold just under 5.25 gal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T15:08:29.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12985" CreationDate="2014-09-30T15:11:20.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the years, I have moved from the stove in my kitchen to outdoors using a propane burner.  I have gone through 3-4 different burners looking for n that was both maximally effective and also quiet.  This is what I currently use and by far the best I've found....&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewinternational.com/bayou-classic-banjo-cooker-22-kab6/?gclid=CjwKEAjwqamhBRDeyKKuuYztxwQSJAA1luvGH8HlXizqLju89okjgZ6yGjvPVPZtdtXoIMwYheiRjxoC6tjw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bayou Classic Burner&lt;/a&gt; .  That style of burner is available from a number of sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-10-01T12:34:39.037" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T12:34:39.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12975" CreationDate="2014-09-30T17:40:05.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the fermentation bucket for bottle sanitizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with Chino Brews in recommending the use of a no-rinse sanitizer. I've been using BTF Iodophor. It only requires a two minute contact and no rinsing (rinsing is prohibited, actually). I've been brewing for about 9 months (not long, I know) and I'm working on my 7th beer now and I have had good experience with iodophor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iodophor is a sanitizer only, so you'll have to properly clean your bottles before using iodophor. I actually use a large sink for the cleaning process, but I used to use the fermentation bucket before I had a large sink. I've been using TDC Glassware Detergent for this step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8268" LastEditorUserId="8268" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T17:46:26.100" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T17:46:26.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12964" CreationDate="2014-09-30T18:04:38.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To save time, I top off my brew to 5 gallons just before bottling (with water that has been boiled and cooled, of course). I'll be adding the priming sugar at this stage anyway, so I just bump up the amount of water used to dissolve the priming sugar enough to top off my brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8268" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T18:04:38.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12995" CreationDate="2014-09-30T20:21:56.830" Score="2" ViewCount="876" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like, for example, if you select a yeast with an average attenuation of 80%, but you mash at 160, which limits attenuation to 76.8%&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, would the limit simply be the lower of the limit or the average attenuation? (76.8) or would you multiply the limits? (like 0.77*0.80 ~=61%) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, does anyone know if a more detailed breakdown than the one linked &#xA;(pasted for convenience)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;140ºF (60ºC)    149ºF (65ºC)    160ºF (70ºC)    167ºF (75ºC)&#xA;87.5%           86.5 %          76.8%           54.0 % &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/The_Theory_of_Mashing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/The_Theory_of_Mashing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T12:32:51.497" Title="How does the attenuation limit from mash temperature affect yeast attenuation?" Tags="|yeast|mash|temperature|attenuation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12985" CreationDate="2014-10-01T12:21:53.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From personal experience, a camping burner usually does not offer enough power to heat your wort to proper temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In South Africa we have the Cadac brand of camping burners and it takes hours to get your wort to 80, and then you are not even at a rolling boil!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought my CA6 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.seebots.co.za/ring-burners&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Six ring burner&lt;/a&gt; for about $20. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These burners are very sturdy and will last a long time (do not let them get wet though, they rust quickly). You will need a regulator and a (kg LP Gas bottle. Your gas company should be able to tell you exactly what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-10-01T12:36:12.863" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T12:36:12.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12993" CreationDate="2014-10-01T12:32:51.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are over thinking and and mis-interpreting the point of the &quot;theory of mashing&quot; article.  That table regarding mash temp and attenuation is only specific to the wort tested.  It's meant as a demonstration of how increasing temps may make a less fermentable wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentability of a wort is based on much more than temperature of the mash.  The composition of the grist can have a much bigger effect than temp alone.  Manipulating temps is a tool for overcoming the limitations of the grist.  Consider the differences between three grists:  100% 2-row, 50% corn- 50% 2-row, 50%corn 50% Munich.  In each case the total diastatic power of the grist is different.  If you mashed each one at the same temp you'd likely get three different attenuations.  There is no way to calculate the fermentability of your wort.  It can only be tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you are correct however in assuming that which ever factor is the least attenuative that will drive your attenuation.  A 100% fermentable sugar solution will only attenuate to the level that the yeast can tolerate the alcohol or lack of nutrients.  Where as if you make a wort that contains 30% non fermentables; a yeast that can go to 80% attenuation will stop at 70% attenuation because there is nothing left to ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T12:32:51.497" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12970" CreationDate="2014-10-01T17:12:14.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No reason why not.  It's just cider.  Though the lees will give you some weird flavors.  And bad gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3597" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T17:12:14.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-02T20:33:32.553" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was gonna use 1.5kg of LME and then make another 1.5kg with some MO grain. I've only got a 5L pot but I could get another to make 10L total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds stupid but to get another 1.5kg would I just add 1.5kg of MO to the pot or do I need more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7885" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T20:43:58.557" Title="Attempting a partial mash - what grain bill?" Tags="|partial-mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12997" CreationDate="2014-10-02T22:14:27.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure you're asking the question in the right way, e.g. what your intended sort is and what OG you're targeting, your batch size etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it worth, accordingly to a Beersmith calculator, 1.5 kg LME should give you ~0.024 gravity points for 20 liters. To get the equal amount from grain, you need 2.5 kg of grain with efficiency 65%, give or take. A 10 liters pot would be handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T22:14:27.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12955" CreationDate="2014-10-03T11:28:12.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed a weldless blichmann Brewmometer and reading the specifications for it, it recommended to install it at least 6&quot; of the bottom. This recommended minimum height was not in order for the temperature-probe to always be in the center, or even immersed in the liquid at all times, but to prevent the heat from the stove/cooker &quot;rolling&quot; over the edges of the pot and reaching the thermometer. This will most likely kill your thermometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So taking this into account, put the pot onto your stove and start brewing. When you are getting a boil, check to see at what height of the pot you can comfortably hold your hand without having to pull it away; this will be the minimum distance you should place the thermometer at in order not to damage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to getting the correct temperature, if you stir your wort to circulate the liquid it should have &lt;em&gt;roughly&lt;/em&gt; the same temperature no matter where you decide to place it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T11:28:12.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13002" CreationDate="2014-10-03T20:15:19.083" Score="3" ViewCount="14904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did my first brew (all grain), some things were complicated to achieve and finished at 4 o'clock in the morning because I decided to start at 10 pm (big mistake). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of it all, after I sanitize equipment and put the wort in the fermenter bucket, I sealed and placed the arilock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only to realize that I did not put water in the airlock after only seven days of fermentation! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do now? A second fermentation? Set everything out and redo my beer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The airlock (&quot;S&quot; type) that I use is this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://ebrew.com/Products_A/airlock_s-type.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ebrew.com/Products_A/airlock_s-type.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8269" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-10-04T16:02:29.763" LastActivityDate="2019-05-24T08:49:20.520" Title="I forgot to put water in the airlock! What do I do now?" Tags="|all-grain|first-time-brewer|airlock|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13000" CreationDate="2014-10-03T20:55:26.107" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seal the beer off from oxygen as soon as possible. If you decide to use the airlock, use sanitized water only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, put a layer of the gas over your beer as soon as possible (then close it off). If you've achieved your desired final gravity and you don't need to let it sit in the fermenter any longer, you could also bottle it or keg it right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky, you shouldn't need to do anything. Because CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is heavier than oxygen, and CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is a byproduct of fermentation, during fermentation, and for some time after fermentation, there will be a layer of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; protecting your beer from oxygen, as long as you don't mess with it too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To decide whether your ruined your beer or not, John Palmer's site may be helpful (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21.html&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8151" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T20:55:26.107" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13000" CreationDate="2014-10-04T04:09:31.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;RDWHAHB. Your beer is probably fine. Gases generally flow out during primary fermentation, not draw in. If you want to leave the beer in primary for a while, put some water in the airlock. If you want to rack to secondary, rack. Now actually might be a good time to take a hydrometer sample. Taste the sample to convince yourself that your beer is OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T04:09:31.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13000" CreationDate="2014-10-04T15:27:30.340" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@derek.cormier and @bughunter are generally correct.  You have a very good chance of everything being fine.  Besides oxidation though, you also should consider possible infection of the brew by unwanted wild yeast or bacteria.  A lot depends on how fast your ferment got started, and the presence of fruit flies and the like which spread wild yeast from rotting fruit in the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your ferment got off to a good start, then the intended yeast will have bred up quickly, so as well as helping avoid oxidation, you'll be less vulnerable to wild yeast and bacteria infecting your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably a good idea to drop a crushed campden tablet into your brew.  Commercial yeast is bred to survive the sulphur dioxide that this releases into your brew, while it will kill most wild yeast and bacteria.  The SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; bubbles off so will have little effect on the final brew, although there are a few people out there who react badly to it even in very small quantities (they know who they are, and have problems with almost all commercially produced wine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7965" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T15:27:30.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13000" CreationDate="2014-10-04T16:01:21.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your beer is almost certainly fine, and you don't need to do anything except fill the airlock with water, and attach it to the fermenter. The release of CO2 in the fermenting beer creates positive pressure within the fermenter, which will help keep out oxygen and spoilage organisms. After fermentation is complete, it's possible for gas and bugs to enter through the airlock, but they'd have to get around the s-curve, so it's unlikely that there was any significant contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of traditional breweries ferment in open containers, and still manage to make excellent beer. Google &quot;open fermentation&quot; and take a look a the images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T16:01:21.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-04T21:54:23.873" Score="7" ViewCount="24472" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anybody tried carbonating a couple of bottles a little early in the priming period - you know, just because guests are coming by and that batch is a little young in the bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard it can be very messy, but if the pressure is released very slowly it can be done.&#xA;Another question is how does it compare to bottle priming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any experience before I paint the walls with beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8113" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T13:19:34.743" Title="carbonating using a soda stream" Tags="|carbonation|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-05T18:58:50.583" Score="-6" ViewCount="3969" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere that people who drink beer get more stupid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that true? Does beer kill brain cells or what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8279" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-10-06T16:25:27.877" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T18:22:39.260" Title="Does beer make you stupid?" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-10-27T09:59:18.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-05T21:14:22.913" Score="3" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a large chest freezer that I use to brew all my beer. It was always difficult for me to clean it because my brewing schedule did not allow for less than 3/4 of the freezer to be empty at any given time. I happened to fall behind schedule and now have a short window where the freezer is entirely empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sprayed the whole thing down with a lot of 409 and scrubbed, which gets most of it clean but its not near perfectly clean, which is where I would like to get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a preferred chemical I can use that is good for cleaning up wort blow-off on the surface of the inside of a freezer (which Google says is &quot;vacuum formed plastic&quot;)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-10-06T16:28:10.847" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T14:17:29.740" Title="How to clean the inside of a refrigerator?" Tags="|cleaning|blow-off|refrigerator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-06T12:24:45.390" Score="2" ViewCount="1445" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week, I decided to make a simple pale ale. I wanted something fairly light, not too bitter, and with a hint of caramel. I had some CTZ and Simcoe hops in the freezer so I wanted to use those in this brew. I am not an expert by any means, but below is what I came up with. Notice that all the hops were added with 20 minutes or less. The aroma addition was at flameout with a 15-minute hop stand before chilling. I intended to use pale malt but at the last moment decided to use pale ale malt instead, which I've never used before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fermentables&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Name    Type    Amount  Mashed  Late    Yield   Color&#xA;Weyermann - Pale Ale Malt   Grain   11.000 lb   Yes No  85% 3.4 srm&#xA;Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L  Grain   1.000 lb    Yes No  74% 40.0 srm&#xA;Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L  Grain   6.000 oz    Yes No  74% 80.0 srm&#xA;Total grain: 12.375 lb&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hops&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Name    Alpha   Amount  Use Time    Form    IBU&#xA;CTZ     15.5%   1.000 oz    Boil    20.000 min  Pellet  26.8&#xA;Simcoe  13.0%   1.000 oz    Boil    10.000 min  Pellet  13.5&#xA;Simcoe  13.0%   1.000 oz    Aroma   15.000 min  Pellet  0.0&#xA;CTZ     15.5%   1.000 oz    Dry Hop 7.000 day   Pellet  0.0&#xA;Simcoe  13.0%   1.000 oz    Dry Hop 7.000 day   Pellet  0.0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the boil, while racking from the kettle to the fermenter, I noticed an aroma of Southern sweet tea. I had hoped that would go away, but when I took a hydrometer sample last night it was still there in a big way. I also get very little of what one would expect from the Simcoe hops. There is also not enough bitterness, likely owing to the fact that the CTZ I used were only 12.9% AA instead of the 15.5% value Brewtarget uses by default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What could have caused this tea aroma? Is more likely the hops or the pale ale malt?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this something that is likely to fade over time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kegged and served this beer last night, and it turned out pretty good. More caramel flavor than I expected but not over the top. I definitely get an earthy flavor from the late CTZ hops. But the more relevant point is that the tea aroma has gone away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed a porter this past weekend that had neither Simcoe nor CTZ in it, and I caught a faint whiff of that aroma again as I moved it to the fermenter. It dawned on me then that I started smelling this when I switched from Irish moss to Whirlfloc (5 minutes). Every batch in which I've used Whirlfloc has had that aroma when it went into the fermenter. Thankfully, it does go away after a couple of weeks in the fermenter and does not affect the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I suspect it's the Whirlfloc. I've read complaints of a &quot;fishy&quot; or &quot;oceany&quot; smell when people overuse the stuff, but never &quot;tea&quot; like I experience. I guess that could come down to my sniffer just being a little different. This will not deter me from using Whirlfloc, though. That stuff is way better than the Irish moss I was using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastEditorUserId="6160" LastEditDate="2014-10-16T14:50:40.133" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T21:21:14.587" Title="Tea-like aroma in my beer" Tags="|hops|aroma|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13008" CreationDate="2014-10-06T13:01:33.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Studies have shown that beer is good for the brain and heart if you drink in moderation. Like most things in life if you do too much then it becomes problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.everydayhealth.com/healthy-living/0315/tap-into-beers-health-benefits.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tap Into Beer's Health Benefits&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8172" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T18:21:20.900" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T18:21:20.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13008" CreationDate="2014-10-06T14:32:38.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, alcohol doesn't kill brain cells, but does effect your brain while drinking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's true that at high concentrations, like the nearly 100-percent&#xA;  pure alcohol used in sterilizing solutions, alcohol can indeed kill&#xA;  cells and neurons (and nearly anything else). But given that the blood&#xA;  reaching your brain is only at 0.08 percent alcohol if you're legally&#xA;  intoxicated, or, say, 0.25 percent if you've just closed a major deal&#xA;  in Tokyo, it's not doing a lot of damage to your actual brain cells&#xA;  (liver cells and other organs, with long-term chronic abuse, are&#xA;  another matter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Don't believe it? A major study by Grethe Jensen and colleagues in&#xA;  1993 matched brain samples taken from both alcoholics and&#xA;  nonalcoholics, from groups of the two dead from non-alcohol-related&#xA;  causes. There were no significant differences found in either the&#xA;  number or density of brain cells between the groups. Misconception&#xA;  Junction tackles Jensen's study and the topic in more depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What alcohol can and does do to your brain is affect the way your&#xA;  neurons get their firing triggers from glutamate. It infiltrates the&#xA;  glutamate receptors in your synapses, hurting their ability to send&#xA;  off their normal &quot;fire&quot; messages. Alcohol has this impact all across&#xA;  your brain—the parts that control muscles, speech, coordination,&#xA;  judgment, and so on. Keep that in mind the next time you or someone&#xA;  else claims that they drive, golf, or otherwise perform some task&#xA;  better with alcohol's help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lifehacker.com/5684996/what-alcohol-actually-does-to-your-brain-and-body&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;What Alcohol Actually Does to Your Brain and Body&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T18:22:39.260" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T18:22:39.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12942" CreationDate="2014-10-06T15:08:37.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen stainless steel handrails and pipelines fixed and welded on site, to get the finish back the guys use abrasive strips of varying grades until it shines. I imagine you only need to get the finish back to a point where there are no areas that bacteria could hide in the rough finish, so a satin finish should be fine and then make double sure with the sanitising before using the pot each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8283" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T15:08:37.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12249" CreationDate="2014-10-06T17:00:36.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water may be the problem, but I'd focus on some easier solutions first.  Confirming mash temp with a second thermometer.  Mashing a little thinner (1.5-1.75qt/lb)and cooler (145-149F).  And I would strongly recommend repeating one of the same beers you've already made so you can compare the end result with a prior result. THIS IS VITAL otherwise you really compound the ability to figure out what the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go down the water chemistry route I'd buy some cheap pH strips initially.  Test the water pH and the mash pH and see where you are at.  If you are in the 5.0-5.4 ballpark then your FG issues are more likely related to recipe or fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, at the end of your next test batch grab a quart of wort an do a forced fermentation test.  Put that sterile quart of wort in a two quart sanitized jar.  Add half a pack of US05 dry yeast (rehydrated) and let it ferment in warm place (80F).  Shake it periodically to make sure they yeast don't settle out to soon.  After a week check its SG, if the FG is where you wanted it to be, then you have a fermentation/yeast management issue with your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T17:00:36.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2014-10-06T20:53:03.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to add real fruit to any brew you'll want to do so in secondary to get the most flavor. I've had really good success in taking my fruit of choice and pureeing it in a food processor with little vodka - about 1/4 cup per 2lb of fruit seems a good balance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vodka will help kill off any additional bugs that may have made it past washing the fruit, but won't add hardly any alcohol or off flavors to the beer itself. That process worked amazingly will for a mixed berry saison I brewed this past spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8287" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T20:53:03.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-07T00:19:49.750" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a wine kit with pre-packaged must.  It calls for a secondary fermentation after 5 - 7 days then stabalising about 10 days later by adding clarification agents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to let things sit.  Do I need to re-rack before stabalising or can I wait and rack prior to stabilising?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7992" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T03:33:06.277" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T02:51:26.477" Title="Wine Kit (extract) Secondary" Tags="|wine|secondary|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13009" CreationDate="2014-10-07T06:42:18.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;John Palmer says that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter2-2-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cleaning Plastics&lt;/a&gt; should be done with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter2-2-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Percarbonates&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good application of elbow grease also works. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T06:42:18.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13018" CreationDate="2014-10-07T12:21:20.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience has been that if your kit has oak (as dust or small chips especially) it is best to rack off of that and the dead yeast cells after primary ferment.  Bulk condition in a new carboy.  The racking also helps knock out some of the CO2 which hinders the ferment as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least that's what I have done, YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T18:45:56.433" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T18:45:56.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13010" CreationDate="2014-10-07T12:25:06.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its hard to say with out tasting it personally.  One man's tea may be another mans herbal/spice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homebrewers don't always get the best Simcoe hops available.  It might be a green bell pepper to garlic like aroma (that seems tea-ish to me mixed with wort, at least in my mind).  Those flavors can be common in Simcoe as well as the dreaded cat pee aroma/taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might fade with time, again it sort of depends on the quality of those Simcoes.  So I guess  I am blaming the Simcoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T12:25:06.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13008" CreationDate="2014-10-07T17:09:10.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's get this out of the way now -- too much alcohol does a whole host of horrible shit to just about every organ in your body. It's just that your brain isn't really one of them. Your alcoholic uncle doesn't actually get any stupider when he drinks. Meaner, but not stupider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KT1tW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;Asleep&amp;quot; isn&amp;#39;t the same as &amp;quot;brain damaged.&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Asleep&quot; isn't the same as &quot;brain damaged.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole idea of alcohol destroying your brain actually dates back to the temperance movement in America, circa 1830. Using the now familiar tactic of &quot;It's OK to lie as long as it's for a good cause,&quot; the writers of the time claimed that alcohol would do everything from destroying your brain to making you catch fire if you drank too much. Though the latter, if true, would make losing a few brain cells seem fairly minor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plenty of people believed it -- it just seems like common sense that beer destroys the brain. Have you ever seen a drunk person before? And listened to his jokes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0x6fn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;So this guy, he turned and said ... and said ... shit. It was something about priests, or bears. Hey -- QUIT LAUGHING AT ME!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;So this guy, he turned and said ... and said ... shit. It was something about priests, or bears. Hey -- QUIT LAUGHING AT ME!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet, according to scientific studies, the dopiness associated with being drunk has nothing to do with dying brain cells and everything to do with the alcohol blocking them from doing their work, inhibiting cognition and motor function. Your brain cells are fine, as long you don't walk into too many walls while you're trashed. Another point of confusion stems from the fact that there is a brain disorder that's linked to alcoholism called Wernicke-Korsakoff syndrome, which makes you dumb and destroys your memory. But this isn't actually caused by the alcohol; it's malnutrition stemming from the fact that alcoholics often have really crappy diets because the booze kills their appetite and eats up their disposable income.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cracked.com/article_19370_the-6-most-frequently-quoted-brain-facts-that-are-total-bs.html#ixzz3FTot2YGb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The 6 Most Frequently Quoted Brain Facts (That Are Total BS)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8269" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T18:21:44.190" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T18:21:44.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-07T17:50:31.840" Score="1" ViewCount="1039" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am attempting to make my own hard cider. At my school, there is a farmers market every Thursday and at this market they sell flash pasteurized cider; the process is stopped partway through so it is clean to drink but can still ferment. Anyways I have tried (with success at about a gallon per batch) to create hard cider simply by pouring the cider into bottles, stopping the bottles with cotton balls, and leaving them in a dark corner for 4 days. In that time they fermented (smelled like yeast and alcohol so at least I think they did) so I filtered them, mixed them into a big pot, brought the mixture to 160-180 degrees, and then chilled them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the last batch, one bottle had a dry white collection (looked almost like baking soda) resting above the bubbles. I mixed it with the batch anyways; is that safe? Should I toss out the batch? I drank it last night and feel fine, but what do you think it was?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the past two batches have tasted great but tend to be very very weak, bringing me to another question: if I add yeast, say champagne yeast, before I let them sit, will this increase my alcohol yield? Also, should I add sugar with the yeast? The concoction is still very sweet with the above mentioned method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8295" LastEditorUserId="8295" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T18:19:45.180" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T18:36:28.833" Title="Making Hard Cider in a Dorm" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|cider|small-batch|help|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13024" CreationDate="2014-10-07T18:36:28.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The apple juice might have some viable wild yeast present, or it may be yeast from the air inoculated the juice. Wild yeast has a low alcohol tolerance which it probably why your cider has been weak. You'll get better, more consistent results by adding cultured yeast. Champagne yeast is fine choice, if you like your hard cider without any residual sweetness, or are prepared to sweeten it just before drinking. Some ale yeasts will leave a small amount of residual sugar, but it's hard to replicate the semi-sweet taste of commercial hard cider without pasteurization and force-carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a couple changes to your procedure. This is by no means the optimum way of making cider, but it should cost you nothing beyond what the juice and yeast cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ferment the cider in bulk. Split one gallon of juice into two gallon jugs. Plastic jugs are OK. Fermentation will produce a lot of foam, so you'll want the headspace in your fermenter. Cotton balls in the neck of the jugs will help keep wild organisms out, but airlocks would be better. You can add sugar if you want to increase the alcohol percentage (you're living in a dorm, so you probably want this). Apple juice should produce between 5% and 7% ABV. You can add sugar to increase this, but if you add too much the alcohol produced will poison the yeast, and they may stop working before fermentation is complete. A pound of table sugar in a gallon of juice will add roughly 5% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add yeast to fermenters and leave them alone for at least two weeks. Try to keep the temperature constant between 65 and 70 F. Consistent fermentation temperatures make for a better tasting cider. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When fermentation activity has ceased (a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hydrometer&lt;/a&gt; would really be helpful here, but if the cider tastes dry and has started to clarify, that's an indication that fermentation has stopped) add priming sugar and bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Skip the pasteurization step, unless you plan on re-sweetening the cider and force carbonating it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The priming sugar will ferment in the bottles, producing carbonation. It's important that you get the amount right, or your bottles might explode. Use an online &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;calculator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic pop bottles will work fine, provided they are clean. You'll know that the cider has carbonated when the bottles are firm to the touch. Chilling the carbonated cider for 24 hours helps get more CO2 into solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white powder you saw could have been the beginnings of a bacterial infection, which is a common outcome when relying on wild yeast for fermentation. If it smells and tastes OK, it's unlikely to cause you any harm. But I'm not a doctor, so take my advice with a grain of salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T18:36:28.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-07T19:52:32.683" Score="3" ViewCount="1556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am on my second year producing apple cider at home, and was successful producing 40 liters of apple cider and perry last year, and are through primary fermenting about 40 liters this season. But my last batch of 20 liters, which I set in a bucket 17th September, is stuck still (&gt;20 days). What can I do now? Best course of action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;additives: Pectolase, nutrition salts, 2 table spoons campden powder all added 2 days earlier&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;temperature: between 20-25 C across 20 days&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific gravity: Measured 1.050 at 17th September, 1.045 on 9th October.&#xA;The liquid is very clear, with just very little foam on top, no bubbles or pressure on the air lock. There is no bad smell, a slight smell of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE OCT 16TH: The mystery continues. I followed the advice given here, mail ordered for more Lalvin yeast EC-1118, rehydrated and added to bucket on Oct 13th. Now it is Oct 16th, there is no pressure on the air lock, about 20 C, clear liquid, still SG 1.045. pH was estimated with indicator film to between 4 and 5. The new rehydrated yeast also bubbled, I don't think that's the problem. What is wrong? Could there be something toxic to the yeast in the batch? The only substances that comes to mind are traces of Saniclean (phosphoric acid) and dishwashing liquid, but I don't think so. Alternative hypotheses? Should I give up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8297" LastEditorUserId="8297" LastEditDate="2014-10-16T19:22:02.557" LastActivityDate="2019-08-21T14:33:16.157" Title="Apple cider fermentation stuck for 20+ days" Tags="|cider|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13026" CreationDate="2014-10-07T20:51:23.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the yeast failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;additives: Pectolase, nutrition salts, 2 table spoons campden powder&#xA;  all added 2 days earlier&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you mean that these were added two days prior to pitching the yeast? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two tablespoons seems high to me. I often add no sulphite, it the apples were in good shape before pressing. Otherwise, I add one Campden tablet per gallon, which works out to about 1.25 teaspoons in five gallons. This is just over a 1/3 tablespoon, so you added 6 times as much sulphite as I do. It could be that you over-dosed with sulphite, and even after waiting two days for the sulphur gas to dissipate, there was still enough in solution to suppress yeast activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest that you rehydrate a packet of yeast, and add it to the juice. Fermentation should kick off within a day or two, depending on temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T20:51:23.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-08T10:30:46.817" Score="1" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the fumes from growing beer yeast and is there any adverse toxic problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8299" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-10-08T14:22:28.210" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T14:22:28.210" Title="What is the smell from growing beer yeast and is there any adverse effects from the odor/fumes" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13028" CreationDate="2014-10-08T11:16:31.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are smelling esters, aldehydes and sulfides at different levels.  There are a host of many other compounds that might be coming out too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not harmful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T11:16:31.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13026" CreationDate="2014-10-08T11:19:29.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have started with poor yeast.  If the yeast was too old it could have been spent already.  If the yeast was weak the campden powder will have slowed it down a bit as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fresh pitch of yeast should get things going again as you likely haven't developed much alcohol at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T11:19:29.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-08T14:45:47.070" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with an ale kit I've brewed and kegged. I have done primary with a s04 yeast and its been in secondary for about 5 days and I've checked it this morning and its not built up pressure. I have added co2 this morning and its holding pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal with the yeast, its the first time I have added anything but the stuff you get with the kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't know if it's possible the yeast all fell out of suspension in primary so there wasn't enough to pressurise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I put it into another keg with more priming sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to have a little taste tonight to check it's still OK. I'm hoping it is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8302" LastEditorUserId="8305" LastEditDate="2014-10-08T21:15:23.543" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T21:15:23.543" Title="No pressure in secondary" Tags="|yeast|secondary-fermentation|ale|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13031" CreationDate="2014-10-08T17:17:30.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is always plenty of yeast in suspension unless one did an extended cold store in secondary.  Fermentis S04 is a pretty reliable yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't add more priming sugar yet.  I'd make sure the keg is warm enough and give it more time.  Fermentis S04 is a pretty reliable yeast, but it can be finicky to dropping temps and alcohol.  5 days is a little short to expect carbonation from this yeast if the first things I mentioned haven't been handled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, be totally sure your keg is holding pressure.  If you apply pressure and check it immediately that doesn't indicate a small leak that takes overnight to bleed out.  Spry all fittings with some foaming sanitizer to be certain no gas is escaping.  The bleed the excess CO2 as too much pressure will keep the yeast from carbonating as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T17:17:30.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-08T19:21:09.460" Score="3" ViewCount="34541" Body="&lt;p&gt;We made 50 litres of apple cider last monday night, so about 7 days ago, it has been bubbling away happily and has cleared and scum gathered around edges of bucket, today it seems to have stopped and tastes a little fiery not sweet as juice.  I think it has finished fermenting, but wondering if it is ok to leave in the bucket until this friday?  We are going away tomorrow until friday, but don't want to risk losing the lot! would it be ok? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8306" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T21:24:18.137" Title="how long can i leave cider in fermentation bucket after it has stopped bubbling?" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13034" CreationDate="2014-10-08T19:30:17.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can leave it in the bucket for 4-5 weeks if you want to.  After that, you should move it to something more impermeable to O2.  FWIW, I do a month or 2 primary fermentation for cider and then maybe 2-6 more in secondary before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T19:30:17.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-09T19:07:42.477" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a pumpkin spice porter; I am going straight to a keg. After I add my priming sugar will the CO2 carbonate my beer so i can drink it immediatly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8311" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T19:32:35.707" Title="How Long do I have to wait" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13036" CreationDate="2014-10-09T19:32:35.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will take around 2 weeks at room temp after you prime your keg for it to be carbed and ready.  After you prime it, apply some CO2 from your tank to seal the keg so that the CO2 produced by priming doesn't escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T19:32:35.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13038" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-10T09:04:34.223" Score="1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering racking my brew to a secondary FV once fermentation is complete to allow the yeasts to clean up the beer but I'm not sure if I need to maintain the same heat as I did in the primary?  Some things I've read suggest the temperature should be as low as 10 degrees Celsius but others suggest warmer.  I figured the lower temperature would be ideal for clearing the beer but wouldn't it make the yeast go dormant and prevent them cleaning up the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm only considering transferring as I only have the ability to keep one FV at the required temperature and want to get another brew on. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8263" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T12:29:18.907" Title="Secondary Temperature" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13040" CreationDate="2014-10-10T11:31:10.437" Score="2" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I feel pretty confident that the style of bottle doesn't matter too much with respect to how a given beer is conditioned, I was wondering if there were any good guidelines for choosing different bottle styles with respect to the style of beer going into it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I'd feel perfectly comfortable putting a strong IPA into a standard 22 oz. capped bottle; but is there something that &quot;makes more sense&quot; for a stout? or what style of beer makes sense to put into a 1 liter Grölsch-style flip-top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8312" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T19:32:42.253" Title="Are different style bottles more appropriate for different style beers?" Tags="|bottles|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13039" CreationDate="2014-10-10T12:25:20.567" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only consideration that comes into bottle choice really is serving size and glass strength due to carbonation levels. (Some highly carbonated styles see thicker glass for safety reasons.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is bottles that will accept corks.  Across all the different styles I've encountered in corked bottles I can't say its specific to any style.  Again you see it mostly with higher carbed beers and specialty barrel aged or soured products.  Corking is largely cosmetic though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, there are no real trends in packaging beer based upon style.  Most beer should be poured into a glass for consumption making the package irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure how this really relates to homebrewing, but that's my answer anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T12:25:20.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13038" CreationDate="2014-10-10T12:29:18.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order for the yeast to be of much help to you, you want the beer to stay in the primary vessel.  If you are looking for the beer to clear from a visibility standpoint, you can start lowering the temp in the primary as well.  Moving to a secondary to do this is largely unnecessary.  But if you were really concerned you could move it off the yeast cake for an extended storage period.  Might as well package the beer at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't chill to quickly as that can cause shock to the yeast giving off more flavor compounds that you may or may not like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T12:29:18.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-09T20:22:53.443" Score="1" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are making a home made batch of huckleberry wine for halloween. We filled a Cleaned milk jug 3 quarters of the way with water, then we drained the juice, put it in the milk jug, and added a small package of yeast, and 1 cup of sugar. The Milk jug is 3 quarters of the way full still. It's been sitting for almost 4 weeks. We now have this weird film over the top layer of liquid. I don't have a picture, but it looks to me like a powdery white layer. I can see the little granules, that makes me think it looks like the yeast and sugar is what is on the top. Every one around me believes that it is mold. I want to find out if it is mold or not. The jug smells fine, the wine smells like it should at this stage, but every one keeps telling me it's mold on the top. Can anyone help answer this question for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Krystil Gentry" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T03:56:48.953" Title="Home made huckleberry wine" Tags="|food-safety|wine|fermentation|mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13039" CreationDate="2014-10-10T14:34:14.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;IPAs and other hop focused styles can be affected by the packaging.  It is reported that the type of bottle cap used will scavenge either malt or hop aromas, so you must use the correct one.  All bottle caps over time will let some oxidation occur, so that will kill an IPA.  Where inturn a can will not allow any oxidation of the beer, so the IPA stands up better.  Then conversely, beers that you want the oxidation to occur in like your RIS and English BWs do better in bottles.  For flip tops I would recommend a beer that will stand up to the oxidation if you have any plans just to have some and then put it back away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8314" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T14:34:14.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13039" CreationDate="2014-10-10T19:32:42.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A small consideration would be cost. Having your quaffing beer in champagne bottles with real cork and fancy cages would be a waste of time. But doing this to your special quad would be very acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T19:32:42.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-11T00:21:57.937" Score="0" ViewCount="852" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to aerate three gallons of wort using my aquarium pump and 2 micron stone. The pump is rated for 10 gallon tanks. Is this sufficient? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T06:45:55.313" Title="Aerating wort with an air pump. What's the proper gallon rating?" Tags="|aeration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13045" CreationDate="2014-10-12T06:25:25.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last time I heard someone tried to use an aquarium pump and a 2 micron stone it was a failure: the pump wasn't powerful enough. With a proper pump 30 min is said to be enough. &#xA;However, there was Beersmith podcast where some guys from Maltose Falcon club made a split batch with a few different aeration techniques, and aquarium pump rated below pure oxygen (obviously) and below shaking the fermenter vigorously for 1 minute (surprise!). Taken that pump+stone kit costs $60 here in Aus, I personally dropped the idea at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T06:25:25.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12891" CreationDate="2014-10-12T17:08:00.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my book &quot;Experimental Homebrewing&quot; we recommend blending the jar of PB2 with 6 oz. of 150 proof neutral grain spirits on brew day and storing it in a jar until the beer has fermented.  When primary has finished, add the PB slurry to a sanitized container and rack the beer onto it.  Let it age for a week, than rack and package the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T17:08:00.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12945" CreationDate="2014-10-12T18:22:47.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only ever used table sugar for priming my beer and never had an issue(40+ batches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are struggling with temperatures I find that the hot water cupboard normally has a good temperature to help them carbonate. Put a few in there and see if you can get the temperature raised a bit. Another place would be on top of the fridge because they give off a little heat too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T18:22:47.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12970" CreationDate="2014-10-12T19:29:40.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any leftover &quot;suds&quot; is just as alcoholic as what you've racked, but lacks carbonation.  You can drank it, but it will be a flat version of whatever will come out of the bottles/keg in a week or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I've put the left over liquid from beer brewing over ice to get an advanced taste of what my brew will be like, and to make sure it wasn't infected.  Its not as enjoyable as the finished product, but still drinkable in small quantities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8236" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T19:29:40.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13034" CreationDate="2014-10-12T19:46:43.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its almost certainly ok to leave it until Friday, my main concern would be the chance for infection from wild yeast.  I prefer aging in bottles to limit the chance of wild yeast infecting the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a fan of &quot;slap-packs&quot; which ensure that whatever yeast you pitch has already had several hours to grow, and will overwhelm any wild yeast that my have gotten in your fermenter.  In my experience, if you wait too long to bottle/keg, its easy for the yeast to either die (no carbonation) or be infected (bad flavor) either in the fermenter or during the bottling/kegging process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest bottling/kegging Friday, and allowing the cider to age in the bottles.  This allows the yeast that is currently there to continue dominating other wild yeast, which will prevent infection.  Unless you are aging in oak barrels, there is virtually no difference in aging in the primary fermenter and aging in bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8236" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T19:46:43.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13009" CreationDate="2014-10-12T19:50:36.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also try mixing up a batch of star-san and using that to scrub down the freezer.  I've had some success using star-san to clean up when my primary fermenter overflowed with blow-off.  Just be sure to rinse with water after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8236" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T19:50:36.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-13T03:53:15.867" Score="1" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using a plastic mini keg does the beer come out well and how many times can you re-use the plastic bottle's ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8195" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T16:04:28.627" Title="Are plastic mini kegs worth their while?" Tags="|beer|kegging|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13055" CreationDate="2014-10-13T17:19:49.030" Score="1" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going to make the recipe below today, doubling it. But I was wondering, are the raisins necessary? Doubling the recipe would mean 2 lbs raisins, and that seems excessive. Any advice on doubling this? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wine-making-guides.com/pomegranate_wine.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Link to recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;6 pomegranates&#xA;1 lb / 450 grams raisins&#xA;2 lbs / 900 grams granulated sugar&#xA;2 teaspoon acid blend&#xA;1 teaspoon pectic enzyme&#xA;Wine yeast&#xA;1 teaspoon yeast nutrient / energiser&#xA;1 campden tablet&#xA;8 pints / 1 gallon water&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T19:49:30.567" Title="Raisins in Wine?" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13054" CreationDate="2014-10-13T19:49:30.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Raisins are dried grapes, containing around 65 % sugar by weight, and all that grape flavor in concentrated and slightly modified form. They add sugar, body, and flavor to the wine. If a recipe calls for raisins, there may be varying reasons why. In this case, I would believe that the raisins are included for all three reasons listed here. Although I have never tried it, I am guessing pomegranates and sugar alone would leave a rather thin wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it may sound like lot much, recipes listing 1 lb per gallon of wine are quite common. Cutting down on the flavor-bearing ingredients is seldom a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, it is a good idea to use &quot;organic&quot; raisins, as they typically have no sulphites added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T19:49:30.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12959" CreationDate="2014-10-14T01:07:47.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This Wired article may help shed some light on wavelengths and bottle colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/2013/03/physics-and-green-beer-bottles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wired.com/2013/03/physics-and-green-beer-bottles/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Amendment 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Light in wavelengths of 350 nm to 520 nm (upper UV to mid-visible light) is known to cause skunky beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green bottles allow green light (520 nm to 550 nm) to pass through, whereas brown bottles (ranging between 580 nm and 700 nm) block wavelengths known to skunk beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iron and other metal oxides impart the brown tint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Amendment 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Incidentally, I just read that the &quot;thiol&quot; (organic compound containing sulfur) responsible for imparting the &quot;skunk&quot; is 3-methylbut-2-ene-1-thiol, a.k.a. &quot;skunky&quot; thiol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source: Chemistry - A European Journal, v7 n21 (November 5, 2001): 4553-4561&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8319" LastEditorUserId="8319" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T03:39:43.543" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T03:39:43.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13042" CreationDate="2014-10-14T03:56:48.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're describing is called a colony of cells called a &lt;strong&gt;pellicle&lt;/strong&gt;. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Pellicle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Home Brew Talk's wiki&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A pellicle is a lumpy, slimy white film that is formed by some strains&#xA;  of wild yeast, notably brettanomyces, during fermentation. A film on&#xA;  your beer in the fermenter or the bottle almost always indicates an&#xA;  infection, unless you have intentionally added brettanomyces to your&#xA;  beer. Follow the instructions in the brettanomyces page for cleaning&#xA;  and replacing your equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The presence of a pellicle is not &lt;em&gt;in itself&lt;/em&gt; a good or bad thing. It's more common in cider, wine &amp;amp; meads than in beer with the exception of beers with Brett yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One upside to having a pellicle is they can be anaerobic, which means they are air-tight and potentially protect your brew from a variety of environmental hazards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep sanitary work conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monitor your brews (Take measurements &amp;amp; notes!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smell your brew: if it smells moldy, it very well could be. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a turkey baster to draw a small sample and taste the liquid (a little won't kill you)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head to your local homebrew store to get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/equipment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some basic tools for experimenting&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep on trying stuff, and don't let an infection get you down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3373" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T03:56:48.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13053" CreationDate="2014-10-14T14:05:13.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the plastic mini keg has been properly cleaned and sanitized, the beer should come out well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know any specific number of times that you can reuse it. You may need to replace seals after a few reuses, and depending on availability, it may just be easier to buy a new plastic mini keg. The mini keg itself shouldn't wear out though assuming you can keep the seals in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8323" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T14:05:13.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12745" CreationDate="2014-10-14T14:13:28.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My main concern would be with what's in the extra air volume. If you don't purge it with CO2, a couple things could happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The O2 in room air could oxidize your beer causing off flavors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There could potentially be microbes in the air that could infect your beer and cause off flavors, although this is rather unlikely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purging with CO2 will remove the O2 to prevent oxidation and prevent aerobic microbes (requiring O2 to survive, main type to infect beer) from being able to survive. Even if you don't get all of the O2 out, CO2 is denser than O2 and will sink, creating a blanket of CO2 over the beer and effectively isolating it as long as your keg isn't shook up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8323" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-10-14T19:03:40.447" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T19:03:40.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13009" CreationDate="2014-10-14T14:17:29.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to use PBW (or the home made version) to clean hard surfaces like that. Dissolve in some hot water and scrub. It will remove most anything and is safe for brewing when rinsed properly. Follow up with a thorough rinsing and then use a no-rinse sanitizer to ensure it's all clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home made PBW recipes can be found online, but the base is Oxiclean Free (has to be the Free version that doesn't contain the dyes and perfumes) which can be obtained for about $8/3lbs. The secondary ingredient, which I haven't ever included, is a TSP substitute. For me, the Oxiclean Free works just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8323" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T14:17:29.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13034" CreationDate="2014-10-14T14:19:33.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can definitely leave it until Friday. However, I would bottle/keg it this weekend. Since you didn't state, I'm assuming you used unpasteurized cider with no preservatives. This could allow wild yeast to survive in your cider, possibly leading to spoilage if not cared for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8323" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T14:19:33.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11074" CreationDate="2014-10-14T14:25:25.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must judge progress based on a gravity reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you haven't checked the gravity yet, you don't know for sure that fermentation has finished. If you're saying it's finished because the airlock has stopped bubbling, that isn't always a reliable indicator of fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The airlock bubbling may be spaced minutes apart or not occurring at all, but it could still be fermenting. Depending on your primary fermentation vessel, it may not generate a good seal and the CO2 pressure generated by fermentation escaping via another route. This is especially common when using food-grade plastic fermentation pails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8323" LastEditorUserId="8259" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T00:56:18.970" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T00:56:18.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-14T19:23:39.210" Score="1" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was younger I lived in Missouri for a bit and I met a guy who ended up having me help him make &quot;shine&quot; (that's what he called it) in the woods fairly often - I guess you could say that I was just his assistant, but I assisted in every step. For me it was an adventure until I realized how stupid I was being. Anyways, we didn't keep things particularly clean and we never used any sanitizer that I ever saw. I didn't even know that you needed to use a sanitizer until I started reading about home distillation online recently. I also never saw any turbo yeast or anything like that. As far as I know, he had been doing it that way for years before I met him. How can it be that he/we was/were always successful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8324" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T16:57:40.120" Title="Why were we able to make alcohol with little cleanliness and no sanitizer?" Tags="|yeast|sanitizer|distillation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-10-15T20:46:05.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13063" CreationDate="2014-10-14T19:55:05.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turbo yeast is faster than beer yeast, so no bacteriae have much chances to proliferate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if there is a bacterial or wild yeast infection no one cares, as that fermented stuff is distilled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that matter, whisky distillers don't sterilize their wort before fermenting it, and some level of bacterial infection is considered necessary for the traditional taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T16:57:40.120" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T16:57:40.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-14T23:40:11.683" Score="0" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm moving, so I'm emptying my kegs (not down the drain!), and as I go I'm cleaning lines, emptying buckets, disassembling taps, etc.; and trying to figure out how best to store everything (assume it will be up to a year out of use).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are recommended methods of storing lines, kegs, carboys, etc so they will not be ruined by dust or mold and so they will be easy to clean when I'm ready to put them back in service?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6351" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T16:54:45.047" Title="Long term storage of equipment like buckets and kegs, lines, etc" Tags="|equipment|kegging|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13066" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14858" CreationDate="2014-10-15T02:01:55.857" Score="1" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wine making is not common in my country so it's difficult to buy wine ingredient especially Diammonium Phosphate (DAP) as yeast nutrient. After look in local shop, there's a shop selling Monoammonium Phosphate (MAP). Can we use it as yeast nutrient in wine making?&#xA;Is there any journal or research that claim MAP safe to use as yeast nutrient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8325" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T12:39:58.310" Title="Can we use monoammonium phospate (MAP) as yeast nutrient for wine making?" Tags="|wine|yeast-starters|yeast-cultures|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12029" CreationDate="2014-10-15T03:44:26.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting ABV at that level is possible through distillation process. Although it won't be classified as wine anymore if the ABV is 60%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/basics.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; you go to get started making wine. You can know how much yeast should be used at that tutorial as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can make wine using either brewer or baking yeast and it's drinkable, but you won't get optimal result if using baking yeast. Brewer yeast has been produced to get optimal result in wine making through many researches. Baking yeast can cause off-flavour to your wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some recipes using ginger. Check &lt;a href=&quot;http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/recipes.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8325" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T03:44:26.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13065" CreationDate="2014-10-15T12:55:20.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once items are empty, give them a thorough washing to remove any debris. After the washing, use a sanitizer to kill any microbes. Allow everything to thoroughly air dry (hoses may need to be blown out to dry). Once completely dry, cover items with plastic to keep dust off. Keep the items out of sunlight to protect them from UV rays. Prevent plastic items from freezing as it can make the plastic brittle. When you're ready to go again, you're equipment should be just like the last time you used it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8323" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T12:55:20.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13065" CreationDate="2014-10-15T16:54:45.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as everything gets cleaned and dried, there should be no special precautions necessary after that for storing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T16:54:45.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13063" CreationDate="2014-10-15T16:57:02.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You were distilling the product.  Sanitation isn't important because you aren't consuming any of the mold or bacteria that was in the wash.  Its contribution on flavor is debatable depending on how efficient the distillation was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T16:57:02.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13010" CreationDate="2014-10-16T15:06:34.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used Whirlfloc on hundreds of batches and never gotten either fishy or tea like notes.  I really don't think that's your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T15:06:34.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11413" CreationDate="2014-10-16T17:01:38.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the 3-part article below.  It details experiments using different amounts of Clarity Ferm on different styles of beer.  The findings were that Clarity Ferm breaks down gluten nearly completely - well below the &quot;gluten free&quot; maximums - in all beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/clarity-ferm-i&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://beerandwinejournal.com/clarity-ferm-i&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/clarity-ferm-ii&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://beerandwinejournal.com/clarity-ferm-ii&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/clarity-ferm-iii&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://beerandwinejournal.com/clarity-ferm-iii&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;I felt the need to update my answer.  Yes, Clarify Ferm breaks down gluten in beers such that it passes the ELISA test, the single test that determines how many ppm of gluten there is in a solution.  The thought is that &lt;em&gt;If Clarify Ferm breaks down gluten such that it's less than 20 ppm which is the threshold for &quot;gluten free&quot;, then it must be OK&lt;/em&gt;.  The fact is that the jury is still out whether breaking down gluten will actually result in a beer that does not cause harm to those that are gluten intolerant and, at best IMO, deciding &quot;gluten reduced&quot; beers are safe should be done on an individual basis.  When I was diagnosed with Celiac disease, the gastroenterologist told me that up to 10% of people who have Celiac disease have no symptoms and yet damage is still being done to their body when they consume gluten.  Because of this, I personally avoid &quot;gluten reduced&quot; beers (those brewed with Clarify Ferm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8330" LastEditorUserId="8330" LastEditDate="2017-07-20T15:34:20.897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T15:34:20.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11413" CreationDate="2014-10-16T19:24:22.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use this in every beer I make. My father is highly allergic to gluten and he is able to drink all of my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8172" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T19:24:22.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13075" CreationDate="2014-10-17T17:55:35.443" Score="1" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of the force carbonation guides that I have seen say to set the psi to 20 and leave it for 4-7 days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why don't we just set it to 40 (or higher) and wait 2-3.5 days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T18:39:05.030" Title="Why don't we force carbonate at a higher PSI" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13074" CreationDate="2014-10-17T18:02:47.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume higher pressures aren't used because of the greater possibility for overcarbonation.  If you carbonate a little too long at 20 PSI your beer will be less overcarbonated than if you overcarbonated at 40 PSI.  The room for error/deviation is greater at a lower PSI.  Perhaps there is a more scientific answer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8330" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T18:02:47.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13074" CreationDate="2014-10-17T18:39:05.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I usually set mine at 40psi for 24 hours, then 20psi for 24 hours, then 10psi for 24 hours, and fine tune from there. I usually serve at about 8psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, I pour myself a pint at each interval for quality control purposes. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T18:39:05.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13107" CreationDate="2014-10-17T19:57:32.777" Score="1" ViewCount="922" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well my beer is just under temperature so I know it will take a bit longer to ferment but I added my lager hops. Do you think this may effect my lager in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8333" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T22:52:58.613" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T21:19:30.930" Title="Will I damage my lager if I add lager hops too early?" Tags="|hops|lager|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13082" CreationDate="2014-10-18T19:28:09.713" Score="2" ViewCount="784" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would the result be of a brew done with say, brewing sugar (or equivalent), used as the only fermentable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite an ambiguous question I know - obviously flavour is dependant on many factors, but in general, would there beer any 'weird' flavours that would normally be masked/Non-existant in a standard brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about body? Head retention? How it pours? Etc. Etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any details welcome! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T17:26:32.183" Title="Using brewing sugar (or equivalent) as the only fermentable?" Tags="|hops|malt|sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13081" CreationDate="2014-10-18T19:44:24.797" Score="0" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the habit of turning off my co2 tank even when I have closed the check valve on my regulator and set the psi for the regulator to 0. Is this necessary for safety reasons? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going even further could I just close the check valve on the regulator and leave the regulator psi at 10 psi (for example)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The regulator and co2 tank could remain turned off for days if not weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the regulator I have&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U1BEn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is the regulator I have&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T20:17:05.237" Title="Turning off co2 tank necessary when regulator psi set to 0?" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13084" CreationDate="2014-10-18T20:02:50.470" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a standard manifold much like this one&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cHleR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A while back I thought of equalizing the pressure in two of my kegs by opening their check valves on the manifold. To test whether this would work I first opened one check valve &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; which was attached to a keg that was over carbed. I then made sure check valve &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; was not attached to anything and then I opened it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No gas came out of &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;! Is this normal? Maybe I am wrong and I should attach a low pressure gauge to check valve &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; to actually read the pressure coming out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T00:04:49.870" Title="Is it possible to use manifolds to transfer gas from one keg to another?" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13079" CreationDate="2014-10-18T20:17:05.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's necessary for safety reasons.  I do it just in case there's a leak in my system, so I don't accidentally drain the CO2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T20:17:05.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13078" CreationDate="2014-10-18T20:18:54.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because sugar is 100% fermentable, there will be essentially no body or head retention.  Flavor would range from non existent to a harsh alcohol flavor.  Without additional nutrients, fermentation will be problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T20:18:54.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13087" CreationDate="2014-10-18T22:08:54.750" Score="1" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to purchase a burner for all grain brewing. What are the qualities that I should look into for each product to compare them against each other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be brewing indoors in my apartment if that makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I assume the higher the BTUs, the better. The quicker it takes to boil a certain quantity of water, the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look for when purchasing a burner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T06:54:37.443" Title="What are the qualities to evaluate when purchasing a Burner for All-Grain brewing?" Tags="|all-grain|burner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13080" CreationDate="2014-10-19T00:04:49.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. That's normal operation for a check valve. They're designed to let gas flow only in one direction -- from the regulator to the keg. The #1 check valve will not allow gas to flow from the keg into the manifold, which is why no gas flowed from #2 valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T00:04:49.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-19T14:45:10.190" Score="3" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a beer that, for aesthetic reasons, I'd like to make &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; hazy. I've used torrified wheat in the mash, and tried adding flour to the boil. Those do make the beer hazy at first, but it tends to settle after a week or two in keg. Is there any way to obtain a more stable haziness? I've seen pectin mentioned as a source of hard-to-get-rid-of haze, but there's no fruit in the recipe, and I'm not sure how much powdered pectin I'd have to add to get haze without getting globs of jelly as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it matters, I do all-grain brewing, and keg with forced carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7961" LastEditorUserId="1163" LastEditDate="2017-12-08T18:39:31.797" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T18:39:31.797" Title="How to encourage haze?" Tags="|clarity|cloudy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13078" CreationDate="2014-10-19T14:47:48.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sugar doesn't contain the nutrients yeast need to reproduce properly. It's likely that you'd end up with a stuck fermentation, and off-tastes (notably cidery, from acetaldehyde). As Denny mentioned, that would be pretty much the only taste in there, so it would likely be quite unpleasant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7961" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T14:47:48.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13083" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:09:19.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whoof... I would not recommend doing a full boil inside an apartment if you can possibly avoid it. You're basically putting a gallon or two worth of water into the &lt;em&gt;air&lt;/em&gt;. Things will get muggy quite quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presuming you can't get a natural gas hookup, you'll be restricted to butane burners; propane gives off too much carbon monoxide. Even with a butane burner, I'd advise you to buy a CO detector if you don't already have one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As an alternative, you should consider electric heating elements. Personally the idea of doing the boil in a plastic container weirds me out, but I know a lot of people use that approach, and there's a definite convenience advantage.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, yeah, the only real issue is BTUs. The only other thing I'd pay much attention to when buying a burner is windproofing, and of course that won't be an issue indoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7961" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:09:19.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13078" CreationDate="2014-10-19T17:26:32.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With just sugar, you wouldn't be making beer, since malted grain is a key ingredient. It would be closer to mead, and like mead, the resulting drink would have no head since that's created by protein, which there is none in sugar. There would also be no residual sweetness or any other flavoring other than the alcohol, so it would taste pretty bad. You can add yeast nutrients just as when making mead to provide the free-amino nitrogen and other trace elements required to reduce any fermentation off flavors, but due to the lack of any real flavor in the ingredients and residual sweetness it would not taste good if you let it ferment out completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Norway, and I believe in most of Scandinavia, some people make a low-alcohol drink that is water, sugar, yeast and optionally a little flavoring, such as a few raisins or some apple juice. This is called sukkerøl - sugarbeer. The trick with this is to let it ferment at room temperature just enough to produce the carbon dioxide required, and then the beers are stored in a cool cellar/fridge to almost halt fermentation. By stopping the fermentation early, there is still some unfermented sugar, giving some sweetness to the beer. It's important to chill the beers after a couple of days of fermentation or all the sugar will ferment out, producing a bitter, harsh tasting drink, and also the risk of bottle explosions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T17:26:32.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13083" CreationDate="2014-10-19T17:47:26.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;BTUs relate to fuel consumption, not necessarily the &quot;power&quot; of the burner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T17:47:26.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12814" CreationDate="2014-10-20T04:37:48.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the tip that most of heat loss comes from the lid and opening it.  I pushed a meat thermometer through the side of my tun near the drain valve this let's me see the temp without opening. If you don't trust the seal (hasn't failed me yet) you can buy a threaded bulkhead style one.  I also throw a thick old blanket over the whole cooler and for extra insulation.  I don't recommend the spray foam into the lid didn't seem to help and just made an ugly mess on mine. Blanket was much better! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8341" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T17:04:38.360" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T17:04:38.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13085" CreationDate="2014-10-20T06:48:19.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low flocculating yeast (like weiss/witbier) should get you the required look. The rest that you mention should work. I have not tried to make a hazy beer, so I can't offer any more assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T06:48:19.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13083" CreationDate="2014-10-20T06:54:37.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, BTUs are your primary issues. &quot;Turkey Fryers&quot; are very popular and kick out enough power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side concerns would be storage. Gas bottles, burners and pots take up a LOT of space. Keep that in mind then purchasing the items. Gas bottles should not be stored indoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please follow COMMON SENSE and your local rules and regulations regarding the use of gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side Note: Make friends with someone who stays on the ground. Brew on their patio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T06:54:37.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13085" CreationDate="2014-10-20T08:31:08.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess it depends upon how much haze you are looking for. While most brewers spend their energies trying to remove haze, you could simply leave out all those steps that go towards reducing haze:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use water with low hardness (has low colloidal stability)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;avoid protein rests in the mash to maintain as much protein as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a significant portion of malted or flaked wheat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leave out calcium in the mash - calcium helps reduce hazes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leave out finings in the boil (whirlfloc/irish moss)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chill slowly (avoiding the cold break)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;copper at &gt;1mg/l (1ppm) causes irreversible haze&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;serve chilled to promote a chill haze&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewrats.org/go/default/brewing-info/beer-haze/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Haze&lt;/a&gt; for more details on hazes, and colloidal stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying some of these omissions may have side-effects, since most of these steps are typically beneficial for the beer, not just because they reduce haziness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T08:31:08.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13095" CreationDate="2014-10-20T16:01:17.017" Score="3" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does temperature affect the oxidation of a beer ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a beer at a high temperature, let's say 30C (86F), more susceptible to oxidation that one in low temperature near 0C (32F) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T04:29:57.037" Title="Effect of temperatures over beer oxidation" Tags="|hops|temperature|oxidation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13094" CreationDate="2014-10-20T17:02:29.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been said that for every 10C of temperature increase the oxidation rate roughly doubles.  So yes temperature does increase oxidation rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general increases in heat increase all chemical reactions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T17:02:29.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13007" CreationDate="2014-10-20T19:52:00.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; tank and ball lock adapter, I'd suggest using that and &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0064OKADS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Carbonater&lt;/a&gt;.  I've seen the kind of mess that can be created when using non-water liquids in a soda stream, it could potentially totally ruin the soda stream, aside from getting foamy sticky beer/grape juice/etc everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely wait the recommended time so that the carbonation can set in properly, otherwise it will be very undercarbed, even if using 30+ PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8343" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T19:52:00.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13007" CreationDate="2014-10-20T20:46:39.500" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No personal experience, but I have heard that while this is not what the sodastream is for (instructions say to ONLY carbonate water), it can be done with success.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method is as follows:  get the beer/cider into the soda stream bottle.  Get as cold as possible (like 32*F).  Attach to Soda Stream.  Use ONE 2-second pull of the lever (as opposed to multiple short pulls as with water).  Let it sit for 30-90 seconds.  Carefully remove, and be ready to reattach if it starts foaming (at least the mess will be in your sodastream CO2 nozzle and not throughout your kitchen.  Pour and enjoy.  Throughout the process, be prepared to ruin the soda stream and/or disassemble if need be.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not exactly a precise way to carbonate, and the CO2 bubbles do not hydrolyze (which DOES happen if you carb slowly in a Corny keg and create a finer mouthfeel), but could be done in a pinch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T20:46:39.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13094" CreationDate="2014-10-21T04:29:57.037" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also think that fluctuation in temperature may be a bigger cause of oxidation than just one constant high temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory; when it is hot the CO2 pressure builds up (expansion caused by heat) and the CO2 escapes from the bottle. When the bottle cools again, the Co2 contracts and the &quot;vacuum&quot; that forms is filled with air from the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to store beer cold, or at least cool. Most important is that it must be stored in a dark place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T04:29:57.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-21T15:20:22.733" Score="0" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are looking for the amount of potassium sorbate required for the shelf life of sparkling apple cider.  We have a local brewery carbinating it for us. &#xA;We are filtering it with a maple syrup plate press....&#xA;We are looking to bottle thursday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8349" LastEditorUserId="8151" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T13:23:17.933" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T14:09:47.677" Title="Making non-alcoholic sparkling cider" Tags="|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3598" CreationDate="2014-10-21T15:34:13.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I read somewhere on homebrew SE that one could use standard bread yeast as a ginger plant starter. My ginger beer yeast had died, so I thought I'd give that a try ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results (for other people's benefit) was quite a nice Ginger Beer, but it took a &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; time to complete the fermentation. it was suggested in the &quot;kit&quot; that I got, that 7-10 days fermentation in the bottle would finish the ginger beer. But the bread yeast version has produced a lot of gas - I relieve the pressue twice weekly - and the liquid has taken a long time to ferment. I'm now in my 5th week and it is still producing gas, but finally turning alcoholic!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8143" LastEditorUserId="8143" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T15:44:36.933" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T15:44:36.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-21T17:09:13.193" Score="0" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a 5 gallon metal can (aluminum, galvanized, etc) to store drinking water. Old milk cans will be just fine. Is there a store which sells these kind of things? I live in Irvine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8350" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T02:03:42.570" Title="5 Gallon Metal Can" Tags="|water|bottle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13007" CreationDate="2014-10-21T18:04:05.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried this. My soda stream is still sticky because of it. It is not advised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8346" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T18:04:05.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13099" CreationDate="2014-10-21T18:37:04.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fresh cider that is not pasteurized, treated with UV light, or another sterilization method can have wild yeast and bacteria present. These microbes can spoil your cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potassium sorbate is used to prevent yeast from reproducing. By itself, it does not kill yeast or bacteria. Potassium metabisulfite should be used in addition to produce a stable cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dosages vary, but typically 1 tsp of potassium sorbate and 1/2 tsp of potassium metabisulfite per 5 gallons is sufficient. Some recommendations call for 1-1/2 tsp potassium sorbate and 2/3 tsp potassium metabisulfite per 5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Review the following links for more explanation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?url=http://winemakersacademy.com/potassium-sorbate-wine-making/&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;frm=1&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;sa=U&amp;amp;ei=e6dGVLr-G8iPsQS_nYKACw&amp;amp;ved=0CBYQFjAA&amp;amp;sig2=k8eXqIS94o-_i5tVc9sZDg&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGQFiBgmx-GCobI2l8uxoJUkq1qIQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Winemaker's Academy - Potassium Sorbate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?url=http://winemakersacademy.com/potassium-metabisulfite-wine/&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;frm=1&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;sa=U&amp;amp;ei=e6dGVLr-G8iPsQS_nYKACw&amp;amp;ved=0CBwQFjAB&amp;amp;sig2=sz5FoBgYQLZjWhfZKuVThA&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGKmt9lRonb15LLfSoYXG8-TqPlYA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Winemaker's Academy - Metabisulphite&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8323" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T14:09:47.677" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T14:09:47.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-21T19:05:51.920" Score="0" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to make my first Saison (all grain). This will be the first beer I've made that uses any kind of spice. The recipe I'm using is for a 5g batch. I'll be making a 20g batch. The 5g recipe calls for adding 1oz of Bitter Orange. If I was just scaling the recipe up linearly I'd use 4oz. My gut tells me this might be too much. Should I follow my gut and use only 2oz or should I go with what the recipe calls for?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8351" LastEditorUserId="8351" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T19:18:48.290" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T16:16:28.547" Title="Bitter orange and scaling" Tags="|flavor|recipe-scaling|spices|saison|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13077" CreationDate="2014-10-21T19:34:17.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to make an assumption that the word lager on your hop sachet meant in the sense of storing for a period of time, like the German word that &quot;lager&quot; is derived from. I refer to that as dry hopping. So, you think you've added your dry hops a little too early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There probably wont be a huge problem with your beer. If your fermentation was almost done, you're better off. Two issues are infection risk and perhaps lessened hop aroma. Because hops are not sterile, adding them during rapid fermentation can increase risk of infection. Secondly, hop aroma can be released with the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; of heavy fermentation, making your final product seem less hoppy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;: You're probably fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further reading on dry hopping &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/issue/item/568-dry-hopping-for-great-aroma&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8151" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T19:34:17.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13077" CreationDate="2014-10-21T21:19:30.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for clarification in the comments. The upshot is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fermentation temps externally are 16-17c, although instructions say 20-25c&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hop pellets were added at day 10 to the fermentor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, this isn't a true lager kit that you have. Lager is made with a different species of yeast compared to Ales, one that ferments typically in the 5-12&amp;deg;C range, while ales ferment in the 14-25&amp;deg;C range. From the temperature guidelines of 20-25&amp;deg;C I can tell you with confidence that what you have in the pack is an ale yeast, not a lager yeast. This is very common with so-called &quot;lager&quot; beer kits - they ship a regular ale yeast to try to make it easier for the brewer so they don't have to chill the beer. As a result, the beer is fruitier and lacks the crispness of a true lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, by reducing the temperature as you did, you reduce the fruitiness of the beer and other possible off-flavors, so you did yourself a favour with the lower temps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lower temperature has no bearing on the hops you added, which are unaffected by a few degrees difference temperature. The hops added to the fermentor will give your beer a stronger hop aroma and flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, this beer will probably be better than if you followed the instructions exactly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T21:19:30.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13104" CreationDate="2014-10-21T22:24:50.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be too much, but it depends what it's playing against. If you're also scaling a certain amount of residual sugar, such as from caramel malts, then it could be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T22:24:50.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13104" CreationDate="2014-10-22T15:35:30.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're scaling everything else linearly, you want to do the same with the orange peel, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T15:35:30.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="524" CreationDate="2014-10-22T18:47:43.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heather has been used in a variety of beers; even one without any hops at all in the Iron Brewer contest in Toronto 2014. It really is interesting and the amount of heather needs to be tuned-in due to its intense taste. A combination of hops and heather tasted - as far as I could say - not as good, or let me say more unexpected.&#xA;Heather might serve as an alternative, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8354" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T10:56:47.083" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T10:56:47.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-23T10:55:15.337" Score="0" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently brewing my own beer and its going good. For my next batch I want to make something like a Coors Light or even something that tastes like Fosters or Carlsberg. If anyone could help it would be much appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8333" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T10:58:51.100" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T11:03:18.480" Title="anyone know where good tutorials are for starting to brew lager" Tags="|yeast|water|lager|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13113" CreationDate="2014-10-23T11:03:18.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, you need to start preparing for temp controlled fermentation as well as good yeast management practices.  That includes starters and learning to pitch more yeast that you would for a normal ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good alternative to lager brewing is to start with styles like Kolsch or American Cream Ale.  These beers usually are light in color and flavor and focus on clean fermenting ale strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381829&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Greg Noonan's New Brewing Lager Book&lt;/a&gt;. It give great insight into the mechanics of lager brewing, lager yeast and history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T11:03:18.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15319" CreationDate="2014-10-23T11:07:34.877" Score="4" ViewCount="1116" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used the Cream Ale blend from WhiteLabs?  I used it recently and am surprised at the lack of flocculation.  The beer has been in a cold keg for a month and its still fairly cloudy.  Was just wondering what yeast strains may be contributing to the lack of flocculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I normally brew this beer with US05 or WLP001 it would normally have cleared by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T15:11:03.440" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T15:51:51.753" Title="What yeast is in White Labs WLP080 Cream Ale Blend?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-23T23:24:09.607" Score="4" ViewCount="8846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been making mead for close to 5 years now. I do my mead a little different than most. I use Safale US-05 dry ale yeast. I let it ferment for 3 weeks then I transfer out of the fermenting bucket. I don't let it set. I drink it right away, and its delicious. I have heard from a few people that I should be using champagne yeast, and let it rest for close to 6 months. I like the taste, alcohol level, and speed of my yeast. I was just wondering if I am missing out on anything by not using a different yeast. Any thoughts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8362" LastEditorUserId="8362" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T23:36:49.627" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T23:01:49.487" Title="Best yeast for Mead" Tags="|yeast|mead|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13116" CreationDate="2014-10-24T15:28:45.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it tastes good to you, don't change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to experiment, there are yeasts recommended for mead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EC-1118 and D-47 are dry yeasts that are commonly recommended. EC-1118 will ferment rather dry with a higher ABV. D-47 will leave slightly more residual sugar and a lower ABV than EC-1118. Both should produce more alcohol than US-05. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WLP720 and Wyeast 4184 are both liquid yeast recommended for mead. I like the flavor of WLP720. It's an easy fermenter and doesn't finish too dry. Wyeast 4184 has issues with finishing. It gave me a stuck fermentation the last time I tried it. I even had nutrient and energizer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If US-05 works for you, then keep using it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8323" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T15:28:45.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13116" CreationDate="2014-10-24T17:30:24.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;71B is another very popular choice. I tend to use that or D47 for most of my meads, but there are a ton of options -- essentially any wine yeast will work, as will most ale yeasts (although they don't have the same alcohol tolerance and can introduce more obvious fermentation character to the mead). Never tried a lager yeast...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what yeast you use, be sure to do a staggered nutrient addition (SNA) for every mead. Make a blend of 1 tsp. Fermaid-K and 2 tsp. of DAP (diammonium phosphate), and then add to the mead as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.75 tsp. when making the must&#xA;.75 tsp. 24 hours after fermentation begins&#xA;.75 tsp. 48 hours after fermentation begins&#xA;.75 tsp. when 30% of the sugar has been fermented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, stir the mead at least twice a day (if not three times a day) for the first six or seven days to aerate the must but more importantly to degass CO2 buildup in solution. Be careful of course, to stir &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; slowly at first to keep foaming to a minimum, otherwise you’ll end up with a mess! Do not stir at all once one third-to-one-half of the sugar has been fermented, at that point you do not want any additional oxygen contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8364" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T17:30:24.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-24T18:51:29.777" Score="1" ViewCount="2924" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about brewing ginger beer for a bar I work at. This means it would be in a keg on a tap. I would like to ferment the ginger beer instead of pumping in CO2 but am unsure how to go about it. I've done quite a bit of research but the main question I can't find an answer to is how can I safely store my ginger beer in a keg after fermentation has provided enough carbonation without it continuing to ferment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being that we haven't done this yet we are not sure how quickly it will move so I would like to avoid any bursting, leakage, or getting too dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to completely halt fermentation? Not just pause or slow down but entirely stop?&#xA;I've also read about fermenting ginger beer using the probiotics already present in ginger but not a lot of info on how it may differ in this regard. May this technique provide better results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help. All suggestions or information is greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8365" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T18:29:49.397" Title="What is the best way to stop fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|keg|ginger-beer|ginger|commercial|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11413" CreationDate="2014-10-24T19:23:57.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use it in every batch. Several local breweries in this area, including a rather large one (Yards) use it as well. Word need to be spread about this fantastic product, as it opens the door for most if not all Celiacs to be able to consume beer again, and to rid us of the awful garbage that is sorghum-based gluten-free &quot;beer&quot; (quotes intentional).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the FDA has (finally!) adopted the 20ppm threshold for gluten-free labeling, bringing us in line with Europe and most of the rest of the world. The TTB has not, and currently still insists that to be labelled gluten-free the beer must be made with 100% GF ingredients. Efforts are underway to get them to revise their restrictions to be inline with the FDA, but since this is the gub'mint we're talking about it's not likely to be an expedient process.  :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8364" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T19:23:57.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13119" CreationDate="2014-10-24T19:57:37.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If primary fermentation is complete, adding priming sugar only allows the wort to consume the newly added sugar; it doesn't continue to ferment afterward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a 5gal corny keg, 4 oz of corn sugar will be sufficient. You must leave it at room temp (just like a bottle) for a couple of weeks. It should carbonate just fine. (Akin to cask conditioning). You can then add CO2 to maintain carb (like a serving pressure of 5 - 10psi). Unless you add some huge amount of sugar, the keg will be fine (they can handle more psi than a bottle). Ideally, if you carbonate at your house, then move it to the bar, let it sit for a couple of days, but that's primarily since the move will kick up trub from keg-carbing. It's a bit easier to control a force carb, but carbing with priming sugar works just fine in a keg, though you typically need a little less (4oz instead of 5oz for a 5 gallon batch, should scale). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you trying to stop a fermentation early, where it would normally continue to ferment if left alone, then cooling it or using potassium sulfite combined with potassium sorbate accomplishes this, but with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campden_tablet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;postassium sulfite/metabisulfite&lt;/a&gt; alone, if returned to room temp, the yeast could overcome it and start to ferment. However, just cooling it will halt most yeasts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T19:55:14.067" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T19:55:14.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3293" CreationDate="2014-10-24T20:41:35.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the case of a high gravity beer, if the initial yeast is limited by the alcohol content from otherwise consuming consumable sugars, pitching any yeast with a higher alcohol tolerance than the initial yeast would &quot;dry it out&quot; further by consuming any sugars left after the environment became intolerable for the initial yeast. This is why this practice is used sometimes with a very high gravity beer, where it has stalled at a higher gravity than desired. Baka is correct however, in that it isn't going to consume otherwise non-consumable sugars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T20:41:35.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13125" CreationDate="2014-10-25T04:06:24.863" Score="2" ViewCount="942" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case it's relevant, here is the recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just finished my first batch of beer. It has a very... bad, some might egg (?) smell to it. I'm wondering if there's any point to age it or just toss it and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1.25 kg of wheat malt&#xA;1.25 kg of pilsener malt&#xA;Mash at 67°C for 60 min&#xA;0.4 oz Hallertau Hops for 60 min&#xA;Ferment with Wyeast 3068 weihenstephan&#xA;&#xA;OG 1.052&#xA;FG 1.013&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bV3k1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;suspiciously bad looking and smelling batch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8144" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2014-11-15T18:32:16.903" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T18:32:16.903" Title="Just finished fermenting my first batch beer. Does this look... normal?" Tags="|beer|wheat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-25T10:22:35.860" Score="0" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew using NA Bud.Primary fermentation in bin then secondary in primed bottles that beer originated from.bottling is done after about 1 week then left for three weeks to clear.only slight problem is sediment in bottom of bottles.beer has to be put in glass or else drinking yeasty beer. Ihave heard of using Gelatin to solidify sediment but have never tried it.&#xA;Can anyone give advice on how to use it?I.E. Preparation of Gelatin,when to add it and will it affect carbonation??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kevin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8366" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T07:00:54.987" Title="solidifying yeast in bottles" Tags="|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13123" CreationDate="2014-10-25T15:43:52.753" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like what you're smelling is some sort of sulfur compound.  That's pretty common with that particular strain of yeast.  It will eventually age out.  How long ago did you brew the beer?  What temp did it ferment at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-10-25T15:43:52.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-25T18:49:13.030" Score="1" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a Mr. Beer kit two times now with acceptable success. I want to move to the next level. Can someone tell me the best kit to buy and a good book for starting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8368" LastEditorUserId="8377" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T17:03:04.097" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T17:03:04.097" Title="How should I upgrade equipment from a Mr. Beer kit?" Tags="|beer|equipment|brewing|kits|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13101" CreationDate="2014-10-26T00:37:55.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Homebrewers typically use 5g Stainless Steel Cornelius kegs to store beer in. A lot of homebrew stores carry them, they are also known as used Pepsi or Coke kegs. The kegs would have to be pressurized for storing water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6700" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T00:37:55.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13130" CreationDate="2014-10-26T01:52:04.433" Score="0" ViewCount="1398" Body="&lt;p&gt;My apartment has 120V outlets and my landlord probably won't install a 240v outlet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/2967-induction-heat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on induction heating states that a 120v delivers a maximum of 2000 watts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all of the induction cooktops on Amazon are 1800 watts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the largest size batch I can boil with a 120v outlet on an induction outlet? I would like to purchase a 15gallon kettle for 10 gallon batches, but this might be a deal breaker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit - I have not all-grain brewed before, but my understanding is that for a 5 gallon batch, 6.5 gallons of wort are required due to evaporation and trub. Therefore, what is the largest amount of wort that can be boiled with an induction cooktop on a 120v outlet?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-10-26T02:50:08.883" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T18:48:02.367" Title="What is the largest size batch that can be boiled with an Induction cooktop on a 120v outlet?" Tags="|induction-heating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13135" CreationDate="2014-10-26T02:43:56.487" Score="1" ViewCount="2955" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I want to brew a 5 gallon batch, how large of a kettle do I need to do so comfortably?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about 10 gallons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T16:04:37.110" Title="How large of a Kettle to brew 5 gallon and 10 gallon batches? (All Grain)" Tags="|all-grain|kettle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13128" CreationDate="2014-10-26T06:38:06.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your 120V outlet is likely on a 15-amp circuit, giving you only 1800 watts of power. The good news is that induction systems direct most of the heat where it can do good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 watt (per hour) is 3,600 joules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wort has a specific heat of approximately 3.97 J/(g°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes 7,952,382.36 Joules to heat 6.5 gallons (24,700 ml or 24,700 g) water from 18°C to 100°C (= 3.97 * 78 * 24,700). Or 2,209 watts per hour.  In other words, it would take 1.23 hours (1:15 hours) on that 1,800 watt induction burner to bring room temp water to just below boiling. This doesn't account for any loss of heat due to radiation of heat. And it assumes 100% efficiency, which is unrealistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The enthalpy of vaporization of water is 2,260 J/g, or 0.63 watts (per hour). Because not all of your wort is evaporating at once, this adds a negligible work load to your boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to put that all together, it should take over 1:15 hours (maybe 1:30 hours) to get 6.5 gallons of wort to a boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/strong&gt; 6.5 gallons would probably take around 1:30 hours to get to a boil on an 1800w induction burner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T06:38:06.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13136" CreationDate="2014-10-26T06:39:28.560" Score="0" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I simply plug a pre-assembled heating element, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-element-kits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like this one from the Electric Brewery&lt;/a&gt;, into a 120v outlet (given I have no 240v outlet) and then unplug it after the boil is complete?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am reading about a lot of electrical work that is required for safety reasons in regards to heating elements but I can't distinguish if that electrical work is needed if I am building the heating element myself or if it is needed regardless if someone else builds it for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notably, I am in an apartment and cannot make any modifications to the electrical system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T17:43:06.703" Title="Is there any electrical work required for using a pre-assembled heating element?" Tags="|boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13129" CreationDate="2014-10-26T06:45:19.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it depends on the losses you assume along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 5 gallons, if you assume a trub loss of 0.5 gallons, and evaporation loss of 1.0 gallon, then you would need 6.5 gallons of wort to get 5 gallons into a fermenter. If you follow the oft-quoted rule of thumb that you want minimum headspace in your kettle equal to one-third of your boil volume, that means the minimum kettle size is around 8-2/3 gallons. I have heard of people using 8-gallon kettles. I recommend more like 10-gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 10 gallons, I suppose you could double that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T06:45:19.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13126" CreationDate="2014-10-26T06:51:25.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;John Palmer's &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt; or Charlie Papazian's New Complete Joy of Homebrewing are good beginner books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of equipment, I suggest using the inventory from the lowest-tier kit sold by Midwest Supplies (currently $70) as a minimal shopping list, plus a 5-gallon kettle, plus a no-rinse sanitizer such as Star-San or Iodophor, and plus a percarbonate-based, non-perfumed, no-dye cleaner such as PBW or OxyClean &lt;em&gt;Free&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T06:51:25.123" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13124" CreationDate="2014-10-26T07:00:54.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gelatin will help clear beer, but will not reduce or help pack down yeast sediment in bottles. To do that, you need to allow the yeast to settle longer or in colder conditions (fridge), or both. But you will not be able to drink from a bottle without yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fine with gelatin to make your beer clear, you should do it in the fermenter. Mix 1 tsp. of gelatin in 2/3 Cup water in a microwave-safe glass cup. Heat it 15-20 seconds at a time, to get it to 155°F. You will see the gelatin &quot;bloom&quot; and dissolve. Give the mixture one more stir and pour it into your beer in the fermenter. It works better if you do this while cold crashing. Give it about 2 days to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T07:00:54.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13129" CreationDate="2014-10-26T16:04:37.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my own experience, an 8 gal. kettle will barely work for a 5 gal. batch.  Even at that, you might have to boil a concentrated wort and add top up water after the boil.  Remember that in addition to accounting for trub and evaporation, you also need some headroom in there to start with.  I wouldn't recommend anything less than 15 gal. for a 10 gal. batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T16:04:37.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13131" CreationDate="2014-10-26T17:04:20.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming it was mounted appropriately in the kettle, and assuming that you changed the connector from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NEMA L6-30 to the NEMA 5-15&lt;/a&gt; as used for 120V outlets in the US, yes, you could simply plug it directly into the outlet, and it would run at 100% power.  Note that if it's a 240V heating element rated for X Watts, you're only going to get X/4 watts out of it at 120V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no &quot;building&quot; of the heating element; it's literally just a piece of metal with places to connect wires to, a big resistor. But it does need to be mounted correctly to prevent liquid from getting to those connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the amount of power you can get out of residential 120V, you probably do want to run the element at &quot;full power&quot; for the whole boil, so you can get away with just plugging it into the wall. But, the electric brewery setup does assume that you're going to run the boil-kettle element at less than full-time. You don't need as much energy to maintain a boil as to raise to boiling temps. They accomplish this, of course, with a PID controller and SSR to switch the element on and off periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want something you can throw into the kettle, look into &quot;bucket heaters&quot;, which are basically the same, but designed A/ to run on 120V and B/ to be submerged in liquid. You could even use 2 at a time, if you can find multiple outlets close enough to the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T17:04:20.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13138" CreationDate="2014-10-26T17:15:02.280" Score="0" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm trying to brew a Mexican lager today. What I've done is taken Palmer's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter19-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cold But Not Baroque&lt;/a&gt; recipe and tweaked it a bit. However, instead of using Bohemian lager yeast, as the recipe calls for, I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp940-mexican-lager-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WLP940&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Palmer's recipe calls for fermenting at 45°F (and then secondary at 35°F). However, according to White Labs, the optimum fermentation temperature is between 50°F and 55°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be following the recipe's temperature or the yeast's optimum temperature? What about secondary fermentation temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3448" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T11:04:46.720" Title="Which temperature do I ferment at: the recipe's temp or the yeast's recommended temp?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|lager|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13137" CreationDate="2014-10-26T17:18:11.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those temps are close enough together that it really doesn't make much difference which you choose.  If I had to choose, though, I'd go with the recipe.  The temps recommended by yeast manufacturers are very approximate and often too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T17:18:11.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-26T22:29:22.480" Score="1" ViewCount="2167" Body="&lt;p&gt;my 7th batch is in first fermentation and I just tasted it after taking a gravity reading. It started at 1.092 and it's now 1.022 after 9 days. I noticed a strong cherry/cough syrup off flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what can cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the following recipe: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat/recipes/ale/scottish/recipes/10.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat/recipes/ale/scottish/recipes/10.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3733" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T16:40:20.037" Title="Cherry/Cough syrup off flavor" Tags="|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13142" CreationDate="2014-10-26T23:18:33.933" Score="1" ViewCount="773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Vietnam and there's a dearth of good beer. So I cobbled together some supplies and tried my first homebrew yesterday. I had the guidance of an expert so I feel it went really well, but my mentor wasn't there for the yeast pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased the Wyeast Direct Pitch Activator a few weeks ago and had a friend bring it here. I'm worried that between the week he hauled it around the US and 16 hour flight from San Francisco to Hong Kong it may have been killed. It can get quite cold in the aircraft luggage hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cracked the smack pack a good 6 hours before pitching. The yeast nutrient did in fact break. It was kept at room temperature after smacking. And I pitched it about 10 hours ago 75 degrees was the wort temperature and 72 for the room. I'm not seeing any signs of fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much longer should I wait to see any fermentation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I don't see any at this point, what should I do? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some dry ale yeast I can throw in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8360" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T14:11:33.663" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T20:16:55.890" Title="International flight kill my yeast?" Tags="|fermentation|wyeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13141" CreationDate="2014-10-27T14:11:21.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The smack pack should have inflated in the six hours between breaking the nutrient seal and opening it. If it didn't, that's an indication that the yeast are not working at full strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't see any fermentation 48 hours after pitching, the yeast has almost certainly failed. Your beer is at the greatest risk for infection before the yeast is pitched. If there's any question about your sanitization procedures, it might be unwise to wait more than 24 hours before taking action. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've determined that the first yeast culture has failed, rehydrate the dry yeast, following the instructions on the package, and pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T20:16:55.890" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T20:16:55.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13140" CreationDate="2014-10-27T15:23:44.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refer to John Palmer's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt; chapter on off flavors in beer. He discusses various off flavors that are common, what causes them, and possible corrections so you don't run into the same issues in future batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the fruity flavor, you may have ester or chlorophenol issues. The esters can produce the fruity flavors and typically result from fermenting at too high of a temperature. The first 24-48 hours play a big role in the esters. If you pitched when the wort was too warm, you may see this as a result. The chlorophenol issues arise mainly when bleach is used as a sanitizer and not rinsed thoroughly. If you didn't use bleach, this is likely not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8323" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T15:23:44.717" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5906" CreationDate="2014-10-27T15:38:45.960" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a can of extract that is pre hopped you do not want to boil it or it will destroy the hops.  If you do boil it you'll need to add some fresh hops.  But boiling serves no purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8373" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T15:38:45.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13126" CreationDate="2014-10-27T16:07:35.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to add my vote for Charlie Papazian's New Complete Joy of Homebrewing.  I started with it, and have gotten 5 of my friends into the hobby with just that book.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally started by getting the book, and then reading the first third of it. This covers starting out, extract brewing, and how to do an extract or kit brew from brew day to bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also has a helpful shopping list if you want to know the various items that may come in handy.  if shopping piece by piece isn't your style I would recommend a good starter kit off of any of the major internet home brewing stores.  My preferred shop is Northern Brewer because we're a 1 day UPS run from Minneapolis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have an Essentials kit that comes with plastic buckets for roughly $80.  I like bottling from my plastic bottling bucket, but I opted to get glass carboys for fermenting.  Northern Brewer has a pretty decent deal on their deluxe starter kit, that comes with two glass carboys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8374" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T16:07:35.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13126" CreationDate="2014-10-27T17:09:31.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Step up to larger kits like Coopers or Muntons.  Then you can experiment with steeping specialty grains and adding hop to enhance flavor as well as adding some dry malt extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8373" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T17:09:31.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13137" CreationDate="2014-10-28T20:34:32.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just kicked a keg of Helles fermented with WLP940, great yeast! I pitched at 46°F and let it ramp up to 48°F for primary. I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/lager-method&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this quick lager method&lt;/a&gt; and the beer was fantastic just 3 weeks later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8378" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-10-29T11:04:46.720" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T11:04:46.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-28T22:58:57.877" Score="6" ViewCount="6539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a batch of wheat beer on the go at the moment and I'm wondering which sugar to use as priming sugar? In my local shop the priming sugar they sell looks just like confectioners/powdered/icing sugar. Is this the same? Is it fine for me to use confectioners sugar or is there a better alternative?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8379" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T20:45:15.737" Title="Confectioners sugar for priming?" Tags="|bottling|sugar|priming|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13116" CreationDate="2014-10-28T23:01:49.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The need to leave mead or wine to condition for months is typically a consequence of too little oxygen and nutrients in the must. My first mead and wines was like that. After using staggered O2 and nutrients, turnaround was much quicker. Now the aging is only needed for very subtle development of flavor, rather than for total cleanup of the beverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd say that your process is fine. There is no &quot;must&quot; saying it has to take 6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T23:01:49.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13148" CreationDate="2014-10-28T23:22:33.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is almost certainly not confectioner's sugar, but instead dried malt extract (DME), which has a very similar super-fine powder consistency. While DME is all malt sugar, confectioner's sugar is a mix of finely-ground table sugar and corn-starch. You do not want corn-starch in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatives for priming sugar are pretty much any pure fermentable: table sugar, corn sugar, DME, honey … because the fermentability and thus amounts of these sugars are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; interchangeable, I suggest using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;priming sugar calculator&lt;/a&gt; to get the right amounts (and the right amount of carbonation for the style of beer) based on what sugar you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T23:22:33.177" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13148" CreationDate="2014-10-29T11:14:21.800" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the priming sugar available at homebrew shops is finely granulated dextrose/corn sugar.  It can be confused with; but it is not confectioners sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most confectioners sugar contains anti-caking agents in it, like cornstarch or silicates.  Neither of these are necessarily good for your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stopped buying &quot;priming sugar&quot; from the shop and started using table sugar.  Plain white sugar sold by the pound at most American mega marts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T11:14:21.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12790" CreationDate="2014-10-30T00:31:25.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sulphites are used in a lot of wines, ciders etc and as a general food preservative. So long as you aren't adding more than the directions call for you should be ok, especially if the packing doesn't give you warning. I use it for my wife's wine and cider at 1/4 teaspoon per 5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still want to rinse ensure you use sanitized water or you could add back bacteria you worked so hard to get out. However as a no rinse sanitizer iodopher can't be beat. Cheap, effective, no rinse. When I switched to this year's ago I noticed a big improvement in my beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T00:31:25.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12122" CreationDate="2014-10-30T16:25:44.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am also from India and fortunately hops and malts are now available in India at one of the online store brewof dot com. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have wondered for long about if I could make beer without hops mainly due to non availability, how ever if you could indeed stabilize the beer with some thing apart from hops, would it still be called beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8383" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T16:25:44.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13160" CreationDate="2014-10-31T09:56:08.157" Score="1" ViewCount="914" Body="&lt;p&gt;My situation is similar to, but more extreme than:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3315/brewed-an-oatmeal-stout-and-the-gravity-did-not-drop-as-much-as-predicted-shoul&quot;&gt;Brewed an Oatmeal Stout and the gravity did not drop as much as predicted, should I re-pitch or add yeast nutrients/energizer?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5456/didnt-reach-target-fg-pitched-more-yeast-gravity-same-after-a-week-should-i&quot;&gt;Didn&amp;#39;t reach target FG, pitched more yeast, gravity same after a week. Should I just bottle already?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10114/is-this-a-bottle-bomb-waiting-to-happen&quot;&gt;Is this a bottle bomb waiting to happen?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am brewing an Old Monster English Barley wine, here is the malt bill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Batch Size: 11,50 L &#xA;Boil Size: 13,16 L&#xA;Estimated OG: 1,110 SG&#xA;Estimated FG: 1,025 SG&#xA;Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 11,13 % &#xA;&#xA;2,00 kg Muntons Extra Light DME [Boil for 10 min] Extract 52,49 % &#xA;1,00 kg Muntons Extra Light DME (6,0 EBC) Extract 26,25 % &#xA;0,23 kg Crystal Malt - 60L (Thomas Fawcett) (118,2Grain 5,91 % &#xA;0,23 kg Crushed caramel (6,0 EBC) Grain 5,91 % &#xA;0,06 kg Pale Chocholate (550,0 EBC) Grain 1,44 % &#xA;0,06 kg Special B Malt (354,6 EBC) Grain 1,44 % &#xA;0,25 kg Dextrose (Briess) (2,0 EBC) Sugar 6,56 % &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the trub from a previous batch for yeast and the fermentation started fast and was very vigorous (and hot, I measured over 35C when the beer was at high krausen, I think this may have ruined the beer, but when I tasted it it tasted quite fine, but maybe with some weird off flavors I am hoping will disappear with aging). I added more wort in stages to not overwhelm the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My OG was around 1.112, and after 2 weeks of fermentation it is sitting quite steady at 1.045. This is 0.020 higher than what the recipe describes.&#xA;I'm using WLP002 English Ale as yeast.&#xA;My secondary only has room for half of my batch, and I will let that batch sit for some months, but the other half should be taken racked from the primary soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I see it I have a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle now&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait another week&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warm it up (it is sitting at 17C now) and stir to rouse the yeast and wait another week&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch some WLP099 Super high gravity and wait another week&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am quite liking the taste of the sweetness it is at now and do not want any more alcohol in it.&#xA;How would bottle conditioning work if I bottled at this FG?&#xA;Would exploding bottles be a problem since the yeast is mostly done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8179" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T19:55:25.500" Title="Bottling high gravity FG barley wine" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|high-gravity|barleywine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13154" CreationDate="2014-10-31T14:03:42.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definitely not bottle yet.  You may get bottle bombs, but you'll definitely get a beer that's too sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's only been 2 weeks and for a high gravity barley wine, that's not much at all.  You could warm it up in the 70sF (24C?) and see if you can get more fermentation, but I suspect you won't get much more with that yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would pitch high gravity yeast and make sure the environment is warm.  Give it as much time as you need, too.  If the yeast sits for more than 3 weeks, transfer to another vessel so autolysis isn't an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the beer, I think you'll have some problems with fusel alcohols given your high primary (95F) and all that sugar that was there to eat.  I'm not sure if fusels dissipate over time, but I don't think so.  Might end up be a headache beer either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8330" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T14:03:42.110" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-01T00:10:05.650" Score="2" ViewCount="2136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two batches of pear cider, one I used an American yeast and one I used a champagne yeast. &#xA;After racking the the airlocks were replaces and I have about 4 gallons in a 6.5 gallon glass carboy. A week after racking the champagne yeast batch has turned a darker brown then that of the American yeast batch. Is there something wrong and if so what could i do to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8386" LastActivityDate="2017-08-06T19:50:20.433" Title="After racking my cider has turned a very dark color. What may be the problem or is there one?" Tags="|cider|problems|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13157" CreationDate="2014-11-01T16:08:35.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably nothing to worry about. As the yeast drops out of suspension, the perceived colour becomes darker, as less light is reflected by the yeast. The yeast in the darker batch is likely dropping faster than the lighter batch. Give them a few weeks and the colours should be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T16:08:35.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13157" CreationDate="2014-11-01T18:11:41.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be oxidation causing the color change. This can happen if the cider is sloshed/splashed during transfers after fermentation is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T18:11:41.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13154" CreationDate="2014-11-01T18:15:53.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast will eventually ferment out more sugar, but it can take many months. I have a High FG 12% beer in a keg that I thought was done, only to find it had built up a lot of pressure as the beer continued fermenting.  (To be more thorough I should take a sample, degass it and measure the FG to see how much it's dropped.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T18:15:53.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13154" CreationDate="2014-11-01T19:55:25.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely don't bottle this right now. It is very possible that the yeast will slowly continue fermenting this and create bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is I think it is unrealistic to expect WLP 002 to do the rest of the work from here unless you wait a while. WLP 002 is a medium attenuator, and going from 1.110 to 1.045 (60% attenuation), it is nearing in the expected range of attenuation (around 70%). WLP 002 is also not great at alcohol tolerance, so with the beer at 8.5% abv and with a lot of CO@, it is creating a tougher environment for the yeast. Also, you are fermenting out of the yeast's ideal (narrow) temp range (18-20°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two weeks is way to quick to go to bottle for a Strong Ale, or to even start worrying about completing fermentaton, especially with WLP 002. You should plan on batch conditioning this for a couple months in total, at 18-20°C, then seeing if you need to add a new pitch around the 4-week point. Finally go to bottles when the beer hits terminal gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T19:55:25.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11019" CreationDate="2014-11-01T20:54:04.027" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with a sterile carboy, airlock, funnel, and cold pressed apple cider. Don't use anything that has preservatives in it. Pitch in a Campden tablet per gallon of juice to kill any unidentified bacteria or yeast.  Let sit for 24 hours then pitch in some champagne or cider yeast. Watch it ferment. Save some 2 litre bottles in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the brew is done bubbling in the air lock, siphon the juice into the 2 liter bottles and freeze them with a hole in the cap to prevent an explosion. Wait 12-24 hours to pull the bottles and invert them over another vessel or bucket. I use a clean milk jug inside a 5 gal bucket to stabilize it. Let the mass drain till the ice is mostly clear and you have a good amount of liquid in the milk jug. Throw away the ice. Return the liquid to the 2 liter cap and re-freeze. Repeat this process until it no longer freezes. Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8387" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-03-06T08:58:49.343" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T08:58:49.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-02T05:59:11.947" Score="1" ViewCount="2527" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two weeks ago I started 2 gallons of hard cider from windfalls - washed and bruises cut out.  I pasteurized my own apple juice, kept it below boil.  No preservatives.  Everything was santitized with Starsan.  I used Nottingham yeast (1 gram each bottle)  Bubbles never escaped more than one  every 10 -15 seconds.  The hydrometor tonight reads 1.04. I can't remember what i started with. The room is about 55-60 F.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tonight I added another 1/5 package yeast (expiry date Jan, 2015- Nottinghams)  and another 1/4 cup sugar.  the taste is sweet but a bit off -  yeasty? vinegary?   There is some scuzzy froth at the top.  I've heard nottingham is slow (and does okay in a cooler room) but I've moved one jar closer to the wood stove to see what happens. Bubbles are now rising in both about 1 every 5-6 seconds.  Cider not clear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not in a big hurry but I don't want all that juicing for our cider  to turn to vinegar! - Any ideas as to how i should monitor this?&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8388" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T17:57:08.980" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T17:57:08.980" Title="Slow Fermentation in cider" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-02T11:05:03.510" Score="2" ViewCount="2272" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to space and time constraints, I have been using BIAB and no-chill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm satisfied with the results I get with most of my brews, but never got a good IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In special, my brews lack the pungent hop aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually do a single bittering addition @ 60m (start of boil). &#xA;Any tips on how to get a very hoppy IPA using no-chill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T12:34:18.933" Title="Tips on making a no-chill IPA" Tags="|ipa|biab|no-chill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-03T04:44:35.303" Score="2" ViewCount="7497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I routinely take my pre-boil gravity after sparging to determine mash efficiency so that I can throw in DME or Dextrose for a lower than expected yield or add water for a higher than expected yield, all in an attempt to hit my target OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I batch sparge, and recently I realized that the force of circulation when collecting 2nd and 3rd runnings is not enough to fully distribute the collected sugar in the entirety of the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When brewing today, I took a gravity reading directly after sparging, and then again after stirring for a solid minute.  The pre-stir reading when cooled to 60F was 1.080.  The post-stir reading reading when cooled to 60F was 1.050, so stirring definitely had an effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, with a pre-boil gravity of 1.050 compared to the projected yield of my grain bill, I would have achieved a mash efficiency of 96%.  While this high of a yield would be great, it is not possible.  I should be in the ballpark of 78-80%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts are that either (A) I did not stir long enough and vigorously enough or (B) temperature variations in collected wort are preventing consistent absorption of the sugar throughout the wort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems the best time may be just before boil when the wort's temperature is consistent and the process of heating has moved things around a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experimented with this and found the optimal time/process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T20:25:17.193" Title="When/How to Measure Pre-Boil Gravity to Determine Mash Efficiency" Tags="|mash|specific-gravity|efficiency|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13165" CreationDate="2014-11-03T05:29:32.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's best to measure as the wort comes to the boil for the reasons you mention - all the wort is at the same temperature and the convection currents have mixed the wort fully, so you get a much more accurate reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T05:29:32.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13168" CreationDate="2014-11-03T12:33:42.977" Score="1" ViewCount="1605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought two used cornies. They're pin locks, and neither of them came with Gas tubes. Will everything still work? Or do I need to buy replacements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1537" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2014-12-30T00:52:17.657" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T00:52:17.657" Title="Gas In dip tube is missing in my corny-keg" Tags="|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13167" CreationDate="2014-11-03T13:28:04.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure they're not there? I ask because I have six pin lock kegs, and two of them have tiny gas dip tubes that are maybe a quarter of an inch long. (Just long enough to hold the O-ring.) They usually stick inside the gas post when I remove it. I can attest that these short dip tubes work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, though, you will need dip tubes because the O-ring that creates the seal slides onto the dip tube. Without the dip tube, there's no O-ring. Without the O-ring, there's no seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm not sure the poppet valve inside the post will function properly if the dip tube is missing. The gap left between the bottom of the poppet valve and the top of the nipple probably would allow the poppet valve to slide down out of position, leaving it incapable of creating a seal at the top of the post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really don't have the dip tubes and just want to see what happens, you can try putting thread tape on the nipple, screwing the post on, pushing some gas in, and checking for leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T13:28:04.673" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13164" CreationDate="2014-11-03T16:45:38.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you do a basic bittering addition, then do a massive &quot;flameout/cube&quot; hopping, like 3-4oz of something pungent. Ferment with a clean yeast, and that will give you some idea of a baseline for non-dry-hopped hop aroma and flavor. I did this basically with EKG once, and it was underwhelming, but good hoppy beers are tough to nail and it could have been something else for me. I'd recommend pitching as soon as your cube comes down to pitching temps, don't wait around for a few days as this might degrade the hop aroma from the cube-hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you get the baseline for the cube-hopping, obviously you can work on extra dry-hopping to punch up the aroma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T16:45:38.177" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13163" CreationDate="2014-11-03T17:56:35.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the initial fermentation failed to start for two reasons. First, you didn't pitch enough yeast. An 11g packet of dry ale yeast is intended to ferment 5 gallons of beer. So your 1 gallon jugs should have each received a little of 2g of yeast. Secondly, the ambient temperature was at the bottom end of the range for that yeast. Cold temperatures lead to a slower start for yeast. The combination of under-pitching and low temperatures was probably sufficient to keep the yeast from kicking off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding more yeast and warming up the juice is the right thing to do. I would have added the entire packet of yeast, as over-pitching is really not a concern here. But since the fermentation seems to be going, 1/5 packet was likely sufficient. Try to keep the fermenting cider at a constant temperature, near to 20C, and let it finish fermenting. Once it's cleared, you can taste it and find out if you made cider or vinegar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T17:56:35.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13119" CreationDate="2014-11-03T18:29:49.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rough filtration followed by sterile filtration, add back sugar, then force carb. This wouldn't be cheap or easy (or even practical at your volume). I would suggest you just purchase a ginger beer for something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8393" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T18:29:49.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12997" CreationDate="2014-11-03T20:43:58.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure I understand your question, so I am assuming you mean to ask, &lt;strong&gt;&quot;How much Maris Otter do I need mash in order to get the extract equivalent of 1.5 kg of liquid malt extract?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; I also assume you know that Maris Otter is a grain that must be mashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LME has an extract potential of 292 gravity points per kg per liter (PKL), meaning that one kg of LME dissolved in 1 liter of water will give you a wort with a specific gravity of 1.292. (Incidentally, DME has extract potential of 351 PKG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maris Otter has a theoretical extract potential of 317 PKL, but if you assume a mash efficiency of 65%, that is 317 * 0.65 = 206 PKL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, to replace/equal one kg of LME with Maris Otter, you would need 292/206 kg of Maris Otter, or 1.42 kg of Maris Otter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your answer:&lt;/strong&gt; to replace/equal 1.5 kg of LME, you would need 1.42 * 1.5 kg, or 2.13 kg of Maris Otter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;65% efficiency is a good guess if you don't know your efficiency, but if you have a different, known efficiency, you could repeat the math above with your actual efficiency estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T20:43:58.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13165" CreationDate="2014-11-03T21:23:28.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A refractometer helps too, since you don't need to adjust for temperature and can use a very small sample. I normally rack the wort before I take a reading (and measure volume) which helps to evenly distribute the sparge and first runnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2014-11-08T20:25:17.193" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T20:25:17.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13165" CreationDate="2014-11-04T12:26:27.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure your calculating your 100% correctly? Or more importantly have you measured your collected volume precisely this can through off your calculation significantly too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I batch sparge as well.  Once I have all my wort collected I start my burner, give it a quick stir and take an immediate sample for preboil gravity. It doesn't take much of a stir to get the sugars homogenized through the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply get the wort swirling then cut through it again with the spoon in the opposite direction.  Both the temp and the sugars will homogenize fairly quickly. There isn't anything mystical holding it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked using a refractometer and hydrometer recently.  Due to the small sample size you'd expect the refractometer process to be more suspect due to insufficient mixing, whereas the hydrometer takes a large sample with better chance for a better sampling of the wort. Both measurements were the same when corrected for temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T12:26:27.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13164" CreationDate="2014-11-04T12:34:18.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a great Falconers Flight IPA using no chill last winter.  I simply added a sufficient bittering charge 40-50 IBUs at 60 minutes.  Then added 3 oz of pellets at Flameout. Put the lid on and walked away.  I transferred to the fermentor the next day.  With a couple days left in fermentation I added another 2 oz of FF pellets to the fermentor.  5 days later racked to a keg.  The beer had good aroma but great flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the same concept with traditional chilling and got close to the flavor profile by adding the original flame out hops with 20 minutes left in the boil.  The profile was pretty close to the original no chill batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No chill lends itself to some nice long hopstanding for flavor.  But you still need a good dry hopping charge post fermentation to get the aroma you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T12:34:18.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-04T12:34:32.697" Score="1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;The O.G. of my beer is 1.062&#xA;this is my recipe &#xA;coopers stout tin 1.7kg&#xA;stout enhancer 1.kg (looks like soft brown sugar and other sugars?)&#xA;Glucose 500grams&#xA;Honey 250 grams&#xA;can anyone predict the F.G.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8195" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T13:56:02.093" Title="what is the F.G" Tags="|beer|fermentation|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13176" CreationDate="2014-11-04T13:56:02.093" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is impossible to predict YOUR FG. I know nothing about your skill level, your fermentation processes (temp, O2, pitching rates).  I know nothing about the yeast you plan to use.  I know nothing about the true fermentability of the extract and booster you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said some estimates can be made.  In the best of scenarios if we assume a 65% attenuation rate you would end up around 1.022 OG.  This might be able to be changed up or down a few points depending on the quality of your fermentation regimen.  The glucose and honey CAN ferment out completely but if your fermentation isn't great that 100% ideal drops a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something that you can do yourself would be to sacrifice two pints of the wort pre-fermentation in a sanitized jar and do a forced fermentation test.  Pitch a full packet of dry yeast into it and ferment it at 75-85F.  Shaking it twice a day. After 5 days you would cool it down to drop the yeast (2 days), then take a sample for gravity check.  That would represent the likely maximum drop you would expect out of that wort in your main batch.  For example, if it fermented down to 1.012 then maybe under ideal conditions you could expect the main batch to be 5-7 points higher than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T13:56:02.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-04T16:02:23.990" Score="4" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been researching online for months now in preparation for my first brew  but there are still questions to which I can find no answers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is yeast either dead or alive, i.e. works 100% or not at all, or can it deteriorate to a point in between? And is there a way to test its effectiveness before pitching?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How trustworthy are the unbranded little sachets that come with a single can kit? Would I be better using a brand of recognised quality?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any advantage to 'starting' it with water and sugar before pitching?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it a good idea to add extra yeast to a kit brew as an insurance, or is too much as bad as not enough?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to add more yeast than comes with the kit if I add extra fermentables above the instructions? (for a higher ABV)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone add yeast nutrient to kit brews?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8396" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T12:39:41.460" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T18:18:26.080" Title="Basic yeast questions" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7494" CreationDate="2014-11-04T16:03:39.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just called Robinar, manufacturer of refractometer I have.  Posed the temperature compensation question to them and the response is:  when calibrating the tool (IE: putting distilled water on the glass) make sure that test/calibtratiuon water is the same temp as the product/material to be tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8398" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T16:03:39.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13178" CreationDate="2014-11-04T16:29:54.367" Score="10" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An individual yeast cell is either dead or alive. A packet of yeast will have millions to billions of cells though. Some percentage of that will be alive, and the remaining percentage will be dead. The older the packet, and the worse the storage conditions, the higher the percentage of dead yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Depends on the brand of kit. Some kits use no-name yeast, for which I would spend the $0.99 on a pack of fresh, brand-name yeast. Some kits are popular, use good yeast, and don't sit on the shelf for very long. Those you can probably get by using the included yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, for liquid yeast there is an advantage to making a starter. Recipes vary, but the basics are water, DME, yeast energizer and nutrient. Make it 24 hours before pitching time. Dry yeast should always follow the rehydrating instructions on the packet (typically ~20 minutes in ~100F water).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is a point where too much yeast can hurt, but an extra 11 g packet typically won't hurt. It could lead to a vigorous start to fementation which could create a significant amount of krausen. The krausen could overflow from your fermenter without a blowoff tube.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It depends how much you're talking about adding? If you're pushing over 8% ABV, I'd suggest either a yeast designed for that, or additional yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes. I use yeast nutrient and energizer in every brew. Typically I add those to the starter as I usually brew with liquid yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8323" LastEditorUserId="8323" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T18:18:26.080" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T18:18:26.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13182" CreationDate="2014-11-04T17:53:04.853" Score="2" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to brew the Winter Wassail from &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1580170102&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Homebrewer's Garden&lt;/a&gt;.  The recipe calls for adding 4 pounds of mashed cranberries and 2 pounds of ground apples at flameout, steeping them for 15-20 minutes, cooling, and then putting the wort and fruit together into the fermenter.  The recipe also calls for racking the beer off the fruit into a carboy after 2-4 weeks in the primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had success with leaving simpler recipes in the primary for extra time instead of transferring it to a secondary.  This will be my first time working with fruit, though.  Are there any hazards to leaving the beer on the fruit in the primary for an extra week or 2 (or maybe more)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6057" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T05:43:37.930" Title="Are there any downsides to leaving beer on fruit in the primary?" Tags="|fruit|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13181" CreationDate="2014-11-04T18:05:11.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. If you wait an extended period of time you can get autolysis from yeast and get some off flavors. But it would be a lot longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you I would add the fruit to secondary. Boiling will only take away from the aroma and flavor of the fruit. They probably suggest this to avoid contamination. As long as you have good sanitation I wouldn't worry about it. Soak the fruit in starsan or vodka first to kill off any other microbes. Plenty of good reading about adding fruit to beer out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8391" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T18:05:11.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-04T19:03:11.490" Score="1" ViewCount="1409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of making &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerrecipes.org/showrecipe.php?recipeid=553&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; recipe but my homebrew store doesn't have any Northwestern Gold LME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would any old light malt extract be an okay replacement? A full list of (liquid) malt extracts I can buy is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/ingredientsadditivessteriliser-liquid-malt-extract-c-3_38.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T00:23:52.310" Title="Alternative malt extract for Northwestern Gold LME" Tags="|dme|lme|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13178" CreationDate="2014-11-04T20:21:27.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on a few answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.&#xA;Yeast cells can become fatigued over time, and over generations. You don't need to worry about this as long as you're buy new yeast every time. When you start re-using yeast from a previous fermentation, you will need to worry.  As for testing effectiveness - that's where making a starter (question 3) is very beneficial - since you get to see first hand how healthy the yeast look as well as starting your brew off with a nice healthy and vigorous fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 &amp;amp; 5.&#xA;A kit will most likely come with just enough yeast for its recipe. It's normally safe (recommended even) to pitch a lot of yeast (howtobrew.com). 100 billion yeast cells is almost the minimum for your average 6% abv brews - and 200 billion for 8% plus. Every brewer I know aiming for 7% abv or more will add yeast nutrients to ensure healthy yeast reproduction. Making a proper starter will greatly increase the cell count of your yeast, so instead of buying another yeast packet, make a starter instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tto get a better technical understanding of our little friends, get the book &lt;em&gt;Yeast&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T20:21:27.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13183" CreationDate="2014-11-05T00:23:52.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on Northwestern's website (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northwesternextract.com/brewing/malt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northwesternextract.com/brewing/malt/&lt;/a&gt;), their Gold LME is equivalent to light LME (not extra light) from other companies. It falls right in between their Extra Light and Amber LMEs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this Home Brew Talk thread (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/what-gold-lme-126714/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/what-gold-lme-126714/&lt;/a&gt;), the last post explains that Briess also has a Gold LME and what's used to make it. I would guess that's very similar to Northwestern's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8323" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T00:23:52.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13195" CreationDate="2014-11-05T03:37:05.510" Score="3" ViewCount="1953" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://postimg.org/image/8x0w5f7g5/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This photo&lt;/a&gt; shows the lid off a keg I purchased. I think it's a manual release valve, but all the manual one I've seen online have pull rings. As requested, &lt;a href=&quot;http://postimg.org/image/j3n3dbzdl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here is a photo of the back&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this work without the ring? Can I add a ring and make my pin lock just a bit easier to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1537" LastEditorUserId="1537" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T13:58:16.297" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T13:44:49.043" Title="Is this pressure release valve missing a pull ring?" Tags="|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3447" CreationDate="2014-11-05T10:07:15.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dissolve a few grains of vitamin C powder in my bath water and that works. Not so easy for washing up though as problem with rinsing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8403" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T10:07:15.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13186" CreationDate="2014-11-05T12:48:06.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never seen one like that.  It doesn't look like a pull release at all.  It looks like its more of a press to release.  So in that case a pull ring wouldn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll edit this if information changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;This looks like an adulterated lid to me for some reason.  Normally the PRV screws in from the top and looks like this:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/pressure-relief-valve-cornelius-ball-lock-kegs.html?utm_medium=feeds&amp;amp;utm_source=google&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQiA1eyiBRC-qI2VzKf0vaUBEiQAUiZ3xG5T3g-hNtaNqXOg7sQuHDIECGhDnAoTX2I9oL7Zwy8aAg1r8P8HAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PRV from Midwest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get one hopefully you can simple remove that yellow thing and screw a proper PRV into the top. Otherwise I think you are stuck.  Buy a whole new lid is the best bet, one with a proper PRV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T16:55:12.753" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T16:55:12.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13190" CreationDate="2014-11-05T14:02:02.583" Score="1" ViewCount="1414" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I force carbonate my keg, and after that I close my CO2 cilinder valve and plug my gas line into my gas in quick disconnect. Would this make my CO2 regulator to work as a spunding valve and let me regulate the CO2 pressure inside my keg? This things works in both flow ways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, there is a way to properly measure the psi inside the keg without buying a pressure gauge for that? That's my plan on future, but for now I need to force carbonate (fast way) a keg, but don't want to take much time in trial and error when go dispensing my beer to get a perfect pouring. There is about 6 hours to my event, not enough time to the 'set it and forget' method. My kegs are pin lock, and doesn't have a pressure relief valve, what makes adjusting pressure when serving a little more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T11:24:41.160" Title="Can I use my CO2 regulator as a inside keg pressure checker?" Tags="|corny-keg|pressure|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13189" CreationDate="2014-11-05T14:52:55.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The regulator will give you a reading of the pressure inside the keg, but will not release the pressure the way a spunding valve would -- you'll have to do that manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T14:52:55.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13148" CreationDate="2014-11-05T20:45:15.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To better understand what to use, you have to understand what the yeast actually likes to eat.  Yeast can only consume simple (monosaccharides) sugars.  Of this, glucose/dextrose is preferred but it will also consume fructose and galactose.  In order for it to consume more complex sugars (disaccharides and polysaccharides), such as sucrose (table sugar) or lactose (milk sugar) or starches (DME), it needs to create enzymes to break it down meaning it does more work for less gain.  By this logic the best thing to use for priming would be glucose/dextrose as it produces the most CO2/gram with the least byproducts (enzymes can also break down your desirable beer elements altering the flavor and reducing shelf-life) and in the shortest time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But not so fast.  As others have mentioned your sugar itself might contain other ingredients.  The most common for dextrose and confectioner's sugar is corn starch.  In dextrose the amount is quite small (naturally occurring considering its source, though if you look you can find 100% pure) but in confectioner's sugar the amount is much more noticeable to the point where it can influence flavors (if you hate frosting this is probably why, try a french butter-cream instead).  In sucrose and DME there are typically no additives which make for a much better option.  The only issue with DME is that it can give you a bit more of a malty taste due to what it leaves behind after the yeast is done with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing to consider is that the amount you need.  In most low carbonation beers you're not adding much so you can probably get away with just about anything with sugar in a pinch (apple juice box? why not!).  Even in high carbonation beers you probably aren't going to see enough enzyme by-products from sucrose or starchy taste from the corn starch in your dextrose to really notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, while the science behind all of this is somewhat fascinating all you're after is a good bubbly beer that doesn't taste like licking a cake from the grocery store.  You really can't mess things up by using either dextrose, sucrose, or DME.  Since sucrose is typically the cheapest and most readily available a lot of brewers use it.  A tip I can give is to throw it in the food processor or coffee grinder for a bit to make it easier to dissolve completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8406" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T20:45:15.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3447" CreationDate="2014-11-06T09:15:21.117" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nyc.gov/html/dep/pdf/wsstate17.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;According to the New York City water report&lt;/a&gt; (page 20), all you need to do is transfer the water between two vessels 10 times to remove chlorine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using this method for all of my homebrews by filling a 12 quart pot with tap water and transferring back-and-forth between a second 12 quart pot, lifting the pot as I pour as high above my head as I can to maximize splashing (to comfortably tilt the heavy pot as you empty it, lift with the heel of your palms underneath the handles, rather than grasping the handles from above with your fingers curled underneath). Place the receiving pot in the sink in case you miss. I then store the water in gallon jugs and repeat the process until I have the desired amount of strike and sparge water collected for my batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8409" LastEditorUserId="16872" LastEditDate="2018-12-14T12:31:31.133" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T12:31:31.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13140" CreationDate="2014-11-06T16:40:20.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like when this happens to one of my brews, the yeast has created a lot of harsh tasting alcohol and combined with the fruit base, it's reminds me of cough syrup. The best thing I can recommend is to let the batch age. There's a good reason why wine can take years before it becomes a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T16:40:20.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-06T17:38:56.457" Score="1" ViewCount="1064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fermenting an alt in my cellar using WLP036 (Düsseldorf Alt). Pitched a 2 litre starter into 21 litre 1.051 wort. Fermentation was extremely vigorous at 16 C ambient temperature for 36 hours, then dropped &lt;em&gt;fast&lt;/em&gt;. Ambient temperature has dropped somewhat, to 14 C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White Labs list the optimum range as 65-69 F (18-21 C), but it is supposedly common knowledge that the best fermentation temperature is cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: should I move the fermentor to a warmer place, or is it fine where it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2021-12-27T00:22:45.837" Title="WLP036 (Düsseldorf Alt) and cool temperatures" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13186" CreationDate="2014-11-06T18:26:20.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm from Brasil, and the kegs found here always came from coca-cola, and have the pin-lock as standard. Here you can't find the ball lock ones. All the kegs I've ever seen here has this kind of lid, or something a little different:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XETsd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZM3nt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ones uses the kind of pressure relief valve you cited in brewchez' answer, and is always screwed from the bottom of the lid.&#xA;This kind of valves are not replaceble by the ball lock lid type, and cannot be pushed or pulled to release the pressure. The only thing this prv can do is prevent your keg to explode. It will release the pressure beyond a limit (cornelius keg say it hold 130 psi, but I don't think the old ones find here will hold that). Once it has make its job, its done. You will need to replace it to use the lid again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that your lid is like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this kind of keg set you will need to release the pressure by the gas in post poppet. Just push the poppet with a screwdriver or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can just buy a new lid with a gas releaser valve. But if you don't want buy nothing, I recommend to fill your keg with water before use it with beer and put CO2 in just like as you would do when force carbonate in fast way. Set to ~30 psi and lay the keg and shake it for about 10 minutes. If it holds that, so your ok to go. If you don't do that before, you can end with your beer leaving your keg by this valve like a geyser. It happened to me, and I think that check it before worth the effort. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: it seems that the valve doesn't need to be replaced after use. Check this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/12261/do-pin-lock-static-relief-valves-need-to-be-replaced-after-activation&quot;&gt;Do pin lock static relief valves need to be replaced after activation?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T13:44:49.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13194" CreationDate="2014-11-06T23:09:12.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;14C is 57F or so. That awfully cool for an ale yeast. Even 16C is only 60F. That's still below their recommended range. While it may be recommended to ferment at lower temperatures, 4C/8F lower than WL's recommended minimum will definitely slow, and possibly halt, fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said that initial fermentation was &quot;extremely vigorous&quot; so this drop in fermentation activity may be due to finishing fermentation rather than due to temperature. 1.051 wort isn't particularly high gravity, so it's possible that with that large of a starter fermentation may be complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest taking a gravity reading and comparing that to your expected FG. That's the only definitive way to tell what is truly going on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8323" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T23:09:12.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13203" CreationDate="2014-11-07T06:11:01.450" Score="1" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed up what the recipe calls a Stout, and from the samples I've taken, its quite good I think. There is a local competition coming up, and I was thinking about entering it, but I'm not sure what category to put it under. I think its the regular BJCP categories, the competition is &lt;a href=&quot;http://abqbeer.com/holiday-fiesta-brew-competition/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;[here]&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe is [&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f68/reindeer-fuel-stout-75249/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;] and below, and my question is, what category would this fall under (hopefully a stout, like the name says), and further, what characteristics define a stout?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Recipe Type: All Grain&#xA;Yeast: US-05 Cake&#xA;Yeast Starter: No&#xA;Additional Yeast or Yeast Starter: no&#xA;Batch Size (Gallons): 5&#xA;Original Gravity: 1.071&#xA;Final Gravity: 1.023&#xA;IBU: 29.9&#xA;Boiling Time (Minutes): 90&#xA;Color: 34.84&#xA;&#xA;Grain Bill&#xA;10 lbs. American 2-row &#xA;.5 lbs. English Chocolate Malt &#xA;1.5 lbs. CaraMunich III® &#xA;1 lbs. Carafa III® &#xA;1 lbs. Lactose &#xA;1 oz. Saaz (Pellets, 4.5 %AA) boiled 60 min.&#xA;1 oz. Saaz (Pellets, 4.5 %AA) boiled 30 min. &#xA;Yeast : US-05 Cake&#xA;&#xA;After initial 14 days, rack onto 1/2 gallon of Cold Brewed Coffee. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;My changes:&#xA;  Instead of cold brewed coffee, after 14 days, dry &quot;hopped&quot; 6 ounces of coffee grounds&#xA;  It has a strong coffee flavor, amid the malts and lactose, I like it&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2014-11-07T07:30:46.347" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T15:28:19.770" Title="What makes a Stout" Tags="|stout|bjcp|competition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13197" CreationDate="2014-11-07T06:52:31.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other special beer, since you added coffee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T06:52:31.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-07T07:39:17.567" Score="1" ViewCount="985" Body="&lt;p&gt;I attempted to make apple cider, buying Kirkland apple juice (6 Gallons) and 500g dextrose. All i did was pour in the juice and pitched the yeast (s04) ontop of the juice at about 20deg Celsius, O.G reading of 1056. The fermentation kicked off strong, bubbling and dropping gravity to 1034, here it has stopped on day 4 for the last 4 days. The wort did drop to 17deg celsius but aparrently this is within its temperature range? I have since raised the temp to 20-22 steady, and nothing... Should I pitch another packet of yeast? Is there any saving the cider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8415" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T09:25:21.930" Title="Cider fermentation stuck/stopped" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13199" CreationDate="2014-11-07T08:02:58.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;4 days of fermentation is a very short amount of time for a cider. Let it go. Add yeast nutrient if you can acquire it, ideally something with both general yeast nutrients (yeast hulls, vitamin B) and DAP. Cider does not really have all the things yeast wants to be healthy, and needs additional nutrients. Look in to &quot;staggered nutrient addition&quot; if you want a better protocol for the future; also, look in to sulfiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said: did the Kirkland apple juice already contain preservatives such as potassium metabisulfite or any other yeast-unfriendly compounds? Hopefully not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, and in any case, give the cider at least 2-3 months of ferment and conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Patience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T08:02:58.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13199" CreationDate="2014-11-07T11:50:04.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The S04 yeast strain is notorious for dropping out with a temp drop.  You have warmed it back up which is good.  Now you need to rouse the yeast back into suspension. Either through some shaking or gently stirring if you can get a long enough implement into your fermentor.  A little yeast nutrient/energizer would help too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-11-10T14:40:22.077" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T14:40:22.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-07T13:30:04.787" Score="3" ViewCount="5633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been keen on moving from bottles to use kegs in my amateur home brews. Due to a lack of space and because I just like the size and mobility of the smaller kegs I'd like to try to use multiple &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.humle.se/shop/11011/art11/h7236/9937236-origpic-46bcdb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mini kegs of about 5L size&lt;/a&gt; for a 20L+ brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read about a trick for how to force carbonate the beer in mini kegs using sodastream bottles which seemed to make for a pretty convenient process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also been &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9750/what-are-the-benefits-of-fermenting-under-pressure/9751#9751&quot;&gt;reading about pressurized fermentation&lt;/a&gt; directly in the keg as a way to remove the carbonation step from the process which seems beneficial to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I have not been able to find any good sources on if this is feasible or not. I'm assuming that a mini keg can take the pressure, considering it can be force carbonated, although it would probably need a pressure release valve so it can be kept under a certain pressure (2-3 bar?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking it would mean a process similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brew wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill mini kegs with wort, aerate and pitch each keg with yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit kegs with pressure release valves set to a certain bar (and perhaps adjust over time?).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it ferment and carbonate for 2 weeks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap the keg through a filter into glass and cheers!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamswarn.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.williamswarn.com/&lt;/a&gt; uses a similar process, but in a smart little machine with built in boiler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this process be even possible and what pitfalls have I not considered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8389" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T22:30:19.123" Title="Is it possible to do pressurized fermentation in a mini keg?" Tags="|fermentation|keg|pressure|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13197" CreationDate="2014-11-07T15:19:48.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With that much caramel malt, I really doubt you could pass it off as a &quot;dry stout&quot; with a straight face. I would guess &quot;sweet stout&quot; would be the best fit, or possibly &quot;foreign extra stout&quot; (which is, frankly, a catchall style) if there's too much bitterness to put it under &quot;sweet stout&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as Codehopper mentioned above, if it tastes like you added coffee, consider &quot;specialty beer&quot; instead. Judges can get grumpy about non-standard ingredients in the main styles, and given that it sounds like you're new to competitions, you probably won't care that much about the crap-shoot nature of &quot;specialty beer&quot; judging (better to get useful comments than a ribbon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just realized I never really answered your question. Historically, stout and porter had a great deal in common, referring to a dark, roasty ale. &quot;Stout&quot; was originally short for &quot;stout porter&quot;, and simply referred to a particularly strong porter. More recently, &quot;stout&quot; became the better-known and more widely available style, and gradually lost the strength connotations. The revival of &quot;porter&quot; as a style was fairly recent, and entirely due to craft brewers. As a result, &quot;porter&quot; tends to be richer and more complex simply because it's a craft beer; and, ironically, tends to be stronger than stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7961" LastEditorUserId="7961" LastEditDate="2014-11-07T15:28:19.770" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T15:28:19.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-07T17:16:37.837" Score="4" ViewCount="857" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on build one cooler based dispensing system for my kegs. My previous experience was with a box with 2 aluminium coils (~15m long) and 2 faucets. It holds a 20 Kg ice pack. And the beer pour is just fine when the carbonation and settings are OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I've found that for a period of a party/beer session, that amount of ice is overshoot. If full of ice, the box let you drink cold beer for about 3 days very easy. I don't think that I need so much power to enjoy one or 2 kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to repeat the coil size because its easy to buy here and I think its long enough. And my goal is to make the more portable system, so I will shot for just one line/faucet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much small sized it could be to hold the coil and the ice?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What's the minimum amount of ice to get the beer cold enough? (the temperature range of my city is within 15-32ºC, 20-25º most days; and I want to have an ice autonomy of at least 5 hours or 2-3 corny-kegs ful dispensing.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-07T12:42:05.667" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T17:46:46.543" Title="What's the minimum size for a jockey box?" Tags="|kegging|corny-keg|diy|serving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13123" CreationDate="2014-11-07T19:39:13.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Denny that it's way too soon to worry about your beer. Also, when it's all said and done, it will be VERY obvious if your beer went bad - not just a smell, taste too. I would also recommend that next time you either brew a bigger batch or ferment in a smaller vessel. When you expose your beer to more air, you're less likely to build the CO2 barrier that protects your fermenting beer from foreign bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the look of your beer, I think that color is normal. Some of the cloudiness should dissipate with time. Activity in the airlock is also usually a good sign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T19:39:13.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13207" CreationDate="2014-11-07T19:41:18.843" Score="3" ViewCount="1712" Body="&lt;p&gt;What exactly are the benefits and just how significant are they of making a yeast starter as opposed to throwing in the yeast as per most beer kit instructions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8117" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T14:12:03.040" Title="Yeast Starter Benefits" Tags="|beer|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13206" CreationDate="2014-11-07T20:00:20.193" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary benefit of a starter is having the proper number of healthy yeast cells to ferment your wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By &quot;proper number&quot;, we mean about 0.75 million cells per milliliter per degree Plato of wort for ales, and 1.5 million cells/mL/P for lagers. (Consider that smack packs and vials have about 100bn cells when fresh, which is only enough cells for 5gl/19L of ale up to about an OG of 1.028.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By &quot;healthy&quot;, we mean cells with good viability and well-stocked of metabolic reserves for the challenging feast ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefits are going to be a better fermentation all around: lower lag times (ie, less time for other contaminants to grow), less off-flavor production, more thorough/complete fermentation, less chance of stalling, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some it's going to be the difference between bad beer and good beer, and for others, it'll be the difference between good beer and great beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast health (primarily via starters for liquid yeast and rehydration for dry yeast) and fermentation temperature control are probably the two most important post-novice homebrewing upgrades you can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T20:00:20.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13206" CreationDate="2014-11-08T14:12:03.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A starter is not absolutely necessary and has its own drawbacks. Re-hydrating a sufficient quantity of fresh dry yeast is all that is needed to get a good fermentation underway and should make no difference to the quality of the finished product compared to using a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point, as already mentioned, of a yeast starter is to increase the number of yeast cells to be added to the wort (for beer) or must (for wine) to a level sufficient for them to become quickly dominant over all other possible growth organisms, including possibly wild yeasts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if your wort was carefully prepared using sanitized equipment, etc., the increased lag time of not using a starter will make no difference, plus it takes time to make a starter and has its own risks of infection, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A starter makes sense mainly when a) you are harvesting yeast from a previous batch and have only a small quantity, b) that yeast needs a shot of some nutrition to get it re-invogorated before re-pitching in the next batch, c) you have a stuck fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But just dropping the dry yeast on the wort is also not a good idea because of the high rate of yeast death that will probably occur and the very long lag time before the remaining yeast starts to function. You should first re-hydrate the yeast. That's not the same as making a starter and is much less work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-hydrating means first emptying the dry-pack of yeast in a sanitized container of 2 ounces of pre-boiled (microwaved is fine) distilled water cooled to 40C (104F), leaving the yeast in the water for 15-25 minutes (not more than 45minutes), stirring gently just before pitching to break up any clumps. The temperature difference between yeast and wort should be less than 10C (18F) to prevent yeast &quot;shock&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, that's not a &quot;starter&quot;, because there are no nutrients being added and you are not waiting for the yeast to multiply, and the yeast is not yet in the fermentation stage. But the yeast will be &quot;roused&quot; and ready for the liquid environment of your wort or must, without the added time and risk involved in getting a starter going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T14:12:03.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13123" CreationDate="2014-11-09T03:44:57.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few smells you should worry about, because you're smelling the liquid. For instance, a vinegary smell (suggests acetobacter infection).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other smells that you should &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; worry about, because you're smelling the gas leaving the liquid. For instance, sulphur. Most smells during fermentation are in this category, actually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, you don't drink your beer from the fermenter. What matters is how your beer tastes from the glass. And with a (very) few exceptions, that has nothing to do with the outgassing from your airlock. What you're smelling is the stuff that &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; end up in your beer, not the stuff that does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7961" LastActivityDate="2014-11-09T03:44:57.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2899" CreationDate="2014-11-09T23:38:28.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The phrase triple fermentation had me scratching my head wondering what that was. And then on the recent blood moon, a dead batch of beer I had moved a couple days earlier to clarify, came roaring back to life, it too died, then came back to life again. &#xA;And yes, there was triple yeast mix added from start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2014-11-09T23:38:28.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5837" CreationDate="2014-11-10T05:32:56.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recipe recommended by JoeFish (home made no-rinse sanitizer) on the homebrewtalk.com wiki has been deleted, so I'm reproducing it here, as rescued via the &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20130425062034/http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Homemade_No_Rinse_Sanitizer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wayback machine&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For all of you wondering, yes you can make your own sanitizer at home.&#xA;  I recommend a good commercial no-rinse sanitizer (NRS) like Star-San,&#xA;  Iodophor, etc. In a pinch though, there is a simple solution to your&#xA;  sanitation dilemma (pardon the pun).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Everyone has heard the home brewers warnings about bleach and the&#xA;  brewery, and they are right. However, the man himself Charlie Talley&#xA;  (manufacturer of Five Star Chemicals, makers of Star-San) spoke about&#xA;  a homemade concoction that kills just as well in the event of large&#xA;  scale sanitation or the using up of your favorite sanitizer. Charlie&#xA;  recommends an accurately measured solution be made from the &quot;dreaded&quot;&#xA;  bleach, water, and house hold distilled white vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A mixture ratio of &lt;strong&gt;1 oz distilled white vinegar&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;5 gallons of water&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  is thoroughly mixed, and then &lt;strong&gt;1 oz of household bleach&lt;/strong&gt; is added only&#xA;  after the vinegar is diluted in the water will work perfectly. This&#xA;  high dilution of the vinegar in the water before the bleach is added&#xA;  prevents any out-gassing of chlorine from the bleach that is added at&#xA;  the end. The vinegar actually helps the bleach work as a better&#xA;  sanitizer due to acidifying the solution more. The high dilution also&#xA;  means it leaves no residual tastes behind of bleach or vinegar, making&#xA;  it a perfect &quot;cheap&quot; no-rise sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for those of us who use metric, that's 5 gallons of water, then 30 ml vinegar, then 30 ml of bleach. Or for a smaller mix, 1 gallon of water, then 6 ml of vinegar, then 6 ml of bleach. (The bleach and vinegar order can be switched, so long as they are never mixed directly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is a more dilute solution than traditional bleach sanitizer, but it is equally effective due to the mild acidification. It is supposed to be no-rinse, but some brewers say even very small amounts of chlorine will form compounds we can smell, such as chlorophenols (supposedly detectable at 0.3 ppb). If this is correct, bleach is not an ideal solution unless rinsed or allowed to evaporate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8426" LastEditorUserId="8426" LastEditDate="2018-11-23T04:20:14.860" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T04:20:14.860" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6566" CreationDate="2014-11-10T11:48:50.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That stuffs all good, but I prefer lemon peels- no rind, lemon juice and vodka jarred for 3-6 months. Then I dilute with water, lemon juice, water and more sugar (that will ferment) with yeast. Ferment until close to zeroed and bottle. It's like a carbonated, dry limoncello. *Sometimes adding vodka mixture with hard lemon for a much more bubbly drink- and maybe a % or 2 more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*adding just a little of a finished carbonated hard lemonade with the &quot;limoncello&quot; mixture can make a refreshing yet STRONG drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should also note bobtooce's recipe and semi traditional methods are very similar to the blending process of this drink- looking for a good Ph and ability to find flavor, carbonation, along with a drink that can taste amazing and be anywhere from 12%-25%....next to cleanliness timing is everything, as this beverage can carbonate extremely quickly.. I'm trying to use slightly pressurized airlocks to allow Co2 release while still developing carbonation.... They're ridiculously large, and I've used everything from food safe gels to less successful pressurized balloons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8428" LastEditorUserId="8428" LastEditDate="2014-11-10T12:15:19.793" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T12:15:19.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-10T16:42:49.523" Score="2" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made my first home brew batch using an off the shelf starter kit (English brown ale).  The beer is much sweeter than I was expecting and the alcohol content is ~3-3.5% (should be 4.5%).  Am I right in thinking that this may be because the yeast hasn't worked to its full potential meaning that the sugar may not have been converted to alcohol?  If this is the case could this be because the yeast is old?  Is there any other potential reason why my beer is overly sweet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8429" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T20:03:36.593" Title="First homebrew batch very sweet" Tags="|yeast|sugar|first-time|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-10T17:21:23.243" Score="3" ViewCount="1001" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on build a cooler-based jockey box to drink my kegged beers. And was thinking what's the different things in a beer tap/faucet? I'm having trouble to find one with reasonable price in my town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that some faucets have 'cream function', or 'flow control' diferences, material finishes (stainless, chrome plated, brass, plastic..) but the standard/basic type just allow you to on/off your flow of beer. Rigth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I simple choose other kind of tap to put on my draft box? That's just a matter of style or its needed by some reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastEditorUserId="3528" LastEditDate="2014-11-10T20:55:36.663" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T17:45:17.203" Title="What makes a beer tap/faucet different from the water ones?" Tags="|kegging|diy|serving|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13214" CreationDate="2014-11-10T18:47:48.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast could be old. Sometimes those off the shelf kits can be really old, but all the ones I am familiar with come with dry yeast and those packs should be good for over a year, unless the pack got super hot, or a bad batch of yeast, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other potential issues with a higher finish gravity could be: the yeast isn't finished, so allow more time before bottling, especially if bottling in glass bottles as you can get &quot;bottle bombs&quot; that blow up if the yeast start eating your priming sugar and the CO2 generated exceeds the limit of the bottles. Taking longer than &quot;expected&quot; could be attributed to many things, some common ones: Perhaps you did not pitch enough yeast, or the temperature you fermented at was below the common temperature threshold for the yeast, usually under lows 60 for most ales and the fermentation slows. Although, those directions tend to be a little eager for bottling, I haven't moved a beer out of a primary fermenter in less than 3 weeks in years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt this is the issue, but if you have a type of yeast attenuates (% of sugar in the beer a yeast eats) much less than most yeast can cause sweet beer. Meaning the yeast will only eat so much of sugar before it stops fermenting. Most of the time this won't make as big of difference as your describing, but I figured I'd add it for completeness sake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason why you can get overly sweet beer, and this is rare for general beer making and requires an extra step in your process, is is you add potassium sorbate or something similar to purposefully stop yeast activity. Substances like this are often used when making sweet wines and campaigns. I've never seen one in a beer kit, though, so this is probably not the case, but if someone were to add it too early, the yeast would not be able to eat all the sugar once the sorbate is added, hence, sweeter beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep trying to get the gravity lower, you can wait longer, move the primary to a warmer place (~65 degrees for ales, is a good general temp), or pitch some more yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T18:47:48.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13018" CreationDate="2014-11-10T21:43:49.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife is a bit like you and while we do more actual juice wines we have done about 20 boxed wine must kits. It's ok to wait, in fact if you wait long enough there is no need to &quot;stabilize&quot; aka, adding potassium sorbate and finings. You're fine with it after long enough. A big reason these wine kits come with all the stabilizers is so they can claim the ready to drink in x amount of days on the box. We've followed the directions to a &quot;T&quot; years ago when starting out but now it goes something like this, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start wine by following directions, let sit 14-21 days. Rack. Forget to do the other X amount of racks and let sit a 2-3 months, bottle. Let sit another 2-3 months.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind, some of those fining actually require a yeast cake (that is then stirred up in the carboy) to help everything settle out. So waiting too long and transferring too often defeats the purpose of even using the finings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T21:43:49.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13202" CreationDate="2014-11-11T01:09:37.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is very possible and is basically how cask ale is made, minus the fact that cask ale does not allow extra CO2 to be injected to force a bit of carbonation and push the beer out without a pump -- which you can easily do with the CO2 injector of your mini keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also exactly how the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beermachine.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Machine&lt;/a&gt; product works (I am not affiliated with them, just a happy customer). It's worth looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beermachine.com/downloads/Assemby-Brewing-Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;instructions&quot; booklet for that product&lt;/a&gt;. I have 2 of these plastic kegs and they work very well. It should be simple to adapt the mini keg to ferment and carbonate in one container the way they suggest for the Beer Machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawbacks are that you will have to monitor the natural carbonation carefully, and then clean the keg of the spent yeast afterwards. But other than that, the process is fairly simple and straightforward, assuming that you consume the beer before the yeast begins to impart off flavours, which might happen after a month or so after fermentation. But it would be hard to believe that any beer would be left in your mini keg after that amount of time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, yes, it's a very traditional method and one that turns out to be simple and very efficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T01:09:37.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13215" CreationDate="2014-11-11T03:50:59.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ball valves should work fine.  However consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turbulence causes CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; to come out of solution. Faucets are designed to minimize this effect whereas ball valves &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ball valves will be difficult to clean and can harbour spoilage organisms.  Faucets have fewer places for such to hide and are easily disassembled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, give it a shot and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T03:50:59.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13215" CreationDate="2014-11-11T05:23:22.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For getting an optimal pour, you're best to go with a beer faucet. For the best flow with the least amount of foam, the tap should be fully open, or it will agitate the beer causing lots of foam. Other taps may have too small an opening, causing the beer to gush out or be agitated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also aesthetics - the beer taps have been engineered to look good, and shaped to direct the beer into the glass at the appropriate angle. This is not the case with non-beer taps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other taps will work, but possibly not as well. If you have another tap to try, then give it a shot, and see how you like the pour you get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T05:23:22.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13215" CreationDate="2014-11-11T13:34:13.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Standard plastic 'cobra' or 'picnic' faucets are fairly cheap.  They won't mount to the side of a jockey box but if price really is the primary issue then at least these work.  You can drill a hole and pass the tubing through them.  The hole can then be used for a proper faucet in the future.  I think some of the other non beer related options will create too much foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/products/hand-held-beer-faucet.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Example of a picnic faucet.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T13:34:13.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13215" CreationDate="2014-11-11T17:21:24.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer has a relatively low pH, usually around 3-4. As it's acidic, it can be more reactive with certain materials. Chrome-finished faucets, in particular, will over time have the chrome finish stripped off. As well, faucets need to be cleaned regularly, so the ability of the material to stand up to chemical and/or mechanical cleaning is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-11-11T17:45:17.203" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T17:45:17.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13227" CreationDate="2014-11-11T17:38:42.793" Score="0" ViewCount="2729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a batch of apple cider that started at 1.050, and has fermented to 1.000.&#xA;Would adding sugar to increase ABV ruin my batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to add roughly 1Kg/ 10L of cider. Adding half now and the other half when it slows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8434" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T18:24:09.143" Title="Restarting fermentation after it has stopped?" Tags="|cider|sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13224" CreationDate="2014-11-11T17:50:22.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you will have any issues with it. If you are concerned about sanitation you could always make a syrup by boiling the sugar with water, letting it cool then throwing it the cider. You could always just throw in without. I'm a pretty big sanitation Nazi, but when I make cider, i just throw in simple white sugar straight from the bag, and when i use honey in my beers I simply squeeze the bottle into my primary. At the very least, stir it in with a sanitized spoon. It would also probably be a good idea to throw in a 1/2 tsp or so of yeast nutrient, to help kick off and ensure fermentation starts. The container will tell you specifically how much to add. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 pound of sugar is roughly 1 point ABV for a 5 gallon batch of cider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T17:50:22.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-11T18:12:38.893" Score="3" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying my hand at a sour mash, and was thinking about using a keg to hold the warm mash for a few days so I can purge the 02 and very lightly pressure to avoid contamination. I was thinking about placing a space heater in my fermentation chamber that can keep the keg at around 110 degrees for 2-3 days. I plan on mashing the entire grist of a new Wit recipe I created. Has anyone done this before and experienced anything to watch out for? For instance, how hard is it to clear out the intake and output tubes after this? I was planning on a long soak of Idophor after this to sanitize, would I need to take further precautions not to infect future batches? Has anyone found a different approach that would work better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T20:23:08.410" Title="Sour Mash - Pressurized Keg to hold mash?" Tags="|sour|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13224" CreationDate="2014-11-11T18:24:09.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your success will be affected mostly by the health of the yeast in the cider. If the yeast are healthy and vibrant, the added sugar should ferment quickly. If the yeast are less healthy, there may be a long delay before fermentation starts, it may proceed slowly, or it may even not start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary contributor to yeast health is age. How long has it been since active fermentation ceased? If the yeast has been sitting at the bottom of the fermentor, you might have some problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're at all concerned, you're safest route is to pitch new yeast with the added sugar. Rehydrate as per the instructions on the packet, make sure the cider is within the yeast's optimum temperature range, and then pitch after adding the sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T18:24:09.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12898" CreationDate="2014-11-12T01:13:42.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quickly put this into brew smith see if I didn't screw something up. Disclaimer. I'm not a batch sparge brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash in with 33.20 qt water at 168.2 degrees F 45 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 step batch sparge. 1 drain. 2 add 15.9 qt at 168. 3 add another 15.9 qt water at 168.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T01:13:42.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13181" CreationDate="2014-11-12T05:43:37.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the fruit. In The Art of Fermentation, Sandor Katz lists some fruits that will tend to go bad if they're left in the ferment for very long--soft fruits, like cantaloupe, watermelon, papayas, and bananas are the examples he gave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8426" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T05:43:37.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13202" CreationDate="2014-11-12T16:10:16.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you could not use 5-liter mini-kegs for a pressurized fermentation UNLESS you could replace the top bung with something like a Spundling valve, or perhaps a cask-conditioning style bung with a shive, and then you would knock out the shive at the appropriate time with a porous spile that would allow excess gas to vent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find the pressure rating of a mini-keg, but it certainly could not contain the gas from a full fermentation, and the rubber bungs available in the U.S. do not have built-in pressure relief valves. I have seen several mini-kegs where the mini-keg bulged or the seam failed due to excess pressure, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&amp;amp;v=8ZGKhHe_L5Q#t=438&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;for example in this vidoe&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brouwland.com/en/pdf/058.023.2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; from the EU would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't think you would want to conduct primary fermentation in the mini-keg because you will end up with a lot of unwanted trub in your serving vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, it is a standard practice in homebrewing to use these for &quot;bottle&quot;-conditioning: transferring your fermented beer into a mini-keg with priming sugar, and allowing the beer to naturally carbonate, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/media/downloads/274/Mini%20Keg%20Care%20and%20Feeding.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;explained in this info sheet from Midwest Supplies&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T22:30:19.123" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T22:30:19.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13236" CreationDate="2014-11-12T18:23:41.630" Score="3" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I don't have a jockey box, I'm borrowed another one again. And I'm having trouble to get a good pour. There are bubbles in the system that never ends, it never happened before to me. Always after some glasses the system became stable, but this moment never comes with this setup, and the beer is 'choking' when leaving the faucet, till the end of the keg. Any clue? The keg and gas tank/line are the same, and my carbonation process too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T13:52:27.123" Title="Why my beer is 'choking' when leaving the faucet?" Tags="|kegging|co2|gas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13232" CreationDate="2014-11-12T19:46:09.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The system sounds to be unbalanced.  If the inner diameter of the chilling coil in the jockey box is different than the one you've used before then the resistance is certainly off creating the unbalanced performance.  A lot of foam and sputtering output at the faucet is normally caused by too low a serving pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say up the pressure and see what you get.  You may want to open the faucet and slowly dial up the pressure to see it improve with while pouring.  Then stop when its right. You may think this is a waste of beer, but you are wasting beer as foam anyway so it can't hurt that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T19:46:09.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13235" CreationDate="2014-11-12T22:39:39.150" Score="2" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making an Xmas brew. So far so good with the primary fermentation (this is my 4th beer so no worries there). It's an ale brewed with 2.5 lbs of grains and dry malt extract (only 8 AAU hops). I've bought the following ingredients for secondary fermentation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;madigascar bourbon vanilla beans&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whole nutmeg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cinnamon sticks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2oz oak wood chips (which have been soaking in bourbon for a week)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My batch is 5 gallons. What amounts of each of these ingredients should I place in the secondary to ensure that they don't overpower the beer? And how should I prepare each item for secondary? I read something about &quot;scraping the vanilla beans and cinnamon sticks&quot; - what does that mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer stats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG 1.054&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FG 1.014&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IBUs 20-25&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SRM ~10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8116" LastEditorUserId="8116" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T14:41:53.787" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T14:41:53.787" Title="Xmas Brew Ingredients" Tags="|ingredients|secondary-fermentation|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13234" CreationDate="2014-11-13T01:07:44.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the vanilla, make a tincture of extract by taking 1 to 2 onces of vodka then split and scrape the insides of the vanilla and place it int the vodka. Let it sit a week or 2 before throwing in. I like to do this on brew day then I pour the extract in the secondary after I rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the cinnamon sticks I boil 1 to 1.25 onces for 60 minutes. I've read this is what great lakes brewery does with their Christmas ale. You can also add more later the secondary. Simply measure out the sticks until you get the weight you want then toss directly in at 60 minutes. Some people like to put them in spice bags for way retrieval but this is optional&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nutmeg can be irritatingly powerful. I suggest start with a few gratings (simply grate using the small holes of any kitchen grater)of the fresh nutmeg wait a few days taste and adjust. If you're not careful you can make a nutmeg bomb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things to try for a Christmas ale, fresh ginger just peel and throw in whole with the cinnamon for a 60 minute boil roughly .75 once. Any orange peel is nice too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have the oak cubes covered already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastEditorUserId="3647" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T01:14:29.240" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T01:14:29.240" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13232" CreationDate="2014-11-13T19:45:23.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've changed the faucet, the coil, the serving pressure, put more gas, purge some gas, removed the gas line, and nothing makes difference on the 'choking' thing, just on foam ammount and beer flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I remembered one tip that I've read on other question here in StackExchange sometime (and was not able to find it again to share now). It was a question on drink from a keg without gas tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I've changed the liquid-out quick disconnect to my gas-in, and lay my keg above the jockey box. Both on the table, but the keg layed on a chair, with the beer line plugged in the gas-in hole. And with no CO2 attached, just let the beer flow by gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this moment I've understanded that my problem was in the keg. In the liquid side, to be more accurate. Don't know yet if it was the post sealing, or the poppet, or the dip tube that maybe was clogged, but the thing that was 'choking' my beer was in the 'liquid side' of the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its very good to know that this technic works so well. After that we just drinked the beer with very good pour. When the beer is ending, you can just upside down the keg or make your possible to put the gas hole where the beer want to be by gravity force and wait it flows by your iced coil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: All rigth, people, after 2 more utilizations of my system with the same keg and a just fine pouring, I can attest that the problem was the liquid diptube. I changed it with other keg sigthly different. When disassembling for cleaning I've mixed them. The other keg remained with beer on the bottom, and these was with the tube so pressed to the bottom. So the 'choking thing' was just the beer having a bad time to pass through. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastEditorUserId="3528" LastEditDate="2014-12-11T13:52:27.123" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T13:52:27.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13242" CreationDate="2014-11-14T09:01:16.247" Score="0" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to produce an extreme low alcohol (&amp;lt;0.5%) sparkling iced tea, but carbonated with yeast / bottle conditioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I obviously can't make the tea sweet before carbonation for fear of over carbonating but I want a sweetened result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess what I need is a sugar with a high amount of unfermentable sugars, should I use DME?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastEditorUserId="103" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T09:34:12.713" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T14:49:55.143" Title="What sugar for a sparkling iced tea?" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13238" CreationDate="2014-11-14T11:17:54.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is called &quot;back sweetening&quot;, and you can look it up for a more authoritative answer than mine. As far as I know there are three approaches (purely from reading books and recipes, I've never actually back-sweetened myself):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add sugar right before you drink it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add non-fermentable sugars or sweeteners. I've seen lactose most commonly recommended.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deactivate or kill the yeast before adding sugar, either by keeping it very cold or by adding a preservative.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8426" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T11:17:54.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-14T14:19:39.987" Score="1" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to be brewing the Zymurgy KBS clone, but a little nervous with some of the additions listed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2.5 oz Belg Bittersweet Choc and 1.5 oz unsweetened cocoa nibs @ 15 mins.&#xA;      ***I read that adding straight chocolate to the boil will kill the head retention due to the oils.  Can I cold crash the primary and skim the oil layer before racking into the second?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;adding 2 oz of GROUND Sumatran coffee @ Flameout.  Will this be tooooooo bitter?  I will also be adding 2 oz of cold brewed Kona to the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the recipe for those interested:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tWH00.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tWH00.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T18:43:29.407" Title="Chocolate and Coffee Additions" Tags="|all-grain|bitterness|coffee|head-retention|chocolate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13238" CreationDate="2014-11-14T15:06:08.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're on the right track, but DME is around 80% fermentable, so you wouldn't get much residual sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a blend of lactose and sucrose (table sugar) might work. The sucrose will ferment producing a small amount of alcohol and carbon dioxide. The lactose will not ferment and will provide residual sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try an artificial sweetener instead of lactose. Personally, I've never found an artificial sweetener that I like, but tastes vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find online &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;priming calculators&lt;/a&gt; that will tell you how much sucrose to use. As for the quantity of lactose, you'll probably need to experiment a bit to get it to your taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T14:49:55.143" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T14:49:55.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13238" CreationDate="2014-11-14T15:08:55.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have faced this issue when making soda.  What I did, that seemed to work, was mix everything, including all sweetener/fermentable and all yeast, and place into a bottle (I was using a 2-liter plastic bottle).  I let it ferment at room temperature in the sealed bottle for 2 days, and then cold crashed it to stop fermentation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how much risk there is of explosions by moving this to glass bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8205" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T15:08:55.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13241" CreationDate="2014-11-14T16:33:46.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just boost the dextrins in the beer knowing that you will have additional oils from the chocolate (and the coffee).  While its a good idea, I'm not sure cold-crashing/skimming would get all of the oil as a lot of it may still be dissolved in solution.  Add some oats, extra flaked barley and/or dextrin malt to the mash.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the coffee choice and method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sumatras can be, well, simply WEIRD due to the wet processing/hulling methods they use at the origin.  Professional cuppers get some really strange flavors from a lot of the producers there, which for many coffee snobs is desirable as they can have loads of character/depth.  When using coffee in a beer though, what most people want is a 'roasty' flavor without being acrid.  This is more dependent on the level of roasting of the beans than the origin, but I would use something that is more of a 'classic cup', such as Colombian, Guatelmalan or Costa Rican.  You want to make sure you have a light-to-medium roast though ideally, as it will add some brightness/acidity and light roasty flavors to complement the roasted barley/black patent.  What's also key is HOW RECENTLY it was roasted prior to cold brewing it.  The closer the better.  And grind the beans right before you brew with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that cold-brewing the coffee gives a far more robust and pleasant flavor than adding beans/grounds to the kettle or fermenter, so you're right-on there.  Cold brew it and add the resulting extract at packaging after sampling the beer with different levels of coffee extract added.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a home coffee-roaster and full-throttle coffee snob along with my brewing hobby!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T16:33:46.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13214" CreationDate="2014-11-14T20:03:36.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several problems can be occurred, one that is very common in the first brewing is temperature control, mainly if using stainless steel kettles. You can denatured enzymes heating the wort above the enzyme range activity. Did you made iodine test to measure starch conversion into sugars ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T20:03:36.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13252" CreationDate="2014-11-15T16:40:03.427" Score="1" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to homebrewing, and I've recently encountered a problem with an s-shaped airlock. I clean it out with water after use, but it takes forever to dry on its own. This time, it's started growing mold inside after washing it out. Is there some way to dry out the airlock to prevent this sort of mold growth? I imagine if I cleaned it out with vodka or something similar, it would prevent such growth, but I'd prefer to clean with water, because it's essentially free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8450" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T03:36:57.307" Title="Mold in S-Shaped Airlock" Tags="|cleaning|airlock|mold|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13247" CreationDate="2014-11-15T18:01:10.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's ill-advised to take any shortcuts with cleaning or sanitation, even with an airlock.  Clean it with PBW (powdered brewery wash) or OxiClean solutions prepared according to the directions on either package; alternatively, use un-scented chlorine bleach.  Whatever is used, soak for a couple hours, and rinse thoroughly with clean water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8319" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T18:01:10.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10222" CreationDate="2014-11-15T18:02:47.953" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not ferment in a bottling bucket with a spigot.  The spigot eventually leaks after 2 or 3 fermentations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8451" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T18:02:47.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13251" CreationDate="2014-11-15T22:31:13.380" Score="2" ViewCount="852" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started my first batch of homebrew using a kit from Brooklyn Brew Shop, and 15 hours in, I seem to have a problem: The fermentation seems to be very vigorous and I have this foam/gunk/residue that has made its way into my blowoff tube (pictures attached). As of this writing, it looks like some wort has also gotten into my jar of sanitizer as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned about this? Is this a contamination risk?  At this point would it be better to clean out the blowoff tube, or would I be better off waiting for the fermentation to subside and to replace the blowoff tube with the airlock a couple of days later as recommended in the instructions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/pushbullet-uploads/ujxuRC4rYC4-KsxhDhkGMaX7b4DgJbebtdJ7fVCw5jPL/IMG_20141115_125010.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://s3.amazonaws.com/pushbullet-uploads/ujxuRC4rYC4-KsxhDhkGMaX7b4DgJbebtdJ7fVCw5jPL/IMG_20141115_125010.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/pushbullet-uploads/ujxuRC4rYC4-gnjP2CTuxXoIO3m2Cjq5kOJ2f9Mw70VJ/IMG_20141115_125016.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://s3.amazonaws.com/pushbullet-uploads/ujxuRC4rYC4-gnjP2CTuxXoIO3m2Cjq5kOJ2f9Mw70VJ/IMG_20141115_125016.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8453" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T18:50:24.110" Title="Fermenter overflow into blowoff tube" Tags="|blow-off-tube|red-ale|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13250" CreationDate="2014-11-15T22:43:21.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No worries. This is exactly the point of a blow-off tube: to blow-off excess fermentation products (krausen and wort trapped in the bubbles) in a controlled, &quot;sanitary&quot; way. There's basically no contamination risk. Swap out the contents of the blowoff &lt;em&gt;container&lt;/em&gt; if it gets too nasty, starts attracting fruit flies, &amp;amp;c.  But leave the blow-off tube in place until fermentation subsides. At that point, as you say, probably best to replace it with an airlock, or just cover with tin foil or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T18:50:24.110" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T18:50:24.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13247" CreationDate="2014-11-16T16:55:49.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple of things if you plan to keep using these air locks it's fine to rinse everything with water but run sanitizer through it. I keep sanitizer on hand in a spray bottle for all sorts of things. Try spraying a generous amount in the air lock after rincing gunk out of them. It might not be &quot;free&quot; but throwing out a bad batch because of an infestation is way more expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If however you can see any gunk in there you need to get it out of the airlock before storing and you'll need to use a cleaner. I like oxyclean because it's cheap and works well. Fill a small container and emerge the lock in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second suggestion would be to switch to a blow off tube or 3 piece airlock as IMO they are easier to clean as their are no s traps for crud to be trapped in. I prefer the s shaped locks for secondaries only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastEditorUserId="3647" LastEditDate="2014-11-16T17:39:52.173" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T17:39:52.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13247" CreationDate="2014-11-17T03:36:57.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get very close to free with using a little diluted dollar store bleach. When you rinse it, rinse it well, then take a blow dryer and run it through the airlock for a few minutes and it will be dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8456" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T03:36:57.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12867" CreationDate="2014-11-17T03:49:12.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2nd most popular beer uses 002, we have this issue too. It just flocculates like no other yeast. We bought a stopper with no holes. On Days 2, 4, and 6 of primary we pick up the carboy and shake it into a fury.. ~5 minutes of real agitation. We do 14 days of primary so it's always clear by transfer to secondary time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does the trick for us, although I want try the krauzening technique Codehopper mentions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also thought about making a custom stir plate we could set a carboy in just for our one beer. It wouldn't aerate but it would stop settling. We tried other yeasts but nothing brings out the flavors we're looking for like 002.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8456" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T03:49:12.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13269" CreationDate="2014-11-17T03:53:25.897" Score="3" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a very tiny house. I brew in the garage and bottle there. I want to keg so bad but I am having trouble finding room for some kegs (in something to keep them cold). Anyone have some genius idea to store a kegging system in my house that would hold at least 2 kegs, if not 3+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details: single story on a crawl, anything outdoors will freeze, I have an attic and I'm not afraid to use it or the crawl, but I don't know what is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8456" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T19:36:05.483" Title="How to fit kegging into a small house" Tags="|kegging|corny-keg|kegerator|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13259" CreationDate="2014-11-17T07:39:40.183" Score="0" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering to buy a 16 liter kettle to hold the grain inside my 32 liter kettle, but don't seem to find any reliable calculations on how much grain the 16 liter kettle will fit while mashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone here have a formula for calculating the maximum grain in a container?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2409" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T15:09:10.820" Title="How much grain will fit in a 16 liter kettle?" Tags="|all-grain|mash-volume|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-17T12:14:53.380" Score="3" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;Porter, sitting at a steady 22 degrees, should be 5.2% abv, fermentation stopped at 2.5%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stir took it to 3.5% over a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added yeast, and nutrient, no sign of further fermentation 2 days on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I leave this, how long for? or can I try something else to coax it up to 5.2% ?&#xA;Somebody suggested kegging and just leaving it, ideally I'd see this brew through to bottling in next 5 days as wish to free up my brew bucket for the next xmas brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8117" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T13:12:49.333" Title="Stuck fermentation - how long to leave it for?" Tags="|yeast|stuck-fermentation|porter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13257" CreationDate="2014-11-17T13:16:36.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd heat it up for a while.  In general, you do get better quality if you wait it out at a lower temperature, but if it's a question of whether you get the next brew down or not, and your brew is currently not moving at all, then it seems worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do is to just run hot water into the laundry tub with the brew bucket sitting in it.  You can easily boost the temperature to 30ish degrees for a few hours this way, which usually gets the brew moving.  Sometimes I have to do it a couple of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume it does cost you some of the aromatic compounds, but a porter is a pretty robust sort of beer, so I wouldn't worry too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very often the case that your sugar is not properly dissolved and is sitting on the bottom.  I brew in glassware, so it's easy to see that.  You might find that giving your brew a good slosh around helps.  My approach is to get a circular motion going, and keep that up for 5-10 mins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7965" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T13:16:36.107" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13256" CreationDate="2014-11-17T15:09:10.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the &quot;Can I mash it?&quot; calculator at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to that, 8 kg of grain will fit with enough water for 1.25 liters/kg mash thickness with .64 liters of headspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6533" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T15:09:10.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12972" CreationDate="2014-11-18T02:24:44.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Butter Buds may be a good option for you. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.butterbuds.com/home.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.butterbuds.com/home.html&lt;/a&gt;)&#xA;It has a very buttery flavor. It is fat free which means it won't kill your head retention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I haven't brewed with it, I have brewed with fat free peanut butter powder for my peanut butter chocolate stout and it worked very well. You should be able to find Butter Buds online, or maybe even in a store near you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8456" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T02:24:44.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-18T07:25:36.247" Score="2" ViewCount="811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made 10 litres of red wine ( pasteurized grape juice from the supermarket ), added 2kg sugar, used yeast bought from my local homebrew shop.&#xA;Fermentation started after a day, and for the first two weeks, i had vigorous activity in the airlock.&#xA;My problem is, its now been a month, and while the airlock activity has slowed down, it has not stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't this mean that the yeast is still working, and there is still sugar for it to digest?&#xA;Should i wait for the airlock activity to stop completely before racking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8460" LastEditorUserId="8460" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T07:31:21.153" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T13:05:40.233" Title="When will fermentation end? ( wine )" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|red-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13261" CreationDate="2014-11-18T13:05:40.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to check the gravity of the must/wine to see if fermentation has finished.  Specific gravity tells you about the residual sugar in the must/wine.  Specific gravity is measured with a hydrometer.  (If you know about this then disregard)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bubbling can be from dissolved CO2 in solution.  It will come out of the wine as the temperature fluctuates or if you move the wine.  It is not an indicator that there is still active fermentation happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making wine it is standard to rack the wine into a secondary vessel to get it off the yeast and also to degas the CO2 by active stirring.  This is when its a good time to check the gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T13:05:40.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13257" CreationDate="2014-11-18T13:12:49.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing how your beer is at 22-23 degrees, I think the issues are more yeast related.  Rousing the yeast one more time to see what you get might be your only option.  I usually let the beers I brew go for two weeks, often three, before I check them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try and get a small active starter going with some fresh yeast.  Say in a growler with a 1.030 DME based wort.  Once that comes to a krausen point pitch the whole thing in the beer.  Pitching dry yeast alone into a beer really doesn't get it moving again too harsh an environment on the dry yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, I'd just say chalk it up to a loss and bottle it.  Just be vigilant that the bottles don't over carbonate and become a liability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T13:12:49.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13255" CreationDate="2014-11-18T13:14:49.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you need to carve out some space in the living room for a simple two tap towered mini fridge.  Professionally made ones can be quite attractive and will normally hold two kegs and the CO2 tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T13:14:49.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13255" CreationDate="2014-11-18T16:57:46.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure what your setup is, but depending on your setup and if you were desperate and handy you &lt;i&gt;could&lt;/i&gt; store a beer fridge/freezer in some sort of non-living area and, assuming it's close where you want to drink, run tubing and shanks through the walls.  I saw something similar years ago on a brewing forum where the guy put a beer freezer in a utility room off his finished basement bar and ran lines through the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8330" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T16:57:46.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-19T02:36:20.720" Score="3" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after two weeks of primary and secondary fermentation, I racked my beer and put it in the fridge by mistake. It has been in there for about 5 days. It's my first brew. I took them out and put them in a cellar for now. Is my beer ruined? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;)(J&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IPA 1Gallon Batch. &#xA;Wyeast American Ale 1056 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8462" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T20:07:04.490" Title="Bottle conditioning mistake" Tags="|fermentation|conditioning|bottle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13277" CreationDate="2014-11-19T02:56:17.163" Score="2" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to determine how low I can drill a hole in my kettle for a spigot. I've read as few as 1.5 to as much as 3.0 inches. What's a good point that will clear the kettle trub for most if not all beers, taking into account higher OG beers/hops beers, without clearing it too much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters, I'll be brewing on an induction cooktop, so I won't have to worry about the heat from a propane flame on the spigot. Does this change the equation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit -- Obviously this would depend on the size of the kettle and the typical size of a batch. I have a 10 gallon kettle and will be brewing 5 gallon batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-11-19T23:45:59.530" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T14:08:18.047" Title="How low should the hole for a spigot on a kettle be drilled?" Tags="|all-grain|kettle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13266" CreationDate="2014-11-19T04:23:12.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take it from the title that you added the priming sugar and bottled the beer, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; put it in the fridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case, you'll probably be OK. Just let the beer come up to room temperature and leave them alone for two weeks. Open one and see if it's carbonated. If it is, job well done. Relax and drink your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the yeast was knocked back by the cold temperatures, and never came back. Buy some a packet of dry yeast. Open each bottle and add two or three grains of yeast. Re-cap and store at room temperature for two weeks. You should then have carbonated beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T04:23:12.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13255" CreationDate="2014-11-19T06:16:48.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Option 1: Kegerator. Can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bought&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewreviewcrew.com/how-to-build-kegerator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;built&lt;/a&gt; (google for DIY Kegerators and you will see many more options). Building gives you the option to find a fridge that fits into a random corner and holds the amount of kegs you require. Chest freezers (&lt;a href=&quot;http://billybrew.com/how-to-build-a-keezer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;keezer&lt;/a&gt;) make great kegerators and they can still be a table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 2: Store the kegs in the attic, run pipes to your taps. Use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebeerkeg.co.za/catalog/dispensing-home-brew-kegging/beer-dispensing-cold-plate-single-tap.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cold plate&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jockey_box&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;jockey box&lt;/a&gt; to chill the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 3: Same as option 2, but use an electric chiller. Those tend to be quite expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that your kegs should be stored upright and that you have to have your CO2 closeby. (There are exceptions to both).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would first find out if I have place for a fridge/kegerator/keezer or if you have to store the kegs (and CO2) in some other location. Ask the wife is she agrees :) Now decide if the location is good for serving beer. If not, work out how to get the beer to a (again, wife approved) beer dispensing location. Decide if the beer will be chilled in keg storage location or beer dispensing location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T06:16:48.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-19T09:45:22.343" Score="1" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fermentation bucket is on top of my washing machine, when it spins it vibrates the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been careful to clamp it to the back of the washing machine with a bungee otherwise it might shake off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just want to check that this is a good thing, presuming this agitation is good for the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8117" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T17:14:15.390" Title="Homebrew sitting on top of washing machine - agitation" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13270" CreationDate="2014-11-19T12:44:16.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the first stage of fermentation it could be some good. Yeast needs oxygen to the growth phase, when building membrane and other things needed to increase the cell count. When this oxygen is over, then the yeast can take its anaerobian way, and produce alcohol and carbon dioxide, which is needed for beer making.&#xA;But if you shake your wort vigorously some seconds/splash it to your fermentor before you leave it alone, you get a good enough amount of oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you never stop agitating it, &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; it could over-oxygenate your brew, or oxygenate after complete atenuation - &lt;em&gt;don't know&lt;/em&gt; if it makes sense considering a very leak proof fermentor; after some time the whole atmosfery of the fermentor would be carbon dioxide, considering that tight environment. But any oxygen after the end of fermentation could feed beer spoilers that you don't want. And I don't know what would happen to your alcohol production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;But nonetheless&lt;/em&gt;, you want to settle solid things of your wort, including dead/inactive yeast cells. So, even if it was good to yeast growth phase, you would need to leave it alone after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think it is a bad idea. If it is a matter of space, you could put a shelf above your machine, or build a rack that envolve it like an outside frame but don't touch it. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T12:44:16.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13270" CreationDate="2014-11-19T15:20:46.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would also be concerned with the washing machine's effect on your wort temperature.  If you use hot water &quot;for your whites&quot;, that heat will rise, right into your fermenter.  Where I live, (Florida) keeping the wort cool is a real challenge, especially during the first few days of fermenting when the alcholol level is not yet high enough to limit yeast growth; off flavors plague me when I let new yeast breed too fast.  Might be different where you live, but its still worth consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T15:20:46.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13266" CreationDate="2014-11-19T16:27:59.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I highly doubt that immediately refrigerating your bottled beer (which was already fermented) damaged it at all. Cold temperatures &quot;shock&quot; yeast, basically making it inactive. So, the bottles probably have not yet carbonated (which is when the yeast eats the priming sugar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just take them out of the fridge, put them in a room somewhere, and within a few days they should be back to carbonating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a week or so, pick a test bottle and put it in the fridge, then crack and drink it when it's cold - should taste good (hopefully).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future skip the fridge after bottling (as you already know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8116" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T16:27:59.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13270" CreationDate="2014-11-19T18:59:51.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know the answer, but vibration and agitation are not the same thing.  I don't think the vibration from the washer will do much to keep yeast in suspension.  I do think I read once that vibration can stress yeast out.  But at what frequency I don't think that is clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T18:59:51.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13266" CreationDate="2014-11-19T20:07:04.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally did this the first time I brewed. My beer turned out just fine. It took longer for the carbonation to take than it did without putting it in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8466" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T20:07:04.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13267" CreationDate="2014-11-20T14:08:18.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say 1.5&quot; is plenty high. I have a 7.5 gal kettle that came with a spigot positioned about 2.5&quot; above the bottom and I almost always found that I had to tip the kettle to get all the wort out. Depending on your chilling method, if you can manage to allow the trub to settle out while chilling, or don't 'mind waiting 30 minutes or so after your done chilling, most of the big chunks are going to settle to the bottom anyways and you shouldn't have to worry about getting too much trub in your fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really worried about the amount of trub, you can always run off into your fermenter through some kind of screen / filter. I ferment in glass carboys, so when I run of out of my kettle I place a funnel in the neck of the carboy with a steel mesh strainer sitting in the funnel. I used to put a mesh hop bag in the strainer too, but I found that to be a little overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3990" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T14:08:18.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13270" CreationDate="2014-11-20T17:14:15.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It probably won't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agitating the wort to add oxygen is often a good idea (particularly with higher-gravity beers), but the washing machine won't give nearly enough agitation for that, and it is in any case only relevant &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the fermenter is closed. Once primary fermentation starts, any oxygen in the headspace will be flushed out by outgassing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for keeping the yeast in suspension, most yeast are not so flocculent that they'll drop out before fermentation is complete. You might &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; speed up fermentation by vibrating the wort in this way, but I doubt the difference would be measurable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7961" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T17:14:15.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-20T18:20:52.030" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cider started at 1.090 and seems to have stopped at 1.065. I put it in a secondary glass carboy. Do I need more time, it has been about three weeks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8471" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-25T01:22:26.793" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T01:22:26.793" Title="Fermentation seems to be stuck at 1.065" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13226" CreationDate="2014-11-20T20:23:08.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background: I've done a few full sour-mash witbiers. I really like the effect, though it's not an everyday sort of style. Try brewing just a gallon, in case you don't like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, worrying about contamination in a sour mash is sort of silly, because contamination &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; what sours the mash. Unless you're directly inoculating the mash with a pure lactobacillus culture, the bacteria will come from the handful of malt you add once the mash has been cooled from saccarification temperature. (Luckily witbier is supposed to be cloudy, so you don't need to worry about starch haze.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, as long as you limit oxygen (covering the mash with plastic wrap is sufficient) and keep the temperature in the right range, acetobacter and other sorts of &quot;not what I wanted&quot; fermentation will not be a big concern. Remember, the historical sour-mash witbier style far predates iodophor; the reason lactic fermentation dominates in that style is because lactobacillus is fairly aggressive, and will get to work long before anything else does. The most effective way to get good results is to taste regularly (every 8 hours or so). When you do so, try not to stir up the mash. A basting bulb can help here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for making sure that you don't forevermore brew only sour mashes, the good news is that lactobacillus doesn't sporulate, meaning it's easy to kill. I gave my mash souring kettle a good ten minutes of boiling afterwards, and some Starsan, and didn't have any issues with souring on subsequent brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7961" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T20:23:08.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13279" CreationDate="2014-11-20T20:25:54.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't notice any bubbles in your airlock then you should probably add new yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a good idea to put one of those little valves on your fermentation bucket. That way you can take SG without having to risk opening the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8472" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T20:25:54.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13279" CreationDate="2014-11-20T21:33:06.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You moved the cider to secondary too soon. Normally you want at least 65% attenuation to have been reached. Since apple juice ferments to nearly 1.000, that would be 1.030.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apple juice is low in nutrients, which the yeast require to metabolize sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide. I would suggest you move the cider back into the fermentor and add fresh yeast. Also add yeast nutrient and energizer, following the manufacturer's directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fermentation should kick off again with 48 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T21:33:06.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13283" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-21T02:18:49.137" Score="0" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just started a single can Geordie Winter Warmer kit and having read some negative reviews about this kit turning out &quot;weak&quot; and &quot;watery&quot; and like &quot;beer flavoured soda water&quot; I'm naturally having doubts about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Steps taken so far&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can of Geordie Winter Warmer&#xA;1kg dextrose (wish I'd used dme)&#xA;300g black treacle (I've read this can improve the body of a brew)*&#xA;100g honey*&#xA;100g muscovado sugar*&#xA;1tbsp ground cinnamon&#xA;1tsp ground ginger&#xA;(*=whatever sugary stuff I had left in the cupboard, basically - thought by adding this I could improve the OG which came out at 1038 @ 22litres...final OG was 1042)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast is off to a flying start and has around 3-4cm krausen on top about 7hours after pitching. Temperature is around 23 degrees celsius. In hindsight I would have brewed it much shorter at around 18 litres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Potential improvements?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An OG of 1042 is lower than what I would want for a full bodied winter warmer (first try - but having done some reading this does seem low) so I was wondering whether I could add some extra dark DME + yeast starter in stages as the fermentation subsides to try to raise the ABV and hopefully improve the malty body of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any suggestions of how else I could improve this potential Grinch of a winter warmer? Ideally I would like an ABV around 5-6% but more importantly a sweeter beer with plenty of malty body. Is it too late to do anything about this now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8474" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T05:12:21.607" Title="Improvements for Geordie Winter Warmer" Tags="|yeast-starters|original-gravity|kits|dme|body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13283" CreationDate="2014-11-21T04:29:20.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's too late for this beer in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding DME+water could work at a really high concentration. I have never done this, but there's no reason why that wouldn't work. But that seems more trouble than its worth to me. A new starter should not be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, you should have left the extra sugar out. That's just going to thin it out and take away what little malty qualities you had. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6533" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T04:29:20.740" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13291" CreationDate="2014-11-21T07:54:20.560" Score="1" ViewCount="1072" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started the hobby and only brewed two kits. So far I brewed in a 5L (1.3G) kettle. I did the chilling by using a cold bath in my kitchen sink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far so good. I plan to buy a proper brew kettle (30L/8G) but it wont fit in my sink. Therefore I'm looking for a chilling solution. I don't want to invest on any equipment and I can't plug an immersion chiller on my kitchen or bathroom faucet anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the no-chill solution which gave me the following idea: why not transfert the wort in 10L (2.5G) cubes that fits in my sink and cold bath them (I plan to brew 20L batches max so 2 cubes). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/articles/article56.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is written the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do not be tempted to cool the cube prematurely by putting it into a&#xA;  swimming pool or other body of water. Rapidly cooled hot packed wort&#xA;  can give rise to infections as it does not allow for the cube to be&#xA;  exposed to the hot wort for long enough to ensure that any bacteria in&#xA;  the cube is killed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long should I wait before cold bathing the cube so it's heat sanatized? (I think that's the reason why it should not be iced bath right away?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: It seems that my question question has been misunderstood. I don't specifically wants to do the no chill solution. I'm just looking for a way to do cold bath chilling with a kettle bigger than my sink. My other solution would be to find a big stainless buket to use for the cold bath. Or is there any plastic bucket than can handle the heat? (I'm afraid that if the hot kettle touch the bucket it would melt.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: I double check I can't screw an adaptaor on any of my faucets so I can't use an imersion chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8463" LastEditorUserId="8463" LastEditDate="2014-11-22T10:17:04.077" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T03:30:32.497" Title="Transfert wort in a cube then chill it" Tags="|chilling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13289" CreationDate="2014-11-21T16:19:40.553" Score="2" ViewCount="1998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the bottling phase with my first batch of beer.  Came home last night and one of the bottles had exploded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer spent 7 days in the primary fermenter and hit the target gravity per the kit.  Then 2 1/2 weeks in the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I transferred to the primary fermenter, I poured the liquid back and forth like the kit suggested and it resulted in a lot of foam so it was hard to tell how much water I needed to top off the batch with. By the end of the process I ended up with only 4 gallons instead of 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading here I think the issue was too much priming sugar (I used what came with the kit which was meant for 5 gallons) combined with storing them in a place that was a bit too warm.. The door to the room I was storing in got shut and furnace warmed it up more than I thought (72+ degrees).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I moved them to the fridge.  Was that the right thing to do?  If so, how long should I leave them in there before drinking?  They were only in the bottles for 5 days before one burst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8476" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T21:32:40.130" Title="First Batch Bottle Exploded" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-21T17:02:48.320" Score="1" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brown ale smelt somewhat like beer and possibly vinegar and tasted the same but with a very subtle sweetness but also very dry and puckering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used only used dry extract and boiled the hops, no grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7885" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T08:09:36.367" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T08:09:36.367" Title="trying to ID if my beer was infected!" Tags="|brewing|contamination|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13287" CreationDate="2014-11-21T17:42:35.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, yes, you did the right thing.  The residual yeast in solution that were eating the priming sugar and producing CO2 will go dormant when it gets cold.  Putting the beer in the fridge simply stopped any more natural carbonating so you can drink them at any point now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you thoroughly mix the priming sugar into the wort or did you just add it and then bottle?  I wonder if the priming sugar - which it sounds like there was probably too much of to begin with - exists more in some bottles than others.  The only thing you can really do at this point is to check a few bottles to see if they're overcarbonated and if there is variable carbonation.  I'd do that over a sink.  Some people may suggested re-bottling, but that would be an huge PITA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8330" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T17:42:35.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13287" CreationDate="2014-11-21T20:02:21.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Five gallons worth of priming sugar going into four gallons of beer is most likely your problem.  The possibility of inadequately stirring it into the beer before bottling (surprisingly not all that uncommon for beginners) may exasperate the problem to the point of bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If over-carbonation is a common problem for several of your bottles, you may consider relieve the pressure by re-capping them with extra caps.  Very slightly crack the seal of the cap with a bottle opener, let the pressure out slowly, wait a little bit, then take the whole cap off and recap it with a new one.  Just make sure you're suited up for bombs.  Seriously, put on your shades when you do it, throw some gloves on, and toss a kitchen towel over the bottle before you reach under it to break the seal on the cap.  Bottle bombs are terrifying for a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind they'll continue to ferment, even in the fridge, albeit slowly, so if you don't relieve the pressure, drink 'em quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T20:02:21.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13285" CreationDate="2014-11-21T20:06:06.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are going to use a cube for No Chilling, I just don't see any reason not to follow the vetted No Chill doctrine of the Aussies, which says, very clearly &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Do not be tempted to cool the cube prematurely&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. Hundreds of Aussie brewers pioneered this technique, and its &quot;common knowledge&quot; in that group that you can mess up and catch an infection in the cube if you mess with the hot tank before its near room temp. Personally, I No Chilled something like 40+ batches and my first failure came from dropping my wort down to 180F BEFORE I drained it into the cube. I'm not stating definitively that that was the cause, but it echos a lot of other No Chillers experiences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, pasteurization of the flat surfaces inside the cube happens within 15minute or so, but we aren't just pasteurizing the liquid itself or the surface of the cube; you are also waiting for the inner rings of the screw-on cap to heat up as well, which doesn't happen instantly as plastic isn't super conductive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;: I'd give the tank at least an hour from the time you fill it before you start to chill it if you are in  an absolute rush, but it would be preferable to wait overnight, per the &quot;standard&quot; No Chill practice. And make sure you turn the tank so that it's on its side so that the cap is submerged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to forgo the No Chill practice, then you can do the following to chill your brew without an imersion chiller:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Buy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/pd_115370-84240-TU0154,+TU0159_4294713243__?productId=50252051&amp;amp;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;large plastic tub from Lowes&lt;/a&gt; (should run less than $10) and maybe 30lbs of ice (look for those automated dispensers, they run like $2 per 20lbs now I think). Try to find a tub with a spigot at the bottom if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Put in a few gallons of water, and dedicated piece of fabric, like an old towel or a patch of denim at the bottom of the tub&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Right after the boil, lower your kettle into the tub onto the fabric so that the bottom of the kettle doesn't scorch the plastic. Don't worry too much about this though. Without additional heat, the kettle will very quickly cool to the temp of the wort (212F) which isn't hot enough by itself to melt the plastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Swirl the water in the tub around the base of the kettle &lt;strong&gt;clockwise&lt;/strong&gt;, while you use a brewing spoon to stir the wort &lt;strong&gt;counter-clockwise&lt;/strong&gt;. Spinning the wort clockwise and the water counter-clockwise will give your beer the flavor of Satan's buttcrack (&lt;em&gt;ok I made that last part up, just make sure you are stirring them in &lt;strong&gt;opposite&lt;/strong&gt; directions&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) The water will very quickly heat up. Drain off that water and save it for cleaning your kettle later. Add some new water, stir it for a few min, then add in the ice to the water, but &lt;strong&gt;not to your wort&lt;/strong&gt;. Don't try to put all the ice in at once, just get the level of the ice up near the rim of the kettle, but not over it. Resume the stirring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) If you constantly stir the ice-slush and wort in opposite directions, your wort will drop to pitching temps in 20min maybe. Once you get around 100F, I'd suggest transfering it into your carboy, then putting &lt;strong&gt;that&lt;/strong&gt; back into the ice-slush. You can leave it there for quite a while by itself, or keep stirring to get it down ASAP. When the ice nearly all melts, just drain a bunch of water out and add more ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other notes: its better to have more ice than you need and just cost a few extra bucks. Also, you can plan to boil down less than 5gal, and have some jugs of pre-boiled water sitting in your fridge ready to be added as top-off water at 32F. A gallon of 32F water can drop 4gal of wort at 75F to 5gal at 65F, in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T16:45:31.150" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T16:45:31.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13288" CreationDate="2014-11-21T21:55:38.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Dry and puckering&quot; probably means contamination, most likely bacterial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T08:08:58.330" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T08:08:58.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12754" CreationDate="2014-11-22T04:46:32.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see a problem, and I can't see it being any different or more difficult than using a standard refrigerator. All you need to worry about is the coolant lines, which you'd have to worry about with a regular fridge anyway. I can't imagine wine fridges are any more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to consider is temp. My wine fridge only goes down to 50F, so make sure whatever you get can go low enough (sometimes you might want to cold crash a keg to 30F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have the measurements offhand, and wine fridges don't usually sell by the ft³. This may be some guesswork/taking a small keg (or tape measure, or cardboard traces of your tank/kegs) to the store and trying some out. 1.5L bottles are 13.5&quot;, so that'd be a pretty standard depth, I would imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nice thing would be that there is no compressor hump, so for the most part, you are dealing with nice, cubic dimensions. However, they will vary wildly in the amount of space they allow between shelves and between the bottles on the shelves themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6533" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T12:49:30.263" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T12:49:30.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13288" CreationDate="2014-11-22T07:04:04.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What was the OG reading? What was the FG reading? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these measurements are within the expected boundaries of your yeast strain and fermentation has stopped, then it is probably not infected. Remember, green (un-aged), un-carbonated beer will taste a bit different than the finished product. Dumping a batch should be the last resort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give it time to mellow. And, even if it is contaminated, some &quot;infections&quot; are potentially desirable - think &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brettanomyces&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brettanomyces&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactobacillus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lactobacillus&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T08:08:21.263" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T08:08:21.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16047" CreationDate="2014-11-22T11:00:51.450" Score="2" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously it is better to immediately boil the wort when it is freshest, giving any wild yeist or bacteria as little time as possible to grow and contaminate the product.  It is also a well established practice to mash all of a recipe's different grains together simultaneously.  These practices work wonderfully when brewing a single recipe at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am knocking around the idea of brewing multiple, smaller (2-3 gallon) batches simultaneously to allow more experimentation in my recipes.  Beyond just revising the hopps/add-in timings, I want to play with the grain-bill, changing the quantities of each grain slightly for each batch.  With extracts, that would be easy, but mashing each small batch seperately would be far too time consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is what I have in mind...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mashing each of my malts and adjuncts seperately in 5-10 gallon batches, then after sparging, cold-crash the resulting &quot;single-malt&quot; wort in a chest freezer.  By recording the OG and volume of each seperate batch, I should be able to calculate a grain-weight to wort-volume ratio which I can use later, when translating my grain-bills from weight-based to volume-based.  The mashing could all be done ahead of time, over time and in volume, so that on brew-day, I can start with a freezer full of different, nearly frozen, &quot;single-malt&quot; worts.  From there, boiling up a bunch of small custom batches should be quick and easy; just mix in the appropriate ratios of each wort, and proceed to the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions &quot;boil down to&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the freezer keeps the un-sterilized wort free of wild growth, what other negative-effects should I expect from the wort's time in cold-storage?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What time scale is safe for storing un-sterilized wort at cold-crash (but not frozen) levels?  (a day, a few days, a week, or hopefully... weeks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of you have tried something like this before, or if you've come up with another method of efficiently experimenting with small all-grain batches, please share your wisdom!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T00:29:49.953" Title="What are the effects of storing unboiled All-Grain Wort at sub-lager temperatures?" Tags="|techniques|all-grain|temperature|small-batch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13285" CreationDate="2014-11-22T11:17:30.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are still considering using a plastic bucket for your cooling bath, put a couple of red bricks inside, beneath your kettle.  They should insulate the plastic from the hot metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since I don't yet have enough rep to add comment...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you considered using your bath tub instead of your sink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can both cubes fit in your sink simultaneously?  If not then only one can be chilled at a time.  What will you do with the wort that is destined for the second cube while the first cube is chilling?  If you continue boiling it, that might change the flavor and volume of the final product.  If you don't continue boiling it, how will you minimize the contamination risk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastEditorUserId="8464" LastEditDate="2014-11-22T11:25:06.493" LastActivityDate="2014-11-22T11:25:06.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13297" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-22T21:24:00.637" Score="3" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have an idea if larger bottles (half liter) are harder to carbonate than smaller ones (1/3 liter)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the problem is that I had a Belgian ale (6.5%) is a secondary and when bottling, I couldn't get much carbonation. I read somewhere that introducing new yeast is a good idea - especially champagne yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with time smaller bottles now have decent carbonation, but larger bottles still taste flat. Any reason? The headspace in the bottles is pretty much identical regardless of volume, since I fill them up to the rim and then remove the bottling wand, leaving the headspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&#xA;Josh&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8113" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T16:02:47.387" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T16:02:47.387" Title="Large bottles didn't carbonate, but little ones did" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13305" CreationDate="2014-11-22T22:11:03.997" Score="1" ViewCount="1167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bottled a porter which had been in the fermenter for almost a month. I allowed myself a taste un-carbonated, and while I don't want to count my chickens before they've hatched, I'm very excited for this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Tuesday, I'm going to be taking a 2-3 hour motorcycle ride to meet up with my sisters for Thanksgiving. I would love to bring a couple of bottles with me. I anticipate they should be ready for a first taste around the end of my stay, and if I think they need more time to improve I would leave them behind to be enjoyed in a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, do I risk doing any harm by carrying them for a couple of hours in my saddlebags? The suspension on my bike is not fantastic, so I am sure that they will be thoroughly shaken throughout the ride. By this point, the beer will have been bottled for about 2.5 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only discussion I have seen of agitating beer during bottle conditioning is &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2967/should-i-shake-bottles-during-conditioning&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. There, everyone seems to suggest that the OP doesn't need to shake their bottles, but it's not clear whether its just unnecessary or actually harmful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit in response to Henry Talyor's answer below:&lt;/strong&gt; The beer is in big glass bottles with ample head space. Yeast is white labs liquid Australian Ale, harvested from a previous batch. Estimated ABV is just over 5%. So, pretty much average all around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll note also that I've travelled on my motorcycle with (finished) beer before and never had an issue beyond bottles foaming over if not left to sit. So, my concern is not so much that I'll break the bottles as that I'll disrupt the yeast's work by shaking too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8482" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T04:26:44.383" Title="Is it a bad idea to agitate beer a few days after bottling?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-23T01:41:50.003" Score="0" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use 3 gals of tap water for the wort. Can I use 2 gl of tap water to make up the 5 I need for fermenting?  Lancaster home brewing say any good tasting tap water is OK, but does it need to be sterile..like after boiling? I intend to keg my brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8485" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T02:01:33.683" Title="Water to dilute wort" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13299" CreationDate="2014-11-23T02:01:33.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will definitely want to boil any water that you intend to add to your fermenter.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the yeast is already been pitched into your wort, then you should also cool the water back down to your yeast's comfort zone (read the packaging).&#xA;You should sterilize anything that will touch your boiled water after it stops boiling, including the spoon/stick with which you will mix it into your wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for any good tasting tap water being ok... spend a few minutes and read this page, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sensiblemole.com/watertreatment.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sensiblemole.com/watertreatment.htm&lt;/a&gt;.  It is from an all grain site, but the two techniques it offers are universally applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T02:01:33.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13298" CreationDate="2014-11-23T02:42:40.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming glass bottles with appropriate head-room and that your porter has an average alcohol pretty near the maximum tolerance of the yeast you used.  If those assumptions are reasonable and if you've used an appropriate amount of priming sugar, then you are probably okay at 2.5 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The risks are two-fold, vibration and heat.  I would suggest that you minimize both by packing your bottles in crushed ice.  The loose packing with absorb some of the vibration and the cold may reduce internal pressure withing the bottles (I am not sure about this because both the glass and the beer will condense in the cold).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The negative side to my crushed ice idea is that it will probably slow down the carbonation process, so you may be drinking flat beer with your sisters.  Given that down side, I would suggest bringing twice as many bottles as you need, chill half and pad the others.  If you are lucky, none will explode and you will have extra beer for the end of your holiday.&#xA;...and worst case, you can leave the cold ones with them for later sampling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T02:42:40.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10008" CreationDate="2014-11-23T11:27:01.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a Scotsman and a professional brewer the answer to how much peated malt to put in a Scotch Ale is zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smoked malt beers I first came across were German never Scottish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Scottish breweries we used to pay special attention to testing for any peated malt contamination of our malt deliveries because so much peated malt could accidently come into contact with brewers malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make smoked malt beer go ahead but take it from me it is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; Scotch Ale or even Scottish Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;George&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8486" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T11:27:01.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5805" CreationDate="2014-11-23T16:50:22.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You’re basically all set. However, Sake is very temperature sensitive throughout the process and the rice needs to be steamed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fred Eckhardt&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fred_Eckhardt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fred_Eckhardt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fred Eckhardt’s book&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0960630287&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Sake-USA-complete-breweries-homebrewed/dp/0960630287&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T16:50:22.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13306" CreationDate="2014-11-24T00:02:40.503" Score="3" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a wort chiller yet. I always cool down my wort with 20 pounds of ice and bucket that I place my kettle into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I am extract brewing and will be adding 2.5 gallons of water anyways, I figured why not cool down that water and add it directly to the wort while its in the ice bath? I just did that and the temperature dropped to below 80 in a matter of minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I was brewing a double IPA which required flame-out addition of hops, which I performed in my hop bag. So the flameout hops were only in contact with the wort for about 10 minutes total before I moved transferred the wort to my carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I've read that extract brewers use much more hops than full grain brewers due to the former using half as much water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it bad for an extract brewer to add 2.5-3 gallons of cold water directly to the wort before it cools down?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I should start all grain brewing in 2 weeks (hopefully). Is there any consequences to adding cold water if the evaporation rate took my batch below what I was aiming for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T04:32:31.697" Title="Extract Brewing - Cooling down wort by adding cold water?" Tags="|wort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13298" CreationDate="2014-11-24T04:26:44.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little shaking is no problem at all, as others have mentioned it might even help the process along. At 2.5 days after bottling the yeast should be active, cloudy, and maybe even making a bit of foam on their own. There probably won't even be yeast on the bottom of the bottle yet, so you can handle them quite casually. &#xA;The thing to watch out for are big temperature changes - either up or down. The yeast are working on a small amount of sugar (at the same time removing a bit of oxygen) and will likely take a couple weeks to complete anyway. Any quick cooling is likely to send them back to sleep which will delay carbonation and maybe allow oxygen to damage the beer. Warming is risky too - even if the yeast like the temperature, you'll have to cool slowly later to prevent the same problem above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T04:26:44.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13304" CreationDate="2014-11-24T04:32:31.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As long as the water is clean and free of chlorine, go for it. I use bottled water or previously boiled water this way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Same as number 1, but cleanliness is less of a problem if you are still boiling the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally: hops oils can reach saturation quite easily in a DIPA, maybe use some software to calculate the IBUs that would be recovered using a full volume boil vs 1/2 volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T04:32:31.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13308" CreationDate="2014-11-24T13:12:33.133" Score="1" ViewCount="591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a hard time finding bitter orange peel in my region, but I did find bitter orange powder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I achieve the same results with the powder instead of the peel? Should I use the same quantity or increase or decrease?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will it to brew my first wit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8038" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T13:17:36.963" Title="Replacing orange peel with orange powder" Tags="|ingredients|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13307" CreationDate="2014-11-24T13:17:36.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use normal orange peel as well.  Just buy an orange or two, peel them avoiding the pith and use that.  I have never found it a big difference between bitter orange and &quot;sweet&quot; orange peel.  Most of the stuff in the homebrew stores is pretty old, at least around me anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The orange powder may work, but without knowing whats in it or what it is I can't guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T13:17:36.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13285" CreationDate="2014-11-25T03:30:32.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cool my kettles in large plastic buckets.  The kettles easily float, so no contact with plastic and no melting.  I run a hose into the bucket and turn the tap on low.  The water spills out over the top, so this is an outdoors-only solution.  It works very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T03:30:32.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13311" CreationDate="2014-11-25T04:41:39.060" Score="2" ViewCount="1205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pitched Red Star Champagne yeast for a two gallon batch of Banana wine six days ago today when I went to siphon the must into the secondary I saw fermentation had stopped. Trying to figure out what happened I tested S.G. results = .996, I take it all sugar has been fermented out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: What caused this fast fermentation, and will it be any good if I let it age?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I used 6 pounds of Ripe Bananas augmented with 4 pounds of Brown Sugar. My living situation doesn't allow me to control temperature so during the whole week Temp could vary from 60°-78°&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8494" LastEditorUserId="8494" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T06:14:23.733" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T14:18:15.620" Title="Super fast fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|wine|fruit|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13310" CreationDate="2014-11-25T05:38:38.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature would be my first bet.  You didn't mention what temperature you experienced during your primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your temperature was appropriate for the champagne yeast, then my next bet would be that your OG was not very high; therefore your yeast ate up what little sugar was present in a comparatively short time.  Did you augment the bananas with any additional fermentables?  What was your S.G. when you pitched your yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the quality of the results...&#xA;If your temperature was too high for your yeast, you may get some esters, but their flavor and scent are usually fruity and are sometimes even described as banana.  These shouldn't be a problem in your case.&#xA;If your temperature was fine then this issue might come from a shortage of fermentable-sugars.  If that is the case, your wine might end up rather dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T05:38:38.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13310" CreationDate="2014-11-25T14:18:15.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your must is basically simple sugar and entirely fermentable.  Your temps may be a little high so the yeast worked quickly.  I'd be sure to leave the whole thing for a couple weeks to allow the yeast time to clean up some of the bi-products of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I'd rack to a new container for a longer aging period.  Taste it then to see how it tastes.  If it tastes good enough to you, once its clear bottle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it get better with age?  Not sure but that's part of the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T14:18:15.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-25T17:36:16.683" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I needed to keep the harvested yeast in the fridge for longer than I needed, could I just make a new starter and leave it to ferment out and then put it in the fridge again. Would this help to keep the yeast healthy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7885" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T01:50:03.460" Title="keeping cropped yeast in good health" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13315" CreationDate="2014-11-26T04:21:04.967" Score="4" ViewCount="3593" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this is a weird one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 weeks ago I made an Xmas beer. I brewed it, pitched the #2 yeast, and put the carboy in my cold dark room (about 70 F) to ferment. The fermentation and krausen began about 18 hours after brewing, and lasted for 6 days or so. I measured the FG and it was spot-on so I continued as planned. All was well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like the recipe so I brewed another batch 2 days ago (on Sunday). I pitched the #2 yeast and again put the same carboy in the same dark room at the same temperature. Again, the fermentation / krausen began about 18 hours after brewing. However, tonight I took a look at the carboy only to find that the krausen has completely sunk to the bottom... 4 days earlier than the identical recipe did the last time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happened? It's still fermenting given that I can see the 3-piece airlock bubbling, but what is the deal with the super early krausen drop? I'll give it 7 days, measure the FG, and hope for the best, but can anyone explain the reason that batch 1 went 6 days before the krausen dropped and batch 2 went less than 48 hours?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8116" LastEditorUserId="8116" LastEditDate="2014-12-06T16:13:10.540" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T16:13:10.540" Title="Fermentation Done After 2 Days?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|primary-fermentation|krausen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13314" CreationDate="2014-11-26T05:26:39.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a sterile wine thief to get a sample and take a specific gravity of your current product.  How does it compare to the final gravity of your previous batch.  Since fermentation is still proceeding, we can guess that you haven't reached your target gravity yet.  Which means the krausen is heavier that it was last time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible causes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you use different water, or treat your water differently in preparation for the second batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that it is an Xmas beer, are there any components with limited shelf life?  Fruit augments can act differently depending on their freshness.  Even if proper sterility is maintained, the chemical make up of ripe fruit is different from that of green fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white elephant in the room is infection.  Are there any off-smells? Aside from the fallen krausen, does your product look any different than last time?  Are there more free floating particles than usual?  How is the color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you let the fermentation complete as normal, and see what the result smells like?  If you still have a bottle of the previous batch, use it as a basis for comparison (smell, color, taste).  Chances are that it will be fine.  Small differences happen all the time between batches; after all, yeast is life and life can be unpredictable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T05:26:39.300" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13324" CreationDate="2014-11-26T12:59:57.697" Score="2" ViewCount="1361" Body="&lt;p&gt;So. My first two batches of an IPA and a Brown Ale ended up with a Malt Vinegar taste and smell. I know there can be many factors and many types of reasons for it. I want to get my sanitizing 110% though. I want to put boiling water in my mini auto siphon. It's plastic. Will that destroy it? Will it withstand a dose of boiling water. Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8462" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-11-26T15:45:17.163" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T21:12:32.377" Title="Can I sanitize an auto-siphon with boiling water?" Tags="|beer|malt|vinegar|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2014-11-26T14:09:57.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling 6 gallons on a 3.5 kW induction top works flawlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T14:09:57.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2014-11-26T18:05:50.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done several full boils on my cheap Whirlpool electric range.  It takes a long time and is a bit of a pain but it's possible.  I stopped when the burner overheated and the plastic harness that connected the heating element to the wires melted and/or burnt to ash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary, it probably depends on the quality and capabilities of your stove.  My advice is to try it with a smaller batch to see how it handles it, then work your way up as you feel comfortable with your equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3282" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T18:05:50.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13316" CreationDate="2014-11-26T19:32:02.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I strongly doubt it will stand up to boiling water. Also boiling water isn't a guaranteed way to sanitize equipment - bacteria can still remain in hard to reach places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should instead get hold of a sanitizer specifically developed for brewing: Iodophor, Star San are the two most popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T19:32:02.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13321" CreationDate="2014-11-26T22:54:39.177" Score="1" ViewCount="574" Body="&lt;p&gt;Family wants me to fry a turkey in my 14 gallon brew kettle.  I'm all for fried turkey but worried about lasting effects on my kettle.  Anyone have experience with something like this? Also open to suggestions on frying a turkey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6034" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T23:45:49.137" Title="Frying a Turkey in a Brew Kettle" Tags="|kettle|boil-kettle|brewpot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13320" CreationDate="2014-11-26T23:31:09.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a can of metal. If you don't feel you can get the surface clean after the fry (perhaps because of carbonization of organic matter stuck to the surface), then that will be a problem. If you can, then it's a clean surface you will have no problems brewing with in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say: roast away!  If there's a problem, lobby to get your family to replace and in fact improve your brew kettle as a remuneration for your trouble. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Edit:) But most likely, you're going to easily remove any residual oils with soap, because that's what soap does, and any organic matter stuck to the surface will also be easily removed with a bit of elbow grease and a semi-abrasive surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Thanksgiving!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2014-11-26T23:45:49.137" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T23:45:49.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13288" CreationDate="2014-11-28T03:10:21.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your issue sounds like what I just dealt with. Mine was due to an Acetobacter infection. Acetobacter can be caused by many things, mine was probably in part due to poor cooling after boiling. Two batches completely ruined. Some people have let their beer sit and age to see if it works out, I dumped mine. If you use plastics and have ever cleaned with any abrasive material, a scratch that you don't see could be the culprit. PBW and Star San are great, but you can be sidelined by materials like plastics. I'm slowly switching to glass. Google Acetobacter. Good reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8462" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T03:10:21.900" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-11-28T03:10:21.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12793" CreationDate="2014-11-28T03:26:21.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's what I ended up doing, and how it turned out.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let it sit for over 2 months, to get the hop flavor to dissipate somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I dry-hopped (for 3 or 4 days) with 2 ounces of Citra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At bottling time, the Sorachi Ace flavor was definitely still there, and quite strong.  At that point it reminded me of oak.  I thought that a beer that seemed like an oaked IPA might be okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that's it's conditioned it doesn't seem oaky to me any more.  The flavor has a fair bit of &quot;dill&quot;, and the lemon aspect seems to me more like lemon peel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now here's the surprising thing... &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I love this beer!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  I'm definitely glad I dry-hopped with Citra instead of more Sorachi Ace, but this beer is pretty darn nice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T03:26:21.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13316" CreationDate="2014-11-28T11:46:11.893" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not do this!  Speaking from experience.  I accidentally put my auto siphon into a bucket that was full of near boiling water.  I turned away for just a minute and the plastic had softened enough that I now own a &quot;J&quot; shaped autosiphon.  Needless to say I can't use it anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to boil sanitize equipment like this you can get a stainless racking cane and boil the snot out of it if you like.  But then you won't have the convenience of the autosiphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T11:46:11.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-29T04:36:07.177" Score="5" ViewCount="885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've upgraded from a 20L homebrew system to a 200L system and used it for the first time the other day. I previously did boil-in-the-bag but for my new system I have a false bottom. For my first test I decided to try a half-batch. The problem was that several kilos of grain managed to get down beneath the false bottom, blocking the outlet and also clogging the pump with grain, preventing me from being about to recirculate or transfer to the boil kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about what could have gone wrong and the possible solutions:&#xA;- maybe I need a full batch so that there's enough grain weight to compact the grain bed above the false bottom so that the grain at the bottom doesn't fall through the holes or the small gaps around the side&#xA;- maybe I turned on the pump before the grain had chance to settle which created a vacuum and sucked the grain down through the false bottom&#xA;- maybe I knocked the false bottom when doughing in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of putting a roll of muslin cloth around the edge of the false bottom to get a better seal against the edge of the tun. Maybe also put a layer of muslin cloth over the false bottom itself to provide an extra layer of filtering. Another idea is to put a steel scourer (like for scouring dishes) in the tun outlet to filter out more grain - I'm worried though that it will still clog up the outlet and restrict flow to the point that my self-priming magnetic-drive pump won't work or might cavitate...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8501" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T16:27:00.040" Title="False bottom not working effectively" Tags="|equipment|filtering|mash-tun|lauter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13325" CreationDate="2014-11-29T18:06:02.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have the right idea about sealing the rim of your false bottom.  The common method is to use a length of vinyl tubing slit lengthwise.  The false bottom fits into the slit as you wrap the tubing around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T18:06:02.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13325" CreationDate="2014-11-29T19:07:02.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;200L?  Wow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider using a length of copper tubing with slits cut in it, instead of a false bottom.  My mash tun came with a false bottom which was always a bit of a pain to get nicely into place.  One day I replaced it with the copper tube thing and I love it!  I have since replaced my mash tun with a larger one, but I'm still using the same copper tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find lots of pictures of these online, but most are manifolds built from sections of straight tube and elbow joints.  That's cool, but I think mine was simpler to make.  I just used a single piece (about 2 - 3 feet) of flexible copper tubing.  I put masking tape over one end, and filled it with salt.  (Sand would work too, if you have access to sand.)  Then I bent it into a coil.  The salt inside is essential to prevent it from kinking.  After it had the right shape, I just used a hacksaw to cut slits in it every 1 or 2 inches.  Pinch one end closed, and put the other into the outlet on your mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really love this simple solution.  And you hardly need to do any vorlaufing at all.  The only time it clogged is once when I put the grains in first, and then the water on top.  Now I just always start with the water, and then stir in the grains, and it works like a dream!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what mine looks like, shown from the bottom.  (You put it in the mash tun with the slits &lt;strong&gt;down&lt;/strong&gt;.)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fuvUQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;copper tubing with slits for mash tun&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2014-12-01T16:27:00.040" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T16:27:00.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13313" CreationDate="2014-11-30T01:50:03.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Pitching a portion of the yeast into a new starter would certainly produce a revitalized pitch of yeast. Whether or not that makes sense probably depends on how long it's going to be before you plan to actually use the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast will be most healthy toward the end of the starter's fermentation, so I've known homebrewers who keep stored yeast in a refrigerator until it's needed and throw it on a fresh starter prior to brew day if they feel they've stored it for what they consider &quot;too long.&quot; That's a fairly subjective amount of time, but I think 3-4 weeks is a safe upper limit). I suspect your best bet is to rely on some combination of that approach and the one you are proposing. Keep your original pitch as long as you feel comfortable (let's say 3 weeks) and pitch some portion of it into a starter if you aren't almost ready to brew but want to hold on to it. On the other hand, if you plan to brew on the 4th week, you might hold out and pitch some portion of it into a fresh starter a few days before your brew day to optimize for pitching the healthiest yeast possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that I've specially suggested pitching &quot;some portion&quot; of the reserved yeast into the starter. If you've reserved most of the yeast cake from a 5 gallon fermentation, you probably don't want to throw it all into a starter; too much yeast is just as bad as not enough. Think of how much yeast slurry you get out of a commercial package and pitch a maximum of 2-3 times that amount into your starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2054" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T01:50:03.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13329" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-30T20:22:26.843" Score="2" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to fly a full case of homebrew home with me for Christmas. Is there a standard size box that can fit that much beer plus packing materials to protect it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: the airline I'm flying offers a free checked bag, so I plan on checking a cardboard box (not a suitcase) full of my homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8090" LastEditorUserId="8090" LastEditDate="2014-12-01T14:29:04.600" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T01:21:01.817" Title="Packing Beer on a Plane" Tags="|packaging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13329" CreationDate="2014-11-30T22:33:13.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Between checking a box and padding, you're looking at an almost unreasonable amount of space required, and considering how insane some airlines can seem to be with their checked baggage fees, I'd recommend an alternative:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to your local store that carries clothes of any kind, the cheaper the better, buy the cheapest socks you can buy that are big enough to fit a bottle in them, and have a decent amount of padding and use those.  Slip a bottle in each sock, put them into your check bag, and you're golden.  This keeps them from clanging around, setting off airport security alarms, and overall makes things a lot easier and simpler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure the check bag doesn't exceed the weight limits.  I'd imagine a full case worth of beer bottles can push the limit, so make sure you weigh the bag with the socked beer bottles in it, verifying that it doesn't exceed the carrier's limit before going to the airport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T22:33:13.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13329" CreationDate="2014-12-01T05:09:03.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had no problems packing wine &amp;amp; liquor in a layer of cardboard for several international flights (wrap in 1 layer of cardboard, tape it up, squeeze/fold the cardboard around the neck &amp;amp; bottom, tape some more). This still pretty bulky, and I only put two bottles in a suitcase along with clothes.&#xA;Weight might be an issue: I just weighed a 355ml bottle of beer at 630g, 24 of of those gets you 15kg of beer &amp;amp; bottle. Then you need to account for the packing material, clothes and suitcase itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T05:09:03.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13335" CreationDate="2014-12-01T20:59:51.090" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed my first ever German Weizen (using True Brew kit) on Saturday (today is Monday) and it's sitting in a plastic 6 gallon bucket (but there's only 5 gallons of it). I have some questions which were not addressed in my generic guide which came with my equipment and kits. I realize some of these questions probably belong on a forum of some sort, but I turn to the StackExchange community for help as I trust the people. My questions are such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My kit specified the gravity pre-yeast should be 1.049-1.051, when I measured it was 1.041, will this result in a weaker beer?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My equipment featured a 6 gallon plastic bucket and a 5 gallon glass carboy, should I prefer one over the other? Do I need to transfer to secondary fermenter after bubbles really slow down?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More specifically, the six gallon bucket I have has 5 gallons of liquid in it, which means it has a gallon of empty space, which is air, is this bad for the brew? Should I minimize the oxygen and just use the carboy?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I like my Weizens with a flavor and aroma of orange, kinda like Blue Moon or Shock Top. How does one achieve this? Do I add orange peel during boiling? or can I add it when transferring to secondary fermenter? Do I need to add anything else, like more yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have the feeling that I didn't completely sanitize all my equipment (Maybe I missed a spot while cleaning the bucket? maybe I'm just paranoid?) or that I might have been a little careless handling my equipment, will this ruin my brew?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8508" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T22:41:40.247" Title="Specific and generic questions from a first timer - size of fermenter, flavoring, gravity, sanitation" Tags="|flavor|cleaning|original-gravity|fermenter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-01T21:28:16.687" Score="3" ViewCount="2194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently brewing an Irish Red Ale. I went away for a few days, and when I got back I discovered the heater had broken at some unknown time. As a result, the ambient temperature dropped to about 40 degrees. The optimum temperature listed was between 57-70 degrees. How does this affect the brew? Do I just need to leave it fermenting longer, or are there additional steps to be taken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8509" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T15:20:11.430" Title="What happens if beer ferments below the optimum temperature?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|red-ale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13333" CreationDate="2014-12-01T23:39:40.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;40 degrees is quite a bit lower than the bottom range for your yeast. I'd expect that they've gone pretty much inactive. But don't worry! All you need to do to reactivate them is to warm your brew back up to the optimal temperature and provide some gentle agitation. Be careful not to splash! As fermentation has already stated, you don't want to add any oxygen into your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, you may need to add a few days (equal to the number of days spent at 40 degrees) to allow for complete fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, it is possible that your yeast finished anyway before it got too cold. You could take a gravity reading to see if it meshes with your expected FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-12-03T12:25:10.933" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T12:25:10.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13332" CreationDate="2014-12-02T00:16:21.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, a lower original gravity will result in a lower-alcohol final product. &lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, if this was an extract kit and if you added the correct amount of water, the discrepancy is almost certainly a measurement error. A common mistake is to draw the hydrometer sample without having first mixed the extract thoroughly into the water. This will lead to an observed original gravity that is not representative of the batch as a whole.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For most beers you can do the entire fermentation in the plastic bucket. For strong beers that have an extended fermentation or aging period, transferring to the carboy separates the beer from the trub that fell to the bottom, which impact the flavour over long storage times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using glass carboys there's always the real risk of breakage when lifting or moving the beer. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=carboy%20injury&quot;&gt;resulting injuries&lt;/a&gt; can be quite serious. If you decide to ferment in glass, you might want to consider keeping the carboy in a milk crate so you can lift it more safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to worry about the 1 gallon of head-space in the fermentation bucket. The actively fermenting beer will quickly displace the oxygen with CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. In the early stages of fermentation, when the yeast is multiplying, oxygen is actually beneficial -- a lot of home brewers deliberately oxygenate the wort before adding the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To get wheat-beer flavour, you need to use wheat-beer yeast. Both &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/com_b_styledetails.cfm?ID=170&quot;&gt;WYeast&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp351-bavarian-weizen-yeast&quot;&gt;White Labs&lt;/a&gt; offer a number of strains. If you're able to control the fermentation temperature, keeping it near the upper limit for the yeast will increase ester production -- making the beer more fruity.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Only time will tell. My sanitization procedure is pretty sloppy when compared to some of the members of this site, and I've only lost two batches of beer to infection in over 10 years of brewing. Your beer is probably fine, but you'll know for sure one way or another in a week or two.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T01:54:35.760" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T01:54:35.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-02T22:14:48.113" Score="2" ViewCount="944" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my brother in law are in the midst of our 4th batch.  Of our first batch ( a 5 gallon brew) probably 2 bottles turned out.  These bottles were spectacular great carbonation, retention etc. The others flavors seemed ok but completely and totally flat. I noticed that the bottles that turned out where the smaller 12 ounce size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 weeks in fermenter before bottling and then 4 weeks before transferring bottles to refrigeration.  We have removed the bottles and slowly warmed for another few weeks and tested again...still flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally suspect that we may have over primed and that instead of explosions we broke the seals on our caps.  While inspecting the caps I noticed on the rubbery seal there is a tiny clear.clean spot along the edge where the rest of the cap is stained.  I believe his could have been the point where the seal broke and was allowing gas to escape.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan moving forward is to remake the same batch and this time use swing top bottles to see if the results change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insights you can share would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8512" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T08:53:02.017" Title="Trouble with flat beer. Everything seems perfect and a few bottles always turn out great. very few! Please help" Tags="|beer|equipment|brewing|capping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-03T03:57:44.847" Score="1" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assembled an electric kettle with a 5500W CAMCO heating element.  The element heats water significantly faster than my gas burner ever did but peaks out at 205-210 degrees.  I can take 5 gallons from 60 to 210 in only 9 minutes but cannot get it to boiling.  The circuit breaker is 30amp.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8513" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T05:15:39.687" Title="Can't get my Electric Kettle to boil?" Tags="|brewing|electric|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13336" CreationDate="2014-12-03T08:14:33.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It hard to diagnose this without pictures, numbers, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you overprimed, maybe you didn't. Over priming with good caps = beer volcanos. And explosions. And a big mess. So maybe there is something wrong with your caps, bottles, or capper. Leaky caps should have held some gas, giving you random levels of carbonation. The only time I ever had a miss-cap, I could tell by looking at the outside of the bottle. The cap was obviously tilted. Weak/loose caps should be too easy to remove, but should still hold some pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT, the most common cause of uneven / poor carbonation is not mixing the beer enough. Assuming you use 100-150g of sugar for 5 gallons (I use cane sugar, DME requires more I think), and you dissolve that in a few hundred ml of water, it'll be a few times more dense than your unfermented wort. (10% sugar is about 1.040, so 150g of sugar in 1.5 liters would be about wort's strength. Does anybody here add priming sugar with so much water?) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The priming sugar will sink like a rock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My method is to stir the beer before I add he sugar, pour it in slowly (and quietly down the side of the racking cane) while the beer is still moving. Then stir some more. You'll raise the yeast up a little bit, so let it settle for another 30 minutes while you wash bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also - you don't need to wait a month to find out your results. 4 days will get enough carbonation to know if the beer is going to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please post numbers &amp;amp; pictures if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T08:14:33.240" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13337" CreationDate="2014-12-03T08:31:09.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's got to be the element going open at that temperature - 5500W is plenty of power (9 minutes!). I guess this a water heater element, designed to operate at 120F or so, it might even be a 'safety feature'. An inductive ammeter would answer that question very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T08:31:09.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13337" CreationDate="2014-12-03T10:39:24.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the Kettle have a thermal cut out switch wired in the circuit with the element?&#xA;If this is the case the thermal cut out switch switches the element off each time it gets to a specific temp. this is a safety feature and can be bypassed by if you have some electrical knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3488" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T10:39:24.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13343" CreationDate="2014-12-03T13:39:40.873" Score="2" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I have 1 half sized corny keg (11,4L - ~3gal) and want to force carbonate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally when force carbonating normal sized cornys of 5 gal (19L) I use ~30 psi for about 10 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't know if I have to adapt the time of carbing or it tooks the same time to work. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T09:05:14.180" Title="Half-size keg force carbonation" Tags="|corny-keg|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12184" CreationDate="2014-12-03T21:12:10.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made coffee wine before and it was the biggest pain of all the wines I made, it never stopped foaming! Maybe I did something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the taste, wine never &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; tastes like what it is made from. You would have to add flavor after it is done brewing and before you bottle it.  For example, I make a great strawberry wine and it smells so nice but, it doesn't taste like a strawberry. It has about the same amount of strawberry flavor as putting a whole strawberry in a class of water and then drinking it. You may smell it a little and even fool your taste buds into thinking you taste strawberries but, it is very faint. I mean, yes, you can taste it, but it isn't strawberry juice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3926" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T21:12:10.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13341" CreationDate="2014-12-04T07:08:00.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the surface area exposed (and whether you are shaking the keg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the short corny's I've seen, the diameter is the same as a 20L, so the you have the same surface area for half as much beer when the keg is standing. So half the time should work if you're not shaking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To carbonate in 10 minutes I suspect you're holding the keg sideways and shaking it. In that case the surface area to beer ratio is probably similar for both kegs, so expect the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A trick I use is to dial down the regulator to the target pressure, give a shake and listen for CO2 going through the regulator. When I can't hear it I know to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T07:08:00.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13341" CreationDate="2014-12-04T09:05:14.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you would have to change anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As 30 PSI is the same in a any sized container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T09:05:14.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13336" CreationDate="2014-12-04T09:38:44.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the bottles that you are using screw tops? That &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be the problem. Although some people have had success, others complained about leaks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are you capping? Maybe you are causing damage by using too much force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test: place a balloon or condom over a bottle. If the item inflates, you have a leak. if it does not, open the bottle (after 2 weeks to allow for carbonation) and if the beer has no carbonation, then your priming is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T09:38:44.910" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="958" CreationDate="2014-12-04T22:08:40.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming that you are making wine. For beer, neither sorbate nor SO2 have a place, since homebrew either creates carbonation from fermentation in the bottle or via CO2 injection in a keg, and usually there is no residual sugar to worry about for &quot;re-fermentation&quot; later in either case given timelines for deciding when to bottle/keg, meaning re-fermentation can be avoided without chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For wine, honestly, don't be in a hurry. The only thing to stop fermentation here is 1) there is no more sugar in the must for the yeast to &quot;eat&quot;, or 2) you filter the yeast out (if you really are in a hurry --&gt; but costs $$ for the pump and filters). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorbate will not stop fermentation forever, only for a &quot;while&quot; -- but may be enough until you drink everything, in which case the Web is full of doses you can attempt. But SO2 is intended mainly for controlling bacteria and is &lt;em&gt;highly&lt;/em&gt; unreliable for &quot;preventing yeast from multiplying&quot; if you don't do residual sulfur tests. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, &quot;preventing yeast from multiplying&quot; is not the same as preventing fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So neither sorbate nor SO2 are fool-proof against re-fermentation if there is a significant residual sugar left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either use a yeast that dies at your top-level alcohol requirement (Lalvin D47 and 71B stop at 14%), or use a good filter system, or build a mini-test-lab in the basement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T22:08:40.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13332" CreationDate="2014-12-04T22:41:40.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) 1.041 vs. 1.049 is not a big difference. You might notice the difference but likely won't worry if everything else is in balance. You might taste more hop, since there will be less residual sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The bucket is bigger than the carboy to allow for foaming during the first few days of fermentation. But many, many home brewers just go with a carboy and blow-off system from the start (avoiding the bucket) that allows the foam (and hop oils and other gunk) to just flow out of the carboy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT: If all you have are the 6 gal. bucket and 5 gal. carboy, then start with the bucket and do your racking into the carboy. You &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; need to rack at least &lt;em&gt;once&lt;/em&gt; anyway, so the carboy can be your secondary fermenter, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OXYGEN: not a worry during fermentation, since the CO2 being generated prevents any air/oxygen from touching the top of your green beer, regardless of headspace in bucket or carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Yeast is irrelevant when adding flavourings. The orange flavour you want is actually a combination of orange peel and orange juice. Grate the peels of two or three oranges (avoiding going into the 'pith' -- very bitter) and add 300 ml of orange juice to 200 mL of water for 30-60 seconds. When cooled, add to your brew when fermentation is already underway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Only the final brew will tell the tale of proper sanitation. It depends on the kind of stain left behind and whether it came into significant contact with a lot of your wort for an extended period. Sanitize more diligently next time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once, when I was bottling while my daughter helped, she sneezed. The bottle we were bottling later &quot;overflowed&quot; when I opened it, but everything else was fine because I had caps loosely placed on the remaining empty bottles. So it's hard to know what is going to be attacked by bacteria until you open the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanitize/spray scrupulously with 99% isopropyl alcohol on exteriors (allowing time to evaporate) and use Star-San for interior cleanliness (inside carboys and tubes). Don't talk, laugh, or even breath when &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; above openings (bottles, carboys). Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T22:41:40.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13316" CreationDate="2014-12-04T22:59:57.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Star-San is the best answer -- &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DO NOT use it &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt;, ie: so as to clean and store for later use. Star-San is acidic and prolonged/sustained contact will make your plastic brittle and break (I have broken a siphon tube like this after only a few months of doing this afterbrew sanitizing). Use Star-San ONLY just before use for anything plastic/vinyl (glass is not an issue). Same goes for those excellent PET Plastic Carboys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once sanitized properly with Star-San, the best siphoning system is actually to use those orange carboy caps, the ones with the two openings. Use one opening for the siphon tubing and the other with a CO2 injector, by poking a hole in the white nipple cap to allow the CO2 needle to penetrate. Once you inject the CO2, your wort will start flowing through the siphon tubing like magic. Nothing beats this system, since it prevents air from touching the wort during the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T22:59:57.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-05T03:12:35.730" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm testing out a brand new 200L system and found a couple of potentially disastrous but potentially easy-to-fix issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) While mashing the temperature indicated on the thermometer which sits near the bottom of the tun was fluctuating wildly between 60 and 70 degrees. It might go from 62 degrees to 70 degrees in a matter of seconds, then a few minutes later fall back down, even without any additional heat from the stove or from hot water additions. Other times when adding heat from the stove the temperature would remain in the low 60s. Obviously this is still in the desirable temperature range for mashing but means it's difficult to control the mash temperature for repeat recipes. There is a sight gauge with an inlet near the bottom and outlet at the top. The tun has no insulation, just a stove for heating/maintaining temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what could be going on? Some crazy convection current? At the moment I'm thinking my only option might be to get a jacket to insulate the tun once it's at the desired mash temperature. Anyone have any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wX7Qu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) My boil kettle is the same size, also with a sight gauge and thermometer near the bottom, as well as an in-place immersion cooler fixed inside. I found that after the boil I cooled for an hour and saw the temperature drop to 20 degrees so began filling the fermenters. However by the time I was drawing the last 3rd of the batch the temperature reading was back up to 50 degrees! Sadly, I didn't realise until I'd already aerated the wort in the fermenter :smack:.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best guess is that the hot wort rose to the top and sank down to the bottom as I was gradually drawing it off. With less wort in contact with the immersion chiller it wasn't cooled properly. Should I carry on chilling for another hour? Or maybe draw the wort off in batches while continuing to chill? Or plump for a plate chiller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8501" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T01:48:29.870" Title="Temperature Control Issues" Tags="|temperature|temperature-control|mashing|cooling|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13349" CreationDate="2014-12-05T12:00:05.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think stirring is required even if you are running a watery mash with recirculation; you have to at least break up the clumps of dry grain before you can pump it. Heat doesn't seem to move easily through the mash anyways.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wort that is above the chiller will chill very, very slowly. I find that some wort will also stay hot on the bottom of my pot (on the side opposite my chiller). I think you'd have to drain the wort slowly, or stir it somehow (too risky for me) or modify the chiller to be near the top of the wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2014-12-09T01:48:29.870" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T01:48:29.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13351" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-05T18:30:44.553" Score="0" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first batch of witbier Has been in the secondary fermenter for 3weeks  now. How do I know &#xA;A) when it's done?&#xA;B) if it's ok to drink&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see a whitish greenish line around the top layer on the edges. Is that ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8525" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T14:41:19.897" Title="First time brewer needing help" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13351" CreationDate="2014-12-05T19:14:22.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The greenish white line is likely to be &quot;trub&quot;...also known as &quot;gunk&quot; from fermentation and hops.  Although it's hard to say for certain without a pic, my guess is that you're fine.  You'll know it's done when you take hydrometer readings on several days and get the same reading each day.  The only way to know if it's OK to drink is to taste it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T19:14:22.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13351" CreationDate="2014-12-06T14:41:19.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to tell if there is any fermentation still happening by observing the fermentation lock. I assume that after 3 weeks your brew is done, but if your lock is still bubbling (say even every 2-3 minutes) then some fermentation is continuing. You don't say what the ambient temperature is, but assuming a proper range, 65-75F, then you are probably ready to rack before bottling. Because it's wheat beer, it will never be clear, so you can't tell if fermentation has stopped from the beer starting to clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The green line is likely trub, as already mentioned. But that might mean you need to rack this liquor off of the yeast, if you haven't done so yet, if you don't want a lot of that stuff in your bottled beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T14:41:19.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13333" CreationDate="2014-12-06T15:20:11.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, take a reading of specific gravity to determine where you were in the fermentation before the temperature dropped. This will tell you how much further you need to go (meaning how many days to expect further fermentation to go at proper temperatures). Simply bringing the temperature into the correct range will be enough to re-energize the yeast. You don't have to stir the wort if this is inconvenient, since this might introduce bacteria and aeration you don't need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring the temperature up to at least 70F, but ~75F as a maximum, and wait a day or two for signs of re-fermentation (air lock bubbling, for example). It will take at least a day for the carboy to react to the change in ambient temperature. An Irish Ale ferments best at slightly lower temperatures in your range, so you can let the temp drop to the &quot;upper 60s&quot; once the fermentation has re-started. Then just proceed as if nothing happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T15:20:11.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13314" CreationDate="2014-12-06T15:35:18.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many factors: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was the 2nd yeast of the same lot code?! Yeast is finicky and may simply not react the same way twice if anything is even slightly different in your mix. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was the malt extract exactly the same as the 1st batch? Dry vs. liquid, fresh vs. 2 years old? Anything different in how you prepared additions like Chrystal malt, etc.?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any differences in the boil? EG: Longer or shorter boil time? Longer or shorter time to cool to room temp? Partial boil vs. full volume?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you change your water in any way? Did it come out of the cold-water tap as before or did you use another source, such as mineral water from a 5 gal container?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you aerate the wort in &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same way the 2nd time? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that fermentation continued means you are probably ok, though any of the above factors might have made it taste slightly different from the first batch. But without industrial quality control of our kitchen or basement environments that's unavoidable and makes homebrew such a joy :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T15:35:18.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13361" CreationDate="2014-12-06T15:54:30.217" Score="1" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this problem with my beer and I couldn't find any answer from my friends, experts, or web pages. Following primary fermentation (1 week) I move the green beer to a food grade plastic container inside a refrigerator (25 F). Following a few days of maturation a strange smell (less in flavor) like wet cloth or dirty cloth comes up. I have found this smell in the Brooklyn's Summer Ale, in fact my beer is a summer ale (blond ale) made mostly with pale malt.&#xA;Parameters:&#xA;OG 1048&#xA;FG 1011&#xA;IBUS 20&#xA;ABV 4.9%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8527" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T03:53:41.713" Title="Wet cloth or dirty cloth smell" Tags="|aroma|problems|maturation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-06T16:16:36.933" Score="0" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so I brewed an xmas beer about a month ago. It turned out awesome. One thing I did was add a bunch of ingredients into the secondary fermentation. The ingredients were vanilla bean, wood oak chips soaked in bourbon, nutmeg, and cinnamon sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer turned out great but each bottle has a fair amount of sediment suspended in it from the vanilla bean / cinnamon sticks / nutmeg in it. I know that this is from me dumping my secondary ingredients straight into the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I avoid the sediment in the future when I do things like dry-hop or add ingredients to secondary? Is there a good nylon bag or something I can use? A filter of some sort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8116" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T19:38:54.597" Title="Ingredients in Seconday - Prevent Particles In Beer" Tags="|ingredients|secondary|sediment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13357" CreationDate="2014-12-06T18:48:48.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nylon bag&lt;/strong&gt;: Put everything into a thin-mesh &quot;hop bag&quot; -- for example the &quot;feet&quot; part of pantyhose can work well (preferably obtained new). But a bag may be difficult to insert into (and remove from) a glass carboy. The PET plastic carboys, however, have bigger openings and can accommodate the bag better, depending on how many ingredients you have in the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nylon &quot;filter&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;: This would go onto your siphon/racking tube on the end that you insert into the carboy of green beer. Just cut a few square inches of pantyhose (preferably obtained new) and fasten this piece over the opening of the siphon tube using a sanitized tie-wrap. This end-piece will act as a filter against even fairly small particles and works well also in wine making to prevent loose oak particles from being racked further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastEditorUserId="8421" LastEditDate="2014-12-06T19:11:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T19:11:37.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13357" CreationDate="2014-12-06T19:38:54.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the secondary fermenter has been sitting still throughout the conditioning weeks, all of your augments should have settled to the bottom.  Some stuff floats at the top, even when they've been wet for weeks, but most things sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To setup for bottling, bring your bottling bucket to the secondary fermenter without moving the fermenter or otherwise disturbing the settled materials.  Then with the bucket sitting beneath the fermenter, insert the siphon's intake hose into your brew, being careful not to let it touch the settled materials.  Move slowly so that the hose's movement doesn't cause currents in your brew as these can also resuspend settled particles.  Try to keep the hose's intake pointed up towards the top of your brew, or at least horizontal to the surface, this will help keep the currents flowing into the intake, away from the settled particles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to siphon your beer from the clear middle zone, above the settled augments but below anything floating on top.  If you are careful, you should be able to siphon off most of your beer without adding any particles to the bucket.  Once you get most of the clean beer into your bucket, stop there.  In this technique, you will only be bottling what is in your bucket at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you are leaving some good beer behind in the fermenter, but you are also investing your bottling efforts into only the best of what you've made.  These bottles will be very clear compared to your first batch.  There are other things you can do to increase the clarity even more, such as adding geletin, but good transfer technique is where clear beer begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important that you keep the secondary fermenter perfectly still for about a week before you start the transfer, to let any suspended particles settle.  So, long before bottling day, you need to place your secondary fermenter up on something stable, at a height where the bottling bucket can sit beneath it.  Siphoning only works down hill, so the brew in bucket will only rise to the level of the opening in the intake hose.  Keep that in mind when you situate your secondary fermenter for this task, a week before bottling day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step after transferring the clean beer into your bottling bucket is to dump the rest of your beer into a large glass or clear plastic pitcher.  Don't worry about all the sediment you have mixed up into this beer during the &quot;dumping&quot; process.  It may look like pond water, but it will be drinkable again soon.  Put this pitcher in your fridge and let its contents settle while you bottle up the clean beer.  By the time you are done, most of the suspended stuff will have settled, so you can carefully pour yourself a cold brew.  This won't be as clear as what you bottled, but it should be drinkable.  If it is too gritty, put a coffee filter in a large funnel and pour from the pitcher, through the funnel, into your glass.  With a little patience (and tolerance for grit), you should be able to recover most of your unclean beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T19:38:54.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="108" CreationDate="2014-12-07T00:09:23.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick a store that has been around in your town for a long time. Go in&#xA;on a Saturday afternoon and see how busy they are. Usually only a&#xA;couple of these places will have survived 10 years or more anyway, so&#xA;any place that's been around that long will be just fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once inside, I would not worry about anything they have in their&#xA;fridge. All yeast and hops today are vacuum-packed and if kept&#xA;refrigerated before the (usually conservative) expiry date will be perfectly fine to use. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The least of your worries are malt extracts, since these are what everyone&#xA;buys and so the turn-over is high.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your main worry needs to be &lt;em&gt;your own partial&lt;/em&gt; ingredients, left-overs&#xA;that have stayed in your own fridge (or worse, kitchen cabinet) for 6&#xA;months after you first opened them. That 100g &lt;em&gt;opened&lt;/em&gt; vacuum pack of hops&#xA;that is half-used and sitting beside the blue cheese in the fridge may not be so fresh if you use the remainder 4 months later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, anything you buy new from an established homebrew supply&#xA;   store will not cause you any grief if used shortly after purchase. Your own leftovers for the&#xA;   next batch might be iffy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastEditorUserId="8421" LastEditDate="2014-12-07T00:15:54.817" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T00:15:54.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13356" CreationDate="2014-12-07T18:51:17.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thought I have is it's due to incomplete fermentation.  Cold crashing a beer after a week will not necessarily make the best beer.  Try leaving it in primary for 3 weeks and see if it improves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T18:51:17.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-07T21:21:45.087" Score="1" ViewCount="3129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read a recipe specifying that pectic is to be added 12 hours after the addition of Campden. Until now I've been mixing in all my additives at the same time, and haven't had any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Does Campden kill off the enzymes if added at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8494" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T13:27:31.347" Title="Campden and Pectic enzyme" Tags="|wine|primary-fermentation|campden|pectic-enzyme|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-07T22:43:32.153" Score="2" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make my own brewing spoon. Can I use myrtlewood for a stirring spoon for beer? Will it change the flavor of the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8528" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T13:49:42.613" Title="Beer stirring spoon" Tags="|beer|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13362" CreationDate="2014-12-08T09:33:28.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/adding.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;jackkeller.net&lt;/a&gt;, the action of pectic enzymes is reduced by high levels of sulphur dioxide. The gases dissipate after the addition of the campden tablets, which is the reason for recommending to wait 12 hours before adding the enzymes. (Whether the enzymes are actually denatured by the sulphur dioxide is somewhat unclear.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T09:33:28.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-08T12:50:07.523" Score="3" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;In fear of going into too much detail and yet not providing enough information to ascertain possible reasons;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any reasonable hypothesis as why one batch of beer would be more bitter than a second batch when re-produced exactly the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any answers as why this may happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best information I can provide are my records.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It stands to reason there will be more questions of me before possible answers can be provided, and I'm happy to provide more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;reply dated 9/12/14&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly thank you to those who responded, I have lunched myself into exploring the information provided to isolate my possible reasons for this batch being higher in bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do feel as I have failed to provide the correct information in order to portray my situation. I beg your forgiveness and have provided the TWO offending records.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus I will endeavour to provide more information and dismiss possible instances that could be causing the fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'To eliminate the variables will assist in finding my mistake'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I have now found out how to use OneNote and this should help to read my records.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Batch #218 was in fact my best beer!&lt;/strong&gt; - #218 did achieve a second place in the local show, thus my perseverance to reproduce it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem batch is #220!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my observations there are two note worthy differences between the batches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The addition of Gelatin to clarify the beer when kegging. Could this be the problem? - NOTE: I hope to disprove this issue once the bottled #220 ( that has no Gelatine ) has had sufficient time to carbonate - will update in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not taking an accurate time in the first batch when the Cacao Nibs where added to the adjunct boil.( #220 notes where taken - 30min before the end of boil )&#xA;From memory # 218 had the Cacoa nibs added as late as 10 min before the end of the adjunct boil, but I can not be sure.  Could this be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deciding factor to use Fining's in #220 was that #218 was 'cloudy' and did not present well when pouring a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the risk of lay it all out for everyone to see I have included my tasting notes. Some comments are brutally honest! - Please see the humour in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might I add that procedurally I have developed what I consider a ridged set of procedures when brewing, my reasoning for this is to be able to reproduce a beer, and I have very successfully achieved this many times before.  But alas 'brewing is an art within the science'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer some comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOPS - To my knowledge the hops was of the same batch, only difference was the date utilising the hops from making #218 and #220 - less than a month. ( hops stored in air tight container in fridge)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WATER - All my brewing water is filtered, two stage down to Carbon 0.2 Micron.  I currently do not take PH readings as I have not ventured into Full Mash Brewing, YET!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast - Both S04 Safale of the same vintage ( stored in fridge )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skimming the krausen - I see the errors of my ways... but in my defence I only conduct this procedure prior to any hops being added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG - Well I do not have and answer to why the FG of #218 was so high &quot;1.019&quot; - Seeing as it was my first attempt at using the Cacao Nibs with an English Bitter I presumed the FG of 1.019 was due to the extra addition of the Nibs!?!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more I review my post I see many avenues that may contribute to my problem, but I hope someone else can see my glaring mistake!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IeoNH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WayxV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8529" LastEditorUserId="8529" LastEditDate="2014-12-09T21:14:34.223" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T09:46:23.063" Title="Why would one batch of beer, brewed the same as the second, be more bitter?" Tags="|beer|bitterness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13365" CreationDate="2014-12-08T13:41:38.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you say the two batches were brewed exactly the same, but surely something changed to produce the different results. Here are a few possibilities off the top of my head, assuming the recipes are identical:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;alpha acid levels&lt;/a&gt; in the bittering hops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different levels of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sulfate&lt;/a&gt; in the brewing water, affecting the perception of the bitterness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High mash pH, sparge temperature, or steeping temperature, leading to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter13-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tannin extraction&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/kegging/item/182-beat-yeast-bite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yeast bite&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are plenty of others I've missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T13:41:38.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13363" CreationDate="2014-12-08T13:49:42.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't answer as to how myrtlewood would affect the beer, but I do want to mention that it's generally not a good idea to let anything made of wood touch your wort or beer after the boil because the porous wood can harbor all kinds of microbes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Around the 15th century, some of the brewing monks started to catch on to the way the angels (yeasts) were working. They found that if they used the same wooden spoon to stir their cooled wort, the same good spirit resulted. This technique was also used by the latter day Vikings, but they used oak staves carved with runes. The reason why these tools worked their miracles was that yeast fermentation cultures would live in the wood. Even when the spoon or rune was dried, the yeast culture could live dormant in the wood until the next use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.com/articles/yeast-and-fermentation.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewing.com/articles/yeast-and-fermentation.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T13:49:42.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13365" CreationDate="2014-12-08T13:50:00.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your notes indicate that with this batch (218) you are back to using S04 as the yeast. If batch 208 was brewed using a different yeast that is probably a big part of the answer.  Different yeasts hold onto hop oils and alpha acids in different ways.  Its quite possible that you'd notice a perceived difference in IBUs if the yeast was different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also true if the pitching rates were different as well. But if you are using dry yeast that's likely not a factor if you kept the same pack size each brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your notes also seem to indicate skimming the krausen before adding the nibs.  The krausen usually contains a lot of hop oils in it as well.  Some of those get back into the beer after the krausen falls.  If you skimmed it out then you'd have less IBUs in the brew too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tell me if I am at all close to understanding your notes (which I think are great BTW).&#xA;I'll edit my answer if new info becomes available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  What the heck I'll add one more thing.  What was the FG of batch 208?  This FG at 1.019 is a little high.  Residual gravity can have a profound effect on perceived bitterness too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2:  I think a strong candidate is the gelatin fining.  The fining would have dropped more yeast and protein.  All of which hold on to hop resins.  Once those things dropped out, your perceived bitterness would drop as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-12-10T14:35:33.463" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T14:35:33.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12532" CreationDate="2014-12-08T14:45:19.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Idiot-proofing the fermentation temperatures has been a bit of a peeve of mine right now, as I use a family member's basement as a brewery and I have little control of the ambient room temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The DIY solution I am working on uses a $15 digital thermostat/controller with a sinkable probe from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_odkw=12V%2F110V%2F220V%20Digital%20LCD%20Thermostat%20Temperature%20Regulator%20Controller%20Aquarium&amp;amp;_from=R40&amp;amp;_osacat=0&amp;amp;_from=R40&amp;amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X12V%2F110V%2F220V%20Digital%20LCD%20Thermostat%20Temperature%20Regulator&amp;amp;_nkw=12V%2F110V%2F220V%20Digital%20LCD%20Thermostat%20Temperature%20Regulator&amp;amp;_sacat=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ebay&lt;/a&gt; to switch on/off a typical brewing heat belt (a FermWrap would be better if I had one) at set temperature thresholds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow this video tutorial on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7I-iwFLykxs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt;, plug in and install the heat belt and sterilize/sink the probe into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen people use this system to activate a space heater for entire brew rooms, which might be economical if I wasn't using an entire basement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8530" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T14:45:19.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-09T04:53:42.760" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're currently trying to get a lager to go through its primary fermentation but after 2 days, we haven't seen any action or changes on the surface of the wort. The wort had a full packet of yeast that the brewing store guy said is more than enough for the fermentation. Another fact is that the lager is kept in an environment around 45F, several degrees lower than the ideal 50F which might be slowing the process. I'm wondering if this is common in bottom fermentation or the yeast maybe dead in our case; compared to the top fermentation that we've tried previously to make an IPA which showed an immediate and noticeable reaction within 12 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8532" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T12:56:57.410" Title="Not seeing fermentation on lager's primary fermentation" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|lager|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13337" CreationDate="2014-12-09T05:15:39.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out it was the $40 Blichmann Brewmometer sticking.  Exchanging it tomorrow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8513" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T05:15:39.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13370" CreationDate="2014-12-09T05:52:45.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that your yeast was alive, 45F is a bit on the cold side to start. I would bring it into the house to get it to &quot;go off&quot;, and then take it back to your cold room once it starts fermenting.You may also have &quot;shocked&quot; the yeast if your wort was a bit hot when you pitched. If so, there may not have been as much viable yeast left, and it would take a while to come to life. 48 hours is a long time though, and you are in danger of a bacterial infection overtaking the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to get a new yeast packet and rehydrate that to be ready to pitch as well, just in case you had a bad batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8534" LastEditorUserId="8534" LastEditDate="2014-12-09T06:02:15.480" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T06:02:15.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3348" CreationDate="2014-12-09T05:57:29.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's extremely unlikely that the cold crash will remove 100% of the yeast. There will be some left. It might take a little longer for the carbonation to start, but it will happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have crashed in a fridge and left it there for &lt;em&gt;weeks&lt;/em&gt;, and still had enough yeast to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8534" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T05:57:29.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13370" CreationDate="2014-12-09T12:56:57.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a gravity reading. Visual inspection doesn't tell you much about whether fermentation is happening or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8535" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T12:56:57.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13377" CreationDate="2014-12-09T17:38:31.557" Score="1" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Will cold crashing after a beer is bottled (and waited 2 weeks for the carbonation) give you the same clarity as doing it in the fermenter prior to bottling (assuming you pour your beer carefully given the extra sediment that will exist)? Are there different rules to follow if you bottle cold crash vs fermenter cold crash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I brewed an Irish Ale. Everything turned out great except I wish I tried cold crashing it prior to bottling. I haven't done it before and I am itching to find out how much impact cold crashing has relative to other practices to &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/issues/item/486-conquer-chill-haze&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;combating chill haze&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is has good clarity (from what I can tell) at room temp but, of course, produces chill haze when refrigerated. I have done some experiments with almost freezing a bottle (carefully) and then refrigerating it.  Amazingly, within a day, the beer is noticeably clearer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the purposes of keeping the question directly on the &lt;strong&gt;Cold Crashing&lt;/strong&gt; technique, I have produced a good rolling boil, used Irish moss, cooled wort down within 15 minutes using a counter flow chiller, primary fermented for 2 weeks, secondary for 3 weeks and no gelatin (since I would need to cold crash for it to work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;I have seen this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11390/cold-crashing-in-the-bottle&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  but didn't did not quite address the question I have above. It did address the question if bottle crashing can be done but didn't describe the effectiveness and differences relative to doing it in the fermenter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T20:16:59.350" Title="Neglected to Cold Crash after fermentation" Tags="|clarity|cold-crash|clarification|fining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13378" CreationDate="2014-12-09T19:51:02.557" Score="6" ViewCount="2062" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting a Chugger pump for Christmas. I have never used a pump in my brewing and I haven't yet bought the hardware and tubing so I have some questions. I do know that I need a ball valve on the pump outlet to control the flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - I would like to use hose barbs (without clamps) to quickly change the hoses that are connected to the pump. Will half-inch hose barbs and half-inch silicone tubing create enough of a seal to prevent leaks when the pump is creating pressure or do I need to get quick disconnects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - If I do use quick disconnects, is there a preferred way to arrange the male and female connectors? Male on the pump and female on the hoses or female on the pump and male on the hoses or some other combination? I just wonder if there is any advantage to a particular arrangement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 - Since the pump inlet has to be below the liquid and the outlet will also be below the container I'll be pumping into, I assume that when the inflow runs out the hose on the outlet side will be full of liquid that can no longer be pushed along. Is that correct? If so, how do you handle disconnecting the hose without spilling the liquid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 - If I want to pump into a container that has a ball valve on it, is there any reason I can't attach the pump outlet hose to that ball valve and open it to pump the liquid in through the ball valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 - Any other tips or recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T05:28:25.687" Title="Using a pump for brewing" Tags="|brewing|pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13375" CreationDate="2014-12-09T20:16:59.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you put your bottled beer in the refrigerator and let it sit, it usually will be crystal clear within a few weeks, even if it starts out with chill haze. I think the only difference between cold crashing before bottling and cold crashing in the bottle would be the amount of sediment you'll end up with in the bottle. When you crash before bottling, you leave most of the yeast and stuff that falls out behind when you rack the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I used to have terrible trouble with chill haze until I made two adjustments to my process. First, I switched from Irish moss to Whirlfloc. For whatever reason, the Irish moss just wasn't getting it done for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, I began adjusting my mash chemistry. Someone was kind enough to make my local water report available online so I can use Brewer's Friend's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/mash-chemistry-and-brewing-water-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mash Chemistry and Brewing Water Calculator&lt;/a&gt; to fine-tune my mash. I aim for a 5.4 pH. These adjustments have had a great impact on the quality and clarity of my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T20:16:59.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13376" CreationDate="2014-12-09T20:19:35.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;1/ No. You can either use hose that's going to be frustratingly difficult to swap off the barbs because it's 1/16&quot; or 1/4&quot; too small, or hose that's easy to remove but needs clamps to keep a seal. Get quick disconnects. If you &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcmaster.com/#6739k64/=uya20z&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;get brass&lt;/a&gt;, make sure it's lead-free. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcmaster.com/#cam-and-groove-hose-couplings/=uya2ac&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stainless camlocks&lt;/a&gt; are often considered a good cost/benefit tradeoff, but ymmv. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/male-stainless-quick-disconnect-x-1-2-barb.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stainless sheath disconnects&lt;/a&gt; might work for you, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't done a proper cost comparison between these options, so I can't advise. I use the brass QDs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2/ Female on hose ends, male on connectors made and continues to make sense for me. Both from an operational and cost standpoint. You generally manipulate the female connector, and usually you're connecting hoses to things, not things to hoses. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3/ You don't, you catch it either with a bucket or floor drain. I have a couple of bus tubs for catching drips and liquid left in the lines. You can find QDs with integrated valves (when disconnected, there's no flow), but the cost goes up a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4/ No, I do this all the time, both pumping from HLT -&gt; mashtun, mashtun -&gt; kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5a/ (As you said,) put a ball valve on the &lt;em&gt;outflow&lt;/em&gt; of your pump, to control flow rate, but also consider building a purge/priming valve, too. Getting those pump-heads air-free can be a bit of a dance of disconnecting lines, opening/closing valves, checking flow, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5b/ When doing things like re-circulating for chilling or filling the FV, post-chilling, I have a piece of tubing with a male QD at one end, and just cut off on the other end. With an 90-angle female QD, I can drape the connector over the lip of my kettle and dangle the free end into the bottom of the kettle to keep from splashing during recirc. Similarly, that tubing is long enough to reach the bottom of my carboys to fill from the bottom w/o much splashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-12-09T21:03:03.527" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T21:03:03.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13316" CreationDate="2014-12-09T21:12:32.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't. I've warped an Auto-siphon that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8539" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T21:12:32.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9950" CreationDate="2014-12-09T21:28:28.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Haven't done anything with cinnamon, but have used a high quality vanilla extract (only alcohol extract, no sugars). I use some right at the end of the boil and another infusion in the secondary. I've had good luck with it and with the high alcohol nature, I didn't experience any issues putting it in the secondary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind a little goes a long way. If you use whole beans, make sure to open the pod, but you may want to put it in a hop bag so the vanilla bits don't get in the wort...unless you don't care about that. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8540" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T21:28:28.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2014-12-10T05:01:21.283" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Star-San used in the correct concentration won't affect your beer. If you do decide to rinse, boil enough water to rinse and allow it to cool. Otherwise, you risk re-introducing contaminants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8543" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T20:25:57.647" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T20:25:57.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5713" CreationDate="2014-12-10T14:34:00.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also consider if you are bottling.  Wouldn't you need the temperature to be high enough for the yeast to do its thing to carbonate the beer?  I’m going through this right now with a colder secondary and I had to use a fish tank heater to keep it around 65 and I’m planning on making sure my beer is at least 65 before I bottle it.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8544" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T14:34:00.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13393" CreationDate="2014-12-11T23:58:53.973" Score="1" ViewCount="1570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an 1800 watt induction cooktop and 2 1000 watt bucket heaters that unfortunately were not able to boil 6.5 gallons of H2O in 90 minutes, although it appeared to get close and perhaps 0.5-1.0 gallons evaporated over the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that brewers using induction cooktops sometimes add Reflextic or other insulation material to help the boil out, but in the pictures they all use lids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that I'm using the bucket heaters, I can not seal the lid on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pardon the ignorance, but would insulation help the boil materially, if the lid was off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit -- &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I bought the Reflectix and adjusted it for my kettle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cms1B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seemed to help the kettle heat up faster -- but the water never began to boil without me &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/13396/bucket-heaters-and-condensation-safety-lid-considerations&quot;&gt;placing a lid on it&lt;/a&gt;, at which point it began to boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T04:50:31.037" Title="Would insulation on a kettle help a boil at all if the lid was off?" Tags="|boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-12T04:04:52.297" Score="2" ViewCount="783" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are brewing a Saison-style, all-grain beer.  We had a multi-stage, multi-temperature mash process requiring us to get the mash to a set temp then hold it for a period then increase the heat and repeat.  This process went smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We completed the sparge and subsequently the boil, and all went to plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We cooled, pitched the yeast and commenced the primary (aerobic) fermentation for one week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We then transferred to our secondary (anaerobic) fermentation, and this is where things started to awry.  We had an OG of 1063 and we're targeting an FG of 1015-ish.  We've had a very active secondary fermentation, yet after almost three weeks the gravity is still only 1040 and has been holding steady for a week at this level, whilst still very active in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doubt and worry is creeping in.  We don't want to bottle whilst the gravity is still this high, but we don't quite know what's wrong or what to do next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions / explanations / recommendations for next steps would be very gratefully received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9548" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2014-12-13T17:44:29.973" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T14:28:29.887" Title="Saison fermentation stuck around 1.035" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13392" CreationDate="2014-12-12T04:43:48.577" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a whim I decided to throw some Cider in a bucket, so I went to the store and grabbed some. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I took a chance and bought 2/3 no preservatives and 1/3 preservative (4.5 Gallons total) in order to lower costs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I added about 1/2 lb brown sugar and about 8 oz of honey.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added acid, energizer, and a campden tablet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am letting it site for 24 hrs, my question is can I do anything about the preservatives? I figured I could just dilute but some sites seem to suggest starting a culture with a small bottle of preservative free cider for a couple days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also on the side, is leaving the preserved at room temp OK for a couple days with the Campden without any issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9549" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2014-12-12T12:39:56.773" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T12:42:52.417" Title="Can I deal with diluted amounts of preservatives and still get good hard cider?" Tags="|cider|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13389" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-12T05:29:05.413" Score="1" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did my 4th brew, my OG was lower than expected, and I'm looking for help with process improvements. I'm doing an all grain process. I have an 8gal kettle, a 2gal kettle, and a 0.5gal kettle. For the mash tun I have a 10gal home depot converted cooler with ball valve control spigot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My process is as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Day before - fill the kettles with water, let them sit 24 hours with a Campden tablet shared between the pots. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heat 6.5gal of water in the 8-gal kettle to 160F. Warm the mash tun, check the water is still 160F.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dump the grain into the mash tun, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tip the 6.5gal of 160F water into the mash tun. Actually this starts out by moving it 1 quart at a time as I'm unable to safely dump the entire 6.5 gal of hot water in one shot anyway, and I heard it was better to add it slowly to the dry grain. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stir with my giant 24&quot; spoon to check no air pockets  (just at the start)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then leave for an hour. (temp remains constant for the hour within 150-155F - typically around 152F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recirculate until the flow of wort is relatively clear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drain until empty back into the 8 gallon kettle - this typically yields about 4.2 gal. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile I've heated the 2 gal kettle and 1/2 gal kettle to 170F&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dump 2.5gal of 170F water into the mash tun to sparge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stir briefly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait 15 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recirculate until flow of wort is relatively clear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add this to the kettle until the kettle is back up to the 6.5gal mark&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boil for an hour adding hops and Irish moss as prescribed&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;45 minutes into the boil add the wort chiller to sanitize it (no water flow connected).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer to the sink, connect the water flow to the chiller, also add blocks of ice into the sink&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stir the wort with the chiller and drop the temperature down to 70-75F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Siphon to 6.5 gal better bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test OG - this is usually done with the final, rather trubby, bit of the wort. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait until airlock starts to bubble, then chill to prescribed fermentation temp in a temp controlled modified-freezer.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recipe involved 11 lbs of grain for a pilsner, with an expected OG of 1.049 mine measured 1.044, so a little lower than expected. My previous brew called for an expected OG of 1.062 but my process only yielded 1.051 so lower still. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering - are my OG's lower because I'm using a higher volume (6.5gal for the boil) than a typical recipe expects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, with a 5gal recipe - what exactly is supposed to be 5gal? The pre boil volume, the post boil including trub volume, the volume initially put into the fermenter without the trub, or the bottled volume? I've been trying to target 5gals into the bottles, my last round yielded 4.66gal. But perhaps this is my misunderstanding and might completely explain my OG delta?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MANY thanks for reading this long one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9551" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T00:49:31.380" Title="Looking for process improvement suggestions" Tags="|all-grain|original-gravity|process|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13389" CreationDate="2014-12-12T08:44:50.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Change that batch sparge to a fly sparge if you can. Use a good false bottom with little dead space (something like this works great: &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/products/stainless-steel-false-bottom-12-diameter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://morebeer.com/products/stainless-steel-false-bottom-12-diameter.html&lt;/a&gt;).&#xA;Also remember that the sparge needs even, unidirectional flow to get the sugars away from the grain. Never stir it if you don't absolutely have to.&#xA;By stirring you're pushing sugarless, slightly tannic water from the top of the grain bed closer to the drain, making the wort weaker and more bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T08:44:50.850" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13388" CreationDate="2014-12-12T12:42:52.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to overcome the effects of the preservative you need to pitch more yeast than in a preservative free situation.  Normally if you are pitching one packet of yeast I'd say do too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a good sized pitch of active yeast is a great idea too.  You can start some liquid yeast in malt extract and 24-26 hours later pitch the whole thing.  Its not perfect but its a start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing how you are diluting the preservative by 60% that should also make it easier on the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes the preserved stuff at RT for a couple days isn't going to hurt it any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T12:42:52.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13386" CreationDate="2014-12-12T12:46:27.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything you can do to retain heat in a system improves performance so the answer is yes.  That being said though heat does rise and a lid would have a much more dramatic impact on heat loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add a loose lid while trying to achieve boil.  Once at boiling it takes less energy to maintain it than it did to get to the BP.  So hopefully you have enough wattage to maintain a boil with the lid off after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be sure to keep checking it so you don't get a surprise boil over when you aren't paying attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T12:46:27.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12836" CreationDate="2014-12-12T20:04:42.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up priming most of the batch with sugar as Tobias recommended, but set aside a small number of experimental bottles that I primed with sweet pear cider. I didn't notice any difference between the batches when drinking them, although I didn't do a side-by-side comparison, just alternated which batch I grabbed a bottle from. I added about 1oz of sweet cider per bottle, so the yield was improve by 9%, or about 1 extra bottle per gallon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will probably continue priming with sweet cider in the future when it is convenient to do so due to the increased yield, but the benefits are pretty small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8168" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T20:04:42.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13396" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-13T04:49:58.947" Score="3" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT - After many different attempts, I've learned these bucket heaters definitely shut them self off when the water starts boiling (and turn back on when the water drops somewhat below boiling), unfortunately. IMO they are only useful for HERMS.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased 3 of these &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000BDB4UG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bucket heaters&lt;/a&gt; to assist my induction stove boil wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions state the following safety warnings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DO NOT COMPLETELY IMMERSE THIS PRODUCT IN WATER. The handle and power cord are not designed to withstand boiling water. Always keep the handle and power cord out of water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 2 of them, after 1 hour and 30 minutes, 6.5 gallons of water approached boiling but never got there. Once I attached a lid to the kettle, it began boiling (albeit not that much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how I attached a lid to it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kMJj4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm concerned about is that there is condensation forming on the handle/guard, with or without the lid. The lid simply concentrates the steam to the handle/guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this safe? I hope to just keep the lid on until it boils and then take it off. I've ordered a third to see if it will boil stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T02:04:07.940" Title="Bucket Heaters and Condensation safety / Lid considerations" Tags="|safety|bucket-heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13387" CreationDate="2014-12-13T16:27:11.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As noted in the comments, WYeast 3724 is well known for stalling/slowing down at around 1.035. I've used this yeast in the past, and it will eventually achieve over 80% apparent attenuation. I used a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brew-belt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brew belt&lt;/a&gt; to heat the beer, and wrapped the carboy in blankets to insulate it. This brought the temperature up to the mid 80's F. It took a few weeks to finish fermenting, even at that temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T16:27:11.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-13T19:47:08.387" Score="4" ViewCount="2801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I passed my water through those cheap water filters and sent it to Ward Industries for a water test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It came back with 61 PPM of chloride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 3rd edition of the Joy of Homebrewing, Charlie Papazian states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you use municipal water that is treated with chlorine, one of the simplest and most dramatic things you can do to improve your beers is to pass all brewing water through a countertop of more elaborate charcoal-type filter to remove chlorine. Chlorine will combine with organic compounds (beer worts included) and produce chlorophenols that even in parts per billion can lend a harsh flavor and aroma to your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what level of chloride in my water (PPM) is good enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T20:02:36.563" Title="How much Chloride in PPM is too much for All Grain?" Tags="|all-grain|water|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13398" CreationDate="2014-12-13T22:47:45.690" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a distinct difference between chloride, which is a dissolved Cl- ion, and free residual chlorine (or the longer-lasting chloramine ions). The chloride is likely fine. The 61ppm concentration would make your water smell like a pool (or stronger) if it were chlorine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chlorine residual test must be conducted within 15 minutes of taking the sample. Otherwise the chlorine dissipates, either by breaking down in sunlight, or off gassing into the atmosphere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about the possible effects of a chlorine residual, aerate your water or let it sit overnight in a lousy covered vessel. Then pitch your yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8175" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T22:47:45.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13401" CreationDate="2014-12-14T01:32:53.573" Score="5" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically I pitted and smashed 10 lbs. of very ripe plums; heated the pulp, skins and juice to like 120°F and added 3 gals. of distilled water and 5 lbs. of sugar. Waited for it to cool below 90°F then strained it into a bucket and added 1-2 tbsp. of bread yeast. Then put it in a carboy with an airlock, it has been only one day and the airlock is already bubbling madly. I am going to distill it in my pot still and hope for a delicious plum brandy. I am concerned about bacterial or mold growth but am not sure if I need to be. I am thinking it should be done fermenting in like a week. Do I need one of these additive tablets or will it not be a big deal because I will distill immediately after my airlock stops bubbling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9552" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T21:24:35.173" Title="Do I need an anti-microbial additive in my plum brandy mash?" Tags="|fermentation|mash|distillation|yeast-washing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13400" CreationDate="2014-12-14T16:40:50.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this point in the process, you're pretty much committed to letting the ferment continue to completion. With fruit wine, the usual course of action is to add meta-bisulphite to the juice or pulp, and leave it for 24 hours before adding the yeast. The sulphite reduces the activity of wild yeasts and bacteria, giving the brewer's yeast a head start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fruit is in good condition (i.e. no bruising or rot), some wine-makers will skip this step entirely. Pitching a lot of healthy, active yeast is usually sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding sulphite while fermentation is active will just reduce the activity of the brewer's yeast, which is not at all helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T16:40:50.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-15T15:27:04.103" Score="3" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bottled my ale, it's been bottled for 2 weeks in the warm. I want to drink it in about a week but it's still very cloudy. Should I cold crash to clear it or hope that in another week it will be clear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8304" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T07:12:14.997" Title="cold crash bottled ale" Tags="|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13402" CreationDate="2014-12-15T17:42:15.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, that's a good idea.  Give it a week or 2 cold and it should clear up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T17:42:15.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13398" CreationDate="2014-12-15T20:02:36.563" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As someone noted, chlorine and chloride are two different things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, zero chlor&lt;em&gt;ine&lt;/em&gt; and chloramine is desirable in your beer. Chlorine can bind with phenols in beer and form chlorophenols, a common homebrew flaw that leads to off-flavors described as medicinal, plastick-y, band-aid-like, or sometimes like electrical smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3447/what-are-the-various-ways-to-remove-chlorine-chloramine-from-tap-water&quot;&gt;many ways to avoid or remove chlorine/chloramine from brewing water&lt;/a&gt;, but one of the easiest and foolproof ways is to treat all brewing water with crush Campden tableta at an approximate rate of one tablet per 20 gallons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as chlor&lt;em&gt;ide&lt;/em&gt;, there is no minimum or maximum level within reason. Chloride will tend to give a sense of fullness in your beer (in the same way that sodium chloride aka table salt helps round out flavors in a sweet cookie, for example). What &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; important is the ratio of chloride to sulfates in your water (lower is usually considered for hoppier beers, and higher for maltier beers). When considering specific levels of chloride in your brewing water, it is more useful to consider all of the ions in your water holistically, to consider the ideal water profile for the style of beer being brewed, and then to adjust the ions (minerals) in the water for both pH and flavor contribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T20:02:36.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13405" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-16T08:13:44.580" Score="2" ViewCount="712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on my HERMS setup and have a few PIDS and temp sensors to work with. The problem is that the temp sensors show about 5 degrees celsius off when I first set it up. I Raised the water in my HLT to 70 deg celsius and measured with three different ordinary thermometers. Two digital and one glass. All three was quite near each other. At least enough for my needs. Within 0.5-1 degree celcius. I calibrated the PIDs (tested with a MyPin and a Sestos PID) and everything was fine. &#xA;When I lowered the temp the difference increased and when I reached 20 deg celsius there was about 5 deg difference again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both PIDs show the same difference. I have tried 4 different temp sensors PT100. Same problem with all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea why it is not linear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9560" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T22:11:32.500" Title="Calibrating PID. Temperature probes PT100 not linear" Tags="|temperature-control|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13387" CreationDate="2014-12-16T14:13:27.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Supposedly WY3724/WLP565 (aka Dupont) is a wine yeast that evolved over time to work in a brewery application (Dupont's brewery).  This would explain why it can work at higher temps than most brewer's yeasts without producing fusel alcohols and excessive phenols/esters.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to it stalling, another characteristic of wine yeasts is that many of them do not work effectively under pressure.  Homebrewing setups, along with commercial brewhouses are set up to have the ferment pressurized (either from gas in the headspace in the case of homebrewing or from forced pressurization in some commercial brewhouses).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution that I have heard to this (but not yet tried) is to use a piece of foil taped over the airlock bung instead of an airlock.  This will let out a lot more gas and not pressurize the fermentation.  I am dying to make a saison now with Dupont, because while there are other yeasts that can make a good saison (including 3711 which I have used and like), Dupont consistently will make a GREAT saison (if treated right!).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally as a general rule, it is not necessary (or recommended by most modern homebrewers) to rack off the yeast until your beer has reached the desired STABLE final gravity, or preferably after it has.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be a little late to try it on this brew, but I would think the combination of warming, rousing, and depressurizing might get it moving again.  If that doesn't work, grow up a slug of brettanomyces and let that finish it off, and try this on the next beer.  Good luck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T14:28:29.887" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T14:28:29.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13389" CreationDate="2014-12-16T21:14:26.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, when a recipe says 5 gallons that generally refers to post-boil volume into the fermenter.  This is how kits do it and I think public recipes in like BYO or zymurgy follow the convention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I'm curious about your numbers.  Could you give more detail about the recipe you were brewing for those example volumes?  Is this for the mentioned 11 pounds of grain, because if it is you're using far too much mash water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pardon me if this is a different recipe and you know this already...Your target should be 1.3-1.5 quarts of water per pound of grain.  Numbers vary a lot online, but you should expect grain to absorb ~.5 quarts per pound of grain.  If your mash is too runny it won't convert as well as you want it to, which might be responsible for your low gravity.  If it seems like your grain isn't absorbing as much as it should, you might still have some dough balls in your mash that aren't getting wet.  I add grain to my water so that I can stir constantly with something slotted, seems to get me less dough issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But double check that math, also it might be helpful to check your post-boil volume as well as your pre-boil, I don't see that in your writeup.  Also marking your kettle and measuring your boil-off per hour would be useful in tweaking your pre-boil target volume to make sure you get as much wort out as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3597" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T21:14:26.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13389" CreationDate="2014-12-17T00:49:31.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I, too, was always coming up a few points short on my OG.  My epiphany was an article in BYO magazine (I think) that explained the need to adjust recipes for one's own equipment and efficiency. My experience lead me to believe that recipes generally use a 72-75% efficiency value, which could explain why those are the defaults in brewing software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I scaled my recipes using a 68% efficiency and now I almost always hit my target OG, without any equipment changes! It just costs me a little more base malt, but that's all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll enter a recipe into brew software like Beersmith, Brew Toad or Brew Target (free). I'll set the efficiency at 75% and then add all of the ingredients in the recipe. I'll adjust the efficiency slightly until it matches the recipe's OG (usually 72-75%). This represents the &quot;originally published&quot; recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, I'll change the efficiency to 68% (for my equipment) and adjust the malts (usually only the base) until I match the original OG of the recipe. Most software has an option to automatically scale the ingredients when you make efficiency or volume changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Published recipes make assumptions and should only be used as a base. Every brewer would need to make tweaks to account for his/her own process, equipment, efficiency, etc. I'm a novice brewer that switched to all-grain after my first batch. My first two all-grains were disaster-ish: drinkable but very disappointing. So now I just throw a little more grain into it. A pro brewer with crazy efficiency would probably use less grain than what most recipes state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6093" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T00:49:31.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13402" CreationDate="2014-12-17T07:12:14.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The beer will clear with age, but will clear more quickly in cold conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T07:12:14.997" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13396" CreationDate="2014-12-17T07:47:15.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak to the safety of the heaters, other than suggesting you take the black box apart to see whether it is sealed in any significant way.&#xA;In regards to the lid, you really don't want one before or during the boil (if you're using an immersion chiller, you'll want to cover the wort before it gets cool, or contamination could happen). The open lid lets sulfur containing compounds evaporate during the boil.&#xA;When you have 3000W available I think it will boil in a reasonable time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T07:47:15.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13425" CreationDate="2014-12-17T15:35:20.310" Score="3" ViewCount="1305" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extract brew. 23L boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summit - 60 min boil approx. 125g,&#xA;Glacier - 30 min boil, approx. 75g,&#xA;NZ Wakatu - 15 min boil, approx. 50g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All fresh hops, vacuum sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3kg liquid malt extract added after flameout, stirred, fully dissolved in addition to extra brewing sugar to up the gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safale 04 yeast, not sure on the exact code, its the English Ale one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All ingredients ordered from 'The Malt Miller', 2 day delivery, brewed the day after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermented in around 5 days, air locked, left in primary for 1 month (including fermentation) and bottled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's crap. Very little bitterness (for my pallet), average aroma and distinct lack of the flavour profiles expected from the hops I used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's going 'wrong'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate that 'wrong' is very subjective - there isn't any off flavours or anything to indicate it has gone bad, the beer is just massively underwhelming!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastEditorUserId="8335" LastEditDate="2014-12-18T16:15:43.267" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T22:32:37.440" Title="My beer has little to no hop flavour or bitterness. What is going wrong?" Tags="|hops|flavor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3455" CreationDate="2014-12-17T15:51:11.673" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old post, but I would like to add a point to the discussion. Oxidation in beer is primarily a concern for heavily hopped styles. From my understanding and experience, oxidation leads to diminished returns on hop aroma and staling of the hop compounds. Since dry hopping often involves racking to secondary, I think metabisulfite added at this stage (and at bottling) would make a significantly hoppier and fresher tasting DIPA that could hold up to the time it takes to age in bottles. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9569" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T15:51:11.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-17T16:03:14.003" Score="3" ViewCount="1255" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I bottled an extract kit with a friend, divided bottles, drove home, and left them in the car overnight 6pm to 6am. It got down to 5 degrees F, but the beer did not get cold enough to freeze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there anything I can do? I unpacked them somewhere warm and swirled them around a bit, but I'm guessing that even in a refrigerator that long the yeast would go dormant. I know that it's possible to open it back up and repitch the yeast, and I've heard of people measuring out amounts for each bottle, or dumping it back into the carboy and restarting the beer. It was a fairly big beer (1.070) with US-05.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which way is the best? Starter needed? Or is it resilient enough to carbonate despite being that cold overnight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9570" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T22:50:49.317" Title="Left bottles in car overnight - am I screwed?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13415" CreationDate="2014-12-17T17:14:03.217" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast is dormant, not likely dead.  Leave them in a warm place for a couple weeks or so and they should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T17:14:03.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-17T18:23:50.107" Score="2" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi folks I'm after a bit of advice as its my first time doing home brew &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Wilkos dark velvet stout. As it states on the tin to make 40 pints fill, to 23 litres. Now I have a 23 litre fermenting bucket, which gives me 2.5 feet space for the head. Is this enough space?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the lid I have cut a hole for my airlock, and between the rubber that squeezes in the hole for the airlock to sit in it has a couple of small gaps. Does this matter? Does it need to be airtight, or is it better to have the extra gap?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9573" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2014-12-19T18:24:45.830" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T18:24:45.830" Title="Fermenter head space and airlock hole" Tags="|equipment|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13421" CreationDate="2014-12-17T20:18:46.070" Score="6" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cold crash my ales to reduce sediment and clear the beer. My understanding is that even as little as a day would do that. But my brewing partner and I have often (due to time constraints) kept them at low temps ~1c for long periods e.g. a month. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We usually use us-05 but I suppose the question goes for any standard ale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any issues with this length of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any benefits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3131" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T14:35:52.473" Title="Long cold crash for an ale. Benefit or harm?" Tags="|ale|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13415" CreationDate="2014-12-17T22:50:49.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many moons ago, I did a test on freezing yeast (the dregs from various Trappist types).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few weeks in the freezer I thawed them gently and made a little starter culture of each one; they were slow taking off, but certainly some of the yeast had survived.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9576" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T22:50:49.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13417" CreationDate="2014-12-18T01:36:13.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fermenter should not be full to the brim, there will be at least a couple cm of foam (kreusen) on top of the beer when the yeast get going. Without space, it will try, and succeed, to get out.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There should be no gaps in the fermenter. In theory, small gap wouldn't be so bad during the primary fermentation because the kreusen and the flow of CO2 will keep oxygen out, but:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a. fruit flies love beer too (and carry beer-spoiling bacteria).   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b. after the foam goes away oxygen from the gap will ruin your beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T01:36:13.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13418" CreationDate="2014-12-18T03:51:47.483" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're doing is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.org/Lagering--Chapter-1-Common-Misconceptions_ep_58-1.html&quot;&gt;lagering&lt;/a&gt; the beer, so it would have the same benefits it has for a lager beer. Beer deteriorates much more slowly at cold temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only possible problem I know of is that after that much time you might not have enough yeast left in suspension to carbonate the beer in the bottle. If that's what you intend to do, it'd be a good idea to add a little yeast to the bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T03:51:47.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13418" CreationDate="2014-12-18T14:35:52.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I routinely do this.  Namely because of time constraints as well.  My normal brewing process involves brewing once a month.  So when brewing the next batch I am tending to the previous batch which was fermented and then crash for a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T14:35:52.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13417" CreationDate="2014-12-18T15:39:28.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The extra head space is fine.  You need some space for the krausen which will build up on top of your beer.  If it didn't have space to build up, it would eventually stop up your airlock and could either blow out the airlock or pop the lid off your fermenter.  Here is more info on the krausen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A head of foamy krausen will form on top of the beer. The foam consists of yeast and wort proteins and is a light creamy color, with islands of green-brown gunk that collect and tend to adhere to the sides of the fermentor. The gunk is composed of extraneous wort protein, hop resins, and dead yeast. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-2-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;howtobrew.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You do not want a gap.  The reason for the airlock is to keep air (oxygen) and other living organisms such as bugs and anything that could infect the beer out.  Do you have something you can fill the gaps with?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T15:39:28.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12898" CreationDate="2014-12-18T15:56:00.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to double check the calculators, but often if something looks off, it's because I didn't input it right. I usually use an online calculator and software (Brewtarget), but I sometimes use a spread sheet with formulas derived from &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/brown-ale/item/410-calculating-water-usage-advanced-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/brown-ale/item/410-calculating-water-usage-advanced-brewing&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter16-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter16-3.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T15:56:00.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13413" CreationDate="2014-12-18T16:09:26.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you always add your malt extract at flameout?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern here is having malt present in the boil with the hops allows for some of the flavor compounds to be extracted from the hops. Boiling the malt extract for 60 minutes also drives off dimethyl sulfide aroma compounds and coagulates proteins in the malt to create &quot;hot break&quot; material. I recommend adding at least half your malt extract at the beginning of the boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, English strains generally tend to mute hop character. I'm not familiar with dry yeasts, but consider using Safale 05 (American ale strain) for more hop flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9569" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T16:09:26.410" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12898" CreationDate="2014-12-18T16:24:47.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forget the calculators...it's easier to do it empirically.  And a couple of misconceptions...you don't necessarily need to boil pils malt for 90 min.  I never do more than 70 (10 min, for hot break, then 60 after that) and have no problems.  Also, figuring boil off in % is not accurate.  You don't boil off twice as much for a 10 gal. batch as a 5 gal. batch.  So, start with figuring out what you boil volume needs to be.  For me, a 12 gal. batch would need 13.5-14 gal. pre boil.  Mash at 1.65 qt./lb., rounding up to the nearest qt.  When you run off your mash, measure how much wort you have in your kettle.  Subtract that from your pre boil volume.  The answer you get will be how much sparge water to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T16:24:47.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12004" CreationDate="2014-12-18T16:35:55.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your goal in high gravity beers to make it lighter bodied? Adding enzymes after fermentation will accomplish this, but it will take time (like you said) and it will not lead to any more alcohol production. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might I suggest a more popular and proven alternative to using enzymes to thin your high gravity beer: mash at a lower temperature (or conduct a step mash) and use simple sugars (e.g. table sugar, syrups, honey etc) in your recipe to achieve a lower F.G. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9569" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T16:35:55.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-18T16:36:13.543" Score="0" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;my cider started at 190 and now is 150 and has been still for about a month, can I drink and bottle it at this time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8481" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T03:25:57.730" Title="can i bottle cider at 150 sg it has been still for a month" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13428" CreationDate="2014-12-18T19:06:37.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can&lt;/em&gt; I drink and bottle it at this time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Should&lt;/em&gt; you drink and bottle it at this time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely not.  It will be sickeningly sweet and will probably end up being bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8330" LastEditorUserId="8330" LastEditDate="2014-12-19T00:27:51.080" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T00:27:51.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13432" CreationDate="2014-12-18T21:28:45.530" Score="1" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a 5 gallon all-grain batch of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/allgrain/AG-PalmersElevenses.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;John Palmer's Elevenses&lt;/a&gt; in primary for just over a week. When I was brewing, I haphazardly dumped twice the prescribed amount of bittering hops (German Northern Brewer) in for the full 60 minutes. The recipe asks for 0.6oz, and I added the full 1oz sachet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon testing the gravity last night I tasted the beer and it's very bitter, but otherwise good. Is there anything I can do, adjuncts I can add, hops I could add to secondary that might mask or &quot;fix&quot; this excessive bitterness I've induced? It's got a bit longer to go in primary before racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8418" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T18:33:02.437" Title="Overload of bittering hops, any &quot;fixes&quot;?" Tags="|hops|all-grain|bitterness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13431" CreationDate="2014-12-18T21:37:53.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really. Time will reduce the bitterness somewhat, but not a great deal. If it's undrinkable, your best bet is to brew a second beer with very little hop bitterness and blend the two beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T21:37:53.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13437" CreationDate="2014-12-19T06:28:11.433" Score="0" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I inherited a slew of brewing equipment and ingredients from a friend, but am not sure if it is usable, it's been in storage for a while. &#xA;Specifically the malts have melted into chunks(a dry imported malt sold by brewcraft(partially used, ei opened)and a briess Pilsen light from crosby&amp;amp;baker).&#xA;I am reasonably sure of the other ingredients but have found nothing about shelf life of malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9582" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T14:38:57.970" Title="Can I still use malts that have melted?" Tags="|ingredients|malt|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13433" CreationDate="2014-12-19T09:20:24.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I'm unclear on the 'melting' that happened (specialty grains are usually whole grains, but dried extract will solidify with a bit of water) the malts probably got wet and may have grown mold. Don't waste your time with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T09:20:24.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-19T13:05:56.067" Score="4" ViewCount="6819" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I buy homemade ginger beer (in South Africa), there are often small black raisins floating in it, about 1cm in diameter. Why did the makers decide to put them in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9583" LastActivityDate="2022-01-23T07:54:22.567" Title="Why are there raisins floating in my ginger beer?" Tags="|ingredients|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13435" CreationDate="2014-12-19T13:57:14.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because somebody there likes raisins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T13:57:14.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13433" CreationDate="2014-12-19T14:38:57.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry malt extract, when not completely sealed air-tight, will start sucking moisture out of the air, and the resulting block of DME takes quite a bit of hammering pulverize. Or, you could slowly boil it and stir the crap outta it to get the chunks to dissolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your malt extract is probably fine, so long as you don't see any funky molds growing on it. However, replacing it wouldn't be that expensive, so its up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T14:38:57.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13431" CreationDate="2014-12-19T18:33:02.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the taster was taken pre-ferment you might be shocked.  I always find wort to be very bitter and never an indicator of the final beers true bitterness.  When the yeast and trub settle post fermentation a good amount of bitterness goes with it and settles out bound to yeast and proteins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even beer that is still in fermentation will seem more bitter than the final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wait and see...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T18:33:02.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13435" CreationDate="2014-12-19T20:28:00.723" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is true in ginger-beer making, but in mead-making, raisins are sometimes added to supply nutrients for the yeast.  The all honey and water mixture which is the mead starting point cannot host a very healthy yeast colony without the trace minerals supplied by the raisins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it is the same for ginger beer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW.  If you can get your South African supplier to share, please post their ginger beer recipe (as part of your question, or as a comment on your question, or even as a comment on my answer).  I am sure that I am not the only person here who would be interested in seeing how things are done there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T20:28:00.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13428" CreationDate="2014-12-20T02:11:30.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Q:What does it taste like right now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my circle (wine/beer/cider), we talk casually about a &quot;gravity of 50&quot; or &quot;press it at 20&quot;, meaning an SG of 1.050 or 1.020.  As a scientist, an SG of 150 literally means a liquid 12x the density of mercury. An SG of 1.150 is something I have encountered occasionally, with late-harvest grapes. In cider making, Quebec producers create an &quot;ice cider&quot;, which might have a starting SG of 1.150 if they cheat and add concentrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Tobias observed that you likely have a current SG of 1.050.  That is a typical &lt;em&gt;starting&lt;/em&gt; SG for unfermented apple juice. So either you are wondering about bottling &quot;soft&quot; cider and are worried if it will keep, or you added yeast a while back and nothing happened (store-bought juice preserved with sorbate/SO2), or your &quot;150&quot; means something else again. Maybe 1.005?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a cider-making year in mid-December, I would be happy to have large amounts of cider at an SG of 1.005. That would have a nice residual sugar of 2% to 3%. I would put some in a keg, fizz it with CO2, and serve it over Xmas/NewYears pretending it is Champagne.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting back to serious hard-cider bottling: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are trying to produce a hard, dry, bottle-conditioned sparkling cider then you either need to &quot;catch it on the way down&quot; and bottle it at 1.000 to 1.005, or ferment it to dryness (0.996-ish) then add fresh strong yeast (such as EC-1118) and glucose at bottling (that's what I do). If you simply bottle it at 1.005, be prepared to wait through a warm summer for fermentation to start up again and finish the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't sure what to do, make sure you have added some SO2 (aka Sulphite), keep it well topped-up, and wait until June to see what happens. Never bottle out of uncertainty!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9586" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T02:11:30.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-20T20:03:35.083" Score="5" ViewCount="8979" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Papazian's Joy of Homebrewing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the US temporary hardness is determined by a measure of bicarbonates [2(HCO3)].The hardness that bicarbonate ions contribute is temporary because it is easily precipitated (becomes solid) and is removed when water is boiled or treated with certain acids. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My water has a very obnoxious level of bicarbonates (349 ppm, according to the analysis from Ward laboratories). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long will I have to boil water to remove it of all bicarbonates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T05:14:42.477" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T19:29:19.593" Title="How long must water be boiled to remove temporary hardness (bicarbonates)" Tags="|all-grain|water|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-20T23:36:52.713" Score="8" ViewCount="2672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finished Papazian's book The Complete Joy of Homebrewing last weekend and learned that a vigorous boil is necessary to isomerize the alpha and beta acids in hops which makes these bittering acids soluble in water-- both the boiling temperature and the physical action of the boil are mechanism by which the hop acids under go isomerisation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also learned on this stackexchange that Dimethylsulphide is boiled off during the boiling period. Leaving a lid on the pot or a lid partially on the pot to help boiling will ultimately lead to some of the DMS condensing on the lid and falling back into the solution, leaving off flavors behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I'm starting my first all grain today and my stove just doesn't have the capacity to boil 6.5 gallons of wort beyond the most pathetic boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads me to ask -- which is worse, boiling with a lid partially covering the pot, therefore increasing the vigor of the boil (substantially), but also increasing the DMS in solution, or boiling with a very weak boil? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T17:30:40.577" Title="Which is worse: a weak boil or boiling with a lid partially on?" Tags="|all-grain|boil|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13443" CreationDate="2014-12-21T02:02:58.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can compensate for a weak boil by boiling longer. The 'standard' boil is usually 60 minutes, many experienced brewers say 90 is better for removing DMS. I'd say plan on a two hour boil and keep boiling till you get down to the volume you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW The hop acids will isomerize pretty well despite a weak boil. I have heard that (don't quote me here) most isomerization happens in about 20 minutes, and that 180F/80C is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T02:02:58.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13446" CreationDate="2014-12-21T18:38:16.557" Score="1" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in an apartment with a tiny fridge and I cannot afford to use all the space for beer bottles. The average daily high temperature in the region is 6 deg C (42F) while the lows drop down to 1C (33F) with the occasional shower. My beer brewing guide recommends a temperature precisely in that range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be a terrible idea to cold condition my beer in my balcony provided I make sure to keep it completely dry (sealed in an airtight bag)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8468" LastEditorUserId="8468" LastEditDate="2014-12-22T15:42:56.467" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T15:42:56.467" Title="Can I cold condition outdoors?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|first-time-brewer|conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13445" CreationDate="2014-12-22T01:57:41.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep. Just keep it away from sun light. I do this all winter without problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6858" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T01:57:41.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13454" CreationDate="2014-12-22T13:00:46.603" Score="0" ViewCount="8164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tasted the beer when it came out of the fermenter and it was great. I cooled it to 4 degrees then I racked it into the keg and force carbonated - about 1 minute at 300kPa, a good few minutes of vigorous shaking later it dropped to 140kPa so left it for an hour. I then tapped the keg and it was all foam - very overcarbonated... my regulator is a bit dodgy so will go for less CO2 next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, when I tried the beer after the foam settled the flavour was completely different - very astringent, almost plastic-like, flavour. This is the first time I've use the lines and the CO2 cannister.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could the off-flavour be caused by? Could it be bad gas? Or bad lines (heat-resistant PVC, only about 30cm long)? Would chlorine in the water be doing something bad with the CO2? Or just the fact that it's over-carbonated so there's excess carbonic acid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there any way to resolve the situation? I guess just periodically release the CO2 from the head space to solve the over-carbonation issue, but is that also likely to resolve the flavour issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8501" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T19:31:58.167" Title="Off-flavour after carbonation" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|off-flavor|force-carbonation|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2014-12-22T15:27:04.197" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To minimize foaming:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;consider a lower pressure, 140kpa is on the high end of the range: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep the keg as cold as possible when serving&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep the lines cold too - it'll foam until the beer cool them off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set up the CO2 at a lower pressure for a slow pour when serving, cold beer won't lose its gas too quickly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T15:27:04.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13451" CreationDate="2014-12-22T16:07:58.797" Score="3" ViewCount="1122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 200 litres of cider which was racked yesterday into 2 x 100 litre oak barrels. Before racking, the cider was still fermenting at a rate of about one bubble (through the airlock) per two minutes. This was due to cool weather here since October and the recent addition of a heater to the brewing room about a week ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both barrels have been stoppered with a cork bung with &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt; airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me if this is safe? Will the CO2 be able to escape through the barrel without an airlock at this rate? Likely to be pretty vigorous at first due to the air mixed in while racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also any thoughts on the taste - will the oak taste be way too strong if I leave it maturing until say, April?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9589" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T20:45:06.490" Title="Does cider in oak barrel need airlock during secondary fermentation, for the gas to escape?" Tags="|cider|secondary-fermentation|oak|barrel|barrels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-22T17:13:19.087" Score="3" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best temperature to stop the pump in an immersion whirlpool chiller ? And what about the time to wait the trub settling vs wort temperature ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider both Ale and Lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T18:48:15.967" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T17:41:11.800" Title="When to stop the whirlpool pump in an immersion whirlpool chiller?" Tags="|chilling|wort-chiller|trub|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13449" CreationDate="2014-12-22T20:45:06.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You absolutely should have an airlock on your barrel. This allows fermentation to continue (fermentation halts under enough pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to check the taste every month at minimum to see if it's too oaky. New barrels (barrels not previously used for whiskey or wine or anything) will impart much more oak flavor into your brew, so make sure you check the flavor often. You can easily sanitize a wine-thief or turkey baster and pull samples from the barrel to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your aging is concluded, transfer to keg or bottle to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T20:45:06.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-23T11:24:33.297" Score="1" ViewCount="1410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a batch of ginger beer OG 1072 FG 1027. (Crabbies by the way has a FG of 1033) I primed the bottles with a 1/3 tsp and everything was fine. The last bottles 2 months later were pretty fizzy though, not surprisingly. Now I've made another batch OG 1060 FG .995, had to sweeten it up with sugar syrup to about 1027 to make it taste like it should. There's no further fermentation but should I bother priming this time? I've been brewing for nearly 30 years so I know its not ideal to bottle with high gravity but will it still need priming. Logic says no, but I'd still like some opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9591" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2014-12-30T00:51:21.970" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T00:51:21.970" Title="Should I prime bottles of ginger beer as finishing gravity 1027" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13452" CreationDate="2014-12-23T14:57:50.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even without additional sugar, I'd be worried about bottle bombs from sweetening by 30 points just before bottling. Actually, I'd consider it a near-certainty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crabbies probably has a post-fermentation FG of .99, not 1.033. Then they filter and pasteurize it to kill the yeast, and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; they sweeten it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For people doing bottle conditioning, there's a few ways to get sweet beers/ciders, in varying degrees of mad science. The easiest is to sweeten with a nonfermentable, like lactose or xylitol. A trickier way is to get the alcohol and sugar levels just right so that the yeast stop working at the same time they reach the appropriate carbonation level. (This can lead to strong solventy or hot-alcohol flavor.) The mad scientist-iest is to bottle sweet, wait for them to condition (prying off caps and recapping to check how far things have progressed), then boil the bottles to stop fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a fan of the first method, because I find exploding glass frightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7961" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T14:57:50.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2014-12-23T15:18:33.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbonation can have a dramatic effect on beer flavor. I suspect your beer is overcarbonated and that's the cause of the off flavor. You can reduce the carbonation by allowing the keg to warm up to room temperature and periodically venting the keg as the CO2 comes out of solution. As suggested by @Pepi, use this chart to determine what you should set your regulator to: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you suspect the beer lines might be to blame, you can depressurize the keg, open the top, and dip some beer out with a sanitized ladle or something. That will allow you to taste the carbonated beer before it comes into contact with the beer line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, there are examples out there where people conclude that &quot;bad gas&quot; was making their beer taste funny. E.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/could-bad-taste-co2-247914/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/could-bad-taste-co2-247914/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T15:18:33.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2014-12-23T16:08:34.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's quite possible you're just tasting the dregs from fermentation. A little bit tends to come through, even with careful racking, and it'll precipitate to the bottom of the keg. It compacts well, so it's not really a problem, but the first pint out of a keg will suck up the dregs from around the end of the dip tube, giving a cloudy appearance and a yeasty or phenolic taste. (I don't know if I'd describe it as &quot;astringent&quot;, but who knows.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7961" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T16:08:34.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-23T20:22:34.143" Score="0" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing for a while, and have a routine I go through, part of which includes using very hot water (185+) to sanitize my new caps.  On the advice of another brewer, I tried One step on the caps to avoid the slightly metallic taste boiled caps can occasionally impart.  I bottled five gallons of my favorite mocha porter two weeks ago, (without rinsing the caps) and opened one of them last night.  Not only was it flat (very unusual for this recipe) but it had a weird astringent, almost salty flavor.  I tried another bottle from another case, and same thing.  Six bottles later, I have come to the conclusion that not only is it dead, it tastes like crap.  Literally the only change was the sanitizer on the caps.  Anyone have any input?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9593" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T21:10:53.450" Title="Did One Step kill my batch?" Tags="|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13456" CreationDate="2014-12-23T21:10:53.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't think of any way One Step could have caused that.  I have used it and similar products many times without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T21:10:53.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13443" CreationDate="2014-12-23T22:16:49.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, people either do extract/partial boil/late addition or smaller batches if they are using a stove top. For a full boil, you pretty much need to use a stand alone burner or some other system that produces a good rolling boil. Commercial brewers use techniques like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brewing#Brew_kettle_or_copper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calandria&lt;/a&gt; to reduce DMS while &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/light-ale/item/2816-better-boils-adding-body-mr-wizard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;boiling off only 4%&lt;/a&gt;, but a stand alone burner is more economical for home brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I think Pepi's answer is correct in that a longer boil time will yield the same volume and DMS reduction. Whether or not you'd get proper hop utilization I'm not so sure about. At my altitude, where 200F is the boiling point, I only get 81% utilization with a rolling boil. I would imagine if you were at sea level, then you'd probably be able to get decent utilization with a low boil, but I have no idea how you'd measure it or factor for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other alternative is to boil two batches. It would be more complicated, but provided your burners and kettles were equivalent, you would be able to just split any additions, and boil the two side by side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2017-08-16T17:30:40.577" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T17:30:40.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13460" CreationDate="2014-12-24T01:09:02.103" Score="3" ViewCount="3664" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have black and grey couplers, one says &quot;in&quot; and the other says &quot;out&quot;, but they look exactly the same to me... Does it matter if I use them indiscriminately for gas in/beer out lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8501" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T18:36:45.947" Title="Corny kegs: Is there a difference between the in coupler and the out coupler?" Tags="|kegging|corny-keg|kegs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13459" CreationDate="2014-12-24T01:40:50.107" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are slightly differently sized. In particular, the grey gas fitting &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; fit over the &quot;out&quot; post, but the black liquid fitting &lt;em&gt;will not&lt;/em&gt; fit over the &quot;in&quot; post without significant pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, yes you should treat them as the separate things they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T01:40:50.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13443" CreationDate="2014-12-24T13:08:23.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A function of boiling rate is the amount of surface area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some really large surface-area pots (tuna-can shaped). A trick I do to increase the boil rate without increasing heat is float a stainless steel bowl or pot on top to decrease surface area. I maybe reduce surface area 25-35%. If it is a case where you are borderline this trick may bump you over the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also reduces evaporation rate with the reduced surface area so you may end up boiling longer anyway. I just compensate for the lowered evaporation rate with my initial volume of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9595" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T13:08:23.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6755" CreationDate="2014-12-24T20:47:53.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;bottle from a force carbonated keg, do it slow to reduce any foam in the bottle, make sure the keg is as cold as you can get it, also chill the bottles as well if your using glass, after the bottle is full cap right away, don't do more then one at a time or you will start losing co2, its time consuming and you need a keg system, but you can get carbonated bottles without sediment this way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9598" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T20:47:53.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-25T04:45:19.063" Score="2" ViewCount="2380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble searching for the correct water profile to be used for a Bavarian hefeweizen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the book Designing Great Beers by Ray Daniels, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Munich -- or more properly, Bavaria -- ... has the most cohesive history of weisse beer brewing of any area in Germany.&#xA;  (pg 339)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oddly, the author doesn't include any water profile in his wheat beer section, even though he does so for the other styles as far as I can tell (I haven't finished it yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In his Bock section, he includes the water profile of Munich's water:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calcium - 75ppm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magnesium - 18&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sodium - 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbonate - 180&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sulfate - 120&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it appropriate for me to conclude that Munich's/Bavaria's water is that which I should use to make a bavarian hefeweizen?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, the author states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Shifts] in zymo-demographics in Europe, along with the craft beer revolution in America, have shaped a wheat beer landscape that is quite different in the late twentieth century than it was even ten years earlier. (pg. 343)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find the page right now, but he also states that back in the old days, wheat beers in Germany were made with only 1/3 wheat and 2/3 barely, which is nearly the opposite today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this have any effect on the water profile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-01-04T17:08:44.143" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T18:16:18.347" Title="Should the Munich Water Profile be used for Bavarian Hefeweizens?" Tags="|all-grain|water|hefeweizen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-25T04:55:37.097" Score="1" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is just a question about terminology.  Those who are into brewing and beer making are zymurgists.  Those who are aficionados of wine are oenologists.  But what does one call a expert in distilling spirits ... an whiskey/bourbon/scotch spirits in particular?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there different terms for those who are masters at crafting these (stillmasters?) vs. those who have the expertise for judging and describing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious ... but I'd also like to know soon since I'm going to an annual scotch tasting party in my area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9600" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T16:08:33.680" Title="Zymurgy, Oenology ... but what about spirits? What's the &quot;ten penny&quot; word for still masters?" Tags="|whiskey|bourbon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13441" CreationDate="2014-12-26T01:18:46.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Water: A comprehensive Guide for Brewers by  John Palmer and Colin Kaminski:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calcium carbonate that has precipitated [from boiling] exists as micro-crystals in suspension, which will eventually grow heavy enough to settle out. According to historical brewing texts such as Syke's, the water would typically be boiled for a half hour to allow the CO2 to be well scrubbed by the steam, and would then be allowed to settle overnight, leaving a white layer of precipitate on the bottom of the kettle. The reduced-alkalinity water would then be decanted off the sediment for use as brewing liquor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that while our goal here is to remove bicarbonate(alkalinity), we are simultaneously removing calcium, which is not necessarily desirable. Therefore brewers who decarbonate their water this way often replace the lost calcium by additions of calcium chloride and/or calcium sulfate. It helps if this is done before decarbonation as the extra calcium aids in the decarbonation process, again according to LeChatelier's Principal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if the water is not allowed to cool or the precipitate to settle? .... So heating of brewing water to strike temperature may result in a small reduction in alkalinity and hardness. Vigorous stirring or aeration can help the CO2 to evolve and increase the precipitation. The result is that some small proportion of the initial alkalinity would likely precipitate, byt still be suspended in the hot liquor when it is added to the mash. What is the effect of the suspended precipitate in the water being added directly to the mash? That is a good question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reducing alkalinity with slaked lime (calcium hydroxide) is very similar to the boiling method, but slaked lime adds more calcium and raises pH, achieving lower levels of alkalinity than boiling alone. ... Water with [249 ppm CaCO3] can be reduced to [21ppm].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[pg 103-108]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, calcium ions reacts with bicarbonate to precipitate calcium carbonate in boiling water. Not only should water be boiled for 30 minutes, but the kettle needs to remain over night to allow the precipitate to settle-- Decanting wouldn't do much of anything immediately after boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could look into CaOH, but I'm just going to buy a RO system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T01:32:48.887" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-26T01:48:23.150" Score="1" ViewCount="1376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to go from the primary fermentation to the bottles with an open fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I top off with water to get the full 5 gallons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also would you primary an open fermentation for more than a week, and not secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a double ipa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9606" LastEditorUserId="9606" LastEditDate="2014-12-26T03:25:13.010" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T17:04:41.847" Title="how long can I stay in an open primary fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|all-grain|open-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-26T16:51:37.850" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a guide for when &amp;amp; how to add specific ingredients to the fermentation process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I want honey, lemon, ginger, banana, raspberry, etc. - when's the best time to add that ingredient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9607" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T17:31:44.890" Title="How does the fermentation schedule look when adding flavor elements?" Tags="|fermentation|ingredients|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13466" CreationDate="2014-12-26T18:08:11.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's basically no need to do a &quot;secondary&quot; fermentation. Time in secondary is just as good as time in primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go straight from primary to bottling if you like, so long as fermentation has actually finished.  Once the krausen falls further, and you get the same gravity readings over the course of 2-3 days, you can bottle straight away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if your glass carboy really did break, I would be very worried about glass shards in the batch, which are going to be nearly impossible to detect and remove.  I'd dump the batch, just to be safe, and obviously toss the carboy.  As well, I'm not sure how you're going to safely lift the broken carboy in order to siphon into the bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, I would cover the top of the fermentor with aluminum foil to prevent anything from falling into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T18:08:11.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13441" CreationDate="2014-12-26T22:48:24.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a different opinion in Brewing Classic Styles (incidentally, also by John Palmer??):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a procedure to remove some of the alkalinity from the water:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add 1 teaspoon of calcium carbonate to 3 to 5 gallons of brewing water, and stir. This will create precipitation nucleation and growth sites, i.e., seed crystals, and help some of the alkalinity precipitate out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil for 10 minutes and allow to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pour the decarbonated water off the chalk sediment into another pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This states that boiling is only necessary for 10 minutes, not 30 as in the Water book (perhaps due to the addition of CaCO3, although that was mentioned in the Water book somewhere else); this also indicates that allowing the kettle to cool is all the waiting time necessary, not &amp;quot;overnight&amp;quot; as in the water book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why two books by Palmer indicate different procedures. Perhaps it was because these books were actually written by 2 authors each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T22:48:24.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-28T07:02:29.103" Score="3" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are currently using a pump to circulate the mash through a coil in the heated sparge water, this works well and reaches mash out in under 20 min. The only worry is with the water in the sparge being around 90 c will that have an effect on the top half of the mash grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once 78 c is reached in the mash we cool the sparge water and sparge as per normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any other equipment ideas such as a regulated temp coil.         &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9611" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T22:42:52.493" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T14:13:51.753" Title="Equipment for Raising Mashout temp" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13464" CreationDate="2014-12-29T15:14:24.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was unable to find a word for the &quot;study of distillation&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, to be clear, &quot;zymurgy&quot; is the study of fermentation, not necessarily beermaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8330" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T15:14:24.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13464" CreationDate="2014-12-29T16:08:33.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the term &quot;distiller&quot; fits the bill for what you are describing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zymurgy (also called Zymology) applies to the scientific, technical, or academic study of fermentation (and some would include distilling), and not necessarily to the making of alcoholic beverages. However, many homebrewers self-style themselves as &quot;zymurgists&quot;. Furthermore, the well-known academic programs in brewing and distilling use much more mundane words to described their programs (for example, to paraphrase, &quot;the study of malting, brewing and fermentation&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other terms that apply to your question are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wine maker = &quot;vintner&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wine afficionado = &quot;oenophile&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Beer maker = &quot;brewer&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Beer lover = &quot;cerevisaphile&quot; (although that term is a neologism, and not in common currency) or &quot;beer lover&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T16:08:33.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13468" CreationDate="2014-12-29T16:21:01.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not aware of such a guide, and I believe I would know if an authoritative guide existed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opinions vary on each of these items, as it is a matter of what sort of aroma, flavor, or effect you are looking to achieve with any addition, as well as personal taste. For example, honey may be added to add sugar or for its flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Randy Mosher is a noted expert on adding spices, fruits, and other adjuncts to beer, and he has published a book called &quot;Radical Brewing&quot; that contains many useful tables. He also has published numerous articles on related beer additions, many of which are legally published for free online. Other sources, such as Brew Your Own magazine, have published numerous guides and spreadsheets over the years covering portions of the universe of beer additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I recommend searching for the particular item you wish to add, and then posting a question if that question has not been answered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T16:21:01.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13468" CreationDate="2014-12-29T17:31:44.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, the more character you want from your additions, the later you should add them.  For the things listed in the OP, I would wait til fermentation has finished, then rack to secondary and add the fruits/spices there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T17:31:44.890" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13481" CreationDate="2014-12-30T07:04:53.427" Score="2" ViewCount="1620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question regarding the conversion from Plato degrees to specific gravity, and the widely used value of 46ppg for sugar dissolved in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to wikipedia, plato degrees are defined by the relative amount of sugar by mass (and not volume). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequently, 1 pound of sugar (0.453 kg) in 1 gallon (3.785 liters) gives 0.453/(3.785*0.998+0.453)=10.71% sugar in mass, taking a density of water of 0.998 kg/liter at 20°C. So this would be 10.71 Plato degree. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, formulas or tables for conversion between Plato degrees and specific gravity give 11.5% sugar for a specific gravity of 1.046. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that there is something I haven't taken into account, but what? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9616" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T12:07:25.693" Title="Plato degree to specific gravity conversion question" Tags="|specific-gravity|calculations|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13489" CreationDate="2014-12-30T14:29:01.167" Score="1" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very interested in ferment in corny-kegs after &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9352/how-can-i-ferment-in-a-corny-keg-under-constant-pressure/9361#9361&quot;&gt;reading&lt;/a&gt; some &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9750/what-are-the-benefits-of-fermenting-under-pressure&quot;&gt;questions&lt;/a&gt; about &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1287/corny-keg-fermentors&quot;&gt;that&lt;/a&gt; here on this stackexchange. I will try it next batch, but there is a question about aeration/no chilling method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I aerate my wort by splashing it when transfering from my no chill vessels to my fermentors, so I understand that I am mixing my wort to the air and all the microorganisms around when I'm doing that. Before splash I put my yeast in the bottom of the fermentor and the same movement mix them to wort to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I want to No Chill and ferment in the same kegs. Is it possible? How to properly aerate the wort doing this way?&#xA;I know that I can simple shake the kegs to aerate them, but these kegs don't seal if they're not pressurized. So it will be a big mess to clean if I need to do that way. And a O2 tank is not a possibility for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I want to know if I can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Fill the kegs and seal them with CO2 to No Chill;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Pitch my yeast directly in these cornys after chilled, put some CO2 to seal it, shake it to mix the yeast to the wort;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Remove the gas in post to hook a hose as a blowoff tube, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/connect/2010/03/how-to-make-a-bicycle-pump-keg-dispensor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plug a bicycle pump&lt;/a&gt; in my liquid-out disconnect to aerate the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This protocol seems good? There is a better/safer way to do that? It will be better if I use the same HDPE vessels for no chill and splash it to the cornys? A bike pump is better/worse than a aquarium air pump or should I expect similar results?&#xA;I've been reading a post about aeration and &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2690/wort-aeration-on-a-budget/2736#2736&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; caught my attention. Could I get some good If I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://suggar.com.br/imagens/produtos/zoom/port_mixer1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kitchen mixer&lt;/a&gt; to mix the yeast and aerate the wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot again. Sorry if it seems to much questions inside just one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T20:16:51.773" Title="Aerating no chill corny keg fermentors that don't seal" Tags="|fermentation|corny-keg|aeration|no-chill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7782" CreationDate="2014-12-30T19:46:30.907" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are a manufacturer of all natural non-fermenting sugar substitutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are finding that two of our sweeteners, Steviva Blend and blend of erythritol and stevia and XeroSweet ab blend of xylitol and stevia are being use quite successfully on back sweeting wine, beers and specifically ciders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We would be happy to send you both of these products free. We only ask that you let us know what the results were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have an excellent day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9619" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T19:46:30.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13478" CreationDate="2014-12-30T20:25:13.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to look up where you got the 1.046 value from. It seems it's common knowledge that &amp;quot;one pound of sugar dissolved in one gallon of water&amp;quot; yields a solution with a specific gravity of 1.046. However, that's not exactly correct. It is one gallon of a solution of one pound of sugar in water that has a SG of 1.046.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distinction is that the mass of &amp;quot;one pound of sugar dissolved in one gallon of water&amp;quot; is the sum of the mass of one pound of sugar (0.453 kg) and the mass of one gallon of water (3.785 * 0.998) while the mass of &amp;quot;one gallon of a solution of one pound of sugar in water&amp;quot; is the sum of the mass of one pound of sugar (0.453 kg) plus the mass of however much water is required to reach a total volume of one gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put it another way, in the first case you're pouring one pound of sugar and one gallon of water into a container. In the second case, you're pouring one pound of sugar into a one-gallon container and then topping up with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem is that since you're working with pure sugar and water, you should actually be referencing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brix&lt;/a&gt; values. Brix and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer_measurement#Strength&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plato&lt;/a&gt; don't match up exactly, though I can't explain the difference between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia phrases it succinctly as, &amp;quot;One degree Brix is 1 gram of sucrose in 100 grams of solution.&amp;quot; Assuming one milliliter of water has a mass of one gram, then a total mass of 100 grams would mean the sugar was added to only 99 ml of water. So, to use your formula above, 1 / (99 * 0.998 + 1) = 1.00% Brix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working backward with your formula from a 1.046 SG (11.4% Brix), we can calculate the amount of water you would need to add to one pound of sugar to get one gallon of solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;0.453 / (V * 0.998 + 0.453) = 0.114&#xA;0.453 = 0.114 * (V * 0.998 + 0.453)&#xA;0.453 / 0.114 = V * 0.998 + 0.453&#xA;0.453 / 0.114 - 0.453 = V * 0.998&#xA;(0.453 / 0.114 - 0.453) / 0.998 = V&#xA;3.52773969 = V&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you'd need to add one pound of sugar to 3.53 liters (0.93 gal) of water to get one gallon of solution at 1.046 SG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry I can't link to a definitive reference. This is what I've cobbled together from various sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T20:25:13.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13479" CreationDate="2014-12-31T02:18:53.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you could skip the CO2 &amp;amp; shaking in step 2:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The bike pump should be able to make more than enough pressure to seat the seals, especially if they are well lubricated. The only question is whether air will go in fast enough. So maybe use a mountain bike pump, not not a road bike pump.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The bubbles from the pump will do a more than adequate job of mixing the wort and yeast, so no need to shake.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you aerate, filter the air!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T02:18:53.660" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2893" CreationDate="2014-12-31T02:25:44.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used dry ice in a sink with a sanitized stainless pot, same size as my wort. Dumped the boil in the super chilled pot in the dry ice. It chilled in under seven minutes. Be careful. Dry ice will burn exposed skin frostbite style. Any liquid contacting dry ice causes a reaction (theatrical fog). First time I ever got clear beer. NOTE: USE CRUSHED ICE IN SINK with MINIMAL AMOUNT OF WATER if dry ice is unavailable. Secret is; DO NOT TRY CHILLING YOUR HOT POT OF HOT INGREDIENTS , DUMP YOUR HOT INGREDIENTS INTO AN ALREADY CHILLED POT TO CHILL THE INGREDIENTS! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9623" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T02:25:44.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2014-12-31T05:31:19.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran out of bottles and threw some of the last beer into a Poland spring bottle with a screw cap. It blew up like a bomb and became highly pressurized. I did it more for an experiment to find a secondary fermentation potential. I added priming sugar and maple syrup to the full batch and for this experiment I added a lot more extra maple syrup,  maybe table spoon for about one beers worth, so it explains the high pressure bottle bomb. I degassed it and tasted a drop. It's amazing. I feel as though I need to pour it down the drain. I wonder if it is safe to do a natural carbonation in a plastic bottle like that. Any input would be appreciated. The main batch is all in glass bottles but this plastic test bottle came out incredible.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9626" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T05:31:19.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2893" CreationDate="2014-12-31T05:52:46.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical beer recipe instructions are as you mentioned in comments&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 week primary &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 week secondary &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 weeks in a bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These instructions will work fine and make beer, but they won't necessarily make the best (or clearest) beer. Some suppliers have adjusted their recipes to the beer style, adding more time to the instructions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, 1 week is not long enough for a beer to finish, but the secondary racking will kind of kick it along, though the use of secondary is questioned by some (myself included - I never secondary unless I have another reason to, like racking onto fruit or because I want a cleaner container), but the added time is helpful (whether you moved it or not). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most beers finish fermentation within 7-10 days with temperature control, but this can vary widely depending on the yeast and temperature. However, even after fermentation is finished, &lt;strong&gt;most ales will benefit from at least some bulk aging at ale temps&lt;/strong&gt;; improving the flavor. After that, cold crashing or lagering will help clear a beer (letting the ale sit at cooler temps - the cooler the better). Ales aren't wine, so we aren't talking months, although the stronger the ale, the more time it may take. &lt;strong&gt;Giving an extra week or two in the primary, and another week or two at fridge temps can have a significant positive impact on the flavor and clarity of an ale&lt;/strong&gt;. Lagers benefit from much longer aging, especially at lager temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use fining agents, but time is also effective, though it may take longer. Most fining agents take a couple of weeks, which is a good aging period after fermentation is complete anyway, so you really can't go wrong with them. You'll probably find adding a 2 week period without a fining agent will also get you very clear beer, but that will depend on the recipe and method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aging will typically not benefit the clarity of a wheat beer, as the haze remains in suspension for longer periods (forever?). There is such a thing as kristallweizen, but that normally takes filtration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T05:52:46.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-01T13:41:25.553" Score="2" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed up a batch of wort yesterday and it all went well. Good sanitation, quick cool down, and yeast activated. Set up the carboy in a controlled temp room (74) and fermentation started within 4 hours and really took off. All good. Took the wife out for dinner and a movie - when I got home found the airlock and stopper had shot out of the carboy. Consulted this site and hooked up a blow off tube. Everything is going OK now - still bubbling away like mad. I don't know how long the wort was exposed. There was and continues to be a thick head of Krausen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the exposure mean my wort is ruined? How can I tell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice will be helpful...thanks...Let me know (I'll be painting the ceiling)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9629" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T17:07:18.727" Title="Airlock and Stopper Rocket" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13487" CreationDate="2015-01-01T17:07:18.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The beer should be fine. With the yeast active like it is, bacteria and wild yeast would have a very hard time establishing a foothold. Brief exposure to the atmosphere should not affect your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T17:07:18.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13479" CreationDate="2015-01-01T20:16:51.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just realized that after fermentation is done, I will need at least an extra keg to transfer my beer out of the fermentors, anyway. My batches are of 3 kegs. So I will need to take an 4º keg to transfer the first. After that, I could just drain and clean the emptys one by one and do the other transfers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I've done was to fill the 3 kegs with boiling wort and wait a day 'no chilling'. Clean and sanitize another keg, put the yeast in it and then transfer with a reasonable pressure. That way I could mix the yeast and aerate the wort without needing to use the HDPE vessels again, or buying anything else. Easy and safe. Thanks everyone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T20:16:51.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13288" CreationDate="2015-01-01T21:41:44.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/08/12/sour-off-flavors-in-home-brewed-beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/08/12/sour-off-flavors-in-home-brewed-beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Acetobacter produces acetic acid instead of lactic acid. Acetic acid is the major component in vinegar so it if you have a strong vinegar flavor in your beer it is very likely due to Acetobacter. Interestingly, acetobacter requires both the bacterial infection to occur and also requires oxygen to grow. So in addition to having poor sanitation, you would need to have oxygen present in the beer, either by infecting the wort before fermentation has taken place or by aerating the beer during fermentation or transfer. So if you get a vinegar tasting beer, you need to check both your sanitation procedures and also be careful not to add air to your beer once fermentation has started.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9631" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T21:41:44.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13493" CreationDate="2015-01-02T02:20:53.520" Score="0" ViewCount="1370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing my first batch with a yeast starter. I harvested yeast from a commercial  Belgian trappist ale, built it up for a couple of days, cold-crashed it, decanted off the majority of the mini-wort and am getting ready to pitch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, I'm realizing that the size of my starter isn't what I was hoping for. I'm wanting to do a bigger beer than this meager amount of yeast will get rolling. So, I'm about to throw caution into the wind and follow up my trappist yeast starter with a boring old Safbrew T-58 dry yeast package, perhaps perhaps 3/4 of the package. Going to sacrifice the possible trappist yeast strain flavor for a stronger beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this probably higher amount of yeast will speed up fermentation (yes, using a blow-off tube). What I'm worried most about is getting too much autolysis (or some other symptom I don't yet know the name for). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can I do to mitigate the effects of pitching too much yeast?&lt;/strong&gt; I was thinking about moving up my racking schedule, but I'm not sure that'll do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9632" LastEditorUserId="9632" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T02:39:15.960" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T04:46:40.677" Title="Over-pitched yeast- how to avoid autolysis?" Tags="|yeast|pitching|autolysis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13491" CreationDate="2015-01-02T04:05:11.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's common for 'big' beer recipes to call for 2 bottle of white labs yeast (in a starter), so depending on how big your starter is you might be fine. I find that about 100-150ml of an active (foams when shaken) starter will work great for 20L batch in the 1.050-1.060 range.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I don't think that over pitching isn't such a bad thing. People sometimes put fresh on a the yeast of the previous batch, and AFAIK thats works well if the yeast is clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think that an extra 7.5 grams of dry yeast is not going to be an overpitch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe somebody else can comment on the flavor of T58 vs. the bottle dregs you're using? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T04:05:11.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13491" CreationDate="2015-01-02T04:46:40.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Autolysis in homebrew is largely a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/secondary-not-john-palmer-jamil-zainasheff-weigh-176837/&quot;&gt;myth&lt;/a&gt;. The reason being that a five gallon batch in a carboy or bucket doesn't have the weight or geometry to compress the the yeast the way a 100 gallon or more conical can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, you can still get off or wrong flavors from pitching too much yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When harvesting yeast, it typically takes time and several step ups to get to a viable amount to pitch. It is unlikely that pitching a &quot;couple of days&quot; of a harvest plus one packet of dry yeast will be &quot;over-pitching&quot;, but that is dependent on the starting gravity. 1.055 is about right for one 11 gram packet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;T-58 is 10 grams, and if you didn't re-hydrate, you might lose 25-30%, so adding the harvest might actually be what you should be aiming to hit, but again, can't really comment without the starting gravity and whether or not you re-hydrated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have not yet pitched the second yeast, I'd give the first yeast a day or two to see if it takes off. If you had at least some growth in your harvested starter, then it will likely take off and do fine. Under pitching on a Belgian shouldn't hurt too much, but will add some fruity esters, which can be mitigated with lower temps and time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;T58 is a solid yeast and will work if the harvest doesn't take off. Pitching both probably won't matter much but the T58 will likely dominate. It's hard to make an accurate statement without knowing the gravity and quantity from the harvest. You can check pitching rates at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot;&gt;mr malty&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T04:46:40.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13288" CreationDate="2015-01-02T04:55:16.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had two beers in about 100 sour on me (that weren't intended; I've also done several intentionally soured beers). It's a bummer, but not something I would throw out. Especially if it's a lemon-vinegar sour; it can be refreshing. They usually take a bit longer to bottle carbonate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean after use, sanitize before use and this shouldn't happen, but dust from milling grains, bacteria in lines and even just exposure to air can all cause this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find souring a beer intentionally frighteningly simple... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't do it, but several homebrewing allies &quot;push&quot; all their beer (rather than using autosiphons) with CO2 so they can minimize the wort/beer contact with air. I suspect this would help as well, but just practicing good sanitation should go a long way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T04:55:16.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2015-01-02T05:08:57.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you can taste bpa, but certainly microwaving food and eating it from bpa plastic will raise bpa levels in your blood stream. However, it appears that ceasing the behavior also drops the levels back down, so I'm not convinced it's a great health risk and unless you put hot wort into the jug, it shouldn't cause this effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other issue with any plastic is the permeability; they simply let more air in than glass. PET seems to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.faybutler.com/pdf_files/HowHoseMaterialsAffectGas3.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;much better&lt;/a&gt; than polycarb, but glass is 0. Having said that, I've switched over to plastic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/brewing-equipment/fermenting-equipment/big-mouth-bubbler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Big Mouth Bubblers&lt;/a&gt; for my primaries, but more for the convenience and price than anything else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T05:08:57.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2015-01-02T19:18:52.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about the alcohol in the beer?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's a solvent so might it leech chemicals from the plastic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of studies show that #1 and #2 are okay with water but has anyone studied if it is good with alcohol?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since PH and Alcohol each provide the possibility of leeching, and since cleaning and micro-cracks are an issue with plastic, personally, I will stick to glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T19:18:52.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13498" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-02T22:57:43.873" Score="5" ViewCount="1517" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a common opinion that bottle conditioning yields carbonation that is qualitatively different from what's produced by force carbonation. Typically, it is claimed that bottle conditioning produces finer/smaller bubbles, the head lasts longer, the lacing is more prominent etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, consider this, from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://thankheavenforbeer.com/2010/03/22/natural-carbonation-vs-forced-carbonation/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thank Heaven For Beer&lt;/a&gt; blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The beer carbonated ye old naturale method has a thin layer of yeast&#xA;  on the bottom.  The head is thicker and more billowy with more peaks&#xA;  and valleys, and it has longer retention with more lacing.  There are&#xA;  fewer bubbles sticking to the glass (both dishwasher cleaned) and the&#xA;  bubbles are tinier.  In the mouth, the beer feels smoother than the&#xA;  force carbonated beer, and more effervescent; perhaps more champagne&#xA;  like, though both feel as they have the same level of carbonation. &#xA;  The beer that was carbonated induces more belching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard this claim made about Champagne, which is traditionally bottle conditioned, while lower-priced bottles are force carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My education in chemistry stopped at grade 11, so I could be getting some things fundamentally wrong, but I don't understand how the process by which the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is produced could affect the quality of the carbonation. As I understand it, CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; exists in equilibrium with water (or beer), mediated by temperature and pressure. The lower the temperature and the higher the pressure, the more CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is dissolved (as carbonic acid) in the liquid. Whether the CO2 is produced by yeast consuming sugars, or supplied by a CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; tank, I can't image that the chemistry is any different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above passage, all the qualities attributed to natural conditioning could also be the result of slightly higher level of carbonation compared with the force carbonated beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any truth to these claims about bottling conditioning vs. force carbonation? Or is this an old wive's tale?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T00:24:28.370" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T02:06:05.323" Title="Does bottling conditioning change the nature of the carbonation?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13509" CreationDate="2015-01-02T23:17:06.827" Score="1" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;After doing a bit of Googling for pumps in order to circulate water through a wort chiller (it being below freezing outside in Maine, I'm worried about using our outside hose hookup for water), I saw a few people say that they'd used the Flotec FP0F360AC Utility Pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picked one up at Home Depot today for ~$85 or so, got home and discovered three unfortunate things in the manual. First, it specifically mentions that the output side shouldn't be under water, which is a problem because that was my plan. Second, the output hose is supposed to be 1/2&quot; - mine is 5/16&quot;. Most problematically, it says that the output side shouldn't have any coils in it: an obvious issue if you're using a coiled metal wort chiller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure enough, I tried it out and even after being lubricated with mineral oil, it pumped literally nothing. The input hose was solidly underwater, everything should have been fine, but no joy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions, then, are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is anyone successfully using this device? I.e. did I get a bad unit or is it because I'm using it against instructions?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming no one is and I return it, does anyone have a pump they recommend? I'm looking at this one instead:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Flotec-1-6-HP-Submersible-Utility-Pump-FP0S1300X/100178274&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Flotec-1-6-HP-Submersible-Utility-Pump-FP0S1300X/100178274&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any and all help appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9637" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T16:07:53.520" Title="Flotec Utility Pump for Wort Chilling?" Tags="|wort-chiller|pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2109" CreationDate="2015-01-02T23:46:51.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you'll actually ever see this answer but here goes. I am also allergic to malt. I don't understand where people are coming from with some of their answers as they bring gluten into the discussion. I believe malt is a separate ingredient. Aside from most beers, I also cannot drink a chocolate malt and I can't eat a couple blister packages of chocolate malted milk balls without getting waves of stomach pain. Been going on for a long time now. I have discovered though, that I can drink any of the common Corona beers, like their Corona Lite or their Extra variety. Found out by accident, and later, someone told me he heard or read that Corona doesn't contain malt. If they have a malted variety, I don't know about it. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9638" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T23:46:51.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13473" CreationDate="2015-01-03T10:25:36.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This arrangement sounds like it will always be a little slow to mov heat into the mash, but it could be improved. To start, heating transfer would be better if the mash was mixed more. Rearrange the pipes or do some manual stirring get the top of the mash to the same temp as the bottom.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have a uniform mash temp, I'd think the sparge water and mash could be made to meet in the middle, as mashout temp, in a reasonable time. If it's too slow then add more copper to the coil in the sparge tank, or pump faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T10:25:36.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2109" CreationDate="2015-01-03T16:47:40.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are allergic to gluten, then you CAN make a &quot;gluten-free&quot; beer using Clarity Ferm from White Labs. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/other-products/wln4000-clarity-ferm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.whitelabs.com/other-products/wln4000-clarity-ferm&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an enzyme that cleaves gluten proteins to reduce them to levels below 20ppm (the minimum standard to be considered &quot;gluten free&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does cleave hordein, the main allergen associated with barley, so it would stand to reason that you may be able to drink normally made all-grain homebrew using Clarity Ferm, but without knowing the exact allergen that causes you problems, I can't say for sure if you can drink it. But it's worth a try! Try adding some Clarity Ferm to a normal beer, recap it, give it some time at the proper temperature, then try drinking it to see if it works for you.  If so, cheers! You can homebrew actual beer without compromising taste!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify the &quot;malt allergy&quot; concern, you need to be more specific than that. Malt is any grain that has been sprouted to produce sugar producing enzymes. If you have allergic reactions to &quot;malt balls&quot;, these are made with dairy, barley malt, and flour, so it could very well be an allergy to gluten or dairy that causes you problems. Best to get an allergy test to determine your exact condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9569" LastEditorUserId="9569" LastEditDate="2015-01-03T16:55:01.837" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T16:55:01.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2015-01-03T17:03:23.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tangential topic- but I have found to remove trub from plastic fermenters (or any fermenter), add hot water, PBW, and invert to cover the caked on trub. Come back 5-10 mins later, and the trub is dissolved.  WOOP WOOP! Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9569" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T17:03:23.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10039" CreationDate="2015-01-03T17:33:21.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to be clear this is regarding steel or aluminium kegs... in the end they'll all fail at a high enough pressure but will they explode or will they leak first (not everything explodes)?  In mechanics terms are they a thin walled or thick walled vessel.  The thicker the wall is the stronger it could be but also longer the cracks are that can grow in it as the pressure rises (metals naturally full of tiny cracks which all start to grow as the pressure rises in the keg) and eventually one crack will reach the critical crack length when it grows very quickly, at the speed of sound in the metal, this is what leads to an explosion.  So a wise pressure vessel designer keeps the material as thin as possible (whilst being strong enough to do the job) so the crack will run from inner to outer surface before it reaches the critical crack length and start to release the pressure, in this case you'll get &quot;Leak before Burst&quot; failures.  I should have added, liquids are more of less incompressible so can't store any energy, so the more gas that's involved the more violent an explosion is likely to be as all that stored energy is released.  SO if you ever do want to test to destruction, fill the keg with as much water as possible to keep the amounts of gas to a minimum, then you can achieve the same pressures without suddenly releasing lost of energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9642" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T17:33:21.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13463" CreationDate="2015-01-04T10:45:50.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can be sure that Munich's brewers don't just turn on the tap and start making beer also you should assume it varies over time so what the water profile is on a given day, when it was measured, is less use to you than you might think.  At the very least the water was probably boiled before use which will change the chemistry significantly. Things have moved on in brewing in the past 100 years so I think we should apply a bit of that learning to your water profiles and use something like Bru'n Water spreadsheet to match the water chemistry to the beer type.  It's then interesting to see how close (or not) they match the &quot;raw&quot; water chemistry of the famous brewing city.  For example I brewed a malty stout yesterday and the water profile I ended up with is very close to London water, which historically has been famous for its porters.  In short: make sure the dog is wagging the tail, famous brewing cities have not &quot;taken advantage&quot; of particularly good water chemistry to produce a beer type they just haven't been able to brew anything else!  I'd strongly recommend the above spreadsheet and the use of Reverse Osmosis (RO) water and build up your water profiles with the various salts it uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9643" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T10:45:50.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13463" CreationDate="2015-01-04T17:47:08.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should never use a city profile to decide what water to use.  You have no idea if the profile given is still accurate or if the brewers treat the water before they use it.  It's much more accurate to use a color/flavor profile like the ones in Bru'nwater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T17:47:08.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13499" CreationDate="2015-01-04T18:19:01.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first pump you tried is probably just underpowered. The first one I tried was just a little more powerful than that one, and it barely gets the job done on my 20-foot, 3/8-inch copper wort chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one you linked to looks much more capable, but I'd be concerned about the operating temperature range. It lists a minimum operating temperature of 40F. If you drop it into a bucket of ice water, you'll be below that, of course. I don't know what effect it'd have, but it's a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/528gph-Submersible-Indoor-Outdoor-Fountain-Pump-Hydroponics-45-Watts-9-8-FT-Lift-/290802442304&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jebao 528 GPH submersible pump&lt;/a&gt;, and it has performed well enough. I was trying to go cheap. The more power the better, if you're willing to pay a little more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a good BYO article about recirculating wort chillers and how to figure out how big of a pump you need for your setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/color/item/377-build-a-recirculating-wort-chiller-projects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/color/item/377-build-a-recirculating-wort-chiller-projects&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-05T16:07:53.520" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T16:07:53.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="571" CreationDate="2015-01-04T19:17:28.830" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I'm use a plate chiller and a false bottom in my boil kettle.   I usually handle this in one of two ways.  At flame out I would add hops and let it sit for 15 mins before running it through the chiller.  Or, since the intent is mostly to add aroma I'd add to or include it in my dry hop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9647" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T13:44:23.327" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T13:44:23.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13498" CreationDate="2015-01-05T00:25:14.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the same beer properties, the surface tension should be equal between force carbonation and bottle carbonation. Assuming equal surface tension, the CO2 bubbles should be equivalent in size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With equal temperature, pressure, time, and surface tension, the CO2 bubble size should be equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8323" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T00:25:14.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13466" CreationDate="2015-01-05T02:41:43.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your mileage may vary... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was my brew, I certainly would not give up on it (yet). I would gently set it out and let it settle for a few hours, then rack to another container, being careful not to pull anything (like glass) into the second fermenter. (Leave more than normal and make sure and use the diverter on your siphon.) Then you can triage the carboy and clean up the mess. However, the reason I suggest this is to avoid losing all your beer if the carboy continues to break. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not be too concerned about an open ferment. I have fermented several beers without a lid. I tried it a few times out of curiosity more than anything, but I kind of quit the practice a year or so ago. However, I didn't quit because I thought the beer was bad, just because I didn't think I was gaining much for the risk. Having said that, I've had batches with off flavors with &quot;normal&quot; practices and none of my open fermentations ever gave me any grief. They typically fermented much faster and produced a more significant krausen, but also produced more esters, but overall, nothing unexpected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an IPA, I doubt you would notice the difference, because of the dominant hops. The hops will also help stave off bacteria. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T02:41:43.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13518" CreationDate="2015-01-05T16:27:01.153" Score="3" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an Igloo 6 ft^3 kegerator as my first venture into kegging. It worked very well the first day but has been pouring wildly ever since. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The beer line is 4.5 feet of 3/16&quot; PVC; based on the numbers from Beersmith, this is a good length to get 1 PSI at the tap for a keg pressure of 12 PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I left a pint glass of water overnight in the bottom of the kegerator; it measured 32° F this morning. I'm doing another glass on top of the keg tonight but I can't imagine it'll be anywhere near 40° F.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I plan to pick up some ½&quot; copper tubing to insulate the beer line in the tower and install it when the parts for my Sanke to Cornelius kit comes in, but because I'm still getting extremely foamy pours two and three pours from the first, I don't think heat is the major cause of these problems.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brings me to the regulator, which I think might be faulty. A couple observations and questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there supposed to be any difference in the reading between the pressure with the shutoff valve turned &quot;off&quot; and &quot;on&quot;? With the valve off, I set the regulator to 14 PSI; after turning the valve on, the pressure drops to 9 PSI and stays there. 18 drops to 10, 20 drops to 14 (and then creeps slightly downward). Is this normal? Is it safe to employ a little Kentucky windage on this system? Is it okay to open the shutoff valve and then fine tune the regulator?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is a &quot;normal&quot; magnitude and velocity for needle creep? I'll find that I thought I set the pressure to a stable 12 PSI but when I open the door 15 minutes later it's at 13-14 PSI. When it does this, do I just tweak the regulator and go on about my day? (And how will that affect force carbonating my home-brews?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3876" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T15:23:58.700" Title="Troubleshooting wild pours from kegerator" Tags="|kegging|co2|kegerator|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13498" CreationDate="2015-01-06T02:06:05.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends entirely on what you mean by 'the nature' or 'quality of  of the carbonation'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we're talking carbonation and only carbonation (literally the level of dissolved carbon dioxide in the finished product, usually expressed as volumes of CO2/volume of liquid, or as parts per million) there's no difference between reaching that by bottle-conditioning or force-carbonating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the procedural differences between forcing and conditioning can affect the quality of the finished product in a number of perceptible ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Gas purity/content: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When force-carbonating, CO2 of the highest purity must be used. Extraneous gasses (most onerously oxygen) or flavor/aroma compounds might otherwise be introduced and subsequently affect finished beer quality (though nitrogen is sometimes added as part of the profile of the finished product). In bottle-conditioning, CO2 evolved through yeast fermentation is chemically pure, and in fact the yeast growth in the early phase of re-fermentation scavenges oxygen from the beer and tends to improve stability. So you end up with a different profile of dissolved gasses in the end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Gas stripping:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer is force-carb'd by injecting CO2 at high pressure into the liquid and periodically bleeding it off, flavor and aroma compounds (especially from hops) can be carried out of solution with the gas. You often hear of people bottle-conditioning dry-hopped beers to maintain the highest level of hop aroma. Conversely this technique could be a boon, for example, for a beer with a low hop aroma profile that ends up with too much sulfur dioxide, which can be mitigated by stripping with inert gas (CO2, N2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that this technique and other force-carbonating methods that involve lots of foaming (cranking up the CO2 pressure and shaking a corny, for example) can negatively affect the head retention qualities of a beer. Foam-positive agents that form as foam during processing (before it's in your glass) can either stick to the side of the vessel or form on the surface and return to the beer as 'flakes'. Any foam-positives lost during processing no longer contribute to foam potential in the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Binding of CO2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Wolfgang Kunze in &lt;em&gt;Technology Brewing and Malting&lt;/em&gt;, 'the binding of the CO2 (solution) is at first only loose. Permanent binding to the colloids in the beer takes some time'. Vague, yes. But it suggests that a very recently force-carbonated beer would show different characteristics in the way it foamed/lost carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Presence and quality of yeast/other stuff:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many ways to bottle-condition that will give you a different outcomes: a fully fermented and conditioned beer can be filtered, then yeast and fermentable sugar added right before packaging (meaning flavor/aroma/mouthfeel/foam could be affected by what's filtered out, and the flavor/aroma contribution of the re-fermentation is more predictable because quantities of yeast and sugar are known); unfiltered, fully-attenuated beer can be dosed with fermentable sugar (meaning a possibly unknown quantity of yeast in the final product, plus less predictable flavor/aroma contributions by the re-fermentation due to the unknown physiological condition of the yeast); much less commonly, still-fermenting beer can be packaged (or at least held under pressure) when it is a known degree above final gravity, trapping the still-evolvoing CO2 in solution (meaning flavor/aroma compounds such as hop oils and sulfur compounds that would otherwise be carried out of the beer by escaping fermentation gases will now end up in the finished product, changing its quality).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to mention any conditioned beer has yeast in the final product which, depending on the amount and quality, can lead to quality issues due to autolysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In re:&#xA;&quot;In the above passage, all the qualities attributed to natural conditioning could also be the result of slightly higher level of carbonation compared with the force carbonated beer.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly, but probably not 'the beer feels smoother', and 'fewer bubbles sticking to the glass' would not indicate higher carbonation (though it sounds like that glass was probably objectively cleaner than the other).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum it up, while precisely the same levels of carbonation can be achieved either way, so many small things can be affected by how you carbonate that you'll never end up with &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same finished product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T02:06:05.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13520" CreationDate="2015-01-06T02:37:14.693" Score="1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought a Youngs u Brew 7 Day wine kit. Similar to this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/winebuddy-sauvignon-blanc-30-bottles-p-532.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/winebuddy-sauvignon-blanc-30-bottles-p-532.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions says that I should only bottle when the gravity is between 1.006 and 1.000. However, after the 6 days as stated in the instructions I tested my gravity only to find that its at 1.032. So that is a massive difference. I'm guessing the yeast didn't do it's job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature was about right the entire time. Had a belt around the demijon at time to ensure it stayed around 22 degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was excessive foaming at one stage, so I am wondering if that affected the wine in some way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there a correct gravity for wine at this stage? If so, am I completely off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3821" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T22:29:13.243" Title="What is the correct gravity for white wine?" Tags="|wine|kits|youngs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-06T11:09:53.670" Score="3" ViewCount="440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to ferment in kegs, and want to naturally carbonate my beers by using a spunding valve. My batches yield 3 kegs, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/13479/aerating-no-chill-corny-keg-fermentors-that-dont-seal&quot;&gt;I'm already using a 4º keg to aerate them after no chill&lt;/a&gt; and after the fermentation is done to transfer the beer to clean kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to set the pressure on 3 kegs? First I was thinking in just make 3 complete spunding valves. But the parts here for me are a little expensive to do that. So I made a interchangeable system based on quick-disconnects that allow me to control 1 or 3 kegs, based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://bubrew.org/pressure-ferment.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this project&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I've read an &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9352/how-can-i-ferment-in-a-corny-keg-under-constant-pressure/9361#9361&quot;&gt;answer here&lt;/a&gt;, from MalFet, that says he use a filter cage as a blowoff trap, and somewhere else in other forums (sorry, I was not able to find it again) a guy saying that he uses another keg as blowoff and attach his valve on this keg to avoid beer get the valve at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my real question is: can I connect 3 kegs (by its gas in posts) to a liquid out post of my 4º keg (with some sanitizer inside) and just a single spunding valve on the gas in side? It should work as a big blowoff vessel and a spunding valve, and I'm planning on set the system since fermentation is begun. Do you think that it will work? Any tought to realize this project another way? Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T15:03:55.340" Title="Spunding CO2 from 3 keg fermentors" Tags="|fermentation|carbonation|corny-keg|blow-off|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13513" CreationDate="2015-01-06T18:20:26.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'because I'm still getting extremely foamy pours two and three pours from the first, I don't think heat is the major cause of these problems.'&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;I think you're right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your fridge really is 32 deg. the foaming might be an issue of over-carbonation. Fully saturated, beer at 32 deg/12 PSI will be carbonated to 2.9 volumes (if you're dispensing with pure CO2, which I'm sure you are). Bump this up to 14 PSI for long enough and the carbonation would eventually get over 3.1 vol. At 40 deg. you'd still be at 2.47 and 2.65 vol., respectively, which is not at all inappropriate for some styles, but getting towards the high end if you ask me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Is there supposed to be any difference in the reading between the pressure with the shutoff valve turned &quot;off&quot; and &quot;on&quot;'&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;Only if the system has lost pressure somehow, and you'd hear a hissing of gas and see the needle going back up to where it started as it re-pressurizes. Sounds like your regulator is faulty, as you suggest. Try tapping the gauge, or quickly popping the pressure relief valve open a few times to see if this resets the needle. Fine-tuning it with the valve open might work (see below), but there's probably no reason to think the gauge will read more accurately that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be best to adjust the regulator pressure based on the flow rate at the tap. Since it's the only variable that's really easily controlled (much more so than accurately changing the temp. of the fridge or the resistance of your beer lines [but also see below on that]), I think adjusting that, even by eye, makes the most sense. See how low you go can while still getting flow, and see if that helps your foaming. This will at first just be due to lower velocity out of the tap but the lower dispense pressure will eventually lead to lower beer carbonation as the liquid and head-space gas pressures equalize (this can take days, especially at cold temps), so you may have to do fiddle up and down to balance flow and carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned before, the setup you have may also just be improperly balanced. Balance in draught terms means applying the right pressure on the keg to overcome the resistance of the system, while maintaining the right carbonation level in the beer. According to the Brewers Association &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.draughtquality.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/DQM_Full_Final.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Draught Beer Quality Manual&lt;/a&gt;, your tubing alone (PVC, 4.5 ft. @ 3/16th&quot;) should give you ~13.5 lb. of resistance, not accounting for other resistance such as from the faucet, or the height of the faucet above the keg. This means you might actually need to apply almost 15PSI to the keg to achieve proper dispense velocity. You may in fact be doing this, if you don't really know what your pressure is set to. 32 deg/15 psi will give you carbonation at almost soft-drink levels (3.2+ vol), and 40 deg/15 psi is still high at almost 2.8 vol. If this is in fact the issue, you'd just have to cut the line down a bit and reattach it to the shank inside the tower, giving you less resistance (shorter line = less resistance) and therefore lessening the pressure you need to apply to the keg, allowing you to maintain a proper carbonation level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's always helpful to remember that the carbonation level of a beer is really a matter of only two factors: temperature and pressure. &lt;em&gt;Increasing&lt;/em&gt; pressure and &lt;em&gt;decreasing&lt;/em&gt; temperature both have the same effect of increasing carbonation, an important factor when trying to get a draught system working just right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus:&#xA;Here's a good chart that illustrates the relationship between temperature and pressure in beer (and is indispensable to me): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zahmnagel.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=HuVGZ8tLaow%3D&amp;amp;tabid=81&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.zahmnagel.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=HuVGZ8tLaow%3D&amp;amp;tabid=81&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T15:23:58.700" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T15:23:58.700" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13516" CreationDate="2015-01-06T22:29:13.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing you can do now is wait. Chances are the yeast are still actively metabolizing sugars, albeit a bit slower than earlier in the fermentation. Check it in a week, and if the gravity hasn't dropped significantly, consider pitching a fresh packet of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you don't want to do is bottle the wine now. If fermentation is, as I suspect, continuing, the bottles will end up exploding or blowing their corks. Yeast produces CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; as well as alcohol, which, if confined, can create massive pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though the kit you used is sold as a 7-day kit, the wine will taste &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; better if you let it age some. Personally, I don't drink a wine until it's aged at least a year. Your patience may not extend that far, but if you can give it 3 or 4 months you'll be rewarded with a much tastier drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T22:29:13.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13517" CreationDate="2015-01-07T05:41:54.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I imagine some flow of foam between kegs might be possible, but not necessarily bad. Almost a &lt;a href=&quot;http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Burton_Union_fermentation_system,_Coors_Visitor_Centre_-_geograph.org.uk_-_476438.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Burton Union&lt;/a&gt; system if done right.&#xA;I would make sure that each keg has it's own relief valve (these are cornies, right?) and try to use clear tubing as much as possible, so you can see that foam is flowing and each keg is fermenting on schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T05:41:54.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-07T13:39:00.213" Score="0" ViewCount="1436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know anything about Tincture?  I know adding fruit to beer can be unsanitary.  Would it work to Tincture fruit and add to my brew secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10665" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T21:35:49.450" Title="Can you use tincture method to infuse fruit?" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14519" CreationDate="2015-01-07T14:16:50.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have added fruit directly to my secondary, once after boiling, and once after freezing. Both times worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've read the tincture method is to disolve the flavor in spirits (similar to making sloe gin &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/sloegin_7722&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/sloegin_7722&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you mean to add spirits to the brew? I would approach this with caution. Too much alcohol will kill the yeast (hence wines peaking at 13-15%) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead perhaps treat it as fortifying the drink, by adding the spirit after fermentation is ceased. (Similar to fortified wine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10666" LastEditorUserId="10666" LastEditDate="2015-01-07T16:51:46.063" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T16:51:46.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14519" CreationDate="2015-01-07T20:06:33.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I've made vodka-based tinctures of all sorts of spices and herbs for addition to beer, I think the volume needed for fruit would be problematic. While most spices are used in the 1oz/5gl ratio and you can get away with a couple-hundred mL of tincture addition, most fruit additions are closer to 1lb/1gl, where a couple-thousand ml of tincture will really start to add up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had plenty of success adding cleaned then frozen fruit directly to secondary. Between the freezing, presence of alcohol and lowered pH of secondary, contamination is less of a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T20:06:33.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14519" CreationDate="2015-01-07T21:35:49.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Would it work to Tincture fruit and add to my brew secondary?&quot;&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll work, but the real answer depends entirely on what you're hoping to accomplish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're doing something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://cocktailchem.blogspot.com/2012/04/making-fruit-tinctures.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, you'll most likely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-End up with a noticeably more alcoholic beer (as others have mentioned). Consider that adding 16 oz. of 40% ABV liquor to a 5 gal. batch of 5% ABV beer will boost the overall ABV to almost 5.9%. I could easily see needing at &lt;em&gt;least&lt;/em&gt; a pint of liquor to tincture a pound of fruit properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Get a different fruit flavor than you would by conditioning on whole fruit. Soaking fruit in higher alcohol solutions should favor extraction of alcohol-soluble flavor and aroma compounds over water-soluble ones, whereas in beer the balance is in favor of water-soluble compounds. I've never done it before though, so I can't speak to what the difference would actually be. My guess is it would taste more 'extract-y'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, there's absolutely nothing about it that won't &quot;work&quot; so no reason you shouldn't try it if it appeals to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T21:35:49.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13517" CreationDate="2015-01-08T15:03:55.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only issue I can see is potentially overwhelming the blow-off setup by sending in three primary fermentations worth of foam through one dip tube, since you indicate you'd set this system at the start of fermentation. Between the long, skinny dip tube and all the narrow passages through posts and fittings, I could imagine some of the really chunky first kräusen maybe giving you trouble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, clean-up sounds like it could potentially be a pain, but hey, you'll already be cleaning three cornies so adding a bit more won't break the deal for you I'm sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I think if you're careful about keeping foaming to a minimum (as it seems MalFet has been able to do with this method) and all kegs have their own pressure relief, you'll do just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of curiosity, how do you plan to do your yeast pitching on this system? Will you pitch it then split it? Or split it and do three separate pitches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T15:03:55.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-08T20:19:02.463" Score="6" ViewCount="818" Body="&lt;p&gt;What exactly the &quot;dry&quot; means in the &quot;dry hop&quot; expression ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it refers to a dry flavor of hop in beer? Or because the hops were added to beer in a dried form? Could it be called or explained as &quot;cold hop&quot;? Or what? ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: A THEORY/SPECULATION - Considering the hop history in the beer and when it started to be used to &quot;dry hop&quot;. Could it be preferably used in a dried form to avoid contamination instead of its fresh flowers ? And so... &quot;adding dried hop&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2015-01-09T12:43:07.447" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T17:36:34.773" Title="&quot;Dry hop&quot; etymology" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14526" CreationDate="2015-01-08T20:34:45.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting question.  I did some searching and didn't find an answer.  Since dry-hopping refers to adding hops after fermentation is complete, though, I can only assume that somehow &quot;wet&quot; is related to fermentation and, therefore, &quot;dry&quot; relates to post-fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8330" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T20:34:45.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14526" CreationDate="2015-01-08T21:47:39.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know there's no traceable etymology of the word 'dry' in this context. No one I've known in the brewing world has had anything close to a solid answer for this question. I think it's just lost to history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In looking around, I found at least two instances of referring to the process as &quot;cold hopping&quot;, so you're right there. It just refers to any hop addition after wort cooling (not that you'd ever want to add hops before primary, that would just be a waste...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T21:47:39.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14526" CreationDate="2015-01-08T23:44:01.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't really answer your question, but I've found some interesting information nonetheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The phrase &quot;dry hopped&quot; didn't appear until the early 20th century, according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/ngrams/graph?content=dry%20hopped&amp;amp;year_start=1800&amp;amp;year_end=2000&amp;amp;corpus=15&amp;amp;smoothing=3&amp;amp;share=&amp;amp;direct_url=t1%3B%2Cdry%20hopped%3B%2Cc0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google's NGram&lt;/a&gt;. The sense of the phrase, from looking at a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=%22dry%20hopped%22&amp;amp;tbs=bks:1,cdr:1,cd_min:1800,cd_max:1911&amp;amp;lr=lang_en&amp;amp;gws_rd=cr,ssl&amp;amp;ei=rRSvVJ-DM47ooATus4GQDw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;few samples&lt;/a&gt; seems to be the same as in modern use. &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.ca/books?id=YLpBAQAAMAAJ&amp;amp;q=%22dry%20hopped%22&amp;amp;dq=%22dry%20hopped%22&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=_RSvVM77Fc3aoATnwYLgBw&amp;amp;ved=0CCsQ6AEwAzgK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hopped down&lt;/a&gt;&quot; was a synonym that has fallen out of favour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T23:44:01.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14526" CreationDate="2015-01-09T03:53:08.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the absence of facts, be creative...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building on the idea that &quot;Dry&quot; is an antonym for &quot;Sweet&quot;, perhaps &quot;Dry Hopping&quot; is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adding of hops after the yeast has consumed most of the sugars, when the wort/beer is comparatively no longer sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not claiming any proof that this is the origin of the phrase, just a completely unfounded yet apparently solid guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- edit in response to down vote --&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone please suggest how I could have phrased the answer above to better avoid the negative responses?  I admitted that my idea was just a guess, but I stand on it being a solid guess.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastEditorUserId="8464" LastEditDate="2015-01-09T17:36:34.773" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T17:36:34.773" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12147" CreationDate="2015-01-09T15:49:57.463" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If You Have;&#xA;      healthy yeast,&#xA;      good sanitation,&#xA;      fresh ingredients,&#xA;      good temperatures, &#xA;      a low to medium low OG,&#xA;           YAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can hit your FG in as little as 4 days!!!!!!!!!!!!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens in the next 3 to 7 days is cleanup duty for healthy yeast that are left,&#xA;after consuming the sugar you provided,they turn on whatever is left in the finished wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ON THE 7TH 8TH 9TH DAY YOU MUST TAKE A GRAVITY READING AND DETERMINE IF YOU HAVE REACHED&#xA;YOUR FINAL GRAVITY.THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO DETERMINE IF THE FERMENT IS DONE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you reach FG and hold that reading (+_.010)FOR THREE CONSECUTIVE DAYS, you are done fermenting.At that point you can leave beer in for longer to allow solids in the beer to drop out and clear.&#xA;Personally i would not leave in Primary longer than 18 days,before bottling or secondary container WHICH I NEVER USE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ONE MORE GOLDEN RULE,WHICH I ALWAYS FOLLOW,MAKE A PROPER SIZED YEAST STARTER AND YOU WILL&#xA;BE GUARANTEED OF HAVING ENOUGH YEAST!!!!!!!! IT IS SO SIMPLE MY 10 YEAR OLD NIECE DOES IT FOR ME.&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew/starter-tips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew/starter-tips&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; Good Luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10678" LastEditorUserId="10678" LastEditDate="2015-01-09T15:57:08.963" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T15:57:08.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12147" CreationDate="2015-01-10T04:08:28.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Concerning the table sugar that you said made up half of your initial fermentables, was that half by weight or half by volume?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you measure your starting specific gravity after the boil?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned that you got less foam that you had expected.  I would guess that that might be a side effect of using the table sugar, as it is 100% fermentable and therefore doesn't contribute anything to the foam layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how much sugar you added, you may have started at a significantly higher initial specific gravity.  If that is the case, you may have reached your yeast's maximum alcohol level already.  You may never get to your 1.08 FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if that is the case, its not a problem.  Your beer should still be great.  It will just be a little sweeter than expected.  It should still taste good and have the expected alcohol level (or greater).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be sure that fermentation has stopped (stable specific gravity for 2-3 days) before moving on to the next step.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T04:08:28.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14537" CreationDate="2015-01-10T06:23:43.343" Score="6" ViewCount="20709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of both for very similar uses. What is the difference between a mash tun and a lauter tun? Or more generally, what is the difference between a mash and a lauter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lautering&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wiki&lt;/a&gt; article on lautering, which implies after the mash, there is a rinse and sparge of the mash, but wouldn't that be taken care of in the mash tun, with a false bottom and vorlouf, with no need for an extra lautering container?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T14:52:02.453" Title="Mash Tun vs Lauter Tun" Tags="|mash-tun|lauter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14536" CreationDate="2015-01-10T06:34:50.653" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the most recent Zymurgy, there is a recipe that involves step infusion mash. It's not quite explained how to get the wort off the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was wondering how a step infusion mash works? I currently brew BIAB, with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/biab-draining-459814/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;my own sparge/rinse system&lt;/a&gt;, getting about 75-85% efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This step infusion calls for some water at 140 degrees (30 minutes), then some boiling water (again 30 minutes, mixing with previous water, the boiling temp is mitigated), then &quot;lauter and sparge&quot; with 3.5 gallons to get 6 gallons runoff. My question is what is 'lauter and sparge'? Aren't they the same thing? This is related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/14533/3925&quot;&gt;my question here&lt;/a&gt;, but this question is about a specific recipe and method. That question is more general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T10:08:57.413" Title="Step Infusion question" Tags="|mash|sparge|lauter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14533" CreationDate="2015-01-10T09:53:51.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They could be the same container, it seems that most people do it that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mashed in one container, and then transferred to another to separate the grains &amp;amp; wort, then you would have a mash tun and a lauter tun. I've used a small 2 vessel pro system set up this way, where the mash was done in the boil kettle and then pumped over to the lauter to separate. Not really the fastest or cleanest method, IMHO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T09:53:51.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14534" CreationDate="2015-01-10T10:08:57.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lautering is the separation or wort from grains, sparging is the rinsing of water through the grains to get more wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most recipes call for a sparge to get a good effeciency, and if you fly sparge then you would be doing your lauter and sparge at the same time. (Some people  ladle water onto the grain bed and call it batch sparging... but I think it works the same way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lautering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; from the other question, you don't necessarily have to sparge (add water) after mashing. You could just drain (lauter) the wort and have small amount of really strong wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OTOH you can 'over sparge' - which is to send all of your wort through the grain bed. It is undesirable since, assuming the lauter tun has good unidirectional flow, the sugars will removed from the grains early in the process, and wort coming off later will only contain tannins (and taste bitter). This is made worse by using excessively hot sparge water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T10:08:57.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14533" CreationDate="2015-01-10T14:52:02.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically, &lt;em&gt;mashing&lt;/em&gt; is the process of extracting soluble materials from the grains with water and enzymatically converting them into a form the yeast can use, while &lt;em&gt;lautering&lt;/em&gt; refers to the separation of the liquid and solid portions of the finished mash. So mashing is an enzymatic/chemical process, and lautering is basically physical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In big operations, a dedicated mash tun is essentially a second kettle designed to handle the thick mash. The lauter tun would be close to what we tend to use as a mash/lauter tun: insulated but not heated, with a false bottom for separation, and some kind of sparging aparatus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good thing is that, if you're doing full all-grain batches, you should already have a kettle large enough to act as a mash tun if you want to do temperature-step mashes. Then you can just dump it in the mash/lauter tun for separation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T14:52:02.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14539" CreationDate="2015-01-10T18:50:21.017" Score="1" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;In John Palmer's spread sheet, he calculates the low target RA as &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;SRM * 12.2 - 122&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He calculates the high target RA as &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(SRM-5.2)*12.2.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/hops/item/1545-understanding-residual-alkalinity-ph-advanced-homebrewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BYO&lt;/a&gt; article states that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;`target SRM = 0.14 * RA[CaCO3] + 5.2`, &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or to restate it,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;`RA as CaCO3 = (SRM - 5.2) / 0.14`&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and taking the reciprocal of the divisor we get &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;RA as CaC03 = (SRM - 5.2) * 7.14&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar to John Palmer's high target of &lt;code&gt;(SRM-5.2)*12.2&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So given a beer with 33 SRM, The BYO produces a target RA of ~200 and Palmer's high target produces a target RA of ~339 (his low target is 280).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many competing formulas are there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which ones are used in the brewing software and how did they get selected over a competing formula?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T03:24:20.460" Title="What are the competing formulas for determining target Residual Alkalinity from SRM?" Tags="|srm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14538" CreationDate="2015-01-11T21:22:42.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Beer_color,_alkalinity_and_mash_pH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; will probably shed some light on the subject for you (it did for me). Also, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Beer_color_to_mash_pH_%28v2.0%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; for a more specific discussion on the correlation of color to pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, though, that the relationship between color and pH can be quite loose. The final remarks in the first linked article state &lt;em&gt;&quot;the approach outlined here only provides for a crude estimation of the mash pH and that there are cases where this prediction will not be correct&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. To quote Palmer, &lt;em&gt;&quot;You can use the calculated color of a beer recipe as a guide, but don’t rely on it as gospel to determine the appropriate amount of residual alkalinty; it is a general relationship, like cloud color and rain&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e:&#xA;Worth noting that &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/documents/effect_of_water_and_grist_on_mash_pH.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the experiments&lt;/a&gt; on which these conclusions are based note that &lt;em&gt;&quot;[i]t was found that Kolbach's pH change based on residual alkalinity is generally used incorrectly in (home) brewing and that it depends on more factors than just the residual alkalinity of the brewing water when mash pH is of interest&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (the Kolbach method being cited by both the Palmer and BYO articles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-01-11T21:34:14.860" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T21:34:14.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14540" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-12T01:17:03.960" Score="1" ViewCount="4932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got one complete, and one brewing batch of this &quot;Alcotec Vodka Type Spirit&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alcotec-Vodka-Spirit-Alcohol-Moonshine/dp/B004LXZAUW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1421024826&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=alcotec+vodka&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alcotec-Vodka-Spirit-Alcohol-Moonshine/dp/B004LXZAUW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1421024826&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=alcotec+vodka&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about 2 weeks of having syphoned off about 2 litres into a plastic bottle it smelt terrible with what I can only describe as a cheesy aroma. The rest of the batch has a bit of a yeasty smell to it (this is long after having used the activated carbon, finings etc. and syphoning off very liberally) and some that I had syphoned into a glass bottle smells somewhat in between. I have another 30 litres of this stuff brewing and I don't know what to do to ensure it doesn't go to waste if it turns out the same. Would it just be the water I used or some yeast still suspended in the brew or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking into Freeze Concentrating and am considering trying it with this, would that help at all? and more generally what can I do in future to ensure my brews don't have such a tiny shelf life. I made a 25 litre batch of wine a few months ago which has been gradually becoming less and less pleasant while still being fairly gassy (I may have exposed it to oxygen after fermenting but I'm really not sure)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help on these matters would be greatly appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10685" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T11:03:32.677" Title="20% sugar, water and yeast brew smells awful quickly, how to fix?" Tags="|fermentation|wine|off-flavor|aroma|alcohol|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14540" CreationDate="2015-01-12T09:28:43.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cheesy smell usually means you have bacteria in your mash and they have access to oxygen. If this were a sour-mashed beer it would be considered a lost cause at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how this kit is supposed to work, but it's sounds like sanitation is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T09:28:43.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-12T16:21:41.780" Score="0" ViewCount="1504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a few batches of wine and they seem to turn out alright except for being extremely frothy. I think in the past I've made the mistake of exposing my wine to oxygen when trying to agitate the gas out and I'm wondering if the gas would come out naturally if left alone and if so how long this might take. It seems when I bottle my wine it begins to start tasting off very quickly while the rest left in the fermenter still tastes fine, as if it just has a really short shelf-life. Should I be adding campden tablets? and if so when? I've only ever put my wine into sterile glass bottles but there seems to be a dramatic taste difference overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10685" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:05:12.110" Title="How long does wine take to de-gas without much agitation" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14542" CreationDate="2015-01-12T20:56:43.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does seem like your rapid staling could easily be due to oxygen exposure. To protect against this, you'd have to find a way to agitate it under an inert gas atmosphere (after primary is perfect since the head space in your fermenter is pure CO2, if you don't take lids or airlocks off). Otherwise you'll just be whipping/splashing/stirring air into the wine. Campden tabs are sodium metabisufate, which counteracts oxidation caused by dissolved oxygen. Personally I wouldn't use them. I think it's better to avoid oxidation than to use additives to mitigate its effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the carbonation, I've never had to degas before, hopefully others know the practicalities of doing this better.. However, consider that beer will hold just over 1 volume of CO2 at atmospheric pressure and 68 °F after fermentation (so I'd think wine would be a bit less due to higher gravity). That's 1 liter of CO2 dissolved in every liter of wine. Since unless you rack it or open the fermenter it would be under a pure CO2 atmosphere, the gas in the liquid will be in equilibrium with the gas above it. This means there would be as much CO2 going out of solution as was going in. So hypothetically, once you're at that level (~1 vol.) of carbonation it shouldn't go any lower without agitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously it will degas in the real (non-ideal/hypothetical) world, but it would be only as fast as outside air could move into the headspace (air leaks around the lid/airlock/wherever, maybe natural porosity of plastic or rubber components). All I can say is it will degas but it's going to take a long time (I'm imagining months). I think this is probably why people seem to choose to physically degas their wines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry I can't point to any good methods to help degassing, I hope someone else might be able to enlighten you though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T16:05:12.110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:05:12.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14540" CreationDate="2015-01-13T10:58:18.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; recommend freeze concentrating this brew.  To do so would be quite dangerous.  Freeze concentrating is iffy at the best of times, even when concentrating something that has brewed clean.  What it does is concentrate everything (except water).  Distilling (properly) will remove unhealthy brewing by-products like methanol and other organic chemicals.  Whereas freeze concentrating will concentrate them as well.  I'm afraid all this batch is good for is pouring down the sink.  Pepi is right, it's icnfected.  Never drink or try and rescue a infected batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you clean your brewing gear very well before brewing, and add enough yeast to crowd out any other micro-organisms.  Look up how to clean your gear.  I usually wash everything with a brewing detergent and on brew day I use a diluted no rinse acid to rinse everything and soak all the things that will come in contact with my brew.  This includes all the surfaces around the brew, measuring equipment, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend using this kind of kit for freeze concentrating at all.  They are designed to brew fast and dirty, with the presumption being that all the nasty extras this causes will be removed by distilling.  If you are going to freeze brew then don't use a super yeast.  A champagne yeast will be much better (while also getting a highly concentrated brew).  Also add a little acid to your sugar water as having the right pH reduces the amount of &lt;em&gt;off&lt;/em&gt; flavours and reduces brew time.  I add 6mL of lemon juice to every litre of water (not the bottles of shelf bought stuff as that contains preservatives which will slow fermentation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use brewing sugar (ie glucose / dextrose) instead of normal sugar, as you won't get the nasty 'homebrew tang' that's caused when yeast breaks the bond in the surcrose.  I use 100g / litre to make my sugar water - which is 5%, though it will end up as 5.5% once I've added the carbonation sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ingredients / Litre&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;100g dextrose&#xA;6mL lemon juice&#xA;1 L water&#xA;It can be scaled up to whatever your brew vessel size is.  If you want to test how it'll turn out / taste you can make it up in a soft drink bottle.  I do 1.8L in a 2L bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try and keep the brew around 20 degrees (or failing that at least don't let it fluctuate too much).  Wine yeasts are pretty forgiving though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add some more dextrose (about 6g-7g / litre) before bottling so that it's nice and carbonated (coke bottles are the best as they take very high carbonation and don't let too much of the gas escape).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it's carbonated (about 2-3 weeks - at 20 degree room temperature) you can refrigerate the bottles and add them to your favourite cordial.  My favourite are lemon or ginger beer flavours.  This is much safer than trying to concentrate by freezing, and makes a tasty alcopop (which seems to be your intention).  The final alcoholic concentration will be around 5 percent once the cordial is added.  Be careful drinking this, especially if using it as a mixer (which doubles the final alcohol level).  It goes down easily and, except for a slight aftertaste, doesn't taste alcoholic at all.  It's a cheap and easy booze, but that doesn't mean you can't stay classy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the best in your brewing adventures.  Here's the thread where I discussed my initial experiments:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/51034-so-i-finally-got-around-to-making-my-alcoholic-water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/51034-so-i-finally-got-around-to-making-my-alcoholic-water&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Feel free to mix it up a bit.  :)  Have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10690" LastEditorUserId="10690" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T11:03:32.677" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T11:03:32.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14542" CreationDate="2015-01-13T15:12:23.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't de-gas my wines. I age them for a year before bottling, and at that point in time, they do not feel carbonated when drinking. Of course, there's still CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in solution, but because it's reached equilibrium with the atmosphere, it doesn't spontaneous come out of solution as carbonation. Hence the wine doesn't feel carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the wine's fermentation, I rack it twice. Once when primary fermentation has finished (after 2 or 3 weeks), and a second time after the wine has clarified (2 or 3 months). At each racking I add 1 Campden tablet per gallon, which raises the free sulphur by ~70 ppm. This is enough to counteract any oxygenation that might result from splashing during oxygenation, but it's low enough that by the time I'm ready to bottle (or keg, as I usually do), the wine no longer has a noticeable sulphur aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T15:12:23.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1706" CreationDate="2015-01-13T16:14:05.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crystal Malt is a subset of Caramel Malt. Thus all Crystal Malts are Caramel Malts, but not all Caramel Malts are Crystal Malts. Confusing the issue of nomenclature is the fact that Crystal Malt is sometimes referred to as Caramel Malt, especially by American maltsters. It is not possible to tell whether a &quot;caramel malt&quot; is Crystal Malt or a non-crystal Caramel Malt solely from the name used by the maltster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crystal Malt refers to green malt that is roasted in a drum roaster at around 150°F, creating steam and causing the starches to be converted to sugar inside the husk (each grain is a tiny, self-contained mash). The grains are then roasted at increasingly higher temperatures to achieve around 300°F, at which time the sugar is crystallized and caramelized within the husk. Thus, around 90% of the grains have hard, glassy crystals of sugar inside. The duration and temperature profile of the roasting determines the Lovibond color of the Crystal Malt produced this way. This is very much a handmade process, with the skill of the roaster being an integral part of the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Incidentally, &quot;green&quot; malt means that the grains are still living and growing at the time of roasting or kilning.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving on to non-crystal Caramel Malt, this malt is also produced using green malt, but it is traditionally produced in a kiln. The grains are spread in an even layer on the floor of the kiln. While the grains in the bottom layers of the kiln become crystal malts, as described above, the grains on the top layers get dried and Maillard reactions occur in the malts, creating malts that are similar to Vienna Malt or Munich Malt. Maillard reaction products produce entirely different flavors (toasty, bready, etc.) than caramelized sugar (caramel, sweet, etc.) Thus, non-crystal Caramel Malt contains roughly 50% hard, glassy crystal malts, and 50% crunchy, Vienna- or Munich-type malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The newer and common way of producing non-crystal Caramel Malt is to produce crystal malt, and then to blend in a portion of Vienna Malt and/or Munich Malt to achieve the desired characteristics. This leads to greater consistency in the final malt. Briess and Weyerman, for example, produce their non-crystal Caramel Malt in this fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source&lt;/em&gt;: Terry Foster and Bob Hansen, &quot;Is it Crystal or Caramel Malt?&quot;, &lt;em&gt;Brew Your Own&lt;/em&gt; magazine, November 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T16:14:05.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-13T18:11:49.240" Score="1" ViewCount="813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am anxious to start a batch of lambic, but have some reservations timing wise about the temperature in my basement currently.  My basement goes from around 45 in winter (now) to 60-65 at the end of summer.  If I keep the fermenter at ale temps for the first 10 days or so and then (slowly) lower the temp to ambient, am I going to stall/stunt the wild cultures too much?  Would I be better off waiting until the ambient temp is around 60 to let the cultures have a better start before they start to cool off in the winter?  Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10692" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T19:54:19.593" Title="Lambic fermentation/aging temperature" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|lambics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14547" CreationDate="2015-01-13T19:54:19.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd try to keep the beer warm for at least two or three weeks to ensure good primary fermentation. If you can do that, I say just go for it. The wild/bacteria portions of the culture will express themselves eventually. Many are slow moving to begin with, and the initial lower temps will not stop them, just slow them down a bit. The beer won't taste right for many months (or years) anyhow, leaving plenty of time for all the beasties to do their things once it warms up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, it's what the Belgians do. From Jeff Sparrow's &lt;em&gt;Wild Brews&lt;/em&gt; (which you should have if you are doing lambics, and don't already):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;A seasonal beer, lambic is brewed and exposed to wild yeast and bacteria while in the coolship and allowed a 'primary fermentation' during the cooler months. The onset of summer brings an increase in the population of lactic acid-producing bacteria. The fall brings with it a secondary alcoholic fermentation by highly attenuative yeasts&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T19:54:19.593" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-13T23:40:52.350" Score="0" ViewCount="1809" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you refill an empty Newcastle or Heineken mini keg with your own home brew? I have recently purchased a &quot;Koolatron&quot; 5 liter mini keg system and want to know if my empty mini kegs can be filled with my own homemade beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9623" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T03:33:33.450" Title="refilling 5 liter Newcastle mini keg's" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14549" CreationDate="2015-01-14T03:33:33.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently there is a CO2 cartridge inside those kegs that can not be removed without &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themeparkreview.com/forum/files/germany_569_102.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cutting it open&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some people have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=&amp;amp;t=21461&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;used them anyway&lt;/a&gt;. But I would worry about cleaning a keg with a bunch of foreign objects inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T03:33:33.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-15T08:39:16.550" Score="5" ViewCount="2332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been struggling a bit to get hop aroma into an IPA, and I think maybe my hop bags aren't letting enough wort get into the hops. I've been adding 50g of Simcoe to 20L of wort 5 minutes before flameout and getting a fairly plain beer. 25g of the same hops as a dry is doing nice things for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody have strong feelings about bag or no bag for late additions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of the bag material: (cheap disposable Chinese Traditional Medicine bag)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XFiP4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cheap disposable Chinese Traditional Medicine bag&quot;&gt;. The bag is about 20cm x30cm over all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T16:14:31.783" Title="Aroma hops: to bag or not?" Tags="|hops|techniques|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14552" CreationDate="2015-01-15T10:35:26.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always do all my hop additions without bags. Recently I've try dry hop in the serving keg with bags and liked, because otherwise it would clog my line, but on the boil, I don't think it is very useful, since the hop material will be easy left behind with break material on the kettle. If you don't be able to let it behind, it will be nice on the fermenter to. It will fall on the yeast cake and everything will be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about what material is used in your bag, but seems like it have a mesh that is so tight that the hops couldn't mix very well to the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you will get more utilization on the aroma additions without bags. And there is no chance of harm for your beer, so give it a try and see!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a plate chiller. If so, forget about it and just try another kind of bag, or make something to ensure that hop material don't get the plates, or maybe you will have a clogged thing to deal with. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastEditorUserId="12236" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T16:14:31.783" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T16:14:31.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14556" CreationDate="2015-01-15T13:34:17.520" Score="5" ViewCount="7906" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems as though there are two predominant methods of kegging: &quot;saturation over time&quot; and &quot;high pressure and shaking&quot;. I have also seen only two references to another method: connecting the Gas In line to the Beverage Out post of a ball or pin lock keg and saturating the beer from the bottom over the course of about two days. It seems like a foolproof compromise between control and speed, but the lack of discussion about the method leads me to believe there may be a problem with it. Can someone with more kegging experience could discuss the pros, cons, and potential dangers of this method of force carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3876" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T14:40:16.097" Title="Force carbonation through beverage out line" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|co2|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14554" CreationDate="2015-01-15T14:55:11.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This method operates on the idea that the CO2 will come into contact with more surface area on the way up than it would by just being forced into the headspace and diffusing down.  Similar to the idea behind sloshing the keg which also attempts to expose more surface area of the beer to the CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both this method and the sloshing method technically run the risk of getting beer into your gas line.  This one is particularly worse because as you add pressure to the headspace that pressure is actively trying to force the beer up the tube and into the gas line.  So if you have an imbalance between the pressure you've set your regulator to and the headspace you can pump beer into your regulator and really break it.  There are one-way valves you can get to prevent or at least mitigate this but they're more expensive than standard keg hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had to replace a regulator but I have had to replace a gas line because it had beer in it and I didn't want to risk it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do sometimes hook the CO2 to the beer out post at like 30 PSI, but generally I'll disconnect it as soon as the gurgling begins to die down.  Then I'll purge the headspace a few times and set the PSI to target and fridge the keg.  If I'm antsy I'll leave it at 30 for about 5 minutes while gently rocking the keg...I don't want to risk beer getting into the gas in tube.  Sometimes I'll also fill it with 30 PSI, then disconnect the gas line and shake the keg violently.  Hook it back up and repeat a few times.  Basically I'm paranoid.  But it generally gives me passably carbonated beer when I try it after giving it a day or so to cool down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3597" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T14:55:11.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14554" CreationDate="2015-01-15T15:56:03.430" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience has shown that going through the beer out line doesn't change the rate the beer carbs up. Whether using the 'set and forget' process, or the high PSI and shake method. The bubbles coming out the bottom really aren't increasing the surface ratio enough for it to be significant.  The bubbles just rush up to the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside to the technique is the real danger of beer coming down the gas line.  If your lid loses pressure and the tank is below the keg for some reason if most definitely can happen.  Its happened to me before which is why I have since abandoned the practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T15:56:03.430" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12859" CreationDate="2015-01-15T20:50:01.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what others have said, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_shock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thermal shock&lt;/a&gt; could have played a role as well. If the carboy was warm and your concrete floor significantly colder then the temperature shock could have shattered the glass. Your floor mats will now insulate the glass from the very cold floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T20:50:01.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14554" CreationDate="2015-01-16T10:57:44.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're willing to waste some co2, you should do the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chill keg. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure there's no pressure in keg. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put Beer connector on co2 line.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn on co2.25 psi is good.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connect. Wait for bubbling to stop as co2 enters dip tube and bubbles through to headspace.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Slightly open the relief, so that there is near constant barely audible bubbling.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'd estimate this method takes 20 minutes or so. No rolling. In situ. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will not force beer into the co2 line as long as you always make sure the pressure in the co2 line is higher than in the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: this kind of method will scrub some of the aromatics from your beer. If you're making a beer with significant esters/phenolics or big hop character, it's best avoided. Conversely, if you have a small sulfur problem, this can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10703" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T03:23:19.073" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T03:23:19.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14552" CreationDate="2015-01-16T17:59:36.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I either add aroma hops without a bag like @jards or use cheese cotton cloth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mesh of cheese cloth is very coarse (large holes) compared to the nylon bags I've seen and should let the wort and the hops get to know each other very well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though cheese cloth lets a few hop bits through the cleanup is much easier than leaving the hops free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6132" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T17:59:36.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14561" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-16T18:24:08.757" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having trouble getting a batch of wine off the ground. Its a three gallon batch of Lemon wine and fermentation just wont start. My SG is 1.09, temp is stable at 75, acidity is at 3.0 using those color changing test strips. Using RedStar champagne yeast &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that my acidity is to high for the yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the best ways to lower acidity of my must?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8494" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T14:54:13.793" Title="stuck fermentation/lowering acidity" Tags="|wine|fruit|stuck-fermentation|acidity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14552" CreationDate="2015-01-16T18:42:22.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use bags for all whole hop additions.  I use muslin bags that have a very open weave.  I also account for the theoretical 10% loss when using a bag by using 10% more hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T18:42:22.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-17T16:43:40.877" Score="1" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe my first homebrew is a lost cause. I'm at 3 weeks, and each week I've done a gravity reading and a taste. The flavor has gotten increasingly sour(astringent) with each week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's almost vinegary, but with a citrus twist. It's like eating the pith of an orange peel and it's getting worse with each test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that I likely have some sort of infection: &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/08/12/sour-off-flavors-in-home-brewed-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/08/12/sour-off-flavors-in-home-brewed-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BSG's Bavarian Hef extract kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 x 3.3 lb cans Wheat LME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz German Hallertau hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11.5 g Fermentis WB-06&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one orange peel added to boil (pith fully scraped off)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gravity readings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;week 1 - 1.012&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;week 2 - 1.010&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;week 3 - 1.014&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ku3E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;homebrew2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QWv6t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;homebrew&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9607" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T08:04:46.933" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T08:05:45.110" Title="Fermentation - Lost cause?" Tags="|fermentation|off-flavor|contamination|fermenter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14563" CreationDate="2015-01-17T17:01:18.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sour, astringent and vinegary. Definitely sounds like bacterial contamination (&quot;Infection&quot;). Lactic and acetic acid also both have higher specific gravity than water or alcohol, so that's probably why your gravity went up between weeks two and three. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lost cause? I don't know, can you stand to drink it? If not, it's certainly not going to get any better with time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your sanitation regimen? And what equipment are you using to ferment in? A bit more info could definitely help us to try and pinpoint any potential sources of infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T08:05:45.110" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T08:05:45.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14563" CreationDate="2015-01-17T17:15:20.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be an infection, although there doesn't appear to be anything wrong in the pictures.  Maybe you just don't like the style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T17:15:20.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14568" CreationDate="2015-01-18T11:47:00.653" Score="0" ViewCount="1274" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my kegs have a very brittle rubber handle. Them I realized that I don't know if it is just a rubber piece glued to the keg body or if there is any sort of metal underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is just a rubber piece, what to do to repair/recover it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T17:40:14.587" Title="What's under the keg rubber handles?" Tags="|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14569" CreationDate="2015-01-18T14:51:25.600" Score="0" ViewCount="3307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made bottles of red wine from grape juice kits before with great results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am pretty lazy and if it's possible to avoid cleaning/sterilising/filling/corking 30 bottles on brew day then I would love to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of top-tap King Kegs I use for real ale brewing, along with a couple of cheap bottom-tap barrels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to make decent red wine in kegs rather than bottles?  I assume bottom-tap would be easier as I don't want to carbonate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I watch out for when trying this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T19:36:48.893" Title="Can wine be made in a keg instead of bottles?" Tags="|keg|red-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14566" CreationDate="2015-01-18T17:23:07.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Took a bit of searching around GIS, but as I thought, looks like there's nothing under there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JhcMG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For repair/recover, best option would probably be to clean both sides well with alcohol or Ronsonol, and use something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JB Weld&lt;/a&gt; to 'glue' it back on. Might help to scuff up both sides (maybe with sandpaper) to help it adhere, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since we're talking about the handles which need to bear the whole weight of a full keg though, I would be very careful carrying it around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit -&#xA;More evidence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H8aWG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H8aWG.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oWr2j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oWr2j.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-01-18T17:40:14.587" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T17:40:14.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14567" CreationDate="2015-01-18T18:26:38.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's absolutely possible to do so. The main thing you have to watch out for is oxidation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bottle of wine, once opened, is going to be consumed fast enough for oxidation to not be a problem. A cask/barrel will not (unless you're a true champ at drinking wine). The trick is to introduce an inert atmosphere above the wine as it's dispensed at low enough pressure to not dissolve too much of the gas in the wine. Wineries using this practice during aging employ very-low-pressure nitrogen gas systems (see some examples &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stpats.com/TankAccessories2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). Nitrogen's not really accessible to most homebrewers, so you'd have to make do with a CO2 setup at low pressures to do the same thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With bottom-tap kegs, you could try either running an existing CO2 regulator as low as it can go, or using something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.com/equipment/cask-co2-breather.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cask-breather&lt;/a&gt;, typically used for preventing oxidation when serving cask or real-ale style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the top-tap kegs, you'd have to see how much pressure you need to dispense. If it's too high, you might pick up carbonation in your wine. So this might not be a great option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps out a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T18:26:38.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14567" CreationDate="2015-01-18T19:36:48.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've successfully made wine in corny kegs and had the wine keep for many years. I use Nitrogen to pressurize the keg, which doesn't dissolve into the beer and provides an inert atmosphere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T19:36:48.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-18T20:26:12.833" Score="2" ViewCount="699" Body="&lt;p&gt;Various sources (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/hops/item/1260-practical-porter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/porter-i/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) discuss how excessively low wort pH (for example, from dark specialty grains) can result in a thin beer, even when extract brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been unable to find any source that explains why this happens. My understanding is that body/mouthfeel depends on final gravity (which seems like it's independent of pH, given a starting gravity) and proteins in the beer (such as those introduced by using Carapils). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8090" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T20:01:54.133" Title="Why does overly acidic wort result in thin mouthfeel?" Tags="|chemistry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14577" CreationDate="2015-01-19T20:22:36.860" Score="1" ViewCount="2919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a recipe for a blonde ale that calls for dried rose hips and dried rose buds. I'm having trouble finding these ingredients and am wondering if there are any good substitutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe specifically calls for 1 tsp of rose hips and 1 tbsp of rose buds to be added at 20 min into the boil and at the end of the boil, respectively.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9656" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T19:48:46.110" Title="Rose Hip Substitution" Tags="|recipe|substitution|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12859" CreationDate="2015-01-20T15:46:48.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://betterbottle.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Better Bottle&lt;/a&gt;.  Obviously not the huge open mouth of the Bubbler, but unbreakable, very safe, and sturdy.  Just use some PBW and/or Starsan to easily clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8330" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T15:46:48.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14576" CreationDate="2015-01-20T18:37:06.900" Score="4" ViewCount="5673" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any performance advantage in using bottles with crowns / caps vs. bottles with swing top lids? Are the swing tops more vulnerable to loss of pressure? Any links to quantitative analysis or experiments would be nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10707" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T08:42:25.123" Title="Swing Top VS. Crown / Cap Performance" Tags="|caps|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14575" CreationDate="2015-01-20T19:10:24.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, both work equally well.  Where swing tops fail is repeated reuse of the seal on the swing top.  Those eventually need to be replaced.  They get less pliable with each washing/sanitation cycle.  Can't give a specific cycle # because its multivariable dependent.  Crown caps are one use only and hence the seal isn't an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't help you with quantitative analysis or experiments.  This is entirely based upon first hand experience and the experience of brewing friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We all moved away from swing tops as the seals started failing.  Caps and craft beer bottles were cheaper than maintaining a fleet of flip tops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T19:10:24.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14573" CreationDate="2015-01-20T19:48:46.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Off the top of my head I'd say hibiscus flowers could be easier to find and could add something akin to rose hips, which are described as &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.silive.com/entertainment/dining/index.ssf/2011/06/use_rosehips_from_the_garden_t.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fragrant and floral, citrusy and sour&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. Hibiscus certainly could get you in the ballpark, as it has a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hibiscus_tea&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tart, cranberry-like flavor&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. Maybe throw in some flowery hops like East Kent Goldings to make up the &quot;floral&quot; component of the rose hips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for dried hibiscus in any Latin-American grocery stores or markets near you, where it might be referred to as &quot;jamaica,&quot; which is it's Spanish name I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T19:48:46.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14579" CreationDate="2015-01-20T19:50:43.950" Score="2" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to come up with the most cost effective way to have kegs both force carbonating at 20+ PSI and (other) kegs being served at 10-12 PSI. Obviously, I could buy an entirely separate regulator and CO2 tank, but that can be quite expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far my only other idea has been to attach a manifold to a regulator on a CO2 tank and attach a second regulator to the outlet of that manifold. I'd then attach a second manifold to the second regulator. The first regulator would be run at force carbonation pressures while the second would be run at serving pressures. This all seems a bit Rube Goldberg-esque but I'm curious if anyone's either tried this with success or has a more practical idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8418" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T20:44:20.687" Title="Force Carbonating and Serving Kegs Simulanteously" Tags="|kegging|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14578" CreationDate="2015-01-20T20:39:14.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You definitely don't need a second tank. What you need is something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.compactappliance.com/tap-rite-two-product-dual-pressure-beer-regulator/T752HP.html?cgid=Wine_and_Beverage-Kegerators-Beer_Regulators&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an existing dual-gauge regulator you can just remove the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/kegging/gas-hardware/regulators/cylinder-valve-stem-rht.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cylinder stem&lt;/a&gt; and use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/kegging/gas-hardware/regulators/regulator-coupler-1-4-npt-hex-left-hand-thread.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;nipple&lt;/a&gt; to couple a single-gauge regulator on there. Or if you have a single-gauge regulator you'd just remove the cap nut from where the second (high-pressure) gauge would be and do the same kind of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you have to look out for is the thread directions on these different fittings. Some have all right-threaded parts. Some have a mix of right-and-left threads. Some have all left-threads. Make double sure you're getting the right threads, and also note the threads before taking anything apart, as you may be tightening something you thought you were loosening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to make sure your attaching regulators via the port labeled 'HI' or 'HIGH' on the back so your second regulator is getting full pressure from the tank, not stepped down pressure from the first regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't forget to use a couple wraps of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread_seal_tape&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;teflon tape&lt;/a&gt; when making threaded unions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give you two (or I guess as many as you wanted) regulators drawing from one tank with fully independent pressure control, easy peasy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-01-20T20:44:20.687" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T20:44:20.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14583" CreationDate="2015-01-20T23:52:27.657" Score="3" ViewCount="1531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to start leaving beer and mead in secondary at a location that I may not be able to get to on a regular basis (sometimes not for several weeks) and have a few questions for anyone who might know the answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long will a normal 3-piece or s-shaped airlock remain full of water and &quot;useful&quot; with no supervision.  I know that humidity and temperature will play a factor but does anyone have any experience on how long it has lasted for them before drying up?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aside from setting up a blow off tube into a big jug of water does anyone know of any alternatives to a standard 3-piece or s-shaped airlock that would last a longer time?  Sure the blow off set up will work fine but I'm hoping for something a big more &quot;elegant&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6582" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T08:23:08.173" Title="Airlocks and long term unsupervised fermentation" Tags="|equipment|secondary-fermentation|airlock|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14580" CreationDate="2015-01-21T00:26:56.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a variant on the &quot;blow off into a separate jug&quot; approach, which involves placing your entire fermenter in a water-filled container (a pail or tub)  to provide temperature stabilization and then run the blow off tube down into that water.  Basically getting two functions out of a single tub of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you found a tub with a diameter just slightly larger than the exterior of your fermenter and if you strapped the blow off tube in tight against the fermenter, the whole could be considered a single unit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--- Edit : Another Idea ---&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could modify a standard 3-piece airlock by extending the outer tube with transparent plastic pipe from an aquarium store.  By making the airlock 4-6 inches tall, it could hold more water/vodka/sanitizer which would then take longer to evaporate away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastEditorUserId="8464" LastEditDate="2015-01-21T15:24:28.550" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T15:24:28.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14580" CreationDate="2015-01-21T02:17:25.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think water would remain useful for very long at all. It will stagnate and become fertile ground for lots of little nasties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend filling your airlock with cheap vodka. The alcohol will prevent microbes from growing in the liquid for a long time. As long as your airlock is properly capped, it should be fine for several weeks, and probably several months. The only time I ever had an issue was with an airlock that I (inadvertently) filled with a flavored vodka. After a few months, I'm guessing the alcohol dissipated enough for the flavored sugars to become a Petri dish! :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The S-shaped airlocks have less surface area and therefore are subject to less evaporation. However 3-piece or S-shaped are not ideal during initial fermentation when blowoff is possible. I also wouldn't recommend leaving a brew for several weeks during this phase, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T02:17:25.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14580" CreationDate="2015-01-21T13:14:16.900" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question 1 is hard to answer because its so dependent on the relative humidity and air flow of the room in question. I wouldn't assume an airlock with water would be safe for more than 4 weeks without checking on it or topping it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vodka is sometimes recommended as an airlock liquid, but I think its is a bad idea for long-term storage. Being roughly a 50/50 mix of ethanol and H2O, its going to lose a considerable bit of its volume as the ethanol evaporates. Your airlock is NOT air-tight (despite the name) so this evaporation is not easily preventable. Also, ethanol is a weird form of sugar and can attract some kinds of hardy bacteria. Leave a glass of whiskey out exposed for a few days and you'll notice that SOMETHING from the air is chomping away at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would go with food-grade glycerin&lt;/strong&gt;, sold at pharmacies. It won't evaporate and is harmless if a little gets sucked back into the fermentor if the temps drop (its used to add a little &quot;body&quot; to wine so it might actually improve your beer/mead).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winepress.us/forums/index.php?/topic/27877-what-do-you-fill-your-airlocks-with/page-3&quot;&gt;Here's a good thread on the subject&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T13:14:16.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14594" CreationDate="2015-01-21T13:15:41.840" Score="2" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an imperial stout that seems to have slowed fermentation ~ 1.040. I made a 2L starter w/ Super San Diego yeast on stir plate and pitched it at high krausen.. no decanting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on Mr. Malty's Yeast calculator, I needed 2.75L of starter for an OG 1.10. So I took slurry from my cider (Champagne yeast), created two 2L starters and cold crashing now and will decant this time and pitch both. The amount of yeast at bottom of the starters is very small, less than an inch in an Erlenmeyer flask. Then I got to thinking, is Mr. Malty's calculation of 2.75L of starter including all the liquid or strictly yeast slurry that settles at the bottom? Getting 2.75L of settlement sounds absolutely ridiculous but then again pitching a gallon starter for imperial stouts isn't unrealistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pitching two 2L simply because I don't know how healthy that champagne yeast is... and I've got two stir plates, so why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: A better way of asking is: does Mr. Malty calculator assume you're cold crashing and decanting?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1829" LastEditorUserId="1829" LastEditDate="2015-01-21T14:17:23.900" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T08:05:09.447" Title="Starter quantity w/ Mr. Malty Calculator" Tags="|yeast|high-gravity|pitching|pitching-rate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14580" CreationDate="2015-01-21T16:31:29.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used the normal 3-peice with water for years to make wine and several of the wines I make have to sit in the secondary for 1 1/2 months between racks. I have never lost more that 1/2 of a safe amount of the water and have never had to top it off. But, I keep my wine in a stabile / controlled environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about your environment, you can do what many home brewers (and I imagine even larger brewers) had done for a long time before helpful inventions like the 3-peice or s-style. Run a hose out of the top of your carboy into a glass / pail / drum of your favorite liquid. I am sure you can find something you can fill that will not entirely evaporate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3926" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T16:31:29.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-21T18:47:20.320" Score="4" ViewCount="13603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been attempting to use a ginger bug to make non-alcoholic ginger beer, but I manage to kill the bug each time, either while it is cultivating or after I add it to the ginger syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overview of my process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put cup of distilled water in a jar or glass bowl. Add 2 teaspoons of sugar and two teaspoons of fresh ginger with peel.  Add 2 teaspoons of sugar and 2 teaspoons of ginger at the same time each day, say the evening, and stirring each morning. Stirring may occur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once there is considerable bubbles, make the ginger tea/syrup in a stainless steel pot. Let it cool. I usually use 2 quarts of distilled water, 1 and 1/2 cup of white sugar, and a lot of chopped/grated ginger, like at least &quot;4 inches&quot;, usually close to double that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once cooled, filter into a larger stainless steel pot. Add another 2 quarts of distilled water, and then filter the active bug into the same pot. Add strained juice of two lemons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stir, then immediately bottle the contents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No carbonation 2 weeks or even 2 months later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question simply is: what can &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; kill the ginger bug? Some things I've read/thought about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does contact with stainless steel or other metal kill it? Including the strainer, spoons, pots.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does using distilled water instead of filtered water affect it? Does the chlorine from tap water affect the bug?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've seen so many different recommendations for the type of sugar used, from white sugar to unrefined sugar to rapadura, does any of that make a difference?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I live in a cold climate this time of year, does that matter? It seems to start OK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can too much sugar kill it, in the same way that sugar often helps canned preserves avoid botulism?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stirring is meant to agitate a bug while cultivating it, but at some point does it hinder instead of help?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the amount of water used to start the bug matter?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10717" LastActivityDate="2020-09-26T17:05:55.897" Title="What might kill a ginger bug - fact and fiction?" Tags="|fermentation|carbonation|ginger|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14591" CreationDate="2015-01-21T21:47:54.493" Score="2" ViewCount="1791" Body="&lt;p&gt;A recent batch of grain-brewed ordinary bitter had a pronounced chlorine or TCP flavour. I used the same water treatment that usually works - boil, campden tablets, stand overnight. The recipe was straightforward, pale and crystal malts, columbus, brmling cross and citra hops and wyeast ale yeast. Fermented 8 days then racked into cask. After 2 weeks in the cask it was flat, cloudy and chemical tasting. I don't use chlorine sanitiser. Any thoughts on the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8076" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T18:30:56.677" Title="What might be causing a chlorine taste?" Tags="|all-grain|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14586" CreationDate="2015-01-22T02:49:12.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first impression is, since ginger grows in the ground, these bugs are used to have a lot of minerals around, but they are now forced to live on distilled water and (refined?) sugar. So the first thing I would try is to replace the distilled water with used boiled tap water (or other ground water if you can get something clean). Other points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One of the benefits of stainless is that it kills bacteria by releasing chromium in the presence of acids. While the juice from a couple lemons will do a great job cleaning a stainless pot, I don't know how the rest of the material is affecting the pH. (Do you bugs produce acid in their normal metabolism?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chlorine is there to kill bugs. That's the only reason it's there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;According to wikipedia, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panela&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;unrefined sugars&lt;/a&gt; contain protein, fats and minerals, so maybe its a great way to keep the bugs happy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Temperature absolutely matters. I fact your culture should contain a mixture of bugs, and the temperature will affect which ones grow and which ones go dormant, and thus probably have a huge influence on the taste of the product. Just like we do for beer, keep it at the same temperature that the recipe was developed for.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It can kill/inhibit yeast, so technically yes. But I think anything in the range of fruit juice (~10%) would be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shaking that results in foam can be bad for bacteria, but your bugs probably like oxygen. Stir often, but gently.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some microorganisms like to have a bunch of their friends around. For example, for optimal yeast growth we avoid dilutions of more than 10:1; the yeast cooperate by making &quot;growth factors&quot; for each other. Many bacteria do this too, so it might be smart keep the initial volume low and diluted slowly. OTOH, if the traditional recipe says something else, do that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T02:49:12.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12859" CreationDate="2015-01-22T14:13:29.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently received a big mouth bubbler for Christmas and when I went to clean it after fermentation the bubbler shattered in my hands. Luckily I didn't get to cut.  I contacted Midwest supply they stated they were had a new manufacturer for the product and would send me out a new big mouth bubbler. I just received it I have not used it yet but it is obviously of much thicker glass. Midwest supply was extremely helpful apologetic and delivered the new car boy within a few days.  obviously one has to be much more careful handling any glass object as opposed to plastic but I think the concept is a great one. I hated cleaning the traditional carboys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10725" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T14:13:29.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14587" CreationDate="2015-01-22T15:10:23.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My best guess is that your water, while standing overnight, contracted some sort of wild bacteria or yeast. In the future I'd purchase 5 gallon jugs of water at your local grocery store, and use those to brew. I've never had a problem. When I brewed with tap water (my first 2 batches), I did notice a bit of a chlorinated taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, your cask may have infected it. How have you cleaned the cask? Acid wash is typically a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8116" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T15:10:23.210" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14587" CreationDate="2015-01-22T18:30:56.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like it could be chlorophenols (typically perceived as plasticky / band-aids / medicinal / chemical flavors). If you're not using Chlorine-based sanitizers, this may have been caused by a wild yeast or bacterial infection. The fact that you also noted flocculation (cloudy) and carbonation issues is generally in line with the notion of an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do some further testing to attempt to narrow down the cause or point at which the infection was introduced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forced wort test: Prepare a small, sanitized sample jar and transfer some of your unfermented wort into it but don't pitch any yeast. If the same off-flavors show up in this sample, it'd indicate that you have something wrong in your mashing / boiling / cooling process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle some of the fermented beer at the same point you'd transfer to your cask and compare to the casked beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your plastic lines used for transferring between vessels / fermentors / casks are old, you may want to simply replace them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, what type of cask are you using and how are you sanitizing it? Typically a combination of a caustic or PBW first with a sanitizer second is more effective than a single one-step product. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/breweries/homebrewing/products/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/breweries/homebrewing/products/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10726" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T18:30:56.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14593" CreationDate="2015-01-23T04:01:35.627" Score="1" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;my first home brew, be gentle.  golden malt, Rye malt ale started at 1.052, and I just racked it @ 1.022 and dry hopped it per the recipe.  did I rack to secondary fermentation too early? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10728" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T04:25:46.740" Title="did I rack to secondary fermentation too early?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|ale|rye|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14592" CreationDate="2015-01-23T04:25:46.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically people rack to secondary once most signs of active fermentation are done in the primary fermenter. 1.022 seems too high for primary to be completely done, but it's impossible to say without knowing what the gravity was the day before and after that, how many days it's been fermenting, what the activity level is in the fermenter, etc. But you might just have wort high in unfermentable sugars. Knowing the gravity at one single point in process only really helps if you're very familiar with the fermentability of your wort (as in, you know how low it's going to get). But there's no real harm to racking early, except maybe that it defeats the benefits for clarification you'd typically see if you waited for primary to finish first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry-hopping at this point shouldn't give you any problems. Strictly speaking you want to wait until after vigorous fermentation so that the huge amount of CO2 generated isn't stripping hop aroma compounds out of the beer. But even if fermentation is still trailing off, you'll be absolutely fine here. You'll still get plenty of hop aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T04:25:46.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14584" CreationDate="2015-01-23T08:05:09.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try the tab that says &quot;repitching from slurry&quot; and it will show the volume of (packed) yeast that calculated. It will be much less than the volume shown on the first tab, which seems to be the 2.75L you referred to above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T08:05:09.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-23T14:53:26.270" Score="6" ViewCount="3415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Brew In a Bag and do no-chill, space and time are limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bought some kegging equipment and while looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1708005089/picobrew-zymatic-the-automatic-beer-brewing-applia?ref=nav_search&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;pico brew&quot;&gt;Pico Brew&lt;/a&gt; project I noticed that one option in using their equipment is to dispense directly from the keg used from brewing and fermenting (step 6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure I could save a lot of time in my own process by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Transfering my hot wort directly from the boil kettle to the keg, using the keg itself as my 'no chill' container&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fermenting in the keg letting the air come out from one of the valves (I do not need to see bubbles, but I guess I'll need to find a way to depress the ball locks so the air comes out)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Force carbonating directly on that keg after fermentation&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chilling and dispensing, dumping the first few pints of yeast/slurry. My loss may even diminish!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One single vessel, no transfers, no need to sanitize anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside I see is the possibility of having the keg lines clogged with yeast and some extra work cleaning the krausen formed during fermentation after the keg is empty (dried out and likely stuck, a good soak in PBW should take care of it?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone has any experience on this?&#xA;Any other downsides I have not identified?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T13:09:18.917" Title="Fermenting, carbonating and dispensing using the same (corny) keg?" Tags="|fermentation|kegging|process|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14595" CreationDate="2015-01-23T15:01:46.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hop residue will be a problem. Even if you use pellet hops, you will get clogs in the dip tube or valves when trying to purge the trub from the bottom of the keg. I know this from a disastrous keg-hopping experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to exclude hops when transferring the hot wort to the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T15:01:46.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14595" CreationDate="2015-01-23T18:38:01.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleber, I'm trying things very close to what you're thinking. I'm no chilling, fermenting, and serving on kegs. But I think an extra keg could be a good thing. If you have one, I think it is useful to transfer from the no-chill to the fermentor to aerate your wort. I'm doing this over pressure to ensure air contact. Otherwise you can aerate another way and stay with just one keg. After fermenting I think it is useful to transfer to another keg to make easier to clean the krausen and to let the yeast/trub away. Tobias's advice is very nice, and my protocol to avoid clogging is a good whirpool, waiting a longer time than I was used to wait when using chiller to ensure the thing really settle down. After that I transfer to the kegs, wait the temperature drops, transfer to another keg removing the first ounces to let the break material out, ferment, transfer to the first keg, and drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T18:38:01.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14678" CreationDate="2015-01-24T06:34:59.900" Score="1" ViewCount="911" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rephrasing my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see three separate ways of calculating the final ppm of various minerals in the end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I begin with 9 gallons of DH20. After the mash, I lost 1.5 gallons and end up with 7.5 gallons in the boil kettle. After boiling, I lose 1.5 gallons to evaporation and end up with 6 gallons of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's pretend I'm aiming for 200ppm of Sulphate. CaSO4 gives 61.5ppm of Ca and 147.4ppm of SO4 for one gram in one water. Therefore, 1.36g/gallon of CaSO4 will result in ~200ppm of SO4 and ~84ppm Ca (200/147.4ppm = ~1.36g CaSO4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I multiply 1.36g by 9 gallons of water - my total starting water? &lt;strong&gt;This assumes both that I lost 1.36g*1.5gal to the mash and also 1.36g*1.5gal to evaporation.&lt;/strong&gt; (Obviously salts don't boil off so this is incorrect)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I multiple 1.36g by 7.5 gallons of water - my starting water less that which I lost to the mash? &lt;strong&gt;This assumes that by losing 1.5 gallons of water to the mash, I am also losing 1.36g*1.5gal&lt;/strong&gt;, leaving me with 1.36g*6gal CaSO4/gal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I multiply 1.36g by 6 gallons of water - my starting water less that which I lost to the mash less that which I lost to evaporation? &lt;strong&gt;This assumes that the 1.5gal I lost to the mash did not also lose the 1.36g*1.5gal CaSO4&lt;/strong&gt;, leaving me with 1.36g*6gal CaSO4/gal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm reading Brewing Better Beer and Gordon Strong states &quot;Homebrewers should be aware that you don't have to put all the salts in the mash, and that not all salts in the mash carry over to the kettle.&quot; He doesn't however make explicit that which I am asking -- namely if I lose X gallons in the mash do I precisely lose the ratio of salt to X gallons as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T02:06:45.933" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T22:42:00.570" Title="Water mineral additions, losses to mash, and evaporation in the kettle. I.e., does water lost to the mash result in a proportionate loss of ions?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14599" CreationDate="2015-01-24T17:06:47.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;AIUI, none of the minerals will boil off, so they will be concentrated by the boil, and you should factor that into your computations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe you need to take the mash-captured volume into account in any particular way.  If you're treating the mash liquor, then you want that liquor to have a particular profile uniformly. I don't believe that mash-captured liquor has any more or less of the ions, compared to the mash runnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T17:06:47.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2015-01-24T20:57:04.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing new. Distilled mead is called &quot;mead balsam&quot;, at least in Lithuania, where &quot;midus&quot; (mead) was an ancient drink, later one factory tried to distill it. Please google for such drinks as &quot;Suktinis&quot; or &quot;Zalgiris&quot; (which is 75% strong)...Also see midus.lt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my personal opinion, mead (real matured mead, and the best mead shall be matured at least for 10 years, Lithuanian nobility used to drink mead matured over 50 years) is a too good drink to distill. But I myself tried two times - after some failures making mead itself - the result was really good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10739" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T20:57:04.883" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-01-24T20:57:04.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-25T18:10:18.963" Score="1" ViewCount="751" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have loads of apples in the garden and every year I make experimental 1-gallon batches of cider and apple wine (cider plus extra sugar).  This year I tried to make a cider that wasn't ultra-dry, by using a specific cider yeast (that included a &quot;sweetener&quot;).  After that batch was complete I used the yeasty lees to make future batches, then split them into two separate gallons and topped up with fresh apple juice etc etc.  Some I added sugar to by pouring into a pan, warming it on the stove, dissolving the sugar and pouring it back into the demijohn. Appalling record-keeping - i.e. none. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However after all this one (just one) batch of apple wine turned out like a nice sherry. It was/is really good and my mum loves it. I'd call it a medium sherry - she says its a cream style. You'd never guess it was apple-based. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted to make some more sherry next year - what is the key to making it again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10701" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T21:54:53.190" Title="How did I manage to make apple sherry?" Tags="|techniques|cider|wine|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14603" CreationDate="2015-01-25T21:20:56.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention specifics of sanitation in your description above, but you do mention the &quot;warming&quot; of some of the raw juice to desolve extra sugar.  This implies that the rest of your raw juice was not warmed.  Was all of the raw juice ever boiled to remove the natural yeast and other fawna from the skins?  If not, your medium sherry might be the result of a wild yeast overwhelming the store bought yeasts which fermented the rest of your batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that some cider makers rely on those natural yeasts as their primary fermenting agents, which always sounded risky to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible explanation involves temperature.  Assuming that you kept all of your bottles together during their fermentation, was the sherry bottle closer to a heat source than the others.  Extra heat can allow the yeast to breed faster, producing a dryer end result than the same ingredients and time would produce in a cooler environment.  That extra heat might have come from the bottle being close to an external heat source or by its being surrounded (and therefore insulated) by the other fermenting bottles in close proximity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T21:20:56.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14610" CreationDate="2015-01-26T11:59:24.033" Score="6" ViewCount="6700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using rubber bungs (with airlock) for my 5l glass carboys, I just got the carboys so it's my first time fermenting in them. I have a problem that rubber bung keep getting out because of the CO2 pressure from the fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I keep the bung inside? Are silicon bungs better for this stuff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6176" LastEditorUserId="6176" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T13:35:30.257" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T20:51:38.803" Title="Rubber bung keeps getting out" Tags="|fermentation|carboy|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14605" CreationDate="2015-01-26T14:33:37.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have these bungs:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YFJik.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soft-ish rubber bung on the left, stiff plasticky rubber in the middle and soft silicone on the right. Silicone seems to be the least slippery when wet, but the soft rubber works OK. The one in the middle, OTOH will come out if you look at it funny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bung should require some effort to remove. If so, then make sure you don't some kind of blockage. Or reduce the depth of water so there's less pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T14:33:37.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14605" CreationDate="2015-01-26T14:41:10.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stopper does not need to be fully &quot;inside&quot; the neck of the carboy. It simply needs to rest naturally in the neck, and its own weight should hold it in place. Any CO2 should easily be relieved through the hole and through the airlock or blow-off tube; there should not be enough pressure to move the stopper at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T14:41:10.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14605" CreationDate="2015-01-26T15:03:14.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good 'ol fashioned weight works for me ;-) My bung for my blowoff hose kept popping out, so I just stuck this book on it. I know you're talking about an airlock, but just thought I'd share what my fermenter looks like right now. Also, are you doing blowoff at all? I usually do blowoff and then switch to an airlock after the fermentation dies down a bit. I'm thinking that after initial fermentation there may not be excessive pressure on your airlock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sg6IE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Carboy with book weight&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, that's a t-shirt around the carboy to keep the sunlight out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8339" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T15:03:14.570" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9871" CreationDate="2015-01-26T16:10:36.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey thanks for sharing your problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been having the same issue with my corny keg and I am trawling through all the forums to get a solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have learned that carbonating and serving my poor poor beer at 3 bar (45 Psi) is way way waaaaay to high. I disconnected the CO2 gas and vented the keg yesterday several times over a few hours to remove all the excess carbonation. Tonight I will vent it again, connect the CO2 at 10 Psi and hope for the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This discussion has been the best I have found on the topic so far. But the final result has not been posted which I assume that means it was solved ;) . It would be nice to hear from you Chow if this was a success. Cheers mate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will post my findings here tonight if it works. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bren&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10743" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T16:10:36.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14605" CreationDate="2015-01-26T16:21:54.130" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Duct tape....I've done it more than once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T16:21:54.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14612" CreationDate="2015-01-26T17:57:27.810" Score="1" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fermenting an ESB at 20C for 8 days. Target FG was 1.017 according to my recipe.&#xA;FG on 6th day was 1.013 ,7th and 8th day is 1.012 .I am not conserned about this difference as that i still have bubbles in my airlock.Should i leave it a few more days or cold crash now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10744" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T18:29:50.400" Title="Fermentation not over?Cold crash or not?" Tags="|fermentation|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14611" CreationDate="2015-01-26T18:29:50.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the fermentation is complete, as the specific gravity has essentially stabilized. However, I'd leave it at 20C for another week at least to let the yeast clean up before cold-crashing. This is called the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-2-3.html&quot;&gt;conditioning phase&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, and can greatly improved the beer's flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T18:29:50.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14571" CreationDate="2015-01-26T19:15:10.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came up with a few things that &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; explain it. I don't think the changes wrought will necessarily result in a &quot;thin&quot; beer, but it's hard to say &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what thin means anyway, so here goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low wort pH, though not the most important factor in final beer pH, does have an effect. So a more acidic wort should produce a slightly more acidic beer, all other things being equal. Does acidity = thin? Not really sure, but it will definitely affect the mouthfeel somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lower wort pH leads to a lower utilization of hops in the kettle, especially with regards to bitterness. If you have a utilization number you're used to on your system and you throw in a wort at a lower pH, you may end up with a beer that has less bitterness than you'd normally expect. Would it taste &lt;em&gt;thin&lt;/em&gt;? Again, not sure...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low wort pH also reduces the ability of the beer to clarify properly in the kettle (to form hot break that will settle out effectively). This could lead to differences in fermentation triggered by presence of excess trub in the fermenter and also possibly to excess polyphenols (which &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/indices/item/305-brewing-science-understanding-polyphenols&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;taste astringent&lt;/a&gt;) that would otherwise have left the wort as hot-break. About kettle clarification, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbaa.com/publications/tq/tqPastIssues/2001/Abstracts/tq01ab01.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Charlie Bamforth says&lt;/a&gt; &quot;[w]orts below pH 4.5 completely fail to fine, and a pH of 5.0 is needed for effecient settling&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the first point above, if you carry over a bunch of excess trub to the fermenter, the idea is that it provides nucleation sites for CO2 in the fermenting beer to come out of solution. CO2 has an inhibitory effect on yeast, so more trub (and therefore less CO2 in solution) should stimulate higher rates of yeast growth and metabolism. Factors which favor higher rates of yeast growth tend to lead to both lower finished beer pH and lower levels of esters, which could make for a less full-tasting beer. I feel like I've definitely heard people before suggest the link between rapid fermentation and thin tasting beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, lower wort pH at pitching can change the fermentation flavor profile the yeast will produce. It has been shown to lower the formation of DMS during fermentation, which in small quantities can add a distinctive body to some beers. The lower pH also aids in more rapid diacetyl reduction to flavor-neutral compounds. This could be important to the perceived body, particularly in British-style ales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, a lot of this is a bit of a stretch, I know. But I have to say I had fun looking around trying to find effects of wort pH that didn't involve mashing/enzymes. Hope some of it tickles your fancy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T19:15:10.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="782" CreationDate="2015-01-26T20:20:36.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saved and cleaned my Belgian style bottles and corked a Belgian Strong Ale last year.  I steamed the corks for 10 minutes to sanitize and because it made them much easier to insert in the bottles. I learned this technique from an experienced wine maker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10745" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T20:20:36.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14605" CreationDate="2015-01-26T20:49:34.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried Carboy Caps? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/3-5-6-gall-carboy-cap-orange.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/3-5-6-gall-carboy-cap-orange.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had the same problem and switched to the caps and find they work Great &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10746" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T20:49:34.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14605" CreationDate="2015-01-26T21:44:41.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's also important to note: 5 gallon carboys usually use #7 bungs and 6 gallons use #6.5. The main risk here is that you'll sink the bung into the carboy if it's too small, but I imagine if it was too big you might have difficulty getting it to stay in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I find it works best to fully insert the airlock in the bung, then insert the bung in the carboy, but again, this is mostly to prevent sinking the bung, but it will also increase the size of the bung a bit, over only having the airlock partially in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T21:44:41.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-23T16:38:10.183" Score="1" ViewCount="792" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to understand how to calculate how much priming wort I need to add at the bottling stage to reach a desired carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Desired Carbonation: 6 g/l&#xA;Extract: 17°P&#xA;Amount of fermented beer: 17 l&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I will fill at 22°C so I have 1.6 g/l.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I require 6 g/l so I need to add 4.4 g/l carbon dioxide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sugar(extract) is split 50% alcohol and 50% carbon dioxide so I need to add 8.8 g/l of extract.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My wart is 17°P which is 170 g/l so…&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working backwards with a guess I can see that I need to add approximately 0.9L but I would like to know how to perform the final calculation to get the precise amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10742" OwnerDisplayName="Onato" LastEditorUserId="10742" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T15:54:31.363" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T17:45:53.540" Title="How to Calculate Required Priming Wort at Bottling Time?" Tags="|brewing|bottling|carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14617" CreationDate="2015-01-24T08:50:50.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your wort is 17°P, then it's 170 g per Liter. °P are approximately the same as % sugar, and I think you can finish the math.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW your added sugar 8.8g/L is in the right range for a highly carbonated beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came up with about 1 liter of wort (for a 20L batch) assuming the wort should be diluted about 19.3:1 for correct carbonation, but that isn't really right:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the added wort did ferment all the way to zero, your beer would be effectively diluted about 5%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The added wort &lt;strong&gt;won't&lt;/strong&gt; ferment all the way to zero, so you'll be slightly under carbonated according to the above math. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of that is a really big deal for a homebrewer, we all adjustments based on experience anyway. But if it bothers you, the easy way to avoid those issues is to use a 100% fermentable sugar, and dissolve it in a small volume of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" OwnerDisplayName="Pepi" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T16:16:12.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14617" CreationDate="2015-01-26T13:55:10.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sort of question might be better suited for &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrew.stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;http://homebrew.stackexchange.com&lt;/a&gt;, they should be able to put a few more knowledgable eyes on your question if you haven't asked there already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I like the priming sugar calculator at Northern Brewer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&lt;/a&gt; because it gives amounts of lots of sugars beyond just corn sugar, like treacle or maple syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3597" OwnerDisplayName="Sloloem" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T13:55:10.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14626" CreationDate="2015-01-27T03:42:20.223" Score="0" ViewCount="599" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my mash temp, by the recipe, was 149 F. I missed it by a few degrees, at 144 F. Can I just let it sit longer, or would I have to find a way to increase the temp? This was in a Rubbermaid cooler MLT, so the only way to increase the temp would be to add more, hotter water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T15:33:55.663" Title="Missed mash temp" Tags="|all-grain|mash-tun|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14620" CreationDate="2015-01-27T08:50:16.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;144 is at the low end of the saccharification range, so you've still got conversion. You might have a little less dextrin, and a little more fermentables than the recipe intended, but if you're using US/CA/AU 2 row, you've probably have so much enzyme in there that 144 or 149 will give same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T08:50:16.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-27T13:01:15.400" Score="2" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed an imperial stout partial mash kit and racked to secondary.  The kit calls for 3 1/2 months in the secondary fermenter.  Will there be enough viable yeast left at the end of secondary for bottle conditioning or will I have to add some fresh yeast?  If I have to add yeast before bottling, any suggestions?  I was thinking of using Danstar cbc-1-cask-and-bottle-conditioned-beer-yeast.  I don't want to over-carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10748" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T13:59:53.000" Title="Adding yeast at the end of a long fermentation" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14622" CreationDate="2015-01-27T13:59:53.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definitely repitch fresh yeast when priming an Imp. stout. I've never used the Danstar stuff, but it seems like it has the chops to handle a high-alcohol brew so I'd say give it a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your Imp. Stout is in the 9%+ category and it's been aging for ~4 months, most of the yeast in there won't be too happy. Some will definitely survive, but it won't be in good shape physiologically. This will make accurate carbonation difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your beer's really strong, you might get an extra bit of carbonation if you pitch fresh yeast, because there could be residual fermentables from primary that the first yeast crapped out on due to alcohol inhibition. Fresh yeast may ferment this down before giving up again. This very much depends, of course, on %ABV and primary yeast strain, so not sure you'll run into this issue. You could easily take a small sample and pitch some fresh yeast on it though, and see if it does any extra fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T13:59:53.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-27T14:10:41.067" Score="1" ViewCount="4230" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current brew is a hard ginger beer, calling for a pound of grated ginger in my 3 gallon primary.  Fermentation is slowing and unfortunately a lot of that ginger remains unsettled--the bottom 3&quot; of the fermenter is a very loose mix of the ginger,  beer, and trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes time to rack the beer I'll need to strain out the ginger, but unlike the usual trub I'll need a different technique to getting most of the beer our without bringing along all the grated ginger.  Since the ginger isn't compacted to the bottom of the fermenter it's much easier to stir up and is mixed with about 20% of the overall batch--so just keeping the cane above the sediment won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a tool or technique that I can use which will let me rack the beer over and leave all the sediment behind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T15:02:32.040" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T13:26:47.327" Title="How can I filter out a large amount of loose sediment from my primary?" Tags="|racking|filtering|ginger-beer|sediment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14624" CreationDate="2015-01-27T15:06:53.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about some cheesecloth or butter-muslin tied around the end of your racking cane that will go in the primary? You could easily sanitize it by boiling or soaking in your choice of no-rinse sanitizer. Using some similar filter on the other end of the racking tube could work too, but I'd be worried about oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably rack the clear beer off first, then plunge the cane into the sediment to get what's left in there. If the ginger's not grated too fine and there isn't too much trub in there I would think you could get a good deal of beer out while leaving most of the undesirables behind. If it gets too jammed, just shake it around a bit and that should free it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately if you can wait a bit longer in primary it should settle out better. I hear &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/88/if-when-to-move-to-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;racking is overrated&lt;/a&gt;, anyway..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T15:06:53.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14620" CreationDate="2015-01-27T15:33:55.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could do either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you leave it at 144, you should definitely let it sit longer. Even a difference of 5 degrees F. can make a significant impact on how long it takes starch to break down (it could take twice as long, or more). It will definitely still convert at 144, and will give you a more fermentable wort (and the resulting beer will be drier). Look for clear wort vs. cloudy wort as a good indication of starch conversion. Or, ideally, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Iodine_test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;test a sample with iodine&lt;/a&gt; to confirm starch breakdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I worry getting much below 145 though because then you're pushing the limits on dipping below the &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewtechniques.com/mashing/starch-gelatinisation-home-brewers-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gelatinization point of barley starches&lt;/a&gt;. If the starches don't gelatinize, the enzymes can't reach them and then you have real problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose to adjust the heat, adding boiling water to a mash is perfectly acceptable, in fact I'd guess we've all done it at some point. This would get you within spec for the recipe and also speed up conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T15:33:55.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14599" CreationDate="2015-01-27T18:54:43.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people put salts in pre-mash, &lt;em&gt;according to the quantity of the final volume&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;So if you were brewing a 6 gallon batch, you'd calculate your salts based on 6 gallons&lt;/strong&gt;, even though pre-mash you may have 9 or 10 gallons, and pre-boil you may have 7.5 gallons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T15:17:07.280" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T15:17:07.280" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14631" CreationDate="2015-01-27T19:09:54.213" Score="0" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;changing the yeast is the easiest way to experiment with a recipe. I have my first brew about a week away from bottling.  so what's next?  there are a ton of websites out there, and I could use a good short list of websites about yeasts, and the flavors they impart.  I think i want to run the same recipe again but with a different yeast.  what websites are the best to trust ?  or feel free to recommend a yeast yourself ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's a rye pale ale kit recipe with (brewer's best Rye Pale Ale):&#xA;3.3 lb Rye LME&#xA;3.3 lb Pilsen LME&#xA;grains (steeped at start of wort)&#xA;8 oz. Honey malt&#xA;4 oz. Munich&#xA;2 oz. Vienna&#xA;hops&#xA;1 oz Columbus&#xA;1 oz Citra&#xA;2 oz Cascade&#xA;Yeast &#xA;1 Sachet &amp;lt;&amp;lt; i want to try changing this first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation takes place @ ~ 75 degree Fahrenheit (high end, I know) and the air is very dry.  so lager yeast is out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10728" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T19:39:23.793" Title="websites that describe yeast flavors?" Tags="|yeast|recipe|ale|rye|pale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14605" CreationDate="2015-01-27T19:35:52.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let the sanitized bung dry (preferably away from dust) before inserting. It fits more snuggly that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I've also reused cork cages from Belgian beers with good results. Just extend out the bottom so it fits all the way around the carboy neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6700" LastEditorUserId="6700" LastEditDate="2015-03-07T20:03:45.697" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T20:03:45.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14628" CreationDate="2015-01-27T19:38:30.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At least here in the US, the dominant yeast suppliers are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew/listings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs&lt;/a&gt;. Since you're talking about the differences of switching between strains of yeast I'd say it'll be most beneficial to consult the lab whose yeast you're getting. They'll give you tons of strain-specific info about flavor production, optimum temperatures, pitch rates, all that good stuff, derived from laboratory fermentations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're getting yeast not from a lab, it's less likely it'll be pure, so strain-specific information might be less useful. Not saying you shouldn't seek alternate means of yeast procurement, though, just that you might have to dig deeper to find 1. if it's a pure strain and 2. the brewing caliber of that strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, if/when you introduce temperature control to your fermentation apparatus, you can get tons of interesting flavors out of just one yeast strain. Wort composition, pitching rate, oxygenation, pitching and fermentation temperature, etc., all can be manipulated to coax vastly different characters from a single, pure strain of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T19:38:30.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14628" CreationDate="2015-01-27T19:39:23.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would actually encourage you to HOLD UP on changing the yeast. First of all, you didn't indicate what yeast you actually used. I'm assuming its a neutral ale yeast (US-05, Nottingham, Muntons, etc) because you really don't want a ton of yeast flavor in a Rye Pale Ale. That style highlights the weird spicy flavor of the rye along with a nice hop wallop, and adding in a strong yeast flavor component is very likely to clash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a style you know you already enjoy (based on commercial examples) then I would actually recommend that you change the HOPS instead, specifically the ones in the last 10min or so of the boil. You're more likely to see a favorable (or at least neutral) change in the flavor/aroma from playing with the hops than with the yeast, imho.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, if you are dead-set on changing the yeast, then the manufacturer's websites themselves are a fine place to start your research. And google for homebrewers comments on specific strains when you narrow your focus down. Sometimes the homebrewing community disagrees with a yeast banks assessment of the flavor and optimum temperature for their products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/brewing/homebrewing/product-range/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fermentis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T19:39:23.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14605" CreationDate="2015-01-27T20:05:59.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wrap the top of the carboy and bung with some aluminum foil.  This should add just enough pressure to hold it in place until it dries.  Plastic wrap may do the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10752" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T20:05:59.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14595" CreationDate="2015-01-27T20:27:19.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would give it a try.  I have done this with a Sanke keg several times.  Couple thoughts:&#xA;- If it is an old Pepsi corny, you may be able to unscrew the pressure relief valve, remove, use an air lock or blow off tube.&#xA;- Once activity has slowed, (Like only a few points above terminal gravity) replace the pressure relief valve and let it naturally carbonate. As mentioned above, you might look into a spunding valve.&#xA;- You can also cut maybe a half inch off you dip tube in order to leave yeast and trub behind.  I would try it once before cutting though.  I was surprised when using the Sanke how little yeast I actually sucked up.  Only maybe one pint before it was clear enough to drink.&#xA;- A good whirlpool with a nice long rest is a must to leave hop material behind in the brew kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10753" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T20:27:19.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14624" CreationDate="2015-01-27T22:23:21.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The following is pure imagineering.  I have never been in the situation you are describing, but thinking about hard ginger-beer, I may have to change that pretty soon.  Take this with a grain of salt and other members, please pipe in if necessary.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the quantity of suspended particles which you are talking about, you might have better luck pouring the last of your primary's contents down through some cheese cloth rather than trying to siphon up through a cheese cloth filter.  I can just imagine that a filtered siphon would get clogged almost constantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rack off as much clear beer as you can, directly into your secondary.  Then take a sterile pot or big mouthed container and cover the opening with several layers of almost taught sterilized cheese cloth (with paper coffee filters between each layer).  Duct tape the cheese cloth in place around the edges because all that ginger pulp will be heavy enough to move it otherwise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then carefully tip your 3 gallon primary, pouring the remainder of your &quot;dirty&quot; ginger beer through the cheese cloth filter and into the sterile container below.  If you don't already have a fitted harness, you may want to duct tape some towels to your carboy to make it easier to hold onto during the tipping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If even this bigger filter gets clogged with all the pulp, use a spoon to clear it away, then continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have filtered all of your primary, add the cleaned contents of the container to your secondary and continue with your conditioning process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T22:23:21.637" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14636" CreationDate="2015-01-27T23:16:42.360" Score="5" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;recent homebrewer and even more recent SE member.  Hoping for a little advice...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been searching and searching for a ginger beer with a strong, warm burn.  I had some in Canada and have been unable to find anything close since, so I decided to try and brew my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen some recipes that add jalapeno or other peppers, but that seems like cheating!  Is there a better way to increase the &quot;burn&quot;?  I'm not looking for the quick citrus bite- I want the one that comes up 15s later and grabs you by the throat!  Is there a technique?  Does it come down to finding &quot;hot&quot; ginger?  Or is the &quot;float the peppers&quot; method the way to go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, the recipe I'm about to try uses champange yeast (appeals to me b/c I don't want a sugary sweet GB) and adds a few slices of jalapeno to give it the burn (which, as I said, seems like cheating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10754" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T13:35:35.943" Title="Looking for a WARM ginger beer" Tags="|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14635" CreationDate="2015-01-28T00:56:43.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't say for sure, as I've never made ginger beer per se, but I have used it &lt;em&gt;in&lt;/em&gt; beer before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Wikipedia, the main chemical component of fresh ginger's pungency is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gingerol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gingerol&lt;/a&gt;, which, when pure, actually scores 60,000 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scoville_scale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scoville Heat Units&lt;/a&gt;. On drying or cooking, part of the gingerol becomes &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shogaol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shogaol&lt;/a&gt;, which is more than twice as hot (rating 160,000 SHUs). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want alot of heat/bite, you'd probably want to cook the ginger for as long as is feasible with your recipe. Also (if you want to avoid ginger powder, which should definitely give you more heat) you could grate and dehydrate the fresh ginger yourself to increase the heat (dry in a low oven, probably) before brewing with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe mature ginger roots have more pungency than do young ones, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, here's an article about &lt;a href=&quot;https://cooking.stackexchange.com/questions/16389/how-can-i-maximize-ginger-extraction&quot;&gt;maximizing flavor extraction from ginger&lt;/a&gt;, just for extra kicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=bKVCtH4AjwgC&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;dq=on%20food%20and%20cooking&amp;amp;pg=PA426#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=on%20food%20and%20cooking&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;According to Harold McGee&lt;/a&gt;, cooking the ginger will decrease the pungency, while drying will increase it. No mention of the effects of cooking the ginger &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; drying it, so you might have to do some experimentation to determine whether you should cook the dried ginger while brewing, or if you should add it on the cold side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:33:38.137" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T22:05:50.960" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14635" CreationDate="2015-01-28T01:15:44.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a steamer, put shredded ginger root in the secondary.  I used about a pound, it came out pretty strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T01:15:44.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14580" CreationDate="2015-01-28T08:23:08.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use clingwrap, secured by a heavy duty rubber band. I punch two pin holes in the wrap to ensure excess CO2 can escape. Not very elegant, but very effective!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T08:23:08.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14575" CreationDate="2015-01-28T08:42:25.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used swing tops for over 10 years. In that time I may have had, at the very most, 10 failures. As brewchez states, swing top seal integrity is paramount. Replacement seals are readily available, and &quot;a dime a dozen&quot; if you purchase in bulk (200 or so). I now replace my seals on a regular basis, and have eliminated the failures referred to above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By using swing tops, I restrict my brewing footprint by not possessing a bottle capper. Bottling is much more expedient if you are organized. Fill - seal, fill - seal... At the end of the bottling session, I use a tea towel to ensure exterior bottle surfaces are dry, as I did, many years ago, encounter a mould issue (you live and learn). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only down side of which I am aware is that I am unable to submit swing top bottles in competitions. Not interested in brewing competitions, so it doesn't worry me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, but no technical evidence. Only years of experience with my 300 plus collection of 450ml-500ml swing top bottles. Oh, and they are extremely strong, so breakages are less frequent (according to my UBrew4U operator whose services I used for 4 years before he ceased operations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T08:42:25.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14624" CreationDate="2015-01-28T13:26:47.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to try a &quot;Cold Crash&quot; first too.  Depending on your situation, if you can get your carboy to a location where it is very cold and let it sit over night, you might get it to settle a little more.  Put it in a location where you don't have to move it before racking.(Garage?) Not sure if your bottling, but if you are, you might do it in two separate sessions, first bottle all the good beer that has no risk of getting sediment, then bottle the rest and mark it as such.  This you can just set aside for yourself.&#xA;BTW, I would be concerned about any filtration method where Oxygen that might come in contact with the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10753" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T13:26:47.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14635" CreationDate="2015-01-28T16:47:17.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a 5 gallon batch of extract pale ale and juiced 2.5 lbs of ginger, which was added to the brew and boiled for 30 mins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brew has the sneaker heat you're looking for. Or at least, it does when i brew it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re: yeast strain, I used an ale yeast and the brew isn't sweet, but it does have some body. Certainly not a dry ale by any means. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8175" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T16:47:17.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14617" CreationDate="2015-01-28T17:12:53.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Priming with wort (aka priming with gyle) is a bit tricky to accurately calculate. As Pepi mentions, you aren't working with fully fermentable sugars, so using a direct sugar calculation will be off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I primed with gyle, I used a calculation based on Papazian's guidelines in the Joy of Homebrewing. I made the assumption that his calculations were to get 2.8 volumes. Note that is entirely manufactured. From there, I used this calculation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;gyle in qts = (GALLONS_IN_BATCH / 5) * (60/(1000 * (SG - 1))) * DESIRED_VOLUMES/2.8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YMMV &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In answer to Jards, my results were good for getting desired carbonation. I quit the practice for a couple of reasons, but not related to carbonation. When I would boil the gyle just before priming, it would add a tremendous amount of DMS. I also didn't like storing loads of gyle while everything was fermenting. I was a bit worried if I didn't boil it, the time it was stored (perhaps 6 weeks in some cases) might produce bugs, but in the end, it's probably better than boiling :) Otherwise, I guess you could boil it for longer, but that would make for a long &quot;bottling&quot; day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T17:45:53.540" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T17:45:53.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3419" CreationDate="2015-01-28T21:25:40.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also detected this plastic burp off flavor. I have a vienna lager with this problem. I encountered with it earlier in a german roggenbier. I found it as &quot;styrene&quot; off flavor I think it is more or less meet your decription. I found a referance stating, that it is produced some of the yeast strains for example wheat beer strains. And it can be caused also by defective carbon dioxid gas supplies or a wild yeast contamination.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.michiganbrewersguild.org/docs/Gary-Spedding_off-flavor-notes_2014WC.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a link, you can find it on the second page&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3807" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T21:25:40.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14648" CreationDate="2015-01-29T03:41:05.157" Score="0" ViewCount="1229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently found a good deal online for food-grade beverage lines. I guess I only paid attention to the inner diameter measurements (3/16&quot;) to make sure it would fit with my existing barbed nipples and other adapters. Now that I've received my shipment, I noticed that it's much thinner than my existing lines. Turns out, my old ones are 7/16&quot; outer diameter, while my new ones are 5/16&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the increased likelihood of a pinched or kinked line, is there any reason I should avoid using these new lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: here is the link to the product &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00E6BCXQ8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on Amazon&lt;/a&gt;, and a screenshot in case the product link breaks in the future.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXYl8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of details from Amazon.com&quot;&gt;&#xA;Product Description: &#xA;&lt;code&gt;ATP Vinyl-Flex PVC NSF 61 tubing is suitable for general low-pressure industrial applications for the conveyance of liquids and semi solids. It also complies with FDA regulations and is NSF 61 compliant for use in potable water and food and beverage applications. Although it is not primarily intended for use in higher pressure applications it does provide good chemical resistance is lightweight flexible phthalate free and economically priced. 55 psi working pressure at 70 degrees F. Meets FDA requirements. USP class VI rated materials. NSF 61 certified. RoHS compliant, reach, prop 65, ASTMF930-03, EN-71, PAHS. Applications: beverage dispensing, drain, potable water, laboratory, low pressure air, distilled water transfer and light vacuum.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastEditorUserId="3914" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T16:48:47.967" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T16:48:47.967" Title="3/16 ID x 5/16 OD beer lines" Tags="|kegging|serving|tubing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14647" CreationDate="2015-01-29T05:24:27.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope.  ID really all that matters with respect to line-length resistance and system tuning.  The OD does not matter, though it does make me question what type of material the tubing is … which would also affect line-length resistance…?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T05:24:27.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14552" CreationDate="2015-01-29T17:35:45.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the style, how much time you have, your setup and ultimately how clear you want your beer. For lighter colored beers I'll generally use a bag for dry hopping (make sure you sanitize it first.) Nylon straining bags, cheesecloth or even bags designed for paint sprayers work.  Bigger beers I'm more likely to just add the hops directly to the beer as I do a lot of aging in fermenters and it has time for the sediment to settle.  During the boil I used them regularly in my previous setup (usually a hop spider,) but with my current setup I can whirpool the wort to minimize transfer of sediment to my fermenters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bag you have looks a little too tight of a weave, but that could just be the quality of the photo.  Depending on quantities you're doing you could always get bags that are used for steeping loose tea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10693" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T17:35:45.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14635" CreationDate="2015-01-30T00:56:25.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ginger by itself has a burn to it--since you'll be brewing with it try a little slice raw.  Adding peppers would definately kick up their own fire and could be great, but you'd be surprised how hot ginger alone can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a batch of this getting close to finishing.  Tons of ginger burn, and about 11% alcohol.  This is for a 3-gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;3 gallons water&#xA;3x lemons zested + juiced&#xA;3x limes zested + juiced&#xA;1lb grated ginger (washed, skins left on)&#xA;5lb white sugar&#xA;champaign yeast (I used Lalvin EC-1118)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil the water, dissolve the sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a couple tablespoons aside, cool it to warm, and proof the yeast in it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add all the ginger + fruit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give it a 10-15 minutes gentle boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool and aerate like normal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Primary will be 4+ weeks at 70-degrees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got everything but the yeast at a little inexpensive asian market, about $10 for the batch.  In my batch I left all the ground ginger and fruit stuff in primary, if I did it again I'd use a hop-sock to keep them all in a large teabag for easy removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow-up: This recipe originally called for 6lb of white sugar, my batch struggled to finish and bottle-carbonate so I lowered the amount to 5lbs.  If you can force-carb then 6lbs should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, filtering the ginger bits out was a little tricky.  I'd recommend the hop-sock and a bucket primary for easy removal--and possibly pulling it out after two weeks rather than leaving it in the full time (not sure if it would make a difference but might help keep the flavors crisp).  To get it out of the carboy I wrapped the end of a racking cane with sanitized cheesecloth and suck-started a syphon (I tried an autosyphon with terrible results).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T13:35:35.943" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T13:35:35.943" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-30T15:13:57.623" Score="0" ViewCount="636" Body="&lt;p&gt;After replacing the empty CO2 tank with a new/full CO2 tank, my beer is still flat. After 48 hours, it flows from the kegerator, but is as flat as could be. Is the keg ruined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10772" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T15:37:43.433" Title="I ran out of CO2" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14652" CreationDate="2015-01-30T15:37:43.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The keg should be fine. Oxygen shouldn't have gotten in, unless it was a corny keg with really bad seals. Carbonation time for a standing keg is something like a week (or more?), but I would expect some carbonation after two days. If crank up the pressure up to 20 or 30psi and shake the keg for half an hour, you can get it done much quicker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't hear CO2 going through the regulator while shaking the keg, then something is wrong mechanically. Also, if there are CO2 leaks you'll find them quickly this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T15:37:43.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14655" CreationDate="2015-01-30T17:43:12.497" Score="1" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to brew one of my first beers (using the malt extract brewing method), however when my ingredients arrived one of the bags was not quite sealed and some extract had leaked out. The loss of quantity is not an issue as I had slightly over ordered due to bag sizes. Will the extract remaining in the packet be okay to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not look/smell to be spoiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any more info required please ask, and thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10775" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T19:41:28.097" Title="Malt Extract not properly sealed" Tags="|malt|extract-brewing|spoilage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14654" CreationDate="2015-01-30T19:41:28.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if it was contaminated, as long as you plan on boiling it, it will be safe. If it was very spoiled (smelled bad), then it might have fewer sugars and the end result may taste bad. Otherwise, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T19:41:28.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-31T16:33:13.680" Score="2" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;More of an open-ended question really, I've been using Vin Classe Sterilising powder and find it hard to tell if my 25 litre fermenters are properly sterile, I've had a few issues with wine going off quickly once bottled but this may be the glass rather than the fermenter at fault?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just been using empty wine bottles to store a few bottles at a time and within 24 hours sometimes I've found the wine tastes a little off, would using different bottles/corks help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only really done a couple of batches before so it may well be other rookie issues&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any general advice would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10685" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T10:46:06.980" Title="Sterilising tips?" Tags="|wine|off-flavor|bottles|fermenter|sterilization|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13413" CreationDate="2015-01-31T19:05:38.397" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with earlier the earlier poster. Definitely add half your extract prior to hops. If your worried about per colouring it, add more hops and just boil it for 15 mins. That worked for me on an extract brew I got as a Christmas present. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10780" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T19:05:38.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6071" CreationDate="2015-01-31T22:01:03.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't had any problems with using the manual hand capper but I've had a problem on occasion when I take the cap off and the top of the neck of the bottle breaks.  I've had this happen on several occasions, maybe one or two bottles per case.   I'm wondering if I'm putting to much pressure on capping some bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10783" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T22:01:03.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4115" CreationDate="2015-01-31T22:04:52.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an alternative way I have found to work. If you have your keg in a kegerator and have run out of CO2, then follow these steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First start by disconnecting the CO2 from the keg coupler. Use a bicycle pump with a needle used for blowing up sports ball to replace the CO2. Attach the needle to the CO2 line and use duct tape etc. to secure it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have made sure there is no leakage occurring, begin pumping and open the tap. The liquid will begin to flow out of the tap without the need for siphoning. As long as the bicycle pump stays attached with the CO2 line, this method will continue to work until the pressure is let out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with the above answers and think that is a very good method if you are using a picnic tap, but if your keg is at home and you can't pull it out of the keg and lay it on its side, this is a very effective method. I have used it multiple times myself when I didn't feel like going across town to refill CO2. If the need or opportunity arises, please try. If my given directions are followed, you won't be disappointed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10784" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T17:42:03.013" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T17:42:03.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-01T11:57:28.230" Score="1" ViewCount="3313" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to detect whether excessive foaming / gushing is the result of over carbonation or a gusher contamination?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a telltale taste or other indicator? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8487" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:33:13.357" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:34:21.707" Title="Overcarbed or gusher contamination?" Tags="|carbonation|contamination|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14663" CreationDate="2015-02-01T14:06:44.360" Score="2" ViewCount="1070" Body="&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yobrew.co.uk/stuck.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; it is claimed that wine yeast needs some tannins to work, and that this can be a cause of stuck ferments in, say, flower wines. I have never heard of this, and cannot seem to find a good reference that corroborates this claim. Is it true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T17:04:19.987" Title="Tannins and yeast" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14660" CreationDate="2015-02-01T16:27:41.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be a characteristic flavour if it's infected. Many bacterial contaminations will produce acid, so often infected beer is sour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:34:21.707" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:34:21.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14661" CreationDate="2015-02-01T16:31:45.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never head this before, and after looking around quite a bit I couldn't find any evidence to support (or even suggest) the link. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only thing I can think of is either: this refers to a non &lt;em&gt;S. cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt; yeast (maybe &lt;em&gt;Brett&lt;/em&gt; or some other wild yeast), though I couldn't find any evidence of that either; or, some other substance beneficial to yeast happens to correlate to the amount of tannins in the grapes or be extracted by the same factors that favor tannin extraction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In beer production, polyphenol content (tannins are a kind of polyphenol) tends to decrease during fermentation, which is actually due in part to its adhering to the outside of the yeast cells (similar to what bitter hop resins do), so I'd really think tannins would have exactly the opposite effect (that is, an &lt;em&gt;inhibitory&lt;/em&gt; effect) as what this page suggests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T16:31:45.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14660" CreationDate="2015-02-01T23:08:06.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you took a specific gravity reading before you bottled and were confident that it was at final gravity, de-gas a sample and take another gravity reading now. If it's the same, it's over-carbonated. If it's noticeably lower, then some other wild yeast or bacteria else has likely got a hold of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T23:08:06.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14660" CreationDate="2015-02-02T05:59:04.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tobias and Tallie are right, and there are other things to look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As scum on top of the beer, or a ring around the neck is a nearly always from a contamination (the other possible cause would be unusual ingredients, like cocoa butter from chocolate, but you would know that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that can cause gushing, without contamination or over carbonation is just having a lot of nucleation points in the beer. Suspended yeast will do it and (I think) chill haze and/or precipitated water salts can also act as nucleation points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:33:44.377" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:33:44.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14669" CreationDate="2015-02-02T09:07:33.267" Score="0" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any local brewery and supply shop in Istanbul? I want to start home brewing but I don't know how to find supplies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8309" LastEditorDisplayName="user8292" LastEditDate="2017-06-08T17:15:33.270" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T17:15:33.270" Title="Local breweries and brewery supplies in Istanbul" Tags="|first-time-brewer|brewery|shopping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14668" CreationDate="2015-02-02T10:48:40.090" Score="3" ViewCount="2661" Body="&lt;p&gt;Total newbie here so sorry for the very basic question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started doing a the Coopers Lager kit last night (using the standard Coopers Homebrew start kit set up). It said in the instructions to add the yeast and ferment at 21-27 degrees C however I added the yeast and have been leaving it ferment around 14-18 (my back shed) as I read a comment that lager tastes nicer when brewed 11-18. Feeling kinda silly about that now though, should have just followed the instructions I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is, have I ruined the beer, will it not ferment properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10788" LastEditorUserId="10788" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T14:01:25.453" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T15:16:08.240" Title="Am I fermenting homebrew kit at too low a temperature" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|coopers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14667" CreationDate="2015-02-02T13:20:10.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you haven't. But, you should probably let it warm up to the recommended temperature, let it finish fermenting and then switch to fermenting ales for a while. It ought to still ferment fully and be drinkable, but it won't taste anything like what you might expect a lager to taste like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lagers are really much more difficult to produce well than ales due to the different physiological needs of the lager yeast. The lower fermentation temp. requires pitching much more yeast than is normal for ales, and you really need good temperature control, among other things. If you ferment at a lower temp without making sure you're pitching and managing the fermentation correctly, you're not going to end up with a better tasting lager, in fact you'll probably end up with something rather disappointing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think lagers are generally a bad place to &lt;em&gt;start&lt;/em&gt; homebrewing because the work/worry/complexity-to-reward ratio is just too high. It's kind of like trying to learn calculus before you learn algebra. Ales will give you much better results in a much wider range of fermentation temperatures with much less fuss and a huge deal less to go wrong. I'd suggest getting a bunch of ales under your belt before you dive back into the lager scene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001D6KP14&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Looks like&lt;/a&gt; you're actually already fermenting with ale yeast. They really ought to put the word 'lager' in quotes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T19:46:34.267" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T19:46:34.267" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14666" CreationDate="2015-02-02T14:38:30.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/brewing-beer-istanbul-first-all-grain-beer-139053/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This thread&lt;/a&gt;, especially the more recent posts, relates some first-hand experience of people trying to homebrew in Istanbul. Sounds like importing supplies might be a hassle with customs, and there don't seem to be many local options. Maybe the brewers at your local &lt;a href=&quot;http://bosphorus-brewing.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bosphorus Brewing Co.&lt;/a&gt; could offer some advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T14:38:30.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14671" CreationDate="2015-02-02T17:39:44.410" Score="4" ViewCount="1485" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I made my first ever homebrew ale yesterday, transferred it to my fermentation bin and pitched the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 24 hours at the recommended temperature there is a nice thick layer of krausen on top and if I listen carefully I can here very, very quiet bubbling within the container, but the airlock is barely bubbling at all. Tiny bubbles sit in the airlock but don't move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to pitch more yeast or is this normal behaviour? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anymore info required please ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, I have scoured the internet and read two books, but nowhere can I find if I should have removed hops prior to fermentation, so I left them in, is this okay/normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10775" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T17:50:07.503" Title="Airlock not bubbling" Tags="|fermentation|hops|first-time-brewer|airlock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14670" CreationDate="2015-02-02T17:50:07.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you didn't pitch yeast from an actively fermenting starter, 24 hours is a perfectly reasonable lag time. But if you really are seeing a thick kräusen atop your beer, it sounds like there's just a leak around the airlock. What are you fermenting in? A bucket with a lid gives plenty of opportunity for leaks around the edges. I'd be more concerned if it were a carboy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With fermentation, the real thing you have to remember is to just be patient. If there's visible activity (heck, if you can &lt;em&gt;hear&lt;/em&gt; it), it's fine. Just keep it at the proper temperature and let it do its thing. Double check for air-tightness of your fermenting container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the hops, I prefer to leave them behind. Best way is to whirlpool and let it settle so it forms a mass in the middle of the bottom that you can rack around. It's not going to &lt;em&gt;kill&lt;/em&gt; your fermentation to have hops in it, but it could make it pretty messy to clean. Plus you'll just have to wait for them to settle out after fermentation anyway, which may add unnecessary extra time in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T17:50:07.503" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14674" CreationDate="2015-02-03T07:10:52.147" Score="3" ViewCount="1493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do small batch brewing (3.5l-4l) and using hydrometer is a big pain for them, as I need to take very big amount of beer out to test it. I've learned to do OG readings with refractometer, but I get very wrong results when I do FG reading (after applying refractometer formula). Refractometer is very well calibrated (checking it before every measurement), but I get results like 3.1% brix, which yields &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; low FG results, like 1.001. That sounds unfeasible for &quot;normal&quot; yeast like US-05.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong when doing refractometer measurements? Are there any &quot;shorter&quot; hydrometers available, that would require smaller samples?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6176" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T01:58:36.810" Title="Measuring SG on small (3.5l / 1g) batches" Tags="|hydrometer|final-gravity|small-batch|refractometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14672" CreationDate="2015-02-03T10:39:50.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From morebeer.com: &quot;After ethanol is present a refractometer reading will be off.&quot; That is, the refractometer is calibrated to measure sugar in water, not sugar in water/alcohol - the index of refraction is bit different for alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They provide a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.morebeer.com/web_files/morebeer.com/files/THJ%20Refractometer_Beer.xls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spreadsheet&lt;/a&gt; to help determine the actual gravity based on original gravity and final gravity reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T10:39:50.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14672" CreationDate="2015-02-03T19:45:30.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find a refractometer works great for OG, and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/lad-grade-hydrometer-980-1-020.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;finishing hydrometer&lt;/a&gt; works best for final gravity (with presence of alcohol). I typically drink the sample, as I am mostly curious as to how the flavor is shaping up, especially once FG has settled (to gauge bulk-aging or conditioning impact on flavor). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have some sours that I sometimes return the sample with (since I take so many over the long aging period). In this case, I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/fermtech-wine-thief.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wine thief&lt;/a&gt; and I put the hydrometer in the thief. Before I take a sample, I put both in sanitizer, then carefully drain the sanitizer. Then, with the hydrometer in the thief, gently lower both into the vessel until I get enough of a sample to get a reading. Then I carefully pull out the hydrometer and gently set it aside, then return the sample to the vessel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know another homebrewer who constructed a container from about 3 feet of 3&quot; diameter pvc pipe, sealed at one end and plugged on top, mounted on a stand, so he can keep his thief and hydrometer sitting in sanitizer. He just pulls the plug and empties the thief, then pulls his sample, measures it, returns the sample, then returns the thief and hydrometer to the sanitizer in the container. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most thief's (thieves?) are plastic, so you probably don't want to leave it sitting in the sanitizer for extended periods, as the plastic will break down over time, but you probably also don't want a glass thief, as this will greatly increase the risk of breaking your hydrometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T19:45:30.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14660" CreationDate="2015-02-03T20:15:57.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gushing is a sign of over-priming. You can get over-priming from using too much priming sugar, bottling too early (before the yeast has finished) or from a wild yeast or bacteria that eats the remaining sugars and produces CO2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, I have had a half a dozen gushers and two (unintended) sour batches. I would argue that all my gushers were from bottling before the yeast had finished, especially since one of my unanticipated sour beers was completely flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live at altitude and suspect some yeasts just simply take longer here than anticipated; typically 3-4 weeks for S04 for example. It's a bit difficult to determine exact anticipated final gravity, since both wort ferment-ability and potential yeast attenuation will both limit final gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find using a temperature controlled fermentaion chamber, slowly increasing fermentation temperature over a two week period and adding a longer conditioning period has helped, and I'd argue improves the flavor as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T20:15:57.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14672" CreationDate="2015-02-04T01:58:36.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a small hydrometer (17cm in length) and a 50ml test tube. I rarely need more than 40ml to take a reading, so four readings would require, in total, less than 5% of you wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T01:58:36.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14599" CreationDate="2015-02-04T03:38:40.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your equation should only be adjusted for water loss due to boiling: for the above target use 1.088g per gallon assuming 7.5g of wort will boil down to 6g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Losses in the mash are simply due to water sticking to the grains, the is no appreciable 'sticking' of salts to the grain, other than surface tension of water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore even if your sparge water didn't have any salts, you could still recover the salts from the mash because the unidirectional flow through the grain bed will carry the salt down much faster than it can diffuse (using you don't do something silly like stirring the mash while lautering).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T03:38:40.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14599" CreationDate="2015-02-04T04:16:09.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are targeting &lt;strong&gt;200 ppm for your final 6 gallons of wort&lt;/strong&gt;, but you need that same amount of mineral present in 7.5 gallons of wort, pre-boil. Not the same &lt;em&gt;concentration&lt;/em&gt; (200 ppm), mind you, but the same &lt;em&gt;absolute&lt;/em&gt; amount, since it will concentrate as evaporation occurs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To calculate ppm in 7.5 gal:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;200 ppm x 6 gallons / 7.5 gallons = 160 ppm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To get 160ppm (with 1 gram CaSO4 per gallon giving 147.4 ppm):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;160 ppm / 147.4 = 1.085 grams per gallon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For the total addition:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's where you account for your predicted 1.5 gallons left behind in the mash. Because the pre-mash water and the post-mash wort will both be 160 ppm (so will the water left behind) you have to have your full pre-boil volume + loss equal 160 ppm, hence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(7.5 gallons + 1.5 gallons) x 1.085 grams/gallon = &lt;strong&gt;~9.77 grams CaSO4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to the last point in your post:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;if I lose X gallons in the mash do I precisely lose the ratio of salt to X gallons as well&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sulfates and chlorides remain soluble during mashing so you should see a proportionate loss (~16.7% water retention would mean ~16.7% retention of Cl or SO&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt; in the spent grain, i.e. the ppm won't change). Calcium, however, reacts with phosphates released by the malt and forms an insoluble precipitate which will be left behind in the mash or precipitate later. So you would hypothetically see a higher loss for Ca than 16.7% in your finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To elucidate the point above a bit more, here's the reaction that occurs between CaSO&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt; and malt-derived phosphates that produces insoluble calcium phosphate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_sulfate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CaSO&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/a&gt; + 4 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dipotassium_phosphate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;K&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;HPO&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/a&gt; --&gt; {&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_phosphate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ca&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt;(PO&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt;)&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/a&gt;}* + 2 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monopotassium_phosphate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KH&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;PO&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/a&gt; + 3 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potassium_sulfate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;K&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;SO&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;{...}*&lt;/strong&gt; = insoluble/precipitate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;This formula is from &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?ei=Yo_TVMTuKcSnggSM_YMg&amp;amp;id=fN9JAAAAYAAJ&amp;amp;dq=practical+brewer&amp;amp;focus=searchwithinvolume&amp;amp;q=precipitate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Practical Brewer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the reaction is basically the same with chlorides. You can see that calcium phosphate is the only insoluble substance produced, so you should only see a higher ratio of calcium being lost to the mash, and it will depend very much on your water and malt composition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T15:46:39.033" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T15:46:39.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-04T18:40:20.493" Score="1" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the primary fermentation of mead, using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/brewing-equipment/fermenting-equipment/big-mouth-bubbler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one of these&lt;/a&gt; &quot;big mouth bubbler&quot; 5 gallon fermenters and an S airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, when the fermentation was really vigorous, the airlock behaved as expected, bubbles pushed through every second or so, and then slowed down. Recently, however, the level in the airlock is almost even - it's still slightly lower on the fermenter side, suggesting that there's pressure being held inside, but not much, and it's not going down. This despite the fact that bubbles are still clearly rising inside the liquid in the fermenter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one point, I took apart the lid, stopper and airlock, cleaned everything and re-attached it (thinking there might be some gunk preventing a seal), and this seemed to solve the problem for about a day (airlock immediately pressurized, and started bubbling every couple of seconds), but the next day, the problem returned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any explanation other than a potential leak somewhere? The fermenter is brand new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10691" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T11:46:15.890" Title="Airlock not pressurized, any explanation other than a leak?" Tags="|techniques|mead|airlock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14685" CreationDate="2015-02-05T02:35:32.247" Score="1" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;As i'm about to bottle my first batch.  After all the googling and reading I've done, what grains have been fermented into beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10728" LastEditorUserId="10728" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T03:44:14.347" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T04:17:32.297" Title="What grains have been fermented?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-02-06T16:38:20.123" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-05T08:50:06.347" Score="1" ViewCount="932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a Barolo wine which is now stabilizing in a carboy with a bubble airlock fitted, the water from the airlock is being drawn into the carboy. Is this normal ? If not how can I stop this ? Will this ruin my brew ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10805" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T06:08:36.317" Title="Will my airlock problem ruin my wine?" Tags="|equipment|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14682" CreationDate="2015-02-05T14:11:58.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not ideal, but it's probably not a huge problem, either. It's highly unlikely to ruin your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's most likely happening because the wine in the carboy is cooling, thus reducing pressure inside the carboy, literally sucking the liquid from the airlock like a straw.  Did you put the liquid into the carboy hot or warm?  What's the ambient temperature in the environment now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can stop the problem by using foil over the mouth of the carboy until the temperature stabilizes, then switch to an airlock. Or, just repeatedly (every couple of hours) remove the airlock to allow pressure to equalize, then replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T14:11:58.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4115" CreationDate="2015-02-05T15:07:59.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use gravity. Start by taking a liquid line with a picnic tap and filling with sanitizer. Next, put your keg on a counter. Take the lid off your keg (to de-pressurize). Connect your liquid tap to your keg, then open the tap. You should be good to go. Make sure to catch the first bit into a bucket, as you'll want to dump it since it has the sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2215" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T15:07:59.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14681" CreationDate="2015-02-06T00:34:36.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using this list as a base for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Food_grain#Classification&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grains&lt;/a&gt;, I will try to come up with list of grains that have been fermented into alcohol.  Everything in this list should be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewsite.com/apocalypse-beer-ferment-anything/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;possible&lt;/a&gt; to ferment. The question is, has it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;brewed&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Warm-season (C4) cereals&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eleusine_coracana#Nutrition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;finger millet&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;The grain is made into a fermented drink (or beer) in Nepal and in&#xA;many parts of Africa&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fonio#White_fonio_.28Digitaria_exilis.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;white fonio&lt;/a&gt; The grains are used in porridge and couscous, for bread, and for beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foxtail_millet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;foxtail millet&lt;/a&gt; it's been &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=XAjXJU8Ud8sC&amp;amp;pg=PT271&amp;amp;lpg=PT271&amp;amp;dq=%22kodo+millet%22+fermentation+alcohol+beer&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=rvWVZ756QG&amp;amp;sig=-WTBsgVJkuIwwc0BzVFC34KNlNY&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=-f3TVI6iH4-INpTGgtAE&amp;amp;ved=0CDUQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=%22kodo%20millet%22%20fermentation%20alcohol%20beer&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brewed&lt;/a&gt; though i was looking for kodo millet at the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paspalum_scrobiculatum&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kodo millet&lt;/a&gt; potential answer .. though like foxtail millet, many cousins are fermented everywhere&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Echinochloa_esculenta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;japanese millet&lt;/a&gt; someone &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/patents/EP1867710A1?cl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;patented&lt;/a&gt; a process to brew it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maize&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;maize (corn)&lt;/a&gt;  yeah, didn't even read the wiki for &lt;em&gt;proof&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pearl_millet#Namibia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pearl millet&lt;/a&gt; namibia has it brewed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proso_millet#Uses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;proso millet&lt;/a&gt; yup, brewed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sorghum&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sorghum&lt;/a&gt; 30 sub-species on this one, will need to check each sub-species... stay tuned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cool-season (C3) cereals&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barley&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;barley&lt;/a&gt; yeah....I'm a completionist. if you're reading this to see if it's been brewed do not invite me over to try your homebrew.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;oats&lt;/a&gt; cook 'em first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rice&lt;/a&gt; ever drink a light beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rye&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rye&lt;/a&gt; brewing a rye pale ale right now, from a kit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eragrostis_tef&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;teff&lt;/a&gt; gluten free beer, and amazing bread.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triticale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;triticale&lt;/a&gt; wheat meets rye. of course alcohol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wheat&lt;/a&gt; see rye.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pseudocereal grains&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amaranth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;buckwheat&lt;/a&gt; ever had buckwheat pancakes? yeah brew it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amaranth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;amaranth&lt;/a&gt; 44 species. stay tuned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/patents/US20120201924&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quinoa&lt;/a&gt; patent for brewing it, apparently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Grain legumes or pulses&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicha&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chickpeas&lt;/a&gt; Peruvian Chicha includes chickpeas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phaseolus_vulgaris&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;common beans&lt;/a&gt; more species, stay tuned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pea&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;common peas (garden peas)&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://zythophile.wordpress.com/2012/10/16/pea-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brewed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lentil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lentils&lt;/a&gt; brewed in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/wierd-idea-381968/index14.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2012&lt;/a&gt; by boreal brewer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mung_bean&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mung beans&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/patents/CN1371967A?cl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;patented&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peanut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;peanuts&lt;/a&gt; some evidence it's happened as a mistake, which i'll say they've been fermented by accident.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pigeon peas see peas above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phaseolus_coccineus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;runner beans&lt;/a&gt; yup &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homewinemaking.co.uk/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1095679491&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brewed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Aster family&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safflower&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;safflower&lt;/a&gt; used in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/brewing-ergosterol-safflower-oil-260886/index2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;yeast starter&lt;/a&gt;, kind of counts...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/hops/item/2530-brewing-gone-nuts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sunflower seed&lt;/a&gt; brewed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other families&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hemp seed (Hemp family)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hempgifts.com/hemp-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;not just for brownies anymore&lt;/a&gt; not my thing, but it's been brewed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poppy_seed#Use_in_food_and_cooking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;poppy seed (Poppy family)&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.drugs-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70837&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brewed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;no &lt;em&gt;proof&lt;/em&gt; yet&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Warm-season (C4) cereals&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fonio#Black_fonio_.28Digitaria_iburua.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;black fonio&lt;/a&gt; ... will research further&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fonio#Raishan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Raishan&lt;/a&gt; ... will research further&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Job%27s_Tears#Uses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Job's Tears&lt;/a&gt; turned into a liqour, though no specifications for beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pseudocereal grains&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Grain legumes or pulses&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vicia_faba&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fava beans&lt;/a&gt; ... will research further&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phaseolus_lunatus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lima beans&lt;/a&gt; ... will research further&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lupinus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lupins&lt;/a&gt; ... will research further&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soybean&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;soybeans&lt;/a&gt; forest through the trees again. fermented solids are everywhere, but in a brew? ... will research further&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mustard family&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brassica_nigra&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;black mustard&lt;/a&gt; pretty much a spice and very oily. (ruins head, rots), in a wort?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brassica_juncea&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;India mustard&lt;/a&gt; oily, a spice, in a wort? not that I found&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rapeseed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rapeseed (including canola)&lt;/a&gt; um.. used for canola oil, chainsaw and steam engine lubricant. no evidence it's been brewed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other families&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flax#Flax_seeds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flax seed (Flax family)&lt;/a&gt; yeah. oily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10728" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T04:17:32.297" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14691" CreationDate="2015-02-06T03:00:53.573" Score="0" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tube was flat in some parts of it, is there a way to make it more round so the liquid smoothly flows thru?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that was the reason I was seeing air bubbles in the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10679" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T22:02:57.880" Title="1/2&quot; diameter 5/8&quot; thick clear plastic tube" Tags="|siphon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-06T04:12:55.930" Score="2" ViewCount="485" Body="&lt;p&gt;My buddy and I are looking to upgrade to a 20 gallon brew stand, and I'm looking for recommendations between buying a full setup, which brand, or making one ourselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10809" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T03:01:27.883" Title="Brew stand recommendations" Tags="|equipment|all-grain|large-batch|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14689" CreationDate="2015-02-06T06:22:30.887" Score="2" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen several beer, mead, and wine recipes that call for yeast nutrients. I'm even now following a mead recipe that calls for staggered nutrients. But my question is, what exactly are yeast nutrients? What is in these nutrients that isn't in wort/must that the yeast needs or wants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T16:04:46.750" Title="Yeast nutrients" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14688" CreationDate="2015-02-06T16:04:46.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You see this mostly in wine, cider and mead making because those sources of fermentable sugars lack some of the nutrients needed by yeast for proper fermentation, which are usually present in malt-based worts. They are (aside from fermentable sugars):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Amino acids/nitrogen&lt;/strong&gt; - All-malt worts supply plenty of readily &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yeast_assimilable_nitrogen&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;assimilable nitrogen&lt;/a&gt;. This is a big need though for wine, cider and mead fermentations as there isn't usually sufficient present in the must/juice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lipids&lt;/strong&gt; - Sufficiently present in wort. Added dissolved oxygen will be taken up by yeast and allows it to synthesize its own lipids, though I don't know if this is common practice outside beer-making. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B vitamins&lt;/strong&gt; - not sure how little there is in non-malt fermentables, but will be in good supply from regular wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other trace elements&lt;/strong&gt;, mainly ions of calcium, magnesium, zinc, phosphate and sulfate. Zinc is the only one of these not present in (usually) sufficient quantities in all-malt beer wort (supplied by both malt and water), making it the only necessary &lt;em&gt;addition&lt;/em&gt; for such beers. In wine/cider/mead most of these will be deficient.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's in some yeast nutrients?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diammonium_phosphate&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diammonium Phosphate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is commonly used as a source of nitrogen and phosphate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_sulfate&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Zinc sulfate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; - for zinc, and sulfate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://winemakermag.com/405-is-yeast-extract-the-same-as-yeast-hulls-and-yeast-nutrient-and-what-is-the-best-way-to-use-it&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dead yeast/yeast hulls&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; - has pretty much everything live yeast need, nutrient-wise. Supplies lipids, B vitamins and trace elements. Yeast hulls can also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.extension.iastate.edu/wine/problem-fermentation-and-yeast-hulls&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;decrease the inhibitory effect of certain fermentation byproducts&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast nutrients are often proprietary (as in they won't say exactly what's in there), and each will supply a different mix of nutrients, usually specifically targeted towards a certain kind of fermentation (i.e. wine, mead, for enhancing beer, etc.) so make sure you're getting the right thing for your particular needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T16:04:46.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-06T20:40:23.263" Score="2" ViewCount="1050" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using half of a vial of white labs liquid yeast for brewing 1 gallon batches of beer. How long will the second half last once I put it back in the frige? It had been allowed to warm according to their instructions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other recomendations for using liquid yeast as a 1 gallon brewer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10810" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T16:11:48.860" Title="How long does a white labs liquid yeast vial last once opened?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14686" CreationDate="2015-02-06T22:02:57.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're seeing air bubbles in the tubing because you're letting air in it somewhere (connections are the most likely place).  If this is the typical vinyl tubing that I think it is, just get some more.  Seriously, my local big box home improvement store sells 20 feet of the stuff for less than $8.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should replace if from time to time anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T22:02:57.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14693" CreationDate="2015-02-07T04:21:40.660" Score="5" ViewCount="1544" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, so this is my first batch where I came up with the recipe instead of using a recipe kit, and something seems to have gone wrong. Here are my brewing notes so you can see exactly what I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U9JBF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I brought 3 gallons of water up to a boil, then added all 13 pounds of malt extract, which actually almost filled up the 5 gallon kettle. After brewing, I added maybe 1 more gallon of water to the fermenter, then took a gravity reading. (It was a 6 gallon fermenter, but wasn't quite full and had a crap ton of sediment, so I'm guessing I had around 5 gallons) Here is where the first unexpected thing happened - my OG reading was 1.072, which seemed really low, especially since the calculator I used estimated 1.095. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm on a time crunch to have this ready for a homebrew beer fest on Feb 25, so I bottled it after 2 weeks in the fermentor. I assumed it would be done fermenting and did not even check to see if the airlock was still bubbling... Which obviously I would go back and change if I could. So we siphon as much beer as we can out of the fermentor, and end up with 3 gallons. Not exactly sure how, but there was so much sediment in the fermentor that it was hard to get clear beer out when we were near the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where I start to worry - we take a gravity reading and it is 1.040. Now I'm a little worried that there are still fermentable sugars in the beer, especially since I didn't check to see if it was still bubblin, and the calculator estimated FG at 1.027. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more issue - I put in 3/4 cups of priming sugar, which is the amount for 5 gallons, and I only had 3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is my question - should I be worried about my bottles exploding? Also, can you think of any explanations for why my OG was so low? It doesn't make any sense to me. And on the FG... Is there any way that fermentation could be done with it being that high? Thanks for any clarification you can give. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8339" LastEditorUserId="8339" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T14:31:09.050" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T17:30:57.293" Title="Should I be worried about my bottles exploding?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14692" CreationDate="2015-02-07T05:03:53.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;can't quite read the picture, and opening it in a window and zooming in made it fuzzy.  Your final FG of 1.040 is a legitimate starting gravity for some beer.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style16.php#1c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Category 16&lt;/a&gt; judged styles can start @ 1.044 and higher.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/17981/50081/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jai alai cedar aged IPA&lt;/a&gt; clone FG should be around &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style14.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could kind of make out our yeast, they expect 70% attenuation or so.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this calculator&lt;/a&gt; has you at 43% attenuation, and 1.027 planned FG only put you @ 61% attenuation and 6% alcohol.  Un-fermentables can't cover 20%.  I don't think it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jaysbrewing.com/2013/01/03/bottle-bombs-and-what-to-do/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;#emergency surgery#&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;- you'll have to release some co2 in a few days, recrimp the cap, and do it again until you hit a lower hydro reading.  use one bottle as a sample to take a hydro reading to see how often you have to keep doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i'm only one batch in myself.  maybe someone else will have a better solution ... or i'm completely wrong and you're fine.  but I think you're in trouble, open the brews away from friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10728" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T05:03:53.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14692" CreationDate="2015-02-07T08:08:21.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's great that you're excited about showing off your brew, but my one word answer is: WORRY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you have in the bottles today should be as sweet as a coke. It's either full of dead yeast, and might carbonate slowly over a year. And then explode. Or worse yet the yeast is alive and trying to carbonate and will explode soon. If it ever gets near that predicted FG, you've got trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bring that to your friends at the brew fest, and you might lose some friends due to explosions, broken glass, beer soaked clothes, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've got 18 days left, and this beer probably will want to ferment for the whole time. I'd carefully open all the bottles, put them back into a fermenter and re-pitch. Purge the fermenter with CO2 if you can, and hope for the best. Maybe force carb at the last minute, or serve it cask style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T08:08:21.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14692" CreationDate="2015-02-07T15:57:19.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how sturdy your bottles are you probably won't need to worry about exploding bottles. I would, however, keep them in a contained container (ie plastic bin) just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since some funky things went on during this ambitious brew, I would also &quot;rename&quot; the beer. That way people don't compare it to something they might be familiar with. Letting some air escape from the bottles is a great idea - I have done that before with decent results. Just make sure there is a week or so of time after you release so they can condition some more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider &quot;decanting&quot; the beer if you find it has too much head when you pore them. When all is said an done, I'm sure the beer will taste fine. Just be proud of your first non-kit brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That sure is one hell of a recipe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3885" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T15:57:19.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14667" CreationDate="2015-02-07T16:05:12.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if that is the target temperature for fermentation is 21-27 C it is most certainly ale yeast. I would just let it ferment an extra week or so at somewhere around 20 C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interesting in true lagers in the future, your shed sounds like a nice place for lagering if you can trust the weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you will find you love the beer no matter what. Home Brew has that extra bit of love infused in :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://allaboutbeer.net/article/lager-beer-vs-ale-beer%E2%80%94does-it-matter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lager Beer vs. Ale Beer—Does It Matter?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3885" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2021-10-29T15:16:08.240" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T15:16:08.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-07T18:35:27.460" Score="0" ViewCount="421" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to homebrewing and I tried a Muntons Extract Pilsner kit.  I followed the instructions on the kit to a T and after 3 weeks (and having read other questions and comments on this site), my SG is still above 1.020.  Can I salvage this batch still or should I just scrap it and start over?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10814" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T19:13:30.423" Title="Muntons pilsner specific gravity not coming down" Tags="|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14682" CreationDate="2015-02-08T06:08:36.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally the chances of it ruining your batch is pretty low, but one never wants to risk the off chance that it may result in an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is from a similar previous experience that I (like many) use cheap vodka for my airlocks since it makes sure things stay clean in the airlock and if some of it seeps back into the fermenter it will not impact the flavor of the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people use left over sanitizer, but I avoid this since I have never gotten a definite answer from someone on how long one can use a batch of sanitizer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also some people reckon that for primary fermentation (of wine) you don't even need to  use an airlock. You can cover the mouth of the carboy with a coffee filter and elastic. The thinking is that you want to maximize the exposure to oxygen during primary to help the yeast. Once you  transfer to your secondary that is when the exposure to oxygen really becomes important and that is where the airlocks come in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am too paranoid to try this, so I use airlocks throughout and just make sure that the batch is properly aerated when going into the primary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10815" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T06:08:36.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14692" CreationDate="2015-02-08T17:30:57.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The beer did not finish fermenting during the first two weeks. This can happen if the yeast was not viable when pitched, or if it was stressed during fermentation. You almost certainly bottled the beer with unfermented malt sugars in it, in addition to the priming sugar that you added. There are two possible scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The yeast is dead. In this scenario the beer will not carbonate, and you'll end up with flat, sweet beer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The yeast is alive, but working slowly. In this scenario, the yeast will eventually consume most of the fermentable sugars producing carbon dioxide. Priming sugar typically adds about 2 points of gravity. You missed your target by 13 gravity points. To understand how much CO2 is will be produced, think of it this way: you've got 7.5 times the amount of fermentable sugar in the bottles as is necessary for carbonation. As a consequence, the yeast will produce 7.5 times as much CO2, generating 7.5 times as much pressure in the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there's a good chance you've got some bottle bombs on your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T17:30:57.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14702" CreationDate="2015-02-08T20:09:45.040" Score="0" ViewCount="758" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just pitched my first Saison, using WLP 565 24 hours ago.  Bubbling nicely.  I'm worried about diacetyl, am I paranoid?  Aroma section of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style16.php#1c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beer judging style guide&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;no diacetyl&quot; in the aroma section for Saisons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had a Diacetyl problem with any of the yeasts from white labs below?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp670-american-farmhouse-blend&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wlp670&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp590-french-saison-ale-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wlp590&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp585-belgian-saison-iii-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wlp585&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp568-belgian-style-saison-ale-yeast-blend&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wlp568&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp566-belgian-saison-ii-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wlp566&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp565-belgian-saison-i-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wlp565&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp550-belgian-ale-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wlp550&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10728" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T21:14:57.853" Title="White lab Saison yeasts and diacetyl, ever had a &quot;buttery&quot; problem?" Tags="|fermentation|diacetyl-rest|saison|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14701" CreationDate="2015-02-08T20:50:14.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your yeast is healthy and abundant and you're not cold-crashing the beer as soon as fermentation tails off, you'll be fine. I've fermented with a number of Saison and Belgian strains (though I can't remember which off the top of my head) and I've never had any problems with diacetyl. Also, basically any strain that's known to produce diacetyl in over-abundance will say so on its spec sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elevated temperature many Belgians ferment at is actually a boon to yeast's reduction of diacetyl to flavor-neutral compounds after primary. Also, most Belgians are medium to medium-low flocculators (highly flocculent yeast tends to leave more diacetyl around). More yeast in suspension = more power to reduce diacetyl post-fermentation. To be safe, there's really no reason &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to just let your beers sit for a week at primary temperature after fermentation is done to make extra sure all the D is gone. A small, virtually risk-free step you can take to ensure good beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm concerned the &lt;em&gt;'No diacetyl'&lt;/em&gt; comment should be applied universally (if you read a lot of BJCP guidelines, you'll see it so many times you'll stop even noticing it). Luckily, provided you follow the general practices of good fermentation, it's really one of the easiest off-flavors to avoid with pretty much any ale yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T20:50:14.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14705" CreationDate="2015-02-08T21:03:27.933" Score="1" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying my first all grain brew yesterday when I realized that the beer was almost flat, which is weird because they spent about a week inside the bottle. It's a belgian golden ale and I've added about 10ml of a primming solution of 80g of sugar diluted in about 450ml of water (used an online calculator) for 33 cl bottles. What exactly has gone wrong? Was the yeast already dead at bottling or there wasn't enough sugar? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10819" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T19:23:24.993" Title="Carbonation gone wrong?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|ale|belgian|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14701" CreationDate="2015-02-08T21:14:57.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My co author, Drew Beechum, is pretty much recognized as the master of saison.  In our book &quot;Experimental Homebrewing&quot; he writes about 565 and how temprementl it can be.  For one thing, you need to raise the temp into the 80s after the first couple weeks in order to get the yeast to finish.  That will clean up a lot of the diacxetyl.  Most surprisingly, it's incredibly sensitive to the smallest amount of back pressure, which will cause it to stall. To combat that, he ferments open at first, then just covers the fermenter loosely with AL foil. Anything that causes the yeast to stop working will prevent it from cleaning up diacetyl.  All of this info is on pg. 123-127 of &quot;Experimental Homebrewing&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T21:14:57.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14703" CreationDate="2015-02-08T22:42:20.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A week might not be long enough (especially if your yeast is particularly beleaguered, which would depend mostly on what the ABV of the finished beer is and how long it's been since fermentation). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure your bottles are in a warm enough area (~70 °F is ideal for bottle-conditioning). Lower than this and it can definitely take several weeks, even with healthy yeast. I'd let it go a week or two longer and then if you don't see improvement, start to worry something went horribly wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RE-editing: That might actually not be enough sugar. 10 ml of that solution would contain 1.5g. sugar (10g x [80g / 530g]). Using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this calculator&lt;/a&gt;, at a beer temp. of 68 (a fair assumption), 1.5g sugar per 33cl (or 0.087 gal.) bottle would yield ~2.1-2.2 volumes of CO2, depending on what kind of sugar you use. Not super low, but also not super high either. I'd still wait and see if it turns around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T16:04:30.027" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:04:30.027" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14703" CreationDate="2015-02-08T23:15:24.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you have anything to worry about yet. Most of my batches take around 2 weeks to get to a reasonable level of carbonation, and are usually fully carbonated in about 3 weeks. Take Papazian's advice - Don't worry, have a Homebrew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would comment on the amount of sugar, but I can't tell the size of your batch from your post, but the standard for a 5 gallon batch would be 3/4 of a cup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;My advice at this point would be to move them to a warmer room (at LEAST 65 °F), and wait another 2 weeks. If your beer is still entirely flat, there might possibly be something wrong with the yeast. My guess though is that it will be slightly carbonated, but not as much as you'd like. You could leave as is, or if you decide you want it more fully carbonated, you could just completely start the carbonation process over with more priming sugar (use roughly ~120 or 130g total this time). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, if there is no carbonation at all after 2 more weeks, you could move the beer back to a bottling bucket and re-pitch some more yeast along with the new priming sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with whatever you choose. Let us know how it turns out! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8339" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T16:04:13.913" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:04:13.913" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14712" CreationDate="2015-02-09T01:08:26.233" Score="1" ViewCount="3268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew my first mead one month ago. I've put 1 dose of honey for about 3.5 of water. Ended up with a 2 liters of must in a pet bottle. I've put 10 grams of yeast (the entire sachet).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Since i started, one month has passed and apparently there is no more fermentation.&#xA;So i siphoned it from the pet bottle in two glass bottles.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I just took a sip of the mead and i noticed a very distinct taste of yeast.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What can have happened? Did i put too much yeast? Or is it normal and the taste of yeast is going to fade after i siphoned it from the main container?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10822" LastEditorUserId="10822" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T13:56:07.167" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T18:15:11.940" Title="What can have caused my mead to have the taste of yeast?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|mead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4417" CreationDate="2015-02-09T01:33:50.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its probably a good idea to do the test when you first go to all-grain using malted barley but once you are dialed it might be optional.  HOWEVER, certain malted gluten free grains, such as millet and buckwheat for example, do not readily self convert.  You can either do complex step mashes to achieve this, or do a simpler single infusion mash and add enzymes (alpha amylase) and in this case yes you want to know definitely if the conversion did indeed occur.  So, no its not pointless either way you look at it but it might be optional if your experience makes it so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8412" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T01:33:50.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-09T02:28:17.557" Score="1" ViewCount="18859" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just wondering if anyone could tell me whether or not I should keep feeding my ginger bug or start over. It was bubbling nicely the first three days, but now it seems to have gone flat. It still has a pleasant smell and doesn't appear to have any mold on it, so I'm kinda tempted to drink it/make a de-carbonated soda, and start over again fresh. Do you think it will recover if I just keep feeding it/burping it? Also, can I just drink it straight or do you think that will make me sick? Anyway, thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10823" LastActivityDate="2020-08-22T20:41:56.300" Title="Did I kill my Ginger Bug?" Tags="|ginger|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14697" CreationDate="2015-02-09T07:51:16.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finishing around 1.020 isn't really a problem, many yeasts won't go much further than that, depending on the fermentability of the wort, available nutrients (and temperature and water quality and whether you played Bach or Beethoven to it...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real question is, how does it taste? If it's still sweet/bubbling/cloudy/foamy give it another week. If it's dry and not bubbling and not foamy and clear and the gravity has not changed for three days, bottle it. Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But don't chuck it unless things go really badly - like horrible weird flavors or mushrooms growing on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T07:51:16.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14697" CreationDate="2015-02-09T14:21:36.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's your target FG? If you're off just a point or two, don't sweat it. If it's supposed to be 1.012 or something, try gently rocking your fermenter to bring your yeast back into solution. You might also try moving your fermenter someplace warmer if it's below 70F. You can also try taking a half-cup or so of table sugar, dissolving that in some warm water and adding it to your beer to try to jump-start your fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get it to drop any further, go ahead and bottle it, but keep your bottles in a plastic tub just in case you get any bottle bombs. I definitely wouldn't dump it, it's just a stuck fermentation, your beer is fine (just a little sweet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T14:21:36.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14707" CreationDate="2015-02-09T18:15:11.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you add any yeast nutrients or raisins to the must?  Honey and water sound like a feast for your yeast, but it is really like trying to eat three square meals at an ice-cream parlor.  There is no real nutrition available.  The normal practice with meads is to fortify the must with some packaged yeast-nutrient.  The ancient practice is to throw a few raisins in.  Both techniques work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you ever see any signs of fermentation?  What were the starting and final gravities of your mead?  It is not surprising that all of your fermentation is done after 30 days, but back in the first week, were things bubbling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there was, then you are probably okay.  Mead provides an amazing testimony to the power of conditioning.  I have never tasted a one-month old mead that I liked; but I have considered discarding many young batches which later mellowed out and became truly wonderful after 9 months to a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there was never any fermentation, then what you have now is old honey water with yeast in it.  This could be the result of using processed honey which might still have some chemical preservatives in it.  It is odd for honey to have preservatives in it, because &lt;a href=&quot;http://newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/gen01/gen01338.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;honey doesn't spoil&lt;/a&gt;.  Still, I have occasionally found (and steered clear of) bottles of discount honey that contain additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T18:15:11.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5681" CreationDate="2015-02-09T19:35:16.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using an Immersion Whirlpool Chiller, so a pump to recirculate the wort, and accelerate the thermal exchange. Consider a tap water between 24C to 28C (75 to 83F), and an environment temperature of about 26C to 30C (80 to 86F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To chill about 20L (5 galons), I use only the tap water until I reach about 45C (113F) collecting all the hot water that exists from the chiller to reuse in cleaning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From 45C I stop the wort recirculation, and I switch the chiller exit to a little repository of about 5L (1 gallon), so I start to recirculate (using an another pump) the same water that exits the chiller and so, I start to add ice to it. The cold water (smelted ice) near 0C (32F) is pushed inside the chiller by a pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never tried to add additives (like alcohol) to reduce the ice melting point and have a water below 0C (32F). I think it isn't necessary, because we need to wait some time to settle the solids in the kettle, after turning off the wort recirculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I estimate about of 30L (8 gallons) of water collected (never measured) during the chilling. But, all is reused, so doesn't matter much for me if is 30 or 50L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T19:43:29.013" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T19:43:29.013" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-02-09T19:35:16.457" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5266" CreationDate="2015-02-10T03:03:31.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did the experiment suggested in the comment by Denny Conn, above, using cocoa powder (as I'm developing a recipe for a chocolate mead).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used 3/4 c tap water and measured the SG right out of the tap and with 0.15 oz cocoa powder mixed in (same ratio as using 16 oz cocoa for a 5 gallon batch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The readings were taken within a minute of each other, so is probably not a factor between the two readings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plain Tap Water: 1.002&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cocoa Slurry:    1.006&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the opaque nature of the cocoa slurry made an exact reading difficult, so I'd put that at ±0.002.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it looks like suspended particles &lt;strong&gt;DO&lt;/strong&gt; impact the SG. For my purposes, I'll be adjusting my SG reading -0.004 to account for them in the initial reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll have to wait and see what the mead looks like when I take a final reading and decide if it needs adjustment as well (as most of the suspended particles will have fallen out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T03:03:31.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-10T04:21:29.380" Score="1" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long can I keep a beer in the secondary before it won't be able to be bottle conditioned? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell if it has been too long and need to pitch fresh yeast to bottle condition?  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2982/how-long-is-too-long-to-condition-a-beer-in-secondary-without-having-to-pitch-bo&quot;&gt;This question gives a general answer&lt;/a&gt; but the answer is a general guideline.  Do I just put it in the bottle and hope?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, there would be some yeast still in suspension for quite a while and I would be able to condition but it would just take longer.  I am looking for a more specific way to make the determination other than waiting and opening flat bottles of beer for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3419" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T22:51:07.220" Title="How long is too long in the secondary?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-02-10T13:32:55.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-06T22:07:52.690" Score="0" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finished brewing my first batch ever and when we tried it today for the first time it had a flat and unpleasant after taste which I can only describe as lack of taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Description of the brewing. The beer spent 2 weeks in the bottles might that be the reason ? Should it be longer ? What controls the after taste of the beer ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10816" OwnerDisplayName="Van Der Kan Tor" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T09:15:31.577" Title="Brewing beer - Flat unpleasant after taste" Tags="|brewing|taste|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-10T16:35:39.290" Score="3" ViewCount="3085" Body="&lt;p&gt;ok my question is this i have bought a cider kit on the instructions it says to bottle after 7 days or when it reads 1010 on the hydrometer , my OG  was 1072 and i have left it for seven days and it is now reading 1030 i have kept it at a constant 18 celsius . The only one thing i have done differently is add an extra pound of cane sugar to up the alcohol content , should i wait longer to bottle it or can i bottle it now??? &#xA;Thanks in Advance &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grant&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10826" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T22:17:53.317" Title="Is my Cider ready to bottle" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14718" CreationDate="2015-02-10T16:50:23.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on my 3rd batch myself.  Patience is hard.  1.030 is not done.  do not bottle.  Some 1.1xx high OG starting gravities end in the 1.02x's, but 1.07x is not quite in that league.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wait two days, take another reading, and make sure the OG keeps dropping.  Patience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style27.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; a cider judge would use to 'judge' your cider if you competed it, browse it to get an idea on what some cider styles 'should' be doing.  I know, rules are meant to be broken, but you did start with a kit.  I'm pretty sure the kit will try to follow the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;regardless of style, bottling before fermentation is done leads to extra CO2 pressure.  Read &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/14692/should-i-be-worried-about-my-bottles-exploding&quot;&gt;this other question&lt;/a&gt; to get an idea what you need to do if you do bottle too early. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10728" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T16:50:23.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14718" CreationDate="2015-02-10T17:19:08.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most ciders – especially with sugar added – are almost entirely fermentable sugars. As such, you should expect your final gravity to be close to 1.000, if not below for a lower-gravity OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.030 is almost certainly not finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IME, without aggressive nutrient addition and/or very warm fermentation temps, cider ferments take at least 3 weeks, if not a couple/few months; let it ride. Patience and Time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T17:19:08.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14697" CreationDate="2015-02-10T19:13:30.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Target FG is 1.008 and it's currently slightly over 1.020.  It's sweet, still cloudy, not bubbling.  Gravity hasn't changed since about a week ago.  I don't know that bottling it now would allow for there being much of an ABV.  Temp is down around 68 which should be fine for a pilsner lager/ale yeast (wouldn't it???)  I might try to throw a bit more priming sugar in it and see if the fermentation will start up again.  I did swirl the wort in the fermenter last week to try to bring the yeast back into solution but apparently it didn't work.  Would you recommend maybe pitching another batch of yeast into the carboy to see if that will bring the SG down a bit more? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10814" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T19:13:30.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14725" CreationDate="2015-02-10T19:36:58.563" Score="3" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm living somewhere possessing and trading alcoholic beverages is illegal and that is why I'm making my own. I can find some russian beers here which according to what is sated on the can, they contain 0.5% alcohol and they do not have any preservatives in them. Since also special kinds of yeasts are not available here, I'm using normal baking yeast. So, what is did was purchasing some of those russian beers and pouring them into a container and I mixed some sugar with warm (20 c) water and added the yeast to it. I left the sugar water for a while and it started foaming then I added that to the container (yesterday) and put it aside. Now the beer in the container is like boiling and it is bubbling too fast. It's been fermenting for exactly 24 hours and I wanted to know how long I have to leave it like that, and how much alcohol can I expect to be in there. Just tastes a little and it really tasted cool, it not bready and it already tastes real beer but can taste alcohol very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10827" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T01:00:52.850" Title="First time making beer" Tags="|beer|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14718" CreationDate="2015-02-10T22:17:53.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dont Panic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;First 18C is a little on the cold side which is good for cider as it will reduce off flavours but will extend your ferm time, if its stopped bubbling take some hydrometer readings at 24 hour intervals, if the reading doesn't change then fermentation is finished.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Your original gravity was high due to the cane sugar most likely so I wouldn't be surprised if 1.03 is your final gravity. Fermentation could have stopped because the alcohol content was too high for the yeast or because all of the available sugars have already been converted.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;It's worth noting that sucrose is not as easy for yeast to breakdown so your cider may end up quite sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10828" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T22:17:53.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14599" CreationDate="2015-02-10T22:42:00.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an interesting question, however I suspect there is no good answer because of the number of variables involved you would have to factor in reactions, precipitation, flocculation as well as additions of new ions from the grains and hops. Its also quite difficult to determine the exact concentration of various ions in your water supply. So why not determine the ion concentration after the boil (even though it will most likely change again after fermentation) if you are not determining it yourself then I would suggest you stick with your approximate formula.&lt;br&gt;(7.5/6)*1.36 = 1.7g/gallon of CaSO4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10828" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T22:42:00.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14722" CreationDate="2015-02-11T01:00:52.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a typical 5% ABV beer, brewed between 16 and 20°C, allow 10-14 days for fermentation to stop, and few more days for the yeast to clear. But using bread yeast might get you a different result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with about 10% sugar you would expect to get a 4-5% beer, but your yeast might have other ideas and quit before it gets that far. After the bubbling stops, if it's too sweet for your taste, you can try adding more yeast. Just don't shake up the beer, it will mess up the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side question - is the russian beer there for the hops or does it have malt too? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck, I hope it works out for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T01:00:52.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-11T01:23:52.877" Score="1" ViewCount="1757" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time brewer here. Me and my girlfriend received a home brew kit for Christmas.  The recipe called for 2 lbs of liquid malt extract and three lbs of dry malt extract. Along with hop pellets and a little irish moss. after putting the wort into the fermentation bucket and a week later I came to realize I mistook the 3 lbs of dry malt for 3 lbs of dextrose (corn sugar).also bubbling has ceased. Any suggestions or ideas on what we should do? are we going to get bottle bombs? Should we ferment longer? Please help! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10830" LastEditorUserId="10830" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T01:48:34.580" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T01:49:18.900" Title="I added too much dextrose to my wort" Tags="|wort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14726" CreationDate="2015-02-11T01:49:18.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No need to worry about bottle bombs as long as you let it finish fermenting. With so much sugar, the yeast probably lacked a lot of nutrients it would have otherwise normally gotten from malt, and it may taste a bit 'cidery' or 'champagne-y'. If you had caught it right away I'd probably have recommended adding some extra yeast nutrient to the fermenter to help minimize the stress on the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's only been a week, it's not too late to add some/half/all of the DME if you have room in the fermenter (just dissolve in as little water as possible, boil, cool and add) to try and add some more malt flavor to the beer, though it will dilute the hop character of the finished product. If you do this, you'll have to let this new sugar ferment for, say, another week. Do note that this will, proportional to how much you add, &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; increase the alcohol percentage of your beer, but might be worth it for the benefits to flavor. That's really up to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, there's no harm to just bottling, drinking and chalking it up to experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T01:49:18.900" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2015-02-11T14:45:29.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used spent grains for making white bread into brown bread (I add a couple of tablespoons of the grain to a white bread mix).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also tried feeding it to a friend's horses, but they are too posh and just stuck their noses up at it :p&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I give my grains (about 40kgs per brewday) to a local sheep farmer. He mixes it with a bit of salt and they absolutely love it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T14:45:29.050" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-02-11T14:45:29.050" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13202" CreationDate="2015-02-11T14:58:27.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done many brews in 5L mini-kegs, but only the brightening (secondary) fermentation, not the primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really (REALLY) have to make sure the primary is finished before you keg it (I leave my 50 litre brews for a full two weeks in primary), then I add 9 grams of priming sugar directly into the wee 5L kegs, top 'em up sat on a scale to weigh the contents as I fill. You can get a top valve with a pressure release, but I have never bothered. These kegs are seriously strong. I kegged a bit early once and they bent right out of shape, still didn't explode or anything, but scared the hell outta me when I saw them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have got a bit too much pressure in them when you open it, you can always pull the spindle out of the keg until it is only a cm or two in, then bleed off the excess gas and refill it with fresh CO2 from the tap-server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, google &quot;politainer barrier&quot; made by Promens in Germany. This is a bag/box affair similar to what local apple juice is served from. I now use these &quot;Cask Ale Boxes&quot; as I call them instead of the mini-kegs as you can just bleed off the pressure, and/or try a bit, straight from the integrated tap. They come in many sizes and work out a 1/4 of the price of 5L mini-kegs (if you use a 10 litre politainer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T14:58:27.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14732" CreationDate="2015-02-11T15:12:00.617" Score="5" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;Morning all,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just getting into re-using my yeast and have a question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wash it as per the YouTube advice that I found (haha) and it seems to store pretty well so far. I have tried it in one batch so far and I put in about half of the yeast I got out of a previous brew, (which was a huge amount more than I put in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brew in 50 litre batches, so what would anyone recommend/guess as a good amount of yeast to pitch into this amount of beer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally use 2 x Wyeast smackpacks and my English Pale Ale I am using the recycled yeast in, is generally about 1058.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I put in the same amount as with fresh yeast? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers for any thoughts! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T10:55:25.377" Title="How much recycled yeast to use?" Tags="|yeast|pitching|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14731" CreationDate="2015-02-11T16:53:23.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the calculator at www.mrmalty.com.  It gives you a way to calculate the amount of slurry to use.  BTW, it's generally recognized there is no advantage to rinsing your yeast and could even be a source of contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T16:53:23.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14734" CreationDate="2015-02-11T17:37:25.017" Score="4" ViewCount="3757" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use glucose in place of brewing sugar, at any stage in the brewing process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is my first ever attempt at brewing so I'm a little clueless I'm afraid)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently making a beer kit and had a 1KG bag of brewers sugar to fill my bucket. That's been bubbling away for a few days now and I've just realised I need more sugar for the keg. I went to a local beer making shop to pick up what I thought would be a standard product for a beer making place to have, however the rather batty lady who served me said in the 45 years she's run the shop she's never once had it in stock as it's not needed and apparently no one has ever asked for it before. Instead she gave me a bag of glucose - it was only a couple quid so I took a punt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is she right and that it doesn't matter, or shall I pick up some brewers sugar online? I've read topics about different forms of sugar and I just can't find the answer to this specific question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10837" LastEditorDisplayName="user8292" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T17:41:04.157" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T17:41:04.157" Title="Can I use Glucose in Place of Brewing Sugar?" Tags="|brewing|sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14733" CreationDate="2015-02-11T17:59:56.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is Yes, I think you're fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that by &quot;brewer's sugar&quot; you mean Corn Sugar, which is the most common type of sugar used in brewing, usually used as priming sugar (for carbonation). After reading your post a few times, I'm thinking what she gave you actually IS corn sugar. See this excerpt from &lt;a href=&quot;http://everything2.com/title/Homebrewing+204%253A+Alternative+Sugars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Corn sugar/syrup: Probably the most common of the sugars we'll be discussing, corn sugar is made up almost entirely of glucose/dextrose. It will ferment completely, contributing more alcohol content than a similar amount of malt extract, and will lighten the body and flavor of the brew. Corn sugar will also ferment very rapidly, and will thus shorten the time your beer will need to spend fermenting. The most common use of corn sugar is as a priming sugar during the bottling process. For more details, see Homebrewing 104: Bottling and Carbonation. If you're using corn syrup, make sure it is pure corn syrup, and doesn't have any flavorings or preservatives added (as storebought corn syrup often does).&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this bag of glucose just a bag of white powdery stuff that looks like the original brewer's sugar you were given? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it seems to be a common thing among owners of homebrew supply stores to be rude or condescending to people who don't know what their talking about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8339" LastEditorUserId="8339" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T18:11:00.980" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T18:11:00.980" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14736" CreationDate="2015-02-11T21:01:14.493" Score="4" ViewCount="3177" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something I've always been paranoid about is if the alcohol escapes through the airlock if I leave the liquid as-is for weeks after the fermentation have stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I lose alcohol level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10838" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T14:31:49.040" Title="Do alcohol vapor escape through the fermentation / air lock?" Tags="|airlock|alcohol-content|alcohol|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14735" CreationDate="2015-02-11T21:50:12.550" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, you may be losing an &lt;em&gt;absolutely, immeasurably tiny&lt;/em&gt; amount of alcohol, but it would have to vaporize from the beer, absorb or condense into whatever liquid is in your airlock and then vaporize out the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But practically speaking (which is what's really important) you'll never have to worry about this in an air-locked vessel. If it were open, maybe. But you should never leave your beer open to air anyway. So it really is a non-issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T22:03:08.020" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T22:03:08.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-12T01:49:01.687" Score="4" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping to get some confirmation on what is probably a stupid question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to rack a chocolate coffee milk stout and am going to be using nibs for the first time. I understand soaking them in vodka for ~2 weeks is ideal for a lot of reasons so that is the route I've gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is- do you add in all of the soaked nibs + vodka? Or do you drain the vodka and only add in the soaked nibs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10839" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T12:51:24.280" Title="Nibs and vodka question" Tags="|stout|chocolate|nibs|vodka|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14737" CreationDate="2015-02-12T02:27:22.147" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to add either all of it, or just the vodka. A lot of the chocolate flavor will get leached into the alcohol so you don't want to toss that. I'd say add it all if you're going into secondary, since you'd rack it again, or just the vodka if adding it at bottling time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A benefit of this technique is that it lets you remove any fats from the chocolate that &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; otherwise be detrimental to the beer's foam quality. This is done by freezing the vodka/nib mixture (or, strain it first) for 12-24 hours, after which you can skim the fat (which freezes) off the alcohol (which doesn't). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-02-13T12:51:24.280" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T12:51:24.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14735" CreationDate="2015-02-12T02:50:08.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does alcohol vapor escape via the airlock? Yes, it does; however, the amount that escapes is negligible in terms of affecting the alcohol level in the fermenter. If you go up to the fermenter and smell the top of the airlock as the primary begins to settle down, there is a very distinct scent of alcohol among the other aromas of breadiness, malt and hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about it this way, many many people, when primary fermentation has run its course, will rack the now beer from the primary fermentation vessel and into another fermentation vessel to do a &quot;secondary&quot; fermentation to allow the remaining suspended yeast to work a little bit more magic and more so to allow for the remaining yeasts and proteins to flocculate out and settle on the bottom. This stage, if one uses it, is also the time when one would add finings such as gelatin, isinglass, etc... to help force the clarification. Depending on the recipe, style and personal habits, the beer could be in seconday for anywhere between a week and a month! And even then the quantity of loss of alcohol is still negligible; even when it is a high SG and low FG recipe and therefore high in alcohol content. Personally, I have brewed beer where I did the primary ferment, followed by the &quot;secondary&quot; of 1.5 weeks and during that time I used gelatin to clarify and knock out of suspension remaining yeast and especially to help rid the brew of chill-haze proteins. In addition, I nearly always use Irish Moss near the end of the boil for that purpose as well (unless I am brewing a hefe-weizen, a witbier or some other naturally hazy style.) Then after that 1.5 weeks in &quot;secondary&quot; I racked the beer over some medium toast oak chips and let it sit on those for a couple months! Even after all that time, my finishing gravity did not change from when I tested it right before I racked it to secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in summary, it is not enough to be concerned about. I forget who to properly attribute this to, but... Relax, kick back, have a home brew :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10840" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T02:50:08.733" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9974" CreationDate="2015-02-12T03:21:38.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I use either distilled water or vodka. However, star-san is perfectly acceptable to put in an airlock, it isn't going to hurt the fermenting beer sitting below it. In fact, as I understand it, yeast actually LIKE smallish quantities of star-san and that is one of the several reasons to &quot;not fear the foam&quot;&amp;trade; Now, there is one potential downside that I can see to using star-san in the airlock and it comes back to the foam. Unless you keep a close eye one it and be sure to keep adding more, it will wind up frothing heavily and coming up out of the top of the airlock. I did use star-san in the airlock once for the duration of the primary... and due to having to be vigilant about topping it up, I went back to distilled water or vodka.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10840" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T03:21:38.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9974" CreationDate="2015-02-12T03:51:24.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The actual sanitation qualities, when used as air-lock liquid, between the sanitizing solution you have on brewday (StarSan + water) and vodka are pretty much the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opinion - if you've had a lifelong fantasy of doing something and it's not very expensive, I'd say the benefits outweigh the costs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8339" LastEditorUserId="8339" LastEditDate="2015-02-12T11:28:26.623" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T11:28:26.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9974" CreationDate="2015-02-12T13:49:07.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not that it matters much, but the answer is VODKA, with the caveat that neither are as superior to water as you might imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;StarSan concentrate works by lowering the pH of the water its added to. However, when you add StarSan to any water that isn't completely distilled, and is exposed to oxygen, then the StarSan starts breaking down, and the pH of the solution will slowly rise to &quot;normal&quot; levels where bacterial growth isn't inhibited. If your StarSan solution gets cloudy, then that means that its no longer sufficiently acidic to work as a sanitizer. If you put normal water + StarSan into an airlock, within a day or two it will be cloudy, and therefor only as effective as plain water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vodka has the advantage of being 40% ethanol, which will inhibit bacterial growth as well, but it will also slowly loose its ethanol to evaporation over time. I'm not sure how long this will take, but eventually you'll be left with nearly-pure H20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food-grade glycerin is the best choice if you want a liquid that won't evaporate out of the airlock after a few months of neglect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T13:49:07.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9974" CreationDate="2015-02-12T13:49:20.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything works since it creates a barrier to microbes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you are a beginner, some incident can occur and the fluid can be dripped inside the fermenter (over your beer), so prefer something that cannot spoil your beer, like water (dechlorinated), alcohol (ethanol), diluted StarSan, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T13:49:20.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14687" CreationDate="2015-02-12T15:10:38.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can recommend the 13 gallon Braumeister50 (50 litres). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combined with it I also use a 15 gallon (70 litre) saucepan (on a gas ring) that I mashout into for the boil/chill cycle which allows me to reload the BM50 for another mash giving me 26 gallons of liquid paradise in a nine-hour brewday. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have yet to have a problem with it after some 30 or so brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T15:10:38.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14737" CreationDate="2015-02-13T12:12:29.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would taste what you have extracted first to see if you like it.  Making a tincture (in a solvent like ethanol/vodka) doesn't always result in the same flavor profile as if you had simply racked onto the raw nibs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to pull a sample of the beer then dose drop wise some of your tincture into it until the flavor is right.  If you find a good magical combo there is no reason to secondary on the tincture, just at the right proportion to the whole batch at bottling/packing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't like the tincture taste don't add it.  Perhaps get new nibs and age some beer in a one gallon growler on nibs to see if that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T12:12:29.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-13T14:51:42.250" Score="3" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/14731/how-much-recycled-yeast-to-use&quot;&gt; question&lt;/a&gt; suggests yeast shouldn't be washed, is that really the current consensus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what if I'm brewing a different style? Won't the trub affect taste? Lots of hop residue there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry hopped beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is yeast in this case harvested from Krausen, primary or secondary? I usually only do primary, so lots of residue in the trub.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T22:41:25.813" Title="Should yeast be washed or just stored in the beer?" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|harvest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14748" CreationDate="2015-02-13T16:30:38.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the current consensus is don't bother rinsing (homebrewers almost never truly wash) the yeast.  I have verified this for myself over the course of hundreds of batches.  There is no advantage to rinsing the yeast and it's just another point where you could contaminate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) I have never found the trub to have any effect on the next batch.  When I use whole hops, they get filtered out so there are no hops in the trub.  But when I use pellets, they go through my pump and into the fermenter and consequently, in the trub.  Still no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) Dry hopping is best done after removing the beer from primary yeast to prevent undesirable interactions between yeast and hops.  In that case, dry hops will have no bearing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.) Primary yeast is the best bet for repitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T16:30:38.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14748" CreationDate="2015-02-13T22:41:25.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree that yeast slurry shouldn't be 'washed' (&lt;em&gt;purified&lt;/em&gt;, really) in general. I think it's all about how you go about it and what you want to accomplish. If it's done right, in a sanitary manner, it's perfectly safe and will allow more consistency and predictability in your finished beer. Storing under cold water over long periods is better than beer for yeast health, too. Personally, I don't like the idea of generations-old trub and hops going from brew to brew, but I'm overly paranoid about stuff like that most of the time anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the real issue here is the work-to-reward ratio. Basically, do you want to go through all this trouble when you won't see any real, appreciable improvement in quality? Because you probably won't. It's one of those things where, at home, on the five or 10 gallon level, there are so many other confounding factors to consistent beer that this alone won't make the difference. If you have, say, physiologically healthy yeast, predictable pitch rates, wort compostion and oxygenation, reliable temperature control, etc., &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; storing and/or pitching crap in with your yeast becomes important to consistent outcome. But unless you have those other things under control, you just won't see a difference that &lt;em&gt;wouldn't&lt;/em&gt; be within the limits of variability anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I hate to see what I'd consider slurry purification discounted in general, though I do agree it's entirely dependent on what exactly &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; want to do with your brews. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T22:41:25.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14754" CreationDate="2015-02-14T00:04:49.960" Score="5" ViewCount="609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a 5 gallon all-grain strawberry blonde ale. I'd like to leave it for two weeks in primary, then rack on top of frozen strawberries in secondary. Would anyone have an estimate of how many pounds I could use for a nice, subtle flavor that doesn't overpower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T17:24:01.977" Title="How many pounds of frozen strawberries in a Strawberry blonde?" Tags="|all-grain|secondary-fermentation|fruit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-14T05:48:30.260" Score="2" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my $25 solar pump working and it can only do 1.7GPM. I poured water equal in amount to that which is normally in my kettle after boiling, turned the pump on and it did not come even close to that which I do by hand for 30 minutes during the cool down period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Update - I tested it out tonight. By hand, it takes 30 minutes to chill to 72F. With the 1.7GPM pump, it took 37 minutes. I was expecting it to be much worse. Hopefully this does not imply that I am only 7 minutes stronger than a 1.7 GPM pump!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Update - I'm definitely doing something wrong. The last 4 batches have taken 45 minutes to cool the wort down to 72F. Perhaps there is a better way to angle the outlet hose which I haven't figured out how to do yet with sanitized rubber bands)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that the Chugger has 7 GPM, and know that people use it successfully for wort recirculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US Solar has a 3 GPM pump on Amazon for $70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the minimum GPM required for a reasonably efficient pump used for wort recirculation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T21:21:03.503" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T22:36:48.187" Title="How many Gallons Per Minute does a Pump used for Wort Recirculation Require?" Tags="|pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14751" CreationDate="2015-02-14T15:26:28.213" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good starting point for fruit additions in 1lb/gl. Strawberries are pretty subtle, though.  I added 7.5lb to 5gl of blonde this summer, and the flavor was easily noticable without being overpowering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T15:26:28.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-14T16:33:10.910" Score="6" ViewCount="757" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a porter and a stout, both sitting in carboys and both have reached their desired FG reading.  However, I'm not able to keg them for another 2-3 weeks because I'm still waiting on a CO2 system, so I'd like to just leave them in the carboys until then.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Am I better off leaving them at their normal fermentation temperature range (between 65F-70F), or should I move them into our basement which is currently quite cold (45F-50F)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10852" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T16:55:59.500" Title="Best temperature to store carboy after fermentation is complete?" Tags="|temperature|storage|carboy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14755" CreationDate="2015-02-14T16:55:59.500" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warmer temperatures will allow the yeast to continue its work, cleaning up the beer. Colder temperatures will promote yeast flocculation which helps to clear the beer. It'd suggest leaving the beer in the fermentation temperature range for a week or two after the final gravity has been reached, and then moving it to the cooler basement to help it clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T16:55:59.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9270" CreationDate="2015-02-15T12:24:25.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Classic Cream Ales which are an American contribution to the world of beer have use flacked maize or corn as a staple ingredient for three centuries. It started out as a way to brew when barley was in short supply and expensive cutting the cost of the Grist. Cream Ales are generally lighter, less ABV, and refreshing. They do have a slight background hint of the corn. Mostly they are smooth and delicious with low IBUs. I have several recipes I've come up with over the years and the maize is usually about 25 to 30% of the Grist. Try one some time you will enjoy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10853" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T12:24:25.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14758" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-15T15:42:26.033" Score="2" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are going to brew a Maibock next weekend and would like to substitute the whirlpool with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://himmlischerteeversand.eshop.t-online.de/Riesen-Tee-Ei-aus-Edelstahl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a metallic tea bag&lt;/a&gt; that holds the hops (pellets) while boiling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We tried a smaller metallic tea bag with boiling water and the finest parts of the hops mixed well, while the thickest parts were retained inside the tea bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the fermentation keg we have another filter in place anyways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a good/bad bad idea? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did someone already try this and can share their experience?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10854" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T00:42:31.850" Title="On using a stainless steel tea bag to hold the hops while boiling" Tags="|hops|boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14758" CreationDate="2015-02-15T19:50:31.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the total volume of the &quot;tea bag&quot; thing is sufficiently large for the hops and wort to mix freely I am sure its fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall though its generally totally unnecessary to strip all the hop matter out. It will usually settle fine when fermentation is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2015-02-24T00:42:31.850" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T00:42:31.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14751" CreationDate="2015-02-16T17:24:01.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a Strawberry Saison last Summer and the 1lb/per gallon was a nice subtle flavor, but I think I may raise the to 1.5 pounds next time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I used frozen strawberries which I gently crushed.  Let them thaw a bit at the bottom of the secondary and then racked on top of them.  The beer was able to use all of the fruit this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T17:24:01.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4788" CreationDate="2015-02-17T03:32:36.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crosby &amp;amp; Bakers Distillers Active Dry Yeast is made by Red Star the same maker as Red Star Active Dry Bread Yeast. The amounts are 0.0125-0.25 tsp per gallon of wort. In laymens terms that's 1/8-1/4 tsp per gallon. Since your making beer to drink you'll use the 0.0125(1/8)tsp per gallon, the 0.25 or 1/4 tsp is for making still beer for distillation. In high sugar washes yeast nutrient should be used and not yeast energizer, big difference!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10863" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T03:32:36.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14758" CreationDate="2015-02-17T17:36:37.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell how fine the mesh is, but I think there'd be a good chance by the end of the boil, the metallic tea bag would be empty.  In my experience, hop pellets end up dissolving into a sludge.  The particulates are small enough that the tea bag may not contain them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd instead go with a fine mesh bag.  Re-usable, cheaper, easier to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8330" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T17:36:37.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14764" CreationDate="2015-02-17T18:17:46.893" Score="2" ViewCount="3303" Body="&lt;p&gt;Granted these are different techniques, there seems to be a line where Pale Ales start to become more bitter and hoppy and IPA-esque.  The thing is that Pale Ales don't usually list thier IBU on the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence the question; does anyone know about where Pale Ales end and IPAs begin, with regard to bitterness at least?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11865" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T18:34:49.220" Title="What is the IBU cutoff between a Pale Ale and an IPA?" Tags="|ipa|ibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14763" CreationDate="2015-02-17T18:34:49.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Referring to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/catdex.php&quot;&gt;BJCP Style Guidelines&lt;/a&gt;, the following is true:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style08.php&quot;&gt;English Pale Ales (ESBs)&lt;/a&gt;: 25-50 IBUs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style10.php&quot;&gt;American Pale Ales&lt;/a&gt;: 20-40 IBUs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style14.php&quot;&gt;IPAs&lt;/a&gt;: 40-60 IBUs for English, 40-70 IBUs for American, 60-120 IBUs for Imperial IPAs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this, the answer to your question should be in the 40+ IBU range to differentiate bitterness between pale ales and IPAs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind these are guidelines and not gospel. Generally, the BJCP style guide is a great starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8418" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T18:34:49.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14735" CreationDate="2015-02-18T01:48:40.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wort would have to reach a temperature of 174-178f(as this is the temperature range at which ethanol vaporizes) to lose any amount of alcohol worth worring about and thats not going to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10863" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T01:48:40.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12586" CreationDate="2015-02-18T14:03:41.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making beer, wine, or mead, there is nothing that you can't not sanitize. It takes all of 5-10 minutes to stir up a batch of One-Step or Star San and sanitize your equipment, and it pretty greatly reduces your chances of contamination (assuming proper handling of the equipment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the alcohol content &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; kill bacteria, sanitizer &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T14:03:41.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5539" CreationDate="2015-02-18T14:06:59.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My last malt extract batch of red ale has very similar &quot;soapy&quot; off flavor.  The beer is still very drinkable and I do enjoy it but that bitter/soapy after taste is there. I at first just thought it was a hoppy taste but this is not a hoppy beer so that may not be the case.  I feel confident that it is not a real &quot;soap&quot; taste. I use one-step for a cleanser and star san for my sanitizer and don't rinse either but all the research I have done on this tells me it shouldn't produce any off flavors.  I said all of that to say this... I used tap water with no additives and our tap water has a very high chlorine taste out of the faucet, so my batch that is fermenting now I used a brita charcoal filter on the tap to try to eliminate that. If chlorine isn't the culprit, I really think it is the yeast.  I'd appreciate any other opinions as well.  Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11867" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T14:06:59.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12548" CreationDate="2015-02-18T20:29:41.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this question keeps getting bumped, I thought I'd have a go at it. Here are a few relevant points from the literature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Malt has slightly less fat than unmalted barley:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Up to 4% of the dry weight of barley is lipid and 3.4% in the case of malt.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(corn and oats may both reach 6+%)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;30% of the lipid content of barley grains disappear[s] during germination.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give you an idea of what happens to this fat during the brew:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;[Lipids] tend to associate with insoluble components of the mash, and therefore they are largely lost with the spent grains and become associated with hot and cold breaks.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Rapid wort-separation techniques are liable to give worts containing elevated levels of lipids&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;The method of separation of sweet wort from spent grains has the most significant effect on wort lipid content [...] just 0.3% [of malt lipids are released into the wort] in the case of a mash tun.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(Up to 4.5% of malt lipids can make it into the wort in rapid-separation systems)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;[Up to] 91% of wort lipids in the [boil] were deposited with the trub in the whirlpool&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From breweries surveyed, total lipid content of worts ranged from 10-140 ppm, depending on the wort separation method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(quotes taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=QpDVsu-vaBcC&amp;amp;lpg=PA1&amp;amp;dq=brewing%20yeast%20and%20fermentation&amp;amp;pg=PT74#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=brewing%20yeast%20and%20fermentation&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Brewing Yeast and Fermentation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=k-9JAAAAYAAJ&amp;amp;q=scientific+principles+of+malting+and+brewing&amp;amp;dq=scientific+principles+of+malting+and+brewing&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=U-3kVNjnLo37sATRtILwBQ&amp;amp;ved=0CBsQ6AEwAA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scientific Principles of Malting and Brewing&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=s9tf70Wk3bYC&amp;amp;printsec=frontcover&amp;amp;dq=malts+and+malting&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=H-vkVM32JYawsATW_ILwCw&amp;amp;ved=0CBQQ6AEwAA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Malts and Malting&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can see how little of the fat content tends to make it into the wort from raw materials, and most of that is eliminated before fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T20:29:41.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14771" CreationDate="2015-02-20T20:01:29.293" Score="1" ViewCount="1882" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just about to embark on my first brew with my dad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He mentioned that he may include half a tea spoon of sugar into each of the bottles to prevent it becoming flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are other suggestions to avoid adding processed sugar to a bottle whilst still maintaining that liveliness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;------- Edit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11855/do-i-always-need-to-add-sugar-when-bottling&quot;&gt;Do I Always need to add Sugar when bottling?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the duplicate post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T21:11:04.947" Title="Bottle conditioning beer without sugar" Tags="|ingredients|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-03-11T00:30:42.657" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14770" CreationDate="2015-02-20T21:11:04.947" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully I can add something here, making the answer non-duplicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to 'need to add sugar', it is much better to let the yeast ferment everything that they can in the beer, and then add a measured amount of additional sugar. The other choice is to try to predict where the yeast will actually stop, which requires accurate measurement of sugars, great familiarity with your yeast, and every other variable like temperature and yeast health being totally consistent. So, almost nobody bottles with the intent of carbonating from the original fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beside making additional carbonation, the sugar that your father mentioned will result also perk up the yeast a bit so they can consume oxygen that got into the bottles. In this way, the added sugar is actually protecting the flavor of your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to what kind of sugar you use, or how you add it, there are several choices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It terms of how, I suggest boiling a measured amount of sugar and stirring it into the beer with gentle stirring. This sanitizes the sugar and will be very consistent if you stir enough. Don't worry about getting a little into suspension, it will fall out soon enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of the choice of fermentable sugars there are many to choose from: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corn sugar (refined, mostly glucose, sold as 'brewer's sugar', 100% fermentable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table sugar also works (refined or not, mostly sucrose, ~100% fermentable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Honey (100% fermentable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dried malt extract (less than 100% fermentable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wort from your next beer (variable fermentability)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fruit, candy, whatever...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount you'll want will depend on the style and/or your preference, but expect 100-200g of fermentable sugar in a 20L (5 gallon) batch. 1.25 cups of DME is an popular way to keep it all malt (see any Papazian book).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T21:11:04.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12589" CreationDate="2015-02-21T03:42:57.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having 20% headspace is a good idea, but not necessary as &lt;a href=&quot;/users/6825/hourofthebeast&quot;&gt;HourOfTheBeast&lt;/a&gt; pointed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's perfectly fine to make a concentrated wort. I'd recommend pitching twice the amount of yeast to ensure fermentation goes well.  The main concern here is making more alcohol by volume than the yeast can handle. S-04 should handle 10% and you'll probably only be making about 8.5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Irish stouts are generally roasty, dry affairs.  The coffee flavours in your beer will be more pronounced and there may not be a lot of sweetness to balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you could consider is fermenting the concentrated wort and diluting at bottling time. If you use a 19L bottling bucket you could take your 12L of fermented beer and add ~6.5L of boiled water (along with your priming sugar) to make the full 19L of finished beer.  Should come out a little more balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T03:42:57.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14586" CreationDate="2015-02-21T04:13:37.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You're probably not getting fermentation in the bottle.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;make the ginger tea/syrup in a stainless steel pot&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are you doing in this step?  If you are boiling to make a syrup you are killing the ginger plant (bug).  It won't be around to make CO2 when you bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Stir, then immediately bottle the contents.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you also adding (boiled) sugar at this time?  There may not be anything for the ginger plant to eat and turn into CO2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To answer the rest of your questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does contact with stainless steel or other metal kill it? Including the strainer, spoons, pots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does using distilled water instead of filtered water affect it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably not. It probably needs some trace minerals for long-term health, but it may have access to them from the lemon juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the chlorine from tap water affect the bug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite possibly.  It is added to kill microorganisms.  If your tap water actually has chlorine, simply boil and cool the water to drive it off.  If the water is dosed with chloramine instead you'll need to RO filter that out.  If you still see activity after dosing with tap water you're probably fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've seen so many different recommendations for the type of sugar used, from white sugar to unrefined sugar to rapadura, does any of that make a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doubtful. Sugar, unrefined sugar and rapadura are all mostly sucrose, which is really easy for &lt;em&gt;Saccharomyces florentinus&lt;/em&gt; to metabolize. The more &quot;unrefined&quot; the sugar the more flavours will be left behind after the yeast and bacteria are done with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I live in a cold climate this time of year, does that matter? It seems to start Ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Fermentations will be slower, but won't kill off the microorganisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can too much sugar kill it, in the same way that sugar often helps canned preserves avoid botulism?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably not. However, eventually the yeast and bacteria will be swimming around in their excrement.  They're making alcohol and lactic acid and the more sugar, the more they'll make... until they make enough to be toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Stirring is meant to agitate a bug while cultivating it, but at some point does it hinder instead of help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the amount of water used to start the bug matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all likelyhood, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T04:13:37.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14778" CreationDate="2015-02-21T15:12:21.903" Score="1" ViewCount="621" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am still new to brewing: First attempt with Christmas gifts used a refill kit that turned out to be partial - resulted in stout that tasted fine but is very weak. Second attempt is due to be bottled later this morning. This second attempt is a &quot;North of England&quot; brown ale LME / grain kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been reading quite a bit from John Palmer's &quot;How to Brew&quot; which seems to be a pretty complete guide, and I'm reading a lot about water. I've managed to get the local water reports (Irving,TX - water supplied via Dallas). Using the calculators inside the back of the book, I'm coming up with a mash pH of 5.7-5.8. This seemed a good match for a brown ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the mash with brewing pH strips (as I'm starting out, I'm wary of investing in too much expensive equipment upfront - I can get a pH meter later if necessary). Okay pH strips aren't the most accurate, but I came up with a result more in the 5 - possibly 5.4 range. This is way off the bottom of the scale in the book!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my question is, is it possible the mash was really that low? Or are the papers really that inaccurate? Of course the mash was a brown colour (as were the indicator colours), and the papers have a 0.4 resolution in the scale indicator. Could mash temperature have influenced the reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, the kit was 50/50 Amber and Dark malts with speciality grains mostly Caramel (3/4th) and lesser (1/8ths) special B and chocolate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking forwards, I plan to brew quite a few English porters (a type of beer I like), but will not start these until Autumn (however much I like a good porter, they're not for a Texas summer!). I'm assuming I should adjust the chemistry for these?&#xA;Before that, I intend to brew paler beers - I've just ordered an ESB kit, and after that I was thinking of more of a summer pale ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T23:56:41.563" Title="Was my mash pH okay? Should I be adjusting it?" Tags="|water|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14777" CreationDate="2015-02-21T15:32:41.130" Score="0" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the moment I'm sanitizing bottles by submerging them in sanitizing solutions (and letting them fill of course), and then running them through the dishwasher with no detergent/etc. The dishwasher doesn't have a 'sanitize' option so this last stage is probably superfluous...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I probably need to buy a bottle tree to store the bottles. Would it be okay to sanitize the bottles a day beforehand? or should I really keep to doing it a matter of minutes /hour before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm physically washing the bottles shortly after they are opened and are still wet)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T16:05:15.300" Title="How long can bottles be considered sanitized?" Tags="|sanitation|bottle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14776" CreationDate="2015-02-21T16:05:15.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, it's unnecessary, as you concluded, to do both of those things. Each individual step (dunk in sanitizing solution OR running through the dishwasher, &lt;em&gt;sans detergent&lt;/em&gt;) effectively sanitizes the bottle, one by chemical, the other by heat. Sure, doing both is technically an extra-safe and cautious move, but pointless in my opinion. Neither is sterilizing, and either is plenty effective alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend sanitizing in solution too long before use. Maybe a couple hours is fine. However, if you sanitize in the dishwasher you can do it the night before, no problem. You're effectively sanitizing the whole inside of the dishwasher by running it, so if you leave it closed the bottles should stay sufficiently sanitized in a nice safe place. Leaving bottles on a bottle tree overnight in the open air might let air currents deposit weird stuff up inside your bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T16:05:15.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14775" CreationDate="2015-02-21T16:40:11.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your pH was right on.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The optimal range for alpha- and beta-amylase is 5.1 to 5.5. See the &quot;mash target&quot; bubble in this image from &lt;em&gt;How To Brew&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8c14R.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Mash pH, Temperature &amp;amp; Enzyme Activity&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T16:40:11.343" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2015-02-21T17:17:31.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We did some fruit pale ales last year with dehydrated fruit. We have a dehydrator and dried the fruit at 165 to kill off baddies and sealed it up till use. We did pineapple, kiwis, strawberries and chili peppers, non had any infection, even 6 months after. So it's an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the strawberry tasted amazing! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11882" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T17:17:31.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-22T16:54:41.900" Score="0" ViewCount="1026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been chatting with my local city water tech.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Based on what she sent me, the numbers work out as...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pH- 7.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ca- 20.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mg- 12.6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K- 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chloride- 5.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SO4- 11.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hardness (CaCO3)- 103&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alkalinity(CaCO3)- 99.6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bicarbonate (CaCO3)- 123.3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess they can all be rounded to the next higher or lower number... :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is.. for brewing a dark beer.. I want to try Jamil's Robust Porter.. and later, an Oatmeal Stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the high(er) Bicarb, do you boil, cool and siphon to reduce the number?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or would you do an acid addition to the total water?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or would you do any dilution and add salts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or build your water from RO?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or do you do nothing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given any choice.. what YOU would do.. THEN what would you add as salts for that water for the dark beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you simply built your water from RO, what would you add for 5g of all-grain?&#xA;Or, if  you simply added &quot;x&quot; ml of Phosphoric or Lactic Acid.. what would you then do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10855" LastEditorUserId="333" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T16:42:36.997" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T00:46:41.487" Title="Water For Robust Porter" Tags="|water|stout|porter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14782" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-22T23:30:18.363" Score="0" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just brewed for the first time. After bottling,I noticed the air lock, which I hadn't removed, was missing its water. I'm assuming the week-old air lock water was sucked back into the brew as I was filling bottles from the bottom. Could this contaminate the brew? Should I throw it all away and start again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11886" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T01:05:01.093" Title="Effects of air lock water back-flow" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14782" CreationDate="2015-02-22T23:53:27.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If that is indeed what happened, it might introduce some bacteria that could give you off-flavors, but it won't make it unsafe to drink. I'd at least wait and see how it turns out. If you try a few bottles a few weeks down the line and they end up being nasty you could consider tossing it, or turn it into vinegar or something. But beer is a hostile environment for a lot of bugs and you might end up with something perfectly drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this is exactly the kind of contamination you strive to avoid as it can make your beer taste quite a bit less than ideal, but this batch may not fare too poorly, especially if you drink it sooner rather than later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T23:53:27.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14781" CreationDate="2015-02-23T00:45:06.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do you want to balance the Bicarbonate? Most things I've read say that a very alkaline water is great for darker beers. Here's one source (of many):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-2.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T00:45:06.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-23T05:34:02.693" Score="2" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;As there is no secondary fermentation when brewing in kegs as you use CO2 gas, how do you calculate the added amount of sugar in the brewing process to achieve the same end result.&#xA;Sue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11888" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T10:46:50.843" Title="Home brewing in kegs" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-23T06:13:32.300" Score="2" ViewCount="4096" Body="&lt;p&gt;My roommate grabbed 14 gallons of organic cider on sale. Turned out they had Potassium Sorbate in them though. A little research online indicated that it was still possible to make hard cider with it though. I made 2 gallons by mixing a gallon of an already started batch (zero preservatives, organic cider that I have used many times before), with a gallon of the new stuff. It came out pretty okay. I drank one gallon, and then took the other to a friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Satisfied that the mixing gallon trick worked, I proceeded to start a 5 gallon bucket batch. I also tossed in some pectic enzyme I had received for Christmas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second gallon I had made first was really yeasty, so my friend let it age. It got very tart and tangy but really tasty. After we finished it off, I checked back on on the 5 gallon batch. I drew a cup of it, and it was disgusting. Perhaps I didn't cold crash it enough and I was getting too much sediment, but it tasted awful and made me sick to my stomach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let it sit for another couple of weeks but it still tastes awful. It's been fermenting for about 2 months total. I've decided to take everything out and bottle it, and then see if there's anything I can do to fix it. Any advice (other than adding non-fermentable sugars)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any black film on it, it's still a bit cloudy, but I don't imagine it's bacterially contaminated, at least I hope not. It's no big deal if it is, it was cheap cider, but I'd like to save it if I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8526" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T08:19:15.547" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T21:42:13.877" Title="How do I improve some sour hard cider brew?" Tags="|cider|sour|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14781" CreationDate="2015-02-23T09:57:38.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly I am assuming that the figures you give are metric (which they probably aren't) ie mg per litre and so you will have to convert if not. secondly the target water profile is just a suggestion, the formulae allow you to get to any profile you decide to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General target water profile for stout: Ca100 bicarbonate 100-200 cl 300 so4 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;therefore. for sulphate we use Target - actual x volume/0.56/100. so assuming a brew length of 25 litres.&#xA;100-11.5 x 25/0.56/1000 = 3.9 grams CaSO42H2O to be added (note 0.56 because CaSO42H2O contains 56% Sulphate and 23% calcium)&#xA;same equation for chloride&#xA;300-5.4 x 25/0.64/1000 =11.5 grams CaCL2&#xA;for the calcium we have to add the calcium in the two additions above to the calcium present in the water and then see if this is sufficient, or if more is needed. So&#xA;target(300)-Actual(20) x volume (25)/1000 = 7grams required &#xA;from Calcium Sulphate addition 3.9gx0.23 =0.69grams&#xA;from calcium Chloride addition 11.5g x 0.36= 4.14 grams. SO 7-(4.14+0.69)=4.83 calcium still required. so using the formula you add the required amount via the  Calcium sulphate or calcium chloride. (for stout 1 would use both to keep them roughly in the proportion of 3:1 Chloride Sulphate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you had to adjust the alkalinity you would use the formula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(actual -taget x volume/Alkalinity factor of the acid used ie 185 for Brewpac CRS) =mls of CRS/lactic/etc acid to be added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful rather than just more confusing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11889" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2015-02-24T00:46:41.487" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T00:46:41.487" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14791" CreationDate="2015-02-23T11:00:27.763" Score="3" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;After finishing the boil and chilling the wort for my all grain batches I find I always have a large volume of gunk left of the bottom of the pot. I'm sure it's just spent hops and other solid bits from the mash, but it's so thick yucky looking I have not been adding it to the fermenter. The problem is it's a significant part of the batch, ends up being around 4l of a 19l batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is should I just dump it all in the fermenter and let it settle there, or is leaving it behind the right thing to do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11890" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T11:04:08.293" Title="Gunk in bottom of all grain boil" Tags="|all-grain|boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14786" CreationDate="2015-02-23T11:01:16.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When serving beer from a keg, there is no need to add sugar after fermentation, as you mentioned, no secondary fermentation occurs so it is not needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, you set the pressure of the CO2 in order to obtain the carbonation required at the serving temperatures. I personally use BeerSmith to calculate this value for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11868" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T11:01:16.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14789" CreationDate="2015-02-23T11:04:08.293" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This gunk is what's known as &quot;trub&quot;, and it is proteins left over from the hot and cold breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The experiment conducted here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2014/06/02/the-great-trub-exbeeriment-results-are-in/&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2014/06/02/the-great-trub-exbeeriment-results-are-in/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;seems to show that it doesn't really matter whether it's included in the fermenter or not, but most people still remove it/don't add it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11868" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T11:04:08.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14787" CreationDate="2015-02-23T15:11:28.543" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you may have accidentally made vinegar instead of alcohol. Depending on the type of yeast you used, the amount of oxygen in contact with the brew, and the amount of sugar added the yeast may have ended up consuming the alcohol and turned it into vinegar. If this is the case you are pretty out of luck, there's not much you can do to my knowledge to fix that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11892" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T15:11:28.543" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14781" CreationDate="2015-02-23T16:57:51.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would leave this alone (mostly).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are no red-flags in the water report.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bicarbonate and alkalinity are moderately well suited for a stout.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to tip the sulfate / chloride ratio toward malty you only need 1.5 to 2 &lt;em&gt;grams&lt;/em&gt; of CaCl to do it. (Do you have a scale sensitive enough?)  Put this in at the beginning of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T16:57:51.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14796" CreationDate="2015-02-23T22:58:35.577" Score="1" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first homebrew, so I'm totally in the dark as to what to expect. However, I was told by my LHS that I should see a lot of fermentation activity after around 4-12 hours. The brew itself is an Irish stout using Wyeast Irish Ale strain, I made sure to let the bag swell before pitching so I'm fairly sure that the yeast was viable. The temp is around 68-70 F. Currently (hour 14) there is a very small (1/4 inch) layer of krausen, but no bubbling from the airlock. Wondering if it will ever get going or if I should just chuck it and start again. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11894" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T15:34:28.517" Title="14 hours after pitching, little to no activity. Is it ruined?" Tags="|fermentation|krausen|help|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14795" CreationDate="2015-02-23T23:10:11.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You actually &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; observed the most important sign of active fermentation, which is the kraeusen. Guarantee you've got a leak somewhere in your fermenter causing the airlock not to push. It's rarely worth judging the state of fermentation based on airlock activity anyway, as it's often very likely to lead you wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion: you're fine, do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; chuck it. Just let it do its thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T23:10:11.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14782" CreationDate="2015-02-24T01:05:01.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might also consider using a sulphite solution, or PGA or vodka in your fermentation lock. Don't, for heaven's sake, toss the beer unless your taste buds tell you to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T01:05:01.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14753" CreationDate="2015-02-24T01:11:46.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/377-build-a-recirculating-wort-chiller-projects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This BYO article&lt;/a&gt; on how to build a recirculating wort chiller should help with the mathematics of your situation; the calculations should work equally well for wort or water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3876" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T01:11:46.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14800" CreationDate="2015-02-24T14:19:56.497" Score="2" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making apple cider, beer or white wine, in order to more easily clear up the liquid, can we put our yeast in a tea bag or a piece of cloth so that the alcohol would be produced inside of it and then released into the liquid with causing minimum cloudiness and sediments? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10827" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T14:57:25.447" Title="Putting Yeast in a Tea Bag" Tags="|beer|fermentation|cider|wine|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14799" CreationDate="2015-02-24T14:36:37.010" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will not work with a tea-bag or any other kind of cloth. Unless it's enclosed in a very fine membrane the yeast would easily be able to get through, then disperse and propogate in the main liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, something like this can actually be done. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/yeast-immobilization-magic-beans-fermentation-404698/&quot;&gt;Some homebrewers&lt;/a&gt; have taken a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15932239&quot;&gt;high-technology cue from industrial beer&lt;/a&gt; and do what's known as an &lt;em&gt;immobilized yeast&lt;/em&gt; fermentation, where the yeast cells are trapped in an inert membrane, allowed to ferment wort, then are left behind when the beer is transferred away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this offers almost exactly what you're looking for (yeast entrapped in a meduim so that they can still ferment and be fairly easy to remove after fermentation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-02-24T14:57:25.447" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T14:57:25.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14690" CreationDate="2015-02-24T16:42:03.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally yeasts are pretty sensitive to high levels of oxygen and high temperatures (Obvious when you fail to cool your wart before adding yeast - one of the many benefits to owning a wart chiller). Early in my brewing I attempted to split my yeast twice, once successfully to both primaries and once where it only worked in the first primary. Although, my sample is small, in the fridge it lasted a month. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard that you can store it in the freezer for up to 6 months (I guess this happens in baking), but I can not speak on experience with this in brewing. Nor do I recommend do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead I would suggest taking some brew off the top of your previous as it should be only be a few generations old. Look into &quot;repitching techniques&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/grains/item/739-harvesting-yeast-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/grains/item/739-harvesting-yeast-techniques&lt;/a&gt;. It's a fairly common technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11897" LastEditorUserId="11897" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T15:18:02.540" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T15:18:02.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14808" CreationDate="2015-02-24T18:26:48.650" Score="4" ViewCount="5283" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 48 hours into my ferment I noticed a significant amount of liquid (about an inch) is missing from my airlock. Reading up on the subject I've realized that water was probably sucked into my brew due to a temperature change overnight.  I used plain, unsanitized tap water to fill my airlock so I'm worried my batch could become contaminated.  The water level on my airlock (three piece style) has dropped to just below the little holes near the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean my airlock is no longer providing a seal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how long it has been sitting like that so thats another worry for contamination.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I refill it with more tap water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried that if I do more water could be sucked in, providing more chance for infection.  Sorry for all the questions first batch here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11895" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T13:28:01.323" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T13:28:01.323" Title="Water level low on airlock. Is it contaminated?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|airlock|contamination|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14802" CreationDate="2015-02-24T18:28:21.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No problem on either the water getting sucked in or the low level.  Just add more water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T18:28:21.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14775" CreationDate="2015-02-24T23:56:41.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the vast majority of your fermentables are coming from extract, pH isn't something you need to worry about. pH and heat are extremely important factors for mashing, but if you're using extract and specialty grains, you're not really mashing in the same sense. When you actually do start AG brewing you'll find that the grain addition tends to drop the pH to that sweet spot area anyway, barring something really wrong with water treatment. (Not sure how DFW does it, but all my mashes in Austin were spot-on without treatment.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3876" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T23:56:41.563" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14786" CreationDate="2015-02-25T02:15:58.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are referring to keg or cask conditioning, the rule of thumb from Papazian's Joy of Homebrewing is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1/3 cup corn sugar per 5 gallons. ... Excessive foaming will result&#xA;  from the normal rate... The keg is then sealed and set aside for 1-2&#xA;  weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(At room or cellar temps, NOT in the fridge.) Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T02:15:58.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14810" CreationDate="2015-02-25T04:56:24.197" Score="2" ViewCount="1167" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the point in &quot;burping&quot; a keg right before force carbonating it? When the co2 hits the keg during carbonation it is going to provide a protective blanket to any air above it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am confused about this practice and I believe it is redundant. I can't offer evidence because I always burp the keg myself. :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to serve cask ale at home with a beer engine and not have oxygen spoil your beer there is a device which can be connected to your co2 tank which will shoot a burst of co2 into your keg each time the beer engine is pumped and oxygen is shot into your keg. This co2 will protect your beer from the oxygen and this way you can have cask ale at home without having to finish it all in one go. The fact that this works should be reason enough that burping is unnecessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of videos showing this device:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cfe7-2LVmrc#t=4m4s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Engine at home - Jump to 4:04&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnqvDLxwk3w#t=5m40s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Northern Brewer Cask Ale video - Jump to 5:40&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is the device on Micro Matic:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/cask-conditioned-dispensing-pid-CASK-B.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cask Breather&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T14:09:22.490" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T14:09:22.490" Title="Why do people purge kegs before force carbonating?" Tags="|kegging|oxidation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14823" CreationDate="2015-02-25T05:24:49.907" Score="5" ViewCount="3663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting a bit confused with adding fruits or berries into mead... Some recipes suggest adding it into the secondary (like purés). On other side there are multiple videos of people fermenting fruits and berries in the primary...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there like a general standard or guidance? For example I have fresh apricots, frozen black currant berries and a can of strawberry puré. When I'm making a mead, when do I use those?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, guys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T20:36:33.113" Title="When to add fruits or berries into mead?" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14802" CreationDate="2015-02-25T06:03:40.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your beer will most probably not be infected. Yeast are quite aggressive at this point in the fermentation and will kill any bugs that fell in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use vodka in my airlock. It guarantees that no bugs will get into my beer! :) I have used my sanitization solution before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just fill your airlock to the line (usually about halfway) and you are good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another note the airlock is there for a few reasons; primary being keeping bugs out, secondary to provide an escape for the CO2 that the yeast is producing. The CO2 will provide a blanket on top of the beer and also protect it to a degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T06:03:40.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14563" CreationDate="2015-02-25T06:47:30.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine tasted a big batch right before a party and realized it had gone sour. His wife convinced him to serve it anyway and act really proud, so everyone assumed it tasted that way on purpose!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also once read the advice: if you brew a beer and don't like it, add some fruit juice and everyone that tastes it will assume it's &quot;one of those weird lambics&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize: use it up at a party. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8426" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T06:47:30.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14806" CreationDate="2015-02-25T13:56:39.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because that's not how gasses work. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gasses in a space, especially under pressure, are going to come into an equilibrium, a homogeneous combination. While during active fermentation, or for a brief period of time after off-gassing CO₂ the (heavier) CO₂ will form some sort of layer/&quot;barrier&quot; on top of the beer, after time or once pressurized, that will not be the case. CO₂, O₂ and other gasses will become uniform, and the beer will be exposed to O₂. Purging/burping the keg vents this combination of gasses, reducing the fraction of O₂ remaining. Purging a few times will further reduce that fraction of O₂ remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't speak to cask/beer engines, but I don't have any reason to believe this is not true there, either. I suppose the idea is to have little/no carbonation. Even still, I would opt to replace the keg head space with very low PSI CO₂, rather than O₂.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T13:56:39.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14795" CreationDate="2015-02-25T15:34:28.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Franklin's answer, I would also say that if you are seein an active kraeusen with no airlock activity this early in fermentation it is fairly likely you may have a leak in your fermenter.  Not knowing what you are using, I can tell you this has happened to me with plastic buckets.  You should check your seal and make sure you have a good tight fit.  This should not be a large risk while active fermentation is producing a good deal of CO2, but once fermentation slows you run the risk of introducing a bug through your lid.  Push on the lid and make sure it is seated, you can also spray the seal area with some starsan and see if you get any bubbles. At this phase of fermentation I would expect if you had a leak you would hear or see evidence of a leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11901" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T15:34:28.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14807" CreationDate="2015-02-25T16:34:02.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the folks that I know who make mead add the fruit into the primary (a lot of the sugars will ferment in primary).  You can taste it when you rack it over to your first secondary and add more fruit as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T16:34:02.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14814" CreationDate="2015-02-25T16:42:39.713" Score="1" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning an upgrade to my 5 gallon setup to do 10 gallon batches. In BeerSmith, I've created an equipment profile to estimate my pre-boil volume. Assuming 1 gallon evaporation per hour (I know this is high, but I'm being conservative), and 1 gallon lost to trub, BeerSmith tells me I will have a pre-boil volume of 13.46 gallons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Canada, so my buying options are limited. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/16_Gallon_Stainless_Steel_Advanced_Brew_Kettle_p/brew-kettle-16gal-advanced.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This kettle&lt;/a&gt; is a good deal, but has a capacity of only 16 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I boil 13.5 gallons in a 16 gallon kettle, or will I be fighting against boil-overs every brew day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T21:41:17.020" Title="Can I make a 10g batch with a 16g kettle?" Tags="|boil-kettle|batch-size|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14813" CreationDate="2015-02-25T16:47:37.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I regularly do 10gl batches in a 15.5gl keggle. You will definitely need to attend to the kettle while bringing it up to a boil to prevent boil-overs, but it's certainly possible. Also, foam-control agents (Fermcap-S, simethicone/baby gas drops) will help, but are not fool-proof prevention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note: you need a lot fewer BTUs to maintain a boil (and denature the proteins that will cause boil-overs), so you can get pretty far by &quot;just&quot; dropping the flame down once you start to see the boil form and the first signs of boil-over. After 15 minutes, you can start to ratchet the BTUs back up to get a solid, roiling boil, but without the boilover danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T21:41:17.020" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T21:41:17.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-25T23:20:00.500" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to bottle my first mead and went looking for corks online, but all the suppliers I'm used to only have corks with grapes on them. Minor cosmetic consideration, I realize, but is there anywhere to just buy plain corks w/o design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10691" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T14:30:45.950" Title="Where to buy corks without grapes on them?" Tags="|bottling|cork|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2503" CreationDate="2015-02-26T03:22:45.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could not walk by... Expect to make the best mead in the world. In any outcome, repeat the action and again expect to make the best mead in the world (even if your previous one was already the best mead in the world).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, don't be afraid to experiment. Maybe do small batches, like 1-2 gallon. It is faster on aging and easier to make... and if something goes wrong, there not many regreats on waisting honey, because you might need 15-18lbs for 5 gallon batch... 4-5 for 1.5 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, the biggest screw up I made was using aggressive yeasts (WLP099) with low original gravity. I was making black currant melomel, and it seemed that all the honey was completely fermented... At the end I've got 5 gallons of 18% alcoholic beverage without sweetness at all with slight taste of black currant. After that I was very careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb is... try it, if you like what comes out, great! As of today, I have 4 complete meads... one turned out not so great... Two of them I could enter into Mazer Cup, but out of 10 gallons I only have 4 bottles left... Mean while I have 7 or so different meads in secondary (using 1 gallon jars). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T03:22:45.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14802" CreationDate="2015-02-26T15:08:45.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I typically use sanitization solution diluted with a little bit of water in case of this situation, but you shouldn't really have a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8466" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T15:08:45.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14821" CreationDate="2015-02-26T16:37:56.423" Score="1" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is a follow-up to the original one regarding the effect on boil size on IBUs.&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3625/effect-of-boil-size-on-ibus&quot;&gt;Effect of boil size on IBUs&lt;/a&gt;)&#xA;I understand that the boil gravity tends to lessen the utilisation of hops and the extraction of alpha acids, because the sugars are just taking up the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what would be the risk / downside of boiling hops beforehand in (near) water (none or small amount of brewing sugar / malt added), then letting the hopped water cool down and adding malts, or malt extract? In particular, would it not just make a lot more sense, when brewing with an unhopped malt extract, to simply boil hops in a small amount of water with a just little bit of extract added to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate a specific case:&#xA;I have an unhopped malt extract, hop pellets, and a pot of only 6 litres for boiling them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also very importantly, how would one calculate the IBUs when implementing such a procedure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3877" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T17:43:25.867" Title="Effect on a low gravity boil size on IBUs in the final batch" Tags="|boil|extract-brewing|hop-utilization|ibu|alpha-acids|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14820" CreationDate="2015-02-26T17:43:25.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a bunch of factors to consider here. To name a few:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you mention, zero to very little gravity will tend to increase the utilization rate as there will be less competitive inhibition from wort sugars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boiling in water alone will mean a higher pH (as malt phosphates, even in extract brewing, would normally react with hardness in/added to the water to naturally lower wort pH). Of course the exact pH of the boil will depend on your water supply, but high pH favors the dissolution of iso-alpha acids and will also increase utilization rates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Mg&lt;sup&gt;++&lt;/sup&gt; ion catylizes the isomerization reaction and should be more abundant in water than it is in wort (where it would react with phosphates [see above]). Higher levels, therefore, will favor more isomerization, and again increase utilization.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will lose out on good hot-break formation, which is largely malt-derived protein agglomerating with malt/hop-derived polyphenols and precipitating as trub. Trub is known to carry iso-alpha acids out of the wort with it (hence its bitter taste), so once more your utilization will go up. You might also experience haze problems in your beer because of the unprecipitated malt protein (which only matters if you care about hazy beer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Iso-alpha acids stick to yeast cells in fermentation, so if you're giving your yeast wort with very high leves (and this is not specific to this case, but a general occurance) it may not preform as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that calculating IBUs is going to be near-impossible outside of either relying on sensory evaluation of the finished beer or sending a sample to a lab for verification. One thing you can obviously say, though, is that the utilization will be significantly higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, remember that along with higher levels of iso-alpha acids you should see higher levels of other hop resin byproducts, not all of which are pleasant to taste. I've often read reports that over-utilization of hops in the kettle leads to a less agreeable hop flavor in the finished beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, the &lt;em&gt;risks&lt;/em&gt; might not have such negative impacts on your finished beer, and at the very least you could probably correct your utilization numbers by trying this procedure a few times and adjusting accordingly by taste. If it ends up being something that's convenient for you, why not go for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T17:43:25.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14822" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-26T17:55:39.967" Score="3" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using kegs as fermentors and 'no chill' vessels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With pressurized fermentation I'm getting so much less sediment and krausen, and actually I purge the yeast before and after transfer, so ending with not so much thing inside the kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen people using yeast nutrients or baker's yeast on the boil to help fermentation, so, I was thinking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if I let my fermentors waiting pressurized and then fill it again with another boiling wort, what I will get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How yeast trub, break material and krausen things left by a previous batch could act in a new batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My surmise is that the boiling wort will help dissolving krausen, kill every yeast cell inside the keg, and this material will easy fall down until the end of fermentation and maybe my fermentation will be more &quot;healthy&quot; with all this nutrients. In the bargain, the cleaning of a fermentor could be skiped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you guys think?  It's worth the effort on trying this aproach or its just a badtrip inside my head? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T02:43:25.517" Title="Adding boiling wort on previous batches yeast sediments" Tags="|corny-keg|krausen|yeast-nutrient|no-chill|keg-fermentors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14807" CreationDate="2015-02-26T20:30:41.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When to add fruit is somewhat subjective and debated, but the general principle is that the later you add, the more fresh-tasting and distinct the fruit character will be. If you want a more sherry-like &quot;aged&quot; fruit character then I would say add early. Personally I prefer the fresh flavor and aroma so I add macerated fruit to secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is infection. Adding lots of fruit before primary starts could risk infection from wild yeasts since there is not yet strong competition from brewing yeast, or alcohol, which suppresses growth of most organisms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freezing fruit first is often recommended because it breaks down the cells walls in fruit, allowing the yeast to more readily access the sugars, as well as killing off most critters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6825" LastEditorUserId="6825" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T20:36:33.113" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T20:36:33.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16730" CreationDate="2015-02-27T00:08:10.043" Score="2" ViewCount="905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently tried a &quot;White Stout&quot; at Track 7 brewery in Sacramento, CA. It completely hit me off guard when I saw the color of it and tasted coffee and chocolate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to replicate, my brother and a couple friends just brewed a batch of what is now a pale &quot;stout&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current plans are to pull the yeast off about 7-10 days in and add vodka soaked cacao nibs, leaving them for the remainder of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 24 hours before racking to kegs, we plan on adding whole coffee beans to the fermenter. Idea being that the whole beans will provide the coffee flavor without imparting too much color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experimented with adding coffee and/or chocolate flavor without imparting too much color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6777" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T16:00:01.570" Title="Just brewed a &quot;White Stout&quot; - Looking for feedback on additives" Tags="|stout|coffee|nibs|srm|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14822" CreationDate="2015-02-27T02:43:25.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right that dead yeast is a good nutrient for live yeast. The growth medium used for yeast in the lab is YE (yeast extract) plus some sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This plan will probably provide some nutrition to the yeast, and work out OK for a few batches, but I think that problems will crop up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You won't actually make yeast extract. Yeast extract is made inducing 'autolysis' in the yeast - think of it as yeast suicide by self digestion (tl;dr &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yeastextract.info/yeast-extract/how-it-s-made&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://nordicfoodlab.org/blog/2012/03/practical-guide-to-yeast-extraction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). Your boiling wort will simply cook the yeast, locking most of the nutrients inside.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Protein build up: yeast don't eat proteins, they don't even secrete enzymes to break them down, they just absorb amino acids that they find in the wort/must/rotting apple. So all the barley derived proteins that go into your corny will stay there, until... who knows. Big chunks floating the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Biology doesn't miss an opportunity. Boiling is not the same as sterilization. Sooner or later something that makes nice tough spores is going to get into the corny and start eating all that yeast and protein, and your wort. That will probably smell horrible when you need to clean it out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the best thing is to embrace #3, chill the wort, and throw some brett &amp;amp; lacto in there to start a sour project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T02:43:25.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14836" CreationDate="2015-02-27T04:17:02.410" Score="0" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that stout faucets were devised as a means for emulating the cask ale experience but how close are they? Can I skip getting a beer engine at home and just get a stout faucet and beer gas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T11:48:30.367" Title="Will a stout faucet give me the same effect as a beer engine?" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14824" CreationDate="2015-02-27T05:42:07.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a tough question because most of the easy answers will earn flames from the purists.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can easily be argued that a beer that gets its flavor from vodka extracted augments is really just a cocktail that happens to use beer as its base liqour.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, if you don't mind creating the wine-cooler of beers, I'll try to help you get where you wanna go.  I think you are on the right path using vodka extraction to seperate the flavor and aromatic compounds from the color contributing parts, but I'm not sure you will want to add anything but the tainted vodka to your brew.  The nibs and beans themselves might still share color even after most of their flavor is in the vodka.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also try boiling off the extracting alcohol to strengthen the flavor of your extract and get rid of some of the harsh alcohol.  That way you can add less of it during secondary fermentation, minimizing its affect on the final color.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also try letting your extracts sit still long enough for the different compounds to seperate out into layers; then extract each with a pipette and do some taste testing.  You may get lucky and find that flavors you want are in a layer that is relatively free of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why aren't you also vodka extracting the coffee?  Seems to me that ground coffee infused into vodka would yeild a poor man's kahlua which again might be settle out into layers when left alone.  Again, with a little luck, you could find a fairly clear layer that is strong in the coffee taste that you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that all of this is advice is pure conjecture.  I have never tried any of this in my brewing.  I take tremendous pride in the flavors I craft into my home brew.  Artificial flavorings and extracts have always been an option, and have sometimes been a very tempting option when a recipe fails; but so far, I've managed to avoid these questionable practices and still produced more than a few mighty fine tasting brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T05:42:07.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14830" CreationDate="2015-02-27T09:22:23.843" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that I'm all grain I've done many experiments regarding differences in grains, trying to make 2 batches identical in every way except for one variable with the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I just learned via brewersfriend that a yeast starter with a month older yeast than another yeast starter results in drastically different cell counts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e, with a 1.6L starter at 36 gravity using the Braukaiser equation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;75 days = 278 billion &#xA;105 days = 257 billion &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which is a 7.5% decrease relative to the younger yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, does a cell count difference of 10-20% have a material effect on the outcome of the beer for tasting purposes, and therefor invalidate any tasting experiments one may do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can always mix the yeast together before adding them to the starters, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T21:20:05.343" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T03:50:54.100" Title="Does a different cell count invalidate a tasting expeeriment between two batches, or is it immaterial?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7932" CreationDate="2015-02-27T13:25:25.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;seeing as it was added when the heat was still north of 180 you essential made coffee! But also extracted tannins from the coffee with the extreme heat. It will fade slightly over time but never leave. Don't feel bad i just forgot about a porter sitting on coffee and caco nibs for 2 month..... bitter and dirty tasting !!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11910" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T13:25:25.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14828" CreationDate="2015-02-27T18:21:14.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a lot of experiments (hence, the book Experimental Homebrewing) and I've found that for valid results you must tightly control all the variables, including the amount of yeast you pitch.  For that reason, unless yeast is the subject of the experiment, you're almost always better off using dry yeast if possible.  If you get 2 packs with the same date code, you can be pretty much assured they'll have the same amount of viable yeast.  since you don't need to do a starter with dry yeast, you don't need to worry about throwing off that cell count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T18:21:14.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14824" CreationDate="2015-02-27T18:22:22.940" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope this is not too self serving, but check out the white stout recipe is in the book &quot;Experimental Homebrewing&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T20:36:08.240" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T20:36:08.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14828" CreationDate="2015-02-28T03:50:54.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;I can always mix the yeast together before adding them to the starters, of course.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your experiment was testing something obvious, like the taste of cocoa vs coffee, that would be one thing. But for subtler differences every known source of variability will bring doubt to the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything that can be identical between the batches should actually be identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when you compare your results, triangle testing will help keep the tasters honest (I think Denny can comment on how triangle testing works).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T03:50:54.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14834" CreationDate="2015-02-28T04:53:35.783" Score="0" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good evening, home-brewing community! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm seeking a quick advise. I'm brewing (or attempting at least) a Belgium Tripel. I'm pretty solved on grains. Still trying to figure out the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I plan to put 1oz Perle @60min, 1oz Saaz @30min... and I have 1oz of Sorachi. Would it make my tripel out of style if I use Sorachi like @5 mins? Or even break by 0.5oz to dryhop my tripel with it after 6 days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T09:33:31.857" Title="Belgium Tripel with Sorachi Ace Hops" Tags="|hops|belgian|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14833" CreationDate="2015-02-28T09:33:31.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;BJCP's current draft guidelines seem to say (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2014%20BJCP%20Style%20Guidelines%20(DRAFT).pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;big pdf&lt;/a&gt;) that various types of Belgian beers in categories 21B (Specialty IPA, scroll down for Belgian Specialty IPA) or 26C (Belgian Tripel) should use European hops. In  particular, for 26C they say: &quot;A low yet distinctive spicy, floral, sometimes perfumy hop character is usually found.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in regards to 'style' it seems that Sorachi Ace isn't a good match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, we get into opinion. I think Duvel's most recent triple hop used some Sorachi Ace, so if you can get some of that beer, compare it to the regular stuff, you can an idea what it does that context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T09:33:31.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14843" CreationDate="2015-02-28T10:50:31.410" Score="1" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that is very confusing for me right now is the dynamics of when to isolate the contents and when to aerate it. Like as soon as you finish boiling it's recommended to put a lot of oxygen by shaking or stirring in order to create a good environment to the yeast. But as soon as you do this you put an airlock in the bucket for fermenting. I don't get this. I understand this is for preventing bacteria and etc contamination. But as you 'injected' oxygen for the yeast prior didn't you also put a lot of undesired microorganisms? An overall explanation of when is desired to have air in your beer and when is not a good idea is very welcomed. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T01:33:16.743" Title="Closed environment vs open environment in brewing" Tags="|yeast|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14826" CreationDate="2015-02-28T11:10:40.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the 'cask ale experience' from stout comes from the nitrogen in the beer rather than the faucet. The stout faucets that I have seen pour the beer very smooth and slowly, to compensate for the long lasting foam that would otherwise a proper pour impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer engines, on the other hand, can have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sparkler&lt;/a&gt; to maximize foam from the small amount of CO2 &amp;amp; N2 in the beer. This would be overkill if your beer is carbonated much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, you don't need a beer engine to serve cask ale, it's common to just use gravity. The beer engine is only used when the cask is far from or below the bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T11:10:40.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14839" CreationDate="2015-02-28T14:43:29.267" Score="0" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a starter for this lager we're brewing. As usual, I started it three days early, fermented at 70F and put it in the fridge after the krausen died down.  I'm sitting here on brew day thinking its a lager yeast, so crashing the temp won't necessarily floculate the yeast, so if I decant, I may pitch a good portion of the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conundrum is that the starter was made with a darker LME since I had it on hand and I don't want to mess with the clean flavor of the lager. However it is a dark lager recipe with 8oz of carafe special II so the color shouldn't be affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starter is 1700ml and beer batch is 5Gal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T15:36:59.487" Title="Should I decant my lager starter" Tags="|yeast-starters|lager|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14835" CreationDate="2015-02-28T14:54:52.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've already understood the general practice. Air (really oxygen) is needed in the wort prior to pitching so the yeast can grow and replicate.  After pitching, a sealed environment is desired.  I think the reason its OK to aerate with air (vs, say, pure O2) is that the yeast, if healthy, will usually overwhelm anything else trying grow in the fresh wort.  However, once fermentation slows, other microbes could gain a foothold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, and this is the crux of the answer, once the beer matures, O2 will hasten the breakdown (oxidize) of many of the nice flavor compounds that we all enjoy and lead to further off-flavors.  Again, without the yeast to clean the oxygen, this is a risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, there are breweries that ferment in open tanks. They generally have high krausen and/or use positive pressure rooms to keeps out beasties, but not all.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="3453" LastEditDate="2015-02-28T15:04:28.370" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T15:04:28.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14837" CreationDate="2015-02-28T15:36:59.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If possible, you should always crash and decant the bland, unhopped starter beer. But especially for lagers, where the starter volume is usually larger to get a larger cell count. At the same time, ~1.7L into ~19L is only ~10%, it won't affect the batch &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, lager yeasts do have a full range of flocculation characteristics, they're not necessarily low flocculators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've had it in the fridge for a couple of days, it should be obvious how much of the yeast has settled out based on the clarity and color of the beer. Use your best judgement in how much to safely decant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T15:36:59.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14735" CreationDate="2015-02-28T17:18:55.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alcohol Losses from Entrainment in Carbon Dioxide Evolved during Fermentation&#xA;H. W. Zimmermann, E. A. Rossi Jr. and E. Wick&#xA;+ Author Affiliations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Research and Development, United Vintners, Asti, California&#xA;Abstract&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total losses of alcohol entrained in CO2 in laboratory experiments were shown to increase with: temperature of fermentation, alcohol level of wine fermented, agitation of fermenting liquid, and presence of a pomace cap. As expected, the rate of loss of alcohol entrained in CO2 per unit of time reaches a maximum about the middle of fermentation, i.e. during maximum activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For four cellar fermentations, alcohol losses entrained in CO2 are reported as % of alcohol production at four instants during fermentation. The rate of loss of alcohol expressed in this way rises to a maximum toward the end of fermentation. No differences in losses of alcohol in CO2 were observed between the open and closed fermenters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total losses of alcohol by evaporation and entrainment in CO2 for laboratory fermentations af 26.5°C (79.7°F) were 0.65% for juice with 21° initial Balling, 0.84% for must with 21° initial Balling, and 0.16% for distilling material with 5.5° initial Balling. For plant fermentations at 25.5°C (77.9°F), the loss was 0.7% for must with 16° initial Balling. These losses are in good agreement with previous findings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11912" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T17:18:55.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14847" CreationDate="2015-02-28T18:14:43.653" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick question regarding packaging for competitions... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually samples should be submitted in 12oz bottles with caps... is it the case for Belgium styles? Some beers have to be conditioned in bottles, which may create some potential additional fermentation... Is it allowed to use corks instead of caps? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example 18C (Belgian Tripel) &quot;traditionally bottle-conditioned&quot; according to the 2008 Guidance. Should I use corks with muselets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T17:13:04.090" Title="Packaging for competitions" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|capping|packaging|competition|cork|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14841" CreationDate="2015-02-28T20:45:54.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/competitions/national-homebrew-competition/rules-and-regulations/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;National Homebrew Competition, Part&lt;/a&gt; I talk about bottle specs.  It doesn't appear to restrict the cap type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T20:45:54.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14835" CreationDate="2015-03-01T01:59:00.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The factors determining oxygenation are yeast health vs taste of the beer. Ever tasted a starter culture, or a bottle that was only bottled a couple days ago? They will be full of acetaldehyde, the cidery/green apple flavor of oxidized beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is correct that the yeast needs some oxygen for replication and general healthy-ness, but at the end of the ferment, we (the humans) want ethanol and not acetadlehyde. In the absence of oxygen the yeast (with alcohol dehydrogenase and lot of other enzymes) will convert the acetaldehyde to ethanol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the presence of oxygen, the reaction will reverse as the yeast try to make energy from the ethanol. Given enough time all the ethanol would be converted to energy, with acetaldehyde being the first step in the conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to open fermentation, it works because foam and CO2 are keeping most of the oxygen out, and the Crabtree effect: in the presence of enough sugar, anaerobic metabolism happens anyway. The important thing is that the open-fermented beer gets put in a barrel before its too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-03-02T01:33:16.743" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T01:33:16.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14932" CreationDate="2015-03-01T15:54:40.123" Score="2" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any comprehensive gluten-free brewing books? It's one thing to hack together knowledge from the many great traditional brewing books out there, but a coherent volume specifically for &quot;beers&quot; brewed without wheat, barley, or rye would be an excellent resource. Coverage of malting would be especially useful but isn't necessarily required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I'm a former homebrewer (who was diagnosed with celiac disease), so I do have a grasp of basic brewing chemistry. But I'm not a chemist by any means, and one of the reasons I found brewing books so helpful is that they did a lot of the trial-and-error and hard thinking for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6144" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T13:18:41.027" Title="Gluten-free brewing books?" Tags="|books|gluten-free|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-01T16:31:13.193" Score="1" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;After bottling my batch of Porter, I forgot it need to be conditioned at room temperature. I left it in my garage for almost a week at 45-50°. When I realized what I had done, I moved it inside the house for about 10 days. When I sampled one, I didn't have much carbonation. Now what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11913" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T17:08:30.197" Title="bottle conditioning ale below room temperature" Tags="|carbonation|temperature|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14845" CreationDate="2015-03-01T17:08:30.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be patient.  It will carb, it will just take longer.  Wait another week or so, then start sampling to see if it's carbed yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T17:08:30.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14841" CreationDate="2015-03-01T17:13:04.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being involved with the AHA and having judged national finals several times, I can tell you there are 2 concerns...first, there should be nothing on the bottle to identify it came from you.  That's not too difficult.  But with the number of entries we get these days, storage is a concern.  The reason you should use standard 12 oz. bottles and caps is so that your beers can be stored along with all the other ones.  If you use a bottle or closure that doesn't fit into a standard case, you not only screw everything up but you risk disqualification.  And really, there's no advantage for you using a cork.  Even if the judges saw it, they wouldn't care.  For everybody's sake, stick to 12 oz. bottles with caps.  If they're good enough for Westmalle, producer of the original and greatest tripel, they're good enough for us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T17:13:04.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-01T21:06:27.640" Score="3" ViewCount="2440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my first batch of kit beer that required a kind of &quot;secondary fermentation&quot;.  That is after it was done fermenting I transferred it to another carboy and added the bourbon barrel wood chips. After 4 weeks, bottled it with recommended priming sugar.  This is my first failure in brewing beer.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After over 3 weeks it has no/zero fizz.  The beer is ok but without the co2 it is not good.  Any ideas on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What went wrong? What killed the yeast?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to salvage it?  Rebottle it?  Buy a keg and co2 system and pour it in?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any advise you can provide.&#xA;Bob&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11914" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T15:30:29.383" Title="How to salvage bottled beer that failed to carbonate" Tags="|carbonation|bottle|first-time|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14850" CreationDate="2015-03-02T02:31:40.553" Score="3" ViewCount="4697" Body="&lt;p&gt;A recipe I'd like to try has a small proportion of &lt;em&gt;Honey Malt&lt;/em&gt; as part of its grain bill. I've looked around supply sites and haven't found one that supplies this malt. I'm in New Zealand, so this might be a regional difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is Honey Malt, and are there any alternative malts that I can use to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8538" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T03:30:58.987" Title="What is a Honey Malt, and is there an alternative malt to replace it?" Tags="|malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14849" CreationDate="2015-03-02T03:30:58.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a yummy malt made by Gambrinus Malting, in my home province of British Columbia, Canada.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to Brumalt, I understand that that is similar.  If not, maybe Melanoidin.  If not that, a light crystal, around 25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you say the Honey Malt is a small proportion of the bill, I don't think you can go too far off.  I've made beers with about 10% Honey Malt, and I don't think a substitute would result in the same beer with those, except maybe Brumalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T03:30:58.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14848" CreationDate="2015-03-02T14:52:47.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that there was an insufficient amount of active yeast in the beer when you bottled it. You could try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncap each bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add two or three grains of dry yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recap the bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep somewhere warm for a week or two.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibility is that the alcohol percentage in the beer is high enough to kill any yeast. If the beer is above 10% alcohol, you'll need to add an alcohol tolerant strain of yeast, instead of ordinary brewer's yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T14:52:47.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14848" CreationDate="2015-03-02T15:30:29.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also try storing the bottles upside down for a week or two.  I have had great success with this in the past.  I assume it has something to do with the smaller area for the yeast and sugar to settle.  One side note, once carbonated you'll need to turn them back over to resettle or you'll have the yeast ring around the bottle mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11917" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T15:30:29.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-02T20:57:26.403" Score="2" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that for certain recipe kits that come in both all grain or extract forms, that the directions for the length of fermentation (both primary and secondary) are generally longer for the extract kits.  Why is this exactly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11920" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T22:16:04.300" Title="Fermentation Times in Extract vs. AG Brewing" Tags="|fermentation|all-grain|extract|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14854" CreationDate="2015-03-02T22:16:04.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no particular reason I am aware of that normal fermentations for extract vs. all-grain brews should be different. Perhaps some examples that you've noticed might help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation time is mostly a function of yeast health, wort oxygenation levels, yeast pitch rate, the gravity of the beer, and temperature. While extract might generally have less essential nutrients for yeast (I'm not sure, honestly, but I could believe that to be true), the other factors make more of a difference. Notice that almost all of those are nothing to do with the source of of the wort's sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, I wish the major retailers would stop recommending &quot;secondary&quot; fermentation on their instruction sheets. It is almost never needed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T22:16:04.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14709" CreationDate="2015-03-03T04:41:21.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast/bacteria are unlikely to be dead, but may have gone dormant for a number of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you added sugar too quickly, you may have decreased the water activity too much. This is one reason honey is so resistant to microbial growth - too much solute in the liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you weren't adding ginger when you fed the bug (or your ferment is really active), the yeast may have run out of essential nutrients (other than sugar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't oxygenating the bug enough, you may have more anaerobic fermentation (which can be slower), or something may have outcompete the yeast. You'd be unlikely to smell an infection (at least of your bugs are anywhere near as potently ginger smelling as mine are).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I think your best bet would be to start a new bug, but add a little of the old one to get it kicked off (even if there's an infection, if you set it up right the yeast will win in a sugar-rich/oxygen-rich environment). And then use it sooner rather than later - you don't need a ton to get your large batch going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10691" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T04:41:21.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14709" CreationDate="2015-03-03T04:47:09.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have put my ginger beer plant through hell and it always comes back. I left it in the fridge for 2 months once and it was fine. I spilled it all over the floor and rescued a few particles and restarted it. The only thing I can find to consistently kill it is store-bought lemon juice that has preservatives. I'm sure yours is totally fine. As @kevbonham says it may be time to swap out the liquid and start fresh, or move on to a larger batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about nutrients I sometimes boil some yeast and throw it in to a batch to give it something fun to eat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general with brewing things if it smells ok it is probably ok to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T04:47:09.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13066" CreationDate="2015-03-03T05:13:26.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Monoammonium phosphate and diammonium phosphate contain all the same chemical compounds (phosphate ions, ammonium ions, and hydrogen ions), the major difference is that MAP has a second hydrogen in place of the ammonium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you buy food grade stuff, it should be totally safe to consume, however, pH is determined by those hydrogen ions, so your wine may end up being more acidic. I'm not sure on this last part (you could calculate it with the Ka of H2PO4 vs HPO4). If you don't have other options, it's worth a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10691" LastEditorUserId="10691" LastEditDate="2015-03-03T12:39:58.310" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T12:39:58.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14862" CreationDate="2015-03-03T12:38:55.203" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my first batch I was very worried about not being able to end it by not having certaing equipment at the right time. The thing is by following strictly the instructions my hydrometer reading was very close to the one predicted in the recipe. But after that I thought to myself 'why i did buy this.. i wouldn't be able to take any correction measure if it wasn't right' So, if the hydrometer it's far from the ideal density in the mashing process what could be done? And one thing related to that. If the reading shows that density it's very close to water and so you want to increase the levels of sugar in the content by increasing temperature (or cooking time), could you eventualy 'burn' your mash? Or you will only lose water? &lt;strong&gt;IMPORTANT&lt;/strong&gt;: i thing for the sake of not getting to vague in the question is better to focus on the appropriate measures for the mash process, fermenting density and other stages could be done in another topic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T13:51:29.537" Title="Hydrometer measures and possible corrections" Tags="|mash|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14863" CreationDate="2015-03-03T12:45:16.537" Score="0" ViewCount="427" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end of my first batch, i thought i had put too many hop because it was 'oily' and the flavor was incredibly strong. But now in the second fermenting day the hops seems to be very distant, almost in an ideal level. So, on a scale from 0 to 10, (0 meaning complete loss of hop flavor,aroma and bitternes) and 10 meaning complete retention of hop, how far your beer will be from the ending of mash boil to the first days and even in the end of fermenting process? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2015-03-03T14:56:18.610" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T14:56:18.610" Title="How much does hop flavor fade during fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|hops|mash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14865" CreationDate="2015-03-03T13:17:35.840" Score="3" ViewCount="5457" Body="&lt;p&gt;My beer has started smell like cider on second day. Temperature is fine and hydrometer readings normal.it looks ok too. Nothing suspicious other than it now has no head. Today is now the 6th day in its fermenter. Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11921" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T15:14:54.110" Title="My first beer brewing smells like Cider!" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14859" CreationDate="2015-03-03T13:51:29.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things to note about using a hydrometer during the mash/boil: 1/ you should always make sure your hydrometer is calibrated to 1.000 in distilled water at whatever the calibration temperature of your hydrometer is (usually somewhere around 60°F/15°C). (You only need to do this once, it should never vary over time.) 2/ The temperature of the sample &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; change the reading. At temperatures close to the calibration temperature, you can compute a correction, but once you get very far away – say up to mash temperatures – I'm not sure the simple computations will still be correct. One way to get around this is to force-chill your samples in the fridge/freezer. (Another way is to use a refractometer, which can use a wort sample so small as to cool it almost instantly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the mash (really, kettle) reading is below your target, then you will want to add sugars to raise the gravity. Some people keep extra liquid or dry malt extract on hand just for this purpose. Sugar can be used, but it is not ideal.&#xA;If your gravity reading is above your target, then you will want to remove sugars by not draining off as much mash liquor, or dilute sugars by adding water to the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're taking your gravity readings before starting your boil, keep in mind that any reasonable boil length (30-60-90 minutes) will concentrate the sugars in the kettle, which will raise the gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't apply heat directly to the mash (under most circumstances). Increasing the boil length in the kettle will evaporate water, leaving sugars behind and concentrating them. A long boil will eventually promote some Maillard reaction, leading to a slight darkening in the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if your gravity is really &quot;far from ideal density&quot; and &quot;very close to water&quot;, then perhaps something is wrong. Even a low-gravity table beer should have a gravity around 1.030, and most ales are going to have an OG around 1.050/1.060.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T13:51:29.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14860" CreationDate="2015-03-03T14:10:49.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hop bitterness is relatively stable, falling off over the course of many months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hop flavor and aroma is more volatile, falling off dramatically over the course of weeks, then more so over the course of months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want bright, high hop flavor and aroma, look into &quot;dry-hopping&quot;, where hops are added to the post-fermented beer. This is pretty much standard practice for modern, very-hop-forward IPAs and DIPAs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T14:10:49.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14861" CreationDate="2015-03-03T15:08:40.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're fine, no need to panic. Leave your beer alone for another 2-3 weeks. Seriously, don't touch it, look at it, think about it, etc. Just leave it be for as long as you can stand it, and bottle it after 2-3 have passed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the smell, fermenting beer throws off all kinds of crazy, nasty, wonderful, weird smells as part of the fermentation process. Its not uncommon to get sulfur fumes (rotten eggs) in some beers, which won't have that flavor in the finished product. Any kind of sharp, fruity, spicy smells are perfectly normal. As long as it doesn't smell like wet garbage or excrement, you're probably ok!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the lack of head, this is perfectly normal too, and that &quot;head&quot; you saw on the first couple days wasn't the true &quot;head&quot; that forms when you pour the beer regardless. What you saw is referred to by the German(?) term &quot;krausen&quot;, and its just the foamy product of the fermentation. It can come and go fast, sometimes it sticks around til bottling, but usually drops back into the beer within a couple days, leaving a much smaller layer of white/brown splotchy film on the top of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T15:08:40.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14861" CreationDate="2015-03-03T15:14:54.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cider smell can be caused by Acetaldehyde which can cause apple smells and flavours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the beer hasn't been in the fermenter long, you will notice this smell will decrease as fermentation continues, and afterwards, when the yeast will continue to &quot;clean-up&quot; these compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-2.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11868" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T15:14:54.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14907" CreationDate="2015-03-04T03:56:58.533" Score="0" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which varieties (and how much) of malts and hops should I keep on hand &lt;strong&gt;to be able to brew the greatest variety of beers without having to go to my LHBS&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarity, this is for brewing five gallon all-grain batches. Until use, the grain would be unmilled and stored in airtight containers and the hops would be vacuum sealed and stored in a freezer. The question about malts refers mostly to what selection of malts not including pale, 2-row, 6-row, and Pilsener would best supplement an existing inventory of those four base malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3876" LastEditorUserId="3876" LastEditDate="2015-03-06T15:46:40.387" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T10:12:50.767" Title="Which malts/hops (and how much) should I keep on hand for maximum flexibility?" Tags="|hops|malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2015-03-11T00:30:25.920" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14869" CreationDate="2015-03-04T06:05:39.267" Score="2" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assume one yeast pack in one starter results in double the cell count; i.e., 2x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would two yeast packs in the same exact starter result in double the cell count, i.e., 4x, somewhat close to 4x, or somewhat close to 2x?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T13:04:00.427" Title="Two yeast packs in one starter?" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-04T10:21:17.047" Score="0" ViewCount="1063" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been asked to brew for some mates that are heading to a sustainable, no glass, festival and need some advice. The only option I could find that was easy to transport and NOT glass was a 25L water container that has a tap. So...as it won't be sitting around long (4 weeks) do you think I can add the sugar normally needed in bottling straight into the water container, seal the lid and get enough pressure to carbonate or will I be sending them off with crap beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used these containers to do 2 x ginger beer primary ferments in too and was hoping to store them the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11932" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T13:59:02.937" Title="Storing beer in a 25L plastic container instead of bottles" Tags="|plastic|glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14867" CreationDate="2015-03-04T13:04:00.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increasing the innoculation rate alone will not necessarily result in a linear increase in cells. You'll have twice as many cells now competing for the same amount of sugars and nutrients, they may not be able to do as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White and Zainasheff's &lt;em&gt;Yeast&lt;/em&gt; has some empirical data about changing the innoculation rate by changing the &lt;em&gt;volume&lt;/em&gt; of a starter, with a fixed 100bn cell White labs vial (around page 140-142). I'll not reproduce it all, except to say that there's an innoculation rate &quot;yield curve&quot;, showing the number of new cells created for a particular volume and thus innoculation rate. It's roughly an inverted parabola with a flattened &quot;top&quot;, with a yield factor around 3.4 at 200mn/ml, plateauing between 7-8 from 150-50mn/ml, then starting to drop back down to 6.5 at 25mn/ml, to 5.3 around 13mn/ml.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;starter calculator&lt;/a&gt; to play around and see what rates are computed when changing the pitch rate and volume, independently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T13:04:00.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14868" CreationDate="2015-03-04T13:59:02.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems the problem you have is with being able to keep pressure in a controlled way. If the only issue what the container you could always use a PET carboy or something similar. There is no way this could be made to handle the amount of pressure a normal beer would be carbonated at; both in the wall of the container and the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would therefore be, get a &lt;strong&gt;keg&lt;/strong&gt;. If you do not own one, find somebody that could lend it to you and put a picnic tap on it. It do not think the beer would last 4wk with a picnic tap, but neither would it in a plastic jug. Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11898" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T13:59:02.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14872" CreationDate="2015-03-04T16:00:06.047" Score="3" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to try a hop tasting in an attempt to get a handle on the main varieties of hops.&#xA;I already have some US Fuggles left over from the ESB that is currently fermenting. I note the same supplier also has UK Fuggles. Is this going to be a useful comparison? Ie. is there a real difference for different locations but the same variety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it all marketing? I.e. I'm going to mainly brew English beers so I should use UK East Kent Goldings, UK Fuggles, etc so that I can boast that it is made from Real English Hops even though it will taste the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T00:17:07.383" Title="Is there such a thing as hop terroir?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14871" CreationDate="2015-03-04T16:59:41.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There absolutely is a difference. You can see it in the natural variability of hop crops from year to year. Growing conditions (moisture, soil composition, nitrogen, sun, pests) can all have a great effect on hop flavor, aroma, bitterness, storability, etc., even with the same hop plant in the same field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at German varieties for a good example. Most grow very poorly outside their home-turf. Some are adapted to US/UK/Chinese/wherever conditions, but mostly don't share the qualities of authentic German-grown specimens, even though they may be genetically identical. Most often they are crossed/modified to make something more suitable for local conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, hop terroir is very real.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit-&#xA;Or at least people who grow them think so. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uvm.edu/extension/cropsoil/wp-content/uploads/2013-Hops-Variety-Trial-Year-3.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;paper&lt;/a&gt; presenting the results of the 3rd year of the hop variety trial at UVM:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Hops, like grapes, have terroir. Their brewing characteristics and oil content are reflective of their microclimate. Hop varieties grown on the East coast, even though genetically the exact same as varieties grown elsewhere, will not be like hops in the Pacific Northwest or Europe due to different soils and different climates.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-06T00:17:07.383" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T00:17:07.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-04T17:17:59.930" Score="1" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make my own local millet drink sweetened with malt sorghum. But I want to keep it free from fermentation for weeks. How? I have sorbate but is not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11933" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-04T18:27:51.777" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T19:47:32.740" Title="how to stop fermantation in my locally made millet drink" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-04T18:42:23.073" Score="1" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to have a hop tasting to try and get a handle on the main varieties and variation of hops. I was thinking of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2013/03/dry-hopped-bud-light.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; approach except using the suggestion in the comments of Real Ale's Fireman #4 - I'd much prefer to support a local brewery, and would rather be seen dead than buying Bud light :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to come up with a list of hops. I'm aiming for about 8-9 I think, but two boxes gives me a max of 11+control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my list so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuggles (US) - I have some in the freezer already&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuggles (UK) - for the terroir comparison&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;East Kent Goldings (UK) - sentimental reasons (*)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saaz (CZ) - A Noble example&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magnum - Bittering example&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Northern Brewer - another bittering example and intrigued by their use in both Anchor Steam and Old Peculier. OP being a favourite - Anchor Steam rather less so!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cascade - a typical West Coast aroma&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's seven. Are there any other broad types that I'm missing out on that I should probably include?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) Saw the real things growing (and oasting) in East Kent in the 1990s when the UK was down to three commercial hop farms - and one was managed by my cousin!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T12:38:17.177" Title="Which hops to choose for a hop tasting" Tags="|hops|taste|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14890" CreationDate="2015-03-05T12:51:36.627" Score="1" ViewCount="4906" Body="&lt;p&gt;My beer iam fermenting which is now 7 days old has started producing a small amount of foam/bubbles on the surface! Everything else is spot on, just wondering if this is normal so near bottling stage? Please help &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow up info: &#xA;Starting gravity was 1.032. Temp has always been at 22 Celsius and the gravity is at 1.006 for second day now. No activity like yesterday as in small bubbles rising 2 surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11921" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-03-10T13:52:58.453" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T17:09:58.563" Title="Foam on my fermenting beer" Tags="|bottling|primary-fermentation|foam|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14878" CreationDate="2015-03-05T13:54:34.833" Score="2" ViewCount="935" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that is very confusing to me right now is the difference between bottling and kegging, more specifically the carbonation difference between them. The first doubt of kegging  arises when you would extract the beer inside of it. You could use a party pump or a co2 cylinder system. But if you used a party pump wouldn't the beer be flat? Like you add sugar when priming to generate co2 and etc. I understand that this is emulated by the co2 cylinder when kegging. But if it is already carbonated why would you use co2? Is the beer inside of a keg really 'flat'? I think to better address the question would be important to explain in what stage (primary, secondary fermentation, .. ) the beer in commercial kegs are. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T14:22:37.520" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T15:18:16.527" Title="Bottling vs Kegging Questions" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14876" CreationDate="2015-03-05T14:29:31.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The beer inside a keg should (and virtually always will) be fully fermented and carbonated if you're dispensing it. This is how beer in a commercial keg comes. In the situation I think you're referring to, CO2 or a pump is simply used to add/maintain enough pressure within the keg to push the beer out and into a glass. CO2, when applied at the right pressure, also maintains the carbonation level of the beer. When using a pump though (which pressurizes the keg with ambient air) the beer inside will fairly quickly lose its carbonation as the gas (CO2) in the beer equalizes with the introduced air (mostly nitrogen and oxygen) in the head space. Oxygen is also extremely detrimental to almost every desirable beer quality. So pumps should only be used when you know you'll consume the keg very quickly (maybe a couple days if it's kept cold).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T14:29:31.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14876" CreationDate="2015-03-05T14:30:58.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's separate this out into two phases: carbonation and dispensing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation inside a keg can be done just like carbonation inside a bottle: by the addition of a specific amount of sugar, which will be fermented by the residual yeast, which will create a specific amount of CO₂, measured in &quot;volumes&quot;. With external CO₂, however, you can also &quot;force carbonate&quot;, by taking advantage of &lt;code&gt;PV=nRT&lt;/code&gt;: a specific pressure of CO₂ at a given temperature will result in a given amount of CO₂ dissolved in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once carbonated, you can remove that external pressure, and the beer will stay carbonated (assuming it stays or returns to the same temperature). It's in equilibrium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now on to dispensing. The beer in the keg is still under pressure: the volumes of CO₂ dissolved into the beer itself are in balance with gaseous CO₂ in the headspace of the keg. So without doing anything else, you can hook up a tap and carbonated beer will flow out … for a while.  Once you've reduced the volume of beer in the keg, the physical size of the headspace will increase, you will have the same amount of CO₂ but in a much larger volume (of headspace), so the pressure will drop. Which will make it increasingly harder to push beer out of the keg. As well, some of the CO₂ will come out of the beer, reducing its carbonation. Eventually, it will go flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to resolve this? Add more pressure to the keg to keep the dissolved carbonation intact and the headspace pressure high enough to flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now have two options: a party pump or more CO₂. The only difference, really, is that a party pump will add air (~20% O₂) to the headspace, which will lead to eventual oxidation of the beer. CO₂ obviously won't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T15:18:16.527" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T15:18:16.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14879" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-05T14:45:56.260" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T14:45:56.260" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T14:45:56.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14880" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-05T14:45:56.260" Score="0" Body="India Pale Ale. A Pale Ale with a high bitter/hop content" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T00:31:57.447" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T00:31:57.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14881" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-05T14:47:12.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;'Extract' is usually used as an abbreviation for 'malt extract' in homebrewing. Many brewers (especially those starting out) use malt extract instead of mashing malted barley (as in all-grain brewing). The malt extract is usually supplied in liquid or dry form and contains the sugars and other compounds extracted from the grains during mashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T21:18:40.307" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T21:18:40.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14882" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-05T14:47:12.190" Score="0" Body="The use of malt extract in homebrewing." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T21:25:39.703" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T21:25:39.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-05T15:04:53.723" Score="2" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering using a water filter just prior to bottling in order to filter very small particles. But would that also filter the yeast and prevent fermentation in the bottle? What micra in what stage is better for filtering? Is using filters good practice at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T23:35:38.297" Title="Water filter usage in homebrewing" Tags="|filtering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14883" CreationDate="2015-03-05T16:13:08.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on filter size, it could filter out yeast.  Also, unless you have a closed filter system pushed by CO2 you will oxidize your beer.  I used a filter for a little while but stopped.  I found it to be a PITA for not much benefit and also found that it seemed to strip body and flavor from the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T16:13:08.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-05T20:09:33.763" Score="1" ViewCount="824" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have just added all the ingredients for my first coopers lager beer kit. I am aware that my temperature is too high at 32degreesc and the kit says to be from 21-27. will this ruin it? i heard it was better to get the yeast in right away so i did that very quickly. (it does say on the kit that fermentation will still take place Can i put some ice cubes in to lower the temperature or is it bad to remove the lid? or maybe put it outside for a bit? thanks very much for any advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11938" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T20:56:12.053" Title="my temperature is too high what can i do?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14885" CreationDate="2015-03-05T20:56:12.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If not ruin it, it will make fairly bad beer.  It is always better to wait til the wort reaches a good temp then to pitch the yeast at too high a temp.  You can put the fermenter into a bathtub or other container and add cold water and ice to the water.  Don't put ice directly into your wort.  Ice is not sanitary and you risk contaminating your beer by doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T20:56:12.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14875" CreationDate="2015-03-06T09:43:20.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Foam is not normal near bottling time, it usually means that fermentation is still happening - that is, it is not bottling time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few bubbles can be formed just from loss of CO2 (from a rise in temperature for example), but the best way to be sure is measure the specific gravity. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/8134/so-i-dont-know-if-my-primary-is-done/8135#8135&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially note, as the above thread points out, it's good to be patient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T09:43:20.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14928" CreationDate="2015-03-07T09:56:34.180" Score="4" ViewCount="3273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently built a kegerator out of a vintage freezer. I've added one tap handle to the door with two more coming soon. The freezer has a latching handle and pretty strong closing action, which pops the tap open dumping beer on the floor...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I add a spring to the internals of my cheap faucet to make it close automatically? Does anyone know which one is a good size and strength?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An overview of the parts and assembled version of my taps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RTmC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Overview of tap parts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the fitting, which I imagine is more or less universal to most shanks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lpkkJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tap fitting&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to hunt for a food safe compression spring that will fit in between the shank and the inside portion of the fitting that attaches to it. Hopefully it will provide enough tension to close the tap cleanly, or at least keep them from pouring out when the door slams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like most self closing taps listed online have a screw where the little &quot;button&quot; is on the front of the tap so possibly the plug(?) could be machined or replaced to allow for an external spring (avoiding the need for food safety).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11945" LastEditorUserId="11945" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T08:36:47.743" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T17:30:30.233" Title="How to make a tap faucet close automatically?" Tags="|kegerator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14900" CreationDate="2015-03-07T10:10:34.087" Score="1" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out what I did wrong, when I measured my O.G. it came out to 1.060/1.062, what i calculated is, and what the recipe states it should be in the 1.070 to 1.080 range......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersbestkits.com/pdf/1035%202013%20Double%20IPA%20Recipe.pdf%20%22recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recipe&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Brewers Best: Double IPA - Imperial IPA (14C)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil Size: 4.00 gal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil Time: 60.000 min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Efficiency: 70%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG: 1.076&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG: 1.019&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV: 7.4%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bitterness: 70.6 IBUs (Tinseth)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Fermentables&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                Name    Type   Amount &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Briess LME - Golden Light Extract 9.900 lb &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corn Sugar (Dextrose)   Sugar 1.000 lb &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L   Grain 8.000 oz &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cara-Pils/Dextrine   Grain 8.000 oz  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total grain: 11.900 lb&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Procedure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill Pot with 3.5 Gal water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat, water and add LME and Corn sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steep grains/mash in other pot, with 1 Qt water, 30mins @155F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sparge with 1 Qt water 170F - 180F, add to brew pot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start Boil, and follow brew instructions, boil--&gt;add hops,last 15 add hops, last min, add hops....&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cool wort to 68F/70F &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put into primary and top up to 5Gals, take S.G. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerate and Pitch Yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a Home Brew.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only change i have made to my procedure from last batch to this batch is how i transfered over to the primary. &#xA;My original is dump the entire batch into my primary with a fine screen colander, compared to (this one) siphoning to my primary. after the siphoning i Had about .5 inches of trub/hops/and stuff at the bottom with a thin layer of liquid, probably about 1/2 cups worth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What caused this loss of .010  to my brew and could I make this up in the secondary, by adding boiled DME/wort to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also Bonus question, what effect will this have on it, since this no longer in the imperial range.....?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;right now it seems like its ok, and the wort tasted sweetish and hoppy, but could not compare to my first 2 (dry stout, Irish red ale)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T16:24:28.267" Title="Why is my O.G. less then what I calculated?" Tags="|extract|kits|extract-brewing|extract-plus-grains|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14898" CreationDate="2015-03-07T11:52:03.157" Score="1" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bitter has been fermenting for 9 days now and I think it's time to bottle? Temp is fine and gravity is 1.006 for 3 days running,just in the bottling mark. No activity now, just a small amount of froth for the last 3 days.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F2L9V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11921" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T14:00:01.870" Title="Is it Bottling Time?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14896" CreationDate="2015-03-07T12:48:50.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;not as experienced as other HBs (2 brews completed, 1 fermenting), but sounds likes its ready to bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would bottle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;following the directions for adding priming sugar....etc...etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T12:48:50.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14896" CreationDate="2015-03-07T14:00:01.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. It's at a stable gravity that's a reasonable terminal gravity for that style (1.006 is a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; dry for a bitter, but just a little). The krausen has fallen back into the beer, which is why there's just &quot;a little froth&quot; and &quot;a small head&quot;. It's bottling time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T14:00:01.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14895" CreationDate="2015-03-07T14:19:25.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the volumes are as you both computed and experienced, then there's not very much reason why an extract brew would be so far off the OG number. My guess is that the computer added in the results of &quot;mashing&quot; the crystal grains, crystal does not have any diastatic power. Without any base malt present, no converstion can take place. So your &quot;mash&quot; was really a &quot;steep&quot;. At the same time, crystal (by definition) does contain already-converted and caramelized sugars that don't need to be mashed at all, so you still got that fraction of the sugars just from steeping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if we assume a pound of crystal is good for about 1.036 in 1 gl of water (point per pound per gallon, or ppg), and 50% that is in convertable starch … that's &lt;code&gt;36 ppg * 50% (crystal) / 5 gl = 3.6 points&lt;/code&gt; … or more like a difference of 1.004 for the 5gl batch, not 1.010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another source of error/difference might be hydrometer temperature correction?  Was your wort still warm/hot when you took the hydrometer reading? Did you correct for temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest effect is simply going to be a bit less alcohol. You'll still have the higher OG and body from the unfermentable sugars from the crystal. You'll have &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; higher hop utilization and bitterness. I don't think it'll have a huge impact, tbh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T14:19:25.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14895" CreationDate="2015-03-07T16:24:28.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you do a partial boil and add more water afterward?  If so, the problem is likely to be inadequate mixing.  The wort is heavier than water so when you take a reading you get essentially &quot;watered down&quot; wort.  It's nearly impossible to get them mixed thoroughly to get an accurate reading.  But if you use all the ingredients and end up with the volume the recipe specifies, you WILL hit the predicted OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T16:24:28.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14904" CreationDate="2015-03-07T19:47:26.877" Score="5" ViewCount="1046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I soaked my gold colored Perlick beer faucets in Powdered Brewery Wash (PBW) overnight and it stripped the gold coloring off and revealed the stainless steel underneath. PBW is non-reactive to most equipment. Why did this happen and what is the best way of cleaning the faucets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KuImM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Used to be gold&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6700" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T01:00:51.633" Title="Why did PBW strip my gold colored faucets?" Tags="|cleaning|pbw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-07T21:05:20.853" Score="1" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the first time I'm making a starter in my Erlenmeyer flask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I soaked, emptied, and drained the flask pretty good save the foam that is normal. The funnel, bung and blowoff tube were also soaked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pitched the yeast in a DME solution at 11-12 brix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty standard stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any risk I'm going to kill my yeast starter considering any residual StarSan present in the flask. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3467" LastEditorUserId="3467" LastEditDate="2015-03-07T21:59:04.527" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T22:09:07.290" Title="Erlenmeyer flask rinsed in StarSan" Tags="|sanitation|yeast-starters|starsan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14902" CreationDate="2015-03-07T22:09:07.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With StarSan (really, with &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; no-rinse sanitizer), as long as you're using it at the prescribed dosage and draining your vessel well, there's absolutely no danger to your yeast. There would need to be a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of sanitizer (like dumping your yeast straight into the sanitizing solution) to have an effect on it. Even that probably wouldn't kill it, though it would taste nasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, you're fine. Just watch it bubble away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T22:09:07.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14901" CreationDate="2015-03-08T19:52:46.097" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;PBW should be completely safe and effective, at recommended concentrations, for cleaning those. I think the reason you're seeing fading of the gold is that the contact time is too long. Next time a 5 or 10 minute soak, followed by some light scrubbing if necessary, should work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With basically all chemical cleaners the important factors that increase cleaning power are &lt;strong&gt;time&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;temperature&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;pH/concentration&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;mechanical action&lt;/strong&gt;. Increase any of these and you'll increase the effectiveness of your cleaner. These will also increase the susceptibility of metals to chemical attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PBW does say that it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/wp-content/uploads/PBWTech2.pdf&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;safe on skin as well as soft metals such as&#xA;stainless steel, aluminum, and on plastics&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; but in my experience, stainless steel is the only material that's truly impervious to basically anything you can throw at it (with some exceptions, such as chlorinated cleaners and highly concentrated acids). Also I'm not sure I believe when they say that stainless steel is a 'soft' metal...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it all depends on what the 'gold-tone' coating on these is. Perlick &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.perlick.com/files/8514/1692/5292/RB_Lucky_2014-11.pdf&quot;&gt;uses PVD (&lt;em&gt;physical vapor deposition&lt;/em&gt;) on their gold-tone taps&lt;/a&gt; and as far as I could find, the most likely material for PVD coating in gold-tone is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Titanium_nitride&quot;&gt;titanium nitride&lt;/a&gt;, though this seems like a pretty tough material. It could also be real gold, which is also highly resistant to corrosion, though this seems less likely than the other option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the real point is that you now know whatever makes these gold doesn't stand up to extended stays in PBW. Again I think cutting the contact time way down should keep the gold coating intact and still provide you with effective cleaning power. The real good thing is that, if it is in fact stainless steel underneath, that's not going anywhere for anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT - I came across something interesting reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/patents/US5789361&quot;&gt;the patent for PBW&lt;/a&gt;. If you go nearly to the bottom, in example 4, you'll find data saying that PBW caused corrosion in brass at a rate of 11 PPM (at regular concentrations, over 20 minutes). Earlier in the patent it mentions that it &quot;does not corrode or scar metals such as aluminum, stainless steel, and brass&quot;. So I think it's important to realize that, when they say it's 'safe' to use, it doesn't mean there will be &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; corrosion, but rather only &lt;em&gt;very little&lt;/em&gt; corrosion. This corrosion is inconsequential with a solid piece of metal, but when you're talking about a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pvdcoatings.net/faq#q4&quot;&gt;0.25 micron-thick decorative coating&lt;/a&gt; it suddenly becomes much more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now your faucets may not be coated in brass, so this might not apply &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt;, per se. But it's definitely true that, with non-stainless-steel metals, the safe use/compatibility with a cleaning product may (and in this case clearly does) involve a certain, albeit very small, amount of corrosion to that metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, taking everything together (a very thin layer of not-fully-corrosion-resistant coating being left to soak for a long time in a very-slightly-corrosive solution), you can probably begin to see an explanation as to why the gold-coating on these taps did not last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T01:00:51.633" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T01:00:51.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-08T20:04:35.373" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just wanted to experiment homebrewing some Soda for a kick. I found a few pages online that say the process is quite similar to homebrewing Beer, but somewhat easier and faster. As far as I know, I could heat some water, mix yeast with any kind &quot;juice&quot;, let it rest for a day and get something of a Soda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what safety measures should I take into consideration? Should I avoid using some kind of product? Are there any chemicals that could be harmful when combined with yeast?&#xA;For instance, if I wanted to experiment carbonating a &quot;Crystal Light&quot; instead of using real Juice, could that have unforeseen consequences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11950" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T22:39:31.233" Title="Security measures when brewing Soda" Tags="|soda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14927" CreationDate="2015-03-09T09:38:55.197" Score="0" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lid on my airlock has no holes in the top! Do I still make sure the lid is firmly all the way down ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11921" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T01:35:27.633" Title="I have a problem with my Airlock" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14866" CreationDate="2015-03-09T10:12:50.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;@graham is correct. It is rather a massivly open question unless you specify what kind of beers you generally like to make. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g I brew English style ales and I can fashion a huge variety of beers from just: Maris Otter Pale Ale malt, Crystal malt &amp;amp; Chocolate malt and Fuggles, Goldings, Challenger &amp;amp; Northern Brewer hops. Yesterday for example I did a Whiteshield IPA, a Wadworth 6X and a Timothy Taylor Best Bitter using combos of the above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you may hate English Ale, so difficult to assist you unless you spill the beans a bit more ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T10:12:50.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-09T10:28:25.293" Score="1" ViewCount="2499" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer in my secondary fermenter tastes a little like liquorice. Why could this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11921" LastEditorDisplayName="user8292" LastEditDate="2017-07-10T14:44:56.363" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T19:11:28.020" Title="Liquorice taste in my beer" Tags="|aftertaste|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13450" CreationDate="2015-03-09T10:34:31.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stop chilling my ales when the surface temp/outlet pipe is about 21 degrees C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes me about 40 minutes to chill 50 litres from boiling 100C down to 21C, so I guess in total I give the beer about an hour to settle after the boil is finished before draining into the ferm bins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T10:34:31.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14911" CreationDate="2015-03-09T10:50:25.107" Score="5" ViewCount="914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my first brew this weekend with a kit, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stupidly, I misread the instructions and added the bag of priming sugar (which was supposed to be added immediately prior to barrelling) at the start of the fermentation. (I got confused with a brewing sugar step which was including in the instructions but intended for a different recipe - it was a bit unclear!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a slow start it's now bubbling away and smells good (2 days later), and my plan is to just wait the given amount of time and then take a gravity reading. Hopefully it'll reach the correct gravity and I just proceed to barrel it as-per the instructions. Maybe I should take one reading and then another the day after to check that it's stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on this, hopefully I won't need to throw away this batch due to this mistake? Also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what effect (taste, strength, yeast effects) might I expect from adding the sugar at the start of fermentation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have another bag of priming sugar, I still plan to add it prior to barrelling. This should be okay?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any feedback on this! I bit gutting to have messed up the instructions, whoops :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11952" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T15:22:09.413" Title="Stupidly added priming sugar in initial fermentation step" Tags="|fermentation|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14910" CreationDate="2015-03-09T12:05:02.050" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is no problem at all. To address your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;what effect (taste, strength, yeast effects) might I expect from adding the sugar at the start of fermentation?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Priming sugar (almost definitely glucose a.k.a dextrose), being nearly tasteless and highly fermentable (90+%), will increase ABV% without adding either residual (unfermentable) sugar or any malt flavor, basically lightening the body of finished beer. The magnitude of this effect depends on how much sugar you added, as well as what the rest of the recipe looked like, but since the bag was intended as priming sugar, it won't have been too much sugar and the effect should be entirely minimal, if even noticeable at all. Yeast would only be affected if it was a huge amount of sugar you added (25+%, maybe), and this would be due to the dilution of essential nutrients derived from malt. You won't see a problem here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;I have another bag of priming sugar, I still plan to add it prior to barrelling. This should be okay?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, absolutely. The sugar you added before will get fermented fully before bottling, so it's necessary to add more to achieve carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Maybe I should take one reading and then another the day after to check that it's stable.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do this. To be safe, most people here recommend waiting until it really looks like fermentation's done, then taking gravity readings three consecutive days to ensure it's fully fermented. When this checks out you can proceed to packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your beer shouldn't suffer at all for this mishap, so don't worry too much about it. It's probably the least costly mistake you could have made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T15:22:09.413" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T15:22:09.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14914" CreationDate="2015-03-09T17:06:37.517" Score="1" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just ordered a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0082X3D06&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bayou&lt;/a&gt; brew kettle. I meant to order the 10 gallon, but accidentally ordered the 16 gallon (Only a $15 USD difference). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only have a couple all-grain/partial mash brew under my belt, so I am sticking to the 5 gallon batches for now. So should I send this one back and get a 10 gal, or would I be fine with the 16? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The false bottom will sit at the 2.5 gallon mark. This might hold my grains above my water level. Maybe I could remove the false bottom, and just use the bazooka filter? Or mash with my entire boil volume, and just recycle my wert? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10796" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T23:26:04.247" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T13:44:19.967" Title="5 gallon batch in 16 gallon kettle?" Tags="|brewpot|batch-size|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12859" CreationDate="2015-03-09T21:08:03.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The company got sued. They now produce a new version and the old one is literally gone from the internet sites. The only reason a company would call back their old stock is if they were forced to do so. They no longer make the bubbler caps either. Those were likely considered a potential cause for the exploding carboys. On the flip side, although you don't get the bubble cap, you do get a nice microfiber towel now. And yes, the new glass is thicker, has far less or even no bubbles, and is now marked as &quot;Made in Poland&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likely, using it as a primary would not have caused this issue. However, as mentioned earlier, heat might have weakened the glass, especially if you don't get your wort completely cool before putting it in the carboy. Also, being that it was full, it may have hit the concrete a little harder than you think. The glass was definitely too thin in the first generation models though, and they had bubbles galore. Thankfully it has been redesigned, but it's a shame it took this much. They should have found this when they were vetting suppliers in the first place, instead of just finding the cheapest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11953" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T21:08:03.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14912" CreationDate="2015-03-09T23:32:44.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 15.5gl &quot;keggles&quot; as my HLT and BK. I think I've only done one 5gl batch in it, but yours should work fine as a boil kettle. Though you might have some non-trivial deadspace to work around, just adjust your volumes to compensate or look into a dip tube to minimize deadspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While that false bottom seems to sit very high for mashing a 5gl batch, I'm not sure that it would not work. I used a bazooka screen in my rectangular cooler mashtun just fine for a few years, so I'm fairly confident that would work too. A bazooka screen would probably also help with filtering any hop or other kettle additions, but on the other hand might interfere with having a dip tube to deal with kettle deadspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the kettle size for 5gl batches, you could probably get away with a biab style full-volume mash as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say, honestly. I'd experiment and iterate using it, and see what works best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-10T13:44:19.967" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T13:44:19.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12249" CreationDate="2015-03-10T00:42:41.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all comes down to mash temp. Lower mash temps(145-148) will yield more fermentable sugars. Down side is you lower your mash efficiency and need to compensate with more grain or adjuncts. But you will have a substantially dry beer. Even with a iipa you should be able to hit 1.01.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11955" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T00:42:41.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13450" CreationDate="2015-03-10T17:41:11.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stop running the pump and knock out the wort when it's 60F for ales and 48-50F for lagers.  By that point the trub has settled so I pump to a fermenter immediately.  Takes about 10-15 min, for ales and 15-20 min. for lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T17:41:11.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2015-03-10T21:48:51.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well if we were going to vote on it mine would be Midus. It has been said a few times here and I think it's the most appropriate. It stands on it's own and doesn't need brandy, whisky, jack, or anything else acting as a crutch. Also it usually has that nice golden color so it makes a nice parallel with King Midus from Greek mythology that turned everything he touched into gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11958" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T21:48:51.977" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-03-10T21:48:51.977" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14905" CreationDate="2015-03-10T22:39:31.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Provided you aren't making a fermented soda, making soda is like bottling day for beer. You are essentially preparing the ingredients and carbonating. If you do this with priming sugar and yeast, you do actually create a small amount of alcohol (~0.25%). However, you do have some of the the same sanitation concerns and precautions. If you bottle your soda with unwanted microbes, you can get an infection and ruin your soda the same as with beer or worse, since there are potentially a lot more sugars. I don't know what ingredients are in Crystal Light, but I would suspect any commercial product may have issues because they typically include preservatives that will hinder the yeast. Force carbonating with CO2 would work fine, since there is no fermentation involved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T22:39:31.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14933" CreationDate="2015-03-11T00:34:12.903" Score="1" ViewCount="687" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just picked up a new kettle. Assembled it and ran a water test on it. It came with some teflon tape, and I put that on. But it has a consistent dripping leak. Should I just load some more teflon tape on it? Or does anyone have some good solutions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10796" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T04:47:02.000" Title="Fix a leak on my weld-less valve" Tags="|kettle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14919" CreationDate="2015-03-11T09:37:06.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use teflon tape to keep these from leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is the gasket (sometimes a silicone o-ring), which may not be sitting flush against the kettle. This may need changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11868" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T09:37:06.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T19:59:48.293" Score="1" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tasted my pumpkin ale after fermentation was complete and it's not as sweet as I was hoping.  The spice and pumpkin flavors are great, but I'd like it to have a slightly sweeter finish.  I added half a pound of lactose to the last 10 minutes of the boil, so the mouth feel is good and creamy, but still feels like it's missing something.  I'm about to rack it to the secondary carboy for a couple weeks, then I'll be kegging with forced CO2.  Any suggestions on what I could add at this point to make it a bit sweeter?  Thanks in advance for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11963" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T14:40:16.333" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T14:40:16.333" Title="How to sweeten up my pumpkin ale?" Tags="|ale|sweetness|pumpkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14875" CreationDate="2015-03-11T20:36:42.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is when your fermentation is working and the &quot;krausen&quot; is your yeast cake on the top of the fermenting wort. This should make you very happy, your yeast is working and it is producing alcohol/beer! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also, information on counting yeast cells to see how active your yeast is under a microscope. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also studies on under/over pitched yeast which I prefer just the right amount so as not to strain the yeast by under pitching or lose body by over pitching (may also cause a bitter beer taste). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yeastgenome.org/mother-yeast-keeps-daughters-tidy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.yeastgenome.org/mother-yeast-keeps-daughters-tidy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11965" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T17:09:58.563" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T17:09:58.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14922" CreationDate="2015-03-11T21:08:30.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the gravity reading on it now? What was the original gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A half-pound of lactose should bring a lot of residual sweetness to the party, but if it was a very dry beer in the first place, perhaps the lactose added so-far is only making up for the dryness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can encourage residual sweetness with the addition of crystal malts (which provide unfermentable sugars) and/or a high mash temperature if you're doing all-grain (which promotes longer-chain, less-fermentable sugars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T21:08:30.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14922" CreationDate="2015-03-12T00:05:46.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your options are pretty limited at this point. If you want to add fermentable sugars to the keg, you'll need to incapacitate the yeast first. You can do this with a measured dose of potassium sorbate and metabisulfite, but that will likely affect the flavour. You could pasteurize the beer, but that's technically difficult and will also affect the flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best and simplest options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add an artificial sweetener to the keg.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sweeten just before serving. Put some simple syrup in the glass before dispensing from the keg. You could experiment with different flavourings in the syrup -- vanilla comes to mind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T00:05:46.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14908" CreationDate="2015-03-12T01:14:57.697" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, would need to know the recipe.  But Star Anise will add a liquorice taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6401" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T01:14:57.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14906" CreationDate="2015-03-12T01:35:27.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen some airlocks that have plastic lines such that when you put the top on there are small openings on the side of the lock to let CO2 escape.  Perhaps yours is like that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to just leave the top off.  Just make sure that all the liquid does not evaporate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6401" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T01:35:27.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14894" CreationDate="2015-03-12T03:14:22.973" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Update: I've made my standard taps self closing with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.centuryspring.com/Store/item_detail.php?StockNumber=S-1098&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;S-1098 Compression Spring&lt;/a&gt; from Century Spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a stainless steel spring with the following measurements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Force: 102lbs/inch (179 N/cm)&#xA;Free length: .560&quot;&#xA;Solid height: .350&quot;&#xA;Outer Diameter: .453&quot;&#xA;Inner Diameter: .325&quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This strength adds a fair bit of resistance to pulling the tap open, but it's not a problem. The tap closes quickly and cleanly (just a couple drips, about like a normal hand-closing) on its own after being let go, provided the spring is seated well in between the faucet and shaft. Sometimes it takes a couple tries to sit properly. I just set it in and attach it like normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one question that remains is if the springs will hold up (I've installed two in beer taps and one in sparkling water). While they are made of stainless steel, they are not polished, so I will report back in a while with how they continue to perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Research below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, I've found a spring that roughly works, but is not of an acceptable material (and sadly I don't know it's exact strength because it was in a sampler pack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The packaged spring C-632 &lt;code&gt;(7/16 x 1-1/16 x .041)&lt;/code&gt; from Century Spring felt pretty responsive when it was alone in the tap (quick clean closing action) but didn't close all the way. In the sample pack I found one that is about the same length and slightly stronger tension &lt;code&gt;(12mm x 28mm x 1.25mm)&lt;/code&gt; and it closes nearly as cleanly as just shutting off the tap by hand, and solves the problem of leaks when the door slams shut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that carbonated water sitting on it for a day or two led to a lot of corrosion. Both of the springs were probably too long for this purpose (I measured the inner length to be about .35&quot; when open and .45&quot; when closed) and likely not a food safe material. I've ordered a handful of stainless springs and will update the answer when I find a suitable size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pxrPr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tap faucet and shaft with spring arrangement and details&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11945" LastEditorUserId="11945" LastEditDate="2015-03-21T08:22:06.870" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T08:22:06.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7183" CreationDate="2015-03-12T05:28:46.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this exact same problem and it started showing up when I went to all grain. Some of the BSG kits I've done use a steeping grain process where the grains are pre-milled and they all turned out great. My extract brews have also been great. In every case I've used the same water source (tap water)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the first all-grain batch to my latest they have a dank grainy or sour flavor which makes it basically un-drinkable. Exactly as you describe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend who knows a bit more about the all-grain process stopped by last week and watched how I was mashing and he also gave the tip of running out some wort until it goes semi-clear. Interestingly he also suggested it might be milling the grain too fine, allowing more tannins to come through. The two combined are likely my issue as his calculations had me at a 90% efficiency which I'm told is almost impossible for an amateur home brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway it would be nice to know if you're able to sort out the problem. I'll do the same and post back here soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11967" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T17:07:46.037" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T17:07:46.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12942" CreationDate="2015-03-12T11:11:24.870" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you know what grade the material was?&#xA;I believe this would be grade 202 or 304 as these cannot withstand lot of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you should not use this material as now the pot can get rusted and this may lead to problems later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet would be to try getting another pot instead because health concerns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;lt; link removed &gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11968" LastEditorUserId="10843" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T17:05:02.943" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T17:05:02.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14844" CreationDate="2015-03-12T13:18:41.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any books per se, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f164/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HomeBrewtalk&lt;/a&gt; has a forum dedicated to the topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1990" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T13:18:41.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14919" CreationDate="2015-03-12T14:00:04.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reapply Teflon tape. As counterintuitive as it sounds, check to make sure the bulkhead isn't &lt;em&gt;overtightened&lt;/em&gt;; it can cause gaskets to leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3876" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T14:00:04.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14934" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-12T19:16:30.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soils can harbor microorganisms, as well as hinder heat transfer and other processes, so a surface must be cleaned properly before it can be effectively sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-16T22:51:39.287" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T22:51:39.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14935" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-12T19:16:30.323" Score="0" Body="The removal of soils from the surface of equipment left behind by the brewing/fermentation process. A vital prerequisite for good sanitation." OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-16T22:52:00.643" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T22:52:00.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-13T08:22:22.583" Score="0" ViewCount="717" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my first two lagers last weekend and will make two more this weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the boil, I chilled the wort to 75*F/24*C, oxygenated it and put the carboy in my chest freezer so it could get down to 50*F/10*C, which took about 8-12 hours. I decided to take some left over wort from the kettle and &quot;step up&quot; my starter a third time, but placing the starter in the freezer at 50*F/10*C on a stir plate. The next morning (8-12 hours later) I pitched it instead of waiting another 12-24 for hours as normally recommended for pitching at high krausen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like the idea of my wort sitting there with some bacteria in it a long time without having to compete with yeast, which is why I pitched as soon as the wort hit 50*F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John Palmer has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-6.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chapter&lt;/a&gt; on pitching at high krausen, but I couldn't tell if he only stipulated that to be necessary when the yeast starter is from malt extract as opposed to the actual wort one would be using in a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it detrimental or otherwise a material opportunity cost to pitch a yeast starter before it hits high krausen, when the yeast starter is made from the same wort that one is pitching into?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, with my yeast starters on a stir plate, the foam appears to be at its highest point 8-12 hours-- it's visibly its most vigorous. I'm not sure what this says about high krausen. At 24 hours, as the yeast starters I'm looking at right now, there is almost no foam at all:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ETFkr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T09:25:53.080" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T15:50:00.253" Title="Pitching a Yeast Starter Before High Krausen" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14936" CreationDate="2015-03-13T15:41:27.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you pitch before the yeast had a chance to finish fermenting, you're pitching a less than optimal amount of yeast. Also, depending on the OG of the wort you grew your starter in, you may have suboptimal cell count and health. These also look like pretty small starters for lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T15:50:00.253" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T15:50:00.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2015-03-13T18:10:58.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starsan actually breaks down and is consumed by the yeast in your beer as if it was nutrient so long as you use it as directed. So seriously don't fear the foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11969" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-16T22:52:30.287" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T22:52:30.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14941" CreationDate="2015-03-14T08:55:16.317" Score="0" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a batch of chocolate porter from an all-grain kit.  Not only does the finished product not taste particularly good, but 1/3-1/2 of the beer foams up and out of the bottle once it's opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what could cause this to occur?  I'm thinking maybe I used too much priming sugar, or possibly my equipment wasn't adequately sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11972" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-14T11:32:28.870" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T15:59:02.753" Title="Overcarbination in a Chocolate Porter" Tags="|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12942" CreationDate="2015-03-14T15:04:53.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If that was my kettle I would go with various grades of abrasive, in whatever form (powdered might also work), in progressively finer grades. Then, if the results looked halfway promising, I would use polishing compound and some sort of power buffing arrangement to put a mirror finish on the interior at least, or as close to a mirror finish as I could manage or stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm no metallurgist, but it's my understanding that the finer the surface finish, the less likelihood there is of (toxic) nickel leaching out of the stainless and into your brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[ edit/afterthought: long, long ago I had a closed stainless kettle fabricated by a welder who advised me to soak the interior with vinegar: in a kind of pseudo-pickling process. I don't know whether it did any good, but I figured it couldn't hurt, and didn't. ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-14T15:17:17.363" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T15:17:17.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14939" CreationDate="2015-03-14T15:59:02.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The combination of bad flavour and foaming bottles could indicate an infection by wild yeast or bacteria. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt; by John Palmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gusher Infection However, the sustained bubbling is often due to &quot;gusher type&quot; infection. These infections can occur at any time and are due to wild yeasts or bacteria that eat the higher order sugars, like dextrins. The result in the fermentor is a beer that keeps bubbling until all of the carbohydrates are fermented, leaving a beer that has no body and very little taste. If it occurs at bottling time, the beer will overcarbonate and will fizz like soda pop, fountaining out of the bottle.&#xA;  Cure: Improve your sanitation next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T15:59:02.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14943" CreationDate="2015-03-15T01:32:36.963" Score="1" ViewCount="5925" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tasted my mead after 3 months of brewing and now it tastes ok, but it is sparkling, like champagne. It also tastes a little like it. Actually, i never tasted mead before so i don't know hot it is, i just thought it would be smoother.&#xA;Why did it happened? Is there something to help it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10822" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T18:18:35.837" Title="Why my mead is sparkling?" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14942" CreationDate="2015-03-15T02:20:22.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sparkle is carbon dioxide (CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;), one of yeast's main fermentation byproducts. It occurs in all fermentations (beer, wine, mead etc.) and residual amounts will linger in the beverage for many months after fermentation is done. Beer and champagne makers go to lengths to create and capture CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in solution for its characteristic sparkle, while wine makers often forcibly remove it by degassing, especially in wines that won't be aged long enough for it to dissipate on its own. For mead it depends entirely on how you want to serve it, with some preferring it still and others preferring it sparkling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to degas, here are a few existing questions on the subject:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6888/how-to-get-rid-of-gas-from-mead?rq=1&quot;&gt;How to get rid of gas from mead?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2038/how-can-i-tell-when-wine-has-finished-degassing?rq=1&quot;&gt;How can I tell when wine has finished degassing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7079/degassing-wine-how-to-proceed&quot;&gt;Degassing wine - how to proceed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T02:20:22.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14942" CreationDate="2015-03-15T02:22:48.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is always some CO2 in a fermenting liquid. Unless you have had recent changes in temperature or pressure, the amount of CO2 will be right at the saturation point, so that a little agitation will cause bubbles to appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T02:22:48.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-15T10:34:36.780" Score="0" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I buy a &quot; 1/2&quot; NPT female x 1/2&quot; ID hose barb &quot; with a true 1/2&quot; inside diameter? &#xA;My Chugger pump requires a minimum of 1/2&quot; feed to eliminate cavitation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11974" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T07:17:12.680" Title="I am having trouble finding 1/2&quot; inside diameter hose barb fittings to feed my Chugger pump" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14949" CreationDate="2015-03-15T18:15:58.480" Score="6" ViewCount="1165" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my past experience, my lagers have no perceptible sulphur. I understand that the &quot;rotten egg&quot; sulphur (H2S) is undesirable, but every great lager I have tasted has at least a hint of matchstick sulphur (SO2), sometimes fairly pronounced. I found a lot of articles on how to remove it or mitigate it, but little to nothing on how to produce it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried different fermentation temperatures (low 40Fs to mid 50Fs), but they all taste the same to me; rather bland and &quot;un-lager-ish&quot;. I have tried different yeasts (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=30&quot;&gt;wy2124&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=26&quot;&gt;wy2007&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp830-german-lager-yeast&quot;&gt;wlp830&lt;/a&gt;, but mostly use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFG_W34pdf.pdf&quot;&gt;w34/70&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm&quot;&gt;which I believe is perhaps the same as wlp 830/wy2124&lt;/a&gt;). I have also tried &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=34&quot;&gt;wy2278&lt;/a&gt;, but it's been a while. I actually purchased this for my next lager because it specifically mentions sulphur production. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally make a starter, using DME and size by the numbers from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot;&gt;Mr. Malty&lt;/a&gt; (or pitch 2 packs of w34/70). I also usually chill the starter and decant before I pitch it, so I don't get too much DMS from the starter. I've even tried fermenting the starter at lager temps, though it didn't seem to have any perceptible difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &quot;usual&quot; technique is the one described in Palmer's introduction to Jamil's &quot;Brewing Classic Styles&quot;, page 43, where the wort is chilled to 7C before pitching, then raised to 10C over the next 3 days. I certainly don't do everything right every time, but like I said, my lagers just don't have that classic taste I get from nearly every craft lager. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any recommendations or corrections to my technique, it would be greatly appreciated. Lagers are a style I have yet to even pull off, much less master :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2018-04-21T22:13:05.150" Title="How do I increase the sulphur production in a lager?" Tags="|lager|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14680" CreationDate="2015-03-16T11:29:23.860" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experienced the same issue when fermenting. I believe the problem is the lack of oxygen. Try an aeration stone or some other type of aeration. Your airlock should start to bubble once again.&#xA;Jimbowilly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11974" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T11:29:23.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14680" CreationDate="2015-03-16T11:46:15.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is normal for the air lock to slow way down after a couple days. It may bubble only once every few minutes. (And a watched pot never boils!) However, you may also have a bad seal. You can use the soapy water trick - mix a drop of dish soap in a glass of water. Then dab the water around the edge of seal and look for bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T11:46:15.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14946" CreationDate="2015-03-16T14:08:30.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some research and found there actually are a number of factors influencing the production of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulfur_dioxide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sulfur dioxide (SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;)&lt;/a&gt; specifically (as opposed to H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;S or DMS) that can be controlled:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; production is favored by higher original gravity&lt;/strong&gt;. Basically this is because sulfite synthesis by yeast requires energy and more energy available as fermentable sugar means more chance for sulfite accumulation. Higher glucose levels in particular have also been correlated to increased SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, though the reasons for this are not entirely clear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Decreased wort oxygenation (and/or wort lipid) levels will increase SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; levels&lt;/strong&gt;. The reasons are a bit complex: these factors favor increased levels of yeast growth; more yeast growth means more amino acid uptake from wort; amino acids in general inhibit sulfite synthesis from sulphate; hence, positive effects on extent of yeast growth = positive effect on yeast amino acid levels = negative influence on SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; levels. Similarly, yeast in poorer health will experience less growth and resultant elevated levels of SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. A specific correlation exists between the length of pre-pitch starvation of stored yeast and sulfite levels. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A lower ratio of amino acids (FAN) to fermentable sugars in wort favors SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; accumulation&lt;/strong&gt;, due to the amino acids' previously mentioned inhibitory effect.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Info above from the unimpeachably definitive &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=QpDVsu-vaBcC&amp;amp;pg=PT163&amp;amp;dq=brewing+yeast+and+fermentation+sulfur&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=bMAGVdfOLoOYgwSjvoSoCA&amp;amp;ved=0CEEQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=brewing%20yeast%20and%20fermentation%20sulfur&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewing Yeast and Fermentation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbaa.com/publications/tq/tqPastIssues/1995/Abstracts/tq95ab43.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This paper&lt;/a&gt; suggests yeast pitching rate and wort pH are also factors: &lt;em&gt;&quot;Sulphur dioxide formation is also increased by using &lt;strong&gt;high wort pH, low wort oxygenation or a low yeast pitching rate&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.1985.tb04314.x/pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here, abstract #9&lt;/a&gt; (on page 124) states &lt;em&gt;&quot;SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; formation increases with &lt;strong&gt;higher pH and is temperature dependent with maximum at 14-17 C&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional thoughts of my own, without citations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since an important precursor to sulfite is sulphate, having water with higher levels of SO&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;--&lt;/sup&gt; may encourage more resulting SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, provided the fermentation conditions are right.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you can and aren't already, try to explore &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9745/pressure-during-fermentation&quot;&gt;fermentation under pressure&lt;/a&gt;. It could help keep volatile sulfur compounds in the beer that would otherwise be stripped out by CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; formed and dissipated during fermentation. Most sulfite accumulation happens towards the end of fermentation (as sulfites cease to be used by yeast for amino acid synthesis) so you should be able to effectively trap this in a pressurized fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sulfur compounds being gaseous and volatile, lower temperatures could help prevent them from dissipating from beer while conditioning, especially if kept under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Seems like you've explored a number of strains without luck, but you might find they react differently to altered fermentation strategies. If you find a particular one that's nice and sulfur-y, I'd stick with it. Unfortunately I can't recall those strains from my own experience that give elevated SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to boil it down: increase your gravity; cut back on oxygenation; decrease FAN levels (maybe by trying lower-protein malts or eliminating proteolytic enzyme activity in the mash); shoot for higher wort pH; decrease pitching rates; increase water sulphates; keep fermentation warm and conditioning cool (and, if possible, under pressure) to discourage dissipation; and, if you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; want, you could try stressing out your yeast by storing it for longer periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T16:33:40.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2015-03-16T15:28:49.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try different times/techniques with different fruits. One of my favorite things to do is when I'm trying different things, to split the batch into two 2.5 gal batches so I can compare and contrast. I would definitely say secondary is best. But on how much, whether to freeze/sanitize, etc. take a look at my fruit experiments here. Just don't be afraid to try it! &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewingoutofbounds.blogspot.c...r-already.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brewingoutofbounds.blogspot.c...r-already.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11977" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T15:28:49.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14945" CreationDate="2015-03-17T07:17:12.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hose barbs in that size range seem to usually have a 1/16th inch wall thickness, so the bore would be 0.125&quot; smaller than the corresponding hose. In other words, to get a minimum 1/2&quot; ID in a hose barb, you'll need a 5/8&quot; barb, and change your hoses to 5/8 as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question above, try a hydraulic supply shop, Grainger, truck repair, etc. Bring a lot of cash because, although they can get what you want, in stainless, they will also make the stuff at your local homebrew shop look like its almost free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to solve the problem would be to lower the pump relative to the liguid (so the internal pressure is higher) or restrict the outlet so flow is reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T07:17:12.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16326" CreationDate="2015-03-17T12:36:44.300" Score="1" ViewCount="992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a cylinder of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bernzomatic.com/item.html?id=49&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bernzomatic&lt;/a&gt; Oxygen on the advice of my local homebrew store. They sold me an adapter kit (w/ air stone) and I got the cylinder from Lowes (tool section).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/brewing-equipment/fermenting-equipment/aeration/oxygenation-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Picture of adapter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly I tried attaching the adapter directly to the cylinder which caused massive leakage through the threads. Applying teflon tape (lots) helped but it was still leaking a bit. Exhausted the entire bottle for less than 5 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone is using O2, how is it done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1990" LastEditorUserId="1990" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T14:28:24.217" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T20:31:04.383" Title="Bernzomatic oxygen bottles to oxygenate beer" Tags="|beer|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:53:40.177" Score="3" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm hopping you guys can help me with this one. I want to fill a 2lt coke bottle with beer from bottles and add sugar and yeast to put the CO2 back in so it will last 8 to 10 days plus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm after advice on if it will work and what amount of sugar/yeast for 2lt container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know why it's i go to crete every year and they don't sell bitter only larger and I cant put glass in the hold luggage and if I just put it in the 2lt bottle the beer will only last 2-3 days before it goes flat :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11978" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T18:03:16.700" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T15:24:56.550" Title="putting the fizz back into beer" Tags="|beer|yeast|sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14953" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:59:02.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use commercial beer it probably won't work.  The beer will likely be filtered which will remove most of all of the yeast so more sugar won't recarb it.  You could use a carbonator cap and CO2 to do what you want, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T17:59:02.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14953" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:08:37.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;use a beer priming-sugar calculator to determine the correct amount&lt;/a&gt;. For 2L of beer, which probably already has ~2 volumes of CO₂, you probably only need 3-5g of table sugar and just a sprinkle of yeast, and then you're mostly just going to presurize the vessel instead of really carbonating the beer itself. If you let the beer go flat, first, assume it has more like 0.5-0.8 volumes of CO₂ remaining. You'll definitely need to add yeast, as Denny mentions. And, yes, a carbonator cap would be an even better approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T18:08:37.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9295" CreationDate="2015-03-18T02:07:48.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought three of these but after multiple attempts learned they shut off at boiling temperatures and are therefore useless for boiling wort. After discovering this, I thought I would use them to speed up the process of bringing 7 gallons of 170*F wort to boiling, but after a few tests discovered that keeping the lid fully on during this period was faster than the 3 bucket heaters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to use them only for a future HERMS setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oddly, when I was doing research on these, about half the posts stated these do not shut off at the boil, while the other half did. Given that only one company produces these, I don't understand the discrepancy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T02:12:56.047" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T02:12:56.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9295" CreationDate="2015-03-18T13:58:07.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew using a 36 l (10 gallon) stainless steel kettle on a 3.5 kW stand-alone induction top. Even at 80 % effect, the induction top brings 25 l (6.5 gallon) to the boil in less than 30 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T13:58:07.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14958" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-18T14:00:14.263" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T14:00:14.263" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T14:00:14.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14959" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-18T14:00:14.263" Score="0" Body="Addition of fermentable sugar to fully-attenuated beer, cider, mead or other beverage to produce carbonation by re-fermentation inside a sealed container, usually a bottle or keg. Requires viable yeast in suspension, either leftover from primary fermentation or added with the priming sugar." OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T16:16:43.700" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T16:16:43.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2015-03-18T14:35:55.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a small batch of Pale Ale + Fruit in January.  I made a smooth puree and pasteurized it by heating on the stove to 80C and holding that temp for 30 minutes.  I put the puree in the secondary and racked the beer onto it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a fairly vigorous secondary fermentation as the us-05 chewed through all my fruit sugars.  This took away almost all of the fruit flavor I was trying to impart, but made an interesting beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time I will use flavor extract.  I really wanted to use real fruit, but I feel that this is probably the only way to get the flavor I want.  Silver Cloud Estates seems to be a popular source for beer flavor extracts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11984" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T14:35:55.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14953" CreationDate="2015-03-18T15:24:56.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast will likely change the character of the beer. Quick solution would be to go with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.morebeer.com/products/carbonation-drops.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carbonation drops&lt;/a&gt;. You might also consider a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/kegging/draft-boxes/beerbox-portable-homebrew-dispenser.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;draft box&lt;/a&gt; which allows for a CO2 cartridge to carbonate the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1990" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T15:24:56.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5040" CreationDate="2015-03-18T15:28:12.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The excess soot is from incomplete combustion of your propane (C₃H₈ + 5O₂ -&gt; 3CO₂ + 4H₂O) is the complete combustion reaction. You need to increase the amount of oxygen, not propane. The flame should burn blue and non-luminescent. A yellow or orange flame indicates incomplete combustion and by products such as carbon monoxide (g) &quot;CO&quot; and solid carbon (s) &quot;soot&quot; deposited on the bottom of your burner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11985" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T18:49:42.037" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T18:49:42.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T21:29:58.230" Score="1" ViewCount="530" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is rather my first time doing a mead. It has been a month since i put it up for fermentation. Its been locked in a relatively stable temperature and totally dark enviroment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, after a full month, I opened it up to check on it and the fermenting has stopped. I have dead yeast at the bottom of the containter, and the mead is clear. But, the part that is troubling me is that along the neck i have this amber coloured residue. It looks like a very moist foam. Not bubbly but not neccisarily wrong looking. It doesnt drape down into the mead and I have no sickly smells. I've had it airlocked and used properly sanitized utenciles when brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal &quot;mead foam&quot; or is it the sign of an infection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://postimg.org/image/wn0swbi6b/e1cd06f7/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://postimg.org/image/wn0swbi6b/e1cd06f7/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11988" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T13:25:53.323" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T13:26:27.000" Title="Has My mead gone south?" Tags="|mead|contamination|honey|help|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14687" CreationDate="2015-03-19T21:33:23.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a More Beer Tippy system that I love. Easy to clean, brews with consistency once you figure out how to use it well and has automation for heating elements and thermostats that makes brewing fun. I recommend it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7942" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T21:33:23.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T21:37:08.990" Score="2" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got Beer Smith 2 and I was wondering if anyone has done equipment profiles and could give me some pointers on where to start.  Prost&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7942" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T08:00:33.163" Title="Beer Smith 2 Equipment settings." Tags="|equipment|brewing|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14963" CreationDate="2015-03-20T03:23:19.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contamination('infection') will usually make a ring right at the surface of the wort/must etc. Anything above the liquid would have come from the initial fermentation foam (or maybe from getting something in the neck of the bottling when filling, such as dry yeast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mead will generate a little foam at the beginnning, so it's probably nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be sure take a sample and taste it. If it tastes OK, then don't worry. And, if the mead is still very sweet and you want more fermentation, this would be a good time add nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T13:26:27.000" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T13:26:27.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14969" CreationDate="2015-03-20T14:14:10.040" Score="7" ViewCount="7490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a witbier this weekend that calls for 1 tsp of coriander added to the boil at 2 minutes. I'm wondering if I should purchase seeds and grind them myself, or just buy a jar of ground coriander off the spice rack.  Anyone have any experience they could share on which would be better?  Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11963" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T10:12:12.363" Title="Coriander: Seed vs Ground?" Tags="|techniques|ingredients|spices|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14968" CreationDate="2015-03-20T15:16:28.607" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll get the best flavor if you use whole, and coarsely crack it before adding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T15:17:40.657" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T15:17:40.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-20T15:40:36.737" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to brewing, and I'm making a couple test batches of cider as we speak. However my accessibility to things like wine or champagne yeast, so i'm stuck with baking yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is when i'm done if i'm not happy with the taste is it possible for me to freeze my cider and add sweetener? Would sugar work or would I have to use a honey or other substitute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11990" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T10:11:48.123" Title="Any way to Flavour a Cider crafted with Baking yeast?" Tags="|yeast|cider|flavor|brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-03-24T01:45:12.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12942" CreationDate="2015-03-20T15:58:57.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that the pot is beyond redemption, unless you want to put many, many hours of labor into the project. Even with a powered buffer you are still looking at a couple of days labor. What is your time worth?&#xA;Getting into where the side joins the bottom is going to be a special PITA. I would say scrap it or use it for a flower pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, if I were to have such a problem, I would have the item soda blasted (essentially baking soda instead of sand) as the soda is a softer medium and therefore much less abrasive to the metal. It will also leave an almost satin sheen to the metal that is much easier to polish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                       Cubrunrick&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11992" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T15:58:57.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14970" CreationDate="2015-03-20T16:46:03.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience, you really don't want to ferment with baking yeast. Yes, you can modify taste afterwards, but it's probably not worth the trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2687" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T16:46:03.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11907" CreationDate="2015-03-20T19:13:32.440" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerliever.com/bleach-no-rinse-sanitiser-home-brewing-beer/&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, which was linked to recently on Basic Brewing Radio's facebook page, you can make no-rinse sanitizer with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bleach diluted to 80 ppm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an equivalent amount of white vinegar to adjust the pH (mixed in &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; the bleach has been mixed into the water -- do not mix full-strength bleach and vinegar directly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This info is apparently backed up by what Charlie Talley (Mr. Star San) said on a Basic Brewing Radio episode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.publichealthontario.ca/en/ServicesAndTools/Tools/Pages/Dilution-Calculator.aspx#.VQxu8NLF-6E&quot;&gt;This chlorine dilution calculator&lt;/a&gt; from Public Health Ontario tells me how to get my brand of &quot;Ultra Disinfectant Bleach&quot;, which claims to be 8.25% sodium hypochlorite, to 80 ppm.  Using all this info, it appears that I could make no-rinse solution with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 litres of water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 ml bleach&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 ml white vinegar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And apparently this only needs &lt;strong&gt;30 seconds of contact time&lt;/strong&gt;.  This almost seems to good to be true, but I intend to try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2015-03-21T16:11:54.413" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T16:11:54.413" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-20T23:18:24.557" Score="2" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a method to maintain the temperature of the water specifically at 55 degree and 5 degree into two different containers to conduct a thermal cycling. I am keen to address the effect of temperature change (Aging) on a specific material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11995" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-21T13:35:13.063" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T20:42:51.020" Title="how to control water temperature?" Tags="|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-21T00:48:03.620" Score="5" ViewCount="6131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing 6 lagers right now (all Wyeast 2206) according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/methods/lager-method/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brülosopher Fast Lager Method&lt;/a&gt;. Essentially, it involves fermenting at normal lager fermentation temperatures until it is 50% attenuated, at which point the temperature is increased to 65°F/18.3°C over 36 hours &quot;until fermentation is complete and the yeast have cleaned-up after themselves&quot;. The temperature is then dropped to lagering temperatures and is kegged/bottled only 3-5 days later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only tasted 2 of them which are undergoing the diacetyl rest at 65°F/18.3°C, but I did not detect any esters or off flavors at all. Granted these are my first lagers, but I also have two pale ales that I accidentally fermented at 78°F/25°C for the first 1-3 days and I can noticeably detect esters and other off flavors there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Given the optimal temperature range for lager yeast tops out at 55°F/13°C, how come this method does not produce off flavors or esters?&lt;/strong&gt; I assume it has something to do with the fact that the temperatures are not increased until the lager is 50% attenuated, but I do not get why the yeast would only react poorly to higher temperatures if the wort was less than 50% attenuated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-21T13:36:57.237" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T21:59:55.910" Title="Why doesn't the Brulosopher Quick Lager Method produce esters and other off flavors?" Tags="|yeast|lager|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14996" CreationDate="2015-03-21T03:23:34.723" Score="4" ViewCount="2915" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making a cider (for the first time)... it's been in primary for a week, and went to secondary for another three weeks. I used crisp apple cider from Trader Joe's as the base. OG was about 1.056 and it fermented to 1.001. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, now I have two issues... it has a funky bittery, acetone-ish taste with funky smell (not like when your beer goes really bad and starts tasting like baby diapers). I had the same when I was making mead, and the cure was time (in 6 month it totally cleared out). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, it has a flat taste. I do not taste anything else. It is not sour at all, and seems like everything fermented out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, can I add apple concentrate to make more applish or maybe a little bit of lemon acid to make it little bit sour? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard also, that making a second batch with upper FG and blending it would also work...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be your suggestion? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T18:44:46.370" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T19:14:37.773" Title="Cider went too dry and too flat" Tags="|fermentation|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14975" CreationDate="2015-03-21T09:15:12.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the fermentation the yeast have access to some oxygen and/or stores of the metabolites made with oxygen. This allows them to replicate a few times, so naturally that's what they do. A byproduct of this is ester production, and other stuff (acetaldehyde, diacetyl, maybe some sulfury compounds, etc) that we usually don't like in our beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later on, without oxygen, all they can do is try to fatten up for the winter:  eat sugar, make alcohol, and consume other metabolites left over from the replication stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AFAIK ale and lager yeast both do this, but the timing is apparently different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T09:15:12.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14982" CreationDate="2015-03-21T10:29:06.667" Score="5" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do BIAB and in my constant search for ways to simplify my brew day I recently started to heat my mash with the grains already in. That is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I fill my kettle with the full water volume I'll be using (~27L). Water is about 10C this time of the year.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I dough the bagged grains in. The bag is bound by a string and kept slightly off the bottom of the kettle. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I apply heat until I reach my mash temperature, mixing the grains every now and again, turn off the heat and wait 90 minutes (I'm sure the conversion happens way before that, but I give it 90 minutes anyway).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I mash out, remove the grains and proceed to the boil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process allow me to more precisely control the mash temperature (heating the water above the mash temperature and adding the grains has always given me mixed results).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that enzymes are denatured when a certain temperature is reached, my mash goes through all the 'rests' until reaching the starch conversion rest at my target mash temperature. The heating process take around 30-40 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any drawbacks in doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastEditorUserId="2295" LastEditDate="2015-03-21T17:20:49.320" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T01:42:47.833" Title="Any drawback in heating the mash with grains in?" Tags="|mash|conversion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14975" CreationDate="2015-03-21T13:39:41.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;He mentions it in the linked article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A few things we’ve learned over the last couple centuries of brewing is that yeast generally works slower at cooler temperatures and faster at warmer temperatures, most esters and phenolics are produced during the growth phase of fermentation, which in my experience lasts about 4-5 days for lager strains, and beer lagers faster at colder temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wait to raise the temp until about 50% fermentation, the yeast are well past their growth phase, where most esters are produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just started to use this method (once a few weeks ago, and again started tomorrow), but initial results are good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T13:39:41.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14942" CreationDate="2015-03-21T18:18:35.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is from BJCG, Instructions to Mead Guidelines about carbonation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2008_Guidelines.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP STYLE GUIDELINES 2008 edition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A mead may be still, petillant, or sparkling. Still meads do not have&#xA;  to be totally flat; they can have some very light bubbles. Petillant&#xA;  meads are “lightly sparkling” and can have a moderate, noticeable&#xA;  amount of carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2014%20BJCP%20Style%20Guidelines%20(DRAFT).pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP STYLE GUIDELINES 2014 Draft&lt;/a&gt;, which should be released sometime this March (or this year) adds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Minor differences from stated carbonation level should not be a&#xA;  heavily-penalized or disqualifying fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's okay. I have made 3 standard size (5-gallon) and 8 small (1-gallon) of mead. Only traditional semisweet mead (both times) had light carbonation, but it didn't cause any issues with the mead itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T18:18:35.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14975" CreationDate="2015-03-21T20:17:36.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a long-time practitioner of this method, I'd recommend waiting longer than this article suggests. For me, the real benefit of the technique is an accelerated reduction of diacetyl at the end of fermentation, since by the time esters have maxed out (more on that below) pretty much all other potential off-flavors (higher alcohols, acetaldehyde, sulfur compounds) will have peaked, or otherwise will benefit from a warmer conditioning. I typically raise the temperature around 60-70% attenuation (off the top of my head), and depending on expected attenuation limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's true that ester formation is linked to yeast growth, it isn't a one-to-one kind of deal. For example, trusty old &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=QpDVsu-vaBcC&amp;amp;printsec=frontcover&amp;amp;dq=brewing+yeast+and+fermentation&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=4IANVcuuGJGAsQSNkIDYCQ&amp;amp;ved=0CDAQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=ester&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewing Yeast and Fermentation&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Several reports... have observed that ester synthesis occurs at low rates during the period of active yeast growth and then proceeds at high rates when yeast growth rate declines in mid to late fermentation. These authors claimed a correlation between the time of onset of rapid ester formation and cessation of lipid synthesis&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbaa.com/publications/tq/tqPastIssues/1999/Abstracts/tq99ab11.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt; investigating levels of isoamyl acetate and ethyl acetate formation during non-agitated lager fermentations in the laboratory, both remained relatively low until about 100 hours into fermentation, at which point they increase rapidly for 1-3 days, depending on original gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking into account that, realistically, most ester synthesis happens towards the end of active yeast growth, I prefer to wait until the very last minute to raise the temperature, allowing fast diacetyl reduction with little risk of ester formation. Remember, of course, that the exact timing will depend a lot on your temperature control setup and batch size, since unless you can remove the fermenting beer to room/ambient temperature to help it warm up, you'll have to rely on the exothermic heat of the fermentation itself to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T20:17:36.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14978" CreationDate="2015-03-21T23:25:36.210" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you shoot for a saccharification rest around 65°C, the mash is heating up between ~1.4 and 1.8°C per minute. You'd make it through the 45-55° glucanase/protease range in ~5-7 minutes. I can't see this having a real effect on the wort composition, and I can't think of any other reason this technique would really make a difference. I'd say you'll be fine doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on the topic of saving time, I agree with you about the 90 minute mash being overkill. For virtually all base malts, it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T22:58:22.247" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T22:58:22.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14970" CreationDate="2015-03-23T10:11:48.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you freeze and add sugar later ... remember that it could start to ferment again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12000" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T10:11:48.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14990" CreationDate="2015-03-23T15:13:11.627" Score="2" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I did my 12th brew. My third in my current equipment setup. All-Grain BIAB where my efficiency has been consistently over %70. My previous brew, an IPA I hit all my numbers. I changed no variables for this beer except of course the recipe. I striked at 158F, mashed for 90 minutes at 153F (stirred many times). My one gallon recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5lb White Wheat Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;0.5lb Pilsen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60 min boil on .2oz Tettnang.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post mash, I lost .125 gallons of water as expected (left with 2 gallons in pot). Hit a pre-boil gravity of 1.022. Was expecting 1.027. I guess that doesn't seem huge, but come end of boil I had .1 gallons of trub and 1 gallon of wort, which measured in at 1.035. Any ideas as to what would have led to numbers like this? And what steps should I take in the future to ensure better numbers? I ask about the white wheat in particular because it is the only ingredient I have not used in a mash before (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.austinhomebrew.com/Beer/Base-Malts/White-Wheat-Malt.html#.VRAtKo7F-30&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link to malt&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10767" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T23:36:20.247" Title="Need help diagnosing efficiency on a wheat beer" Tags="|biab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14988" CreationDate="2015-03-23T17:50:12.963" Score="4" ViewCount="677" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing all grain, my mash tun can't hold my full sparge volume. So I step it, a few gallons at a time. I've read that the sparge water should be 170 F to stop the enzyme reaction. But when stepping my sparge, do the later steps need to be 170, or just the first step to stop the enzymes? Can the enzymes restart between steps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the comments, by step batch sparge I mean a batch sparge of 5 or 6 gallons, in steps of 2 or 3 gallons, repeated to get to the boil volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T19:58:14.283" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T19:58:14.283" Title="Mash-out and batch sparging" Tags="|temperature|sparge|batch-sparge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14991" CreationDate="2015-03-23T18:23:42.033" Score="0" ViewCount="1351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a new homebrewer, I have brewed about 5 extract kits, one from austinhomebrew.com and the rest from Northernbrewer.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will eventually order items to do my own extract recipes, but until then I will continue to brew from the kits to get more experience under my belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to favor IPAs and Pale Ales, with that said, where is the cheapest site I can buy those types of 5 gallon kits at? I like Northernbrewer but I feel like there are stores online that provide the same quality but at a better price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/recipe-kits/extract-kits/dead-ringer-ipa-extract-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/recipe-kits/extract-kits/dead-ringer-ipa-extract-kit.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All recommendations are appreciated, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10679" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T03:39:10.050" Title="Where is the best place to order 5 gallon extract kits?" Tags="|kits|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14986" CreationDate="2015-03-23T18:25:59.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to assume you're basically doing &quot;batch sparging&quot; (adding the sparge liquor in batches due to capacity), not that you're &quot;step mashing&quot; (using hot water infusions to move the whole mash through a set of different temperature &quot;steps&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the enzymes are denatured, they are … denatured. :) They will not return or restart their ability to convert starch to sugar once they get too hot and are destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, only your first infusion would need to be a mash-out infusion. Assuming you've already mashed at the appropriate temp (145-156) and for an appropriate length of time (45-60 minutes), you can then do a mash out, and your subsequent batch sparges are just going to rinse the already-converted sugars from the mash, not do any more conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will note that doing a mash-out is an ideal practice particularly for repeatable results and promoting lower mash viscosity, but certainly not required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T19:21:21.663" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T19:21:21.663" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14992" CreationDate="2015-03-23T23:29:12.547" Score="1" ViewCount="537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I perhaps may have made an oops and I bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00JSYNN80&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; thermowell, thinking it would be &lt;em&gt;easier&lt;/em&gt; to secure it to the lid than the regular straight walled one that everyone puts in a dual stopper. I thought to myself, &quot;how does that thing stay in the hole, wouldn't the pressure work it outwards?&quot; (a bit more of research here would have done me wonders..) Also I have one of the famed ds18b20 sensors, I got this one with a bit extra diameter to accommodate the probe. At least that's working for me...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway. I have my purchase and I am attempting to affix it to the bucket lid but it's turning out to be harder than I thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latest thought is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/pd_51323-1815-439130RMC_0__?productId=3373008&amp;amp;Ntt=1%2F2%22%20pvc%20bushing&amp;amp;pl=1&amp;amp;currentURL=%3FNtt%3D1%252F2%2522%2Bpvc%2Bbushing&amp;amp;facetInfo=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PVC bushing&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Pipes-Fittings-PVC-Pipe-Fittings/Nut/N-5yc1vZbuf5Z1z114wo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nut&lt;/a&gt; (Whatever size I can make match) I was also looking for a gasket but I feel like I'm veering of into over engineering territory. I was hoping for some sort of threaded flange to begin with, hopes and dreams dashed in the Lowe's plumbing aisle. This would probably be over if I had a 3d printer, but maybe I think so because I want one, but I digress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone out there have any ideas? Gasket or no gasket? I just want to be able to take it completely apart for cleaning and sanitizing reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read a few discussions about thermowell vs tape to bucket. I'm in the thermowell camp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pEdft.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b66Jk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10695" LastEditorUserId="10695" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T02:33:47.350" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T02:33:47.350" Title="Securing a threaded thermowell into a bucket lid" Tags="|temperature-probe|bucket-heater|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14985" CreationDate="2015-03-23T23:36:20.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best guess I can venture is that the wheat was milled too coarsely to allow for good solubilization and conversion of the starch with your equipment set. In my experience, wheat malt tends to be less friable than barley malt (as in: the endosperm, where all the starch is, doesn't break down to sufficiently small particles quite as easily). With BIAB, where you don't have to worry about lautering, you can mill quite fine to get better extract efficiency, and a less-than-ideal grind coupled with the already-low efficiencies you tend to see with BIAB may have led to your low extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another, less likely option could be insufficient starch conversion. Though most wheat malts have very good diastatic power (meaning they have enough endogenous enzymes to convert their own starch to fermentable sugars when mashed), I have heard of wheat malts having lower diastatic power. Unfortunately I can't figure from the link provided whose wheat malt it is you're using, so that's really a shot in the dark. But if it did happen to be a poor self-converter, the wheat malt in such a high proportion could have caused this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T23:36:20.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14987" CreationDate="2015-03-24T01:17:23.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of these retailers are in competition with each other, which keeps margins and prices pretty low. The only way you might be able to squeeze out a better deal is finding an online retailer that is physically closer to you (to reduce shipping costs). And/or wait for clearance sales. Breaking out of pre-packaged kits will let you bulk order ingredients to get a minor cost advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also plug purchasing from your Local Homebrew Shop (LHBS). They, too, are probably going to be at par in terms of cost, but supporting local businesses is good, too.  Plus, they can amortize some of that shipping cost across your entire community, but that's going to save fractions of a penny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T01:17:23.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14989" CreationDate="2015-03-24T01:58:26.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/weldless-kettle-bulkhead.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;weldless bulkhead&quot;&lt;/a&gt; approach used for adding a port to mash-tun coolers and such. From bottom to top:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[thermowell] [nut] [gasket] [washer] [bucket-lid] [nut]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put a 1/2 hole through the bucket lid, then use two nuts to hold it against the lid, with a gasket/washer combo to create a seal. Adjust the thermowell so there's little/no exposed threads on the inside of the bucket. Use stainless washer/nuts and food-safe gasket material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, you probably don't even need to get an airtight seal with a bucket lid, as you probably already have tons of headspace where you won't have krausen being pressed up into the lid. Two nuts would do the trick.  Honestly, just one nut on the top would hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also … the thermowell was only $10. Maybe just get a better suited one and forgo a lunch out, or whatever? ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T01:58:26.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14989" CreationDate="2015-03-24T04:14:19.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can buy some appropriate plastic and epoxy (or just a bunch of epoxy), you can build up a thick spot on the lid and then drill &amp;amp; tap it. Drilling &amp;amp; tapping plastic should be easy, easier than drilling a hole in wood. Then you can just screw the thermowell into the lid as needed. And you probably won't need teflon tape either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T04:31:34.980" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T04:31:34.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14997" CreationDate="2015-03-24T08:59:00.113" Score="4" ViewCount="1956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made an OG 1.060 apple cider (Gravenstein apples and added sugar), fermented with Red Star Pasteur Champagne yeast. It has fermented out to SG 1.002, has been stored for about 5 months, and has very little body and surprisingly little flavor compared to my earlier attempts, using Wyeast 4766.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to increase the body post-fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T11:11:43.010" Title="How to increase body of apple cider?" Tags="|cider|body|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14976" CreationDate="2015-03-24T18:18:51.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your cider is very young to draw many conclusions.  In my experience, you have to think of cider more like wine than beer.  Give it another 6 months of conditioning and it should taste better.  You can add lemon, acid blend, grape tannin...a lot things to &quot;liven it up&quot;.  Start with a small amount, taste and adjust.  But above all, give it time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T18:18:51.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14976" CreationDate="2015-03-24T18:47:48.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the &quot;funky bittery, acetone-ish&quot; flavors are most likely fusel alcohols that yeast likes to throw off when it's under stress. One way to prevent this is to make sure it has enough nutrients (particularly nitrogen). In the mead world, this is usually resolved with the addition of nutrients such as Fermaid K and diammonium phosphate (abbreviated &quot;DAP&quot;). I'm not sure if this is common practice with simple ciders, but I could see it being an issue if a yeast has high nutrient requirements or if your unfermented juice/cider is particularly low in nutirents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High fermentation temperature is another common contributing factor to fusel and general &quot;off-flavor&quot; production. According to the information on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp775-english-cider-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;White Labs website&lt;/a&gt;, WLP775 has a preferred temperature range of 68-75°F (20-24°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, like mead, the best cure for that fusel alcohol burn is time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the cider going dry, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp775-english-cider-yeast#faq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;faq section of the White Labs WLP775 page&lt;/a&gt; puts the alcohol tolerance of that yeast around 12%. Right now, you're sitting at about 7.56%. If you want to sweeten it up, you could always stabilize and backsweeten. If you backsweeten with some apple concentrate or extra juice, that could provide a little more apple flavor and acidity, depending on how much you sweeten. If you add it without stabilizing, though, then your yeast is just going to chew through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you wanted to &quot;sour&quot; it up, you could add some acid blend (or lemon juice, I guess) to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, though, it sounds like you just need to let your cider age a bit. I would give it a few more months for the flavors to develop before declaring it a failure or a success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a pdf from the Northern Brewer that hits on some of these points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2785/6868/files/cider.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2785/6868/files/cider.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On nutrients: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Add yeast nutrient. Wyeast Wine or Beer Nutrient, or generic&#xA;  Yeast Nutrient. Roughly 1/4 tsp per gallon is a good starting&#xA;  point. Be prepared to add more once fermentation is well under&#xA;  way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On acid additions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;OPTIONAL: Add acid. Most juice, especially juice made from&#xA;  later season apples, will have a lot of sweetness, but little acid.&#xA;  Acid helps to balance the cider by adding sharp, crisp character.&#xA;  Small amounts of malic acid can be added to taste, up to&#xA;  one tablespoon in five gallons. To ensure more accuracy and&#xA;  repeatability, consider measuring the pH or using an acid titration&#xA;  kit to determine approximate acid content. Remember,&#xA;  it’s always possible to add a little more, so err on the side of&#xA;  caution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's actually a lot of good information in the document. If you plan on making more ciders and meads, it would be worth taking a quick look at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastEditorUserId="8203" LastEditDate="2019-09-10T19:14:37.773" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T19:14:37.773" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14994" CreationDate="2015-03-24T20:22:01.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you carbonate it, that carbonation should give it a perceived fuller body. Aside from that, you could try adding some grape tannin or some acid blend, as those should help it feel fuller and more complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a pretty decent primer from the Norther Brewer on basic cider making that covers these points in brief:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2785/6868/files/cider.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2785/6868/files/cider.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On tannin addition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;OPTIONAL: Add tannin. &lt;strong&gt;Tannin helps the cider's &quot;grip&quot; and&#xA;  structure.&lt;/strong&gt; These are sensations more than flavors, but can&#xA;  add wonderful complexity to the finished product. Start small,&#xA;  as &lt;strong&gt;it doesn't take much to get the desired effect.&lt;/strong&gt; Liquid or&#xA;  dry tannin can be used to equal effectiveness. Remember,&#xA;  it's always possible to add a little more, so err on the side of&#xA;  caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On acid additions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;OPTIONAL: Add acid. &lt;strong&gt;Most juice, especially juice made from&#xA;  later season apples, will have a lot of sweetness, but little acid.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Acid helps to balance the cider&lt;/strong&gt; by adding sharp, crisp character.&#xA;  Small amounts of malic acid can be added to taste, up to&#xA;  one tablespoon in five gallons. To ensure more accuracy and&#xA;  repeatability, consider measuring the pH or using an acid titration&#xA;  kit to determine approximate acid content. Remember,&#xA;  it's always possible to add a little more, so err on the side of&#xA;  caution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of other good general information in that pdf. If you plan on making more ciders, I think it's worth it to give it a quick read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastEditorUserId="8203" LastEditDate="2019-09-10T19:15:17.327" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T19:15:17.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-25T01:41:31.543" Score="0" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making my first &quot;original recipe &quot; beer. I've used proven recipes until now. This time I took what I learned and changed things up to create my own. Problem is that now that it's in the fermenter for the second day the top is bulged out like it's ready to explode and a steady stream of foam is coming out of the air lock. Am I creating a high ABV beer or am I creating a monster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12007" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T02:51:51.583" Title="Fermenter is ready to explode" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14998" CreationDate="2015-03-25T02:51:51.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to know what you're creating when you did not tell us about any of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the recipe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extract or all grain; mash temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gravity readings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what size/volume fermentor; bucket or carboy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fermentation temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the fermentor: it's great (!) that there is foam coming out the airlock since that means it won't explode. But the fact that the fermentor (I'm assuming and damn sure hope you're talking about a plastic bucket) is bulging at all is scary. Please open the lid to relieve the pressure. Open the side away from you, and be prepared for a bit of a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Research &quot;blow off tube&quot; for ways to deal with that problem in the future … although if you're fermenting reasonable-gravity, 5gl beers in a homebrew-standard 6gl bucket, you really shouldn't have much in the way of blow-off issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post more detail about your recipe, &amp;amp;c., if you want proper feedback on what might have happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T02:51:51.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14987" CreationDate="2015-03-25T09:26:44.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just for an alternative perspective on brew shops in your locality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Establishing a relationship with a good proprietor / staff will allow you to trade ideas / recipes / advice often at a similar price to online retailers; in fact, the kits I purchase tend to be cheaper if shipping is taken into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also good brew shops will often point you in the direction of a local brew community / group where advice, etc. can be an interesting diversion if that's your kind of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat 1: I'm in the UK so there's about 3 shops within 20 miles or so - although rumour has it that the US is slightly larger so literally YMMV ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat 2: I don't own a brew shop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8395" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T09:26:44.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15004" CreationDate="2015-03-25T18:41:07.110" Score="-1" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a number of kettle add-ons and am just wondering what the benefits are? I saw a Hot Liquor Tank, false bottoms, etc.. I'm just interested in learning all I can. I currently just have a basic 8 gallon pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://moreflavor-pavinthewaysoftw.netdna-ssl.com/product_image/morebeer/232x240/7000.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12014" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T23:29:25.197" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T23:36:26.857" Title="What is the benefit of a Fermentap kettle" Tags="|kettle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-25T18:57:47.057" Score="2" ViewCount="1117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any recipe for brewing a all Liquid Malt Extract without boiling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make hop tea with some LME, lets say about 5l(1.3 gallons) and mix it with warm water and LME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may prevent me from waiting long time before wort get cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12015" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T20:42:39.897" Title="All Liquid Malt Extract without boiling" Tags="|lme|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15002" CreationDate="2015-03-25T23:36:26.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The kettle you linked to has has two drilled holes into which are fitted &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=weldless+bulkhead&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=sEETVerdCNPaoATBjoL4BQ&amp;amp;ved=0CC4QsAQ&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=608&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;weld-less bulkheads&lt;/a&gt;. The bottom one has a ball valve attached to it, allowing you to empty the kettle from there (instead of picking up the whole thing and pouring, or siphoning the liquid out). The top is plugged but would usually hold a thermometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefits of add-ons depend entirely on what you plan to do with it as they tend to be specific to a particular purpose (i.e. mash tuns need a false bottom to allow wort separation and a thermometer to monitor temperature, while a kettle may only need the bottom valve for emptying). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T23:36:26.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15010" CreationDate="2015-03-26T03:26:05.437" Score="6" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of my bottles usually turn out over carbonated, and some turn out under carbonated. Is there a good technique to get consistent carbonation? I imagine it is a function of both evenly distributed priming sugar and also the yeast. The latter might be more difficult to achieve since it settles a bit during bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10707" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T15:30:23.673" Title="How can I get more consistent carbonation in bottles?" Tags="|yeast|bottling|carbonation|priming|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14987" CreationDate="2015-03-26T03:39:10.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like MoreBeer. But I am lucky because they are also my local store&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11982" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T03:39:10.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15005" CreationDate="2015-03-26T04:36:08.980" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a chart that provides this info. I use sugar cubes for consistency.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.kegoutlet.com/media/uploads_ckeditor/Carbonatin-Chart.jpg&amp;amp;imgrefurl=http://www.kegoutlet.com/keg-carbonation-chart.html&amp;amp;h=741&amp;amp;w=960&amp;amp;tbnid=MlpE8A_fRys_XM:&amp;amp;zoom=1&amp;amp;docid=2lDqdYiB4YtYLM&amp;amp;ei=74sTVa7FD4uyogSN3YGYDA&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;client=ms-android-hms-tmobile-us&amp;amp;ved=0CB0QMygAMAA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.kegoutlet.com/media/uploads_ckeditor/Carbonatin-Chart.jpg&amp;amp;imgrefurl=http://www.kegoutlet.com/keg-carbonation-chart.html&amp;amp;h=741&amp;amp;w=960&amp;amp;tbnid=MlpE8A_fRys_XM:&amp;amp;zoom=1&amp;amp;docid=2lDqdYiB4YtYLM&amp;amp;ei=74sTVa7FD4uyogSN3YGYDA&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;client=ms-android-hms-tmobile-us&amp;amp;ved=0CB0QMygAMAA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12016" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T04:36:08.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15005" CreationDate="2015-03-26T05:30:56.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast that carbonates your beer should already be in suspension, that is, invisible without a microscope. So, unless you've filtered the beer, don't worry about the yeast. Don't stir up the yeast cake either, those might not be very happy/tasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, you should stir the sugar into the beer to get good carbonation, as discussed &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10168/no-carbonation-and-a-few-bottle-bombs&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and in many other questions. I gently  stir several times with my sanitized racking cane, to get most of the beer visibly turning, before I slowly add my sugar. Works quite well and if a bit of the yeast cake gets picked up it seems to drop right out again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other other hand, if you do need to add a yeast for conditioning, just stir it into the beer as you would with the sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T05:30:56.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15005" CreationDate="2015-03-26T12:16:43.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rack your beer out of the fermenter into a sanitised bottling bucket, which could just be another fermenter, where the beer is evenly mixed with all your priming sugar before being bottled straight from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally the under / over carbonation issue is caused by differing amounts of priming sugar added to each bottle when priming the bottle individually. This extra stage ensures even distribution of priming sugar and yeast throughout the batch so the bottles are much more consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T12:16:43.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15005" CreationDate="2015-03-26T15:19:35.280" Score="11" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;weigh your priming sugar, don't measure the volume&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;boil it in just enough water to dissolve it for a few minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pour that sugar syrup into your bottling bucket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rack the beer onto the sugar mixture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give it a couple gentle stirs with a sanitized spoon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That works for me.  Hopefully it will work for you, too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T15:19:35.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15005" CreationDate="2015-03-26T15:28:13.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I switched to kegs, the easiest and most reliable method I found was to siphon off some of the beer (typically a litre or so), warm it in a saucepan, and dissolve the appropriate amount of priming sugar. I used dextrose or some other invert sugar since it seems more likely to ferment out thoroughly, and less likely to impart off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I let the priming liquid cool before gently stirring it back into the main batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[ edit: Oops, I just noticed Denny Conn beat me by about 8 minutes. I'll let this stand for whatever it's worth. ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T15:28:13.360" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14987" CreationDate="2015-03-26T15:50:10.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also highly recommend a local homebrew shop. I find that the kits are cheaper when you factor in shipping. Another big plus is that the yeast comes straight from their fridge and into your fridge... no sitting out in the heat during shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10707" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T15:50:10.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14987" CreationDate="2015-03-26T17:07:03.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the US shops have an account on Amazon, thus you can dig for a better deal through Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T17:07:03.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15005" CreationDate="2015-03-26T17:10:33.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably want to make sure that you put equal amount of sugar in each bottle... I guess, the best way is to use a syringe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T17:10:33.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15017" CreationDate="2015-03-26T18:31:42.103" Score="4" ViewCount="884" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I come up short on my pre-boil volume. I've read in a few places that, if this is the case, one should directly top off the wort with water before boiling instead of first running the water through the mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being that I usually try to get as high an efficiency and OG as possible, this has never made much sense to me, so I usually run the top-off water through the mash tun and then into the brew pot opposed to just adding plain water to the pot which would dilute the wort a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any cons to this method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T00:03:28.140" Title="Adjusting Low Pre-boil Volume: Sparging More Water vs. Topping Off With Water" Tags="|sparge|mashing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15015" CreationDate="2015-03-26T19:22:20.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is the risk of &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/tannins-mash/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tannin extraction&lt;/a&gt; when the mash pH rises above 5.8. High temperatures exacerbate the problem. My guess is if you just add cool water, stir, and drain then the low temperature and short contact time will minimize the risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T19:22:20.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15015" CreationDate="2015-03-26T19:25:18.990" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cons I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the gravity of the run-off from the mash decreases, the pH increases (towards the pH of the sparge water) and with it the chances of leaching astringent-tasting polyphenol compounds (&lt;em&gt;tannins&lt;/em&gt;) from the grain, especially at high temperatures (&gt;176°F). If you're after &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; last bit of sugar, you could possibly do more harm than good by over-sparging.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming your mash bed has run dry, you may have to recirculate any water you add to get sufficiently clear wort. If it hadn't run dry, I assume you'd just use that to top up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It takes longer than just adding water, but not significantly more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the last two are fairly minor, and even the first will probably be of limited consequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should note that this situation is always a tradeoff between volume and gravity. If you're below the desired pre-boil volume &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; the gravity is lower than expected, topping up will exacerbate the problem. If, however, the wort is stronger than expected, you could top up. Personal preference will dictate what's more important, the volume or the gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy to estimate how much water you need for a specific pre-boil volume based on how much grain you'll use. Every pound of grain will predictably retain roughly 1/8 gallon of water, so for any particular grain bill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Total water] = [Pre-boil volume] + ([pounds of grain] * [0.125 gal./lb.]) + C&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where C is your system loss (unrecoverable liquor left behind in the mash tun/tubing, etc.) You'll have to figure this out yourself, but it'll probably be between 1/4 and 1 gallon(s). For example, if you want 6 gallons, pre-boil, are using 15 lbs. of grain in the mash, and know your system retains ~.5 gallons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6 gal. + (15 lbs. * 0.125 gal./lb.) + 0.5 gal. = ~8.4 gallons&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd add half a gallon, just to be safe (more if you don't know your system loss yet). This could help avoid coming up short, assuming you don't do this already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T00:03:28.140" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T00:03:28.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14968" CreationDate="2015-03-27T05:32:44.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I buy whole coriander and use a mortar and pestle to crack the shells before adding it to the boil. Whole coriander keeps longer and will give a fresher aroma than pre-ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To grind it at home, a coffee grinder would probably be overkill. You only need to break the shells. If you don't have a mortar and pestle, you can use a meat tenderizing hammer (or even a regular hammer). Just put the whole coriander in a plastic bag, wrap it in a towel and tap it evenly. You don't want to turn it to dust as that makes it more difficult to filter out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it would be better to weigh the spices rather than use a teaspoon. A teaspoon of whole coriander versus a teaspoon of ground coriander can be very different by weight. 1 oz (28g) per 5 gallon batch is a common quantity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12018" LastEditorUserId="12018" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T17:22:51.820" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T17:22:51.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15021" CreationDate="2015-03-27T23:14:15.617" Score="6" ViewCount="5101" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've noticed with my kegerator, if I don't pour a beer for a few days, the taps can get very sticky.  So sticky sometimes that it actually takes a scary amount of force to pull the tap open to start to dispense beer.  My taps are pretty standard ones that came with my tower, something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNpCD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any kind of special grease I can buy or precautions I can follow as to keep my taps from getting stuck after a few days of no use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3997" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T20:32:10.970" Title="Kegerator taps stick when inactive" Tags="|cleaning|kegerator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14978" CreationDate="2015-03-28T01:42:47.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been doing basically what you're doing for at least a year now.  I'm not an award winning brewer by any means, but heating the water and grains together has worked just fine for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agreed on the 90 minute mash being unnecessary.  60 minute mashes are also not needed, and if you really want to save time look into doing &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Iodine_Test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iodine tests&lt;/a&gt; on your wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T01:42:47.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15019" CreationDate="2015-03-28T01:58:37.613" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue with this kind of faucet is that the seal is at the rear of the assembly (see &lt;strong&gt;10&lt;/strong&gt; below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AnTGE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After dispensing, everything post-seal (pretty much all of &lt;strong&gt;9&lt;/strong&gt;, parts of &lt;strong&gt;6&lt;/strong&gt;, and the inside of the tap body) will be coated in beer. Being open to the air this will soon dry out and gum up the works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best solution is to flush out the inside of the tap with water or no-rinse sanitizer after using it, to rinse away the beer. Just get a nice strong spray bottle, or anything capable of jetting some water up in there. It would be good to do this every time, but especially if you know it won't be used for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, pick up some &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007QU2UAA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;food-grade lubricant&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt; coat the moving parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing everything, you can upgrade to a modern &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chicompany.net/images/Repair%20Parts%20-%20Perlick%20SS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;front-sealing tap&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-03-28T12:31:31.137" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T12:31:31.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14974" CreationDate="2015-03-28T02:00:27.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sous vide cooking is probably what you're looking for.  There several different methods available, from &quot;rolling your own&quot; with a microcontroller, thermocouple, and heating element (note: you should really only do this if you know what you're doing with electroncs, due to dealing with line voltages for the heater); to using &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0088OTON4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cheap thermocontrollers&lt;/a&gt; with some slow cookers; to using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;field-keywords=sous%20vide%20immersion%20circulator&amp;amp;index=blended&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;immersion heaters/circulators&lt;/a&gt; in whatever vessels you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T02:00:27.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14987" CreationDate="2015-03-28T03:39:10.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, after 1 or 2 extract kits you know everything you need to know to start looking around on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f54/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HBT&lt;/a&gt; or the internet in general for your own recipes.  In which case you can plan a few brewdays ahead and start buying ingredients in bulk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T03:39:10.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14974" CreationDate="2015-03-28T17:26:17.173" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Picobrew Zymatic for that.  www.picobrew.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T17:26:17.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15027" CreationDate="2015-03-28T18:41:45.090" Score="3" ViewCount="1528" Body="&lt;p&gt;My water supply comes through San Diego's Miramar treatment plant, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sandiego.gov/water/pdf/wq13.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's the data sheet&lt;/a&gt;. Here's the relevant part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                    Units   Avg     Range&#xA;Total Hardness      ppm     214     142 - 243&#xA;Total Hardness      gr/Gal  12.2    8.3 - 14.2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And an excerpt from the footnotes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hardness is the sum of polyvalent cations present in the water, which is essentially the sum of magnesium and calcium. These cations are usually naturally occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, now, I'm trying to use this scale under &quot;Determining the Beer Styles That Best Suit Your Water&quot; in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ch. 15.3 of John Palmer's &lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m2OKF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is my Effective Hardness? Is it the same as Total Hardness?&lt;/strong&gt; (In which case, 214ppm seems very high on this scale—Is it possible my water is that hard?) &lt;strong&gt;Or, since the footnotes say Total Hardness is a &lt;em&gt;sum&lt;/em&gt;, is my best bet to split 214ppm by some rough, sane-looking proportions&lt;/strong&gt; like 75ppm Mg and 150ppm Ca, thus crossing over on the scale at about 145ppm Effective Hardness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, my CaCO3 level is 98.2ppm. Not sure this is relevant to hardness though—I imagine it's the non-alkaline Calcium that hardness is measuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do know a store near me where I can get reverse osmosis water for 35 cents a gallon which is basically nothing. I'm more just curious about tap water chemistry, especially for amateur brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6446" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T13:17:47.320" Title="How do I translate my water supply's &quot;Total Hardness&quot; to Mg and Ca or &quot;Effective Hardness&quot;?" Tags="|water|chemistry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15029" CreationDate="2015-03-28T18:42:17.540" Score="2" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was hoping that someone had worked out a formula to determine at which temperature a given volume of beer, at a given ABV, for a given length of time, will freeze?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm doing my first 6 lagers and will be dropping 2 of them to lagering temperatures soon. I've read the recommendation of laggering at 30-35F. I am concerned however because I regularlay freeze bottle of beer on accident in my freezer by leaving them too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T15:18:30.587" Title="Is there a formula to determine at which temperature a given volume of beer at a given ABV will freeze?" Tags="|temperature|lager|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15025" CreationDate="2015-03-28T22:26:58.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, you can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you dig into Palmer's &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/section3/Palmers_Mash_RA_ver3ptO.xls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spreadsheet version&lt;/a&gt;, you see that &lt;strong&gt;effective hardness&lt;/strong&gt; is equal to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[ppm Ca / 1.4] + [ppm Mg / 1.7]*&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;* See cell K15 on the &lt;em&gt;Mash&lt;/em&gt; sheet&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not getting too far into detail, this is a simplification of the Kolbach formula that Palmer refers to on the page you linked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Residual Alkalinity = mEq/L Alkalinity - [(mEq/L Ca)/3.5 + (mEq/L Mg)/7]&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;used to determine how much the alkalinity is offset by the hardness (more specifically how much is &lt;em&gt;left over&lt;/em&gt;, if any). &lt;em&gt;mEq/L&lt;/em&gt; means milliequivalents per liter, which is just a way of expressing concentrations of different ions by first converting them to a common unit, similar to using common denominators with fractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's the catch:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;total hardness&lt;/strong&gt; of 214 ppm does not &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; represent Ca or Mg concentrations, but rather the combination of their &lt;em&gt;equivalent amounts of CaCO&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, just as in the equation above. Put another way, it does not mean that the amount of Ca plus the amount of Mg in your water equals 214 ppm (e.g., 150 ppm Ca + 64 ppm Mg), but rather that whatever amount of Ca and Mg there is in your water, together, has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equivalent_weight&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;equivalent weight&lt;/a&gt; of 214 ppm &lt;em&gt;expressed as CaCO&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, telling you nothing about the concentration of either. A bit confusing? For sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you can't apply the &lt;strong&gt;total hardness&lt;/strong&gt; as your &lt;em&gt;effective hardness&lt;/em&gt; is because Ca and Mg offset the alkalinity to different degrees, as you can see in the equations above. There's just no way to make this formula work without knowing the specific proportions of Ca and Mg. Indeed, this is a very common shortcoming of many municipal water reports, which are definitely not tailored to the brewer's needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;- edit -&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone's interested, here's how the equation in Palmer's spreadsheet is derived:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the calcium and magnesium are converted to &lt;em&gt;mEq/L&lt;/em&gt; by dividing ppm of each by their respective equivalent weights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 ppm Calcium / 20&#xA;1 ppm Magnesium / 12.2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These numbers are then multiplied by 50, the equivalent weight of CaCO&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt; so they can be directly compared to alkalinity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Calcium -&amp;gt; [50 / 20]&#xA;Magnesium -&amp;gt; [50 / 12.2]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To finish it off, Kolbach's formula is applied to both:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Calcium -&amp;gt; [50 / 20] / 3.5 = 0.714&#xA;Magnesium -&amp;gt; [50 / 12.2] / 7 = 0.5855&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that against Palmer's equations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Calcium -&amp;gt; 1 ppm / 1.4 = 0.714, checks out&#xA;Magnesium -&amp;gt; 1 ppm / 1.7 = 0.588, close enough!&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T13:17:47.320" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T13:17:47.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14735" CreationDate="2015-03-29T01:04:06.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is incorrect to say alcohol will only vaporize at 174-178. The boiling point of alcohol is 173. It would be the same as saying water will only vaporize at 212. Of course water, like alcohol, will evaporate at lower temperatures. So alcohol and water can evaporate during fermentation, especially from a primary fermenter with no airlock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12020" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T01:04:06.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15026" CreationDate="2015-03-29T02:31:20.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/table-freezing-points-alcohol-solutions-192138/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;They sure have&lt;/a&gt;, at least in terms of the temperature/ABV% relationship. The table provided is for pure ethanol/water solutions so the freezing points provided will be slightly higher than for actual beer. Accounting for the effects of residual sugar, proteins and other things in solution seems incredibly complex; this is touched upon in some detail later in the same thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figuring out the rate at which a specific volume of liquid will freeze is a much different question though, and will depend on factors like the beer container (material, geometry, wall thickness, any insulation, etc etc) and the refrigeration system (whether there's forced convection in the refrigerant and the beer itself, the temperature differential, etc). For this, I don't think you could do more than venture a guess without more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking a look at the question's title, I should note that the volume of beer will have precisely no effect on the temperature at which it will freeze. This might be two separate questions, or that aspect of the question may be superfluous to the answer you're looking for here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;- edit II -&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out there is an equation for this (from &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=Q1r6xE6bE5MC&amp;amp;printsec=frontcover&amp;amp;dq=essays+in+brewing+science&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=g0MlVd7UCNTIsAS1noC4Ag&amp;amp;ved=0CB0Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=essays%20in%20brewing%20science&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this book&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Freezing point(°C) = -(0.42A + 0.04E + 0.2)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt; is the ABW% (alcohol by weight) and &lt;em&gt;E&lt;/em&gt; is the original gravity (in °Plato). This equation takes account of the effects of both the alcohol and the residual extract after fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T15:18:30.587" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T15:18:30.587" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15031" CreationDate="2015-03-29T18:52:28.873" Score="3" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;When brewing from extract recipes (&lt;em&gt;e.g.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerrecipes.org/showrecipe.php?recipeid=185&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Day After 1040A Wheat&lt;/a&gt;) should one assume dry malt extract (DME) or liquid malt extract (LME) if unspecified?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6446" LastEditorUserId="6446" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T16:18:47.713" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T15:36:40.493" Title="When brewing from extract recipes should one assume dry or liquid extract if unspecified?" Tags="|extract|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15030" CreationDate="2015-03-29T19:09:31.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to know is to look at the OG.  LME has 36 ppg and DME has about 45.  In the recipe you mention, the OG is 1.038 for 5 gal. and it calls for 6 lb. of extract.  Assuming LME, 36*6=216.  Divide by 5 for 5 gal. and you get 43ish.  That's darn close to the OG listed and DME would make the OG even higher, so that particular recipe must be for LME.  There's really no other way to tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T19:09:31.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15033" CreationDate="2015-03-29T20:49:03.393" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm actually not talking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1830/what-is-cold-steeping&quot;&gt;cold steeping&lt;/a&gt;. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerrecipes.org/showrecipe.php?recipeid=185&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recipe&lt;/a&gt; I'm using says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put 2.5 gallons of cold, filtered water into pot. Added malted wheat (in muslin bag) to pot and brought the water to 180 degrees. Steeped the wheat for 30 minutes. Removed bag of wheat and brought the water to boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;sounds&lt;/em&gt; like it's saying the wheat should be added to the pot while the water's still cold, but that doesn't make sense to me. It must mean to bring the water to 180 degrees &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; steep for 30 minutes, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6446" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T21:38:50.160" Title="Does it make sense to steep wheat in cold water as it is heating up?" Tags="|recipe|steeping|wheat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15032" CreationDate="2015-03-29T21:38:50.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either way will work and not make much difference.  However, if you steep at 180 you'll denature the enzymes that convert the starches to sugar.  The steep should be done between 145-160F for best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T21:38:50.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15038" CreationDate="2015-03-30T10:13:03.793" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took up home brewing as a hobby and brewed my first (small) batch of ale. It was a simple recipe-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;boil a litre of water with a LOT of sugar and some lemon juice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let it cool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pitch in the yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait for a couple weeks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottle and wait a couple of days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resulting brew was &lt;strong&gt;strong&lt;/strong&gt;- it literally knocked me out but boy was it foul tasting. I've read about a 'cardboard like taste' being imparted in ales due to oxygenation. Could that be the reason behind the terrible taste of my ale? I'm pretty sure the brew got oxygenated while bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone please tell me how I could improve the taste of subsequent batches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.: I'm an amateur so I don't have a brewing kit or even a hydrometer for that matter. And I live in India so my ale was 'hopless' (we don't have hops here)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10760" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T13:16:18.490" Title="Foul tasting ale" Tags="|off-flavor|ale|flavoring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-30T11:13:41.487" Score="0" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I began brewing BIAB with a starter kit for 1 gallon batches. I would like to move up to 5 gallon batches, but my original brew bag would be too small for the quantity of grains required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know nothing of &quot;needlework&quot;, I can buy material and give it to someone who would make it for me, but i need to buy the correct amount/dimensions of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What amount of material would I need to buy and what would the pattern dimensions be to make the actual bag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12027" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T12:18:04.233" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T18:35:00.440" Title="What dimensions should a brew bag be for 5 gallon batches?" Tags="|biab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15034" CreationDate="2015-03-30T11:36:57.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quite simply - that's isn't a beer nor ale, it would just be the creation of alcohol from the yeast and the sugar.  There would be no specific flavours to impart or develop from the yeast and I'm not surprised it tastes foul.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your approach is not dissimilar from the process of wine making (that said most brewing involves pretty much the same steps) - although you tend to add &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; kind of flavour into that using an appropriate wine yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend looking towards a simple beer kit to start you on your way or look towards Turbo Cider or a fruit wine if you have the time to dedicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8395" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T11:36:57.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1578" CreationDate="2015-03-30T13:11:09.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this is five years old, but I came across it while searching for the same question, so I'll throw in my two cents in case it helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing, most LMEs are hopped and most DMEs are unhopped, so you might use both to dial in the bittering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second thing, it seems it's easier to find lighter DMEs than LMEs, so you might use LME for the bulk of your malt and then a light DME to round out your OG without making your final product too dark. I came across this making a recipe for a light American pilsner in Brewsmith, actually, which is what led me here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12028" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T13:11:09.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15034" CreationDate="2015-03-30T13:16:18.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew in China, so I kinda know what you're dealing with. But we have Taobao so nearly everything can be obtained online. A quick look at Alibaba would suggest that at least hops and malt extract exist somewhere in India. If you're in an area that has beer, you could also try befriending someone at a brewery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the absence of that, you should consider using whatever you can get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad flavors come from the fermentations stage: wild yeast, bacteria or being too warm will make good thing taste bad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure everything is sanitized.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dried brewer's yeast is way better than bread yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can't get that, try to get an unfiltered beer as a yeast source.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to really experiment, try dipping (untouched) fruit into&#xA;the wort to start things (this will be mostly wild yeast, but this&#xA;method has been rumored to turn out great sometimes; aging might be&#xA;needed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add some good flavors you'll want to to use something other than sugar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many grains &amp;amp; grasses will make something that resembles beer,&#xA;although you might need to malt them yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fruit juice tends to be around 10% sugar, and can be fermented,&#xA;apples are especially popular. Some Brits I know like to get various&#xA;fruit concentrates from the market and make 'turbo cider'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mead is made from honey, but you'll want wine yeast to make good&lt;br&gt;&#xA;mead. Brewer's would make a drinkable beverage if you don't age it&#xA;too long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, you don't really need hops, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.in/Sacred-Herbal-Healing-Beers-Fermentation-ebook/dp/B00FP5DZ70/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1427721258&amp;amp;sr=8-7&amp;amp;keywords=buhner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this guy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T13:16:18.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15040" CreationDate="2015-03-30T15:14:35.723" Score="2" ViewCount="547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've add some mishaps with my standard Coleman-based mash tun, and I'm now left with a hole where the faucet was (some wort went &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the insulation, but I'd like to believe it won't impact temperature conservation).  I'm using a braid as filter.  I'm not a very bright handyman, hence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; How can I put a faucet back in such a way that there is no chance wort can leak into the insulation?  How can I ensure that even when the braid is moved a bit when stirring the mash, no space will be created allowing wort to leak? &lt;em&gt;I don't have the original plastic piece that fitted the hole.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My previous solution included some O-rings that got smashed by being on parts that were screwed too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8097" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T17:38:43.307" Title="Cooler mash tun: prevent leaks from faucet" Tags="|equipment|mash-tun|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15039" CreationDate="2015-03-30T15:25:06.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use my method.  Take a look at www.dennybrew.com.  I've used it for 17 years and 475 batches and it works perfectly.  You use a minikeg bung and a nylon valve.  I've found it much easier to build and more effective to use than a bulkhead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrlyK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;interior&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/POQHY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;exterior&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T17:38:43.307" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T17:38:43.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15039" CreationDate="2015-03-30T16:34:58.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want too look into the design of of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/weldless-kettle-bulkhead.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;weldless bulkhead&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/FF-Weldless-Bulkheads.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The instruction/installation guide (PDF)&lt;/a&gt; has a great breakaway view of the approach: using nipples, couplers, washers, orings and a locknut to compress the orings against the cooler walls to create a watertight seal. The trick is to get all the pieces appropriately sized, and to use a locknut that has a groove for the outer oring, such that it's evenly compressed rather than being squished. From outside to inside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[locknut] [oring] [cooler wall/threaded nipple] [oring] [washer] [threaded coupler]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you do have an oring involved, so perhaps the nut was over-tightened, pinching or squishing the oring, rather than compressing it?  Hard to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T16:34:58.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15035" CreationDate="2015-03-30T18:35:00.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/trimaco-supertuff-elastic-top-strainers/0000000014632&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;5 gallon paint straining bags&lt;/a&gt; for 5 gallon BIAB.  My suggestion is to buy a two pack (that's how they're sold) and use one as a sizing pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T18:35:00.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2231" CreationDate="2015-03-30T18:39:08.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Beersmith (roughly):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;27 g DME to 1 liter water will give you 1.010&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T18:39:08.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-30T19:52:51.880" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 15 gallon plastic drums, like what LME comes in. I would really like to use them to age my sours in but I'm concerned with O2 permeability. Has anyone tried this or have any good resources on types of plastic/permeability... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T01:45:32.633" Title="Using plastic drums for long term sour aging?" Tags="|aging|sour|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5648" CreationDate="2015-03-31T00:54:58.860" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left my beer in fermentation for 5 weeks because it didn't finish fermentation before a business trip.  It had a bad smell that stayed mostly with the fermentation bucket.  There was an off flavor that sunk in toward the end of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12031" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T00:54:58.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15045" CreationDate="2015-03-31T01:45:32.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the guys at &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/1102&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this sour-only brewery&lt;/a&gt; they use only glass, stainless or wood. Plastic lets in too much oxygen, leading to acetic acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the shape of a barrel allows them to eliminate the air space above the beer by topping up periodically with fermented beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW that link is a 3-1/2 hour podcast,  but I'm 95% confident the content is in there somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T01:45:32.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15049" CreationDate="2015-03-31T02:48:12.680" Score="1" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tried my first batch of home brew, and some of the bottles were over carbonated.  What caused it and what can I do about it in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12032" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T04:02:39.463" Title="Over Carbonated" Tags="|carbonation|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15048" CreationDate="2015-03-31T04:02:39.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If only some of the bottles were overcarbonated, in my experience that means the priming sugar wasn't mixed into the beer thoroughly enough in the bottling bucket.  Two ways to ameliorate that are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you have enough length, coil the tubing coming from your racking cane on the bottom of the bucket, creating a &lt;em&gt;gentle&lt;/em&gt; whirlpool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sanitize a spoon and &lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt; mix the beer/priming sugar mixture before bottling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem with the above two solutions is that it has the potential to oxygenate the mixture, so make sure to do it gently and with as little splashing as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T04:02:39.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15053" CreationDate="2015-03-31T15:01:42.057" Score="1" ViewCount="10551" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you need to add priming sugar when moving beer to a keg?  Will the CO2 from the system be enough to carbonate it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12034" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T15:33:21.433" Title="Priming sugar in kegs" Tags="|kegging|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-03-31T16:03:42.507" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15051" CreationDate="2015-03-31T15:32:46.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can prime the legs if you want to and some do.  Most don't however, since you have a tank of CO2 on hand anyway.  Priming also causes a buildup of sediment in the bottom of your keg, which makes it troublesome of you have to move it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T15:32:46.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15051" CreationDate="2015-03-31T15:33:21.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you want to carbonate in the keg, you have both options: priming &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; force carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Priming&lt;/strong&gt; is much as you would do it in the bottle. Just figure out how much carbonation you already have, how much you want and add the appropriate amount of priming sugar. The downside is that the secondary fermentation initiated by priming can take weeks to achieve proper results. &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1767/using-a-keg-for-secondary-fermentation-and-natural-carbonation&quot;&gt;Here's a good introduction to priming in kegs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Force carbonation&lt;/strong&gt; relies on the solubility of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; gas you're already using to dispense to achieve carbonation. Typically the beer would be transferred to the keg, chilled, then pressure applied. This method is very precise because the solubility of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; at any given temperature/pressure combination is well-known. Downside is that you pay for the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; you're injecting, rather than using (dirt-cheap) sugar to create it. Also, unless you agitate the beer while applying pressure, it can take many days for the gas to seep into the beer. This is why many brewers choose to use high pressure at cold temperatures for short periods of time while agitating the keg to speed up the process. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.draughtquality.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Carbonation_Volumes_Pressure_Temperature_Chart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This chart&lt;/a&gt; will give you an idea of the temperature/pressure relationship on the solubility of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T15:33:21.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-31T16:11:37.770" Score="0" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/grains/item/634-fermentation-temperature-control-tips-from-the-pros&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an article&lt;/a&gt; on fermentation temperature control where it says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, since yeast growth and fermentations are exothermic and therefore generate heat, figure that the temperature within the fermenter can be as much as 8 °F (4 ºC) higher than outside of the fermenter during the early days of fermentation. So beers that are fermenting in refrigerators set at 65 °F (18 ºC) are most likely fermenting at about 72 °F (22 ºC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 ºC is a huge difference!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I have a carboy in a fridge that's temperature controlled to 19 ºC (on the lower side of the optimal range for WLP351). The sensor strip is taped to the glass of the carboy, and consistently reading 19.2 ºC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if next time I should set the temperature control lower in the first 12 hours, but I realize I have no idea how that translates to change in different sections within the carboy—near the glass, the bottom, the top (where ale yeasts float, correct?), and so on. For example even if it's 19.2 ºC on the &lt;em&gt;outside&lt;/em&gt; of the glass, the liquid touching the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of the glass is probably much warmer due to convection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a gradient diagram or some rough formula that would help me determine the effective fermentation temperature (where the yeast actually is) from the outside glass temperature? Or, do I have to find a way to stick a (sanitized) sensor strip into the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6446" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T16:11:37.770" Title="Is there a way to estimate the actual temperature where the yeast ferments without having a sensor inside the carboy?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|measurements|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-03-31T17:20:24.150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10599" CreationDate="2015-03-31T20:00:55.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you consider the size difference of the container(s) the pictured? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homebrew will appear lighter in a smaller container and darker if shown in a large container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a 3 gallon carboy and a 10 gallon carboy will look completely different even when they're filled with the same liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T20:00:55.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5245" CreationDate="2015-03-31T20:07:23.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, no. As far as I know, most &quot;infected&quot; beer is a version of vinegar. Even something that is vinegar in smell and taste is difficult to drink so if it's really infected to the point of causing deadly illness, it's unlikely that you'll be able to stomach enough of it to cause anything beyond a stomach ache.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still stand by the rule that sanitation is the most important step in homebrewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T20:07:23.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-01T00:27:48.590" Score="0" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a good homebrewing blog that has video tutorials?&#xA;I've Googled it and found a bunch of video tutorial blogs, but they're not great.&#xA;Anyone know of some good ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12032" LastEditorUserId="12032" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T01:34:41.647" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T17:10:21.897" Title="Anyone Know of Any Homebrewing Video Tutorial Blogs" Tags="|beer|bottling|mash|ingredients|wort|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15073" CreationDate="2015-04-01T02:43:36.410" Score="10" ViewCount="12469" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I bottle my beers, I leave them on a shelving system to carbonate. Instead of throwing them all into the fridge, I just leave them on the shelves and move them individually into the fridge the morning before I intend on drinking them after work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there an optimal amount of time that a carbonated bottle of home brew should be in the refrigerator before it is opened? I.e., does all the carbon dioxide dissolve into solution once the temperature hits a certain degree, or is additional time required?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are wondering why I don't just stick all of the bottled beer in the fridge, this is why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vK9pv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T21:57:47.837" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T12:39:59.950" Title="How long should a carbonated bottle be refrigerated prior to drinking?" Tags="|bottling|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15058" CreationDate="2015-04-01T03:09:40.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not say that there is an 'optimal time' but several factors can affect your cellaring decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hoppy beers will stay hoppy longer when cold. Other spices probably do too - I've noticed that orange peel also goes away quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chill haze will go away with a long time spent in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as CO2 goes, all that gas is already dissolved, but cooling the beer will reduce the pressure. Papazian and others asserted that high CO2 pressure inhibits the yeast production of CO2, but I'm kind of skeptical of that. I feel like the carbonation will rise slightly over long time periods at any temperature, but that's just my impression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T03:09:40.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15058" CreationDate="2015-04-01T04:08:55.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to leave the bottles in the fridge for a minimum of 48 hours if I can.  This is based on my experiences with gushers; I seem to get a lot fewer if I let the beer &quot;settle&quot; in the chill chest.  There might be some confirmation bias involved in this, but it certainly does seem to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T04:08:55.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-01T04:38:17.830" Score="2" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll use a real life recipe for my lambic that I've been brewing over the years to allow for an answer that posts both the methodology and mathematics while also providing the calculated quantities I would need to follow for my recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my lambic recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Batch size: 11 gallons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Est. Efficiency: 85%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Est. Original Gravity: 1.054&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil Time 120 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil Loss: 1 gallon/hour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the grains, nothing too out of the ordinary (yes, only a quarter of it is wheat):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belgian Pilsner (75%) ~ 14lbs 8oz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torrified Wheat (25%) ~ 4lbs 13oz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I take the above stats for my lambic and perform a turbid mash?  What are the steps that need to be taken, at what temperatures, and with what amounts of water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:31:10.910" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:31:10.910" Title="How do I calculate a turbid mash schedule?" Tags="|mashing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-01T15:47:43.547" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made a batch of red wine but because the wine was too sweet I restarted the fermentation as I was advised. Of course I will need to de-gas the wine again, do I also need to use finings again to clear the wine?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12038" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T17:05:36.313" Title="Do I need to use finings again after restarting the fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|wine|finings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15058" CreationDate="2015-04-01T17:10:56.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of how the temperature will effect the carbonation and CO2. I have been more interested in the flavor impact of the serving temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the best answer for that would depend on two factors 1) What temperature you're storing them at now, and 2) what temperature do you want to serve at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to store my beer around &quot;cellar&quot; temperature in an unheated, but insulated, part of my house. And I like to serve most of my beers just a little cooler than that, so a little time (2 - 12 hours) in the fridge or the ice bucket is enough. I can't say I've really thought about how the carbonation changes, but next time I'll give it some thought. I will say that the serious gushers I've had were because of contamination and no amount of cooling would have helped them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently got a keg and have been serving that with a jockey-box. I don't know what temperature that gives, but I think it's a little warmer and I'm still happy with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T17:10:56.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15068" CreationDate="2015-04-02T10:31:20.697" Score="1" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;The room I use for fermenting is rather cold currently at around 8 degrees C, I had the idea to use a aquarium heater in a box of water to keep the temp around my bottles around 18 degrees, my aquarium heater arrived and its lowest temperature is 20 (strange it said 16 on the box its 50W), is this too high for second fermentation? The recommended temperature is around 18 so i've read. Will I cause any damage setting the temperature to 20? I am brewing a bitter and trying to follow the instructions with this brew to see how it turns out from the instructions as this is my first time home brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11987" LastEditorUserId="11987" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T14:29:21.553" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T15:02:21.673" Title="Second Fermentation In Water Bath" Tags="|temperature|secondary-fermentation|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T11:17:57.597" Score="4" ViewCount="1114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made some beer and it is not nice. Ruined by Chlorophenols. So... is there &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; I can do with it to make it usable in some form? I know it will not be drinkable but heck if I could clean the cooker with it that would be better than throwing it away :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12000" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T22:43:29.793" Title="What can I do with beer ruined by Chlorophenols" Tags="|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15065" CreationDate="2015-04-02T14:04:59.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You wouldn't want a sudden drop in temperature, or too low (8C is way too low), the yeast might give up completely instead of helping the beer mature. 20C should be no problem, the yeast shouldn't be making any esters at this stage. It's also the preferred temperature for the early stage of bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all assumes you're using a common ale yeast, and nothing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T14:04:59.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15065" CreationDate="2015-04-02T15:02:21.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since there is really no fermentation going on in secondary, temperature is of little concern.  as log as you don't get too hot, not much else matters.  In fact, there's seldom a need to do a secondary at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T15:02:21.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15058" CreationDate="2015-04-02T15:28:17.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CO2 dissolution in the beer is a function of temperature, gravity and head space pressure in bottle. It is not a linear function, it resembles a exponential function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Pepi is right about having a feeling that the longer it stays on the fridge, more carbonated it will be, the CO2 dissolution keeps going on, but after some time the increase is imperceptible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; you can find a table which shows the volume of CO2 dissolved on beer according to its temperature. It basically says: The higher the temperature of the beer the less dissolved CO2 you will have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I can't point you a book or link by heart, but I've heard and red that 48 hours as you said, is just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature you have to put it will be more related to how much CO2 volume your priming can give you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hope it helps,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T15:28:17.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T15:34:52.363" Score="1" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/fermtech-wine-thief.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; wine/beer thief so that I can take more regular samples over the course of fermentation. I plan to float my hydrometer directly in the tube of the thief, which requires me to draw off about an 8 oz sample. If I do this a few times a week over the course of fermentation, plus every day at the end to be sure FG has stabilized, this could add up to a lot of beer! So, I would like to return my samples to my carboy (maybe less a shot glass to taste).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were brewing in a bucket, I assume I would just press the tip of the thief against the side of the bucket just at the surface of the liquid. However, I don't think I can tilt the thief at enough of an angle through the neck of the carboy to hit the side. I don't want to release the sample straight into the neck of the carboy either, because that would allow it to splash and risk oxygenation. I suppose I could siphon from the thief back to the carboy... but that seems like a lot of trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone else who brews in a carboy and uses this thief know of any simple tricks that I'm missing here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as a side note, I realize that I increase my risk of infection by returning samples, so I of course will be carefully sanitizing everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit for clarification&lt;/strong&gt;: this particular thief has a one-way valve at the tip, allowing liquid to flow into the tube when it is submerged and stay in when it is withdrawn. As far as I can tell, the only way to release liquid from the thief is to press the tip against something, which &quot;unlocks&quot; the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8482" LastEditorUserId="8482" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T19:50:28.403" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T08:29:28.173" Title="Return samples from a fermtech wine/beer thief to a carboy" Tags="|fermentation|carboy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15058" CreationDate="2015-04-02T17:04:37.970" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If bottle-conditioning is completely finished, there's no reason it won't be ready to drink as soon as it's cold, if you're only considering carbonation. The amount of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in solution &lt;em&gt;is indeed&lt;/em&gt; determined by temperature and pressure, but since we're talking about a closed system, the &lt;strong&gt;total amount of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; inside the bottle&lt;/strong&gt; can't change once it's there, it can only move between the gaseous head-space and the liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accounting for both the different solubility &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; density of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; with changing temperature &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; pressure is somewhat complex. For example, some quick math shows that when aiming for 2.65 volumes of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in the finished beer, there are ~0.03 grams &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in the bottle's head-space at 65° than at 45°F (at equilibrium; 0.134g vs. 0.104g, respectively), assuming a head-space of 25cm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. As the temperature drops and the solubility increases this extra gas &lt;em&gt;will take time&lt;/em&gt; to reach a new equilibrium with the beer. &lt;strong&gt;BUT...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...that extra amount of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; which eventually moves &lt;em&gt;into&lt;/em&gt; the beer accounts for an increase of just 0.04 volumes, or 1.5% of 2.65 vol. A highly skilled trained taster probably couldn't differentiate between the same beer at 2.61 volumes and 2.65 volumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;em&gt;technically&lt;/em&gt;, yes the ideal time would be long enough for the new equilibrium to be reached (perhaps a day or two), but the reality is that the difference is pretty much negligible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T17:10:26.220" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T17:10:26.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15071" CreationDate="2015-04-02T19:20:05.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the taste of sweet wort, so I just drink my thief contents, but if you really don't want to waste your future beer, set up a one gallon sanitized carboy with its own airlock and put it next to your larger carboy.  Keep your testing leftovers in this second bottle so that if contamination does occur, it won't ruin the whole batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a fridge as a fermenting chamber and therefore don't have room for a regular gallon-size jug, there are some tall thin drinking water bottles that are only about 3 inches in diameter.  Might need to customize the stopper a little to make it fit the water bottle opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To minimize the likeliness of oxygenation when adding thief contents to a fermenting brew, you can always flood the air-space of the bottle with carbon dioxide before making the transfer.  (assuming you have some bottled gas around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T19:20:05.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2200" CreationDate="2015-04-02T21:43:55.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know your looking for larger, but thought others that find this thread might want to consider this. Large volume isn't the only reason to go to conical&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$100&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/fastferment-an-affordable-conical-beer-fermenter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beersmith.com/fastferment-an-affordable-conical-beer-fermenter/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12045" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T21:43:55.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15079" CreationDate="2015-04-03T14:56:18.167" Score="1" ViewCount="4262" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies if this is a duplicate - wasn't able to find anything similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making a 3gal batch of strawberry wine.  Poured sugar-water over fruit and set aside to cool.  Been having problems with bugs so I put the lid tight on bucket.  Anyway, life got ahead of me and forgot about the wine for two days.  Ran back to my bucket, opened the lid and was very surprised to see that the fruit had started fermenting without me!  Strawberries were clearly into primary fermentation already.  Fearing I would lose the wine, I added my yeast.  2 days later and things seem to be okay; primary is still going strong and must seems to be happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In doing research, it appears I stumbled into &quot;young country wine&quot; making, but all of the directions say to leave the bucket &lt;em&gt;uncovered&lt;/em&gt;.  My lid was tightly-closed, creating a secondary-like environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read there are natural yeasts on the fruit and in the air, but I removed the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt; Can anyone explain what happened? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3471" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T17:08:34.290" Title="Wine fermentation without yeast?" Tags="|yeast|wine|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15078" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:08:34.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All fruit has naturally occurring yeast on the skin. This is almost certainly why your strawberry wine starting fermenting spontaneously. Some winemakers (but not me!) prefer to let the wild yeast on the grape skins ferment the juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information &lt;a href=&quot;https://winemakermag.com/758-wild-yeast-the-pros-and-cons-of-spontaneous-fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T17:08:34.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15081" CreationDate="2015-04-03T19:02:50.203" Score="2" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is likely a silly question to a lot of you but I'm trying to weigh the pros and cons, no matter how minor, of a conical before I make the jump. I'm maybe too paranoid about oxidation, but one of the main selling points of conical manufacturers is &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; oxidation. I could actually argue the opposite: With the design of most conicals you're going to introduce oxygen, from the bottom, after you attach a second bulb and open the valve back up. RIGHT? What's everyone's thoughts on how much oxidation that can cause? Is there processes/valve designs that avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I ferment in carboys and pressurize them to push back out the racking tube...mostly so that I can leave them in the bottom of my freezer w/o disturbing the trub. But also, depending on beer style and how long I'm going to age, I pre-prime the lines and keg and can probably guarantee &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; little contact with air...ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm also leaving it in one vessel for primary, secondary, and sometimes even up to a week of lagering. So, the optimization I see by moving to conical is just getting it off that trub sooner w/o rerack. I hate reracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what do you guys think? What's more important: avoiding that little bit of oxygen, or getting it off the trub ASAP? Can I get both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, conical(s) I'm looking at is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/fastferment-an-affordable-conical-beer-fermenter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FastFerment&lt;/a&gt;. With a pretty tall collar, I'm thinking I can mount these inside a temp controlled freezer, and follow my same process, but get rid of yeast &amp;amp; trub sooner &amp;amp; more effectively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12045" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T01:46:32.043" Title="Is the air glug in a conical not causing oxidation?" Tags="|temperature-control|trub|oxidation|conical-fermenter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15080" CreationDate="2015-04-03T20:41:03.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, once you remove the trub bulb, there is no need to add another one.  If you don't add another trub bulb and open the valve, how are you getting your &quot;glub&quot;?  The idea is, attach the bulb before you rack in your wort and pitch yeast, transfer the wort and open the valve (that way your hand is on the valve and you can verify that nothing is leaking), pitch yeast, walk away and don't mess with it until the gravity has stabilized.  Once primary is complete, close the valve and remove the trub bulb.  Add your secondary stuff and leave it alone.  If you added fruit to secondary, you could reattach the bulb and open the valve a little until the bulb is full (I would leave the connection a little loose to allow air to escape), then tighten everything and open the  valve to capture your fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;I did some thinking about this over the weekend (you know how it is when something just doesn't sound right) and the conclusion that I came to is that yank the valve open won't hurt a thing.  Here's why: when you allow the air from the collection bulb (it's about a pint) to come out in one big &quot;glug&quot;, the only air that touches your beer is the beer on the outside edges of the spherical bubble(s).  That's not a lot of air and only 21% of it is Oxygen.  It's going to rise to the top of the beer pretty quickly and it's going to go to the top of the layer of CO2 that is on top of your fermented beer even faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR:&#xA;Yank the valve open quickly... it won't hurt a thing.  If it makes you uncomfortable to do that, drink a homebrew first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastEditorUserId="7934" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T14:35:37.190" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T14:35:37.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15071" CreationDate="2015-04-04T08:29:28.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/strong&gt; If the thief is properly sanitized there's little reason that the sample can't be safely returned to the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Longer answer:&lt;/strong&gt; There's not really any reason to be checking the gravity until all visible fermentation has stopped (i.e. the kraeusen has dropped and the airlock isn't making any more noise).  Generally, the idea is to wait for a few days (2-3 at least) after visible fermentation has ceased, and then start checking the gravity.  When the gravity is the same for 3 days in a row, the beer is ready to bottle/keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't worry about emptying the thief against the neck of the carboy.  If possible, I'd tip the carboy a bit so that the beer doesn't have as much of a chance to oxygenate on the way back into the carboy, but since most of the airspace inside the carboy will be filled with CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; I'm not that concerned about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T08:29:28.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15088" CreationDate="2015-04-04T22:30:23.383" Score="2" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing 6 lagers according to the Brulosophy Quick Lager method, where the temperature is raised to 65*F/18.3*C for the remainder of fermentation after attenuation has hit 50%. 2 of them have been at 65*F/18.3*C for 3 weeks, 2 at 65*F/18.3*C for 2 weeks, and 2 at 65*F/18.3*C for 1 week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All 6 of these batches used the same yeast (Wyeast 2206 with 3, 1.6L yeast starters, initially fermented at 50*F/10*C), used the same hops, had the same OG (1.050), and had the same mash temperature of 156*F/68.9*C (Single infusion). The only difference was the grain bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken tons of gravity readings with one of those expensive final gravity hydrometers that is calibrated very well. The first 4 batches appeared to hit their terminal gravity of 1.0175-1.0215 on the 7th to 10th day at 65*F. The last two batches are undergoing their 7th day tomorrow and are also hovering in that range. It appears that the batches with the most Weyerman Munich II malt tend to have higher FGs (the one exception is the 95% Munich/5% Carafa Special II has a figer FG than the 100% Munich).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the highest FGs I've ever had from a 1.050 OG. I've never used Wyeast 2206, but its attenuation rate is 73-77% and my FGs don't reach it. I'm wondering if this high FG is due to me messing up the Lager schedule or higher mash temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit for those who are curious:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch # 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;66% Pilsener &#xA;33% Munich &#xA;(&quot;Final&quot; FG = 1.0165)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch # 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;33% Pilsener&#xA;66% Munich &#xA;(&quot;Final&quot; FG = 1.0200)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch # 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;100% Munich &#xA;(&quot;Probably Final&quot; FG = 1.0210)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch # 4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;95% Munich &#xA;5% Carafaspecial II &#xA;(&quot;Probably Final&quot; FG = 1.0215)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch # 5: Oktoberfest &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;38.46% Pilsener&#xA;30.77% Munich&#xA;23.07% Vienna&#xA;7.69% Caramunich&#xA;(&quot;Current and not final&quot; FG = 1.0200)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch # 6: Vienna&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;29.50% Pilsener&#xA;26.03% Munich&#xA;43.38% Vienna&#xA;1.08% Carafaspecial II&#xA;(&quot;Current and not final&quot; FG = 1.0195)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T02:35:27.950" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T02:35:27.950" Title="ceteris paribus, does mashing at a higher temperature lead to a higher final gravity?" Tags="|mash|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-04T23:14:04.010" Score="4" ViewCount="1511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see recommendations to add anywhere from &quot;1/2 teaspoon&quot; to &quot;1 table spoon&quot; worth of gelatin as a fining agent. I'm surprised to see this, given that brewers on the internet tend to demand that hops, salts, and etc. be weighed on a gram scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how much gelatin in grams is required to clarify a beer? Does it depend on whether or not the beer is to be bottled instead of kegged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T01:54:03.067" Title="How much Gelatin in grams to add post-fermentation?" Tags="|gelatin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15085" CreationDate="2015-04-04T23:20:27.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a higher mash temperature absolutely leads to a higher final gravity. Mash temperatures in the 154-158°F promote the conversion of unfermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T23:20:27.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15085" CreationDate="2015-04-04T23:42:57.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are two things to consider here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mashing temperature: at higher temperatures you will have increasingly less β-amylase activity, even with high diastatic-power malt, and this will favor production of non-fermentable dextrins and hence increase the FG (at 156° you'll have basically no β-amylase activity); and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High proportions of Munich malt: The higher kilning temperatures (up to ~220°F) during malting destroy much of the enzymes and leave the finished malt with far less diastatic power (less able to self-convert starches) than a pale or pilsner malt would have. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though Weyermann explicitly says you can use either Munich I or II for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weyermann.de/usa/produkte.asp?PN=2&amp;amp;idkat=163&amp;amp;umenue=yes&amp;amp;idmenue=269&amp;amp;sprache=10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;up to 100%&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, you really can't expect too much fermentability from these malts, given the tendency for enzyme destruction during malt kilning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could &lt;em&gt;try&lt;/em&gt; mashing lower and/or longer with high %s of Munich, but the reality is that there's a limit for what you can get from them in terms of attenuation limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-04-05T00:34:03.447" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T00:34:03.447" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15148" CreationDate="2015-04-05T00:33:40.900" Score="9" ViewCount="6720" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read multiple times now that &quot;malty&quot;, as a taste, does not mean &quot;sweet&quot;; it is therefor possible to have a dry, malty brew, or a sweet, non malty brew. Is &quot;malty&quot; the same as &quot;body&quot;, or is &quot;body&quot; one component of &quot;sweet&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it that makes a homebrew &quot;sweet&quot;? Is it simply a high final gravity? A high final gravity relative to original gravity? A low BU to OG (or FG) ratio? What about a high mash temperature that results in unfermentable sugars -- does this lend only to an increase in body, or also an increase in sweetness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it that makes a homebrew &quot;malty&quot;? Is it simply the choice of malts? If so, which malts contribute a &quot;malty&quot; flavor, and which contribute a &quot;non-malty&quot; flavor? (Incidentally, what is the word for non-malty?) Is it possible to have a low body but malty brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T17:44:59.937" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T23:46:37.930" Title="What makes a beer malty and sweet?" Tags="|taste|sweetness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2035" CreationDate="2015-04-05T17:11:34.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use just whirlfloc tablets for fining, but I'm also very interested in trying gelatin as it is not consistently clear enough. I was going to try it on my most recent brew but it didn't work out and I went ahead and kegged it without trying the gelatin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, I've read quite a few forum posts from people who say it works well, and very few that were unsatisfied with the results. The bit I read that really convinced me was on &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/01/05/the-gelatin-effect-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brulosphy&lt;/a&gt;. I thought it was well written and it allayed my concerns about flavor and mouthfeel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T17:11:34.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T01:52:17.743" Score="8" ViewCount="8093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone leaves a glass hydrometer in their carboy during primary fermentation so that you don't have to take samples.  I figured it would be an easy way to tell that the SG has leveled off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I tried adding the hydrometer to the carboy and it worked out well. I used my phone to zoom in on the reading.  I used a hose with a stainless steal rod inside to get the hydrometer in without dropping it. It was easy to get out.  I left it in while transferring the beer to a secondary fermentor. When I went to clean it out I filled the carboy with water and it floated up to where I could grab it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12034" LastEditorUserId="12034" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T19:50:19.817" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T20:16:18.657" Title="Can I leave my hydrometer in the carboy to tell when fermentation is complete?" Tags="|fermentation|carboy|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T02:33:37.437" Score="2" ViewCount="2031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerbrew.com/downloads/Recipes/WhaleArrowIPA.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this extract IPA&lt;/a&gt;.  I had 4.6 gal in the fermentor when I measured original gravity at 1.053 (@80 degrees), on the low end of the target range for 5 gallons (target 1.059, or 1.053-1.062).  Is this a reasonable deviation from the recipe, considering it would be even lower if I topped it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like most low gravity readings are due to the top-off water not being mixed.  I did not add any top off water, but I also did not mix the wort after pouring it in.  I poured the ~2.5 gal. of wort through a strainer/funnel over the 2 gal. of water already in the fermentor.   Is it still possible the heavy wort, despite being poured over the water, sunk to the bottom and thus gave me a low reading on the top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I'm not sure if my beer is too strong or too weak.  Is there a way to tell whether I should add the remaining water during bottling?  For example, if my OG is low and my FG is high, maybe it would indicate my OG reading was wrong?  But if my FG is also low, maybe I shouldn't add water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8140" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T03:58:37.400" Title="How low an original gravity is too low?" Tags="|wort|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15092" CreationDate="2015-04-06T03:38:35.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about it too much. The answer to your question lies in your opinion only. If you add more water at bottling, all you will do is dilute it - less flavor and a lower ABV. Once you have your FG reading, calculate your ABV and then decide if you would like it to be lower. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you aren't asking for opinions, but I'll give it anyway: I would not personally add more water to this under any circumstances, especially since your OG is already a little lower than you were expecting. But then again, I like big beers. I say don't worry, everything seems to be going fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm not an expert on the subject, but I think there might be a some danger in adding water at bottling time, since that water will be oxidized. You don't want to do anything at this stage of the process that will introduce oxygen to your beer, as it will increase your risk of contamination and off-flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8339" LastEditorUserId="8339" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T03:58:37.400" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T03:58:37.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15095" CreationDate="2015-04-06T13:40:04.387" Score="7" ViewCount="8448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am used to bottling my beer and do bottle conditioning. However, I just bought a few 5l mini kegs for the next batch which is currently fermenting. From what I have read from different sources, you need less sugar when conditioning in a mini keg than in a bottle (it varies from source to source, but it ranges from 75% to 50%, or even only 33% of the amount of sugar per liter that you would use for bottle conditioning.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem, is that I would like to understand the reason behind this. I wasn't able to find any serious explanation, only things along the line &quot;The amount of head space is different&quot;. I normally fill my bottles so that the liquid raises midway to the bottle neck (only a few cm^3 of air), and the filling instructions for the mini keg says to fill up to about 2.5cm below the rim. This means that the ratio of free space over beer volume is larger in the minikeg than in the bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now this is where I think things are getting counter-intuitive.&#xA;In my understanding of the situation, a given amount of sugar will produce a given number of moles of CO2. Then the amount dissolved in the beer will depend on the pressure that builds up in the dead space above the beer. The pressure in this part, given the perfect gas approximation will be proportional to the number of moles of CO2 that escape from the beer divided by the volume of the dead space (p=nRT/V). Which means that the larger the dead volume is, the larger number of moles you need to get to the same equilibrium pressure, and therefore the same amount of CO2 dissolved in the beer. Consequently, given the larger dead space in the mini keg, I would expect to use MORE sugar per liter for the mini keg compared to bottle conditioning. This line of reasoning is in agreement with this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10595/what-is-the-right-amount-of-priming-sugar-for-a-bottle-with-expandable-head-spac&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;, and the general observation that soft drinks tend to loose their carbonation when you only drink part of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this in in contradiction with the general wisdom that you need about half as much priming sugar for mini keg than for bottles. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/brewery/library/mini112994.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; even specifies, when mentioning filling of the mini keg that &quot;Over filling the keg will result in reduced carbonation levels&quot;. For me this is completely counterintuitive, as less dead space means less moles of CO2 necessary to build up pressure in the dead space to reach equilibrium&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be very happy if someone can give me a sound explanation as to why less priming sugar per volume of liquid is required with a mini keg compared to bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9616" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2019-05-02T09:39:13.307" Title="Why less priming sugar in a mini keg?" Tags="|carbonation|keg|priming|calculations|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15094" CreationDate="2015-04-06T14:53:42.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your general understanding is pretty much spot-on. I think the thing to consider here is that your reasoning assumes that half or a third of the priming sugar is meant to yield &lt;em&gt;the same&lt;/em&gt; amount of carbonation as it would in the bottle. I'd argue this isn't the case. Notice how recommendations like this keg-underpriming 'common wisdom' usually don't go so far as to tell you what the carbonation level is that you're aiming for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the way I see it: pouring a beer at 2.7 volumes out of a bottle is pretty easy to do without foaming too much, but maintaining beer in a keg at 2.7 volumes requires enough pressure (14.5 psig @ 40°F) that unless you have a lot of resistance from the tubing between your keg and your tap (from a long or skinny line), the dispense velocity will be high enough that you can't pour at that carbonation level without foaming over. Obviously with a mini-keg, where you have little or no tubing to provide resistance, this problem is exacerbated to the extreme. Therefore, when kegging, a balance has to be struck to achieve &lt;em&gt;acceptable&lt;/em&gt; carbonation while not going overkill on dispense velocity. It's a problem with a definite solution (a properly balanced draft setup) but I think the common-wisdom solution largely assumes a poorly balanced beginners' draft setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're trying to wrap your head around makes a lot more sense when you realize that no one's saying 1/3 the amount of sugar will yield the same carbonation level (at least not that I've ever seen), just that it will yield a more appropriate level for the typical keg-service setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2019-04-27T16:18:30.283" LastActivityDate="2019-04-27T16:18:30.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15094" CreationDate="2015-04-06T15:43:29.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of debate about if you really do need to use less sugar to prime a keg.  From my point of view, it's an unsettled question.  I'd advise you to experiment and decide for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T15:43:29.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15089" CreationDate="2015-04-06T16:24:44.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sweetness does overlap with maltiness, but sweetness definitely can come from things besides the final gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maltiness can come from high mash temps, and at least in my beers they seem to not be too sweet.  When I mash high, but without a lot of specialty malts, I get an increase in body, and a nice thick head but the beer can still be kind of plain. (But, if you have a lot of amylase in your saliva, you might get more sweetness from this than I do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The source of malty-sweetness seems to be caramelized sugars, from the kilning/roasting of specialty grains or a scorching hot boil. These, to me, can taste quite sweet. I think this is the real source of perceived maltiness, since these sugars seem to survive saccharification &amp;amp; fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OTOH, sweetness can come from higher alcohols, or relatively small amounts of non-fermentables, like lactose in a milk stout for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my favorites yeasts is a Saison that always ferments beyond 1.010, even when the OG if above 1.060. These beers are always sweet, whether the ABV is 5% or 8%. I'm not sure what sugars might be left behind, but I don't think it's alcohol sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I suppose that bitterness from hops will offset sweetness, but maybe somebody that brews bitter beers can comment on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T16:24:44.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1592" CreationDate="2015-04-06T20:14:00.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are measuring the specific gravity, you want to know the weight of a specific volume of liquid.&#xA;This being said, the &lt;strong&gt;refractometer&lt;/strong&gt; is not strictly speaking a tool to measure the specific gravity. It does measure the refractive index of the liquid. Assuming that you deal with water plus sugar, you can calculate the quantity of sugar from the refractive index, and from this, the specific gravity, so it is really an indirect measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To directly measure the density of a liquid, you can put a precise amount of liquid in a graduated cylinder and weight it to directly get the density of the liquid. However, this is not very convenient as it is often difficult to measure the volume precisely because of the meniscus on the side of the tube. In addition, you need a precise graduated cylinder, a precision scale and maybe a pipette, which is not very convenient. A way to do so precisely is with a &lt;strong&gt;pycnometer&lt;/strong&gt; what you call a &quot;bottle to measure specific gravity&quot;. You still need a precision scale though&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Archimedes principle is in the end the most convenient way to measure gravity, as it can be done with a single, inexpensive tool, the &lt;strong&gt;hydrometer&lt;/strong&gt;. So you mentioned the main tools already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding units, tools that measure density or specific gravity will either give results in g/cm^3 or as a uniteless ratio of the density of the liquid over some reference liquid (such as water). One could argue that hydrometer give a result in °P, but this is not exactly true. Hydrometer directly measure the density of the liquid, but because they are mostly used in brewing or wine making, you find them with a °P scale, so you don't have to make the conversion (although we often do it backwards to go back to specific gravity from the °P result).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now they are other methods to measure the density of fluid, but they are often hardly available to brewers. You can use ultrasonic waves to infer the density (as speed of sound in a material depends on this parameter). You can also do it by measuring the pressure inside a column of liquid as a function of depth, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9616" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T20:14:00.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9248" CreationDate="2015-04-06T20:26:29.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a sanitized nylon bag, like the boil in bags.  I bought it to replace the bag I use for mashing and filtering through my zapzap.  It was too narrow for my kettle, so I re-purposed it as a hop filter after boiling.  I sanitize by immersing it in boiling/boiled water for about ten minutes.  I use my boiling spoon to help push out the retained liquids.  I use buckets so the slightly smaller boil bag is perfect size.  I like milancurcic's carboy solution, the narrow carboy neck acts as the system to push out the hops.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12051" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T20:26:29.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2876" CreationDate="2015-04-07T05:47:23.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think so. FG by itself doesn't tell much about sweeterness. FG info combined to mash temperatures info on the other hand can give us much clearer clue about &quot;sweeteness level&quot;, but still an oriented guess. Ph, mash thickness, water and mash temperature also influence it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In general, higher mash temperatures will produce dextrinous (heavy-bodied beer) wort in a very short, active periods, while lower temperatures produce more preventable worst over a long period. John Palmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T05:47:23.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15812" CreationDate="2015-04-07T14:05:16.263" Score="2" ViewCount="839" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a keg, and I've got a couple questions about keeping the lines clean. Specifically when the keg isn't finished, as the lines are simple enough to clean along with the keg when it's empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I do not have a kegerator, and am using a simple picnic tap. I've been very busy and unable to drink my beer on a regular basis, so my keg gets tapped, we pour a few pints then everything gets packed up for another week or so. My question is about cleaning the beverage line and fitting. How often should I be cleaning it? Are there any tips for cleaning the fitting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one way valve on the fitting makes it difficult to clean, so I end up taking the line apart and washing the pieces separately. This is problematic because the fitting is sharply barbed and often requires me to cut away the tubing to take it apart. Is there anything I can do to make this easier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T18:01:11.283" Title="Keeping the keg lines and fittings clean" Tags="|sanitation|keg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15102" CreationDate="2015-04-07T14:52:52.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, as long as you still have beer in the keg and you're pushing it out with CO2, you should be fine.  This assumes that you're keeping your keg cool (beer is a food product as should be treated as one).  Here's how I clean mind and I've never had an issue:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When the keg is empty, first I cry a little for my lost friend.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;First, I rinse the keg with hot water,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;then, I clean the keg with Oxyclean or BPW and really hot water.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'll hook the keg up to my beer line and run about a quart (or a liter if you're not in the US) into a pitcher.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Dump the keg and rinse it with hot water.  With new hot water in the keg, get a couple of quarts through the beer lines.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sanitize with StarSan and water, the run that through the beer lines.&#xA;Add beer and force carbonate.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Run a pint glass (or less -- no sense in wasting perfectly good beer) of liquid through the beer lines.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pull a pint into a clean glass and drink it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T14:52:52.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15086" CreationDate="2015-04-07T16:42:27.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/01/05/the-gelatin-effect-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, the guy (Marshall Schott for Brulosophy) has documented pretty well his experiments related to gelatin usage for clarification and decrease of chill haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Step 2: Make gelatin solution. I followed my friend Brad’s method of combining 1/2 tsp Knox Unflavored Gelatin with 1/4 cup cool water then microwaving it in short (7 second) bursts until it reached 145-150°F, stirring with the end of a thermometer between each burst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastEditorUserId="16361" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T01:54:03.067" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T01:54:03.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15105" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-07T22:15:33.313" Score="1" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B3nIWsUoDjs2RVlsZ3FnaWdYRjQ/edit?usp=docslist_api&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B3nIWsUoDjs2RVlsZ3FnaWdYRjQ/edit?usp=docslist_api&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am brewing a double IPA. The beer is in the secondary and has been there for  10 days. I recorded 7.8% alc when I transferred it. I just noticed this green sludge in the top forming. I am dry hoping with an ounce of pellets in cheese cloth. There doesn't seem to be hair growing in the sludge. It's this hopsludge or mold? Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture I'm including in the link makes it look brown but it looks more green in person. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12058" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T03:34:51.380" Title="green sludge floating" Tags="|dry-hop|mold|americanipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15066" CreationDate="2015-04-07T22:43:29.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made two batches that were almost certainly infected/affected by wild yeast (I was experimenting with culturing my own yeast from the dregs of Odell's St. Lupulin) and ended up with a distinct phenolic taste. The maddening thing was that I could taste what the beer was supposed to be right along side the off flavor ... and they were both really good beers, but that off flavor was still there. I had a lot of trouble trying to drink them, but I didn't have the heart to pour it all down the drain ... so my wife tried squeezing a lime wedge into one and pronounced it drinkable, &quot;like a Dos Equis or Pacifico or something&quot; she said. The phenolic flavor was still there when I tasted it, but it was significantly less off-putting. I still wasn't a fan, but my wife ended up polishing off both batches in this manner over the next couple months. Now those batches are gone, and I'm much more careful about culturing my own yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3160" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T22:43:29.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15108" CreationDate="2015-04-07T23:37:21.677" Score="1" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I brewed a straight forward English style IPA with the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;O.G. 1.060&#xA;F.G. 1.015 (estimated from Beersmith)&#xA;Current F.G. 1.020&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10g Gypsum&#xA;11 lbs Maris Otter&#xA;1.5 lbs Crystal 30&#xA;1 oz Columbus @ 60 min&#xA;1 oz East Kent Golding @ 30 min&#xA;1 oz Fuggles @ 10 min&#xA;2 oz Crystal Dryhop (I haven't added this yet)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 Package of Burton Ale Yeast (The kind in the vial)&#xA;60 min Mash @ 153-154 (Beersmith Recommended 152)&#xA;Batch Sparge&#xA;60 min Boil&#xA;5.5 Gal into primary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't use a starter, I just pitched the yeast straight out of the vial. The fermentation didn't start for about 48 hours. Then I found the plug and blowoff tube had completely blown off and there was a large amount of beer sludge caked all over the fermenter and puddled all over the floor. I cleaned up and replaced the blowoff with an airlock. Once it stopped bubbling I measured the gravity over the course of the next few days and it settled on 1.020, a full 5 points high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Mash temperature started a touch high at around 155-156, then i threw in some cool water to drop it to 153. Did I just mash it too high and create a heavy body? Should I be concerned with a stalled fermentation? Or should I just go ahead and transfer to secondary for some dry hopping. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6220" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T00:02:30.047" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T16:43:45.853" Title="Stalled Fermentation? Or too much body from high temp mash?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15107" CreationDate="2015-04-08T00:05:02.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would give it another week, just to make sure the yeast is done, but I'm going to guess it won't drop down much lower, and will attribute that to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; high mash temp;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10%+ Crystal malt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low initial yeast health from pitching just a vial instead of a starter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T00:05:02.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7973" CreationDate="2015-04-08T01:13:52.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A high gravity beer (high ABV) can take more than a month to carbonate at 70 degrees and if you let it get too cold it may never get to where you want it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12059" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T01:13:52.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6566" CreationDate="2015-04-08T01:33:42.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make citrus wine by first making a simple white wine, then adding a gallon of fresh squeezed oj on top with a pound of sugar. It usually takes another 10 days or so. Rack it for a couple of weeks and bottle that deliciousness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12060" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T01:33:42.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15105" CreationDate="2015-04-08T03:34:51.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely that your pellets had some very finely chopped hops in them. They have escaped the bag and triggered a bit of bubble formation in the beer, bringing them to the top of the beer. Hopefully they'll stick to the fermenter when you rack or bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T03:34:51.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15122" CreationDate="2015-04-08T09:29:50.477" Score="4" ViewCount="1888" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to make my first brew (from an extract kit), it's a 25litre batch (6.5us gal). Following John Palmer's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;advice&lt;/a&gt; I will be doing a partial boil. But the biggest pot I have available is 6litres (8qt). Can I do the boil in this pot, and top-up or should I forget the boil and just follow the kit instructions (add ingredients to 25l of hot water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: (after reading this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7176/what-is-the-purpose-of-boiling-wort?rq=1&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt;) if using pre-hopped extract, do I need to boil at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6169" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T22:30:58.000" Title="Boil options with a small pot" Tags="|boil|kits|boil-kettle|partial-boil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15112" CreationDate="2015-04-08T12:46:54.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That seems low, but it's largely dependent on what's in the kit. It is probably an extract kit. If it's not completely extract and includes some specialty grains you may be in trouble. Depending on weight these will require some steeping and require about 1.25 quarts of water per pound of grains, and don't forget to leave room for the grains in the pot as well. So if this is a partial mash kit, you may be trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's completely extract, then I doubt there's any reason that it won't work. At some point you'll have to deal with saturation if you're trying to mix in large amounts of extract into a small amount of water, but I don't think you're approaching that. You might find dry extract a pain in the neck to work with, but I find it annoying in almost all circumstances. You will get better results from having a large pot, but it should be fine to try this first. Don't forget to leave room for boiling in the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a prehopped extract, I guess you don't need to boil. I'd still want to boil everything just for its sanitizing effect. Also at least heat up the water as it will be easier to mix when it's hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-11-20T12:22:45.270" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T12:22:45.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15107" CreationDate="2015-04-08T16:43:45.853" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's already fermented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is ages and and from memory so I don't Remember the details of SG or anything like that. I once brewed a batch of 80 penny while living in Florida. Pitched the yeast, the next day I was looking for signs of kickoff, but it looked dead. Pitched in more yeast, another day...nothing, in fact you could still see it floating on top where I pitched it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turned out it was simply just warm enough for the wurt to ferment completely over a single night. It turned out pretty tasty too as I remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T16:43:45.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15094" CreationDate="2015-04-08T16:49:19.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a matter of volume. I don't know the PSI of a typically charged beer bottle, but less just talk about the math, without doing any math. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 psi in a beer bottle in much less pressure than 5 PSI in a keg. The PSI is the same, but there are a lot more square inches in a keg than in a bottle. Cubic inches really, but the measurement is how much force it pushes against a square inch. Anyway, the amount of pressurized gas increases cubically, and so you don't want nor need the same PSI (therefore need less sugar) to charge a larger volume of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T16:49:19.960" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15091" CreationDate="2015-04-08T22:26:07.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the benefit you'd gain from leaving your hydro in there (maybe saving some volume as you won't take samples) I think it wouldn't really be worth your time as I imagine it would be pretty difficult to read without having to clean it off. Also having to open up your fermentor each time to take a reading exposes the wort to possible infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually only take 3-4 samples max so the volume loss is pretty negligible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8372" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T22:26:07.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15128" CreationDate="2015-04-09T00:27:06.493" Score="3" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's known that reuse yeast from early stages is better. But during the fermentation the reused yeast multiplies itself, producing newer cells. Said that, I'd like to know if it's better to use yeast from the primary fermenter of the first brew or use yeast from the primary fermenter of subsequently brews. For example, suppose I use some pack of yeast to make a beer and then harvest the used yeast (I will call it by 1-yeast) from the primary fermenter and put it in the fridge. After some time, I use the 1-yeast to make another beer and, again, harvest the used yeast (named 2-yeast) from the primary fermenter. Then I use the 2-yeast for another brew and so on. After n brews, which yeast is healthier: the n-yeast or the 1-yeast? Obviously, the 1-yeast is stored for longer time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11907" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T15:51:28.560" Title="Which is better: old yeast from the primary fermentation or reused yeast from primary fermentation?" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4425" CreationDate="2015-04-09T04:00:24.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;it's interesting to me to see people saying that cascade is used commonly as a bittering hop.  I was going to make a batch of Amber ale which uses chinook as the bittering hop, but realized it didn't have any on hand (d'oh!).  I had some cascade laying around and thought to myself, 'can I use this for bittering instead of aroma?'  did a little digging on ye olde internet and discovered the same thing that people are saying here which is that you can use any hop variety for any purpose, it's just that some are better suited for certain purposes.  I found a recipe which called for 2oz of cascade for bittering (didn't find many recipes with cascade though as I was trying to find a recipe for an amber ale), which i thought was excessive.  I wasn't really sure what I would get as a result, but I used .75 oz of cascade and then .75 oz willamette at 15 min and 1 oz willamette at flameout.  It's still in the carboy, but based on what I tasted in the wort, it has much more of an american style IPA flavor than the recipe I'm using for my Amber; however, but it plays really nicely against the caramel and chocolate flavors that I have from the malt.  I'm still pretty new to homebrewing, and it's great to see just how much potential there is for interesting, inventive brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't compare amarillo to cascade, as I have never used this hop variety, but I have to say I am impressed with how cascade performs as a bittering hop.  be aware though, you will still have a good deal of the citrus notes coming through in your brew.  maybe this is less so in a 90 minute boil?  perhaps someone with more brewing experience can confirm this for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12063" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T04:00:24.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15117" CreationDate="2015-04-09T05:28:22.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The honest answer is: There's no black and white answer to this.  Reason being that yeast is a living micro-organism, making it very difficult (especially on the homebrewer's scale/budget) to measure these sorts of things.  Oh, and also every yeast is different in so many ways, one of which being alcohol tolerance and it's effects on yeast health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've personally reused yeast over several batches.  My yeast &amp;amp; bugs harvested from a bottled sour are now on their 9th generation and they are all within 3% apparent attenuation.  For all of those, either I split a 5 gallon's worth of slurry into two 5 gallon carboys of wort, or I built up a starter, and they all seem to be doing well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to choose between reusing yeast from a recent batch or pitching old yeast from the aged first generation, I'm no doubt going with the most recent re-pitch, with an optional starter depending on how fresh it is.  If I have to re-pitch from the first generation, depending on how old, I'll either build up a small (2 liters) or a large (1 gallon+) starter before pitching the yeast, if I do at all (6+ months = start over).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you want a good read on someone who performed a blind taste test between two batches of either fresh yeast vs re-pitched old yeast, &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/03/02/sloppy-slurry-vs-clean-starter-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;check out this experiment&lt;/a&gt;.  TL;DR: Out of 13 people tested, only 5 people were able to tell a difference in the beer that used the slurry, 8 could not.  He used a triangle test with three samples to try, two of the three samples were beers from a fresh pitch of yeast, one was from a re-pitch.  5 could pick out the one, the other 8 could not.  Statistically that isn't enough to say that there's a significant, noticeable difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T23:36:28.100" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T23:36:28.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12647" CreationDate="2015-04-09T11:56:40.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since (most) smokers don't actually burn the &quot;smoking fuel&quot; directly, you should find that a lot of smoke is generated, you should also find that since the spent grain is fairly damp, the amount of smoke you obtain is larger than that from the normal smoke chips when soaked in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most smokers that I've seen use a propane burner to heat a smoke box that contains damp smoking chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a larger surface area of the grains that can produce smoke, so there you may find that the amount of grain required to smoke could be less slightly, but since you'll most likely have several lbs of it before it's soaked, you shouldn't have much of an issue with using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also comments around various forums that indicate that people use smokers to dry out their grain for using them in other recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you try with something cheap and fairly simple (say, plain chicken wings) to begin with, and see if it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T11:56:40.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15091" CreationDate="2015-04-09T19:15:22.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue in doing that is that krausen will get stuck to &lt;strong&gt;both your hydrometer and your carboy&lt;/strong&gt; walls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you wait for the krausen to die off before dumping your hydrometer in, you will still have a bit of a hard time reading it through the krausened carboy walls...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But hey, go ahead and try! That is the essence of homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T19:15:22.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15112" CreationDate="2015-04-09T19:20:51.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The boil is important for achieving certain beneficial changes in the chemistry of the wort that include the dropping out of haze creating proteins. So don’t forego the boil, even if it’s only a 6-liter partial boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue with boiling a small quantity of wort is that you'll get caramelization a lot sooner than if you were to boil the extract in a full 25 liter batch. Caramelization may make the beer a lot darker than its style requires if you are making anything lighter than a bock, and it will also give the beer a kind of burnt flavour. If you are making a dark beer anyway, then it doesn’t matter that much, but anything lighter than a bock will be noticeably darker and taste a bit scorched. But it will still be drinkable; just not “consistent” with the style you might be shooting for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, I would boil 6 liters of wort for no longer than 45 minutes. A full batch, in comparison, would be boiled for approximately 90 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember also that you will get evaporation and if you were to boil 6 liters for 90 minutes, you would lose over 1/2 of your wort! This is why you would actually start a full batch with around 30 liters of wort. After 90 minutes, this would give you 25 liters remaining, and all that extra water will have prevented significant caramelization from taking place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure that the water that you are going to pour the 6-liter batch of boiled wort into is pristine, as boiling also acts to sanitize the wort and drive off any chlorine (such as from tap water). I would recommend getting a 15-liter jug of “spring water” to mix with your small quantity of wort. These are the jugs meant for office drinking fountains and will contain no chlorine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, definitely do a boil, even if only a 6-liter partial one, but for no longer than 45 minutes, and use a mixing water that is chlorine-free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T19:20:51.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13466" CreationDate="2015-04-09T19:45:06.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll have no issues with an open fermentation in terms of contamination from the open air if there is still a layer of CO2 at the interface of the liquid and the air, which will be the case during active fermentation. I'm assuming that your container is covered with something, either plastic or a lid and ferm. lock. If you are completely open to the air (why?) then chances are very high that you will have a disaster due to air-borne bacteria regardless of fermentation activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is probably a grace period of a few days after the end of fermentation when you can bottle directly without much danger of bacteria getting into the beer (assuming, again, that you have a cover of some kind over your container). Keep your bucket away from forced-air heating vents and/or drafty areas in the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the other issue will be avoiding getting excessive haze and sediment into your bottles (ie: trub, including yeast and hop bits), unless you use a fining agent to accelerate the clearing process, which can otherwise take over a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to avoid getting some of the worst gunk into your bottles is to put a mesh filter on the end of your siphoning tube, the end that goes into the bucket. This will prevent the largest bits of sediment from getting into your bottles, but you will still have a lot of haze particles in your bottles if the primary has not been given time to settle out; especially in the last 6 or 7 bottles as you try to siphon off the last of your green beer from the bottom of your primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option to extend the air-free time while fermentation subsides and the clearing process takes place, is to use a CO2 injector to apply a layer of CO2 to the surface of the beer once in a while, until the primariy is relatively clear (but, again, usually not before 1 week after fermentation has ended). You can get handheld injectors that take 12g or 16g CO2 cylinders. Just make sure the CO2 in the cylinders is food-grade (&quot;100% CO2 only&quot;), and is NOT meant for BB-guns; those will contain oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastEditorUserId="8421" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T17:04:41.847" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T17:04:41.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15129" CreationDate="2015-04-09T19:45:23.750" Score="1" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm in a process of planning for the next year competitions. In fact, I'm little bit behind since I'm planning to do big brews (few meads and beers). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already had a similar thread about packaging entries using different types of corks, even though I've got my answer I've got more questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, most of the competitions require 12oz bottles with crown cap. There are few exceptions, like Mazer Cup (mead competition). For them you should enter the product in appropriate package (like sparkling mead or 2-3 year old mead should be packaged in appropriate to style bottles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is... How should I prevent my homebrew (beer/mead/cider) from oxidation over time in regular 12oz bottles with crown cork if waxing is not authorized? Is there some sort of shrink-sleeve that I could get specifically for beer bottles (and remove it before sending to competitions)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T12:35:04.930" Title="Aging beer/cider/mead in beer bottles for competition" Tags="|aging|packaging|competition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15091" CreationDate="2015-04-09T21:12:38.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried several variations, including putting the hydrometer into the fermenting vessel and also a mini fermentation in a sample tube kept alongside the fermenting vessel. The former is hard to read; the latter may not ferment at the same rate as the main brew. In both cases, you get sediment settling on the hydrometer potentially weighing it down and giving a false reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best solution so far is to wait until the krausen starts to break up and draw a sample. That goes into a sanitised sample tube with the hydrometer and gives me a first reading. I then cover the tube and check the next day. Given my fermenting conditions, this seems to give an accurate reading (testing the main wort again once I'm ready to commit to bottling if I want to double check).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YMMV - to be honest, my observations over the four or so years I've been experimenting with homebrewing suggest that fermentation has almost always stopped by this point so the reading is more to put a number on where the gravity has fallen to than to check that it is safe to bottle. However, that is based on the yeasts, temperature control and other factors I use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wulf&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6856" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T21:12:38.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15091" CreationDate="2015-04-09T22:42:19.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dropped mine into the glass carboy and left it in (wasn't an easy way to get it out). It was a bit difficult to read but I managed. Removed it carefully after bottling. No disasters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12067" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T22:42:19.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15086" CreationDate="2015-04-10T01:03:38.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not that critical as long as you stay between 1/2-to-1 tsp, whatever that weighs. Use a teaspoon measurer that's designed for measuring cooking ingredients (not an actual &quot;teaspoon&quot;). Such a teaspoon of salt will weigh 5g, but gelatin is lighter and so you will probably be in the 3-4g range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for bottling vs. kegging, it doesn't matter, since in either case the gelatin will take the haze particles with it down to the bottom of the carboy where they will stay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Stir 1 tsp of Knox brand unflavored gelatin in 2/3 cup of distilled water. Most grocery stores will carry Knox gelatin. The gelatin sold at homebrew shops is no better and probably identical but a lot more expensive. Knox works perfectly (but it must be &lt;em&gt;unflavored&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Microwave the gelatin mixture in 15-second increments to get up to 160F, stirring between increments. Be careful not to exceed 170F or you will have Jello instead. At 160F the gelatin will be sufficiently sanitized for addition to your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Pour the gelatin mixture into your carboy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Keep the carboy in the fridge until the beer is clear (approx. 2-3 days). The gelatin will not clear well if the carboy has not been kept cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastEditorUserId="8421" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T01:10:38.677" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T01:10:38.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15117" CreationDate="2015-04-10T07:31:05.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory you could reuse yeast forever, that's how breweries were supposed work before the first pure yeast strains were isolated by Carlsberg. But...that probably only works in locations favorable to the yeast (especially certain areas of Belgium), and with continuous brewing happening to keep the yeast in log-phase growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, most of this beer had other organisms in it, such as Brettanomyces and probably other stuff. Modern breweries are also less clean than a laboratory. Since they want to make a consistent product, they buy yeast from a lab and use it for 8 - 10 brews, and then replace it before yeast health and contamination mess things up. Also, high alcohol beers stress the yeast, so they'll usually dump the yeast after making something strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stressed yeast also tends to mutate, and accumulate 'petite' mutations (various mitochondial defects, I think). Since they grow slower in the presence of oxygen than non-mutants, they should be out-competed a starter culture conditions. But if the yeast goes directly from brew to brew they might accumulate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, after several generations of brewing, if you provide oxygen periodically and a chance for log-growth, you'll have healthy yeast that is probably happier than the stuff that's been in the fridge for a few months... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it will probably also have some healthy bacteria or wild yeast in it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T15:51:28.560" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T15:51:28.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15124" CreationDate="2015-04-10T12:35:04.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For long term storage with crown corks (aka: caps), you want to keep the bottle upright, this prevents the content from damaging the seal on the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing long term storage with corks, you want the bottle to be left on its side, or a slight angle, ensuring that the cork is kept moistened by the contents, this prevents the cork drying out and hence prevents oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waxing doesn't add much except for style points providing that the cap is on correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this answer for a more indepth look at long term storage: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/814/how-to-store-beer&quot;&gt;How to store beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T12:35:04.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15131" CreationDate="2015-04-10T13:34:22.833" Score="2" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using lead-free brass barb fittings until my budget gives me the thumbs-up on stainless. The only relevant information I could find is &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/issues/item/1144-metallurgy-for-homebrewers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this BYO metallurgy article&lt;/a&gt;, which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The reason that brass fittings are not commonly used in commercial breweries is that the clean-in-place (CIP) systems and chemicals that are commonly used with stainless steel are too corrosive to copper and brass. As homebrewers, we don’t have to use such strong chemicals, nor are our parts in service 24/7, so corrosion is greatly reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a once-a-week brewer, about how frequently can I use CIP chemicals such as PBW in this system before corrosion becomes a concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3876" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T14:03:10.313" Title="How frequently can lead-free brass be cleaned with CIP chemicals (e.g. PBW) before it begins to corrode?" Tags="|starsan|pbw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15130" CreationDate="2015-04-10T14:03:10.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/patents/US5789361&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;data submitted with the patent&lt;/a&gt;, PBW corrodes brass at a rate of 11 ppm over a 20 minute cycle (see example four, towards the bottom). I'm not exactly sure how this is measured, but let's say that, hypothetically, you lose about 1 ppm of your brass every two minutes of contact time. Assuming this, to fully corrode your brass fitting to oblivion would take ~two million minutes in PBW. Let's say for argument's sake that your fitting is really compromised at ~1% corrosion. Even that would take ~20,000 minutes of contact time. There are obviously a lot of other factors here that aren't being taken into account, but it gives you a general idea of how little corrosion you're likely to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth finding an old junk piece of brass and submerging it in a strong PBW solution and leaving it for a few weeks, just to see what happens. Theoretically it should last quite a while, but I'd rather decide that from empirical evidence than from conjecture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T14:03:10.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15145" CreationDate="2015-04-11T05:00:50.343" Score="2" ViewCount="3611" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr - Can wine bottles explode?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that when making wine, if fermentation isn't finished, it moght result in a sparkling wine. In the worst case, the cork might get pushed out, due to extra carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bottled a mead back in January, and opening it now, it's carbonated. I did not expect that. Past meads didn't do this. This one was aged in a carboy for 5 months, fermented in primary for 1.5 months. Yet it's still fermenting, thus carbonating. Should I be worried about wine-bottle-bombs? Or should I just watch the corks, to see if they are pushing out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottles are being stored on their side, so the corks are kept wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any more info is needed for an answer, let know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T15:05:55.917" Title="Are Wine Bottle Bombs Possible?" Tags="|wine|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15138" CreationDate="2015-04-11T05:17:33.147" Score="0" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason to re-rack and wait another week after dry hopping before bottling? The only reason I can think of is for settling of residual dry hopped particulates. But if you don't syphon those out, is there any reason to wait?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="1553" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T00:52:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T00:52:18.480" Title="Is there any reason to re-rack and wait another week after dry hopping before bottling?" Tags="|bottling|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15140" CreationDate="2015-04-11T15:54:49.737" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;We brewed an imperial wit that wound up 1.070 OG. I used a 1.5L starter with Wyeast 3944, but I likely still underpitched. After a week fermenting at 68F/20C, gravity is still 1.035 and it's pretty sweet. Should I re-pitch with the same yeast to get it to finish? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T20:49:16.753" Title="How do we get this Imperial Wit to finish?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-11T16:01:44.927" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;We brewed a Dark Lager using Wyeast 2007. It fermented for two weeks and has been lagering for 3. When we bottle, we think  we'll need to repitch to ensure the bottles carbonate. Thoughts on what yeast to use? &#xA;OG 1.06/FG 1.008&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T16:53:55.653" Title="What yeast for carbonating a lager?" Tags="|yeast|carbonation|lager|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15136" CreationDate="2015-04-11T16:53:55.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience, you'll have more than enough yeast to carb.  I've lagered beer for 2-3 months and still had plenty.  If you really feel that you need to add yeast, any neutral yeast will be fine.  I tend to use US05 becasue it's inexpensive, easy and reliable.  You use so little that it has no effect on flavor, so you don't need a lager yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T16:53:55.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15133" CreationDate="2015-04-12T00:21:33.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, in fact the rewards almost certainly don't outweigh the risk of oxygen pickup (or contamination) from the rack. This is especially the case if you're not going to be performing a true secondary fermentation (i.e. bottle- or keg-conditioning). Even if you are, best to rack straight into the bottle or keg so that any ill effects of oxygen pickup will be mitigated by immediate yeast action. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about hop particles (or anything, really), just leave it where it is for another week. I can think of almost no case where it's better to rack &lt;em&gt;again&lt;/em&gt; than it is to just leave the beer where it is a bit longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T00:21:33.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-12T11:59:52.207" Score="2" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this a viable method?:&#xA;In theory you can calculate an &lt;strong&gt;estimated&lt;/strong&gt; ABV by using the formula 17*X%*YL.&#xA;This means that 17 gr sugar produces 1% alc. in 1 liter mash.&#xA;So if you know at what alc.% your yeast gives in and how many liters mash you make you can derive how much sugar you should add to reach there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To know for sure when all sugar is consumed by the yeast, using a hydrometer and the formula that 2,7 gram sugar is 1° Oechsle in 1 liter mash, you would be able to know when all sugar is gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you keep track of consumed sugar on the hydrometer scale, and when it finishes bubbling as predicted - would you be able to &lt;strong&gt;verify&lt;/strong&gt; the ABV with a refractomer measuring plain % alcohol??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12074" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-09-29T14:32:16.180" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T15:55:57.217" Title="Estimating the ABV in finshed product" Tags="|fermentation|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15134" CreationDate="2015-04-12T15:15:21.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try giving the fermenter a good shake to stir up the yeast and restart the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get my barely wines to ferment completely I need to shake the fermenter a couple of times. I wait until the fermentation has slowed right down and then shake the fermenter to stir up the yeast and trub in the bottom. This helps restart the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this method I can get a barley wine with a 1.100+ OG down to around 1.030 in around two weeks, without the need to re-pitch yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12076" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-04-12T23:25:03.320" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T23:25:03.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-12T20:48:34.780" Score="3" ViewCount="885" Body="&lt;p&gt;does the fermenting process always produce enough gas to bubble the airlock?&#xA;this batch has not bubbled (over 24 hrs)and the last batch I brewed did not bubble much at all but turned out alright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12077" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T21:31:18.220" Title="does the fermenting process always produce enough gas to bubble the airlock?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15141" CreationDate="2015-04-12T21:31:18.220" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, fermentation will produce orders of magnitude more CO₂ than it takes to bubble the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But usually when people are not seeing bubbles, it's because there is some other, easier, way for the CO₂ to escape. Either an improperly-sealed bucket lid or an improperly-set bung in a carboy neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about seeing airlock activity, except as it might mean you don't have a good fermenter seal. For evaluating fermentation, focus on the change in gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T21:31:18.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15132" CreationDate="2015-04-13T02:43:11.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past I've only gotten bombs when I had put too much sugar into the bottle when conditioning, and it has always happened within a week or 2. I think also with wine bottles being a thick as they are they are a bit tougher. If you haven't added extra sugar for bottle carbonation then there must've been some residual left in there when you bottled the mead, in which case there wouldn't be enough to cause an explosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I'd say it would've happened by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8372" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T02:43:11.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15150" CreationDate="2015-04-13T05:45:29.387" Score="2" ViewCount="2072" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thebeerbug.com/gettingstarted/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerBug&lt;/a&gt;TM is a cloud connected digital hydrometer&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have a RaspberryPi that records the temperature of wort and stabilizes wort temperatures via a relay and a Fermwrap. The pain is that I have to take gravity readings, update my database, and manually turn up/down the heat based on the gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've put several hours into researching how to replicate this but have come up with nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only hint the company gives is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The BeerBugTM's torpedo hangs down into your fermenting fluid and acts as a traditional hydrometer does. In short, this is a subject of the Archimedes principle - the force that is exerted on a body immersed in a fluid, is equal to the weight of the fluid that the body displaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T03:15:28.747" Title="Beer Bug - How does this work and how can I replicate it?" Tags="|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15132" CreationDate="2015-04-13T14:59:52.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr - Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is definitely possible for wine bottles to break or explode, but I've seen many more stories of homebrewers having the corks pop out. I have, however, personally witnessed a commercial &quot;organic,&quot; &quot;no sulfites added&quot; wine blow out the bottom of its bottle sitting on the shelf in a grocery store. Most likely, this depends on how secure the cork (or other closure) is in the first place (PVC shrink wrap/foil or bare, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do a quick search on a forum like GotMead? or HomeBrewTalk for &quot;wine bottle bombs,&quot; you can find several similar anecdotes. In fact, a recently posted mead-related incident can be seen here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/a-series-of-unfortunate-brewing-accidents.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A Series of Unfortunate Brewing Accidents&lt;/a&gt;. In that article, the homebrewer in question had a few unstabilized bottles of mead start refermenting after the temperature increased by a few degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, &lt;strong&gt;if you plan on making carbonated wine, mead, or cider, make sure that it is in a container built to hold pressure&lt;/strong&gt; (champagne bottles, beer bottles, kegs) &lt;strong&gt;with a closer that is equally secure&lt;/strong&gt; (crown caps, champagne corks with cages). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; plan on making carbonated wine, mead, or cider, either stabilize or make sure the fermentation is complete before bottling&lt;/strong&gt; (no residual sugar, stable gravity readings with the ABV outside of the yeast's alcohol tolerance, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, &lt;strong&gt;if there is residual sugar when you bottle and the yeast is still within (or even close to) its tolerance, fermentation can always start back up, even if it is months later.&lt;/strong&gt; When in doubt, stabilizing with potassium metabisulfite and potassium sorbate should prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastEditorUserId="8203" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T15:05:55.917" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T15:05:55.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15144" CreationDate="2015-04-13T20:16:50.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand what you're trying to accomplish, you want a sensor that measures liquid density.  Maybe something like this could be used:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pvl.co.uk/hydrostatic-level-sensors.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pvl.co.uk/hydrostatic-level-sensors.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T20:16:50.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15134" CreationDate="2015-04-13T20:49:16.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you're already going with a Belgian strain it might be best to re-pitch something like The Yeast Bay's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theyeastbay.com/brewers-yeast-products/dry-belgian-ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dry Belgian Ale&lt;/a&gt;, and in the meantime give the fermentor a swirl. Assuming you had a bit of wheat/oats in the recipe it should hopefully not dry out &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12078" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T20:49:16.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15089" CreationDate="2015-04-13T23:46:37.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Re: malty&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, &lt;em&gt;malty&lt;/em&gt; is one of those kind of 'irreducible' qualities, i.e. it's hard to describe exactly what else it tastes like besides malt, in the same way that it's hard to say exactly what 'grape-y' tastes like, aside from 'like grapes'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very large part of &lt;em&gt;maltiness&lt;/em&gt; as a distinct flavor is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melanoidin&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;melanoidins&lt;/a&gt;, the product of Maillard reactions between sugars and amino acids during malting. Because this reaction is driven by heat there's a good correlation between the color of the malt and the intensity of the malty flavor (at least until you move into the dark crystal/chocolate/roasted malt range). Well-modified malts offer higher levels of sugars and amino acids before kilning, and therefore tend to be maltier. Vienna, Munich, and medium crystal malts are good examples of higher melanoidin malts, although all lighter malts also get their malty flavor almost entirely from melanoidins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caramelization&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Caramelization&lt;/a&gt; is another factor, though it is virtually non-existent in many malts. Sugars &lt;em&gt;except&lt;/em&gt; fructose caramelize only above 320°F (fructose, above 230°F). As an example, dark Munich malt doesn't usually get above 220°F during kilning so it and any lighter malt should contain no measurable caramelized sugars. It becomes a factor in darker malts like Brown malt, darker crystal malts and chocolate and roasted malts, where kilning temperatures reach well beyond the point of caramelization. Maillard reactions can continue at this temperature too (though it's often too dry), so the balance of the two dictates the characteristic of the particular malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the formation of trademark &lt;em&gt;malty&lt;/em&gt; flavors will always depend on the spectrum of sugars and amino acids (as well as many other non-melanoidin-forming compounds) in the germinating grain when it's kilned, it's not necessarily a flavor that has many true analogues in every-day life. The most common synonyms I've heard are &lt;em&gt;bready&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;toasty&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;bisciuty&lt;/em&gt;. These examples no doubt share many of the same flavor compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address a few of your questions directly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is &quot;malty&quot; the same as &quot;body&quot;?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really. Body's much more about mouth-feel, the perceived thickness or substance of a beer, whereas &lt;em&gt;malty&lt;/em&gt; is a distinct flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is it possible to have a low body but malty brew?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, definitely. Think of styles like English milds and bitters, some darker Belgians, American red ales, etc. Malty flavors, but no cloying fullness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;which malts ... contribute a &quot;non-malty&quot; flavor?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, none do, since all malt intrinsically has the flavor of itself. Apples always taste like apples, even if they don't taste like all other apples. However, lighter malts will have &lt;em&gt;less intense&lt;/em&gt; malt flavor than darker ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;what is the word for non-malty?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Non-malty&quot; :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Re: sweetness/body&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sweetness&lt;/em&gt; is tricky because there are so many uses of the term which do not imply &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweetness&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;sugary&lt;/em&gt; sweetness&lt;/a&gt; (literally the taste of fructose/sucrose). In this sense, sweetness, as we most often use the word, is very closely related to &lt;em&gt;body&lt;/em&gt;, as both have much to do with the perception of the thickness and mouth-feel of a beer. In my experience, the best prediction of sweetness (as you suspected) is the final gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there can be actual, sugary sweetness in beers. Some fermentable sugars &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; survive fermentation, for various reasons. Some unfermentable sugars can have perceivable, if only very subtle, sweetness. Dextrins are virtually flavorless, and I've read multiple authors suggest they are not a high enough molecular weight to account for the body of a beer alone, though they will contribute somewhat. Some dextrins, as Pepi suggests, may be further reduced to simple sugars by salivary amylase, though this is probably limited in scope since the enzymes in saliva (α-amylase, virtually identical to that in malt) are incapable of hydrolyzing the branch-points of dextrins, meaning only dextrins larger than those derived from a typical mash would yield much sweetness. They could be a factor in very low diastatic-power mashes, which may leave such larger dextrins unconverted in the wort which pass undermented into beer. A well-planned (short and hot) mash schedule could easily promote this kind of sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bitterness, as you suggest, is also a big factor in the perception of sweetness, in that it tends to offset it. Thinking of bitterness and gravity as ratios rather than isolated numbers always made more sense to me. It makes it very easy to 'scale' a beer of a particular sweet/bitter balance to a higher or lower ABV%; in my experience maintaining the ratio maintains the balance, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many other flavor compounds in beers can be perceived as sweet, either directly or in their contribution to a beer's body. Alcohols (both ethanol and fusel) contribute a characteristic mouth-coating fullness, especially at high levels. Esters may have a complementary effect. Too much diacetyl lends its own particularly slickness, and various proteins that survive into the beer contributes viscosity and body, much more so than dextrins. Unfermentable melanoidins and caramelization products will also boost body and sweetness perception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T23:46:37.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1046" CreationDate="2015-04-14T01:02:30.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So i bought a lb. of Citra hops (14.4% AA) and used several oz., then stored the rest in the freezer, in a ziploc bag (but original bag was opened). I decided to go to school to get a Masters which resulted in me not brewing for about 1.5 years. I recently brewed a black IPA with the intention of using up the hops. I ended up using only 7 of 10 oz. for a 5 gal. batch (1.75 oz. bittering @ 70 minutes, 3 oz. flavoring @ 5 min to go and 2.25 oz. aroma @ flame out). As always, i tasted the sample that i used to check OG. HOLY CRAP! It burned like tabasco or black pepper... very spicy. Great aroma, but the spiciness was NUTS. I called the local brew shop and they told me to make a tea out of some of the remaining hops. Sure enough, using only about 5 small pellets in a cup of water heated to very warm and it was REALLY spicy. So it was definitely from the hops. Not sure what sort of chemical change hops go through over time but for what it's worth, this was my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12079" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T01:02:30.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15144" CreationDate="2015-04-14T03:15:28.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Beerbug is simple on how it gets its SG readings. &#xA;It uses a weighted buoy, or other contraption that sinks in the wort. &#xA;then it reads how much it weighs, the lighter it is the thicker the wort. &#xA;heavier it weighs, thinner or lower gravity of the wort......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at these links, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewbeerblog.com/2014/06/06/homebrewing-equipment-review-beer-bug-part-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;beerbug review 1&lt;/a&gt; and  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewbeerblog.com/2014/08/07/homebrewing-equipment-review-beer-bug-part-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; you can plainly see the weighted buoy attached with nylon? string. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it makes sense on why it is so cheap compared to actual sensors for reading density or pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture for reference from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewbeerblog.com/2014/06/06/homebrewing-equipment-review-beer-bug-part-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.brewbeerblog.com/2014/06/06/homebrewing-equipment-review-beer-bug-part-1/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmQeU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are probably going to need a load cell/strain guage, or some device to measure the weight of the buoy, you may be able to find a module on sparkfun or alibaba, or if you have more electrical know how build one, which i think i might, seeing how simple this is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T03:15:28.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15152" CreationDate="2015-04-14T03:18:35.390" Score="2" ViewCount="2695" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a yeast starter last night with 1500 ml of water, 150 g DME and a Wyeast 1056 smack pack. After boiling, total volume was just under 1500 ml. I put it in a 2 liter erlenmeyer flask on a stir plate and covered the top with foil. By morning it went Mt. Vesuvius and had bubbled out the top all over my stir plate. I've definitely lost some yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made several of these before and never had this happen. Is this unusual? What is a reasonable volume starter for a 2 liter flask? Should I chill, decant, and do another starter to make up for the lost yeast or just pitch it and see what happens? It's for an IPA with an OG of 1065, so I don't want to underpitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12080" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T06:02:32.023" Title="Overflowing yeast starter" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15151" CreationDate="2015-04-14T12:31:11.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not unusual. I'd easily believe that a 1.5L starter would overfill a 2L erlenmeyer at full krausen. I would suggest using an anti-foam agent in the future. I regularly do 1.6L starters in a 2L erlenmeyer w/o any hesitation or foam-over, due to the introductions of 1-2 drops of liquid simethicone (baby anti-gas drops), available in your local supermarket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a good handle on how much yeast you might have lost, but I'd probably just plow ahead, maybe adding some new boiled/cooled wort to make up for any liquid volume lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're still worried about underpitching and don't have time to re-do the starter, see if you can grab a packet of US-05 to pitch along side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think you'll be fine continuing the current starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T12:31:11.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15151" CreationDate="2015-04-14T12:32:50.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that's unusual. I've had a similar experience where the starter overflowed massively and constantly, creating a huge mess. It didn't happen every time I made a starter, but twice was too much. I don't actually use my Erlenmeyer flask anymore because of this. I may someday buy another 3 liter flask, but in the meantime I've reserved a growler for the purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T12:32:50.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14873" CreationDate="2015-04-14T16:33:52.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different ways to stop fermentation. The bottom line is you have to kill the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A way to do it would be to let it ferment until it finishes and then sweeten it afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding Potassium Sorbate will not stop an active fermentation, but will help the fermentation not to restart when adding additional sugar after fermentation to sweeten the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be wise to let the yeast die and then siphon it to a new container before sweetening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7896" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T16:33:52.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15157" CreationDate="2015-04-14T16:38:20.010" Score="7" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a DIY CO2 system for my fish tank. I use fermentation for the CO2. 2 and a half weeks ago I filled a 2ltr soda bottle with water, 2 cups of demerara sugar and a tsp of bakers yeast. This wasnt intended for drinking (no sanitisation first etc) just for producing co2 as cheaply as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came to change my mixture today and rather than just throw away whatever it is i'd fermented I thought i'd try syphoning the mix into another 2ltr bottle (this is called racking, right?). Then, unable to resist, i poured a little into a glass and tasted expecting vinegar. Although its quite sharp to taste, its not vinegar by any means! it is still very fizzy and has a lasting sharp taste that tbh is not unpleasant. I could mix this with juice and drink it quite happily..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so as the subject says, WHAT have I made and if I choose to drink it all am I going to make myself sick? Now I have this mixture syphoned off into a bottle is there anything else I should do to improve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12081" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T23:18:11.750" Title="what have i made and is it safe to drink?" Tags="|flavor|sanitation|co2|diy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-14T18:40:58.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While these are nice lists I would like to point out that you do not &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; a 5 gallon bucket and carboy.  I like to experiment with new recipes using a two gallon bucket and an old one gallon apple cider jug. Cheap, easy, and provides 8 bottles of beer in much less (brew day) time than a five gallon batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12082" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T18:40:58.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15155" CreationDate="2015-04-14T19:07:28.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've made sugar wine, called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilju&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;kilju&lt;/a&gt; in Finland. It's also the precursor to rum, which is distilled from a wine made from sugar cane juice or molasses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's safe to drink, but to everyone's taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T19:07:28.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-15T00:47:46.420" Score="4" ViewCount="6007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a new ginger bug from some pretty old ginger.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ginger has been sitting on my counter long enough for some of it to actually sprout new shoots, but it smells fine and doesn't show any signs of having gone bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got great fermenation, plenty of bubbles, etc.  However, I'm told that a ginger bug should smell like &quot;fresh ginger&quot; which this one decidedly doesn't.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It smells slightly medicinal and very alcoholic.  Not sure if it is actually alcoholic, as I haven't tasted it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ginger smell in it is pretty strong, but doesn't smell like &quot;fresh&quot; ginger - more like ginger tea.  The ginger and sugar used were both organic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this how it's supposed to smell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12084" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-02-03T11:36:57.460" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T05:20:13.470" Title="Ginger Bug Smell?" Tags="|fermentation|ginger-beer|aroma|ginger|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15160" CreationDate="2015-04-15T13:43:51.783" Score="2" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be brewing an IPA this weekend and fermenting in a bucket...so much easier to clean afterwards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once fermentation is complete, I am going to dry hop for  7-10 days in the primary.  That would keep it in the bucket for about 2-2.5 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never kept anything in the bucket for this long (usually I would transfer)...will it produce any off flavors or is the time short enough that there is no need to worry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T15:28:53.963" Title="Plastic Bucket - Primary &amp; Dry Hopping" Tags="|off-flavor|dry-hop|primary-fermentation|bucket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15159" CreationDate="2015-04-15T15:28:53.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No problem....I go longer than that in buckets regularly.  However, dry hopping is one of the few times I still use a secondary.  There are interactions between hops and yeast that can increase flowery esters.  After experiencing that, I found that I get better dry hop character by getting the beer off the yeast before dry hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T15:28:53.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-16T08:09:53.013" Score="5" ViewCount="2329" Body="&lt;p&gt;While cold crashing is it right to use a lid with an airlock?Do we risk to get oxygen in the fermentor fron the airlock(and as a result to oxidize our beer) while co2 leaves free space as it &quot;goes&quot; in our beer and leaves free space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12090" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T13:12:49.737" Title="Cold crash with airlock or not" Tags="|co2|cold-crash|oxidation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13435" CreationDate="2015-04-16T14:50:24.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm South African and my grandmother used to make ginger beer all the time when we were little and it always had raisins in. Unfortunately she is no longer around for me to ask her why but whatever the scientific reason is, I think it's the traditional way to make ginger beer in South Africa. I loved the raisins and will be adding some to my recipe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12091" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T14:50:24.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15161" CreationDate="2015-04-16T15:31:11.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no need for an airlock.  By the time you get to cold crashing, fermentation is done so the need for an airlock is gone.  I seal the fermenter using a solid stopper before cold crashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T15:31:11.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15091" CreationDate="2015-04-16T20:16:18.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see stories all the time about broken hydrometers. They are fairly fragile devices. Why risk contaminating a batch of beer you worked so hard on (and is worth more than the hydrometer even) with thin shards of broken glass that would be the result of breaking the hydrometer inside your carboy? Especially in a narrow-necked glass carboy, I could see this being a disaster. Even on a stainless steel &quot;bucket&quot; fermentor, I could see it breaking on the unseen thermowells or pickup tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T20:16:18.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15139" CreationDate="2015-04-17T10:23:46.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and no (sorry). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the kind of sugar used, as well as the yeast. You could get close with grapes or honey, as nearly all the sugar will ferment. But malt/malt extract would always have a good amount of unfermentable sugar in it, adding uncertainty in addition to the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you know your yeast and your fermentables very well, then yes you can do this in a way. Every good brewer or beer recipe will predict the resulting alcohol, based on some version of the above formula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as checking finished product with a refractometer, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10913/can-a-refractometer-be-used-for-testing-final-gravity&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T10:23:46.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12184" CreationDate="2015-04-17T21:45:24.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kahlua professes to be a coffee liqueur, so I'd imagine anything made with coffee will kind of taste like Kahlua, but you're going to need to be more specific about your plans for us to give you a good answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sweetened coffee can be combined with coffee-steeped grain spirits to produce a homemade coffee liqueur. I've done it; use decent coffee, throw in a splash of vanilla and a cinnamon stick, and it's tastier than regular Kahlua.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advice I'd have for a coffee wine would be to start with cold-brewed coffee, to reduce the &quot;stale coffee&quot; flavor you might get from letting hot-brewed coffee sit for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12099" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T21:45:24.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15169" CreationDate="2015-04-18T15:44:39.547" Score="1" ViewCount="985" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to starting making smaller batches (10L) but most of the recipes that I have found online are for larger batches. Luckily, it seems that you can scale down ingredients linearly but unfortunately I can't locate this feature in most recipe websites that I have tried so far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you recommend some &lt;strong&gt;free&lt;/strong&gt; PC/Online tool that would have a large database of recipes and would allow &lt;strong&gt;in an easy way&lt;/strong&gt; to scale down the recipes to smaller batches without me multiplying every ingredient manually?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10857" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T17:27:50.110" Title="Adjusting beer recipes to smaller batches" Tags="|recipe|recipe-scaling|software|beer-tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15168" CreationDate="2015-04-18T15:53:57.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtoad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewtoad&lt;/a&gt; allows you to set the batch size when you're creating or editing recipes. It's not the greatest set of tools, and I find it lacking when it comes to its utility on brewday. With that said it's a decent tool for making and storing recipes, and it's free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T15:53:57.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15168" CreationDate="2015-04-18T17:21:03.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtarget.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewtarget&lt;/a&gt;, which has a scale feature, which works up or down. I use to scale down 5 gal batches down to 1 gal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also open source(free), and works on linux or Windows.....I have both and use drop box to sync the databases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T17:27:50.110" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T17:27:50.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15151" CreationDate="2015-04-19T06:02:32.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say a starter in an erlenmeyer flask really should be somewhat under filled. As you add more wort, you lose surface area to exchange CO2 and O2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back when I was doing actual microbiology, growing bacteria, we would only put about ~25% of the stated volume of medium in an erlenmeyer (somewhere around or below the lowest measuring line).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast don't grow quite as fast as bacteria, so it's probably OK to fill them higher (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewerspublications.com/books/yeast-the-practical-guide-to-beer-fermentation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White &amp;amp; Zainasheff&lt;/a&gt; show a picture of 2000ml flask filled right to 2000), but as stated that can overflow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a stir plate, and when I stir manually all the foam comes up at once. I have keep the flasks below 50% filled, but I seem to get a good pitch from a couple 250ml flasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general I'd say any starter that could be in one flask will be healthier in two. Or one larger flask. And it won't overflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T06:02:32.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-20T01:10:56.547" Score="1" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally find my homebrew wine (just from a regular kit) has a soapy kind of aftertaste. I'm wondering if this might be down to fermentation temperature or something, I'm taking as many precautions as possible sanitation-wise and folowing instructions to the letter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10685" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T00:13:36.797" Title="Soapy aftertaste in wine, fermentation temperature?" Tags="|fermentation|temperature|wine|off-flavor|aftertaste|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2015-04-20T04:14:56.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My process is to bottle condition at room temperature then every 7 days put a bottle in the fridge overnight and give it the taste test.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its carbonated to your liking then load up the fridge, else wait till the following week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12094" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T04:14:56.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15161" CreationDate="2015-04-20T10:01:11.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The temperatures at which you cold crash are generally inhibitive of yeast working (unless you're lagering, that is). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that note, I have had issues before when letting the beer clear at around 15 degrees celsius (59 f) outside of refrigeration, and noticing extra co2 being produced after primary. In this case you'd definitely be better off with an airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8372" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T10:01:11.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-20T15:16:17.217" Score="0" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something that has never happened to me.  Brewed early Sunday and hit 80+% efficiency.  I used Wyeast London Ale that was fully bloated when pitched.  Over 36 hours later zero activity.  No krausen, No air lock movement...nada.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a heavier beer (1.080) and I did not have time for a starter so it is possible that the yeast is working but not enough to show anything visable.  I am going to check the gravity when I get home, but in case nothing changed what is the best course of action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I buy another Wyeast pack?  Dry yeast?  etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T15:16:17.217" Title="No Activity or Krausen" Tags="|fermentation|primary-fermentation|wyeast|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-04-20T17:34:41.053" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15181" CreationDate="2015-04-21T18:23:56.640" Score="2" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brew day ran long and by the end of the process I was tired and ready to be done. Due to this lapse in concentration I had a major failure in my sanitation process - I forgot to sanitize my better bottle (it only got a light rinse). I didn't realise until after I had aerated and pitched the yeast. Now 12 hours later I have a healthy looking krausen and active fermentation, but I'm worried about contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How soon would contamination(infection) be observable, and how would I go about determining if the beer is infected? I don't want to waste time (and fermentor space) on a beer I'll have to dump if it's bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T11:50:00.050" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T11:50:00.050" Title="How (and how soon) can I determine if my primary is contaminated?" Tags="|beer|sanitation|contamination|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15179" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15180" CreationDate="2015-04-21T18:28:39.457" Score="0" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on brewing a wheat beer with Danstar Munich Wheat Beer Dry Yeast. I didn't realize until I had already made the purchase that the optimum temperature for fermentation was 55-65. I don't currently have the equipment to maintain that temperature and was hoping to keep it around 70-73. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What ill effects, if any, will this have on the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just bite the bullet and buy a different yeast strain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12065" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T20:39:26.360" Title="Optimum Fermentation Temperature" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|fermentation-temperature|wheat-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15179" CreationDate="2015-04-21T20:39:26.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The style guidelines for wheat beers mention ester notes as being common in German, and moderate in American wheat beers. I expect you might be ok. On the other hand, you might go with a saison or other farmhouse style that's more heat tolerant. You'll get more predictable results staying within the recommended temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T20:39:26.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15178" CreationDate="2015-04-21T21:04:51.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4851/can-an-infection-be-identified-by-sight?rq=1&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question might be your best answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a spoiled batch that was still pretty useful for cooking, and wasn't the worst thing I've ever drank. I did end up dumping over half of it, but it wasn't a total waste. Admittedly, of the three spoiled batches I've made the other two were terrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're really hard up for space I'd let it finish and just see how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T21:04:51.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15178" CreationDate="2015-04-21T22:22:38.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you notice off smells during the (presumably vigorous) primary fermentation, you'll probably have to wait until the kraeusen dies down. Once it has, look for a flaky white deposit on the surface of the beer. If you see that, you might as well toss it. Otherwise, just proceed as usual...and keep your fingers X-ed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T22:22:38.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15187" CreationDate="2015-04-21T23:55:02.927" Score="1" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good afternoon, guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never done tincturing before, and actually just saw a recipe for Capsicumel (jalapeno mead or methodology). The recipe states adding 2 peppers into the primary when the ABV reaches 10%, and at the same time put 3 peppers in 175ml (6oz) of vodka... After 3-4 weeks use the created peppered vodka to adjust the taste of the mead to desired one. So, since I'm new to this method, my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After soaking peppers in vodka for 4-6 weeks, do I just add to the batch (obviously oz by oz) straight? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can it be done with other ingredients like oak chips, spice (cinnamon, etc), berries (juniper, etc), herbs (wormwood, heather, etc), hops etc. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What can I use besides vodka? I'm thinking about bourbon or brandy for creating oak tincture... &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anything I should try to watch out?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T02:16:10.390" Title="Creating a tincture extract question" Tags="|ingredients|mead|spiced|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-22T00:19:25.310" Score="0" ViewCount="1002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing my first batch ever, we did our best but something is going on in the fermentation and I'm not sure what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a 30 sec video of the issue: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHd8HJSzZfM&amp;amp;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHd8HJSzZfM&amp;amp;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically there is a lot of foam and the airlock is overflowed by it.&#xA;Data:&#xA;- The initial density of this batch was 1050, even though we tried to make it less, our initial malt/water ratio during the maceration phase was a bit off so the density was huge.&#xA;- The yeast we used was a 11gr Golden Ale (0.3 oz)&#xA;- The amount of wort is around 20lts (5.2 gallons)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were worried a bit about the high density and the yeast being very little, but a brewer friend of mine told me it would just delay the fermentation because the yeast will have to multiply more before it starts fermenting. And it did, fermentation took close to 48hs to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any input you might give :) hopefully we will save the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12106" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T03:57:10.550" Title="Fermentation issue - Airlock overflow" Tags="|fermentation|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-04-22T13:03:14.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15184" CreationDate="2015-04-22T02:14:12.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case it helps anyone, the solution was a blow-off hose like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thisisdrivel.com/beer/brews/images/whim090516_001.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thisisdrivel.com/beer/brews/images/whim090516_001.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12106" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T02:14:12.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15184" CreationDate="2015-04-22T02:55:10.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is usually caused when there is a lot of wort volume for the size of the fermentor combined with a very active fermentation. It isn't anything to worry about just make sure you have a blow off hose like you said. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid problems like this in the future, reduce your batch size or increase the carboy size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually adding to that 11gr seems like a lot of yeast, which could have contributed to the blow up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8372" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T02:55:10.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15183" CreationDate="2015-04-22T03:36:50.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The preferred way to determine how much to add is by measuring a very small amount (a few milliliters to start) into a small sample of beer. It would be helpful to have a pipette or eye dropper to do this. Peppers can vary widely in capsaicin content, to you really want to be careful with them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aromatic flavors will extract in alcohol, as they tend to be not very hydrophilic, and a little volatile (otherwise they would not get to your nasal passages). Things like salt, sweet, bitter, OTOH act directly one the tongue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Anything that contains alcohol should work. Other solvents would work too, but that's probably a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't use too much, obviously, and for some spices don't soak too long.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T02:16:10.390" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T02:16:10.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15184" CreationDate="2015-04-22T03:57:10.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might also want to check your fermenting temperature.  Pitching when the wort  is hotter than the optimal temperature for the yeast can lead to higher than expected fermentation rates and resultant overflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T03:57:10.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-22T11:43:38.160" Score="1" ViewCount="1094" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not succed to configurated my SESTOS digital PID with an temperature sensor probe working between -40°C to + 120°C.&#xA;I put CtrL to 3 ( PID ) SN to 20 ( cu50 matching my sensor ) and Op1 to 2 ( Al1 actived )&#xA;All the others parameneter I left the factory setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I escape from the setting the red display show a wrong temperature ( arroung 50° when we have 20°C ambient. I try with a PT100 sensor normally SN set at 21; it is also not working ( AT green display and RED display are blinking.&#xA;Please, could you give me a good setting for SESTOS digital PID for my application:  I used it for an water boiler to regulated the temperature between 10° to 70°C.&#xA;thank you for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12107" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T14:14:39.983" Title="How do I set up a Sestos D1S temperature controller with an NTC temperature sensor probe -40-120C" Tags="|boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15161" CreationDate="2015-04-22T13:12:49.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If using a carboy as a fermenter, simply use sanitized foil over the top and neck.  I've done this for years for ales and lagers with no ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3510" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T13:12:49.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-23T13:15:00.480" Score="1" ViewCount="1007" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first best of home brew fermented for 6 days, then transferred to barrel for the net 3 weeks - i used woodforde's real ale mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT at the last seconds i forgot primer so i improvised wit 80g of caster sugar for 23 litres of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience of using caster sugar as a primer in a barrel? And more importantly - have i just borked my first barrel?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12113" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T18:05:13.233" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T15:30:09.243" Title="Using caster sugar as a barrel primer. Bad idea?" Tags="|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15196" CreationDate="2015-04-23T13:26:14.737" Score="3" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an event coming up and I've got one beer that I'm going to bring, but I'm thinking about brewing another. If I do that, I need to turn it around in about two weeks. Which is probably too short, even with force carbonating. But it got me thinking about what goes into a short fermentation time, and I don't know much about how the different components contribute to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I would want to have a fairly low OG, like around 1.04. Probably a pilsner, but maybe a low alcohol wheat would be good. Do different types of grains have different effects beyond just the sugar they contribute? Do I want to avoid specialty grains? Does extract, partial, or all grain make a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then hops, maybe a session IPA is the way to go. I've heard that the reason you dry hop after the primary fermentation is done is because the hops can interfere with fermentation. If that's true, do I want to keep the hops low overall? Are hops equal in this respect, or is it specifically related to something that varies with the variety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the yeast I think I would want to have something that is heat tolerant and low esters, so I can raise the temperature a bit and encourage growth. Is there such a thing as too much of a starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T20:28:37.897" Title="What are all the factors that contribute to short fermentation time?" Tags="|fermentation|recipe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15178" CreationDate="2015-04-23T14:13:10.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you should just dump it.  No infection in beer is going to harm you so go ahead and taste it.  You may be able to add some Brett and get an awesome sour from it.  Kitchen Science At Its Best!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T14:13:10.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15194" CreationDate="2015-04-23T14:20:33.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specialty grains, extract vs. all-grain does not make a difference on fermentation time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason to avoid dry-hopping in primary is not for interference with fermentation, but the yeast and CO₂ production will separately steal a lot of hop character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is something about overpitching yeast, but I wouldn't worry about it too much; if you're really looking for a super-quick fermentation, pitching a lot of health yeast is a good way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest a low/moderate-gravity hefeweizen, which can be turned around in 2 weeks (1 week fermentation, 1 week force carb) and is best when fresh anyways. A pale or session IPA should work fine, as well; if you use 1056, note that it &quot;produces diacetyl and fusels if reproduction stage is over 71f or excessively underpitched.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd oxygenate the wort well and use yeast nutrient. Pitch a larger starter at high krausen. Keep fermentation temps elevated but not excessively so. Keg after 1 week and force carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T14:20:33.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15194" CreationDate="2015-04-23T15:14:35.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently turned around an AIPA in 8 days from brewing to drinking.  The key was pitching an adequate amount of healthy yeast and carefully controlling fermentation temp.  I ran at 63F for 3 days until FG was reached, raised to 70F for 1-2 days to complete fermentation, then crashed to 33 for 3 days to clear the beer, kegged and force carbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T15:14:35.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15205" CreationDate="2015-04-23T20:01:39.480" Score="0" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Red Star champagne yeast to brew natural sodas, but I'm stuck on one issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the room-temp fermentation I move the (2-liter soda) bottles to the refrigerator (38°F) but the fermentation continues at about the same pace.  The bottles show significant bulging after just 8-10 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I switch yeasts or is there something else I can do to slow the fermentation so that I can safely move the product into glass bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8315" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T01:25:38.700" Title="Yeast not slowing under refrigeration" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|soda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15198" CreationDate="2015-04-23T22:17:57.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the yeast isn't going to sleep fast enough. You could try putting the bottles into the freezer for a short time before refrigerating in order to reduce the temperature rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8372" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T22:17:57.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15193" CreationDate="2015-04-23T22:22:13.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that 80g seems like not as much as you could've gone, however you'll still definitely see some carbonation. I'd recommend something about 100-105g or 150g of DME dissolved in some warm water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, you should be fine. It's better to under carb then over carb and get bottle bombs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8372" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T22:22:13.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15204" CreationDate="2015-04-23T22:31:28.207" Score="1" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although it's few years I'm into homebrewing I made only few batches, about 6-7, trying different styles, like pale ales, sweet stouts and weiss. As now I always used extracts plus speciality grains and I've never done mashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm quite happy with the result but all the batches are quite heavy bodied. It's difficult for me to explain exactly what is it, but for sure I never made a refreshing, light bodied pale ale. Of course for some styles it's what I want, but not for others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what I can to to improve this and be able to have a light bodied beer? It seems the the different OG of the different styles I tried don't give me the expected results. Is this a problem with the extract? Should I move to partial or all grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12115" LastEditorUserId="12115" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T15:01:17.647" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T16:30:08.600" Title="All my beers taste heavy bodied" Tags="|extract|mashing|extract-plus-grains|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15203" CreationDate="2015-04-23T23:02:24.617" Score="3" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the FG is what measures the residual sugar in the final beer, why do we use OG, instead of FG, to calculate the ratio of the bitterness over the sweetness in final beer? How precisely is the quantity IBU/GU?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11907" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T00:50:21.237" Title="Why is IBU/GU a good measure?" Tags="|original-gravity|final-gravity|bitterness|sweetness|ibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15202" CreationDate="2015-04-24T00:50:21.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a good question, and I've talked to a few people that agree. I think it's just the nature of the recipe definition/creation process (especially historically): we control most directly the OG, not the FG, even if we're able to anticipate/estimate it.  But, yes, we're really trying to control the bitterness:sweetness ratio in the consumed beer, and FG is our proxy for sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T00:50:21.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15201" CreationDate="2015-04-24T01:11:18.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering that your problem is consistent, I would say it is the extract. Although you can make good beer form good extract, you can't control the fermentability, so you can't make different styles very well from the same extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going to a partial grain recipe might be relatively painless way to fix the problem. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homebrewing#Brewing_in_a_bag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brew-in-a-bag&lt;/a&gt; method is easiest to set up. Get some highly modified American or Australian 2-row, crush it (at your brew shop) and then mash it for 60-90 minutes at 60C/140F. This will &#xA;give you a highly fermentable (arguably too fermentable) wort to which you can add extract after the mash. By adjusting the ratio of grains to extract you should be able to dial in the body that you want for the style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that your yeast are giving up a little too early at the end of fermentation. Usually this would be attributed to poor temperature control: if there is a drop in temperature, and not much sugar left, the yeast will become dormant and never consume the residual sugar in the beer. But this kind of thing is usually not consistent, I'd expect you to get a good brew here or there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T01:11:18.903" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15198" CreationDate="2015-04-24T01:25:38.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing about champagne yeast (and other wine yeasts) is that they have been selected to eat a lot a of fermentable sugar with little nutrients around. Another facet of this is, even though the yeast is recommended for a particular temperature doesn't mean it won't ferment outside that range, or wake up later to finish the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as there is live yeast and a bunch of sugar around, you can't really &quot;safely move the product into glass bottles&quot;. There's a reason champagne bottles are so heavy, and the cork is held in with wire!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People that make hard cider have &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3858/sweet-sparkling-cider-without-pasteurizing-sulphites-or-lactose&quot;&gt;similar problems&lt;/a&gt;, maybe their methods would work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T01:25:38.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15194" CreationDate="2015-04-24T01:39:09.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Denny &amp;amp; jsled are right, and I want to add: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dry hopping is usually done at the end of fermentation, and could prolong the time to completion (unless you put the hops right the keg you will serve from).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saisons can be be made very fast, the ferment can go up 90F (maybe higher) without a problem. I use Wyeast French Saison all the time and find it very fast and clean. I recently got a batch from brew to bottle conditioned in 12 days, without going above 75F.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-04-25T20:28:37.897" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T20:28:37.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-25T00:48:34.930" Score="2" ViewCount="16976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen conversions of like.. add 10% when going from pellet hope to leaf hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is probably numb nuts.. i.e., I see recipes that have leaf hops in them and I want to use pellet hops... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if the recipe calls for:&#xA; 0.3 oz Liberty whole hops w/ 4.5% a.a. how much would I use if using pellets?&#xA;Same with German Halertauer hold hops asking for 1 oz of 4.3% a.a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My assumption ;-) ... if going in the opposite direction.. pellet to whole you would add 10%.. then going from leaf to pellet you would use 10% less ?????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10855" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T16:19:19.913" Title="Leaf Hops to Pellet Hops" Tags="|hops|conversion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15207" CreationDate="2015-04-25T02:51:28.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just use the same amount, under the idea that the different in weight is about the same as the difference in utilization.  It just really does not matter at the end of the day; you're talking differences of &quot;10%&quot; with error bars of &quot;5%&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T02:51:28.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15207" CreationDate="2015-04-25T03:52:30.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that no two plants within a particular variety will produce exactly the same hops, I doubt it will vary significantly more when you compare whole leaf to pellets. This is the same reason why stats about a hop are often given as a range. I think you're fine just substituting the pellets in without making any changes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used both and found little flavor difference. I tend to use pellets, but that's just for ease of use and storage. I have a hop spider that I built and it was a pain to stuff all the whole leaf into it. Although the whole leaf was pretty easy to use dry hopping and didn't clog up my racking cane, like the pellets can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T03:52:30.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-25T15:47:24.880" Score="2" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a question. Have I ruined my brew?&#xA;I sterilised everything as normal. Got my 2 litres of boiling water and added the contents of my coopers Australian pale ale to it mixed it up with the spoon. Filled the fermentation bucket up to the 22.5L level. Seen it was at 25°c and pitched the yeast. Then had a sudden realisation what I'd missed. Forgot to add the brewing sugar. So I quickly opened my coopers beer enhancer 2 and added it on top of the yeast. Gave it a stir to break the sugar up. And sealed it up. What I'm wondering is because I pitched the yeast before adding the brewing sugar will it affect it in anyway? Because I added the sugar after I'd filled the bucket the total volume went up to 23.5L too. Also because I did it in a stupid order I had to take my o.g reading with the yeast pitched so will this effect anything?&#xA;Please help I made a right mess of this one.&#xA;Thanks James.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12117" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T16:58:10.603" Title="Have I ruined my brew before I even begin?" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15210" CreationDate="2015-04-25T16:17:43.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely nothing wrong with what you did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T16:17:43.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15207" CreationDate="2015-04-25T16:19:19.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The conventional wisdom rule of thumb is to use 10% less pellets than whole hops to maintain the bitterness.  Notice I said bitterness...for later additions for flavor and aroma, a 1:1 ratio is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T16:19:19.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-26T06:31:43.530" Score="0" ViewCount="1562" Body="&lt;p&gt;What if it was Steramine that dropped in the beer? I wasn't thinking when I transferred my beer from the 1 gal Brooklyn Beer carboy to a Mr Beer container that had a spigot to make bottling easier, and the Steramine solution in my rack and cane dropped into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info: not sure how much sanitizer dropped in, but the rack and cane plus the tubing that came with the Brooklyn Beer kit was full of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my second time brewing, my first time was even worse, when I broke a glass thermometer in the beer. I followed through to the end and noticed that filling up the bottles using the rack and cane plus tubing kicked my butt, I was spraying beer all over the place. I guess I need to get an auto siphon. I felt like I was doing pretty good with this second batch until I had butterfingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12120" LastEditorUserId="12120" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T06:44:51.537" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T16:13:07.020" Title="Steramine sanitizer in beer, safe to drink?" Tags="|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-26T10:25:34.777" Score="0" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have made 300 litres of organic single variety Dabinett cider - it was crushed in November 2013.  Nineteen months and four rackings later - it genuinely tastes divine and smells OK - but you can't see through it. It's not cloudy per se - more of a dark, dark brown fog really. We have added absolutely nothing to it. We allowed natural yeasts to ferment the juice and it completed this process without out our intervention with Campden tablets. The strength (6.5%) hasn't  moved now for four months so I guess to all intents and purposes it's slowly moving into decline now.  We have a number of local outlets who  will take this product for sale but as it stands - we can't really see how we can sell it looking the way it does.  We don't want to add finings as we'd prefer it to be wholy naturally  produced - but equally it doesn't look as though 'time' will do the job either.  We desperately want it to be ready in the next four weeks to hit the early summer market. Anybody any ideas?  Thanks.  Terry P   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12121" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T11:26:45.203" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T11:57:14.927" Title="Dabinett Single Variety Cider - Cloudy!" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15215" CreationDate="2015-04-26T15:56:31.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your options are a) finings, b) filtering, or c) cold-crashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've already said that a) is not an option, as you don't want to introduce any other ingredients. Filtering will almost certainly remove the haze, but will also have an impact on taste by removing some compounds that carry flavour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the means, I'd try cold crashing. Quickly drop the temperature of the cider to 32 F., and leave it for a week or two. The haze-forming particles should drop the bottom, letting you rack the clear cider into clean, sterilized containers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe test the process on 10 or 20 litres to see if it's going to work before attempting to cold crash all 300 litres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T15:56:31.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15214" CreationDate="2015-04-26T16:13:07.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never encountered Steramine before. According the the manufacturer's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sanitize.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/SDS6-Q092513.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;safety data sheet&lt;/a&gt;, it's harmful if swallowed. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quaternary_ammonium_cation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; on the active ingredient, quaternary ammonium cations, states that ingestion can cause irritation of the stomach lining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that given the dilution of the Stermine in the beer, it's effectively harmless, but the safest route is to throw out the batch and start again. It's only 1 gallon, so you've not lost too much beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future batches, consider using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/wp-content/uploads/StarSanTech5.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;StarSan&lt;/a&gt; as sanitizer. At the recommended dilution, is entirely non-toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T16:13:07.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15248" CreationDate="2015-04-26T18:34:13.947" Score="0" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on implementing three-way ball valves in my three vessel, single pump system and I want to be able to regulate flow on the outward side of the pump. Will a three-way ball valve effectively regulate the outward flow rate, or will it just divert flow in different directions, requiring two other one-way ball valves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3876" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T06:41:23.283" Title="Do three-way ball valves control flow rate as effectively as one-way ball valves?" Tags="|equipment|pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14873" CreationDate="2015-04-26T19:47:32.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat it to 160F / 71.1C and hold it there for 6 seconds to pasteurize it, then add the malt sorghum.  That will kill most microorganisms that might be in it, including the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11991" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T19:47:32.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15226" CreationDate="2015-04-27T01:37:20.147" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good afternoon, guy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been planning to make a specialty cider and have been looking into &lt;strong&gt;&quot;28B. Fruit Cider&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; of 2008 guide or &lt;strong&gt;&quot;40B. Cider with Other Fruit&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; of 2014 version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I don't really get is what is it... Does it mean that I have to use apple juice as primary source of sugar and other fruits (like apricot) for the taste, or can I just use apricot juice and still call it an &lt;strong&gt;other fruit cider&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have to use apple juice, what proportion is appropriate, like 51%/49%? I'm asking it from BJCP point of view. If I eventually make something worth drinking, and enter it into one of the competition, I don't want to be disqualified. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if it is a dumb question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T16:51:10.443" Title="Other fruit cider BJCP question" Tags="|cider|fruit|bjcp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6599" CreationDate="2015-04-27T09:00:02.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use gin as it is fine to drink if you accidentally suck it back through the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T09:00:02.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-27T09:04:18.240" Score="1" ViewCount="3075" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying dried yeast for the first time. I did up 100 litres of English IPA yesterday and I pitched 2xS04 into 50 litres and 2xUSO5 into 50 litres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody want to hazard a guess at the fermentation times? I am fermenting at about 18 degress C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is 04 faster than 05? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are both faster than liquid Wyeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T15:12:47.853" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T09:00:42.660" Title="Fermentis S04 vs.US05" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|wyeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14717" CreationDate="2015-04-27T09:15:31.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did it pssst when you opened the bottle? I leave my bottles one week at ferm temperature, then 3 weeks as cool as possible to help the CO2 get absorbed in to the beer to make it fizzy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T09:15:31.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15222" CreationDate="2015-04-27T15:38:06.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation time will depend on a lot of factors...if you want to compare to Wyeast, you need to specify which strain.  05 and 1056 ferment in about the same amount of time. but 05 often takes longer to drop clear.  I think 05 -may- ferment a bit faster than 04, but no guarantees.  The difference in flavor between 04 and 05 is dramatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T15:38:06.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15220" CreationDate="2015-04-27T16:51:10.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your first question is under the Flavor/Aroma section: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The cider character must be present and must fit with the other fruits. It is a fault if the added fruit(s) completely dominate; a judge might ask, “Would this be different if neutral spirits replaced the cider?” A fruit cider should not be like an alco-pop.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, under overall impression:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Like a white wine with complex flavors. The apple character must marry with the added fruit so that neither one dominates the other&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, this description is saying that the beverage should taste like apple cider with other fruit flavors blending in. That would be difficult to achieve without using some apple juice. As for the ratio, I think it depends on what the other fruit is, and how prominent its flavor is when compared to apple. When I am trying to brew a style for the first time, I usually search the web for recipes and look for common guidance on the proportion of ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is a relatively subjective category. Judges are looking for balance and a pleasant taste, and the parameters are not nearly as strict as they are for most of the styles. Part of the fun of homebrewing is experimentation -- brew a batch, and see how you like it. You can tweak the ingredients on the next round to improve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T16:51:10.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15210" CreationDate="2015-04-27T16:58:10.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest consequence of what you did is to add an extra liter of water. Your finished beer will be slightly lighter. For example, if it was to be 4.5% Alcohol by Volume, it might be 4.1-4.2% ABV instead. You probably won't notice the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T16:58:10.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-27T17:40:36.820" Score="0" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;for several months now I have been squeezing my ripened citrus and storing it in an air tight bottle in the fridge.  I drink or add it to something from time to time and continually add juice to it. On Saturday I went to drink some and it had a Kombucha like fizz when I tasted it. What is this and is it drinkable?  Have I created something good or is it filled with bad bacteria?  Help before I throw it out please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12124" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T11:44:18.360" Title="I don't know what I've got or if it's drinkable?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15193" CreationDate="2015-04-27T19:50:21.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be fine.  Depending on the beer's temperature and whether it was completely finished fermenting, you should have somewhere in the neighborhood of 1.7-2.2 volumes of CO2, which is perfect for a real ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11991" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T19:50:21.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15242" CreationDate="2015-04-28T05:29:09.210" Score="0" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/aha-events/national-homebrew-day/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AHA Big Brew Day&lt;/a&gt; Recipes, I was looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Old-School-Barleywine-All-Grain1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Old School Barleywine&lt;/a&gt; (pdf). I get the hops schedule, but the fermentables has me confused. In the instructions, it says mash at 152 F for 90 minutes, I get that. Then mash out at 168 F for 15 minutes. I'm not sure I get that. Perhaps I don't understand really what a 'mash out' is. (That is a subject for another question.) My question here (and perhaps it relates to the mash out) is that it lists grains for both the mash and the vorlauf. I'm wondering how these two are related, specifically, how are grains &lt;em&gt;used in&lt;/em&gt;/&lt;em&gt;added to the mash&lt;/em&gt; while starting the vorlauf? Are they added while vorlaufing (is that a word?)? I can't ever guarantee how long a vorlauf might take, so is this related to the 15 minute mash out? Relevant recipies and instrutions below...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Fermentables&#xA;Mash&#xA;12 lbs (5.4 kg) 2-row malt&#xA;6 lbs (1.4 kg) Maris otter malt&#xA;&#xA;Vorlauf&#xA;8 oz (227 g) Caravienne® malt&#xA;8 oz (227 g) Crystal 40 malt&#xA;4 oz (113 g) Crystal 65 malt&#xA;2 oz (57 g) Crystal 120 malt&#xA;2 oz (57 g) Special B malt&#xA;&#xA;Mash grains at 152° F (67° C) for 90 minutes&#xA;Mash out at 168° F (76° C) for 15 minutes,&#xA;with pre-boil wort volume of 6.5 g (25 L)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T09:32:14.577" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T15:35:01.583" Title="Vorlauf Fermentables?" Tags="|mash|vorlauf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15231" CreationDate="2015-04-28T08:17:19.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Mash out&quot; is a step to denature (kill) the enzymes in the wort so that they don't keep working during the vorlauf/sparge etc. You are 'locking' the fermentability at a certain point, to preserve some dextrins so the beer will have body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes grains will be added after the mash to get some, but not all, of the character from them. For example, very dark grains (like the Special B) are often added this way to give color without the astringency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding the crystal malts at the end of the mash is a little unusual, most brewers put them in the mash as they have some starches to be broken down. But the sugars (the crystals) will dissolve readily, giving the crystal malt flavor. Maybe the intention here is to also get some starch into the wort, just to make sure this 1.109 beer doesn't end up too thin...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the 15 minute time is given just to make sure the enzymes are fully denatured. A little longer would be OK, but would could add more tannins to be wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T08:17:19.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15228" CreationDate="2015-04-28T11:44:18.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently you haven't gotten sick yet, so its safe enough to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably getting spontaneous fermentation from whatever was growing on the fruit. The low pH of citrus makes this safe in terms of bacterial growth, but yeasts and mold could be growing in it. And maybe some lactobacillus, which is a plus in my opinion. So maybe its safe, or maybe your urologist will tell you in a few years how much &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ochratoxin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ochratoxin&lt;/a&gt; that mold was making. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time you can throw some proper yeast in there to be sure its safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as what it is, it would fall under the umbrella of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pruno&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pruno&lt;/a&gt;, although some Brits I know, who are not convicts, insist it is called turbo cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further entertaining info I recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;amp;q=fermented+orange+vomit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;google&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T11:44:18.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15193" CreationDate="2015-04-28T15:30:09.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;23 litres? Are you using a rotokeg? I add 90g of fine brown cane sugar (fairtrade from Lidl;) to my 23 litre rotokegs of English ale to prime them, and they come out great. Cheers! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T15:30:09.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-29T04:02:52.353" Score="2" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;My husband has what appears to be about 46 oz. of what I am guessing is liquid malt extract in a cabinet above our built in microwave.  I know we brought it from our old house when we moved to our present house just over 20 years ago.  I want to throw it out.  I can't imagine it is any good at this age.  Could it possibly be okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12130" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-05-02T05:37:19.493" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T03:16:45.793" Title="Shelf life of liquid malt extract?" Tags="|extract|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-29T09:23:23.487" Score="1" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did search, but didn't get any proper answer.&#xA;I have access to &lt;em&gt;bleach&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and silver (Ag) ions&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (no star-san nor Iodophor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to go with a no-rinse sanitizer.&#xA;I've heard hydrogen peroxide can be a good choice. But the question is that the producer claims it can be effective up to several days, so if I dilute it in water and disinfect my carboy and stuff without rinsing, isn't it gonna ruin my yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, I can't wait for hours for the solution to break down completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12131" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T10:56:42.203" Title="The effect of hydrogen peroxide on yeast" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|disinfecting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15236" CreationDate="2015-04-29T10:56:42.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably no problem. Chemical sanitizers will react with / be neutralized by all the organic material in the wort, leaving the yeast undamaged. But that doesn't necessarily mean you'll want the end result of that reaction in your beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bleach is effective, and can work very quickly in a high concentrations*, but you'll want to rinse every bit of it away because chlorine-containing compounds can taste really bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peroxides tend not to cause flavor problems because peroxides are naturally occurring compounds, but there are some other issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_peroxide#Disinfectant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hydrogen peroxide without silver&lt;/a&gt; isn't very good against spores, so it would be similar to boiling (better or worse? IDK), unless you crank up the concentration*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydrogen peroxide with silver seems to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chemtexlimited.com/oxidizing-biocide.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;more effective&lt;/a&gt; and used in the food industry, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.silverperoxide.com/Brochure%20silver-%20peroxide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rinsing&lt;/a&gt; is again recommended because you don't really want to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/ipcsneng/neng1116.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ingest silver nitrate&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peracetic acid is very popular, and effective at a safe &amp;amp; sane 0.2%, if you can get it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get it, it will apparently form by mixing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peracetic_acid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vinegar and hydrogen peroxide&lt;/a&gt;. I'm not sure if the reaction carries any risks, or what concentration you'll get. But I can say that if you throw a bottle cap in it, and the metal starts to dissolve in 10 minutes or so, you're in the ball park**.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*It will also attack metal/flesh and/or explode and/or give off hydrogen when used this way.&#xA;**Don't do this without know some chemistry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T10:56:42.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15235" CreationDate="2015-04-29T11:03:55.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could possibly be OK, but is it worth your time to make a beer just to find out whether you've saved $9? Chuck it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T11:03:55.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9931" CreationDate="2015-04-29T13:25:37.383" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm late to the game here, but for anyone else who lands here, try this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2013/03/dry-hopped-bud-light.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2013/03/dry-hopped-bud-light.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12132" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T13:25:37.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15241" CreationDate="2015-04-29T14:00:37.753" Score="5" ViewCount="14130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious about something that maybe someone can answer from personal experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I took red or concord grapes, crushed them, filtered the juice, covered it and stored it at an average temperature (say 75°F or so), what would happen to the juice? I am saying that there were no additives put in the final juice (e.g. sugar, yeast, etc.). Would the juice turn to vinegar? Wine? Spoiled juice? If wine, what would be the alcoholic content and would there be a point at which fermentation would end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, just curious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12133" LastActivityDate="2019-09-02T04:48:31.483" Title="What would happen if you took raw grape juice and covered but did not refrigerate?" Tags="|fermentation|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15240" CreationDate="2015-04-29T14:08:36.057" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grape skins have wild yeast on them that will, in time, ferment the grape juice. Depending on the particular blend of yeast on your grapes, you may get complete fermentation, or the yeast may have low alcohol tolerance and the fermentation will halt before all the sugars have been consumed. Yeast contribute to the flavour profile of the wine, and unquantified yeast will produce unpredictable results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Wikipedia's &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yeast_in_winemaking#Wild_yeasts_and_natural_fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on wine fermentation with wild yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The use of both &quot;ambient&quot; and non-Saccharomyces wild yeasts carries&#xA;  both potential benefits and risk. Some winemakers feel that the use of&#xA;  resident/indigenous yeast helps contribute to the unique expression of&#xA;  terroir in the wine. ... But compared to inoculated yeast, these&#xA;  ambient yeasts hold the risk of having a more unpredictable&#xA;  fermentation. Not only could this unpredictability include the&#xA;  presence of off-flavors/aromas and higher volatile acidity but also&#xA;  the potential for a stuck fermentation if the indigenous yeast strains&#xA;  are not vigorous enough to fully convert all the sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To know the final alcohol percentage of the wine, you'll need to buy a hydrometer. Take a note of the specific gravity of the juice before fermentation, and then again after fermentation has finished. The hydrometer will have a &quot;potential alcohol&quot; scale. Subtracting the final reading from the initial gives you an estimate of the final alcohol percentage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T20:08:54.130" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T20:08:54.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15231" CreationDate="2015-04-29T15:35:01.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a batch sparge in this scenario: the wort from the 90-minute mash is drained and the grain is rinsed with a 168º mash-out infusion (or two) to collect residual sugars. Typically, this water can be dumped into the mash tun, stirred a bit, then collected. In this case, rather than the usual &quot;dump-n-drain&quot;, the &quot;Vorlauf&quot; grain would be added after collecting first runnings, followed by the mash-out infusion(s). Wait 15 minutes, drain, boil wort as usual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3876" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T15:35:01.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15243" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-29T17:24:45.183" Score="2" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;So i looked up a cheap way to make me self some wine, and i decided to go with cranberry juice 100% from concentrate no preservatives or anything like that in it, i started of with 1liter, i poured some sugar in too for higher abv, and put about 3grams of baking yeast, the bottle was sterile since it contained the juice in it, now it has been about 4-5 days and the wine is little bit carbonated and still too sweet for my liking, will the sugars still be converted to alcohol withing 2 weeks or so, should i use champagne yeast next batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12134" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T02:24:20.303" Title="Brewing first wine from juice need some help" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9931" CreationDate="2015-04-30T00:47:47.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that this question is &quot;reopened&quot; I have found a couple of very good resources for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hop Union has an aroma finder: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopunion.com/aroma-wheel/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hopunion.com/aroma-wheel/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The way this is set up is that each aroma is split into 3 groups and each group is alphabetical (so where the alpha order &quot;resets&quot; is the start of the next group) and each hop has up to 3 aromas and the higher the group the more dominant the aroma is for that hop. Ex. Citra is in group 2 for Fruity and group 1 for Citrus so Citrus is a more dominant trait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good resource is the Barth Haas Flavor Wheel: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.barthhaasgroup.com/wheel/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.barthhaasgroup.com/wheel/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;They also have this in a variety portfolio PDF version: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.barthhaasgroup.com/images/pdfs/hop-varieties/13-10899_uebersicht_Rohhopfen-EN_FH.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.barthhaasgroup.com/images/pdfs/hop-varieties/13-10899_uebersicht_Rohhopfen-EN_FH.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I know links are generally frowned upon since they could go away but I'm not sure how to embed this data since its a bit more complicated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="302" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T00:47:47.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15243" CreationDate="2015-04-30T14:33:24.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cranberry juice is rather acidic, so the yeast may have a hard time completing fermentation due to the acid content. However, assuming that won't be an issue, and taking into account you are using bread yeast I would expect to have fully fermented &quot;wine&quot; after about 3 weeks. Did you take a hydrometer reading? If you took an initial gravity reading you could periodically check the gravity and halt fermentation when you are satisfied with the alcohol content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully that helps &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11892" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T14:33:24.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15218" CreationDate="2015-05-01T06:41:23.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the configuration of the valve (two hole or three hole ball, allowed range of handle movement, etc). If it has an 'off' position, then you should be able to regulate the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three hole balls are designed to blend the flow from two ports into one, and apparently don't shut off completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two hole ones should have an off position, and should behave like a regular valve. I would assume that, if you get it from a brew shop it will be two hole, but it's always best to check it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T06:41:23.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15250" CreationDate="2015-05-01T15:18:06.693" Score="1" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing extract kits and was wondering if it'd be al right to top off at 5.25 gallons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Directions say 5 but I have never kegged a full 5 gallons, was hoping the extra quarter would get me closer to kegging 5 gallons since some is left behind in the carboy because it has too much sludge mixed in with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know your thoughts, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10679" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T00:09:40.250" Title="can I top off at 5.25 gallons instead of 5?" Tags="|fermentation|wort|keg|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15249" CreationDate="2015-05-01T16:46:13.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's certainly nothing that's going to stop you, and everything will probably turn out fine if you make no changes to your recipe and just throw in an extra 1/4 gallon at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you are diluting your wort a bit, so you're decreasing your OG. You could attempt to increase your OG by a minor amount, but that will be a little more difficult since you're not doing a full boil. You would have to calculate the OG for the reduced boil, and calculate the amount of extract you need to add for a 1/4 gallon. I don't think it would be worth it to try and be exact on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was me, I probably wouldn't bother adding the extra water, but if I was to add water; I would just guess at it. If you have extract leftover you could add a small amount, if you don't have the extract I wouldn't bother worrying about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T16:46:13.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15249" CreationDate="2015-05-01T20:02:51.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made quite a few batches of beer from extract kits and it started to annoy me when bottling day came that I didn't fill 48 bottles, so I started adding a little extra in primary to make sure I got 48 bottles on bottling day.  BBS is totally correct, you are going to lower your OG and possibly alter the flavor profile of your wort, but for me, I prefer having the full 5 gallons of finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3624" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:02:51.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15249" CreationDate="2015-05-01T20:39:43.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to BBS's answer (this will lower your OG), filling past the 5 gallon mark will further reduce the amount of headspace in your carboy/bucket. Some yeast require more room than others, and you could end up clogging up your airlock or losing more beer out a blowoff tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to target a specific gravity rather than a specific volume. I don't always hit the 5 gallon line before I've hit my target gravity, but I'd rather have my beer turn out the way I want than fill a few more bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1633" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:39:43.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15235" CreationDate="2015-05-01T20:45:30.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/blog/about/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Briess says 24 months&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you're talking about 10 times the recommended shelf life. I'd toss it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1633" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:45:30.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-02T16:05:03.507" Score="1" ViewCount="316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did two different dark beers, a rauchbier and a imperial stout, and noticed a grape aroma and flavor in them. The fermentables that there're in common are: pilsen, flaked oats, caramalt and black malt. My intuition says the black malt is the source of grape's flavor, but I'm not sure. While in the rauchbier (fermented at 18C, 5% of black malt) this flavor was too unpleasant, in the imperial stout (fermented at 16C, 1% black malt) it was smoother and didn't dominate. Apart from the difference in the temperature (higher producing more esters, i.e., fruity flavors), where are this grape flavor coming from? Is it coming from the black malt indeed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11907" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T15:20:08.540" Title="Where does the grape flavor/aroma come from in dark beers?" Tags="|flavor|fruit|off-flavor|malt|aroma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6333" CreationDate="2015-05-02T20:11:45.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a few from different scrap pieces of wood and bought some chalk tape. I found the hardware at Lowe's. Check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20180312151137/http://www.woodworkingfourdummies.com/blog/keg-tap-handle-diy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;my blog&lt;/a&gt; for pic and details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12142" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-12-17T02:43:05.917" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T02:43:05.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-02T21:57:18.690" Score="1" ViewCount="1912" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Primary Fermentation: 50*F/10*C       2 weeks&#xA;Diacetyl Rest:        65*F/18.3*C     2 weeks&#xA;Lager:                31*F/-0.5*C     4 weeks&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am reading contradictory information regarding the amount of priming sugar to add for carbonation to a lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sources suggest using the &lt;code&gt;highest temperature&lt;/code&gt; (in my case, 65*F/18.3*C) while other sources suggest using the &lt;code&gt;lowest temperature&lt;/code&gt; (31*F/-0.5*C) assuming it was held &quot;for a while&quot;, and other sources suggest using the &lt;code&gt;current temperature&lt;/code&gt; as the input to calculating the total priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, using the calculators from Brewer's Friend and Northern Brewer, for 2.2 volumes of CO2 for 5 gallons of beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Brewer's Friend  33*F  1.5oz  of corn sugar&#xA;Brewer's Friend  65*F  3.8oz  of corn sugar&#xA;Northern Brewer  33*F  1.57oz of corn sugar&#xA;Northern Brewer  65*F  3.5oz  of corn sugar&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about the fact that when I take my carboy out of the freezer into room temperature, it takes me no less than 5 minutes to siphon it into a bottling bucket, and no less than 30 minutes to bottle 5 gallons (operating at my peak efficiency)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I fill 12 bottles at a time before capping them all. Not only is the bottling bucket warming at one rate, but each of the bottles are warming up at different rates based on the time they have been out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is relevant here? Is it &quot;the temperature of the bottle at the moment it was sealed with a cap&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I over thinking this or are these relevant issues? Should I just wait for the beer to warm up to the stable room temperature, calculate the priming sugar based on room temperature and go from there? Or, does carbon dioxide escape the solution based on a function of time and temperature, not just temperature, which would require me to leave the carboy at room temperature for some time before adding the priming sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T19:18:25.853" Title="How to Calculate Priming Sugar while Bottling Lagers?" Tags="|bottling|temperature|lager|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15257" CreationDate="2015-05-03T02:50:16.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently these calculators are telling you how much sugar is currently in the beer, assuming the yeast have been working at the current temperature (and that the beer remains saturated with CO2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If cold beer is put in a room temperature bottle, it will warm and lose some CO2 in a few seconds. So I'd say calculate based on temperature when the cap is put on. But to predict that means knowing the temperature of the beer, the bottle, the mass of the bottle, the specific heat of the bottle, the heat transfer through the hose, etc. And, also how temperatures might change during the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest way is to have everything at the same temperature the whole time. If you are planning to bottle condition at room temp, just let the carboy warm up before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T02:50:16.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15257" CreationDate="2015-05-03T15:28:03.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What the calculators are trying to estimate is how much CO2 from fermentation is still dissolved in the beer. The yeast produce CO2 during fermentation, most of which escapes into the atmosphere, but some remains in solution in the beer. The amount that remains is influenced by temperature and pressure. Assuming the pressure is nominally atmospheric, we only need to consider temperature. At colder temperatures, more CO2 remains in solution which is why the priming sugar calculators indicate less sugar when you enter a lower temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you warm the beer up, CO2 will slowly escape into the atmosphere. Subsequently cooling the beer will not affect the amount of dissolved CO2. So, when calculating the amount of priming sugar, you should use the highest temperature the beer was stored at for a reasonably long time period after fermentation was complete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think for your purposes, the two week diacetyl rest at 65 F. seems like the right temperature to use in your calculation. Before the rest finished, fermentation should have been complete so no more CO2 was being produced. Furthermore, the beer stayed at that temperature long enough after fermentation for the dissolved CO2 to reach equilibrium with the atmosphere. The subsequent drop to lagering temperature would have no effect on the CO2 content, neither would the temperature change during bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T15:28:03.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15249" CreationDate="2015-05-03T18:43:15.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, there's nothing inherently wrong with topping off past 5 gallons but you will alter the profile of the beer. You'll change your OG and probably your final IBUs. Probably not the color with just a quarter of a gallon, but you'll have a different-tasting beer in exchange for like two extra bottles of beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Losing volume between the fermentation and bottling is pretty normal, so I wouldn't sweat it too hard. The main thing you'll want to focus on is reaching a target OG. If you're doing that and you're hitting 4.75 gallons routinely then you're doing it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's really something that bothers you, use something like BeerSmith 2 or any of the various calculators to find your optimal pre-boil gravity and change your recipe accordingly by adding more extract. I think you're better off avoiding adding extract after the boil. Also, you might want to use DME rather than LME for this since DME's typically aren't hopped and won't affect your color, where LME's will make your beer darker and hoppier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12028" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T18:43:15.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15003" CreationDate="2015-05-03T18:52:37.160" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you just want to get your wort cool faster, buy or make a wort chiller. It's basically a coil of copper tubing with a hose at either end that you can attach to a hose or a sink spigot. You immerse the chiller in your wort, right in the pot, and you turn on the water. Cold water runs through, absorbs the heat from the wort, and runs right back out. I can take a wort from a rolling boil to 64F in about thirty minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12028" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T18:52:37.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14874" CreationDate="2015-05-03T19:06:32.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say Amarillo. It's a west coast hop but not quite as widely used as Cascade. You could try Simcoe, as well, for the same reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12028" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T19:06:32.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15266" CreationDate="2015-05-03T19:18:15.417" Score="2" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just finished building my mash tun using an insulated plastic barrel. Everything works great but when I pour hot water into the barrel and put a lid on, pressure builds up inside and eventually &quot;blows up&quot; the lid. My question how do you deal with this? Do you let the steam slip away (make a small hole or something like that) or do you just fix the lid so it won't budge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10857" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T13:49:02.240" Title="Pressure inside mash tun, lid popping up" Tags="|mash-tun|bucket|barrel|lauter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15267" CreationDate="2015-05-03T20:53:13.770" Score="2" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen around here and in other sources that for homebrewers a secondary fermentation (concerning autolysis) isn't necessary, unless you're going to dry hoppy or something like that. My question is about autolysis when reusing yeast. When one storage an used yeast for several months, or over several batches, is it needed to be careful with autolysis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally people says that a starter would be enough to get the right amount of live cells and therefore autolysis isn't a problem. But dead cells will survive through starters, why this is not a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For how much time and how much batches is it safe to maintain the yeast cake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11907" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T23:46:33.790" Title="Is autolysis a problem when reusing yeast?" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|autolysis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15264" CreationDate="2015-05-04T13:04:56.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make a hole. There is no need for the mash tun to be air tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T13:04:56.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15265" CreationDate="2015-05-04T13:44:27.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll want to keep the yeast cool (under some beer) or cold (in the fridge after the beer is removed) to minimize autolysis. The warmer it is the faster they run out of glycogen, and once they run out they'll start dying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dead cells aren't necessarily a problem, as long as your viability hasn't dropped too much. If most of the yeast are alive, then they will happily eat what's left of the dead ones after they get some sugar and oxygen. However, too much dead yeast is a problem because it means all the other yeast are very stressed. They might not perform as advertised when used again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro brewers usually use yeast 8 to 10 times before they have problems. The problems are usually related to yeast health, but contamination is also a good reason to get fresh yeast from the lab. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that pros are probably storing the yeast only a few days between uses. Maybe someone else can say how long and how many times they get away with at home (no clear answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4352/how-many-times-can-yeast-be-reused?rq=1&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). But few serious home brewers do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T13:44:27.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15275" CreationDate="2015-05-04T18:27:49.153" Score="0" ViewCount="389" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first beer with Brettanomyces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have brewed an Orval-like beer, OG 1.062, primary yeast WLP510 Bastogne Ale, and WLP650 Brettanomyces Bruxellensis as secondary yeast, pitched after 2 weeks in primary (SG 1.010 at pitching, after racking to secondary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has now been 6 weeks, and a thin but hole-free pellicle has formed, about week 3-4. I sampled the beer today, and while the flavor is nice, it has virtually no Brett character, and SG is still 1.010. Temperature is stable around 21 C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expected SG 1.004-1.006 at this time. What is wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T11:10:16.367" Title="Why has Brettanomyces in secondary formed pellicle but no attenuation after 6 weeks?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|brettanomyces|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15003" CreationDate="2015-05-05T07:55:42.270" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may also know that it is not possible to get Extract without boiling malts.&#xA;Try to put malts in cold area to make them colder fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12147" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T07:55:42.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15240" CreationDate="2015-05-05T08:18:57.967" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this way you will find only smelled spoiled juice at the end..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12147" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T08:18:57.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15264" CreationDate="2015-05-05T13:49:02.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you applying heat to your mash tun?  If so, don't. Your mash water should only be in the 150 degree (F) range so I doubt that's producing enough outward pressure to push your lid up unless it's made from foil and even then it would just condensate on the underside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what you do... heat the water in a separate container (we refer to this as a Hot Liquor Tank) and transfer the hot water to your mash tun.  NEVER heat your mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T13:49:02.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15265" CreationDate="2015-05-05T23:46:33.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Autolysis is not going to be an issue, but viability will be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, viability is very hit and miss. I've stored yeast in canning jars in my fridge for 6 months and they still worked, and I've had some that were very slow to get going and some that didn't work at all that were only stored a month. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, I don't harvest yeast much anymore. The time, effort and cost that went in to the rest of the brew isn't worth saving a few dollars. In some cases, the flavor profile will not be the same as the original. It's also near impossible to tell how much yeast you are actually storing. Trub has so much non-yeast material in varying degrees, unless you use a microscope and actually count the cells, you really don't know how much you are working with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, it's kind of fun and interesting and you may want to develop a &quot;house&quot; strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you should probably limit the storage to a few weeks and make a starter at least a week before you brew, in case it takes off slow. You should be able to build up enough yeast in that time and if it goes quickly, you can decant off the starter and put it in your fridge for a couple of days. If you have a backup yeast and use a starter, you'll be able to control the process and not risk your beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T23:46:33.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15273" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15276" CreationDate="2015-05-06T01:04:20.437" Score="5" ViewCount="4891" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I made a 5 gallon batch of mead on 10Apr2015. I used 17 lbs of pasteurized clover honey and 4 gallon of spring water (no-boil method). OG = 1.130. I used D47 Lalvin yeast (3 packs) with 1/4 tsps  of Ferm K and 1/2 tsp of DAP 4 times in the first 3 days. Temperature is pretty stable at 68-70F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I as planning to add some strawberries at G=1.050 (ABV~10%) to make it a melomel, but... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 7 days of strong fermentation it stuck around 1.090. It took 3 weeks to move it from 1.090 to 1.060. After that I racked the mead into a clean new bucket and re-pitched another packet of D47... No changes. The gravity is dropping by 0.002 per day at best... Right now it is on 1.050 and I am planning to add some frozen strawberries (5-7 lbs)... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal? Would adding berries boost the fermentation? I want to drop it at least to 1.025. Should I increase the temperature to speed up the process? I'm afraid that it will stop at 1.035-40 or something. Could it be because of the honey? I haven't had any issues with my other meads. Usually I have to manually stop the fermentation at 1.010-15 before it dries out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE (8 May 2015):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been 3 days since added 1tbs of yeast energizer (mix) yeasts, 1tsp of potassium carbonate and 7 lbs of frozen Wild Blueberries (that's how much space I had left in my carboy). For the last 2 days it's been fermenting like crazy. Previously I had bubbles going through airlock one per minute. Now I actually had to get a blow-off tube, because it is bubbling every 2 seconds. Maybe there is hope after all :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know what... since I restarted this mead on the Star Wars Day (May the 4th),  I'll call it &quot;the New Hope&quot;. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastEditorUserId="6374" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T17:47:35.600" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T23:44:35.440" Title="Mead Stuck Fermentation" Tags="|mead|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15273" CreationDate="2015-05-06T10:24:57.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had a beer dropping 0.002 per day, I wouldn't call it stuck, I'd call it &quot;nowhere near ready to bottle&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't make much mead, but I have had mead go about that slow and still finish dry. But it did take a while. Try adding more nutrients, that seems to be a standard procedure. And I think stirring up the yeast is an acceptable practice too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T10:24:57.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15268" CreationDate="2015-05-06T10:29:13.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wait longer, they'll wake up some day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, my most recent brett beer got brett b in the primary, fermented out to 1.010 (typical for the other yeast) and then sat for two month doing nothing before the gravity dropped &amp;amp; flavors appeared. Ended up at 1.005. A bit of pellicle formed later, but I don't think pellicle formation tells you too much in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also find the flavor will be better - less horsey - if you keep the beer a little cooler, like 65F/18C, but maybe its just because I waited so long for the ambient temp to drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T11:10:16.367" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T11:10:16.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15273" CreationDate="2015-05-06T14:19:28.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, first things first, 1.130 is a pretty high starting gravity for some yeasts, and can cause some additional yeast stress, unless you are diligent with nutrients and your yeast is hearty enough to handle it. I'm not saying that this is &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; a problem for D47, but its something to consider. &lt;strong&gt;The more work you expect the yeast to do, the more help you need to give it.&lt;/strong&gt; If you want it to finish sweet, most meadmakers around the web recommend fermenting 100% dry and then backsweetening to the desired gravity. That way, the yeast can operate within a comfortable range, and you have more control over the final outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, for five gallons, those nutrients seem pretty low. 1/4 tsp DAP and 1/2 tsp Fermaid K 4 times is about 1 tsp DAP and 2 tsp Fermaid K for a five gallon batch (3 tsp total). Typically, you'll see about 3/4 tsp DAP and 1.5 tsp Fermaid K for &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; gallon (2.25 tsp).  If you scale that up to five, that would be about 11.25 tsp, which is almost 4 times what you used for your batch. &lt;strong&gt;Most likely, your yeast is nutrient starved.&lt;/strong&gt; Right now, you're sitting at about 62% of the sugars consumed, but your yeast has done about 73% of its potential workload. If you didn't provide enough nutrition, then your yeast will have nothing to help it reach the end and will begin to slow down substantially. Adding berries will provide some more nutrients for the yeast, so you could see it pick back up a bit, but it also adds more sugar. If you add berries, I'd add some more nutrients as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, did you do anything to buffer the pH? Typically this is done with some small additions of either potassium carbonate or potassium bicarbonate up front. Some will say this in not necessary, but &lt;strong&gt;if your pH drops too much during fermentation&lt;/strong&gt; (and it &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; drop), &lt;strong&gt;then your yeast can start to throw off-flavors or stall out.&lt;/strong&gt; Degassing during primary to get rid of some of the dissolved CO2 will also help with this, as CO2 is acidic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at this point you can try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding additional nutrients (nutrients only, no oxygen at this point; berries might help a little)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Degassing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raising the pH if your pH is close at or below 3.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you're &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; worried about it being stuck, though, you can pitch a packet of EC-1118.&lt;/strong&gt; Restarting stuck fermentations is basically its job. It would probably take you 100% dry, sure, but you can always backsweeten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting, though, that as long as you're still seeing the gravity drop, the yeast are still working. Slowly, sure, but they're still at it. Racking was likely unnecessary, and just lowers the yeast cell count. Pitching additional D47 may or may not have done much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Whatever you do, &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; raise the temperature anymore.&lt;/strong&gt; You're already sitting at the top of D47's temperature range, and increasing it anymore is just asking for it to start throwing off fusels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more info on current meadmaking techniques and some other possible ideas, check out this article on homebrewtalk.com:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/current-mead-making-techniques.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/current-mead-making-techniques.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastEditorUserId="8203" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T17:02:53.097" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T17:02:53.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="464" CreationDate="2015-05-06T20:50:17.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local home brew shop carries this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easternshoresbrewing.com/28-hard-maple-mash-paddle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hard maple paddle&lt;/a&gt;. They leave it untreated so no contaminates leeched into your brew. So if it were me and I was hell bent on making my own paddle I would try to find a chunk of hardwood like maple, possibly oak, and go from there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12157" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T20:50:17.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11041" CreationDate="2015-05-06T22:18:35.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never clean glass or plastic carboys with hot water and soap. Use a proper cleaning agent like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easternshoresbrewing.com/straight-a-premium-cleaner-8-oz/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Straight A&lt;/a&gt; or PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash). I have a no scrub method where I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easternshoresbrewing.com/pbw-powdered-brewery-wash-1-lb/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PBW&lt;/a&gt; in my carboys and soak them overnight or longer. You can use PBW repeatedly without it losing effectiveness so generally I leave it in the carboy until I'm ready to use it again and then transfer it into the next carboy that needs cleaning. All the hop material and yeast that form a ring around the top of the carboy falls out and the carboy is ready for use after properly sanitizing it. No scrubbing or carboy brush is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12157" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T22:18:35.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15282" CreationDate="2015-05-06T22:57:20.783" Score="0" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every of 5 previous brews (lager, pilsner, pale ale, IPA) have had a somewhat bitter and malty aftertaste to them. It's not too off-putting (except the lager) but is clearly there, yet not present on your tongue until swallowed (mostly aftertaste). &lt;em&gt;What would cause a beer to have this quality&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5G brews. All liquid malt extracts. Different hop variations. VERY clean during brewing. Water is grocery store spring+distilled. Sugar/powdered(?) for carbonation before bottling. Dark bottles in closet 70-78d. Most have been nicely carbonated, slightly under ABV. Most the time a US-05 yeast is used. The temperature of fermentation have been slightly higher in the 70-78d range. Have done both 1 and 2nd fermentation rounds. Most fermentation times are 2-4 weeks plus 10-14 days in bottles. Nothing out of the ordinary for small-time brewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12158" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T13:00:53.733" Title="Why every brew has a bitter malty aftertaste?" Tags="|temperature|fermentation-temperature|malt|taste|aftertaste|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15281" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:03:17.223" Score="3" ViewCount="795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made my second batch of beer.  It's a pumpkin ale.  I am finding that the bottles contain a large amount of sediment, almost like slush at the bottom the bottle.  The beer is delicious, but I'm wondering how I can prevent this in the future.  My first batch of beer was the White House Honey Ale and those were pretty much sediment free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What influences the amount of sediment?  Should I be &quot;filtering&quot; at some point in the process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12237" OwnerDisplayName="Jon A" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T13:34:04.083" Title="How do I limit the amount of sediment in bottles?" Tags="|brewing|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15280" CreationDate="2015-04-03T20:57:57.727" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're going to be attempting a fine line of enough yeast to consume sugars to properly carbonate the beer versus reducing sediment in the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sediment you're seeing could be a variety of things generally there are a few best practices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Limit trub and other particulate from the boil that makes it into the fermenter.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/brewingtechniques/library/backissues/issue1.4/barchet.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Limiting trub&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Limit particulate from fermentation that makes it into the bottle. This can be done by the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After primary fermentation is complete (a gravity reading stable over the course of several days) reduce the temperature of the fermenter to near 32°F (0°C). This is called &quot;Cold Crashing&quot;.  This will encourage yeast and some proteins to fall. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer to a secondary storage vessel. This IS NOT secondary fermentation as many people will call it, but you're not adding anything fermentable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could add some type of fining agent (I prefer gelatin-finings). This should be done with caution as removing too much yeast could impact the necessary bottle fermentation for carbonation. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold storage vessel at near 32°F (0°C) for a week or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack to a bottling vessel leaving anything that has settled out behind. (I would suggest adding an extra 1/2 gallon (2 litres) (assuming a 5 gallon batch) to your batch size to allow for buffer.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem you may run into is as mentioned in the fining item. Removing too much yeast before bottling could impact carbonation. The best case is you'll reduce sediment but it will take longer. The worst case is you'll reduce it to the point that too little yeast is present and they will over work to consume the sugar. Over worked yeast = high potential for off flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said the BEST (in my option) method for a home brewer is to stop bottle carbonating. Kegging then bottling off the keg when bottles are needed is what I do. I say this because I am not a fan of most filtering systems out there. I don't think the risk is worth it when doing the above steps (minus bottling) will produce very similar results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12209" OwnerDisplayName="Frank D" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T13:34:04.083" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T13:34:04.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15279" CreationDate="2015-05-07T12:33:07.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;malty&quot; taste can come from burning the sugars in the beer. When you slowly pour in the LME, vigorously stir the boil to avoid pooling on the bottom of the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T12:33:07.740" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15283" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-07T12:38:04.150" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kegged my beer, but need it to stay carbonated without using it for a week.  I already carbonated the beer and drank some.  Then, a few days later, I put about 20 lbs of pressure into the keg and shut off the C02 - will this keep the beer fresh and carbonated?  PS - It is a really hoppy IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastEditorUserId="7921" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T12:47:12.363" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T14:00:12.273" Title="Saving Kegged Beer For Later" Tags="|carbonation|keg|ipa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15279" CreationDate="2015-05-07T13:00:53.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;what kind of hops and how much?  You may need to increase the IBUs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what is the extract made from?  Check to make sure it is a 2-Row and not something with more malt backbone (i.e. Pilsner)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also may want to find a higher attenuation yeast strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T13:00:53.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15283" CreationDate="2015-05-07T13:42:38.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been traveling a lot for the last year and haven't been home to drink much of my beer, so I have been doing this without any serious issue. I didn't add quite so much extra pressure when I was disconnecting the CO2, but I wouldn't expect that to cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience it does not keep it especially fresh. Right now in my keg I've got a nice spring ale, that was definitely better when it was fresh a couple months ago. That was a recipe that I knew was going to be better fresh, and it's still quite drinkable -I expect to finish it this weekend. I don't know if it would age more or less than in a bottle, but don't expect it to be in perfect stasis while you leave it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T13:42:38.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15283" CreationDate="2015-05-07T14:00:12.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commercial kegs in distribution, either in transit or in waiting to be put on tap in bar are … exactly the situation you describe. It will be just fine. You don't really need to add any additional headspace pressure over the pressure to reach you intended carbonation level. Hop flavors fade over time, of course, but that's unrelated to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T14:00:12.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15255" CreationDate="2015-05-07T15:20:08.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Black malts usually contribute a roasty flavor and color enhancement.  As far as I know, they shouldn't impart a fruity flavor.  Caramel malts, on the other hand, do.  Check your caramalts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common flavor descriptions for roasted caramel malts between 80L and 120L are &lt;code&gt;&quot;raisin, plum, prunes, burnt sugar&quot;&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.castlemalting.com/CastleMaltingMaltSpecification.asp?Command=QualityParameters2&amp;amp;SpecificationID=183&amp;amp;CropYear=2014&amp;amp;Language=English&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Castle Malting's Château Special B&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Products/Caramel.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Briess's darker caramel malts (80L-120L)&lt;/a&gt; for reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6093" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T15:20:08.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15345" CreationDate="2015-05-07T22:05:34.040" Score="1" ViewCount="934" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would an unjacketed open fermentor, ferment cooler than an unjacketed closed system, given everything else equal. The idea being the ease of releasing strain and pressure on the yeast in an open system being naturally cooler for fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this is too much theory &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3460" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T22:50:07.847" Title="A side by side comparison of open vessel vs closed vessel natural temp rise during fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|fermenter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15288" CreationDate="2015-05-08T00:59:56.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is virtually no pressure difference between open and closed fermentation. Evaporation, on the other hand, could cool the open fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T00:59:56.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4369" CreationDate="2015-05-08T07:41:05.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a two step bottling method. Carbonate the beer in one bottle then transfer it to another bottle recapping before it losing carbonation. You will definitely need a second pair of hands for this. But you vastly decrease the amount of sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12160" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T07:41:05.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5512" CreationDate="2015-05-08T16:15:59.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is my simple recipe for home-made wine using readily available ingredients.&#xA;- 2 cans frozen grape juice concentrate&#xA;- 2 cups sugar&#xA;- 1 pkg Lalvin EC-1118 wine yeast (beer/wine shop or internet)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow instructions for rehydrating yeast on package. While waiting on yeast, pour both cans of juice concentrate into a 1 gallon container and add sugar. add filtered water following directions on juice containers. When yeast is rehydrated, add to gallon container and shake vigorously to mix all ingredients.&#xA;Before I purchased airlocks, I used balloons rinsed and pre-stretched to fit the container top, held on with electrical tape for a tight seal. &#xA;Place container in dark closet, temperature around mid-70 degrees f. &#xA;When balloon starts to deflate (2.5-4 weeks), carefully pour into a clean, 1 gallon container, trying not to stir up sediment on bottom. Refrigerate and enjoy.&#xA;Ideally the wine should age 2 - 12 months, but I never could wait that long.&#xA;This yeast has always given me good results and was recommended by the wine shop owner as ideal for a beginner. Always follow good sanitation practices and you should be good to go.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12162" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T16:15:59.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10345" CreationDate="2015-05-08T20:41:10.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;I would not use PBW on Copper. It contains hydrogen Peroxide which is something you do not want in contact with copper. Using PBW with copper is asking for trouble.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't agree with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sodium Percarbonate, which is perfect for cleaning copper, dissolved in water, yields a mixture of hydrogen peroxide (which eventually decomposes to water and oxygen) and sodium carbonate (&quot;soda ash&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_percarbonate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_percarbonate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12164" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-07-24T14:10:26.470" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T14:10:26.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-08T22:40:32.820" Score="0" ViewCount="9788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen many people filter their hard cider to get rid of bits of yeast.  what will happen if I filter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12165" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T02:18:25.757" Title="Can I filter my homebrew hard cider with a few coffee filters?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15293" CreationDate="2015-05-08T23:07:59.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxidation, big time.  Imagine flavors of cardboard mixed with a decadent undertone of down-pouring rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do it, do it when you pour the beer to consume it, not to package it.  The off-flavors take weeks to develop, and if you're pouring it to consume it, I doubt you'll be taking weeks to drink it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T23:07:59.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-09T08:28:46.110" Score="1" ViewCount="1310" Body="&lt;p&gt;just would like to know if its possible to brew a beer over multiple weeks.I was thinking of brewing my next beer by adding a different hop every week for 3-4 weeks.And at each time adding more sugar and thus adding some more yeast to eat the new sugar added to produce a lil more alcohol each time.Is this  possible??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12166" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2015-05-10T15:24:09.027" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T15:24:09.027" Title="Can I add hops and sugar to fermenting beer?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4473" CreationDate="2015-05-09T13:56:34.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to make some myself and thought I would look on line , I make wine and beer and I have made cherry beer and black berry beer successfully I do believe what ever type of lemon you use would have to be put in the primary fermentor and after two weeks you start racking to make it clearer , you will never get it completely clear ! after racking twice then you apply your priming sugar the same way you would any beer and then bottle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12167" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T13:56:34.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15295" CreationDate="2015-05-09T14:34:01.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding hops late in the process is pretty common, it's called dry hopping. It's a great way to enhance the aroma of hops, without increasing the bitterness too much. It creates a nice fresh characteristic in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding more yeast is not exactly common, but not unheard of. It can be used if the fermentation is stuck, and needs a kick. Sometimes yeast strains are intentionally mixed, but I think that's mostly done before they're pitched in the first place. Sometimes to create sour beers, or other styles, other fermentation strains are added after primary fermentation is done, like lactobacillous or brettanomyces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding more sugar is also a common when bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there's nothing wrong with any of the steps you're thinking about. If you're interested you should totally experiment with it and see how it works out. I can think of two problems you'll have though. You're going to run a very high risk of contamination, you're opening up your fermenter and adding things to it multiple times. Also, eventually you're going to raise the alcohol enough so that it becomes inhospitable to the yeast. Keep an eye on your gravity and use appropriate yeast strains that can survive in the environment you're creating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T14:34:01.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15298" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-09T20:33:39.637" Score="1" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in making pulque, and was wondering how to go about culturing the yeast and bacteria necessary for making it from an existing batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this at all dangerous? I know doing this with yeast from beer is common, I'm only worried about the bacteria part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are best practices for reducing the chance of infection and ensuring a good batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12169" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T06:23:54.937" Title="Culturing Yeast and Bacteria from Pulque" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15295" CreationDate="2015-05-10T03:28:33.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping and secondary fermentation are not great things to do together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping is best done after fermentation, preferably after racking the beer off of the yeast cake. The acids from the hops will actually stick to the yeast (that's how they inhibit the growth of bacteria, etc) reducing the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suspect that having active fermentation will scrub some of the aromatics out of the beer. At the same time, since the hops carry some air into the beer, live yeast are needed to clear up the oxidation. But you don't want a lot of yeast activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of adding fermentables, I think the most likely result will be a sweet beer and/or slow fermentation. It is common to do this for a barleywine, but that style is allowed to ferment for many months (and residual sugar is desired). Lambics also combine old and new beer (and multiple yeast strains), but again, they are allowed to ferment for a long time. These styles are great, if you're willing to wait for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T03:28:33.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15295" CreationDate="2015-05-10T03:51:03.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that you are just looking to increase your final alcohol percentage.  If that is the case, consider bottling up some of your beer in plastic 2-litre bottles and throwing them in your freezer for a day or two.  The water content of the beer will freeze, but the flavor compounds and alcohol won't.  Once you've got an ice-cube floating in the middle of the bottle, pour off the still liquid contents into a sterile bucket and then bottle it.  You will loose some volume, but the resulting beer will be substantially more flavorful and alcoholically strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This technique is called Freeze Concentrating or Freeze Distilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check with your local authorities to make sure that it is legal where you live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T03:51:03.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15320" CreationDate="2015-05-10T06:56:23.860" Score="2" ViewCount="877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making an Rhubarb wine. It's been 'dry sugared' for 3 days and the extracted syrup had a nice pink hue from the pink Rhubarb stems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday evening I made the volume up to 5 litres and the pink hue remained. I mixed up 1tsp Pectic Enzyme, 1tsp Yeast Nutrient, and one crushed Campden tablet and stirred this in with a little water. As soon as I added these chemicals, the pink hue started to disappear, and within another 30 seconds of stirring, the diluted juice was just an off-white colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what killed the colour? I'll be pitching the yeast this evening after a good aeration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 11th May:&lt;/strong&gt; Last night I pitched the yeast. This morning it's fermenting well and a pinkish-orange hue has returned. This makes me wonder if the colour-loss was due to the Yeast Nutrient and now that's being consumed, the effects are negated? Complete speculation!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastEditorUserId="3215" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T18:33:32.487" LastActivityDate="2017-08-29T14:16:07.727" Title="Rhubarb wine colour lost after additives introduced" Tags="|wine|color|yeast-nutrient|campden|pectic-enzyme|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-10T14:32:45.343" Score="3" ViewCount="1594" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making a wee heavy and adding medium toasted oak chips that have been soaked in bourbon.  The chips are tied up in a cheese cloth bag. My question is, should I let the chips dry thoroughly before dropping into the carboy? Or should I add them when they're still moist with bourbon?   Thanks in advance...cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11963" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T17:47:49.310" Title="Bourbon soaked wood chips in secondary" Tags="|ale|oak|bourbon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2015-05-10T14:56:22.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After looking at the pasteurization curve shown and seeing so many opinions I did some research as I wanted to know this answer. According to the chart, if you are conversion mashing at or above 150F/65C you have achieved pasteurization. Pasteurization is not sterilization which would be achieved at boiling for 10 min. Pasteurization goal is to reduce the number of viable pathogens just like all the sanitizing we do. Louis Pasteur developed the process for wine and beer and his range was 50-60C. His goal was to kills most of the bugs without affecting taste. Should store in sealed sanitized container. Refrigeration would not hurt. The most common milk pasteurized process the milk is held at 72C for 15 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12172" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T14:56:22.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15302" CreationDate="2015-05-10T15:20:40.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would add the oak (still wet) and the bourbon it was soaking in to the carboy. The bourbon has probably picked up a lot of oak flavour that you want in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T15:20:40.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15293" CreationDate="2015-05-11T09:10:25.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I tried to get a clear sample from the dregs of a bottling session this way once. The yeast went right through the filters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T09:10:25.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15302" CreationDate="2015-05-11T13:43:35.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar Porter which is due to be transferred soon. I've researched online for an answer to this question, and opinions vary greatly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some say that the whiskey will have dissolved a lot of the tannins, so you shouldn't put it in. Also a lot of those people think it is merely a way of bumping the alcohol by spiking the beer with whiskey (I think they're missing the point of why we are doing this!). Others say the whiskey has all the flavor and you shouldn't put the oak in because you'll just get extra tannins. Others say put the whole lot in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had decided to do the same as @Tobias suggests - put the whole lot in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I have oak cubes in a jar of Maker's Mark.&#xA;If it works, I intend to repeat next year but with Laphroig (an Islay malt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T13:43:35.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15308" CreationDate="2015-05-11T16:45:54.120" Score="2" ViewCount="706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my first DIPA with all Citra hops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about a week in primary, I transferred the beer to a keg, added a little hop sock and added 1oz of Citra. Left it that way for another week and then transferred to another keg which I then force carbonated. About a week later, I started drinking the beer and it was delicious. About another two week later, I had a beer and it didn't taste at all what it tasted like when I drank it at first. Quite a bit of the bitterness and aroma disappeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked all the normal stuff - Cleaned the Tap and beer lines etc. I even at a point shook the keg to get all of the 'stuff' that fell out back in suspension again, but this only slightly helped get some of the aroma back (not sure if this was just in my mind though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make sure you understand that I don't think this was any sort of infection. There was no indication of this, no other off-flavours nothing - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible useful information: The hops was vacuum sealed and stored in my freezer for more than a year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3728" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T03:53:00.483" Title="Kegged DIPA lost bitterness and aroma after three weeks in keg" Tags="|beer|kegging|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15307" CreationDate="2015-05-11T19:49:37.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's not at all an usual occurrence.  Bitterness will fade somewhat with time and aroma even moreso.  Especially with older hops like you used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T19:49:37.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15313" CreationDate="2015-05-11T22:47:44.030" Score="3" ViewCount="1283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a two gallon batch of ginger beer, based on a recipe I found on Stack Exchange.  It fermented dry, is quite tasty, but obviously still full of yeast.  I plan to make a dry, fizzy, alcoholic drink, do I need to let it clear, prior to priming and bottling.  Any insight is appreciated!&#xA;Thanks, Q&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T12:18:28.347" Title="Ginger Beer recipe, how do you finish up?" Tags="|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15243" CreationDate="2015-05-11T22:56:44.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're going to have some type of alcoholic drink, but you picked a few components that can add to the challenge of a first time vitner. Cranberry is a tough juice, as stated, high in acid, can make a good wine, but will need time and possible other additives to balance the final result into something palatable.  Bread yeast will give, a &quot;doughy&quot; flavor, you may wish to investigate a better yeast made for fruit juices.  Also, I have made very good wine, mixing Welchs Concord &amp;amp; White Grape frozen concentrates, water, sugar and a champagne yeast. Simple ingredients, easily obtainable. Q&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T22:56:44.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15307" CreationDate="2015-05-12T11:26:37.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to read more, there's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realbeer.com/hops/aroma.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;excellent article&lt;/a&gt; about just this at realbeer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, &lt;em&gt;hop oils are volatile and degrade easily&lt;/em&gt;. Oxidation due to O2 in the headspace is the biggest reason, but there are others.  There's no way to stop this process but you can slow it down slightly - that article recommends oxygen absorbing caps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3737" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T11:26:37.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15309" CreationDate="2015-05-12T12:18:28.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you bottle it, it will clear up somewhat, this is because when you bottle it to naturally carbonate (with priming sugar), the few weeks you have it resting and in the fridge will be a light cold crash. As long as you don't swirl the bottles prior to pouring you will have a fairly clear beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cold crash it in the fermenter to clean it up, this should drop the yeast from the beer. The other school of thought is to use a secondary fermentation vessel to let the yeast clear up. This increases your chances of infection however, so I would recommend priming and bottling, then leaving it upright in the fridge for a couple of weeks after it's primed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pour slowly to prevent the trub going into your glass, you'll be able to see the trub from the outside of the bottle, you'll probably want to stop pouring with a 1/4&quot; of beer left in the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T12:18:28.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-12T12:49:13.837" Score="2" ViewCount="793" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a fermentation chamber and I was wondering if there is a way to have two zones but only use one cooler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is have two of everything except the cooler. So there would be controller 1 heat 1 and a relay, then controller 2 heat 2 and the same relay. The relay would be plugged into the cooler. If either chamber was to hot the cooler would come on for both if that brought the other chamber down to cold then the heater would come on for just that chamber. Would this work or am I thinking it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12178" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T16:40:39.413" Title="DIY Fermentation Chamber. Dual Zone Question" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15307" CreationDate="2015-05-12T14:50:14.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I generally agree oxidation can be a culprit, if you followed accepted fermentation, transfer and kegging practices this should not be an issue with a young beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your carbonation. Too much carbonation can really mask aroma and flavor of otherwise very flavorful beers. Happened to me on a Blueberry Wheat I made. If its too much, disconnect the air line, and once or twice a day, pull the relief to vent the C02 coming out of the beer. Keep tasting it each day and eventually the carbonation will reduce. If you are a little worried about Oxidation after pulling the release value you could always flush the headspace with 1-2 psi of c02 after draining, but I never worry about it. I have done this 5 times or so, usually when I try to carb a keg too quickly by setting the air high then forgetting about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3647" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T14:50:14.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15302" CreationDate="2015-05-12T17:47:49.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using the Bourbon to sanitize the chips and not looking for much Bourbon flavor, toss only the chips. I don't know if it make much difference if they are wet of dry other than the alcohol will evaporate if you let them dry.   If you are trying to replicate beer aged in Bourbon barrels it only makes sense to toss the Bourbon and oak chips into the secondary. I use around 5 ounces of a good Bourbon to soak the chips in and then toss the whole thing into a 5 gallon batch. Be sure to take samples often after the chips have been in the secondary about a week as the wood flavor can get pretty intense pretty fast. My rule of thumb is to pull the oak chips out just as I think it's getting a little too oaky as the oak flavor will fall out over time leaving a nice balance. &#xA;I've used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easternshoresbrewing.com/whisky-barrel-oak-chips/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Whisky Barrel Oak Chips&lt;/a&gt; as well. The whisky is not very pronounced but it does provide a good oak flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12157" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T17:47:49.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-12T19:24:26.550" Score="3" ViewCount="769" Body="&lt;p&gt;My boil kettle is about 56x85cm, so relatively tall and narrow. I get a good rolling boil but no matter how much hops I throw in in the last 5 minutes I can never seem to get any aroma whatsoever. I'm using a very large fine-meshed filter bag to through the hops into. Could the poor hop utilisation be due to the kettle shape and size, or more likely the hop back (bittering is fine)? Or otherwise, any other ideas? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8501" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T16:27:28.097" Title="Poor hop aroma for late addition hops" Tags="|boil-kettle|hop-utilization|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15317" CreationDate="2015-05-12T19:49:48.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What hops are you using? &#xA;Some hops do not make good aroma hops at all, they are bittering only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How old are they? &#xA;The older a hop, the less aroma you'll get from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you store them? &#xA;If they're stored without oxygen, in a freezer, they will be fresher when you use them. The less fresh hops are, the less aroma they produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you ferment? &#xA;Non food grade plastic buckets could absorb the aroma. If you're using cleaning materials that have perfumes, or you're not rinsing correctly, you may lose aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long do you ferment? &#xA;If you just use primary and it's short, the aroma may be over powered by other aromas (such as yeast or malt), or if you have an excessively long fermentation, the aroma will dissipate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you dry hop? &#xA;If you don't, you may want to, dry hops give the most aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you age? &#xA;The longer you age your beers, the less aroma that will be available from the hops when you serve/drink the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you server?&#xA;From bottles, you may have left them too long, or the bottles may not be sealed well and lose the aroma.&#xA;From keg, check how you're cleaning it, is the keg leaking gas? That may lose aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short: There's no clear reason why without a lot more information, a full breakdown of your process and your recipe, you may just not be adding much at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T19:49:48.473" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13115" CreationDate="2015-05-12T21:41:01.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Chino Brews says The WhiteLab site refers to this blend as &quot;Flocculation: Medium&quot;. I have used other yeasts describe similarly they have all cleared over the course of a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be the yeast, in which case using isinglass would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with most things in brewing there are myriad reasons other than the yeast as to why your brew may be cloudy take a look here for a description them: &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/hops/item/944-just-fine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/hops/item/944-just-fine&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T21:41:01.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15301" CreationDate="2015-05-12T21:54:23.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My initial guess was the Campden tablet's SO2 was the culprit and hunting around for similar stories I found this on a home brew forum: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=267418&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=267418&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Observations in this thread would seem to fit with what you have experienced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T21:54:23.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4478" CreationDate="2015-05-12T22:11:51.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am going for a sweet Ginger Beer then I use a low attenuating Ale yeast such as S04, for a drier Ginger Ale I tend to use a wine yeast, and allow it a few days longer to ferment out more of the sugars. I have used Baking yeast, baking yeast is not a good plan, but as a student I had no other to hand and it made something roughly drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would love to hear your feed back on using a Belgium yeast if you are using some belgium then try to keep the brewing temp high for the first few days to boost the ester profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T22:11:51.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13413" CreationDate="2015-05-12T22:32:37.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess that your hops were old or had been poorly stored. The Alpha acids drop off rapidly unless you are storing them at low temps ie in the freezer: &quot;It has been shown that the rate of loss halves for every 15 degrees C (27 degrees F)&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exposure to oxygen also degrades the Aplha Acids in your hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using malt extract it is better to add it later if you are aiming for an exceedingly high bitterness as the sugar in solution impedes the extraction of alpha acids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Specific Gravity of Wort: Dense, high-gravity worts with lots of dissolved sugars will reduce the ability of the wort to extract alpha acids in the boil.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/hops/item/122-alpha-hop-soup-figuring-bitterness-ibus-aaus-and-hbus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/hops/item/122-alpha-hop-soup-figuring-bitterness-ibus-aaus-and-hbus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T22:32:37.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12549" CreationDate="2015-05-12T22:41:30.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used low AA hops such as Saaz 3-4% in a bittering role and high AA hops such as Amarillo 8-11% in a Aroma flavour role, both to very good effect. There are no hard and fast rules on this. One thing to remember is that the flavour and aroma profile of bittering hops will come through in the final brew, even if you boil for 60-90 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All modern hops can be used to for early addition/bittering role, you will just have to use 3 or 4 times as many as a 'bittering' hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, many bittering hops can be used in the Aroma or dry hopping role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T22:41:30.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15249" CreationDate="2015-05-13T00:09:40.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always up my liquid to finish a bit over the planned 5 gallon standard, before separating the beer from the trub. Mainly because of priming concerns, most of my beers require 1oz of corn sugar per gallon.  When I first started I ended up with just over 4 gallons and then added the kit's allotment of priming sugar, not bottle bombs, but definitely over carbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T00:09:40.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2015-05-13T13:23:02.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;have you checked out YouTube?  There are thousands of them.. some good.. some not so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10855" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T13:23:02.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14968" CreationDate="2015-05-13T13:41:41.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also consider putting in a plastic zip lock or other and using a pastry roller.  It's also good for cracking small specialty grains that are too small for the setting on your mill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10855" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T13:41:41.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14552" CreationDate="2015-05-13T21:09:18.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally do not use bags for Leaf hop additions, as the filter on my kettle captures all the pieces of hops. Where as with pellets I find they escape from my kettle and make the beer bitty, so I tend to use them in a tight weave bags.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May be split the hops into 2 bags so they have more space to circulate and stir the wort with the bag to get the wort flowing over the hops. I have done this with 10g of citra pellets in a similar bag 2 min before end of the boil and got rather pleasant citrus aroma. The problem is likely there is very little diffusion through the tight weave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T21:09:18.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13010" CreationDate="2015-05-13T21:21:14.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you in future experience these tea flavours or aromas, when not using Whirlfloc, then they may be due to tannins. If it is a bitter stewed tea flavour, that could have been tannins extracted from the mash. If the pH raised too far or the temperature of the sparge water was too high &gt;77C then there is a chance these tea like flavours came from the mash not your hop additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a chance they are from from the hops, or potentially part from mash and part from the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See these for further reading on the subject:&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/tannins-mash/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beerandwinejournal.com/tannins-mash/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/tannins-in-the-boil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beerandwinejournal.com/tannins-in-the-boil/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a green/grassy/herbal tea flavour then these will likely mellow and change over time. Leave it about a month in bottles and these flavours will often mellow and balance themselves out into a well rounded mature beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T21:21:14.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11216" CreationDate="2015-05-14T03:50:28.927" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't you smell the alcohol, I'm having the same problem. Using a five gallon bucket with 2 gallons of mash. I can here it bubbling, and smell the alcohol(I think!!) But airlock isn't really moving its been 2 days, and I didn't know you weren't supposed to take off the lid!!! Ive opened and stirred it 2-3 times now.  Any thoughts???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12190" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T03:50:28.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15314" CreationDate="2015-05-14T12:42:35.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My concern would be that if you're going to construct this in a way to circulate the cool air, you will also be circulating the warm air. I don't see how you'd be able to make two zones that share cooling (or heating) elements that can remain effectively independent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you could construct it a little like a refrigerator. Plan on chamber 1 always being colder, and sharing cold air with chamber 2. But that would run into problems if you needed raise the temperature in chamber 1. I would definitely not build the chamber to share a heater or cooler, unless I planned on keeping the chambers the same, or nearly the same temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the controllers, I think that could work. I'd wonder what would happen if the controllers requested contradictory temp changes though. A lot would come down to your construction again and how the chambers share hot and cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T12:42:35.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15314" CreationDate="2015-05-14T13:54:52.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although it would be wasteful of electricity, you could have two temperature zones in a single freezer with the higher temperature confined to a single carboy and the lower temperature dominating the remainder of the refrigerated space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put one controller on the freezer's plug and place its temperature probe on one side of the chest's interior.  Set this controller to your lower temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the other controller on the plug for a carboy heater belt and wrap the belt around the carboy you want at the higher temperature.  Set that controller to the higher temperature and put its probe inside the carboy, near the center of the wort.  Wrap the carboy and belt in a fire-retardant blanket to insulate them, keeping as much of the belt's heat inside the carboy as possible.  Put that carboy, belt, insulation and all in the freezer, as far from the other controller's temperature probe as possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put your cold-loving wort in one or more carboys and place them in remaining empty space in your freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, the freezer will attain the colder temperature which will chill all of the contained wort, including the contents of the belted carboy.  The probe in the belted carboy will detect the undesirably low temperature and turn on the belt to heat the carboy.  A little of that heat will escape the insulation and reach the colder probe, causing it to turn on the freezer to lower the undesirably warm temperature.  A tug of war would proceed from there, wasting electricity, but keeping both sections of the freezers at or near their desired temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T13:54:52.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12423" CreationDate="2015-05-14T17:26:13.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go by Maryland Homebrew in Columbia and ask there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T17:26:13.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2015-05-14T17:31:50.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Herb Tarlek is right... there are tons of youTube channels and Northern Brewer's stuff is good.  As to the matter of overcarbing some bottles and undercarbing others in the same batch: here's how to solve that... take 2 cups of water and add your priming sugar to it.  Bring it to a boil and hold it there until the sugar is fully dissolved.  Pour that into your bottling bucket.  Rack your beer on top of it.  Bottle your beer.  Wait 2 weeks.  Easy Peasy. Do NOT use those sugar drops or try measuring out the right amount of priming sugar in each bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T17:31:50.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15343" CreationDate="2015-05-14T19:58:48.830" Score="1" ViewCount="3152" Body="&lt;p&gt;When adding sulfites to a wine, mead, or cider prior to bottling for oxidation prevention, how long should you wait after adding the sulfites before transferring to bottles? Is there a set amount of time, or are you pretty much good to go immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, this is not a question about stabilizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T22:33:57.823" Title="How long to wait to bottle after adding sulfites?" Tags="|bottling|oxidation|potassium-meta-bisulfite|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14595" CreationDate="2015-05-15T16:07:47.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For fermenting, I just remove the gas-in keg post, fit a 1/2&quot; hose onto the screw fitting, clamp it, and stick the other end of the hose in a glass filled with starsan.  When fermentation's done, I replace the gas-in post and push to another (purged) keg.  My fermentation keg's dip tube is a couple inches shorter than a regular one - that's how I avoid transferring most of the gunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do it all in one keg...follow the above, BUT: when primary fermentation is complete, add your priming sugar syrup, disconnect the blowoff tube, and replace your keg lid with one to which you've specially installed a spunding valve.  Set your spunding valve pressure limit as desired (remember 2-2.5 volumes of CO2 at room temperature is much higher pressure than at serving temperature) and let the yeast do their thing again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a week or two, refrigerate the keg, attach your liquid-out post, and serve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12194" LastEditorUserId="12194" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T16:25:43.750" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T16:25:43.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14595" CreationDate="2015-05-15T17:16:06.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Picobrew Zymatic and tried following their instructions for the first few brews.  The results were rather disappointing.  Since I know the people at Picobrew, I talked to them about it.  It seems that the method is a kinda beginner's least possible effort method, rather than something they specifically recommend or that anyone there does.  I went back to fermenting in buckets after brewing in the Zymatic and got much better results.  So the bottom line is that you can certainly do what you propose, but you'll likely get better results if you don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T17:16:06.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25647" CreationDate="2015-05-15T21:56:27.463" Score="1" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are having a really hard time finding a truly airtight bin large enough to keep at least 50 lbs of bulk grain in. Does anyone have any suggestions? We keep our grains in the shed and want to keep out mice and bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastEditorUserId="8127" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T18:30:32.397" LastActivityDate="2021-08-04T19:35:05.567" Title="airtight bin for bulk grain" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15337" CreationDate="2015-05-16T05:55:01.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2015/04/storage-options-base-grain-specialty-grain-and-dme-buckets-and-gamma-seal-lids-on-sale.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrew Finds has a nice roundup of all the options&lt;/a&gt;.  I use food-grade 5 gallon pails and Gamma lids that I got from Menards (the cheapest way to go that route, if you have a Menards nearby), and I've never had problems with bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T05:55:01.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15340" CreationDate="2015-05-16T15:06:56.813" Score="0" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;When preparing to bottle a cerveza style beer (from a kit), I moved my beer into the primary fermenter so that I could mix in some sugary water before bottling to make my beer bubbly. The beer had been especially cloudy since it was in the primary fermenter but had cleared significantly. As I siphoned my beer I noticed clumps rising to the surface, falling down, and disintegrating into the beer. Overall the beer is getting super cloudy again. I did mange to eliminate some sediment at the bottom but I feel that it is not up to my regular standards. Should I go ahead and bottle or let it settle once again before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I wonder what could cause this. I believe I had left the beer in the secondary fermenter for a full 3 weeks, often I procrastinate/ am too busy to go ahead and i leave it longer but I understand 3 weeks in the secondary should be sufficient. Am I right on that? Is this something to do with Cervezas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12197" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T16:29:44.233" Title="Beer gets mixed up when siphoning into container just before bottling" Tags="|bottling|sediment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15339" CreationDate="2015-05-16T15:23:27.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you already mixed in the sugar? If so, you'll want to bottle it now before fermentation begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also observed clumps of yeast rising from the bottom of the fermenter when racking, but I have no explanation of why this happens. I think you're fine to bottle it as is. The beer will clarify in the bottle, if left long enough, and the yeast will form a compact mass at the bottom of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T15:23:27.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9968" CreationDate="2015-05-16T22:28:39.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used champagne yeast to make an ale but never alone, I have added it to very strong high ABV brews to dry them out at the end of the fermentation. If you want an ale flavour then use a standard ale yeast for the first week or 2 then add in the champagne yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the yeast based flavours are made in the first 3-4 days of your brew, so the main flavour profile you want choose that yeast for the first days. But, be warned that some yeasts may clear up the flavour compounds created by others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, where an ale yeast may slow down at 8-9% and die off at 10-11% the champagne will keep fermenting to 14-17% so if you want a potent and dry barley wine than it may be for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T22:28:39.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15337" CreationDate="2015-05-16T22:30:57.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used old 5gal plastic fermentation bins, with some gaffer tape over the airlock hole. This has worked well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T22:30:57.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15334" CreationDate="2015-05-16T22:33:57.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add the campden tablets and once they have dissolved you are good to go with your bottling. For further reading: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eckraus.com/blog/add-campden-tablets-to-wine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.eckraus.com/blog/add-campden-tablets-to-wine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T22:33:57.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15317" CreationDate="2015-05-16T22:41:13.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take a couple of hops and rub them between your fingers what aromas do you get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting punchy vibrant aromas then these should be in your beer, may be split your aroma additions 50/50 between a 15 min addition and your 5 min addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting very little at this point then get new hops for aroma additions, and check these in the same way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add 100g of aromaless hops at 5 min and achieve very little where as 20g of pungent fresh citra should be adding a noticable citrus punch to a 5gal/23l batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T22:41:13.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15288" CreationDate="2015-05-16T22:50:07.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The open fermenter may ferment cooler due to the insulation of a lid, just as a pan with a lid on boils faster, but I can see the difference being huge. that is all things being equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One difference that could potentially affect things regarding temperature would be the availability of dissolved oxygen, with more O2 available the yeast should be able to replicate faster and metabolise faster generating more heat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The partial pressure of CO2 will be lower in an open fermenter and that of O2 higher vs a closed fermenter but not sure this will affect the temp. This can aid yeast in the first few days to establish a healthy fermentation as O2 is required to build properly functioning cell walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to mention is many traditional open fermenters are shallow and have a large surface area that would allow more efficient natural cooling than the modern cylindroconical stainless fermenters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T22:50:07.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15173" CreationDate="2015-05-16T22:54:41.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This article may hold the answers you seek: &lt;a href=&quot;https://winemakermag.com/1254-soapy-wines-vintage-dates-wine-wizard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://winemakermag.com/1254-soapy-wines-vintage-dates-wine-wizard&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;...I suspect you’ve got a fatty acid issue caused by your stuck/sluggish fermentation. S. cerevisiae can emit fatty acids when under fermentative stress...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stuck fermentations can be caused by a lack of dissolved oxygen in the first few days of the fermentation. When you add your wine to your fermenter give it a good shake to help dissolve some oxygen and get a healthy start for your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T22:54:41.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15337" CreationDate="2015-05-17T01:34:13.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;5-6 gal buckets w/lids work great.  I saw some large ZipLoc bins at WalMart this morning.  The were advertised as weather tight.  Almost bought one myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12199" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T01:34:13.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15349" CreationDate="2015-05-17T15:07:56.767" Score="1" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll be bottling my first batch of beer next week. I'm curious about the logistics of this given the equipment I have. The 5 g batch is currently in the primary fermentation bucket. I planned to skip the secondary fermentation in a carboy due to all the advise I've read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I mix in the priming sugar on bottling day? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I rack the beer out of the primary into small bottling bucket I have (only about 2 gallons in size). Once in the small bottling bucket I could mix in the reduced amount of priming sugar. Then repeat this a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do I rack to a larger 5 g bucket/carboy with no spigot, and mix in the priming sugar at at once. Then just siphon out into the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or I could mix the sugar directly into the primary, which seems like it would end up mixing in a lot of the sediment at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12200" LastEditorUserId="12200" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T15:13:40.093" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T06:35:24.017" Title="Beer bottling procedures (first timer)" Tags="|bottling|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15348" CreationDate="2015-05-17T15:46:25.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Or do I rack to a larger 5 g bucket/carboy with no spigot, and mix in the priming sugar at at once. Then just siphon out into the bottles.&quot;  Given the equipment that you have and your objectives, this is the best option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T15:46:25.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-17T16:18:58.473" Score="0" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I think my liquid yeast was not viable yet pitched it unknowingly and now no fermentation happening-can I introduce new yeast or trash the batch ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12201" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T16:49:47.373" Title="Yeast not viable?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15350" CreationDate="2015-05-17T16:27:14.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, there is no problem pitching additional yeast. How long has it been since you pitched the yeast and what was the expiration date on the package. If yeast gets near the expiration date a lot of the yeast cells have died off and it may take longer for you to see actual fermentation activity, sometimes up to 18 - 24 hours. The yeast may be actively reproducing during that time but you would not see any signs of fermentation. I always suggest making a yeast starter so you know you are pitching an active culture and the proper amount of yeast cells for the beer you are making.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.easternshoresbrewing.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;t&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12157" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T16:27:14.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15350" CreationDate="2015-05-17T16:49:47.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Feel free to add more yeast, it won't hurt. If you add a different strain of yeast it may affect the final flavour profile. It usually takes about a day for the initial signs of fermentation to appear if you haven't made a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only trash the batch if you are certain it has become contaminated, this would only become apparent after a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would always suggest making a starter with any yeast you have old or not, dry or liquid. This ensures that the yeast you pitch is healthy and ready to convert all your wart into delicious beer. Here is a little intro: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMhFerNTwbQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMhFerNTwbQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T16:49:47.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15062" CreationDate="2015-05-17T16:52:18.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want a crystal clear finish then unfortunately you will have to add more finings and rack again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T16:52:18.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2015-05-17T17:10:21.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said already youtube has  a mass of informative videos but filtering them can be tricky. Herb Tarlek is right Northern Brewer is a good place to start and this video in particular is a good starter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Northern brewer Starter 101: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaDQ6S6p6Wk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaDQ6S6p6Wk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more general brewing information and tutorials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer Geek Nation: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpACreb1E23Z3anMUkHi0qg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpACreb1E23Z3anMUkHi0qg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Northern Brewer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/NorthernBrewerTV&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/user/NorthernBrewerTV&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some good podacsts out there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brew Bubba's: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewbubbas.com/site/brew_bubbas_radio/brew_bubbas_radio.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewbubbas.com/site/brew_bubbas_radio/brew_bubbas_radio.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic Brewing Radio: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T17:10:21.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3447" CreationDate="2015-05-17T18:29:45.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My personal experience is that the best way to de-chlorinate water is by stripping with fresh air .In the proposed arrangement, water shall flow from the top of the stripper vessel equipped with  06 sieve trays while pressurized air would be blown from the bottom. At the top a vent should be available to vent Cl2 and air.By this method we can de-chlorinate as well as oxygenate our portable and for fish and other use.       &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12202" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T18:29:45.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15348" CreationDate="2015-05-17T18:52:43.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be advisable not to try to mix the sugar multiple times in the 2 gallon bottling bucket because you will end up with slightly different results for the three times you bottled out of that bucket. I think you would be best off putting the brew in the 5 gallon carboy with the priming sugar, and then siphon into the bottling bucket, that way you can use the spigot to fill your bottles since that will be much easier than just directly siphoning into the bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11892" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T18:52:43.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15362" CreationDate="2015-05-18T10:15:18.107" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;Planning a new extract brew. I'm normally one to wing the quantities a bit but as I'm attempting a higher-than-average ABV this time round I've put together a recipe using the Brewers' Friend recipe calculator. I know it's not 100% accurate but in terms of making sure I have enough fermentables and bittering hops it's certainly better than me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe is as follows:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;23L batch. 10L boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5kg light liquid malt extract&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bittering:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100g Apollo hops - 60min boil - 19% AA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flavouring&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;75g Dr Rudi hops - 30min boil - 11.7% AA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;25g El Dorado hops - 30min boil - 14.1% AA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aroma&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;25g Dr Rudi hops - 15min boil - 11.7% AA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;75g El Dorado hops - 15min boil - 14.1% AA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will be fermenting with Safbrew S-33 yeast (for high(er) ABV beers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Predicted properties&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original Gravity: 1.063. Final Gravity: 1.012. ABV: 6.75%. IBU: 150.84.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my limited brewing experience, 300g of hops seems a lot. How trustworthy is this recipe builder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another side question - would using bottle mineral water have a noticeable impact on the flavour of the final product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T21:21:08.593" Title="My ingredient quantities seem a bit off" Tags="|hops|ingredients|ibu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15363" CreationDate="2015-05-18T10:30:28.947" Score="3" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a first timer from India and literally nothing for beer home brewing is available locally.&#xA;I'm having a hard time finding airlock, siphon tube , bottle capper etc. Please bear with me if its a stupid question. I've searched almost every other place&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11975" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T22:35:17.937" Title="What are the other good santizers when StarSan is not available?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15361" CreationDate="2015-05-18T11:55:10.790" Score="0" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a senior student, experimenting on alcohol concentration of wine using different variables. My variables are white wine yeast and brewing yeast and whilst I know the main role, I would like to delve deeper and know the chemistry behind it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12205" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T20:16:37.450" Title="What is the specific role of yeast in wine making?" Tags="|yeast|wine|yeast-starters|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-05-26T23:24:05.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15357" CreationDate="2015-05-18T12:34:11.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to evaluate beer bitterness is through the IBU/OG ratio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case that would be 151/63=2.396. Now this is hugely bitter! I don't know which style of beer you are trying to brew, but to take some guidelines, the Imperial IPA style (taken as an example of extreme bitterness) should have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/stylecenter.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;following parameters&lt;/a&gt;: OG: 1.070-1.090 IBU: 60-120. This gives an average IBU/OG ratio of 1.125. &#xA;So you should drastically reduce the amount of hops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quantity you need depends on the style you are trying to brew, so specifying this could help giving you a more precise answer. However, you most likely do not want to go above a 1 IBU/OG ratio, so I think you can safely use only half of your planed recipe... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9616" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T14:05:16.420" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T14:05:16.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15359" CreationDate="2015-05-18T14:11:03.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is possibly far too broad for the scope of this site, but I'll do my best to point you in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than consuming sugar and excreting alcohol, yeast's abilities vary strain-to-strain (and sometimes even by brand). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lallemandwine.com/products/catalogue/product-detail/?range=9&amp;amp;id=76&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lalvin 71B&lt;/a&gt;, for example, is known for its ability to consume malic acid. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lallemandwine.com/products/catalogue/product-detail/?range=9&amp;amp;id=20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EC-1118&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lallemandwine.com/products/catalogue/product-detail/?range=9&amp;amp;id=53&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;K1V-1116/ICV K1&lt;/a&gt; are great for dominating other strains and restarting stuck fermentations. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=128&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast 1388&lt;/a&gt; is a Belgian strong ale yeast &lt;a href=&quot;https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/ale-yeast-experiment-belgian-bomm-one-month-mead/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;that apparently consumes honey like it's its job&lt;/a&gt;. Meanwhile, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp001-california-ale-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast&lt;/a&gt; remains relatively neutral, and can be used for a wide variety of beers, meads, and ciders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a better idea of what I mean, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winebusiness.com/content/File/wbm_Aug2006_yeast_chart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;check out this PDF from &lt;em&gt;Wine Business&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; about choosing a yeast for chardonnay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winebusiness.com/content/File/wbm_Aug2006_yeast_chart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.winebusiness.com/content/File/wbm_Aug2006_yeast_chart.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It lists 39 yeast strains from 11 manufacturers (16 brands) that can be used for making chardonnay, and the different properties they impart on the final product. If you wanted something ester-heavy, for example, you might choose Red Star's Côte de Blanc. If you were unable to regulate temperature and needed something resistant to cold and heat, you could choose Lalvin's EC-1118 and K1V-1116. Those two are also very alcohol tolerant, and can easily make it up to the 18%-20% range through step-feeding fermentables along with a good nutrient schedule and pH management.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested in the specific biology or chemistry of it (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uark.edu/depts/ifse/grapeprog/articles/ajev58-3-2w.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; a yeast eat malic acid, anyway?&lt;/a&gt;), the best place to start is on a particular manufacturer's website. Once you have an idea of what you're looking for, you can find hundreds of studies across the web looking at specific properties in depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lallemandwine.com/products/catalogue/?range=11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lallemand (Lalvin yeasts)&lt;/a&gt; (note, I had to change the country to &quot;Autralia &amp;amp; New Zealand&quot; to access the yeast catalog)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast Laboratories&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting side note, the abstract on that malic acid pdf I linked noted that Lalvin 71B consumed 33% of the malic acid in their test &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; the help of malolactic bacteria, while keeping SO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; production to a minimum. The bacteria converted 100%, sure, but the yeast was still very impressive on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastEditorUserId="8203" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T20:16:37.450" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T20:16:37.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15357" CreationDate="2015-05-18T21:21:08.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Liquid extract has about 36 ppg or points/pound/gal.  That means that one lb. of LME in one gal. of water gives you an OG of 1.036.  You have 5 kg or about 11 lb.  Multiply that by 36 and you have a total of 396 gravity points.  Divide that 5.5 (gal., roughly 23 L) and you get 72, so your OG would be 1.072.  Because you're doing a concentrated boil, your hop utilization will be reduced, but that's still a damn bitter beer.  The Brewer's Friend calculator is generally very accurate.  As a rough guess, becasue of the concentrated boil, I'd guess you'll come out around 100-125 IBU.  still insanely bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T21:21:08.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15358" CreationDate="2015-05-18T22:35:17.937" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed for years without starsan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bleach, as mentioned in the above link, is good for fermenters and&lt;br&gt;&#xA;bottles. Extra contact time (a few hours if possible) doesn't hurt.&#xA;Keep away from metals, especially copper. Rinse away with boiled&#xA;water. High concentrations are still my favorite for dissolving a mold colony in a hurry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boiling: good for small items for 15-30. Some plastics will discolor&#xA;or distort, but heat always works. Bottle caps might not like being boiled too long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Baking: For years my bottle sanitation method was to put rinsed &amp;amp;&#xA;dried bottles in the oven at ~250F for an hour or so. Never had a&#xA;problem. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alcohol: if you can get cheap vodka or dentaured alcohol, 50-90% does a great job and quickly. May damage some plastics, especially rigid plastic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Peroxyacetic acid is becoming more popular for hospital &amp;amp; food sanitation, and may be available in your area. Fast &amp;amp; effective, but may damage metals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T22:35:17.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15366" CreationDate="2015-05-19T06:12:53.623" Score="0" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my first all grain beer on Sunday; everything went well barring one leaky tap and a slight blockage on the tap in my kettle due to a poor hop filter. It is supposed be an IPA style beer using all Maris otte pale malt with Columbus, citra and pioneer hops. The yeast I used was danstar nottingham. OG was 1055&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in an apartment in the UK and struggle to drop the temp below 24 celcius (75F). Because I know the optimum temp for nottingham is below 21C (70F) I added a wet T-shirt over the beer to keep it cool. When I did my first gravity check after the first day (fermentation looked very vigorous) I found that the temp was still up at 24C and the gravity has already dropped to 1019! Since then I have dropped it into a nice bath with the wet shirt wicking up the water but I'm worried that I'll get a huge number of bad flavours and 'hotness' from all of the fusel alcohols etc associated with hot fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to counteract this? I understand that time fixes these problems but I was hoping to have a good idea of how this recipe works so I can refine it in my next brew, if I can't taste it properly I might have to wing the next brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to dry hop and wondered if this would remove any of the nastiness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the beer I am brewing is so floraly and citrusy a lot of the mango etc off flavours mith actually be useful, it's mainly the hotness I want to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in terms of moving forward, I am going to struggle to maintain the temperature with any brew that I do due to lack of space for a chest freezer. Because of this I will probably try to move on to darker beers in the future. Can you guys recomend any Yeats strains that work nicely at higher temperatures that would work for a red ale?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jacob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12206" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T10:00:08.727" Title="How will this beer turn out?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15348" CreationDate="2015-05-19T06:27:53.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding the priming sugar to the primary and rousing it gently should be ok as long as the yeast is finished and has clumped together. It should settle back out within a few hours. I know when my local pub did a brewing course this was how the guy running it did his. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course in order to get maximum clarity moving it over to a secondary would be better but if you are desperate to keep everything in the primary this might work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you should probably use a priming sugar solution rather than just adding sugar directly, that will give you a better distribution of sugar and reduce the mixing required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess this does depend on the flocculation of the yeast you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jacob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12206" LastEditorUserId="12206" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T06:35:24.017" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T06:35:24.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15364" CreationDate="2015-05-19T07:10:23.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that the ferment is already more than half finished, so there already some bonus flavors in your beer. I found some people saying 72F is fine, 75F is a little estery, 80F is really too warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to cool the ferment a little more in the later stages, it might help, but this yeast might finish up by tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, try other strains, some saison strains can go much warmer. Dark vs light recipes don't really matter, it's the yeast that determines the best temperature for the style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&#xA;Denny is right about Belgian strains being good at warm temps, I should have remembered the belgian banana bomb I made once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T10:00:08.727" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T10:00:08.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15368" CreationDate="2015-05-19T10:31:12.610" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make my first batch within the next couple of days and was checking what all thing i should not OVERDO (like bleach sanitation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should i be careful before i cap my bottle (i don't want it to explode) ?? i was guessing most of you ll have something from experience which i'll mostly not give much attention . Thanks in advance  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11975" LastEditorUserId="11975" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T10:47:00.830" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T15:05:35.507" Title="What are the simple things i should be careful about (like bleach) for my first time brewing?" Tags="|beer|equipment|first-time-brewer|first-time|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15367" CreationDate="2015-05-19T15:17:46.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation temperature is often overlooked and it's really the key to making good beer. If you don't control the temp, everything else you do doesn't really matter.  I prefer most beers to ferment in the 63-65F range. Whatever you do, don't let the beer get over 70F.  That's beer temp, not room temp.  Due to the heat created during fermentation, the beer can be as much as 10F hotter than the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T15:17:46.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15370" CreationDate="2015-05-19T18:29:04.667" Score="2" ViewCount="1056" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a coopers english bitter kit but let it ferment for 3 weeks in the FV and then bottled it. Its been in the bottle 2 weeks at 20 degrees C yet still feels flat. When I poured it there were a lot of bubbles on the side of the glass, but I couldn't get a head on the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do? As I have another 45 bottles &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a new type of bottle but ensured I had done them correctly as in my last batch I had a couple of flat ones due to the lids not being done up tight enough. The last batch was ready within 4 weeks, although only spent 1 week in the FV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ua2R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Coopers Bitter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11987" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T07:01:05.180" Title="Bitter still flat after 2 weeks of bottle conditioning" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15369" CreationDate="2015-05-19T19:48:49.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give it some time. I had a stout take about a month before there was a decent head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T19:48:49.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15367" CreationDate="2015-05-19T23:32:41.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you sanitize everything.  Make sure you aerate your wort properly before pitching your yeast.  Make sure you've got an air tight seal on your FV along with suitable blow off.  As Denny said, try to control your fermentation temp.  And be patient when it's fermenting.  Don't open the vessel, don't shake it.  Just relax and let it happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12176" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T23:32:41.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-20T00:28:30.150" Score="0" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed an Imperial Red. It clocked in at around 1.072 on original gravity reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My malt bill looked something like this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12 lbs 5.0 oz   Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;11 lbs Marris Otter (2.0 SRM)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2 lbs 9.6 oz    Caraamber (30.0 SRM)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 lbs 15.1 oz   Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 lbs 15.1 oz   Munich Malt (9.0 SRM)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 lbs 15.1 oz   Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 lbs 11.8 oz   Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;11.2 oz Special B Malt (180.0 SRM)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeastex and Whirfloc at the recommended dosages for good measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I performed a 65 minute single mash. I mashed in at around 165 F and the mash rest occurred at around 155 F. I was able to extract nearly 5 gallons of wort. I batch sparged at 178 F, and the batch rest occurred for about 15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boil was 60 minutes with a very healthy hop schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I copper coil chilled to about 78 F before pitching two vials of White Labs California Ale yeast. No starter. The first phase of fermentation occurred the way it usually does. There was a nice bubble in the airlock, with a solid couple inches of trub. 17 days have passed. I checked the gravity for the first time and the hydrometer measured 1.040. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has me a bit concerned. I am still fairly novice to the all-grain game. I know but am not certain that big Crystal malts carry a lot of complex sugars that take the yeast extended periods of time to act on (Disachharides?). Did I mash too hot? Did I use too much Crystal? Why are the yeast responding so poorly to what would otherwise be considered a healthy brew? I am worried that the FG won't sink below 1.030 (this happened a month ago with a slightly different recipe). Would it be heinous to boil up some belgian candy and introduce it to the fermenting device to get the gravity low enough to bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for all your advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8160" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T10:24:12.107" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T10:42:28.753" Title="What's wrong with my gravity?" Tags="|fermentation|original-gravity|final-gravity|high-gravity|red-ale|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15372" CreationDate="2015-05-20T02:49:03.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this a 10 gallon batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crystal malts are only around 10% of the grist, so I don't think you have a problem there. I would consider 78 F too warm for pitching WLP001, but I doubt that's your problem either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the fermentation has slowed down because you under pitched and presumably didn't oxygenate the wort. Each White Labs vial would have between 75 and 150 billion cells. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr. Malty&lt;/a&gt; you closer to 500 which you can get from 2 vials in a 6 litre starter. Oxygenating the wort just before pitching the yeast helps the yeast replicate, and is good for a healthy fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is to get another vial of WLP001, build up a good sized starter and pitch it while it's actively fermenting. Don't oxygenate the beer now, it will just promote staling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T02:49:03.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-20T10:17:46.820" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;Senior chemistry student, whilst I know the main reason, I would like to know more of the chemistry behind it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12205" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T14:48:27.627" Title="Why is the primary stage of fermentation of wine important?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|wine|primary-fermentation|red-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15372" CreationDate="2015-05-20T11:00:06.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put this into the calculator at Brewer's Friend (approximately, what with 1lbs. 15.1oz anyway?) and got an OG of 1.092 and FG of 1.024.*  So maybe you you should ask why you missed the OG.** &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marris Otter is not overflowing with enzymes like most 2-row is, so your mash is more sensitive to small mistakes. And your mash temp is on the upper edge for beta-amylase activity. If some of the mash was actually warmer (not stirred enough or thermometer needs calibration) then you could have made a very dextrinous, but not so fermentable, wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it taste sweet? Are you able to run a starch test on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throw some yeast at it, as Tobias recommended. If it doesn't help much, then it's just an unfermentable wort. Great place for some brettanomyces!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Using 75% efficiency, and 10 gallon batch. This calculator works off an assumed efficiency. Even though you can enter a mash temp, that entry does not affect the calculated gravity.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;**Really, what's the batch size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T11:00:06.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15378" CreationDate="2015-05-20T17:25:16.350" Score="1" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a quick question. I've been looking for an answer, but didn't find a clear answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm making an IPA. Right now the air temperature in my closet where I keep the carboy is 67-68F. This is what I should have according to the yeast profile. However, the fermometer (tape on the carboy) reads at 72F. That is understandable, because yeast are doing their work like crazy, which increases the temperature of the wort... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be worried? Should I move my carboy to a keezer (with temp control) and force the temperature of the wort to get down to 67-68F by lowering the environment temperature to 60-62F?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T18:07:21.310" Title="Fermentation Temperature" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|temperature|temperature-control|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15377" CreationDate="2015-05-20T18:07:21.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little worried, perhaps, but regardless you should attempt to keep the yeast/beer itself in the yeast's ideal temperature range. If you have a temp controller, then look into getting some sort of &quot;thermowell&quot; to put the temp controller's sensor in the middle of the fermentor itself, but taping (and insulting) the probe against the side of the fermentor will work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What yeast are you using? Some strains like (or require) higher temps. Assuming you're using US-05/WY1056/WLP001 … it doesn't like to be underpitched or ferment much over 70°F or it will throw both fusels and diacetyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T18:07:21.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15379" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-20T19:42:53.563" Score="2" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed an IPA intended to blow my hop socks off and missed my target OG by 20 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DETAILS:&#xA;Built this recipe in BeerSmith with an intended OG of 1.070 and IBU projected at 156. I pitched a 1000 ml starter of 001 right at the peak of action and my 4+ gallons are fermenting to the point my fermentation chamber cant stop it from climbing above 71, I like to ferment my IPA at 64 and havent had a problem keeping it close to that in the past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;QUESTION:&#xA;It's been 3 days and the temp looks like it has peaked, if I brew a one gallon batch and top it off at this point will the yeast still be able to clean up the warm fermentation flavors? Is there something else I should be concerned about when trying this? has anyone had experience with this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="2295" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T09:21:02.663" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T11:49:09.337" Title="Blending beer DURING fermentation, in the hopes to get beer back in balance with hops" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15379" CreationDate="2015-05-20T20:13:54.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;WLP001 that ferments warm has a tendency to throw diacetyl and fusel alcohols. The former will be &quot;cleaned up&quot; by the yeast already in the beer, the latter won't be cleaned up by anything … it will only be diluted by the extra gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, I don't think it will particularly harm your beer to add ~1gl of simlar wort at this point. But I don't think it'll help much either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T20:13:54.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15369" CreationDate="2015-05-20T23:36:26.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Head retention has many factors. was your glass clean or had some residue on it? was there left over soap or oil in the fermenters? (didnt rinse well enough) protein content hops, and recipe play a big part too....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but the real question is how does it taste? if it tastes fine then i wouldnt worry about the head. On my irish red ale, it did not have any head retention at all but tasted fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T23:36:26.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15385" CreationDate="2015-05-21T02:50:08.100" Score="3" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often read about ramping up the temperature to increase yeast activity and attenuation towards the end of fermentation. I used to have some really funky tasting brews before I started strict temperature control throughout my entire fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a general rule that after x gravity/hours the yeast have generated most of the flavours that a brew will have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T21:14:37.367" Title="At what point in fermentation does temperature no longer influence flavour?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|flavor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15383" CreationDate="2015-05-21T15:08:36.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that there will be a time where fermentation is still ongoing, but that there will be no off flavors generated. As I understand it, what's going on when a brewer raises the temperature for a time during fermentation, they are allowing for the generation of some off flavors. It will either fit the style of the beer, or if enough of the fermentation is already complete, then any undesirable flavors will be muted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the style, the yeast, and your recipe there probably is some point where you could raise the temperature without it adversely affecting your beer. I'm not sure exactly where that would be, but you could monitor the progress by examining the gravity and allowing the temperature to rise after some benchmark is reached between your your OG and FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, unless you're making some Belgian or farmhouse style I would probably avoid changes in temperature as much as possible, as the change in flavor would be difficult to predict. It's occasionally necessary to kickstart a stuck fermentation, but I would be reluctant to try it if I didn't think I needed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T15:08:36.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15383" CreationDate="2015-05-21T20:59:34.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, most yeast created flavors will happen in the first 72 hours.  After that (in general) you can start ramping up.  You can also wait 4-5 days to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T20:59:34.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15389" CreationDate="2015-05-21T23:37:54.793" Score="2" ViewCount="1253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to transform a compressor wine fridge into a kegerator. I wanted to know where it would be safe to drill holes, either in the side or the top? There is no freezer section, and the back of the fridge is a snake of coils. Does this tell me anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T02:15:52.233" Title="Is it safe to drill into the side of a fridge?" Tags="|kegerator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15390" CreationDate="2015-05-22T03:07:24.750" Score="1" ViewCount="845" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a natural vanilla extract (vanilla beans, alcohol, and water) to add to my beer at bottling time.  I mixed it along with my carbing sugar and bottled.  When I tried the beer for the first time, there was a heavy &quot;medicinal&quot; taste to it.  (It didn't come from the base beer because I bottled some without the vanilla and it tastes fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to remove the alcohol from an extract prior adding to beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it have been better to add the extract to the boil? (I was hoping to get some vanilla aroma by adding it at bottling)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6300" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T15:33:35.213" Title="How do I remove the medicinal taste of vanilla extract in my beer?" Tags="|bottling|off-flavor|additives|alcohol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-22T03:11:24.317" Score="1" ViewCount="1330" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have a pin lock keg with a leaking static relief valve. The lid looks like this: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XETsd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZM3nt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't figure out how to remove the innards of the relief valve to fix it. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12225" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T16:19:25.553" Title="How to remove/service static relief valve on a pin lock keg?" Tags="|equipment|corny-keg|pressure|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15386" CreationDate="2015-05-22T11:53:47.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every fridge is different, so you cannot tell just by what fridge it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get an idea as to where the coolant lines are by using a paste made from mixing some cornflour with alcohol and coating the sides when the fridge is off. Then start the fridge and watch where the paste starts to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even once you think it's safe, it is best to slowly dig out the insulation with a screwdriver, so that it is obvious if you hit a coolant line, rather than just drilling straight through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11868" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T11:53:47.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15387" CreationDate="2015-05-22T14:56:36.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;More likely than not, your issue is with Phenolic and not Vanilla Extract (although, I would just use beans for brewing).  Brad Smith has an excellent write up on that: &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/06/19/phenolics-and-tannins-in-home-brewed-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phenolics and Tannins in Home Brewed Beer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be caused by Chloromines in your water (toss a campden tablet in your strike water), wild yeasts (sanitation issues) or mashing at too high of a temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-28T15:33:35.213" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T15:33:35.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15367" CreationDate="2015-05-22T15:05:35.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing... don't use bleach!  At your local brew shop, you'll find a product called StarSan.  It's probably the most popular product for sanitizing stuff, for a very good reason.  It works and it's easy to use.  You won't have a Clorox smell to deal with and bleach can be a pain to rinse out completely and is disastrous to your stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, sanitize everything that will go anywhere near your beer.  All of the utensils, fermenmter, siphon, tubing, and everything else that the liquid will touch post boil.  I even use it in my airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T15:05:35.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15383" CreationDate="2015-05-22T21:14:37.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It also doesn't hurt to start low, leave for a couple of days, increase, leave for a couple of days, etc. I usually don't increase it once I see krausen until the krausen starts to fall, but mosts ale yeasts say 65-75, but will ferment nice and clean down at ~60. This varies by yeast, but never hurts to start a bit low. Also, raising the temp a couple of degrees a day once gravity hits 1.02x will help it finish off and ensure a rest (especially if initial fermentation was very low, like 50s). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T21:14:37.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15397" CreationDate="2015-05-22T21:16:54.513" Score="0" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;community! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently found that my calculations of IBUs are not always accurate... Especially when I was making a Braggot. Maybe someone can help me out with the formula or something? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a 5 gallon batch of IPA braggot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I boiled 2.5 gallons of extract with a extract method (3lbs of extract, 12oz stepping grains, Hops at 60, 30, 15 and 1 mins). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end I blended it with a 2.5 gallons of mead must making total 5 gallons with OG=1.072. Not bad for an IPA. However, I'm not sure if it will be bitter enough...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here's a two batches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1.   V = 2.5g,  OG = 1.048,  IBU = 158.&#xA;2.   V = 2.5g,  OG = 1.101,  IBU = 0.&#xA;-------------------------------------------&#xA;1+2. V = 5g,    OG = 1.072,  IBU = ? &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would the IBU be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. Fermentation was complete yesterday at 1.014. I will dry-hop it with 3 oz of something citrusy and floral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-05-24T04:03:30.620" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T04:03:30.620" Title="IBU calculation for blended worts / braggott" Tags="|extract-brewing|ibu|partial-boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15388" CreationDate="2015-05-23T00:03:16.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/13186/is-this-pressure-release-valve-missing-a-pull-ring&quot;&gt;Is this pressure release valve missing a pull ring?&lt;/a&gt; it looks like you might unscrew it from the bottom. Not enough reputation to post comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T00:03:16.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15386" CreationDate="2015-05-23T02:15:52.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also try Googling the specific model of refrigerator to see if anyone else has tried drilling into it.  Occasionally the service manual is available, too, which might have a coolant routing diagram that will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T02:15:52.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="568" CreationDate="2015-05-23T09:52:12.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;sour dough bread as a boza starter ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12228" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T09:52:12.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15393" CreationDate="2015-05-24T04:03:14.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The alpha acids that give the bitterness from hops reach saturation somewhere around 90 IBUs. Since your hops were not exposed to the whole volume of beer (presumably they were filtered out at the of the boil) you aren't getting the full impact from them. It is reasonable to say that the IPA is actually 90 IBUs (saturation is around 90mg/L). Then divide by two for the addition of unhopped mead, leaving 45.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T04:03:14.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15399" CreationDate="2015-05-25T12:16:11.060" Score="5" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can ring crown (pull off) bottless such as  these: &lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e1/Bottle_cap_special.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;these&quot;&gt; be recapped using a table top or bench bottle capper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Just to be clear, I mean capping the bottle with regular caps like these&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a8/Kronenkorken_01_KMJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;caps&quot;&gt;, not not pull off caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: I finally bought a capper and tried this. It worked!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12232" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.840" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T19:28:47.080" Title="Can ring crown bottles be recapped?" Tags="|bottling|capping|recapping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15398" CreationDate="2015-05-25T22:41:28.153" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give it a try-- fill a bottle with water, put a cap on, flip it upside down, and see if any water drips out.  If the cap makes a watertight seal, then the next time you're bottling fill a couple and see how they work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T22:41:28.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15388" CreationDate="2015-05-26T04:45:47.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just put a tool that fits this square hole and unscrew it counter clockwise (normal thread). A large enough flat screwdriver can be used between 2 corners, to. Inadequate tools could damage the plastic and make things more difficult. Find a good tool before you try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A socket wrench with the &amp;quot;smaller&amp;quot; adapter fits almost perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2022-04-20T16:19:25.553" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T16:19:25.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15398" CreationDate="2015-05-26T10:58:56.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt that it will work. The cap &quot;tears&quot; as you open it. But, as Herb said, give it a try!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T10:58:56.660" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15404" CreationDate="2015-05-26T11:53:40.903" Score="0" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;Out of curiosity, i just wanted to know how a home brew made of bakers yeast , good water(almost sweet) and barley malt taste like . would it be sweet or flat or fizzy or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time , how would it taste or smell like its bad ?Is it safe to drink if its bad ? I would like to know from experiences from most of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11975" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T06:42:28.077" Title="How would the first brew taste like ? If it goes well , and if it doesnt go well?" Tags="|beer|off-flavor|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15369" CreationDate="2015-05-26T14:19:11.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's English beer, which is meant to be flat no?! haha ;) Just pour it with a bit more gusto! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you are getting a good psssssst when opening, you could try storing it cold in a fridge for a week or so to aid the absorption of any CO2 from the head-space of the bottle into your beer :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T14:19:11.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15402" CreationDate="2015-05-26T15:00:57.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically, you can use baker's yeast, but I doubt you'd be as happy as you would by using brewer's yeast.  Both yeasts are Saccharomyces cerevisiae, however, they are different strains of the same species that are bred to do two different jobs.  Baker's yeast has been bred to produce CO2 and cause bread to rise and brewer's yeast has been bred to survive in a high alcohol/high sugar environment and produce alcohol.  That said, it will work, but you'd likely have some off flavors from being outside the temperature window. Most typically this would be DMS which would give you a &quot;corn&quot; taste and smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast that brewers use has been cultivated to convert the sugar into alcohol and not produce any off flavors.  Being new to the homebrew experience, I have concerns that you don't have the equipment to maintain the temperature window for this yeast (heck, I'm not entirely sure what the window is for baker's yeast) or how much to use for a 5 gallon (19 liter) batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you only used yeast (for the sake of argument, we won't worry about what kind), water and malt, your beer would be very sweet.  The proper term for this style is called a Gruit.  You'll need something to bring some bitterness to the table.  Most of us use hops for this.  You'll see recipes with a hop schedule that lists hop additions at 60 minutes (left in the boil) for bittering, 30 minutes for flavoring and 5 minutes for aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also concerned with how you'd plan on fermenting this (based on previous questions).  Remember, beer should be fermented in a closed environment that will allow CO2 gas to escape while preventing Oxygen from entering your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T15:00:57.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15402" CreationDate="2015-05-26T15:22:06.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention hops.  Without those, it will be sickly sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T15:22:06.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15388" CreationDate="2015-05-26T21:26:49.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also just get a new lid.  Several kegging supply sites sell new lids at reasonable prices and you could cut the pressure relief off that one, insert a grommet and now you have a fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T21:26:49.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15402" CreationDate="2015-05-27T06:42:28.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to my experience it will be sweet and fizzy in taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12147" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T06:42:28.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15369" CreationDate="2015-05-27T09:08:26.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are we talking about lack of carbonation or a missing head here? You say it's flat which would mean there is no CO2 but it seems like there is. A beer doesn't taste flat without a head if it has CO2 in it. If your beer doesn't carbonate there is either not enough yeast and/or not enough sugar. What you ca do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn the bottles up-side-down, maybe your yeast dropped out and re-suspension could help&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;just give it time, if there is even the smallest amount of viable yeast and some residual sugars your beer will carbonate but may take a long time to do so&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just missing the head there isn't much you can do to correct it for that batch and it could have been cause by many different things, as jsolarski mentioned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insufficient cleaning (oils left over)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;left over soap (including starsan) in the fermentor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not enough proteins (not very likely)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fusel alcohols (oils) in your fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stressed yeast that produce too much protease (no yeast starter, pH out of range, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3029" LastEditorUserId="3029" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T07:01:05.180" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T07:01:05.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15413" CreationDate="2015-05-27T10:46:05.100" Score="0" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the general consensus on leaving a heat source turned on after fermentation has complete?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm doing an Imperial IPA which should finish fermenting in 4-5 days going by previous experience with the yeast. I'm then going to leave it in the primary for 10-14 days for conditioning and possible dry hopping towards the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it best to leave my brewing mat turned on for the entire period or to turn it off once fermentation has completed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm inclined to say yes... consistent temperature is always a good thing when dealing with yeast. Am I correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastEditorUserId="8335" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T14:29:47.920" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T15:34:37.990" Title="Heating after fermentation?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|temperature|conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15412" CreationDate="2015-05-27T13:06:14.037" Score="0" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan on brewing a wheat beer next and I would like to add in natural flavoring. I have never used flavorings in any previous brews and I have seen some mixed opinions about which stage of fermentation to add the flavoring into. Some sources recommend secondary and others say first, still even some say I should just mix it in with the wort. I want to know if one really has more effectiveness than the other. Which would yield the best result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another note, I was thinking of using blackberry for the flavor and haven't found anything that would indicate that there is anything special I need to do for this, but if any of you have advice it would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12236" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T01:30:26.030" Title="Adding natural flavoring in fermentation" Tags="|flavoring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15411" CreationDate="2015-05-27T14:21:18.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are all options, it's true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pro to adding flavorings to the boil is sanitation and simplicity, the cons being driving off volatile flavor/aroma compounds both during the boil and during fermentation. Plus, boiling certain fruits will affect pectin, haze, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros to adding to secondary include more capture of flavor/aroma. Cons include sanitation and potential difficulty introducing the flavor (ie, large pieces of fruit through a narrow glass carboy neck) or racking (racking cane plugged up with, say, strawberry &quot;seeds&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually clean/cut fruit into appropriately-sized pieces, then freeze, then introduce to secondary for about a week. Sometimes I've dry-&quot;hopped&quot; chilies and spices in a container (nylon stockings, more recently a stainless basket) in keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blackberry in a wheat sounds great. 1 lb / gl is a good starting point, though blackberry is a pretty strong flavor, you might be able to get away with less. I've never done it myself, so I can only guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T21:45:49.303" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T21:45:49.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15410" CreationDate="2015-05-27T15:34:37.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If fermentation has finished and you're certain of that, the beer will benefit from getting it as cold as possible rather than leaving it warm.  Cold crashing, as it's called, will help drop the yeast and leave you with a clearer beer.  In addition, it will provide you with a crisper, cleaner flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T15:34:37.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12859" CreationDate="2015-05-27T22:40:39.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally, would never use any kind of glass carboy for homebrewing. I love spidel plastic fermenters.  I use one for fermenting and one for a secondary. Seen too many horror stories of glass breaking cutting arteries, tendons, and other soft tissue. Just not worth it. Besides there is no taste difference between plastic and glass. Some say there is but my brews are loved by dozens and&#xA;I just don't believe it. On commercial scale for sure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12239" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T22:40:39.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15411" CreationDate="2015-05-28T01:30:26.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to keep it simple so I generally uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easternshoresbrewing.com/fruit-purees-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fruit purees&lt;/a&gt; as they are package sterile. This allows you to add them directly to the secondary without worrying about sanitation. Do sanitize your can opener before using to avoid contaminating the fruit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other nice thing about purees is that you don't have to worry about separation of the fruit pulp or if the fruit will drop out so you can siphon off the lees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding to the secondary seems to be the preferred method and the one I have used with good success. Just remember to transfer from your primary to secondary while your yeast is still active to help prevent a stuck fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12157" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T01:30:26.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14815" CreationDate="2015-05-28T14:30:45.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can order this large a quantity, you can get custom corks in bulk from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.widgetco.com/products/wine-corks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;WidgetCo&quot;&gt;WidgetCo&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.corkstore.com/Products/Wine-Corks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CorkStore&lt;/a&gt; also has different styles of corks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, craft stores will have corks, but you'll have a harder time finding the exact size you want for your bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T14:30:45.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15425" CreationDate="2015-05-28T21:37:25.950" Score="2" ViewCount="877" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm doing a first attempt at a Blackberry Wheat beer, per a request from a co-worker. All seems to be fine and good, however before I went to bottle I tasted it and, not unexpectedly, it is a little tart. I've noticed this before when I've done Hard Ciders or other fruit beers with strong tastes like Raspberries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of racking to another bucket with some Splenda to try and sweeten it up (Splenda is mostly maltodextrine, to my knowledge, so it's not ferment-able), but does anyone have suggestions on how to go about do this? I'd rather not make the mistake of making it 'too' sweet. I was going to try 10 packets for 5 gallons and then rerack again as necessary. Does this sound out of line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12242" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T21:56:14.517" LastActivityDate="2020-06-07T20:29:43.830" Title="Sweetening a tart fruit beer?" Tags="|fruit|sweetness|wheat-beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15419" CreationDate="2015-05-28T23:41:13.877" Score="2" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits in using a carboy for a secondary, rather than just using another 5 gallon bucket? I'm just curious because carboys are a pain in the behind to clean properly, and other than actually being able to see the beer itself, I'm not sure what the benefits are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12242" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T18:41:21.870" Title="Carboy versus 2nd Bucket" Tags="|equipment|secondary-fermentation|carboy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15418" CreationDate="2015-05-28T23:50:59.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than being able to see your beer, as you pointed out, there isn't any benefit and like you noted, the drawback of cleaning a second container. I've brewed gallons and gallons in plastic buckets and don't really see the benefit of transfer to a secondary either. You're exposing your beer not only to nasties, but more oxygen too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I nice cold crash before I bottle or keg clears my beer nicely along with whirlfloc at the end of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T23:50:59.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15418" CreationDate="2015-05-29T02:53:05.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason the carboy is nice, is the top is restricted, like an inverted funnel.  That means that there is less and less space, as you fill towards the top, for oxygen to hang out and oxidize your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12244" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T02:53:05.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15422" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T03:08:20.527" Score="2" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've seen, the 'Better Bottle' carboy is just a PET bottle with a brand name on it.  I read that there are some PET carboys that have a special layer of oxygen impermeable material between the outer and inner layers making them ideal for fermentation.  Are 'Better Bottles' among the PET carboys with this impermeable layer or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T20:21:48.917" Title="Better Bottle carboy vs. generic PET carboy" Tags="|carboy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15417" CreationDate="2015-05-29T06:08:17.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say it's out of line to use artificial sweeteners. Although some people brew to save money, or because beer simply isn't available where they live, most do it to make a quality product free of space-age-technology-ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the sweetening of Splenda is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sucralose&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sucralose&lt;/a&gt;. Despite the company's claims that the chlorine in sucralose is natural they fail to point out that nearly all the natural chlorine in the world is chloride, found in the ocean, etc. You can draw you own &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organochloride&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;conclusions.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a small brew pub near me that seems to use artificial sweeteners, and although it's hard to find any classic faults in the beer,  it just doesn't taste right. In fact, it's pretty awful, very fake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is, serve it like &lt;a href=&quot;http://berlin.citysegwaytours.com/blog/berlins-beers-berliner-weisse/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;berliner weisse&lt;/a&gt;, with syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T06:08:17.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T06:54:57.297" Score="2" ViewCount="1128" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to find tannin powder as there is no wine making supplies in my country. There, I'd rather use raisin as tannin substitute in my wine making process. However, I'm not sure how the conversion of those thing. Anyone could give me some advice? The recipe needs 1/4 tsp of tannin and 1-1/2 tsp of acid blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8325" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T17:53:40.343" Title="How is the conversion of raisin to tannin and acid?" Tags="|wine|ingredients|recipe-scaling|conversion|acidity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15417" CreationDate="2015-05-29T15:54:05.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lactose. It's unfermented by standard brewing yeasts and leaves residual sweetness in the bottle/keg. And it doesn't take much to sweeten a brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To figure out how much you need, mix lactose 1-to-1 by volume with boiling water and siphon off about 4 oz of your beer, then add the sweetener by the mL until it's the sweetness you want. Multiply to your volume, and decrease by about 10% to make sure you don't oversweeten as the fruit flavors and scents diminish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference it took me 4 oz of lactose to sweeten about 4.5 gallons of blueberry wheat. The result was just the faintest hint of sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10730" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T15:54:05.103" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15418" CreationDate="2015-05-29T16:40:54.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The benefits are that if you are lagering your beer for an extended period of time &gt; 2 months, then it is likely that you will not want oxygen slowly permeating the plastic bucket and oxidize your beer. The glass is impermeable to oxygen in a way the bucket is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being glass they tend not to scratch or degenerate over time, just don't drop it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An added extra is they look amazing, but can be awkward unless you get a bendy brush to clean and tend not to have nice handles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T16:40:54.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15424" CreationDate="2015-05-29T16:48:52.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always used black tea stewed for about 30-45 min, and used as my about half of my brewing water, if you want to try with raisins have a look here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.westchesterwinemakers.com/2013/05/31/x-18/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.westchesterwinemakers.com/2013/05/31/x-18/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T16:48:52.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2015-05-30T01:22:31.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make an apricot and raspberry ale and add the fruit right after the boil. I would never have done this but a master brewer at Norther Brewer said that's the way he always does it. His apricot ale has won many 1st-3rd place awards. I changed it up a bit but it now seems perfect. 5lbs at flame out/boil end for a lot of flavor and aroma. 3lbs at flame out if you want less flavor and aroma. The temperature is hot enough to kill all the nasties. It's over 160F and it really works great. The heat really pulls out the flavor and aroma fast plus it kills bacteria.... I have never had any negative issues. The only thing that you have to do is filter out the fruit when pouring your wort into your carboy! Don't make the mistake I made the first time I did this with raspberries. I didn't puree them and the seeds were sitting at the bottom of my bottles! It was still delicious but what a pain. They mostly sat in the sediment but pouring slow helped. Freezing will do nothing for the bad stuff but boost the flavor. Boiling will cause loss of flavor, aroma and cloudiness. Drop your puree in at the end and you will have very clear, &quot;nasty&quot; free brew. Also, with strawberries, no cloudiness! Basically, your fruit will be added so early you won't have the mess in your second carboy and very clear brew. Just a different idea! Good luck and happy brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12245" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T01:22:31.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15418" CreationDate="2015-05-30T18:41:21.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got a couple of options and they all have pros and cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Secondary fermentation in same vessel as primary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your primary vessel isn't needed again and your main fermentation went well, you may not want to rack at all (if the recipe allows it). Especially if your primary vessel is a cylindroconical which means you can get sediments (dropped out yeast, hop residue, etc.) out. In that case you can avoid any chance of exposing your beer to oxygen while racking which is a big plus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Secondary fermentation in glass carboy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing your beer is nice but it doesn't really help with much. I also find it quite tricky to get larger hop bags in and out of some of the glass carboys. If you can choose between glass and plastic, of course go for glass. Plastic breathes, plastic is ok for milling grains and storing cleaning solutions but not for wort and beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Secondary fermentation in plastic bucket&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ferment beer in plastic buckets, well honestly... stop doing it. Unless you're really on a very very tight budget or don't care for the quality of your beer too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Secondary fermentation in stainless steal&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need a secondary vessel and don't have glass or your batch size is too large for glass carboys, stainless steal tanks are of course a great choice too. Glass can break and glass carboys are heavier than stainless steal buckets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3029" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T18:41:21.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15442" CreationDate="2015-05-31T17:28:38.803" Score="1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;A curious thing has happened, twice now, and I was wondering if anyone has either experienced something similar, or has any suggestions as to a possible why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done two (almost) identical full mash brews in succession, same equipment and, crucially, the same dried yeast - Safale S04. It's a traditional English bitter of about 3.7% ABV. In both cases I have primed the fermented wort with rehydrated malt extract and then split the batch between 12 pint bottles and a barrel to condition. Conditioning for bottle and barrel was controlled at 20 C (68 F) for a week before cooling to 12 C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both drink well, bright, nicely carbonated, good balance of flavours except that, from both batches, the barrelled beer has a very slight apple taste - assume the presence of acetaldehyde. It is in the background, kind of on the swallow, if you get my meaning, but is completely absent in the bottled version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleanliness springs to mind; however, I feel that I have been thorough. Aside from cleanliness, could there be any other reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[EDIT] In response to @Pepi comment. The barrel is a 25 litre plastic pressure barrel. The malt extract is added to the barrel and then the fermented wort is syphoned in, submerging the tube in the beer. Once the barrel is full (and mixed without agitation), I then use a bottle wand attached to the barrel tap to fill a few bottles. The caps are plain crown corks, nothing special. Finally, I seal the barrel and inject CO2 into it, leave it to stand, before slowly releasing the pressure to expel air, leaving the CO2 behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastEditorUserId="1088" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T11:28:47.503" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T01:57:12.697" Title="Slight green apple taste: barrel vs bottle" Tags="|conditioning|ale|taste|acetaldehyde|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15189" CreationDate="2015-05-31T21:26:51.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just hooked up my Sestos D1s for the first time using a 2-wire PT100 sensor, and I saw a similar issue with a blinking display showing an error message. I researched a bit and found that for a 2-wire PT100 sensor connected to pole 3 and 4, there must also be a connection made between pole 4 and 5! So I just wired one sensor cable to both 4 and 5, and it now works correctly. Hope this helps you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;regards,&#xA;Andrej&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12249" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T21:26:51.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-01T09:15:32.547" Score="1" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new in wine making and I tried to make it with fresh yeast, not dried. I think I'm using a lot of it to help fermentation end faster. Will this affect the taste of wine? Will dries yeast achieve a better taste or not ?&#xA;Also I want to know if anyone has tried wild yeast fermentation before....wild yeast is present naturally on the grape skin so you don't have to use yeast at all, but it believe it takes a long time to ferment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12252" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T10:57:45.650" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T10:57:45.650" Title="Does yeast type affect wine taste..?" Tags="|yeast|wine|fermenter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4743" CreationDate="2015-06-01T09:20:35.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer has traditionally been bittered by mugwort before hops became widespread. I once tried a small batch with that and it wasn't bad, but the bitterness is different and easily unpleasant. Be sure to include lots of speciality grain and top-ferment for flavor if you want to try anything like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: unbittered beer tastes pretty bland, but there are similar tastes that are pretty good, notably russian квас (basically a fermented bread).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12253" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T09:20:35.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15468" CreationDate="2015-06-01T09:31:21.897" Score="3" ViewCount="2580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some info on this for reasons of domestication of wild hops that grow around. I need to sort out male plants from the batches I pick up in the wild -- currently I'm just waiting until some flowers appear and prune male hops after that, but this process is actually not very fast nor resource efficient...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Is there any possible reliable method to tell apart small male and female hop plants before they start flowering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12253" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T10:34:51.723" Title="How to determine gender of a young hop plant?" Tags="|hops|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15436" CreationDate="2015-06-01T14:05:22.607" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should i sanitize the pot that i will be using the prepare the wort before i use it? I will be using one of Mr. Beer hopped malt extracts and this is my first brew. The manual does not say anything about this. It just says boil the hopped malt extract with four cups of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12232" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T15:11:35.813" Title="Sanitizing the wort pot" Tags="|sanitation|wort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15435" CreationDate="2015-06-01T15:11:35.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling water (or wort in this case) will sanitize the pot and anything in the pot. No need to pre-sanitize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, make sure the pot is clean of any physical matter or the wort will pick up unexpected flavors from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T15:11:35.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15432" CreationDate="2015-06-01T15:15:24.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast type and variety both affect flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found with beer-brewing that dry yeasts will produce different flavors from different packets of the same brand of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T15:15:24.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15422" CreationDate="2015-06-01T15:23:10.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Better Bottles use a superior manufacturing method to create practically impermeable PET plastic carboys&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more details, look under the &quot;Permability&quot; section of the technical page of their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.better-bottle.com/technical.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T15:23:10.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15439" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-01T16:44:55.217" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been wanting to make a sour, and it turns out that I have about 5 gallons of beer in my kegs that I'd like to dispose of prior to a long vacation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking I might be able to get a sour going with these beers following these steps, so anyone with experience, please chime in and let me know if this is a complete waste of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dispense the beer from the kegs into a carboy that will be used as the long fermenter.  There are 2 different beers...a blonde ale and a session IPA.  I will be adding some wine soaked french oak chips, since I don't have a barrel available at this time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow the carbonation to dissipate over a day or two with periodic agitation of the vessel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add some fruit (not sure what yet..considering a mixture of blueberries, raspberries and blackberries).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add some bottle dregs...I currently have a bottle of Oude Tart and Tart of Darkness I was planning on using for this. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the carboy in a dark place and forget about it for a year or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE, I realize the IPA is not a good choice for a sour due to hop flavors fading over time, but as I stated earlier, I already have it available so thought I could make use of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the blonde is a bit dry, but the IPA is not, so there are &quot;some&quot; dextrins for our friend brett to feed on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T17:06:16.667" Title="Make Sour from Previously Kegged Beer" Tags="|sour|reuse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15439" CreationDate="2015-06-01T17:06:16.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why this won't work, though it's unconventional. I probably would just let the carbonation off-gas naturally. You might also want to hold off on the fruit until nearer the end of the souring/aging, although if you add it at this point it will provide some more sugars for the bugs. Maltodextrin could be added as well for more sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget about the carboy, though. Make sure the airlock is filled, especially over such a long time. Limiting/eliminating O₂ introduction to sours is important, due to the production of acetic acid; you're making sour beer, not malt vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, just to be clear: brett does not sour anything. Lacto, pedio, and other bacteria do, but brett does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T17:06:16.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15432" CreationDate="2015-06-01T23:18:26.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several issues with attempting to ferment with wild yeast.  I've not tried it but here are a few things I've heard from people who have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you get good results, it is unlikely that you can repeat the process.  Know what you are getting is a nice feature of prepackaged yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wild yeast may not be alcohol tolerant. i.e. They may die off when the alcohol percent reaches 5% or some low percentage. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are other bacteria living on the skin of the grapes.  If you don't kill them off they are likely to produce odd aromas and flavors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With wine yeast I've found that the the same type of yeast like a Lavin D47 or K1-V1116 provide consistent results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12255" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T23:18:26.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15430" CreationDate="2015-06-02T01:57:12.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetaldehyde after bottling is a classic sign of oxygen exposure, and is the main reason we wait a week or more before drinking bottled homebrew. Noticeable CO2 shows up in just a few days, but the acetaldehyde (normal byproduct of glycolysis) only gets converted to alcohol later, when there is no more oxygen around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your procedure, I think you are getting extra oxygen into the barrelled beer:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you pressurize the barrel to purge it, the vent/pressure relief should be open at all times, otherwise you are actually forcing the the oxygen in the head space into the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are able to gently put some CO2 in the barrel the beer during filling, the air will be lifted out before it has any chance to meet the beer. If that's not possible, do the 'inject CO2 ... release&quot; to the empty barrel, removing oxygen before the beer goes in at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T01:57:12.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15447" CreationDate="2015-06-02T14:41:18.577" Score="0" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ingredients have arrived - I'm ready to go ahead with my latest brew. All those which I have done thus far haven't been perfect for a variety of reasons (admittedly probably my own fault as I've tried different methods/techniques as I've been learning). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm trying to establish a reliable extract brewing method, from boil-to-bottle, encompassing everything which I have done so far and what I've been advised/read on here and other sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular brew for which I will use this method is as follows:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;23L batch. 10L boil. Safale US-05 11.5g&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fermentables:-&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5kg light liquid malt extract (0.25kg of which is late addition @ 15mins.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100g Dextrose&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bittering:-&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;75g Apollo hops - 60min boil - 19% AA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Flavouring:-&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;25g Apollo hops - 30min boil - 19% AA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;25g El Dorado hops - 30min boil - 14.1% AA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Aroma:-&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;75g El Dorado hops - 15min boil - 14.1% AA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Predicted Properties:-&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original Gravity: 1.063 Final Gravity: 1.012 ABV: 6.75% IBU: 103.99&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Method&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N.B. I'm omitting 'obvious' things like sterilisation here:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Bring water to a rolling boil, remove from the heat and add required amount (add all if doing no late additions) of fermentables and stir until full dissolved. Ensure that none is stuck to the bottom of the pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Return to a rolling boil and add the amount of hops as and when desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Flameout. Remove from heat and cool as fast as possible to near pitching temperature ASAP as to avoid bacterial growth etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Add additional water content to reach the desired fermentation volume. (As an addition/replacement for step 3, this water can be cooled as much as possible to aid in reducing the temperature of the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Pitch yeast evenly when the wort is at a temperature slightly lower than ideal fermentation temperature. When fermentation commences, the yeasts' exothermic reactions will raise the temperature further until optimal temp. is reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) Seal the FV and monitor fermentation. When complete, turn off heat source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7) (A subjective step) Leave in primary for xx days (I usually go for 2-3 weeks in the primary, including the fermentation period.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8) Once conditioned, cold crash the FV in a bath or suitable container for approx. 48 hours prior to bottling to aid in yeast drop out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9) Prime bottles, add beer, cap, store in warm place for minimum 2 weeks to condition and carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10) Drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts? Comments? Additions? Experiences? - All welcome. I want to make this one top notch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastEditorUserId="8335" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T14:41:26.617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T14:55:23.523" Title="Generic, fool-proof extract brewing method" Tags="|first-time-brewer|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15445" CreationDate="2015-06-02T14:57:59.890" Score="0" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my recipe I have a boil size of 10L. Can this be split into 2 x 5L pots whereby half the ingredients would be used in each, but still reach the desired IBUs of a single 10L boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fingers crossed, otherwise I need more hops...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T15:30:35.997" Title="Can I still reach my desired IBU level if I split my boil?" Tags="|boil|partial-boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15444" CreationDate="2015-06-02T15:30:35.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you split the wort and hops accurately you'll be so close you'll never notice the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T15:30:35.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15443" CreationDate="2015-06-02T15:55:39.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding the malt extract at the very end of the boil is not going to go well, as there won't be any opportunity for the hot break proteins to denature and precipitate out. (Hell, it might not even sterilize properly.) And starting the boil with &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; extract is unusual, and likely to reduce hop utilization. Honestly, late extract additions are sort of a fiddly, perfectionist thing, and I wouldn't suggest doing them until you're more confident in your process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the other stuff looks fine, although a whole month in primary is overkill, and (depending on the beer and the yeast) mmmmaybe running the risk of autolysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7961" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T15:55:39.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15443" CreationDate="2015-06-02T19:13:24.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your recipe looks pretty good, but I agree with Sneftel.  Add all of your LME to the beginning of the boil.  There are chemical things (hot break, protein breaking down, etc) going on that require the 60 minute boil time.  That said, you really ought to think about adding some adjunct grains to give your beer mouth feel and body (and color).  Generally, you'd put the crushed grains in a grain bag (open mesh cloth sack), tie is closed and steep in 170 degree Fahrenheit (77 C) water for 20 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reason for cooling quickly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, bacteria live and thrive in the 40-140 degree Fahrenheit (4 - 60 C) temperature range.  The quicker you get your wort to pitching temperature and the yeast pitched, the less chance of a bacterial infection.  The yeast will compete with the bacteria and provide a CO2 rich environment that the infecting bacteria can't live through.  This is also the other reason for boiling your malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T19:13:24.953" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15454" CreationDate="2015-06-02T20:36:56.843" Score="1" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;Me and my dad have made a beer about 3 months ago. The beer was made with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pale malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flaked barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tap water (United Kingdom - South West - Guildford )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cascade hops 1/2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;goldings hops 1/2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and we followed an export recipe roughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outcome at this current time is a wonderful beery aroma with a slight citrus to it. The initial taste is good too, it has a good bitterness and a citrus note just trying its hardest to come through but it never quite gets there... &lt;strong&gt;all is quite pleasant until the finishing taste, it's its downfall...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When running it over the tongue its extremely bitter, very hay like and very very slight rubbery taste. There is also a very subtle starch haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lrh4P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your experience, what might be introducing this unpleasant after taste? Is it just a matter of giving it some more time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11878" LastEditorUserId="11878" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T21:22:13.863" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T14:37:02.807" Title="Bitter hay finishing taste with very slight burnt rubberyness" Tags="|taste|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2015-06-02T21:44:02.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An idea I want to try and would like comments on is to insulate the fermentation vessel and put a coil of pipe though the vessel.  Then using a thermostatically controlled valve run incoming mains water to cool the ferment.  This water will be consistently cold as mains pipes run through the ground whose temperature changes little between summer and winter in the uk.  This should enable me to brew english ale but I not sure about larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12258" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T21:44:02.783" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-06-02T21:44:02.783" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-02T23:59:53.403" Score="2" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZEth.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bottle of Mint wine was super clear when bottled. I use Sparkolloid. Six months later it looks like a snow globe. This is happening to several of my batches but not all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whats going on here ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some more thought, it seems the batches of wine without sediment where naturally more acidic. I don't know if that helps, but it is a common factor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8494" LastEditorUserId="8494" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T14:40:10.987" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T16:40:41.800" Title="Why is my wine cloudy now?" Tags="|wine|sanitation|cloudy|safety|fining|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4743" CreationDate="2015-06-03T03:24:01.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, yes I &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; made beer with no hops and all malt (and no other ingredients).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was awful.  I mean truly &lt;em&gt;vile&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T03:24:01.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2015-06-03T10:42:43.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't tried this on a beer bottle (i might tonight), but generally when i want to peel a sticker off, i just heat the sticker with a hair dryer. Then it just peels off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I tried this a few days ago, it did not work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12232" LastEditorUserId="12232" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T10:15:06.413" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T10:15:06.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15448" CreationDate="2015-06-03T10:44:44.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would you consider the aftertaste to be astringent (sucking a used tea bag)? In that case I would guess that you over-sparged. It might also be from an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubber is usually from chlorine in the water or from washing/sanitizing products that were not properly rinsed (or not diluted to recommended ratios). But, it can also be from an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess: buy a cheap carbon filter for your tap water, investigate your sparging step and revisit your washing/sanitizing regime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T10:44:44.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15456" CreationDate="2015-06-03T12:08:28.037" Score="0" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know, for when using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;calculator, for extract brewing&lt;/a&gt;, at what time the calculator assumes you add the malt (liquid malt extract in my case)? I.e. does it assume late addition or full 60 min. boil? I am asking because I want to get to as close to the predicted IBU level of my beer as possible for my boil size. As I understand, AA extraction can be affected (reduced?) by the sugars in the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastEditorUserId="8335" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T12:41:55.770" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T12:45:54.553" Title="A question on the Brewers' Friend Calculator" Tags="|first-time-brewer|extract-brewing|ibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15455" CreationDate="2015-06-03T12:45:54.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the fermentables section, if you &quot;Add Custom&quot; you can indicate that a fermentable (extract) addition is a &quot;Late Addition&quot;, but it does not seem to specify exactly when/how late that addition is; I imagine it means &quot;near flameout&quot;.  As such, it looks like it will account for bitterness changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably inquire with the Brewers Friend authors/operators, honestly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T12:45:54.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15450" CreationDate="2015-06-03T14:14:46.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you filter you will always have some level of yeast in suspension even when using a clarifier. Yet, that does seem like an unusual amount of sediment. Maybe try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easternshoresbrewing.com/isinglass/?page_context=category&amp;amp;faceted_search=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;isinglass&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easternshoresbrewing.com/chitosan/?page_context=category&amp;amp;faceted_search=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chitosan&lt;/a&gt; in your next couple of batches to see of it makes a difference. From the picture it almost appears as it could be a pectic haze as well. Did you use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easternshoresbrewing.com/pectic-enzyme-1-oz/?page_context=category&amp;amp;faceted_search=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pectic enzyme&lt;/a&gt; in the fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12157" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T14:14:46.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15443" CreationDate="2015-06-03T15:18:48.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like you're putting too much emphasis on recipe, and not enough on technique. Happy yeast, and cleanliness, are the main differences between professional beer and homebrew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'll say two things about the recipe: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do you know about your extract? Is it intended for a strong hoppy beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holy crap that's a lot of hops!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to technique:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Boil all of your water. You can do this the day before if needed. It will kill bacteria and remove chlorine. Campden tablets do this too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Revive your yeast according to the instructions on the pack - don't just throw them in the wort. Better still, make a starter. The healthier they are going in, the better job they will do at the end (when it really matters). Also be aware that the first kick of fermentation will be a lot stronger, the last guy that follow that advice never got the stains off the ceiling. Use a blow off tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxygenate the wort, or oxygenate the starter of yeast, for the same reason in the previous paragraph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your 'ideal fermentation temperature'? Anything above 20C is a mistake with that yeast. Below 15 is probably bad too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't need to cold crash after 2 weeks (or longer) in primary. That yeast might be a little slow to drop out, but homebrewers usual have no problem with it. Also, it's less stress for the yeast that will condition your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Disregard my previous comments about water, the extract should already have the needed mineral in it. Or at least some minimal amounts of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T14:55:23.523" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T14:55:23.523" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15460" CreationDate="2015-06-03T16:46:22.317" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a little bit of experience in making mead, I have a batch to be bottled in a few days. Now, I wanted to try to make beer next, where should I start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the major differences between making mead and beer? I don't even boil my water, I do have a secondary fermentation and I siphon to leave the dead yeast (no filtering). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus: Is there any type of beer that is harder to fail / more likely to be good at the first try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12254" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T02:24:12.970" Title="Going from Mead to Beer" Tags="|beer|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15459" CreationDate="2015-06-03T17:12:43.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference is the boil. Beer requires the wort to be boiled for about an hour with hops added at different points. You should get a good burner or the water will take forever to bring to a boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beermaking steps:&#xA; 1. Heat water and soak grains&#xA; 2. Bring water to a boil and add bittering hops and, optionally, malts&#xA; 3. Boil for an hour, adding flavor hops in the middle, and aroma at the end&#xA; 4. Cool everything and move it to the fermenter&#xA; 5. Depending on the beer, add dry-hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for which beer to start with, go for a simple stout or pale ale, depending on your tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T17:12:43.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15462" CreationDate="2015-06-03T20:47:08.017" Score="0" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed my first batch with a Mr Beer 8 liter kit. However, it seems that i made a rookie mistake about assembling the spigot. It leaks as small drops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think that the spigot can be tightened without ruining the end product or that it is already ruined and it will be a waste of a HME?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The leaking stopped by itself overnight. I put a paper towel underneath the spigot and it's been dry for two days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12232" LastEditorUserId="12232" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T06:40:30.323" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T06:40:30.323" Title="Leaking spigot assembly" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15461" CreationDate="2015-06-03T23:28:30.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opening and exposing the beer to outside air while it is fermenting will risk infection, though a leak means that it is exposed any how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what your spigot setup looks like, but if you can try to tighten it without opening the vessel, I'd say give it a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6777" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T23:28:30.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15459" CreationDate="2015-06-04T02:24:12.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest starting with a simple extract recipe, like a Pale Ale, IPA, or a simpler stout as ztk mentions above.  If you get into it you can go all-grain, but to start extract brewing is a lot easier and has fewer things to go wrong.  You also don't need to worry about racking the beer into secondary (few beers need it), you can rack straight from the fermenter into the bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a pot big enough to do a full boil (an 8 gallon pot is the smallest practical size for a 5 gallon batch), you can do a partial boil and add top-up water (don't worry about boiling it) to the fermenter to reach the final batch size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The free version of John Palmer's &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt; should answer most of your questions, especially since you're already familiar with fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T02:24:12.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15630" CreationDate="2015-06-04T08:20:52.953" Score="2" ViewCount="538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two questions regarding calculating the MCU for a beer receipt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;MCU = (weight of grain i lbs) * (color in degrees lovibond) / (volume in gallons)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For my grains, I have the color listed in SRM, and not Lovibond. Do I have to first convert the color to Lovibond, and then put it into the formula, or is there a variation of this formula that I can use with SRM as well?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which volume do I use here? Do I use the volume at the point in the process where I want to calculate the color? Then I guess post-boil volume would be the best volume to use, or are you supposed to just use the batch size?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1079" LastEditorUserId="1079" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T10:41:15.183" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T15:08:25.990" Title="Beer color - Calculating MCU" Tags="|all-grain|brewing|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-04T08:21:31.077" Score="3" ViewCount="1190" Body="&lt;p&gt;So i opened up a bottle of home brew that had been lagering for a few months. When i opened it and pour it into a glass is was perfectly clear with nice carbonation. Then within 5-10 minutes it was cloudy, and the sort of cloudy you get at the end of a barrel, any ideas why??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12264" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T14:52:46.100" Title="Beer turning cloudy when poured into a glass" Tags="|cloudy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15466" CreationDate="2015-06-04T10:20:55.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought Chill Haze, but that is usually when the beer is cold and unfiltered; ss the beer warms up the haze goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a BYO article that you can read on Chill Haze. Maybe it has a solution for you: &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/hops/item/486-conquer-chill-haze&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/hops/item/486-conquer-chill-haze&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A haze that appears when the beer warms up is strange... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You poured it, so it wasn't yeast in the bottom of the bottle that was roused due to drinking &amp;amp; carbonation...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Witchcraft? :p&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T10:20:55.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15434" CreationDate="2015-06-04T10:25:52.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer; no. (Unless the parent was old school and painted the room blue or pink.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for a flowering plant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cones are the female flower. The male flowers appear as small clusters&#xA;  of round buds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=405875&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=405875&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First comment on page has a pic of both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastEditorUserId="3056" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T10:34:51.723" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T10:34:51.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15379" CreationDate="2015-06-04T10:35:11.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have added DME to a beer (strangely enough, also an IPA) to get the OG to where it should be. I added the DME two or three days after pitching yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The DME was mixed with filtered water and boiled for 10 minutes to kill any bugs. This was then covered and cooled and then added to the fermenting beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe BeerSmith has a tool that tells you how strong a wort you need to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T10:35:11.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15372" CreationDate="2015-06-04T10:42:28.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a bit late, but have you tried just moving the fermenter to a warmer environment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I get a &quot;stuck ferment&quot; my first step is to move the beer to a warmer area. The second step is to agitate the fermenter (and thereby the yeast) a bit by a bit of shaking or swirling. I do not open the fermenter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you got your FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T10:42:28.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15339" CreationDate="2015-06-04T10:51:30.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Options&#xA;1) You moved your fermenter so that you can siphon the beer off. This lead to the yeast bed being disturbed. There was some CO2 caught in the yeast bed and because of the broken bed the CO2 and the accompanying yeast rose to the top.&#xA;2) Same as above, but your raking cane caused the break.&#xA;3) Your beer was warming up during the siphoning process and caused a renewal in fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, as Tobias said, beer will clarify in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A nice trick to help get very clear beer: Chill your beer to around 2C before bottling. This causes most of the yeast to fall out and creates a more solid yeast bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T10:51:30.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15317" CreationDate="2015-06-04T10:56:17.313" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not just add the hops to the boil? You will get the most out of the hops that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only use the mesh bags for dry &quot;herbing&quot;. In other words, if I add any herbs/spices to the beer during fermentation but I need to remove them after a few days. For dry hopping: I just throw the hops in. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T10:56:17.313" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15461" CreationDate="2015-06-04T13:50:22.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try tightening it by turning the spigot itself clockwise from the outside. It'll end up cattywampus, but at least it won't be leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I install things like this (bottling bucket spigot, weldless kettle valve, mash tun valve, etc.) I initially install the valve between 45 and 90 degrees off from vertical, tighten the inside nut, and then tighten the valve from the outside to get a nice seal. I've never had any leaks using this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T13:50:22.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15448" CreationDate="2015-06-04T14:37:02.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had two batches in the last year that have had some similar characteristics to what you describe. The beers looked, smelled, and tasted great until the very end, as I swallowed. I described the flavor as &quot;earthy,&quot; &quot;dirty,&quot; or &quot;dusty.&quot; People perceive and describe flavors differently, and I wonder if what I tasted isn't what you describe as &quot;extremely bitter&quot; and &quot;hay like.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a whole lot of research, I finally came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carolinabrewmasters.com/PDF/Complete_Beer_Fault_Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this excellent reference&lt;/a&gt;, which links dusty off flavors to mold (see the &lt;strong&gt;Musty&lt;/strong&gt; entry). I wracked my brain trying to figure out how I could have gotten mold in my beer, coming up empty for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, one fine brew day after my second encounter with this off flavor, I decided to take extra precaution when preparing my Better Bottle to receive the wort. I did a visual inspection before my normal application of sanitizer. I had to look very, very closely, but there it was. A tiny little spot of white mold, about the size of a pea. Being white, it did not stand out and was not easy to see even when I was looking for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is recommended to lay a Better Bottle on its side after washing it because supposedly it will dry faster that way. I did that, and the mold grew in the spot where the little remaining water pooled. After I found the mold, I inserted a wash cloth and gave it a good washing just prior to sanitizing and adding the wort. The beer that fermented in it tastes fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I'm suggesting, in my very roundabout way, is to check your fermenter(s) very closely for mold before you put your beer in there. Even a tiny bit can have a huge impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for me, washing and then sanitizing my fermenter is part of my brew day routine now. I still haven't figured out how to dry a Better Bottle more quickly to avoid the issue altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T14:37:02.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15487" CreationDate="2015-06-04T23:03:26.460" Score="1" ViewCount="2530" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I made a batch (4.5 gallons) of show mead using 10lbs of locust honey. Starting gravity was 1.091&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used dry white wine yeast and fermentation went relevantly quick (with some help of potassium carbonate, DAP and Ferment-K), dropping from 1.090 to 1.003 in just 5 days and stopping. I just injected a last portion of the nutrients a night before and next day it was all done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, right now it is 1.003 with 11.5% of alcohol. For obvious reason I cannot taste anything yet in my mead, and probably won't be able for at least another 4-5 month (that's where the taste would start evening out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, since I've never made a standard dry show mead (by definition of BJCP Guide OG=1.080-1.120, ABV=7.5-14.0%, FG=0.990-1.010), I'm not sure what to expect. I was hoping to finish at 1.010, but overshoot a little bit. Thus I have few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does a dry mead turns out usually? Like a white wine, Chardonnay, I assume?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will it preserve the aroma of locust honey even with 1.003 gravity?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I back-sweeten it with 8-12oz of locust honey trying to bring the gravity to 1.008-1.010 or would it be fine like that? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would 2-3 years of aging help it? I'm pretty new into mead-making (a year), and never aged my mead longer then that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the best time for the back-sweetening? After mead just cleared out, 9-12 month out when it is servable or right away after fermentation is over and I stabilized with camden tables?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I was thinking about splitting a batch into 3 and 1 gallons for aging, so I could play around with 1 gallon without fear of loosing the whole batch. If I use few french oak cubes with 1 gallon (1/4 of an oz or so), how much character would it bring to dry mead?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, if that was too long, and really appreciate your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastEditorUserId="6374" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T23:39:46.830" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T08:58:00.967" Title="Should I back-sweetening a very dry mead?" Tags="|mead|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15339" CreationDate="2015-06-05T16:29:44.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran into some of the same issues when I started.  I've had success in getting a clear beer by mixing 1 tsp of unflavored gelatin in a cup of water, heat to 150F, cool, and add to beer stirring carefully.  Wait two weeks and the majority of the sediment will be at the bottom of the carboy or bucket.  Siphon carefully, from the top to the bottom, just above your sediment, on top of your priming solution in a clean carboy, mix a bit, then bottle.  Conditioning will leave a bit of sediment at the bottom of the bottles, but not really an issue.  Cold storage will help the solids settle, and will help clear the beer, especially if done in conjunction with the gelatin finings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T16:29:44.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15337" CreationDate="2015-06-05T16:51:06.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a large rubbermaid trash can with a tight lid. I put in a thick construction style trash bag. I can fit 100lbs of grain easy. I then twist the trash bag, clip it shut, and put the locking lid on the trash can. I have had grain for two years in it without it going bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12270" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T16:51:06.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15479" CreationDate="2015-06-06T08:50:38.020" Score="0" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a coopers ginger beer kit but over the past week the yeast didn't seem to activate particularly well. There has been no krausen and over the past couple  of days there have been a few bubbles on top but that's it. I have done a couple of coopers kits but ordered these from a different supplier. I decided to give Amazon a try as it was cheaper but I think that the yeast might have been mistreated. Is it possible to abuse dried yeast? I just sprinkled my dried yeast over the top when the mixture was around 21 degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kit has an expiry date of the February 2016. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything that can be done to save the batch? Such as just leave it to ferment for longer as there is less yeast? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11987" LastEditorUserId="11987" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T08:57:23.613" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T17:31:37.780" Title="Handling dried yeast" Tags="|yeast|coopers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15478" CreationDate="2015-06-06T13:55:52.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that Ginger Beer has the same proteins that barley/wheat beer does so it possibly won't get the same amount of froth.  If there is a big layer of yeast at the bottom, then it may already be finished. You could pour of a very small sample and taste it.  If it is sickly sweet, then the fermentation hasn't started.  If it is dry, then perhaps it is finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;21 degrees is on the cool side for a dried yeast. If you can get the temperature up it may help.  It also helps if the mix is well oxygenated before adding the yeast. I use a BIG whisk.  The yeast use oxygen during the initial process in order to multiply numbers.  By the end of that step, there are too many yeast cells for an infection to take hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you don't want to do is allow bacteria to get into the brew.  If there has been some CO2 being produced and you have a fermentation lock then it should be protected at the moment.  Two things to avoid when you have a stuck fermentation at this point are lifting the fermenter by the top (ie handles) and pouring a sample too quickly.  Both will suck air into through the air lock and whilst I cant prove it will be a source of infection, it defeats the purpose of the air lock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps try warming it up first.  Adding some more yeast may help if the fermentation is stuck, but get it started in a cup of body temp water with a 1/2 teaspoon of sugar.  Wait until it is foaming well.  Yeast don't like big changes in temperature either as it reduces their vigour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12275" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T13:55:52.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-06T15:26:18.193" Score="4" ViewCount="5949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made ginger beer from my own &quot;ginger bug&quot; but did not get much carbonation. I think I put it in the refrigerator too soon, so I took one bottle out, let it sit for 2 days and VIOLA, carbonation is perfect. Question: Will my ginger beer still be okay (safe) for drinking if I take the bottles out of the refrigerator, let them sit for a couple days and then put them back in the refrigerator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12276" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T22:23:35.477" Title="Ginger Beer Not Carbonated" Tags="|carbonation|ginger-beer|food-safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15478" CreationDate="2015-06-06T17:31:37.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had ninja yeast and frat-boy yeast. :p&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would let it go for one weeks after pitching the yeast, then take a reading.  Taking a reading is the only way of finding out if something is happening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no difference between your OG and a reading after a week, then add some new yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T17:31:37.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14687" CreationDate="2015-06-08T00:31:15.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been doing a lot of research for my own purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brutus 10 is the gold standard of making your own.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewacademy.com/brutus-10-build&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://homebrewacademy.com/brutus-10-build&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you don't want to weld, which is the one I'm probably going to do.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aleiens.com/profiles/blogs/wallace-the-weldless-brew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.aleiens.com/profiles/blogs/wallace-the-weldless-brew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6700" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T00:31:15.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-08T02:33:15.623" Score="3" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time breing beer, and I was doing so while distracted with kids, and unfortunately I missed the dry malt extract packet that was in my IPA kit.  There were 2 cans of a liquid malt extract, and when the directions said to add the malt extract I thought that was all there was, and while I was cleaning up this evening I found the packet of dry extract.  Do y'all think the beer will be ruined? Should I just toss it out and chalk it up as a learning experience?  Or just roll with it and hopefully it turns out ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12279" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T10:51:14.710" Title="First time brewer. I'm afraid I've ruined my beer" Tags="|extract|malt|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15483" CreationDate="2015-06-08T06:13:47.370" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if jsolarski's hunch is incorrect (that your extra DME is for priming the bottles), and it was actually meant for the boil, the beer won't be ruined at all.  You just missed the original gravity target, which means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the beer will finish drier than it otherwise would have (lower original gravity will usually lead to lower final gravity)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the balance of maltiness and hops bittering will be thrown off, so that the beer will seem more bitter than it otherwise would have&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the beer will have lower alcohol than it otherwise would have&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't consider any of these to be deal breakers.  The best solution is to continue following the directions you have and see what kind of beer you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. If you're using an ingredient kit it would be helpful to know which kit it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T06:13:47.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15483" CreationDate="2015-06-08T08:30:42.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have missed adding it to the boil rather than as bottling primer, then there is a fourth option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could boil up the DME in about a pint of water, and then add it to the fermenter. The yeast won't care that it wasn't there initially and will happily convert it into alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer should be drinkable regardless, just may be slightly unbalanced, but will still do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T08:30:42.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15480" CreationDate="2015-06-08T08:34:08.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be absolutely fine. Drink and enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By dropping into the fridge so early you just caused the yeast to stop their work. By removing it and allowing it to warm you have restarted the fermentation. You could happily leave it out of the fridge for a few months and so long as the bottles can handle the pressure that could build you would have no issues. It won't go bad from sitting out of the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T08:34:08.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15475" CreationDate="2015-06-08T08:44:54.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Dry mead usually turns out like a light dry wine with the floral hints of the honey coming through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) In my experience yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) split the batch and see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) split the batch and see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) I usually do it just before bottling. But ensure I make sure to use a strong bottle in case some yeast slid past and turns it into sparkling mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) Definitely split and experiment, and make sure you keep notes and label things so 12 months down the line you can tell which worked and you want to repeat and which failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have 4.5 gallons, I would split this into 2 batches and back sweeten half, then split these each into 3 or 4 batches and leave some for 6 months, 1 year, 2 years and try some with oak chips. You can end up with a whole load of different meads from one brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Experimenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="8203" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T00:12:03.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T00:12:03.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15489" CreationDate="2015-06-08T10:08:33.387" Score="1" ViewCount="1283" Body="&lt;p&gt;first question asked in homebrew.stackexchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a pumpkin ale that I've just moved from primary to secondary (after 7 weeks). The original plan was to have it 7/7/7 (7 weeks in primary, 7 weeks in secondary and then 7 weeks in bottle) before opening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? because I liked the sound of it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there's a local home-brewer's competition that I'd like to enter, and the submissions close in 4 weeks time. So the question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I leave it in secondary for another week and then bottle for 3?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I leave it in secondary for another 2 and bottle for 2?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I leave it for another 3 weeks and then bottle for only 1?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that there are different types of fermentation stages and it has to go through each of those stages after I add my bottling sugars, but to be honest, I don't &lt;em&gt;QUITE&lt;/em&gt; comprehend those stages (yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just wondering which of the 3 above options would probably be the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an added bonus, would I need to pitch more yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra info: I've got about 45 litres of the stuff, so I'll be drawing about 5 for the competition and leaving the rest for the 7/7/7 plan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12282" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T10:31:56.520" Title="Is it Better to leave beer in secondary longer or bottle?" Tags="|bottling|secondary-fermentation|ale|pumpkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15488" CreationDate="2015-06-08T10:31:56.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I'd bottle for 2 or 3 weeks. As I like it to develop and carbonate nicely in the bottle. I would usually not leave my brews sitting in the primary so long as it rests on a lot of lees. The yeast it is sitting on will start to break down and can potentially release off flavours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I hit my target gravity I try to get the beer/wine into the secondary or bottle as soon as possible, to minimise the risk of these flavours getting into the beer. Secondary I sometimes leave for up to 3 months as it slowly evolves, but I use a glass secondary if I am leaving it this long as plastic has a very low permeability to oxygen and the beer can spoil. Minimum time in bottle for nice carbonation I usually find to be about a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T10:31:56.520" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15483" CreationDate="2015-06-08T12:28:56.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen DME used as bottling sugar. Although, it could be used to do so. I rather suspect that the DME was in fact meant to be added to the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The others are also correct in that it will just lower your Original Gravity, as well as your Final Gravity, thereby reducing your ABV. But your beer should still be very drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal experience has taught me that even if you think you may have screwed up a beer, it takes quite a bit to screw it up to the point that it's undrinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And who knows, maybe you you'll even like your new concoction. Maybe even like it so much that next time you get that kit, you'll leave the DME out intentionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12282" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T12:28:56.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15466" CreationDate="2015-06-08T12:50:55.270" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Potentially it is yeast disturbed when you pour that over the course of 5-10 min  clumps together and clouds the beers, or potentially bacteria, if the later I would expect the beer to be unpleasant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is the beer drinkable, if so I suspect you have some yeast floating around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2014/may/23/unfiltered-beer-cloudy-pint-unfined-london-murky&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2014/may/23/unfiltered-beer-cloudy-pint-unfined-london-murky&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T12:50:55.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6848" CreationDate="2015-06-08T12:55:45.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To reduce alkalinity from 320 (6.4 meq/L) to 40 (0.8 mEq/L) you will need 6.4 - 0.8 = 5.6 mEq/L protons. I assume your finding that 1.5 mL of CRS will do this for you comes from the Brupaks table. Thus tells us that the normality of CRS is 5.6/1.4 = 4 N (a nice round number). Now we know that CRS is equimolar HCl and H2SO4 so that 2/3 of the protons (8/3 mEq/L) come from sulfuric and 1/3 (4/3 mEq/L) from HCl. The equivalent weight of sulfate is 48 so the sulfate addition is 8*48/3 = 128 mg/L sulfate and the equivalent weight of chloride is 35 so the chloride addition is 4*35/3 = 47 mg/L.  Those anion additions are not enough to be tasted directly but the sulfate will make the hops bitterness appreciably more assertive and the chloride is enough to improve the body of the beer and round its flavors out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, 5.2 is worthless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12283" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T12:55:45.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15498" CreationDate="2015-06-08T13:14:13.700" Score="0" ViewCount="2026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &quot;brewed&quot; a beer that was described as &quot;Chinese Rice Wine&quot;, but it is 50% grain so I will call it a beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe: 18 liter batch; 2.5 kg boiled Rice, 2 kg sugar, a cup or so  of raisins and one lemon. All the ingredients are poured into the fermenter. Yeast: S-04. Fermented for 2 weeks&#xA;OG: 1,020.&#xA;FG: 1,040!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that the rice/lemon/raisins added more body or other unfermentables to the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer has a &quot;Old School Ginger Beer&quot; taste and aroma. Very drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hydrometer is working fine as I kegged another beer and the readings were correct and I brewed another beer and there the readings were correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the recipe is not exact as I can't find the notes now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T15:18:47.537" Title="Can FG be higher than OG?" Tags="|original-gravity|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15450" CreationDate="2015-06-08T13:16:18.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never encountered this before but is this any help to you: &lt;a href=&quot;http://winemakersacademy.com/bottled-wine-cloudy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://winemakersacademy.com/bottled-wine-cloudy/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T13:16:18.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15493" CreationDate="2015-06-08T13:32:30.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you added more sugars to the wort after taking the OG reading, it wouldn't be possible for the FG to be higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you more than likely know, the Hydrometer measures buoyancy of the liquid. The  physics of it works like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pure water will have a gravity of 1.000. However, the more sugar you add to the water will make it lean towards a syrup, and I'm not sure what a syrup's gravity would be, but it would be massive. (highly buoyant, although sticky) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the yeast does is &quot;eat&quot; that sugar, thereby reducing the gravity. However, another thing that the yeast does is make alcohol. The funny thing about alcohol, is that it's less buoyant than water. You can have 0.995 Gravity with highly alcoholic drinks. So in essence, the more alcohol that is produced, the lower the gravity would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that you misread the hydrometer? It has happened to me on occasion where the increments on it are 1, 1.010, 1.020, 1.030, and instead of me reading it as 1.012, I've read it as 1.020.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12282" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T13:32:30.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15493" CreationDate="2015-06-08T13:36:00.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that starch from the rice was released over time into solution, raising the specific gravity. Starch has the same effect as sugar on specific gravity, as it increases the density of the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T13:36:00.027" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-08T13:42:52.090" Score="1" ViewCount="1126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use home-grown hops in my home-brewed beer. And the best way I can think of doing that is to grow my own hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem is that I can't seem to find any suppliers of hop rhizomes in South Africa. Even all the hops farms in the country are owned by SAB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know anywhere that sells the female hop rhizomes that can ship internationally? I'm looking for Cascade specifically, but will take others as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried growing them from seeds, but have failed each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12282" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T08:19:10.913" Title="Hop Rhizomes in South Africa" Tags="|hops|rhizome|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15493" CreationDate="2015-06-08T15:18:47.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you add water after you put the rest of the stuff in the fermenter?  If so you got incomplete mixing and a false OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T15:18:47.537" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15500" CreationDate="2015-06-08T17:44:51.727" Score="3" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just starting out with homebrewing and I decided for my first batch to use an extract kit from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com&lt;/a&gt;. For my first batch I figured I would follow the instructions to a T. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/3gal%20-%20american%20ipa.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/3gal%20-%20american%20ipa.pdf&lt;/a&gt;. &#xA;I ended up with a very cloudy wort. The instructions however, did not mention anything about filtering or straining and i simply poured my cooled kettle of wort into the fermentation bucket, and sprinkled the dry yeast on top as instructed on the package of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a couple days ago, the airlock is bubbling like crazy (so I assume it's fermenting alright) but after finishing up I was a little unsure of the process that I just completed and I looked up some more details. Mainly to either strain the wort or do the &quot;whirlpool&quot; to leave out much of the gunk. Also i looked up more detailed instructions for the yeast (US-05), that said I should re-hydrate the yeast prior to pitching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now i'm worried that I've done something wrong and the beer wont turn out. I guess the only way to know for sure is to wait a few weeks before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional question:&#xA;Will it be possible to clarify the beer at the bottling phase or will I be stuck with a cloudy beer. I assume most of the residue will settle and I will be incredibly careful not to disturb during transfer to bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;James&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12284" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T16:35:57.720" Title="First batch, followed instructions, not sure if it's going to turn out" Tags="|beginner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15499" CreationDate="2015-06-08T18:20:12.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not the end of the world if you don't re-hydrate the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sediment will settle out over the next couple of weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry, the beer will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T18:20:12.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15298" CreationDate="2015-06-09T06:23:54.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In April  2015 I broke or 'quiebre' a maguey to harvest its nectar, aguamiel, and I knew that I could make pulque from it, first time i tried to do this stuff.&#xA;Well, i just took a sip of my own made pulque, and it tasted good. Let me share what little I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One must harvest it right before the maguey shoot come out, ( 8-9yrs old maguey ) or if it just came out, like mine, mine had already reached about 3-4 feet when I found out and chopped it  and carved its center, where the sap gathers. ONe must cut out the maguey during full moon to 1/4 waning moon. it took me paciently to carve it for two weeks before the nectar started pooling in. patience. one carves it twice daily carving out about a hand full each time. Once the honeywater comes out, one can collect it three times a day if the days are hot, else two times a day, this way it won't start to ferment. But one must carve out that hand full each time one collects the honeywater.&#xA;Am just starting about making pulque, and started asking my old relatives from Mexico about how to make pulque and molasess from aguamiel (honewater).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now about pulque, I asked my cousin to bring me a liter of pulq from a restaurant in CHula Vista Califronia, i let it age and from there I started my own base. For the one liter after ageing, one week, I removed the excess foam and used a new clean glass container, and added about a 1/4 liter honeywater and next day I added 1/4 liter again, I then left it alone for about three days, removing the foam every time, then drank a portion, and replenished it with new honeywater. that is where I am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now looking at the Mexican maguey farmers in youtube, 'tlachiqueros', one mentioned that to start your pulque base  one must let for example, 1 liter of honeywater ferment for a whole month, then change it to a clean container, but don't use soap stuff to wash it, but use lemon juice and a natural loofah type or bristle. Then to that 1 liter add about a 1/5 of honeywater daily&#xA;( I can't remember how often ), then when that pulque has become  enough and you want to start drinking it then one must add 1 liter of aguamiel per 2 liters of pulque. or two to one ration. Remember to transfer the pulque to a clean container daily.No soaps.&#xA;I hope this helps. GOod luck and don't give up. Drink of the Aztecs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One warning, the honeywater causes a skin type irritation that itches like hell for several minutes. Specially the leaves zap. wear long rubber gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my email  rigo.deleon7@gmail.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12288" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T06:23:54.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15497" CreationDate="2015-06-09T10:49:18.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very few American hop farms ship to SA because we are in the Southern Hemisphere. You also need a importers license. The license is cheap, but it requires that the company sending the items to you have a certificate that the hops is clean (not infected with any bugs from the importers list).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to try NZ or Australia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to get a few rhizomes from USA this year, but I found out about the &quot;cleanliness&quot; too late. Will be better organized next year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DO NOT IMPORT THEM ILLEGALLY! Some bugs from overseas can and will kill the SA hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can try to get South African rhizomes for you. Is there a specific type that you are looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T10:49:18.977" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15483" CreationDate="2015-06-09T10:51:14.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks yall. The DME was definitely not intended to be the priming sugar it was a 1lb bag, but I do kinda like the idea of boiling up a little more water and adding it to it. The kit was brewers best IPA kit.  As of this morning June 9 an almost 7am the airlock is going to town. Yall have certainly helped relieve many of my concerns, thanks. I'll keep yall notified of how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12279" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T10:51:14.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-09T16:10:02.167" Score="1" ViewCount="1346" Body="&lt;p&gt;on brew day of my first batch, when i was ready to take OG reading, i dropped my hydrometer so no OG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to get a rough estimate of the OG. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12284" LastEditorUserId="3056" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T11:48:55.407" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T21:35:09.633" Title="Hydrometer broke, no original gravity" Tags="|specific-gravity|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15505" CreationDate="2015-06-09T16:25:28.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Digital alcohol meters exist to replace hydrometers, but they are not cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.anton-paar.com/wwd-en/snap-40.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwndqrBRC16IyeqPicp3ASJAB-vB-cx3JTp5sIaZrOPR_onFhWnL0uzT7EiAGICwwiSd3ZgBoCxXHw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://shop.anton-paar.com/wwd-en/snap-40.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwndqrBRC16IyeqPicp3ASJAB-vB-cx3JTp5sIaZrOPR_onFhWnL0uzT7EiAGICwwiSd3ZgBoCxXHw_wcB&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do instead, if brew day is not too far gone, is rush to the store to get a new hydrometer and measure approximatively from there. Watch out though, if you don't want oxygen reaching your brew, this is a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to try to estimate the OG. This calculator says it does so: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/allgrain-ogfg/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/allgrain-ogfg/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I've never used it in practice, I can't tell if it's right from experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12254" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T16:25:28.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15505" CreationDate="2015-06-09T16:43:55.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was an extract batch, it's easier to calculate the OG than to measure it.  If it was all grain and you know your efficiency, we can calculate it pretty closely from the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T16:43:55.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15505" CreationDate="2015-06-10T11:28:32.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but it is expensive to buy the toys, as M__ said. To send the beer away for tests is also expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the words of the great Charlie Papazian: Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG is not important. FG is important as it will help confirm that your beer has finished fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to your local homebrew store and get two hydrometers. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you did not drop the hyrometer into your beer! O_o&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T11:28:32.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15505" CreationDate="2015-06-10T16:28:28.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contrary to popular opinion, you don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; a hydrometer like you need sanitizer.  You use a hydrometer to find out how efficiently sugars were extracted from your grains.  Since you likely used extract, that's built into the recipe (it should be listed).  You'll probably want something to check to see if the fermentation has completed by verifying that the gravity doesn't change for a few days in a row (normally, the advise is 3 day), but that's not a huge deal either.  Let the fermentation go for 14 days if it's ale and you should be fine (provided that you're fermenting at ale temperatures).  Now, that's like watching the leaves move and figuring which way the wind is blowing.  It doesn't give you much information and it doesn't really tell you what you need to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I would do if I were you... if homebrewing is going to be a hobby that you think you're going to enjoy for a while, go on that very popular auction website and look for a brewing refractometer.  They're bigger than a hydrometer so you won't be tempted to put it in your pocket and they're easier to use.  A couple of drops will tell you your gravity and you don't have to get it to 70 degrees.  If you ever looked to a toilet paper tube when you were a a kid, you can use a refractometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T16:28:28.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15499" CreationDate="2015-06-10T16:35:57.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you've said, I see no reason to worry.  You said that you followed the instruction to the letter. That's what you're supposed to do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, your cloudiness issue:  I'm going to assume that you like your beer cold.  After you've bottled your beer (be sure to use the included priming sugar), and allowed the 2 week carbonation time, you'll put the bottles into the refrigerator to get cold.  Here's what's going to happen next... you're going to pour the cold beer into a glass carefully, leaving the last 1/8&quot; of beer in to bottom of the bottle.  Then you're going to enjoy it.  It will be clear, unless wheat was in the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR&#xA;Continue following the instructions and enjoy the beer that you made.  In fact, after you've enjoyed the first one, invite a friend over and the 2 of you can enjoy a beer together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T16:35:57.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15497" CreationDate="2015-06-10T18:34:40.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's generally not recommended to import due to diseases. However, I would suggest reaching out to SABmiller and ask if you can get a few rhizomes next time they do their root &quot;pruning&quot; (I can't think of the correct term.)&#xA;From what I've heard they're very homebrewer friendly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12293" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T18:34:40.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15519" CreationDate="2015-06-10T18:43:35.957" Score="2" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently was brewing a 1 gallon kit from Northern Brewer (The White House Honey Ale kit) and instantly after adding the first packet of hops, the entire kettle boiled over. Absolutely instantly, there's nothing I could do to stop it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I estimate I lost about 1/2 to 1 cup of water and up to 1/4th of my first hops packet (there were no issues when I added the second one later in the brew.) I asked the Northern brewer chatline for help and was only told &quot;Don't try to add more liquid or your beer will be too watery.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the loss of the hops going to be an issue in the final flavor? Any recommendations on preventing a future boil-over? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addtl: I used a 2 gallon kettle as the directions recommend. It's a 1 gallon kit and I used the instructed 5 quarts (1.25 gal) of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12293" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T11:17:53.787" Title="How would I handle a boil-over and loss of hops?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|boilover|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-10T18:49:15.517" Score="0" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out the best way to go about adding more honey to my honey ale. I recently purchased the White House Honey Ale kit from Northern Brewer and I'm seeing several reviews saying the honey flavor doesn't come through very well. It's a 1 gallon brew kit and has no secondary fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When/how would I go about adding more honey without the concern of the yeast just turning it into alchohol and leaving behind none of the honey flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12293" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T07:12:43.900" Title="How to add more honey to my honey ale?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|ale|honey|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15512" CreationDate="2015-06-10T18:53:10.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The beer won't be quite as bitter as expected. Don't give up on it, it may still be a perfectly good beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, preventing boilovers is discussed here: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1826/how-do-you-prevent-boil-overs&quot;&gt;How do you prevent boil-overs?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T18:53:10.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15513" CreationDate="2015-06-10T18:58:01.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honey is 100% sugar and will be entirely consumed by the yeast in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made mead a couple times with different varieties of honey. The honey flavor left after the fermentation is a very mild and dry sweetness, nothing like the flavor of raw honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T18:58:01.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15513" CreationDate="2015-06-11T07:12:43.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Weyermanns Abbey Malt adds honey flavour and aroma. There are other Honey Malts available, but I have not used them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add the malt to your mash or do a steep (depending on if your kit is all grain or extract).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T07:12:43.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15521" CreationDate="2015-06-11T09:36:53.963" Score="0" ViewCount="3471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my first attempt at fermenting &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.morebeer.com/products/rjs-craft-winemaking-grand-cru-international-australian-cabernet-sauvignon.html?site_id=9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this wine kit&lt;/a&gt; in mid-April.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed the initial directions pretty meticulously which included stirring in the fermentation bucket daily (due to kit including dried grape skins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hydrometer was reading a bit higher than reality, so the racking at ~1.020 might've been a bit behind. Almost for sure the racking at 0.998 was a late. At that point I stabilized according to instructions, racked it back into a 6 gallon carboy, and topped it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is when testing for clarity (which now seems fine) it has a very strong yeast smell, and somewhat strong yeast flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a young wine shouldn't taste &quot;ready&quot; yet, and I'd be happy to bottle and age if that's normal, but from most things I've read so far this isn't quite normal. (I'm not going for the &quot;on lees&quot; flavor since this is a Cabernet Sauvignon.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How &lt;strong&gt;yeasty&lt;/strong&gt; should a wine be before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anything be done to salvage this batch? What should be done to avoid this in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11945" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T16:09:59.567" Title="How to fix yeast smell in young wine from kit" Tags="|yeast|wine|off-flavor|kits|red-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15517" CreationDate="2015-06-11T09:47:18.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My plan of action is to test 11 fining agents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Albumex Bentonite&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bentonite&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Biofine Clear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Canaton Bentonite&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caseine Soluble&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colle Perle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cristalline Plus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inocolle Extra N1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polycacel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polyclar VT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sparkolloid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to do 50-100ml samples in 100ml beakers. Most likely I will store them loosely covered in the fridge (I'm not too worried about oxidation in testing). I'll &quot;rack&quot; from the storage beakers after the recommended duration for the particular agents and see if any result in a noticeable reduction in yeast flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has suggestions or comments on this process I'd love to hear them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11945" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T09:47:18.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15512" CreationDate="2015-06-11T11:17:53.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your boil sounds like it is more aggressive than it should be. You should try to achieve a &quot;rolling&quot; boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a lot of brewers keep a spray bottle of water next to their kettle. Spraying the water on the foam will cause it to fall back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, your beer will not be exactly the same as what it could be, but it is not a major issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some things you can also try: &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2014/05/03/avoiding-a-boil-over-when-home-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beersmith.com/blog/2014/05/03/avoiding-a-boil-over-when-home-brewing/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T11:17:53.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15517" CreationDate="2015-06-11T16:09:59.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with mead is that you should wait. What I do personnally is I bottle (I use twist-cap bottles which are not really air-tight), wait a few months and then siphon again to clean bottles, leaving just a bit more dead yeast at the bottom. My mead usually becomes really clear after about 8 months, and stops tasting yeasty at the same time. It's probably doable in a carboy, although it may take longer for the yeast to settle down. Whatever you do, don't move or shake the bottles or you're up for another two weeks of waiting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12254" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T16:09:59.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15537" CreationDate="2015-06-12T06:47:52.507" Score="2" ViewCount="1079" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an IPA that just won't seem to clear. I've done the standard cold-crash/gelatin fine, but it's still a bit cloudy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I try for it again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T12:10:08.577" Title="Is there any benefit (or detriment) to gelatin fining a beer twice?" Tags="|beer|fining|gelatin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-12T17:25:49.670" Score="2" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;My peach-apple oxidized a bit as I was juicing and started fermentation amber-brown.  Over two days of rapid fermentation with Safale US-O5 dry ale yeast, the color lightened to a pale yellow, straw color. Anyone know anything about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12304" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T15:02:38.037" Title="Lightening of Cider" Tags="|yeast|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-12T19:01:00.010" Score="3" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been in the winemaking industry for over a decade, but this is only my second homebrew, and only the first that I have fermented at home. You would think I'd be more patient working with a product that takes two years for completion, but alas...here we are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Primary fermentation was slooow. I split the batch with a friend and he was done in a week. Mine was a touch colder and ran closer to two. After the gravity stopped moving, I shoved the carboy into a fridge in an attempt to cold crash. The only change was I removed the airlock and sealed the typical orange cap. After about nine days, and no crystal clear clarity, I talked to a buddy who used to do this semi-pro and he recommended moving to a secondary and putting the airlock back on. So I did that, and in the process of racking I noticed the the residual carbon dioxide was fairly present. Winemaker me thinks that is the main culprit in keeping small amounts of lees in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now it's been three to four days later, and I'm seeing no appreciable gains. Is it just a waiting game?&#xA;If I keg it, will it eventually settle despite the increase in C02?&#xA;Should I clarify if it's that important to me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it will eventually clear in keg, that would be doable as I get to &quot;check on its progress&quot; when needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the idea of clarifying, but not if it strips the beer. I'm leaning toward Polyclar or maybe gelatin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast was WLP051 California V, listed as Medium to High floc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12306" LastEditorUserId="12306" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T20:59:49.657" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T05:10:27.433" Title="Clarity for the sake of impatience" Tags="|all-grain|secondary-fermentation|clarity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-13T22:52:50.677" Score="4" ViewCount="817" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading Graham Wheeler's Brew your own British ale, in which he says:&quot; a well brewed beer, kept its proper time, should not need priming or fining. A good yeast will clear down unaided, and residual dextrins in the beer will  slowly ferment and produce perfect condition......&quot;&#xA;I have tried this on a a couple of bottles of dry Irish stout which did come into condition after 10 weeks at lowish temps (5-14 degrees centigrade), though the carbonation/head was pretty weak compared with the (normally) primed others. I have tried the same with my ESB which has been bottled now for 8 weeks at the balmy English summer temps of 12-16 degrees centigrade. Bottles have started to condition now but head still weak..... Taste brilliant. (but more so than the bottles that were primed normally? I can't compare them cos I quaffed the whole primed lot and thus have nothing to compare the un-primed bottles with).&#xA;Just wondered if anybody else had experience of not priming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11889" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T12:04:32.137" Title="on not priming ale" Tags="|priming|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15527" CreationDate="2015-06-14T05:06:26.370" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that while this is by some considered the purest form of brewing, and good beer is attainable without adding finings or priming sugar, is it worth the additional effort and uncertainty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is certainly truth in not needing to prime some kinds of ales. Cask conditioned ale is often not primed, but simply transferred to the cask before primary fermentation is fully complete. There are also styles of beer, such as Stout and ESB that can have a very low carbonation level (1.5 vols CO2). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For beers that aren't low carbonation styles, I'm a little skeptical about the comment that the residual dextrins can provide sufficient sugar, since Ale yeast does not break down these dextrins in any significant quantity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my mind, adding a bit of priming sugar does no harm, has no affect on taste and helps consistently reach the desired level of carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T05:06:26.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15526" CreationDate="2015-06-14T05:10:27.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many causes of haze in beer. Here you're assuming that the haze is from the yeast, but it may be &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/hops/item/486-conquer-chill-haze&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chill haze&lt;/a&gt;, which takes a long time to settle out, if at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a sample of the beer and warm it to room temperature. If the haze disappears then you know it was chill haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T05:10:27.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15604" CreationDate="2015-06-15T00:17:40.470" Score="0" ViewCount="744" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the things I've read apples don't contain tartaric acid and some websites say to use malic acid and I've found 1 that says to use tartaric and not malic. Tartaric is more readily available to me, is there any good reasons I shouldn't use Tartaric acid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12310" LastEditorUserId="12310" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T03:44:15.123" LastActivityDate="2023-04-21T20:06:10.947" Title="Can I use tartaric acid in cider(apple wine) to decrease ph" Tags="|cider|acidity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15525" CreationDate="2015-06-15T02:57:40.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the color of yeast in suspension. When the yeast flocculate the color will go away and the cider should be clear. Also remember that when you're looking at a fermenter, you're looking through a lot more beer than you would see in a glass, so color and haze will appear more intense. The name of this phenomenon is easy to remember: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer%E2%80%93Lambert_law&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer's Law&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the yeast flocculate and the cider is clear, it will probably be ready to serve or bottle. Of course, check the gravity &amp;amp; taste to be sure there isn't too much sugar remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T02:57:40.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15527" CreationDate="2015-06-15T12:04:32.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used priming sugar for a few years now (having also read this book), but I always cask my beers rather than bottle. I transfer from the primary fermenter after one week, and I always end up with sufficient carbonation. This is probably because the yeast that is still in suspension and clearing down within the cask, is enough to produce the carbonation, and there will be enough residual sugars left over from primary fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The level of carbonation is bound to vary, even if you do prime. For example, some beers will have more residual sugars present after primary fermentation, and the yeast attenuation varies with the strain used. The type priming sugar will also have an effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also mentioned the head of your beer. It is possible to have good carbonation, but hardly any head formation/retention in your beer (I've experienced this in varying degrees). I believe it may have something to do with the proteins in the beer that allow the formation of the bubble structure, and can be affected by the types of grist in your recipe, as well as the mashing/sparging method.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12300" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T12:04:32.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15535" CreationDate="2015-06-15T12:56:04.483" Score="1" ViewCount="2581" Body="&lt;p&gt;My beer has been in the primary for about 5 days now. I can only assume fermentation has stopped as its reached peak krauzen and the froth seems to be subsiding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attempted to seal up my primary as best as possible after I added a new bung through which to feed a wire for my thermostat but there was inevitably going to be gaps as I didn't have the proper tools - as a result gas has not been exiting through the bubble air lock but I don't see this as a problem in itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to take a sample for FG testing but this will draw air in through the hole(s) - is this okay? Can I assume that very little, if any, CO2 will escape meaning that there will still be a CO2 layer on top of the beer to stop it oxygenating? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T15:09:51.867" Title="Is it bad to let air into my primary fermenter?" Tags="|co2|final-gravity|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15533" CreationDate="2015-06-15T13:13:52.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since CO2 is heavier than oxygen, it won't escape the container unless you have a wind blowing over the opening. Also, the beer will be generating more CO2 as i ferments, so even if any escapes, more will replace it. I don't think it would be a problem to leave a small hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T13:13:52.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15533" CreationDate="2015-06-15T15:05:45.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any way you take a sample (unless it's from a pressurized vessel with an outlet) will draw air in. As you suspect, it should be a small amount, and given that your beer A) may still be fermenting (which CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; will help strip any introduced oxygen out of the beer) and B) definitely still has yeast in it (which will scavenge oxygen, as long as it's still alive), &lt;strong&gt;it should be just fine&lt;/strong&gt;. If you prime and bottle-condition as well, the re-fermentation will give an added layer of protection from oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's always best practice to avoid contact of any kind with air, as even small amounts of oxygen can be damaging to the beer's flavor. The &lt;em&gt;'CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; blanket'&lt;/em&gt; often referred to is not a viable solution for keeping beer exposed to air (even just by small gaps around the lid/bung) safe from oxidation. While CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is indeed heavier than air, it, along with oxygen (and all other gasses), will always diffuse to take up the whole volume available for it, eventually making a homogenous mixture of the gasses present. Gasses also travel from areas of higher concentration to lower concentration (meaning CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; will tend to diffuse &lt;em&gt;out&lt;/em&gt; the gaps and air will tend to diffuse &lt;em&gt;in&lt;/em&gt;). In other words, any air that gets in will not simply sit atop the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, but will rather mix with it until the whole head-space volume is an even mixture of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; and any introduced air (letting air touch the beer/head-space boundary and hence enter the beer), and this will continue until the gasses on either side of the leak are in equilibrium (these behaviors are described by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ideal gas law&lt;/a&gt;). Luckily, this takes a while and may be of little consequence to the quality of your beer if you don't leave it too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T15:09:51.867" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T15:09:51.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14908" CreationDate="2015-06-15T16:10:44.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that some more information is needed to see if this licorice flavor is actually to be expected in your beer style you brewed, but to offer an initial response to what the possible cause was, phenols from yeast production could cause anise (licorice) flavors. These can be produced when fermentation temperatures have gotten a little warmer than they should be. Reducing fermentation temps with a temperature controlled ferm chamber or a swamp cooler could help you keep off-flavors from yeast down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/esters-and-phenols-in-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/esters-and-phenols-in-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12312" LastEditorUserId="12312" LastEditDate="2017-07-11T19:11:28.020" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T19:11:28.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15523" CreationDate="2015-06-15T16:13:26.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's certainly no harm in trying it again. Any gelatin you add will sink to the bottom regardless of whether or not it takes any haze-causing particles with it. In my experience, different beers have vastly different requirements for fining, some needing several times as much fining as an easy-to-fine one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things about IPAs and haze: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hops, whether added in the boil or as dry-hops, proportionally increase the polyphenol content of wort and beer and, depending on the beer's protein level, may contribute to haze. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A dry-hopped IPA probably has a comparatively higher lipid content (from aromatic hop oils) and this may contribute a light haze in the form of a colloidal suspension of the oil. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I'm not particularly sure from my own experience how well gelatin will work in these specific cases, but I don't see the downside in trying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T16:13:26.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15538" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T19:11:45.690" Score="1" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to brew 5 gal of Dunkelweizen. I used instructions from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/Dunkelweizen.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dunkelweizen&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the OG of 1080 after cool down the wort. It should be 1050-1053.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do in order to decrease the OG? What will happen if I don't do something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8186" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T20:53:25.277" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T05:10:23.797" Title="Can I decrease Original Gravity of the beer during fermentation process?" Tags="|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15374" CreationDate="2015-06-15T19:18:09.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the major points of making wine is to make an &lt;em&gt;alcoholic&lt;/em&gt; beverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary fermentation stage is when the majority of the fermentable sugar in the must is converted by Saccharomyces yeast, through fermentation, into ethanol and CO2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C&lt;sub&gt;6&lt;/sub&gt;H&lt;sub&gt;12&lt;/sub&gt;O&lt;sub&gt;6&lt;/sub&gt; -&gt; 2C&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;H&lt;sub&gt;5&lt;/sub&gt;OH + 2CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T19:28:27.093" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T19:28:27.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15422" CreationDate="2015-06-15T19:34:29.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is anecdotal, but I have used PET/PETE water cooler bottles as fermentors side-by-side with Better Bottles, and have noticed no difference in oxidation rates between the two over four to six months. Both are marked with U.S. recycling symbol #1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the primary determinant of oxygen permeability with PET/PETE is its wall thickness, and I am not aware of any fermentor or water bottle manufacturer who is sandwiching any layer in the middle of the sidewall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, as Better Bottle states on their site, the oxygen permeating through the liquid in the airlock vastly outweighs the oxygen permeating through the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be manufactured better on a Better Bottle is the neck. Better Bottle makes a big deal about how close the tolerance is on their bottle necks, thereby allowing a near-perfect seal with their closure, relative to any glass carboy. I don't know if other PET bottle manufacturers achieve the same tolerances as Better Bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3950" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T19:34:29.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15538" CreationDate="2015-06-15T20:56:52.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you used extract, and you didn't dramatically change the water volumes or add any additional fermentables, then it's highly unlikely that your gravity is that far off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual cause with this sort of process is incomplete mixing of the boiled portion added to the water in the carboy, leading you to get a sample of the exceptionally-concentrated boiled wort rather than well-mixed wort. Does this seem likely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T20:56:52.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15538" CreationDate="2015-06-15T21:30:18.130" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: No.  That's why it's called &quot;Original Gravity&quot;.  It's actually the specific gravity of your wort before fermentation starts.  There are a couple of things that could have happened. 1) you didn't let the wort cool to 60 degrees F to read your hydrometer or 2) you didn't have 5 gallons of wort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T21:30:18.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15523" CreationDate="2015-06-15T21:50:08.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's actually hard to say without knowing a few things.  Did you use all barley?  Wheat will make your beer cloudy. Did you dry hop with pellets?  If so, chill your secondary fermentor before you rack your beer over to kegs or bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T21:50:08.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15538" CreationDate="2015-06-16T04:37:45.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can, of course decrease it by adding water......this calculator will help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://merrycuss.com/calc/gravityadjustmentwater.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://merrycuss.com/calc/gravityadjustmentwater.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't decrease your gravity a couple of things could happen.  First, your yeast might not work, usually different (or more) yeasts are used for high gravity brews.  If your yeast does work it might not attenuate fully.  Or it might end up attenuating fully and your final ABV will be quite a bit higher than expected.  It's really impossible to say what's going to happen with any more certainty based on the information you've given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12176" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T04:37:45.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15538" CreationDate="2015-06-16T04:41:20.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Practically speaking, if this had just happened to you, you could dilute out your wort with water, although this would mess up your volume, and dilute out everything, including some other ingredients which may be at the right concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to do that though, let's say your target volume is 5 gallons, and you have 5 gallons of real OG (ROG) greater than target OG (TOG).  Then, ignoring all other concerns of overdiluting other ingredients and sanitation concerns, you would want to dump out (1 - (TOG-1)/(ROG-1))*5 gallons of your wort, and replace with the same volume of water.  To use your #s as an example, (1 - (.053/.08))*5 = 1.69 gallons!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies for mathiness.  The result will be that you have diluted to the amount to reach your TOG, and have maintained the target volume.  And you will have sadly dumped out some precious wort!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12311" LastEditorUserId="12311" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T05:10:23.797" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T05:10:23.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15548" CreationDate="2015-06-16T08:04:49.843" Score="1" ViewCount="969" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't oxygenate on brew day, is it too late or can you oxygenate late? If so, are there limits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T22:16:08.063" Title="Is oxygenating after brew day okay?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15546" CreationDate="2015-06-16T11:32:25.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once fermentation has started it is usually not recommended to add oxygen. Exceptions: When brewing a high alcohol beer you may add oxygen up to 12 hours after pitching, but not afterwords. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast will consume oxygen during the initial fermentation phase. After that the oxygen stays around to stale your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T11:32:25.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15546" CreationDate="2015-06-16T12:41:33.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast need the oxygen to grow and reproduce, which is important for the first stage of primary fermentation when the yeast is multiplying and inhabiting your wort, which you want to happen as quickly as possible to avoid risk of infection when the wort is cool, exposed to air and does not yet have a protective yeast head. Unless you're brewing a high gravity beer, you should avoid introduction of oxygen at any point after this as it will lead to staling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you forget to oxygenate on brew day, I bet that chances are there is enough oxygen present for some yeast growth, simply by the physical act of transfering wort from boiler to fermentation vessel, but this depends on your technique. If you started your yeast off in a starter, even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this website for more technical info: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-3.html&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12300" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T12:41:33.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T12:58:30.183" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a sparkling elderflower drink that relies on the natural yeasts present on the flowers/stalks to carbonate the drink after it has been transferred to bottles (swing-top type). There is sufficient sugar in the recipe, and this has worked for me in the past, but I've read that this sometimes doesn't work. Is there a way to carbonate an already-bottled drink that is flat, without affecting alcohol content or flavour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ingredients for 4.5 litres is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 elderflower heads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;750 g sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 lemons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 table spoons wine vinegar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12300" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T15:15:03.870" Title="How to artifically carbonate sparkling elderflower?" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15551" CreationDate="2015-06-16T13:38:20.817" Score="4" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a keg about 1/4 full of Black IPA (delicious) and I have been hooking up co2 when I want a pint of it, to save on co2 because there is a noticeable leak in the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked up some keg lube the other day and my question is, is it al right if I pop the lid off and lube the o-ring (the o-ring looks in great condition) up and snap the lid back in place or will that ruin the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10679" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T14:32:17.610" Title="Leaky soda keg - has beer in it" Tags="|kegging|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15550" CreationDate="2015-06-16T14:32:17.610" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it will not. A concern you might have if the keg was full would be the sudden foaming as you depressurize, which might overflow the keg. But at 1/4 full, no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned about O₂, don't be. You'll have a keg full of heavy CO₂, and will only open the lid for a few moments, not enough time for any substantial O₂ to mix in.  If you're concerned, vent the headspace a couple/few times after you re-seal and re-pressurize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, some keg lids, in my experience, seal better in one orientation vs. the opposite one. Perhaps just rotate the lid 180° and see if it seals better that way, without lube, to start off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T14:32:17.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15549" CreationDate="2015-06-16T15:13:07.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll assume this is not a very foamy beverage, and say: carbonate it like homemade &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sodastream.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;soda&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW- carbonation makes a drink more tart, so the flavor will change a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T15:13:07.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15549" CreationDate="2015-06-16T15:15:03.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short: not with what you want to use. The carbonation (CO2) is formed as a by-product of alcohol forming from the yeast eating the sugar (less sugar and more alcohol = altered flavour)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a way of doing it, using compressed CO2. This requires a carbonator and CO2 cartridges. It is worth the investment if you want to use the carbonator a lot, but if it's only to save one batch, I (poor) would consider drinking it flat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12254" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T15:15:03.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T16:03:22.673" Score="6" ViewCount="2052" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was making a Two Hearted Clone (an IPA). I boiled 1 oz centennial hops for 60 min, then 1/2 ounce for 15 min, then 1 oz for 10 min, then 1oz for 5 min for a total of 90 minutes.  I was supposed to boil for a total of 60 minutes adding each set of hops with the specified amount of boil time left.  How will this mistake affect my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12316" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T14:43:18.680" Title="What if I accidentally boiled for 90 minutes?" Tags="|hops|wort|recipe|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15554" CreationDate="2015-06-16T16:20:29.273" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely not a problem.  You will gain just a bit of extra bitterness by boiling longer, but so little that I doubt you could notice it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T16:40:26.407" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T16:40:26.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15554" CreationDate="2015-06-16T21:48:42.117" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always boil my IPA for 90 minutes and start the hop additions at the 60 minute mark.  This will give you a bit of a toffee character to your beer because the sugars in the wort will caramelize a little more.  For some recipes, like a Scotch Ale, I'll take some (a couple of quarts) of my first runnings and boil that while I'm sparging and add it near the end of the boil.  It'll leave your friends scratching their heads wondering why it's so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T21:48:42.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15554" CreationDate="2015-06-17T00:13:23.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting too (since this is an IPA) that in addition to the added bitterness, you will also lose a small amount of hop aroma from your last three additions. Late-addition hops are meant to go in late enough to minimize loss of volatile aromatic hop oils which are very prone to disappear as they evaporate during the boil. Of course (as already noted) there is really no detriment to this at all, but if you &lt;em&gt;wanted&lt;/em&gt; to try to make up for it you could consider adding a larger amount of dry hops than called for (maybe + 10-20%), if you have them on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T00:13:23.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3056" CreationDate="2015-06-17T17:31:05.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really don't want rinse aid on your bottles. My dishwasher rinse aid reservoir has a little dial (meant to control level of rinse aid being dispensed) that I can turn &lt;em&gt;off&lt;/em&gt; for sanitizing bottles. Every dishwasher is different, so check yours, under the cap? &#xA;In lieu of this, if your rinse aid dispenses out a hole instead of through threading in the cap, you can plug that with a tight fitting cork or rubber plug. And finally, if all else fails, you can either try to timing the bottling of your beer with your dishwasher naturally running out of rinse aid (good luck with that!), or &quot;rinse&quot; out the rinse aid by overfilling it with water repeatedly and opening/ shutting the door to try and flush it out. Not the most effective method, but better than coating bottles with a light film of surfactant that has the potential to affect head and flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12321" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T17:31:05.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15554" CreationDate="2015-06-18T01:15:12.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Further to the other responses your beer is also likely to be darker than expected due to the longer time for Maillard reaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maillard_reaction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maillard_reaction&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12176" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T01:15:12.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15563" CreationDate="2015-06-18T08:42:51.467" Score="1" ViewCount="767" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday i bottled my first brew. I put the bottles in a box in my room. There is a thermometer inside the box, it reads 25°C. I've read before that the it should be in 18°C - 24°C range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will 25°C affect taste and/or flavor? Although i believe i gave enough room for CO2, i don't want to have bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can i do to lower the temperature? I thought about putting the bottles in a bucket and filling the bucket with cold tap water. Will this work? Do you have any other ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed a Mr. Beer Aztec Mexican Cerveza. The fermentation temperature was around 23°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12232" LastEditorUserId="12232" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T09:12:38.423" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T10:56:00.037" Title="Bottle conditioning / carbonation temperature" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15562" CreationDate="2015-06-18T09:51:48.513" Score="1" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started a brew with an OG of 1.065 in a 23L batch. I pitched a rehydrated 11g pack of US-05 and after 5 days I took a FG reading when I observed no bubbles after some time; it came out at 1.028 - quite a bit higher than expected (target FG is 1.012).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I upped the temperature of my fermenter having realised I only set it at 17degC (oops, I meant to do 19degC but I'm hoping it won't be too much of a problem - it's a versatile yeast I hear!) as well as doing a pretty vigorous swirl of the fermenter to kick up some of the yeast cake. Came back a few hours later, hoorah, bubbles! I'm aware that bubble rate is a terrible way of judging fermentation stage (atmospheric temperature and pressure being factors but both have been consistent over the past week) but going from no bubbles to bubbles after doing this can only be a good thing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was/am a bit worried that I didn't pitch enough yeast for this OG since the Brewers' Friend yeast pitch calculator said I was short by about half the cells required - maybe I'm just being paranoid?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question(s) - Will I be okay in getting nearer to my FG? In general, from experience or otherwise, what are the upper limits on OG and batch size for an 11g packet of US-05 before I need to think about adding a 2nd packet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T10:52:21.200" Title="What is the approximate batch size/OG limit for US-05 11g packet? Have I used enough?" Tags="|yeast|original-gravity|batch-size|pitching-rate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15561" CreationDate="2015-06-18T10:52:21.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory a 11g packet contains 220 billion cells, which should do fine for an 18 liter batch. 23 is not such a big difference, so I am sure you are not in any major risk area. With re-hydration you should be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure that, with the rousing, your beer will get closer to panned FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, when rousing the yeast bed you will also stir up a lot of CO2 that is captured in the bed, which may look like immediate fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My highest I have gone with 11g was 18 liters, OG: 1.085. I have done another beer that was 1.1+ with Nottingham yeast, but I think that beer was a fluke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: Check your hydrometer. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T10:52:21.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15560" CreationDate="2015-06-18T10:56:00.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer needs to be warmer when you bottle condition. This allows the yeast to work hard at getting the priming sugar into CO2. However, too warm and the beer will stale faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend moving the box to a cooler area of the house (like a cupboard that is not against a wall that gets direct sunlight). DO NOT COOL THE BEER! Leave it for two weeks, then put a bottle in the fridge to chill and see if it carbonated enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise just hide the beers under your bed for the next two weeks. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T10:56:00.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15554" CreationDate="2015-06-18T11:00:21.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your OG will be higher than expected as you have boiled off a bit more wort than planned. This will... give you more alcohol, which is ok. :) Unfortunately this also means less beer going into the fermenter and less beer going into bottles/kegs. :( Due to boil off your beer will have more body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have more caramel/toasty notes due to the prolonged boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bitterness might be a bit bigger, as Danny mentioned, but the condensed malt and alcohol should balance that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T11:00:21.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T11:50:11.700" Score="1" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been given some more wine stuff to add to my collection. In the goodies there are 2 fermenting bottles with wine in it.(strawberry wine) they have been in the bottles just over 4 years . I was told if I filter it it will be ok to drink. Is that ok or shall I play it safe and poor it away.&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12323" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T12:28:40.123" Title="wine left to ferment" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15523" CreationDate="2015-06-18T12:10:08.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have already gelatin fined your brew once, then it may be that the haze is not being caused by yeast in suspension, which gelatin is intended to tackle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible alternative is that your beer is hazy due to long proteins in suspension and a different fining agent is required to tackle this issue. Polyclar is one such agent and can be added after fermentation in primary  / secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12324" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T12:10:08.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15565" CreationDate="2015-06-18T12:28:40.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wine will not start being poisonous after years of being in the bottle. If it is wood alcohol, it could, but if you know where it comes from, there is no harm in tasting it. If it does taste bad, pour it away and call it a day, if it tastes good, enjoy your fruit wine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR; It should be safe to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12254" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T12:28:40.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15570" CreationDate="2015-06-18T13:02:06.787" Score="3" ViewCount="964" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Premise&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a chemical engineering student, I tried my best to avoid any chemical at all (&lt;em&gt;When they say trust me, you should never do so&lt;/em&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, I resorted to steam to sanitize my fermenter and bottles. However, the steam comes out of the household appliance with a plastic scent to it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know, by fact, that this indicates a presence of plastic degradation molecules: however, I still tried sanitizing a part of the bottles this way as the fermenter, which I had first tested the appliance on, produced a healthy (I hope...) wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How safe would that beer be&lt;/strong&gt;? Also, can anybody provide me with real-world data on the sanitation-water temperature-soaking time for &lt;strong&gt;hot tap water&lt;/strong&gt;? (That is, soaking in 25°C water of course will never work, regardless of time, but I believe 60°C would work over 30 minutes, and 45°C should work over 1 hour)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how high are the odds of wort infection for 1 minutes of 45°C hot water soaking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Brew Data&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Malt extract &amp;amp; Yeast: Cooper Lager kit&lt;br&gt;&#xA;OG: .034&#xA;FG: .010&#xA;Fermentation vessel material: stainless steel&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bottle material: glass&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cap material: Half the bottles have ceramic caps, half have tin and plastic ones&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fermentation average temperature: 26°C&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Signs of wort infection: none&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12325" LastEditorUserId="12325" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T13:14:38.340" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T14:35:10.123" Title="Steam sanitation of a stainless steel fermenter and bottles" Tags="|beer|techniques|sanitation|fermenter|bottle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12942" CreationDate="2015-06-18T13:49:48.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IT MAY NOT BE STAINLESS ANYMORE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the huge emphasis and the absurd caps, but I'm reading some... odd statements.&#xA;I should point out I'm in chemical engineering, and did cooperate with experts in metallurgy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Stainless steel chemistry&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stainless steel is such because it does not rust, as everyone knows.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rust, as many know, is the oxidation of iron.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What few know is why stainless steel does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; rust: the answer is, &lt;strong&gt;chromium&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Steel, to be classified as stainless, requires at least 10.5% of chromium content in mass (not volume, you'll see why in a little).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chrome oxides on the surface do not oxide further (due to their extremely high oxidation potential), and protect the underlying layers of iron and carbon. This is called &lt;em&gt;passivation&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What only people in the business know is that to produce those oxides, strong alkalis are used&lt;/strong&gt; (commonly, other procedures are possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You've removed the surface of chrome oxides&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This layer is so thin it is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;invisible&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to the naked eye, and only crystallographic measures can reveal its status when it is present.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What's easier to see is its absence: &lt;strong&gt;rust&lt;/strong&gt; forms in those points.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fine grain polishing won't fix your problem.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Looking the same as stainless steel doesn't make it stainless steel, as looking the same as gold doesn't make it gold&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try to weld some stainless steel, you'll see this process very distinctly: as you lower the chromium ratio adding carbon (from combustion, if you're using it) and migrating iron (by the very definition of welding: you're adding material, even when joining two pieces), rust attacks the welds first, to later spread under the passivation layer to the whole piece. That's the reason MIG and TIG welding techniques were invented, and Friction Stir Welding is making leaps forwards: it works with &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; metals (as it relies on the metal phase uniformity), requires no chemical and no added material, and does not alter chemical composition (but it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; alter the crystal structure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;You said &lt;em&gt;may not be stainless&lt;/em&gt; !&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on how much material they have sanded: as the chromium lies mostly on the surface (hence the reason the volume percentage is not important), there may be a &lt;strong&gt;veeeeery&lt;/strong&gt; thin layer left. I wouldn't bet a coffee on it, 'tho. Furthermore, the layer may not be everywhere as thin as required, even being absent in some points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;You can fix it !&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As passivation is a process, you can apply that process to your item! Look up a business to do it for you, it shouldn't have a huge cost. If the reinforcing bands at the base are made of wood, those will have to be taken off and then placed back on: ask if they can do that for you, and if so at which price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally, a nitric acid bath and further oxidizers were used to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strip away rust that hasn't been sanded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Promote oxidation of the chromium atoms in the alloy, restoring the passivation layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too bad that this process was polluting and hazardous. It has interesting interactions (explosions) with some organic compounds, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately today a cleaner, safer, cheaper, more effective solution exists: citric acid.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yes, it's &lt;strong&gt;that&lt;/strong&gt; citric acid: the citrus juice one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In high enough concentration, not only is it a food-safe preservative, but also a passivating agent for stainless steel.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chrome layer, when using this acid, is actually restored by the spontaneous oxidation of chrome in the now-exposed alloy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't even consider a nitric passivation for your brewing equipment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12325" LastEditorUserId="12325" LastEditDate="2017-02-24T19:30:08.673" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T19:30:08.673" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15568" CreationDate="2015-06-18T14:35:10.123" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;How safe would that beer be?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's steam coming from a commercial appliance (presumably a dish-washer or some other such food-grade device) it wouldn't be any less safe than eating off a dish that came through it. What you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; see is a small carry-over of that plastic-y scent into your beer from residuals left after draining. Unsafe? No. Inappropriate flavor for a beer? Probably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;...sanitation-water temperature-soaking time for hot tap water?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbaa.com/publications/tq/tqPastIssues/2005/Abstracts/TQ-42-0054.htm&quot;&gt;often-cited figure&lt;/a&gt; for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbaa.com/publications/tq/tqPastIssues/2004/Abstracts/1218-01.htm&quot;&gt;commercial-grade sanitizing&lt;/a&gt; with hot water is &lt;strong&gt;30 minutes at 80-85°C, with an additional 5 minutes per degree C the water used is colder than 80°C&lt;/strong&gt;. I'm sure this is over-kill for you but it gives you an idea of the heat and length of contact needed for it to be truly effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think you'd want to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; reach 60°C (140°F) to get some level of sanitizing in a reasonable time (30 min.), but of course this depends entirely on how hot your tap water is. Remember, too, that filling a vessel with water at a certain temperature is not the same as soaking the vessel &lt;em&gt;at&lt;/em&gt; that temperature for a specified time, since the water will lose quite a bit of heat as it sits. If 60°C isn't possible, you really won't even approach the effectiveness of chemical sanitizers or proper heat treatment. Note: the above measures (30 min. @ 80°C) should be comparable in effectiveness to properly applied chemical sanitizers, most of which are available to us home-brewers (iodophor, PAA, StarSan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below 60°C may still be just fine for your needs, as a combination of good cleaning and the inhospitable environment of fermenting beer may be able to keep infections down. But you're likely to run into issues long term, and learning good sanitation up front is basically the best favor you can do yourself when starting out brewing, so I really don't recommend getting used to using ineffective sanitizing techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;[H]ow high are the odds of wort infection for 1 minutes of 45°C hot water soaking?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really depends on the cleanliness of the equipment you're sanitizing, as there might not even be a large microbe load to reduce, but 45°C (113°F) is not likely to do &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; in one minute, much less over the course of an hour. It might even serve to incubate microbes (in a moist environment no less) or introduce more microbes (from the water) than were originally present. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T14:35:10.123" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15573" CreationDate="2015-06-18T17:52:04.397" Score="2" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for well known and well respected authors.  Something that has an A-Z format, if you will, and history of home brewing or something of the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6691" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T15:32:28.880" Title="What are some good starter books to learn how to brew beer?" Tags="|beginner|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15546" CreationDate="2015-06-18T22:16:08.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience as as professional brewer and home brewer leads me to suggest that oxygen is not detrimental to beer flavor unless yeast activity is in decline (i.e., after vigorous fermentation has subsided). So if you have forgotten to oxygenate, go ahead and do so as long as your beer has yet to achieve high krausen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T22:16:08.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15571" CreationDate="2015-06-18T22:23:26.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Joy of Homebrewing by Charlie Papazian. This is the only intro you'll need to successfully inoculate yourself into the beer making culture. Relax, don't worry, and have a homebrew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T22:23:26.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15571" CreationDate="2015-06-19T06:27:13.083" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to Brew: Everything You Need To Know To Brew Beer Right The First Time by John J. Palmer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12232" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T06:27:13.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15571" CreationDate="2015-06-19T14:07:42.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to buy a physical book, John Palmer has a website which is full of info, including step-by-step guides for different brewing techniques, as well as a lot of technical detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/sitemap.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/sitemap.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I have read, and re-read, &quot;Brew Your Own British Real Ale&quot; by Graham Wheeler. Whilst it has a focus on British styles, including recipe of many well- known ales, the guides are very useful for brewing ale in general. The writing is thorough, but concise, with a no-nonsense approach, which I personally appreciate. It allowed me to take the plunge from extract based ales to all grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12300" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T14:07:42.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-19T15:04:00.170" Score="4" ViewCount="3190" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxdbV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently bottled a sparkling elderflower drink (sometimes referred to as Country Champagne or something similar). Together with the elderflowers, it contains water, sugar, lemons and a little wine vinegar, and it relies on naturally occurring yeasts to ferment a bit of the sugar and produce the carbonation in the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the bottles have white stuff at the top and bottom of the liquid (which is perfectly clear other than this), and a little in suspension, which I suspect is a form of mold. If I taste it and the taste is not affected, is it safe to drink?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12300" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T20:12:37.417" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T20:12:37.417" Title="Suspected mold in elderflower country champagne" Tags="|mold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-19T15:11:54.087" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Goal is to make a root beer with a ABV similar to your everyday beer or maybe stronger. (4-10%) I am newer to homebrewing so most of my experience comes from using Kits. My approach was going to be to use a Wheat Beer Kit (ABV 5.2%) and before starting the Fermentation process I would add some Root beer extract.&#xA;Any suggestions or Tips would be Greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12328" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T16:00:41.390" Title="Alcoholic RootBeer" Tags="|beginner|wheat-beer|root-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-06-22T16:57:41.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15571" CreationDate="2015-06-19T15:53:43.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I still really like Home Brew Beer by Greg Hughes. There is a recipe for nearly every style in there as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11868" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T15:53:43.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15577" CreationDate="2015-06-19T16:00:41.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how you like your root beer, but to get a taste similar to commercial root beers, you'll need a completely different recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a related question: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/565/how-would-i-make-alcoholic-rootbeer&quot;&gt;How would I make Alcoholic Rootbeer?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T16:00:41.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2015-06-19T20:01:09.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use two of the above methods. &#xA;I purchase two gallons of purified water and put them in the freezer. I get them slushy and add them to my wort while it sits in a sink of cold water with two bags of ice added. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far so good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12330" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T20:01:09.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-20T03:44:54.420" Score="1" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here recently me and my have been discussing going into selling hops over seas where there is a demand for them. That being said would it be better to buy land and grow,or buy from local farmers? we have a hops commissioner here in which im going into this coming week i just came across this forum, so i thought i would ask...... thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12332" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T07:00:30.077" Title="what is the best way to acquire hops for exporting" Tags="|commercial|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15581" CreationDate="2015-06-20T16:28:38.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have millions of dollars, you don't want to buy land and grow hops.  It's simply not as easy as just &quot;growing hops&quot;.  You also have to have processing facilities.  You should contact a major wholesaler like Hopunion or S.S. Steiner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T16:28:38.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2308" CreationDate="2015-06-20T17:24:45.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of a opening a dump valve to drop the trub into a container full of air, why not Just leave the valve open and let the trub settle into the container? When you want to isolate the beer from the trub, you could just close the valve. Then you can unscrew the container and havest the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12334" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T17:24:45.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15581" CreationDate="2015-06-21T00:16:47.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Denny's points, you could see if your own region has something similar to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northeasthopalliance.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Northeast Hop Alliance&lt;/a&gt; or whether any nearby agricultural colleges have programs like UVM's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uvm.edu/extension/cropsoil/hops&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vermont Hops Project&lt;/a&gt; (to use examples local to me). You may be able to find a good deal of up-to-date research and information on breeding, growing, processing, marketing and selling hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T00:16:47.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T05:06:55.100" Score="1" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently obtained a bottle caper, some sassafrass bark chips, and some root beer extract flavoring from a coupling moving out. It also contained a recipe for rootbeer(non-alcoholic), listed below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beginners Quick Bottling Recipe: Uses 2 used 2-L plastic soda bottles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/8 teaspoon dry yeast, in a 6oz cup of warm water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 &amp;amp; 1/4 cups sugar, 1 tablespoon extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix in 1 gallon container&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour 1/2 mixture in each soda bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top off each bottle with plain water to within 1 &amp;amp; 1/2 inches of top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use resealable cap and shake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;store at room temp in the 70's for 4-6 days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How would I modify this recipe to allow for the soda to be alcoholic AND also be stored in smaller used beer glass bottles?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing some of my own research, and only having made &quot;hooch&quot; before I assume that I could simply add more yeast and sugar to allow for more alcohol, but then regardless how would I deal with a loss of carbonation when decanting my product from the 2 L bottles to the smaller glass bottles, or the possible risk of still active yeast? I do not have access to alot of fancy equipment like kegs or carbonators, not even a siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12336" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T05:06:55.100" Title="Modifying root beer recipe to alcoholic variant?" Tags="|root-beer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-06-24T13:16:30.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T07:21:02.933" Score="1" ViewCount="9126" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 10 days ago I made some elderflower syrup. I used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;350g of elderflower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 liters of water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8kg of sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;160g of citric acid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 lemons cut in pieces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left everything macerate for 2 days and then filtered it. I didn't boil the syrup, I simply put it into bottles (I followed the recipe given me from a friend who said boiling wasn't required in the end). I've noticed that in the last few days the remaining bottles (about 5 liters) have started fermenting and I can smell some alcohol from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I wonder, is it possible to obtain some alcoholic beverage from such bottles of syrup? Which steps should I take to avoid throwing the syrup in the trash? (Note: I have &lt;em&gt;zero&lt;/em&gt; experience in brewing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12337" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T05:01:01.883" Title="My elderflower syrup has (unexpectedly) started fermenting. How should I handle this to obtain something drinkable?" Tags="|fermentation|first-time-brewer|brewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15586" CreationDate="2015-06-21T14:36:15.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wild yeast must have gotten into the bottles, and yeast will ferment any simple sugar solution. Depending how long fermentation has been going you might already have some weird wild yeast-derived off-flavors, but hopefully you're catching this early enough to save the batch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would pasteurize them in the bottles to kill off the yeast:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place all of the bottles into a large kettle of water that comes up to the bottom of the neck of the bottles. (Do this in batches if you don't have a large enough kettle.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open one bottle and place a clean thermometer / thermometer probe into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start heating the water, until the thermometer reads 72ºC / 160ºF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hold at that temperature for a couple of minutes, then turn off the heat and let the bottles come back to room temp. (Reseal the opened bottle as soon as you can, and I would use that bottle before the others since it's been opened.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12338" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T14:36:15.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15554" CreationDate="2015-06-21T14:43:18.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry, this is a relatively minor problem (and a common mistake for new brewers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do a 90 minute boil on &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; beer, and strongly believe there is science to back up doing a 90 over a 60 for all beers (not just those using high amounts of pils malt to drive off DMS).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I still do my 60m. bittering hop addition @ 60m. If your bittering hops were in the boil for longer than that you will get a higher level of IBUs in your finished beer. Only you can decide if that is a bad thing; it certainly won't make &quot;bad beer&quot; but it will be more bitter than the recipe called for, than you expected, or that the style allows for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12338" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T14:43:18.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3056" CreationDate="2015-06-21T14:45:21.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you not just put the bottles on a dry cycle, which uses heat but no water? If you put the bottles in wet (or if you pour a little water in the bottom of the dishwasher before starting it) you will get steaming action to help with the sanitization, but it's really the heat you need not the cleaning action of the dishwasher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12338" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T14:45:21.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13115" CreationDate="2015-06-21T14:51:11.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suggestion: use gelatin to fine this beer. Gelatin works great at fining, and is especially effective when the beer is in the keg and at serving temperature already. (If you want to get rid of chill haze, the chill haze has to be present!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12338" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T14:51:11.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T17:35:01.693" Score="1" ViewCount="485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of cold crashing my current brew, but I am not comfortable with the idea of allowing sanitizer to be sucked in, and I'm not happy with foil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that maybe there are micro foam bungs or some sort of filter, but struggling to find such a thing on the googles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone use these things? Know what they are called so I can find them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T14:01:16.603" Title="Filtering air intake during cold crash" Tags="|airlock|clarification|airtight|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15593" CreationDate="2015-06-21T18:01:41.087" Score="1" ViewCount="14284" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time brewing and I only started yesterday, so I'm still very much a novice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bubbler airlock on my 33 litre fermenting bucket, like the one in this image:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HXJrw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bubbler Airlock&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I filled it up to about 50% at each side and left the bucket overnight, when I checked it around 7 hours later, it had become empty on one side (right side if that matters). I filled it back up to 50% each side and went off to work, when I checked it just now (10 hours later), it's the same as it was this morning, 50% full on the left side and empty on the right side. I'm currently brewing 20 litres (40 pints) of cider and the temperate in the cupboard is around 18c - 20c, fairly consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this how the airlock should function? Am I suppose to leave one side empty and have the other half full? Or do I need to keep topping it up with water every 6-8 hours or so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help you can provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12339" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T15:39:14.577" Title="My airlock keeps becoming empty on one side, is that normal?" Tags="|water|airlock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15592" CreationDate="2015-06-22T01:02:09.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Totally normal.  C02 is SLOWLY pushing the water to the opposite side of the lock.  As fermentation starts to &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; kick in, you'll see much more movement and &quot;bubbling&quot; in the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12341" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T01:02:09.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15591" CreationDate="2015-06-22T04:51:59.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Northern brewer has them in starter supplies. That said star san becomes yeast nutrient in contact with wort or beer. This from Charlie Tally interview on BN in '07. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12342" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T17:02:23.580" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T17:02:23.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15581" CreationDate="2015-06-22T07:00:30.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also bear in mind that exporting means that you have to adhere to the rules and regulations of the country that you are exporting to. This means providing certificates to ensure that the product meets their safety requirements. For instance: America has a type of mite that can kill all of South Africa's hops, so if you want to being hops from USA into SA, you have to provide them with proper documentation that the hops does not carry that mite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add a bit to Denny's points: If you plant hops, your first year will have very low yield, so expect at least one year of low/no income.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you been to a hop farm? There is a surprising amount of construction required for the hops to GROW! Trellises and irrigation is critical. And then there is harvesting, cleaning, processing, packaging, storing! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be aware of the whole process. There might be some unexpected, very expensive lessons if you do not do all your research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your venture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T07:00:30.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15586" CreationDate="2015-06-22T15:18:23.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use Campden tablets (Potassium or Sodium Metabisulfite) or equivalent product available from your local home brew store, dissolved in a little water (and a bit added to each bottle), to inhibit wild yeast if you don't want any alcohol produced. I can't tell you the exact quantity you would need however.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12300" LastEditorUserId="12300" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T14:23:00.860" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T14:23:00.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15592" CreationDate="2015-06-22T15:39:14.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to keep topping up with water. As long as there is some water inside the airlock, there is a barrier to the outside environment allowing the generated carbon dioxide to escape but not allowing unwanted air in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12300" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T15:39:14.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15625" CreationDate="2015-06-22T22:43:34.320" Score="3" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone guess at how to build a clone recipe? Its for Duclaws &lt;a href=&quot;http://duclaw.com/beer/sweet-baby-jesus/#sthash.ypwRgVp1.dpuf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sweet Baby Jesus&lt;/a&gt;, a friend requested a clone. Their website only says it's a Black beer, a Chocolate Peanut Butter Porter. Their website only lists the types of grains and hops, but not the amounts. I'm guessing there would be various adjuncts, probably both in the boil and &quot;dry hopping&quot; with the coffee (I've done dry coffee grounds before). I'm not sure where the peanut butter flavor would come from though. I can probably guess at the hops, but the grains is where I'd need help, and the peanut butter, that is a mystery to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the website&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...jet black in color with a tan, rocky head, full body and creamy,&#xA;  luxurious mouthfeel. Its lightly sweet, malty flavor is accented by&#xA;  rich flavors of chocolate, coffee and peanut butter, and balanced by a&#xA;  subtle hop character and moderate 6.5% abv. Sweet Baby Jesus finishes&#xA;  smooth, dry, and roasty with lingering notes of chocolate and peanut&#xA;  butter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOPS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuggle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goldings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GRAINS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pale Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chocolate Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crystal Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Munich Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brown Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roasted Barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6.6%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IBU&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;33&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;An aside, we have tags for this type of post, so hopefully it's still on topic. If not, I can get rid of it.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Another aside, has anyone even tried this beer? Is it worth cloning?&#xA;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T00:44:17.770" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T14:28:17.420" Title="Formulating a recipe" Tags="|recipe-formulation|clone-recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15586" CreationDate="2015-06-23T13:12:05.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution would be to try and direct the wild fermentation into a controlled one. The strange smell (&quot;smells like goat&quot; or garlic or bad eggs or rotten meat, depending on whom you ask) that you have may very well be what's called &lt;em&gt;&quot;Böckser&quot;&lt;/em&gt; in German and &quot;&lt;em&gt;goût de bock&quot;&lt;/em&gt; in French. I'm not aware of an English translation other than off-flavour. It happens often with wild fermentation.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can normally get rid of a &lt;em&gt;&quot;Böckser&quot;&lt;/em&gt; by oxygenating the young wine and then directing the fermentation into a controlled one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might pasteurize the half-fermented sirup, which will prevent further progression of the fermentation, but it will obviously not remove the change in flavor or remove the alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better though, store your half-fermented syrup in the refridgerator (or as cold as you are able to, anyway) to slow down/inhibit further fermentation while you're unable to do anything better, and get some selected yeast which you can use to start a controlled fermentation (depending on where you live, you may find it in a gardening or home improvement center, otherwise by mail order).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, not everybody is a good neighbour, some will peacefully live side by side, &lt;em&gt;and some won't&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's the same with yeasts (and bacteria). Killer yeast [&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brouwland.com/en/our-products/winemaking/yeast/dried-yeast-bioferm/bioferm-killer/d/dried-wine-yeast-bioferm-killer-7gr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;] is sold for exactly this reason (and purpose). You can use any kind of selected yeast, it needs not be &quot;killer&quot;. These yeasts usually give a somewhat better taste and they only cost about half as much, too (and are more widely available) but they don't produce yeast-killing toxins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preferrably, you will want to use &lt;em&gt;dried&lt;/em&gt; yeast since it's both cheaper and higher quality than the liquid stuff. Let a teaspoon of yeast rehydrate in about half a liter of natural cloudy apple juice with a teaspoon of sugar (best and cheapest recipe to make yeast feel comfortable, and virtually doesn't affect taste) and let it in there for 3-4 hours. If you have ammoniumsulfate, you can add a teaspoon of that as well (yeast needs this for reproduction, but if you add none it can usually do with what's in the apple juice, anyway).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Meanwhile, take the cooled syrup out of the refridgerator so it will have a somewhat normal temperature when you put the yeast in (yeast, just like most people as well, doesn't like plunging into the cold).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After those 3-4 hours, you should see a &lt;em&gt;considerable&lt;/em&gt; amount of foam on the surface and small bubbles everywhere (otherwise, get refunded, and buy a new package).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now pour all your syrup into a container with an airlock (glass balloon is ideal, but plastic will do too) and add the yeast. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12344" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T13:12:05.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15591" CreationDate="2015-06-23T15:25:03.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the problem with foil?  When I cold crash, I seal the fermenter either with a solid stopper or foil.  Since fermentation is done there's no need to do anything else.  AAMOF, you want to stop air from getting into the fermenter, whether it has microbes or not.  I would not recommend using anything porous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T15:25:03.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15591" CreationDate="2015-06-24T13:07:46.983" Score="-1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Alcohol bubbling&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Letting the air pass through a strong alcoholic solution, as vodka or absynthe.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; Alcohol is known to be hostile to a lot of organisms: keep in mind that surgeon &lt;strong&gt;sanitize&lt;/strong&gt; their hands with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cdc.gov/HandHygiene/download/hand_hygiene_core_minus_notes.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;products based on alcohol&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you do set up a good turbolent flow without losing too much contact time, you should manage to reduce in great part the microbial count in your airstream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Geometry of the apparatus, on a budget&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is getting plenty of curves, so air has to go through multiple alcoholic phases and optimally a final washing water phase.  Getting one more washing water phase in the middle would be ideal.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Stainless steel &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piping_and_plumbing_fitting#Elbow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;piping fittings&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trap_%28plumbing%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;traps&lt;/a&gt; (also called &lt;em&gt;siphons&lt;/em&gt;) would be the ideal choice: coupling multiple U fittings will give you this solution for less than 25$, &lt;strong&gt;and it will hold to sanitation standards higher than the food industry has&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Water Absorption&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In technical terms, it'd be called &quot;absorption airstream contamination&quot;: ditching sanitizers in favour of strong alcoholic solutions will already make the air &lt;strong&gt;more-than-FDA&lt;/strong&gt; safe, but if you really have an issue with air containing a small part of alcohol, you can place another fitting or trap where clean water will rest.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This process is used in the pharmaceutical industry, for a safety regulation framework of reference.&#xA;Using distilled water in this curve would be ideal: it tends to have a very low starting microbial count, and the alcohol it will absorb (thus &lt;strong&gt;removing&lt;/strong&gt; it from the air stream).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do choose this solution, I can estimate the amount of water and\or the maximum air flow to get a fixed concentration of alcohol, or if you choose the bubbling solution I can relate the number of curves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Even when they tell you otherwise, traces of chemicals always linger by the very nature of chemical reactions: the smaller the concentration, the slower the reaction. After a while, it slows so much it practically stops&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Live easy, very small traces can be safely neglected both by taste and health&lt;/strong&gt;, and I don't mean figuratively: under a certain concentration, there is no evidence that a substance can alter the equilibrium of your body. How low that certain concentration is, however, varies by substance, hence my offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Limits&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only a few alcohol resistant strands would pass, and they'd have to be more easily dispersed in air than water or liquid phases: competitive growth should hold them back, however.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12325" LastEditorUserId="12325" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T14:01:16.603" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T14:01:16.603" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-24T16:40:05.337" Score="0" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fermented 12 gallons in a Sankey keg. Fermentation went fine as well as diacital rest for two days. After two days of cold crashing all of the sanitized solution that was in the blow off bucket is gone, the solution was a starsan mix.&#xA; Is it salvageable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12349" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T18:11:48.980" Title="missing blow off water" Tags="|blow-off|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15602" CreationDate="2015-06-24T17:00:31.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much was in the blowoff bucket?  You've got a chance that you're OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T17:00:31.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15530" CreationDate="2015-06-24T17:40:20.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tartic acid has a more tart/sour flavor. Malic is a little bit smoother. You can use less malic 2.7g a gallon compared to 3.8g a gallon to lower the ph 0.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6700" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T17:40:20.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15602" CreationDate="2015-06-24T17:57:05.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed with any airlock, some of the solution in the air lock can go into the fermenter. Most of the time, the pressure inside the fermeter is greater, so air escapes. However, when temperature drops, pressure decreases, which causes the liquid in the airlock to be sucked into the fermenter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, it's probably best to switch out from a blow off tube to an airlock after primary fermentation has slowed, to limit the blow back, especially if you are going to cold crash.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Denny said, StarSan, at least when diluted per instructions, won't hurt you to drink. If you've ever drank any (by accident, or doing a mouth siphon or out of curiosity), you'll have an idea of the taste. One part in twelve sounds like a high concentration, but whether or not you can taste it will depend on the flavors in the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once added about a pint of StarSan solution to my mash in a 5 gallon pale ale, attempting to bring the mash temp down a bit. I had inadvertently grabbed it from the wrong bucket and didn't realize it until much later. That beer later scored a 34 in a BJCP competition (which is pretty good for me), but it had a lot of hops (pale ale). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T17:57:05.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15607" CreationDate="2015-06-25T16:12:17.483" Score="1" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was advised by my LHBS that if I steep 500g of Carapils in 2L of water (for a 23-25L batch) at around 68°C, then use this as part of my boil, then I will have more body and head retention in my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this method correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I use this 2L of water as part of the 11L &lt;em&gt;to be boiled&lt;/em&gt; or do I add it to 9L of boiled water to reach the 11L boil size and then proceed as normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use recipe builders as much as possible - do I need to worry about steeping efficiency when I am not trying to create fermentables?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-03T16:56:35.280" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T16:56:35.280" Title="First time steeping!" Tags="|extract-brewing|steeping|extract-plus-grains|body|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15606" CreationDate="2015-06-25T16:49:27.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you use the wort you create by steeping as part of your boil volume.  The method looks fine.  I wouldn't worry about steeping efficiency.  You won't get more than a few gravity points out of it unless you steep several pounds of grain.  Also, be aware that not all grains are suitable for steeping.  Some need an actual minimash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T16:49:27.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15609" CreationDate="2015-06-25T23:00:35.087" Score="1" ViewCount="2715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hadn't used this kegerator in a couple of years (the fridge has been plugged in, but I've had nothing attached). I bought a brand new 3/16&quot; hose and connected it and now I get about 50% foam coming out on a new keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I used to use this, everything was fine before. I'm not sure what is different (other than the new line).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have about 5' of hose that rises 2' in my fridge (maybe a foot). I've used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2011/07/14/keg-line-length-balancing-the-science-of-draft-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calculation found here&lt;/a&gt; with this number and came up with that I should be having about 16psi. This seems rather high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, I've tried lower PSI and the higher PSI; all generate foam. I've noticed that after a pour, I get bubbles in the line right out of the keg immediately. What could I be doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I could think of is the plastic retainer is a bit mangled; I've ordered a new one but it hasn't came up yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fridge stays at about 40F. Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fypG3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Mwyb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/agmdR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I4eFT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12354" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T19:40:35.500" Title="Foam directly out of my beer line" Tags="|beer|kegerator|foam|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15608" CreationDate="2015-06-26T17:50:10.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience there are a few things that caused beer foam for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch out for CO2 saturation! Carbonating for long periods (or shaking) with too high a pressure will mean that you cannot get anything but foam. This one was a killer for me when I started because I would shake the kegs at 40 psi and release the pressure then apply 8 psi for the draft. This can easily result in a CO2 saturation higher than the temperature will allow and you will get nothing but foam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to be taking the temperature of a liquid throughout your chiller. Get a couple glasses of water and put one on the floor and one near your tap. These temps should be practically the same after a nights chilling time. If they are not then you are probably warming the beer in the line on the way out. Wild variations in temperature as the compressor kicks on and off are also an issue. Also make sure the poor is at the correct temp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to prevent that beer line from dipping below the top of the keg. I've seen some resources that say coil the beer line on the top of the keg. This prevents a sudden drop in pressure as the beer flows downwards which lets the CO2 escape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not letting the beer stand for long enough. Agitating dissolved CO2 can make it easier for it to escape. I had these sorts of problems with opening bottled beer too quickly after carbonation too. Let your beer settle under pressure for more than a couple days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beer line not long enough or line that is too thin can be a menace too. Try extending the line to 8ft and a wider line if problems persist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I built my keg system from a converted freezer, so temperature control was very difficult until I bought a temperature controller. I didn't stop having issues until I widened my line and stopped over carbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/articles/foamy-beer-kegerator.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.kegerators.com/articles/foamy-beer-kegerator.php&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/foamy-keg.45959/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/foamy-keg.45959/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related (Over carbonated):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9476/why-is-there-so-much-foam-when-i-open-the-bottle?rq=1&quot;&gt;Why is there so much foam when I open the bottle?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3514" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T17:50:10.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15606" CreationDate="2015-06-26T21:19:56.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this would be a protein rest, though the temperature is considerably lower than what I have heard before.  John Palmer, in his excellent book, says to use a temp between 113 and 131 degrees.   Here is the link &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-4.html&lt;/a&gt;.   I have used this method quite a bit and seen a noticeable difference in the beer head retention.  Also you would definitely want to add this to your pre-wort boil.  You don't want to add anything to a post boil that hasn't been sterilized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T21:19:56.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-27T08:36:31.560" Score="1" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to the home brewing game and am looking to get a little info before I start buying equipment. How large of a brew kettle do I need if I am brewing 10 gallon batches? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12358" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T16:27:18.300" Title="What size brew kettle should I get?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|kettle|help|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-27T09:40:28.563" Score="1" ViewCount="1292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if i can make nutritional brewers yeast as a supplement at home without it being a by product of beer making?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using sundown brewers yeast and had amazing results in getting a glowing face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to some health issues i am concerned it may be a by product of beer and in addition to that it contains some wheat which i am not allowed to eat at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought of making my own brewers yeast at home with all the nutritional values , without being a by product of beer and without wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had read that brewers yeast which are intended to be used as  health supplements are primary grown on crops and that are not a by product of beer making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12360" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T12:01:07.517" Title="make brewers yeast" Tags="|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15608" CreationDate="2015-06-27T14:37:29.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Foam directly above the connector is a problem. Foam should only form where there is a pressure drop or a rise in temperature, and that all usually happens at the tap. Either the beer is too carbonated for the temperature, or there is a restriction in the dip tube or connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try to lower the pressure first. Without a relief valve, it means turning off the CO2, serve a few beers, wait for the bubbles to go away, try again. With that connector you could try to loosen the CO2 line, but you risk making a huge mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T14:37:29.317" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15611" CreationDate="2015-06-27T16:27:18.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a ten gallon batch, you'll probably want to have about 11 gallons of wort at the end of the boil to account for kettle losses (dead space, break material, hops). If you figure you'll boil off roughly a gallon per hour and you might want to be able to do a 90 minute boil sometimes, your kettle will need to hold an additional 1.5 gallons. That puts you at up to 12.5 gallons of wort at the start of the boil. You'll need some extra space to prevent a boilover. Given these assumptions, a 15 gallon kettle is sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the numbers I used when selecting my new kettle. They worked well for me. Your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T16:27:18.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15624" CreationDate="2015-06-27T21:20:45.350" Score="4" ViewCount="2663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going cross-eyed trying to tell if there are fruit fly larvae on the walls of my continuous brew kombucha. I have seen fruit flies on the outside, but I don't think they can get in through the two towels and rubber band sealing the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assumed that the specks I saw on the walls were just bits of tea and bubbles, but after doing some research I got a little paranoid. I set a trap to deter fruit flies so I'm not worried about more (if any) infiltration, but how can I know if there are fruit flies inside? Would I just have to wait for them to mature and see if I have fruit flies buzzing around inside after some amount of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QMDSq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bubbles or laravae?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scoby is seen at the bottom of the picture. There is a distinct line of bubbles. That isn't what I'm worried about; that's normal. What I am concerned with is the specks stuck to the wall that aren't touching the scoby. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7963" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-22T11:11:13.577" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T11:11:13.577" Title="Is there a way to tell if fruit flies have laid eggs?" Tags="|contamination|kombucha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-27T21:26:32.663" Score="1" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I decided to harvest a Weihenstephaner heffe yeast from the bottle. However, I couldn't find it in the store, so I grabbed Weihenstephaner Vitus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it contain the same yeast strain as heffe, or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;P.S. It's nevertheless on the stirplate as we speak...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6177" LastActivityDate="2022-12-22T14:27:06.687" Title="Weihenstephaner Vitus yeast" Tags="|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15617" CreationDate="2015-06-28T01:13:40.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Does it contain the same yeast strain as heffe, or not?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's quite possibly the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; strain &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;BUT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; not necessarily the strain you're looking for (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/com_b_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=135&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Weihenstephan's Hefe yeast&lt;/a&gt;). Bottle conditioning for one or both (or neither) of these beers may be conducted with different yeast strains than the primary (from which all of the characteristic &lt;em&gt;hefe&lt;/em&gt; flavor comes), though I don't know for sure with Weihenstephan. Breweries tend not to be particularly open about process specifics like this. I know I've heard much &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbaa.com/districts/MidSouth/Events/Documents/2010-03-13Wheat_Beer_Yeast__Fermentation2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;talk&lt;/a&gt; about Hefeweizen producers only using the primary strain for bottle conditioning in their local market, and using a lager strain for distribution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, there's a pretty good chance you're not culturing a strain that will give you the typical flavors of a Bavarian-style wheat beer, but one that will give you an entirely style-inappropriate character. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see some discussion on the topic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=129554&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/2266-brewing-with-wheat-candi-sugar-mr-wizard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to confirm whether or not you have a Hefe strain by sniffing your stir plate. If you smell clove and banana there's a chance it's useable (though unfortunately both lager and Hefe yeasts tend to be profligate sulfur-producers during exponential growth, possibly confounding this method).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T01:13:40.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15612" CreationDate="2015-06-28T02:03:41.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you have a suitable supply of yeast nutrients, you can certainly grow non-beer-based yeast cultures for whatever use you need them for. &lt;em&gt;Saccharomyces&lt;/em&gt; yeast cultures need the following for successful growth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assimilable nitrogen. Without a steady supply, yeast can't synthesize protein required for reproduction. Various &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yeast nutrients&lt;/a&gt; can supply this nitrogen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbohydrate, preferably glucose or maltose (for which brewing yeast have a particular affinity). Sucrose (table sugar) is not directly assimilable by yeast and must first be split into its constituents, glucose and fructose, by a yeast enzyme (invertase). Yeast use carbohydrate as the fuel to carry out cell metabolism, either aerobically or anaerobically (depending on the availability of oxygen). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small amounts of lipids, &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; oxygen dissolved in the fermentation medium which will allow the yeast to synthesize its own sterols and fatty acids, key components in reproducing cell walls. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trace elements, such as vitamin B, zinc, calcium and magnesium, often critical for the synthesis of yeast enzymes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barley wort (which is what yeast transforms into beer) is rich is almost all of these things, and yeast growth during fermentation creates many times more yeast than the brewer needs for fermenting subsequent batches. Hence the natural connection between the industries of beer and yeast-derived products. But since you're concerned about the contents specifically of beer, there's no reason you can't do this without un-involving the offending ingredients. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's worth noting that without some specialized yeast-growing equipment, any relatively simple method you use is probably going to give you a &lt;strong&gt;very small amount of yeast&lt;/strong&gt; to work with, especially relative to the amount of liquid you'd need to ferment. For example, a five-gallon batch of beer (typical for a homebrewer) would likely yield less than a cup's worth of pure, thick yeast slurry when all is said and done. There are certainly ways to increase the yeast density, but only if nutrients are in ample supply &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; the byproducts of fermentation (chiefly alcohol) don't overwhelm the yeast's capacity to function and reproduce. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, it can be done at home. Whether or not it's worthwhile is an entirely different question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T12:01:07.517" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T12:01:07.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15623" CreationDate="2015-06-29T01:03:52.730" Score="2" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I was brewing my Brewer's Best Kolsch LME kit, and I made four errors. First, I skipped rehydrating, yielding to the boxed instructions instead of the packet. Second, I overestimated how cold my bottled water jugs were (i left them in the freezer to cool) and after cooling the wort, I ended up cooling it down to 57F when I pitched it. Didn't realize my mistake until I affixed the thermometer strip to the fermenter. To top it all off, I filled to the 5 gal mark initially, but once the head settled, I can see it's at ~4.33 gals. And I skipped checking the OG, so I can't tell how off I am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 24 hrs, the airlock is bubbling at a rate of 4 bubbles per min and is now 68-69F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I ruined my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12366" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T12:24:20.957" Title="Pitched dry yeast into 57F wort, underfilled the fermenter with water... have I ruined my batch?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|first-time-brewer|primary-fermentation|mistakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="925" CreationDate="2015-06-29T03:17:56.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If what you want is candy syrup, sold as D2 etc in American homebrew stores, then you need to &lt;a href=&quot;http://ryanbrews.blogspot.com/2012/02/candy-syrup-right-way-hint-weve-been.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;read this explanation&lt;/a&gt; of what it really is and how to make it.  In Dutch it is &quot;kandizuiker&quot; and this has been mistranslated/misinterpreted as meaning candy sugar, which it is not.  It is really a Maillard syrup, made by reacting sugar with amino acids in an alkaline environment, and different colors and flavors are attained by cooking for different lengths of time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most recipes you will read are for invert sugar or simply caramelized sugar.  (If the recipe includes an acid, such as lemon juice, it will produce invert sugar.)  These have quite different flavors and ferment differently than Maillard syrups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make Maillard syrup (kandizuiker), mix 1 cup sugar with 1/4 cup water and add 1/2 teaspon of pickling lime and 1/2 teaspoon yeast nutrient.  Bring to boil, and cook until the desired color and flavor is achieved.  You may need to add small amounts of water from time to time to prevent boilover.  You will know the reaction is proceeding in the right direction if you get a whiff of ammonia when the boil starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12367" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T03:17:56.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15621" CreationDate="2015-06-29T12:24:20.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope. Beer will fight very hard to be beer. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your beer will not taste exactly like planned, but if it is bubbling then you are off to a good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kolsch uses a lager yeast and they are happy with the colder temps. As the beer warms up the yeast will also warm up and work faster, but keep the temps reasonable! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lower amount of water will mean that your beer will have a higher OG and possibly a higher FG, but none of these are problems for what I assume is a beer of low to normal strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer might end up with a slightly higher ABV, but nothing spectacular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relax and enjoy your beer! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T12:24:20.957" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15616" CreationDate="2015-06-29T13:53:31.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fruit fly eggs are yellow 1/2mm long and will generally hatch into larvae in ~30Hours, so if they are still there 2 days later then they are specks of stuff, if the hatch then they are larvae, which will likely fall into the liquid and drown. I hope that helps you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, also CO2 tend to put the fruit flies to sleep, so if they were to fly into the  bag the CO2 from the SCOBY would likely hit them before the laid any eggs, and is likely to drive them away from crawling under the edges of your towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T13:53:31.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15598" CreationDate="2015-06-29T14:28:17.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will give you the IBU and ABV you are looking for. To get the mouth feel you will have to play around with mash-in temps to try get the right proportions of un-fermentable sugars out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;4.5 kg    10lb Pale 2-Row (UK)              Any Mash    38  2 °L&#xA;0.45 kg    1lb  Chocolate (US)              Any Mash    29  350 °L&#xA;0.45 kg    1lb  Caramel/Crystal 60L (US)    Any Mash    34  60 °L&#xA;0.23 kg  1/2lb CaraMunich II (DE)           Any Mash    34  46 °L&#xA;0.23 kg  1/2lb CaraBrown (US)               Any Mash    34  55 °L&#xA;0.1 kg   1/4lb Roasted Barley (US)          Any Mash    33  300 °L&#xA;Hops&#xA;&#xA;Amount  Hop Time    Use Form    AA&#xA;20.0 g  Golding (US)    60 min  Boil    Pellet  4.5%&#xA;20.0 g  Fuggle (US)     60 min  Boil    Pellet  4.8%&#xA;20.0 g  Golding (US)    20 min  Boil    Pellet  4.5%&#xA;20.0 g  Fuggle (US)     20 min  Boil    Pellet  4.8%&#xA;10.0 g  Golding (US)     5 min  Boil    Pellet  4.5%&#xA;10.0 g  Fuggle (US)      5 min  Boil    Pellet  4.8%&#xA;&#xA;Yeasts&#xA;&#xA;Safale US-05    Fermentis US-05 85.5%&#xA;&#xA;Stats&#xA;&#xA;Batch &amp; Boil&#xA;&#xA;Batch Size&#xA;23.0 L ~5gal&#xA;Boil Time&#xA;90 min&#xA;Properties&#xA;&#xA;OG: 1.059&#xA;FG: 1.009 &#xA;IBU: 32&#xA;ABV: 6.6% &#xA;Color: 32 SRM&#xA;Balance: 0.70 – Bitter&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd take the peanut powdering advice from the brewtoad link nemmy provided:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 lb. PB2 Powdered Peanut Butter - 7 days secondary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 lb. PB2 Powdered Chocolate Peanut Butter - 7 days secondary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T14:28:17.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15576" CreationDate="2015-06-29T14:37:17.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made this before but always used packet wine yeast, and always boiled the must before fermenting it. I keep meaning to try some wild brewing but never have built up the nerve to try this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually if it looks clear and tastes &amp;amp; smells OK then it is fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T14:37:17.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15374" CreationDate="2015-06-29T14:48:27.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it is the stage which contains the majority of the activity (the first 3-4 days 90% of fermentable sugars are consumed), it is also the stage when the majority of waste products are produced by the yeast. The temperature control over this period plus the variety of yeast used will have the largest affect on the flavour profile of the beverage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this is when sugar --&gt; alcohol + CO2, but also esters, fusel alcohols and other products are spat out at this time and can subtly or not so subtly change the flavour profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you will know some esters, fusel alcohols, ketones and phenolics and other organic chemicals can have very strong flavours which we are sensitive to at ppb or ppm concentrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples from beers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethyl hexanoate (aka ethyl caproate): very common in beers. Threshold: ~225ppb. Common levels in beer: 70-500ppb. Smells of red apple, anise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://beersensoryscience.wordpress.com/2011/02/04/esters/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://beersensoryscience.wordpress.com/2011/02/04/esters/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, at the end of primary fermentation when sugars are running low yeasts will often clean up some of their unpleasant waste products converting and cleaning them into more palatable flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T14:48:27.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14561" CreationDate="2015-06-29T14:54:13.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add some boiled Bicarbonate of Soda, that will drop the Ph, start with one tsp in about 50ml. Aim to get the Ph to around a bit above 4 and then you should be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T14:54:13.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15525" CreationDate="2015-06-29T15:02:38.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be that the yeast consumed all the oxygen so no more oxidation could take place. Also, the darker coloured compound have likely broken down the oxidised compounds, lightening the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T15:02:38.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15465" CreationDate="2015-06-29T15:08:25.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The volume to use is the final volume you are aiming for in the fermenter; yes the post boil volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lovibond -&gt; SRM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;°L = (SRM + 0.76) ÷ 1.3546&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T15:08:25.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T01:32:32.280" Score="1" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a 5 gallon batch of sweet mead last night and when I woke up I heard it bubbling away like crazy! Is this normal if I'm using the s style airlock? First time using this type. It's been bubbling constantly all day at a pretty rapid pace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12371" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T05:13:35.513" Title="is it normal for vigorous bubbling in airlock right away?" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15631" CreationDate="2015-06-30T05:13:35.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perfectly normal. Properly rehydrated dry yeast or a good liquid starter will do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T05:13:35.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13297" CreationDate="2015-06-30T18:31:09.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you didn't stir your priming sugar very well, it's reasonable to assume that it didn't mix into the beer completely. In your case, the larger bottles didn't get the level of sugar that you intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to take the oxygenation risk if you're manually adding priming sugar. If you don't want to do that, then I suggest using carbonation drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3811" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T18:31:09.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2015-07-01T01:32:02.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I personally lean on the side of calling distilled mead a honey brandy, I would agree with most people that commented so far. There is not a clear category in which to fit a honey-sourced distilled alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The average person is likely to view mead as a honey-based wine. But, this is not technically correct since a wine is made from fruit, specifically grapes. Nor is mead a rum, since rum is sourced from sugars extracted from a plant such as sugar cane or beets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While bees make honey from drinking nectar, they also transform it through partial digestion, mix some pollen and enzymes in the process, evaporate it and then regurgitate the mixture into honey comb cells. This qualifies honey as an animal-based sugar source. So, technically, honey would be closer to other animal-based sugar sources like maltose in milk, and might be better recognized scientifically as a kumiss. But, personally i hate that name, and I doubt that it would have good marketting value either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it is worth, I did come across a commercial name for a British alcohol distilled from mead, called the &quot;Ninemaidens&quot;. The company web site (www.foodfromcornwall.co.uk) has the following description: &quot;It is a crystal clear, vibrant spirit with a floral, honeyed bouquet and a warm rounded finish: 40% alcohol by volume. The name 'Gwires' (pronounced gwi'rez) is taken from the Cornish word meaning alcoholic spirit, and it is produced by distilling the highest quality mead.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, perhaps &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ninemaidensmead.co.uk/shop/gwires/?doing_wp_cron=1567249994.3808701038360595703125&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gwires&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is another contender for the title of distilled mead!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12374" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T11:12:26.810" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T11:12:26.810" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-07-01T01:32:02.043" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9719" CreationDate="2015-07-01T16:50:16.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use StarSan.  My water's a bit hard, so my StarSan turns cloudy fairly quickly if I use tap water to make it.  I make a small batch of StarSan using a gallon jug of distilled water, as mentioned by other posters, for long-term storage (spray bottles, filling airlocks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6349" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T16:50:16.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15638" CreationDate="2015-07-02T14:47:28.137" Score="3" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am super new to brewing but extremely ambitious. I just have a dry hop question so I hope you see this. So I'm currently fermenting a double IPA with Columbus for bittering and Cascade for aroma. Well i'm a huge fan of citrus in my IPAs and I want to dry hop with 2 oz Citra and 2 oz Cascade to bring up my hop aroma. The question is, I am waiting until i rack to secondary, but I want to just drop the pellets into the carboy without a bag since its a narrow neck glass 5 gal. When would you recommend throwing the hops in since i wont be able to extract them. I am going to filter on my racking cane when i siphon into bottling bucket. Can I just toss them in, and rack on top of them from the primary? Should I wait until the last week in the secondary? Should I rack into secondary, pitch the hops in and seal it up for the entire 14 days? Hope someone can help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T13:55:07.403" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T13:55:07.403" Title="Dry Hopping Question" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|ipa|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15637" CreationDate="2015-07-02T15:30:18.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't clear from your post what your fermentation schedule is, but it seems like you plan to allow primary fermentation to finish and then rack to a secondary vessel for two weeks. If that's your schedule, then your questions are (1) how long should you dry hop and (2) how should you add the hops to the vessel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to the first question is, &quot;It depends.&quot; Usually one week of dry hop contact time is plenty. Some people go as short as a few days. Some commercial beers are known to be dry hopped for several weeks with multiple hop additions along the way. I suggest you start with one week for this batch and adjust for future batches as you see fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how to add the hops to the beer, I'm not sure it matters much. I prefer to add the hops on top of the beer because they tend to float on the top at first and then fall through the beer as they saturate. I feel like that makes for better contact, but I don't know that to be true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold crashing is a very effective way of getting pellet hops to settle to the bottom when it comes time to rack off the dry hops. If you have a way to cold crash, I highly recommend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final point I'd like to make is that, despite the advice pretty much every newcomer receives, you don't need to rack your beer to a secondary vessel at all. You'll be packaging this beer in three weeks or less. There's no need to risk contamination and oxidation by racking; the beer can sit in primary for the full three weeks without issue. You can dry hop in primary, too, by just dropping the hops on top of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T15:30:18.480" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15637" CreationDate="2015-07-02T16:35:39.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When would you recommend throwing the hops in since i wont be able to extract them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 1 or 2 weeks before you bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to filter on my racking cane when i siphon into bottling bucket. Can I just toss them in, and rack on top of them from the primary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can if you want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I wait until the last week in the secondary? Should I rack into secondary, pitch the hops in and seal it up for the entire 14 days? Hope someone can help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Totally depends on how you feel, as you fancy trying new things and ambitious brews, you could add half on day 1 then half 7 days later and stagger the additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or for extra experimentation if you have a 5 gallon batch you could split it into a number of batches an vary the dry hopping in each batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T16:35:39.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15637" CreationDate="2015-07-02T16:40:10.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The aim of dry-hopping is to get as much of the essential oils of the hop into your beer without extracting bitterness and without driving the volatile compounds off through heat, ie during the boil. So its simply a matter of adding hops to the beer when its cool enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your question is mainly concerned with the practicalities of cleanly siphoning off when you might have hops floating around. You could use a 'hopback', which is based on the idea that you pass the beer through a sealed vessel which contains the hops and also filters it at the same time, in order to force the liquid into contact with the hops as much as possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1933/what-is-a-hopback&quot;&gt;What is a hopback?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try adding the hops inside some sort of sanitized perforated bag that you can then lift out when it comes to bottling, but I'm not sure that will be as efficient (potentially less contact with hop surface area).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a pressure barrel rather than bottling, some people throw a handful of hops in the barrel after transferring the beer into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12300" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T16:40:10.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15061" CreationDate="2015-07-02T16:40:58.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the 'method' section on turbid mashing extracted from the same article Pepi references above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Your turbid mash begins in a manner similar to a regular infusion step mash, albeit much thicker. Dough in to 113 °F (45 °C). Your liquor to grist ratio at this point will be around 0.3 qt./lb. (~0.7 L/kg). Bring the water in the hot liquor tank (HLT) to a boil and, after the mash has rested 10 minutes, raise the temperature to 138 °F (59 °C) by stirring in boiling water. This should bring the mash to an overall thickness around 0.45 qt./lb. (~1 L/kg). Hold for 5 minutes at this rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, the unusual aspects of the turbid mash begin. Draw off about 1 qt. (1 L) of turbid wort (if brewing a 5-gallon/19-L batch of beer). Do this by sinking your colander into the mash and scooping or siphoning off the wort. An auto-siphon comes in handy for this. Do not collect any grain solids in this volume. (Skim them out with a strainer, if your colander lets some solid bits through.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the turbid wort in your small pot and heat it. An easy way to do this is to float the small pot in the boiling water in your hot liquor tank. You want the turbid portion to reach at least 180 °F (82 °C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, stir in more boiling water to raise the temperature to 150 °F (66 °C).  Hold at this temperature for 30 minutes, stirring often. The mash will still be thick, so you’ll have to work fairly hard at this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, it’s time to use the colander again. This time, the mash is a bit thinner — although still thicker than a normal mash — and you will collect about a gallon (3.8 L) of wort (again assuming you are brewing 5-gallons/19-L). Combine the wort you draw off with the first turbid wort in the small pot. Heat this portion as before, aiming to raise it to at least 180 °F (82 °C). For the final mash rest, stir in boiling water  to raise the temperature to 162 °F (72 °C) and rest for 20 minutes. While waiting to lauter, add water or otherwise cool the water in the HLT to 190 °F (88 °C). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collecting the wort involves some unusual steps compared with normal wort collection procedures. First drain off some of the wort to the kettle — roughly the same volume that you have contained in your small pot. Replace the wort you ran off with the wort in the small pot. This should bring the mash temperature to 167 °F (75 °C). Hold for 20 minutes, then vorlauf and run off the rest of the wort,  sparging with 190 °F (88 °C) water from the hot liquor tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience with utilizing a turbid mash there are a few pointers to keep in mind to assure success when following the procedure laid out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Before starting, make sure your stuykmanden (colander) fits in the mash tun&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that, by pressing down with the colander, you won’t be bending any temperature probes or crushing any screens or manifolds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adding 0.5–1 lb. (0.23–0.45 kg) of rice hulls to the mash during the saccharification rest is a smart choice when using unmalted wheat. This is an added buffer to assure against a stuck sparge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My research into making an authentic kriek led me into the realm of the turbid mash and eventually into this article. Hopefully it will lead some brewers - especially those who are “Belgian-inspired” - to try this interesting and authentic method of mashing.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/hops/item/1711-turbid-mashing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/hops/item/1711-turbid-mashing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T16:40:58.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15158" CreationDate="2015-07-02T16:45:32.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not made a Ginger Bug myself but given this is a natural fermentation of bacteria and airborne yeasts I would expect it to smell nothing like fresh ginger and very much alcoholic. The medicinal thing I would be slightly dubious about though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am pretty certain it should not smell like fresh ginger, as there is fermentation processes occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T16:45:32.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-02T17:57:13.710" Score="0" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another noob question. I have been going back and forth on &quot;im going to secondary my double IPA&quot; and &quot;Im just gonna leave it primary til completion&quot; I keep reading contradicting theories and It's driving me insane. I dont want off flavors from the yeast, but i don't want worse off flavors from oxidation or contamination. Weigh in here guys, what is the common consensus. I am dry hopping the double IPA if that adds anything. My original schedule was going to be: Primary: 10 days Rack to secondary for 7 days, dry hop, then leave for 7 more before bottling. But now i dont know if I should leave out secondary and just dry hop a week from bottl &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T03:22:50.373" Title="secondary or not?" Tags="|beer|fermentation|secondary|ipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-07-02T19:05:33.920" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15643" CreationDate="2015-07-02T18:21:43.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;About the only times I use a secondary any more are when I'm adding more fermentables (like fruit) or when I dry hop.  There are interactions between they yeast and dry hops that can result in a really &quot;flowery&quot; quality to the beer due to an increase in geraniol.  You don't have to worry about off flavors due to yeast.  That's a homebrew myth carried over from commercial brewing, where it can be an issue.  Due to the much smaller size of our fermenters, there's no problem with leaving the beer in primary even for a couple months or so.  Here's what John Palmer, author of &quot;How to Brew&quot; said about it on the AHA forum....&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=15108.msg191642#msg191642&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=15108.msg191642#msg191642&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When and why would you need to use a secondary fermenter? First some&#xA;  background – I used to recommend racking a beer to a secondary&#xA;  fermenter. My recommendation was based on the premise that (20 years&#xA;  ago) larger (higher gravity) beers took longer to ferment completely,&#xA;  and that getting the beer off the yeast reduced the risk of yeast&#xA;  autolysis (ie., meaty or rubbery off-flavors) and it allowed more time&#xA;  for flocculation and clarification, reducing the amount of yeast and&#xA;  trub carryover to the bottle. Twenty years ago, a homebrewed beer&#xA;  typically had better flavor, or perhaps less risk of off-flavors, if&#xA;  it was racked off the trub and clarified before bottling. Today that&#xA;  is not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The risk inherent to any beer transfer, whether it is&#xA;  fermenter-to-fermenter or fermenter-to-bottles, is oxidation and&#xA;  staling. Any oxygen exposure after fermentation will lead to staling,&#xA;  and the more exposure, and the warmer the storage temperature, the&#xA;  faster the beer will go stale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Racking to a secondary fermenter used to be recommended because&#xA;  staling was simply a fact of life – like death and taxes. But the risk&#xA;  of autolysis was real and worth avoiding – like cholera. In other&#xA;  words, you know you are going to die eventually, but death by cholera&#xA;  is worth avoiding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But then modern medicine appeared, or in our case, better yeast and&#xA;  better yeast-handling information. Suddenly, death by autolysis is&#xA;  rare for a beer because of two factors: the freshness and health of&#xA;  the yeast being pitched has drastically improved, and proper pitching&#xA;  rates are better understood. The yeast no longer drop dead and burst&#xA;  like Mr. Creosote from Monty Python’s The Meaning of Life when&#xA;  fermentation is complete – they are able to hibernate and wait for the&#xA;  next fermentation to come around. The beer has time to clarify in the&#xA;  primary fermenter without generating off-flavors. With autolysis no&#xA;  longer a concern, staling becomes the main problem. The shelf life of&#xA;  a beer can be greatly enhanced by avoiding oxygen exposure and storing&#xA;  the beer cold (after it has had time to carbonate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Therefore I, and Jamil and White Labs and Wyeast Labs, do not&#xA;  recommend racking to a secondary fermenter for ANY ale, except when&#xA;  conducting an actual second fermentation, such as adding fruit or&#xA;  souring. Racking to prevent autolysis is not necessary, and therefore&#xA;  the risk of oxidation is completely avoidable. Even lagers do not&#xA;  require racking to a second fermenter before lagering. With the right&#xA;  pitching rate, using fresh healthy yeast, and proper aeration of the&#xA;  wort prior to pitching, the fermentation of the beer will be complete&#xA;  within 3-8 days (bigger = longer). This time period includes the&#xA;  secondary or conditioning phase of fermentation when the yeast clean&#xA;  up acetaldehyde and diacetyl. The real purpose of lagering a beer is&#xA;  to use the colder temperatures to encourage the yeast to flocculate&#xA;  and promote the precipitation and sedimentation of microparticles and&#xA;  haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, the new rule of thumb: don’t rack a beer to a secondary, ever,&#xA;  unless you are going to conduct a secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T03:22:50.373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T03:22:50.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15649" CreationDate="2015-07-02T21:24:12.723" Score="2" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand how open fermentation retains any alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12379" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T11:13:09.523" Title="How does open fermentation yield alcoholic beer?" Tags="|open-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11403" CreationDate="2015-07-03T00:23:41.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couldn't find the compressive strength of glass compared to the tensile strength of glass, but a mason jar would probably be able to withstand higher pressure acting on the outside (as in canning, or under vacuum) than pressure acting from the inside, even if the compressive and tensile strengths are the same.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As far as the light is concerned, just put the containers in a dark place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12380" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T00:23:41.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15645" CreationDate="2015-07-03T03:54:04.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alcohol doesn't evaporate &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; quickly. We might as well ask how the water stays in the beer too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T03:54:04.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11403" CreationDate="2015-07-03T06:57:15.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have actual experience with this... For a period of time I was &quot;bottling&quot; with mason jars off the fridge taps for co workers (the ease of filling is still tempting). I was finding that after about 4 hours unrefrigerated (I don't have any data on long term refrigerated storage) the lid would peak outward and crease about from the center to the band (the part that screws on). The band did seem to keep the sealing compound flush with the rim of the jar enough to keep the beer carbonated, but I assume this would not be true for long term storage. The take-away here is, short term... ok, but your going to toast the lid every time... long term, I wouldnt do it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T06:57:15.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15645" CreationDate="2015-07-03T08:41:30.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ethanol boils at 78.4C water boils at 100C, impurities in solution increase further the boiling point of these solutions. Unless you are heating the solution to &gt;50C the rate of evaporation will be negligible. The strong surface tension of water also limits the evaporation from solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you have to think of the surface area to volume ratio of an open fermentation, mostly there will be a relatively low SA/vol ratio, unlike a puddle which will evaporate quickly as the SA is high in relation to the volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of how quickly the water in your bath at home would evaporate with only a few inches of water in, unless you were in a heat wave it would likely take a good few days/weeks for it to evaporate away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in a Belgium style cool ship they are generally 18-24in /45-60 cm deep, and kept at a low temperature &amp;lt;20C. The original idea was to allow hot wort to cool quickly in the shallow vessel and they stop the metabolism of the yeast increasing the temperature of the wort/beer too much by allowing convection and low amounts of evaporation to carry away the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing with open fermenters is that they lower the pressure on the liquid compared to a closed fermenter, this helps to reduce the stress on the yeast and leads to different flavour profiles from the same combination of yeast and wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-22T11:13:09.523" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T11:13:09.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12611" CreationDate="2015-07-03T09:08:22.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quick Version&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you are using it with a base malt you can use up to ~50%, you don't need to get malted triticale or pre-cook it(see below). Also, I have no idea where you could find some in the UK; if you can find some flaked then try that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: if you know where to find some please post a link here, because I am now rather interested in trying it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extended Info&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently know nothing about the falvours, but regarding the techniques I have found a reference. Brewing: New Techniques edited by C Bamforth Section &lt;strong&gt;3.4.1 Unmalted Triticale&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Most non-malt adjuncts do not contribute either enzyme activity or soluble nitrogen ... triticale goes beyond this specification ... Because of this and the low gelitinisation range of triticale starch(59-65C)... triticale could be used as a brewing adjunct at high ratios(&amp;lt;30-50%) ... furthermore, because of its low gelatinisation temperature, triticale can be added directly to the mash tun, without the need for a cereal cooker or second mashing vessel&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=gcJQAwAAQBAJ&amp;amp;pg=PA43&amp;amp;lpg=PA43&amp;amp;dq=gelatinisation+tricalate&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=u-8qrBrmGl&amp;amp;sig=e0n5SjJQ22lwfnp6Y97pBMjFMXU&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=e0yWVYy2H6zg7QaosZyQAg&amp;amp;ved=0CCwQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=gelatinisation%20tricalate&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=gcJQAwAAQBAJ&amp;amp;pg=PA43&amp;amp;lpg=PA43&amp;amp;dq=gelatinisation+tricalate&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=u-8qrBrmGl&amp;amp;sig=e0n5SjJQ22lwfnp6Y97pBMjFMXU&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=e0yWVYy2H6zg7QaosZyQAg&amp;amp;ved=0CCwQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=gelatinisation%20tricalate&amp;amp;f=false&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T09:08:22.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15608" CreationDate="2015-07-03T19:40:35.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried taking apart and cleaning out everything below the tubing (valve / dip tube, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an issue with excessive foam that turned out to be some hop trub getting picked up and clogging the valve.  Give everything a thorough cleaning and make sure all o-rings are seated properly before going to more drastic measures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6581" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T19:40:35.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13443" CreationDate="2015-07-03T22:34:31.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The temperature is most critical for isomerisation of the alpha acids. 100C for 90 min results in the maximal conversion of alpha acids; The Handbook of Brewing 2nd Ed p209. The vigor of the boil is not a major factor. The book goes on to say that breweries operating at high altitude can struggle to get good isomerisation rates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the malt and style of beer DMS/leaving the lid on can be OK. I have made the mistake before of leaving the lid fully on for 50min of a 60 in boil. I removed it for the last 10min and kicked it to a rolling boil to ensure the DMS was evaporated out and the solution properly cycled round. The brew was fine with no bad effects. It was an IPA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T22:34:31.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-04T15:08:17.030" Score="4" ViewCount="575" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oXiCB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A berliner weisse we forgot to bottle for around a month and a half. Did not introduce pediococcus or lactic acid in the fermentation. Did a sour mash before the boil so lactobacillus shouldn't have been present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12382" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:42:27.380" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:43:03.593" Title="Is this pediococcus contamination?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|contamination|pediococcus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15685" CreationDate="2015-07-04T21:29:38.530" Score="3" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extract brewing here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the boil, I put my pot into an ice bath to cool the wort before topping off. Generally I cool the wort to 100°F (37°C) before transferring to the fermenter. Today I cooled to that temperature as usual, then topped off, but found that the temperature read a few degrees higher than expected (76°F vs. 70°F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rewinding for a moment, I noticed that temperature readings near the outside of the pot tended to be warmer than those I took from the center -- usually by at least +10&amp;deg;F. So that being said...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where is the &quot;correct&quot; place in the pot to take the temperature while cooling the wort?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8312" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T16:03:37.247" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T00:49:37.377" Title="Where should I take the temperature while cooling wort?" Tags="|temperature|chilling|cooling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15659" CreationDate="2015-07-05T10:04:36.407" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prepared a must for a mead last weekend (recipe below) and after a whole week there has been no fermentation activity. I took a pH reading and it came in at &lt;strong&gt;4.4&lt;/strong&gt; - is it likely that the must is simply too acidic for the yeast? I added a teaspoon of CaCO3 and stirred it in - got a small fizz - so will wait and see if that works. Should I re-pitch more yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;16L mineral water&#xA;4kg cherry blossom honey&#xA;4kg peeled, stoned, and pasteurised lychees&#xA;11g US-05&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pitched the yeast at 20 degrees, after aerating the cooled must. There's 20L of must in 2x10L fermentors. I added 1tsp of yeast nutrient in each fermentor, along with 1tsp of pectic enzyme and 1tsp of tartaric acid. When fermentation hadn't started after 2 days I prepared a yeast starter with another 11g of US-05 and the starter was fine, so I know the yeast was healthy when I pitched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions gratefully received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8501" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T16:56:46.327" Title="Must won't ferment, too sour?" Tags="|fermentation|mead|stuck-fermentation|sour|ph|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4609" CreationDate="2015-07-05T14:49:25.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What advantages/disadvantages would there be if one would filter it (if necessary) at its peak after a two day crash?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on a low gravity, 1.045 beer. 3 day primary, 5-6 days (or less if possible) on a berry in season. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll be a raspberry wheat beer.  Any advice on mash temp and mineral profile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12385" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T14:49:25.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15657" CreationDate="2015-07-05T16:56:46.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try getting the must pH to greater than 5,aim for around 5.4. Then add some extra yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only do this if your addition of CaCO3 was not successfully fixed the pH. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T16:56:46.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15655" CreationDate="2015-07-05T17:05:18.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of there being a correct place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a couple of options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) If you are seeing such a large discrepancy then I would take 2 reading one from centre and one from the edge and average them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) or you could take a reading between the edge and the centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T17:05:18.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15671" CreationDate="2015-07-05T17:14:10.523" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was racking a batch of elderflower wine today and had a cheeky sample on the way to the secondary. OMG it was akin to lemon juice, I think I may have added a bit too much citric acid to the mix when making this one. It is a 1 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone had a similar experience and how did they bring it back to palatable? I am thinking of adding a little CaCo3 to mellow it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T19:04:17.713" Title="Acidic Elderflower Wine" Tags="|wine|acidic|country-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15662" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-05T17:15:03.760" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T17:15:03.760" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T17:15:03.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15663" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-05T17:15:03.760" Score="0" Body="Country wine or Fruit wine, wine made from something other than grapes such as fruit, flowers or herbs." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T13:58:27.687" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T13:58:27.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15664" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-05T17:16:49.807" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T17:16:49.807" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T17:16:49.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15665" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-05T17:16:49.807" Score="0" Body="Being or containing an acid or a solution having an excess of hydrogen ions; having a pH of less than 7." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T17:24:17.480" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T17:24:17.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15676" CreationDate="2015-07-05T17:30:36.510" Score="1" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wonderful wife bought me a book on the history of IPAs for Christmas, which I have read a couple of times. This book has some extracts from old brew logs regarding the proportions of malts and quantities of Hops to use. Equally for primary fermentation I intend to use a London Ale Yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, this is where I have been debating what to do. It mentions that these IPAs were matured in large oak vats, and we all know were transported over seas. They that these vats were likely to have Brett and other wild yeasts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any better ideas how I should go about replicating this secondary fermentation?&#xA;I was thinking to chuck into the secondary Brett + 1'' oak cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how concerned should I be about infecting my basement with Brett or similar wild bugs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, anything any of you wish you had been told before you did your first Brett/Wild/Lambic brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T13:43:12.050" Title="Brewing a 1860-1890 IPA" Tags="|ipa|brettanomyces|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2015-07-05T17:50:28.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first wine making book was: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/First-Steps-Winemaking-C-Berry/dp/1854861395/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;First Steps in Winemaking by C. J. J. Berry&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I would recommend it to anyone starting out, it is simple and as a bonus you can get it off Amazon for 1p.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was the first book I got on any form of brewing and I still enjoy flicking through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T17:50:28.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T18:18:36.380" Score="1" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why should I make a yeast starter and not just sprinkle the yeast on top of the wort like the packet says? I am sure there must be some good reason why you would do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12386" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T23:24:15.963" Title="Why should I make a starter?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-07-06T01:12:00.150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T18:27:37.017" Score="8" ViewCount="1001" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to brewing and was thinking of trying to brew a fruit beer. I saw that there were watermelons for sale cheap at my local green grocers and wondered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At what stage I should add this to my beer? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much should I add?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I add just the juice or the pulp as well?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12386" LastEditorUserId="12386" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T18:56:54.043" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T14:35:32.153" Title="Watermelon beer, anyone tried brewing?" Tags="|beer|fruit|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15668" CreationDate="2015-07-05T18:36:26.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should make a starter to ensure that you get a healthy and vigorous fermentation. Rehydrating yeast can kill a large number of the cells, so by creating a starter you can get your brew off to a healthy start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is especially important for stronger beers: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;For strong beers and barleywines, at least 1 cup of yeast slurry or 1 gallon of yeast starter should be pitched to ensure that there will be enough active yeast to finish the fermentation before they are overwhelmed by the rising alcohol level.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T18:36:26.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15661" CreationDate="2015-07-05T19:04:17.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try siphoning off a glass of the wine and adding a pinch of BiCarbonate of Soda or Calcium Carbonate, give it a good stir and see how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12386" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T19:04:17.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T21:01:05.703" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally make 5 gallon wine kits. I purchase a 1 gallon kit and I have 6 gallon fermentor. Will this hurt the wine using the same fermentor? Do I need to get smaller fermentor for small batches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12388" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T13:55:52.450" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T13:55:52.450" Title="Making small batch of wine" Tags="|wine|small-batch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15672" CreationDate="2015-07-05T21:53:11.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My initial thought was that you should get a smaller vessel, but thinking it through likely the CO2 would drive out any excess oxygen or the yeast would consume it. I think you should be OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would personally get a second smaller fermenter as it allows you to make a small and a large batch in parallel, which isn't a bad thing :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T21:53:11.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15668" CreationDate="2015-07-05T23:24:15.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A yeast starter is essential to making sure there are enough live yeast at pitch time to complete fermentation.  You might want to make a starter for several reasons, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unsure of yeast viability due to age or temperature swings.  If you've ordered liquid yeast during the summer months and you're unsure if the high heat may have killed some off, making a starter is a great idea.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're making a high gravity beer.  These are particularly exhausting to yeast and you want to pitch a pretty big starter into it (at least 2 liters if not more) to ensure there are enough viable yeast in there to finish all that fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, these concerns are &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; only applicable to liquid yeast cultures.  The dehydrated yeast packets contain a lot of yeast, usually enough to get the job done either by dry pitching or rehydrating it according to the package instructions.  The rehydration wakes the yeast up and gets them used to working at fermentation temperatures before they actually have to go to work.  You're not going to be doing your dry yeast any harm by making a starter, but it's also fairly unnecessary.  If you're really worried about pitch rates with dry yeast just throw another packet into the fermenter at pitch time, or make another yeast slurry with the pack contents and double pitch that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12390" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T23:24:15.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15669" CreationDate="2015-07-06T01:14:16.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clones of 21st Amendment Hell or High Watermelon wheat beer tend to add it late in primary or in secondary. Make your beer about 1/8th watermelon, and add everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T01:14:16.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15666" CreationDate="2015-07-06T01:47:50.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oak barrels also let a bit of oxygen in. Apparently you can recreate this with on of those soft orange carboy caps - they are more porous to oxygen than others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard precautions for Brett are to keep the soft parts separate from you other beers. But Brett isn't that hard to kill, proper sanitation should be enough. And if any fruit grows near your house, your basement is probably full of wild bugs anyway. Brett will live in/on wood, so don't splash beer on the walls, or reuse those cubes for anything. Obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last question - be prepared to wait. Weird flavors might show up, that's just brett doing it job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T01:47:50.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-06T11:58:01.820" Score="4" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, i'm curios if anyone here also tried to brew a walnut wine.&#xA;I've got a couple of bottles from my spouse's grandma, and this year i've tried to make it myself.&#xA;Had a couple of questions though.&#xA;What's the time for taking the shells off. And when it will have its сhestnut's colour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12391" LastEditorUserId="12391" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T12:04:22.283" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T21:59:42.793" Title="Did anyone here made a walnut wine?" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15692" CreationDate="2015-07-06T12:17:37.867" Score="3" ViewCount="427" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so I am currently working on my first batch that I Intend to Dry hop. I am getting a ton of mixed messages and want to see what the majority thinks. So I have finally come to the conclusion that for a small 5 gal batch, racking to a secondary is more risk than just leaving it in primary for the entire fermenting period. According to John Palmer, bigger breweries just rack to secondary vessels because the amount of sediment is MUCH greater than what we are dealing with and can cause off flavors. The only time we should rack is with fruit additions, or other fermentables and or if we intend to age. Well I'm finding a lot of brewers telling me they ONLY transfer to secondary if they are dry hopping or making additions. Then I have others telling me you can just dry hop in primary a week or so before bottling. Everyone is contradicting each other and just when i think I'm solid on what I believe, someone changes my mind. Let me know what you guys think!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T06:45:06.090" Title="dry hopping in primary?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|dry-hop|ipa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15672" CreationDate="2015-07-06T12:33:35.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have smaller bottles you use as secondary fermenters, you can use those to free up your large fermenter. Either way, it doesn't matter as long as you have an airlock, which will prevent oxygen from seeping back into the fermenter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12254" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T12:33:35.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14874" CreationDate="2015-07-06T12:38:17.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are four important regions of hop cultivation: N-America, UK, Continental Europe and Australia/NZ.&#xA;There is a general assessment that each region is tends towards hops with certain characteristics. Resin, Floral, Spicy and Fruit are the most common, but is not a finite list. That may be a good starting point. A couple from each region I would select are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Australia/NZ&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nelson (NZ): Tropical. Become popular in US recently. Commercial&#xA;beers include Mikkeller Nelson Sauvin Brut, Anchor's Humming Ale,&#xA;Sierra Nevada Southern Hemisphere Harvest Ale &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ella (Aus): Sweet, Floral. Along with Galaxy (very fruity) are&#xA;popular in Aussie craft brewing circles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EKG: Sweet, Smooth, Citrus/Lemon, Floral. Defines English Pale Ales.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuggle: Classic English Hop flavours, fruity, spicy, woody. Used extensively in bitters, porters and English Ales.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N-America &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Citra: Poster child for craft brewers recently. Commercial beers&#xA;include Sierra Nevada Torpedo and Oakham Ales &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cascade: Citrusy and grapefruit flavours. Classic hop in APAs.&#xA;Commercial beers include Sierra Nevada Pale Ale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continental Europe &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hallertau Mittelfruh: Classic German hops used extensively in&#xA;Bavarian Lagers and Pilsners  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saaz: Another of the ‘Noble’ hop varieties. Signature hop of Pilsner&#xA;Urquell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with the tasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12392" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T12:38:17.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-06T12:47:07.080" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I harvested my yeast for the first time (WLP566 Saison II), but I left the fridge temp mega low by mistake and it froze overnight. I have immediately thawed it out, but I am wondering if it now waste of jar space or could it still be viable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T13:09:48.127" Title="Is my frozen yeast okay?" Tags="|yeast|saison|harvest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15666" CreationDate="2015-07-06T13:43:12.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As they say: Do Not Fear The Bug! :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your brewery will not get infected if you brew this beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All plastic equipment used in the brewing (post boil) should be considered infected and should never be used with a clean beer ever again. Mark the hoses/spoons to indicated that they are a bio-hazard :p Plastic fermenters count for the previous rule, but they are oxygen permeable, which might provide too much oxygen to the brett and the beer will be very sour. Rather use glass/steel when you want to add bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning is always an issue. But if you do a good job cleaning and sanitising you should be fine. Repeating rule 1: all plastics (no matter how good you clean) should be considered infected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really worried, you can add vodka or a sanitising solution to your bubbler/blow-off. This will kill any bugs that learn to fly. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that the bugs will eat EVERYTHING that they can find. Make sure they are done before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also doing my first bug brew this weekend :) Good luck with your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T13:43:12.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15655" CreationDate="2015-07-06T13:47:29.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one correct place: The same place that you used last time. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The critical part is that you take a reading at the same place as this will give you consistency in your process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one &quot;bad&quot; place: the bottom of the kettle. Depending on your equipment you may get a high reading because the thick bottom is retaining heat, or showing a very low temp because the cool wort is lying on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swirl your pot a bit to get some movement in your pot. This will help you get a more homogeneous reading as well as helping your wort to cool down faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T13:47:29.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15655" CreationDate="2015-07-06T15:18:20.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would help in a couple ways if you gently stirred the wort with a sanitized spoon as it cools.  First, it will make it cool faster.  Second, you'll get homogenous wort so you'll get an accurate temp reading no matter where you check it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T15:18:20.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15678" CreationDate="2015-07-06T16:13:45.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not contradictory so much as it's all valid. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the titular question: yes, you can dry-hop in primary. Long-term aging is really the only reason to rack to secondary. Dry-hopping, fruit additions, &amp;amp;c. can all happen in primary just fine. Anything that happens w/in 6 months can happen in one vessel (primary) or two (primary and secondary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T16:13:45.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15710" CreationDate="2015-07-06T16:57:50.053" Score="4" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel that this question could potentially have more specific and direct sub questions but for now I would like to simply pose it as &quot;why not oxygenate active yeast prior to pitching instead of oxygenating the entire batch?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="1865" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T14:47:22.463" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T15:15:37.887" Title="If oxygen is important mostly during the lag phase why not pre-oxygenate the yeast pitch prior to inoculation?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15687" CreationDate="2015-07-06T17:11:20.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's only so much oxygen that the N-hundred billion cells that you pitch can &quot;hold&quot;. As well, there's only so much oxygen that can be diffused into the liquid containing those cells. And not only will those pitched cells need more oxygen, but their offspring cells will need oxygen, as well. As such, we oxygenate the wort, not just the pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T17:24:51.213" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T17:24:51.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15654" CreationDate="2015-07-06T17:17:04.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely a wild yeast contamination which could easily contain some of those strains and have the potential to be a positive in a Berliner, or not...(plastic, bandaid, and phenolic flavors possible). It does Look like a pellicle for sure! I would say if it smells rancid don't try it, if it taste terrible don't drink it, that's the best advice given to me on the questionable safety of beer everything else and your good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:43:03.593" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:43:03.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15681" CreationDate="2015-07-06T20:35:06.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The viability will have been seriously affected you may have some OK cells in there, but the formation of ice crystals with in the cells will have ruptured the majority of the cells. You may be able to make a starter from it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T20:35:06.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15669" CreationDate="2015-07-06T21:54:26.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We brew a watermelon wheat as well. We add the strained watermelon juice at kegging. You couldn't bottle this way (refermentation = bottle bombs), but for kegging, it's the solution we've found works best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T21:54:26.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15678" CreationDate="2015-07-07T06:45:06.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion a &quot;secondary&quot; should be viewed as a tool. A potentially useful tool, but best used by someone who really has a grip of their brewing process and using it for a very specific purpose. I agree with Palmer, dont chase what the big brewers do, they have different issues then homebrewers. I would definitely suggest dry hopping in your primary vessel but AFTER FERMENTATION IS COMPLETE (I did when I bottled), fermentation will drive off volatile components of the hops. There is a lot of contradictory information out there, Take it all with a grain of salt most things &quot;work&quot; and some work well. As you gain experience you will start to see what works for you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and keep us posted!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T06:45:06.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15695" CreationDate="2015-07-07T15:09:42.307" Score="0" ViewCount="748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am Currently working on a double IPA with a predicted abv between 8%-9%..I am leaving it in one vessel. I was wondering if anyone thought 4 weeks in primary, then adding my dryhops and leaving for one more week before bottling, for a total of 5 weeks, would be enough time for the beer to be fully fermented and ready to package. Also going to leave bottled for 3 weeks before first taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T15:20:34.503" Title="is 5 weeks enough for my double IPA?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|first-time-brewer|dry-hop|ipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15697" CreationDate="2015-07-07T15:20:02.037" Score="4" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fridge holds a damn near constant and consistent temp at whatever i set it at. I am thinking about cold crashing my double IPA and this would be my first time trying this technique. I heard there are things that can go wrong. What temp and how many days and how long before bottling should i cold crash if I also dry hopped the beer. What can go wrong, and what are the benefits? thanks i know i have a ton of questions this is a great resource as i don't have much time to research during the day at work and at night with a newborn :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T19:18:27.177" Title="cold crashing question" Tags="|first-time-brewer|dry-hop|ipa|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15693" CreationDate="2015-07-07T15:20:34.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You'll likely be fully fermented within 1 week, if you have a healthy pitch of yeast. Two weeks should be more than enough. Gravity readings are your best option to understanding fermentation/attenuation, here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T15:20:34.503" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4336" CreationDate="2015-07-07T18:16:29.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Half of the people I know give their dogs a little beer now and then, whether they're having a barbecue, a bonfire, or simply hanging out at the fishing hole, and like the above post, many of these dogs outlived their human counterparts. So from my experience through the years, beer is not harmful to dogs. Course then, I reckon you'll have to decide that for yourself. Common sense would say, as with all things, the primary part of it is &quot;A little beer now and then.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12399" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T18:16:29.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15694" CreationDate="2015-07-07T19:18:27.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cold crash (and &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/01/05/the-gelatin-effect-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;fine with gelatin&lt;/a&gt;) at 30F for two or three days before kegging. I have found that 30F for two days clears my beer better than weeks at 38F in my refrigerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to bottle the beer, you might fear that you'll drop too much yeast out, leaving you with too little yeast to carbonate the beer. That isn't a concern. Plenty of beer has been cold crashed and then bottled successfully. I recently cold crashed a RIS at 30F for four days, and it carbonated within two weeks. As a bonus, it also reduced the amount of sediment in the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the only thing that could go wrong is you let it get too cold and freeze the beer. That could result in a broken carboy. I don't know what effect it would have on the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T19:18:27.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15705" CreationDate="2015-07-07T19:47:55.853" Score="1" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being only a third time brewer, and feeling ambitious and experimental i decided to step away from kit directions and experiment. anyone have experience with the following combo? any opinions on how this will taste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 oz Columbus: 60 min (bittering)&#xA;2 oz columbus: 15 min&#xA;2 oz cascade: flame out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 oz Citra: dry hop week before bottling&#xA;1 oz simcoe: dry hop with citra week before bottling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thoughts? suggestions? thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T14:09:48.853" Title="Opinions on my hop schedule for double IPA?" Tags="|techniques|first-time-brewer|dry-hop|ipa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15700" CreationDate="2015-07-07T20:45:58.960" Score="4" ViewCount="887" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day while reading around the mashing and sparging process I came across the word &lt;em&gt;vorlauf&lt;/em&gt;. The meaning was unclear from the context. Is vorlauf a substance, a condition, or an activity? Is it good or bad? Also, how do I pronounce it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8538" LastEditorUserId="8538" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T04:15:43.680" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T04:15:43.680" Title="What is a vorlauf?" Tags="|sparge|mashing|vorlauf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15699" CreationDate="2015-07-07T21:03:55.753" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's an activity and the initial part of the sparge.  Definition from BYO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;At the start of the lautering process, you should use a quart container to catch the first runnings. These will be cloudy and have bits of husk in them. Pour the cloudy, husky material back into the top of the lauter. This process is called vorlauf, a German word that means temporary. The mash materials will act like a filter and clear the runnings.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While draining the grain bed settles and compacts making for a natural filter to keep the smaller bits out of your finished wort.  May take a few times but it will start running clearer after the first one or two times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2436" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T21:03:55.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-07T21:12:27.333" Score="2" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;Title says it all: Could I ferment a five gallon batch on top of the yeast cake from a finished one gallon batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12400" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T05:38:50.330" Title="Coud I ferment a five gallon batch on top of the yeast cake from a finished one gallon batch?" Tags="|beer|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15701" CreationDate="2015-07-07T21:52:49.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure. This amounts to a large starter, so you may be slightly overpitching, but I've used the yeast cake from a 5 gallon batch to ferment another 5 gallon batch and had no issues. Depending on the style you are brewing, this could change the flavor somewhat, so to get an optimal pitching rate you could use a yeast calculator and discard part of your yeast cake. However this probably won't make much of a difference, other factors such as temperature will play a much larger role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you aren't washing the yeast, you generally you want to ferment a similar style or darker beer the second time around to avoid clashing flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12018" LastEditorUserId="12018" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T05:38:50.330" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T05:38:50.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-08T01:45:56.510" Score="5" ViewCount="19953" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some friends and I are attempting our first home brew. When the question came up I couldn't answer except to say that lagers are one and ales are another. I understand the some of the basic principles of fermentation from my college days in biochemistry but what are the differences between the two fermentation methods (right word?)? Be as detailed as you can/care to be please!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12402" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T13:56:35.700" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T13:56:35.700" Title="What's the difference between top fermenting and bottom fermenting?" Tags="|beer|fermentation|first-time-brewer|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15703" CreationDate="2015-07-08T05:46:38.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are two different species: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_cerevisiae&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Saccharomyces cerevisiae&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_pastorianus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Saccharomyces pastorianus&lt;/a&gt;.  They both do the same thing--convert sugar into alcohol--but they thrive in different conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference is that lager yeasts continue to function at almost-freezing temperatures, while ale yeasts go dormant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The terms 'top-fermenting' and 'bottom-fermenting' are merely descriptive, as they describe the flocculation tendency of the yeast. An ale yeast at optimal temperature will tend to clump together and rise to the surface, while a lager yeast at optimal temperature will act more slowly and stay in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12018" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T05:46:38.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15698" CreationDate="2015-07-08T06:29:36.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey experimenting is half the fun of brewing! If you keep good notes on recipes and final product you can really start to understand what works together and produce better and better beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing what your grain bill I would say this looks a little aggressive. As a reference, let's say you were shooting for a 1.065 o.g. (6.5% ish) your current hop schedule should yield approximately 140 IBU's. If you reduced your 60 min addition to 1 oz. it should be more like 95 IBU's. And further if you reduced both columbus additions to 1 oz. you should be around 70 IBU's. I really like the columbus hop (CTZ) for its &quot;dank&quot; piney pungent character, And believe this hop schedule could benefit from a trending practice of reducing the bittering additions and increasing the late additions which will lend to increased flavor and aroma / perceived hoppiness, but won't create an overly bitter beer (or brew this recipe to really get an understanding of where the bitterness ceiling is...(not a bad idea, extended aging will drop out perceived hoppiness over time)). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resources that might help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get yourself BeerSmith2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerlegends.com/hops-varieties&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beerlegends.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopunion.com/hop-varieties/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hopunion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usahops.org/graphics/File/HGA%20BCI%20Reports/Variety%20Manual%207-24-12.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;USAHOPS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.butlerwinery.com/PDF/Hop%20descriptions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hop PDF&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T06:29:36.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15703" CreationDate="2015-07-08T10:49:28.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;These yeast started out with a similar roots s.cerevisiae and diverged some time around the 15th Century, when it is thought to have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pnas.org/content/108/35/14539&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hybridized with a new world yeast(Saccharomyces eubayanus)&lt;/a&gt;. It is then likely that the yeast harvesting methods of different brewing techniques progressively selected for more specific varieties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In British and similar brewing practices the yeast to be pitched into the next batch was skimmed off the top of one and deposited into the others. This culminated in the complex but highly effective Burton Union System for harvesting yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where as in other brewing cultures using this new lager yeast they would have harvested from the bottom of the fermenter, further selecting for the bottom fermenting properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two fermenting properties are very similar taking sugar and spitting out ethanol in the absence of oxygen. Lager yeast can operate at mush lower temperatures, and at these temperatures tend to clean up and metabolize away a number of the esters it makes during early stages of fermentation. This leads to a far cleaner flavour profile if you brew the same wort with lager yeast and keep it in its preferred temp range vs an ale yeast in its temp range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lager yeast will ferment and stay active down to ~38°F/3°C, but large sudden temp drops will cause it to become dormant, so you need to cool things slowly if you want to do a slow secondary fermentation or the yeast will drop dormant. It prefers 45°-50° F max 60°F about 7°-12°C max 15.5°C, above this it will produce many off flavour esters. Sometimes you may want these and specifically stress the yeast to achieve them, but not on a first brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ale yeast on the other hand tends to like 14-20C or 55-68°F and I would suggest keeping it in the middle portion of the band.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to brew at higher temps then look at some specialty yeasts some Belgian strains are happy fermenting away up to 27°C/80°F at these temps they will spit out lots of clove and banana smelling esters giving your beers  Belgian fruity notes, the exact profile depends on temp and strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB: For a first brew I would go Ale yeast, as less need for temp control in most climates and less likely to give you an unexpected result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T10:49:28.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15681" CreationDate="2015-07-08T13:09:48.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make a starter ASAP. That is the only way to know if anything survived. Chances are slim as the frozen cells rapture when frozen. If the starter picks up, then step it up and harvest from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to freeze your yeast you need special &quot;anti-freeze&quot; so that the cells do not rapture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T13:09:48.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15450" CreationDate="2015-07-08T14:04:47.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that some fermentation is still going on, and the sediment is yeast that, over time, has grown and multiplicated. If that's the case, you should open your bottles before they become timed bombs, which will explode in your cellar. Check if your wine is sparkling (even just a little bit), that gives an indication that fermentation is still occuring in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did use some sort of sterilization, maybe you didn't use enough on those particular bottles. I use potassium metabisulfites, 2tsp per 20gal, and it's never managed to kill off all the yeast, which I don't mind in honey wine because it makes it sparkling, which I like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12254" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T14:04:47.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15698" CreationDate="2015-07-08T14:09:48.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks pretty reasonable, although as Ryan noted, 2 oz. Columbus at 60 minutes will be quite bitter. Personally, I find that boiling Columbus for more than 30 minutes results in a harsh bitterness that lingers far too long on my tongue. (I wake up tasting it the next day.) For that reason, I no longer use Columbus for bittering. I generally stick with Magnum for bittering now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By way of example, to my palette, there is a huge difference between the original &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/6351/doubleIPA.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pliny the Elder recipe&lt;/a&gt; (Columbus at 90 and 45, Simcoe at 30) and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.morebeer.com/products/russian-rivers-pliny-elder-grain-beer-kit-advanced.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MoreBeer Pliny the Elder kit&lt;/a&gt; (Magnum at 90, Simcoe at 45, Columbus at 30). I find the former to be quite harsh and the latter to be pretty smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's just my opinion, though. Some people seem to enjoy that quality so you'll have to judge for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do love Columbus for dry hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T14:09:48.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15687" CreationDate="2015-07-08T15:15:37.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, as long as you can ensure adequate and even oxygen contact with all of the yeast cells (a hard task, given the viscosity of yeast slurry), and provided the oxygenation comes &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; before pitching, oxygenating the yeast/slurry itself is completely sufficient to provide for adequate growth in the following phase. Even more strictly speaking, it is, in fact, beneficial since it largely precludes the possibility of oxidizing wort components, which could lead to staling flavors and haze instability over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This exact question has been posed in serious brewing literature before, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Oxygen to yeast or to wort?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;Oxygen is added to the wort as a nutrient for the yeast. There is some reaction of oxygen with wort constituents and some believe that this is not only wasteful but also detrimental to the flavor stability of beer. Accordingly, it has been argued that it makes more sense to oxygenate the yeast immediately before pitching &lt;strong&gt;per se&lt;/strong&gt;, rather than the wort. Provided the physical challenges inherent in trying to get oxygen to all of the cells in a thick slurry are overcome, it is certainly the case that improved fermentation control can be achieved by pitching defined quantities of oxygenated yeast.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Pulled from &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=Q1r6xE6bE5MC&amp;amp;lpg=PR1&amp;amp;ots=tDhiVPJJ-Z&amp;amp;dq=essays%20in%20brewing%20science&amp;amp;pg=PA133#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=essays%20in%20brewing%20science%20yeast%20oxygen&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this book&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't know of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; commercial breweries using this practice. I've only ever seen direct wort oxygenation/aeration, even on the most modern and technologically well-equipped plants. This means that, while it's completely possible and biochemically sound, it's probably way harder to do &lt;em&gt;practically&lt;/em&gt; than is worthwhile, especially given how easy it is to properly oxygenate wort. It's just one of those odd cases where it may technically be better, but the difficulties in doing it simply outweigh the benefits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T15:15:37.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15779" CreationDate="2015-07-08T16:16:55.350" Score="0" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night a friend at our brewing space passed me a new bag of Dr. Rudi Hops and said &quot;we just got this in would you like to try it in your brew this evening?&quot; I of course said yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only now do I think to ask has anyone here used this hop before? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how: bittering, flavor, aroma?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And most importantly... What was it like? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It said 11.7% AA on the pack, but I only used it for aroma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T21:23:39.307" Title="Dr Rudi (super alpha) hops NZ, experiences?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15717" CreationDate="2015-07-08T16:39:13.297" Score="2" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use electric kettle and hlt, the issue I keep having is that the brews keep coming out darker than I want. This went unnoticed when brewing stouts and bitters, but I have tried a couple of very pale summer ales and a light pilsner, all of which came out a touch too dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been scratching my head and I was wondering if it is the concentrated heat of the elements caramlising the sugars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then if a heat spreader on the element would help, and if it would how would I go about making one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hints? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T12:09:51.323" Title="Heat spreaders on electric elements" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-08T16:55:14.797" Score="3" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased and set up a cider homebrew kit, but after 9 days I've had absolutely no sediment at all. Have I done something wrong? I've followed the instructions to the word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12404" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T19:30:10.193" Title="no sediment in my cider home brew kit" Tags="|sediment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15716" CreationDate="2015-07-08T23:50:38.153" Score="2" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a batch of Marzen/Octoberfest.&#xA;I brewed it 3 weeks ago. Starting gravity was 1.060, the beer was well airated. I have used WLP820 with 1.7L starter. It's fermenting in my fridge at 50F. It's bubbling (like every 4-5 seconds), so yeah, it is still fermenting. Right now the gravity is 1.029. Yep, it goes down by .010 every 7 day. It is my second lager batch (I brewed a schwarzbier on the same week). Interesting enough, Schwarzbier fermented to 1.016 in just 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I am leaving next Thursday for two weeks and most likely the fermentation would stop in that period. I just didn't expect it to go that slow and thought giving it 4 weeks would be sufficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is... Should I just leave it as it is and go for my business trip without worrying about anything, and do a diacetyl rest after coming back from the trip. Or is there anything I can do, to speed up the process without any harm to the batch, like adding yeast energizers or even 2L of new healthy yeasts (though not sure if I would have time to make 2L starter)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T02:20:29.520" Title="Stuck or very slow fermentation on Märzen" Tags="|lager|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15715" CreationDate="2015-07-09T02:20:29.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To fix this beer, I would raise the temperature to 55F and leave it for another couple of weeks. Assuming sanitation is good the beer will be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.7l is on the small side even for a stirred starter for a 1.060 lager, and airation doesn't provide the dissolved oxygen levels needed. (ca. 15ppm.)  In future, aim for a 4-5l starter and yeast nutrient. If you can get a source of oxygen and an a 0.5micron diffusion stone that will improve your lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T02:20:29.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15712" CreationDate="2015-07-09T02:33:04.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple fix may be to change your element to one with a lower watt density, such as Camco 02965. It has a density of 50W/8.5W per square inch/cm.  These elements are longer than regular (HWD) heating elements and so spread the heat over a larger area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T02:33:04.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15719" CreationDate="2015-07-09T03:21:44.787" Score="5" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always read that over 170F grain mashes will get a very distinct off flavors.  How is it that during a cereal mash of grains (where you typically hold a mid-range temperature for a duration and then slowly increase to boil and hold) the process of exceeding the 170F temperature does not produce these off flavors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I almost wonder if the gelatin substance after the mid-temperature duration holds in or prevents these off flavors from occurring entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12379" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T12:21:38.587" Title="How does cereal mashing not produce off flavors due to above 170F boil temperatures?" Tags="|mash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15718" CreationDate="2015-07-09T12:16:32.000" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/malt/item/147-arent-tannins-a-problem-when-you-boil-part-of-your-mash-during-a-decoction&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; to a similar question might be enlightening. In the case of a decoction mash, the tannins are not very soluble due to the low pH. It's really a combination of high temperatures and high pH that lead to extraction of tannins from the grain husks. The same would apply to a cereal mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more important factor, though, is that you'd generally perform a cereal mash on grains that have no husk so there would be far less tannins present to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastEditorUserId="6160" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T12:21:38.587" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T12:21:38.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-09T15:24:53.047" Score="0" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed a really nice American Stout last night. notes of chocolately roasted coffee all throughout. the predicted abv was 6% according to kit which i followed to a T, but as i was taking my OG i dropped the hydrometer and it broke. My question is, similar to dry hopping (im not going to dry hop) what are some post fermentation additions some people do. And, since they most likely are not antimicrobial, how can I sanitize them before adding to my carboy? Was considering cocoa and/or whole coffee bean. It's a 5 gallon batch and I don't want to over do it on any flavors, so quantity recommendations are welcome too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary question: is there a way to find my abv now that I missed the OG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks, you guys are helping me tremendously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T15:56:51.710" Title="American Stout addition Suggestions" Tags="|fermentation|first-time-brewer|stout|late-addition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15720" CreationDate="2015-07-09T15:42:19.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, you don't need to worry about it.  I add coffee beans without any sanitation at all.  I've even added unsanitized mushrooms right out of the woods without problem.  By the time you add that stuff, there's not only alcohol n the beer, but it has a low pH.  Those two things combine to make it very resistant to infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T15:42:19.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15720" CreationDate="2015-07-09T15:56:51.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Denny's answer is pretty accurate, I think.  After fermentation is mostly complete, the beer is fairly resistant to infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding what post-fermentation additions people do, the answer is LOTS!  Dry-hopping, fruit additions, vanilla, chocolate, wood, liquor, chili peppers, and coffee are all pretty common.  I'm sure that I'm leaving out some other common ones as well.  For an American Stout, I'd say that dry-hopping, vanilla, chocolate, liquor, wood, and coffee are all very common and can be used in combination with each other.  It really depends on the flavor profile you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your other question, there is no way to find ABV without knowing what the OG was.  You can guess in the ballpark if you trust that you made the recipe and achieved the assumed efficiency, but it's really just a guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8239" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T15:56:51.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15724" CreationDate="2015-07-09T19:05:28.500" Score="3" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking into buying a 5 gal ball lock keg, i have the Co2 tanks, a tap, and gauges/hoses. I want to save by just purchasing something to keep it all cool. Strapped on cash at the moment but want to keg. Dont have the $450 at my disposal right now. Any alternatives? literally have everything but the keg and a something to keep it consistently cold. ideas? experiences? or just save my money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T07:13:26.850" Title="i want a keg cooler that is cheaper than kegerator" Tags="|kegging|first-time-brewer|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15723" CreationDate="2015-07-09T19:20:56.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep an eye on Craigslist for a used refrigerator. You can often get them free or nearly free if you pick it up. That's all you need: take the shelves out, and you can keep your keg in there with a picnic tap. I did this for about 15 years in my basement. If you want to get fancy, you could get a kit to put a faucet through the side so you don't have to open the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T19:20:56.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15725" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-10T02:29:15.090" Score="0" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing a Czech pilsner&#xA;OG 1.046 (brought it down from 1.056)&#xA;Yeast: Wyeast 2278 (1 litre starter) - 10-14 degs range&#xA;22L batch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My temperature control on my fridge said 14degs but a belated check confirmed 16degs, which would explain the very vigorous fermentation throwing off a lot of sulphur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've corrected it down to 14 degs after 3 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the recommendation to try and counter balance the ester formation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I go lower to 10-12C stepwise?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I bring fwd / delay my D-rest?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep to normal practise and lager longer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just chill out and accept it's a fruity lager that will be perfectly ok to drink just not win any prizes....&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks!&#xA;Aran&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12409" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T07:07:42.357" Title="Help! Started my lager at 16degs C for 3 days (instead of 14C) - ESTERS!" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|lager|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-10T10:32:55.413" Score="3" ViewCount="763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am still rather beginner (so far a couple of batches), but for the last batch I have taken a brave (irresponsible) step and went for a barley wine-braggot beer. For batch of 22 l In have used +- 6 kg of pale extract, 1 kg of specialty grains (crystal + a bit of chocolate malt) and after 3 days added 2 kg of pasteurized honey into the primary. Fermented with Magrove's Jack Newcastle yeast, keeping it at 19-20 degrees.&#xA;rack it into secondary for another month and then bottle - but it was based partly on reading, partly on guess. As I am reading into it, I am staring to hesitate. The thing is, I have only a plastic secondary (a large thin-walled plastic bottle you can buy water in for a water cooler) and I am not sure, is it better to rack into thin plastic secondary, or go for bottle conditioning? &#xA;Also, how long is usually necessary in secondary? I know the longer the better, but when can I more or less expect for the edges to smooth a bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thx for your experience...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12412" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T11:40:07.127" Title="Minimal neccesary time in primary/seconday for a barleywine-braggot" Tags="|fermentation|secondary|barleywine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15725" CreationDate="2015-07-10T12:07:14.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will state up front that I don't brew lagers, but I believe this information applies to both lagers and ales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most ester (or ester precursor) production occurs during yeast reproduction. Since this happens early on in the fermentation process, you likely can't do much to stop it now. You also can't reverse it once it is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/03/07/esters-in-beer-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, ester production is controlled by choice of yeast strain, fermentation temperature, pitch rate, and wort oxygenation. If you got three out of four right then maybe it won't be so bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say just stick to your normal schedule. Ride it out and see what you get!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T12:07:14.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15712" CreationDate="2015-07-10T12:09:51.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem (with big batches of sauce, not beer) and used a 1/4&quot; copper plate larger than the element to disperse the heat. Worked very well, but wasn't cheap. Aluminum plate might work nearly as well, and would be a lot cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T12:09:51.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-10T16:55:04.457" Score="1" ViewCount="4607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m in the process of creating a custom culture, made of lactic acid bacteria, for a artisan yogurt drink and am having a hard time finding information on the metabolic categories of each strain. I was wondering if someone could tell me which Lactobacillus strains are Homofermentative (or Heterofermentative), namely the following strains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Gasseri&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Fermentum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Sakei&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Salivarius&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Curvatus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Amylovorus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Johnsonii&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Kefiranofaciens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Rhamnosus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Plantarum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Paracasei&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Helveticus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weissella Koreensis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weissella Cibaria&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weissella Cibaria&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12410" LastEditorUserId="3925" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T19:50:00.153" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T04:48:07.267" Title="Which lactic acid bacteria are Homofermentative (or Heterofermentative)" Tags="|fermentation|sugar|lactobacillus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15669" CreationDate="2015-07-10T22:21:45.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally not. Some friends say that, none melon flavor in the finished beer. I saw tries using the melon juice since the boiling until the first fermentation. Nobody that I know could get the melon flavor neither the color in beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in cases that caught it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T22:21:45.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15735" CreationDate="2015-07-11T14:40:23.810" Score="5" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might seem dumb to most, but it's only my third batch and I just need some reassurance. So, I occasionally pop out the rubber stopper on my carboy to smell the brew and see if anything funky comes up so I know where to go with my dry hops in a couple weeks. While I was sitting around last night something hit me, when I pull the stopper out, I put it back in without sanitizing. Now it's only out for like 5 seconds tops and I hold it by the airlock, so I don't ever touch the rubber that goes back in the hole, and I don't set it down. Should I worry about contamination? I've only done this 4 or 5 times. It's just smelling AMAZING and I don't want to get through all of this and have caused an infection from my own curiosity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T11:46:26.813" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T13:54:50.677" Title="Contamination concerns when removing stopper?" Tags="|sanitation|first-time-brewer|ipa|carboy|contamination|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15731" CreationDate="2015-07-11T15:26:18.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you don't need to worry about contamination based on what you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T15:26:18.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15713" CreationDate="2015-07-11T16:56:53.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have no sediment then likely your yeast is dead and you should probably get some new yeast and add it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T16:56:53.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15726" CreationDate="2015-07-11T17:05:36.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually keep in primary 1-2 weeks, depending on the strength, then even if using a plastic secondary will usually rack it in for a couple of weeks just help it clear out a bit more, then bottle. The time in the bottle being potentially months, will do far more for mellowing out and blending flavours, than a couple of weeks here or there in the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am planning to keep it in the secondary for more than 4 weeks I will tend to use my glass carboy, just so that when I am lazy and leave it there a month too long it is still ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saying that, I have left brews in the plastic secondary for up to 6 weeks before and they were still drinkable, I went on holiday and forgot to bottle before. I bottled when I got back and it was not adversely affected by having sat there for a couple of months over winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T17:29:24.307" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T17:29:24.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15731" CreationDate="2015-07-11T17:31:49.910" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As jsled says you have no worries. You are doing the right things, not touching it or putting it down. If just for a few seconds to check on the brew you'll be fine, also you will gain experience regarding how your brew evolves over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should not worry as you are not setting it down for it to pick up bacterial contamination. Yes there is a tiny chance that a little critter will fall from the ceiling in the short interval whilst the stopper is out, but the risk is far outweighed by the learnings you will gain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T13:54:50.677" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T13:54:50.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15729" CreationDate="2015-07-11T17:50:35.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This previous question may help you a bit:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/12939/is-brewers-lactobacillus-heterofermentative-or-homofermentative&quot;&gt;Is brewers&amp;#39; Lactobacillus heterofermentative or homofermentative?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is taken for Wikipedia&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to metabolism, Lactobacillus species can be divided into three groups:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obligately homofermentative (Group I) including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;L. acidophilus, L. delbrueckii, L. helveticus, L. salivarius&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Facultatively heterofermentative (Group II) including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;L. casei, L. curvatus, L. plantarum, L. sakei&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obligately heterofermentative (Group III) including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;L. brevis, L. buchneri, L. fermentum, L. reuteri&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Gasseri &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Among these, Lactobacillus gasseri appears to represent the major homofermentative Lactobacillus species that occupies the human GI tract (Mitsuoka, 1992; Kullen et al., 2000). &lt;a href=&quot;http://genome.jgi-psf.org/lacga/lacga.home.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://genome.jgi-psf.org/lacga/lacga.home.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Amylovorus &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Johnsonii &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Kefiranofaciens &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Rhamnosus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus Paracasei &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weissella Koreensis &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weissella Cibaria&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll update more with edits as I find it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T17:50:35.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15739" CreationDate="2015-07-11T20:29:06.900" Score="3" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding hops after fermentation is referred to as dry hopping (duh).  But folks also add things like cucumber and hibiscus to the beer after fermentation. What's the proper way to refer to these additions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2347" LastEditorUserId="717" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T15:29:01.170" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T17:19:03.327" Title="What do you call additions after fermentation?" Tags="|recipe|additives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15737" CreationDate="2015-07-12T15:50:09.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know this is a bit of a gray area as far as official terminology. I have experienced several people over-emphasizing finger quotes and suggesting they would &quot;Dry hop&quot; with... cucumber or whatever. I personally dont do too many additions like this but would describe it as &quot;secondary with...&quot; regardless of it being in a primary or secondary vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing this does not actually answer your question but instead reaffirms that there is no proper word and it needs an official designation, my suggestion is dry pitching... that seems legit!   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T15:50:09.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15737" CreationDate="2015-07-12T17:19:03.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pretty straightforward....they're called &quot;post fermentation additions&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T17:19:03.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1578" CreationDate="2015-07-13T00:36:13.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think using both LME and DME is all or mostly about marketing. These kits like to showcase the liquid and dry malts, different hops and specialty grains to draw you into buying more of their sponsored products. I've bought kits that required DME to be put in late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My supplier used to sell Brewers Best kits, but discontinued them in favor of kits they put together themselves. They make different styles using different specialty grains to steep with the DME/LME that they also stock on the shelves. It's just there to lure you in toward all-grain brewing. It's their bread and butter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know because it happened to me. Not that it's a bad thing, I'm full on with it and having loads of fun brewing all-grain now. These kits really helped me to learn the products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12419" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T00:36:13.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15725" CreationDate="2015-07-13T07:07:42.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sulphur is normal in lagers, so I would not worry about that one. Even at 10C my lagers made a lot of sulphur!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Esters are formed during the first few days (1 - 3) of the fermentation process, so you will have slightly more esters in your beer than planned. HOWEVER, lager yeasts have very little formation, so you might just get away with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think lowering the temperature will have much of an effect regarding fermentation, but it should help with flocculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nope, keep your d-rest where you originally planned it, as long as you just have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Esters will not drop out, so longer lagering will not change that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, relax. Maybe you have the best beer ever! :) The beer might still be very clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However: You can blow off some of the esters if you keg your beer. To do this keg and carbonate your beer. Then de-gas the keg completely (the esters will be blown off) and re-carbonate. Repeat in a day or two. NOTE: This will also remove hop and malt aromas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T07:07:42.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15723" CreationDate="2015-07-13T07:13:26.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Move to a cold country and leave the kegs outside. :p&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a chillplate that I put into my fridge. I store the keg and CO2 on the one side of the fridge, beerline goed into the fridge, through the chill plate and out the other side to a mounted tap. Works like a dream. * I have NOT tested the system in the heat of summer (35C), but so far it is working fine in autumn and winter temps (25 - 10C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use the keg occasionally then buy a plastic bin that is bigger than the keg, put keg in the bin and fill the bin with ice. I have seen a large plastic rubbish wheely bin converted to take two kegs, small CO2 mounted to the side and two taps built into the bin. Worked great (but it does look a bit odd).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T07:13:26.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-13T07:49:16.027" Score="4" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just harvested some green gooseberries from the allotment, and as I don't like eating them, i thought i'd make some wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any tips anyone can offer me, or any good methods to follow? This will be the first time i've brewed anything and i'm really looking forward to it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12421" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T22:23:59.710" Title="Gooseberry Wine Help" Tags="|wine|country-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15745" CreationDate="2015-07-13T14:09:50.550" Score="0" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started brewing my own beer and though I have made a few batches (3 to be exact), I wanted to know what categorizes a brew to be a beer (like Mead/Lager, Irish Stouts).  Is it the hops/Yeast?  I just would like to know so I can look up recipes as I start to play around with recipes of my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12417" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T15:24:41.607" Title="What are the different beer types?" Tags="|beginner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15744" CreationDate="2015-07-13T15:21:44.263" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different styles of beer, and it is generally accepted that beer is brewed from malted grain (in almost all cases at least some portion is barley), water, hops and yeast. The different styles get their flavors from the types of grain used, the varieties of hops, and the strain of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that mead is not beer -- it is brewed from honey, not malted grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Beer Judge Certification Program is a non-profit organization that promotes judging at homebrew competitions. They have documented the major styles in &lt;a href=&quot;http://bjcp.org/stylecenter.php&quot;&gt;Style Guidelines&lt;/a&gt; That is one place you could start to see the list of styles. The guidelines include suggestions for ingredients, but do not contain complete recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T15:21:44.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15744" CreationDate="2015-07-13T15:24:41.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two main categories are ales and lagers. They are distinguished by the yeast strains that are used. Ale yeast ferments from the top of the fermenter and lager yeast the bottom, they also have many different characteristics such as flavor profiles and temperature requirements. Lager requires colder temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12423" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T15:24:41.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15743" CreationDate="2015-07-13T16:52:57.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first freeze the gooseberries to break the cell walls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I would quickly boil them up with some sugar to steralise them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I would let it cool in a covered pan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;once cool, place into demijon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then add paectin and yeast to the mixture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait 2 weeks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rack into a secondary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait one week and then bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also get a copy of this book: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/First-Steps-Winemaking-C-Berry/dp/1854861395&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.co.uk/First-Steps-Winemaking-C-Berry/dp/1854861395&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T16:52:57.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15743" CreationDate="2015-07-13T18:03:10.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Things to buy, obtainable from your local homebrew shop for pretty cheap: &lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wine yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitizing agent (I use Potassium metabisulfites)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A tube for siphoning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;About actually making the wine, the process is the following: &lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sanitize &lt;b&gt;everything&lt;/b&gt; that touches the soon-to-be wine&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wash the berries. If you want to be extra cautious, you can boil them in just enough water to cover them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the berries in a container with as much water as you want wine. Put a little bit more water if you want to be precise, because you might lose some when separating the yeast from the good wine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add sugar. The quantity depends on how much fruit and water you used. Look it up on the internet, see if people have done the same recipe before you, and how good it was.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover the whole thing. You want air to be able to escape but not enter. One trick for this if you don't have equipement is to use an air baloon in which you poke a hole with a needle. wrap it around the lip of your bottle. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If possible, hide the solution from sunlight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add wine yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait a few weeks. The solution should bubble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once it stops bubbling, siphon the solution to another (secondary) container, leaving the dead yeast and fruits at the bottom. It may or not start bubbling again. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for the solution to clear some more. At this time, you can optionally add a clearing agent. I use the same potassium metabisulfites that I use for sanitizing, in smaller quantities. This is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; possible with every sanitizing agent, watch out before poisoning yourself!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Siphon again into your final bottle once the solution is all clear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enjoy or keep for ageing!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made fruit wine before, some advice I would give you is to make sure no branches go into the wine, it gives bad taste and I think it's toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12254" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T18:03:10.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15669" CreationDate="2015-07-14T14:35:32.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just made a watermelon wheat that came out great. The process involved first juicing the watermelon to separate the pulp. Then I added the juice to my sparge water so the watermelon flavor and sugars would be incorporated into the boil. The pulp was later added to the secondary to impart even more watermelon flavor.  Overall, it was a lot of work but worth it if you really like watermelon.  I used 40 (yes, forty!) pounds of seedless watermelon to produce a 5 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11963" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T14:35:32.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15751" CreationDate="2015-07-14T15:59:38.813" Score="5" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm worried not so much about breakage/leakage as you can just take precautions with extra padding and good packaging, but more about oxidation with the bottles being shaken up during hot weather. We're hoping to be able to submit beer for a brewing competition from South to North China, where it's currently around 38C degrees (100F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8501" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T13:20:54.177" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T13:20:54.177" Title="What's the best way to ship bottles of beer 3000km in hot weather?" Tags="|storage|oxidation|shipping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15750" CreationDate="2015-07-14T21:18:08.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All you can really do is ensure that your fermentation, sanitation and bottling practices are as sound as possible. You should (as you seem to) definitely expect that your beer will see the worst conditions you could think of, chiefly: heat and cold (and rapid and frequent swings between the two); and near-constant agitation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To combat this, you'll want to do your best to exclude oxygen pickup during fermentation and (especially) packaging (as this will be the most likely source of rapidly-developing off-flavors), to cold-condition your beer (if possible) as cold as possible (to help minimize the development of haze, or worse, flakes), and to keep things as sanitary as possible (since the high temperatures will serve to exacerbate any shortcomings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically: don't rack before bottling unless there's a really good reason to (and purge your vessels well with CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; or nitrogen, if you do); cold-condition (if you can) as low as possible, to help with haze stability; bottle-condition, to help scavenge any oxygen present; fob your bottles properly (either spray a quick blast of water/sanitizer into them, or tap the bottle firmly) to ensure that you're capping on foam; and keep sanitation as tight as you possibly can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably also try to use nice bright beer, as too much yeast in the bottle will likely lead to off-flavors as it deteriorates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T21:18:08.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-14T23:23:58.037" Score="2" ViewCount="3980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing kombucha and would like to figure out when the best time to bottle it to build up some carbonation.  I'm also interested in figuring out how much sugar is remaining so I can calculate the amount of calories in my kombucha.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I measure how much sugar is remaining in my kombucha brew using a hydrometer?  If so, wouldn't that be a good way to know when to bottle it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12427" LastEditorUserId="12427" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T23:43:33.950" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T00:21:15.990" Title="Measure remaining sugar in kombucha brew w/ hydrometer?" Tags="|hydrometer|kombucha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15754" CreationDate="2015-07-14T23:26:17.033" Score="2" ViewCount="776" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to buy kegging equipment and keg my next batch of beer, and I ran into some yeast filters for sale that remove yeast specifically for kegging. Is this a necessary step? I know that when I usually bottle without adding fresh yeast for bottle conditioning, I have a noticeable layer of yeast at the bottom of every bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens otherwise if the yeast is transferred into the kegs from the secondary fermentation: will the beer come out cloudy, or will the yeast stay at the bottom of the keg? If I do add filtration, how much will it change taste/color of the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, I'm planning to build a keezer so the beer will be stored/served cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12426" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T00:14:34.067" Title="Kegging - Is it necessary to filter yeast?" Tags="|yeast|kegging|filtering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15753" CreationDate="2015-07-15T00:01:17.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It it not a necessary step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/68/whats-the-point-of-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;Neither is &quot;secondary&quot;, usually.&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[EDIT: I missed a potential misconception you have about transfering the yeast when kegging:] Usually, you will attempt to minimize how much yeast you transfer into the kegs, as instead of using priming sugar and yeast to carbonate, you can force-carbonate by applying direct and measured CO₂ pressure to the keg to achieve exactly the level of carbonation appropriate for the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The minimal yeast you do accidentally transfer, especially in a kegerator, will continue to flocculate and will collect at the bottom of the keg. The first few pulls from the keg will be cloudy, but that will diminish over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do introduce filtration, it really depends on on how &quot;finished&quot; the beer is before you rack into the keg. Yeast does help in the conditioning process, and can clean up some compounds and off-flavors.  That being said, if you had a solid primary at the proper temperature and some reasonable time later (say a 2-week primary), you're not going to gain a whole lot by retaining the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of styles that traditionally are pretty cloudy (not from yeast, but other suspended particulates) which filtering would also interact with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think filtering should be the exception, not the rule. The vast majority of styles can be made and kegged perfectly well without filtering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T00:14:34.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15752" CreationDate="2015-07-15T00:21:15.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always measure the specific gravity of any liquid with a hydrometer, but unless you know the &lt;em&gt;starting&lt;/em&gt; gravity (as in, pre-fermentation), the reading won't actually tell you much. This on top of the fact that the byproducts of a mixed fermentation (alcohol, acetic or lactic acid, &amp;amp;c) will all have different densities makes a hydrometer reading less-than-reliable for telling you how much sugar is left, though it can probably get you in the ballpark. Of course it's fairly easy with beer (as long as you know the starting gravity) because the only significant byproduct is alcohol and you can easily estimate, by comparing to the original reading, how much gravity is left based on the density of alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to get in the habit of taking gravities regularly with your kombucha, you could probably figure out when a good time to bottle is. This will depend on having a decent idea of how low the gravity will go, which can be tricky with mixed/wild cultures. Also, though I've never taken gravities on my kombucha, I imagine if you like it dry/tart it might go below a specific gravity of 1.000/0° Plato, which means you couldn't measure it with a regular hydrometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good thing is that kombucha ferments much more slowly than typical cultured-yeast ferments will, so you're less likely to over-carbonate. A good, no-frills method is to bottle some up in a plastic soda bottle and use the feel of squeezing the bottle to judge how much pressure has built up, which will give you a good idea of carbonation levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T00:21:15.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15759" CreationDate="2015-07-15T09:39:30.730" Score="0" ViewCount="609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just experimenting with the 'Brew It!' tool on Brewers' Friend and the instructions say that for a 12 litre boil, I should add 8.8 litres to the kettle along with 5kg of dry malt extract which equates to a further 3.2 litres totaling 12L - my target volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to reasonably assume that Brewers' Friend knows it's stuff but I have always taken the boil volume to be the water only!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I been doing it wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the purposes of future brewing and consistency should I just adjust my recipe so the pre boil water volume reads 12L?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T22:01:37.073" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T22:01:37.073" Title="Should My Boil Volume Include The Volume of Dry Malt Extract?" Tags="|boil|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15750" CreationDate="2015-07-15T13:09:55.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google for polystyrene wine storage. Those containers are great for shipping beer and you can get them in various sized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have your container get bubble wrap and place a double layer of bubble wrap in the bottom of each pocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cool your beer to close to 0C (32F), Don't worry, it won't freeze. Just before shipping, remove the beers from the fridge and wrap with news paper and place in pocket. Fill remaining open space with news paper, close container and have it shipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bubble wrap will protect against damage from someone putting the box down hard and the news paper and polystyrene will help insulate the temperature. If you are worried that the news paper will leave odors on the bottles that the judges may pick up on, wrap your bottles in plastic (Glad/Saran wrap) before wrapping in news paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put a FRAGILE and THIS SIDE UP sticker on the container. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give a bottle to the postman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T13:19:49.150" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T13:19:49.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15756" CreationDate="2015-07-15T14:35:26.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It it dry or liquid malt extract? Dry malt extract will dissolve into the water, leading to a minimal volume change, whereas liquid malt extract still has a substantial portion of water, and will have somewhat like the volume change you describe, though I don't believe it's quite 1:1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, your boil volume should be the boil volume. With dry extract, that does not include the negligable &quot;volume&quot; of the extract. With liquid extract, that will include some portion of the volume of the extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T14:35:26.643" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15731" CreationDate="2015-07-15T14:52:53.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't be concerned. When you removed the stopper, you didn't allow it to come into contact with a non-sterile (potentially bacteria-ridden) surface, so there was no potential for transfer of bacteria onto it (other than contact with the air, which does not pose a significant risk).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12300" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T14:52:53.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15761" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-15T15:02:43.447" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am kegging my first batch ever in the next two weeks. It's a double IPA. My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What pressure is ideal for serving.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;do i need to turn off my tank every night? Will leaving it on cause constant carbonation, or will the beer eventually stop carbonating? I am concerned that leaving it at desired serving pressure will mean the carbonation will continue to increase as long as the tank is on. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T16:49:15.483" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T16:49:15.483" Title="kegging and carbonation" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15762" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-15T15:31:24.177" Score="3" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just found out that roaches harbor in cardboard boxes. Not to mention that cardboard breaks down easily when filled with damp, freshly sanitized bottles. Does anyone have suggestions for plastic versions that I can store finished bottles of beer in? &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2692/cardboard-alternatives-to-bottle-cases-for-storage&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; was posted some time ago but the answer that was chosen leads to a website that no longer exists! What are the current solutions? I'd also like to not have to build my own crate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T19:44:28.127" Title="plastic storage for bottles" Tags="|equipment|bottles|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15761" CreationDate="2015-07-15T15:44:48.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It depends on how your system is configured, mainly on the length, inner diameter, and material of the liquid lines. &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/yeast/item/164-balancing-your-draft-system-advanced-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; explains it better than I could. Most home draft systems seem to settle in somewhere between 8 and 12 PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to turn off the gas. There is only so much CO2 that will dissolve into the beer at a given temperature and pressure. Once all that CO2 is dissolved in the beer, it has reached an equilibrium, and no more CO2 will dissolve. The goal is to balance your system such that that equilibrium is reached at an acceptable serving pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do turn off my gas when I'm not serving or carbonating just because I want to avoid leaking my entire tank due to a tiny leak. It has happened before, and I don't want it to happen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't as hard as it sounds. I use five-gallon pin lock corny kegs with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegconnection.com/2-faucet-fridge-homebrew-kegerator-kit/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this conversion kit&lt;/a&gt;. I didn't have to cut any lines or anything; it was pretty well balanced out of the box. I currently serve at 9 PSI and keep my fridge at about 38F.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T15:44:48.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15762" CreationDate="2015-07-15T16:29:13.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/fastrack-beer-bottle-drying-storage-system.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FastRack&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to pay that much, you can use plastic containers with newspaper packed around the bottle to keep them from knocking into each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T16:29:13.067" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2015-07-15T19:31:41.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good thread, I'll give my two cents.  +++++ 1 for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beerclings.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BeerClings&lt;/a&gt;.  Easy, affordable, and most important reusable. I got tired of trying to do them myself and found these to work the best of all the ones I tried online. They will definitely last the longest. I think they have the best design studio as well, tons of clip art and templates to work with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12428" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T19:31:41.807" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-07-15T19:31:41.807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15235" CreationDate="2015-07-16T03:16:45.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, LME production has come a long way in the last 20-30 years (according to John Palmer of &lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt;), and extract back then wasn't very good to begin with. Even if it were still somehow good after 20 years, it probably wouldn't be that great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12431" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T03:16:45.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15750" CreationDate="2015-07-16T06:48:15.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most reliable way to get you beer shipped in China is as checked baggage on a plane. It will be quick, partly air conditioned and only a few people will have the opportunity to throw it on the ground. I don't think you could even get on a train with bottles, because of the restrictions on liquids. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, local pro brewers and european importers only ship beer warm, because refrigerated shipping is almost nonexistent in China.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T06:48:15.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15731" CreationDate="2015-07-16T14:19:13.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a lot of times that there is a layer of protection, when the ferment is going strong, the pressure of the bubbles actually push any contaminants out of the stopper hole.  The layer of foam created by the ferment is also a protection from contaminants.  My airlock had the ferment bubbling into the airlock, so I had to take it off and clean it, and add it back.  Everyone stated that this is natural and if done correctly it would not contaminate the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is always a possibility of contamination, but if you are aware of it and protect your brew from it, you should be fine.  There are natural combatants to contamination going on when the ferment is in full force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12417" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T14:19:13.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15778" CreationDate="2015-07-16T19:20:57.603" Score="0" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to make a fruit batch for my wife and I have read on when to add the fruit and how, but is there a recipe that you should stay away from?  This my be subjective to a point, but I don't think a Bock would be a good starting point.  What wort would be recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12417" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T12:42:29.967" Title="What is the best type of ale/lager that you can add fruit to?" Tags="|fruit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15775" CreationDate="2015-07-16T19:50:22.407" Score="2" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making cider for the first time. I purchased a gallon of organic apple juice with no other ingredients besides the apples. I sort of saw it as a two-for-one, I got the apple juice I needed as well as the vessel I needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sanitized all my equipment, but just left the juice in the carboy (besides the cup or so that I took out to heat up and add yeast to). Should I have poured the juice into another (sanitized) vessel, sanitized the carboy, and then poured it back in the carboy? Or was what I did fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7963" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T21:11:08.260" Title="Can I assume that an unopened glass jug containing the juice I want to ferment is sanitary?" Tags="|cider|sanitation|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15771" CreationDate="2015-07-16T19:50:29.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely not a bock...you want something that doesn't have a lot of flavor on it's own, generally (although I have added chanterelle mushrooms to a wee heavy).  Good bases for fruit beers are something like A. wheat (not hefeweizen), or a blond ale.  Things that won't conflict with the fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T19:50:29.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15771" CreationDate="2015-07-16T19:57:37.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is ultimately subjective, but historical tradition and commercial success does suggest there's an objective aspect, too. These are some of the things I've seen and/or experienced that work better/more accessibly than others:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blonde ale (Strawberry blonde, &amp;amp;c.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hefeweissen/wheat ale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Berliner Weisse (traditionally with a shot of woodruff or raspberry syrup; blueberry, apricot, peach (Dogfish Head Festina Peche is a great example))&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lambic (Framboise (raspberry), Kriek (cherry), Cassis (currant), Pomme (apple))&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you look at something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ratebeer.com/beerstyles/fruit-beer/40/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RateBeer's Fruit Beer ratings list&lt;/a&gt;, you'll see entries for almost every style category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T19:57:37.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15772" CreationDate="2015-07-16T19:58:21.857" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you were planning on heating the juice itself to a high enough temperature to kill anything in it, it's not really going to matter.  Any bacteria or wild yeasts present on the inside of the carboy will also be in the juice itself already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the juice is labeled as having been pasteurized, then it and its container are probably reasonably sanitary already.  If not, heating the juice would be necessary if you don't want foreign microbes present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2366" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T21:11:08.260" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T21:11:08.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14965" CreationDate="2015-07-17T08:00:33.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late answer, but here goes:&#xA;Look through the existing profiles to something that matches your setup the closest. Copy that profile and give it a new name.&#xA;I have a 3 tier system with a hot liquor tank, a drinks cooler with false bottom for mash tun and a stainless steel kettle.&#xA;First: get a large measuring jug and fill it to the top value. Pour this into your mashtun. (Keep count of how much you pour in). Repeat this step until you have the extraction hole (where the wort will pour from) covered. Now, tap out the water into your measuring jug until the water stops. Measure the difference - this is your mash tun dead space.&#xA;Next: Do exactly the same thing with your kettle.&#xA;Depending on your fermenter and method of beer extraction you can also use this technique there.&#xA;Next: Measure the weight of your kettle. Fill your kettle with water (30 liters is close enough to normal wort amounts for 18 liter batch) and start heating it up like you would on a normal brewday. When the water reaches a rolling boil you need to start your 60 minute timer. DO NOT CLOSE THE KETTLE! After 60 minutes switch the heat off and allow the water to cool to a safe temp. Measure the weight of the kettle with water. Subtract the kettle weight and then calculate the boil-off volume.&#xA;Mashtun temp loss is something that you can only really calculate when doing a mash, so make careful notes.&#xA;Remember to also test temp loss during transfer as that seems to be my biggest headache in hitting my mashtemp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T08:00:33.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15762" CreationDate="2015-07-17T12:39:15.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to a plastic store, a catering store, or something similar and say you are looking for glass racks. There are many versions and something should work for you. Remember to take a bottle with to measure (width and height). Remember to ask about the weight that the rack can handle (if you want to store full bottles in the rack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR: Make friends with your local macro and ask if you can have some of their old crates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR: Make Your Own! &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Plywood-beer-crate/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Plywood-beer-crate/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T12:39:15.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15771" CreationDate="2015-07-17T12:42:29.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To make something your wife would like start by looking at what she likes to eat. Is she into tart or sweet food? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets assume she likes chocolate; then look at what goes well with chocolate: oranges, cherries, vanilla... you get the point. Then get a beer that represents the chocolate (stout/porter) and add the fruit that you decided on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets assume your wife likes more tart things, then the easiest answer is lambic, but a pilsner or similar beer (bready/crackers) with some lemon zest to become a lemon tart could work. A weiss with tart fruit also works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, take a beer that she likes and taste the beer with different fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T12:42:29.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15711" CreationDate="2015-07-17T15:13:33.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hopunion.com/new-zealand-dr.-rudi/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hopunion.com/new-zealand-dr.-rudi/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used before as flavour (with great results using extract) but it's dual purpose. Why not try a SMASH (Single Malt And Single Hop) beer with a neutral yeast!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T15:13:33.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15781" CreationDate="2015-07-17T21:19:35.690" Score="2" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I were trying to ferment some raspberries using the WYEAST 4766 Cider yeast. Now it's 1 day after we activated the package and it is still only partially inflated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should we buy a new one or do you think it is just a slowly growing yeast and it should be fine? Did anybody else have experiences when using this yeast for mead/wine or cider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks for your answer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12439" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T22:30:25.433" Title="Worried about extent of inflation of Wyeast 4766 package" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|yeast-cultures|wyeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15780" CreationDate="2015-07-17T22:30:25.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Wyeast smack packs have a small nutrient pouch inside the main pouch (which contains the yeast slurry). The nutrients will cause the yeast to &quot;wake up&quot; and consume the sugars in the nutrient liquid, causing the swelling. However, this is a function not only of the yeast, but also of the date of manufacture, the viability/vitality of the yeast and the ambient temperature. As you say, though, some yeasts naturally have different activity profiles than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should check the pack date to see how long ago the yeast was manufactured, but in any case you're fine using the packet before it's &quot;fully inflated&quot;. For starters, I regularly smack the nutrient packet immediately before I pitch the yeast into my starter wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T22:30:25.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15782" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-18T20:58:51.167" Score="1" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have  stout fermenting and it has been in my carboy for a little over a week. Yesterday I opened the carboy to make a small intial addition of coffee beans and cacao nibs. Well when I opened it and smelled the brew, I got a strange almost plastic or rubber smell coming up from it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this due to how young it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I worry about it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did everything down to the last detail so I cannot imagine it is contaminated. I hope the smell goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T15:49:55.570" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T15:49:55.570" Title="Should I worry about this smell?" Tags="|fermentation|stout|carboy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-18T21:50:49.057" Score="1" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;My refrigerator is full but I am kegging two Saisons today. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on letting them sit in room temperature for 2 weeks and then moving them into the refrigerator when they are fully carbonated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that my room temperature in the day is about 78F, but my refrigerator is 40*F, how do I set the PSI to account for the change in temperature 2 weeks from now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I simply set the PSI to account for room temperature, and then change the PSI downward after I move the kegs into the colder environment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T09:25:06.427" Title="Carbonating a keg outside of a fridge until it is ready" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="180" CreationDate="2015-07-19T08:39:35.203" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Destruction of most microorganisms (whether or not pathogenic) on wounds, clothing, or hard surfaces, through the use of chemicals or heat. See also disinfection and sterilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12441" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2015-07-19T13:01:25.093" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T13:01:25.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15782" CreationDate="2015-07-19T13:41:28.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of water do you brew with? Chlorinated tap water can cause a rubber-like (Chlorophenol) taste or smell. If you pass tap water through a chlorine-removing filter, it might be time for a filter change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12442" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T13:41:28.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-19T20:01:48.307" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing a porter, pitched my yeast and started with a 1.056. My air conditioner broke for 1 day and the beer got to about 80 degrees after about 1 1/2 weeks of fermentation.  Beer has been sitting at 1.036 for two weeks now. Can I repitch? Or is it needing to be dumped? And if I can repitch, does it need to be transferred to a new bucket first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12445" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T18:59:05.863" Title="Yeast Problems!" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|repitch|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15787" CreationDate="2015-07-20T08:59:35.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no reason to dump a beer that isn't contaminated. After 1.5 weeks and a trip to 80F, the beer should be done fermenting. And warm temps late in fermentation have little impact on flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try stirring up the yeast, but a re-pitch of active yeast is probably worth doing. If you can make a starter that would really help, since the partly fermented beer contains no oxygen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transferring is unnecessary, and risky with the residual sugar still present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T08:59:35.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15782" CreationDate="2015-07-20T09:04:41.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would worry about that smell. Several of my local home brewers have made plastic flavored beer, it doesn't go away, just gets stronger. When it happened to me, the beer went away, and the fermenter too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T09:04:41.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15783" CreationDate="2015-07-20T09:25:06.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pressure will drop when you chill the kegs, and 'volumes of CO2' is constant (when the keg is closed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You find your target 'volumes' on your favorite carbonation table, follow the curve through the higher temps, and extrapolate a line out to 78F (off the bottom of any chart I have).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess from the chart at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;kegerators.com&lt;/a&gt; would around 30psi at 78F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also think it's better to end up higher than low - I have taken all the CO2 out of a keg of clear beer in less than an hour by pulling the relief valve and shaking it. Putting it back seems to take longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T09:25:06.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15787" CreationDate="2015-07-20T11:08:03.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd pop the lid to let in some air, then reattach the lid and give fermenter a good shake, to stir things up, wait a day to see if it kicks off again, if not as pepi suggests use a starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T11:08:03.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12934" CreationDate="2015-07-20T11:12:43.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd usually wait at least a week for conditioning and clearing. The top tap may reduce the time taken to clear the top layer, but you likely want to leave at least a week to allow the flavours to mellow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T11:12:43.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15787" CreationDate="2015-07-20T14:16:57.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start by just swirling the carboy so that the yeast bed breaks up. Leave it for a few days and take another reading. It there is no or little change, then do as Pepi says; make a starter and re-pitch to the same fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T14:16:57.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15787" CreationDate="2015-07-20T18:59:05.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No matter what the gravity reads, that beer is done.  What was the OG?  Was it an extract batch?  I doubt repitching will make any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T18:59:05.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9482" CreationDate="2015-07-20T21:04:06.610" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple methods for producing clear beer. The least expensive in terms of money is to place the beer in secondary for 1 to two weeks. I would not let my beer set in primary much longer than it take to ferment. It can give you off taste if you do so. But flavor is subjective right?The longer a brew sets in secondary the clarity will occur. But who wants to wait weeks to enjoy their brew? I have tried both gelatin warm and cold. Cold crashing produces much better results. bit now your talking refrigeration. If you are bottle conditioning your beer as other posters have suggested, you will not have clear beer all the way to the end and sediment will occur in the bottom of the bottle. Kegging your beer gives you the best opportunity to provide crystal clear beer. But more equipment more money. If you are kepping try the gelatine, then filter 5 microns or less. If you still have chill haze after all that Irish moss and a longer boil time 90 mins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12448" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T21:04:06.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15799" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:10:02.983" Score="1" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local supplier is selling refurbished cornelius kegs for a decent price and I would like to pick one up. I don't know the first thing about kegging though, and more importantly what additional supplies I need to keg up a brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a quick look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/wiki/doku.php?id=beginner_kegging_guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tutorial&lt;/a&gt; but am still a bit confused. Here's my list so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keg:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzAIH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gas Regulator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dgVL9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Gas Regulator&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gas Tank (I'm sceptical about this):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/38aDd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer/Gas line and fittings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJDbT.png&quot; alt=&quot;disconnects&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer Tap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bTvgz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Seems quite pricey but if it's far superior then I'd get it)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oflzm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer Line (Only needed with compensator tap?):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wjmFQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Beer line&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gas Line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EP3ya.png&quot; alt=&quot;Gas Line&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Washers for good measure?:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QYMSr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this seem like a reasonable shopping list? Do I need one / more of anything? &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is my supplier, if anyone wants to make alternative suggestions, they would be more than welcome to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T15:38:54.877" Title="Additional equipment for cornelius kegging" Tags="|kegging|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15798" CreationDate="2015-07-21T18:40:38.510" Score="0" ViewCount="1745" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm still pretty new to home brewing, I recently finished my first batch of cider from a kit and the end results where ok. Nothing amazing, but it was something I made and feels extra rewarding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now onto the question, I plan to start my 2nd brew tomorrow, again, from a cider kit (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wilko.com/cider+beer-brewing/wilko-forest-fruits-cider-kit/invt/0318709&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This kit to be precise&lt;/a&gt;). I will be using tap water for my brew, since it's not really possible for me to transport 20 litres (5 gallons) of bottled water, without a car. I want to know, at what stage should I add my campden tablet(s) to remove all chlorine from the water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I put the water in the bucket tonight, add the tablet(s) and then leave it 24hr, before adding the mixture, sugar and yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, should I wait till tomorrow, add the sugar and mixture, then add the tablets and wait 24 hours before adding the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus Question: Best ways to add carbonation to my cider? The sugar added into he pressure keg created lots of c02 to push the liquid out the tap, but the cider itself is flat when tasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks and sorry for the long post :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12339" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T18:44:26.457" Title="When should I add campden tablets?" Tags="|cider|campden|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15797" CreationDate="2015-07-21T18:44:26.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tablets work pretty much instantaneoulsy, so as long as you crush the tabs well before using them (keep in mind that 1 will treat up to 20 gal.) and give then 5 min. to work, you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your CO2 question, you need to have a CO2 tank to dispense.  The sugar you added will carb the cider, but you'll lose it all if you don't add more CO2 to dispense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T18:44:26.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15796" CreationDate="2015-07-21T23:55:56.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's too much of a shopping list, and especially to start off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For kegging, you need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a keg ;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a way to introduce CO₂&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a way to dispense beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you've listed, you will need &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the regulator, and also:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a CO₂ tank to go along with it (not listed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gas-line tubing from the regulator to the gas quick disconnect (QD) you listed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the gas QD you listed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or, the hand-held &quot;CO₂ Charger&quot; thing&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;note that this includes a gas QD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you don't need both. And you really want the CO₂ tank; 5lb is a common size, and will last a handful of batches. Those handheld chargers are not anything but an emergency/party measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For dispensing beer, you need &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &quot;beer tap&quot; you listed&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;note that this includes a liquid QD, a bit of tubing, and a &quot;picnic&quot; faucet to control the pouring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or, the combination of:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a liquid QD, as listed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;beer-line tubing, as listed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some sort of faucet (as listed, except not)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start off with the beer tap. It has an unfortunately-too-short beer-line length, but it's cheap and will work out of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested in the beer faucet/tap, note that you would also need some way to &lt;em&gt;mount&lt;/em&gt; that faucet such that you can actually pull the handle. Usually this is done by mounting the shank through some sort of wall or draft-line riser. The faucet connects to the shank on one end, the shank has an end-cap that the beer line connects to, and the beer line continues on to the liquid QD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not want chrome-plated taps. Beer has a low pH, and will strip the chrome off the tap, over time. Stainless steel is the only way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I specify &quot;gas QD&quot; and &quot;liquid QD&quot; above. They are not interchangeable; gray=gas, black=beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that pin-lock and ball-lock kegs are two different things; their disconnects are not interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mentioned the &quot;too-short&quot; beer line length, above. The line length (and a couple of other properties) determines how much &quot;resistence&quot; the line provides. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.draughtquality.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;An ideally-balanced draft system&lt;/a&gt; is one where the CO₂ regulator is providing the appropriate amount of pressure to keep the beer at its style-dependent ideal carbonation, and then the dispensing side of the draft system is tuned such that by the time the beer reaches the glass, almost all the pressure is &quot;consumed&quot;, leading to a pour that's of sufficient speed without over or under foaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the (apparently) very short beer-line length on the &quot;beer tap&quot; is going to lead to an out of balance system. But I over state this, it is not a big deal, especially getting started. I used a similar picnic tap for a couple of years before building a keezer with proper faucets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5ft of beer line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a barbed liquid QD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;barbed picnic tap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for roughly the same price as the pre-assembled &quot;beer tap&quot;, and that's a reasonable line length/resistance for a much wider range of beer styles. (Assuming 3/16&quot; ID line at about 45F serving temp.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice that you have 5/16 and 3/8 line listed there; the gas line size does not matter. The beer line size does, as per that Draught Quality manual and this notion of line resistance.  3/16 is a good, versatile size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure that the &lt;em&gt;barbs&lt;/em&gt; are 1/16&quot; bigger than the line ID. If they're the same size (3/16 vs. 3/16) you'll not only need clamps, but you'll need to clamp them down seriously. If the barb is 1/16&quot; bigger, then you'll need to heat the tubing to get it on, but you probably won't need a clamp. Even for gas lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the o-ring set … I remove and clean most of my o-rings every time I keg a batch, and replace them once a year. If the keg was &quot;reconditioned&quot; it might have had new o-rings swapped in; they should specify. But if you're unsure, it's always nice to have a set of o-rings around in case they get funky or nicked/damaged and the keg won't hold pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, this is my recommended parts list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;regulator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[not listed] CO₂ tank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gas QD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gas line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;beer tap kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oring set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last note, I don't know anything about John Guest fittings. I've heard about them mostly from UK homebrewers, online (I'm in the US). Everything in my keezer is standard MFL/flare fittings and/or hose-barbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T00:16:31.727" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T00:16:31.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15804" CreationDate="2015-07-22T05:26:11.460" Score="2" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is kind of for the chemists here, but I'm open to any ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/15787/yeast-problems&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; Denny Conn, who is far more experienced than me, asserted that a beer is likely finished fermenting, despite being at 1.036 (from a start of 1.056). This would be a beer that's about 2.6% alcohol and 9% unfermentables. To me, that would be undrinkable. Many people suggested rousing the yeast and/or re-pitching to finish out the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important point is, how do you know whether that supposedly stuck beer has any fermentable sugar left? The yeast might have given up early, which is a common enough problem. Or maybe the mash temp was missed by a lot? Or maybe something toxic got into the beer, causing the yeast to die early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than re-pitching and hoping for the best, is there any way to measure the simple sugars? I usually suggest tasting the beer, but the amount of hops will affect the interpretation (as will the taster). I'm hoping for a test as quick and clear as a starch test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T16:18:37.073" Title="Best way to estimate remaining fermentable sugars?" Tags="|fermentation|stuck-fermentation|chemistry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6058" CreationDate="2015-07-22T07:21:17.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I do not know the exact process, if sterility is the aim, it seems that all that is required is to create a positive air pressure sterile box(PAPSB). This can be done with lexan, a strong fan, and a few high grade HEPA filters. You can create a near sterile environment in this manner with the aid of a strong sanitizer and UV lights. Using this PAPSB you should be able to perform all of the necessary procedures outlined. Of course the box will need to be outfitted with gloves to allow manipulation of objects in the box. The system I am suggesting is similar to those used by CDC members when handling various bacteria and virii. A guide to creating such a box is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/answers/Homemade-glove-box-clean-room-for-DIY-hard-drive-r/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12453" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T07:21:17.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15466" CreationDate="2015-07-22T13:43:59.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the other answers suggested, it might be yeast in suspension, and that would be my bet too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably noticed that the beer was clear when you poured your first glass. But the beer in the bottom of your bottle always* contains some yeast sediment. When you poured that your beer turned cloudy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know of no other explanation for the phenomenon you described other than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*unless you filtered your brew with the specific purpose of avoiding this, or lagered for a very long time and used forced carbonation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12585" LastEditorUserId="12019" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T13:01:12.080" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T13:01:12.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15800" CreationDate="2015-07-22T16:18:37.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to determine if you have a wort problem or a yeast problem.  The way to do that is with a fast ferment test (sometimes called forced ferment test).  Put some of the wort in a small sanitized container.  You need enough to be able to take a gravity reading.  Add a LOT of yeast to the sample...even bread yeast is fine for this since we want to know if the wort will ferment any more under any condition.  Leave it in a warm room for a few days and then take a gravity reading.  if it's changed, then you know the wort can ferment more.  f it hasn't, then the beer is done and more yeast won't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T16:18:37.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T22:23:43.870" Score="4" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;We fight to keep the fermentation temperature controlled, usually constant, but the fermentation is an exothermic activity, so in one side we try to remove energy, and in the other (inside, mainly in the middle), the energy is produced, and keep increasing along the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if we measure the temperature in the fermenter walls we'll get one very near to the last one applied in the environment that is cooling the fermenter. But if we measure inside the fermenter (the wort), and keep going from edges to the center of the fermenter, the temperature grows progressively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the thermodynamics in fermentation when cooling is done from fermenter walls, if we measure the most hot point, we will have a lot of wort (in the fermenter edges) some degrees below the expected temperature. So if we measure it in the edges, we'll have a lot of wort (in the center) above the expected temperature.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zUbqI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zUbqI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the dynamics of fermentation temperature control, how/where is the best spot to measure the temperature ? Center, edges, 1/2 from the center ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T13:29:01.827" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T13:01:23.457" Title="Dynamics temperature measurement" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15805" CreationDate="2015-07-22T23:39:12.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measuring the wort temperature directly gives the most accurate information. To do this, you'll need to hook up a thermowell to your fermenter. There are a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=fermenter%20thermowell&amp;amp;client=safari&amp;amp;rls=en&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0CAcQ_AUoAWoVChMIu8D54PPvxgIVjrIeCh3DfAP3&amp;amp;biw=1365&amp;amp;bih=871&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;variety of styles&lt;/a&gt; for different types of fermenters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second best option is to tape the temperature probe to the side of your fermenter and cover with an insulator like styrofoam or bubble wrap. The reading won't be as accurate, but is good enough for most purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Temperature dynamics of the wort shall be the key to keep the wort homogeneous along the fermentation, and so, minimize/neutralize the effects of temperature elasticity. Take a look to the comments (where the issue and answer are discussed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T13:01:23.457" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T13:01:23.457" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10124" CreationDate="2015-07-23T06:35:48.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also use a water bath for controlling fermentation temps.  I found a bluetooth weatherhawk temperature sensor that reports to a mobile app and it is waterproof.  So I built an stc 1000 temp controller to selectively switch between an aquarium heater &amp;amp; small recirc pump on the hot side and a peltier liquid chiller on the cold side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12459" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T06:35:48.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13405" CreationDate="2015-07-23T22:11:32.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check the probe type is correct in the PID firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calibrate the temp close to where the typical PID setting will be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set the degree offset in the PID to be equal to a trusted thermometer at that typical temp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6528" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T22:11:32.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10124" CreationDate="2015-07-24T04:28:04.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lacrossetechnology.com/alerts/temperature-humidity-monitor-general-purpose-wet-probe.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;La Crosse Alerts&lt;/a&gt;, its a WIFI based temperature probe. It's on Amazon for about $75-$80 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0081UR76G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to the product&lt;/a&gt;). It has been very accurate, and beyond the great live chart available both on an app and website, you can download the data directly to a spreadsheet. You can also set alerts to your phone or email based on parameters you set!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps good luck!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lgEQI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lgEQI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T04:28:04.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15823" CreationDate="2015-07-24T15:16:31.690" Score="1" ViewCount="2024" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there such a thing as low-profile gas/liquid disconnects for ball lock corny kegs?  I'm curious if there's anything commercially available that is notably shorter in height than the typical black/gray plastic disconnects that are commonly available.  Since those direct the tubing at an upward angle, the total height of the disconnect plus tubing is around 3 inches, which can present challenges in height-constrained kegerator/keezer configurations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I did try googling for this, but the existence of low profile sankey keg disconnects makes that form of research challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2366" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T10:00:05.027" Title="Does anyone make low-profile ball lock disconnects?" Tags="|kegging|corny-keg|kegerator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15796" CreationDate="2015-07-24T15:38:54.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to expand on something jsled said regarding the handheld CO2 charger; those small cartridges do not contain sufficient CO2 to &lt;em&gt;carbonate&lt;/em&gt; a batch of beer.  They can be used for &lt;em&gt;dispensing&lt;/em&gt; beer that has already been carbonated by other means.  They are handy if you want to be able to take a keg camping, over to a friend's house, or just out in the back yard for a party, and you don't want to have to lug a big CO2 tank and fragile regulator.  In my experience, it will likely require two of those small cartridges to dispense one 5 gallon batch of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2366" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T15:38:54.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15102" CreationDate="2015-07-24T15:52:36.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming everything is stored properly cool, it isn't necessary to worry about cleaning the tap line in between pours, even if it takes you several months to finish the keg.  If beer has sat unmoving in the beverage tubing for an extended period (a couple weeks), that small portion of beer may be stale; in this case I'd just run off the first bit into a spare glass and discard it.  Aside from that, you should be fine.  Trust your taste buds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2366" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T15:52:36.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15726" CreationDate="2015-07-24T19:21:12.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a big beer like that, I usually do a month in primary and at least a month in secondary.  I haven't had any trouble using those plastic water bottles for extended secondary fermentations.  My biggest concern with those bottles is that they might allow oxygen in, but I almost always bottle condition my big beers for a few months, and the yeast in the bottles will scavenge any oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11991" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T19:21:12.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-24T22:33:43.133" Score="1" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should I use Aroma or Bittering hop on my FWH?&#xA;The time between the FWH and the boiling should be taken into account or it does not matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12465" LastEditorUserId="3056" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T09:55:05.303" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T01:03:10.023" Title="Which kind of hop should be used on a First Wort Hopped (FWH) beer?" Tags="|boil|hop-utilization|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15814" CreationDate="2015-07-25T16:21:54.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use what would be my 20 min, flavor addition.  My usual hop schedule is FWH, 60 min., and flameout and/or dry hop.  I count the bitterness from FWH the same as a 20 min. addition because that's what it tastes like to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T16:21:54.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-25T20:35:13.900" Score="0" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im looking to make a golden ale from a kit but I want it to have a massive hoppy hit when you take a sip, any ideas on what type to add and dates before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8304" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T09:46:25.987" Title="Hops to put in a golden ale to give a big hit of hops" Tags="|hops|secondary-fermentation|brewing|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15816" CreationDate="2015-07-26T00:42:27.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try to add saaz at the end of boiling (0 min) and dry hopping with more saaz 2 days before bottling.  You could check hops characterists at hopunion: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hopunion.com/saaz/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.hopunion.com/saaz/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12465" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T00:42:27.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15818" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-26T15:54:07.453" Score="2" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;i'm new to the brewing game and am currently waiting for a few whole grain brews to come of age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing i'd like to do is purchase a larger mash boiler and dedicate a bit of space in the shed for my 'micro-brewery'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes a good boiler? Where should I start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be gratefully received!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rik&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12468" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T16:07:15.417" Title="Mash Boiler – What's a good boiler?" Tags="|mash|mash-tun|boil-kettle|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15818" CreationDate="2015-07-26T16:07:15.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people use propane turkey fryer setups, consisting of a large propane burner and kettle.  The kettle is usually around 6.5-7 gal. so it's barely big enough for a 5 gal. batch, but it works.  I won awards for beer made with one.  The kettles are often AL, but don't let that throw you.  It's perfectly fine and safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T16:07:15.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-26T19:35:40.907" Score="3" ViewCount="1337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 6 Saisons brewing, three using Wyeast 3711 French Saison and three using Wyeast 3724 Belgian Saison. The final gravities on these have been my lowest ever for any batch of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3711's ended up around 0.998-0.999, while the 3724's ended up between 1.004 - 1.0045. *Both started with an OG of 1.050.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that these two strains of yeast do such a good job of converting sugar into alcohol (and CO2), do I need to adjust the amount of priming sugar downwards to avoid an over-carbonated beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit with the recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made three 6 gallon batches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) 100% pilsener&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) 50% pilsener 50% vienna&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) 50% pilsener 50% munich&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These were all mashed at 147-148*F/64.4*C for 90 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then split each batch into two carboys, giving me six, 3-gallon batches total. I made a 2L yeast starter for both the 3711 and 3724, and split them into 3 mason jars each (brewer's friend said I hit the correct cell count given I was using 3 gallon instead of 6 gallon batches). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of the experiement was to see the difference between vienna and munich in a Saison, and also see the difference between 3711 and 3724.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T04:19:35.730" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T22:33:24.167" Title="Bottle Conditioning with Saison Yeast - Any adjustments to priming sugar necessary?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|saison|wyeast|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15820" CreationDate="2015-07-26T21:42:45.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, you don't need to change a thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T21:42:45.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15816" CreationDate="2015-07-27T09:46:25.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;[EDIT] (I only now saw the secondary comment)&#xA;If you want to Dry Hop (add hops after primary fermentation has completed) then I usually add about 50g of the same hops that was the &quot;lead character&quot; in the brew. Dry hopping is usually 3 to 7 days before bottling/kegging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just add the hops to the fermenter. Don't do anything like boiling the hops. Just weight it out, open the fermenter, throw them in and close the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using pellets is the best as they &quot;dissolve&quot; and distribute nicely. For the rest you might need to use a bag that is weighed down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[End of Edit]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;Massive Hoppy Hit&quot; is a bit difficult. Do you want bitter, flavour or aroma? What do you consider a hoppy hit?&#xA;Basically: &#xA;To make it more bitter, add extra hops at beginning of boil.&#xA;To make it taste more hoppy, add hops halfway during boil.&#xA;To make it smell more hoppy, add hops at end of boil or dry hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What flavour/aroma do you want to achieve? Citrus? Then go for Cascade or a similar hop. Berries? Then EKG or similar. Spicy? Then Saaz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High alpha hops will give more bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T09:46:25.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15810" CreationDate="2015-07-27T10:00:05.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the closest to &quot;low profile&quot; that I have seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-bev-stainless-flared.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-bev-stainless-flared.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/STAINLESS-STEEL-GAS-BALL-LOCK-BARBED-P3877.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/STAINLESS-STEEL-GAS-BALL-LOCK-BARBED-P3877.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T10:00:05.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15825" CreationDate="2015-07-27T14:16:40.847" Score="0" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a barleywine in progress that seems to have stalled around 9% ABV with some residual sweetness I'd like to try and reduce.  After 2.5 weeks in primary all activity had stopped so I racked off to fresh fermentor.  Two more weeks with agitation and SG hasn't really fallen any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of pitching Safale US-05 to see if it can drop it a few more SG points.  I've found little advice on how to prepare yeast for such a toxic environment. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=3422665&amp;amp;postcount=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This comment in a post about preparing a starter&lt;/a&gt; argues it's a pointless exercise as only 'unhealthy' yeast will result from highly alcoholic environments.  Sounds a bit wonky to me - I'd expect unhealthy yeast to die and the survivors to be more resilient..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own idea would be to rehydrate as usual in ~25°C water for ~15 mins, then slowly add barleywine over another 30 mins or so to gradually bring it up to 9% before pitching.  Seems more likely to give them a chance to adapt than by pitching straight from being rehydrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All views on this from those with relevant experience very much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Details of (slightly experimental) recipe. Batch ~15L approx - all quantities are estimates as I used the parti-gyle split method..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash - 60 mins @ 67°C (target temps hit)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5.0 kg Marris Otter Pale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2 kg Crystal 120&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil additions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.1 kg roasted barley ('tea' from cold steep)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 kg light DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nottingham yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG 1.083 | FG 1.016&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8069" LastEditorUserId="8069" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T18:03:35.360" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T18:03:35.360" Title="Preparing yeast for secondary fermentation" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|secondary|barleywine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15824" CreationDate="2015-07-27T16:30:07.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No worries...05 will perform fine without anything special.  Rehydrate it for best performance and then just toss it in.  I've gone to 12% ABV with it with no issues.  But my question is, how do you know it's the yeast?  Why isn't it a fermentability of wort issues?  Tell us more about your recipe and procedure in order to help figure out what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T16:30:07.343" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15834" CreationDate="2015-07-27T17:37:00.543" Score="3" ViewCount="822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fermented 5 gallons of cider from 1.044 to 1.0. It's very tart, so I want to add 2 lbs of honey to sweeten it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also want to bottle it with some carbonation. How do I prevent the honey from fermenting it back down to 1.0 and still sweeten the cyser? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at carbonation tablets, but they just appear to be modified sugar cubes.&#xA;If I stop the fermentation with Campden, can I still bottle carb it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2210" LastEditorUserId="8203" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T11:55:22.877" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T11:55:22.877" Title="Sweeting and Bottling a cider/cyser" Tags="|carbonation|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-07-28T22:32:40.620" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15826" CreationDate="2015-07-28T13:22:29.013" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you stop the fermentation with camden, you will not be able to bottle carb it. The camden will prevent the yeast from functioning in the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add the honey, bottle immediately, and once they have carbonated, store the bottles in a cold environment (mid to high 30's) to force the yeast into hibernation. This will allow the yeast to carbonate the bottles, but stop them from eating all the sugar and blowing the bottles apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T13:22:29.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15820" CreationDate="2015-07-28T14:31:43.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope. Keep your priming sugars the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Explanation: The sugars we usually use for carbonation is 100% (or near 100%) fermentable. Thus, it will cause the same amount of carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T14:31:43.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15830" CreationDate="2015-07-28T15:36:16.260" Score="0" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm now the proud owner of a corny keg. I just have a couple of questions about carbonating the beer and then what to do during / after serving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm aware, to carbonate the beer I just need to stick the Keg + Co2 tank at 10/12 PSI in a fridge at around 7C / 45f for a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I can turn the gas off to minimize leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first question is, &lt;strong&gt;what PSI to serve at&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/flexitap-hose-and-out-disconnect-p-65.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this dispenser&lt;/a&gt; + hose + tap solution which has me worried. The length of the tube is about 22cm or 8.66&quot;. The width of the tube seems to be 5/16&quot; or 8mm. Material appears to be PVC braided vinyl. The height from the keg seems negligible given the length of the dispenser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a look at some of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/07/18/getting-a-good-pour-kegged-beer-co2-line-length-and-pressure/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;calculations&lt;/a&gt; for dispensing the beer but I'm don't think I'm doing it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that I would have to bleed the all the gas from the keg before serving and then set the pressure to about 1 PSI to get anything except foam out of it. Would I then have to set the pressure back to 10 PSI to ensure the beer stays carbonated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering if I should bite the bullet and purchase something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/beer-line-assembly-ball-lock-and-tap-p-2556.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to avoid any headaches when pouring day comes around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastEditorUserId="6522" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T15:41:52.460" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T15:54:02.550" Title="Kegging process and serving PSI" Tags="|kegging|keg|corny-keg|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15829" CreationDate="2015-07-28T15:54:02.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the 8&quot; line length of the &quot;Flexi-tap&quot; kit is going to require a much lower serving pressure to pour without excessive foam. The ~5' line length of the &quot;Beer line assembly&quot; will let you keep the ~10psi head pressure to retain ~2.2 volumes CO₂, and serve at the same pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T15:54:02.550" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15832" CreationDate="2015-07-28T16:46:29.627" Score="7" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to try making my own soda this summer, and finally got around to it 10 days ago. &lt;strong&gt;Here's the thing. I didn't have/use any specialized equipment.&lt;/strong&gt; I boiled water with sugar ~15 minutes, and combined it in 2-liter soda bottles with cool tapwater (&lt;strong&gt;dangerous?&lt;/strong&gt;), flavor extracts and sucralose and let it get colder. Then added champagne yeast. Then stashed them in a dark cupboard. Today, I poured a little into a cup and it's fizzy and smells like it has a bit of alcohol, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I know microbes can really mess things up and I just wanted to ask: Could the method I used be dangerous? Is there a risk of me having unintentionally grown a life-threatening bacteria, like the one that causes botulism? Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12475" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T20:42:04.320" Title="Homebrewing Soda, Safety Concerns" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|bottling|safety|soda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15831" CreationDate="2015-07-28T16:48:46.053" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you made is safe, but there's no way to not produce alcohol with that method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T16:48:46.053" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15838" CreationDate="2015-07-28T18:17:26.837" Score="0" ViewCount="998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there was a way to get alcohol in my pressure barrels (those £25, 23l types) to be carbonated similar to shop bought largers and ciders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've completed my first brew which was a 40 pint cider kit, adding normal cane sugar at the end to prime. This has produced enough co2 for me to pour a pint with no problems, but the cider inside is flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't expect anything great from my first homebrew, but I would have liked it to have at least a little fizz. While I can drink hard ciders, I'd prefer if I didn't have too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read today that it's apparently impossible to get that level of carbonation you get in shop bought alcohol, without bottling. At this point I already have 2 kegs, so I'd hate to end up spending £50+ on 90+ bottles and having the kegs go to waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there any way I can get my kegs to produce a fizzy alcohol similar to shop bought products like kopparberg? My kegs say they are rated to 15 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12339" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T04:49:49.030" Title="Using pressure barrels for carbonated larger/cider?" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15826" CreationDate="2015-07-28T19:38:47.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this in HB Forum. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=447120&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=447120&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rack to a fresh carboy leaving all the settled out yeast and sediment behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/2 tsp potassium sorbate per gallon.&#xA;1/4 - 1/2 tsp TOTAL potassium metabisulfite for the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add and stir gently. Give the cider 4-7 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then rack to a fresh carboy and sweeten. If planning on kegging/force carbing, you can rack to the keg instead of a carboy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This my proven method for Sussreserve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how much to sweeten, that is very subjective. You should pull a sample, taste, and add sweetener slowly to your desired level. Then scale up for the entire batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sweeten with more cider, usually in a ratio close to 1:5 or 1:6 (1 gal cider to 5 gal hard cider).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its very easy to make a sweet cider... OR a carbonated cider. But a bit tricky to make one that is BOTH. To do that you must sweeten, then artificially carb (force carb), or sweeten with something non-fermentable (like splenda or xylitol), and bottle carb with priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2210" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T19:38:47.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15820" CreationDate="2015-07-28T22:15:53.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished a saison using 3724. Gravity went from 1.055 to 1.009. I used the amount of priming sugar for 3.2 volumes, and after 1.5 weeks in bottles they are VERY carbonated. I was thinking I might dial mine back next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't think you are in danger of making bottle bombs just from the bottling sugar, so I would say just try them out in a couple weeks and see if an adjustment needs to be made for the next batch and note it in your brew log.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Info for the beer mentioned above. I don't have my brew log on me, but original recipe called for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single infusion mash, Starting Mash Thickness: 1.25 qt/lb, target 155 degrees at dough-in. Rest for 60 min. I mash in a cooler without heat, so the temperature would have dropped probably into the high 140s after 60 minutes.&#xA;Fly sparge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation was 10 weeks (2.5 months) at 70 degrees (temp controlled with a heat wrap). The temp is on the low end for this yeast. I intend to do another batch at a higher temp to compare the yeast character. It was also at about double the standard pitch rate. I do 2.5 gal batches but pitch a whole Wyeast smack-pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12442" LastEditorUserId="12442" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T13:08:19.967" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T13:08:19.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2015-07-28T23:43:04.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do how do I know if it had hops in it?  Im a beginner here and getting my first 20 # tomorrow and wanted to make doggy treats and mostly feed all my birds. First time getting spent corn. I go threw a lot of bird seed and wanted some cheaper ways to feed them? And people gave me the idea of spent corn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12477" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T23:43:04.557" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-07-28T23:43:04.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15839" CreationDate="2015-07-29T15:28:59.293" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought Nordic Saison from Hill Farmstead and loved it. I have a Saison recipe that I really like and I want to try and sour that. I took the dregs from a 750ml of the Nordic and threw it in a small starter (1.030). I'm including a photo after three days. It looks like things are going well but I need to create another starter to bolster the culture. Maybe a step up to 1.040 and maybe 1.5 liters this time. Can someone confirm this and include any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I read some references (after the fact) to using an airlock with sour starters. What's the reason for this and did I ruin it by not doing that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VEelE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VEelE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sour Starter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3871" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T05:26:52.907" Title="Sour Starter From Dregs" Tags="|yeast-starters|sour|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15833" CreationDate="2015-07-30T04:49:49.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your barrel has the possibility to produce a high level of carbonation, but the pressure limit will make getting there a bit tricky. The problem is that at fermentation temps, you'll hit the pressure limit with only a medium level of carbonation. Check this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carbonation chart&lt;/a&gt; and you'll see that the range possible at 15psi goes from moderate (1.7 volumes) to high (3.35)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At lower temps you can get quite a lot of carbonation, but the yeast might not want to do any work at those temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things you could try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try for a temp at the bottom of the range for your&#xA;yeast, and wait a bit to get as much carbonation as possible from the&#xA;dose of sugar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a lager yeast to naturally carbonate at a lower temp, and wait longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Force carbonate, at any temperature you want, and quicker. This popular choice also allows you to keep the keg pressurized as you serve the cider, so it stays fresh.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T04:49:49.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15837" CreationDate="2015-07-30T05:26:52.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very broad question but here's some direction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and the usefulness of this answer depends on whether you are planning on starting a long term barrel project or a medium term sour beer or a very quick sour batch...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something is growing, but it is certainly changing the ratios of different critters. My thinking would be to split the starter up and put each flask into different conditions, depending on what want to do. Since the yeast and various bugs have different optimal growth temperatures, you could grow different things and then recombine them. Maybe some oxygen for the yeast, warmer for lactobacculus, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as oxygen goes, some strains of pedio will tolerate it, but many of these sour cultures will make nasty flavors when exposed to oxygen. So plan on decanting before you pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final note: a microscope is a handy thing to have when you play around with these, at least until your nose is well trained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T05:26:52.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-30T05:37:11.207" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have a keg of carbonated beer and a kegerator. Can I hook the keg up to beer gas (nitrogen, CO2 mix)? Would this affect the beer in any way, or would I have to carbonate with the beer gas to get any advantage to pushing with beer gas? Would I need a stout faucet? Longer lines to balance the system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T19:13:53.357" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T20:38:44.657" Title="Should I use beer gas to dispense carbonated kegs?" Tags="|keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-30T11:52:05.523" Score="2" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently been looking at all-grain brewing and noticed that the recipes tend to have a wide variation in the expected final specific gravity after fermentation. I was wondering how you manage to hit these varying S.G. targets if the yeasts job is to convert sugar to alcohol. Is there some other factor at work here ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12482" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T00:17:52.210" Title="Achieving the Expected SG from a Beer Recipe" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15840" CreationDate="2015-07-30T15:09:19.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you propose is the usual way it's done.  Carbonate with CO2 (that's why it's called carbonation!), then dispense with beer gas.  You do not need a stout faucet.  You will probably need to lengthen your dispense lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T15:09:19.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15841" CreationDate="2015-07-30T15:10:39.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mash temperature and grist composition play the largest role in final gravity.  The key is to control the fermentability of the wort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T15:10:39.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-31T12:40:37.443" Score="1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just kegged my American Stout last night. Gave it a little agitation at 30 psi, then left it at serving pressure around 8-9psi. First taste, it's great! The only slight thing I noticed I can only describe as &quot;the taste of the smell of an empty keg that has been filed and pressurized with CO2&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right to think this is the flavor of partially carbonated beer and will mellow/balance out in a week at serving pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's completely tolerable, I don't even remotely mind the flavor, but just wondering if anyone has experience with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The IIPA I kegged and carbonated the night before was agitated for around 3-5 minutes at 30psi, but the beer was already cold crashed for a week so it instantly absorbed all of the gas and was perfect and ready to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-07T12:21:02.923" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T20:53:32.687" Title="Regarding CO2 in my keg" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|first-time-brewer|keg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15848" CreationDate="2015-07-31T15:36:40.343" Score="8" ViewCount="4871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing for a couple years now, and lately my bottle collection has been more and more difficult to keep clean.  I've always been thorough about rinsing the bottles with hot water immediately after pouring, and then turning them upside down to dry in my dish rack.  Lately, 3/4 or more of my bottles have been left with a hazy residue in the bottom even after that rinse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dirty:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zeBQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zeBQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dirty&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Clean:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jio7v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jio7v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clean&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried soaking them in OxyClean, StarSan, vinegar, and dish soap + water.  My bottle jet doesn't seem to do anything to it, even after any of those soaks.  The only thing that's been successful is using a bottle brush and lots of elbow grease.  That was fine when I only had to scrub a few bottles per batch, but scrubbing almost all of them every time I bottle is getting tiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brews have been extract + steeping grains, and partial boil (except a couple split boils).  My water is moderately hard, about 5 gpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this residue, can I prevent it, and is there an easier way to clean it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6057" LastEditorUserId="6057" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T15:45:51.420" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T22:14:45.167" Title="Stubborn residue in my bottles" Tags="|cleaning|bottles|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-31T16:11:25.927" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll be brewing for my second time in Paraguay and have a quick question in regards to the summer conditions down here. How important is it to maintain the fermentation yeast temperature range after primary fermentation? My main issue here is the heat (I live in a small hut with no AC). Also when it comes to bottling, if it's in the high 80s will that simply equate to a faster carbonation time or it may also potentially have negative effects? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12487" LastEditorUserId="12019" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T13:01:31.540" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T21:53:01.600" Title="Necessity of Fermentation Temp Control while Brewing in Rural Paraguay?" Tags="|ale|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15846" CreationDate="2015-07-31T22:25:24.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be OK, the majority of flavour compounds form in the first three days of primary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will almost certainly get faster carbonation, and you may get a slightly more ester rich aroma but I think you should be fine. I bottle in summer in the UK around 25C/77F and I get good carbonation and no ill effects. I conduct primary at 17C to 20C in the cellar, but bottles get stacked up in the kitchen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T22:25:24.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15845" CreationDate="2015-08-01T03:41:08.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get to do more bottle cleaning than I'd prefer these days, here are my favorite cleaners:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Percarbonate (oxyclean) + trisodium phosphate (mix at 2:1 ratio, 100g per 20L water). Dissolves label glue and 99% of dried on residues, after a day of soaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undiluted (household strength) bleach. Removes all organics in a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your deposit is a mineral, an acid should work. I use a strong white vinegar (10% acetic) on my brewpot, softens up the minerals nicely, but they don't fall off without some scrubbing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last one, I haven't used it at home ever, but 0.1% HCl will make those bottles look like brand new. Handle with care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T03:41:08.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15846" CreationDate="2015-08-01T12:24:08.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might also consider brewing beverages that are ok to brew in warm temperatures, i.e mead. I've had great results with mead at 75°F, using Lalvin wine yeast for white wines, especially Prise de Mousse, the champagne yeast. Plus, you probably have unique honey available to you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12488" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T12:24:08.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15805" CreationDate="2015-08-01T13:35:56.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The temperature will vary, but as fermentation proceeds we will be generating CO2 which aids convection within the fermenter. As such you should not see a large difference, but if you see any then measure 1/2 way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T13:35:56.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15852" CreationDate="2015-08-01T19:05:12.023" Score="2" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;just a quick question regarding the use of bottle rinsers to clean out 500ml PET bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at this bottle rinser here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Bottle-Rinser-AVVINATORE.html#a0212183&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Bottle-Rinser-AVVINATORE.html#a0212183&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on getting these PET bottles: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Coopers_Pet_Bottles_Ox-Bar_24_x_500ml.html#a786381&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Coopers_Pet_Bottles_Ox-Bar_24_x_500ml.html#a786381&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other bottle rinser they sell, which looks very similar, says PET bottles are too large, I was hoping one of you have had experience with bottle rinsers and PET bottles, so could potentially guide me in the right direction towards one that will work properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you have any experience with the bottles (good or bad, would be nice to know before I place an order for 96 of them (4 x 24).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Carl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12339" LastActivityDate="2017-04-15T21:59:36.350" Title="Using a bottle rinser with 500ml PET bottles" Tags="|cleaning|bottles|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15851" CreationDate="2015-08-02T01:05:31.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a very similar pump sprayer to sanitize bottles as large as 1.75L wine bottles, so those 500mL bottles shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T01:05:31.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15158" CreationDate="2015-08-02T03:54:38.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the bug is ready to use, it should NOT smell like fresh ginger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ginger bug should smell like ginger at first, and then as the days go by and you add more ginger and sugar it starts to develop a yeasty/alcoholic smell. &#xA;The bug is made to get the yeast culture going, so it makes sense that it smells like that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can still smell the ginger in mine, but the alcoholic smell is much more pervasive. I just finished making some ginger beer with my bug and it turned out pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7963" LastEditorUserId="7963" LastEditDate="2015-08-02T04:15:28.107" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T04:15:28.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6625" CreationDate="2015-08-02T05:46:01.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;my 2 homebrew fermenters were getting about 30 to 40 minutes of direct sunlight at about 10 am every morning for about 6 to 7 days and the beer tastes terrible. I am now covering up my fermenters a will see how the next batch tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12489" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T05:46:01.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3724" CreationDate="2015-08-02T23:27:42.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vinegar takes the paint right off most bottles i deal with (Rogue, Stone, Coronado, etc). Just a 30 minute soak in 50% vinegar and water solution, then rub down with the rough side of a sponge/scouring pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12491" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T23:27:42.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-03T02:12:48.670" Score="4" ViewCount="1673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my first keg and am hoping to get on without forking out for a fridge as well. I probably should've asked this before investing in the keg, but here we are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, is it possible to carbonate the keg to the correct volume, then pour into a growler, all at room temperature? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8442" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T11:56:37.270" Title="Kegging with no fridge" Tags="|beer|kegging|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15857" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-03T05:10:49.570" Score="0" ViewCount="926" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't seem to find any 12 oz clear glass beer bottles (without caps) online anywhere. Other ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12492" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T19:10:04.410" Title="Where to find clear glass beer bottles?" Tags="|bottling|kombucha|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13473" CreationDate="2015-08-03T11:14:06.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only tried this setup once, but I tried to keep my sparge water at 180F (82C). Then recirculating through that was sufficient to bring my mash temp up to the 168-170F (76C) range for mashout. It might be worth mentioning that my temp probe is near the bottom of my grain bed, so I actually turn off the pump at 168F since the top of the mash is probably closer to 170.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then turn off the sparge water heat and start letting it cool, but start fly sparging with the 180F (82C) water. I figure it is trickling in slow enough during a fly sparge that it will cool on the trip over to the mash tun and on making contact with the 170F mash. Since the usual goal is to leave an inch or 2 of water above the grain bed during a fly sparge, I figure even if the water in that top fraction of an inch is a couple degrees over 170F, it isn't in contact with the grains anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I usually don't even bother with a mash out. I just did it once because I had to to a step mash for a witbier, so had the recirculation pump and coil set up anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12442" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T11:14:06.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15805" CreationDate="2015-08-03T11:31:30.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of temperature probe, you could use 2 of them in parallel, one in the middle of the wort and one taped to the side of the vessel to get a rough &quot;average&quot; of the reading of the two probes. Use the same probe type, wire, and wire length to help eliminate any difference in resistance that would affect the reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mathematically it won't be a true average, but when we are talking a couple degrees of temperature difference, it would be close enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more about it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-9/thermocouples/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here, about 2/3 of the way down the page&lt;/a&gt;. (excerpt:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Another application for thermocouples is in the measurement of average temperature between several locations. The easiest way to do this is to connect several thermocouples in parallel with each other. The millivolt signal produced by each thermocouple will average out at the parallel junction point. The voltage differences between the junctions drop along the resistances of the thermocouple wires. Unfortunately, though, the accurate averaging of these Seebeck voltage potentials relies on each thermocouple’s wire resistances being equal. If the thermocouples are located at different places and their wires join in parallel at a single location, equal wire length will be unlikely. The thermocouple having the greatest wire length from point of measurement to parallel connection point will tend to have the greatest resistance, and will therefore have the least effect on the average voltage produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, keep in mind that commercial fermentation tanks regulate temperature from the outside jacket, and rely on the convection current of rising CO2 bubbles to &quot;mix&quot; and make the temperature more consistent. Given all the variables, I doubt every square inch of fluid in a commercial tank is exactly the same temperature, and I also doubt that it matters all that much in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12442" LastEditorUserId="12442" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T11:44:22.687" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T11:44:22.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15857" CreationDate="2015-08-03T12:26:05.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our local beer shop sells recycled bottles? Either that my local pub saves me bottles that normally get smashed and recycled so you could ask there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12468" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T12:26:05.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15862" CreationDate="2015-08-03T12:30:55.120" Score="1" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;i'm about to rack off my first batch of full-grain IPA. It's a small batch that has been fermenting about 14 days in a demijohn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tasted some briefly when racking and it tasted very strong which is not a bad thing but unexpected tbh. I thought maybe it's over fermented but after reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3259/is-it-possible-to-over-ferment&quot;&gt;Is it possible to over-ferment?&lt;/a&gt; post i am unsure that's the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now don't get me wrong it tastes fine but just very strong. Apparently i'm to add some sugar water and condition in in the bottle - Will this mellow the flavour? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advise would be gratefully received!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rik&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12468" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T12:19:58.990" Title="Racking flavour - too strong?" Tags="|fermentation|all-grain|first-time-brewer|taste|racking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15861" CreationDate="2015-08-03T14:39:30.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are going fine. In my experience, beer directly from fermenter, warm and uncarbonated, could taste to much different of the same beer in final drinking conditions. Every beer I've brewed taste better after tasting from fermenter. When it goes wrong I could identify this when tasting. If you don't think it's bad, probably it isn't. Don't add sugar with water. Just prime it carefully to achieve a good carbonation and you'll be ok. It will be a good IPA if you don't mess around it to much. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T14:39:30.663" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15872" CreationDate="2015-08-03T17:17:26.730" Score="0" ViewCount="6606" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have recently been looking into making my own vodka and/or gin. The laws around producing drinks like these in the UK don't see, very clear, so I was hoping someone here had more experience in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's illegal in the UK to produce spirits with a still, without the proper license. It also appears to be illegal to produce spirits in any other way, within the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The confusion comes around the use of the word &quot;spirits&quot;. A spirit is usually an alcoholic drink that has been distilled, but if I was to make a base using water, sugar (6-7Kg roughly) and turbo yeast, then add my flavouring, to produce a drink similar to vodka or gin, would these still be classes as spirits, even at say 20-23%?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Carl. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12339" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T05:11:26.720" Title="Vodka / Gin production without a still, in the UK" Tags="|vodka|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15864" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-03T18:11:26.287" Score="1" ViewCount="1152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 separate gallons of apple cider on they go, they were started about a week apart, now like the donut I am I have stopped the wrong one by adding 5ml sodium metabisulphite it has stopped it in its tracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is can I, and how do I, restart it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12495" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T13:03:15.057" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T17:17:14.700" Title="Accidentally stopped fermentation: how to restart?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15861" CreationDate="2015-08-04T12:49:41.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you elaborate on &quot;strong&quot;? As in, too much hop bitterness? Grainey? Sweet? Esters? Some other flavor? If it just tastes &quot;good, balanced flavors, but like its concentrated&quot; then you could potentially boil some distilled water to sterilize it and use it to dilute the beer, but it will also lower the ABV, IBU and color... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more batches you do, the more you will learn what to expect from tasting at different intervals, like pre and post boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also jot all this down in your brew log so you know what to adjust next time. If your very first all-grain batch in drinkable, you should pat yourself on the back and enjoy a cold one :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12442" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T12:49:41.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15856" CreationDate="2015-08-04T13:14:13.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;relation between temperature, pressure and volumes of CO₂&lt;/a&gt; are true at higher-than-fridge temperatures, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference is that with the higher pressure required for the carbonation at the higher temperature, you'll need longer beer serving lines to resist the extra pressure to get a reasonable pour without foaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say instead of 10psi for 2.2 volumes at ~40°F, you're carbonating at 20psi for 2.2 volumes at ~60°F. 3/16&quot; ID vinyl tubing resists about 3lb/ft, so you'll need 3.3 extra feet of beer line to resist the extra 10psi. See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.draughtquality.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Draught Quality Manual&lt;/a&gt;, especially the example on page 41 and the rest of the material in that section about draft balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T13:14:13.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-04T13:54:41.970" Score="2" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard on one of the old Jamil shows that pitching actively-fermenting starter is a good way to get noticeable but subtle yeast character in a beer.  You need to start with an adequate amount of yeast, but basically to 'get the yeast going' before pitching it.  He was referring specifically to saisons, where you want a good amount, but (IMO) still subtle ester and phenol production, and a complete fermentation.  He was saying it was better to do this as opposed to purposely underpitching or fermenting hot, both of which are risky to say the least.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We ended up trying this on two IPA's with Conan yeast (from which we wanted ester production) and the results were awesome.  78 and 82% attenuation with the esters we wanted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is does anyone know the science behind this method, assuming, as stated, equivalent pitch rates?  Why it creates SOME yeast 'character', but not too much?  The yeast are already in the growth phase, and I guess it would maybe minimize lag phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T19:13:55.980" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T19:13:55.980" Title="Krausening / Pitching Actively-Fermenting Wort" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|krausen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-04T14:21:02.820" Score="1" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my 5th homebrew this Saturday, an all-grain American stout.  By Sunday I had very minimal bubbling.  Monday there was a bit more but far less than my previous batches.  Today there are none.  I've never had a batch bubble this little.  Typically in 24-48 hours the bubbling is pretty intense.  Not so with this batch.  I rehydrated dry yeast (Nottingham) and pitched at the manufacturers recommended temp.  Should I re-pitch more yeast?  Is my brew bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12499" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T20:49:11.147" Title="Think my fermentation is stuck" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15869" CreationDate="2015-08-04T15:54:07.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bubbles are an inaccurate way to gauge fermentation.  Can you see if the beer is fermenting?  Have you taken a gravity reading?  It's also possible that the temp was on the high side, fermentation finished quickly and you missed it.  Look for physical signs.  And in homebrewing you can almost never go wrong by just waiting longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T15:54:07.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15868" CreationDate="2015-08-04T16:58:22.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I gotta disagree with JZ.  I've used krausening for &quot;fixing&quot; lagers that had diacetyl issues.  It works great for that, but I got no additional &quot;yeast character&quot; in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T16:58:22.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15863" CreationDate="2015-08-04T18:28:32.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, regarding this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was to make a base using water, sugar (6-7Kg roughly) and turbo yeast, then add my flavouring, to produce a drink similar to vodka or gin, &lt;strong&gt;would these still be classes [&lt;em&gt;sic&lt;/em&gt;] as spirits, even at say 20-23%?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;That is more of a legal question and is really outside of the scope of this site.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, whether you can technically do it is a different question altogether (ie, &lt;strong&gt;is it technically possibly to make a 20% - 23% beverage without distilling?&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Technically yes, but you really need to know what you're doing.&lt;/strong&gt; See below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your goal is just &quot;20%-23% alcoholic beverage,&quot; you can accomplish that without any form of distillation by using a rigorous nutrient and step-feeding schedule along with an alcohol-tolerant yeast with low nutrient requirements, like Lalvin EC-1118 or K1-V1116. It's definitely not easy, but it is technically possible. It would also likely require quite a bit of aging to be palatable, as you would be pushing yeast well past its tolerance, leading to lots of fusel alcohols and other off-flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;depending 100% on the legality of this in your region&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, you could also look into &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fractional_freezing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;fractional freezing&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (colloquially called &quot;freeze distillation,&quot; even though you're not actually distilling anything)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fractional_freezing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fractional freezing is a process used in process engineering and chemistry to separate substances with different melting points. It can be done by partial melting of a solid, for example in zone refining of silicon or metals, or by partial crystallization of a liquid, as in freeze distillation, also called normal freezing or progressive freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the process that was originally used in creating &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Applejack_(beverage)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;applejack&lt;/a&gt;, and is used to some extent in creating &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ice_beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ice beers&lt;/a&gt; such as an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bock#Eisbock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eisbock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful though. &lt;strong&gt;Whereas distillation leaves impurities behind, fractional freezing concentrates them:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The danger of freeze distillation of alcoholic beverages, is that unlike heat distillation, where the methanol and other impurities can be separated from the finished product, &lt;strong&gt;freeze distillation does not remove them&lt;/strong&gt;. Thus &lt;strong&gt;the ratio of impurities may be increased&lt;/strong&gt; compared to the total volume of the beverage. This concentration may cause side effects to the drinker, &lt;strong&gt;leading to intense hangovers and a condition known as &quot;apple palsy&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; (although this term has also simply been used to refer to intoxication, especially from applejack.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be minimized or avoided if you have a clean fermentation free of fusels, have aged the fusels out of your beverage, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, do not attempt the fractional freezing of a homebrewed alcoholic beverage without solid fermentation management techniques. Or if it's illegal in your country, I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T18:28:32.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15845" CreationDate="2015-08-05T00:12:40.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fill each empty with a 20/80 bleach/water solution and allow to soak for a few hours (usually overnight). Come bottling day, I rinse each bottle with cold water before sanitising. Works like a charm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T00:12:40.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15869" CreationDate="2015-08-05T06:22:37.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be a leak somewhere that allows the CO2 to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a pale and a speciality that is fermenting next to each other; the speciality sounds like a machine gun and the pale has barely made a bubble. I had the same thoughts as you, but I simply opened the fermenter and saw a nice krausen on the beer, so I am happy, but now I know that I have a fermenter that I have to check for leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave the beer for at least a week and then take a gravity reading. If it has not dropped at least 50% then you have a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T20:49:11.147" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T20:49:11.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15857" CreationDate="2015-08-05T06:32:38.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what country you are in, but if you are in South Africa (or willing to pay shipping) here are some links:&#xA;Consol Glass: &lt;a href=&quot;http://products.consol.co.za/products/alcoholic-beverages&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://products.consol.co.za/products/alcoholic-beverages&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Nampak: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nampak.com/Downloads/beer.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nampak.com/Downloads/beer.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T06:32:38.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15951" CreationDate="2015-08-05T18:57:12.417" Score="2" ViewCount="2241" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ahoy! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been making ciders for last year (with more experience on beers and meads). Two things happened. I tried a french cider couple a month ago and I liked it to the point, that I won't mind making it myself. Also, 5 weeks ago I used French Saison Yeast (Wyeast 3711) on my common cider and on my session mead (both SG=1.050, FG=1.002). The result was fantastic (awesome aroma, taste and even appearance is somewhat close to the standard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I've got some calcium chrolide for keeving in home environment, in couple of weeks I'll be getting a fresh pressed (early harvest) sweet cider from one of the local orchards. My question is, are there any restrictions on yeasts in French Ciders? All the recipes (not that many) suggest using like champaign yeasts. Would it be too odd and out of style if I use Saison Yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just trying to experiment a bit :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T09:43:44.553" Title="Making a French Cider" Tags="|cider|saison|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15880" CreationDate="2015-08-06T02:11:48.347" Score="1" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to reproduce an incredible fruity aroma and flavour from a recipe I made a year ago. Looking at the recipe I am guessing it may be from the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;3lb 2row&#xA;1lb Rye&#xA;.13oz nugget @ 60 min&#xA;.1oz Columbus @ 60min&#xA;.1oz Northern brewer at 30min&#xA;.3oz Northern Brewer @ flame out&#xA;WLP002 yeast straight from the vial.&#xA;Batch size: 2 gallons.&#xA;&#xA;Assuming 2 gallon batch size...&#xA;(Calculated and not measured!)&#xA;OG: 1.055&#xA;FG: 1.014&#xA;ABV: 5.39%&#xA;IBU: 40.39&#xA;SRM: 4.11&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately this is all the info I have written down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember sampling the beer at day five which had an incredible fruity aroma and taste. There was a ton of yeast in suspension, so much that the beer was completely cloudy. It was very orange and the taste was almost like ... orange juice. I swear I thought maybe someone went to my fermenter and poured a cup of tropicana in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to reproduce this &quot;fruitiness&quot; to no avail. I made this recipe at the time using an airlock and 18C fermentation temp. My latest two attempts are biased in the sense that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have been fermented using 3 and 4th generation WLP002 very healthy  yeast cakes. I am definitely over pitching.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have been fermented purely under pressure (20psi)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result has been that the beer is very clean and ester free. There was virtually no difference in flavour using a temperature of 20C vs 24C (ambient) and certainly no fruitiness. I sampled these beers at around the same time at 5-7 days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My most recent experiment involves a similar recipe but fermented under pressure after the first 9 hours, an OG of 1.090, and 24C (ambient) (gas was coming out of the blow off tube 20 minutes after pitching! The keg is quite warm to the touch so its probably more like 27C). I'm changing a little too many variables here, the pressure, the OG, and temp, but these are all to push the esters to the limit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody ever gotten huge amounts of fruitiness from WLP002? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T12:14:14.960" Title="Maximizing fruitiness from WLP002" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|flavor|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5118" CreationDate="2015-08-06T03:56:16.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have added it to numerous pale ales. One of my recipes uses cascade and northern brewers hops and it works great. You want to shoot for a greater body too so if you are running all grain do about 156 for the mash temp. I throw 2 ozs of the dried cooking herb type to the boil about 5 mins before flameoff and it works great. Cascade and northern brewer (as long as it not too high AA) will complement very well with that amount of rosemary. If you want to kick it up a bit I would add an extra oz. As for the grain bill just follow any american pale ale bill, perhaps go heavier on the base malts to bring out those herbal tones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12504" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T17:15:39.563" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T17:15:39.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15856" CreationDate="2015-08-06T11:56:37.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried doing exactly what you describe, without using counter-pressure to fill the growlers. While you can carbonate the beer just fine, at room temperature you'll get so much foaming during transfer (no matter how long your lines are) that it'll probably end up as flat as it was before carbonation by the time you're drinking it. You could try it with counter-pressure, but a new CP filler can be $50+ (you can make quite workable ones yourself for a lot less I'm sure), not ideal when you're trying &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to spend money. Also, at room temperature the equilibrium pressure for carbonated beer is high enough (25+ PSI easily) that it may pose a problem for some growlers, which might not withstand this high a pressure while CP filling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really tied to the idea, you should at least try to chill the keg as much as possible right before filling growlers, to help maximize the solubility of the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, which should help to decrease loss as the beer experiences turbulence and drop in pressure (I used to leave my keg outside overnight). Also, try to push from the keg using very little pressure (or even better, just by using gravity), to minimize turbulence as the beer exits the keg. Again, releasing pressure at room temperature will cause the beer to foam quite a bit, even in the keg, but this will be mitigated by cooling it as much as you can. You could try to dispense through a very long and narrow line (as jsled suggests), or through a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ucsdbrewingprogram.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Karl_pigtail.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pigtail&lt;/a&gt;, which would allow you to keep more pressure on the keg, but I can say from my own experience that if you do this without chilling you'll still have a lot of foaming going into growlers, since any way you cut it you're still going from high to low pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micromatic.com/beer-questions/party-cooler-coil-cold-plate-aid-107.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;devices&lt;/a&gt; that exist for serving room temperature, pressurized beer by passing it through a heat exchanger, or cold-plate, that is kept in a bath of ice-water. Obviously they're fairly expensive, but you might be able to build one yourself by making a coil of tubing, submerging it in ice water and passing the beer through it on the way to the growler, to flash-cool it. Could be worthwhile especially if you were to bang out a whole keg's worth of growlers at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, good luck with this, hope you can figure something out. The unfortunate thing is that you'll probably end up spending money to make this work and at a certain point it might be just as easy to shell out for the fridge, which will probably make more sense in the long run. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T11:56:37.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15877" CreationDate="2015-08-06T12:14:14.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are doing two things (over-pitching and fermenting under pressure) that will drastically reduce the amount of ester production, which is primarily responsible for the fruitiness of beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over-pitching reduces the extent of yeast growth, which is directly related to ester production. Basically the yeast can reproduce fewer times over, having started at a higher concentration, before they become limited by the amount of nutrients available. Less yeast growth almost always means less fruitiness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermenting under pressure chiefly affects ester production by increasing dissolved CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; levels in the fermenting beer, as the pressure itself has very little effect on the yeast's physiology. Dissolved CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is inversely related to ester production, so fermenting under &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; pressure would be the way to go for maximizing fruitiness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;I'm changing a little too many variables here, the pressure, the OG, and temp, but these are all to push the esters to the limit. &quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher OG and temperature should indeed help to push the fruitiness, but are probably being undone by over-pitching and pressure. If you're seeking the same flavors you got before, it's probably best to follow that procedure as closely as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T12:14:14.960" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-06T18:43:36.830" Score="2" ViewCount="5671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a novice fermenter who loves ginger beer, so I thought I'd try to make my own. I ordered some ginger beer plant from these guys and followed their guide: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yemoos.com/gingerbeerguide.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.yemoos.com/gingerbeerguide.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my first batch I added 1/2 cup white sugar, GBP, and the juice of 4&quot; of ginger root to a quart of water. I let it sit covered with cloth for 4 days, then I strained the liquid into two swingtop bottles and added 1 tsp. of white sugar to each bottle. I put the bottles in the fridge and &quot;burped&quot; them every day. After 3 days I tried the ginger beer, but it was too flat and sweet. The problem seemed obvious to me: I didn't allow enough time, and the fridge was too cold, for good fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second batch I added 1/4 cup white sugar, 1/4 cup light brown sugar, the GBP I separated from the 1st batch, and ginger juice to a quart of water. This time I let it sit for 7 days. I strained the liquid into 2 bottles again, but did not add extra sugar (I think I must have been scared of too much sweetness at the end). I did not put the bottles in the fridge but let them sit for 7 more days, opening them daily to release pressure (of which there didn't seem to be any).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I poured one of the bottles into a glass and a thick sludge came out. I tried a sip, and it did seem to have an alcohol bite to it, but this is definitely not what I had in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did I make? Is it salvageable in any way? But most importantly, how do I avoid this in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12507" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T16:12:52.460" Title="My ginger beer is a thick sludge. Where might I have gone wrong?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15846" CreationDate="2015-08-06T21:53:01.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A suggestion I got from a home brewer when I was concerned about heat (not as high as yours) was to drape an old t shirt around my carboy and keep the bottom of the shirt in a bucket of water. The capillary action wets the shirt and evaporation will cool things down. Not an accurate way to control temperature but it should be somewhat cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12067" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T21:53:01.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15896" CreationDate="2015-08-06T23:38:40.473" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I want to learn to brew beer. I constantly try new beer, and try to dissect all the flavors involved. The next logical step in my love of beer seems to be trying my hand at brewing. I should specify that while not a chemist, biologist, food scientist, or anything else that would tell me about the science of beer I am a &quot;sciencey&quot; type of person. I like to know all the happenings of what I am doing and I like to perform quasi-controlled experiments when cooking. So what I'd like to do is a) read up on brewing first as much as needed and then b) experiment as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen lots of recipes for specific kinds of beers but I want something more than that. I want all the background and to have an idea of how much choices during the brew process will effect end result. So, what should I be reading before I start brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12508" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T11:12:24.157" Title="Where do I start reading?" Tags="|beer|first-time-brewer|taste|books|science|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15881" CreationDate="2015-08-06T23:47:34.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you made was a yeast cake. Even though you strained it there is still the little guys floating around in it.  When you put it in the fridge it's called cold crashing and will make most of the trub and yeast floating around drop out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it salvageable.... well it depends on how much sludge. Personally if it's that much I would dump it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recipe is as follows. I get ginger root and cut it up in to small thin sticks  after it's skinned. Then I simmer for 15-20 min like you're making tea. Do not boil it.  You'll boil off some of the oils if you do.   I then strain the liquid  and put that in to the fermentor (about 1 cup per gallon) with sugar water and cyan pepper(the cyan pepper makes it hold that bite and burn for months.) Mix and aerate I use US 05 yeast. It takes about 6 days.  I then cold crash for 3 days. Rack it in to a bottling bucket and mix in 1/4 cup of brown sugar water  per 2 gallons  so the bottles carb up. Let sit in a warm place (70)  for 3-6 days and then cool and serve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of sugar added to the water I can't remember off the top of my head. But there is a ratio just google it you should be able to figure it out based off of what your hydrometer says. This is for a ginger ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a ginger beer it would require an all grain process or an extract process, and from what I'm gathering you don't have that equipment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12509" LastEditorDisplayName="user8292" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T16:12:52.460" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T16:12:52.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15883" CreationDate="2015-08-06T23:56:53.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;there are many good books out there. but it comes down to your intelligence level. my buddy is an idiot. and couldn't understand  &quot;The Joy of home brewing&quot; by charlie papazian. so i picked up the nearest thing to a coloring book for him. home brewing for dummies.  another great set of books is &quot;yeast&quot;, &quot;malt&quot;, &quot;hops&quot;, &quot;water&quot;   but you biggest resource  is going to be www.homebrewtalk.com  everone over there is amazing! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12509" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T23:56:53.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9906" CreationDate="2015-08-07T00:35:03.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work in a large, reputable home brew store. My experience with this yeast is the same as other yeasts. The lag time is completely normal in bigger beers. Recently, I brewed a Russian imperial with an OG of 1.100 and pitched 2 packs of this yeast. It took nearly 48 hours to see any activity. If you aerate appropriately, and your smack pack swells, you'll notice a slightly longer lag time than say, a Safale US-05 or a WYeast 1056. In most beers with an OG under 1.070, this yeast will kick off in about 18-24 hours. Anything over that, and you'll need to give it time to start up. Once it is off to the races, expect a moderately aggressive fermentation...might be a good idea to set up a blow-off in primary fermenters with less head space. As long as the pack swells and as long as you aerate, you'll be totally fine. As with any bigger beer, the bigger the beer...the longer the overall process. This beer will finish out at roughly 11%ABV. I brewed it in early August and probably won't start drinking it until mid December at the earliest. Patience is the key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12511" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T17:13:05.843" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T17:13:05.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15845" CreationDate="2015-08-07T00:54:19.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;one should note that hcl on metal is bad it will eat right through it. so make sure you do it some place that is well ventilated. use gloves( latex), goggles you don't want it in your eyes. and a respirator.  if you get it on your cloths  you will end up with a hole in them.    if your wondering where to get HCl . go to your local pool store and get maturic acid.    they sell 28% and 31% acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12509" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T00:54:19.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14687" CreationDate="2015-08-07T00:58:01.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i pieced my home 20 gallon system together i used angle iron from home depot  and used high temp paint on it.  march pumps and rims system that i built from scratch. its much more fulfilling to do it your self. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12509" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T00:58:01.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15903" CreationDate="2015-08-07T02:04:39.347" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I drink a lot of beer (go figure) and I try to characterize it each time. How much carbonation there is, what color it is, mouth feel, what specific flavors are involved, how hoppy it is, how malty it is, and many other things. Many of these things correspond to things that can be measured numerically or are at least partially determined by commonly measured things (like how mouth feel and specific gravity are related but not the same)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I don't brew beer but am looking to get into it. I plan on measuring all these values as I brew. However that doesn't give me much of feel for the numbers until I have a good few brews, involving many variations of these values, under my belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be nice is if I could get some reference that could explain these properties for various beers. For instance IBUs of different beers are mentioned quite a bit and now I have a vague feel for how hoppy a beer will be based on the IBU rating (though, IBUs seem a bit inconsistent to me). I don't however have a feel for measurements of things like specific gravity, color, clarity, foaminess, and other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12508" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T20:42:44.823" Title="How to get a feel for the numbers involved in brewing" Tags="|first-time-brewer|specific-gravity|color|attenuation|ibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15883" CreationDate="2015-08-07T14:10:56.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;John Palmer's book &quot;How to Brew&quot; is an excellent place to start and earlier versions are on line for free. It covers all the bases of brewing with quite a bit of technical information. I use this book as a reference tool all the time. If you want to get into the nuts and bolts of the individual components of brewing try the Brewing Element Series from Brewers Publications. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easternshoresbrewing.com/yeast-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Yeast, The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation&quot;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easternshoresbrewing.com/hops-the-practical-guide-to-aroma-bitterness-and-the-culture-of-hops/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Water, A comprehensive Guide for Brewers&quot;&lt;/a&gt; Should satisfy your &quot;sciencey&quot; side. To expand your knowledge on the other two components of brewing, malt and hops, get &quot;Malt, A Practical Guide from Field to Brewhouse&quot;and &quot;Hops, The Practical Guide to Aroma, Bitterness and the Culture of Hops&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12157" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T14:10:56.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-07T17:48:03.980" Score="3" ViewCount="1949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have almost finished the first fermentation of my 2nd cider kit, I took a SG reading yesterday and it comes in around 7% (1.064 &gt; 10.11). While I have no problem with it being strong, this and the fact I made the full 40 pints, has caused the flavour (forest fruits) to be extremely weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking for advice on adding some form of fruit flavouring to my drink, wether it be fruit juices or a fruit drink like Robinsons. I did have a look at one Robinsons drink though and it contained Sodium Metabisulphite, which I imagine would cause problems for me later when I plan to bottle and prime with sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind waiting before bottling after I've added the fruit drink, since I planned to transfer from primary, into a secondary and add lactose to sweeten, I just want a strong, fizzy and fruity cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on flavouring would be great. I'd like to avoid buying 100% fruit concentrate since it's expensive, so cheaper yet still effective ways would be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Carl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12339" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T16:15:54.330" Title="Adding flavouring to fermented cider" Tags="|cider|flavor|secondary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15897" CreationDate="2015-08-07T21:21:50.663" Score="0" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new at brewing, and i am having some problems trying to keep my beer carbonated. I am using twist off 12oz bottles with regular crown caps. can somebody please tell me if there is a certain specific kind of cap for twist off bottles or if there is a certain type of bottle capper for the twist off bottle? thanks, and your help will be greatly appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12513" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T02:19:26.153" Title="My bottle is leaking CO2 Idk if it is the bottle or the cap" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5118" CreationDate="2015-08-07T21:27:39.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used it (1 tablespoon dried) at 10 minutes til flameout, was great. Fresh would probably be better. (I also added catnip with the rosemary, and clove during fermentation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8180" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T21:27:39.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15841" CreationDate="2015-08-08T01:50:53.260" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mash Temperature is the criticial component when targeting a final gravity. When I'm making a stout I shoot for a higher mash temperature in the 153/154 range. while if i want to dry out a pale ale 149-151 degrees F in increase B~Amylase activity and allow a higher finishing gravity. A couple of other things that could be affecting your final gravity is your pitch rate and/or lack of wort oxygenation pre-fermentation. If you don't oxygenate your wort well enough before pitching, your yeast will set up weak cell walls and reproduce weak hungry offspring that will autolyze early. try using a yeast nutrient like servomyces and a food grade oxygen through a sanitary oxygenation stone. it's always better to over pitch than to underpitch. if your fermentation temperature is too far from where it should be your gravity will suffer. And a less likely cause is a clogged blow off hose. Fermentation will stall and yeast will die if the Co2 levels are too high in your FV. Yeast does not survive well in it's own byproduct. hope that helps.&#xA;-Ryan Power&#xA;Head Brewer&#xA;Geaghan Brother's Brewing Company&#xA;Bangor &amp;amp; Brewer, MAINE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12514" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T01:50:53.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15883" CreationDate="2015-08-08T01:59:48.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend reading just enough to learn to brew your first few batches instead of trying to take in all the information at once. And as questions come up while brewing, write them down and devote a great deal of time to researching and answering those questions. As you progress into brewing the application of that knowledge will lead to more questions as you build on the basics. There is always more to learn. But if you feel you need to use the book to brew and go &quot;step by step,&quot; keep reading, you aren't ready to make beer yet.  Designing Great Beers by Ray Daniels, Palmer's How to Brew is decent, but experience and learning from your mistakes and researching the things you aren't certain you understand as you go along is the best way i find. I&quot;m always researching new concepts or looking up something someone asked me and i wasn't sure of and I've been a professional brewer for five years. Keep reading, start brewing, and don't give up. Joining a local homebrew club will be incredibly beneficial as well as long as it contains at least a few skilled brewers willing to share their knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12514" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T01:59:48.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15893" CreationDate="2015-08-08T02:19:26.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is the twist-off bottles, not the caps or the capper.  You need to use pop-top bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T02:19:26.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15863" CreationDate="2015-08-09T05:11:26.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen kits sold online for whiskey and vodka like &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Prohibition_1_Gallon_Whisky.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Prohibition_1_Gallon_Whisky.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here is a youtube video of someone making one &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ET4BxmtYq_M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ET4BxmtYq_M&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T05:11:26.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15869" CreationDate="2015-08-09T12:01:46.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers here are spot on. I have one thing to add. Danstar Nottingham can be a freaky fast fermenter. A two day ferment is not out of the question for this strain. It might just be done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always have Nottingham on hand in case some other strain gets stuck. That stuff is one beast of a yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T12:01:46.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15902" CreationDate="2015-08-09T12:08:25.310" Score="8" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I buy full sacks of grain, and over the past 10 years it's always been hit and miss getting that string that ties the bag close to unwind. If you get it just right the string unwinds with a gentle pull. If you get it wrong its a big PITA having to cut through each knot. Any pictures or videos on how to do this repeatedly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T15:05:26.923" Title="How To Successfully Untie a full bag of grain." Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15293" CreationDate="2015-08-09T16:42:34.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if you're doing a secondary fermentation, but that always helps to clarify whatever your brewing, be it cider, wine, or beer. It will be much easier and produce a better result than attempting to run through filters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12516" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T16:42:34.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15900" CreationDate="2015-08-09T20:24:16.030" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience it &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; differ between maltsters, but Weyermann offers both &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weyermann.de/downloads/pdf/Weyermann_Bag_Opening_Instructions_english_March_2012.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://vimeo.com/32957183&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; instructions on opening their bags (the video is pretty awesome), which are fairly applicable to other brands of malt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;~edit~&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2k-gCoQ7PVw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;~another edit~&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own personal method for this, which I find works pretty much 100% of the time, with any bag:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, be facing the correct side of the bag. This one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDfgC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Correct!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gRxGt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Not this one&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the tail away from the bag a bit to expose the stitching; take those first two blue stitches on the far left of the bag, and cut them, between the bag and the rest of the 'tail' (see red mark below). Note that strings may be a different color, but will be in the same place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d46zb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cut it&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resulting tail should pull right off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjtQM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tail&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T15:05:26.923" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T15:05:26.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15889" CreationDate="2015-08-09T20:42:44.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on my comment above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most homebrewers, unless you're willing to drop some serious money on lab equipment, your measurements will be mostly limited to weights, volumes and specific gravity (and pressure, if kegging). Most of the numbers you'll be dealing with outside these things will involve calculations based on a best-fit equations for &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; brewers' setups and not for yours in particular. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example: you may calculate bitterness for a hop addition based on a 31% utilization, but you have no way of knowing your particular brewing process gives you this utilization number. The wort composition, pH, vigor of boil, fermentation, &amp;amp;c., can all affect hop utilization, and these are different for every system (they may even differ for you between batches). Typically commercial breweries (and those homebrewers inclined to pay for it) will send samples brewed using standard procedures to a lab to resolve the true amount of bitterness compounds in the finished beer and thus the proper utilization number, and use this result to calculate future additions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not at all to say that you can't gain meaningful insight by closely tracking your process and using these best-fit calculations. It's just that you'll be using your senses of taste, smell and sight to evaluate how close a fit they are to what you end up with. In this sense you are very much &lt;em&gt;getting a feel&lt;/em&gt; for the numbers because it's something that you have to practice quite a bit, since you are using comparisons between calculations and sensory evaluation &lt;em&gt;instead&lt;/em&gt; of measuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, my favorite reference for calculations remains &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbaa.com/store/Pages/25513.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this book&lt;/a&gt;, though it's not really appropriate for the first-time homebrewer. Something to keep in mind, though, if you have a very analytical perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T20:42:44.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15868" CreationDate="2015-08-10T00:46:38.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, it sounds like you're talking about step-propagation, not kräusening (which is adding actively-fermenting beer to end-fermented beer to induce a &lt;em&gt;true&lt;/em&gt; secondary fermentation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the issue here a bit vague, because you don't mention whether you're comparing pitching the same number of cells in both cases (one actively fermenting, and the other straight from storage), or whether you are comparing pitching the same number of cells (say, a vial) directly into your batch vs. pitching the same vial into a starter first &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; pitching that starter into your batch. In the latter case, you would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have the same pitching rate since the yeast will have budded several times over before introduction to the main batch of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second case being true, the subtle (read: lower) ester character is easily explained by a higher pitching rate. I would guess this is probably the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the first case is true, however, then it's most likely explained by access to a larger pool of key nutrients, especially oxygen (increasing the level of which will decrease your ester production). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, regarding the myth you mention, of course if it doesn't bother you, by all means go for it. But in starters that are highly aerated or oxygenated, it's almost definitely true that more oxygen is being added than the yeast can consume directly, and any excess will almost definitely go on to oxidize components of the wort. The key distinction here is between &lt;em&gt;dissolved oxygen&lt;/em&gt; (which yeast can easily scavenge) and oxygen that has already &lt;em&gt;oxidized&lt;/em&gt; other molecules (which reactions yeast has little, if any, ability to reverse). It's these oxidized wort components that go on to create off flavors. So I would argue that it's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a myth, especially when starters can easily exceed 10% of your total batch size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T00:46:38.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15864" CreationDate="2015-08-10T13:50:29.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So there are a couple of possibilities here, but &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt;, you need to take a gravity reading. If your gravity is either 1.000 or less or your ABV is at/outside of your yeast's tolerance, then it's done, not stalled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if your gravity does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; indicate that your fermentation is complete, then the amount of sulfites you added is incredibly important. If you added 5 ml of sulfite &lt;em&gt;powder&lt;/em&gt; (~1 tsp), then that was &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; too much sodium/potassium metabisulfite, and could potentially kill your yeast. Keep in mind that one Campden tablet is somewhere between 1/16 and  1/8 tsp of sulfite, so dropping 1 tsp into 1 gallon would be like using a steamroller to iron clothes. If you just dissolved 1 tablet's worth into 5 ml of water, though, then that would have been fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, so if we assume that the cider is still grossly over-sulfited (you should detect a slightly sulfury smell and flavor), then before you try pitching additional yeast, you need to get that sulfite out of that cider. There are a couple of ways I know of to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Splash racking&lt;/strong&gt; - The gasses released by sulfites dissipate readily when shaken around. Splash racking one or two times can help to force these out. Essentially, just rack from the top instead of the bottom and let your cider run down the inside of your fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Copper&lt;/strong&gt; - For chemistry-related reasons that I'm not in any way qualified to explain, dropping copper (please don't use pennies, they're gross) into a solution full of sulfites for a week or two will cause some reactions with the sulfur compounds that effectively pulls them out of the solution. I've also heard of people racking through a 100% copper scrubbing pad, effectively combining splash racking with copper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After splash racking and/or racking off the copper, let the cider sit for 24 hours under an airlock. After that, you should be safe to pitch more yeast. Regardless of the yeast you originally used, I recommend pitching Lalvin EC-1118, as it is frequently used to restart stalled fermentations. Lalvin K1-V1116 and Uvaferm 43 can also be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastEditorUserId="8203" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T16:13:38.260" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T16:13:38.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-10T19:58:31.153" Score="1" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'quick carb' (high PSI, shake keg/CO2 stone) vs. 'low and slow' carbonation (&quot;set it and forget it&quot;) debate seems to be hinged on the issue of CO2 hydration/hydrolysis (not sure which, will correct when someone tells me).  Beer that is carbed slowly will have hydrolyzed CO2, while beer that is 'quick' carbed will have unhydrolyzed CO2.  The parallel to this would be soda that is served from a fountain (carbed h2o mixed with syrup) vs. a soda in can/bottle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it take a full 2 weeks (or some other duration) for CO2 to hydrate/hydrolyze, or could a brewer give the carbonation a head start (by shaking keg at higher PSI), then wait, say one week for the dissolved CO2 to round out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T16:01:58.297" Title="Time for Hydrolysis/Hydration of CO2" Tags="|carbonation|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-11T02:11:02.067" Score="1" ViewCount="3057" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I need advice how to salvage my beer. I intended to make 5 gallon batch of IPA. I had ingredients for two batches of beer on hand and I accidentally added 3 extra pounds of dry malt extract to my wort. I added the following malts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lb Extra Dry Dark Malt Extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 lbs Plain Amber dry Malt Extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 lbs Light dry Malt Extract (Added by mistake)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White Labs American ale yeast blend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recipe said to let it ferment for 2 weeks, rack, then let it ferment another 2 weeks. I don't have a hydrometer (I'm a Peace Corps volunteer and I had the ingredients shipped because brewing supplies aren't available in my post country). It has almost been a month now and there are still bubbles clearly rising to the surface of the carboy. What should I do to salvage the beer? My thoughts include giving it more time and diluting the beer with a gallon of water during priming. Advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastEditorUserId="12525" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T01:32:33.563" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T00:26:47.633" Title="I used too much malt. What should I do? Suggestions how to salvage?" Tags="|beer|extract|malt|ipa|help|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15883" CreationDate="2015-08-11T05:34:05.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, How to Brew by John Palmer is a great book that teaches you the basics, but also allows you to dig into some of the details &amp;amp; more technical aspects of brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But don't just read. Listen to The Jamil Show, Brew Strong, Basic Brewing Radio podcasts. They provide a wealth of information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T05:34:05.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15907" CreationDate="2015-08-11T13:21:54.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you don't have a hydrometer, it will be hard to tell what's really going on. But likely, what happened is that your fermentation got &quot;stuck&quot;. In other words, let's assume the recipe's OG was 1.060. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter3-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Palmer&quot;&gt;John Palmer&lt;/a&gt; estimates that each pound of DME yields 40 points of extract per gallon of water, or about 8 points per 5 gallons. Assuming you did a 5 gallon batch, that means you added 24 extra points. In other words, our hypothetical 1.060 beer is now 1.084.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This really isn't a huge deal, but as you likely used a typical &quot;light&quot; beer yeast as opposed to a more robust &quot;heavy&quot; beer yeast, your fermentation likely stalled between 1.020-1.030. This means your beer will be very sweet and &quot;thick&quot; due to all the residual sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your options are, as you have mentioned, to dilute the final beer in order to bring down the sugar content per volume. This will also dilute the alcohol content (which may not be a bad thing). Alternatively, you could just drink the beer as-is, maybe blend it with a lighter beer when you serve it (I've done this before, it was actually rather interesting). Finally, you could try purchasing some champagne yeast to finish out the fermentation as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of these options (except the &quot;do nothing&quot; option) will impact the final flavor of the beer. For better or worse is purely a subjective matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To close, it is extremely unlikely that you have &quot;ruined&quot; your beer. The fact that you have any bubbling at all indicates that fermentation did probably occur, meaning alcohol was produced, meaning that most bacteria are likely dead. My recommendation is to try it, see how you like it, then decide what to do from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2215" LastEditorUserId="2215" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T17:55:59.063" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T17:55:59.063" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15917" CreationDate="2015-08-11T13:29:26.957" Score="1" ViewCount="1221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keg my beer and use force-carbonation to carbonate it. Does anyone know if there are any negative consequences to over-carbonating the beer, other than excessive foaming? Are there any long-term affects on the taste, texture, aroma, etc. if one were to over-carb a beer and then allow it to come down to normal carbonation over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2215" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:17:54.437" Title="Effects of Over Carbonation" Tags="|carbonation|keg|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13295" CreationDate="2015-08-11T13:48:00.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My biggest concern would be botulism. If I'm not mistaken, unboiled wort is a very fertile breeding ground for that stuff. Even if &quot;crash cooled in a freezer&quot; I'd worry that too much of that bad stuff would stick around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2215" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T13:48:00.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-11T13:52:21.377" Score="1" ViewCount="703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use pin lock kegs, and until now all of them have been Firestone/Spartanburg. I recently received a Cornelius brand three-gallon pin lock keg. The post threads on this keg are different from all the others, and so are the poppets. The ones that are installed look like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=376_1_3_14&amp;amp;products_id=15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I have is that if I only place a single o-ring on each dip tube, the posts leak from underneath. The posts just screw right on with no resistance, and it doesn't create a seal with the dip tube o-ring. I have to have two o-rings on each dip tube to create the seal. (I noticed there were two o-rings when I disassembled it to clean it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? It really seems like the poppet is just too short. I've found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=376_1_3_14&amp;amp;products_id=774&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; poppet, which is 1/8&quot; inch taller than the ones that it came with. It says it is for a Cornelius Type 'R', but I don't know if that's what I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T07:09:46.930" Title="Pin lock dip tube requires multiple o-rings?" Tags="|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15907" CreationDate="2015-08-11T13:56:02.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention it in your question, but I'm assuming that you've made a 5 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put those ingredients into Beer Smith, it shows a starting gravity of 1.062, which is perfectly reasonable for an IPA. Let the beer finish fermenting.  It will probably take a week or two longer than a lower gravity beer, so be patient. In the end you'll have a beer with slightly higher alcohol content, and slightly more body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T13:56:02.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15916" CreationDate="2015-08-11T20:29:42.620" Score="0" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a batch of beer about 3 weeks ago, and I was told to test the gravity prior to bottling to make sure it is ready. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, will I do any harm by opening the fermentation bucket in order to collect a sample to test with. I do understand the principals around proper sanitisation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm more concerned with introducing oxygen into the fermentation bucket if its not ready yet and I have to wait some more. Is that even something to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12284" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T20:55:54.017" Title="Testing specific gravity before bottling" Tags="|specific-gravity|bottle|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15915" CreationDate="2015-08-11T20:55:54.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't be introducing that much oxygen by opening the fermentation bucket to simply take a gravity sample, unless you go stirring it up or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T20:55:54.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15911" CreationDate="2015-08-11T21:38:14.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The release of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; can take certain volatile aroma compounds with it. Sometimes this is a good thing (it can strip sulfur notes out of beers) but can also take hop aroma compounds, less than ideal if it's dry-hopped or heavy on late-addition hops. In this case you might notice a slight loss of hop aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any foaming caused by degassing will also affect the foam of your finished beer, too, since the foam-positive substances (mostly proteins and bitterness compounds) which create foam during degassing won't redissolve and therefore won't be there to help create foam later on. This isn't directly related to over-carbonation, but is still a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to degas as gently as possible, and try not to overshoot. As you say, do it over time. Other than that, there's not much detriment to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T21:38:14.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15925" CreationDate="2015-08-11T23:20:38.740" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing 2 gal batches of beer from extracts like Mr Beer. Their LME packets are only 8.8 oz. Can I take a 3.3 lb. can, dilute it with a sufficient amount of water and divide it up into 6 containers to use at a later time? How long can it keep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12529" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T04:49:31.750" Title="Breaking down liquid malt extract" Tags="|lme|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15918" CreationDate="2015-08-12T08:03:03.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes you can split it up, how long it keeps is depending on how you store it, and at what temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't know how long you can store it, but your best bet for it to keep longer is in the freezer. next best fridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also you may need to recalculate how much you need per 2 gals, since mr beer may use a different kind then what you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T08:03:03.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T08:40:10.813" Score="3" ViewCount="8630" Body="&lt;p&gt;The topic of keeping a constant temperature inside a fridge fermentation chamber/keezer/kegerator appears to pop up regularly. Using a dual temperature control (in my case an STC-1000) there are several common solutions for heating inside the fridge, from DIY projects&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light bulb (with paint can)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hair dryer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water bath + aquarium heater &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to 'plug in and go' methods&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heading pad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brew belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;space heater&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and of course&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no heating element at all&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how to do this in the &lt;strong&gt;safest&lt;/strong&gt; way. Clearly the final option (no heating element) is the safest, but this may compromise the quality of the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So assuming that I am using a heater, and my temperature controller malfunctions and leaves the heater on, which method (of the above, or other) is the best protected from causing a serious electrical hazards? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12530" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T19:03:08.080" Title="Safest way to heat an (enclosed) fermentation chamber" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T11:11:37.300" Score="1" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to kegging and I am trying to build a kegerator. I am short on living space so I am considering a particularly low-footprint concept. My question is: what do you guys think about this concept and is there a device I can buy instead of make?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I want it to be an open-top small fridge, with &lt;strong&gt;only enough space to insert the bottom part (e.g. 1/3) of a keg&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there would be heat loss and condensation issues (on the outer part of the keg), but if used for only a short time (cool and drink) I think it would be useful. I am using Cornellius kegs. Please share your thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3581" LastEditorUserId="1375" LastEditDate="2015-10-17T03:07:17.123" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T03:07:17.123" Title="Partially-covering kegerator" Tags="|kegerator|kegs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15883" CreationDate="2015-08-12T11:12:24.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice is to team up with a friend/parent who loves beer and decide to go for an easy recipe (beer kit). Take baby steps and have fun. My first two batches were extracts, but then we decided to step up and go whole grain (Brew in a bag) and a whole new world opened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12531" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T11:12:24.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15861" CreationDate="2015-08-12T12:19:58.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I all, thanks again for your help! I bottled the beer a week or so ago and primed it before hand with a little priming sugar and water. I had about half a bottle with the dregs of the demijohn that was reasonable clear so kept that as a test bottle whilst the other bottle conditioned. I opened the test bottle on Saturday and apart from being a bit cloudy it was a great brew. I am very proud of my first full-grain IPA! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a pic - instagram.com/p/6Hy1EySOKl/?taken-by=tea2sugars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12468" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T12:19:58.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T12:22:30.667" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;has anyone got any tried and approved recipe's for a wine or infusion that uses damsons? I've just discovered a free source whilst foraging yesterday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12468" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T22:21:06.883" Title="Recommended Damson Recipe?" Tags="|wine|recipe|country-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15918" CreationDate="2015-08-12T14:52:15.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't dilute the extract, for a couple reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the extract doesn't need to be sterile when stored, because it contains so little water. Add some water and things will start growing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, if your water contains any kind of chlorine, it will probably break down and ruin the flavor of the extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is heat the stuff up to make it thinner, repackage that for later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also don't think you should store it cold. If the sugars crystalize, then the excess water becomes available to spoil the rest of the extract (that's what happens to honey: been there, smelled it, made mead anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T04:49:31.750" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T04:49:31.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15920" CreationDate="2015-08-12T14:59:39.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The aquarium heater is probably the safest. The ones I've used before have their own controller, they're probably fairly reliable (nobody wants poached fish in the aquarium). Along with the water bath, you'll get good heat transmission without much hysteresis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have reasonable insulation, and you're not brewing in the artic, &amp;lt;100W should be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hair dryer is far more heat than you need. And if the controller failed, it would &lt;a href=&quot;https://what-if.xkcd.com/35/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;damage the beer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T14:59:39.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15913" CreationDate="2015-08-12T15:06:20.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double O-rings seems to be a common thing. One of my cornies has them where a square ring should be (square cross section, but still a circle). A taller poppet could help, if it fits inside the post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;---additional answer:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Keep in mind that these O-rings are making two seals: tube to keg, and tube to post. If the threads in the post are much deeper than threads on the keg, you'll have to stack up more rubber to reach sealing surface in the post. I suspect that you could cut off a short section of rubber tubing to recreate the original style of seal, if you have tubing of a suitable material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T07:09:46.930" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T07:09:46.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15906" CreationDate="2015-08-12T15:18:00.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Franklin is right about how much carbonic acid is actually in the beer. The formation of carbonic acid is pretty much irrelevant. But...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formation of carbonic acid isn't that slow, it's just hard to get CO2 into solution without some agitation. Soda fountains mix CO2 and water just before the soda comes out, and by the time it hits your cup it's all fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T15:18:00.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15913" CreationDate="2015-08-12T16:04:31.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The diptube touches the bottom maybe becoming taller than it would be? Things like this could happen when disassembling a lot of kegs and then mismatching parts. If it don't touch the bottom offering resistance and you have problems like this, maybe the poppets are too old and the springs are weak. Putting 2 o-rings will let them more pressurized and prevent leaks, but in the poppet-post place itself. If the leaks are happening between post and keg body and the diptube is not touching the bottom, then your posts are wrong, they probably were from other kind of keg. There's cornelius, spal, firestone... Some posts will be taller than others, and maybe you have a post taller than the keg thread, so you screw all you can and the post still don't reach the keg thread, and only using 2 o-rings it will be ok. But if it works like that, then everything is ok and you don't need to worry. Are you using new o-rings? The old ones could be to dry or deformed and don't will help. If you don't understand anything let me tell, maybe it's just my bad english. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T16:04:31.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15920" CreationDate="2015-08-12T16:06:20.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a reptile heater bulb that uses infrared radiation for heat.  Works great, no light to skunk beer, very safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T16:06:20.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1647" CreationDate="2015-08-12T18:04:48.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Multiple single strain fermentation followed by blending gives much better control over the combined yeast character and is way more reproducible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes like this. Split the batch into multiple fermenters, innoculating each with a different yeast strain. You can split the wort volume equally the first time you brew the recipe. Ferment each part optimizing temperature for each yeast strain (e.g., hotter WLP565, colder for US-05). After fermentation and conditioning, just prior to packaging, you can experiment blending in a small glass with different ratios to reach the desired yeast profile and complexity. When you found the ideal ratio, package according to it and take note. Next time you brew the recipe again, split the wort following this ideal ratio for maximum utilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12535" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T18:04:48.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2511" CreationDate="2015-08-12T18:07:55.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Multiple single strain fermentation followed by blending gives much better control over the combined yeast character and is way more reproducible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes like this. Split the batch into multiple fermenters, innoculating each with a different yeast strain. You can split the wort volume equally the first time you brew the recipe. Ferment each part optimizing temperature for each yeast strain (e.g., hotter WLP565, colder for US-05). After fermentation and conditioning, just prior to packaging, you can experiment blending in a small glass with different ratios to reach the desired yeast profile and complexity. When you found the ideal ratio, package according to it and take note. Next time you brew the recipe again, split the wort following this ideal ratio for maximum utilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12535" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T18:07:55.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15920" CreationDate="2015-08-12T18:46:54.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use one of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00S1VJ0OC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;seedling heat mats&lt;/a&gt; as my heat source inside a freezer. They're built to have stuff sitting on top of them, they're water resistant, and they heat gently. Seems pretty safe to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you can make any of these options much safer by plugging your temperature controller into a &lt;a href=&quot;https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/GFCI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GFCI&lt;/a&gt; outlet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T18:46:54.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15920" CreationDate="2015-08-12T19:03:08.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a heating blanket for Saison. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T19:03:08.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15921" CreationDate="2015-08-12T20:06:55.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing you are thinking of getting a small bar fridge, then turing it over so the opening points to the ceiling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly I am not sure that would work at all. You would need to chill the keg for at least three hours in a completely sealed fridge and with the door open it might take much longer or maybe not even work at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see two options which you could do. The first is if you are only interested in cooling and chilling for stints at a time. The second is what I would personally do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insulate a 5 gallon bucket with reflective insulation or styrofoam and fill it with water and salt. Put the keg in the bucket. The salt will lower the temperature of the water. You can then add in ice to further chill your keg. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a small keg i.e 1 gallon or 2.5 gallon keg. Fill the keg periodically from your main keg using a jumper connection and place the smaller keg in your fridge. The 1 gallon can sit upright like normal and the 2.5 gallon keg can have its dip tube bent so the keg can rest horizontally in your fridge. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warning: With repeated heating and cooling of your beer you can also develop permenant chill haze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Chill haze is a haze that forms when beer is cooled and disappears&#xA;  when the beer warms up. Repeated heating and cooling cycles can cause&#xA;  chill haze to turn permanent. Chill haze is formed when proteins in&#xA;  the beer bond weakly with polyphenols (also called tannins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/mead/item/645-fining-your-beer-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/mead/item/645-fining-your-beer-techniques&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of a 2.5 gallon keg in someone's fridge:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=108840&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=108840&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:06:55.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15911" CreationDate="2015-08-12T20:17:54.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbonation can be used in the same way as temperature is used to mask flavours. Just as the colder a beer is the less flavour is noticeable, the more carbonation the less mouth feel, texture, and flavour you will detect. To test this out, try a can of warm flat Coke. Very sweet, much smoother. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Franklin has already answered the degassing part. Also I'm not sure how your beer would come down to a normal level of carbonation over time unless you have some kind of a leak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:17:54.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15913" CreationDate="2015-08-12T20:23:37.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On many pin lock kegs that I own I have discovered these garbage poppets. The only difference is that mine were white instead of yellow, but they are still number &quot;2&quot;s matching those in your picture. Personally I threw them all out because after taking them out of the posts I was not able to fit them back in. I was able to do this with the longer number &quot;3&quot;s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started using universal poppets for both of my firestone and corny pin lock kegs. The upside is that these poppets also depress much easier as they offer considerable less resistance and disassemble much easier, coming out of the post without any work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy them for very cheap straight from China using Aliexpress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:23:37.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9992" CreationDate="2015-08-12T20:29:10.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a gas connector that has a built in check valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e get this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/GAS-BALL-LOCK-FITTING-WITH-CHECK-VALVE-P3358.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/GAS-BALL-LOCK-FITTING-WITH-CHECK-VALVE-P3358.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:29:10.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15851" CreationDate="2015-08-12T20:38:44.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same bottle rinser as well as those bottles. The neck is indeed too large and you will not be able to directly position the bottle over the rinser as you would a 12 oz glass bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you will still be able to use these two items together, it is just a bit less convenient. You will need to angle the neck slightly so that the lip of the bottle hits the first abutment on the pump. I've attached a picture of where this is. It is tricky because if you do not keep the bottle at an angle, the whole neck of the pump will annoyingly slide into the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s2aBJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s2aBJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:38:44.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T20:45:03.320" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I've been lagering a keg for a good couple of months. The cold has cause all the precipitate to settle at the bottom of the keg and I've got crystal clear beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if I move this keg to my kegerator and jostle it around a bit? Am I going to essentially lose months of lagering time because I shook it and mixed all the precipitate back into the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T07:01:30.513" Title="Can I move a keg that has been lagering?" Tags="|lagering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T23:32:08.510" Score="1" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I juiced some apples, took off all the sediments from the top, placed those in my brew bottle, and poured the fresh made apple juice in. (I made it as sloppy as I am explaining it.) I then poked a hole in a balloon and placed it atop my bottle. It has been sitting there since Sunday, the balloon expanded after the first day, and when I look i can see sediments rising and falling. How will I know if my batch is bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12537" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T13:37:19.383" Title="Natural hard cider from Apples to Alcohol no additives. Is this possible?" Tags="|techniques|cider|beginner|harvest|learning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11989" CreationDate="2015-08-13T02:07:05.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read an article from the EC Kraus blog on brewing a gruit (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eckraus.com/blog/gruit-ale-recipes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.eckraus.com/blog/gruit-ale-recipes&lt;/a&gt;). In addition to talking about what a gruit is and giving some intriguing recipes, the author said these were the most common flavor agents in a gruit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;myrica gale&#xA;wild rosemary&#xA;yarrow&#xA;juniper&#xA;spruce tips&#xA;birch tips&#xA;bay&#xA;nettles&#xA;marjoram&#xA;chamomile&#xA;rose hips&#xA;lavender&#xA;elder flowers&#xA;dried licorice root&#xA;fennel seed&#xA;- See more at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eckraus.com/blog/gruit-ale-recipes#sthash.CkG8dkNM.dpuf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.eckraus.com/blog/gruit-ale-recipes#sthash.CkG8dkNM.dpuf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it would be interesting to brew one of these ancient beers. I'll post here after i do so with the (hopefully) tasty results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12538" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T02:07:05.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-13T03:36:38.063" Score="1" ViewCount="4193" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay,  so I made a really sweet mead with 18 lbs clover honey, so it's pretty dark. Do you have to rack more often to try to clear meads with more honey? And also,  how often can I rack,  and how many times? I have only racked once into secondary fermenter. Thank you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12371" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T13:20:53.097" Title="How often can I rack?" Tags="|mead|racking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15940" CreationDate="2015-08-13T07:01:30.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you don't tip it over you'll be fine. Waves on top of the beer will not get to the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T07:01:30.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11635" CreationDate="2015-08-13T08:46:48.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops is a plant that can be grown in temperate climate and Rajesthan is not ideal location. Our research group has introduced hops cultivation in Lahaul (HP) and Leh Ladakh. If you want to cultivate it in these areas on partnership it is also possible or on buy back bases. &#xA;Our laboratory is having complete technical know how in hops cultivation and post harvest processing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12539" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T17:10:49.610" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T17:10:49.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15943" CreationDate="2015-08-13T13:12:57.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience, unless you are trying to stop/stun an active fermentation, you should not rack until your primary fermentation is either done or mostly done. If you racked too early, then there may not be enough yeast left to finish cleanly in a reasonable time, which could lead to yeast stress, a stalled ferment, or a very sluggish finish. You'll need a hydrometer to tell for sure, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that first racking, you should rack when you need to. For some yeasts, this means you can let it clear completely in secondary, which would give you 2 racks: 1 after primary, 1 before bottling to get it off the lees. Others, like Lalvin 71B, can throw off-flavors when left on the lees too long, and may need to be racked more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On average, I rack 3 times:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After primary &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mead is 80% - 90% clear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before bottling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is really on a case-by-case basis, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, let's take your honey and look at a sample recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;18 lbs clover honey&#xA;Lalvin D47 (tolerance: 14% ABV)&#xA;Fermaid K + DAP&#xA;Water to 5 gallons&#xA;&#xA;OG: 1.129&#xA;FG: 1.022 (sweet)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, since D47 in that recipe has a tolerance of 14%, and the OG was around 1.129, you can estimate that the FG will be at or around 1.022, or 14.02%. In this example, you would rack around then. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, I would let it clear in on its own in secondary, and then rack once more before bottling. You can also speed up clearing by cold crashing, adding finings, or both. I prefer to let mine clear on its own, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastEditorUserId="8203" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T13:20:53.097" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T13:20:53.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15941" CreationDate="2015-08-13T13:37:19.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The microbes that are present in the juice (from the skins of the apple and on the press itself) will eventually replicate and start to metabolize the sugars in the juice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, by &quot;bad&quot;, you mean &quot;poisonous or harmful to you&quot;, then the answer is that it will not be harmful or bad, except for the harmful effects of alcohol.  The acids and alcohol created by a fermentation do not create not a hospitable environment (like the human body) for pathogenic microbes, fungi, spores, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, by &quot;bad&quot;, you mean &quot;My friends and I do not want to drink it&quot;, then the way you are fermenting the juice is a gamble.  You are better off buying a $2-3 satchet of wine yeast and adding that to the juice.  It will likely out-compete the microbes for the food (sugar/fructose) and produce a relatively clean-tasting cider.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, you should taste the juice in a few weeks and see how it tastes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T13:37:19.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7833" CreationDate="2015-08-13T16:29:59.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other contributor to Acetaldehyde in beer is excessive aging on yeast. As the yeast cells stress, and eventually die, they can lyse (burst) and release AA from the cell interior into the beer.&#xA;This happens a lot with big, high alcohol beers, because often they have trouble getting to the end fermentation, so the brewers prolong the fermentation time on the yeast-a consequence is that the yeast cells can die and release AA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12542" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T16:29:59.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2441" CreationDate="2015-08-13T17:27:31.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing an avocado saison today. Prior to brewing I'm going to make some mashed pulp with as much oil removed as possible. I'm going to start by blending the flesh, then adding coconut cream, heating the mixture until the oils start to separate, then press the oils out through muslin. I'll keep the pulp and add it to the boil with about 15 minutes left. (I've used this technique before to make avocado oil and it works fairly well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12543" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T17:27:31.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7994" CreationDate="2015-08-13T20:13:46.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no magic number because it depends on your wort volume, OG, ambient temp, stir-plate, etc., but a short starter will benefit you as long as it's over 6 hours or so to ensure at least a couple of budding cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a time crunch, you definitely cannot cold crash and decant—you'll decant a good fraction of your total cell count; defeating the purpose of the starter and likely doing more harm than good. With that in mind, I would keep the volume of the starter to 1L or less because that wort is going to taste stale. And I would not go much above 1.030 with my starter wort (you won't finish fermentation of it anyway in such a short time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12544" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T20:13:46.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15876" CreationDate="2015-08-14T09:43:44.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I was after a sweet/medium cider the I'd go for an Ale yeast, a medium/dry cider a wine yeast and one as dry as the Sahara Champagne yeast. I am guessing a Saison would be dry and full of yeasty esters :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding apples you can make tasty drinkable cider with most apples, but for a full bodied cider you will want to get hold of some cider apples as they have higher levels of tannin in the skin that fill out the body and add extra mouth feel. I have a friend who made an amazing cider/wine with 50% pressed apples and 50% pressed white grapes from his garden a few years back, the grape skins provided what was lacking in his apples skins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it greatly matters what apples or yeast, and as always home brewing and experimentation go hand in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T09:43:44.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15953" CreationDate="2015-08-14T17:50:16.027" Score="1" ViewCount="1293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just had a major house move. During the move, I noticed my fermentation bucket had developed mold. Quite large mounds (to me anyway) of perhaps 0.25in diameter, in the corner of the base. Clearly I didn't do a good job of cleaning it last time I used it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've only rinsed with high pressure water - basically to remove the odour for the move. How should I best kill and clean this stuff ready for brewing? Is regular StarSan sufficient?  Of course chlorine bleach would really clean it but it would leave a bad taste. Perhaps something else?&#xA;Or perhaps I should just replace the bucket at chalk it up to &quot;remember to clean the bucket properly&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T08:13:02.440" Title="Best way to clean moldy fermentation bucket" Tags="|sanitation|bucket|mold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15952" CreationDate="2015-08-14T17:54:27.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;StarSan is a sanitizer, not a cleaner.  I'd use Craftmeister alkaline cleaner.  Amazing stuff and makes PBW look weak.  Or just buy a new bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T17:54:27.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15921" CreationDate="2015-08-14T17:59:27.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you will have problems trying to keep the keg cold, and this will be terribly inefficient: The temperature of the beer in the keg will tend to equalize, and so the exposed keg will constantly be warming the beer as the refrigerator tries to cool it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you considered a jockey box? For short periods of time, they are very effective at chilling beer on demand. For a more permanent setup, you could try building the coils into a small refrigerator that would slow the melting of the ice, although if too cold, it could freeze the beer during periods of non-use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T17:59:27.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15907" CreationDate="2015-08-15T00:25:01.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your OG was in the 1.060-1.065 range, which is fine. Did you taste it? If your fermentation is stuck it will still taste sweet like wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not add anything, just give it more time. And as others have mentioned, a hydrometer or refractometer will be the only way to know for sure where you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T00:25:01.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15958" CreationDate="2015-08-15T10:32:52.910" Score="0" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm putting recipe on brewersfriend and I want to add sugar at the end of boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is in which section should I put it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentables (as late addition) or Other Ingredients (but it won't be taken into account during calculations)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="717" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T15:17:16.713" Title="Where to put sugar during recipie editing on brewersfriend?" Tags="|sugar|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15957" CreationDate="2015-08-15T15:17:16.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd want to do it as a late-addition fermentable. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/faq/#recipes19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ late addition entry&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Use this to exclude the fermentable from the estimated boil gravity used in the calculator.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you'll have the right gravity for bittering calculations during the boil, and the right post-boil gravity (reflecting the addition of sugar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T15:17:16.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15960" CreationDate="2015-08-15T20:19:00.617" Score="1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm conditioning an IPA. After 2 weeks in primary and 2 in secondary all activity had ceased.  Then I dry hopped fairly modestly - 75g or so - and 2 weeks into that the thing seems to have gone CO2 crazy.  Last night I pulled the Corny valve to equalise pressure.  Tonight the keg has enough pressure to dispense very quickly.  How can this be happening?  The gravity isn't dropping any more from a reasonable 1.012 (from ~1.050), so I don't get what's powering it.  Any ideas?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8069" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T20:23:51.303" Title="Dry-hopping creates CO2 pressure" Tags="|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15959" CreationDate="2015-08-15T20:23:51.303" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hops are creating nucleation sites for the CO2 to come out of solution in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T20:23:51.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15952" CreationDate="2015-08-17T08:13:02.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what bucket you use, it might just be easier to buy a new one. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, get an unscented soap and wash properly. Rinse, wash again, just to make sure. Rinse well. And verify that you got everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can now use StarSan to sanitize your fermenter. after it has been cleaned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T08:13:02.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T02:59:15.983" Score="2" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although tanin gives an unpleasant astringent effect in beers, in wines - also, but - it is known as antioxidant and protector against UV light. So, in beers can tanins also be welcome at least considering aging ? Or hops react to O2 and light more quickly than tanins ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T12:41:18.013" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T14:20:33.137" Title="Where tanins are good in beers?" Tags="|conditioning|aging|oxidation|skunk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T23:39:40.580" Score="2" ViewCount="973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was planning to bottle my beer before leaving for a trip, but my friends being here distracted me and I totally forgot about it until today. I moved it to the bottling bucket and drew off a sample and it looks, smells, and tastes fine, however I am wondering what kind of a change a month of sitting in the wort can cause, purely from a curiosity standpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my first time with this particular kit so I can't tell specific taste changes myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those curious it's the True Brew Irish Stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12558" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T05:15:38.333" Title="Forgot My Fermenting Brew for a Month!" Tags="|beer|stout|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15965" CreationDate="2015-08-19T00:09:34.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;An extra month of aging isn't a problem for a beer with healthy yeast stored at an appropriate temperature. It might have been better if it was already bottled, but your yeast have had extra time to eat up residual sugars that tend to make home brew a little heavy, and the yeast should have flocculated more giving a cleaner, clearer beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The potential downsides are yeast autolysis, if it is stored too warm. And hops flavor will decrease, but that might not be very noticable in an irish stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T00:09:34.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15964" CreationDate="2015-08-19T13:33:24.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're absolutely right that tannins (a kind of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyphenol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;polyphenol&lt;/a&gt;) are anti-oxidative and that increased levels in finished have been linked to a lower degree of beer staling (in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbaa.com/publications/tq/tqPastIssues/1999/Abstracts/tq99ab10.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt;, for example). I've never heard the claim of their anti-UV-light effects though, so I won't touch on that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a tricky question because there will always be a trade-off between the increasingly unpleasant flavor of tannins and their protective power. Sulfur dioxide (the smell of matches) is the exact same way in that it acts as an anti-oxidant, but high levels are often unpleasant to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polyphenols are also highly reactive with proteins and in mashing, boiling, fermentation and conditioning, will tend to bind with them and precipitate (or form haze). This is largely what hot break and cold break is. So, mashing to increase tannins might not actually increase the amount in the finished beer, it may simply serve to help precipitate more protein during the brewing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also think that trying to provide tannins as a source of protection for aging beer would only be useful if you've already done everything you can to exclude oxygen, the real culprit for staling, from your beer (as they say, grab the low-hanging fruit before you reach for the ladder). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, your theory is entirely sound (tannins &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; protect beer from staling), it's just important to remember that it will always be a compromise between flavor and stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T13:33:24.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15968" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-19T15:11:33.127" Score="1" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fellow home brewer here with a question. My buddies and I are looking at making an Apple Caramel Brown Ale for this fall but are having trouble agreeing on a way to add the apple and caramel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'd like a strong apple taste and sneaky end hit of caramel to overpower the malt. We're using DME. We don't have an official recipe just yet so we're open to suggestions! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should we add the apple? I've read suggestions such as adding during the boil, freezing it, cooking and freezing. What do you do to get optimum apple taste? We want people to know there's apple in the beer but not have it taste like apple cider. More apple, less sugar if possible. Also, how much do we add in a 5 gal batch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12561" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T21:12:10.133" Title="Adding Apple/Caramel to Brown Ale" Tags="|fermentation|fruit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15965" CreationDate="2015-08-19T19:43:37.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have left beer in primary for over a month due to travel, etc. to no ill effects (assuming proper sanitation - problems will be more apparent given more time to infect).&#xA;The only issue you may have is while the since the yeast flocculates and can be clearer, much of it will drop out of the wort into the trub.&#xA;If you are bottle priming, this can cause carbonation to take much longer than usual. I have had it take months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Priming can be sped up by agitating the closed bottles gently from time to time (semi-daily). Alternatively, you can help things out by simply sprinkling dry yeast (of the same type used in primary!) into the priming bucket to make sure sufficient yeast is present. I have also read about using champagne yeast for priming, but opinions seem to be be mixed &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1101/using-champagne-yeast&quot;&gt;Using champagne yeast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8113" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T19:43:37.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15965" CreationDate="2015-08-20T05:15:38.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.morebeer.com/content/homebrew-off-flavors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; provides a collection of off flavors. Among them you'll find the &lt;b&gt;yeasty&lt;/b&gt; flavor mentioned by Pepi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This once happened to me, but the problem I had was the &quot;undesirable&#xA;“hot” sensation in the throat&quot;, caused by higher alcohols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nice that your beer tasted good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T05:15:38.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15973" CreationDate="2015-08-20T06:31:57.107" Score="1" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've racked my beer to a secondary fermentor and added about two liters of watermelon juice.  I placed the airlock on as I always do during secondary fermentation but the fruit sugar is causing a vigorous fermentation.  The airlock was filled with gunk within an hour.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I leave the airlock off until the fermentation slows down a bit? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12563" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T12:32:19.007" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T12:32:19.007" Title="Vigorous secondary fermentation after fruit addition" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15972" CreationDate="2015-08-20T09:31:57.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a very quick response - was there still a lot of yeast in suspension? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep that fermention covered any way you can - fruit flies are going to lose their minds over this stuff. I suggest a blowoff tube going into some sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T09:31:57.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10234" CreationDate="2015-08-21T18:47:11.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had a similar problem. Could not figure out what was happening. One night, when pouring a beer and standing around the kegerator all of a sudden the regulator starts spewing out CO2 and turns white from the cold gas!! Did this for about 8 seconds and quit. Replaced the regulator and have not had an issue since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12570" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T18:47:11.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15977" CreationDate="2015-08-22T01:47:50.860" Score="2" ViewCount="576" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do my yeast plates end up looking like this?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQiZf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQiZf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And not this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qf28Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qf28Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My yeast plate is composed of wort + agar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T02:53:10.600" Title="Yeast plate not showing single colonies" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15976" CreationDate="2015-08-22T02:53:10.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you streaked several times from the same sample of yeast, and that there was a bit too much liquid in each streak (they resemble puddles). The liquid should be nearly invisible on your when applied to the plate. Also the plate surface should be a bit dry, so liquid is absorbed quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The streaking technique is important too: the plate in the second picture was streak at least twice, but yeast was only added once. They dipped the inoculating loop in the yeast sample for the streak on the left, then the loop was sterilized and used for the second streak on the right - without adding any more yeast. The yeast in the right streak came from the streak on the left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people will repeat the steak &amp;amp; sterilize steps 4 or 5 times as they work around the plate, spread the yeast thinner and thinner. I also suspect that the first streak plate in second picture was streaked over again, to get the single cell colonies between the heavy streaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://archive.maltosefalcons.com/tech/MB_Raines_Guide_to_Yeast_Culturing.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; from the Maltose Falcons provides a lot more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T02:53:10.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15979" CreationDate="2015-08-23T15:51:44.053" Score="0" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using a home-made heating belt (actually, a heating pad), and I forgot and left it on overnight. The next morning, the temp was 26 degrees and the fermentation had stalled. I checked the gravity with a hydrometer, and it is at 1.002. Should I proceed to bottling, or should I add more sugar and yeast to ensure that there is sufficient yeast action to carbonate and pressurize the bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12574" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T17:17:40.680" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T17:17:40.680" Title="I have a stalled homebrew because the temp got too high, but the must is at the right place — should I bottle?" Tags="|bottling|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15978" CreationDate="2015-08-23T16:30:46.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's much more likely that your fermentation is done, not stalled.  That temp is not high enough to hurt the yeast, but it is high enough to make the fermentation go very quickly.  Given that and your current gravity reading, it's \done and you can bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T16:30:46.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15981" CreationDate="2015-08-23T20:26:28.670" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of dissolving a 1:1 salt to distilled water solution of a weight/volume that I can measure easier,  then adding just the needed amount of the solution to my mash according to my water profile. I would store the rest of the solution for brewing batches later on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trouble has been measuring in such small quantities for 5 gallons brews. I hope to simplify the process without sacrificing precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dilemma is in how much of the solution I would need to calculate to add to the mash/sparge. For example, if a profile calls for 1 gram of a salt and my solution is equal grams to milliliters, would I add 2 milliliters of solution for the 1 gram?  The way I see it is 1 milliliter would be 50% salt and 50% water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6074" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T22:11:55.123" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T22:28:50.823" Title="How do I use a simple solution for adding salts for water treatment?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15980" CreationDate="2015-08-23T22:28:50.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you make a 1g:1mL solution, then you still need to be &lt;em&gt;as&lt;/em&gt; precise, you've just changed the measure from grams to milliliters (not millimeters ;). This might still be a useful change, though; sometimes its easier to measure volume than weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, make a 1g:10mL solution. Now, assuming you can accurately measure 1mL of the solution, you can measure out 0.1g of the salt. A 1g:100mL solution would let you be uselessly precise! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with 1g of salt, then add enough water to &lt;em&gt;end up&lt;/em&gt; at 100mL of solution.  You might have added 99.5mL, but you now have 1g of salt distributed in now 100mL of solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It bears pointing out you can get 0.1g-accurate digital scales for $10 and 0.01g-accurate scales for $20. My usual salt additions for 10gl batches are 2.x-6.x-8.x grams, so a 0.1g-accurate scale is totally fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T22:28:50.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15891" CreationDate="2015-08-24T14:38:24.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Artificial drinks - no&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of them contains preservatives that will kill your fermentation. And if fermentation will not be killed, sugar and water will imbalance original design of your recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Juices - no&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Juices are usually around 1.04 as far as I know, and you went with 1.06, so this will restart your fermentation and dilute the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Condensed juices / juice concentrate - no&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will probably restart fermentation, or kill yeast (forget about carbonation). Basically, that's what you got in cider kit, so diluting with water to the same OG your cider have will create more of cider, but not more taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Natural / artificial extracts - yes / maybe&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are things like &lt;em&gt;Natural Organic Apple Extract&lt;/em&gt;. Basically apple juice sans water and sugar. Exactly what your cider seems to be lacking. Or you can forget natural and organic, and buy something like &lt;em&gt;Apple Flavor Drops&lt;/em&gt;. Most of artificial flavorings doesn't need any preservatives in them, but always read their labels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T14:38:24.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11216" CreationDate="2015-08-24T20:23:03.227" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;very simply - you have killed the yeast by adding it to the sugar solution while it is to hot, in my experience.&#xA;dissolve in to the least amount hot water then add cold, &#xA;if dissolving in a demi-john add an inch of cold first then half a kettle of hot water then sugar - then top up with hot till dissolved  &quot;DON`T COVER THE TOP&quot;  handle of a wooden spoon or swirl to mix sugar in to water. hope this helps  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12579" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T20:23:03.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15985" CreationDate="2015-08-25T14:10:52.037" Score="1" ViewCount="1812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a pair of ball lock corny kegs at a garage sale recently, and they are in great shape, although they're missing the top cap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to tell whether they are standard or racetrack? Are there standard measurements available for each size, so I could measure the opening and discover it that way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8487" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T15:50:56.423" Title="Racetrack or standard kegs?" Tags="|kegging|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15984" CreationDate="2015-08-25T15:50:56.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Racetrack keg lids are straight on the long sides, whereas standard keg lids are curved all the way around. Images help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegoutlet.com/keg-lid-reconditioned-all-standard-kegs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This is a standard keg lid.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegoutlet.com/keg-lid-reconditioned-racetrack-style.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This is a racetrack keg lid.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are any straight lines on your keg lid opening then it's probably a racetrack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T15:50:56.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1868" CreationDate="2015-08-25T19:33:06.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In first place it's very hard to get a blood-red beer. The beers that are said to be red are actually ruby, copper or reddish brown in color. Just to make it clear because you are probably aware of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite malt for red color is Roasted Barley (in very small amounts - maximum 2% of your grist). Munich is probably one of the best too, and Vienna will create orange hues. There is one special malt called Red X that was created specially for its color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other caramel, crystal and dark malts may result in either red or brown color so be careful on your choice. Carared is okay for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some alternatives are using food coloring, fruits or even beet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12585" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T19:33:06.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1868" CreationDate="2015-08-25T19:46:17.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All those answers above used to be the way to go.  Since then, Best Malz has introduced Red X malt.  It gives you the reddest color I've ever seen, especially if you use it as 100% of your grist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T19:46:17.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="561" CreationDate="2015-08-25T20:30:52.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just complementing the answer above: Wheat malt also increases the body. It greatly improves the head retention, even in small quantities (5-10%). May result in a slight white haze due to proteins in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When brewing with wheat, it is common to add a protein rest (between 45 and 55 degress Celsius) for breaking down proteins into smaller proteins and amino acids. This will make the mash less sticky, and the resulting beer will be more clear. An extended protein rest will negatively affect the head though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in other answers, wheat alone is not a common base malt. Different sources recommend a maximum from 50 to 80% wheat in the grist. It is theoretically possible to use 100% percent wheat though, just be sure to add rice hulls for lautering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12585" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T20:30:52.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15996" CreationDate="2015-08-27T01:59:04.153" Score="1" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of two classic beers that should be consumed young and taste awful when aged - Belgian Wit and German Hefeweizen. What they obviously have in common is that both are wheat beers. Does that mean that wheat decreases shelf life and tastes better on young beers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12585" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T07:07:18.087" Title="Does Wheat decrease shelf life?" Tags="|aging|wheat|shelf-life|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12984" CreationDate="2015-08-27T12:06:46.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since &quot;Leffe Brune&quot; is one of my favorite beer.&#xA; I have tried to clone it for a while.&#xA; I have now created a recipe that is incredibly similar.&#xA; I can not distinguish between the beer in a test.&#xA; Smoked malt gives the taste of pine tar, and that use of&#xA; Safbrew T-58 provides a high FG, allowing that the sweetness remains.&#xA; All malts are from Weyermann. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reciepe&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/258683/porterline-syndrome-leffe-brune-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/258683/porterline-syndrome-leffe-brune-&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12586" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T12:06:46.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15989" CreationDate="2015-08-27T16:30:50.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can you ascribe it to the wheat?  IPA also is much better fresh and young and has no wheat.  I think it's more due to yeast character, but you'd have to define what it is you don't like abut them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T16:30:50.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-27T21:09:21.477" Score="1" ViewCount="681" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just did my first batch using the fast ferment conical fermenter.  Brewed an extract kit from Northern Brewer....their Smashing Pumpkin Ale.  It's a 1.054 OG brew and I used a dry yeast to ferment.  48 hours after pitching at a safe temperature, I'm getting NO action on my airlock.  Scared, I cracked the lid and almost passed out from the CO2 waft...so fermentation is indeed occurring, just not presenting itself in the airlock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone else have this issue or have any ideas what's going on?  My initial thoughts are the CO2 is escaping from a leak in the plumbing somewhere...although my inspections haven't confirmed this (smell, sanitized water to look for bubbling).  The foam cap on the fermentation was definitely there, although not ridiculously voluminous.  Oddly, there was a lighter area of foam in the middle surrounded by a darker area of foam.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12588" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T00:28:23.550" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T01:40:03.173" Title="Fast Fermentation - Should I be worried?" Tags="|yeast|airlock|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15992" CreationDate="2015-08-28T02:11:04.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a serious problem: pressure in the fermenter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The foam you have described sounds just right: the dark patches are happy yeast floating on the foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the &quot;waft&quot; of CO2 from &quot;crack(ing)&quot; the lid makes me wonder whether your fermenter is pressurized. Opening a fermenter should never result in a sudden release of CO2. The CO2 should hardly be noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You should carefully crack that lid again ASAP.&lt;/strong&gt; If there is hissing, then you have prevented an explosion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then when the pressure is gone, remove the airlock, check it for clogging or other blockage (is the airlock new too? Maybe the hole is blocked?). Change to another airlock, or a blowoff tube, or anything that will let CO2 out and keep bugs from getting in. Otherwise, leave the lid cracked while you run to your homebrew store for another airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OTOH, if there is no hissing when the lid is loosened, then there is a CO2 leak. The escaping CO2 will keep oxygen out during the rapid fermentation, but you should rack to another fermenter before it slows too much (before the foam goes away).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-09-06T01:40:03.173" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T01:40:03.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-28T09:05:51.960" Score="2" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to brew a high gravity porter for christmas this year, aiming for OG 1.100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've browsed several questions on this site relating to high gravity beers and the tendency seems to be towards putting in all fermentables and yeast(s) right at the start of fermentation and just letting it crack on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is this method more favourable over doing a secondary pitch of yeast along with a secondary addition of fermentables into the primary after an initial fermentation period?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan was to initially use enough fermentables to reach 6/7% ABV (FG equivalent) using US-05 at the low end of the fermentation temperature range, leave that to go for 3/4 days and take a gravity reading. Following on from that, I would add a second lot of boiled malt along with a high ABV tolerant yeast and allow that to ferment slowly over the next week or so, slowing upping the temperature until everything has fermented out. How does this sound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T14:26:46.153" Title="Which is a better fermentation method for high gravity beers?" Tags="|yeast|primary-fermentation|extract-brewing|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15994" CreationDate="2015-08-28T14:26:46.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to add all your fermentables at once. The reason is that if you wait until your 7% beer has completed primary fermentation to add more yeast, you are adding that alcohol tolerant yeast to a hostile environment - one in which there is already a high level of alcohol present. Despite being bred as a &quot;alcohol tolerant&quot; yeast, it is still yeast and still requires ideal conditions in order to kick off fermentation: good aeration, good temperature, and low alcohol concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you make a healthy starter, and make sure you control your temperature - if you let it ferment at ambient, it may ferment just fine but you'll end up with some unpleasant fusel alcohols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2215" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T14:26:46.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15989" CreationDate="2015-08-28T20:03:07.913" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Does that mean that wheat decreases shelf life[?]'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In certain instances, yes. Higher-protein wheat can lead to haze instability (you probably don't care in a wheat beer but you might in other styles). The proteins may also lead to flavor instability, for instance in the presence of dying yeast cells (the yeast excrete an enzyme [protease] into the beer upon death, which breaks down proteins, affecting the beer's flavor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'[...]and tastes better on young beers?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly, since wheat has a pretty mellow flavor to begin with. But that's largely subjective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt; there are too many other things that make these beers better fresh as opposed to aged to single wheat out as the culprit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both are relatively low in alcohol, which is famously preservative in aged beers. Low alcohol beers also require less conditioning before they are fully developed in flavor (&lt;em&gt;fast-maturing&lt;/em&gt;, as the BJCP link says). Both good reasons to drink something sooner rather than later, and one reason you typically see aged beers being ~8+% ABV. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both are low-hop beers, presumably to keep from muddling the complex ester/phenol highlights these styles are famous for. Hop bitterness can inhibit growth of certain beer-spoiling microbes if sufficiently present. Below 15 or so IBUs, there's no significant protection. So smaller-than-usual levels of contamination could potentially affect the flavor stability while aging.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both feature distinct yeast characters, notably phenolics and esters (&lt;em&gt;cloves&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;bananas&lt;/em&gt;, respectively), which tend to fade over time as their chemical constituents oxidize or otherwise react to form less flavor-active (or less pleasant) compounds. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's not so much that wheat can't contribute in its own way to instability, rather that if it does it's just one among a number of reasons, for these two specific styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T20:03:07.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-29T01:04:39.953" Score="1" ViewCount="847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 5 gallon keg of ginger beer, and when I pour it from the faucet, it's foamy. I can also see that it's foamy inside the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The regulator is set to 35 PSI, and it's been in the fridge for 2 weeks, so it's fully carbonated. It's soda, so I want it to be well carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fridge is close to freezing temperature. Th line from the keg to the faucet is 20 feet long, 3/16th inch, and it's positioned above the keg. Everything is in the fridge, and I pour into a cold glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried a shorter line (5 feet), and a different faucet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried lowering the pressure to various pressures down to as low as 6 PSI, burping the keg, and pouring with that. With the 5 feet line, it's still foamy, and with the 20 feet line, no liquid comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weird thing is the 5gal first batch I made came out great, and poured just fine. But I don't remember all of my settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help! How do I make it not foamy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12595" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T21:47:30.957" Title="Soda is foamy from the keg" Tags="|foam|soda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15997" CreationDate="2015-08-29T16:20:57.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;20 feet of 3/16&amp;quot; (vinyl) beer line is 60psi of resistance. Even at 35 psi, I'm surprised you got any flow. 5 feet of 3/16&amp;quot; beer line is 15psi of resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;35 psi is an extremely high carbonation level (for beer, not necessarily for soda), even near-freezing.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest using the 5ft beer line at 16-20 psi. That should get you 3-4 volumes of CO₂, but not so much that it's all foam going out the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2021-06-11T21:47:30.957" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T21:47:30.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15997" CreationDate="2015-08-29T17:44:32.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the flow on the keg with water, you may have a blockage that's preventing clear flow through the faucet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T17:44:32.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2015-08-29T21:06:31.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a really sticky label I scraped off as much as I could and tried both ammonia and nail polish remover, not at the same time!&#xA;My vote goes to the nail polish remover. it seemed to work more effectively. Dab it on and let it sit for a minute to dissolve the adhesive. It's a elbow grease project in any case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12597" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T21:06:31.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-30T09:22:43.157" Score="1" ViewCount="828" Body="&lt;p&gt;When adding spraymalt (instead of brewing sugar) to the filling bottle stage,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the first few bottles were easy as spooning the spraymalt into them,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then found the spraymalt powder was starting to congeal on the spoon and in around &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the funnel, so making this a hard task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way of entering the spraymalt into the bottles ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12600" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T14:27:13.800" Title="Adding Spraymalt" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16002" CreationDate="2015-08-30T14:27:13.800" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot;&gt;Compute&lt;/a&gt; the total amount of spraymalt required to carbonate your entire batch of beer. Dissolve that amount of spraymalt in a cup or two of water to create your priming solution. Boil it briefly to sanitize. Allow it to cool. Pour it into your bottling bucket. Rack the beer onto it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I find that giving the entire batch a &lt;em&gt;gentle&lt;/em&gt; stir at this point helps to evenly distribute the priming sugar throughout. Others refuse to do this for fear of oxygen exposure. I've never had that problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't use a bottling bucket, then add the priming solution directly to the beer vessel and give it a gentle stir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.org/How-to-Bottle-Beer_ep_34-1.html&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewing.org/How-to-Bottle-Beer_ep_34-1.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T14:27:13.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9945" CreationDate="2015-08-30T16:55:45.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also use BIAB with a bag bought online.   The flour from the crushed grain flows pretty freely out of the mash and is present after the boil and chill as a huge cloud settling towards the bottom of my fermenter.   Whirlfloc definitely helps clump the stuff together with the cold-crash material, but the goop clogs every filter I have tried.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried letting the wort settle for 24-36 hours while refrigerating to fermentation temp, then racking to a clean fermenter.   That was a huge pain because I did not have an extra gallon to discard, and filtering the remainder at the bottom was impossible.   There was also the fear of contaminating my batch by messing around with it in various containers.   It seems one could do this effectively with additional equipment like vacuum pumps and Buchner funnels, or maybe a closed system that you could let drip for hours into a giant filter bag...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, the flour does compact nicely into the trub, and a good cold crash for 2-days at the end of fermentation pretty much takes care of the entire problem for me.   On my next batch I am going to try filtering the flour BEFORE the mash by screening it with a #60 screen.   Maybe I lose 5-10% of the grain bill that way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12602" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T16:55:45.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16007" CreationDate="2015-08-31T18:35:34.740" Score="1" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished brewing my 3rd batch of beer (after taking 2 years off) and I started looking up the debate about secondary fermentation. I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7229/what-is-the-secondary-fermentation-debate&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article which I think was explained very well by the accepted answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brew that I just made has been fermenting for 3 days so far. It is a Red Hook ESB brew that I have a recipe for. The recipe says you should rack it to a secondary after 4 days. However, going off of this quote from that link,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, the new rule of thumb: don’t rack a beer to a secondary, ever, unless you are going to conduct a secondary fermentation.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should not rack this ale to a secondary. Seems like almost all recipes from books say you should do a secondary. To be totally clear, I have 2 questions,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I rack this to a secondary?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I do not rack a beer to a secondary, how can I improve clarity? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2288" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T15:25:12.653" Title="If a beer recipe calls for secondary fermentation, should I do it even though there are drawbacks?" Tags="|beer|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16009" CreationDate="2015-08-31T18:49:44.967" Score="3" ViewCount="1446" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have never done a full mash brew before only ever malt extract brews. But after reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thekitchn.com/5-reasons-why-i-became-a-1gallon-brewer-beer-sessions-189903&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; thought I would give it a go using a 1 gallon method as oppose to a 5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I have a few questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do I simply divide all ingredient quantities by 5 if using a 5 gallon recipe? I figured yes about malt but not too sure about hops, do I still need to use the full amount stated to impart flavour or should I divide the quantity by 5 as well?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Sparge - obviously I have never done this beforeas I have only ever done malt extract method and thus have no special equipment and don't really want to buy any right now. So using just a colander and or a sieve how would I achieve this stage successfully? I would really appreciate a fairly thorough yet simple explanation if at all possible as I am slightly confused about this stage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11946" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T06:00:16.590" Title="1 Gallon Full Mash Brew" Tags="|sparge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16005" CreationDate="2015-08-31T19:02:53.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not rack it to secondary. You can improve clarity with: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simply waiting longer in primary for more particulate matter to settle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cold-crashing to promote yeast settling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clarifying agents like Irish moss, gelatin, clarityferm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;careful racking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="6534" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T12:29:46.020" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T12:29:46.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16015" CreationDate="2015-08-31T19:08:30.233" Score="3" ViewCount="1919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed there are a bunch of homebrewing tools/apps available in the android store. I'm wondering what the best ones are. Some of them you have to pay for, i'm okay with paying for an app if it's useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Features i'm looking for are recipe formulation, brew day log and timers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12284" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T07:15:30.853" Title="What are the best Android Apps for homebrewing" Tags="|recipe-formulation|beer-tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16006" CreationDate="2015-09-01T11:32:46.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done a couple of batches of about one gallon. (I targeted twelve 12-oz. bottles, which requires a little more than a gallon into the fermenter.) Small batches are generally much simpler than five-gallon or larger batches because they require less equipment and can be done on the kitchen stove. They also require less time so a mid-week brew day is realistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when all was said and done, I didn't feel like 12 bottles of beer justified the effort. So I bought myself &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.org/FOUR-3-Gallon-Cornelius-Style-Pin-Lock-Used-Kegs-_p_4673.html&quot;&gt;four 3-gallon pin lock kegs&lt;/a&gt; (I already had kegging equipment) and started doing 3-gallon batches using the same process as the 1-gallon batches. Totally worth the effort!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So take that for what it's worth. Your mileage may vary, of course. Now to answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, you pretty much just divide everything by five. You might find&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/mead/item/1378-small-scale-brewing&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; helpful. Commonly used brewing software can &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/scaling-a-beer-recipe-in-beersmith-2/&quot;&gt;scale&#xA;recipes automatically&lt;/a&gt;. You'll need a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0012N1NAA&quot;&gt;pretty sensitive scale&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;to measure the small hop additions. I find that measuring hops in&#xA;grams is much easier for small batches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For small batches, I use the no-sparge brew-in-a-bag method. I bring&#xA;the entire volume of water up to strike temperature in my kettle,&#xA;place a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00C2A9L0Q&quot;&gt;five-gallon paint strainer bag&lt;/a&gt; inside the kettle, and&#xA;pour the crushed grain into the bag. After getting the mash to the&#xA;correct temperature, I set my oven to its lowest setting (170F) and&#xA;place the kettle in the oven for an hour or so. When conversion is&#xA;complete, I lift the bag out with the grain inside. I place a&#xA;colander atop the kettle and set the bag inside the colander to&#xA;drain while the wort comes to a boil. Once the grains have drained,&#xA;I discard them and proceed as with any other batch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: None of the links up there are affiliate links. I just provided them to be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T11:32:46.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16011" CreationDate="2015-09-01T18:57:23.937" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a great american wheat beer over the summer, and got to thinking about winter brew time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there such a thing as a dark wheat beer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see a few recipes on brewtoad but not much. It doesnt really seem to be a &quot;thing&quot;. Maybe I'm using the wrong terminology in my search? Perhaps there's something else I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3455" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T20:37:27.393" Title="A recipe for a winter version of a wheat beer?" Tags="|beer|wheat-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16010" CreationDate="2015-09-01T20:37:27.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  It's called dunkelweizen.  Made with wheat malt and Munich malt.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/15BDunkelweizen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/15BDunkelweizen&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T20:37:27.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16008" CreationDate="2015-09-02T00:43:27.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my phone the only 3 beer-related apps I have installed are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=appinventor.ai_aielloster.BeerCalc&amp;amp;hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jomebrew Beer Stats and Conversions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I grabbed this primarily to convert Brix to SG because my refractometer is in Brix. The interface isn't great, but its a quick simple app for doing some basic conversions. It will also take OG and SG and give you ABV and attenuation. It also does have a timer sections to it where you can set up a few timers for a step mash or boil additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.brewersfriend.free&amp;amp;hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use their website for creating and storing recipes, so grabbed their app too. It is fairly new and has some bugs, but isn't bad for tweaking a recipe here or there, or if I'm out talking to other brewers and someone wants to know what I used in a beer I can look it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this app also has a brew-day section where it guides you through the recipe and each step, letting you track measurements along the way, but I never use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.transmutex.bjcpdroid&amp;amp;hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP Droid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which I mostly just use when tasting or researching, for style guide info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also a computer programmer and like my share of gadgets, but for me, I like just having a good old fashioned printout of my recipe and a spiral notebook to track my readings, measurements, and tasting notes for each batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I do on my phone on brew day is the brix-&gt;SG conversions and timers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12442" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T00:43:27.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16014" CreationDate="2015-09-02T04:05:47.660" Score="2" ViewCount="870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started a saison 3 days ago, and the recipe called for 3.5 oz of dextrose in addition to the grains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The batch is a 1 gallon batch and the recipe also called for 1.6 lbs of 2-row and 6.5 oz rye. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it too late to add the sugar now, 3 days into primary fermentation? Of course I would make sure everything is sterile and would at the sugar dissolved in a couple ounces of water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9656" LastEditorUserId="9656" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T05:40:10.033" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T05:49:55.210" Title="Forgot to add fermentable sugar" Tags="|primary-fermentation|sugar|late-addition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16013" CreationDate="2015-09-02T05:49:55.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not too late to add the missing sugar. Just boil it in a small amount of water, but be sure not to burn it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to use just a few ounces of water to avoid diluting the beer (or over filling the bottle?), so boiling on a stove will be tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the absolute minimum amount of water, you could try dissolving and sanitizing the sugar in a pressure cooker. The solubility is just over 90%, and if I'm remembering chemistry right you could dissolve that in about 10ml of water, giving about 100ml of thick syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T05:49:55.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16008" CreationDate="2015-09-02T07:15:30.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For BJCP Info, I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ru.orangesoftware.bjcp2015&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP 2015&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beersmith (&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=beersmithllc.beersmith.beersmith2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lite&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.beersmith.beersmith2full&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;full&lt;/a&gt;) is a good tool (but I tend to do everything on the PC, so I do not use the app that much). The app allows for recipe formulation, logs and timers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.brewtimer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Timer&lt;/a&gt; is a life saver for letting you know when to do what. Easy to configure. The pre-warning function is one of the best features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cvpad.mobile.android.wt.unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CvPad&lt;/a&gt;, for all your conversion needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T07:15:30.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15317" CreationDate="2015-09-02T15:00:58.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How are you cooling the wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take too long to cool your wort after adding hops at the end of the boil, the high temperature of the wort may still allow isomerization, which would diminish the aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3282" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T15:00:58.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-02T15:32:09.217" Score="7" ViewCount="3765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am obsessed with the thick body, sweet style stouts (Milk Stouts, Russian Imperial Stouts Bourbon Barrel Stouts, etc.), think Dragon's Milk, Old Rasputin, Lakewood's Temptress. While I have attempted to brew my own a handful of times, they always come out with thin and light bodied, which I am NOT a fan of. I thought Maltodextrin would be the golden ticket and tried adding it with priming sugar during racking, but the brew is still too thin for my liking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am brewing all grain with a 10 gal capacity. Any suggestions? Please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12611" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T12:07:36.827" Title="Any suggestions for getting a thick (almost chewy) body and mouthfeel when brewing a Milk Stout?" Tags="|all-grain|stout|imperial|body|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15992" CreationDate="2015-09-02T18:11:39.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation is done or perhaps stuck when the specific gravity remains unchanged for a few days. Sometimes a fermentation will seem to stall but then pick back up. The amount of bubbling through the airlock is not a great indicator of fermentation completion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1990" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T18:11:39.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16017" CreationDate="2015-09-03T05:48:25.090" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some things I can think of to increase body:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Milk stouts use lactose, or milk sugar, to increase perceived body and sweetness. Lactose is unfermentable by yeast and so passes to the finished beer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dextrin malt (CaraPils, CaraFoam) will impart a nice bit of body without adding crystal-malt-flavor (something I don't like in stouts).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash high. Try 156°+ for a single-infusion mash. This will favor creation of dextrins, which can increase body, over fermentable extract.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheat, raw or malted, can add body-increasing proteins to wort and beer. Oats contribute a characteristic fullness. Raw barley (usually flaked) could be good too. Experiment with some different grains.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try upping the ABV. Alcohol can boost the perceived body. Just make sure to condition longer to take the edge off. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T05:48:25.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-03T13:08:35.247" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been making Beer and Wine for quite some time and am familiar with the processes and am pleased with my results.  I have really taking a shine to hard cider, I made a batch last year using BA-11 yeast, adding only yeast nutrient and pectin enzyme to the raw cider.  Results are excellent IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, I just started a 3 gallon batch in my large mouth 6 1/2 gallon primary. Usually I treat it like wine, transfer to a secondary, clear, rack, top off and then after a few months prime and bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In light of this, can I treat this like beer?  That is, ferment, give it about two weeks to clear in the primary, then rack onto the priming solution and bottle, allowing it to age in the bottle for few months before consuming?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;All in all I'm trying to speed up the process from treating it like wine and more like a beer process.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T03:54:49.413" Title="Cider - Process Question" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-03T19:14:07.740" Score="2" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between Trub and Lees?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only heard about lees in regards to wine, i.e. the leftovers in the bottle. Note, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lees_(fermentation)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia says&lt;/a&gt; Lees is not only leftover grape bits, but also dead yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OTH, Trub is the leftovers after a homebrew boil. I've also heard the settled yeast after bottle conditioning called trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the bottle conditioning 'trub' also be called 'lees'? Is there a technical difference? Is there an etymological difference? (I realize that last question might be better fit for the ELL or English stacks, please advise)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T07:49:07.257" Title="Trub versus Lees" Tags="|trub|lees|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16006" CreationDate="2015-09-04T06:00:16.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started homebrewing with a 1 gallon kit, and I've done several all grain batches with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For scaling down a five gallon recipe, you are correct in just dividing everything by five. However, specialty grains and hops that are only small quantities and the five gallon recipe may not come through as strong in the one gallon batch, so you may need more than 1/5 of the original amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sparging, I use a colander and mesh bag. I steep the grains in the bag, then when they are done I take them out and put them in the colander over the pot (I use the same pot for steeping and boiling to keep things simple). To sparge, I pour hot water over the grains to increase amount of water in the boil and to get as much sugar out of the grains as I can. Adding water to the boil at that point gets me close to a gallon after the boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that's helped me the most to get better at brewing is to brew. So try a batch and learn what works for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9656" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T06:00:16.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2015-09-04T18:13:20.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a co-founder of &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewgr.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewgr.com&lt;/a&gt;, so I am biased, but with a continually growing user base and recipe list, I feel it should be listed here as well.  I feel Brewgr is a good option for brewers because it focuses on simplicity and provides a clean interface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Brewgr is now open source software, so if you're a developer and want to make it better, you can, and we'll push your changes out to the live site so everyone can benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T18:13:20.433" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-09-04T18:13:20.433" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-04T18:43:30.543" Score="6" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the BIAB method.  My keggle has a side drain valve with a pickup tube going to the bottom.  After the boil, I get gobs of fine material coming through my counter-flow chiller into the fermenter. It must be mostly fine crush flour leaking out of the brew bag during the mash (I use hop sacks in the boil). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought some #60 screen (250 micron) and did a shake test on my grain to see what is in there. It looks like maybe 5-10% of the crush is fine enough to go through the screen and my brew bag since they are about the same mesh size. The bag drains like a champ when I pull it, so I don't really want to change to muslin or something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question for the group: Is there a disadvantage to screening my grain to remove the flour before mashing? Obviously I have to make up for missing material in the grain bill, but the $3 more is worth it considering the hassle I seem to have with excess trub and chiller clogs at the end of the run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12605" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T20:41:39.777" Title="Is there a disadvantage to screening the flour out of my grain before mashing with BIAB?" Tags="|filtering|biab|trub|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16024" CreationDate="2015-09-04T20:41:39.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Is there a disadvantage to screening my grain to remove the flour before mashing?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from your point about losing extract (the most important thing, really), a few things I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fine flour disproportionately represents potential extract, by weight. &lt;em&gt;&quot;Fine grits and flour [...] yield some 50-60 % of the weight of milled malt but 80-90% of the extract&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=KxZJ6Fs2ps4C&amp;amp;pg=PA3&amp;amp;dq=brewing&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0CCMQ6AEwAWoVChMIqZiLnY7exwIVwjQ-Ch2HxgCe#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=brewing&amp;amp;f=false&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;). So if you lose 7% by weight in fine flour by sieving it, you'd have to add &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; than 7% more grain to get the same OG. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fine milling of husks and under-modified parts of the malt increase extraction of tannins (which can impart astringency) and beta-glucans (which can screw with wort separation), respectively. Quite the opposite of a disadvantage, it might actually make for a cleaner beer and a more fluid process. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing the ratio of fine flour (mostly starch) to husk by sieving may alter the balance of flavors in the resulting wort, favoring more husk-y flavors per unit of extract.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say try it, see if it makes a difference, and if it makes your process easier and still makes good beer, that's all that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T20:41:39.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1710" CreationDate="2015-09-05T02:02:51.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found you can give a beer distinct differences in flavor by these happy mixups. The messup might end up incorporated in your recipe for that beer from then on because you or anyone else who tried it loved the difference in taste! Gotta love character!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12623" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T02:02:51.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16017" CreationDate="2015-09-05T02:20:54.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Franklin P Combs and Atron Seige are completely correct with their suggestions. Google Brewers Best Milk Stout recipe. It's my favorite extract recipe and is nice and thick. It also uses lactose and maltodextrin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ingredients for Brewer's Best Milk Stout are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Fermentables&#xA;  3.3 lb. Special Dark LME&#xA;  3.3 lb. Light LME&#xA;  .5 lb. Lactose&#xA;  .5 lb. Maltodextrin&#xA;&#xA;Specialty Grains&#xA;  8 oz. Caramel 120L&#xA;  4 oz. Roasted Barley&#xA;  4 oz. Dark Chocolate&#xA;&#xA;Hops&#xA;  .5 oz. GR Magnum&#xA;  .5 oz. Cluster&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12623" LastEditorUserId="12442" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T12:07:36.827" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T12:07:36.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15992" CreationDate="2015-09-05T02:36:34.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a same problem when I first started brewing. My starter kit came with one of those cheap plastic s-shaped airlocks.I got little if any bubbling through it. I threw it out and bought one of the cup style ones and never had the problem after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12623" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T02:36:34.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-06T02:17:57.587" Score="4" ViewCount="827" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time extract brewer here - I brewed today using a kit with 6.75 lbs of extract and 1 lb of corn sugar. I mistakenly added the corn sugar after adding the extract to 3 gallons of water at the start of the boil. I followed the rest of the receipt: first hops for 60 minutes, then aroma hops at the end of the boil. I cooled the wort and transferred it to a 6.5 gal carboy, added tap water to reach 5 gallons, and pitched the liquid yeast. Curious what the impact is of boiling the sugar for 60 minutes instead of the 10 minutes the recipe called for.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12626" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T14:57:29.667" Title="Oops - I added corn sugar at the start of boil, recipe said &quot;add at 10 minutes to go.&quot;" Tags="|first-time-brewer|mistakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-06T05:52:11.593" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I decided to throw some ingrediants together for my first recipe! The recipe is an extract American IPA I was wondering if some of you guys could give me advice on what to add or get rid of before I brew it. If you could help it would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;American IPA&#xA;Extract (5.00 gal) ABV: 5.47 %&#xA;OG: 1.056 SG FG: 1.015 SG&#xA;IBUs: 67.7 IBUs Color: 12.3 SRM&#xA;By: &#xA;Ingredients&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 lb 8.0 oz - Vienna Malt&#xA;Steep prior to boil (14.3%) - 3.5 SRM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 lb - Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L&#xA;Steep prior to boil (9.5%) - 20.0 SRM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 lb - Amber Liquid Extract&#xA;Boil (47.6%) - 12.5 SRM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 lb - Amber Dry Extract&#xA;Boil (28.6%) - 12.5 SRM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.00 oz - Simcoe&#xA;Boil 60 min (40.2 IBUs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.50 oz - Summit&#xA;Boil 30 min (20.2 IBUs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.00 oz - Citra&#xA;Boil 5 min (7.4 IBUs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.50 oz - Summit&#xA;Boil 0 min (0.0 IBUs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 pkg - American Ale II&#xA;Wyeast Labs #1272&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12627" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T20:50:34.197" Title="First time making a recipe!" Tags="|extract|ipa|recipe-formulation|americanipa|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16030" CreationDate="2015-09-06T13:33:39.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't make a difference, unless you were doing a fairly high gravity beer. The additional solids could affect hop utilization as &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7343/does-wort-gravity-affect-hop-utilization&quot;&gt;noted here&lt;/a&gt; and reduce the bitterness, but it wouldn't &quot;ruin&quot; your beer either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For consistency, if it comes out tasting great you should note in your brew log that you added the sugar at the start of boil, so if you remake the recipe you repeat the same process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12442" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T13:33:39.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4035" CreationDate="2015-09-06T15:49:13.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes spent hops and grain can be composted and they are good.  I would highly recommend however that if you have a dog that you DO NOT compost your spent hops.  Hops are poisonous to dogs which I unfortunately found out the hard way after my 17 month old Doberman puppy ingested some of my spent hops in my yard and died 6 hours later.  We took her to the Vet but there was nothing we could have done and she died of Malignant Hyperthermia which is a rapid rise of body temperature which then caused a heart attack.  So BE CAREFUL!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12628" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T15:49:13.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-06T18:32:42.223" Score="3" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on brewing an Imperial Stout and using a liquid yeast (WLP-007). Beer Smith is telling me that I need about 300bn yeast cells. However, it says I might get 180bn. I'm usually not a stickler for details but this is a big enough difference that it worries me. I bought 2 packs of the liquid yeast and made a starter (rougly 0.75L). Beer Smith says I should roughly have a 1.6L starter (I only have room for 1 liter though...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be safe for me to pitch this yeast on brew day, buy two more vials, do a starter for that, and then pitch the second starter a couple days later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option might be to hold the chilled wort for a day or two, make the right yeast starter, and just pitch the correct amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12630" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T02:46:58.870" Title="Imperial Stout with not enough yeast" Tags="|yeast|stout|imperial|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16021" CreationDate="2015-09-07T07:49:07.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wiki says that trub is German for lees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trub_(brewing)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trub_(brewing)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T07:49:07.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-07T16:56:58.390" Score="4" ViewCount="4580" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mash tun has a good false bottom, in a stainless steel 15 gallon kettle. The false bottom sits almost two inches above the bottom the kettle.  The maker of the equipment, MoreBeer, says to measure the mash water used from the false bottom. Is this overly diluting the wort? Should the space below the false bottom be less?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12632" LastEditorUserId="6534" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T11:25:47.310" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T11:25:47.310" Title="dead space in a mash tun" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-07T17:46:44.373" Score="3" ViewCount="1015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was unable to get an O.G. sample from my first batch in the carboy (tried using a long siphon tube with my finger held over one end...), so I'm trying to buy a wine thief to take final gravity, but most seem too short for a 5 gal batch in a 6.5 gal carboy. I saw homebrewsupply.com sells a simple, $5 plastic baster. Any reason why this isn't a good solution? Or suggestions for finding a wine thief that's more than 12 inches long?  Thanks for helping a new brewer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12626" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T20:07:02.560" Title="Wine Thief or a simpler way to sample wort from a carboy?" Tags="|equipment|first-time-brewer|measurements|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16037" CreationDate="2015-09-07T18:43:15.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a dedicated, sanitized plastic baster to retrieve samples.  If it's too short, all you need to do is tilt your fermenter a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T18:43:15.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16055" CreationDate="2015-09-08T01:12:56.350" Score="2" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of performing a cereal mash which can be done as so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mill rice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix 10-15% malted barley to provide a fluid mash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise temp to 158F for 30 minutes &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil for 15-20 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add to main mash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cook rice as normal in rice cooker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add to main mash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that both steps are processes are basically the same. The rice will be gelatinized in either method because boiling is involved. In a cereal mash one of the differences is that malted barley is added to the very finely ground rice so you don't produce a very thick easily burned pudding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I might see less efficiency using a rice cooker since I haven't ground up my rice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T19:06:09.287" Title="Brewing with rice. Rice cooker vs Cereal Mash?" Tags="|brewing|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16031" CreationDate="2015-09-08T01:26:21.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd get rid of everything where you don't know why it's in the recipe. As a beginning brewer, I try to keep my ingredients to a bare minimum (1 lme/dme, 1 steeping grain, 1 hop, 1 yeast) when making my own recipes (ok, I made a triple-hop ale but the hops I stole from Duvel so that doesn't count). Also, I &quot;develop&quot; my recipes on a site with a built-in calculator (I use Brewer's Friend) which can sort of give a rough indication whether my beer is in style. I find that very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;KISS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12635" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T01:26:21.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16039" CreationDate="2015-09-08T02:38:06.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make a rice porridge in the rice cooker that will make the rice into a thick paste (with some very soft grains still floating around). Add extra water to the rice cooker (maybe double the usual amount?), let it boil for a few minutes and then turn down the power (the rice cooker would try to boil all the liquid away if you let it). Then wait a while until you have the consistency you want, add water if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T02:38:06.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16034" CreationDate="2015-09-08T05:10:50.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I trust BeerSmith, I also recommend running your calculations through &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr Malty&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would not be too worried. You have a healthy starter and a good number of yeast. I brewed a RIS with a single packet of US-05! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really worried and pressed for time, maybe re-hydrate a packet of US-05 on the side, add it to your starter, give it an hour or two to say hi to the other yeast and then let them start working on the wort. Dry yeast adds approx 110bn cells per 11g packet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T05:10:50.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16036" CreationDate="2015-09-08T05:17:22.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to take into consideration how much wort is lost to the dead space. That is very important (otherwise you will always end up with less wort than expected in your kettle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you use software or do some calculation, you will enter the loss to the dead space and the calculation will indicate how much water you need in the mash to still achieve the correct amount of wort to the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calculation will also show your OG. You may need to increase your amount of base grains to obtain the same OG. This will counter the &quot;dilution&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A safety note: DO NOT TILT YOUR MASHTUN TO GET THE LAST BIT OF WORT OUT! Yes, it sounds like you might be saving a bit of wort, but it is not worth the danger of having hot spent grains splash over you, or the amount of cleaning that you will need to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T05:17:22.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16036" CreationDate="2015-09-08T13:05:59.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I was going to make this a comment, but it ended up pretty long and there wasn't space...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there is often confusion here over just what &quot;dead space&quot; means. Most brew software assumes all liquid under the false bottom is not returned to the kettle, but that isn't always true depending on your equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my particular setup, I need 1/2 gal of water to fill the space under my false bottom (if I put 1/2 gal of water in my mash tun, then the grains would not get wet), however I also have a dip tube under the false bottom that sucks the wort off the base of the container, so the &lt;em&gt;loss&lt;/em&gt; of wort is almost 0. What I do, and I'm not sure if this is &quot;correct&quot; is to enter 0.1 gal of &quot;dead space&quot; or &quot;loss&quot; in my brew software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then when I calculate my mash strike water at, say, 1.25 qt/lb, I will then add 0.5 gal to that to account for the space under the false bottom. So for 8 lbs of grain I would strike 3gal of water (1.25qt/lb x 8lb = 10qt, 10qt = 2.5gal, 2.5gal + 0.5gal = 3 gal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes this extra .5 gal would dilute the dissolved sugars, but I've yet to find any real info on if that matters all that much. Since some people will use all the way up to 1.5qt/lb of strike water, I figure my 1.25qt/lb + .5gal wouldn't be much different than just using 1.5qt/lb. I'd venture to guess that doing one thing consistently is more important than hitting the mash thickness according to the numbers from a book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12442" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T13:05:59.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15857" CreationDate="2015-09-08T18:41:25.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to drink a lot of beer and recycle the bottles, then Newcastle Brown Ale comes in clear cap-able bottles.&#xA;Thats where my clear bottles come from.&#xA;Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6300" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T18:41:25.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15841" CreationDate="2015-09-09T00:17:52.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that happy and healthy yeast are a critical component to reaching your target S.G.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this all begins with where your O.G. is based on your grain bill and mash temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your S.G. will be determined by the complexity of the sugars that made it to your fermenter, based on the mash schedule used. A slow ramping up of temperatures tends to create a wort with much simpler sugars. The simpler the sugar, the more easily it is consumed by the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different strains of yeast can process different types of sugar. Most ale yeasts tend to stop consuming sugars that are bigger than maltotriose. Brett yeasts by contrast, will consume pretty well any sugar source, including the lignin that makes up wood fibers! French Saison Dupont strains are notorious for indefinitely pausing fermentation at 1.020. So yeast selection is important, such that it matches your wort profile, i.e. lager vs berlinerweisse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, different yeast strains will have different attenuation, this is the degree of completion to which they complete the fermentation. If you look at the supplier's website for the yeast for your next brew, you will see this information listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast you employ will perform best if they are happy and healthy, with reduced stress. It is therefore important to make sure your wort is well aerated, you are starting with a viable and vital yeast culture and that your wort conditions are favourable for the yeast. Variables such as pressure and temperature come into play, and can be used to tailor the yeast towards making clean or estery (aromatic) beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend Recipe Calculator&lt;/a&gt; can help you get started by putting in your recipe and selecting different yeast strains to see where you might end up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T00:17:52.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13295" CreationDate="2015-09-09T00:29:49.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The technique may work, and in theory, provided good process handling, shouldn't pose any issues. Something to consider though is that grain contains on it many organisms, including lactobacillus and enterobacter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without boiling neither of the organisms will be killed, and will also have been given time to grow in the wort during the mash. How well they survive / reproduce the near freezing temperatures is up for experimentation based on each wort I would imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest concern with these two microbes is that lactobacillus has the potential to sour your wort by producing lactic acid. This is actually one, albeit not ideal, method of creating a sour beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enterobacter produces a different acid, butyric acid. This is commonly perceived as baby vomit, or fecal in the final product. If this organism is given the opportunity to entrench itself in your wort, your beer won't be very palatable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T00:29:49.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16036" CreationDate="2015-09-09T02:22:09.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;CodingWithSpike nearly hit the nail on the head: there is no dilution from simply having space under the false bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing is that the outlet (or sometimes a pickup tube) is at the bottom of the mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the sweet wort flows out of the grain bed, it is more dense than the water replacing it. Because the smart brewer is not stirring, tilting or otherwise screwing around in the mash, the sweet wort simply follows gravity to the outlet. More dilute wort comes out later, and finally sparge water with just a bit of sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your mash tun has some big space below the outlet, then you've got a dead space. Your first, sweetest wort will go straight to that spot, and unless you've got a way to stir under the false bottom, it's not going to leave or mix with the thinner wort very much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have a mash tun with the outlet at the side, you should set it up tilted toward the outlet. You'll probably get better recovery than a flat-bottomed mash tun. Just don't move the thing around while the mash is flowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="6534" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T03:28:47.387" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T03:28:47.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16020" CreationDate="2015-09-09T02:26:17.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. Cider is often handled exactly like beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T02:26:17.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16037" CreationDate="2015-09-09T07:22:59.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen large wine thiefs that the hydrometer fits into. Check the big USA home brew sites, I think it was on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T07:22:59.387" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16030" CreationDate="2015-09-09T14:57:29.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glad to hear it turned out well. The only reason to add the sugar towards the end of the boil is to avoid caramelizatiom and maillard reactions. These are more prevalent when using direct heating methods like stove or burner top boils as the heating is concentrated on the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is sometimes done intentionally to give a different flavour profile. Keep brew and tasting notes to see if there's a notable difference if you change it next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T14:57:29.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16056" CreationDate="2015-09-09T15:57:45.833" Score="0" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the CO2 level for a Strong Golden Ale?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each calculator have a different value:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3.3 - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/learn/resources/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2.5-3.2 - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewunited.com/priming_sugar_calculator.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1.9-2.4 - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1.9 -2.4  &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/carbonation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is correct if I use 160.36g of sucrose for 20 liters, 26ºc and 2.9 of CO2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a risk of explode the bottle with this setup? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that a value higher than 8g/liter could explode, and 160.36/20 is 8.018.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12642" LastEditorUserId="12642" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T16:28:34.443" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T03:00:21.453" Title="CO2 for duvel clone - Strong Golden Ale" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|brewing|ale|priming|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16059" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:49:26.663" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last month I made a few saisons at 80°F (27°C), and was able to maintain that temperature with a single fermwrap. Now, for some reason, a single fermwrap is only getting the temperature to 72°F (22°C). I haven't pitched the yeast and its been 48 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured, if one couldn't do it, maybe two of them could, so I wrapped another fermwrap over the first fermwrap. Now I am at work and am wondering if this is a firehazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a RaspberryPi that is supposed to shut the power to the fermwraps off if the temperature exceeds 80°F, but if there is some unknown bug, perhaps the power won't get shut off. The fermentors are inside of a fridge that I've set to 65°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T16:04:51.843" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T16:04:51.843" Title="Is it safe to put two fermwraps on top of each other over a fermentor?" Tags="|saison|safety|fermwrap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16039" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:06:09.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you propose will work.  You can also use Minute Rice, in which case you can just toss it on the mash and not have to precook the rice either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T19:06:09.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16052" CreationDate="2015-09-10T03:18:23.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I routinely use 150g of sucrose for 18-19 liter batches, and rarely have over carbonation. And then, only if I keep the beer in a warm place for a long time. No exploded bottles yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, you should give the yeast plenty of time to flocculate before bottling, and don't open them when warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T03:18:23.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T07:33:16.660" Score="4" ViewCount="557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed on Monday but pitched over 48 hours later on Wednesday, because my temperature control was finicky and I wanted to wait  until the wort hit the proper temperature before pitching. Normally I would wait only 1 minute to 12 hours until pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, before I pitched, I noticed clear signs of fermentation: the white bubbly layer on top of the wort and a bubbling airlock.  I can only presume this is some form of contamination. I pitched the yeast anyway and will hope for the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would like to know the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that my wort started fermenting before I pitched the yeast, does this imply that the beer would have been contaminated even if I had pitched earlier, that my sanitation was poor? Or, is it simply the nature of the beast that wild yeast and other stuff will get in the wort regardless of my sanitation habits, and now they have a 48 hour head start on my yeast strain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was it poor sanitation or is pitching 48 hours a bad idea in general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T11:28:58.540" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T11:28:58.540" Title="I waited 48 hours to pitch and detected fermention prior to pitching" Tags="|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16057" CreationDate="2015-09-10T08:38:50.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;QUICK TIP: Did you check with a hydrometer before you pitched? The golden rule with determining fermentation is &quot;Trust your hydrometer; Almost everything else will lie to you&quot; - Bubbling airlock and foam on the top of the wort can all have other causes, while a drop in specific gravity is only caused by conversion of the sugars in the wort to alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the likelihood here is that you've got some kind of unintended fermentation going on, and there are a couple of possible causes for that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You had a bit of yeast left over unnoticed in you fermentation vessel from a previous brew; They can hide in all sorts of places, be particularly suspicious around taps, since they're very hard to properly sterilise!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) A wild Yeast got in there; When you pitch a big load of brewer's yeast into your wort you give the brewer's yeast a huge headstart in terms of number and viability, so they tend to out-compete the infinitely more fragile wild yeasts and give them no chance; The delay in pitching could have given the wild yeasts the chance to establish themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky, it's 1, and your brew might have a slightly different yeast character, but be ok... If it's 2) then it's a dice roll; You might have discovered that you have an awesome local yeast which creates the next greatest beer... Or you might make a few gallons of vinegar... Wild yeasts are unpredictable at the best of times...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, to answer your question, it's probably more down to late pitching than poor sanitation, but be carefult to clean taps and other hotspots thoroughly in the future...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12648" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T08:38:50.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16054" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:14:40.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt you'll have an issue.  Fermwraps don't get hot enough to auto-ignite anything (It can't even bring water to a boil without melting the plastic), so I doubt anything will catch fire due to the heat of the FermWrap.  If there's an electrical fault somewhere, well that's beyond the scope of this question and forum.  I'm going to guess in most cases, this isn't an issue since these things only draw 40 watts a piece, and most outlets can handle well north of a 1,000 watts before problems can occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be that your FermWrap has reached the end of it's life.  While a solid build, they do wear and tear, and when the primary function is generating heat, it can serve to speed up the wear.  Have you tried just using the second FermWrap instead of doubling up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T18:41:06.123" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T18:41:06.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16057" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:56:36.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although it is possible to get dissolved gasses out of liquids by heating them, making it look like there is fermentation, there really shouldn't be much gas dissolved in a recently boiled wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead I think you have done a 'forced wort test' by delaying your pitch. The test is simply: make wort, don't add yeast, wait until something happens spontaneously. Having visible signs of fermentation in only 48 hours means poor sanitation. What you really want is 4 or 5 days, or longer, before spontaneous fermentation / cloudiness / strange odors happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As The All Powerful mentioned, it could be yeast, which should at least result in drinkable beer. If it's something else, you may want to chuck it. Take a sniff at the airlock: if the smell is questionable, keep the beer; if the smell says 'kill it with fire' you'll know what to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your last question: yes, its poor sanitation and yes, waiting 48 hours is a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T14:56:36.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16034" CreationDate="2015-09-11T02:46:58.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a silly: Yeast will reproduce in your beer as long as there's food. A 1 liter starter from a single vial would have been fine for an ale. You'd want at least double that for a lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, if you're worried, rose the yeast when the fermentation does down, and then keep it over 70°F until primary is over. Siphon to a secondary glass carboy, and wait three to five weeks before bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12488" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T02:46:58.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16052" CreationDate="2015-09-11T03:00:21.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The calculators are someone's idea of what the style should be. Each brewery will do something different depending on tradition, marketing, and what they think their customers like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are your only customer. What do you like? High carbonation, or low carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like low carbonation. I never do more than 2 volumes of CO2. For a 19L batch at room temperature, I'd use 64 grams of cane sugar, no more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12488" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T03:00:21.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16433" CreationDate="2015-09-12T08:00:52.240" Score="3" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a sparkling elderflower wine. It's in a 25l plastic bucket with a trap. The first fermentation went well. I racked it, added sulphites (Campden tabs), added fining, left for a couple of months. At this point the wine smelled great, but had a bitter aftertaste (not acidic), probably a bacterial effect, so I racked again and filtered, giving me a nice clear wine that tasted fine, with an alcolohol content of about 6.4%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading various articles on sparkling wine making, I added more Campden tabs (a smaller amount) to ensure there were no more bacteria and left it for 2 days for it to gas out. Then I added yeast and a sugar solution for the secondary fermentation and bottled it. Now I'm finding that the fermentation is stuck - after a week, there is nothing happening in the bottles, no gas production at all. I've read that sulphites should be gone within a day or two, so it's OK to use them for sparkling wines if they are given time. I've also read that though sulphites are often used to 'kill' yeasts, they don't apparently kill them, just slow them down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my second fermentation dead? Or do I just need to give it more time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the posted answers suggested it might, this did eventually kick off and it'a been a success overall. I'm still getting a slight bitter aftertaste, so this year I'll get the sulphites in earlier to make sure I kill off any bacteria before they get a chance to take hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T05:32:54.620" Title="Stuck second fermentation - suphites to blame?" Tags="|wine|secondary-fermentation|stuck-fermentation|campden|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16073" CreationDate="2015-09-11T22:26:42.187" Score="0" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make mead, but lack any real equipment/skill. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I have done &quot;wine&quot; and &quot;mead&quot; before, but only at the &quot;hooch&quot; level of quality and control.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; All I have access to is a siphon tube and ~2L plastic bottles. There is a store that sells brewing equipment, but I didn't think I cared much for clearing my wine or stopping the yeast from producing since I do not trust the products that well. This may be an argument from ignorance though so bear with me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My idea was to:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use 12oz of honey, 1 tablespoon of cinnamon, 1/2 of orange and some orange zest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sanitize equipment(2L bottles) via antibacterial soap and/or rubbing alcohol. Let dry upside down, rinse several times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put ingredients into 2L bottle, fill 4/5ths the way full with water, shake to mix.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add 1 packet of bread yeast, shake to mix.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;close cap until almost shut to allow for airflow for C02 out of the bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cover cap with rubber glove, tied at base to prevent contaminants from dust, and to allow for determination of fermentation via C02 production.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait 3 weeks, use sterilized siphon filter off from top of bottle my &quot;mead&quot;, into new sterile container. Cap tight, refrigerate?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;enjoy????&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the only thing i am concerned about is caping the bottle tight after I re-bottle it, for if fermentation is still active, it could cause a bursting of the bottle. I could try and do SG readings with a hydrometer I  have, but I feel given my lack of equipment( no graduated cylinder ), exposing my product to air to test multiple times would be folly and pointless. &lt;strong&gt;Should I attempt to degass in any way, and if so how would I given my lack of equipment/skill?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12336" OwnerDisplayName="Ro Siv" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T02:08:38.803" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T15:15:07.520" Title="Will this recipe make drinkable mead?" Tags="|equipment|mead|process|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:42:08.327" Score="2" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making cider and I dont have the space to brew inside so I'm brewing outside.  It draws a lot of attention from bugs, particularly yellow jackets.  I have it in a sealed container, so there's no risk of contamination from bugs or bacteria.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dont want to get stung when I check on my brew, there are always at least 20 yellow jackets around my brew.  I tried moving it multiple times, but they always manage to find it.  Has anybody else experienced this problem?  How would I go about stopping the yellow jackets from swarming around the brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12653" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T16:10:10.123" Title="How to keep bugs away?" Tags="|beer|cider|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9443" CreationDate="2015-09-12T22:22:26.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once the grain has been soaked and drained (usually 3x), and all the good stuff pulled out and separated into a liquid that is called the 'Wort', that excess grain is called the 'draff' and has proteins. They mix it will cattle feed and sell it to farmers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a great article I found on all the extra bits from a distillery. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://peakperspective.com/whisky-wise/whisky-co-products-the-extra-bits-bobs-part-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://peakperspective.com/whisky-wise/whisky-co-products-the-extra-bits-bobs-part-1/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12655" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T22:22:26.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16066" CreationDate="2015-09-13T02:35:06.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured out a solution.  I sprayed insecticide around the bucket that I am brewing in.  It seems to have deterred the yellow jackets from swarming around my brew.  I was hoping for a natural solution as I don't like harming the grass&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12653" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T02:35:06.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16066" CreationDate="2015-09-13T11:50:48.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used cinnamon powder to repel wasps from my balcony and it worked. You could also try this. Since your bucket is outside, you'll probably need to apply it regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12221" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T11:50:48.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16070" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-13T15:48:08.890" Score="1" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a some sanitizer from gallon jug mixed up in the bucket to ferment with wine kit did I destroy it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12657" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T11:30:24.350" Title="sanitizer about one quart of mix with water went into fermentor with wine kit .what should i do if anything" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-13T23:55:49.310" Score="1" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to bottle cocktails in small glass bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking online and most smaller bottles are either very expensive or have extremely pricy shipping (in most all cases, it comes to around $45/24 bottles (e.g. Amazon &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0089WIAP8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;has them&lt;/a&gt; for $46/24, Shore Container &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shorecontainer.com/187mlflintmini-champagneflatbottom.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;has them&lt;/a&gt; for $15 + $28 shipping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option is to buy something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B001XUO8AY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fever Tree tonic water&lt;/a&gt;, drink that, then reuse the bottles. I could also buy a 24 pack of Coronitas and reuse those bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on a source for bottles I could buy in San Francisco, a cheaper option online, or ideas for alternative sources of bottles like the Fever Tree/Coronitas idea? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12660" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T00:31:45.207" Title="Where can I get small glass bottles in San Francisco?" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16064" CreationDate="2015-09-14T02:25:48.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To safely bottle the mead, use a plastic soda bottle. These bottles seem to be very strong: I know you can play american-style football with one for a couple hours without a problem, until you open it. Then the soda will shoot out quite far. So you risk losing your mead it if becomes too pressurized. On the positive side, you can squeeze the bottle with your hand to estimate the pressure inside, and vent it excess pressure by loosening the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other suggestions:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't use soap to clean your equipment. Rubbing alcohol should be&lt;br&gt;&#xA;rinsed thoroughly: with very hot water, vodka or sanitizer, otherwise&#xA;you are not sanitizing anything.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your brewing shop sells wine yeast, use that instead of bread&lt;br&gt;&#xA;yeast. Don't use a whole packet, 1/10th of a packet should be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nothing needs to be degassed, any oxygen will be consumed by the&lt;br&gt;&#xA;yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't bother using the hydrometer on a 2 liter batch, you'll have to &#xA;throw away about 100ml just to take a measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T02:25:48.037" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16066" CreationDate="2015-09-14T11:25:28.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered an ultraviolet electric wasp killer like these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B00JER3I22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://amzn.com/B00JER3I22&lt;/a&gt; (just an example... Not pushing that model in particular)  - No chemicals, just a bit of electricity... Set them up and the wasps are attracted to the UV light, before getting electrocuted, and will bother you no more - It's what they use in professional kitchens to keep bugs at bay!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12648" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T11:25:28.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T15:51:17.037" Score="2" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mead (in the UK at least) seems to generally be made as a wine, typically flat around 12% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in making more of a beer/ale type drink... carbonated, around 5% ABV, by fermenting honey (not adding honey to a regular ale). Something you can quaff a frothy pint of, basically!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it simply a case of dividing the amount of honey I use by a third to a half, and priming my bottles as I would to bottle-ferment an ale? Or would this come out horrible? I saw a suggestion it might taste very 'thin' and wondered what I might add as well as pure honey... maybe some treacle/molasses for instance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T09:03:08.027" Title="How to make a mead beer/ale" Tags="|first-time-brewer|mead|priming|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16066" CreationDate="2015-09-14T16:10:10.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could employ wasp traps - rather than try to deter the wasps, just catch them. In theory, it will reduce the number because those trapped cannot return to the nest and tell their friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the wasps &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; find your cider more attractive than the contents of the traps. Although if so, use some of your cider &lt;em&gt;as&lt;/em&gt; bait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T16:10:10.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16077" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T16:15:33.840" Score="1" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are bottling still, or force carbonating, you can presumably kill the yeast and then add sugar/syrup/honey/fruit juice to sweeten (though I don't know how).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you are bottle-fermenting then adding additional sugar will merely drive up the alcohol until a)the sugar is all gone b)the alcohol is so high it kills the yeast c)things go BANG&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any easy way around this problem, or it it an inherent limitation of bottle-fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T15:54:52.650" Title="Is there any way to make a bottle-fermented beer/cider sweeter?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|sweetness|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16077" CreationDate="2015-09-14T18:58:30.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's an inherent limitation.  But you can always sweeten in the glass if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T18:58:30.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2015-09-14T22:47:29.417" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love sorachi ace&#xA;Specially in saison&#xA;Very lemony. Very aromatic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12663" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T22:47:29.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16077" CreationDate="2015-09-15T07:33:16.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottle fermentation? That sounds like option C... Did you mean bottle conditioning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can kill yeast by adding potassium sorbate or by pasturising the beer/cider. Then you can add whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR You can also use sugars that yeast cannot eat, like lactose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T07:33:16.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16075" CreationDate="2015-09-15T09:03:08.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2015_Guidelines_Mead.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP Mead Guidelines&lt;/a&gt; and they mention a Hydromel with has a starting ABV of 3.5% ABV. From a quick glance it appears that you can make most of the styles in this &quot;light&quot; version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure that you can make great meads with low ABVs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gotmead.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GotMead&lt;/a&gt; site/forums. I am sure there is more info there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T09:03:08.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16077" CreationDate="2015-09-15T10:44:22.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put in an unfermentable sugar prior to carbonating, like lactose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or sweeten it, carbonate in the the bottle and then pasteurize in a dishwasher to kill the yeast before it consumes all the sugars.  Obviously you'd need to do this in glass bottles and it the right temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, the single time I've made bottle carbonated cider I was perfectly happy sweetening it in the glass with some apple juice.  Freaking awesome to drink on a hot day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12176" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T10:44:22.467" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16084" CreationDate="2015-09-15T16:33:55.107" Score="3" ViewCount="1973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently fermented a batch of beer (5 gallons) in a 7gal carboy, which left about 2 gallons of space above (assuming you filled it all the way to the top). I also have a 5gal carboy, but that would be 5 gallons if I filled it all the way to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, if I am going to brew 5 gallons of beer, how much head space should there be? Here are the options I see,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill up the 5gal carboy, and leave a little bit of space in the top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a 6gal carboy, and fill it up to 5 gallons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the 7gal carboy, and fill it up to 5 gallons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the 6 or 7 gallon carboys, and fill it up over 5 gallons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2288" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T13:52:52.900" Title="Best size carboy for brewing beer?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16083" CreationDate="2015-09-15T17:37:34.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually do 4/5gl in a 6gl carboy, not as a particular matter of &quot;best&quot;, but just of convenience and what I acquired over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You definitely want some headspace, if only to keep krausen under control and minimize the amount of blowoff you have to redirect somewhere. For more &quot;productive&quot; yeasts, I'll still use a blow-off tube, but if I under-collect and/or use a less krausen-y yeast, I often don't need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For primary, 5gl in a 7gl carboy would probably be just fine, too; you're easily going to fill and purge that much headspace with CO₂ in the course of a normal primary ferment. If you're doing any sort of secondary or aging is really when having too much headspace comes into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T17:37:34.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16083" CreationDate="2015-09-15T17:52:15.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't want to fill a carboy all the way up to the top because the foam that is produced during the initial active phase of fermentation could get into the air trap reducing its effectiveness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently done a couple of batches with about 3.5 gallons of wort in a 5-gallon carboy and they have been some of the best beer I have tasted. So leaving a fair bit of room at the top of the carboy does not seem to have a detrimental effect on the beer. Initially the space is filled with air but that is useful to get the yeast to start reproducing and eating the sugars. Soon that space will get filled with carbon dioxide and then it'll be fine for the rest of the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another minor point is that when you rack the beer from the carboy into the keg, bottles or a secondary fermentation vessel there will be a circle of grunge left on the side of the carboy where the top of the wort was. It's easier to clean this with a large bottle brush if it is not so close to the top of the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So all in all I would go with option 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12664" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T17:52:15.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T20:01:31.403" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a keg of witbier for a wedding, and when I tasted it initially, as well as at the wedding, I did not notice a prominent DMS note. I am now drinking a glass and the DMS is nearly overwhelming. This is the very last bit of a keg that was kept warm for a day or so after the wedding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does exposure to oxygen increase the presence of DMS? The keg was dispensed with CO2, but there is always some O2 picked up on transfer, I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T10:19:52.940" Title="Why might DMS become more apparent toward the end of a keg?" Tags="|dms|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16091" CreationDate="2015-09-15T20:08:26.693" Score="2" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;When preparing to bottle your beer after primary fermentation, most instructions call for adding sugar or corn sugar to kick-off the second fermentation in the bottle and carbonate the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen one instruction however that advises rather to keep about 1.5L of wort before it was pitched in the refrigerator, and simply add this to the beer prior to bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find anywhere a kind of pros/cons analysis to this. What is the best approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12665" LastActivityDate="2017-04-15T14:41:40.363" Title="When bottling, is it better to use corn sugar or saved wort?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|carbonation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16087" CreationDate="2015-09-15T20:18:26.097" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having done both, I can tell you that sugar (corn or table, doesn't matter) is the way to go.  It's easy reliable and tasteless.  Priming with gyle (the name for what you propose) is uncertain and offers no advantage to your beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T20:18:26.097" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T20:26:20.273" Score="5" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;it is hard to find beer yeast where I live. I was wondering if it is possible to just buy a bottle of good beer and use as yeast after bringing it to 25C temperature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12666" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T19:30:25.673" Title="no brew shop here. use some warm beer as yeast?" Tags="|beer|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16089" CreationDate="2015-09-15T21:24:06.257" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes (sort of... You can't just warm the bottle up and chuck it in there... It's a little more complicated than that...) but you will need to buy a good quality, bottle conditioned beer (look for sediment in the bottom of the bottle, or the words &quot;bottle conditioned&quot; on the label... Or ask your beer shop...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, most commercial brewers (particularly the big breweries) will pasteurise and/or centrifuge their beers to remove the yeast from them, and then pressurise with CO2 when bottling; it results in a clearer beer and a more predictable product, but means that there's no yeast to harvest from the bottle...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bottle conditioned beer will still have active yeast, and can be harvested following the procedures in this article: &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewmanual.com/harvesting-yeast-from-bottles/&quot;&gt;http://homebrewmanual.com/harvesting-yeast-from-bottles/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12648" LastEditorUserId="12648" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T21:37:55.607" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T21:37:55.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16087" CreationDate="2015-09-15T22:14:10.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using sugar is easier. There is no risk that you have too much gyle or too little. You can just buy extra sugar and be on the safe side. Gyle needs to be saved in sterile containers (I usually fill a few bottles with gyle while it's still boiling hot, which does the trick) and then kept in the fridge. You can just keep the sugar on the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can end up with flat beer or bottle bombs either way; make sure to use the right amount of gyle or sugar. Again, sugar is easier here, cause you will need to know the OG of the gyle and the FG of the beer to figure out how much to use. Then again, using 10 to 20% as a rule of thumb may work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, when bottling I always use gyle; mostly because the first brewing books I read mentioned only that. Adding sugar to beer still seems weird to me anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T22:14:10.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16089" CreationDate="2015-09-16T02:06:28.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get hold of some Coopers Pale Ale or Coopers Sparkling Ale (both Australian beers) you can easily harvest yeast from them.  They both have a nice layer of sediment at the bottom.  Pour off the top part of the beer (and drink), put the rest (plus the sediment) into a DME starter, wait a few days and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12176" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T02:06:28.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16087" CreationDate="2015-09-16T03:32:49.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use sugar, and use a calculator &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/learn/resources/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like Northern Brewer's&lt;/a&gt; to calculate the proper amount to avoid gushers or bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T03:32:49.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16098" CreationDate="2015-09-16T08:13:59.270" Score="3" ViewCount="795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Have some old hops I was thinking about using in a recipe. The hops were stored in the attic/in my car/under my bed. They are a couple of years old (2 I think?) but smell alright. Do you think it's safe to use or should I just buy new? Hops were originally used to stabilize beer and I imagine are pretty robust. The hops still smell good.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3239" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T09:23:57.780" Title="Old Hops; Buy fresh or use leftovers?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-16T09:43:42.557" Score="1" ViewCount="5938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to experiment making a low-alcohol mead (i.e. under 8% ABV). In terms of buying a sachet of yeast I can see standard beer/cider/wine variants and obviously for brewing there are loads of special variants. But which would be most suitable for mead (and why)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And - how critical is it? Would any standard brewing yeast work OK or are there some types which would not be recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastEditorUserId="12662" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T15:21:55.227" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T13:44:03.420" Title="What type of yeast to use for a low ABV mead?" Tags="|yeast|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16096" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-16T11:29:26.213" Score="1" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I am going to bottle my brew tomorrow which has been left fermenting for 6 months. It is as flat as water will I need to put more priming sugar in the bottles for it to carbonat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12670" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T09:16:27.137" Title="Does old fermented beer need more priming in the bottle" Tags="|beer|fermentation|bottling|priming|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16094" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:14:10.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what kind of recipe you are thinking of. For example, some sour beers (lambics) specifically call for old, stale hops. On the other hand if you're hoping to make a bright and citrus-y hop-centric beer (e.g. IPA) this would really not be a good choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They may smell alright as they are, but it might help to make a tea to see what flavors the actual brewing process will bring out. Simply pour some boiling water over a few hops, let steep for a moment and assess the taste and smell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops also lose their bittering quality over time, increasingly so if improperly stored (hot, exposed to air, etc). This is a varietal trait, too, with some varieties storing very well and some storing very poorly. So you probably won't get the expected full amount of bitterness that you would have were they fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety-wise, you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be ok, as long as they never got wet. If there's weird stuff growing, definitely toss them. But provided a dry environment they should at least be safe, especially going into the boil (you might not want to use them for dry-hopping to be cautious).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me it sounds like they're not going to be in great shape given where they were stored, their age, and the fact that (I assume, since you can smell them) they're open, but there's really nothing to keep you from using them as long as you approve of the taste and smell (and there's no mold or anything). Just don't expect too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T15:14:10.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16095" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:14:46.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp001-california-ale-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; for a hydromel before with some success. Since it has a fairly neutral flavor and is listed on White Labs' site as being good for honey ales, I figured it would do well with mead. It's also available at most homebrew shops. It may have a higher nutrient requirement, though, since it's intended for beer. As for ABV, that linked fact page says it is &quot;high,&quot; which &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/faq/beer-professional/alcohol-tolerance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs indicates as being 10% - 15%&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=128&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast 1388 Belgian Strong Ale&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; makes an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=429241&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;outstanding mead&lt;/a&gt; pretty quickly at all ABV's (up to 19%, if you baby it enough), and is yeast used in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/brays-one-month-mead/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BOMM (Bray's One Month Mead)&lt;/a&gt; (I know, there are two BOMM links there, but it's worth it.). It's also one of the few yeasts that seems to be a great fit across all styles. It can be hard to find, so I typically purchase it from the Northern Brewer's website. I mostly use it for regular strength meads (12% - 15%), so it will have no problem getting you to 8%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, I've seen &lt;strong&gt;Lalvin EC-1118&lt;/strong&gt; (a champagne yeast with neutral flavors; good to 18%) and &lt;strong&gt;Lalvin K1-V1116&lt;/strong&gt; (lots of esters, good to 18%, treats honey well) both used successfully in hydromel recipes (and a lot of mead recipes, in general). &lt;strong&gt;DV10&lt;/strong&gt;, another champagne yeast, might be also good candidate, but I haven't personally tried it. EC-1118 and K1-V116 are pretty widely available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, if the yeast makes a good mead, it should make a good hydromel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of yeasts that I've seen typically used in meads, in no particular order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;*Wyeast 1388 Belgian Strong Ale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;*Lalvin EC-1118&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;*Lalvin K1-V1116  (often abbreviated &quot;K1V&quot;; sometimes listed as &quot;ICV K1&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin D47&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin 71B-1122 (abbreviated &quot;71B&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin DV10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin D21&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin RC-212 (it's a nutrient hog)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red Star Montrachet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red Star Côte des Blancs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fleischmann's Bread Yeast (in JAOM only)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&lt;em&gt;Yeasts I think would be good for a most hydromels&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems like a lot, but all of them bring out different qualities in mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you're feeling &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; ambitious, you can email a meadery that you know produces hydromels commercially, like B. Nektar or Crafted Artisan Meadery, and ask them what yeast they use for theirs. A lot of commercial mead makers are more than willing to give some tips, since they typically started as homebrewers too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastEditorUserId="8203" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T13:44:03.420" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T13:44:03.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6968" CreationDate="2015-09-16T16:59:26.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran into the same issue this week.&#xA;The problem is that the gas disconnect (ball or pin lock) has been pressurized without being on a keg. This pushes the poppet in the gas disconnect closed on the gas supply side. When you push you gas side ball lock onto the keg the pin in the gas fitting will push the poppet on the keg side down but there is no flow of CO2.&#xA;To fix this issue you need to discharge the pressure between the regulator and the gas disconnect. Turn off the CO2 at the tank, discharge the pressure in the gas line between the keg and the gas (pull the pressure relief on the CO2 gauge or remove and replace the gas disconnect if you have a shutoff valve make sure it is open).&#xA;Put the gas disconnect onto the keg 1st, open your shutoff valve, open the tank value, set your pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12674" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T16:59:26.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16096" CreationDate="2015-09-16T19:07:21.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were to bottle it as is, the beer will remain just as carbonated (if not less, due to agitation) than it is now. In order to get the carbonation you will need to add some source of fermentables (sugars) be it priming sugar or otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type and amount of sugar added are largely dependent on style and personal taste. Though there are many an online calculator out there to help you decide that. Northern Brewer has both a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/learn/resources/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;useful calculator&lt;/a&gt; where you can put in your information and get a weight for sugar as well as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/AdvancedBottleConditioning.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;helpful and more detailed guide&lt;/a&gt;, should you care to read it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While many will simply bottle condition by adding sugar to the beer and filling bottles, you may have a special issue. Having left the beer for 6 months, your yeast are probably dead. If they aren't dead they certainly aren't happy or healthy; this will lead to poor / slow conditioning. Think of putting a buffet in front of someone who has been starving for months, they'll want to gorge, but in the process will do themselves harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you would create a yeast culture and pitch it into your beer once it reaches similar conditions of pH and ABV as your beer. More practically, I would recommend mixing fresh yeast when you mix in your priming sugar. This will ensure you've healthy yeast to carbonate your beer. This will have the added benefit of helping clean up any off-flavours that may have developed from prolonged maturation atop potentially autolysed yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T04:32:39.490" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T04:32:39.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16089" CreationDate="2015-09-16T19:30:25.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a valid method for collecting and pitching yeast. Many a homebrewer will use a similar method for recreating or deriving specific yeast characteristics in their beers from commercial examples. There are however some things to consider when you go to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is the vitality and viability of the yeast at the bottom of those bottles. Yeast are living organisms, or at least, in this case you hope they are. If we consider the conditions of a fully fermented beer, it has a reduced pH, an elevated alcohol content, has low residual (fermentable) sugars and is anaerobic. All these traits help reduce the growth of undesired microbes, but they also stress out yeast cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how long that bottle has been sitting around, and under what conditions, the yeast inside may be on a sliding scale of happy and healthy to dead. Storage of commercial beers, especially in North America, tends to be under less than ideal conditions, consider un-chilled warehouses, with bright lights and even worse if its been imported. Hence to a large extent, the impetus to pasteurize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So lets say you successfully harvest the yeast from the bottom of the bottle, the entire population will be at various stages of health. Pitching straight into the fermenter of your fresh wort will likely give you a sluggish and slow fermentation that may even stall!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommendation would be to create a starter (aerated, low gravity, unhopped wort). &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewacademy.com/how-to-make-a-yeast-starter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Resource&lt;/a&gt;. How much to make will depend on style, but a rough estimate is 1 cup of slurry or gallon of starter for five gallons of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you don't have a HBS nearby, it would be advisable to harvest your yeast and build your own yeast bank. Rinsing and washing your yeast is an option to keep a population with high viability and vitality, but above all else sanitation is key. Keep yeast cool and under anaerobic conditions if storing (otherwise they will consume their sugar reserves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T19:30:25.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16087" CreationDate="2015-09-16T19:40:01.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Priming sugar will give you a very controllable, repeatable result with minimal to no impact on flavour, aroma or mouthfeel. Inconsistency when using this method is entirely down to process (i.e. inefficient mixing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Gyle (held wort) is a perfectly acceptable method as well, that will adhere to the German purity law (should that be important to you or your consumer). The risk for flavour alteration is greater, as you are mixing in wort, which hasn't undergone the alterations by yeast, but still contains many flavour compounds and precursors. What is then probably required to mitigate acetaldehyde (green apple) and diacetyl (buttery) flavours is a longer conditioning period before consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third option for you, is to bottle your still fermenting beer. The residual sugar will still be consumed by the active yeast, and in the sealed bottle build pressure. This can cut time off your typical post-fermentation priming, and still adheres to Reinheitsgebot. This requires a bit closer monitoring of your gravity. The gravity at which you bottle at with residual sugars present will be largely dependent on the final gravity the yeast are likely to reach. Here again, you may want to give the yeast a bit of time to clean up off-flavour causing compounds; but you should be on the same overall timeline for consumption as if you wait and then prime with corn sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Removed suggested gravity for third method, as it is process dependent and not absolute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastEditorUserId="12638" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T21:12:30.130" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T21:12:30.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-16T20:22:28.113" Score="2" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just started making my first batch of cider. Using the magnum cider starter kit. Here's the link for instructions so you can see what im doing.. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.home-brew-online.com/magnum-cider-kit-instructions-i50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.home-brew-online.com/magnum-cider-kit-instructions-i50&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm onto the second stage fermentation now and a bit confused on what to do next as the instructions are a bit unclear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've transferred ot over into pressure keg and added the 60g of sugar, now it's saying to leave it for around five days and then 'cool to clear'.. what exactly does this mean?&#xA;Will it ever stop fermenting in the keg?&#xA;Can I store keg in spare fridge in garage to keep cool and ready to drink as and when I need or will this affect the cider?&#xA;And can I travel with keg in the car to friends houses etc, or will this disturb segments on bottom if there is any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry to bombard you with questions but I've search high and low on forums all evening to try and find the answer to these questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks in advance  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastEditorUserId="12675" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T20:29:56.160" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T00:34:28.197" Title="cider - during and after second fermentation" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16104" CreationDate="2015-09-17T00:34:28.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cool to clear is cold crashing.  Drop the temperature as quickly as possible to just above freezing for a few days.  This causes anything in suspension to drop out.  5 days to carbonate seems a bit quick though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can store the keg to keep cool.  Yes, if you travel it will most likely stir up the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12176" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T00:34:28.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-17T03:24:50.377" Score="1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed a jalapeno ipa and am stumped as to why the abv is so low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OG was 1.037. During the primary, the activity was very intense... like more bubbles than most other beers I've brewed. It kept up for about 5 days, then slowed, and I racked it after 10 days. When I took the next gravity reading it was only 1.028. I threw some corn sugar in there to hopefully kick off more fermentation. I just took another reading after waiting 5 more days and the gravity hasn't changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temp has remained pretty steady at 68-72.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my real question is: &lt;em&gt;Is it possible for the yeast to feed like crazy but produce no alcohol?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2lb 2-row &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7lb light malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2oz columbia hops 2oz citra hops      &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;American ale II yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jalapenos in boil and a few at end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12676" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T10:34:07.083" Title="Low ABV, but lots of fermentation activity" Tags="|fermentation|ipa|stuck-fermentation|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="568" CreationDate="2015-09-17T05:47:45.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could probably use a little bit of sourdough starter to start Boza. It has all the right microorganisms. I haven't tried it, but I would imagine that you could use vinegar &quot;mother&quot; as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12677" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T05:47:45.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16096" CreationDate="2015-09-17T09:16:27.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope. Unless you killed all the yeast with heat or chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculate the required amount of priming sugars needed for the carbonation that you need and you are ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to guess that the beer will be slower to carbonate as most of the yeast would have fallen out, so maybe give your beer a week or two extra before chilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beers are not carbonated after a month, then you would have to add active yeast. Rehydrate 1 g dry yeast in one liter water. When the yeast is ready, add 1 ml per bottle and recap the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T09:16:27.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16095" CreationDate="2015-09-17T09:20:30.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low ABV yeast is all yeast. It is the high ABVs that get tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you want the yeast to do anything apart from making alcohol, then use a &quot;clean&quot; yeast, like SafAle S04. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want aromas and flavours, then... you have many options! Depending on what yeast you can get hold of, go to that company web site and read the information about the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T09:20:30.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16094" CreationDate="2015-09-17T09:23:57.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Safe for consumption, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances that the beer will not be what you planned, very high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the hops was not stored frozen they would have lost a lot of flavour, aroma and bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From experience, I brewed an APA that came out very malty because of old hops. Not a bad beer, but not what I wanted to brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, rather buy new hops and store the leftovers in the freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T09:23:57.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16086" CreationDate="2015-09-17T09:28:09.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the heat maybe accentuated the smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, DMS can also be from biological contamination. Considering that the keg was warmer, the bugs would have been in a better environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T10:19:52.940" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T10:19:52.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16106" CreationDate="2015-09-17T09:31:02.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two reasons I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capsaicin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Capsaicin&lt;/a&gt; from jalapenos killed your yeast. If it can do that to yeast in baking, why not in beer? Required concentration would be high, but we don't know yours. Or maybe something else killed it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;High gravity is not from fermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test which one is the case, take a big amount of baking yeast, a cup or two of your beer, and see. If baking yeast can ferment it further, it means yeast in your tank are dead. If they just go down without changing gravity, the problem was with the mash, not fermentation. Solutions, respectively, are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add a big amount of fresh yeast slurry in hope it will ferment your beer before it dies.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nothing to do, just bottle it and leave it to age. It might actually be good in few months, with malty sweetness countering jalapenos.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T09:56:56.050" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T09:56:56.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16070" CreationDate="2015-09-17T11:30:24.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, &lt;strong&gt;contact vendor&lt;/strong&gt; and ask him if consuming it will be dangerous to &lt;strong&gt;consumer's health&lt;/strong&gt;. If yes, then throw it away. Period. Don't read any further. If it's not dangerous, proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't add yeast yet, consider boiling it. Some sanitizers get volatile easily, so that would help. Then try it for taste. If it's acceptable, try fermenting it. Kit yeast tends to be cheap, so why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already added yeast, wait and see. If you ruined it, you ruined it. No reliable way to get rid of chemicals now, and adding fresh yeast is pretty pointless as they will die, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waiting a week or two costs you nothing, so proceed as normal, and taste before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T11:30:24.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-17T11:32:37.463" Score="3" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my first beer from a kit and followed the instructions carefully as well as reading around. Specifically, I was very careful about cleaning and sterilisation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a 2 FV setup and after 2 weeks of fermentation racked into my secondary FV when the gravity had stabilised. It all looked fine except that in the first litre or 2 being syphoned into the 2nd FV, I observed a 'creamy blob' floating on top of the beer a bit like an oil patch floating on water. It was quite white and opaque, it looked just like I'd poured a splash of cream in and it was sitting on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to remove it with a small sieve in one piece leaving no residual bits behind and continued to rack, then primed and bottled. I've seen no obvious issues with the beer so far - it has bottle fermented and is currently conditioning. One I tested seemed OK considering it was very new, and I had no ill effects! Sadly I didn't get a photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering what this is likely to have been? A small infection? Some by-product of fermentation lurking at the bottom of the FV? Something to do with the tap on my primary FV perhaps - I used this tap to take samples and wonder if beer left in the tap could've got infected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T11:44:46.490" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T11:44:46.490" Title="When racking my beer, it looked like someone had poured cream in" Tags="|first-time-brewer|brewing|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-17T12:58:17.577" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been struggling to find a supplier in the UK who sells amber 330ml bottles suitable for European crown caps. I'm looking for glass or plastic bottles preferably of the tall style as opposed to the dumpy Belgian style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T10:19:05.800" Title="Recommendations for a bottle supplier" Tags="|bottles|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-17T13:31:59.783" Score="4" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will have about 1kg of wild hops, gathered last week and frozen. It's wild, but probably it's genotype contains Lubelski (closely related to Saaz), Marynka (bittering hop), and who knows what else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use it. I will use it. But I wonder - what kinds / styles of beer to brew with it to have best idea about it next year? I can brew few batches with it, used differently. But what styles to brew to get most information for future use, in case I would have access to it next years? I mean, only brewing Pale Ales will give me information about it's taste and aroma, but no information about how it plays with dark malts, for example. I can't try a significant part of known styles, so which ones to try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What styles or techniques will be most representative for ales, in respect to hops usage and effect? And will allow me to take reasonable assumptions about hop behavior in similar / related styles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T13:57:39.650" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T09:06:45.427" Title="How to approach unknown hops?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16124" CreationDate="2015-09-17T14:27:43.223" Score="5" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed a few dozen batches of ale, but I'd like to brew a lager and am considering low-cost equipment to purchase. I see many using a chest freezer with a temperature control device (such as described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/861/temperature-control-for-fermentation&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/865/7873&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;), so that's what I'm considering first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;strong&gt;I'm concerned about the reliability of a freezer when &quot;harshly&quot; power-cycled&lt;/strong&gt; by something &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/brewing-equipment/fermenting-equipment/fermentation-temperature-control/johnson-controls-a419-digital-temp-controller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;of the style of this device&lt;/a&gt;. It plugs in between the outlet and the freezer, and seems to work by turning on or off the freezer by essentially &quot;plugging in and unplugging&quot; the freezer to keep the contents in the right temperature range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On compressor-based systems (refrigerators, dehumidifiers, air conditioners, etc.) &lt;strong&gt;I see warnings against &quot;harshly&quot; power-cycling these type of machines&lt;/strong&gt;: it seems to imply that plugging and unplugging the system is somehow &quot;bad&quot; for unspecified reasons, and (based on the behavior of, e.g., unplugging and re-plugging a dehumidifier) it seems that some systems have some logic to avoid frequently turning on and off the compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I be concerned about this at all?&lt;/strong&gt; From your experience, &lt;strong&gt;have you seen any reliability (or other) concerns regarding this type of power-cycling?&lt;/strong&gt; I'm surprised that I can't find other questions about this, so perhaps I'm just over-thinking this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T09:02:08.400" Title="Considerations for temperature control of a freezer?" Tags="|lager|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-17T18:14:16.363" Score="2" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the area I fermented in was too warm for my Brewers Best Weizenbier.  About 75 degrees instead of the recommended 68-72.  Bubbles were flowing though my airlock for a couple of days, but then stopped. The instructions with the kit said it'd bubble for 4-6 days. I'm assuming it's done fermenting, but afraid it did so too fast and not sure if that's a bad thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advice of next steps?  Go ahead and bottle?  Reyeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12679" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T20:52:37.293" Title="Primary Fermentation Only Cuased Bubbles for 2 Days" Tags="|fermentation|wheat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-09-23T12:46:22.457" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16118" CreationDate="2015-09-17T20:52:37.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First thing's first&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bubbles are not an absolute indicator of fermentation. The most reliable way to tell if your fermentation is &quot;done&quot; is to use a hydrometer, and once you find you are getting consistent gravity over several days, then it has finished digesting sugars (still technically fermenting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fermenting Hot, and what it means&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermenting on the warmer side does a number of things to beer. First, it makes the yeast much happier, most yeast strains are quite content around 30 C. For a brewer, however, this poses a problem. Happy yeast digest sugars more rapidly, meaning they have to open up more pathways to accommodate the food supply; think of emergency detour routes on a clogged highway, the main route is filled to capacity, so other routes start to be taken to get around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can give you a number of compounds in your beer, some good, some bad depending on what you're after. One of the compounds that can be made is fusel alcohols (higher order alcohols). These tend to be unpleasant, and if you give your beer a good whiff, you'll know they are there if it smells like rubbing alcohol. These can be unpleasant to the consumer, giving a hot sensation, and causing more severe hangover-like symptoms as they are metabolized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The positive potential outcome, is that fusel alcohols combine with acids (typically Acetyl CoA from yeast) to make esters. Esters are aromatic compounds that are often associated with fruits and flowers. Which could be a good or bad thing, depending on what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a hydrometer reading, and then take one the following day. If the readings are the same, your yeast are done digesting sugars. They will still be active, cleaning up the beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the beer smells like rubbing alcohol (fusel) you can try to save it by pitching fresh (ideally healthy, from a starter) yeast, with some dextrose. This will give the new yeast something to chew on and hopefully allow them to convert the fusel alcohols to esters. I had success saving a Saison that fermented hot, and stopped at 1.020 (notorious of French Dupont Saison strains) that was very fusel. Pitching fresh yeast (different strain) and a bit of dextrose, and giving it time to condition gave a very fruity (not Saison) beer that was at the very least palatable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If #1 is good, and #2 doesn't exist, simply allow to condition and then bottle as you would normally. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T20:52:37.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16116" CreationDate="2015-09-17T21:05:00.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something I've read somewhere and tried myself with a degree of success is this technique:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go out and buy a six pack of the most bland beer you know of in whatever style you desire  (I've used But Light for a lighter beer, but not experimented with darkers).  At this point you will need to sanitize the hops (you can probably freeze for more of a dry hopping, or boil for a short time in a very small amount of water for more of a wet hop characteristic... I wouldn't dry them off when done boiling).  Then open the beer and put the hops in and reseal and let sit for whatever time you desire, with a minimum of a couple days (probably not too long since the carbonation may not last forever).  This should give you an idea of what affect the hops will have on the beer, but is definitely not a definitive way to do it, just cheap and somewhat effective to get a taste of their affect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12180" LastEditorUserId="12180" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T21:10:02.543" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T21:10:02.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15293" CreationDate="2015-09-18T02:18:25.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing a cursory google search reveals that the pore size of coffee filters* is about 20 microns. Given that yeast are in the single digit micron range (varies depending on strain, age, etc.) the yeast will pass through the coffee filter. You may retain some clumps if they've bound together on a macro-scale, but otherwise this won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I suspect that the pore size of a coffee filter is subject to brand, but this value is a reasonable and probable benchmark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good flocculation is the easiest way to &quot;filter&quot; yeast away from your product. This can be enhanced with cooling of the product, and finning agents such as isinglass (at least in beer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some homebrewers employ water cartridge filters when kegging to filter yeast and other particulate out of their beer. These are often available in practical 1 - 5 micron ranges at most hardware stores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T02:18:25.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-18T08:18:33.960" Score="1" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought a Mangrove Jack's brewing kit and some strawberry and pear cider. The cider I bought is supposed to be 4.7% but after following the instructions exactly and checking that the hydrometer was calibrated correctly I read an OG of 1.11?? Why would my original gravity be so high and is this normal for a sweet cider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12681" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T10:22:17.690" Title="Cider original gravity is 1.11. Why is it so high?" Tags="|cider|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16117" CreationDate="2015-09-18T09:02:08.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you switch your freezer on and off in quick succession the compressor gives up the ghost and you have a box that can actually turn into a semi-oven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good news! thermostats like the STC-1000 have a timer (that you can set) that tells it not to power on/off within that period. I have mine set to 10 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you buy a temp control device, just check if it has some delay or timer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T09:02:08.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16116" CreationDate="2015-09-18T09:06:45.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make a tea with the hops (boil a few &quot;cones&quot; in 500 ml water for 15 minutes) and let the tea cool. Then add to a lightly flavoured beer in small amounts until the hops take center stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will allow you to get an idea of the aromas, flavours and bitterness. From there you can build a recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just brew an APA, using a known, high alpha hop for bittering. Use the new hop for flavour and aroma. Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T09:06:45.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16115" CreationDate="2015-09-18T09:08:23.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to a brewery that uses the bottles you want and ask them where they buy from. If their seller is not willing to sell to you, ask the brewery if you can buy from/through them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T09:08:23.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16114" CreationDate="2015-09-18T10:31:06.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had something similar, I was brewing a Bohemian Pilsner Ale and the yeast formed tennis ball sized clumps on the top of the beer! I freaked out! But I recited the Papazian mantra and kegged the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That beer ended up being one my best beers ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some yeasts (S04 in my case) sometimes flocculate, but in the process still have so much CO2 that they stay on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer smells and tastes good, then all is OK :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T10:31:06.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16106" CreationDate="2015-09-18T10:34:07.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How did you add the jelapeno? It might be that the plant matter is causing the extra dissolved items in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a maroela beer that was at 1.015 when I added the maroelas. The beer ended up at 1.028 just because of the plant material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T10:34:07.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2015-09-19T04:50:05.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you ever tried a heat gun? The heat softens the glue and it does get hotter than a blow dryer. They use them to remove labels in some factories. Just be careful not to singe and use something besides your hands to peel it off (maybe a putty knife)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12687" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T04:50:05.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16133" CreationDate="2015-09-19T09:05:44.470" Score="1" ViewCount="989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed this recipe last night:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerrecipes.org/showrecipe.php?recipeid=1254#sthash.U5JgSM6X.GnSCunwe.dpbs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beerrecipes.org/showrecipe.php?recipeid=1254#sthash.U5JgSM6X.GnSCunwe.dpbs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think we added enough water and it looks like the OG is around 1.1 although the reading could be bad. The beer is already high alcohol content at 8.7%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would it be more dangerous then it's worth to top up the fermenter that has just started to 5.5 gallons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I wait and add bottled water in the secondary fermentation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just forget about it and wait to see how it turns out?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3239" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T15:01:02.437" Title="Adding water just after fermentation has started, wait, or not worth it?" Tags="|fermentation|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-19T10:20:16.287" Score="1" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first process was crushing the fruit, putting a lid on it and letting it ferment for 3 weeks. I strained it once, added sugar and put an air lock on. Can it be strained again? What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12688" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T14:52:06.170" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T18:02:03.910" Title="I took the airlock off for just a couple of seconds, will it ruin my wine?" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16131" CreationDate="2015-09-19T14:54:42.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're looking to do is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftbeer.com/craft-beer-muses/high-gravity-beer-big-risk-bigger-reward&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;high gravity brewing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. This technique is oft employed by macro brewers to produce more beer with less fermenter space. They dilute after fermentation is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Useful Resources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/hops/item/237-blending-for-volume-techniques&quot;&gt;Brew Your Own Article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/expand-theory/&quot;&gt;Beer and Wine Journal Article Part 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/expand-ii/&quot;&gt;Beer and Wine Journal Article Part 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some Considerations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast Health: Your yeast will be exposed to a higher osmotic pressure because of the higher sugar load. This is stressful to them if you haven't properly pitched the right number of yeast. Consider asking three people to empty a buffet designed to feed fifty. Pitching rates are based on degrees Plato, so a higher gravity wort will require more yeast, of a strain that can handle the higher load.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colour: Colour, despite what one might think, does not change linearly with dilution, so your colour may not be what you expect when you dilute.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bitterness: When you calculated your initial post-boil volume, your bitterness was also based on this volume. If you dilute, you will lower your IBU proportionately. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sanitation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: This should go without saying, but don't ruin your beer by diluting with straight tap water. Boil the water first, cool it down quickly, make sure you're doing things in a sanitary manner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ion content and Water profile: When diluting high gravity worts / beers, you'll want to make sure your water profile is similar to that of the beer. This is less of a concern on the homebrew scale, but all the same, if you filtered before filter now etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastEditorUserId="12638" LastEditDate="2015-09-19T15:01:02.437" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T15:01:02.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16140" CreationDate="2015-09-19T21:01:42.757" Score="3" ViewCount="1116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be building a kegerator pretty soon and I'm pretty sure that I am going to buy a new fridge. Now, I have 1 corny keg but in the future, I would like 4 kegs hooked up, my wife also would like a chest freezer for storage. I think I can fit 2 kegs with gas in an under the counter fridge, so I'd need 2 and also this chest freezer. I was looking in the store today at refrigerators and I have found a fridge/freezer that I think I can satisfy everyone with! I can fit 4 kegs in the top and enough room for gas and a few bottles of ale. And the wife can have the bottom section for storage. This way will save me about £100. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the refrigerator I am thinking of getting: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/household-appliances/refrigeration/fridge-freezers/indesit-biaa12p-uk-fridge-freezer-white-10023597-pdt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/household-appliances/refrigeration/fridge-freezers/indesit-biaa12p-uk-fridge-freezer-white-10023597-pdt.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few questions about this idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My beer lines will be a little longer, probably 2 meters, will this&#xA;matter and importantly will it effect the beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I store the gas bottle outside of the fridge? Or does the&#xA;CO2 have to be chilled also?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I cut my hole in the side of a fridge?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefits to having this style is cost saving and also it will take up less space (although not a massive issue) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3432" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T07:02:08.453" Title="How to choose a fridge to convert to a kegerator" Tags="|corny-keg|kegerator|gas|refrigerator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16136" CreationDate="2015-09-20T01:39:46.033" Score="1" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I'm an experienced homebrewer, I've only ever done ales because I've never had a fridge.  I recently bought a BrewJacket and was able to brew my first lager.  I'm now at the bottling phase and have a question about the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep my house at 78°F(25°C).  I've seen the posts where carbonation can take place at 60-70°F and be fine.  Is there any risk carbonating at the higher 78 F temperature?  I don't have a fridge to put the beers in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters, the beer is a Marzen that lagered at 54 F for four weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12643" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T15:55:13.723" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T15:55:13.723" Title="Max temperature for lager carbonation" Tags="|beer|carbonation|lager|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16135" CreationDate="2015-09-20T15:25:40.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general rule of thumb is that temps above 80F will promote staling and reduce the shelf life of the beer.  I doubt that a week or so at that temp or slightly above would be too detrimental, though.  I don't think you'll have any problem at all carbing at 78F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T15:25:40.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T23:51:32.223" Score="0" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few kegs with loose lids. That is, the lever doesn't offer a lot of resistance when you close the lid. I think the kegs are leaking CO2 from the lid. I have heard that putting pennies under the lever may help, but I had another idea. What if I bought a slightly thicker o-ring? Might this solve the leaky lid problem as well? I have a hard time getting the pennies to stay under the levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T10:42:57.437" Title="Fixing keg lid leaks" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16137" CreationDate="2015-09-21T00:45:28.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lever does not seal the lid. Sufficient pressure in the keg pushes the lid against the o-ring and against the top of the keg, sealing the lid; the lever just holds it all in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add more CO₂ pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T00:45:28.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16134" CreationDate="2015-09-21T07:02:08.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No, length is not a problem. Just coil your beerline and tape it together so that it is not a mess whenever you open the door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CO2 should be outside the fridge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, you can drill through the side, but the door is usually the safest. When drilling through the side, avoid the 5cm around the sides as there are cooling tubes running there. An even better idea would be to talk to a person who repairs those fridges and ask them where it is safe to drill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T07:02:08.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16132" CreationDate="2015-09-21T07:03:54.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your wine should be fine. The alcohol and the acidity should be high enough to kill all the bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T07:03:54.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T09:34:04.230" Score="1" ViewCount="3793" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just brought a cider making kit for beginners as I want to get back into home brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is can I add additional flavouring to the cider, when to add it and if possible any great flavours that you have tried? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12694" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T11:19:21.940" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T21:15:30.980" Title="Can I add black currant flavour to cider kit?" Tags="|cider|first-time-brewer|flavoring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T10:26:41.280" Score="3" ViewCount="639" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Lalvin yeast I bought is not doing anything in my wort. When I told people on an online forum I'd hydrated it with 40°C water, they told me this was far too hot. But this is exactly what it said on the instructions so I'm wondering what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5qKH3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5qKH3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;More details:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is Lalvin EC-1118 champagne yeast, bought just last week with a use-by of 2017&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I hydrated it as the instructions said and then added to 5L of must (one jar of honey)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One teaspoon of nutrient was added&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A few little bits of 'scum' appeared on the liquid after two days but no airlock activity occurs, no krausen has formed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The must is at a reasonably stable ~19°C, and has been for 3 days now&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-07-18T13:13:28.207" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T13:13:28.207" Title="Temperature when hydrating dry yeast" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16142" CreationDate="2015-09-21T11:12:19.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer:&lt;/em&gt; I describe only the things i have experience with, or with things similar enough for me to be sure. There are many ways I heard but have no idea about, so feel free, encouraged even, to post your own answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically for black currant, there are things you can do with it, and expected results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Adding during fermentation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Juice or must (squeezed fruit)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will add flavor and aroma, but might also introduce wild yeast and bacteria. Probably will result in additional sourness, and maybe &quot;horsey&quot; or &quot;rustic&quot; smell. Some like it, some don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sugar content similar to apple juice, should not affect ABV significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Juice or must pre-heated / boiled&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will kill most wild stuff if done properly, but will also purge volatile aromatic compounds, leaving only the strongest ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to evaporation, sugar content might be raised, and this will affect final ABV, but probably only slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Frozen fruit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get it, it probably was sterilized in factory. Wash thoroughly to be sure to remove sterilizing agents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of flavor should be kept, and sugar content should be intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Commercial black currant syrup&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay away from it. Between 0.5% and 2% real black currant, usually, and 60% of fermentable sugars, it is a good way to raise ABV horrifically and ruin taste. That is, if artificial flavorings and preservatives will not kill your yeast first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Homemade syrup&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use polish traditional recipe, it might be not that bad:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil just enough water to comfortably cover your fruit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add sugar, 1kg sugar for 1kg fruit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil until sugar is well dissolved&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn off heating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put fruit in hot sugar solution&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After 5 minuter, pour it thorough a sieve (or not). Cool it by putting pot in cold water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This syrup will raise ABV significantly, with good 30% to 50% of sugar in it, but it has pretty unlimited shelf life and sugar helps to keep aromas in. Might give you decent results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Organic extracts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Powder ones are basically a sterilized, freeze dried juice. Easiest, surest, fastest, most expensive way. As for the taste - think the difference between espresso and instant coffee. Given it's water free, you can add as much as you want. Just check the sugar content - some varieties are sugar free, and will not affect ABV in any way. Some have part of fruit sugars in them, and you need to remember that in your calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fluid extracts - I have no idea, but probably it's quite similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Dried fruit, fruit tea and similar&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience - &lt;strong&gt;NOOOOO!!!&lt;/strong&gt;. The only time I poured whole batch down the toilet was when I tried to use dried herbs and fruit. I &lt;em&gt;thought&lt;/em&gt; I did enough to sterilize it, but apparently I didn't, and I got infection going, big time. Pretty nasty infection, worse than you get from natural yeast and bacteria on fresh fruit. Your mileage may vary, of course. But don't try asking me for help if you will try that, &lt;strong&gt;I&lt;/strong&gt; can't do it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/6374/red-trigger&quot;&gt;Red Tiger&lt;/a&gt; in comments &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/16142/can-i-add-black-currant-flavour-to-cider-kit/16144#comment20603_16144&quot;&gt;reported to get this done&lt;/a&gt; with success. He uses disinfectant tabs or makes tinctures, and also waits for beer to be fully fermented to avoid feeding bacteria that might survive. For him, it works. For me, it didn't. Your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Adding after fermentation?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/16142/can-i-add-black-currant-flavour-to-cider-kit/16144?noredirect=1#comment20580_16144&quot;&gt;Mr. Boy pointed out&lt;/a&gt;, if you will add these after fermentation, with yeast safely killed, you will retain more sweetness, more flavors, and will not affect ABV. On the other hand, if yeast are still alive, you might end up with exploding bottles. And of course forget re-fermenting in bottles, impossible without yeast. Sugar-free extracts are exception, of course, and can be added with live yeast in cider safely (if they are &lt;em&gt;honestly&lt;/em&gt; sugar free).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want only slight currant flavor, you may use juice as priming sugar. It will hardly be strong enough to sniff it, but it will add to the &quot;richness&quot; of your brew if used that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T21:15:30.980" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16143" CreationDate="2015-09-21T11:20:52.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All yeast are quite similar, really. It's surprising how different instructions manufacturers print for basically the same organism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, it is best to start with 30°C water. Then let it cool to about 20° before adding to wort. Unless I have an opportunity to actually speak with the one who wrote instructions, I simply ignore them if they tell me to go warmer. So far, so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if for particular strain higher temperature is OK, don't just throw 40°C yeast to 19°C must. Let them cool. Imagine how you feel when you jump from hot sunny beach into a cold water. Not good, right? For yeast safe temperature difference is about 5°C, as far as I know. But I would try to get even closer if feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about current batch, try rehydrating second package in lower temperature and adding it. If you are sure your conditions was sterile, you may want to wait up to three days. They still may kick in. Also, was your wort properly aerated? If not, this is the last moment to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T12:29:52.250" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T12:29:52.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2763" CreationDate="2015-09-21T12:25:06.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they're still around, I assume you could carbonate just about anything using a SodaStream machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T12:25:06.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12484" CreationDate="2015-09-21T13:02:07.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an universal solution that works for most microorganisms, and I bet it will for yours, too. After all, both Saccharomyces and Lactobacillus finds everything they need in it, so symbiotic colony of them should as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use beer wort, may be from extract. It's a soup of everything microorganisms needs. OG at about 8 to 10 Plato (1.030 to 1.040 as Americans call it).  Put it in a jar. Add yeast nutrient, compound one. Yeast cell walls kind, if possible. Aerate it by swirling. Try on small part of your GBP, and see yourself. Magnetic stirrer would be ideal, but if you don't have, swirl it three, four times a day, at least few minutes each. This is to remove CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; and add oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T13:02:07.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16149" CreationDate="2015-09-21T15:01:17.413" Score="3" ViewCount="915" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title suggests, I'm looking for options to dry out a beer (stout) that's already been force carbed in a keg.  Can I simply bring it back up to temp in hopes that fermentation will restart? It's just too darn sweet to enjoy. Thanks in advance for your constructive suggestions! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer in question was made with typical stout recipe with the intent to produce a sweet, low abv beer. Used northwest ale #1332. OG was 1.059, FG 1.020, which would have been fine except then I added 3 lbs of cherry puree for 5 days. The cherry sugars never fermented out because I dropped the temp to 45 degrees in an attempt to keep it sweet and flavorful. Unfortunately, this brought the gravity back up to 1.028, much to sweet for my taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11963" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T12:31:00.480" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T12:31:00.480" Title="Beer too sweet and already force carbed...can I restart fermentation to dry it out?" Tags="|sweetness|keg-fermentors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16148" CreationDate="2015-09-21T15:38:12.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't be a problem. Just release pressure and raise temperature. Consider moving your beer back to fermentation tank, if you are afraid that there is not enough space for foam or that yeast will clog pipes. If that's not a problem, leave it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If fermentation will not start after about 3 days, you might need to add a fresh yeast slurry. Best would be from the foam of primary on a similar brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation is not good for yeast, but shouldn't kill them, either. It's a gamble if yours are alive and good enough. On the other hand, carbonation does not cause any permanent changes in beer, so once you get rid of it, fresh slurry will be able to finish the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T17:20:49.557" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T17:20:49.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:56:53.900" Score="2" ViewCount="3031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hops vine and want to harvest and dry for my son.  I understand I should harvest when they have a slight crunch but before they turn brown.&#xA;I am using a dehydrator with 75-degree F setting.  my question is how do I know they are dry enough to freeze. They feel dry to touch.  Do I break them apart??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.   He enjoys brewing but is new and I want to do this but am not sure how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12695" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T01:41:16.373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T01:41:16.373" Title="How to tell when hops are dry enough to seal and freeze" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16132" CreationDate="2015-09-21T18:02:03.910" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could tell you scores of stories of iffy sanitation practices, but have yet to skunk a batch. It does really take a major screw-up to do this (forget to sani the fermenter, leave it opened for many hours/days, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homebrew how-to manuals place a high emphasis on sanitation, but I am convinced this is because there are a lot of folks out there that need this level of dogmatic enforcement to accept the principle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12678" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T18:02:03.910" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16150" CreationDate="2015-09-21T19:20:41.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, that temp is too low.  Commercial growers use about 130F and after trying a lot of different temps, I've found that works best for my homegrown hops.  They should be dry in 2-9 hours.  Rotate trays for even drying.  When they are dry enough, the stem will be fairly brittle.  when you break them apart, the lupulin glands should be reasonably dry, but maybe still a touch sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T20:05:07.583" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T20:05:07.583" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16154" CreationDate="2015-09-21T19:27:47.240" Score="4" ViewCount="753" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing a homebrew for the first time, bought a kit to do it with; figured it be a good student method of saving money :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, its currently in the fermenting bin, and when it comes to transferring I plan to transfer into a barrel rather than bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the instructions is to add about 3oz of sugar per 5 gallons, but what kind of sugar would this be? Is it more brewing sugar, or can regular sugar or a different kind be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12697" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T21:07:07.810" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T21:07:07.810" Title="What sugar to use when transferring to bottle or barrel" Tags="|bottling|sugar|priming|barrels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16153" CreationDate="2015-09-21T20:27:58.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Almost anything, really, would work...&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want gas in your beer, kind of sugar does not matter, anything that ferment will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;.. but every thing will work in it's own way&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Glucose&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will ferment clean, probably with hardly any side effects. Good choice, easy to obtain and pretty cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Dry wort extract&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take about 20% more than sugar. It will be most &quot;authentic&quot; because, well, wort should be the only fermentable in your beer unless you know exactly why you want something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Regular table sugar&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works for me. Some say it brings wine-y tastes to your beer, but no one ever told me to taste them in my brew. But I tend to brew heavy ales. If you brew something more delicate, avoid table sugar. Better safe than sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Reserve&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pasteurizing part of wort before fermentation, keeping in the reserve and adding it back just before bottling works just like wort extract priming, only better. Literally no way it would ever introduce foreign tastes. This time is too late, but oh well. I never do it because it's a bit troublesome and benefit seems not worth it. But that's my personal opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Raw cane sugar&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want your beer taste a bit like rum, that might be the way to go. I used it happily to enrich my dark beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Molasses&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heavy change in taste. For really dark beers if, just before bottling, you decide this is exactly what they are lacking. use with caution and remember to take more of it than you would with sugar, but it will work, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Honey&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most probably it will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; bring any honey-like taste or aroma to your beer. Waste of money unless you do it for some other reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&quot;Priming tabs&quot;, &quot;beer sugar&quot;, &quot;brewing sugar&quot; etc&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of them are just one thing or mix of things I described above, with price doubled or tripled and fancy name on them. Would not buy. But if you already have stock of it, better use it for priming than main fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T20:43:01.773" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T20:43:01.773" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T22:58:20.800" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this is my first brew, everything was going great within 3 or so hours foams began to appear, krausen formed, and there were bubbles constantly coming out of the airlock. This morning I woke up and went to check the brew, more foam than yesterday and a little more krausen. I just got home and all the foam is gone, bubbles are still coming out, and there are these brown/orange spots on the surface around ~1cm in size. My rubber stopper seems to be a wee bit small and got pushed down but is still holding at the top when I opened it to smell the batch. The batch is starting to smell like beer. But mainly I am concerned about the no foam all of a sudden in less than 12 hours and these spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12700" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T08:57:29.410" Title="Potential yeast problem?" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16158" CreationDate="2015-09-21T23:19:55.377" Score="1" ViewCount="1238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm finding it hard to find affordable gas bottles in the UK. I've found a supplier that offer as they call it 'beverage' gas which consists of either 30/70 50/50 or 60/40 split of co2 and nitrogen but the bottle is a bit big for my liking (910mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also do a pure co2 'welding' gas. 5 litres at 550mm high. Is it safe to use pure co2 with my corny kegs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, the 'beverage' bottles are filled to 200 Bar / 2900 PSI but the 'welding' one is not so clear. I can see Approx. Vapour Pressure @ 20 degrees(c) 57.3 bar, not sure if that is the same thing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3432" LastEditorUserId="3432" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T08:15:20.493" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T08:21:10.377" Title="Will a pure co2 'welding' gas bottle be ok to use for my corny kegs?" Tags="|corny-keg|co2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16156" CreationDate="2015-09-22T07:55:17.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are only two safety factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pressure&lt;/strong&gt;. Output of one element must be in safe range of another element's input. If it isn't, you can use pressure reducer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fittings&lt;/strong&gt;. They must, well, fit. It's not enough for them to somehow snap, they have to work with each other by design and by technical papers. And must be designed to work at the pressure, see point 1.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gas proportion is a matter of personal taste, not safety. I drank beer on which pure CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; was used. Nothing special in it. A bit more gas in beer per psi unit, probably. Nothing that would affect safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as far as I have seen, &quot;food grade&quot; CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; came from the very same tanks &quot;regular&quot; CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; did. Go figure. I believe it's simply cheaper to have one better grade installation with higher output, than two different grades with lower output. Ask your vendor, both in official and unofficial way to see if that's the case for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If pressure is too low&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you might just &lt;em&gt;skip&lt;/em&gt; reducer or use different one. As far as I remember you hardly ever need more than 30 psi, so 57 Bar / 530 psi bottle should be enough for this purpose - if your pressure reducer can work with it. Some of them have not only upper, but also lower limit on input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T08:21:10.377" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T08:21:10.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16155" CreationDate="2015-09-22T08:57:29.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The loss of krausen is a perfectly normal part of the brewing process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually you get a load of krausen and bubbles and other fun for the first 2 - 5 days of fermentation depending on the original gravity of the beer, the style, the yeast and a few other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation will then slow down; Less or no bubbles coming through the airlock, the krausen subsides, and sometimes you will get the little circles of foam or bubbles (though I'd be keen to see a picture if you can, just to be sure!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some brewers (myself included) choose to rack off the sediment at this point (literally transfer the brew to another fermenting vessel using a tube) though others will recommend not doing this; It's a personal choice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the gravity using a hydrometer; If it's close to what you expect final gravity to be then it's probably just fermented itself out. Check it again for 2 more days, and if it doesn't change then you're good to bottle/keg!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most worrying things are the formation of a 'pellicle' which is a thin skin on top of the beer, off/sour smells and an unpleasant/sour taste when you sample the beer, which would indicate an infection of some sort... Otherwise it's probably OK!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12648" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T08:57:29.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16172" CreationDate="2015-09-22T10:23:51.643" Score="1" ViewCount="2292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing with a 25l HLT, 30l Mash tun and 52l boiler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am boiling 20l to 25l water in the HLT and losing some water during the Mash and Sparge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the end of the sparge I am getting about 15l in the boiler.  However I am losing lots during the wort boil, with my latest brew I ended up with less than 9 liters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of ways I can stop the loss of so much liquid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12690" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T01:42:49.647" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T01:42:49.647" Title="How can i stop losing so much water during brew" Tags="|all-grain|boil|water|sparge|boil-kettle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16137" CreationDate="2015-09-22T10:42:57.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What @jsled said, but I want to add something else: Take your keg to your local homebrew shop that sells the same kegs that you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After testing where your leak is, ask to replace that one part (probably an o-ring) and test for leaks. Repeat until all the leaks are gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to also test your tubing, disconnects and everything that is connected to the keg for leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T10:42:57.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16163" CreationDate="2015-09-22T11:21:56.000" Score="3" ViewCount="762" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time brewing a batch of ale and slightly concerned by a potential explosion!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just walked past the fermenting bin and saw the lid is bulging out slightly, at a guess I'd say the gas isn't escaping. I opened the lid and let the gas escape before resealing, but obviously I'd prefer a more permanent solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whats the best way to create an airlock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T12:09:08.270" Title="Fermenting bin lid bulging" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16162" CreationDate="2015-09-22T11:55:01.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For primary, all I usually do is just putting lid loosely on my tank. Without snapping it in place. Worked for me like a charm. Huge amounts of CO₂ will blanket against air pretty well. Just be advised that it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a risk. A little one, but one none the less. Make sure there is no way lid gets thrown off your tank by accident, no way dust to get blown inside, things like that. And try not to disturb CO₂ blanket by moving tank around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I know that fermentation will be slow, I use lid with a hole in it. I put it tightly on. I put a gauze (medical sterile one) in the hole, and cover it with a tinfoil. It's enough to release CO₂ and keep away bad guys. Less problems than with having liquid over my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most common advice is to use a lid with hole, and rubber cork with airlock in it, like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sapj4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sapj4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image from Wikipedia&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fermentation_lock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do it, it will work, but I leave it for secondary. You can drill it yourself, you can (probably) buy already drilled. Fastest and not so expensive way is to buy lid, cork and lock together, you will know it will fit. I discourage drilling by your own as it is easy to get that wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and don't put water there. Microorganisms like water and you don't like them next to your beer. Use vodka or something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T12:09:08.270" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T12:09:08.270" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16162" CreationDate="2015-09-22T11:56:33.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a drilled rubber bung and an airlock from a Home Brew Shop (like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewbitz.com/demi-johns-buckets-airlocks/136-bubbler-airlock-with-1-gallon-rubber-bung-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewbitz.com/demi-johns-buckets-airlocks/136-bubbler-airlock-with-1-gallon-rubber-bung-.html&lt;/a&gt;) and then drill a hole in the fermenting bin lid to match the diameter of the bottom of the bung (I think that mine was 16mm, but they may differ slightly... Make sure you measure yours before drilling!) - Then push the airlock into the centre of the bung, and the bung into the hole in the lid... Voila! Airlocked fermenting bin!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also buy lids with a hole already drilled for an airlock like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Brewferm-Fermenting-Bin-with-Airlock-and-Tap.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Brewferm-Fermenting-Bin-with-Airlock-and-Tap.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12648" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T11:56:33.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16166" CreationDate="2015-09-22T14:06:38.220" Score="1" ViewCount="3564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for this ginger beer to be sweet, spicy and very fizzy. Something which should violate your tongue's human rights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never produced a fizzy brew before so know nothing about priming. How much sugar can I add without blowing up the bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will appreciate any help and opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12703" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T14:37:23.563" Title="I am brewing alcoholic ginger beer. How much sugar to prime it?" Tags="|yeast|bottling|carbonation|priming-sugar|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16165" CreationDate="2015-09-22T14:37:23.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;It depends&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask your bottle vendor for their strength. Then, see what's your desired vol, by comparing it with styles you know. Use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/keg-carbonation-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Keg Carbonation Calculator&lt;/a&gt; to see what psi it will give you. If it is lower than design strength of your bottles, go for it. Calculate priming sugar for vol you want using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Priming Calculator&lt;/a&gt; and use that much. If it's too high, aim for a lower amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'm not associated with site hosting these calculators, I just find them reasonably good. Other calculators give similar results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't go over 3 vol unless you really, really know you can. And remember that too much gas may cause your brew to gush out of the bottle. Sometimes less is more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If bottles are second-hand, inspect them carefully as they may be weakened by natural wear and tear. Breweries can automate this to some degree, you can't, and exploding bottle is nothing nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T14:37:23.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16160" CreationDate="2015-09-22T14:55:42.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two stages you are &quot;loosing&quot; water, and each have different mechanism:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mash and sparge&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boil&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's talk them one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Mash &amp;amp; Sparge loses&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two reasons for that. First is stuck filtering. If your malt is dripping wet, but nothing comes from the filter, this is the case. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/1161/12577&quot;&gt;Preventing a Stuck Sparge&lt;/a&gt; for details how to deal with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second reason is water that will simply stay in the grain. If you sparge properly, you &lt;em&gt;want to lose it&lt;/em&gt;. It should not contain any fermentables in usable amount, but it will contain tanins and other bad tasting, slow to dissolve substances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Boil&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reduce time of the boil if needed. Make boil less vigorous. Add more water to compensate. Whatever. Don't cover your boil kettle - it will prevent purging DMS out of your beer. If you brew with grains that does not have much of DMS precursors, you can try partially covering your kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key word is &lt;strong&gt;measure&lt;/strong&gt;. Measure OG of wort before boil. Calculate the amount of liquid you need to have desired OG. If it's lower, let it boil down to that amount. If higher, add boiled water. Then, if you need more boil, continue adding water to cover for boil looses. That's all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T15:06:34.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16160" CreationDate="2015-09-22T15:01:24.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two very rough guesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, are there any points where you are boiling uncovered where you could change and cover the pot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, your boiler is 52l? Given how large that is I expect you're producing a lot of steam in the boiler due to its increased surface area. Try skipping the boiler, sparge back into your HLT instead of the boiler. Having the volume of the vessel be closer to the volume of your liquid should slow down your water loss. Try this and see if it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One comment, if you're not worried about water efficiency and are only bothered by the loss of volume, then feel free to add more sterile water at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T15:01:24.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15102" CreationDate="2015-09-22T18:01:11.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution was a combination of Franklin and Paul's suggestions. Franklin helped with cleaning when necessary and Paul helped me worry less about doing a complete breakdown and cleaning every time I poured a pint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my keg has to sit for a moderate amount of time I just leave it hooked up and pour off the first bit. If it sat for too long I clean it and now I know how to open the poppets to clean inside there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T18:01:11.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16171" CreationDate="2015-09-22T18:49:10.440" Score="0" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am relatively new to home brewing, and so far I have bottle carbonated all of my batches. However, I have been reading some about force carbonating and I would much rather do that if possible (for clarity, and time). I was checking out &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/bock/item/661-force-carbonation-tips-from-the-pros&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article, and it seems like it should be fairly straight forward, but I do not want to get exploding bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my two questions are these,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any reason I should not force carbonate my bottles?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What would I need, or need to know to go this route?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2288" LastEditorUserId="2288" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T14:07:14.990" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T14:07:14.990" Title="Should I use force carbonation, and how do I go about doing it?" Tags="|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16170" CreationDate="2015-09-22T20:45:25.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Force carbonation occurs in the keg, &lt;strong&gt;not the bottles&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation wrt to the article, occurs in the keg using a CO2 tank. Once the beer is carbonated, it is transferred to the bottles via a counter pressure filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For this process you will need:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CO2 Tank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regulator (CO2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lines and Connections (including a tee for gas line)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Counter Pressure Filler (I personally use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.morebeer.com/products/counter-pressure-bottle-filler.html&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, there is a version with a gauge, that is IMHO unnecessary, there are brass/copper ones as well, but these can impact your final product)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottles (which you obviously already have)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No. 2 Stopper - suitable for most bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The process is as follows:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purge system with CO2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer beer from fermentation vessel to keg (filter if desired)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect CO2 to Keg (a variety of methods exist, it comes down to a balance between time and volatilization of aromatics)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once carbonated, connect counter pressure filler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purge bottle with CO2 (combination of burping and allowing flow through pressure release valve (PRV))&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rapidly switch valve to open beer line (&lt;em&gt;rapidly is key, learned after painting my kitchen in beer&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle should slowly fill with no foam, once beer pours out PRV, close valve remove counter pressure filler and cap. (You can fob with CO2 if you have extra hands to prevent oxygen pickup for longer shelf life)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Helpful Tips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitation is as always important! Ensure all things that touch beer are sanitized.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold is better! If you can chill your bottles you will lose less beer to foaming. Additionally, your keg should be cold, and if you'll be taking a while to transfer, insulate it to keep it cold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some bottles can be sterilized. &lt;em&gt;Perform with caution&lt;/em&gt; ideally run a test on a couple of bottles first, as some cannot tolerate the heat. You can sterilize your bottles by capping them with tin foil, and baking them in the oven (once cleaned). Start with the oven cold, gradually raise the temperature. 65 C for 5 minutes is sufficient to provide sterilization. Gradually cool the bottles thereafter. They will remain sterile for all intents and purposes so long as the foil remains tight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T20:45:25.497" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16160" CreationDate="2015-09-22T21:03:15.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Losses of water in the brewing process are common. There are some that are unavoidable and some that are controllable to a point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Absorption by Grain&lt;/strong&gt;: Your dry grain will absorb water at a rate of 0.96*(weight of grain). The 0.96 is a ratio, so if you use kg of grain, for every 1 kg of grain, you will lose 0.96 kg of water (~960 mL). If you use pounds, 1 lb of grain will lose 0.96 lbs of water (~436 mL).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Losses to Evaporation&lt;/strong&gt;: Boiling water inherently creates steam. Evaporation rates are highly dependent on vessel size, shape, vigor of boil, ambient humidity etc. etc. etc. So it is impossible to predict yours. Generally evaporation rates are between 5-15% per hour. Only through experimentation will you be able to determine this. &lt;em&gt;It may even change between recipes and brew days!&lt;/em&gt; You can do things to limit this by reducing the vigor of the boil (simmer at 100 C / 212 F, as opposed to rolling boil). Additionally, you can reduce the exposed surface area (put a lid half-on your pot), keep in mind however, that in doing so you risk retaining volatile compounds like DMS/DMSO that can give a creamed-corn aroma/flavour if not boiled off, generally considered a flaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Contraction&lt;/strong&gt;: If you measure your volume while its boiling and immediately after knocking-out (cooling) you will notice a 4% difference. This is simply due to water occupying more space while hot. This is less of a loss and more of an accounting / recipe development affair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. Losses due to Trub and Process&lt;/strong&gt; These are just part of the process, losses in transfer, to hop material, what is adsorbed by proteins etc. We account for 2% here, but your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it comes down to, is that there will be losses no matter what you do. Breweries are forever trying to improve their water consumed : beer produced ratio. A 4:1 is considered good! You will see improvements as you learn and refine your system and process. You are on the right track simply by starting to consider how to do it. Keep that in mind while you're brewing and look for ways to improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T21:03:15.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16150" CreationDate="2015-09-22T21:31:43.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For storing hops, a moisture content of 8-10% is desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to determine this in a home-based setting (and oft performed in the lab as well) is a weight by difference technique. This is a destructive technique (you won't be using these hops for brewing after).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a sample of your hops, weight them. Then put them in a toaster oven (or other similar device). The goal here is to dry the hops out to completion (removing all water). You'll want to use enough heat that they dry out, but not so much that they burn or otherwise degrade, it has been recommended 120-140 F is fine for this, but you'll want to use a lower temperature for your bulk drying. Check the weight of your hops regularly over the course of the drying, once the weight change levels out, they are dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now know the moisture content, and the dry weight. Some simple arithmetic and you should be able to determine how much to dry your bulk hops to proper levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two excellent articles that cover this topic for home-use in thorough detail, including the math!&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/drying_hops_on_a_small_scale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Drying hops on a small-scale&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/blog/blog/2012/12/09/hop-drying-at-home/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Hop Drying at Home&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T21:31:43.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15726" CreationDate="2015-09-23T08:20:54.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It's not about time&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's about what's happening. For secondary, &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/2835/12577&quot;&gt;some claim it's not needed&lt;/a&gt; at all. If you think you need it, wait until the foam disappears, and rate of OG drop will slow down significantly, under 1°Blg every two days, I'd say. For starting gravity around 20°Blg I would guess it will be about 3 to 5 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When to finish secondary? Or fermentation at all if you don't do secondary? Well, for me it's when OG does not change for few days. With high gravity beer - when it does not change for a week&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider Fast Fermentation Test - take a sample of your wort, add a lot of pressed baking yeast, keep in warm place. See the final gravity after a day or two. It will be around the gravity you should want expect from your beer. if it's higher, but does not continue to fall down, you might have stalled fermentation and bottling might be dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T08:20:54.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-23T12:32:28.177" Score="0" ViewCount="1397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a modified Oktoberfest 11 days ago.  I used an ale yeast to cut down on the time. I let it ferment at 68 degrees Fahrenheit for 4 days, then decided to put it in the fridge at 50 degrees.  I wrapped it in ice belts for 24 hours and dropped the temp to about 60 before transferring it to the fridge at 50.  It's been sitting at 50 for 6 days.  With the ale yeast, is it doing anything or am I just wasting time?  Can I move it back to 68 to 70 room temp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mlas&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12705" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T13:31:18.487" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T13:38:34.903" Title="Ale yeast at cold temps?" Tags="|yeast|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16175" CreationDate="2015-09-23T12:43:04.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most ale yeast don't like rapid changes of temperature. And most of them don't like temperature go down. My experience says that 1 °C difference (2 °F?) is safe, and you should rather start low and go up than the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, each strain of yeast has the temperature range advertised by manufacturer. Unless your experience says you can (or you feel adventurous), don't go outside it. For example, classic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFA_US05.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;safale US-05&lt;/a&gt; have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;fermentation temperature: 12-25°C (53.6-77°F) ideally 15-22°C (59-71.6°F)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's what you use, it's quite possible you already killed them, or put them to sleep. Raising temperature might help, because you are not &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; from temperature that's OK for them, but be careful and do it slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T12:43:04.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16181" CreationDate="2015-09-23T16:39:26.497" Score="3" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old refrigerator that I use as a fermentation chamber for my beer. It can hold two fermentation buckets. It is connected to a STC-1000 temperature controller so it keeps the temperature stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I have two buckets in it (an american pale ale and a classic english bitter). They have been in the refrigerator for about a week at 18 C (64.4 F), and I usually leave my beer in there for at least three weeks, with a slight temperature increase after one week and a cold crash during the last three days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I just found out that I need to make two more batches that need to be ready in about four weeks (ales). That means I have to start brewing immediately.&#xA;The best I can do without using the refrigerator is a dark closet that has a temperature at around 23 C (73.4 F), perhaps a bit colder at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I move the beer in the refrigerator to the closet and use the refrigerator for the new brew, or should I leave it and ferment the new beer without any temperature control? I can't decide and I would like some opinions on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12464" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T19:16:29.867" Title="Fermentation temperature control" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-09-26T23:21:50.473" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16177" CreationDate="2015-09-23T17:06:03.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeas, moving what's in the fridge to the closet is a good plan.  Temp control is most crucial for the first 3-4 days.  After that, I always increase the temp to ensure complete fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T17:06:03.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16175" CreationDate="2015-09-23T17:18:38.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;4 days was likely a little early to start chilling it.  Most Ale yeasts will go dormant and start to flocculate if the temp drops significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend that you warm it back up.  Then carefully try to rouse the yeast by slowly swirling your fermentor until the yeast seem back up in suspension.  Don't do this until you've warmed it up first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a gravity reading as well, pre the swirl.  Then a second reading a week later will show you if you've got active yeast again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a lot of people like to try and make ale based Oktoberfests and that's fine.  I've done it a few times as well.  But you have to stick with an Ale schedule and not try and force it to be like a lager.  You'd have been better off using a lager yeast at warmer temps, than an ale yeast at too cold a temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T17:18:38.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-23T17:27:23.333" Score="2" ViewCount="573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0009JXYQY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bayou Classic KAB4 propane burner&lt;/a&gt;, which I've had intermittent success using to bring my wort to a boil. When I hook it up to a full tank it seems to work fine, but when I use a tank that is slightly less than full, it takes several tries for me to ignite it, and when it does, the flames are extremely small - even with careful adjustments to the fuel and air intake valves, the they die quickly. Just to make sure I'm not going completely nuts, when this happens I hook the tank up to my propane grill, and lo and behold, it works perfectly with my grill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do notice that when my burner is hooked up to a full tank, I can hear the characteristic propane hiss when I open the valve. With a tank that's &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; full, this hiss is much more faint. (With my grill, the hiss is the same no matter how full the tank is.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no leaks in the hose. I even took the burner into the homebrewing store where I bought it and the guys there couldn't find anything wrong with it. My workaround has been to swap out my propane tank for a full one every time I brew, which has been taking a steady toll on my wallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this makes any difference, but I brew in an open garage with both the burner and the tank on the ground, roughly at the same elevation. I've seen other brewing setups with the burner elevated. Would elevating the burner above the tank make a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I should check for in my burner, or do I need to modify my setup in some way so my burner will behave more consistently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6450" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T14:07:35.423" Title="My propane burner is hard to ignite, and when it does, the flames are small" Tags="|boil|propane-burner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16177" CreationDate="2015-09-23T19:16:29.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moving the beer from the fridge to the closet is preferred. Yeast are sensitive to temperature changes, they handle going from cold to warm much better.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Starting your fermentation at 23 C, while not terribly hot, will risk fusel alcohol production as the yeast are in a more hospitable environment and will consume the sugars more rapidly (by using these alternative, non-ethanol, routes).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Whereas the stuff that's been sitting in the fridge already (is probably more done than not) could have the benefits of rising to 23 C and helping the yeast clean up any diacetyl and acetaldehyde present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T19:16:29.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T03:22:55.730" Score="3" ViewCount="2264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried to use a refractometer when brewing.  I can never get an accurate pre-boil specific gravity reading that consistently aligns with my post boil, cooled wort hydrometer reading.  I spoke with another homebrewer who has the same issue.  He ultimately decided to defer only to the hydrometer.  Am I doing something wrong with the refractometer or is best to get a pre-boil sample, put in the refrigerator for awhile and then take a hydrometer reading?  There would still be time to make adjustments by boiling off or adding DME if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12689" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T05:23:18.723" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T05:23:18.723" Title="Specific Gravity: Refractometer and Hydrometer Disagree" Tags="|specific-gravity|refractometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16182" CreationDate="2015-09-25T09:38:13.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, refractometers vary, their quality is different from model to model. Temperature range they can work properly is pretty wide, but it's there. Make sure you are not outside it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, with your refractometer you should get manual and calibrating solution. Be sure to use these, without proper calibration readings will be off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, of course pre-boil gravity will be lower than post-boil (unless you add water during boil). You can calculate expected gravity knowing volumes, of course. If your calculations are inconsistent with your readings, maybe it's the volume measure what's off, not refractometer? Or maybe you made simple mistake in calculation? Happened to me, once...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T09:38:13.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16182" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:56:57.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to note is that your refractometer and your hydrometer are measuring different physical attributes of your wort. You need to account for these differences, and additional errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Refractometers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The refractometer is primarily measuring sugar content, through the difference in refraction relative to pure water. This is where calibration comes into play. Most instructions recommend calibrating against distilled water, and adjusting the refrac such that it measures 0 Brix|Plato. &lt;em&gt;I've mulled the merits of calibrating against the brew water, to account for any content that might give me a false positive/negative, but that's for another time.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you're using a small volume on your refrac, the temperature is quickly brought to ambient, so this shouldn't be a concern. However, if you haven't mixed your wort well prior to taking a sample, you will not get a representative value - remember your first runnings are densest and will have a higher value than your last runnings at the unstirred surface. This and proper calibration should mitigate any errors you'll get with using a refrac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hydrometers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydrometers measure the density of the solution, as calibrated against the density of water (usually at 15 or 20 C - this should be listed on the device or manual). This means that hydrometers are influenced by &lt;em&gt;all things&lt;/em&gt; in solution, sugars or otherwise. Solids generally don't contribute as they precipitate out. However, you're measuring more than just sugar. Of note, &quot;This method of analysis is most commonly a strewn with errors as&#xA;it relies on the viscosity of a substance which is heavily altered by the temperature of the sample. As the sample is heated it will decrease in viscosity and as it is cooled it will increase in viscosity. For this reason it is very important to always note what temperature your sample is upon reading with a hydrometer.&quot; (Brew 1204, Lab Manual, 2015)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rough conversion from SG (measured by hydrometer) and Plato (measured by refrac) is (((SG-1)/4)*1000). While not wholly accurate, it will likely be within an acceptable margin, given the errors that occur elsewhere in the process. This of course assumes the values were &lt;em&gt;measured at the same temperature&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably the biggest source of discrepancy, the temperature differential. We can assume that your refrac is essentially measured at ambient, (20-25 C?) but your hydrometer is at your wort temperature. It is therefore important to measure your wort temperature as you're taking your hydrometer reading. You can then &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;use a calculator&lt;/a&gt; to determine what it would read at ambient. Alternatively, you can cool your sample to ambient and then measure your SG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pre-Boil vs Post-Boil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your pre-boil gravity will inherently be lower than your post-boil gravity, as you are concentrating the wort over the course of the boil. This change in volume (your evaporation rate) will be moderately variable brew-to-brew, and generally ranges from 5-15%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to predict values, we need to know at least three of the four variables: pre-boil volume, pre-boil SG, post-boil volume, post-boil SG. The fourth variable can be calculated using (C1*V1=C2*V2) where C is your SG (just use the post decimal digits, i.e. 1.060 = 60) and V is your volume (any units will do so long as you are consistent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary / Biggest Source of Discrepancy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here again, accurate measurement using a refrac and hydromter require thorough mixing of the wort to ensure you're getting a representative sample. This and accounting for temperature differences are the biggest sources of discrepancy between refrac and hydrometer readings. Since they don't measure the same physical parameters, you can still expect a small difference between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastEditorUserId="12638" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T18:12:45.440" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T18:12:45.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T15:42:37.047" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apple Cider Base  6g&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 packet of Red Star Champaine yeast&lt;br&gt;&#xA;SG 1.073 with a final ABV of around 8.5% - 9.0%&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fermenting in a FastFerment 7.9 Gallon &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to end up with an off dry cider that does not have to be refridgerated after bottling. When I get to 1.01 SG I can remove any lees w/o racking it. At that point,can I let it carbonate in the ferment containter, then kill off the yeast prior to bottling? My goal is to have better control on the cider's outcome. I know it can be carbonated in a keg but I want to bottle it after it carbonates. Could'nt find the answer by googling question on the internet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12714" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T07:26:18.277" Title="Carbonating in the ferment container" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16188" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T17:11:01.963" Score="1" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've just put my second batch into primary. My first batch was the magnum apple cider which was quite bland and not strong at all. Wasn't sure to what I was doing but have done a lot of ready since then, but still need further help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone seems to have different opinions of ways to doing things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I've used 23litres of 100% apple juice from the local lidl, added what brewing sugar I had left which took the hydrometer reading up to 1.050. And then added a 5g sachet of cider yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going for a sweet, sparkling cider, kind of like thatchers gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my first go I used a pressure barrel, but I have a friend who owns a pub so will be getting plenty of bottles off him :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are, &#xA;  - how long do I leave in primary?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - do I have to put it in a secondary? If so how long is best?&#xA;  - can i syphon to bottling bucket then bottle from primary, missing secondary&#xA;  - what's the best way to backsweeten and carb cider, in a big batch or individual bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastEditorUserId="12675" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T17:23:44.300" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T13:10:07.303" Title="2nd batch cider started, unsure of future process" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16190" CreationDate="2015-09-25T21:56:24.600" Score="0" ViewCount="1408" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently got a lager kit brewing but not sure if it is ready to bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kit I have says to leave it for 10 days but I didn't seem ready then and had quite a strong apple smell to it although that seems to have got weaker since a few days ago. Should I leave it a bit longer or try warming it up a bit to get the yeast more active again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone had a similar problem? Still a bit of a newb to home brewing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12717" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T02:55:05.303" Title="Lager still smelling like apples after 2 weeks fermenting" Tags="|lager|primary-fermentation|acetaldehyde|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16189" CreationDate="2015-09-25T22:24:01.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The smell of apples is totally normal in beer fermentation. The chemical compound &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetaldehyde&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;acetaldehyde&lt;/a&gt; gives the characteristic green-apple flavor and aroma. It's an intermediate in the synthesis of ethanol from glucose by yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually warm conditioning is enough to reduce levels to below flavor threshold. Factors like not pitching enough yeast or not oxygenating/aerating enough can lead to elevated levels in finished beer. A lot depends on your exact fermentation strategy, so it would help to know more, e.g. yeast strain, how much you pitched, how you aerated, what temperature you fermented at, gravity readings, conditioning temperatures, &amp;amp;c., but typically this flavor goes away with conditioning, if you have healthy yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially with lagers, which can easily take 10-14 days to finish primary fermentation, I'd say patience is key. Let it go another week or two, trying it periodically to assess flavor and aroma. Let your senses be the guide to when it's done, not what the kit tells you (it can't ever take into account all the factors affecting the progress of your beer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T02:55:05.303" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T02:55:05.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16188" CreationDate="2015-09-25T22:47:16.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;main&quot; reason to use a secondary fermentation is to separate the largest sediments that could ruin the must (or generate off flavors). Ideally, you should do so before the end of fermentation, for a gas layer can be formed in the container and protect the must during the remaining maturation period.  Perhaps, rack at about 1.025 or after 4-7 days depending on the speed of fermentation.  This is pretty much what I do with beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your apple juice has been pasteurized, I would assume it is safe not to rack to a secondary fermentor. Personnaly, I have always racked to a second fermentor, so I can only guess here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to backsweeten, you will need to add some potassium sorbate, otherwize your remaining sugar might ferment in your bottles. Or you can use  non fermentable sugars to sweeten the cider (check with your local homebrewing store). It is also possible to heat the must to a certain temperature to kill the remaining yeast, hence preventing refermentation, but I have not tried that so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually prefer to rack my cider/beer just prior to bottle, to add my sweetener and/or sugar, this allows me to mix everything thouroughly so all my bottles are consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this is only my point of view and I am hoping to see other opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some interesting reading: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cider.org.uk/part4.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cider.org.uk/part4.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2015-09-28T13:10:07.303" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T13:10:07.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16186" CreationDate="2015-09-26T07:26:18.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not impossible but your equipment won't work well for this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First point-  if you want more control over the carbonation, you'll need a pressure gauge to see how carbonated the cider is (before you bottle). Otherwise the old ferment-add sugar-bottle routine will give better control over the carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second point- that fermenter you're using doesn't seem to be pressure rated. I suspect that even if the walls are very thick, the top or the airlock gasket will leak when the pressure builds up. Or pop off, making a big mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third- to kill the yeast you'll probably need to add metabisulfite, when the cider is already pressurized. That could be done with some kind of syringe &amp;amp; valve setup, if you feel like fabricating it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally- bottling carbonated cider might be quite messy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T07:26:18.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-26T17:27:47.420" Score="4" ViewCount="941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I missed read a cider making kit and put 3.5 kilos of sugar in it instead of 1.7?&#xA;Could I turn this in to wine by adding a wine yest instead of cider yeast?&#xA;Or any other advice please apart from read the correct instruction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;23L of Strawberry cider&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12720" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T03:18:08.577" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T19:29:47.000" Title="I misread a cider making kit, doubled the sugar" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-27T06:23:35.963" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I add Co2 to a fermentation tank or to a brightening tank and than bottle it or attach a line to the tap or do I have to put it in a keg? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12721" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T08:28:08.957" Title="Do you have to keg your brew in order to add CO2?" Tags="|co2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16224" CreationDate="2015-09-27T09:47:05.020" Score="1" ViewCount="7527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fermented and kegged a beer but noticed that the beer was not pouring very clear. It dawned on me that no clarifying agents were used in the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use gelatin to clear the beer, but the beer is already carbonated. Should I decarb the beer, or just add the gelatin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T03:07:34.337" Title="Can you add Gelatin to a carbonated, kegged beer?" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16194" CreationDate="2015-09-27T12:31:34.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally: no; most homebrewer-scale fermentation and bright tanks are not rated for pressure, though it really depends on what sort of vessel you're using. Some people do ferment directly in a keg, and use a &lt;a href=&quot;//homebrew.stackexchange.com/search?q=spunding+valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spunding valve&lt;/a&gt; to naturally retain CO₂ directly from the fermentation process, such that the beer can directly be served or bottled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T12:31:34.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-27T13:51:07.327" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay so I racked &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/16175/ale-yeast-at-cold-temps&quot;&gt;this experiment&lt;/a&gt; into a 6 gallon glass, slowly brought it up to 68F and re pitched with Safale05.  After 24 hours, there is very little activity.  One bubble every minute.  Is it possible that fermentation completed in the four days at 68F before I dropped the temp too low?  It was down to a rate of about 6 bubbles a minutes.  I don't know much about the gravity aspect yet (only my 4th batch), and just recently purchased a hydrometer.  The reading when I transferred it into the glass 2 days ago was 1.02.  The brew has a very clean finish with good flavors.  Should I bottle?  Should I dump it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MLAS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12722" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T03:20:06.597" Title="Ale yeast re pitch" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-27T14:15:31.060" Score="0" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;22 litres apple juice&#xA;Around 800 grams brewing sugar&#xA;3tea bags for tanning - saw this on another post, thought I'd give it a go&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm a couple of days into my primary and I'm going for a semi sweet cider&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I'm planning on doing and I'm interested to see if you guys think it will work, or advice to improve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started off with a reading of 1.055, I will leave it in primary til it drops down between 1.002-1.010&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transfer it to second tub add Campden tablets and cold crash it for around 2-3 days&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then transfer to bottling bucket, batch prime it, bottle it up and pasteurize on the cooker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T17:16:15.303" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T19:18:33.243" Title="Would ingredients and method work for a sweet, fizzy cider?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16202" CreationDate="2015-09-27T19:00:28.813" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to buy a pH meter like the one below, to more accurately balance acidity when making cider from fresh apples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More expensive testers seem to require the probes are stored in a solution to prevent them being damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do these less expensive testers need to be cleaned or stored in any kind of solution to prevent long term damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nns1o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nns1o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Handheld pH tester&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12723" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T01:15:20.563" Title="Storage of pH test equipment" Tags="|ph|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16201" CreationDate="2015-09-27T20:21:06.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, no matter what kind of pH tester you get, you need to store it with the probe in storage solution.  You'll also need both the 4 and 7 calibration solutions.  Some people say you can use the 4 for storage, but experts I've talked to recommend using the storage solution instead.  even with that, you may be looking at replacing the probe every few years.  If you don't need a very exact reading, which you may not for cider, pH papers may be a better, less expensive solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T20:21:06.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16199" CreationDate="2015-09-28T03:17:58.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Is it possible that fermentation completed in the four days at 68F before I dropped the temp too low?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's definitely possible, though it's really impossible to tell without gravity readings. Bubbles in the airlock are a fairly unreliable way to gauge fermentation progress, as they can be cause by other things besides active fermentation (sometimes you even see &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; bubbles during fermentation, due to leaks). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'The brew has a very clean finish with good flavors.'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's usually a good sign, but by no means a definitive indication of it being ready to bottle (a sign that fermentation has ended, that is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Should I bottle? '&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on if the beer's done fermenting. If not, there's no way to have good control over how much carbonation ends up in your beer. Get too much and you might have exploding bottles on your hands. Since you have a hydrometer now and you know it was 1.020 at the beginning of your experiment &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you've pitched fresh yeast, if the gravity reading stays the same a few days straight, that tells you there are no more fermentable sugars and it's safe to bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Should I dump it?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you want to drink it? You seem to indicate it tastes good. If so, don't dump it. Brewing beer is pretty safe, in that if you do it right you're all but guaranteed that what you have is safe to consume. Then it just comes down to whether you like the taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T03:17:58.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16194" CreationDate="2015-09-28T07:34:35.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also add fermentable sugars to a bottle or keg to carbonate the beer. You do not have to carbonate in a keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T07:34:35.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16193" CreationDate="2015-09-28T13:35:21.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use wine yeast to make strawberry cider/wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Champagne Yeast and some other wine yeast have an alcohol ceiling that varies from 14% to 18%, it will ferment most of your sugar.  Once the maximum alcohol is reached, the yeast dies, and the residual sugar will remain in your cider.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would measure the specific gravity to determine the maximum alcohol potential, then choose my wine yeast accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2015-09-28T17:56:53.600" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T17:56:53.600" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6058" CreationDate="2015-09-28T13:58:50.123" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is pretty old now, but I just found this thread, while searching for the same answer. In my opinion some of the answers given are a bit ambiguous, and are lacking references.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that some home experimentation would be well worth it, and with a little forethought and hygienic practice, should be well within the grasp of a homebrewer to run some experiments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be very easy to produce a good healthy strain of yeast in a reasonably controlled environment in a gallon jug producing a large amount of yeast available for harvest.  Even a wild yeast. I primarily only ferment Cider now. I have Harvested and propagated Wild Apple Yeast to produce a working Gallon Jug that will washed out to provide me with enough tubes of yeast to make a years worth of starters.  I consistently get good results and flavor from this method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would not be a huge effort to wash out several batches to be dried.  I would experiment by making some foil pouches, placing them onto a foil covered cookie sheet and heating them an oven to 300F. Shut down the oven and monitor for the temp to drop to 100F. At 100F remove a tube of Yeast Culture from the refrigerator, open the oven door, and pour the tube into a pouch, maintain 100F until it dries to a cake. Close the pouches (before removal from the oven) and store.  Once every few months pull a pouch, use it as if it were a package of dry, and add it to a cup of warm water with a 1/2 teaspoon of sugar and maybe a pinch of Nutrient and see if it blooms.  Not scientifically sterile, but as good as any home practice is.  Even if you pitch only a prepackaged yeast after heating your ingredients, you invite some level of unknown contamination while pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll let you know in a year how I make out...    :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12726" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T13:58:50.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16211" CreationDate="2015-09-28T23:20:21.393" Score="2" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my first batch this weekend (Scottish Ale) and have been keeping an eye on it during primary, largely out of curiosity but also first-timer's paranoia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We added too much water before pitching (lower than expected OG, 1.026-28 vs 1.034-38, and almost no head-space) and as a result it overflowed the airlock on the first night.  Luckily we planned for some overflow and now know to use a blow-off if we're going to do primary in a carboy, or so the Internet says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I'm still not sure about a few things.  In particular, there's a dark gunk in the neck of the carboy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNHzr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNHzr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dark, grainy gunk in neck of carboy.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After taking this picture the white layer (the krausen?) has gone away but the top, darker layer is still stuck to the top.  Is this okay?  The airlock is still releasing CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; but &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; less rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when we go to transfer the beer for secondary (to another carboy), will that darker layer magically be gone or will we need to scoop it out or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T01:06:04.670" Title="Special considerations for primary fermentation in a carboy?" Tags="|primary-fermentation|carboy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16214" CreationDate="2015-09-29T00:20:41.863" Score="1" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that bottle-conditioning is very standard in home-brewing.  I have found some reference to force-carbonation of beer but at a glance I assume it is really only done commercially with filtered beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/13515/12609&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; seems to contrast the methods very well but both the question and answer are a little unclear of whether force-carbonating would always be done in conjunction with filtering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is force-carbonation ever used by home-brewers (particularly when not filtering, if that's ever done)?  If so, why?  What effect would force-carbonating have on an unfiltered beer, particularly with live yeast still present?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T00:35:40.840" Title="Force-carbonation of unfiltered beer?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16209" CreationDate="2015-09-29T01:06:04.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a completely normal blow-off fermentation in a carboy. The krausen (in any ferment) will eventually subside and fall into the beer. As the krausen was pushed into the neck and walls of the carboy, some of it stuck to the sides. You don't need to transfer it. It generally won't fall off on its own, and you'll need to clean it off/out once you've racked the beer out of the carboy. You can use mechanical (carboy brush, swirling a rag around the inside) or chemical (oxiclean/pbw soak) means to clean the krausen, but you must entirely remove it before you can sanitize the surface before the next use of the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T01:06:04.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16201" CreationDate="2015-09-29T01:15:20.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All pH meters should be stored in storage solution to keep the electrode and reference junction damp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how much you are looking to spend, but I use this Extech model that sells for under $100 on Amazon: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00023RYQ8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Extech PH100&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a cap with a little sponge in it to hold the storage solution, which makes storage super simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12442" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T01:15:20.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9683" CreationDate="2015-09-29T01:23:24.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Green Deane at Eat the Weeds explains how to make your own vinegar. Vinegar is natural. Fruit flies attracted to your wine or beer fall in and the bacteria from their guts and bodies sours the wine. The same thing with fruit. I've got an experiment on the go. I had a peach that was breeding fruit flies and the goo smells like vinegar. I washed out some goo through a filter into some sugar water and wine yeast.  Also I have some Bragg's vinegar with the same. Using mason jars I have malt sugar and beer in one and just malt sugar and yeast in the other. Will see how it goes.&#xA;Once it has fermented I can pasteurize it or not if it seems wholesome or ditch it if it fails. Worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12730" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T01:23:24.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16210" CreationDate="2015-09-29T01:35:22.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Force carbonation is very common for homebrewers. I'd imagine any homebrewer with a kegging setup does force carbonation by default. I would guess, too, that it's much more often than not done without active filtering. Long primary, cold-crashing and careful racking will minimize the amount of yeast transfer for most styles and beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no signficant effect when force-carbonating beer with residual yeast. Once terminal gravity is reached, the yeast go dormant and simply don't contribute much to the beer going forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T01:35:22.277" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14824" CreationDate="2015-09-29T02:31:41.190" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Henry Taylor I dont think you understand the process of steeping the cocoa nibs in vodka. You are only using enough vodka to soak them, so we are only talking a few oz at most. 3oz vodka diluted in 5gal+ wort is about a &amp;lt;.5% addition. Good luck trying to boil that mess haha.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soaking the nibs in vodka insures they will be sanitized since they will be added at high krausen or soon after. The whole coffee beans are added late and only 24hr before racking to the keg and that isnt enough time for infection to take over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By no means are those additions artificial or extracts. They are very much ingredients as is corriander, honey, lemon peel ect. you get my drift. So chill out before you do some childish rambling of nonsense and bite your tongue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12731" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T02:31:41.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15729" CreationDate="2015-09-29T04:48:07.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a more specific breakdown of Homofermentative and Heterofermentative bacteria &lt;a href=&quot;http://lfbisson.ucdavis.edu/PDF/VEN124%20Section%204.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homolactic on hexoses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L. bavaricus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L. casei&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L. homohoichii&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L. curvatus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L. saki&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L. plantarum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heterolactic on hexoses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L. fermentum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L. brevis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L. buchneri&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L. fructovorans&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L. hilgardii&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12410" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T04:48:07.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16064" CreationDate="2015-09-29T15:15:07.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it should make a drinkable mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A drill is used in winemaking to degass in a carboy, but for a 2L bottle it might not be appropriate.  So if you really want a still mead with no gas, you can shake your bottle lightly and twist the cap slowly until you hear some gas coming out.  Do not open it completely, as it may overflow.  Repeat a few times until no gas is coming out (basically the same way you would degas any soda). Personally, I like some gas in my mead, cider, and even white wine, so I don't have the trouble to degas it. The only thing I degas is red wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I would recommend heating the honey a little (microwave or hot water bath), so it will pour more easily.  Heating the water/honey solution is optional, but makes it easier to mix everything well together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T15:15:07.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-29T17:03:05.570" Score="1" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 15lb of frozen elderberry. I just want to make a 1 gallon of wine for now.&#xA;Could I have some advice and a recipe please?&#xA;I just want to use elderberrys, raisins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12720" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T15:15:52.490" Title="Elderbery wine recipe" Tags="|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16223" CreationDate="2015-09-29T18:24:58.343" Score="0" ViewCount="3838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went and built a version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=29145&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this filtration system&lt;/a&gt;, but the only filter I could find at Home Depot was a 5 micron. The guy in that thread seems to be using a .5 micron. I have been using water coming out of a Brita pitcher (which I love the taste of), however it is very cumbersome to do it this way, which is why I wanted to do this. So I have a few questions concerning water filtration on this,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is a 5 micron enough? Is it to much?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why does Brita not tell what micron rating their filters are? Better yet, many of the filter manufactures seem to not tell it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Either way I go, should I drop a campden tablet in for good measure?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2288" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T16:14:50.707" Title="What micron level is good for carbon filtering your water?" Tags="|water|water-filtration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4685" CreationDate="2015-09-29T18:32:47.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of good answers already, but I will add my 2 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the &quot;Coopers DIY Home Brewing 6 Gallon Craft Beer Kit&quot; on Amazon, it cost me about 130$CAD last year.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kit contains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30x 740ml PET bottles, with priming sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 gallons graduated primary fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottling wand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ingredients for a first batch: A Lager concentrate kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hydrometer &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixing Spoon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermometer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can brew your first batch and then you have bottles and a fermenter that you can reuse...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get all the same items separately for the same price or less elsewhere, go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T18:32:47.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16221" CreationDate="2015-09-29T18:59:54.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;5 microns is fine for brewing water. At the micron/sub-micron level you're filtering yeast and flavor compounds. Some people do filter their &lt;em&gt;beer&lt;/em&gt; at this level for clarity/consistency/packaging concerns, but that's by-and-large not necessary itself. For most municipal water, you're looking just to filter macro compounds, and 5 microns is more than enough, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using an active carbon block, you need to run it below one gallon/minute to have a chance to break down chloramines, which your water supply might use. Chlorine and chloramine will be reduced almost instantly by a small amount (let's say 50µg/gallon to be safe) of Campden. My regular process is carbon-block filtration of my brewing water at a not-particularly-reduced speed, and add potassium meta-bisulfate (Campden) for dealing with chlormaines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T18:59:54.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16196" CreationDate="2015-09-30T05:31:37.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question: Yes.  You can add gelatin to a carbonated, kegged beer.  I've done it before, actually quite a bit.  One thing to be cautious of, adding gelatin to a carbonated keg will causing the beer to foam rapidly.  If you do it, I suggest pouring the gelatin in with one hand, and having the lid to the keg in the other hand, ready to quickly seal off the keg before it foams over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to note though, and I welcome others saying otherwise as I'd like to hear their process, but from my experience, when I forget to add kettle finings, gelatin is not sufficient enough to clear the beer by itself.  If I let the keg sit several weeks after I fine it, it will pour clear after several pints, but by itself, gelatin, doesn't seem to do as well as when it's used in conjunction to kettle finings like Irish Moss.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it does look remarkably better than no fining at all.  I'd recommend making sure the entire keg, top to bottom is near freezing, and perhaps maybe using a bit more gelatin than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow-up on your additional questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I add approximately half a gelatin packet to a mug filled approximately two-thirds full of warm water, let it rest for a moment to ensure all the gelatin is submerged (if you don't you risk clumps).  I then microwave it for about 1 minute to get it up between 160-180°F to kill off any bacteria, then add it directly to the keg.  Some people have come back debunking the theory of why boiling gelatin in the water is a bad thing.  My process works for me, it's easy and consistent, so I see no need to change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, yes.  You need to ensure your beer is as close to freezing as possible to ensure that chill haze has come into effect, the primary factor that will turn a cold beer cloudy.  If you're willing to put in the effort to make sure it's a consistent temperature across the entire keg (I've seen a lot of homemade keggerators where the temperature can be off by quite a bit, 10-15° worth, between the bottom and the top of the keggerator), you can add your gelatin, purge the keg with CO2, then give it a shake to make sure the temperature is even throughout.  Don't do this before you add the gelatin though, for the same reasons you don't want to shake a beer can or a soda bottle before opening it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastEditorUserId="1574" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T03:07:34.337" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T03:07:34.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16196" CreationDate="2015-09-30T05:32:10.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; experience, carbonated beer always clarifies more quickly than un-carbonated beer. Possibly because&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbonation will reduce the pH of beer. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbaa.com/publications/tq/tqPastIssues/2010/Abstracts/TQ-47-2-0607-01.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt;, the greatest haze intensity of a beer occurs right around pH 4.3 and haze intensity is directly related to haze-active proteins like gelatin's ability to reduce haze. Below &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; above this pH, the fining agent should not work as well. If your beer carbonated is closer to this pH than it would be &lt;em&gt;un&lt;/em&gt;carbonated (which I would guess it is) it should actually work better. Yeast flocculation also occurs most efficiently around pH 4.5 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbaa.com/publications/tq/tqPastIssues/1995/Abstracts/tq95ab42.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;see here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your beer tastes and smells just as you like it now (especially if it's a hoppy beer, but for many other styles as well) forcibly stripping the gas out so that you can fine it may actually detract from the quality of the finished beer, especially aromatically. Plus it sounds like a hassle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I think if everything about the beer &lt;em&gt;aside&lt;/em&gt; from the clarity is fine, you should probably just add the gelatin to the beer as it is. I can't think of any reason not to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T05:32:10.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T06:56:50.770" Score="1" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just finished my second all grain brew.  I failed to mash out and went straight from the mash to boil.  What difference will this make to my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12735" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T06:56:50.770" Title="Do you need to mash out?" Tags="|all-grain|mash|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-09-30T12:01:25.723" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16233" CreationDate="2015-09-30T13:41:28.437" Score="2" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a smoked porter batch from a concentrate my LBS was making and selling.  Before fermentation, I could easily taste the smoke flavour, but 2 weeks after bottling I could no longer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later, I made a small (4L) all-grain smoked porter, in which I &lt;strong&gt;mashed half&lt;/strong&gt; the smoked grain and &lt;strong&gt;steeped the other half&lt;/strong&gt;.  The smoked flavour was there after bottling, it was great. So I decided to scale up my recipe, and do a 20L batch.  This time the smoke flavour is more subtle, perhaps because the process was longer for this bigger batch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads me to think that smoke flavour tends to dissipate in the air during the brewing process, but I am not sure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to keep that smoke flavour in the beer as long as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I steep all my smoked malt, mash it all, or continue to do both ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T16:17:54.013" Title="Smoked Porter, should I mash or steep my smoked grain?" Tags="|beer|smoke|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16227" CreationDate="2015-09-30T14:45:05.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I typically do a partial mash, as I've found it to be a good balance of effort and results. So even when I say mashing, I'm describing more of a boil in a bag method than a proper mashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a smoked porter last year that I was very proud of. As I developed the recipe I steeped more of the grains and later versions had more depth to the smoke test. The early versions smelled very smokey, but had little of the taste, and later versions the smoke was more evenly distributed in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also changed my grain bill with different versions so it's hard to say what the impact was exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing, I bought smoked grains instead of smoking them myself and I think the freshness of the grains made the biggest difference. The smoked grains tend to sit on the shelf for longer and appear to have a shorter than average shelf life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T14:45:05.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16230" CreationDate="2015-09-30T15:22:20.853" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing milestones black pearl and have added 500g of malt extract. the wort started at an sg of 1060. It has been quite an impressive fermentation that is still continuing after 3 weeks but the sg for the last week will not drop below 1012. The instructions say to bottle once below 1009. Should I bottle now or wait it out. How long can it stay in fermenting bucket before going bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12736" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T15:37:47.287" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T15:41:41.443" Title="continous fermenting" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16229" CreationDate="2015-09-30T15:41:41.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.012 is a very reasonable terminal gravity for a 1.060 OG stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gravity is stable over the course of multiple days, than it has reached its terminal/final gravity, and you can proceed to bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer can stay in the primary fermentor for weeks, yet, without worry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T15:41:41.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16227" CreationDate="2015-09-30T16:10:09.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of smoke aromatics being driven off during the brewing process as much as you describe.  However, if you smell the smoke while brewing obviously its coming out of the pot, much like hop aroma or malt aromas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than focus on a method that results in retaining the aromatics, it would be easier to just add more smoked malt to start with and dial it up each consecutive brew until its where you like it.  Treat it as a recipe issue rather than a process issue. I have found that to be the easiest route to success when I am trying to ramp up or down a given characteristic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T16:10:09.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16221" CreationDate="2015-09-30T16:14:50.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;0.5um is perfectly fine for water filtration.&#xA;Keep in mind that the porosity of the filter is only good for removing non-solubilized particles in the water.  Its the activated carbon or other elements that you want for neutralizing things like chlorine or other hazardous contaminants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in the Britta, the pore size isn't whats stripping out the soluble flavor molecules that make the water taste odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T16:14:50.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16227" CreationDate="2015-09-30T16:17:54.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smoked malt is made from base malt...I've never seen it any other way.  That means you should always mash it so you don't end up with unconverted starch in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T16:17:54.013" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16196" CreationDate="2015-09-30T16:34:56.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly add it to carbonated beer.  I prepare my gelatin in water heated slowly to 150F.  Stirring it until its totally dissolved, then letting it sit at room temperature for 5 minutes to be sure the dissolved gelatin has completely hydrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open the keg top and pour it in.  Reseal, purge with CO2 quickly and shake it around some to be sure its distributed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had foaming issues when doing it this way.  If you were to put powdered gelatin in then sure it will foam.  But I've never had a gushing keg with prepared gelatin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, gelatin works best when Irish Moss has used.  Irish Moss pulls out many polyphenol precipitated proteins created in the kettle (hot break).  Gelatin is good at pulling down yeast and too a lesser extent polyphenol proteins.  Gelatin alone has a hard time doing both.  And adding more thinking you'll get both can just create a gelatin mess in the keg and clog up the dip tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T16:34:56.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T18:05:14.083" Score="1" ViewCount="2778" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be a silly question but how do I reduce the alcohol content in my home brew cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done two tests and they are coming out about 8% for the cider. I would like to bring it down to about 4-5%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12694" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T08:15:37.373" Title="Help reducing alcohol content in cider" Tags="|cider|first-time-brewer|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16235" CreationDate="2015-09-30T18:09:46.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing really fancy, here: dilute it with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T18:09:46.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16200" CreationDate="2015-09-30T18:13:04.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding this question :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I stop primary at a certain fg and bottle it or do I HAVE to wait till dry then backsweeten it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can stop your fermentation at a certain specific gravity by bottling and pasteurizing. It will get the sweetness you want, but will not be as much fizzy because it will not ferment in the bottle .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the fizzy cider, you can bottle ferment it, so it seems easier to me to use a non fermentable sugar to keep the sweetness and a fermentable sugar to get the fizzy you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T18:13:04.247" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16235" CreationDate="2015-09-30T18:20:32.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may use apple juice to dilute it as well, if you like to keep more flavor than if you use water...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my maths are good, if you add as much liquid as you already have, it should cut the alcohol percentage from 8% to 4%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T18:25:40.673" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T18:25:40.673" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16246" CreationDate="2015-10-01T02:25:56.973" Score="1" ViewCount="868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought 10 gallons of freshly pressed unpasteurized apple sweet cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am breaking it into two batches, planning to ferment one of them with french wine yeast and the second one will be naturally fermented. It will be my first time doing the fermentation naturally... What's the appropriate fermentation temperature for natural yeasts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T22:01:09.833" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T22:01:09.833" Title="Temperature for wild-yeast fermented cider" Tags="|fermentation|cider|fermentation-temperature|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16245" CreationDate="2015-10-01T05:39:21.937" Score="1" ViewCount="1286" Body="&lt;p&gt;Started my first batch of Cider! YEY!&lt;br&gt;Got me some nice juice from the orchard nearby. It was only pasteurized when i got it, no campden tablets or sulphites to kill the wild yeast.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Started fermantation on 20.9, after 4 days i noticed some light sulphur smel, got me educated a bit and droped some raisins to feed the hungry yeasts. Temperature droped 2 deg Celsius, weather is changing to more cold one.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Q;&#xA;Have this lightly sulfur smell, got me pack of nutrients will pitch it tomorrow, how long does it take for the sulfur smell to go away? Or how does it work now in this stage of fermentation? &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I know that idealy i should drop some nutrients w the yeast but didnt get it on-time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12741" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T07:15:07.937" Title="Light Sulphur smell" Tags="|fermentation|cider|aroma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-01T08:25:13.607" Score="2" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use original apple juice to back sweeten cider and I also want to add, say, 100 grams of brewing sugar to carb. One litre of juice has 50 grams of sugar, does this mean I should only add 50 grams of brewing sugar? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Numbers are made up just for use of example &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T20:37:56.263" Title="Back sweeten and carb cider" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16193" CreationDate="2015-10-01T10:16:24.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding a different yeast does not change the type of product. Using a wine/cider/beer yeast can change the flavour, but if the base fermentable is apple juice then the drink will remain a cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Although Ales and Lagers are different products, they are both still beers. I have used champagne yeast in a high alcohol beer that I made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, all that you will end up with is a cider with about twice the amount of alcohol that you planned. Not a train smash... usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible solutions are: (assuming you made a 21 liter batch)&#xA;1. Ferment it as is, with the cider yeast. See what it tastes like afterwards.&#xA;2. Split the amount into 2 buckets and add liters of (sanitized) water to each bucket and 5 liter of (sanitized) apple juice. Or just use 10 liters of apple juice extra in each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T10:16:24.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16123" CreationDate="2015-10-01T10:22:17.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few options, but the most obvious (what I did on my first batch) - Are you sure you added ALL the water? Did you get the +- 21 liters of wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise: how cold was the sample you were measuring? The colder it is, the higher the hydrometer will read. You have to take readings at the temp that your hydrometer is calibrated to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or: Test your hydrometer in some tap water. it should read 0 or very close to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you did not do a full boil: Did you take your sample BEFORE or AFTER you added the extra water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T10:22:17.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16241" CreationDate="2015-10-01T10:28:26.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sulphur is (unfortunately) a side product in some fermentations. Lagers also tend to throw a LOT of sulphur during fermentation! The good news is: If you can smell it, it means it is no longer in your cider! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are making a very strong cider, I do not think that adding nutrients now will make a difference. Your fermentation should be nearly complete after 4 days in any way. [&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: Cider does not ferment the same speed as beer, so my comment regarding the 4 days is incorrect!]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not need to feed the yeast with raisins. They should eat the sugars that are in the must. If they have done with the sugars they will fall to the bottom and your cider will be ready for consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Pasturization should kill wild yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastEditorUserId="3056" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T07:15:07.937" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T07:15:07.937" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16240" CreationDate="2015-10-01T14:00:34.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Natural yeasts like natural temps :p&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend ale fermentation temps, somewhere between 16 C and 20 C. You can go higher, but that will give you higher alcohols. Going colder will probably make the yeast go to sleep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T14:00:34.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16235" CreationDate="2015-10-01T14:01:56.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your recipe includes adding any sugars then you can just leave those out or reduce the amounts as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T14:01:56.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16180" CreationDate="2015-10-01T14:07:35.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would replace the regulator. A high pressure regulator should resolve your problems. I have one of these and I can run three big burners even when the gas is low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told this is called a Red Devil Regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xqzgs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xqzgs.png&quot; alt=&quot;Red Devil&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T14:07:35.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16241" CreationDate="2015-10-01T15:57:12.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that making cider is a lot more like making wine than making beer.  I ferment my ciders for several months.  That allows time for them to clear and for off aromas to ferment out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T15:57:12.707" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-01T16:03:25.240" Score="1" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;3 lbs / 1350 grams fresh elderberries&#xA;1 lb / 450 grams sultanas&#xA;3 lbs / 1350 grams sugar&#xA;8 pints / 1 gallon water&#xA;1 teaspoon citric acid&#xA;1 campden tablet&#xA;Wine yeast&#xA;Yeast nutrient&#xA;METHOD - WHAT TO DO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strip and crush the berries and boil with water. Strain through a sieve and place liquid in a bucket. Add the sugar and the citric acid and when cool add the campden tablet and yeast. Leave to ferment for five days stirring daily and then pour the liquid into a demijohn and seal with an airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Store the wine in a warm place and allow the fermentation to work itself out. When fermentation has ceased, rack the wine into a clean jar and place in a cooler environment and leave for a further few months. Rack again and leave until the wine is stable. Leave for a further six months and bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;****What do I do with the sultanas and can I have a little more detail please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first attempt at making my own from scratch**** &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12720" LastEditorUserId="3056" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T07:09:48.647" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T09:28:25.447" Title="Adding sultanas to homebrew" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16031" CreationDate="2015-10-01T18:26:27.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no right or wrong here, but it struck me that this recipe will produce a relatively dark wort for an IPA, and your results might be a bit more on the malty side than most IPAs tend to be.  If that's what you're going for, great! Otherwise, you might consider replacing the amber extracts with pale versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there a good reason to use both LME and DME?  You might simplify things a bit by picking just one or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2366" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T18:26:27.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11620" CreationDate="2015-10-01T19:01:57.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option to consider, if you can spare $20-30 or so, is to get a portable CO2 charger such as this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewstuff.com/keg-charger-co2-injector-with-ball-lock.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewstuff.com/keg-charger-co2-injector-with-ball-lock.html&lt;/a&gt; along with a couple 16g CO2 canisters.  This won't be an effective means of carbonating the beer (rely on priming for that), but it would work for purging the keg, and aid in dispensing.  Also makes a handy backup down the road when your full-size CO2 tank runs dry at an inconvenient moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2366" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T19:01:57.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16242" CreationDate="2015-10-01T20:11:02.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some research, and here is what I came up with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Apple juice contains different type of sugar, mainly:  &lt;strong&gt;Fructose&lt;/strong&gt; (~56% of the sugar), &lt;strong&gt;Glucose&lt;/strong&gt; (~24% of the sugar) and &lt;strong&gt;Sucrose&lt;/strong&gt; (~20% of the sugar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this may vary depending of which apples, but it gives us a good idea.&#xA;Fructose and sucrose are pretty much completely fermentable, and glucose (also known as dextrose) is 80% fermentable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing this, we can conclude that apple juice sugar is about &lt;strong&gt;95% fermentable&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your example, if you have 50 grams of natural sugar in one litre of juice, about 47 grams are fermentable.  Adding 53 grams of brewing sugar should bring your total to 100 grams of fermentable sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://healthyeating.sfgate.com/natural-sugars-found-apples-9193.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Natural sugars found in apples&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewerylane.com/beer/fermenting-sugars.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fermenting sugars&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=61459&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HBT forum about dextrose&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T20:11:02.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16031" CreationDate="2015-10-01T20:50:34.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that Vienna malt needs to be mashed.  Although if you steep it for 45-60 min. at about 150F, that will be pretty much the same as mashing.  Also, amber extract will have crystal and other malts already added to it.  I'd recommend using the lightest extract you can find, preferably dry, then add your own specialty malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T20:50:34.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16256" CreationDate="2015-10-01T23:01:56.667" Score="2" ViewCount="1655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in an area with hard water and I usually treat my water with a campden tablet. It's usually fine but I'd like to try something different. Can I boil my water the night before brew day and leave in the HLT with lid on ready for the morning? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this have any adverse effect on the water? I'm aware that heating it twice may remove some oxygen, is that a problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3432" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T20:39:36.453" Title="pre-boil water the day before?" Tags="|boil|water|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16255" CreationDate="2015-10-02T06:02:29.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Can I boil my water the night before brew day and leave in the HLT with lid on ready for the morning? '&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you can. This will help reduce chlorine and other volatile substances,  precipitate calcium carbonate if you have excess &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_water#Temporary_hardness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicarbonate, or temporary, hardness&lt;/a&gt;, and sanitize the water by killing microbes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Will this have any adverse effect on the water?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Adverse&lt;/em&gt; is a relative term, depending on your goals. If you want to get rid of excess temporary hardness, chlorine, microbes and any other volatile substances, then no, there really aren't adverse effects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were making a darker beer though (where the darker specialty grains would serve to lower the mash pH), the boiling could remove some of the water's ability to counteract this pH change (its hardness) and you might end up with too &lt;em&gt;low&lt;/em&gt; a pH. This is why brewing dark beers is particularly well suited to water supplies with high levels of bicarbonate hardness. However this is a concern &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; if you have high &lt;strong&gt;temporary&lt;/strong&gt; hardness. Boiling has no effect on permanent hardness in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'...heating it twice may remove some oxygen, is that a problem?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Strictly speaking, oxygen is even bad on the hot-side of the process (though it's probably not quite as adverse as oxygen on the cold side). Right before pitching yeast is really the only time oxygen should be added to beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T20:39:36.453" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T20:39:36.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9795" CreationDate="2015-10-02T07:21:32.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a little add on to Grahams comment.  Yes Sodium hypochlorite is a bleach because of its basic chlorine base. However it deteriorates rapidly. It is not typically offered in large bottles because of it's short shelf life of less than six months. Extending past the shelf life means it becomes a poor cleaning agent as it becomes predominately salty water. Secondly it is light sensitive. It needs to be stored in dark bottles in a cool dark place to maximise it's life. It is most often recommended for butcher's trays and bench cleaning not homebrew hardware cleaning. In fact it is actually more expensive to use than Sodium Percarbonate, Sodium Metasilicate, or acid salt no rinse foam sanitisers you will find in local home brew stores. Beware of the brewing foibles, there are a lot out there and solely based on saving a few cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12744" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T07:21:32.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-02T16:22:44.460" Score="2" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have a 22.5 litre fermenting bucket and a 22.5 litre pressure barrel but accidently purchased a 9 litre Belgian beer kit.Is it still ok to ferment and store this smaller quantity in these larger receptacles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12746" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T13:54:59.127" Title="brewing and storing small quantities in large receptacles" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16258" CreationDate="2015-10-02T20:30:46.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's absolutely fine to do, though the extra head-space might make for some minor difficulties in process. Things I can think of to watch out for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are taking regular gravities (which is always a good idea) it may be hard to draw them off a half-full fermenter. Siphon some out with a sanitized tube, in a pinch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you look for a bubbling airlock as a sign of fermentation, you may not see nearly as much bubbling with so much extra head-space, even in a leak-free vessel. Checking the gravity or visually inspecting the krausen can help you assess the state of fermentation alternately. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you transfer into the pressure-barrel, you should do your absolute best to purge it with inert gas first (CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; or nitrogen). More head-space means more oxygen to displace in order to mitigate its ill effects on finished beer (think stale, wet-cardboard-y flavors and aromas). Even if you did a secondary fermentation in the barrel (priming with sugar to carbonate), without purging there would be way more O2 in such a large container than the yeast could effectively assimilate and neutralize. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's really fine to do, but it will probably amplify some issues you might not think/worry about with, say, a full 15-20L batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T13:54:59.127" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T13:54:59.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16258" CreationDate="2015-10-02T20:55:06.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermenting should not be a problem, but I am concerned about the pressure barrel for storage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The huge head space is a danger for oxidation, but also a problem for cabonation.&#xA;Unless you plan on using a CO2 cylinders to carbonate your beer, using priming sugar will be very hard considering the huge head space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not buy a second kit and make it a 18L batch ?  Problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T20:55:06.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16273" CreationDate="2015-10-03T13:29:45.220" Score="2" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a batch of beer that has been in primary for about a week and we are getting ready to rack to a secondary fermenter.  We want to experiment with the difference between doing primary only and both primary and secondary fermentation.  We have 5G total and are planning to transfer about half into a 3.5G carboy and bottling the rest now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for primary-only we've seen recommendations to leave it for two weeks, so I'm a little concerned our test isn't really going to contrast the two approaches.  Will there be a significant difference between:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottling the primary-only batch after a week but leaving bottles for the extra week to let the primary-secondary batch catch up and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leaving the batch in primary for an extra week (assuming we weren't disturbing it by transferring a lot of it for secondary) and having it bottled for a week less?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T17:08:29.577" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T17:52:32.060" Title="Experimenting with primary-only and primary-secondary fermentation" Tags="|techniques|bottle-conditioning|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16262" CreationDate="2015-10-03T14:40:10.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to experiment with the difference between &quot;primary-only&quot; and &quot;primary-secondary&quot;, then rack half of your batch into a new fermentor, and bottle both halves at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T14:40:10.263" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16269" CreationDate="2015-10-03T20:29:29.393" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making some homemade mead and I just pitched my yeast. My must has quite the gradient to it. The top is a light brown where the yeast is then it fades to golden toward the bottom. Should I attempt to mix it or is it probably okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2145" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T15:58:58.080" Title="Freshly Pitched Yeast at top of Must" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16268" CreationDate="2015-10-04T14:48:23.213" Score="1" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making my first batch!  Using a Brooklyn Brew Shop kit, and did the active part last night.  I've got the jug in a cool/dark place and it it bubbling away, sending CO2 through the tube in the top of the jug into pot of bleachy water.  My question:  why bother taking out the tube and installing the airlock, like the instructions say to do after a couple of days?  Why not just leave the tube in there, going out to the bleachy water?  Seems to serve fine, but then there might be something I haven't considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12756" LastEditorUserId="12756" LastEditDate="2015-10-04T15:36:53.327" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T16:54:38.423" Title="Why bother with airlock when I can just leave the tube going to the bleach water in place?" Tags="|fermentation|airlock|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16266" CreationDate="2015-10-04T15:18:33.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can leave the blow-off tube in place if you like. It is just a big airlock, anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T15:18:33.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16266" CreationDate="2015-10-04T15:48:50.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: sure, that is fine and jsled is absolutely right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer: the other thing to consider is just don't bother with blowoff, which I assume is the reason for the bleach water setup, and just use an airlock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think being really concerned with blowoff is probably a side-effect of following old Charlie Papazian instructions or people who followed his lead. I know he said blowoff gets rid of a lot of unwanted gunk and fusel alcohols that affect taste of the finished product, but I'm not so sure that's true in a negative (or any?) way and I don't think large breweries tend to worry much about blow-off either. Plus it seems to me there is a slight risk of infection from using/changing blowoff tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need  blowoff if your vessel is too small, but nowadays I personally would use a bigger vessel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T15:48:50.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16264" CreationDate="2015-10-04T15:58:58.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing your recipe, I would say leave it alone.   Probably just a matter of some particulates in the must weighing  more than others.  I think two things will happen: (1) the yeast will probably stir things up and (2) as it ferments the liquid will clear anyway and particulates will settle at the bottom of the vessel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my view, the risk of infection with stirring generally exceeds any probability of benefit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T15:58:58.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16266" CreationDate="2015-10-04T16:54:38.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using an airlock certainly makes handling the vessel easier as it's all self contained, but hopefully you won't have to handle the vessel much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I liked using an airlock because it was a more compact and simple setup. However, after having a batch overflow the airlock and make a mess while I was out of town  my wife insists that I use a blow-off. I'm happy to do that as there is little functional difference between the two and using the blow-off tube eliminates the chance of making a mess again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T16:54:38.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16262" CreationDate="2015-10-04T17:37:18.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a good test of what you are looking to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2014/08/12/primary-only-vs-transfer-to-secondary-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2014/08/12/primary-only-vs-transfer-to-secondary-exbeeriment-results/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the conclusion of the test:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once all the data was collected and I wasn’t worried about blowing through these kegs of beer, I started serving it to people stopping by. On a few occasions, with folks who hadn’t completed the survey and knew nothing of this exBEERiment, I served the 2 beers one after the other. Once the second glass was empty, I’d ask, “Which one did you like better?” The response 100% of the time was some form of, “I didn’t know they were different.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12754" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T17:52:32.060" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T17:52:32.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16377" CreationDate="2015-10-04T21:18:26.833" Score="3" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to purchase some type of water filtration system to produce water that contains negligible amounts of minerals. Currently I purchase distilled water from Walmart, and I want my water filtration system to be that good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was under the impression that a standard home reverse osmosis system with a carbon filter would do this. However, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/articles/treating_homebrew_water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MoreBeer states&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Reverse osmosis. Reverse osmosis (RO) involves passing water through a series of individual pressurized membrane filters that remove organics, inorganics, microbes, and some minerals. The “bulk water” machines frequently found in grocery stores often use reverse osmosis to treat the local water and usually carbon filter it as well; this water usually sells for $ 0.25–0.35/gallon. It is essentially similar to very soft spring water or distilled water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am confused because they say it removes &quot;some&quot; minerals, but then state that the R.O. water you buy at a store is &quot;essentially similar&quot; to distilled water. It goes on to imply that Deionization/Ion Exchange would remove all the minerals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I really want to get 0ppm water (or insignificant amounts of minerals), would a reverse osmosis system be sufficient, or would I need an additional ion exchange component?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit: added the term deionization, which apparently is different than ion exchange]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T17:46:49.760" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T17:51:28.570" Title="Do Reverse Osmosis water filtration systems produce water with negligible amounts of minerals, or is an additional deionization component required?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16262" CreationDate="2015-10-04T21:47:20.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;That depends on the question you want to answer.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;bottling the primary-only batch after a week but leaving bottles for&#xA;  the extra week to let the primary-secondary batch catch up and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the beer taste if we bottle a week early?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;leaving the batch in primary for an extra week (assuming we weren't&#xA;  disturbing it by transferring a lot of it for secondary) and having it&#xA;  bottled for a week less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do we really need to transfer the beer before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My advice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a week the beer should have reached terminal gravity.  At this point the yeast spends some time cleaning up some fermentation by-products, primarily diacetyl and acetaldehyde.  At New Republic Brewing we start taste testing for diacetyl at terminal gravity.  Once it is no longer perceptible we prepare the beer for packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will likely end up with a better beer if you test your second question by transferring some of it to a secondary vessel, leaving the remainder in the original fermenter.  Bottling now may not give the yeast a chance to clean up after itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T21:47:20.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-04T22:14:39.753" Score="1" ViewCount="3164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought that carbon filtration removed both chlorine and chloramines from water. However, the seller of a reverse osmosis system on Amazon &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/forum/-/Tx1JN3TLQ942N9R/ref=ask_dp_dpmw_al_hza?asin=B00IB14XDU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;answered a question&lt;/a&gt; with this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This system can remove up to 99% of chlorine. A different inline filter will need to be added in order to remove Chloramines as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular unit has two carbon filters, one in the beginning and one in the end, both are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Premium Quick-Connect coconut shell activated carbon filter. Nominal 5 Micron Rating GAC Acid Washed Carbon &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there different types of carbon filters, some that would filter out chloramine and some that do not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I received a response from the seller:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Standard carbon filters can remove traces of chloramines from a water source, but to effectively remove it up to 99%, you would need a carbon filter that uses &quot;catalytic carbon&quot; media inside it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T23:08:53.270" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T23:08:53.270" Title="Do Some Carbon Filters Remove Chloramines, While Others Don't?" Tags="|water|chloramines|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16274" CreationDate="2015-10-04T23:54:26.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Are there different types of carbon filters, some that would filter out chloramine and some that do not?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sort of. As long as you're dealing with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Activated_carbon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;activated carbon filters&lt;/a&gt; they will provide the necessary components for the chemical reduction of chloramine. The difference , though, is whether or not they provide the necessary surface area of activated carbon &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; the correct flow rate to effectively reduce it &lt;strong&gt;in one pass&lt;/strong&gt;. My guess, then, is that (at least in the eyes of the seller) this unit has either insufficient surface area &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; too high a flow rate to effectively reduce chloramines in the single pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;~edit~&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a good review of chlorine and chloramines &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; methods for their removal, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/ajdelange/Brewing_articles/BT_Chlorine.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;~edit ii~&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=mROkAgAAQBAJ&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;dq=brewing%20science%20and%20practice&amp;amp;pg=PA63#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=charcoals%20from%20different%20sources&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This book&lt;/a&gt; specifically makes mention of coconut-shell carbon filters, in reference to differences in filtration performance based on carbon source: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Charcoals from different sources differ in their adsorbtive capacities and the types of substances that they remove best. Bituminous coal, anthracite or coconut shells, as examples, are pyrolysed, giving products that are predominantly microcrystalline graphite.'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it doesn't expand on specific differences between various sources, but it does suggest that the carbon source itself could account for some variation in expected performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T01:00:54.017" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T01:00:54.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10345" CreationDate="2015-10-05T00:57:52.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;old post, i know, but....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i run about a gallon of boiling water through mine before use, then sanitized water.  as soon as im done, i flush with water.  i run another gallon of boiling water (slow and over about 5 - 10 min) making sure the counter water is emptied.  after that i blow compressed air through both sides if the chiller so there is no standing water left over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12757" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T00:57:52.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3807" CreationDate="2015-10-05T13:10:20.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentionned by Denny and Mlusby, adding more yeast is not the way to go to speed up things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast can be more productive at certain &lt;strong&gt;temperature&lt;/strong&gt;, so I would rather focus on controlling the temperature in my fermenter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making a yeast starter can also save so time in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T13:10:20.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16272" CreationDate="2015-10-05T16:14:25.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Compared to any kind of ground water, RO has fewer minerals. It's not quite as pure as double distilled water that might be used in a (biology) lab, but very close. Possibly cleaner than rain water (which picks up CO2 from the air, and dust). For brewing, the amount of minerals is negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ion exchange, on the other hand, doesn't remove minerals. It simply exchanges one that might be bad (like calcium: bad for for your plumbing, lead: bad for health) with one that is acceptable, like sodium. AFAIK these systems don't do anything to the negative ions (Cl-, SO4--, etc); they are mainly intended to remove metals and calcium. And since they are only replacing them with other ions, you won't necessarily end up with pilsener water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purified drinking water, like Dasani and maybe the stuff at your local store, might be RO with minerals added to improve the taste. Maybe it would be fine for some styles, if you can find out what's really in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T16:14:25.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-05T17:18:47.197" Score="1" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 x 23L carbouy's full of freshly pressed juice, ready for fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I began the process by killing off all the wild yeast strains in the apples by adding 1 1/4 teaspoons of sodium metabisulphide to each carbouy and let it sit for 48 hours before pitching the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the 48 hours, I added my yeast (which I started the day before with Juice + Yeast until it started boiling then refrigerated to ensure I get a good fermentation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day I removed the yeast from the fridge for 2 hours - saw the yeast bubbling and dumped it into my juice (with 1 cup of liquefied brown sugar to each carbouy for good measure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after a week now, I still have yet to see the fermentation process begin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The carbouys are in a dark wine cellar (80% humidity/ 16-18 degree celcius).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what might be going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be any of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sodiummetabisulphide is still in the must and not allowing the yeast to begin - do I add more yeast? do I add a yeast booster?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temperature is too low - what temperature should it be at?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12761" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T15:39:01.613" Title="Cider - Yeast doesn't seem to kick off" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2114" CreationDate="2015-10-05T18:42:54.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I have learned is that yeast when first pitched needs oxygen to grow strong and multiply, that is why it's best to introduce oxygen either by oxygen tank setup or agitation of the wort before pitching the yeast. The co2 gas emitted during the first few days of fermentation would be detrimental to health and vigor of the yeast and that is why during the first few days degassing the wort is essential for a good fermentation. .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12765" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T18:42:54.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16274" CreationDate="2015-10-05T23:07:58.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received an email from the seller and will post it as a potential answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Standard carbon filters can remove traces of chloramines from a water source, but to effectively remove it up to 99%, you would need a carbon filter that uses &quot;catalytic carbon&quot; media inside it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T23:07:58.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="640" CreationDate="2015-10-06T00:21:11.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewtarget, Open source software, allows you to create, scale, and add notes to recipes, ingredients ..etc &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you can use it on mac windows and linux, or if you want build from source on your solaris machine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me I sync the Database on several machines using Dropbox, but you can use almost any file sharing service to keep your changes synced up on multiple machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtarget.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewtarget.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T00:21:11.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16320" CreationDate="2015-10-06T02:11:17.517" Score="2" ViewCount="11626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to do a lager this winter, since I don't have a good way of controlling temperature, I was wondering if it is possible to bottle it with priming sugar, and then lager it? Or should I just move it to secondary to lager, then bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the benefits of doing it either way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2023-02-01T00:55:10.840" Title="Can I lager in bottles?" Tags="|bottling|lager|lagering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16284" CreationDate="2015-10-06T03:49:31.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a quote from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.org/Lagering--Chapter-1-Common-Misconceptions_ep_58-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;homebrewing.org&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two important processes at work when a beer is in long-term cold-storage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Precipitation: Take a certain amount of liquid, warm it up, and you can obviously dissolve more solids into that same volume. Take that same warm liquid, and cool it down, and the amount of dissolved solids that it can contain will decrease. Those solids will precipitate, or re-solidify and fall to the bottom of your storage container. (The simplest version of this process is what we all know as cold-crashing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aging: All the chemical reactions going on in your beer — good or bad — take place much more slowly in the cold. As it happens, though, most of the processes you dont want are slowed down more. An extended period of cold storage builds up the benefits that you do want, with less of the effects that you dont. (With some important exceptions: see the discussion of Diacetyl Rest, in the next chapter.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aging process will happen no matter the storage container. You will still have some proteins, hops, etc that fall out and form a small sediment layer in your bottles. It's a personal preference for how big of a deal that is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12766" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T03:49:31.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16296" CreationDate="2015-10-06T13:00:17.470" Score="5" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last weekend I tried it. I get considerably less broken hulls, practically whole. Kernel was broken all right. So far so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added 0.5 liter of cold water to six kg of malt by pouring it slowly while stirring malt continuously. Waited about half an hour, stirring it once in a while. I milled it with roller mill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, mashing to negative iodine test took not one hour, but two. OK, after one hour solution was free of starch, but stirring still released more of it, while it normally does not, at that point. After 2 hours solution was starch-free even after stir, but I heated to mash-out really slowly, just to be sure. Total time - 3 hours instead of a bit over one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall efficiency was unchanged, 90% of theoretical maximum, perfectly consistent with my usual results - but it took over twice the time. Can there be causation along with correlation, or can I assume it was just a coincidence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T14:42:06.340" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T14:02:12.667" Title="Can wet crushing impede mashing?" Tags="|all-grain|mash|crush|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-06T15:24:05.907" Score="4" ViewCount="2068" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had any luck/experience using graham crackers in a pumpkin ale recipe?  I've seen some people using graham cracker &quot;extract&quot; with some luck, however, I'm referring to using actual graham crackers in the mash and/or secondary.  The intent is to get a rich &quot;pie crust&quot; flavor (ex: ST Pumking).  FYI, I'm already planning to use Victory malt at about 10% of the grain bill.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11963" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T14:12:26.540" Title="Adding graham cracker flavor to a pumpkin ale" Tags="|flavor|ale|pumpkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16280" CreationDate="2015-10-06T15:39:01.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A week is a long time, fermentation should occurs in the first 3 days in general.  A starting gravity of 1.049 seems good, I got 1.050 for my last batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would check the yeast package for the ideal temperature and bring it to the highest point (16C is probably too cold). For instance, WhiteLabs  WLP775 Cider Yeast recommends a temperature between 20C and 24C (68F to 75F).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If controling the temperature is not enough, I would repitch some yeast, follow the instructions on how to hydrate the yeast and add some yeast nutriments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have 2x 23L carboys of apple juice in my cellar, they did start to ferment after 2 days (but I put some heating the second day to help, to bring temperature close to 22C).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T15:39:01.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-06T16:50:04.310" Score="0" ViewCount="3492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got my first home brew kit for blackberry wine, can I use normal household granulated sugar instead of brewing sugar? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12769" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T17:25:40.443" Title="can I use granulated sugar in place of brewing sugar?" Tags="|wine|fruit|sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-10-06T22:14:04.697" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16289" CreationDate="2015-10-06T17:25:40.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You absolutely can.  I do it all the time and have done it dozens of times.  No problem at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T17:25:40.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-06T17:57:50.563" Score="0" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had brewed one gallon and I let it ferment and then let it sit... I think it has been two months or so after the recommended fermentation of this particular brew. I know it won't continue to ferment or anything but I am wondering if you just let it sit for that long does anything bad happen? Or could I just bottle it like normal and not get sick or anything!? Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12770" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T19:13:25.520" Title="Sitting to long after fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-10-06T20:14:20.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16291" CreationDate="2015-10-06T19:13:25.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two months isn't all that long. Some beer styles are routinely aged for that long or even longer. You might need to add a little fresh yeast to ensure good carbonation. Other than that, you should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T19:13:25.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10194" CreationDate="2015-10-07T08:50:39.467" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Calculate by reduction of the sugar content. i.e if sugar content is reduced by x amount then CO2 generated will be x * volume of vessel* density of liquid in the vessel *44/46&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12775" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T08:50:39.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-07T11:16:23.260" Score="2" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;As we know it, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stevia_rebaudiana&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stevia rebaudiana&lt;/a&gt; introduces herbal sweetness in form of calories-free, non-fermentable &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steviol_glycoside&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;steviol glycosides&lt;/a&gt;. I'm tempted to use it with my beer, but I honestly have no idea where to start. Dark caramel beer would be dangerous, because herbal sweetness might go bad with caramel. So what style could use sweetness that has nothing to do with malty sweetens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far my best bets are sweet double AIPA, to match stevia with american hops, and rice beer (3kg malt, 2kg not malted rice) that has very low malty anything, and thus allows hops and spices to really show themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T23:46:55.057" Title="What beer style would be good to enhance with Stevia rebaudiana?" Tags="|ingredients|recipe|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13297" CreationDate="2015-10-07T12:46:35.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the comments under your question, this is probably due to the fact that the sugar did not evenly mix with the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to avoid oxidation (always a good idea, indeed), you might want to prepare a sugary solution beforehand. The day before bottling, boil some water (not much, to not screw your final density) and dissolve the sugar in it. Let it cool down in some properly sanitized container, then use it in the bucket on bottling day. That way, instead of having to mix multiple times during bottling (to avoid having the not-quite-dissolved sugar settle down at the bottom), you can just give it a quick swirl when beginning, and you're ready to fill the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3494" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T12:46:35.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16286" CreationDate="2015-10-07T13:32:42.223" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing textbooks I referred to universally state that the gap between the rollers of the mill needs to be much closer together for wet-milling. You don't mention making any adjustments, so I'll assume you didn't. Since the husk is made more elastic by conditioning, the dangers of pulverizing it with too tight a mill are eliminated, and in fact it may do a better job breaking down the endosperm, which also may have become less friable during conditioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would fit with your experience of a very slow conversion and starch going into solution when the mash is stirred, which could be explained by (counter-intuitively) too &lt;em&gt;large&lt;/em&gt; a grind. Or put another way, while wet milling helps the husk hold together, it may also help the starchy parts stick together too, creating a potential issue of over-large endosperm bits which don't easily gelatinize or solubilize. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few quotes, as mentioned above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;During [wet] milling they are gently squeezed flat by the large rolls (400mm, 15.75in. diameter; 440rpm, &lt;strong&gt;gap 0.30±0.45mm, approx. 0.012± 0.018 in.&lt;/strong&gt;) of the mill, squeezing out some of their contents.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; &lt;sub&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=mROkAgAAQBAJ&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;dq=brewing%20science%20and%20practice&amp;amp;pg=PA186#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=steep%20conditioning&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;[In wet-milling, t]he rollers are closer together than in dry milling (&lt;strong&gt;0.35 – 0.45 mm apart&lt;/strong&gt;)&quot;&lt;/em&gt; &lt;sub&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=TIYbNdrIsPEC&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;dq=handbook%20of%20brewing&amp;amp;pg=PA395#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=wet%20milling&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;The gap between [the rollers], which may vary from &lt;strong&gt;0.25 and 0.40mm&lt;/strong&gt;, can be continuously adjusted.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; &lt;sub&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=Kly3oQEACAAJ&amp;amp;dq=technology+malting+and+brewing&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0CB0Q6AEwAGoVChMI--DopbuwyAIVC44NCh34bgWd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the same books give ranges between 0.6 and 1.5mm for gap spacing in two-roller mills used with dry malt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T14:02:12.667" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T14:02:12.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16300" CreationDate="2015-10-07T22:45:38.520" Score="2" ViewCount="1599" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every guide and youtube video out there suggests that one should grind apples before pressing them. Even in industrial settings the apples are ground first and then pressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not just press whole apples? There would be less oxydation too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12777" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T13:27:22.653" Title="pressing cider from whole apples" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16287" CreationDate="2015-10-08T07:12:15.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never tried it, but if I wanted to I would rather add grains that have that flavour (pilsner malt) as opposed to adding the actual cracker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Added on request]&#xA;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weyermann.de/downloads/maltwheel/Weyermann%C2%AE_Malt_Aroma_Wheel%C2%AE_Whole_Kernel_and_Wort_EN.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;document&lt;/a&gt; (25Mb) from Weyermann Maltings that shows the flavour charts of their malt as well as the resulting wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastEditorUserId="3056" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T08:26:12.830" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T08:26:12.830" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16284" CreationDate="2015-10-08T07:20:23.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lagering is done un-carbonated. The beer is left to clear in a cold (close to 0C/32F) room for a few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, no, you can't lager a carbonated beer in bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT: you can bottle condition, and afterwards leave the beers for a few months in a cold area to allow the particles to settle out (what happens in the lagering process). The difference is that, after &amp;quot;real&amp;quot; lagering a clear beer is bottled and there will be very little to no sediment in the bottle. Your bottle conditioned beer will have sediment in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cold conditions help speed up the clarification process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that lagers tend to be &amp;quot;delicate&amp;quot; beers, you do not want to age them too long in a warm area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T13:23:27.530" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T13:23:27.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16297" CreationDate="2015-10-08T12:51:16.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Force. Sphere is most resistant shape to crushing. That's why eggs are roughly spherical, and thin shell can support hen's weight, and more. Pressing whole apples would require much higher forces than pressing grounded ones.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Efficiency. Grinding breaks peel, and to some extent it also breaks cell walls. It helps juice flow freely. You can overcome that, to some extent, by applying even more force.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to press whole apples, but it's harder to do, gives you less juice, and require more durable, and thus more expensive hardware - with dubiously better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T12:51:16.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11263" CreationDate="2015-10-08T13:09:19.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mash from the grains and use maltodextrin to improve head retention, as well as a beer heading liquid containing propylene glycol alginate(PGA), which helps to stabilise the head and prevent collapse of the bubbles. The look and condition of my beers has drastically improved since using these additives but I'm not sure which is most reponsible. To get a good head, the label on the maltodextrin packet recommends adding about 10g (= a third of an ounce)to a 22.5 Ltr(= 5 imperial gallon) brew, AFTER fermentation and just before bottling(same time as I add 10ml of the PGA).  This is a lot less maltodextrin than the heroic amounts needed to increase body and sweetness, such as 500g or a pound in weight to a similar brew. I would rather avoid a turgid beer laden with maltodextrins to make it heavier and sweeter tasting.  Although the maltodextrin is not readily fermented by yeasts, it is rapidly broken down and utilised as sugar in humans. I prefer not to add more than necessary to my sugar intake while drinking beer! I prefer it dry, hoppy and clean tasting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12779" LastEditorUserId="12779" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T13:24:47.327" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T13:24:47.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16297" CreationDate="2015-10-08T13:27:22.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apples are grinded first because it makes juice extraction and pressing easier.  It is the same process with grapes and wine.  Grapes are first crushed, macerated and then pressed.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also allows to get some juice to macerate the solids and extract flavor,  color, etc.  After pressing, the solids usually become compressed hard, making maceration difficult to achieve successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also control the quality better, if you notice any rotten apples (or worms), you will be able to remove them before pressing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for oxydation, it is a lesser concern at this stage as there is no alcohol produced yet. Acetobacter cannot produce acetic acid when there is no ethanol.  Other contaminants (dust, flies, bacteria...) can be dealt with easily with proper sanitation, covering the containers... the usual precautions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T13:27:22.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11413" CreationDate="2015-10-08T13:55:20.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wanted to add the results of my experiments with Clarity Ferm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made 3 batches so far with it, in three different styles: an American Pale, a Belgian-ish Saison, and an Amber Ale.  I didn't do an A/B test with and without the Clarity Ferm on any of them, but none of them tasted noticeably different than other batches that I've done from the same recipes.  (In other words, they were within what I'd define as the 'margin of error' of my personal homebrewing.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For two of the three batches, I tested the resulting beer using a home gluten test kit, specifically the &quot;EZ Gluten&quot;, which offers both a 5 ppm and 20 ppm variable sensitivity.  The first batch tested, the American Pale, was tested and registered negative at the 20 ppm gluten level.  The second batch, the Saison, was tested and reported negative at the 5 ppm level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both seemed just fine to my spouse, who has celiac disease (but is fine with food under the normal 20 ppm threshold).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all three batches, I poured the entire &quot;test tube&quot; of Clarity Ferm into the batch just after pitching the yeast and before aerating.  I obtained the Clarity Ferm from a local homebrewing supply in one case, and via mail order in the other two cases; it didn't seem to affect it in terms of effectiveness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 3 more gluten test kits so I plan to continue to test other styles; so far I haven't done an especially grain-heavy brew.  But at least so far it seems like by far the best method to produce a low-gluten beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12780" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T13:55:20.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16308" CreationDate="2015-10-08T19:27:28.473" Score="1" ViewCount="1565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to start collecting bottles to use when I brew.  Recycled bottles come in many types.  I would naturally steer away from the twist off bottles, bottles that seem thinner or more fragile, or plastics..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I am going to keep recycling the glass bottles, what determines how they can be recapped and what is the basic thing to look at when finding the bottles that will work with your average caps sold in the supply store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this is not a duplicate question, but I did not find this from my searches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12417" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T20:46:28.710" Title="What kinds of bottles can be capped?" Tags="|bottles|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-08T20:30:18.910" Score="2" ViewCount="813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually see activity in my yeast starters in the first twelve hours after pitching the yeast. This time, however, I haven't seen anything for 48 hours. No bubbling, no signs of floating yeast and it still smells like unfermented wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made the starter as I always do. 3 liters of 1.040 (10 °P) wort with a quarter teaspoon yeast nutrient, cooled to ~22°C (71.6°F) and oxygenated using an air pump with a filter before pitching the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is White Labs WLP500 Monastery Ale Yeast. The best-before date is December 31, 2015.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be worried or is a delay this long normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12464" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T21:38:28.980" Title="How long should I expect to wait before seeing activity in my yeast starter?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16304" CreationDate="2015-10-08T20:31:53.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just about any glass bottle that isn't a twist-off will work.  Even though the bottles may look different, the lip which accepts the crimp cap is standardized, and will accept any cap sold in homebrewing stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also mention that the thickness of the glass is not that important; even the thinnest bottle glass (assuming it's not chipped or cracked) will be able to reliably withstand the forces of recapping.  Some say that certain bottles (e.g. Woodchuck shorty bottles) are too flimsy to reuse, but I've never had a problem with those using either a wing capper or a bench capper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T20:31:53.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16304" CreationDate="2015-10-08T20:32:27.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, just get one unused cap and test if it fits. There is one common size so it's usually easy to just see, but testing is the best way anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for safety, most bottles are made to be recycled. Look them for any chipping glass, any dents, scratches etc. Don't use bottles with any defects like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see anything like mold, don't keep this bottle. Or at least think twice. It's easy enough to remove during industrial cleaning process, but hard at home. Pretty much the same thing with trash like cigarette butts, it's hard to be sure you washed them good enough, and it may stink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And last, see for defects like air bubbles in glass, or uneven surface. These bottles probably shouldn't leave factory in the first place. Trow them away for your own good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T07:31:57.433" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T07:31:57.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16304" CreationDate="2015-10-08T20:36:27.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;h3&gt;It depends on your capper.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand-held cappers&lt;/strong&gt; will not work with twist-off glass bottles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Table top cappers&lt;/strong&gt; will work with pretty much all glass bottles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule would be that if the bottle was capped once, it can be capped again.&#xA;Try to cap it when it is empty or with water, it's only going to cost you a cap and you will know for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some countries, some bottles are returnable and sometimes thicker than those that are not.  Be careful using bottles that look fragile, they may break, I have seen many comments about hand held cappers disasters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional information: &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/malt/item/416-can-homebrewers-use-twist-off-bottles-for-their-beer?&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BYO article about reusing twist cap bottle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Just found this other post related to this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/279/reusing-twist-off-bottles&quot;&gt;Reusing twist-off bottles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T20:55:18.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16305" CreationDate="2015-10-08T21:38:28.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you taken a gravity reading? I've had starters that have very little &lt;em&gt;apparent&lt;/em&gt; activity that are fermenting right along. It can be tricky to take a gravity sample for a low-volume starter, but with 3L you should have enough to work with to solve this problem w/o overly reducing your cell count. Also, is the starter on a stir-plate, shaken periodically or just sitting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T21:38:28.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16304" CreationDate="2015-10-09T06:25:15.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Caps/bottles are not universal and certain beers have special sized openings/caps. Which means that the easiest way is to take a clean bottle, pour colored carbonated water into it, cap it, shake the bottle and hold it upside down. Leaks should immediately be visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for the &quot;default&quot; bottle that most breweries use. Where I stay almost all the breweries use the same three type of bottles, and they are all made by the same company and can easily be recapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only use these &quot;defaults&quot; or occasionally I will just buy a case or two of these from the manufacturer. It also makes your beer look more professional if all your bottles are similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T06:25:15.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16312" CreationDate="2015-10-09T10:12:00.503" Score="3" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this problem: I'm regularly achieving 90% efficiency with my mash and sparge, and I like this effect. But I usually end up with about 30 ~ 35 liters when I aim for 20 ~ 22 liters. Boil to reduce water takes long time. So I need to reduce amount of water used without loss of sugars. How can I do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current procedure, shown on most recent example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took 6kg of malt (weighted when dry), wet-crushed it, and mashed it in water. Total volume of malt + water was about 20 ~ 22 liters. I received about 13~15 liters of first wort at 18 &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;°Bx&lt;/a&gt;. Then, before my filter bed got anything near dry,  I started to pour sparge water. I ended up sparge at 2 &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;°Bx&lt;/a&gt;, ending up with a total of 35 ~ 37 liters. I didn't mix it up right away, because I don't have pot large enough, so can't tell exact gravity, but at the end I got bit under 22 liters at 17.2 &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;°Bx&lt;/a&gt; - perfectly consistent with BrewTarget (expectation was 22 liters at 17.1 &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;°Bx&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any way to recreate this result without getting to boil away 15 liters of water? Where I might went wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note - dry vs wet crushing does not change anything in that regard. Wrote it just for completness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sparge and filtering, I'm using this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://molot.deviantart.com/art/Filtering-bucket-492335345&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D9U6U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of filtering bucket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except now it's full metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T15:58:12.450" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T16:34:19.523" Title="How to increase gravity / decrease amount of water in my wort, and extract the same amount of sugars?" Tags="|boil|sparge|efficiency|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16311" CreationDate="2015-10-09T13:27:58.817" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your high efficiency is due to using a lot more water than you need, washing every last bit of sugar out of the mash. Ultimately, you want to collect less wort. This will result in a lower efficiency. As such, you'll need to use more grain to account for the lower efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had 22L at 17°Bx, then you started with 35L at 10°Bx with 90% efficiency. If you instead want ~25L (assuming about a 10% evaporation for a 60 minute boil, ymmv) at ~15°Bx, and assuming 75% efficiency, you might need to use ~30% more grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X units grain * 90% extraction = 10°BX * 35L , X = 388&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Y units grain * 75% extraction = 15°Bx * 25L, Y = 500&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;500/388 = ~1.29&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But your brewhouse is going to have its own particulars, so brew, measure, math and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T16:34:19.523" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T16:34:19.523" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16287" CreationDate="2015-10-09T14:12:26.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't use commercially produced Graham crackers, as these will contain unconvertible starches, oils, fats, preservatives, etc that can wreck your beer. Also, you can never assume that a finished flavor will transfer into a fermented product like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was on a quest once to get &quot;graham cracker&quot; flavor into a brown ale, and while I never got the perfect flavor I was seeking, i got relatively close by using &lt;strong&gt;CaraBrown from Bries&lt;/strong&gt;. CaraBrown is a hybrid crystal/roasted malt that's fairly available, and it specifically lists &quot;toasted, biscuity, nutty, graham cracker flavors&quot; in its description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rebelbrewer.com/shop/brewing-ingredients/grain/specialty-grains/grainother/briess-carabrown-by-the-pound&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.rebelbrewer.com/shop/brewing-ingredients/grain/specialty-grains/grainother/briess-carabrown-by-the-pound&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The graham cracker flavor was very fleeting, by my recollection of that batch, but was noticeable, and my mild / brown ale with CaraBrown was once of my better batches of that style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T14:12:26.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-09T16:12:48.723" Score="6" ViewCount="602" Body="&lt;p&gt;So during a cold crash I sucked around a quart of StarSan onto my beer, there's a layer ~1/2 inch thick sitting on top of the beer. Should I try to siphon off this top layer, or wait until i get a keg (a week or two) and just rack whats underneath it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12784" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T14:38:59.530" Title="Layer of StarSan on beer" Tags="|sanitizer|starsan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-09T20:05:29.307" Score="1" ViewCount="1221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made cider from my apple trees and hand pressed them and all and I am having trouble figuring everything out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have made the hard cider two different ways my first time, to test both and eliminate waiting for them to ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using cider yeast for both of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used for my first batch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 liter cider &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 tbs honey &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enough yeast for 1 gallon ( due to having no way to measure it accurately)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been sitting for 7 days not with little bubbles still filling my balloon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a carboy but my container doesn't fit it well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second batch is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 gallon cider &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 packet of yeast ( good for a gallon)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been sitting for about 4 days and is very bloated the bottle ( being that it's plastic and the other ones glass).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one doesn't have any balloon on it just a cap sealing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When will I know if they're done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I bottle them correctly with still allowing them to have some carbonation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I pasteurize them will that kill the possibility of having it carbonated when I bottle it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone know the answers to these please feel free to be as detailed in your answer as possible because YouTube videos and reading online always leaves grey areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12786" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T23:02:51.897" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T23:33:29.420" Title="Cider confusion" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|carbonation|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16304" CreationDate="2015-10-09T20:46:28.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can tell you what has worked for me and my hand-held capper. All are from the perspective of being produced in or imported to the Northeast USA (NYC):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tecate and Carta Blanca &quot;quart bottles&quot; - I really love these things, and now do virtually all my bottling in these. I'm giving away all my other bottles! The downside is you have to dispose of the urine the bottles come with. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sierra Nevada 12oz short bottles&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;various brown 24oz and 32oz craft brewery bottles (probably seen with Sierra Nevada, Brooklyn Brewery, and others)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;These breweries: Sam Adams bottles (they tend to have the company logo imprinted on them, but work fine), Arrogant Bastard, Brooklyn Lager, Samuel Smith; virtually all American craft breweries seem to use very standard brown bottle heads, regardless of size or imprints&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;clear Corona bottles cap nicely&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if visually inspect the top of the bottle you can usually tell, or at least will be able to teach yourself to tell after a few tries.  Most of my bad experiences have been with green bottles.  Many green bottles do work.  I have a bunch that I'm not even sure I remember the origin of, but I remember specifically having a problem with Heineken bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T20:46:28.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16315" CreationDate="2015-10-09T23:14:37.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cider can take a while to ferment. Without a lot of the natural yeast nutrients from malt, cider can be a &quot;slow&quot; ferment as the yeast are at a disadvantage. At the same time, cider is mostly completely-fermentable sugars, so the yeast will get there, in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best way to understand fermentation is gravity readings, accomplished by using a hydrometer: a carefully-weighted, calibrated device which is used to measure the concentration of sugar in a liquid. These are inexpensive. However, for very-small fermentation volumes, you might be hard-pressed to take a disposable sample for the gravity reading. If you're careful with sanitation, you may be able to take the reading directly in the fermentor, if you can easily introduce and remove the hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I'd say, give it a couple/three months and you should be assured it is finished fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what you mean about the carboy and the &quot;container&quot; that does not fit. Can you elaborate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bottling, there will be residual yeast in the cider. Bottle-carbonation is achieved by adding a bit of &quot;priming sugar&quot;: just enough to achieve carbonation. The residual yeast will wake up and consume that sugar, adding carbonation in the sealed bottles. There are plenty of online guides about the amount (based on the type) of priming sugar to add to achieve the desired amount of carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pasteurize, then the yeast will be killed. There is really no need to pasteurize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T23:14:37.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16315" CreationDate="2015-10-09T23:33:29.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the technical answer:  In order to find out when your cider is ready to drink or to bottle and how strong it is in alcohol, you really need a hydrometer.  This is a floating glass gauge that tells you how much sugar is dissolved in the juice. You should check the OG(Original Gravity = concentration of sugar in the original apple juice) after crushing.  Then after fermentation you should check the FG(Final Gravity = concentration of sugar left in the cider after most has been fermented by the yeast and turned into alcohol). Hydrometers have a mark on the gauge showing you when to bottle beer or wine.  Cider will be similar to beer. There is a formula to calculate the strength of the cider from OG and FG measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the practical answer: It is now too late for you to measure the OG.  Hopefully you like your cider dry.  If so, you just need to leave the cider until it stops fermenting and producing bubbles, maybe a couple of weeks.  Then you can add sugar(about a teaspoon per pint) to each bottle and keep it sealed to get a secondary fermentation and produce sparkling dry cider. If you try and drink the cider before fermentation is complete it will be sweeter but also hazy and cloudy while fermentation is going on.  Cider needs to be rested and stored to get it clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not like dry cider, it is not easy to make proper sweet cider without filtering out the yeast before fermentation is complete, or adding more sugar to completely fermented dry cider and then filtering out the yeast, or pasteurising it to kill the yeast. Sparkling sweet cider is even more of a challenge...you need to filter out the yeast under pressure before all the sugar is used up, or pasteurise under pressure(not in my house!), or add sugar to completely fermented still dry cider and then artificially carbonate after filtering or pasteurisation. Otherwise the fermentation will carry on until the cider is dry. Commercially they can do these procedures on a large scale but it would require a lot of work for the average homebrewer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12781" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T23:33:29.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16284" CreationDate="2015-10-10T00:52:24.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks Staros, for the link...But I think www.homebrewing.org answered it pretty well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewing.org/Lagering--Chapter-3-Advanced-Tips_ep_59-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lagering - Chapter 3: Advanced Tips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottling A Lagered Beer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you're planning on bottling your lager, then you should really consider putting it into bottles before you go into the secondary fermentation stage. There are two important considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Agitation:&lt;/strong&gt; The secondary fermentation process is meant to get your beer crystal clear, by forcing the remaining solids to fall to the bottom of the storage vessel. Moving around a carboy, and siphoning beer — after your clarification should be complete — only risks stirring up sediments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warming:&lt;/strong&gt; Unless you're bottling your beer in a meat locker, the transfer process will also warm your beer a bit. Combined with the agitation, you're creating the perfect conditions for it to re-absorb some of the solids that you've just worked so hard to eliminate.&#xA;  So, as a rule, while it's always easier to do the primary fermentation in a single large bucket or carboy, if you want to eventually have bottled lager, you're better off doing the bottling at the end of your diacetyl rest. That way, you can just pull out the bottles when you're ready to drink them, and you'll be pouring the clearest beer possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T00:52:24.630" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16314" CreationDate="2015-10-10T03:54:49.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry too much about it. As @valverij said, StarSan is safe to drink at this concentration. I would try to siphon most of it off, especially if you need to move the beer before kegging. Moving it will likely mix the beer with the sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;StarSan in water is almost without any smell or taste, so I don't think it will affect your beer much even if you leave it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12464" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T03:54:49.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16327" CreationDate="2015-10-10T10:30:11.180" Score="1" ViewCount="557" Body="&lt;p&gt;In May I brewed the following beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;81% Pale 2 row malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;16% Brown malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3% Black malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single step mash at 73C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 290g of hops for a total of 103 IBUs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OG was 1.077 and it went into primary fermentation at around 18C on 9th May. With an old vial (around 1 year after the best used date) of WLP007 Dry English Ale (I made 2x 1.5l starters for it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So on the 16th May i checked again and it dropped to 1.036, waited and on the 5th June it still was at 1.036 (figured the fermentation was finished?) so I racked into the secondary and added 50g of Burbon soaked oak chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the 27th of June I racked it of the oak chips as the beer already had a heavy tanninic/woody/unpleasant note.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I didn't have any space in the cellar I moved it into the flat and stood there (no bottles for filling) at around 23C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then the fermentation started again. The airlock got activity and by the 9th of September dropped down to 1.009.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now 9th of October it went down to 1.006 and activity is still present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was wondering what happened? It is a very attenuative yeast but down to 1.004 should not happen especially with the high mash temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So possibly contamination with a wild yeast? The beer is at the moment quite hash, but at that IBU and alcohol content with not much sugar left it is no wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about waiting for the residual fermentation to stop and then adding lactose to get some sweetness back in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12788" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T20:51:46.053" Title="Possible wild yeast contamination?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16323" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16382" CreationDate="2015-10-10T16:00:03.013" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;When mashing apples with a rotary masher, the mash and juice gets quite oxygenated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this contribute to the acidicity of the raw apple juice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12777" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-09T16:55:38.917" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T16:55:38.917" Title="Does oxydation contribute to the acidicity of raw pressed apple juice?" Tags="|mashing|oxidation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2015-10-11T02:03:08.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I create a label in PaintShopPro (even Microsoft Paint would do).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The information that I usually put on the label:  Beer name, type, bottling date and %alcohol, I also add a few lines/images to make it prettier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I print on regular paper (6 labels per sheet).  After cutting my label to size, I use a paper glue stick to attach my label to a bottle.  They stick well, but they can be taken out very easily by soaking the bottle in water for a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my process in details : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.creationquebec.com/beer/how_to_label.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to create a beer label&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has worked quite well for over a year.  Here is my latest label:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/in4Kv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/in4Kv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;custom made beer label&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2015-10-11T02:08:57.633" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T02:08:57.633" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-10-11T02:03:08.580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1115" CreationDate="2015-10-11T16:30:21.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes I found them at Midwest supplies.  They are just a bit smaller than 7 ounces though...about 5+ ounces.  24.99 for 24 bottles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12790" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T16:30:21.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14952" CreationDate="2015-10-11T20:31:04.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the attachment back to the homebrew store and they replaced it and attached trhe replacement themselves. Since then I have used the bottle for several batches. I guess it was a defective gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1990" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T20:31:04.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16322" CreationDate="2015-10-12T06:57:50.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess that it is has become contaminated, but the easiest way to determine would be to taste &amp;amp; smell the beer. If you get sourness or any off-flavours (vomit, rotten vegetables, butterscotch, burnt plastic) then you have contamination(yeast or bacteria).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer still tastes fine, then it may be that your yeast is just exceptionally hard working. The higher temps may be what is waking them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lactose might help, but I would be wondering if you are not throwing money at a bad beer. Pour a glass and see if adding lactose can save it. If it does taste better, then all is good (please let us know). Otherwise, dump or still the beer and brew it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T20:51:46.053" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T20:51:46.053" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16314" CreationDate="2015-10-12T07:01:09.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No worries, BUT: take your beer out of cold conditioning and let it warm up to diecetyl rest temperature. You will see some action in your airlock as the yeast consume the chemicals that are in star san. Wait until activity has finished and then cold crash again with out adding more star san! :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend using a bubbler when cold crashing as the liquid will not be sucked into your beer. Otherwise, put a loose knot in your blow-off tube, this can create the same effect as a bubbler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T07:01:09.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-14T08:51:33.863" Score="3" ViewCount="1674" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since yeast will generally eat any sugar you add to your must/cider, adding sugar for sweetness in home-brewing isn't really an option unless you get more elaborate and pasteurise, etc. So artificial sweeteners are the obvious option to allow bottle-conditioned sparkling cider with sensible ABV and a nice level of sweetness... especially the modern trend of sweet &quot;fruit ciders&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what artificial sweeteners are commonly used and easily purchased? There are so many used commercially and some have noticeable flavour (in a bad way) to different people... for instance my wife loves Sprite Zero and Coke Zero but finds other diet sodas have a nasty after-taste from sweeteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sweeteners make sense for home-brewing, and what are their pros/cons? How should I choose which one to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They need to be non-fermentable&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastEditorUserId="12662" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T12:25:57.597" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T19:29:00.250" Title="What types of artificial sweetener are normally used in fruit cider in the UK &amp; US?" Tags="|cider|sweetness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-14T12:53:22.140" Score="2" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;my dad and uncle are homebrewers and they desperately need a labeler. They've talked about getting one before but have more important things to get first in order to perfect their beer. So for Christmas, I'd like to get them one so they can stop using paper and glue. On bottling day, they bottle about 100 bottles and they bottle probably once every 2 weeks. If anyone has any suggestions as to which labeler would work best for them, I'd greatly appreciate it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12796" LastActivityDate="2023-07-13T05:54:50.947" Title="Bottle labeler suggestions" Tags="|bottle|labels|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10243" CreationDate="2015-10-14T13:22:58.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can probably find sugar contents for various fresh fruit online but if you don't trust this, another option would be to look at frozen (not tinned) fruit in your local supermarket because it should tell you by law the amount of sugar per 100g. That will give you a great idea of the maximum/likely ABV you'll achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T13:22:58.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16331" CreationDate="2015-10-14T15:09:23.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For fancy reusable labels you could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grogtag.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grogtags&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With those you design it on their website then they print and ship to you.&#xA;Not a label maker, but its the only thing I could think of that's like what you described.&#xA;Most at home labelers are paper based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T15:09:23.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16331" CreationDate="2015-10-14T16:21:32.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I can suggest a small Zebra printer.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many models that can print on removable labels of 1&quot; up to 4&quot; wide.  It usually comes with a software that allows you to design a label and print as many as you want (a roll will contain about 800 labels).  The price would vary depending on the model (for about 200$ to 400$ you should get a good printer).&#xA;Some more expensive models will even cut and peel the labels for you.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there are so many models and options, I would contact a vendor to get the best printer for this specific work.  Don't forget to buy removable labels, the permanent ones won't come off even after soaking...  You can take a look at their website for details : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zebra.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.zebra.com&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T16:21:32.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16330" CreationDate="2015-10-14T20:08:27.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend experimenting on your own on a per-bottle basis. Maybe swipe the yellow, pink, and blue packets from the local diner and sacrifice some bottles of your next batch to science? That way you don't have to rely on the anonymous people of the internet to determine your fate. Choose your own path :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-OR-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some sweeteners you can get on the line in the UK:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00VX2V90Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stevia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0017IVLUM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Equal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003VJQNWG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Xylitol&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastEditorUserId="1375" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T11:57:04.947" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T11:57:04.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-14T20:29:45.390" Score="3" ViewCount="4543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of batches of hard cider going.  This is my first time making hard cider.  I tested the gravity yesterday after about 3 weeks of fermenting and it's hit &quot;dryness&quot; at 1.01.  There is a lot of headspace in the carboy and I want to let it sit for a few more weeks to clear.  My question is, can I add fresh squeezed apple juice the carboy to take up the space?  I've read water can be used, but it will dilute the cider.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12802" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T02:57:48.897" Title="Adding juice to top off carboy - cider making" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16336" CreationDate="2015-10-15T04:46:44.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'[C]an I add fresh squeezed apple juice the carboy to take up the space?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, but introducing fermentable sugars (from the fresh juice) would re-start fermentation and defeat your stated goal of clarification. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'[W]ater can be used, but it will dilute the cider.'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correct, and unless this is what you want, there's no reason to add water, especially just to fill the head-space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had a healthy fermentation, though, there should be no reason to fill up the head-space &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt; since the fermentation will have produced abundant CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; (enough to fill the head-space) and this is fine to age cider under long enough to clarify. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, just leaving it be is probably the best thing you could do. I'm not sure either strategy you mention would be of any real benefit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T04:46:44.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16072" CreationDate="2015-10-15T17:23:05.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes Mexican restaurants serve a drink which is a mix of a margarita and a small 7 oz. Corona. If you find one of those restaurants, maybe they would save the extras for you? Otherwise, check Chinatown for a supplier. those guys down there can get you pretty much anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T17:23:05.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16336" CreationDate="2015-10-15T20:31:38.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are afraid you destroyed CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; layer already, or you want to move cider to new carboy to prevent it sitting on layer of yeast, and you feel you need to fill up head space to avoid oxygenation, buy glass balls. They are easy to sterilize, and can take up volume without restarting fermentation or diluting cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not arguing if it's needed, I'm just giving you a way to do it safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: You can buy glass balls from wine making stores, but they sometimes are also available from general industry vendors, too. Prices seem to be similar, but industry vendors provide better datasheets on their products, like kind of glass, safe temperature range etc. Usually it will give you no real benefit, but if for the same price you may know, or know not, it's better to know in my opinion. Even if your cider is unlikely to reach borders of safe temperature range, ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T12:09:38.940" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T12:09:38.940" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16750" CreationDate="2015-10-16T14:29:39.473" Score="3" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/data/1/7346-10_Braid_in_Cooler_r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;simple drink cooler and screen&lt;/a&gt; for a mash tun, but was given a chugger pump, 10 gallon Blichmann G2, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://67.222.37.65/media/blichmann/Button_louver_false_bottom.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;false bottom&lt;/a&gt; which I now use in a RIMS setup. The first time I brewed a wheat on the new system I used 1# of rice hulls like I always did, but some of the hulls slipped through the false bottom and clogged my quick disconnects. Has anyone else experienced this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed the same beer again last week, but left the rice hulls out of the equation and had no issues. I am now wondering if they are even necessary with the Blichmann false bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Grain Bill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 lbs. 2-Row Brewer’s Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 lb. White Wheat Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 lb. Flaked Wheat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.25 lb. Munich Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.25 lb. Aromatic Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your experience, about what amount of Wheat or Oats will cause stuck mashes or lautering problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastEditorUserId="1375" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T20:26:56.097" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T21:56:27.103" Title="Do you use rice hulls with your Blichmann False Bottom?" Tags="|mashing|lauter|rims|rice-hulls|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2015-10-18T16:15:56.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I am trying to test a batch of hops, I take a neutral pale ale, mine or commercial, cool the bottle to 32F, carefully pop the cap. Pour off a small amount of the beer and push about .5gram of hops into the bottle, and quickly recap it. Let it sit at room temperature for about 2 days and then taste. This simulates dry hoping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12812" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T16:15:56.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16346" CreationDate="2015-10-18T19:38:56.560" Score="5" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing my first batch with a brooklyn brew show all-gain kit.  I skipped the airlock and left the blow-off tube in place in a pot of bleachy water.  It's been there for the past two weeks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I go look at it to start bottling and I see mold growing on the water that the blow-off tube was plugged into!  I guess the bleach evaporated..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the batch ruined?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBQXQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBQXQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to avoid this in the future, I suppose I should just re-up the bleach every so often?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12756" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T21:54:02.843" Title="Mold growing on blow-off tube water -- batch ruined?" Tags="|blow-off|mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16072" CreationDate="2015-10-18T19:41:01.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rainbow coop has lots of different sized glass bottles.  13th &amp;amp; Folsom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12756" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T19:41:01.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16350" CreationDate="2015-10-18T20:39:23.053" Score="2" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a week of primary fermentation, I tried adding about 8 pounds of watermelon puree to my secondary fermenter and took a gravity and taste test 10 days later.  The beer still tastes very tart/bitter and not like fresh watermelon.  Any advice? Should I be using a combination of fresh watermelon and watermelon extract?  Will the flavor improve after carbonation? Should I have used more or less watermelon puree?  Should I have used watermelon juice instead of puree?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since I hope to brew a few more fruit beers, I noticed the colour of wheat extract beer is very dark.  Should I be using a combination of liquid wheat extract and golden extract to get a more yellow colour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already read this post:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/15669/watermelon-beer-anyone-tried-brewing&quot;&gt;Watermelon beer, anyone tried brewing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12563" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T05:30:29.883" Title="Watermelon Wheat Beer - Bitter Taste" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|fruit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16343" CreationDate="2015-10-18T21:54:02.843" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not at all ruined. The airlock is working exactly as intended. Unless there is a growth of mold all the way up the blow-off tube and into the fermentor, you're fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not so much that the bleach evaporated as it was denatured by the copious blow-off material. You don't need to &quot;re-up&quot; on bleach (you really don't even need bleach) so much as discard that nasty-ass blow-off water after the ferment is far enough along that the blow-off tube is not really needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T21:54:02.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-18T23:10:19.197" Score="4" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;After pressing my apples for cider, I tested the PH level and it was 2.7. Although the taste was quite sweet and not too sharp. I decided against sodium metabisulphate, from what I've read, but now thinking I should have added chalk. Has anyone made cider at this acid level and did it turn out alright?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12814" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T14:25:15.767" Title="Ph too low, but pitched anyway" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16347" CreationDate="2015-10-19T14:25:15.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The acidity will mellow out in time.  So high acidity means you will have to be patient, and let it age a few additional weeks or months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This other post also has a solution for this problem, either add some dry malt extract or some calcium carbonate:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/92/how-do-i-stop-cider-becoming-too-acidic?rq=1&quot;&gt;How to stop Cider becoming too acidic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T14:25:15.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16345" CreationDate="2015-10-19T15:39:17.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed over time that you want use lots and lots of fruit (if you think you used enough, add more), supplement with extract, puree the flesh (no rinds or skins) or use juice if possible, boiling kills some flavors, and don't use clarifying agents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably substitute some of your wheat extract with light LME or DME. Depends on your recipe. Ask your LHBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T15:39:17.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16345" CreationDate="2015-10-19T16:33:13.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to impossible to get much flavor out of watermelon due to its water content.  There just isn't a of of flavor there to start with, and any sugars in the watermelon will be consumed by the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T05:30:29.883" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T05:30:29.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16355" CreationDate="2015-10-20T01:35:57.573" Score="5" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the taste of Balsamic vinegar, and I think having just a hint of it would be fantastic in a stout's flavor profile. My concern is what would happen to a beer after this is added. Would it start converting the beer to vinegar, like acetobacter contamination?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insight would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T11:44:05.127" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T11:44:05.127" Title="Would boiled vinegar contain any acetobacter?" Tags="|stout|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-20T02:27:05.497" Score="3" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following instructions from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.portlandmercury.com/portland/diy-hard-cider/Content?oid=11213895&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Portland Mercury on homebrewing cider&lt;/a&gt;, I pitched a whole 5 gram packet of champagne yeast by mistake in my 1 gallon brew. It says that the packet makes a 5 gallon batch... I also never followed the recommended instructions on the packet either by dissolving in 100 degree water. I have, however, added 1/4 teaspoon of yeast nutrient on brew day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been checking the amount of carbonation every day and the bubbles have been very small and not very intense. The liquid is very cloudy (probably due to the ludicrous amounts of yeast I put in) and the airlock bloops have pretty much stopped after a week. After inspecting it closer and messing around with the airlock a bit, I think i may have caused a small crack around the rim of the airlock cap. It seems like it is still likely air tight, but who knows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So.... The questions I have for you experienced cider home brewers:&#xA;Is it likely the sugars were eaten by the yeast at a expedited rate and my brew has almost fermented weeks in advance due to the excessive yeast? Or do I have an airlock problem? Or is it going super slow because I didn't prepare the yeast better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting a new airlock and seeing how the process continues, unless I've completely botched my first batch like a newbie. In that case I would like to start over, but any input helps! Thanks yall.&#xA;-Aaron&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12819" LastEditorUserId="13168" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T19:37:04.233" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T14:10:31.043" Title="Total Cider Noob Move" Tags="|fermentation|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16353" CreationDate="2015-10-20T04:10:40.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's an insane amount of yeast for a one gallon batch. Your yeast ate through all the sugar quickly, and now it probably doesn't have anything left to eat. Do you have a hydrometer? If you don't, get one. That way you'll be able to measure the amount of sugar before &amp;amp; after fermentation instead of just guessing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't start over, and don't buy a new airlock. Fermentation can still happen even if your airlock isn't bubbling. Let it ferment a total of two weeks, then try cold-crashing and/or gelatin fining. That'll work wonders for dropping most of the suspended yeast out of the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T04:10:40.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16352" CreationDate="2015-10-20T12:05:19.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never done that, but I base my answer on information about acetobacter on Wikipedia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The growth of Acetobacter in wine can be suppressed through effective sanitation, by complete exclusion of air from wine in storage, and by the use of moderate amounts of sulfur dioxide in the wine as a preservative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose it can be done, taking the appropriate precautions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acetobacter need air to grow, so I would add the vinegar just before bottling to minimize the exposition to air.  Fill the bottles well, leave minimal air inside (about 3/4 of an inch).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boiling the vinegar is important, 10 minutes seems the safest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding sulfites would affect the taste of beer, I don't think I would add any (or just a little?).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: I want to add that I would test it first at a small scale, in case it goes wrong, I wouldn't want a whole batch to get spoiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/1117/how-long-does-water-need-to-be-boiled-for-to-kill-all-bacteria-viruses&quot;&gt;Information about boiling to kill bacteria&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetobacter_aceti&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Acetobacter on wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/priming-and-bottling/bottle-filling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bottle filling by J. Palmer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:48:01.410" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T19:47:27.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16357" CreationDate="2015-10-21T09:35:19.003" Score="3" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making an IPA yesterday, I decided to throw in every last hop leaf and pellet I had laying around. It turned out to be quite a bit. Also, due to a lack of space, I decided to use my kettle as a primary fermenter. So at the end of the boil, I tried getting as much hops out as possible. We had a small taste of the cooled wort, labelled it as &quot;incredibly bitter&quot; and moved on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, about 14 hours after pitching, this hopstrosity looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oWKof.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oWKof.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hop monster&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, &lt;strong&gt;Should I try to remove all the hop leaf / sludge floating on top of the krausen?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I don't want the green / leafy taste from leaving plant material in the wort for too long. And while this vigorous fermentation is taking place, it has presented me with an opportunity to reach in and pull the hop material out with a ladle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastEditorUserId="6522" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T09:48:35.457" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T04:16:49.000" Title="Hop material in primary" Tags="|hops|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16356" CreationDate="2015-10-21T12:05:04.357" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've made your bed of hops, now lay in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now is not the time to be messing about in your fermenter. Or, frankly, opening it up to take pictures of it. The beer is very susceptible to infection right now. Your massive dose of hops might be a little protective, but you can only get &lt;a href=&quot;http://sizes.com/units/international_bitterness_unit.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;so much alpha acid&lt;/a&gt; in your beer, so you haven't made some super-immune beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, that kettle looks a lot like a bucket. Do you have some tricky way of boiling in there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-10-23T04:16:49.000" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T04:16:49.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16356" CreationDate="2015-10-21T20:27:22.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;the Basic Brewing Radio podcast did an experiment to test the difference between the fermentation of a batch with all the trub removed (or as much as possible) and all the trub left in primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=basic-brewing-brew-your-own-experiments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The BBR experiments page:&lt;/a&gt; Look for Jan/Feb 2012.  I cannot find the results page, but I remember the results showing that while both batches finished at the same terminal gravity, the batch with the trub fermented to completion faster.  I haven't listened to it in some time, but I think there were no noticeable difference in flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As BoilerBrad said, you'll be fine.  Racking to secondary will clean up the beer nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12815" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T20:27:22.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16360" CreationDate="2015-10-21T22:06:07.393" Score="2" ViewCount="2080" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make a batch of dry show mead (white wine experience).&#xA;I have Lalvin 71B-1122 Narbonne yeast, and fermentation temperature range for it is from 59-89° F (15-30°C). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say how different would be my mead (if I'm using lets say Orange Blossom Honey with OG~1.100) if I ferment it at 60F vs 85F? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the benefits of using colder temperature vs warmer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T13:07:02.427" Title="Fermenting mead: low vs high temperature" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|mead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16359" CreationDate="2015-10-22T13:07:02.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lower temp will give a cleaner flavour with fewer yeast generated esters. If you are up at 27C then you may get banana/clove flavours, which can be awesome if that is what you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a clean crisp mead that doesn't hide the character of the honey used I would suggest ~17C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will take a few days longer to fully ferment all of the sugars at a lower temp, but will generally be a more pleasant, dry, crisp mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T13:07:02.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15726" CreationDate="2015-10-23T11:40:07.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some home brewers swear by secondary fermentations. Some home brewers swear by only primary fermentation. Personally, I always rack my brews into a secondary vessel after the initial vigorous fermentation is done. At that point, most of the yeast and proteins have coagulated and sunken to the bottom of the carboy. Sometimes there is a nice layer of krausen scuzz remaining on the top of the beer and lining the sides of the fermenter. I've had beers ruined before by sitting in this mess for too long - especially big beers with high alcohol. The trub in the fermenter is basically dead/dormant/weakened yeast cells, fatty acids, and protein. The beer can pick up a soapy taste by being in contact with it for too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a magic number of days or hours that dictates when to rack to secondary? - No. After the bubbles in your airlock slow to a crawl (1 per minute or so) is an accurate enough measurement for most people. At that point most alcohol producing fermentation activity is over. You can confirm with a gravity reading if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking the beer to the secondary (leaving behind as much sludge as possible) will allow the yeast suspended in your beer to clean up after the massive party it just had in the primary. Be sure to not disturb the trub or splash the beer around too much. The amount of time in secondary is best determined by the taste and to some point, the clarity you desire. Although, if your beer tastes the way you want and it is not yet clear enough, there are ways to speed that along like cold-crashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another advantage of secondary fermentation is that it frees up your primary for another beer :) Who couldn't use more beer in their life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T11:40:07.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16366" CreationDate="2015-10-24T01:09:37.120" Score="4" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed a reverse osmosis and deionizer water filtration system, and it is extremely slow. I calculate that it will take 3-4 hours to filter out 10 gallons of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on filling up two of my 5 gallon plastic buckets the night before brew day, and snapping a lid on it. So 5 gallons of water will be exposed to air for roughly 1.5 hours while it is filling, and be exposed to the air inside of the bucket after I snap the lid on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recall reading that water will naturally absorb carbon dioxide from the air, and this will increase the level of carbonates in the water, making it harder and increasing its pH. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to replicate the purity of the distilled water I buy from Walmart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something I should be concerned about, or would the distilled water contain similar levels of carbonates due the absorption of carbon dioxide from the air?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2018-03-14T03:25:13.510" Title="Will my Reverse Osmosis water lose its purity if its not used immediately?" Tags="|water|water-filtration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16364" CreationDate="2015-10-24T04:19:50.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I was super paranoid about my water, I would do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scrub, Rinse, then Sanitize cornie keg and all racking equipment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill keg with [insert your favorite inert gas]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill keg with water from the bottom up by connecting the RO tap to the out post on the keg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close keg and use gas on the gas post to seal keg, momentarily venting with quick-release valve a few times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fashion tin foil hat and place on head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T04:19:50.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16364" CreationDate="2015-10-24T15:01:40.830" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'[W]ater will naturally absorb carbon dioxide from the air'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it will. But consider this: at atmospheric pressure and room temperature the solubility of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is roughly 0.7 volumes (~1,400 ppm). Factor in that our atmosphere is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_dioxide_in_Earth&amp;#39;s_atmosphere&quot;&gt;currently ~0.04% CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and the most CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; you could absorb from the atmosphere is ~0.6 ppm. This reaction won't happen immediately (or probably even in 10 hours), and in fact your water may already contain that much CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; coming out of the treatment system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But more importantly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'...and this will increase the level of carbonates in the water, making it harder and increasing its pH.'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This actually doesn't happen. CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; only increases carbonates (and therefore hardness) in the presence of calcium or magnesium (typically as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_carbonate&quot;&gt;chalk&lt;/a&gt;). The acidity (CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; &lt;em&gt;decreases&lt;/em&gt; pH of your water) helps to dissolve the Ca or Mg that would otherwise be insoluble, resulting in increased levels of carbonate/bicarbonate/hydroxide ions (depending on pH). Incidentally, this is the exact &lt;em&gt;opposite&lt;/em&gt; of what happens when you boil water to remove bicarbonate hardness (boiling drives out dissolved CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, decreasing the solubility of the dissolved carbonates and allowing them to precipitate). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water you collect through your system will have a fixed amount of hardness already (in Ca and Mg ions), and probably a very small amount, depending on the nature of your deionizing system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So unless you were to add CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; and throw a bunch of chalk in to your water while it's sitting nothing will change the hardness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Is this something I should be concerned about...?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, there's nothing at all to worry about here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T15:01:40.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16284" CreationDate="2015-10-25T16:47:00.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lager and lagering are two seperate things. One is a beer type, and the other is a process. Of course you can lager in bottles! Lagering just means extended cold-conditioning. All lagers and some ales go through this process before sale and/or consumption. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T16:47:00.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-25T22:10:15.557" Score="5" ViewCount="7147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed a nice water filtration system with cataylic carbon, reverse osmosis, and deionization. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a $15 TDS reader from amazon. My unfiltered tap water has TDS of 398 ppm, and my filtered tap water has a TDS of 0. (Incidentally, the RO only gets it down to 80ppm TDS, and the DI takes it all the way down to 0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year I bought the water test from Ward labs, and I just bought another one to test my water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if a TDS reader shows 0 ppm, does that imply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0 ppm Sodium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0 ppm Potassium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0 ppm Calcium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0 ppm Magnesium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0 ppm CaCO3 (total hardness)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0 ppm Chloride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0 ppm Sulfate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious if I even need to do a test from Ward Labs given my TDS reader is 0 ppm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3056" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T05:39:25.710" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T02:51:03.447" Title="Does a Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) reading of 0 imply that my water has 0 ppm for the various minerals?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16370" CreationDate="2015-10-26T00:31:03.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.who.int/water_sanitation_health/dwq/chemicals/tds.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;World Health Organization&lt;/a&gt;, Total Dissolved Solids constitutes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'[T]he inorganic salts and small amounts of organic matter present in solution in water. The principal constituents are usually calcium, magnesium, sodium, and potassium cations and carbonate, hydrogencarbonate,&#xA;  chloride, sulfate, and nitrate anions.'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the same report, when measuring TDS by conductivity (which is almost definitely what your meter is using) the &lt;em&gt;'quantitation limit for TDS in water [...] is 10 mg/litre'&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as long as your TDS meter is reliable and calibrated, while any of the particular brewing ions may not &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; be exactly 0 ppm, you should at least be able to assume with confidence that it's a fairly insignificant amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T00:31:03.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16370" CreationDate="2015-10-26T00:40:05.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In principle that's what it means. So you could stop there and use your water as if it were distilled water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to be thorough, you'd question the sensitivity of a $15 device. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick test is to take a quantity of your tap water and progressively dilute it with the 0ppm water, diluting your test sample in half each time (throw half away and top up with 0ppm water). You should see the TDS also half each time. Watch closely as the figure approaches 0pmm - you expect the series to reduce by half each time - any sudden jumps towards zero implies a lack of precision around that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally to be totally sure, you could try starting with distilled water, adding a known weight of salt and computing the expected TDS and compare that with the actual, and continually dilute the sample. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T00:40:05.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16374" CreationDate="2015-10-26T13:39:12.560" Score="1" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;So i got everything in my fermenting vessel last night and i got up this morning to find that the siphon lock was pushed in. I tried to slowly pull it back up through it's opening but the siphon lock's o-ring came off in the botton and  now its in tje beer. Should i reach in and get it? I am concerned because i think i pitched it too hot. I was a bit tired when finishing up. But i was sure the siphon lock was up last night. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concerns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because my siphon lock was removed some time in the first 24 hours... Is my beer screwed?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if i reach in or use a spoon to get the o-ring... How bad is that?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;do i need to pitch the yeast again?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;i think i pitched it at 95. This was out of impatience and not finding my thermometer before i pitched.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on saving my beer would be nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12846" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T05:16:22.703" Title="How bad can this be?" Tags="|yeast|airlock|siphon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16373" CreationDate="2015-10-26T14:35:08.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removing your airlock will most likely not ruin your beer, at least not right away.  I remove the lid of my fermentor to take a specific gravity reading from time to time, and I never ruined a batch doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I drop anything in my fermenting bucket, specialy at an early stage, I would use a sanitized spoon to take it out.  Sanitize anything that will come in contact with your wort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your yeast is dead you will need to repitch some yeast, after 24h you should see some activity starting if the temperature is right.  It happened to me once, the yeast remained on top with a dark yellow color (burned)... but I think my temperature was closer to 100F when I pitched.  After two days, I pitched an additional half a pack of yeast and it started to ferment 12 hours later. The beer turned out great.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would recommend to sanitize your spoon, take your o-ring out of your bucket. At the same time, look for any sign of fermentation, take a gravity reading to confirm if need be, and pitch some more yeast if needed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T14:35:08.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5711" CreationDate="2015-10-26T17:32:37.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently doing my own experiment with prickly pear. I tossed the whole fruits in a blender, strained through a sieve, then strained through a clean t-shirt. This provided me with about a quart of drinkable juice (you are right about it being tart, though) which I froze in ice cube trays. I did this because I wasn't sure if i was going to be able to do some homebrewing or if I should just preserve the juice for drinking/baking. But then I found some preservative free cider and I am gonna go for it. Since i froze the juice, i don't have to worry about sanitizing with heat. I am planning on doing primary fermentation of the cider only (with yeast nutrient and energizer) and then I plan to add the thawed juice as part of secondary fermentation. That way, I hope to maximize the taste and aroma from the prickly pears while minimizing the mess (and the possibility of setting the pectin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12848" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T17:32:37.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16272" CreationDate="2015-10-26T17:51:28.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a RO system with a Deionization componenet. Apparently, deionization is different than ionexchange. Pepi's answer mentions that ion exchange adds sodium but removes calcium. Deionization only adds hydroxide and hydrogen, which in turn combine and form water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the TDS, with a $15 reader from Amazon, of both the water coming out of the RO and the water coming out of the DI (which also went through the RO). Here were my results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Tap water: 398 ppm TDS&#xA;Filtered through RO: 80 ppm TDS&#xA;Filtered through RO and DI: 0 ppm TDS&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer the question of whether or not RO can reproduce the distilled water I buy from walmart (0 ppm TDS), the answer is No. However, the combination of RO plus DI does result in 0 ppm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, given that my tap water is extremely bad (398 ppm TDS), perhaps this would not hold true for all types of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T17:51:28.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16336" CreationDate="2015-10-26T19:04:31.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding juice will undo any settling and clarification efforts you may have performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much below the shoulder is your cider? If it just there at the shoulder, you are talking about only an ounce or two of water per finished and corked bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do is I keep some wine (or cider) in reserve for topping up. Or if it's my first batch of &quot;something&quot;, I make 7.5 gallons to start, and when I have rack, I rack into a 6 gallon and an additional 1 gallon jug. This way I have the same stuff to top off with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's nice to have a variety of carboy sizes for this reason. Mine list at (in gallons) 7.5, 6, 5.5, 5, 3 and several 1 gallon jugs for trial and error and for that topping off portion I need to keep around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T19:04:31.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16330" CreationDate="2015-10-26T19:07:54.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I find alternative sweeteners to be rather nasty, and they all leave some sort of unfamiliar and distasteful after taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason you don't want to use sorbitol? I can understand if you don't, but what makes artificial sweeteners more desirable Than sorbates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T19:07:54.120" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2899" CreationDate="2015-10-27T07:15:04.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from changing yeast and preserving flavor, there is also a third reason. if some beer style calls for sucrose, candi sugar et cetera, adding it directly to the boil may make yeast &quot;lazy&quot;. Glucose, fructose and corn sugar tends to be fermented first, before maltose is. Worse, yeast that fermented a lot of easier sugars may lose the ability to process maltose, leaving you with a stuck fermentation. So allowing maltose be fermented, and only then adding easier sugars for secondary fermentation makes a lot of sense and may result with drier, more alcoholic final result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T07:15:04.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2899" CreationDate="2015-10-27T14:37:02.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about three sugar additions and haven't explored Belgian styles that much, but I can see where the idea of primary-secondary-bottle conditioning with a yeast addition somewhere makes sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some yeasts ferment sugars that lager/ale yeasts don't ferment. Brettanomyces is a slow-acting yeast, so people don't like to put it in the primary but do like to use it for conditioning.* But since it ferments sugars that aren't usually fermented by lager/ale yeast it is dangerous for bottle conditioning because you end up with more CO2 for the same amount of priming sugar if you bottle condition with a Brett addition. To get around this Brett will be added to the secondary to pre-condition before normal bottle conditioning ensues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing is possibly just an emergency intervention, but if you lager and kill your yeast off with cold you may want to add another yeast back for bottle conditioning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the bulleted questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Varies big time.  Adjuncts can be added to the secondary, for instance, so you get some more sugar that way sometimes. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Probably varies, depending on style or preference, but with a second pitching there usually isn't much fermentable sugar left, so you don't go crazy.  I'd probably make a quarter liter starter if I did a Brett addition to secondary. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One possibility, with Brett, is a more dry finish. It's noted for being somewhat sour, though this should be subtle in secondary fermentation.  Sometimes bottled beers, even ales, contain added lager yeast for long-term storage and conditioning. I haven't tried this, but maybe lager yeasts in bottle conditioning give you a cleaner finish?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) I have only non-Belgian experience with it, but Brett is popular in some Belgian/lambic styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastEditorUserId="12745" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T15:25:37.673" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T15:25:37.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16323" CreationDate="2015-10-27T14:57:03.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxidation has the opposite affect. It creates hydroxides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What oxidation will do however is impart a candyish jolly rancher like flavor which I personally find distasteful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical and well characterized example of what this ends up tasting like is comparing a good strawberry wine or watermelon wine with those that have oxidized. Good wines of these two taste like the fruit, oxidized ones taste like those jelly filled strawberry candies (for strawberry) or jolly rancher candy (for the watermelon) and it's disgusting in a wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why we use ascorbic and/or citric acids when preparing fruit, it greatly inhibits and reduces oxidation of the fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T14:57:03.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16373" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:39:39.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your hands are filthy. DO NOT PUT THEM IN YOUR BEER.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say don't put a spoon in either.  However big the risk of infection because of your lost o-ring, it's less than poking around in your beer. Plus the risk is probably minimal if the yeast have a good head start. The o-ring has already been in contact with the beer, so I would say that's that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resanitize the container rim and close it off with an airlock.  Chances are you'll be fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other intervention I'd suggest is adding yeast if your particular strain is sensitive to high-ish temperatures. I think I regularly pitched ale yeast in the 90 F range when I started brewing.  It was fine.  Not as good as it is these days, but fine. :-p&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T15:39:39.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-27T18:17:42.890" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made wort for my 5 gal brew by dissolving 32 oz of confectioners sugar and 55 oz of dry malt extract. What effects of large amount of sugar can I expect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12852" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-10-30T13:52:19.887" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T13:52:19.887" Title="What can I expect when I put 32 oz confectioners sugar in my 5 gal brew?" Tags="|sugar|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16384" CreationDate="2015-10-27T18:33:40.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By my rough calculations it's about 1kg in 18 liters - to convert to units I can use my intuition with. This means you provided a bit over 5 Blg worth of fermentables by adding sugar. Not bad. I did more, on purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing, you just increased your ABV by about 2~3%. That's neither good or bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, you didn't provide anything that usually goes with malt. No nutrients for your yeast. No dextrin for sweetness. No compounds to form malty sweetness. In some Belgian styles that's exactly what you want - Belgian yeast can use this all right, and having increased alcoholic content with high drinkability is their aim. But it only stands true for &lt;em&gt;strong&lt;/em&gt; beers, usually way over 15 Blg and 7% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understood your comment correctly, you had 55 oz (about 1.5 kg) of dry malt extract. It means sugar makes up 37% of your solids. That's a lot. Way too much for my taste and your beer may taste watery or express cider-like or moonshine-like tastes. And all you probably got was 12 to 14 Blg - 5, maybe 6% ABV in finished product. So it's not too good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on malt extract. I would expect something in the range between &quot;water with alcohol&quot; and &quot;a bit watery/cidery&quot; result. If you're lucky, and it'll be the later, you may still get a beer that will be pretty drinkable, just don't expect anything award-winning. And be careful with hops - you lack malty sweetness to counter and balance their bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T12:39:49.343" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T12:39:49.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17015" CreationDate="2015-10-27T18:39:53.390" Score="3" ViewCount="607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have about 8 jars of peaches in light syrup I bought from Costco. &#xA;I want to add these to a 5 gallon batch of Cider. I'm going to a peach cobbler flavored cider. I'm also planning on adding brown sugar.&#xA;Should I prep the peaches in any way?&#xA;Do I add these to secondary?&#xA;What should I be looking out for?&#xA;Am I crazy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2210" LastEditorUserId="2210" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T19:46:19.970" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T13:04:15.547" Title="Peaches in Cider" Tags="|cider|flavor|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16388" CreationDate="2015-10-27T21:38:34.753" Score="1" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I poured the raw apple cider into a carboy and added crushed campden tablets to eliminate or knock down the native bacteria a couple days ago. Now as I am about to some S-04 yeast, I wonder if I should first rack it into another carboy so that I can remove the solids which have settled out. Does it matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1990" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T10:12:29.187" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T10:12:29.187" Title="Should I remove settled solids prior to primary fermentation of cider?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16387" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:02:37.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might matter, in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Positive way&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some solids may, in the long run, introduce tastes you do not want. And getting rid of them may help with clarity in the future. Also, if your tablets are not completely dissolved yet, they may still release sodium metabisulfite that might not be exactly healthy for your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Negative way&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By decanting it to another carboy, you introduce chance for more oxidation, and for fresh bacteria from the air to contaminate your cider. This might ruin original purpose of adding these tablets at all, if you are not careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe there is one universal &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; answer for this one. Consider possible benefits and risk, and choose what feels right. First few times it'll be guesstimates, later your experience, knowledge of &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; skill and &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; workshop will guide you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T22:02:37.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16387" CreationDate="2015-10-28T02:44:58.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not think it matters at this stage, you can rack it or not, as you wish.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would not rack anything prior to fermentation.  In all the books I read about beer or wine making, I have never seen anything about racking before any fermentation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some solids are beneficial in the early stage (adds to flavor and color in wines), so I would even stir everything (using a sanitized spoon) before pitching the yeast, it will also help to get rid of remaining sulfites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T02:44:58.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16373" CreationDate="2015-10-28T05:16:22.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;95F shouldn't kill your yeast, they usually live outdoors, without air conditioning. Depending on what strain it is, it may or may not make bad flavors due the warm starting temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big issue here is contamination: was the o-ring fully sanitized? Did your hands touch the o-ring? Is your air clean? Do you have pets? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safest bet would be to boil the beer again and repitch. I don't know what that might do to existing esters from the yeast, but it's the only way to know that your beer isn't contaminated. Or you could wait to find out later, it might be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't even consider trying to get the o-ring out unless your going to pour the beer into a kettle and boil again, otherwise you'll be screwing around for 15-30 minutes over beer that is very easy to contaminate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T05:16:22.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16392" CreationDate="2015-10-29T00:06:12.400" Score="4" ViewCount="982" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to replace the barb fitting on the low-pressure side of my dual-guage regulator with a female quick-dissconnect. I would attach the male part of the disconnect to the gas line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how to describe the style of quick disconnect I have on-hand, so here's a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HhVJS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HhVJS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;quick disconnect&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this as leak-proof as the traditional barb fitting with hose clamp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who care, here's why I want to do this. I ferment in a 10 gallon Cornelius keg. When the fermentation is done, I move the beer to a 5 gallon serving keg. I move it by pushing with CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. Since I only have a single CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; tank and regular, I have to disconnect the gas line from the regulator so I can move the  tank and hook up a different gas line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, the gas line starts to widen out where it's pushed over the barb. To maintain a tight seal, I have to continually trim the gas line, removing the widened out section. A quick disconnect would solve this problem nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T12:26:06.123" Title="Is it safe to use a quick disconnect on a regulator?" Tags="|co2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16391" CreationDate="2015-10-29T03:37:35.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, quick-disconnects such as this are entirely reliable for what you propose. In fact, it's more often than not that the hose barbs the QD's are connected to are what fails, rather than the QD's themselves. Safety-wise, it's no different than having anything else attached to the low-pressure side of your regulator. Anything beyond the on-off valve (which I assume you would keep) shouldn't be able to retain an unsafe amount of pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I could offer one suggestion, it would be to install a length of hose between the regulator and the female QD, enough so you can freely maneuver the two couplers together when connecting. I find it tricky to retract the sleeve on the female side when it's either fixed or too close to something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T12:26:06.123" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T12:26:06.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16394" CreationDate="2015-10-29T12:05:07.230" Score="1" ViewCount="1075" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background: My wife drinks cider like a fish drinks water and buying cider at the store was leaving me pretty much broke. The LHBS turned us on to the idea of making our own a couple years ago so we gave it a whirl. Preservative-free apple juice and a Wyeast Cider smack pack yields a decent dry cider that is super easy to make. The best part about it is that she will drink it without much fussing (She is normally pretty fussy about food and drinks). The worst part about it is that it takes a long time to clear. To get a clear product faster, I tried my hand at adding Sparkolloid when there was probably about 10 gravity points left in fermentation. About 8 hours after the addition, it appears that fermentation slowed significantly, nearly stopping. I'm not talking about just the air lock not bubbling as much. The production of CO2 bubbles coming out of the cider itself has nearly halted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So - did Sparkolloid have something to do with the slowed fermentation? I'm leaning towards no since I could not find anything supporting this idea on the www, but figured I would ask you experts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question - When is an appropriate time to add something like Sparkolloid to wines and ciders? In my beer production, I normally just add Irish Moss near the end of the boil and I've never had a turbid batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T12:49:44.803" Title="Will Sparkolloid slow or stop fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|cider|finings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16393" CreationDate="2015-10-29T12:49:44.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything that clears your drink by dropping particles from suspension will also drop yeast from suspension - and yeast can only work properly when suspended in the liquid. So yes, adding any clearing agent is bound to slow down or even stop fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be sure, wait until gravity does not change for 3 consecutive days and only then process with additions like that. Some yeast will always stay behind, so refermenting in bottles will still be possible (if maybe slow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T12:49:44.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16396" CreationDate="2015-10-29T13:07:33.967" Score="3" ViewCount="1049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll be making American Wheat beer this weekend. Simple malt bill - half wheat, half barley. I'm planning to use Chinook for bitterness. What would go well with it's resin and &quot;coniferous forest&quot; quality, to add a bit of citrus taste and grapefruit aroma? I'm open to dry hopping and don't mind using different hops for last minutes of boil and dry addition. I just don't know which ones to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bets so far was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Centennial&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cascade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simcoe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is any of them any good for this purpose? In this specific combination?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T03:02:39.623" Title="What hop will give me grapefruit-like aroma?" Tags="|hops|aroma|wheat-beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16395" CreationDate="2015-10-29T13:25:21.503" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Citra is a good bet for grapefruit aromas. Check this link for a nice tool to help with hopping your beers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hopunion.com/aroma-wheel/&quot;&gt;https://www.hopunion.com/aroma-wheel/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T13:25:21.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16408" CreationDate="2015-10-29T13:47:53.313" Score="1" ViewCount="5862" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a beer which may or may have finished fermentation. I read about &quot;stuck fermentation&quot; and am wondering if I ended up with not enough fermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the calculator if i bottle it now it'll still be 3.5%, so very weak, but potentially still recovering a beer out of it.  Or is this one for the drain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe was a dunkelweizen all grain jobby.  It's been in the fermenter nearly 6 weeks now.  I did try pitching another yeast, but nothing really happened, a bit of gas was given off, but then it just stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OG was 1.056. How do I know if the mash conversion was complete? I hit the OG that the recipe recommended so I took that as a good sign...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fermentation temperature was about 18 degrees.. but i've hooked up a brew belt to bring it up a bit just to see if there is any life left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3455" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T15:56:48.340" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T21:29:03.673" Title="Can I bottle a beer at 1.028 gravity?" Tags="|fermentation|beer|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16397" CreationDate="2015-10-29T13:57:58.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take gravity readings every day for three to 5 days. if it does not change, chances are it is done and ready for bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T13:57:58.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16397" CreationDate="2015-10-29T16:16:17.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the beer tastes good, there is no reason to throw it out.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not have any fermentable sugars left, after 2-3 days of stable gravity it usually means the yeast is done, you may bottle as it is but only if you are convinced that the fermentation is done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make sure fermentation is over, you can adjust the temperature since 18C seems a bit cold.  Stirring things up a bit can also help to get yeast in suspension since most of the yeast may have flocculated after 6 weeks (or pitch some new if you prefer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But&lt;/strong&gt;, if your fermentation is done and you are not in a hurry, you can always add more sugar to raise the alcohol content.  One cup of sugar in a 5 gallons batch will raise your alcohol content of about 0.5%.  If you bring it to 4.5%, it will be a decent dunkelweizen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding some sugar will do one important thing.  It will confirm if the yeast is active or dormant.  If the added sugar is fermented, your will know for sure that your yeast doesn't need warming or shaking. If the consequence is only adding 0.5% of alcohol, it is a test worth trying in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2015-10-31T14:05:45.943" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T14:05:45.943" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16855" CreationDate="2015-10-29T18:29:21.307" Score="1" ViewCount="7716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making a mead for last two years, and a huge supporter of staggered nutrients additions to mead where you use Go-Ferm to rehydrate the yeast, adjust pH level with potassium carbonate, and some pectin enzymes with fruit additions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm using Fermaid-K and DAP on days 2-4-6 when the yeasts are strong and healthy enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been reading that a new trend is substituting Fermaid-K for Fermaid-O (O for organic). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not quite sure how much Fermaid-O should I use per gallon. Since it doesn't contain any DAP in it, amount of DAP should increase, but buy how much? &#xA;How much of DAP should I add on days 2-4-6 per gallon? &#xA;Since there is no DAP in Fermaid-O it can be added all at once on day 0... What's the appropriate amount?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and the main question, is it worth it substituting Fermaid-O for Fermaid-K at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastEditorUserId="1772" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T23:29:14.193" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T23:29:14.193" Title="Should I use Fermaid-O or Fermaid-K while fermenting mead?" Tags="|mead|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-29T22:50:53.970" Score="2" ViewCount="2286" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a question... I have made a cider with wild yeast (whatever was on those apples), and after fermenting it out, I used the same yeast to ferment a session mead (OG~1.060, FG~1.004, ABV~7.3%). It gave a really cool and interesting touch to the mead (much better then original cider). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, after that I've been thinking, about making a stronger mead. Just out of curiosity, what could be the tolerance of those wild yeasts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kinda can guess, that it can go up to 15% (as most of the Saccharomyces), but it would be interesting to find out, what exact strain was growing on the apples (isolated to the Northern California region), Saccharomyces paradoxus? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T10:06:43.040" Title="Alcohol tolerance of wild yeasts" Tags="|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16397" CreationDate="2015-10-29T23:09:00.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's rather high for a Dunkelweizen.  I'd try gently swirling the fermentation vessel to get the yeast off of the bottom.  Maybe up the fermentation temp a few degrees too.  Do that and try taking some SG readings a couple of weeks later and see if you have got things moving along again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd worry that if fermentation is just stuck (and not finished) that you'd be making bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12176" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T23:09:00.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-30T01:28:25.493" Score="6" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to brew an applewood smoked Märzen and upon doing some research I found some brewers have sprayed their malt with bourbon instead of water during the smoking process to keep the grain moist, this gave me an idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: what would be the outcome if instead of the pre-soaking the grain in water prior to smoking you pre-soaked the grain in bourbon or something similar? Has anyone ever tried this or perhaps has any insight on what flavours if any would result? I'll probably try it anyway, but any point of view is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12860" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2015-10-30T03:13:21.837" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T12:13:19.487" Title="Has anyone ever tried soaking grains in bourbon instead of water before smoking malt? Any advice is appreciated too" Tags="|grain|bourbon|smoke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-30T02:13:37.440" Score="2" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;No room to bring them inside.  Thinking that leaving extra room for expansion, like 3/4 full carboys might be safe.  Also considering wrapping in a tarp for insulation, and hoping the heat from fermentation will help... but then I'd have to catch just when that stops.  Maybe someone who has freeze-distilled outside in a glass carboy might have a tip on survival chances of my carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a cider/mead (cysor).  Expected ABV 10%, already got 5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not intending to freeze the cider, but I don't need to avoid it as far as I know -- except for the glass breaking potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also have concerns about a 3/4 full carboy (for expansion room) and the associated surface area/oxygen access (expecially when fermentation slows/stops).  But probably if it's too cold for booze production, vinegarization won't happen either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Made through our mild winter (it appears).  Full Carboys had just the slightest ice on top, no risk of full freeze and therefore broken glass.  I don't think it got colder than about -7C though.  A half-full carboy of vinegar did get more freezing, and shook them to keep the ice moving and it was fine.  Fermentation has resumed.  Alls well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12861" LastEditorUserId="12861" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T20:42:23.497" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T20:42:23.497" Title="Are my carboys going to break when my outdoor cider brew freezes?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16395" CreationDate="2015-10-30T03:02:39.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Centennial will give a pronounced grapefruit flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T03:02:39.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16404" CreationDate="2015-10-30T08:43:53.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one can know for sure. It depends on too many factor to reliably guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The better insulation, the better chance that fermentation heat will be sufficient - for some time, at least. Alcohol contents helps, too. If your beer is at 5% ABV, freezing point is t about -2 C / 28 F. Sugar content may bring it further to -4, maybe even -10C, depending on your gravity. That's possibly low, but you don't know the exact point, and weather can get colder. So these factors only slows things down and lessens the risk a bit, but not prevent breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, the slower freezing goes, the lesser chance for break. Again - thick insulation helps. And not only around, but also on the top, because top of your tank is when you lose most of your heat. Extra room is only useful if there is enough time to displace not yet frozen liquid up, and if the airlock is not yet frozen. Replace it with gauze or add a lot of salt to water to ensure it's freezing point is way below what you can really expect (saturated salt solution can have freezing point as low as -21 C - weather sometimes gets colder, all right, but it might be rare enough in your area).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't forget that once frozen, water ice expands still with drop of temperature, and then buffer space is of no use at all - it's solid now, it will expand equally in every direction. Glass, on the other hand, shrinks. So once layer of ice has thickness comparable to that of your glass, it's time to start to worry. Sometimes glass breaks first. Sometimes it's ice - but then, breaks in ice only open more space for new ice. At some point in time-temperature chart, glass will fail. Trying not to reach that point is a risky game, one I liked to play in winter, but with bottles I didn't care about, and water or other &quot;school project&quot; solutions, not something I care about, like my wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-10-31T19:27:49.123" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T19:27:49.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16397" CreationDate="2015-10-30T09:02:27.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.028 is ok, but generally only if you started A LOT higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First; try moving the fermenter to a warmer area and give it a bit of a swirl/shake to rouse the yeast. See if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second: make a new yeast starter and pitch that. leave it for a while and see if it solves your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three: Taste the beer. If it tastes good, bottle and enjoy, else, bin it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T09:02:27.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16404" CreationDate="2015-10-30T11:48:36.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The density of water at room temp is 0.998 g/cm^3. The density of ice is 0.9167 g/cm^3. Thus, one gallon of water very near the freezing point would create just about 1.09 gallons of ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important part of this operation will be making sure you have some mechanism to relieve the pressure that builds up as the cider approaches freezing. If you are using airlocks, make sure they don't freeze up. If that happens, best case is that the airlock gets pushed out of the carboy. Worst case scenario is that the carboy breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it would be a stretch to say that the heat from fermentation would prevent some thing from freezing. I guess it just depends on how cold it gets where you live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T11:48:36.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16200" CreationDate="2015-10-30T19:18:33.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be interested in making a &quot;Graff&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=117117&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=117117&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You basically create a wort with unfermentable sugars, mix with apple juice, then proceed as normal. No need to mess with pasteurization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T19:18:33.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16193" CreationDate="2015-10-31T19:29:47.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;3.5kg of sugar in 23 liters compared to 1.7kg will add 3% abv. So the cider will be a little stronger than expected, but not a reason to panic. The yeast quantity means you have underpitched, but again no cause for alarm - the yeast will propagate to the desired level - you might get some more esters, but given that this is already a fruity brew that's probably a good thing! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd leave it as is. At the most this means primary might take a few days longer, and you may need to condition for a little while longer. There are many that bump up the amount of fermentables in a kit to get a more robust abv.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T19:29:47.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15317" CreationDate="2015-11-01T16:27:28.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom lime is that you're nor going to get a lot of hop aroma out of a 5 minute addition, or even at flameout.  I've pretty much stopped doing those additions becasue I found, as you did, that they don't do much.  Try whirlpool hopping or dry hopping for the best hop aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T16:27:28.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-01T19:16:10.023" Score="1" ViewCount="6145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably about halfway through fermenting a cysor (apple-honey).  Smell is strong.  Have a few carboys on the go, and only one has gone 'off' this way.  Anyone know what happened or if a correction is possible?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked up some common homebrewing wine fault smells, but didn't find mine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for helping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12861" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T19:29:23.997" Title="Cider smells like nail polish remover (acetone). Tastes like juice, but also like it smells" Tags="|cider|aroma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16414" CreationDate="2015-11-01T19:31:29.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like Acetaldehyde. It may be caused by infection (worst case), or by not enough starting oxygen for yeast, underpitching, bad yeast condition, wrong temperature of fermentation, oxygenation too late in the process, and some other reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, given time yeast should be able to process it into ethanol. So if this is not an infection, just rouse your yeast back into suspension, and give it few extra weeks. If it's infection, it's lost already so why not? And for most of other reasons, it'll help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and be really, really sure that you stay safe when tasting etc. If it's not fully fermented, it's easy to introduce infections, so tasting might be risky thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of completeness, I feel like I should mention higher alcohols. Large amounts of simple sugars might be the cause, and honey is simple sugars in most part. Also, too high temperature can be the reason. But this would happen in all carboys, wouldn't it? It should, if it's the same recipe or even batch, and they are all fermented in one room. So I don't think it's a cause here, given the OP's description. But smell fits this case, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-11-01T19:37:22.683" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T19:37:22.683" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-01T22:14:18.133" Score="-1" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;hi guys i'm very new to this beer brewing business. ill be be having a small party this weekend, I'm short on beer, So I'd like to know how do i go about doubling my alcohol volume when diluting it with water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12867" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T19:38:29.640" Title="Doubling my beer volume" Tags="|fermentation|beer|kegging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16417" CreationDate="2015-11-01T22:25:27.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't. Watering down beer is bad idea, because you will end up with something with no taste, no kick etc. You could add vodka or rectified alcohol, and something for taste, but due to tax rules on strong liquor in most countries it would be far cheaper to simply buy more beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T22:25:27.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6048" CreationDate="2015-11-01T22:53:02.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tanins bind to protein,  and gelatin is derived from collagen which is a protein. It is logical that the addition of gelatin bound the tanins and deposited them in the trub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12869" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T22:53:02.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16417" CreationDate="2015-11-01T23:13:22.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you absolutely must do this, I would buy an mildly flavored (or similarly flavored) commercial beer with a similar ABV and mix it into your beer. It might even still be good. Serve in pitchers and no one needs to be wiser. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you must add water, you probably need to dilute it with vokda or some other (preferably neutrally flavored spirit) to maintain ABV. But then you need to pull out your algebra skillz to calculate the right ABV of watered down vokda. x oz of 100 proof spirit (50% alcohol by volume) added to y oz of water* would raise the water's ABV to (0.5x)/(y+x). So if target ABV is 5% and you have 1 quart (32 oz) of water, solve for x in 0.05=0.5x/(32+x) to figure out how many ounces of 100 proof spirit to add. That comes to about 3.5 oz; multiple by 4 if you want to deal with gallons instead of quarts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) you could also try alcohol-free beer, which may not be too expensive and also could be better for flavor than water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T23:13:22.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="408" CreationDate="2015-11-02T00:32:40.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wyeast liquid yeast has a 6 months warranty shelf life.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_advantage.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_advantage.cfm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Danstar dry yeast comes with a 2 years guaranteed shelf life, if stored properly.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.danstaryeast.com/articles/dry-yeast-storage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.danstaryeast.com/articles/dry-yeast-storage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentis claims their dry yeast is viable for 2 years from the date of manufacture, as long as the yeast is stored properly.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/brewing/homebrewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fermentis.com/brewing/homebrewing/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems 2 years for dry yeast is the standard shelf life and 6 months for liquid yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also read on a manufacturer's website (can't remember which one) that a percentage of the yeast decays after X number of months.  So after 2 years, your dry yeast pack might have 50% of the yeast active.  It doesn't drop to 0% at once, it's a gradual process.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T00:32:40.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2015-11-02T07:09:18.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is for consideration to Mauricio Maia. First thank you for the name given to the &quot;spirit from fresh sugar cane wine&quot;. Always interesting to learn names of new (to me) types of alcohol. As I think about what you said I tried to classify it. I can see that I was incorrect in saying rum is from sugar cane. Molasses is a by product of refining sugar cane. You are correct. Rum is from molasses only. I believe that Cachaça would be considered a type of arrack. I say this because the juice from sugar cane is not from a fruit, but is in fact, the sap of the plant. As far as the &quot;fresh sugar cane wine &quot; goes; I don't think it would be classified as a wine. It is not from fruit. But apparently, we need a name for fermented sap as well as distilled mead! LOL! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12872" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T07:09:18.350" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-11-02T07:09:18.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16424" CreationDate="2015-11-02T07:25:08.490" Score="-2" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;Want to make a simple high gravity single hop ipa. Will this recipe work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 pounds DME Amber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 pound Crystal 40l steeped 45 mins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Citra hops start 60 mins  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Citra hops 45 mins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Citra hops 30 mins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Citra hops 15 mins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Citra hops 1 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1 oz Citra hops off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;California Ale yeast&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm kind of iffy on how much Crystal malt is necessary to impart color or flavor and also the effects of adding hops at different boil times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12873" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T09:52:20.837" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T09:52:20.837" Title="Need some carification on my ingredient choices and hop boil timing" Tags="|boil|malt|ipa|crystal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16423" CreationDate="2015-11-02T13:17:47.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question isn't easy to answer - at best it's subjective as to whether it will be the result you want or not.  I don't know the final gravity or IBUs that this recipe will produce - I could find out, but then so can you with the free tools available - simply put your batch size and the ingredients into a recipe calculator like brewtoad to determine the likely OG and IBUs. You want to aim for a 1:1 ratio between OG and IBU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When bring from extract, strong beers can have a high finishing gravity due to the non-fermentables in the extract. I'd suggest substituting a few pounds of LME with sugar to lower the resulting body. Also keep in mind that brewing a high gravity beer is more involved than simply adding more ingredients - temperature control and yeast handling become even more important than for regular gravity beers, so it'll be a good start for you to read up on those if you're not already familiar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T13:17:47.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16414" CreationDate="2015-11-02T19:29:23.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the honey, but not likely a problem. Meads when young smell and taste horrible, like as you put it; nail polish remover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In every case of mead I have experienced this, and the only resolution was time. Let it age and it mellows out to something indescribably good and heavenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only mead I ever made which didn't suffer from this acetone problem was a citrus mead. Not sure what the difference is/was but it never seemed to need as much aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T19:29:23.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16404" CreationDate="2015-11-02T19:35:18.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wrap the carboys with heating belts. I defiantly wouldn't let it freeze uncontrolled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T19:35:18.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-02T22:16:51.247" Score="2" ViewCount="1084" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Five Star's iodophor sanitizer. The instructions say to let equipment fully dry before using. This seems almost impossible for plastic tubing. Even after a couple of hours there is still noticeable liquid inside the tubing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this small amount of iodophor liquid affect taste? Should I rinse with hot water before using? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12879" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T20:56:54.180" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T21:13:35.830" Title="How Long to Dry Tubing After Sanitizing?" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16428" CreationDate="2015-11-03T06:05:09.233" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've actually read in forums that it's safe to drink. The foam is nothing to be afraid of. no need to rinse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12873" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T06:05:09.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16428" CreationDate="2015-11-03T14:51:36.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you followed the part of the instructions about diluting it first, you're fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't dilute it first you're still fine if you don't want to rinse, but in that case I would rinse with the diluted solution to avoid the chance of off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T14:51:36.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16428" CreationDate="2015-11-03T18:40:24.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always just rinse it out after i clean it... no problems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8092" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T18:40:24.660" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16428" CreationDate="2015-11-03T18:49:38.683" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do 2 things to dry the tubes: first, the cowboy: get outside, hold one end of the tube, and swing it around like a lasso so that the liquid gets out. Since that doesn't get every last drop out, here's the second: Push the tube into an indoor A/C ceiling vent, so that it hangs and the air from A/C or heating blows through it. Let it hang over night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T18:49:38.683" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16063" CreationDate="2015-11-03T19:36:28.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The temperature could be a factor, make sure your bottles are stored at a correct temperature (see the yeast package for ideal temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the SO2 did not evaporate as much as expected?  There are kits that you can buy to measure sulfites in wine : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chemetrics.com/Sulfite+(free)/Visual+Kits/K-9602&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Titrets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that the yeast in the bottles did not get enough oxygen to reproduce properly.  Splash-racking before bottling could have helped you to get rid of some SO2 and add some oxygen at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since bottling is done, I would shake the bottles gently (to stir the yeast) and wait 2-3 more weeks, it might still ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T19:36:28.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16428" CreationDate="2015-11-04T04:15:47.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never have any problems with this regimen: clean after use, sanitize before use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning means removing all visible contents from the tubing. Usually running some water through suffices, sometimes I need B-Brite or something. Whatever happens, getting dried gunk out of tubes is a bitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanitizing means actually murdering all the little abominations, whether on surfaces or in tubes, that want to jump into my beer.  For this I have used Star San and bleach to great effect. I'm sure iodophor is fine too. I always run water through after sanitizing too, but with most sanitizers I don't suppose you have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frankly, I feel like sanitizing after use is a waste of time since I feel that anything coming in contact with beer should be sanitized before use immediately before use. A sanitary surface eventually becomes an ideal surface for our local microflora or microfauna. I wouldn't feel comfortable depending on the results of a sanitation I did weeks or months before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastEditorUserId="12745" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T13:06:37.470" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T13:06:37.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16417" CreationDate="2015-11-04T08:59:36.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way: experiment. Take a small glass of beer, dilute to a measured amount and taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diluting beer is common in commercial breweries, but they start with the knowledge that the beer will be diluted, so they ensure that they have strong ABV, body and flavours to carry through in the final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your chances of just ending up with a watery, low ABV and flat tasting beer is very high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that you should server your beer and when it is done serve some other commercial beer. Then people can taste what you brewed, not some watered down effigy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T08:59:36.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-04T16:08:29.167" Score="3" ViewCount="3926" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 one gallon batches of cider that have been fermenting away nicely for a month.  They are Motts 100% natural cider with no preservatives.  I used Nottingham, hoping to get a little residual sweetness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have cleared a lot, but they are not crystal clear.  Normally, I would just let them sit for a couple of months, and they would be fine.  But now, I want to carbonate them and serve them at thanksgiving.   One is going to be dryhopped with Saphir, the other served with no hop additions.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I fine with Gelatin? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do fine with gelatin, will they still carb up like beer.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never made carbonated cider before, only still.  Sorry for the newbie type questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12887" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T22:21:54.697" Title="Do I really need to clarify cider?" Tags="|cider|clarification|fining|gelatin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16436" CreationDate="2015-11-04T16:22:05.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different finings are used for different purposes and sometimes you end up using two because the first didn't work. For cider, I would try egg yolk or isinglass first. If you want crystal clear you may be forced to filter. Apple is notorious for not clarifying on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T16:22:05.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16428" CreationDate="2015-11-04T17:18:58.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer really is quite simple, if the water dries and leaves salts behind, does it really affect anything to wait until dry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is no, usually not. The salts are there whether it's dried or not in the same quantity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer answer is maybe, but letting it dry the sanitizer concentrates thus killing anything residual that might survive the diluted formula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me? I have sanitize and used right away. In fact sometimes it's so long between uses that I feel I need to sanitize BEFORE I use, not after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hang the hose vertically, it will help it to dry a lot better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T17:18:58.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16452" CreationDate="2015-11-05T18:48:38.610" Score="1" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to split a 15 gallon batch of beer three ways.  The brew is going to be an Imperial Stout, and the 5 gallon recipe calls for 20lbs of grain (60lbs for 15 gallons). Between the three brewers we have a enough equipment to boil 10 and 5 gallons separately, but my concern is the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We only have two 10 gallon mash tuns.  30lbs of grain in each plus the water won't fit.  If we max out the water and hit our mash temp:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can we just fly sparge the rest in order to achieve our volume?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will our mash efficiency take a huge hit or will we get relatively close to our pre-boil gravity?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If our mash efficiency does take a hit would mashing longer allow for better conversion?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know equipment is a factor in efficiency but I'm just looking to see if this is a reasonable approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12555" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T20:04:57.780" Title="A 15 gallon batch with two 10 gallon mash tuns" Tags="|mash|efficiency|large-batch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16436" CreationDate="2015-11-05T21:12:38.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can clear it with gelatin, or any other common way. Most should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For carbonation - forced carbonation in keg will work all right, no reason for it not to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottle conditioning will still be possible. Unless you filtered, you should have some yeast in suspension, so slowly, slowly they will do their job. If you filtered, or don't want to wait so long add fresh yeast slurry. Yeast drop to the bottles' bottoms pretty fast when they are done with their job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T21:12:38.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16428" CreationDate="2015-11-05T21:13:35.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will this small amount of iodophor liquid affect taste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not if it was properly diluted&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I rinse with hot water before using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arguably, your materials will be less sanitized if you do. If you really want to rinse, use pre-boiled water. The best option is to properly dilute your sanitizer and don't rinse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iodophor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Iodophor&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Its major advantage over other sanitizers is that when used in proper proportions, it does not require rinsing. However, it can leave unattractive orange-brown stains on plastic parts and equipment if left in contact with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should not use sanitizer after cleaning and before storage. It's a waste of sanitizer as you will need to do so again before use. The exception is sealing a cleaned and sanitized keg under pressure with CO2. With plastics, the sanitizer may break down the material over time (as well as stain it with Iodophor), so best to store clean, and sanitize before use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/cleaning.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article is a good reference.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T21:13:35.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16397" CreationDate="2015-11-05T21:29:03.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The three Dunkelweizens I've brewed all finished high, 1.018, 1.022 and 1.017, and the style calls for 1.010 to 1.014, but I find the inclusion of wheat and munich malt is less fermentable than the lighter malts. I've used 3068 twice and a dry yeast from Mangrove Jack's (M20, which I don't recommend). I've also used 3333 in several weizens but not a dunkelweizen. Having said that, 1.028 is pretty high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not finished, you are in bottle bomb danger, especially if you over prime. As long as you have a safe place to store them, bottle bombs aren't the worst thing in the world, but they can shoot glass...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably your safest bet is to take a gravity reading, wait 5 days and take another gravity reading. If it hasn't moved, it probably won't move any further. If you have temperature control, raise it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do bottle at that gravity, I would recommend trying a bottle once every 5 days or so, and if it gets super carbonated, move the entire batch to a fridge if you can. That will also help the fermentation subside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T21:29:03.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-06T10:06:34.577" Score="2" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a Hydromel (beer-strength mead) around 5% using champagne yeast. After fermentation I split it into a few small batches... some I added ginger, some I added orange zest, some remained un-modified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After leaving for a while, I then primed it all and bottled. But for some reason while the un-modified version carbonated very nicely, the orange-zested one has remained totally flat. I don't know if the orange could be to blame, or if it's more likely the way I bottled it could have killed the yeast? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some common/likely reasons that bottle-carbonation wouldn't work, given that the sugar levels were the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T13:11:06.300" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T13:11:06.300" Title="What would cause bottle-carbonation to fail?" Tags="|carbonation|mead|priming|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16445" CreationDate="2015-11-06T10:31:21.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a common factoid that oranges are usually sprayed with fungicides for transport. If you do not wash them enough, some of it may end up in your mead and kill your yeast. My friend, who happens to be catering technician, always washes them for good few minutes using brush, if she wants to use zest for anything. Even longer before we put it in my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T11:16:50.070" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T11:16:50.070" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16448" CreationDate="2015-11-05T08:35:14.973" Score="2" ViewCount="785" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been cooling my wort after all the boiling by simply taking it off the heat and waiting two to three hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have now seen a few places where they use an ice bath to cool the wort much faster. What would the difference in the end product be when you comparing post rolling boil wort cooled with an ice bath to those simply left at room temperature to cool down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wort is sealed from outside air with a spigot and a improvised air lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" OwnerDisplayName="Neil Meyer" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T16:08:58.827" Title="Cooling the wort without an ice bath" Tags="|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16447" CreationDate="2015-11-06T13:29:31.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The technique you describe is called &quot;No-chill&quot; (see question &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9699/no-chill-brewing&quot;&gt;9699&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5327/is-rapid-wort-chilling-always-needed/5374#5374&quot;&gt;5374&lt;/a&gt;) and is used by lots of homebrewers.  Usually the hot wort is placed in a sealed food grade jerry can and allowed to cool overnight.  Since the container is sealed and the boiling wort has heat sanitized the inside, the wort should store for months without spoiling and thus beer can be fermented whenever you get around to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware of using the air lock during cooling as the water in the air lock will probably get sucked back into the wort as it cools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference between a slow and fast cool is the hop utilization.  The aroma hops (last 10 mins of boil) will stay in a hot solution longer during no chill and probably be utilized more like flavor hops (20-45 mins) so the final product may have less hop nose.  Rapid chilling ensures that the last hop addition will contribute to the hoppy aroma.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many more &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/search?q=no%20chill&quot;&gt;no chill&lt;/a&gt; questions and answers on &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;homebrew.stackexchange.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12815" OwnerDisplayName="Rube" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T13:29:31.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-07T04:21:25.253" Score="1" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started brewing mead and during my first racking I noticed a chemically smell that had a alcohol vinyl smell. I can't figure out if my mead has turned or not. I did another racking today and it still had that same smell... I've replaced my tube (with a new vinyl tube) and I smelled my new tube and it had the same smell before I've even used it... long story short if my mead ruined or how do I remove the chemically vinyl smell?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12899" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T07:18:58.903" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T10:11:40.117" Title="Off smell in my mead" Tags="|mead|brewing|tubing|spoilage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-07T11:32:41.130" Score="0" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing a Black Rock...&quot;Miners Stout&quot; .  and it's been nearly a week in the fermenter with none to very little movement in the airlock. !&#xA;Seems odd as to all the other stouts that I have brewed.&#xA;Would this mean a faulty beer mix ?  the fermenter is sealed as for using vasaline &#xA;around the thread and rubber seal...plus the rubber bung and the end of the airlock.&#xA;Temp; has been at 24c .  (as on a heat pad).&#xA;OG= 1055.&#xA;There is a thin line of Krausen around fermenter.&#xA;Your thoughts would be welcome.&#xA;From ...Darkest-porter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12600" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T06:47:18.687" Title="No air lock activity" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-11-10T14:21:38.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-07T15:21:32.390" Score="0" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only find German pilsner malt for brewing in my country. I can find fuggles, saaz, brewers gold, cascade, Syrian,target 2014,HALLERTAU HERSBRUCKER types of hops. and I can find most common fermentis yeast types. what would you brew? or what recipe can you suggest to me with these ingredients?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12672" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T22:00:20.193" Title="can you suggest a recipe for these hops and fermentables?" Tags="|malt|brewing|pilsner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16441" CreationDate="2015-11-07T15:42:52.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you split a 15 gallon batch into two 7.5 gallon batches, the 30lb grain alone will take up 2.34gallons of volume (30 * 10 / 128), as according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/appendices/appendix-d/sizing-the-tun&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sizing the tun&lt;/a&gt; from HowToBrew, grain volume is 10 fluid oz per pound. Plugging in a 7.5 gallon batch at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brew365&lt;/a&gt;, at a mash thickness of 1.5qt/lb, the water alone is 11.25 gallons. In order to get the mash to fit, you'd have to use a mash thickness of 1.0qt/lb. Then the mash water would be 7.5g and should fit with the 2.34g of grain, 9.84g. However, you will likely not get great efficiency at that mash thickness. It will also be difficult to stir without spilling, and difficult to stir effectively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you haven't tried this before, it's probably easiest to measure your first runnings, and calculate your total sparge water as &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Total volume of sparge water = Target pre-boil volume - volume of first runnings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the previous calculator, your target pre-boil wort is 9.26g. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The available volume in your tun is roughly &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;10g(tun vol) - 9.84g(mash vol) + Xg(first running)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your sparge water needed exceeds that, you'll need to do more than one batch, or fly sparge. Going back to the calculator, it estimates you'll need 6.66g of sparge water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sake of an example, lets say your first running is 4 gallons. Then 10 - 9.84 + 4 = 4.16g. If you split the sparge in half, and ran 3.33g, then another 3.33g, you should come close to your target.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing you may be able to get away with two batch sparges, maybe 3, depending on your first runnings volume. If you're setup on both systems to fly sparge, you could do that as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last concern is that if you are going to split the batch into 10 and 5 gallons for boiling, and 5 gallons 3 ways for fermenting, you will still need to somehow mix all the pre-boil wort together, otherwise it will be &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/mead/item/1963-parti-gyle-brewing-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;parti-gyle&lt;/a&gt;, where the gravity is different for each boil, which will produce different results. I'm not really sure how to accomplish this without using a ~20 gallon container. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to brew on the systems you have. If you have three, 5-gallon boil/fermentation setups, and two 5 gallon mash setups, I would recommend two parallel and one consecutive mash, into three kettles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T20:04:57.780" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T20:04:57.780" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="180" CreationDate="2015-11-07T18:01:34.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;clean&quot; &quot;sanitize&quot; &quot;sterilize&quot; are all terms used by the FDA.  the comments explaining the relative log level of effectiveness are spot on:  sanitize: log 5 ~ 99.999 effectiveness is all that is required for any food manufacturing (ie: brewery) or food service establishment (ie: restaurant)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12901" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T18:01:34.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16451" CreationDate="2015-11-07T19:13:43.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With only pilsner malt*, your options are pretty limited, but you are not helpless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style02.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pils&lt;/a&gt;, of course&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else would you brew if you have only malt designed for it? If you can keep low temperatures, go for it! With access both to saaz and German hops, you can try both German and Czech varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style14.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pale Ales&lt;/a&gt; can work as well&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pilsner and pale ale malts are pretty much interchangeable, if you are not brewing pils itself. Sure, it won't be award-winning (probably), but you can get close enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style08.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bitters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They call for touch of black malt, but if you have oven and patience, you can turn some of your pilsner black on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style13.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dry Stout&lt;/a&gt; seems doable as well&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It calls for roasted barley in addition to pale malt. If you can just buy unmalted barley, roast it and here you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, you have pretty neat choice. Top and bottom fermentation, pale, red or black, you have a whole range in reach if you will put your heart into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* I find it really, really hard to believe that's the only thing you can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T19:13:43.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2015-11-07T20:48:56.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try captain brew recipe builder. Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.captainbrew.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the link&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;You build a recipe, adjust gravity, bitterness, scale, and create a brew session&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T20:48:56.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12252" CreationDate="2015-11-07T20:49:57.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I know this is old but I thought I'd comment. Not that mdma's great answer really needs any follow up but... I'm going to throw in my two cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under sufficient pressure a small amount of co2 reacts with the water in beer and turns into carbonic acid. If you compare the slightly more tart taste of a beer compared to its flat counterpart you are tasting trace amounts of carbonic acid. Not necessarily a bad thing for most beers which are acidic anyway. However, porters are typically less acidic. some have pH's greater than 7. A gas that doesn't dissociate (inert) helps keep the pH up. N2 isn't the best choice, but it's a really good one. In gas analysis, such as mass spectroscopy where an inert gas is required. Nitrogen is the goto gas due to it's affordability. Helium is better.less soluble in anything since it can't dissociate. I would think it would work really well, for porters at least. Really expensive though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12902" LastEditorUserId="12902" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T13:36:37.470" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T13:36:37.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16451" CreationDate="2015-11-07T22:00:20.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you have an oven, you can make that pils malt into toast/roast specialty grains and go wild. See some suggestions by John Palmer to start and take it from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-4/experiment/toasting-your-own-malt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-4/experiment/toasting-your-own-malt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T22:00:20.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-08T12:18:09.247" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/16311/12577&quot;&gt;used to have a problem&lt;/a&gt; - too much water due to extracting every last bit of sugar. That gave me 90% to 95% efficiency, but also it was a lot of work to boil it down to manageable and usable amounts of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time I aimed at 70%. I created my grain bill to target 12 Brix (around 1.048 OG). It was simple, 2.5 kg pale ale and 2.5 kg wheat malts. I only sparged to get my 30 liters of preboil volume and then let the rest go to the sink. &quot;Sadly&quot;, it turned out I did things generally better and yet again - I hit about 16 Brix (1.065) at the end. It seems I still managed to get 90% to 95% sugars, in less water. Good thing, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do not have capabilities to pitch two fermentors now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I plainly refuse to waste such a good wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style06.php#1d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;american wheat&lt;/a&gt; it'll be too strong. And I really wanted it to be a session beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the bright side, hops I added should bring it to around 35 IBU (here I was intentionally out of style), so even with increased maltiness it should be balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options now? Is fermenting it as is a good way? Do I really have any alternatives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was time and past time to pitch it, but I still want to know what I could have done. Answers telling focusing on fermentation as is would be especially valuable, but I'll appreciate all of them - even ones I can't use &lt;em&gt;now&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T13:09:46.040" Title="What to do when american wheat ale turned out to have too high extract?" Tags="|all-grain|efficiency|wheat-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-08T21:01:31.847" Score="3" ViewCount="976" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to ask what is the general feeling of using a &quot;Conical&quot; fermenter rather than a normal flat based fermenting barrel.?                                                    I realize that you cannot use a heat pad, so would have to use heat belts.                See they have 2 valves to the base, one being to drain the beer/yeast sludge with the one above for the transfer to bottling ?                                        Be good to understand other brewers experience's of all this fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12600" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T15:50:16.063" Title="Conical verses flat based fermenters" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16466" CreationDate="2015-11-09T01:23:47.180" Score="1" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I find affordable hops in Europe (Belgium, France or Hungary would be best)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T18:23:36.300" Title="Affordable hops in Europe" Tags="|beer|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16336" CreationDate="2015-11-09T02:57:48.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I primary ferment more than 5 gallons, typically 6,  and the secondary and age in a 5 gallon.  I can then fill the smaller carboy to the right level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12698" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T02:57:48.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16450" CreationDate="2015-11-09T06:47:18.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be that your yeast is bad, it is too cold or it might just be a leak that you are not aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a gravity reading to know if your yeast is working or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T06:47:18.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16465" CreationDate="2015-11-09T09:12:51.673" Score="3" ViewCount="1418" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia says about Amber Malt the following...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amber malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Amber malt is a more toasted form of pale malt, kilned at temperatures&#xA;  of 150–160 °C, and is used in brown porter; older formulations of&#xA;  brown porter use amber malt as a base malt [2](though this was&#xA;  diastatic and produced in different conditions from a modern amber&#xA;  malt). Amber malt has a bitter flavor which mellows on aging, and can&#xA;  be quite intensely flavored; in addition to its use in porter, it also&#xA;  appears in a diverse range of British beer recipes. ASBC 50-70/EBC&#xA;  100–140; &lt;strong&gt;amber malt has no diastatic power&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly does that last part mean? Does it mean Amber Malt does not give off enough sugars when boiled and is therefore not suitable for use as a primary grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The website I bought it from said nothing about it not being suitable as a primary grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T17:00:39.887" Title="Is Amber Malt suitable to use as a primary grain?" Tags="|all-grain|grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16463" CreationDate="2015-11-09T10:13:27.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Not this one&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;no diastatic power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that there are no active enzymes. Or at least none that could create maltose, so even if you would create some wort-like liquid, it would not be good beer wort. It have enough starch, it just lack the power to make it usable for your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;But if you really want to&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you may simply buy alpha and beta amylase from a shop. It comes in little bags and if you will buy from beer craft store, it will have amount of malt one bag can convert printed on the package. Mix it with water before mash-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;However&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amber malt added in moderate quantity, like 10%, gives pretty strong amber colour and bread / toast taste. 100% of it might give you just too much. Now when you mentioned it, I would love to try the effect, but I wouldn't bet on it's &quot;drinkability&quot;. For an experiment, fine. For simplistic amber beer, take 10% Amber and 90% Pale Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Słodownia Srzegom, biggest malting house in my country, &lt;a href=&quot;http://dmgp.com.pl/specyfikacje/pl/slod_bursztynowy.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;advises using from 2 to 12%&lt;/a&gt; of it, depending on style. My &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.piwnykraft.pl/pl/p/Slod-Bursztynowy-Strzegom-0,1-kg/343&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;local shop claims&lt;/a&gt; it can be used as up to 30% of grain bill, I don't know where they got this number from, but at least it clearly indicates that this is not a base malt. And I can believe that in optimal conditions 30% might be doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry that links are in my language - style names and percentages should be understandable anyway, and I'm willing to edit in additional references. These ones are, frankly, simply from the malting house and shop I bought things from and have positive experience with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T11:44:31.620" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T11:44:31.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16463" CreationDate="2015-11-09T15:58:21.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No diastatic power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Means that this malt does not have the required enzymes to break down starches into sugars.  In other words, you need to add some malt that has diastatic power in conjunction to make it work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diastatic power is measured in &lt;em&gt;Lintner degrees&lt;/em&gt;.  It is estimated that you need a minimum 30°L in your mash to have sufficient diastatic power (40°L according to wikipedia).  The less power you have, more time will be needed to convert starches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider modifying your recipe. So, if you add up to 30% of 2-Row or Maris Otter Malt to your mash, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is easy to confuse the Lintner degree with the Lovibond degree (used for color) on websites. The bold &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;L°&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is used for Lintner and regular &lt;em&gt;L°&lt;/em&gt; for Lovibond, but some website use only the words &lt;em&gt;diastatic power&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Lintner degree examples, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=276067&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HBT&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;American 2 Row Pale Malt: 140 &lt;strong&gt;°L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;American 6 Row Pale Malt: 160 &lt;strong&gt;°L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;British Pale Malts: 40-70 &lt;strong&gt;°L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maris Otter Pale Malt: 120 &lt;strong&gt;°L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belgian Pale Malt (2 row): 60 &lt;strong&gt;°L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;German Pilsner Malt: 110 &lt;strong&gt;°L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Munich Malt (10 SRM): 70 &lt;strong&gt;°L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Munich Malt (20 SRM): 25 &lt;strong&gt;°L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vienna Malt: 50 &lt;strong&gt;°L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheat Malt, German: 60-90 &lt;strong&gt;°L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheat, Unmalted (flaked, Torrified): 0 &lt;strong&gt;°L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crystal Malt (all): 0 &lt;strong&gt;°L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chocolate Malt: 0 &lt;strong&gt;°L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black Patent Malts: 0 &lt;strong&gt;°L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article explains diastatic power well : &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2010/01/04/diastatic-power-and-mashing-your-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beersmith article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;More information about Lintner degree : &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Degree_Lintner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T17:00:39.887" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T17:00:39.887" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16460" CreationDate="2015-11-09T18:23:36.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest provider of homebrew supplies in Europe is brouwland.com. They are located in Beverlo, Belgium and are a supplier for nearly every online retailer in continental Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most online retailers I have tried to use charge fairly hefty shipping fees on international parcels, so depending on where you live (or where you want your hops shipped to), you may have to worry more about transport costs than the hops pricing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brouwland does sell discount (read: close to expiry date) hops by the 100g, 250g and kg, usually for up to 50% off.  If you want them shipped to France, it may be worth it.  If you want them shipped to Romania (eu sunt in Romania) it will not be worth the trouble.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in Romania, there is a Brouwland distributor in Bucuresti (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fabrica-de-bere.ro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fabrica-de-bere.ro&lt;/a&gt;).  His prices are decent (10-25 lei/100g depending on the type of hop) and shipping is not as extravagant as with other retailers.  Plus you'll get your hops by curier within 48 hours (weekday orders).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are anywhere else in continental Europe, you can check &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brouwland.com/en/distributors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brouwland's distributor listings&lt;/a&gt; (many are in local languages, so get Google Translate ready) for the closest and cheapest shipping options for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12909" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T18:23:36.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2015-11-10T14:48:46.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;start from a good temperature controller for brewery, like Pixsys Atr 621. the support will suggest you what to buy and what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12920" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T14:48:46.670" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-11-10T14:48:46.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-10T22:20:31.213" Score="1" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just syphoned a youngs 30 bottle kit into a plastic 5 gallon fermenter. How should I store this to stop it going bad?&#xA;What's the highest temperature it can be stored at safely?&#xA;and how can I ensure air doesn't get to the wine (I'm assuming as CO2 is released from the wine it should act as a buffer?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I really be bottling the wine? In the past I've found that a day or so after filling up a bottle of the stuff it's gone nasty (I suspect due to air exposure) and the sheer volume in the fermenter keeps most of it away from oxidation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips would be appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10685" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T13:48:39.737" Title="Keep Homebrew Fresh" Tags="|wine|temperature|storage|fermenter|sour|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16470" CreationDate="2015-11-10T22:48:43.640" Score="1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the size of a starter always dictate the cell count of yeast irregardless of how much yeast you started with (ignoring other factors such as aeration, wort density etc)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance let's take two scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I have a 100 mL starter with the cell count of 2 billion. I created a new starter that is 600 mL. I now have a cell count of 8 billion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) 1) I have a 100 mL starter with the cell count of 1 billion. I created a new starter that is 600 mL. I now have a cell count of 8 billion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The math isn't necessarily correct because I forget how it all works, but what I'm trying to illustrate is that no matter how much yeast you started with your always going to have a constant cell count based on the volume of wort. Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3592" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T00:13:41.363" Title="Is yeast cell count a constant function of starter size?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16469" CreationDate="2015-11-11T00:13:41.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is not true. &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/blog/blog/2012/11/03/estimating-yeast-growth/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The &quot;yield factor&quot; of yeast is a function of both the starter volume &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the inoculation rate.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T00:13:41.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16473" CreationDate="2015-11-11T09:42:03.647" Score="7" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was amazed at how much better my home brews are getting from just leaving them be? Why is that? How exactly can the flavour of beer  improve by just leaving it alone in a non-reactive container? I would love to learn the science behind this phenomenon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started with a kg of oats. I decided I wanted to know what coco powder would do in beer? I also thought I would like to know what a few coffee grains would do. So I added them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only did a 45 minute boil no hops. I usually do an hour but simply put the African heat got to me. I used an ice bath this time and after adding the yeast I left it over night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day I tried some before I went to bottle but was somewhat disappointed. The coco made it extremely bitter. I also realised that the coco powder I used was a energy type of drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This meant it had a whole list of minerals in. This seemed to me to add a very harsh bitter  taste to it. I was almost ready to consider the experiment a failure but to my surprise I tried some today and the harshness seemed to mellow out a great deal. Also the taste of the oats is now much more prominent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was amazing to me how big of a difference one day could make. I'm tempted to leave it for a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="12900" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T05:58:22.347" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T17:52:31.643" Title="Why does my beer keep getting better the longer I leave it to rest?" Tags="|aging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-14T12:45:11.413" Score="2" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I talk about this device: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewolution.com/index.php/en/brewster-page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewolution.com/index.php/en/brewster-page&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;It's 28 liter kettle. What is a max output volume if I do allgrain? I have 20 liter fermenters.&#xA;How to chill the wort to 25C in the output of this kettle?&#xA;The sparging step uses wort from the kettle or new water from outside?&#xA;Did you see any video instructions for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12855" OwnerDisplayName="Hersh" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T15:41:36.473" Title="Anyone has experience with Brewolution Brewster device" Tags="|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16471" CreationDate="2015-11-11T13:58:13.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When its really fresh its still a sum of its parts.  Water, yeast, malt and hops.  In time the flavors marry and it becomes beer.&#xA;I know that sounds hokey but its the exact same thing as simmering soup.&#xA;At first its just water, vegetables meat and salt.  But after a long simmer its something better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scientifically, who knows whats really going on chemically, but certainly compounds are combining to make new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In beer another thing is physical settling.  As it sits there are inert particles from the grain, hops and yeast that take time to settle out to the bottom of the bottle or keg. These things may not taste bad but they may mask other less subtle flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, the reactivity of the container has nothing to do with it.  It literally is the many components slowing coming into a single thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask any chef or cook and they will tell you the same thing.  Its not a scientific answer, but its real.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T13:58:13.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13435" CreationDate="2015-11-11T14:54:53.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply put it tells you when the ginger beer is ready to drink. When you add the raisins they rise and fall but when the yeast has converted enough of the sugars the raisins float.  You can also eat them. They are really tasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did not know this was a South African tradition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T14:54:53.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-11T18:04:34.887" Score="1" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be too specific but I will ask anyway.  I love Fat Tire but would like to modify a little.  The holy grail of beer would be a Fat Tire but more biscuit, more toasty caramel taste and fuller mouth feel. Any recommendations would be appreciated.  Even if it isn't a recipe, perhaps grains that present these specific tastes would help.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12689" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T16:22:59.380" Title="Making a Modified Fat Tire Clone" Tags="|grain|taste|clone-recipe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16477" CreationDate="2015-11-11T22:26:56.800" Score="2" ViewCount="759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently started homebrewing, and my very first batch is a batch of cider that my wife requested I add raspberry and lime flavours to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, my brewing tub has a tap fitted about 1.5&quot; above the bottom of the tub, but the tub also came with a syphon tube. Once all the sediment is settled, should i be safe to use the tap to bottle the cider, or should i always use the syphon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12922" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T22:36:27.623" Title="Should i use the syphon or tap?" Tags="|cider|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16476" CreationDate="2015-11-11T22:36:27.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest the siphon, since usually they're designed to take (almost) all the liquid while sucking up minimal sediment.  You probably have a little cap at the end of your siphon for that purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your sediment reaches below 1.5&quot; I guess it doesn't matter if you prefer the tap. However, you might leave more liquid behind that way, if you don't actually have a lot of sediment.  Also, if you choose the tap, you should probably still run the liquid through a tube to your bottling bucket* or keg to keep exposure to oxygen down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) you can skip the bottling bucket if you don't have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T22:36:27.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16468" CreationDate="2015-11-12T02:28:43.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What did you make exactly?  I don't know much about wine, but I would follow commercial storage conventions for the style you made.  I think storage temperatures should be lowish unless the style specifically says otherwise, but I'm hesitant to mention a number. 50s-60s would make me more comfortable than 30s-40s or 70s-80s I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some general tips about avoiding oxygen contact include never pour until it's about to go into your mouth, don't splash, and, since you're doing wine, perhaps you should cork it? If you plan long-term storage, perhaps just store it in a glass carboy with an airlock. I've seen that work with mead for 2+ years, but grape wine may be different. CO2 is a heavy gas, so it should act as a buffer, as you say, and this would work better if the temperature stays stable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Introducing controlled CO2 could help if oxygen exposure is really a problem. I think the Blichmann Beer gun has a feature that lets you fill a bottle with CO2 before you fill it with beer; maybe you can adapt that to wine? For really long-term storage, once fermentation is complete, a keg with a bed of CO2 on top of the wine might help.   I think you probably need to pressurize to 5 PSI or so to keep a seal, which might result in a slight carbonation. Basically you would fill the keg, pump CO2 in, purge, and then do it again without purging. There are small kegs you can buy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your sanitation regimen.  Bottles should be clean and sanitized, no visible residue or scratches and should be exposed to a light sanitary solution or baked immediately before filling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, avoid contact with light.  Cellars are used for alcohol storage because they're dark, dry, and cool!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T02:28:43.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16484" CreationDate="2015-11-12T03:37:24.580" Score="3" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;In planning for a sour ale with peaches and apricot, we did a bit of research on the microorganisms typically used for making sours and put together a recipe for a fairly basic pale ale with Saccharomyces, Brettanomyces, and Pediococcus, adding the fruit during primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our local homebrew shop, however, was out of Brett but we were able to pick up everything else, thinking we'd just use the pedio. After some additional research though, it seems that Brett is practically seen as a requirement with pedio due to its heavy production of diacetyls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should we hold off on brewing until we can get Brett or is there something else we can do to help limit diacetyl production?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something that could be addressed with a diacetyl rest (maybe in combination with pitching additional yeast?)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T13:31:46.767" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T13:31:46.767" Title="Sour Ale With Pedio but Without Brett" Tags="|sour|diacetyl-rest|brettanomyces|pediococcus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16479" CreationDate="2015-11-12T03:53:01.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right on the common combination of pedio and brett due to diacetyl production.  But pedio doesn't start working for 2-4 months, and has a time-frame of 4-9+ months. So you have plenty of time to source brett to add to help with diacetyl production from the pedio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm honestly not sure if a traditional lager-style diacetyl rest (probably with newly-pitched sacc. yeast) would help with pedio-produced diacetyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T03:53:01.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16475" CreationDate="2015-11-12T07:02:41.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zymurgy magazine has recipes for the the Amber and the Belgian.&#xA;Jul/Aug 2006 New Belgium Fat Tire Clone&#xA;Jul/Aug 2003 Fat Tire Amber Ale Clone&#xA;You have to be a member to access the recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a lot of clone recipes:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmithrecipes.com/searchrecipe?term=fat%20tire&amp;amp;submit.x=0&amp;amp;submit.y=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beersmith Recipes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the recipes and determine what you think is a good median. Brew that. Taste and decide where that lands to what you wanted. You may want to increase the mash temp a degree or two (celcius). This will give you more body and will increase the residual sugars/sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T07:02:41.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16475" CreationDate="2015-11-12T09:47:56.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=211830&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; recipe &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=2477610&amp;amp;postcount=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;came from the original authors&lt;/a&gt; of the beer you are cloning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fat Tire Clone (December):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5 gal, OG = 1.050, FG = 1.013&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;IBU = 19, SRM = 14, ABV = 4.7%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;8# 10 oz. 2-row Pale Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1# Munich Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;8 oz. Crystal Malt (80L) 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;oz. Victory Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;0.4 oz. Target (60 min.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;0.5 oz. Willamette (10 min.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;0.5 oz. Goldings (0 min.) Wyeast 1272 or Wyeast 1792 or WLP051 Yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To modify, substitute some of base or munich with biscuit or melanoidin malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T09:47:56.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16436" CreationDate="2015-11-12T22:21:54.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In answer to your question, whether or not you clarify cider depends primarily on your end use.  If this is tasty cider you want to share with friends and family around the Thanksgiving table, then I would say no, you don't need to clarify it because there should be no flavor impact.  If you want to show it off for competition (keep in mind clarity only counts for two points out of fifty), or you are planning on showcasing it in your finest crystal, then you might want to clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you clarify will depend upon the nature of the haze.  If it is suspended particulates, like yeast, then you can try something like gelatin.  However, if you have a pectin haze, perhaps as the result of heating the juice before fermentation, then a fining agent won't be very effective and you might want to try adding a pectin enzyme to break it down (though it won't be as effective post-ferment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T22:21:54.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16479" CreationDate="2015-11-13T12:52:52.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly pitch the Brett later.  As mentioned the Brett will help with diacetyl, but it also helps with the ropey dextrinous 'gunk' that Pedi starts to throw in there.  Without Brett that stuff doesn't clear out very easily.  You need Brett to break that stuff down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T12:52:52.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16458" CreationDate="2015-11-13T13:09:46.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there was much you could do on the fermentation side to fix anything.  I'd still have planned ferment it out, plan to dry hop it heavily to try and create a little more balance.  Then I'd learn form the experience and get ready to re-brew the beer I wanted to brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To limit your efficiency, you could sparge a little faster or ease up on the degree of your crush.  Hard to say as we don't know why your efficiency is so high.  (Too high some may say for making great beer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted a 1.048 beer your could have diluted an appropriate volume of the 1.065 wort down to 1.048.  I would have maybe saved the rest for use in starter wort. That way you wouldn't feel so bad tossing out wort.  You need to consider the cost of the wort in time and money.  It really isn't that big a deal to toss out a gallon or a few quarts.  The time and money spent re-brewing later to get the beer you want should out way the costs of that small amount of wort to toss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T13:09:46.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16449" CreationDate="2015-11-13T13:22:10.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you picked up vinyl smell from fresh tubing it won't leave the mead.  It may fade in time, but along with some of the other good smells in the mead too, because it will take a long time.  And in a closed container that aroma isn't going anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T13:22:10.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16468" CreationDate="2015-11-13T13:48:39.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If its done fermenting getting it into bottles is better than a plastic bucket.  All buckets absorb/transmit O2 at some rate.  And depending on your lid, it might not be the plastic at all that's introducing O2.  The O2 will ingress regardless of the CO2 unless its pressure is high (which it isn't).  It will attempt to equilibrate no matter what.  O2 comes in and CO2 bleeds out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little oxygen pick up when bottling shouldn't hurt your wine that much.  I've never experienced that bad an issue when I bottle our wine.  However, there is a phenomenon called bottle-shock.  It occurs during bottling obviously and may be what you are noticing; as you said the wine is less pleasant but not undrinkable.  The wine should recover while sitting in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also rest our bottles upright for the first 3-5 days post bottling.  Then they go to their side for a month or so before drinking... and longer storage. (Which reminds me I noticed last night a couple cases of wine that need to get tipped over soon!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T13:48:39.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16491" CreationDate="2015-11-13T19:08:03.897" Score="4" ViewCount="7738" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making Limoncello, I have added 8 lemon zests to 1 liter of 96% alcohol and put everything in a big glass container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 1 month I started making the real liqueur by diluting the alcohol down with a sugar syrup. The sugar syrup consists of a dilution of 800 grams sugar in 1 liter of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've put the big container on a scale, used the tare button to put it to zero. In all my silliness I've decided to use the scale/a weight factor in order to 'measure' my dilution - so I went on and added 1 kilogram of my sugar syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the next time it would be better to measure an amount of 1 liter of sugar syrup instead of 1 kilogram - but I am still thinking about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am calculating like crazy, but I cannot really figure it out. The most simple and erroneous calculation would be to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 L alcohol + 1 Liter/Kilogram sugar syrup = 2 Liter/Kilograms&#xA;1 L alcohol = 96%&#xA;2 L mixture = 96 / 2 = 48%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I know this is wrong. I however cannot figure out how and why this is wrong. Diluting alcohol with water will work this way, I guess. But the added parts sugar to the water makes it hard. So the questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much alcohol do I have in my mixture?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I calculate alcohol percentages after diluting with a certain sugar syrup concentration?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12930" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T08:02:39.390" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T19:25:41.810" Title="Calculating alcohol percentage after diluting with a sugar syrup" Tags="|alcohol-content|dilution|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-13T20:45:26.740" Score="1" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;With my budget being somewhat limited I can only really afford to put my wine into sanitised used bottles from store bought wine, rather than proper bottles with corks. My main concern is oxidation and I'm wondering if I'm better off keeping the bulk of my wine in the fermenter (all cleared and syphoned - ready to drink) until I come to drink it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As my wine is still fairly carbonated is there a way to ensure the head-space of the bottle would be purged of oxygen? or will it always be a matter of time before it goes sour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10685" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T21:24:28.740" Title="Recycling Screw-top Bottles for Homebrew" Tags="|wine|bottles|fermenter|oxidation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16489" CreationDate="2015-11-13T21:24:28.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a corker, &lt;strong&gt;you can use a cork&lt;/strong&gt; on wine screw-top bottles.  Even if the opening is sometimes lightly smaller, the cork will go in. I tried it many times with success, I also used corks with Scotch bottles with success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping wine in a &lt;strong&gt;plastic primary fermenter&lt;/strong&gt; for a long time is not a good idea after the fermentation is done, they are not 100% air tight.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;glass carboy&lt;/strong&gt;, with a proper bung is a better option as long as your carboy is filled close to the top and the temperature is not too hot.  But then, when you will want to drink it, you will have to bottle it since you cannot leave your carboy half full...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the end, if you bottle using the &lt;strong&gt;screw-tops&lt;/strong&gt;, your wine will be fine in the short term (weeks and maybe months) if well screwed.  I am not certain how long it will take before the wine spoils, it may depend on many factors like how much gas there is still inside, how much acidity and tannins, sulfites, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adding sulfites will protect your wine&lt;/strong&gt; against oxidation.  You may look into adding a few campden tablets, it will buy you some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T21:24:28.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16488" CreationDate="2015-11-14T00:48:30.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because alcohol concentration is measured in terms of volume, the key question in this is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the volume of 1kg of sugar syrup?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming dissolving the sugar in water doesn't change the total volume much, your liter of sugar syrup weighs 1kg + 800g = 1.8kg.  Assuming it was perfectly mixed, the kilogram you added was only 1/1.8 = 0.555... = 55.6% water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So your total volume should be 1.556 liters.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if I'm wrong you can also measure the volume you actually have and use that amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in terms of alcohol, one liter of that total 1.556 liters was 96% alcohol, so you total ABV should be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   1L * 0.96ABV&#xA;------------------ = 0.6169 ABV = 61.69%&#xA;1.556L (or actual)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, adjust for your total volume if necessary.  But it should be close to 62%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; it should be noted, per the discussion in the comments, that the volume may change with the ABV. However, this should be fairly minimal and likely offset/limited by the sugar in the syrup you added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be a lot of data on mixing alcoholic substances with anything but pure water for dilution, so giving an exact answer without running an experiment would be difficult. That said, the method above should be a fairly good estimate given everything I've seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-11-15T16:05:05.243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T16:05:05.243" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16677" CreationDate="2015-11-14T13:21:04.330" Score="2" ViewCount="4752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm bottling a mead to pass out around Christmas time. I know mead isn't traditionally carbonated, but I want that satisfying cork pop and super effervescence. I have a floor champagne corker and an assortment of champagne bottles, belgian bottles and 375mL Vinnie bottles (Russian River). I'd rather not bottle everything in 750mL as I don't want to give away ALL my mead. So I'm thinking of using the 375mL Vinnie bottles, although I read somewhere Vinnie recommended not exceeding 4 volumes CO2 in those. They can take a champagne cork and cage. So my question is, will 4 volumes CO2 be enough to create that POP? At the very least I want them easy to pop out with great carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 750mL champagne bottles (with the dimples at bottom), I know they can handle ~7 volumes CO2, so that's what I'll do for those. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'll experiment with a few before committing to bottling the full 10 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** EDIT: It has been a while since I corked and didn't think it through. I'll be using belgian corks for the 375mL and champagne corks for the real champagne bottles. I think 4 volumes CO2 will be plenty to pop the belgian cork... it just won't be the same as actual champagne. I don't know of any 375mL that can handle that kind of pressure (typically that have that dimple at the bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1829" LastEditorUserId="1829" LastEditDate="2015-11-14T13:53:01.163" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T21:49:43.783" Title="How many volumes CO2 will push out a champagne cork?" Tags="|carbonation|mead|co2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-14T18:44:48.287" Score="2" ViewCount="316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I set a 1gallon shiraz kit going this afternoon, this is my first wine. I have sealed the demijon with a bung and put an airlock in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 4 hours, I have yet to see a single bubble come through the water in the airlock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this usual? How long do I usually wait to see these bubbles? Or any sort of visual confirmation that the fermentation is actually working? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12922" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T23:10:20.797" Title="Wine time frame?" Tags="|wine|first-time-brewer|airlock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16493" CreationDate="2015-11-14T19:14:51.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the yeast, really. Krausen in wine may be thin to nonexistent. Bubbling may be slow. If your installation is not exactly airtight, you may never see a bubble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't expect any signs before 8 hours. Wouldn't worry before 24 to 48 hours (depending on temperature), and wouldn't try to intervene before 3 days. After 3 days, if you still don't see any bubbles in airlock, no tiny bubbles or krausen on surface, and no bubbles when you gently swirl your carboy (small enough for it), then you may start to think if it is working or not. Sadly, only sure way to know is to take gravity readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T19:14:51.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-15T01:15:03.270" Score="1" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about getting into Homebrew as I love my beer and thought it would be fun to brew some of my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am from the UK and was just wondering what the best starter kit is that's available in this country, as there is so many different ones to choose from, so I was looking for some help in which ones to choose. They all seem to be pretty similar, so just wondered if any of them stand out above the rest, or if it's safe to go with any old starter kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen these two sites, just not sure which starter kit to purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brew UK&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Home_Brew_Beer_Starter_Kits.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Homebrew Shop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw this post already &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/145/can-anyone-recommend-a-starters-kit-available-in-the-uk&quot;&gt;Can anyone recommend a starters kit, available in the UK?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;but it's 5 years old so wondered if there was any more up to date advice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will be much appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;Gareth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12925" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T05:33:10.343" Title="How do I decide between all the starter kits available in the UK?" Tags="|kits|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16497" CreationDate="2015-11-15T01:21:41.397" Score="4" ViewCount="8069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of asking for a Homebrew Starter kit for Christmas this year and would like to set it up to brew and ferment in my garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I am wondering, will it be too cold to brew beer or ferment in the garage over the winter? I am based in the UK, so it will get pretty cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I need to get some sort of heating in the garage to be able to successfully brew beer? Or should I start the process in the house, before moving it to the garage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gareth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12925" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T21:57:17.977" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T10:42:28.780" Title="Will it be too cold to brew in my garage over the winter?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16496" CreationDate="2015-11-15T03:23:06.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold weather won't negatively impact brewing, other than you may use a bit more propane. All the local brewers I know (in colorful Colorado) who use propane, including myself, brew in garages during the winter, to cut down on the cold, but it's really a comfort issue for the brewer more than anything else. I brew in my backyard most of the time, even in the winter, but if there's a lot of snow or wind, I move it to the garage so I can maintain a rolling boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation is a different issue. However, I ferment in my garage. I have a fridge (that was given to me) that's in my garage that has incandescent bulbs for heat and a temperature controller* so I can ferment at a specific temperature, then if I want to bulk age, I'll move ales to my basement or lagers to my beer fridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008KVCPH2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;STC-1000&lt;/a&gt;. There are several different models, so you want to make sure you get the model with 2 controllers, one for heat and one for cooling. You can connect the power from the fridge to the one for cooling and either use light bulbs or a small heater inside the fridge connected to the heat power. Mine does Celsius, but I imagine that's what you'd want anyway. My fermentation setup cost me about $20, but I didn't pay for the fridge, and used a light fixture I had laying around from one I replaced. You can also get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/thermostar-dual-mode-digital-temperature-controller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Johnson controller&lt;/a&gt; if you don't want to mess with the DIY wiring, and don't mind spending a bit more money. UPDATE: There's a cheaper option if you don't want wire up an outlet box with an STC-1000, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B011296704&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;inkbird&lt;/a&gt;. It's less than half price of the Johnson controller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could bulk age in the fridge as well, but so you don't hold up your pipeline, it would be best if you can move it to a closet (for ales) and you might be able to leave your lagers in the garage, maybe close to an inner wall as you don't want them to freeze, or maybe skip on lagering unless you get a second fermentation chamber you can leave at lager temps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2017-06-08T19:51:57.620" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T19:51:57.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16496" CreationDate="2015-11-15T04:21:19.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though I concur with Wyrmwood's answer, I am assuming you are talking about fermentation more than mashing and boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would emphasize that it's important to have a stable fermentation temperature. That temperature can be low for some styles, but should typically be fairly stable and always above freezing, and preferably within the range suggested by the manufacturer for the yeast strain. I would follow package instructions on the yeast you get and find a way to stabilize temperature accordingly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preferably there would be enough ambient heat in your garage to stay in a tolerable temperature range. On the other hand, even if there is not, 20 liters of liquid is not going to change its temperature as quickly as a glass of water, much less the atmosphere around it, so you have some leeway. If the temperature shifts 5°C overnight, it probably won't kill your batch.  Though, preferably, that shift would still be within the temperature range tolerated by the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would say, take some temperature measurements and, if they don't work, consider investing in temperature controlling equipment if you have a garage with freezing temperatures and/or wild temperature shifts.  Another thing is, if you have to compromise a style a little by picking a yeast that fits your environmental conditions, it is almost certainly not going to have a meaningful negative impact on the outcome unless you are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; picky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastEditorUserId="12745" LastEditDate="2015-11-15T19:34:27.083" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T19:34:27.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16495" CreationDate="2015-11-15T13:38:41.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on many factors, so let me summarize what you need to ask yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will I make secondary fermentation in another fermentation bucket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, you need a set with two buckets or bucket and barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will I need a priming bucket or will I pour sugar directly to bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If priming bucket, then gain you need two. If you answered no to 1. and 2., you only need one bucket - but having two won't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will I do full-grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, you need big steel pot, either as a part of set, or something you will buy separately. Or you need a set with electric pot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will I cap my bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you will, choose set with crown corker. Don't go for plastic bottles unless you really, really cannot avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do I have a good disinfectant handy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, choose set with something included, it's bad to get stuck with fresh wort and nothing clean enough to pour it into.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do I have specific first beer in mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, chose either set with ingredients for that style, or one without any. Paying for something you do not plan to use is a pure waste.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all boils down to one question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do &lt;strong&gt;I&lt;/strong&gt; really &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to brew, and which set contains the most of it, and least of other stuff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-11-15T23:11:18.137" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T23:11:18.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16496" CreationDate="2015-11-16T02:15:32.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You should be able to do it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your garage gets below 18°C, the fermentation will have an hard time starting. Check the yeast package for the temperature range, generally between 18°C and 22°C for an English Ale...  So if heating the garage is not an option, you can buy a heating belt to heat a carboy or fermentation bucket.  Check with your local HBS for something like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00TP9MLFE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homebrew Fermentation Heater&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then at bottling, you will have the same problem if you bottle condition.  But you can store the bottles inside the house for about a week, and then when the fermentation is done, you can move them back to your garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T02:15:32.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16495" CreationDate="2015-11-16T03:59:05.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just about any kit will enable you to brew, but many kits aren't really designed with current brewing methods in mind. Most come with a &quot;secondary&quot; container which is really only useful for a pipeline (so you can have more than one beer fermenting at a time). &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7229/what-is-the-secondary-fermentation-debate&quot;&gt;[For further reading on the debate]&lt;/a&gt; You're better off to just have more than one primary fermenting vessel, and just simply swap vessels with each brew, rather than actually transferring each beer from the first to the &quot;secondary&quot; as it doubles your risk and cleanup. Also, most kits come with a smaller secondary, so you can't use it to primary, at least not effectively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The questions you need to answer are, extract versus all grain, full boil or partial boil, and keg or bottle. It isn't unusual for brewers to start with extract, partial boil and bottles, and then switch to all grain, full boil and kegging, but not necessarily in any particular order. Extract, partial boil and bottling requires the least equipment. With extract, you don't need a mash tun, with partial boil, you only need a 4-5 gallon kettle and can often brew on a stove top and for bottling, all you need is a capper and some empty bottles. Full boil requires a larger (7-10 gallon) kettle, and usually a floor propane burner or an electric boil setup. All grain also can't be done partial boil, so all grain requires both a mash tun and a full boil setup. Kegging versus bottling can be done with any setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest setup would be a 4-5 gallon kettle, at least two 7+ gallon buckets and at least one lid drilled for an airlock and a capper. You'll want to transfer the beer off the trub into the second bucket before bottling, so you don't mix your trub and priming sugar. With an extract kit, you can boil 1/2 the extract with the runoff from the steeping grains and ~2.5 gallons of water, then add the remaining extract and top up with water at flameout. To add to your pipeline, just add another bucket and airlock lid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T17:13:48.423" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16503" CreationDate="2015-11-16T07:07:41.853" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my first proper brew today and was wondering about the colour. It did not have the colour I thought it would have. I used 4 cups of pale malt, one cup of Halcyon, one cup of Maris Otter and also one cup of Amber Malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I ended up with had a brownish complexity that I did not entirely expect. Is this the colour / clarity these malts give or am I doing something incorrectly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ZNBV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;my beer &quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="12900" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T11:23:10.263" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T13:56:41.980" Title="Issues with the colour / clarity of my brew" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16502" CreationDate="2015-11-16T11:32:04.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as my intuition goes, the color is just as I would expect. Might be a bit more red, but within my expectations all right. You used not-so-pale pale malts, and a bit of amber, so you couldn't have brown nor yellow. And addition of floor-malted malt might have caused more brownish and less reddish tint to your wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarity, it's also not unexpected. Wort clarity depends on filtration. Post boil clarity on hot and cold break, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wort was usually similarly hazy preboil. Both extract and full grain. Only recently I learnt how to filter it better. But it always settled down anyway after fermentation. How much - depends on many parameters. But wort this opaque was able to give me crystal clear beer at the end more than once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T13:56:41.980" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T13:56:41.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16495" CreationDate="2015-11-16T19:01:28.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following your links it seems that the kits seem to cost 60 to 70 pounds which does seem like a lot. Whether you think that is worth it will depend on your personality. Let's just give a brief overview of what you need and then you can decide for yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ingredients &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;hops&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main bittering agent. You can buy old world hops like Saaz but they seem to be twice as expensive as the less high brow alternative and I doubt you will taste the difference. I Usually just buy what the beer supply shop has on special. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;grain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are following a recipe then buy the grains as need be. If you are going to explore your own taste then buy one kg of some grains that sound good to you and start to experiment. You only have to satisfy your own taste buds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just one thing you should be sure is to use a primary grain that has suitable diastatic power that is to say enough sugars will be expelled from the grain during the boil  as to give the yeast something to convert into gas and alcohol. Do some research or contact your local supplier and see what they recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here again you can go deep and try liquid yeast but as what is the case with expensive hops you really have to have an immensely refined taste for it really to matter. One thing that does matter is to make sure you buy brewers yeast and not bakers yeast. Bakers yeast is much more potent but is also much less tolerant to alcohol which makes your brew much more likely to flop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;water&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet again here you can go deep and try purified or mineral water but as a general rule of thumb if you can drink your tap water you can make beer with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Equipment **&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stock pot&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any 10 liter stainless steel pot will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually glass but any non plastic bottle that shuts tight can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grains bag&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer shops should sell this but any cheese cloth or muslin bag will also do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hop bag&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like keeping grains and hops in separate bags during the boil because then I can use the grains for bread making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also things like an auto siphon. Something that is used to get the&lt;br&gt;&#xA;fermented wort from the fermentation vessel to the bottles without any chance of aerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use one I guess but I have poured my wort into the bottles post fermentation and have yet to see any real negative effects on the end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also things like a grommet and a airlock. This is used in your fermentation vessel to let the gas escape but not let any air in. This is good practice to use but there is other alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of buying an airlock you can use a grommet in the lid of your fermentation vessel and also some food grade plastic tubing that goes from the vessel into a container of water. This is also a good way to let the gas out and not let any air in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="12900" LastEditDate="2015-11-17T05:33:10.343" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T05:33:10.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10077" CreationDate="2015-11-16T21:49:38.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just went and worked on this the past weekend (11/14/2015).  This allows me to run the output from my corny keg through my standard kegerator.  The thread you need for the &quot;beer end&quot; is a 7/8-14, which is also know as 5/8&quot;bsp.  Ask the hardware store for this and they will look at you very strange....It ends up being the thread for a flare fitting (i think it is actually 3/4&quot;, but i took the female fitting in and verified.  You will then need to cut off the protrusion that makes it flare and grind flat so you can add washer.  I have not finshed yet and can send photos, but this was the closest and cheapest i could come up with (All in less than $10).  I then converted brass 3/4f lare to 1/2 brass pipe, and then brass pipe to 3/3&quot; hose fitting.  text me at 262-424-7600 for photos.  ANDY&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12937" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T21:49:38.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16495" CreationDate="2015-11-16T22:19:23.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The choice really depends on how much you want to invest and what process you want to use.  It is easier for a beginner to start with extract kits, so I will base my answer on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year, I have bought the &lt;strong&gt;Coopers DIY Beer Kit&lt;/strong&gt; that is listed on both websites you linked (about 65 Pounds).  Here is what I think of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The primary fermenter has a spigot, wich is great because it can later be used as a bottling bucket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bottling wand I got was leaking a lot, I could not really use it (fortunately I had another one).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The plastic bottles are great (740ml), I have been reusing them for about a year now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rest of the equipment is ok (hydrometer, thermometer, spoon and beer extract itself).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason I bought this Kit was because it was on sale on &lt;em&gt;amazon&lt;/em&gt; and that I needed additional bottles and a bottling bucket (I already had all the equipment).  I do not consider it to be of excellent quality, but it's ok to start because you have everything you need to make a first batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;HomebrewShop Beer Starter Kit With Barrel&lt;/strong&gt;, seems ok, but I have never used a pressure barrel so I can't really recommand it or not...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would stay away of the &lt;strong&gt;Mr Beer 8L Starter Kit&lt;/strong&gt;, because you will definitely want to bew more than 8L at the time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to &lt;strong&gt;purchase everything separately&lt;/strong&gt;, if you can find good prices try to find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 32L primary fermenting bucket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 20L or 23L glass carboy (optional but useful)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An hydrometer with the test jar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A thermometer (perhaps a floating one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A racking cane with plastic tubing (or an autosiphon)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PET plastic bottles with twist caps (or glass bottles and a capper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bottling wand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A long plastic spoon or paddle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A good no-rinse cleaner/sanitizer (I use aseptox powder, much cheaper than starsan)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A first extract kit, yeast and dextrose (or any other priming sugar) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find all this for less money than a pre-built kit, you will be ok to brew you first batch.  Of course, brewers never stop expanding their equipment, it's our curse ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T22:19:23.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-16T22:20:30.253" Score="2" ViewCount="975" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first cider has just gotten to 1.000 gravity on my hydrometer, and i plan on bottling it tomorrow, but i have just done a test to see how it looks, and even in a narrow container, it is pretty opaque, like i had poured red wax into the container...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kit i used did not come with finings and claims not to need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should i use them/do i need them, to clear up the brew and make it more transparent and more &quot;cider like&quot;, or will it be ok as it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found an image on wikipedia that displays what i am getting (i have what is on the left, i was hoping of what is on the right): &lt;a href=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/60/Cider_and_apple_juice.jpg/400px-Cider_and_apple_juice.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/60/Cider_and_apple_juice.jpg/400px-Cider_and_apple_juice.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12922" LastEditorUserId="12922" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T23:44:46.033" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T23:23:36.747" Title="Cider is opaque" Tags="|cider|finings|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="88" CreationDate="2015-11-16T22:21:50.053" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some widely respected people advise against it, like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Racking to prevent autolysis is not necessary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst it might be true, in some cases, it is not true in case of strong stuff, stuff that will stay in fermenter long time. See wine resources - for yeast wine with nutrient is not so different than wort. And even if this particular part, this one reason is true - racking may be performed to prevent other undesired tastes, including ones that came from badly filtered wort, from leftover hops etc. I think we may safely assume that experienced and knowledgeable people hardly ever &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; such problems anymore, so for &lt;em&gt;them&lt;/em&gt; it doesn't matter. At the same time if you still wonder, you might be far from that state. Or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Try&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brew something simple. Like APA, or other balanced beer. And do it twice, with and without. It is not expensive nor especially time consuming, but it'll let &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; know what works better with &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; workshop and your skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did this, and I tested it on my friends and myself. Racking to secondary created beer that was received better, and was ready to drink faster. Does it mean I can't filter properly? Maybe. I know I can't, or at least couldn't until my last batch! Or maybe I have some other issue? Who knows. But when it comes to beer, &lt;strong&gt;no amount of respectability will ever win with taste-buds of my friends&lt;/strong&gt;, and that's approach I strongly advise to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other aspect worth mentioning is tradition.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to brew &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.camra.org.uk/about-real-ale&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;real ale&lt;/a&gt;, you simply have no option other than to rack. Of course you probably will not rack to actual cask, but cask had inside covered with substance that prevented beer from acquiring wood taste. But historically, English ales was racked, and kept that way for period of time similar to our &quot;secondary&quot;. And it was famous. Of course there are ways far faster than traditional ones, but that's not why we do it, is it? I'd say it's quite the opposite...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Yeast reuse may be a reason, too&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you add Gelatin or other clearing agents to primary, your yeast are pretty much wasted. Can't use them to next beer, because you will harm their ability to stay in suspension. And even if you won't, leaving yeast too long in beer that's almost finished may make them dormant. Or dead. So if you are brewing chain of beers to prepare good slurry for barleywine, racking will be the way to go for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T22:28:31.820" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T22:28:31.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-16T22:30:06.663" Score="3" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;The O.G. was 13 Brix (1.053), and the F.G. was 8 Brix (1.031).  According to the calculation, the beer is only approximately 3% ABV.  But I tried a glass and it's gotta be closer to 5.5%.  20% of the grain bill was Crystal Malt 10L.  Due to the residual unfermentable sugars from the crystal malt, is it possible that the alcohol content is actually much higher than my calculation suggests?  If so, is there a more accurate way to calculate ABV?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12938" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T18:55:35.133" Title="Strong beer at 3%?" Tags="|malt|alcohol-content|crystal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16507" CreationDate="2015-11-16T22:31:16.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you want out of your cider?  Do you want to show it off or enter it in competition, or is it more for your own enjoyment?  Depending upon what is causing the cloudiness, in most cases it doesn't affect flavor.  There are a number of options for you if you want to go for that brilliant clarity, but if you just want something tasty to drink, I don't consider it worth the extra effort.  Again, it does depend upon what is causing the cloudiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T22:31:16.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16507" CreationDate="2015-11-16T22:51:55.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time will help to clear it a bit, let it rest and rack it again later.  I find that most of the fining agents also strip off some of the flavor (specially in red wines), so I no longer use them, and same thing for filtration.  I might be a bit paranoid but I find my wines are much better since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your goal is to have a clear cider, you may use the fining agent, no problem.  But if it tastes good, it is also ok as it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T22:51:55.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16509" CreationDate="2015-11-16T22:53:15.593" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;How are you measuring gravity?  I would double-check your gravity readings.  If you are using a refractometer, you'll need to &lt;a href=&quot;http://seanterrill.com/2012/01/06/refractometer-calculator/&quot;&gt;correct your reading&lt;/a&gt; because they are not meant to be used after fermentation begins (because of the presence of alcohol).  If you're using a hydrometer, you need to de-gas your fermented sample enough to ensure that your hydrometer isn't being raised up due to the carbonation (I use a graduated cylinder as my hydrometer container, so I agitate my sample by putting my thumb over the top and shaking, and/or agitating the sample by moving my hydrometer up and down like a butter churn.  Also, did you temperature-correct your readings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're pretty confident in your gravity readings, how does it taste?  From something that started and ended where yours did, I would expect it to taste pretty sweet and cloying.  The calculation itself is pretty straight-forward and assumes that the difference in gravity is all due to sugar being converted to ethanol, so assuming your measurements are correct, I'm not sure how it could be that far off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T22:53:15.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16520" CreationDate="2015-11-17T12:57:33.510" Score="2" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;I occasionally use a juicer to make Ginger root juice (which is quite strong) but lately I've also considered lacto-fermenting this juice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which leads me to my question:&lt;br /&gt;How fermentable is juiced Ginger really?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of how &lt;em&gt;ginger bug&lt;/em&gt; is sometimes used to kick start ferments but juiced Ginger is something else entirely. Also, I've read quite a bit about Ginger's antiseptic and antibacterial properties. Wouldn't those same properties render a starter culture useless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12410" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T18:56:02.587" Title="Is juiced Ginger root fermentable?" Tags="|fermentation|techniques|ginger|bacteria|lactobacillus|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16513" CreationDate="2015-11-17T15:12:35.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you dilute it to wine like levels of flavor, it will ferment, but the pure juice? It may ferment, but probably not with yeasts that produce an expected results. It would probably result in something we'd consider spoiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T15:12:35.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16523" CreationDate="2015-11-17T15:13:31.160" Score="3" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to bottle my first cider, and i have a 500g bag of priming sugar, from what i have read, i can either prime each bottle, or i can pour the sugar into the brewing vessel and stir it in if i am immediately bottling after adding the sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an advantage/disadvantage to either method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: i cannot use a 2nd vessel as i have only just started and do not have a 2nd vessel yet)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12922" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T11:50:03.543" Title="How to use priming sugar" Tags="|bottling|cider|priming|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16507" CreationDate="2015-11-17T15:15:44.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apple wine always needs fining and/or filtration. It never clears (not in my experience anyway) on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you drink the apple soon, the opacity is just an appearance issue. If you plan on longer term storage, then you really want to clarify it before bottling or the wine can produce off flavors or even go bad in extreme cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T15:15:44.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16513" CreationDate="2015-11-17T16:41:29.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made ginger beer from regular old yeast before so there is nothing inherent about ginger that makes it unsuitable for yeast fermentation. Yeast technically speaking is a fungus not bacteria so how things that have anti bacterial qualities interact with fungi I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T16:41:29.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16509" CreationDate="2015-11-17T18:53:43.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.053 to 1.031 is only 41% apparent attenuation. I can't imagine that 20% crystal malt would produce enough unfermentable sugars for such low attenuation. Another source of unfermentatable sugars is a high mash temperature. Again, it would be difficult to get such a low attenuation from mash temperature number even if you were trying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think one of two things is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your yeast failed to ferment all the available sugars. To remedy this, pitch a new dose of fresh yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your final gravity reading was incorrect. As mentioned in other answers, using a refractometer and failing to adjust for the presence of ethanol is one possibility. Another is dissolved CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in the sample influencing the gravity reading. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T18:53:43.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16513" CreationDate="2015-11-17T18:56:02.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ginger juice alone does not have enough sugar to be fermentable. However, ginger beer is a popular, slightly alcoholic beverage made from ginger root, sugar, water and citric acid. Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2805/ginger-beer-recipe&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question and answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T18:56:02.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16516" CreationDate="2015-11-17T19:01:23.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process used by many home brewers is roughly this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil the priming sugar with enough water to make a syrup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool the sugar solution and transfer to a clean, sterilized bucket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer the finished beer to the bucket, mixing with the sugar syrup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stir &lt;strong&gt;gently&lt;/strong&gt; so the sugar is evenly distributed. Be careful not to splash as this will introduce oxygen and accelerate staling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill and cap the bottles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Priming the bottles individually is tedious, and no matter how careful you are with measuring, it's impossible to get a consistent level of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in each bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T19:01:23.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12755" CreationDate="2015-11-17T19:20:32.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An unorthodox (by today's standards) way to deal with it is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/TheFootmansDirectoryAndButlers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;really old school way&lt;/a&gt; of using mustard seed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When beer turns ropy without being sour, it is &#xA;  easily restored by mixing in the proportion of one &#xA;  spoonful of mustard to every fourteen gallons, in a &#xA;  little of the beer, and pouring it into the bung-hole. &#xA;  In the course of the next day the beer will be fit for &#xA;  use. When it is actually sour it may be restored by &#xA;  hanging a linen bag in the cask, with equal quantities of &#xA;  pounded chalk and calcined oyster-shells. This will &#xA;  cure it in the space of a day and a night, but it will not &#xA;  keep very long after these additions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that interesting what it says to do when it does go sour.  It sounds like they added alkalinity to counter the acidity.  I wonder if the reason it doesn't keep long is that you've raised the pH and it is now a more hospitable environment for spoiling organisms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reference I found says half a pound of mustard seed to a hogshead (which is somewhere around 50 gallons), so 1.6 oz per 5 gallon batch, and it will be good to go in a week or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though unlikely, if one were to try this route, I wouldn't use ground mustard seed for fear of adding too much flavor.  Everything I've seen in a number of 19th century brewing books says either whole seed or &quot;lightly bruised&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastEditorUserId="12926" LastEditDate="2015-11-17T19:41:22.243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T19:41:22.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16516" CreationDate="2015-11-17T22:09:37.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based upon what you said, namely that you only have the one container and it is currently filled with your cider, here are what I see for the pros/cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding it directly to the bucket will give you a consistent carbonation because, as has been mentioned, you can make sure it is uniformly mixed.  The downside to this is that you'll stir up the junk that is at the bottom of the bucket too, which you can end up putting into your bottles.  If you go this route, I would gently stir the sugar solution in, then I would let it sit for an hour or two before bottling to let the sediment fall back to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding sugar directly to the bottle is perfectly fine, but it is pretty tedious.  If you go this route, use a scale if you have one to be consistent in how much you put in each bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option that you might have available is if you have a big pot, you can bottle in batches.  If your pot holds a gallon and you have five gallons of cider, then split up your sugar in five portions and do it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the first time you've ever bottled, make sure you are confident that your cider is done fermenting.  An early mistake is to rush your product into the bottle and find that it keeps fermenting in the bottle and you end up with bottle grenades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T22:09:37.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-18T02:46:59.770" Score="1" ViewCount="1034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just created a pomagranate mead and now it is separating it's self...&#xA;Ingredients:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;49 oz pomagranate Puree&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 lbs Clover Honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 tsp Acid Blend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 tsp Yeast Nutrient&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 tsp Pectic Enzyme&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 tsp Grape Tannin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 tablets Campden Tablets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 grams Cote de Blanc Wine Yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do? I tried mixing the solution by shaking it... It come together but about an hour later separates into two again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't any airlock action either...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12899" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-11-20T07:19:25.710" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T22:08:33.850" Title="Mead keeps separating... HELP!" Tags="|fermentation|mead|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16524" CreationDate="2015-11-18T11:47:15.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leave it be. Don't worry. Wait 3 days and then see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed in comments, there might be a lot of sulphur in it. Agitating it may help release it, and shouldn't hurt. Either way, don't repitch for few days, both to give it time to release, and to give original yeast time to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things like what you did will separate, there is hardly anything you could do to avoid it. And nothing you really should. At the end, you want all the taste in solution, but all the solids settled down. And you indeed are on the good way to achieve this. If yeast are at te bottom now, then once they'll start, their own gas production will move them up (with some of material).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-11-18T19:57:15.900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T19:57:15.900" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16516" CreationDate="2015-11-18T11:50:03.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Especially for cases like yours, there is this device:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDbL3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDbL3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each &quot;cup&quot; is scaled to hold pre-set weight of table sugar, so you do not need to use scales yourself, and you can get pretty good consistency with sugar added directly to bottles. And it makes this task pretty fast, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2, 4 and 6g is usually pretty good for medium carbonation in 0.33, 0.5 and 0.75 liter bottles. Or to get low, medium or high carbonation in most common 0.5l bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T11:50:03.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16528" CreationDate="2015-11-18T13:08:29.603" Score="2" ViewCount="1157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to brew the coconut porter as listed in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;amp;t=53901#p567509&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;this thread&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;, which is bubbling away nicely at the moment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;after fermentation, rack off into PB or somesuch. &#xA;  Then toast 700g dessicated coconut in oven for 40min at 150C or until just turning brown - do not burn!! Add 100g of untoasted coconut to the PB with the 700g of toasted coconut - loose.&#xA;  Leave for 10-14 days, giving a shake around every now and then as the coconut floats to the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my fermentation is complete (I  usually leave my brew for 3 weeks,  no secondary) would racking it out onto the coconut, into a lidded bucket with no airlock, be suitable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only got one fermentation vessel with airlock available, so I was planning on using my bottling bucket for secondary. It's just got a tight fitting lid with no hole for airlock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively I can rack off into bucket, clean the fermentation vessel, then put the beer back in there with the coconut? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12945" LastEditorUserId="12173" LastEditDate="2015-11-20T12:28:52.143" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T14:18:31.160" Title="Adding coconut after fermentation" Tags="|beer|secondary|porter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16527" CreationDate="2015-11-18T13:24:22.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like a good plan. I conduct secondary with low fermentable addition in closed lid buckets without problems. These lids are not perfectly airtight, and this imperfection is enough to let CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; out. Preferably use oldest (least tight) lid you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternative is possible, too, but it doubles the chance of contamination, and will double oxidation. I would avoid it - unless you expect vigorous fermentation after coconut addition. But I wouldn't do it. I'd rather unsnap lid a little to let excess CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; out, but still use no-airlock vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-11-18T13:26:50.293" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T13:26:50.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12505" CreationDate="2015-11-18T14:16:51.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best description I was able to find is &lt;a href=&quot;http://brooklynbrewshop.com/directions/Brooklyn_Brew_Shop_Canadian_Red_Ale_Instructions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF on shop's page&lt;/a&gt;. Recipe is probably copyrighted, but here is excerpt that should be good enough to start (in case PDF is no longer accessible):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recipe is for t 5 quarts (4.75 liters) of wort. In homebrew, we usually brew four to five times this amount, so just multiply everything by 4. Or 5.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recommended mash is at 63-68°C - this means dry to semi-dry result. You know what you did, so do the same.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's single hop cascade, with additions:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40% for 60 minutes (at start) - bittering addition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20% for 20 minutes (after 40 minutes of boil) - taste addition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20% for 5 minutes (after 55 minutes) - aroma addition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermentation at 70°F (21°C). Typical for ales.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Honey as priming sugar - &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/16154/12577&quot;&gt;waste of perfectly good honey as far as I know&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what's not told is grain bill and yeast. My &lt;strong&gt;guess&lt;/strong&gt; is that we are talking about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style10.php#1b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Amber / Red Ale&lt;/a&gt;. Let's take a look on BJCP guidelines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flavor&lt;/strong&gt;: Moderate to high hop flavor from American hop varieties, which often but not always has a citrusy quality. Malt flavors are moderate to strong, and usually show an initial malty sweetness followed by a moderate caramel flavor (and sometimes other character malts in lesser amounts). Malt and hop bitterness are usually balanced and mutually supportive. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ingredients&lt;/strong&gt;: Pale ale malt, typically American two-row. Medium to dark crystal malts. May also contain specialty grains which add additional character and uniqueness. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the way I would go about it, would be to aim at balance between bitterness and malt character. Software like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtarget.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BrewTarget&lt;/a&gt; shows you this in a very readable form. Use pale malt and some caramel/crystal malt to achieve red colour. Aim for 5% ABV. And then just try. This &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;character and uniqueness&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; you probably liked is something nobody can help you with, as it's not a widely known beer, sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted by &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/users/3950/chino-brews&quot;&gt;Chino Brews&lt;/a&gt;, there might be addition of roasted barley to make it more red. 7% would give you black beer, so go for 1 to 3%. Black patent malt is another way to get there with colour. But they taste differently. If possible, try tasting both, both directly and water after an hour of extraction, and use the one that gives tastes and aromas you want in your beer. If your beer wasn't anything like either of them, then maybe it was really dark crystal instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T20:04:50.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16331" CreationDate="2015-11-18T14:54:48.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beerclings.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.BeerClings.com&lt;/a&gt;.  Again, not a label machine but the labels work awesome.  I prefer them to grogtag, they last longer.  Sounds like they deal in quite a bit of volume.  If they are asking for the bottles back at all, this would be a great option as they could slap the labels on the next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12947" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T14:54:48.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16524" CreationDate="2015-11-18T14:58:42.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once fermentation starts, convection currents will ensure that the puree and water are well mixed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was probably no need for Campden, since all the ingredients were sterile. As it stands, you've got around 300ppm of sulphur in the must, which will likely impede fermentation. Leave it under an airlock for three or four days. If fermentation has not started, add a 15g more yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T14:58:42.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-19T03:58:01.997" Score="2" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the other day I created a mead and messed up... long story short I killed all my yeast by rushing. I added the dead yeast into my mead and it all sank to the bottom. I just racked off the dead yeast and now I'm trying to decide weather to re start my mead or just add new yeast. My only concern is my mead has a destinct smell of yeast. Well this smell go away or is there a way to remove it. I'm planning on only fermenting this mead for 3 months&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12899" LastActivityDate="2023-06-14T19:42:37.223" Title="Mead Problem with Yeast" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16533" CreationDate="2015-11-19T10:05:01.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;fresh yeast should get rid of most of yeast smell. And even if they don't, a package of yeast is far cheaper than ingredients for new batch of mead. So by all means, do re-pitch. At worst, you will just waste $3 worth of yeast. At best, you will save much more in ingredients. And chance of success is pretty big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T10:05:01.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16536" CreationDate="2015-11-19T19:21:25.070" Score="5" ViewCount="1682" Body="&lt;p&gt;With all the talk about how important it is to sanitize your equipment when brewing, is it acceptable to use a UV sanitizer light on a finished product just to make sure there is no harmful bacteria left in the bottle/brew? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12952" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T17:34:38.063" Title="Is it acceptable to use a UV sanitizer light on a finished product?" Tags="|techniques|sanitation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16535" CreationDate="2015-11-19T19:26:23.800" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's a good idea, but might depend on product. You know why brown bottles are more popular than green or clear? Because light creates bad flavor and aroma in most beers. In my country it's known as skunks aroma. Strong &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.khymos.org/2007/02/16/lightstruck-flavor-in-beer/&quot;&gt;UV lamp will do the same&lt;/a&gt;, only much faster. As far as I know, wine doesn't like light either. But I believe there might be some brew that would survive without harm. I just can't recall any. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sun gives about 0.01 to 1 watt of UV energy per square meter*. UV lamps give between 8 and 20 watt / square meter. Some possibly even more. It only takes two hours to distinctly skunk your beer under direct sunlight. So skunking due to lamp use will happen even faster. This relation is not linear, so it would be up to you to test how much bad flavors lamp would introduce, but I feel convinced amounts will be significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also another problem. You would either need to pump your beet thorough special installation, risking contamination at later bottling and thus preventing any benefit, or you would try to pump UVB and UVC thorough bottle glass. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19614895&quot;&gt;Glass tends to be opaque to UVB&lt;/a&gt;, and probably to UVC*, and it's UVB and UVC that's used for sterilization. So what you would probably sterilize that way is outside of your bottles only. And that's even when we didn't count bottle manufacturers' effort to mitigate skunking. By the way, skunking is also caused by UVA, that's why even brown bottles does not prevent it completely. Sadly, UVA hardly has anything to do with mass killing of bacteria. Even more sadly, most UV lamps gives you &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; from all three kinds, so ineffective sterilization may still be effective skunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* I'll be grateful for hard reference on these points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T23:12:32.137" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T23:12:32.137" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16543" CreationDate="2015-11-20T02:45:20.473" Score="0" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I wanted to make a hooch out of &quot;cranberry juice cocktail&quot;, which is composed of &quot;water, cranberry juice, high fructose corn syrup, cranberry juice concentrate, and ascorbic acid, how would I go about that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would bakers yeast be able to metabolize this High fructose corn syrup? Would the metabolism of it produce anything undesirable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if hooch questions are not allowed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12336" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T16:34:17.160" Title="Can this juice ferment without added sugar?" Tags="|yeast|sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16539" CreationDate="2015-11-20T11:41:21.540" Score="5" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my first batch, an English IPA (Maris Otter, East Kent Goldings, WLP023 Burton Ale Yeast) about a month ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottled on the 4th November, priming with dextrose monohydrate brewing sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All went to plan (or so I thought) but the beer has a distinct chlorine flavour (although the underlying beer flavour is OK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sterilised the bottles with Young's Brew Steriliser and Cleaner and for some stupid reason, didn't read the instructions regards rinsing thoroughly (everything I'd read up to this point had involved &quot;StarSan&quot; so I naively presumed rinsing was not required).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what flavour/s to associate with green beer (I've read many times not to dump a beer so early) so I could do with some reassurance that my suspicions are correct, and to put this down to experience and move on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does &quot;green beer&quot; taste like chlorine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spoke to supplier, the chap insisted Young's Sterliser/Cleaner is bleach/chlorine based, and it is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; just Sodium Metabisulphite (although it may well be an ingredient) so rinse well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch dumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12823" LastEditorUserId="12823" LastEditDate="2015-11-21T14:27:34.680" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T14:27:34.680" Title="First batch, to dump or not to dump" Tags="|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16538" CreationDate="2015-11-20T12:22:12.217" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry, beer that tastes like chlorine doesn't get better. Been there, dumped that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green beer flavors tend to be excessive amounts of the expected flavors (sweet, bitter, hop aroma, yeastyness) and sometimes cidery flavors (from oxygen exposure leading to acetaldehyde). These will reduce / go away with some aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T12:22:12.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16537" CreationDate="2015-11-20T12:38:47.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The listed ingredients are fermentable. As long as there are no preservatives, and the pH isn't crazy low, it will work. Baker's yeast might not give you the best flavor, but I guess you're going to work with what you've got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T12:38:47.140" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16538" CreationDate="2015-11-20T13:02:27.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;'Green beer' doesn't normally taste like chlorine, but everyone's palate is different. The most common source of chlorine is the brewing water.  Its possible you can't taste the chlorine in your water if you drink it regularly as tap water.  When the chlorine combines with phenols in the malt it can begin to peak over the threshold of flavor detectability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good thing about chlorine is if you fill a bucket with all your brewing water first the night before it will dissipate naturally.  If its chloramine (more stable version) you'll need to either boil the water or use Campden tablets to get rid of it.  That's a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know you don't have chlorine in your water supply, then perhaps it is just a green beer flavor; and chlorine is just what it tastes like to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd keep the batch but start your next batch.  Hopefully, the current batch will age out some and become tolerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T13:02:27.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16538" CreationDate="2015-11-20T14:55:39.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dump it. I can't find information about the active ingredients in Young's Sterilizer and Cleaner, but if it requires rinsing it's very likely a bromine or chlorine based cleaner. Bromine and chlorine are both poisonous in high concentrations, so you should not consume the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T14:55:39.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16537" CreationDate="2015-11-20T16:34:17.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure you can. I think Terry Gerry's book (or another, sorry) talks about how cranberry juice and apple cider are often people's first foray into brewing something. It's recommended that you agitate the beeguz out of cranberry juice or cocktail before you pitch yeast (I would use champagne yeast due to its resilience), and give it a shake whenever you pass by it to help the yeast overcome the preservatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T16:34:17.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-21T13:34:08.073" Score="4" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making Ginger Beer using Ginger Beer Plant, should I use lemon or not? Some guides just have a step where they add lemon (into the same container as the GBP). Then again there are statements like &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Many times it can be irritating&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yemoos.com/gingerbeerguide.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.yemoos.com/gingerbeerguide.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does lemon &lt;strong&gt;harm or benefit&lt;/strong&gt; the plant? Could it be that a small amount of lemon is beneficial while a larger amount can be damaging? Does it make a difference whether I use just the juice, or lemon slices, with or without skin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12958" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T21:40:37.573" Title="Ginger Beer Plant and lemon in one container or not?" Tags="|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-21T22:30:21.740" Score="2" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a ten tidy clone using the 1st runnings method.  Which left me with 3 gallons after boil.  I transferred from the primary to secondary and I am currently ready to add the bourbon soaked oak cubes (american medium plus toast), which was a ratio of 12 oz bourbon to 2 oz of cubes.  My question is how long do you recommend soaking the bourbon oak cubes in the secondary before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12960" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T05:36:01.520" Title="Bourbon soaked oak cubes" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16546" CreationDate="2015-11-21T22:53:14.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the bourbon flavor, the effect is rapid. However, for the wood, you'll want to keep that in for a few weeks. However, bourbon will likely mask much of the oak that you will extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T22:53:14.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-22T05:34:29.440" Score="3" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;A search here for &quot;quince&quot; returned zero results, but that doesn't mean people haven't (or aren't) fermenting quince juice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm fermenting a half gallon of quince as a substitute for real tannic cider apples in a British Cider recipe I'm brewing. The rest of the juice is from a few varieties of eating apples. Since this is sort of a test, I'm fermenting the quince separately from my three gallons of apples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a direct replacement for a bittersharp cider apple, I can use it to bitter up half the batch, and use tannic blend for the other half. The unfermented quince juice is awesomely tannic, with that black tea skritch way back on the tongue. I don't have any experience of juiced bitter cider apples, so I don't know if the quince is more or less tannic than a classic tannic cider apple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recipe is 40% sweet, 30% acidic, 30% bitter apples. My apple juice tastes like it's at the 40/30 ratio for sweet/acid, but I don't know if the quince juice will overpower the balance, or if cider apples are as tannic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12962" LastEditorUserId="12962" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T06:25:07.493" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T15:12:10.837" Title="Can I use quince as a direct replacement for bitter cider apples?" Tags="|cider|bittering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-22T08:40:21.507" Score="1" ViewCount="885" Body="&lt;p&gt;my partner shook my fermenting cider while I was at work will this affect it it was about day three. smelled sweet not like vinegar when I bottled it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12963" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T11:57:25.647" Title="shaken cider during fermentation process" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16549" CreationDate="2015-11-22T11:57:25.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shaking brings yeast back into suspension. It has negative effects on clarity of finished brew, but on the other hand it helps yeast to ferment all available sugars. Most important in strong beers. In weaker brews, ones at 6% ABV or less, both effects are pretty negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as water from your airlock didn't make it to your cider, it should be all right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T11:57:25.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16551" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-22T14:46:27.963" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making my first beer and during my last temp check I dropped the thermometer into my wort bucket, instinctively i immediately reached in and pulled it out.  My hands were cleaned and sanitized and my arm was clean but had not been sanitized. I pitched my yeast and it appears to be fermenting. Did i ruin my batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12964" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T16:10:45.267" Title="Wort Contamination?" Tags="|wort|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16551" CreationDate="2015-11-22T16:10:45.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your beer will probably be fine.  Yes, your arm probably left some bacteria in the wort, but the wort is also picking up a few bacteria from the air.  Cooled wort has some bacteria and/or wild yeast.  But if those numbers are few compared to the number of yeast cells, then the yeast will start eating, creating an environment less friendly to bacteria.  The happier you make your yeast, the better chance the yeast will win.  I hope you shook the wort for at least one minute to introduce oxygen, since that is one way to make sure your have plenty of happy yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T16:10:45.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15112" CreationDate="2015-11-22T22:30:58.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) You can just add it to the warm water.  It may already be 'preboiled' and OK for that purpose.  Some types of 'beer' are not boiled.  You may get a hazy brew, but it'll still be drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You can do boils of smaller quantities.  6 liters is actually nearly the same as 6 quarts (at least here in the US), and this is not really enough for the extract, boil water, and room to bubble up. so I might boil the can in two batches.  Add half the can to the pot, add water to about 3/4 up and bring to a boil.  Boils notoriously overtop, so be careful!  Then boil for about an hour (you don't need a vigorous boil as you aren't adding hops), just a happy boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add this to your fermenter with some cold water. Not too much yet, but enough so you don't melt your fermenter - if it's glass you have to cool the boiled wort a bit too or you will break it. If you have loads of chlorine in your water you may want to treat it or use bottled, here our water is fine as is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat and add enough cold water to make the quantity you want - 5 gallons is typical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add yeast, put on the airlock, and you are on your way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12965" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T22:30:58.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1490" CreationDate="2015-11-22T22:40:50.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having same problem. I finally tried doubling the lid o-rings and was able to hold pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12966" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T22:40:50.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16546" CreationDate="2015-11-23T04:30:42.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not tasted a &quot;ten tidy&quot; yet, but based on my experience with wine and oak chips, I would say that one week is enough to get some wood taste.  After 2 weeks, I felt the oak taste was too strong for a wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So according to that experience, I would say that after a week take a small sample to taste.  Then decide if you'd like to leave it more time or not.  Take another sample every 2-3 days until you are satisfied with the amount of extraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T04:30:42.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-23T11:56:14.573" Score="1" ViewCount="1908" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few years back I tried brewing my first Ginger beer hoping to get a result that would come close to the one that Crabbies makes (which I love). The result ended up very bitter and it just wasn't a nice drink. That kinda ruined the hobby for me and I gave it up after my first try, but recently I have been thinking about giving it another try. I have tried googling the recipe I used a few years ago, but I did not regcognize it.&#xA;So my question is: is there a recipe around that comes close to Crabbies ginger beer? And does anyone have experience in brewing Crabbies clone or similar brews?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12967" LastEditorUserId="12967" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T13:44:23.950" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T01:43:38.553" Title="Crabbies ginger beer clone recipe" Tags="|ginger-beer|beginner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-23T16:40:48.220" Score="1" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to start an out the box Stout tonight and would like to know if anyone has any tips to make this great tasting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first time I've tried making a stout so am rather clueless at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12970" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T15:54:59.620" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T15:54:59.620" Title="How to make a great stout?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|brewing|stout|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-12-04T20:35:04.683" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16560" CreationDate="2015-11-23T18:09:54.913" Score="2" ViewCount="1004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottled my homebrew a week ago - TrueBrew Bavarian Hefeweizen.  Yesterday I popped a bottle to make sure it was carbonating, and for a sneak preview.  I was pleasantly surprised with the aroma and flavor up front, but the finish was weak and left something to be desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just curious (since I have nothing but time on my hands to worry), is it possible this is just because I only bottled a week ago, and will get better with age?  Or perhaps could I have done something better\different for my batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 1&lt;/strong&gt; - I got a few comments all seeming to indicate that the beer was &quot;flat&quot;.  I shouldn't have used that term at all in the title (sorry), the beer wasn't &quot;flat&quot;, I was talking about the flavor of the beer itself, the taste was just bland.  A nice aroma and flavor up front, and a nice mouth feel (for only one week into conditioning), but the finish on the palate was.. well.. perhaps like a light flat beer.  It's hard to explain, send me your address and I'll send a bottle lol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12951" LastEditorUserId="12951" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T21:08:49.870" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T13:37:35.113" Title="Flat, weak finish to my homebrew. Sign of it being young?" Tags="|flavor|aging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16557" CreationDate="2015-11-23T18:49:53.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well it sounds like you are brewing a Stout from a kit ('out the box Stout').  You can certainly sub certain ingredients per se depending on the kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say the key is to pay attention to fermentation and temperature control.  That means pitching the proper amount of healthy yeast and ferment it in a location where the temp doesn't fluctuate too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that your question is somewhat generic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T18:49:53.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16558" CreationDate="2015-11-23T19:19:13.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be a sign of the age of the beer, and it won't hurt to give it some more time to see if it improves. Not having tasted it, I suspect that it might not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general I wouldn't think of aging as improving a taste I would describe as &quot;weak&quot; or &quot;flat&quot; though. Aging tends to smooth out the flavors and allow different notes to blend and become more cohesive. If there's an aspect to the taste that it's lacking it probably won't appear with age, but if there's a part that you want to taste more of that might happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BJCP describes hefeweizen as: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Flavor: Low to moderately strong banana and clove flavor. The balance and intensity of the phenol and ester components can vary but the best examples are reasonably balanced and fairly prominent. Optionally, a very light to moderate vanilla character and/or low bubblegum notes can accentuate the banana flavor, sweetness and roundness; neither should be dominant if present. The soft, somewhat bready or grainy flavor of wheat is complementary, as is a slightly sweet Pils malt character. Hop flavor is very low to none, and hop bitterness is very low to moderately low. A tart, citrusy character from yeast and high carbonation is often present. Well rounded, flavorful palate with a relatively dry finish. No diacetyl or DMS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of which I wouldn't associate with age. On the other hand, if you say the aroma is good, then the flavor might get better. I wouldn't expect it to get worse with a little more time, but I don't think the style will do well with a lot of aging. Try one next week, and the following weeks for a month maybe two. If you still don't like where it's going then it's probably as good as it's going to get. I've been able to cook pretty well with beers that weren't any good to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastEditorUserId="12035" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T13:37:35.113" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T13:37:35.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16562" CreationDate="2015-11-23T22:59:38.617" Score="0" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about 24 hours into fermenting my first IPA in a carboy using Safale-04.  The fermentation is going well but I noticed small particles floating around in all directions.  My best guess is that these are either clumps of yeast or hop particles (maybe both?) that are being moved around by the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; being generated by fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be hard to see but they are the small areas in this picture and they move around almost as fast as I would expect in boiling water:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YevH0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YevH0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Small lighter clumps throughout beer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this fairly normal for fermentation with a highly flocculative yeast or a larger amount of hops?  Or maybe this just a really aggressive fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T23:48:22.840" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T23:48:22.840" Title="Rapidly moving particles during fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16561" CreationDate="2015-11-23T23:40:19.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a totally normal active fermentation.  It won't be flocculated yeast at this point, so much as break protein and hop material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T23:40:19.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16565" CreationDate="2015-11-24T13:59:10.637" Score="1" ViewCount="314" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/12484/12958&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; I would like to know how to best make my Ginger Beer Plant grow. Another but related question would be what the most important factors for growth are. Water? Temperature? Sugar? Citric acid? I would like to not add lots of stuff that would not usually be part of Ginger Beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T16:38:33.667" Title="How do I increase the quantity of Ginger Beer Plant using ingredients I would use anyway?" Tags="|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16567" CreationDate="2015-11-24T16:17:40.537" Score="1" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just created my first 5 gallon batch of white wine, and it turned out pretty good. However about a month ago I reracked it with sparkolloid powder allowing the lees to settle at the bottom, but have since been having trouble separating the lees from the liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After waiting for the wine to clear I poured it out for bottling, but a ton of lees got mixed in with the wine. I got rid of a lot of the lees and reracked, but unfortunately it took over two weeks before I could try again (partly because it got foggy again after I moved the carboy). This time I tried putting a coffee filter over the top of the carboy and poured it out. The problem with that is that the filter makes it very difficult for any air to get into the carboy, causing it to pour out one drip at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an efficient way to solve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12975" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T21:53:50.927" Title="After adding sparkolloid to homemade wine in a carboy, how do I remove the liquid without stirring up the lees?" Tags="|wine|lees|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16563" CreationDate="2015-11-24T16:27:30.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To grow Saccharomyces and Lactobacillus you need three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Energy&lt;/strong&gt; - This comes from sugars and oxygen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fat&lt;/strong&gt; - This &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatty_acid_synthesis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;can be, to some extent&lt;/a&gt;, synthesized from carbohydrates (sugar) and oxygen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Protein&lt;/strong&gt; - This cannot be created using water, sugar, and citric acid. These things simply does not contain enough nitrogen, not to mention that only specific nitrogen carriers are really accessible to your plant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, one of three things is simply missing. Minuscule amount of protein present in ginger root will at best allow your plant to retain it's volume, but it's far from enough to increase it. You need some source of easily accessible &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amino_acid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;amino acids&lt;/a&gt; in your nourishment fluid. And no recipe for ginger beer I ever seen included anything like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer wort is great for that because malt is designed by nature to provide everything needed for growth. Ginger root, on the other hand, was designed by nature as energy source mostly - it can regrow whole plant, but only when actively gathering nitrogen from the ground (oversimplifying, of course). And sugar is exactly nothing but energy source by design. OK, it can be made into fat, but that's only because fat is long-term energy storage by nature's* design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR You can't&lt;/strong&gt;, unless you would use pretty non-standard things anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* I don't care if it was nature. Or if it was anything like design. No philosophy intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T16:38:33.667" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T16:38:33.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16509" CreationDate="2015-11-24T18:55:35.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using a refractometer and I failed to account for the EtOH in the solution.  Using the link, I was able to calculate that the ABV was actually 4.3% rather than 3%.  After I posted my original question, I had raised the temp to 62 degrees for a two day rest and then dropped it down to a lagering temp.  I am proud to report that he final ABV is approximately 4.4%.  I'm happy with this result and it means that my farm to table beer concept is actually working.  You see, I grew everything from scratch.  The barley.  The hops.  Malting the barley, drying the hops.  Every step was done from scratch.  I tasted the green beer and it will be good after lagering.  Smooth.  Nice mouth feel.  Rich.  But not too complex.  Overall, a really good beer.  I just hope it clarifies to perfection.  I used PVPP (Polyclar) after fermentation.  I dumped 3-4 pints out of the conical fermenter and I hope the rest drops out.  I'm going to let it rest for a few more weeks and then transfer to a 5 gal keg and a 5 gal carboy.  I want to see if more junk drops out in the carboy.  For the keg, I'm curious to know if it drops out and then if it is able to be sucked out in the first few pints and then gets perfectly clear.  Anyway, thanks guys for the help.  I'm embarrassed to admit that I did not know that EtOH would screw up my F.G. readings.&#xA;Love, from CA&#xA;Becky the Brewer &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12938" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T18:55:35.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16564" CreationDate="2015-11-24T20:23:27.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to upgrade your equipment by a few dollars. Get yourself what's called a &quot;racking cane&quot;. Your siphon tubing attaches to it. Because it is stiff you have better control of the end of the tube, as well they come with caps to help redirect the pull from upward rather than sucking up all the less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's ok to suck up a tiny bit if you put the racking cane in and let it sit still it shouldn't move and only suck up a half dollar size of lees off the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like to tilt my carboys so the lees settles down into a corner a bit more which allows me to get more clear fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T20:23:27.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16546" CreationDate="2015-11-25T05:36:01.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;wild stab in the dark here but I think it makes sense. I have several jars of varying chars of oak in different whiskeys and wines. I plan on pulling them out, soaking them in another jar of like beer to be brewed, and then adding to full batch. My hope is this would simulate a second (brewers) use barrel and at the very least less aggressive and could work from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T05:36:01.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16557" CreationDate="2015-11-25T06:51:41.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't make something taste better if you do not know what it tastes like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brew the beer as you have it. Taste it, determine what it needs, then re-brew the beer with new changes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T06:51:41.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16557" CreationDate="2015-11-25T17:38:38.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stouts from a kit are usually better than other styles of beer since the kit cannot contain any hop aroma, or flavor, and a Stout is fine without either of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, to get the best out of any beer, you want to be sure your brewing practices are up to par:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;pay attention to sanitation - anything touching cold beer or unboiled wort should be made sanitary using using a sanitizer, such as StarSan.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;rehydrate the yeast in body-temp water before pitching to get the best cell count from the packet&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;place the beer at the correct temperature - for a stout, 16-18C would be ideal, increasing the temperature to 20-22C after 3-4 days to help dry out the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically for a stout:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;substitute sugar additions with dry/liquid malt extract to improve the maltiness. Medium color for a more malty stout, dark color for a stronger rostedness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;add some lactose, or maltodextrin for a smoother mouthfeel&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;add coffee/chocolate nibs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;keep the carbonation low (2-3oz sugar per 5gal batch should be plenty, compared to 4-5oz for a normally carbed beer)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T17:38:38.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16535" CreationDate="2015-11-26T18:55:18.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope UV is bad for beer. It will make it taste horrible (skunky is one of the aromas that will be produced). I you mean harmful to people, then don't worry. There are no harmful bacteria in beer, they can't survive in the beer and bottle environment.  If you mean harmful to the beer, then filtering and pasteurization can remove or kill these organizims.  Many beers, usually ones high in alcohol, however, are aged on lees or are otherwise bottle-conditioned and are not pasteurized or filtered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12965" LastEditorUserId="12965" LastEditDate="2015-11-28T17:34:38.063" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T17:34:38.063" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16574" CreationDate="2015-11-26T22:18:06.710" Score="1" ViewCount="2681" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am keen to start Home brewing but brewing 23 litres at a time seems a bit excessive, so I'd like to halve the recipe and only use half a can of brew kit. Does anyone know if this works and how long so you store the kit once it's been opened? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12984" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T17:10:21.193" Title="Can you brew only half a can and store the rest for later?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|brewing|kits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16573" CreationDate="2015-11-27T02:18:41.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you can make half a batch.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can keep liquid malt extract well sealed in the fridge for a few weeks, then it will start degrading.  It will loose its freshness, but shouldn't spoil.  If you plan using it within 2-3 months, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2883/liquid-malt-extract-storage&quot;&gt;Post&lt;/a&gt; regarding LME storage, suggest that keeping it frozen is also a good option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/kolsch-altbier/item/1362-shelf-life-storing-your-ingredients&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BYO article&lt;/a&gt; mentions that you can keep opened liquid malt extract for a maximum  of 3 months:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Liquid malt syrup that has been opened, or is sold in bulk plastic containers, has a much shorter shelf life [than DME]. While buying malt syrup in this form is normally less expensive, it must be used in less than 3 months, or the syrup will degrade or even grow mold. If you have malt syrup in this form, the best way to store it is in the fridge. Pick the smallest possible container to eliminate airspace and avoid oxidation. While the extremely high sugar content inhibits yeast activity and molding, over a three- to four-month time period the syrup will lose its freshness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.: &lt;em&gt;Making half a batch, is as much work as making a full 23L batch.  Knowing that you can store your beer for a few months, 23L isn't that much after all.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T02:18:41.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16573" CreationDate="2015-11-27T17:10:21.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What Clinton Green said - making a &quot;half batch&quot; is as much work as making a &quot;full batch&quot;.  You will also find that splitting a container of liquid is difficult.  Cool storage of opened containers shouldn't be an issue for a few months.  Aging is reduced in half for every 10°C cooler you can store something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12986" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T17:10:21.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16564" CreationDate="2015-11-27T21:53:50.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first time I read the question, I didn't realize that you where pouring the wine directly from the carboy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Escoce answer is good, a racking can is a must have, but I would like to add a few more tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you last rack your wine, leave your carboy where you need it to be for racking, if possible (at some sufficient height and already tilted if you want, ready for gravity siphoning).  This way, you won't need to move it before bottling.  Hence, less chances of disturbing the sediments...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the clip that comes with the racking cane (to attach the racking cane to the carboy or bucket) so it won't move during the bottling process and disturb the sediments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the cap at the bottom of the racking cane, so the cane will set at the bottom of the carboy, but will only suck the liquid just above the sediments (there are caps that will raise the racking cane more than others).  Take a look at how thick the sediment layer is and choose the appropriate cap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have to move the carboy before bottling, do it gently.  If you disturb the sediments, you will have to wait a few days to let them settle again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Of course, don't forget to sanitize the racking cane properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T21:53:50.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16579" CreationDate="2015-11-28T13:15:33.820" Score="4" ViewCount="871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing with these two types of malts and was just wondering what types of beer are typically made with them and what taste characteristics they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T19:36:05.450" Title="What characteristics does Halcyon and Maris Otter bring to beer?" Tags="|malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-28T13:34:11.810" Score="1" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a kegerator and have a German beer on draft.  There are limited options in volume so it is a tight fit.  The type a coupler I purchased is too tall by roughly 1/4&quot;.  Is there anywhere I can look for a shorter version?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12987" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T19:53:23.350" Title="Shorter type A German slider coupler" Tags="|kegerator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16577" CreationDate="2015-11-28T16:08:05.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maris Otter is typically used with English beers, especially &quot;ESBs&quot; (Extra Special Bitter). You wouldn't use it in a hoppy beer like an American IPA - the hops would crowd out the malt flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is often described as being more malty and &quot;biscuity&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a relative beginner, I've been using an ESB recipe taken from a kit and substituting ingredients. This latest brew (currently in the bottle - almost ready to taste) uses Maris Otter for the base malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;November BYO had an article celebrating Maris Otter's 50th Anniversary and this includes some recipes including both a Mild and an ESB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T16:08:05.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-29T12:34:05.130" Score="2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making fruit wines for a long time.  Fiejoa, blackberry, kiwifruit, prune, elderberry, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commonly leave the wine in a 20+ litre container for a year or two before bottling.  It seems that no matter how long it's left, the wine always tastes a bit rough when I open it up for bottling, but improved drastically over the next few weeks.  Something happens as a result of the bottling process, that I'd like to understand better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7965" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T14:04:02.043" Title="What is the wine maturation stage that occurs just after bottling?" Tags="|wine|maturation|country-wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-29T13:28:34.667" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;only bubbling in airlock every 1.5 ish mins. FG is good. But I am under the minimum range of 7-10 days. I have only gone about 5 days.  Am I good to bottle??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12989" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T04:24:22.520" Title="I have let American IPA brew ferment not quite to the min recommended time, but the final gravity is good. Can i bottle?" Tags="|americanipa|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16581" CreationDate="2015-11-29T16:01:46.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The time range is only an estimate it's ok to be a bit over or under, same for the predicted final gravity. The airlock is also only useful as an estimate, there could be plenty of activity going on while there isn't much visibly going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only completely reliable method to know that fermentation is done, is that the gravity has stabilized. Leave it for another couple days and check again, if the final gravity hasn't changed then you're good to bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T16:01:46.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16581" CreationDate="2015-11-29T19:03:52.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's too soon to bottle.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If fermentation is not completely finished and you bottle, you risk having bottles exploding; loosing beer.  It is no worth the risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the fermentation is complete before bottling. Take a gravity reading at the end fermentation, and if the gravity reading is steady for 2-3 days, it generally means it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waiting a little time before bottling (about a week) also helps to get better clarity, the yeast that is still in suspension will flocculate (fall at the bottom).  If you bottle right away, you may still have yeast in suspension... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at this text for more information about flocculation : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/files/Flocculation_help.pdf&quot;&gt;White Labs PDF document&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T19:03:52.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16577" CreationDate="2015-11-29T19:36:05.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used those two malts so far (I should very soon though), but I still managed to get some information.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Maris Otter:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This malt has a lot of the bready, biscuit character that Maris Otter is famous for, though the Thomas Fawcett seems be a bit more toasty than the others. This malt is traditionally floor malted. I like using this one in my bitters and those beers that I want a lot of clean biscuit aroma and flavor. I typically won't use a lot of dark crystal and roasted malts with this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Halcyon:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Adds a degree of biscuit flavor to the beer. Brighter and lighter in flavor than Pearl, Halcyon is a great malt for the production of Real Ales. It tends to produce a less sweet wort than Maris Otter. All the base malts from Thomas Fawcett &amp;amp; Sons are grown by local, family farmers near the maltings area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://perfectpint.blogspot.ca/2011/03/british-malts-part-i.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://perfectpint.blogspot.ca/2011/03/british-malts-part-i.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/maillard-malts-fawcett-halcyon-pale-malt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/maillard-malts-fawcett-halcyon-pale-malt.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T19:36:05.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16586" CreationDate="2015-11-29T20:50:05.270" Score="2" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am keen to start home brewing but I don't want to make 23l of beer at a time. I'd like to brew smaller batches of different beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked at the starter brewery kits available locally and they are all 30l containers for brewing 23l.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have spoken to a brew master and he assured me it is possible to brew half, say 11.5l in a 30l container but oxidation and temperature are very tricky to get right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone successfully brewed 11.5l in a 30l container and if so what brands did you use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12984" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T21:24:25.650" Title="Has anyone had any success brewing 11.5l in a 30l container?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16585" CreationDate="2015-11-29T21:24:25.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew 12.5L batches in 30L plastic fermenters.  Have done 15 batches or so without any issue.  The &quot;fermenters&quot; are generic 30L water containers from various hardware stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12176" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T21:24:25.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16578" CreationDate="2015-11-30T06:15:20.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a (brand unknown) european-style faucet that came with a 90% elbow as an inlet. The fitting also fits on the beer-out of an A keg coupler, maybe something like that would save you some room?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also low-profile 90° elbows out there, a quick web search will show you who sells them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2015-11-30T12:23:33.940" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T12:23:33.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16590" CreationDate="2015-11-30T11:15:27.563" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;Latest consensus seems to indicate that racking to a secondary when making beer in small scale is &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/88/if-when-to-move-to-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;not recommended&lt;/a&gt; anymore. Is racking to a secondary still recommended for making ciders or wines? If yes, what makes it desirable for ciders and wines but not for beers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12811" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T16:41:34.190" Title="Secondary for ciders and wines" Tags="|cider|wine|secondary|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16588" CreationDate="2015-11-30T14:18:15.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I think of &quot;raking to a secondary&quot; I can think of two reasons you would want to do this. #1-Clarity; racking gives the beverage more time for sediment to settle out. #2-Aging; depending on the beverage racking give it more time to age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12991" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T14:18:15.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16588" CreationDate="2015-11-30T16:41:34.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't say it is a consensus, although it is not required all the time, there are cases where racking is usefull for beer as well: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/68/whats-the-point-of-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;What's the point of secondary fermentation?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big difference between the process of making beer and wine is the time that the must/wort sits in the container (bucket/carboy/demi-john).  Because wine will need more time before bottling, it has to be racked to prevent potential problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Autolysis&lt;/strong&gt;, is a process where yeast cells are destroyed under the weight of the liquid/sediments, unleashing unpleasent flavor.  This is not a problem with beer because it takes several months to a year before autolysis starts and most beers are bottled before 6 months.  However, wines and ciders may be aged a lot longer before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, because of the aging time, it is good to move the wine from a primary fermentor (usually a bucket) to a secondary fermentor (usually a carboy or demi-john) before the end of fermentation.  The reason is because there is more air contact (head space) in a bucket compared to a carboy, there is a bigger risk of &lt;strong&gt;oxydation&lt;/strong&gt; in a bucket.  So a bucket is good as a primary fermentor because some oxygen is required to start the fermentation, but not so good for aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not splash your liquid during racking, there is very little risk of oxydation, specially if you do it before the end of fermentation (active fermentation will produce carbon dioxide to fill the head space and protect the wine from oxydation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T16:41:34.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7659" CreationDate="2015-11-30T18:59:07.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also when you drop the temperature quickly on a lager yeast they throw off more esters, because it stresses them. Giving the beer a more ale-like ester profile, which defeats the purpose of lagers. Jamil taught us that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12993" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T18:59:07.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16580" CreationDate="2015-11-30T21:05:28.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aging in the carboy or demijohn or whatever is called bulk aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it's bottled, it's called bottle aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have noticed, it's different, and primarily results from the volume of the container. Large containers age slower than smaller ones, however you want to bulk age so it's all aging together before you divide it out into individual bottles. Different things happen at different layers in bulk (I couldn't say what precisely), and so you want it to stay together so the wine can&#xA;Move into and out of the regions slowly. Once it's bottled into a smaller bottle it's been sequestered from the rest of the batch and takes on a life of its own and each bottle will become slightly distinct from each other bottle due to how its treated, light, temp, etc. even if it's standing up or laying down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T21:05:28.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-30T23:47:36.073" Score="2" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day, community! I've got a dilemma. 3 month ago I made 3 different ciders (splitting one 3 ways) using the same blend of Granny Smith, Golden Delicious, and Red Delicious apples. It was a freshly pressed sweet apple cider right in front of me. For each of the batch I didn't use any yeast allowing the ciders to ferment naturally (from what ever was on those apples). Fermentation went slightly different giving each batch (3 gallons each) a unique character. The ciders a little bit hazy, with &quot;rustic&quot; clearness, like a farm or barn style cider should be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, which category of the BJCP does it fall into? Judging by apple varieties, it is C1A (New World Cider), but I haven't find any word on wild fermentation in the whole guide &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2015_Guidelines_Cider.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2015_Guidelines_Cider.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions? Any help would be appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T15:52:03.923" Title="Wild Farmhouse style Cider and BJCP Classification" Tags="|cider|bjcp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16594" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-01T01:13:30.513" Score="1" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been fermenting my pomagranate mead for about 2 weeks now and I'm planning on racking it in a week. My question is why does my mead have a brown red color? Is this a normal colour for pomagranate mead. Is this brown colour from the honey or I added some grape tannin which had a brown colour ( I didn't add that much). I'm going to let if ferment more but I was just curious about the colour. Also is there a way to make it a darker red and less brown?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12899" LastEditorUserId="12899" LastEditDate="2015-12-01T03:36:48.850" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T17:41:31.347" Title="Pomagranate mead color" Tags="|fermentation|mead|brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="345" CreationDate="2015-12-01T03:07:43.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There might be differences in a long run with pasteurized cider, but if you're planning to consume it within a year, you wont' see the differences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might read this post from a guy who did like 20 different yeast on pasteurized and unpasteurized ciders. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=83060&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=83060&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I can say is that I tried keeving on pasteurized sweet apple cider, and it didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T03:07:43.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16594" CreationDate="2015-12-01T14:32:24.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the answer lies in your question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pomagranate itself gives a red juice color. Honey is yellowish, it can be light or dark.  Grape tannin (the powder) is light brown.  Add Red + Yellow + Brown, and you get a red brownish mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a better color, I suggest adding some grapes that have a deep red color,  like Alicante Bouschet, to your recipe. If you can get some, you will need very little to change the color, so it should not change the taste of the mead too much.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about other ways. I personally don't like adding food coloring, but it can work as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T14:32:24.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16598" CreationDate="2015-12-01T15:16:51.113" Score="2" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was planning on making 35L of 1.070 ish OG dubbel on Friday.  I don't have any yeast to hand and was wondering whether the smack packs of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/wyeast-activator-3787-trappist.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/wyeast-activator-3787-trappist.html&lt;/a&gt; would be appropriate at, if so, what pitch rate would be best?  I use brewtoad for recipes and it's suggesting &gt;300 bn cells are needed, which would make this pretty pricey yeast order.  Better to leave for another time and make a starter, or would under-pitching this be OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12995" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T16:28:56.747" Title="Yeast for dubbel" Tags="|yeast|belgian|wyeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16597" CreationDate="2015-12-01T16:28:56.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When can you get the yeast? I would definitely not go for it if you're not going to be able to let it get started at all. If you can get the yeast a day or two in advance and get it partially started then you're more likely to avoid off flavors. Even if you have to cut it a little short. You might try buying a couple packs and giving those a short start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, let's be clear the best beer will come from waiting for a proper starter. Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style18.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BJCP style guide for the dubbel&lt;/a&gt; doesn't look good. Under pitching you're likely to end up with more fruity flavors and less of many other characteristics, like body and malt, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sciencebrewer.com/2012/03/02/pitching-rate-experiment-part-deux-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article at Science Brewer.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T16:28:56.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16603" CreationDate="2015-12-02T18:47:42.440" Score="1" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I kegged a black porter, from an extract kit 4 days ago, it is still carbonating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a green apple taste to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let it sit in the primary for 7 weeks, a midwest supplies 6.5 gal bucket w/ a lid that does not have a gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I transferred to a big mouth bubbler for 7 days and then kegged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed another beer, using the same bucket and lid and you can tell there is pressure in the bucket, as the lid is pushed up toward the middle of the lid, when I push down on the lid gently, bubbles come thru the airlock. The airlock is not very active, I think air is escaping since the lid is not air tight. I consulted an employee at midwest before buying the bucket and lid and they assured me it is fine and I have read on here about other people having similar concerns about lids w/o a gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had other beers that had a green taste to it and after a couple weeks in the keg it mellows down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some insight as to what may of gone wrong, did I keep it in the primary too long? That is my first thought. I'll definitely only have it in the primary bucket for no more than 2 weeks going forward, as I use my big mouth bubbler for secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it brewed at a decent temperature and I sanitized all the equipment, reading up on green tasting beer leads me to believe it had to do with too air exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also used us-05 dry yeast and it took about 30 hours for the bucket lid to show that it had built up pressure in the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10679" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T08:41:34.930" Title="Green apple taste with beer that used bucket with lid with no gasket" Tags="|off-flavor|oxygenation|bucket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-02T20:57:38.917" Score="3" ViewCount="2208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing my first brew and it doesn't seem to be going too well! I know there are loads of questions along these lines but I couldn't find one that matches my scenario closely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did all the prep and work but when it came to doing the SG reading I found the hydrometer in my kit was shattered so was unable to take a reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had read that using filtered water was a good idea so I used our filtered-water-dispensing-fridge to get some so was concerned about temperature but also didn't have a thermometer to hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add to that that our heating has broken so the house is much cooler than usual and it hasn't been a great start!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 days later and very little seems to be happening.  The room where it is doesn't smell malty at all and I'm yet to see any bubbles through the airlock. I had a look inside and it looked pretty much as it did when I left it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I'm not sure what to do! Warm it up in the airing cupboard for a bit and see if it starts? Take an SG reading now (with the replacement not-smashed hydrometer)? &quot;Pitch&quot; more yeast (which I assume is just sprinkling more on top)? Give up and get a new kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advice appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13004" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T14:14:19.593" Title="No bubbling after 3 days and no SG reading at start" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|first-time-brewer|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16601" CreationDate="2015-12-02T21:27:03.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, stop opening it, you looking at it isn't going to make anything good happen and could potentially lead to an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to get it somewhere warmer, assuming it's an ale yeast (you didn't say what type of yeast you were using) try to get it to 65-70F.  Swirl it very gently a few times when it's in the warmer area to try to get the yeast active again.  Then wait several days.  During that several days go buy another hydrometer.  Once you have it and your fermenter has been in the warmer area for a week take a sample and check the gravity.  If fermentation has occurred you should see a gravity at or about the gravity of your kit FG, 1.014.  If fermentation hasn't occurred then you can worry about pitching more yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And by the way, a bubbling air lock is only one sign of fermentation, and it doesn't always happen.  The only way to be sure is to take gravity readings.  What sort of beer was it?  A kit?  IF you can tell us that we can tell you what sort of final SG you should expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12176" LastEditorUserId="12176" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T22:25:46.150" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T22:25:46.150" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16600" CreationDate="2015-12-03T08:41:34.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally green apple (acetaldehyde) is due to fermentation not being complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you cold crash? Did you verify that your beer was done fermenting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is strange that your fermenter builds up so much pressure, even with an airlock attached. Are you filling the airlock to the top or to the line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much CO2 will cause the yeast to slow down, which might be why it did not ferment out (if that is the problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is more info on Acetaldehyde&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-4/is-my-beer-ruined/common-off-flavors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-4/is-my-beer-ruined/common-off-flavors&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aroxa.com/beer/beer-flavour-standard/acetaldehyde/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.aroxa.com/beer/beer-flavour-standard/acetaldehyde/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T08:41:34.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16604" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-04T15:20:05.933" Score="1" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into building an automated RIMS system. I think I understand the principles pretty well, but there is one sticking point for me. Since the heating element is container in the pipe, I would assume that you have to heat the original volume of water necessary for the brewing, before you add the grain. So how is this done? do automated RIMS systems usually have an extra hot water res that holds some of the pre - heated water, and then a a series of valves are triggered? I would assume the same is true for the sparge water. You need to add water to the system during the sparge, so where does that water come from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2609" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T15:33:33.923" Title="Do I need two tanks in a RIMS system" Tags="|sparge|rims|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16604" CreationDate="2015-12-04T15:33:33.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the mash liquor, you could do the strike-temp heating in the mash tun through the RIMS tube before adding grains, and then RIMS to hold/change temp. The sparge liquor is going to be a problem, though; without a second vessel, you'd need to add cold sparge liquor, then RIMS-heat it up to sparge temp, which probably isn't going to do great things for the mash (though I'm not sure of the actual effects).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One alternative would be to try to do a &quot;no-sparge&quot; full-volume RIMS setup, with a sufficiently-large mash tun and corresponding efficiency impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen two-vessel setups that basically use the boiling kettle as a liquor tank, then recirc between the kettle and mash tun, effectively looking to &quot;equalize&quot; the sugars in the liquor between the two vessels during the recirc before fully draining the mash tun and commencing the boil. Though it appears to be more of a HERMS setup, Sean Coates has a great diagram of such a configuration and process: &lt;a href=&quot;http://caedmon.net/2-vessel_brewing.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scoates two-vessel diagram http://caedmon.net/2-vessel_brewing.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=629508&amp;amp;postcount=6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is more fully described in this HomeBrewTalk thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T15:33:33.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16607" CreationDate="2015-12-05T01:46:59.593" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fermenting wine from juice. I forgot to rack into the glass bottle after fermentation begun. So I achieved the whole fermentation in the plastic bucket. Then I racked into the glass bottle with the valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the wine acid but I did not detect a vinegar flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to lower the acidity of a wine after/during second fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13008" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T15:38:55.673" Title="Acidity in wine" Tags="|fermentation|wine|acidity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16606" CreationDate="2015-12-05T02:57:33.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, it is possible.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy acid-lowering products (like potassium bicarbonate) at your winemaking supply store.  You will add some little by little every few days until you achieve the desired acidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;em&gt;cold stabilization&lt;/em&gt;, is a process where you leave your wine for about 3 weeks at a temperature between 0°C to 4°C.  It precipitates tartaric acids, so this may also reduce the acidity of your wine.  You will need to rack your wine about 6 weeks after the cold stabilization to get rid of the acid crystal sediments.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;According to the book &quot;Techniques in Home Winemaking&quot;, cold stabilization at a pH below 3.65 might actually increase the acidity in some cases because it will precipitate not only tartaric acid but also potassium tartrate present in the wine (the two would cancel each others effect on acidity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aging your wine for a few months will also mellow those acids...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T02:57:33.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16581" CreationDate="2015-12-05T04:24:22.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really want to make sure that the yeast has fermented all of the wort, after the initial 5 days of fermentation raise the temp of the wort/beer to 70-72 to get the yeast fermenting any of the remaining sugars.  At this point if the majority of the beer is already fermented you won't introduce any major off flavors from the yeast being in a warmer environment &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12148" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T04:24:22.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3481" CreationDate="2015-12-05T20:59:24.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you temp is too high put stir up the mash with frozen containers of water. You can bring temp down without adding any water directly to mash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13011" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T20:59:24.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-06T06:49:40.490" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made mead numerous times thanks to Ken Schramm's &lt;em&gt;The Compleat MeadMaker&lt;/em&gt; and always been pleased with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an equivalent book for Cider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.E.  Just enough history, technique, recipes and advice to get one started on the path to brewing good cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12815" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T18:43:54.030" Title="Manual for Cider" Tags="|cider|books|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-06T07:06:19.503" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose you only have one yeast available to produce wine, beer, liquor from fruits or grains.&#xA;say post apocalyptic future, and you manage to have fruits or grains and you want to produce alcoholic beverages by manipulating fermentation. What kind of yeast you will keep? (do not take into account the natural process (for instance, yeast in the skin of grape), the idea is that you want to accelerate or enhance fermentation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13008" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T15:29:03.627" Title="All purpose yeast" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16611" CreationDate="2015-12-06T07:42:12.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; much biased toward beer, I suggest &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp862-cry-havoc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Labs: Cry Havoc&lt;/a&gt; as it will ferment at both ale and lager temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arguably, in a post apocalyptic scenario  won't have the electricity to cool any wort/must to lager temperatures but I would be able to find a northern climate that would be more hospitable to lagers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, the idea that anyone would be able to keep a pure strain in less than laboratory conditions is laughable.  Any fermentation would quickly lead to a hybrid that would thrive in the current (less than ideal) conditions that persist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12815" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T07:42:12.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-06T14:56:58.793" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally pitched wyeast 1762 instead if yeast 1056 to brew a stout. Is my beer ruined? Before I pitch the right into the mix and really make a mess of things can anyone with more knowledge guide me please? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13016" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T16:05:03.940" Title="Belgian yeast used to brew a stout" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16613" CreationDate="2015-12-06T16:05:03.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Ruined&quot;? No. But 1762 still definitely create a different ester profile than 1056.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want a traditional american stout profile, then… 1762 is reported to ferment &quot;clean&quot; at the low end of its temperature range, near 65. Pitch the 1056 as well, that will help limit how much 1762 ferments. If you can control the fermentation temperature, then ferment in the low 60's especially for the first few days, then raise the temp a bit to help fermentation finish off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, just let it go as is and see if you like your Belgian-style stout. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T16:05:03.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16616" CreationDate="2015-12-06T21:04:28.570" Score="4" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that some all grain brewers prefer to steep roasted barely &lt;s&gt;during&lt;/s&gt; prior to the boil, because it would otherwise lower the pH of the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to this, what purpose would an all grain brewer have when they steep grains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T02:26:32.440" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T02:26:32.440" Title="Would an all grain brewer ever want to steep grains?" Tags="|all-grain|steeping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16615" CreationDate="2015-12-07T00:48:34.743" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well you don't steep any grain &quot;during the boil&quot;.  But to avoid upsetting mash pH you can steep all your non mash required grains in the wort during runoff in the kettle before you start the boil.  I routinely add my roasted and crystal malts to a grain bag and steep them this way when I make stouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another application of steeping malts is to actually make two beers.  If the base malt of two recipes is the same I have mashed in to make 12 gallons of base wort.  Then steeped malts in 6 gallon portions to make a Pale ale with half and a Porter in the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There really is no magic to mashing the specialty grains when doing all grain.  Its basically the same thing as diluting out extract and steeping grains like many of us did when we started with extracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T00:48:34.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16611" CreationDate="2015-12-07T15:29:03.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Champagne yeast is the king of yeasts, it will ferment anything, and it will tolerate higher than usual alcohol levels for those who wish it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When other yeasts have failed, it is often a yeast tossed in to save a batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's only downfall is that it is not a gentle yeast, and does not ferment slowly. You therefore can lose some of the more delicate aromas and esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T15:29:03.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16606" CreationDate="2015-12-07T15:38:55.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you adjust acidity, allow the fermentation to stop completely, and let the wine degas it's co2. Carbon dioxide in suspension increases acidity of a fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still feel it needs a reduction in acidity, cold stabilize the wine at just above freezing for a few weeks to let some of the tartaric acid to precipitate out of the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like to make your own cheese, save these crystals as they are used to create curds in some of the fresher cheeses like marscapone and cottage cheese.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T15:38:55.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-07T21:30:23.763" Score="4" ViewCount="2134" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best &lt;strong&gt;configuration&lt;/strong&gt; where you can &lt;strong&gt;decrease&lt;/strong&gt; your chilling time/&lt;strong&gt;increase&lt;/strong&gt; efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is a bit loaded so let me clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the standard issue 20' copper 3/8'' garden hose counter flow chiller.  Works great but I want to get the most out of it and shorten my brew day.  I currently get 10 gallons down to 70 F using 58 F water (hose 1/2 way open) in about 25 minutes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are different setups and operations that may improve the &lt;strong&gt;efficiency&lt;/strong&gt; of the &lt;strong&gt;CFC&lt;/strong&gt;. I am curious as to any incite anyone might have. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it more efficient to pump your wort rather than using gravity?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it more efficient run your wort through the bottom CFC Wort in and have it exit from the top to avoid channeling where the wort might not get in complete contact with the copper?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should you run the hose water full bast and regulate the wort flow or vise versa?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just looking to change any variable except swapping out the CFC for something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6718" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T14:43:19.897" Title="Counterflow Chiller Setup for Optimal Efficiency and Chilling Speed" Tags="|brewing|wort-chiller|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10506" CreationDate="2015-12-07T23:09:07.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm experiencing some of the same problems in the virgin islands.  You're going to have to adapt to the climate or use refrigeration.  I keep my carboy in a cooler that minimizes temp fluctuations.  I keep it in a section of concrete that's partly underground, so I get a stable temp of 80.  Saisons are perfect at that temp.  We have a new brewery in st Thomas that brews a saison, im gonna try to use some of that yeast with a pilsner or munich gold base.  Send me your email, i'll let you know if it turns out.  As far as beers that ferment at colder temp, there are a few ales that are tolerant up to 80 degrees and brewing darker styles hides off flavors, but I think it's temp control or saison's.  scotsmanpa@yahoo.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13020" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T23:09:07.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2015-12-08T15:26:04.677" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Denny doesn't know what he is talking about. YES, they should be weighed down. Some of mine were floating on the top and the aroma was not very strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13023" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T15:26:04.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-08T19:20:11.587" Score="0" ViewCount="1651" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey I'm trying to figure out the difference between a beer like Guinness (Stout) vs Six Point Sweet Action (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/Recipes2/recipe_140.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cream Ale&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13025" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T16:34:22.660" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T16:34:22.660" Title="Cream Ale vs Stout" Tags="|stout|ale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16636" CreationDate="2015-12-08T20:07:46.290" Score="2" ViewCount="1373" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like an amateur, I forgot to measure my cold-pressed coffee's gravity before combining in secondary. Anybody have an estimate of the gravity of a 24-hour cold-pressed steep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started with 36 ounces of water, 7.5 ounces of med/coarse ground coffee in a cheese cloth bag, and wound up with 27 ounces of concentrate. I added this to 4 gallons of beer at 1.018.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13026" LastEditorUserId="1599" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T15:06:45.493" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T15:11:28.557" Title="Specific gravity after adding cold-pressed coffee?" Tags="|specific-gravity|coffee|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16624" CreationDate="2015-12-08T21:15:45.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is inconsequential. When steeping coffee when hot or cold (same with tea really), there is no appreciable addition of anything that would change the density of the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at this at this a little more from a practical standpoint rather than strictly mathematical. Let's say you steep 1 tablespoon of coffee for each cup and there are 16 cups in a gallon you have 16 teaspoons of coffee. How much does that actually weight? When you measure it and realize that what is extracted from the coffee is in the magnitude of 1000ths of the actual dry solid, you should quickly be able to see that the change in specific gravity will not be measurable with a beer or winemaker's hydrometer. You'd need a hydrometer that measures a scale between .9999 and 1.0001 to note a change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T21:15:45.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2015-12-09T05:24:17.130" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, I have found if you want that true IPA aroma you get from fruity hops when dry hopping, you definitely want that bag weighted down. It is the same as making a cup of tea. If the bag is not fully submerged, you're not wetting all of the tea leaves and as such, not making the strongest tea you possibly can. Dry hopping is same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice as others have pointed out is to drop the hops right into the fermenting vessel. They will float at first and then you will find they will all mostly sink. When you use a hop bag, I find air gets trapped and the bag floats instead of sinking like it should. You could weigh it down, but you risk contaminating your brew (which could be a problem if you bottle condition especially).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13021" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T05:24:17.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16623" CreationDate="2015-12-09T05:58:14.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if you are asking what the difference is in regards to ingredients, flavor, color, taste, etc.&#xA;Stouts and Cream Ales are quite different across the board.&#xA;Here's a link to the BJCP (Beer Judge Certification Program) most recently updated style guideline. You can find information on Cream Ales on page 1 and depending on the style of Stout you are looking for, you can find them on other pages (Irish Stouts on page 27, Oatmeal Stouts page 28, etc.)&#xA;The BJCP style guidelines is my go-to for anything beer related because it gives you a total break down on the characteristics of each style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are asking in terms of ingredients, here are some recipes I was able to find that will show you the differences in terms of brewing Cream Ales and Stouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/3344-winter-yum-yum-stout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Winter Yum Yum Stout from Brew Your Own&quot;&gt;Stout Recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/Recipes2/recipe_140.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cream Ale Recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13030" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T14:54:45.360" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T14:54:45.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16610" CreationDate="2015-12-09T06:12:40.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Everything Hard Cider Book by Drew Beechum covers some history, taste attributes of different apples, how to taste cider, and how to adjust it to your taste.  It covers some things that can go wrong and how to fix them.  It contains many different recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8399" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T06:12:40.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16623" CreationDate="2015-12-09T07:22:44.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry Irish Stout (Guinness) is a dark to black ale with chocolate/cacao flavours and aromas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Cream Ale is similar to a Budweiser, but brewed with ale yeast instead of lager yeast. Flavour and aroma on a cream ale is low to none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some brewers (like Kilkenny) call their beer a cream ale because it has a creamy mouthfeel (from the nitro). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T07:22:44.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16635" CreationDate="2015-12-09T14:42:20.860" Score="4" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm following &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=96969&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this stout&lt;/a&gt; recipe for the second time (it's a good one). I had planned to double the recipe to make ~ 40ltrs instead of 20ltrs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe calls for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(2.7KG)  6 lb. Dark Liquid Malt Extract&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My supplies just arrived and my homebrew store substituted 3 x 1.5 Kg Cans of Dark LME with Amber LME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I needed 5.5Kg of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.johnsonsgarden.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/300x/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/1/3/1304_2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dark LME&lt;/a&gt; in the first place, I now have 1 x 1.5Kg Dark LME and 3 x 1.5Kg &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.capncorkhomebrew.com/images/product/e/extract-liquid-extract-muntons-plain-amber-malt-extract-1-ti-256px-256px.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amber&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know what the effect might be on my stout if I use the amber instead of dark? Would it turn out mostly the same except for colour? Just trying to figure out if I should kick up a fuss with my supplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T10:05:11.093" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T10:05:11.093" Title="Substituting Dark LME with Amber LME in a Stout" Tags="|extract|stout|extract-brewing|lme|substitution|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16620" CreationDate="2015-12-09T14:43:19.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;25 min is not too bad, you can reduce flow rate, to increase transfer time but this adds time to your brew day. Or you can use colder water if you get your counter-flow water down to 40F then you will either be able to increase the flow rate or reduce the temperature of your wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want to pump the wort for 2 reasons:&#xA;1. will likely increase flow rate and reduce the efficiency;&#xA;2. you will introduce sheer  forces into the wort, which spoil the long term flavour stability of your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is likely more efficient to run wort from bottom to top for the reasons you mention. so long as you can tip it at the end to save all your precious wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more flow you have from your cooling water the more the cooling effect should be as it has more capacity to carry heat away, but it will be less efficient in terms of quantity of cooling water consumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heartily recommend getting a plate chiller, far more efficient that hose and pipe due to the massive surface area to volume ratios: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beer-Wort-Chiller-Stainless-Steel-Heat-Exchanger-Brewing-Homebrew-Cooler-Water-/351194183525&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beer-Wort-Chiller-Stainless-Steel-Heat-Exchanger-Brewing-Homebrew-Cooler-Water-/351194183525&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T14:43:19.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16610" CreationDate="2015-12-09T14:45:34.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This book started me on my cider brewing path, the rest was just experimentation and the internet: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1854861956/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Real Cider Making on a Small Scale by Michael J. Pooley&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-25T20:23:45.373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T20:23:45.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16580" CreationDate="2015-12-09T14:53:29.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess would be that when you bottle a little oxygen gets into the wine and over the next few days/weeks oxidation of the compounds in the wine reduces the 'roughness' and helps round it out. In a similar way that opening a bottle and letting it breath for 45min before drinking can improve a bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excessive oxidation will lead to vinegar, but a little can improve the wine, and help it develop. The cork in wine allows oxygen to slowly seep into the bottle over years and helps the flavours develop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some in depth analysis of wine oxidation this paper will provide all the information and citations to keep you going: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.467.6011&amp;amp;rep=rep1&amp;amp;type=pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.467.6011&amp;amp;rep=rep1&amp;amp;type=pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T14:53:29.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16631" CreationDate="2015-12-09T15:04:49.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can kick up a fuss you'd be justified as it is not what you ordered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I'd just throw in some extra Dark Patent Malt and Roasted Barley, may be an extra .5lb of each to try and pull back the colour. Adding extra Roasted barley may lead to a more harsh bitterness, but adding more patent black should be OK.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do nothing you should end up with a similar body, just will lack the darkness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just go with what I'd got and see how it comes out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T15:04:49.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16624" CreationDate="2015-12-09T15:11:28.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You started with 128 x 4 = 512oz of beer at 1.018. You added 27 ounces of coffee. We will treat the coffee like water, since it contains no fermentable sugars. You've diluted the beer by (27/512) ~ 5.3%. So the gravity of the diluted beer is 1 + (18 - 18 x 5.3%) = 1.017.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it sounds like your beer is done fermenting, you might actual care more about how you affected the alcohol percentage. The calculation is almost the same. Assuming your beer started at 8% alcohol, the dilution factor remains the same so, the new alcohol percentage is 8 - 8 x 5.3% = 7.58%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T15:11:28.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16548" CreationDate="2015-12-09T15:12:10.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having eaten a quince and tasted a cider apple I do not think that a quince is as bitter as a cider apple, but it may depend on the quince.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the quince juice is tasting as bitter as black tea then I would go with your suggestion and only bitter the half from eating apples. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please report back on how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T15:12:10.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16640" CreationDate="2015-12-09T17:26:44.377" Score="2" ViewCount="1469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering something. When I brew beer, I mash my grain for an hour or so at 60-70oC. I then separate the wort from the grain. Then I add hop into the boiling wort for 90 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend told me that he is doing his hopping boil for with the grain still in the mashtun. I mean after the mashing part, instead of separating the grain and the wort, he leaves the grains in the mashtun. He then proceed to add hops in this boiling mixture of wort and grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that bad or people do this ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12224" LastEditorUserId="2295" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T08:06:21.230" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T01:58:31.040" Title="Keeping the grain ... While boiling. Is that bad?" Tags="|hops|boil|mashing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16638" CreationDate="2015-12-09T17:31:32.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling the grain will add a LOT of starch and fiber into suspension. I wouldn't do it, though I guess if you are after a specific character that can only be had through boiling your grain, then I'd go for it. I would imagine this will be hard on clarifying and make you burn through more filters, if you do filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T17:31:32.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16638" CreationDate="2015-12-09T19:00:09.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Raising the mash above 78 C generally runs the risk of extracting polyphenols, which will add astringency to your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally you'll extract other compounds that will make having a clear product more challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiling with grains can be done if your boiling a small portion of your mash and returning it to increase the temperature of the overall mash. This is known as decoction mashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add hops to your mash, you will derive some benefits from this. Keep in mind the solubility and extraction of your alpha acids will be lower unless boiling and any oils and flavour compounds extracted will be volatolized inn the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would not recommend boiling your mash (grains)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T19:00:09.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16631" CreationDate="2015-12-09T22:08:01.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its not going to turn out the same.  It will taste like a dark Amber, but it might not be roasty enough to taste like a stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When working with extract recipes its best to use plain lightly colored extracts and then use specialty malts to drive the beer into the style you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a fairly dated recipe.  I suspect since its posting more people have moved on to just using lighter extracts with specialty grains for more control and fresher taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T22:08:01.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11826" CreationDate="2015-12-10T07:08:03.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A different method is to bottle with additional sugar then pasteurize the bottles after they have carbonated but before too much sugar is consumed and the pressure gets too high inside the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8399" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T07:08:03.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14656" CreationDate="2015-12-10T10:46:06.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Pepi noted in the comments it would take a serious infection to be noticeable in 24 hours (Just think how long it takes yeast to get going and that is supplied into fermentable at a huge number of cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost I recommend moving to an acid based no-rise sanitiser. Starsan is the common brand but other unbranded and just as good alternatives are available. Moving to exclusively using that kind of sanitiser changed my brewing forever, it has been 100% reliable and has no residual taste. With that kind you can make up a small amount (500ml) and roll it around your fermentor so all surfaces are covered, after a short while let it drain and you can be pretty confident its free of contaminates. It also removes post rinsing with tap water that &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be adding anything back to the fermentor / bottle after all your hard work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12024" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T10:46:06.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6371" CreationDate="2015-12-10T17:05:55.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not likely.  The presence of chloramine should not impact the reliability or speed of fermentation.  The primary reason you want to avoid chloramine is if you are mashing or steeping grains (not just using extract) it will react with compounds present in the grain and produce precursors that will yield harsh band-aid or medicinal flavors in the fermented beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2366" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T17:05:55.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16667" CreationDate="2015-12-10T18:06:00.673" Score="2" ViewCount="4577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see there are other keg-foaming questions on here, but they seem to usually be related to commercial kegs or have answers that I've tried (hastily). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a keg of homebrew brown ale and a brand new 2-tap Edgestar Kegerator which has a roughly 1ft tall stainless steel tower. We upgraded the hardware on the kegerator to have a manifold between the two CO2 lines as well as threaded disconnects to support either corny keg (ball lock) connectors or commercial kegs. The kegerator has been cold since Monday, and the keg was chilling for 24 hours on Monday/Tuesday in the kegerator before we started force carbonating it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are force-carbing it because we have a holiday party on Friday (tomorrow!) and we want to have it ready by then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding various techniques for force-carbing, we ended up going with 20psi for one day and 30psi for another day, with rocking the keg every couple hours in between, before letting the CO2 out of the head space in the keg and getting it back down to 10psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We now have the liquid line connected, and nothing but foam is coming out, pint after pint. The beer itself, once the foam fades, is very flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what other people have suggested to fix that I've already confirmed are not a problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get it cold - yep, the keg and the beer coming out of it are cold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use 3/16&quot; ID tubing - it already came with that&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the lines are cold - they are, and the faucet itself gets cold once it starts flowing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the lines are long enough - they are about 3', which according to the L = (P - (H x .5) - 1) / R formula they are more than long enough for 10psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the lines - these are clean, brand-new lines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the lines don't dip below the top of the keg - they're currently spooled up on top of the keg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on other answers and other websites, here's what I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setting the regulator to zero, clearing CO2 from keg, then slowing raising it back up - no luck at 5, 8, 10, or 12 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank up the pressure to 10-12psi directly after clearing CO2 from keg - no luck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there anything I can do to get this ready for tomorrow evening? Is it undercarbonated (since it tastes flat) and the pressure is wrong for pushing it out, or is it overcarbonated and the flat taste is because of the foam? Do I really need to by a tower cooler fan to blow the cold air up into the tower? Or is there no hope for having it ready by tomorrow and we just need to let it sit at 10psi for 2 weeks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T02:11:50.630" Title="Force-carbonated Homebrew Keg Foaming" Tags="|keg|corny-keg|foam|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-11T03:46:29.423" Score="1" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working on a pomagranate mead that has been fermenting for 3 weeks. I just racked it for the first time today and I tried a some, it was super sour... anyone know if this is normal and if it will go away and have the original pomagranate taste back. Also what might of caused this, did my pomagranate mead go bad or something&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12899" LastEditorUserId="12899" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T13:30:48.963" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T00:17:25.233" Title="Pomagranate mead sour" Tags="|fermentation|taste|sour|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16648" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-11T03:51:50.000" Score="1" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a new brewer and I want to brew a red wine. Anyone have a good red wine recipie that's easy to make and tastes good? I don't want to buy a kit and I want to use grapes found in the grocery store. I've tried twice to make mead and  it hasn't turned out so I've decided to go to wine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12899" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T03:12:52.823" Title="Red wine recipies" Tags="|wine|recipe-formulation|red-wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16649" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T05:23:58.020" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T05:23:58.020" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T05:23:58.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16650" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T05:23:58.020" Score="0" Body="Beer that is intentionally tart or sour." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T15:15:49.920" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T15:15:49.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16651" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T05:26:25.347" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T05:26:25.347" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T05:26:25.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16652" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T05:26:25.347" Score="0" Body="The use of fruit as an adjunct." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T15:15:20.060" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T15:15:20.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16653" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T05:28:06.423" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T05:28:06.423" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T05:28:06.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16654" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T05:28:06.423" Score="0" Body="Questions pertaining to the caution or concerns of someone new to home-brewing." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T15:16:03.420" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T15:16:03.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16655" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T05:38:57.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because fermentation is anaerobic and oxidation can cause stalling effects in home brew, an airlock is often used allow the expulsion of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; created during fermentation while prohibiting the intake of fresh air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T15:18:26.333" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T15:18:26.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16656" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T05:38:57.570" Score="0" Body="A device used to prevent back flow of external air into the fermentor." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T12:31:02.533" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T12:31:02.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16657" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T05:52:58.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;By measuring the specific gravity before fermentation (original gravity or OG) and after fermentation (final gravity or FG) one can estimate the alcohol concentration of the final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between the OG and FG can be used as an estimate of the amount of sugars converted to alcohol.  This can then be use to calculate the alcohol by volume:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;%ABV = 132.715*(OG - FG)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T15:15:13.020" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T15:15:13.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16658" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T05:52:58.280" Score="0" Body="A device used to the measure the specific gravity of a liquid." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T12:30:04.180" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T12:30:04.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16659" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T06:00:56.567" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T06:00:56.567" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T06:00:56.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16660" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T06:00:56.567" Score="0" Body="A lactic acid-producing bacteria that can be the culprit of infections as well as an intended ingredient in various beer styles." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T21:25:35.847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T21:25:35.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2015-12-11T10:52:30.957" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never had a beer ferment out in 3 days or even a week, mine take typically about 2 months regardless of time of year or beer type. I am not sure if anyone else has this going on, my beers are clear once kegged and appreciated by all who drink it. When I started brewing I realised it was a patience game, I have 7 30Litre fermenters and 1 60Litre fermenter. I either brew from kits, or from tins of malt extract and boil adding 4 hop additions; 1 at beginning; 1 at 40 mins; 1 at 50 mins and 1 at 55 mins. Either way they sit in primary for a minimum of 2 months before being bottled or kegged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13036" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T10:52:30.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1832" CreationDate="2015-12-11T11:00:07.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done this in the past, it was with a low temp lager yeast. The fermenting process remains sterile if you sterilise properly to start with, so if you siphon the wort off the yeast with sterile equipment and the add fresh wort at the right temperature to that same yeast then there should be no need to remove the yeast and resanitise the fermenter. Also if you go for an expensive yeast strain then it should reward you with several good brews, correct me if I am wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13036" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T11:00:07.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16646" CreationDate="2015-12-11T11:08:25.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I force carb at 45 psi for 48 hours, if foamy, I turn the gas tap off and let the gas in the keg pump out the beer. You may have a leak between the keg poat and the beer tap or the beer out post might be letting a little air into the mix. Just a few ideas, I have a version of this problem sometimes but my beer will stay fizzy after the foam settles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13036" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T11:08:25.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16648" CreationDate="2015-12-11T12:04:23.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recipe:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Grape Juice&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making wine is more about process than recipe. With the exception of quality ingredients.  Standard table grapes don't really make decent wine.  This becomes incredibly apparent when you actually taste the juice from a true wine grape.  I've dabbled in some wine making all from kits of different grape musts.  When you taste the juice/must from a wine grape it will blow your mind.&#xA;What I am saying is that if you want to make wine don't cast off the kits.  The starting material is pretty important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T12:04:23.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16648" CreationDate="2015-12-11T13:37:28.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried once to make a small quantity of wine from grapes I found in a grocery store.  I had big hopes because they got a type of grapes that looked a lot like wine grapes (very dark and small).  Even thought my process was good (already made wine from wine grapes), the end result was not good.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So that means the grapes really need to be wine grapes.  Make an extra effort to find some (web/importation).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An other option is to mix some other fruits.  I once made something very good with raspberries, sugar and vodka.  I fermented the raspberries with sugar, and before the end of fermentation, I added the vodka just to kill the yeast. This gives a fortified wine with just a bit of residual sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T13:37:28.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16647" CreationDate="2015-12-12T00:17:25.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of two reasons why your mead is sour:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.foodscience.caes.uga.edu/extension/documents/fdaapproximatephoffoodslacf-phs.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pomegranate juice is sour&lt;/a&gt;, with a pH of around 3.0. Assuming you've made 1 gallon batch, 16oz of pomegranate juice is enough to be noticeably tart. 16 oz of a pH 3.0 liquid diluted to 1 gallon &lt;a href=&quot;http://rechneronline.de/chemie-rechner/ph-dilution.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yields a pH&lt;/a&gt; of around 3.9 which, without any sugar to balance the acid, would taste quite sour.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your mead was infected by acetobacter while fermenting. There's a group of bacteria called acetobacter that produce acid. They are responsible for sour pickles, sauerkraut, and vinegar. If this is the case, your mead would have a vinegar smell and taste.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bet is that you don't have an infection; it's just the natural sourness of the pomegranate juice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T00:17:25.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16646" CreationDate="2015-12-13T13:03:47.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you completely purge the keg of CO2 and let it sit for 10minutes and the beer pushes itself out with the regulator shut off then the beer is potentially over carbonated. If the beer was overcarbed a simple burp of the keg and setting to 10PSI doesn't fix it.  There is still CO2 that has to come out.  Multiple burps and rests are required.  A spunding valve helps in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should always start with longer beer lines than you think you need.  You can always trim them back if the beer is over carbonating due to a higher than ideal serving pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think some of your math is wrong too, if when you calculated line length you rearranged this equation Pressure=length*resistance + 0.5Gravity.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It would rearrange to: (Pressure - 0.5G)/resistance=length&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most home based systems I have ignored the gravity piece. I use 2.2lbs of restriction per for 3/16th line.  So at 3 feet you only have 6.6 lbs of restriction.  At 10PSI that could be your problem.  I have seen 3/16th quoted at 3lb/ft which then makes it closer to 10PSI.  Here-in you can see why it makes sense to use longer lines and trim them later if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, make sure you don't have a kink in a line up in the tower.  This can blindly be a source of foaming that no equation or line length is going to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, unless you want to waste the first 2 pints or so every pour... the lines in the tower need to be cooled.  Or at least the lines very well insulated so once they are cool they stay cool during a serving session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T13:03:47.507" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:16:30.117" Score="3" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed a bunch of ciders, all starting at OG about 1.060.  I've always fermented with Safale S-04.  2 packets for 5-6 gallons of cider.  Usually ferments for about 7-10 days.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm now making a cider with an OG of 1.087.  I pitched the same 2 packets of yeast.  There was active fermentation at about 65F for over 1 week, starting 11/23/2015.  Sometime later, it slowed down and I figured it was nearly complete at 62F.  Current gravity on 12/13/2015 is 1.050!  I'm wondering if the S-04 is not going to cut it for this high gravity cider.  I'm considering pitching champagne yeast or Wyeast 4766 (which I've just discovered now).  Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13042" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T13:15:36.987" Title="Cider fermentation stopped (or very slow)" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:51:23.707" Score="0" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been placing my lager wort in the fridge overnight to get down to my desired pitch temp. This time I opened the fridge to see my airlock bubbling... I understand about possibility of contamination, I always leave my hydrometer out and covered as a type contamination test, and no activity there. My assumption is the cooling wort would create a low pressure atmosphere, so why would it be bubbling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T13:46:19.467" Title="Why is my pre yeast pitch lager bubbling in the fridge?" Tags="|lager|airlock|contamination|pitching|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16670" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-14T10:37:27.377" Score="7" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which ingredients used in the making of beer lead to a head that is retained, as compared to other carbonated alcoholic drinks (cider, champagne) which generally have zero head?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interesting in adding a nice head to some non-beer drinks and am wondering what I might use to do this, which wouldn't add an overly strong beery flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T08:15:35.690" Title="What causes head retention?" Tags="|head-retention|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16668" CreationDate="2015-12-14T13:15:36.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;62F is a little low for S-04.  Seeing how you already had some fermentation and yeast activity at the lower temp, ramping the temp up to 68F or 70F would be fine and I wouldn't expect any flavor issues at this point.  Things should get moving again once the temp is up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not once its warmed up (not before)  you could go in with a sanitize racking cane and rouse the yeast too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T13:15:36.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16670" CreationDate="2015-12-14T13:19:25.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Proteins are what make head/foam.  When I make cider I generally add some dry malt extract (&amp;lt;10% of total fermentables).  This helps with some residual sweetness by holding up the final gravity some.  I have also noticed slight increase in head retention vs other ciders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if you want to go that route, but it works for me.  I don't know if there is any other foam positive proteins sources you could add.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T13:19:25.777" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16670" CreationDate="2015-12-14T16:49:29.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way to add to head retention is to pressurize your drink with nitrogen rather than CO2, think Guiness. This aides head retention as N2 does not dissolve as easily as  CO2 in water therefore leads to a longer lasting tighter foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try and mash some wheat to avoid the malty beer flavour if this is your concern. Using torrified wheat should allow you to extract the proteins you'd want for head retention, while avoiding the beer flavour. I often add 5% torrified wheat to get a nice strong head, but adding more than 15% and it is likely you will have difficulty clearing your final drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another think that can destroy head formation, even if you have included some wheat or barley malts, is the extraction of fatty acids into the must/wort, minimizing the extraction of these into your solution. In mashes, minimise stirring etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T16:49:29.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16670" CreationDate="2015-12-15T08:15:35.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The head in beer is a result of the proteins and the alpha acids from the hops combining to form complexes that create the structure needed to maintain the head of foam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to add a small amount of hop oil and reduce other bittering components so the taste isn't adversely affected, and is still balanced by any sweetness in the beverage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your beverage has little protein, then adding some protein whey (either flavored or unflavored) will provide the protein required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experimentation will be needed here to get the right balance of ingredients to get the result required without affecting the taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T08:15:35.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10400" CreationDate="2015-12-15T15:11:47.080" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;can you check below url , it has 5 calculators php,js &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/coolfuturefbiagent/calculators&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://github.com/coolfuturefbiagent/calculators&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13047" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T15:11:47.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7924" CreationDate="2015-12-15T15:14:23.507" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can check below link for source codes of bew calculatos &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/coolfuturefbiagent/calculators&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://github.com/coolfuturefbiagent/calculators&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13047" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T15:14:23.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16492" CreationDate="2015-12-15T21:49:43.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;At 10 °C and 5.6 atm, a cooled champagne bottle (V = 0.75 L) would contain ca. 9.5 g of dissolved carbon dioxide (Table 2) [3]. Once the bottle is opened the CO2 pressure falls to at most 1 atm. Solubility considerations dictate that at 10 °C no more than 1.7 g will remain dissolved, so roughly 8 g of CO2 must suddenly be set free. This quantity of CO2 corresponds to a gas volume of 4 L — more than five times the volume of the bottle.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chemistryviews.org/details/ezine/889289/Sparkling_Wine_Champagne__Co__Part_2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chemistryviews.org/details/ezine/889289/Sparkling_Wine_Champagne__Co__Part_2.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This suggests that Champagne has roughly 6.3 volumes of CO2. 4 volumes should give a good POP and nice carbonation, but for the full Champagne effect you need to be up around 6-6.5, this will have to be in Champagne bottles or you will likely return one day to exploding bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T21:49:43.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15677" CreationDate="2015-12-15T21:59:42.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The article linked here suggests getting very young walnuts before you have to shell them; and instead quartering the young walnuts. They also suggest here leaving it 40 days, 52 days or 3 months; so, leaving at least 40 days seems to be a cunning plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamrubel.com/delicous-vin-de-noix/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.williamrubel.com/delicous-vin-de-noix/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T21:59:42.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15924" CreationDate="2015-12-15T22:21:06.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A recipe for damson (sweet) wine from C.J.J. Berry - First Steps in Winemaking, I have not made this wine, but the ones I have made were excellent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.75Kg Damsons;&#xA;0.25kg barley (crushed);&#xA;1.75Kg Sugar;&#xA;4.5l   Water;&#xA;Pectic Enzyme;&#xA;Yeast and Yeast Nutrient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stone and cut up fruit, place damsons and barley in a pan and pour over boiling water, cover and leave for 4 days; add pectin when cool, stir daily.&#xA;Strain into fermenter and add yeast (preferably Burgundy wine yeast) and yeast nutrient. Rack when it drops clear. Only bottle when fermentation is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I made the plum wine to a similar recipe I couldn't be bothered waiting for the fruit to sit for 4 days, so I froze the stoned and diced fruit; to burst the cell walls and release the sugar and flavour. Then added boiling water to the frozen block, and put on the hob for 5 min. Then when it cooled to 35C added the pectin, left it over night and strained into  fermenter and added yeast. This seemed to get most of the essence out of the fruit without the wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T22:21:06.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16646" CreationDate="2015-12-16T14:18:24.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Make sure the lines are long enough - they are about 3', which according to the L = (P - (H x .5) - 1) / R formula they are more than long enough for 10psi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3' is not long enough. There are a few different equations for that, but I've never ended up much less than 6-7' for a corny keg, and some equations get you closer to 10. I switched from ~3' to 6' recently and it made a huge difference, especially after about 3 weeks, where in my setup (always 10psi) they would start to get super foamy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this isn't going to make your beer flat, just foamy. It sounds like the CO2 is not in solution. (Need more time, more pressure, more rocking...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T14:18:24.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16771" CreationDate="2015-12-16T12:06:15.347" Score="5" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to the world of the craft beer, and new to this community too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm developing my first liters of beer, and so far, I have obtained results that have fascinated me! I think i will never gonna buy another beer! &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;At the moment i am using the American Pale ale recipe&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess like many of you, these first elaborations are trial and error, and in the second batch (of 40lts) &lt;strong&gt;I had a problem: one of the fermentation tanks does not close properly&lt;/strong&gt;, therefore &lt;strong&gt;the airlock doesnt  work very well&lt;/strong&gt;, say that no air is in excess, but &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not sealed&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This can spoil the production of this tank?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have to have a different treatment with the beer of this tank?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the beer be too rusty ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13051" OwnerDisplayName="melli-182" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T12:34:07.947" Title="Problems with sealing fermentation tank" Tags="|ale|fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16681" CreationDate="2015-12-17T13:42:33.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be bad for the beer that's in there now. If fermentation vessel doesn't have a good seal the beer could be contaminated. It's not guaranteed to spoil though, it might turn out ok. It is also possible that if you mess with the seal now, you could accidentally introduce contamination that wouldn't have taken hold otherwise. Without knowing more of the specifics, I don't know if I would recommend messing with it to try and get a better seal or not. You'll have to decide if you want to try and get a better seal now, or wait until next time. Regardless of what you do, this beer has a much higher chance of contamination than an ideal situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to treat this beer too much differently. Let it ferment until it reaches your final gravity and bottle it. Try a little bit early on and see how it's shaping up. Brew Your Own provides a good article on &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/3134-beer-spoilage-advanced-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;contamination and spoilage&lt;/a&gt;. If it is contaminated then you'll deal with it, but there's not much point in worrying too much about it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing, if you have a keg, or a secondary vessel I would suggest not using it. If this batch has picked up some contaminate you could introduce that to your other equipment and make problems for yourself in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T13:42:33.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16681" CreationDate="2015-12-18T04:33:38.703" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry so much. Put some sanitized foil over the top and wrap with a rubber band. If the beer is chilled to pitching temp before being transferred to the fermenter, air locks are absolutely unnecessary to keep beer from being contaminated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastEditorUserId="12317" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T01:48:45.183" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T01:48:45.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16646" CreationDate="2015-12-18T20:03:02.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is good advice in the other answers, but I would like to add one more solution: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.perlick.com/bar-beverage-equipment/beverage-dispensing/tapping-hardwarecomponents/beer-faucets/650ss/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Perlick forward sealing flow control faucets&quot;&gt;Perlick forward sealing flow control faucets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought these for my kegerator because I got tired of the rear-sealing faucets I had gumming up over time, and I found the flow control faucets on sale for the same price as the standard ones. I recently used them with a couple of commercial kegs, and they worked great with adjusting the flow to make the initially foamy beer pour better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T20:03:02.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14883" CreationDate="2015-12-18T23:35:38.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several different homebrewing filters out there. 1 micron and 3 micron filters are most typical. It will dramatically reduce the quantity of yeast getting passed to the bottle so you may want to pitch some krausen with your priming sugar if you are going to ferment in the bottle.  Not too sure if it really makes sense to filter if you are going to do bottle fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13063" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T23:35:38.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-18T23:45:04.750" Score="5" ViewCount="658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be adding half a pound of cacao nibs to my stout here in a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the beer will be almost fully fermented at that point is it necessary for me to sanitize the nibs before adding them?  If so, can someone please provide me with some advice on how best to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13063" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T12:26:17.367" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T00:33:46.963" Title="Do I need to sanitize my cacao nibs?" Tags="|fermentation|sanitation|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16686" CreationDate="2015-12-19T01:50:22.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, just toss them in there. The beer is nearing the end of fermentation and will have a sufficiently inhospitable environment for any contaminants to flourish. The acidity, alcohol, and yeast itself are enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, keep in mind that anything you do at home is merely sanitization, not true sterilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12018" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T01:50:22.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16686" CreationDate="2015-12-19T01:55:38.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to be really safe you could soak it in vodka or moonshine to kill any germs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part you should be fine though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13064" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T02:57:13.073" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T02:57:13.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10400" CreationDate="2015-12-19T20:18:23.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bunch of good libraries &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/brewerwall&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;from Brewerwall&lt;/a&gt;. Heard about this on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://hb.chat/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;homebrewchat&lt;/a&gt; slack channel, you should join :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6562" LastEditorUserId="6562" LastEditDate="2015-12-19T20:31:26.770" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T20:31:26.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T02:47:33.223" Score="2" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing my first kit beer. I want to set aside one gallon and make a high ABV batch. I am brewing a honey wheat and adding jalapeño. How would I make the higher ABV and what would the technical name be? Imperial witbier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13069" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T15:13:27.277" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T09:59:26.807" Title="Making a portion of a batch higher ABV" Tags="|first-time-brewer|high-gravity|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16690" CreationDate="2015-12-21T03:33:15.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're doing a partial boil (e.g. boiling 3 gallons and adding water to reach a target 5 gallons), you could just take a gallon post-boil and a proportional amount of water to the larger batch (i.e. two thirds of the additional 2 gallons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you're targeting a specific ABV it may be more complicated to calculate but you could use a similar method with a different boil size to achieve a desired original gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the name I think it would depend somewhat on the ABV but imperial witbier seems reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T03:33:15.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3144" CreationDate="2015-12-21T16:05:36.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keg most of my beer, but the tabs work great for me because sometimes I like to pull a few bombers before kegging this way I do not have to prime a full batch! If you plan on full batch bottling I think sugar is more consistent and easier to measure carbonation per beer style,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13071" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T16:05:36.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16703" CreationDate="2015-12-22T03:52:18.697" Score="6" ViewCount="1340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up with about a pound of CBW Sparkling Amber DME leftover.  I figured it might be worth keeping around so I put it in a plastic bag and tried to get as much air out as a could.  Since then I've left it in a box in at roughly room temperature (probably a little lower).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering adding some or all of it to an upcoming batch but hesitated when I saw that the Briess &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets/PDFs/Briess_PISB_CBWSparklingAmberDME.pdf&quot;&gt;product information sheet&lt;/a&gt; mentioned that &quot;Storing opened bags is not recommended.&quot;  I'm hoping this may not apply to transferring it to a sealable bag since it seems that moisture and oxidation are the biggest factors for DME going bad, but for all I know I've potentially already over-exposed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will have been stored about a month and would contribute about 5-10% of the sugars depending on the amount I use.  Would this re-packaged DME be worth using in a separate batch?  I'm thinking worst case scenario I could save it to use for a starter or something in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if it is not worth using, is there some other way I could have stored it to help it keep or is saving leftover malt basically just a lost cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T04:04:54.713" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T15:51:24.587" Title="Storing and using leftover DME" Tags="|storage|dme|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16693" CreationDate="2015-12-22T13:52:53.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If stored properly (no humidity and at room temperature or lower) the DME should preserve itself at least for a year.  It has been discussed before:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4384/how-long-will-an-extract-kit-stay-good?rq=1&quot;&gt;How long will an extract kit stay good?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, if the seal was good, after a month it should still be fresh and you can use it without concerns...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers will mention that &quot;Storing opened bags is not recommended&quot; but it is a way to protect themselves against complaints from people who do not use a good resealable bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T13:52:53.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2015-12-22T14:05:24.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used white labs wlp775 liquid yeast with costco apple juice 6 gallons.  I added 4 cups white table sugar 2 tablespoons of yeast nutrient. cider came out good light amber color very clear nice apple taste little dry (not dry like a wine) and sweet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13073" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T14:05:24.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16697" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-22T21:53:28.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry malt extract is a form of dehydrated wort containing fermentable sugars and other compounds extracted from malted grains.  It is used for producing wort as well as a general source of sugars for bottle-conditioning, making yeast starters, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T15:14:42.133" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T15:14:42.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16698" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-22T21:53:28.757" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the use of dry malt extract in homebrewing." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T17:18:14.437" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:18:14.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16699" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-22T21:56:06.650" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T21:56:06.650" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T21:56:06.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16700" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-22T21:56:06.650" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to the storage of beer, cider, wine, etc. as well as storage of the ingredients that go into producing them." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T17:18:22.640" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:18:22.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16701" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-22T22:57:39.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Liquid malt extract is a syrup that is effectively a concentrated wort.  It contains sugars and other compounds extracted from malts along with water.  It typically used to create a larger volume of wort or add additional malt compounds to a batch of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T17:18:05.767" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:18:05.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16702" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-22T22:57:39.223" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the use of liquid malt extract in homebrewing." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T17:18:29.553" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:18:29.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16693" CreationDate="2015-12-23T00:14:34.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bulk prime with DME, so it takes me 3 to 6 months to use a 1kg bag. I reseal the bag quickly, and place it in an airtight plastic container after pouring out the amount I require. No observable deterioration takes place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T00:14:34.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16556" CreationDate="2015-12-24T19:51:18.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;could be a contaminated batch that might be the bitterness.. im terrible at brewing beer only this batch out of six has been any good.. flat and clear or fizzy and cloudy... &#xA;iv had the problem of bitterness in the beer when i was not willing to drink it. only had 3-4L then didn`t like it so left it to  go bad.  timing seems to be the key, also heating pad or belt.. proper cleaning of equipment and bottles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;heating pad while fermenting for 5days cool for 2days bottle and prime and back on the heating pad for 5-10 day then store in cold dark place like the fridge   remember 18c is perfect for germs to multiple so keep it clean.. anything in with the beer will be there for the life of the beer &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13081" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T19:51:18.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-25T20:32:30.360" Score="2" ViewCount="421" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a reverse osmosis and deionization unit that filters my tap water from 450PPM TDS to 0 PPM TDS. I have had it for about 3 months and my TDS reader is now creeping up to 3 PPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering waiting until the TDS reader gave 10PPM to determine the amount of chlorine it in, and then decide on that result whether I should purchase new filters at 10 PPM every time in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I knew at what PPM of chloride causes adverse affects on the homebrew, I would be able to better estimate when I need to buy replacement filters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T02:29:13.817" Title="At what PPM does Chlorine become unnaceptable to use as water in brewing?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-25T20:35:53.733" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a reverse osmosis and deionization unit that is able to filter my 450 PPM TDS tap water down to 0 PPM TDS. It has been about three months, and my TDS reader now gives 3 PPM TDS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do water filters decay at a linear rate for the various compounds it filters out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if my TDS reader read 10 PPM, and I was to analyze a sample of water at Ward Labs which told me that my water contained 2 PPM of Sodium, 1PPM of Chlorine, and 7 PPM of CaCO3, could I safely assume that at 100 PPM TDS, my water would contain 20 PPM Na, 10 PPM Cl, and 70 PPM CaCO3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T09:36:06.547" Title="Do water filters decay at a linear rate for the various chemicals it filters?" Tags="|water|water-filtration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-18T00:47:41.537" Score="1" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the maximum alcohol content of Gayelord Hauser brewers yeast? I have seen it at the grocery store and am wondering what I can do with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="jecks" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:53:06.620" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:53:06.620" Title="Gayelord Hauser brewers yeast" Tags="|yeast|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16708" CreationDate="2015-11-22T21:41:16.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe nutritional supplement yeast will ferment because it is inactive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" OwnerDisplayName="Dave" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T21:41:16.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16708" CreationDate="2015-12-26T16:13:48.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Supplements are not good ingredients as they are processed. Rather buy real yeast and brew proper beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;homebrew.stackexchange.com is more appropriate for this type of question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" OwnerDisplayName="Atron Seige" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T16:13:48.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16712" CreationDate="2015-12-26T22:49:14.290" Score="1" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some relatives recently gave me a 6-gallon aluminum pot that they no longer wanted. The pot was used to make homemade lotion. I've been needing a bigger brew pot, but money has been tight. I'm excited to get one for free!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've washed the pot many time and also boiled water in it with various combinations of cheap dish soap, vinegar, and a pinch of salt. (This was how I was advised to clean it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not concerned about metallic tastes in the wort, but I'm unsure what impact the lotion will have on it. Do you guys think this pot will be OK for brewing? Or cooking in general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8450" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T00:01:34.600" Title="Brewing in former lotion pot" Tags="|wort|cleaning|boil-kettle|brewpot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16711" CreationDate="2015-12-27T00:01:34.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the cleaning you gave it will be good. But if not, then at most your first beer might have a flat head from fatty deposits that will be removed by the acidic wort on your first brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So definitely use it, you'll be fine in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T00:01:34.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16715" CreationDate="2015-12-27T13:51:47.107" Score="3" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;When producing beers that must have a &quot;clean&quot; / &quot;neutral&quot; flavor like lagers, usually the fermenting temperature is low to prevent off-flavors to show. But then, is recomended to apply a diacetyl rest in order to reduce the buttery, butterscotch-like flavor to beer that the diacetyl provide. Here's the part I don't understand. You do a lager fermentation at lower temperatures to prevent off-flavors, but to do a diacetyl rest you &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;raise&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the temperature from  about 50° to 55° F to 65° to 68° F. What's the explanation for that? Isn't raising the temperature causes the yeast to produce undesired flavors to the beer? I don't get it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T17:39:25.037" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:39:25.037" Title="Question about the diacetyl rest process" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16714" CreationDate="2015-12-27T17:26:30.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bad esters are made during growth phase and early fermentation, it's only at the end of primary fermentation that you do your diacetyl rest, after the risks of undesirable esters has past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:26:30.693" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16740" CreationDate="2015-12-27T20:12:30.650" Score="4" ViewCount="4779" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brand new to home-brewing. Currently making 1 gal small batches. I see a lot of recipes that call for either corn sugar or cane sugar, with honey as another alternative. How does corn sugar affect the beer vs cane sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7996" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T13:33:01.997" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T13:33:01.997" Title="How does corn sugar affect the beer vs cane sugar?" Tags="|techniques|sugar|priming-sugar|small-batch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16716" CreationDate="2015-12-27T21:39:28.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short corn sugar is more similar to the sugars in the wort so it's easy for the yeast to consume both. Other sugars are harder or easier for the yeast to consume and come with their own issues. Typically corn sugar is preferred.   As adjuct and priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T04:25:08.670" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T04:25:08.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16610" CreationDate="2015-12-27T21:52:19.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;The New Cider Maker's Handbook&quot; by Claude Jolicoeur is a very in depth book covering everything from orchards, mills, and presses, to a profile on varietals and an extensive look at the fermentation process.  I highly recommend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12698" LastEditorUserId="12698" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T18:43:54.030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T18:43:54.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2015-12-27T21:54:30.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having stellar results for the last 2 years with White Labs Sweet Wine/Mead Yeast.  It leaves it semi-dry and plenty of fruit flavor.  I have found it to produce good young and aged product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12698" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T21:54:30.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16072" CreationDate="2015-12-27T21:56:47.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check with SF Brewcraft to see if they have anything or if they could place a special order for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12698" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T21:56:47.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-27T22:33:12.980" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a white wine that finished fermenting over 2 weeks ago, I racked into a 2nd demi through a muslin filter to be sure i dont have any larger bits floating around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added some clearing gel, and the wine did get less &quot;thick&quot; than it was, but was still not close to being clear, so 3 days ago, i racked a 2nd time into another demi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, i have the wine in a 3rd demi, no sediment at all, but, the top 1cm or so of the 1gal demi is completely clear, but below that, haze/slightly opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a sign that it is clearing and i should just let gravity take its course, or have i messed something up here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12922" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T19:08:58.717" Title="Wine only partly clearred" Tags="|wine|racking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16686" CreationDate="2015-12-28T00:33:46.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though not relevant in your particular situation, consider also using them in your initial boil. It will both steep the cocoa beans and ensure that they are sanitary. You could steep them in a grain (cloth) bag or just mechanically filter as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7873" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T00:33:46.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16721" CreationDate="2015-12-28T00:37:30.810" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Relax Don't Worry Have Homebrew.&#xA;I'm sure time and gravity will clear it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T00:37:30.810" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15576" CreationDate="2015-12-28T00:44:12.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wine vinegar? If the acetobacter was still alive it could be eating up the new alcohol, making more acid and maybe the floculant stuff too. Idk, just a thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, may not have caught a wild yeast, and there is no alcohol, and any number of organisms can be at play. Did it carbonate? Did you take OG / FG readings to get an ABV?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T00:54:43.390" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T00:54:43.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16638" CreationDate="2015-12-28T01:58:31.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your friend is doing a decoction ( a way of stepping up the mash temp by boiling some of the grist then adding it back to the mash) this also adds some classic characters to styles, like dopplebock. Boiling grain is safe from tannis since it is only done once the mash is below 6.0 pH. Tannin extraction needs two things temp above 170° and a pH higher than 6.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the hops in the mash, it's simular to first wort hopping. Some Pliny clone recipies I've seen call for some of hops in the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T01:58:31.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16646" CreationDate="2015-12-28T02:11:50.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your regulator, make sure it's actually reading &quot;PSI&quot;. I've seen some people try to use welding co2 regulators, which are in Liters Per Minute &quot;LPM&quot;, and are flow regulators not pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T02:11:50.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16705" CreationDate="2015-12-28T02:29:13.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;TDS meter won't detect chlorine even at swimming pool levels. Total Disolved Solids are your salts, metals, minerals. RO systems do strip the chlorine though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RO water even with 10ppm tds will have no discernable flavor in beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But keep in mind, many beer styles like salts. RO IS always a good start for any water profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chlorine is volatile so leave it in an open container a couple days to get rid of chlorine if you don't have a filter system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T02:29:13.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-28T14:25:17.713" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing my first beer from scratch soon. I've been assisting a friend of mine with making beers before. I've also searched on the internet on the steps involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I've noticed is that there are seemingly different ways and steps for mashing. I've seen some beers use different malts mixed together others just use a single one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also come across different ways of mashing, some pour water in a an isolated container and then add the malt and mix it. After that they tap the liquid out through a type of filter and bring it to a boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend on the other hand would put the mash in a kettle and keep the temperature exactly at the right level while stirring. He would also re-pour water in the mash until all the sugars were out (he measured the gravity to see if it was good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm living in Singapore, where the ambient temperature is about 30 degrees, so I've been looking what yeasts would thrive best in this climate. In the end I settled for a yeast (wyeast 3724) which is able to handle these temperatures and combine it with cascade and centential hops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know now is what some good mix would be for the mash and how I should proceed in determining what the gravity should be. Do I also add additional sugars or honey? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T14:45:44.980" Title="I'm going to do my first IPA soon, how do I do my mashing?" Tags="|mash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16728" CreationDate="2015-12-28T14:45:44.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most beers do not need anything more than a single-infusion mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is possible to direct-fire a mash tun and attempt to use constant stirring to keep the temperature even and not scorch the grain, you're going to find it hard. Compute a good target strike temperature to hit your desired mash temperature, and try to insulate your mash vessel, instead. With high ambient temps, you should have an easy time of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common &quot;batch&quot; mashing process is to do a single-infusion mash with about 1/3-1/2 of your total liquor volume, drain off that liquor, then add the remainder of water and drain that &quot;sparge&quot; liquor off into the brew kettle. There are plenty of resources about how to conduct a mash, here and otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend 3724 for an IPA. There is a class of &quot;belgian/white IPA&quot; that's sprung up in the last few years, but I don't think they're very good, personally. In particular, belgian yeast character clashes with the characteristic hops found in IPAs. Again, this is my personal opinion, you might like it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously investigate options for controlling your fermentation temperature, if you can. 30°C is too high for most every style and yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have sufficient grain and reasonable mash efficiency, you should not need to add any additional sugars to reach your desired original gravity. For your first all-grain brew, you might want to have some sugar (or malt extract) on hand, just in case you miss your OG, though.  Another reason to add simple sugars is to get a more complete fermentation and/or a &quot;drier&quot; beer, as simple sugars are nearly entirely fermentable; malt sugars are only partially so. I would not recommend this for an IPA, or your first attempts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should determine your desired original gravity based on the style and strength of beer that you want to brew; common OGs for an IPA are going to be in the 1.055-1.070 range. You should measure your original gravity with either a hydrometer or a refractometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T14:45:44.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14824" CreationDate="2015-12-28T16:00:01.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This peaked my interest awhile back, there are a lot of articles of big breweries doing this Unicorn of brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've found it's really expensive to do right (without chemical color stripping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My research lead me to an experiment for extracting coffee flavor but not color. The trick is to basically rinse off the oils from ground coffee (espresso fine grind) using ice water. I did this with a French press using 7.0 pH RO water. The result was clear coffee flavored water. After a successful sample, I left the press over night to see the effects. In the morning it was SRM 20. So.... Cold rinse good, steeping up to room temp bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My estimate was it would take several pounds of coffee. As far as application I would do it with the finished cold uncarbonated beer, Randal style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect coco nibs would behave in a similar way, if racked on them they will leach color too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T16:00:01.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16706" CreationDate="2015-12-28T16:54:40.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;RO systems are basically a several filter system under pressure that dumps concentrated waste water, producing a couple gallons of low TDS water in 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As filters do their job eventually some TDS start comming through. Each RO system has a recommended replacement &quot;time&quot; but that assumes use of all the produced water each day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My under the counter unit has been on the original filters for over 3 years, manufacturer recommends replacing every three months, but since we only use it for coffee, cooking, Sun tea etc we rarely use it to full capacity. After 3 years my TDS is 6ppm.  I won't replace the filters untill there is a noticeable taste resembling my tap water. With all that in mind my tap water is some of the best in the county and very drinkable unfiltered with no noticable chlorine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine if your water is heavily chlorinated, the oxidizing effects would degrade filter media at a faster rate than I experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T16:54:40.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16693" CreationDate="2015-12-28T17:04:13.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;DME loves to suck up humidity and turn to a brick of sugar if it can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do is cut the corner off the DME bag. Using a large mouth plastic bottle (gatorade) cut the top off 1 inch from the cap. Remove the lid and stuff the cut corner of the DME bag up through and fold back. Replace the cap for a nice airtight seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I store the DME with my specialty grains in an air tight drum.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QAKwu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T15:51:24.587" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T15:51:24.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16669" CreationDate="2015-12-28T17:14:18.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In sort the gas in the fermenter has higher volume pressure than atmosphere in the fridge. This can only be two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The wort or gases were colder than the temperature of the fridge when the airlock was put on, and this is just expansion from temp increase.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is an organism or other chemical reaction generating gases.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind there are conflicting opinions if some sanitizers actually kill yeast like starsan for example. Starsan works by rupturing the cell walls of bacteria, yeast have rather strong cell walls in the microranisim world. It's possible that some yeast from the last fermentation in your fermenter was still there and triggered the prepitch fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T13:46:19.467" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T13:46:19.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16735" CreationDate="2015-12-29T00:14:37.147" Score="2" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a few experiences that lead me to suspect this. A few times I've stored a small portion of wort for priming with gyle, and each time I re-boiled the wort for a short period, 10 minutes or so, which I perceived as producing a tremendous amount of DMS that wasn't in the fermenting wort. Also, a couple of times, I've had to re-start a boil, due to equipment issues or running out of propane. Each time the finished beer had a lot of DMS, even when the total boil time was over 2 hours. My suspicion from purely empirical evidence is that each time wort is heated after being cooled, it needs a full hour (or 90 minutes for pilsner) of rolling boil to drive off DMS, even if it had been previously boiled. Is this how DMS works? I had always assumed before, once you had boiled it off, it was gone, but that doesn't seem to be the case from experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T22:16:50.110" Title="Is DMS created every time you heat wort?" Tags="|boil|dms|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16734" CreationDate="2015-12-29T02:38:50.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, DMS is formed every moment the wort is hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DMS is formed from heating of S-Methyl Methionine (SMM) that is found in all malts in different amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your boil burns off most of the DMS that was created during mash and preboil heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During boil DMS production is trumped by its evaporation, and it's 35-40 minute halflife depending on pH (why we have 90 min open boils, if it's allowed to condense and fall back in, you don't get rid of it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At flame out your wort will continue making DMS and DMSO until chilled. DMSO can't be boiled off as it's boil temp is much higher than water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So.. If you have a stalled boil DMSO may be your problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T04:23:41.060" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T04:23:41.060" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16773" CreationDate="2015-12-29T04:33:26.330" Score="2" ViewCount="900" Body="&lt;p&gt;Searching like crazy to find a mini refrigerator with a flat bottom. Any model will work, as I am new to this and only brewing 1 gallon batches. Ideally it would hold a 5gal carboy so that I do not need to shop for one again when I progress to larger batches in the future. Trying to prevent building a custom fermentation chamber until I progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every one I find seems to have the shelf on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks and happy brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7996" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T20:08:47.043" Title="Is anyone aware of a mini refrigerator model with a flat bottom for use as fermentation chamber?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|temperature|first-time-brewer|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16736" CreationDate="2015-12-29T12:58:34.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A keggarator is a good choice, if it's not in use for serving. I have an old BevAir it fits two 6g Itialian carboys nicely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a good back, deep freezers work nice too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as a flat bottom fridge, all of them I've seen converted usually have a DIY second bottom to make it level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you choose you will need to add a digital temp controller to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T12:58:34.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16580" CreationDate="2015-12-29T13:58:42.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you bottle do you add a yeast inhibitor like Camden / Potassium Metabisulfide? Or do you allow bottle conditioning to produce some carbonation? Both methods for still or carbonated wine have an impact on the finished flavor. Slightly more attenuated carbonation adds a little bite to flavor and dryer mouthfeel. Camden depletes oxygen to prevent further fermentaion, leaving it for the most part as the wine that is bottled but slightly smoother with the absence of O2 for a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T14:04:02.043" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T14:04:02.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16593" CreationDate="2015-12-29T14:15:38.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer is probably too late for your entry, but here it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BJCP guidlines don't specify a fermination type. Ale, Lager, &quot;wine yeasts&quot;, wild etc. for ciders.  So you should pick a category that best fits your ingredients but most importantly fits the aroma, appearance, flavor,  mouthfeel of the style as that is what you would be judged against. Though if your wild made a sour, I'm not sure it would be appropriate in anything but an experimental category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example.. I set out to brew an IPL, it didn't turn out as planned... It won two gold metals as a Helles Bock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T14:15:38.443" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16716" CreationDate="2015-12-29T15:43:05.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Corn sugar is a monosaccharide where cane sugar is a disaccharide. Both are entirely fermentable but the disaccharide must be cleaved first.  If your yeast are stressed they'll have a easier time with the monosaccharide.  Corn sugar monosaccharide is usually glucose.  There is some evidence that glucose fermentations produce higher ester levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All things being equal, unless carefully brewed side by side one would be hard pressed to taste the differences.  I find the yeast health situation to be the more important thing to keep in mind if adding sugar to a big beer late in its fermentation. In that case, I prefer monosaccharide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T15:43:05.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16721" CreationDate="2015-12-29T19:08:58.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The top layer being clear is indeed and indicator that the rest will likely drop as sediment. However because it is so fine and probably still in suspension in part due to Brownian motion, you need to be sure the Demi-John is undisturbed. Put it on a surface that doesn't shake as you walk past. Don't keep checking it all the time. Just let it be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end you may finally give up and use a dining agent and or filter, but it real behooves you to try to be patient and let it clear on its own if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T19:08:58.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16743" CreationDate="2015-12-30T02:33:16.130" Score="0" ViewCount="1573" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's my brief story:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bought a Mr. Beer kit and didn't have a clue what I was doing, and out of impatience would squeeze the fermentor to smell the brew, resulting in an infection. I now have cheap, crappy beer that tastes like a hard-miller cider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I got addicted to home brewing within 5 minutes and ordered a Deluxe kit from Northern Brewer prior to the crappy batch even finishing, with the 2 glass carboys. That time, I actually paid attention, sanitized, and did everything according to the instructions. I used an Irish Red Ale recipe kit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about 10 days (barely... barely any activity) I moved it to the secondary fermentor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today is 17 days into secondary, and I went to add some clearing drops and took a big sniff. I think... just maybe there's a very faint hint of cider/vinegar, but if it's there it's faint, and could also be insanely paranoid after my crappy 1st brew. I then popped the top of a Killian's Irish Red and maybe, just maybe... there's the same hint of that smell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose my question is, has anyone used this recipe or made this type of beer and experienced this faint smell? It's not bad... it's not strong, and keep in mind, it might not even be there. Paranoia is getting to me, and if this batch doesn't turn out good I'll try again, but most certainly be disappointed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to asking I googled and read countless explanations, and people are quick to say infection, but it's super super faint and might very well be the correct smell. Looking for real, simple, experienced it, been there and done it kinda' answer instead of a science book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate your help! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13103" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T11:43:28.000" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T15:24:54.420" Title="I can't differentiate between OCD or the smell of vinegar, and need some guidance" Tags="|fermentation|beer|secondary-fermentation|contamination|bacteria|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16742" CreationDate="2015-12-30T07:25:01.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cider / vinegar smell is normal, it is acetaldehyde and is a normal byproduct of fermentation. But it's a temporary byproduct, the yeast will consume it to recover NAD+ from NADH after all oxygen has been gone for a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I recall correctly, even acetobacter needs oxygen to actually make vinegar. So the problem is apparently oxygen more than contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your fermenter is sealed properly, and that you don't get oxygen into the beer when racking. The current preferred method to prevent oxygen at racking is: don't rack at all - it doesn't help the beer unless you need to keep it in the fermenter for more than a couple months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I your case, don't worry, but do bottle condition the beer (kegging, with artificial carbonation, would not help this). A little kick of sugar will wake up the yeast and get them to clean up the acetaldehyde.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T07:25:01.493" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2015-12-30T23:13:57.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Whirlpool&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave the hot and cold break behind. Use your whirlfloc and Irish moss properly. If you use them in boil and put all the hop trub in your fermentor you're just wasting space and limiting your final volume. Calculate your postboil volume to account for trub loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T16:01:27.647" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T16:01:27.647" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-12-30T23:13:57.053" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16507" CreationDate="2015-12-30T23:23:36.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question: in my experience, haze does not cause taste problems.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if it bugs you, that's a good enough reason to try to address the haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of juice did you use--specifically, was it pasteurized or heated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, you may be suffering from pectin haze.  You might be able to clear it up by getting some pectinase.  This is an enzyme that breaks down the pectin proteins and lets them settle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you've already bottled, but if not: Usual instructions call for pectinase to be added before fermentation but you might as well try adding it now, although it does take time to work.  And keep it in mind for future ciders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12286" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T23:23:36.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-01T17:30:13.443" Score="4" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are their any sailors here who also Brew beer and wine? That's not really the question though. My question is, under the conditions of a sea going vessel, is it possible to brew beer and wine and what extra steps need to be taken to make it successful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T18:17:54.620" Title="Brewing aboard a boat" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16748" CreationDate="2016-01-01T18:06:50.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting question. &#xA;I assume your only real challenge would be movement. If on a large vessel I don't see too much issue, small is a different story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure your boil kettles have ample room to not create a splash/spill issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentaion may have more challenges, yeast trub may not settle out very well. If there is splashing in the fermenter it may create pressure changes that render a conventional airlock useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a modified corney keg as fermentor with a 2 bar burp valve, this will naturally carbonate during fermination and be a safe fermentor for the vessel. Use a keg float modification to serve out of the fermentor keg.  Won't be the clearest beer, but if you cold crash you should stall any autolysis while enjoying your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T18:17:54.620" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T18:17:54.620" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16340" CreationDate="2016-01-01T20:17:33.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You usually should not need to use rice hulls. If you are keep torrified wheat or oats below 5% you'll be fine. When you go beyond 5% of the malt bill especially with oats I would advise adding some rice hulls, about 1/10 the amount of oats you are using eg for a pound (454g) of oats about 1.5-2oz (50g) of hulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has always worked well for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still get a stuck mash add extra hulls and give it a good stir, then recirculate until the grain bed reforms, and the wort runs clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the malt bill you have shown above you should not require rice hulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T20:17:33.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16340" CreationDate="2016-01-01T21:56:27.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even with RIMS you should do the vorlauf step.... Set the grain bed manually before you start RIMS circulation. This will prevent the initial chunks from getting stuck in the RIMS plumbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer stainless braided ring as false bottoms. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wu00K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T21:56:27.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16037" CreationDate="2016-01-02T16:21:02.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used this wine thief when I was using carboys - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/fermtech-wine-thief&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/fermtech-wine-thief&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also used a 6.5 gallon carboy for primary fermentation, and all you have to do is shake the thief up and down briskly to pull up more liquid into it if that's what your problem is. This method will be effective even if the thief doesn't touch the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6134" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T16:21:02.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16037" CreationDate="2016-01-02T20:07:02.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basters work well if you can find one that fits.&#xA;50ml pipet is basically the same thing but with accurate measuring. In a pinch a clean section of Beer line works, submerge then cap with thumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About your OG, fear not there is math for that if you have a FG from brix refractometer and hydrometer. The Formula is rather ridiculous by hand (honestly never seen it other than in source code). This calculator is in beersmith and the Android app Brewzor Calculator. I've tested it on several documented brews with an accuracy of 0.001+/-.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T20:07:02.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16755" CreationDate="2016-01-02T21:51:54.890" Score="1" ViewCount="727" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made some cider from Apple juice and some mixed fruit juice to try and mimic something like a mixed fruit copperberg. I used youngs super wine yeast and no additional sugar so that the aim would be 5.5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it finished, it was closer to 7% and taste more like wine than cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I could have missed, or do I need a particular type of yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12922" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T07:05:41.110" Title="Cider with youngs wine yeast" Tags="|yeast|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16754" CreationDate="2016-01-02T22:53:59.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wine yeasts will eat up almost every sugar there is driving cider gravity often to below 1.000sg. Trick is to stop the fermentaion, backsweeten, or use a less alcohol tolerant yeast. Good ole rapid rise bread yeast does great low gravity cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T22:53:59.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16063" CreationDate="2016-01-02T23:24:38.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Campden tablets are usually Potassium Metabisulfite .It works by depriving organisms of oxygen, kinda like how halon puts a fire out. For yeast it means it doesn't have what it needs so it's waiting, doesn't kill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made cider from juice that used Potassium Metabisulfide as a preservative, fermination would only start once the preservative was defeated by injecting pure o2 gas, about 3x what I normally would for oxygenating wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend o2 post fermination. You may have to make do with a still cider, or keg and force carb it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T05:48:21.783" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T05:48:21.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16767" CreationDate="2016-01-03T00:12:59.140" Score="3" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried using a classic water cooler (images provided below) as wort chiller? Besides being extra careful with sanitary issues, what could be other problems faced? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRg4Xz3ODlvlwuaHvCEr4t0_GXprxmRcA_mAAvVIWOEnYjXr2Yz8sLtgLmv&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRg4Xz3ODlvlwuaHvCEr4t0_GXprxmRcA_mAAvVIWOEnYjXr2Yz8sLtgLmv&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T12:51:58.387" Title="Water cooler as wort chiller" Tags="|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16760" CreationDate="2016-01-03T04:19:00.910" Score="3" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a small batch, 1 gallon of Pale Ale. It came in a kit and the yeast was not labeled so I am not sure what kind it is. This is only the third batch I have brewed. On my first two batches I saw a lot of activity by the second day and things died down by day seven, I racked to secondary (these were 5 gallon batches) on the 7th or 8th day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I am unsure how to handle is, on the 7th day there is more activity than there has been all week.&lt;/strong&gt; Seems obvious that I should not interrupt the process, but being new I wanted to ask. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this normal?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since this is a one gallon batch should I just keep it in primary for 3 weeks and not worry about secondary?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The OG was 1.06&lt;/strong&gt; (if that helps)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7996" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T14:03:29.917" Title="Is delayed yeast activity normal?" Tags="|yeast|original-gravity|primary-fermentation|kits|small-batch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16757" CreationDate="2016-01-03T13:30:00.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure most water coolers only chill a few servings of water at a time. And they are only dropping about 30° below ambient temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanitation aside I think the chilling abilities of a water cooler would quickly be defeated by hot wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's worth an experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T13:30:00.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16758" CreationDate="2016-01-03T13:42:52.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes this is a normal behavior, but not one we like in brewing. We like to see good activity in less than 12 hours. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Forget the recomended times in your instructions, they are lost in lag now. Let primary fermentaion complete, then rack secondary if called for.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Causes of a long lag time are numerous. Insufficient o2, insufficient nutrients, under pitching, poor yeast health. To name a few, the last two probably being your main culprits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good idea to hydrate and proof old dry yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't like long lag times because it gives fast acting bacteria a chance to get hold before yeast has produced alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T14:03:29.917" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T14:03:29.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16762" CreationDate="2016-01-03T14:45:22.430" Score="1" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some new gadgets that allow to chill the beer as fast as 2 min. It's not rocket science, just a more efficient way to increase heat transfer by rotating the desired object (link below provides more details). So i was thinking about using this same principle by putting ice inside a laundry machine and then putting the wort inside a closed container. This would chill the wort very fast and there's the bonus of a massive aeration. Have anyone tried something similar? The more experienced brewers could point out some possible flaws in this approach? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2463353/Spinchill-cools-drinks-30-seconds-SPINNING-THEM.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2463353/Spinchill-cools-drinks-30-seconds-SPINNING-THEM.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T16:30:47.997" Title="Chill the wort faster by applying convection (by putting it inside a laundry machine)?" Tags="|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16761" CreationDate="2016-01-03T15:55:07.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the principal is sound, it has major flaws for wort chilling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Major difference is volume and temp differences. 12oz / 5gal, 75°-38° / 212°-70°&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Convection works on the principal that heat transfer is at a finite rate. So give the small area cooling source more exposure by moving away what has been cooled. All brew chillers do this in different ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw I'll pass on a beer that just had the crap &quot;spun&quot; out of it, unless you open it for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can chill a beer can in 2 minutes if you submerge in ice chest filled with ice, water, salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt they are moving the beer much to provide added exposure, rather turning the can allowing it to come in contact with ice more, than sitting there with air space. .... Just add water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as wort, while using an immersion chiller many will whirlpool the wort by various means. By pump or even drill with a wine mixer. I personally don't like my wort exposed like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But.. If you were to put hot wort in say a corney and give it an ice bath, it would benifiet from agitation. But... That much ice is costly, and I think there are easier ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see nothing that would give added aeration, since it would be limited to the air in the sealed container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T16:30:47.997" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T16:30:47.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2016-01-03T17:36:29.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Press your spent grain&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something often overlooked in all grain brewing, but will greatly boost your mash efficiency. A lot if methods and devices have been created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The commercial HEBS system gets most of it's effeciency from the press that leaves spent grain almost dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;BIAB - hang mash bag over kettle and use high temp silicone gloves to squeeze out what you can.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Method I've used a lot. A gravity hydro press. Basically once you have exposed grain on the sparge, put a garbage bag in the mash tun and fill with water to press the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Many contraptions have been made to do this in homebrew. Worth a Google.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your grain is almost dry and not sticky, you're doing your mash and press right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T17:36:29.583" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-01-03T17:36:29.583" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6607" CreationDate="2016-01-03T19:44:15.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so maybe I have just been dodging a bullet here, but I just add ice.  I add lots of ice at the end of the boil - as much as 20lbs.  I usually make 6 gallon batches.  My wort is about 3.5 to 4 gallons.  20lbs of ice is about 2 - 2 1/2 gallons.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I put the ice in the bottling bucket.  I start my brew into the bottling bucket, about a gallon or so into it I add my yeast.  The cold wont kill them, but I wait until there is enough wort to keep the yeast from being thrown onto ice.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have used this method since I first started brewing about 15 years ago.  I have had a batch or two that was a bit over-carbonated, one I didnt like the taste of, but not a single batch that I had to pour out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13116" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T19:44:15.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2016-01-04T02:13:41.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once made ginger candy.  The secret to the spiciness was in heating the ginger, letting it cool and then heating it again.  Each heating and cooling cycle added quite a bit more kick to the ginger.  I would imagine the same would be true for ginger beer.  After the fourth cycle, the ginger was so spicey that I could not eat it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13118" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T02:13:41.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16757" CreationDate="2016-01-04T03:57:18.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think using it as-is would probably be a waste of time, as already mentioned. One big question that comes to mind is how you'd get it in the water cooler without lots of splashing (and therefore oxidation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were willing to modify it to recirculate the wort into the top of the water cooler you might be able to get something usable but without some serious research/modifications to ensure the cooling element is constantly active and able to sufficiently cool the circulating wort, I highly doubt you'd be able to chill the wort at a reasonable pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine at best you'll probably spend about as much time as an in-sink ice bath just with additional risk for oxidation and/or infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that said, if your goal is to minimize excess water usage at all costs (and the water cooler is fully at your disposal), modifying the water cooler or at least repurposing the cooling element could at least be worth some further research and, if that goes well, a solid attempt (and answer here for the greater good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T03:57:18.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16754" CreationDate="2016-01-04T07:05:41.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apple juice contains a simple sugar and tends to ferment completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people add a non-fermentable sugar like lactose or even an artificial sweetener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people add dry malt extract because it doesn't ferment as completely as apple juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nottingham yeast is what I found I like the most.  It finishes around 1.004.  S-04 is another ale yeast recommended for cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation adds to the taste.  If you didn't carbonate or it was light you can try more carbonation to see if you prefer that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things you can add include acid to make it sharper and tannins to give it a a puckering aftertaste.  Homebrew stores sell powders of both.  I've added strong black tea for tannins and was happy with it &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tannins take a while to age.  I feel cider tastes better a few months after bottling compared to a couple weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8399" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T07:05:41.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16690" CreationDate="2016-01-04T09:59:26.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First: It is your first brew! Relax. Brew it and THEN start playing. There is a lot of things you need to get used to. But it is up to you. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can follow thesquaregroot's answer, or you can alter the abv in a different way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brew the beer and let it ferment in two fermenters, where the one fermenter is the one gallon one that will be made special. When fermentation starts to slow down on the &quot;special&quot; fermenter add extra sugar. You can use DME, table sugar, honey, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get calculators online that will tell you now much ABV you will get from sugar additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that your yeast has limitations on how much ABV it can survive in, so make sure you do not exceed that amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are adding jalapenos it will be a Fruit/Spice/Herb beer with a base of (probably) Imperial Wheat. Witbier has lemon/orange zest and coriander. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T09:59:26.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16401" CreationDate="2016-01-04T10:06:43.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast strains can go to 20+% ABV, but it all depends on the strain. I had a 14% yeast ferment a beer to ~22%!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to identify the strain is to send it a lab (unless you have the tools and knowledge). The problem with wild yeast is that you will have many strains, not just one. Bacteria will also be present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T10:06:43.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16681" CreationDate="2016-01-04T12:34:07.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past few days &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;i reached the end of the process:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;drink beer!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can say that the &lt;strong&gt;taste was good&lt;/strong&gt; (i am not professional), but it was &lt;strong&gt;not as clear as previous beers&lt;/strong&gt;, this was expected since i &lt;strong&gt;only let it ferment for 7 days at 20-25 celcius&lt;/strong&gt; (then the sediment did not fall completely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now another batch, wich was cooked at same time is in bottles waiting to reach a suficient maduration time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Conclusion, as stated in many articules, the fermentation its a really important phase for our beer, it not only generates the alcohol, but also le the sediment to decant, producing an much more clear beer, with less visible particles and impurities.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Thanks everyone for the help!!!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13051" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T12:34:07.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2016-01-04T15:38:24.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that hasn't been touched on in previous answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look into a water profile that best suits your base beer. I've not looked into it but I'm sure there is an ion you can manipulate to get the ginger character you want to stand out more, much like how gypsum accentuates hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T15:38:24.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16736" CreationDate="2016-01-04T19:42:57.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a wine fridge that I took the shelves out of. I can fit a 5 gallon fermenter into it. It has a digital temp display on the front and I set that to the temp I want, it works well for the German lagers I make. Most wne fridges I looked at when I was after one had a flat bottom big enough to take a 5 gallon fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13112" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:42:57.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16774" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-05T02:17:25.733" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest cook-pot I have available to mash my grain and boil the wort is about 3 gallons, but I'm trying to make a 5 gallon recipe (got the 5-gal carboy and plastic fermenter, etc). Can I make that work, or do I have to do the cooking in something that will hold 5 gallons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13122" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T02:35:32.760" Title="Rank amateur 1st step question" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-01-05T14:30:53.033" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16774" CreationDate="2016-01-05T02:35:32.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do a partial-volume boil, diluting the boil volume with sanitary water. In fact, this is a great way to chill the batch. Your hop utilization in particular will be affected by a partial-volume boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably only be able to boil 2 or 2.5gl in a 3gl pot. And in any case, watch out for the very likely, and very messy, boilover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T02:35:32.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-05T06:48:57.027" Score="6" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;On another question about leaving brew longer in a second or primary fermenter for a long time, many state they have done this with little to no negative affects as long as you keep your breather full of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I leave for months sometimes. If I suddenly need to leave and my breather is no longer active, is there a reason I couldn't pull the breather and just cork off the beer in the primary or secondary fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13123" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T22:41:34.867" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T02:26:17.617" Title="Putting a stopper in a fermenter if you leave it for a long time" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|pressure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16776" CreationDate="2016-01-05T07:20:57.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That would be fine as long as the fermenter can handle some pressure. It might even &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9745/pressure-during-fermentation&quot;&gt;improve your beer&lt;/a&gt;. But if you're traveling a relief valve is pretty much required (like a cornelius keg). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer that appears to not be 'active' is still generating some CO2 - before the yeast are completely dead (which will take several months) they consume stored glycogen, and the last traces of sugar in the beer. Ever open a year old home brew? Mine are almost always highly carbonated by then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the secondary, the pressure should not be much, may or may not more than serving pressure. Primary, however, will reach undesirable pressures very quickly. Relief valve required for sure if you have more than a few points of gravity remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T07:20:57.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16776" CreationDate="2016-01-05T15:02:15.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like above, I've found corney kegs to be a great sealed aging container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple notes. &#xA;I wouldn't allow any pressure in any glass carboy. Below is box from 6gal Italian glass carboy.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GnYQe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;no pressure&quot;&gt;!&#xA;PSI is pounds per square inch. Conditioning and secondary can easily make 2 bars, about 27psi. Because of the surface area a carboy would fail at a fraction of that. Plastic PET fermentor should be ok, keeping a plug in may be difficult though. It can pop out under pressure or even suck into the fermentor on a temp drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use just water as an airlock fluid, use a sanitizer or vodka and keep it fresh. If the fluid becomes contaminated, along with temp drop it can bell siphon the fluid into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's going to be unattended for a long time I would use a tube and a 1/2 gallon sanitizer bottle. A small airlock may go dry.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V8oLU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the condition of the beer after several months. Its best to age beer off the primary yeast if the style calls for aging. Some styles are best fresh, IPA for example. Some ales and lagers can benifiet from several months of aging. Several months in a proper fermentor will do nothing &quot;harmful&quot;, but may not age into what is true to style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T02:26:17.617" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T02:26:17.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16784" CreationDate="2016-01-05T20:08:14.407" Score="3" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at a homebrewer's equipment that is getting out of the hobby and I'm getting into the hobby.  I'm wanting to spend my money wisely and while jumping right into all-grain brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of the equipment for sale for $300&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 gallon mash tun (spigot and supply hose screen works great. Never&#xA;had a problem with grain in wort)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 gallon ball lock (2 years old&#xA;with dual regulator and picnic tap) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two PET plastic 6 gallon    fermenters (one plastic carboy and one&#xA;big mouth bubbler)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two    stoppers  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two airlocks &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5# co2 tank about half full &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starsan cleaner   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pbw cleaner &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carboy brush &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Siphon tube &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Miscellaneous tubing &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 smaller copper immersion chillers with tubing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not wanting the PET fermenters, the Mash tun is a diy project with scratches and discoloration in the inside, the wort chillers are diy projects as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What price do used keg systems from individuals normally run? and How good is it to invest in diy and used fermenting equipment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nvY2F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nvY2F.png&quot; alt=&quot;Equipment&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEiyg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEiyg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mash Tun&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13126" LastEditorUserId="13126" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T21:28:58.390" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T00:16:54.843" Title="First homebrewing equipment question" Tags="|equipment|keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16783" CreationDate="2016-01-05T20:18:26.920" Score="5" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons for using a 5 gallon keg for 3 gallon batches of beer? Am I wasting a lot of Co2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13126" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T21:01:51.287" Title="Using 5 gallon kegs for 3 gallon batches" Tags="|equipment|small-batch|kegs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16780" CreationDate="2016-01-05T20:37:39.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is absolutely fine, bit of extra head space isn't going to cause any harm, or give any magical benefits. Just means you'll have less beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T20:37:39.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16544" CreationDate="2016-01-05T20:44:06.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Giving the plant a little citric acid isn't going to harm the yeast, too much may harm both bacteria and the yeast but pushing he pH out of the optimal range, but juice of 1 lemon isn't going to cause any harm, and likely the addition of extra nutrients will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T20:44:06.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16780" CreationDate="2016-01-05T20:44:28.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a problem. Runs the risk of oxygen exposure to finished beer if not filled properly, but It can be done at the cost of co2, which is very minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I purge starsan from the keg using co2 and fill the corney from the outlet port, so there is no air exposure regaurdless of how much beer im putting in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will force carb more quickly. If you utilize the larger surface area co2 can contact beer by laying the keg on its side while carbonating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T21:01:51.287" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T21:01:51.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16779" CreationDate="2016-01-05T20:54:00.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell if it's a good deal or not without seeing everything. I would suggest making a list and compare to similar used gear on ebay etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: honestly don't see $300 there. Here's some new prices.10gal igloo $60, 5gal keg $90-$120, 5# aluminum co2 $90, regulator $60.  As far as the plastics, tubing, fittings a etc I would ditch anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One caution, check the date stamp on the co2 tank, if it's not been tested and certified within 5 years you can't fill it with out a hydro test. Your local welding supply can give you pricing. Some older tanks cannot be filled at all, namely steel tanks with bottom collars or showing any rust. Pitting or dents on aluminium is a scrap too. Image below is a scrap c02 tank.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QlcYG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scrap co2 tank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T21:44:08.887" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T21:44:08.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14605" CreationDate="2016-01-06T09:28:01.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that a Silicone bung would be the best thing to go for as Silicone has a lot of chemical, weathering and heat resistance meaning that it will stand up to things like this. Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vital-parts.co.uk/silicone-tapered-plugs-336-p.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vital-parts.co.uk/silicone-tapered-plugs-336-p.asp&lt;/a&gt;, this is where I usually get mine and they work perfectly for the application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure that when you insert the bung that its dry and fits in firmly without any movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13127" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T09:28:01.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16787" CreationDate="2016-01-06T10:51:53.193" Score="2" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a coopers classic IPA beer kit with a hop tea (about 5min boil), tin of light malt extract and 500g of light spray malt. I forgot to add water to the airlock in the first 4 days of fermentation (hoping that was ok though, it was inside and the kit yeast looked pretty happy after hydrating it). Fermentation was kept stable at about 19 degrees Celsius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I just tasted the beer going into the keg and it tasted surprisingly bitter, couldn't taste much else. Wondering if the best shot at mellowing it out would be to let it rest at room temperature, or if it's better to let it mature while chilled and carbonated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3283" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T20:31:34.670" Title="Beer tasted bitter at kegging time, best leave at room temp?" Tags="|conditioning|bitterness|maturation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16786" CreationDate="2016-01-06T12:45:50.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dry airlock&lt;/strong&gt; - You may be ok, it's not an ideal scenerio, but the dry air lock alone may have been enough to protect the beer for a couple days. Cross fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Super bitter&lt;/strong&gt; - check your recipe, double check hop addition times and amounts, type (pellet, whole). If the recipe doesn't call for aging, some over hopping may have happened. Time will most definitely mellow hop aroma, flavors, bitters... Unfortunately in that order too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alpha Acids&lt;/strong&gt; - something often overlooked by homebrewers. No two hop harvests are the same. On your hop packaging there is an AA value, adjust your recipie accordingly to your ingredients, not the default AA. Most programs or recipe apps make this easy by updating the hop characters. Also AA fade with age, calculate that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warm or cold&lt;/strong&gt; - Room temp seems to accelerate the melding effects of aging. While slower, an IPA may be easier to catch at that right stage of enjoyment if it's cold.  Buddy of mine had a brew he nicknamed hop oil, to him it was undrinkable over bitter etc. After 2 months cold conditioning it was an excellent example of a West coast ipa and won a gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T20:31:34.670" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T20:31:34.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14605" CreationDate="2016-01-06T13:47:45.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is a common problem. I think a summary recap answer is warranted.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Proper Stopper Size and Style&lt;/strong&gt;. There are dozens of styles. Hoods, drilled plug, molded silicone etc. Pick one you like, they all work just some easier than others. Most important get the right size for your carboy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hold it In&lt;/strong&gt;. Tape, foil, plastic food wrap, champaign cork retainer wire, palet packaging wrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reduce Pressure&lt;/strong&gt; Don't over fill the blow off bottle. Couple inches is all you need. The depth of the sanitizer translates into psi the stopper has to hold in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clean and Dry&lt;/strong&gt; Make sure the stopper and carboy neck are dry. Clean paper towels work well. Using a sheet that you unwrap to get to has worked well for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T18:13:00.607" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T18:13:00.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16790" CreationDate="2016-01-06T16:04:15.623" Score="6" ViewCount="1691" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most famous stout is Guinness (a dry stout to be more precise). I personally don't like much this dry / 'salty' type of stout. I like the sweeter ones, like you were almost drinking a cup of hot chocolate. So, how to bypass the toasty / dryness that the black malts normally provide? Even further, how to add  sweetness to it? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T04:14:50.863" Title="How to add sweetness to Stout beer?" Tags="|sweetness|specialty-malt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16789" CreationDate="2016-01-06T16:11:22.653" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally sweet stouts are sweetened by malts and underattenuation in fermentation. In recent times stouts are sweetened by unfermentable sugars like lactose. IE Milk Stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any dark malts that wouldn't provide their characters, in flavor. Though aging does make them more rounded and mild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... After some conversation on &lt;a href=&quot;http://hb.chat/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hb.chat/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Midnight Wheat seems to be the best for adding color without too many other characters accociated with dark grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T15:51:52.740" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T15:51:52.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16786" CreationDate="2016-01-06T20:27:54.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you use pellets instead of leaves? If so, you need to adjust the amount downwards.&#xA;My experience is that there is not a one to one relation between pellets and leaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Erlo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13130" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T20:27:54.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T02:19:24.340" Score="5" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an engineer who's built a wine quality detector. My sensor can pick up a wide variety of chemicals at levels as low as parts per million (ppm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With no background in wine production myself, I have a few questions regarding how winemakers perform quality control at their facilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do commercial winemakers care about uniformity and consistency in their wine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After grapes are harvested, what methods can winemakers employ to alter the taste of their wine? For example, if a the grapes from a particular harvest is too sweet, is there anything the winemaker can do to change this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I understand that there are inherent variations associated with harvests from different years (hence the year of the wine actually matters). Do winemakers strive to achieve a certain level of consistency across different years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Besides ethanol, do winemakers quantify other chemicals present in wine? The list of chemicals that we can detect are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sugar: Glucose, Sucrose and Fructose&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acid: Acetic Acid, Citric, Isocitric, Lactic, Tartaric and Malic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impurities: Volatile Phenols, Geosmin, Haloanisoles, Methoxypyranzines&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others: Catechin, Epicatechin, Gallocatechin gallate, Myricetin, Resveratrol, Quercetin, Syringic acid, Hydroxybenzaldehyde, p-Vanillin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other chemicals that you would like to test?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13131" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T21:37:19.053" Title="Wine Quality Sensor" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|equipment|red-wine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16796" CreationDate="2016-01-06T16:44:05.383" Score="2" ViewCount="2729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I and my soon to be wife have just started brewing on our own and at the moment we are using a local provider for our malt. The malt comes ground in a plastic bag and is relatively fresh but a bit unevenly ground. In the bottom of the bag there is quite a lot of malt that is almost in flour form. I have been unsure whether or not to add this flour to the brew as it tends to go through our filter and some times get stuck in our equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid it might burn at the bottom of our cooking pot if we include to much of it but I don't want to lose to much of the sugar. It has not burned yet as I have usually separated it out and put it at the top of the brew after adding water to make sure it does not fall out of the filter. This process is how ever quite tedious and I am considering whether it is necessary or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to the questions! How coarse should the malt bee before malting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine differently ground malt affect the end taste and the brewing process. What are your experiences in this area? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want as much info ass possible! Thank you for your answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12849" OwnerDisplayName="Pablo Karlsson" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T10:20:57.883" Title="How coarse should I grind the malt?" Tags="|malt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16797" CreationDate="2016-01-05T10:36:53.780" Score="5" ViewCount="2883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for simple ways to keep my beer a stable temperature, lower than room temp, during fermentation. Are there any simple ways of doing this besides buying a refrigerator for the purpose of doing this. Any tips are welcome. If any one has built homemade cooling systems i'm interested in that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12849" OwnerDisplayName="Pablo Karlsson" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T08:21:22.033" Title="Good options for cooling during fermentation?" Tags="|brewing|cooling|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16794" CreationDate="2016-01-06T15:13:47.010" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If by simple, you mean free, I would use tap water, an instant-read thermometer, and ice. If you're trying to ferment at say, 50 degrees for some type of lager, run a tub or large trash can full of water, check the temp, put the carboy in, then add ice and stir till you get to the desired temp. It &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; warm over the course of the day, so you'll have to keep checking and either adding ice or water to even out the temperature, but it'll give you a more stable environment, thanks to water's high specific heat, than just leaving it out in the open. If you don't have a tub or can't monopolize it for weeks fermentation, maybe check the temperature in your basement or cellar, or that of a friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; method would be to actually buy a fridge and a basic thermostat, especially if you plan on continuing to brew. The stability, ease of use, and peace of mind will be well worth the small investment, and are also a good chunk of what you need for a draught beer system ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Cal_Wes" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T15:13:47.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16793" CreationDate="2016-01-07T02:50:33.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mill size is really dependant on the brew system. Sounds like you BIAB, so I won't go into to much. I would encourage you to look a other topics here about Mash Tuns.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To answer&lt;/strong&gt;. I like to have the grain cracked into roughly quarters. With husk almost entirely intacted but separated from the grain. There will always be some flour no matter the mill size. Finer mills are more effecient as far as getting the most from the grain, however fine and flour grinds are out of the question for most homebrew, as it takes expensive commercial equipment to take advantage of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vorlauf.&lt;/strong&gt; To keep the small grain particles out of the boil, you can do what is called a vorlauf step. Drain a portion of the wort and into a container and pour it back in on top of the grain. Do this until it's particle free, the grain acts as a filter. Double bagging the grain helps too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T02:58:46.827" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T02:58:46.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16794" CreationDate="2016-01-07T03:06:48.380" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of products that are available. Most are a heatsink or piezo electric coolers, claiming to cool 30° below ambient. Really depends on your fermenter type carboy, bucket etc.&#xA;It's worth a Google. Having not tried them I can't point you to a good one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BrewJacket is the only one that I've seen that interest me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B1SLu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T15:25:57.643" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T15:25:57.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16793" CreationDate="2016-01-07T09:10:50.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a tradeoff between amount of cracked grains and the amount of flour. Ideally you want all the grain cracked but due to varying size of the grains you will probably get too much flour, clogging your filter.&#xA;Clogging can be avoided by adding rice husks to the grain (Especially important when making wheat beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13132" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T09:10:50.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16793" CreationDate="2016-01-07T10:20:57.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The grain should be crushed, with a roller mill, not ground. This will leave the husks mostly intact, but the starch should shatter into fine, white particles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These fine particles will become your beer, include as much as possible. They should dissolve in the mash, or at least become very soft. They might end up getting past your whirlpool, and even in the ferment, but don't worry, they are made of good things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your filter like anyway? My mash filter has 2mm holes, nothing that bothers me gets through, and there is certainly nothing downstream that could get clogged by 2mm particles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T10:20:57.883" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16792" CreationDate="2016-01-07T14:35:45.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some commercial wine producers do care about consistency and go to great lengths to ensure a consistent product. Others believe more in the variability and craft aspects of their product with a great year making a great wine and every year being different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wine makers can add extra water to their wines or mix in a too dry batch; not allowed in France for VDP/Appellation wines where traditional strict methods must be followed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise if a harvest is too low in sugar modern wine producers with vacuum distill water of the liquid to get the correct starting concentrations of sugars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a large number of other chemicals that are the fermentation by products of yeast that are important in both wine and beer flavour profiles. Stressing yeasts tend to produce alter production of these by products sometimes taking them over flavour thresholds. It is when this occurs that producers will care. So long as it is below the perception threshold for aroma or flavour then chances are it will not be important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T14:35:45.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16792" CreationDate="2016-01-07T14:55:07.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that commercial winemakers make extensive use of blending post-fermentation to create a consistent product. They will blend wines makes in the same year, as well as blending wines made in different years. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solera&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;solera&lt;/a&gt;, used primarily in sherry production, is an expression of this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another chemical in the must that is important to quantify is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulfur#Bactericide_in_winemaking_and_food_preservation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;free sulfur&lt;/a&gt;. Grape juice contains small amounts of sulfur, which the wine maker will supplement at various points before and during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T14:55:07.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6324" CreationDate="2016-01-07T17:25:10.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few years late but for future reference. I see most have answered the question with correct info regarding enzymes but there are ways. But really it boils down to this (no pun intended) using only malted wheat will make the beer very white pale, with a very dry finish, the mash will have little flavour aside from a soft flour like taste. The proteins are smaller than barley and hard to filter but settle well after long conditioning, Hop aroma may be muted by then. If you wanted too go ahead, make the beer acidic like a Berliner weisse, and ferment with a fruity yeast like Brewferm's Witbier yeast. The soft flavour of wheat is great to add fruit concentrate to. Beware a big never ending frothy head if carbonation level is too high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13134" LastEditorUserId="13134" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T17:30:55.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T17:30:55.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16792" CreationDate="2016-01-07T18:23:38.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the producer and the wine product. Some wine producers try to create a consistent product, while others try to make the best wine they can with the crop they've been given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Producers who make &quot;consistent wine&quot; tend to hold wine for many years and blend it together gradually over time so that what comes out of the process is as close to last year's as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wine makers who try to make the best that this year can give them alter their wines very little little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that boujalais nouveau is almost never the same year to year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your idea is a good one that will resonate with winemakers who want to manage their wines at the chemical level, I think that would be most producers, but not the highest end producers who value the traditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind you are most likely to run into home vintners here rather than producers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T18:23:38.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16789" CreationDate="2016-01-07T18:52:46.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Evil says, you have about three ways to make it sweeter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add non-fermentable sugars. (In addition to the normal stuff, of course) Lactose is pretty usual for this one. I've made sweet stout extract recipes this way. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your grain extract has lots of non-fermentables. This might mean mashing at a higher temp, if you are doing all-grain. You could also add things like oatmeal (think oatmeal stout) where the additional body may cause you to perceive it as sweeter. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure lower attenuation when fermenting. Pick a yeast that is know to be a poor attenuator (think a 'sweet' yeast)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple other thoughts: go big: an imperial stout has tons of body, and because it has such a high gravity it often has a lot of residual sweetness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try lowering your hopping rate. Less bitter, which make improve the perception of sweetness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12431" LastEditorUserId="12431" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T20:16:13.903" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T20:16:13.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T21:11:17.183" Score="1" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a turkey fryer 8.5 gallon turkey fryer kettle and I have a Home Depot Rubbermade diy mash tun with a stainless steel worm for sparging.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mash tun will need the worm replaced soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do need a brew kettle. 1 Keggle w/ brass ball valve (made from 15.5 used kegs) at AIH are $133.77 shipped to me.  I can also get the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewinabag.com/collections/frontpage/products/the-brew-bag-for-keggles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Brew Bag&lt;/a&gt; for about $35 shipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm seeing a lot of benefits timewise and moneywise to invest in a Keggle with The Brew Bag.  Cleaner wort vs effort, easy cleanup, money invested in a huge kettle, one vessel to mash, and the mash out is done directly in the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not used a Keggle or The Brew In A Bag.  Am I missing an added benefit to using a cooler mash tun or disadvantage to BIAB with a Keggle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13126" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T01:14:44.053" Title="Cooler Mash tun or Keggle with The Brew Bag" Tags="|kettle|biab|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16805" CreationDate="2016-01-07T23:30:22.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cooler mash tun will get you better results. Thier only limitation is step mashes require decoction or mash infusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going BIAB would be a downgrade imo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keggles have their own pros an cons.  They lack insulation and need wrapped during rest. With a proper false bottom or some care with BIAB, you can apply flame for step mashes. With only a single keggle, your batch will be limited to about post boil 8-9 gallons max because of the grain absorption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BIAB to be done right you need two kettles one for mash and one to heat sparge water. Or you're stuck with a full volume mash and it's high water grain ratio. Limited batch size etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T01:14:44.053" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T01:14:44.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16811" CreationDate="2016-01-08T02:58:13.310" Score="2" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning I smacked my first smack pack, and about 10 times, each time a little harder because deep depression would set in if the goodies spewed across the room. I finally got it, or so I thought. Fizzing away on the inside, it started to swell a bit about after an hour or so, and then 6 hours later, I sanitized my stuff, dumped it into my flask, all that good stuff... and it's doing its thing on the stir plate. It didn't swell up a lot at all, but also read about many people not bothering to even wait when they're using a stir plate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's a 1L starter, that of which I'm going to chill in the fridge tomorrow, throw out the spent wort, and add some more to step it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's why I'm worried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of curiosity, I tore open the packet to see the little stubborn pack inside that wouldn't bust very easy, and to my surprise, it's actually a double pack?! One half broke, whereas the other did not! It's a rectangular shaped pack, with two sides, each separate from each other. Is this some type of mixture? Or just double the amount for a higher gravity (which is what I'm trying to make)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I'm planning to do, unless someone can instruct me otherwise, is to throw in the contents of the second part of that pack tomorrow, when I step up the starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise, and thank you... Loving this. Hope the non-swelling, and extra packet thing isn't going to ruin my starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, that little packet sat out at room temp all day while waiting for the pack to swell, but I put the little half of pouch that didn't bust in the fridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13103" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T15:02:07.767" Title="My first yeast starter with a stir plate, possibly a disaster" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|yeast-nutrient|wyeast|stir-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16810" CreationDate="2016-01-08T03:54:05.307" Score="7" ViewCount="615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need help knowing what to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My breaker tripped on my fermentation chamber and my Wort dropped to 59 degrees (beer temp). This was high gravity ale using Safale us-05 (2 packs, rehydrated ofcourse). The beer temp was steady at 69 degrees for 9 days since boil. Last I checked it was still pumping out CO2 steadily (not like the first three days but still steady). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I bring this back up to upper 60's or should I just call it quits on this one. I am sure there were plenty of sugars left. I have not checked gravity since the cool down, but OG was 1.096&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13136" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T14:40:25.543" Title="Help - Wort dropped to 59 degrees (beer temp)" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|wort|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16808" CreationDate="2016-01-08T05:12:10.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should start fermenting after warming up.  The temperature it dropped to is well above refrigerator temperature and yeast will survive being in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't start you can pitch new yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8399" LastEditorUserId="8399" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T05:32:11.690" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T05:32:11.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16808" CreationDate="2016-01-08T14:40:25.543" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 9 days, primary is pretty close to done if not already complete. Yeast activity is starting to slow anyways. The 10° drop to 59° May have caused the yeast to floculate and settle down (cold crash) prematurely.  Warm it back up 2° an hour and give the fermentor a gentle swirl to get yeast back into suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, you didn't hurt anything. Just give your fermentation a couple extra days in primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T14:40:25.543" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16807" CreationDate="2016-01-08T14:56:16.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smack packs contain yeast nutrients, and sugars nothing magical. Its just a mini starter in a bag for proofing yeast for direct pitching. Don't need it at all If doing your own starter. If you do all grain your wort has all the nutrients it needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your 1st stage went fine. I would just step up as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the risk of infection just throw the second pack away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_productdetail.cfm?ProductID=16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_productdetail.cfm?ProductID=16&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T15:02:07.767" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T15:02:07.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16813" CreationDate="2016-01-08T17:50:22.100" Score="3" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just built a fermentation chamber and bought a brew belt and a cheap thermostat on ebay to try to control the fermentation temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern is, where do I place the probe in order to get a reliable measurement of the wort temperature? I don't trust placing the probe directly into the fermenter, so I thought taping it to one side. Is it fine or there are clever and more reliable solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13105" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T13:40:41.977" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T13:40:41.977" Title="Temperature probe placement" Tags="|fermentation|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16812" CreationDate="2016-01-08T18:50:30.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The temp probe is most likely not waterproof, indeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people place the temp probe on the side of the fermentor, with some insulation around it to try to isolate the fermentor-wall temperature from the ambient environment. You'll get close-enough to the wort temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also acquire a &quot;thermowell&quot;: a hollow, capped stainless-steel tube which fits the temperature probe inside, which you can place in your wort. The temperature probe ends up being roughly in the middle of the wort/beer. This is the most reliable means of testing the fermentation temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T18:50:30.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16314" CreationDate="2016-01-10T13:38:32.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the other answers, don't worry too much. You don't want it in your beer though, it will add a sour hint of acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem you could siphon off the top but you cant, it mixes too easily. Trick is to rack the beer &quot;out&quot; of the trub on the bottom and the starsan on top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time do slow temp drops 1° an hour. Idea is to allow co2 production to compensate for gas shrinkage.  Or cap the fermentor with a starter sponge or foil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T13:51:51.687" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T13:51:51.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16817" CreationDate="2016-01-04T11:35:01.887" Score="2" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im going to try and brew a weissbier but my local store does not have the hops suggested to me in most recipes. What are good replacement hops for Spalter Select when brewing weissbier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12849" OwnerDisplayName="Pablo Karlsson" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T19:52:29.693" Title="Spalter Select Replacement" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16816" CreationDate="2016-01-04T13:01:47.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spalt, Saaz, Tettnanger, and Hersbrucker hops are all suitable alternatives:&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerlegends.com/spalter-select-hops&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j79xu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j79xu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And according to another resource&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewps.com/hop-chart-hop-substitutes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;, specifically U.S. Saaz and Tettnanger:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUc5p.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUc5p.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6446" OwnerDisplayName="Andrew Cheong" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T13:01:47.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-10T22:55:55.130" Score="4" ViewCount="3690" Body="&lt;p&gt;My extract/partial grain kit calls for a OG of 1.057 - 1.061. After topping off in the fermentor, my OG was 1.074. Is this close enough? Did the addition of water raise the OG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13141" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T01:45:28.950" Title="does adding water to wort to top off for fermentation raise the original gravity?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16819" CreationDate="2016-01-10T23:17:44.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding water post boil will dilute and lower the OG, not raise it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible your readings were off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hydrometer&lt;/strong&gt; If using a hydrometer make sure the wort is cool and follow the temp correction values for your hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Refractometer&lt;/strong&gt; Make sure your refractometer is zeroed out using distilled water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.074 is the ball park low end gravity for many &quot;big&quot; beers. The added sugars require more yeast for fermentation. Double check your readings and pitch accordingly. If you do it right, the only down side of higher OG is more alcohol, if done wrong you may get an underattenuated beer that is sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T23:24:57.980" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T23:24:57.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16819" CreationDate="2016-01-11T01:45:28.950" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding water to something will lower its gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When adding water to wort from a concentrated extract brew process its not uncommon for the two to not mix completely.  When you added the water you turned over some of the wort and took a sample of something that was more dense than intended.  No big deal.  It will equilibrate and the fermentation action of the yeast will stir it up once it gets going too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, add your top up water and either stir with a sanitized spoon or seal the fermentor and shake it.  Then take your sample for gravity readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happens to everyone at this stage in the hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T01:45:28.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2016-01-11T07:05:36.693" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told that....wine in a brown bottle meant it was bottled in the autumn; and wine that was bottled in the spring is in a green bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13143" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T07:05:36.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16826" CreationDate="2016-01-11T13:28:14.897" Score="3" ViewCount="1819" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just made my first lager, it is currently lagering at 1 C. What is happening to my beer at this temperature? Is the yeast still active? And most importantly: What is happening at this temperature that would not at higher temperatures? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12464" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T16:44:29.820" Title="What exactly happens during lagering?" Tags="|fermentation|lager|lagering|cold|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16824" CreationDate="2016-01-11T13:39:48.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary thing that is happening is that stuff is dropping clear.  The cold temp in combination with sitting still for extended time allows even the smallest of insoluble particles settle out of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary may be some yeast activity, but its very slow.  I have made plenty of lagers and much of the yeast work is done before you do the lager phase.  When fermented right many lagers taste great even without the lager phase.  I have often gone right to serving a lager just 6 weeks into the process and those beers went into the lager phase. That's not to say the beers would be even better with an extended lager phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory a good lager ferment doesn't leave much 'clean up' for the yeast to do. If a diacetyl rest was performed then the higher temp encouraged the yeast clean up thing to happen then, before lager phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So ultimately at 1C for a month its all my first point, clarity.  Keep in mind that with clarity the dropping yeast pull with it certain flavor compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T13:39:48.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16824" CreationDate="2016-01-11T15:31:34.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lagering temp adjustments are done gradually not like a cold crash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lager yeast strains are very much alive and active during lagering. The colder temps slow the yeast metabolism, they are struggling to survive, the byproduct is they consume phenols and other things they made or ignored during primary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Story Time&lt;/em&gt; - here's a little illustration, you're in the snow near freezing starving and have no energy and are near death the only thing available to eat is the grease soaked paper wrapper from the burger you had 2 weeks ago in your pocket, you bet you eat it. But If you have the energy to prepare or search for easier food you won't. This is basically the situation lagering puts yeast in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;1°C&lt;/em&gt; - The lower the temp, the slower the yeast are to clean up. 1°C is the usually a temperature for a several month lagering. Raise temp to reduce lagering time at the trade off of quality. Low and slow is the way for quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T16:44:29.820" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T16:44:29.820" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16794" CreationDate="2016-01-11T15:47:45.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewpi and an old fridge that someone has given up on and has set on the side of the road waiting for trash pick up. Hack the fridge with brewpi like components and control your fermentation remotely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13136" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T15:47:45.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16475" CreationDate="2016-01-11T15:54:29.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm sure you can find a good base recipe from the other answers, here's some suggestions for your modifications.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More Malt&lt;/strong&gt; consider a small Melonoiden Malt addition for Maillard notes (biscuit, bread crust, carmel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More Body&lt;/strong&gt; Body is mainly controlled by mash temperatures. Specifically the higher end of alpha-amylase temps for fuller body beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T16:00:15.757" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T16:00:15.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16824" CreationDate="2016-01-11T16:07:44.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your beer is developing the clean crisp flavour profile associated with lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast is still active, this is one of the main distingushing factors of a lager yeast is it doesn't beome dormat at low temps but continues to ferment, even if slowly. Still any sudden drops will cause dormancy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing happening to your beer is the break down of sulphur compunds(H2S), lager yeast tends to produce more sulphur off flavours than other yeasts, but during lagering cleans these up. Some other off flavours are also broken down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as already mentioned it allows the beer to drop clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding time to lager 3-4 weeks at 3C should provide time for the clean up to occur once primary fermentation has reached 1-2 points off final gravity and you have done your diacetyl rest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to leave it for months, but this can depend on the strain of yeast used and the higher the OG the longer the lager, so with a 1065 OG you may leave it 3 months, and some yeasts produce far more sulphur compounds than others and require longer to remove them from the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T16:07:44.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T17:39:30.083" Score="2" ViewCount="605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed an American lager, Jamil's &quot;what most folks call beer&quot; on Saturday 1/9.  My Gravity was on target at 1.046 and I added a smack pack of Wyeast Pilsen Lager.  I added it to 68 degree wort and then placed in fridge to ferment at 50 degrees.  I am seeing very little action from the airlock, not sure how much I should see as this is my first lager.  My volume in fermenter is about 6 gallons.  I will take a gravity reading on 1/13.  If the gravity has not dropped much, would you recommend waiting a week and taking another reading, that would be 10 days into fermentation?  Pitching an additional smack pack now because I did not pitch enough to start?  Thanks for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12722" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T02:27:07.450" Title="Under pitched lager?" Tags="|yeast|lager|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16805" CreationDate="2016-01-11T20:19:47.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to go off in another direction, but EZ could you elaborate on your statement that a cooler tun will achieve better results.  I brew in a 70 quart crawfish pot with basket.  Drop all the grains in a mesh bag and drop it in the correct temp water.  Check temp every 15 minutes, depending on outside temperature may relight burner once during the process.  Just wondering what you meant by better?  MLAS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12722" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T20:19:47.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16830" CreationDate="2016-01-12T01:11:36.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally you pitch twice as much lager yeast as you do ales. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 18° drop could have shocked the yeast a bit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;All is not lost&lt;/em&gt; bring the fermentaion temp up to the recommended high limit of your yeast strain (check wyeast site) to get the yeast woke up.  Then you can nurse it to the lower primary temp range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The under pitch may make more esters than desired, so secondary may take longer to clean it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do all temp changes at 1° per hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in the future, check the use by date on the yeast. Most manufactures claim 50% viability at experation time. This effects your pitch rate greatly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T02:07:44.177" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T02:07:44.177" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16789" CreationDate="2016-01-12T04:14:50.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like my home made sweet potato malt ( a recipe from when Costa Rica faced a sugar shortage over 100 years ago). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cocoa, Black Cherry Extract, molasses, black licorice, English black patent  Malt, English Chocolate Malt, Honey, Maple syrup, coffee, coconut... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots fun stuff to throw in your porters and stouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13136" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T04:14:50.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16601" CreationDate="2016-01-12T13:42:41.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using a malt extract then there isn't really much you can do to make an unfermentable wort.  Warm it up, it will start fermenting.  It helps to have one of those stick on thermometers on the side of your fermentation vessle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T13:42:41.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16601" CreationDate="2016-01-12T14:14:19.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As they have concluded, airlock was giving a false positive for non fermination.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Review&lt;/strong&gt; No airlock action. Causes: dry airlock, no c02 generation, &lt;em&gt;bad fermentor seal&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Visual&lt;/strong&gt; pictures go a long way, since you did open the fermentor ( not recomended) a pic may have let a member identify krausen line, and confirm fermentaion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T14:14:19.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16837" CreationDate="2016-01-12T18:13:34.880" Score="2" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have doubt with a friend. Right now, when we brew we get the hops from the freezer, weight and add to the boiling wort &lt;strong&gt;at the same moment&lt;/strong&gt; that they are needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking if it's OK to weight &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; the hops just before the wort boils and leave them in tuppers in the same room as where we're brewing (which at this point it's hot &amp;amp; humid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend says that it's not good for the hops and prefers to do it at the moment. I think it doesn't affect in any noticeable way and prefer doing the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question: will my way affect the hops in a noticeable way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13151" LastEditorUserId="13151" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T18:24:57.260" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:25:07.730" Title="Leaving hops out freezer for an hour" Tags="|hops|hop-utilization|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16836" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:12:42.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you won't notice a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While alpha acids and precious volitiles fade with age and air exposure. You won't register any difference with the limited time you're talking about. I would wrap them in foil or use a zip lock, to prevent contamination that may not get sterilized (whirlpool additions), and at least refrigerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo from Coachella Valley Brewing Co. Preparing for a brew of their signature IPA , Monumentous. All weighed out and waiting in the walk in cooler.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z6q3x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T20:25:07.730" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:25:07.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T02:01:32.323" Score="0" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my first small batch 1 gal IPA. After I pitched my yeast I had some blow off (as was expected) but it only lasted about a day, then I attached my airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A week into into the brew it was barely bubbling and continued until 2 days before I was going to bottle. Now it is cloudy and bubbling very rapidly but has no foam on top of the surface. Is it possible that I have messed up somewhere along the line and it has started to carbonate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a temperature problem and it is now just reaching the right temp, how long should I leave it before harm is done? Or is it too late?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13153" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T10:24:56.783" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T14:33:00.887" Title="Is my beer carbonating while in primary fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16838" CreationDate="2016-01-13T04:12:26.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Relax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated yes your beer is carbonating during all stages of fermentaion, as c02 and alcohol is by product from yeast consuming sugars. But the beer won't hold the carbonation since it's not in a sealed container, nor should it be (it's not recommended for a novice brewer, but can be done). So the beer should be &quot;flat&quot; during fermentaion, as in not holding c02 pressure. Some krausen foam is normal early on, but this falls back in and c02 is still produced without making foam for the rest of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7-14 days is generally a primary fermentation duration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7-14+ days for secondary. This stage is done to remove the beer from the floculated yeast in the primary fermentor. Allowing the yeast in suspension to clean up the beer and for that yeast and other particulates to settle out. Making a cleaner clearer beer. If you have air lock activity, it's not done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: it is normal for the krausen head to fall back it as the yeast starts to floculate, but fermentation is far from over. You will still see almost violent churning still with no foam, until it slows and settles to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T14:33:00.887" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T14:33:00.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12127" CreationDate="2016-01-13T15:34:22.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 Stages for Fermentation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Puting times on the stages differ with each batch and shouldn't be held to a strict schedule.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Primary&lt;/strong&gt; This is your first fermenting vessle, and where the most active yeast activity is and most if not all fermentable sugars are consumed. Primary is done once the yeast has floculated and settled to the bottom. For lagers when yeast is starting to settle out you raise temp for a diacetyl rest, last two days of primary. This is not needed for Ales.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Secondary&lt;/strong&gt; This is your second fermenting vessle, you move your beer to. You want to leave all the trub in the primary, racking only the clear beer into secondary. This is important because at this stage nutrients and sugars are minimal, and you want yeast to eat up the phenols they made in primary and not their dead friends. Secondary is your cleaning and clearing stage and where dry hopping and other spice addition are done. Secondary is complete when there is no more airlock action, and the beer is clear. More time can mellow fusel alcohols and other harsh flavors. At this point your beer is done, and only lacking carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation is achieved by bottle conditioning, or force carbonation (kegging). &lt;em&gt;Carbonation can be done in secondary but requires a special fermentor and counter pressure kegging or bottling&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T15:34:22.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16842" CreationDate="2016-01-13T17:40:45.140" Score="8" ViewCount="13564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't found a global agreement on these topics. Let's suppose that the yeast is American (such as Safale US-05). Then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Which is the ideal (primary) fermentation temperature for an IPA and why?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Which is the ideal temperature for an IPA placed in secondary with dry hopping and why?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13155" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T05:50:44.970" Title="Fermentation temperature for an IPA" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|ipa|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16841" CreationDate="2016-01-13T19:25:01.780" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most Ales do well at 68°F primary, to limit phenols and undesirable esters made by yeast during growth phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary can go up to the higher end of recommended temp of a strain since there isn't much left for yeast to feed on and it's at this time the yeast consume those byproducts made in primary. So the higher temp encourages yeast metabolism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no adjustments needed for an IPA. It should be treated as any other Ale for ideal yeast conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Us-05 has an ideal range of 59°F-71.6°F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each yeast has its own esters, if you want to accentuate them, it is controlled by temp. Warmer generally gives more esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T19:46:22.070" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T19:46:22.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T20:21:04.210" Score="2" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a delicious Oktoberfest that came out flat. The lady at AHS said to add 4 grains of champagne yeast to the bottle, since the FG was 1.042 and it tasted very sweet. She said not to let it ferment room temperature forever, that it may burst in about 10 days.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy at Soco homebrew corroborated, and said that these yeast rarely die and will eat sugars down to right under 1.0 gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also heard that fermentation slows down after 5-6 days, and I saw my blowoff valve with almost no activity before bottling. I assumed that was normal since it's supposed to slow down. I ask&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How do you know if your yeast is completely dead and there won't be any activity in bottle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you determine you need more yeast, and your beer is already over 6.5% (if ale yeast isn't a good option), how do you add yeast to carb it without bursting bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 gallon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG (12/5/2015): 1.092&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bottled 12/23/2015:&#xA;  normal amount of melted sugar added to 5 gallon bucket, stirred&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG (12/23/2015): unknown before bottling this day (I was out of town)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG of a bottled beer (1/5/2016): 1.042&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expected OG: 1.080&#xA;Expected FG: 1.040&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only answers I've gotten so far are &quot;just buy a keg&quot;. Thank you :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13154" LastEditorUserId="13154" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T22:09:36.197" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T14:12:38.590" Title="how do you add yeast during bottling stage and ensure it won't burst?" Tags="|yeast|bottling|carbonation|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16843" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:24:18.960" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine anyone suggesting bottling at a FG of 1.042&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would return them to the fermenter and allow fermintation to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are bottle bombs. Be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many yeasts don't survive at 6.5% ABV, but there are plenty that do. Wine yeasts for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 1.042 we would call that a stalled or stuck fermentation, and a more tolerant yeast can be pitched to pick it up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update - Assuming your target FG was 1.040, that would suggest unfermentable sugar adjuncts and a SG of 1.042 after priming sugars would be ok to bottle.  Without adding a new yeast, take one of your bottles, enclose it in something safe like an igloo cooler, and let it get to priming temp 75°F for 2 weeks and see if it carbonates. Only do this if you can verify that most of that 1.042 is unfermentable sugar like lactos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T14:12:38.590" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T14:12:38.590" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16734" CreationDate="2016-01-13T22:16:50.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just read this and got to thinking.  Would the DMS be the off flavor that makes me think all of my lighter beers tasted similar and not quite right?  I boil with the lid on and now reading this I may have figured out why the off flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12722" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T22:16:50.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16841" CreationDate="2016-01-13T22:32:02.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't an ideal temp for any of this.  There is a recommended range offered by the manufacturer to help guide the end user towards a higher degree of success that something will ferment.  As for US-05 yeast, I've heard of people using it at weird temps outside the &quot;recommended&quot; range and having success.  But success for them may be different than success for you or me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal temp is what works for you.  Some people may like to ferment warmer or cooler due to the flavors they get.  As for dry hopping, its still a moving target dependent on preference.  Some say cool, some say warmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing can't be saddled into set numbers.  Its about brewing an IPA a few times and seeing what works best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T22:32:02.723" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16841" CreationDate="2016-01-14T13:42:16.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreement with the two answers so far from EvilZymurgist and brewchez, but to address the dry hopping portion of the question: you should dry hop basically at fermentation temps, or, at least, not at cold-crash/serving temps, to maximize hop extraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T14:10:40.443" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T14:10:40.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16850" CreationDate="2016-01-14T16:07:06.077" Score="1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone describe the general process you manage the levels of wild yeast in air? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking have a maltose solution exposed and measure the change in specific gravity of it over time while opening/closing airflow from your vents and changing the settings on those large air filters for people with allergies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13154" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T17:05:08.790" Title="how do sour brewers manage their local wild yeast in the air?" Tags="|yeast|sour|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16849" CreationDate="2016-01-14T17:05:08.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally the wort is put in a cold ship over night to inoculate . This is a large shallow vat to maximize air exposure for spontanuous fermintation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once wort is inoculated the growth phase happens pretty fast, and the brewer is happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any method outside of a lab to test if there is X many yeast cells in Y volume of air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these famous wild strains have been isolated for traditional pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T17:05:08.790" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2016-01-14T20:28:05.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the method described by Dogfish Heads Sam Calagione in the book &lt;em&gt;Extreme Brewing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Method is to do a fruit addition and rest during the wort chill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chill to 170° and hold for 20 minutes. The book has a nice road map for most popular fruits and their slight temp and time differences. This method is nice as it sanitizes the fruit but doesn't cook it and let's the fruit contribute to the fermentables and giving more fruit profile than a secondary frozen addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried the method once but unfortunately I had a defective fermentor and never got a taste.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/muJL2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T20:34:10.540" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T20:34:10.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16853" CreationDate="2016-01-14T22:27:05.377" Score="2" ViewCount="556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a 15.5 keggle from AIH and I'm wondering how I could provide markings for my liquid volume other than a sight glass.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen some ideas about marking a mash paddle or a flat tip punch.  Does anyone recommend any of those methods or does anyone have a better solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13126" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T23:51:17.373" Title="How to tell volume of liquid in a Keggle without a sight glass?" Tags="|equipment|kettle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16852" CreationDate="2016-01-14T23:33:24.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have this keg style 5, 7.75, 10 are marked by the bottom rib, middle weld, and top rib&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t05G0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paddle / spoon marks on a keggle rely on hitting that small flat spot in the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen people etch the inside with DIY etching made from a 12v battery charger. There is a trick to the masking using stickers and nail polish. Worth a Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a pot done with a 9v battery.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=463099&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=463099&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T23:51:17.373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T23:51:17.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6553" CreationDate="2016-01-15T04:32:53.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just corked a screw top wine bottle with no problem whatsoever. We also uncorked the bottle with no issues at all.  We will definitely be corking larger amounts of screw tops in the future!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to everyone for the great advice on this topic as well, happy winemaking!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13158" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2022-01-12T19:12:24.557" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T19:12:24.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16400" CreationDate="2016-01-15T14:59:08.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How much Fermaid-O do you need?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of required nutrient addition is based on your starting gravity. For an easier calculation convert to Brix and figure out your target mg of nitrogen per liter using the following as a starting point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;21°Bx = 200 mg N/L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;23°Bx = 250 mg N/L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;25°Bx = 300 mg N/L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;27°Bx = 350 mg N/L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1g/gal of Fermaid-O = 50ppm (or mg) of N/L effectiveness&#xA;(always measure by weight, invest in a good grams scale)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meadmaderight.com/info.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.meadmaderight.com/info.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should you substitute?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more of a personal question.  I've used DAP/Ferment-K for years.  I've also debated the same thing you are.  I think I will make the switch when I run out of Ferment-K / DAP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the advantage is: &quot;TOSNA uses only Fermaid-O because of its organic form of nitrogen which the yeast is easily able to metabolize throughout the entire fermentation process, unlike the inorganic form of nitrogen provided by the use of DAP and/or Fermaid-K.&quot; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meadmaderight.com/home.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T14:59:08.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16841" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:17:46.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Safale US-05 often and go with a temperature of 66-68 degrees. I keep a digital thermometer in my brew/fermentation bag and throw in a couple of small frozen water bottles. I check it about every 12 hours or so and once I get to 68 degrees I replace the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as most have already said, that works for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T16:17:46.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16794" CreationDate="2016-01-15T18:04:48.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the brew bag &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.morebeer.com/products/cool-brewing-insulated-fermentation-bag.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I throw a couple of 12oz frozen water bottles in there, and it drops the temp from room temp about 4-5 degrees. I switch them out 1-2 times a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, since I'm only doing ales, that works as I keep the temperature about 66-68 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T18:04:48.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16860" CreationDate="2016-01-15T21:45:40.923" Score="1" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;it's my first post in here. I've just done my first batch of weissbier (or any other). It turned out quite alright so I'd like to repeat it to check I wasn't lucky. &#xA;However, since it was from a kit I'd like to buy the ingredients in bulk from elsewhere rather than buying their £10 ingredients-only kit. &#xA;The following link is the ingredients kit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewcraftbeer.co.uk/wheat-dreams-bavarian-hefeweizen-25-p.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewcraftbeer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking for some help on the (some) type of crushed grain I can try to buy, for instance, from here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewCat&amp;amp;catId=17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;maltmiller&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in order to brew another weissbier. Perhaps it's not as straightforward as I think though... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13162" LastEditorUserId="13162" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T22:36:36.377" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T10:07:56.507" Title="Hefeweissen ingredients question" Tags="|beer|all-grain|small-batch|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16794" CreationDate="2016-01-15T22:22:47.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can put a wet tshirt or towel over your fermenter and have the evaporation cool the fermenter. Like with the ice water bucket, you'll have to check back on it every once in a while and change the tshirt or towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T22:22:47.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16858" CreationDate="2016-01-16T13:51:29.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's basically as straightforward as you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weissbier/weizen recipes vary, but you're looking at 40-60% wheat malt, with the balance being mostly pilsner or pale/2-row malt, maybe a touch of carapils for residual sugars/body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest thing to note is that crushed grain as a much more limited lifetime than whole grain that you crush on demand. But properly stored (vacuum sealed bags in the freezer) you can probably keep it around for a couple-few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T13:51:29.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16858" CreationDate="2016-01-16T14:14:42.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under German purity law any beer labeled Weiss or Weizen must be at least 50% malted wheat in its grain bill. That it purely trivial for a homebrewer, do what your palate likes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with jsled, there's nothing like milling your grain on brewday to add to the experience, but a mill does have a pretty big initial investment. ($200 us)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to find a Local Home Brew Supply store to get your grain. They usually have a mill on hand for customer use. It's recommended to use milled grain fresh. I've seen varied opinions on how long it will keep but 2 weeks is a general max for properly stored milled grain. Most kits are milled close to shipping date, but you really never know unless you mill it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T20:01:08.207" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T20:01:08.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T15:25:33.943" Score="1" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;We washed yeast from our last beer and now it's sitting in multiple containers in the fridge. The mixture is mostly water with some yeast at the bottom. Is it acceptable practice to combine the yeast in one container and have the area left filled with the water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3239" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T17:49:00.383" Title="Yeast washed, combine containers?" Tags="|reusing-yeast|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16862" CreationDate="2016-01-16T17:49:00.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you practice good sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decant the water off and combine to save space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T17:49:00.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16867" CreationDate="2016-01-16T20:36:39.267" Score="3" ViewCount="2510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am flavoring my first beer in a new, 5 gallon oak barrel. This batch is a full 5 gallon batch, but is it ok to put smaller sizes in it? For example, can I put 2.5 gallons in without any harmful effects? I'm thinking the oak flavors will flavor the beer fairly quickly (i.e., 2 to 5 days), so having more surface exposed to oxygen will not be a huge problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12524" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T13:02:25.727" Title="Do I need to completely fill my barrel?" Tags="|barrel|batch-size|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T21:05:24.380" Score="1" ViewCount="522" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a session stout about 4 months ago, and left it in the fermentor for two weeks. The FG was 1.012 one week in, and I checked every few days until 2 weeks in, and the FG remained at 1.012. I added enough corn sugar to add 2.0 volumes of CO2, and spent 120 seconds stirring it slowly into the bottling bucket. The bottles have been conditioning at room temperature during the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled out a bottle the other night and found it to be too carbonated. I poured some into a test jar and waited 3 days before measuring its gravity to ensure that carbonation wouldn't alter the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final gravity of this sample was 1.010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm straining to see the cause of this. The FG remained at 1.012 for a full week before bottling, the fermentor was under perfect temperature control, and I used an adequate yeast starter, so it is hard to think that the yeast did not attenuate fully.  I spent 2 minutes stirring in the corn sugar, so it is hard to think that the sugar was not evenly distributed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vitals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;9 # Marris Otter&#xA;1 # Roasted Barley&#xA;OG: 1.047&#xA;Wyeast 1028, Yeast Starter 1.5L 1.035&#xA;East Kent Holdings 1.75oz 4.5% AA&#xA;Fermented at 65*F in a chest freezer, raised to 70*F after four days&#xA;Time in fermentor before bottling: 2 weeks&#xA;Final gravity prior to bottling: 1.012&#xA;Final gravity 3 months and 2 weeks after bottling: 1.010&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T13:33:33.603" Title="FG of bottled condition beer lower than FG of fermented beer" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|specific-gravity|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16865" CreationDate="2016-01-17T13:04:24.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double check all your gravity readings and measurements of priming sugar, considering temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SG's you noted could be off If temperature wasn't factored in the hydrometer readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The over carbonation would suggest an overdose of priming sugar, your 5gal batch at 68° would use only 3oz for 2.0 co2 volumes for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the bottle conditioning was warmer than your secondary allowing the yeast to be more active and attenuating more than just the corn sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T13:33:33.603" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T13:33:33.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16864" CreationDate="2016-01-17T13:08:31.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood barrels should be full or they will leak. The dry areas may open up allowing contamination from the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent oxidation when racking to barrels the hydrating / sanitizing fluid is purged from the barrel with c02, so there is no oxygen exposure at all when racking to the barrel. This is good practice with any secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barrel still needs to be filled though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T16:22:49.140" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T16:22:49.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7310" CreationDate="2016-01-18T00:53:58.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick idea which works for me. After bottled. when serving the beer. Pint glass put 1/4 teaspoon of granulated white sugar (regular sugar u put in coffee). Pour your beer into glass n sugar.Play with this to your liking. Works well for my unbearably bitter IPA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13167" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T13:56:53.793" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T13:56:53.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16864" CreationDate="2016-01-18T14:01:31.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your thinking is correct.  Even with one day that extra surface area will oxidize your beer.  A better option for a partially sized batch would be oak cubes or chips in a normal carboy/fermentor.  Save the barrel for a full 5 gallon batch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good practice is to brew more than 5 gallons to be sure you can nearly fill it.  Or to brew 5 gallons slightly stronger in gravity and bitterness, so you can top off with some water if need be in the barrel later on.  Just be sure to use boiled water so its sanitized and de-oxygenated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T17:22:11.503" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T17:22:11.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16878" CreationDate="2016-01-18T19:05:35.513" Score="2" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going to add one can (49oz) of Vintners Harvest Peach Puree to secondary and curious if/how much this will raise gravity.  The nutritional label states the can contains 190 grams of sugar, but not sure how much of this is accessible to the yeast.  Thanks in advance for your feedback!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11963" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T17:16:47.200" Title="How much free (ie, fermentable) suger is contained in canned fruit puree and how does this affect gravity?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|fruit|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14605" CreationDate="2016-01-18T20:51:38.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about this... Use your carboy handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tighten the wing nut so the handle is hard to move.  Adjust it to hold the Bung down like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W09qH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W09qH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;carboy Handle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.clebrewer.com/2014/10/8-ways-to-use-the-carboy-handle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;8 Ways to use a carboy handle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6718" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T20:51:38.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10595" CreationDate="2016-01-19T12:39:11.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at captainbrew.com Priming Sugar Calculator &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.captainbrew.com/priming-sugar-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. You can also create recipes, adjust gravity or bitterness, scale a recipe, create brew sessions and many more. &#xA;There are also other calculators included like Yeast Pitching Rate, Keg Carbonation, ABV , Sparge Water, Washed Yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T12:39:11.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16864" CreationDate="2016-01-19T13:02:25.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best to fill up the barrel to avoid oxidation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T13:02:25.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="615" CreationDate="2016-01-19T13:05:17.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.captainbrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;captainbrew.com&lt;/a&gt;. You can create recipes, adjust gravity or bitterness, scale a recipe, create brew sessions and many more. &#xA;There are also other calculators included like Yeast Pitching Rate, Priming Sugar, Keg Carbonation, ABV , Sparge Water, Washed Yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T13:05:17.220" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-01-19T13:05:17.220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12291" CreationDate="2016-01-19T13:22:44.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have created the recipe for you using captainbrew.com. You can view it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.captainbrew.com/view-recipe/104&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. You can clone the recipe and substitute Pale 2 row with DME, trying to keep the percentages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T13:22:44.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7310" CreationDate="2016-01-19T13:29:35.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest aging the beer, and if that doesnt work, blend it with a nice, sweet, malty amber ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T13:29:35.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16459" CreationDate="2016-01-19T15:50:16.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main point of conical fermenters is to allow all the sediment to be funneled and drained out the bottom.  With a conical fermenter, it's easier to separate the beer from the sediment so less beer is wasted.  As you noted, the bottommost valve is for drawing out the yeast and sediment, and the upper valve can be used to draw out the beer to a serving tank or bottling unit while leaving the sediment behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another benefit to conical fermenters is yeast management.  If you will be reusing yeast from one brew to another, the cone allows you to collect the yeast, of course, but the cone is also the best place for short term storage until you're ready to re-pitch.  The newly flocculated sediment remains as clean as you can hope for (vs. anything but brand new yeast) when it hasn't been touched, and the beer environment has the nutrients and pH to keep the yeast healthy, at least for a few days.  If you leave it for too long it does begin to degrade and can aversely affect the beer, but here too the cone is beneficial because the yeast surface touching the beer is minimized.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10688" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T15:50:16.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16870" CreationDate="2016-01-19T17:16:47.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing how its puree &gt;90% of it will be accessible to the yeast. Whether it all can be fermentable is a different question due to yeast health and the types of sugar (mostly fructose likely) in the fruit/puree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the change in gravity its not going to be significant.&#xA;1 lb of table sugar in one gallon would be ~1.046SG&#xA;190grams is about 42% of a pound.&#xA;So 190grams in 1 gallon would be ~1.019SG&#xA;If you are putting that 190grams in a 5 gallon batch then its 1.019 a 5th of that.  So closer to an increase of 1.004.  If you beer was originally 1.050, you could calculate your ABV as if it was starting at 1.054.  But that's not totally accurate because you don't know if you are truly going to ferment it all (likely not) and I'm making an assumption and comparing the sugar in the puree to table sugar to come up with an approximate idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone my challenge my ballpark math but I think for this exercise and the +/- error in making the measurements it works out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T17:16:47.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16083" CreationDate="2016-01-19T21:14:33.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an email discussion about this with John Palmer. I am paraphrasing here, but basically he said that in primary the head space isn't an issue at all (see jsled's explanation which is spot on). It's only in secondary where it is a problem (oxidation). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course he also said that while in the past many brewers espoused racking to secondary, he was of the opinion that most beers do NOT require/need it, and that the risk could outweigh the gain. Again, he said most, not all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, that was good enough for me. I normally make 3GL batches anyway, as I do have a couple of 3GL carboys. However, sometimes I ferment my brews in a 5 or 6GL carboy with no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13003" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T13:52:52.900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T13:52:52.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16083" CreationDate="2016-01-20T04:18:58.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Real question is how big do you need to have X final beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you keg it's generally 4.75-5gal you want at the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the style and fermentaion. I've found you can hit 5 gallons easily by brewing 6 pretty easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carboys are at capacity at the shoulder, I use 6 or 6.5s primary, and 5 gal secondary usually. &lt;em&gt;The idea is to allow headspace for kreuasen to expand and fall back in without exiting the primary carboy&lt;/em&gt;, this is not an issue in secondary and can be filled much higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can eliminate O2 exposure completely in secondary buy filling secondary carboy with starsan and purging it out with c02 by using a sealed racking cane. The one I use has a stainless tube, orange seal, and sanitary filter. Once empty cover with foil, and use the foil to seal the hose when filling with your primary beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5LPs4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SiUad.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Dopplebock this morning. As you can see, I should have used 6.5' instead of 6g carboys here, and maybe some nofoam.  I did lose a little volume, the Bubblers were 3inches deep to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T13:49:53.340" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T13:49:53.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16865" CreationDate="2016-01-20T10:04:26.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Corn sugar will add a bit of alcohol, which will affect your reading. That is my guess as to why the FG in the bottle is lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T10:04:26.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16858" CreationDate="2016-01-20T10:07:56.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a few recipes that you can look at for help: &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmithrecipes.com/searchrecipe?uid=&amp;amp;term=Weizen&amp;amp;submit.x=13&amp;amp;submit.y=9&amp;amp;sort=Best+Match&amp;amp;allgrain=1&amp;amp;rated=4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beersmithrecipes.com/searchrecipe?uid=&amp;amp;term=Weizen&amp;amp;submit.x=13&amp;amp;submit.y=9&amp;amp;sort=Best+Match&amp;amp;allgrain=1&amp;amp;rated=4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T10:07:56.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16353" CreationDate="2016-01-20T14:10:31.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry yeast is already matured past the aerobic phase at packaging. Your pitch amount was about at max culture population so there was probably very little growth phase esters generated. It's very possible it completely fermented in 24-48 hours. I'm sure your cider will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you don't have a hydrometer yet, pull a sample off for a taste, I'm sure it's very dry with little to no sweetness indicating its done. Some aging may be needed to melow fusel alcohols. If it's too dry and tart you can backsweeten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Airlock. If it's cracked it may not bubble, but I think your fermentaion is done and wouldn't have much action anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T14:10:31.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2016-01-20T16:53:28.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of YouTube videos on how to use the Cool Brewing Fermentation cooler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llLlrB4Kbt4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cool Brewing Fermentation Cooler - How To Use Video!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nt7Rl08G9J4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cool Brewing Fermentation Cooler (YouTube).&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13183" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T18:22:05.903" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T18:22:05.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T11:54:58.427" Score="1" ViewCount="1982" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first cider attempt. It's day three and see no activity in the airlock. So this is what I did. I juiced 20kg of apples and got just over 3 gallons of juice. I took a gravity reading of 1.050 at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to stick to a more organic method so I pasteurised the juice at 180/185°C for 45 minutes, at this point I added 13.5oz of brown sugar as I wanted to raise the specific gravity to 1.060. Then I transferred it into the primary fermenter. (5 gallon capacity)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After letting it cool to 80°C, I added the yeast starter (Lalvin EC-1118, prepared 30 minutes prior as per the instructions on the packet.) I sealed the lid, with airlock in a closest, which has a temperature ranging 15/20°C. Day three, no activity in the airlock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what might be going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paul&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13187" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T15:09:53.757" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T15:09:53.757" Title="Cider not fermenting" Tags="|cider|primary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16885" CreationDate="2016-01-21T13:21:08.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dead Yeast&lt;/strong&gt; check expectation date. When you did your &lt;em&gt;&quot;30 min starter&quot;&lt;/em&gt; was there foaming? If not it's likely the yeast was dead. &lt;em&gt;&quot;80°C&quot;&lt;/em&gt; will kill yeast. If you added your yeast to 176°F cider, it's dead. Repitch your cider. Providing that was a typo, here's some other possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bad Fermentor Seal&lt;/strong&gt; if there is a bad seal, the air lock won't function properly. This won't change fermentation though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maybe Nothing Wrong&lt;/strong&gt; cider can ferment quickly and generally only leaves small signs it happened. If the bell in the air lock is lifted, chances are good it fermented. An other sign, is a lot more yeasts on the bottom than you pitched. Pull a sample for a taste test, or SG reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T13:27:29.577" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T13:27:29.577" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T22:55:57.553" Score="5" ViewCount="1176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a 5 gallon batch of IPA beer, the OG was 1.067 and 2 weeks later it only dropped to 1036. A stuck fermentation I was told after I transferred it from my fast fermenter to two 3 gallon kegs. I forced carbonated both and tried the beer a few days later. Way to sweet for my taste. My question/idea is to use Co2 to prime the fermenter then transfer from the keg to fermenter via Co2,  re pitch champagne yeast and hope to dry it out. Would their be enough oxygen in the beer for the yeast to do it's job? Would adding yeast nutrient to the beer help? Newbie questions I know... Thanks, Mark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13189" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T12:25:46.177" Title="Re ferment beer after transferring to keg and force carbonating it" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|fermenter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16891" CreationDate="2016-01-22T00:18:34.143" Score="3" ViewCount="942" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do people with conical (or other sealed) fermenters avoid sucking liquid from the airlock into the vessel when they take samples or remove trub through the bottom valve?  Do they just remove a plug from the top and let air in to replace the liquid volume that's been lost?  If so, doesn't that cause a contamination/oxidation risk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12297" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T20:11:57.837" Title="Suckback and sampling from conical fermenters" Tags="|equipment|sanitation|airlock|fermenter|conical-fermenter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16892" CreationDate="2016-01-22T00:37:11.363" Score="0" ViewCount="1074" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my Hefeweizen with a OG of 1.054 and used Wyeast 3068.  The wort was well aerated but after 3 weeks my gravity is still 1.020 which seems a little high. The gravity reading I took a week ago was also 1.020.  Could this be because liquid yeast has a much lower cell count then dry yeast?  Should I pitch more yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12563" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T02:42:18.983" Title="Hefeweizen final gravity too high" Tags="|final-gravity|wheat-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16887" CreationDate="2016-01-22T02:12:01.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fortunately dry yeast has matured past the aerobic stage for dehydration and packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will be ok to transfer to a fermenter and try a repitch of dry yeast with out oxygen. This will limit cell reproduction but you shouldn't need a large colony to finish the fermentaion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try a single pack of an ale yeast first, as champaign yeast will consume all fermentables and leave it very dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you need to identify what caused the stuck fermentation. Many things could cause this, but the worst case in your situation would be the mash temp was above 158° making a lot of a hard to ferment sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T02:12:01.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16888" CreationDate="2016-01-22T02:26:31.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a trick to pulling a small sample or drawing yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a 1&quot; blow off tube of ample length to reach the bottom of a bubbler jar on the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The volume in the tube is enough to draw a small sample, as you draw the sample you will see the sanitizer suck up in the tube, don't let it crest the arch and you're ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a large draw you can use a sanitary air filter in place of the airlock to prevent contamination, minimal air is ok, but you can also attach c02 to replace the lost volume if worried about o2 exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T02:26:31.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16889" CreationDate="2016-01-22T02:42:18.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your brew notes, as many details as possible are appreciated and limits the speculations in answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solutions differ for many causes of the stuck fermentaion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to guess, it may have got too cold, raise temp to 75°F. Or the mash was above 158° and the yeast ignored the more complex sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T02:42:18.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16887" CreationDate="2016-01-22T12:25:46.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have largely found the &quot;miracle&quot; of champagne yeast to be a myth. It hasn't worked well for me.  The failings of pitching dried champagne yeast is primarily due to two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, champagne yeast prefers to ferment the simpler sugars found in grape must.  A stuck ferment in a malt based wort generally has a higher ration of complex sugars to the simple sugars.  The beer yeast already fermented the easy stuff.  Champagne yeast, therefore, will have a tough time with those sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, a partially fermented wort has experienced a drop in pH and an increase in alcohol.  Most any yeast, champagne or brewers, will have a tough time going from a dormant state (dried or liquid) to a fermentative state under those conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen that champagne yeast will get things moving again, but I have yet to see something ferment out with champagne yeast.  It usually still will finish several points above where it total attenuation could have been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better approach is to get a 500ml to 1L starter going.  Wait until it is very active visually and pitch that active starter in.  Picking up a little oxygen at this point incidentally from pitching the starter won't hurt much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do this with more of the same yeast already used, or chose a yeast with a higher alcohol tolerance than the one previously pitched.  Before pitching the active starter I'd recommend warming the stalled beer up to 68F-70F if it isn't there already. (which is usually a better place to start to unstuck a ferment than pitching new yeast, IMO)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T12:25:46.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16897" CreationDate="2016-01-23T01:00:13.363" Score="3" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 15 litre, 3.9 gallon batch of hard cider (I juiced the apples myself and lost the will to live after 20kg).  Should I get a 3 gallon or 5 gallon carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that when moving the cider to a carboy for secondary fermentation I shouldn't leave a pocket of air. Will using a 5 gallon carboy and topping up with a litre of water greatly dilute my cider? Is it best to go for a 3 gallon? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for you help in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paul&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13187" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T15:09:16.357" Title="Carboy size 3 or 5 gallon? please" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|carboy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6625" CreationDate="2016-01-23T01:34:08.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;UV wavelengths do not penetrate glass.  It is more likely that visible wavelengths catalyze photodegrading reactions of the dissolved organic carbon, the stuff leaching out of the hops included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13194" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T01:34:08.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16896" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-23T03:18:41.560" Score="2" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a brew where Rye malt is a considerable component of the grist. I am trying to predict my mash pH by taking the weighted lab wort pH contributions of each of my malts, and accounting for residual alkalinity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that rye malt, like wheat malt has tendency opposite to barley, in that it increases pH. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find a malt analysis or other reliable information that would give even an estimate of lab wort pH for rye malt. Does anyone happen to know this value (even roughly?) or have a resource that might be useful? The supplier of the rye malt in this case is Canada Malting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T12:21:40.003" Title="What is the lab wort pH of Rye Malt" Tags="|mash|rye|ph|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16894" CreationDate="2016-01-23T03:30:09.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Go with a 5 gallon primary, this is the one you want ample head space in, secondary filling to the neck minimizes O2 exposure. O2 exposure is only an issue once you have alcohol in the cider, there are several ways to minimize this in secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I wouldn't dilute with water, it will only lower the OG reducing the final ABV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T03:30:09.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2016-01-23T06:58:26.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 cup of spent grain 60% wheat 40% barley...2 cups of bread flour..1 1/2 tbs dry yeast...1 cup warm water..1/2 tbs sugar..2 tbs olive oil...1/2 tbs salt..mix water,yeast,sugar and 3-4 tbs of flour..let sit for 10 mins..add remaining flour,grains and salt. Once yeast is active mix with dry ingredients..knead and let proof...punch down dough and form a loaf..bake 350 for 35-45 mins..enjoy!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13196" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T06:58:26.980" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-01-23T06:58:26.980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2016-01-23T14:28:10.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Surprised this hasn't been covered yet.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make more beer with it&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Many historical breweries suffered from similar low mash efficiencies as home brewers. They would do partygyle mash or at least a second rinse making a lower gravity beer.  A lot of the Belgian abbys still do this, saving the lower gravity beer for themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty easy to get 6 gallons of 1.025 second wort from a 12 gallon batch. Add a little DME or Sugar to bring it up or leave it low gravifty, there are a lot of traditional styles that have 1.030-1.040 OGs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Then the grain is &quot;spent&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your grain is wet and sticky when you're done, your methods can be improved to get more beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T14:28:10.450" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-01-23T14:28:10.450" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16896" CreationDate="2016-01-23T17:25:41.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rye malt is generally similar to wheat with a projected distilled water mash ph of 6.04 for a %100 wheat grist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select &quot;Wheat&quot; in your water profile calculator, and mash ph estimator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T12:21:40.003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T12:21:40.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17041" CreationDate="2016-01-23T17:34:40.300" Score="2" ViewCount="1366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a Flanders red ale and it is nearing the end of primary fermentation. I'm planning to rack it to a carboy and leave it for up to about a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While doing research on the style, I saw various recipes that added everything (yeast and bacteria) to primary and others that used just the yeast for primary and added the bacteria (and Brettanomyces) when racking to secondary. I decided to do the latter for various reasons but I want to clarify that my thinking was on the right track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking was that if I had added the bacteria to primary, there would have been a lot of additional compounds created as they consumed sugars, competing with the yeast. Many of these may be cleaned up during the long fermentation but I imagine the beer would still end up with some signs of that process, and I'm not sure I wanted that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By adding it to secondary, I'm assuming that the beer will come out a bit cleaner but still develop a good amount of sourness (probably a little less but hopefully not much less).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I on track here? Is there anything I'm missing? Overall, what are key differences I'll see between adding the bacteria in secondary instead of primary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T16:21:52.380" Title="Effect of adding bacteria when racking to secondary" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|sour|brettanomyces|pediococcus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16901" CreationDate="2016-01-23T18:10:43.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Souring bacteria die off quickly as the yeast produces alchol in primary fermentation. Adding to secondary will do little as it won't survive long from the alcohol in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brettanomyces Bruxellensis is a yeast and can be added at anytime for varied character contributions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T18:10:43.290" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16888" CreationDate="2016-01-23T20:11:57.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An s-type airlock allows air in, but the liquid remains in the airlock rather than getting sucked in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13197" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T20:11:57.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16906" CreationDate="2016-01-24T15:31:44.760" Score="1" ViewCount="725" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to brewing. I've got the gear and no idea. I'm doing alright with a hard cider at the moment thanks to the support I've received here. So I'm starting to think about my next adventure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to attempt a German Beer, blond rather than dark. Any recipe suggestions for a novice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13187" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T01:26:28.400" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T09:50:07.127" Title="A simple German Beer recipe" Tags="|beer|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16904" CreationDate="2016-01-24T16:50:57.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many Pilsner or Helles recipes only use Pilsen Malt (e.g., 4kg) and one kind of hops (e.g., 30 and 40 grams of Hallertauer pellets). Or try a German wheat beer. A web search will turn up plenty of recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a beginner you probably don't have cooling like a chest freezer for fermentation, but depending on where you live you may have a garage or basement that is cold enough (but not too cold).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T16:50:57.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16904" CreationDate="2016-01-24T17:14:29.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Robert said about cooling. Stay away from &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lagers&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; until you get some experience and most important heating and cooling for lager fermentation. Lagers require a diacetyl rest where you usually need heating in addition to cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Blonde Ale was actually my very first brew. I recommend getting an &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ale&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; extract kit that has some steeping grains to get your feet wet with some actual grains, and how to use brew bags. Then it's an easy step to all grain Brew In A Bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of great books on how to get started. &lt;em&gt;John Palmers How to Brew&lt;/em&gt;, is one of the best for a good over view for the nivice and reference for the advanced brewer a like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T17:14:29.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-24T17:45:41.883" Score="1" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems most recipes out there assume 75 - 80% efficiency*. Seems sensible for homebrewer. but I consistently get 95%. I should feel lucky, but this means that I either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have too much alcohol for the &quot;amount of taste&quot; I get, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have everything too diluted to get proper percentage of alcohol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know for sure why I'm getting this high extraction. &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/16312/12577&quot;&gt;Using way too much water&lt;/a&gt; is a thing of the past, but efficiency did not fall down. As &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/16485/12577&quot;&gt;suggested here&lt;/a&gt; I sparge pretty fast now - but this is limited by my setup, and I even let someone else crush my grain using his crusher. Didn't change a thing. So I give up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;How can I adjust recipes to offset for this?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially for red, brown and dark beers, what to do to get as close to styles as possible with these three:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;alcohol content&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;roasted, coffee, chocolate tastes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can balance general maltiness with hops pretty OK, and my maltiness seems to go up with extract all right, so only the above ones are real problem now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* In a sense used by Brewtarget, that is % of theoretical maximum yield malt can give, not % of malt weight alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T21:30:06.150" Title="How to adjust recipes for high mash / sparge efficiency?" Tags="|all-grain|mash|efficiency|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16909" CreationDate="2016-01-24T18:23:52.703" Score="1" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a batch fermenting that I was planning to dry-hop but decided I wanted to actually increase the bitterness.  I was thinking of doing the following process based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/3383/12609&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; which I think qualifies as something close to krausening (albeit somewhat defeating the historical purpose):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steep specialty grains in a small amount of water (maybe a quart to a half gallon)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doing this instead of using DME is the key thing I'm unsure about, but I have priming sugar already and some extra grains that I was thinking this could be a good use for&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add most (if not all) of the priming sugar I would normally add and bring to a boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add hops that would have been used for dry-hopping and boil for an hour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool, add to bottling bucket, and proceed as normal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any major downsides or oversights in this approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T12:29:43.727" Title="&quot;Krausening&quot; to increase IBU at bottling" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|bittering|krausening|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16908" CreationDate="2016-01-24T21:17:11.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steeping caramel / crystal malts in water may still extract fermentables. As far as I know up to about 30% of what you would get from mash. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-2/steeping-specialty-grains/mechanics-of-steeping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; - it claims that Special B will give out a lot of sugar. If I read the numbers correctly, every 3 grams of steeped Special B will introduce about 1 gram of fermentables. Substitute grams for any unit of mass, doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid adding sugars, you should rather steep very light, base malts, with no starch converted in malting house, or black ones with sugars already burnt past being sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For hops, increasing bitternes is not something you have to do instead of dry hoping for aroma. You can do both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For hop utilization, and  sugar calculations consider adding &quot;normal&quot; sugar &lt;strong&gt;after boil&lt;/strong&gt;, when used hops are already separated. Sugar from specialty malts should be enough for hop utilization chemistry, and losing some sugar with used hop matter will mess with your calculations, too. It will not be a big change, but oh well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Count steeped Special B as priming sugar worth 1/3 mass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can both dry-hop and do your procedure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T21:27:12.680" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T21:27:12.680" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-24T21:24:53.603" Score="3" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say that I have a wine that still contains a substantial amount of sugar. If I start the process of converting the wine to vinegar by exposing it to oxygen, will the sugar continue to be converted to alcohol during this process? Or will the sugar remain even as the wine is converted to vinegar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13201" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T14:12:41.063" Title="What happens to remaining sugar when wine is converted to vinegar?" Tags="|wine|conversion|vinegar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16908" CreationDate="2016-01-25T01:08:12.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term krausen, refers to the head formed during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I'm unclear as to why you would try to make a mini wort batch by steeping grains. The sugars from steeping are mostly unfermentable long chain sugars having not been converted by enzymes as they would in a mash. These will carry through and taste as underattenuation or sweet, offsetting IBU even further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If increasing the IBU post boil is the only goal. Just simmer (low boil) your hops in water for 45 min, that will give maximum alpha extraction. Filter through a coffee filter while hot, and Add priming surgar. Add to your wort once cooled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T12:29:43.727" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T12:29:43.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16933" CreationDate="2016-01-25T01:27:34.973" Score="0" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those who have made one, please describe your most successful attempt at producing a nice tart traditional Berliner. Please include ingredients, but most importantly, process in your response. Prost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastEditorUserId="12317" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T01:58:16.707" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T03:34:39.353" Title="Berliner for the people" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16910" CreationDate="2016-01-25T02:08:03.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vinegar is a result from acetobacter infection. Just leaving it open may not inoculate the wine with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If fermentation was suspended by potassium metabisulfide or the like you may be able to oxygenat and repitch yeast to have all the sugars fermented before attempting to convert to vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T02:08:03.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16907" CreationDate="2016-01-25T02:15:59.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your brewhouse consitantly achieves 95% just use that setting in your recipe/brew software and it will cascade to the grains allowing you to reduce their wieghts to hit a target OG. This will mainly result in a reduction in the base malt, while keeping most specialty grains close to original weights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can estimate by hand, if a recipe is calculated for 70% effeciency but you get 95% you can roughly reduce your base malts by 35% to achiev the target gravity. Concider steeping the full recipe weight of specialty grains, this will extract color and flavor but little sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash efficiency is a calculation only for sugar conversion and extraction from the grains. Higher mash effeciency doesn't effect flavor or color extraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let us know what it is your doing to get 95%, as I've only seen that on commercial systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T13:26:46.993" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T13:26:46.993" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16904" CreationDate="2016-01-25T10:20:06.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend that you purchase &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381926&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewing Classic Styles&lt;/a&gt;. It covers 80+ recipes with lots of details. While you are at it, buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381888&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How To Brew&lt;/a&gt;. That will teach you how to make great beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For recipes, go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmithrecipes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beersmithrecipes.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T10:20:06.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2016-01-25T12:34:50.247" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are sourdough yeast strains that are decades old and they just store them in a cooler&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13207" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T12:34:50.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16910" CreationDate="2016-01-25T14:12:41.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply exposing a wine that was inoculated with wine yeast to oxygen doesn't create acetic acid.  You need to inoculate with some acetic acid bacteria as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetic acid bacteria can ferment both sugars and ethanol to make acetic acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made red wine before, and I have pulled a gallon of partially fermented wine, inoculated with acetobacter and gotten a decent product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a fully fermented wine, it will take more time for the acetobacter to convert just the ethanol to acid.  Seeing as you still have some sugar, I'd pitch some acetobacter and let it go from there.  Consult your local brew shop for the appropriate bacterial strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T14:12:41.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16920" CreationDate="2016-01-25T16:04:16.083" Score="1" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question: what is the best alternative to use instead of White labs yeast WLP545, in order to get the most similar result? Or is there any commercial produced beer using WLP545 that you can grew a culture from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: We have a Belgian style IPA fermentera with WLP545 that we want to bring to a homebrewing competition, we need to brew it in the next couple of weeks but for some reason White Labs have paused their production of WLP545.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="3567" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T17:49:28.287" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T20:34:19.713" Title="Best replacement for WLP545" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16919" CreationDate="2016-01-25T17:05:19.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=136&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=136&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wyeast Adrennes seems to be the best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you save the yeast trub from the WLP545 brew? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T20:34:19.713" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T20:34:19.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16922" CreationDate="2016-01-26T00:04:17.927" Score="2" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it was (potentially) too late I've noticed that I've used the 4L of water for mashing that I should've used for sparging - which was instead 3L. Could this be a problem? The end amount is the same. I've also noticed that the mashing temperature was very stable (probably due to higher water volume). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13162" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T01:10:21.923" Title="Swapped sparge by mash water quantities" Tags="|all-grain|sparge|mashing|small-batch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16921" CreationDate="2016-01-26T01:10:21.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.5 gallon batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should fine. The higher grain to water ratio may result in a slightly high pH but you should still be well in the range for enzymes to do their work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T01:10:21.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16894" CreationDate="2016-01-26T15:09:16.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the primary go with 5 gallons so you have plenty of headspace for any foaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the secondary, i'l split between the 3 gallon carboy and get a 1 gallon jug for the remainder. This way you can keep the headspace to a minimum, and you have extra same batch cider in hand if you need to top off for any reason. Which you will because Apple drops a TON of sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T15:09:16.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4369" CreationDate="2016-01-27T12:48:36.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a quick answer for a homebrew definition of &quot;Bottle Conditioning&quot;.&#xA; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;No&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Not without a lot of extra work and or using gimmick devices.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottle Conditioning&lt;/strong&gt; in homebrew generally means to allow suspended yeast after fermintation to carbonate the beer to a desired c02 volume by feeding it a small amount of fermentable sugar, usually 4oz Corn Sugar for a 5gallon batch. Then bottling to allow the yeast to produce c02.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Commercial Bottle Conditioning&lt;/strong&gt; is typically just aging to allow flavors to meld, producing a sediment free bottle. In some styles live yeast is added like brett, which will still have sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example Little Creatures they don't use the term &lt;em&gt;bottle conditioning&lt;/em&gt; instead they use &lt;em&gt;live-yeast conditioning&lt;/em&gt; which suggests they carbonate in a sealed secondary. In that situation the sediment is left behind before bottling. This is similar to process of kegging, force carbonating, and then bottling giving sediment free beer in bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T12:48:36.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16928" CreationDate="2016-01-27T13:56:30.527" Score="3" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to brew the Amber Ale listed at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=88880&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;homebrewtalk&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Hops bill is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 ounce centennial (to get you to 28-29 IBUs) 60 minutes&#xA;(I used an ounce of 7.7 and .25 ounce of 8.5% AAUs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 ounce Liberty (4.5%) 30 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 ounce crystal (3.3%) 2 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any of the above hops, but I do have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuggles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goldings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Target&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magnum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Willamette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd rather not buy 3 new packs of hops for this beer, but I could go for one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brew365.com/hop_substitution_chart.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hop Substitute Chart&lt;/a&gt;, I think I could replace the Liberty and Crystal in the recipe with Hallertau? (I'm looking to brew some german ales next anyways)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, the first 60 min addition is for bittering rather than flavouring, so it shouldn't matter too much what I substitute it for, provided it's of a similar bitterness. Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this, which of the hops I have, and how much, should I substitute?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12945" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T02:50:04.513" Title="Hops substitutions for Amber Ale" Tags="|beer|hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15189" CreationDate="2016-01-27T14:02:17.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sestos-hk.com/english/download/d1s-en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sestos-hk.com/english/download/d1s-en.pdf&lt;/a&gt; the schematic looks like their are two configurations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two wire prob connected to 3 and 4, with 4 And 5 jumpered.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lindens.nu/projects/sous-vide/pic/wires.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.lindens.nu/projects/sous-vide/pic/wires.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or two wire prob connected to 3 and 5 in which it needs a external power or maybe a jumper on 3 and 4 to provide baseline power for auto calibration. Very poor documentation.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFm19.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T14:14:39.983" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T14:14:39.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16926" CreationDate="2016-01-27T14:33:38.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using what you have, and me not being a fan of centennial, I would use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Magnum (bittering) 60min&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Willamette (flavor) 30min&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Willamette (aroma) 2min&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those should play nicely since Fat Sam seems to be a US inspired beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjust your hop weights to match the IBU potential of the original hops using the new hops AA%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T02:50:04.513" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T02:50:04.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16926" CreationDate="2016-01-27T15:06:37.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to pass on a secret about homebrewing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hop bill isn't all that important unless you're trying to recreate something. For instance, I keep a few cheap hops on hand (a few dollars a pound) for bittering.  I adjust according to the bitterness that I want by the Alpha Acid.  As far as the flavoring and aroma hops go, use what you like.  Seriously.  For instance, I really like the flavor profiles of Galaxy or Citra.  If I make an amber, one of both or those are going in.  I've used Soreache Ace in a kolsch.  The secret is, use something that you like (you're the person who is drinking it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T15:06:37.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16926" CreationDate="2016-01-27T22:55:38.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like CharlieHorse said, it really doesn't matter much what you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I would like to put in a small caveat, it is worth paying a little attention to what hops you're using together. &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/resources/hops&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This guide from Brew Your Own&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/101/hops/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this guide from Beer Advocate&lt;/a&gt; or any other guide available online will describe in broad terms what to expect from the different hops. There are combinations that you may not enjoy. I brewed a few beers with nelson sauvin, and found it hard to pair well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T22:55:38.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-27T23:35:00.507" Score="2" ViewCount="989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I began making a few gallons of mango wine a few months back, and it was fermenting very well.  I got all of the fruit and debris out a week or so after I started it, but I kept it fermenting in the primary fermenter. As things turned out, before it was finished with the primary fermentation, I decided to take a break from drinking for a while, and I ended up neglecting it for a long while. When I finally got around to checking on it some 6 months or so later, the air lock had dried out. I went to go pour it out, but when I opened the lid, the wine was clear, smelled of alcohol and mango, and I think it might be good still, even though the airlock was probably gone for a long time. I'm wondering, is it still safe to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13220" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T19:39:22.093" Title="Is my wine safe to drink?" Tags="|airlock|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16931" CreationDate="2016-01-28T00:16:38.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer &lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No known harmful pathogens can survive in beer or wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your disciption there seems to be no sign of acetobacter which can sour the wine, usually it will have a pellicle on top. But even then is safe to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know how it is, sounds like a nice wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T12:01:49.913" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T12:01:49.913" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16913" CreationDate="2016-01-28T03:34:39.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few ways to get to a Berliner Weiße:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://seancoates.com/blogs/berliner-weisse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sour mash&lt;/a&gt;: introduce lactobacillus to the mash, hold around 120°F (and ideally anaerobically) for 2-3 days to sour. Boil and ferment normally and neutrally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kettle sour: perform the mash, introduce lacto to the wort, hold at temp, boil and ferment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactic acid sour: introduce lactic acid either to the kettle or post-fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus fermentation: use a lactobacillus culture either in primary fermentation or post-primary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A benefit to pre-fermentation souring is that any lactobacillus culture is killed by the boil, and thus won't impact &quot;cold-side&quot; equipment. A drawback is that early souring can drop the pH low enough to interfere with fermentation (though I haven't experienced this, even with wort pH down to 3.3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A downside to &quot;natural&quot; mash/kettle souring is the process difficulty of keeping a volume of mash or wort in a temperature range for multiple days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A downside to &quot;natural&quot; mash/kettle souring is the possibility for other bacterial infections or mold to take hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A downside to lactobacillus fermentation is very long fermentation timeframes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had success in years past with a sour mash in a normal insulated cooler mash-tun, with boiling-water infusions twice a day. The temp ranges all over the place, but generally stays in a reasonable range for lacto. Purging the headspace of the cooler with CO₂ also helps promote lacto, instead of other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This past year I had success &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLj5H4lXQWcBacAk5GhuH7PZ8sHFg8FOP8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;transferring the mash into a corny, which I submersed into a water bath inside my keggle, and used a RIMS tube to maintain the water bath temperature&lt;/a&gt; (and thus the mash temperature). As a side effect, I could purge the corny headspace with CO₂ through the input port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both scenarios, I've fermented with 1056/US-05 without issue in a normal timeframe. Also, in both scenarios I added a couple of reserved cups of the dry, crushed grain to the ~120°F mash as the source of the lactobacillus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ingredients: 75% pilsner, 25% wheat. 9-15 IBU neutral hops (Liberty).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also this &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/889-how-to-make-a-sour-mash-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2000 BYO article about sour mashing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T03:34:39.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16706" CreationDate="2016-01-28T09:36:06.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;No&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various particles have different permeability, different solubility. Filter deterioration is not linear one, it will start to leak &quot;most aggressive&quot; ones first. Only real way to tell proportions of what leaked is to test water again... Or obtain deterioration profile from manufacturer, but I doubt they have something they'll be willing to share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T09:36:06.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16907" CreationDate="2016-01-28T21:30:06.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why dont you do a 15' out.  I mean after you add the fining agent at 15' pull a sample... cool it down... and measure the gravity.  if its too high add some water to your kettle to adjust the gravity into your target.  once you add the water boil for a few minutes then chill.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also very curious on how you get 95%???  that has got to be one interesting setup.  what was your last grain bill and what was your OG?  What is your target amount and what is collected in your fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13222" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T21:30:06.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6462" CreationDate="2016-01-28T21:36:45.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure your looking at this correctly?  doesn't beer smith use OG post boil?  your looking at pre boil gravity?  after you boil you should hit your target.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;never run extra water through the grain bed once your 2nd runnings get below 2 degrees plato/brix.  you can wind up with tannin extracted from the grains.  get yourself a handheld refractometer and check your brix/plato on the second runnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13222" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T21:36:45.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16938" CreationDate="2016-01-29T02:27:17.863" Score="1" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've fermented a 5 gallon lager at 45°F(7°C) for 2 weeks. The OG 1.050 and FG 1.012. At this point, I racked to secondary and put back in the airlock &amp;amp; bung. Increasing temperature to 65°F(18°C) for 2 days. I plan to lower gradually in secondary 5°F(2.5°C) per day until reaching 35°F(2°C) or so for lagering several weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Will I notice any airlock activity during diacetyl rest? How else to determine diacetyl rest is occurring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Will I remove airlock during lagering and keep airtight with bung so no air escapes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3999" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T15:57:48.253" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T15:57:48.253" Title="Lager Diacetyl Rest and Lagering Without Air Escape" Tags="|lager|airlock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16937" CreationDate="2016-01-29T03:16:01.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your diacetyl rest should be the last couple days of your primary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1)&lt;/strong&gt; Yes there should be air lock activity as the added heat will give the yeast a boost in activity to clean up the diacetyl precursors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2)&lt;/strong&gt; The idea of a slow approach to lager temp is two fold, 1 to allow CO2 production to compensate for gas temp shrinkage and prevent airlock suck back. 2 to allow a gentel change to the yeast doesn't crash out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically I will remove the air lock and wrap the carboy neck in sanitizes foil, to eliminate the suck back risk, on getting to lager temp. Once to temp put the airlock back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put a plug in, and drop temp too fast it may suck into the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T15:55:53.633" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T15:55:53.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16940" CreationDate="2016-01-29T04:46:51.497" Score="0" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone found a decent clone recipe for the Widmer 'Brrr' seasonal? This is the second year I've seen it in their sample 12 packs. But in the sample pack, it only has 3 'Brrr's, I'd like to make more, if anyone has a recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T13:33:52.630" Title="Widmer &quot;Brrr&quot; clone" Tags="|recipe|clone-recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16939" CreationDate="2016-01-29T13:33:52.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the ingredients found on beeradvocate I tossed them in BrewR to get the numbers close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be a good start to a clone recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Widmir Brrr&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch size: 12.0 gal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil volume: 13.5 gal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG: 1.072&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG: 1.018&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bitterness (IBU): 51.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color (SRM): 16.9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV: 7.0%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grain/Sugars:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15.00 lb Two-row (US), 44.8%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15.00 lb Munich (German), 44.8%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.00 lb Crystal 80L, 3.0%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.00 lb Crystal 10L, 3.0%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.00 lb CaraPils, 3.0%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.50 lb Chocolate Malt (US), 1.5%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hops:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;2.00 oz Magnum (AA 12.0%, Pellet) 90 min, 32.7 IBU&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.00 oz Cascade (AA 6.6%, Pellet) 30 min, 12.9 IBU&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.00 oz Simcoe (AA 12.0%, Pellet) 10 min, 5.5 IBU&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T13:33:52.630" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6516" CreationDate="2016-01-30T02:25:34.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that crushed oyster shells work really well as a pH stabilizer.. Best when used at the beginning of a ferment to keep it from dropping to below 4.2 which would stall the fermentation in many cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13225" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T02:25:34.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16931" CreationDate="2016-01-30T19:39:22.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably ok, but try a sip first before guzzling it. How does it taste? Does it have enough alcohol to preserve it? The magic number for that is 12.3% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Airlocks don't guarantee freedom from contamination and nor does lack of fluid in an airlock guarantee contamination. The water just helps. The bend in the pipe is really enough to stop most contaminants, and the water will remove some more but not necessarily all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T19:39:22.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16953" CreationDate="2016-01-30T19:54:52.093" Score="2" ViewCount="2535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to brew FreeBeer 1.0 &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/FreeBrewers/Vores&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://github.com/FreeBrewers/Vores&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;My question is: what is &quot;Lager malt&quot; they talking about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is just a malt type (for example for Pilsner malt) but after googling i find English Lager Malt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13128" LastEditorUserId="13128" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T21:16:05.293" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T21:29:15.583" Title="What does it mean &quot;Lager Malt&quot; in this recipe (FreeBeer)" Tags="|recipe|malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16943" CreationDate="2016-01-30T20:34:00.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Free Beer project has undergone many updates since its 1.0 version, like open source code. The 1st recipe was &quot;buggy&quot;; the most current version I've found is 4.1 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://freebeer.org/blog/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://freebeer.org/blog/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find the intended malt they are calling Lager malt in 1.0 if I had to guess I would say &lt;strong&gt;Melonoiden Malt&lt;/strong&gt;, since it's such a small addition I doubt it would be a &quot;lager malt&quot; like 2-row since pils is covered in base malts. Melonoiden would make this like a med-dark bock though an Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 12% of &quot;Lager Malt&quot; may suggest a reference to Carapills or Carafoam since these are brand names they gave it a generic label. Which is common in open source. These are common additions for added head retention and a little body but 12% is high. That's why I feel it is a speciality malt instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may very well have been intended to be a generic place holder for &quot;insert your own specialty malt&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All version are fermented at Ale temps though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T21:29:15.583" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T21:29:15.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16946" CreationDate="2016-01-31T18:28:48.213" Score="3" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing an AG porter recipe. Historically, I have been dissatisfied with my porters - they come out thin, and a bit acidic. Some research suggested that my issue may be mash pH, so I bought so pH strips and some chalk. I measured my mash pH using the strips and it was in the 4.9 range, so I started adding chalk 1 teaspoon at a time. Eventually I got to 5 teaspoons, and the pH strip still registered about 5.0, MAYBE 5.1, but it is hard to tell with the colors. I decided to err on the side of caution and stop adding stuff to my mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I eventually had to also add 1.5 gallons of boiling water to hit my mash temp. So, I went from 4.25 gallons of water to 5.75 for a 13.6lb grain bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is - did I add ridiculously too much chalk? If so, what are the negative side effects of having done so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future brew sessions I think I will purchase a digital pH meter, but for this batch in particular I would like to know if I am fubar or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to my town's water report (from 2014....) here's what's in my water:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;33 ppm Sodium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.03 ppm manganese&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.44 ppm chlorine (relavent?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.03 ppm chloramines (good thing I filtered my water...no wait, that only helps with chlorine...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.11 ppm copper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;34 ppm sulfate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that should be all the relevant stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2215" LastEditorUserId="2215" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T22:48:44.957" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T21:23:02.513" Title="Did I add too much chalk?" Tags="|all-grain|mash|ph|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16945" CreationDate="2016-01-31T19:08:17.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to say without knowing the recipe, and your existing water etc.. It could go either way, but I'd be inclined to say you'll be fine.  It does sound more than we'd typically add to a 5 gallon batch, but I don't see what negative affects it will have, and it clearly did raise the pH over time which was the intent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put some numbers to it, 5 level teaspoons in a 5 gallon batch will add ca. 200ppm Calcium and 300ppm carbonate&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/understanding-the-mash-ph/using-salts-for-brewing-water-adjustment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; [source]&lt;/a&gt;. Both within what's considered reasonable amounts, but of course we don't know the final amount without knowing your water profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's better to ask this question after you've tasted the packaged beer to see if any positive or negative contribution can be attributed to the chalk additions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T19:14:41.423" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T19:14:41.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16947" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16952" CreationDate="2016-01-31T20:15:11.660" Score="4" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently tried extract brewing after all grain brewing. Strange I know, but I wanted to eliminate the mash part of the process to see if it help get rid of a off flavour (it did but that will be another question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a small batch so I boiled the whole batch, but I see in most recipes they tell you to do a small amount then add cold water before fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This baffles me. Everything I read about brewing stresses the importance of sanitation, including not getting anything unsanitised into contact with the post-boil brew, including cold water. The existence of no-rinse sanitiser shows how important this is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how is it that I am now being asked to add a whole load of cold water to the post-boil wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6427" LastActivityDate="2020-05-13T23:26:35.697" Title="Adding cold water to malt extract brew" Tags="|sanitation|partial-mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2016-01-31T21:03:06.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also add a Non-return valve, just like the one used for cold water supply line of water heater, put it at the end of the tube, it will prevent water flow back to the frementer, it can be found at any plumping store&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13233" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T21:03:06.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16947" CreationDate="2016-01-31T22:31:57.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While they say to add cold water, this is water that han been boiled and chilled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dilution method does two things, allows a larger batch size than your boil pot capacity and helps cool the wort for pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T22:31:57.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16945" CreationDate="2016-01-31T22:39:09.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what mdma stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High ppm of calcium could give the finished beer a &quot;mineral water&quot; flavor, but this is appropriate in many styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to consider RO or distilled bottled water at least 50/50 with your filtered water. This will help with the pH and cut down on the Chloramine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T23:44:34.683" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T23:44:34.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-31T23:40:14.187" Score="3" ViewCount="1169" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having trouble understanding what I'm looking at here (see pic):  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zLyci.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zLyci.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Made an Amber ale with LME and used Wyeast 1332 Northwest Ale.  Racked to secondary after 2 weeks to get it off the trub and there was a fair amount of suspended matter that made it over, including a few little clumps.  I figured they'd settle but here it is 2+ weeks in secondary and they're proliferating a bit and still rising/falling and not settling.  No activity in airlock, but they must be eating something.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Are these the 1332 yeast or something different?   I'm eager to bottle but not sure if I just need to filter these clumps out or try cold crash first?  Not familiar with this strain and never had clumpy floaters this long into fermentation, so any advice would be very appreciated.  thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13226" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T11:41:51.583" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T11:41:51.583" Title="Yeast not settling or contamination?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|secondary-fermentation|contamination|wyeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16947" CreationDate="2016-01-31T23:45:34.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sanitation is paramount.  That said, these are normal instructions for most early brewers.  Mostly its because when people get started its assumed they don't make an investment in 8 gallon pots (probably because most stovetops will never boil a full 5 gallons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most municipal water supplies have very low microbial contamination.  When coupled with an adequate yeast pitch most of the time it all works out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while it makes most of us &quot;experienced brewing know-it-alls&quot; cringe... it works for most new brewers.  I know I never had a problem with topping off straight from the sink. Otherwise, most new brewers wouldn't get past the first batch in the hobby.  If it concerns you and you have the equipment for it then boil and chill some tap water the day before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T23:45:34.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16943" CreationDate="2016-02-01T00:04:09.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To understand this malt you need to put it into perspective with other malts and the region it comes from; the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically, lager malt is a malt made from popular English strains of barley that would be used to make English Pale or English Pale Ale malt (like Maris Otter, Golden Promise etc.)  English Ales classically made from 2 row base malt kilned to 3-5Lovibond in color are very malt forward.  Some English Maltsters would kiln 2-row to lower color ratings from the same barley strains. They would call this Lager malt.  My LHBS sells this stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reasonable substitute is actually, just American 2-row; not really Pilsner malt. Very different flavor than low kilned 2-row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, you don't see this stuff in use very much professionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T00:04:09.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16951" CreationDate="2016-02-01T00:08:48.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the picture it looks like normal yeast clumps to me.  Sometimes you get dried krausen falling back in the beer and it doesn't really dissolve and settle out.  Its hard to say looking at an internet picture, but that's what it looks like to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T00:08:48.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16962" CreationDate="2016-02-01T07:12:16.437" Score="1" ViewCount="902" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last fall I tried to make an Ice Cider. I have bought 3 gallons of pasteurized apple cider in plastic jugs. Original gravity of the cider was 1.050. I assumed, that bringin one gallon of juice to 1.135-1.150 (30-35˚Brix), it would take 3 gallons of unfermented juice (fresh juice is usually 12-14˚Brix).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I froze all jugs in my chest freezer to solid state. Then I started to unfreeze the cider into a pot (turning it up side down). After two hours, I had jug of white colored ice filling it to almost 50% with half gallon in the pot. When I checked the gravity of the iced cider, I was surprised because it was only 1.060.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was I doing wrong? Is there some sort of secret on how to unfreeze the cider? Was it because the way the cider was pasteurized initially?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastEditorUserId="6374" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T23:54:01.267" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T23:54:01.267" Title="Making an Ice Cider" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-01T12:48:40.730" Score="2" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;My sanitiser/cleanser (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vwpcleanersteriliser.co.uk/homebrewing.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;VWP&lt;/a&gt;) says that I need to leave it submersed for at least 5-10 minutes. Is this the case for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen in a few videos people just swirl the sanitiser around the fermenting vessel and I was wondering if I could just do the same. In the videos they usually use star stan or similar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KTBlZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KTBlZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sanitiser Instructions&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11987" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T16:59:00.170" Title="Do I really need to sanitise my equipment for 10 minutes?" Tags="|sanitation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16957" CreationDate="2016-02-01T13:19:50.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that this product is both a cleaner and sterilizer. The contact times on the label seem to be more directed at cleaning so it's difficult to figure how much time is required for sterilization of a surface that is already clean. Lacking any better information, you must trust the manufacturer's instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sanitizer that you see people swishing about is indeed Star San. It contains a surfactant so it coats the surface, which allows for proper contact time without total immersion. The official recommended contact time for Star San is two minutes, but Jon Herskovits of Five Star Chemicals has said on the Brew Strong podcast that 30 seconds is sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T13:19:50.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16956" CreationDate="2016-02-01T18:09:49.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like you froze the cider first, with the intent of fermenting a concentrated cider after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct process is to ferment the cider first, this creates alcohol with a lower freezing point than water.&#xA;Then you freeze the fermented product.  The water will freeze first and the alcohol will drain out of the icy mass when inverted.  People do fortify their cider first with table or honey to get a high gravity/higher ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T18:09:49.437" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16957" CreationDate="2016-02-01T18:51:46.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I write my answer, let me say that I'm not sure what's available in the UK.  Here in the US, many of us use a product called StarSan, a no rinse sanitizer. However, you can't sanitize a surface until you've removed all of the organic material from in, so many brewers use a product with the brand name &quot;OxyClean&quot; - the generic version works as well - to do that actual cleaning. After things like fermenters are clean of detritus, we'll sanitize with StarSan.  It's very quick and easy and works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T18:51:46.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16957" CreationDate="2016-02-01T20:08:47.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would always recommend following the labeled instructions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most sanitizers work by oxidizing or rupturing the cell walls of microbes. This doesn't happen instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T20:15:48.073" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T20:15:48.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16956" CreationDate="2016-02-01T20:29:49.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally the juice &lt;strong&gt;IS&lt;/strong&gt; concentrated before fermentation (2015 BJCP C2C)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fruit is frozen and pressed, or juice is frozen to just a slurry and strained. It may take several passes with ideal temp control to concentrate from juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all juices are equal, taking a gravity reading before will help. Most Apple juices are 1.040-1.055 SG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it froze too fast and captured the sugar too. Try to catch it with just the top couple inches as a slurry or close to solid.  Remove some of the juice volume to give 1&quot; air space and freeze it upside down. (1&quot; space when upside down). The out sides will freeze 1st, squeeze the jugs so the ice will break off and float to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T20:40:58.290" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T20:40:58.290" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16951" CreationDate="2016-02-01T20:55:18.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast with a high floculation rate will do this, they usually break off the bottom and float up from trapped c02. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer looks really clear, good job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you rack to secondary, go ahead and let the floaters suck into the secondary, usually this is enough to break them up and let them settle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind the extra loss you can leave them behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just noticed that is secondary, you can rack again using a hop bag to catch and break them up. Once floculated and broken up they won't rejoin and can settle. Sounds like you just needed a little more time in primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T20:55:18.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="510" CreationDate="2016-02-02T13:40:23.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made a beautiful loaf of whole grain bread using the following method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After transferring a toasted oatmeal stout from my primary fermenter to my secondary, I let the trub settle again. I carefully skimmed the rest of the beer off of the trub. I mixed 125g of this beer with 125g of bread flour. Usually with my sourdough starter, it takes 4-5 hours for this to become active. With the beer mixture, it took about half the time (2.5 hours). It was incredibly active. I then mixed together 187.5 g white bread flour, 187.5 g whole wheat flour, 7.5 g of salt. I added the 250g of starter and another 150g of water. I kneaded for 15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This loaf proofed much faster than a sourdough for me. After 5 hours proofing in the fridge, I knocked back the dough and started a second rise at room temperature for 3 hours. I scattered with oats, scored, and baked in a high oven with steam for about an hour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resulting loaf was light for a whole grain loaf, with a caramel colour. It had a malty delicious aroma and flavour. A hint of licorice to it, from the oatmeal stout, which happened to have a high ABV. The beer had a low IBU rating, and couldn't pick up any bitter notes in the loaf.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The proof was quicker/more successful than I was expecting - probably because I pulled the yeast in between primary and secondary while it was still active, not from the trub after brewing was complete.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely going to be experimenting further.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T13:40:23.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-02T13:42:18.357" Score="3" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've just completed my fifth BIAB brew, and this time I decided to try and calculate the mash efficiency of my setup since I'm fairly sure it's not as high as it should be. I also think at the moment its the most useful efficiency measure, but I'm not sure!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the wort after the mash and after putting it into the fermenter to get gravity readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The readings were 1.020 after the mash (67C), and 1.030 into the fermenter (~25C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe for this brew is here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewerschoice.com.au/little-cheapers-pale-ale-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brewerschoice.com.au/little-cheapers-pale-ale-2/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine the post-mash gravity, I plugged the values into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this calculator&lt;/a&gt; and got this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5vYPX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5vYPX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then plugged the recipe and this gravity reading into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/brewhouse-efficiency/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this calculator&lt;/a&gt; (approximating the recipe as close as possible) to get this result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2FgQR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2FgQR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;34 litres was my strike volume - I'd estimate the volume post mash was probably more like 32 litres, and I think my keggle has about a 3L trub, which when accounted for brings the calculated efficiency down to 67%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Am I doing this right?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is mash efficiency the usual measure people quote?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What can I do if the gravity is too high or too low pre-boil?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any assistance is greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13241" LastEditorUserId="13267" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T19:29:02.630" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T19:29:02.630" Title="Trying to calculate my efficiency correctly" Tags="|mash|efficiency|biab|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16965" CreationDate="2016-02-02T14:30:19.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like you are &lt;strong&gt;doing it right&lt;/strong&gt; to me, using those calculators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that might change your actual # is the calibration temp of your hydrometer.  Be sure that it is 20C.  Some hydrometers are closer to 15 or 18C, depends on the manufacturer.  Although that won't change your OG much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;67% mash efficiency&lt;/strong&gt; does seem like a normal for BIAB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the &lt;strong&gt;gravity is to high preboil&lt;/strong&gt;, you can always do a calculation of how much sugar you have and dilute the boil with water. In the end, you'll just be leaving more wort behind to still hit the same batch size.&#xA;If the &lt;strong&gt;gravity is to low preboil&lt;/strong&gt;, you can try and squeeze your grain bag some more, sparge with a little water or do a calculation and add a little dry extract to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your OG seems low, but based on the recipe it makes sense. As long as you were trying to make a low gravity beer it seems like you are on track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T14:30:19.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16965" CreationDate="2016-02-02T14:41:21.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I can't see your images from my work computer so I'll explain it from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each type of grain (base malt and adjuncts) have a potential yield of sugar.  For simplicity's sake, we'll use the &quot;point system&quot; (that is Specific Gravity minus 1 times 1000), so for a Specific Gravity of, say, 1.040, we would say that you have 40 point (1.040-1 = .040, .040 * 1000 = 40).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing software, such as BeerSmith or Brew Target have the potential points built in (it's also available from the manufacturer and often on the bag).  US 2 Row has a potential of 36 points (if you had 100% efficiently, and put 5 pounds in a 5 gallon batch, you'd have a measured SP of 1.036).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to measure your gravity at the end of the boil (hops don't add a lot to this).  So, Efficiency = Measured Gravity Points / Potential Gravity Points.  Let's take this a step further though because sometimes we don't always boil off what we want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Efficiency = (Measured Gravity Points * Actual volume)/(Potential Gravity Points * Target Volume).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, Brad Smith does an excellent job of explaining this &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/10/26/brewhouse-efficiency-for-all-grain-beer-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T14:41:21.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16945" CreationDate="2016-02-03T00:32:40.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm doing an AG porter recipe. Historically, I have been dissatisfied with my porters - they come out thin...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to thin, as in mouth-feel, is normally in your malt bill, the yeast you choose and your mash thickness and temps. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/hops/item/1135-maximizing-mouthfeel-tips-from-the-pros&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Mash ph also plays a role, but it isn't the only contributing factor, and the ph is affected by the other factors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and a bit acidic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acidity is higher when you mash your roasted malts. You can steep them apart from your mash or even steep them cold and never boil them, since &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the burnt and acrid components derived from mashing dark grains usually occur due to prolonged periods of contact with hot water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/cold-steeping-getting-the-most-out-of-dark-grains/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source, recommendations and cold steeping&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T21:23:02.513" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T21:23:02.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16965" CreationDate="2016-02-03T02:51:45.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I can see that your post mash and post boil gravities are really off.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For example&lt;/em&gt; you state an estimated post mash gravity 1.037 after correction, but then have 1.030 post boil. This would only be possible if you diluted with water. Post boil will always be higher from the boil off evaporation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I think the hydrometer calculator is setting you in a wrong direction by it being too far of a temp spread, and you really didn't have 1.037. All hydrometers are different, and have their own temperature correction but only are accurate if you're within their tolerance usually +- 10°F or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;It's best to cool a gravity sample&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to within tolerance then take a reading and adjust based on your hydrometers specific instructions. Refractometers are useful as an alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only a couple efficiencies matter. Mash and brewhouse.  Mash is the big one, and where you get your fermentables so dialing this in helps a lot. Brewhouse is basically everything combining mash efficiency with end volume of beer. With the ultimate goal of buying exactly the amount of grain needed for X gallons and product and get the desired ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post mash/Pre boil and post boil reading are useful to hit numbers, Gravity correction calculators help with adjucts like DME to raise SG or water to lower SG. An alternative to adding adjuncts to raise SG is to boil off more at the sacrifice of volume, but take care hop times need adjusted too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you have about 4 liters of over sparge there which will reduce your mash efficiency. Recipe calls for 20 strike, 10 sparge. For 26 pre boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.030 post boil is really bad for that recipe. Check and make sure all your grain was milled and the wheat was flaked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T13:17:05.280" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T13:17:05.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16973" CreationDate="2016-02-03T08:17:39.153" Score="0" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after activity had died down in the airlock, I've transferred into the secondary carboy and I've got just about 1 liter left over. Any suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of plastic bottles, but I'm concerned with them being sealed (screw top lid) as I can see that there is still a reaction going on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All advice welcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13187" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T13:11:38.837" Title="1 liter of hard Apple cider left" Tags="|cider|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16972" CreationDate="2016-02-03T08:24:11.070" Score="0" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;So with your help I've made into secondary fermentation of my first hard cider batch. I just have a question about specific gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started with a reading of 1.060.I measured it again from a sample left over and got a reading of 1.010. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that it should have been a little lower 0.0990. Is that right? The only reason I ask was that the smell of the primary was so intoxicating it made my eyes water. Not a bad thing though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your advice in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13187" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T13:02:09.787" Title="Specific Gravity Reading" Tags="|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16971" CreationDate="2016-02-03T13:02:09.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it finished off good. You say it's in secondary now, it may go a few points lower. But If it's done at 1.010 that's great imo. Its actually hard to get it to stop there as they do usually drive really low 0.990 is common. But those make for really dry and tart ciders, I usually back sweeten to make them to taste good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If backsweetening isn't applied the fermentation is stopped at a desired gravity 1.015 to 1.005 are usually enough to keep the sweetness. Many say once below 1.005 it loses too much of the Apple flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alcohol from a warm fermented cider usually has a high fusel alchohol content, this mellows with aging though. Personally I enjoy a touch of fusel, gives some heat so you know to take it serious. They also hit really fast,  moderation is key. My last Apple wine, 4oz and I was good for the night. It hit like a couple pints of a tripple beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T13:02:09.787" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16970" CreationDate="2016-02-03T13:11:38.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clean your primary, and put everything back in that carboy for secondary. At the risk of transfer exposure to O2, but can be done easily to avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or put an airlock on the 2 liter bottle and let it ferment separate from the rest. This would minimize transfer O2 exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or leave them sealed in a 2 liter soda bottle, this will naturally carbonate them. With a gravity of 1.010 going into secondary it should be fine. When they are rock hard, let out some pressure to relieve it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T13:11:38.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-03T13:35:18.147" Score="1" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used replacement regulator on EBay. The gauge for tank pressure doesn't work, but because the one for keg pressure works I can still use it.  I successfully carbonated and served from one keg a few weeks ago. However now I have two kegs hooked up to it with the gates open for both gas lines to carbonate two kegs. I have full tank I just exchanged yesterday. Last night the pressure to the kegs stayed at 20 psi for at least 6 hours. This morning it is at zero and I can't get it to go up again. Needle won't move. The tank and regulator are in the fridge with the kegs this didn't seem to be a problem when I used it with one keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13251" LastEditorUserId="13252" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T14:35:25.300" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T04:01:54.763" Title="Can't maintain pressure on keg" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9950" CreationDate="2016-02-03T19:26:39.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a Cinnamon Porter two weeks ago. It just went into bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added two cinnamon sticks that were chopped in a food processor to primary fermentation. While primary was bubbling away, I put three more sticks into ~2oz whiskey (+ 2oz water) and swirled it daily for 4 days.   This is a 5 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put added the whiskey tincture into secondary for 4 days and the initial results have been promising. The aroma was there but not overpowering and the flavor was in the body of the beer but only if you look for it.  I found this to be ideal.  The flavor and aroma are there but not to the point that it smells like fireball whiskey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scientificameriken.com/yeast.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cinnamon upsets yeast&lt;/a&gt;, so it may be best to just skip the 2 sticks in primary if you have a delicate beer to work with. I wasn't worried since mine was a porter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested, send me a message and I'll update you when I try it on February 13th.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT/UPDATE: For future reference, the cinnamon aroma is definitely there in my porter though not overpowering. The flavor is there but not something to be in the forefront of the beer. I'd suggest skipping the cinnamon in primary (due to yeast interaction) and just make a whiskey tincture with ~3 sticks, crushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13178" LastEditorUserId="13178" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T03:44:17.927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T03:44:17.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-03T20:36:00.760" Score="3" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to split a kit five ways to do a test on different water types.  The kit is a two-can 3.6Kg LME kit (St Peter's IPA made by Muntons) that's designed to make about 20 litres of beer.  I figure I'll get five PET one-gallon FVs to brew in, weigh the LME and split into five, add the appropriate water, and split the hop extract five ways (should be doable by eye).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main question I have is about the yeast.  These Muntons kits come with a 6g yeast sachet, which is pretty small to start with.  Splitting it 5 ways is going to be 1.2g yeast per fermenter, which sounds very small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just split it and not worry.  Probably rehydrate first (in distilled water) then split the liquid/sludge as well as I can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a starter to bump up the volume a bit, then split that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to find out from Muntons what kind of yeast they use (it's been labelled &quot;X HND 6 G YEAST PREMIUM MADE IN EU&quot; on other kits I've had from them) and getting four new packets and using one in each.  I'm a little worried that inconsistencies between the packets might mess up my test, but perhaps I could rehydrate them all in one batch and then split that five ways?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any of those options sound like they're obviously better than the others, or just completely crazy?  Are there other things I should be considering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, is there anything else about this experiment that strikes anyone as a bad idea?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12297" LastEditorUserId="12297" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T20:57:37.520" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T17:24:53.393" Title="Splitting a kit five ways: yeast (or other) advice?" Tags="|yeast|kits|experiments|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16977" CreationDate="2016-02-03T23:26:14.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just build a starter for 5 gallons and split evenly, 1500-2000ml is an average starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main benifiet here is to decant the starter wort and only pitch the slurry this will minimize the starters water contribution for your experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T02:52:31.587" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T02:52:31.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16977" CreationDate="2016-02-04T00:34:37.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just rehydrate the packet of yeast in 500mLs of water using a measuring cup.  Then just pour 100mLs in each fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that sounds 'crazy' about your experiment is the water type test.  Extract contains the minerals from the original water source used when mashing at the manufacturer.  So adding minerals or whatever you plan to do might be misleading in its final analysis.  Unless all you are doing is looking for a water treatment that enhances that exact malt extract manufacturer then it might be educational.  Does that make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T00:34:37.417" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16250" CreationDate="2016-02-04T09:28:25.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd freeze the sultanas to break up the cell membranes and get more taste and sugar out of them, then once thawed add them with the elderberries and continue as per the recipe. I'd add the campden tablet, leave it to do its stuff for an hour or 2 then add the yeast. If using dried yeast and campden tablets best to make sure the yeast is properly rehydrated before adding the yeast. As dried yeast as it rehydrates has no control over the nutrients/toxins passing through its cell membrane. So rehydrate it first then it will be able to better handle the low Sulphur Dioxide levels from the campden tablet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T09:28:25.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15968" CreationDate="2016-02-04T10:01:15.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few friends that made an apple flavoured beer, they added some apple pulp to the boil, and then added apple slices to the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the caramel, I'd add it at the end of the boil, just to quickly flash sanitise it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T10:01:15.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T10:54:58.103" Score="3" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m making my first yeast starter, and want to confirm my calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG = 1,059&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Batch size(post boil) = 9,2 Liters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wyeast Ale yeast creating date: 07.des. 2015. (only 36-37 billions cells left..)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to my calculations, I need 0,3 Liters of water, and 35 grams of spray malt in my starter to reach 100 billion cells (Mr.Malty). I will also add yeast nutrition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6229" LastEditorUserId="6229" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T11:10:16.850" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T15:03:00.067" Title="Is these yeast starter calculation correct?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16982" CreationDate="2016-02-04T12:54:52.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it roughly lines up using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my preferred calculator&lt;/a&gt; if I use the stir-plate aeration options (the &quot;C.White&quot; option has 124 bn cells, &quot;Kai&quot; has 95 bn cells).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll note that the Brewer's Friend calculator does show 56% viability, or about 59 bn cells, not 36 bn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sort of aeration method are you using for the starter? That has a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; impact on the amount of cell growth you can expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T12:54:52.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16982" CreationDate="2016-02-04T14:46:47.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a small batch 2.43 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too show a yeast viability at 56%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your starter volume of 300ml seems low. That is more of a proofing volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My calculator shows 107bil cell growth if you use 1000ml starter (4oz DME) 1.040sg wort using NO stirplate. Stirplate will bump it up to 167bil cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use a Stirplate in this case. Do a 1000ml starter, swirling it manually whenever you walk by it. Once all krausen phases have past, let it settle out and then decant the starter beer off, and just pitch the slurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T15:03:00.067" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T15:03:00.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16220" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:15:52.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a few recipes: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wine-making-guides.com/elderberry_wine.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wine-making-guides.com/elderberry_wine.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would stick with there rough guide of 3lb/gal, and I would use some sugar but if you don't want to add sugars then you are likely to be using about 5lb of berries and 2-3lb of raisins per gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also freeze the raisins to break the cell walls and release the flavour and sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally when making elderberry wine freeze everything, then take a large pan and add the berries/rasins/sugar into the pan, add boiling water to make it up to the gallon, and boil for 5 min, put lid on and allow to cool, then pour everything into a demijon, leave for 5 days, then rack off into secondary, and leave for another week for everything to sediment out the bottle and enjoy a couple of months later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I no longer use Campden tablets as I have friends with allergies to sulphides, but you can use one rather than the quick boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T15:15:52.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16986" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T21:23:53.110" Score="1" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a recent mishap in one of my brews in which I poured my wort into the primary fermenter, which was holding 1.5 gallons or so of Easy Clean. At that point, I didn't feel like wasting it, so I went ahead with the fermentation.  From what I gather from the MSDS, the active ingredients are sodium percarbonate and sodium sulfate; the former produces hydrogen peroxide for the sanitizing effect, while the latter appears to be a laxative... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, have any of y'all done this before by accident? I've read how people have made my same mistake with StarSan, though its active ingredient is much different (phosphoric acid). Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13257" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T14:58:34.623" Title="Dumped Wort into Easy Clean Sanitizer" Tags="|wort|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16986" CreationDate="2016-02-05T17:21:30.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason it's OK with Star-San is because once the concentration drops, it just acts as free phosphates for the yeast to use. I would guess that hydrogen peroxide might be good for yeast (they like oxygen), not sure about the rest of it. A gallon and a half is quite a bit, definitely let us know how it turns out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T17:21:30.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16977" CreationDate="2016-02-05T17:24:53.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe just skip the kit yeast and get yourself five packs of US-05. That way you know you've got a consistent amount in each, and US-05 is a pretty neutral yeast, so it shouldn't contribute much in the way of additional flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T17:24:53.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-05T19:33:03.353" Score="1" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just curious which specific strains can exist in beer, and if so, what are the various alcoholic thresholds for each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13259" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T15:58:52.357" Title="Which probiotics can exist in beer and at what abv's?" Tags="|beer|open-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16989" CreationDate="2016-02-05T23:03:37.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pathogens have a hard time surviving very long in finished beer let alone probiotics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most open fermentation bacteria (lacto, pedio) die off pretty quickly once yeasts have produced alchohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further even antibiotics are adversely affected even by consuming alchohol while on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many articles on how habitually consuming a lot of alcohol can deplete the bowel of probiotics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would say beer of any normal strength ABV wouldn't be a good medium for probiotics to survive in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The low pH and hops in beer also play a big role, in inhibiting bacteria growth and survivability in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T15:58:52.357" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T15:58:52.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T03:45:00.270" Score="4" ViewCount="3059" Body="&lt;p&gt;I shook the mead during fermentation and I'm concerned that i may have hurt the yeast, causing it to produce less alcohol. Could this happen, or am i over thinking it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13263" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T16:18:54.230" Title="Will accidentally shaking the mead lower the alcohol percentage?" Tags="|fermentation|mead|alcohol|shaking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16996" CreationDate="2016-02-06T04:05:58.023" Score="5" ViewCount="860" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cousin from a state where recreational use of marijuana is legal. So I've been told that he and his gnarly friends have brewed up some sort of marijuana hybrid beer somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this possible that beer could be brewed up somehow with weed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this is possible, would you get the effects of both beer and pot both?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see the stoners on this as...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going to drink some weed dude! Getting drunk and high at the same time, man!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13247" LastActivityDate="2020-04-06T15:41:37.150" Title="Marijuana Based Beer... say what?" Tags="|brewing|extract-brewing|brewpot|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16993" CreationDate="2016-02-06T04:18:33.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. Simular to cooking with it It can have all the medicinal effects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a specific extraction that needs done, it's simple but I don't care to explain the how. As the question was only if it's possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not like a hop addition, or dry hopping. That will only make a skunk beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T04:18:33.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16992" CreationDate="2016-02-06T04:25:29.697" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No it wont. In fact it can break up yeast floculation and aid fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is risk of oxidation if much alcohol has been produced when it was shook. But the c02 in headspace should minimize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once fermented a 5 gal 1.086 apple wine to 0.992 in a couple days on a stirpate to completely deny the yeast floculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T14:17:01.553" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T14:17:01.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16993" CreationDate="2016-02-06T07:28:02.910" Score="13" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Is this possible that beer could be brewed up somehow with weed?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, in the same way you can put any sort of anything in your beers, as long as you think it will taste good. But to answer the more important question: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'[W]ould you get the effects of both beer and pot both?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would very much depend on how you used it in the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetrahydrocannabinol&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;THC&lt;/a&gt;, the psychoactive chemical in marijuana, is barely soluble in water, 0.0028 mg/mL &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; 2.8 parts per million (according to Wikipedia). So if you added your herb to the boil, that's the most you could hope to get (a 20 liter batch of beer could be THC-saturated with just 0.6g of 10%-THC pot). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you added it as a 'dry-herb' addition you would see a much higher solubility due to the presence of the alcohol formed during fermentation. THC is soluble in pure ethanol at 35 mg/mL (or 35,000 PPM)(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.caymanchem.com/pdfs/12068.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;). Say your beer is 5% ABV and that's ~1,800 PPM it could contain. If my math is correct, that would take roughly 360g of 10%-TCH pot to fully saturate 20 liters, just about 9g. worth of potency you could hypothetically pack into each pint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One key to this process you don't want to overlook (as noted in &lt;a href=&quot;https://cannabisgrowing.wordpress.com/2013/03/03/how-to-make-marijuana-tincture-decarboxylation-alcohol-extraction-of-thc-and-cbd/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;these instructions for making a tincture of marijuana&lt;/a&gt;) is that the psychoactivity of cannabis is dependent on heat-activaction of inert &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetrahydrocannabinolic_acid&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;THCA&lt;/a&gt; to become active THC (when you smoke, vaporize, or bake the pot, this heat-activation is already part of the process). As outlined in the link, the herb must first be heated to cause this chemical change, but not so hot that it vaporizes the THC (225°F is recommended). If you skip this step before adding the herb, even if you are able to dissolve its chemicals, they may not be the ones you're after. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you'd have to add the herb post-fermentation anyway, this seems like the perfect kind of thing to experiment with using single bottles of beer, dosing and aging differently to see what works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;~EDIT~&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/COBeer/comments/1uep4u/now_that_recreational_marijuana_is_legal_what_are/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a thread on Reddit&lt;/a&gt; in which someone with some experience goes into more detail on the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.erowid.org/plants/cannabis/cannabis_recipe6.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;And an older recipe from Erowid&lt;/a&gt; for marijuana beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both mention another feasible way to add the pot to the beer, which I didn't consider. Basically you add it to the boil, as you would hops, and you make sure to transfer the &lt;strong&gt;entire&lt;/strong&gt; contents of the kettle to the fermenter (hops, trub, everything you would normally leave behind) so that the THC-bearing plant material is in the fermenting beer as alcohol is produced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T17:29:31.140" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T17:29:31.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16986" CreationDate="2016-02-06T14:41:04.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read over the data sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://storefront.ldcarlson.com/storefrontCommerce/binaryContent.do?contentKey=ac7e3b4d-ddaa-4dfb-ac44-b5a59546039f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Easy Clean datasheet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not something you want to take a swig of straight, in the that event it does state to call a doctor and drink lots of water. Which suggests dilution helps to make it &quot;safer&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a carcinogen so that's good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it does say not to contaminate food or beverages with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sound like the yeast made a go of it. Let us know how it turn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt this will happen in your case because it was mostlikly mixed pretty fast. But I've had about 1/2 gallon if starsan suck back in to beer before. What it did was float on top, like a black and tan would, so I was able to rack the beer out leaving most of the starsan behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T14:58:34.623" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T14:58:34.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17011" CreationDate="2016-02-07T16:08:19.563" Score="3" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to buy a secondary fermenter (generic plastic bucket and drill a hole to fit in a plastic bottle filler) for the usual reasons. I'm, however, curious how would I go about and clean the little bottler and tap? Will I have to pop it out every time I use it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13162" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T12:45:36.583" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T12:45:36.583" Title="How to clean little bottler" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16974" CreationDate="2016-02-08T17:10:32.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for leaks, replace all the o-rings and maybe even the valves.  Also get yourself some keg lube and make sure to hit the kegs with high enough pressure to seat the keg lids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T17:10:32.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1995" CreationDate="2016-02-08T17:44:55.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a freezer and instead of getting one of those fancy external temperature controllers I changed the major adjustment on the built in thermostat to get in the range of a refrigerator (the lowest it can now get is around 33 degrees Fahrenheit.) I also drilled a hole though the top so I could keep the gas bottle outside.  (I don’t have a collar.)  This setup gives me room for 7 5 gallon kegs as well as 2 2.5 gallon kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T17:44:55.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16993" CreationDate="2016-02-08T19:29:10.620" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The major bitter compound in hops, the so-called alpha acids, aka humulone, is a terpenoid (derived from terpenes). The primary active ingredient in that &quot;herb&quot; you're smoking, the tetrahydrocannabinoids, are also terpenoids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both Humulus lupulus (hops) and Cannabis sativa (marijuana) are, in fact, two genera in the family Cannabinaceae. It is entirely possible to graft one plant to the other...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the effects, I'm sure something will come through with some experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T19:29:10.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16472" CreationDate="2016-02-08T21:57:12.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have experience with this specific product, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cheops.dk/onlinepdf/Brewolution/Brewolution_I_WANT_IT_UK/#/1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reading the brochure&lt;/a&gt;, the Brewolution Brewster is a self-contained recirculating infusion mash system (RIMS) with a built-in 2kW heating element and a thermostatic controller.  It also doubles as a kettle, and includes a counterflow chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of beer it can make depends on how strong or malty of a beer you are trying to brew, i.e. a strong or malty beer requires more grain in your mash.  According to the brochure this system is intended to make as much as 25 liters of beer from 8kg of grain but you could make a bit less, so your 20 liter fermenters would be compatible with this thing if the brochure is accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note of caution about RIMS systems in general is that they have a fundamental limitation in how quickly they can heat a mash without scorching, which makes it difficult to do things like dough-in and heat to a predominantly alpha amylase conversion, or to do a predominantly beta amylase conversion and skip the beta amylase conversion before mashing out.  In layman's terms, it's tricky to get a clear, strong, malty beer out of a RIMS system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note of caution about this system in particular is that as shown, it is apparently designed to return the heated, recirculated wort to the mash via the distribution ring, which aerates the wort a great deal, which is a bad thing, as it will give you off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving on, when you are finished with the mash, you apparently &quot;raise the kettle sieve and sparge&quot;.  It doesn't have any details about this step, but to do it right you must sparge gently with hot pH-adjusted water, not wort.  They may tell you to gently pour hot water on the mash to sparge, which works but is not ideal as it disturbs the grain bed, or they may have a system that allows you to sparge using the distribution ring on top somehow, which would be great.  Either way, I would assume you will want a separate lauter tun and plumbing to connect it to the distribution ring, none of which are included, and this step may be awkward, possibly dangerous, and will inevitably disturb the grain bed during the sparge, causing cloudiness, less than ideal efficiency and some off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the boil you chill the wort through the counterflow chiller, which is the blue coil on the bottom.  The brochure says it has a stainless steel tube which would be inside the blue hose.  The stainless tube will have wort flowing out away from the mash tun, and cold tap water flowing through the outer hose in the opposite direction, i.e. toward the mash tun.  Counterflow chillers work great as long as you have a system for getting the inside of the stainless tube extremely clean between brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10688" LastEditorUserId="10688" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T15:41:36.473" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T15:41:36.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17005" CreationDate="2016-02-09T00:34:35.197" Score="5" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry to be the thousandth person to ask about acetaldehyde here; I don't think that I'm making any of the normal mistakes that cause a green apple flavour, but I have an ale brew that's hit the correct FG for the kit and it tastes like a (perfectly decent) cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, the main causes of the acetaldehyde off flavour are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not leaving it to brew for long enough. It's been 22 days since I pitched the yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxygenation. The FV (a bucket) has a good seal -- lots of healthy bubbling -- and I didn't open it to sample until day 18. I've opened the lid for a maximum of a minute at a time, and taken the samples using a sanitised turkey baster, making sure that all air was expelled before putting the tip in to take out the samples.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low pitching rate. Maybe -- this is from a kit with a 6 gram yeast packet.  But fermentation was &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/p/BAvs-Hzk7X8/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;very busy initially&lt;/a&gt; and the gravity has gone down from the 1.043 to 1.014 as the kit instructions expect.  And if anything, the apple flavour has got worse from the first sample four days ago to today, so it doesn't sound like it could be incomplete fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High fermentation temperatures. It's been a pretty steady 20 Celsius from pitching to today, never more than 22, no sudden temperature changes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitation problems. I don't think I'm messing this up.  I've had this problem in three kits now; I've used three different sanitisers, made sure everything gets properly soaked for the right amount of time, and so on.  This time I'm using Star San. I've confirmed that the pH is somewhere between 2 and 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things that feel suspicious:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There was some apple flavour when I tasted the sample (gravity just over 1.015) on the 18th day, but it was just a hint. There were a lot of 0.5-1cm sized &quot;broccoli&quot; shaped yeast floaters then.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I took the second sample on day 21 the floating yeast was gone but there were scattered islands of floating white foam. Kind of like what you might see if you poured a glass and let the head settle completely. The apple flavour was stronger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Today the floating foam was still there but no worse. The apple flavour was stronger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not actually a bad flavour -- if I bought a pint of cider at a pub that tasted like it I'd be quite happy with it... But if I wanted cider I'd be brewing cider :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12297" LastEditorUserId="12297" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T01:31:27.607" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T17:38:16.163" Title="Another acetaldehyde question" Tags="|kits|acetaldehyde|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17004" CreationDate="2016-02-09T03:48:46.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several causes and solutions, in this case I would say a combination of premature flocculation, lack of oxygen pre pitch, under pitched and possibly post fermintation o2 exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution so you don't get a 4th batch like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1)Areate wort before pitching yeast, consider direct o2 gas. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2) Use a yeast starter to solve the underpitch and premature flocculation. Using fresh healthy yeast, and maybe a less floculant strain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3) Minimize post fermentation o2 exposure. Buckets are really bad you will lose your c02 blanket by removing the lid. If you must pull a sample, consider using a pipet 30ml or so that can sneak in the airlock hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T03:48:46.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16974" CreationDate="2016-02-09T04:01:54.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was there any keg lube used? I have had many issues with my kegs not holding pressure when keg lube wasn't used. It helps to lubricate the seals and make a stronger seal than it would using just the seals themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's cheap and the tube will last a long time. If you are unable to find keg specific lube, any silicone based food grade lubricant will work just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12818" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T04:01:54.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17008" CreationDate="2016-02-09T10:00:11.250" Score="4" ViewCount="1726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a porter, and just started fermentation a couple of days ago. I have never manipulated temperature before, but have read that this is vital when making pilsners, so got curious. Is there any benefit in manipulating temperatures for dark ales and porters and the likes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is built by modifying a brown porter recipe with rye and maize amongst other things. It is fermented in a converted refrigerator with temperature set at 19°C. I use WYEAST 1335 British ale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13277" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T13:08:50.600" Title="Is there a benefit in rising fermentation temperature for dark ales?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|porter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17007" CreationDate="2016-02-09T11:56:26.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many benefits in having accurate control over the temperature of your brew. It allows you to control many variables. You can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;control the ester profile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;alter the speed of fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;improve the health of your yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;speed up the clearing of your brew&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets look at 1, for the first 3 days you get the majority of your yeast reproduction, fermentation and thus ester production occurring. A slightly higher temperature here can lead to a more ester rich flavor profile, due to more rapid yeast growth; conversely a cooler temp will lead to a cleaner flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads on to 2. faster yeast growth leads to a brew reaching the end point of a fermentation faster. A lower temp can lead to a cleaner flavour, but a slower fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast health is affected by the temperature, too hot and you kill it, too cold and it will produce HSP (Heat Stress Proteins) and may fall dormant. Dormancy is usually induced by rapid drops in temp (&gt;1C/hour). Maintaining it in its happy temperature range will help ensure you can reuse the yeast for multiple brews as you have not subjected it to excess stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crashing the temperature at the end of the fermentation can speed the clearing of the beer, and ensure fermentation is halted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at your Brown Porter recipe, I would personally pitch in at ~20C and let it drop to 17C over the next few hours. I pitch in at 20C as it gives the yeast a little boost to their metabolism as they first encounter the wort. I generally do British ales ~17C as I like the cleaner ester profile most British yeasts give at this temp. At 19C you will likely get a few more fruity esters but nothing that adversely affects the style, as this yeast can tolerate upto 24C you will not get anything drastic, but your brew will likely finish before one at 17C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the same recipe and yeast but fermenting at 17C, 19C, 21C, and 24C you will get 4 different tasting beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted a clean flavour but a rapid fermentation, you could pitch at 22 cool to 17 over 6 hours, let ferment for 2-3 days at 17C, then raise the temp to 20 to quickly finish off. Accurate control of temperature and rate of change allows you to tailor your temperature/time profile to your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. For more information grab a copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/0937381969/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chris White - Yeast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T13:08:50.600" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T13:08:50.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16998" CreationDate="2016-02-09T12:02:03.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would advise popping it out and cleaning it every time, cleanliness is next to godliness or at least next to not having contaminated beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T12:02:03.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17007" CreationDate="2016-02-09T13:04:15.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The utility of ramping up temperature can change wildly depending on yeast strain, pitch rate, wort composition, the fermentation temperature and much more. I wouldn't necessarily pin it to dark ales, but as you mention British Ale yeast, I'll speak to it from that stand point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation does create some of its own heat.  As the fermentation winds down the temperature drops and some of the yeast starts to flocculate.  Ramping up the temperature as fermentation slows keeps more of the yeast in suspension for longer.  English Ale yeasts are particularly well known for dropping out early should the temp drop even a couple degrees.  You can then encourage a drier beer when using English Ale yeasts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does hold true for many other strains of yeast, to differing degrees of success. If you fermented a beer warm (at the high end of its range) ramping up the temp later does little to nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ramping the temp on a lager strain encourages a complete ferment as well as speeds up the process of reabsorbing some fermentation byproducts like acetaldehyde and diacetyl.  (However, it should be noted on the homebrew scale at least, those byproducts are practically a non issue if pitching the correct amount and starting the ferment at a low temp.  But that's a different topic)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T13:04:15.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16998" CreationDate="2016-02-09T13:45:56.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, if it can be taken apart and reassembled without damaging it. I would disassemble clean and store. Then sanitize and reassemble the valve and sanitize the bucket as a whole before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clean sanitary fermenter and it's parts is critical. This is where your wort is most vulnerable to infection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Line brushes are useful if the valve doesn't come apart. Rotate the valve shutoff and clean it in opened and closed positions. Like a revolving door areas to harbor infection get sealed off in different positions. Any wort debris left behind can negate sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T13:52:10.313" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T13:52:10.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16957" CreationDate="2016-02-09T16:59:00.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot depends on how clean your equipment is when you store and how clean the storing environment is.  I often will just give something a spritz of star-san if I know it was kept clean and closed up in storage, because I have an all-indoor environment.  If I kept my equipment in the garage, I would always use full submersion and full contact time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what's more of your time, the 10 minutes to wait for sanitization, or the 10 minutes spend pouring bottle after infected bottle down the drain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3712" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T16:59:00.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17014" CreationDate="2016-02-10T21:05:09.710" Score="2" ViewCount="779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've completed diacetyl rest and transferred to secondary 5 gallon carboy for lagering (say 3-5 weeks). After a few weeks lagering, I anticipate bottling but am curious how adding the priming sugar is going to result in better carbonation. I realize the priming sugar is to be processed by residual yeast, but after practically a month of lagering at 35 degrees F, I'm wondering if the carbonation is going to occur and how long it will take in the bottle. So here are my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is it a good idea to add priming sugar after lagering completes and while bottling for conditioning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Is it helpful to introduce additional yeast during bottling, or is there going to be enough residual yeast to handle the carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Could the lagering carboy be locked (with a plug to prevent escape) to introduce carbonation during lagering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) What's the risk of not introducing any priming sugar during the bottle conditioning? Will this just result in a flat lager?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3999" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T02:58:47.440" Title="Bottle Conditioning Lager with Priming Sugar and/or Yeast" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|lager|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17013" CreationDate="2016-02-11T02:50:00.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, priming sugar is usually added to the carboy or bottling bucket just prior to bottling for ease. However there are &quot;carbonation drops&quot; you can alternately add to each bottle. These are just sugar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can add more yeast, but it's generally not needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No, glass carboys are not designed to hold any pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, the beer will be flat unless fermentaion hasn't completed and lagering is finishing off a couple gravity points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a side point. Kegging gives you much more control and ease. You can still bottle from a force carbonated keg, and have identical consistency in flavor and carbonation from bottle to bottle. Also when pouring from the bottles, you dont have the yeast in the bottom. Too many pros to list here. Cons are $ investment in equipment &amp;amp; gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T02:58:47.440" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T02:58:47.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16386" CreationDate="2016-02-11T13:04:15.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off you are not crazy, adding fruit to alcoholic beverages is an age old process. You have a few options, you can add the peaches to the secondary, minus the syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the peaches are straight from a can they will have been pasteurized so you can add them straight in if you wish. You may want to freeze them first to break down cell walls and extract more flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also add them to your apple juice, as a blended pulp and brew them up in the primary and the rack off to secondary or bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The joy of home brewing is the chance to experiment and see what happens, it may be terrible but you may hit on a genius idea. Try a few batches and see what works. The most important thing is to have fun, and please report back :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T13:04:15.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12924" CreationDate="2016-02-11T13:21:48.350" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ordered some Saccharomyces boulardii and plan to do a test brew this weekend. Going to do 5l/1gallon brew with only pale malt ~1040 OG. Will add a small amount of Perle or saaz depending what is in the freezer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will report back in a week or 2, with the recipe and results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reporting back... [21 Mar 2016]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies it has been a while, I got it going eventually, and I am not convinced that it fermented to completion, sorry took no readings; I will pop a bottle and take some gravity readings. I have bottled it up and tried some yesterday. It was not hideous, there was a faint sulphur tinge to it, but it tasted OK. I would not say great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not get Banana esters off it, but my kitchen has not been that warm ~ 18C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was very cloudy and had not dropped out as I am assuming that s.boulardii has not been selected for this trait. Also, I am not totally convinced it had finished fermenting; it seemed pretty slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll stick a couple of the bottles in the fridge and see if it drops clear or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was doing this again what would I change...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used about 10 capsules in the starter, I would up this closer to 40;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OR I would collect the flocculated sediment and reuse this, thereby selecting for flocculation;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would probably mix it with some ale yeast, to ensure completion in a faster timeframe;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Await further updates....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[06 Apr 2016]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is refusing to drop clear, the flavour is not the most appealing in the world. Sightly harsh and astringent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T11:00:06.977" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T11:00:06.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17018" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:58:45.007" Score="3" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing my second batch and had a bit of an accident yesterday. I brewed 20l two days ago and when I checked my fermenter (bucket) yesterday it had overflown. I don't know what possessed me to open the lid and clean in, instead of just cleaning the mess and airlock, but I did. The bucket was open for maybe 10-15mins. I did clean and sanitize both lid and airlock, so hopefully there's no contamination, but I am worried about oxidation. Should I be? When and how will I know if it happened? Is there any way to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13286" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T20:08:44.130" Title="Worried about oxidation" Tags="|airlock|oxidation|bucket|problems|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17017" CreationDate="2016-02-11T20:08:44.130" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fine. I assume the beer is still actively fermenting, in which case not only will freshly-produced CO₂ (somewhat) displace the O₂ in the headspace, but the yeast can still clean up any O₂ that does dissolve into the young beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many high-gravity beers actually forcibly inject O₂ during the early stages of fermentation to get a solid ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RDWHAHB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T20:08:44.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16841" CreationDate="2016-02-11T20:10:57.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first brew was a Pale Ale and I used Safale US-05. From what I read, fermenting outside the range recommended by the manufacturer should give you some off flavors, but since my temperature controller hadn't arrived in time for my first brew, I fermented at room temperature ~25-26°C and it was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13286" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T20:10:57.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17021" CreationDate="2016-02-12T14:35:14.227" Score="8" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a lot of beers last summer, and I realize that I made more than I could/would drink.  Some (if not most) of my beers don't age well (at basement temperature of 18°C), although they were great after 2 months, I find that after 4 months the flavor is declining fast...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have one peated smoked porter that I made 6 months ago (all grain) that is still great today, but younger it had probably too much flavor.  This makes me think that I could add more hops, more speciality malts (a little more priming sugar?)  to my recipes in order to drink them after 6 months and they will still be good. Basically, I would boost the flavor taking into account that it will mellow out after 6 months...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think this will work with most recipes? &#xA;Any tricks for longer shelf live?(besides putting them in a fridge...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T01:22:57.843" Title="Boosting a recipe for longer shelf life" Tags="|beer|flavor|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17020" CreationDate="2016-02-12T15:28:33.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Do you think this will work with most recipes?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it will. The thing about intentionally stronger flavors is that they tend to mask other &lt;em&gt;unwanted&lt;/em&gt; flavors that develop over time. Precisely why brewing a light beer (say, a Helles) can be so difficult; every little flaw will come through, having no strong flavor to hide it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'...add more hops, more speciality malts (a little more priming sugar?) '&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops: yes (though hop aroma fades quite rapidly, making a fresh, lively hop profile unlikely to survive six months). Specialty malt: yes (the stronger, maltier flavors should serve well to cover up any age-related off-flavors). Priming sugar: probably not (unless it doesn't ferment, leaving sugary sweetness, all this will do is carbonate the beer more). It might be a good idea to just take a recipe and scale it up wholesale (add x% more of &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt;), remembering that higher-alcohol beers tend to age more gracefully than lower-alcohol ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Any tricks for longer shelf live?(besides putting them in a fridge...)'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid oxygen like the plague (this is what ends up taking down most beers in the long run), being particularly wary during transfers. Bottle-conditioning re-invigorates yeast, helping it to scavenge any dissolved oxygen present. Keep the beer out of the sun. If &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt; possible, find a cooler spot (18°C is warm for storing a beer for six months and every degree you can shave off will extend the shelf life, if only a little). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, you're at the mercy of the fact that every beer has a limited best-by lifespan (six months is pushing it for beers of moderate strength) and there's really only so much you can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T15:28:33.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17004" CreationDate="2016-02-12T17:38:16.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your problem really is the O2, I would get something like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Water-Butt-Homebrew-Fermenter-Black/dp/B00R6GJY7G/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Water-Butt-Homebrew-Fermenter-Black/dp/B00R6GJY7G/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;No more removing the lid and it makes bottling so much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly are you trying to brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13286" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T17:38:16.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17020" CreationDate="2016-02-12T22:15:55.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to @FranklinPCombs's answer, if you have a CO2 canister, prefill your bottles with CO2 before filling them.  That will guarantee that the head space contains no free oxygen and might buy you a little more shelf life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T22:15:55.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17020" CreationDate="2016-02-12T23:40:22.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The most important things for a beer to have a long shelf life is the quality of the beer to start with.&lt;/strong&gt; Having a flawless beer will have nothing to hide and will age much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most common problems with hoppy beers is they cover a lot if sins, but as the hops fade they reveal the off flavors that were there all a long. Diacetyl is at the top of a long list of common off flavors that are masked by hops, and usually shows up first. If you have a clean IPA that has lost its pop, you can randel in some fresh life easily. Also a massive dry hop may make a beer undrinkable fresh, but with a few weeks of age be wonderful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most malt forward beers will age well, because few off flavors can be masked by a moderate malt build so if was good fresh, it should be good aged. The aging will meld the malt flavors. Sometimes making a beer with sharp malts flavors meld into a well balanced beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refrigeration helps slow the breakdown of aging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-14T01:22:57.843" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T01:22:57.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17029" CreationDate="2016-02-13T20:07:13.257" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting my first batch of hard cider. I tried re-hydrating my yeast by mixing them with Go-Ferm and warm water, but the must never started fermenting so I added more dry yeast to the batch. Did I ruin the must? What can I expect to happen and what is the possible causes for it to never having started fermenting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13288" LastEditorUserId="8203" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T02:57:14.127" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T02:57:14.127" Title="no fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|cider|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-13T21:27:43.197" Score="0" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember when I was younger and &quot;forties&quot; (40 oz malt beer) were a big thing to drink when you're cool in the hood chilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've since for a good few years or so have been drinking Bud Light and Platinum since it's been available too. I tried a 40 oz of some (Old E.) Old English and boy that was not good tasting to me any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess my question(s):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why mainly does (malt beer) Old English malt 40 oz taste so differently than (regular light) Bud Light (even BL Platinum)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I may just be looking for the basic differences with light beer vs malt beer as in my examples? It can be a breakdown of alcohol content, to usual brewed ingredients, to anything relevant from all you beer experts in here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A BIG Wooo Hooo to Beer Drinkin'!!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13247" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T15:47:19.513" Title="Malt Beer vs. Light Beer" Tags="|beer-styles|taste|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-13T23:18:22.863" Score="4" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate if it was cheap. Also, I saw somewhere you could use a UTZ container from cheese balls. Has anyone tried that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13293" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T18:49:16.487" Title="What can I use for a small-batch fermentation vessel?" Tags="|fermentation|wine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17025" CreationDate="2016-02-14T00:56:53.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the yeast proofed when hydrating it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More detail of your must would help. If you used bottled Apple juice it may have a yeast inhibiting preservative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: if you're sure there are no preservatives, something else is inhibiting the yeast growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast health, it may be dead. Repitch New yeast (check expiration date). Make sure proof water doesn't exceed 90°F. Allow yeast to get to room temp, after removing from fridge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To cold of fermentation temp. Bring it up to 70°F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T15:27:01.987" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T15:27:01.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17026" CreationDate="2016-02-14T01:11:27.677" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For starters they are different styles of beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light lagers have a much lighter mouthfeel almost watery. Cheap commercial versions supplement the mash with corn or rice to keep the ABV high but calories down resulting in Light malt profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Regular Lager like Old English or  Budweiser have less adjuncts like corn or rice and more true malted grains making it have more body and flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-14T15:47:19.513" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T15:47:19.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17028" CreationDate="2016-02-14T01:20:42.587" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on batch size. If your doing 2-3 gallons. I would recommend using glass 1 gallon jugs from wine or Apple juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheeseball containers I believe are made from the same foodgrade plastic as 2 liter soda bottles. They are novel in that they have more volume and a large opening for dry hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think either would be a good fermentor untill you can get into 5 gallon batches using a carboy or brew bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the goal to use glass or stainless steel when you get into larger batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All plastics have sanitation limitations. Basically if they get scratched they can't be relied on to be sanitary anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T01:20:42.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17028" CreationDate="2016-02-14T14:44:04.837" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you live near a good juice bar or restuarant that serves smoothies, ask the sales clerk if they have any empty glass jugs.  Many drinks have an apple juice base and organic apple juice often ships in 1 gallon glass jugs.  I've found two shops that happily give the jugs away for free, though I usually buy a smoothie in gratitude.  Being a tipping patron helps to keep the jug supply flowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorites have a glass ring at the top for easy carrying and take a #6 rubber stopper.  I get them at the juice bar of my local Whole Foods supermarket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T14:44:04.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T05:26:29.733" Score="1" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a newbie just 3 weeks into brewing my first beer. Homebrewing is not very common where I live so I had to made do with what was available. I started with malt extract OG 1.075, yeast Safale Ale S-04 Whitbread Strain and Cooper's Ale. Hops: Cascade. FG is 1.01&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly should I call what I have brewed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a million. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T18:24:22.480" Title="What exactly is the type of beer I made?" Tags="|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17033" CreationDate="2016-02-15T07:20:52.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Congratulations on your first brew!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest putting the ingedient details into some brew software many are free in the form of phone apps or web based. Give it a Google. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The limited information you have given isn't enough to go on. We need malt type and amount, batch volume, hop weight, age and boil duration of hops to even guess a style based on vitals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2015_Guidelines_Beer.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bjcp.org has the 2015 style guidlines&lt;/a&gt; where you can compare your vitals, ingredients and fermentation type to established styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But ulitmatly, it will come down to how it tastes, smells and appears once it's done .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the limited details it leans to a strong American ale 8.5% ABV while not a style in itself it's a start. 22A is Double IPA with IBU 60-120, 22B is American Strong Ale IBU 50-100. There's a lot of differences between the two, though the IBUs overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T18:24:22.480" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T18:24:22.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16992" CreationDate="2016-02-15T16:18:54.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question is really dependent on which stage of the fermentation your mead was in. &#xA;If it was shaken during the aerobic phase... perfect. The yeast require oxygen to divide cells and prepare for active fermentation.&#xA;If the shaking occurred during the rapid/active ferment then you are still OK as shaking here won't destroy any yeast nor will any oxidation have effect. The only time adding oxygen to your mead is bad would be after degassing. It would take quite a bit and deliberate methods as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast are durable little guys and there's no way to hurt them short of extreme temps and sanitizing products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now as for the whole oxidizing the mead fear is related to you... This would only affect your mead in long term storage life. More than 5-8 years before any results would be noticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T16:18:54.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7271" CreationDate="2016-02-15T17:19:19.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great details stored here:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/mead/item/456-chocolate-malt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/mead/item/456-chocolate-malt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;There are a few different versions of chocolate malt on the market, ranging anywhere from the pale stuff (at around 200 °L) to the dark English (~500 °L). Using a broad brush, the English versions are usually the darkest and the American versions the lightest. Whichever you choose, be sure to account for the differing degree of color (as rated in degrees Lovibond) because 1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) of chocolate malt at 400 °L yields a different color in 5 gallons (19 L) of beer than than 1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) at 500 °L. British chocolate malt is made from 2-row malt while domestic chocolate may be made from either 2-row or 6-row malt. If you have a preference for 2-row, as I do, check the malt specifications.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T17:19:19.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16794" CreationDate="2016-02-16T08:21:22.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I place the fermentation vessel in a room that naturally has lower temperature than I desire for fermentation. Then I place a small heater inside the room and control power to the heater with a temperatur sensitive socket insert. That way I use the rooms natural temperatur to lower the fermentation temperature, and the heater to increase it. This works nice and is a very cheap solution, as long as you have a cold room. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For lager beer I place the fermentation vessel in a old fridge, and place the temperature sensitive socket insert between the fridges and the house power. That way I use the fridge to cool the vessel and the ambient temperature in the room where the fridge is to rise it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13296" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T08:21:22.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15003" CreationDate="2016-02-16T16:09:42.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should get the water to at least 160 for a few minutes to pasteurize it. Another reason to heat it up is to help thin out the thick and syrupy LME. Also, if you want to extract any bitterness from the hops you'll have to boil them for at least 15 minutes to isomerize the alpha acids. The more bitterness you want the longer you need to boil, hence Dogfish Head's 60 and 90 Minute IPAs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13303" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T16:09:42.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16901" CreationDate="2016-02-16T16:21:52.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you pitch a mixed blend each microbe acts on different sugars and other chemicals at different times as the environment in the wort changes to each microbes optimum environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only pitch saccharomyces first then it can potentially create an environment that other microbes like &lt;em&gt;Lacto&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Brett&lt;/em&gt; can't survive in. For example &lt;em&gt;Lacto&lt;/em&gt; doesn't work well in high IBU or high ABV environments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to pitch different microbes at different times you can follow the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Mixed_Fermentation#Modern_Method_-_Fast_Fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Milk the Funk Fast Fermentation Method&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13303" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T16:21:52.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15003" CreationDate="2016-02-16T20:42:39.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling extract achieves a few things. Most important it kills many bacteria and wild yeast that might have made it's way into the wort. Even with properly sanitised equipment there is a risk that there is something in the water or even drifting in the air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also boiling the extract will also make it darker and change the flavour a bit, so when you do this cold you will get a different beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned on some of the other answers you will not get much bitterness out of the hop unless you boil it, but you can still get aroma by dry hopping. You could make a hop tea as you suggest. Note that the amount of water you boil hop in affect how much your able to extract from it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is to boil the extract and most of the water, then cool it down rapidly by dumping ice into it. That way you remove the bacteria and yeast in the wort by boiling. At the same time you can boil the hops. Normally you would boil hops 30-60 minutes to get bitterness, and less to get aroma. Extract on the other hand is usually only boiled 10 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also want to mention that some of the wort chiller are very good and easy to use, and in the end might be the easiest way to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13296" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T20:42:39.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-16T21:05:19.533" Score="2" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started brewing and have completed three batches so far (Amber/Pale Ale). However, each batch seems to have that distinct green apple flavor to it. It's gone down a bit with each batch but even as my latest batch conditions I still smell a small amount of it. I've been reading forums and researching possible causes and still can't seem to fix this issue. Here's a summary of the latest batch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Grains steeped in 170F and boil done using malt extract.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Wort aerated with a stirring stick for about five minutes until a thick head of foam appears. OG reading of ~1.050  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Wyeast smack pack is now ready after ~4 hours to get started, pitched in to ~70F wort in a plastic bucket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Airlock activity starts ~12 hours later and lasts for ~24 hours before stopping.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-A thick krausen forms and lasts for about a week before settling back down. ~10 days after pitching the FG reads ~1.010. Acetaldehyde smell is present by this point.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Wort is re-racked to a secondary for conditioning. It's been seven days since re-racking and I'm going to add the dry hops tonight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to improve my process? Am I adding enough yeast? Should i use pure O2 for aerating? Would switching to an all-grain brew help? I've been meticulous about sanitizing with StarSan so I don't think sanitization is my issue. Any advice would be welcome, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13109" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T23:37:14.467" Title="Struggling with acetaldehyde" Tags="|first-time-brewer|acetaldehyde|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17043" CreationDate="2016-02-16T21:36:04.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetaldehyde is most often caused by aeration of the wort.  I would suggest trying a batch where you do not rack to secondary, as this could be the point in time where the oxidation is occurring.  Or you could try purging the secondary vessel with CO2 prior to racking.  Also make sure that you have a good solid flow of wort during racking, the introduction of oxygen can occur where your tubing connects to the racking cane if it is not well sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pure O2, and/or the all-grain process will not improve this.  They add complications to the brew process.  Get this mastered first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13307" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T21:36:04.963" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-17T03:02:24.960" Score="2" ViewCount="842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a one gallon batch of blackberry wine. What type of yeast would you recommend? I would like the wine to be on the sweet side. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13293" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T20:07:34.940" Title="Blackberry wine yeast?" Tags="|yeast|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16648" CreationDate="2016-02-17T03:12:52.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend has tried this with Concord grapes and it was okay. The recipe he used was on this page: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.baderbrewing.com/content/how-make-wine-concord-table-grapes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.baderbrewing.com/content/how-make-wine-concord-table-grapes&lt;/a&gt;&quot; Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13293" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T03:12:52.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17106" CreationDate="2016-02-17T06:24:36.173" Score="8" ViewCount="1646" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does any one have suggestions on podcasts about homebrewing? Preferably a short excerpt about what topics they bring up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12849" LastActivityDate="2022-08-27T17:43:29.713" Title="Good homebrewing podcasts?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|brewing|media|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-03-02T00:47:01.150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17045" CreationDate="2016-02-17T06:36:13.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you specifically interested in wine other wise I would go with a champagne yeast. I made a batch of champagne out of sloe berry juice and it turned out great. To sweeten the champagne you can add more juice or other fruit juices when re bottling it. Make sure that you take the first fermentation to at least 10-12% as bottles may explode if you add to much sugar when bottle fermenting. (You will need to make your own calculations on this depending on the yeast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few yeasts that could be used for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp715-champagne-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WLP715&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/red-star-pasteur-champagne.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Redstar Pasteur Blanc&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/lalvin-ec-1118-champagne.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lavin EC-1118&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several others but one of these should do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be a good idea to use smaller bottles. I din't use champagne bottles as those are expensive. I just used smaller bottles about 750ml. Here is a picture of the bottles I used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNbqBm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNbqBm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12849" LastEditorUserId="12849" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T06:42:34.007" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T06:42:34.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-17T07:07:07.720" Score="3" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hCdaB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hCdaB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Odd film at top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for reference, I got the Everyday IPA kit from Brooklyn Brew Shop for christmas, and I just got around to using it last week. This is day 4 of the fermentation period, and I just switched the airlock on in place of the blowoff tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the heavy bubbling from the first few days of fermentation, theres this weird film at the top of the jug. Can anyone tell me what this is and if it's bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13311" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T14:29:26.907" Title="First time homebrewing, odd film in jug (not on top of beer)" Tags="|beer|brewing|ipa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17047" CreationDate="2016-02-17T07:07:28.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend Experimental Homebrewing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13312" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T07:07:28.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17047" CreationDate="2016-02-17T11:43:33.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer smith is nice, that created of the software with the same name interviews different beer experts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13296" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T11:43:33.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17047" CreationDate="2016-02-17T12:27:21.107" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/&quot;&gt;Brewing Network&lt;/a&gt; should be your starting point. Download The Jamil Show, Brew Strong and Brewing With Style and listen to everything from the start. Yes, it is a LOT of podcasts, but you will learn so many things! There are other podcasts on the network, but I will recommend those to start with.&#xA;Topics: EVERYTHING. They cover all topics, from very basic to the very advanced. They chat with home brewers and pro brewers and random people in between. &#xA;Warning: The shows may contain foul humor/language. Some content may not be family safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio&quot;&gt;Basic Brewing Radio&lt;/a&gt; is the other podcast that you should download and listen to from the start.&#xA;Topics: EVERYTHING! Very similar to the podcast above, but more &quot;professional&quot; and family friendly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tip: Listen to the podcasts on 1.5 speed, then you get through them in a shorter time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy listening!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T12:27:21.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17049" CreationDate="2016-02-17T12:43:49.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you referring to the cream colored gunk on the top (above the beer level)? If so, it is yeast, proteins and a few other things that got stuck to the side during krauzening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all beers do this and it is not a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy the beer, I got the same kit a few years ago! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T12:43:49.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17049" CreationDate="2016-02-17T14:29:26.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say &quot;not on top of beer&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways the cream color on top and bottom are normal and signs of a good fermentation. On top is what dried to the bottle after the krauesen fell back in, the bottom is much the same mostly yeast trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy the beer looks to be doing well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T14:29:26.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17057" CreationDate="2016-02-17T22:08:57.980" Score="8" ViewCount="16313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started home brewing, have studied up on the issues associated with methanol/fusel alcohols, and I'm wondering if there are certain practices that can be used to minimize non-ethanol alcohols, or other harmful things in home brews?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard that the first ferment of wine should be anoxic, but then I hear in other places that it needs oxygen, or might produce more fusel alcohols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about nutrients? agitating the brew? other factors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13318" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T14:44:31.573" Title="How can I minimize methanol/fusel alcohols in wine?" Tags="|techniques|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17060" CreationDate="2016-02-18T02:38:53.787" Score="2" ViewCount="3294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a 5 gallon ball lock corny keg, but am having nothing but trouble with it.  I was originally getting nothing but foam coming out of it, so I upgraded the liquid line from 5 feet to 10 feet.  After the conversion, I would get a lot of air pockets in the beer line, and eventually it just stopped flowing altogether.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the keg has pressure (from pulling the relief valve)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The liquid line dip tube going into the keg is not clogged.  &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The poppet came loose once and beer went flying everywhere.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There don't seem to be any leaks anywhere in the setup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;####Edit 1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The poppet in the liquid post keeps falling out and will not stay up in the post, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i828.photobucket.com/albums/zz208/sj_fz6/P1000146.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.857" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T15:23:54.007" Title="Nothing coming out of tap (ball lock corny keg)" Tags="|keg|corny-keg|kegerator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17055" CreationDate="2016-02-18T02:45:34.340" Score="6" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you have a healthy yeast in the proper pitch amount. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment primary at the cold end of the yeast strains tolerance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A long secondary / aging helps break down fusel alcohols.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast needs nutrients and oxygen mainly for their growth phase. This can be substituted by pitching a massive amount of yeast. For example pitching wort on top of a yeast cake from a beer that just finished primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T02:45:34.340" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17056" CreationDate="2016-02-18T03:22:24.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the dip tube and gas tube got reversed when it was rebuilt, or the tube is missing its oring. But then you would have gas comming out the faucet (not &quot;nothing&quot;) and would hear bubbling from c02 going in through the dip tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is &quot;nothing&quot; comming out not even gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clogged dip tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clogged nipple valve &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad ball / pin lock (not depressing nipple valve)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to fix, if ball lock&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure gas (white) goes to nipple labled &quot;in&quot; and (black) goes to nipple labeled &quot;out&quot;. White locks fit both in and out nipples, black only fits out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove ball locks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release all pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitize top of keg and remove the out nipple. Remove the tube make sure it's the long one, clean and clear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect the nipple valve, by plugging in into a disconnected black ball lock and run it under water, it should flow easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitize and reassemble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Or it could be you broke the tap. If it's not a perlick, the ball lever may have broke. Allowing handle movment but not opening the slide valve.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T10:34:23.890" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T10:34:23.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17056" CreationDate="2016-02-18T15:23:54.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You MUST have the poppet in place.  And it must be working properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two poppets that work together. One in the post on the keg as pictured AND there is also one inside the beverage line disconnect.  It is usually a clear like plastic nub.  Both poppets are spring loaded, and need to push on each other to create an open path for liquid to flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you are missing the poppet on the keg there is nothing to open the poppet in the beverage line connector.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Also, faulty poppets due to failing springs or miss seated issues will partially open the poppets which can cause excessive foaming as well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T15:23:54.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-18T16:31:44.250" Score="2" ViewCount="3108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my first batch of mead a few years ago, and it tasted like nail-polish remover when I first tasted it.  I put it away and forgot about it, then pulled it out about 6 months later when looking for something to drink, sampled it more out of masochism than anything else, and it was sweet, rich, and tasted beautiful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My most recent batch tasted similar at first tasting, but its now about 18 months later, and it still tastes that way.  I think I under-sugared it, but don't know for sure what I did.  I made a split batch, using 6 different yeasts and some with some fruit, and they all taste this way, so I'm pretty sure I did something wrong, and it's not just a batch gone bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to try to save it at this point, or is it time to pour it down the sink and try again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3388" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T17:28:28.737" Title="Sour, almost bitter mead" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17063" CreationDate="2016-02-18T16:48:10.577" Score="3" ViewCount="1514" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the best of my understanding of making beer, wort must first be properly aerated to provide oxygen for the yeast to multiply when first added to the wort. After all the oxygen is consumed, the yeast switch from being aerobic to anaerobic and begin producing CO2 and alcohol. Having a lot of healthy yeast is important, but the goal is to get them all into an anaerobic state to produce alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, does opening a fermentation bucket and exposing the wort to oxygen cause the yeast to go back into an aerobic state? I'd like to periodically check the gravity of the beer (while being very careful with sanitation) to how much and how quickly my beer is fermenting, but I'm afraid to risk hurting the yeast with early exposure to oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13145" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T20:45:53.227" Title="How much does oxygen exposure to wort affect yeast being aerobic or anaerobic?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17062" CreationDate="2016-02-18T17:55:53.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opening the fermentation bucket will not add sufficient oxygen to affect the work of the yeast. When the liquid is sitting still, very little oxygen will move into solution. &#xA;(FWIW, I push my bottling wand through the hole for the airlock and withdraw my sample that way)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T17:55:53.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17062" CreationDate="2016-02-18T19:05:09.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend removing a brew bucket lid at all once fermentation is underway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always use the small ports for samples, racking, even with dry hopping. Though it's not as easy as just tossing in a hop bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a great experiment that shows just how fast CO2 mixes with air once given the chance. By floating a balloon of air in a sealed container of CO2, it sinks very quickly once the container has an opening, even though CO2 is heavier than air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;url=http://colinb-sciencebuzz.blogspot.com/2010/01/if-co2-is-so-heavy-why-doesnt-it-sink.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How CO2 behaves with air&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T19:11:11.190" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T19:11:11.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1868" CreationDate="2016-02-18T19:43:51.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Red X malt may give you that red color you're looking for, but it is way too malty,IMO.  I've tried it in multiple quantities, from the whole base malt, to a few pounds of the grist, to a few ounces in the grain bill. Never been satisfied with the results. Personally I'd rather take my chances elsewhere&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13323" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T13:45:08.470" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T13:45:08.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-18T21:04:08.527" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;The beers that I tend to really like have that pleasant finishing taste before the after taste.  What influences a beer's finish?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to take some styles that I like that leave a little bit to desire and give it that last little oomph and complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is subjective to the beer style then I'd like to narrow it down to a Witbier.  Some Wit's I've tasted were okay but needed that wheat taste at the finish to really shine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I on the right track in my thinking that it can be pinpointed that you can do x to add flavor to the finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13126" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T21:40:28.187" Title="What influences the finishing taste in your beer?" Tags="|all-grain|flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17066" CreationDate="2016-02-18T21:40:28.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of times, you can add something to the secondary fermentation for a finishing taste.  For instance, if you added cocoa nibs to secondary, you'd end up with chocolate on the finish.  If you added a fruity hop (like Galaxy) to secondary, you'd pick up on melon or passion fruit on the finish.  I've seen folks cold brew coffee and add that for a coffee finish.  Remember, a little of something can go a long way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T21:40:28.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17068" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T00:54:42.873" Score="1" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having some real trouble getting the poppet to sit correctly in the liquid post of my keg.  Below is an image with the poppet in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t647/ml9951/9b30961b-6468-44b4-a3f4-a4b7f20993c9_zpsd7seyiw4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that there is a sizable gap between the poppet o-ring and the post itself.  I'm using a universal poppet, but it doesn't seem to be tall enough.  Below is a picture of what the connection looks like underneath the post (sorry it's a bit blurry):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t647/ml9951/6b07db4e-a5e6-4eb2-9136-1bffc592b23e_zps1yii3g7r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else had this problem?  Any ideas how to fix it?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:46.867" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T01:44:40.843" Title="Poppet not sitting correctly in liquid post." Tags="|kegging|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17068" CreationDate="2016-02-19T01:44:40.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a dip tube + o-ring there on top of the threads of the post? I can't quite make one out in the blurriness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even the height of a dip-tube lip + oring might not be enough to bridge that gap, which appears to be substantial. If not, perhaps the spring on the universal poppet is simply cut too short, and needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not try to introduce a shim to bridge the gap, but instead replace the univeral poppet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T01:44:40.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17073" CreationDate="2016-02-19T03:02:40.753" Score="3" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an IPA recipe that makes heavy use of Mosaic and El Dorado hops.  I think that adding some tropical fruit to the recipe would accentuate the hops quite well.  I buy frozen mango a lot and was wondering if this is OK to use.  If so, do I need to take any special precautions regarding sanitation?  I had originally planned on pureeing it and adding it to secondary.  Thoughts?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12273" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T04:41:27.500" Title="Brewing with fruit" Tags="|fermentation|fruit|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17070" CreationDate="2016-02-19T05:48:03.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add canned fruit.  Check the label to make sure it does not contain preservatives.  Consider blending it in sanitized blender.  Often people add it at the end of the primary fermentation to help prevent the fermentation being too vigorous and making a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Canned fruit is pasteurized.  Frozen fruit could contain pathogens that are not killed by freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people have added frozen fruit with success.  Freezing breaks cell membranes releasing the juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could pasteurize frozen fruit juice.  Boiling it will set the pectin leading to cloudy brew but it will taste fine.  You can pasteurize below the temperature that sets pectin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8399" LastEditorUserId="8399" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T06:03:54.730" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T06:03:54.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T13:34:03.867" Score="3" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed an All Grain Peanut Butter Porter using Pb2 and I am looking to get some grape jelly flavor in there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used east Kent Goldings at 60, and that was it with a Belgian Ale yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couldn't find much from Jack's Abbey or Funky Buddha on their process.  What I did find is that &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; English Ale yeast can bring out a fruity component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips from the masters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastEditorUserId="7921" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T20:21:16.853" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T16:02:43.540" Title="How to Get Grape Jelly Flavor in Porter?" Tags="|yeast|all-grain|flavor|porter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17070" CreationDate="2016-02-19T14:27:55.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use frozen fruit often.  While it thaws mash it lightly to break it up, put on the bottom of the secondary and rack on top of it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the best I have found to get the most flavor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T14:27:55.643" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17028" CreationDate="2016-02-19T16:22:06.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check at your local bakery. Most of them get frosting in 5-10lb buckets. These are (obviously) food grade and have a good seal. Likely they will simply give them to you if you ask. You might have to enlist some small children to help you get the last of the frosting out of the bucket :), but after that and a good rinse with hot water all you have to do is drill a hole for an airlock and install it with a grommet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T16:22:06.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17028" CreationDate="2016-02-19T18:49:16.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of good answers here, but I'd like to chime in with my favorite small-batch fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For small, 1-gallon batches, I like to use &lt;strong&gt;4L glass wine jugs&lt;/strong&gt; (I typically use Carlo Rossi, but any brand will do as long as it's glass). Since the jugs are a little larger than 1 gallon, they also offer a bit of extra headspace, so you can actually start with a full gallon (ie, make more wine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wine itself is pretty cheap (~$12-$15 USD) and is usually passable. If you can't bring yourself to choke it down (or find some friends to help out), it's usually decent for cooking. Some homebrew shops also sell the empty jugs for ~$2 -$3 USD (YMMV, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TLDR:&lt;/strong&gt; For less than $15 USD, you can get 4L of wine (yay?) and a sturdy small-batch fermenter that will last for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T18:49:16.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17043" CreationDate="2016-02-19T23:37:14.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What OGs are you pitching a single Wyeast pack into? Those smack packs are for proving yeast viability; they aren't a self-contained sufficient starter for worts over 1.035 (at 5 gallons) or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12099" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T23:37:14.467" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17070" CreationDate="2016-02-20T00:44:37.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a 3rd option that has worked well for me. Process can be found in the book Extreme Brewing by Sam Calagione (dogfish head brewing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fruit Rest.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Make your fruit addition at 150-170° on your wort chill down and hold temp for 20-30 minutes. This pasteurizes the fruit and allows it to meld with the wort, so it becomes a true fermentable addition to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly recommend looking at the chart in book as each fruit type has different temps and durations for best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T00:44:37.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-20T03:42:37.707" Score="4" ViewCount="3782" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi guys it's my third brew I have done. I'm a bit worried about an infection. My brew is at day 7 and there is a lot of foam on the surface, also it doesn't smell like my first one( which was a success). My second brew I poured out for the same reason. Is this change in foam and smell because of a change in beer type. Or two infections in a row. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I clean my fermenter and utensils extremely thoroughly. All I can think of would be the kettle I use to fill it with.&#xA;Any help please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13326" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T18:03:27.420" Title="Foam on top of fermentation keg" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17078" CreationDate="2016-02-20T04:36:26.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like krausen to me. Search images of &quot;krausen&quot; on the internet or have a look at this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJ-M4ZFw5Fs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJ-M4ZFw5Fs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T04:36:26.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17070" CreationDate="2016-02-20T04:41:27.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always soak frozen fruit in grain alcohol (e.g. everclear) to sanitize then rack beer onto it for secondary.&#xA;Frozen fruits have the potential for contamination so sanitizing is important, and alcohol will sanitize without giving off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13328" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T04:41:27.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1868" CreationDate="2016-02-20T17:10:48.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the sake of completeness,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider using &lt;strong&gt;Melanoidin malt&lt;/strong&gt; in your bill (used at 5-10% depending on the flavour you're aiming at). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Melanoidin will contribute rich malty sweetness to your brew and will help with that red colour you're looking for (but not on its own).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13331" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T17:10:48.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17085" CreationDate="2016-02-20T21:35:22.137" Score="2" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its been fermenting for about 10 days, and I'm just now noticing these white spots.&#xA;Is this what the start of an infection looks like? If so, is there anything I should do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zOCO7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zOCO7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/svIEI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/svIEI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13267" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T11:40:42.343" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T11:40:42.343" Title="Is my batch contaminated(&quot;infected&quot;)?" Tags="|stout|contamination|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16993" CreationDate="2016-02-20T22:35:27.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option is to make an ethanolic cannabis extract, then add it your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're seeking the psychoactive effects of weed, not just the unique aromas that are often associated with it,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your process would look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bake the cannabis in order to convert the THCA into THC, and possibly CBN. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak the weed in a neutral, high-abv spirit, to extract the cannabinoids and other compounds. Doing this would also get rid of most contaminants.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add to beer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest is up to you.&#xA;There's a lot of experimentation to be done - &#xA;try different amounts, different soaking periods, different baking methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keep in mind:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High abv spirits might alter your beer's final abv significantly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your beer might get cloudy due to the &quot;Ouzo effect&quot; which is essentially an emulsion between the extracted cannabis oils and water in the beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13333" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T22:35:27.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17082" CreationDate="2016-02-21T00:30:16.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like the yeast is still eating all that goodness as long as it smells okay don't worry wait a few days remove the air lock smell it then take a reading..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13334" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T00:30:16.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17082" CreationDate="2016-02-21T02:35:10.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like flocculant yeast, if you look close it should be the same color as the trub on the bottom if it is. May see them pulling off and coming to the top, but it's hard to see in a dark beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like it's still putting off CO2. All that should fall back in as fermentation finishes off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T07:50:33.493" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T07:50:33.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-21T07:08:10.077" Score="5" ViewCount="1993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to make my first ever fermented ginger beer. I want to use it in the cocktail recipes of my bar, but it need to be at below 0.5% abv to be legal for me to produce and sell.&#xA;My problem is that all the recipes I find are not suitable, because the final product must be always kept in a fridge and always consumed within 6 days, or the alcohol level may grow, as well as the pressure of the bottle, and I'd like to not have bottle bombs in my workplace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if it is possible to make a almost total alcohol-free fermented ginger beer, which can be safely bottled in glass bottles, and kept room-temperature for a long period of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how do famous ginger beer brands like boundaberg and old jamaica solve those problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13336" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T10:49:50.847" Title="How to make a fermented, low-alcohol ginger beer to sell in a bar?" Tags="|beer|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17086" CreationDate="2016-02-21T15:38:02.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 0.5% Abv is an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you're limited to adding a yeast and bacteria inhibiting preservative or pasturizing at the right point. Then force carbonating and bottling. Sanitation would need to be near sterile conditions after pasturizing. Normal sanitization should suffice if using preservatives, but would still have a shelf life based on preservative decay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T15:38:02.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17072" CreationDate="2016-02-21T16:02:43.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a second batch you can try ester enhancement, but I don't know of a yeast that will give this ester in the amount you want without it being clouded with other esters and phenols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He'Brew Rejewvenator actually brews with concord and merlot grapes. There are many answers here how to do fruit additions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would try actually is a post fermenation flavor addition on the porter you have now. Reduce some Manischewitz concord grape wine in a pot to the consistency of hot syrup. Using a beaker and pipet (or measuring cup and spoons) make additions of the reduction to small sample like 200ml. If you get the flavor you like then you scale the addition up to the full keg volume. You will need a preservative or cold storage to prevent secondary fermentation of the new sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T16:02:43.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17086" CreationDate="2016-02-21T20:32:02.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The commercial brands terminate fermentation through pasteurization before the ABV gets above the FDA required 0.5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I see to deal with this at home is to limit the amount of sugar so it the total ferment doesn't exceed 0.5%ABV.  In the bar setting you could make up for the lack of sweetness with your simple syrup when making the cocktail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO, the fermentation character doesn't seem worth the hassle.  Seems better to make the ginger beer recipes you see but not to add yeast.  Carbonate it with your water carbonator and call it good.  Either that or just go back to buying Ginger beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T20:32:02.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-22T10:43:54.060" Score="3" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought some bottled blueberries, and after eating most of them left the remainder in their liquid (a light syrup). After several months in the cupboard it's fizzy, alcoholic, and quite pleasant tasting... but is it safe to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13340" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T12:41:53.150" Title="Accidentally made blueberry wine - but is it safe?" Tags="|fruit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17092" CreationDate="2016-02-22T12:10:31.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Most likely&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wine will never spoil so that it is dangerous to humans, but that is assuming that it actually fermented to a decent alcohol level. Alcohol will kill most bacterias and preserve the liquid. However if the bottle was open, keep an eye out for bugs and other things that can have fallen into it. Baring that it should be perfectly safe to drink, or at least as safe as any liquid containing alcohol can be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13296" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T12:41:53.150" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T12:41:53.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17095" CreationDate="2016-02-22T14:08:52.303" Score="3" ViewCount="1563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started using a yeast starter for the last two beers. So far I haven't shielded it from the light. Should I?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is currently aging - the second was pitched yesterday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking light is generally considered bad for beer - hence the use of opaque buckets and amber bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T21:48:17.853" Title="Should a yeast starter be kept in the dark?" Tags="|yeast-starters|light|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17094" CreationDate="2016-02-22T14:32:38.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beeradvocate.com/articles/527/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer Advocate&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is when the beer has been exposed to ultraviolet light for a period of time. Hop-derived molecules, called isohumulones, are basically ripped apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So unless you're adding hops to your starter (which you shouldn't be), light shouldn't be much an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T14:32:38.127" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17096" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-22T16:32:04.423" Score="2" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;When brewing for an occasion in the summer, like a wedding, an anniversary party, I might want to make several different kinds of beer. Neither me nor the average Joe necessarily have the time or equipment to brew intensively just before the event, so I have to start during winter and spread the brewing out over the entire half year to make it work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is already an &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/815/13277&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; on beer storage on this site with the general recommendation of high alcohol content, amongst other things. I am curious, however, if it is possible to make this more specific, with an overview of which established beer styles might work for semi-long term storage while still keeping their character, and perhaps more importantly, which styles absolutely doesn't work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious answer is perhaps to brew dark, malty ales, but in my opinion these are not well suited for sunny summers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13277" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T15:32:04.623" Title="Planning brewing towards an occasion over an extended period of time with regards to storage" Tags="|beer|brewing|storage|aging|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17092" CreationDate="2016-02-22T17:33:55.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Impossible to know based on the data supplied.&#xA;Consume at your own risk.  Likely its fine, but its impossible to give the right answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T17:33:55.840" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17102" CreationDate="2016-02-22T18:22:59.103" Score="2" ViewCount="3224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the opportunity to get some hardware for my Keggle and I am looking at a weldless sight glass with a T shape that will allow me to screw on a thermo probe compression fitting.  If I buy it I will be installing it at the same height as my welded fitting with the ball valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is Where is the best place to install a thermometer on a brew kettle and would there be any issues with installing it 2-3 inches above the bottom of the kettle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that there will be a small differential in the temp closest to the bottom of the kettle as the middle when boiling wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13126" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T22:49:51.417" Title="Temperature Probe placement on brew kettle" Tags="|equipment|kettle|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17098" CreationDate="2016-02-22T20:26:40.060" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do you need a thermometer in a brew kettle?  Water boils at 212°F (100°C) at sea level everywhere on the planet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T20:26:40.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17086" CreationDate="2016-02-22T20:31:10.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The commercial brands force carbonate their sodas rather than naturally carbonate them.  If you kegged the soda, you could force carb them.  The only way that I know to stop fermentation is chemically (Potassium Sorbate, for instance) but to get it mixed, you'd release the CO2 that you added with the yeast.  Otherwise, I'd mix it up normally according to the recipe and use Soda Water instead of regular water, but that's likely to go flat too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T20:31:10.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17096" CreationDate="2016-02-22T21:22:21.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most all lagers if you can lager for months you can have some great beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fruit Cream Ales are nice for summer, can be done as ales or lagers, often mixed fermentation with both ale and Lager yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steer away from hoppy beers as this flavor and aroma is first to fade with age. Brew these in the final weeks of your events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Malty beers meld great with age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High abv beers do well to mellow fusel alcohols. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concider Apple Wines (high abv ciders) easy to make and do very well with a little age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the bjcp.org 2015 style guidlines to see what fits for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T15:32:04.623" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T15:32:04.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17098" CreationDate="2016-02-22T21:33:37.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally you want your thermometer in the midline of your average batch. In a keggle you want it slightly below that first rib if you ever do 5gal batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biggest thing is to make sure it doesn't get in the way of your immersion chiller if you use one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't have much use on a boil kettle other than for cool down, hops rests, maybe estimating when boil will start etc. A turkey fryer style thermometer works just fine for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T21:33:37.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17094" CreationDate="2016-02-22T21:48:17.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really depends if you use hops or not. I always put a few pellets in for thier antimictobial properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it depends when and how you pitch your starters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light + hops would be bad If your starter is just to reduce lag time ie pitching it at high krausen. While this is common it's mostly of those that have never tasted a starter and ignorantly add all those bad phenols and esters to thier beer when pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your starter has only one real purpose, to grow healthy yeast in an amount for a proper pitch. Yeast health is the most important thing.  You shouldn't care what phenols and esters it makes. Then you decant and only pitch the yeast not the starter liquid. In this case light doesn't matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T21:48:17.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6070" CreationDate="2016-02-22T22:09:06.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen pros store sanitizer in the plate chiller, just pump it in and cap it. Then when you push wort through, you simply wait for it to push the sanitizer out, as far as gross debris, PBW and some Really hot water does the trick for everything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13342" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T22:09:06.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5913" CreationDate="2016-02-23T02:32:04.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you plan on getting true &quot;witbier&quot; bottle conditioned taste, and carbonation,I suggest bottling as soon as fermentation ends.An important aspect ive found of brewing this style,and more importantly of getting the flavors you crave from a true White,is as much yeast as possible into the bottle.This yeast will carbonate and further flavor this style in the bottle as its last act before going dormant.If you wait too long,and the more of the yeast that goes dormant in the fermenter,the &#xA;more chance of &quot;duds&quot;at drinking time(not carbed,or soft carbonation)and at its worse,being completely off the mark flavor wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If for some reason bottling did not happen in the small &quot;golden time&quot; window,adding yeast at bottling time is highly recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13343" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T02:32:04.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17047" CreationDate="2016-02-23T09:34:10.893" Score="8" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Basic Brewing Radio&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic brewing, Interviews Gravity, Malts, Equipment, Quality, Everything&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Episodes: 50+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Brew Strong&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water treatment, Interviews, Mead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/category/shows/brewstrong/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/category/shows/brewstrong/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Episodes: 50+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The Jamil Show&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recieps, Brewing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/category/shows/jamilshow/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/category/shows/jamilshow/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Episodes: 50+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Brewing TV&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interviews, Brewing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewingtv.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brewingtv.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Episodes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Experimental Homebrewing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experimental brewing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.experimentalbrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.experimentalbrew.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Episodes: 5+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The Perfect Pour Craft Beer Podcast&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Craft beer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://theperfectpour.podbean.com/category/craft-beer-podcasts/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://theperfectpour.podbean.com/category/craft-beer-podcasts/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Episodes: 100+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Craft beer academy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Craftbeer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://craftbeeracademy.com/category/podcast/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://craftbeeracademy.com/category/podcast/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Episodes: 20+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some more:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://microbrewr.com/best-craft-beer-podcasts/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://microbrewr.com/best-craft-beer-podcasts/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12849" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T05:33:35.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-23T10:34:23.107" Score="3" ViewCount="9990" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi guys I'm new to home brewing I've brewed 3 ales so far but always used coopers carbonation drops, I've looked through lots of forums and most say to buy another bucket. I do not have the room for another bucket so I have to bottle straight from fermenting bucket.I have 1 pint spring top bottles so I'm asking how much table sugar to use per bottle ?. I'm brewing Geordie winter warmer @ 22 degrees and short brewed to 20 liters. I know I've got a tedious task of bottling but I have to do it, any suggestions welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13345" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T12:52:06.850" Title="How much table sugar to use in bottling" Tags="|priming|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17107" CreationDate="2016-02-23T12:27:02.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online calculator&lt;/a&gt; I assumed a vol of CO2 of 2.4 (similar to Pale Ale), at 22C for 20L.&#xA;You need ~110-112grams of table sugar total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try and divide that per the number of bottles if you want, but that is super tedious.  I'd recommend dissolving that sugar in a set amount of preboiled water, then transferring the proper fraction of water into each bottle prior filling each bottle with the beer. For example, if you were going to fill 40 bottles, I'd dissolve the sugar in 400ml of water and then add 10ml of sugar solution to each bottle. (Not to totally geek out but if you add 110grams of sugar to 400ml of water you'll have more than 400ml, so you need to first dilute in say 300ml then add water to 400ml to be accurate).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't do 10mls accurately then do #bottles * tables spoons or something you can measure.  Then its 1 TBSP per bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T12:27:02.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17107" CreationDate="2016-02-23T12:29:33.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of sugar you need for carbonation depends a lot on what style of beer you are trying to make. In general, lighter, fresher beer styles like &lt;code&gt;pilsner&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;wit&lt;/code&gt; needs more carbonation than more heavy styles like &lt;code&gt;stout&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;strong ale&lt;/code&gt;. Most recipes will usually give you a prescription, but in my opinion, these often underestimate the amount you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What i usually prefer is adding around 4.1 - 4.5 g/L (grams per liter) of table sugar for heavier ales, and around 5 g/L for lighter types. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, when adding sugar to the beer for carbonation, you should always sterilize it by dissolving the sugar in boiling water or similar. I would highly recommend going for the second bucket, and putting the sugar in the bucket before adding the beer, but if this is not possible, I would pour it into the fermentation bucket. Be very careful as to not stirring in too much oxygen when you do it, as this can really risk ruining your beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13277" LastEditorUserId="13277" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T12:38:22.903" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T12:38:22.903" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17098" CreationDate="2016-02-23T12:34:10.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are too close to the bottom you'll pick up more heat from the heat source itself (burner or element if electric) than as a measurement of the wort.  You want to be about 1/2 or a third of the way up from the bottom to somewhat get away from that effect.  The longer the probe is helps with that issue too, however too long of a probe will interfere with hops sacks or an immersion chiller if you use those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You definitely want to be just under that lowest rib on a keggle.  Mine is above it and it never worked well for 5 gallon batches.  I use that keggle now as a mash tun and I tend to use a higher water to grain ratio than most inorder to get it into the mash.  If you can get a metal worker to professionally flatten a small square of that first rib, then weld a coupling in at that spot I think that would be pretty ideal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T12:34:10.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17082" CreationDate="2016-02-23T17:12:28.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had white spots om my dark stout beer, as I am new to brewing I looked up on a lot of forums, it's just yeast spots not contamination. I sterilised a tea strainer and tried to catch the spots but they disappeared as I touched them. Like the other answers if it smells OK and not smell of off water then it should be OK.  Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13345" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T07:51:10.557" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T07:51:10.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17107" CreationDate="2016-02-23T18:06:27.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer: none.  Why? Because table sugar will impart off flavors and the granules are too big to dissolve in your beer.  At your LBS, you should be able to find priming sugar in 2 ounce bags.  This is the correct about to use with a 5 gallon (19 liter) batch.  Bring 2 cups of water to a boil and add the priming sugar and stir to dissolve.  Most folks add it to their bottling bucket and syphon the beer on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said that you don't have room for a bottling bucket?  The take up a circle about 12 inches in diameter and you attach your hose and bottling wand to the spigot at the bottom.  I think it might make your life easier if you found the room for a bottling bucket.  The way I did it when I was bottling was I would sanitize my bottles, and set them on the open door of my dishwasher, put the full bottling on the counter above it and fill the bottles.  For clean up, close the door of the dishwasher and push the go button.  Done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T18:06:27.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17098" CreationDate="2016-02-23T22:49:51.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another issue with temperature probe height; if you are using your kettle to heat your mash water, placing the probe too high will prevent you from doing thick mashes (where the volume of water to grain ratio is low) as the probe will be above the water line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you are brewing a mild, with a boil SG around 1.030 and you want a mash thickness of 1 qt / pound, you will only have 2.125 gallons of water for your mash. In my 8 gallon 13 1/2 inch diameter kettle, that's only about 3 1/2 inches, well below the probe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T22:49:51.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17107" CreationDate="2016-02-24T12:52:06.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beer priming calculator&lt;/a&gt;, you need about 110g of table sugar for 20l. Boil the sugar for 10mins with a 3:1 proportion of water (110g sugar, 330ml water. Gets rid of the oxygen and sterilizes the sugar).&#xA;You'll also need a 10ml syringe. You can get them at the drugstore.&#xA;Using the same calculator, you'll need 3.1g of sugar per pint bottle, so use the syringe to put 9.3ml of the solution into each bottle prior to bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13286" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T12:52:06.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-24T15:21:40.497" Score="3" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed an all grain stout 2 weeks ago, OG was 1.087 which was almost spot on for where I'd hoped.  However, I mis-calculated the pitch rate for my starter.  Racked to secondary to dry hop with mint (it's a chocolate mint stout) and I'm about 10-15 points higher than I need to be on it.  I made another starter yesterday that's on the stir plate ready to pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is should I try to aerate the starter somehow on the way in, i.e. over a strainer or will aeration raise potential for infection even more?  I'm currently sitting just under 7%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13348" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T17:31:07.703" Title="under pitched (1st) yeast-aerate into fermenter on 2nd (new) pitch or no?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|secondary-fermentation|pitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17117" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:31:07.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the starter was on the stir plate it is aerated already.  You will however, be introducing oxidized wort from the starter into the beer.  This could be an issue for flavor later on, but it being a big beer with rich flavors it might not be noticeable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T17:31:07.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13362" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:56:32.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you starting a brew or finishing one off?&#xA;Rule of thumb to keep handy when using any kind of enzyme in brewing; enzymes are proteins and proteins don’t mix well with bentonite or with sulfur dioxide. Always wait at least 12 hours, like your package directions dictate, between using sulfur dioxide and one of the other two products. In your particular situation, I would say that you could re-add some of the pectic enzyme, say, a half dose or so. All you’re doing is settling out pectins anyway and it should not harm the must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just so you’re aware, enzymatic activity can also be inhibited by high alcohol, low temperatures as well as high temperatures. Always try to avoid these situations but if you can’t, it’s generally alright to use a little more enzyme than you normally would to account for it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T13:27:31.347" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T13:27:31.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17045" CreationDate="2016-02-24T20:07:34.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;K1V-1116&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;S. cerevisiae • cerevisiae&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Selected by the ICV in Mont­pellier, France, among numerous killer strains isolated and studied by Pierre Barre at INRA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When fermented at low temperatures (16°C/61°F) with proper nutrition, it is a strong floral ester producer, especially in neutral or high-yield varieties.&#xA;Among the high ester production strains, Lalvin V1116 is the most tolerant of difficult fermentation conditions such as extreme temperatures, high alcohol (18% v/v) and low turbidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ferments well under stressed conditions and is useful in restarting stuck fermentations, especially when relative fructose levels remain high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;D 47&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;S. cerevisiae • cerevisiae&#xA;Enoferm ICV D47TM is an isolate from Suze-la-Rousse in the Côtes du Rhône in France. It was selected for the produc­tion of full-bodied, barrel-fermented Chardonnay and other white varietals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentations are characterized by a short lag phase followed by a regular fermentation. Will tolerate a fer­mentation temperature range of 15-20°C(59-68°F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a high polysaccharide producer and wines made with it are known for their accentuated fruit and great volume.&#xA;Excellent results are obtained for barrel-fermented Chardonnay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T20:07:34.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17061" CreationDate="2016-02-25T08:12:52.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That taste you are refering to is most likely fusel alcohol being produced as a byproduct of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various sources of yeast stress can cause fusel production during fermentation, but excessive must heat is by far the most common cause. Especially if your must temp is at or above 72F. I'd recommend trying a high heat tolerant yeast strain like &lt;strong&gt;EC 1118&lt;/strong&gt; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, fusel production with EC 1118 is nonexistent, and you'll end up with one of the cleanest tasting mead that you've ever tried. Try to keep your mead at or below 70F and remember you have to feed it properly for the yeast to preform the magic act it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's nasty and strong... pour it out and start again with a temperature controlled environment and a yeast that is more sturdy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T08:12:52.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17047" CreationDate="2016-02-25T17:13:45.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer smith or American Home brewer Association is a great place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13334" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T17:13:45.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17055" CreationDate="2016-02-26T20:39:40.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Methanol is formed when fermenting beverages high in pectins - eg grapes and berries. The methanol comes from the pectin, which mainly composed of methyl esters of galactose. When pectin breaks down, by enzymes introduced by micro organisms, or deliberately introduced, the methyl esters combine with water to produce methanol, so the aim should be to leave the pectin well alone if you can. Age clarify instead of pectic enzyme. Trying for an abv higher than 12% will also increase the risk of methanol being produced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various sources of yeast stress can cause fusel production during fermentation, but excessive must heat is by far the most common cause. Methanol may also be produced, especially if your must temp is above 72F. I'd recommend trying a high heat tolerant yeast strain like EC 1118.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, fusel production with EC 1118 is nonexistent, and you'll end up with one of the cleanest tasting meads that you've ever tried. Try to keep your mead at or below 70F and remember you have to feed it properly for the yeast to preform the magic act it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermaid K at the rate of 1 gram per gallon at must start, when rapid initial start slows, and every other day up untill the 1/3 sugar break is good for tradional style meads. Meads with fruit will have nitrogen etc. available to the yeast so 1/2 that rate will suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I airate my must at the start with a fish tank pump and airstone for 15-20 minutes. I do this once more after the initial slows down too. Musts with fruit should have the fruit cap punched down twice a day for 7 days, introducing as much oxygen into the must as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T20:39:40.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T13:03:01.937" Score="1" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Molasses for brewing and I have problems getting the fermentation to start. There are no brewing supplies where I live and I would like to know if anyone can tell me of a household product I could use to enhance the fermentation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DJ. Simms&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13359" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T19:32:38.920" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T13:17:50.920" Title="Brewing with Molasses" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17126" CreationDate="2016-02-27T13:05:49.600" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've moved the brew into a casket after the initial 4 days after seeing that the overall yeast had nearly stopped working. The cask is pressurized as expected from the CO2 (now @10 days). However I think I let the cask to cool down over a period of 4 days when I went off for a few days, so the FG is only just above the red on my hydrometer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Would putting the cask back into a warmer spot, start fermentation off again, with the residual yeast left in the beer? The reading before fermentation was 1.030 and is now showing 1.010, or just 2 notches above the red band, which If I'm right works out as a .020 difference making the alcohol level at 2.6%.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I see little to no change, can I restart the fermentation, or like said in an earlier thread, just sup it as a low alc brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13360" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T19:34:07.787" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T19:36:16.517" Title="First brew question" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17125" CreationDate="2016-02-27T14:55:49.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its possible that the yeast stalled due to temp.  Since you didn't tell us the temp,  its hard to advise.  I'd suggest keeping the temp at close to 70F.  check again after a couple days.  You may see a further drop.  But at this point it will be slower, if at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13361" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T14:55:49.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17125" CreationDate="2016-02-27T15:03:44.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those gravities are close to only a few styles Scottish 60, Scottish Light Ale. For example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.010 FG is good any lower and it will be dry or watery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the beer style and ingedients?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 days primary is pretty short. While it's normal for yeast to stop showing noticeable signs of fermentation in that time it usually does need a few more days to clean up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is now I would say taste it, it's probably as good as it's going to get as far as fermentation goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T15:03:44.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17128" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T15:48:53.690" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;My scoby has developed red flecks. There are only about 3 of them. Is it still ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the scoby is the normal whitish beige color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13362" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T22:48:09.553" Title="Is my kombucha scoby safe?" Tags="|kombucha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T17:46:29.683" Score="3" ViewCount="1681" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the hose clamps for the cooling spiral malfunctioned, so my cooled wort got contaminated by roughly 10 liters of tap water (in a 55 L batch). This is a lager beer which will be stored for five months before drinking, so ignoring the contamination is out of the question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wort is being re-boiled and re-hopped, but is there any consequences of re-boiling (apart from losing hop aroma)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13277" LastEditorUserId="13277" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T12:33:13.133" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T21:04:21.843" Title="My cooled wort got contaminated by tap water. What are the primary consequences of re-boiling?" Tags="|beer|boil|wort|contamination|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17132" CreationDate="2016-02-27T18:26:24.000" Score="5" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first lager (a German Pils) turned out quite good! From the keg, it's great, but the half dozen bottles I filled are completely flat!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a little more priming sugar per bottle than my usual amount for ales (which carbonate up well in around 10-14 days at room temp.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering, has the 3 weeks lagering flocculated so much yeast that there is not enough to get the priming sugar going?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if so, how does one compensate for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12823" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T00:22:18.597" Title="Does lagering reduce yeast so much that bottle carbonation is effected?" Tags="|yeast|carbonation|lager|priming|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17129" CreationDate="2016-02-27T20:17:11.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you know of and are dealing with the alpha acid issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tap water may impact flavor if it was chlorinated, regardless of boil time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reboiling or longer boiling helps with DMS removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would boil off the 10 liters to keep your gravities on point, or accept the dilution if you're only doing a short reboil for sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="863" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T04:12:49.250" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T04:12:49.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17130" CreationDate="2016-02-27T20:21:09.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually its fine.  There's plenty of yeast around for carbonate, but it will take longer.  You should still be bottle conditioning at 60-70F to get the carbonation to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you lager a beer for a real long time, say months, a dose of yeast may help.  One way to do this is to just rack some of the settled yeast along for the ride as you transfer the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also had good luck using a third of a packet of dried yeast.  I rehydrate in half a cup of boiled/cooled water first.  Add it along when racking to a bottling bucket.  I did this once with a Baltic Porter I lagered for 6 months and it came out nicely carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T20:21:09.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17130" CreationDate="2016-02-27T20:27:59.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible much of the yeast dropped out and thier wasn't enough in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally if you bottle condition you accept there will be a yeasty ounce of beer in the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said to help make sure your Lager bottles get a dose of yeast some of the secondary yeast should be transfered to the bottling bucket or stirred up when adding the priming sugar. Then your bottles are your fining stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternate solutions &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch a very small amount of dry yeast in each bottle (just a few grains of the media)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start kegging&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T20:27:59.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17129" CreationDate="2016-02-27T20:34:59.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reboiling will increase bitterness of all the hops that went in 'late' in the kettle.  Obviously, as you said you'll lose your aroma charge will decrease in proportion to the length of the reboil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may likely increase the maillard profile of the malt character depending on how long you boil.  The complexity of the original grist will dictate the extent of that impact on flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And depending on how much of the 10L you plan to boil off, your mineral content will certainly change as well.  Again, depends of the mineral profile of your base water as to the total effect on the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how long you plan to reboil you may expect to re-dissolve some protein into the beer.  (Some of the early Lambic and Belgian brewers would conduct really long boils that drove some portion of the protein in the hot break to break down further allowing it to no longer be break but be soluble peptides in the beer, changing the mouthfeel).  This again is base beer dependent along with length of boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T20:34:59.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T22:37:39.323" Score="2" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in creating my own starter cultures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found a few facilities which offer to create probiotic formulations, in exact amounts, by kg and density but I would rather start with a recommendation from someone with more insight on how this process works. Also, I'm looking for lesser known and very specific strains (e.g. Pediococcus, Propionibacterium, Weissella, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone advise me on the best way to proceed and if possible, the contact information of a fermentation facility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12410" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T18:28:41.773" Title="How would I go about creating a custom starter culture?" Tags="|fermentation|equipment|techniques|ingredients|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T23:12:16.573" Score="0" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a recipe that was supposed to have OG 1.062, FG 1.012 (ABV ~6.5%). I forgot to note the target volume in the recipe (just the pre-boil volume), and wound up with a wort with OG 1.077. I chose to not dilute it at the time, just to see what would happen, and primary fermentation is nearly complete with FG 1.020 (ABV ~7.5%). I got this from a single starter of WLP001 and about ten days of primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately I'm happy chalking this up as a lesson in note-taking, but I'd like the beer to be as similar as possible to what I've made before. Which options are the best, if any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dilute beer in secondary, to match OG; add enough water so that the OG &lt;em&gt;would have&lt;/em&gt; been 1.062.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dilute beer in secondary, to match FG; add enough water so that the FG will be 1.012. (due to the 40% reduction in gravity, this doesn't seem wise)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dilute beer in secondary, to match ABV; add enough water so that the ABV will be ~6.5%.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pitch another yeast starter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7878" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T09:16:27.990" Title="Proper target for dilution" Tags="|original-gravity|final-gravity|alcohol-content|dilution|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17129" CreationDate="2016-02-28T00:39:04.703" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Better to dump it than to take the chance of bad fermentation and contaminated beer..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13334" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T00:39:04.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17137" CreationDate="2016-02-28T00:54:55.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;add enough water so that the OG would have been 1.062&quot; and &quot;add enough water so that the ABV will be ~6.5%&quot; should be exactly the same amount of water. Check your calculation, if it's different then you have a problem, ie your yeast ate more or less sugar than you expected. Then, it's your call. You can either match OG and have beer you would have brew, or match ABV and have beer with strength you wanted. Both ways are OK and should be similar, if your recipe was right. Your call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matching FG makes no sense, here you are right. And pitching another starter? Why? 7.5% ABV would not kill most of yeast strains, so I wouldn't worry about unfinished fermentation much. And even if that's the case, you should first look at questions about stalled fermentation, second starter rarely is the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If in doubt&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use less water. You will always be able do add more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taste. It will not have carbonation, but you should get a good idea what's happening. If it's OK, it's OK. If it's not, ask about &lt;em&gt;particular&lt;/em&gt; problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try raising temperature a bit to restart fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T09:16:27.990" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T09:16:27.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17129" CreationDate="2016-02-28T06:50:26.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say it got contaminated you mean that some tap water went in contact (mixed) with your wort, right? I wouldn't say that is contamination. IMHO, contamination is that some bacteria has started to grow and eat the nutrients of your wort thus producing some compounds and off-flavours. In this case I wouldn't boil since these compounds are already in your wort and cannot be removed by boiling. Otherwise, I would boil and maybe add DME (dry malt extract) to compensate the gravity points you lose with tap water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13367" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T06:50:26.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17125" CreationDate="2016-02-28T15:25:44.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I re-read the instructions on the back of another sheet I'd overlooked. I had forgotten to add the 2.5oz of sugar to the cask to kick off the secondary fermentation. Doh! So I just added it and will see if the yeasties are still on the go :-) FYI I originally had the mixing barrel temp at 22oC or 72F. It's now back in my airing cubbard and I have it back at 70F. Smells great. It's a Woodfordes Norfolk Wherry Ale. I hope it tastes as good as it smells, after the fermentation is sone &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13360" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T15:25:44.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17144" CreationDate="2016-02-28T15:54:08.620" Score="4" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to brew a Kölsch soon with about 25 IBUs. I was planning on using Hallertau Hersbrucker for bittering. However, after I bought the hops I noticed they only have 2.3% alpha acid content. Using the calculator on Brewersfriend.com I calculated that I will have to use 100 grams at 60 minutes (~3.5 ounces I think) to achieve 25 IBUs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never added this much hops to anything but huge stouts and IPA's so I'm worried about the hops imparting undesirable flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;&#xA;Batch size: 25 liters&#xA;OG: 1.049&#xA;IBU: 25&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I use some other hop variety with higher AA content for bittering instead, or should I trust the calculator and use the Hallertau Hersbrucker hops?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12464" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T19:17:45.677" Title="Is using a large amount of low alpha hops for bittering a bad idea?" Tags="|hops|bitterness|bittering|alpha-acids|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17142" CreationDate="2016-02-28T19:17:45.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its possible that the added vegetal material will be an issue in a style as delicate as Kölsch.  But like you mention, I too have loaded up beers with more than twice your proposed amount and been OK (albeit not in a Kölsch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would worry me more is that 2.3% Alpha Acids is really on the low end for Hallertau.  I'd be worried about the quality of the hop in the first place. (I think I remember hearing that last year was a poor season in Germany for hop growers, but that's hear say I am not certain.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the alpha is that low then I'd expect too the other oils and character to be poor also. For future reference, I normally pass on hops like that and try and find a substitute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hops smell OK to you, or you don't mind &quot;learning the hard way&quot;. I'd say go for it.  I can't hurt to use a higher alpha magnum or warrior to bitter, then use those hops to create some noble hop character later in the boil.  At least that's how I've done it in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T19:17:45.677" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17125" CreationDate="2016-02-28T19:36:16.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warming it up may restart the ferment.  You may want to consider off gassing the cask a bit too.  The pressure build up will slow the yeast.  If you are going to add that priming sugar then you'll have to off gas at that time anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T19:36:16.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17146" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-28T20:58:44.123" Score="1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 1kg of Château Black Of Black malt. Bought it without really planning, because &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.castlemalting.com/CastleMaltingMaltSpecification.asp?Command=QualityParameters2&amp;amp;SpecificationID=215&amp;amp;CropYear=2015&amp;amp;Language=English&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;it's description&lt;/a&gt; was appealing. Particularly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the flavour and aroma typical of the traditional Black malt without intensifying the beer’s colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;amber-coloured beer with a more pronounced roasted character&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's what I wanted. I wanted &lt;strong&gt;red, scratchy, burnt and bitter-hoppy-sweet&lt;/strong&gt; session beer, and turns out I don't know how to do it. Season ends soon, so I ask you. What style / recipe would give this malt justice and meet my wants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about adding ~10% of it to pale ale malt. Directly to mash, as stepping extracts more colour than taste, and I want taste more. Mangrove Jack's M15 Imperial yeast with attenuation of 70 to 75%, with a bit of light crystal malt should give me some sweetness without caramel taste. But that's about as far as I got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T13:41:12.427" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T15:05:47.240" Title="What beer would showcase Castle Malting® Château Black Of Black?" Tags="|beer|all-grain|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17130" CreationDate="2016-02-29T00:22:18.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The beer should carbonate fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've personally had pilseners lager for four months and had no problems with carbonation. It usually takes a a few more weeks than ales, my four month lager took almost 6 weeks before it was properly carbonated. &#xA;My friend lagered a doppelbock for 6 months, bottled it without adding any yeast, left the bottles for a few months and it carbonated just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend that you give it some time and, as @brewchez said, keep the bottles at 60-70 F (15-21 C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12464" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T00:22:18.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-29T09:36:20.867" Score="4" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most methods, like increasing mash temperature, adding oat flakes, or using lactose, increase body even more than sweetness. Are there any methods to increase sweetness only, without affecting body?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to achieve bittersweet session beer, so cutting on hops is not an option. I would prefer to avoid artificial sweeteners, if possible. What are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T16:32:43.223" Title="How to increase sweetness without adding body?" Tags="|beer|recipe-formulation|sweetness|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17124" CreationDate="2016-02-29T13:17:50.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As 'Evil Zymurgist' says more details would help here, but... if you are brewing with pure Molasses then you will be lacking many nutrients required for a healthy/rapid fermentation. Acids such as citric, also you are likely lacking enough nitrogen/amino acids for a vigorous fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For acid you could add lemon or orange juice, regarding adding nitrogen to the mix you could boil up some raisins or apples and add the pulp to the mix. It will probably ferment to completion without these, but will be far happier with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple of pounds of Molasses, 1 mashed up apple or hand full of raisins, juice of an orange, made up to a gallon should ferment fine. Not sure how it will taste, but fermentation wise it should be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This reminds me of making a mead, but with Molasses rather than honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T13:17:50.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17148" CreationDate="2016-02-29T13:25:01.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a lower attenuating yeast would be my first suggestion; leaving more sugar for you to taste. What yeast are you currently brewing with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T13:25:01.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17148" CreationDate="2016-02-29T13:44:05.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've covered most the bases so without going into too much &quot;why&quot; here are some suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Why&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;The key to light body sweetness are simple sugars (monosaccharides) but these are the easiest for yeast to eat. Larger molecule, harder to ferment sugars impart a cloying body and a slick mouthfeel.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suggestions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Underattenuation&lt;/strong&gt;. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stop fermentation early. (many methods here, or google)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a low ABV tollerant yeast. &lt;em&gt;This may not be possible at session strength&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Natural Stevia rebaudiana (Bertoni)&lt;/strong&gt;. I'm seeing this more and more in commercial beer and ciders.  I'm eager to work with this 'new' ingredient. Stevia plants can be bought at home and garden stores. Or there are several processes sweeteners on the market using Stevia.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Parti-Gyle wort&lt;/strong&gt;. In my experience this second runnings wort is a very 'clean' not to be confused with 'thin'. Having less large protiens that build body. Depending on the mother mash this can be a very light body base for unfermentable adjuncts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T16:32:43.223" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T16:32:43.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17146" CreationDate="2016-02-29T14:55:13.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well for starters that is still a very dark malt 225L. It's  marketed to give more 'black' flavor with less color. But could easily go really dark if overdosed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Castle recommends up to 5% of grist for porters and stouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your color target is 'red' you need to keep in the 18-28 SRM area. This would be a very small addition of this malt 1% or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I did some quick calcs a grist 10% and base malt of 2row 1.054 og, would make a reddish beer. But going above the 5% may give it some unexpected flavors, not just 'more dark' flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T15:05:47.240" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T15:05:47.240" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17168" CreationDate="2016-02-29T15:44:18.137" Score="1" ViewCount="1543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a Wilko Pear cider kit. The method was to empty the can of juice into the FV and add 1.5kg of brewing sugar and enough water to bring it up to 23L. I started it off just under 3 weeks ago and it has just finished fermenting (I had some temperature issues that were solved with a brew belt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My cider has just about finished primary fermentation (I'm waiting to make sure the gravity remains constant). I gave it a taste and I was a little disappointed, as it tasted rather bland (like soda water and pear-drops).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the taste improve after secondary fermentation and clearing? If not, is it possible to improve the taste of the batch at this point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13373" LastEditorUserId="13373" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T19:16:53.450" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T21:07:01.107" Title="How representative is the taste of cider after primary fermentation?" Tags="|cider|first-time-brewer|primary-fermentation|taste|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17155" CreationDate="2016-02-29T16:33:40.687" Score="1" ViewCount="1157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was flipping through BrewDog's recently &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewdog.com/diydog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;released catalog&lt;/a&gt; of their recipes and there are a couple I'd like to have a go at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was originally going to ask how to convert some of the recipes to extract but then did some reading about the &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewmanual.com/brew-in-a-bag/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brew-in-a-bag&lt;/a&gt; method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So some quick questions with an example in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TuinV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TuinV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this recipe, the grain bill calls for Extra Pale - Maris Otter, Caramalt and Munich. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) For the BIAB method - Do I simply add all the grain to a bag, insert into my kettle and hold at 65c / 69c for an hour?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) Is it possible to use less water in the boil rather than the full volume? e.g Have ~17.5L boil and top up with cold water at the end?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastEditorUserId="6522" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T16:49:49.077" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T17:11:53.967" Title="Brew in a bag partial boil" Tags="|brewing|biab|partial-boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17154" CreationDate="2016-02-29T16:54:41.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you do simply put all grain (crushed!) in a bag. That's the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt; Brewdog's catalog calls for fly sparging, something you simply won't do. With fly sparging, your extraction efficiency can be about 80%. Yesterday I hit 95% &lt;em&gt;(again, against my plan, and I really hate it, but that's just btw)&lt;/em&gt;. Even 90% should be perfectly doable. Without sparge, best reported results I have seen was at 70%. Usually worse. This means you need &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/malt/item/1375-skip-the-sparge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;20-25 percent more grain than a standard recipe&lt;/a&gt;. If you will just use bag without adjusting grain bill, your beer would turn out weak, watery, and tasteless compared to original. For first try, &lt;strong&gt;keep some DME at hand&lt;/strong&gt;, to correct your wort if needed. Once you know your efficiency, you can calculate exact amount of grain to hit OG you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using less water for boil is possible, but &lt;strong&gt;don't do it&lt;/strong&gt; if you can avoid it. Full volume boil will allow you to extract hops just the way they did it. And that's the way if you want to brew a perfect clone. Less water can cause worse extraction of alpha acids. Also, it can promote maillard reactions - something you might want sometimes, but definitely does not look like planned in this recipe. Oh, and if you have to do a partial boil, top it with &lt;strong&gt;well boiled&lt;/strong&gt; water, not just cold tap one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T17:11:53.967" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T17:11:53.967" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17156" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-29T23:20:21.960" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T23:20:21.960" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T23:20:21.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17157" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-29T23:20:21.960" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for question about your own recipes, when you want to achieve particular effect but don't know how, or you need verification. Do not use for questions where recipe-scaling or clone-recipe fits better." OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T18:42:31.477" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T18:42:31.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17153" CreationDate="2016-03-01T00:02:19.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Congratulations on your first batch!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perry can have very subtle 'pear' flavor and still be to style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation will make a big difference in flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like everything went as planned for the kit, this is just how some of them are. Also one of the big reasons most homebrewers don't use kits after they know they like the craft and want to do more batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T00:02:19.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17153" CreationDate="2016-03-01T02:04:15.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with apple cider is that taste is better after six weeks in the bottle.  Sometimes longer depending on the batch.  Tannins mellow with age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thin sensation does not go away on it's own.  Echoing Evil Zymurgist carbonation reduces the thin sensation.  Adding acid blend or wine tannins or black tea also helps with apple.  I haven't tried with pear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to try additions do it in small measured amounts using a small sample of cider.  Then scale up for the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is your first batch so if you are going to add anything consider splitting it and bottle some without additions.  Then you have a couple experiments and can see which you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8399" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T02:04:15.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17129" CreationDate="2016-03-01T13:45:48.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless  your tap water is bad, I wouldn't call dilution &quot;contamination&quot;.  If this happened to me, I would do a small boil with DME or LME (just enough to get everybody dissolved), cool it down and dump it in.  If you don't want to do that, you can ferment it, bottle/keg it and send it to me.  I'll be more than happy to take care of it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously, relax.  It's just beer. Don't make it into some sort of rocket surgery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T13:45:48.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17171" CreationDate="2016-03-01T16:18:49.960" Score="3" ViewCount="1205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to brew an all grain 9.5% double IPA. I normally almost always boil for 60 minutes, but some research has indicated that for bigger beers like this, more water from the mash to start may allow for more good stuff from the grains to get into my wort.  Then a longer boil time to get down to desired 5 gallons. Is this accurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13348" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T00:00:17.413" Title="Longer boil time for high gravity?" Tags="|all-grain|water|mash-volume|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17164" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-01T17:48:20.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Krausening is a traditional German method for carbonating beers without using sugars or other adjuncts. Instead, actively fermenting malt wort is added to the fermented beer to provide the malted sugars needed for carbonation.&#xA;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2010/03/22/krausening-home-brewed-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beersmith.com/blog/2010/03/22/krausening-home-brewed-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6350" LastEditorUserId="6350" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T18:42:45.400" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T18:42:45.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17165" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-01T17:48:20.037" Score="0" Body=" A traditional method for carbonating beer" OwnerUserId="6350" LastEditorUserId="6350" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T13:57:58.097" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T13:57:58.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17163" CreationDate="2016-03-01T19:49:34.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really.  A longer sparge increases the likelihood of astringent grain flavors.  Yes the longer the sparge the more you get out of the mash, but there is a trade off between more and more of the converted sugar (efficiency) and the extraction of more than sugar in the form of astringent compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is true, that if you collected more water then yes you'll need to boil longer to get rid of the extra water to hit your target OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most maltier flavored beers come from using a bigger mash (more grain) and less sparging.  Its a sacrifice of efficiency for sure.  In general, I have found in my own brewing that doing a bigger mash with less sparge create richer flavored worts.  I have heard this talked about on podcasts and seen it in print in a handful of places too. (Which is why I tried it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, its best to plan a mash that gets you to your 9.5% target in a normal way.  Not trying to stretch a standard mash to get more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T19:49:34.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17129" CreationDate="2016-03-01T21:04:21.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say this is a lager, so I'm going to assume a high percentage of pilsner. In that case, I would not recommend re-boiling anything. Some extract brewers tap up from the faucet on every brew (I used to). If you re-heat the wort, you are going to create DMS, which will be a much bigger problem than any potential contamination from unboiled tap water, never mind the difficulty in retaining the desired flavor profile. You could potentially start the boil over, adding more water to account for a full boil (to allow the new DMS to be boiled off), but the hop utilization and maillard reactions will be different from intended. I think a safer alternative would be to rack to two vessels (to prevent the fermentation from overflowing) and just ferment as normal. You'll produce a thinner, less ABV beer than intended, but otherwise, should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T21:04:21.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17153" CreationDate="2016-03-01T21:07:01.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your taste might be improved by carbonation, that's true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, other issues won't change. It will not get richer. Sugar is an enemy of rich taste. It brings alcohol, but nothing more. For now, bottle, let it carbonate, or play with it. For future:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not add sugar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do add sugar, do not add &quot;brewing sugar&quot;. Like, never. Forget it. It's a mix of, well, no one knows unless it's on the label, and even then there usually are no proportions stated. &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/16154/12577&quot;&gt;Here is my look on sugars&lt;/a&gt; if you want details. If you have to, chose what you want and mix your own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use less water or more juice concentrate instead of sugar. Or replace some water with 100% apple juice from juice carton. Sure, it's not as good as fresh apples, but still better than sugary water. Of course, no preservatives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not &quot;bring to X liters / gallons&quot;. Natural apple juice has 10~11 Blg / 1.04~1.045 OG. Mix to get solution with original gravity within these borders. Hydrometers are really cheap. &lt;em&gt;Nothing wrong with having 23 liters, of course, but that's not what counts when it comes to taste&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, what you got seems to be pretty typical &quot;kit quality&quot; and won't improve much on it's own. Luckily, next time you can improve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T21:07:01.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17172" CreationDate="2016-03-01T21:39:32.053" Score="1" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being fairly new to used starters, I'm somewhat confused as to how much volume of water to boil when adding DME to create a starter.  For instance, if the Kalkulator I'm using says to start with 2 L of water and add 8 ounces of DME and boil for 10 to 15 minutes, I will only have approximately 1.5 L of water at the end of that process. Does that mean I need to add back in another half liter of sterilized water to get to my 2000 mL volume from the calculator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13348" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T00:08:20.053" Title="Starter wort volume = BEFORE or AFTER 10-15 minute boil" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17169" CreationDate="2016-03-01T21:46:29.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know your calculator. No one here knows unless you will link to it. So we cannot tell what it's developers had in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you want about &lt;strong&gt;1.040 OG / 10 Blg after&lt;/strong&gt; boil. If that means starting with 2 liters and boiling it to 1.5, do it. If this means starting with 3l and boiling down to 2? So be it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one you linked gives you post-boil volume (verified using Brewtarget). But that's not the point. The point is to know what you are doing and what you need - and that's certain volume and certain gravity when you add your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T22:12:51.340" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T22:12:51.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17163" CreationDate="2016-03-02T00:00:17.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of big beers get thier high OG from boiling off water since there is a limit to grain extraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example a Wee Heavy can require a 3-4 hour boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your recipe and make sure it doesn't rely on a long boil for the OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO you can't go wrong with a 90 minute boil just for DMS reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T00:00:17.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17169" CreationDate="2016-03-02T00:08:20.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, starter calculators are a post boil volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your boil off depends on what you're boiling in (surface area mainly) and how hot you boil it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a test to see how much your vessel and burner boils off in 15 min, then add that volume to your total starter volume for you wort boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I boil right in the flask and only get about 100-200ml boil off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T00:08:20.053" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-02T12:53:53.160" Score="1" ViewCount="912" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time home brew.  I followed instructions and pitched yeast into wort (which looked like mud) airated it a bit, placed in my basement with a cover over it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a bit of activity in the first 3 days, a tiny bit of clarity, but it would appear like the yeast has stopped?  No activity or movement in the carboy.  The vapour lock isnt bubbly or anything.  There is an inch of setiment at the bottom of the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is... since it was only active for 3 days, should i do something like pitch more yeast?   Shake it?  Or is it done fermentation?  How do brewers know?   Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T19:56:37.430" Title="Reactivate Yeast?" Tags="|yeast|pitch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17173" CreationDate="2016-03-02T13:58:19.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Fraklin commented, the best way to know is by measuring the specific gravity. This will tell you how much sugar is in the wort/beer, both before and after fermentation. When you are getting stable gravity readings over a couple/three days, then you the yeast is done.  If the gravity is still &quot;too high&quot;, then you know the yeast have stalled out, or the wort is particularly un-fermentable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 3-day fermentation is not unheard of, especially for moderate gravity ales fermented warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T13:58:19.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17173" CreationDate="2016-03-02T14:56:18.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreeing with Franklin.  Taking the specific gravity readings over 2-3 days is the best practice.  You could also pick up a refractometer to take gravity readings if you need to. I use one since I do 1-2 gallon batches frequently and only larger batches when I know the recipe is good. EDIT: As a note from a commenter, refractometers do not give direct readings in the presence of alcohol; you'll need at least a correction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, just because there isn't any more alcohol being produced or visible activity doesn't mean 'fermentation' is completely done.  Fermentation isn't just about making alcohol. I assume you've heard of some of the byproducts that yeast make while eating, pooping, and reproducing.  Some of them are not good BUT yeast love to take care of themselves so after the alcohol is made they will also clean up some of those nasty byproducts, cleaning up the flavor of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My novice suggestion would be to raise the ambient temperature of the fermentation chamber or just wrap it in a sweater or blanket.  Three days is usually when the frequent activity stops for a lot of my brews as well but I always let them sit at the least a week. It can't hurt!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13178" LastEditorUserId="13178" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T19:56:37.430" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T19:56:37.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17182" CreationDate="2016-03-02T15:41:40.180" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making the move from brewing all-grain kits to a &quot;full fledged&quot; recipe &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/710/prost-weizen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Weizen recipe&quot;&gt;Weizen&lt;/a&gt;. However, I'm having trouble with some of the details: namely quantities and sparging. &#xA;Some background: I've been doing small batches (4L) with fermentation on a demijohn. Only done 2 weiss so far. &#xA;For those 4L, the instructions I had ask for 3L of mash water and 4L for sparging (which I do by slowly pouring the water over the sieved grain). &#xA;I've found the following 5 gallon recipe which I was intending to follow and convert. &#xA;My conclusions so far were (please correct me if I'm wrong):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch size: 4L. &#xA;Boil size: 4.9L (amount of wort ready to be boiled). &#xA;Ratio from 5 gallon to 4L is 5.683 (22.73L to 4L), which I used for converting grain and hops' quantities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheat malt: 400g&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pale malt: 320g&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hops: 2.5g + 2.5g&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first question is, how much sparge water should I use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the method I've used so far is called partial boil since the (kit) recipe says to add remaining water to fermenter to make up for any loss. How easy it'll be to make it a full boil (as most people seem to consider it &quot;better&quot;). &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PoSol.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kit recipe&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewcraftbeer.co.uk/ekmps/shops/hoptoc/resources/Design/brew-craft-beer-how-to-brew.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brewcraftbeer.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, are my calculations correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the hops quantities will have to be adjusted according to the AAU of the hops I get? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13162" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-03-18T20:29:30.843" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T20:29:30.843" Title="Help needed with recipe translation" Tags="|first-time-brewer|small-batch|weiss|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4576" CreationDate="2016-03-02T20:28:01.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The harsh grassy flavor is definitely a rumor, and really doesn't make any sense, unless your ratio of bittering hops was WAY off from the get go, or maybe if you boiled the hops in a higher volume of water than necessary. This would produce an overly efficient batch of bitter hop tea and it would certainly overpower the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truth is I've made many successful brews with the hop tea method. Plenty of bitterness and aroma, plus you get the added bonus of saving some time if you decide to do late extract method (recommended). The secret is knowing the correct water volume to boil your hops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct process for utilizing hops in boiling water (5 gallon batch):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collect 2L of water in large pot. Begin boiling the bittering hops (45-60min), then adding in aroma hops (0-30min) as the recipie requires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the hops have completed the boil, turn off burner and pour in 2L of cold water into the pot, to drop the temp down to roughly 175f. Thus halting the bittering process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filter hops with large funnel/strainer into a large bowl or pot. Pour an additional 2L (in increments) of cold water onto the hops inside your funnel/strainer to remove any oils that may have been left behind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discard the hops and viola! Nice potent batch of hop extract. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pour into the wort and stir vigorously. Immediately after, begin chilling the wort to pitching temps to avoid any further bittering.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13383" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T20:28:01.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17181" CreationDate="2016-03-02T21:52:35.677" Score="4" ViewCount="2102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing an Epic Pale Ale clone with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wagonbrewing.co.nz/recipe-kits/clone-recipe-kits/epic-pale-ale-clone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this partial grain kit&lt;/a&gt;. The kit includes two un-hopped liquid malt extract cans. Sterilisation aside, I want some clarification as to whether you should boil un-hopped malt extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Randy Mosher's awesome &lt;em&gt;Radical Brewing&lt;/em&gt; book he seems to say you do boil it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're an extract brewer, somebody has done all this work for you, and this is where you take over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wort is transferred to a kettle and brought to a boil...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the Black Rock extract website, their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackrock.co.nz/the-process&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;process&lt;/a&gt; shows that they already boil when making the extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Beer and Wine Journal &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/five-tips-for-extract/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;says&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extract brewers should boil the largest volume of wort they can&#xA;manage, up to a full-wort boil. The more volume you boil, the less&#xA;color pick up you will get. In addition, the corresponding lower&#xA;specific gravity will increase your hop utilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but then in the very next paragraph:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewery grade malt extract has already been boiled. It does not need&#xA;to be boiled again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On here user &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/4578/13384&quot;&gt;jsled said&lt;/a&gt; (see also brewchez's commnent)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to boil the hops in the presence of wort sugars to isomerize the hop oils to get bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there seem to be two questions emerging here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you need to boil un-hopped malt extract? Why?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you need to boil hops in the wort? Why?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from jsled's comment about isomerization, all the other suggestions about boiling extract seem to be &amp;quot;boil it in as much water as possible&amp;quot; to get around the hop utilisation issues and colour pickup issues. If we get better hop utilisation boiling with lower SG, then the lowest of all will be... water. If we just don't boil the extract at all can't we simply avoid these concerns entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my two-cents, the best home-brew I ever made was a partial grain IPA where I didn't boil the extract and boiled the hop schedule separately in water. Even my sweet-mouthed malt-loving friends thought it was great. I'm sure Randy would approve as long as it tastes good, but I'm interested in understanding the chemistry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13384" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T14:36:10.143" Title="Do you need to boil un-hopped extract?" Tags="|hops|boil|extract|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17178" CreationDate="2016-03-02T22:13:41.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm aware, there are two kinds of extracts. One, described by your source as &quot;brewery grade&quot;, does not need to be boiled, because it was. Other kind does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/color/item/1101-making-malt-extract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Food grade plants often do not use brew kettles or whirlpool tanks and frequently run wort straight from the lauter tun to buffer tanks to feed the evaporator.&quot;&lt;/a&gt; - so sadly no, not all were boiled. Also, with homebrewing being bigger market each day, it's only a matter of time when unboiled extracts will be marketed as &quot;brewing&quot; ones and sold a bit cheaper than boiled ones. Lower price = more competitive. Unless some companies are doing this already? Hard to know. I know at least one manufacturer that omits this info on unhopped extracts and advises homebrewers to perform boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many ways to remove water from wort to create extract. It can be vacuum dried, freeze dried, dried using mixed methods. Probably more. That kinds of drying may fail to do two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot break will, naturally, not occur if drying process is not hot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Freezing (and freeze-drying) will preserve bacteria rather than kill it. Other processes without heating might neither preserve nor kill it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have this kind of extract, you definitely need to boil it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for hops, best utilization in lower gravity is only true to some extent. I can't recall exact chemistry, but in hopped wort hot break is much more visible. That's because some chemicals from hops react with polyphenols and protein from wort. Sure, you can get bitterness without these reaction. At the same time, your result will have different taste and aroma. You may perceive this difference as something positive, it depends on your taste, hop variety and kind of wort, but it will not taste in a way people would expect from given set of ingredients. Not really an issue if it's tasty for you and yours... Unless you are making a clone, or want to send it to a contest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T09:15:59.853" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T09:15:59.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17178" CreationDate="2016-03-02T22:20:03.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the best of my knowledge, you don't have to boil the extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually do boil the extract anyway. When making a partial recipe I am going to be mashing or steeping some of the grains, and making wort with the extract. I will usually measure off the water I want for the mash and while that's going I'll deal with the extract at more or less the same time. I want that wort to be hot when I combine them. Ideally the extract will boil right before the mash is done. Allowing me to mix them and bring it up to a boil for the hops quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T22:20:03.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17178" CreationDate="2016-03-03T01:24:14.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All brewing extracts were boiled wort and achieved a hot break at some point and have been reduced to the extract by a couple methods. Generally like you would thicken a sauce by simmering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said at packaging they should be sanitary. However there was a recall of extracts a couple months ago, that were infected and packages started to swell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DMS potential is low in extracts because of their pre-boils. So this aids to a shorter boil time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should always at least get the extract addition to a good sanitation temp like adding it to a boiling &quot;hop water&quot; like you said you did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1)&lt;/strong&gt; It doesn't seem necessary to boil an extract. Sanitation and hop alpha acid extraction aside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for me brewing is an event and I love the smell of the malt and hops doing their rolling boil dance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2)&lt;/strong&gt; I don't think what takes place in the boil concerning the commingling of wort and hops is fully understood, it's just the way it's been done with good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be an interesting experiment, doing a SMASH batch like you mentioned and conventionally to compare the effects of a separate hop boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="6160" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T17:30:42.723" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T17:30:42.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17176" CreationDate="2016-03-03T03:49:44.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a bunch of mash water:grain ratios, &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/your-first-all-grain-batch/starting-the-mash&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;but generally around 1.5:1 qt./lb&lt;/a&gt;. (that's about 1.5 litres per 500 grams).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The software BeerSmith recommends batch sparging your recipe with 4.1 and then 7.1 litres of water.  So (assuming you're batch sparging) the first sparge-water addition would be 4.1 litres, and the second 7.1 litres.  if you're continuously sparging, ideally you'd be close to finished after something like 4+7 =&gt; 11 litres of sparge water have passed through the grain bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really sparging is &quot;washing&quot; sugars from the grain.  You want to keep sparging until the wort coming off the grain bed has a specific gravity, say around 1.010 - that is, when nearly all sugars are collected.  Obviously you can't sparge all day, and you may not be able to boil that volume of liquid, so you stop at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is then boiled down to meet the correct gravity.  If something went wrong, your volume of boiled wort may not be the amount you expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, FWIW: if you really want a &quot;German Style&quot; weizen (hefeweissbier), the type of yeast is very important.  I suggest the &quot;Weihenstephan 3068&quot; yeast, available from both White Labs and Wyeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-10-09T22:36:01.303" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T22:36:01.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17148" CreationDate="2016-03-03T08:55:17.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try adding a little bit of salt. Not enough to make it noticeably salty, just enough to change the flavour slightly, it can be perceived as sweetness (it may vary from person to person so not a great option for competition brewing). You can try this with a glass of ready to drink beer so the effort is pretty minimal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13294" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T08:55:17.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-03T14:52:03.523" Score="0" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 5lb co2 tank ran out after 2 uses. The 1/6 keg didn't even get kicked. Do u i need to turn the shut off to off to stop flow of co2 so it doesn't run out? Or do I have a leak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13387" LastEditorUserId="13387" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T15:45:25.460" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T14:42:14.353" Title="Co2 shut-off valve" Tags="|hops|kegging|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17184" CreationDate="2016-03-03T17:26:14.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you had a small leak in your second keg.  When you've gotten your CO2 refilled, take everything and submerse it in water.  Watch for bubbles and tighten that connection.  Your most likely culprit is the seal on the keg.  Make sure that the O-rings are good and that they are lubed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T17:26:14.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17184" CreationDate="2016-03-03T17:29:31.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a leak. As long as your connections and lines and kegs are sealed up tight, you don't have to turn off the main valve because there's nowhere for the gas to go. You can spray Star San (or other bubbly liquid) on the various seals to check for leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having lost a 10 lb. tank of CO2 to a leak myself, I always turn off my main valve when I'm not serving beer. This helps me to identify leaks that I couldn't find otherwise (e.g. a leaky post O-ring) because the pressure in my regulator will drop as the gas leaks out. If I turn on the gas and hear a significant amount flowing into the kegs then I know I have a leak somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T17:29:31.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-03T20:48:04.873" Score="3" ViewCount="3454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting to be a fairly experienced brewer now but this is my first experiment with sours. I read about using lactobacillus from yoghurt so I thought I'd give it a bash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process so far... Simple all-grain mash, OG around 1.047. Sparged, raised to 80oC to pasteurise, then chilled to 30oC. Placed in a sanitised demijohn leaving the smallest possible air gap at the top. Just shy of 5 litres in total. Popped a bubble trap on then wrapped it with a heating belt to maintain 35oC. I cannot rule out the presence of oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pitched in a 65ml pot of Yakult live yoghurt that apparently contains 6.5 billion lactobacillus casei. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 12-18 hours there seemed to be gaseous fermentation going on - bubbles rising and a sort of small krausen formed. This puzzled me because I thought casei was homofermentative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't resist popping out the bubble trap and having a sniff of the fermentation. Oh dear... I wish I hadn't done that. I was expecting to smell the beginnings of souring... What I actually smelt was an affront to my nostrils... The sort of smell that makes you pull away. Fetid, perhaps slightly fecal, or dead vegetation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fermentation appeared to stop after around 30 hours but the smell is still unpleasant. The gravity is still way up near 1.047 so if fermentation as I understand it took place there wasn't much action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have risked tasting the product and there is definitely some sourness there, but it's hard to get past the smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now in day 3 and the demijohn is just sitting there looking completely inactive... So I sit and wait. It's around pH 3.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to boil the soured wort to drop the break out and kill the lacto, add some late addition hops, and then pitch saccharomyces as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess my questions are...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is that smell, and is it normal?&#xA;Will the smell disappear?&#xA;Will the boil get rid of the smell?&#xA;If I wasn't going to boil it would be smell disappear?&#xA;Why did it appear to ferment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks already for your help! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;/* EDIT */&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I boiled it today, about 3.5 days (80 hours) after first pitch the lactobacillus. There's a strong sourness on the palate but it's not lip-puckering. No bittering hops so it was just a quick 45 minutes boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nasty smell certainly mellowed but didn't disappear completely. It's no longer overpoweringly unpleasant but now just a funky 'note' of the aroma profile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steeped 30g First Gold whilst I was chilling it back into a different, sanitised demijohn. Pitched a stack of Nottingham dried for a nice quick fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;/* EDIT */&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK - fermentation over. FG dropped to 1.011 - ABV 4.3%. That hideous smell has mellowed a lot but not completely disappeared. It is still detectable but not unpleasant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottled a week ago but couldn't resist popping a bottle today. Obviously carbonation is poor but it's a lovely refreshing sharpness. On the whole, very pleased. I'll be trying this again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13388" LastEditorUserId="13388" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T20:33:50.740" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T01:00:03.993" Title="Why does my lactobacillus batch smell so bad?" Tags="|aroma|sour|lactobacillus|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17187" CreationDate="2016-03-04T02:37:44.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have others soured using Yakult? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell it's a specific strain of Lactobacillus (casei Shirota). Specifically designed as a probiotic to aid digestion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kinda makes sense it would smell septic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say boil it and see how it turns out. I've had many great beers where fermentation smelled terrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T22:18:28.980" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T22:18:28.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-04T05:12:23.057" Score="1" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time brewing a batch of beer. At the top of each bottle there is a tiny amount of little while floaty things. The rest is super clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to get a photo of the floaties, there's a big one in the center with a couple tiny ones to the left of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There doesn't appear to be a white film on top, more just a bunch of little white &quot;fibres&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every bottle looks like this so my big Q, can/should I drink it if it smells/tastes ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was made from this kit &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.muntonshomebrew.com/premium-pilsner/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.muntonshomebrew.com/premium-pilsner/&lt;/a&gt; with a handful of hops added in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jYZD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jYZD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sweet floaties&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13392" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T17:35:02.397" Title="White floaties at the top of each bottle" Tags="|beer|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17187" CreationDate="2016-03-04T12:47:28.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Addressing your homefermentative comment, how do you know this Yakult pitch is a single strain of microbes?  It could have some other strains to a smaller % and they are giving you your off smell.  There isn't much regulation in the purity of yogurt cultures.  Its more of a what is the largest population pitched to make the product.  It doesn't mean there aren't other microbes coming along for the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only answer is to let it go through your process and see what you get.  Its an experiment really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T12:47:28.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17184" CreationDate="2016-03-04T14:42:14.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common culprit is a bad oring on the keg or a worn ball / pin lock attachment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hear gas when rocking or turning a lock, it can't be trusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your regulator attached to the co2 tank with a crush gasket not an oring, these are a one time use and need replaced once the seat has been broken. Because they form into the micro imperfections of the tank and regulator and then retain the impressions causing leaks if reused. Crush types are either paper or hard plastic, they say the plastic can be reused but I've not had much success so I changed to nitril orings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T14:42:14.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17212" CreationDate="2016-03-04T14:47:07.427" Score="4" ViewCount="2191" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing a Juicy, All Grain Pale Ale and looking to get the look of a Trillium/Tired hands &quot;orange Juice looking&quot; ale, meaning the hazy, turbid, slightly murky look (see pic below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base will be Pilsner/MO.  Then I have CaraPils in the mash for some head retention, but what can I do for the look?  Also, have CaraRed in as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUJxA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUJxA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastEditorUserId="7921" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T13:48:29.990" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T14:38:06.050" Title="How to achieve an &quot;OJ looking&quot; Pale Ale (a la Trillium/Tired Hands)" Tags="|all-grain|recipe|pale|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17189" CreationDate="2016-03-04T14:56:18.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks fungal (mold) to me. Could be from poor bottle sanitation or too much head space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were these bottle conditioned? If so I could just be floculant yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever it is, it's unlikely to be harmful for consumption. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T14:56:18.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17192" CreationDate="2016-03-04T15:58:48.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you can do it with just that grain bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that look and mouth feel you need to use oats or a lot of wheat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a high mash temp for bigger protiens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Short boil to keep the proteins, avoid the hot break, basically a slow simmer just for hops and sanitation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow chill to allow more chill haze, avoid the cold break.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing this will make a DMS bomb with pils grain, I would replace it with a lower sulfer grain or use Pils DME but will have less hot break material. Kind of a catch 22.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind many of those juicy IPAs actually use fruit to get thier profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T15:58:48.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17189" CreationDate="2016-03-04T17:35:02.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like it could be live yeast still eating was your fermentation complete before you bottled if it was complete.then it could be a bad batch or the bottles may not been sanitized completely..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13334" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T17:35:02.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10428" CreationDate="2016-03-04T22:44:55.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't expect to see bubbles in the bottle. Without opening a glass bottle, I don't think you can tell if it is carbonated or not. The exception to this is if it explodes, of course. Then you know it's carbonated (far too much). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the bottle is under pressure, most of the produced CO2 remains dissolved into the liquid as it is produced, so you won't see bubbles rising to the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12431" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T22:44:55.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15968" CreationDate="2016-03-05T21:12:10.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure about the apples (seems weird to me to put apples in beer), but for the caramel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just finished some &lt;a href=&quot;http://meinsudhaus.de/bier-rezepte/obergaerige-biere/karamell-klosterbier/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;abbey style beer with caramel (recipe in German)&lt;/a&gt;. For that I heated 500g regular sugar in batches in a pan until it turned brown and caramelized, then added water, and added everything at the end (last 15 minutes) of the boil, so that it mixes well with the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result was a quite sweet and strong beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T21:12:10.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17128" CreationDate="2016-03-05T21:55:55.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, nothing short of a scoby being fuzzy, hairy, bright blue or green, smelling like a diaper pail or biting you is all ok! Mold is pretty much the only absolute no-no. If it isn't moldy and you are happy with the smell (should be slightly vinegary) just taste it. You'll know if it's ok or not by whether you spit it out or not :). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13401" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T21:55:55.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-06T04:13:18.927" Score="2" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished with my first brew and have collected the stuff left at the bottom of the primary in a well sanitized jar. 24 hours after in the refrigerator it has separated into two layers. One of them is a liquid on top and below it is a white residue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After checking multiple sites I am confused as some say that the yeast is in the liquid and others say that it is in the white stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone help me here. I really need to save yeast as it just isn't available here and I'll need to have someone coming back from the US to order new yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yHMap.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yHMap.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;After separation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a million.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13298" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T00:32:45.880" Title="Harvesting yeast" Tags="|reusing-yeast|trub|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17200" CreationDate="2016-03-06T06:40:42.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no doubt yeast cells throughout it, but if you're going to pitch from that, you should use the topmost white stuff below the liquid.  All of the slurry below the liquid should be fine, but you'll have a little more trub settled down at the bottom.  And since you'll only need to pitch a bit of this in the next batch (assuming you're not jumping up to a much larger batch), you might as well use the best stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you, I would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;store this in the fridge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on brew day, take it out and let it sit at room temperature for a few hours&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when you're ready to pitch, pour off the liquid off the top, and then pitch about a third (from the top) of what remains.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T06:40:42.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17200" CreationDate="2016-03-06T10:07:07.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are yeast cells in all volume. Very little of them in liquid, a lot in settled down layer. More on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only need to wait a week or so, just discard the liquid and pitch. If you need to wait longer, I would strongly suggest &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/7567/12577&quot;&gt;making a sterter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starter or not, I would suggest you to take jar out of the fridge day before use, swirl it to make content homogeneous, and put in fridge again. That way, when yeast cells will settle down again, you should see 3 layers. Liquid, bright live yeast, and darker dead yeast. If so, of course use only the middle layer. But if you can see only two, that's OK, too. Discard liquid and use what's left, take from the top how much you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T10:07:07.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="780" CreationDate="2016-03-06T13:25:49.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like Rich Armstrong said it above, the banana-flavor can also be just a phase. I came across the same thing while making my first imperial stout. And I wasn't alone with my taste: my friend also noticed this off-flavor even though I didn't even mention it myself. And he also said that was very clear banana-flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took time, but the flavor just vanished while in bottles. I believe it is combination of yeast-strains effects and high gravity beers' essential problems. Also it could be, that it has something to do with the carbonation process, because it appeared in my batch also after the bottling stage... maybe too much air in the process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my guesses, I hope you find them useful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13405" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T13:25:49.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17200" CreationDate="2016-03-06T16:20:12.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The healthiest yeast tends to settle last. The process you need to read up on is yeast 'washing'. Here's the quick method I use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's important to use sterile jars, flasks, water. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once your trub is well settled like in your pitcure, decant the liquid off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add sterile water to the jar and mix by shaking. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow to settle for just a few minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decant the remaining liquid to a new jar and refrigerate. This liquid will contain the healthiest washed yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This process can be repeated as much as you want to wash and harvest more yeast from the trub. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can then decant and combine the yeast for storage. I add a little nutrients at this point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T01:39:54.103" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T01:39:54.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-06T20:07:11.643" Score="0" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just plugged a brand new chest freezer into a brand new Johnson analog set at 34 degrees (lagering). The chest freezer power lights lit up and I thought everything was fine. Checked the next day and the lights were off. The power lights popped on here and there after unplugging/plugging back in and fiddling with the freezer's control knob. When I plug the freezer directly into the outlet, it works totally fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my Johnson control busted? Or does the freezer only kick in when the temperature raises above the Johnson's setting of 34?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems weird to me. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13406" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T12:24:43.100" Title="Chest freezer not working with Johnson analog control. Did I mess up or is the thing busted?" Tags="|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17205" CreationDate="2016-03-06T20:37:13.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Read the configurations instructions. Commonly over looked things are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mistakenly set to heating, not cooling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large temp variant. Should be set to 1-2 degrees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fahrenheit / Celsius toggle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set freezer to coldest setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temp prob placement. Best to be in a thermowell in the wort. Alternatively tapped to the middle section of the fermentor. The metal part of the prob shouldn't be touching the fridge wall, if going for an ambient temp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Didn't catch it was a analog controller. Only the prob placement and freezer setting applies.&#xA;The controller works by cutting all power to freezer once it is at or below the set temp. Lights off on the freezer is normal unless currently cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T20:42:33.620" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T20:42:33.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16524" CreationDate="2016-03-06T22:08:33.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might have inadvertently set up an unhealthy environment in your must. Certain store bought cider, puree, and juice products are processed using potassium sorbate to extend their shelf life by inhibiting the growth of certain molds, yeast and bacteria. Always look at the ingredients to be sure that isn't the case with what you are planning to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also known as &quot;wine stabilizer&quot;, potassium sorbate produces sorbic acid when added to wine. It serves two purposes. When active fermentation has ceased and the wine is racked for the final time after clearing, potassium sorbate will render any surviving yeast incapable of multiplying. Yeast living at that moment can continue fermenting any residual sugar into CO2 and alcohol, but when they die no new yeast will be present to cause future fermentation. When a wine is sweetened before bottling, potassium sorbate is used to prevent re-fermentation when used in conjunction with potassium metabisulfite(Campden tablets). It is primarily used with sweet wines, sparkling wines, and some hard ciders but may be added to table wines which exhibit difficulty in maintaining clarity after fining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some molds and yeasts are able to detoxify sorbates by decarboxylation, producing piperylene. The pentadiene manifests as a typical odor of kerosene or petroleum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T22:08:33.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-07T07:18:16.063" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cracking open the fermentation bucket on bottling day revealed some sponge-coral look-a-likes floating around on the top of the brew. I have never seen this an any beer before, and other beers, based on same recipe and using the same yeast, do not have this. It was in a room where the temperature has been stable between 19-21C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is a Pale Ale, fermented with a WLP001 (California Ale) vial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer smells and tastes a little bit off, like someone mixed some washing detergent into it...&#xA;Will the beer be alright to drink if left in the keg for some time or is it a lost cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T17:22:52.927" Title="Spongy, corally residues in fermentation bucket" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17222" CreationDate="2016-03-07T11:04:14.627" Score="3" ViewCount="1412" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, DMS is only created above 60°C, so fast cooling after boil is important. My times for 26 liters boil, with homemade immersion chiller (8mm copper pipe) are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 minutes to 55°C (20 liters of cold water used)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 minutes to 35°C (60 liters of cold water used total)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find any data to compare my results with. Is this good? Bad? What it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eo7tC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eo7tC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;reference photo&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T12:10:18.777" Title="What are good cooling times for immersion wort chiller?" Tags="|boil|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17205" CreationDate="2016-03-07T12:24:43.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The freezer will not run constantly.  It will cycle on when the temp rises above the set temp and more cooling is called for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T12:24:43.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17192" CreationDate="2016-03-07T12:45:51.223" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The prevailing wisdom on these so called &quot;east coast&quot; IPAs is three fold:  The use of ~10% of flaked oats in the grist. A combo of super huge late kettle additions as well as dry hopping.  Lastly, the use of London Ale III from Wyeast (Wyeast 1318).  Despite London Ale III being a great flocculating English Ale yeast, in the presence of huge amounts of hop oils, it just fails to flocculate out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have brewed a couple DIPAs attempting to emulate the style and the London Ale III seems to do the trick for sure. This is also being reported by a couple brewing buddies of mine doing the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pilsner and MO will be nice.  I used Pils and Golden promise 50/50.  The rest of the grist was 12% Oats and a touch of caramunich for color (6oz).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used 4oz of hops in the last 10 minutes of the boil and dry hopped with 6 oz of hops total at the end of primary.  Got a gravy like cloudiness.  With the right specialty grains you can get the brilliant orange color you pictures.  It doesn't take much coloring effort to get it to stand out because the haze makes it pretty dominant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T12:45:51.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17208" CreationDate="2016-03-07T14:50:35.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen Cali floculate like that, looked like a big brain / sponge thing that floated to the top in a blonde ale. Came out a little underattenuated. It was undisturbed and never broke up to fall back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In retrospect I should have tried to shake it up to get it to break up and fall back in, maybe get more attenuation out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're at final gravity now, I would leave it alone and continue as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the off flavor and phenol you're getting right now, I would still finish the fermentation process before troubleshooting the phenol. As a lot can still change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T17:22:52.927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T17:22:52.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17846" CreationDate="2016-03-07T15:40:08.737" Score="2" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I consider using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erythritol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;erythritol&lt;/a&gt; or other &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugar_alcohol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sugar alcohols&lt;/a&gt; in my &quot;girls' brew&quot;. Because girls demanded something really sweet and that's the simplest way to get it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I add it to the boil, will it count as alcohol against yeast alcohol tolerance? Would it hurt bottle conditioning if I add it at the same time I add priming sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T08:17:14.447" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T11:37:08.293" Title="Do sugar alcohols count against yeast alcohol tolerance?" Tags="|additives|sweetness|alcohol|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17209" CreationDate="2016-03-07T15:40:48.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are more advantages to a fast chill than just to stop DMS production. Cold break for chill haze reduction, immediate pitching, lower risk of infection to name a couple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as your times. Faster is always better. Best I've done is about 30 minutes to 20°c/68°f pitching temp. But that's using whirlpool and iced water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil to 100°F happens in the first 10min for me. Last bit is the hardest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Here's a Couple Tips&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Chill from top down&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (cold water into top coils)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ice&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; You can't chill below cooling water temp and ambient temps. Ice chill water helps a lot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Slow flow&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Ideally your exit water out of the chiller should be 'close'  to the temp of the wort any faster is just wasting water. How much flow you can achieve and be within 10-20% of wort temp, gauges your chiller effeciency.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Seal it&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; When you start to chill, cover your pot with lid and foil to prevent infection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Movement&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Whirlpool &amp;amp; pump is best. Alternatively you can move the chiller, up down side to side without breaching your foil seal to get more chiller contact with hot wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Inline Chiller&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; plate chiller or counterflow chillers are game changers. And can be used in conjunction with immersion chillers. When done right you get pitch temp wort out the end instantly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ice chiller example from Zymurgy Magazine.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5POng.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T16:05:36.640" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T16:05:36.640" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17214" CreationDate="2016-03-07T16:24:30.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to its name it's not an Alcohol or a Sugar... Wikipedia&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure they won't have any alcohol effect unless it matched a metabolism pathway of yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't appear to be fermentable. But may have adverse body mouthfeel effects, as it's used to thicken food stuffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are already proven brewing ingredients to get the effect you want. Lactos is unfermentable and used in many beers. I'm seeing Stevia in many commercial beers and ciders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T17:22:11.117" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T17:22:11.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-07T17:51:30.980" Score="2" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the site. Been making cider for a couple of years now and still don't feel like I have it down. My latest batch, a recipe I've made many times, is not clearing like it usually does. It got quite warm after I started it, so my question is what effect does external room temp have on the fermentation process? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13408" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T19:15:01.290" Title="What effect does room temp have on the cider fermentation process?" Tags="|fermentation|cider|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17217" CreationDate="2016-03-07T19:15:01.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually a warm fermentation 72°F+ will generate more yeast esters and fusel alcohols. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The warmer temp makes for rapid yeast growth phase and easy feeding phase. This added growth could be your clairity issue, just having more unfloculated yeast in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fusels will mellow with aging 4-8 weeks. Clairity should improve over time 1-3 months, or use a clairifier to accelerate it (gelitan can do it in a couple days). Esters mellow and blend with long 2-24 months aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T19:15:01.290" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17200" CreationDate="2016-03-07T23:37:16.353" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Decant the liquid, as it contains the healthiest purest mix of yeast cells. I'd mix it with sugar and yeast nutrient, shake to aerate it and leave sealed at room temperature for the yeast cells to multiply; for about a week or so. Then refrigerate till it's next needed. Adding a campden tablet will help prevent risk of other microbes ruining your culture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T23:37:16.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-07T23:42:07.557" Score="5" ViewCount="688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been given a container of Suma concentrated apple juice,the concentrate used to make apple juice from concentrate, left over from a camp. I've made cider from it in the past, using just tap water and youngs super wine yeast, and it tasted very empty. What can I add to it to give it plenty of body??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T12:50:56.883" Title="What ingredients contribute body to a cider?" Tags="|cider|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17220" CreationDate="2016-03-08T00:21:53.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Malted Cider&lt;/strong&gt; all the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically brew a light beer wort to same gravity of juice then blend the juice and wort 50/50, ferment with a clean ale yeast like California Ale yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the gist of it. Complete instructions are just a Google away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T00:21:53.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17209" CreationDate="2016-03-08T02:26:57.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard most people shooting for ten minutes of chill time to get below that 60C mark.  You're doing it better than that so that's cool (no pun intended).&#xA;If you can agitate the wort around the coils you'll go that much faster.  When I used an immersion chiller I used to pass my wort through a pump back into the kettle while chilling (recirculation immersion chiller set up, pretty popular).  I could get down to pitching temps in 20-30 minutes like you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T12:10:18.777" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T12:10:18.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17220" CreationDate="2016-03-08T09:46:50.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make graff, or malted cider, as was &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/17221/12577&quot;&gt;already answered&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your other options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steep light crystal malt in juice to get sugars from it. Many (most?) are non fermentable. Especially malts like Carapils® by Weyermann or Cara Clair by Castlemalting are developed to provide body, but not much else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Experiment with different kinds of apples, they provide different body.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Proper carbonation, not too weak, not too strong, will help as well. Find a level you like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use yeast with as low attenuation as possible, they'll leave more sweetness and body behind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T14:19:58.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2432" CreationDate="2016-03-08T17:19:30.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you should have peeled a grapefruit and thrown the peels is the last 5 minutes of your boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13411" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T17:19:30.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2432" CreationDate="2016-03-09T00:05:47.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just saw this popup in my feed, though you used grapefruit juice, might I suggest just using grapefruit rind soaked in vodka next time. I've done this successfully, it adds great aroma and just a hint of flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the instructions: &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.kegoutlet.com/how-to-prepare-and-add-grapefruit-to-an-ipa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Prepare and Add Grapefruit to Your Homebrew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6777" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T00:05:47.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17220" CreationDate="2016-03-09T12:50:56.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you really looking for body when you say the flavor was empty?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You may need a little acid blend in the final product to brighten the flavors.  Cider as a beverage is normally pretty low on body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time I'd try an English Ale yeast which will attenuate slightly less, leaving you some natural apple sweetness.  At packaging you can add in a little acid blend to taste in the bottling phase.  Acid blend is available at most homebrewing shops used to help round out the flavors of wines and meads.  You can also try a little tannin extract which you may be missing as well if the original apples were skinned prior to becoming juice and concentrated.  Tannins will help with the complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I make my Ciders I tend to boil a pound of DME in a half gallon of water and add that in with 3-4 gallons of the apple juice.  Using an Enlgish Ale strain and the small amount of leftover non-fermentables from the malt extract usually helps make the cider seem sweeter and more complex. The flavor still qualifies as a dry cider, but it will seem more apple forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T12:50:56.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17231" CreationDate="2016-03-09T12:57:17.810" Score="3" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed my first beer. It's called Cascadian subduction, but I think it means more about the process than it does anything else. My problem is that there's no head, but there are bubbles. Also, the taste seems way off. To my novice opinion, it seems it either needed to boil longer, or hotter. Does anyone have any ideas from what I described?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13288" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T14:59:07.213" Title="Bad taste, no head" Tags="|head|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-09T14:12:42.050" Score="3" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem. I've read BJCP description of Irish Red Ale, and many recipes and... they don't quite match. Some recipes use crystal malt. Some does not. Most use roasted barley. Some do not. Many use monachium malt. Many do not. And I feel lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about this grain bill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3kg Pale Ale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1kg monach 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;500g CaraRed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;150g roasted barley / black malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this honest to the style? And, if hopped and fermented properly, would it taste like one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By Brewtarget, it looks like OG, FG, ABV, IBU and color in EBC would be in style, but that's not the most important part. Would it be red? And would it taste properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T14:22:02.020" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T14:55:38.900" Title="Would this grain bill make &quot;true&quot; Irish Red Ale?" Tags="|all-grain|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17228" CreationDate="2016-03-09T14:55:38.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done the Morebeer Irish Red Ale kit. Was very simular to a couple commercial examples noted in bjcp 2015 . Here's the recipe for 5gal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10lb 2-Row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1lb Crystal 120L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8oz Abbey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8oz Caramunich&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2oz Black Roasted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2oz Special B&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1.5oz northern brewer 60min&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2oz Willamette 1min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WLP004 Irish Ale Yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T14:55:38.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11226" CreationDate="2016-03-09T17:28:22.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Current BJCP guidelines have Black IPA under Specialty IPA category. And it does have difference with American stout and porters defined:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Not as roasty burnt as American stouts and porters, and with less body and increased smoothness and drinkability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's official now. Basically &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/11227/12577&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; is still true, only more canonical source became available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T17:28:22.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17227" CreationDate="2016-03-10T12:31:55.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poor foaming issues is usually a function of how clean your glassware is.  Dishwashers often leave a residue behind that is not foam positive.  Rinse your glasses really well after washing with very hot water. Let a glass soak in hot water for 5 minutes in fact.  Then rinse with copious amounts of cool water, shake it out and pour your beer in.  (On a side note, if you cleaned and sanitized your bottles in the dishwasher then these cleaning issues won't be helped with &quot;beer clean&quot; glassware as I described.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have heading AND flavor issues then its likely fermentation and yeast related issues.  The issues around fermentation and yeast management are too numerous to distinctly pinpoint for your issue without more info or a more informed tasting profile.  But at least this should give you the proper direction for your own self-diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for any flavor issues, this is your first beer. Have no fear it will get better (and easier) if you stick with it.  First beer's usually suffer from cleaning and yeast/ferment issues.  I'd recommend a little more patience and if you can stand it, brew the same beer for your second or third batch to track your progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T12:31:55.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17233" CreationDate="2016-03-10T12:47:57.447" Score="3" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any situations when this would be needed, or make any sense? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steeping base malts usually makes no sense at all, and changes to taste made by steeping black malt or roasted barley instead of mashing it are obvious. But what about crystal / cara? Always just dump it to my mash tun? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T18:11:57.603" Title="Steep caramel malt in all grain brew?" Tags="|all-grain|recipe-formulation|steeping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17232" CreationDate="2016-03-10T13:53:00.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically any roasted malt have little to no enzymes from the heat in processing the malt and have already had thier sugars converted internally from enzymes. Mashing them does nothing special for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So steeping crystal, carmel, roasted, carapils and carafoam can give the same results as adding them to the mash.  Possibly even better results given the added control you have in steeping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want to steep a base malt as they need to have a thier sugars converted in a mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically it's just easier to put everything in the mash. But steeping gives you more control. &lt;em&gt;For example steeping really dark grains to prevent them from dropping your mash ph too much.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most maltsters have great datasheets and faqs for thier individual products for those wanting more detailed information on specific grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T13:58:12.480" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T13:58:12.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17227" CreationDate="2016-03-10T14:40:41.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Congratulations on your first brew!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Cascadian Dark Ale (CDA) is generally a Black IPA. The style should have a well formed persistent head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No Head&lt;/strong&gt; The causes of no head are numerous. Most often &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the proteins are present to foam, low carbonation is to blame. A fresh rinse on a clean glass as brewchez mentioned will help with head retention but won't prevent some head from forming on a quick pour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Douple and Tripple CDAs can be very high ABV. The higher alcohol retards head forming and retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bad Taste&lt;/strong&gt; CDA really doesn't have an upper limit to IBU though 90 is in the bjcp vitals.  Big hoppy beers can mask off flavors for a long time until hop aroma fades. Identifying a subtle flaw early can difficult. Since you identify a bad taste, it could be infection or just a really funky hop profile. It's really hard to diagnose here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Homebrew communtiy&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Nothing replaces handing a bottle to someone with more experience and asking them &quot;WTF is wrong with this beer?&quot; &#xA;Are you in a homebrew club? Know other homebrewers? Give them a taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T14:59:07.213" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T14:59:07.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17232" CreationDate="2016-03-10T18:11:57.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on what you're trying to do.  &lt;strong&gt;All grain varieties that do not need a mash step to help convert them can be steeped.&lt;/strong&gt;  I have steeped many a variety to make different beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had two recipes that were very close in gravity and use the same base malt, I have made enough base malt wort to cover both brews, then split the wort and steeped the specialty grains to make two different beers.  A stout and an English IPA for example using Maris Otter as the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way I am using steeping to make two beers, saving time on doing only one mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T18:11:57.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-10T23:32:03.347" Score="0" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Wyeast smack pack of Lambic blend in my fridge that I bought a month ago before I understood the complexity of brewing a Lambic. I had it next to some beers that I have really enjoyed previously (L'infusée by Brasserie du Monde, and an Imperial pale ale homebrew) and when I opened them both were not as good as they had been. I'm wondering whether having the Lambic pack in with them for a long period could have affected the flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13418" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T13:38:52.543" Title="Lambic blend affecting beer in fridge?" Tags="|off-flavor|storage|lambics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-11T06:41:49.270" Score="0" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just noticed that my airlock opened up within the past day and I was wondering if it is ok to bottle still today?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been fermenting for past 2 weeks which is supposed to be enough but I am not sure if oxygen has ruined it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T18:29:29.827" Title="Oxygen in beer due to airlock" Tags="|beer|airlock|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-11T09:53:24.350" Score="3" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just purchased a 20 litre braumeister and have done two batches with it so far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to the braumeister I used a 3 vessel RIMS. After fermentation had completed I'd transfer it to a secondary, cold crash, then filter it. The result was reasonably clear beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two batches so far with the braumeister have used the same steps. I even added gelatin into the secondary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resulting beer has been the cloudiest I've ever seen. It's not chill haze because it's cloudy at any temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm lost for a solution. Any advice would be appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13416" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T14:08:36.630" Title="Hazy beer with new braumeister" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17237" CreationDate="2016-03-11T11:39:13.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well its likely fine.  You may have some oxidation, but its not worth dumping the batch over at this point.  Just learn from it and move on.  Bottle your beer as normal and see what you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be monitoring the gravity and not relying on time to decide when to bottle.  It should in a normal range for finished beer.  If this was from a kit there's usually a suggested final gravity range somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, you should also rely on taste.  If you wonder if something may have gone wrong with a beer you don't really know until you taste it.  Taking a sample for graivity readings also serves to give you a chance to taste the progress.  In time, you'll learn to predict how the taste related to issues that may come up later... like oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T11:39:13.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17236" CreationDate="2016-03-11T15:49:09.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Doubtful&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is remotely possible for yeast packs to have microbes on the outside of packaging from contamination at packing time.  I don't see it contaminating unopened beers though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely the beer has just aged and changed in flavor as all beers do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T07:48:17.840" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T07:48:17.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17237" CreationDate="2016-03-11T16:06:46.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you mean it &quot;opened up&quot;? Airlocks have to be open at both ends to work. Do you mean you somehow lost enough liquid that it's open all the way through? If so, you should be OK as long as you re-fill the airlock. CO2 is heavier than air, so there should be a &quot;blanket&quot; of it over your beer, which will minimize the chance of oxidation. If you caught it within a day or two, there's a very good chance there's no damage at all. I'd be more worried about what happened to the airlock -- where did the liquid go? If the temperature dropped enough that it got sucked into the beer, that indicates some fairly wide temperature swings that may have caused your fermentation to stall out. Be sure to check your final gravity before you bottle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T16:06:46.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17237" CreationDate="2016-03-11T18:29:29.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I presume you mean water evaporated out of the airlock or the rubber stopper detached enough to let air in contact.  Either way, as long as you haven't disturbed the fermenter and the room doesn't have a lot of moving air, you're fine.  C02 is more dense than regular air so it tends to stay in place.  Even if the C02 is gone, it's probably going to be fine unless you shook the thing up with the airlock open. Even then, it's probably still drinkable. Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12398" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T18:29:29.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17238" CreationDate="2016-03-12T12:09:14.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without being able to taste the beer myself it seems like your problem is the hot and cold break.  You simple are not coagulating the proteins well enough.  The added oats in this new recipe has increased the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be sure this is what I'd try run the same recipe again but stop the process after mashing.  Run of into a new pot and boil it separately (or only a portion), achieve a great boil and a good chill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully that will knock down your haziness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T12:09:14.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17238" CreationDate="2016-03-12T14:07:20.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nice brew system Gratz&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I have no doubt you're reaching good hot break temperatures. Since your system is electrical heat with temp control with a vented hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water to Grain Ratio&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;If I had to guess I'd say your mash water grain ratio was really thick less than 1.25 quarts per pound. A thick mash will extract more proteins making it more cloudy. The flaked oats have big proteins that extract easily in almost any mash situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can also help is removing the hot break foam before it falls back in. I use a flat fryer screen, to extract the break or push back in as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T14:07:20.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2016-03-12T18:54:28.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just be careful with using the Blow-off hose thru the airlock as you might get a clog from the hop stuff in the Krausen.  Just saying...  I thought it was funny when the airlock blew off the carboy the first time I tried this method.  The simple fix was to cut the end off the airlock, to free up some space and eliminate those four little holes at the bottom that I call cloggers...  One snip, reattach the hose, worked like a charm...Use it for a couple days, replace it with a butler after that...  no worries.  And yes, watching that blow off hose work is really cool as all he77.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13422" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T18:54:28.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-12T20:51:35.623" Score="1" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fortunately the ginger is pretty finely ground. Should I just leave it in there indefinitely as I cycle through new batches and hope it disintegrates? It doesn't seem like filtering will work very well without losing the majority of the ginger beer plant grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13423" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T12:31:47.587" Title="Accidentally mixed ginger in with ginger beer plant grains--how can I fix this?" Tags="|ginger-beer|grain|mistakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17248" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-13T14:12:36.147" Score="2" ViewCount="797" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 3 weeks ago I brewed my very first beer, a simple lager. I checked on the beer after 1 week of fermentation and now again after a bit over 3 weeks. At both times the density of the beer didn't really change. I think that no fermentation took place but I am not sure how to tell. Here is a photo of the beer &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jhANr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jhANr.jpg&lt;/a&gt;, is this green edge above the beer normal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used about 7g of dry Safbrew T-58 yeast for roughly 5l and I still have about 6g left. The temperature of the room is about 15-19 degrees and it's quite dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I still activate the yeast or should I add some yeast? Is there any way to save the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13426" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T08:02:37.133" Title="No fermentation after 3 weeks" Tags="|fermentation|beer|yeast|lager|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17248" CreationDate="2016-03-13T15:45:33.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gratz on your first brew!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the picture. It appears that it hit high krauesen and left behind hop material. (green stuff)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Re-check gravities&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Confirm your OG and FG for accuracy. Temperature of the beer is important, check you hydrometer instructions for temp adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If it's underattenuated so far.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Swirl the yeast up a little and, Let it warm up to 70°F. If it gets active again you can then slowly start largering it for a couple more weeks. Or add fresh yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: It is remotely possible the green could be algae. I've seen it happen. But unlikely at lager temps without light. If you swab it and smear on a white paper you can tell if it's hops or algae. Algae will smell musty, hops like hops. Algae will smear like paint, hops you will see small leaf flakes with a magnifying glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T15:45:33.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17252" CreationDate="2016-03-13T21:57:41.083" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just saw a YouTube video where since guy puts the mashing tun - a pot in this case - in the oven to help with heat loss. &#xA;I believe he didn't heat it, but world heating the oven to around mash temperature would help? Is this a common technique for small batch brewing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13162" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T10:52:29.267" Title="Mashing vessel inside oven to avoid heat loss" Tags="|mashing|small-batch|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17251" CreationDate="2016-03-13T22:32:58.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not, unless you set up a custom temp control for the oven. Most ovens start at 200°F which is much higher than any mash temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting in a warm oven with it off could be done easily with a manual thermometer. Just turn it off when it gets to mash temp and it should hold the heat nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T22:32:58.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17251" CreationDate="2016-03-14T01:47:09.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's a good idea.  My oven starts out at 170 F.  You can get it up to 170, turn it off for a while, open and close the door, and it'll be about the right temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to use my oven somewhat when I used a pot for a mash tun, but I use plastic now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T01:47:09.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17255" CreationDate="2016-03-14T09:43:53.360" Score="3" ViewCount="900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed beer for the first time two days ago using Brooklyn Brewshop kit using their &lt;a href=&quot;http://brooklynbrewshop.com/directions/Brooklyn_Brew_Shop_Oatmeal_Stout_Instructions_.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oatmeal Stout&lt;/a&gt; recipe. Now I am at stage 4 &quot;Fermentation&quot; but I don't observe a vigorous bubbling, just a bubble every now and then. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also observe some foam (or mould, I am not sure) on the superior part of the glass fermenter and the rubber tube but from what I have read &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/16343/mold-growing-on-blow-off-tube-water-batch-ruined&quot;&gt;in this post&lt;/a&gt; it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13413" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T02:50:25.693" Title="My beer is at the fermenting stage but it is not vigorously bubbling" Tags="|fermentation|beer|primary-fermentation|stout|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17254" CreationDate="2016-03-14T11:59:34.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gratz on your 1st brew!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything sounds normal. &#xA;You won't see fizzy beer or champaign bubble trails. Slow bubbles and churning &quot;chunks&quot; is normal. The airlock can be quite active then eventually slowing to a stop as fermentation ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The foam is krausen; protiens, hops and yeast that come to the top but eventually fall back in or make floating chunks. The top of the fermentor can look really nasty but is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T12:02:09.467" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T12:02:09.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17260" CreationDate="2016-03-14T13:35:54.547" Score="1" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made hard cider this way: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G25FFvCpNoQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G25FFvCpNoQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;except I also added cranberries, a couple tablespoons of sugar, and cinnamon. I was wondering after how long it will be done and if, when, and how I should bottle it. Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T17:01:58.150" Title="How to bottle Hard Cider" Tags="|bottling|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7933" CreationDate="2016-03-14T13:39:56.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be testing daily with hydrometer for gravity drops and tasting for beer flavors.&#xA;racking to secondary will not cause a problem at this stage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13432" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T13:39:56.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="145" CreationDate="2016-03-14T15:43:06.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the &lt;a href=&quot;http://brooklynbrewshop.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brooklyn Brew Shop&lt;/a&gt; kit from the BrewDog shop in London (BottleDog King's Cross). It costs £40, and it includes the main material (you will only need a stockpot, strainer, funnel and bottles but that should be easy). It comes with ingredients for the first brew and the material is reusable. The fermenter is 1 gallon, so it doesn't take much space and it is good for beginners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13413" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T15:43:06.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17257" CreationDate="2016-03-14T17:01:58.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you did everything as done in the video. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplest way to carbonate is to just put the cap on the bottle once the bubbling has slowed and the balloon shrinks. When the plastic bottle gets hard or starts to swell release some pressure. You can the refrigerate and serve from the bottle, taking care when serving not to disturb the yeast on the bottom. I wouldn't recommend this way unless you can check on it every few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can let fermentation complete and let yeast settle, then transfer to a clean bottle, add 3/4 oz corn sugar and seal bottle, leave to ferment again making carbonation (7-14days). Chill and serve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T17:01:58.150" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17264" CreationDate="2016-03-14T17:33:22.777" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to the homebrewing world. In this moment I have just brewed using prepared kits (I use Brooklyn Brew Shop kits). However, I am considering trying new recipes and therefore buying the ingredients separately. As many of them come in larger quantities that I need, I was wondering&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the optimal ways to store them? (for all of them: malt, hops and yeast).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For how long will they last?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or otherwise, do you know any online shop (I live in the UK) that allows me to buy just the amount I need for my batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13413" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T02:52:45.540" Title="What are the guidelines to store beer ingredients?" Tags="|beer|ingredients|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T18:00:55.790" Score="2" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about making a rye/raspberries mixed beer in a 3:1 d water (basified with Mg(OH)2 to PH 6.5)/glucose ~0.1% some flower smoke (not sure what flower yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What yeast should I use to get a even more powerful nut/flower/fruit taste from this mixture and get a ~7% alcool percentage?&#xA;Also what flower should I burn? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea is to mix ~200g powdered rye in basified water and cook at 80ºC for 1h, (at room temperature) add ~30% raspberries until it forms a homogeneous solution (keeping PH), add the yeast then let the smoke sit above the liquid as soon as the fermentation ends, filter it, add agar-agar and finally filter again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13433" LastEditorDisplayName="user8292" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T16:14:32.520" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T16:14:32.520" Title="Yeast and flower for raspberries and rye beer" Tags="|beer|fruit|rye|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17261" CreationDate="2016-03-14T19:25:14.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;DME should be kept in air tight food grade container. It has a long storage life. I buy 50 lB sack and split it with 3 other brewers We use this for yeast starters and to bump up the gravity in our all grain brews LME should be kept in cold storage after opening and should be used up quickly. We buy grain in 50 55 lb sacks and store in large dog food storage containers Specialty grains are stored in air tight food storage containers. We keep our hops in the freezer in air tight bags. we use around 6 to 8 oz when we brew. we buy from hop farms in 1 lb size.we try to reuse our yeast slurry 2 to 3 times. we are experimenting with freezing out yeast  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13432" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T19:25:14.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17262" CreationDate="2016-03-14T21:30:53.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the fruity and florals from London Ale yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds fun. Let us know how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curious though. Why not just use rye grain and then add the smoke infused berry solution in secondary? Or smoke the grains with the flower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T21:30:53.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17236" CreationDate="2016-03-15T04:54:54.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beers do not easily get infected from the outside. The only times I can confirm infection from the outside is corked beers where the cork shrunk due to old age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imperial Pale Ale sounds like a hoppy beer. Chances are the hops just fell out due to age. I think the flavours of the other beer also dropped out due to age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T04:54:54.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="337" CreationDate="2016-03-15T12:16:40.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were buying LME from a Home Brew Supply in 33 lb containers.We saved the containers and use them for DME it holds 16 lb has a 2&quot; opening, we fill with a funnel easy to pour out into container on scale works great&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13432" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T12:16:40.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17269" CreationDate="2016-03-15T15:41:51.163" Score="8" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I crafted an Oatmeal Stout (using a Brooklyn Brew Shop kit) last weekend and the recipe instructions were to add 2/3 of the Golding Hops pack at the beginning of the boiling and the remaining 1/3 15 minutes before the end of the boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of adding the same kind of hop at different stages of the boiling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13413" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T13:55:44.093" Title="Why are hops added at different times during boiling?" Tags="|beer|hops|boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17268" CreationDate="2016-03-15T16:18:09.820" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alpha acids, pleasant bitterness you want in your beer, are in inactive form in hops. They need to be isomerized to taste the way it should. This takes time and temperature, around an hour of boil to convert all of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aromatic components of hops needs only to be washed out. But they degenerate and evaporate with boil, so the shorter you keep them hot, the more you will get. Ultimate is dry hopping, with no time hot at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some components that brings taste needs to be boiled out of hops. This takes from 10 to 30 minutes - after that time, they begin to degenerate and evaporate, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why there are three traditional times to add hops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60' - bitterness, but almost no taste or aroma&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30' to 10' - taste, low to moderate contribution to bitterness and aroma&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10' to 0' - aroma, low contribution to taste, almost no bitterness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T23:54:16.657" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T23:54:16.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-15T18:31:32.197" Score="3" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was making kvass, and have decided to make it a little more alcoholic. I made it using the following recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slightly burn 3 pieces of toast, add to boiled water, and 1.5 handfulls of raisins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wait 8 hours&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;add active dry yeast, .5 cups regular sugar, .5 cups brown sugar. Mix everything. Put in new bottle and use baloon as airlock. It has been in airlock since yesterday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm kind of surprised that the baloon isn't filled up a little more. Also, how long should I keep it in this stage? How and how long should I bottle it?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqHnk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqHnk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13419" LastEditorUserId="2295" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T18:39:18.843" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T01:38:52.677" Title="Stuck Kvass fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|carbonation|airlock|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-15T23:36:50.750" Score="2" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a bit of research into different options of yeast storage and so far the least time consuming and most accessible methods seem to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Making a slant from a yeast sample taken directly from a freshly opened liquid yeast packet.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Taking a small quantity (about 5 mL) from a freshly open liquid yeast packet and storing it in a tightly capped test tube under distilled and deoxygenated water.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Taking a small quantity (about 5 mL) from a freshly open liquid yeast packet and storing it in a tightly capped test tube under 1.030 SG wort + yeast nutrient.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Making a starter with the liquid yeast packet and saving 10 mL of the yeast slurry in a tightly capped test tube.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above methods will be done under sterile conditions and stored in the refrigerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one will work best for storing yeast for 4 months or so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13436" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T10:53:53.267" Title="What's the best method of storing yeast for 4 to 6 months in the refrigerator?" Tags="|yeast|techniques|yeast-starters|reusing-yeast|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17270" CreationDate="2016-03-15T23:46:02.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can take 24-48 hours if the yeast was old. If there is isn't much activity at 48 hours I would aerate and pitch more fresh yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using dry yeast it's a good idea to proof the yeast as you would in baking first. Even if it's not expired, you never know the storage conditions from the vendor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When fermentation is done you can transfer to a fresh clean bottle, add 3/4 oz corn sugar (if this is a 1 gallon batch) and cap bottle. Allow 7-14 days to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your recipe doesn't have much yeast nutrients this could be making hard for the yeast, also check the raisins for preservatives their may be a yeast inhibitor on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T23:51:05.037" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T23:51:05.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1446" CreationDate="2016-03-16T00:07:12.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ginger beer fermenting in 6-liter water bottles with simple baggie airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hEFll.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hEFll.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13437" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T00:07:12.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17271" CreationDate="2016-03-16T00:11:48.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Just do it&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing you described is needed or beneficial with modern liquid yeast packages. For example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_advantage.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Weast's Activator&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Activator™ package was designed with superior UV light- and oxygen-barrier material to extend shelf life, making our 6 month from manufacture date Product Warranty possible. Yeast slowly depletes energy reserves while in storage. The nutrient pouch inside the Activator™ helps the stored yeast recover from dormancy and restores vitality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 6 months guaranteed shelf life, you just need to buy them fresh, and store. That's all. Other manufacturers may not include nutrient pouch, so starter would be advised if they don't, but shelf life can be similar. Dark, airtight container will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Make starter after storage period, not before&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fresh commercial liquid yeast packet will have more live cells per ml than your starter. Unless you are experienced microbiologist with good hardware base - but if you were anywhere near that level, you wouldn't need to ask this question. So if you want to spend time making starters, do it just before you brew. Starter before storage may only hurt, starter after storage, or second step to your starter if you already planned it, will help. Much better use of your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Tightly capped tubes may be a bad idea&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast are alive. They breathe, increasing pressure. Don't know what your tubes are made of, but if they are glass, do not seal them. Not even deoxygenated water one - you don't know how to completely get rid of nutrient manufacturer provided, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Your conditions are not sterile&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a starter, you need a lot of air. If you can afford air filters good enough to give you sterile air in sufficient quantity, you probably don't need to care about splitting  packages or anything like that anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;To reuse yeast, use slurry from previous brew&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Big beers can spend a month or two in fermentation tank. After that, you can collect yeast slurry, and keep it in storage for 2 weeks with no need for starter, and up to 2 months if you know how to wash them and make a starter. This gives you up to 4 months of relatively safe storage, without all these operations, and with high chance of success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;If you only brew twice a year, don't bother&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you work way below minimal wage, or minimal wages in your country are even more joke than in mine, your time spent on splitting yeast package probably costs more than a fresh package of yeast. Reusing slurry is only &amp;quot;free&amp;quot; if done relatively fast. So unless it's something extraordinary expensive, or something you expect to be unable to buy again, it's probably best to forget it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T10:53:53.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17271" CreationDate="2016-03-16T03:08:13.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slants are a lot of work, and generally not worth it unless you're dealing with a strain that's not commercially available. Or banking a lot of different yeasts with limited space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just trying to get more value from yeast purchase. Do a double step starter on first use. What you don't pitch save in sterile Mason jars. You can repeat this process indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T03:08:13.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17268" CreationDate="2016-03-17T13:55:44.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one more hop method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First Wort Hop (FWH)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Process of letting your wort run into a hopped kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think FWH has been totally quantified as to what happens, but I've gotten results simular to late additions + the IBU of a 60 min addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image below shows a FWH. Watching the oils come off is mesmerizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ukkE2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T13:55:44.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17279" CreationDate="2016-03-17T15:39:25.017" Score="2" ViewCount="2000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at these instructions - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geterbrewed.com/craft-a-beer-instructions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.geterbrewed.com/craft-a-beer-instructions/&lt;/a&gt; (I promise I'm not selling anything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In section 13, it says something along the lines of &quot;Add the hops after 10 days ... the hops are added by placing the tea bag into a cup of boiling water...then add the contents of the cup including the tea bags to the fermenter.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my primary fermentation vessel has a handy tap on the side so I never take the lid off to check gravity during my brews. I'll have to break the rules for these instructions which means air and germs will get into the wort. How much of a risk is this? How can I minimise the contamination? Why do we even have air locks if we are in the habit of removing bucket lids during fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still a bit new to this but this basic question has always vexed me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13443" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T14:07:09.573" Title="I'm worried about adding germs to my brew when dry hopping" Tags="|dry-hop|contamination|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17278" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:00:36.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much of a risk is this? - To answer your first question the risk is minimal. once fermentation has begun in force the solution is mostly unfavorable for non yeast microorganisms. no this isn't to say that a bad bacteria cant get in and spoil every thing they certainly can and will but generally the yeast will take care of itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I minimize the contamination? - Contamination can be minimized by properly sanitizing everything first. I would recommend sanitizing the inside and outside of the vessel you are going to use to boil your hops in and then if possible pour directly from that into the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do we even have air locks if we are in the habit of removing bucket lids during fermentation? - Air locks are as the name implies more about keeping air out than germs though they preform both functions. The reason for them is to keep oxygen out to keep the yeast fermenting and prevent oxidation of the organic compounds in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this answers your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13445" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T17:00:36.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2717" CreationDate="2016-03-17T19:18:44.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a Berkey filter (or maybe a Pur, running it through more than once) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trmplumbing.com/blog/chloramine/chloramine-filter-test-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trmplumbing.com/blog/chloramine/chloramine-filter-test-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13446" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T09:09:40.713" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T09:09:40.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17261" CreationDate="2016-03-18T02:52:45.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Homebrew Finds has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2012/03/storage-options-base-grain-specialty.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a comprehensive roundup&lt;/a&gt; of the different storage options for grain and hops.  I use 5 gallon buckets + Gamma Lids for bulk grain, and I have a vacuum sealer for smaller quantities of grain and hops.  The buckets sit in my basement, and the vacuumed bags go in the freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest thing with grain is (if possible) not to crush it until it's needed.  Much like spices, whole grains stay fresher for much longer than crushed grain.  I've had buckets of grain that took more than a year to use that still were OK at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, most local homebrewing stores on the internet in the US will sell malt by either the ounce or 1/4 pound, and I'd assume it would be similar in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T02:52:45.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17278" CreationDate="2016-03-18T06:24:50.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I appreciate that you want to be careful and do this right, but you are &lt;strong&gt;way&lt;/strong&gt; too uptight about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Open fermentation&quot; is a thing.  I don't think it's really common these days, but it is a thing done by professional brewers, for example, Anchor.  Think about that for a while.  Let it sink in.  Google it and look at some of the images.  Then realize that you really don't need to worry about contamination from opening your fermenter to put in some dry hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually take the lid off of my primary bucket several times a day.  I like to keep an eye (and nose) on things.  Take the lid off!  Stick your head in there!  (Don't keep it in too long because of the CO2.)  Don't drool!  Don't sneeze!  Your beer will be fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="6866" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T11:16:36.773" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T11:16:36.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17262" CreationDate="2016-03-18T12:06:26.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No hate here would love to know how this turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of Edible flowers: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_edible_flowers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_edible_flowers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try a Belgium yeast strain to get a nice spread of esters, that will complement your raspberries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T12:06:26.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17246" CreationDate="2016-03-18T12:08:50.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will be fine, it will either get consumed or diluted as you grow and divide your plant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T12:08:50.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17289" CreationDate="2016-03-18T14:26:01.527" Score="4" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had pretty good success brewing kits generally, but towards the end of last year I went on a mission brewing a few batches in fairly rapid succession.  Unfortunately for me, most of the resultant brews have come out too sweet and slightly flat in the bottle.  They all seemed to ferment out completely (as measured by hydrometer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has happened to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Woodfordes Admiral's Reserve, brewed in October '15, bottled in November&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Young's American Pale Ale, brewed in Oct '15, bottled in November&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brewferm Diablo, brewed in Aug '15, bottled in October&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brewferm Triple, brewed in Jun '15, bottled end July&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time I've had some brews behave perfectly - St Peters Ruby Red Ale (Dec), Woodfordes Nog (Sep), Brewferm Abdij (May), Better Brew Czech Pilsner (Aug), and another Young's American Pale Ale (June).  I've previously brewed the Admiral's Reserve with no problems too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; what might be happening is the newly-filled bottles might be being stored too cold to allow proper bottle conditioning.  Our house is quite cold in the winter months (my wife doesn't put the heating on unless it's about 16 deg C indoors) and most of the failures were in the Oct - Dec bottling timeframe.  I just put the bottles high in the conservatory thinking it would be warm there, but actually it's not really.  I wondered if this might be the case and put the Ruby Red Ale into the cupboard as below a day after I'd bottled it, and it's mostly okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to rescue the Admiral's Reserve and the American Pale Ale by bringing them into a warm place for a while (cupboard with fan heater, kept at approx 21 deg C).  However no joy - I wonder if the yeast had given up the ghost by then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I rescue these brews?  Possibly by venting, bringing up to a warm temperature and adding some fresh yeast?  My wife quite likes the sweet Triple so I'm not too worried about that, and probably the Diablo as it's very similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full notes from the failed brews are below (sorry for the long post!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Woodfordes Admiral's Reserve&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 Oct 15 Brewed as per instructions to 18 litres. Starting gravity 1.052.  On floor of the conservatory with heat belt, temperature over fermentation between 22 and 24.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;23 Oct 15 Checked SG - was 1.012.  Still a few bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;27 Oct 15 Checked SG - was still 1.012.  Still the odd bubble as well.  Racked to secondary which also bubbled.  Notes from last time said it was still bubbling slightly after 4 weeks but SG had got down to 1.005!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;06 Nov 15 SG now 1.010, so 5.5% abv (5.7% with priming sugar).  Bottled with 75g of sugar into 31 500ml bottles, put at top of conservatory to condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;21 Nov Bottles pretty cold in conservatory so taken to airing cupboard with fan heater, held at approx 21 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Young's American Pale Ale&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;27 Oct 15 Brewed short to 20 litres instead of 23, SG was 1.060ish.  Put vessel on floor of conservatory with heat belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;09 Nov 15 Vessel still bubbling.  Have twice tapped on the lid to displace water droplets which fall back into the wort and seem to kick things off again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 Nov 15 Measured SG at 1.004! That gives a current ABV of 7.4%! Added hops as it has pretty much stopped bubbling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 Nov 15 Transferred to secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;17 Nov SG probably 1.005 actually.  Is about 7.4% including priming sugar. Batch primed with 90g of the sugar (100g was supplied but I'd brewed short) into 29 500ml bottles and 9 330ml bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;21 Nov Bottles pretty cold in conservatory so taken to airing cupboard with fan heater, held at approx 21 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brewferm Triple&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 Jun 2015 (or 4 Jun) Two kits brewed full to 18 litres with 1kg of light dry malt extract.  OG not taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;27 Jun (approx) Tested, still at 1.020.  Gave a good stir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15 Jul Stuck at 1.020 so added Belgian ale yeast (Mangrove Jacks M27 Belgian Ale Yeast). Airlock activity by the end of the evening.  More airlock activity the next day, looks like it might have restarted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;29 Jul Gravity down to 1.011 - 1.012 so transferred to bottling bucket.  Temperature was 18 degrees.  Was a bit left over on the trub but tried to keep yeast out of the beer.  Beer was a bit cloudy, but not excessive.  Bottled into 30 33cl Duvel-style bottles, 8 33cl Leffe bottles and 7 50cl bottles (one half full).  Primed as per instructions with 7g of sugar per litre, so 100g for 15 litres indicated (all that was remaining after testing and leaving some on the trub).  I wonder if this might be too much sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brewferm Diablo&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;06 Aug Two kits brewed full to 18 litres with 1kg of light dry malt extract.  Starting temperature 26 degrees, OG 1.073ish, not easy to tell as head very full even in testing tube.  Airlock bubbling the next morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;17 Sep (ish) Gravity still at 1.020 so added Mangrove Jacks M27 Belgian Ale yeast.  Noted temperature was down at about 17 or 18 degrees C so put on brewbelt.  Next evening it was bubbling again and up at about 25 degrees, so brewbelt loosened a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;02 Oct Transferred to secondary.  Gravity 1.012ish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;07 Oct Primed with 112g demerara sugar into 48 330ml bottles. FG 1.012, so 8% (8.2% with priming sugar).  Up on to conservatory shelf to warm condition, although it's pretty cold inside at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13448" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T19:44:43.913" Title="Why are some of my batches too sweet in the bottle, and can I rescue them?" Tags="|techniques|temperature|bottle-conditioning|sweetness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17286" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-18T15:50:25.873" Score="1" ViewCount="2113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to determine the proper dosage of Campden Tablets to remove chloramine from water. I keep seeing 1 tablet per 20 gallons posted all over brewing forums, but I never see a source for this information. Is this really a good recommendation or does it just keep getting reposted and passed about as common knowledge without anything to back it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13449" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T16:51:25.723" Title="Recommended dose of Campden Tablets to remove chloramine" Tags="|water|campden|chloramines|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17286" CreationDate="2016-03-18T16:25:53.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The source I've used is &lt;a href=&quot;http://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?24149-Campden-Potassium-Metabisulfite-for-chloramine-removal&amp;amp;p=76932#post76932&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this ProBrewer thread and comment (#3)&lt;/a&gt; which references &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20081120235315/http://ajdel.wetnewf.org:81/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AJ DeLange's defunct web site, archived here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tl;dr version is: 30mg of sodium metabisulfite or 35mg potassium metabisulfite per gallon of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my usual 10gl ± 3gl of brewing water (10gl batches) I often over-compensate and just add 1g of k-meta to each (mash and sparge) water salts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campden_tablet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Campden tablets typically contain 0.44 g each of sodium metabisulfite (plus filler)&lt;/a&gt;, or 440mg, enough for nearly 15 gallons of water at the 30mg rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T16:25:53.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17286" CreationDate="2016-03-18T16:45:58.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks, jsled. &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20090106234302/http://ajdel.wetnewf.org:81/Brewing_articles/BT_Chlorine.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is the PDF that outlines the specifics from your link.&lt;/a&gt; The discussion of Campden Tablets begins on Page 23. Page 24 is where the 20 gallon recommendation appears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An important note here is that this is assuming the tablet is &quot;695 mg of, presumably, nearly pure potassium metabisulfite.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, from the article &quot;Our recommendation of 1 Campden tablet per 20 gallons is designed to cover this nominally “worst case” of 3 mg/L chlorine all as chloramine.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I look up water quality information on my local water company's website they state that chloramine is present between 1.5-2.8 ppm (or 1.5-2.8 mg/L) in my water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13450" LastEditorUserId="13450" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T16:51:25.723" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T16:51:25.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17285" CreationDate="2016-03-18T19:38:50.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature is your most likely culprit.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other possible cause could be not enough yeast in suspension. Typical if fining agents are used in secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably past the window for only temp correction to help your existing bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sweet and low carbonation, sounds like the yeast isn't doing much with the priming sugar. Either not enough or weak yeast and or too cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To recover your existing bottles.&lt;/strong&gt; Add just a few granuals of dry Champaign yeast to each bottle and recap. Store them warm, 72-78°F. They should condition nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T19:44:43.913" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T19:44:43.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-19T18:28:33.320" Score="1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cleaned my wine carboy with b-brite but may not have thoroughly rinsed it. Will my wine still ferment and will it be safe to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13453" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T14:49:12.780" Title="Carboy not thoroughly rinsed after cleaning with b-brite" Tags="|fermentation|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17290" CreationDate="2016-03-19T19:33:33.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how much of this stuff got into your wine. Pretty impossible to guess, but it is a slow working, pretty weak stuff, so your chances are pretty good. Only way to know for sure is to wait. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't affect safety of the drink if it will ferment, but if there is much of it, it may affect the taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T19:33:33.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17292" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-19T20:06:01.407" Score="1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing Black IPA. So I needed less bitter black malt. My choice was Carafa III Special - it is supposed to be de-husked kind. But it looks like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XtDm2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XtDm2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Malt photo&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brighter shot, close-up on thing that made me wonder:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gl5YF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gl5YF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closer look&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it? It looks kinda like husk pieces. But there should be no husk pieces in this malt. Does this malt always look like that, and what part of grain actually forms these flakes? Or maybe shopkeeper just made a mistake, as he weights and packs malts on demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T02:47:15.910" Title="What is this husk-like material in allegedly de-husked Carafa 3 Special?" Tags="|specialty-malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17962" CreationDate="2016-03-19T22:26:40.317" Score="0" ViewCount="1277" Body="&lt;p&gt;How should I calculate te correct amount of priming sugar (inverted sugar) in liquid form, pretty much like a syrup for bottleling ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking in using a cooking syringe to add it to each bottle, but I would like to know a more practical way to do it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13403" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T16:36:07.033" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T05:53:08.920" Title="How to calculate and add the required amount of inverted sugar (liquid) during the bottleling phase?" Tags="|bottling|priming|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17293" CreationDate="2016-03-19T23:09:30.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just the way you do with regular sugar or sugar solutions. Use one of many available carbonation calculators. May be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=carbonation%20calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online one&lt;/a&gt; if you don't want to install anything. Know how much sugar is in your mixture. If calculator calls for 120g of sugar, and your syrup is 80% sugar, then you need &lt;code&gt;120g / 80% = 150g&lt;/code&gt; - and that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to mix it in bulk. If you prefer doing it bottle by bottle, just divide result per number of bottles. &lt;code&gt;150g / 50 bottles = 3g / bottle&lt;/code&gt;, simple like that. Tare your electronic scale with empty syringe, suck 3g into it, see how much ml it is. Be careful to inject it without leaving any on bottle's neck, and to let it all drop into your bottle. Mixing in bulk would be much faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, consider malt extract, glucose, etc. Inverting sugar requires acids and / or enzymes, I wouldn't trust it not to affect taste of my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T23:51:53.563" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T23:51:53.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17292" CreationDate="2016-03-20T02:47:15.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;That's husk fragments&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Winnowing doesn't get 100% removal. Looks like the grain from the bottom of the bag to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T02:47:15.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17297" CreationDate="2016-03-20T12:47:33.423" Score="0" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought what was supposed to be Carafa 3 special. But it has a lot of husk. I don't want roasted bitterness and acridicity in this brew. What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today is the brew day and I needed to go with what I had. So I steeped 400g (grounded to about 200-300 microns) in cold water all night. Today I used 150 microns filtering bag and discarded solids. Resulting liquid is thick, black, opaque and hardly bitter. I was planning to add it at the end of mash, to convert leftovers, if any, and to filter it with the rest of my wort. But now, when I know there was husk in it, I doubt if it is the best plan. Should I rather pour it into filtering tun? Or add at the end of the boil? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T17:05:24.640" Title="What to do with not so de-husked Carafa 3 when brewing black AIPA?" Tags="|all-grain|specialty-grains|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17296" CreationDate="2016-03-20T15:01:48.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I still want other answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I needed to go with this brew, so here is what I figured would be safest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I let filtered black extract sit for few hours undisturbed. Leftover solids settled down at the bottom. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poured liquid, now clear reddish when observed against strong light, to recirculation tun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I skipped mash-out, leaving enzymes in my wort (hey, it's supposed to be dry beer anyway)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I started filtering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before beginning of recirculation, I heated black extract + wort mixture to 65 degrees Celsius, to make sure any leftover starch will convert.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T15:01:48.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17296" CreationDate="2016-03-20T16:05:51.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're good, if you're cold steep gave you the color and flavor you wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a note. Tannins give the bitter astringency and are only extracted from husks when ph is above 6.0 AND temp is 170° or above. So on that part they could have been full husk and mashed, but you would have more roast flavor extraction over the cold steeping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also this grain as already undergone enzymatic conversion of starches during the malting process. So a steep is all that is needed for sugar extraction. There is no need for it to be in a mash, it's just generally easier to put all the grain in the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T16:05:51.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17300" CreationDate="2016-03-20T19:50:06.230" Score="1" ViewCount="1206" Body="&lt;p&gt;What will happen with my beer if fermentation takes place either at a too hot or too cold temperature? What will be the effects on the flavour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13413" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T21:46:46.947" Title="What happens if fermentation happens at wrong temperature?" Tags="|fermentation|beer|fermentation-temperature|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17299" CreationDate="2016-03-20T21:46:46.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each yeast strain has an ideal temperature range to limit bad esters and phenols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Too hot&lt;/strong&gt; can give the yeast too much room to play, while this is great for yeast health and reproduction they will produce esters that may not be desired, also larger molecule alcohols (fusels). So the temp is limited to isolate them to a specific metabolism that produces more favorable esters and simpler alcohols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Too cold&lt;/strong&gt; If the yeast is too cold thier reproduction and feeding metabolism is retarded. Resulting in not enough yeast growth to start or finish a fermentation, leaving the beer underattenuated and sweet. The yeast that did grow will be stressed to do all the work of a larger cell count, and may also produce bad esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cell Count&lt;/strong&gt; Pitching the proper amount of yeast is just as critical as temp control. As it's the growth phase that produce the most esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Some notable examples&lt;/em&gt; of how yeast esters are played with. Traditional wheat beers call for a bubblegum ester that is achieved by underpitching compared to other ales. Many Belgian yeasts are very happy making desired esters at high temperature compared to other ales. Lagers get thier clean profile from cold fermentation but a much larger pitch compared to an ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T21:46:46.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17302" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:09:04.437" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two things: five gallons of nut brown ale that is done fermenting, and the flu. I really don't feel up to racking so how many days can I safely delay it until I don't feel sick? My fermentation is at 14 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13458" LastEditorUserId="13458" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T14:15:45.723" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T14:14:06.407" Title="Amount of time available for racking after fermentation is complete" Tags="|fermentation|beer|racking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17301" CreationDate="2016-03-20T23:02:22.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depend on a lot of factors. If it was in fermenter only two weeks, one or two more should not hurt. For light beers, under 6% ABV, I never kept them over a month. But I do have few fermenters 3 or 4 weeks old now, waiting to be bottled somewhere next week. Oldest is strongest, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For big beers, it was few months between pitch and bottling, and dang, it is delicious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, just do not open it. Do not let air into it. Do not agitate. And if your initial plans were right, week more usually can't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T23:19:19.170" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T23:19:19.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-20T23:16:55.970" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made two mistakes at the beginning of the boil, and I under-bittered my beer by 20 IBU. This is AIPA, so underbittering is serious mistake. Sadly, i only realized that by putting my notes back into Brewtarget at 15 minutes til the end of boil. I recovered using 35g Citra and 35g Mosaic at 10'. 26 liters ≈ 6.8 gallons batch. It got me bitterness I wanted (70 IBU in theory, and wort tastes just right). But my 20' addition was already there. I also still added 30g of Cascade at 0', for aroma. Didn't quite have a time to think it thorough, so, well... And I still plan to dry hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something like &quot;too hoppy&quot; Black AIPA? And if it is, have I crossed the line already, or can I still hope for it to be &quot;in style&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T08:35:06.793" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T14:06:50.677" Title="Can big late hop addition hurt AIPA?" Tags="|hops|ipa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17301" CreationDate="2016-03-21T04:32:11.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished a nut brown: OG:51 FG:10. Left it on the primary yeast cake for three weeks and it turned out great. Lots of people are suggesting no secondary these days, and a little longer in the primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in answer to your question: let it rest while you rest. It'll be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13455" LastEditorUserId="13455" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T06:20:52.630" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T06:20:52.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2760" CreationDate="2016-03-21T05:56:54.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a pound of the experimental HBC-342. There characterized as being melony and tropical. I'd say they had a bit of a guava flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might be something that you want to look into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6777" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T05:56:54.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-21T07:11:51.520" Score="1" ViewCount="3732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made hard cider this way: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G25FFvCpNoQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G25FFvCpNoQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;except I also added cranberries, a couple tablespoons of sugar, and cinnamon. And yes, I used Fleischmann's rapid rise yeast. Today, after 2 weeks my airlock balloon deflated and I decided to bottle the hard cider. So, I combined everything that fermented with a little bit of water that I boiled and added a good amount of sugar to (so that the yeast hopefully feeds on it). I tasted it and it was mainly sour and odd tasting. No apple flavor and not sweet either. Is this normal? Why does this not taste that good? Can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T12:56:04.397" Title="Hard cider funky taste" Tags="|cider|taste|aroma|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17248" CreationDate="2016-03-21T08:02:37.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I strongly agree with the comments made in this thread. Triple-check your gravity readings, and test against water (should report 1). Many (most?) hydrometers are calibrated for 16 C, so you'll likely need to make temperature corrections - refer to the hydrometer's manual on how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, you call it a &quot;lager&quot; but T-58 is an ale yeast. 15-19 C is a tad chilly, I would say. Get it up to 20-21 - that's still not quite warm enough to have to worry about esters or diacetyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, you mention you think fermentation took place by you are &quot;not sure how to tell&quot;. Did the airlock bubble profusely for a few days? Did a foam (krauesen) form on the top of the beer? If yes, then your yeast has done it's business and fermentation is complete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, You can always add more yeast - it wont hurt. Get those temps up, and let it sit for another week. Then, secondary to get things off the yeast cake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13455" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T08:02:37.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17306" CreationDate="2016-03-21T11:04:19.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making products like this with bread yeast is a crap shoot.  Bread yeast isn't always as pure as brewers yeast.  Its possible to pick up a contaminant that make the cider taste bad.&#xA;More likely though is that your contaminant came from the raisins or the cinnamon.  If these ingredients were from open containers in your kitchen, especially a spice like cinnamon, there could have been a contaminant there as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While many people get lucky making some sort of hard cider this way, its much more consistent to use higher quality methods and equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T11:27:56.727" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T11:27:56.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17306" CreationDate="2016-03-21T12:24:25.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You used the wrong yeast and the carbonation accrues after adding the sugar or honey and sitting for at least two weeks or more..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13334" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T12:24:25.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17303" CreationDate="2016-03-21T12:57:21.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can correct IBU with a larger later addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently shifted one of my IPAs to a single large addition at 30 min, with great success. Giving it the desired IBU and more hop profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as judging.There is a Black IPA sub category now in 2015 bjcp guidelines. Sounds like this beer is on point for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T12:57:21.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17306" CreationDate="2016-03-21T13:15:03.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you got a lot of attenuation out of the bread yeast. In my experience all Apple flavor goes away below 1.005 SG.  This can be corrected by using more juice of the same juice as a priming sugar, or back sweetening with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The funk was most likely from the raisin addition. An addition like this should be sanitized first since it is very likely to have wild yeast on the surface. Soaking in vodka or blanching rid you of most contaminating organisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the funk could just be a strange flavor combination and not a result of an infection. It's a poor descriptor, if there isn't a hint of pleasant taste to it. It may not be worth trying to save at this point. Let it condition and see how it is in a couple weeks, a lot can change with aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; From your discription of the plastic taste and the over attenuation. I think you caught a wild yeast from the raisins. Don't give up, just add it to your bad batch list. Many of us have very long lists of lessons learned. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T12:56:04.397" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T12:56:04.397" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-21T16:00:48.717" Score="2" ViewCount="704" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing a Pale Ale, the golden color in the Primary went into the Secondary and in 24 hours it turned completely black.  I keep the carboys covered from light and stored at 68 to 72 degrees. The reading was at 1.0009. There was a small amount of Star San foam in the Secondary but they claim that it won't have any adverse effects, (don't fear the foam).  The ale is very clear with nothing floating on the surface nor in suspension. The aroma is typically ale/hopish as usual with no off odor.  The airlock is holding with a little activity every few minutes.  Has this ever happened to anyone else?  I know that they darken some while in the secondary, but mine went from a nice golden to black as coffee. I contacted my Brew Supplier with my recipe and the steps taken and they want me to send them a picture.  The basic recipe was 6 Lbs. of L.M.E. and 4 Ozs. of Crystal 90 and 8 Ozs. Munich. Centennial and Cascade hops, Nottingham dry yeast.  Thanks for any advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13460" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T23:50:52.270" Title="Color change in Secondary" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6516" CreationDate="2016-03-21T21:53:00.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oyster shells work well if you boil them first to kill latent bacteria. Save the milky water and use that to raise the pH initially... then toss the shells in for residual alkalinity. Oyster shells add no flavor and drop out easily enough when you strain the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13463" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T21:53:00.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17312" CreationDate="2016-03-21T23:50:52.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleared beer in a carboy always look darker than when it was fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer that has suspended particles in it, namely yeast, will reflect more light back at you making it seem lighter in color than it is.&#xA;After you racked to secondary this stuff continued to settle out.  Not to mention that primary fermentation coats the walls of a fermenter in a bit of yeast so the primary ferment if done in a clear vessel will seem lighter as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T23:50:52.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17319" CreationDate="2016-03-22T09:44:59.863" Score="3" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to brew my first gruit ale. I was planning to use Myrica Gale, Yarrow and Rosemary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, I'm having serious difficulties with buying Myrica here in Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone tell me a good alternative to Myrica Gale?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13466" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-22T11:09:11.207" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T11:09:11.207" Title="Brewing a gruit. Myrica Gale alternative needed" Tags="|ingredients|adjuncts|alternatives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17290" CreationDate="2016-03-22T14:49:12.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to the first half of your question is, &quot;Yes.&quot; It will still ferment if there was &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; residual b-brite left in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to the second half is, &quot;Probably...&quot; The safety data sheet for b-brite states: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ingestion:&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;Short Term Exposure: Significant oral exposure is considered to be unlikely. However, this product may be irritating to mucous membranes but is unlikely to cause anything more than transient discomfort. Long Term Exposure:No data for health effects associated with long term ingestion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carcinogen Status:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SWA:&lt;/strong&gt; No significant ingredient is classified as carcinogenic by SWA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NTP:&lt;/strong&gt; No significant ingredient is classified as carcinogenic by NTP. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IARC:&lt;/strong&gt; No significant ingredient is classified as carcinogenic by IARC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I wouldn't stake my name as a home-brewer and wine maker on failure to rinse my carboy thoroughly and potentially making people sick. It could also produce off flavoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T14:49:12.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17316" CreationDate="2016-03-22T16:29:58.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Myricia Gale - Common names include Bog-myrtle and sweetgale.&#xA;Also be aware: The plant has been listed as an abortifacient and therefore should not be consumed by women who are, or might be, pregnant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK it is pretty easy to buy on e-bay:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/171997384055&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/171997384055&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see from your profile/linkedIN you are may be in Spain, so take a look here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.es/itm/181792919863?hash=item2a53b3d137:g:ZHYAAOSwLVZVmDF5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.es/itm/181792919863?hash=item2a53b3d137:g:ZHYAAOSwLVZVmDF5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T16:29:58.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17325" CreationDate="2016-03-23T02:21:08.230" Score="2" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last 3 all grain batches I've done have been using US-05 (IPAs) or 04 (porter) with yeast starters, which I'm relatively new to. Not sure what I'm doing wrong but the IPAs taste so similar despite very different malt/hop profiles-there is almost a Belgian, yeast flavor quality to them that overtakes the brightness that should be there in the style of IPAs I'm brewing. Before I started doing starters this characteristic never showed up. My porter (the 3rd brew in the aforementioned since utilizing starters) was spot on what I expected flavor wise, but I'm wondering if the malt bill there is such that it would overtake the yeasty taste no matter what. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what might be wrong in my process, as I try to be very careful with sanitization post boil/pre-ferment. Do I need to let the yeast separate 1/2 hour before pitching and get rid of the &quot;liquid-y part&quot; at the top and only pitch the &quot;cake&quot;? Can anyone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13348" LastEditorUserId="13348" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T02:47:06.353" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T14:10:33.377" Title="Unwanted yeast flavor last 2 brews (using starter)" Tags="|yeast-starters|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17306" CreationDate="2016-03-23T06:53:26.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different yeasts seem to leave more/less apple flavour.  I haven't tried bread yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sourness might just be the result of the sugar being removed by fermentation.  Apple juice is pretty sweet.  Also if the apple juice was naturally high in acid or vitamin C was added it could taste more tart than you were expecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it taste sour like green apple?  Often that ages out after a few weeks in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After aging around room or basement temperature for a few weeks leave it in the fridge for a week or two to let the yeast settle out.  See if that helps it taste less yeasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8399" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T06:53:26.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17320" CreationDate="2016-03-23T11:36:10.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing, its not generally recommended or needed to make starters when using the dried yeast that you listed. That being said its not likely to super hurt you either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its likely a combination of issues.  To be absolutely sure of your sanitation process be sure you are also sanitizing all your starter equipment too.  Treat it just like you do the brewing process.  Its a mini wort after all.  Upon transferring you make want to spray or wipe down your starter vessel with sanitizer at the neck.  If you use a funnel be sure to sanitize it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the size of your starter you may want to let the yeast settle, pour off most of the spent starter wort, leave just enough to help swirl up the yeast.  That starter wort can sometimes be very oxidized and it may or may not contribute poor flavors to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too be absolutely sure you don't have a sanitation problem simply pitch two packs of yeast in your next beer to see if the off flavor returns.  Then try again using one of the liquid strains for your starter culture and not the dried yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T11:36:10.520" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17320" CreationDate="2016-03-23T13:28:11.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IMO you should always decant your starters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starters are for yeast growth and health. Unfortunately this environment of a starter usually makes terrible beer, because the yeast is allowed to have an ideal metabolism for reproduction as a result they create a lot of unwanted esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main differences between your batch beer and the starter beer (the part you decant) are as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oxidation&lt;/strong&gt; Yeast needs a lot of oxygen for reproduction. If using a stirplate the starter beer will oxidize as soon an Alcohol is produced. Giving it the off flavor of wet paper, cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat&lt;/strong&gt; A good starter is very happy around 80°F. But this temperature is much too high for the desired esters of most beers. Belgians being the exception. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wort Quality&lt;/strong&gt; Starter wort is generally just DME, nutrients and a pinch of hops. Most likely nowhere near the recipe of your batch beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wort Gravity&lt;/strong&gt; Ideal starter wort is only 1.040 SG. Much lower than most homebrews today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;All in all. Pitching the entire starter only adds undesirable elements to your batch beer&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;High Krausen Pitching&lt;/em&gt; This is the practice of pitching the entire starter (no decanting), to reduce lag time in beer. I don't recommend it. But to do it right here's how. You need a similar starter wort as your batch wort. Typically boiled wort is saved and frozen from the previous batch of the same beer recipe. The starter should be kept at the same temperature as the beer will ferment at. Oxygenated at start only, so turn off the stirplate at the start of low krausen to limit o2 exposure. Most importantly, &lt;strong&gt;taste the starter beer&lt;/strong&gt; before pitching at high krausen. If it is close to your batch beer pitch it, if not decant it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T14:10:33.377" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T14:10:33.377" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2432" CreationDate="2016-03-23T14:04:18.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I juiced and zested 4 large grapefruit, mixed the zest into the juice and added to secondary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grapefruit were scrubbed in sani solution beforehand, all bowls and tools were sani'd.  I am getting more grapefruit bitter than I want.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am keging soon and plan to add a gallon of grapefruit juice to the keg (lost about 1 gallon volume, so replacing with juice).  So, will be more of a Shandy IPA with 4 gallons IPA and 1 gallon grapefruit juice.  I hope the juice sweetness overpowers the bitter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T14:04:18.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17320" CreationDate="2016-03-23T14:08:05.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Thank you, I will pitch 2 dry packs next time &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are you pitching 2 packs instead of just one?  I use US-05 frequently and just pitch one pack right into wort.  Takes 24-36 hrs to get going, but it does get going. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T14:08:05.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17301" CreationDate="2016-03-23T14:14:06.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you fermenting in plastic or glass?  Anything I ferment longer than a couple weeks or so goes in glass carboy.  Lighter pales and wheats with simple fermentation go into the plastic brew buckets.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Tart Cherry Bourbon IPA aging on bourbon soaked Oak cubes and tart cherries currently in a carboy.  I would not do this in a plastic bucket.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its in plastic, I would be more cautious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T14:14:06.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16527" CreationDate="2016-03-23T14:18:31.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How did this go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed a coconut IPA and used loose toasted coconut. The worst idea ever for beer.  I had to siphon out the beer through two vessels and use a screen to clear the big bits.  Next time, I will put the toasted coconut in a mesh bag.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What a mess it was.  Plus, I lost nearly 1/5 volume from all the liquid absorbed by the coconut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T14:18:31.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3709" CreationDate="2016-03-23T14:38:24.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using a keg, why not go the extra step and add CO2 to carbonate in the keg?  Then you can bottle or use growlers for friends or to take a couple beers with you and not be dependent on bottling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T14:38:24.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2016-03-23T14:48:56.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is certain equipment you simply need to brew.  Wort chiller is one of them.  Too much time and money goes into each batch to cut these corners. Plus, as mentioned before, wort chillers will save you time and money in the long run.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast will say the temp on the package and I usually see range about 76F and 82F.  No need to chill wort to 60F, but 90F is too hot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you seal your bucket or carboy with an air lock, then you can let it sit for a few hours until you are ready.  But, this doesnt mean let it set to cool.  Use a wort chiller.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T14:48:56.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17331" CreationDate="2016-03-23T22:06:30.050" Score="7" ViewCount="6461" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to follow a recipe in BrewDog's excellent &lt;a href=&quot;https://6303ffd34a16b1ca5276-a9447b7dfa4ae38e337b359963d557c4.ssl.cf3.rackcdn.com/DIY%20DOG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY DOG&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(see Albino Squid Assassin recipe, page 217)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As hop additions, as the last 2 additions it lists:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;* Chinook 100g   FV   Aroma&#xA;* Citra 75g      FV   Aroma&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throughout the other recipes it tends to list the last set of hops as &quot;Dry Hop&quot;. (in fact the recipe on the previous page lists hops for both &quot;Dry Hop&quot; and &quot;FV&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does FV mean here? Add to the fermentation vessel, while fermentation is still occurring? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12945" LastEditorUserId="12945" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T22:31:22.097" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T22:37:12.483" Title="&quot;FV&quot; abbreviation in BrewDog recipe" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17330" CreationDate="2016-03-23T22:44:05.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently it means to add to Fermentation Vessel as you noted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewdog.com/lowdown/blog/diy-dog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.brewdog.com/lowdown/blog/diy-dog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing it means in the primary, as most dry hops are in secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be the similar as a whirlpool addition, but have more rest time and hop trub for the primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; After more review of the other recipes. FV would be in the primary, after fermentation is well underway but not complete. Many of the &quot;FV&quot; additions would benifiet from the early alcohol for sanitation and churning of the wort during primary for suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this &quot;FV&quot; addition method is relatively unique, from other addition methods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-24T14:05:00.783" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T14:05:00.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3832" CreationDate="2016-03-24T16:02:39.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;another stab at the math. thanks @TMN&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;an acre is 43264 ft sq.&#xA;if we calculate for the least successful amount of 5 bushels per acre.&#xA;at the expected weight of 45 lbs of barley per bushel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(5/43264)*45 =  0.0052 lbs of barley per sq ft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this seems really on the low side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this fellow claims he got one 330ml finished beer per sq ft at the gravity he was targeting. &lt;a href=&quot;https://brewingbeerthehardway.wordpress.com/2015/08/02/one-beer-per-square-foot/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://brewingbeerthehardway.wordpress.com/2015/08/02/one-beer-per-square-foot/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;his yield was 32 lbs in 226 sq ft.He made 4 5 gal batches at 8 lbs of grain batch. that 0.142 lbs per sq ft. 2 orders of magnitude more than the other number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13477" LastEditorUserId="13477" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T18:23:18.780" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T18:23:18.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17303" CreationDate="2016-03-25T14:06:50.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the thought on this board about re-boiling.  I have entered into a few &quot;wort&quot; competitions at local breweries where they provide a specified wort like pale or wheat and we, the homebrewers, do something with it and enter our finished product into a competition.  I have actually done well with a Mango Wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some guys re-boil the wort they pick up from the brewery.  This allows them to add addtional hops or even add new mash malt sugars and their beer turns out just as if they had created the wort themselves.  One guy who reboiled a wheat last year actually won his category and best of show. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if these guys are re-boiling this wort, what is the thought about Molot or anyone else re-boiling their wort in order to introduce missed hops or for any other reason.  I'd say, Molot, re-boil and add your hops to get your desired IBU rather than making due.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T14:06:50.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2760" CreationDate="2016-03-25T14:13:35.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Totally agree with Mosaic.  I used them last year in a Mango Wheat and the combination was awesome, nice sweet aroma for the Mango flavor.  Did well in a local competition.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Mosaic in a coconut IPA I just took off gas for the same reason and switched from Mosaic to Amarillo for a grapefruit IPA Shandy.  Happy I did as I was blanking on the guava/melon sweetness of Mosaic when I originally built the recipe.  The Amarillo is working well with it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would put money on Mosaic in this case as a key in the guava note. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T14:13:35.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2016-03-25T14:20:58.993" Score="-1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Burned it???  How did you burn it?  too much extract in pot before adding water??  Burning will mess with the flavor and structure of anything.  Never burned wort before, but I would think it would be bad.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are you checking the Alpha levels of the hops you use?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you could also try FWH-first wort hoping. the process of adding some hops before boil.  The IBU of these hops will be lower than after HB, but it is a nice way to add IBUs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-12T16:49:10.773" LastActivityDate="2017-07-12T16:49:10.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12093" CreationDate="2016-03-25T14:32:12.860" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pale Ale - mostly lighter grains and less darker, maltier grains.  Then a certain amount of hops throughout boil for flavorful bitter IBUs to off-balance some of the malty sugars.  You then ferment with specific American, English, or Irish yeast.  That's a Pale.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, an IPA comes from the hoppy mouth feel and that comes from beautiful noted hop oils swirling around during the fermentation process and secondary.  These oils were needed to &quot;preserve&quot; English Ales in the crazy heat of India during English colonization, hence India Pale Ale.  The nice Ale one would enjoy in an English pub became an India Pale Ale via the method used to preserve and maintain some freshness by using hop oils that had a side-effect...hoppiness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;God Save the Queen!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T14:32:12.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9921" CreationDate="2016-03-25T14:53:30.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 5 gallon buckets and large mylar bags to store grain. Place mylar bag in bucket and leave open.  Pour grain into bag. Compress or push as much air out of bag as possible (could use a vacuum sealer if you want) and seal.  Place bucket lid on top.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hard plastic bucket keeps animals, rodents, neighbor kids, etc out.  The mylar keeps air out.  Unless you vacuum seal, never get all air out, but this is the best method I have come up with.  I am not storing grain for much more than a few to maybe 12 months.  If storing longer (like for apocalypse survival), probably vacuum seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try these options for the mylar bags.  Works great:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mylarbagsdirect.com/5or6gabusimy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mylarbagsdirect.com/5or6gabusimy.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shop.vacuumsealersunlimited.com/5-Gallon-5MIL-Mylar-Zipper-Bags-Pack-of-10-0753677481770-10.htm?gclid=CjwKEAjww9O3BRDp1tq0jIP023YSJAB0-j1STQHOEDNUdlLhTUms_jonUulZnHDnWkVWAmypncHvfxoCbJ_w_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.shop.vacuumsealersunlimited.com/5-Gallon-5MIL-Mylar-Zipper-Bags-Pack-of-10-0753677481770-10.htm?gclid=CjwKEAjww9O3BRDp1tq0jIP023YSJAB0-j1STQHOEDNUdlLhTUms_jonUulZnHDnWkVWAmypncHvfxoCbJ_w_wcB&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastEditorUserId="13472" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T15:25:46.380" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T15:25:46.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2016-03-25T14:59:13.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;all you composters.  Add your trub to compost.  its a great way to get and keep your compost process going.  bugs love food and moisture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually eat some of it like cereal on brew days. Some of it goes in the frig too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some honey.  Blueberries or other fruit.  Warmed milk.  Right out of mash, it is still warm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I compost the rest and share with my neighbors.  Each neighbor takes a bucket or so of it during the year to mix into their garden.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bird feeder...  great idea.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T14:59:13.697" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-03-25T14:59:13.697" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7183" CreationDate="2016-03-25T15:17:44.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mash problem can involve water, to or not to vorlauf, etc., but it all comes down to the grain. I would point to the process of using a blender to grind the grain and suggest this is the culprit.  BIAB is fine, but I got to say, brewing of any kind takes way too much time to cut corners.  Get a grinder or grind everything at your local homebrew store, a buddy's, wherever.  I think it is the use of your blender that is causing the problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T15:17:44.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2016-03-25T23:46:10.750" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been fermenting apple cider for 4 years, so my experience is limited.  Last couple of batches have turned out much to my liking. I am using &lt;em&gt;Danstar Windsor&lt;/em&gt;     My recipe is simple:  blend of several apple varieties from my little orchard, then pitch in yeast.  That's it, no sugar - either pre or post fermentation; no added flavoring. &lt;em&gt;Windsor&lt;/em&gt; is an English beer yeast.  I like it because it produces a cider that retains some apple flavor, and is not totally dry.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13484" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T23:46:10.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17344" CreationDate="2016-03-26T03:37:14.897" Score="2" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I add a complete pack of Wyeast to a 2.5 gallon batch rather than a 5 gallon batch what would happen. Would I &quot;overyeast&quot; the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T02:39:00.790" Title="Can I overyeast by adding one pack of Wyeast for brewing 2.5 gallons" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17343" CreationDate="2016-03-26T13:39:40.553" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. In fact, depending on the gravity, a smack pack might be just the &quot;right&quot; amount of yeast for 2.5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wyeast Smack packs have a &quot;minimum of 100 billion cells in a yeast slurry&quot;, but by the time they get to you commercially, some of those cells have died off. Commercial pitch rates are about 0.75 million cells/mL/P for ales (a bit higher for lagers) ... for a ~2.5 gallons (lets say 10000 mL) of 1.050 (12.5°P) wort, that works out to 125 billion cells. So already the smack pack is under-pitching, even for 2.5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T13:39:40.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17343" CreationDate="2016-03-26T14:02:28.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is possible to over pitch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most styles more yeast or even a full pitch* won't adversely effect the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if your beer style relies on yeast esters, this is where an over pitch can cause issues of low ester production making a beer miss its style goals. An over pitch will limit cell growth phase and in turn limit desired esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Full Pitch: A massive cell count that doesn't require any growth in fermentation to complete the job&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T02:39:00.790" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T02:39:00.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17347" CreationDate="2016-03-26T16:59:45.867" Score="1" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;We currently have all of our brewing equipment big pile in a spare room and have finally made space for it in our garage (as well as purchased some additional equipment for brewing there). We have a table we're planning to put everything on/under but since the garage is unheated we were concerned about the potential for large temperature ranges affecting the equipment, especially empty glass carboys (for now we're still planning to ferment in a closet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What problems could we run into by keeping things in the garage? The cold months seem most concerning, especially for the carboys but I could imagine summer heat be an issue as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T18:55:26.057" Title="Any risks to storing glass carboys and other brew equipment in an unheated garage?" Tags="|equipment|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17346" CreationDate="2016-03-26T18:55:26.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't have issue with natural tempurature swings on empty glass carboys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I store clean sanitized and dry with foil and rubber band on top. In the high desert which can reach 100+ day time and 30-40° at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T18:55:26.057" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-26T19:49:39.770" Score="2" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had 8 22oz bottles in room temperature for a long time (at least over 5 months). I noticed the other day that the floor was covered in dried beer, and after inspecting the container I saw that one of the bottles blew out its lower base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of opening them and wasting the brew, I thought it would be a good idea to move them into refrigeration. My reasoning was that the carbonation inside of the neck would dissolve into the solution, reducing the pressure on the glass. It did occur to me that this notion was pseudo-science and that the overall pressure in the bottle wouldn't change just because the CO2 dissolved into solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I safe to leave these in the refridgerator, or should I carefully open them and discard the contents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T13:39:21.060" Title="Will Bottle Bombs occur in Refridgerated Environments?" Tags="|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17348" CreationDate="2016-03-26T20:28:06.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you lower the temperature you will increase the amount of CO2 that can dissolve into solution, thereby slightly reducing the pressure. I would carefully open and drink them, over the next week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you could open and recap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do put them into the refrigerator and another explodes, then dispose of all of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-03-26T20:43:25.933" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T20:43:25.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17348" CreationDate="2016-03-26T21:25:21.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No need to discard the content. No need to drink them fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put them in refrigerator. Set temperature for 4 degrees Celsius. Wait a day or two. Now, pressure should be safely below explosion point. Put on safety goggles, heavy gloves, and carefully lift a side of a cap. You should hear a hiss of escaping gas and see foam rising. Stop putting pressure on cap's side when foam gets near the top. Repeat with each bottle. And repeat this for few days - you know when you're done when you can take cap off and foam is not rising at all. And then congratulations, your beer should be safe again. Be sure to drink one every week or so, and repeat the degas process in case of any doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T21:25:21.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17348" CreationDate="2016-03-27T02:36:37.520" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the others havn't blown by now, they probably never will with proper handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a bottle fails from pressure before the cap, the bottle had a flaw.&lt;/strong&gt; All glass carbonated beverage bottles (sold in the US) are designed to withstand more psi than thier caps and corks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most stress fractures happen when capping, by applying too much down force. Its a good idea to make sure your capper has a good soft rubber base the bottle sits on. The rubber can get hard if improperly stored. If using a two hand version, place the bottle on a pot holder something to give the bottle protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T13:39:21.060" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T13:39:21.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-27T13:41:04.870" Score="2" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I washed my fermenter out in meta bisulphate I then added a quarter teaspoon of bentonite followed by 12 litres of apple juice. My SG was 1060. I added 2lb of sugar for a stronger brew, SG then 1085. &#xA;I then hydrated 14grams bread yeast and pitched it in however I am not getting any fermentation have I screwed up and need to ditch it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13488" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T13:24:13.817" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T13:24:13.817" Title="My yeast won't ferment" Tags="|yeast|cider|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17352" CreationDate="2016-03-27T15:48:21.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Potassium Metabisulfite and Sodium Metabisulfite are anti-microbial in that they deplete a solution of oxygen which will inhibit yeast growth. But shouldn't be an issue if it was rinsed out well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bentonite as a fining agent pre fermentation can be a yeast inhibitor and delay or slow fermentation. &lt;a href=&quot;http://m.ajevonline.org/content/53/1/28.abstract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bentonite effects on fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your gravity is more of an Apple wine and far beyond what a bakers yeast can fully ferment, it will usually die out due to its low ABV tolerance around 5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you havn't got any fermentation, bentonite could be the cause of the lag, but it should eventually slowly ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the preservatives in the apple juice if it's store bought. Most use yeast inhibitors that prevent yeast growth. Some can be defeated, others can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T15:54:23.077" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T15:54:23.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17358" CreationDate="2016-03-27T16:02:03.250" Score="2" ViewCount="1120" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi me and my future wife are brewing a bunch of different beers for our wedding. Next up is an IPA so we are curious of how the dry hopping process works. I'm looking for do's and don'ts and also a description of the process from the fermentation until the finished product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some additional questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What types of hop are best for dry hopping? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I bottle ferment&#xA;after dry hopping for carbonation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12849" LastEditorUserId="12849" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T16:07:41.807" LastActivityDate="2018-10-06T01:28:49.733" Title="Dry hopping do's and dont's?" Tags="|dry-hop|ipa|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17360" CreationDate="2016-03-27T16:15:46.090" Score="4" ViewCount="3396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a small bag of whole barley malt. After doing a bit of reading I'm getting conflicting information.  Some say the outer hull in not edible, while others say it is fine and a good source of fiber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take &lt;a href=&quot;https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20120213215219AAwBAxv&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; yahoo answer for example, which indicates that unhulled wheat is the same as whole wheat.  I don't think that's true, as I'm under the impression&#xA;that the outer &lt;em&gt;hull&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;chaff&lt;/em&gt; is not the same thing as the &lt;em&gt;bran&lt;/em&gt; (and germ) included in whole wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the unhulled barley edible or not?  My intended purpose is simply to mill it and simmer as a breakfast cereal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13489" LastEditorUserId="13489" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T17:09:50.960" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T12:15:06.340" Title="Can I cook/eat milled barley malt?" Tags="|malt|food-safety|barley|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17352" CreationDate="2016-03-27T17:44:54.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how long you have been waiting, no visible active fermentation my be caused by several factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You have a leak and the bubbler won't show signs of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Temperature is vital. I've found that Fleischmann's likes 75F-85F/24C-29C for best fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) The entire rehydratating/pitching process should never have the yeast experience a temperature shift of more than 10 degrees. This includes your first feeding the started yeast and the temps between the must and starter when pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Commercial ciders are well known for having Sorbate as an ingredient to prevent spoilage. This will destroy any dry bread yeast strains almost certainly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note. Bentonite should be re-hydrated into a slurry and added at a rate of 1 Tbsp of slurry per gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T17:44:54.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17355" CreationDate="2016-03-28T01:45:22.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't want to eat the husk. You can, but it's about like eating a wood toothpick. But we need husks in the mash as they work as the filter for lautering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for using a spent grain. After a mash you will spead it out very thin to dry, turning it often. Puting it on a screen with a fan below helps speed up the drying process. Wet spent grain can &quot;spoil&quot; pretty fast so drying quick is a must. Once dry you can then winnow to remove the husks, then use the grain for cereals, bars, or grind to flour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T01:45:22.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17354" CreationDate="2016-03-28T02:02:05.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry hops are usually applied in the last 3-7 days of secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically only &quot;Aroma&quot; hops are used, but any hop you're partial too can be used. Just use caution with high doses of high alpha acid hops, as you can actually also add bitter with dry hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really the only other caution that comes to mind is the possibility of grassy off flavors, generally caused by high alpha acid hops and not enough time to rest out. Basically 7 days min for 10%+ AA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other draw back to dry hopping is they can take a lot of time to clarify. May want to consider a cold crash &amp;amp; gelatin or other fining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can still bottle condition. However keep in mind most IPAs are best fresh, so force carbonation is preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T12:06:47.597" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T12:06:47.597" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T02:19:25.707" Score="1" ViewCount="1752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like it tastes like soap and/or baloon (I used a balloon as an airlock, but I'm not sure if it is just thinking that it tastes like balloon). It could be that this is the yeast...could be that it isn't I'm not sure. It isn't green like my first ever batch of beer which is good, so I guess that is a good thing. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR How do I know if my hard cider is bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUUFE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUUFE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13419" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T13:45:06.907" Title="How do I know if Hard Cider is bad?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17355" CreationDate="2016-03-28T12:15:06.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Post mashing you've actually removed much of the nutritional portion of it and put that stuff in your wort.  The primary component left then is all that fiber.&#xA;Even using the unmashed malt for the normal human diet, its a very high fiber to nutrient ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can eat it but it is a lot of fibrous material to digest.  Thoroughly cooking it will soften the husk for sure and make it easier to consume.  Still its best to not eat a lot of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best application then is to use it as a fiber booster in some other food items.  Many people will add some of it to bread mixes. I have seen it applied to chili and stews at some brewpubs. (Again that wet application softening the husks making it easier to eat/digest).  However, even in these applications we are talking about a cup of the spent mash, not an application for the whole mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T12:15:06.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17359" CreationDate="2016-03-28T13:22:51.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well looks like it's done. &lt;strong&gt;If it tastes &quot;bad&quot; to you then it's bad.&lt;/strong&gt; You set out to make something you can enjoy, we don't always get that result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Identifying the off-flavor is the first step in correcting a problem&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much like judging a beer try to describe all the attributes of the cider that are not appropriate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Aroma, Flavor, Appearance, Mouthfeel&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also getting feed back from a novice palet is really helpful. Let them know there is a problem, but ask them to describe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Soapy / Balloon&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; This would describe two seperate off-flavors. &lt;strong&gt;Soapy&lt;/strong&gt; is usually just that. Soap. caused from poor cleaning and rinsing of something that was in contact with the cider. There is no salvage solution for this off-flavor.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Balloon&lt;/strong&gt; This one is actually more difficult to find the cause to. It may seem the balloon air lock was the cause, it's unlikely.  It sounds more like a &lt;strong&gt;phenolic off flavor AKA Band-Aid&lt;/strong&gt; usually caused by poor sanitation and a prefermentation bacterial infection. Or a wild yeast. There is no salvage solution for this off-flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't give up! I think I learn way more from &quot;bad&quot; beers than great beers any day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your cider is only bad in the since that it's not enjoyable to you. Its safe to drink and someone else may like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T13:30:12.347" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T13:30:12.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4352" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:40:44.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally you will have few commercial brewers that will reuse it more than 5 or 6 times with out re-culturing; and re-scaling up a starter. Ignoring mutation it could theoretically last for ever, but we cannot ignore this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ale yeasts you would ideally top crop at high krausen and repitch within 24/48 hours. For a lager yeast you would bottom cop and again reuse quickly. If bottom cropping for ale or lager as is common these days due to tall cylindrical fermenters then taking neither the first or last to flocculate is a must as otherwise you will put selective pressure for early or late floccuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasons you would not want to reuse ad infinitum are (in no particular order):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contamination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the culture gets contaminated with bacteria or wild yeast it is time to ditch it and start again. Unless you fancy trying an experimental wild batch, but 99.9% of the time ditch it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceptance of style drift&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How crucial is it that you make an identical beer every time? For a brewer making 1600HL batches of Budwieser it is critical, for a craft brewer it may be as important or not; it is a decision for the individual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mutation Rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rate of mutation, determines how quickly your yeast will drift form the desired profile. The rate that yeast mutates is affected again by many stress factors: the optimal temperature range for the strain, the strength of the brew higher alcohol level tend to cause more rapid drift, the number of generations more generations leads to more drift, under or over pitching can stress yeast and there by increase the rate of mutation, under aeration of the wort is another factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have got to the point where your style drift or contamination is too much you have a few options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Reorder from your stockist, very easy if you use a off the shelf yeast.&#xA;2) Reculture from a slant, hopefully you have kept some slants of your yeast in a -80C freezer.&#xA;3) Reculture from your last slurry, plate it out, pick a colony that meets your expected morphology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally as Dustin Rasener suggested in the earlier comments get a copy of Yeast (&lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.to/iiDdtA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://amzn.to/iiDdtA&lt;/a&gt;), it is an excellent book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T14:40:44.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17363" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:51:09.410" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T14:51:09.410" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T14:51:09.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17364" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:51:09.410" Score="0" Body="A yeast culture is a pure sample of a strain of yeast. Achieved by plating from dilute slurry onto agar. This yields a pure colony grown from a single cell, which can be used to grow up a new yeast starter as required. A culture an also be stored in a yeast bank for a number of years as insurance against loss of the strain." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T04:20:30.463" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T04:20:30.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:28:02.847" Score="3" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;Planning on repeating a recipe I designed last year, a chocolate orange stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was that not much of either the chocolate or the the orange came through. Was still a tasty beer, thankfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This year, I'm going to double the orange, but the chocolate I am not sure about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used 100g raw cacao powder, added at boil time. My thinking is that this simply dropped out before it was drunk. Add more will just mean more to drop out. My thought it to add actual chocolate, melted, but I'm looking for anyone experienced who might have thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My alternative is to look for malts that might accentuate chocolatey flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T21:34:12.567" Title="Using chocolate in an imperial stout" Tags="|stout|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17371" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:53:37.587" Score="1" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a couple of cloudy batches recently, both tasted as intended, so no contamination. This has caused me to consider filtration, I have a 100l kit with a pump so could use plate filters or membrane filters etc, as I should have enough power to cope with the pressure drop across the filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also considered using finings, but do not want to add any isinglass to my beers as I have many vegan and vegetarian friends whom enjoy drinking them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) What filtering options should I consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) What fining options should I use other than isinglass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) How do finings and filtering work in conjunction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T00:10:22.570" Title="Filtering my batches (no dead fishes)" Tags="|equipment|filtering|finings|fining|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17372" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:56:29.697" Score="1" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering plating up some yeast/isolating cultures and starting my own small yeast bank, I know that If I were to keep these at -80C in a lab freezer they would keep for years, but how long should I expect them to stay viable in a domestic fridge or freezer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T12:08:53.967" Title="How long can I keep a slant/plate in a domestic fridge/freezer?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17375" CreationDate="2016-03-28T16:06:21.993" Score="2" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am preparing to start my own small yeast bank and I was wondering what is the optimal method for scaling up to a starter from a single colony. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What step sizes should I use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What strength of wort should I use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long should it take for each step?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of an example, what would be the optimal path to get from a single colony on a plate to a starter suitable for pitching into 100l of 1050 wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit for clarity: By optimal I mean giving me the smallest pitchable starter, for the required number of cells, and having cells at the highest viability and vitality when pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T09:03:24.883" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T10:54:38.380" Title="Scaling up from a colony" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17365" CreationDate="2016-03-28T16:20:11.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would stick with the cocao powder not use chocolate and add it with about 2oz/50g of chocolate extract at flame out; to not boil off the aromatics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also experiment with some vanilla and/or coconut extract which can bring out the chocolate flavours and give an impression of sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you please share your grain bill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would personally not use a roasted barley for darkness as it will impart a bitterness that will mask the chocolate notes, I would instead include some Carafa III, Chocolate malt and/or some dark crystal; for sweetnesss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T16:20:11.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17352" CreationDate="2016-03-28T16:31:34.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get some wine or ale yeast and pitch it in, bakers yeast can generate off flavours in my experience. Also may I suggest you make a starter and pitch that in to ensure a healthier fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, with a starting gravity of 1085 I would let it ferment for a day or two, then give it a good shake to get the CO2 out of solution, pop the lid, to let in some extra oxygen then lid back on and give it another good shake to get the O2 into solution, your yeast will need a fair amount of dissolved O2 to ferment out 1085. Yeast uses oxygen to build sterols for its cell membranes and with high gravity you get high levels of yeast growth which require extra oxygen input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T16:31:34.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17366" CreationDate="2016-03-28T18:57:27.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) I've not used plate filters but seems they would work well, but be expensive. I use a cartridge water filter, and find they are easily cleanable and reusable a few times.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sstaE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Try Clairty Ferm, is enzyme based and it can actually drop gluten to FDA &quot;gluten free&quot; levels.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.whitelabs.com/other-products/wln4000-clarity-ferm-brewers-clarex&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.whitelabs.com/other-products/wln4000-clarity-ferm-brewers-clarex&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;If you want an inorganic you're left using silica gel or PVPP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) If you use a clairifier there shouldn't be the need to filter. Also filters do little to remove chill haze, while clairifiers can help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T19:47:48.113" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T19:47:48.113" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17367" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:03:37.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are really too many factors to give a solid time frame when all the cells will have died. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had year old trub I've been able to make starters from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to pick a safe age I would reslant a precious strain ever 3-4 months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T19:03:37.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17368" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:11:21.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to grow the slant up to about 100b cells by a mini starter, I start with 500ml 1.040 with nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then treat that as I would a new pack of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each step up of a starter takes 12-24 hours generally. Stirplate will help a lot to give more growth in shorter times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T19:11:21.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17365" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:29:36.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen cocoa powder added right to the cooled wort going into the fermentor. The yeast does a good job to keep it in suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8oz of special dark per 5gal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T19:29:36.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17368" CreationDate="2016-03-28T20:27:39.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I have pieced together so far: (as I dig up more I will expand this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 100l at 1050 I would require ~800 Billion cells +/- 10%. [&lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewacademy.com/stepping-up-a-yeast-starter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://homebrewacademy.com/stepping-up-a-yeast-starter/&lt;/a&gt; ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To grow cells from a slant would require me to scale the starter up first into a 10-15ml starter and from there scale around 1:6 times each step, so 10ml -&gt; 50ml -&gt; 250ml -&gt; 1.25l -&gt; 5l.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each step should be allowed to ferment for 12-18 hours at 22C +- 2C with 8 hours to sit in the fridge (overnight) to force floccuation. Then pour off the bad tasting starter beer. Re-pitch the slurry into the next sized vessel and top up with fresh DME/nutrient solution. [&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/starter_faq.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mrmalty.com/starter_faq.php&lt;/a&gt; ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution for the starter should be between 1030 and 1040 with the addition of yeast nutrients, and oxygen if you have it. If not a stir plate will force off CO2 and help dissolve more oxygen, failing these shaking every hour or so will work but be a bit slower and stress the yeast more. Pushing you more towards the 18 hour mark for each step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for a healthy pitch into a 100l batch it would optimally take 5 days to scale up ready for pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T10:54:38.380" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T10:54:38.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17380" CreationDate="2016-03-28T20:34:54.747" Score="1" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;How high can you push OG, taking sugar I know you can easily make a solution up to ~1180 (500g in 1 litre), but how high can a super saturated solution be? And, at what limit does it become un-fermentable, ie the strength of the osmotic pressure would kill the yeast before they got going?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T12:12:58.877" Title="What is the highest OG which is still fermentable?" Tags="|yeast|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17366" CreationDate="2016-03-28T20:43:19.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just cold age my beers in kegs so they drop clear in about a week.  I can then jump the beer to another keg or bottle after dropping clear to not have to worry about shaking a keg and then having to let all that stuff settle out again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used bentonite in mead and wine.  It worked really well.  (it is a volcanic clay so not animal based.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard good things about biofine clean (vegan/plant based) but I have not used it yet.  I have used isinglass in wine and it worked really well but that would be the entire fish guts you are trying to avoid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T20:43:19.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17365" CreationDate="2016-03-28T21:07:15.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try researching a 'Food Science' site.  They'll explain the effects of heat and prolonged heat on various forms of chocolates i.e. powder, fat content, aromas,  and what happens to their flavors. They can also take you into the orange problems.  Just a quick guess, it seems to me that a 60 minute cooking time will cause a lot of the flavors to sort of evaporate right out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13460" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T21:07:15.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17365" CreationDate="2016-03-28T21:34:12.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Hershey's unsweetened cocoa powder with great success in a Porter. Used a whole 8 oz tin of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added it during the last 10 minutes of the boil, with a really good stir to be sure it didn't go to the bottom and scorch. Although the powdery nature of it kept it at the surface pretty well. I'd recommend putting the powder in a bowl first, then dump it in from there.  The steam will cause some of it to cake as you pour it (like DME).  Then you can dunk the bowl in to get it all out if need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll see plenty of it in the bottom of the kettle, but adding it in the boil gets much of it up into the boil, so the loss is compensated for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T21:34:12.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17376" CreationDate="2016-03-28T21:45:17.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting question. Lead me to some interesting Google results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://faculty.weber.edu/wlorowitz/3053/tequilaopt.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;First is this paper&lt;/a&gt; regarding fermentation in the Tequila industry.  Brief take home is they went to 170g/L of sugars, but found that supplemental nitrogen is needed for good yeast performance (i.e. yeast nutrient)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://homedistiller.org/sugar/wash-sugar/conc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This second source sites&lt;/a&gt; distillers yeast going to 350g/L.  I'd expect brewers yeast to be less hardy than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it depends on your application I guess, but the yeast nutrient thing is important to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couldn't find a clear value for osmotic pressure imbalance.  I'll keep looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T11:14:40.900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T11:14:40.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17376" CreationDate="2016-03-28T22:08:50.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that raw honey can ferment if it has enough moisture content and a warm environment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an interesting thing that can happen resulting in snowflake yeast where yeast doesn't seperate during reproduction due to the bottle neck effect of the dense media it's in. This actually results in genetic mutations too. Pretty cool huh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as an OG that will completely inhibit yeast. No idea, but it seems it would need to be cut with a knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For brewing the biggest OG recipes are with Wee Heavy (1.130), Barley Wine (1.120) and Iced Cider (1.180).  None of which are &quot;dry&quot; styles, good attenuation is desired but just not possible to get dry because of the OG. Fermentation in these styles only reduce SG by 1.060-1.100 relative to the OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeasts can consume a lot of sugar in thier life, just not all at once. So if a yeast is tollerant to say 25% ABV, it will still crap out if thrown into a wort with that potential. Instead they need to be given additions of fermentables during fermentation to gradually get up to 25% ABV. This allows the yeast to strengthen its cell walls to deal with the increasing sugars and alcohols. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T12:12:58.877" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T12:12:58.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17366" CreationDate="2016-03-29T00:10:22.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chondrus_crispus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Irish moss or carageen moss&lt;/a&gt; (a type of seaweed) is used as a fining agent in commercial brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid I can't comment on filtration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13284" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T00:10:22.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-29T01:46:33.093" Score="2" ViewCount="755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I carbonated my keg with 30 psi over night. When I started to bottle (growlers) I noticed that there wasn't much carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I put the beer back into the keg and continue to carbonate? Will this affect the remaining beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to give it a go. Pouring it gently back into the keg and upping the CO2 to 35 psi and check it tomorrow. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13494" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T11:16:21.837" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T16:10:16.123" Title="Can you add beer to a keg and continue to carbonate?" Tags="|keg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17383" CreationDate="2016-03-29T11:21:23.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overnight at 30PSI probably wasn't enough time to carbonate in the first place.&#xA;Pouring beer back into the keg may introduce enough oxygen to create some stale flavors.  If you plan to drink the beer relatively soon that oxidation/staling may not be enough of a concern, but in time it may get worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your carbonation level with a pint first.&#xA;Keep in mind growlers don't always hold carbonation all that well.  You have to have a metal cap with a good seal in it.  Filling from a growler to go right to an event works, but storing it, even overnight, has never been very successful for me.  (You really have to have the right caps.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T11:21:23.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17383" CreationDate="2016-03-29T12:45:32.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxidation aside, as brewchez stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt; you can recarbonate the beer. However 30-35psi at 38° just over night probably won't be enough. Just is not enough surface area and time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some tips&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Full carb in a few minutes.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Attach the co2 at x2 psi you desired volume calls for IE 2.4 vol = 10 psi @ 38° so use 20 psi. Lay the keg across your legs, turn the keg so the gas inlet is on the bottom side and rock the keg gently end to end, moving the head space bubble up and down the length of the keg. You can hear the co2 bubbles going in when the slow or stop rock it again. Repeat until the bubbles have stoped or 30min has passed which ever comes first. Release the head pressure and attach for serving at serving pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In the Out, no rocking&lt;/strong&gt; if using a corny ball lock keg, your white gas coupler will actually fit both in and out ports. So attach the co2 to the out port to allow co2 to enter from the bottom of the keg. This gives the co2 much more exposure to the beer and can carb in 1/2 the normal plug and forget method time. There is even a special lid you can buy that has an airstone tube for this which can carb even faster. &lt;em&gt;This is Not for dumbasses. You must make sure this is the only keg on the co2 manifold or disconnect it when pouring from other attached kegs. The pressure drop from the pour will suck beer into the manifold from the keg attached to the out port.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plug and Forget&lt;/strong&gt; Just attach to serving pressure and allow a few days undisturbed to carbonate. This is my preferred method as it does well to clairify the beer too. You can cut this time down by laying the keg on its side so there's less beer depth to saturate through. But laying on side doesn't do well for the beer to clairify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T12:45:32.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17278" CreationDate="2016-03-29T14:07:09.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Don't drool! Don't sneeze! Your beer will be fine!&quot;  LOL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a beer will be in fermentation a long time, I use carboy to minimize oxidation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I am running a normal fermentation process (within 2 wks), I use a bucket and tend to open the top more than necessary to make sure stuff is happening and also to add stuff as it goes.  More hops, flavors, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never had any problems except once I got some weird yeast funk in a grapefruit pale (I think it was a bad yeast.  Took 48 hrs to get going too.).  I added 2 qts of grapefruit juice to the keg and keg dry hopped it.  That offset the funk nicely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T14:07:09.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17391" CreationDate="2016-03-29T14:30:24.020" Score="3" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple enough question for thoughtful answers. Some good recipes out there for Strawberry Blondes. All the normal tips are understood, i.e., 1#/gal, strawberries will likely kickstart fermentation in a secondary, strawberries will bleach out and really look awful at the end of the secondary so do not be afraid, among other tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife is going to pick local strawberries and freeze them. I expect her cut the caps prior to freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts as to washing the strawberries in StarSan prior to freezing to assist in surface cleansing? Or should I consider the &quot;environment of the beer&quot; to hostile for real bacterial contamination to take hold and just simply &quot;rinse them thoroughly in the sink&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3467" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T13:09:03.543" Title="Cleaning/Prepping frozen strawberries for a strawberry blonde" Tags="|fermentation|sanitation|fruit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17354" CreationDate="2016-03-29T16:03:34.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brew closer to your wedding.  Any reason you cannot keg and carbonate?  If its for your wedding, nice fresh keg conditioned IPA would be better than bottles with the crap on the bottom.  Bottles are usually poured with some finesse by the home brewer and not handed out at a wedding where guests may be drinking from bottle or just not used to sediment at the bottom.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lighter pales typically should be drank within a couple months of brewing. So, plan to brew and dry hop about 6-8 wks before the wedding.  These 5 months can give you time for some practice, trying out different recipes, hops to use (I like higher alpha hops for dry hopping, but then I dry hop for 2-3 weeks to let them settle out).  For your wedding, I agree use a low alpha so it is more pleasant for your guests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T16:03:34.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17383" CreationDate="2016-03-29T16:10:16.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why are you keg conditioning and then bottling into growlers??  As in, is that how you plan to keep the beer or just to take to an event, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I set 24 psi for 48 hours and get perfectly carbonation.  If I need to rush, I put on 30 psi for 1 hour, shake the keg for 5 min, 30 psi for 1 hour, shake the keg for 5 min and set to 8 psi to rest.  Ready to serve in about an hour.  Dont like doing this, but it works.  And, it takes about 3 of us to shake a keg for 5 min.  Arms gonna fall off after about 30 sec.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T16:10:16.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17387" CreationDate="2016-03-29T16:46:56.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using frozen fruit of any kind from a commercial source, those berries are normally flash pasteurized to kill surface microbes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following suit, I have brought water to a boil and dropped fresh berries in for 30-60seconds followed by a dunk in ice cold water to halt the process.  Never had an issue putting them in beer that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frozen strawberries always come out of thaw as a syrupy mess, though tasty.  So I'd blanch them as I describe then freeze them for storage.  Freezing then blanching is likely to create just a strawberry flavored blanch water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is the beer environment harsh enough to control any unwanted microbial activity?&lt;/strong&gt; Depends on the ABV of the beer, the pH of the beer and the microbial load on the berries.  Impossible to say for sure.  But if you were going to make the beer with the intent of not storing it ambient for long and serve it at an event soon after packaging, you'd probably be fine.  Otherwise, keep the carbonated bottles or kegged beer cold to slow the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T16:46:56.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17387" CreationDate="2016-03-29T18:15:00.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most fruit beer kits will give you a natural fruit extract flavoring to add post fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind when I did my last Strawberry blonde from a kit I threw out the extract and made my own, since it was too artificial in flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Making your own&lt;/strong&gt; for back flavoring.&#xA;I juiced 3lb of fresh strawberries. Using a centrifuge grater style juicer it gave about 3 cups of total juice with a frothy pink fiber separation of about 1 cup. I separated to only keep the red liquid. I then simmered the red juice to achieve a hot break and then cold crashed it, the fiber proteins was on the bottom and I seperated. This gave me 1.5 cups of strawberry goodness, to which I just added to the kegged finished beer (5 gallons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kept the keg cold to prevent secondary fermentation. The beer was well received by my homebrew club as a great example. I was very happy with the color and true fresh strawberry flavor it achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T13:09:03.543" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T13:09:03.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17387" CreationDate="2016-03-29T20:49:43.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made strawberry/rhubarb wheat.  With both, I cook the fruit and make my own puree, which I add to the secondary.  6 lbs of strawberries and 4 lbs of rhubarb that is cooked down.  I did not post-cook weigh the puree. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do like the idea of flash boiling, then freezing.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T20:49:43.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17394" CreationDate="2016-03-30T02:26:05.370" Score="1" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I'm living in Singapore I'm trying out an experimental all extract recipe consisting of pilsner malt, crystal malt and amber malt together with Wyeast 3724. I've hopped it with Centennial and cascade and was considering dry hopping with Amarillo. (Yes, I am trying to brew an IPA with Saison)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperatures in Singapore are quite steady ranging from 28 degrees C in the night to 32 degrees C during the day in my house. This made me use the saison wyeast as it's recommended for hot fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering now what the estimate is for it to fully ferment, considering the temperature here is in the ranges Dupont uses for fermenting. I've seen people say 4 weeks and some even said up to 6 months. Any recommendations for a target gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T07:42:46.480" Title="Wyeast 3724 hot fermentation" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17393" CreationDate="2016-03-30T07:30:33.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, Saison is mostly about the yeast. So what you're brewing will taste strongly like one. No way you are getting AIPA that way. Still, you may get an interesting &quot;bastard&quot; brew and I would really like to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, peoples' experiences are pretty consistent with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=60&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manufacturer's claims&lt;/a&gt;. Fast fermentation to 1.035 S.G. Then it slows down, and it's either months, hot fermentation temperature (preferably over 30 degrees C), or second yeast strain. With your temperatures, it should be hot enough for this yeast to finish in weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T07:42:46.480" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T07:42:46.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2384" CreationDate="2016-03-30T14:51:55.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I have actually never cleaned my lines.  The lines are refrigerated in the keezer, beer is sitting in the lines, when change out one keg for another, I run some of the new beer through into a pint to &quot;clean out&quot; the old beer and either enjoy the mix or dump that little bit. Never have a space open for a line to sit empty.  When one keg blows, another is ready to take its place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess, I could take the lines off the keg and run with hot water, but never had an issue.  If I used a party line that sat out in a cooler of ice, then I would definitely clean that after use that day.  Otherwise, not been an issue.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T14:51:55.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10731" CreationDate="2016-03-30T19:25:10.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, you need something with sugar for the yeast to eat to ferment anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to make Kombucha, you just need sweet tea and a starter SCOBY. Here is a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thekitchn.com/how-to-make-kombucha-tea-at-home-cooking-lessons-from-the-kitchn-173858&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how-to&lt;/a&gt; A scoby is a Symbiotic Colony Of Bacteria and Yeast (SCOBY). The yeast eat the sugar, making alcohol, and the bacteria eat the alcohol to make a vinegary tasting beverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to brew tea like you would beer or wine, I'm not sure how that will turn out taste-wise. Seems like the yeast you would use for beer and wine would make a weird tasting brew, using sweet tea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13498" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T19:25:10.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17400" CreationDate="2016-03-30T22:30:24.407" Score="2" ViewCount="907" Body="&lt;p&gt;When performing a secondary fermentation, &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5969/why-is-a-carboy-used-for-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;it's recommended&lt;/a&gt; to use a glass carboy rather than a plastic bucket, with one of the main reasons being that it reduces head space so that less oxygen is sealed up with the beer. If that's the goal, could you instead line a sanitized bucket with a sanitized food-grade plastic bag, siphon the beer into the bag, then seal the bag so that there isn't any head space at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/malt/item/265-brew-easy-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BYO&lt;/a&gt; mentions lining a bucket with a plastic bag to help with sanitation, and assuming the bag is BPA-free, food grade, etc - would this be safe or at all effective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13145" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T00:27:48.557" Title="Secondary fermentation in a plastic bag - is this safe?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17397" CreationDate="2016-03-30T23:12:24.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure. Wasteful, but it'll work just as you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T23:12:24.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7011" CreationDate="2016-03-31T05:47:49.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make a paste with Bar Keepers friend and rub it all over the surface of the chiller wait 15 to 20 mins then rinse. It is cheap and the oxilac acid cleans the copper very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T05:47:49.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17397" CreationDate="2016-03-31T05:58:59.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxygen in beer has to do with shelf life. A small amount of headspace is not going to effect the beer short term. I have secondary fermented plenty of 5 gallon batches in a 6.5 gallon fermenter with great results. I personally wouldn't go through the trouble of a bag liner especially if you are going to drink the beer within a couple months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T05:58:59.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2016-03-31T06:17:24.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To keep it simple get the wort below 80F as quickly and safely as possible before pitching and you will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T06:17:24.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10345" CreationDate="2016-03-31T06:21:45.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make a paste with Bar Keepers Friend it is cheap. Rub it all over the chiller then wait a few mins and rinse. The oxalic acid is safe for cleaning copper and works well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T06:21:45.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17403" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:00:46.303" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T10:00:46.303" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T10:00:46.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17404" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:00:46.303" Score="0" Body="The process of creating a fermented beverage from base ingredients and water. Generally used to refer to process of producing malt based alcoholic beverages but also can be used to refer to the making of Tea or Coffee. In the Home brewing sense, covers the creation of all alcoholic/fermented beverages(beer, ale, mead, wine, cider, kombucha, etc...)." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2018-12-14T12:31:06.477" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T12:31:06.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17405" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:06:53.840" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T10:06:53.840" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T10:06:53.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17406" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:06:53.840" Score="0" Body="A collection of equipment or ingredients that covers all aspects of creating a finished alcoholic beverage." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T21:31:12.813" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T21:31:12.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17407" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:09:38.370" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T10:09:38.370" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T10:09:38.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17408" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:09:38.370" Score="0" Body="Brewing using Dried or Liquid Malt Extract rather than extracting the sugars from the malted grains, in the mash." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T16:34:51.933" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T16:34:51.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17409" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:11:22.630" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T10:11:22.630" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T10:11:22.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17410" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:11:22.630" Score="0" Body="A distinctive, typically pleasant smell. Can be used to refer to the aroma addition of hops which is a late hop addition within the last 5 min of the boil that contributes the most to the aroma of a finished beer." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T16:35:11.370" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T16:35:11.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17411" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:13:08.170" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T10:13:08.170" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T10:13:08.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17412" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:13:08.170" Score="0" Body="The sensation of flavour perceived in the mouth and throat on contact with a substance. eg This beer has a sweet taste. or This wine has a fruity taste." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T16:34:06.210" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T16:34:06.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17413" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:13:57.333" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T10:13:57.333" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T10:13:57.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17414" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:13:57.333" Score="0" Body="Soak (food or tea) in water or other liquid so as to extract its flavour or to soften it. Often but not exclusively refers to steeping specialty grains or fruit." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T16:34:18.617" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T16:34:18.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17415" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:15:09.357" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T10:15:09.357" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T10:15:09.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17416" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:15:09.357" Score="0" Body="The submerging of crushed malted grain in hot water for the purpose of activating enzymes that will convert starches into sugars." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T17:50:13.390" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T17:50:13.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17417" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:16:11.410" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T10:16:11.410" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T10:16:11.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17418" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:16:11.410" Score="0" Body="Passing liquid through a device(the filter) to remove unwanted material." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T20:14:21.630" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T20:14:21.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17397" CreationDate="2016-03-31T18:40:34.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or, use a carboy as stated in the original post. Anytime I have beer sitting for more than 2-3 wks, I use a glass carboy. buckets are for primary and quick turn arounds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;sealing in a bag will restrict CO2 off-gassing. Airlocks are designed to let air out and keep air out.  the bag will restrict one side of this equation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T18:40:34.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T19:00:30.800" Score="2" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to put craft beers on my tap system at home. Is it possible and safe to depressurize a full sanke keg and pour that beer into a corny keg so I can connect and enjoy at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T15:15:05.647" Title="Transfer from Sanke Keg to Corny keg?" Tags="|kegs|sanke-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17420" CreationDate="2016-03-31T20:14:59.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not build a hose that goes from the Sanke fitting to the liquid side of your Corny?  I'd use CO2 at the lowest pressure that you can to get the liquid to move.  Otherwise, use a growler filler with a tube that is long enough to reach the bottom of your corny keg and treat the corny as a growler.  When you get home, connect as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T20:14:59.380" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17422" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-01T00:14:53.153" Score="3" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a wine a few days ago. I used apples and grapes but that is not what is important. For my yeast I used baker's yeast. YES!!! I do know that I should have used wine yeast to get better flavor and alcohol yield. Anyway, what I  would like to know is what flavors I would get if I distill my wine mixture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13505" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T10:56:20.163" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T19:57:30.097" Title="Baker's Yeast and distillation?" Tags="|distillation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17397" CreationDate="2016-04-01T00:27:48.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would work but it is not safe. As all brewers should know ALL equipment needs to be clean and sanitized. It would be hard to clean and sanitize a plastic bad so therefore it is not safe. Although I have never tried this before that is the biggest problem I can see. The second problem is that it is very very wasteful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13506" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T00:27:48.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17426" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-01T07:56:00.760" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T07:56:00.760" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T07:56:00.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17427" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-01T07:56:00.760" Score="0" Body="The invasion and multiplication of microorganisms such as bacteria, viruses, and parasites that are not normally present within the body of living organisms. Yeast can become infected with a virus, bacteria infected with a phage, Beer and Wine being non-living beverages can only become contaminated. They can become contaminated with infected yeast; but it is not the beer that is infected." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T16:34:26.180" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T16:34:26.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17428" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-01T08:10:06.480" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T08:10:06.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T08:10:06.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17429" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-01T08:10:06.480" Score="0" Body="2-Row is a variety of barley with 2 rows of grains on the head. Barley has a 6-fold symmetry in the head formation, but in 2 row only 2 of the 6 form full grains the other 4 fail to develop beyond the flowering stage. 2-row tends to have a larger grain size than 6-row barley." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T16:35:20.293" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T16:35:20.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17430" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-01T09:21:28.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common alpha acids include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;humulone =&gt; degrades to cis- and trans-isohumulone during the boil;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adhumulone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cohumulone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;posthumulone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;prehumulone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iso-alpha acids have an anti-bacterial effect on Gram-positive bacteria, but no effect on Gram-negative bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good read for isomerization rates is this paper: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ipcbee.com/vol41/003-ICEBB2012-E005.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ipcbee.com/vol41/003-ICEBB2012-E005.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2018-10-11T19:31:12.773" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T19:31:12.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17431" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-01T09:21:28.050" Score="0" Body="Alpha acids (α acids) are a class of chemical compounds found in the resin glands of the flowers of the hop plant and are the main source of hop's bitterness contribution to beer. The Alpha Acids are isomerized during the boil, and it is the iso-alpha acids that contribute bitterness to the final product." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T16:34:57.980" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T16:34:57.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17236" CreationDate="2016-04-01T13:38:52.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hoppier beers should be enjoyed within a short time after brewing.  The hop will not age well after conditioning and lose flavor/body over time.  More than likely, you are simply tasting old beer.  Im not really familiar with the other Canadian beer, but I know it to be a herb/spiced beer, so one could conclude that the herbs/spices would change over time.  I know my pumpkin and holiday beers, which are spiced, change after a few months if there is left over from the holidays.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated above, no idea how a sealed yeast could effect an unopened beer bottle.  Mad science happening if so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T13:38:52.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2016-04-02T00:22:41.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems I was using Pro Mash at the very beginning with what was then a then a brand spankin new 286 computer... I vaguely remember that it worked well but was not that intuitive. I believe that was around version 1.2. So for most of you, that was like back in the stone age.... For many years I did all the calculations by hand. It wasn't until I started building my 1 bbl system that I started to look for a viable replacement. As you all know Pro Mash at that time was for all intent and purposes, dead. The next was Beer Tools Pro... Good program... But still missing the mark. Just as a note, I still write recipes with this program and compare it with Beer Smith, which I use now. And really like! Especially because of the grain, hop and yeast up dates. But like all programs, until you use them and get comfortable with them, change is hard. And as another side note.... These programs are cheap. Commercial programs are way more expensive. So ultimately, It all depends on how much time you're willing to give to learn a program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13510" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T00:22:41.317" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-04-02T00:22:41.317" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17435" CreationDate="2016-04-02T07:53:58.027" Score="1" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an easy hard cider recipe that doesn't take long to make and hopefully ends up like angry orchard or at least tasty. Recipe should take me from start to finish. I already tried to make one using a recipe I found myself and it ended up nasty tasting. I would prefer to use things I already have which are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Gallon Indian Summer Apple Cider &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lot of brown sugar &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fleischmanns active dry yeast  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fleischmanns rapid rise yeast &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;raisins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cinnamon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also please don't post recipes you haven't tried and verified yourself to be delicious. Thanks :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13419" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T14:51:37.817" Title="Easy hard cider recipe" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17434" CreationDate="2016-04-02T14:38:21.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;F'emUpus Hard Cider 11% ABV&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV pushes this into Apple wine territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Into fermentor:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 Gallons Martinelli's Apple juice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 lb organic cane sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG 1.085&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 pack rehydrated/proofed Dry Champaign Yeast, yeast nutrients, 1 liter o2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;72° F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG 0.990 12% ABV&#xA;It's was very dry and alcoholic at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Back sweetening:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Reduced concentrated 5000ml Martinelli's Apple Juice and 5 cinnamon sticks to 2000ml. &#xA;This addition made for a sweet hard cider ABV 11% after dilution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took 2nd place in two different competitions, 35-38 points BJCP C2E Spiced Cider. Only flaw flagged by judges was &quot;too sweet&quot;.  To do again I would reduce the Back sweetening by 30%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kegged and refrigerated to prevent secondary fermentation, so other process would be needed for bottle conditioning and warm storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T14:51:37.817" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T14:51:37.817" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17422" CreationDate="2016-04-02T14:48:20.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When properly distilled the spirit product is flavorless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: However it's hard to achieve such quality. You can simulate your distilled spirit by adding a small portion to un flavored 100 proof vodka (is 50% Alcohol, mostly 50% water). Once you get a flavor you like you can then use those ratios as a distillation target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T14:09:47.020" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T14:09:47.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17437" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-02T15:38:00.530" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T15:38:00.530" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T15:38:00.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17438" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-02T15:38:00.530" Score="0" Body="An alcohol is any organic compound in which the hydroxyl functional group (–OH) is bound to a saturated carbon atom. Alcohol originally referred to ethanol, the predominant alcohol in alcoholic beverages. Ethanol is the main alcohol produced by yeast, but methanol, propanols and butanols can also be produced in very small quantities, which is why we have to be careful when distilling as we can easily concentrate these flavorful alcohols to toxic levels." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T14:59:11.650" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T14:59:11.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17439" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-02T15:38:54.003" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T15:38:54.003" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T15:38:54.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17440" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-02T15:38:54.003" Score="0" Body="The amount of alcohol that is present in an alcoholic drink. Usually expressed as percent ABV (by volume) or percent ABW (by weight)." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T15:00:02.540" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T15:00:02.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17441" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-02T15:49:35.313" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T15:49:35.313" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T15:49:35.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17442" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-02T15:49:35.313" Score="0" Body="Force carbonation is the act of directly infusing CO2 into a solution under pressure." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T14:58:32.320" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T14:58:32.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17448" CreationDate="2016-04-02T16:04:15.367" Score="3" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK I may be called crazy, and it won't be the first time but hear me out please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if anyone has tried what I am about to suggest and if so what were the results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could one reduce the cost of hops by taking the whole hops(not pellets) used for Aroma in batch A (in a hop bag or in the hop back), and use them for bittering in brew B. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As if boiled for 60 min they would lose all their aroma, so letting that go into the first brew is not an issue. And, being only in the boil A for ~5 min, would only isomerise and extract about 12% of the potential IBUs. Which means I would be wasting the other 80% I could realistically extract (allowing for~8% I will never get out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it is just that often I am adding 14% AA hops to get their lovely aroma and then chucking them, which seems like a huge waste if I could have bittered a second batch with them. Especially given how much energy and water are required to grow hops in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T13:23:12.917" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T13:23:12.917" Title="Re-using aroma hops (whole)" Tags="|hops|efficiency|hop-utilization|ibu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17136" CreationDate="2016-04-02T18:28:41.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never contacted a facility to do this for me, but have in the past purchased drinks, or tablets/capsules that have the probiotic organism I am interested in and grown up cultures from them and then used these to make a starter. I have not done it in the most scientific way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saying that if you were to get the sample, mix it into solution then plate it up you could get a single colony, check it with microscopy and a few dyes then if it was what you desired grown that up via a staged starter to get what you were looking for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would probably start by contacting the labs at you most local university, they will have experience and contacts and are usually more than happy to point you in the right direction. A bit of digging around their contact pages and you will likely find researchers who share your interests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T18:28:41.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17446" CreationDate="2016-04-02T19:09:54.117" Score="0" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;How quickly will bread yeast take to create and ethanol concentration of ~15%~,~10% and ~5%~ in at 30°C.I believe bread yeast is designed to rapidly fement(at first at least) but is not that ethanol tolerent so will progressively slow down as the ethanol concentration climes.I appologise if a similar thread has been posted already somewhere else on here by somebody else.&#xA;NOTE:I am not asking for a precise answer just a rough estimation from experience even  from wine yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13514" LastEditorUserId="13514" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T19:35:50.223" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T12:38:48.927" Title="How quickly will bread yeast take to create an ethanol concentration of....?" Tags="|yeast|first-time-brewer|bread|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17445" CreationDate="2016-04-03T04:10:40.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if any bakers yeast that is tollerant to much more than 5% Alcohol By Volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hypothetically: A fermentable solution can fully attenuate in a matter of hours with enough adapted yeast and oxygen. But will never exceed the ABV tollerance of the strian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T04:10:40.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9608" CreationDate="2016-04-03T06:35:00.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a purple beer using purple corn. Try between 7 to 10 ears of corn per 5 gallon brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13516" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T06:35:00.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17443" CreationDate="2016-04-03T10:10:16.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might be possible, if you are brewing two batches, one just after another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you will try to store wet hops, you are giving mold time to grow. Isomerisation continues to occur when hops are hot, so no way to dry them without loses. So then there is freezing, but that's troublesome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If done fresh, from one brew to another directly, would work, but you would lose some aroma you normally get from leaving it in during cooling (might not be an issue). Also, it would meant boil significantly longer than one hour. Many sources claim bad tastes and aromas like grass etc to appear such conditions. Depends on many factor, mostly on hops you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hint: commercial breweries seems not to do that, and they are all about cutting costs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T10:10:16.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-03T11:41:45.810" Score="2" ViewCount="651" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've just finished my 3rd all grain brew yesterday, first time trying a stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 24 hours, I'm only getting ~4 bubbles per minute on the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last night about 8 hours after pitching the yeast there was practically no activity so I'm thinking the yeast could just be slow..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried about that the yeast activity won't pick up sufficiently if it hasn't already. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also there is there is a little bit more empty space in my fermenter than I've had in previous brews, could this be a factor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature is pretty constant at ~21c&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13517" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T20:59:59.187" Title="Minimal airlock activity" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|yeast-starters|airlock|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17454" CreationDate="2016-04-03T12:40:17.730" Score="3" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of references to 1L/1000mL starters being made with anywhere from 2 cups (~473mL) to 650mL of water and half a cup of DME. The 1L size seems to refer to the expected container (a 1L Erlenmeyer flask) rather than the actual volume of liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have also seen references to a &quot;pint&quot; starter which I assume means the same mixture, this time referring to the volume of water used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just an inconsistency in the homebrewing community or do some people make small starters for (literally) pint-sized flasks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a modern vial of White Labs yeast or Wyeast activator pack, how large a starter is generally recommended for a wort of moderate gravity (&gt;1.060)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T15:08:45.240" Title="Are starter sizes meant to be actual volumes or container sizes?" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17449" CreationDate="2016-04-03T12:50:22.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation needs lots of oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I usually do in my 10 l batch is to shake my fermentation vat to add more oxygen to the wort before pitching the yeat and put the air lock on the vat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you started your yeast before pitching it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once did not do that and sprinkled the dry yeats over the wort as per instructions on the package, however, it took some time (a day) for the ploptivity - :) - to present itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13099" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T12:50:22.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17443" CreationDate="2016-04-03T13:41:48.270" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would me much like reusing a tea bag or coffee grounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's not much of anything useful left in hops after a couple minutes in a boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulling out hops does little to halt bittering since most the oils are now in the boil, and will continue to isomerize the alpha acids. This is why temperatures above 175° count as &quot;boil time&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the proposed use is to use spent aroma hops as a bittering hops for a second batch. Your left with a huge unknown of the IBU potential of the hop. This may suffice for a mystery parti-gyle batch, but nothing your trying to hit style guidlines on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't help but feel that this question was born from a flawed brewing method I see all to offten. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;improper hop bagging&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. If your hop bag looks like a hard baseball when it's wet then your hops are not getting the wort exposure for full extraction, it would be easy to smell and taste the hops from a bag like this and feel they are still useful. In fact they are, because the didn't get used on the first boil. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;hop bag, in the boil should be loose and flowing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  My rule of thumb when I do use a bag (I prefer no bag) is the bag should lay flat with one layer of hop pellets. A much better hop bag, is a full kettle BIAB bag so additions can go in a free rolling boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T15:16:06.557" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T15:16:06.557" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17449" CreationDate="2016-04-03T15:01:09.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like everything is doing fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 hours of lag time isn't bad at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra headspace has no effect on actual fermentation and little effect on air lock activity, though c02 does slightly fit in between molecules in air as it mixes, it's so small it's only a matter of note for novelty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T15:01:09.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17450" CreationDate="2016-04-03T15:08:45.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a starter volume is referenced it's the volume of wort the yeast is allowed to grown in.  Post boil volume etc. And should have a SG of 1.040&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can't tell you how much a proper pitch is in your case as more variables need to be known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Yeast Pitch Calculator&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; software / website / app etc, they are all based on the same formulas, that will account for yeast death from age, wort OG, wort volume and yeast types (dry, wet, ale, lager) to give you the proper pitch amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T15:08:45.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-04T00:28:32.660" Score="2" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to create an anaerobic ferment with just lactobacillus (i.e. no yeast), table sugar and water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible or would I have to add anything else to help the Lactobacillus ferment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12410" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T08:16:46.853" Title="Can Lactobacillus ferment solely with table sugar?" Tags="|fermentation|equipment|techniques|ingredients|sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-04T00:48:12.643" Score="3" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally use 10# pounds of grain in a 7.5 gallon boil, and normally hit between 1.045 and 1.055 OG, after it evaporates down to 6+ gallons, depending on the amount of dark grains used. My stove setup cannot boil much more than 7.5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to add, say, 5# of grain but keep my water constant, should I expect a roughly 33% increase in my original gravity? Or, can water only hold so many sugars before it becomes saturated, and the only solution is to increase my boil volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the latter is true, what is the theoretical maximum OG of preboil wort for a given amount of water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T12:19:51.877" Title="Is there a maximum theoretical solubility of brewing sugars in Malt water?" Tags="|wort|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17449" CreationDate="2016-04-04T08:14:01.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the previous posters mention it sounds OK just a bit of a slow start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If after 48 hours you are still concerned, take a gravity reading and if it has not noticeably dropped, then re-pitch a new starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T08:14:01.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17455" CreationDate="2016-04-04T08:16:46.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would need some Amino Acids, or at least some nitrogenous compounds to make AAs from. It would ferment some what with out, but it will need some nitrogenous compounds to grow and thrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T08:16:46.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17456" CreationDate="2016-04-04T12:04:55.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a max threshold for how much malt derived sugar will dissolve in water, but that' isn't the factor to be concerned with as its much higher than what you'd get with malt alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to worry about is that with less water you extract less from the grains themselves.  Not a conversion or solubility issue, but a rinsing/extraction issue.  As the the brewing liquor's sugar concentration goes up an ever lower gradient exists between the sugars trapped in the grist material and the water itself. This makes it hard to get all the potential out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most mash setups average 70-75% efficiency of getting the sugars out.  Decreasing grain does not improve efficiency, despite the fact that this increases the water to grain ratio in your example.  At a normal gravity like 1.060 and below, you'll only see the gravity drop.  If you per se, were doing something like a 1.090 wort then maybe it would improve some to have more water to grain.&#xA;Think of it this way.  If your mash/lauter was 75% efficient, would dropping the grain by 33% give you 108% efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T12:04:55.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17456" CreationDate="2016-04-04T12:19:51.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very high gravities of Wort (malt water) can be achieved in a mash (never &quot;boil&quot; grains). Super high if a reiterated mash process is used. So &lt;strong&gt;sugars in wort isn't a concern for your system&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your mash should have a water grain ratio of 1.25 quarts per pound of grain. For a good balance of protein / sugar extraction. There is a much larger range of ratios that can be used, but for simplicity this is the usual ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said for a 7.5 gallon pot your grain limit is 19lb. But that's to the very top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;15lb grain in a 7.5g mash tun is easily do able.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Welcome to high gravity beers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T12:19:51.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10982" CreationDate="2016-04-05T03:28:28.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If using Liquid Malt Extract(I use Muntons, there are others available) a good starting point for making a great Home Brew is 1L of malt + 9 L of water = 10 L of wort. This is a GREAT start: it will be a well balanced body. Hops? That's your call. Hops makes your base beautiful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13339" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T11:14:43.910" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T11:14:43.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-05T15:14:25.330" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently come across there being beergas or G-Mix and co2.  I had originally thought that it was just co2 and not a mixture of co2 and nitrogen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the issues with just using co2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13126" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T20:26:28.753" Title="Beergas or just c02" Tags="|kegging|co2|gas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17463" CreationDate="2016-04-05T15:26:31.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most draft systems for homebrewers use just normal CO2.&#xA;The beer gas of N2 and CO2 is used for 'nitro' dispense depending on the N2/CO2 ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T15:26:31.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-05T16:17:01.930" Score="2" ViewCount="1570" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for information on adding citrus (lime, lemon, grapefruit, etc) juice at kegging to make a shandy. I have made several fruit beers by adding fruit juice, actual fruit, zest, and even flavored liquors to the secondary.  I would like to make an actual shandy for the summer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I toured Miller in Milwaukee a couple years ago and the Leinenkugel's Summer Shandy was super, super lemony at the brewery.  I asked about that and was told that is because the lemon juice is added late in the process and much of it reduces through bottling, transport, storage, etc.  This was fresh and very lemony.  I want that in my keg at home.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T19:21:54.820" Title="Making a shandy." Tags="|keg|conditioning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17465" CreationDate="2016-04-05T20:10:11.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &quot;late in the process&quot; miller means they mix finished beer with the lemonaid then carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty easy to do. Use a Yeast inhibitor if it won't be refridgerated after mixing. campden / Posassium Metabisulfite&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go up to a 50/50 blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T20:10:11.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17463" CreationDate="2016-04-05T20:26:28.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As brewchez stated it mostly for stouts with a nitro faucet in the homebrew world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But Beergas is preferred commercially if a tap run is really long. The Beergas allows them to push at much higher psi without overcarbonating beer along the way, for all styles of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T20:26:28.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17062" CreationDate="2016-04-05T20:45:53.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always leave the lid of the fermentor on loose, covering the bin so that no bacteria, mold etc will fall in but allowing the air to circulate for the first 24 hours until a nice kraussen has formed then seal it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to seal it up tight on day 0 for the fear of the air getting in, but after reading Yeast by Chris White I changed my tune entirely and have not looked back. I get far better attenuation now, far faster brews and have not had one go bad since I started doing this about 2 years back... famous last words ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first couple of days the yeast is undergoing rapid replication, and the little bit of circulation, reduces the CO2 pressure in the liquid and can help provide the oxygen require by the yeasts to produce sterols in their cell walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher the gravity of your starting wort the more critical extra oxygen is in these early stages. Sometimes brewers will bubble O2 or sterile air through the brew after the first 4--5 days in very high gravity worts, to ensure the yeast has enough to replicate to the required extend and full attenuate the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T20:45:53.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17465" CreationDate="2016-04-06T00:52:48.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shandies (and Radlers for that matter) are beer cocktails from their respective home countries.  A true shandy is a mix of light wheat or lager beer with lemonade and done in the glass.  Companies like Miller are capitalizing by putting it in a bottle.  The strip the yeast out of finished beer, blend with lemonade and then carbonate it on the way to the bottling line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fellow brewers I know that have sampled shandies form suffer form the same issues of trying to back sweeten ciders and meads effectively.  They suffer from over carbonation later in the bottle.  Then nature of the lemonade changes slightly to as a result of the minor referment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always found that the most enjoyable shandy was made from blending in the glass. More importantly, everyone around the table is able to make the shandy as sweet or beer-y as they want.  As a homebrew experience I found doing it this way more enjoyable to more people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T00:52:48.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2016-04-06T01:20:51.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The longer you heat it, the stronger it is. Don't use the liquid into it's cooled with the ginger in it. Acid and chili pepper or Cayanne help as well, I use cayenne and lime.good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13519" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T01:20:51.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11918" CreationDate="2016-04-06T08:25:03.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping has a chance of introducing the bacteria that have formed this film, but does not itself cause it. If the brew is still tasting good, keg it and drink it, so long as you have alcohol in there then no pathogens will be able to replicate. I would not bottle as there is a chance of them going Bang!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes these accidents can create great sours. I have had a English IPA get a bad lactic case of lacto contamination, and I decided to try something new.  I treated it with Brett, as Brett would turn some of the lactic acid into esters. I had to leave it an extra 6 weeks for the Brettanomyces to do its thing, but once it had been left and settled, it was one of the best beers I have ever made. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well I didn't really make it the Lacto and Brett made it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T08:25:03.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11332" CreationDate="2016-04-06T09:13:14.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After adding the yest and waiting 3-4 days ask these questions...&#xA;Does it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A) Look like beer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B) Smell Like Beer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C) Taste like beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer to A and B is NO, then don't taste it, if the answer to all if Yes then you are good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T09:13:14.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10173" CreationDate="2016-04-06T09:24:24.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A) Look like beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B) Smell Like Beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C) Taste like beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer to A and B is NO, then don't taste it, if the answer to all if Yes then you are good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T09:24:24.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3832" CreationDate="2016-04-06T12:24:06.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 acre is 43,264 square feet, which is a plot measuring 208' x 208'. Brandon's math is correct at 25 bushels per acre weighing 48 lbs each. Using his crop estimates you can expect between 0.0055 to 0.0441 lbs/sq ft. That's why farmers use bushels per acre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be growing a 12 sqft plot of barley this spring and will be happy to yield 1 lb of grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13521" LastEditorUserId="13521" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T17:16:15.113" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T17:16:15.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17465" CreationDate="2016-04-06T15:32:42.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make a bottled shandy by using the zest of the fruit rather than the juice of the fruit. The zest is oil and terpine based rather than juice based, and it is magnitudes stronger in the taste of the fruit without all the extra sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally you can add and should add it in the beginning while all the ingredients are being sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are adding it after, I would boil some water up, and blanch the zest for 10 seconds before adding to your bottling beer. You will need to experiment with quantity because each fruit is different, but a good start would be the entire zest of 1 or 2 pieces of fruit per gallon. Yes it can be that strong, stir it in, let it rest and taste it again tomorrow to decide if it needs more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T15:32:42.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16294" CreationDate="2016-04-07T12:22:59.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try a stout, make it dryer than you usually would, and then add a little to sweeten it back to a balanced level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equally if you ever find you have an over attenuated beer that is lacking the balancing sweetness, you may try adding a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T12:22:59.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15844" CreationDate="2016-04-07T18:20:07.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't taste your keg.  If you taste something that shouldn't be there, maybe it's a sanitizer or something that was previously in the keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For beers I do, I think CO2 adherence to the beer improves with time spent in the keg. CO2 forced in doesn't seem to absorb as well as CO2 absorbed over several weeks in a cold fridge. Without knowing your recipe, water profile, etc., hard make other suggestions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T18:20:07.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7310" CreationDate="2016-04-07T19:24:18.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chew paracetamol before drinking it and it will taste great after that!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No seriously , I'm sitting here with the same problem.  My idea is to balance out with sugar even though that's bringing me away from the dry crispness that I was after.  My initial thought was to boil equal amounts of sugar and water to make a simple syrup and then experiment with the amounts needed per serving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13527" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T01:42:37.053" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T01:42:37.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15844" CreationDate="2016-04-08T03:01:40.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could it be an issue with a poorly cleaned keg? I've noticed off flavors when I've gotten lazy with cleaning seals / poppets etc. before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise time in a keg does tend to mellow out the flavor, but if you are tasting keg I'm not sure it will mellow too much more than it is now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3076" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T03:01:40.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7310" CreationDate="2016-04-08T17:42:20.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pick a juice and make a shandy.  I made a grapefruit IPA that ended up getting more bitter than I wanted. So, I decided to make a shandy out of it.  I ended up adding 1.5 quarts of grapefruit juice to the keg after trying different ratios.  I added an additional 1/2 gallon grapefruit juice after carbonating to get more juice flavor.  This worked very well.  I now have a new grapefruit shandy with nice juice sweet/tart at the front and a slight bitterness toward the middle of the flavor palate.  I also dry hopped in the keg with 1 oz centennial and think that brought a nice aroma to what was an overwhelming bitter flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T17:42:20.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15844" CreationDate="2016-04-08T20:53:32.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could try pushing the CO2 out of that beer and re-presurizing over a longer period of time.  I do 24 psi for 48 hours. Could try that to get new gas in your beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T20:53:32.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-09T13:47:08.750" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am starting to brew beer and when I bought my kit the yeast was stored in a fridge and I forgot to put in my fridge when I got home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is dried &quot;belle saison&quot; yeast and was at room temperature for about 8 hours with a maximum temperature of 22°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I refrigerate it over night will it be viable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13539" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T16:55:17.907" Title="What is the longevity of dried belle saison yeast at room temperature?" Tags="|beer|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-09T13:47:33.627" Score="0" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;So we had our basement flood last month and the company that came in to do the repairs moved my wine (6 gallons each of blueberry and apple) and at some point between now and then someone thought it was a good idea to take my airlock out of the glass carboy. Would my wine still be good? It could have been out for up to a month. I've been avoiding the basement like the plague until the we're done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13540" LastEditorUserId="13145" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T13:31:10.110" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T13:31:10.110" Title="Airlock was removed from wine carboy - is it still ok?" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17486" CreationDate="2016-04-09T15:46:45.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should not matter that much. if you order it online the postal service won't keep it refridgerated either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13099" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T15:46:45.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17495" CreationDate="2016-04-09T20:15:57.077" Score="6" ViewCount="8783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interesting in making some Sake. Apparently, rice, unlike barley, does not contain the enzymes necessary to convert the starch into sugar, and the traditional method of making Saki involves combining steamed rice with Koji, a mold (Aspergillus Oryzae) that produces amylase enzyme, which is responsible for converting the starches in rice into sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it would be interesting to skip to Koji and instead use pure amylase enzyme instead. From what I've read, the end product would taste different because Koji imparts a particular taste into Saki, but I thought I would try. Some people on homebrewtalk have reported that they have used amylase enzyme instead of Koji successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given a quantity of rice, for example, 10 pounds, how do I calculate the neceessary amount of pure amalyze enzyme that would be required to convert all of the starches into sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T20:21:17.543" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T23:16:12.693" Title="How to calculate the amount of Amylase Enzyme required to convert Rice starch into sugar for making pseduo-sake?" Tags="|sake|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17496" CreationDate="2016-04-09T20:20:11.733" Score="3" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading about Sake, and from what I gather, Sake brewers use a particular method to coax the yeast into producing 15-20% ABV. The method goes something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combine a mold called Koji with a small quantity of rice to break the starches into sugar, and add yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After some time, add more koji rice to the fermenter, and then add double the rice originally used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After some time, add more koji and double the amount of rice used in step 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, if a sake brewer were to add all of the koji, yeast, and rice into one step, the ABV would not exceed 5-10%. However, by doubling the amount of rice after the former step has been fully fermented, the yeast can somehow survive the highly alcoholic environment and keep producing more alcohol, up to 15-20% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this same method be used in the production of beer to create a 15-20% ABV homebrew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="8203" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T17:45:55.320" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T17:45:55.320" Title="Can the same method of producing 19% ABV Sake be used to produce high ABV beer?" Tags="|alcohol-content|sake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17492" CreationDate="2016-04-09T21:56:45.097" Score="2" ViewCount="5808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what are the effects of fermenting a lager at room temperature as now I don't have any way to keep my fermenter at the low temperatures required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that when yeast ferments at higher temperatures it produces more esters and develops fruity flavours. One of my favourite beer styles is Oktoberfest, has anyone tried to ferment an Oktoberfest lager at room temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13413" LastEditorUserId="13413" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T09:35:48.293" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T13:26:25.120" Title="What happens if I ferment a lager at room temperature?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|lager|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17491" CreationDate="2016-04-09T22:06:12.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, fermenting lager yeast at room temperatures would result in off flavors due to esters, diacetyl, and other components. The &quot;California Common&quot; is an exception to this, and the standard explanation is that the yeast strain (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=131&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyeast 2112&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp810-san-francisco-lager-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WLP810&lt;/a&gt;) used for this style of beer can handle higher temperatures than most lager strains. Who knows, however, you might wish to experiment with higher than lager temperatures with other strains to see what you discover!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, if you can control your fermentation chamber, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/methods/lager-method/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brulosophy&lt;/a&gt; method let's you start fermentation at lager temperatures and allows you to increase the temperature slowly up to ale temperatures, which results in a faster fermentation without off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T22:06:12.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17491" CreationDate="2016-04-10T12:55:18.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most lagers need to ferment below 55°F during growth phase to reduce esters and fusel alcohols. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diacetyl Rest&lt;/strong&gt; Towards the end of the feeding phase (last couple days of primary) the temperature is raised to low ale temps 65-72° for a couple days, this gives the yeast a boost in metabolism to clean up Diacetyl. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;So heat is a good thing at one point in the fermentation.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then lagering can be slowly introduced, at about 1° drop an hour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T12:55:18.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17490" CreationDate="2016-04-10T13:06:48.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its all about gradually allowing the yeast to strengthen its cell walls for the target ABV.  &lt;em&gt;Hitting the yeast all at once with all the fermentables is like having a body builder eat 1/2 a cow of meat and expect him to lift twice as much the next day... Eating the meat alone will kill him on the first day.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most beers above 10% they benifiet from feeding sugars and nutrients and oxygen during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White labs has Super High Gravity yeast than can do 15% without too much help, but can hit 27% if nurtured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ask any homebrewer, going above 20% is kinda like breaking the sound barrier, it can be done but it's hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T13:06:48.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17489" CreationDate="2016-04-10T13:28:40.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's usually 1/2 oz of amylase per 10lb of enzyme free grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each product of amylase may differ in dosage, but should be documented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will still need a mash of proper temp and ph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally a cereal mash is used, which uses up to 50% enzyme grain to convert the non enzyme grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 100% rice mash you will need amylase and rice hulls (lautering filter) and possibly an acid to reduce mash ph to 5.2-5.6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T01:10:26.647" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T01:10:26.647" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17490" CreationDate="2016-04-10T14:14:11.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it wouldn't be &lt;em&gt;literally&lt;/em&gt; the same process (in saké production starch degradation and alcohol production take place simultaneously, in the presence of two different types of organisms which have different and not necessarily compatible optimum conditions), something similar is definitely practiced in brewing, in which yeast are encouraged to make more alcohol by a sort of delayed feeding schedule. I've seen this practiced before, though I've never really experimented with it myself. My recommendations therefore would be limited to &lt;em&gt;'try it a few times and see what happens'&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit of theory as to why this method is sound, however: in higher gravity (meaning higher sugar) worts, yeast are increasingly subject to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osmotic_pressure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;osmotic pressure&lt;/a&gt;, caused by the high difference in concentration of dissolved materials on either side of the yeast's outer membranes. It's been suggested &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbaa.com/publications/tq/tqPastIssues/1999/Abstracts/tq99ab68.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;*&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; that at wort gravties above 18°P the osmotic pressure is enough to suppress yeast reproduction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine you plan a beer to be 15% ABV. You'd need a starting wort gravity of ~35-40°P (assuming 75% attenuation, which may be generous) to hit 15% ABV. This would put enormous stress on your yeast &lt;em&gt;from the start&lt;/em&gt;. This stressed yeast then has the task of fermenting into a high alcohol range, as well. Evey the most alcohol-tolerant yeast might not do so well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine instead you start with a weaker wort (say 20°P) and once the yeast gets going, you start feeding it either very concentrated wort, or, probably more practically, a sugar or extract solution, every 12-36 hours. This way you're catching the yeast at its most vigorous (in the exponential growth phase) and, if dosed properly, are never putting the yeast in an environment dense enough to really affect its physiology. Minus the osmotic stress, the yeast will most likely always be able to ferment to a higher degree of attenuation than if you started off in a super-dense medium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you take account of all your additions (gravity and volume) you should have no trouble figuring out the total ABV% once it has end-fermented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T14:14:11.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17254" CreationDate="2016-04-10T15:43:14.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I remeber correctly you have the 1 gal. glass carboy and ran a tube from the lid into a pot of sanitized solution. After the bubbling slowed the airlock was supposed to go on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What youre seeing is Krauzen - totally normal amd will sink to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be storing your fermentables in a dark place that stays around 60-70 F ...think cupboard or pantry, in a week or two depending on when you brewed - secondary-ferment into bottles with some bottling sugar and leave for another couple weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All told you should probably wait at least 4 weeks, minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13528" LastEditorUserId="13528" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T20:38:50.373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T20:38:50.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17487" CreationDate="2016-04-10T19:47:51.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No way to really know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sure it will be more oxidized. It will be a flaw in taste, but no one can know how big one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Real danger is with flood. Flood promotes mold, and other bad microorganisms. We can't know if some is in your wine, and how much alcohol was there when it got contaminated, if it was. Worst case? Little alcohol, sourness, &quot;toilet&quot; taste, poisonous. Best case? Nothing wrong. There is simply not enough data to tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T19:47:51.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17486" CreationDate="2016-04-11T10:10:22.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is dried yeast, it will be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should how ever allow it to warm to room temperature before adding it to your wort. And, you should probably look at how to  rehydrate it before pitching or make a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T10:10:22.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17491" CreationDate="2016-04-11T13:26:25.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The result is strain dependent for sure.  In general, more esters is the prevailing wisdom, but more than an English ale yeast at room temperature?  I've never seen the experiment done side by side so who knows.  Experimentation would be needed to really suss it all out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping some of the 'hybrid' strains as cool as possible can give some very clean tasting ferments. Enough to pass off an Octoberfest as tasty even if not the purest of methods and flavor profiles.  You might find you like it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T13:26:25.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-11T14:02:13.910" Score="2" ViewCount="7714" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is submerging bottles in boiling water (assuming they've been rinsed out) for a few minutes a good method of sterilization?  I'm still planning on spraying some metabisulphite afterwards, and then some star-san just before bottling.  I just want to know if I can substitute a bleach soak with boiling water water.  This is because I find the bleach method takes forever, including having to remove the flip-top wiring from the bottle, and rinsing the bleach-solution residue from the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3479" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T14:30:01.310" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T00:12:06.403" Title="Is submerging bottles in boiling water a good method of sanitization?" Tags="|cleaning|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17501" CreationDate="2016-04-11T14:32:29.077" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should work fine for sanitation, as long as the bottles have been cleaned in advance.  If you were planning on using some star-san later though, why bother with the boiling water (or even the bleach in previous runs)?  There really is no reason to sanitize twice like that.  Clean the bottles well and let them sit until ready to use.  Before bottling dunk them in some star san.  No need for wasting time with boiling water or super hot bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T14:32:29.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17501" CreationDate="2016-04-11T18:10:07.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply washing with dish soap to remove residual beer and dirt from outside (lipstick) is fine.  I then rinse with sani solution before storing.  When I am ready to use a bottle, I rinse again with sani solution and bottle.  No boiling water and hot bottles.  No bleach.  I have tossed a couple bottles that got some stuff growing in them because they were not washed, but other than that no issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same with growlers.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T18:10:07.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16294" CreationDate="2016-04-11T18:19:35.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How are you planning to introduce the stevia? Are you growing the plant and plan to extract yourself, buying it as a sweetner, etc?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If dried, then place in a hop bag with a lighter ale or lager in secondary and/or kegging. If fresh, then place fresh leaves in container with vodka for 36hrs to extract. Can either cook (but not boil) liquid to condense or simply add liquid to the secondary. Issue is stevia extract is green, so green beer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastEditorUserId="3056" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T13:09:28.893" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T13:09:28.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17465" CreationDate="2016-04-11T19:21:54.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you plan on creating any of these beer cocktails and have access to a kegging system, this is your best approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;allow primary fermentation to complete&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/958/how-much-potassium-metabisulfite-potassium-sorbate-to-stop-fermentation&quot;&gt;potassium sorbate&lt;/a&gt; and potassium metabisulfite (Campden tablets) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait 12 hours&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rack to keg and carbonate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you follow the above directions, you should be able to add any normally fermentable juices without triggering fermentation.  The main issue with this is that it completely removes the option to carbonate your beer via bottle priming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Potassium sorbate prevents yeast from reproducing, while Campden tablets shock the yeast (normally not enough to completely kill them).  Potassium sorbate on its own will heavily hinder fermentation but not entirely stop it, and Campden tablets will stall fermentation temporarily, but either option on its own is not enough to completely prevent continuing fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13545" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T19:21:54.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17501" CreationDate="2016-04-11T19:38:47.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i believe you can sanitize with either chemical or heat or a combination of both.&#xA;Providing the bottles are clean you can santitze them with hot water at 82degrees if submerged for 30 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13546" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T19:38:47.623" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17501" CreationDate="2016-04-12T00:36:18.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling your bottles is a great way to clean but you still need to use sanitizer.I run my bottles thru the dishwasher without detergent then sanitize before bottling..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13334" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T00:36:18.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-12T05:34:49.183" Score="0" ViewCount="1021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made Hard Cider by essentially adding a packet of active dry yeast to a little less than a gallon of apple cider and some water with sugar that I boiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One week later (today) I boiled one cup of water and added 1.5 cups of brown sugar for a while until it was syrupy, then added that to the Cider I had going. Then I mixed and put it all in bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long before I should put the bottles in the fridge? I want maximum alcohol content. I also prefer minimum gunk at the bottom from dead yeast or at least if that sticks to the bottom and doesn't float around in beer that is fine with me too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13419" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T12:00:27.027" Title="Bottling hard cider" Tags="|bottling|cider|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17508" CreationDate="2016-04-12T07:55:10.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a lot of priming sugar for one gallon, your bottles are in danger of popping if your yeast can handle it and it's left for too long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention total sugar amounts added, gravity readings or yeast used, so a couple of things could happen here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yeast alcohol tolerance is reached, and nothing more will happen. Your cider will be flat and sweet. Baking yeast will top out at ~5%, some ale yeasts might not get much higher either. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You bottled before the yeasts alcohol tolerance was achieved, and you are now sitting on potential bottle bombs. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, if you want to use refrigeration or pasteurization to stop fermentation it's a good idea to use PET bottles, so you can test the pressure by squeezing the bottle. Once they are firm, refrigerate or pasteurize. &quot;Hippie-style&quot; ginger ale- and hard lemonade recipes often go this route. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you used glass bottles I would test one every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cider will typically be cloudy for a few days, then gradually settle over a couple of weeks. Normally with my cider, it's settled solid enough in about 4 weeks that I can pour normally and get a clear product in the glass with the solids stuck in the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ABV concerns, once it's in the bottle, it is too late for adjustment. There's only so much fermentation that can happen in the bottle before the carbonation pressure reaches unsafe levels, you need to stop it somehow before that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13548" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T07:55:10.190" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-12T09:43:06.583" Score="2" ViewCount="633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just moved my first lager into a secondary bucket, it had been in primary for about 3 weeks. Currently sitting in the keezer at about 10c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TuinV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recipe I'm following&lt;/a&gt; calls for the addition of about 300g of hops for dry hopping. I was just wondering what might the best way of going about this would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you shouldn't dry hop for too long to you avoid a grassy / plant-y taste. Would this still be the case if I turned the temp down to less than 5c? I don't want to wait longer than I &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to but also don't want a crappy beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best balance to strike between duration / temperature to get a decent effect from the dry hopping recommended in the recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T18:56:46.733" Title="Dry hopping a lager in secondary" Tags="|lager|secondary|dry-hop|lagering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17251" CreationDate="2016-04-12T10:52:29.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can construct a cooler mash tun with very little $ and only lose a degree or 2 per hour temp. The oven seems a bit unorthodox and tedious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T10:52:29.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17510" CreationDate="2016-04-12T11:55:40.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would simply dry hop before I started the lagering process. Do it in the bucket you are in with a sanitized sack.  Then you can pull the sack and proceed with your lager phase.  There might be some hop debris that makes it through the sack but it shouldn't be noticeable or a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T11:55:40.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17508" CreationDate="2016-04-12T12:00:27.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give the bottles a 7-10 days at room temperature to carb.  Then chill one and open it.  If its carbonated the way you want, put the rest in the fridge.  If not let them go another three days and repeat the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for junk in the bottom the fact that the cider is in the bottles now limits your expectations.  If there was junk in the cider and you put it in the bottles its going to be in there.  The small but of yeast activity during carbonation doesn't appreciably increase the amount of yeast sediment in any bottle conditioned beverages.  The longer you let the bottles sit in the cold the more stuff will settle and the tighter the sediment will become.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The same goes for 'maximum alcohol' content too.  That's something only controlled in the fermentor side, not in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T12:00:27.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3598" CreationDate="2016-04-12T12:26:14.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Didn't go wrong with WLP715 Champagne yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular yeast is neutral tasting - as opposed to some estery flavours that most ale yeasts would impart to the end product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you are aiming for a higher ABV, this particular strain has a high attenuation and a quite a high alcohol tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13431" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T12:26:14.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17501" CreationDate="2016-04-12T13:00:10.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Just a note of caution.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottles are not tempered glass. Dropping cool bottles in boiling water may break them or make micro fractures that will fail under carbonation pressure.  Always do temperature changes slowly, submerge bottles and then apply heat once at 180°-200°F remove from heat. Boiling can make too much movement and bang bottles around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find an easy way is chemical wash and rinse and drip dry, put lose foil over each then place them in a cool oven and let them warm up to 200°F-250°F for a few minutes then allow them to cool with oven closed. Then pinch the foil tight, they are now sterile and are ready for bottling. This is a good method if you want to prep a lot of bottles that won't be filled for a couple of days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T13:05:11.400" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T13:05:11.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17510" CreationDate="2016-04-12T13:18:35.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience grassy notes come through when hopping at cold temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to salvage some old IPAs with a cold dry hop and filtering with little success when they are at or below 55° while it kinda works, they have always gotten a grassy note flagged by at least one judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a lager the last real effective time for a dry hop is during your diacetyl rest. The increased tempurature aids the extraction of the hop flavor and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T13:18:35.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11017" CreationDate="2016-04-12T16:51:55.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe Acetobacter will spoil your product only if there is an oxygen present. So, to prevent that, good airlock would be enough. Once fermentation is in progress, there should be enough CO2 to push the air out, even if airlock is poor.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As fermentation slows down, CO2 will be produced in smaller quantities and demands to airlock qualities became higher. I generally fill my airlocks with some sulfite solution to prevent oxygen diffusion and I believe this is enough.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13549" LastEditorUserId="13549" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T18:45:03.893" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T18:45:03.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-12T22:23:14.253" Score="2" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following is a cider recipe I made, slightly tweaking a previous one I had. Just curious if this will produce a drink that is safe to drink and won't explode as a bottle bomb or any other crazy thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you begin make sure everything that will touch your cider is sanitized properly. Not cleaned, sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ingredients: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 gallon pasteurized apple cider (can use juice if no preservatives)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 cups brown sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 packet active dry yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1 big pot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instructions:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heat up a little bit of water to recommended temperature on yeast packet to activate yeast. Keep yeast in there for about 15 minutes or until ready to mix with rest of ingredients. Don’t need a lot of water, a quarter of a cup will do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil 1 cup of water with 1.5-2 cups brown sugar, mix constantly until everything is dissolved. Keep boiling for at least 2-3 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn off heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix syrup and apple juice/cider first so temperature of your sugar mix/syrup is lowered and doesn’t kill yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add yeast to mixture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stir a lot to add oxygen into the mix&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put into gallon jug and add airlock. I personally put a plug on top that has a hole for hose attachment, and then make hose go into a Glass of water that is 75% filled with water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait 1 week&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil .5 cups water with 2 tablespoons brown sugar. Make into syrup like before and wait until a lot of the water has evaporated and you are left with a syrup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Siphon cider out cider into large pot and add the syrup you just made&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put everything into bottles. Grolsch bottles with flip cap work well here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait 1 week and put in fridge. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enjoy a cold one!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13419" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T02:41:55.170" Title="Is this cider recipe I made ok?" Tags="|bottling|cider|bottle-conditioning|recipe|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17518" CreationDate="2016-04-13T01:58:10.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Looks Fine.. almost.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need some yeast nutrients though. And.... 2 cups sugar to 1 gal puts you in Apple wine territory, and will be hard for a bakers yeast to attenuate fully. Also adding a priming sugar will do little with this recipe as the yeast will have died from its ABV tollerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I make cider it's like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Sanitize everthing: fermentor, Apple juice bottles, sugar bags, wine yeast pack etc. Anthing that will touch the Apple juice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) dump it all in the fermentor, and let it go&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) backsweeten and keg &amp;amp; serve cold. &lt;em&gt;backsweetening can be an issue if bottle conditioning, solutions for that have been covered in other answers.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T02:41:55.170" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T02:41:55.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17522" CreationDate="2016-04-13T03:59:55.413" Score="3" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed an amber ale 4 weeks ago and the fermentation has stalled. The OG was 1.060, and a week and a half later the gravity was 1.037. I let it sit another week and a half and the gravity reached 1.034. A week after that the gravity was 1.033. My target FG was 1.016, and it's at room temp (~75°F). I did attempt to rouse the yeast when I measured the gravity of 1.034 by swirling the fermenter, but that seemed to have no affect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen lots of questions about how to restart a stuck fermentation, but I'm fine with how it tastes and want to bottle it soon. My question is given the extra un-fermented sugar indicated by the high gravity, do I need to adjust the amount of priming sugar to achieve a reasonable carbonation level, and to avoid bottle bombs in the worst case? Or should I avoid glass bottles all together due to risk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9656" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T11:48:46.467" Title="Stalled Fermentation to Bottling" Tags="|bottling|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2016-04-13T10:35:21.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I must admit , firstly I am not a scientist, in fact have little qualification. &#xA;However I can attest to the following after many years of brewing both beer and spirits&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plain sugar and dextrose add little to the flavour test&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Constant recommended fermented temperature is crucial to the consistant quality of your wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When temperatures vary above and below the recommended brewing range  it causes some and in some cases all of the the yeast to die. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We all know when something dies or part there of dies it begins to decompose , this has a tendency to create odours and undesirable flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example - eat a fresh piece of meat or one that has started to decompose, trust me you will taste and smell the difference &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for me sugar is sugar there is little discernible difference between brews, if you &quot; ensure the recommended fermenting temperature range is maintained &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers , drink up , and buy a bloody thermostat and put it in a old chest freezer to ferment and prove your beer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers g  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13556" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T10:35:21.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17520" CreationDate="2016-04-13T11:48:46.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its a tough call.  Seems like you've done everything right to ensure the ferment is as complete as its going to be.  I'd be surprised if you had bottling issues later on.  As long as you are satisfied with the flavor that you can drink it I'd say prime a little less than normal to be safe and bottle it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to give it one more try to restart with a fresh and active pitch of yeast.  Something like a saison yeast pitched at high krausen might get it moving again.  The flavor impact may be minimal with a short fermentation from where you are to a finish. If that doesn't sound good, then try an active pitch of American Ale yeast (WLP001).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last thing I'd say is that you may want to double check your hydrometer readings.  If the beer is at 75F you are likely above your calibration point.  Which means the beer is even a little more stalled than you think.  Something to consider before proceeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was me, I'd try the fresh active pitch as a last ditch effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T11:48:46.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17510" CreationDate="2016-04-13T18:56:46.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just stopped by my favorite home brewing store this morning and I also had a question about dry hoping.  I read somewhere that when dry hoping if you use hop bags, they should be sanitized first by boiling them but the gentleman at the brewing store said just dump the hops into the secondary fermenter. I asked him if that would cause a problem when it came time to bottle with all the hop residue and he said just put hop bag on the end of the bottling tube and that should filter it out.  You can beat me up if you want, I'm still learning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13558" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T18:56:46.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17527" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:11:59.993" Score="1" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;While reading an article on home brewing the article said to keep the tails, what does it mean by tails? What are the tails?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13562" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T11:14:53.820" Title="What are the &quot;tails&quot;?" Tags="|fermentation|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17526" CreationDate="2016-04-14T06:11:29.987" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a simple US-05 extract batch. OG was 1.063 and I'm currently on 1.016 where projected FG was 1.012. Gravity has been stable for three days. It's also absolutely delicious so I'd gladly bottle it now, I'm just a bit concerned about the possibility of bottle bombs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the past few days I've tried rousing the yeast by swirling a little and upping the temps to like 21c/70f, but it hasn't done anything to the gravity so it seems to have properly stopped...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I can think of is the fact that I steeped 0.5kg of Crystal for like 20 minutes at a slightly higher temperature than is usual. It got up to like 90c/194f. Could this have caused production of unfermentable sugars which elevated the final FG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13563" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T08:50:17.243" Title="Not quite at FG with an extract batch after two and a half weeks... Safe to bottle?" Tags="|yeast|bottling|bottle-conditioning|extract|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17525" CreationDate="2016-04-14T08:50:17.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;0.004 difference is also 1 Blg difference, to say it in units I know. That's pretty big here. At the same time, it's also pretty possible your fermentation has finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, I would try fast fermentation test. Take generous amount of baker's yeast, fresh. Like, 1/5 cup. Fill the rest of cup with your beer, stir, put in dry warm place and wait a day or two. Then decant it from yeast and see if gravity has changed. If yes, then your beer has stalled fermentation and you should try to restart it. If no, it is as fermented as it is going to be. Warning: only works reliable under about 7% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the things you have tried, I would assume it is as finished as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for steeping, raising temperature should not change fermentability much. It's not mashing. Proportions of sugars are set in the malting house. Light crystal have pretty much of fermentables, dark crystal next to none. Only at short-time steep it matters, because it speeds up sugar extraction. Both fermentables and unfermentables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T08:50:17.243" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17524" CreationDate="2016-04-14T11:14:53.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tails or Tailings&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;is what's left of a material after it has been processes and something more valuable has been removed. Though a term used in mining more than homebrewing.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In brewing this will refer to making use of...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Second runnings from a mash, parti-gyle. Great for a second a batch of a smaller beer or for yeast starter wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Making use of spent grain for baking or compost&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Yeast trub. The gunk on the bottom of the fermentor. This is mostly yeast, hops, etc. Use this to grow more yeast, or even pitch a seconds batch of wort right on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T11:14:53.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17790" CreationDate="2016-04-14T12:56:54.437" Score="1" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to try flavoring my kombucha. I have heard you can add herbs like mint after fermentation, before botteling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then I would have the leafs in by bottles, right? Or do I have to take them out after some time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about putting the mint into my fresh tea before fermentation? Doesn't it harm the SCOBY?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13564" LastEditorUserId="13564" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T13:56:24.183" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T19:04:43.430" Title="Flavoring Kombucha with herbs" Tags="|flavoring|kombucha|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T13:24:57.457" Score="0" ViewCount="2912" Body="&lt;p&gt;While brewing Kombucha sugar is transformed to carbon dioxide, alcohol, acid, etc. But what does that mean to the calories? Is there less? How much less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tea: 25 ltr&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sugar: 1000 grm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;temperature: 18°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;duration: 4 days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you tell how much calories I have in my Kombucha?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope for an answer like: &quot;Calories go down by 20% to 30%&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13564" LastEditorUserId="13564" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T23:32:15.467" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T19:07:36.657" Title="Does Kombucha lose calories while fermenting?" Tags="|fermentation|kombucha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17528" CreationDate="2016-04-14T13:51:53.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like anything else in life unless you want to drink and serve/drink the final product with the leaves in there pull them out once you've gotten the flavor profile you want before bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T13:51:53.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17532" CreationDate="2016-04-14T14:53:07.273" Score="4" ViewCount="8147" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Title sayes,&#xA;Pretty new to the whole home brewing scene and I haven't really progressed past the kits yet.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I've followed the instructions perfectly and I know I've been above careful when it comes to sanitizing,  Thing is my bottled cider just has this eggy smell.  I keep getting told this will go away but its been in the bottle now for about 5 months and it doesn't seem like its getting any better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(FYI its a Mixed Berry's Cider)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12551" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T20:32:33.913" Title="Cider Kit has made a really bad eggy smell. Will this go away?" Tags="|cider|aroma|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17531" CreationDate="2016-04-14T15:05:24.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some yeast strains give sulfur smell during fermentation. That's perfectly normal. If it's in the air, it's no longer in your brew! The fact you can smell it so strongly indicates it is, literally, going away now. It comes from metabolism of sulfur amino-acids. Sooner they are degenerated and sulfur is released, the less chance it'll get released in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's already in the bottles, then it either is infection, or you bottled too soon. If that's the former, sorry, nothing you can do. If later, you can try to pour it back to fermentation vessel, add fresh yeast and give it more time. It won't get better in closed bottles, because sulfur gases have no way to escape them. Airlock or blowoff tube will work all right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it'll still smell like that after two weeks, then you will have a problem. But right now it's nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T15:15:22.887" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T15:15:22.887" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7537" CreationDate="2016-04-14T18:22:19.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree quiet means low traffic area.  I found my cat playing with the airlock because of the bubbles so I think if it's in a spot where little one or animals can't move it around is the best situation.  I also noticed many people ferment in garages which I thought would be too loud considering cars in and out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13565" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T18:22:19.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17541" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:17:28.723" Score="2" ViewCount="1821" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have beer that won't clear itself. Gelatin and isinglass is not vegan. Activated charcoal can create off-flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diatomaceous_earth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;diatomaceous earth&lt;/a&gt; be used? Probably, like activated charcoal, I would need pretty much of it, and stir it well, if gently, for it to absorb haze. In the other hand, it's mostly silica. Flavorless and tasteless. Or am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2023-06-17T18:52:36.380" Title="Can diatomaceous earth be used as fining agent, but not filter?" Tags="|finings|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7537" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:39:40.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Funnily enough my primary fermentation vessel is the same room as my drumkit and a bunch of guitar amplifiers and I practice pretty much daily. I had no idea that &quot;quiet&quot; was a rule and as far as I can tell there's been no effect on beer production. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13563" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T21:39:40.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17529" CreationDate="2016-04-15T02:48:27.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well in your specific kombucha I won’t be able to tell you but I can give you some math that should help you figure it out and should be able to be used by any brewer to figure out the caloric effect of fermentation on your brews.&#xA;So just to hit you with the math right now and ill break it down later the equation to figure out the change in calories caused by fermentation you will use the equation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG = Original Gravity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG = Final Gravity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V = Volume of ferment in ml&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Version for Sucrose fermentable used by OP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;((((-(OG - FG) * 131.25*0.789*(V /100))/46.07)/4) *342.3*4) +(((OG - FG) *131.25*0.789*(V /100)) *7)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Version for maltose fermentable in beer (treats Maltose as glucose for math purposes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;((((-(OG - FG) * 131.25* 0.789*(V/100))/46.07)/2) *180.16*4) +(((OG - FG) * 131.25* 0.789*(V/100)) *7)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you replace the variables with your values and paste it into &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wolframalpha.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.wolframalpha.com&lt;/a&gt; it will output the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to break down what is going on here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(OG - FG) * 131.25 = ABV – this is the equation for estimating the ABV of your brew using original and final gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV*0.789 = ABW – this changed the ABV into ABW which is a weight as opposed to volume measurement of the alcohol in your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABW*(V /100) – this is the total grams of alcohol in your brew – I’ll refer to this as AT from here on out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AT/46.07=Moles of Alcohol – this converts the grams of alcohol into moles of alcohol which is a count of the number of molecules of alcohol in your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moles of alcohol/4=Moles of Sucrose Fermented – the process of fermenting sucrose (which you used) creates 4 molecules of alcohol for each molecule of sucrose fermented so by dividing by 4 we get the number of sucrose molecules fermented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moles of Sucrose Fermented*342.3*4 = calories of sucrose fermented- by taking the moles of sucrose and multiplying by the molar weight we change the moles of sucrose into grams of sugar then multiply those my calories per gram we get the total amount of calories that those sugar molecules possessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for the second half this will be quick I promise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will notice that the other half looks very similar that is because it is just calculating the total weight of alcohol in the brew and multiplying that by the calorie content on alcohol per gram giving us the calorie content of the alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last part bringing it all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So once we do all this math we get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(- calorie content of sugar that was fermented) + (calorie content of new alcohol) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gives us the total change in calories created by fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13445" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T02:48:27.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17486" CreationDate="2016-04-15T16:55:17.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your dry yeast will be fine. The reason your kit was in the refrigerator was to preserve the hops. You don't need (or want) to chill your yeast before you use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T16:55:17.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17534" CreationDate="2016-04-15T19:21:37.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Make sure it's food grade if you try it&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swimming pool filter DE has been fired and is very different and dangerous if enhailed or ingested being similar to asbestos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I'm not sure if it would fine much as it drops, but should make a filter perform better. I've considered mixing in a batch to disperse and then filter using a cartridge water filter, but haven't done it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T19:21:37.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17531" CreationDate="2016-04-15T19:35:46.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sulphur needs to gas off, it's usually from a slow fermentation that wasn't vigorous enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's already attenuated there's a couple solutions. But both require putting the bottled cider back into a fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) boost it up as a douple cider or Apple wine 4lb cane sugar to 5gal will give it +.040 points, then you can pitch a wine yeast to get it going again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Use C02 to gas it off. Either use a hose to the bottom of the fermentor and give it slow c02 to simulate the c02 in a fermentation, or keg and force carbonate the release c02 by shaking and releasing the valve. Do either until no sulfur is smelled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T19:35:46.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17534" CreationDate="2016-04-15T20:44:25.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;the only thing i can really find on it is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Sparkalloid is a wine fining combining a polysaccharide sugar with&#xA;  diatomaceous earth. It carries a strong positive charge, working&#xA;  similarly to isinglass or gelatin to allow particles to precipitate&#xA;  (clump and sink) better before filtering. It’s not ideal for&#xA;  unfiltered beer but has been reported as an excellent fining agent for&#xA;  mead.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/bock/item/944-just-fine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;byo.com/bock/item/944-just-fine&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;but this is what sparkalloid is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sparkolloid is a proprietary product made fro m alginic acid extracted&#xA;  from marine brown algae. Alginic acids are polymeric and positively&#xA;  charged;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uark.edu/depts/ifse/grapeprog/articles/nmc14wg.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.uark.edu/depts/ifse/grapeprog/articles/nmc14wg.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;its not straight diatomaceous earth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot; Diatomaceous Earth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Diatomaceous earth (DE) is used to clarify wines and make them appear&#xA;  clear. They are then ready for even finer filtration, like the&#xA;  pre-bottling filtration process. Although DE is not specifically&#xA;  regarded as a fining agent, it does have a specific use in&#xA;  clarification and filtration. &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wineturtle.com/fining-wine-clarification-agents/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wineturtle.com/fining-wine-clarification-agents/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wineturtle.com/fining-wine-clarification-agents/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;enter link description here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I havent been able to really find to much info on using DE, but from many sources, for fining for clarity common agents used are    gelatine, casein, isinglass, Sparkolloid, Chitin, bentonite &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brsquared.org/wine/Articles/fining.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brsquared.org/wine/Articles/fining.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be interested in making a few 1 gal batches and test it out to see if it could be used to clarify, but i have no idea where to get food grade DE from around me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T21:18:22.613" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T21:18:22.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17529" CreationDate="2016-04-16T14:39:14.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Matter cannot be created nor destroyed&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So really the only calorie loss during fermentation is that in which the yeast burn and what is concentrated from the loss of c02 escaping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethanol has 6.9 calories per gram&#xA;Sugar has 4 calories per gram&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a calculator &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://realbeer.com/spencer/attenuation.html#calories&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://realbeer.com/spencer/attenuation.html#calories&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play with the numbers for calories to simulate fermented and unfermented , you'll notice that don't change much in fact there is about 5% more calories after fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because calories are calculated by actually burning the test matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said alcohol is digested but takes more energy to digest than sugar since its converted to sugar first but still has a positive net.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So all in all, pre and post fermentation has little change in actual calories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It seems acetobacter in SCOBY could potentially consume most of the calories. I've not found any formulas to calculate calorie loss from acetobacter. But 5 grams of red wine vinegar has only 1 calorie, 5 grams of red wine has about 4 calories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T19:07:36.657" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T19:07:36.657" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-17T01:45:38.750" Score="2" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a recipe for a false cider that requires the addition of lemon juice after secondary fermentation prior to bottling/kegging.  I've done this before in the bottle with good success but I'm wondering -- &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;should I be concerned about the corrosion potential of citric acid against the stainless steel of the keg?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm expecting to use the juice from about 4-5 lemons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Basic Understanding&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stainless steel is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.morebeer.com/brewingtechniques/library/backissues/issue2.4/millspaw.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;not immune from corrosion&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Corrosion and stainless steel? It's stainless, so it should be free from the risk of rust, pitting, and wear, right? Wrong. Although the 300-series stainless steels used in brewing equipment are normally highly resistant to corrosion, their resitance can be compromised in several ways. For example, some of the cleaning and sanitization techniques commonly used with glass and plastic are hazardous to stainless steel, and you can wreck your stainless equipment if you use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some metals such as aluminum &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1179/174327807X214770?journalCode=ycst20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;actually benefit&lt;/a&gt; from interaction with citric acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acids are often used to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=28&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;passivate stainless steel&lt;/a&gt; in low concentrations.  Passivation is the process by which the clean surface builds up an oxide layer which protects it to corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Citric acid can be used for cleaning &amp;amp; passivating stainless steels, as an alternative to nitric acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The typical acidity range of beer and cider is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Food-Industry/Beer-corrosion.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;safe for stainless&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Beer has a pH of about 4 when fresh, but this can drop to 3.5 or below if the beer is exposed to oxygen such that it sours, as is inevitable in a traditional cask after dispense. Fresh ciders may have a pH as low as 3.3 and, when oxidized, even below 3. Stainless steel is generally impervious to these levels of acidity, but the oxide layer with which aluminum alloys protect themselves from corrosion is attacked by any pH less than about 4 or over about 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my findings I'm convinced that short-term contact is completely fine if not even beneficial but I'm curious about the effect of long-term contact of high citric acid concentrations against stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3245" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T02:12:04.003" Title="Keg corrosion potential of lemon juice adjunct" Tags="|keg|corny-keg|acidity|stainless|acidic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17543" CreationDate="2016-04-17T02:12:04.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your corney keg will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue of corrosion comes into play if there are unpassified areas, usually from cleaning with an abrasive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can repassify to restore the oxide layer with a mild acid like starsan or bar keepers friend. Soak and let air dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T02:12:04.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-17T10:15:16.150" Score="1" ViewCount="1251" Body="&lt;p&gt;apologies for the somewhat newbie question (I can't hide it, this is my first batch and I'm hoping to get it right)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have started the Bulldog Evil Dog double IPA kit and although I am still some way off bottling, I would like to get all my queries answered before bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main lack of knowledge is in priming (I hope I'm using this term correctly) the instructions with the brewing kit suggest 1 carbonation drop or 1 teaspoon of sugar per 500 ml of product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all are there any great differences in these two? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second - if I were to use sugar, is this just your standard off the shelf granulated white sugar? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third - should this be added in bulk to the entire batch before bottling and mixed thoroughly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth - if yes to above, should I then bottle straight away or should that be left to prime for a while longer in the fermenter? I believe the kit mentions this at the bottling stage but wanted to get others experiences!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note I don't have a secondary fermenter! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once again apologies for the newbie questions! Just want to stay this right and tasting great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&#xA;Gary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13569" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T16:45:24.060" Title="How to prime and bottle?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|sugar|priming|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-17T12:29:59.623" Score="1" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I forgot to measure how much wort I had preboil. I did take a gravity reading preboil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I deduce preboil volume with post boil volume and pre &amp;amp; post boil gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T16:47:34.287" Title="Calculate preboil volume" Tags="|calculations|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17545" CreationDate="2016-04-17T12:38:37.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gratz on your first brew!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When bottle conditioning you want to make sure you have an even mix of suspended yeast and &lt;em&gt;priming&lt;/em&gt; sugar. Having a secondary vessel makes this easier usually a bottling bucket is preferred. &lt;em&gt;Bottle conditioning is simply feeding the yeast a little more to get some fermentation in the bottle to produce carbonation.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation drops are simply a dosed amount of sugar for one 12oz bottle, use two drops for 22oz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cane sugar (table sugar) can be used but corn sugar is preferred, as it's a simpler form of sugar and is easier for tired yeast to consume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer needs to be bottled right after priming sugar is added. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a vessel to mix everything into you can dose each bottle. Carb drops make this easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have cold crashed the beer or it is brilliantly clear when bottling, thier may not be enough suspened yeast. You can use an eye dropper to put one drop of the yeast trub in each bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once bottled store at 70-75°F for two weeks before refridgerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T12:38:37.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17546" CreationDate="2016-04-17T13:01:37.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you know your exact boil of rate you can calculate it from pre boil gravity (providing the sample was well mixed), OG, and post boil volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However a record of pre boil volume is really only useful to determining boil off rate and mash effciency. Which are useful numbers to have for future batches but play little role in your current beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your OG and post fermentation volume will give you the more useful number for getting your &lt;em&gt;brewhouse efffeciency&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easier way to get your pre boil volume rather than doing the math estimating boil off would be to fill your kettle with your known post boil volume and then record the volume it takes to get to the level of Wort you had before you started your boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T13:01:37.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17546" CreationDate="2016-04-17T17:40:27.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An answer offered from another forum:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be derived as a function of the difference in gravity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Pre boil Volume  = Post Boil Volume * (Post Gravity Points / Pre Gravity Point)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this instance, pre gravity is 1.021, post is 1.030. Post boil volume is 23.7 litres&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Pre Boil Volume = 23.7 * (30 / 21)&#xA;&#xA;Pre Boil Volume = 33.9 litres&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T16:47:34.287" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T16:47:34.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-17T20:27:47.760" Score="1" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last brew I calculated by brewhouse efficiency to be 63%. Not great, but I dialled this into BeerSmith and hoped my next brew would at least be predictable, even if I was not getting the most out of the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed a low ABV beer for my wife. BeerSmith calculated that I would hit 1.026, I managed 1.027&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I have is that when I post these numbers into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/brewhouse-efficiency/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/brewhouse-efficiency/&lt;/a&gt; along with my grain bill, it calculates my efficiency as a whopping 73%!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sd9qJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sd9qJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand how I can be so close to BeerSmiths predicted numbers, but so far above an the efficiency I have dialled into BeerSmith for my own gear!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastEditorUserId="103" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T14:19:33.707" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T23:08:51.230" Title="Efficiency discrepancy" Tags="|efficiency|software|beersmith|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17550" CreationDate="2016-04-17T21:08:19.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;... so far above an efficiency that BeerSmith is aware of&quot;&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not exactly sure what you mean by this, I'm positive BeerSmith is &lt;em&gt;aware&lt;/em&gt; of efficiencies above 73%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very common to get higher efficiency on low-alcohol beers with smaller mashes since you're running proportionally more sparge water through each unit of volume of the mash bed, giving more opportunity for trapped extract to be leached out and recovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also not uncommon to see a fluctuation of ~5% efficiency between batches of the same beer, stemming from small differences in equipment setup and process. Do you have any other records of your efficiency or are these the first ones? It could just be the combination of a smaller mash coupled with a slightly more effective runoff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T21:08:19.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17550" CreationDate="2016-04-17T21:26:47.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do BIAB and my efficiency has varied around 70% from 65% to 75%.  I've found that something as simple as stirring my mash 3 times in the 60 minute rest and not stirring it can affect that number greatly.  You're outside of the realms of common efficiencies in what you're doing.  Certainly I know of people using Beersmith who have efficiencies into the 80's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12176" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T21:26:47.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7519" CreationDate="2016-04-18T15:24:03.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;my experience has been that 3-5 days total is plenty for dry hopping, post fermentation and as close to kegging/bottling as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13348" LastEditorUserId="13348" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T12:40:18.020" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T12:40:18.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17550" CreationDate="2016-04-18T18:41:11.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mash efficiency calculators are just an estimate based on an average yield on a specific grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a really wide range of results because they assume a perfect mash, with ideal crush, ph, water grain ratio, lauter technic etc. Once your brewhouse effeciency % is determined if those variables change your % will change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do it right they really need to factor mash thickness, ph, lauter details but I've not seen a calc tackle this yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More importantly grain harvests have different potentials*&lt;/strong&gt; You need to update the potentials for each grain from the data sheet from your specific grain lots provided by the maltser. But this information is usually lost unless you buy by the bulk sack 50-55lb to get the lot # and look it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash ph plays such a big role in effeciency, your effeciency can be drastically different from batch to batch just from inconsistency in filtered tap water. Just one of the reasons to build water profiles from RO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T18:41:11.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-18T21:44:40.993" Score="0" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Oatmeal Stout and want to add&#xA;Butterscotch flavoring extract.  I researched quite and found a butterscotch extract that is gluten free and sugar free.  Is there a formula available for figuring out how much extract to use for 5 gallons of beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13575" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T03:58:19.160" Title="Making a butterscotch oatmeal stout" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17555" CreationDate="2016-04-19T03:58:19.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no formula per se, but I would start, right before bottling, pour a measured amount. and use a syringe to measure out extract, and start with very little and add it in. taste, then decide to add more or less. and then scale it up by five gallons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;each extract, is different, and you cant really come up with formula, since each one will be more or less depending on flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T03:58:19.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17550" CreationDate="2016-04-19T19:46:24.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gauging efficiency with 100% accuracy is not something you can really do from one brew to the next. You should certainly pay attention to it, and make small adjustments accordingly. Over time, you'll be able to accurately predict efficiency with your system for a specific recipe. Even then, there are some variables you don't have as much control over; water quality, ambient temperatures, humidity, etc. Even with the same recipe, sourced from the same ingredients, you can have some variance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I started assuming the standard 70% and for the most part, my brews were within acceptable differences, but because I keep meticulous records, I now know that I can reliably hit about 74% for most standard beers, ~70% for 50% wheat or very strong beers and 78% for session beers. I use kind of a goofy method to determine mash thickness, which plays a significant part, but I generally keep it between 1.5 and 2.0 qt/lb. When I create or modify a recipe for my system, I take that all that into account and can generally predict fairly closely the anticipated efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T19:46:24.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17646" CreationDate="2016-04-19T20:18:12.220" Score="3" ViewCount="3719" Body="&lt;p&gt;========================&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 lbs. Forest Honey&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 lbs. Blueberries&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;water to 6 gallons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 grams of D-47&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 tsp. Fermaid K + DAP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;========================&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the initial vigorous fermentation, I opened my primary to discover the most horrible sulfur smell. I read online how to fix the problem by using copper and oxygenating the must, but never really found any info on what exactly happened. Never happened before or since. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T15:33:53.283" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T10:22:02.763" Title="Sulfur Smell from Fermentor" Tags="|wine|mead|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17558" CreationDate="2016-04-19T23:06:05.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some yeast strains give sulfur smell during fermentation. That's perfectly normal. If it's in the air, it's no longer in your brew! The fact you can smell it so strongly indicates it is, literally, going away now. It comes from metabolism of sulfur amino-acids. Sooner they are degenerated and sulfur is released, the less chance it'll get released in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't bother trying to correct it, unless it's there after two, three weeks of fermentation. No need to. Not yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if (small chance) that's infection, correction is impossible. But again, that you can know in few weeks. I wouldn't be scared of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T23:06:05.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17550" CreationDate="2016-04-19T23:08:51.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that the issue is how both are calculated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/brewhouse-efficiency/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/brewhouse-efficiency/&lt;/a&gt; is not accounting for losses in your equipment while beersmith is accounting for losses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if you took out the losses in beersmith, you would get the same efficiency as brewersfriend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T23:08:51.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17501" CreationDate="2016-04-20T00:12:06.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing wrong with most suggestions here, but my typical method was clean with B-Brite (Oxyclean also works - look for cleaners with sodium percarbonate) after drinking and then storing and then sanitizing just before filling.  Sanitizing can be how you wish, boiling with care is okay, but you don't need multiple sanitary treatments. Make sure you're clean as can be (no visible grime/dirt/glue/compounds) and then sanitation takes care of the rest. I've also heard of homebrewers baking clean bottles in the oven at low-ish temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this method works especially well for turning commercial bottles into homebrew bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T00:12:06.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17545" CreationDate="2016-04-20T00:37:39.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you can mess up priming that easily as long as you don't massively over-prime. I think standard rule of thumb is 3/4 cup of corn sugar or 2/3 cup of cane sugar per 5 gallon batch. But those aren't perfect equivalents; if you use cane sugar, use about 90-95% of what you would use for corn sugar. Personally I tend to carbonate with closer to 2/3 of a cup of corn sugar for ales, for a gentle chill carbonation, so I'd use even less cane sugar. You could even use honey, I think at 70-75% the quantity of corn sugar you'd typically use. Point is, you probably can't mess stuff up disastrously unless you totally ignore consequences. :-D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I always avoided droppers because the quantity of a drop is a bit subjective. I suggest boiling your sugar, whichever you choose, in a cup of water.  Pour the still-hot water into a bottling bucket and siphon your beer over it.  It will mix into the beer fairly evenly. Bottle, prime for a few weeks at room temperature, chill, and drink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T00:37:39.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17558" CreationDate="2016-04-20T15:08:44.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a little carried away here, so here's a quick summary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/strong&gt; Your yeast was probably either A) nutrient starved, B) Fermenting at too high of a temperature, or C) a combination of both. Regardless of your temperature control situation, I think A (nutrition) is the most likely cuplrit here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's true that some yeast strains are more prone to SO2 production, this &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be avoided altogether with proper nutrient additions and temperature control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, when your mead starts smelling sulfury, try adding more nutrients. There are several threads regarding this on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gotmead.com/forum/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GotMead&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/forumdisplay.php?f=30&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HomebrewTalk&lt;/a&gt;. This is also hinted at in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/meadfaults.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BJCP's list of mead faults&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Characteristic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sulfury Hydrogen sulfide, sulfur dioxide. Rotten eggs, burning matches, and other sulfur-based aromas and flavors. Generally unpleasant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Solutions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provide sufficient nitrogen-based nutrients. Check for infection. Check water for excessive sulfates. Check yeast health. Check for yeast autolysis (mead left on yeast too long at warm temperatures). Try another yeast strain. Cut back on sulfite additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are more interested in &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; I think nutrition is likely the culprit here, I've included a detailed breakdown below. If not at least remember this: If you followed the directions for the number of tsp per gallon on the Fermaid K + DAP, those are likely meant for &lt;em&gt;wine&lt;/em&gt;, which already has a large amount of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_amino_nitrogen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;free amino nitrogen&lt;/a&gt; in the must itself. Since honey is pretty nutrient deficient, it will need way more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is your fermentation temperature. D47 is a pretty finicky yeast, and maxes out at 68 F (20 C) before it starts throwing crazy off flavors and smells. Remember, that's &lt;em&gt;fermentation&lt;/em&gt; temperature, not ambient. Yeast metabolism throws off a lot of heat, so once you start hitting the 5 - 7 gallon range, internal temperature can become an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind though, the sulfur &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; probably age out, or you can splash rack it or try the copper trick. I've heard you can either rack through a copper scouring pad or throw either said pad or a length of sanitized copper tubing into your carboy for a week or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Nutrient Breakdown&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of tools we can use to determine if you were under your recommended &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yeast_assimilable_nitrogen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YAN&lt;/a&gt; for your batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gotmead.com/blog/the-mead-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GotMead Mead Calculator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meadmakr.com/batch-buildr/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The MeadMakr BatchBuildr&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/11pW-dC91OupCYKX-zld73ckg9ximXwxbmpLFOqv6JEk/edit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YAN calculation spreadsheet from /u/balathustrius on reddit's /r/mead (link in article)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meadmakr.com/advanced-sna-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The MeadMakr Advanced Nutrient Calculator (based on the linked reddit spreadsheet and atricle)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some other calculators out there, but for this, I'm just going to keep it simple and use the first two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gotmead.com/blog/the-mead-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GotMead mead calculator&lt;/a&gt;, we can estimate that your 20 lbs of honey + 12 lbs of blueberries would hit an SG of around 1.128. Assuming your D47 pushed all the way to its 14% tolerance, that would leave us around 1.021 as a final gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if we head over to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meadmakr.com/batch-buildr/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MeadMakr Batch Builder&lt;/a&gt;, you can adjust the sliders to match your approximate values from the mead calculator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Batch Volume:     6 gallons&#xA;Yeast ABV:        14%&#xA;Sweetness:        1.02&#xA;Nutrient Regime:  Fermaid K/DAP&#xA;&#xA;Batch Specs&#xA;Target OG:      1.124&#xA;Starting Brix:  29&#xA;YAN Provided:   250&#xA;&#xA;Honey Needed:             21.3lbs&#xA;Dry Yeast Minimum Weight: 12g&#xA;# Dry Yeast Packet(s):    3 (15g yeast)&#xA;Go-ferm:                  18.75g&#xA;Fermaid K:                11.4g&#xA;DAP:                      21.6g&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see in that calculation, to achieve 250 ppm YAN, you would need 11.4g Fermaid K and 21.6g DAP &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you were using Go-Ferm and pitching at a higher rate (we'll ignore those parts right now to keep it simple). If we follow the approximations from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gotmead.com/forum/showthread.php/10068-Weight-approx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gotmead.com/forum/showthread.php/20926-DAP-Fermaid-SNA-question&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; on GotMead, then that would be 2.85 tsp Fermaid K + 5.4 tsp DAP, for a total of 8.25. This is more a little more than &lt;em&gt;double&lt;/em&gt; the amounts used in your particular batch. Sure, your blueberries definitely added some FAN, but there's no way it was enough to make up the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I was just using one of the built-in calculations, but if you wanted, you can head over the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meadmakr.com/advanced-sna-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The MeadMakr Advanced Nutrient Calculator&lt;/a&gt; and input your ratio of Fermaid K:DAP. Here's an example input for a 2:1 Fermaid K:DAP ratio:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Total ppm YAN:           250&#xA;Must Volume (Gal):       6 &#xA;Fermaid O Effectiveness: 0&#xA;Enforce Limits:          Unchecked&#xA;Configure limits:        Unchecked&#xA;&#xA;DAP:       33.33&#xA;Fermaid K: 66.67&#xA;Fermaid O: 0&#xA;&#xA;Output total g to add&#xA;  DAP:       9.01  (~2.25 tsp)&#xA;  Fermaid K: 37.86 (~9.47 tsp)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, if you are following a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/improve-mead-staggered-nutrient-additions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;staggered nutrient regimen&lt;/a&gt;, those are total amounts per batch, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; per addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T13:05:56.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-20T17:29:27.757" Score="0" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am some way into my first brew and I'm having ideas above my position!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've decided that if possible I would like to construct the ingredients for my next batch on my own. Any tips on how to get these results would be greatly appreciated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IPA &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABV 7.5 - 10%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hops which give a fruity or floral flavour, I'm open to double so any combinations would be great!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13569" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T19:12:27.143" Title="Has anyone got an IPA recipe using extract but not in a kit?" Tags="|recipe|ipa|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="565" CreationDate="2016-04-20T19:52:01.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ingredients&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 lbs dark lme&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lb lactose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lb amber dme&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 oz root beer extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz haulertau hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 gallons water &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 grams splenda&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 packet safe ale us05&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3/4 cup corn sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring 2.5 galons water to the boil &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stir in the liquid malt &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return to the boil &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the hot break add hops and amber dme&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil for 60 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15 before flame out add the lactose (Stir constantly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At 60 min chill the wort to 100 degrees F as fast as possible &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add wort to fermenter &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top up with water to 5 gallons &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch the yeast at 78 degrees F &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave for 2 weeks in primary &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack to clean carboy &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add root beer extract and splenda &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top up to 5 gallon mark again &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave for another 2 weeks &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prime the batch with 3/4 cup corn sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle or keg &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave for another 2 weeks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool in the fridge for at least 3 days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13581" LastEditorUserId="3056" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T13:26:46.870" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T13:26:46.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17564" CreationDate="2016-04-20T20:32:35.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Recipator&lt;/a&gt; for estimating gravity, IBUs, and color. This tool provides general ranges for various styles, including IPAs. You should notice the style guidelines for IPA top out at about 7.5% ABV. If you want something a little stronger you'll need to add some extra fermentables and I'd recommend boosting the IBUs in the same proportion. (I.e., if you bump your OG up to 1.080-1.090, you'll also want to bump IBUs to 70-75 or so.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BYO has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/resources/hops&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;great hops guide&lt;/a&gt; for picking varieties appropriate styles. If the hop you pick isn't available on Recipator, no worries, just pick any hop in Recipator plug in the hop's AA rating into the form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend Ray Daniels' book, &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewerspublications.com/books/designing-great-beers-the-ultimate-guide-to-brewing-classic-beer-styles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Designing Great Beers&lt;/a&gt;.&quot; It provides some excellent information about which grains and hops are commonly used in a wide variety of beer styles for both commercial and homebrew recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T20:32:35.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17569" CreationDate="2016-04-20T20:50:05.453" Score="1" ViewCount="3351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to produce high gravity strong Trappist like beer.&#xA;Wyeast 3787 seems to be a good choice, but I'm looking for a dry yeast alternative. Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll make a starter before pitching if required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13582" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T11:51:15.230" Title="What would be a good dry yeast equivalent to Wyeast 3787?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17254" CreationDate="2016-04-21T01:21:36.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bubbles are a good thing slow or rapid just keep in a dark room temperature between 62-72 you should be fine..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13334" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T01:21:36.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17567" CreationDate="2016-04-21T05:37:08.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This one might be an option for you. I have not used it myself, but read in various forums that it is a good option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Safbrew-S-33-en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Safbrew-S-33-en.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13099" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T05:37:08.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T06:57:18.207" Score="0" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just want some advice on when to dry hop for this. I like my beers to be hoppy as hell!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stage I'm at;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-the brew has been going for 6 days (hydrometer reading of 1.03 (initial probably 1.065, newbie move, forgot to take it!))&#xA;-'rapid' fermentation appears to have ceased (no airlock activity) 2 days ago&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, is loss of gravity linear? ie. As I've lost about 60% of all I'll lose does this mean fermentation is 60% done time wise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many more days before I dry hop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I throw the hops 'teabags' straight in the FV or shall I soak them first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&#xA;Gary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13569" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T07:56:26.083" Title="When to dry hop for Bulldog Evil Dog?" Tags="|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17570" CreationDate="2016-04-21T07:56:26.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loss of gravity is &lt;strong&gt;not linear&lt;/strong&gt;. It is fastest at first. For really big beers it may take month or two. Also, it depends on temperature, initial availability of nutrients and oxygen, pitch size and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 1.065 OG ≈ 16°Blg, I would left it alone for two weeks and don't even bother measuring anything during that time. 1.030 OG ≈ 7.5°Blg is too far from finished to think about dry hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After two weeks I would expect it to be between 1.01 and 1.02 (3 to 5°Blg). Dry hopping gives best results if hops spend between 4 days and a week in brew. Sources vary. My personal experience tends to be about 5 days, but feel free to experiment, and remember that anything in this range will be OK. It's common way to bottle when gravity do not change for three consecutive days. But this happens, more often than not, in the middle of the week. So when you know it's safe to bottle, just schedule it in a way that would give you 4 or 5 (or more if you wish) days. Dry hop then, and bottle during weekend. One more week in fermentation bucket would not hurt your beer in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a way to add them - soaking makes little sense. Unless it's in boiling water, then it may help to kill germs. Personally I always threw hop pellets dry straight into fermenter and it never caused any issues. But can't say the same for other hops. And of course it is in no way proof that it's safe for you. &lt;strong&gt;I&lt;/strong&gt; wouldn't bother, but that's &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; brew. If you soak it in boiling water, use as little water as feasible and then add both hops and water used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T07:56:26.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1936" CreationDate="2016-04-21T09:33:14.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also wants to share my experience with this device (Lauter grant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually I am chemical engineer and working in brewery designing company.&#xA;Advantages of Lauter grant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It acts as buffer tank between lauter tun and wort kettle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It gives positive suction to transfer pump (full flow)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Main advantage of later grant is: it avoid choking bed.&#xA;as it avoid choking of bed, brewer will get maximum clear extract in less time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One can easily check gravity at any time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maximum extract with high gravity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It have some minor disadvantages like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It need cleaning, Which is some what difficult operation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;installing lauter grant may leads to increase in  head lags. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can install lauter grant between lauter ton and wort kettle, it should install before lauter tun recirculation line. Pump should have VFD (variable frequency drive) so that it can run at various RPM, so that we can control the transfer flow.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13586" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T08:50:28.987" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T08:50:28.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17625" CreationDate="2016-04-21T15:14:12.533" Score="2" ViewCount="8385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about brewing an IPA.&#xA;My doubt is about &quot;short dry hopping&quot;  vs &quot;length dry hopping&quot; I am thinking to go for 2 days minimum and 7 days maximum.&#xA;I want to know your opinions and experiences about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A link with a experiment about that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/10/26/dry-hop-length-long-vs-short-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2015/10/26/dry-hop-length-long-vs-short-exbeeriment-results/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13588" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T07:54:15.503" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T07:54:15.503" Title="How much time to dry hop and why?" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|ipa|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T17:16:54.447" Score="5" ViewCount="709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently own a dual regulator and use two kegs with it. I want to expand to four kegs can therefore face two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purchase a quad regulator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a splitter to each of the outputs on the dual regulator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are all the negatives involved in using a splitter instead of a dual/quad/multi regulator? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, when using a splitter, both kegs must have the same level of carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it take longer to carbonate two kegs that are being carbonated via a splitter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T13:28:30.857" Title="Kegs - Why use a dual regulator instead of a splitter?" Tags="|kegging|keg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17574" CreationDate="2016-04-21T18:07:24.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar setup: 4 kegs/taps, one dual regulator with a T to split the gas lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The positives/negatives are either obvious (cost of 4 regulators, having 4 independent controls vs. 2) or as you describe. One other negative is that pressure differences in the head space of (overfilled) kegs make it possible to suck liquid into the gas lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It won't take any longer to carbonate via split lines vs. separate regulators. All that matters is the pressure/temperature, and the gas side can easily supply 2 kegs at once. Think about how easy it is to &lt;em&gt;overcarbonate&lt;/em&gt; kegs with the wrong pressure setting, for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T18:07:24.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17574" CreationDate="2016-04-21T18:53:53.550" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only need multiple line regulators if you want different beers at different pressures.   I think 90+% of people just dispense their beers at the same pressure. Hence, they only use one regulator. If having a very bubbly Belgian Tripel and a softly carbonated English Mild on draft side is something you MUST have then two different line regulators becomes important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T18:53:53.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17573" CreationDate="2016-04-21T19:19:46.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want your beer to be hoppy-fresh... Unfortunately, hoppy profile fades away with time. I'm not sure at what rate, but trust me, there is a difference in freshly brewed IPA (brewery fresh) vs the 1 or 2 month old. If you save couple of bottles for the future, you can compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, usually when you look at the recipes, it says to dry-hop it in last 5-7. That should be sufficient for regular IPA to extract some hoppy chemicals and produce hoppy aroma. If you don't filter your beer, it will bring some haziness to it, which is totally acceptable by the style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T19:19:46.783" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17270" CreationDate="2016-04-21T19:33:13.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With Kvass you don't want to wait longer then 3-4 days. In fact, all your fermentation should be done in 1-2 days in a warm place, that's why you don't really wanna go above 4%ABV. Then it should be cold-crashed for 1-2 days, filtered and consumed within another 3-4 days... It should not take longer then 7 days from making Kvass to finishing a last pint of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... with that... you should move to a warmer place... I keep my kvasses at 75-80F during fermentation. If that didn't work, re-do it. Also, another method is not to use yeast (like baking yeast), and try do create a starter from either barley (or wheat) of flour (again, rye, wheat or barley). It will make the best Kvass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T19:33:13.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17574" CreationDate="2016-04-22T13:28:30.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along with different beer styles having different carbonation levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;It's useful for abreviating force carbonation time.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; You can set the fresh keg to 30 PSI for a couple days to carbonate, instead of the plug and forget at serving pressure for a few days. While still having other beers at serving pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T13:28:30.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17589" CreationDate="2016-04-22T21:42:40.537" Score="0" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a Tom Hardy's old ale recipe, that i screwed up and planning on doing it again. and looking for advice, when i get it correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in the directions, it says &quot;once the fermentation has abated, to rack to a barrel and add a sachet of wine yeast to it and stash it somewhere and forget it for 3 months. &quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the barrel aging of it, but don't quite understand why the wine yeast is added to the barrel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;recipe specifics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;size 2.5 US gal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mash at 151F @ 90 mins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG 1.125&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking Gravity 1.028&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;no FG given. &#xA;abv~13%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/40nm3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;directions_0&quot;&gt;1]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6aeSd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;directions_1&quot;&gt;2]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T22:41:17.377" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T03:23:30.470" Title="High gravity beer, with wine yeast in secondary" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|high-gravity|barrel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16294" CreationDate="2016-04-22T23:46:55.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;an american milk stout &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;maybe a sour beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brett beers, but brett, may eat some of the sweetner or convert them into unknowns....with weird flavors....(recently i found out brett ferments lactose and some hop compounds.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im sure there are others, but those are the ones that came to mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T23:46:55.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17584" CreationDate="2016-04-23T09:59:01.467" Score="0" ViewCount="1652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on brewing a quad with my dad here pretty soon but I would like to make something that wouldn't take too long as we haven't brewed in a while and I'm not wanting to wait too long until I can drink it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read some recipes call for the brew to be aged for a few months before cracking open a bottle. Is this required for the beer to be fermented properly? I ask because pasts beers I've made have only taken 1-2 months total from brew day to being ready to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13598" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T11:58:19.680" Title="How long does a Belgian quad take from start to finish?" Tags="|fermentation|belgian|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17567" CreationDate="2016-04-23T11:51:15.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that a Fermentis Safbrew T-58 would be a close match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13599" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T11:51:15.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17582" CreationDate="2016-04-23T11:58:19.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Is this required for the beer to be fermented properly?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, it should be fermented fully within a couple weeks at most, though Belgian yeast can be a bit finicky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt; the bigger issue is &lt;em&gt;conditioning&lt;/em&gt; time. Belgian quads are usually ~11+%ABV. If you drink that two weeks after fermentation is done, it'll probably taste a bit like gasoline (a lot of 'heat' from higher alcohols). You certainly &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; drink it, as in it wouldn't be fermenting any more, but the flavor on a beer that strong usually doesn't peak until 4-6 months after fermentation, or longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottle-conditioning is another issue, if you choose this method. Where a lower-alcohol beer might carbonate fully in a week and a half, a beer this strong may take 3-4 weeks or more just to carbonate. Also, if it's conditioned for a number of months, you will probably have to pitch fresh yeast for conditioning to be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, really, for something you're not wanting to wait too long to drink, I think Belgian Quad, though a great style to brew, is not what you're looking for. Why not brew a Belgian Dubble, which will give you a lot of the same flavor characteristics? That should be ready within a month or two, plus you'll have a nice healthy crop of yeast you could pitch into a Quad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T11:58:19.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17367" CreationDate="2016-04-23T12:08:53.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A slant/plate made directly from a starter will likely stay viable longer than that picked up from trub. I'd estimate under decent conditions it should be good for up to about 6 months.... longer if under optimum conditions. But like Evil Zymurgist said, there are many, many factors at play here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13599" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T12:08:53.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17588" CreationDate="2016-04-23T14:27:55.907" Score="3" ViewCount="2755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I added the yeast to my fermentation bucket and closed it up without stirring.  Remembered about 8 hrs later; opened bucket, lots of yeast floating on top, stirred it up good and closed it.  Have I ruined my batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13600" LastActivityDate="2018-08-26T21:06:21.763" Title="Brewing - forgot to stir in yeast" Tags="|beer|yeast|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17586" CreationDate="2016-04-23T14:42:10.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doubtful you ruined it. As long as you practiced good sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing it was dry yeast if it was floating. I would swirl the fermentor to make a whirlpool with the fermentor sealed until it's mixed in. This should remove any yeast stuck to the sides and help get some oxygen in the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future hydrate your yeast before pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T14:42:10.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17586" CreationDate="2016-04-23T14:43:05.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. There was no need to stir, however; once the yeast become active, they'll start moving throughout the wort (and getting it to move quite a lot) all by themselves. As well, stirring the wort could introduce contaminates or oxygen from the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there should never be a need to stir, either. If you're using dry yeast, you really should rehydrate it first, then pour the liquid into the wort. If you're using liquid yeast, with or without a starter, it's already liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T14:43:05.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17580" CreationDate="2016-04-23T14:52:22.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With that OG and mash temp it will have a lot of fermentables, that OG really goes into Wee Heavy and English Barley Wine territory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wine yeast sounds like it's to finish out the few remaining gravity points and for natural carbonation using a 2 bar air lock on the barrel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: The additions of the wine yeast are to insure a good FG and added again with sugar at bottling time for carbonation and aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T03:23:30.470" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T03:23:30.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17254" CreationDate="2016-04-23T16:40:17.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Congratulations on your first brew, I used a similar kit for my first brew and was pretty nervous about the fermentation process as well. All of the bubbling is fine — it won't always be vigorous but at times can just be slow and steady. As long as the bubbles are there you know your beer is doing the right thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13598" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T16:40:17.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17545" CreationDate="2016-04-23T16:45:24.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always just boiled some sugar and water and dumped that straight into my bottling bucket and then siphoned the beer over it — since the tube is just hanging into the bucket at an angle it will swirl and mix the beer with your priming solution that you just boiled. Now you have an even amount of parking solution for each bottle and don't have to worry about any drops and can just rack the beer into bottles and wait your two weeks to enjoy it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13598" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T16:45:24.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17601" CreationDate="2016-04-23T22:00:45.700" Score="0" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a month ago, I started making a dairy-free drink with blended fruit (i.e. Strawberries, Raspberries, etc). I'd like to start lacto-fermenting these smoothies but a friend of mine insists that the sugar content is too high and it would be impossible for bacteria to grow in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can bacteria (namely Lactobacillus) grow in high concentrations of sugar? If not, why and would the sugar content of my blended fruit be too high to allow bacteria fermentation? Would it be possible to lacto-ferment things like Orange Juice or Apple Juice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12410" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T13:41:42.027" Title="Does High Sugar Concentration Inhibits Bacterial growth?" Tags="|fermentation|techniques|ingredients|sugar|bacteria|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17594" CreationDate="2016-04-24T03:53:02.813" Score="5" ViewCount="857" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was reading the BJCP guide for Eisbock and noticed they mention something about this particular style does not have a lot of head but has a &quot;pronounced leg&quot;, as in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pronounced legs are often evident&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never heard this term until now and was wondering what they mean by this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13431" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T03:26:37.497" Title="What does &quot;Pronounced legs&quot; mean in a beer style?" Tags="|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17593" CreationDate="2016-04-24T04:08:31.037" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, this term comes from the wine world, where it refers to the patterns the glycerine makes on the inside of the glass. Glycerine (glyceryl alcohol or glycerol) is decidedly thicker than ethanol or water, so it forms a clear syrupy ring from which droplets or streamers trail down toward the surface of the beverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image of leggy wine I &lt;a href=&quot;http://thewinoandiknow.typepad.com/the-wino-and-i-know/2010/10/my-wine-as-nice-legs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;found on the 'Net&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05H7N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05H7N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Legs in a glass of red wine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thewinoandiknow.typepad.com/the-wino-and-i-know/2010/10/my-wine-as-nice-legs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://thewinoandiknow.typepad.com/the-wino-and-i-know/2010/10/my-wine-as-nice-legs.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13284" LastEditorUserId="13284" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T03:26:37.497" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T03:26:37.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2016-04-24T05:13:26.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want an easy and inexpensive way to put the label on your bottle try milk.  Make sure the bottles are dry, paint the back of the paper with milk, and press it on.  It resists sweating, adheres well, and comes off completely after a few seconds soak in hot soapy water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13604" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T05:13:26.740" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-04-24T05:13:26.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17593" CreationDate="2016-04-24T05:25:53.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never heard of this in the beer world but in the wine world &quot;legs&quot; are formed as the liquid moves down the glass after being swirled or having been drank. The appearance is different than lacing from a beer as legs appear as long drooping lines and lacing (as you know) resembles lace-y material and appears more like dried foam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13598" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T05:25:53.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17599" CreationDate="2016-04-24T09:39:59.953" Score="3" ViewCount="9008" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I did my first ever beer and it was to be a hoppy Saison (3724 combined with Amarillo, Centennial and Cascade). I had tons of stuff going wrong while boiling, even not managing to temperature crash the beer (Ambient temperature here is 30 degrees). So far the taste of it was yummy, bitter, a little fruity and the finish just sucks your tongue dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now after four weeks I got curious to see what it turned out like so far so I took a tasting glass and emptied a bit of beer from the carboy using the spigot on the bottom. There was a fair bit of sediment in the glass (I think most of it is hop pellet remains):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eIjJg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eIjJg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was wondering what my options are here. Considering there is a significant amount of sediment, could I get away with transfering it on bottling day to a bottling bucket and let it rest for an hour or two (so all the sediment can settle before trasnfering it into a bottle?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other options aside from putting it to secondary? (if you guys think this is too much sediment I guess I don't have any other option) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I already considered was not transferring through the spigot but with a tube and &quot;pump&quot; it over to the bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T19:01:58.483" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T20:39:55.287" Title="How to remove sediment?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|sediment|saison|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17602" CreationDate="2016-04-24T09:41:32.423" Score="3" ViewCount="2735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about making some Mexican-style lager using one of the following kits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coopers Mexican Cerveza&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bulldog Beer Kit - Cortez Gold Mexican Cerveza&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better Brew Bandit, Tequila and lime&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I managed to find the instructions for one of these and it recommends a primary brewing temperature of 20-25 degrees C. This suits me as that is roughly the temperature of my kitchen. These are the questions I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If lager brewing requires a temperature of 7 degrees C, why do these kits suggest a brewing temperature of 20-25?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally speaking its hard to find proper instructions for most lager kits online. If there are no instructions, how do I know what temperature to brew it at (before purchase)? This is a problem for me, as I don't have the facilities to make lager the proper way, so I need to be sure in advance of buying a kit that it is suitable to be brewed at room temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13443" LastEditorUserId="13443" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T11:16:01.863" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T10:19:40.597" Title="How do lager kits let you brew at room temperature?" Tags="|temperature|lager|kits|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17597" CreationDate="2016-04-24T13:03:40.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grats on your first brew!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately you need to draw beer from above the trub (sediment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your fermentor is designed for fermenting and has a spigot, it should have an adjustable arm you can turn to draw beer from above the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a bottling bucket you can prop up the bucket a couple inches while it's settling to get trub to settle away from the spigot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can use a racking cane (auto syphon) to rack the beer with more control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T13:03:40.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17598" CreationDate="2016-04-24T13:14:13.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;20-25°C, 68-77°F are Ale temps, Lagers ferment at 55°F or below. Above 72°F is usually only a few styles of Ales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a short time called a &lt;em&gt;Diacetyl Rest&lt;/em&gt; where your Lager fermentation temperature is raised to 68°F for a couple of days at the end of primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really need good temp control for Lagers. Heating and Cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T13:14:13.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17592" CreationDate="2016-04-24T13:41:42.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Osmotic pressure does retard cell devision in most micro organisms making it hard to grow &quot;in&quot; a dense solution but they will have no problem growing &quot;on&quot; such a solution. High sugar content does little to inhibit growth of bacteria and yeast as long as it's still a solution and not a &quot;gel&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, you can sour your juices you mentioned with lacto just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T13:41:42.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17598" CreationDate="2016-04-24T15:14:43.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are kits with call themselves &quot;lager&quot; kits, but if you make them with the yeast provided and at the temperatures suggested, they will not produce a true lager beer.  The beer they produce might taste quite similar to a light lager, but they will be ales.  They would probably fit into one of these (2015) BJCP categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1C Cream Ale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;18A Blonde Ale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest going ahead and trying a few of these.  I'm an all-grain brewer now, but I used to make Morgan's Blue Mountain Lager a lot.  I really enjoyed it, though I knew it wasn't really a lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would modify the kits slightly if the directions ask you to add sugar before fermentation.  Replace that sugar with LME (liquid malt extract) or DME (dry malt extract).  But go ahead and use sugar for priming at bottling time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe one day you can get some temperature-control equipment (and a different yeast) and try these as true lagers.  But until then, I bet you'll enjoy them as they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;__&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2015_Guidelines_Beer.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2015_Guidelines_Beer.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T15:58:50.433" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T15:58:50.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17598" CreationDate="2016-04-24T18:37:49.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason they say to ferment at that range is because it's within reach of the typical homebrewer without any additional equipment. The kit producers can then sell to the widest possible audience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the most lager-like results you can try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fermenting lower with the yeast you have - 17/18C will reduce the fruitiness (esters) that's produced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use a pseudo-lager strain. These are mostly ale yeast (with the exception of California common). They produce a clean beer by fermenting at even lower temperatures, or in the case of WY2112, produce an acceptable beer when fermented warm for a lager strain: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;California Common yeast (steam beer); WY2112/WLP810&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kolsch yeast; WY2565/WLP029&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;WY1007 German Ale - can be fermented down to 55F/13C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;California Ale yeast; WY1056/WLP001 - this can also ferment down to 60F/15C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;add beer enzyme - this will break down some of the unfermentables to create a drier beer. A true lager yeast can ferment more than ale yeasts - the beer enzyme helps the ale yeast ferment more. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T10:19:40.597" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T10:19:40.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17604" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T21:23:14.057" Score="2" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;Researching a Berliner weisse and have decided that I will be doing a kettle sour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lactobacillus likes to be around 45°C from what I have read so far. Currently my thinking is to transfer the kettle onto a hotplate like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fine-Elements-Electrical-Single-Plate/dp/B00A4DE35G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1461532802&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=hot+plate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, connected to a temperature probe in order to keep a consistent temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would there be any issue with keeping the wort on a direct heat source for a sustained period? Any other issues with this proposal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T09:00:04.810" Title="Kettle souring with lactobacillus - hot plate?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|sour|lactobacillus|berliner-weisse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17598" CreationDate="2016-04-24T21:44:15.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2016/02/08/fermentation-temperature-pt-4-lager-yeast-saflager-3470-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; out- &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The author brews two identical batches using a true lager yeast (Saflager 34/70) but ferments one at a &quot;lager&quot; temp of 50˚F/10˚C and the other up at 70˚F/21˚C. He then runs a taste test that included BJCP judges in the panel and found that they &quot;were unable to reliably distinguish between pale lagers of the same recipe fermented 20˚F/11˚C apart.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13606" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T21:44:15.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17604" CreationDate="2016-04-25T09:00:04.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Wort&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be good, if you will have a good way to stir. In 30 liters I found temperature differences of more than 20°C to be possible, and ones around 5-10°C to be pretty common. So make sure some kind of automatic stir is there, or heat really, really slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Safety&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to use system that, if probe is short circuited or missing, switches off heating and preferably causes sound alarm. If possible, use driver that allows for three probes, and place additional ones on exterior of your kettle and on the plate's chassis. Have fire extinguisher nearby, a lot of liquid and long term electricity heating are sparking, fiery kind of friends. Never leave it without someone aware what's happening in alarm's distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Alternative&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do would be to heat it to 45°C, stirring, and then just wrap it in all the blankets I have at home. This would keep wort in acceptable temperature for up to 10 hours. Not optimal temp, but acceptable one. Long enough time to sleep or go to work. Then, I would reheat and stir manually, every few hours when I'm at home. Sure, less precise. Sure, more work. But also far less chance for accidental boil, fire, leaving it cold unnoticed and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T09:00:04.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17564" CreationDate="2016-04-25T14:54:32.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fellow turned me onto Brewtarget to help me calculate the specifics of my batches.  It's also has some sample recipes to start with.  Might help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13605" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T14:54:32.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17597" CreationDate="2016-04-25T14:59:13.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also add gelatin to the batch before bottling.  Our will cause they sediment to coagulate and settle.  Then bottle using cane and a racking tip to ensure less debris.  I had the same issue as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13605" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T14:59:13.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T20:28:37.723" Score="1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make a berry cider this year and considering using fresh berries (raspberry or blackberry). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any body knows basic stats on raspberries or blackberries, like how many pounds do you need to produce 1 gallon of juice? What's the approximate starting gravity of freshly pressed berry juice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to search through google, but no luck. Lots of recipes with sugar additions for making country wine, but now stats on fresh berries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T13:28:29.277" Title="Pressing own fruits/berries" Tags="|cider|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17573" CreationDate="2016-04-25T22:02:45.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trial and error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no definite answer. I haven't achieved yet great aroma, so far dry hopped in primary in last couple days. I would add 5 oz per 10gl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read an article saying its better to dry hop it in keg or closed vessel. Aromas can escape with CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10787" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:02:45.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17573" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:08:26.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;YMMV, but when we do it, we'll actually wait until primary is nearly finished before dry hopping. If you move to secondary, you could actually pull it off the yeast cake for re-use without getting a ton of hops stuck in your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4-7 days is good at the end of primary/beginning of secondary should get you want you're after. If you're looking for a HUGE punch of aroma, then 3-4 oz (in 5 g). A regular nice nose is what you'll generally see for 1-2 oz/5g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vinnie Cilurzo from Russian River actually recommends two different dry hopping periods for an IIPA (once early and once late), but for a single, one 4-7 day period should do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drinking it fresh will be better than waiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T19:08:26.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17564" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:12:27.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to really start developing your own recipes is by getting (and reading) &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.to/1QyVcbx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewing Classic Styles&lt;/a&gt;. In my opinion, this is one of the best recipe books because it not only has excellent recipes, but also has insights on how the recipes were built and what you might do to tweak it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incredibly invaluable resource to own. The single best brewing book I've ever purchased - I think I recommend it once a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T19:12:27.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17449" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:21:02.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Airlock activity is not the be-all end-all. You could have a bad seal on a bucket or on the airlock grommet itself. Give it a little time (3-4 days) then check the gravity. Gravity movement is really the only 100% reliable way to test if the yeast is working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T19:21:02.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17449" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:59:59.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be too concerned by it but just be sure to keep up with the gravity reading to check for real progress. That's the surefire way to make sure your beer is doing what it's supposed to. Airlock activity isn't the only sign. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13598" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T20:59:59.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17573" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:02:11.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be get a pretty good hop aroma with just dry hopping for the last couple of days in primary. That's always been my plan of attack and it's worked well compared to dry hopping at other periods of primary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13598" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T21:02:11.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17597" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:07:00.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had big problems with too much trub (sediment) in my first couple of batches but now that I use an auto-syphon it isn't really an issue anymore. Hop pellets definitely will contribute to the sediment residing at the bottom of a batch but an auto-siphon is extremely helpful as you can use it to avoid sucking directly off of the bottom of the carbon, thus avoiding the trub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13598" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T21:07:00.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17586" CreationDate="2016-04-27T01:59:45.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already stated above, your batch should be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record, the instructions on my dry yeast packets (Safale/Saflager) read: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PITCHING:&lt;/strong&gt; sprinkle into wort. I have done this for over 180 brews with a 100% success rate. One key word - &quot;sprinkle&quot;, so to avoid the risk of clumping, don't chuck or dump the yeast, sprinkle it. No need to rehydrate, even though it is recommended by many commentators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T01:59:45.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T10:38:58.247" Score="3" ViewCount="10453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wondered if anyone who has used the above yeast can give me an idea on the quantity required. I am brewing a fairly high SG IPA (somewhere in the region of 1.065-1.080) batch size 15-20L. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewers friend recipe calculator suggests 27g of this yeast based on a 10 billion cells/g density. This is rated at &gt; 6 billion cells/g (which, if i'm calculating correctly, based on the lower estimate of 6 billion cells/g, I would actually need 45g, or 4 packets!!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen posts which suggest that 1 packet of this yeast would be ample for a batch this size up to an SG of 1.085?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to under of over yeast!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case this is needed, I am trying a very basic recipe out (I'm still a newbie);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2-2.5 kg pre-hopped light DME&#xA;0.5-1.0 kg dextrose&#xA;Fermentis US-05 yeast ? g&#xA;50-75g Cascade (dry hop)&#xA;50-75g Southern Star (dry hop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&#xA;Gary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13569" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T14:30:04.150" Title="How much fermentis/safale US-05 yeast to use?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17620" CreationDate="2016-04-27T10:53:59.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Homebrewers are notoriously underpitching, if you look at it using commercial standards. Two to four packets would be healthy, &quot;commercial grade&quot; pitch. And &quot;commercial grade&quot; is what your yeast calculator is using. Remember, commercial breweries are all about cost reduction / income maximization, so the fact they pitch that many cells means they earn more than they spend on extra yeast - in beer quality and process simplification. Usually you do not want to mimic &quot;cost optimizations&quot; of commercial breweries, but ones that earn you quality and simplicity are good ones to look at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One packet would be considered underpitching, but my experience shows I usually can get away with it. Good aeration of wort is the key then. Adding yeast nutrient helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be safe, or want to make competition quality beer, 2 packets kept in optimal conditions or 4 kept in acceptable ones are your way. Otherwise, your call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T10:53:59.883" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17611" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:28:29.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think they would have a similar yield per pound as strawberries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I juiced 6lb of strawberries for 64oz (1/2 gallon) of juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T13:28:29.277" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17586" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:21:43.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't be ruined, the yeast should still activate and work its way through your wort without the need to stir. As a previous answer mentioned, stirring your wort at this point in the process isn't a good idea unless you've made sure your stirring instrument is very well sanitized, and even then you still would be introducing oxygen to your batch which brings on a pretty prevalent cardboard-y taste to the finished product... believe me, I've been there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13598" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T21:21:43.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1563" CreationDate="2016-04-28T00:15:32.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knocking out is when you chill the wort. For example I knocked out to 18˚C so I could pitch my yeast. Flame out is minute 0. For example I added 45g willamette hops at flame out to add aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13620" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T00:15:32.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17573" CreationDate="2016-04-28T06:02:14.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm with everyone else. 5-7 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get that super hoppy aroma though, I've only been able to get that by using a hop back with first-wort and dry-hopping (clone W. Coast ipa, greenflash). For less than $30 I built a hop back and filtered the wort through loose leaf hops of the same or similar variety I was already pellet-hopping, just prior to chilling, pitching and fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the general idea I built mine from - &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oencb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oencb.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13528" LastEditorUserId="13528" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T23:09:49.970" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T23:09:49.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17620" CreationDate="2016-04-28T08:20:48.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb, I work on 1 gram of dried yeast per litre of wort. Has worked for me for the past 3 years. When using packets of yeast, I would simply sprinkle a whole 11.5 gram packet into my 10 litres of wort. Last year I purchased a 500gram package of S-04, so I simply measure out on my digital scales 10 grams of yeast per 10 litre brew. There is plenty of guidance information on the Fermentis website, so check there if in any doubt.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T08:20:48.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17631" CreationDate="2016-04-29T07:16:54.040" Score="1" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this beer over the weekend and really enjoyed it and I would love to brew an all grain clone of it myself. Is anyone familiar with this beer? if so does anyone know of a recipe that would come close. The ABV is 8%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T23:01:59.897" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T01:07:03.790" Title="Abita Andygator Clone (helles doppelbock)" Tags="|all-grain|recipe|brewing|clone-recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17597" CreationDate="2016-04-29T07:34:05.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The existing answers are hard to add to. However, making sure you end up with minimal sediment in your fermenter in the first place goes a long way in clarifying the beer. Such as using hop bags or a boil screen to keep pellet hop gunk out. Also the use of clarifying agents such as whirfloc in the boil and using a whirpool will all contribute to the wort being much more clear when transferring to you fermenter. The Speidel fermenters from morebeer.com are great inexpensive fermenters with the spigot placed high enough over the trub to leave it behind when transferring or pulling samples. The less expensive route would be the auto siphon but siphons suck! Pun intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastEditorUserId="13027" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T05:49:01.087" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T05:49:01.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4274" CreationDate="2016-04-29T08:38:02.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earthy flavours can be caused by mold spores in the area you store your beer.  They tend to occur in damp areas where the mold grow within the walls of the area and then passes a chemical through any porous surface into the beer (even some glass)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next batch you make sanitise the equipment and then sanitise the walls, floors and stands etc where you will be storing and fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13626" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T08:38:02.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17628" CreationDate="2016-04-29T08:43:26.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clone recipe &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=4539348&amp;amp;postcount=13&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;posted here&lt;/a&gt; don't know how legal it was for them to post, and how legal for me would be to re-post here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://abita.com/brews/our_brews/andygator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Manufacturer's site&lt;/a&gt; gives you ingredients:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pilsner malt,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;German lager yeast,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;German Perle hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also gives you parameters to target, for use with software like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtarget.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BrewTarget&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABV 8.0%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IBU 25&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color 8 SRM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BYO recipe follows these pretty good, with pilsner malt and  pilsner malt extracts. For all grain, you can just use all pilsner malt. They also hop with Perle only, at traditional 60', 30' and 5'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And use soft water - it seems that's what Abita is using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T01:07:03.790" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T01:07:03.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17640" CreationDate="2016-04-30T14:21:57.240" Score="2" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just put the extract version of this in the fermenter:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wagonbrewing.co.nz/panhead-port-road-clone?search=pilsner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wagonbrewing.co.nz/panhead-port-road-clone?search=pilsner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gravity is 1.037 which seems way low. Dammit I don't want no weak beer! But I don't understand why it is so low. I did a partial boil (13L once the extract was added), chilled, siphoned to the fermenter and then topped up to 23L per the recipe. Wishing now I stopped at 20L and took a reading. Also aerated it by shaking the fermenter so it is definitely not a mixing issue messing with the reading. There is maybe 1cm of fluid/hops gunk left in the kettle. What happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that was not great was the stove I was using was underpowered so it was a weak boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Malts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 x Black Rock Ultra Light Extract 1.7kg Can&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;250g - Weyermann&#xA;Carahell Malt (Steep)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13384" LastEditorUserId="13384" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T21:05:43.467" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T00:35:52.680" Title="Pilsner extract kit: why is the original gravity low?" Tags="|original-gravity|partial-boil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17632" CreationDate="2016-04-30T17:15:15.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have some dry malt extract (or liquid), you can get the gravity to where you want it now.  It's not too late to add the DME, even though it's already in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 1 pound of DME should get you up to about 1.045, which should give you a roughly 5% abv beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T17:15:15.227" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-01T01:23:18.673" Score="2" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;(This is only tangentially related to brewing by virtue of Starsan and PWB - feel free to close if this is inappropriate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an evaporative cooler, better known as a swamp cooler, that I use in place of AC. It works by drawing water onto a particular material and then blowing a fan across the wet material; the evporation has a localized cooling effect. &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9788/would-placing-the-fermenter-tank-in-a-tub-of-water-be-a-good-way-to-handle-hot-e&quot;&gt;We use the same principal&lt;/a&gt; to keep our fermentation temperatures down if we don't have a fermentation refrigerator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't turned it on since last summer and figure it could be somewhat dirty-- at the minimum, some organic material, and at the maximum, some gross infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be fine for me to run water with PRB and/or starsan in it to clean it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2017-04-09T01:51:40.633" Title="Running a PRB or Star San solution through an Evaporative Cooler" Tags="|starsan|swamp-cooler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17636" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-01T13:01:58.737" Score="1" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to all-grain brewing.  What would adding a 250g of malt extract have on an all-grain brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13632" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T15:23:21.467" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T15:23:21.467" Title="Effect of adding some malt extract to an all-grain brew" Tags="|all-grain|extract|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17636" CreationDate="2016-05-01T15:54:56.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you mean &quot;what effect will that amount have on the gravity&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's what you mean, and if &quot;a full brew&quot; is about 20-23 litres, then it should raise the gravity by about 1.004.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T15:54:56.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17639" CreationDate="2016-05-01T16:38:00.623" Score="4" ViewCount="650" Body="&lt;p&gt;When bottle conditioning, it seems (though I haven't done anything scientific enough to know for sure) that I get varying amounts of carbonation depending on how long I refrigerate the beer before drinking.  At first I assume it was just inconsistency with priming but after researching force-carbonation recently I'm beginning to think it may be related to the equilibrium of temperature and carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that many of the cases where I'm getting less carbonation are within 24 hours or so of refrigerating while those that are refrigerated longer seem to be better carbonated.  Is there possibly something to this?  How long should bottles generally be chilled before serving to ensure that the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in the bottle is in equilibrium?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T16:44:05.080" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T20:18:49.760" Title="How long to chill bottles before carbonation is equilibrated?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17638" CreationDate="2016-05-01T20:18:49.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While c02 does absorb easier at colder temperatures, I doubt you would get inconsistency if they are fully conditioned and chilled completely. The extra chill time could be it just finishing conditioning, as many yeast will still be active at fridge temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible causes could be conditioning wasn't complete or different amounts of yeast or fermentables in bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could test by opening two bottles of the same age but different chill durations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T20:18:49.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17632" CreationDate="2016-05-01T21:52:13.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say your boil was weak, and you didn't stir much. Extracts are hard to dissolve properly. Even vigorous boil without stirring may fail to do it. And 10-20 minutes of vigorous stir before wort boils may be barely enough. And it gets worse the less water you have in boil, so partial boil brews are most exposed to this risk. Sugars are heavier than water, so if not dissolved enough, they concentrate on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I guess happened is that a lot of sugars stayed at the bottom, with your hop waste. You would lose some of theoretical 1.046 anyway, but you probably lost more than you needed. Your results are consistent with loss of 0.4kg of liquid extract. Within what I can imagine in 1cm of gunk liquid. Especially given the fact that most extracts are already boiled, so you shouldn't have hot break - you shouldn't have any waste except spent hops, but it looks like you think you did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T22:49:54.557" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T22:49:54.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17791" CreationDate="2016-05-02T12:32:56.293" Score="2" ViewCount="3452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing my Kombucha for about four months now, starting a new batch every four to five days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since three weeks my Kombucha got a little thick (viscous, syrupy). I did not change my recipe, the SCOBY just got bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? Is this caused by the bigger SCOBY?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13564" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T19:00:49.140" Title="Why is my Kombucha getting thicker?" Tags="|kombucha|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17657" CreationDate="2016-05-03T16:22:50.887" Score="4" ViewCount="2220" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going to dry hop on my IPA and dont know if add gelatin to primary then rack to secondary then add hops or dry hop on primary and then gelatin and then rack to secondary for aging&lt;br&gt;&#xA;what do you think? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13588" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T10:28:48.663" Title="Gelatin before or after dry hopping" Tags="|secondary|ipa|gelatin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17644" CreationDate="2016-05-03T17:37:31.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For taste and aroma, 4 to 7 days of dry hopping are optimal. For clarity I prefer to give isinglass 7 to 14 days. Probably it's the same with gelatin, these are similar. Thus, I obviously add gelatin first, hops second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing. If you want to rack to secondary, strongly consider adding gelatin after racking. I guess you will be using another bucket just for bottling? If so, racking your beer from sediment, and then adding gelatin, helps. You will not have any waste in your wort, nothing you could pick from the bottom when you stir gelatin in your beer. The less particles gelatin needs to drop to the bottom, the more effective it is. Only when you plan to bottle directly from your second fermentation bucket, adding gelatin to primary makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T17:37:31.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17558" CreationDate="2016-05-04T08:45:19.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Previous answer was a bit overwhelming. Here's the skinny with a simple remedy for if this happens again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydrogen sulfide (H2S) is the rotten egg odor you smell, and it usually forms at the end of fermentation. Most home winemakers won’t notice a smelly problem until the first racking. If you do smell rotten eggs, the quicker you can act, the better your chances of saving the wine. If your wine is not treated promptly, hydrogen sulfide will react with other carbon compounds in the wine to create mercaptans, and later into disulfides. These are extremely difficult to remove from your wine once they are present, so the faster you can detect and treat your wine for hydrogen sulfide, the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many sources suggest that you add copper sulfate to your wine, but most vintners advise against this. While a very, very, VERY small amount of copper sulfate will take care of your H2S problem, it is poisonous. Big wineries use copper sulfate, but there is a kinder, gentler approach, using chemicals that most winemakers already have on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, measure the level of sulfides in your wine using a SO2 Test Kit if you can. If the wine is deficient, treat the wine to 50 p.p.m. sulfides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, rack the wine two or three times, making sure to splash it around a lot as the wine is transferred between vessels. This aeration introduces oxygen to the wine, and will help counteract the hydrogen sulfide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the airlock, and let it sit overnight. This should take care of the problem in most cases, but if it still stinks, perform these extra steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy a piece of copper flashing from a home supply store.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hold the piece of copper in the neck of the carboy while the wine is being racked, so that the wine runs over the copper surface and into the carboy. Fine and/or filter the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;By now, that stinkiness should be greatly reduced. If you STILL detect a smell, try gelatin finings in the amount stated on the package.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After fining, we suggest running the wine through a filter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you’ve taken all of these steps to no avail, you could try using copper sulfate. But BE CAREFUL! Add NO MORE than 0.5 ml per gallon. Afterward, be sure to fine the wine with bentonite or Sparkolloid according to package instructions. Either of these will remove the copper sulfate. Then filter to remove the fining agent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T10:22:02.763" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T10:22:02.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9246" CreationDate="2016-05-04T11:24:04.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also want to share some points: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both Stainless steel and copper have good conductivity, copper has a higher heat conduction. On other hand stainless steel has long life and stainless steel also has good corrosion resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During CIP (Acid and base solution cleaning) of kettle stainless steel shows good response.&#xA;These days the majority of food grade equipment is made of stainless steel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more point, Stainless steel is stronger than copper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important consideration is cost, definitely stainless steel will be cheaper than copper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13638" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T15:45:53.660" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T15:45:53.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3435" CreationDate="2016-05-04T12:05:49.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For wort you can use any centrifugal pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following are some important points while selecting a pump:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Internal for pump should be of stainless steel.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Inlet and outlet should be of stainless steel.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. Use SMS union type end fitting.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4. Use EPDM/ PTFE gasket material.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5. As wort is hot liquid, it can create cavitation. So while searchingfor a pump, ask supplier to supply with low suction pressure capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13638" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T11:14:30.240" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T11:14:30.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9246" CreationDate="2016-05-04T19:41:09.017" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would strongly discourage aluminium. For frying pans it's acceptable, because it does not react with fats. For mash tun I wouldn't accept it. It reacts with acids easily. Especially in hot environment and over long time. It is only safe cold, for non-acidic foods. That's why all aluminium soda cans are lined inside. Anodized aluminium is better, because only hard oxide is in contact with food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For details about drinks with aluminium, I advise reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.who.int/water_sanitation_health/dwq/chemicals/en/aluminium.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.who.int/water_sanitation_health/dwq/chemicals/en/aluminium.pdf&lt;/a&gt; and similar documents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Behavioural impairment has been reported in laboratory animals exposed to soluble&#xA;  aluminium salts (e.g. lactate, chloride) in the diet or drinking-water in the absence of overt&#xA;  encephalopathy or neurohistopathology. Both rats (Commissaris et al., 1982; Thorne et al.,&#xA;  1987; Connor et al., 1988) and mice (Yen-Koo, 1992) have demonstrated such impairments at&#xA;  doses exceeding 200 mg of aluminium per kg of body weight per day. Although significant&#xA;  alterations in acquisition and retention of learned behaviour were documented, the possible&#xA;  role of organ damage (kidney, liver, immunological) due to aluminium was incompletely&#xA;  evaluated in these studies (WHO, 1997).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper has similar problems, but because it is far less common, accumulating significant dose is harder. Traditional copper cookware was covered with tin on the inside, because it was known since middle ages that not covered copper causes bad health when used daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stainless steel is ideal, because it's hard to dissolve any traceable amount in water, and even if, some amount of iron, carbon and chrome are acceptable and even needed - I remember reading that most &quot;first worlders&quot; don't ingest suggested dose of chromium anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enamel is good, because it is inert. If damaged, enamel iron will just give iron to solution - flaw in beer, but not an health issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T06:29:36.773" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T06:29:36.773" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T22:50:36.543" Score="4" ViewCount="873" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to distill 4 liters of 6.5% cider, would i end up with an amount of 90% plus, of what would essentially be flavored ethanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would i end up with around 2 liters of around 13% apple wine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sort of yield would i expect in terms of both liters and ABV?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12922" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T00:36:04.167" Title="Distillation Yield in Litres and ABV" Tags="|distillation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17650" CreationDate="2016-05-05T00:36:04.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be clear you will not produce anything like apple wine as you will be distilling the product and all non-volatile compounds will be lost. You will be producing an apple brandy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your final yield and the quality of that yield will be determined by how well you can control the temperature of the vapor at the still head and the plate equivalency of your still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say for example you were to distill all 4 liters of your apple cider in a very slow and controlled manner with a good vigreux column and discarded all distillate that came over below a head temp of 77C and stopped distilling at 82C you could conceivably get from a single distillation over 80% alcohol by volume with very low adjunct inclusion and about 300ml total yield. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your actual yield volume will depend on how good your condenser is at condensing the distillate and your quality will be related to the equivalent plate count of your fractioning column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13445" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T00:36:04.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17644" CreationDate="2016-05-05T02:23:33.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always done finings after all fermentation addition schedules have completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most finings work best during or after cold crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want your hops to be warm and suspended for their dry hop duration for best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T02:23:33.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-05T08:36:52.767" Score="4" ViewCount="1470" Body="&lt;p&gt;My parents were making apple juice with some home grown apples and I decided to try and make cider. I added the juice to a demijohn and added some yeast and left to ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put it away and completely forgot about it until the other day. It's been about 6 months! It still had an air lock on but barely any water left!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took the topper and air lock off there was a strange film/layer on top (see picture). The layer is actually an off white colour and it's the demijohn making it look orange!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I smelled the cider, it smelled like cider and not rotten or moldy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this be fine to try and siphon out and put into bottles for further fermentation and carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9HW6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9HW6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layer/film&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13621" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T10:10:32.737" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T10:10:32.737" Title="Weird Film/Layer on cider in fermenter" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17641" CreationDate="2016-05-05T09:13:28.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably caused by the larger SCOBY, next time round trim down the SCOBY and try again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it smells OK and tastes OK then you are most likely fine, if it has sulfur notes or anything else unpleasant, then ditch it and start again with a trimmed down SCOBY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T09:13:28.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17653" CreationDate="2016-05-05T10:20:55.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is some sort of pellicle.  Almost looks like a Wyeast Roeselare sour blend pellicle (Just as something to compare it too).  Yeast, even wild yeast, would have settled out by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its impossible to tell type of wild contaminant you have there.  It is likely a blend of your yeast (which was what?), wild yeast and bacteria.  The good thing is at least in this picture it doesn't look like mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to have to give it the smell and taste test to find out if you've got something worth keeping.  Carefully rack some out from under that layer.  Put some in a glass and smell it.  You can even pinch a little liquid in your fingers.  If it feels sticky or slick then its still got some time to go. I doubt it though.  Then taste it.  Whatever it is, 6-months of a simple cider there isn't anything fermentables left I'd predict. So if it tastes good and you want to keep it, bottle it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is tasty, I'd keep some of it still (bottle as is, flat).  And I'd add an appropriate amount of sugar and carbonate some.  I bet it will be pretty good. I've had several &quot;wildly&quot; fermented ciders and they come out surprisingly nice most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T10:20:55.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17644" CreationDate="2016-05-05T10:28:48.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My routine is to dry hop in that primary towards the end of fermentation.  At fermentation temperatures.  Then I rack to a keg (or a secondary in your case) to add my gelatin.  But there is no &quot;aging&quot;.  Its an IPA.  I want it to go from fermenation to dry hop to serving as quickly as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T10:28:48.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-05T23:11:54.007" Score="3" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to the homebrewing world, and so far I've done three 5 gallon batches. The first was a prebuilt kit (Pale Ale), the second was a recipe I concocted (IPA), and the third was a recipe I found online somewhere. (Belgian golden)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of these three batches have shared a very distinct off flavor. I'd characterize it by being overly fruity, as well as pretty bitter. I've made sure to have good sanitation, even going as far as using water purification tablets in the last batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all three batches, I fermented for three weeks, and carbonated for two. OG/FG have been pretty spot on as well. I've also maintained a constant temp during fermentation (~72 Fahrenheit). The first two used a single packet of US-05, and the most recent used a vial of White Labs WLP570. 5 ounces of corn sugar was used to prime each batch before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything overtly wrong I could be doing that would produce similar off flavors in all of these batches? Please let me know if I can provide any more details on the recipes or processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13648" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T12:13:48.530" Title="Off Flavors in all of my Homebrewing attempts" Tags="|beer|first-time-brewer|flavor|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17658" CreationDate="2016-05-06T00:16:56.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grats on your first brews!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like yeast stress esters from possibly under pitching or lack of oxygen, maybe even autolysis if it's sitting in a primary for 3 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suggestions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Use a yeast calculator.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;Single pack or vials are usually only enough up to about 1.040 OG. Use a starter to grow a proper pitch or use multiple packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Oxygenate your wort.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;Let it splash while filling your fermentor, shake the crap out of it to get it to foam up. Or add direct oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lower Temp&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Drop down to about 68° F for your pales, Belgians are usually happy much warmer since you want those growth esters in that style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Prevent autoylsis&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Use a secondary fermentor to remove the beer from the yeast cake after 7-14 days or when terminal gravity is within a couple points. Then you can let it warm to 72-75°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T00:16:56.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17658" CreationDate="2016-05-06T00:18:58.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well its purely speculation but if the off flavor is the same across three batches, and you're sure your sanitizing process is spot on, I'd say its likely to be either your fermentation temperature, your water or a little of both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beers are a little fruitier than you'd expect that could be fermentation temperature.  If you ambient temp is 72F you could expect the ferment to get up to 75-76F.  The ferment does create a small amount of its own heat.  Higher ferment temps will give more esters and esters mean fruit usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for it being more bitter... a higher ferment could dry the beer out more than the recipe intends.  A drier beer could seem more bitter depending on the hop bill.  If your water is really high in sulfates that would also contribute to a firmer, longer lasting bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention if you're doing extract of all grain.  If you are doing extract and your water is highly mineralized that could be a problem.  Because you are adding more minerals to the extract that has minerals from the manufacturer's water source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are brewing with extract, I'd recommend you try next time a simple pale ale and brew it with distilled water.  You can get 5 gallons of distilled water pretty cheaply from the grocery store or a pharmacy.  It would be a good experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T00:18:58.343" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17662" CreationDate="2016-05-06T08:52:42.827" Score="2" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read that when priming you need to boil sugar in water. I don't see the point since sugar is considered an anti septic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of boiling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be because we need desolved sugar and the water might be contaminated? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T10:08:58.533" Title="Why do we boil sugar before priming" Tags="|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17661" CreationDate="2016-05-06T09:20:39.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's because sugar dissolves much more easily into boiling water, and the syrup that results is easier to incorporate evenly into the beer.  There's a sanitizing component as well, but it's minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T09:20:39.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17661" CreationDate="2016-05-06T10:08:58.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sugar doesn't kill microbes.  Microbes don't grow in it because there's little water around.  But if you have an open bag of sugar (or anything for that matter) sitting around in your kitchen that you dip into every morning for your coffee, there are microbes getting into the bag.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So the boiling does indeed sanitize the solution.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Secondary to that the boiling helps dissolve it faster. You can get the typical amount of priming sugar to dissolve in the water without boiling, but it goes much faster because you are boiling it to sanitize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T10:08:58.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17636" CreationDate="2016-05-06T11:30:16.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &quot;Full brew&quot; mean that you will be adding the extract to a fermented beer, or are you just referring to an all-grain brew and adding the extract to the kettle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you can add extract to a fermented beer, but that seems strange. If you really want to, make sure that you sanitize it first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are adding it to your kettle during boil, then it is nothing strange. This technique is often used to reach gravity if you are a few points short, or if you are brewing a beer that has an OG that is not obtainable from your mashtun. Lots of barley wines require a few pounds of extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T11:30:16.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16403" CreationDate="2016-05-06T11:32:48.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe I have heard of it on Brewing Network, but my immediate problem would be, as @Dale mentioned, that you may end up with a boom and ash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems I am also answering after you already done it with no issues! Congrats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T11:32:48.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17658" CreationDate="2016-05-06T12:13:48.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using malt extract, this could be &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=%22extract%20twang%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;extract twang&lt;/a&gt;.&quot; Not all extract gives this off flavor, but some does. I suspect it mostly depends on the quality and age of the extract. It seems to be more of a problem with liquid extract than dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would describe the off flavor as a slight sourness in the finish, accompanied by a sort of astringent dryness. People perceive and describe things differently. What you call bitter, I might call astringent. What you call fruity, I might call sour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first several batches had a terrible twang to them and failed to attenuate fully. I began to suspect it was the bulk LME I was getting from my local shop so I started brewing all-grain. Years later, I haven't had that problem since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any reason to suspect LME could be the problem, I suggest doing your next brew with fresh &lt;em&gt;dry&lt;/em&gt; malt extract, as it has a longer shelf life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T12:13:48.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17676" CreationDate="2016-05-06T14:08:09.727" Score="1" ViewCount="767" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to brew an apple wine and would like this batch to be sweet. What is the best method to back sweeten an apple wine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13288" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T17:38:17.283" Title="How to back sweeten an apple wine" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17669" CreationDate="2016-05-06T15:32:33.967" Score="4" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 23 litre brew (about 5/6 gallons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fermentation bucket has a tap at the bottom for bottling. The bucket is covered with a lid, and has an airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to get some beer out to calculate its gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The options I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the lid, and dunk in a cup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the bucket to a table to be able to use the tap (but it's really heavy!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T09:50:15.517" Title="How to check gravity cleanly" Tags="|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17668" CreationDate="2016-05-06T15:46:41.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd pick up a wine thief, dips in and fills from the bottom.  Some can even house the hydrometer.  Otherwise a turkey baster does the trick.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to clean and sanitize anything that comes in contact with your wort though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2436" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T15:46:41.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17674" CreationDate="2016-05-06T16:18:36.147" Score="4" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made about 10 batches of hard cider. I have yet to have a contamination issue ruining a batch. I clean the carboy with washing up liquid and warm water. The bottles are the same. I use a juice if juicing apples, and that's not sanitised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read a lot about the need to be very careful with sanitization for beer homebrewing, which I'm experimenting with now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is beer more vulernerable to contamination than homebrewed hard cide for some reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T18:02:36.213" Title="Is beer more vulnerable to contamination than hard cider" Tags="|beer|cider|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17667" CreationDate="2016-05-06T17:28:02.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Impede the yeast activity with either sorbate or metabisulfite.  Then add the sweetener of choice in the bottling phase to taste.  Bottle from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T17:28:02.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17670" CreationDate="2016-05-06T17:32:54.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think so, especially given that cider and beer brewing are substantially the same.  I've brewed over 50 batches of beer using standard sanitation without ever having a batch contaminated.  I've also brewed one batch of cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a clean freak -- my method seems similar to the one you described.  I just wash out the carboy and tubing with either soap or sanitizer before rinsing, and wipe down the pot and miscellaneous brewing equipment with bleach before rinsing it with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that particular types of beer brewing, such as the recipes involving fruit or similar extracts, may be susceptible to contamination, but if you're starting with fairly simple beer styles, that shouldn't be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think as long as you use the same cleaning procedures you use in cider, you'll be fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12643" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T17:32:54.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17675" CreationDate="2016-05-06T17:54:47.687" Score="2" ViewCount="314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if degassing and removing the suspended CO2 (a part of, and a percentage of the wine) changes the totals for ABV% as it applies to yeast tolerance. It seems that by degassing you would inherently increase the existing ABV% because there is less total parts then when you started off before degassing. Even if 1% of the mead/wine is CO2, and it's released through degassing, that would mean the ABV would increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the flip side, by removing one of the two toxins(ethel alcohol &amp;amp; CO2)from the yeast, does this give them more room and less stress to ferment further? Since CO2 is toxic to yeast, does it inhibit the yeast's ability to fully ferment the larger amount of sugars in wine/mead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T22:07:44.947" Title="Degassing and it's effects on yeast" Tags="|yeast|wine|mead|co2|degassing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17670" CreationDate="2016-05-06T18:02:36.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ciders run a higher risk of infection from bacteria and more commonly a wild yeast. This is why everything the cider must touches needs to be sanitized with a product like starsan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing beer has the advantage of a boil and hop antimicrobial properties. But once the wort begins to chill it's vulnerable to infections, just not as much as a cider must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea in both is to get your pitched yeast to become the dominate microorganism as fast as possible. Best achieved with proper sanitation practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T18:02:36.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17673" CreationDate="2016-05-06T18:09:41.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tested this personally and have not been able to record any perceivable differences in SG readings. Sometimes degassing will invigorate a slow ferment but nothing more than a good stir would. I do see your math behind the ABV increase and I still believe that to be true as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Degassing is something you should be doing throughout primary and into secondary. CO2 can be toxic to yeast, stressing them out, and potentially producing some off flavors and aromas. Keep in mind, degassing is different than aeration; you're just trying to get the dissolved CO2 out of solution, not to whip the crap out of it. Basically, do it a few times during primary, before each SNA addition. Adding nutrients and then degassing is a sure way to end up with partially fermented honey all over your floor. I repeat: Degas and THEN add nutrients. I then tone it down a bit for the secondary until fermentation is over and CO2 stops being released from the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T18:09:41.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17667" CreationDate="2016-05-06T21:32:38.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do ciders and Apple wines a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not being a fan of chemical inhibitors, I crash and fine out the cider to brilliant clairity before kegging to limit suspended yeast.&#xA;I usually have about 4.5 gallons of cider to rack and add 1/2 gallon of store bought preservative free juice (usually the same juice that was fermented) to top off the keg. Then keep it refrigerated.  This backsweetens to my taste and is the simplest imo if you keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T21:32:38.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6324" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:58:02.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking you can. I was wondering the same thing last month. I had 7.5 lbs. of white wheat malt on hand and mashed it by itself. I used the brew in a bag method since I was concerned about a stuck sparge. Worked great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13659" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T22:58:02.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-08T22:10:11.397" Score="4" ViewCount="1172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to plant Hoop similar to Nelson Sauvin in Switzerland (Europe).&#xA;This NZ hop appears to be under licence, so there is no chance to buy rhizome or plants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nzhops.co.nz/variety/nelson-sauvin&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.nzhops.co.nz/variety/nelson-sauvin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a known alternative?&#xA;Where would it be possible to buy it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13582" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T09:07:40.310" Title="Is there a good alternative for protected Nelson Sauvin Hop?" Tags="|hops|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17686" CreationDate="2016-05-09T00:14:05.187" Score="1" ViewCount="1518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an aluminium counterflow wort chiller. To sanitize this I circulate the boiling wort through the chiller to clean and sanitize the inside &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¿Do you recommend any acid or alkaline product for this? &#xA;What can I do to make sure that is clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13588" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T10:44:06.307" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T17:17:42.287" Title="How to sanitize aluminium?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17667" CreationDate="2016-05-09T00:23:25.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try to add some Honey that has non fermentable sugars, this will make you cinder more alcoholic and more sweet.&#xA;Instead of trying to kill you yeast with chemical products you must try to add non fermentable sugars (dextrine).&#xA;Here read this link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cider.org.uk/part4.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cider.org.uk/part4.htm&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never make cinder, but for get more body and sweetnes in beer i mash at higher temp to get Alpha-Amylase generate more non fermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13588" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T00:23:25.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17687" CreationDate="2016-05-09T01:17:46.983" Score="3" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm was wondering if a keg could be on a horizontal (or slight angle) position and still provide a constant flux? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering this because I'm looking to buy a horizontal freezer  (which I'm going to tweek the temp control ) and put my kegs and serve draft beer from those. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone tried this and succed / failed ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12224" LastEditorUserId="12224" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T01:52:23.557" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T10:03:39.103" Title="Can Horizontal Kegging be achieved?" Tags="|equipment|kegging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17683" CreationDate="2016-05-09T02:10:22.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only and main problem I see is that the dip tubes in the kegs are made to be used with kegs in the vertical position.  That is to say, the bottom of a corny keg is concave, and dip tubes are cut to length and angled to have their end in the lowest (vertical) part of the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the keg was exactly horizontal, about 40% of the volume would be below the dip tube at it's &quot;lowest&quot; extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a couple of options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/ Orient the kegs &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; horizontally, but at an angle, and position the bend of the dip tubes to maximize drawing. I imagine at best you'll end up having about a half-gallon of &quot;dead space&quot; per keg, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2/ Create custom dip tubes that have a more aggressive bend and a custom length to draw all the beer from the keg at a pre-defined angle incline ... perhaps even 89 degree horizontal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(On a side note, I have to say this idea of having kegs mounted horizontally has never crossed my mind, before, but it's actually kind of clever. Pulling kegs in/out of a kegerator on their side (or, better, at say a 5 or 10-degree angle) seems like it could be a very good use of space.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T02:10:22.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17683" CreationDate="2016-05-09T03:04:08.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some corney kegs that have a straight dip tube which can be position to be the lowest point in a horizontal position with a slight incline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new torpedo legs are this way, also some older firestone kegs.. You can tell if they don't have a centered bottom, or simply open the lid on an empty keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see why they wouldn't function as you want, aside from possibly blowing foam a little before the last pour.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7qh6I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T03:12:57.973" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T03:12:57.973" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17681" CreationDate="2016-05-09T08:28:22.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chlorine or Caustic/Alkaline will corrode the oxide layer on aluminium; don't use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use a sanitizer that is based on Phosphoric acid or similar and another option would be an iodine solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can circulate boiling water through the chiller to ensure there is no residue before storage and again before usage; that will sanitize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T08:28:22.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17683" CreationDate="2016-05-09T10:50:01.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too much risk for beer in the gas dip too if you over fill or then get jostled for some reason.  Unless you modify the beverage dip tube you'll possibly be leaving more beer behind than you want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think managing multiple kegs that are horizontal (especially if stacked on top of one another) would be a nightmarish pain in the A$$!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking into this because the horizontal freezer is too short for your kegs you should look into building a collar out of wood.  A wooden collar to lift the lid is easy to do.  And it gives you a place to mount faucets without drilling into the freezer.  Google &quot;chest freezer collar&quot; and you'll see what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T10:03:39.103" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T10:03:39.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15497" CreationDate="2016-05-09T12:50:33.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried contacting SAB Miller and I got a flat &quot;no we don't do that&quot; response from them so I suppose overseas is the only option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13665" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T12:50:33.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="544" CreationDate="2016-05-09T15:42:10.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about sanitizing it then muddling it, than add it to your bottling bucket and pour your fermented beer over it. Similar to using mint for drinks in a bar the oils will break down and stay in bottles, or you could boil the mint in your priming sugar for boiling and make a simple syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13667" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T07:52:33.130" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T07:52:33.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T17:33:05.323" Score="2" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a beer that taste kind of like a mojito to try. I am thinking of doing 4lbs 2row and 4lb wheat with a lb of molasses to get around 5% abv. I am just wondering what hops to use and if anyone has an idea of a yeast to use, any comments would be helpful.&#xA;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13667" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T01:35:16.287" Title="Mojito beer help" Tags="|beer|hops|techniques|ingredients|fruit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17667" CreationDate="2016-05-09T17:38:17.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put my cider in the fridge for 3 days than filter it into a keg, then add apple cider, and a roll of frozen concentrate from the grocery store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13667" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T17:38:17.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14787" CreationDate="2016-05-09T18:20:37.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;did you take any gravity readings? If there is alcohol in it then you may have an contaminated batch, but you can give it away as a lambic and say it was intentional, if there is no alcohol your s.o.l&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13667" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T07:51:42.797" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T07:51:42.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1987" CreationDate="2016-05-09T18:26:07.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple beers brewed using coriander seeds(cilantro seeds), also I am not sure if there is enough oil in cilantro that you could impart the flavor through dry hopping, you would have grind it up fine, but then it would be like drinking a salad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13667" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T07:53:18.257" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T07:53:18.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12616" CreationDate="2016-05-09T18:29:07.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with extracts kits, I started with a IPA, and that turned out well. I next tried to make 2 golden ale's which both turned out terribly, probably because my temperatures where way off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13667" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T07:53:48.230" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T07:53:48.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17699" CreationDate="2016-05-09T20:32:37.867" Score="2" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to make dunkelweizen style beer but it became maybe a with higher alcohol content. And now I think it is not the style I wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ingredients:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheat Malt pale - 1kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Munich Malt Type 1 - 0.4kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CARAFA® Special Type 1 - 0.1kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hops - HALLERTAU Trad. - 5g&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yeast - Safbrew WB-06 - 11g&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mashing water was 5 liters for 1 hour with varying temperature between 60 C and 75 C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I added 1 liter water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gravity before boiling was 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiling 1 hour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.5 grams hops added 15 minutes after start of boiling and the other 2.5 grams 10 minutes before the end of boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gravity after boiling was 17.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation for 3 weeks ant about 20 - 21 C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't remember the gravity after fermentation, but for sure know that the online calculators gave me ABV 7.9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to measure the bitterness and color. The beer is a little bit more bitter for my taste, but my friends say it is not too bitter. The beer has some strawberry and black olive flavor and interesting aroma. I drink homemade beer for first time and I actually don't know what to expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the information above can someone tell me if is it dunkelweizen or if not then what style of beer is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13297" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T02:01:01.960" Title="Is my beer dunkelweizen style?" Tags="|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17690" CreationDate="2016-05-09T22:26:23.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmmn that’s an interesting one I would probably drop the molasses and swap to agave syrup and use Citra hops 3-5 grams and then do a dry hop with a bunch of mint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also since a mojito has a very clean flavor profile I would probably do a lager of some sort so that at least narrows down your yeast a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your talking about making a beer like a mojito mixed drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: Keep us updated I'm interested on how this would turn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13445" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T22:26:23.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T22:57:45.000" Score="3" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live at 9200 feet I am on my second batch of beer. Both batches did not really chug as I call it.First batch tastes great but no carbonation Second batch yeast rose up but went flat in 1 day just added fishtank aerator. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13670" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T08:03:49.867" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T13:03:34.763" Title="Altitude and Yeast" Tags="|yeast|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17697" CreationDate="2016-05-10T00:34:05.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At that elevation you're only about 4 psi lower than sea level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it would seem wort wouldn't hold oxygen as well for the yeast at that elevation I think it's negligible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always add more oxygen if the yeast seems slugish, but I would stop once you know alcohol is present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds more like the yeast is stressed from poor nutients, health, or pitch volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: let me start again, &lt;strong&gt;gratz on your first brews&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;What you're seeing can be normal fermentation, the foam (krausen) will always fall back in. Your beers Carbonation doesn't happen at this point. Carbonation is achieved by adding a priming sugar when bottling, or by force if kegging. Some kits may have a single vessel for fermenting and serving where the fermentor is sealed like a keg when fermentation nears the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T13:03:34.763" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T13:03:34.763" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17695" CreationDate="2016-05-10T00:38:34.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the 2015 BJCP description which a dunkleweisse is judged against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Impression&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;A moderately dark German wheat beer with a distinctive banana-and-clove yeast character, supported by a toasted bread or caramel malt flavor. Highly carbonated and refreshing, with a creamy, fluffy texture and light finish that encourages drinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aroma&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Moderate phenols (usually clove) and fruity esters (usually banana). The balance and intensity of the phenol and ester components can vary but the best examples are reasonably balanced. Optionally, a low to moderate vanilla character and/or faint bubblegum notes may be present, but should not dominate. Hop aroma ranges from low to none, and may be lightly floral, spicy, or herbal. A light to moderate wheat aroma (which might be perceived as bready, doughy or grainy) may be present and is often accompanied by a caramel, bread crust, or richer malt aroma. The malt aroma may moderate the phenols and esters somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Appearance&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Light copper to mahogany brown in color. A very thick, moussy, long-lasting off-white head is characteristic. The high protein content of wheat impairs clarity in this traditionally unfiltered style, although the level of haze is somewhat variable. Suspended yeast sediment can contribute to cloudiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flavor&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Low to moderately strong banana and clove flavor. The balance and intensity of the phenol and ester components can vary but the best examples are reasonably balanced and fairly prominent. Optionally, a very light to moderate vanilla character and/or faint bubblegum notes can accentuate the banana flavor, sweetness and roundness; neither should be dominant if present. The soft, somewhat bready, doughy, or grainy flavor of wheat is complementary, as is a richer caramel, toast, or bread crust flavor. The malty richness can be low to medium-high, and supports the yeast character. A roasted malt character is inappropriate. A spicy, herbal, or floral hop flavor is very low to none, and hop bitterness is very low to low. Well-rounded, flavorful, often somewhat malty palate with a relatively dry finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mouthfeel&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Medium-light to medium-full body. The texture of wheat as well as yeast in suspension imparts the sensation of a fluffy, creamy fullness that may progress to a lighter finish, aided by moderate to high carbonation. Effervescent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comments&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The presence of Munich and/or Vienna-type barley malts gives this style a deep, rich barley malt character not found in a weissbier. Often known as Dunkelweizen , particularly in the United States.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;History&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Bavaria has a wheat beer brewing traditional hundreds of years old, but the brewing right was reserved for Bavarian royalty until the late 1700s. Old-fashioned Bavarian wheat beer was often dark, as were most beer of the day. Pale weissbier started to become popular in the 1960s, but traditional dark wheat beer remained somewhat of an old person’s drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ingredients&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;By German brewing tradition, at least 50% of the grist must be malted wheat, although some versions use up to 70%; the remainder is usually Munich, Vienna, or dark or caramel wheat malts, or Pilsner malt with color malt. A decoction mash is traditional, but infrequently used today. Weizen ale yeasts produce the typical spicy and fruity character, although extreme fermentation temperatures can affect the balance and produce off-flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comparison&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Reflecting the best yeast and wheat character of a weissbier blended with the malty richness of a Munich dunkel. The banana and clove character is often less apparent than in a weissbier due to the increased maltiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Examples&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Ayinger Ur-Weisse, Ettaler Weissbier Dunkel, Franziskaner Hefe-Weisse Dunkel, Hacker-Pschorr Weisse Dark, Tucher Dunkles Hefe Weizen, Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier Dunkel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vital Statistics&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IBUs: 10 - 18&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG: 1.044 - 1.056&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV: 4.3 - 5.6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG: 1.010 - 1.014&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T02:01:01.960" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T02:01:01.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17702" CreationDate="2016-05-10T01:30:22.683" Score="3" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a recipe for a wild strawberry blonde (I recently asked for &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/17387/cleaning-prepping-frozen-strawberries-for-a-strawberry-blonde&quot;&gt;tips on prepping fresh strawberries&lt;/a&gt;). Well, I'm finally going to brew this, but...corn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blonde recipe I'm looking at right now has ±1.125# of flaked corn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tips and thoughts on a grain substitute?&lt;/strong&gt; Any general tips or resource links on grain substitution is also welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get it, corn is a respectable adjunct. But it's also the characteristic of many lagers and pilsners I dislike the most. And 20+ years of homebrewing (on and off) and appreciating craft beer, corn on the nose and palate really turn me off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3467" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T15:59:35.717" Title="Replace corn adjunct of recipe with...?" Tags="|ingredients|adjuncts|grain|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-10T03:23:23.410" Score="1" ViewCount="685" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading some reviews online I'm most definitely sure the malt extract is no good, I was wondering if the yeast would be any good (just curious). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13672" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T19:24:50.367" Title="Mr. Beer kit expired in 1999" Tags="|kits|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17700" CreationDate="2016-05-10T03:28:17.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sound more like a Cream Ale recipe, Blonde Ale shouldn't have corn. It can be up to 25% wheat though, I would replace the flaked corn with flaked wheat, or just 2-row to remove it completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this Strawberry Blonde before, it turned out nice. Used real strawberries, ditched the fruit extract, did all grain. Recipe is in the dl docs.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/strawberry-blonde-ale-grain-beer-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.morebeer.com/products/strawberry-blonde-ale-grain-beer-kit.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T03:28:17.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17701" CreationDate="2016-05-10T03:45:58.077" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;17 year old dried yeast? Which costs maybe $5 new? And is the most critical factor in the production of beer? (Brewers make wort, yeast make beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T03:45:58.077" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17680" CreationDate="2016-05-10T09:07:40.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am sorry to say this but there isn't really a substitute for Nelson Sauvin it is a rather unique hop. Some people suggest: Riwaka, Motueka; but they are not to my mind a reasonable substitute. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really think you are going to struggle to find anywhere selling NS rhizomes, they don't seem to be available for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T09:07:40.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17700" CreationDate="2016-05-10T10:30:56.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think wheat when I think fruit beers.&#xA;So I'd say 1:1 replacement with wheat.  You could experiment with traditional malted, flaked or torrified wheat.  In some ways, the are similar in others they are not.  I like torrified wheat used in small amounts like you need here as a substitute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also suggest table sugar at a lower replacement ratio.  This would keep the beer dry like with the corn, but without the corn flavor contribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also just go with more base malt without too much trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T10:30:56.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17708" CreationDate="2016-05-10T13:19:33.470" Score="2" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;HI I am making a home brew mixed fruit cider (bulldog brews) I have followed the instructions and after a couple of days of fermenting I got a little frothing but after 7 days not much happening on top and tried to take a gravity reading but thermometer just sank to bottom. is there anything i can do with it now or is it ruined was going to leave it another 7 days but dont know whether i should stir it or add more yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks &#xA;kevin statter        &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13676" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T10:18:30.430" Title="making Home brew cider" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17701" CreationDate="2016-05-10T14:21:43.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's old. Its' ingredients are toast for a drinkable beer. Yeast is dead for sure. Hops will have nothing to offer either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the extract you can still make use of for yeast starters, just crash and decant the beer off. But still wouldn't be as good as using fresh DME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardware should be fine, just check the plastics for cracks etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T14:21:43.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17706" CreationDate="2016-05-10T14:28:03.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ciders don't really get a krausen head like beer, not enough proteins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your hydrometer completely sank, then the gravity is far below its limits usually 0.990 which means it's very dry and has attenuated well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taste it and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T14:28:03.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17690" CreationDate="2016-05-10T15:04:18.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you mean the mojito cocktail, made with mint and lime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A North Carolina brewery called NoDa Brewing does a mojito-inspired beer called the NoDajito. You might want to look into that for inspiration. They went all the way with the mojito theme and used mint leaves and lime zest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not quite sure why you'd want to add molasses to the beer, or any adjuncts for that matter. I haven't used molasses personally, but from what I've heard it can give strange flavors when used as more than 5% of the beer. With a whole pound of it in your recipe, you'd have over 10%. If you DO decide to use molasses, you should definitely go for the lighter grade syrup, rather than the darker. With a mojito as a theme, a light beer seems more appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for hops, American hops can give a lot of citrusy flavors. Something like Citra, Mosaic or Amarillo may be a good bet. I've tried beer heavy on those hops and it can sometimes taste like they actually had fruit juice added to them. Those hops usually tend to be more grapefruit/orange than lime-flavored, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with the beer! It sounds like it'll be interesting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13655" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T15:04:18.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17681" CreationDate="2016-05-10T15:23:30.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest circulating boiling WATER through the chiller first to sanitize it, rather than using the wort to sanitize it. In that scenario, anything unclean in those tubes ends up in your beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually boil some water in my kettle before the actual boil (either while the beer is mashing for all-grain, or before anything else for extract) and send that through all of my pipes and tubes and equipment, to make sure they're all sanitized. Having seen the muddy, dirty water that comes out afterward, I would NEVER want that in my beer! It's shocking what kind of stuff can build up in those dark, damp environments, even when you rinse them out again after the brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13655" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T15:23:30.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17681" CreationDate="2016-05-10T17:17:42.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just boil my wort chiller in the wort toward the end of the boil before I use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T17:17:42.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17721" CreationDate="2016-05-10T20:27:48.790" Score="4" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to try kegging for the first time and I'm wondering how much conditioning time might be lost in the process (assuming the keg is refrigerated and force-carbonated immediately after filling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When bottling the beer gets another couple of weeks or more at room temperature to further condition/age. When kegging the lower temperatures will likely be inhibiting this some, if not entirely, which makes me wonder if I should leave it in the fermenter longer than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I'm at the point where I would normally bottle (say two weeks into primary for a lower gravity ale), would that be too early to keg? Should I leave it longer to account for earlier cooling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T20:55:17.593" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T14:03:59.993" Title="Fermenting/Conditioning Longer When Kegging" Tags="|kegging|conditioning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17668" CreationDate="2016-05-10T21:53:05.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always use the tap. You really want to minimise the number of times you open up the fermenter as it can lose some of the protective CO2 layer on top and can let wild yeast or other nasties in. Dipping things into your beer is another thing you want to minimise to reduce disturbing the beer and the risk of infection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you open the tap slowly and just allow a small flow of beer, you can check gravity with virtually no disturbance and no risk of infection. The only thing to watch is that your airlock isn't overfilled with water because when you open the tap, it will bubble in reverse and you don't want any of that airlock liquid splashing into the fermenter. Some people put vodka in the airlock which would probably be sterile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's early in the fermentation it's okay to disturb it a little. Get a friend to help you gently move the fermenter onto a milk crate or something to raise it up and give you access to the tap. If it's late in fermentation I wouldn't move it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13384" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T21:53:05.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17712" CreationDate="2016-05-10T22:38:07.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The safest way is to force carb is to plug it in at serving pressure (12 psi for most styles) and refridgerate at the same time, leave it undisturbed for 5-7 days. This will also fine your beer with a cold crash, first couple pints will have murk but clear from there. &lt;strong&gt;This will shave a week off your normal brew to serve time over bottle conditioning.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you get more comfortable, there's ways to have you beer carbonated even before it's fully chilled reducing keg to serve time to less than 8 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a couple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use 30 psi attached to out lock, roll or swirl for 5 minutes. Bleed off pressure then attach to serving pressure as normal (in lock). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a carbonation stone / lid. Either as above or plug and forget. &lt;em&gt;Messes with in keg fining, risk of manifold contamination, regulator damage. Make sure this beers line is the only open line.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plug and forget into the out lock cuts the top down method time in half. &lt;em&gt;Messes with in keg fining, risk of manifold contamination, regulator damage. Make sure this beers line is the only open line.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T14:03:59.993" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T14:03:59.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17712" CreationDate="2016-05-11T00:19:57.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbonating and Aging are two diferent things.&#xA;Aging depends on the beer style this is to make the flavors be more consistent or mantain the foam or some other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for example if you brew an IPA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brew&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment 2 weeks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keg 4 days Carbonate and Cold Crash (gelatin)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drink Asap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a Imperial Stout:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brew&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment 2 weeks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold crash 2 weeks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Age 2 Months On Keg Or bottle  (depending on ABV for 9-12)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drink and Enjoy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its all depending on beer style. I recommend on for normal beers this intinerary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brew&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Weeks on primary (i dont do secondary but you can)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Week On Keg with gelatin for clearing and 2Bar of CO2 for carbonating&#xA;Every 2 or 3 days drop 1 glass of beer (or drink it) until its crystaline becouse the sediment go to the bottom of the keg and you must get rid of that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13588" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T00:19:57.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-11T00:32:14.353" Score="1" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a new homebrewer and I just finished racking my second batch of beer, a one-gallon Irish stout from extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first batch came out great, and made six delicious bottles. But, when I took the carboy out to rack the beer this time, about half of the original volume seemed to be missing - only enough for three bottles. There was also an unusually large amount of trub on the bottom, way more than I had in my first batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both batches were the same kind of beer, from the same supplier, and I tried to follow the exact same steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause this discrepancy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13679" LastEditorUserId="13679" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T19:19:06.150" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T19:19:06.150" Title="What happened to all my beer?" Tags="|racking|trub|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17716" CreationDate="2016-05-11T01:56:23.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gratz on your second brew!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just speculation from the limited info. Detailed steps and ingredients will help in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If there is actual liquid volume missing from the fermentor, then it left in the form of foam out the airlock or someone drank it. If there's no mess, then the later&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some common causes of large beer stealing trub beds. Trub takes up space and reduces your final yield, but doesn't reduce total volume in fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;large cell count from high gravity beers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high floculant yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;misuse of whirlfloc or Irish moss. This should be left behind in the whirlpool. Often overdosed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fruit additions adding plant material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dry hopping or transfering boil hop additions material to fermentor. Can be limited by proper use of hop bags and boil finnings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are many more, this is just what comes to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T12:41:13.957" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T12:41:13.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-11T05:43:01.177" Score="6" ViewCount="1114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate making yeast starters. I want to make 5 gallons of wort and fill up a bunch of mason jars, and use these mason jars to make my yeast starters in the future. I also want to store the mason jars at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of heating a solution of star san to 140F and filling the mason jars with this solution. I would cool down the wort to around 140F before filling the mason jars. The reason for this of course is to prevent the non-pyrex mason jars from breaking due to the extreme change in temperatures. I would cap the mason jars and store them at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question: will this procedure work?&lt;/strong&gt; I am making several assumptions; for example: star san at 140F sanitizes properly, wort at 140F can't become contaminated, and the mason jar seal is air tight and won't result in an infection at room temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T18:49:21.150" Title="Storing mason jars of wort, for yeast starters, at room temperature" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17718" CreationDate="2016-05-11T06:02:24.530" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without pressure canning, unfermented wort doesn't have a low enough pH to be shelf stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/starter-made-easy-pressure-cooking-your-starter-wort-ahead-time&quot;&gt;The Maltose Falcons website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The process is almost identical to the one that you or your family may have used to preserve peaches, tomatoes, pickles, etc. The normal preservation method is hot water bath canning, but since wort is a low acid food you must use the more intense method of pressure canning (per the FDA). So to safely can your wort, you'll need DME (or wort), some yeast nutrient, a pressure cooker and a case or two of Quart (or pint) Mason Jars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T06:02:24.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17718" CreationDate="2016-05-11T10:19:24.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sanitation is not sterilization.  You might find a couple jars out of a batch last longer than others.  But the only way to be sure is to buy a pressure canner.  They are relatively cheap and can be used in the kitchen later for cooking as well.  Mason jars make great containers, but lets not lose site of what they are really made for... sterile canning.  In fact, one of your assumptions is the lid sealing properly.  Simply screwing on the top of a two piece mason jar lid (the disk and the ring) does not make a &quot;proper&quot; seal as designed.  Its the cooling effect post the high heat that creates a vacuum and sucks a loose lid down tight and makes the true seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the option here, unless you want to purchase a small countertop autoclave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wort that is not sterile may eventually start to grow stuff.  Could be as simple as innocuous mold, yeast or bacteria.  But you could also start growing something that would make you ill, like Clostridium botulinum.  The spores can only be destroyed through high heat.  Star-san doesn't touch it effectively.  And it doesn't have to grow much.  Even if it just gets started in a jar of unfermented wort, it will propagate more once you make your starter and you may not notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T10:19:24.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17712" CreationDate="2016-05-11T10:42:06.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The time for when a beer is ready to drink is process and recipe dependent.  The beauty of kegging is that you'll see how the beer changes with a short pour everyday.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of my beers go from fermentor to keg and I slowly carbonate.  Takes a couple days, maybe a full week for full on carbonation.  But they pretty much taste great at that point.  Changes in the flavor are usually due to more yeast flocculation more than anything else.  If the fermentation process was spot on their isn't anything magical happening when it sits longer (bottle or keg, room temp or cold).&#xA;I used to think &quot;green&quot; beer was a thing, but at the homebrew scale I think it really is mostly fermentation dependent.  Most pro breweries turn beer over way faster than we do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess my answer is: welcome to kegging.  You've made that process easier for yourself.  Now really focus on your fermentation to improve the beer and shorten the time needed for &quot;conditioning&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T10:42:06.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17701" CreationDate="2016-05-11T12:14:05.233" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast isnt so much the worry, its the extract and grains.  Ive brewed with LME's that have sat on the shelf for a year or so and it leads to a very unpleasant cardboard taste and thats the nice way to describe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13681" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T12:14:05.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17718" CreationDate="2016-05-11T14:26:43.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's much simpler to use 1/2 gallon or gallon plastic juice bottles. Freeze or refridgerate the boiled wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using I bring my starter flask of wort to boil for a few minutes, chill and inoculate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get that mason jars at cellar temps would save fridge space, but if you use larger bottles keeping a couple gallons of wort in the back of the fridge/freezer isn't too bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T14:26:43.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17673" CreationDate="2016-05-11T22:07:44.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABV is Alcohol By Volume. Carbonation does not change the volume. So it would not effect the ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c02 is dissolved into the liquid. Meaning that the c02 molecules fit in between the liquid molecules and do not change the total volume of the liquid. As long as the c02 is trapped the liquid volume is unchanged, once released (bubbles) the gas displaces liquid volume making a larger total volume which can cause issues with volume calculations during this phase of release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T22:07:44.947" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17668" CreationDate="2016-05-12T09:50:15.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting those bucket lids off is a bothersome task. I always use the spigot straight into the test jar. Then I spray the closed spigot with a spray bottle filled with starsan to clean it after I pull a sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T09:50:15.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12616" CreationDate="2016-05-12T10:42:51.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first kit was a 20 min boil kit. It was all pre-hopped extract and a packet of dry yeast. Here is a link they are easy and fun and make surprisingly good beer. If your going to attempt all grain I would go with a brown ale or a hefeweizen as they tend to be more forgiving. Happy Brewing!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/homebrewing-ingredients/recipe-kits/20-minute-boil-kits.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.midwestsupplies.com/homebrewing-ingredients/recipe-kits/20-minute-boil-kits.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T10:42:51.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13204" CreationDate="2016-05-13T05:47:05.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use a single 50ft stainless coil and then purchase the smallest cooler I could find that would house the coil and still have room for ice. I don't know anyone that has used a coil smaller than 50ft a 25ft coil may be sufficient but I can't say for sure. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T05:47:05.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17635" CreationDate="2016-05-13T05:53:05.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to find out what material the chiller is made of and then you can find the proper cleaner to use. If it is stainless almost anything that isn't chlorine based would be fine to use. Aluminum on the other hand doesn't fare well with oxygen based cleaners. If it is copper oxalic acid would be best such as the product bar keepers friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastEditorUserId="2788" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T22:37:07.353" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T22:37:07.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17731" CreationDate="2016-05-13T15:34:29.500" Score="7" ViewCount="3448" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a history of people using oak barrels to age and mature beer. These days people often use bourbon soaked oak chips to flavour beer in the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have seen people asking about using maple, spruce and pine on the site? Regarding, spruce/pine they have been looking for a pine/spruce flavour that you would get from the needles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What experience have people had using these and are there any woods you should avoid due to health/food safety risks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-07-31T13:20:49.970" LastActivityDate="2019-07-31T13:20:49.970" Title="What woods can be safely used to flavour/age beer?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|aging|food-safety|wood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17730" CreationDate="2016-05-13T17:05:05.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be interested in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wood Toxicity and Allergen Chart&lt;/a&gt; presented at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wood-database.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Wood Database&lt;/a&gt;. With very important warning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just because any given wood is not listed on the chart, does not mean that it is completely safe to use. It simply means that adverse reactions have not been reported as of yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, &lt;strong&gt;there is over 200 kinds of wood&lt;/strong&gt; in this one source. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com?q=toxic+wood&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;More in others.&lt;/a&gt; And that's only about wood, no say about wood smoke for smoked grain, spruce tips, et cetera. Listing all wood-related dangers is far too broad for QA format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Only reliable way is to research particular kind you think you want to use it, and the way you want to use.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, some choices are known as safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oak is usually OK, but don't use raw. Way too much tannins. Either use roasted oak, or chips from a barrel that had stronger alcohol maturing in it. That way tannins will either be thermally neutralized or washed out. Similar precautions about other leafy tree woods, if they have tannins in significant amount and are not on toxicity lists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For conifers, and some leaf trees, there is an issue of resin. Some resins are poisonous. Most have bad taste. Succinic acid, acetylsalicylic acid and others may be found in amounts that can ruin the taste. Or not, depends on kind of wood, season it was cut, way it was treated when it dried, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T17:05:05.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17730" CreationDate="2016-05-13T23:08:52.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would stick to the wood chips that are available from your homebrew supplier. There is a large selection available.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One may be temped to cut up an old liquor barrel or cubing a known safe species of wood.  But care needs to be taken not to contaminate the wood with the cutting tool, saws have coatings and oils etc. The chips made for brewing have been processed with a clean shear so they are contaminate free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many woods intended as builing material have been treated, or at least been processed with saws and plainers that drink oil. That's not to say you can't find decent maple or oak at your lumber store. Just use caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-05-15T02:06:09.570" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T02:06:09.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17736" CreationDate="2016-05-14T22:05:30.620" Score="3" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed with what I now realise is a rather old &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.williamsbrewing.com/KOLSCH-HOME-BREWING-BEER-KIT-P1329.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Williams Brewing Kolsch&lt;/a&gt; kit.  The yeast is Wyeast 2565 Kolsch and the packet has already expanded.  I have no idea when it expanded, so I assume it must be months ago and that the yeast has already died/gone dormant.  The manufacture date is 07 Jul 2014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already ordered a replacement yeast packet which will hopefully arrive towards the beginning the week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have chilled my wort and it is now sitting in the fridge, where I can control its temperature.  Right now I have it at normal refrigeration temperature (4°C).  I will raise up the temperature suitable for fermentation before any pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pitch the expired yeast packet now and just let it be?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pitch the expired yeast packet now, then also pitch the new one when it arrives?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Or throw away the old one and wait for the new one to arrive (and expand) then pitch that?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Something else?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3845" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T01:20:31.593" Title="Use expired yeast or wait for new yeast to arrive?" Tags="|yeast|pitch|timing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17734" CreationDate="2016-05-14T22:19:36.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would take some of the wort and make a starter with the yeast. If the yeast is good it should start fermenting sometime in the first 24 hours. If it doesn't I would throw it in the drain and wait for the new yeast to arrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13691" LastEditorUserId="13691" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T22:29:10.257" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T22:29:10.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17734" CreationDate="2016-05-14T23:17:41.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just keep it refrigerated. If your new yeast are to arrive in two or three days, it'll be faster than testing old one. And assuming old one is dead, keeping wort at fermentation temperature is far worse than keeping it refrigerated. It's already chilled, keep it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would try to do, and I hope you did if it was possible, would be to pour hot wort into container you are keeping it in, and close while hot. And maybe seal it the same way our grannies sealed pickle jars - by boiling whole container for a moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T23:17:41.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17734" CreationDate="2016-05-15T01:20:31.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't risk piching your expired yeast for a kolsch, this is a style that should have very low, subtle to no yeast esters. Your old yeast may be still have a partial viable cell count, but it would produce too many growth esters for the style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was a style that has strong ester profile (belgian, wiezen etc). I would pitch the old yeast in hopes it makes some progress while fresh yeast arrives. Even if it was all dead, it would serve as nutrients for the fresh yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future do a starter a couple days ahead of time, that way you can reschedule brewing if you can't grow enough yeast in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T01:20:31.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-15T15:02:41.517" Score="3" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to predict the litres/hour vaporised during the boil, so I can adjust the amount of sparging water accordingly. Is there an easy way of doing this a priori by utilising other known parameters, like for example the surface area of the kettle, or must I resort to post-hoc empirical methods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I realise from comments that the common way to do this is establishing a percentage of expected fluid loss for your individual set of equipment, but i feel that this is a somewhat unsystematic approach to it all. If there were some known constants roughly representing water at a boil at an altitude of say 0-100 metres, with a relative humidity of 30-40 %, that would be a step in the right direction (after all, homebrewers doesn't need very accurate estimates).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked at some equations online (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/q/91996&quot;&gt;https://physics.stackexchange.com/q/91996&lt;/a&gt;), but haven't managed to figure them out properly (I am not a physicist).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13277" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:40:18.510" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T13:31:17.443" Title="How do I predict vaporisation during the boil?" Tags="|boil|water|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17738" CreationDate="2016-05-15T16:13:22.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not seen a calculator that's reliable. Could be calculated but too many variables: surface area, altitude, actual wort temperature etc. It's much easier to just do a boil test to establish your brewhouse boil off rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example my brewhouse boil off rate with a keggle is 1 gallon an hour at modest rolling boil. So for 90 min boil, 12 gallon batch I start with 13.5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-05-15T17:49:59.257" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T17:49:59.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17738" CreationDate="2016-05-16T03:01:20.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are actually looking for here is not the amount of evaporation you will be working with it is the amount of vaporization. This is a technical but important distinction the overwhelming amount of water loss is from the boil not from evaporation. Now this can be calculated but unfortunately I won’t be able to give you a magic bullet for this there are simply to many variables such as ambient temp the thermal conductivity of your pot how windy it is that day and many more besides but this equation will get you most of the way there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;((BTU&lt;em&gt;T&lt;/em&gt;EF)/38.5)18=ml lost&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Three variables in that equation are BTU which is the BTUs produces by your burner in an hour, EF the efficiency of transfer of those BTUs into your pot and T the time in hours of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now how to determine your efficiency. I have made a formula that should let us do that with one empirical measurement. Now you will want to do this in conditions similar to your planed boil day or ideally you could do it during brew day and then add additional water to get you to your pre boil volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(BTU*T)/(((100-((ST/1.8)-32))*mL*4.2)/1055)/100=EF&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where BTU is the BTU per hour output of your burner ST is the starting temp in F of your water mL is the volume of the water you are heating in milliliters and T is time in hours that it takes for your water to reach a boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be done while stirring if not constantly then often and the final time should be counted when your water just starts to boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example let us say I bring 5 gallons of water to a boil over this burner rated 210000 BTU/h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewsupply.com/bayou-classic-banjo-cooker.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwvOC5BRCb_8yNmZ_ls9IBEiQACTz8vqK1aBUVKy4a-gsW36KYFN-Zruopcm3O0JzHqAtKo3EaAgel8P8HAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewsupply.com/bayou-classic-banjo-cooker.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwvOC5BRCb_8yNmZ_ls9IBEiQACTz8vqK1aBUVKy4a-gsW36KYFN-Zruopcm3O0JzHqAtKo3EaAgel8P8HAQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us say that this water just finished mashing and is at 160 F and that it took one hour to reach a boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So our efficiency calculation would look like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(210000*1)/(((100-((160/1.8)-32))*18927*4.2)/1055)/100 = EF =.646&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we would put that EF value in the first calculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we plan on doing a 90-minute boil so we set T equal to 1.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;((210000*1.5*.646)/38.5)18=95138mL=~25gal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this example we would need to add 25 gallons of liquid to the pot bringing total volume at boil time to 30 gal. Suffice it to say my example got a bit away from me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now all of this math assumes you are using a constant heat source in this instance we would have that burner running at full heat the entire time if you reduced the heat at all you would need to adjust the calculations accordingly by reducing the BTU value in the last equation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13445" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T03:01:20.217" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17743" CreationDate="2016-05-16T14:41:09.220" Score="2" ViewCount="11103" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mead tastes sour like dry white wine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a batch of mead this January, just under 10L.&#xA;It was made from honey that had fermented a bit (I got it cheap), but I boiled it with the water, so that would have been killed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was poured on two 5L jugs that were disinfected, and added some herb &quot;tea&quot; (also boiled), thyme in one, christmas-themed spices in the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used port-yeast.&#xA;I have previously made a batch from the same batch of honey that turned out fine, but then I used baking yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I tried pouring over the mead from the jugs to bottles as it had cleared beautifully and stopped bubbling. The tops of the jugs has been covered with standard fermenting tubes with water in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I poured, I tasted a bit, and it tastes nothing like mead.It's very sour, like a dry white wine. I don't like dry wine, so I think it tastes awful. But if I actually made honey wine, I don't want to toss it but rather give it away to someone who does like dry wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is more likely? Is it honey wine, honey vinegar or just spoiled?&#xA;Or did I just make a very dry mead? Is the yeast to blame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12506" LastActivityDate="2017-05-28T22:04:34.157" Title="My mead tastes sour. Did I make honey wine or is it spoiled?" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17741" CreationDate="2016-05-16T18:03:44.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had to guess I'd say what happened is that when you made it with bakers yeast you did not completely ferment the honey. If I remember correctly, bread yeast only ferments to ~5% abv and port yeast will ferment to closer to 20-25% abv. This would have dried your wine out completely. This is just an educated guess based on what you describe but if it dosen't taste foul or smell off and only tastes really dry I think it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13445" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T09:24:11.217" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T09:24:11.217" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17741" CreationDate="2016-05-16T18:50:09.350" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honey shouldn't be heated above 140°F or the organic acid Hydroxymethylfurfural (HMS) is formed.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24214851&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Toxic compounds in honey.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list of its negative effects is long, causing death in test animals, fatal to bees, and other negative effects in fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many dark beers that have Maillard malt notes like a dopplebock have elevated levels of HMS too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This acid may be why the mead is sour.&lt;/em&gt; With a dry fermentation there is no sweetness to balance the acid taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's not much science on the effects on humans, though their is a RDA of the compound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2017-05-28T22:04:34.157" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-16T19:57:15.050" Score="3" ViewCount="1768" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read on Wikipedia that beer is a really ancient beverage brewed many millenia ago. However, thermometer is only several hundred centuries old, and electricity is an even newer invention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is it possible to brew beer without thermometers and electric heating elements (or gas stoves)? My opinion is that both are really necessary. Without a thermometer, you cannot know the temperature of mashing. If the temperature is too high, you have too much sugars that are not fermentable, and if the temperature is too low, the beer will become too dry. All of this, of course, assumes that one has approximately the correct temperature for the enzymes that convert starches to sugars. It is very hard for me to understand how one could have the temperature even approximately correct, because the mashing temperatures are so high that feeling the temperature with your fingers is not possible. So, my intuition is that without a thermometer, even converting the starches to sugars should be very hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if you don't have electric heating elements or gas stoves, it is almost impossible to control the rate of heating. With heating being done by burning wood, the control is very crude and the time constants of control are long. So, even if thermometers had been available in ancient times, controlling the temperature of the mash would be very hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part of boiling, of course, is easy because water in liquid form cannot exist above 100 degrees Celcius. Chilling the wort might be tricky, but there is plenty of evidence that even the &quot;no chill&quot; method can work. Fermentation temperature control obviously requires a solution, but fermentation temperature is not as critical as mashing temperature, and fermentation temperature can be approximately measured by feeling the temperature with your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody here brewed beer without measuring the mashing temperature and without using a temperature-controlled oven? If so, did it go well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13694" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T18:38:05.633" Title="How was beer brewed in ancient times without thermometers and electricity?" Tags="|mashing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10253" CreationDate="2016-05-16T20:16:19.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have reason to believe that your concerns about the swamp cooler temperature differing from the fermentation chamber temperature are not based in reality. I calculated that putting one ice pack in the swamp cooler should reduce temperature by about 2.3 degrees Celcius if the heat transfer between the ice pack, the swamp cooler and the fermentation chamber is ideal. I have approximately the same amount of water in the fermentation chamber and in the swamp cooler. Now, if there is practically no heat transfer between the swamp cooler and the fermentation chamber, the temperature of the swamp cooler would rise by about 4.6 degrees Celcius (but one could ask the valid question of why the swamp cooler is used in the first place, then, if that was the case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested what happens if I put one ice pack in the swamp cooler. Temperature reduced by about 2.1 degrees, but there was a long delay of about an hour. This is close to the predicted 2.3 degrees Celcius temperature decrease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't actually measured the temperature difference between the fermenting beer and the swamp cooler because I don't want that oxygen gets to the fermentation chamber, but based on this simple test of putting one ice pack on the swamp cooler, I believe heat transfer between the fermentation chamber and swamp cooler is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could of course calculate how great is the heat transfer rate given the area and thickness of plastic that I have, and how great is the hear produced by completely fermenting the beer. Then when assuming a particular fermentation rate, one could calculate the temperature difference. I don't believe the difference is large. But I'm satisfied with my simple experiment of putting one ice pack on the swamp cooler and seeing that part of the coolness must go to the fermentation chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13694" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T20:16:19.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17745" CreationDate="2016-05-16T21:31:07.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's simple - experience. Brewers practiced under more experienced brewers. After few years, they could tell by hand - literally - if temperature is right, and they could taste if it's as sweet as it should be. That was how mashing was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mashing temperature is actually low enough to put your finger in. I can keep my finger in mash for about 4 heartbeats at about 62°C, and two at 72°C. Not even one at mash-out. And in old times mashing was done in wooden barrels or clay pots, too. Temperature on the outside was raising significantly slower, thus easier to correct. last but not least, one could always learn to do things &quot;by the rote&quot; - &quot;for one pot of malt, use three barrels of boiling water and half of a barrel of spring water&quot;, things like that. It would give pretty consistent results, at least at given month in given location. But as you probably noticed, some beers are even named after months, so that's not unlikely. Only brew märzen in March and you do not need any corrections for water temperatures etc, once you know proportions, you can use them each March.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rate of heating, why, of course they didn't. You might want to read about decoction mashing. It is considered more difficult now, but before we got that control, it was easier. Main mash tuns wasn't heated at all for the most part of beer history. And of course simpler styles used single-temperature mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation temperature control was trivial. You knew which beers you wanted to brew when and where. This one only in March. That one only in December and October. And that one needed to be fermented in this convenient cave. And that was all to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chilling is trivial. Once the beer no longer any warm to the touch, it's safe to pitch. And in case of wild yeast fermentation, you didn't even need to bother. It was &quot;pitched&quot; all the time, so when it cooled enough, it got it's yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T21:31:07.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17745" CreationDate="2016-05-16T21:37:49.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/body/item/537-decoction-mashing-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;decoction mashing&lt;/a&gt; you don't need neither thermometers nor clocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You keep you main mash in one container. To increase the temperature, you take some of the mash into a different vessel and bring it to a boil. You can easily tell when it's boiling without a thermometer. You put that boiling mash (the decoction) back into the main vessel to raise the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how often you do this you have 1, 2 or 3 step decoctions. Depending on the number of decoctions and what temperature you want to reach, you take more or less to boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decoction mashing had other advantages, most of which aren't a problem these days:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could use a cheap wooden vessel for the mash and a more expensive copper vessel for boiling the decoction, hence equipment was cheaper. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because you boil the decoction for some (15 to 40) minutes, you get more out of the malt (higher efficiency), especially with poorly modified malts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When specialty malts (roasted malts) were not available, you could get a more grainy roasted flavor from decoction mashing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as chilling the wort goes, you just let it sit. Some homebrewers still do this these days. It works quite well if you make sure the bucket is sealed so nothing gets in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T21:37:49.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17745" CreationDate="2016-05-17T02:28:31.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other answers are pretty complete. Basically trial and error, decoction allowed for step mashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More interesting is that yeast wasn't known yet&lt;/strong&gt;. Family's would have a &quot;stirring stick&quot; that would be passed down generations, it's speculated that this stick would harbor the yeast and inoculate the beers aside from spontaneous fermentation. Giving each family their signature beers. Thier process regarding temp control would also be very guarded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T02:28:31.827" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17738" CreationDate="2016-05-17T18:39:09.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite the fancy scientific answers, the correct answer is you brew a few times and measure how much you start and end with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T18:39:09.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17690" CreationDate="2016-05-18T01:35:16.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use cider yeast (like WLP775 or WYeast 4766). I think strong hop flavors would be out of place, so I would go for aged hops (like people do for p-lambic), and something low-alpha with citrus notes (Strisselspalt would fit the bill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree you should ditch the molasses – mojitos are typically made with white rum, which would not have any molasses flavor. Unrefined cane sugar would be a more appropriate adjunct. Be careful about using too much sugar - the low free amino nitrogen (FAN) can impact yeast health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13699" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T01:35:16.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17730" CreationDate="2016-05-18T16:16:44.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the weekend I kept thinking about this and I have done a bit more digging and found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bear-flavored.com/2013/09/wood-aging-experiment-cherry-hard-maple.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; from bear-flavored.com, in which they speak about brewing with 4 different woods and discovered this company &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackswanbarrels.com/honey-comb-barrel-alternative/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black Swan Cooperage&lt;/a&gt; who make barrels and aging additions out of 8 different woods listed below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cherry - Butter brickle, ripe cherry, fresh grass, meringue, light fried bread/Belgian waffle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hard Maple - Maple candy, light spice-nutmeg, cinnamon, syrup, bread/bakery, cream hint of cocoa&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hickory - Honey, BBQ, hickory smoked bacon, apple sauce, cocoa coconut&#xA;Red Oak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red berries, toasted marshmallow, light grass, baking bread, butterscotch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sassafras - Vanilla, Sage/Spice, Root Beer, Mint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soft Maple - Yellow cake, light smoke, banana, nut, toasted bread, hint of orange spice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White Ash - Campfire, marshmallow, light grass, rising bread dough, light sweetness (adds different mouth-feel dimension)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White Oak - Vanilla, toasted coconut, cinnamon, pepper, sweet baked bread, caramel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yellow Birch - Toffee, butterscotch, honey croissant, light lemon, tropical fruit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/cypress-wood-in-secondary.128878/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; on beeradvocate: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;While I haven't experimented with Cypress in beer, I have brewed with a variety of other conifers such as white pine, douglas fir, long leaf heart pine, and red cedar. None have been promising; all have imparted nuances of turpentine and/or other unfavorable chemicals. &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I have handled yew wood plenty without a skin reaction, and that wood can kill you if ingested.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition I found a list from a wood working site of toxic woods&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spacecoastwoodturners.com/newsletter/Toxic_Woods.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4&lt;/a&gt; which other users have flagged up and looks very informative. The two that leap out of the list as &lt;strong&gt;avoids are Yew and Oleander&lt;/strong&gt; both marked as Direct Toxin potency 4 out of 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-06-22T21:15:00.637" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T21:15:00.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17718" CreationDate="2016-05-18T18:49:21.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, unless you actually pressure seal those bad boys, I wouldn't risk it.  My rule of thumb is to weigh out the possible benefits and down falls of taking a shortcut.  The upside could be saving a few minutes of heating then an hour of two (where you don't have to be around or do anything) waiting for it to cool.  The down side is very high - at best, you could open your first and find all those cans have spoiled, or perhaps you don't notice until you pitch the starter, then all of your hours and dollars you put in to brew the batch as well as the pilot starter batch is gone.  Worst case, that happens and some one gets sick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to bottle a liter at a time and keep those in the fridge that would absolutely be the best solution, though you still will have to wait for it to warm up - much like waiting for it to cool.  So, in the end, it's kinda a wash - with more factors and infection points added in on one end.  I'd say flush the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you want to do a hybrid where you precook and refridgerate half a liter to add to another half liter of starter you boil fresh to help bring the temp down faster and sanitize the pre cooked portion, have at. That or make a 2x concentrated starter that you half with boiling water to give a quick temp flash to kill anything in it and speed up the cooling as well.  Both make sense to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T18:49:21.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16471" CreationDate="2016-05-19T09:56:00.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When leaving the brew as you are not filtering or pasteurising there will be some yeast leaf in suspension, some of these will continue to clean up by products for a week or 2 after the have completed the majority of their fermentation work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general trends when your beer ages are that it will lose bitterness, the sweet flavour (toffee-like) and aroma with increase, and the flavour of blackcurrant leaves (ribes) will peak then diminish. (Dalgliesh 1977).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when beer ages it takes on a cardboard flavour (E)-2-nonenal, this if formed by the oxidation of lipids [&lt;a href=&quot;http://depa.fquim.unam.mx/amyd/archivero/ARTICULOGRUPO8_25527.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;]. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Degradation of alpha and beta acids from the hops evolves the flavour profile[&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780123738912000365&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;], depends what you are looking for in a beer to know if this is desired. If you have a darker beer then the products of Millards (melanodins[&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melanoidin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt;]) evolve over time and can lead to the matured port like flavours you get in many aged dark beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are myriad chemical reaction occurring in aging beer due to this fact the temperature at which the beer is stored affects the reactions that take place due to the differing activation energies of the reactions. For example Lager aged at 25C tends to develop more caramel character, but &gt;30C, cardboard dominants[&lt;a href=&quot;http://depa.fquim.unam.mx/amyd/archivero/ARTICULOGRUPO8_25527.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I will expand this answer a later, I have a few more papers on the subject. And will try and dig out links to the copies not trapped behind paywalls.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T17:52:31.643" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T17:52:31.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17700" CreationDate="2016-05-19T15:59:35.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is absolutely nothing wrong with using corn in a blonde ale in this circumstance.  Strawberries have a very subtle flavor on beer and you usually need to use in excess of 1 lb. per gallon to get any flavor from them at all.  The corn will add little to no flavor, but it will cut the malt flavor and let the strawberry flavor come through more.  If you really object to the corn, I'd recommend using table sugar in an amount that would give you the same gravity contribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T15:59:35.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16594" CreationDate="2016-05-19T17:41:31.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some still pomegranate cyser that I have been aging for 6 months.  When it was in primary it had a murky red brown color to it.  After the fermentation process is complete the suspended yeast should start to settle out and begin clearing the liquid leaving a red coloring.  The long you let it age the clearer it will get.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't ad tannin to mine, so if the discoloration is from that I do not know what aging will do for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12698" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T17:41:31.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17758" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-20T16:38:32.897" Score="0" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if it is possible to  mail bottles to bjcp/ aha homebrew contest. I live in a place where there are not any contest within 300 miles and do not want to take work off to enter them. Is it possible to m&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13667" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T11:35:59.853" Title="Can I mail bottles for homebrew contests?" Tags="|beer|bjcp|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17422" CreationDate="2016-05-20T16:44:55.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you did distill it, I would guess that you would not get nearly enough alcohol, as bakers yeast ferments to hot and fast to produce an alcoholic beverage to drink. Also as someone who tried this with a gallon of beer, you get a very bready/malty taste witch would go strangley with fruit, as in a brandy, also if you were to age this in a oak cask like done with most dark alcohol, you could probably get out the off flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13667" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T16:44:55.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17758" CreationDate="2016-05-20T17:46:01.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each shipper has it's guide lines.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fedex.com/us/developer/product/WebServices/MyWebHelp_Oct08/Content/WS_Developer_Guide/Alcohol_Shipping.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fedex.com/us/developer/product/WebServices/MyWebHelp_Oct08/Content/WS_Developer_Guide/Alcohol_Shipping.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said.  Homebrew is shipped with UPS or FedEx, not USPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with lining the box with a plastic trash bag in case of breakage. Pack it well with 2inchs of firm packing paper in a lose wrinkled fasion around each bottle, then surround those with packing peanuts so there is at least two inches between the bottles and the box.&#xA;Label it Fragile Glass, Non-perishable Food Goods, and declair it as the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T17:46:01.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17758" CreationDate="2016-05-20T17:49:07.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one is allowed to willingly ship alcoholic beverages across state lines in the US.  However, UPS and Fedex do a fine job shipping as long as you don't walk in screaming HEY I'M SHIPPING BEER!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When they ask whats in there I say glass breakables.  If they probe deeper, I say birthday gifts.  It all works out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to avoid the USPS because they are a little more tighter about what's in the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T17:49:07.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17780" CreationDate="2016-05-20T18:53:38.470" Score="1" ViewCount="732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been making my own beer now for a while. I have been struggeling with beer that goes flat after a while. I'm searching for a gas solution and was wondering if those old soda machines we used as children to make cold drinks out would suffice for beer making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thisnext.com/item/DAF0C714/Home-Soda-Maker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My beer is actually turning out well except for the flatness so if I could just get this right I think I will have a good product. Has anyone had any experience with such a piece of equipment and what may be some of the pitfalls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank You.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T12:32:03.653" Title="Could you use a home soda maker to add gas to beer?" Tags="|gas|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17762" CreationDate="2016-05-20T20:24:33.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, those machines simply force CO2 into the liquid under pressure so they would work for beer too. The disadvantage is that the CO2 cartridges are relatively expensive, and you can only do a small batch at a time. It is also difficult to control the level of carbonation in any precise manner. DO NOT TRY TO USE GLASS BOTTLES -- the glass for normal beer bottles won't stand up to pressure. I could see using it if you open a bottle and find it to be undercarbonated, but I wouldn't try to use it as your primary source of carbonation. You mention that your beer goes flat after a while. How are you bottling and carbonating it now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T20:24:33.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17762" CreationDate="2016-05-20T21:57:43.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cO2 soda maker won't work well, as these usually have a preset infusion volume of cO2 for soda not beer. Soda has a co2 volume of 4.0 most beer styles are around 2.4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a cO2 gun of sorts we use in homebrew that attaches to a 2liter soda bottle and uses beverage co2 cartridges but it's unique in than you can give it shots of cO2. So you can carb up a small sample of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would instead address your carbonation loss issues.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're bottling you may need to store your caps better so the seals don't dry out, cool dry place. If the seal is hard get some new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Capper may be worn out, after awhile the crimp area can deform so it doesn't seal airtight, even though it doesn't leak liquid it could still leak gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your kegging, rebuild your keg. Check for leaks at the regulator and all fittings. Though I doubt you are or you would be refilling your tank a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T21:57:43.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T01:28:43.630" Score="2" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a very nice tasting grape wine which I used isinglass Finings on which has not cleared the wine and left it with a horrible taste. Does anybody know why this would occur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13705" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T18:43:14.343" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T15:29:26.413" Title="Bad taste after using isinglass" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5492" CreationDate="2016-05-21T04:23:49.307" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had bitter hop flavor come from dry hopping as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quoted text from the OP makes sense to me:&#xA;Dry hopping is essentially creating a tincture. Don't believe me? Drop 3 grams of a high alpha hop in a liter of vodka and come back in a month, chose something fruity and popular like mosaic or galaxy.  3 grams is toughly equal to 2 oz in a 5 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a dry hop test in which I added pellet hops to vodka diluted to 5% alcohol. I scaled my hop additions to 1 oz and 2 oz and 3 oz in a 5 gallon batch with several different hop varieties and tasted them at 1 day, 3 days, 1 week and 3 weeks.&#xA;I dont have my notes handy, I remember that I used Cascade, Saaz, German Hul Mellon and, Fuggle - that may be all of them. What I recall clearly is that the fuggle was my easy favorite with herbal flavors and lemon and grass and that the Hul Mellon was extremely bitter in the higher concentrations (though the lowest actually got some of that nice melon undertone - the others where overwhelmed with bitterness.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13708" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T04:23:49.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11668" CreationDate="2016-05-21T08:05:40.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't start running finings through your mead to clear up finings. Patience is key here and fining and clarifying strategies tend to strip flavor. Try checking the pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both temperature and wine pH affect the fining process. The precipitation of the large, combined particles will be hastened at low temperatures and slowed at warmer temperatures. Thus, if at all possible, wine should be fined in the winter or at least chilled or cooled prior to fining. Secondly, as the pH of a wine increases, the strength of the relative charge of suspended particles decreases. For example, at a high pH, organic protein fining agents may not have enough of a positive charge to sufficiently bind with the negatively charged particulates. Thus, they may actually increase the turbidity of the wine when it is chilled or warmed. This effect is often called &quot;over fining&quot; and naturally should be avoided. In the case of a high pH wine, Sparkolloid (with its pH-independent strong positive charge) should be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T08:05:40.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T11:05:31.997" Score="2" ViewCount="2506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious to know if it is safe to clean and sanitize equipment the day before using it, particularly bottles and bottling gear.  If I clean and sasnitize the night before using it, will it still  be considered clean/sanitized by morning, or would it be contaminated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13709" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T15:24:11.213" Title="Is it okay to clean/sanitize brewing/bottling equipment the day before I plan to use it?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17768" CreationDate="2016-05-21T14:11:49.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;tl;dr NO&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the conditions you store it. If it's like an usual home, sanitizing too far before bottling is pointless. Do it right before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a separate room, properly tiled, regularly cleaned to high standards etc, one that meets appropriate norms, then it might be safe to store sanitized bottles overnight all right. But things like that tends to only happen at food factories, especially baby food. Only seen it once in a home, but it was a house of a confectioner and it was his workplace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T14:11:49.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T20:34:05.780" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I create a wash (between 20 and 22% using turbo yeast), would it be possible to use that wash to create a (&lt;em&gt;weak&lt;/em&gt;) whiskey using oak chips or oak powder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would possibly like to do this without a barrel, and would like to do this without distilling. Is 22% strong enough to extract the flavours from toasted oak chips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody tried this? How did it go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12922" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T21:35:58.190" Title="Possible to make whiskey from turbo wash?" Tags="|whiskey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17771" CreationDate="2016-05-21T21:17:46.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends. Mostly, on what would you consider / be willing to call a whiskey. All sources I was able to find claim things like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;American whiskey is a distilled beverage produced in the United States from a fermented mash of cereal grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_whiskey&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;quote is from Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; - not most reliable, true, but easiest to link to. You can check it's references - to be whiskey, it has to be distilled. Otherwise, it'll be just beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, specific American laws require most kinds of whiskey to be aged in new, charred oak &lt;strong&gt;container&lt;/strong&gt;. Chips or dust does not fulfill this requirement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, that said, you probably &lt;em&gt;meant&lt;/em&gt; something else than you asked. I guess you meant something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If this would taste close enough to whiskey?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer to this is, sadly, no. Not enough alcohol. Buy yourself a beer. Rich tasting one, something you like. Then, add water to make it half strength. Taste. You should see the beginning. There are also other concerns&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you skip distillation, you will not get rid of most volatile components. Fast and strong yeast create a lot of them. More if you ferment warm, and you do ferment warm if you want it fast. Thus, lack of distillation is an issue and you would need a way to substitute another process to get closer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, yeast. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.whisky.com/information/knowledge/production/overview/how-bourbon-whiskey-is-made/bourbon-yeast-management.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;From whisky.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each distillery in Kentucky and Tennessee has their own yeast strains, which have survived prohibition from 1919 to 1933 in cooled rooms. The yeast strains are so much kept as a secret that the companies have filed patents for their isolated yeasts, which is possible in the United States, unlike in Germany, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you do not need to steal their secrets, but it also seems pretty obvious you should get dedicated whiskey strain. May be &quot;turbo&quot;, but needs to be &quot;whiskey turbo&quot;. Or just &quot;whiskey&quot;, forget turbo. I wasn't able to find whiskey strain that would go above 15% ABV, but that's of course no proof there is none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And last thing, oak. Charred oak. Not just roasted. The thing with chips is, they are roasted to about the same level in all their volume. With barrel, you have almost pure charcoal on the inside, and almost raw oak on the outside. And everything is porous, so whiskey can access it all, and extract from all levels, to some degree. You won't get that with chips. You could get close, but now... extraction depends on various factors. Most important one is alcohol level. That's why best scotch whisky is aged at high ABV and only watered down at bottling. Sadly, I couldn't find a source for a whiskey. But that's something you can test. Buy 0.5l bottle of vodka and 0.5l bottle of lager (less taste the better!), put the same amount of oak chips in both and leave in dark place for a month. I can feel the difference, vodka is much more &quot;oaky&quot; then. For me, at least. Feel encouraged to not trust me and try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt; Without distillation best you can get is whiskey-inspired beer. Might be good (or not), might contain what you love in whiskey (or not), but it will definitely not be whiskey, nor will it taste closely like one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T21:35:58.190" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T21:35:58.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17768" CreationDate="2016-05-22T03:44:29.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;YES.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I know Ill get downvoted for the following heresy. I know &quot;everybody tells you that you MUST sanitize everything&quot;. I know it's in all the American books. It's not in some German ones that I have, and practice (not just mine) shows it's not needed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanitation is overrated. In 7+ years and 75+ batches I never sanitized anything. My beers are fine (thanks for asking). The only time I had a problem was an open fermentation, which turned to vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's why sanitation is not needed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are going to boil your beer for 60 to 90 minutes, that will take care of everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After boiling, you do need to be careful. From the time when you have the boiled wort cooled down and until the yeast is established as the strongest culture in the wort, you better keep the fermenter closed so that nothing gets in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your beer is fermented, the hops and alcohol are a natural protection against bacteria that might spoil the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't take this as a free ticket to not clean your equipment, though. Just treat it like your pots and pans for cooking. You wouldn't want those to be sticky with leftovers from the last dish either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T03:44:29.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17765" CreationDate="2016-05-22T14:37:33.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may have got contaminated at some point after your sample that tasted good. Either from drawing samples or addition of the fining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finings can change flavor. By reducing particles that contribute to the flavor, like tannins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isinglass is typically a second or final clarifier as it doesn't do well for heavy haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is actually a good article much aplies to fining beer too.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://winemakermag.com/26-a-clearer-understanding-of-fining-agents&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://winemakermag.com/26-a-clearer-understanding-of-fining-agents&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T14:37:33.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17768" CreationDate="2016-05-22T15:11:56.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maybe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on your sanitation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If just washing and sanitizing with no rinse sanitizer then drying on a bottle tree. Then No. This is best at the time of bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you want to prep bottles the day before use your oven!&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I prefer this method as it doesn't use sanitizer that can give slight acid taste of not completely vacated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash bottles with dish soap as you would dishes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse with water as you would dishes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse again with RO or distilled water, to reduce ions &quot;hard water residue&quot;. I use a couple gallons in a bucket for a quick rinse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain &amp;amp; Dry bottles on tree.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place all bottles in cold oven.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add lose crimp foil to each bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat to 250°F for 20 minutes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Last minute or so open the oven and crimp each foil tight using an oven mitt. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn off the oven and allow to cool, &lt;strong&gt;do not open the oven&lt;/strong&gt; untill ready to bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: As for the brewing equipment. A quick rinse of the kettles and lines is usually all that is needed if cleaned after the last batch. The key is to sanitize everything the cold wort will touch in your brew process. Lines and chiller, run hot wort though them for 10 minutes before starting chill. Put emersion chiller in the last 10 minutes of boil before starting chill. Your fermentor is best sanitized as close to its needed time as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T15:24:11.213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T15:24:11.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3782" CreationDate="2016-05-22T19:04:54.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for getting the oak chips out, I think I'm with brewchez in that once you rack out the beer you may have to rinse it a few times but you should able to get it out with the beer no longer in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I found this question because I was trying to figure out to get the oak chips &lt;strong&gt;in&lt;/strong&gt; the carboy in a sanitary manner.  So for what it's worth, I figured I'd add the process I used here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soaked oak chips in a sanitized bowl filled with tap water for 1 hour (covered with a sheet of sanitized aluminum foil).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitized a spoon and had a spray bottle of Stan San on hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sprayed down the neck of the carboy with sanitizer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added oak chips a spoonful at a time.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This was a little time-consuming and mildly messy, with a number of chips lost in the process due to mostly to carelessness and a spoon that was probably too large.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, I considered using a funnel for this but the biggest one I have is just small enough at the end that I was slightly worried about damaging it trying to get some of the larger chips through (Hopwise's suggestion of cutting the chips down might have worked here but that would result in more handling of the oak chips than I wanted to risk).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sprayed sanitizer along the inside of the neck of the carboy to get any chips that stuck to it to fall in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sprayed down airlock and re-attached to carboy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the research I've done I think this should be sufficient to minimize the risk of infection (though this is the first time I'm doing it so I'm open to suggestions as to how it might be improved!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, once I've tried the beer I'll report back to at least provide some anecdotal evidence as to how well this worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T19:04:54.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17779" CreationDate="2016-05-23T00:21:51.733" Score="5" ViewCount="2508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm lucky enough to have beautiful New Zealand rainwater to brew with. But, what are the considerations in terms of mineral content? Is rainwater close to distilled water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having gone through the same natural purification process of evaporation, is all rainwater more or less chemically the same? The air here (rural Auckland) is very clean so I'm guessing that acidification etc... from atmospheric particulates should be practically zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What mineral / chemical additions do people make when brewing with rainwater?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13384" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-22T11:09:51.610" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T11:09:51.610" Title="Brewing with rainwater / tank water" Tags="|yeast|water|chemistry|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17777" CreationDate="2016-05-23T08:39:33.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the air is really clean, you have this part covered. But is it? It is not only about how clean it is where you live - that is, in your area, near ground level. Is it clean up to 2000 feet? Was it clean where water evaporated? What was in the air on the way? Start from reading about &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acid_rain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;acid rains&lt;/a&gt;. And there is much more about this topic. Too much to put here. Rainwater most definitely is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; the same everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming it is clean when it falls, there are other factors. What is your roof made of? Glazed ceramic tiles are best for rainwater collecting as they do not contaminate water in any way. But if your roof is galvanized (zinc covered) steel, you may end up with too much zinc to your liking. If your pipes are made from brass, you will have a lot of copper and zinc. If your storage tank is made from plastic not meant for contact with food, you will have carcinogenic plasticizers in your water. And so on. And, of course, is your roof clean enough you would dare to serve dinner directly on it? And so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe, just maybe, none of the above problems affect you. But you should check, carefully. In my country, chemical analysis of possibly drinking water is under $50. By our sanitary and epidemiological inspectorate. Find something similar in your area if you want to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T08:39:33.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17777" CreationDate="2016-05-23T11:29:11.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably want to get the water tested to ensure it is fit for human consumption. The rain itself should be fine, but the roof surface and storage vessels may not made of food grade/food safe materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of water testing labs from the NZ MoH:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drinkingwater.esr.cri.nz/mohlabs/labsfornzregionalpha.asp?NZRegion=NZNZ01&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.drinkingwater.esr.cri.nz/mohlabs/labsfornzregionalpha.asp?NZRegion=NZNZ01&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Auckland you probably want to talk to these guys as they have the widest range of tests available: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.watercarelabs.co.nz/Pages/default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.watercarelabs.co.nz/Pages/default.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here for a bit of fun is a link from sciencebuddies about how you can analyse the rainwater yourself: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencebuddies.org/science-fair-projects/project_ideas/EnvSci_p015.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sciencebuddies.org/science-fair-projects/project_ideas/EnvSci_p015.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These guys will also test the dissolved salts for you and that will give you a baseline for you to rebuild the water profile you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=== Edit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mention in your comment: &quot;The tanks and pipes used are specially designed for drinking water storage&quot; you should be fine then to brew with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In which case you will likely be low on a number of salts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add some calcium salts as these are required by the enzymes in the mash, and maybe a little sulphate, if you are looking for a crisp hop flavour. And may be a tiny amount of Calcium chloride, as the chloride enhances the roundness of flavour. You may also have to add some magnesium salts but I suspect you should get enough from the malt. Yeast likes to have some Mg++ ions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/understanding-the-mash-ph/using-salts-for-brewing-water-adjustment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/understanding-the-mash-ph/using-salts-for-brewing-water-adjustment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/articles/treating_homebrew_water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.morebeer.com/articles/treating_homebrew_water&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some water profiles that you can shoot for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/brewing-water-target-profiles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brewersfriend.com/brewing-water-target-profiles/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T08:06:02.510" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T08:06:02.510" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17762" CreationDate="2016-05-23T11:33:46.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it will force CO2 into the liquid, but you probably don't want your lovely beer to be as fizzy as your cola. Therefore, if you would use 3 or 4 presses for the Soda, use only 1 or 2 presses for your beer, a bit of experimentation and I am sure it will all be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were doing it I would carbonate it just before serving and serve it out of the soda machine bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One potential pit fall I can see is foaming, as you force the gas it the beer may foam, at which point you will have to clean the machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please report back on your experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T11:33:46.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17762" CreationDate="2016-05-23T12:32:03.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will try to carbonate that will give you a beer with 4.0 CO2 then mix that with the same ammount of beer wiout carbonate then spend on the fridge for 24hs. boom you have beer at 2. CO2 ;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13588" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T12:32:03.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17777" CreationDate="2016-05-23T13:00:40.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rain water &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be very close to RO or distilled.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rain is usually triggered by a solid particle (dust) and or atmospheric compression. Then as it falls it's collecting other particles from the air. Then again picking up particles from the collector. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have it tested not only for safety to identify potential contamniates but also to establish your water profile baseline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water chemistry plays a huge role in the quality of beer.&lt;/strong&gt; If your rainwater is as clean as RO or distilled, you will need to build a water profile suitable for the style of beer by adding brewing salts. If you use straight RO or distilled your beer will be very lifeless and &quot;flat&quot; in flavor. &lt;em&gt;I would liken it to the difference between a plane pretzel and a salted pretzel.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T13:00:40.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T13:13:46.293" Score="3" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mead that I plan on bottle conditioning. With beer, due to the short turn-around time, you can usually just rack onto some priming sugar and bottle, and the remaining yeast will eat the sugar. Mead, cider, and wine, however, have longer aging times, which gives the yeast more time to drop out and/or hibernate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I know you can add a little yeast specifically meant for bottle conditioning (probably EC-1118, in my case), &lt;em&gt;however&lt;/em&gt;, how long can you leave something in secondary/on the lees before the yeast is no longer viable for bottle conditioning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my particular case, I'm using Wyeast 1388 and the mead has been sitting at 60F - 65F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T20:17:53.307" Title="How long can something be left on the lees before needing to add more yeast if intending to bottle condition?" Tags="|yeast|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|lees|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17783" CreationDate="2016-05-23T14:03:00.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say an exact or even a close general time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the whole fermentation hasn't gone more than a month or so you may still have enough yeast in suspension. Typically if the mead or beer is very clear it won't have enough yeast to condition. Cold crashing or other finings will drastically reduce your chances of good bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sitting on a few bottles of a dopplebock that didn't condition because of 45 days in secondary lagering. I need to open them and inoculate with yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T14:03:00.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T17:23:15.213" Score="3" ViewCount="882" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick question for the group: Will unsanitized priming tablets/sugar likely/surely cause off flavours after bottle conditioning - especially, a wet/slightly moldy towel aroma?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been experiencing this off aroma/flavour consistently after bottle conditioning - and it's NOT present out of the fermentor (tastes excellent initially). Fairly sure my AG process is decent, sanitary, and it's not a yeast or ferment temp problem.  Newbie question, but I've been using Cooper's dextrose tablets, and/or white sugar added directly to the bottles for priming. For my latest batch I boiled white sugar and primed in a bottling bucket as per traditional method - and I tasted a bottle after a week, and it was amazing - with no off flavours (yet;), and on par with what I would have expected out of the fermentor. I'm hoping this is the answer but wanted to ask for advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with this? And other than my so far anectodal experience, is it a no brainer that you must sanitize priming sugar - even those priming tablets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a million for any and all help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13719" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T09:28:46.207" Title="Off flavours from unsanitized priming sugar" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|sanitation|off-flavor|priming|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17786" CreationDate="2016-05-24T09:07:41.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually dissolve my sugar in boiling water, before adding it to the bottle or kegs for priming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have in the past just added half a spoonful of granulated sugar directly to the bottles with no ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried this may be a source of your off flavours then make a sugar syrup, and boil it for 15 min, then allow to cool with a lid on, and use this sterile solution to prime your bottles. Then at least you can rule out this as a source of contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be surprised if this is your source of a mildew like mouldy smell, but best to be able to rule it out and then work down other possible avenues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips for avoiding musty off flavours:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/VJMsmScAACgAmMj8/article/off-flavor-of-the-week-musty&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://beerandbrewing.com/VJMsmScAACgAmMj8/article/off-flavor-of-the-week-musty&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where are you storing your tablets/priming sugar?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where are you storing your bottles once filled? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How are you sanitising your bottles and caps?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are storing your beer/tablets in a dark musty environment then the chance for cross contamination is high, humans threshold for the musty chemical 2,4,6,trichloroanisole (TCA) is about 25 parts per billion. So the slightest contamination from the environment will affect your enjoyment of your beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure you're thoroughly sanitising your bottles and caps, as the slightest pick up of mold will linger in the bottles during conditioning and metabolise chlorinated phenols in your beer into TCA. Pre-boiling your tap water before making the wort will help drive off the chlorine from the tap water which may reduce the amount of chlorinated phenols for the mold to convert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanitation is most likely the problem, at some point somewhere you are picking up some mold, or you have been storing your products/finished beer in a moldy environment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem, when I had been storing my beer our cellar, which can get a damp floor. I stopped storing my boxes of beer on the floor of the cellar, by building some shelves, which allowed air to flow around the floor and keep it dry and kept the cardboard away from the damp/condensation. This solved my  problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T10:56:53.733" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T10:56:53.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17783" CreationDate="2016-05-24T10:04:13.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to generalise as Evil Zymurgist says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are best off checking the number of yest per ml, with a haemocytometer and a microscope if you have such devices available. As long as you have ~100,000/ml then you will be good to bottle condition most ales with those in suspension. If you have less than this then best to add a little extra. Also, if you are conditioning a strong Belgium ale you may want to get around about 1,000,000/ml.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would generally say if it has been more than 2 weeks in the secondary, then adding a little extra won't hurt, even if just a quick sprinkle of dried yeast on top and give it a few min to diffuse through the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bottled brews after 5/6 weeks in the secondary, bottled them up and initially ~2 weeks they were rather flat, but once I had left them for a couple of months they had carbonated well. There may have been very few yeast in suspension, but given enough time they will get through the priming sugar and carbonate the bottles. It will just take a lot longer. EZ's experience was the other side of the coin and he had to re-inoculate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good guide for bottle conditioning: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/AdvancedBottleConditioning.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/AdvancedBottleConditioning.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T10:04:13.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17641" CreationDate="2016-05-24T11:09:51.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it will probably be related to the large Scoby. Either trim the scoby, or use a larger container. That seems a very short ferment too though. What size is your scoby, and what volume of tea are you using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13401" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T11:09:51.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17528" CreationDate="2016-05-24T11:20:40.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't add anything with oils (eg. herbs, herbal and fruit teas) to your initial brew. The flavours will stay in your scoby and the oils will go rancid and impair future brews. Add it to your bottles for the secondary ferment and just remove or sieve before serving.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13401" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T11:20:40.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17641" CreationDate="2016-05-24T12:20:28.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem seamed to be related to the raising temperature in the spring. When I started brewing it was January and the temperature was changing daily from 18°C to 23°C. When my Kombucha got thick the temperature was changing daily from 20°C to 26°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just trimming the scoby didn't solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I moved my container into a cooler room (19°C) my Kombucha is delicious again. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13564" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T12:20:28.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17786" CreationDate="2016-05-24T16:13:56.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word, no.  What you are experiencing has another cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T16:13:56.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17783" CreationDate="2016-05-24T16:15:34.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that it's hard to say, but in general you have a long time.  I have had lagers at 35F for 2 months and they carbed fine with no need for more yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T16:15:34.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5964" CreationDate="2016-05-24T18:40:48.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to use a &quot;Brew In A Bag&quot; (BIAB) nylon bag to strain it out as well. I'd probably sanitize it in a Star San + water mixture before putting it in the carboy and even then I'd put it all the way on the bottom of the container &amp;amp; keep the siphon hose submerged as much as possible to keep from aerating the wort. I started using wide-mouth 7 Gallon plastic wine carboys for my primary &amp;amp; secondary containers when brewing so that I have room to get my paws (and bags, etc) in and out of the containers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13726" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T18:40:48.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17796" CreationDate="2016-05-24T19:03:16.973" Score="1" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm preparing my make-up water before making wine or beer, should I boil it with the lid on (to minimize evaporation of the water) or with the lid off (to maximize evaporation of volatile contaminants, assuming there are any?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13284" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T17:02:27.607" Title="Boiling Tap Water: Covered or Uncovered?" Tags="|wine|water|extract-brewing|pre-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17795" CreationDate="2016-05-24T19:22:12.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As always, it depends. Boiling uncovered makes mineral content higher, but lets volatile components to evaporate. Boiling covered - opposite. We don't know what's in your water, so we can't reliably tell which is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, mineral content is low, and your water supply uses ozone instead of chlorine-based substances to prevent bacteria growth - then, you can do both with good result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, as far as I know, even if chlorine based substances are used, amount is small enough not to be noticeable, and boil will not change anything in that matter. So boil fast, short, and covered to prevent increased mineral content. But it's always a good idea to read water profile from your water supply before deciding. Maybe your water would be ideal for Burton styles, only needs 50% more of everything? If so, of course, boil long and uncovered! And so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T19:22:12.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17632" CreationDate="2016-05-25T00:35:52.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To fix the low gravity I followed &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/17633/13384&quot;&gt;Jeff's suggestion&lt;/a&gt; and added dry Dextrose/Malt mix. Here's the details in case someone else wants to try this procedure for the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some calculations in BeerSmith and added 1kg of Dextrose/Malt mix into 1.5L of wort from the fermenter + 1.5L of boiled water. Boiled this then cooled to fermenter temp (24C). This was added 3 days after racking to primary and added 1.017 to the gravity in the fermenter to give me an equivalent OG of 1.054. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way the yeast responded to the addition was fascinating with the fermentation rate increasing briefly, then almost stopping completely before resuming rigorously all in the space of an hour:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  Time   |   Stage            |    SG   |  Airlock Bubble Interval   &#xA;--------------------------------------------------------------------&#xA; 0       | Racking to Primary |  1.037  |  0&#xA;+36h     | Primary            |  1.017  |  5 seconds&#xA;+72h     | Before DME/Dex Add |  1.015  |  23 seconds&#xA;+72h 15m | After DME/Dex Add  |  1.032  |  18 seconds&#xA;+72h 20m |        &quot;           |    -    |  Almost stopped completely&#xA;+73h     |        &quot;           |    -    |  10 seconds&#xA;+73h 30m |        &quot;           |    -    |  3 seconds&#xA;+8 days  | Primary            |  1.019  |  68 seconds&#xA;+10 days | Primary            |  1.016  |  0 (possible slow leak)&#xA;+12 days | Fejoa + Dry Hop    |    -    |  0&#xA;+13 days | Primary            |  1.013  |  0&#xA;+18 days | Final              |  1.013  |  0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It didn't quite attenuate as much as I'd hoped but on bottling the beer smelled and tasted great so I think it has all worked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13384" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T00:35:52.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17799" CreationDate="2016-05-25T01:55:21.157" Score="3" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 5 gallon bucket with sealed top, spigot and an air trap. I'm wondering what I can make. Is there any website that will give me recipes that I can try? I'm itching to make something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13727" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T20:00:50.087" Title="Is there a recommended website to get started?" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17798" CreationDate="2016-05-25T02:04:12.690" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;How to Brew&quot; by John Palmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also available as a physical book.  Highly recommended!  It is generally regarded as &lt;strong&gt;the&lt;/strong&gt; book for getting started these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy the hobby!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T02:04:12.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17798" CreationDate="2016-05-25T02:10:37.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The American Homebrewers Association: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T02:10:37.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17798" CreationDate="2016-05-25T08:21:15.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many resources on the internet these days:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerrecipes.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BeerRecipies.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewtoad.com/recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewtoad&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Home Brewers Association&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the book from CAMRA in the UK that got me started down this long long road about 14 years ago:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/185249137X/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CAMRA Guide to Home Brewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also here there are a number of recipes on this site where people have been asking for comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to design your own recipies in the future here are a few more places for you to look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2010/01/27/beer-recipe-design/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BeerSmith's Blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/0937381500/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Designing Great Beers - Ray Daniels&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-09-24T20:00:50.087" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T20:00:50.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17803" CreationDate="2016-05-25T14:06:55.457" Score="2" ViewCount="908" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will maltodextrin and dry hopping post fermentation help a no head/thin beer?   The beer has been on 8lbs of CO2 at 34F for over a month (should be around 2 volumes).  (I'm guessing it was my experiment with store bought rolled oats versus flaked oats from the brew shop.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer tastes good (I don't detect any off flavors) it's just very thin and has about as much head as a glass of water.  I clear all of my kegs with PBW and rinsed with StarSan. I've never has this issue with my previous beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recipe (5 gallon batch)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 lbs Pale Base Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lbs Wheat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lbs rolled oats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 lbs orange blossom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Styrian Goldings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz dried grapefruit peel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz coriander seed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 package Belgian Wit Ale Yeast (White Labs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Schedule&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash at 150F until conversion complete (apx 2 hours)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash out at 168F (run off for apx 1 hour collecting 7 gallons of Wort)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add Hops at first wort (gravity 1.042)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get wort to boil (total boil 1 hour)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 minutes to end of boil add coriander and grapefruit peel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chill at flame out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At 70F run out to fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stir in honey and oxygenate wort (OG 1.055)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch yeast &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let ferment for 3 weeks (FG 1.005)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keg, crash, carb (9 psi @ 34 F) age 3 weeks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After MD&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YqtZr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YqtZr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pilsner on the Left, Wit in Question on the Right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastEditorUserId="8043" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T14:05:45.547" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T14:05:45.547" Title="Suggestions for a thin/no head Wit?" Tags="|head-retention|body|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17802" CreationDate="2016-05-25T14:20:52.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maltodextrin will have an affect on body also the head formation and retention, dry hopping may help foam stability as in increase in iso-humulones enhance head retention. I am not sure how dry hopping will affect the iso-humulone levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be warned with the Dextrins, if you have got a few too many tannins in the mix then addition of dextrins may form a chill haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take a pint sample and try adding a little of the dextrins and see how it works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another trick you can try is use some N2 in the gas mix for your keg. N2 gives far better foam stability than CO2 as it has a lower solubility in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T14:20:52.850" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17805" CreationDate="2016-05-25T14:36:26.497" Score="1" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to kegging, got myself a used ball lock Firestone/Pepsi soda keg. But when I've been cleaning and sanitizing the posts when I got it/after use, they seemed SUPER beat up. There is a washer (maybe? some sort of plastic nub) inside that is all cracked up, same with the o-rings, the gas dip tube is plastic and looks pretty beat up. And I haven't even looked at the poppets yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering just buying replacement post assemblies, but I've found three different &quot;types&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type A fits Firestone V, VI, Challenger and Super Challenger kegs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type B fits Cornelius Spartan, Super Champion and 'R' kegs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type C fits John Wood 85 and older Firestone Challenger kegs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/pin-lock-to-ball-lock-conversion-post-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this kit&lt;/a&gt; I found that seems to want to sell me the both posts without any concern to type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question ends up being, is there functional difference between replacing the post assemblies between types other than profile? Must I choose the right one or will any work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if I must choose the correct one, how do I determine my kegs model &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerator.com/reconditioned-homebrew-ball-lock-keg-conversion-kit-stainless-steel/CK1-CL1-KIT.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;when it doesn't seem to be labeled where I purchased it&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13729" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T15:53:31.663" Title="How to choose the correct soda keg &quot;type&quot; replacement posts?" Tags="|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17804" CreationDate="2016-05-25T15:30:29.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Locks usually only need replaced if coverting between pinlock to ball lock, unless it's really deformed where the oring can't seal or the lock doesn't attach good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start with just a universal corney rebuild kit, it has 5 orings in it (lid x1, post x2, lock x2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then address the poppets if they leak, as these are the part that have a couple of variants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T15:53:31.663" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T15:53:31.663" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17808" CreationDate="2016-05-25T16:51:45.710" Score="1" ViewCount="4741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking around the internet and have found that some people use nylon twine, which I am guessing is better for strength and resistant to the sun, rain and snow... then others use wire, some use gardening twine.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to determine the best type of training media for my hops.  I figure that nylon twine doesn't provide enough friction for the hops to train against but that's where this question comes from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thank you in advance for sharing your experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13332" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T15:16:08.983" Title="Ideal twine for training hops" Tags="|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14787" CreationDate="2016-05-25T19:36:06.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;GIGO: Garbage in, garbage out. It seems a natural inclination to try to save $10 by using unsuitable ingredients (like sorbated juice), but you often end up throwing good money after bad and dumping the batch anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't try to save bad ingredients with more money and time. You could have made tasty young cider in that same fermenter in the amount of time you've been waiting for this batch to magically fix itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;That said&lt;/strong&gt;, the easiest way I know to &quot;fix&quot; cider that is otherwise safe but has some nasty yeast/ester flavors is to make some homemade cinnamon liqueur and add that and stabilizers to make a tasty still apple-cinnamon cider. Cinnamon liqueur can be made by soaking quite a few cinnamon sticks in rum for a few days, then making cinnamon simple syrup and diluting the rum tincture with the syrup about 2:1. Stabilize the cider and add to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12099" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T19:36:06.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17806" CreationDate="2016-05-25T20:15:12.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This my first year growing hops, I was under the impression that home hop growers are really just looking for something reasonably strong but cheap, since you'll likely just be cutting it away after the season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So going too expensive is a waste of money since it'll unlikely be reusable, but just enough to have something strong and weather proof for the growing season so that the vine doesn't fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went for some cheap yet pretty strong polypropylene rope from Home Depot, I think about a dollar per 10 feet. My vines are about 3 feet at this point and they seem to be happy with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13729" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T20:15:12.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17806" CreationDate="2016-05-26T00:49:37.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I imagine most cheap twine will work just fine. Jute or another cheap twine used for gardening should be doing fine. You will cut the vines down every year, so I wouldn't go for something expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine you would have more than 50lbs on one vine, so strength is probably not a huge concern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12431" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T00:49:37.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-26T04:31:44.380" Score="2" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two methods used to carbonate a keg:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set and forget&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Force carbonation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first method, the keg's PSI is set to a value determined by a kegging chart and is left at that PSI for the duration of the beers life. Some time after 1-2 weeks, the beer is fully carbonated and the exact volumes of CO2 in the beer is known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second method, the keg's PSI is set to around 30 and left there for 24-36 hours, before being brought down back to &quot;serving pressure&quot; which is typically the same value as set in the first method. Some people may purge the keg before dropping the PSI, and others may shake the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that when we force carbonate, it is not possible to know the exact volumes of CO2 in the beer. Is this true? I would think that the beer would eventually equalize out to the PSI at the serving temperature. If this is not true - why isn't it? If I set the PSI to 30 for only 1 hour (instead of 48), does the same apply? How about 1 minute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T00:29:07.667" Title="Is it possible to know how many volumes of CO2 end up in a keg after force carbonating?" Tags="|kegging|keg|co2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17814" CreationDate="2016-05-26T10:46:09.690" Score="0" ViewCount="1278" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current brewing set up is as follows: 2 Fermenter's Favorite 10 gallon all grain coolers hot liquor tank and mash tun, 15 gallon Megapot boil kettle, Edelmetal Bru Burner, and a homemade gravity stand. I usually brew 10 gallon batches with 12 to 13 gallons pre boil. My local hardware store has a killer deal on 15,20, and 25 gallon aluminum pots. I was thinking of picking up a couple to replace my coolers and outfit them with ball valves and thermometers etc. The main reason is because I currently can only do single infusion mash recipes. Any luck with aluminum anyone? Or should I stick with my coolers until I save my pennies for all stainless gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T14:32:53.993" Title="Aluminum mash tun?" Tags="|equipment|mash-tun|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17810" CreationDate="2016-05-26T11:13:38.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its not impossible to know how much CO2 is dissolved in the beer.  There are tools for measuring it.  Many professional breweries use these tools because have an exact carbonation level is important to them.  As homebrewers we don't normally buy these tools so we can make random measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said. It is well known how many volumes of CO2 are dissolved at equilibrium when the temperature and pressure are known.  This is why the set and forget method works.  You decide what volume of CO2 you want, pick a PSI rating based on your fridge temp and given enough time the beer reaches equilibrium at the predicted CO2 volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The High PSI method, or rapid method, is a little more tricky.  Without using the previously mentioned dissolved CO2 tools you don't really know the PSI.  What people are relying on there is that they can quickly get the volumes of CO2 up to an acceptable taste/feel level in the beer. Then once they set the system back to serving pressures, given time, the beer equilibrates to the predicted volumes of CO2 from a temp/PSI chart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you leave beer on at 30PSI for too long, it will equilibrate to that volume of CO2 and be over carbed.  The higher the PSI the quicker it will go, but 1 minute isn't likely enough time for that to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a word on terminology.  Both methods you ask about are forced carbonation. The high PSI method is just a bit faster and less predictable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T11:13:38.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17811" CreationDate="2016-05-26T11:17:27.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminium is not used commercially as the risks of contaminating the work with aluminium, CIP with Caustic and Acid destroys aluminium. Likewise you do not want to contaminate your wort/beer. If the pH of your wort was to drop below ~4.5 then it would risk affecting the stability of the oxide layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They would be fine to use for HLT or CLT. ie anything that does not come in contact with the wort/beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would personally wait and get the lovely shiny 304 or 316 SS, that will last you a lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T11:17:27.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17811" CreationDate="2016-05-26T11:21:23.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly use aluminum for a mash tun and do a direct fired set up.  It comes down to whether or not you like that process.  I have a direct fired stainless steel mash tun.  I use a false bottom and a pump to constantly recirculate the wort through the mash.  This keeps things moving when I am applying heat and prevents scorching or overheating the wort at the bottom of the mash.  It works pretty well.  But there are draw backs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one, you have to babysit this thing the whole mash period.  And if you don't have some sort of automated temperature and burner ignition system, you have to manually fire the tun off and on occasionally to keep the temps up.  Aluminum will give up heat faster that my stainless as well, so you'll need to cycle on and off quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that if the temp gets to far away from target and you try and apply too much heat then you end up with screwy mash profiles and sometimes poor attenuation due to degraded enzymes and poor conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its something worth trying out, but I am currently thinking of going back to the cooler set up just to stop working so hard during the mash.   And I can do something else while the mash is going in my cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just food for thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T11:21:23.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17816" CreationDate="2016-05-26T12:36:30.123" Score="2" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title suggests, looking to confirm which BJCP 2015 category would be most appropriate for a malted apple cider.  In this recipe, the malt character comes from two sources: 1) DME boiled in water and added to the apple juice volume prior to primary fermentation, and 2) fermenting the juice/malt mixture using the yeast and trub leftover from a batch of pale ale transferred to secondary that day.  Yeast used was US-05 and I estimate about a  half gallon of pale ale remained in the carboy.  No hop notes detectable in finished cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm leaning towards &quot;C2F-Specialty Cider/Perry&quot; but would appreciate suggestions from any cider or BJCP experts out there to ensure this malted cider gets placed in the correct judging category.  Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11963" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T14:18:22.527" Title="BJCP Category for Malted Cider" Tags="|cider|malt|bjcp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17815" CreationDate="2016-05-26T14:18:22.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had this discussion on the BJCP forums and while a Graf / Malted Cider doesn't have a specific home yet it May if it gains popularity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C2F is the correct category, but note a base style the wort best fits or list the malted ingredients and must portion, in my case I use second runnings so that part is easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C2F was confirmed by two Grand Master BJCP judges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.bjcp.org/viewtopic.php?f=65&amp;amp;t=1250&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forum.bjcp.org/viewtopic.php?f=65&amp;amp;t=1250&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T14:18:22.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17811" CreationDate="2016-05-26T14:32:53.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally would not use an aluminum kettle for a mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aluminum transfers heat too well.&lt;/strong&gt; While that's great for a boil kettle or hlt, a mash tun needs to hold heat. Even if well insulated it will lose much more heat than its stainless steel counter part and way more than a cooler style tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T14:32:53.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17806" CreationDate="2016-05-26T15:16:08.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried a string-like twine and plastic-coated metal wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic-coated metal wire is so much better. Stronger, and the hops are training themselves up them better without the need for manual intervention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11868" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T15:16:08.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17810" CreationDate="2016-05-26T15:25:43.903" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've adopted a force carb method at serving pressure that carbs to desired volume in 15-20 minutes. This way you can control the volumes using the easy temp/pressure charts for a desired co2 volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set your tank to serving pressure, in my case 12 psi. With the keg and beer at serving temp (38°F), attach gas to the out lock (dip tube) so the co2 enters the bottom of the tank. Then in the upright position I tip it slightly on its edge and make a swirling motion to get the beer moving, after 15 minutes or so you won't hear bubbles anymore and your beer is carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this isn't total saturation of the co2 it seems to be within 0.2 volumes as I've compared the pours immediately and after a week with little difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there is math to calc exact volumes it requires many variables just not available to a home brewer, exact submerged pressure (factoring beer depth and gravity), co2 diffusion on contact with beer (tube/stone/surface), duration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've overcarbed too many beers using over the serving psi, to do anything different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T15:25:43.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17795" CreationDate="2016-05-27T17:02:27.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Concur with Molot.  I'd add that boiling water off can concentrate bad compounds like heavy metals, so if you really are that worried about your water maybe get it tested for safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T17:02:27.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17822" CreationDate="2016-05-29T14:54:26.787" Score="5" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that sanitization is one of the most fundamental parts of making a beer and I myself wasted two batches already for not being diligent as I should. So, what are the steps / moments when you are making a beer that are the most critical for contamination to happen? Tks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T10:30:42.227" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T10:30:42.227" Title="What are the most crucial moments for beer contamination?" Tags="|sanitation|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17821" CreationDate="2016-05-29T15:31:59.237" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just before you add yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your wort will not be heated again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wort is full of nutrients, fullest it was or will be&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature is optimal for microbiological growth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No competition with other microbes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No alcohol yet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything that has contact with wort before yeast kick in are most crucial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For full bodied, weak beers and ales, bottling is in my opinion second &quot;best&quot;. Bacteria, mold, wild yeast can metabolize sugars ale yeast can not. And may be resistant enough to survive alcohol content you have. For things like Old Ale, that are expected to get some sour, it's all right. For milk stout, you can make bottle grenades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking to secondary basically have the same issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting stage is mash. Of course, nothing should survive later boil, but if you forget about your mash tun, or wet crush and then delay mash for some reason, you can get sourness. Lactic acid bacteria are pretty common. You can pretty much assume you have small scale contamination from the beginning. Usually you just don't give it a time to actually do anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-05-29T17:18:56.207" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T17:18:56.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17802" CreationDate="2016-05-29T23:06:29.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The style of beer you described in comments &quot;belgian wheat&quot; would by a mix style, but both a witbier and Belgians are known for effervescent carbonation almost twice the carbonation you mentioned (2 vol)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 volumes is really low and won't form much if any head at low elevations, for any style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bump it up to 3.2-3.8 volumes 16psi at 34°F to get 3.2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will at least give a head, then you can work on head retention ingredients and methods for the next batch if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T23:06:29.897" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T05:24:02.750" Score="1" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a Karl Strauss Aurora Hoppyalis clone?  This is an outstanding beer and I would love to try to make it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12689" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T18:44:57.743" Title="Karl Strauss Aurora Hoppyalis Clone?" Tags="|recipe|ipa|americanipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17826" CreationDate="2016-05-30T10:23:08.567" Score="3" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one grain bill has a combined amount diastatic power equal to 70 degrees Lintner and the other one 90 does this influence the amount of alcohol the end product will have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the potency of the yeast will also have an effect but I'm wondering if the amount of sugars in the wort will have an effect on the strength of the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T13:39:46.253" Title="Does the amount of Diastatic Power of the grains influence the alcohol content of the beer?" Tags="|wort|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17825" CreationDate="2016-05-30T12:18:01.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diastatic power should not affect alcohol content, &lt;strong&gt;if it's enough&lt;/strong&gt;. If iodine test came out negative, and there is no unconverted starch, you got all the sugars that was possible. Only if diastatic power was too low to fully convert, final amount of simple sugars will be lower. But that would mean starch in your brew, a bad thing on it's own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash regime should have bigger effect. At 62 C you will get almost exclusively fermentable sugars. At 72 C you will get as much unfermentables as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast &quot;potency&quot; you mentioned is actually called attenuation level, or apparent attenuation. You are right, it changes final alcohol content of your brew. The higher it is, more alcohol and less body you will get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T12:18:01.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17825" CreationDate="2016-05-30T13:27:35.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diastatic power is basically how much natural enzyme is in the grain. You need an average of 30°L per pound of grain for complete conversion of starches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes it does play a role in how much fermentable sugars are available to the yeast to ferment effecting the final ABV. But only to the extent that If a mash doesn't fully convert It leaves unfermentable starches in the wort. - as Molot said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why many grain bills with flaked or torrified grains will use 6-row to boost the enzymes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crystal and Roasted malts have 0 diastatic power, but this is because all the starches have already been converted in the malting process and the enzymes destroyed by heat. If they are in your mash they will reduce your overall diastatic power by weight as will flaked grains. Robbing the base malt of diastatic power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For example&lt;/strong&gt; a grist of 50% Crystal 20 (0°L) and 50% Vienna Malt (50°L) would only have a diastatic power average of 25°L and the mash would have poor starch conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T13:39:46.253" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T13:39:46.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17829" CreationDate="2016-05-30T18:26:53.480" Score="2" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is regarding which volume to use when calculating OG, and more importantly &lt;strong&gt;why&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to calculate the gravity points for a recipe is fine, but then according to BeerSmith at least, you should divide this by the &lt;em&gt;into fermenter&lt;/em&gt; volume, and that is what puzzles me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When boiling, water evaporates and that will cause the gravity to go up. When boiling is done, when the solution is chilled down, it will shrink by around 4%, and this is also a part that reduces volume, while still containing the same amount of sugars, so this will also make the gravity higher. So far, all good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now we transfer from kettle to fermenter, and the loss here should not affect the gravity of the solution, since the loss would be both water and sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is then basically: why should I use &lt;em&gt;into fermenter&lt;/em&gt; volume, and not &lt;em&gt;post boil after shrinkage&lt;/em&gt; volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; My question is regarding &lt;strong&gt;estimating&lt;/strong&gt; the OG, not doing a OG reading when actually brewing. When measuring the OG, it does of course not matter if I do it just before or just after I transfer to the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1079" LastEditorUserId="1079" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T22:06:03.037" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T22:06:03.037" Title="Question regarding which volume to use for OG calculation" Tags="|original-gravity|calculations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17828" CreationDate="2016-05-30T19:06:39.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OG = Original Gravity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SG = Specific Gravity &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG = Final / Terminal Gravity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG is usually just in reference to a pre fermentation starting gravity, but can be labled OG for any formula that uses a before and after gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG for ABV calculations can be taken at any point once concentration or dilution has been done post boil. It's actually most accurate after post pitch and mixed,  if including a large volume of the starter wort with the yeast pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beersmith has &lt;em&gt;into the fermentor&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;post boil&lt;/em&gt; volumes only to calculate brewhouse efficiency concerning total volumes. For line loss, leaving behind trub in whirlpool etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pre boil gravity (SG) is used to calculate mash effeciency and is the &quot;OG&quot; in boil concentration formulas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T19:06:39.787" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6595" CreationDate="2016-05-31T02:57:17.300" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is 4 years later but for yeast microscopy you need a phase contrast microscope. Yeast are pretty much colorless and u need phase to generate enough contrast to see them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13746" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T02:57:17.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="959" CreationDate="2016-05-31T21:12:53.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally add 1/4tsp / 5 gallons.  1/4tsp == 1.4 grams so 0.28/gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of factors (ph, white vs red...), but I've used that measurement for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2211" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T21:12:53.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-01T14:42:09.477" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a demijohn of one gallon with a kit. It has been bubbling vigorously ten days later almost like a soft drink. I tested it with a hydrometer and no strength of alcohol showing. I was wondering what it may be and if I can cure with more sugar and yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13749" LastEditorUserId="13332" LastEditDate="2016-07-04T18:50:20.847" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T18:50:20.847" Title="rose wine vigorous bubbling after 10 days" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-01T17:56:20.693" Score="2" ViewCount="876" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to try to make lager at room temperature (around 30 C). I plan to reduce yeast and fermentation in 2 weeks in order to avoid the off favor and fusel alcohol in beer. &#xA;Can I do this by using this procedure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T04:48:59.680" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T17:47:44.207" Title="How can I brew lager at room temperature?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|brewing|lager|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17833" CreationDate="2016-06-02T04:54:30.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps, but I don't know how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you reduce the amount of yeast, you'll only create more off-flavors as the now-stressed yeast need to use all their metabolic reserves up in reproduction, rather than fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to reduce the time of fermentation doesn't really work that way. Yeast are going to produce most of their flavor compounds (and off flavors) during the first few days of reproduction and fermentation. Trying to artificially shorten fermentation might even be a net negative, if you cut into the diacetyl rest while the warmer yeast is cleaning up byproducts from earlier in the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As some have said, there are yeast that are better suited to fermenting in that temperature range, but are not really lager yeast. That's probably the best approach, apart from a small chest freezer to control fermentation temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T04:54:30.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17833" CreationDate="2016-06-02T08:42:41.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost certainly No. 30C will kill most of your lager yeast, they are not very prolific above about 25C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a 30C room temp you would be best of trying to make a full flavoured fruity Belgium with banana aromas bursting forth, using a good Belgian strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with @jsled you would be best off getting a small fridge and placing your fermenter in there. If that is not possible then &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewhawaii.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/swamp-cooling-carboy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;evaporative cooling&lt;/a&gt; will drop your carboy a few degrees but not enough for a lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T08:42:41.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15222" CreationDate="2016-06-02T12:40:25.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ferm times were about the same. What was different was the taste. An UNBELIEVABLE difference. It really doesn't taste like the same beer. You really wouldn't know it was the same beer in fact. I preferred the 04, but many did prefer the 05. Anyway, I use the brews now to show folks the difference yeast makes as most don't really consider it as important it seems. Cheers! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T12:40:25.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17842" CreationDate="2016-06-03T00:26:02.440" Score="2" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on day 9 of my first attempt at home brewing (1 gallon batch), and based on my measurements on day 5 and today it appears to be stuck at 1.010&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original Gravity was 1.065&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind of just went gung-ho into it and only read later that a typical mead will have an OG of 1.092 or thereabouts and then finish at 1.010 to 1.000 or less. I expected this with its OG to go very dry with 9-10% ABV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is the log of my process. If anyone could have a look and let me know anywhere I went wrong and how to best go about restarting it (if I even should) it would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiled 1/4 ounce of cascade hops in about 2-3 cups of water for an hour, leaving 3/4 to add on the last 4 to 7 days before bottling. At the end of the boil mixed in about 0.945 lbs of dark, what I'm assuming is buckwheat, honey. Once cooled, added the hop water to 1/2 filled (with tap water) 1 gallon carboy. Added rest of honey (0.9 lbs raw wildflower honey). Meanwhile, 1/5 a packet of Red Star premier blanc yeast has been rehydrating for 20 minutes in some luke-warm to room temp water. Aerated half filled carboy by shaking it up a good while before topping it off, pitching the yeast, and adding 1/4 tsp of yeast nutrient (urea and DAP). Intention is to add 1/4 tsp more every other day until 1 tsp total has been given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sp. Gr. reading: 1.062 which I corrected to 1.065 based on the temperature of the must (86 degrees f)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put airlock on without water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other notes for day 1: burning eyes when I added yeast nutrient to must. I'm guessing the ammonia in the urea reacting to possible residual bleach from sanitizing. I rinsed the carboy after sanitizing with bleach but apparently not well enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added water to airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Degassed by stirring before adding 1/4 tsp more yeast nutrient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bubbling in airlock has slowed considerably. Ambient room temp between 77 and 79 degrees. Up 2-4 degrees from previous days. Decided to add yeast nutrient portion 12 hours early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sp. Gr. 1.010&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noticed white &quot;raft&quot; floaties on top of must. Assuming nothing to be concerned about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Didn't add last 1/4 tsp of nutrient as fermentation appears to have stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racked off the lees into secondary carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sp. Gr. still 1.010&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taste: awful, harsh, bitter. Kind of like stale warm Budweiser. Bitter can be expected due to the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some ideas of what I did wrong: Insufficiently healthy yeast colony pitched due to perhaps not using enough, and/or not sufficiently rehydrating and proofing the yeast. If I'm to try restarting should I rehydrate the remainder of the packet with something like Go-Ferm? Insufficiently aerating must (I've read of others aerating with a paddle on a power drill twice a day for 4 days or so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goal is to emulate a particular commercial dry hopped mead I had once and really enjoyed, which I know to be 12.5% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My carboy is now 4/5 full after racking. I'm thinking to top off with water and add about 0.3 lbs of additional honey before pitching new yeast. This is based on some calculation I did with a mead calculator but I did not account for the lost volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other notes: I was expecting at some point to see some foaming but aside from the before mentioned floaties the top of must remained fairly still throughout the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, would be very grateful for any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13755" LastEditorUserId="13755" LastEditDate="2016-06-04T00:55:10.500" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T00:55:10.500" Title="First brew: dry hopped mead, probably stuck. How to best proceed?" Tags="|mead|stuck-fermentation|calculations|measurements|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17838" CreationDate="2016-06-03T07:35:45.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer will not be full, but there are some things I can tell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Splitting half a dollar worth yeast packet in five? Why?! Especially in double-difficult brew, as it is both pretty high gravity (has to be for 10% ABV), and it is mead (no nutrient found in wort)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nutrient. Why add it in parts? I always understood we want yeast to multiply over as short period as possible. Slowing down nutrient addition is not a way to do it, it only starves your yeast more than usually needed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can't really see a point in degassing so soon.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Racking off? When your yeast is on the bottom? This can't help. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as for fixing it. Does it taste like it has unprocessed nutrient? If so, then do not add more nutrient!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go-ferm might be a way to go. Also, I'd advise you to overpitch this time. It will both increase chance that yeast will metabolize remaining nutrient, and that they will be able to process sugars you have remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also consider making a MDE starter. Aerate it well. When it's ready, let yeast settle, get rid of liquid, and add yeast slurry to your mead. Stir well, without aerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T07:35:45.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17838" CreationDate="2016-06-03T08:54:59.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to repeat a lot of what Molot has already said but will add a few extra points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;start with healthy yeast,  if possible make a starter at least 24 hours in advance. Use a whole packet at once, maybe use 2 packs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure you have cleaned off all bleach, any left will ruin your brew&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt; add all your nutrients at the start when the yeast need them most&lt;/strike&gt; Stick with your staggered yeast nutrient additions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leave it to sit on the yeast cake for at least a couple of weeks to get those last few points of attenuation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you only use single variety honey, never use blended honey as you will get medicinal off flavour if there is any eucalyptus honey blended.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hop very very lightly, as mead usually has little residual sweetness unless you use a low attenuating ale yeast such as S04; and as such can end up horribly unbalanced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I usually add juice of a lemon or orange to my meads to ensure the yeast has some fresh vitamins. Along with the recommended amount of yeast nutrients.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My process at this point would be to ignore fixing it now, but to bottle it up in plastic soda bottle and store it for 1-2 months then re-taste it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, secondly start again, with a new batch, thinking on the points above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally have you used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtoad.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewtoad&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewersfriend&lt;/a&gt; or similar brew planing tool to draw up your recipe and pitch rates, also helps you check the sweetness bitterness balance, if not I heartily recommend you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T17:30:06.193" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T17:30:06.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15222" CreationDate="2016-06-03T09:00:42.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on past experience they both ferment to FG in about the same time. US05 is more aggressive and will go much drier, and S-04 will give you more British Ale esters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of ales I make with both. I add 2/3 S-04 and 1/3 US-05, this gives me the lovely fruity esters of S-04, but finishes nice and dry from the US-05 chewing through all the extra sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T09:00:42.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17838" CreationDate="2016-06-03T10:56:23.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We make a lot of meads and I think the majority of your process looks pretty good.  (Including the staggered nutrient additions).  You might want to consider using a blend of nutrients like DAP and Fermaid K.  They both contribute different vital compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the hop additions pre ferment didn't help you much.  That yeast is not very hop tolerant as it is a wine yeast.  Your title indicates a dry hopped mead.  I'd recommend not boiling any hops to create iso-alphas.  Just ferment out a great mead and then dry hop for hop aromatics.  I haven't found too many meads that benefitted from a hop bittering charge of any sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, at day 9 you should have checked the SG first, then decided to leave it be on the yeast.  Now that you've removed the yeast cake its going to be tough to get it going again.  1.010 isn't all that bad.  Its probably still going to be drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get it going again, you could pitch an active but of yeast.  Get get another packet rehydrated (a full packet) pitch it into some honey based starter solution (~1.030SG) and wait for it to truly start bubbling.  Then pitch the whole active lot.  You need awake and active yeast to move the gravity of something that is already pretty alcoholic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO, chasing mistakes and trying to correct them often doesn't make for great end results.  At least I haven't had a lot of luck trying it.  Sure the gravity may move but you've had a stressed ferment already and its not likely that just moving the gravity more will change that aspect of it.  I'd say drink this one or let it age for blending later.  Start again with the same idea making the critical changes and you'll get 1. a better result and 2. you'll be more the wiser for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T11:01:47.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T11:01:47.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17833" CreationDate="2016-06-03T11:09:35.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't brew a lager at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you are asking how to brew a lager without a fridge in a room at ambient temperatures that's different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to be very diligent but you can submerse your fermentor in a larger container/bin of water.  Filling the exterior bin up with some water to cover most of the sides of the fermentor with water but not cause the fermentor to float.  Regularly swap out frozen ice packs or water bottles or actual ice (if you can drain the the excess water out of the larger bin).  Draping a towel over the fermentor and into the water somewhat and employing a fan will enhance the evaporative cooling effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem with this method is that its labor intensive and doesn't afford a lot of control.  But it can get you close to a pseudo lager.  Using a &quot;warm&quot; fermenting lager yeast like WY2112 (California lager) helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I don't know what your sources are, but reducing yeast cell counts is never a good idea and doesn't control for ester production very well.  As others have said... it does the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T11:09:35.943" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17838" CreationDate="2016-06-04T00:21:34.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grats on your first brew!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has been well answered on process corrections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The harsh bitter is from the hop tea&lt;/strong&gt;, if the cascade was 6.6%AA 60min boil you have about 45 IBUs there which is the top end of pale ales and the start to some IPAs. With no malt to balance, it can taste much more bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At your fermentation temp you can expect some fusel alcohols&lt;/strong&gt; adding to a harsh taste. I would keep 68°-72°F as your top end during the vigorous fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cooler temp will force the yeast to work slower and gives them time to build up their cell walls to tollerate the increasing ABV and be able to hang on longer for the whole job. I suspect this was the cause of the stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T00:21:34.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17214" CreationDate="2016-06-06T08:12:20.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answers No and No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although  erythritol is an alcohol it does not count against the 'alcohol' tolerance of yeast. When we speak of the alcohol tolerance we are not strictly speaking about all alcohols but Ethanol, Ethyl Alcohol, or drinking alcohol. This is what we refer to when we say yeast is producing alcohol, and what is measured in the ABV on you bottles of alcoholic beverages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeasts do produce other alcohols during fermentation, but usually in such low quantities you don't have to worry about them, unless you are distilling, in which case they can be concentrated to flavour or toxicity thresholds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as this is a Sugar Alcohol, it is not actually a sugar but a polyhydric alcohol, which is not ferementable by yeast, so adding it at boil time or at priming you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be warned, Erythritol can have a cooling minty flavour, so I would recommend adding it during priming, and prime a number of different bottles with differing amounts, and find your sweet spot (sorry) that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2021-04-20T20:10:59.057" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T20:10:59.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17833" CreationDate="2016-06-06T15:07:59.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Bohemian Lager yeast is the one you can use the hottest. Alternatively, make a Kölsch (2565 yeast), that looks like a lager, but is in fact an ale :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T15:07:59.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-06T17:56:30.863" Score="2" ViewCount="522" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pitched 1 pack of Safale 05 in my 1.080 beer.  That is all the recipe called for but I am afraid it may be an under-pitch.  Is it advisable or possible to pitch more, its been fermenting 2 days at 64 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13766" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T15:59:41.387" Title="Yeast in 1.080 beer" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17848" CreationDate="2016-06-06T18:45:41.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That yeast is 6x10^9 cells per gram at packaging. 69 billion cells in the whole pack. Your beer needs about 279 billion cells (5 gallon batch)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;While 1 pack is an under pitch you should be ok.&lt;/strong&gt;  Some styles do better with a slight under pitch if you want those growth esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's always a good idea to do a starter it will at least proof the yeast for you and you can control the cell count better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I always get flack for recommending a starter in most cases. I hold true to this my only exception to not doing a starter is if I'm using fresh trub that I personally harvested. I've seen too many beers go bad from underpitching because viability was assumed. You can't assume viability! Simply because of shipping and vendor mishandling is reason enough to do a starter. Yeast has a thermal death point starting at 130°F. Maybe because I live in the South West USA I'm more cautious, here on a warm day inside of a car can reach 140° in minutes killing pets &amp;amp; children all the time, let alone the back of a delivery van.  So do whatever yeast practice you like, I just know better than to assume viability. If a baker will always proof yeast for $1.00 worth of dough, why wouldn't you for $50 worth of ingredient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T14:32:05.253" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17851" CreationDate="2016-06-07T08:01:23.187" Score="0" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the following grains available and was wondering what would be the general idea of doing my own recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5kg Amber Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5kg Maris Otter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5kg Halcyon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1kg Pale Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1kg Caramel Dark&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3kg Red-x&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1kg Black Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1kg Brewing Sugars (dextrose)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to do some sort of red tinted beer but I fear that I don't have enough of the Red-X grains. My fermenter can handle 20 liters. That is the amount of wort I'm aiming for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is the brewing sugars necessary? What would one kg brewing sugars do to a 20 liter batch of wort? Is the sugars a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T09:07:24.673" Title="Advice on a recipe" Tags="|grain|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17850" CreationDate="2016-06-07T09:01:51.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do have enough Red-X. Especially with added caramel, it tends to bring some reddish hues. Carered would be best for this, but all caramel can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Get your tools&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For recipe formulation, I really like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewtarget.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewtarget&lt;/a&gt;. It's free, and it lets you see for yourself answers to questions like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What would one kg brewing sugars do to a 20 liter batch of wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it lets you select style you like, read about it, and formulate recipe that will at least keep main parameters of that style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Malts you have that are good for reddish ale:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maris Otter - no colour to speak of, but solid base malt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pale - looks like some generic base malt, again no colour contribution to praise or worry about. Sugar source.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amber - between base malt and red, will not hurt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caramel Dark - Try to steep a bit of it in cold water and see colour. If it's reddish, as I expect it to be, it's good. If it's brown, don't use it for red ales.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Malts you have I would not use:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fawcett Halcyon Pale Malt - floor malting tends to give more browns than reds as far as I know. I might be wrong, maybe there was other factors, but I wouldn't waste it on this recipe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brewing Sugars - You have enough sugar in your malt. Leave this for priming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black Malt - roasted &lt;em&gt;malt&lt;/em&gt; tends to get brown. Roasted &lt;em&gt;unmalted barley&lt;/em&gt; brings reds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What I would do:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would aim for red variation about Best/Premium Bitter style. Grain bill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red-X 3kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pale 1kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maris Otter 0,5kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caramel 250g&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would get red / copper colour, 1.050 OG (depending on your mash efficiency), good base for English hops if my guess is accurate.About 4.5% ABV, good for easy drinking. Not in style (nothing with malt as modern as Red X can be), but close to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6whfGcSBABQeFlwbTFIQm1saUE/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brewtarget file&lt;/a&gt; for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding sugar in anything but Belgian styles is not a good idea. Unless, for some reason, you want to replicate style that allowed sugar usage - but if you do, you don't have to ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep it for priming, there it's pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T09:07:24.673" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T09:07:24.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-07T11:12:51.430" Score="4" ViewCount="720" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering about approaches for getting maximum hop aroma, and i got looking at the hop back - in particular the hop rocket or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having read about dry hopping etc, and the fact that it seems very hard to keep the aroma, how about pumping through the hop rocket, &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the beer would be fully fermented, the only downside I can see is that the beer is cold, so less likely to extract the hop oils, is that right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In which case - Im sure I read somewhere that some pubs will serve beer through dried hops, for exactly this reason - to restore some of the aroma.  So if that works, then I figured it would also work just before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3455" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T16:58:12.637" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T17:20:25.987" Title="Using a hop back before bottling?" Tags="|dry-hop|aroma|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17852" CreationDate="2016-06-07T11:46:22.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd pick up too much oxygen that way.  The beer would oxidize in the bottle before you drank it all.  Dry hopping is the way to go, just do more of it.  More aroma, in this case, is a recipe issue not a process issue.  Using a couple regimens of dry hopping will get the aroma where you want it.  Pellets are a good choice do to minimal oxygen trapped within vs. whole leaf hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are kegging then maybe a hopback used as a randall would be OK.  Get that hoppy infusion right at the faucet, without oxidizing the whole batch.  I've seen that done at many beer festivals with success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T11:46:22.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17852" CreationDate="2016-06-07T15:01:46.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were to purge the Hopback and piping with N2 or CO2 you could probably get away with this, or if you were intending to drink it fresh you again could may be get away with the extra DO. Also, if you are bottling with some Brett it could chew through your extra DO for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BrewDog in the UK serve a few of their beers through hops and/or fruits on the bar and it is amazing, Dead PonyClub with sour cherries was the last I had, and it was full of fresh cherry flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T17:20:25.987" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T17:20:25.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17862" CreationDate="2016-06-07T15:18:32.567" Score="2" ViewCount="1490" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt; How can I tell what this cloudiness in my wort is? will it cause off flavors? if so, how do I get rid of it? and most importantly, if this is a problem, how can I prevent this from happening next time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ran my first all-grain mash about a week ago, 5 Gallon Saison. I've heard to look out for cloudy wort and the many reasons it may be cloudy. I'm not too concerned with a cloudy brew as long as it tastes good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lautered until the wort was nice and clear, looked almost like a dark bourbon. Then sparged. Collected a little less than 7 gallons. At this point the wort looked as clear I would expect an extract wort to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the boil, cooled and transferred to the primary and you can hardly see through it, it's SO cloudy. Just a solid opaque haze in the primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally use a whirlfloc tablet, but in the hustle a my first all-grain I  forgot to add it. I wonder if it would have dropped a lot of this out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read the cloud could be grain flour, I didn't crush my own, I bought it precrushed, but read that it SHOULD have settled out by the first week? Also wouldn't this cloud be in the wort prior to boiling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also read it could be tannins with proteins, a haze that doesn't go away and may cause off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only clarifying agent I have is Biofine Clear, I intend to use this 2 days prior to kegging since it drops the yeast out and keeps my kegs and lines a little cleaner. Will this be enough? Will waiting this long cause problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;, recipe for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Malt:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;10 lbs. Belgian Pale malt&#xA;0.75 lbs Briess Caramel 20&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Wyeast 3724 Belgian Saison Yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hop Additions:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;2.5 oz Hersbrucker @60 min&#xA;0.5 oz Hersbrucker @10 min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13729" LastEditorUserId="13729" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T15:25:27.710" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T09:45:32.740" Title="How can I determine why some all-grain wort is cloudy and if I should do anything about it?" Tags="|all-grain|wort|off-flavor|clarification|cloudy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15845" CreationDate="2016-06-07T16:21:28.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found an easier way to clean these mineral deposits out of my bottles. While doing some research on removing hard water scale from pots, I read that denture cleaning tablets can be effective for that purpose. Even though switching to store-bought water for my brewing has prevented the residue from forming in any of my batches from the past year, I still had many old bottles that I intended to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box of store-brand denture tablets I picked up haven't been 100% effective for cleaning my bottles, but it's cheaper and a whole lot less work than the vinegar soak plus vigorous scrubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my new process, which I recently used on approximately 1 case of bottles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill bottles to the shoulder with hot tap water (or halfway up the body for 22oz and larger bottles).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put one denture cleaning tablet in each bottle. Cracking the tablets in half helps them fit through the neck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the bottles soak until the fizzing has stopped. This is approximately 2 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dump the bottles out and rinse them thoroughly with my jet washer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shake out the rinse water and check for spots. If any spots are visible, scrub with a bottle brush and re-rinse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the bottles on a bottle tree to dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 1 in 3 of the bottles needed scrubbing. The rest were completely clean after just the soak and rinse. A couple bottles had stubborn spots that still didn't come off easily, so I just recycled them. A few old bottles were an acceptable loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6057" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T16:21:28.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2016-06-07T16:31:55.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had a problem with infection when adding raspberries to the secondary with my chocolate raspberry stout, but by then, the alcohol was at nearly 8%. I usually add about 3# fresh or previously frozen for a crisp, subtle flavor that paired beautifully with the chocolate. It aged in the bottle very well, as the berry flavor stayed intact. I wonder, though, if adding frozen berries to the wort at flameout would bring good results as well, in addition to aiding the speed of the cooling process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8052" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T16:31:55.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17860" CreationDate="2016-06-07T18:35:28.130" Score="2" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.brewpi.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1800x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/t/e/temp-sensor-threaded-ds18b20-2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1-wire sensor&lt;/a&gt; which has the design I need and a hardware for working with PT100/PT1000 sensors. Can I turn the 1-wire sensor into a PT100/PT1000 sensor easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: this question has been raised during planning an electrical HERMS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13774" LastEditorUserId="13774" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T07:46:47.867" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T13:38:26.410" Title="Can a 1-wire temperature sensor be easily turned into a PT100 or PT1000 sensor?" Tags="|brewing|electric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17858" CreationDate="2016-06-08T00:38:08.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;you may want to ask this on the electronics stack exchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but to answer this here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;no, you cant replace a PT100 sensor, with a 1-wire temp sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PT100/1000 are analog sensors, 1 wire sensors are digital. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as to convert a 1 wire, to an analog sensor, all depends on your knowledge of electronics, easy if you know a lot, hard if you dont know anything... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the way I would convert it would be to use a micro controller, like an msp430, to read the 1 wire, and then use &lt;del&gt;pwm or a DAC&lt;/del&gt; Digital potentiometer to send the analog signal to your hardware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T04:13:09.583" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T04:13:09.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2385" CreationDate="2016-06-08T02:11:43.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &quot;How to Brew&quot;, John Palmer claims that if you wrap a bottle top with aluminum foil and then sanitize it in the oven, the bottle will remain sanitized indefinitely (as long as the top stays wrapped in foil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13776" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T02:11:43.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17855" CreationDate="2016-06-08T02:48:53.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be many things at this point. It may just be happy yeast in suspension. But sounds more like the hot break and cold break proteins are still in the wort. They should drop out after fermentation. When a lot of these proteins are available to yeast it can produce some off flavors (some even desirable) generally not a huge concern for most styles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most beers won't clear until well after fermentation. Clairity usually isn't a concern at the point you're at right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've hit your terminal gravity. See if it starts to clear, once you're happy with your secondary duration you can fine using normal methods. Cold crash, gelitan, biofine etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T02:48:53.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17852" CreationDate="2016-06-08T03:07:53.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience using a randal with hop pellets, when the beer is &lt;strong&gt;cold&lt;/strong&gt; gives a great boost in flavor and aroma but it's short lived and best done at the time of drinking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few days it starts to change, in my case they would get really grassy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not tried a warm keg randal transfer, so I don't know how it would effect it. I discontinued the practice and opted to just do my dry hopping better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T03:07:53.040" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17864" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-08T07:43:03.717" Score="1" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;After my last brew(beginning of may)I harvested the yeast cake(slurry) to 3 glass jars, put them in the fridge to store them for my next brew(11. June 2016).&#xA;I'm about to make a starter to get the yeast count up, and hopefully use it in my brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of hours before I started to boil the DME wort, I took one of the yeast jars out of the fridge to get the temperature of the yeast up(to not shock the yeast). After a 1/2 hour I noticed the jar was under severe pressure, and the lid was about to pop. When I slowly opened the jar, the yeast was percolate out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if my yeast has gone bad or if harvested yeast normally builds pressure when in exposed to warmer temperatures(room temp.)? I know the &quot;old&quot; Whitelabs yeast tubes had a little pressure when they were warmed(room temp) up, but noting like the yeast I harvested last month.¨&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6229" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T17:16:12.010" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T02:53:11.230" Title="Harvested yeast gone bad, or am I doing something wrong" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17848" CreationDate="2016-06-08T12:32:48.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast pitching rates aren't always too easy to figure out. No one seems to agree on how many cells you should expect in a gram of yeast (various sources state anything from 6-20 billion per gram), and different yeasts have different size cells and clumping tendencies, so the correct number of cells can vary between different strains of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a rough estimate on how much yeast you should pitch, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this yeast pitching rate calculator&lt;/a&gt;. The manufacturer of Safale states there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Safale-US-05-en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;at least 6 billion viable cells per gram&lt;/a&gt; at packaging. The guys over at BrewersFriends.com however have found that a single pack of healthy dry yeast was enough to fully ferment a 1.050 gravity beer (the calculator would tell you to add at least 3 packs if it really was 6 billion/g). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 5 gallon batch of beer at 1.080 (which is a pretty big beer), you'll need at least 2 dry yeast packets, properly hydrated. If you aerated the wort sufficiently before pitching the first packet, then you should be able to add the second pack without any extra aeration and save your beer. If not, you'll want to make a starter for the yeast, heavily aerate the starter, and let the yeast finish their initial growth phase before pitching into your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13145" LastEditorUserId="13145" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T16:19:44.450" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T16:19:44.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17864" CreationDate="2016-06-08T12:48:40.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd wager your yeast is just fine after only one month under refrigeration. That's still relatively fresh. &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/08/24/sloppy-old-slurry-no-starter-vs-fresh-yeast-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is an example&lt;/a&gt; of an experiment that involved pitching a five-month-old slurry without even making a starter. The tasters were unable to distinguish that beer from a beer made with a fresh pitch of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking from personal experience, I've pitched month-old slurry directly without making a starter multiple times with good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pressure in the jar might not have built while it was warming to room temperature but instead after it was moved to the jar from the fermenter. Again, from personal experience, I once harvested yeast into a pint jar and sealed it tightly before refrigerating it. When I opened it a few weeks later while it was still cold, it actually scared me how much pressure was in that jar. The sound of the lid popping open was like a champagne cork. The yeast produced a fine beer so I doubt it was some other microbial activity that created that pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I can't find a reference to explain exactly what the yeast are doing to create that pressure. I assume it's just regular fermentation activity. I strongly recommend you cover the jar but keep the lid loose so the gas can escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastEditorUserId="6160" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T12:58:28.427" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T12:58:28.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17864" CreationDate="2016-06-08T17:14:36.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you are doing nothing wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely the yeast had been very slowly fermenting/respirating in the fridge, I always crack open the lid every few days on any yeast I am storing. Cooling the yeast doesn't fully stop their metabolism, but slows it greatly unless you are dropping them into a -80C lab freezer or Liquid Nitrogen -170C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after 4 weeks your yeast is likely fine, it would appreciate being given some food, and a couple of days to get it self sorted before starting again, keeping yeast in a fridge created a lot of Heat Shock Protein in the cells, this is to protect yeast fro high or low temps, basically any temperature stress. It need time to clear out this protein and rebuild its energy reserves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best to take it out 48 hours before you want to pitch it, allow it to warm over 6 hours, decant off any excess liquid. Then add the yeast slurry to at least double the volume of 1040SG DME solution, this will give it resources to build itself back up. If you have a stir plate all the better, but if not shake it often to drive off CO2. Keep a loose cover on the vessel you are using I use a bit of tin foil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a basically a starter, but you are not necessarily aiming to double/treble the amount of yeast you have, just allow it to clean itself up and build up some energy stores. This should lead to a cleaner fermentation with fewer off flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if time is precious, you can dump it in and it will make you beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T17:14:36.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17864" CreationDate="2016-06-08T17:17:59.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely the yeast had been very slowly fermenting/respirating in the fridge, I always crack open the lid every few days on any yeast I am storing. Cooling the yeast doesn't fully stop their metabolism, but slows it greatly unless you are dropping them into a -80C lab freezer or Liquid Nitrogen -170C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 4 weeks your yeast is likely fine, it would appreciate being given some food, and a couple of days to get it self sorted before starting again, keeping yeast in a fridge created a lot of Heat Shock Protein in the cells, this is to protect yeast fro high or low temps, basically any temperature stress. It need time to clear out this protein and rebuild its energy reserves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best to take it out 48 hours before you want to pitch it, allow it to warm over 6 hours, decant off any excess liquid. Then add the yeast slurry to at least double the volume of 1040SG DME solution, this will give it resources to build itself back up. If you have a stir plate all the better, but if not shake it often to drive off CO2. Keep a loose cover on the vessel you are using I use a bit of tin foil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a starter, but you are not necessarily aiming to double/treble the amount of yeast you have, it sounds like you have plenty, just allow it to clean itself up and build up some energy stores. This should lead to a cleaner fermentation with fewer off flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if time is precious, you can dump it in and it will make you beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T17:17:59.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17832" CreationDate="2016-06-08T17:27:15.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it has been bubbling for ten days, and smells OK, then likely you have wine. If it tastes like wine then good guess you have wine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it at first smells OK, then sip a little, if OK try a bit more. Usually there is nothing that your nose or tongue will not pick up that will harm you greatly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With out pictures or more description it is hard to say anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is this Rose or rosé wine, they are very different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T17:27:15.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17872" CreationDate="2016-06-08T23:32:04.743" Score="4" ViewCount="2871" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I started brewing I've ALWAYS transferred to a secondary after about 2 weeks. This was how I learned and what many recipes say to do so I always did it. And I felt that this was a fantastic way to really remove that yeast cake and trub at the bottom out of your fermenter, ultimately providing less of a risk to stir it up and have it in your bottles or keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many discussions here and entries in books have made a very convincing argument to STOP transferring to secondary unless you're actually performing a second fermentation or lagering. And I think I'd rather take the risk of stirring up some trub than contamination/oxidation so I'm going to try this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My question is,&lt;/em&gt; given basic homebrew equipment, and avoiding additional gear purchases, what are the best ways on bottling day to avoid picking up the cake at the bottom and keeping it out of your beer other than just being as careful as you can?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13729" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T11:55:37.193" Title="Best way to avoid stirring up trub while bottling/kegging from the primary?" Tags="|bottling|kegging|primary|clarity|trub|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1330" CreationDate="2016-06-08T23:59:47.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a super old thread but I had to deal with this recently and I was very happy with my results. Living in a walk-up second story apartment in Chicago, space being limited I purchased &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50218030/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one of these Ikea BRIMNES wardrobes&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a 5 gallon + 1 gallon extract brewer, this fit all of my equipment perfectly, gave my carboys a nice quiet place to sit during fermentation, and all of my gear and unbrewed recipes a place to live when I wasn't brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XaAL1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XaAL1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BRIMNES Wardrobe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't have to put in the middle shelf in the lower right side area and it's a perfect place for a 6.5 gallon carboy AND a 1 gallon jug to sit. Little light gets in there with the door closed and I was able to fashion a cover with a old yoga mat and some velcro to create a cover.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using old wire hangers I created hooks to hang things like spoons, strainers, my bottling bucket, and even wort chillers and paddles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then the lower left hand side and on the right hand side shelf fits recipe kits, pots, additional carboys, bottles in boxes or on drying racks, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've since gone to all-grain and it has become pretty cramped in there but I'm still using it! My gear has since just expanded a bit outside of it. Looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/elyF9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/elyF9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13729" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T23:59:47.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17870" CreationDate="2016-06-09T00:03:14.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold crash to help sediment and compact yeast. &lt;strong&gt;Safely&lt;/strong&gt; tip the carboy 10-15° so you can maximize beer extraction at the end of racking (I use a couple of paperbacks). Do any movement or tipping of your carboy hours before racking so any disturbance can re-settle. Very carefully lower your racking arm down into the sediment bed. Use some sort of spacer so the racking arm is drawing from above the sediment (the common autosiphon has this built in, as the black plastic tip serves as such a spacer). Secure the racking arm so it cannot move around and stir up trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short: be careful. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T00:03:14.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17870" CreationDate="2016-06-09T12:55:45.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I like the stainless steel racking cane with the orange seal.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;(Steril Siphon Starter)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/sterile-siphon-starter-3-5-6-65-gallon-carboy-smooth-necks.html?site_id=9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.morebeer.com/products/sterile-siphon-starter-3-5-6-65-gallon-carboy-smooth-necks.html?site_id=9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's unique with this cane is You can actually move it to the side of a carboy about 2/3rds down and see what you're doing. The red top is visible in even dark beers when it's on the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There's no pumping movement to stir up trub&lt;/strong&gt;. Simply blow into through the sanitary filter to start the siphon, or use c02.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the best added feature of this cane is &lt;strong&gt;you can vacate your secondary of all oxygen with a little trick&lt;/strong&gt;. Fill your secondary with starsan, then remove the sanitizer using the cane and c02. Then cover in foil or plug, you then have a secondary full of c02, and not air. Some caution though, carboys should not be put under pressure so your c02 pressure and flow should only be enough to fill the void under normal siphon gravity flow. Though I have transfered from carboy to carboy with no elevation change with just a couple psi with no failures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Minimize your trub&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(a bit off topic but worth mentioning)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use your whirlfloc or Irish moss properly.&lt;/strong&gt; Many times too much is used, and it is used wrong making a huge amount of fluffy trub. 1/2 a whirlfloc is the recomended amount for 5 gallons. A whirlfloc is really only effective IF you whirl pool and leave the hot break it collects behind, it shouldn't be racked to the fermentor. I've discontinued the use of them and still make brilliantly clear beer with normal post fermentation finings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use hop bags in the boil&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;This is the single most thing that will reduce your trub. I like my hops to float free and bagless, so I use a large BIAB bag so the hops don't feel trapped and can float free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use Hop shots&lt;/strong&gt; this is a great way to get generic bittering with no plant material to add to the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T13:22:28.793" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T13:22:28.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17858" CreationDate="2016-06-09T13:38:26.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry, the two are very different - to make a OneWire sensor look like a PT100 sensor, you'd have to find some way to recreate the resistance in the wire that varies with temperature, which is how a PT100 works. The simplest way to do that would be to use a real PT100 sensor - emulating a PT100 sensor would be much harder and most likely introduce more error than just using a PT100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, can you change your sensing hardware to accept a OneWire sensor? See &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewpi.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewpi.com&lt;/a&gt; for an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T13:38:26.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17877" CreationDate="2016-06-09T17:29:46.217" Score="4" ViewCount="3539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was enticed to buy one kg of brewing sugars for my home brew. It was said that it would dry out the taste of the beer. I would like to know what effect adding one kg of dextrose would bring to 20 liters of wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like a higher gravity and some of the dry taste you might associate with cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T07:57:04.703" Title="What does Brewing Sugars add to your beer?" Tags="|sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17875" CreationDate="2016-06-09T21:00:22.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dextrose: AKA glucose, corn sugar is a monosaccharide the easiest form of sugar for yeast to consume. Not to be confused with Dextrins, which are not fermentable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1KG (2.2LB) of corn sugar added to 20 liters (5.28gal) of wort will raise the OG .019 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many recipes make this addition in the boil though usually not more than 1lb per 5 gallons. This gives the gravity a nice boost for some clean ABV increase with a slight dry character. But is usually balanced with the malt and goes unnoticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yeast is given too much glucose it will basically forget how to consume the larger sugars unless the pitch is very large. What happens is the yeast will feed and reproduce from the glucose first and literally lose the pathways to more complex sugars from cell division scars and then be unable to consume very much of the complex sugars. Also the ABV raises faster than the cell walls can adjust to tolerate. Leaving you with an under attenuated sweet beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on adding more than 1lb into 5 gallons I recommend 1lb into the boil, and the second 1.2lb with nutrients as a feeding when fermentation starts to slow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T14:52:08.623" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T14:52:08.623" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17879" CreationDate="2016-06-10T18:20:53.490" Score="1" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife got me &lt;a href=&quot;http://brooklynbrewshop.com/beer-making-kits/american-pale-ale-bundle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; beer making kit for my birthday. The first two brews failed horribly due to bad sanitation, but the third one, an American Pale Ale, turned out alright. The only thing I didn't like about it, was that it very heavy, not unlike certain Belgian, quadruple beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; sure what caused it, but my guess is the fact that we've had a few very hot days while it was fermenting. It's either that, I misunderstood &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/fermentation/temperature-factors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, as you can see, the kit contains a 1 gallon glass fermenter and I would like to find a way to constantly measure the temperature of my wort as it's fermenting. &#xA;How would I measure that inside that glass fermenter? What kind of temperature sensor should I use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, I want to hook up said sensor to a small computer (Raspberry Pi, Arduino, etc.) so I can perform actual temperature control based on the temperature, but I'm having a hard time finding a method that doesn't involve making holes in the fermenter and simply sticking the sensor in through that and just using epoxy to close the hole and making it air tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my question is: what's the best method to accurately measure the temperature of the wort inside my 1 gallon glass fermenter? Are there any wireless, waterproof temperature sensors out there that I can simply sanitize and toss in the fermenter or is that too simplistic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13778" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T01:13:48.450" Title="How to add temperature measurement and control to my Brooklyn Brew Shop beer kit?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17878" CreationDate="2016-06-10T20:23:46.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The kind of thing you seem to be in need of is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewpi.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BrewPi&lt;/a&gt;. Basically the Pi, temp sensors, relays for heater/fridge and software to hook it all together in a nice little package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would likely have to make an extra hole for a temp probe, but rather than using epoxy for the probe try to find a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Airlock-Grommet-x-5-for-Wine-Beer-Making-Homebrew-kit-equipment-yeast-bin-/162098736374&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;small rubber grommet&lt;/a&gt;, you can often find these in home brew stores for holding airlocks in the top of brew buckets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T20:23:46.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17878" CreationDate="2016-06-10T21:31:49.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just put a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/fermometer-adhesive-thermometer.html?site_id=5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;self-advesive style thermometer&lt;/a&gt; on the jug ($4.00). Then keep it in a cool dark place where it will hold 65-72°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With just a 1 gallon volume and a lot of glass surface area heatsinking the wort it will be pretty accurate without having to be in the wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brew Pi, or T1000 temp controller works if you have refridgeration for it to control. Otherwise it's just a thermometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want digital thermo monitoring, a PC fan controler work good and have flat temp sensors you can tape to the outside of the fermentor or put in a thermowell. Easy DIY, put in a box with a basic 12v power supply, most can monitor 4 temp locations.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T13:29:49.943" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T13:29:49.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17883" CreationDate="2016-06-11T18:14:34.557" Score="2" ViewCount="1913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a Chardonnay wine kit for the first time ever, so bear with me here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions say to rack the wine from the primary fermenter (which they suggested be a food safe HDPE plastic bucket with a loose fitting lid) into clear glass carboys (with stoppers atop them) after 10 days of primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just curious what the need for glass carboys is for the secondary fermentation/clearing of the wine? Does the secondary fermenter need to be absolutely air-tight as they suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it have to do with infection of the wine? Is an open fermentation method not suitable once the wine stops producing a lot of CO2 on it's own? Or are the glass carboys recommended for visually determining the clarity of the wine and thus when you want to bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr My question is basically &quot;Can I use a lidded plastic bucket for my secondary fermentation/clearing process? Or are glass carboys a necessity for the secondary?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13780" LastEditorUserId="13780" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T18:28:48.673" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T08:53:58.207" Title="Can I rack to and clear my wine in a lidded plastic bucket without a stopper?" Tags="|wine|secondary-fermentation|secondary|carboy|kits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17187" CreationDate="2016-06-12T01:00:03.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although we use acidulated malt kettle sour, we too always get an off putting smell during kettle souring boil does rid most or atleast some of the smell, but fermentation does the best job of getting rid of the smell assuming we have the same nose... Does it smell similar to nuts and old yogurt? If so you have a good start and not to worry it will be fine. If it smells more like baby poop like actual bad diaper like you want to throw it away then see what happens in fermentation if doesn't get rid of the smell then yes it is abnormal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brandon J. Woodruff &#xA;Founding Brewer &#xA;Mancave Brewing Company &#xA;Eugene, OR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13781" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T01:00:03.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17881" CreationDate="2016-06-12T08:53:58.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your secondary you will need something that seals airtight or at least with an air lock, a sealed plastic bucket would be OK, I have used them before, but don't use for too long. A loose fitting lid is not suitable. Also, the thin plastic brew buckets you tend to get for home brewing are permeable to O2 so left for too long you would get oxidation of the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass carboys are better as they are not permeable to O2, but they are heavy and can make a real mess if you drop one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re:&#xA;Q: Does it have to do with infection [bacterial contamination] of the wine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: not really it has to do with oxidation, if the fermenter has a lid that covers it then critters are unlikely to drop in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Is an open fermentation method not suitable once the wine stops producing a lot of CO2 on it's own? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: yes, unsuitable once the blanket of CO2 is no longer being refreshed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;q: Or are the glass carboys recommended for visually determining the clarity of the wine and thus when you want to bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: They are mainly recommended as you can store your wine in them for a few months if you like as they stop oxygen getting to the wine. Being able to see when your wine is clear is also a very nice feature they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T08:53:58.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17855" CreationDate="2016-06-12T09:45:32.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could come from many things, from something as straightforward as poor conversion to something as esoteric as mash pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T09:45:32.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17888" CreationDate="2016-06-13T22:13:28.330" Score="0" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew away from home, and last weekend I has to rush away before I was completely racking from primary to secondary. I can only go back in about 10 days.&#xA;As a result, my beer is now sitting in a bucket with the lid on but with no airlock (exposed to open air through the airlock's hole).&#xA;It's a pale blond ale with pitched with S-04 yeast about 3 weeks ago.&#xA;Besides contamination risk, what do I risk ? Oxidation ? Anything else ?&#xA;Thanks in advance,&#xA;Arthur&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12968" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T13:11:52.043" Title="What do I risk for leaving my beer exposed to open air through the airlock hole?" Tags="|contamination|airlock|oxidation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17885" CreationDate="2016-06-13T22:44:17.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with this is limited.  I think Palmer talks about this in &quot;How to  Brew&quot; (a must-have, IMHO). Anyhow; aside from wild yeasts, bacteria and fungi (oh my!) getting into your fermentor, air contact can also affect the flavor of the brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12538" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T22:44:17.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-15T03:17:39.613" Score="3" ViewCount="3688" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my basement bar, I would like to mount 2 beer taps (1 hot, 1 cold) to the wall. Water would come out a faucet just like a normal sink. You would pull the beer tap to turn on water, with temp adjusted based on how far open hot water or cold water taps are pulled. Hope this makes sense. Ideas appreciated! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13793" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T17:04:41.327" Title="Is it possible to use beer taps to control water to a faucet?" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17885" CreationDate="2016-06-15T06:49:51.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your biggest problem is probably bugs; fruit flies, flies, cockroaches, etc. If possible, get someone to cover the beer and protect it from critters. Cling wrap and an elastic should be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is a chance that your beer may have become infected (especially if bugs got in). But I would taste before kegging/bottling. If it tastes fine you are possibly safe. However, consume quickly in case the infection is young.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxidation should not be a problem as the yeast will consume the oxygen and the CO2 will form a layer on the beer to protect it from oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastEditorUserId="3056" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T13:11:52.043" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T13:11:52.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17887" CreationDate="2016-06-15T06:58:26.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh! Instead of normal faucets you want to use beer taps! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature of the water coming out of the tap cannot be controlled by how far you pull the tap, only the speed at which the water will be dispensed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want temp to be controlled by the tap, you will have to have an inline heater/cooler that will be electronically connected (somehow) to the tap to determine how far the handle is pulled down. This will probably have to be custom built. BUT: I am sure if you google for the &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; fancy bathroom accessories you will find a company that already does this, and then you can ask them to make a tap for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T06:58:26.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17887" CreationDate="2016-06-15T12:49:41.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer. Not recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most house pressure is 25+ psi which could auto open a standard beer faucet or perlick style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a stout tap would hold the pressure but they are expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A standard shaft style (not perlick) would start to stick from hard water in a short amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most importantly, most municipal water companies require water saving aerators which taps don't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T12:49:41.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17894" CreationDate="2016-06-16T04:38:10.347" Score="3" ViewCount="1682" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking about doing a 100% Brett C beer. If I was to do this, would the Brett flavor seep in to my equipment, forever dedicating it to Brett and sour beers? I ferment in glass carboys then use a plastic bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13211" LastActivityDate="2018-03-20T14:24:43.893" Title="Will Brett C contaminate my equipment?" Tags="|fermentation|contamination|brettanomyces|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17892" CreationDate="2016-06-16T09:23:00.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass or Stainless should be fine, and you can sanitize Brett like anything else. But anything permeable plastic/rubber/wood, will get contaminated with Brett, and you should have separate equipment for your Brett brews vs your 'clean' brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;==== EDIT ====&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get hold of some Peracetic acid off a friendly local brewer or your local chemical supplier, then this can be used to wash down your equipment and to soak your tubes/hoses in overnight, this will allow you to brew Brett and non-brett on the same equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as always with stong chemicals, read the saftey sheet and wear goggles and gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-20T14:24:43.893" LastActivityDate="2018-03-20T14:24:43.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17892" CreationDate="2016-06-16T11:38:59.720" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard wisdom I've seen is, as mentioned, that glass and metal &quot;should&quot; be fine but plastic is much more prone to scratching, making it a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brett has a reputation of being very resilient and being able to survive in small nooks and crannies of your equipment, waiting to infect future batches regardless of how well you may try to sanitize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's important to note though that Brett isn't this invincible super fungus. With equipment that is free of scratches, good sanitation practices should take care of it. However, it's hard to guarantee that your equipment is, and stays, scratch free.  So most brewers seem to take a don't-risk-it-use-separate-equipment approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I have personally used a plastic bucket to make a sour (using Brett, lactobacillus, and pediococcus) and then turned right around and made a Hefeweizen in the same bucket that came out fine. That said, it is a newer bucket (I've only used it for a handful of batches) and I was careful to clean and sanitize it extremely well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you won't necessarily have a problem in the short term if your equipment is in good condition but over time as your risk of scratches increases you may become more vulnerable to &quot;infecting your equipment.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T20:02:00.070" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T20:02:00.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2016-06-17T00:29:48.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mineral Terpentine (&amp;quot;terps&amp;quot; substitute) is magic for those labels with really tough adhesive. Peel / scrape the label off as best you can. Then just a small amount on a rag works wonders. Rub on gently, then after a couple of seconds as the solvent action kicks in rub a bit harder. Then wash off well in soapy water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had several Epic empties. Some of their labels use insanely powerful adhesive. Soaking in hot water, stainless steel scourer, boiling in a pot, knife blade... all I was doing was pushing the adhesive around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend, seeing my mounting exasperation, calmly suggested I try using the mineral terpentine from her oil paint set. Took about a minute per bottle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CyRsrm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CyRsrm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Xn0sm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Xn0sm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKhUrm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKhUrm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &amp;quot;Terpentinersatz&amp;quot; is German for &amp;quot;Terpentine Substitute&amp;quot; which is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit#Turpentine_substitute&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another name for mineral turpentine/white spirit&lt;/a&gt;. You can get it from any hardware or art supply store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13384" LastEditorUserId="22296" LastEditDate="2023-12-16T00:21:33.380" LastActivityDate="2023-12-16T00:21:33.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17870" CreationDate="2016-06-17T03:42:00.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Cold Crashing with my 30L fermenter and it has significantly increased my yield whilst reducing sediment in the bottom of each bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using a bucket or similar fermenter with a tap then there is minimal risk of disturbing the trub cake during bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13799" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T03:42:00.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2016-06-17T03:49:29.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My process involves soaking the bottles in a bucket of Napisan or similar for a day or so, then using a butter knife, whittle off the soggy labels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any remaining glue, grab a Magic Eraser and give them a scrub. The micro abrasion of the Magic Eraser works a treat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method allows me to de-label up to 100 bottles in under an hour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13799" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T03:49:29.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17901" CreationDate="2016-06-17T14:05:24.483" Score="1" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a hefty grain bill of 10kg, half of which is Maris Otter. The rest is rye and a few assorted crystal malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the mash and boil, the OG was above 1.10. I pitched a Wyeast American ale at the start, then pitched Wyeast English ale 24 hours later. The fermenter was bubbling like an crazy for about 5 days, then just went dead. The average temperature is about 22°c, and I have agitated the hell out of it several times since the yeast first seemed suss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? I've given the fermenter another wake up call with no luck. What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13802" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T06:37:09.563" LastActivityDate="2018-03-20T14:21:22.220" Title="High gravity ale stalled fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17870" CreationDate="2016-06-18T16:19:49.807" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just becasue you don't use secondary doesn't mean you can't rack to a bottling bucket and bottle from that.  That's what I do.  So, to answer the question directly, the best way to bottle from a primary is to not bottle from a primary!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-08-18T11:55:37.193" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T11:55:37.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17878" CreationDate="2016-06-19T01:13:48.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warming up your fermenter is easy.  Keeping it cool is a lot harder.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best advice during the summer months is to brew something heat-tolerant during summer (NOT a lager) and find a cool place to keep it.  You can easily control the temperature with a simple &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0064O92WS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;heat wrap&lt;/a&gt; and a cheap &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B011296704&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;temperature controller&lt;/a&gt;.  I like to tape the thermometer to the outside of the fermenter and cover it with a bit of paper tower for insulation: that way the thermometer is reading the jar temperature instead of the air temperature.  Tape the heatwrap to the fermenter (but not over the thermometer) and plug it into the &quot;Heat&quot; outlet of your controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are lucky enough to own a refrigerator or freezer large enough to hold your fermenter then you can brew anything you want any time you want.  Just turn the fridge's thermometer all the way down and plug the power cord into the &quot;Cool&quot; side of the controller.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are improvements you can make to this setup like using an immersed thermometer, or fermenters with glycol jackets that are dynamically heated/cooled.  But a temp controller, low-density heat wrap and a fridge are a great combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6713" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T01:13:48.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17898" CreationDate="2016-06-20T06:36:41.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK with no gravity reading this is just general advise. Regarding gravity if you were starting at 1100 with those yeasts you should be getting down to around 1020-1030 depending on the temp of your mash. The lower your mash temp the lower your final gravity should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For such a big beer/barley wine, I would usually give it a double pitch of yeast as you have done, but I would also shake in some extra air on about day 2 as the yeast will need to grow more to get the job done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then about a week to 10 days in I give it a good shake with the lid on to re-suspend the yeast; then leave it a further 2 weeks. I like to give it time to get through everything about 4 weeks start to bottling. The last 1100 Barley Wine I made finished at 1020, but I did use some US-05 to get it a bit dryer than normally you would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-20T14:21:22.220" LastActivityDate="2018-03-20T14:21:22.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17903" CreationDate="2016-06-20T13:24:23.567" Score="2" ViewCount="6072" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few months back, BYO had an article about hard sodas including hard ginger beer. It talked about the necessity of using strengthened bottles with caged tops (ie. like champagne bottles) due to level of fermentation that happens in the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would EZ-Cap/Grolsch-style caps be sufficient? The bottles these come with also appear to be thicker than my re-used crown cap bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fancy making some hard ginger beer and perhaps even try hard dandelion &amp;amp; burdock, but probably not if I have to invest in a few cases of special bottles!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T19:04:52.513" Title="Bottling hard ginger beer" Tags="|carbonation|bottles|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17902" CreationDate="2016-06-20T13:54:18.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it recommends a Champagne bottle, then an flip top bottle would be risky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not so much as the style of cap, but for the thickness of the bottle glass. Champagne bottles are rated for about 90 psi, while others are a fraction of that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Champagne use cork and cage, some use lambics use cork and normal cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video best illustrates the difference between a Champagne bottle and a normal bottle. Warning very graphic.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/8spwAAU3NwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Idiot with slingshot v. champagne bottle&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Maybe a fake vid but makes a good point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would bottle it into two liter soda bottles, as an alternative&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T14:10:49.873" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T14:10:49.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17902" CreationDate="2016-06-20T15:04:45.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always bottled my hard ginger beer in soda bottles, and released the excess CO2 every day for the first 3 days then drunk it all on the fourth or fifth day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to ferment it out completely then prime as you would a beer, then you can use any beer bottles you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T15:04:45.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17887" CreationDate="2016-06-20T15:20:54.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At UBrew in Bermondsey, London, UK they have used beer taps as the faucets in the bathrooms, only cold so no temp control issues but they work well and are a nice novel touch. If you were to have a pre mix on the hot then you could likely get away with cold and warm, but I would avoid using just hot unless you don't have very hot water in your house; as without flow control someone may scald themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T15:20:54.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17824" CreationDate="2016-06-20T15:35:22.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this clone on Brewer's Friend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil size 3Gal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Efficiency 65%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG: 1066 FG: 1012&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grains&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4lb American Pale 2Row&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1lb American White Wheat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.55lb Cane Sugar (late addition)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mash&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;145F for 90 min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hops&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.25oz Simcoe 60min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.5oz Amarillo 20min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.5oz Mosaic 5min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.5oz Citra 0min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safale US-05 fermenting at 60F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T15:35:22.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-20T16:27:20.913" Score="3" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I have a question and you will be my personal hero if you can answer this for me so here goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in the 80's my dad would make this awesome fermented apple cider.  He would keep it on top of the fridge. It was the large glass bottle type of cider.  I think he kept the lid off it with cloth over the lid spout. Well, it would sit there for a bit and I guess ferment. Then all I know is that it would end up in the fridge to get cold and drink and it did not taste super sweet or anything but it had a &quot;beer&quot; taste to it.  That was the thing that I remember and none of the cider beers today taste anything like it.  I am not sure if there was an alcohol content to it, maybe a little but it tasted terrific. My dad is no longer with us to ask how he did this, but do you know what he did and where he would have gotten the starter etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was not a complicated process because he never did anything complicated with it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be really grateful for some pointers if you know exactly what I am speaking about...   This is different than making a regular cider beer fancy set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13808" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T17:19:27.057" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T18:50:03.063" Title="Apple Cider Beer the way my dad made it in the 80's?" Tags="|fermentation|beer|cider|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17907" CreationDate="2016-06-20T17:53:44.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did he brew beer also? If so he may have been making Malted Cider 50/50 beer wort and Apple juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or it may have simply been Apple juice and using a bakers yeast that lended a slight bready flavor to be similar to a beer malt taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or even a spontaneous fermentation from juiced apples. Did you have an Apple tree? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a foil cover works really well for fermentation, just drape it well below the top. Though not as good as an airlock it works. Once the bubbles slow/stop after a week or so, it sounds like he would cap it and cold crash then serve right from the jug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T17:53:44.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17848" CreationDate="2016-06-21T02:29:38.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with all of the above. Assuming that you are making a 5gal batch, one packet of US-05 is seriously under-pitching and probably won't make a good beer. However, the question asked whether it's advisable to add more yeast now that the fermentation is underway. The two consequences of under-pitching that you're likely to encounter are ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Increased production of unwanted bi-products of fermentation; particularly fusel alcohols and acetalehyde.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Fermentation is more likely to stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, pitching more yeast can restart a fermentation, and reduce acetalehyde, but it wont do anything for the fusel alcohols. Once primary fermentation is complete (should be about now) take a gravity reading and taste the beer. If you get strong solventy flavours then decide whether you want to cut your losses an dump the batch. If you get a lot of acetaldehyde or the gravity is higher than it should be then it's worth adding more yeast. If it tastes OK and the gravity is where you expect it then you've probably got away with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When adding yeast to an active fermentation you should make up a starter of the size that should have pitched initially. Don't wait for the starter to complete fermentation, pitch it when it's at high krausen. That gives the yeast the best chance of thriving in what will already be a high alcohol , high C02 environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastEditorUserId="13805" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T20:17:31.160" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T20:17:31.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17864" CreationDate="2016-06-21T02:53:11.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gas is formed by regular anaerobic yeast fermentation. When you put a lot of yeast with a small amount of food (the residual sugars in your beer) the yeast cells are better able to consume that food than they would be otherwise. In addition to the danger of the jar exploding, excess pressure is also bad for the yeast. I use canning jars that have a flat lid and a separate screw band to hold the lid onto the jar. Once the yeast is in the jar I tighten the screw band and then back it off a quarter turn. That way the jar is usually closed but any pressure will push the lid up and vent the gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T02:53:11.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17802" CreationDate="2016-06-21T03:33:11.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Malto-dexrin will increase the body, but it will only improve head retention if you also have sufficient medium-length proteins in your beer. There's a BYO article on this topic here &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/191-beer-foam-advanced-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/191-beer-foam-advanced-brewing&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To improve head retention without increasing the body you could use Propylene Glycol Alginate (PGA). It's otherwise known as Stablifoam or Beer Heading Liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T03:33:11.577" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17802" CreationDate="2016-06-21T06:36:37.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since no one has really touched on this part of the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Will [...] &lt;strong&gt;dry hopping&lt;/strong&gt; post fermentation help a no head/thin beer?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, and in fact dry hopping would probably only serve to make things worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Mr_road notes, it's the &lt;em&gt;isomerized&lt;/em&gt; alpha-acids that contribute to foam stability. Dry hopping adds basically no isomerized alpha acids since isomerization requires high heat or pH or a catalyst to take place and the dry-hopping (and hop storage) environment should provide none of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What dry-hopping contributes is primarily essential oils, which will dissolve in the ethanol in the beer. As with any kind of lipid, these oils should do nothing but &lt;em&gt;decrease&lt;/em&gt; your foam stability, though it's not likely to be a huge effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the essential oil fraction, dry-hopping will also provide water-soluble tannins, or polyphenols, which, in high concentrations, may contribute astringency to your beer. It &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; help the flavor, depending on your taste, but the first thing that comes to my mind when thinking of a remedy for a thin beer is definitely &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; adding astringency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I'm at it, here are a few other things you might consider as being potential causes of a lacking head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming you meant your starting gravity was 1.055 and it finished at 1.005 (not 1.55 and 1.05) that's ~6.6% ABV. Alcohol has a fairly strong foam-&lt;em&gt;negative&lt;/em&gt; effect above just a few % ABV.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10% oats in your recipe may have contributed considerable lipid to the wort, and its survival into the finished beer would depend on your particular methods, especially for wort separation (running off) and trub separation (knocking out). Doing either over-rapidly or carelessly could lead to elevated levels in the final wort and subsequent beer. Grapefruit peel and coriander seeds are also fairly rich in lipids/oils.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your chosen yeast strain and fermentation parameters (pitching rate, oxygenation, temperature &amp;amp;c) may have had an effect: yeast-derived fusel alcohols, esters and fatty acids can have a foam-negative effect. Since you used an ester-y (Belgian) strain, especially if you fermented warm, this may have contributed to the issue. Also, high levels of simple sugar at the beginning of fermentation (from the honey) may have effected the yeast's fermentation performance further. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since you describe it as &lt;em&gt;thin&lt;/em&gt;, I'd have to assume it's probably not as viscous as other, more full-bodied beers. Viscosity is one of the more important determinants of foam-stability (as viscous liquid drains more slowly from the foam), and is probably &lt;em&gt;roughly&lt;/em&gt; related to finishing gravity. This is the reason adding maltodextrin does increase head retention.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these are &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; the cause of this lackluster head, but some combination of them together may have helped create the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This turned into a much longer answer than I had intended, but I hope you find some of it useful anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T06:36:37.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3231" CreationDate="2016-06-22T17:29:26.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have make cocktail jellies, and Honey and citrus jellie before (British Jelly) with Gelatin, and I would guess you would follow a very similar recipe to the cocktail jellies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your pint of mead take 5-7 sheet of gelatin, about 25-50% more than the packet advises for a similar volume, to offset the denaturing qualities of the alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dissolve in the gelatin to the warmed mead, then add to your jars and leave to set in the fridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing it with pectin then I'd suggest again the 25-50% extra to account for the alcohol which will affect setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS I will try this (British Jelly) and report back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T17:29:26.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-22T11:21:43.173" Score="1" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bonjour,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Je débute complètement dans le brassage maison et je cherche une Communauté de Brasseurs Amateurs.(I am completely new to the idea of home brewing and am looking for a &lt;strong&gt;Community of Amateur Brewers for French speaking individuals&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any information would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" OwnerDisplayName="user2655806" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T11:49:39.217" Title="Communauté de Brasseurs Amateurs Française (Community of French Amateur Brewers)" Tags="|brewing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17916" CreationDate="2016-06-23T11:46:46.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. There is a very good beer shop/store called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bieremasterclass.fr/lieu/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cave à Bulles&lt;/a&gt; at 45 rue Quincampoix in Paris; it is in the 4th arrondissement, near the Pompidou Centre. Here there is a community you can join where the discussion is all about French craft beer and amateur brewing. They have regular &lt;em&gt;degustation&lt;/em&gt; (tasting) sessions and an online discussion forum, although it is not in any sense a large commercial operation - in other words perfect for amateurs interested in beer and the brewing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was a member of this group when I lived in Paris some years ago, and I know it is still going. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13820" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T19:04:24.687" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T19:04:24.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17916" CreationDate="2016-06-23T12:27:27.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If in Quebec or even Canada for that matter you may wish to check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.montrealers.ca/accueil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Montre Alers&lt;/a&gt; (Club de Brasseurs/Homebrewing Club). This club is centered around the area of Montreal, Quebec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Montre Alers is an organization composed of Montreal-area home brewers who share both a passion for the hobby of home brewing and a desire to see it grow and flourish. Our main activities consist of monthly tasting meetings, competitions, and discussing various brewing-related topics online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T12:27:27.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17916" CreationDate="2016-06-23T19:42:29.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife speaks French and has is a very good Brewster in her own right, she has found these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brassageamateur.com/forum/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brassageamateur.com/forum/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://univers-biere.net/liens_brassam.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://univers-biere.net/liens_brassam.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope they are what you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T19:42:29.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2016-06-24T04:30:16.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just one more answer to the already long litany of responses to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found a reference online the another day of someone referring to distilled mead as &lt;strong&gt;Mead Brandy.&lt;/strong&gt; For what its worth, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://homedistiller.org/sugar/wash-sugar/honey&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Home Distillation of Alcohol&lt;/a&gt; even gives a recipe of how to make Mead Brandy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mead Brandy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Jacks recipe for Mead Brandy ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I think this would be close to the ancestral roots of Krupnik (the honey sweetened vodka). First step: make mead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Per gallon (4L): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Three (3) pounds of honey&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One teaspoon of yeast nutrient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One tablespoon of acid blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dissolve everything in the water - then pitch a dry champagne yeast (I prefer Lavlin's K1V-1116 over the EC-1118 because the '18 tends to develop a stale, brackish taste over time that can follow into the spirit). Once fermented till dry - distill twice in a potstill or just go by taste in a reflux still. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's good as a clear spirit, but I prefer to water it to 40 to 45% and age it on a quarter teaspoon of charred American oak until it gets a Glenmorangie (10 year) gold color. This takes maybe a month in the bottle. Age it at this lower strength as vanillins tend to interfere with the honey aroma of the spirit, and the bitter - sweet taste of this wood tends to balance well with the honey - the sugars in the wood that are extracted at this low strength also tend to smoothen out the spirit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T04:30:16.357" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-06-24T04:30:16.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-24T06:24:19.980" Score="1" ViewCount="2031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a 5 litre brew yesterday, a California Common Beer, I did it as per the recipe, with the steep time and the 60 min boil, and I ended up with 2.5 litres of wort from a starting liquid of 7.37 litres, a 75 min steep and a 10 min sparge with flame on and then a 60 min boil. I topped it up with fresh water to 4 litres, probably a fail....What can I do to avoid this over evaporation in the future???&#xA;Marty..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13693" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T21:26:15.637" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T15:55:17.483" Title="Not enough wort after boil" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-24T13:31:37.587" Score="2" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;When doing the post mash hop boil during a brew, is it possible to do this with a 5L sub-sample of the wort, instead of the full 23L of wort? In practise it would mean taking 5L from the post mash wort and boiling it separately in a stock pot, then pouring it back into the main wort in the fermenter post-boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea behind this would be to save energy bills by not having the boil the full 23L of wort for an hour. there may also be an advantage in being able to cool it quicker..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13822" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T20:31:08.173" Title="Hop boiling - Ok to use sub section of wort?" Tags="|hops|boil|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17922" CreationDate="2016-06-24T13:45:53.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. But not because of the hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to boil ALL the wort for 60-90 minutes to reduce DMS (cooked corn flavor) especially in all grain brewing.&#xA;If any of the wort is unboiled, you will have lacto and other critters still alive, and unbroken proteins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as for extracting the bittering, flavor, aroma in a partial boil. &lt;em&gt;It does work&lt;/em&gt;. I'm sure there are subtle differences on how the hops react to the limited boil, but it is a common practice is brewing. For example boiling a high gravity wort 1.080 then blend it with water for a 1.040 beer. (Known as partial boil)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key is that all the wort is boiled. If you want to save energy with a lower boil volume, increase gravity of the wort and add sanitary water to the wort post boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T13:45:53.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17921" CreationDate="2016-06-24T13:54:01.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reduce your heat, you only need a low rolling boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reduce the surface area of the wort. ( Use a narrow pot)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing wrong with topping off with sanitary water. Its a common practice known as a partial boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T13:54:01.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17927" CreationDate="2016-06-24T14:20:37.593" Score="1" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ferment my beer in a fridge located in my summer house. I've been using STC-1000 but one of it's drawbacks is that there is no logging of temperature. Is there any better thermostat that can control heating, cooling, has predefined programs and additionaly can be accessed trough a web panel? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="717" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T22:26:06.767" Title="Temperature controller that can be accessed by a mobile?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17922" CreationDate="2016-06-24T14:31:13.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Conventional brewlore recommends a 60 minute boil to drive off DMS. However, this is starting to be questioned (so proceed at your own risk): &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/03/11/the-impact-of-boil-length-ale-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2015/03/11/the-impact-of-boil-length-ale-exbeeriment-results/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, all of the wort must be boiled for at least 15 minutes. In addition to killing off the bugs present in the malt, this will ensure a good a hot break to denature the mash proteins and help clarify your beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also will get less extraction from the hops by boiling them in a smaller amount of liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13823" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T14:31:13.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17925" CreationDate="2016-06-24T22:26:06.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;the closest thing you can get with out spending an arm and a leg is getting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewpi.com/blog/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewPI&lt;/a&gt;, I dont have one, but it says it can log locally and has a bunch of different functions, and a web interface. you may be able to follow this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewpi.com/fridge-hacking-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt; to hack your existing fridge to be compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;personally, i like to build things so i would get a raspberry Pi, put a Lamp server on it, and make my own controller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T22:26:06.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-25T21:32:48.430" Score="1" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shiraz that had completed fermentation and clarification and was being stored in a carboy until I had time to bottle. Apparently, the air lock was knocked off and it was sitting open (with a dark towel over the top) for up to 7 days (the last time I checked it). Is there any way to check for contamination or is it a lost cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13828" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:39:59.557" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:41:27.893" Title="Prolonged loss of air lock" Tags="|airlock|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17928" CreationDate="2016-06-26T11:06:40.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very unlikely that you've got contamination. Wine traditionally has been brewed in open vats for hundreds of years. The risk of contamination is much less than it would be if you brewing beer. Vigorous yeast, high alcohol and low pH keep most things at bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have got a little oxidation, but don't give up on the batch because of that. In the worst case bulk store the wine and use it for blending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really worried about a contamination that will develop in storage you can pasteurise the wine in a dishwasher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for testing you can test microscopically, but taste is the best indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:39:41.213" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:39:41.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17928" CreationDate="2016-06-26T15:02:53.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only general reason I see to worry is if the yeast didn't get a good head start before the airlock came off - unlikely to be a problem if it was CO2 that blew the airlock off. Even then you might be worrying about nothing. The other thing I can think of to worry about is an obvious proximity of some must/wort-loving micro-critter. I'm pretty sure I've had contaminations traceable to the litter box when I brewed indoors in a small apartment. But, again, that's hardly a guarantee of a problem, just a possible source for one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concur with Kevin Sharp. I'm not even sure I'd worry about the oxidation because CO2 is a heavy gas that will tend to just sit on top of the must if left undisturbed. I would do nothing and just see it through. Then do a taste test when you normally would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:41:27.893" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:41:27.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17907" CreationDate="2016-06-27T04:57:46.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was wondering if you could answer the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much yeast to 1 gallon of organic cider.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how long to let it ferment for that beer taste. Not worried about alcohol level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;once it is done fermenting do I need to do anything or just refrigerate it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I start another jug with the fermented apple juice as a starter?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to add yeast along the way while it ferments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is putting it atop the refrigerator okay or should it be in my pantry?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to stir it or do anything else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really appreciate your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13833" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T04:57:46.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17938" CreationDate="2016-06-26T16:55:49.423" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may sound super gross, but allow me to explain. Beer is typically made from malted barley, but other things is also used, for the most part various types of grains. What they all have in common though is that they are all plant materials. The reason for that is pretty obvious; you need a source for starch for the fermentation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It struck me that it is possible to find starch-like polysaccharides in non-plant material too, particularly in liver, where the concentration of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycogen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;glycogen&lt;/a&gt; is high. Wikipedia says it is about 5-6% percent of raw liver, meaning dried liver should offer a reasonable concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am for obvious reasons not going to try to brew anything from liver, the potential health risk being an example of a show stopper. But in theory, would brewing something from liver be possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13837" OwnerDisplayName="Hohmannfan" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T12:56:19.147" Title="Can I make beer from... liver?" Tags="|brewing|ingredients|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17933" CreationDate="2016-06-27T07:45:21.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a tradition of adding a small amount of meat to cider in a barrel that is slow to start fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13834" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T07:45:21.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17933" CreationDate="2016-06-27T11:44:27.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would salt and air dry the liver before I add it to any not salted liquid. You would have to dehydrate it too the point where no unwanted bacteria would grow in it. You can basically then use it in a similar way as how beef stock cubes are used for soups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said Bovril is another alternative. There is already a tea made from it and it gives a strong meaty flavour. You could probably use that as an adjunct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T11:44:27.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17921" CreationDate="2016-06-27T11:46:36.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, any recipe needs to be adapted to the equipment/setup you use. Narrower kettles, with a smaller surface of the liquid in contact with the air will lose less voulem to evaporation, for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make up for the difference, you can adpat your initial boiling volume ; add water later in your brewing process (nothing wrong with that as long as the water is sanitized) ; reduce air flow around your kettle as it's boiling ; reduce the heat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12968" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T11:46:36.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17916" CreationDate="2016-06-27T11:49:39.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're in Paris, you might also want to check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewunique.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brew Unique&lt;/a&gt;. You can learn how to brew there, get supplies, but Mike and the rest of the staff will also be happy to help you analyze your homebrewed beer if you stop by with a bottle, and to give you tips. I run into other homebrewers every time I stop by. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12968" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T11:49:39.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17933" CreationDate="2016-06-27T12:56:19.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything can be an &quot;ingredient&quot; but as a source of fermentable sugar that takes a little more thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you said liver only contains about 5%   glycogen (polysaccaride with a protein core and glucose)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem 1: 5% useful isn't very much. You really need to think about the other 95% and how it would adversely effect the concoction. IE large amounts of Iron &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem 2: The glycogen molecules need to be broken down into sugars yeast can use. The liver wouldn't have any enzymes for this and would need to be added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically Amylase does this for us in the mash and it is naturally occuring in the grain, measure by (diastatic power)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While very impractical, I guess you could ferment liver into alcohol. But please don't call it Beer. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T12:56:19.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17941" CreationDate="2016-06-27T20:44:39.687" Score="5" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of yeast questions that I have not found the answer to yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I recently washed my yeast from a batch of beer using something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/07/25/yeast-washing-reusing-your-yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. I got 5 jars of yeast out of this, and I assume I can brew 5 batches of beer from these. So what exactly is 4 - 6 generations? Because If I take the yeast from another batch of beer, I can get another 5 jars again. Are all of those considered generation 2?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I was looking into yeast culturing from &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20120708055744/http://www.tigereye.net.au/bluedog/slants.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, Is this what commercial breweries would do?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could I just buy a microscope and learn how to do a yeast viability test on my own? Or do I need a microbiology degree for that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whats the ideal temperature to keep the yeast? I have them in the refrigerator, but I am not sure if that temperature is correct or not. Will the yeast die if its to cold?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2288" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T14:08:13.920" Title="Questions on keeping a yeast strain going over and over" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-27T20:53:34.950" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a Cascade hop I planted in a pot in late April or early May.  I had a lot of travel and left it a little longer than I intended.  I recently transplanted it to the ground with some bonemeal.  It only had two shoots at the time.  Now it's shooting out new shoots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just trim these shoots?  I tried to train the original two shoots up a bamboo pole, but they don't seem too active now. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vkD9r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vkD9r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T15:14:05.497" Title="Late hop transplant to the ground - thoughts on trimming?" Tags="|hops|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17939" CreationDate="2016-06-28T14:08:13.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'So what exactly is 4 - 6 generations? [...] Are all of those considered generation 2?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A generation of yeast is considered as having gone from pitching to post-fermentation collection. So if you ferment a batch with new yeast and collect five jars, those are all first generation. If you pitched every one of those jars into a new batch and collected five jars from each, you'd have 25 jars of &lt;em&gt;second&lt;/em&gt; generation yeast. Continuing with the same method, you'd end up with 125 jars of &lt;em&gt;third&lt;/em&gt; generation yeast, &amp;amp;c &amp;amp;c. Obviously you're not going to do this (there's no reason to collect more yeast than you need), but this is how generations work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to collect just two jars from the first batch, pitch only one new batch and collect two more jars from the second batch, you'd be able to choose between the two jars of second-generation yeast and one left-over jar of first-generation yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Is this what commercial breweries would do?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some do, though slanting is not a great way for large-scale commercial production. Typically isolated strains would be stored in liquid nitrogen and built up in a propagating flask and then in a larger propagator. It's not that slanting couldn't work, it just requires re-culturing for long term storage (usually twice or more a year, with a possibility for strain drift), while samples stored in liquid nitrogen can stay viable, and not experience genetic drift, for many years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most 'craft' breweries I've seen will get their yeast in &lt;em&gt;pitchable&lt;/em&gt; quantities from a laboratory, often 1-10 liters. Much like malting, the most sensitive parts of yeast propagation have moved away from being done in the brewery and formed a specialized subset of people and companies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Could I just buy a microscope and learn how to do a yeast viability test on my own? Or do I need a microbiology degree for that?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes - There are a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.morebeer.com/brewingtechniques/library/backissues/issue2.4/allen.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tons&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/Resources%5CCraftBrewing%5CPDFs%5CBrewing_Processes_and_Techniques/Getting-The-Most-Out-Of-Your-Hemocytometer.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;places&lt;/a&gt; on the internet that will teach you a great deal about yeast and how to handle it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No - you don't need a degree for this any more than you need a degree to brew beer in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Whats the ideal temperature to keep the yeast? [...] Will the yeast die if its to cold?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As cold as possible &lt;em&gt;without freezing&lt;/em&gt;. Yeast will be increasingly dormant at low temperatures, surviving on their own energy reserves. Lower temperatures slow the yeast's metabolism and therefore prolong storage life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freezing will form ice crystals which basically tear apart the yeast cell from within. Definitely not an ideal situation. For home storage, the fridge is fine. Slants should last 6 months to a year before you would consider re-culturing. Jars, handled properly, can stay good for months too, though you would typically want to use them to make a starter to pitch, rather than pitching directly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T14:08:13.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17940" CreationDate="2016-06-28T15:14:05.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends a lot on what your local growing conditions are, since it's well into the growing season at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me (northeast US) I'd probably keep the two existing shoots, and train a few more of the new ones as well, then trim everything else that comes up. The first year of growth is mostly about establishing a strong root system. On mature plants the first few bines are typically cut back and several of the strongest following shoots are trained. However, since it's a first-year plant and it's getting pretty late in the season, you might be doing more harm by cutting back what you have. There's a fair likelihood some of the new bines you're seeing will overtake the first ones once you train them, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get a few more strong bines trained, you should cut back any new shoots periodically (weekly?) as these will only serve to divert energy from the trained bines. Also, I wouldn't hold out much hope for a good crop from this plant, though you'll likely see some cones. It's probably best to focus at this point on encouraging the plant to set a healthy root system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T15:14:05.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-28T16:31:59.887" Score="2" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reusing my yeast for a while, and my procedure now is to have a wort ready when I want to bottle or keg a previous batch. So I drain the finished beer out of fermentor, and then collect some yeast slurry to a vessel, wash and sanitize the fermentor, put the yeast in it again, and pour the new wort onto it.&#xA;Since I'm reading about it, I know that is possible to rack directly onto the previous yeast cake, but it should be avoided to don't overpitch the wort and becouse it's easier to clean the fermentor after one fermentation cycle than after two cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I was thinking about rack the new batch onto previous cake and wait just the time to hops, break material and dead yeast decant then rack it to a clean vessel with only healty yeast in suspension. Inicially thought to wait just one day to rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems a good/safe procedure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T14:55:26.353" Title="Rack onto yeast cake then fast rack to secondary?" Tags="|yeast|secondary|racking|reuse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17943" CreationDate="2016-06-28T17:49:51.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably as safe as anything in a sanitary environment, though if I'm understanding you correctly it means another, however small, potential window of exposure to dangerous microbes since you're racking twice.  I've reused yeast a few times to no ill effect, but a lot of literature advises against doing it more than that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also sounds like more work to me? Why not just rack some of your slurry into a sanitary container immediately after you rack the prior batch?   You could even keep some sanitized wart in the fridge, say in 2L soda bottles, for this purpose.  Assuming you brew immediately after that racking, that's at least an hour or two to let the liquid you want to decant settle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T17:49:51.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17922" CreationDate="2016-06-28T22:59:26.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the info here is personal anecdote, but it's possible. For extract + steeped grain brewing you can make good beer without boiling the wort at all. Do the hops boil on their own in water, say 5L or so, I've used even less and had good results. Hops utilisation goes down as gravity goes up, so boiling in water at SG 1.000 in theory should give good hops utilisation in lower volumes of water than normal. In practice I've found it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DME or Liquid Extract has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackrock.co.nz/the-process&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;typically already been boiled&lt;/a&gt; (see also &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/17179/13384&quot;&gt;Molot's answer&lt;/a&gt;) in the process of creating it. So DMS precursors have already been driven off, and the hot break has occurred already.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to accept some additional risk of contamination as the wort is not reaching sanitation temp and there is a small chance the extract and/or grain is contaminated. But personally I've brewed probably 10 batches like this when I had limited time and space and never had an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also a &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/17178/do-you-need-to-boil-un-hopped-extract&quot;&gt;related question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13384" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T23:07:08.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="88" CreationDate="2016-06-29T02:28:53.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An interesting point when considering initial and possible secondary fermenter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If we’re going to let the beer sit after its main fermentation is done, it pretty much needs to be in glass, and away from the spent yeast that accumulates at the bottom of your fermenter. - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.keystonehomebrew.com/2010/12/secondary-fermentation-pros-and-cons/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Secondary Fermentation, Pros and Cons.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a noob focussing on IPA, and so far have only made a 1/2 dozen batches.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After trying both approaches - &lt;em&gt;with secondary and without&lt;/em&gt; - I find I get a cleaner and more crisp beer using the glass secondary.  So I think if you are doing all the work to make a good batch of beer already - and you are going for the cleanest filtered result, it is worth the additional medium effort it takes to have a secondary as part of the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case , I have four 1-gallon glass jugs for that. So although there are four bottles to fill up and empty, I find it easy to move them around and whatnot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13146" LastEditorUserId="13146" LastEditDate="2017-03-17T23:26:43.620" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T23:26:43.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17951" CreationDate="2016-06-29T06:06:02.660" Score="1" ViewCount="1342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making apple cider for the first time. I was careful about sanitizing, pasteurising, and adding campden, and I now have what seems to be nice fermentation in an airlocked demijohn.  I did not have pectolaze initially but now I got some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to add pectolaze at this point, or any time later, to reduce haziness? Would it have any effect on taste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13839" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T06:55:28.007" Title="Cider brewing, can I add pectolaze after fermentation started?" Tags="|cider|pectic-enzyme|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17943" CreationDate="2016-06-29T14:47:43.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't wash with wort, you won't get the chance. It will take off before what you want to extract settles.&lt;/strong&gt; Just rack on top the cake and use it for what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you practice good sanitation to the fermentor while racking the old beer out and the new in you can keep it longer. Use a sanitary siphon style cane, or wrap the cane and access port with foil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've kept a yeast cake in the fermentor for over a week and pitched on top of it. Just keep is sealed and cool. If you can refridgerate to 38 or so it should keep as long as new yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Couple notes on racking on top of a primary cake.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be mindful of the contence of the last beer. Dry hops etc can still impart flavors into the new beer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Doing this usually results in an over pitch of yeast. Which is fine for most clean fermentation styles, but not recomended if the style calls for yeast growth esters as they will be very minimal or none at all. For example, I've gotten almost clean lager quality from London ale yeast which is usually fruity.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be prepared for a mess. Use a blow off tube etc. When pitching on a healthy cake it usually takes off very vigorous in just a couple hours.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've only done this twice back to back, some say you can go 4-5 times then the yeast kinda poops out. Because your basically using the same yeast cells and new growth is minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the yeast fed on too much simple sugars the first batch, it may not have the pathways for more complex sugars anymore and may give up on the second batch. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T14:55:26.353" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T14:55:26.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17948" CreationDate="2016-06-29T16:22:54.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was from clear juice it may not need it at all. From fruit then go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pectolase is fine to add at your stage but is better at the start of fermentation so the fermentation helps to keep it moving around, and the enzyme releases more trapped sugars so expect some more fermentation. You should be fine with some good swirling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T16:22:54.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T17:41:02.223" Score="5" ViewCount="547" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title suggests, I was wondering if there was list of environment-friendly sanitizers (such as Star San, as they declare) for brewing equipment out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, I was looking for a powder sanitizer (such as potassium/sodium metabisulfite) which was guaranteed to be eco-friendly. Any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13847" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T04:02:07.223" Title="Environment-friendly sanitizers" Tags="|sanitation|environment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17952" CreationDate="2016-06-30T00:08:41.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;in a short answer.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you really want to find a environmentally friendly sanitizer(that's proven) then use iodophor or star-san. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;longer answer,&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on how sanitized you want things, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.foodservicewarehouse.com/blog/code-green-reconciling-green-cleaning-food-code/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The FDA food code requires that restaurants sanitize any surfaces that come into contact with food. Although many green cleaners have sanitizing properties, the EPA and the FDA food code define “sanitization” of food-contact surfaces as a 99.999% reduction of disease-causing microorganisms within 30 seconds. Unfortunately, most green cleaners do not kill 99.999% of microbes, making it difficult for a restaurant to be “green” and still follow the codes. But that doesn’t mean that green cleaning is an impossible feat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chlorine Solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Chlorine solutions are without a doubt the fastest and cheapest of all&#xA;  the approved sanitizers. However, they are also among the most toxic,&#xA;  corrosive and dangerous of the solutions. Ammonia solutions are&#xA;  generally better than chlorine for the environment, but they are&#xA;  incompatible with many chemicals and other cleaners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Iodine Solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Choose an iodine solution. Among the three most common solutions,&#xA;  iodine is by far the most environmentally friendly. Like the other&#xA;  sanitizers, iodine is toxic in high concentrations and can vaporize&#xA;  into the air. However, iodine occurs naturally around the world, and&#xA;  the amount of iodine humans put into the air is nothing compared to&#xA;  the quantities of iodine that vaporize off the surface of the ocean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally use percarbonate sanitizer, that my LHBS sells. but if i could get it cheap I would use iodophor or star-san sanitizer. even tho i have not had any issues with the percarbonate sanitizer(cleaner), it is not FDA approved as a sanitizer , only a cleaning agent, which it does a great job with. you also may want to check out this previous question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/555/can-oxiclean-be-used-as-a-sanitizer&quot;&gt;Can OxiClean be used as a sanitizer?&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;also, environmentally friendly means you are also disposing the waste water, cleaner in the proper drains or drop off points, and not letting it run to the storm drains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T00:08:41.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-30T08:54:36.987" Score="1" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a fermenting box on the cheap, I have the STC-1000, and an insulated box. What is the best heat source, pads, belts, lamps, fish tank heaters ????&#xA;I am using 5 litre glass carboys..and all grain.&#xA;Marty..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13693" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T07:46:57.203" Title="Keeping a constant fermentation temperature" Tags="|fermentation|temperature|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17948" CreationDate="2016-06-30T16:08:24.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are better off to leave the pectolase on the apples before adding the yeast as the yeast will break down the pectolase and reduce its effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, you will be fine, I have added it after fermentation has begun before and suffer no ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T06:55:28.007" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T06:55:28.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17293" CreationDate="2016-06-30T16:13:08.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just done what you described. I'm not an expert, this is just my 4th batch, but after the priming is finished I'll tell you how it worked. I used inverted sugar syrup which I didn't know the % of sugar in it. I estimated how much sugar there was by diluting it (50% warm water/50% syrup) I used warm water to help dilute the syrup. Next, I used my brewing hydrometer and take a reading like the one you make to know how much sugar there is in the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I knew that I could know how much of this solution I needed to make a priming solution. I did it and then I estimated, not by weight, but by volume, how many ml I needed to add to each bottle. It is easy to find the volume of priming solution to add if you know that a carboy is 5 USGallons=19L and your bottles are 3/4L and 1/3L. Just estimate the sugar per liter you need to use and then multiply this by the fraction of litre there is on each bottle. I'm crossing my fingers not to have my first bottle bomb or flat beer (I almost always under-carbonate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13522" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T16:39:09.033" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T16:39:09.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17956" CreationDate="2016-06-30T16:38:06.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a 1500w space heater with a fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aim it at the wall or have a shield for your carboys. I've found if warm air hits the carboy directly it will kinda bake on krausen in that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent the heater from comming on right after the freezer cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put your prob in a thermo well in the fermentor, or a large glass bottle of water. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set the temp variance to 1-2° not the 0.1°&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set the delay to 1-2 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't aim the heater at the temp prob. Put it in a place that gets a good ambient if it's not in the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T16:38:06.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17956" CreationDate="2016-06-30T21:07:53.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is a Pad or belt. and as EZ stated, thermowell, for the temp sensor in the carboy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;do not use fishtank heaters, those are meant for water heating only and may malfunction, and usually contain a temp control on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as looking at your comment too, the heating cord may work too, but it will take longer to get to your desired temp, but will keep it there as long as the settings are correct, and you are not opening the insulated box very often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T21:07:53.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17907" CreationDate="2016-06-30T22:56:28.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay so for those that are reading this I have found the answers to these questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How much yeast to 1 gallon of organic cider: 1/2 Packet of champagne yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How long to let it ferment for that beer taste: about 4 days.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once it is done fermenting do I need to do anything or just refrigerate it? YES! Remove the hard cider with a pump into another jug leaving the yeast cake at the bottom. Add some honey or brown sugar to back sweeten and cap tight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I start another jug with the fermented apple juice as a starter? Yes!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to add yeast along the way while it ferments: No but there are some yeast feeders you can buy if you want to ferment for higher alcohol levels beyond a few days. Warning, the cider gets drier the longer you ferment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is putting it atop the refrigerator okay or should it be in my pantry? Cool dark place is best but refrigerator top is okay if it is cool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to stir it or do anything else? NO! Just keep the cap ajar or better yet use a cork bubbler that lets gas out and keeps it water tight. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I side note you can use cider that is pasteurized but shy away from concentrate juices however I have heard you can still use concentrate, even frozen... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Although you can use bread yeast you will not get a high alcohol content because the yeast stalls out after a couple of days whereas champagne or beer yeasts go many days longer for higher alcohol content.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy the yeast packets online at your most popular general sites. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13854" LastEditorUserId="13839" LastEditDate="2016-07-04T18:50:03.063" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T18:50:03.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17293" CreationDate="2016-07-01T05:53:08.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the numbers that I use to calculate the amoutn of priming Sugar that I use (based on actual Sugar, not syrup, but that should be easy to convert):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 grams of Sugar (Sucrose) per liter will produce 1 volume of CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might need some more explination. You will have notived that not every beer has the same carbonation and you can easily vary this yourself when home brewing. Some guidelines for different styles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ales: 1.5 - 2.0 Volumes of CO2&#xA;Lagers: 2.0 - 2.5 Volumes of CO2&#xA;Stouts: 2.0 - 2.5 Volumes of CO2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the amount of priming Sugar will depend on the beer that you are producing and the amount of carbonation that you would like to add. It is important to note that fermented beer already holds around 1 volume of CO2, so you will have to subtract that in your calculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prime a 330 ml bottle of Porter (which is what I am doing right now), looking for 2.5 volumes of CO2 (I want it pretty foamy):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.5 - 1.0 (the residual CO2) = 1.5 Volumes of CO2 to add&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.0 (grams of Sugar per volume of CO2) x 1.5 Volumes of CO2 to add = 6.0 grams of sugar / liter of beer to add 1.5 volumes of CO2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for bulk priming 20 liters, one should add 20 x 6.0 = 120 grams of Sugar&#xA;and for 330 ml bottle priming, one should add 0.33 x 6 = 2 grams / bottle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is much easier and much more accurate to add 120 grams in one go to the whole batch of beer, over adding 2 grams to each bottle. You might also have bottles of different sizes (I always do), in which case bulk priming has another benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13856" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T05:53:08.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-01T12:21:53.513" Score="4" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an all-grain recipe for a Belgian ale. My OG came out to 1.052 rather than 1.081-5. What can I do to raise the OG before pitching the yeast? Will a pound or two of malt extract help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13858" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T17:46:24.603" Title="Raising OG before pitching yeast" Tags="|all-grain|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17963" CreationDate="2016-07-01T13:15:57.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really quick answer, yes you can. Check exactly how much you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T13:15:57.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17963" CreationDate="2016-07-01T14:35:28.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use an extract gravity calculator like this one to help you figure out how much extract you'll need. &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewerslair.com/index.php?p=brewhouse&amp;amp;d=calculators&amp;amp;id=cal22&amp;amp;u=eng&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brewerslair.com/index.php?p=brewhouse&amp;amp;d=calculators&amp;amp;id=cal22&amp;amp;u=eng&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these calculators are normally for the total gravity of an extract brew, you need to cheat slightly. Gravity is essentially additive, so drop off the 1s (the 1 is the water, which you can disregard) and and subtract your measured gravity from your target gravity to get how many points you need to make up for. 0.083-0.052=0.031, so input 1.031 into the target gravity (remember to put the 1 from the water back on there). Then input your final volume, the type of extract, and you should have the exact amount of malt you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13823" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T14:35:28.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17963" CreationDate="2016-07-01T17:46:24.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others said yes you can boost the OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More importantly you need to address why the gravity was missed by a large margin&lt;/strong&gt;. Here's a couple thoughts considering it sounds like a Belgian double or strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Did you forget the Belgian candy sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Did your grain have the diastatic power for the mash? IE too much Crystal / roasted malts, very high water grist ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Was the grain even milled? If so was cracked fine enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Was the grain the proper amount? Unit conversions can be tricky. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Did your mash even convert? Sounds like you may have only utilized the crystal malts. Similar to 2. Use an iodine test to check if the saccarification is done. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How old was the grain? Was it stored in a cool place? If too hot it could have lost diastatic power. &gt;149°F typical temp in a cargo container or car in the summer will denature beta-amylase.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Was the boil long enough and an open boil to allow enough evaporation for the recipe? This can dilute an OG 20%, say if it was a 5g batch and had 0 evaporation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T17:46:24.603" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17956" CreationDate="2016-07-01T18:41:42.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a reptile heater lamp.  It gives off no light and is easy to control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T18:41:42.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17968" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-02T17:13:28.583" Score="2" ViewCount="646" Body="&lt;p&gt;What attenuation percentages have people actually seen with this yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back of the package specifies the attenuation as &quot;HIGH&quot;, but my own experience suggest that it is medium or low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T11:58:28.340" Title="Yeast Attenuation: Mangrove Jack's M79 Burton Union" Tags="|yeast|attenuation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17968" CreationDate="2016-07-02T17:13:28.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made the following beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;90% malted 2-row barley&#xA;10% flaked maize&#xA;&#xA;mashed between 66 and 69 degrees celcius&#xA;&#xA;1.043 original gravity&#xA;      fermented with M79&#xA;1.011 final gravity&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had I fermented this with my usual Nottingham, I would have expected this to get down to around 1.007 FG.  I fermented with M79, and it only got down to about 1.011 (about 70% attenuation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The beer has been in the bottle only for one week, but so far it's tasting very nice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some support for my belief that Nottingham would have attenuated this quite a bit further.  I brew with what I call a &quot;parallel parti-gyle&quot; system which allows me to make 2 beers (with potentially different gravities) from the same wort.  The other beer I made with this wort yielded:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1.052 original gravity&#xA;      fermented with Nottingham&#xA;1.008 final gravity&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T02:56:28.383" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T02:56:28.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17952" CreationDate="2016-07-04T04:02:07.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like jsolarski said, I don't think those powdered cleaners are considered sanitizers.  I've always been under the impression that they sanitize with adequate exposure, but they are intended to remove grime more than to kill bacteria/fungi. For kegs, I'll use PBW to clean but I still contact sanitize with a quick bleach solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preferring environmental friendliness myself, any time I can manage it I'll happily depend on heat. I'm pretty comfortable pouring boiling water on a surface that has been cleaned by one of those powdered cleaners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T04:02:07.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17968" CreationDate="2016-07-04T15:20:28.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The attenuation rating for yeast is meant as a way of comparing one strain to another using a standard wort.  It may not reflect the attenuation you can actually expect.  The actual attenuation is much more dependent on wort composition than attenuation rating.  Using the same yeast I can get anywhere from about 60-85% attenuation depending on the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T15:20:28.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17977" CreationDate="2016-07-05T20:28:15.993" Score="2" ViewCount="3868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make some ginger beer. I want it to be non-alcoholic, and I am ordering some wine yeast to ferment it. I have two questions about yeast, though, since I am new to fermenting anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Do I need to kill the yeast off with anything before it is safe to drink? I've read some online articles that say that ingesting active yeast is dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) How much alcohol will develop by the time enough fermentation has occurred to get fizzy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I really know next to nothing about alcoholic beverages. I just don't want to get drunk/tipsy on a glass or two of this stuff, and I will (if it turns out good) be serving it to some friends as well. The recipe I'm going to follow is &lt;a href=&quot;http://toriavey.com/toris-kitchen/2013/09/the-old-fashioned-way-homemade-ginger-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13870" LastEditorUserId="13870" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T05:48:49.180" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T20:06:56.657" Title="Yeast for making (non alchoholic) ginger beer" Tags="|yeast|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17973" CreationDate="2016-07-05T23:38:31.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I've never brewed anything non alcoholic but I know adding yeast to it will result in fermentation and produce alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you could mix up/infuse the ingredients in your recipe, boil it to sanitise it (to maybe kill off any wild yeast) and cool it rapidly. Alternatively, you could use the correct amount of Sodium Metabisulfite (Campden tablets) to sanitise your ginger and other raw ingredients if you want to avoid boiling it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your last point refers to what we call bottle conditioning/secondary fermentation where you would bottle (or keg) the brew after primary fermentation is done with some carefully measured sugar or other fermentable ingredient to activate the dormant yeast into making enough C02 to produce bubbles. Since you don't want to end up with alcohol, you would probably need to force carbonate it in order to get the fizz you require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for ingesting yeast being dangerous - where did you hear that? Can you cite your sources? Most yeasts (At least the ones used to brew and bake) are probiotic (literally means: for life in Latin) and are actually good for you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13431" LastEditorUserId="13431" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T23:54:28.270" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T23:54:28.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17973" CreationDate="2016-07-07T11:48:27.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ingesting active yeast is not dangerous.  If it was people drinking unfiltered craft beer or any kind of real yogurt would have died off centuries ago.  The worst that can happen is that too much yeast may upset your stomach or your digestive process for a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its hard to say how much alcohol you'll get because its really depends on how active you let the yeast get before you chill it down and how cold you keep it after that.  I think that you'll likely find with that high degree of acidity in the posted recipe it won't be too hard to keep it in check.  I wouldn't expect more that 2%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you are really concerned with the alcohol level I'd recommend one of two things:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a hyrdometer and learn how to use it to determine the amount of alcohol produced.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Invest in some equipment that will allow you to carbonate without using yeast at all.  Its called forced carbonation.  Using something like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/co2-injector-ball-lock.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CO2 charger&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.williamsbrewing.com/STAINLESS-CARBONATION-CAP-WITH-DIP-TUBE-P3609.aspx?gclid=CJCy8tmi4c0CFckehgodanAIuw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carbonation cap&lt;/a&gt;.  (You're really making soda at that point but who cares if it tastes the way you want?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the yeast choice, the recipe you posted seems to just use active bread yeast.  That shouldn't really be a problem for such a short ferment.  If you really wanted to you could go up to a neutral ale yeast like a Fermentis US05 or as mentioned, champagne yeast.  I think champagne yeast is a bad choice if you are concerned about alcohol because it will likely be more aggressive of a fermentor in this recipe and it'll be more difficult to control the end product. (And by more difficult I am really gearing that statement towards someone with little fermentation experience.  No offense I hope.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T11:48:27.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17968" CreationDate="2016-07-07T11:58:28.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that your pack wasn't as healthy or fresh as what you are used to seeing with Nottingham packs.  I saw several other posts online of poor fermentation characters from this same yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So comparing the attenuation from one manufacturer to the next might be a little misleading.  I'd had to see how low attenuating mangrove jack yeast strain would perform based on this data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were doing true partigyle it is possible that the second runnings started to pull a little more non fermentables from the mash too.  But your method of PG might be different from mine, so YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T11:58:28.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17980" CreationDate="2016-07-07T15:50:07.380" Score="2" ViewCount="1868" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I clean my set (&gt;30) of PET bottles? I'm dealing with dried beer and yeast residue from my previous batch. I doubt I can use hot water, since it would deform the plastic.  Do I need to scrub the inside of every single bottle, or is there an easier/faster way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13877" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T19:59:58.220" Title="Cleaning Many PET Bottles" Tags="|cleaning|bottles|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17979" CreationDate="2016-07-07T16:13:46.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warm water from the tap will not deform the bottles.  If you are worried about it you can temper the water with cooler tap water.  Use hot water to dissolve some oxyclean or PBW.  Temper it with the cooler water.  Make a big enough batch to soak the bottles in overnight and you'll be fine.  No scrubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I regularly do this in a large plastic bin or a large kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T16:13:46.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18002" CreationDate="2016-07-09T17:27:21.370" Score="3" ViewCount="2287" Body="&lt;p&gt;Northern Brewer has a product called Fast Pitch Canned Wort. The instructions say that you can just mix it with water out of the tap and then pitch yeast to make a yeast starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this not requiring any boiling? Presumably the canned wort itself is sterile, but what about the water that is added, and what about the outside of the container? In a video, a Northern Brewer employee just opens the can with his grubby hands, adds water and pitches yeast into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this not a recipe for a an infected starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2019-11-10T11:04:12.437" Title="Why does Northern Brewer's Fast Pitch Canned Wort not require any boiling?" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18020" CreationDate="2016-07-10T01:30:04.887" Score="4" ViewCount="777" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I was searching how to solve some brewing problems I watched a video for picobrew Pico &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/LFtH24eCNbU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/LFtH24eCNbU&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This machine will be in the markets soon ... but there was another products already in the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Question: is it better than home brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13886" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T08:40:21.067" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T22:34:22.330" Title="Picobrew Pico VS home brewing" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17984" CreationDate="2016-07-10T02:21:06.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends what you mean by better. Using a regular homebrew system with tanks/pots gives you flexibility to deal with any problems or whims of fancy as they come, whereas the PicoBrew system looks more like for someone who wants to run dependable recipes without paying much attention to the actual brew. It depends what matters to you more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13877" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T02:21:06.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3561" CreationDate="2016-07-10T05:02:16.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have been doing cider for sometime and decided to do a BIG double IPA. Threw my yeast in at 120 f after watching a YouTube video that did not even show the cool down temp process...low and behold I had a pillow near the carboy the entire first night and the batch was, well...not to excited with me. &#xA;Asked my local home brew supplier and he advised to add another 2 packs of yeast to my carboy that I most likely burnt initial yeast. So farrr.... 3 days of glorious action with wort foam and 11th day percolation rate of a bubble every 90 seconds!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Healthy yeast, pay no attention to the mass burning of your species as they float by you...thus the circle of life&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13887" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T05:02:16.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17984" CreationDate="2016-07-10T12:55:58.697" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a fan, it's the keurig of beer. I guess if you have a beard and can't change a tire this is what you buy to say you made a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Understanding how beer is made and executing makes you a homebrewer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T12:55:58.697" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17989" CreationDate="2016-07-10T19:22:20.630" Score="2" ViewCount="1046" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 100% pilsner mashes that are fermented with Wyeast 3711 French Saison routinely hit a FG of 0.996.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If bacteria contamination was introduced after fermentation was complete, is it possible for the beer to become 'infected' (or otherwise have off flavors)? For example, do I need to sanitize my kegs or bottles in this circumstance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T22:12:45.293" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T22:16:06.907" Title="Can a homebrew with a FG of less than 1.000 become infected?" Tags="|contamination|saison|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17988" CreationDate="2016-07-10T20:18:47.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a beer can still get bacterial/fungal contamination when its SG is below 1, though it will be a much less hospitable environment than higher SG beers since the available nutrients will be less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A finished beer with a specific gravity of 0.996 actually does have residual unfermented/unfermentable extract, which some microbes can make use of to grow. I don't know what your OG was, so for argument's sake I'll say it was 1.050. Your final gravity represents the &lt;em&gt;apparent&lt;/em&gt; attenuation of the beer (i.e. the actual measured gravity). Due to ethanol being less dense than water, an alcoholic solution can appear to have no remaining extract (SG below 1), when it actually does (the density of the extract is just offset by that of the ethanol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; attenuation you have to multiply the apparent attenuation by 0.819, which corrects for ethanol's lower density. So where your measured final gravity (representing apparent attenuation) is below 1, the &quot;real final gravity&quot; (more accurately, the specific gravity if you replaced all the ethanol with water) would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Apparent attenuation = 1.050 - 0.996 = 0.054&#xA;&#xA;Real attenuation = 0.054 * 0.819 = ~0.0442&#xA;&#xA;Real degree of fermentation = 1.050 - 0.0442 = 1.0058&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;~1.006&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, it will be less likely to harbor biological contamination due to low levels of nutrients but is technically prone to the same set of beer spoiling microbes, some capable of utilizing unfermentable extract or oxidizing ethanol, as any other beer. In this case I can't see a good reason not to be just as cautious with your sanitizing as with any other beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T22:16:06.907" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T22:16:06.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17992" CreationDate="2016-07-11T02:25:49.937" Score="3" ViewCount="1079" Body="&lt;p&gt;About every other day I notice a grasshopper or two on my hops. I'm pretty sure they are eating them since there are little bites taken out of the leaves. Any suggestions on how to keep them away, aside from manually killing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12524" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T18:07:14.720" Title="How to keep grasshoppers off hops" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17990" CreationDate="2016-07-11T03:37:11.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attract natural preditors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try bird feeder with minimal food to get birds attracted to the area, but keep them hungry. Birds will usually go for juicy insect over seed if given the chance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid insecticides. Many of the toxins used in them have very high boiling points and could carry through into beer. While most toxins wash from produce, washing hops will wash away lupins and you won't be happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T03:37:11.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17990" CreationDate="2016-07-11T04:12:39.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At all costs, avoid using Pesticides! Besides affecting your beer, some pesticides could remain in the soil for quite some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are however some natural ways to keep them off your hops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 Grow a variety of flowering, fragrant plants in your garden to attract beneficial insects and birds. Birds, frogs, rodents, praying mantises, spiders and many other insects like to eat grasshoppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2 Plant herbs and flowers that grasshoppers hate near and around plants that you want to protect. Cilantro, calendula, sweet clover, peas and horehound effectively repel grasshoppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3 Make a garlic oil spray by combining 1 ounce of mineral oil with 3 ounces of chopped garlic. Allow the mixture to soak for 24 hours and then strain. Combine 16 ounces of water, 1 teaspoon of fish emulsion and 1 tablespoon of Castile soap. Combine the fish emulsion and garlic mixtures. To ward off grasshoppers, mix 2 tablespoons of the garlic oil with 1 pint of water and pour into a spay bottle. Spray the garlic oil on the foliage of plants and directly on grasshoppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4 Protect plants with a lightweight cloth or a floating row cover. Use stakes to keep the fabric above the plants and discourage grasshoppers from chewing through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5 Bury glass jars in the soil around your plants. Make a mixture of one part molasses and 10 parts water. Fill each jar halfway with the molasses mixture. The sweet fragrance attracts grasshoppers, and they fall into the jars and drown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6 Cultivate your garden's soil in the fall to expose buried grasshopper egg pods. Cultivation exposes the egg pods to predators and the weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;7 Apply Nosema locustae, a grasshopper-killing parasite, to your plants. This parasite also kills praying mantises, crickets and other bugs closely related to grasshoppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;8 Allow a patch of grass to grow uncut in an isolated corner of the garden. Long grass serves as a habitat for grasshoppers, where they gather to breed and hide from predators. This makes it easier to control and eliminate a large number of grasshoppers at once. -  &lt;a href=&quot;http://homeguides.sfgate.com/keep-grasshoppers-off-leaves-naturally-35891.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Keep Grasshoppers Off Leaves Naturally.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a question of only a few grasshoppers, you could catch them for any friends you might have that like to go fishing. Grasshoppers make excellent bait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T04:12:39.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T05:39:10.967" Score="2" ViewCount="1151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brand new to home brewing and have bought a starter kit and a box of Norfolk Wherry. &#xA;We are 1 day into our 6 day first ferment, and this morning my fermenting tub was whistling because there was so much gas built up under the lid. &#xA;I have let it out, for fear of the lid shooting off and exploding everywhere.... Am now concerned that I may have ruined the beer?? Any advice would be greatly received&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13890" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T08:57:15.350" Title="Gas in first ferment" Tags="|beer|first-time-brewer|gas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12574" CreationDate="2016-07-11T06:03:18.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I overcame this problem by replacing my BIAB bag with 4 paint strainer bags, putting a quarter of the grain bill in each, and sealing with plastic zip ties. Put one bag at a time into your kettle, ensuring that all the grains are exposed to the water. Give the bags a stir every 15 - 20 minutes until mashout. &#xA;Quite easy to remove one bag at a time, draining each one for about a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to adjust your water strike temperature upwards a degree or two, as it will take you five minutes or so to ensure that the grains in each bag have come into contact with the water. Works great for me, and for bigger beers you can always use an extra bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got this idea from a Toronto homebrew site in Canada, Schoenwetter Brewing, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T06:03:18.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17993" CreationDate="2016-07-11T06:29:24.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have not ruined the beer. If anything early in the fermentation, day 1-2 letting in a little oxygen is good for the yeast as it allows them to form more flexible cell walls. As Yeast require oxygen to create sterols which maintain cell wall flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually you want to leave the lid covering but not locked down for day 1-2, to stop CO2 pressure build up. Then end of day 2 clip it down and leave it to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it says 6 days for fermentation, I would usually leave it for 10 to ensure it is fully fermented out. To do this properly you should take a gravity reading, but if you are too busy or unsure then a few extra days in the fermenter won't hurt and will ensure it is fermented out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T06:29:24.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17984" CreationDate="2016-07-11T06:36:27.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you live in a very small city studio flat then this may be the way for you, very little space is taken up and it all come very neatly packaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... if you want to make your own beer recipes, not one devised by another and want to learn the process and experiment then is is probably not for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is a brilliant idea, I don't know how much you would hack it and add some extra malt here or swap out the hops there, but for a simple easy to use system with little mess and very low space requirements I think it is wonderful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will not be buying one, but it depends what experience you want, and how much you love cleaning fermenters :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T06:36:27.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18012" CreationDate="2016-07-12T02:26:24.207" Score="1" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instance,how to make a grapefruit IPA.Do you use peel or zest or flavoring?When to add.Boil,flameout,fermenter,keg?Blood orange is another one i'd like to do.As far as amounts,i can probably figure that out.I'm a long time all grain homebrewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13894" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T21:36:05.540" Title="Citrus fruits in beer" Tags="|all-grain|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17997" CreationDate="2016-07-12T17:39:14.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, pick hops that will accentuate the flavor you are after. There are several hop varieties that can lend citrus/grapefruit flavors: Citra, Cascade, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, when I have brewed with citrus, I added zest at knockout. Let it steep for a few minutes with the heat off and then leave it in as you run the beer out to a chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T17:39:14.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17979" CreationDate="2016-07-12T19:50:26.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first trick is never to let beer and yeast dry in the bottles. Rinse them out as soon as they're empty and leave them full of water until you can clean them properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PBW is more more effective than percarbonate (oxyclean), but percarbonate is cheaper. In either case 60 Centigrade is the best compromise between effective cleaning and not damaging PET. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T19:50:26.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17973" CreationDate="2016-07-12T19:53:38.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have made naturally carbonated root beer in the past, the alcohol produced in the short time it takes to carbonate in bottles is negligible. Probably same or higher alcohol content in the dregs of a bottle of grape juice after a few weeks in the fridge. &#xA;Keep tasting the soda from time to time to monitor the carbonation level, some tough little yeast beasts will continue to work, so don't plan on keeping it in the fridge for months!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13898" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T19:53:38.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17982" CreationDate="2016-07-12T19:57:06.923" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Malt extract does not need to be boiled to make beer. It is perfectly possible to make beer using extract and cold water although it s a little easier if you dissolve the extract in boiling water first - just to make it more mobile and to pasteurise it if you feel it is needed. But just getting it hot to get out of the can and into the fermentation vessel is all that is needed. Once the Saccharomyces is fermenting well it forms a stable microbiome and (all things being equal) such a microbiome reduces the chance of infection from other sources. Sort of like penicillin mould keeps many bacteria at bay. Or used to.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking water sources are chosen because they don't have contaminants. If one has to boil the water that one drinks then it will have to be boiled for any culinary use, including making beer. However fermentation (with saccharomyces or lactobacilius) is a  method that can render water borne pathogens inactive and has probably been used as such for aeons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T08:03:38.860" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T08:03:38.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17979" CreationDate="2016-07-12T19:59:58.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all else fails one can use Sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner) solution, it will dissolve most organic masses and is used commercially to remove the crud at the bottom of red wine fermentation vessels. Rinse well after soaking! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T19:59:58.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17973" CreationDate="2016-07-12T20:06:56.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One can use yeast for a fast ferment in an attempt to keep the alcohol down and just produce enough gas to carbonate the drink. Something like 4g per bottle (equivalent to brewers &quot;priming&quot; their beer) should do the trick. But it does produce a (very) weak alcoholic drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One (&quot;the real&quot;) way to make alcohol free ginger beer is to use &quot;Ginger beer plant&quot; which is a SCOBY (complex culture) comprising lactobacillius and saccharomyces. That does produce alcohol but in very small amounts. In the main it produces lactic acid and carbon dioxide (for carbonation). This is the traditional ginger beer that was given to children in Edwardian England. &quot;Lashings and lashings of Ginger beer!&quot; It is also full of friendly bacteria and can be used to make water safer to drink by a process of biological purification. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T20:06:56.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17997" CreationDate="2016-07-12T20:10:15.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some brewers will use juice or whole fruit late in the boil, but I find the results are like mixing fruit wine and beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add zest I make a tincture. Stand the zest in a small amount of vodka for a couple of days and add it to the secondary along with dry hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T20:10:15.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17922" CreationDate="2016-07-12T20:13:16.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the idea that there is no overwhelming need to boil all the wort. And no need at all if making beer from malt extract. If isomerisation of hop bittering compounds is required it can be done efficiently using water alone to boil the hop and then the hop tea can be strained into the wort. It also seems to be true that hop conversion is more efficient in pure water and less efficient in wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an emerging debate on whether wort made by an all grain process (not extract) needs to be boiled as holding the wort at 65 degrees will be an effective method of pasteurisation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T20:13:16.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17997" CreationDate="2016-07-12T20:14:23.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always added zest, coriander, and/or arroma hops after fermentation which requires another rack a good chill and/or more time, dependent on your brewing technique, and equipment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13898" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T20:14:23.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17783" CreationDate="2016-07-12T20:17:53.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I leave my brews on the yeast for 14 days then rack off the trub into a clean container. I leave it there for up to ten days more (but usually 4-5) to clear more fully. Then I pour it on the priming sugar in solution and bottle. So one can leave the brew for some time and it will still bottle condition correctly. I have left a lager for 6-8 weeks and then poured it onto the priming sugar in solution and the lager was nice a fizzy. SO even when very clear/bright I find that there is yeast there for carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T20:17:53.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17875" CreationDate="2016-07-12T20:23:57.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;dextrose ferments cleanly with little residue, except alcohol and CO2!&#xA;Malt (ie. extract) is composed of fermentable sugars and unfermentable carbohydrates (eg maltodextrins). The unfermentabel carbs contribute to the beer turbidity and &quot;mouth feel&quot;. They also increase the calorie count of the beer. The fermentable sugars ferment much like brewing sugar (dextrose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if one wants a light but strong beer, the malt is balanced with more dextrose. If one wants heavy but not so strong ale then malt and no sugars are used. That is not a technically precise definition but it gives an idea of how one can be used with the other  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2016-07-13T07:57:04.703" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T07:57:04.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17922" CreationDate="2016-07-12T20:31:08.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wild yeast in the grain don't seem to hold their alcohol very well, a strong yeast starter will work well almost every time IME. I learned to brew 35 yrs ago, we never boiled beer wort then.&#xA;These days I take every precaution, which includes boiling 100% of the wort! I just cant afford to dump a large batch, and also believe every little nuance will effect the finished product!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13898" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T20:31:08.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17990" CreationDate="2016-07-12T20:58:49.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use insect cloth while the plants are small. It also keeps off larger more serious pests like rabbits. Once the plants are waist high grasshoppers shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T20:58:49.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17997" CreationDate="2016-07-12T21:36:05.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many commercial examples will use the whole fruit puree peels and all. Hangar 24 orange wheat for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sam Calagione has in his book Extreme Brewing a great chart for what temps are best for most fruits. Most are added at about 155-169°F after flame out, then held for 20 minutes to pasteurize and get flavor extraction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would only add citrus puree at the above temps, not to cool wort or in secondary. To prevent wild yeast from taking hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only use dried peels for secondary additions. You can make your own in the oven to insure wild yeasts are killed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T21:36:05.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-12T23:43:05.377" Score="1" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a kegerator made for one keg. However it holds 2 so I like to have one near ready when the primary keg goes empty. My question is. If I transfer my latest beer batch from the secondary to my standby keg and pump it up with CO2 do I have to leave it connected to the co2 line? Will it still carbonate or at least start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13901" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T06:17:12.853" Title="Carbonating keg without having it hooked up" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18013" CreationDate="2016-07-13T02:17:21.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to keep it hooked up typically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about it this way, you have 4.5 gallons of beer, that is supposed to be carbonated at 12psi. If you have 0.5 gallons of headspace, then the CO2 pressure is reduced 10 times as it expands into the 5 gallons, so the resulting beer would have a carbonation equivalent to 1.2psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is repeatedly pressurize the keg, say, every day, but not keep it hooked up permanently. After a couple of weeks the keg will be carbonated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach is to force carbonate by setting the desired target pressure and rolling the keg around back and forth until the CO2 stops flowing. If the keg is chilled, this can take less than 15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T02:17:21.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18013" CreationDate="2016-07-13T02:27:12.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do, but you're able to, at least if you time it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say – as you assume – your primary/dispense keg is already stable; it's carbonated and you have a batch waiting in secondary, and you intend to pipeline new kegs through the kegerator. What I would do is … when you're about 2/3rds of the way through the first keg, give the headspace a couple/few more psi than serving pressure, then switch over to force-carb the new keg. The huge volume of headspace pressure relative to the already-carbonated beer will let you serve the last third without issue (there's enough residual pressure in 2/3rds of the keg's headspace to draft for many many pours), balanced by enough time to force-carb the new keg at the appropriate volume/time for the temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To provide a bit of contrast, consider the case where you start off with two totally full kegs in there. You're force-carbing &quot;A&quot; to start off; done after a week-ish. You start to dispense from &quot;A&quot;, and as soon as you do, the now much-smaller headspace needs to be replenished. After that occurs (maybe just a few hours), you can switch carbonation over to &quot;B&quot;, and start it's &quot;week long&quot; journey to carbonation. You dispense from &quot;A&quot;, now it needs a top-off. Few seconds, then back to &quot;B&quot; to continue force-carb.  Dispense from &quot;A&quot;, top-off for a couple few seconds, then back to &quot;B&quot;.  It keeps going like this, with the periods between ever longer each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key thing is that you have a second slot so you can get the beer down to temp and force-carb it for at least a week, which is (hopefully) long enough to last a 1/3rd of a keg … in that way you should be able to pipeline kegs through the system pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T02:27:12.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15307" CreationDate="2016-07-13T03:53:00.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a definite flavor curve on most ales.Maybe not so much on commercial brews as homebrew.I think it's at least partially a function of gravity,with the solids(flavor?)dropping out over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13894" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T03:53:00.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17993" CreationDate="2016-07-13T08:25:10.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer can be fermented in an open barrel. I don't totally recommend it for the faint hearted but the Belgian Lambic brewers do this. A vent should be left in a fermentation vessel, eg a bubble trap or just leave the lid unclipped SLIGHTLY - you don't want flies in there! I would not recommend clipping down the lid before a week. and then check on the pressure daily. Allowing air to come into contact with beer is not such a terrible thing. To aid clearing I pour my beer from a 25 litre bucket into another in air. Lots of foaming and swoshing. Then I put the lid on and leave it for some more days until it has dropped bright. Then I pour it back onto a solution of the priming sugar (with foaming and swoshing) before bottling or kegging. So if I can do that (and I do it regularly) then letting the gas out is probably of no consequence at all. I wouldn't worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is best if beer is left for a longer rather than a shorter time to condition. IMHO Beer should be about 14 days (and longer like lager) in various primary fermentations and then at least 14 days in secondary (carbonation) fermentation/conditioning. Leaving it for a month to condition would not be wrong. One can certainly drink young/mild beer after some days but it improves &lt;em&gt;greatly&lt;/em&gt; with some maturing over at least a fortnight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T08:25:10.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18019" CreationDate="2016-07-13T10:53:25.577" Score="2" ViewCount="986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what the easiest way to wash yeast after a brew might be, with the aim to store it in the fridge. The usual recommended method I've seen is to boil the water used for washing with the containers together first - but it seems to me quite a slow process (have to wait for cooling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible to just wash the yeast with tap water - or alternatively wash the yeast with starsan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps the area I'm in has pretty good water quality - spring water with minimal treatment and no heavy mineral content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3283" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T06:42:13.110" Title="Can I wash yeast with tap water or starsan?" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18018" CreationDate="2016-07-13T11:00:01.547" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Washing yeast with Starsan will kill most of the yeast.  Just like it kills off other microbes in your equipment when you sanitize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All stored yeast should really be used within a few weeks.  I prefer to just leave the beer on top of the yeast in a mason jar.  Washing is not necessary.  I decant the spent beer when I am ready to pitch into a new starter wort the day of brewing or the night before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people do use straight tap water to wash with but there is a risk if picking up microbial contamination.  Also boiling the water helps to de-oxygenate it to a point which is something else you want when storing yeast. (Another reason why I just like the spent beer on top)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T11:00:01.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17984" CreationDate="2016-07-13T18:49:22.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Pico.  You really can't compare it to homebrewing.  It's not intended to be the same thing.  It's for craft beer lovers who want to drink beers they can't get otherwise, or who just want the freshness of making it themselves.  I also have a Zymatic and a traditional cooler based system.  Which one I use depends on my goals and what I feel like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T18:49:22.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18024" CreationDate="2016-07-14T08:04:13.250" Score="2" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing lager for the first time. Primary fermentation is completed in 2 weeks without anything negative under 8-10 Celcius. But after putting it to the secondary fermenter it seems my fridge has broken when I was away. I think the temp was around-23-25 C after fridge broke down. Perhaps it stayed like this around 2 weeks. Should I pour it to toilet? Or should I bottle it?&#xA;Thanks for responses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12672" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T18:33:33.950" Title="Lager got warmed when doing secondary fermentation" Tags="|lager|bottle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T08:22:04.303" Score="1" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just done a 5 liter all grain brew. The Original specific gravity is supposed to be 1050, but its 1020. What have I done wrong, and will the brew be OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that I had the grains properly crushed but maybe not, I'm using my homemade pasta machine mill I had the temperature as per the recipe @ 76.5 Deg C for 45 min 3 liters BIAB, with a 4 liter BIAB sparge @ 71 deg. C, it was a red ale, and I had to top up with a little water during the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13693" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T08:41:26.127" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T17:43:35.067" Title="My OG is too low" Tags="|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18022" CreationDate="2016-07-14T08:50:15.157" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Did you properly crash the grains?&#xA;2- What was the temperature when mashing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GrainWater mixture must stay between 63-68 C for 1 hour. For Bag method same applies. 73 C strike water is required. Perhaps 76.5 C is too high to release enzymes. Perhaps you added too much water. And perhaps 45 minutes should be 1 hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12672" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T08:46:41.207" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T08:46:41.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18021" CreationDate="2016-07-14T10:59:10.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine.  The results are really to lager strain dependent.  That said, I have made several lagers that were great and ready to drink without a true lager phase.  (Not to say they didn't get better as things went alone in the kegorator.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should really let your palate be your guide.  If it tastes great but the process didn't go along according to some &quot;ideal&quot; methodology...who cares?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T10:59:10.290" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18022" CreationDate="2016-07-14T17:00:07.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you didn't get much saccarification (sugars coverted from starch) in the mash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: poor crush on the grain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: low diastatic power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: high water grist ratio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4: mash not long enough&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: just did the C/F conversions. &lt;strong&gt;At 169.7°F your mash was too hot and you denatured your enzymes&lt;/strong&gt;, causing low diastatic power and giving little saccarification.&#xA;If you still have the grist you can correct the temp to 154°ish and add enzymes to remash. Adding a couple pounds of 6-row should boost the diastatic power to get 1.050 out of a second mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your comments give the water volumes but not the grains. Your gravity of 1.020 would be from less than 2lb of 2-row with proper saccarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T17:12:31.300" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T17:12:31.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18018" CreationDate="2016-07-15T06:42:13.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If tap water is safe to use or not will depend on who you ask and where in the world they live. I'd seek advice about that locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Around where I live pretty much everyone I know just use straight tap water for re-hydration, topping up and washing yeast. Few people have any qualms about it. But that's somewhere where everyone has grown up with clean and safe tap water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get an answer from somewhere where water hasn't always been safe, even if it is now, and the answer would be very different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13548" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T06:42:13.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2016-07-15T21:43:05.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making apple wine for a short time. I've had good results so far using Fleischmann's baking yeast. I recently purchased a cider kit that came with cider yeast. I'll assume that will probably probably work good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13909" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T21:43:05.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3030" CreationDate="2016-07-15T23:23:44.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not at all necessary to boil the malt extract &quot;wort&quot;. It is only necessary to boil the hops.  The hops can be boiled in water alone for the required 60-90 minutes or whatever time is needed for the various hop additions used. Once the &quot;hop tea&quot; is ready it can be strained into the fermentation vessel and rinsed with boiled water. If worried about sterility, one can dissolve the malt extract in just boiled water and add to the fermentation vessel - otherwise just pour it in and rinse can. So, boiled &quot;hop tea&quot;, dissolved malt extract and whatever sugars are required are all in the fermentation vessel. Then add cold water to volume. Towards the end keep an eye on &quot;wort&quot; temperature. Below 15 degrees is not so good for pitching yeast and neither is above 30 degrees. 20 degrees is about right. When the mixture is good to go - pitch the yeast as normal. Even with a 90 min hop boil it should not be more than 2 hours from start to end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If roasted grains are used in the beer for colour and/or flavour then steep the grains in (for example) boiled water for between 20-60 mins and strain the grain into the fermentation vessel after the malt and hop tea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not boiling the malt is a safer and cheaper process to make fine beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T07:53:07.080" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T07:53:07.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18013" CreationDate="2016-07-16T06:17:12.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do this by switching the gas between the two kegs, but it's far easier to get a gas manifold or y-splitter and supply gas to both kegs simultaneously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T06:17:12.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18033" CreationDate="2016-07-16T07:40:14.153" Score="3" ViewCount="775" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a 5L plastic bottle be used as fermenter for the first days of fermentation? I'm looking then to transfer the juice to a 2L glass demijohn for the rest of fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13911" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T18:46:03.127" Title="[CIDER]: Can a 5L plastic bottle be used as fermenter?" Tags="|fermentation|cider|first-time-brewer|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17956" CreationDate="2016-07-16T07:46:57.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At an ambient of 16degC you might need to think about cooling too. Fermentation is exothermic so your insulated box could heat up well above ambient. Connecting a fan to the cooling circuit of the STC to draw air into the box would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T07:46:57.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18031" CreationDate="2016-07-16T15:52:23.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If its food grade plastic then sure it shouldn't be a problem.  I wouldn't recommend racking after a few days for no reason other than getting into a new container.  You don't want to separate the cider (or beer or wine) from the fermenting yeast too soon.  After a few days some of that yeast is likely to already be flocculating out, but its still active and helping with final stages of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T15:52:23.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18035" CreationDate="2016-07-16T22:36:31.130" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only 4kg of apples, which will give me 2L of cider. I'm using an 11g dry yeast sachet. Do I need to pour the whole 11g or just 5g?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use it all, will the final taste be influenced by the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13911" LastEditorUserId="7916" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T13:08:06.863" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T13:08:06.863" Title="For 2L of final cider do I need to put the whole yeast sachet?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18034" CreationDate="2016-07-17T16:56:21.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be ok just using less than an 1/8th of it, but wouldn't do harm adding the whole pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just follow the pitching instructions on the yeasts datasheet. Hydration etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T16:56:21.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18022" CreationDate="2016-07-17T17:43:35.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other possibility...did you do a partial boil and top off in the fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T17:43:35.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17990" CreationDate="2016-07-17T18:07:14.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a real simple remedy that is non toxic and a natural remedy, get 3 tablespoons of Epson salts and sprinkle on the ground around the affected hops. This will eliminate any bugs, spiders or grasshoppers from sticking around. I'm amazed at some of the lengths people go to for such a simple solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13913" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T18:07:14.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="129" CreationDate="2016-07-18T16:56:36.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just drank a bottle of Barley Wine that I bottled on July 2, 1993! It still had carbonation; no bad flavors; grains forward, hops subdued. I've lost all the records of what and how it was brewed, how long it sat in primary and secondary etc., but I wish I had some more hiding in the back of the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13914" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T16:56:36.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18042" CreationDate="2016-07-18T19:36:26.820" Score="1" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should 10mm of foam in the presed juice affter a day be an issue? This is before the yeast starter.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qbbuG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qbbuG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13911" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T10:41:39.767" Title="[CIDER]: Should 10mm of foam in the presed juice affter a day be an issue?" Tags="|yeast|cider|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18039" CreationDate="2016-07-18T22:24:02.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally cider is made without pitching additional yeast. There is plenty of wild yeast on the apple skin. In fact apple skin is such a reliable source of wild yeast that it's often used for making a sour-dough starter. Unless you've taken steps to kill the wild yeast that's what the foam is and that is what will ferment your cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T22:24:02.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17902" CreationDate="2016-07-19T10:33:20.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO and experience, the best bottles to use for &quot;shorter term&quot; conditioning of ginger beer (and related &quot;fast ferments&quot;) are plastic PET bottles. The screw tops are sufficiently strong and the actual PET bottles are incredibly strong. If the worst happens and the bottle explodes - they are not as dangerous as glass bottles! The only problem with a PET bottle is that the CO2 can slowly diffuse through the plastic over a period of (say) 1 year. If you plan to drink any brews within 3 months of making them, PET bottles are very good and I would recommend their use above using glass of any description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that I make red fizzy wine from grape juice. After primary fermentation I mix 24 litres of the base wine with 450g of dextrose. This produces a great deal of secondary carbonation in the red fizz and I use robust 500ml flip top bottles used for &quot;Hovels&quot; beer. They look more like mini-Champagne bottles and have a slightly domed base and thick glass bodies. I have tried using modern style Grolsch beer bottles and they have taken the full pressure similar to Hovels bottles. So flip top closures can and do hold a good deal of gas pressure over many month. However it is generally supposed that flat bottomed beer bottles with thinner glass walls are not suitable for high pressure applications - so proceed with caution when using standard beer bottles to make highly carbonated brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T10:33:20.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18039" CreationDate="2016-07-19T10:41:39.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a yeast or could be lactobacilius - or both! Either way its going now and the only way to stop it is to pasteurise it. I would tend to let it go. As has been said, cider was traditionally made by crushing the juice and storing it in a vat to ferment naturally over some time. No yeast was ever bought or added. In the majority of cases the cider produced was excellent. On the other hand I have witnessed and sampled a few fermentations where the resulting &quot;dry scrumpy&quot; was &quot;peculiar to the region and enjoyed by those who had a taste for it&quot;. But no one else...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this brew has finished primary fermentation rack off and transfer to conditioning cask or bottle as preferred. It may turn out very well! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T10:41:39.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18031" CreationDate="2016-07-19T15:20:09.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Large plastic containers (especially food grade containers) usually make excellent fermentation vessels if a bubble trap is fitted or any closure/lid/cap is not fastened tight but can allow CO2 out as fermentation proceeds.  Failure to allow CO2 to escape will cause bottle inflation and possibly bursting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many home brews are made in 25 litre plastic buckets - a 5 litre version is just as good! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T15:20:09.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17892" CreationDate="2016-07-19T15:28:42.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used lactobacilius (for ginger beer, yoghurt and KimChi) and acetobacter (for wine vinegar) and surprisingly I have never (touch wood) had a cross infection.&#xA;In between brews I use VWP steriliser and can submerge a 25 lite brew bucket in a 50 litre sterilising bin. So all surfaces are cleaned and sterilised. I use  my plastic tubes for siphoning ginger beer and then for malt beer and only sterilise/pasteurise in boiling water for less than a minute. The hot water also helps keep the tubes supple and easy to route. Of course one can soak the tubes in steriliser over night but it seems it adds nothing much to the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T15:28:42.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18045" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18063" CreationDate="2016-07-19T17:14:47.207" Score="0" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a preferred beer style for making malt vinegars?  Has anybody experimented with using different styles of beer to make vinegar and what types of results were experienced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T23:47:09.967" Title="How do different styles of beer affect malt vinegar" Tags="|vinegar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18047" CreationDate="2016-07-19T21:09:32.293" Score="2" ViewCount="2363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about one week into growing my first SCOBY that I can use to make my own kombucha. I opted to grow my own instead of purchase one just because it looked simple enough. I took a whiff of the brew today, and it smells strongly of vinegar. The process was pretty simple: make sweetened black tea, let it cool, added some store bought plain kombucha, put it all in a jar and covered it with a cloth. Is it normal for it to smell like vinegar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T22:32:31.447" Title="Should my first batch of kombucha smell like vinegar?" Tags="|kombucha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18046" CreationDate="2016-07-19T21:59:54.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote Sandor Katz from &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=-zmLa205d0QC&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;dq=the%20art%20of%20fermentation&amp;amp;pg=PA175#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=kombucha&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Art of Fermentation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Many people have observed that the kombucha SCOBY is identical, or virtually so, to the mother-of-vinegar that often forms on the surface of fermenting vinegar. Some have even described kombucha as immature vinegar.'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's perfectly fine it smells that way (in fact it's an indication everything is going well). The trick with kombucha is (typically) to refrigerate it and drink it while there's still some sugar left and before it becomes unbearably sour (meaning before it is fully fermented/matured). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T21:59:54.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T09:11:23.660" Score="0" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a length of hose for connecting my regulator to my quick disconnects. The hose fits snug on the regulator barb but is very loose on the quick disconnect barb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.compressedaircentre.com/product/5168mm-clear-braided-pvc-hose-030113008/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the hose&lt;/a&gt; - 5/16&quot; / 8mm ID.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/quick-disconnect-in-complete-new-grey-p-66.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;disconnect&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to replace the current quick disconnect barb with a larger 5/16&quot; one but I can't seem to find any Irish / UK / EU suppliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these what I'm looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.ie/itm/5-16-Swivel-Nut-Set-for-MFL-1-4-Ball-Lock-Kegging-Homebrew-World-Free-Shipping-/261552484346&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;5/16&quot; Swivel Nut Set for MFL 1/4&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Female-Flare-FFL-Stainless-Swivel-Nut-1-4-to-5-16-Barb-Adapter-Kegging-Homebrew-/130722409864?hash=item1e6fa9ad88:g:CbIAAOSwu4BVjBRI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Female Flare FFL Stainless Swivel Nut 1/4 to 5/16 Barb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know anything about the thread sizes on the disconnect. Any advice would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastEditorUserId="6522" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T16:34:39.673" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T06:04:47.900" Title="Replace current quick disconnect barb with 5/16&quot; barb" Tags="|equipment|kegging|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18054" CreationDate="2016-07-20T22:22:04.930" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I rack in day 4 if there are 20mm of sediments and fermentation is over? Just to get the cider in a second clean fermentation vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13911" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T18:31:55.060" Title="[CIDER]: Can I rack in day 4 if there are 20mm of sediments and fermentation is over?" Tags="|fermentation|cider|carboy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17848" CreationDate="2016-07-21T15:59:41.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contrary to all the theoretical advice, I have some practical, experience based advice....you'll be OK.  I've done it many, many times with fine results.  1.080 is about the limit if where I'd feel safe (although I have gone a few points higher).  So, in the future you'd probably be safer to pitch more, for now you should be OK.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T15:59:41.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18061" CreationDate="2016-07-21T17:09:09.660" Score="1" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed brewers best holiday ale on July 17th and I added 2 pounds of honey. I got 1.080 OG.&#xA;After 5 days no fermentation. &#xA;I added yeast restarter but up to now no fermentation  .. I just checked the OG it's almost the same 1.070 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13886" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T00:23:52.540" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T08:51:39.490" Title="I added 2 pounds of honey" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18052" CreationDate="2016-07-21T19:27:59.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was me, I'd pitch yeast again.  Quite often, the yeast in those kits can get old (they sit on the self so the yeast and hops aren't refrigerated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, how can you mitigate this in the future? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you get a kit home, put the yeast and hops in the refrigerator (you can put hops in the freezer without harm). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can write down the ingredients in your brewing journal and buy them individually at your local brew shop so you know the yeast and hops have been treated well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While this won't solve your immediate problem, if you moved up to brewing all grain recipes, you'd force yourself to buy your yeast from the cooler (and save money on ingredients).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastEditorUserId="7934" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T16:37:12.367" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T16:37:12.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18049" CreationDate="2016-07-22T18:31:55.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer? Yes. In fact, I would move your cider to secondary.  This is also a good time to dry hop it if that's a thing you want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T18:31:55.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18048" CreationDate="2016-07-23T03:29:50.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. They both look like they will work. I've never seen an MFL quick disconnect that isn't 1/4&quot;. I would opt for the one that states that the nut is chrome plated brass. Some FFL are 100% stainless steel, but they then need a washer to seal and that can be problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't buy the FFL locally an option is to use 1/4&quot; hose and soak the end in boiling water before you push it onto the regulator barb. It's surprising you much hot vinyl hose will stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastEditorUserId="13805" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T06:04:47.900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T06:04:47.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7852" CreationDate="2016-07-24T02:14:26.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ginger Bugs can provide very sharp amounts of ginger flavor depending on the quality and quantity of ginger used in the ginger bug.  It is a fun, easy, inexpensive and surprisingly versatile ferment that I encourage noobs to master first.  Then also do the GingerBeerPlant (GBP) grains when you can find a source of GBP.  GBP grains are very similar to water kefir (WK) grains and if you can't find GBP, then get WK and put the ginger in at the 2nd ferment instead of the first as you do with GBP.  Both GBP and WK are small round SCOBY (symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast) that either sink to the bottom or float around in the liquid.  The GBP often forms a thin mass on the surface of the water too.  There are plenty of directions online, just google the scoby of your choice and then experiment with making your own delicious flavored drinks all summer long.  However, a huge warning should be attached to every scoby using sugar or honey to take special care of your teeth and bones because these organisms create ACID which can cause tooth decay at an alarming rate in some individuals, even (especially) children. I strongly suggest having a tooth enamel protection strategy that includes CESP  (Chicken Egg Shell Powder) and there are plenty of tooth remineralization scholarly articles online.  commercial toothpaste sucks.    &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&amp;amp;rls=en&amp;amp;q=tooth+remineralization&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;oe=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&amp;amp;rls=en&amp;amp;q=tooth+remineralization&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;oe=UTF-8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13931" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T02:14:26.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18057" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18060" CreationDate="2016-07-24T13:08:07.830" Score="1" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;During my beer brewing I needed to pitch more yeast due to stuck fermentation. Now my beer is ready for bottling.  I would like to use Beer Brite Fining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Question is can I use fining 2 times to make sure I'll have clear Beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example I'll pitch 1 today &amp;amp; the 2nd fining patch tomorrow!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13886" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T10:36:20.853" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T10:36:20.853" Title="Can I make Double Fining ( Beer)" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18057" CreationDate="2016-07-24T14:31:50.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's an insinglass product (fish gelitan). You can add it multiple times with no adverse effects. Usually a proper dose just once combined with cold crash will make a brilliantly clear beer. Each pack is a dose for 5 gallons of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All finings need time to work most work by collecting particles and dropping them via gravity. Cold crash helps this along, while I've seen them clear in just 24 hours I usually give them a couple days, even then there is still sludge in the last pint of a keg. So longer you can let it crash the better (2-3 days) and rack carefully, don't get greedy I've never regretted leaving 1/2 inch of beer above the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T14:42:31.747" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T14:42:31.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4910" CreationDate="2016-07-24T21:06:40.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;6 hour carbonation (.5micron, 20PSI, relieved pressure every 30min):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a heat gun (hair dryer will work) blowing down one end (of Ice maker line from home depot) to fit snugly onto the inlet flange inside my corny keg...stone has a barbed end which fits snugly on the other end of the line and hangs all the way to the bottom of the keg (so bubbles go up into the liquid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raise pressure up to 15-20 PSI and periodically released the pressure from the Relief valve every 30 minutes or so.  Carbonates in less than 6 hours if the beer is cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time the pressure is relieved, the incoming pressure creates millions of tiny bubbles.  After about 10 times, I drop the pressure down a little. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13934" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T21:06:40.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18057" CreationDate="2016-07-25T08:26:00.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using isinglass finings a number of times is perfectly possible but probably unnecessary. Once should be enough if time to settle is allowed. Unfortunately its use renders the beer unfit for vegetarian and vegans. That may be no great hardship (more beer for me....) but it is worth bearing in mind when offering a drink to the wider community. Also it is not necessary to use isinglass especially if one brews with &quot;hard&quot; water containing calcium ions. They do a surprising good job of coagulating and precipitating colloids and suspensions.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one leaves the beer long enough to condition then IMHO no fining is needed. yeast will always drop - and even the worst case of yeast contamination will drop clear over a month. Some brewers and drinkers think a month is a long time.... but the difference in flavour and clarity from extended conditioning is noticeable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T11:27:45.847" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T11:27:45.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18052" CreationDate="2016-07-25T08:51:39.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO &lt;em&gt;ALL&lt;/em&gt; yeast should be made up into a starter culture prior to pitching. This is simply done using a clean bottle with a lid/cap. Sterilise the bottle with boiling water by filling it and leaving for a few minutes. Then empty the bottle (careful!) add a tablespoon or so of sugar or preferably dextrose and dissolve in a small amount of boiling water. This will sterilise the sugar. Then add cold water until the solution is &quot;baby bath&quot; hot. About 17-20 degreees. Pitch the yeast from the packet directly to the starter solution put on cap and shake vigorously to distribute and aerate the yeast. leave for 10 minutes and then shake vigorously again. Loosen but don't remove the cap to allow CO2 to escape. If the solution does not have a fine foamy head after 1 hour at 20 degrees then the yeast quality is suspect. Wait another hour or two to check again. If no real signs of fermentation in the starter bottle then discard and get fresh yeast. If all is foaming nicely - for example an inch or 2cm of fine foam on the top - then the yeast can be pitched into the wort and one can expect fermentation to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that I once had a stuck fermentation because I had mis-weighed the malt/suagrs to add to a brew. The sugar content of the wort was so high (OG over 1.090) that the yeast was inhibited. It worked, but very slowly. By adding sugar in lesser amounts and over time, the next brew was improved and fermented as expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T08:51:39.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18046" CreationDate="2016-07-25T08:59:52.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;answer edited. Different SCOBYs contain different biological agents and the makeup can vary. Even the &quot;same&quot; SCOBY varies from environment to environment. However I accept that the most common and traditionally grown kombuchas produce more acetic than lactic acid. So smelling of vinegar can be a normal odour for Kombucha.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T22:32:31.447" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T22:32:31.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18045" CreationDate="2016-07-25T11:11:39.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge there is no preferred beer style that is preferred for making malt vinegar - it is just that it can be brewed from malt. No hops are added to malt solutions used for fermenting, for example so it would be difficult to call the base liquor a &quot;beer&quot;. Traditionally beer &lt;em&gt;per se&lt;/em&gt; is not usually used for making vinegar. &quot;Vin gar&quot; bad wine is usually the traditional source of making vinegar (eg balsamico) although I accept ciders and fruit brews are also frequently used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The modern practice is to infect a sterile sugar solution with yeast and then acetobacter and let it ferment to make acetic acid. That is distilled out to make more concentrated acetic acid which is diluted and flavoured in various ways. Modern &quot;Malt&quot; vinegar is usually flavoured and coloured with caramel. It can certainly be made or flavoured with malt extract (as the name suggests) but it isn't the usual method. Except perhaps its accidental use by home-brewers desperate to find a use for another spoilt brew! :0) Malt has largely been replaced with corn/maize sugar due to lower cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T22:07:03.713" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T22:07:03.713" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18065" CreationDate="2016-07-25T22:57:47.283" Score="1" ViewCount="3904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 1 litre swing-top bottles to make kombucha. Yes, I know it's not really homebrew in some people's eyes, but I figured someone here could help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what ingredients I use, sometimes I have a bottle with a lot more than the usual amount of pressure. (Usually, I can just pop it right open.) With these higher-pressure ones, I have to manually hold the top open ever so slightly to bleed off the pressure, or open it suddenly and loose about 30% of the tasty beverage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to prevent this, and bleed off the pressure without me having to hold the bottle for 10 minutes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I should have elaborated further. The times when there's way too much pressure is when I bottle it with a fruit additive, so there's lots more sugar in the bottled product than a normal one, sans fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13937" LastEditorUserId="13937" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T15:36:40.477" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T14:44:23.397" Title="Bleed pressure from swing-top bottle?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle|kombucha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18064" CreationDate="2016-07-26T00:09:59.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're describing is a &amp;quot;gusher infection&amp;quot;, wild yeast that can consume normally unfermentable sugars like dextrins. Usually leaves a beverage with little body and other issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In beer after the cap pops a gusher will just usually slowly volcano, taking most the beer with it as foam. Some can over carb so much to vacate the bottle almost instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As far as your kambucha getting it very cold 33°F and slowly releasing the CO2 is the only solution.&lt;/strong&gt; Unless you have access to hyperbaric chamber. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better sanitation and a fresh scoby should rid you of the wild yeast in future batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T00:21:04.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18066" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18068" CreationDate="2016-07-26T15:20:40.847" Score="2" ViewCount="7499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering how much priming solution should one use for a one liter bottle. I'm using dextrose. I don't want my bottles to pop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T00:08:45.360" Title="How much priming sugar should one use?" Tags="|priming|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18069" CreationDate="2016-07-26T15:24:22.927" Score="2" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm seeing this thing happen soon after I add my yeast and was wondering what it was called and the science behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ghl22.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ghl22.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T04:24:30.500" Title="What is this part of the fermentation called?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18066" CreationDate="2016-07-26T17:36:20.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer: 5-10 grams/liter. Lower end will give around 2 volumes, upper end around 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not so simple answer: It is temperature dependent. If your beer has fermented and kept cold, or cold crashed with a lot of co2 in the heads pace then it will contain more dissolved co2 from fermentation and will need less sugar. If it's been warmer at some point it might need more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the simple answer sufficient for anything at ale temperatures (20c +/- 5ish). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13548" LastEditorUserId="13548" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T17:41:27.740" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T17:41:27.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18067" CreationDate="2016-07-26T17:50:44.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;High Krausen&quot;/&quot;Exponential Growth Phase&quot;&#xA;As the yeast feeds it produces co2 and the bubbles make a foam of yeast and other materials in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T17:56:03.273" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T17:56:03.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18066" CreationDate="2016-07-26T18:57:48.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are calculators that can help with this.  There are two variables: Temp and desired carbonation level. Carb level is usually a function of beer style. Here is one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on-line calculator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started brewing, my kits usually came with 5 oz. of sugar which I used religiously and had plenty of gushers.  Over time I found that approx. 3.9 oz. per 5 gallon batch (115 gram/19 l) works for almost everything. YMMV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="3453" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T21:05:44.473" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T21:05:44.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-26T21:49:03.413" Score="6" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have head retention problems in an extract bock, and I've been working my way through the potential issues. It's in a keezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line is 3/16, length is 8ft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure is 14psi (I live at 5,000ft)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour time is 8-9 seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan circulates air&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keezer is 38F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lines are coiled on top of keg, no CO2 breakout in the lines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm confident in the carbonation levels, it has been slow-carbing for months&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the beer hits the glass, the CO2 rapidly breaks out, forming glassy bubbles instead of white foam, and it sounds like a soda. A strong head of these glassy bubbles appears, but quickly dissipates leaving the beer completely flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've experimented with chilling the glasses, which helps but does not solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've worked on &quot;beer clean glassware&quot;, scrubbing with a brush &amp;amp; baking soda/salt. They might not be &quot;beer clean&quot;, but commercial beer has good head &amp;amp; lacing in the same glasses vs my bock.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I'm thinking I must have some detergent traces in the beer- I used to clean my kettle and a few other elements for the boil with soap. I stopped a while ago, but there could still be residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of other possible causes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is detergent in the beer, is there anything I can do to save it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I think I can rule out a CO2 leak in the gas side of the system, because my 5lb CO2 tank has been holding pressure for 3 months, and because the freezer is not full of CO2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minor update: I got to thinking. I have a one-way check valve on the gas line. I began to wonder if it had a forward pressure (like a diode's forward voltage), i.e. the valve closes when the pressure across the valve is too low, resulting in a lower pressure on the other side of the valve. I swapped to an ordinary quick disconnect with no check valve, and some gas began flowing into the keg! So while the regulator was at 14psi, the keg was at something lower. Likely not much lower, but it was an interesting discovery. Does anyone know if there is a &quot;standard forward pressure&quot; for check valves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13940" LastEditorDisplayName="user13940" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T18:24:32.773" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T08:00:52.610" Title="Saving head retention" Tags="|head|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18066" CreationDate="2016-07-26T22:38:08.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;150g in 24 litres produces a good carbonation of beer in bottles. So that would be 6g per litre. There is a some margin for error. Adding 5g or 7g to beer in a 1 litre bottle probably will not make the beer flat or the bottle explode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T22:38:08.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18067" CreationDate="2016-07-27T04:24:30.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How soon is &quot;soon&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you've sprinkled dry yeast across the top of your (chilled) brew kettle and maybe waited 10-20 minutes? If so, this is the yeast &quot;blooming&quot; in response to being reactivated from their dried state. At what temperature is the wort? Can you provide any more detail about your process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T04:24:30.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4938" CreationDate="2016-07-27T09:01:45.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &quot;aerated&quot; the priming solution by cooling the sugar solution and shaking the bottle that the priming solution is made up in. Adding such a solution to the beer before bottle or keg conditioning caused no real problems that I could notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I now as (a matter of course) pour the beer from the 25 lt. settling vessel into another similar vessel that contains the made up dextrose priming solution. This &quot;wholesale&quot; pouring produces a lot of foam (de-gassing) and presumably oxygenation of the young beer. After a short while to allow the foam to settle, I put the beer into bottles and leave them for a month. Never had a failure yet (touch wood)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other brewers have commented on the &quot;novelty&quot; of this mixing method and most say they would never do it themselves. But it works for me and has produced many hundreds of litres of excellent beer in many styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point being that &quot;oxidation&quot; is not a guaranteed and universal phenomenon - however one wishes to describe it. Some say their beer tastes like cardboard due to &quot;oxidation&quot;. IMHO I have never suffered from that problem, yet I have given my beers ample opportunity to &quot;oxidise&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T09:01:45.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2016-07-27T09:17:53.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is all bottled then it may well be worth leaving the bottles for some months and see how the secondary fermentation progresses. There may have been an incomplete primary fermentation that may add to the carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if this is the only brew in town and every bottle opened is flat then it might be worth reopening and adding sugar. That is probably  best done in solution and measured into the bottles with a syringe. Make up the weighed sugar with a known volume of boiled water (do the math!). Have the bottle caper and a supply of caps handy! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO an easier method to prime beer for bottles is to mix it all in one go into the beer. Rather than spooning an approximate volume into each bottle, dissolve all the sugar in a minimal amount boiling water and then dilute with &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; cold water and add to the beer to be bottled. If the beer is over the trub then it is best to pour (or sip[hon if cautious) the beer off the trub and onto the priming solution. A quick mix will mean the beer has been uniformly dosed with dextrose and there is no variation from bottle to bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a guide I use 150g of dextrose in 24 lt (approx 5.5 gal.) of beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T09:17:53.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17786" CreationDate="2016-07-27T09:28:46.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never had problems adding dextrose or sucrose directly in powder form to bottles. It can be messy but I have not found it to cause &quot;bad bottled beer&quot;. Obviously I have never used any &quot;suspect&quot;/old/discoloured sugar so I don't know if they cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would tend to recommend dissolving the priming sugar in boiled water, adding it to a suitable size bucket/barrel and pouring (siphonng if faint hearted) the beer to mix it uniformly - then bottling. As the original post shows - this produces good carbonated beer without all the hassle of spooning (and spilling). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T09:28:46.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3888" CreationDate="2016-07-27T09:39:29.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One good example of a substantial bottle containing a normal pressure beer is &quot;Hovels&quot;. The 500ml bottle is heavy like a champagne bottle and it can indeed be used to brew &quot;méthode champenoise&quot;. I have made some sparkling wines in them that have emptied on the ceiling (oops) once I flipped the top. So I have no real idea why Hovels use them. I generally have to pour their beer out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High pressure brews can be safely stored in PET bottles. But don't store them for too long (eg past 6 months) as PET bottles allow slow diffusion of CO2 and may well be flat after (say) 18 months. But up to 6 months they are fine and donl;t seem to affect teh flavour of the beer (or any other brew).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coopers make a double skinned bottle that curtails or stops such diffusion and can hold beer for some years. If it lasts that long....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T09:39:29.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6234" CreationDate="2016-07-27T09:45:35.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer was &quot;mild&quot; when young and &quot;stale&quot; when old. Stale bread is &quot;bad&quot; but stale beer used to be regarded as good. It still is but we don't call it stale (&quot;stood ale&quot;?) any more - we call it bottle conditioned and it fetches a premium. One local brewery released a batch of bottles over 2 years old that it found at the back of the warehouse. It was very short lived and immensely popular!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer changes considerably over time in a bottle. The change is usually for the better. One month is OK for the impatient,  but try a beer at 6 months to see how bottle conditioning can change its quality. Personally I would never (willingly) drink a beer I made that is under 4 months old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T09:45:35.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18071" CreationDate="2016-07-27T13:10:42.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple possible causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keg line&lt;/strong&gt; could be losing much of the carbonation. To calculate we need other info like, line diameter, tap style etc. Use a &quot;keg line balancing&quot; calculator like the &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.calczilla.com/brewing/keg-line-balancing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Keg Line Balancing Calculator.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Low head forming proteins&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;From extract the proteins for body are preset, usually around what a mash of 154° would give. It should still give a decent head, but steeping carapils or carafoam grains can help increase body and head retention in future extract batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;beer clean glass&lt;/strong&gt; you covered it pretty well, but the most important aspect is a &quot;wet&quot; glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;excessive hot break&lt;/strong&gt; if the boil was too vigorous the boil could have broke  up all the head forming proteins. You want just a low rolling boil. Also the practice of removing hot break foam can reduce some head retention. I use fry scoop to push hot break back in rather than scoop it out. Foamcontrol drops in the boil help keep the proteins in the wort and prevent boil overs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;krausen loss&lt;/strong&gt; If your fermentor didn't have enough head space and you lost a lot of foam out the airlock or blow off tube, this will also reduce head forming materials in the final beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;high ABV&lt;/strong&gt; beers will reduce head retention significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-09-12T07:45:22.100" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T07:45:22.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18071" CreationDate="2016-07-28T07:43:53.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that it won't hold carbonation the problem is not lack of foam positive agents nor the presence of foam negative agents. At least that is not the only problem. Neither is it a line balancing problem. I serve via 1 metre of 1/4 inch hose. It's not ideal, but I’ve pushed a Belgian Blonde through it at 20 psi. It arrives at the glass foamy but with lots of carbonation.&#xA;There are few reasons why a beer will not hold carbonation. The most likely of which is that there is something in it which acts as a very effective nucleating surface. I've had this happen when I've frozen and defrosted a keg. That can sometimes cause limit dextrins and/or oxalates to precipitate out. These sharp crystals act as ideal nucleating points for co2 bubbles to form. The other thing that can form a nucleating surface is if your keg is at a few degrees below freezing. The pressure drop along the serving line allows small crystals of ice to form which is a very effective focus for nucleation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T07:43:53.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18066" CreationDate="2016-07-28T18:06:48.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my 1 Liter PET bottles, if I'm bottle priming, then I use 2 teaspoons of table sugar or two of the C&amp;amp;H sugar cubes (the larger ones that equal a teaspoon). It's been working fine for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13946" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T18:06:48.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1968" CreationDate="2016-07-29T12:06:49.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I asked the same question to myself about 10 years ago and did a bunch of research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to shaving cream, or whipped cream from the pressurized can, the answer is related to Nitrogen. Nitro beer: It is a classification born from Guinness projects to simulate a freshly squeezed &quot;cask conditioned&quot; ale to all the people without access to cask ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beers you describe are known as Nitro beers, and you see it more and more these days, like Samuel Adams Nitro White Ale, etc. Do not confuse Nitro beer with just plain old normal good head retention. Also don't get confused by the beers that are served &quot;Nitro&quot; &lt;em&gt;AND&lt;/em&gt; also served normal (Smithwicks, for example). You can usually tell when its nitro or not, because of the tap. Nitro taps usually have long (often black) attachments on the tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nitro tap tip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKYqR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKYqR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non nitro:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UAiy1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UAiy1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nitro beer is pressurized with a special Nitrogen gas mix known as &quot;G-Mix&quot; or &quot;Beer Gas&quot; which is 25% CO2 and 75% Nitrogen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planet Earth's atmosphere composition dictates that CO2 will bubble-out of liquid easily, but Nitrogen does not. (already lots and lots of nitrogen in the atmosphere, who needs more?). Nitrogen creates stable bubbles, and CO2 does not (in comparison). Nitrogen has to be coaxed to come out of the liquid by 'bumping' some nitrogen molecules against each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to get that nitrogen &quot;out of solution&quot;, Special taps with &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/malt/item/1729-nitrogen-draft-tap-projects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;sparklers&quot;&lt;/a&gt; in them are used to help release the Nitrogen when serving, creating that creamy Nitrogen shaving-cream style head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or when its served from a can, a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Widget_(beer)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;widget&lt;/a&gt;&quot; is used to create pressure difference when you crack the can, leading to the head being created. (Lasers are used to make tiny hole(s) the widget!). I used to think that these widgets had something special inside them, but they just cause a &lt;a href=&quot;http://coed.com/2011/01/23/the-ball-inside-a-guinness-can-explained/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sudden pressure variance&lt;/a&gt; when opening the can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you might use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNU4E1ODniE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Surger&lt;/a&gt; with canned nitro beer, which uses ultrasonic vibrations on the liquid, coaxing Nitrogen out, leading to that shaving cream head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once upon a time, the widgets were not plastic containers inside the can, they were &lt;a href=&quot;http://publin.ie/2015/giving-guinness-a-head-with-a-syringe-how-it-used-to-be-done/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;syringes&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More notes: Some beer manufacturers that carbonate only using CO2, like Pilsner Urquell, also strongly suggest the use of Beer Gas when serving beer in cold places. They actually go so far as to change the gas mix recommendation depending on how cold the storage temperature is (50/50). The hotter the storage of the area, the more likely they will recommend pure CO2 for a tastier, colder beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When CO2 bubbles-out of a liquid it is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exothermic_process&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Exothermic&lt;/a&gt; (it makes the liquid colder, and maybe so much that it feels like it burns your mouth and stomach). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in colder places, Beer Gas is advised to be used to serve otherwise normal beer. Cheap bars are totally unaware of this advice while certain bars are likely required to adhere to this advice. (But I think there is a corporate witch hunt going on for violators). So you may see different style head in a &quot;fancy place&quot; in a cold city. Prague in the winter time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gWCsW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gWCsW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Text from Pilsner Urquell manuals&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, to get &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;seriously&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; off topic, there is a new Fad in Coffee Houses known as Nitro Coffee (and also Nitro Tea, for that matter). Cold-brewed coffee (or tea) that is charged with &quot;Beer Gas&quot; and served like a Nitro Beer. I won't even post a pic, because it looks exactly like guinness. The foamy head has a very nice taste, like &lt;em&gt;crema&lt;/em&gt; on &lt;em&gt;espresso&lt;/em&gt; (but more stable!). Try one sometime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13754" LastEditorUserId="13754" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T11:25:27.663" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T11:25:27.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-29T20:12:43.143" Score="1" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought A 23 lt Muntons wheat beer kit. I plan to do primary fermentation in 19lt plastic fermenter with A 15lt volume. And after do A secondary fermentation with dry hops in A 15lt glass carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Wonder if this beer can be too bitter to drink? Because designer volume for kit is originally 23 lt. But I only have these fermentors with lower volume&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12672" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T14:24:58.080" Title="Scale down An extract beer kit" Tags="|kits|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18085" CreationDate="2016-07-29T20:50:54.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well you could reduce all ingredients by 34% to scale the batch, but once you open extract it needs to be used asap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the boil capacity, I would brew the whole batch, ferment what you can, then put the rest in sanitary jugs and refridgerate to be reboiled in the near future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the remaining wort for yeast starters or a mini batch. If the recipie has late hop additions, keep in mind they with get more bitter conversion in the reboil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: &lt;strong&gt;A &quot;no boil&quot; kit shouldn't alter the IBU in the finished beer by scaling down the volumes, if done right.&lt;/strong&gt; Most instructions have a sanitation &quot;heating&quot; step for the water and the extract 160-180°F. Since that heat will convert alpha acids to bitter in the beer, the hops used in the extract production have already been fully converted and can't get more bitter with more heat. &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Follow the instructions&lt;/strong&gt;. Most say to add all the extract to about 2 quarts of 160-180°F water then return to heat for 15minutes at 160-180°F. This is important for an even blend is case of any separation in the extract. &lt;strong&gt;This well blended mix of water and extract is what you can then use a portion of to scale down the batch size.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Don't use just some of the can, it all needs to go in.&lt;/em&gt; Then store and save the wort concentrate as mentioned previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T14:24:58.080" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T14:24:58.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18090" CreationDate="2016-07-30T03:20:52.077" Score="1" ViewCount="1344" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brand. Spanking. New. To brewing. Just bought an Amber Ale extract kit (don't judge!) and equipment set from Brewer's Best. I read the &quot;&lt;em&gt;Brew Day&lt;/em&gt;&quot; instructions and they included a grain bag that they want me to use for steeping the grain in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm wondering is: &lt;em&gt;can I clean and reuse this bag, or is it contaminated or otherwise made unusable once I use it the first time?&lt;/em&gt; And if it can be cleaned, what's a sanitary/safe way to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update: after running through wash&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftOYU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftOYU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13954" LastEditorUserId="13954" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T00:16:38.907" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T00:16:38.907" Title="Can I clean and reuse a grain bag?" Tags="|cleaning|grain|extract-brewing|steeping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18088" CreationDate="2016-07-30T14:36:39.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Absolutely!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rinse after use then throw them in with my laundry whites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Couple tips.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These don't have to be sterile or even sanitized. A good rinse is really the only functional need they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If washing with laundry. Use fragrance free detergent with an extra rinse cycle. I just use oxyclean. Makes them soft and bright again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air / line dry them. Don't put them in the dryer. Dryers can have residual softener coating the dryer especially if softener sheets are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T14:36:39.957" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18092" CreationDate="2016-07-30T18:33:04.460" Score="1" ViewCount="685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to brewing (as in, tomorrow is my first brew day, ever) and I'm using a Brewer's Best Amber Ale extract kit. The directions are very thorough and precise (at least for a newbie's standards) but one thing that has me a little concerned is the boil temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After steeping between 150&amp;deg;F and 165&amp;deg;F, they want me to increase the heat to bring the wort to a nice rolling boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave this a dry run last night with nothing more than a pot of water (I wanted to test the controls on my stove so I could map stove settings to temperature ranges...yes I'm a nerd). Water boils at 212&amp;deg;F, and I was able to keep the water at a rolling boil for 55 minutes at 215&amp;deg;F. But I then read that if (during the steeping) you let the water/wort get above 170&amp;deg;F, the grain can leach tannins into the wort and ruin the taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried about the same thing happening during the boil. So I ask: &lt;em&gt;is there a temperature that is &quot;too hot&quot; to boil at? Is there a preferred range to boil in? Why/why not?!?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13954" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T19:38:46.263" Title="Is there a temperature my boil should not exceed?" Tags="|temperature|boil|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18091" CreationDate="2016-07-30T19:38:46.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, there's no need to worry about leaching tannins in the boil. Tannins are mostly found in the husk fraction of the malt. This means you have to be careful with the temperature only when the grain is in the water. So you should be safe in that regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the question you're asking is what temperature to boil at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'is there a temperature that is &quot;too hot&quot; to boil at? Is there a preferred range to boil in? Why/why not?!?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the issue: strictly speaking the only way to increase the temperature of your boil is to increase the pressure (by dropping in elevation, boiling in a pressurized vessel, or by increasing the hydrostatic pressure with a very tall vessel). Not really all that easy to do and unless you make drastic changes, &lt;strong&gt;you'll pretty much be boiling at the temperature dictated by your current elevation and equipment&lt;/strong&gt;. Simply adding more heat doesn't increase the temperature (the heat that's being added &lt;em&gt;while&lt;/em&gt; boiling is what's known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Latent_heat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;latent heat&lt;/a&gt;, and until all the water becomes steam, neither phase will exceed the boiling point at any given pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about the depth of your kettle? Well, it takes &lt;em&gt;roughly&lt;/em&gt; two feet of water to make the bottom of the kettle experience a pressure increase of 1 PSI. This more-pressurized liquid would indeed experience higher temperatures during boil, roughly 215°F at 1 PSI &lt;em&gt;over&lt;/em&gt; atmospheric pressure. I'm guessing most homebrew kettles are in or around this range of depth, and probably not many are more than a meter deep (which would put you at roughly 216°F at the bottom of the kettle). However, keep in mind that it's more accurate to measure the pressure at &lt;em&gt;half&lt;/em&gt; the depth of the vessel, since that's the point at which half of the liquid will experience higher pressure (below) and half will experience lower pressure (above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concentration of the wort can be largely ignored; I did some math using &lt;a href=&quot;http://lecturedemos.chem.umass.edu/solutions13_2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; equation and found that at 20°P/SG ~1.080 the boiling temperature is elevated by less than 0.4°C/0.7°F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if you can achieve a higher-temperature boil (by pressurizing it) you would see an increased rate of hop alpha acid isomerization (i.e. more bitterness) and higher rates of color formation (meaning your wort will get darker-&lt;em&gt;er&lt;/em&gt;). Not much else is directly affected by the temperature though I know of many (not particularly relevant here) issues that go along with boiling under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;In summary:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about the tannins during boiling, only when grain is in the water. And unless you're willing to change elevation or equipment there's no real way to control the temperature of your boil anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T19:38:46.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-30T20:52:30.160" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was starting a new batch and completely distracted over bills etc and realized once my malt was boiling that I COMPLETELY forgot to add and steep my grain. I added them for about 10 minutes after even tho it was boiling. Any idea how this will affect the outcome?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I just completely mess this up or what? Still pretty new to brewing btw.&#xA;It was intended to be a Porter but not sure now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13955" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T22:04:14.957" Title="Added my Malt syrup and brought to a boil BEFORE my grain" Tags="|boil|grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18093" CreationDate="2016-07-30T21:14:38.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Missed the steep&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worse case scenario you extracted tannins from the husks (astringent mouth feel / bitter, not appropriate in any beer style). This happens when two conditions are met. 1) 170°F or above and 2) ph 6.0 or above.&#xA;It's possible the wort was a ph below 6.0, so I may be ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as sugar it's already been converted in most steeping grains, crystals etc so you're good there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly a little carmelizing giving malliard notes like biscuit etc, typical of decoction (old process of boiling part of the grist for temp stepping a mash)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If it ever happens again, just stop the boil and reduce temp and hold at 160°F for 20 minutes while steeping&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T21:25:46.673" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T21:25:46.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18096" CreationDate="2016-07-31T00:41:19.370" Score="2" ViewCount="1009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brand new to brewing and am trying to make sense of the instructions from my extract kit (Brewer's Best Amber Ale). During the instructions for the boil, they say that it's important to make sure that the LME/DME extract doesn't accumulate and caramelize on the bottom of my brewpot (stainless steel stock pot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &lt;strong&gt;How do I accomplish this?&lt;/strong&gt; What tricks/techniques/etc. exist to make sure that the extract doesn't bind up, fall to the bottom of the brewpot, and essentially char/burn itself onto the brewpot?** Is it simply a matter of stirring continuously? If so, how often, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13954" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T13:10:51.050" Title="How to keep extract from caramelizing during the boil?" Tags="|boil|dme|lme|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18095" CreationDate="2016-07-31T03:27:28.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Is it simply a matter of stirring continuously?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much, especially with DME. Once it's dissolved fully, though, there should be no further need to stir. So really &lt;em&gt;'continuously-until-it's-dissolved'&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it helps to add DME slowly while stirring or whisking continuously, until it has all been added, and then continue to stir until visible signs (powder, floating solid bits) are gone, then scrape the bottom and all the corners to check there, then stir until you can't fish any more noticeable chunks out with a bit spoon. It's kind of like making a sauce with a roux. You just have to stir until it's dissolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LME is a bit easier, especially if you warm it up before opening to decrease its viscosity, making it much easier to pour &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; dissolve. Just stick the can in a bowl of warm-to-hot water for 10 or so minutes (shaking the can can give you a good sense of how much it will have liquefied), open and stir well while adding. Adding cool/cold LME increases your chance of chunks that will have to dissolve, and will require more stirring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also say make sure to always add extract to water, as opposed to the other way around. Water being at least warm is best, too (why not add it while you're heating your water up to either steeping temperature or to a boil; just wait until the water's warm, add extract, and stir until dissolved), though waiting until it's boiling, to me, just risks caked-up soggy DME and burnt knuckles, needlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T03:27:28.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18095" CreationDate="2016-07-31T11:43:43.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along with the stirring it helps to &lt;em&gt;turn off the heat before adding the extracts&lt;/em&gt;.  Preheating the water helps get extract to dissolve faster.  If you are using a gas stove top just turn it off.  If you are using an electric stove top move the pot off the element as it will still be hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the water moving and add the extract a little at a time.  A good whirlpool with a spoon works well for liquid extract.  Using a wire whisk works best with DME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T11:43:43.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18095" CreationDate="2016-07-31T13:10:51.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Couple tips for DME&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just want the water warm when adding it. 100°F is fine. What you don't want is boiling or any steam, or it will clump before even touching the water making mixing a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the &quot;warm&quot; wort is clump free from manual mixing then start your heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carmelizing will only happen if you get clumps of DME or LME sitting on the direct heat area of your pot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T13:10:51.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18102" CreationDate="2016-08-01T12:53:51.263" Score="6" ViewCount="3422" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my Brewer's Best Amber Ale extract kit, the formula for calculting ABV% is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(OG - FG) x 131.25&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IiG9BqtoKcc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this YouTube tutorial&lt;/a&gt;, the formula is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(OG - FG) x 105&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what these magic numbers (e.g. &quot;131.25&quot;, &quot;105&quot;) are, why they're different in the two formulations, and how to accurately calculate them for different brews in the future. &lt;strong&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13954" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T14:05:28.360" Title="Where does the ABV% &quot;magic number&quot; come from?" Tags="|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-01T13:14:18.770" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just made a falconer's flight/citra IPA. Well, for the first time, I have a free cooler to do a controlled temp fermentation. I had the cooler set to 50 degrees to help cool the wort before pitching. I pitched, and fell asleep before turning the cooler up to 63 degrees like a moron. I woke up to no action in the air lock and no movement in the beer. I got the temp up slowly (it took all day) and now it's in its controlled environment at 63 degrees. This morning i woke up there were a few tiny yeast rafts on top. My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Does the yeast rafts indicate the yeast waking up? Will fermentation kick off soon or am i out of luck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- The wort sat at around 50 degrees for 12 hours and has been slowly warming up for around 30 hours at the desired temp. Should i expect off flavors? Will it be alright since it was sealed and at a low temp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T15:15:09.690" Title="First time Controlled Temp Fermentation, May have put yeast to sleep" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18100" CreationDate="2016-08-01T13:18:08.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;131.25 is to calc ABV (Alcohol by Volume)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;105 is to calc calculate ABW (Alcohol by Weight)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;((OG - FG) * 105) * 1.25 = ABV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&#xA;(OG - FG) * 131.25 = ABV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These formulas are flawed in that they get progressively inaccurate with higher ABV, but are within 0.2% up to around 9%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to where they come from, they are simply the constants that work for most beers based on the absolute weight of pure water and ethanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: just watched that vid you linked. IMO pretty much garbage. For example he says to always read the gravity at the top of the meniscus. This may be the case for some hydrometers but not all and is very carless to be abolute like that as it depends on the surface tension of the solution. Each hydrometer should be tested on distilled water and the &lt;em&gt;bottom&lt;/em&gt; of meniscus is your reading then variable surface tension is not a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T14:05:28.360" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T14:05:28.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18101" CreationDate="2016-08-01T14:30:19.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;should be ok&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) It sounds like it just has more lag time from the cool temp. It should kick off soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) actually the opposite, the colder temp has slowed the growth phase so the yeast will produce less esters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's not much risk in thermal shock going warm to cool. Cold to hot is what can burst cell walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T14:30:19.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1159" CreationDate="2016-08-01T18:04:25.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just blow air into the runoff tube.  Works every time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13962" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T18:04:25.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10625" CreationDate="2016-08-01T19:27:13.130" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I see all of the above answers...but I have been using 15 gallon demijohns with a bottom Spigot for many years. I make wine. The demijohn  is not good for the primary, but after the 1st or 2nd racking it works great. You do need to fill it (15 gallons). The newer models are very light...hey, I am 64 with a replaced shoulder and it is easy for me to deal with. Once its placed and full, well, its there until you empty it or get a couple of tough guys to move it. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13963" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T19:27:13.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18108" CreationDate="2016-08-01T23:46:21.303" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my very first batch of extract (Brewer's Best Amber Ale) yesterday morning, and I'm still not seeing any bubbling in the airlock. I'm running through a list of things that could I could have done wrong, and one of them &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have been from when I racked the wort from the (cooled) brewpot into the plastic &quot;Ale Pale&quot; fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Yes&lt;/em&gt;, I confirmed the wort was chilled down to 110&amp;deg;F before I racked. And &lt;em&gt;yes&lt;/em&gt;, I racked using a sanitized autosiphon, into a sanitized fermenter. And &lt;em&gt;yes&lt;/em&gt; I added several gallons of refrigerated distilled water into the fermenter prior to pitching the yeast, confirming that the wort was 70&amp;deg;F at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the one thing I &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have done very wrong was that I tried to autosiphon every last ounce out of the brewpot, even tipping it nearly on its side to make sure the autosiphon got everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I introduce &quot;bad things&quot; (trub?) into the fermenter by doing this? If so, what are these bad things, why are they bad, and is it OK to just leave the last 1/4&quot; - 1/2&quot; of cooled wort in the brewpot next time?!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13954" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T00:58:49.217" Title="Is it ok to tip the brewpot while racking?" Tags="|racking|trub|siphon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2666" CreationDate="2016-08-02T00:26:55.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;to prevent boil overs, I learned from my grandmother, use a boiling disk. It is a stainless steel, glass or ceramic disk with two notches in the edge. you put it in the pot at the start when the water begins to boil it &quot;clatters&quot; warning you the boil has started. It also breaks up the bubbles that form at the bottom of the pot and disperses them so you don't get those BIG bubbles exploding at the top, splashing liquid all over. &#xA;Also called a &quot;pot minder&quot; sold on amazon ( about $5), Lehmans (glass about $2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it works and can be sterilized and doesn't add chemicals to your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13964" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T00:26:55.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18106" CreationDate="2016-08-02T00:58:49.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is okay, and you didn't introduce any &quot;bad things&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More than likely, you have pitched a sub-optimal or basically-reasonable quantity of yeast into wort with very little dissolved oxygen, and the yeast are just having a very long lag phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was your pitch like (dry yeast? liquid? age? amount? starter?). What's the ambient temp of the fermentor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, relax, don't worry, have a homebrew… I'm sure you'll see yeast activity in the next 36 hours. Everything's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T00:58:49.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18110" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:50:32.830" Score="1" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello fellow home brewers, I recently brewed my first Belgian stout and used a liquid yeast for the first time as well. I got my stout into the primary early on Sunday morning, I used a tube going into sanitized water as my blow off. The bubbling from the primary seemed to be going well until I came home early Tuesday morning to find that my beer (and presumably some yeast) had overflowed through the tube and into the sanitized water. So my question is, has anybody had this happen before and why did this happen. Thank you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13968" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T11:58:14.403" Title="Overflow into sanitized water." Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18109" CreationDate="2016-08-02T13:06:46.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Happens all the time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing to worry about, other than a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Couple tips.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More head space in fermentor can prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger diameter hose is recommended 1/2+ if you think it may happen. Small  diameter hoses can clog and blow off leaving beer exposed without an airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using starsan in your reservoir harvesting the krausen yeast from it is an easy way to keep a strain. Read up on yeast washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the resevoir gets yeast and wort in it, replace it asap. As it can get diluted and no longer work as sanitizer. But save it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As to the why it happened&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low head space and a good vigorous fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T11:58:14.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18116" CreationDate="2016-08-03T00:31:27.460" Score="1" ViewCount="1222" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brand new to brewing, 2.5 days ago I brewed my first extract kit (Brewer's Best Amber Ale) and racked it into my fermenter. By tomorrow morning I'll be at the 3 day (72 hours) milestone, which is what I've heard is the end of the &quot;everything is OK&quot; range; and still no bubbling activity in the airlock. And I don't expect there to be when I wake up tomorrow...I've checked and rechecked the seal w/ the plastic fermenter, and it appears to be solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wake up tomorrow and still don't see any bubbling, I would like to open up the lid and take a peek to see what's happening on the inside of the fermenter, but would like to know a few things before I go and expose my wort/beer/whatever-the-heck-it-is-at-this-point to the air:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the wort is bad, how can I tell? Are there obvious signs of bacterial contamination or wild yeast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the wort is still good/salvageable, what can I do to kickstart/resurrect it? I'm out of yeast and the yeast I used was from the kit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things to help put this into context:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All equipment was sanitized via Easy Clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wort was ~70&amp;deg;F when I pitched the yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I let the yeast sit on the surface, untouched, for ~20 mins to rehydrate them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I stirred them into the wort &lt;em&gt;vigorously&lt;/em&gt;, so as to distribute them and to help aerate the wort (did I kill them?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fermenter has been sitting in my dark, dry, cool (~65&amp;deg;F) basement ever since I racked this past weekend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I'm just wondering what I can look for when I open up the lid, what signs might tip me off to where I went awry, and what I might be able to do so that my first batch of homebrew (ever) isn't a total failure. After spending ~$150 on all the equipment and ingredients, my wife would appreciate that last part :-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: At the 72 hour mark here's what the wort looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKLK9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKLK9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's the most messed up part:&lt;/strong&gt; I went to take the SG. I sanitized the hydrometer and gently set it in the top of the wort (I don't currently have a test jar) and... and the darn thing sunk all the way to the bottom!!! Kerplunk! Gone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the heck does that mean?!? OG was 1.045 3 days ago...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Also, how do I safely (i.e. sanitarily) get my hydrometer out of the wort?&lt;/strong&gt; It's completely submerged...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13954" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T22:22:27.493" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T22:22:27.493" Title="How to troubleshoot for either bad wort or bad yeast?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|wort|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-03T01:12:47.780" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took a year hiatus from brewing because My wife and I recently had a baby. Now that it is not as demanding I wanted to start brewing again. I found a kit I had for about a year. It's a vanilla porter. The yeast and hops have all been sealed and refrigerated the entire year, but the LME and grains we not. The room they were in could sometimes get up to 90 degrees in the summer. they were sealed but I'm wondering if it's even worth brewing. Does it go stale? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T06:46:32.167" Title="Should I even bother with this kit?" Tags="|lme|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18111" CreationDate="2016-08-03T05:32:40.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic buckets, if that's what you have, are often not completely air tight. Not all bucket style fermenters even have an airlock, they just vent any positive pressure in the inside on through an imperfect seal around the lid. I'd open it and sneak a peek on day 3. If there's a krausen (nasty looking foamy layer on top), you're ok. Seal it back up and leave it for another 10 days, then bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's no sign of a krausen after three days, then you likely had a bad yeast in your kit. Get a fresh packet of suitable dry yeast, Safale US-05 is a safe go-to for a neutral ale yeast, and pitch that as per it's instruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming you do not have a hydrometer? If you do, then you should have measured gravity before pitching the yeast, and again now to be certain if the yeast is doing anything or not. That said there should be visible signs of fermentation on day 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can not imagine you got an unfermentable wort from an extract kit. It's loaded with sugars even if it has gone bad, and no way there's enough other bugs or low enough PH to stop the yeast without it being very obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13548" LastEditorUserId="13548" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T07:05:41.610" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T07:05:41.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18112" CreationDate="2016-08-03T06:31:14.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would certainly make it if I had it around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I would get a fresh pack of dry yeast. It has the shortest shelf life of the stuff you have, and is the cheapest to replace. There's probably enough cells there to bring it back with a starter, but I wouldn't feel bad about throwing away a kit yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Steeping grains, like Crystal/Cara grains, are just fine. The sugars you want from them are already converted and caramelized, and they'll keep for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;LME, according to Breiss at least, can be stored at up to 90F for 24 months. So 12 months with temperatures topping out at 90F should be fine. It does darken with age and in warm conditions, but who cares for a Porter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The hops are fine as long as the have been in their original packaging. Hops are flushed with nitrogen and vacuum sealed at manufacturing, as long as the seal is kept, they'll keep for a long time. Oxygen ruins them fast though, so if the packaging has lost it's seal, it might be time to get a new pack. My very unscientific and probably too conservative test: Is it still green? Then it's probably fine. Is it starting to turn yellow/brownish? That's oxygen doing it's thing, get a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13548" LastEditorUserId="13548" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T06:46:32.167" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T06:46:32.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-03T10:52:39.143" Score="3" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for alternative LME providers to use with my 6 gallon Mr. Beer kit. Coopers LME selection is decent, but I was wondering if anyone has used other brands of LME before with Mr. Beer. If so, how did it compare with the Coopers line? Are there any advantages/disadvantages to any brands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13971" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T18:13:00.910" Title="Can any LME be used for Mr. Beer kits or is it suggested to only use theirs?" Tags="|beer|first-time-brewer|recipe|lme|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18111" CreationDate="2016-08-03T12:09:31.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything looks by the book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not see bubbling in an airlock even if c02 is being released. Usually won't get bubbles if just using distilled water or alcohol, not enough surface tension. You will see bubbles as they happen, just won't have surface bubbles. Bell style airlocks are what I prefer as it will lift up with pressure. Also a bad seal on the fermentor will make an airlock inactive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you kill the yeast from vigorously mixing? &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, it would be difficult to destroy yeast mechanically even in a pestle&amp;amp;motar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you give up on your yeast and consider repitching. Raise the temp to 72° to wake up the yeast, once started then drop to 65°&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future you can proof your yeasty making a mini yeast starter to hydrated and get yeast active before pitching. This mostly eliminates questions if the yeast is usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T12:26:16.183" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T12:26:16.183" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18115" CreationDate="2016-08-03T13:15:23.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use LME (or DME) from any provider, they're all &lt;em&gt;basically&lt;/em&gt; the same. There might be slight differences in sugar content, flavor, color, quality, &amp;amp;c., but LME is LME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T13:15:23.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="949" CreationDate="2016-08-03T17:06:00.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe a beer must be at least 8.5% alc or 9% to be an Imperial beer. For example an IPA with 8% alc is not imperial, and Imperial IPA would be I believe at least 8.5-9% and up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13972" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T17:06:00.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18120" CreationDate="2016-08-03T17:12:08.710" Score="0" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fermented my first batch of extract in a plastic 'ale pail' using an airlock with the following mixture in it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50% tap water; and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50% whiskey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It never bubbled. Not even once. In 3 days. And while I can't prove scientifically that the lid was on tight, it was on as tight was I could make it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But&lt;/strong&gt;, when I cracked open the lid and took the SG, it was obvious that fermentation was occurring). I was told by someone recently that airlocks consisting of either distilled water or alcohol usually don't bubble:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Usually won't get bubbles if just using distilled water or alcohol, not enough surface tension.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious as to what this means (exactly), because to me (an uninitiated rookie), if CO2 is trying to escape, it shouldn't matter whether you're using alcohol, distilled water, tap water or crude oil: &lt;em&gt;gas &lt;strong&gt;has&lt;/strong&gt; to escape!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what's so special about both distilled water and alcohol that causes it not to bubble when used inside an airlock?!? I guess I'm hung up on the meaning of &quot;&lt;em&gt;not enough surface tension&lt;/em&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13954" LastEditorUserId="13954" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T17:38:19.563" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T13:15:16.263" Title="Does distilled water and/or alcohol cause airlocks not to bubble?" Tags="|water|airlock|alcohol|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18119" CreationDate="2016-08-03T18:20:01.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To elaborate on my comment more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some airlocks won't show tale tale signs of c02 that has already escaped if using a solution in them that won't form bubbles on their surface like pure water or alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using starsan (a foaming sanitizer) you will see bubbles or foam in the air lock long after fermentation has slowed. Giving you the assurance that fermentaion is active, with out opening the fermentor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During vigorous fermentation it is impossible to miss bubbles regardless of the solution as long as the c02 is going through the airlock and not leaking out elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many beers, ciders and meads especially can hit terminal gravity in a matter of hours and leave little visible signs it did anything. Taking an actual gravity reading is best, but sometimes it's not practical just for diagnosis (1 gallon batch of mead) this is where a foaming airlock solution is helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T18:20:01.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18119" CreationDate="2016-08-04T13:15:16.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you mentionned you were fermenting in an Ale Pail, I'd add to Evil's answer that they are notorious for not having an airtight seal, so CO2 can leak through the side of the lid (the easiest path).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a simple Google search, you'll see that it is a pretty common &quot;problem&quot; (quoted because it really shouldn't affect your brew during primary fermentation since no air can enter as CO2 is produced in the bucket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/?gfe_rd=cr&amp;amp;ei=1D-jV-P4FoKN8QfTn4CQCg&amp;amp;gws_rd=ssl#q=bucket+fermentation+airlock+activity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.google.ca/?gfe_rd=cr&amp;amp;ei=1D-jV-P4FoKN8QfTn4CQCg&amp;amp;gws_rd=ssl#q=bucket+fermentation+airlock+activity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13896" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T13:15:16.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18115" CreationDate="2016-08-04T18:13:00.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, you can use any LME or DME. Check out multiple vendor's 5G Extract with or without steeping grains recipes. BrewDemon.com has their own 6G recipes along with Black Rock LME recipes. Advantages would be more variety of beer types instead of being limited to just whatever Mr. Beer or Coopers sells? &#xA;Hope this helps to answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13947" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T18:13:00.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3742" CreationDate="2016-08-04T18:18:50.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the HME (hopped malt extract) containers aren't bulging or smell bad when you open them, they'll probably be fine, the beer might be a little darker color than the recipe originally made. The yeast might have expired so you might buy a new package of yeast to use. Awhile back I bought some extra bottles, the guy threw in some old recipes that were several years old. The cans looked and the HME smelled fine so I brewed them. Guess what, I made beer. It wasn't the best beer I've ever brewed but they tasted okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13947" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T18:18:50.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-06T10:41:28.997" Score="2" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making my first batch of beer to try out brewing. The kit I have produces 20 pints but unfortunately I don't have bottles to put the beer into afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other way of storing the beer? I will only be storing it for about a month before consuming it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I store them in Glass Clip Lid Jars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T11:43:32.997" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T12:41:14.073" Title="Making my first batch, but don't have bottles" Tags="|fermentation|beer|brewing|bottles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18127" CreationDate="2016-08-06T12:07:53.830" Score="0" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got into brewing (well, extract brewing) and all the kits I use come with a grain bag. I've since learned that it is perfectly fine to reuse these bags, so long as you clean + dry them properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, every time I use them, they have hundreds/thousands of tiny seeds/husks/&quot;stuffs&quot; caked onto them. Even after meticulously washing and cleaning them, I still end up with a clean + dry grain bag that has hundreds of seeds/husks/stuffs tangled up with the bag (which is made of cotton).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I ask: are there any known tricks to getting these hundreds of &quot;stuffs&quot; dislodged from the cotton bag &lt;em&gt;prior&lt;/em&gt; to cleaning it, or do I really have to sit there with a pair of tweezers and pick them out one-by-one (because if that's the case I'll just buy a new grain bag each time - they're only a few bucks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I don't like to be wasteful, so I'd like to reuse if possible. Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13954" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T10:57:45.407" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T10:57:45.407" Title="How to clean a cotton grain bag for reuse" Tags="|extract|cleaning|grain|steeping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18129" CreationDate="2016-08-06T12:19:08.880" Score="1" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brand new to brewing and am just using extract kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got my haircut recently, and it gave me an idea for brewing (!). The barber keeps his scissors in a little trough full of that blue barbicide. Throughout the day, customer after customer, he never cleans or washes the scissors by scrubbing them manually. He puts the scissors into the barbicide every time he's done using them. And when he needs them again, he pulls them out of the barbicide and uses them immediately on the customer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering if this translates to keeping brew equipment/utensils santized. My extract brews are taking a few hours from start to finish, and I am constantly setting utensils (mash paddles, measuring cups, whatever) down on a clean surface, but then feel the need to re-sanitize them every time I need them again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering if I can just make a big tub of sanitized solution (I've been using no-rinse &lt;strong&gt;Easy Clean&lt;/strong&gt;), once, at the beginning of my brew session, and then just use it (like the barbicide) to keep my utensils sanitary? That way I can just use them as-is (since its no-rinse) when I need them, and then throw them back into the vat-o-sanitation when I'm done with them (for the moment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13954" LastEditorUserId="13954" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T12:25:32.270" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T13:11:35.087" Title="Safe/practical to leave brew equipment in no-rinse sanitation tub throughout the whole brew?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18125" CreationDate="2016-08-06T12:27:06.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the sake of convenience I would replace them with nylon bags either from your LHBS or nylon paint strainer bags from your hardware store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nylon bags  clean very easily and have a very fine mesh so husk doesn't get stuck in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T12:27:06.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18124" CreationDate="2016-08-06T12:41:14.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have bottling gear (bottles, capper, caps, bottle tree etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your alternatives need to hold about 15 psi, and be easy to sanitize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 liter soda bottles work nice, just need to keep the beer out of the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you can find flip top bottles (grolsch style) at .99 cent stores. Brown bottles are a rare find cheap so again no light. LHBS should be able to get them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start saving retail beer bottles and get some bottling equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately we like to keg our beer. But there's a lot of upfront costs. (corny keg, c02 tank, regulator, tap, lines and a place to refridgerate it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T12:41:14.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18126" CreationDate="2016-08-06T13:02:58.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short, No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Easy clean is not a sanitizer&lt;/strong&gt;. After cleaning with easy clean, a no rinse sanitizer needs to be used like starsan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often soak beer equipment for hours in oxyclean, very similar to easy clean. But I rinse after and then sanitize before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soaking anything in &lt;strong&gt;sanitizer&lt;/strong&gt; for much longer than it's recomened contact time can be bad for some materials. Glass being the exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acidic sanitizers (Starsan): Most plastics and silicone will turn to slime if left to soak more than an hour. Metals will start to corrode or etch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iodine sanitizers (Io star): will stain silicone, though only cosmetic. Items sanitized with this need to fully air dry before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be going clean freak as we all do when we are new to brewing. Keep in mind your only utensils that need to be sanitized are those that will come into contact with your wort after the boil and chill. Usually this will only be your fermentor and any line used to fill it. Best practices are to use the boil for sanitan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T13:11:35.087" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T13:11:35.087" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18132" CreationDate="2016-08-06T13:32:55.183" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed an APA last year, and decided to keep a gallon or so aside and pitch some brett into it. 9 months later, I bottled it with a carbination drop, and a week later (I'm impatient OK?) there's still zero carbination. Is there a chance I might need to add a bit of extra yeast to carbonate, or is it that the brett is a bit slower to work with the carbination drop? Any pointers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3864" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T13:53:50.117" Title="Brett aged beer - bottling?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|brettanomyces|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18141" CreationDate="2016-08-06T13:47:10.663" Score="1" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00ODSSX4K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this plastic mash paddle&lt;/a&gt; for stirring my boiling wort, but now that I'm actually about to use it...I'm wondering if these types of paddles are only safe for things like steeping temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bort maintains a rolling boil north of 212&amp;deg;F...can I use this paddle to stir it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13954" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T16:50:41.163" Title="Are plastic mash paddles safe for stirring boiling wort?" Tags="|mash|boil|plastic|food-safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18130" CreationDate="2016-08-06T17:24:35.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you use real Brett Or Faux Brett (Saccharomyces &quot;Bruxellensis&quot; Trois)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case it's probably dead or very weak, usually the Brett is added at the time of bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repitch your bottles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T13:53:50.117" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T13:53:50.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18140" CreationDate="2016-08-06T22:50:01.800" Score="2" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered some new corny kegs and a couple of them arrived with a dent in their side. I was wondering (hoping) if anyone knew of a method of removing those dents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6866" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T12:34:25.433" Title="Dented Corny Keg" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-07T11:47:08.703" Score="1" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brewing buddy has made a move toward grain brewing with the purchase of a brewing pot equipped with a thermometer, false bottom, and screen in the false bottom with an attached valve.  We can get to a mash temperature, add grain and hold temp with his burner unit if need be.  Do we then drain the wort into a second vessel, batch sparge in the brew kettle, drain it off too and then clean the kettle out and add the liquid back in to boil?  I'm just looking for the most efficient procedure here.  Recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13980" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T13:38:15.860" Title="Mashing&amp;Sparging in a single vessel" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18138" CreationDate="2016-08-07T12:23:00.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a boil pot and mash tun (two vessel system) you're limited to batch sparge. Use the boil kettle to heat the batch water, add to mash tun then lauter wort back to the boil kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fly sparge needs 3 vessels with the addition of a hot liquor tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have the one vessel (mash tun) then you need to use a grain bag to remove the grain after the mash. Then the tun doubles as the boil kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your false bottom is a couple inches from the burner area you can apply heat during mash but it's really not recommended. Its difficult to get even heat through the mash even with stiring and often much of the enzymes denature near the burner.  Best to insulate well and use a strike water calculator for temp and rely on insulation to hold it, unless you have a HERMS / RIS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T12:23:00.370" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18133" CreationDate="2016-08-07T12:34:25.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the dent doesn't effect the keg volume significantly I would leave it be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're familiar with how to repassify stainless you can try to hammer it out with an auto body palm hammer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless it was an &quot;as is&quot; purchase I would return them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T12:34:25.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18131" CreationDate="2016-08-07T16:50:41.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Probably - but I wouldn't&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material Type: Plastic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not very informative, and i couldn't find any details. If there is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Food_safe_symbol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;food safe symbol&lt;/a&gt; on it, it shouldn't introduce any toxins to your food in realistically expected use cases. Including common accidents like unintentional boil of your mash. And there is no real difference between accidental or planned boil, is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, it is mash paddle, so it may get less stiff and strong over mash temperatures, say, 180°F. If parts of it will tear off? No one will blame manufacturer. Still, your wort shouldn't be in any danger of contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may try to boil pure water, and see how it acts. Or leave this one for mash, and buy big wooden spoon for boil. These are pretty cheap, and safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there isn't a food safe symbol, consider throwing it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T16:50:41.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17921" CreationDate="2016-08-08T07:36:13.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Theo says, every recipe should be adjusted to your equipment. It is too hard to retrieve exact same results as the recipe provides even if volumes are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of factors on the wort evaporation, such as surface, heat, humidity... So one part of our hobby is to know our equipment as much as we can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would recommend you is that you start with a simple test of your pot. Fill it with same volume as the recipe with tap water, and let it boil for 60 min for example. How much water have you lost? Now you have got an aproximate evaporation rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use this rate into a homebrew software. It is not required to use beersmith, there are many good and free other software and calculators out there. As many batches you do, you will understand better your equipment and you will be able to make better predictions using your software solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of your boil... take measures! Let's say you are looking for an OG 1,050. When your boil is finished, What's your gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is higher (i.e. 1,060), you could add some water into the fermentor. But, once again, do not follow the recipe, use a calculator (or pen &amp;amp; paper!) to calculate how much water do you need to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is less, of course do not add more water to the fermentor. Probably, your efficience is less than your software expected. Once again take notes, and insert your real efficience into your favourite soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps, maybe is not exactly the answer you where looking for or is a little bit obvious, however I think is important to keep in mind that you do not have to adapt to the recipe, instead you have adapt each recipe to your equipment, and thats another part of our hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13907" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T07:36:13.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-08T13:52:09.623" Score="2" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably my 10th batch and I've never had an issue with drinkability or infections, so i just want to make sure this is normal. I assume it's just Co2 bubbles, but i am not 100% sure. What else could it be? The Krausen falling maybe? I'd assume it's just bits of yeast and wort proteins or Co2 bubbles. Can anyone confirm this? Does it look insidious? &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k0frj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k0frj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T15:00:33.620" Title="Fermentation Just finished up, does this look right?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|co2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18144" CreationDate="2016-08-08T15:00:33.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;looks good, nothing to worry about&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the sides, that's just the yeast and other particles falling back in and getting hung up. I've noticed it on that style of carboy more than smooth wall styles. Also if using starsan with water with high minerals and it air drys leaving a surface that things can cling to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T15:00:33.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17921" CreationDate="2016-08-08T15:55:17.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often don't measure precisely my water amount going into the boil kettle.  After 45 mins of a 60 min boil, one can always do a sanity check to see if your boil-off rate is in check.  If your water level is too high, boil a bit longer, if it's too low, you can add some (tap) water at this point and boil the rest of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding it at this point will give any water you add some boil time to clean it up.  Otherwise, having a gallon of pre-boiled or distilled water to top off after boiling is fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, not knowing your techniques, it does sound like you needed more pre-boil wort.  Were your grains fully drained?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13945" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T15:55:17.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18021" CreationDate="2016-08-08T18:33:33.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, temperature-related off-flavors in beer get produced in the first three or four days of fermentation. It is fairly common for homebrewers to ramp up the temperatures of lagers to 22C or so after the first week or two of fermentation to reduce diacetyl, and to speed the remainder of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is, never dump a beer based on what you think MIGHT happen, until you try it for yourself. Homebrew forums often make it seem like any error will be the end of the world, but beer is very forgiving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13655" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T18:33:33.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18149" CreationDate="2016-08-08T22:43:12.247" Score="4" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cider brew (5 gal) has experienced a large drop in its specific gravity readings over a 24 hour period. Yesterday it was measured at 1.05 with the kit recommending bottling at 1.04 or lower. Today I measured the brew and the specific gravity was measured at 1.008. What happened? Should I bottle at this point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first brew so any info you can give me would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13986" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T23:55:54.310" Title="Large drop in specific gravity over 24 hour period" Tags="|bottling|cider|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18148" CreationDate="2016-08-08T23:50:39.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's best to let it hit terminal gravity, then add priming sugar before bottling. (dry, sparkling)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ciders can ferment very quiclky, so your drop is not a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ciders have many styles when and how you bottle depends greatly on the desired sweetness and carbonation. Ranges from dry to sweet and still to sparkling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sweet / Sparkling being the most difficult to achieve with bottle conditioning. Dry / Still being the easiest and safest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the potential terminal gravity, when to bottle using existing fermentables can be risky. Bottling too early can make some bottle bombs. It's not uncommon for ciders to hit 0.990 and typically only 0.002-0.004 gravity points are needed for carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T23:55:54.310" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T23:55:54.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-09T05:24:29.937" Score="0" ViewCount="937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have normally mashed out at 172F/77.8C while fly sparging. I switched to batch sparging without adjusting my mashout-water-addition temperature, and have been mashing out at 180F/82C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any consequences to mashing out at a higher temperature than 172F?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the homebrew I've made since switching to this method have been bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:49:06.453" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:49:06.453" Title="Are there any consequences to mashing out at higher than normal temperatures?" Tags="|mashing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18150" CreationDate="2016-08-09T06:32:25.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At about 80 C enzymes start to denature, and no longer work. You end up with little fermentables and a lot of starch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rough rule is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;62°C for maximum fermentable sugars, mostly maltose (alcohol in finished beer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;72°C for maximum not fermentable sugars (body and residual sweetness)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;82°C for mash out, and to stop any conversion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mash at, say, 65°C, and you only sparge at 82°C and it's bad, but was OK when you did sparge at 78°C, it means you should simply mash longer. Your previous process didn't break all enzymes before sparge, so starch could also be converted during sparge, filtration, and before boil. Now it cannot, so you need to make sure it's all converted before sparge. Consider iodine test, or two hours mash, with generous stir every 20 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T06:32:25.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18150" CreationDate="2016-08-09T11:34:37.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not recommended&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Molot stated your &quot;mash&quot; must be much lower or enzymes will denature. After saccarification, temps can be raised for protein rests mash-out etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash-out shouldn't exceed 168° unless the sparge water is treated to be below pH 6.0. If the sparge water is too alkaline (pH 6.0+) AND 170°F tannins will extract from the husks making the beer astringent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:48:19.447" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:48:19.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-09T16:21:30.360" Score="-2" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mahrs.de/en/beer/mahrs-braeu-ungespundet-hefetrueb-unfiltered-yeast-turbid/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mahr's Ur&lt;/a&gt; recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10865" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T20:51:56.840" Title="Mahr Ur ungespundet recipe" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18138" CreationDate="2016-08-10T13:38:15.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With one vessel and a grain bag, you're essentially doing the brew in a bag technique, popularized by our brewing friends from down under.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of you tube videos showing how to do this method, search for the term BIAB.  You will probably need to upgrade the bag you use, however, as the normal grain bags given with steeping grains won't be strong enough to pull out the entire amount.  (it's heavy with the water)  Some use paint strainer bags found at home improvement stores, but those can be prone to ripping after a few uses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All grain brewing is just soaking grains in hot water for a time, then either taking the water off the grain, or taking the grain out of the water. In single vessel brewing, you're taking the grains out of the water, then proceeding to boil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned a thermometer, do be careful not to snag the bag on that.  But with the false bottom, you should be able to heat your mash if it should fall too much after adding the grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13945" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T13:38:15.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-10T18:24:01.963" Score="1" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just dry hopped an IPA i brewed on July 30th. I plan on kegging it next Wednesday, exactly one week from today. The Beer has had a full 10 days of primary fermentation so far and is only going to finsish around 6%. I am going to keg it next wednesday and store it til sep 3rd for my week at the beach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct in thinking that the fermentation will CERTAINLY be 100% done by then, and if i keg it and gas it to store it, that it'll be alright? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on throwing another Oz of Citra in a bag and dropping it in the keg a couple days before i tap it just to boost the aroma. I just want to make sure im not jumping the gun and missing some crucial final touches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T03:46:57.573" Title="Is it too soon to keg if im storing for a few weeks?" Tags="|dry-hop|ipa|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18158" CreationDate="2016-08-10T22:04:38.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really won't know where it will finish until it holds SG for a couple days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for the sake of your situation I would do as you plan, but skip the hop in the keg and store it at serving temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T22:04:38.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18154" CreationDate="2016-08-10T23:10:17.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;well doing some reading, i have to say ignore my last comment. &#xA;I made a quick recipe for myself, that may or may not be close to what being a clone of the link above, but it does look good....and will be brewing this probably in the next few months. (FYI i have no idea what &quot;Mahrs Ur&quot; tastes like)&#xA;(inspiration for this &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/1808-german-pilsner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;is this recipe&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my interpertation is, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50% pilsner malt (6lb)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50% munich malt (6lb)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hallertau hops, 1oz 60min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hallertau hops  .25oz flame out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saflager W-24/70 (est attenuation up to 83%)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG 1.051&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG 1.009&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV 5.6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IBU(rager)19.8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Efficency 70%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;full body mash schedule&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Recipe is for 5 gals, on my system)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T20:51:56.840" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T20:51:56.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3561" CreationDate="2016-08-11T19:08:17.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast is good up to 110F. Death STARTS at 120F and Total Kill is at 140F. I've had to add yeast daily before due to buying dead yeast. Best to toss your yeast in a glass with 3 TBS of sugar and half fill with H2O that's no hotter than 105F. As a matter of a fact use 100F as a SAFE range everywhere. GENTLY stir the mix to break up clumps. LEAVE IT ALONE 15 Min.... If not a significant reaction... do over till you find a good start. Add to your fermenter and away you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13995" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T19:08:17.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18163" CreationDate="2016-08-12T01:54:27.133" Score="3" ViewCount="742" Body="&lt;p&gt;Went to the brew shop and the owner helped me build a recipe for a brew in a bag. He said to steep the grains in 2.5 gallons, then heat up 4.5 gallons and add it to the 2.5 gallons for the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only have a 4 gallon kettle. Can I just steep in the 2.5 gallons, then add more tap water to fill it up to 4 gallons, and then heat it up for the boil? Then add more water when in the carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T18:57:07.680" Title="Brew in a bag with a 4 gallon kettle" Tags="|all-grain|boil-kettle|extract-plus-grains|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18162" CreationDate="2016-08-12T06:54:29.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert, but I am also a BIABer and a I work with a small kettle (about 19 liters). So I am always trying to retrieve as much wort as I can with the limitations of my equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something that I recently learn adapting recipes to my equipment, is that yes is possible to make a more concentrate wort that fits size of my/your kettle, and after that dilute it as required in the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However... You must be carefull with two points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obtaining sugar from grains depends on the quantity of water you use in the mash. That means, if you mash with less water than the specified in the recipe you will need more grain to obtain the required quantity. &lt;strong&gt;Though this point does not apply to you&lt;/strong&gt;, as you are only steeping and not mashing ;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the other hand, at the moment of boil, you should be care about the hops additions. As the wort is more concentrated, extraction of oils and AA from hops is not the same, so you must increase hops quantity a bit also in order to retrieve same IBUS as the original recipe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Summary/Conclussion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the theory, not sure about the how noticeable will be hop propportions in your case, (also depends on the beer style, though). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your possition, I will go to boilling 4 gallons as proposed, and I would add &lt;em&gt;a little bit&lt;/em&gt; more hops than required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That &lt;em&gt;a little bit&lt;/em&gt;, is a tricky question. Maybe if you provide more info about the recipe and hops additions someone could give you more detail, or you could also try for yourself to calculate it with some software/tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recomend you reading following thread. It is about a concrete tool BIABacus, but I believe it will help you explaining the dilutions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;amp;t=3533&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How much beer can I get from my kettle?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13907" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T06:54:29.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18165" CreationDate="2016-08-12T07:27:21.740" Score="1" ViewCount="1571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that when using malted barley the conversion rate of starch to sugar is inefficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any advantages to adding additional enzymes like beano?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so what enzymes are recommended.?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13987" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T10:05:14.060" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T20:43:15.173" Title="Do I need to use enzymes in making malt whisky?" Tags="|base-malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18164" CreationDate="2016-08-12T10:23:40.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good malted barley can self-convert itself. This means that, given enough time and proper temperature, all starch will get converted to maltose, glucose and other fermentables. There is enough enzymes for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, when mashing for industry, time is at premium. It may be cheaper overall to boil barley, even malted, then cool it down to mash temperature, and add artificial enzymes. That way starch is &quot;gelled&quot; and easily accessible to enzymes, and you can cut time from 2 hours to possibly as short as half an hour. If you mash only small batch for yourself, it is not an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to add enzymes, you need amylase. Preferably Beta-amylase, it cuts starch to shorter, easier to ferment sugars. I always try to keep a sachet or two of it, in case I overheat my mash tun. But most of the time, malted barley provides all enzymes I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T21:31:45.047" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T21:31:45.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18164" CreationDate="2016-08-12T14:18:00.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Amylase are the enzyme needed for saccarification (conversion of starches to sugar) beta-amylase / alpha-amylase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the malted barley, It depends on the source and how it's malted if it will have any diastatic power (enzymes) or not. Brewers Malt will. Feed barley may not. Flaked, torrified and rolled will not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add Amylase to any grist using 6-row brewers malt or Amylase powder.  You need an average of 30°L Diastatic power for complete starch conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6-Row has 160°L so 20% of milled 6-row in any grist will make it convert well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T22:25:43.723" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T22:25:43.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18162" CreationDate="2016-08-12T18:57:07.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok here's what you want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the steep as instructed. When you remove the grains just before 170°F, sqeeze the bag the best you can to get as much wort as possible, silicone bbq mits help. Now at 1.75 gallons after grain absorption&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then top off to your kettle capacity with water, add DME, mix well and continue with boil without a lid on. Now at 4 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a 60 min boil you will lose about 1 gallon. Now at 3 gallons. Top off again, now back to 4 gallons and wort has a head start on the chilling. Chill this wort and add to fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil more water and chill to top off your fermentor with. Now at 5 gallons in the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This whole process is a partial boil method. Your grains are most likely only crystal malts for color / flavor and don't need a mash, only steeping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe needs to be designed for a 5 gallon batch though, if it's designed for less you will just get watered down wort and a lower ABV beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T18:57:07.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18169" CreationDate="2016-08-13T14:06:08.537" Score="5" ViewCount="4076" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an extract brewer that is going to try a BIAB 5 gallon batch. Reading about BIAB has me wondering why brewers would still do all-grain? Does sparging make that much of a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, why do a partial mash and add extract if you have a kettle large enough to steep all the grains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, last question. Does mashing in the full volume reduce grain efficiency much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastEditorUserId="13998" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T14:58:53.193" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T18:44:13.603" Title="Why do all-grain when you can do BIAB?" Tags="|all-grain|extract|biab|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18168" CreationDate="2016-08-13T15:36:03.367" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well BIAB is all grain brewing. Not to be confused with just steeping specialty grains in extract brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a kettle big enough to do a full mash, doing a partial mash and extract is pointless. Unless it's a high gravity beer that would normally need a much larger mash. Basically if you're mashing at all it doesn't save time doing only partial. Though having some fresh grain in will make a better beer in my opinion than all extract, and gives more recipe variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically a sparge system gives you more control over temp and gives a better rinse of the grains usually giving you better efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mashing with a full batch volume of water can give a very thin water to grist ratio and effectively reduce your diastatic power by dilution (less enzymes in actual contact with starches). Also it plays a big role in protein rests making it harder for proteins to rejoin. Usually a range of 0.25-0.35 gallons to 1 lb of grain are typical ratios to play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T18:44:13.603" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T18:44:13.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-13T19:08:30.110" Score="1" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going to start kegging after many years of bottling beer.  Watching YouTube, a brewer spoke of letting the beer &quot;clear&quot; for a few weeks before serving. I assumed he meant that he was cold crashing it prior to serving, but on his video he said that he fermented in only one bucket and used its bottom drain to fill the keg. Isn't it going to be nasty with hops and yeast?  I clear my beer as part of the my process, so, I don't think I'll run into that issue.  I think I'm missing a step here can anyone help fill in the blanks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T20:26:24.203" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T20:51:34.453" Title="Kegging, does the beer need to be clear?" Tags="|kegging|clear|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18173" CreationDate="2016-08-13T22:15:34.357" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given 10 gallons of homebrewed mead in a carboy.   It was made by my brother-in-law and his friend almost 10 years ago.   His friend moved away and he's kept the mead in the carboy, in a box (so it's not really exposed to light) for this entire time in his garage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) is it safe to drink?&#xA;2) if possible, how do I know? (ie what should I look for) &#xA;3) is there anything I should do prior to opening the carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background:    I have homebrewed once, and although I was successful it was done with someone who was experienced.    I inhereted all his equipment along with the mead and I need to decide what to do with this mead (he said it was ~14%abv before I start to organize and clean everything so I can learn from scratch.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14001" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T11:50:47.823" Title="How long can mead store when not temperature controlled?" Tags="|mead|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18171" CreationDate="2016-08-14T10:19:51.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polish mead classification differs from one in other countries, so my experience may be a bit hard to &quot;translate&quot;, sorry. At 14% ABV, it would be like our &lt;em&gt;czwórniak&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;trójniak&lt;/em&gt;. Our tradition says that it should mature in bottles or closed glass carboy for between two and four years (if czwórniak), or between four and eight years (if trójniak). Thus, ten years is actually on the fresh side, not too long after mandatory maturation period! For someone from a country with mead history five times older than USA itself, it all sounds really promising, not alarming at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it looks clear, or lightly uniformly cloudy, yellow to dark old gold in colour, if it smells good and tastes good, it probably is safe. I would drink it. Few cups to try, and rest on some important family gathering. Mature mead is too valuable to drink casually (hint: you know where the &quot;honeymoon&quot; name came from, don't you?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T10:19:51.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18171" CreationDate="2016-08-14T11:50:47.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off... How was the carboy sealed? Was it corked so no gasses may escape or did he keep a fermentation lock on it? If so did he keep water in it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two of the biggest enemies to mead are sunlight and drastic temperature swings. You brother-in-law hopefully stored your mead in a dark place in his garage where the temperature doesn’t change too much and it stays cool. If the garage stays an even temperature and it was sealed enough to keep contaminants out, I'd go for it. Providing it was clear in color and smelled good. 10 years is a trophy! I can't age mine past 1 year before I drink them... ENJOY!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again... I can't comment on precautions before opening because the way it is sealed isn't provided. I don't see any preparations before opening other than a big glass. If it is truly good you may want to think about bottling some before it disappears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T11:50:47.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18170" CreationDate="2016-08-14T14:11:01.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to fine your beer in the fermentor as much as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final finning is offten done in the keg with cold crash and gelitan. Because of the narrow keg usually a week is good to carbonate from top down and fine at the same time. Then the first couple pints are sludge and then clear from there. I prefer to fine this way in the fermentor and save those couple pints, also I prefer to carbonate using a stone or the out tube which stirs up sediment so the beer needs fined before kegging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the reference to bottom drain, is to the pick up tube on the keg not the fermentor. Its best to put beer into the out port on the keg. This reduces exposure to oxygen and infection, being better than opening the lid and using a hose. If you fill the keg with sanitizer, then purge with co2 the beer doesn't get any contact with air. When filing this way You need to release the co2 as beer enters, I air lock the &quot;in&quot; tube into starsan like you would a fermentor, pulling the safety release valve works too but with a slight risk of airborne infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T14:11:01.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18178" CreationDate="2016-08-14T23:41:42.303" Score="1" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning a Wheat IPA with 42% malted wheat in the grain bill. Is it normal to do the protein rest on the entire grain bill even if only some of the grains in the bill (i.e. the wheat) benefit from it? Or is it okay or recommended to just do the protein rest on the grains that need it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm doing BIAB and it would save some time if I did the protein rest of just the wheat grain separately in a smaller pot while I bring the remainder of the water up to strike temp for the main mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned about doing it on the entire grain bill after reading in Mosher's &lt;em&gt;Mastering Homebrew&lt;/em&gt; (p. 123):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;With modern malt, not only are protein rests usually unnecessary, but they can be harmful to beer, breaking up the mid-length proteins the maltster worked so hard to obtain.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With malted wheat being the exception since:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;If its long proteins are not broken up in the mash, they clump together and fall out of the beer rather than staying and providing an attractive haze. So, it is beneficial to use a protein rest in any beer with more than about 15% wheat in the grist.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UswLv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UswLv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13384" LastEditorUserId="13384" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T02:49:12.513" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T09:59:52.907" Title="Should you put entire grain bill through Protein Rest?" Tags="|biab|wheat|protien-rest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18175" CreationDate="2016-08-15T01:02:53.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would do the whole grist as part of the rest. Just make sure your bag is not touching the bottom when you heat up the mash. There shouldn't be a problem &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14004" LastEditorUserId="14004" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T02:52:57.693" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T02:52:57.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18168" CreationDate="2016-08-15T01:11:41.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not had any issues with efficiency with my BIAB setup. But it does takes time to understand how your system works and I squeeze the hell out of my bag. (Without a single issue with astringent flavors.) I use this spreadsheet to help me figure out my volumes. &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15GRihejTkN0rgrXlFxpBugsVlUSdrZPXQWZmFrnZEhw/edit?usp=drive_web&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15GRihejTkN0rgrXlFxpBugsVlUSdrZPXQWZmFrnZEhw/edit?usp=drive_web&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This big things to figure out are what your grain absorption rate is, and what your boil off rate is from your kettle.  This took me a while then bam my numbers were on point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14004" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T01:11:41.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18175" CreationDate="2016-08-15T09:59:52.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried wheat and rye only twice. First time I put all my grain thorough beta-glucan and protein rests. There was little to no foam. Second time, I did it only on unmalted grain, malted rye and malted wheat, adding barley later. And it worked like a charm. And maybe it's only placebo effect, but I think it tasted better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grain is relatively cheap. If you have time, brew two batches. One with all grist going thorough all rests, second with only wheat and unmalted ones going thorough protein rest. That way, you will know from your own experience, and that's a really good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T09:59:52.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18168" CreationDate="2016-08-15T12:51:40.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;BIAB &lt;strong&gt;IS&lt;/strong&gt; all grain brewing.  But it's not traditional multi-vessel brewing.  Some batch sparge with a cooler, others fly sparge with a sprinkler, some use a bag for the whole water amount (BIAB).  All-grain brewing, each of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for sparging, do note that some BIAB brewers add a sparge step, where they may pour a gallon or so of hot water over the grain bag while it drips over the pot.  It does add efficiency points for most who do this.  So not all BIAB is sparge-less.  Lots of ingenious methods to make wort.  Also, large grain bills for high-gravity beers can be unwieldy and might be difficult to manage, or fit as a one-bag brew.  In that case, a multi-vessel system can be most beneficial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for partial mashes, if you have a recipe that's a partial mash you might not want to spend the time, energy, and money to find the exact all-gain solution.  Also, lifting a wet, full grain bill out of the water is heavy and can be messy.  A pound or two of steeping or partial mash is much easier to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many BIAB brewers find their efficiency in the 80's, higher than traditional methods.  Crush it mightily!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13945" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T12:51:40.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18183" CreationDate="2016-08-15T14:49:01.370" Score="1" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did a BIAB IPA last night and this is what the wort looks like. The cooling method was an ice bath that took 45 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this chill haze?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5OiBr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5OiBr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T17:07:11.197" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T16:16:18.493" Title="Is this chill haze?" Tags="|fermentation|all-grain|chilling|biab|partial-mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18180" CreationDate="2016-08-15T18:06:56.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like starsan on top that siphoned into the fermentor from a Blow off bottle. This will happen if the wort drops temp faster than co2 is produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chill haze happens in the finished beer at serving temps, and is easy to identify by comparing a warm glass of it to a cold pour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T18:06:56.400" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3374" CreationDate="2016-08-16T00:20:05.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can! Just make sure that he threads and inner seal of each cap is good before you sanitize them and pop them onto your brand new fresh brew! A good thing to watch out for is overtightening just like simone above mentioned, the pressure bulges the cap up and can compromise the airtight and beer tight seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14005" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T00:20:05.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18180" CreationDate="2016-08-16T16:16:18.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No that is not chill haze. It is a mixture of yeast, hops, and proteins that form from the hot and cold break. I agree it looks like you have some Starsan in your batch. I learned early swap the blow off tube for a airlock before you cold crash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once active fermentation starts you will see all kinds of floating yeast and stiring going on. It's really my favorite part of brewing other than drinking my beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After fermenting is complete, I would then cold crash it to below 40 and all of that sediment will drop to the bottom and make a firm cake. You beer should bee pretty clear. If your really want it to be clear then fine with gelatin and you will be very impressed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14004" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T16:16:18.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1054" CreationDate="2016-08-17T13:03:28.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it looks like your source just took an all-grain recipe and converted by just taking the base grain and subbing in light DME, and then using ALL the flavor grains in a steep.  Typically, one would choose some darker malt extract to compensate for some of the steeping grains, such as Jordan suggested.  However, yes, this is one way to do what you want.  7.75 is a lot, but remember this is an imperial porter, so it's taking a lot of grain, goes with the style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe you linked to states 8-9 pounds of DME.  Use that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steep your 8 lbs of grains at 160 for 1/2 hour or so in a couple gallons of water, just like normal.  You'll need a big bag, or multiple grain bags for this.  Suggest you stir frequently to ensure water circulates around all the grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint strainer bags are useful.  You're almost doing all grain brewing at this point.  If you succeed and aren't discouraged by the whole affair, consider moving to some all-grain equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13945" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T13:03:28.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18189" CreationDate="2016-08-18T00:49:56.650" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;After the wort is chilled and ready to rack to the fermenter, I run into a problem. When pouring wort into the strainer in the funnel, a ton of hop gunk gets stuck. Then I need to scrape and repeat many times. All that time, the wort is exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the answer to use a hop bag so the transfer is faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T19:32:47.557" Title="Best way to rack to fermenter" Tags="|fermentation|wort|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-08-29T21:30:05.377" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18188" CreationDate="2016-08-18T01:59:08.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much. Either the strainer will strain the hop material, and clog, as you say, or you can use hop bags or a hop spider to do the filtering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other methods involve whirlpooling in the kettle to let hop material settle in a cone in the middle of the kettle, then transferring from the side of the kettle, outside of the cone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T01:59:08.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7577" CreationDate="2016-08-18T06:28:46.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add Irish moss on the last 15 min of boil next time. I also use a 2 stage (10 and 5 micron) filter system right off the keg line up to my tap. That's the only way to get truly clear beer at home&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14014" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T06:28:46.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18192" CreationDate="2016-08-18T14:06:16.687" Score="0" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what the fermentation has been so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 1: Not much&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 2: 3 bubbles in the airlock every 2 seconds. Good krausen formed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 3: 1 bubble per second&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 4: 1 bubble per 2 seconds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the fermentation generally be more aggressive for more days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T15:12:38.153" Title="Is this a stuck fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18191" CreationDate="2016-08-18T15:12:38.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to &quot;know&quot; if fermentation is happening is to take a gravity reading and compare it to the OG value.  If it's going down, then everything is working according to plan.  If it's stable, then nothing is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bubbles are a terrible way to determine how the fermentation is going along. (Although very entertaining!) Especially true if you use plastic buckets.  You could have a small air leak along the lid such that the CO2 is escaping in another spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially with the solid krausen forming, I would not even give it a second thought.  All kinds of factors determine how vigorous and how quickly the yeast is going to behave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13945" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T15:12:38.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17887" CreationDate="2016-08-18T17:04:41.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you might be better off using a single handle Delta faucet and making an adapter so you could mount a beer tap handle to it so you get the effect you are looking for but with a device designed for what you are doing (dispensing hot, cold and warm water at various flow rates). There are other brand single handle faucets, but Delta is the first one that came to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14017" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T17:04:41.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18195" CreationDate="2016-08-18T21:09:32.687" Score="0" ViewCount="2523" Body="&lt;p&gt;First mead attempt. Think it went moldy but looking for other opinions. Made it four weeks ago. Racked last week. Thinking about second racking. About 1/4&quot; yeast sediment so far and little to no activity through the airlock. What do you meadeers think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sUG5J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sUG5J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVUzn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVUzn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1989" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T14:03:43.777" Title="Mead turn moldy?" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18194" CreationDate="2016-08-19T13:53:15.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like yeast rafts. You will be fine. How does it taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14004" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T13:53:15.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18194" CreationDate="2016-08-19T14:03:43.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks fuzzy to me, but may just be refraction of the fermentor. If it is fuzzy then it's some sort of fungus or bacteria. Most of these are aerobic (needing oxygen) common if the secondary is too late to fill the head space with co2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &quot;may&quot; not be harmful. Usually the blue and black molds are cause for alarm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would rack to an other vessel purged of oxygen, giving care to not disturb what's on top leave behind a good inch of the surface mead. If it repeats in the new vessel it may be too contaminated. While it's unlikely any harmful pathogens are in the mead it may not taste that great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T14:03:43.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18188" CreationDate="2016-08-19T18:25:50.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use a siphon.  My experience is that it doesn't get clogged by hop material easily unless it is whole cone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best way is to use an autosiphon but hold it above the hop matter at the bottom.  You can also put a mesh bag over the end to keep out hop matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say that in my hoppy beers, I actually keep all the hop matter in there on purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3981" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T18:25:50.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18188" CreationDate="2016-08-19T19:32:47.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to use an auto siphon just over the bottom of the pot, as long as you don't move it around too much you shouldn't transfer much.  The little bit you to transfer can be left behind again by transferring again to a secondary fermentor.  From there, if you transfer into a bottling bucket, you should abandon all of it prior to bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14000" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T19:32:47.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-19T23:02:39.287" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about how to improve my fermentation procedure and reach a consistent yield of a full 5 gal of finished product after fermenting in 5 gal corny kegs. Searching on the net I've found &lt;a href=&quot;http://api.ning.com/files/ebWIBUU*QolcSMQSH3h3Dq8XwxY7PjUFtMn1jC1SSqCeCLwcnNKU7tqUt8We7A4*hfCVOcX6aW8DMs5b8Uv3OhbZbOKz9-TS/ConeyKegAirlock006.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this pic&lt;/a&gt;, and think: there is a heigth point to put the airlock that could entirely avoid blowing off? The plan was to fill the keg to the brim, link a long hose to an airlock and hang it high. After fermenting I could manage trub losses and keep a full serving keg. That question makes any sense? The diameter of the hose or the keg fittings could add anything to this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T01:50:36.443" Title="Put the airlock really high could avoid blowing?" Tags="|airlock|blow-off|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18199" CreationDate="2016-08-20T01:50:36.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If fermenting in a corney keg you will never yield 5 gallons of finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 5 gallons finished beer is the goal use 6-6.5 carboys and brew 5.5-6 gallons of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Primary yeast cake easily takes 1/3 gallon, secondary can be a little less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allow a good 1/2 gallon loss of dry hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Headspace is how you will limit blow off loss. If filling a corney with 5g and using an extended airlock as in your pic you will make mess unless it's a style of beer that has almost no head and a really slow fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That airlock imaged would only work for about a 4 gallon batch, with a final yield of about 3.5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T01:50:36.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18215" CreationDate="2016-08-20T12:19:59.853" Score="5" ViewCount="1272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are lots of questions on this site regarding head retention, but I feel like none of the answers are helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently made a hefeweizen. 50% wheat malt, 50% pilser malt with about 13-14 IBUs. The beer turned out great except that it has zero head retention. I get a thin layer of foam that dissipates in 5-10 seconds. I have had this problem in the past and I've tried all the traditional advice but nothing seems to help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, I &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be doing something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Single infusion mash at 67 C (~152 F).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;90 minute boil with all the hops added after 30 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooled quickly with my counterflow chiller, takes about 10 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30 second burst of pure O2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitched a 3 liter starter of WLP380. Wort temp at about 13 C (~55 F).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermented at 15 C (59 F) for one week, then left it for another three weeks at 20 C (68 F) to finish and get rid of the sulphur smell. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottled using 7 grams of table sugar per liter wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bottles have been at room temperature for four weeks now. They are well carbonated and taste great.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My kettle, mash tun and all other equipment is soaked in PBW solution for about an hour after each use, then thoroughly rinsed off using hot tap water and a soft brush. I've made sure there's no PBW residue left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My fermenter is also cleaned using PWB, rinsed with tap water, then sanitized with star-san solution. I leave the fermenter filled with star-san at least 30 minutes before transfering the wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I clean my bottles using PBW too. I soak them for 10 minutes and clean them with a bottle brush. Then I rinse them with water and sanitize with star-san solution. I leave them to dry on a bottle tree.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My beer glasses are cleaned by leaving them in PBW solution over night, then cleaned with a dedicated soft brush, rinsed with hot tap water and left to air dry on a rack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding a bit of cara foam malt: No visible effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ordered a water quality report: My tap water is clean and very low on minerals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switching to a different brand for my ingredients: No visible effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone here had similar problems in the past? I feel like I'm out of things to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to sum every thing up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nmqK9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nmqK9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqPlh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqPlh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I get there?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12464" LastEditorUserId="12464" LastEditDate="2016-08-20T13:55:53.810" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T13:24:47.360" Title="Hefeweizen head retention" Tags="|hefeweizen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-20T12:34:07.863" Score="3" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I need to totally fill the bucket with sterilising solution before siphoning into it, or is a couple of pints and a swish around going to be ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13975" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T08:47:13.627" Title="When sterilising my bottling bucket, do I need to totally fill it (5gal) with sterilising solution?" Tags="|sterilization|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18202" CreationDate="2016-08-20T14:45:21.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually fill it half way and make sure to coat the upper sides with those nice StarSan bubbles. I let it sit for a few minutes and then dump it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T14:45:21.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-20T15:13:32.193" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question can you carbonate a stout with c02 and then pour it on beer gas(nitrogen) and have the same cascading effect? Or do I have to carbonate with the beer has only&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14022" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T16:05:15.443" Title="carbonating with beer gas or c02" Tags="|carbonation|fermentation-temperature|help|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-08-29T21:30:22.853" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18202" CreationDate="2016-08-20T15:37:06.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is probable that you could just pasteurise the (otherwise clean) bucket using a kettle of boiling water. Boil the kettle, pour the boiled water down the sides of the bucket working round the bucket rim. When all the boiled water from the kettle is poured in you can put the lid on the bucket and tip it back and forth while rotating. The hot steam/air will cause the bucket lid to bulge - a quick vent will reduce the pressure.  In such a way after (say) 2 minutes the bucket is washed and pasteurised and suitable for transferring beer into, (but empty the bucket before using it). No steriliser is wasted and the environment is a little more undisturbed - and the beer is a bit closer to nature. Ah...&#xA;P.S. I have use this pasteurisation method for years. It has never failed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T08:47:13.627" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T08:47:13.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2016-08-20T15:37:42.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Spain we dry it and it opens up a new world of possibilities: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.lpernia.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WELCOME&#xA; TO UPCYCLING&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14023" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-09-23T11:54:44.277" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T11:54:44.277" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-08-20T15:37:42.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18204" CreationDate="2016-08-20T16:05:15.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you should carbonate with c02 only to about 2 volumes as nitro systems instruct.&#xA;Then serve on beer gas using a higher than normal pressure than you would pure c02, up to 25psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T16:05:15.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-20T21:04:21.550" Score="1" ViewCount="505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think I explained myself right. I have a c02 canister and I have beer gas. Can I carbonate an Irish stout with the c02 take it off the c02 then took it up to the beer gas and get the same pour effect creamy head or do I have to carbonate the stout with just the beer gas for it to pour like a Guinness with the cascading effect? Sorry for the same question again as I am new and a bit dim at this.&#xA;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14022" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T21:29:22.727" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T21:29:22.727" Title="carbonate stout properly" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18208" CreationDate="2016-08-20T22:31:42.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is duplicate, but for the sake of clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you should do as you described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creamy head comes from the beer gas pushing the beer at far greater pressure than can be done with pure c02. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not carbonate with beer gas, it's ineffective. It's for serving stouts, or pushing beer in really long lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T22:31:42.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18212" CreationDate="2016-08-21T01:01:59.810" Score="2" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time trying brewing...&#xA;Its pretty cold atm, and I kept the fermenter on the heating-pad pretty much all the time, wrapped in a towel. Temps were pretty stable around 20.5~21.9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I added my gelatin based finings - am I correct in thinking I need to turn off the heat and let it cool down for the finings to work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14026" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T13:53:06.210" Title="Keep fermenter heated after adding finings?" Tags="|finings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18202" CreationDate="2016-08-21T01:57:18.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to assume that you mean &quot;sanitize&quot;, not &quot;sterilize&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/180/what-is-the-difference-between-clean-sanitized-and-sterilized&quot;&gt;What is the difference between Clean, Sanitized and Sterilized?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much you need to use would depend on what you use for sanitizing. Personally I use Star San and filling the bucket with properly dilluted Star San would be a waste in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always keep a spray bottle with Star San solution around and use it after cleaning my fermenters. I clean my fermenters with a brush and some PBW, rinse well, then spray them with Star San solution. I make sure that the walls, the bottom and the lid of the fermenter is completely covered.&#xA;I leave the fermenter with the lid on until it's time to transfer the wort, then I throw out the Star San solution that is left at the bottom of the fermenter. Star San solution is safe to drink, but I prefer keeping the Star San content in my beer to a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell you this is the best way and I don't have any experience using other sanitizers than Star San, but I can tell you that I've done this for years and I have not had an infection yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12464" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T01:57:18.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18210" CreationDate="2016-08-21T02:08:50.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the beer has finished fermenting, then yes, turn down the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally gelatin fining should be added &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you have dropped the temperature. When it gets cold proteins in the beer clump into larger particles. This makes the gelatin finings more effective. &#xA;It is nothing to worry about, though. The beer will be just fine. Most of the brewers I know don't use finings at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12464" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T02:08:50.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18210" CreationDate="2016-08-21T13:53:06.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes remove it from heat, after fermentation is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical finnings aid gravity and assist the cold crash. I add gelitan and start the cold crash at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enzyme based finings work best at fermentation temps, so a cold crash after a couple days is best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T13:53:06.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18202" CreationDate="2016-08-21T14:13:36.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starsan is a foaming sanitizer requiring 3 minutes of contact time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always have better peace of mind when I fill my fermentor completly. But I've also relied on only foam conact when short on starsan / time with no I'll effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When preparing a secondary I fill completely then vacate with c02, but this is mainly to make the fermentor void of oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T14:13:36.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18201" CreationDate="2016-08-23T14:20:50.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to add a dextrin rest in your mash and use a thick water grist ratio 0.25 gallons per lb of grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 152°F(66.5C) your mash favors beta-amylase  for a more fermentable wort which is fine. Beta will denature completely after an hour at this temp, leaving alpha. Both are active at this temp but not ideal for either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After most saccarification is done boosting mash temp to 162°F(72C) and holding for 20 minutes will help head forming materials. This needs to be done after primary saccarification but before the mash is iodine negative (still some starches)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also don't remove hot break from the boil. Many will scoop this out to prevent boil over but this removes head forming proteins. Use a fry scoop to break it up and push it back in. I've started using &quot;foam control&quot; in the boil which works amazingly well. Its intended for fermentaion but a few drops drops in a 12g batch makes for a hot break you don't have to monitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T13:07:32.403" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T13:07:32.403" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18202" CreationDate="2016-08-23T16:20:26.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like using a spray bottle to sanitize larger equipment.  There is no need to waste your supplies by filling a bucket to the top with properly diluted sanitizing solution. While swishing it around MAY get the solution in contact with each square inch of the bucket, you will feel more comfortable using a spray bottle because you can see the liquid as you spray it.  Be sure to empty your spray bottle when you are done and make new solution each time you use it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that being said, I would like to point out that the plastic buckets used today are very good, but I try to use all glass because it is non-porous and easier to keep clean.  I know that wide mouthed carboys are pretty expensive, but it can last a much longer time and you will decrease the likelihood of contamination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14000" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T16:20:26.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18219" CreationDate="2016-08-23T16:23:18.760" Score="3" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up a package of Omega Labs Irish Ale liquid yeast last Saturday. I placed it in my fridge when I got home and took it out the following morning (Sunday) before I expected to brew. It sat out for about 3-4 hours before I realized I wouldn't be able to brew that day. I placed it back in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on brewing the following weekend. &lt;strong&gt;Will my yeast be alright, or should I pick up a &quot;fresh&quot; package?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was packaged in early July; it is currently 3 weeks into the following August.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13302" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T21:01:46.303" Title="Rehibernating Yeast" Tags="|yeast|red-ale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18217" CreationDate="2016-08-23T18:16:41.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;3-4 hours shouldn't hurt it much it might take longer to get going once you pitch it but sence the packet is still so new it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13445" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T18:16:41.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18217" CreationDate="2016-08-23T21:01:46.303" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your yeast should be fine. Room temperature does not hurt yeast, it just &quot;accelerates&quot; it, meaning it eats up nutrients faster. I do not have any experience with Omega Labs yeast, but the fresh yeast I use has a best-before date set to four months after the packaging date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same principle applies when making lagers vs. making ales. Ales often reach final gravity after 3-4 days while lagers can take as much as two weeks. Lagers take more time to ferment because of the lower temperature which causes the yeast metabolism to slow down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're still uneasy you could make a small yeast starter using some dried malt extract or even table sugar. A yeast starter would wake up the yeast and make it reproduce, resulting in a higher viable yeast cell count.&#xA;A lot of people would disagree with me on using table sugar, but I firmly believe that a yeast starter made with sugar is better than no yeast starter at all. I have tried it on a few occasions and I have seen nothing that woud make me believe otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12464" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T21:01:46.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-07T05:01:26.163" Score="6" ViewCount="2443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm learning about the basics of red wine making from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwj1yJT9wa7OAhVK2IMKHSXICUwQFggrMAA&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fmorewinemaking.com%2Fpublic%2Fpdf%2Fwredw.pdf&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNFQXwAKPweHTa9drpNLVZsXUhIYbg&amp;amp;bvm=bv.129391328,d.cGc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this guide&lt;/a&gt;.  I have campden tablets (potassium metabisulfate), but I'm really hoping to avoid using sulfites at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I'm doing a very small batch for myself, I can afford to put in a little extra effort.  Will &lt;strong&gt;boiling&lt;/strong&gt; my must right after destemming/crushing in a big pot suffice to &lt;strong&gt;sanitize the must in place of using sulfites?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" OwnerDisplayName="tarabyte" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T11:20:09.673" Title="How to avoid need for sulfites in home winemaking?" Tags="|red-wine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-24T11:22:09.433" Score="4" ViewCount="12019" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be a Stupid question, and since I am new to brewing beer I might have some more of these questions coming in later. My wife for some reason bought Brewer yeast, I am curious if this can be used as the yeast in beer brewing? forgive my lack of brewing terminology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14037" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T01:27:40.247" Title="Can you use nutritional Brewer yeast in the beer making process?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18221" CreationDate="2016-08-24T12:37:09.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your talking about the dietary suplement &quot;Brewers Yeast&quot;, then &lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the same species of yeast used in brewing but &lt;strong&gt;it's dead&lt;/strong&gt; and is used as a supplement for it's minerals etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T12:37:09.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18221" CreationDate="2016-08-24T12:43:19.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is &quot;maybe&quot;. &lt;em&gt;If it has &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; been heat treated or otherwise sterilised&lt;/em&gt;, it may be used to brew. However &quot;nutritional supplements&quot; are often  sterilised so it may be difficult to tell unless clearly stated. Even when not sterilised, if it is old stock it may not be sufficiently active to form a vigorous starter culture. Try some out by mixing/shaking in a clear jar/bottle with some sugar and some tepid/warm water. If the stuff is foaming well after a few hours then it probably could be used to brew. Whether that is a useful thing would depend on the beer being planned. For example &quot;brewers yeast&quot;if active may not be lager yeast....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of a few dollars it may be best to get some fresh brewing yeast of a strain suitable for brewing the desire beer. A &quot;fresh&quot; packet of dried yeast should last a year or so when kept cool in the fridge perhaps less on the shop shelf. Liquid (&quot;smack&quot;) packs and culture tubes are fashionable but may not be any more advantageous to the novice brewer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T12:43:19.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-24T19:46:40.377" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing and Irish stout fermantation has stopped after a day or very much slowed down temp change may have caused this? Would putting a heat blanket on the bottom restart it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14022" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T12:10:46.893" Title="my beer has stopped fermenting" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12392" CreationDate="2016-08-24T22:29:58.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please forgive me for bumping an old thread and not providing a clear and concise answer.  I have completed 4 pumpkin ales now with varying degrees of foam.   Certainly refrigerating for 24 hours helps, which points to carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did notice, however, that during my boil, the pumpkin proteins (or gunk?) that are in the wort seem to stick at the top and not get carried under with the rest of the boil.   I was thinking that perhaps someone who has some experience with what exactly is in pumpkin (vegetables?) that might contribute to excessive foaming when it comes to pumpkin brews specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this should be it's own question, if so, please advise and I will delete/repost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yours,&#xA;Jeff&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13332" LastEditorUserId="13332" LastEditDate="2016-09-06T14:57:58.687" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T14:57:58.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12233" CreationDate="2016-08-25T02:41:50.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to start small, BeerCraftr has a Beginner's Guide for 1 gallon brewing and focuses on getting started with minimal equipment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beercraftr.com/learn-to-brew-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.beercraftr.com/learn-to-brew-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14040" LastEditorUserId="14040" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T18:56:40.910" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T18:56:40.910" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-08-25T02:41:50.240" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18224" CreationDate="2016-08-25T03:40:29.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That might help if the temp has dropped below the recommended range for the yeast. Agitating the fermenter might also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T03:40:29.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18221" CreationDate="2016-08-25T07:03:47.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would prefered to write a comment, however i have not enought reputation yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As has been said, that yeast is dead, so it will not ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, some people around internet talks about using this dead yeast as yeast nutrient (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=15233.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;). However some say it could add unwanted flavours due to the autolisys (no idea about the theory at this point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, I have tryed it adding a spoon into the boil. Do not detected neither, bad flavour or better fermentation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13907" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T07:03:47.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18224" CreationDate="2016-08-25T12:10:46.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How are you determining that your fermentation has stopped?  If you are using the airlock activity please note that you cannot rely on that to tell if fermentation is taking place.  Although, if it is full of krausen, or has blown across the room, you can take that as &lt;em&gt;things are going well&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking gravity readings is the only way to be sure that the yeast are doing their job.  What is today's gravity vs your starting gravity?  Also note that some yeast / wort combinations will do 80% of their fermentation in the first 24 hours then use the rest of the week to slowly settle into a final finished state.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you cold crashed your ale to somewhere in the 50's (F) or lower, I would just let it go, and start checking gravity in a week or so.  RDWHAHB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13945" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T12:10:46.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18231" CreationDate="2016-08-25T14:56:47.843" Score="2" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at a few Märzen recipes, particularly an Avery Kaiser clone. However, I'm not set up to lager—I'm aware of a number of the work arounds to lagering without a refrigerator, e.g., a fan, a bucket, and a towel meet in the swamp... &lt;em&gt;wha?&lt;/em&gt; or let's build a swamp cooler. I'm not building a swamp cooler and running it for a month, much less four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I sub'd an Ale yeast, any recommendations to get near the target flavors? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there a malty style in the Germanic tradition that could be as good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3467" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T21:28:43.017" Title="Yeast recommendations for a Märzen without lagering" Tags="|yeast|beer-styles|lagering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18230" CreationDate="2016-08-25T19:07:32.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use a Cream Ale yeast, it's actually a blend of lager and ale yeast but ferments well at 65°-70°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically cream ales were made to compete with crisp American lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many use California yeast (White Labs WL001) or similar for October style beers as it's about the cleanest of ale yeasts and has minimal esters when you use a larger than normal pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you rack your Marzen on top the trub from a beer that used California Ale yeast. You will have almost no growth phase and almost zero esters, giving a very clean fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="3467" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T21:28:43.017" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T21:28:43.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13400" CreationDate="2016-08-26T13:14:41.110" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't use the sulphite if you want to distill because there is a chance to get bad smell into the distillate. If you want to protect your wine or beer from lactic bacterium you can use antibiotics: amoxicillin or doxycycline. Don't worry, it will not get into your distillate. The best defense from wild yeast is to make right start for your bread yeast. The best defense from acetic acid bacteria is to distill in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14007" LastEditorUserId="14007" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T12:16:59.017" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T12:16:59.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T16:26:18.863" Score="5" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of converting my house from LP to NG and I'd like to have the plumbers run a drop for inside and outside by garage for my burner. Has anyone converted their LP burners to NG?  What should I be considering when setting this up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have a KAB6 bayou classic.  I have read the Brulosophy article on how he converted his KAB4 to use NG. &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2014/05/12/propane-to-natural-gas-conversion-best-investment-ive-made/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2014/05/12/propane-to-natural-gas-conversion-best-investment-ive-made/&lt;/a&gt;  He used a simple turn valve regulator because his plumber said he had a lot of pressure coming into the house so he'd never have to worry about too low of pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think using an actual pressure regulator with a diaphragm and spring mechanism would be a safer investment in case my furnace kicks on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I am having the city run my NG piping and a plumber is coming out to install the lines inside the house so I don't know my gas pressure at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13126" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-11-30T16:04:03.533" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T16:04:03.533" Title="Converting a burner over to NG" Tags="|boil-equipment|burner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18233" CreationDate="2016-08-26T18:56:59.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference in LP and NG burners is the jet. Propane use a very small small jet compared to NG. The propane jet can be drilled out to the size of the NG very easily.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Hl15-Zk5pmc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/Hl15-Zk5pmc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Propane burners run from 10-30 PSI, NG is only around 2 PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would definitely get an adjustable regulator. This gives you stable psi and gas adjustments all in one unit or a ball valve can be added to each burner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If running 2-3 100k btu burners you may find that you need a .75-1 inch main line to keep them all going at once. Basically need to have .25 diameter per 100k btu per 100ft, but no less than 3/8&quot;. 1&quot; pipe seems to feed a 400k btu pool heater 100ft from meter pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T18:56:59.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18238" CreationDate="2016-08-27T01:06:17.970" Score="2" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;A local brewery has a Scottish ale that I love which had a really interesting, though subtle, grape flavor (somewhere between Concord grape and artificial grape). I'm fairly certain I've noticed the same flavor in other beers of theirs, especially lighter ones, so I'm guessing it's an ester from a house yeast strain, possibly in combination with their water chemistry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a yeast or malt or combination of the two that is known to produce this kind of flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T14:24:58.033" Title="Grape-like flavors in beer" Tags="|flavor|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-27T13:49:27.170" Score="0" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gday! :) So i have just purchased the coopers real ale malt concentrate as well as a kilo of light malt. I started with 2 litre's of boiled water in my fermentor (after sanitising it with no rinse sanitiser) and added the coopers extract as well as the malt. gave a good stir. I then added filtered cold water to the 20 litre mark and then added boiled water and cold filtered water until i got to 23 litres and the desired temperature range of 28 degrees Celsius. I then added the brewing yeast at 28 degrees. My first question is. Was this too hot too add the yeast and have i shocked/killed it? secondly it only came with 7 grams of yeast, Is this enough for 23 litres of wort? The yeast seemed to disappear when i added it and a yeast'y smell was present. Another question i have is because the fermentor is in my garage, in a few hours it has dropped temperature slowly to around 24-26. So i now have put it in the kitchen hopefully keeping it at that temp. What temp will the yeast stop working? Also with the fermentor valve. I put just filtered water inside it. It wasn't sure if i used no rinse sanitised water or not. Thanks for the help!!!! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14046" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T15:40:27.237" Title="Not enough yeast for a 20 Litre batch?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|first-time-brewer|temperature-control|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18235" CreationDate="2016-08-27T14:15:42.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Methyl Anthranilate&lt;/strong&gt; is the compound that makes a grape flavor, it's found naturally in grapes and can be produced by some bacteria. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im not aware of any yeast that produce Methyl anthranilate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not uncommon for brewers to use grapes in beer there are many commercial examples. Midas Touch etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've perceived this flavor in beers that use the red grains for an Irish red for example, but not always. Seems to happen a lot with Munich.&#xA;It could be the brewing process makes this compound as it's building blocks could be found in ingredients and waters.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/lolclWtn0Xk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/lolclWtn0Xk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T14:24:58.033" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T14:24:58.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18237" CreationDate="2016-08-27T15:40:27.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;28°C is not too hot to add yeast; yeast is fine up to somewhere near 40°C.  That being said, you do want to add the yeast as close to your fermentation temperature as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7 grams of yeast is enough for 23L.  In the future, however, consider rehydrating your yeast in warm (35°C) water for 15 minutes or so. That will let them come back to life in a simpler environment, so you'll have more healthy cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;24-26 is actually a bit warmer than you'd like for most ales. Somewhere around 18-20 would be ideal. The yeast won't stop working until some very high temperature you will not reach, but a warmer ferment will cause them to produce flavor compounds that are not necessarily desirable. It won't produce undrinkable beer, but it won't be great, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water in the airlock is perfectly fine. Some people use sanitizer, some people use vodka, some people don't use airlocks at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T15:40:27.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18241" CreationDate="2016-08-28T14:35:15.497" Score="1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought about adding whisky/bourbon/rum/brandy to one of my future porters or stouts. I was thinking about evaporating the alcohol from it first in order to prevent unnecessary ABV increase via heating the spirit to 80C for approx. 2 hours. I have a few doubts regarding this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it even make sense to do so? Will the spirit's taste and aroma be noticeable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, how much should I add? I was thinking somewhere between 0,25 and 0,5 litre for a 10 litre batch, but that's just a wild guess based on zero information from anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has tried doing that, I'd be grateful for any insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14050" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T17:22:55.970" Title="Spirit w/ evaporaed alcohol as a beer flavouring addition" Tags="|beer|liquor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18240" CreationDate="2016-08-29T10:56:40.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ars.usda.gov/ARSUserFiles/80400525/Data/retn/retn06.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this USDA document&lt;/a&gt;, simmering the booze for 2.5 hours removes 95% of the alcohol content, although there are probably gentler ways to remove the alcohol which would preserve more of the aromatics. Larger surface areas will take less time at the same temperature, so possibly a lower temperature and larger surface area would preserve more aromatic compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FBtT5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FBtT5.png&quot; alt=&quot;USDA Retention Factors Clip&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given a known ABV of the spirits, it may be possible to do a before and after hydrometer reading to see how much alcohol remains after certain amounts of time at room temperature or raised temperatures. But since both water an alcohol would be evaporating, this would require some calculations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the quantity to use, the tiny test batch approach is always helpful.  This involves adding very small amounts to a single glass of the base beer (often with a medicine dropper).  For instance, have 2oz of the base beer in 6 cups, add one drop to the first, two to the second, four to the third, etc, until you add 32 to the 6th.  Then several people try to discern the minimum threshold of detection, which is usually a good starting point for your target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T17:22:55.970" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T17:22:55.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-29T12:29:01.413" Score="1" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yqOcg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yqOcg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2 days ago&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YFj2A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YFj2A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Now&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, so around month ago I made a saison with some mixed frozen strawberries (1 week in the freezer) added to the primary fermentation (fermented with S.Cerevisiae strain). After three weeks I've transferred the beer for the secondary fermentation. After a week the beer got covered by white coating with weird white &quot;dots&quot; arriving in groups of few (as seen on 1st picture). I'd say it looks a bit like Pediococcus, but I have not seen those dots in any P. contamination on the internet. Do you guys have an idea what is this weird thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14053" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:43:48.663" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:43:48.663" Title="What kind of contamination shows a white film with dots in secondary?" Tags="|beer|fruit|contamination|saison|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10708" CreationDate="2016-08-29T12:46:27.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The choice of brewing method depends largely on the disposition of the brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the brewer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;desire a hobby, or just to have beer on hand?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;desire a fine level of control in the finished product?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wish to limit investment in equipment?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wish to limit time spent on brewing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choices, starting from simplest, include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No-boil (just add yeast to packaged wort) (i.e. FestaBrew)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hopped Extract (add to boiling water)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extract (add to boiling water and also add hops during the boil)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brew in Bag (less equipment version of all-grain)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All-grain (using a mash vessel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you are serving a community, it would be advisable to just give them what they want.  For instance, in a place where there is a high level of taxation, there may be those who don't desire a hobby, but only to have good beer on tap.  In this case, no-boil might be appropriate, since that requires very little equipment, has shown to yield consistent results, requires minimal expertise (but at the expense of controlling the final product).  Alternatively, if there is a DIY culture in the community, offering ways for your customers to express themselves through creative recipes and techniques might be advisable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T12:46:27.230" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-08-29T12:46:27.230" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-29T14:35:17.567" Score="0" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just ordered the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0089PN8UM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How To Disappear Completely Imperial Stout&lt;/a&gt; kit from Boomchugalug on Amazon.  I am excited so start this one up.  It takes a long time but the idea of making my own imperial stout is very exciting to me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will only be my third brew, my others were much quicker.  I have only done a Double IPA and a Coffee Porter, both were LME kits like this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have read that many people try not to use the mail order yeast that comes with these kits because it could have gotten damaged waiting on the doorstep or in the truck.  And there was a comment on the yeast being used may not have had the length of life to fully ferment all the sugars in this big burly stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to got from chilled wort right into a glass carboy for the duration of its fermentation.  I just got a blow off tube that I plan to use on this brew just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am concerned about using Safale-5 yeast (which is what I expect to see when the package arrives).  &lt;strong&gt;Should I use a little extra?  Perhaps there is a better product to use?&lt;/strong&gt;  The first taste is at 12 weeks, so I don't want this to go bad.  I bought an extra carboy just for this one.  It will be a nice winter stash if it goes well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be bottle carbonating these after so I need to be sure there is at least enough active yeast at the end to properly, if not slowly carbonate the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help and happy brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14000" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T14:49:21.323" Title="Yeast Question For Imperial Stout Kit With LME" Tags="|yeast|stout|imperial|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18244" CreationDate="2016-08-29T14:49:21.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry yeast is relatively tolerant of mishandling. An 11g packet should be enough to handle an impy stout, especially if you rehydrate the yeast properly before pitching. If you're worried, get a a second packet of US-05; it's very hard to over-pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other concerns you'll have with a high-gravity beer are oxygenation, yeast nutrients and fermentation temperature control. I'd focus on those before worrying about yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T14:49:21.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-29T16:18:52.783" Score="3" ViewCount="1932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading brulosophy a lot recently and I'm amazed they've not done a BIAB (brew in a bag) vs mash tun test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me there's still a question over whether BIAB can ever fully achieve the wonders of a full mash tun system.  But i've never read anywhere where someone has compared side by side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also; Given the grainfather and Braumeister are effectively BIAB, it seems to me any issues are resolved these days.  (I've never heard bad things about those two systems!?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3455" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T13:55:52.037" Title="BIAB vs mash tun taste test" Tags="|biab|mash-tun|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18246" CreationDate="2016-08-29T18:15:34.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be interesting as a comparision on efficiency and ease of brewday. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the final beer. You can achieve the same results in the quality of beer with both methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mash tun has a lot of advantages, mainly larger batch volume, less lifting, better rinse etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BIAB can get amazing efficiency, mainly because you can mill grain really fine that would stick a sparge using a common false bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're correct new single kettle systems have addesses most of the BIAB limitations. Like step mashs, RIS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T23:35:31.257" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T23:35:31.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18242" CreationDate="2016-08-29T23:42:43.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say what is making the pellicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as for your white dots, they are too uniform for an organic IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say they are &lt;strong&gt;just co2 bubbles&lt;/strong&gt; trapped under the pellicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T23:42:43.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-30T14:29:30.027" Score="2" ViewCount="5022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to make some carbonated beverages, and I purchases some flip top bottles. I'm also looking into &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01K4GGYT0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;adapting&lt;/a&gt; CO2 with a pressure regulator to carbonate the beverages. From what I've seen I can readily find CO2 fittings for a plastic soda bottle for carbonation, but I'm also looking for a fitting so I can carbonate the flip top glass bottles. I know that there is some danger with the glass bottle exploding, but I figured that if I only fill the bottles to 30 psi, I can minimize the danger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2609" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T14:45:08.723" Title="What fitting do I need to carbonate a glass flip top bottle" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|co2|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18250" CreationDate="2016-08-31T00:44:30.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only seen the ones for plastic bottles. You usually squeeze the bottle a bit, then fill it, then screw on the co2 valve (while still squeezing). You can stop squeezing once the valve is in place. Then you pump co2 in. Naturally, the bottle expands, and that gives you a good idea whether you should put in more or not. Clearly, this does not work for glass bottles, and you may get no warning on how much is in them and how much they can still take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also the accepted answer of &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3888/do-some-beers-really-require-special-bottles-due-to-pressure&quot;&gt;Do some beers really require special bottles due to pressure?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T00:44:30.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18250" CreationDate="2016-08-31T10:40:11.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you ask for does kind of exist actually. You can use a counter pressure bottle filler to inject only CO2 into a bottle. It's sealed by a cork. I do not know the max PSI on the cork. But you should note, I have seen several videos where people use soda stream bottle carbonators with flat beer and they do not get a good result. Not enough CO2 dissolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Brand-New-Stainless-Steel-Counter-Pressure-Beer-Bottle-Filler-Home-Brew-CO2-beer-brewing-Beer-Bottle/32388889620.html?spm=2114.40010408.3.52.gFjLLo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Counter Pressure Bottle Filler with Cork&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You normally would carbonate in a keg and then use a counter pressure bottle filler to fill your bottles with well carbonated beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easiest way is to do bottle-conditioning. It only takes about 5 days. You could use pre-measured sugar drops for this to get done fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side Note: Champagne bottles are designed to take a lot of pressure. I think 70-90 PSI. There are small ones available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13754" LastEditorDisplayName="user8292" LastEditDate="2017-07-10T14:45:08.723" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T14:45:08.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18255" CreationDate="2016-08-31T12:20:49.700" Score="6" ViewCount="2646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some issues with siphoning last night, so it took about an hour to rack from the carboy to bottling bucket. Should I be worried about oxidation? Both containers were open that entire time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T15:17:46.540" Title="Oxidation during bottling" Tags="|bottling|oxidation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18253" CreationDate="2016-08-31T12:58:35.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have issues. Taste your beer every week to see how the flavor is developing and keep notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently had to dump a bunch of bottles that had become oxidized when I racked to the bottling bucket. I too had siphoning troubles and many air bubbles began traveling through the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the beer aged over the next 4 weeks the smell was always good, but the taste was more and more nutty and &quot;damp&quot;. 6 weeks in and the taste wasn't improving, nor was it very good (to me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the flavor is good, then I wouldn't be concerned about it, but it might not last as long in storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13302" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T12:58:35.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18253" CreationDate="2016-08-31T14:31:19.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really shouldn't be an issue for oxidation. I wouldn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When racked properly only the surface area is exposed. At worse maybe the last couple bottles may have an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is really at more risk of an airborne infection than oxidation in this limited time even at an hour as you said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Couple tips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxidation manifests as a cardboard or wet paper aroma and flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxidation only happens when there is alcohol exposed to oxygen. So it's only a concern at later stages of fermentation, racking to secondary, bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have a good siphon. Eliminate bubble traps in the line, and get them pushed out asap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't splash. Make sure the line is well submerged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use oxygen absorbing bottle caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxygen exposure can be completely eliminated by proper kegging methods, using purged vessels replacing air with co2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2016-09-07T19:01:08.763" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T19:01:08.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3724" CreationDate="2016-08-31T21:05:14.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a dishwashing detergent called Lemshine and some powder bleach.... Takes 24 hrs.  But  the labels will wipe off with an old rag.....1/2 cup  Lemshine vs. 1/4 powder bleach&#xA;Put 2 bottles in a 5 gal. Bucket.  Add chemicals and fill both bottle and bucket with hot water..... Take outside!!!!!&#xA; Next day wipe labels  enhance with Goo Gone&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14060" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T21:05:14.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9579" CreationDate="2016-09-01T09:33:20.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not an answer to the question but an important safety comment, to the chap who adds vinegar to bleach. That is how chlorine is made. Chlorine is the first gas used as a poison gas in WW1. Please dont do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14061" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T09:33:20.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18246" CreationDate="2016-09-01T13:01:15.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your over whether 'BIAB can achieve the wonders of a mash tun brewing' is only commonly understood as well as questions like 'do I need a starter'? or 'Can I possibly make beer without pure oxygen aeration?'  (The answer being: If it works for you then that is your answer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mash tun, or BIAB, or partial mash (or even extract), question is not if one method or another is 'better' or worse objectively, the question to ask is Can Brewer A make beer of the same caliber as Brewer B using whatever method they see fit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also remember two brewers trying to make the same beer, even with the &lt;strong&gt;same&lt;/strong&gt; equipment might make beer with noticeable differences.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both methods have positives and negatives when you compare, but mash tuns and BIAB both make delicious beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13945" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T13:01:15.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17528" CreationDate="2016-09-01T14:55:19.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use flavoring ingredients like herbs and berries during the initial steep. We don't add anything after the fermentation. We use mint in one of our recipes, and it works well. The advice I would give you is that some ingredients can hamper bacterial growth (for example, we've found that ginger can slow down the fermentation a bit, and rosemary as well) and some change flavor during fermentation (e.g. hibiscus turns very bitter, but rosebuds turn more fruity). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've not had any issues with oils going rancid in the SCOBY as witek suggests, but we also pull our SCOBY every batch and only use rich starter. When we were brewing in small batches, however, we would use our SCOBY for 3 brews or so, and didn't see that effect then either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14062" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-09-07T19:04:43.430" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T19:04:43.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-02T23:46:43.787" Score="3" ViewCount="2184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have started my first ginger bug and so far, not so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed the recipe from &lt;a href=&quot;http://wellnessmama.com/8942/ginger-bug/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Wellness Mama - Ginger Bug&quot;&gt;Wellness Mama&lt;/a&gt; but I'll explain what I personally did to see if I made a mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I boiled a pot of water and soaked a mason jar in it. I then boiled another pot of water and put that aside to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought some fresh organic ginger root and tried using a cheese grater. It got mushy so I sliced up the rest of what I needed. I tried to make it small chunks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the water was fairly cool (cozy enough for bacteria) I tossed in the ginger, granulated white sugar, and the water. I assumed boiling would get rid of the chlorine etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mixed with a wooden spoon and re-attached the mason lid with a coffee filter instead of the metal top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kept the rest of the ginger (I bought waaaay too much) in the fridge, as I figured the bacteria would likely live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Daily I took some out, cut it up, added 1 tablespoon of ginger and white granulated sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few days I started keeping it behind my PS4 as it is on almost all day, and it puts off a good amount of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been a week now and I have this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/photos/49YbKuhJm7uHgn1k9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;My Ginger Bug&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest my daughter was topping it up daily and insisted it was &quot;all fizzy&quot; but when I investigated it myself I found it lackluster. I might have had a thin white bubbly film around the edge... But nothing I would call fizzy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what &quot;yeasty&quot; is supposed to smell like... But it smells fairly sweet, like a lemonade. Today there is actually a mild pungi-ness... If that's good, or even a thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could I have done to get better results? Should I start over, should I keep going?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks so much for the input!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14065" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T01:01:52.667" Title="Save my Ginger Bug!" Tags="|ginger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18262" CreationDate="2016-09-03T00:20:48.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was &quot;fizzy&quot; but not now that is on par with other starters, and sounds normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If by taste you don't have the residual sweetness from the sugars then the &quot;bug&quot; has grown and consumed the sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, then your starter is ready to inoculate your sodas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T00:20:48.573" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15058" CreationDate="2016-09-04T12:39:59.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time helps increase the amount of CO2 in the beer, but how much is a matter of many factors. FG, temp, and pressure all effect this. Once you achieve a constant temp, the pressure will still not be a constant until the beer has absorbed all that it can either. All of this makes the equation something quite difficult to come up with. In a keg, a week at a constant 10psi takes about a week in the mid to high 30s Fahrenheit. Of course your bottle beer is already being supplied CO2 at an even higher pressure while warm, which should come close to balancing out the absorbed CO2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14068" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T12:39:59.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18271" CreationDate="2016-09-05T09:24:56.180" Score="3" ViewCount="431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used bottles few times to bottle home beer. Recently I've found that inside them there are small spots that remain there even if I rinse them with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I worry about them? It's safe to put new beer into such bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not safe what is good option to clean those?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="717" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T19:39:40.117" Title="How to clean bottles used for homebrewing few times?" Tags="|yeast|sanitation|cleaning|bottles|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18265" CreationDate="2016-09-05T13:40:05.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally I'd always rinse bottles after they are finished, or at least at the end of the night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try a bottle brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the kind of bottle, you can put it in the dishwasher. Works for e.g, Grolsch swingtop bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't get the spots out, then the beer probably will not get them out either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T13:40:05.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25197" CreationDate="2016-09-05T15:21:26.640" Score="5" ViewCount="8486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked about 20 5 gal buckets of grapes and will see little white spiders, earwigs, dust, crushed dry grape leaves, little stems, etc in with the clusters.  Is it recommended to hose these down gently before putting them through the crusher?  Is it important to let them dry off before putting them through the crusher?  The hose water is potable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastActivityDate="2022-06-04T09:34:09.343" Title="Should I rinse my grapes before crushing?" Tags="|wine|crush|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18265" CreationDate="2016-09-05T19:20:36.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use bleach-and-water for sanitizing.  I always have a bucket of about 30 litres of bleach-and-water sitting on my brewing counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a month or two, I make myself a new bucket of sanitizer.  Instead of dumping out the old sanitizer, I transfer it to another bucket and use it for bottle cleaning.  Most bottles don't need any cleaning (just a rinse), but for the ones that do, I just fill them with this old sanitizer and leave them for a week or two.  They usually end up perfectly clean after this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T19:20:36.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18269" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-05T23:32:09.370" Score="1" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fiancee and I have taken the massive undertaking of brewing as much beer for our wedding as we can, and it's been a really fun project- thus far. We've brewed numerous batches successfully, yet our most recent batches have caused us a lot of frustration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We made some delicious pumpkin ales, and stored them in a rubber container, and after a few weeks they started exploding. We were actually moving from one apartment to another, and I guess the commotion built up some pressure in the bottles. In any case, our bottles that had been quiet for 6 weeks started exploding- 1 by 1- 5 of them over the course of as many hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We cleaned off the surviving bottles, refrigerated them until they calmed down, and waited a day or two before attempting to degas them. I assume that with all the sediment that we lost in the secondary (aprx. 1 gallon), the standard 5 ounces of priming sugar from our kit was too much for our reduced volume beer. Anyways, I degassed the bottles, (easing out excess gas, then tightening again), and thought the problem was solved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then put the old pumpkin beers in a 3 month old bin of octoberfests that had never had a problem. Another pumpkin beer had exploded, covering my Octoberfests. I stupidly waited 48 hours since I was so exhausted from all the other chores of moving, before cleaning up the mess in the rubber container. After rinsing off the surviving pumpkin ales, and the octoberfests, I realized that the caps (custom made- grog tag.com) were beginning to show a bit of rust. Right after finishing cleaning the old bottles, an Octoberfest exploded into oblivion 6 feet away from me. Fortunately, I was fine.... But now I'm trying to figure out how this pumpkin ale chaos has affected my perfectly fine Octoberfests... I assume that my caps had corroded, and in the 48 hours I left them untouched, an infection ocurred that built up the pressure in the Octoberfests. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's like a zombie appocolypse- my bad beers are now affecting my good ones! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) What are your thoughts on my theory about the original cause of the exploding? Using 5 ounces of sugar on 4 gallons of beer before bottling (again, this is due to the reduced volume from the high sediment). Should I use less sugar for the reduced volume? Should I add water to the beer to bring it up to 5 gallons again? For the record, we used the hydrometer and confirmed fermentation was done before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) Are the octoberfests exploding from the pressure increasing in the storage container as they explode one by one? Or are the octoberfests exploding from infection due to rusted caps? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I created an account here moments after this debacle occured with the octoberfests, and before finishing this post- another exploded in the container. I think I'm tossing this whole batch, for safety. But I don't want this to happen again. Beware of zombies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14074" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T13:35:40.677" Title="Bottle Bomb Mayhem" Tags="|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18269" CreationDate="2016-09-06T11:28:46.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do need to be more careful about the sugar to beer ratio.  I would think that could be a big part of the issue.  However, if some of your oktoberfest beers are starting to go too then I suspect your fermentation was not as complete as you think.  And even more realistic is that you have gotten a microbial contamination that has started to ferment out some of the non-fermentables in the the beers.  They are overcarbonating due to that reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing how its happening in two different batches, two different recipes; I'd suspect that's the real issue here.  I don't think the rusted caps are the issue.  They are exploding which means they are holding pressure.  A contaminant would not be getting in there with sealed caps. The contamination happened somewhere in your process. (Or despite your measurements the beers were not truly done fermenting. see my comment on your question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T11:28:46.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18265" CreationDate="2016-09-06T11:37:50.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An overnight soak in PBW or oxyclean always works well for freeing up beerstone and other deposits for me.  The soak should start with the warmest tap water you can get.  PBW is more expensive but I think it works better and the two are not equal when it comes to the tough stuff to get off, IMO.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is still stuff stuck to the bottles and I am really hard up for bottles I'll have the bottle brush at the ready while the bottles are still wet after the soak.  At that point if stuff still doesn't come out toss the bottle.  Its not a guarantee to be unsafe, but bad beer, or overcarbed beer or exploding bottles isn't worth the cost of a few new bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T11:37:50.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18269" CreationDate="2016-09-06T13:35:40.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 25% increase in priming sugar really shouldn't do this. 5oz corn sugar in 4 gallons will put 3.2 volumes of c02. 4oz = 2.8 volumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.2 volumes is within tolerance of a normal bottle. But most commercial beers will use a thicker champagne style bottle when more than 3 volumes are expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its possible there was been more fermentables available to the yeast than ecpected from under attenuation in fermentation. However usually if this is the case the yeast has given up already and priming takes a long time if it even happens at all even with easily fermentable corn sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more likely senerio is that a wild yeast was introduced at bottling. Wild yeasts will consume sugars that brewer yeasts usually ignore so they will produce more carbonation. Usually the culprit for gusher infections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the rusted caps. The inner liner should be ok and not effect the beer. You may be able like you said to get them very cold and try to degas and recap them. But is obviously risky if they are exploding. Use your own discretion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T13:35:40.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11983" CreationDate="2016-09-06T19:04:59.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way is indeed to wait until the fermentation is completely over. When you measure the same (low) gravity for 2-3 days in a row this is the case. The also allows for the yeast to clean up the by-products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom of your fermentation vessel will have a bottom of yeast, but normally there is still (much more than) enough yeast in suspension to make the bottle conditioning. You just have to calculate the priming sugar quantity with an online calculator (like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aussiehomebrewing.com/AlcoholChart/PrimingCalculator.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.aussiehomebrewing.com/AlcoholChart/PrimingCalculator.html&lt;/a&gt;) or use sugar drops in the bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this was helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raf&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14077" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T19:04:59.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18265" CreationDate="2016-09-06T19:39:40.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleaning involves removing the stuff you can see. As others have mentioned, a good bottle brush is the most common tool. I've also had success using a water pick (dental hygiene tool) to remove stubborn spots the bottle brush didn't get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next you need to Sanitize which kills most organisms. It is not usually necessary to Sterilize which removes all organisms. Star San is the most common sanitizer. Be sure to follow the directions at this step as carelessness can result in a lost batch. There are numerous resources on Google and YouTube if you're new to the hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T19:39:40.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18253" CreationDate="2016-09-07T13:09:04.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may surprise some readers to learn that I pour my beer from primary to secondary fermentation vessel and then (some days later) pour it back to mix in the priming sugar. I then use a &quot;open&quot; siphon with a manual tap at the end to transfer the beer into the bottles. So lots of chance for contamination and &quot;oxygenation&quot;. I have done this for several years and with over a thousand litres in many beer styles. I bottle condition the beer for up to 18 months. So I am usually able to check on the progress of the brews for some time. I have not yet found any &quot;wet cardboard&quot; or &quot;buttery flavour&quot; or &quot;damp nuts&quot; or any other &quot;off flavour&quot; in the resulting beers. Yes, &quot;touch wood&quot; indeed! See this link about &quot;Pour beer&quot; for photos of this outlandish technique:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&amp;amp;t=51306&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pour Beer!&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has caused concern for some brewers who swear that my beer must be bad or taste off or that I only do this to provoke a reaction. But actually I pour the beer in open air because it is quick and simple. It also &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; to help the beer clear and by degassing it before bottling it is easier to bottle (less foaming over).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't make this post to tell everyone to follow my example (although please feel free...). I merely make this point to say that &quot;oxygenation&quot; is not (always) the monster it is made out to be and that beer in its natural and unfiltered state is a relatively stable compound. Yes, it can spoil but not usually without some effort and small &quot;mistakes&quot; in handling or exposure to air do not render the brew instantly useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other have said - see how it tastes. If you like it - success!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T15:17:46.540" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T15:17:46.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18267" CreationDate="2016-09-07T13:24:50.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know wikihow.com says to rinse. However, the general consensus within the home winemaking community is that washing the grapes will water down the flavor. This is from many posts I've read on winemakingtalk.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14080" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T13:24:50.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18267" CreationDate="2016-09-07T13:38:50.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why risk contamination? You spend so much on supplies and grapes are a natural product.  There can be all sorts of things hidden on them that could destroy your end product.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14000" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T13:38:50.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-07T13:39:43.687" Score="5" ViewCount="6326" Body="&lt;p&gt;So Im looking in to starting some one gallon recipes. 5 gallons is just way too much for me. Is it absolutely necessary to get a 1 gal jug or can I just use my 5 gal?&#xA;I suspect the fermentation process needs the pressure presented for a similarly sized jug but just wanted to check. Im on a tight budget and I would rather be buying ingredients instead of jugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, should I look for 1 gallon buckets as well for racking in to my secondary or is it just more common to stay in one jug through the whole process when dealing with 1 gal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: This is for beer brewing but none the less you answered my questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13955" LastEditorUserId="13956" LastEditDate="2016-09-07T19:00:55.857" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T10:58:26.467" Title="Noob question here about 1 gallon to 5 gallon brewing" Tags="|fermentation|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18267" CreationDate="2016-09-07T13:52:29.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One can wash the grapes to remove &quot;detritus from the field&quot; but it is not really necessary unless the grapes are horribly soiled - and then one might ask why one is making wine from them anyway! But it is possible to wash grapes and if one does it is also a good idea to let them dry as far as is possible to reduce extraneous liquid diluting the must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In normal situations the skin of the grapes contains natural yeast that is used to ferment the must. So washing the skins &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; also require extra yeast to be added to the must to get it fermenting vigorously from the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grapes used in commercial presses have a reasonable amount of detritus with them and no effort is usually made to wash grapes for commercial brewing. They often go directly from tractor-trailer to wine press and the only &quot;cleaning&quot; is done by filtering at a much later stage. Traditionally grapes were pressed under foot in a tread press and one might imagine that process added quite a lot of extra bits to the must. But the wine still turned out well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T13:52:29.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18278" CreationDate="2016-09-07T14:23:28.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the question about beer or wine (or another ferment)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is perfectly possible to brew 1 gallon of liquor in a 5 gallon container. The main concern is the air over the brew which, some might say, causes &quot;oxidation&quot; and thus produce off flavours in the brew. If the fermentation was started vigorously (active yeast made into a starter solution) then the CO2 being produced should quickly blanket the surface of the fermenting liquid and that would act as an reasonably effective oxygen barrier. I personally ferment beer in a 50lt pastic tub with the lid clipped on but just lifted in one place to allow pressure to escape. There must be 8-10 litres of air over the brew (and no airlock) but I have experienced no bad effects so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know fermentation does not need any &quot;back pressure&quot; - most fermentation is carried out at or just above atmospheric pressure (via a bubble trap). Allowing pressure to build up during primary fermentation is usually regarded as a bad or even dangerous thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking wine or beer off the trub/yeast/detritus is a reasonable thing to do and is said to improve the flavour (less yeasty taste, they say) and it may also help the brew clear down (&quot;drop bright&quot;) but is done at the brewers discretion. There is no &lt;em&gt;absolute&lt;/em&gt; need to rack the brew into a second container, it is done only to improve clarity and taste. If your brew is clear and tastes good in the primary vessel then there's no need to do it.  If one decides to rack off the brew then a container than can be mostly filled may be a better option to one that can be partly filled or one that leaves a large air volume above the brew. IMHO as both beer and wine can be brewed &quot;in air&quot; the presence of air in itself need not be overly worrying in a closed container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above is, of course, opinion. The best thing to do is try a brew and see. Start with what you have and if that works - success \o/. If not then try the smaller jugs or scale up the production process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T14:23:28.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18278" CreationDate="2016-09-07T14:26:07.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't ferment 1 gallon in a 5 gallon carboy/jug. While head space is needed this will be too much and open the possibility of aerobic bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For small batch definitely get some 1 gallon glass jugs. Buy some cheap wines that's in glass 1 gallon jugs and make some sangria or something and keep the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible to use one jug for fermentation and serving if you can catch it at the right gravity before sealing for carbonation or add sugar when it's at terminal gravity. Serving does stir up the trub though. A little better process that's cheap is to just put the fermented beer from the 1 gallon into two 2-liter plastic soda bottles for conditioning and serving. For that matter you can do 1 gallon batch with four 2-liter bottles. Two for fermenting, two for conditioning. I would only use the plastic bottles for fermenting once as they are hard to clean and basically free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T14:26:07.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9974" CreationDate="2016-09-07T23:55:57.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use grain alcohol (everclear, clear springs) mixed with about 50% water to alcohol. Check daily, add alcohol and maybe a bit of h20 if its evaporating too quickly for your liking. That's what I'm doing now, but trying to find the best method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14082" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2016-09-12T07:44:47.073" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T07:44:47.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9974" CreationDate="2016-09-08T00:34:02.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always used a strong sulphite (that's sufite in Americanese ;-) solution in fermentation locks. It's dirt cheap, and generally handy around the brewery/winery. Among other things, I use it to neutralize chlorine bleaches and detergents, or any other alkaline cleanser such as Oxi-Clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T00:34:02.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18278" CreationDate="2016-09-08T10:58:26.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A smaller container is a good idea in this application for a couple reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The liquid in a one gallon container will have a smaller surface to depth ratio than one gallon in a 5 gallon container.  This slows the oxidation concerns to some extent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A smaller container requires less cleaning and sanitizing reagents than the 5 gallon container.  You still need to clean the whole container etc etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving a 5 gallon container with just 1 gallon of liquid in it will slosh around the entire contents too much.  You'll mix up the yeast and trub if you have to move the container prior to racking or something.  When moving a smaller container the liquid moves less at the surface when in a taller tighter column (relative to the 1 gallon in 5 gallon bucket).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less waste.  If you lose a pint in a 5 gallon batch when racking to avoid the trub, you'll still lose that much when doing the one gallon batch.  One pint in 5 gallons isn't a bug deal but it could be ~10-15% of a one gallon batch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no back pressure issues to be concerned with at either a 1 or 5 gallon scale.  And you shouldn't be worrying about a secondary container at either volume size unless you want to do a fruit or sugar addition post the primary ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheap way to source a smaller container is to look for large juice formats at the mega-marts.  Lastly, purchasing a 1.25 gallon jug isn't that expensive from your LHBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T10:58:26.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-08T18:23:22.537" Score="2" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I missed my mash temperature by 4 degrees a few days ago.  I was shooting for 152 but got 149.5.  Then I checked my calibration today and my Thermometer was 1.2 high.  So I mashed at around 148.3.  Its an IPA, from what I see it will just dry it out a little.  Will it change my beers taste that much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13766" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T08:44:27.333" Title="Lower mash temperature" Tags="|mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18287" CreationDate="2016-09-08T19:41:19.107" Score="1" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a big bumper pull camper that I travel around the country with.  I was thinking about a camping trip with some buddies and was considering the implications of perhaps starting a brew while we were waiting for the pork shoulder to come out of the smoker.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curious if anyone ever tried to start a brew while in the woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The camper has a full kitchen, to include a propane burner stove and an electric/propane operated fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would do this somewhere with full hookups to allow for all the waste and washing.  But I usually use water that I purchase in 2.5 gallon containers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I figure, everything should be the same as it is at home except for one big thing.  Lets say I start my brew on a Saturday.  I will only be out there for a couple more days before it is time to pack up and go home.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will need to transport my fermentor at about day two or three.  Will that be a problem?  I will probably use some sort of cooler strapped into the back seat of my truck to transport the carboy back to the house.  This should help with light and temperature fluctuations.  But it could be a couple hour drive and I am concerned with all the moving around.  The sediment should have time to settle again in my cellar once I get home, but could I oxidize the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this be too risky?  Any suggestions are welcome and feel free to shoot down my idea in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14000" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T19:59:19.693" Title="Camping and Brewing" Tags="|brewing|oxidation|transport|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18286" CreationDate="2016-09-08T19:59:19.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No problem on fermenter transport.  Fermentation will still be going so no worries about oxidation.  But I'd recommend a bucket rather than a carboy.  Unbreakable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T19:59:19.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18285" CreationDate="2016-09-08T20:00:36.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, not much change at all.  Today's malts are so high in diastatic power that mash temps make a lot less difference than they used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T20:00:36.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-08T20:15:03.020" Score="1" ViewCount="646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not new to wine making (many, many years) and have been making beer for only a few years, generally gelatin fining with bottle conditioning and having good results. Clear beer, good flavor, head, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just made a Session IPA, it started at 1.050 and finished at 1.015, within the recommended range.  After seeing some posts and videos on line, I decided to try Super Kleer vs Gelatin for fining (use it for wine with great success), on this batch of beer.  After two days very little if any change in clarity, but I have a large yeast cake (and probably SK at the bottom of the carboy).  I moved it into a refrigerator to cold crash it a bit to see if that would help, alas four days now and no real change in clarity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if I screwed something up or not, no Irish Moss or other additive used during the boil.  Vigorous boil, quick cool down, very active fermentation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone point me in the right direction, need a little help getting though this learning curve.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T22:15:15.997" Title="How long should it take for my beer to clear?" Tags="|clarity|finings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18289" CreationDate="2016-09-08T22:10:07.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most finings work in 48 hours along with a cold crash of 34-38°F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Super Kleer is a two stage fining product. Meaning two different additions at different times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming it was properly used I would review your beer recipe for adjuncts that do not clairify well. Oats, wheat, citrus oils etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still ok to use gelitan and cold crash to try to fine this batch further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T22:15:15.997" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T22:15:15.997" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18250" CreationDate="2016-09-09T14:04:46.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would &lt;em&gt;highly&lt;/em&gt; recommend &lt;em&gt;against&lt;/em&gt; pressurizing directly into glass bottles.  There's no feedback mechanism as there is with the flexibility of plastic bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have commented, beer bottles are rated somewhere around 3 volumes of CO2.  (That's roughly 45 psi - volumes * 15psi ).  Remember that's on average for the manufacturing process.  Some bottles will be weaker than that, and it's not a risk I'd be willing to take. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Champagne bottles are rated for typically 8 volumes, or 90 psi.  They are available in 375ml bottles from at least one wine-making shop on the west coast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to carb in a keg and then bottle from the keg.  The added benefit there is an even greater reduction in yeast transfer to the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3712" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T14:04:46.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18150" CreationDate="2016-09-09T14:09:16.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The higher mash-out temperature shouldn't affect anything.  Did you double check your process when you sparge?  Are your OG numbers correct?  If they're low, perhaps, you're not getting effective rinsing of your grains but are instead essentially channeling sparge water into your boil kettle.  If your OG numbers are still correct with the new method, &lt;em&gt;and you've changed no other procedure&lt;/em&gt; I'd invest in a pH meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3712" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T14:09:16.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18296" CreationDate="2016-09-09T14:49:52.057" Score="2" ViewCount="5992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my first batch of ginger beer and it was delicious—but with prominent sewer gas undertones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a simple recipe and a quick ferment: ginger, water, sugar, lemon juice, and yeast fermented on the counter out of direct sunlight for 2 days until fizzy, then into the fridge. I'm using Fleischmann's Active Dry Yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on blog posts and forums discussions, this appears to be a common problem with ginger brews. Unfortunately the discussions I've found are long on speculation and short on facts. Often people say there can be several causes, which could well be true... but it's hard to tell which are known causes and which are guesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I prevent this problem in the future, or at least make it less likely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14085" LastEditorUserId="14085" LastEditDate="2016-09-09T22:47:41.830" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T23:21:04.510" Title="How to prevent sulfur odors when brewing ginger ale / ginger beer?" Tags="|fermentation|aroma|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9604" CreationDate="2016-09-09T16:30:23.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, +1 on white spots being mold. You can dump the batch and wash the SCOBY in white vinegar to try to save it (but it's better to just dump it). FWIW, mold is caused by 2 things, but basically it's not getting your pH low enough fast enough:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enough sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enough starter / too high a pH&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want less sugar in your kombucha, let it brew longer, don't use more at the beginning. It fuels the growth of yeast and bacteria, and is consumed in the process. If you put in too little, the yeast and bacteria can't take hold, the pH doesn't drop enough, and mold forms. Also, start with a lot of starter (a couple bottles of any live, raw kombucha will work if this is your first batch, or save some of the last batch) so that there's enough bacteria and yeast to seed it, and also so that the pH is low. You want the pH on the final product to be somewhere between 2.6 (really acidic) and 3 (the high point, above this you can get mold or possibly other bad organisms like botulism). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14062" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T16:30:23.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10047" CreationDate="2016-09-09T16:34:48.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tap water's bad. Chlorine will definitely slow your initial biological processes, and increase the chances of a moldy batch. If you have pretty good tap water (or don't want to pay for bottled water), I recommend boiling it or letting it off-gas for 24 hours before using it.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen people use tap water to mix-down their brew after the steep and have it ruin batches. &lt;p&gt; There are also ingredients that (conventional or organic) have an astringent effect, which slows the fermentation. Do a little research on this, it just means you should use more starter and expect a longer brew time if using these ingredients. &lt;p&gt; And no, the fermentation process won't affect any of the chemicals or whatever in conventional foods, so if you're concerned about them, don't use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14062" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T16:34:48.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18293" CreationDate="2016-09-09T23:09:22.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sulfur / boiled egg odor is hydrogen sulfide, which is produced by yeast when stressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happens minimally in all fermentation but is usually gassed out during vigorous fermentation which you really don't have when just using yeast to carbonate. So extra attention needs to be placed on the strain and health of the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Primary cause of noticeable sulfur is poor yeast health&lt;/strong&gt; or a wild strain not well suited.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of factors that contribute to yeast health all of which have been covered in detail in other answers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using wild fermentation it may take several attempts at a ginger bug before you get one that works well. I would suggest getting a ginger bug from someone that has a successful one or just buy brewers yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Using bakers yeast is fine for many fermentation projects. I've used rapid rise for some great ciders. Trick is to have enough healthy yeast to do the job. &lt;strong&gt;So basically what you want to do is make a starter with nutrients or pitch multiple packs.&lt;/strong&gt; Because if the yeast is alowed a growth phase in the environment of a ginger ale/beer it really doesn't have the needed nutrients to multiply without stress and producing bad esters. Also if using package yeast the process should be controlled with an airlock, or you may get a wild yeast to set dominance instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-09-09T23:21:04.510" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T23:21:04.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18220" CreationDate="2016-09-10T04:23:42.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use Campden (or the purer potassium metabisulfite or sodium metabisulfite salts). Initially, we use it to kill off any potentially harmful bacteria that may have hopped a ride in with the base ingredients we use in wine making, and to discourage any wild yeast from gaining a foothold. Campden will not kill yeast, but it creates an environment inhospitable to them. As SO2 released into the must and atmosphere above the must dissipates, the environment slowly changes and the yeast can grow, but by then our cultured wine yeasts, which are more tolerant of SO2, have gotten a good start and &quot;crowd out&quot; the wild yeasts, use up all the dissolved oxygen, and consume all the fermentable sugar and nutrients. In the end, there is nothing left for the wild yeasts and they die without propagating. Adding campden tablets helps stop a wild yeast but a good yeast starter will do that. If adding it a day before you pitch your yeast makes you more comfortable, by all means do it. You won't hurt anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need to heat the juice. Boiling the must will give you pectic haze. Pectin is a complex sugar found in the cell walls of all fruits. This substance is what causes jams and jellies to thicken and has many other uses in the culinary arts. When wines are made from fresh fruit, pectin plays a valuable role in making sure that optimal flavor is extracted. However, if the pectin in the beverage is not properly eliminated during fermentation, the wine can develop a hazy or cloudy appearance as a result of the excess pectin being held in suspension in the fermented liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T04:23:42.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18299" CreationDate="2016-09-10T17:58:38.297" Score="3" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was being cheap and used empty water bottles to bottle my beer. They worked okay on my 1st batch when I used 1 carbonation drop to prime. That 1st batch didn't have quite the carbonation level I wanted when using just 1 carb drop, so I tried the 2nd batch with 1.5 carb drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2nd batch had been sitting for 2 weeks and I went in to check them. About half have lost pressure, looks like weak caps. Is it possible to pour this uncarbonated beer into new, legit bottles with more carb drops and save it? Will the addition of oxygen totally skunk the beer? Will the yeast continue to eat sugar and produce CO2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13971" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T18:29:15.573" Title="Bottles lost pressure, can I rebottle?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18298" CreationDate="2016-09-10T18:25:19.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxidation doesn't skunk beer, light does that. Oxidation gives a cardboard / wet paper aroma &amp;amp; taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxidation can be minimized by using a funnel with a tube that reaches the bottom of the bottle. If you choose to rebottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's more likely that the yeast wasn't active enough to catbonate. You can add a few grains of dry yeast in each bottle to rule this out on second attempt. See if the ones that didn't carb are sweeter than those that did, if so then it was yeast and not the seal. Don't add more sugar In those, just yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: carb drops are for a 12oz volume each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T18:29:15.573" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T18:29:15.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-11T12:54:31.433" Score="1" ViewCount="1691" Body="&lt;p&gt;My partner made Elderflower cordial with elderflower, sugar, lemon, a very small amount of cider vinegar and water about 3 months back. Last night I drank about 3/4 pint of it instead of booze as I am trying to go dry for September. This morning I feel as though I have a hangover? Can the sugar have turned to alcohol? It was ver sweet. Help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14095" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T19:35:57.567" Title="Can Elderflower cordial ever become alcoholic?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18300" CreationDate="2016-09-11T18:11:28.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I was able to find, nothing in elderflower would really stop yeast, and acidic nature might hamper them a bit, but is not enough to stop them entirely. So yes, a bit of fermentation might happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T18:11:28.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18304" CreationDate="2016-09-11T18:31:02.047" Score="4" ViewCount="3461" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a store-bought grape juice that I'm interested in&#xA;lacto-fermenting (i.e. no yeast, only bacteria, anaerobic ferment, etc) but I recently discovered Potassium Metabisulfite is added to &lt;em&gt;&quot;enhance freshness.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will potassium metabisulfite prevent me from lacto-fermenting this grape juice?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thread has given me insight into &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/958/how-much-potassium-metabisulfite-potassium-sorbate-to-stop-fermentation&quot;&gt;how much potassium metabisulfite stops fermentation&lt;/a&gt; but since the amount is determined by the manufacturer, the amount of potassium metabisulfite that stops fermentation seems like a moot point since I don't know the amount being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12410" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-11-06T20:46:54.687" Title="Will Potassium Metabisulfite prevent store-bought Grape Juice from fermenting?" Tags="|fermentation|techniques|cider|ingredients|lactobacillus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18302" CreationDate="2016-09-11T19:49:49.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potassium Metabisulfite works by depleting oxygen to inhibit aerobic growth. It doesn't &quot;kill&quot; yeast or bacteria in the short term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Potassium Metabisulfite can be defeated by adding a lot of oxygen&lt;/strong&gt;. In my experience shaking or a stirplate alone is not enough. It needs a very good dose of pure oxygen much more than what you would add to beer to get yeast started. Add oxygen every few hours until noticable fermentation starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T19:49:49.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18302" CreationDate="2016-09-11T20:43:39.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I am no expert on this topic, I did a little bit of research to help you out.  It is generally understood that in winemaking metabisulphite inhibits bacteria and yeast growth, so I would think that this could cause a problem for you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This topic has been discussed on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40177&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;winemakingtalk&lt;/a&gt; and there is a consensus near the bottom of the thread where H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) can be added, in addition to aeration of the juice.  The post specifically references section 11.2.1 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brsquared.org/wine/Articles/SO2/SO2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Improved Winemaking&lt;/a&gt; where an analysis is presented on how to neutralize SO2.  Section 15.3 specifically discusses using H2O2 and provides some example calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first step would be finding out just how much metabisulphite is actually in your juice in order to neutralize it.  Perhaps the juice provider can give you an idea, or there may be industry standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will quote the poster &quot;gordini&quot; from his post on winemakingtalk in case the forum ever disappears:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Free SO2 can be removed by adding hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) to wine.&#xA;  The use of H2O2 is considered too severe by many. Nevertheless, it&#xA;  remains one of the only real options for removing excessively high&#xA;  levels of SO2 from wine for the non-commercial winemaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Make up your solution and add it very slowly while stirring, even wait&#xA;  a few hours in between additions because more SO2 comes out of&#xA;  solution at each treatment,until an equilibrium is reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From section 15.3 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brsquared.org/wine/Articles/SO2/SO2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Improved Winemaking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Solutions of H2O2 commonly come as 3% solutions. If they are mass/mass&#xA;  solutions (this appears to be the typical case) they should contain&#xA;  about 30.3 mg/ml H2O2. If they are volume/volume solutions they should&#xA;  contain about 42.3 mg/ml H2O2. (See &quot;Information on H2O2 content&quot;&#xA;  below for more details.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So... in the following 1 mg/l is the equivalent of 1 ppm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;15 litres of wine has a free SO2 level of 70 mg/l. It is desired to&#xA;  reduce this to 40 mg/l. The reduction of 30 mg/l (70-40) requires an&#xA;  H2O2 addition of 16 mg/l (0.5304*30). Thus, the 15 litres requires an&#xA;  addition of 240 mg (15*16) of H2O2. Using a 3% mass/mass solution of&#xA;  H2O2, 7.9 ml (240/30.3) of the solution needs to be added to the 15&#xA;  litres for the drop to 40 mg/l.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this proves useful.   Investigating it has been educational for me too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;I took a stab at the math here, and, well, I hope someone will check it for me.  First, I've assumed you want to reduce your free SO2 to 0 which is probably not realistic.  To do so theoretically you would need to at 1.952L H2O2 to your 1.89 gallon of juice which, well, you won't have much juice left.  I'm not sure what the minimum amount left you want is - that would take some research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've uploaded my work  and would appreciate a review from someone just to check.  There's probably a reason people buy juice for winemaking instead of using juice with sulphites, and maybe this is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bAJwG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bAJwG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;H2O2 for K2S2O5 neutralization&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13332" LastEditorUserId="13332" LastEditDate="2016-11-06T20:46:54.687" LastActivityDate="2016-11-06T20:46:54.687" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18306" CreationDate="2016-09-12T14:41:27.403" Score="2" ViewCount="1725" Body="&lt;p&gt;Come the time of the year when apples are ready, and the excellent harvest this year in Finland, I have decided to give cider making a try. I have a fair amount of experience making beer at home and thus have been (naively) transferring some of this knowledge to cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am extremely scrupulous when it comes to cleanliness and sanitation with beer brewing, and so I'm worried about putting non-sterile apple juice to ferment, knowing that there are bacteria etc. present. You boil the beer wort before putting it to ferment, so it becomes effectively sterile when fermentation kicks in. But you do not boil the apple juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that yeast outcompetes any other microorganisms but I'm still worried about cider infections and the possible associated health risks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already tried with a small amount (4 litre demijohn) and drunk most of this cider already. It tasted good. However I'm now preparing to ferment a considerably larger amount and want to be extra careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to ask whether I am being a bit exaggerate and there are any real dangers to drinking non-sterile unpasteurized cider. I also wanted to know if there are some considerations that I should take into account, such as maximum storage time for the bottled cider and other precautions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I would like to know what are easy-to-implement procedures to sterilize the apple juice and what are their pros and cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6702" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T22:23:17.613" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T12:21:16.213" Title="Dangers of non-sterile cider" Tags="|cider|sanitation|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18305" CreationDate="2016-09-12T15:27:54.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Basically just wash the apples very well before pressing&lt;/strong&gt; and practice good sanitation during production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a desired yeast instead of chancing with wild fermentation. Few wild yeasts actually produce favorable results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once fermentation is complete the health risks are minimal. Fermented cider is an environment where harmful pathogens can't survive long.  Some molds can produce neural toxins, so if you have black / blue mold use caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can pasteurize the cider by heating to 170° or even boiling but this does effect the flavor, clarity and ABV. There are many chemical additions that can be used also, all having their own nuances to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really depends on what you want in the final product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cidermakes prefer to use raw cider and depend on yeast becoming the dominate organizim as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-09-12T15:39:29.537" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T15:39:29.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-12T17:26:47.840" Score="2" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been fermenting in a 42 Blichmann and when transferring the beer I plug the 1 micron filter with yeast even though I have &#xA;dumped most of trub and yeast during the 3 weeks of fermenting.  I use 5 lbs pressure from the co2 tank.  I did not have this problem when siphoning from a secondary carboy.  Does the pressure stir up the yeast?&#xA;The outlet is well above the settled yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14096" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T00:32:59.757" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T00:32:59.757" Title="Filter plugging from co2 pressure" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-12T18:29:56.943" Score="1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a 5 gallon batch of an LME Imperial Stout Recipe to start its magic.  My plan is to split the batch for secondary fermentation.  I plan to move one gallon into a separate jug to finish off over vanilla beans and champagne yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any input on how to split the yeast between the two vessels?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about pumping it all into the 5 gallon carboy and pitch the yeast then pumping a gallon ut afte the first day, but I really don't know if that will transfer the proper amount of yeast into the vanilla variety.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I accomplish this best?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14000" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T22:59:39.383" Title="Splitting batch for secondary fermentation over Vanilla" Tags="|secondary|stout|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18307" CreationDate="2016-09-12T21:23:41.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the beer is cloudy to the eye a 1 micron filter will clog very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer must not have completed fining before filtering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future pull a sample before starting to filter to make sure it's completely crashed out first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T21:23:41.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18308" CreationDate="2016-09-12T22:59:39.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let your primary fermentation finish before you do secondary.  At that point you can transfer a gallon and put it on vanilla.  Unless you're planning on aging the beer on vanilla for months (I wouldn't recommend this) you should have no worries about having enough yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let my carboys sit for a month, undisturbed, before I bottle, and I still have plenty of yeast in suspension for bottle conditioning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14018" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T22:59:39.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18312" CreationDate="2016-09-12T23:28:18.947" Score="2" ViewCount="596" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having problems with my 5 gallon blackberry wine batch. I took a reading with the hydrometer and the SG read 1.104 at the beginning of primary fermentation. I put a towel over the bucket and let it sit for 6 days in primary fermentation. I then moved it from primary to secondary and took a reading on the hydrometer and got a SG reading of.990. Since all of the sugar is out for the batch after only 6 days in the primary fermentation, it wont be able to ferment in secondary from what I understand. I read a few things about primary vs. secondary fermentation, but was confused about what action I should take next? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who are more adept than I am at wine making, here are the instructions I used for making the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eckraus.com/winerecipes/blackberrywine.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blackberry wine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part where I ran into trouble was after step 5. Step 6 says I should let it sit for another 4-6 weeks until I get an SG reading between .990 and .980, but I'm already reading an SG of .990.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14097" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T02:15:05.870" Title="Blackberry Wine" Tags="|wine|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18311" CreationDate="2016-09-13T02:05:45.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Secondary fermentation is for lack of a better term is the second phase of fermentation. It often doesn't need to be in a second vessle, &lt;strong&gt;nor does there need to be sugars left to ferment&lt;/strong&gt;. Its just a time for yeast to clean up esters and fine the beer/wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I've just about abandon the practice of racking to secondaries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary fermentation in a second vessel has only a couple of uses.&#xA;1) to harvest yeast from primary&#xA;2) remove the fermented beverage from yeast to prevent autolysis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your complete fermentation schedule doesn't exceed 4 weeks I see no need for secondary and little risk of autolysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case your wine has fermented completely. Some further time may help clean up esters. Only a taste test will tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will probably have fusel / hot alchohols since it fermented so quickly, bottle aging will help it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically at this point you can use finings or just bottle it as is. Adding some sugar at bottling will give it carbonation if sparkling is desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-09-13T02:15:05.870" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T02:15:05.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-13T13:07:44.153" Score="0" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 20 gallon space beneath my false bottom. Is it better to include this as mash water during the infusion or    not? If not, my grain\liquid ratio will be lower and therefore more watery pre-sparge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14099" LastActivityDate="2017-06-07T01:50:41.913" Title="Domed False bottom liquid during mash" Tags="|wort|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-13T16:31:53.493" Score="2" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a first time shiner. I had a blow-off this morning, I'm making shine. I use a plastic bucket with a screw-on air tight lid and an airlock. The pressure blew the screw-on lid off. After cleaning up and adding a blow-off hose, I noticed that the mash is no longer bubbling at all. And, that beautiful krausen I had is all but forgotten. Should I re-add yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used 5 gallons water, 5 pounds of cornmeal and about 10 pounds of sugar. Then I used TURBO CLASSIC YEAST.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14101" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T13:25:34.330" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T13:25:34.330" Title="Re-adding yeast after a blow off" Tags="|first-time-brewer|stuck-fermentation|blow-off|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-13T16:44:17.227" Score="2" ViewCount="566" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for a place I can get soda bottles from ( looking to brew my own soda ) either twist top or screw top. Looked all around the internet but can't seem to find the right thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2609" LastActivityDate="2017-06-24T17:00:35.160" Title="Is there a source for clear and amber glass bottles that can handle pressure?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18314" CreationDate="2016-09-13T17:34:28.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What blew out is just the krausen while it has a lot of great yeast in it, there should be plenty left to complete fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a note.&#xA;Cornmeal needs a cereal mash to expose starches and then enzymes from grain or adding them directly to get fermentable sugars on a mash. If this wasn't done then all that fermented was the 10lb of sugar, so keep that in mind when taking gravity readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T17:34:28.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18315" CreationDate="2016-09-13T19:27:28.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some swing tops:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01I47DW50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Swing Tops&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can use some 750s for extra preasure and conveninet aging:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005CI25EE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;750s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even a multicolored set: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B014HPO5T0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WOW!!!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14000" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T19:27:28.003" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18325" CreationDate="2016-09-13T20:30:53.540" Score="2" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a new brewer and have only done LME Kits.  I would like to try to make a sour but am not quite ready for an all grain brew.  Are there any good recipes out there for a good Sour Ale using LME?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14000" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T11:06:39.467" Title="LME Sour Recipe Suggestions" Tags="|sour|beginner|lme|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5819" CreationDate="2016-09-13T20:52:23.533" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a UK company starting up that says they're going to do this. They haven't started yet so i can't speak for their quality but probably worth a look because at the very least it would save you on shipping. They're called Your Brew (www.YourBrew.co.uk).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They had an offer on to sign up for free samples when they finally open (which i signed up for) but haven't received any yet. Might be one to keep an eye on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14104" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T20:52:23.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18318" CreationDate="2016-09-13T23:56:24.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're limited to LME you may want to just use lactic acid to sour a beer. This can be done post fermentation to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use traditional bacteria with an LME beer but it would need to be inoculated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;True all grain sours are a big step in homebrew requiring a mash held at warm temp for several hours or at least a kettle with stable warm temps. Kettle souring keeps your fermentation free from souring bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ferment with bacteria &amp;amp; yeast you really need seperate fermentation equipment, racking tools and kegs just for sours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T23:56:24.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18322" CreationDate="2016-09-14T00:45:31.723" Score="4" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tried my first batch of root beer. I used a recipe from &lt;a href=&quot;http://wellnessmama.com/11392/homemade-root-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wellness Mama&lt;/a&gt;. I don't drink but I think it tasted alcoholic and gingery at best. I let the ginger bug ferment for 2 weeks (I waited an extra week looking for bottles), making sure to feed it sugar, ginger and stir daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed all the steps with all the ingredients. It was carbonated (big pop when opened) but somewhat clear. Like I said it was alcoholic tasting and gingery, fairly sharp. I'm not sure where I went wrong. I plan to make another batch tomorrow if I can isolate the issue. I am hoping since I used more than half my ginger bug and refilled it, the new stuff won't be so potent. Should I add more of a particular ingredient to ensure a root beer flavor? Like should I add more sassafras?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really love to get a good drink out of this, I've invested a bit into it and it would be a shame to quit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks so much for any input. I can take a picture of the drink if that would help or answer any additional questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Phil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14065" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T21:21:08.913" Title="What went wrong with my root beer?" Tags="|fermentation|ginger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18321" CreationDate="2016-09-14T13:07:15.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That recipe has a potential ABV of about 5.5% if allowed to completely ferment. It's carelessly labeled non-alcoholic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what yeast you actually have in your ginger bug this could ferment very quickly. In a matter of hours. Some strains will even continue in cold conditions. It may take a few tries at a bug before you get one that works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This recipe is a little missleading allowing it to ferment several days. This will only produce a non-alcoholic beer if the strain is very weak or has very low ABV tolerance. I would completely remove the sugar from the recipe or skip this step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can try to use much less of the bug&lt;/strong&gt; to inoculate the root beer and check every few hours for carbonation then attempt to stop fermentation with refridgeration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a scoby it's really not an exact science because you really don't know what strains of yeast and bacteria you're working with. Thier behaviors can be all over the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-09-14T20:00:12.183" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T20:00:12.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3144" CreationDate="2016-09-14T18:17:09.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using regular supermarket sugar cubes ( Domino Dots ) in 12 oz bottles.  They are 198 to a lb which is 2.3g per cube.  Which is 2.5 volumes of CO2.   I ferment in my bottling bucket so my choice is cubes for about 1¢ each or carb drops for 9¢ each ( 60 for $5 ). Sugar Cubes have worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14110" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T18:17:09.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18326" CreationDate="2016-09-14T22:28:19.173" Score="3" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried out my first five gallon batch (prior to this I had a 1 gallon system) with a pumpkin ale. I followed this recipe: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/allgrain/AG-SmashingPumpkin.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SMASHING PUMPKIN ALE&lt;/a&gt; except that at the last 15 minutes of the boil I added a tsp of Irish moss to increase the clarity of the finished product. I also opted to add real vegetable and added 11 cans of 100% pumpkin puree or a little over 10 lbs of pumpkin. I used the liquid recommended yeast instead of the dry mentioned in the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brewing process went well but when I started to siphon into my carboy I was unable to use my filter funnel because the wort was too thick (likely because of the pumpkin) and it kept clogging it up. So I skipped the funnel and put the wort directly into the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within about 6 hours I noticed the first signs of fermentation. Within 12 hours it was bubbling pretty well, which was to be expected. However, it's been about 36 hours now and the fermentation seems to have stopped. I never got a good, vigorous fermentation and no head on the beer. The beer separated, so about the top half of the liquid looks like a solid pumpkin beer, very clear, and the second, bottom half is very thick, likely the pumpkin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never brewed with pumpkin before so should I not expect a good fermentation because of this? My OG was a little off from the recipe (I think) as I had 1.050 and they had 1.056, but it was also very tough to tell because the wort was so thick the hydrometer just kind of stuck in it and didn't float and bob like it should have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips are greatly appreciated. I fear my first batch with my new five gallon system won't turn out very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14113" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-09-16T00:07:00.393" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T00:07:00.393" Title="Pumpkin Ale Slow Fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|ale|pumpkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18318" CreationDate="2016-09-15T11:06:39.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sour brewing doesn't mean all grain brewing by any stretch.  Sour beers start with wort just like anything other beer; how you get your wort doesn't matter.  Of course all-grain affords you more control and options, but that's a statement for all brewing not sour beer specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sour beer brewing and LME is perfectly fine.  Pick a recipe that seems right for souring.  Straight up Wheat LME alone would work perfectly fine as it usually 50/50 wheat and barley anyway.  If you want more character you can steep specialty grains like you would any other LME/DME based beer.  Just stay away from varieties that need mashing (an argument could be made here for the starches being good for the souring microbes, but that's a more complex topic for your first sour beer)  Then pitch a souring culture blend.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roeselare from Wyeast is a good place to start, but there are many other companies out there making souring blends now too. I've had the best luck combining Roeselare with blends from other companies in the same ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T11:06:39.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18324" CreationDate="2016-09-15T11:28:44.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;11 cans is a lot.  Pumpkin is also mostly starch so adding it in the boil probably did give you some flavor, but mostly a starchy mess as you indicated.  You didn't mention it but I would suspect you left a fair amount of material behind in the boil kettle because I doubt it would all fit in your carboy (meaning 5 gallons of wort and all that pumpkin solid).  So it sounds to me like you have a small amount of beer that fermented out already or slowed drastically due to all the starch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd let it settle for a few days.  Take a gravity reading and see if its close to terminal gravity.  The longer you let it sit the more that puree will settle down some and the more beer you'll be able to rescue when you package.  It might not be a total loss, but you'll have to wait and see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips for the future would be to add that pumpkin to the mash.  I'd also add pound of rice hulls as well to help with the lauter.  I make a sweet potato beer and I add baked sweet potatoes to the mash.  That converts much of the starch to fermentable sugars and leaves much of the solid mess behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T11:28:44.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-16T00:44:43.920" Score="2" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I brewed my first 5 gallon batch. A pumpkin ale! Super stoked, but it was hard to avoid getting some of the undissolved hops in it as I transferred the force chilled wort to the primary fermenter with a siphon. Will that affect my primary fermentation? I originally just wanted to do a primary even though it calls for a secondary because the brewer thought it was too pumpkin pie-ish. But, if I need to transfer it anyways to make it cleaner I will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14119" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T14:53:59.393" Title="Is it ok if my transferred wort has some undissolved hops in it?" Tags="|wort|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18329" CreationDate="2016-09-16T01:37:20.210" Score="2" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a high gravity american double (stout), fermentation went well and I gave it enough time to presumably take care of most of the fermentable sugar. Then I added 2 lbs of pureed strawberries and blueberries for every gallon, gave it another week or so and bottled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I bottle conditioned, (I believe) the added fruit messed up my carb calculation and the beer was super over-carbonated (side questions: has this ever happened to you? can added fruit do this?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I waited for about 6 weeks, confirmed that the carb level was unpleasant and then did the recapping trick to lower the carb level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this - would you ever recap twice? In other words, if I am still unhappy with how carbonated this beer turns out, do you think I could just recap the bottles again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13577" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T18:13:59.740" Title="overcarbed bottles recapped and then recapped again?" Tags="|carbonation|over-carbonation|recapping|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18328" CreationDate="2016-09-16T03:28:17.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you may open the bottles release pressure, and cap them again. You won't be introducing (any significant amount of) oxygen by doing this, but do it in a clean environment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why this happened, it seems that the sugars present in the fruit were not fully fermented by the time you bottled. Next time you can either wait longer, or make sure the S.G. is constant by using a hydrometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit based on John's answer&lt;/em&gt;: It is true that solids can provide nucleation sites for the CO2 bubbles to form, thus facilitating their escape from the liquid phase. Or in other words, the suspended solids could increase the perceived carbonation. However I have not experienced this myself. I think that the first hypothesis (uncompleted fermentation) is more likely to occur. Also, large solids precipitate to the bottom of the fermenter and the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14120" LastEditorUserId="14120" LastEditDate="2016-09-17T17:43:59.987" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T17:43:59.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18315" CreationDate="2016-09-16T12:02:55.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Duvel amber bottles hold about 11 ounces and can handle about 4 vol of pressure, compared to 2.8 for most standard 12 ounce bottles.  The bottles I had were very heavy, squatty with very rounded edges.  I don't know if you can buy them commercially, I got mine emptying them one at a time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T12:02:55.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-16T12:03:20.477" Score="1" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a mash tun which holds 20gl beneath the false bottom.  Do we incorporate this amount of liquid as mash liquid with respect to mashing ratios   or will it dilute the resulting wort if we don't? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14124" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T21:34:19.823" Title="Amount of wort liquid beneath false bottom" Tags="|mashing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18327" CreationDate="2016-09-16T12:43:57.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll be fine.  I don't think it will affect your primary fermentation to any noticeable degree as far as homebrewing is concerned.  You'll need to siphon again to bottle or keg.  You can also use cheesecloth or a nylon bag to hop with to keep this to a minimum.   I'd love to see your recipe, I'm big on pumpkin beers too.... tis the season!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13332" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T12:43:57.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18331" CreationDate="2016-09-16T14:45:11.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a recirculating mash is used this is added to the volume in water grist ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the volume not in contact with grain remains largely unmixed it can be purged after the mash and omitted from the water grist ratio. But no matter how undisturbed this water is you will lose some fermentables in the purge reducing mash effeciency some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 gallons Is a lot. What is your total volume of the mash tun? Usually this kind of dead space is only in commercial systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case if the false bottom volume exceeds about 20% of the total volume you will start to seriously effect  efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-09-16T14:58:18.667" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T14:58:18.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18327" CreationDate="2016-09-16T14:53:59.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops don't dissolve. They basically come in 3 forms (whole, pellet and extract which is very rare for homebrewers).  The whole hops are easy to spot (they'll be those leaves floating on top of your wort). Pelletized hops break up and are normally found in the bottom of your boil kettle.  If they make it into your fermenter, it's not a problem.  Heck, you can even drop and once or seven into your secondary (this practice is called &quot;dry hopping&quot; and it's common with IPAs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T14:53:59.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5694" CreationDate="2016-09-16T15:12:06.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently doing &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0089PN8UM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a kit&lt;/a&gt; that calls for adding Champagne Yeast upon secondary fermentation.  I suspect the champagne yeast will consume different sugars than the yeast I used to start fermentation in the primary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a hard time finding much information on this subject.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let my primary go a little farther than I should have. It had stopped when I moved into secondary.  &lt;strong&gt;I pitched the Champagne Yeast, fermentation started again.&lt;/strong&gt;  I can't say for certain that is the only thing that started fermentation again, it could have been the transfer, but it happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer has a couple months to go, so I  can't speak to taste yet.  But there is a very thick cake on the bottom and this beer it is BLACK.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experimentation is the only way to learn some things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14000" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-09-17T08:36:17.383" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T08:36:17.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18331" CreationDate="2016-09-17T08:52:55.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would include it, as the lower layers of your mash will diffuse into and out of this volume. I am guessing if your dead space is 20gal ~ 1HL, then you are brewing with some seriously large home brew kit or some tidy professional equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other reasons you should include this volume in your calcs, you will be stirring/using a grist hydrator so this volume wil dilute the diastatic strength of the solution in your mash tun; as mentioned especially in the lower portion of you mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will end up in your final wort and in my experience I get a lot of fine milled grain sitting in dead space which converts and is converted making this dead space rather rich in extract.  We occasionally have to apply back pressure to re-float the mash, or sometimes recirculate to filter out this floury mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T21:04:11.017" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T21:04:11.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18328" CreationDate="2016-09-17T08:58:13.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second the point from Septimus G about waiting longer. After adding fruit or puree I would almost always wait 2-3 weeks,  sometimes even a month. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't state how long you had left the primary fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a high gravity stout or barley wine I would usually give 3-4 weeks in the primary. And 1-2 weeks in the secondary; before bottling. Then if adding fruits I would then extend this time further. As I find it always takes the yeast that bit longer to ferment out the last bit of gravity from the initial brew when pushing 1090-1100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T08:58:13.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18328" CreationDate="2016-09-17T15:58:02.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could also be suspended solids from the puréed fruit. The CO2 will form bubbles on those suspended solids at a lower concentration of CO2 in the beer. I released the pressure of a foamy batch and recapped and they were ok but lower carbonation ~1.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14130" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T15:58:02.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-17T21:42:59.393" Score="2" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I've added my grapefruit potion along with my hops in the secondary fermenter. Will it need to stay in the secondary fermenter longer because of the added alcohol / ingredients?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14131" LastEditorUserId="13332" LastEditDate="2016-09-25T08:52:31.807" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T08:52:31.807" Title="Use of &quot;potions&quot; / secondary" Tags="|beer|secondary-fermentation|adjuncts|flavoring|fruit-extract|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18339" CreationDate="2016-09-18T00:04:48.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only if there were more fermentables added from the &quot;potion&quot;, i.e. fruit juice or other sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-09-20T06:46:55.833" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T06:46:55.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-18T04:50:14.477" Score="3" ViewCount="1057" Body="&lt;p&gt;What method is best to age honey wine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a similar  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/12348/is-it-better-to-age-a-wine-in-bottles-rather-than-bulk-aging&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; where someone suggests that bulk aging is faster. Has anyone experienced this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I found another similar &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2770/mead-is-taking-up-space-in-my-carboys-when-can-i-bottle-it?rq=1&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt;, one answer indicates that bulk conditioning is more convenient since it offers more control over the bottled product, but does not mention anything about which method offers a faster rate of aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14120" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T21:21:08.913" Title="Where to age mead, bottle or secondary fermenter?" Tags="|mead|aging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-18T06:51:26.727" Score="1" ViewCount="486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I topped off at 4 gallons rather than 5. Am I wrong for thinking this is low despite not adding more water?  I'm now a day after fermentation began. I plan to do a secondary fermentation. How much sugar should I add during the second fermentation for an 5-6% ABV beer? Thanks in advance!! First time homebrewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14119" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T15:14:18.267" Title="My OG is 1.030 and I'm only at 4 gallons?" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|first-time-brewer|first-time|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18342" CreationDate="2016-09-18T13:46:08.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is very low OG. It will only be about a 3% ABV beer. Which is fine for some styles like a Scottish Light / 60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its possible it's done fermenting now. Leaving it in secondary will not increase the abv unless there are still sugars to ferment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maybe the 1.030 SG reading is what you have right now&lt;/strong&gt;. In that case it's not called your OG anymore. OG is Original Gravity before any fermentation. If your SG is 1.030 then it needs to stay in primary a few more days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double check your recipe. It may have been indented as a smaller 2-3 gallon batch. Or like brewchez said, not mixed well when gravity reading was taken. If the OG was only 1.030&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T13:46:08.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-18T13:57:10.543" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of brewing a Saison and make it very fruity. I want to have grapefruit like aromas and flavor. I've been reading up and some people suggest using juice others recommend using zest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with juicing or adding zest so I have a few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;should I use juice or zest &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much should I use? (fermenter size is 15l) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in either case do I add it to the boil or to primary/secondary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how do you sanitize zest/juice?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T14:32:30.653" Title="Fruity saison: to use juice or not to use juice" Tags="|spices|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18341" CreationDate="2016-09-18T14:01:32.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally the aging process isn't dependent on the volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Couple differences&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;To age out fusels there are split opinions on what works better. Bulk / Bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger volume will give a more consistent product In the batch. Especially if utilising post fermentation additions. Wood, herbs, organisms etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes a little oxidation aids the flavor which aging with corks allows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottling gives more insurance as a whole against failures. But, has more individual exposures to bacterial contamination from bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bulk aging puts all your eggs in one basket. If the vessel fails or it gets contaminated its all gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T20:47:56.793" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T20:47:56.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18344" CreationDate="2016-09-18T14:32:30.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually you can get all that from hops and yeast esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you do want to use fruit you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you puree peel and all I recommend the addition to go in after the boil on the chill at about 170°F, 32-64oz is a good amount to use on 5 gallon test batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use zest. I recommend washing the citrus very well and use a potato peeler to remove the zest and not the white bitter part. Add the zest to secondary fermentor when alcohol is close to it's highest point. Zest from a few fruit goes a long ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do a zest tincture. Soak zest in a clean high alcohol vodka 100 proof. Use a vodka that has a plain flavor. This tincture can be added post fermentation or in secondary. This method gives more piece of mind to sanitation than raw zest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volumes and times really isn't an exact science when it come to fruit because they differ from fruit to fruit, crop to crop, year to year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T14:32:30.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18342" CreationDate="2016-09-18T15:14:18.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If that is truly your OG and not current SG, then the problem is likely with your measurement. When you top off the wort is heavier than the water and sinks to the bottom.  It's really difficult to get them mixed, no matter how much you stir.  SO when you take a reading you're getting it form the watered down portion on top.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T15:14:18.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-18T16:24:20.057" Score="3" ViewCount="1971" Body="&lt;p&gt;My OG might be a little lower than expected. I'm not sure if my reading was accurate since I took it a day after fermentation began via the spigot at the bottom of my bucket. Reading was 1.030. In a few days I'm transferring it to a secondary fermenter, where I will be adding more pumpkin. Can I add an energizer? And can I also add brown sugar or something like that to increase my ABV?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14119" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T13:53:42.340" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T13:53:42.340" Title="Can I add yeast energizer and sugar to my secondary fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|primary-fermentation|yeast-energizer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18348" CreationDate="2016-09-18T17:03:37.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When adding fermentables and nutrients this is basically a feeding and will raise the ABV. Usually done while on the primary yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally because the pumkin may have some fermentables I would do this late in primary and use your secondary just for fining. If at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T12:34:48.850" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T12:34:48.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6439" CreationDate="2016-09-18T23:01:50.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 1/5 of packet of S-04 per 4L brew and so far it has been in the fridge for 3 months and still works fine. I always hydrate it in 200ml of boiled water cooled to 35 Celsius with cling film on top, and it smells good and bubbles away. It's kept in the packet, folder over with a peg to keep it closed and inside a plastic sealed bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14133" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T23:01:50.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18352" CreationDate="2016-09-19T18:26:38.163" Score="2" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a big fan of Dogfish Head's use of natural sugars in fermentation.  I recall an apricot IPA that really blew my mind.  The fruit came through in a unique way that wasn't too sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering what else could be used like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do real vanilla beans contain any fermentable sugars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14000" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T19:47:58.697" Title="Fermentable sugars in Vanilla" Tags="|fermentation|sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18351" CreationDate="2016-09-19T19:47:58.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually only 2-3 vanilla beans are scraped and added to secondary for a really good amount of flavor In a 5 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, in those amounts there is very little fermentables in the vanilla beans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T19:47:58.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12233" CreationDate="2016-09-20T01:28:18.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I strongly advise to begin with a small batch (1-2 gal) setup: it is cheaper and easier. Two things that I find very important when you are getting started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14120" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T01:28:18.600" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-09-20T01:28:18.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11962" CreationDate="2016-09-21T05:53:59.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got a confirmation from a sankey S-type supplier and a German brewmaster that that is the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The German brewmaster just made his own with a SS pipe with appropriate spacing on the valve opening (not sure how big) and an old screwdriver for the wrench handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, a decent length pipe with two notches on the bottom and a screwdriver handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just about to get some s-type sankeys for the first time...wish me luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14145" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T05:53:59.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18362" CreationDate="2016-09-21T06:21:00.327" Score="2" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to brew sahti, which is supposed to have clove (phenolic) and banana (esters) flavors. They are said to be possible to make with baker's yeast, which I believe is possible for the moment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether I should make a ferulic break during mashing to enhance phenols from rye malt (which is about 30% of fermentables) or is this technique only viable with wheat malts? In other words: does rye malt can be source of ferulic acid and if yes, is the ferulic break temperature the same as for wheat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14137" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:57:39.263" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:57:39.263" Title="Rye malt and ferulic break" Tags="|mashing|rye|sahti|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18360" CreationDate="2016-09-21T11:31:33.267" Score="2" ViewCount="5124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently been experimenting with different cider recipes and all of the results have been quite dry with minimal sugars left after primary fermentation. I personally like dry ciders so it's not an issue for me, but I've been asked by family to brew some sweeter cider (closer to Somersby). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying store-bought cider as well as apples ground and pressed at home. O.G. measurements are sitting around 1.050 for most of the different starting ciders and I've been getting slightly less than 1.000 for my F.G.. From what I can tell, almost, if not all, of the sugars are getting used up in the primary and leaving a very dry cider. I've used champagne yeast and dry ale yeast (Safale S-04) with similar results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What ingredients/process do I need to use to brew a sweet apple cider?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thoughts were to shop around for a low attenuating yeast or to blend the dry cider with unfermented cider after the primary, but I'm not sure if this is off in left field. Would it be better to try and stop fermentation early?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14148" LastEditorUserId="14148" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T12:39:15.960" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T10:31:24.110" Title="Brewing process for sweet apple cider" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|cider|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-21T11:35:46.900" Score="2" ViewCount="3081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just curious because I took what was supposed to be my OG two days after because my hydrometer came late.  The reading seemed very low, 1.030, and I was hoping I lost at least .010 from the first two days of fermenting. I used Safale US-05 yeast, pitched at around 90 degrees and let it ferment at 68-72 degrees. Desired OG was 1.052. Since I'm using a bucket I'm not able to see any foam, but activity in the airlock started less than 20 hours after pitching yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14119" LastEditorUserId="14119" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T12:23:13.297" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T11:01:12.707" Title="What's the average loss of gravity after two days of fermenting?" Tags="|fermentation|original-gravity|primary-fermentation|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18357" CreationDate="2016-09-21T12:25:26.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe there is a exact formula to calculate this, but I think that 1.052 would take about 4 - 5 days to ferment with US-05, maybe even less in this temperature. Judging by relatively quick airlock action, I would assume the yeast is in good health. Also, it is worth mentioning that the fermentation is fastest in the beginning, just after the yeast is done multiplying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would estimate that you can be sure that it was at least 1.040 and your desired 1.052 is quite possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you verified your calculations for amount of fermentables with some kind of calculator (I use e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brewersfriend&lt;/a&gt;)? If you have calculated the amount of malt to match your target OG, then there is a good chance you were not off by much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14137" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T12:25:26.380" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18355" CreationDate="2016-09-21T12:41:15.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's my understanding that ferulic acid is released in the mash and produced by yeast in fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically unmalted rye is used in sahti this may have similar properties as malted wheat concerning ferulic acid giving you the clove ester. But clove can be obtained easier by yeast esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sahti style has no boil and a starting ABV of 7%. While bakers yeast is the traditional I'm not aware of any that have a tolerance above about 5% that's readily available. So because of the lack of a boil to sanitize and the high starting ABV, &lt;strong&gt;I would strongly recommend Wiezen yeast&lt;/strong&gt; with a pretty good pitch so it dominates quickly in a warm fermentation. This will give you the esters your looking for. Typically a wiezen for phenolic will be underpitched, in a sahti I would at least do a standard starter for the volume of wort / OG, and rely on the warm temp for a very fast growth phase to produce the esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T13:21:24.137" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T13:21:24.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18356" CreationDate="2016-09-21T12:57:42.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 pack of Nottingham yeast without nutrients does a great job at giving up early ending around 1.005-1.010 with OG 1.050 5 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can stop fermentation by cold crashing and keeping the cider cold until consumed. Taking care not to transfer yeast when racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also filters can remove yeast to prevent further fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's several preservatives you can use, and can be as simple as back sweetening a dry cider with an Apple juice that has preservatives like potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preferred method for sweet ciders since I keg, is to backsweeten with a portion of the same Apple juice. Keeping it cold to prevent secondary fermentation. As I don't care for preservatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider a malted cider using 50/50 blend Apple juice / wort.  The wort allows you to control the fermentable sugars. A mash temp of 162° does a good job of giving a lot of unfermentable sugars for residual sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T13:05:11.503" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T13:05:11.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18339" CreationDate="2016-09-21T19:29:16.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you have to know that airlock is not for detect if fermenting or not.&#xA;Airlock function is to leave co2 out and air not, for testing if is fermenting or not you have to mesure density.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always you add something external you have to check if it is fermentable ( fruit, sugar, honey) if you dont know better to give some time ( 1 or 2 days ) so the sugar on this products become soluble in beer, then to give a density reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wait 1-2 weeks and then make another reading.&#xA;After that reading if you see diferences make 3 consecutive readings within 1 day each one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get 3 readings same the fermentation its over, go cold crash - bottle - drink as usual! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you get diferent readings, it still fermentation. Wait another week and repeat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sry for my english.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13588" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T19:29:16.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18355" CreationDate="2016-09-21T21:24:19.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jaysbrewing.com/2013/01/16/6-different-mash-rest-that-improve-your-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ferluic Acid Rest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rest is one that people who make wheat beers sometimes use.  It is short but its at 111-115 degrees.  It develops ferulic acid.  Doing this rest aids to the clove like flavors that are in wheat beers..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=Q82QAwAAQBAJ&amp;amp;pg=PT53&amp;amp;lpg=PT53&amp;amp;dq=mashing%20ferulic%20break&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=kJ3Pte-X2F&amp;amp;sig=GA9ODDiRZ3lqtx134L_Hr86nbok&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwj5l87-r6HPAhWNNx4KHYilDSE4ChDoAQgnMAM#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=mashing%20ferulic%20break&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Performing a Ferulic asic rest around 110F(43C) can increase the level of ferulic acid&#xA;in wort, which some yeast strains convert to 4-vinyl guaiacol.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as for Rye, it does contain feluric acid. How much it contains it dependent on variety of rye (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11032481&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;), also you are going to need a yeast that can convert Ferulic acid to 4-vinyl for that clove aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion a Ferulic Acid rest &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; benefit clove aromas, but you may need to do a side by side test to verify. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2016-09-22T21:26:50.787" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T21:26:50.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18328" CreationDate="2016-09-22T18:13:59.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes this has happened to me. In my case it was the addition of apples after initial fermentation. I suspect that the first fermentation was complete but I did not consider the possibility of the yeast being fully spent. I should have filtered, re-pitched and then bottled after the yeast from the second pitch was spent....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14156" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T18:13:59.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5891" CreationDate="2016-09-22T19:07:56.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you used a plastic bucket and lid for primary fermentation, there are basically two types of buckets and lids. The cheaper ones are designed without a rubber gasket or o-ring in the lid. I used these for a while and experienced what you did every time. As pressure builds in the bucket, CO2 escapes through the seal between the lid &amp;amp; the bucket. Thus reducing the visual effect through your airlock. When I purchased the set up with an o-ring in the lid, fermentation was visible through the air lock for 5-7 days although the visual effect slowed down considerably. I have since replaced all my buckets with lid types as the visual effect lets me know when fermentation is really winding down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14158" LastEditorDisplayName="user8292" LastEditDate="2017-06-13T12:58:21.783" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T12:58:21.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18348" CreationDate="2016-09-22T19:17:39.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any additional fermentables will add to the ABV; however, be careful with the yeast you're using because it's tolerances may be lower than you need and you may end up with a sweeter beer that you're expecting. There's no reason not to add these fermentables to the primary if you want to extend the fermentation process unless you're trying to get it off of the cake (which you really don't need to worry about with newer strains of yeast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't even do a standard &quot;secondary&quot; anymore. I do an extended primary if I need extra fermentation and use the &quot;secondary&quot; time for conditioning/fining/flavorants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6675" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T19:17:39.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11613" CreationDate="2016-09-23T17:22:00.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think another aspect of all this that got brushed over, is that of temperature. Ester production is very relative to temperature. If you are using ale yeast, you are in or very close to the ester production zone. (17-19C)&#xA;I tihink open fermenting lends it's self to lagers, because of this ester/temperature issue. Your sub 10C ferment temperature largely attenuates the ester problem.&#xA;Couch quarterbacking here. Any comments on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14163" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T17:22:00.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2109" CreationDate="2016-09-23T21:34:33.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are not allergic to the substrate but are allergic to the malt, then it seems likely that the problem is from the enzymes produced in the malting process. Those enzymes get destroyed when the wort is boiled, so they are not present in the finished beer. In that case you should be able to drink beer even if you have a malt allergy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14164" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T21:34:33.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18285" CreationDate="2016-09-24T08:44:27.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should make your final beer noticeably dryer, indeed. It will also raise fermentability (more sugar will be converted to alcohol), so you will get higher ABV and you might get little less body (in the mouthfeel sense). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing to be worried about. You will get more west-coast result, which will most definitely be a good beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let us know how it turned out when it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14137" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T08:44:27.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18356" CreationDate="2016-09-25T10:16:06.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making any &quot;sweet&quot; fermented drink is always a problem. One can try to use a particular yeast to attenuate fermentation at some particular level but that is not always repeatable. One can pasteurise, chemically cosh (sorbate/bisulphite) or cold filter the brew to render the yeast inactive when the desired degree of sweetness or fermentation has been reached - the method favoured by many industrial brewers. But in that case subsequent carbonation of the cider must be considered. Or one can add sweeteners that do not ferment to the brew. The most obvious is lactose but an increasingly popular one is stevia extract.&#xA;Cold cider will still bottle condition and usually becomes drier after a prolonged wait, so just bottling a sweet cider and leaving it in a cold place/fridge may not always yield a sweet product. &#xA;I shy from using malt in a cider (its not cider, its apple beer) as IMHO it does not make it sweeter it just gives it more &quot;body&quot;. It increases the carbohydrate load that would not be present in traditional apple cider - the malt sugar ferments out leaving the dextrins and starch which aren't all that sweet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T10:16:06.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18357" CreationDate="2016-09-25T11:01:12.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are asking about typical fermentation, there is this from UC Davis relating to wine fermentation: &lt;a href=&quot;http://wineserver.ucdavis.edu/industry/enology/fermentation_management/wine/problem_fermentations.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wineserver.ucdavis.edu/industry/enology/fermentation_management/wine/problem_fermentations.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding fermentation in beer this article has a graph that shows gravity vs time for 3 strains of yeast: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.virtual-labs.leeds.ac.uk/brewing/fermentation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.virtual-labs.leeds.ac.uk/brewing/fermentation/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given ideal temperature control and nutrition available to yeast you should be able to get fully fermented out in 4-5 days. This is difficult for a home brewery to achieve, but what you have seen ~1052 to 1030 in two days does not seem at all unreasonable to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T11:01:12.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-25T11:53:14.510" Score="5" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I store less then 5 gallons in a keg topping it off with CO2?  I want to brew and have beer made, but I use 2 1/2 gallon kegs because my frig is small. I picked up a nice clean 5 gallon keg, and planned to store beer in it awaiting an empty 2 1/2 gallon keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T13:00:48.917" Title="Can I store less then 5 gallons in a keg?" Tags="|keg|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18372" CreationDate="2016-09-25T12:17:47.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that is totally fine so long as you blanket it with CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T12:17:47.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18372" CreationDate="2016-09-25T15:27:21.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few issues with storing beer in any half full container. All of these issues are manageable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first issue is oxygenation, but if you flush the keg with CO2 it will be fine while it is in the keg. Storing the keg at room temperature will allow a little bit of additional fermentation and you will wind up with a thicker layer of dead yeast on the bottom. I always have at least some dead yeast on the bottom, but when I store at room temperature the layer is thicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14166" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T15:27:21.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18376" CreationDate="2016-09-25T21:15:55.010" Score="1" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just primed 4.5L of weissbier with 38g of demerara sugar (the only I had around) and bottled it. According to beersmith's calculator that's what I should add to achieve 3.8 volumes of Co2. After some googling, I gather the values seem to vary a bit, so I'm slightly concerned. Could I be pushing it too much and risking bottle bombs? &#xA;(I should add that Beersmith was initially giving a 2.3-2.9 for that type of beer but after some googling I've found their range was wrong and updated it to 3.3-4.5.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13162" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T10:02:35.787" Title="Priming sugar quantities for Weissbier" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|priming|weiss|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18375" CreationDate="2016-09-26T07:30:37.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's &quot;only&quot; 8.4 g/L which is IMO is completely fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like Beersmith has a more optimistic carbonation formula than most other calcuators. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find brewers friend one to get close to my expected carbonation (subjectively at least, don't have the means to measure actual level). It gives about 5g/L for 2 volumes, and 8-10g/L for about 3 volumes for sucrose at ale temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13548" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T07:30:37.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18375" CreationDate="2016-09-26T10:02:35.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last time I brewed a Weissbier, I added ~8g/litre of white table sugar, which seems about the same as your case. My beer turned out somewhat overcarbonated and gushing out on opening when not chilled. However, I think it was far from producing bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a preventive measure, you might want to make sure the bottles aren't sitting in a too high temperature during bottle conditioning. When you open the first bottle, you'll get a hint regarding the carbonation level. You might want to lift the bottle caps on the remaining bottles and let some of the CO2 out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14050" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T10:02:35.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18356" CreationDate="2016-09-26T10:31:24.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always try &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cider.org.uk/keeving.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;keeving&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; which is a process used by the French (and British) to produce a naturally sweet cider. It works by creating a gel in the must, that traps nutrients and rises to the top, to form what is called the &lt;em&gt;chapeau brun&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;flying lees&lt;/em&gt;. You rack off the clear must from under the cap, either add yeast, or let wild yeast in and off you go. It adds a few extra days to the start of the process, but is relatively easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did it a couple of years back with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vigoltd.com/Catalogue/Chemicals-additives/Keeving-Kit-94426&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vigo Keeving Kit&lt;/a&gt;. I can't tell you what the resulting cider tastes like, as it's still in kegs in a friends outbuilding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T10:31:24.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3858" CreationDate="2016-09-26T10:39:00.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always try &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cider.org.uk/keeving.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;keeving&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; which is a process used by the French (and British) to produce a naturally sweet cider. It works by creating a gel in the must, that traps nutrients and rises to the top, to form what is called the &lt;em&gt;chapeau brun&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;flying lees&lt;/em&gt;. You rack off the clear, nutrient deficient must from under the cap, either add yeast, or let wild yeast in and off you go. It adds a few extra days to the start of the process, but is relatively easy. Once it's finished fermenting, rack it off into a bucket, add priming sugar and bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did it a couple of years back with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vigoltd.com/Catalogue/Chemicals-additives/Keeving-Kit-94426&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vigo Keeving Kit&lt;/a&gt;. I can't tell you what the resulting cider tastes like, as it's still in kegs in a friends outbuilding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T10:39:00.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18372" CreationDate="2016-09-26T11:10:17.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you adequately purge the keg with CO2 (I like to use the out dip tube side) before putting the beer in you'll be in good shape with any fill level you need to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T11:10:17.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18348" CreationDate="2016-09-26T11:18:54.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always add &quot;stuff&quot; (pumpkins/sugar/hops/etc) to a brew at almost any stage of the fermentation. It is more efficient to do it in one go but for the home brewer it is a matter of choice. The only negative possibilities are secondary infection from  nonsterile ingredients or opening the FV. The easy way to get round that is to pasteurise any later additions. Pumpkin can be pulped and microwaved, sugar can be dissolved in a &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; quantity of boiled water. Even hops can be microwaved - although I stress that is not usually needed. I don't think anything else will help - IMHO &quot;energiser&quot; is a but of a misnomer. The yeast is either vigorous or it isn't. The brew either supports fermentation or it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However be mindful of the fact that just adding stuff (esp fermentables) can have a limit. If the OG was &quot;too low&quot; then more dextrose or sugars can be added later. But the outcome will depend on the yeast attenuation rate. The yeast will only ferment to a certain point. Adding sugar beyond that point will result in a sweeter brew - or one that can be further fermented during conditioning by invasive species (like Brettanomyces or Pedioccocus).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T11:18:54.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10211" CreationDate="2016-09-26T20:01:58.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Example 5 gallon batch 1.070 IPA with a 60 minute Centennial pellet, (9% AA) addition would require 2 ozs of pellets. This hop addition can be replaced with &amp;lt; 5 mls of HopRage.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.soundhomebrew.com/hop-extract-5ml-syringe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.soundhomebrew.com/hop-extract-5ml-syringe/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for your recipe maybe 4oz of Centennial or 3oz of Columbus. Or use whatever the highest alpha acid hops you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14133" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T20:01:58.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18388" CreationDate="2016-09-26T22:32:03.697" Score="1" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the recipes that I've seen ( mainly on Beersmith ) which use Safale US05 quote the size as being 50.28ml but anywhere I see it for sale it's a dry yeast that comes in an 11.5gram sachet. Can someone explain this please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T14:07:51.847" Title="Why are the packets of safale US05 different from the recipes?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18385" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-27T01:46:45.640" Score="5" ViewCount="1778" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the importance of sanitation, particularly after the boil, should I boil water before adding it to the cooled wort to bring the volume up to 5 Gal?  Tap water is of good quality and tastes good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14135" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T18:15:04.420" Title="Should I boil water before adding it to the cooled wort?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18385" CreationDate="2016-09-27T02:26:50.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Absolutely&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While tap water (in the United States) is chlorinated, it does not eliminate beer spoilage microorganisms.  Boiling is the easiest, most effective way to kill them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T02:26:50.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18385" CreationDate="2016-09-27T12:39:38.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no idea about the OP's water but here in Sussex UK I use the water straight out of the tap. I would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; boil it - I would just add it to the wort in the FV, pitch the yeast and let it ferment. In most situations, fermentation is quite capable of dealing with and neutralising most common (and virulent) pathogens. Indeed, it is one of the useful effects of brewing and was used for rendering water safe to drink in centuries past. The real &quot;Ginger beer plant&quot; is especially good at this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I go by the maxim that if your tap water is safe to drink then it is safe to brew with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there is nothing wrong with boiling the water and allowing it too cool before adding to the wort. It just increases the &quot;carbon footprint&quot; of one's beer production. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T12:39:38.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18383" CreationDate="2016-09-27T13:18:41.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well gram and ml are different types of measurement. Gram is mass, ml is volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case it's referring to a hydrated yeast slurry volume of about two 11.5g packs of dry yeast or from a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slurry is the yeast that settles after hydration, so the remaining water is decanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular yeast is based on a wort of 1.040-1.050 OG. So a recipe calling for 50ml would be for a wort thats about 1.080 OG needing two packs of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T14:07:51.847" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T14:07:51.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18390" CreationDate="2016-09-27T16:32:09.280" Score="2" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm refering specifically to this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/18385/should-i-boil-water-before-adding-it-to-the-cooled-wort&quot;&gt;Should I boil water before adding it to the cooled wort?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14171" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T20:38:22.487" Title="Why would I add water to a cooling wort?" Tags="|sanitation|wort|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18389" CreationDate="2016-09-27T16:36:44.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not everyone can boil the needed full 5 gallons of water at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many times 2-3 gallons are brewed with the extract, cooled, and then the additional 2-3 gallons of water are added to bring the total volume to 5 gal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question to which you refer is asking if the &lt;em&gt;additional&lt;/em&gt; 2-3 gallons also need to be sterilized through boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13302" LastEditorUserId="13302" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T16:44:09.460" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T16:44:09.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18385" CreationDate="2016-09-28T07:04:10.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends, obviously. In many countries tap water is close to a few microorganisms in a milliliter, which would theoretically guarantee it to be safe. There should be test results available online or you could get your water tested in a lab (depending on where you live). However, if you are worried, it's better to boil it, just for your peace of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the future, it would be a good idea to make a simple test - pour some of your normally sanitized wort to two containers, add some boiled water to one of them and some un-boiled to the other. If the container with not boiled water spoils faster you will know that you need to sanitize your tap water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would wager that microbes that you missed during normal sanitation (and you can be sure there is plenty of them, no matter how careful you are) outnumber those in the water greatly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14137" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T07:04:10.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18461" CreationDate="2016-09-28T12:39:19.210" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new at adjusting pH levels in my brews. As a result, I went the wrong way in my adjustment and produced a very tart red wine. Can I unbottle it and adjust accordingly? And if so, what's your advice on handling that effort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13288" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T20:39:22.983" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T20:54:02.180" Title="I brewed a tart red wine" Tags="|ph|acidic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18389" CreationDate="2016-09-28T17:49:27.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You likely wouldn't be adding water to &lt;em&gt;cooled&lt;/em&gt; wort, but many brewers add water to &lt;em&gt;cooling&lt;/em&gt; wort for a number of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brewer may not have a large enough kettle to brew the entire batch at once and must add additional water, or a brewer may add water to a wort to reduce its OG. However, in both of these scenario's the wort is more likely to be cooling rather than cooled. The only scenario that I can imagine is if for some reason you cannot correct for temperature when measuring OG and need the wort to cool before you can accurately measure it. Adding water to cooling wort can have a beneficial effect on the cooling if the water itself is cool, and I would regard it as a mistake if the wort had finished cooling by the time I realized that I needed to add more water for any reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this isn't too pedantic a distinction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T17:49:27.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2016-09-29T06:18:05.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally use fridge with thermostat (it stands in my flat, so it's never too cold for yeast), but before I bought a spare one, I used a more makeshift solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to build a large styrofoam box, big enough for your fermentor and some, but not too much, spare space. You place your fermentor inside and change frozen or hot water bottles when temperature gets out of range. This is a lot of hassle, I agree, but it's cheap and easy to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14137" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T06:18:05.920" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-09-29T06:18:05.920" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18396" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-29T10:14:48.163" Score="4" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the easiest and best way  make opaque beer in the lab? The  beer has to be made in such a way that it will be able to be tasted. Besides using hops what other alternatives could I use for me to increase the bitterness in the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14176" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T18:37:05.470" Title="Laboratory Scale beer Production for Microbiology and sensory evaluation" Tags="|fermentation|hops|carbonation|techniques|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2016-09-29T11:43:36.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a styrofoam cooler and it's doing its job OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get five 100x50x5 cm panels of styrofoam. Cut 4 of them to 70 cm and glue together to make a box. Add bottom and lid from the remaining piece of styrofoam. It should end up with 45x45x60 cm inside, enough for a standard 33 litre plastic fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooling is done with 1-4 bottles of water, frozen in a freezer. They need to be changed every 12 hours during the first stage of the fermentation, once a day later on. Just remember to place the bottles on a plate or other recipient that will collect the condensation from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This takes some practice and isn't too accurate: you can't control the fermenting wort temperature too much, but it's generally easy to lower it by 5C or so. And it's cheap. The same cooler can be used without the ice bottles to produce 28-30C temperature inside, suitable for fermenting Saisons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14050" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T11:43:36.810" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-09-29T11:43:36.810" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2016-09-29T14:00:01.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Passive Cooling&lt;/strong&gt;: I seal up the wort and leave it overnight in a room tempurature area or outside, whatever. If the area is too cold, I check the wort starting at about 6 hours, so it doesnt get too cold to pitch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only con I am aware of is the time it takes, but I bet it affects the flavor somehow, too. Anyway, I've won a few awards just doing this, so its ok with the styles I have made (ales).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pros are obvious. Less work and less mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13754" LastEditorUserId="13754" LastEditDate="2016-10-03T07:25:22.590" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T07:25:22.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18396" CreationDate="2016-09-29T14:15:42.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few distinct questions in this, but I can comment on one of your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Besides using hops what other alternatives could I use for me to increase the bitterness in the beer?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A number of different wild herbs have been used as bittering agents in beer. Examples of this are scotch broom, mugwort, and yarrow. A quick internet search can reveal a number of different herbal options, but you can also refer to &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381667&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sacred and Herbal Healing Beers&lt;/a&gt; for herbal mixtures as well. I recently saw an episode of a TV show called &quot;Brew Dogs&quot;, in which they brew a hop free beer (Season 1 Episode 6), which is also a good watch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14148" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T14:15:42.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15139" CreationDate="2016-09-29T15:55:57.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's far easier to use (OG-FG)*.132&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T15:55:57.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18385" CreationDate="2016-09-29T18:13:17.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you said, your Tap water is of good quality and tastes good. Then I wouldn't worry about it. My water is from a well and also tastes fine and I have had no problems adding it to my cooled wort to adjust the volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13947" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T18:13:17.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18385" CreationDate="2016-09-29T18:15:04.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have well water which regularly tested but which also passes through a charcoal whole house filter. As a result my water is very safe and has low microorganism content so I do not boil. I would however if I lived in a city and my tap water did not run through any filtration system. A simpler solution might be to install a tap level water purification system on your tap of choice in your brew day area and use that water. They are not expensive, are easy to maintain and install and work very well. Just a thought....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14179" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T18:15:04.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18396" CreationDate="2016-09-29T18:37:05.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really depends on what the desired taste is of the opaque beer (SRM 30). The most potent in color and most flavor neutral dark grain, is Midnight Wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as bittering. Use hop extract (hopshot) when utilized in a boil of 45 minutes or longer all traces of flavor and aroma of the original hop is boiled off. It has very little hop profile to start with anyways. It's designed to only add bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T18:37:05.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18405" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-30T06:36:46.587" Score="1" ViewCount="926" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd also like to add Dark Egyptian Cane Sugar (to a porter), and Honey (to a nut-brown ale). Amounts of these? Add during boil? Goal is 5 - 7% alcohol content.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14182" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T23:02:11.943" Title="How much DME do you use for a 5 gal. batch?" Tags="|extract|dme|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18405" CreationDate="2016-09-30T15:56:06.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;DMe has about 45 ppg.  That's points per lb. per gal.  So one lb. of DME in one gal. of water yields a gravity of 1.045.  Divide by 5 for 5 gal. and you get 1.009.  So, in a 5 gal. batch, you get 9 gravity points out of 1 lb. of DME.  5 lb. in 5 gal. will get you 1.045 OG.  Cane sugar has about the same ppg.  Honey is around 32 ppg.  Using all of that, if you know the gravity you're going for, you can figure out how much of what to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T15:56:06.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2016-09-30T16:26:02.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my system (which I admit is non-traditional and only uses one vessel) after purchasing all the equipment and everything ($250 new), I calculated that after 10 batches, my cost per six pack is $6.00. Compare that with any commercial or craft beer at the supermarket and it's close. And the cost of homebrewing goes drastically down from there, reaching $3.78/six pack after 40 batches. I'm assuming an average cost of $25 per batch of beer, producing 50 beers per batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The economics of homebrewing was why I got into the hobby in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;details at my blog: &lt;a href=&quot;https://onepotbrewing.com/2016/09/29/how-much-does-brewing-cost-over-time-on-infographic-whiteboard/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://onepotbrewing.com/2016/09/29/how-much-does-brewing-cost-over-time-on-infographic-whiteboard/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14184" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T16:26:02.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17798" CreationDate="2016-09-30T18:45:44.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to recommend: &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewworld.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brewworld.com.au&lt;/a&gt; for tutorials, tips, and cooking directions plus the best products and kits available in the market. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14181" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T18:45:44.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18409" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-01T17:09:00.150" Score="2" ViewCount="1255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to ferment 2 and 4 Liters of papaya and watermelon (respectively) but am looking for how much potassium sorbate is needed, for each volume, to prevent yeast from multiplying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An equation, for future reference would be nice but an exact answer is welcome as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12410" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-10-03T10:52:43.447" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T10:52:43.447" Title="How much potassium sorbate is needed to prevent yeast from multiplying?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|secondary-fermentation|additives|potassium-sorbate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-01T18:43:29.330" Score="3" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a chest freezer that I operate at 60F/15C and brew all my beers inside of it. I also use a raspberry pi system that I keep inside the chest freezer. What can I do to prevent moisture growth inside of the chest freezer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T17:18:31.543" Title="How to keep my brew refridgerator dry?" Tags="|temperature|refrigerator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18410" CreationDate="2016-10-01T18:51:18.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid there is no simple answer. Some refrigerators are made in a way that prevent moisture and frost. it generally consist of wall coating that makes water flow easier, and draining ducts. And also periodic heating of cooling elements to melt frost. If your refrigerator is not built with these, your options are limited:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy anti-frost freezer mat. They are not as miraculous as manufacturers like to claim, but are not bad either.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use anti-frost / anti-fog coating, to let moisture flow to the bottom easier.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep your raspberry pi system &lt;strong&gt;out&lt;/strong&gt;side instead.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are not exclusive. Of course you can, and maybe should, use all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T18:51:18.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18409" CreationDate="2016-10-01T19:31:26.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it would depend on how much yeast was pitched, but the general consensus is that a 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of wine is enough to halt fermentation.&#xA;So for liters it would be a little more than an 1/8 teaspoon per liter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14080" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:31:26.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12269" CreationDate="2016-10-02T16:34:05.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly don't cut them all back, from my knowledge its best to focus on three bines. If you want a good yield out of your plant, that is generally the accepted number of bines your hop plant will produce good healthy hop cones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good referenece is here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.growinghopsathome.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.growinghopsathome.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14188" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T16:34:05.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18410" CreationDate="2016-10-03T13:43:54.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good humidity control for a fermentor is a mason jar of rice. Air circulation helps a lot to facilitate contact with the rice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change it out when the rice doesn't appear dry anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pillow packs are good too. Silica moisture packs are a must have in homebrewing, for grain storage too. I save them from sneakers, pillows etc. They are also reusable, once damp they can be dried back out in the sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T13:43:54.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6058" CreationDate="2016-10-04T00:14:24.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make stocks of your yeast in glycerol and put them in the freezer for relatively long term storage  and work with Petri dishes in the fridge for shorter storage time. You can make a glovebox for your self using house hold items. But if your sterile technique  is not good, you will encounter contaminations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glovebox is basically a sealed plastic box that you spray with bleach or ethanol and access through gloves. If you are careful enough this should suffice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14120" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T00:14:24.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18372" CreationDate="2016-10-04T13:00:48.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You definitely can and I do all the time.  I still like to bottle parts of my batch so it's easier to being places.  Just make sure you purge the keg first and after.  Just think of it like starting out with a full keg and drinking half of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1401" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T13:00:48.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18418" CreationDate="2016-10-05T15:40:05.000" Score="5" ViewCount="460" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am sort of new at this.  I ordered some hop bags as an add on item but have not yet used them.  In the past I always dropped my hop pellets right into the boiling wort.  But I plan to make a really clean and light colored hoppy ale.  I plan to use Citra in both the boil and dry hopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past (without using hop bags) I have noticed a substantial ring of hops in my fermentor just above the ready to bottle beer.  I have not had a hard time siphoning the beer out and leaving the hops behind, but this is my first dry hopped beer and I anticipate those may be more detrimental to clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what are the advantages and disadvantages of using a hop bag?  Does everyone use them?  Will it help my clarity? Will Flavor be affected?  Are they more suited for the boil or dryhopping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14000" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T15:54:00.360" Title="Hop Bags, What are the Advantages?" Tags="|hops|flavor|dry-hop|clarity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18417" CreationDate="2016-10-05T15:54:00.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using hop bags is just for ease of use of hops. Using them in the boil pretty much depends on your system.  With my system, the pickup tube will clog if I use whole hops without a bag.  For that reason, I almost always use pellets in the kettle.  When I use whole hops in the kettle, I increase the amount by 10% to account for the supposed loss of utilization when using  bag.  I always use a bag for dry hopping.  Most of my dry hopping is done in the serving keg and a bag contains the hops so they don't plug the dip tube or end up in your glass.  In this case, using a bag will not affect the clarity (except for the fact that it will let you avoid siphoning hops), aroma, or hop flavor.  Also, sine there is no loss of utilization in this situation I don't increase the amount. Some people will weight the bag on the mistaken belief that it will keep the bag from floating.  The bag will sink on its own once it gets cold.  Even of you dry hop in the fermenter, weighting is unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T15:54:00.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18410" CreationDate="2016-10-05T17:18:31.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an Eva Dry 'rechargeable' dehumidifier (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00BD0FN8A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Improved-Eva-dry-E-500-Renewable-Dehumidifier/dp/B00BD0FN8A/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1475687798&amp;amp;sr=8-14&amp;amp;keywords=dehumidifier+mini&lt;/a&gt;) and it works wonders in my kegerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2874" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T17:18:31.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18422" CreationDate="2016-10-06T02:32:47.173" Score="3" ViewCount="859" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the definition of post boil gravity and how is it different from original gravity - or are they both the same thing. Beersmith uses both terms but aside from the fermenter top up to me they seem like they should be the same thing. &#xA;On my brew the measured post boil gravity was 1.082 yet on the Brew Steps it gave an Est Post Boil Gravity of 1.059. I'm wondering whether it has something to do with the fermenter top off but brewsmith puts post boil volume and post boil gravity beside one another so you'd expect both figures to be occurring at the same step in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T12:07:08.730" Title="What is the definition of post boil gravity and how is it different to OG?" Tags="|original-gravity|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-06T12:02:51.587" Score="3" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the rated pressure for a Sankey connector? I see Sankey-fitting kegs are rated 60-120 PSI, so is it safe to assume the connectors themselves are good for at least 60psi? (I'm making sparkling wines so 60PSI is about what I need) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14197" LastEditorUserId="13111" LastEditDate="2016-11-08T18:16:10.997" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T07:16:11.690" Title="Safe rated pressure for a sankey connection" Tags="|keg|pressure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18420" CreationDate="2016-10-06T12:07:08.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd have to look at my beersmith to try and figure it out exactly.  I can say this, beersmith makes simple stuff too complicated.  Postboil gravity and OG are the thing in real world terms.  Unless, as you said, you execute some sort of kettle water top off step, or add water to the fermentor.  Beersmith doesn't actually indicate when or where the OG reading should be taken, (out of the kettle or from the fermentor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part of your post however is the most troubling.  Est post boil gravity issues.  I've had plenty of issues with all the estimates that BS tries to throw at you.  Unless you have carefully input all the variables in your equipment and mash profiles I have found those numbers can be pretty far off from reality.  The best thing I can tell you is that you need to brew a beer in your normal way.  Take really good notes of water volumes, wort volumes and gravities along the way.  Then go into a clean BS profile, buidl you recipe and play with the variables until BS #s match what you observed in the real world.  Beersmith is great, but the learning curve is tough and BS doesn't tell you this upfront.  Its pretty frustrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to take real world data and make beersmith bend to reality not try and bend reality to what beersmith tells you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T12:07:08.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18421" CreationDate="2016-10-06T12:31:58.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well the weakest point will always be the polymer based tubing used to carry the wine.  So the ratings on the fittings are moot I'd suspect.  Go with the highest rated food grade tubing and the fittings will still out rate the tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T12:31:58.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18427" CreationDate="2016-10-07T14:28:36.070" Score="9" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a new home brewer.  I only have a few batches under my belt -- one partial extract and two all grain.  Like most, I've read multiple books and watched videos on the brewing process.  Cleaning and Sanitization are talked about in depth.  In fact, it's talked about so much so that it has made me a bit paranoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On brew day, for example, I clean my equipment with PBW or Oxyclean, then sanitize.  I'm good with that, as I understand that this is best practices, and it doesn't take too long.  But, after I do that, say with a hydrometer, spoon, pitchers, etc.  Do I have to sanitize again every time I put it down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to find a balance between doing the right thing for my beer but not obsessing about it where cleaning and sanitizing is something I dread, keeping me from brewing.  I find a lot of video on the right way to clean and sanitize, but none that actually talk about HOW careful you have to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reviewing these boards, even on a single question about cleaning and sanitizing you get three different answers -- &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/17768/12982&quot;&gt;Is it okay to clean/sanitize brewing/bottling equipment the day before I plan to use it?&lt;/a&gt;.  I'd like to get the opinion on some home brewers that have more experience to see exactly how careful I have to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T21:12:58.453" Title="How paranoid about cleaning &amp; sanitization?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18424" CreationDate="2016-10-07T14:50:42.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The concept of sanitation itself implies that you have a significant tolerance for undesired microbes, as opposed to sterility where you have to be more careful. If you think that some of your practices are excessive, try removing them one brew at a time.     From my experience, I sanitize the equipment once and whenever I am not using the tools I put them back in the sanitizer. Working in a very clean environment is probably more relevant that continuous sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14120" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T14:50:42.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18424" CreationDate="2016-10-07T15:36:22.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sanitation in brewing is pretty simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it touches your &lt;strong&gt;cooled&lt;/strong&gt; wort make sure it's sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, there's no need to sanitize your hydrometer if you draw a sample for it and discard the sample. But you do need to sanitize the wine thief or device that draws the sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-10-07T16:58:18.627" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T16:58:18.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18424" CreationDate="2016-10-07T19:53:52.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other advice looks good so far. Having a generally clean work space and equipment is very important, and the fully sanitizing equipment only really matters for things that will come in contact with the wort post-boil. To answer one of your other questions, yes if any equipment that needs to be sanitized does contact anything else that is not sanitized, then it needs to be sanitized again. You may avoid this by putting sanitized equipment down in a sanitized area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to add is a suggestion that you consider using a spray bottle with a no-rinse sanitizer, like Star-San. If you are finding the process of sanitizing your equipment burdensome you should seek to make it less so. One avenue is to sanitize less equipment, but the other is to make sanitizing easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not need to carefully wash with Star-San. Using a spray bottle filled with Star-san or similar product and generally clean equipment, spray any equipment you wish to sanitize generously, and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T19:53:52.533" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18443" CreationDate="2016-10-08T18:49:12.380" Score="1" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Willamette variety vine that I want to get harvested, however the rains have started here in Western Washington. Right now the cones are quite wet, but i think they are ready to harvest, and some have already gone bad on the vine. Are there any special considerations that I need to worry about when harvesting them? I plan to dry them on a window screen in my garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12431" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T21:35:21.180" Title="Can I harvest my hops wet?" Tags="|hops|harvest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18424" CreationDate="2016-10-08T20:50:21.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never sanitize anything, and that works fine, too. I do clean my equipment, just like I clean any other pots and pans used in the kitchen. Then I pour the boiling hot wort into the fermenting bucket. That is good enough to kill whatever might have been in there. I let it sit overnight to cool (closed and with airlock, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safes me the trouble of buying sanitizer and worrying about when and how to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T20:50:21.933" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18432" CreationDate="2016-10-09T02:47:51.280" Score="5" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're not supposed to &quot;mash&quot; with only roasted grains according to a variety of sources (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/mead/item/1543-understanding-enzymes-homebrew-science&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;).  What comes out if you do?  Is it only starches, since no enzymes were active?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14212" LastEditorUserId="14212" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T17:11:35.777" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T14:31:34.683" Title="What happens if you mash only roasted grains?" Tags="|all-grain|mash|specialty-grains|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18431" CreationDate="2016-10-09T11:19:12.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not really mashing if there are no enzyme present.  It's just a big steep. But for the sake of argument...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's mostly starches.  Depending on the speciality malt being 'mashed' in this case you might get some fermentable material but it is mostly non-fermentable material.  This is how they make Sinamar.  Carafa is 'mashed', boiled and fermented, then it's concentrated down.  There isn't much fermentation (only a few points) in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="2788" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T14:31:34.683" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T14:31:34.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18429" CreationDate="2016-10-09T11:23:31.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need to dry them pretty quickly or mold will start to set it.  If you feel like they must be picked, I'd plan on an active drying process with a fan and some heat if possible.  You may want to try and build a small oast for drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T11:23:31.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-09T20:26:42.280" Score="3" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started brewing an Oktoberfest. It has been in primary for a little less than a week.  The first 24 hours was good, super active.  After about a day,  it got pretty warm here,  and the thermometer strip on my carboy read 80°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that,  my fermentation came to a screeching halt.  I figured the warmer temp might have just sped up the fermentation process,  but when I took a gravity reading,  it said 1.022, my OG was 1.042. So it went down considerably in that time.  I decided to wait a few more days.  Today,  I read it and it's at 1.018. I wanted it down to 1.012 to 1.016ish.&#xA;And to be honest,  as I sat here writing this out it doesn't seems as bad as I thought it was.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But,  Does this seem normal? Is this a normal rate?  Should I let it sit for a bit longer, or is this about as low as I can expect it to get? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is only my third batch ever, so I'm still new to this.  And this is my first time taking gravity readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14213" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T05:32:11.747" Title="Stalled fermentation" Tags="|specific-gravity|primary-fermentation|primary|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18434" CreationDate="2016-10-09T21:41:59.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At those temps yes it seems normal to me for it to go that fast.  (I assume this is an extract batch and you were using ale yeast.) That high temp could have stressed the yeast out and they are too tired to finish strong at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different brands of extract can finish higher than others.  If its been about a week I'd say let it go for a little longer.  Try and keep it in the low 70s at this point. (80 is a little high).  The cooling from 80 probably shocked the yeast a bit but they may plug along still just a little slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it tastes good to you 14-20 days in and it seems to not be fermenting more, then I'd say its ready to bottle at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T21:41:59.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18437" CreationDate="2016-10-11T00:08:51.147" Score="3" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some hard cider I'm making, and yesterday afternoon after I'd pressed all my juice, I put it in my sterilized carboy, and added the recommended (per the bottle) amount of potassium metabisulfite. Today, as I was preparing to pitch my yeast, I noticed that some natural fermentation has already started. Should I be concerned about this, or just go ahead and pitch my yeast as I normally would, and just hope/assume the much greater numbers will outcompete whatever natural yeasts were still left in there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14218" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T08:00:48.360" Title="Should I be concerned about natural fermentation beginning in cider?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18436" CreationDate="2016-10-11T09:58:46.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pitch away.  Sounds like maybe there wasn't enough metabisulfite but it should all work out.  I'd do a strong active pitch of yeast.  If you don't have that and were pitching dry I'd go with two packages per 5 gallons or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, some of the best ciders I've had were fermented naturally with what came on the apples.  Its also made some pretty bad cider to, you just have to ride it out.  Pitching your own yeast now will hedge on the side of success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T09:58:46.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18436" CreationDate="2016-10-11T18:44:51.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should only be concerned if you're going for a specific flavor profile and are mostly relying on the yeast for such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently made a batch of cider with a full load of wild yeast (cider kept unpasteurized and no chemicals added) and regular ale yeast added. During the fermentation there was a bit of competition between the different yeast strains which was noticeable in the trub as well. The final product ended up with a sour, tart flavor and slightly lower ABV compared to a full ale cider I made in parallel as a control batch. Your mileage may vary with the wild yeast as the breakdown of different strains on the apple skins will vary based on your location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally think the wild yeast adds a good character, but it does make the results hard to reproduce. If you want to avoid the wild strains, I would suggest boiling/pasteurizing the cider before you pitch the yeast to try and eliminate the other microbes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14148" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T18:44:51.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18439" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-11T19:55:33.123" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T19:55:33.123" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T19:55:33.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18440" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-11T19:55:33.123" Score="0" Body="In the context of brewing, gluten free refers to the use of ingredients that do not contain gluten from the onset.  This includes ingredients such as sorghum, honey, millet, buckwheat, etc.  It would exclude beer that use barley, wheat and rye (for example).  Note: if gluten reducing enzymes, such as the commercially available product 'Clarityferm' are used on the gluten containing ingredients, that is commonly known as &quot;gluten reduced&quot; beer." OwnerUserId="8412" LastEditorUserId="8412" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T19:24:26.047" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T19:24:26.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13287" CreationDate="2016-10-11T21:32:40.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe it was too much sugar.  It might be, but to settle on that means you overlook other possibilities like contamination.  The 20% increase in sugar means that you went from 2.7 to 3.2 vol. of CO2.  3.2 is around where things like hefeweizen and Belgian beers are.  Pretty much any bottle should be able to withstand 3.2.  If it's uneven mixing, then you'll find some bottles that will be undercarbonated.  If you get those, then you can logically deduce it might be uneven mixing.  But I really don't think the amount of sugar is what's causing your problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T21:32:40.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18429" CreationDate="2016-10-11T21:35:21.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in Yakima for Hop and Brew School about a month ago and asked a hop grower the same question.  His answer was &quot;we're gonna dry 'em anyway!&quot;.  Dry them as soon as possible...hops start to compost themselves within one hour of harvesting, and if they're wet it will happen sooner.  After many years of playing with drying temp, I've found that about 130F for 3-6 hours is perfect.  That also correlates with what the hop growers do when they dry theirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T21:35:21.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18446" CreationDate="2016-10-11T21:52:29.290" Score="2" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I typically accumulate a lot of commercial bottles because I have a hard time tossing out a non-twist-off beer bottle (it is an obsession and I've promised my wife I'll seek help).  I will clean them by filling a 5-gallon bucket with a PBW solution and soaking the bottles in batches of about a dozen (it cleans them up and takes the labels right off).  Obviously the PBW solution gets dirtier with each batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can monitor the efficacy of Star-San just by measuring the pH; is there a simple way to monitor the efficacy of PBW or similar cleaners, or is one stuck making subjective judgements by how murky the solution looks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T12:48:34.323" Title="PBW batch lifetime" Tags="|pbw|cleaners|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18447" CreationDate="2016-10-12T02:18:45.553" Score="5" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on clearing my beer, started using Whirlfloc, giving it time, etc in the primary.  I read about some allowing beer to clear in a keg, doesn't the keg get clogged with the settlings? If cleared in a keg, what happens when you carbonate, doesn't it just get mixed up again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T12:54:24.690" Title="Beer clearing in a fermenter or a keg?" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18444" CreationDate="2016-10-12T12:48:34.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chemical reaction that develops the oxidizing reactions is fairly quick.  Certainly an overnight soak and its done.  That's not to say however that the chelators and surfactants in the mix don't still have function at loosening certain soil deposits and more over, labels on commercial bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to save it you could use the spent stuff for getting labels free and getting that first pass of dirt out.  Then use a smaller volume of fresh solution for true effective cleaning prior to sanitizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T12:48:34.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18445" CreationDate="2016-10-12T12:54:24.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I worried about the same thing when I started kegging.  Surprisingly, it doesn't clog up the pick up tube.  Now of course that's dependent on how much junk there is to settle out.  The end of every keg has a layer or yeast/proteins in the base even with the clearest beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My beers tend to sit in primary for 14-20 days.  They are pretty free of sediment at that point. I go from there directly into kegs.  They sit cold and more stuff comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for carbonation stirring it up, that's only a concern in special cases.  First, if the keg is moved it will stir up sediment for sure.  If you overcarbonte the beer and need to release pressure using the PRV, I have found a clear beer will cloud up.  I think this is because once you release the pressure the sediment nucleates with CO2 and some of the CO2 then lifts the particles up into the beer a bit.  It eventually settles back out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the pressure stays on the beer and the beer isn't mechanically stirred (lifting the keg to carry it around for example) the stuff stays in the bottom.  Just like bottle conditioned beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T12:54:24.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18424" CreationDate="2016-10-13T04:29:54.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spoke to a long time brewer before who had a very relaxed approach. When he finished a bottle he would give it a good rinse out, and the same with the fermenter. When putting on a new batch/bottling he wouldn't bother sanitising unless the fermenter/bottles had been laying around unused for a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He explained the yeast would create a self regulating system, and he'd clean and sanitise any bottles if they tasted funny (which apparently was rare).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I've always gone the star-san route with everything myself - though I'm quite interested in what shortcuts are safe-ish. I've relaxed a little when kegging. For kegs I sometimes just rinse them out and pass a kettle of boiling water through them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3283" LastEditorUserId="3283" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T05:36:05.133" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T05:36:05.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-13T08:13:55.173" Score="5" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a brew at the weekend with my usual kit (electric boiler). Everything was identical, apart from the location (a shop) and the water (I usually use filtered water from a Brita tap, but this time I used plain tap). I usually get about 19 litres, but this time, I got closer to 15, so it seems like the boil off rate was much higher. What factors could influence such a dramatic change in boil off rate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3864" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T16:38:06.963" Title="Higher boil off than usual?" Tags="|boil|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18449" CreationDate="2016-10-13T09:46:35.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two main reasons I can think of (only considering boil off, not speculate &quot;you did something else wrong&quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher voltage from the grid than at home.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most EU countries at least you should expect 230V +/- 6% from your mains. This means the actual voltage can be as high as 244, or as low as 216. US and other first world places likely have similar tolarances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power goes (in the simplest case) as P = U^2 / R for a resistive load. Notice theres a square in there with the voltage, so a small change in voltage makes large impact in power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: A simple heating element rated at 2kW @ 230V gives an R of 26.45Ohms. This means that the actual power is anywhere between 1760W and 2250W without anything being outside of their specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower air preassure (elevation and weather).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably a small effect unless there's a big difference in elevation between locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13548" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T09:46:35.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18449" CreationDate="2016-10-13T14:14:16.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boil off is effected by three main things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boiling temperatures: &#xA;&lt;em&gt;Effected by elevation&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;For example: I sometimes brew at sea level (212°) and sometimes in the high desert (206°) 3000ft the two areas have a few degree difference in boil temp.&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Effected by BTU efficiency, voltage.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;As mentioned, voltage especially 220v has a wide range here in the USA. 218-240v. Elevation and humidity will effect the BTU of gas burners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Humidity&#xA;In the same way humidity can make evaporative coolers useless, it also effects boil off rate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ventilation&#xA;If an open kettle has a cross breeze you can expect more boil off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Best practices&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA; Set your boil based on its action, not a temp setting or kettle burner setting. Its best to have a low rolling boil just a touch above a simmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If under unknown conditions watch it and record the boil off for the first 1/4 of time (15min in 60min boil). You can then adjust temperature to reach you desired post boil volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have more boil off than expected, add water! This can be done at any point before pitching as long as the water is sanitary (bottled or boiled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T16:38:06.963" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T16:38:06.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-13T16:04:56.370" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;new Equipment&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; on the next month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;As background info&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;I was homebrewing for the last year. I was reading as much as I can and cooking beer as many time as I can, i think that I have at least 20 times, and around 700 Lts of beer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you see i am quite new in homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equipment i &lt;strong&gt;was using is for 40lts&lt;/strong&gt; (only one pot of 50lts and a conservator of 60lts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equipment &lt;strong&gt;I am getting next month is for 160lts&lt;/strong&gt;, with 3 pots (water, macerator and boil) and a 170lts fermentator. The equipment was design by experienced homebrew guys, and it has no any accesories that I still dont know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite of this, I am concerned about the complications that can carry a cook of much larger volumes. I was suggested to be careful with the temperature of the fermenter because a much larger volume can elevate the beer temperature during this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I would like to know which aspects you could recommend me to take care.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13051" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T20:23:34.280" Title="Upgrading Equipment" Tags="|beer|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18462" CreationDate="2016-10-14T00:43:25.640" Score="3" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of commercial brewer's websites give grain bills and hop profiles for their various beers.  I was wondering if there is a way to take that information, perform some calculation on it (whether using software or just pen and paper), and figure out how much of each ingredient I'd need (% of mash as well of how much of each grain I would need) for a batch of a particular volume (1 gal, 5 gal, 10 gal, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this can be done, the follow up question would be when the hop additions would occur, what I should expect for OG/FG, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trilliumbrewing.com/trillium-congress-street-ipa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trilliumbrewing.com/trillium-congress-street-ipa/&lt;/a&gt; (dry hopped)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.samueladams.com/craft-beers/boston-lager&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.samueladams.com/craft-beers/boston-lager&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T16:39:26.797" Title="How do you take ingredients from a brewer's website and make a recipe" Tags="|ingredients|recipe|recipe-formulation|recipe-scaling|clone-recipe|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2359" CreationDate="2016-10-14T01:14:52.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem about a week ago. Cracked open my 1st 6 pack of an Irish Red Ale, came to find out it had no carbonation (didn't stop me from enjoying the taste). I experimented with another bottle from the same batch, giving it a good 3-4 hard shakes and placed it in the fridge. Sure enough I popped the top to this bottle a day later and was not disappointed. It hissed and as I poured it into my glass it started to create a beautiful tan head! I'm thinking I agitated the little bit of sediment/yeast/sugar in the bottom of the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14235" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T01:14:52.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18453" CreationDate="2016-10-14T12:52:41.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no way to just look at a list of ingredients, with no quantities, and with great accuracy know how the beer is made, or what those quantities are.  The best you can do is take educated guesses based on things like hoppyness, maltyness, sweetness, color, clarity and smell of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, there is hope, as beer recipes are very scalable, once you know the ratios of malts, and hop schedules.  For instance, doubling a 5 gallon recipe will give you a 10 gallon recipe, and quadrupling it will give you the 20 gallon recipe.  Once you get into the hundreds of gallons at a time, I would think some of the quantities would need some tweaking, but not by much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider that even if you did know the recipe, you might have to alter it to fit your equipment and account for other factors in how you brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13945" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T12:52:41.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18457" CreationDate="2016-10-14T16:18:39.797" Score="2" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making an American IPA from young's which was sat at 1.010 SG for a couple of days. This is the point at which the instructions suggest I add the hop pellets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A minute or so after adding the pellets there was a massive release of gas, more than at any point during primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears now that there is regular gas being released again, does this mean fermentation has restarted and the hop aromas will be lost? Should I wait for the whole thing to calm down again and add a second batch of hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14238" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T17:44:59.513" Title="Dry hopping and massive gas release" Tags="|dry-hop|gas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18456" CreationDate="2016-10-14T17:44:59.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermenting/fermented beer has something like 0.8 volumes of CO₂ dissolved into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding hops creates a &lt;em&gt;ton&lt;/em&gt; of nucleation points for CO₂ bubbles to form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation has likely not restarted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add the second batch of hops whenever you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T17:44:59.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18458" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18482" CreationDate="2016-10-14T19:05:32.320" Score="2" ViewCount="1577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently brewed a nice rye ale. It turned out very nicely, however, compared to all the other beers I've brewed, it has a really syrupy texture and thickness to it. It quite dry but it isn't strong, ABV is 5.5%. The main malts were pale, rye and some wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was wondering - what are &lt;strong&gt;general influences&lt;/strong&gt; on the &lt;strong&gt;thickness&lt;/strong&gt; of a beer? Is it just the malts (I'd guess the wheat malt is at least somehow responsible for parts of the syrupiness)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14240" LastEditorUserId="14240" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T05:50:58.413" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T16:38:31.583" Title="What makes a beer syrupy in texture?" Tags="|beer|ale|taste|rye|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18452" CreationDate="2016-10-14T20:23:34.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you are moving from a 40l kit to 160l kit. Things I would be considering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) How am I going to move around 150Kg of water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) What am I going to do with huge amounts of spent grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) What effect will the larger volume have on my fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) What effects should I expect in a larger mash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) What effects should I expect in a larger boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are in the order I would worry about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Get a pump, just get a pump. If it does not come with one get one as soon as possible. maybe even get 2 one to keep as a spare, as there are few things worse than being half way through your sparge and the pump cutting out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Many options here: compost it, turn some into granola, feed it to pigs/chickens or chuck it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) With a 170l fermenter you may end up with slightly elevated temperatures during fermentation vs a 40l FV due to the lower surface area to volume ratio, but you will likely have not too many problems so long as you have a stable temperature where you store the FV, you may find you have to keep the area you store your FV in a couple of degrees cooler to compensate but likely you will have few problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also are you going to use dried yeast/liquid yeast, 6-8 packs or are you going to culture up a starter and pitch that. I would suggest for the first couple just buying the extra yeast, but once you feel confident on the new kit it can be great fun doing mini fermentations to build up some healthy yeast for a pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) In a larger mash you should expect it to retain temperature better over the 60min of the mash and I found I got better conversion by about 5-10%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) In a larger boil I got slightly better alpha acid utilisation, beers started coming out slightly more bitter and I had to cut back a a little on bittering hops to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T20:23:34.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18458" CreationDate="2016-10-14T20:31:31.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally the temperature of the mash can give a thicker consistency to the beer as you move from 63-68 degC for you mash temperature the high you go the more dominant alpha-amylase will be. This cleaves off unfermentable tri-saccharides (three unit sugars) which give a full mouth feel, where as beta amylase which is most active ~63-64 degC cleaves single glucose molecules off the starch chains, giving highly fermentable wort and thinner bodied beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also sometimes diacetyl can lend a buttery/butterscotch like syrupy feel to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T20:31:31.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18392" CreationDate="2016-10-14T20:54:02.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not bother trying to rescue it at this point, you could leave it 6 months as see what happens often the wine will mellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I would leave it in the bottles and serve it with lemonade or similar, or I would use it to cook meat in, or enrich a sauce, or to mix with olive oil for a salad dressing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put it down to experience and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T20:54:02.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18453" CreationDate="2016-10-15T02:29:00.837" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to look at a beers ingredient list and derive an exact recipe from it. You have to go through a process of trial and error, using any information you can get from the manufacturer combined with experience or intuition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, the good news is that you probably won't have to do that yourself, because its highly likely someone else already has. Copying a commercial style is usually referred to as &lt;em&gt;cloning&lt;/em&gt;, and for many beer styles you can simply google &quot;commercial beer style + clone&quot;. Depending on how popular that beer style is, there might be a large number of recipes out there, or there might be a few dedicated people who have done all of the trial and error for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=samuel%20adams%20boston%20lager%20clone&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&amp;amp;client=firefox-b&amp;amp;gfe_rd=cr&amp;amp;ei=ZJABWLy-K8HN8gfUj6ow&quot;&gt;search&lt;/a&gt; for the Samuel Adams beer you linked to produces a few good leads and a fair amount of discussion. Sometimes its better to get discussions rather than straight recipes because it will help you to understand what is needed and why certain ingredients and processes are favoured over others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homebrewing forums usually have whole subforums dedicated to cloning, and the various homebrew software packages usually have ways of sharing recipes online to make it easy for others to find (BeerSmith for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, some recipes may use an all extract approach, some may use all-grain, and some may use a combination. So it's probably best to find a recipe that suits your experience and equipment. If you are just learning about homebrewing and have no idea how all-grain differs from all-extract, then you should read John Palmer's 'How to Brew' which is &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/introduction&quot;&gt;online&lt;/a&gt;. It covers everything a new brewer needs and then some. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably advise brewing from basic recipes before you get into cloning. Because once you have a fair amount of experience under your belt from that, you'll understand all the nitty gritty details like when to add which hops and how that will affect the beer etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14230" LastEditorUserId="14230" LastEditDate="2016-10-15T02:35:03.227" LastActivityDate="2016-10-15T02:35:03.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-15T10:09:58.570" Score="1" ViewCount="1455" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the key points to consider when using a conical fermenter to drain the yeast and leave only clean beer?&#xA;My goal is: removing yeast, with&#xA;(a) few loss of beer, (b) have beer not remain with yeast particles (potentially caused from the turbolences of the yeast removal process itself)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just some short time ago I bought a 115 liters conical bottom fermenter in stainless steel. A main intention of this purchase was to reduce both workload and losses of beer when it comes to separate the fermeted beer from the remaining yeast cake, before botteling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally there is a valve at the very bottom of the cone, which when opening should help to drain the yeast, leaving only beer (at best without causing any sort of &quot;cloudiness&quot; or &quot;haze&quot; from turbolences). &lt;strong&gt;Unfortunately it does never seem to be the moment, that all the yeast was removed.&lt;/strong&gt; The liquid drained from the bottom valve, after being initially thick, quickly turns liquid, yet is still of a &quot;dirty with yeast&quot; color and NOT clear beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess something I do is not ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it is crucial (cannot be done elsewise) to have the fermenter being chilled down to a certain temperature? (yet I would think that the yeast should always be at the bottom, from my experiences with other fermenters, even at not extra cold temps.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe to open the it lower &quot;yeast drainage valve&quot; to be opened, it is indispensable, to have the airlock of the fermeter removed, so that no pressure build up or air enters through the lower valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14242" LastActivityDate="2016-10-15T17:11:12.793" Title="How to reduce beer loss when dumping yeast using conical fementers?" Tags="|fermenter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18463" CreationDate="2016-10-15T15:11:35.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only bad part about stainless fermentors, is your blind at this stage of the brew process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally the fermenter will have a drain on the very bottom. Use this port to dump the trub after primary fermentation. This makes room for the yeast to settle during secondary and fining stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be a second port about 1/3rd up the cone bottom. Ideally with a Triclover racking arm. A sight glass on the line will allow you to rotate the arm down to just above the yeast cake. Rotate down until you see haze in the glass then back up to a clean level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally everything below the racking arm is considered a brewhouse volume loss, but it can be collected and fined in a glass container via cold crash and added to your keg or bottled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-10-15T15:11:35.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18463" CreationDate="2016-10-15T17:11:12.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second everything EZ has said. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a rotating racking arm so here is what I do and it works well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to this - I try to dump the yeast the day before I want to rack, some of the yest still clings to the sides and drops down over night then in the morning I drop the extra bit of the yeast. Leave it about 30 mim to settle then rack off the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-10-15T17:11:12.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-16T18:43:24.987" Score="0" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into making a Graff and just out of curiosity I'm trying to look into the history/origin on the drink. All resources seem to be flooded with information about the Dark Tower series. I would think it's something that people would have brewed in the past even if it wasn't given a unique name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any information on this drink as a historical style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14244" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T20:41:27.473" Title="Origin of Graff/Malted Cider" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18201" CreationDate="2016-10-17T13:24:47.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would consider leaving it a bit longer to sit and age in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had similar results before where a couple of weeks after bottling there has been terrible head formation and retention, then at about the 6 week mark the character of the head completely changes, something oxidises or breaks down and hey presto head formation occurs. Doesn't always work but I have had this happen in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low IBU beers will more often have head formation/retention issues vs high IBU beers as alpha acids act to stabilise the foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final thing to check is that you have thoroughly rinsed your glass before pouring, as any residual detergent from dish-washing will kill foam faster than anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T13:24:47.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18315" CreationDate="2016-10-17T14:49:46.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0064OG6AO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; not working?  These are 1/2-Liter, but I'm sure you can find other sizes.  Also recommend a visit to your local homebrew store.  If you're buying in bulk, they may have a discount, plus you support local business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: So the title includes the restriction of &quot;glass&quot; but the body of the question does not.  So if you are looking for glass bottles, with twist off action, the answer is no.  Buy a $8.00 capper and enjoy.  Otherwise the link above to plastic bottles works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13945" LastEditorUserId="13945" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T15:01:40.970" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T15:01:40.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18453" CreationDate="2016-10-18T17:43:07.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phantomcanyon.com/brewery/current-brews/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phantom Canyon&lt;/a&gt; used to give very detailed information for select brews like malt percentages, yeast strains and techniques (mash temps, adjuncts). That was not too difficult to translate into a very accurate recipe. But, I haven't seen one like that since they updated their website look a while back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T17:43:07.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18471" CreationDate="2016-10-19T02:25:46.300" Score="1" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;G'day all - a question on brightness and clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've started fermenting a kolsch using Wyeast 1007, which doesn't floc easily. I intend to fix this by adding finings at the start of the conditioning - as I drop the temp it should help the solids fall out of suspension and into the trub. Am I on the right track here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I should add this is mine and my brother's first go at an extract brew, after years of on-again off-again brewing out of cans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14217" LastEditorUserId="14217" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T04:30:21.483" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T13:18:58.767" Title="Kolsch on a low floc yeast" Tags="|yeast|secondary-fermentation|conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18470" CreationDate="2016-10-19T08:18:03.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may not have to add finings if you drop the temp and cold crash it.&#xA;There are many ways to clarify your beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filtering possibly the fastest method&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fining using isinglass or similar to artificially flocculate the yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold crash drop the temp to about 2C/36F and the yeast will mostly drop out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time and Gravity this is by far the slowest method but will eventually drop most yeast out of suspension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need the beer clear in 3 days then add finings, if you have a month to condition then I would leave it for 25 days and if still not clear then add finings. You may find you don't need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T08:18:03.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18476" CreationDate="2016-10-19T14:33:12.400" Score="2" ViewCount="1091" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a batch of mead fermenting and I'm a bit confused about the bottling process for a still mead. I would like to know the steps/process for treating the mead before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I add the sodium metabisulfite immediately after fermentation or cold crash first?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When should I add the fining gelatin? Should I rack it a number of times before adding the fining?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the mead have to be degassed before bottling? Would I degas in the carboy? (I have a vacuum pump to do this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14148" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T11:08:55.730" Title="Mead Post-Fermentation and Bottling" Tags="|bottling|mead|fining|clear|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18470" CreationDate="2016-10-19T17:25:37.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that cold will help.  When you think it is done fermenting, drop it down to around 0C (32F) and hold it there and that should drop out your yeast, plus most people feel that this kind of cold conditioning is beneficial for Kolsches.  If you're kegging, then you are good to go.  If you are bottle conditioning, then you might want to add back a small amount of yeast at bottling time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T13:18:58.767" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T13:18:58.767" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18453" CreationDate="2016-10-19T22:47:13.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some breweries will give you their malt bill as a percentage.  In this case, you're going to want to use software.  You know the ABV (it's normally listed) and the percentage of each of the grains.  Some software will let your select your batch size (ie: 5 gallons) and you can then enter the data you know (which grains and their percentage) and adjust the amounts until you get your desired ABV.  A word of caution though... if you're making an IPA, the hops will be the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another, more unconventional method would be to read (and reread) the book Designing Great Beers and try to emulate the beer you want to duplicate.  Doing this, there are only 3 options... you succeed, you fail miserably (dump it out or give it to friends who wouldn't know the difference) or you fail spectacularly (this is when you actually have a beer that you like more than the beer you were trying to make).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T22:47:13.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-20T03:13:41.500" Score="1" ViewCount="3733" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time brewing and I didn't know that I had to take an initial reading prior to fermentation.  I used my own apples to make cider.   Can I still get an estimate on alcohol content?  I think it's about done fermenting as it's been in the bucket for a little over a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a reading and have 1.35 specific gravity, 4% potential alcohol, 8% sugar (Balling) on my hydrometer. Bucket reads 68%.    The brew smells yeasty, but I did not taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14253" LastEditorUserId="14253" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T03:49:09.963" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T14:39:43.830" Title="I didn't know I had to take a reading before fermentation. I crushed my own fruit so no kit to use for calculation" Tags="|first-time-brewer|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18472" CreationDate="2016-10-20T11:08:55.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I make meads we don't add metabisulfite or gelatin.  Cold crashing and racking once post the crash is usually enough to create clear mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mead should be degassed along the way of fermentation, which tends to help fermentation along.  In this case, though yes you want to degas before bottling.  I'd recommend degassing in the primary unless you are sure your fermentation is done (gravity check).  If there still are some sugars to ferment you'll want to be on the yeast when that happens.  Racking away from the yeast and degassing will make it hard to finish it out.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are in a glass carboy I wouldn't use a vacuum to degas.  Just like I wouldn't put a glass carboy under much pressure in a beer situation.  I use a wine whip on a drip to degas.  It stirs the mead up vigorously  and the gas come out that way.  It also stirs up sediment which is why you don't normally want to have to do this when you are trying to clear the mead in a second or third racked carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T11:08:55.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18478" CreationDate="2016-10-20T11:41:49.133" Score="1" ViewCount="5008" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing my first brew from a kit. I added the yeast to the wort (according to the instructions I have). In the first day or so, nothing happened. In the second and third days, the airlock was bubbling intensively. But after about three days, the bubbling stopped. Does this mean something's wrong with my yeast? or is it okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14254" LastActivityDate="2018-10-14T11:28:53.947" Title="Bubbling has stopped after 1.5 days. Is my fermentation okay?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18477" CreationDate="2016-10-20T11:57:48.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the temperature is steady around 68-72F, then it's probably fine. Often, the vigorous fermentation you saw does dramatically slow after 2-3 days. So relax, have a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the temperature dropped to the mid-to-low 60s, then it possibly stalled and you should try and slowly raise its temperature. Take it off the basement floor, or place it in a temperature-stable closet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13302" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T11:57:48.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18475" CreationDate="2016-10-20T13:16:04.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is some rather complex math that can calculate an OG, but requires a hydrometer and a refractometer reading post fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewzor Calculator (android app) and Beersmith have these formulas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in your case you could estimate using an OG of 1.040 which is typical for Apple juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T13:16:04.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18475" CreationDate="2016-10-20T13:19:26.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might be a duplicate here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10823/how-to-calculate-alcohol-without-og-reading&quot;&gt;How to calculate alcohol without OG reading?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that there is a formula using your Specific Gravity from a hydrometer and if you pick up a refractometer, a measurement from that, that you can use to calculate the ABV.&#xA;Jump to section &amp;quot;Measurement of ABV&amp;quot; at &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/item/1313-refractometers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brew Your Own&lt;/a&gt; for the formula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV = [277.8851 - 277.4(SG) + 0.9956(Brix) + 0.00523(Brix2) + 0.000013(Brix3)] x (SG/0.79)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this equation, Brix is the Brix reading of your refractometer and SG is the specific gravity reading from your hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try this, it is important to take very careful readings. Degas the sample in a blender or by pouring it between two glasses until it does not foam. Make your reading at as close to 68 °F (20 °C) as possible. If your hydrometer is calibrated in Brix, use the longer formula I cited earlier to convert it to SG. This equation fits very well with the data points. Measure-ment of ABV can be made to within 0.3% if you are careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13302" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T19:26:01.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18475" CreationDate="2016-10-20T16:36:22.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apple average about 45 ppg, so it should be pretty easy to get a ballpark estimate of your OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T16:36:22.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18458" CreationDate="2016-10-20T16:38:31.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using today's highly modified malts, mash temp makes a lot less difference than it used it.  I'd say it's the rye.  I have made many, many rye beers and as the % of rye rises, the beer gets a thicker, more intense mouthfeeel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T16:38:31.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18477" CreationDate="2016-10-20T18:47:29.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure that this has been mentioned hundreds of times on here and other web sites but I'll say it again... an air lock that isn't visibly bubbling isn't an indication that fermentation is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's take that sentence apart and look at some of the reasons why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermentation may have slowed and you're not seeing a bubble during the time you're watching.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stuck fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CO2 is escaping through another route (like around the bucket lid)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All three of these.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, aside from not seeing active bubbling, how can you tell when fermentation is over? The generally accepted way is for your gravity reading to be the same for 3 days in a row (you would normally see this at or very near your predicted FG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, so what do you do if you don't have a way to measure gravity? Let the fermenter sit there for a MINIMUM of 10 days.  It won't spoil or go bad as long as the two enemies of beer (light and oxygen) aren't introduced.  C02 is heavier than Oxygen, so part of the natural process is that Oxygen won't be introduced (don't slosh it around) and as long as you're fermenting in a dark room, light shouldn't be an issue (opening the door and looking won't hurt it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T18:47:29.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18436" CreationDate="2016-10-21T08:00:48.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know many wine and cider brewers like to use NA/K bisulphite in brews. I have no real idea why one would use it at the start of a brew as (in my experience) it reduces &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; fermentation including that of the introduced yeast as well. One might use it at the end of fermentation to reduce/stop further biological action (&quot;as a preservative&quot;) once all required fermenting has been done - but I still don't agree it is necessary. Bisulphite is not the most useful of chemicals for a human to ingest and I would personally shy from using it in any foodstuff. If one must use something then I would begrudgingly advise using potassium sorbate. But in preference I would use nothing and let the natural process complete naturally. If one is really convinced that unwelcome wild yeasts or bacteria (eg lactobacilius) are present then I would recommend the &quot;correct&quot; method - pasteurisation at 60 degree Celsius- to remove or reduce their activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However having added the bisulphite there is no reason why one cannot add more yeast to see if it improves the situation. Its just that the added yeast might itself be stymied in action by the added preservative. As apple cider is normally fermented and conditioned for a long time I would add yeast, leave it for some months and then re-investigate to see what happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However for the next brew I would recommend pressing and lightly (gauze) filtering the juice and then adding an active yeast solution quickly thereafter. I would not add any preservative at all but if I did it would be at the end and not the start of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But whatever, I hope the cider turns out well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T08:00:48.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18453" CreationDate="2016-10-21T15:50:43.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can do is go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this recipe builder&lt;/a&gt; and try entering all of the information you have, such as ingredients and batch size.  It will calculate the information you requested (expected OG, FG, ABV, etc.).  They also let you buy the recipe once you've calculated it, but the tool is still useful even if you don't buy the recipe.  Some of the options may be a bit advanced, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T15:50:43.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18453" CreationDate="2016-10-21T17:36:25.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the other answers say, you can go off the experience of others and use trial and error to dial in a recipe. I agree with them, but I also highly recommend Ray Daniel's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewerspublications.com/books/designing-great-beers-the-ultimate-guide-to-brewing-classic-beer-styles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Designing Great Beers&quot;&lt;/a&gt; for advice on how to go about formulating your own recipes. Since buying this book in 1998, I have only followed other people's recipes a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T17:36:25.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-22T02:27:38.703" Score="3" ViewCount="1590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 5 gallons of apple cider that I an trying to ferment with 10 lbs.of clover honey 3.5 lbs. brown sugar to make cyser.the OG is 1.172 PH 3.6 and I can't get to ferment!I found out there is potassium sorbate in it.Is there anyway to get it to ferment I have put a lot of money in it .Can anyone help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14256" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T18:08:01.037" Title="Is there anyway to overcome thef potassium sorbate in apple cider to make it ferment" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7607" CreationDate="2016-10-22T09:54:50.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this exact same problem with my brewing controller. I don't have the entire answer as yet, but I have found that the ctl period will not go to a short time when the P value is a lot longer than the control period. Set the controller back to default values and it will allow 4 seconds for Ctl. (The amount doesn't appear to be linear, but is around P&amp;lt; ~200ctl for ctl=4. I reduced P and got the controller to do 1 second control periods and even 0.5 if I set P to 60 or less. Unfortunately, the auto-tune found a setting that worked very accurately, but had a 38 second control period that means the element could be too hot below the mash and I won't be able to use any settings to limit the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14265" LastEditorUserId="14265" LastEditDate="2016-10-23T09:40:11.367" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T09:40:11.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18490" CreationDate="2016-10-22T13:55:43.690" Score="3" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been toying with the idea of adding roughly a gallon of white grape juice to a beer (possibly a Belgian Blonde?) but was previously told that the juice will just be completely fermented out by the yeast, leaving me with a lighter bodied beer but with no flavor from the juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after researching cider more it seems that many people do ferment store-bought juice without issue. I've even found some references to people successfully adding juice to beer. So overall I'm a bit confused at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not necessarily looking for a huge fruity flavor in such a beer but I definitely want it to be noticeable. Have other people had success using store-bought juice in beer (or even cider)? Even if all the sugars get fermented out, wouldn't there still be esters and the like that would contribute flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T01:26:41.627" Title="Adding store-bought juice to beer" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18489" CreationDate="2016-10-22T14:38:20.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the label ingredients. If it mentions Metabisulfide as a preservative it will kill fermentation. Otherwise you should be all right. Add the thawed concentrate to save volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14266" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T14:38:20.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18487" CreationDate="2016-10-22T15:09:29.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to get that monster on a very active pitch of yeast.  I'd recommend getting a couple packages of yeast going in a gallon of wort.  Once its at its peak of activity I'd pitch it into this cider bomb.  If there is preservatives in your cider source, you can over come the preservative to an extent with a large pitch of ACTIVE yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a batch of beer that's done fermenting then rack the cider onto that cake and keep it warm 70-72F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T15:09:29.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18453" CreationDate="2016-10-22T16:39:26.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to cloning is understanding how scaling and efficiency affects your particular home based brewery.  As mash, kettle and fermentor sizes increase so does the effective outcome of each process on the end result.  If your new to all this the best advice is to use an online recipe calculator, like Brewers Friend, keep good records, and remember it's as much about the process as it is about the recipe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14267" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T16:39:26.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18489" CreationDate="2016-10-23T01:26:41.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a concoction using welches white grape juice and sugar for a 12%abv. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To defeat the preservative I had to add a massive amount of yeast and several hits of oxygen. I forget the preservative name but it inhibits yeast growth by absorbing oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T01:26:41.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-24T03:08:55.353" Score="1" ViewCount="1722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was brewing an English mild with an estimated IBU of 16. Followed the recipe exactly (I can post if needed). Added to the carboy and used a filter funnel to make sure the hops didn't make it into the carboy because in the past I didn't do this and had this same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation went well and my gravites are exactly what the recipe showed. But when I went to bottle and check for FG I also sampled and it's EXTREMELY bitter. Any ideas why this might have happened so I can avoid this in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14113" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T19:13:38.537" Title="Extremely bitter beer" Tags="|bitterness|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18497" CreationDate="2016-10-24T17:26:44.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While beers can be very bitter to taste soon after fermentation they will mellow with age and become less bitter. I made an insanely bitter DIPA some time back and thought I had made a really bad mistake in brewing it. After 8 months it was considered one of my finest brews by friends who sampled it. So beers that are initially very bitter, perhaps too bitter, will become very drinkable with time. Modern, commercial beers are brewed to be consumed quickly but a well conditioned ale is a thing of beauty! It takes time. Few brew recipes mention the point and many drinkers seem to think it a crime to drink beer more than 6 months old. Wine drinkers, on the other hand....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If however the brewer thinks the beer too bitter then the hop bill must be adjusted to suit.And that adjustment must be as the ingredients change (eg harvest to harvest or batch to batch). If one is lucky to have 25Kg sack of hops in the freezer then it should be simple enough to run a few brews and get the required taste repeatably. But with different supplies or suppliers the bitterness/taste can &quot;wander&quot; around the desired point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were the hops used higher in AA than those used by other brewers? Were the hops fresher or older as age can affect the bitterness greatly? And indeed as others point out, liquor water higher in sulphates will give the beer that famous &quot;Burton tang&quot; accentuating the bitterness? Was any late or dry hoping used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe posting the formula/recipe and method would give and insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I note that Saaz hops were swapped for sterling. That is the probable cause of the excess bitterness. Saaz are a &quot;noble hop&quot; with low Alpha acids (eg 2%). whereas Sterling are usually quoted as higher AA - eg 5%-6% Alpha acid. So these are not directly interchangeable, or not without &lt;em&gt;pro-rata&lt;/em&gt; adjustment in quantity. I imagine half the amount of hop used would have produced more equal results to Saaz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as I said before - this hoppy bitter beer is entirely within the bounds of possibility. Bottle and leave to condition for a month or two (or longer). You will probably wonder why you even questioned its quality!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T11:24:16.957" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T11:24:16.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18497" CreationDate="2016-10-24T18:53:44.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As indicated in the other answer, your primary culprit is probably the hops. Alternately, if you don't know your water chemistry makeup, you could be experiencing excess sulfate - your sulfate-to-chloride ratio has a very heavy effect on the perception of your hops and malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly advise reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/VUKd4igAABcrKdWe/article/brewing-water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;John Palmer's article&lt;/a&gt; about brewing water, or even better, buying the book. If you don't have a water chemistry setup, homebrewtalk has a lot of water profiles that people have posted - yours might be one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, you can always send a water sample to Ward Labs to have it analyzed. With a good knowledge of your water chem, you should be able to isolate any other problems you have with taste and Ph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14278" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T18:53:44.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18300" CreationDate="2016-10-24T19:35:57.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A short google search reveals: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.motherearthnews.com/real-food/make-elderflower-wine-zmaz74zhol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to make Elderflower Wine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There really isn't that much difference between what you did and the recipe described in the article. Yes; if it has sugar, yeast can turn it into ethanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as you created less-than-ideal fermentation conditions (lack of proper nutrients, not enough o2/ppm, unknown cell count), the production of methanol, fusels and all other less-than-ideal alcohols would actually &lt;em&gt;increase&lt;/em&gt; - so, you may have inadvertently created hangover fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, the vinegar may contain acetobacter, so it might eventually turn into vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14278" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T19:35:57.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18466" CreationDate="2016-10-24T20:00:53.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you've said, the lore has it that Graff originates from the Dark Tower series. Hence, the name Graff, which was said to be a light, refreshing, apple-based beer. IIRC there's even something about maltiness, which led to the 'creation' of the style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you're looking for something older than the series. For this, we need to find a recipe of an apple beer, brewed or published prior to June 10th, 1982 - the publish date for The Gunslinger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick-ish search of the Google-ator doesn't reveal much, however there are a few things that we can determine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Graf (or graff) is a fruit beer.&#xA;-Fruit beers have been around 7000BC&#xA;-While rare-ish, Pomme isn't an unknown lambic ingredient. Lindemann's makes one, but they first made it commercially in 2005.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like it would be a fun project to do more intensive research on. The conclusion that I'm led to, based on what's available to me at the moment is that, while it existed &lt;em&gt;a priori&lt;/em&gt;, I find no evidence of commercial variants prior to the last 10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14278" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T20:00:53.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18475" CreationDate="2016-10-25T18:16:57.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your 1.35 above should be 1.035. Most of the time, my apple cider is around 1.045-1.050 SG at the start, so if you plug that into the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alcohol By Volume ABV Calculator&lt;/a&gt; with 1.035 as your ending, it comes out to around 1%-2% alcohol respectively. That abv seems low for cider though, as without adding sugar in mine, I consistently have 6-8% abv once the first fermentation is complete, and around 10-13% abv if I added extra sugar.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would only rack it and consider first fermentation complete, after the airlock only produces one bubble or less per minute, instead of waiting a certain period of time like a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your initial fermentation isn't complete and needs to continue (I usually leave mine 2 weeks or so, around 55-60 degrees)as the abv seems low at 2%, though there are many factors that could affect that, temp, yeast type, initial yeast pitch, etcetera. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest doing the bubble count before disturbing it. The only way I can think of that would have your initial fermentation complete, and that low of abv, is if the apples were really low sugar, or the fermentation has been stalled. But I am no expert, just know my experience thus far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14280" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T14:39:43.830" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T14:39:43.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18497" CreationDate="2016-10-25T19:13:38.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other answers. The target AA was 2.7% I've seen Czech saaz range up to 6%. If you still have the package you can check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that good balance residual sweetness. If you're over attenuated, the bitter will be perceived more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T19:13:38.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18510" CreationDate="2016-10-25T22:31:30.617" Score="1" ViewCount="2905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to adding different hop additions after the boil.  I'm not sure of the difference between recipes that cite &lt;code&gt;add hops (whirlpool)&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;add hops (flameout)&lt;/code&gt;.  What's the difference?  With flameout it seems I would simply add the hops after the boil, let it sit for 30 min or so, then chill.  Is whirlpool the same, or do you actually add hops and create a whirlpool effect?  And, if so, how do you actually create the whirlpool and for how long?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, with only 4 brews under my belt (2 all-grain, 2 partial extract), this seems to raise a red flag over the post boiled wort being exposed to the air.  All of the books and articles I've read stress to chill the wort as fast as possible to pitch before any airborne bacteria can get into your wort.  Sometimes it seems different brewing techniques contradict one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T13:41:23.587" Title="Whirlpooling vs. Flameout (Knockout)" Tags="|fermentation|beer|hops|techniques|wort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18511" CreationDate="2016-10-25T23:05:19.170" Score="3" ViewCount="574" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a batch of wine that seems to have been contaminated and has the sulfur smell that is characteristic of H2S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly I can't sell or give away this wine, but is it still safe to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14281" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T14:50:34.283" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T14:50:34.283" Title="Is H2S poisonous in wine?" Tags="|wine|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18505" CreationDate="2016-10-26T02:24:17.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people use sulfur dioxide (SO2 – sulfur bound with two molecules of oxygen) to stabilize the wine, i.e., to stop any fermentation and make the wine less prone to infections. A quick web search for &quot;sulfur in wine&quot; comes up with plenty of examples for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you don't want a sulfur taste. Different people react differently to sulfur; some may just dislike it, others may get a headache, and yet others may not notice it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how you got that flavor in your wine. It could be from anaerobic digestion, maybe in an overfull fermenter with no access of fresh air to the wine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably try pouring the wine from one bucket to another, splashing quite a bit to aerate it. Repeat after some hours, for a few days. See if that makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T02:24:17.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18509" CreationDate="2016-10-26T03:01:40.753" Score="1" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting out on homebrew beers, made some all-grain recipes already and I want to try some new recipes, but, where I live is very difficult to find liquid yeast, and almost all recipes (mainly on beersmith) uses liquid yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look into the yeast to find a good dry yeast substitute to the liquid one in the recipe? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14282" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T21:35:11.660" Title="How to substitute liquid yeast in recipe" Tags="|beer|yeast|recipe-formulation|dry-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9906" CreationDate="2016-10-26T05:42:48.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;1028 is my favorite strain and I've used it dozens of times. Not once has the smack pack ever swelled full. In fact I would be surprised if it swelled more than 60% full. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the sulfuric smell, I have never experienced that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1028 in my experience takes a bit longer than other yeasts to peak; but 24 hours without activity is not something I have witnessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T05:42:48.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18507" CreationDate="2016-10-26T07:53:51.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ignore yeast in the recipe. If you can't get it, you can't get it. Look for dry yeast that meet what you need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most yeast have &quot;good for&quot; style list. Choose one that's good for your style.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alcohol tolerance must be equal or higher than you expect in your beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature range you can actually get.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these three, you should get good enough results. For most precise results, you can also try to match flocculation and attenuation with suggested yeast, but that's optional - and probably these will already match, because they depend on style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T07:53:51.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18504" CreationDate="2016-10-26T13:41:23.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These two hop addition timings are quite similar. Your guess about flameout is mostly correct, adding the hops right after you turn off the heat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whirlpool refers specifically to a strategy to transfer wort into a fermentation vessel that is meant to leave behind most of the trub. &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/body/item/1581-what-does-whirlpooling-your-beer-mean-and-how-do-you-do-it&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BYO has a more detailed description&lt;/a&gt; of how it works for professionals and homebrewers. In short, stirring the wort in one direction quickly, and allowing the wort to settle before transfering will leave a significant amount of the solids behind. Whirlpool would be to add the hops just before beginning to create the whirlpool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your instincts about wanting to chill the wort quickly are correct. In addition to avoiding contamination, when adding hopes at either of these timings it is not expected for the hops to steep for long. They are meant to extract delicate oils and flavors from the hops that can destoryed by high heat and/or overpowered by other hops flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T13:41:23.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18505" CreationDate="2016-10-26T16:16:05.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from how of putting hydrogen sulfide is, unless its super high it really shouldn't be terribly toxic as far as consuming the wine goes.  But its probably not worth the trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this link to the sources and causes of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lallemandwine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/WE-7-H2S-production-by-wine-yeast.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;H2S in poor fermentation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T16:16:05.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-26T17:41:05.407" Score="1" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a saison and added lemon zest for the last five minutes of the boil.  At the time, it seemed like a lot of lemon zest, but I was following a recipe.  The beer was in primary for a week, secondary for a week, and in bottles for two weeks.  When I tasted it, I could not detect any lemon at all - not in the smell or taste.  However, when I rinsed out the bottle with hot water, the lemon scent became extremely potent - almost like Lemon Pledge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Is there something unique about lemon zest that would have caused this effect, or did I simply not add enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T22:38:08.283" Title="Why is lemon zest undetectable in my beer?" Tags="|boil|flavor|saison|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18512" CreationDate="2016-10-26T22:38:08.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the aromatics went volatile in the boil and was then gasses off in fermentation. Leaving only oils that manifest aroma at warm temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try the zest as a secondary addition, or a flame out addition or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also there could be other flavors and aromas over powering the zest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T22:38:08.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18517" CreationDate="2016-10-27T16:37:25.323" Score="1" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I re-hydrated my US-05 at 40C ( 105F ) going by this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SL92Bd4kfbQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SL92Bd4kfbQ&lt;/a&gt;. However afterwards I read the on the Fermentis site that it should have been at 27C (+/-3). Apparently it's different depending on the yeast and I should have gone by Fermentis' instructions but would I have done any harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T16:44:01.157" Title="Rehydrated US-50 at 40 C" Tags="|yeast|dry-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18516" CreationDate="2016-10-27T16:44:01.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's close, but I think you'll be OK.  The commonly cited temp to kill yeast is about 114F.  That's a generalization, but hopefully the yeast will survive.  FWIW, despite manufacturer's recommendations, I find no difference between rehydrating and not rehydrating.  A very experienced friend who runs a homebrew shop advises his customers not to rehydrate due to situations like yours.  This experiment adds data to the point that it doesn't matter....&lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2014/09/15/sprinkled-vs-rehydrated-dry-yeast-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2014/09/15/sprinkled-vs-rehydrated-dry-yeast-exbeeriment-results/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T16:44:01.157" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18520" CreationDate="2016-10-27T21:09:51.377" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the first all grain I made, it's a coconut porter and seems like some grains made it through. This is right before I transferred to my secondary fermenter, I know you can't tell much by only a picture but just an overall impression if this looks normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/89xW0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/89xW0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Coconut Porter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14287" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T22:06:10.727" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T22:07:59.100" Title="Does this look contaminated?" Tags="|beer|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18507" CreationDate="2016-10-27T21:35:11.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, liquid yeast shouldn't be used without making a starter to get the cell count up (and the second generation will have thicker walls).  Yeast vials are notorious for having low cell counts.  If I lived in an area where yeast is hard to come by, I would exclusively use dry yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reality is that all ale yeast is Saccharomyces cerevisiae (lager yeast is a different species but the same genus).  What else is Saccharomyces cerevisiae? bread yeast.  I'm not saying that you should use leavening yeast to ferment your beer but if you reserved some wort from a pale ale and added some baking yeast, washed the yeast and did it again, by the third or fourth generation, you'd have something very similar to American Ale yeast.  You could do a little experimenting to see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T21:35:11.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18518" CreationDate="2016-10-27T22:07:59.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks fine, rack to secondary and grab a bit to taste if it tastes fine then you have most likely avoided any significant bacterial contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smell first, if it smells off don't taste it.&#xA;Taste it, if it tastes fine then it is good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T22:07:59.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2816" CreationDate="2016-10-27T22:46:51.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimier: I am not a legal professional and this is not legal advise just my understanding of the law, I suggest you take professional legal advise if you wish to sell alcohol in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really quick answer &lt;strong&gt;NO you can not sell your homebrew in the UK&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home brewing is for personal use only. No one will arrest you if you give out a couple of bottles to your mates to take home, but it is still illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to have a license to produce and hold beer, approved by HMRC. Since April 2016 to sell beer as a wholesaler you need to be AWRS registered. Furthermore to sell to the public you have to have a personal license, and the premises from which you are conducting business need to be licensed for off or on trade as appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From deleted questions/comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;section 175 of the licensing act 2003, which allows you to conduct a raffle with alcohol as a prize in some circumstances&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but this alcohol has to be duty paid you can't just hand out home brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Don't sell alcohol, sell raffle tickets in an “everyone is a winner” scenario&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HMRC got wise to this and clamped down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T22:54:26.737" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T22:54:26.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-28T01:35:02.427" Score="1" ViewCount="678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a Chocolate Oatmeal Milk Stout with an OG of 1.062. After 2.5 weeks of what seemed like active fermentation, it's only at 1.030. It's been at that for a week. It tastes like a it will be a good stout, but the FG seems high. There is 1 lbs. of lactose in there, which might be the reason the gravities are higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastEditorUserId="13998" LastEditDate="2016-10-28T02:26:40.087" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T05:40:31.603" Title="Is this final gravity too high?" Tags="|fermentation|original-gravity|stout|final-gravity|lactose|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18522" CreationDate="2016-10-28T03:18:28.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really can't say how the lactos is effecting the gravity with out the whole recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very likely it can finish out the remaining points with some time and warmth. Bring it up to 70°F and give it a swirl to stir up the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.030 is only a few points off from the high end of a sweet stout's FG of 1.024. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-10-28T05:40:31.603" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T05:40:31.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18525" CreationDate="2016-10-28T19:00:02.717" Score="2" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I a small batch of 1-gallon that I'd like to force carbonate rather than prime it in bottles.  Is it ok to force carbonate?  I realize I may be wasting some CO2, but I'm ok with it.  If it is ok, do I need to change the pressure that would carbonate a 5 gallon batch with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T20:22:52.623" Title="Can a keg a 1 gallon batch in a 5 gal keg?" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18524" CreationDate="2016-10-28T20:22:52.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is ok. But I really recommend filling the keg with statsan, then purge with c02, then add the beer into the out port of the keg, releasing the pressure by opening the safety valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not there's a lot of oxygen in there to oxidize the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also do not shake to force carb with that much free space, you will foam the whole gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T20:22:52.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18528" CreationDate="2016-10-29T20:40:00.353" Score="3" ViewCount="1748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just measured the final gravity of a Belgian beer I've been brewing and it came out 4 points below the expected according to Beersmith: 1.022 rather than 1.018. It was 14 days in the fermenter. I should say that I haven't controlled the gravity throughout the fermentation so I'm not sure it finished. Now, my issue is that Beersmith's database marks the T-58 with a 71-75 range but Fermentis sheet says 70%. According to my measurements (OG 1.078, FG 1.022)  Beersmith's says that the calculated attenuation was 70%, which is spot on with the value in the Safale's sheet. Could Beersmith's values be wrong or could I be missing something here? I'm a novice so apologies if I don't make much sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13162" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T17:56:08.010" Title="Beersmith Safale T-58 attenuation" Tags="|yeast|attenuation|beersmith|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18527" CreationDate="2016-10-30T17:23:21.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's many factors that effect attenuation. The %s are a ball park under normal conditions, factoring average unfermentables and ABVs. &lt;em&gt;In theory all yeasts are capable of 100% attenuation of the fermentable sugars up to their ABV tolerance with a lot of nurturing.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case 4 points off may not be that far out of scope. If the sweetness is balanced it may be fine as it is. If not you can try a warmer secondary fermentation to finish out the few points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T17:23:21.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18527" CreationDate="2016-10-30T17:56:08.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The attenuation rating of a yeast is meant for comparing one yeast to another and is not necessarily an indication of the attenuation you can expect  That is far more dependent on the fermentability of the wort.  Using the same yeast but changing the wort, I can easily get anywhere from 65-85% attenuation.  Beersmith is doing nothing more than making a guess.  If it's off a few points it's no big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T17:56:08.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-30T22:32:00.113" Score="3" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 30 minutes of mashing, I checked the temperature at it was 142F/61C. I added 3/4 gallon of boiling water and brought the temp up to 155F/68C. It maintained between 152-155 for 60 more minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mashing at different temperatures causes different enzymes to be more activated than others, and that these enzymes break down the starch differently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By mashing too low for too long, have I forever altered the composition of the sugar molecules in my mash? Or will stabilizing at the correct mash temperature and holding for 60 minutes result in the same composition as it would have been had I did this originally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T10:24:49.583" Title="Is it possible to recover from mashing at an incorrect temperature by stablizing the mash temperature for a longer duration?" Tags="|mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18530" CreationDate="2016-10-30T22:37:58.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you had a short beta mash and stepped to an alpha. The result is a more fermentable beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing with mash, you can't get beta action if your mash starts to high. Because the higher temps denture beta-amylase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's fine to step up a mash temp, but stepping down does little because how the enzymes respond to temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T22:37:58.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18532" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-30T23:33:59.960" Score="4" ViewCount="2632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started a kit based IPA, but am experimenting with my own hops. I have been reading about reducing the amount of sediment, as the ciders i have made recently, have  had about 5 - 6mm of sediment on the bottom of the bottle, I would like to avoid this with my beer if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on leaving the beer in the primary for 1 - 2 weeks after fermentation is complete before bottling, and then using carbonation drops in each bottle. Will there be enough suspended yeast in the beer after 2 weeks to carbonate? If so, roughly how long will carbonation take at &quot;room temperature&quot; (20 - 22c).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other steps i can take and still get a carbonated beer with reduced sediment. (Keg and forced carbonation are not options).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12922" LastActivityDate="2016-11-06T15:40:49.447" Title="Reduce sediment in bottle for IPA" Tags="|beer|bottling|bottle-conditioning|sediment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18532" CreationDate="2016-10-31T00:23:26.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to minimize the sediment. You can clairify the beer in fermentation secondary, cold crash etc. This beer will usually be free of much of the suspened yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add a your sugar drops and a few grains of Champaign yeast to each bottle, they should carb nicley and have minimal sedimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though it's not an option for you. Kegging is ideal if you want complete control over the clarity and carbonation level. You can bottle off a keg fyi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-11-06T15:40:49.447" LastActivityDate="2016-11-06T15:40:49.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="558" CreationDate="2016-10-31T07:12:25.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your wine or whatever has slowed down, you could warm a little of the liquid up and put in a couple of teaspoons of sugar. Melt the sugar and then add to the wine and this should increase the fermenting process. Leave for twenty four hours and then check. If there are no bubbles within half an hour the fermentation is finished. It can be complete in three weeks. Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14296" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T07:12:25.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18530" CreationDate="2016-10-31T10:24:49.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically no.  You can't mash longer at the correct temperature to correct for the 30 minutes at a lower temp.  It doesn't mean the beer isn't any good but the composition of the sugars are going to be different than if it was all done as you intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said you probably won't even notice the difference in the finished beer.  Your wort may be more fermentable than you planned but that is probably a good thing most of the time.  You essentially step mashed at two very reasonable temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T10:24:49.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18532" CreationDate="2016-10-31T11:44:22.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll never remove the sediment at the bottom when bottle conditioning. 5-6mm is not a terribly large amount of sediment either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few methods that can reduce the sediment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/fermentation/using-secondary-fermentors&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;secondary fermentor&lt;/a&gt;, typically a 5-gallon carboy. This is used after primary fermentation, and has little to do with fermentation despite the name. It removes the beer from the yeast cake (trub) and therefore lots of sediment. A secondary is also great for dry-hopping if you're doing that for this IPA. 1-2 weeks in the secondary is an acceptable amount of time, but longer is totally fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewingstoredirectory.com/8-things-you-should-know-about-cold-crashing-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cold crash&lt;/a&gt; if you can. This is most effectively done in a fridge for the last few days to cause the yeast to suspend itself to the bottom of your fermentor. I've had luck by placing my secondary in a large container of ice for 2 days and racking into my bottling bucket without moving it, but the amount of ice used and difficulty racking wasn't exactly worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a &quot;no brainer&quot;, but great caution should be taken to not disturb the sediment before racking to your bottling bucket. I like to place my fermentor on the counter I'll rack from a few days before the actual transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use several fining methods/agents to help reduce the sediment, but it is moreso to ensure a clear (as opposed to cloudy) beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whirlfloc/Irish Moss - Used in the last few minutes of the boil, it helps weigh down sediment in your primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/01/05/the-gelatin-effect-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gelatin&lt;/a&gt; - Used in the last few days before bottling, it is often used in conjunction with cold crashing. This might not be the best option as it can pull much of the hop flavor and aroma out of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any of these methods, it's important to note that there will be enough yeast to carbonate. However, the more sediment you separate from the beer using these methods, the longer it will take to carbonate. I've had beers carbonate fully in 2 weeks when using none of the aforementioned methods, but the beers I've cold-crashed with gelatin took 6 weeks to fully carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13302" LastEditorUserId="13302" LastEditDate="2016-10-31T17:21:40.253" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T17:21:40.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18538" CreationDate="2016-10-31T15:21:47.160" Score="3" ViewCount="631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed a chai tea brown ale (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipe/beer-recipe-of-the-week-chai-tea-brown-ale/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recipe here&lt;/a&gt;) -- which has a target OG of 1.048 -- and ended up with an OG of 1.064. My efficiency for this batch hit 78%, which I presume is higher than the recipe expects (I think most recipes assume 70%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means the final ABV will be in the 6-7% range instead of the 4-5% range. I like higher gravity beers, but I wonder if the higher than expected alcohol will put the intended balance of the beer out of whack. In other words, I assume the recipe was formulated such that the final alcohol flavors are milder, allowing, for example, more malt or hop flavors to come through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize: Will having an alcohol content higher than the recipe calls for unbalance the beer flavors? Should one always strive to hit a recipe's target gravities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14298" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T16:01:02.663" Title="How important is it to hit a recipe's target OG? What if my OG is too high?" Tags="|original-gravity|efficiency|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18537" CreationDate="2016-10-31T16:01:02.663" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it will to some extent.  Not only will the higher alcohol affect it, but your beer will also be less hoppy and bitter than you intended it to be.  Yes, you should always strive to hit your OG, but this is homebrewing....sometimes you'll be low or high.  Being high isn't too big a deal because you can always add water to get back to what you intended, at least ABV wise.  Being low is a bit more problematic.  You either have to live with it, or add more wort (maybe boil up a bit of DME) to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T16:01:02.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3082" CreationDate="2016-11-01T05:46:13.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mead generally ages very well and some of the best glasses I've had are from bottles that somebody forgot about.  (The only reason I've never had a mead that's more than ten years old is that it's hard to resist drinking a bottle that's seven years old.)  Even unfermented honey is good several years later, and many meads take several years to develop their full flavor profile.  If you try a batch a year after bottling and it doesn't taste great, see if another year or two improves the outlook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your mead has ingredients besides honey (particularly fruit), the flavor may worsen after several years of aging.  Storing bottles on their side, which keeps the cork wet and therefore a better filter from the outside air, can help avoid developing off flavors as a mead ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14302" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T05:46:13.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18542" CreationDate="2016-11-01T14:48:33.980" Score="4" ViewCount="3399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read many post fermentation opinions/practices. Some move it to secondary after a week, some wait 3 days after fermentation is done and then bottle condition; and many leave it sit on the yeast cake for a period of time to let it &quot;clean up after itself&quot;. I have heard at least one person even report that they've left beer on the cake for a few months! To me this all sounds like something I'd need to experiment with myself but is there any science or common knowledge suggesting a time after which the yeast would be very likely to be finished &quot;cleaning up&quot;? I want to know so that I could determine a maximum length of time for any experimenting - ie I don't want to leave beer on the cake for 3 months if that would likely be a waste of time in most people's experience/opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T22:22:59.420" Title="What is the max time it would take yeast to &quot;clean up&quot;?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|secondary-fermentation|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18540" CreationDate="2016-11-01T15:16:08.607" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaving on the yeast cake for months, is far from ideal and risks autolytic flavours making their way into the finished Product. You can condition in a secondary for a number of months, but you want to do this off the main yeast cake.[1]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding cleaning up by products 3-7 days after FG is reached is more than enough to clean up the main by products left from the main fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT - Apologies if I made this 'clean-up' sound like a different phase in the yeast life cycle that was not my intent. I simply intended to highlight that even after Final Gravity has been reached the yeast are still metabolically active and will break down metabolites, in the absence of sugars, into non-flavour active compounds over the course of a few days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT - Even when yeast enters G0 - stationary phase it is still metabolically active [2] even if it has flocullated out, it will continue to affect the flavour of the beer, until it dies. Even then it will further affect the flavour of the beer by releasing the cell contents into the solution as the cell walls rupture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are then bottle conditioning the product will continue to change and develop until the day it is drunk (EDIT: for myriad reasons; some yeast related). [3]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] J. Inst. Brew., May-June, 1986, Vol. 92, pp. 213-219 213&#xA;CENTENARY REVIEW THE BIOCHEMISTRY OF MATURATION - Charles A. Masschelein&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC372915/pdf/microrev00025-0099.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC372915/pdf/microrev00025-0099.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[3] &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/hops/item/182-beat-yeast-bite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/hops/item/182-beat-yeast-bite&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T22:22:59.420" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T22:22:59.420" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18540" CreationDate="2016-11-01T16:23:16.777" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to info I got from John Palmer for an upcoming article I wrote for BYO magazine, the cleanup happens concurrently with fermentation.  Here's the quote...&quot;Yeast have 3 phases in their life cycle: Adaptation, High Growth, and Stationary. (See Yeast by CW and Jamil) They do not have a maturation phase where they clean up byproducts. Adaptation phase is where they take in oxygen and build sterols and other lipids, assess the sugar composition and build enzymes, etc. Once those activities are done, they start the High Growth Phase, eating and reproducing. The number of cell divisions is limited by their lipid reserves they made during Adaptation. These reserves are shared with each daughter cell. When those lipid reserves are exhausted, the cell stops reproducing. In addition, when those reserves are exhausted, the cell is old and cannot eat or excrete waste efficiently across it’s cell membrane. A yeast cell typically can reproduce about 4 times during a typical fermentation, after that it is old and tired and tends to enter Stationary phase where it shuts down most of its metabolism and flocculates, waiting for the next batch of aerated wort. Stationary phase is essentially an inactivity phase, resting on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, no conditioning phase as far as the yeast are concerned. Byproducts can be consumed at any point during the high growth phase, but they are a lower energy source than sugar, so guess what? Byproducts are not a biological priority. The brewer therefore needs to plan his pitching rate and fermentation conditions such that the yeast run out of fermentable wort sugar before their lipid reserves are exhausted and they go into stationary phase. Now you have a majority of vigorous yeast that have only undergone 2 reproductions (for example), the sugar is gone, and they are still hungry, so they turn to acetaldehyde and diacetyl as alternate energy sources and maturate the beer. You can help this by doing a diacetyl rest by raising the temperature a few degrees after the first half of fermentation, to keep the yeast active and eating. Where in the fermentation? after the first half, 2/3 to 3/4, when most of the attenuation has occured and raising the temperature is not going to cause rampant growth and the off-flavors associated with it. &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T16:23:16.777" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18571" CreationDate="2016-11-01T17:50:52.717" Score="3" ViewCount="1384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mead in secondary right now. It's been there for about three weeks. It spent two weeks in primary. I was given the impression from my source material (The Compleat Meadmaker by Ken Schramm) and limited experience that it would clarify in about a month. It's my first 5 gal batch and I wasn't planning to age it for months on end in the carboy, simply bottle it when it cleared because I want to make a sparkling mead and I'll need active yeast to do that. However, even after three weeks, it's still pretty cloudy with no real discernible amount of change towards clearing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The honey itself is local and was decently filtered and only a little hazy. I've made two previous 1 gal batches with this same honey and simply left it in primary until bottling and they cleared wonderfully after about a month or so. I can still see some tiny bubbles at the surface. Is this evidence that fermentation is still slowly ongoing? I forgot offhand what my finished gravity was supposed to be, but I remember that I thought it was pretty spot on. So I don't know. I'm just wondering, will it ever clear on it's own? What kind of timeline am I looking at? Is this just the result of scale? Or will I have to resort to clarifying agents? Or, because I want sparkling, should I bottle soon to ensure the yeast is still active and it should clarify in the bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14301" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-11-03T14:55:06.110" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T18:03:54.687" Title="Clarifying mead made from raw honey?" Tags="|mead|clarity|honey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4274" CreationDate="2016-11-02T15:40:24.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unpleasant fresh soil as you describe it can be a sign for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flavoractiv.com/products/earthy-beer-flavour-standard/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ethyl fenchol&lt;/a&gt; which is a water contamination issue. I don't think Willamette or any hop for the matter should lead to a result how you describe it but that's hard to say without smelling/tasting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3029" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T15:40:24.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18424" CreationDate="2016-11-02T21:12:58.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first started, I figured I needed to sanitize the living hell out of everything all throughout the brew process. As I've done more and more recipes without incident, I've realized that one need not be &lt;strong&gt;paranoid&lt;/strong&gt; but simply &lt;strong&gt;attentive&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nature is very resilient: those yeast cells you're pitching aren't fragile glass ornaments; they're damn scrappy and will beat out the other microbes every time given the right environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I suggest: keep things clean &lt;em&gt;pre boil&lt;/em&gt;, and only worry about sanitizing things &lt;em&gt;post boil&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Pre Boil&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your equipment and workspace are clean. &quot;Clean&quot; to me means free of visible dirt and grime. Assuming your pre-boil equipment is clean, rinsing to remove any small dust particles, etc. is sufficient.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a 2-3 gallon batch of sanitizer to have handy throughout the brew day. I also recommend using a spray bottle, but the bucket is handy for soaking things, or dumping sanitizer into a carboy, for instance. You don't need to soak for very long; &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/6876/whats-the-minimum-safe-immersion-time-to-sanitize-something-with-starsan#6877&quot;&gt;30 seconds appears to be the magic number&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Post Boil&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-sanitize any sanitized equipment that comes into contact with something not sanitized. The most common &quot;equipment&quot; you should re-sanitize are your hands, since they're touching everything. I like to have a bucket of sanitizer handy so I can dunk my hands before touching, say, my sanitized racking cane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chill the wort quickly. I've let wort chill overnight before without incident, but I think it's a bit risky, since you're giving other microbes a longer timeframe to multiply. Get the yeast in there quickly to give them the best chance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest lesson I've learned around sanitation is that -- while it's important -- you don't need to be as diligent about it as you might think. Give nature some credit. After all, people have been making beer for thousands of years, long before Star San was around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14298" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T21:12:58.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18549" CreationDate="2016-11-03T01:20:30.713" Score="2" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been putting together the following oatmeal stout recipe, going for a kind of jam-on-nearly-burnt-toast sort of flavor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8lb Maris Otter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2lb Flaked Oats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1lb Caramel 120L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1lb Special B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1lb Roasted Barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1oz East Kent Golding @ 60m&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;WLP002 English Ale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that since I'm including 3 pounds of fairly heavily kilned malts/barley that I might end up with an distracting level of bitterness.  Most recipes I've seen close-ish to this use lower lovibond caramel malts and/or less roasted barley.  That said, some also use black barley, so I'm kind of at a loss for whether people just love burnt-tasting stouts or if I'm just over-estimating how much ends up in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this recipe liable to end up being overly bitter/burnt-tasting?  If so, what would be the best things to tweak to reduce that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T14:41:02.040" Title="Potential Bitterness of Using 3 Pounds of Dark Grains" Tags="|recipe-formulation|specialty-malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18547" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-11-03T02:03:39.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clarity is a quality desired by many homebrewers as it plays an important role in the perception of beer, wine, and mead.  Finings (irish moss, gelatin, etc.) are frequently used to collect and remove particulate matter from the product.  Chilling (cold-crashing) can produce a similar effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T22:28:47.300" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T22:28:47.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18548" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-11-03T02:03:39.557" Score="0" Body="The degree to which a liquid is free of cloudiness.  This is often achieved with the use of finings or cold-crashing." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T00:05:32.937" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T00:05:32.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18546" CreationDate="2016-11-03T10:25:35.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't really view the C120 or the Special B as being roasted malts that would contribute significant bitterness issues.  So one pound of Roasted Barley seems spot on and not an issue as far as bitterness is concerned.  I have added more than 2lbs of RB, BP and chocolate in combination and not worried about bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be concerned about using the C120 and special B at 2lbs total.  They are basically the same style malt and are pretty strong together.  I'd be worried about too much raisin burnt fruit character that the beer would seem oxidized before its really got any age on it.  I don't think those two malts play well together.  But to each his own. You should try it and comment back to the post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T10:25:35.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18553" CreationDate="2016-11-03T13:42:20.893" Score="3" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when the mashing process is over and the liquid is transferred to the fermenter there's a head-space of air. Lately I've made smaller batches of approximately 5 liters (a huge inefficiency, i know) but my bucket has 20 liters of volume. So, does this enormous head-space places a greater chance of contamination? If so, how sensitive is this process (like does the amount of air increases exponentially the chances of contamination)?  Tks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T14:55:48.583" Title="Does the amount of air left in the fermenter increases the chance of contamination?" Tags="|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18550" CreationDate="2016-11-03T13:49:44.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the process, it is not sensitive, you're okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, the wort needs oxygen for the yeast to reproduce. As it eats up the oxygen, the yeast will start producing CO2, which is heavier than typical air. CO2 will provide a barrier to any leftover oxygen in the headspace. Just don't slosh your fermentor around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bigger concern regarding oxygen headspace is if you transfer to a secondary. You'll want minimal headspace here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13302" LastEditorUserId="13302" LastEditDate="2016-11-03T14:12:41.067" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T14:12:41.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18546" CreationDate="2016-11-03T14:41:02.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bitter from grains will be mainly from the black barley but wouldn't be noticeable imo because of the residual sweetness from the 120 and SB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a lot of dark grains. Keep in mind the PH plunge in the mash from the roasted grains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T14:41:02.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18550" CreationDate="2016-11-03T14:55:48.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not contamination you should be worried about, but oxidation. More headspace equals more oxygen in contact with your wort. This shouldn't be a major concern during primary fermentation, because the CO2 molecules generated by the yeast purge the oxygen from your fermenter (through the airlock). However, I don't have any experience or data to say just how much CO2 is created during a typical fermentation, and 15 liters seems like a lot of space to purge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/articles/oxidation_in_beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a very good article on MoreBeer&lt;/a&gt; that has some data showing how an increase in headspace dramatically reduces the time to staling (production of undesirable off flavors). The article, and my experience, indicate that oxidation is more of a problem &lt;strong&gt;post&lt;/strong&gt; fermentation, since there is no longer a production of CO2 to drive oxygen from your fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while you should be able to rest easy during primary fermentation -- even with your large amount of headspace -- you should definitely do what you can to reduce headspace to the absolute minimum in secondary fermentation (if you do that) and in bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would, as a matter of good practice, get containers that more closely match your batch sizes. I like to use carboys, since they have narrow necks. I use a 6 gallon (23 liter) carboy for primary and fill it to within 1/2 gallon of the top. I then transfer to a smaller 5 gallon (19 liter) carboy for secondary and try to have no headspace at all. Other brewers may have different experience and recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14298" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T14:55:48.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18558" CreationDate="2016-11-04T00:14:54.327" Score="2" ViewCount="2056" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when I want to take a sample of my beer I open the tap of the fermenter (in my case a plastic bucket) and let drip a little bit of beer (primary fermentation). Does this increase the chances of contamination? Is it safer to open the lid of the bucket and take the sample from above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-11-08T18:17:13.917" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T14:37:14.333" Title="Does opening the tap of a fermenter bucket increase the chance of contamination?" Tags="|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18559" CreationDate="2016-11-04T00:39:07.400" Score="4" ViewCount="1893" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are hops fermentable by beer yeast? Do they contribute in any way to the resulting ABV?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T14:40:40.913" Title="Are hops fermentable by beer yeast?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18565" CreationDate="2016-11-04T03:09:43.793" Score="2" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a stir plate and was excited to make my first 1L starter with it.  I googled the appropriate DME to water ratio and the first two results I found listed 1L to 1lb DME which seemed high but given the two sources I went with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After making the starter and pitching my yeast I started thinking about it more and realized this ratio much be off.  It turned out that the instructions for the first source only called for a cup but listed a pound in the supplies.  The second source was a typo which was corrected further down in the thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided that increasing the size of the starter was the best solution.  I had a 1 gallon jug on hand and decided that adding another liter of tap water would be a decent compromise between having way too large a starter and having one that was the right gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, it seems like I'm dealing with a half-gallon batch of moderate-to-high gravity beer rather than a true starter.  I should end up with way more yeast cells but I'm also going to stress the yeast more than I would have with an appropriate starter gravity.  As such, should I be concerned about pitching this starter?  If it's okay, would it make sense to split it off and keep a pint or so for a future batch or is the larger pitch rate just making up for the stressed yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T13:27:46.243" Title="Risks of pitching a high gravity starter?" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18555" CreationDate="2016-11-04T03:18:15.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not that I'm aware of.  At the very least, in my experience hops are never taken into account as a fermentable sugar contribution so if there is some small amount of sugar present in the hops, it would be negligible enough that no one ever cares to mention it.  And at the levels some people dry-hop I'd imagine we would have started noticing it by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, hops are used in beer to create bitterness and flavor compounds that balance and complement the sweetness created by the malt sugars.  So if they were adding a noticeable level of sugar they'd be working against what is basically the primary reason they're used in beer in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T03:18:15.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18554" CreationDate="2016-11-04T03:33:12.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using the spigot is undoubtedly much safer than opening the lid.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the spigot on your bucket you're basically just creating a hole where the beer can flow out (and only out).  There are some potential sources of contamination here.  The small section of the spigot blocking the flow of liquid will rub against other pieces of the spigot and potential introduce contaminants that it comes in contact with when it is opened once it is closed again.  That said, if you sanitize the bucket and run some sanitizing through the spigot this is probably minimized.  Repeated samples may increase that risk more but unless you're taking samples very early in fermentation (when the amount of alcohol is still low) I doubt you'll realistically have a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you open the lid the situation is much worse.  While you may have some things working in your favor (a layer of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; over the beer, a protective layer of krausen, etc.) you are still opening the fermenter to airborne contaminants (pieces of dust, falling bacteria, your breath, etc.) all of which pose a small threat to your beer.  On top of that, you then have to physically put something in your beer in order to take the sample.  This is not only a risk of contamination but also of oxidation.  Taking your sample quickly with a well-sanitized wine thief or baster/pipette may minimize your risk but is ultimately causing air exchange and allowing a greater surface area of new material to touch your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that said, if you're careful, either way is probably fairly safe.  Plenty of people do both all the time without any issue.  But using the spigot is going to have fewer things that can accidentally go wrong and those are probably smaller risks (assuming equally stringent cleaning and sanitation practices for both methods).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-11-07T02:07:45.110" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T02:07:45.110" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18555" CreationDate="2016-11-04T03:48:06.127" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uvm.edu/extension/cropsoil/wp-content/uploads/2014HopsConference_Shellhammer_brewersperspective.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a presentation by Thomas H. Shellhammer&lt;/a&gt;, professor of fermentation science at OSU, that shows the composition of a typical hop cone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cellulose and Lignin: 40-50%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protein: 15%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alpha Acids: 2-15%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beta Acids: 2-10%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water: 8-12%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minerals: 8%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polyphenols and Tannins: 3-6%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lipids and Fatty Acids: 1-5%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hop Oil: 0.5-3%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Monosaccharides: 2%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pectin: 2%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, there &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; trace amounts of monosaccharides (e.g., fermentable sugar) in hops, but since you're adding such a small amount of hops (say, 2 ounces per 7 gallons of water for a 5 gallon batch), any sugar you get from the hops is absolutely miniscule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while &lt;em&gt;theoretically&lt;/em&gt; hops might contribute some fermentable sugars, they would be in such a tiny amount that I doubt the yeast would have anything extra to feast on, and there would be no affect on the beer's final ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14298" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T03:48:06.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18566" CreationDate="2016-11-04T10:33:47.130" Score="2" ViewCount="389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have decided to buy Chemistry Distillation Apparatus as in this image:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cXvkO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cXvkO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chemistry Distillation Apparatus&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1dWl0LpXXXXbsXXXXq6xXFXXX3/17pcs-lot-Vacuum-distillation-unit-Lab-purifying-plant-Enrichment-facility-available-for-make-wine-brew-beer.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vacuum Distillation Unit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using it to make absinth by following old recipes found on net. You&#xA;need pure ethanol (97%) and soak herbs in it. After few weeks you need to&#xA;distill it, but I am confused with all the foreshots, heads, hearts and&#xA;tails. When you use regular wash, I am sure that during fermenting process&#xA;you get bad stuff and it needs to be thrown. But what in my case when&#xA;ethanol is pure? Do I still need to throw them away (or mix with another&#xA;batch for heads tails)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if I want to have 70% alcohol at the end, do I need to add water to&#xA;still before distillation (ie. half-half so it is 49% abv mixture) so I can&#xA;collect all alcohol but also some watter to dilute it. Or other approach&#xA;would be to use pure ethanol with herb mixture as distillation source and&#xA;when distillation is finished to just add distilled water to distillate.&#xA;What are your toughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14313" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-11-08T22:04:22.247" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T22:04:22.247" Title="Advice needed (Absinth distillation)" Tags="|distillation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-11-15T22:32:50.250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18556" CreationDate="2016-11-04T13:23:32.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming a 5 gallon batch, this over-sized starter will contribute roughly 10% of the volume of your beer. So any changes it makes to the flavor will likely be small and difficult to detect in even the most extreme cases. I wouldn't worry about it, I expect that you can probably pitch the starter without issue. That being said, let's consider a couple concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was the OG of the original recipe? If it was high, then you're better off having a large starter. For high gravity beers it is generally recommended to use starters on the larger side. If it was low, then your starter may contribute noticeably more sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the DME you used similar to the grain or extract you used in the recipe? If so, then you're fine. If the DME is a nice neutral base, or is lighter than you're recipe, then you're fine. However, if you for some reason made a starter with a dark DME to get your hefeweizen going you might have a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother trying to save any of it, unless I was planning on brewing again very soon. That's more about my space than any particular concerns for the health or viability of saving a split of the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T13:23:32.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18560" CreationDate="2016-11-04T15:17:22.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My thoughts are dont make absinthe... Distillation is a dangerous process and if not done right can have potentially fatal consequences. Aiming for such a high level of alcohol increases the risk of potential harm. Distillation is however a fun process and not one that should be avoided! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest starting with something else though, maybe Vodka? And you still need to distill it yes, even if using pure ethanol. You can either add your wastage to your next batch or dispose of it appropriately. I would recommend drawing off at least 10% of your yield. I would personally add water to the still before distillation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14273" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T15:17:22.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18555" CreationDate="2016-11-04T19:21:34.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While hops &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; have a very small amount of sugars in them, it's not enough to make any discernible difference in your beer.  However, they do appear to have diastatic power which could slightly affect your ABV.  That's  a lot of maybes, though.  There was a discussion of that in Episdoe 12 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.experimentalbrew.com/podcast/episode-12-going-stale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Going Stale)&lt;/a&gt; of the Experimental Brewing podcast based on this paper: &lt;a href=&quot;http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.1941.tb06070.x/abstract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;THE DIASTATIC ACTIVITY OF HOPS, TOGETHER WITH A NOTE ON MALTASE IN HOPS.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-11-08T18:16:33.160" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T18:16:33.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18560" CreationDate="2016-11-04T22:03:26.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you are using Pure ethanol (not denatured) you should not have to worry about it, or throw out any of the product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as for getting the ABV you want, you want to mix it after distillation, and not before, the whole point to distill it is to remove the alcohol with essential oils and other flavor compounds from the herbs and spices...etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also as User has stated, be careful, distilling can be explosive, if mishandled and you have open flames or sparks around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T22:03:26.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18556" CreationDate="2016-11-05T13:27:46.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Just cold crash the starter, decant the beer off and pitch the yeast slurry.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main function of a starter is to grow yeast to a proper cell count for your batch. It's actually pretty hard to over pitch and get bad results. The only negative to an over pitch is it will have less yeast ester profile in a beer, which can be bad if the style depends on those esters. Saison, wiesse, Belgian etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A secondary use and type of a starter is to pitch a proper cell count while it's at high krausen to reduce lag time. But this type of starter takes much more care so the starters beer doesn't introduce bad flavors. So it's temp needs to be controlled as you would in fermentation. Most importantly the starter wort should be very similar to the final beers. I've abandon this practice because to do it right takes a lot of time to prepare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T13:27:46.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18560" CreationDate="2016-11-06T06:52:57.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have witnessed absinthe being made in Mainland Europe from mash production to final green spirit - in its entirety. Double distilled herbs collected from the wider locality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making absinthe from one's one naturally produced alcohol is not at all dangerous if one has any ability and is sensible to the risks of the situation. These are mainly physical risks and not biochemical. For example distilling alcohol is a dangerous fire risk but if done carefully and in a suitable location such risk can be minimised. The risk of producing methanol in any amount from mash or fermented sugar solutions is abysmally low. Aldehydes and Fusel oils maybe but not methanol. That usually arrives as an adulterant - either to denature &quot;Methylated spirit&quot; or because some uninformed person does not know the difference between &quot;wood alcohol&quot; and the real stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However to produce any higher proof alcohol one does need a fractionating column attached to the top of the distillation vessel. In the (very) small scale setup pictured this would be a glass column about 150-300mm tall with some &quot;inner structure&quot; to promote fractionation (separation) of the water/alcohol vapour. This is needed because water and alcohol form a azeotropic mixture (they also form a eutectic mixture so freeze distilling is equally inhibited) which make producing high percent proof alcohol difficult. Some moonshine producers distil off alcohol solutions with a high salt content as the salt is thought to &quot;restrain&quot; the water vapour. Along with the column, a thermometer at the top of it is a useful addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once one has some authentic high proof ethanol the first herb infusion can start. Over the course of some weeks, the anethol oil is dissolved out of the aniseed and other flavouring and some colouring compounds from the other herbs. This mixture is then filtered into the distillation vessel and the wet herbs are usually washed with a small proportion of (hot?) water - eg 30% of alcohol volume. That water may well turn &quot;milky&quot; from dissolved oils. The added water also aids the distillation process (allows some steam distillation of the dissolved flavouring compounds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second distillation is usually collected in 3 fractions. The lights, the main and the feints. The first part of the distillate (the &quot;lights&quot;) is collected in a container until the top of the column gets up to about 78 deg Celsius - YMMV. This is then put aside and a new collection vessel used to receive the main body of the alcohol. The trick now (I am told...) is to maintain a slow and steady heat producing a easy rolling boil in the distillation vessel. That allows the fractionation column to do its job more efficiently and make higher grade alcohol. As the distillation progresses one notices the temperature at the top of the column begin to rise towards 100 degrees, signifying more water vapour and less alcohol is coming over. Time to collect the third and last fraction - the &quot;feints&quot;. This often contains some faint green colouring and can be very bitter to taste. The feints are often added back into the next batch. There is no need to keep the feints or distil beyond the main liquor if doing a a small scale distillation. The target ABVis about 80% alcohol. I am told spirits above 60% ABV will do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the second infusion is made over the course of some weeks. Although the herbs are usually in dried form, some fresh herbs will lower the ABV by water extraction and even the dried herbs can lower the ABV very slightly. So very high ABV is necessary for the second infusion. Colour and bitterness come from the second infusion so get the fresh and dried herb mixture right. Some recipes add everything at once, others add ingredients to the infusion over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually the liquor is filtered off the herb base and set aside to settle. The herbs obviously contain some alcohol BUT DO NOT ATTEMPT TO WASH THIS OFF (with water) AND ADD TO THE FINAL PRODUCT. The final product is just filtered, allowed to settle and decanted to bottles. Best Absinthe is over 70% ABV and regularly attains 80%. That is why it is usually watered down before drinking although I prefer sipping it very gently at full strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, a lot of nonsense is written about thujone as the active/poisonous ingredient in Absinthe. It comes from the added wormwood (Artemesia absinthia) and is one of the distinctive flavours of good absinthe. As it is of a good Vermouth. And indeed there is far more of it in the herb Sage than in wormwood. And no one thinks sage tea is poisonous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-11-06T06:52:57.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6938" CreationDate="2016-11-06T07:12:39.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For brews with high OG I recommend leaving the beer un-measured for 14 days then take a few daily measurements if you want to check progress. A temperature of 18-20 degC is perfect for yeast ferments. I would not personally aim to ferment above 24 degC (or even 22). Racking off to a secondary vessel after &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; 10 days fermenting is sometimes useful to facilitate clearing and to promote a slightly sharper taste. As other note there is no need and little reward in trying to do anything too quickly. &quot;More haste - less taste&quot; is my maxim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless it really tastes like vinegar I would always bottle or keg a brew. It usually improves with age and &quot;undrinkable&quot; beers are often perfect after 6 - 8 months conditioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-11-06T07:12:39.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-07T05:06:49.753" Score="1" ViewCount="1005" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have honey of unknown specific gravity.&#xA;I want to mix a mead must with a target specific gravity g_t and volume V_t.&#xA;How do I determine how much honey to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7915" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T05:06:49.753" Title="Determine honey density and needed volume for target starting gravity" Tags="|specific-gravity|measurements|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18568" CreationDate="2016-11-07T05:06:49.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Determine gravity of honey&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combine a known volume V_w of water with a known volume of honey V_h. measure the gravity of the mixture and denote that quantity g_m.&#xA;The gravity of the honey g_h is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;g_h = (g_m (V_w + V_h) - V_w) / V_h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you mix 1 gallon of honey with 2 gallons of water and measure a specific gravity of g_m = 1.14, then the specific gravity of the honey is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;g_h = (1.14 (2gal + 1gal) - 2gal) / 1gal = 1.42.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Volume of honey for target starting gravity&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given a target total must volume V_t, and target starting gravity g_s, the volume of honey V_h needed is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V_h = V_t (g_s - 1) / (g_h - 1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if we want V_t = 5 gallons total must volume with starting gravity g_s = 1.1, then the volume of honey we need is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V_h = 5gal (1.1 - 1) / (1.42 - 1) = 1.2gal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7915" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T05:06:49.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18434" CreationDate="2016-11-07T05:32:11.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The high temp will have encouraged the yeast to work faster - like proving bread; the warmer the spot, the quicker it rises. The yeast will be tired but still working, albeit a little slowly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14217" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T05:32:11.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18543" CreationDate="2016-11-07T21:19:32.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of questions/comments in there, so I'll try to address them below. A quick &lt;strong&gt;tl;dr&lt;/strong&gt; though: It will probably clear eventually, but the 5-gallon will probably take longer than the 1-gallons. If you can cold-crash it, it will speed things up. You can try clarifying agents, but they may mess up your plan to bottle carb. I don't know, though, I haven't tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was given the impression from my source material (The Compleat Meadmaker by Ken Schramm) and limited experience that it would clarify in about a month. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran into the same problem with the Compleat Meadmaker starter recipe. I ended up bottling way too soon, and those bottles now live in the fridge, so they won't harm anyone. For all the information in that book, it can be pretty vague in spots. Sometimes these things are clarified later on in little, one-sentence comments that are easy to miss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, even after three weeks, it's still pretty cloudy with no real discernible amount of change towards clearing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three weeks in secondary isn't all that long, for a standard, traditional mead. When I made that recipe, it took about 9-12 months before I declared it ready for consumption. It's still good mead, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can still see some tiny bubbles at the surface. Is this evidence that fermentation is still slowly ongoing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily. Unless you actively degassed during primary, there is probably still a bit of CO2 in your mead. This will slowly dissipate over the next few weeks. If I remember correctly, though, that recipe has you rack early and it finishes out slowly over the next few weeks. The only real way to tell if it's still fermenting will be to check your gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering, will it ever clear on it's own? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What kind of timeline am I looking at? Is this just the result of scale?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as it takes. Yes, larger batches take longer to clear naturally, in my experience. The amount of other particulate in your honey also matters. For example, I had a 3-gallon batch of mead from a super-waxy honey that refused to clear after about 3 or 4 months in secondary, even though my 1-gallons of the same recipe cleared in ~1. I bottled it, assuming it would just be waxy. 2 months later all the bottles were crystal clear, with a decent amount of sediment on the bottom. FYI, if you heated your must, it can take a little longer to clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] will I have to resort to clarifying agents? Or, because I want sparkling, should I bottle soon to ensure the yeast is still active and it should clarify in the bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want it to be sparkling, then you should not use clarifying agents, unless you plan on kegging and force carbonating. Of course, you could always try to cold crash it, if you have the means to refrigerate a 5-gallon carboy. Also, keep in mind that if you've hit your yeast's ABV limit, then it may not carbonate when you add priming sugar or honey later on. Of course, there are solutions to that, if that's the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, if you're concerned with the timetable on this one, don't get discouraged. While you wait for that to clear up, try some other beginner recipes to learn some more techniques, like staggered nutrient additions (SNA) and back sweetening. The BOMM (Bray's One Month Mead) and Joe's Quick Grape Mead are good, quick starter recipes that can help you build a base of techniques that you can carry over to other recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastEditorUserId="8203" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T18:03:54.687" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T18:03:54.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18578" CreationDate="2016-11-07T21:56:21.560" Score="1" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing a Diabolo beer from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brouwland.com/en/pdf/056.059.9.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, my OG was 1.070 (vs 1.075 recommended).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after 9 days (they recommend 10 days in primary fermentation), the FG is 1.018. The recommend value is 1.010. I will not do the secondary fermentation, and currently I don't see any activity in airlock. After the read of the FG I decide to wait some more days to bottle. However, the temperature in the start of fermentation is 25ºC and now only 16ºC (A sudden drop in temperature in my area). I don't have any way to control the temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only idea I had was to roll a blanket to the fermenter to raise a little the temperature. This makes any sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, if the FG remains around 1.018 can I bottle anyway? Or can be dangerous when priming (explode bottle)? What should I do to low the FG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14322" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T12:09:18.970" Title="High FG in primary fermentation" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|primary-fermentation|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18572" CreationDate="2016-11-07T23:34:30.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It kinda depends.&lt;/strong&gt;  You have to know a little about your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation achieved 74% apparent attenuation, which is about average for most yeasts.  Is yours capable of more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ABV of your beer is about 7.5%, which might be on the medium-high side.  What's the alcohol tolerance of your yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging by the beer stats alone you are probably okay to proceed with bottling.  The beer might pick up a little extra CO2 over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T23:34:30.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18577" CreationDate="2016-11-07T23:53:22.297" Score="1" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 10 litre cookpots; one of which I've been using for brewing. I've been working with an 8 litre boil and a 12.5 litre batch size. I want to purchase a 23 litre extract kit. The kit includes 2 x 1.5 litre liquid malt extract cans, along with steeping grains and hops. If I do an 8 litre boil I know I will have darkening of the work and lower hop utilisation. I don't really care too much about the colour at this point, but would the hop utilisation be seriously affected, or would it be fairly minimal, and would this affect more the bitterness, or the flavour. Also would those be the only problems or might there be other issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also considered doing two boils side by side but I only have one sink to chill the work ( using ice around the pot ) .... so I wonder if I put one boil on 20 mins after the other and did it that way would that be better than doing a single 8 litre boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there's a method of topping up 12-18 hours later but this would not work for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kit&lt;/strong&gt; - maybe something like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/hbc-full-extract-american-pale-ale-23-litres-p-1781.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HBC Full Extract American Pale Ale (23 Litres)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2016-11-08T22:25:38.040" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T08:58:16.153" Title="Is an 8 litre boil too small for a 23 litre extract kit?" Tags="|extract-brewing|boil-kettle|partial-boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18540" CreationDate="2016-11-07T23:57:09.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are a couple things yeast will clean up after fermentation.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We do sensory analysis for two off-flavors during fermentation: &lt;em&gt;diacetyl&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;acetaldehyde&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diacetyl occurs when alpha acetolactate (AAL), a byproduct of fermentation, is exposed to warm temperatures (however conversion happens slowly at cool temperatures).  Diacetyl is classic fake-butter smell that many people are sensitive to.  The yeast will consume diacetyl towards the end of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When our beers have reached a stable terminal gravity we do what is commonly called a forced-diacetyl test.  Two samples are taken from the fermenter.  One is heated to 140° F to force the conversion of AAL.  Both samples are then chilled to drinking temperature and compared.  I am blind to diacetyl, but some of my sensory crew are sensitive.  If the beer fails diacetyl we let it sit another day or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetaldehyde is produced during fermentation as an intermediate compound in the conversion of glucose to ethanol.  During a normal fermentation the yeast will consume the compound.  Its signature green-apple flavor is a sure sign of an anemic fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetaldehyde will clear out given time with healthy yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T23:57:09.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18574" CreationDate="2016-11-08T07:22:09.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the extract recipes I've brewed have been 'half-boil' recipes where approximately a third of the LME is added to the steeping liquid plus a few (4-5) extra litres of water for the boil. Boil then proceeds according to recipe, but less volume. The rest of the extract is then added when increasing volume and dropping temp ready for pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, have never had a problem with lack of hops flavour doing it this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about splitting a full boil into 2 parts, never tried it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14217" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T07:22:09.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18574" CreationDate="2016-11-08T11:58:56.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend NOT boiling the malt extract. There is absolutely no point in doing so. The extract is already sterile and at best only needs pasteurisation which can be done by dissolving the extract in several litres of near boiling water in the fermentation vessel when making up the wort. The flavour comes in the main from the steeped grain and hops and the un-fermented malto-dextrins of the malt extract.There is not much point in boiling roast grains either. Just put the grains in a suitable sized pan (or pans) and add boiling water. Allow to stand as preferred but 30 minutes is usually enough. Then strain into the fermentation vessel/bucket. Rinse grains with more hot water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many kits come with pre-hopped extract but some come with leaf/pellet hops and the hops usually need boiling. This is simple enough and can be done in a suitable sized pan (8 litres is good) by boiling with water for the required amount of time (eg 1 hour). Any timed hop additions are done in the usual way - just add hops to the boiling water at the required time. At the end of the boil time, strain the &quot;hop tea&quot; into the fermentation vessel and perhaps wash the hops with more boiling water. This is a good time to add the malt extract. When all (inc any sugars/syrops) is stirred in and dissolved, add cold water (and maybe some more boiling water) to reach the required volume and temperature in the fermentation vessel. When all ready and at correct temp - pitch the yeast. I recommend making an active yeast starter solution up with sugar in a suitable bottle some hours before brewing. If the yeast is bubbling then it can be added. If not get some more yeast!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I and others now use this extract method all the time and it produces great beer with less effort, less energy, and more safety. The cooling is done efficiently and rapidly using water (eg from a tap or in a bulk mineral water bottle) Boiling malt can be a dangerous thing, is at best difficult to clean up, is at worse a real scalding danger and for all of that does nothing for the final taste of the beer. Have a go - you won't go back to boiling it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2016-11-09T08:58:16.153" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T08:58:16.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18572" CreationDate="2016-11-08T12:09:18.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Wait a bit longer, prime and bottle anyway&quot; - is my minimal advice. Leave for some months to condition the beer in the bottle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally would try racking off the brew into a secondary fermentation vessel and leave for some more days. 10 days is not long in fermentation terms. I always leave my beers to ferment for 14 days and often bottle at 21 days or more. So there is nothing abnormal in what you see. Starting at 25ºC and now fermenting at 16ºC is OK. I would consider 25 too warm for long term fermentation but the first few days might produce a richer flavoured ale.  16ºC is not a bad temperature for standing/final fermentation and clearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suppose that after some longer conditioning this beer will be fine. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T12:09:18.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18554" CreationDate="2016-11-09T14:37:14.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going to build on Denny Conn's comment above, by saying that I've found it bad practice to ferment in a bucket with a spigot at all.  Cleaning and sanitizing the spigot, and all its parts, of my bottling bucket is a tricky task.  The spigot comes apart in strange ways and has multiple places that bacteria can hide and sour a beer I have fermenting in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When transferring to a bucket post ferment, with a spigot for bottling, the beer will have a % alcohol that will prevent bacteria from spoiling things, especially with such a short contact time.  But to dump wort and yeast into a bottling bucket is asking for trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggest you use a spigot-less bucket to ferment, and only use one with a tap for bottling.  Obviously, your spigot might be a different build than mine, and might be easier to sanitize, but most I've seen are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13945" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T14:37:14.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18582" CreationDate="2016-11-09T15:18:35.403" Score="1" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello :) It is the first time I try to cultivate hops, and I'm not a homebrewer. I started planting about 1000 plants of Cascade and I made analysis to my hops. Now I have the analysis but I have not idea if they are good or not, because I don't know if it's better an high value of alpha acid or low. Could you help me, please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pob3c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pob3c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14326" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T11:44:17.420" Title="Need help to understand my hops analysis" Tags="|hops|growing-hops|alpha-acids|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18581" CreationDate="2016-11-09T16:12:10.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An instant reaction to this analysis is &quot;Good&quot;.&#xA;Hops nice and dry - should be good to store/bag/generally handle&#xA;Alpha acids (which when isomerised add to the bitterness of the beer) are about average for Cascade. So that is good/useful&#xA;Beta acids quite high so there should a good amount of &quot;Cascade&quot; aroma and beta acids to keep the flavour up and improve long term bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T16:12:10.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18581" CreationDate="2016-11-09T17:27:06.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical cascade is 4.5-6 AA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I prefer my aroma hops to be on the low end of the spectrum. So I can use more with out too much of a flame out bittering spike. And don't have to adjust my bittering hops much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all depends how the brewer wants to use them. Higher AA allows a brewer to shift more of the bittering load to late additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all I would still purchase the crop, it all has good application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-11-10T11:44:17.420" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T11:44:17.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9270" CreationDate="2016-11-09T21:55:05.890" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use flaked Maize in an English Blonde ale that I regularly brew. It gives the beer a light body, a colour EBC of 6 and leaves a lovely sweetness and a subtle flavour. In this style of beer it works really well with White Labs WLP 002. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14329" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T21:55:05.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13204" CreationDate="2016-11-10T15:54:33.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with the coil and build the box around that.  How would you build the box? I'd build it out of 1/4 inch plywood (sometimes called Luan or underlayment) in 2 pieces, so that one will fit inside the other with a foam core in between.  Then, fiberglass the inside of the inside one and the outside of the outside one, covering the gap. drill the hole for a drain and for the faucet and install the hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T15:54:33.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18587" CreationDate="2016-11-10T15:57:44.523" Score="2" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I washed some yeast ( US 05 ) from my last brew; and I now have 3 jars of yeast which separated out nicely overnight. They're around 2/3 yeast, 1/3 liquid at the moment, with no trub as far as I can see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use one of these next week and I'd like to know how  much to use, so I went on to Mr Malty's calculator ( re-pitching from slurry tab ). There's a slider for &quot;yeast concentration&quot; which alters the result considerably. I know that within a week I definitely wont have a &quot;Thin Slurry&quot; at the lower end of the scale but how close to the upper end of the scale ( &quot;Thick Yeast&quot; ) would I likely be considering it will be a week settling in the fridge - or how would I go about estimating this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fl0Fw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fl0Fw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T17:20:01.553" Title="How would I estimate yeast concentration of washed yeast for Mr Malty's calculator?" Tags="|calculations|repitch|pitching-rate|yeast-washing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18586" CreationDate="2016-11-10T17:20:01.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without doing a cell count using dye, microscope and hemocytometer. You really won't know the viable cell count. Otherwise it's all just guessing based on apperances and volumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just pitch a single jar in 5gal and get on with life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T17:20:01.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18589" CreationDate="2016-11-11T03:55:07.783" Score="3" ViewCount="1544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made two batches of hard cider back to back earlier in the year and they tasted great for the first two months after bottling. However, they turned into a sour mess around month three. Imagine dropping a warhead or two into your batch. It was a slightly disgusting taste. It definitely wasn't a normal, apple-y sour taste you'd expect. If this taste was  much stronger I could almost compare it to an acidic vomit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out WHY this happened so I can avoid it in the future. There was no visible signs of contamination. The cider itself smelled fine as well. The only problem was the strange, candy-like/fake (not sweet!) sourness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My process was very simple on purpose. No chemicals or additives outside of BTF Iodophor to sanitize when needed. I wanted it as &quot;organic&quot; as possible. This stuff wasn't going to be around too long... I thought. Sugar water was added to the bottles themselves to get natural carbonation during bottling. I did add habanero peppers to one batch but they both had the sour issue anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apples bought from the store and juiced at home + .5 cups of sugar per gallon + yeast. This took about three days to ferment in the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cider in bucket pumped to the carboy to sit for about a week to let tannins and bits of apple settle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cider in carboy pumped to the bottles sitting with a few teaspoons of sugar water in them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bottles sat for about a week to ferment and get the natural carbonation (which worked very well).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;We enjoyed the cider from that point on to about two months later. However, it became obvious the cider  (which had all been sitting in the fridge) was becoming sour like weak warheads.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone else know what happened or how I can prevent it in the future? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14332" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T11:59:32.143" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T11:59:32.143" Title="Homebrewed hard cider turned sour after sitting for a few months" Tags="|cider|sour|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18588" CreationDate="2016-11-11T15:27:31.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you went organic alright. Which included a wild yeast on the apples or possibly an acetobacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a big pitch of a aggressive yeast like Champaign yeast helps to insure it's the dominate yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wild yeast can consume sugars that brewing yeasts can't so one trick is to add sugar in hopes the dominate pitched yeast gets the cider above the ABV tollerance of the potential wild yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campden tabs before or even after fermentation helps rid the must or cider of undesirable organisms too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some will even bring the must to a simmer or low boil for a few minutes to kill organisms, but this can drastically alter the must and flavor of the cider. So many true to the craft try to avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-11-11T15:27:31.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-13T04:44:52.010" Score="0" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started a Belgium style ale, about 1.064 og.  After 2 days I go check on it in the fermentation fridge and see that the lid of the bucket has blown open, blown the fridge door open, and krausen was everywhere. I don't know how long it was like this. I obviously closed it up again and closed the fridge. Is the beer still fine to bottle? How do I prevent this in the future? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UWj2g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UWj2g.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T09:35:18.917" Title="My fermentation top popped, is it still salvageable?" Tags="|fermentation|problems|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18590" CreationDate="2016-11-13T09:35:18.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would presume the beer is still good to bottle - but leave it (at least) for a full 14 days before attempting to prime/bottle/keg. I have had the plastic lid blow off the fermentation bucket on previous occasions. I put it back on and continued with the brew. Once the beer was a little more sour than I might have liked but it got drunk anyway... The rest was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 days after pitching the yeast, the beer should be fermenting vigorously and so the action of the yeast and hops should keep it relatively free of undesirable micro-organisms. In such situations I remember Belgian Lambic ales. They are fermented in open air with the lid of the fermentation vessel (barrel) removed. They are a popular style in Belgium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermenting Belgian ale in a fridge is a novel idea. I am not certain if cooling adds much to the final product but I always approve of experimentation. To prevent the top blowing/flipping again, the gas must be allowed to escape from the fermentation vessel. So either the bubble trap (or vent) got jammed with krausen or there was no bubble trap and the lid of the vessel had snapped shut. Both situations would allow the pressure to build sufficiently to pop the top. Bubble traps often get &quot;plugged&quot; if the air space above the wort is small. The foam/krausen rises and gets forced into the bubble trap often blocking it (sometimes it blows free and the top stays on). In such a case use a bigger fermentation vessel or brew less beer at a time. If no bubble trap is used then consider fitting one. If the &quot;old school&quot; way of leaving the lid unsealed is used as a venting method then make sure the lid does not (somehow) snap back into place - effectively closing any vent for the CO2 produced during fermentation. Sometimes a bubble trap on top is too tall for a specific place (like a fridge) so, if all else fails, drill a few holes in the lid and cover with a plastic sheet/cap using some tape (on one side) to keep it in place. This is an easy way to let gas out and prevent most stuff dropping in.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T09:35:18.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-13T18:14:36.480" Score="1" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to make a root beer which is both healthy and (to some degree) tasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried twice to make root beer using this recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wellnessmama.com/11392/homemade-root-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://wellnessmama.com/11392/homemade-root-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time was barely drink-able, I had let the ginger bug ferment too long I believe. (I don't drink, but I felt it was fairly alcoholic for a root beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second time was OK, perhaps further iterations will improve but I did everything right as far as I could tell. I think it may be the recipe rather than the method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a recipe that would make a good substitute? Or perhaps feel that this is a good recipe but that maybe I made some errors? That would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I would like to make a Doctor Pepper type recipe, but I am starting with root beer and working my way there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14065" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T17:25:08.480" Title="How do you make a tasty, yet healthy, root beer?" Tags="|fermentation|recipe|root-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18597" CreationDate="2016-11-14T10:52:49.767" Score="6" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my second batch of beer (ever) last Friday night, and in a few days' time I'd like to sample a bit of it so that I can check its gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Provided that I sanitize all of my equipment (siphon, test beaker, hydrometer, etc.), is it safe to return the sampled wort back into my primary fermenter so that it can continue fermentation?&lt;/strong&gt; Or is it not even worth the risk of infecting/contaminating the remaining 4.95 gallons thats already in there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13954" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T15:09:02.140" Title="Safe to return sampled wort to the primary after sampling?" Tags="|fermentation|contamination|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4369" CreationDate="2016-11-14T11:34:26.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere, maybe Dave Line's old book (sorry I cannot credit the author with certainty), that you can invert twist-stopper with rubber washer type bottles and place them upside down whilst they condition.  The trick is to unscrew the stopper part way with the bottle submerged in a bucket of cold water.  The higher pressure in the bottle pushes the lees out and you re-tighten  the stopper.  This technique may work with ceramic wired stopper.  I have never tried it and I do not know anyone whom has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14340" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T11:34:26.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18593" CreationDate="2016-11-14T14:27:52.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read in a few places not to do this as it risks contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do it every time using a well-sanitized &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00BTMWXC6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thief&lt;/a&gt;. I have never had an issue doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it increase the risk of contamination? Sure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it so risky as to avoid? Not to me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13302" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T14:27:52.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18593" CreationDate="2016-11-14T15:07:17.830" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not return samples to the batch.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Risk of infection is very high. Sacrificing this small amount of wort makes life easier and give peace of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sample tubes are difficult to clean. Many are two part and need the base removed to clean properly, and sometimes take effort to reseal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;samples often need to sit awhile to get to a good temp and to degas. All the while exposed to contaminates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hydrometer is delicate so typically we only rinse them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your sampler &lt;strong&gt;does&lt;/strong&gt; need sanitized. But whether you use a baster or a thief, sanitizing the inside is very difficult. But this isn't an issue when wort only travels into it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I use large 50ml pipet, which is glass and can be sterilized by heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I use the plastic tube that hydro meters come in for testing. They use about 1/4 the wort as a two piece tube. So sample sizes are much smaller and no significant volume is missed from the batch, even with several samples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-11-14T20:40:52.613" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T20:40:52.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18600" CreationDate="2016-11-15T11:44:27.160" Score="4" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some 'sugar carbonated' cider with sediment in the bottom of each bottle. I would like to transport the cider via car to another location (for a party).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it likely that moving the cider will disturb the sediment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sediment is disturbed, how long will I need to leave it at the new location before the sediment will re-settle? (Hours / Days / Weeks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do other cider makers do if they decide to transport home brew cider for consumption?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14343" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T08:39:46.203" Title="Moving bottles with sediment" Tags="|bottle|sediment|transport|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18598" CreationDate="2016-11-15T11:53:21.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on how well settled the sediment is to begin with.  The key is to keep the bottles upright so that the surface of the liquid remains in the confined space in the neck.  Assuming normal flat roadways, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long it will take for the bottles to settle back down if they do get stirred up is subject to how stirred up they get and how dense the material getting stirred up is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd expect to let them rest a couple hours for the best chance of &quot;re-clearing&quot; but that's totally subjective.  Depends on too many factors to really know for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-11-16T13:32:35.050" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T13:32:35.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18598" CreationDate="2016-11-15T21:19:44.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a neat article about the Beer clarification process: &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/bock/item/2838-clarification-of-beer-advanced-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Clarification of Beer: Advanced Brewing &lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article is about beer, but they derive a rough formula estimating it will take about 88 hours for yeast to settle 1 meter in beer. If the the yeast is only disturbed to a height of .1 meters is should take around 8 to 9 hours to settle. Cider is less dense than beer so it will settle slightly faster (maybe 7 - 8 hours). So the less it is disturbed the faster it will settle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article also has some suggestions to speed it up. Warmer liquids are less dense so the sediment settles faster. You could also use g-force to force the sediment to the bottom of the bottle, but that could end poorly... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13826" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-11-23T08:39:46.203" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T08:39:46.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18598" CreationDate="2016-11-15T22:34:40.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make bottle conditioned beers all the time and have never (touch wood) had a problem with them clouding up during transportation. Unless you are hauling the over dirt tracks in the back of a truck you should have no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T22:34:40.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18592" CreationDate="2016-11-16T05:07:27.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1⁄4 ounce dried sassafras root, bark (optional)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1⁄4 ounce dried birch bark&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1⁄4 ounce dried sarsaparilla root&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1⁄8 ounce dried licorice root&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 inch piece gingerroot, grated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 split vanilla bean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 quarts water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 cups molasses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 cup honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1⁄8 teaspoon active dry yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(optional: 1/2 a jalapeno chili pepper, for some extra anti oxidants, and make the flavors pop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat half the water, and add all spices, then bring to a boil. As soon as it it boils, remove from heat. You don't want to extract too much tannins from the woody parts of the spiced roots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let this steep for 90 minutes. Strain through cheese cloth into bucket or other vessel where you will ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add the cold water, molasses, and honey. the colder it is, the better. You want to bring the temperature down to about 64F. If you can, shake it up a bit, and get some oxygen in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you wait for the temp to drop, hydrate your yeast. Take some water of 65F and sprinkle the yeast on top. do not stir. Let it stand for 10 minutes. Gently swirl the rest of the yeast onto  the liquid. Once the liquid is cool enough, pitch the yeast. Leave container with your liquid in cool dark place for 6 days. Cool, being roughly in the region of 64-66F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Voila. If it seems like fermentation has stopped, you can add 4 teaspoons of white sugar, then bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not much sugar will remain. Not from the honey, molasses, or sugar. The yeast will consume most of it, and there is not enough sugar in this recipe to make it highly alcoholic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14146" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-11-16T17:25:08.480" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T17:25:08.480" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18604" CreationDate="2016-11-16T17:10:35.980" Score="3" ViewCount="755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on doing some SMaSH beers; mainly so that I can get more used to the characteristics of the various hop varieties; and also maybe keep the cost down a bit while I'm experimenting. Up to this point I've used specialty malts in my (two) extract brews. Obviously the bonefide SMaSH beer recipes don't include speciality malts; but I know I could always do a single hop beer and just use some specialty grains if I wanted to — though I do like the idea of using the SMaSH concept to identify the flavours of the malt extracts too, but I don't want to make a lame beer at the same time. You hear people all the time saying how terrific this and that SMaSH beer taste, but if that's the case why do we use specialty malts at all? I know a lot of it is for colour but is that it? ... or is the flavour imparted by the specialty malts in a typical extract brew not enough to really worry about leaving out, or are we depending more on the flavour hop addition to make up for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How necessary are specialty malts in an extract brew?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T13:41:31.993" Title="How necessary are specialty malts in an extract brew?" Tags="|flavor|extract|smash|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18603" CreationDate="2016-11-16T17:29:51.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer this question, let's examine a few things that we know.  For the most part, DME or LME (particularly, the light or pale) is made mostly from 2-row barley malt, which is notoriously flavorless (I know that you can buy Maris Otter Malt Extract).  Secondly, compared to DME and LME, the steeping grains that are used in extract brewing are very cheap. Thirdly, unless the label specifies that your extract is purely one type of malt, you have no assurances that it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, what exactly is the extract?  It's ONLY the sugars extracted from the grains.  You're not getting much of the flavors or proteins from the grain, that's where your steeping grains come into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that said, you have a few choices to make your SMASH...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use only Extract (LME or DME), but that would be fairly hollow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steep the base malt as well as using a specific extract.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brew the grain All Grain with a friend who brews All Grain (I would personally recommend this and use something like Golden Promise or MO).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait until you're brewing All Grain before attempting this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not trying to dissuade you from doing a SMASH, but the adjunct grains are important to add body to your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T17:29:51.420" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-16T18:00:36.270" Score="1" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only started brewing Wine a year ago and have been keeping the subtle complexities of making a good wine as simple as possible, only to level up when I feel confident. So, consequently I've only been brewing wine from fruit concentrate.&#xA;From what I've learned about the various reasons why secondary fermentation is needed when brewing with fruit, I don't see the benefits of racking into a carboy prior to bottling, other than letting the particulates settle, which, with time will occur anyhow.&#xA;Can anyone enlighten me of a minute point I've missed, or shed light on a small detail I've missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13288" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T18:18:16.793" Title="Secondary Fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18603" CreationDate="2016-11-16T19:17:31.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume when you describe &quot;specialty malts&quot; you are talking about the whole grain components of a partial mash recipe. Strictly speaking specialty malts are any grains besides the base malt. To someone who uses extract for their base specialty is probably anything that isn't extract, but to a whole grain brewer specialty malts have a more specific meaning. True specialty malts are unnecessary in many styles, and you should have no concerns if you choose to omit them for a particular recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on your goals. If you use no whole grains and only rely on extracts you will have a seriously sub-par beer, but if you are really trying to explore the hops than this might be passable for your purpose. It will have very little malt character and lack depth of flavor, and that could be fine if you are trying to highlight different characteristics. I doubt it would be seriously bad. Consider making a small batch to see how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People make all extract beers all the time, they are still very popular first entries for people who don't have friends already in the hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could make a partial mash beer and only use one variety of hops with it. It's not properly SMaSH, but it is likely to give you better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastEditorUserId="12035" LastEditDate="2016-11-17T13:41:31.993" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T13:41:31.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18603" CreationDate="2016-11-16T23:08:28.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different specialty malts affect your beer differently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;color malts: color, body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;roasted malts: toasty, chocolate, roasted, or coffee flavor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cara-... malts: caramel flavor, mouthfeel, head retention&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;acid malt: ph level adjustment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(not a malt, but for completeness) flaked oaks: for head retention and creamy full body &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;smoke malt: special smoke flavor (only needed for a few styles, but those can't go without)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How necessary are they? Depends on what you want to brew. If you brew a SMaSH American Pale Ale or German Pilsner, you can do without specialty malts. If you want to brew an oatmeal stout, you'll need specialty malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an all-grain brewer, you can get the effects of certain specialty malts by process, i.e., the way you brew. For example, you can roast your own malt for coloring, or you can do a decoction mash to get caramel flavors and mouthfeel you would normally not get from the malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;old &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/bock/item/1395-specialty-grains-caramel-and-roasted-malts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BYO article on specialty malts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/learn/resources/grain-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Northern Brewer grain guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T23:08:28.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18605" CreationDate="2016-11-16T23:22:14.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is mostly with fruit wine, not so much with grape wines. When you make (fruit) wine, you can &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use syrup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;juice the fruit (e.g, blackberries)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;just mash the fruit (e.g., for strawberries, where you hardly can squeeze any juice out)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of these leaves with you with more solids in the fermenter. (For example, after fermentation strawberries are all pale and mushy.) After fermentation, you rack the wine to another fermenter (or bucket) to get rid of the sediment at the bottom of the first one; the wine can clear and clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're happy with the cloudiness / clearness of your wine, skip the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T23:22:14.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18612" CreationDate="2016-11-17T09:36:35.300" Score="1" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a Bochet style mead (burnt honey mead) and it's spent about a week bubbling away,  but there's some strange fibrous floaties that I've never seen before,  circulating around the must. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They even seem to form little dunes,  up to a few centimetres deep on the bottom of the 5 litre demi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this anything to worry about? My previous meads never had this,  but this is my first Bochet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hoGOx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hoGOx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a little hard to photograph,  note the dunes at the bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.8kg honey,  caramelised &#xA;~20 sultanas&#xA;Mangrove Jack M05 yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13818" LastEditorUserId="13818" LastEditDate="2016-11-17T10:28:18.317" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T18:05:52.223" Title="Floating fibres in Bochet mead" Tags="|mead|contamination|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-17T10:00:16.993" Score="3" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing some home made cider and decided last weekend to crack it open! (has been in bottles for about 6 months) when a friend opened the bottle it basically exploded and send the swing top flying covering the ceiling in cider and leaving about 100 ml of the 750 ml bottle remaining!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: is there anything i can do with the remaining bottles to stop them from doing the same thing? or am i doomed to opening them outside and having little cider left?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13621" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T14:25:56.823" Title="Home made Cider Over Carbonated what should i do with the other Bottles?" Tags="|cider|brewing|over-carbonation|help|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18610" CreationDate="2016-11-17T10:28:27.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cool them down to as close to freezing as you can to make sure as much as possible of the CO2 stays in solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then carefully vent the pressure from each one in a safe place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not done carbonating then I'd repeat the above every day until it is. (Edit: it's done after 6 months...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13548" LastEditorUserId="13548" LastEditDate="2016-11-17T14:25:56.823" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T14:25:56.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18609" CreationDate="2016-11-17T18:05:52.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Looks normal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some yeast will flocculate into snowflake clumps or even strands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jack M05 is rated as a high flocculation yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T18:05:52.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18605" CreationDate="2016-11-17T18:18:16.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally secondary has a couple benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Racking to a secondary removes the product from the loose fluffy trub that makes a clear product difficult if bottling right from primary. The secondary then gets a nice compact trub that doesn't disturb as easily.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If primary is over an extended time that results in yeast death (several weeks). A secondary will reduce bad esters that get released when the cell wall ruptures. Whether from autolysys or from age. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary has fallen out of favor with brewing since many styles can ferment out before #2 is an issue and we write off #1 as volume loss leaving behind enough beer not to disturb the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T18:18:16.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18064" CreationDate="2016-11-18T14:44:23.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;During secondary fermentation (bottling stage, aka 2F) of kombucha brewing, there is a correlation between sugar as an input and carbonation as an output. If you increase the sugar in the 2F ingredients, carbonation will increase. If you're getting too much carbonation during 2F, you can do one or both of the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Burp the bottles throughout the 2F process. If you suspect there's a lot of carbonation building up (because you've added fruit, or you have a test bottle set up to monitor carbonation levels) simply pick an interval (daily, etc) and open the bottle. Doing this will prevent over-carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And/or, vary the amount of sugar being added as an ingredient to 2F when bottling. Add less fruit. Or, if you like the amount of fruit your adding, then you need to decrease the amount of sugar in the kombucha fluid you're bottling. To get a less sugary kombucha fluid, allow your primary fermentation (1F) cycle to run longer. For example, if you bottle after day 7 in 1F, wait for day 8, 9, 10, etc to bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14350" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T14:44:23.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18616" CreationDate="2016-11-18T16:21:08.653" Score="1" ViewCount="700" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you drink a spirit and mixer with a straw sometimes you get a kick of alcohol at the end, so you keep stirring it with the straw while drinking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the different components of a brew (e.g. alcohol) be at different concentrations depending on the height inside the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so what methods are commonly used to get around this before siphoning into bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14343" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T16:53:37.467" Title="Gently stir fermenter before bottling?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|sediment|alcohol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18615" CreationDate="2016-11-18T16:53:37.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the alcohol is dispersed throughout the beer.  Indeed, the entire thing is homogenous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T16:53:37.467" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-19T09:36:48.557" Score="5" ViewCount="5889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am setting together fittings and ball valves for my homebrewing equipment and corrosion protection and food safety of material is a key decision point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet there is a noticable price difference between the inox 304 (cheaper) and inox 316 (more expensive) stainless steel. I seek in this question the information where the difference between the two is, in particular with wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key points are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will 304 suffer (i.e. corrode) from wort (assuming there is sort of &lt;s&gt;salts&lt;/s&gt; chloride existing in the wort) ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will the 304 type of stainless steel (in case of corrosion) release any toxic materials into the wort ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can the price difference (i.e. that 304 is 1/2 as expensive as 316) be confirmed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;304 stainless steel has a high resistance to rust. It withstands&#xA;  corrosion from most oxidizing acids and is often used for kitchen and&#xA;  food applications. However, it is susceptible to corrosion from&#xA;  chloride solutions (notably saline environments with high amounts of&#xA;  sodium chloride). Chloride ions can create localized areas of&#xA;  corrosion, called &quot;pitting,&quot; which can spread beneath protective&#xA;  chromium barriers to compromise internal structures. Solutions with as&#xA;  little as 25 ppm of sodium chloride can begin to have a corrosive&#xA;  effect.&#xA;  (source &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/304-vs-316-stainless-steel&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/304-vs-316-stainless-steel&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which tells that 304 is fine for non-chloride setups. In beer-brewing terms would that mean that I am fine with 304 if I brew (chloride-reduced, i.e. not a Gose). ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14242" LastEditorUserId="14139" LastEditDate="2016-11-24T16:25:03.603" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T15:49:22.427" Title="What stainless steel inox 304 vs inox 316 is acceptable for brewing equipment?" Tags="|equipment|stainless|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18621" CreationDate="2016-11-20T14:24:50.290" Score="1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a very lovely and quite potent American IPA that I've brewed several times now, from experience I know it'll get down to 1.006 in about 2 weeks if the temp is ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brew has been in for 2 weeks but as the ambient temperature has dropped so much it's only at 1.010 so not yet complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now my question! I either keg today or leave it for 2 weeks while I'm away, will it be ok on the yeast for another 2 weeks or should I just keg knowing that it's not yet complete? (my pressure keg should keep it at 15 psi)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further question, if I do keg should I add the priming sugar or trust that the pressure that's inevitably going to be there from continued fermentation will be enough to carbonate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm such a noob at this stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14238" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T13:42:56.347" Title="To Keg or not to Keg" Tags="|fermentation|kegging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18618" CreationDate="2016-11-20T16:22:14.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 weeks is no problem at all.  Leave it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T16:22:14.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18618" CreationDate="2016-11-20T16:37:46.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.010 is a good finishing gravity for most IPAs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no need to add priming sugar if you're kegging. Force carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T16:37:46.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18618" CreationDate="2016-11-21T13:42:56.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really doesn't matter which you choose. 2 weeks is not so long that there will be a problem with leaving it. At the same time the gravity is reasonably close, it will be fine if you keg it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that might help make the decision, did you dry-hop or use hops after the boil? If you did the flavors extracted there are more volatile. I would lean towards kegging if that's the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do keg it, you do not need to use priming sugar. Force carbonating is great, and so much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T13:42:56.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-21T19:49:32.200" Score="1" ViewCount="746" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't drink the water straight from my kitchen tap because it reeks of chlorine. Left standing it's palatable but, starting brewing again after 30 years or so, it's still not something I'd want to base a brew on, so I'm looking for a 'neutral' alternative. Highland Spring looks like a good candidate but it's only available in sizes up to two litres and is relatively expensive. Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative? Really cheap Burton water would be ideal. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14327" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T21:05:55.550" Title="Which reasonably priced UK bottled waters are lightly, or very lightly, mineralised?" Tags="|ingredients|water|brewing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-22T08:25:49.060" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;In wine production is maintaining a 20 degree C temperature a critical factor after first fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14361" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T20:49:18.367" Title="Maintaining Temperature in wine production" Tags="|fermentation|wine|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18622" CreationDate="2016-11-22T12:29:08.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheap alternative is to buy distilled water, or reverse osmosis water (or filter to produce it in your kitchen), and then manually ad salts to suit your style and needs. You can buy 1 lb. of ready to use mix for less than $10, and you only need a teaspoon or few to treat your water. Or you can buy pure salts and compose your own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If RO water is expensive in your area, you can simply buy any soft water and add salts as you need. Ready-made mix is probably out of the question, but with 4, 5 pure salts you should be able to achieve reasonable approximation of Burton water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-11-23T07:13:47.770" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T07:13:47.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12747" CreationDate="2016-11-22T12:58:25.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using an online room temperature check system with raspberry pi and highcharts which i programmed for myself. It can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://95.85.28.239:3001&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically raspberry pi sends temperature data to a db with a cronjob, and highcharts shows realtime data. But it is just for temperature not the gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed &lt;a href=&quot;http://xingwu.me/2014/10/19/Real-time-Web-Dashboard-Using-Socket-io-and-Highcharts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; tutorial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14310" LastEditorUserId="14310" LastEditDate="2017-01-03T06:47:18.547" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T06:47:18.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18622" CreationDate="2016-11-22T16:02:56.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another cheap alternative is to get your tapwater from somewhere else and transport it to your home. Of course its feasability depends on several factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a region with suitable tapwater nearby?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you know someone living in that region you can visit and get/buy some water from?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And very important:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the size of your installation? Up to 50L eg. I imagine it's not to complicated to transport the water in those 5L bottled water bottles you can buy at the supermarket. If you need more, transportation can become an issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2788" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T16:02:56.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18628" CreationDate="2016-11-22T16:07:42.673" Score="1" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still very new to all-grain, 7 batches in, so I am still a little shaky with procedure. The other day before my last batch I was re-reading &quot;how to brew and noticed that John Palmer recommends sparging until you have the target amount of liquid in your brew kettle &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; until you hit a gravity of 1.008-1.012.  I don't really understand this. Is this a lower limit?  I used 15.4 lbs of grain and at 8.5 gallons it was still 1.051. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12902" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T16:27:30.553" Title="Checking gravity at mash out." Tags="|specific-gravity|lauter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18627" CreationDate="2016-11-22T16:27:30.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, John's recommendation to stop sparging at 1.008-12 is based on fly sparging.  If you batch sparge it doesn't apply to you.  The reason he recommends that gravity to stop sparging is that it's an indicator of rising pH, which could pull tannins from the grain.  It sounds like maybe you were measuring your wort gravity, rather than the gravity of your last sparge runnings.  Is that the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T16:27:30.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2016-11-22T18:40:18.183" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The home brewer community I am with mostly uses beersmith.  I cannot edit the best answer, but beersmith now accomodates more than just windows and mac. &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/download-beersmith/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://beersmith.com/download-beersmith/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supported platforms:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - windows (english, french, portuguese)&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Mac&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - linux/ubuntu&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - android - &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/search?q=beersmith&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://play.google.com/store/search?q=beersmith&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14231" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T18:40:18.183" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-11-22T18:40:18.183" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18633" CreationDate="2016-11-23T06:12:30.907" Score="2" ViewCount="1804" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first fermentation bucket's volume is 19 litre and my bottling bucket's is 23 litre. Can I add 3-4 litre of sugar and water to it for secondary fermentation? Will it affect the taste in a bad way? It is wheat beer by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14310" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T11:14:25.153" Title="Adding water and sugar to secondary fermentation" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|secondary|sugar|mash-volume|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18630" CreationDate="2016-11-23T08:00:44.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can. Don't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transfer beer to bottling bucket just before bottling. Add priming sugar, let it dissolve. Bottle. Bucket will be partially empty most of the time anyway, because you are bottling. If you want to rack to secondary, just do it, but don't use bottling bucket, use regular one, and don't worry too much for head space. That's all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you will add water and sugar in amounts that will not change ABV, you will only have 19/24 ≈ 80% of taste, aroma, colour, head etc. Sometimes it's good - when your beer is too overwhelming. That's why some Belgians use sugar. But that's a rare situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T08:00:44.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18634" CreationDate="2016-11-23T08:59:42.530" Score="2" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making our seasonal beer we ended up getting a pre-boil gravity sample that was way higher than expected, so we added water to dilute the mash. A new sample was taken and the first one must have been polluted because now we ended up with a to low gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lead us to a three hour boil to get the sought after OG. What can we expect from the fermentation? Is there any risk that the sugars we got are un-fermentable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2320" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T13:20:29.863" Title="How is fermentation affected by a long boil?" Tags="|fermentation|boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18630" CreationDate="2016-11-23T09:17:38.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The generally approved advice is don't dilute beer post fermentation - and that advice is &quot;not wrong&quot;. However it depends on the type and gravity of the beer. I have regularly dissolved the priming sugar in (say) 1 Litre of water and added it to the brew before bottling. I totally recommend dissolving the priming sugar in a minimal amount of boiled water (pasteurises the sugar ) - so some dilution is certainly not fatal. How much dilution can be sensibly done is another question. 5% (ie. adding 1 litre water to 20 litres of beer)is not beyond reason but above that the effects will be noticed if compared to the original beer. If the original beer was brewed with a high F.G. and with much flavouring (hops/roast grains) then it will stand more dilution before it becomes noticeable. Diluting lagers just makes the beer watery and is not an improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I have seen many 24 litre beer kits made up to a lesser volume (eg 18 litres) and then diluted to 23 litres post ferment. This was done for similar reasons - the FV was rather small and filling it with 23 litres was too much. So it was made up to a lesser volume and diluted to taste afterwards. So one can ferment in a more concentrated mix than specified and adjust FG afterwards. Why they couldn't just get a bigger bucket was open to question.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2016-11-24T11:14:25.153" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T11:14:25.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18632" CreationDate="2016-11-23T09:25:38.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling would caramelise the sugars to some degree and darken the solution. So for a Christmas beer the taste might even improve. Caramel does not necessarily count as fermentable sugar and so the useful sugar content of the wort may be lower than desired and thus the final ABV may be lower without some adjustment of the wort. I presume the boiling for some hours did not include boiling with the hops....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if the wort has a suitable OG then I would ferment it anyway and see what happens. At worst it will be a caramel flavoured weaker festive beer - which may be not a bad thing! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="2788" LastEditDate="2016-11-23T13:20:29.863" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T13:20:29.863" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18636" CreationDate="2016-11-23T10:03:19.443" Score="4" ViewCount="812" Body="&lt;p&gt;In August I brewed my very first batch ever, an Amber Ale from Brewer's Best (kit). Six weeks later, I opened up the first bottle and was astonished - it tasted pretty darned good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the course of September and October I drank almost all the bottles, and had about 6 left coming into November.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This past weekend, I hadn't drank one in about 2 or 3 weeks, and so I cracked one open. I poured it into a glass, and it looked totally normal. Good head on it, no visible particles/&quot;floaters&quot;, etc. But when I went to taste it, it was &lt;em&gt;super&lt;/em&gt; strong (alcohol), and after a few sips I tossed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opened a second one - same thing. A third one, same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &lt;em&gt;theory&lt;/em&gt; is that the yeast have been fermenting inside my bottles this entire time, and that the brew's &quot;sweet spot&quot; (that is, where taste and alcohol content were perfectly balanced) or Golden Age was back in September and October. And that now we've past that Golden Age and there is simply too much alcohol in the bottles now to be enjoyable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I ask: &lt;strong&gt;Is my theory correct? If not, what the heck is going on? And if so, is there anything a homebrewer can do to correct it or prolong a bottled beer's &quot;Golden Age&quot;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13954" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T11:18:37.493" Title="Does homebrewed beer have a &quot;Golden Age&quot;?" Tags="|fermentation|bottle-conditioning|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18635" CreationDate="2016-11-23T11:18:37.493" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beers do tend to age and have a sweet spot, per se, of when their flavor peaks. Every beer and beer style is different without a doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what you are describing is more related to your experience level.  When beers starts to &quot;decline&quot; they don't normally start to pick up strength.  In fact, when the beer went into the bottle it should have been done fermenting altogether and aside from your priming sugar addition there really isn't much more activity from your primary yeast strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing how you identified this as your first brew, I suspect you were experiencing some form of mild contamination by a non intended microbe that continued to work on what little fermentables were left including some of the non-fermentables in the beer that gave it its great flavor and body to begin with.  A beer doesn't have to present as a gusher or sour or strange flavored to be contaminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is something many new brewers go through, just stay vigilant about sanitation and be wary of the conditions around you when your beer is exposed during transfers (i.e. breezes and or excessively dusty/moldy environments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, many beers age, get better, then decline and change.  Your &quot;Golden Age&quot; was just good beer going bad before you could finish drinking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Not meant to be harsh, just honest.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T11:18:37.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18593" CreationDate="2016-11-23T15:09:02.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of using a hydrometer you could use a refractometer. It only requires a few drops. Then with software like Beer Smith you can do the conversion for fermented wort. You look through a prism and a blue line appears on some numbers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I did after I broke my third hydrometer. :-) Refractometers are 50ish dollar's versus 5 or 10 for a hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13111" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T15:09:02.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10709" CreationDate="2016-11-23T15:41:35.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Electrical Tape worked for me. No activity for 32 hours. Sealed with tape, and BOOM! Airlock magic!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14370" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T15:41:35.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2016-11-23T18:58:48.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might be quite alone having this opinion, but I generally dislike depending too much on brewing software. To me, having some sort of &lt;em&gt;&quot;magical box&quot;&lt;/em&gt; that is supposed to make the decisions, distracts you from the actual brewing process. This might perhaps be a somewhat romantic sentiment, but brewing is something that is best enjoyed when done by heart, rather than when being a result of some other guy's (or gal's) clever computer algorithms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried software like Beersmith and similar, and they are often overly complicated (which brewing most definitely should not be). Many programs are also proprietary and lacks transparency, which puts you the brewer in a vulnerable position. There are essentially only a few calculations that you actually need to do when brewing, and none are so complicated that an average idiot like myself can not do them by hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, to the software:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For convenience I have used the free software &lt;a href=&quot;https://cran.r-project.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;R&lt;/a&gt; to create a few of my own brewing calculators. It is perhaps not for everyone, but making your own stuff makes brewing more transparent, and gives you a lot more control over the process. I dream of someday turning my scripts into a &lt;a href=&quot;http://shiny.rstudio.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shiny app&lt;/a&gt; so I can use it on my phone or online, but that's far ahead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I occasionally use spreadsheets to work out recipes, but this opens up for a myriad of formula errors if you are not careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tl;dr: brewing software is something extra, and not something essential. Do it yourself for best control and satisfaction. Free software &lt;a href=&quot;https://cran.r-project.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;R&lt;/a&gt; is my weapon of choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13277" LastEditorUserId="13277" LastEditDate="2016-11-23T19:09:17.707" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T19:09:17.707" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-11-23T18:58:48.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18622" CreationDate="2016-11-24T10:25:42.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a quote that should point you in the right direction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campden_tablet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campden_tablet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Campden tablets (potassium or sodium metabisulfite) are a sulfur-based product that is used primarily to sterilize wine, cider and in beer making to kill bacteria and to inhibit the growth of most wild yeast: &lt;strong&gt;this product is also used to eliminate both free chlorine and the more stable form, chloramine, from water ...&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used this method for 10 or more years as my tap water is heavily chlorinated/chloraminated. Works every time, with the tablets costing only a few cents each, and dosage rate is 1/4 tablet per 10 gallons of water. Add the tablet, or portion thereof, to your water before heating it and adding grain or extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T10:25:42.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18642" CreationDate="2016-11-24T18:16:19.233" Score="1" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a fermentation fridge so I have to put my fermenter in the best spot to get the correct temperature; and keep an eye on it and move it or heat/cool it if necessary. My last brew I used Safale US-05 and I was aiming for a starting temperature of 16°C letting it rise to around 22°C after 3 days and holding it around 20/22 °C to the end, which I understand is a good profile for the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However to cut a long story short and my &quot;cold&quot; room was too cold and my &quot;warm&quot; room was too warm and the beer ended up sort of swinging from 12°C to 22°C a number of times, but this is still within the Fermentis recommendations, in fact it was mostly between 15 and 22 which is what they say it should be &lt;strong&gt;ideally&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;FERMENTATION TEMPERATURE: 12-25°C (53.6-77°F) ideally 15-22°C (59-71.6°F)&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is &lt;strong&gt;does it have to be a consistent temperature&lt;/strong&gt; as well as being between 12°C and 22°C ... and if it does &lt;strong&gt;what negative effects would a fluctuation in temperature cause&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there were probably 3-5 signifignant cyles of 12/15 °C to 20/22 °C and back again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;US05 PDF&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Safale-US-05-en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Safale-US-05-en.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; it just occurred to mention my gravity readings, which surprised me a bit but not sure. The fermentation went from 1058 to 1012 in 5 days&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastEditorUserId="3977" LastEditDate="2016-11-24T18:54:04.150" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T18:54:04.150" Title="Does fermentation temperature have to be consistent as well as within the high and low markers?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18641" CreationDate="2016-11-24T18:48:14.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;does it have to be a consistent temperature&lt;/em&gt;&quot; - IMHO, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;what negative effects would a fluctuation in temperature cause&lt;/em&gt;&quot; - very few unless the temperature was mainly tending to the high end of the range. Then it might give a more fruity flavour to the brew - which is not a bad thing but may not be what one wants. If the temperature dips too low for a longer time then the beer may cool and will only warm slowly. The lower temperature may produce a &quot;cleaner/crisper&quot; beer but will usually inhibit the yeast and so will require longer to ferment. Its a case of &quot;swings and roundabouts&quot;. While the mentioned 3 thermal cycles between 12 and 22 may have some effect I doubt it would seriously detract from an otherwise fine brew. And I also doubt it will it turn an otherwise bad brew into a good one! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T18:48:14.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18644" CreationDate="2016-11-24T23:16:19.347" Score="1" ViewCount="943" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking to upgrade from my 15L Aluminium Pot I use on the stove to a Stainless Steel kettle I can do full boils in (for 20-25 Litre batches). &#xA;I'm trying to be reasonably thrifty with this and have found some 38L Stainless Steel stock pots on eBay going for a good price. However I noticed these are only 1mm thick. Will that be thick enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to install an element into the kettle itself (with weldless fittings) rather than heat it directly on the stovetop (I'm currently in an apartment with no outdoor space for a gas burner). I'll also most likely fit a ball-valve. Will the thickness matter when drilling holes and adding weldless fittings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14379" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T09:13:43.827" Title="Is 1mm thick enough for a Stainless Steel kettle?" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18643" CreationDate="2016-11-25T09:13:43.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO 1mm Stainless is a bit thin for drilling and retaining things like a heating element and a ball valve. It is not impossible but the potential to bend or dent the steel when in use is quite high. It does of course depend on the steel - there are different grades and some are &quot;stiffer/harder&quot; than others. I recently drilled a &quot;economy&quot; stainless sink that was quoted as 1mm thick. It was easy to drill but somewhat &quot;bendy&quot; and I would not be happy to cut a larger hole and mount a electric element in a similarly constructed pot. The leverage on the element might well cause the pot wall to bend. With careful handling it may all be OK and if economy is the driving force then it is possible to do. But personally I would like to use something a bit more substantial. Brewing is always a bit &quot;rough and ready&quot; the equipment should be able to stand a few knocks and drops - so it may be a false economy to use the cheapest materials. As a guide I would prefer a stainless thickness of at least 1.5mm and preferably 2.5mm or more. The curve of the pot wall may need to be adjusted/flattened to fit the flange of the heating element. That will be easier with thinner steel but it may not hold the flange so securely/steadily. Ultimately you can only judge when you have the steel vessel in front of you and by then this question would be academic! Good luck either way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T09:13:43.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-27T21:52:19.087" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not been able to find a website that lists percent of each malt and/or adjunct for a given style of beer.  Is there such a site?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14385" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-11-30T16:03:53.013" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T16:03:53.013" Title="Website for grain bill determination by style" Tags="|ingredients|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18648" CreationDate="2016-11-27T23:54:33.103" Score="0" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may sound like a stupid question, but I am curious can you ferment Lucozade would work in theory if yes I will test it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who don't know Lucozade is a very sugary energy drink (124 grams of sugar per litter). The reason why I don't think that Lucozade is fermentable is because it has got a high caffeine content as well as using glucose instead of sucrose will this effect the fermentation if not make it impossible to ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14387" LastEditorUserId="14387" LastEditDate="2016-11-28T09:50:09.973" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T10:18:20.093" Title="Can you ferment lucozade?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18647" CreationDate="2016-11-28T10:18:20.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast can act on glucose in solution perhaps even more easily than it can use sucrose. Glucose is the archetypal &quot;brewer's sugar&quot; that is directly available for fermentation, so there would be no inhibition of fermentation on that point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caffeine does not inhibit yeast fermentation to any degree in reasonable concentrations (eg like a cup of coffee) as, for example, strong coffee infusion is often added to speciality brews as a flavouring agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will affect fermentation of Lucozade the presence of &quot;preservatives&quot; like potassium sorbate (or any other &quot;preservative&quot; present). Sorbates inhibit the growth and action of saccharomyces so fermenting Lucozade would be rendered more difficult if not impossible by the presence of that preservative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A high concentration of sugar in solution can also inhibit yeast - eg syrups, treacle and molasses resist fermentation. I am not sure if Lucozade is a sufficiently concentrated glucose solution to do that on its own or whether it is still sufficiently dilute to ferment and thus sorbate is added to prevent that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But one might well ask - why ferment Lucozade? If one was particularity driven to do so, then it would be cheaper and more efficient to make up a flavoured glucose solution, add some caffeine and proceed from there. Although one might still ask, &quot;why?&quot;... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T10:18:20.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18646" CreationDate="2016-11-28T13:36:31.120" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure you're going to find anything besides recipes that are especially prescriptive about what goes in to the beer. Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmithrecipes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BeerSmith&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewtoad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BrewToad&lt;/a&gt;, and other sites to find some recipes. They will give you some concrete examples of grain bills for a style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for something more broad, check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/stylecenter.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BJCP style guidelines&lt;/a&gt;, especially the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2015_Guidelines_Consolidated.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;style guide with ingrediant comments&lt;/a&gt;. These are much more general and illustrate that most styles have a wide range of acceptable ingrediants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T13:36:31.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7265" CreationDate="2016-11-29T07:51:11.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;#2 from CHI are not an exact fit and they don't work as good as the original ones. Anyone know where we can find the original ones with the black rubber top vs the yellow? The yellow ones work, but not nearly as well as the originals. I find they stick and leak unless poked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6M7cC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6M7cC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of yellow and black poppets, side-by-side.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-11-30T16:04:17.530" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T16:04:17.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-29T11:54:00.770" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;My system can comfortably mash up to 10kg of malt. But it can easily fly sparge only 5kg. 8kg is doable, but stretching it. In my recipe I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5kg Pale Ale &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1kg Munich I&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1kg Munich II&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1kg Melanoiden &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2kg DME &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;candi sugar, caramel etc added later&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belgian yeast &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previous incarnation of this ale was using no DME and 8kg Pale Ale (rest unchanged) and it was delicious. I decided to substitute 3kg of malt with 2kg of DME to only sparge once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is, it turns out that I only have 3.5kg of Pale Ale. I'm 1.5kg short. Possible solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy more. More authentic taste, but sparge will be long. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy DME or LME. Easy sparge, bad for pocket. Taste impact? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use more Munich I and II. Cheapest, I already have it. But would alter the flavor. On the other hand, it's supposed to be malty. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How bad would be using extract or Munich? I'd prefer it to be either cheap or easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T13:42:32.610" Title="Big beer extract impact?" Tags="|recipe-formulation|sparge|partial-mash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18651" CreationDate="2016-11-29T13:42:32.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would avoid option 3. You've already got plenty of Munich in the recipe, and it would likely alter the flavor too much. If you do go this way be sure to use your lightest Munich as the higher roasted Munich will lose its enzymes and no longer be suitable as a base malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My choice would be to use more extract, preferably LME. It's easy and effective. You will not have an excessive amount of your recipe coming from extracts and I expect you will still get a good depth of flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1 will also work out well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T13:42:32.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5642" CreationDate="2016-11-29T16:39:15.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My banana wine smells and tastes of bananas. Use the fruit from 12anda couple of skins. Clear as a bell, and can light the bbq with it. Blinding hangover per bottle too! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14398" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T16:39:15.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18657" CreationDate="2016-11-29T17:35:23.573" Score="4" ViewCount="753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read numerous posts and articles on dry hopping in primary, secondary, and kegs.  My current brew calls (AIPA) calls for dry hopping.  I've think, after reading these articles, that I'd like to dry hop in my secondary which is a glass carboy.  I've also think that I'm just going to pour the pellets in without any type of hop bag, mainly for ease.  I don't have a problem wrestling with getting the hops out after kegging:  I'll just blast 'em.  But does any hop residue (note not oils or resin, but actual chunks) end up in my beer if I don't use a bag?  My main concern is that dry hopping without a bag may give me some &quot;hop floaties&quot; in my glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T14:32:28.357" Title="Will dry hopping without a hop bag give me &quot;hop floaties&quot;?" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|carboy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5964" CreationDate="2016-11-29T18:25:41.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran into a similar issue the first brew I made.  I have a 60L keg converted into boil kettle with a 1/2&quot; spigot.  The hops bunged up the spigot very quickly while transferring to carboy.  This method worked, but I would avoid it because the strainer got bunged up very quickly and this process was tedious.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I removed the spigot and drained wort through the hole into a large water pitcher  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then put a large mouth funnel into carboy and a strainer sitting on top of the funnel  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I slowly poured the wort from the pitcher through the strainer and funnel.  It took a long time because the strainer also got bunged up from the hops silt and wouldn't allow wort to flow through the strainer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After talking to some local home brewers I decided to go with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/Gooday-Stainless-Spider-Filter-Micron/dp/B01M9FBFS5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hops Spider&lt;/a&gt;.  If I didn't have the money to buy one, my other option was to use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2012/03/hoppy-beers-and-whirlpool-hops.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;whirlpool method&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For brewers that have a pump, whirlpooling post boil is a handy technique. You simply recirculate your wort through a pump, which creates a gentle whirlpool in the kettle. The hop material and trub will all collect in a nice cone in the center of the kettle, and you can draw clear wort into your fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14231" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-11-30T16:04:09.640" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T16:04:09.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18654" CreationDate="2016-11-29T22:15:20.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, it may.  If you can chill the before racking to a keg it should drop the hops.  If you can' do that, you can just wait til they drop on their own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T22:15:20.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18654" CreationDate="2016-11-29T23:04:01.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'm not a fan of using bags in fermentation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bags usually float giving a perfect media for bacteria on the exposed area to grow on. Expecially in secondary when c02 levels are the lowest. Also in a carboy it's very difficult to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As far as floating particles&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't have any issues by adding loose pellets, if you could crash the secondary and swirl occasionally just to break surface tension. It will all drop to the bottom. Just be careful to siphon well above the hop/trub bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I should add that there are ways to make sure your bag doesn't float. By adding sanitized stainless steel washers or glass marbles to the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-12-02T14:32:28.357" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T14:32:28.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-30T11:56:34.127" Score="3" ViewCount="656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did my first brew from a 5 litres blonde beer kit. I wanted to bottle it after 2 weeks (according to the recipe ) but I got scared about over carbonation so I decided to leave it another week in the carboy. Now, 5 days later, after I moved the carboy when I wanted to bottle my beer, I see a lot of fizzing going arround. Before it was dormant and now it seem active again with a tiny amount of foam on top. Does it mean it got in another stage of fermentation? Now I am even more scared about over carbonation. And by the way, I didn't get a hydrometer nor a refractometer in the kit so I am in the unknown here. I would appreciate any thoughts, Adrian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14400" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T12:37:39.127" Title="My carboy is fizzing after 2 weeks" Tags="|fermentation|brewing|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18659" CreationDate="2016-11-30T12:06:36.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The release of gas when you moved it is not uncommon.  There is usually residual CO2 from the fermentation dissolved in the liquid and by agitating the liquid when you moved it, some of that gas is escaping.  Much like swirling a glass of beer to get more foam or aroma out of it. (For the record, up swings in temperature can also generate the appearance of bubbles too.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say go to bottle as normal if you think you are ready.  Three weeks is probably more than enough if fermentation went well.  When you rack the brew over to bottle taste a sample.  If it tastes fine then I wouldn't be too concerned that the activity your seeing is something else like a microbial contaminant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly... get a hydrometer for the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T12:06:36.350" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18659" CreationDate="2016-11-30T12:37:39.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measure gravity. That's the only way to be sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can have little to no bubbles and fermentation going on if the lid didn't seal completely. Or you can have bubbles and no fermentation if you release residual CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. Or you can have stuck fermentation you will unstuck by agitating and adding priming sugar. So don't guess it. Measure it. Three days without gravity change should be perfect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T12:37:39.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18663" CreationDate="2016-11-30T13:41:56.810" Score="4" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I naively thought that mash-in was only producting sugars via the alpha and beta amylase, but it seems (from Briggs) that total nitrogen (TN; protein), soluble nitrogen (orprotein) and free amino nitrogen (FAN) are also produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are they important in beer? Is it correlated to the amount of fermentable sugar or is it something completely different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14401" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T14:39:21.370" Title="Why nitrogen is produced during mash-in?" Tags="|mashing|science|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18662" CreationDate="2016-11-30T23:06:30.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its completely different than the sugar part of the equation.&#xA;Its not something to worry about as the mash provides all the necessary nitrogen under normal conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nitrogen levels are purely a concern for yeast performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T22:53:15.057" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T22:53:15.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18662" CreationDate="2016-12-01T18:30:32.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grain contains protein.  Protein contains nitrogen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T18:30:32.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18666" CreationDate="2016-12-01T18:57:47.050" Score="2" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some brewers mash-in for two hours, whereas it seems that most of the sugar is extracted during the first 30mn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the difference between 30 and 60mn mash duration &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2014/09/01/does-mash-length-matter-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;have been explored&lt;/a&gt;, I still don't understand what mashing for two hours would be useful for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems from &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yToh3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yToh3.png&quot; alt=&quot;this table took from Briggs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; that the difference between 60 and 120mn of brewing is of 2% of non-fermentable extract and 0.8% of fermentable extract, at 65°C, which seems very low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if this was in order to extract more fermentable sugars, why not continuing the mash-in for an extra hour ? Is there something else hapenning when you mash-in for two hours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14401" LastEditorUserId="14401" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T09:05:07.020" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T11:23:44.090" Title="Why some brewers mash-in for two hours?" Tags="|mash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18665" CreationDate="2016-12-02T06:42:39.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most mash schedules can be completed in about an hour. Basically yes, there's other stuff going on in longer mashs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A step mash to hit a protein rest, beta-amylase, alpha-amylase, mash out can easily take a couple hours depending on how quickly your system can heat the mash. Also, if your water grist ratio is too thin, it could take a long time for conversion. A coarse grind will also benefit from a longer mash time to extract starches from the larger endosperm chunks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately your mash is done when all starches are converted, unless you want to manipulate proteins or produce other flavor profiles like clove by producing precursor compounds that can benefit the yeast for those esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want a basic mash with a split of simple and complex sugars  152°F is good. I've done these mashs in as little as 20-30 minutes, confirming conversion is simple with an iodine test. So no time is wasted. Also it works very quickly because both  enzymes beta and alpha are active even though beta amylase is being denatured at this temp it hangs on for about 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T11:23:44.090" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T11:23:44.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18668" CreationDate="2016-12-02T06:48:14.360" Score="1" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading John Palmer's &lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt; and I'm getting ready for my first brew day in a few days. I'm aiming to follow the basic 'Cincinnati Pale Ale' recipe that he provides but I'm going to have to substitute some ingredients and I'm just wondering if it will be OK to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;His recipe:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG = 1.045, 30 IBUs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5kg pale malt extract syrup, unhopped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.1kg amber dry malt extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 AAUs bittering hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 AAUs finishing hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;packet dry yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My proposed changes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Malt: 1.8kg amber liquid + 1kg pale dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hops: Just one variety of the local 'Cascade'-style hop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will I have to compensate in any way for the malt changes? I understand people target different OGs/IBUs for the style they want, but will this be OK to produce a first brew?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Regarding hops, mine are 7.3% AA so I'm thinking I'll use 6AAUs of them for bittering and probably none for finishing in order to keep it simple. Does that sound like a reasonable plan, or should I use some for finishing in order to get more AAUs? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In terms of boiling the wort, I have a 50L aluminium pot - should I boil the whole amount of water (~20L) with the malt and hops in it, or should I do what Palmer does in his recipe and only boil part of the final volume, adding the rest into the fermenter? I'm a bit confused about why he wouldn't boil all the water and ingredients together as I thought that produced a better wort, but I've also read that some people only boil small amounts of water and then add it to the rest in the fermenter...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is probably a bit weird but I'm not experienced enough to know what will just 'work'. I'm not that worried about what will be 'best' - just trying to get a first brew out that tastes like a decent beer and doesn't fail. Thanks in advance for reading and responding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14230" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T22:46:04.623" Title="First brew - OK to substitute malt/hops, and how much water should I be boiling?" Tags="|fermentation|hops|boil|malt|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18667" CreationDate="2016-12-02T07:59:07.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your recipe look completely fine to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your malt bill looks OK. Your OG will be ever so slightly higher, and color may turn out very slightly darker but not enough to care about.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Finishing hops&quot; are not added for bitterness, they're there for flavour and aroma and don't actually add significant bittering, since it's the extended boiling of hops that creates bitterness. A pale ale should have notable hop character, and it will probably turn out pretty bland and boring without any late additions. I would follow his recipe and add hops at the amount and time prescribed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amounts and times for hop additions have a huge impact on the final product and is something homebrewers like to experiment with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bigger boil is better, but boiling the full volume requires that you have the means to cool it to pitching temperature as well. With a partial boil you can get away with cooling it in a water bath in your kitchen sink. For a 50 liter kettle you will absolutely need a purpose made cooling device (immersion chiller, plate chiller, no-chill cube etc...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The malt bill is fine, and your hops are typical Cascade range for alpha acids. I'll be fine if you follow the recipe for the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13548" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T07:59:07.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18667" CreationDate="2016-12-02T14:11:14.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Single hop brews can be quite awesome, but maybe read around to see if people have tried single hop beers with that particular hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No worries about doing a partial boil in a larger pot, from what I know. I've had better luck doing full boils than partial, but cooling it down can be a pain. Remember to be careful no matter what, since you've got a whole bunch of volume of boiling liquid. An ice bath in the sink is generally the easiest thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun with your first brew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T14:11:14.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18667" CreationDate="2016-12-02T14:24:57.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically you just have a 5.73% change. The difference in these malt types and weights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To scale your batch up so you use the 2.8kg of extract. &lt;strong&gt;Simply increase water and hop additions up 5.73%&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First we establish both recipes to a baseline using that 1kg dry= 1.25kg liquid. Original recipe has a value of 2.875 and the second 3.05 giving a percent difference of 5.73% to increase all other ingredients by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only trade off by using your malts in this case is a slightly lighter final SRM color of the beer, and a slight difference in malt flavor. Both will probably be unnoticeable to most in side by side comparisons. If you don't have the extra hops just increase the water. The IBU difference would only be about -1 IBU, but may be exaggerated to -2 to -3 IBUs without water from residual sweetness. Yeast amount isn't a concern at all in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is all just academic for your situation. So minor it doesn't really matter.&lt;/strong&gt; RDWHAHB and brew your batch! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-12-02T15:55:52.310" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T15:55:52.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18674" CreationDate="2016-12-02T20:02:44.283" Score="2" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've added frozen strawberries to the primary fermenter for a Cider I'm making. I plan to ferment 30 days in primary, then transfer to a secondary for another 30 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 1: Is 30 days to long for strawberries to be left in the fermenter? I don't want them to go bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 2: Will the strawberries help continue to flavor the cider if I move the strawberries to the secondary fermenter? Will the strawberries last another 30 days in the secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in Advance, Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14413" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T02:08:49.050" Title="Is it safe to allow strawberries to ferment for 60 days" Tags="|fermentation|cider|fruit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18671" CreationDate="2016-12-02T21:53:20.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are couple of questions you need to answer for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is fermentation that long really needed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In your secondary &quot;fermentation&quot;, will anything ferment? Will you have viable yeast? Fermentable sugar?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you move strawberries to secondary, you will move a lot of yeast cake and leftovers, too. Is it worth it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's typical gravity for cider, and vigorous yeast, your fermentation may end in about 7 days. Or even earlier. keeping it ten times longer will only contribute to loss of flavor and aroma, increased oxidation, increased risk of infection, et cetera. Strawberries or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Primary without strawberries. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When gravity stops decreasing, transfer to secondary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;True secondary, with fermentables from crushed strawberries&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I would expect it all to finish in 3, maybe 4 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T21:53:20.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18667" CreationDate="2016-12-02T22:46:04.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't boil the malt extract. Just boil the hops. After the required hop boiling time, strain the &quot;hop tea&quot; into a fermentation vessel. Add the malt extract to the mix and add some more boiling water to help dissolve to extract. The boiling water will also pasteurise the resulting wort. Stir as needed. Add cold water directly from a potable water source (eg a mains supply tap) and dilute to the volume needed. adjust temp with some boiling water as required. When all is at the correct temperature and volume, pitch the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple and efficient. Works for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T22:46:04.623" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18671" CreationDate="2016-12-03T02:08:49.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming here he berries are covered with cider. If your berries are exposed to air, they'll probably grow mold quickly, and the question becomes moot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's fine to leave the strawberries fermenting. Store bought frozen strawberries have been washed / cleaned, and bring little danger to your cider. Your yeast as the strongest culture will overpower any wild yeasts in the air or on fruit. So, relax, don't worry, have a homebrew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'll get much from the strawberries after 2 or 3 weeks. When you rack to secondary, take a look at them and/or taste one. They'll have lost most of their color and flavor. Hence I don't think you'll get much more out of them and hence it's probably not worth transferring them. They'll probably last, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T02:08:49.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18682" CreationDate="2016-12-03T02:46:54.877" Score="2" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying out my first batch of home brew... it's a central smash IPA one gallon recipe boiled over on me, so this is a very small 3/4 gallon batch ha. I see a lot of floating green. Nothing's moving anymore it's been about two weeks in the glass carboy. Does this look normal?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R1Qgg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ziREz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T15:06:59.417" Title="Does this look infected?" Tags="|fermentation|wort|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18675" CreationDate="2016-12-03T03:31:32.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife saw this picture and immediately said,  &quot;Looks aren't everything&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look bad,  I would probably judge it by smell. If it stinks you might have a problem. If it smells like beer,  get it into secondary and see what happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14417" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T03:31:32.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-03T03:44:47.770" Score="0" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to home brewing and I believe I messed first batch up.It was a american amber kit and I did well on instructions until I pitched the yeast.It was supposed to be at 65 to 72 when I pitched yeast but I realized it was 86 instead. I put all in primary fermenter that night,and in morning it had blown airlock out.I then put it back in,and it blew it off again.It was really vigirous and foaming good.This was at about 12 hours. I  then transferred it to my pla&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14415" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T07:54:36.673" Title="pitched yeast at too high of temp,is all lost?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18677" CreationDate="2016-12-03T07:54:36.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have vigorous fermentation. That's the surest sign your yeast are feeling just fine! If it was too vigorous, it might mean you fermented too warm and it will probably affect taste, but that's OK for now, you will know when you taste it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do nothing. Let it ferment. Try to make sure you are at the middle, or lower half, of the yeast temperatures. And wait. It is still quite possible you will have a very drinkable brew. And if it is ruined, you can't know it now anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T07:54:36.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1446" CreationDate="2016-12-03T12:38:17.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to start making mustang (wild) grape wine in the cellar of the old house I owned during the 1980s-90s. I went to a liquor store that also sold winemaking equipment and looked at a couple of airlocks that would fit the 5-gallon water bottles I was going to use to make the wine. I took the locks to the counter and asked the owner, who was in his 60s at the time, if one was better than the other (they were a bit different but about the same price). Instead of trying to profit by selling me the locks, he was thoughtful and gave me some excellent advice. He said that he could sell me the locks for about 60 bucks apiece, but I'd be as well off for a LOT less money if I used condoms in lieu of the locks. He said he'd done it for many years (decades) and his wine always turned out great. He said that I needed to use condoms WITHOUT spermicide because that would kill the yeast. I thanked him heartily and went on my way. I couldn't find condoms without the spermicide ANYWHERE, so I bought some with and washed them thoroughly with soap and warm water. Starting with my first batch, my wine came out GREAT - and from that point on, I told folks that I do &quot;safe winemaking.&quot;  ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14418" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T12:38:17.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18675" CreationDate="2016-12-03T14:07:39.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging fermentation by how long you see activity in the airlock is unpredictable. You saw some activity, which is a good sign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you happen to get any hydrometer readings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That green stuff floating around are hops that are still suspended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I would give it a taste. If it tastes like flat, almost-beer, you're in good shape. Make sure you sanitize the siphon before doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T14:07:39.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18675" CreationDate="2016-12-03T15:06:59.417" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything I see there looks normal.  Green floaties, just hops. Clean surface, no pellicile starting. Some bubbles, c02 still being produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T15:06:59.417" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-03T17:58:55.383" Score="1" ViewCount="2644" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to add bananas to a beer some time soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of good info in &quot;Homebrew All-Stars&quot; (Drew Beechum and Denny Conn) from Joe Formanek about how he uses bananas in the mash.  One thing that surprised me was the large quantity required.  He says that you need about 10 pounds (weight with skin on) of fruit to get a noticeable banana character in the finished beer.  By my rough calculation, that seems to be about 30 bananas!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm also wondering about putting bananas right into the primary fermenter (post boil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone comment on the relative merits of bananas in the &lt;strong&gt;mash vs. post-boil&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to answer Denny's question (in a comment below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting the bananas in the mash sort of seems like a good idea, especially if they are less ripe and more starchy.  But I guess my general inclination when adding fruit would be to do so after the boil to prevent losing aromatics to the boil.  Also, 10 pounds for a 5 gallon batch seems like a whole lot, and so I wondered if one could get more &quot;banana bang for the buck&quot; if the bananas went in post boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T01:36:33.320" LastActivityDate="2019-06-20T12:35:47.093" Title="Brewing with Bananas" Tags="|beer|ingredients|banana|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18688" CreationDate="2016-12-03T18:47:49.653" Score="1" ViewCount="2180" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's start by saying that I've done a bit of research about this already, so please understand that I am struggling to find a specific answer to my question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Mixed Berry Cider kit from &quot;Makeyourowndrinks&quot;, details can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://makeyourowndrinks.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;makeyourowndrinks.co.uk&lt;/a&gt; and this is the first kit I've attempted so I'm learning a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sterilized as instructed and measured as instructed and have attempted to keep the batch around 20c (fluctuates between 18c-22c at most). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Around the 4th day, I started to notice a strong rotten eggy smell (As I beleive to be sulfur) and the colour faded from dark purple to a dark browny/orange. The batch is still bubbling away nicely so I'm curious as to if I need to intervene here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people online mention the sulfer smell is normal in Cider making and will slowly fade although some also say it's something to be worried about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please provide me with a bit of advice about the correct colours and smells for these types of kit and put my mind at ease? Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14419" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T22:07:14.977" Title="&quot;Makeyourowndrinks&quot; Cider smells like sulfur and turned a brownish colour, is this normal?" Tags="|cider|aroma|brown|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18684" CreationDate="2016-12-03T21:12:24.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't have experience with this specific set, but I made cider few times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sulfur smell is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; normal. OK, there are specific ale strains that give it no matter what, but most of the times it means you have wild microorganisms fermenting, or your yeast have problem with lack of nutrient. In ciders, lack of nutrient is a mistake easy to make. At this point, I doubt this can be corrected. Some batches would taste OK in the end, some would not. If it will, it will probably be safe, too. This time just wait and see. Next time add yeast nutrient.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some fading of color is normal. Most beverages are bit paler after fermentation, and loss of &quot;color saturation&quot; happens. I don't know where orange came from. I strongly suggest asking manufacturer about that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T21:12:24.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18683" CreationDate="2016-12-04T09:32:55.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO the bananas are best added (mashed up) to the hot wort post boil. Boiling for any significant time can drive off esters that add to the flavour and aroma. Adding to the mash can also increase the bulk volume to crazy proportions, making handling more difficult. A friend has brewed banana beer by vigorously mashing/blending the soft bananas separately in hot (boiled) water, allowing the mix to settle and then decanting the liquid into a fermentation vessel with whatever else is being fermented (eg malt liquor). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend using (very) ripe bananas - the type that have black patches on the skin. These have maximum &quot;banana&quot; flavour and fermentable sugars and least starch. IMHO one doesn't want too much starch in banana beer or it becomes too &quot;thick&quot; and &quot;gloopy&quot;. Various brewers have said the shorter (as opposed to the longer) variety of bananas give best results and flavour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T09:32:55.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18684" CreationDate="2016-12-04T10:26:21.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strong &quot;rotten egg&quot; smells are always subjective (&quot;one man's horrendous stench is another man's garlic&quot;). I have noticed some sulphurous smells when producing &quot;fruit ciders&quot; as well as lagers, although nothing as overwhelming as fermenting KimChi! Sulphurous smells during ferementation are not uncommon or indeed fatal when making cider and many other brews. The term &quot;rhino fart&quot; is often humorously used in this context (have a google for it)&#xA;The &quot;problem&quot; seems to be due to the specific yeast chosen. Lager yeasts are known to exhibit this aspect of fermentation. Some yeast have high nitrogen requirements which may not be satisfied by the amount available in the apple/fruit must. In such situation's &quot;rhino farts&quot; can occur and give the impression that something is going wrong with the brew. As others have noted this can be alleviated by adding a nitrogen nutrient to the must. However if the cider fermentation is vigorous and in progress then it would probably be best to let it ferment to completion and let it stand until the aroma has dissipated somewhat. The test is  in the final taste not in the smell during fermentation. Most malodorous aromas are removed by long conditioning. After fermentation I would let cider stand/condition for at least 12 months - whatever it initially smelt like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T10:26:21.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18684" CreationDate="2016-12-04T16:24:02.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sulfur odor is usually a sign of poor yeast heath and/or high sulfur levels in water&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color is change is most likley just yeast in suspension offsetting the true color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sulfur odor is usually gassed off during a vigorous fermentation. It's not too late to save it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Here's what you can do.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Right now you need to add yeast nutrients, this should be done before but may not be too late to get yeast going better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) if fermentation has slowed, you can add corn sugar and a lot of it. 1lb per gallon will keep the fermentation going and almost double your abv making it more an applewine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) if extending the fermentation with sugar isn't desired. (higher abv) You can gas off the sulfur by force. But takes equipment. Using a c02 tank, gas stone, and liter per minute 02 regulator. You can apply gas until the oder is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: That recipe and intructions is a little strange. I don't know where to start.  It says to use unboiled tap water for most of the fermentation volume. Potable water is not always sanitary and usually swimming in organisms that don't harm us, but makes for a less than ideal environment for fermentation. You would do much better just buying preservative free apple juice and some bakers yeast from a grocery store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T22:07:14.977" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T22:07:14.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-04T17:42:00.687" Score="2" ViewCount="1481" Body="&lt;p&gt;How, from a physical standpoint, does keg lube help a gasket to seal better on a keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T15:33:23.553" Title="How does keg lube help gaskets to seal on a keg?" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18689" CreationDate="2016-12-04T19:15:31.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you're using the same type of lube i do on my kegs: a white translucent food grade mineral oil gel, not dissimilar to vaseline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lube allows the o-rings to move against the keg and fittings, but remain in the correct location to create a seal. Without lube, i have trouble getting the lid to slide into place. Lube allows the fittings to glide over the rubber material of the seals. Without the lube, the o-rings may flex out of their grooves, or prevent the lid or gas/liquid lines from fully seating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never gotten my fill lid to seal without using lube; it's possible the lube fills in areas around or between the o-ring and/or fitting, that would otherwise allow passage of gas or liquid. More likely, it allows slight movement of the large o-ring, preventing it from twisting or deforming in ways that would fail to seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8175" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T19:15:31.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18689" CreationDate="2016-12-04T22:21:02.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Silicone spray or gels actually absorb into the seal expanding it slightly and helps it slip into place.&lt;/strong&gt; Overuse can cause the diameter to expand too much to where it won't seal. Use of the wrong lubricant can degrade the o-ring, turning it to a black slime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your keg needs more than light spray of a food grade silicone spray to aid it, the o-ring needs to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T11:24:02.820" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T11:24:02.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18689" CreationDate="2016-12-05T14:24:14.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lubrication on a gasket is there to ensure that as forces are applied to the gasket or seal in a non-uniform manner the seal can slip a little to help prevent distorting and tearing which will affect the integrity of the gasket long term and may impair the quality of the seal formed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the material your O-ring is made from will affect what lubricant you use. In 99% of circumstances you can not go wrong with silicone. But, I have in the past used Vaseline, olive oil, vegetable oil, if you don't have silicone grease to hand, a light vegetable oil or vasaline will work, but they may react with the seal if it is rubber. If the seal itself is made of silicone then you are fine using most any lubricant so long as it is food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T14:24:14.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8177" CreationDate="2016-12-06T02:45:24.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have kept my beer in my garage during Northwest Iowa cold winters. Usually when the outside temp gets to about 0-5 degrees my beer in the garage will start to freeze. So, since my garage is about 10-15 degrees warmer than outside my best guess is at about 15-20&#xA; degrees it will start to freeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14428" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T02:45:24.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-06T12:06:50.333" Score="0" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally left the lid off a completed 21 ltr fermentation bin of white Pinot (from kit).  I'd added the last stage of process (finings etc) - phone went and I forgot to go back and replace lid - it was open for 5 days ish - it seems slightly darker than previous batches but tastes ok - is it ok to bottle?&#xA;Any advice much appreciated - many thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14430" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T07:20:01.390" Title="Accidentally left top off 21 ltr white wine -" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18694" CreationDate="2016-12-06T13:55:02.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be more oxidized, for sure. That's a flaw, but if it still tastes acceptable, then nothing to worry about. Hopefully %ABV was large enough to stop any unwanted microorganisms from setting in. Bottle as usual, but if you will start to get unusual haze, any off-flavors etc, be prepared to discard it. And drink it on the fresher side, don't wait too much for it to mature. I don't expect you will have a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T13:55:02.777" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18706" CreationDate="2016-12-06T14:04:53.270" Score="1" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a cross between &lt;em&gt;Belgian Dark Strong&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Barleywine&lt;/em&gt;. Currently it is it's third day. Starting gravity was ~26 Brix (~1.11 Specific Gravity). I want to push it up with candi sugar, muscovado, dry demerara sugar and caramel. I'll need almost 2kg of these for the effect I want (30 Brix).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I want my yeast to ferment most malt sugars before I'll add simpler ones. There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/fermentation/wort-factors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sources&lt;/a&gt; suggesting that yeast may lose ability to ferment maltose if there is too much simple sugars available. But I don't want to wait for yeast to go dormant either - I'm pushing it 2 percent points above yeast strain alcohol tolerance, so I need them to be active and plentiful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when should I start adding sugar? What should I look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T22:16:30.660" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T09:11:32.787" Title="When to add sugar to big belgian ale?" Tags="|sugar|belgian|partial-mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18696" CreationDate="2016-12-06T17:10:25.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There really is no advantage to waiting to add the sugar.  Get it in there now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T17:10:25.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18694" CreationDate="2016-12-06T17:30:44.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its always difficult to give particular advice on brewing errors as it depends entirely on the circumstances - many of which are often omitted or forgotten. However wine is quite a hardy thing and has been made for centuries in less than &quot;perfectly sterile&quot; conditions. So leaving the lid off the fermented grape juice is not as fatal as it might first appear. I would most definitely recommend bottling the young wine but my inclination would be to leave it for a longer time rather than a shorted time. A lot of errors can be corrected by just conditioning a brew (be it beer or wine) for a sufficient time. It is fair to say that many if not most kit wines are made to be drunk sooner than later, but they often improve greatly with standing - a year is not a long time in wine making! I would bottle, leave it to stand/lay and get on with the next brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T07:20:01.390" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T07:20:01.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-06T18:34:50.593" Score="1" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need some advice on setting up a stand up 30&quot; refrigerator(freezer on top). I have looked at the different Electronic Temperature Controllers, but, can't seem to decide on what is the best one. If possible recommend a site that would help the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14433" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T12:37:58.557" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T22:29:30.683" Title="Converting a fridge for fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18716" CreationDate="2016-12-06T23:35:56.617" Score="3" ViewCount="1207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering two techniques for lowering my specific gravity but am unsure if my methods will work. I am currently fermenting a bock style. It's not a true bock because I don't have the ability to lager, so I used an ale yeast, specifically, Safbrew T-58, per a friend's recommendation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My original gravity was 1.071. After taking 5 measurements over the course of a week, the gravity has stopped at 1.025. I was hoping for it to be a little lower, but I became concerned when I read this yeast may not be ideal for high alcohol brews. Temperature has been ideal according to package. I can't do much about room temperature anyway because my brewery is a spare bedroom in my house. My conclusion is that fermentation is not prematurely stuck, it's just the yeasties are are maxed out and done all they can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought some nutrients and a pack of Safale K-97 dry ale yeast which said &quot;high attenuation&quot; on the package. I don't want to make a whole starter and repitch because I'm worried that will void out my previous SG readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is my question. Can I just agitate the wort a bit and repitch the new yeast with the nutrients (without making a starter)? Do I need both or can I just add one of them? Should I be satisfied with this? I feel that the beer is too sweet right now. Primary fermentation finished almost three weeks ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14436" LastEditorUserId="14436" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T23:44:52.603" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T20:53:14.153" Title="Used Wrong Yeast.... Final Gravity Too High" Tags="|fermentation|yeast-starters|specific-gravity|high-gravity|repitch|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18707" CreationDate="2016-12-07T00:27:10.523" Score="2" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be interested to know if iodine tests are a reliable way to know that all the starch has been converted to sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, is it a good way to know if after 30mn of mash-in all the sugars have been converted? Is there a risk of false negatives? false positives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that this question is different from &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4417/is-the-iodine-test-for-starch-conversion-pointless&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; because I'm not asking if iodine tests are useful in practice (I do not use it for now and never felt that I had to) but I would rather like to know if they work effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14401" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T22:58:03.547" Title="Are Iodine tests reliable?" Tags="|mashing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18699" CreationDate="2016-12-07T00:39:33.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if that's &quot;the best one&quot;, but we decided to use an STC-1000 for temperature regulation and it's working really great for us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially given the price of the thing it's doing exactly what you want it to do. There are videos on the web on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30TvX1Zz1-Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to use them&lt;/a&gt; and if you know a bit about electronic, they're very very easy to setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14401" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T00:39:33.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18699" CreationDate="2016-12-07T02:56:16.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use one of these:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brewerschoice.com.au/shop/brewing-hardware/heaters-and-thermostats/brewing-thermostat-1-socket/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brewerschoice.com.au/shop/brewing-hardware/heaters-and-thermostats/brewing-thermostat-1-socket/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works fine with a little manual calibration - for example, there's a little bit of looseness in the trim pot that has the temp scale on it (the main dial), so understanding the difference between your dial and actual internal temp is critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, it depends upon how precise you want to be as to how much you spend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14217" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T02:56:16.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-07T04:56:05.753" Score="0" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tell me recipe to make sweet beer . Beer are usually sour, hard taste . In india , how to make it at home ? please tell recipe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14437" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T13:48:37.507" Title="How to make sweet beer in india at home" Tags="|fermentation|beer|equipment|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18700" CreationDate="2016-12-07T05:44:34.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you aren't the only one having this problem, however it may just be that it's finished:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=161961&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=161961&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=376552&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=376552&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to be sure, you can just pitch the yeast in directly... from what I have read, starters aren't needed for pitching dried packet yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13818" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:44:34.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18696" CreationDate="2016-12-07T07:58:23.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As this is definitely &quot;an experiment&quot; (great!) I suppose one could go about it with some &quot;scientific procedure&quot;. I agree that yeast begins to falter in very concentrated sugar solutions. There is a point (eg about 8Kg glucose in 24 litres of water) at which the strength of the sugar solution inhibits yeast metabolism. An extreme example is honey (or treacle) which is relatively stable as regards fermentation. Based on this observation one can deduce that one wants to keep the concentration of sugar in solution below a &quot;critical level&quot;. There might be a debate at what that level may be but 4-5Kg of glucose in 24 litres is a reasonable approximation.  This idea (I suppose) is the basis for the above question. The procedure I would follow would be to ferment out the natural sugars (eg maltose) in the wort then add successive batches of sugar (dissolved in in water or even wort)and check the progress of the fermentation with a hydrometer. As the SG dropped so I would be tempted to add more sugar solution until either the allocated sugar was used up or the SG did not reduce further after an addition. That would be the best/easiest way to determine if the yeast could actually cope with the additional sugar. By using such a procedure there would be at worst one dose of excess sugar in the resulting brew. So if one divided the planned 2Kg into say 5x400g batches (or even 10x200g) one could discover what the upper limit was without making a beer that could be ridiculously sweet if all 2Kg of sugar was added at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast concentration may well play some factor in this process. One might imagine that if there was a strong body of yeast in the brew then it may be (slightly?) more active in at a higher ABV. While alcohol is produced anaerobically - growing/budding yeast needs oxygen. So aeration of the wort may be an important aspect of this process. That is usually done initially when mixing or transferring the wort. Most brewers seem not to like aerating their beer once fermentation has started. After some days some do stir up the brew to disperse precipitated yeast during a fermentation. So some action like this may be needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T09:11:32.787" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T09:11:32.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18701" CreationDate="2016-12-07T08:14:47.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they are reliable if you perform them properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You need to be able to see this blue / green hue. It takes some skill to know what's starch and what's just a color of mixing iodine with wort. Worst in dark beers. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Test tells only about starch in sample. If you don't stir, you can have starch still in the grain or at the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even if you stir, you can have starch trapped in grain. It wouldn't end in your brew, leaving it is safe, but it hampers your efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:14:47.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18700" CreationDate="2016-12-07T09:08:25.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One can pitch dry powdered yeast directly into a brew. It often works well but sometimes not. In my entire brewing career(?!?) I have never used a yeast nutrient(!?!). Some do, some don't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually recommend making a starter with yeast in sugar solution as this is the easiest way to check the yeast is actually active before pitching. I have used powdered yeast that has not been active and I only discovered it some days into the brewing. If one pitches a demonstrably active yeast culture then that much is certain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other have also recommended a good rousing/stirring of the brew and any sediment to bring any active yeast back into circulation. Yeast needs oxygen to grow so some aeration of the wort is (at least initially) optimal. If one wants the new yeast to grow some oxygen &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; remain in solution. Alternatively one can pitch a very concentrated yeast starter that already has sufficient yeast to do the fermenting without the need to grow/multiply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the original wort may have had a higher percentage of unfermentable poly-saccharides (eg starch and malto-dextrins) and that is the reason the fermentation has stopped - it has run out of fermentable sugars. One way to improve this situation might be to add some pilsner enzyme to break down the poly saccharides to simpler sugars which can be fermented. That would probably require some lagering for it all to take effect and proceed to completion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T09:08:25.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18710" CreationDate="2016-12-07T14:49:46.003" Score="2" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to attempt a clone of a commercial beer. I already know the hops used and base malt. Obviously I know the ABV too. My question is if I take a gravity reading of the beer from the bottle would that be the FG of the beer as it was produced or would there be a difference eg if there was any bottle conditioning involved. If I have the FG then I could extrapolate the OG and from there work out the grain bill to a fairly large extent given I know the base malt and I can take a fair guess at the colour if any specialty malts were used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T04:10:33.700" Title="Is taking the gravity reading of a commercial beer useful when trying to clone?" Tags="|recipe-formulation|final-gravity|alcohol-content|clone-recipe|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18709" CreationDate="2016-12-07T15:09:07.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be sure to measure at 20°C, or whatever temperature your device is designed for. If you are using refractometer, you are going to need some fancy calculations I can't help you with. If you're using hydrometer, make sure it shows 0 in pure water, and shake your sample before measuring,to get rid of CO&lt;sub&gt;2 &lt;/sub&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottle conditioning may change a bit, but if you are willing to use %ABV from the bottle it's no issue. In many jurisdictions it's ±0.5% points anyway. This translates to ±10% of grain in typical 5% beer. With such a wide margin you have to accept, processes like bottle conditioning have little meaning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specialty malts are much more than color. To figure them out use taste and, if avaliable, style description. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T15:09:07.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18709" CreationDate="2016-12-07T15:27:19.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously one place to look for any hints and tips are the various brew fora and recipe lists. Most commercial beers have a &quot;guessed&quot; list going on somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SG of the bottled beer (in most large scale commercial brewery examples) is practically the same as the FG of the brew. Filtering usually removes the yeast and effectively stops further fermentation so little changes as regards the SG of the bottled beer vs the FG of the brew. For &quot;craft ales&quot; containing live yeast and/ or other biological agents the beer can continue conditioning for a while which may result in altered (read lower) SG compared to FG in the brewery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that information one could indeed &quot;do the math&quot; and take an educated guess at the malt bill. It would be remarkably fortunate to brew an exact copy on the first attempt but with a few adjustments one can usually get very close. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T16:40:27.280" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T16:40:27.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18719" CreationDate="2016-12-07T15:29:38.597" Score="2" ViewCount="783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed by first DIPA, which is batch number 3 for me when it comes to all-grain brewing.  I've forced carbonated before, but this is the first time I tried to speed up the process by agitating the keg for a couple minutes at 30 psi, then put the keg in my kegerator for about 18 hours.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I poured my first beer it had carbonation, but it didn't have any head.  At that point I increased the psi to 20 and let it sit for another 12 hours, but there was little to no change.  I'm wondering if the beer just isn't carbonated enough at this point to give me any head yet?  I've read other posts here and elsewhere.  I understand that oils from dirty glasses or a rinse-aid may be the culprit, but that is not the case here.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, my grain bill consisted of:&#xA;pale 2-row  (11 lbs)&#xA;white wheat (2 lbs)&#xA;20L crystal (12 oz.)&#xA;Cara-Pils (8 oz.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that the cara-pils should help with head retention, but if there's no head it can't retain :-).  My other concern is that I don't want to over carbonate it, and since I tried the quick force carb way rather than the set it and forget it method I'm unsure how long I should keep my psi up to carbonate it to proper levels.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastActivityDate="2018-07-14T03:40:11.360" Title="Lack of head from under carbonation? A force carb question" Tags="|beer|carbonation|kegging|force-carbonation|head|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18699" CreationDate="2016-12-07T17:55:18.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I converted a chest freezer to a 5 tap &quot;keezer,&quot; started with the STC-1000, but it only shows °C, found the same thing (Inkbird ITC-1000) on Amazon that would do °F, was around $15. I already had the other stuff for it (enclosure, etc), but you could pick up the rest of what you need pretty cheap and have a controller that will do both heat and cold for hardly more than $30 if that.  So far I've not had any problems, and like the unit.  Heck, at $15 even if I burn it up, cheap enough to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got mine set to 37°F (3°C) with a 3 minute cycle and a 1 °F variation.  I put the sensor in a small glass of water to stabilize temp fluctuations, and so far it's been right on the money.  It's pretty easy to set up, the schematics on on the top of the unit, and there's a number of videos and how-tos on the web for putting one together, but if you have any electrical skill it's intuitive to say the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazon also sells a number of ready-to-go controllers around the $50 range, but they're pretty basic, just didn't seem worth the money when I could make something better and for less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14439" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T14:17:13.370" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T14:17:13.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18712" CreationDate="2016-12-07T19:31:33.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might just need to let it carbonate at 20 psi for a longer period of time.  I had a DIPA that didn't hit optimal carbonation for about a week at 20 psi.  With the initial agitation at 30 psi, you might even have less of a wait.  Just be sure to pull a sample daily until you get it to where you want it to be to ensure you don't over carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14427" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T19:31:33.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18158" CreationDate="2016-12-07T19:40:43.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using a Cornelius keg (or Corny keg), and you're worried about fermentation not being complete, you could grab a keg lid with an air lock fitting and leave that on for a little longer before carbonating the keg.  Obviously switch to the standard lid before adding CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.org/Cornelius-Keg-Lid-for-Secondary-Fermenter_p_999.html?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=shopping&amp;amp;gclid=CI_J3Izq4tACFQUQaQodWg4PBQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cornelius Keg Lid for Secondary Fermenter for sale @ Hombrewing.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14427" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T19:40:43.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18700" CreationDate="2016-12-07T20:43:09.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I strongly advise against yeast nutrients, unless you are sure that this addition will not be sensed in finished beer even if yeast will fall to eat it. Once I had a batch less than optimal due to this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you can just stir gently. This may sometimes be all you really need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, more reliable way is to add a packet or three (yes, three, really) of rehydrated dry yeast. With three packets, cell count should be enough to finish big beer even in unfavorable conditions. To be more specific, use pitching calculator. Then multiply by 2, because some cells won't do it in wort already with alcohol. Then use cell count from manufacturer to see how much you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third option is one I prefer. Make a new beer with yeast you need. Small one, about 10-12°Blg. Nutrients, aeration, all that. As soon as you have a slurry, transfer new beer to secondary, and slurry to the stuck beer. That way, your yeast will be fresh, active and accustomed to having alcohol in solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T20:53:14.153" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T20:53:14.153" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18704" CreationDate="2016-12-07T21:14:46.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate to say that, but &lt;strong&gt;buy a brew kit online&lt;/strong&gt;. That way you will not need to worry about what's available, you will get what you need in one neat package. Pay for fastest shipping possible to get it still fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you succeed, great. We then can help you with ingredients substitution. If you fail, still good. Tell us what exactly you did and how exactly you failed and we will be able to help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually encourage people to go all grain from the beginning, but if malted grain is not available and you have a history of failures, starting with something already partially made may be good way to find out what works for you, and to boost your morale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="2788" LastEditDate="2016-12-08T13:48:37.507" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T13:48:37.507" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18709" CreationDate="2016-12-07T22:49:28.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short yes, it helps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a SG reading from a hydrometer and a refractometer you can get the OG within 0.001 or so and obviously the FG, both are very useful in replicating an unknown recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing the OG is very important and makes guessing the grain bill that much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also having an accurate SRM helps a lot with calculating the specialty malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beersmith and Brewzor have the calculators to get the OG from post fermentation gravities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T22:49:28.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18712" CreationDate="2016-12-07T23:04:58.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It could be undercarbed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try the plug and forget method, set at serving psi 12 and let it sit for a week.&#xA;If in a rush, set to 12psi attached to the out port and tip the keg on its side slightly and swirl until it doesn't take c02 any more (you can hear the regulator and bubbles in the keg), then it's fully carbed in 30min or so (needs to be at serving temp for best results)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But.....&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the mouthfeel of your beer has appropriate carbonation, the head issue is elswhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carapills should have helped, it basically replaces the need for a protein rest in the mash, focused for head retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience the proteins that aid head retention can easily be lost in the brew process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Couple things to avoid and help the head&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Don't over use boil finings. I've completely disconinued the use of moss and whirlflocs. Cold crash and time gets the beer brilliant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) keep the hot break in the pot. I've seen many use the practice of removing the foam to prevent boilovers but this reduces head forming particles. Instead push it back in with a fry scoop or use a couple Foamcontrol drops in the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Make sure your fermenter has enough head space to hold the krausen. If it pumps out into your blow off, then there's more head forming proteins gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that if this DIPA is pushing higher ABVs head retention becomes that more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-12-08T14:14:11.463" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T14:14:11.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18709" CreationDate="2016-12-08T04:10:33.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've thought about doing this myself, but ruled it out because I imagine the carbonation in a commercial beer, or any final beer product for that matter, would give an inaccurate reading. Maybe if you let the beer go flat first you would get a more accurate reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14436" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T04:10:33.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18712" CreationDate="2016-12-08T17:06:42.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue is that the CO2 hasn't had time to fully dissolve into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T17:06:42.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18421" CreationDate="2016-12-09T07:16:11.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only sure way to know are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask the manufacturer &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visit certification station. Or whatever is the proper name, the point where divers go to have their gear certified when previous certificate is no longer valid. They might be able to test for you. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy fittings with pressure ratings documented. Probably cheaper than option 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T07:16:11.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18724" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-10T00:42:39.183" Score="4" ViewCount="4818" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some brewers use Bentonite clay as a way to clarify their product, after the fermentation is done. It seems that proteins do not pass through, making for a cleaner beverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if this also has other effects on the final product, and if it does affect it, how: nose? aspect? foam? head retention? does it change anything with the use of hops during dry hoping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, given the fact that proteins do not pass, what's the effect on yeast? Do they pass, what happens for refermentation? Do we need to force-carbonate once filtered or do yeast pass trough and adding sugar will work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14401" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T18:58:05.437" Title="What are the downsides of using bentonite for producing beer?" Tags="|clarification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18701" CreationDate="2016-12-10T20:10:27.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is very much a risk of false readings.  I know of people who kept mashing for 4-5 hours because the test showed no conversion.  That's pretty much impossible.  As was said from molot &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/18707/14231&quot;&gt;above&lt;/a&gt;, if you do it right, you can get useful info, but it's all too easy to mess it up.  It also tells you nothing about the types of sugars you have.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I prefer to check conversion, if I do, using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Understanding_Efficiency#Measuring_conversion_efficiency&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;braukaiser conversion efficiency chart.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T09:47:12.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18724" CreationDate="2016-12-11T07:21:58.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is use and overuse. As with all fining agents, overuse may drop too much yeast from suspension, leaving you with slower refermentation. It would be hard to totally stop refermentation, but I think it might be possible. If used moderately, I double the time I wait. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overuse may also cause problems with head, I've read. But never had this happen or heard it happened from anyone I knew. Maybe we just didn't use that much? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most findings make colour a little bit brighter. This may be either good or bad, but difference isn't big. I feel bentonite makes biggest difference, but I didn't have representative sample of batches to tell for sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never heard or felt it to affect aroma of dry hopping or any other aromatic additions in secondary. It helps to leave them in the bucket when transferring to the bottling tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-12-11T07:21:58.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-11T18:00:43.353" Score="2" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a Belgian Pale Ale on Monday (12). It's my first time and using BeerSmith has been of great help. These last few days have filled me with a whole lot of doubts though. After fermantation is done (2-3 days with the same FG value) I'm gonna drop temperature down to 10 °C for maturation. On Beersmith it says under Carbonation and Storage tab that keg/bottling temperature is 21,1 °C, carbonation used is about 175 g DME, aging time is 30 days and storage temperature is 18,3 °C. Is 30 days the time I should leave the beer in the fermentation bucket maturing at 10 °C or the time i should leave the bottled beer resting? If the latter, how long should I leave beer for during maturation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14455" LastActivityDate="2016-12-12T17:54:49.083" Title="Post-fermentation Belgian Pale Ale" Tags="|fermentation|conditioning|maturation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-11T22:53:35.230" Score="3" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to find something about this topic; no luck. So here's my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beside the fact that my beer went crasy and took control of my airlock liquid ahah, could you tell me what is that white sediment on the bottom? Is it yeast or sugar, or something else? Is it normal? I'm not actually worried about the beer itself, but I just want to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bYuFg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bYuFg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;JF&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14457" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T15:56:23.390" Title="White sediment inside my airlock" Tags="|airlock|sediment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18729" CreationDate="2016-12-12T09:16:04.933" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks just like yeast to me. If foam rushed into your airlock, this is really probable. Sugars are dissolved and you won't see them as a layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would replace the airlock with clean one - that way, you wouldn't have to worry what it actually is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-12-12T09:16:04.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18727" CreationDate="2016-12-12T12:42:57.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't rely on Beersmith/software for the timing of any stage of the process.  Brewing is predictable to some extent, but it's not that clear cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ferment your beer until it's done. You already see to understand the stable FG rule so that's good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After fermentation, you'll transfer to a bottling bucket and add your sugar.  You want the beer to condition (carbonate) at room temperature in the bottles for a couple of weeks.  For the carbonation process, it's always better to wait a week at least, then simply chill one bottle and crack it open and see if it's ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for aging time for flavor improvements or maturation: software absolutely can't help you with that.  There is no formula.  Once the beer is carbonated you can chill it down to fridge temps or keep it at cellar temps.  Most homebrewers just drink the beer as they want.  It if seems to peak in flavor or seem to start to decline drastically, we usually invite friends over and drink it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="2788" LastEditDate="2016-12-12T13:48:36.340" LastActivityDate="2016-12-12T13:48:36.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18727" CreationDate="2016-12-12T17:54:49.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beersmith is great software to help you brew the way you'd like but it's not instructions about how to brew.  Use it as a tool, not an instructor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-12-12T17:54:49.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18617" CreationDate="2016-12-13T17:11:18.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;304 should be good enough for anything you are brewing, the wort will not affect it. 316 which is also know as (Marine grade stainless[1])  has 2% molybdenum which makes it more corrosion resistant, especially to chlorides, but for anything you are brewing 304 will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cleaning, if you are using strong caustics then rinsing and re-passivating with Phosphoric or Per-acetic, is important no matter what Stainless you go with. If you don't you will leach iron out into the wort and get an annoying metallic taste in your beer, as Caustic strips off the oxide layer that protects the stainless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using chloride solutions for sanitation, always wash thoroughly and rinse with a acidic solution to re-passivate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chlorides also strip off the oxide layer and attack the underlying steel. When stainless cools there for small nodes around sulphur compounds that draw the nickel out of the steel to them leaving susceptible regions that the Cl- ions can attack. The addition of molybdenum to 316 helps prevent/protect this and prevents pitting. Once pits form, corrosion promoting chemicals can sit in them and accelerate the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marine_grade_stainless&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marine_grade_stainless&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T17:11:18.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18729" CreationDate="2016-12-13T19:27:47.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ditto, most likely yeast.  Try and use a &quot;blow off tube&quot; next time as the krausen is forming, usually during the first few days after the start of fermentation.... depending on fermentation temp, type of yeast, etc.  When krausen falls or as it is falling replace blow off tube with a sanitized airlock. This link has some images of blow off tubes. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42617&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewing blow off tube images&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14450" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T09:46:52.423" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T09:46:52.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18724" CreationDate="2016-12-13T21:17:24.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used betonite in wine, and I must tell you that I don't think I will ever use it again.  Not only it clarifies, but it also stripes some color and flavor out, so be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, you should used it as a last resort if you are a having clarity problems, so it will also depend on which type of beer you are making.  Racking is usually enough for me to get the beer clarified enough to my taste, but if you are aiming for a light and crystal clear beer (like a &quot;coors light&quot;) it might work.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to use it, I recommend adding it after the completion of the fermentation (and after racking) because Bentonite requires to be mixed, and you don't want to move the sediments around.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not done bottle fermentation after using bentonite, but you can still add some yeast just before bottling (which might affect the clarity again), so forced carbonation seems the best option if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T21:17:24.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18623" CreationDate="2016-12-14T10:00:31.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After primary fermentation maintaining 20C is not critical, you would probably want to store it a bit cooler, I always do my secondary conditioning in the cellar at about 12C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During primary fermentation temperature control will affect the esters and higher alcohol production from the yeast. After the first 5 days this become less important, but will still have a small affect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T20:49:18.367" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T20:49:18.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18742" CreationDate="2016-12-18T02:58:54.780" Score="0" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &quot;Maytag Handy Chiller&quot; - it's a great kitchen tool for chilling a bottle of wine in a few minutes which works buy circulating ice water over a bottle ( and optionally rotating it too ) to get the liquid down to drinking temp in a few minutes. We got it free with our fridge when we bought it - the kind of thing I'd never fork out for but I love it for the many times it's enabled consumption under non ideal circumstances :-) — basically it works great and chills the beer /white wine etc right down really fast and doesn't seem to screw with the taste in any way that I've noticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, since I started homebrewing I've used it more than I had in the past when I suddenly figured I'd sample a bottle that was actually still meant to be in conditioning. My question is this ... I know that beer absorbs CO2 during refrigeration but does anyone know whether this absorption is this related more to temperature, or to time at that temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will force chilling like this have a similar effect on carbonation absorption as if I had left it in the fridge overnight ( because it basically seems to have roughly that effect on the temperature ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T18:55:18.733" Title="Does force chilling have the same effect as regular chilling as far as carbonation absorption is concerned?" Tags="|carbonation|chilling|chemistry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18741" CreationDate="2016-12-18T12:32:48.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dissolving CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; takes time. Area of contact between gas and liquid in bottle is really small. Thus, I doubt that few minutes would really help carbonate much. Of course, this is not totally pointless. By chilling fast, you can maximize time at optimal temperature. But use this as a step before putting bottle to fridge for a night, not instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least: &lt;strong&gt;try&lt;/strong&gt;. Have one bottle in the fridge for a night or few days, and speed chill another bottle. Then, pour both and try both. No amount of theory and advice will ever substitute for one experiment and personal experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T12:32:48.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18741" CreationDate="2016-12-18T17:28:04.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's related to both....given cold and warm temps and the same amount of time, the cold liquid will absorb more.   Same temp, more time for CO2 to dissolve into solution, the one with more time will have better carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-12-19T18:55:18.733" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T18:55:18.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18745" CreationDate="2016-12-19T02:15:11.023" Score="5" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed a witbier that was way below the estimated preboil gravity of 1.49. I only got 1.34 in case you're wondering.  I've never had that bad of an efficiency before.  The grains came prepackaged and my guess it that either the total weight of the grain was light and/or some of it wasn't crushed properly.  Or, for whatever reason my brewhouse or my brain decided to take a break that day.  RHAHB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get it back up to the expected preboil gravity I added DME to get it to 1.49, or so says my hydrometer after my temp adjustment.  I must have done something wrong in my calcs, because my OG ended being 1.66 instead of 1.56.  That, combined with my yeast starter is going to prove a very boozy witbier.  More than I want, actually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already pitched and want to see through the fermentation process without topping off, partly because I want to see if I can notice the difference (isn't that what homebrewing is all about?) and partly because I don't want to mess with the primary since my blowoff tube looks like I've just brewed a DIPA.  If I find it too boozy am I able to top-off after the primary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can always add water in the secondary or the keg before I force carbonate.  Physically adding water to reduce the PPG in not an issue, but I'm not sure if there are any ramifications to the beer itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T18:07:16.250" Title="Can I fix a higher than anticipated OG after primary?" Tags="|beer|brewing|specific-gravity|original-gravity|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18744" CreationDate="2016-12-19T07:01:00.213" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding water after primary fermentation is possible and called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/articles/brewing_high_gravity_beers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;high gravity brewing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. Yeast produce more esters at higher gravity which is a disadvantage for most beer types, but often desired e.g. for &lt;a href=&quot;http://braumagazin.de/article/brewing-bavarian-weissbier-all-you-ever-wanted-to-know/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hefeweizen&lt;/a&gt;. For a witbier is shouldn't be a problem, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13959" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T07:01:00.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18746" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-19T11:17:25.990" Score="5" ViewCount="605" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the title really... if you had tannin level on one axis of a graph and pH on another, how would the cider vary across this 'spectrum'? More acidic I can imagine will taste... more acidic ;) But I'm wondering how a low/none amount of tannin would taste, or a very non-acidic must. Would you get something sweet, or just bland and insipid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T14:13:47.970" Title="How does tannin level and acidity affect cider taste/style?" Tags="|cider|ph|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2016-12-20T00:04:29.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went looking for this answer and found the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although Ninemaidens Gwires is a marketed brand for distilled mead, it is not a true name for this liquor as Gwires is a generic term used for 'alcoholic spirit'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However; I found Medovača (pronounced medovacha) in Croatia. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not a faux version of Honey Brandy (ie: clean spirit like vodka or rakija with honey mixed in for flavouring) which is also available and sold as Medica (medi-tsa); but rather Medovača is a true distillation of basic honey mead with no additional honey mixed into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end product is as you would expect, a crystal clear brandy with very smooth and subtle honey flavours both on the tongue and after swallowing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its worth noting that the appearance of MED in the title is how you say honey in Croatian and as such this name is unique to this spirit and not a generic term like Gwires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the time and cost it takes to make good mead of high enough ABV for distillation, its no surprise that its not a commonly known beverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14481" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T14:17:50.607" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T14:17:50.607" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-12-20T00:04:29.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18662" CreationDate="2016-12-20T14:39:21.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of nitrogen-containing substances in malt does not correlate with the produced fermentable suger. Yeast needs (like most creatures) amino acids for propagation. If no amino acids are available, yeast can synthesize them from inorganic compounds, e.g. ammonium (which is usually added as nutrition salt for cider fermentation [apple juice has not enough amino acids or other nitrogen sources]). Malt contains naturally proteins. To produce amino acids as yeast nutrition, these proteins must be degraded. Modern malt houses produce malt with already degraded proteins, therefore usually no protein rest during mashing has to be made. A small amount of non-degraded proteins are needed for the foam, but too much makes the beer hazy. Hence, for brewing purpose, barley with a lower protein content than for baking is used. A protein rest (around 55 °C) should usually be made for adjunct-rich mashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13959" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T14:39:21.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18689" CreationDate="2016-12-20T15:33:23.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the short answer is that it doesn't. Also that the name 'lube' is misleading. What it is doing is preventing the o-rings from drying out. A dry o-ring is not going to seal. Silicone rubber kept under cold, dry temperatures looses moisture. The keg lube merely aids in preventing the drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T15:33:23.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18744" CreationDate="2016-12-20T18:07:16.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer above is partially incomplete and partially incorrect.  Yeast do not necessarily produce more esters at higher OG, although it is possible.  Using the proper amount of healthy yeast, that can be avoided.  That's th partially incorrect part.  The incomplete part is that while you can certainly add water post fermentation, you want to preboil the water to deoxygenate it, then allow it to cool covered so it doesn't reabsorb too much O2.  Preboiling to deoxygenate will prevent the water from oxidizing your beer.  We discuss just this issue on Episode 30 of the Experimental Brewing podcast, available as of 12/21/16 at www.experimentalbrew.com if you'd like more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T18:07:16.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-22T06:04:13.263" Score="4" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've today added the finnings. According to the instructions I should now leave it for another 2.5 days before bottling. What would happen if I leave it another 2 days longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14490" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2016-12-23T10:59:18.417" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T23:57:21.773" Title="Fermentation before bottling" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-22T06:58:29.010" Score="2" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;Still on my first brew! Everyone talks about secondary buckets and bottling buckets... what are they? I bought a kit and there's no mention of any other buckets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14490" LastEditorDisplayName="user8292" LastEditDate="2017-06-08T17:15:09.877" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T17:15:09.877" Title="I don't have secondary buckets" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18754" CreationDate="2016-12-22T08:12:37.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;W.r.t. secondary buckets, the idea goes that leaving your beer too long on the yeast will start giving off-flavours. So, after your first fermentation has slowed down, you then siphon it into a another bucket, leaving only the yeast in the beer and maybe some siphoned off, but not the inch-thick yeast cake in the fermentation bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, it seems that in the last years it has been recognised that this off-flavour process is not so fast, and that moving to secondary is not so acute. I use it for beers that I want extra clear, or beers that really need some time in secondary, like high-gravity brews or bock e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, you should be good leaving your beer for up to two weeks in fermentation. Actually, you should measure your gravity, but two weeks is really a good rule of thumb, and sometimes you will not reach your final gravity (I had that with a porter a couple of weeks ago which had a lot of unfermentable material).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can bottle, and here is the story of the bottling bucket. It is used to mix your fermented beer with priming sugar. This priming sugar is prepared with some water, then boiled, then poured into the (sanitised) bottling bucket, and then the beer is racked over it. After that, you rack the beer into your bottles (have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thekitchn.com/how-to-bottle-beer-the-kitchns-beer-school-2015-217267#gallery/49581/0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;How to bottle beer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also bottle after two weeks from the fermenter, but you will need a good racking cane and you will need to exercise to reduce the amount of splashing and losses. In that case, you would need to measure the priming sugar for each bottle and add it to each one. Or you could buy priming tablets, but those are not always matched to the size of the bottles, which means that you would need to cut them up. Then after putting the priming sugar into the bottles, you can rack your beer into the bottles. While this is a good exercise, and good to learn part of the process, it will leave you with a large loss of beer above the trub of the fermenter, or some bottles with a lot of extra yeast, which will then lead to off-flavours, either from decomposition of the yeast (long-term), a bitter taste because of the yeast (short term), and a not so easy to pour beer, which then leads again to loss of beer because you can't pour everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a bottling bucket that I made from a 2-gallon (or 2.5, its actually 11 liter) plastic food grade bucket, with a plastic spigot (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8C4ck.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8C4ck.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;this&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;), to which I hang a silicone rubber hose, and a bottling tube. The spigot's thread is 3/4&quot;, and I screw a brass, 90° tube fitting over it to minimise the loss. I don't brew big batches, so for me that bucket is enough. Adjust your volumes to what you brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A last word: clean and sanitise, clean and sanitise, clean and sanitise. Everything that will and could contact your beer, your buckets, your material, your counter, wash your hands, clean and brush your bottles before use, and let them drip out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's a whole lot, but the above is from my current experience. Buy a good book about brewing, there are enough. Do not worry, but do clean!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T08:12:37.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18759" CreationDate="2016-12-22T19:18:39.410" Score="1" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I added a pot of coffee to my secondary without thinking much about the water content. Now the SG is lower than I want (weak body). Could I put it back into the kettle and boil the excess water off without destroying it?  Any other options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1990" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T11:09:46.213" Title="Increase gravity in secondary" Tags="|specific-gravity|secondary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18758" CreationDate="2016-12-22T22:40:29.167" Score="2" ViewCount="1187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an idea for cycling chilled water through something like a small copper wort chiller during fermentation to keep the temperature down. I have no problem setting up the peltier, pump, and thermostat - but I'm uncertain if it's ok to leave the copper in the fermenter with the beer the whole fermentation, or what tubing to use. Thinking about using some soft copper tubing like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/2M-Soft-Microbore-Copper-Tube-Pipe-OD-4mm-x-ID-3mm-For-Refrigeration-Plumbing-/322059026257?hash=item4afc36bf51:g:~LkAAOSwGOxW~eWf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;copper tubing off ebay&quot;&gt;refrigerator copper tubing off ebay&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would using copper tubing like this in the fermentation be likely to affect the beer?&#xA;Here is a rough sketch of what I'm thinking of trying: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0l9ZM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0l9ZM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3283" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T22:18:07.983" Title="Idea for cooling fermentation with copper pipe" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|copper|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18757" CreationDate="2016-12-23T04:56:47.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on what John Palmer says about &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/appendices/appendix-b/brewing-metallurgy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cleaning copper with various acids&lt;/a&gt;, I wouldn't use copper in the acidic environment of fermenting beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get your hands on a stainless coil though, the idea will work. SS Brewtech has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ssbrewtech.com/products/ftss-temp-control-for-7-gallon-bucket-chronical&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fermentation Temp Stabilization System&lt;/a&gt; along these lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T04:56:47.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18756" CreationDate="2016-12-23T11:09:46.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't boil it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not just add sugar as this will be converted straight to alcohol and thin out the body/mouth feel further. Todd's suggestion to add some maltodextrine will give you a fuller body, but without adding any alcohol as most of the longer poly saccharides are unconvertible by yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add a little sugar and a little of the maltodextrine, to give you the ABV you wanted to account for the extra volume and add a bit of body back that you have thinned out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you could bottle it, and let it carb up, as the carbonation will help a little with the perception of body and mouthfeel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I add coffee I normally add the grounds and let it steep for a 1-2 weeks or I add a couple of shots of espresso, both to secondary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last coffee/chocolate stout I did the coffee and cocoa went straight into the primary and I still got a fair amount coming through in the bottles. I did add twice as much as the recipe suggested to compensate for the CO2 carrying off the aromas. This had no secondary and went straight into bottles from the Primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T11:09:46.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18753" CreationDate="2016-12-23T11:14:55.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are leaving the time for the finings to bind the yeast together and then giving them time to drop to the bottom of your FV. If you leave this a week longer all that will happen is the finings will sit at the bottom holding onto your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ever drop your beer into casks you can add finings and leave the cask sitting around for a month, the finings don't explode, taint the beer, etc....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-04-12T13:35:12.673" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T13:35:12.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18763" CreationDate="2016-12-23T15:52:59.440" Score="2" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a chest freezer with a thermostat dial on the outside of the unit, so why do I need another temperature controller? What's wrong with taping and insulating a wired digital thermometer to the carboy and adjusting the temperature with the freezer thermostat based on the digital thermometer? I can't find any posts that address this. All I keep reading is that you need an external controller&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14436" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T16:56:03.803" Title="Why do I need a temperature controller if I have a freezer/refrigerator?" Tags="|temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18729" CreationDate="2016-12-23T15:56:23.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely it is just yeast. I also use a blow off tube for primary fermentation. There are two main benefits. First, it allows all the pressure to escape as fast as it can be generated without mucking up your airlocks. Secondly, it allows some of the krausen to be removed without risking contamination. Charlie Papazian's book, &quot;The Joy of Home Brewing&quot; shows you how to use a blow off tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14436" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T15:56:23.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18761" CreationDate="2016-12-23T16:56:03.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason you need an external temperature controller is because the thermostat on a fridge or freezer isn't in the right temperature range. Also they are typically not calibrated and offer only approximate control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some appliances have a digital thermostat, and you might be able to use these if they fall within the required temperature range. For example, I have a fridge that will go up to 9C/48F, which is fine for fermenting lagers. A diacetyl rest at 66F/17C is out of the temperature range, so I did that by moving the beer to a room at that temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a temperature controller allows you to target any temperature range independently of the fridge thermostat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T16:56:03.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18701" CreationDate="2016-12-23T22:58:03.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using Iodine works very well as long as you let the wort settle before taking a test sample. If you take a test sample that has ANY grain in it, the sample will continue to show high starch because of the grain. Make sure and let the wort settle before taking a sample so that you only pick up clear wort with no grain included. That will give you a good test. Usually within an hour or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13691" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T22:58:03.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18768" CreationDate="2016-12-24T11:55:10.857" Score="5" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read that after fermentation finishes, there is no harm in waiting before priming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using kits, and wort is 4 gallons. Can I bottle 1 gallon of beer, and leave the remaining gallons in fermenter to bottle next week? From what I understand from guides, it seems once I open the fermenter I should bottle all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have enough bottles, or lets say I don't want to fill my home with bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14496" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2016-12-25T06:46:53.160" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T13:34:20.793" Title="Should I bottle whole batch after fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|priming|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18767" CreationDate="2016-12-24T12:40:45.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can bottle up some and leave the rest it should be fine. I have done this before and it was fine. I usually add a spoonful of sugar to the FV to ensure it generates a bit more CO2 to 'blanket' it after drawing out the volume into bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-04-12T13:34:20.793" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T13:34:20.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18757" CreationDate="2016-12-24T16:15:07.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than circulate a coolant, you could also mount the peltier on top of a long heatsink (SS304) that extends into the beer. Use a H-bridge to change the direction of the peltier so you can switch it from heating or cooling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T16:15:07.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18045" CreationDate="2016-12-24T23:47:09.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own and operate a vinegar company:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer style certainly effects the process and outcome of fermented vinegar. Vinegar bacteria is as unique as your environment, some strains being more aggressive or tolerable than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preference with style is only dependent on how much home-brew you may mess up or what your desired end-flavor may be. Lighter beers ferment out with lower acidity due to their generally lower alcohol levels. Reds, browns and doubles can ferment out to be your average dry vinegar with great acidity. Strong ales or boozy beers can ferment out with acidity with residual sugars to balance the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its best to understand vinegar fermentation as if you were fermenting wort. But when using aceto-bacter (AB), your fuel is alcohol, not sugar. Try fermenting a 5 Gallon LME to 4 gallons water with some basic 001. Let it go for 2 weeks, transfer to a vessel that allows breathing but is covered with cheese cloth. You will need a proven AB inoculation. 3 months later you'll have vinegar (assuming 65 to 90 degrees). Keep in mind lots of off flavors are produced through the process but it ultimately cleans out to great aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vinegar is like a college student, it loves: dark, warmth, alcohol and air&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay SOUR!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14500" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T23:47:09.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18774" CreationDate="2016-12-26T19:39:17.223" Score="1" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have added the clearing agent to my brew...on the 22nd of December. But, just pulled a sample to check numbers before bottling...and its still a little milky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this normal?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will it clear up the longer it stands?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it become clearer  after bottling and carbonation?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a problem?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The numbers on the hydrometer haven't dropped to 1000 as per the instructions.  But, I was told by a homebrew shop owner that it doesn't matter as long as you get 3 readings the same? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a Brigalow homebrew kit. I don't know what the finnings are called, they just what came with the kit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14490" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T11:45:21.793" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T11:45:21.793" Title="Milkiness after adding clearing agent (finnings)" Tags="|bottling|finings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18772" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-27T00:25:09.100" Score="1" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being my very first brew...and from a kit. I worked on just room temperature.....Im in Queensland Australia. So between 24 and 28 degrees Celsius. Which I found out is too high? Kit never stated anything about specific temp. Probably shouldve done some research! How would this affect my beer? Should I then let my beer mature in the bottles at the same temperature range or in the fridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14490" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T12:30:31.417" Title="Fermenting temperature in Queensland Australia" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18772" CreationDate="2016-12-27T08:33:56.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;High temperature may give you fruity esters, phenols and other substances like that. Probably still better than &quot;eurolager&quot; or other mass-produced beer, but not great for most styles.  As long as you stay under 30°C, yeast should do pretty fine and batch should work out to be drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your temperatures, I sure hope you like belgian styles, because yeast for them kinda like it hot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/yeast-strain/belgian-strong-ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wyeast 1388&lt;/a&gt; up to 80F / 28°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wyeastlab.com/yeast-strain/belgian-abbey-style-ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wyeast 1214&lt;/a&gt; up to 78F / 26°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast-bank/wlp550-belgian-ale-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;White Labs WLP550&lt;/a&gt; up to 78F/ 26°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentum-mobile.pl/en/portfolio-item/fm26/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fermentum Mobile FM26&lt;/a&gt; up to 24°C  officially, I had good effect even near 28°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mangrove Jack's - Belgian Ale M27 likes it up to 32°C. Might be discontinued as I can't find it on their page now, but still avaliable in the stores. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and  more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, your temperatures are pretty OK with any style that calls for belgian yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no affiliation with any of manufacturers listed. I'm only an user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T12:02:11.087" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T12:02:11.087" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18771" CreationDate="2016-12-27T08:57:04.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK. First things first, kits are neat, but if &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bigw.com.au/product/brigalow-complete-home-brew-kit/p/WCC100000000008476/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;someone&lt;/a&gt; lists their fining agent just as &lt;em&gt;&quot;7g Sachet Beer Finings (Clearing Agent)&quot;&lt;/em&gt; I urge you not to put that stuff in your beer. Prefer kits without yeast and fining agents and choose them yourself. Or at least use kits that tells you what's in them, exactly. Or just unhopped extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mild milkiness is expected with gelatin, bentonite and isinglass. It comes from two things, the colour of your fining agent, and the fact you needed to stir your batch, lifting up yeast back into suspension. With isinglass it usually took few days to go down. With bentonite a bit more, about a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what you can do is to try and &quot;cold crash&quot; it.  If it's winter on your hemisphere, simply put fermenter outside. Don't let it freeze, just let it cool. A day or two should do the job. Alternatively, bottle as is, and put bottles in a fridge.  Once yeast and other stuff settles down on the bottom, it tends to stay there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T08:57:04.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-28T12:46:41.710" Score="1" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my short career in the home brew world I've always transferred the beer from the primary to bottle without a siphon (directly from the spigot). I've started to see that this made my beer darker and with unwanted components(oxidation). So I'm deciding now between an auto siphon or a CO2 cylinder and etc for a closed system. In that sense how the two compare to each other in terms of oxidation prevention? If possible a comparison in terms of percentage would be great, like a closed system offers 0% and an autosiphon 30% prevention (something like this). Does the expenditure on the cylinder and the needed gadgets really worth the investment? Tks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T23:51:11.357" Title="Closed System vs. Siphon" Tags="|co2|racking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18775" CreationDate="2016-12-28T16:01:39.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've  been using a siphon for 4 years with little downside (friends like the product).  It is simple and inexpensive.  I'd recommend you go that route as the investment is small. You can always spend more money later ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T16:01:39.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18757" CreationDate="2016-12-28T22:18:07.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Peltier cooling/heating system to control the temperature of a water bath around the carboy. That is much simpler and avoids any problems with sanitation of the cooling coil, etc. The carboy contains only pure beer. I have measured the temperature difference between the center of the beer and the outside at the peak of fermentation and it is only about 0.5 F, so that is much better than a carboy being cooled by air. By the way, I didn't see a temperature sensor in your setup.  In my case the bath is in an insulated cooler so the heat gain from the environment is small. The only downside of doing it this way is that there is increased thermal mass and the system response is slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy experimenting!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14164" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T22:18:07.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18772" CreationDate="2016-12-29T12:30:31.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.omegayeast.com/portfolio/14158-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hothead Yeast&lt;/a&gt; from Omega it has a broad temperature range 62-98° F (16-37° C) and is reported to give a &lt;a href=&quot;http://scottjanish.com/omega-hothead-ale-oyl-057-yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slightly fruity flavour profile&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T12:30:31.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18782" CreationDate="2016-12-29T12:51:56.257" Score="3" ViewCount="1272" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the commercial versions of iodophor recommend a very small amount of the product to a large amount of water. So, i want to know if they do this because is dangerous to ingest / handle large amounts of iodophor or if they do this because efficiency (like if you use more you wont sanitize more so would be a waste). What are the overall risks involved using the product? Tks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T18:41:46.333" Title="Risks of Iodophor" Tags="|sanitation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12747" CreationDate="2016-12-29T15:23:00.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a raspberry Pi with a couple of temperature probes and statsd+graphite you could recreate the temperature vs time graphs. Using a BrewPi some of this work is done for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more difficult bit to replicate would be the real time monitoring of the Specific Gravity that the BeerBug (formely BrewBug) offers. I have been having a think about this a looking through component catalogues and can't see anything immediately that would fit the bill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now really want to take one apart and see what components they are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T15:23:00.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18780" CreationDate="2016-12-29T17:57:20.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Iodophor's active ingredient is iodine, which is toxic to humans in sufficient doses. The recommended dilutions of iodophor are sufficient to sanitize surfaces and assume that all but a trace of the iodophor will be removed and not ingested. A larger concentration of iodine would not be more effective and so would be wasteful, and also could begin to be dangerous if enough iodine is left behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When used as directed, iodophor is very safe. It is used extensively in the commercial dairy industry. While iodine is toxic in large doses, it is also an essential nutrient in very small doses. For this reason, iodophor is a &quot;no-rinse&quot; sanitizer -- if a ml or two of diluted iodophor are left in a carboy after it is drained, its further dilution in the beer filling the container will not have any ill effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T17:57:20.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18787" CreationDate="2016-12-29T18:30:07.340" Score="2" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on brewing my first batch of beer soon, but I will have to do the cooking part at my parents house, which is an hour drive away, and then ferment the beer at my apartment. At what stage in the process should I transport the wort? Before or after pitching yeast? And how long after I cool down the wort can I still pitch the yeast? I've read that the wort should be aerated before pitching yeast anyways, which is going to happen in some effect from splashing when transporting. That's why I feel that it would be best to transport it before adding yeast, any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm quite flexible about the brewing and transporting times, eg. I can brew it and then transport it right after, but would prefer to brew in the morning and transport in the evening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14514" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T22:54:47.420" Title="Best time to transport wort in a car" Tags="|fermentation|wort|aeration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-29T19:12:14.327" Score="0" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;Five days in and no krausen!! The airlock is bubbling like crazy but no krausen has formed after five days. For the first two days there was a thick foamy raft floating over my noob concoction but on the third day it subsided and now only smatterings of what I assume to be yeasty debris of some sort remains. Is this normal? Am I making the classic rookie mistake of worrying unnecessarily? Should I pitch more yeast? I did brew from an extract kit and read in a couple places that sometimes the yeast in kits is old. Any guidance is welcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14515" LastEditorUserId="3453" LastEditDate="2016-12-31T04:55:20.793" LastActivityDate="2016-12-31T04:55:20.793" Title="Fermentation krausen" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18767" CreationDate="2016-12-29T21:48:18.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I can see the benefit of doing this from time to time, I would not recommend it in general practice. Every time you handle the beer, you risk introducing oxygen. Every time you open the fermenter, you risk infection. &#xA;You can avoid bottle build up by using bigger bottles or kegging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T21:48:18.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18784" CreationDate="2016-12-29T21:51:25.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you are worrying unnecessarily. If you have an airlock activity you have fermentation. Have you checked a gravity reading yet? It is the best way to measure progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T21:51:25.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18783" CreationDate="2016-12-29T21:56:45.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a &quot;better&quot; here. Certainly the drive will help aerate, but I wouldn't rely on it.  Shake the fermenter well before pitching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, jostling the already pitched wort shouldn't hurt &lt;strong&gt;unless&lt;/strong&gt; you do so after fermentation starts to wane. At that point, aerating might cause introduce oxygen that the yeast won't clean up (and lead to oxidation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="3453" LastEditDate="2017-01-03T21:58:58.937" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T21:58:58.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18784" CreationDate="2016-12-29T22:14:16.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very simple way to tell is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you see bubbles, then your yeast is doing its job. If you do not see any bubbles, then your yeast is dead. You should expect a new bubble every second in the first few days, and going down to a new bubble as the fermentation process continues. If you do not see a bubble within sixty seconds, then your yeast is dead or the fermentation process is probably complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your yeast is dead, I would &lt;em&gt;recommend pitching more yeast&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;shake vigorously to activate the yeast&lt;/em&gt;. Do not worry about pitching too much yeast just yet; it's not about perfection, it's more about having a successful batch! I would worry more about the common case: inactive (dead) yeast, or not enough yeast. I use liquid yeast exclusively now because I have had troubles activating the from a dry form in the past, and have always had success with liquid yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind the purpose of the yeast. The purpose of the yeast in the fermentation process is to take the sugars that existed from the wort, and metabolize the sugar in the sweet wort into alcohol. The yeast will thrive on the sugar, multiply, and chew up all of the sugars that exist inside of your beer. If there is no sugar left, then the yeast will die and end in the bottom of the carboy in the trub. Pitching more yeast will change the recipe a bit, but in the end you just will have more in your trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12119" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T22:14:16.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18784" CreationDate="2016-12-30T19:32:36.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said that &quot;For the first two days there was a thick foamy raft floating over&quot; your brew. That sounds like krausen to me! Do a quick search for &quot;krausen&quot; on Google images and you will see lots of results that look just like your brew did a couple days ago. The yeast are most active for only a couple days. There will be some lag before they start, then they get real busy before finally settling down at the bottom of your fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your questions directly:&#xA;Yes, it sounds very normal! Yes, this is a classic case of unnecessary worrying. No, don't pitch more yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Relax. Don't worry. And have a homebrew.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T19:32:36.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-30T19:53:16.747" Score="0" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made 3 batches of cider (two 3-gallon and one 5-gallon) this year and now it is clear and ready. It was racked twice, so now it has no sediment (and possibly no yeast). I was at first planning to force carbonate it in a keg, but honestly, I prefer bottle carbonated ciders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to use either DV-10 or EC-1118 (both are champagne yeasts and both good for cider). I am planning to add yeast to a bucket, transfer cider to that bucket, slowly stirring. I also plan to use 1/2 lbs of corn sugar as a primer for 1 batch, and carbonation drops for the second batch. I'll be using champagne and Belgian bottles with corks and cages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to prepare yeast? &#xA;Should I make a starter with a juice or should I hydrate the yeast with GoFerm? &#xA;How much should I use, like 5 grams for 3 gallons, 8 grams for 5 gallons? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2017-01-02T23:02:46.193" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T23:02:46.193" Title="Adding yeast for bottle carbonation" Tags="|yeast|cider|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18790" CreationDate="2016-12-31T17:20:46.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need a starter for dry yeast.  Also, the amount of sugar you plan to use is way over the top.  For highly carbed cider, I use 1 oz. of sugar per gallon of cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2016-12-31T17:20:46.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18793" CreationDate="2017-01-01T12:23:09.240" Score="3" ViewCount="844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did a 3 Gallon boil with about 100g of hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It felt like I left a lot of wort in the brew pot when transferring to the fermenter. It was a struggle to keep the flow in the siphon due to all of the hops at the bottom of the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gravity reading was a lot below target in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much of the wort should I be aiming to leave in the brew pot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the best strategies for getting the most wort through the siphon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: this was a partial mash brew (2kg malt, 500g oatmeal), with 2kg of LME added for the start of the boil. It was my first partial mash brew, so I need to figure out getting the right gravity from that, but I could see I was leaving a lot of good wort behind in the brew pot and that didn't feel right. I will transfer all the wort to the fermenter next time, and see how the gravity compares to the target. Thanks for all of the advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14519" LastEditorUserId="14519" LastEditDate="2017-01-20T15:13:11.607" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T15:29:01.160" Title="How much wort should be left in the brew pot?" Tags="|wort|brewing|boil-kettle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18792" CreationDate="2017-01-01T17:13:55.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although we need more information to be more specific, the general answer to &quot;how much wort should be left behind&quot; is &quot;as little as possible&quot;.  One thing you can do is pour the wort through a sanitized strainer and press the hops with a sanitized spoon to extract the wort in them.  Also, once the wort is cooled down, you can simply pour it through a strainer into your fermenter.  The strainer will stop the hops, and the rest of the trub that makes it through will not only not harm your beer, indications are that it can be beneficial.  The reason why your gravity was low will have to wait til we know more about what and how you brewed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-01-01T17:13:55.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-02T04:27:09.930" Score="2" ViewCount="1194" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has a mulberry cider been made? I have a mulberry tree that has so much fruit every year and was wondering how I would go about trying that? I've only just bottled my very first batch of beer....so very new to this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14490" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-03T22:26:55.760" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T22:26:55.760" Title="Making Mulberry Cider" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-02T21:48:23.617" Score="2" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting way too fruity of a flavor in my IPAs from this yeast.  I am assuming this is because I am pitching at too high of a temp, but I'm not really sure.   Any suggestions for how to solve this, whether it be a correct pitching temp or something else. Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14525" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2019-08-19T23:29:05.877" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T23:29:05.877" Title="Fruit flavors from White Labs California Ale yeast I" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-03T00:28:34.370" Score="1" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to get a huge IPA hop profile in some of my beers and they are not quite there yet.  Do you guys tend to lean towards massive late addition hops or do you try to add the hop aroma/flavor from dry hops?  Personally, I do a bit of both, but I don't have it dialed in yet.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14525" LastActivityDate="2017-02-25T13:56:21.963" Title="Hopping Profile" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18792" CreationDate="2017-01-03T14:33:46.430" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The strategy for getting the &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; wort into the fermenter is to dump it all in.&#xA;Everything, hops and everything.  I don't scrape the stickies off the wall of the pot, but I tip the whole thing into the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally aim for none wort to be left in the pot.  It will make good beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not comfortable with that, the strainer idea is fantastic too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13945" LastEditorUserId="13945" LastEditDate="2017-01-04T15:01:21.257" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T15:01:21.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18783" CreationDate="2017-01-03T17:42:56.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've conducted the mash and boil in one place and transported prior to fermentation in the past, with no issue. Yes, the drive will aerate some...but you will certainly need to aerate more prior to pitching your yeast, if you want to increase the chances of a healthy fermentation and less off-flavors. I would strongly suggest the small investment in a sintered stone and oxygen tank connector to properly aerate your beer, prior to pitch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.org/Oxynator-oxygen-regulator-and-diffusion-kit_p_1057.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewing.org/Oxynator-oxygen-regulator-and-diffusion-kit_p_1057.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3011" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2017-01-03T22:24:02.317" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T22:24:02.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18794" CreationDate="2017-01-03T17:46:07.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might take a huge amount of fruit to make a substantial batch of say 5 gallons.  I would be more tempted to create a mulberry flavored cider with apple cider as my base.  You can find cider that hasn't been treated with any preservatives fairly easily.  They have yeasts designed for cider or I've used champagne yeast with good results. As popular as cider has become there should be a multitude of recipes out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14527" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T17:46:07.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18813" CreationDate="2017-01-03T19:16:35.757" Score="1" ViewCount="2782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently ran out of Carbonation Drops that I have exclusively used in the past.  I decided to use sugar and put a heaping teaspoon of sugar in every bottle.&#xA;Two unexpected things happened, the beer did not carbonate totally and the beer tasted really sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be done to avoid this in the future.  I have a keg system now, so I do not expect to ever use sugar to carbonate again, unless I can control the taste or use the drops.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be done to make sure the sugar does not affect the taste and will carbonate the brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12417" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T17:31:06.367" Title="Does carbonating with sugar make the beer sweeter?" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18801" CreationDate="2017-01-03T19:33:14.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer is that adding sugar for carbonation doesnt make the beer sweeter. I use sugar most of the time for carbonation, and sometimes carbonate inside the keg with CO2 and the result is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is not appreciable,in my case i carbonate with 7grs per litre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13051" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T19:33:14.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18699" CreationDate="2017-01-03T22:29:30.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an STC-100 for $10, and wired it up to a standard home outlet.  The top plug is for cooling, and the bottom is for heating.  My freezer cord plugs into the cooling plug.  I then plug a Fermiwrap heating pad into the heating plug, and tape the pad to the inside of my freezer.  Finaly, I tape the temperature probe halfway up the side of the freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been a solid setup, and required no modifications to my freezer whatsoever.  The temperature probe wire and heating pad cord both fit comfortably under the door gasket without any appreciable loss of efficiency.  I didn't have to drill any holes into my freezer or cut the plugs off of any factory cords.  I could resell that freezer today just by re-installing the optional shelves and baskets.  (But that's not going to happen, not while I have so much beer fermenting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to look at the Inkbird Itc-308, because spending $35 saves yourself the trouble of wiring your temp controller to a standard outlet.  If you don't already have the tools and wires hanging around, it could actually save you money to buy the more expensive unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6713" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T22:29:30.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18801" CreationDate="2017-01-03T22:33:50.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Priming for carbonation should not make your beer any sweeter. It never has in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is that the sugar you add for priming is added in such a quantity that it will be 100% converted by the residual yeast into CO2 leaving no sugar to sweeten the beer. (It will for a few days make the beer a little sweeter until it has been fermented.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T22:33:50.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18783" CreationDate="2017-01-03T22:54:47.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest you transfer from kettle to a sanitized food grade 5 gallon cube and seal it for transport. When you are ready, pour wort into your fermenter, thereby creating aeration, pitch yeast, and seal. Clean and dry your cube immediately in readiness for your next effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This procedure should eliminate infection and oxidisation issues, and would enable you to use the no-chill method, thereby simplifying the process even more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T22:54:47.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18158" CreationDate="2017-01-04T01:14:49.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Storing at room Temp will not harm your beer as long as the fermentation has fininshed, use a clearing agent 2 days before kegging, gas to purge the oxygen out, then the longer it is stored at room temp the better it gets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14528" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T01:14:49.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18816" CreationDate="2017-01-04T01:25:40.800" Score="0" ViewCount="574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed a witbier.  After tasting it out of the primary it doesn't quite have the taste I'm looking for.  I'd like to add some orange and/or coriander to the secondary, but I'm not sure how long and how much of each would be within reason.  I was thinking of adding about .5 oz of each, and leaving it in a hop bag for a few days.  Does this sound acceptable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T17:02:18.843" Title="Adding Orange and/or Corriander to Secondary" Tags="|fruit|secondary|wheat-beer|spices|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-04T02:33:25.770" Score="0" ViewCount="1034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've now bottled all of my brew and I saw there was a very thin layer of sediment at the bottom of the bucket. I've read some reports about an inch thick sediment at the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket. Has something gone wrong with mine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14490" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-01-08T14:53:13.807" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T14:53:13.807" Title="Yeast sediment after bottling" Tags="|sediment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-04T11:48:29.717" Score="3" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can additional sugar help yeast consume the Oxygen present in the bottle? &#xA;What about isobar systems with counter-pressure? &#xA;What happens to the oxygen in the bottles?&#xA;Does it have an impact on beer conservation (stability)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14401" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T20:00:44.690" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T20:00:44.690" Title="Does bottle refermentation help have a better beer conservation?" Tags="|aging|stability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18801" CreationDate="2017-01-04T15:34:08.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your beer is sweeter because the yeast did not ferment all the sugar.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the sugar is fermented, the sweetness should dissappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enough yeast left (specially if your filter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did not allow to ferment enough time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sugar not mixed in the bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature is not adequate for fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enough air in the bottle (yeast needs a bit of air, try not to overfill the bottles, leave about an inch of air)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much sugar added&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too high level of alcool (some yeast have a lower tolerance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you check this list you will certainly find the reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T15:34:08.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18811" CreationDate="2017-01-04T16:39:21.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Can additional sugar help yeast consume the Oxygen present in the bottle?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, although in actuality yeast needs oxygen to grow/divide. So the standard aerobic action of yeast is to use oxygen and other nutrients to grow. When the oxygen is used up the growth phase is minimised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What about isobar systems with counter-pressure?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;yes, what about them? If used correctly they can be used to fill containers under a suitably inert atmosphere like nitrogen or carbon dioxide. They prevent the beverage coming into excessive contact with oxygen (or whatever...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What happen to the oxygen in the bottles? Does it have an impact on beer conservation?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem to depend on the nature of the beer.&#xA;I have had no problem home bottling thousands of bottles of beer over the last decade using a siphon tube in air after pouring the beer onto the priming solution in a 50L bucket (with all the aeration that entails). It seems the yeast still in solution uses the oxygen to multiply and produce an anaerobic environment in the bottle. Once that is achieved, the carbonation proceeds to completion and the (unopened) bottle can safely stand for some years.&#xA;On the other hand, &quot;commercial brewers&quot; seem to have a real phobia about oxygen in the brew, post fermentation. I am not sure why that is but it may be down to filtration or pasteurisation that can remove the yeast or render the yeast inactive. Whatever, commercial breweries seem to taker great pains over excluding oxygen. Perhaps it is down to the fact that Oxygen reacts differently with live things and dead things. Perhaps live beer is more stable and conditions in bottles/barrels more predictably. Perhaps filtered or pasteurised beer is more susceptible to other factors because it has no stable biome to hold the equilibrium. In such a situation the oxygen might react in ways that are less useful and completely different to the way it might react in an active yeast solution. All I can say is that oxygen in bottles is not instant death for the beer contained within. I have many bottles of beer made and bottled in &quot;less than oxygen free conditions&quot; which are over a year old and still taste great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I will attract some &quot;adverse comments&quot; for espousing this view. Of course there is much literature that seems to imply that oxygen (or any similar oxidising agent) is so bad for beer that one wonders how they ever made it back in those slightly less than totally aseptic Saxon Ale houses. Was beer only drinkable after bottles of CO2 went on sale? Well that is something for the reader to consider but I also add this point. If oxygen was so bad for beer why do some breweries recommend using N2O as a gassing agent for their beer (eg some Irish Cream ales, etc). N2O is a known oxygenating agent and presumably (if all the phobias were well founded) would kill the beer dead from 20 yards. But no - the flavour (apparently) improves and makes the brew taste sweeter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T16:39:21.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18809" CreationDate="2017-01-04T16:49:11.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the brew went well then there is probably a lot of yeast left in solution and it will precipitate in the bottle. If the brew was not so complete then keep a watch on your bottles for excessive pressure! If all else fails then remember that &quot;bottle conditioning&quot; over many months can cure a multitude of sins.... as well as rendering an undrinkable brew &quot;fit for drunken friends&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I note from the comment above that this was an extract brew, the brew was reasonably clear and the FG was 1004. From that I would deduce this was a light beer/ale/lager and fermentation had proceeded to completion. I am presuming some priming sugar/drops was added before sealing the bottles. On the face of it, this beer should be good to go after a few weeks of conditioning in the bottle. My advice would be to leave it a bit longer rather than a bit shorter to condition fully. Use the waiting time to brew your next batch! Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-01-06T12:18:52.917" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T12:18:52.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18808" CreationDate="2017-01-04T17:02:18.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I added 7g of bitter Orange peel and 7g of fresh cracked (not ground) coriander seed directly into a 25 Litre bucket after 4 days of fermenting a wheat beer. I left them in for 10 days. It seemed like everything precipitated with the yeast, although after pouring the beer off and mixing with priming sugar solution, I took the precaution of putting some nylon gauze over the end of the siphon tube to stop any large debris getting into the beer bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.5 oz is about 14 g so that may be a little high for 24ltr/5gals(?) with very fresh ingredients but is probably OK for shelf stored, &quot;shop bought&quot; stuff. My coriander seed was fresh from my garden and anything over 10g was too fully flavoured - although it reduced on long conditioning. IMHO the orange peel is not so critical and 14 g would not be &quot;bad&quot; but it would depend on the peel. It should be from a &quot;sour&quot; or bitter orange, &quot;normal&quot; sweet orange peel does not add half as much flavour (but can be used) so maybe 14g of that might be good to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T17:02:18.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18809" CreationDate="2017-01-04T19:07:03.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you hit your FG then I would not worry too much. I have had some brews with thick sludgy yeast cakes and others with shallow compact yeast cakes from the same yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the comments above ask, some more details would be helpful, a picture or two can also be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T19:07:03.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18795" CreationDate="2017-01-04T19:43:40.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your fermentation temperature doesn't appear to be high enough to have that profile with such a clean yeast.  You may look to a little longer boil time to drive away some of the potential off flavor producers.  These can sometimes lurk on your palate as fruity.  Some yeast food and oxygen in your next batch might increase fermentation and reduce any lag time you may be experiencing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14527" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T19:43:40.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18826" CreationDate="2017-01-05T02:46:27.733" Score="2" ViewCount="812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading this article &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mainbrew.com/everything_you_need_to_know_about_kegging_homebrew-ExtraPages.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;about kegging&lt;/a&gt; and it mentions the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can now disconnect your airline, leaving the 30 psi in the keg,&#xA;and leave your keg at room temperature for a week or two (or more).&#xA;This is usually a good idea if your beer was racked in directly from&#xA;the primary fermenter, or if you are dry-hopping, or if you are&#xA;lagering the beer (in the keg) in a cold environment. The beer will be&#xA;safe and sound for months and months left in there. (Assuming you've&#xA;left 30 psi in the headspace, you have no leaks and your temperatures&#xA;are not extraordinarily high.) Your beer will NOT carbonate under&#xA;these conditions, and eventually you will have to do one of the steps&#xA;below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why, if I leave 30 psi in the keg (without the line attached) why will the beer not carbonate under these conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T18:45:06.037" Title="Store beer uncarbonated in a keg" Tags="|carbonation|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-05T05:26:34.557" Score="3" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made elderberry syrup, and it too fermented. It has been refrigerated for five months, but may have spent the first few days at room temp. It is delicious, still sweet, no off flavors, super carbonated and not noticeably alcoholic.There was a bit of a mother or something on the surface. Are there any health concerns for drinking it? I'm sick now so it's hard to tell, but I drank about a half cup (no vomiting or anything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how I made it: Fresh elderberries, ginger and cinnamon simmered in water for 30 minutes, strained, and added to equal part honey. I don't know if it was raw honey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14534" LastEditorDisplayName="user8292" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T17:41:18.523" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T17:41:18.523" Title="Is my wild ferment safe?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18822" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-05T13:41:29.423" Score="3" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last 2-3 batches I have made have both come out with a fruity banana flavor. They would have made wonderful heifewizen had I intended that way. All were intended to be American ale or pale ales. &#xA;Both were relatively clear and I clean like crazy so I don't suspect contamination. Could it be a lack of oxygen for the yeast?&#xA;Any suggestions would be great. I'm relatively new to this and trying to learn as much as I can. Also I would really like a beer to turn out like I intend it to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14531" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T18:34:01.073" Title="Beer isn't tasting right" Tags="|yeast|banana|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18822" CreationDate="2017-01-05T16:33:35.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fruity banana taste/flavour is common in wheat beers. To be more spesific Weihenstephaner has it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several yeasts (wb-06 etc.) produce banana flavour taste in particular warmth condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My last wheat beer batch was fermented between 20-21 celcius and it has a little bit of it. It is more spicy and sour. Between 23-25 celcius though it should produce more banana like flavour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it smells/tastes right enough to drink i wouldnt say its contaminated. Just be carefull about the room temperature and keep it ideal for your yeast cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14310" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T16:33:35.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18825" CreationDate="2017-01-05T18:18:53.940" Score="0" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like the pressure reading seems to go from ~400 to 0 when I'm not looking, but some of the regulators have a red area, marking when pressure is low. I ask because I had to order a new regulator. My old regulator doesn't really work now (none of the gauges are accurate) and my suspicion is that when the tank runs out, beer is forced back up into the regulator from the connected kegs. I'm wondering if that's because I let the tank run completely out first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T18:41:46.190" Title="At what pressure reading should I refill my CO2 tank?" Tags="|kegging|corny-keg|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18824" CreationDate="2017-01-05T18:41:46.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the tank runs out the residual pressure in the tank and in the keg should be the same and will remain the same if no beer is dispensed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, if some of the beer has been drank the gas dip tube in a keg is too short for liquid to get up there.  I don't think that beer going up the gas line is your problem.  Unless you store the keg on its side or something.  Its just not physically possible, regardless of keg pressure or tank pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T18:41:46.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18819" CreationDate="2017-01-05T18:45:06.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will indeed absorb some CO2.  But a single blast of CO2 from the tank at 30PSI, then disconnected and left at room temperature is not enough CO2 to generate fully carbonated beer. Leaving it hooked up though it will carbonate, but only to a level dictated by the temperature.  Room temperature beer will absorb less CO2 than if the beer was cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T18:45:06.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18801" CreationDate="2017-01-05T18:47:12.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Why was the beer sweet?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It wasn't carbonated- CO2 tastes kind of bitter, which is partly why soda pop has so much sugar in it. The carbonation will make your beer taste less sweet, too. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it didn't carbonate, then the sugar you added is still in there. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &quot;heaping teaspoon&quot; is probably too much. A level tsp is probably fine for most beers; that's about 6oz for 48 12oz bottles. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why didn't it carbonate?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast converts sugars to CO2 and alcohols, with a little help from some O2. So what causes it not to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enough sugars (obviously, not your problem).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enough O2. I'm pretty sure this is rarely a problem. If you are leaving an inch of headspace in the bottles that has room air, that is probably more than enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enough viable yeast. If your beer is big (high OG) and there is a lot of alcohol in the beer, or the beer has been in the fermenter or secondary for as long time (multiple months) it could be that most of the yeast cells are not viable. In that case, you can add a pinch of dry yeast to each bottle. I usually add champagne yeast for beers with an OG of 1.080 or higher. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You didn't wait long enough. If the bottles are stored in a cold area, or one of the above items are true, it could take a lot longer than 2 weeks to carbonate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also worth noting that 'carbonation drops' are just a pre-measured amount of sugar, IIRC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12431" LastEditorUserId="16704" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T17:31:06.367" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T17:31:06.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18833" CreationDate="2017-01-05T19:41:28.937" Score="2" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed a Brewferm Christmas beer. I have been brewing on and off for 20+ years but I don't try complicated things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first mistake was not reading that this particular beer requires no extra sugar to ferment. Si after I added the extra sugar, I also added extra water to match. I hoped that I would be simply stretching the flavour out over more beer but that everything else would be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bottled the beer once fermentation completed and I think everything was ok at that stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then immediately put the bottles in the cave (I am Australian living in France so have never had a cold place to put beer before) and I think the cave was maybe 0-10 degrees C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is mostly flat. Did I kill the yeast or is it asleep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers to all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14536" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T12:37:07.693" Title="I put my bottles to ferment for carbonation in a cold place - is the yeast dead?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|bottle|cold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18831" CreationDate="2017-01-06T01:03:36.680" Score="1" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing my 2nd batch (after a break of 20 years :) ). Its a LME / DME porter attempt. It all went according to plan and the OG = 1045. It started fermenting more or less on time, but was sluggish from the start. From what I can see, it only built up a krausen of max 1cm. It was blubbing nicely for a few days but has slowed down now at 72 hours. Just took a sample (have a tap on the fermentation vat, so no disadvantage to doing so) and it's still at 1030. I haven't found any info or rules of thumb indicating where it should be. The yeast was a M42 New World Strong Ale Yeast. Should I repitch, or will I hit 1010 - 1015 with a few weeks of fermentation + bottle conditioning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14539" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T10:44:31.413" Title="Repitch? 1032 down from 1045 after 72 hours" Tags="|fermentation|porter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11186" CreationDate="2017-01-06T10:28:34.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has a couple answers already, the article linked to by Jedi Jay is a good one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to go into depth on FOAM quality, Dr Charile Bamforth wrote this mighty tome on the subject: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008QDA2MY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FOAM: Practical Guides for Beer Quality&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T10:28:34.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18829" CreationDate="2017-01-06T10:44:31.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, welcome back to the world of home brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dried yeast during &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northernbrewer.com/connect/2010/06/the-importance-of-being-hydrated/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;re-hydration are sensitive&lt;/a&gt;, but a little gentle shaking will not ruin the viability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would leave it for about 7 days from pitching if you are no where near FG by then, then make a small &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beerdude.com/yeast_starter.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;starter&lt;/a&gt; and pitch that. Once there is alcohol in the mix you really want to make a starter to ensure your dried yeast are most importantly re-hydrated when re-pitching. As if they are not the alcohol can diffuse quickly through the dehydrated cell walls and damage the cells. This is less critical with liquid yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things that may be affecting the fermentation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is the wort sufficiently aerated?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;was the yeast nice, fresh and well stored?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess would be either the yeast had been &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2014/02/08/storing-your-beer-brewing-hops-grains-and-yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;poorly stored&lt;/a&gt; (got too hot) before you purchased it or the wort was &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/malt/item/1894-aerating-wort-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;not sufficiently aerated&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T10:44:31.413" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18821" CreationDate="2017-01-06T10:52:20.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without doing some analysis I can not say 100% it is safe to drink, but I generally go with my senses. If it looks OK, smells OK and a little of it tastes OK then generally it is OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mother on top may be acetobacter, but if it doesn't taste too sour, then they have probably not had time/oxygen/temperature to get going and turn everything to vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it has got moldy though I would discard it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that may not be the most helpful answer on the face of it, but our taste buds and nasal receptors are pretty good at picking our even very small levels of toxic/bitter chemicals. And, the best you can get without plating some of it up or viewing a drop under a microscope. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T10:52:20.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18828" CreationDate="2017-01-06T12:37:07.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO the yeast is not dead but might be dormant. As has been asked in the comments above - there is no mention of priming sugar added to the brew before (or while) bottling. If the fermentation went to completion in the barrel then some priming sugar/malt will be needed to carbonate the beer in the bottle. If there was no sugar then there would be no secondary fermentation to speak of and the beer would seem &quot;flat&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rush to put the bottled beer in a cold cave (oh, that we all had such a thing...) straight after bottling may have been misguided. The bottles should optimally be held at (for example) room temperature (eg 20degrees) for some days - a week is not too long. Then the yeast can go to work on removing oxygen in solution and carbonating the beer. After that the beer can then be stored for conditioning in the bottles for (IMHO at least) one month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if the beer was correctly primed then simply removing the bottles from the cold cave, giving them a good shake and storing at room temperature for some time ( a week or two) should help correct the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer was not primed then you either have to re-open the bottles, add a heaped teaspoonful of sugar to each bottle and reseal it. Leave for the appropriate time again. Or live with flat beer and remember to improve the process with the next batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dilution of the original brew is somewhat unfortunate but if only a small percentage (eg 5% or 1Litre/quart) of extra water was added then it should not be too bad (it is rarely &quot;good&quot;). If any greater amount of water was used to dilute then it may be better to use the made beer as a base for the next brew - Empty the bottles into the FV and add appropriate amounts of malt/haps/etc. there is no reason why that can't be done. And you wouldn't be the first to do it....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T12:37:07.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18792" CreationDate="2017-01-07T06:27:39.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another easy solution is to use a muslin bag during your boil. Homebrew shops sells them in bulk for under a dollar each. They are like pantyhose and stretch a lot. Stick it in your kettle and clip/tie an end of the bag to either handle. You'll have the bag stretched across the middle of the kettle with the top of the bag open. Whenever you make hop additions, dump them into the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your boil is done, just untie the bag and lift it out - the majority of the hop material will come out with it. Hold the bag and let the wort drain from it for a few seconds. Some people say don't squeeze the bag or you'll release bitter compounds. I say don't squeeze the bag because it's really hot and you'll burn yourself and it's not worth it for a half a cup of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used these bags when they're included with extract kits and they work very well. They're not reusable but are compostable. There's a small amount of fine hop debris left at the bottom of the kettle, but it's insignificant and can go into the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also suggest not siphoning the wort - pour it into your fermenter to get as much yield as possible. Pouring it back and forth between the fermenter and kettle a few times helps oxygenate the wort if you don't have another means of doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14544" LastActivityDate="2017-01-07T06:27:39.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18775" CreationDate="2017-01-07T06:36:08.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you intend to get into kegging, then absolutely go for a CO2 setup. CO2 transfers are easy and kinda fun. If you're only doing this for moving the beer around, a CO2 cylinder and regulator are way too expensive and bulky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Autosiphons work incredibly well. Coupled with a plastic clip to hold it in place in the bucket, plus a bottling wand on the siphon tip (valve in the tip that allows beer to flow when you push it against the bottom of a bottle), and you've got a super easy and cheap bottling setup. You'll need only one hand to hold the bottling wand, and have a hand free to hold and move bottles around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also just attach some tubing to your spigot and put a bottling wand at the end of that. I think I would still go for the autosiphon though. Since you're bottling from primary, you have more control in avoiding the trub and yeast in your bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14544" LastActivityDate="2017-01-07T06:36:08.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-09T12:36:25.503" Score="4" ViewCount="9175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed some cider from cooking apple juice. The apples were unusually sweet for cookers so there was enough sugar and I added teabags to add tannin. This gave me cider at ~6.3% which tastes OK &lt;em&gt;except&lt;/em&gt; it is very tart, like someone poured lemon juice into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gather this may reduce slightly as the cider matures but I doubt it will enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is commonly added to this type of drink to make it less acidic? Wine-makers tend to deal with acidity so are there tricks I can borrow from those guys? Maybe there are typical household ingredients even?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T15:37:14.587" Title="Reduce acidity of hard cider" Tags="|cider|wine|ph|acidity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18839" CreationDate="2017-01-09T13:43:46.390" Score="2" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find out if it's possible to have a PID controlled &lt;em&gt;electric kettle&lt;/em&gt; style element in the base of the mash tun ( under a false bottom ); and just use the circulating pump for the purpose of getting a uniform temperature — instead of pumping the wort through a RIMS tube for heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't been able to find a system like this and I'm wondering why no one has done it; so I'm assuming I'm missing something - or maybe I haven't looked hard enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about advanced brewing techniques so apologies if this is a dumb question but it seems to me a much simpler system with a less to go wrong. &lt;strong&gt;Is it a possible to get a system like this working; and has it been done?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T14:44:21.523" Title="Can a RIMS element be located in the mash tun instead of in a tube?" Tags="|mash|electric|rims|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18838" CreationDate="2017-01-09T14:44:21.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think a low wattage element would work. Low wattage to insure against scorching wort as it travels buy the element under the false bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially what you are describing is the same thing as a direct fired kettle mash tun.  That's how I mash. I am using a propane burner under the mash tun equipped with a false bottom and a pump.  The trick is to not heat to quickly or you end up degrading enzymes to fast.  But  low wattage element with a tightly controlled PID would probably work very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might need a significantly larger space under the false bottom in order to house the element but with constant recirculation that should be negligible of an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T14:44:21.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18837" CreationDate="2017-01-09T14:52:47.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two methods to lower acidity (raise pH) would be to use carbonate salt (potassium or calcium). In a pinch I guess you could try sodium carbonate (baking soda), but I'd recommend trying it on a smaller batch first to be sure it tasted OK.  I guess it depends on how much acid you need to off-set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second method would be to employ a malolactic fermentation step on the finished cider. Malolactic fermentation attempts to transform malic acid into lactic acid.  Again it depends on how much acid and the type that's present for how well it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you have a pH meter to help gauge your approach.  Otherwise, it might be better to plan on using this cider as a blending tool with cider that need an acidic punch up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wine.wsu.edu/research-extension/2010/10/managing-high-acidity/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Check out this link for more detailed info.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T14:52:47.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18837" CreationDate="2017-01-09T15:37:14.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding baking soda - sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3)is a quick and cheap method to reduce acidity in foodstuffs- but beware of the sudden release of gas (CO2) and foaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking any alkaline substance can be added to reduce acidity in solution. The trick is keep the taste at least &quot;pleasant&quot;, if not &quot;authentic&quot;, without rendering the drink dangerous. Sodium bicarbonate (sodium hydrogen carbonate) usually makes reasonable tasting organic acid salts that don't greatly detract from the flavour. Some of these organic acid salts are actually used as food flavourings in their own right. Which in itself can present the same problem in a different form. The adjusted brew itself might not be excessively acidic but one can still taste vinegar, lemon juice or sour apples. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some prefer adding magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate or potassium carbonate as they say these ions can produce a preferable taste but IMHO they sometimes can also produce a &quot;haziness&quot; in the brew. Calcium carbonate (chalk) is often locally obtainable and magnesium carbonate is a known food additive (E504). Both are of &quot;reduced solubility&quot; in water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding out how much to add is an important step and the only real way is to take a small but measured quantity of the cider and add a SMALL measured amount of (say) bicarbionate to it and stir. The cider should foam if it truly is acidic. Leave it to stand for a minute and then taste it. If still too tart/acidic then add another small but measured(weighed?) amount and repeat. If too much was added initially then start again with fresh cider and much less bicarbionate. As a guide try starting with 150ml (a cup full) of cider and something like &quot;half a pea's worth&quot; of bicarbonate as a tiny amount on the tip of a teaspoon. If you can find an accurate measure or have some accurate scales then use that.  When a suitable amount to add has been determined - &quot;do the math&quot; to scale up the amount needed for the entire batch. However start off by adding half of the calculated bicarbonate to the cider, stirring and waiting. Test the taste, if still very tart/acidic then add half of what remains - and so on. IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO LEAVE THE CIDER A SOMEWHAT MORE TART TASTING THAN BLAND TASTING, as acidity usually decreases with standing and bottle conditioning. IMHO cider needs a long time (eg one year) to condition well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend this method generally - only in cases where the brew is so acidic that it is unpleasant to drink. Even then it is preferable to let the cider condition correctly to reduce the acidity. A lot of biological processes go on on the bottle/barrel during conditioning - especially with the tart tasting malic acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But sometimes this method produces a useful drink when all other methods have failed - and it has saved several demi-johns of West Country farm cider from being poured away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T15:37:14.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18845" CreationDate="2017-01-10T03:31:52.043" Score="1" ViewCount="3184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my yeast slurry out of the fridge to warm it up to room temp before brewing.  I had some technical issues however so I'm brewing tomorrow instead. At that point the yeast will be out of the fridge ( at room temp - aprox 20C ) for about 24-28 hours. It's in a mason jar and the lid is slightly loosened. Will it be OK to use or should I dump it and use a different jar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T16:51:00.310" Title="How long max should I leave yeast slurry out of the fridge to warm up?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18842" CreationDate="2017-01-10T11:11:10.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The main thing to check for is actual yeast activity&lt;/strong&gt;. The time it was left in or out of the fridge is a secondary issue. An active yeast culture with sufficient nutrients is actually quite stable. If re-supplied with nutrients it can be safely kept going (and be used for brewing) for years in &quot;normal kitchen conditions&quot;(ie not a fridge). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast taken out of a fridge needs some time to return from being dormant (or being of very low metabolic activity) and 24 hours at &quot;room temperature&quot;(20C) should be enough. If the yeast culture is active and has nutrients/sugars then it will ferment. Fermentation can be judged by the amount of bubbling and foam on the surface of the yeast &quot;solution&quot;. If the yeast is actively fermenting then it can be pitched into a brew. If the yeast is not active then wait until it is or make a new culture using new yeast - AND MAKE SURE THAT IS ACTIVE TOO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yeast (liquid or powder) is added to a weak sugar solution and kept at room temperature for a day it should start actively fermenting. A good active yeast will start fermenting withing minutes and bubbles and foam might be seen on the surface of the solution within 30 minutes. If a correctly made up yeast starter culture does not show signs of life within a day (and I would say within 4 hours) at 20C then IMHO it should be discarded with any yeast source it was made up from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T11:11:10.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18842" CreationDate="2017-01-10T13:30:46.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be fine to use.  I'd decant the spent liquid from the jar and add some fresh wort and let that sit until I had signs of yeast activity in the jar.  If the new wort has to sit in the fermentor until the yeast have awoken so be it.  If your sanitation is good that should be a problem for the wort to sit for several hours. I regularly pitch the next day some of my beers. Again your sanitation has to be spot on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the jar doesn't start, that's when I'd look at using a different jar.  But I'd try restarting that one too with some starter wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T13:30:46.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18842" CreationDate="2017-01-10T16:51:00.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend letting it warm up at all.  For on thing, it isn't necessary.  For another, if you let it warm up the yeast starts consuming its &quot;built in&quot; nutrients before it's in the beer.  I've pitched hundreds of batches with slurry straight out of the fridge and never had a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T16:51:00.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11186" CreationDate="2017-01-13T12:23:00.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple trick I use is to add 1-3% wheat to the grain bill. The proteins in the wheat produce a nice, stable head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14567" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T12:23:00.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2017-01-13T14:33:45.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In cold temp/climate. Use a temp controller. Basic unit is about $20 + parts to make an electrical box and cord for it. Put the sanitized probe into your fermenter. Wrap the fermenter with a blanket. Place it on top of a heating pad that is plugged into the temp controller. Set the desired temp and stash in a safe home in the unheated garage or shed. Great lager in 6 weeks or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In warmer temp/climate. Same as above except build a small box out of styrofoam insulation. Connect the controller to a small window AC unit that blows into the box. You'' need more space and a way for the AC condensate to drain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14568" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T14:33:45.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18849" CreationDate="2017-01-16T12:16:24.500" Score="0" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this is relevant for the SO homebrewing forum, but anyway..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend and I had a discussing over a beer the other night at a bar in Oslo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2 dl(0.2L) with an incredible imperial stout(abv: 13.49%) and he &#xA;bought a 3dl(0.33L) double IPA(abv: 8.5%).&#xA;While we was drinking the beers the discussing was about what of these two beers wound get one of us more intoxicated then the other (we have pretty much the same body shape and weight, and drinking-speed).&#xA;Is there some theoretical formula that wound calculate/guesstimate how must alcohol is going into our bodies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6229" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T14:15:23.157" Title="Beer, alcohol - body ratio" Tags="|alcohol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18848" CreationDate="2017-01-16T14:15:23.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well you can quite simply calculate the amount of ethanol consumed easily:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Stout  0.2L*13.49%=26.9mL&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Double IPA 0.33L*8.5%=28.05mL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would appear that the 0.33L DIPA delivered more ethanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T14:15:23.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18853" CreationDate="2017-01-17T03:18:18.070" Score="2" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been all grain brewing for a couple years (23 batches), and can't figure out why my last two brews simply would not get through the hot break stage of the boil. Every time I tried to get through it would simply foam until about ready to boil over and I'd have to turn the flame down. I was forced to maintain a lower boil for the entire boil process. Nothing has changed in my process that I'm aware of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13348" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T20:44:52.843" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T16:49:09.513" Title="Cannot avoid boil-over without turning down heat" Tags="|techniques|all-grain|boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13189" CreationDate="2017-01-17T06:41:06.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand the operation of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_regulator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pressure regulator&lt;/a&gt; it works basically the opposite way of a spunding valve. While the spunding valve opens when the preset pressure is exceeded the pressure regulator closes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is if the pressure in your keg is lower than the preset pressure the regulator will open, letting the CO2 from the cylinder into your keg. When the keg reaches the preset pressure it will close and no more CO2 will flow into your keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mean that if there's nothing preventing the pressure to escape and your keg is below the preset pressure the regulator would evacuate CO2 from your keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid this you should make sure that CO2 can't be evacuated from the keg by either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connect the regulator to the cylinder (but keep the cylinder closed)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Preset the regulator to a pressure lower than that of the keg&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have a double stage regulator (the first stage work as a spunding valve of the cylinder)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have a regulator that has a built in counter flow valve&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that after closing the cylinder there will still be CO2 in the high pressure part of the regulator. If your keg is full this gas can contribute significantly to the pressure of the keg (if the preset pressure is higher than that in the keg). In that case you would need to evacuate that part, either by using the relief valve or disconnecting the regulator from the cylinder and connect it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* This could work to or against your advantage. If the counter flow valve is placed between the keg and the gauge there would be no flow of CO2 from the keg to the gauge and the gauge would be able not measure the gauge of the keg. However I find this construct unlikely.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14579" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T06:41:06.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18850" CreationDate="2017-01-17T11:25:20.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what your expectations are or where you got them from, but I guarantee that if you are able to maintain a boil for 60 minutes you are getting plenty of hot break. It might not look like what you are expecting it to look like. (Unless you are boiling at altitude or something and can't get to 212F/100C.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you ever turned the boil back up after 30-40minute to see what the foaming was like?  I am sure it would have subsided.  That being said it will always foam to some extent and boiling harder just makes it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't comfort you, I'd suggest getting your water tested and looking towards your pH and your calcium levels.  I have found that with more calcium in the wort the break in the early part of the boil is big and flakey chunks of protein.  When I don't adjust for calcium the break is much finer; almost looks like pellet hop debris.  (and these observations are made prior to adding hops)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if you see plenty of flakey trub material in the fermentor post chill then that is also a sign that there was good hot break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T11:25:20.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18850" CreationDate="2017-01-17T17:44:59.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to prevent a boil-over is either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;larger volume kettle/ lower volume batch size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lower temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;active negotiation (spray bottle, fermcap (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1826/how-do-you-prevent-boil-overs&quot;&gt;related here&lt;/a&gt;))&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2012/09/do-you-skim-off-foam-as-your-wort-comes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;scoop the foam&lt;/a&gt; as it comes to a rigorous boil before the hot break. This serves two purposes. It will (arguably) give you clearer beer and will keep you at the kettle when the risk of boil over is highest. I switched to a 75 (instead of 60) minute boil, initially to give me wiggle room with volumes, but I kept it as adding hops after the hot break helps prevent hops from initiating a boil over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T16:49:09.513" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18854" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-01-17T20:04:34.587" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T20:04:34.587" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T20:04:34.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18855" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-01-17T20:04:34.587" Score="0" Body="The ability of a stored beverage to maintaining desired characteristics over time for example flavour and appearance." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T20:04:34.587" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T20:04:34.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18856" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-01-17T20:08:27.117" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T20:08:27.117" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T20:08:27.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18857" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-01-17T20:08:27.117" Score="0" Body="Acidity the level of acid in substances such as water, beer, or wine. Can be used to discuss the measured acidity via pH level or perceived acidity on the palate. " OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T20:08:27.117" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T20:08:27.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18858" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-01-17T20:10:38.790" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T20:10:38.790" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T20:10:38.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18859" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-01-17T20:10:38.790" Score="0" Body="A wheat-like cereal plant which tolerates poor soils and low temperatures. Usually used as a low percentage adjunct when included in a mash." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T20:10:38.790" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T20:10:38.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18860" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-01-17T20:12:07.043" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T20:12:07.043" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T20:12:07.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18861" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-01-17T20:12:07.043" Score="0" Body="Any of the class of soluble, crystalline, typically sweet-tasting carbohydrates found in living tissues and exemplified by glucose, sucrose, and in beer production maltose." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T20:12:07.043" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T20:12:07.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18795" CreationDate="2017-01-17T20:56:52.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;23C/73F is at the top end of the range for this yeast(WP001) you have to take into account that during the most exponential growth of the yeast it can generate a fair amount of heat in the FV and may be pushing or at least maintaining the higher temp longer than you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be trying to pitch in at around 68F/20C for a cleaner profile, the majority of the fruity esters are produced in the first 3 days of fermentation when the exponential growth phase is at its height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be that you are under pitching your yeast, thereby stressing it and causing the undesired flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is your pitching rate? litres/g, usGal/oz?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may even be six of one and half dozen of the other, as these effects can be additive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-08-19T11:19:06.903" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T11:19:06.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18822" CreationDate="2017-01-17T21:10:38.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The temps you mention in the comments look about right, my guess would be you are under pitching. I have managed deliberately to get banana flavours with both S-04 and US-05 by bumping up the pitching and FV temp for the first 2-3 days of fermentation, but if you are holding it around 68F(20C) then you should be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pitching at a slightly higher rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pitching a couple of degrees colder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ensuring good aeration of the wort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T21:10:38.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4564" CreationDate="2017-01-17T21:31:57.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first book is not necessarily on the history of brewing, but it is an historical brewing book which I found to be a fascinating read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1482324482&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The London and Country Brewer&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This second is a very well researched academic dive into the history of brewing looking at the few written accounts there are from that early period., and building to the 1880s. I found this one of the best books I have read on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1848934238/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewing Science, Technology and Print, 1700-1880&lt;/a&gt; (Sumner, James) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T21:31:57.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18870" CreationDate="2017-01-18T15:15:51.760" Score="3" ViewCount="1816" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty new to the home brew scene and about to have my first attempt at extract brewing next week.  I have spend a lot of time reading up, but openly admit I may have glossed over some aspects. Nonetheless, I feel I have a good grasp to have my first go and hey, a lot of this is about trial and error isn't it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies if this question is answered elsewhere, too - I did have a look around before posting but could not find an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of bottling day, I understand the process of racking to a bottling bucket with priming sugar etc.  My question is, is the bottling bucket absolutely essential?  What potential pitfalls would I face if I were to either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;prime the beer by adding the priming sugar to the fermenter and gently stirring in before bottling; or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using carbonating tabs in the bottles and bottling straight from the fermenter?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read up on priming sugar vs carbonating tabs, and I know the pros and cons to each, I just wondered what risk (if any) there is in going straight to bottle from the fermenter assuming either way the beer is properly primed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any thoughts/tips on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T22:31:45.713" Title="Bottling Bucket - really necessary?" Tags="|bottling|bottle-conditioning|secondary|priming|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18865" CreationDate="2017-01-18T15:59:23.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the equipment is not really necessary. It may just make it much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you use a bottling bucket, you rack from fermenter to bottling bucket, leaving a layer of dead yeast cells and sediment behind, which makes for clearer beer. This is especially important when dry hopping or adding fruit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bottling bucket you won't disturb all that sediment when you stir in the priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T15:59:23.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-18T17:03:23.447" Score="1" ViewCount="5840" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's best to follow proper procedure to avoid bottle bombs, but sometimes the unexpected occurs. Is there a good way to store bottles that would contain an unexpected bomb? I'd like to avoid the potential hazard of flying glass and the cleanup involved with soaking surrounding items in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular type of plastic bin that would contain a potential blowout? Are cardboard cases enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4436/expect-the-unexpected-how-can-i-prepare-for-bottle-bombs&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; but all of the answers seemed to be diagnosing that person's particular root cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1295" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T20:39:24.620" Title="How can I contain unexpected bottle bombs" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|storage|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18867" CreationDate="2017-01-18T17:20:02.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to avoid a &quot;bottle bomb&quot; is to ferment the brew to completion and then add a known amount of priming sugar before bottling. In such a way the amount of carbonation can be relatively well controlled and the &quot;bomb&quot; situation should never occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some do not like using priming sugar and aim to bottle the beer before fermentation of the malt is complete. If the SG is checked to make sure the brew is in a suitable state then the carbonation should be predictable, after all &quot;natural carbonation&quot; should be a repeatable process to be useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if the brew is repeatedly unpredictable or the brew is new and unfamiliar (eg &quot;real&quot; Ginger beer!) then the best thing to do is to use PET bottles with screw tops of the type used for fizzy drinks. PET bottles take a very high pressure and deform and burst rather than explode with &quot;hard shrapnel&quot;&#xA;Using PET bottles allows one to experiment more safely and work out what conditions are needed to condition the brew safely in a glass bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my own experience and comments from other brewers I have noticed that &quot;flip top&quot; bottles rarely explode. It seems as the pressure increases the top is unseated and the excess pressure vents slowly. The wire retainer has some slight give and the rubber washer allows a good seal to be reformed after venting. So that may be a option with an inbuilt safety valve. YMMV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is usually possible to use an enclosed style of plastic beer crate as a container for &quot;highly pressurised&quot; bottles. If there was a bottle explosion then the plastic crate walls would normally contain the flying shards of glass. But this is a false safety. Say the bottles were stored in such a crate or any other bin, barrel or container. Say they were highly pressured and just on the edge of blowing. That would be a very dangerous situation. For example, one might take a bottle from the &quot;safe storage&quot; and it may blow there and then in the hand due to the disturbance. No bin would prevent injury from an event like that. Which is why I recommend finding a way not to make a bottle bomb and if all else fails don't use glass.If one really must use glass try wrapping the bottles in industrial strength cling film. Even several layers of normal domestic cling film (or waterproof tape) will help stop or slow flying shards of glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay safe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-01-18T17:35:53.620" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T17:35:53.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18867" CreationDate="2017-01-18T17:40:40.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No matter how careful you are, you can pick up a wild yeast infection and wind up w/ gushers and bottle bombs. They do explode w/ some force--enough to cause minor injuries for sure--but a regular plastic storage container would contain it. I think the worst you would see is the glass exploding w/ enough force to damage the container but it would still contain the glass--but I've never had even that happen. Cardboard will too... but that's not so fun when you find the cardboard box that's been soaked in beer for three weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, the only precaution I take against bottle bombs is I sample the beer regularly for the first month or two. If it starts to gush, I put it in the fridge and drink it right away. Bottle bombs start out as just severely overcarbonated beer, if you catch it at that point, you should be pretty safe. Even safer is just to dump the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14588" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T17:40:40.927" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18865" CreationDate="2017-01-18T17:54:42.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a bucket w/ a tap in it, it sounds to me like you already have a bottling bucket. I'd probably buy another bucket w/o a tap to ferment in and bottle using your current bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can ferment in your current bucket but the sediment can actually build up enough that it will block the spigot. Even if not, you will find the outflow will stir up enough sediment that it will likely be problematic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, you could try to siphon the beer out over the top and disturb less sediment but I've found that if you are starting and stopping a siphon, the little bit of air that gets let in between the racking cane and the tubing makes it a constant fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14588" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T17:54:42.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18867" CreationDate="2017-01-18T20:39:24.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Avoid it as previous answers have stated. Outside of that, if you are worried about it I would just condition in rubbermaid containers, mainly to contain the mess.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I've never had a bomb, so i don't worry about it.  I have had gushers though; mainly because I had a few too many homebrews while bottling my homebrew, and I doubled the priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14312" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T20:39:24.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18887" CreationDate="2017-01-19T16:53:59.367" Score="0" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have the facilities to properly cold crash but my attic at this time of year is pretty cold - about 8-10°C (50°F). Would there be any benefit to leaving my beer there, maybe for an extended period, longer than a typical cold crash, or does it have to be really cold to work regardless of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T16:33:57.937" Title="Would an extended time cold crash at 10°C work or not?" Tags="|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3352" CreationDate="2017-01-19T16:56:11.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed 5 gallons of coffee stout and added 3.5 oz of coarsely ground (lightly crushed in a plastic bag with a rolling pin) medium roast beans to the carboy after fermentation was complete. The coffee flavor was plenty strong, and I would not want any more. I didn't bother sanitizing the beans at all, but they were in dry-hopping tubes that I cleaned with StarSan before using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14164" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T16:56:11.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-19T19:07:44.320" Score="1" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to make a creamsicle-ish beer? My wife really wants to me try and I'm not sure how to make it happen. A kit or an original recipe would be awesome. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14531" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T21:09:25.963" Title="Creamsicle beer" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3352" CreationDate="2017-01-19T19:20:51.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For coffee, a half ounce to an ounce per gallon is a good place to start. Two ounces a gallon should definitely put you into &quot;this just tastes like a cold cup of coffee&quot; level. I feel like I've had lots of variance w/ how much flavor I get based on the beans I used or maybe based on variances in the grind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cherries--actually berries generally--I like to joke that if you don't balk at the price, you are probably not using enough. Doing a one gallon batch should make it a little easier on the wallet. A pound per gallon is probably around where I'd start for a stout. I normally freeze the fruit and stick it in a bag because racking off loose fruit is no fun at all. This won't work in jugs so maybe using some 100% cherry juice would be an easier option--but I can't offer advice as far as amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used cocoa nibs personally but I wanted to add that I think adding just a touch of vanilla makes beers taste a lot more chocolatey to me. For this purpose, I've always though vanilla extract works easily and tastes fine. Maybe start w/ about a tsp vanila per gallon. You kind of want to almost taste it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14588" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T19:20:51.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18880" CreationDate="2017-01-19T21:09:22.127" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more of a general question that I'd like to throw out to homebrewers that like to 'experiment' with beer recipes.  I've been through enough all-grain brews now that know my equipment fairly well, and even though I'm still learning tips and tricks along the way I want to throw out a question on experimenting with different ingredients (different yeast, malts, hops).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the art and science of brewing as much as drinking my results.  So much so that I really enjoy seeing how certain combinations taste rather than just attempting to make a 'clone'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any other curious brewers that like to try to make their own recipes have any suggestions on ways to experiment various combinations most efficiently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T10:10:39.490" Title="Creating Brew Recipes" Tags="|beer|recipe|beer-styles|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18874" CreationDate="2017-01-19T21:28:25.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose one could start by making a beer flavoured with Vanilla and lactose. Vanilla beer is not at all unknown but one would probably want the ice cream aspect more pronounced for creamsicle. Hence the idea of adding lactose (think milk stout) especially if one wants it sweet. For a more pronounced cream taste one might want to use a cream flavouring essence - one or two drops in a 25ltr brew should add a hint of cream without overwhelming the palette or the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of fruit beers/ciders and fruit flavoured beers. Apple, Raspberry and cherry are well known. Lemon is a popular flavouring in &quot;Mexican&quot; cervezas. So using fruit is a common thing. The only question is which one and how. If one can make juice from fresh fruit then that is perfect. Add the desired fruit in juice form - although it might be prudent to pasteurise or even boil it first. Otherwise find  commercial fruit juice (eg 1 lltr to 23 wort) and add it to the fermentation vessel. Some fruits add a very appealing taste and aroma - others not so much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a good starting point would be a Vanilla flavoured beer with added lactose,  drop or two of cream flavour essence and pasteurised fruit juice of choice. Blueberry sounds nice....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all those flavours there is not too much point in making a dark beer. I suppose a vanilla chocolate milk stout is not beyond belief although the roast grains would have to be well chosen and blended and probably well conditioned in the bottle too. So it seems a pale ale or lager type of base might be the best place to start. A nobel hop like Halltertau, Tettnanger might be better than a bittering hop - if one wanted to use hops at all. One might even consider a wheat beer base like Hoegarden which is a spiced beer with coriander and orange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-01-20T09:44:47.207" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T09:44:47.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18876" CreationDate="2017-01-19T23:18:07.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to the home brewing scene (only about to start my first ever brew), but I like to know the science behind things I do before I do them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have already read this, but I read this entire ebook before deciding to start my home brewing hobby and it's already giving me ideas of ways I can experiment with yeast and hops etc. down the line.  Might be worth a look if you haven't already - if you're adept with all grain brewing you may just be able to cherry pick the info you need from chapters dedicated to yeast, hops and such. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.30draugi.lv/meslaine/How_To_Brew_-_By_John_Palmer.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.30draugi.lv/meslaine/How_To_Brew_-_By_John_Palmer.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T23:18:07.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18876" CreationDate="2017-01-20T04:06:43.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest reading &quot;Experimental Homebrew&quot; by Denny Conn and Drew Beechum. It's all there. Another good source might be Brulosophy blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing bad/boring at trying to create a &quot;clone&quot; btw. See &quot;Can You Brew It&quot; podcast. Creating a perfect clone of a famous beer is actually difficult and requires a lot of research and experiments, i.e. it's not just simply following a recipe that you find in some forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T04:06:43.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16904" CreationDate="2017-01-20T09:50:07.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try brewing with extract first - less equipment needed and the beer produced is as fine as any other. One can produce a good beer and even a fine lager with simple equipment and it is not as difficult as it is often said. Pre-hopped extract kits are easy on the brain and the palate. As confidence improves moving to just extract and steeped grains and loose hops is a natural progression. On can go on to all grain brewing but IMHO there is little extra to be gained - however &quot;authentic&quot; the process might be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T09:50:07.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18876" CreationDate="2017-01-20T10:10:39.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most effective way to experiment with various ingredients is to make up a larger amount of base wort, split it into sufficient parts to use with various ingredients and ferment. When all is completed it is then possible to directly compare the effect of any addition or ingredient by tasting one sample against another. I have found there is a reduced value in comparing a beer to another from memory. Comparing two brews from different times is always possible but may not yield directly comparable results due to the effect of conditioning/ageing in the bottle/barrel.So while one may prefer one beer to another it would be more difficult to say if the flavour was down to ingredients or the effect of ageing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only other observation when experimenting with single batch brews is to brew small and often and keep a small stock to allow conditioning. Designing a beer tends to be a &quot;statistical&quot; process that can rarely be got right in one go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T10:10:39.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="346" CreationDate="2017-01-20T10:16:35.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my many years of using them I have found no difference to using green or brown beer bottles for storing and conditioning home brewed beer. The jury is still out on the subject of clear bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T10:16:35.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2017-01-20T10:25:12.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As one is only fermenting for 14 days in a pre-used plastic container I would argue that it is safe to ferment in a plastic food grade container. In fact one might argue that the more one used it for fermenting the safer it would be as there is only a limited and very small amount of &quot;objectionable&quot; chemicals in the plastic to begin with. I presume the original water was consumed without complaint so one might wonder why any beer brewed in it would be &quot;bad&quot;. Yes there may be better things to use but I don't think it would be deleterious &lt;em&gt;per se&lt;/em&gt; to use this item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T10:25:12.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18792" CreationDate="2017-01-20T15:29:01.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not comfortable with the strainer approach (or maybe don't have a sanitised one to hand) and wish to continue with the syphon, could the whirl-pooling technique work here? Stirring the brew pot quickly until a whirlpool effect is created. The heavier elements of the break and other ingredients will gather in the centre of the pot allowing you to syphon nearly all of the wort from closer to the side of the pot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it's a good technique for extract brewing, but having never tried a partial mash I'm not certain if there may be too many other elements to get a positive effect from this technique. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T15:29:01.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18874" CreationDate="2017-01-20T16:14:55.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might be reading what you want wrong but if you want something that tastes like eating an orange creamsicle--as in maybe a little artificial tasting--it is not that hard. Get a kit from your favorite homebrew supply for a mild, light colored ale like a blond ale or maybe an American wheat and just add vanilla and orange extract to it (maybe leave out some or all of the aroma hops). If you want something a little more involved make your own flavor extract w/ orange zest and vanilla beans soaked in spirits. Taste test on a small sample and scale up to the full batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14588" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T16:14:55.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18872" CreationDate="2017-01-20T16:33:57.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It won't hurt anything for sure. It will work about how you'd expect, actually, your beer will clear up quicker than at room temperature but not as fast as if you could get it down to 35 F or wherever you'd cold crash at. Some things like chill haze, you won't get to settle out unless it's cold enough to actually see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50 F should be cold enough for gelatin finings if you are concerned w/ clear beer. You could also probably place the fermenter in a container or ice water or a swamp cooler setup to get it a few degrees cooler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14588" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T16:33:57.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18889" CreationDate="2017-01-21T12:39:53.493" Score="3" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have three young kids ages 7, 5, and 3 at the time of this writing. They are home schooled, so we are in the habit of educating them in everything we do - especially the older two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taboos aside, there is a &lt;em&gt;ton&lt;/em&gt; a kid can learn from home brewing, particularly STEM-related. Are there any particular activities you guys have done with your kids to help them learn about microbial growth, the scientific process, and all the other wonderful geeky things we enjoy while brewing at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;One thing we ended up doing was watching whatever we could find on YouTube about fermentation, culturing, etc. that I felt they could understand. What really hit the spot was watching a time lapse of a culture growing in a petri dish while I explained the process in 6 year old terms. We then built this using bottles, baker's yeast, balloons and electric tape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bar9c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bar9c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;science! &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kids had a lot of fun with this and since it's baker's yeast it took less than an hour to blow up the balloons!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14587" LastEditorUserId="14587" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T00:44:10.633" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T00:44:10.633" Title="Educational Things to Do For Kids while Home Brewing" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18888" CreationDate="2017-01-21T15:12:48.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to show them is that useful fermentation occurs almost everywhere. Beer is the obvious example but bread, yogurt and sauerkraut (or kimchi) and &quot;real ginger beer&quot; are just as useful and widespread. Even tobacco is (dry) &quot;fermented&quot; over a year to give a more refined flavour and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try making real ginger beer using the ginger beer SCOBY because it is mostly the same process as fermenting beer, produces a non (or weakly) alcoholic drink, is a good pro-biotic and can be on &quot;free issue&quot; to the children for drinking. It is also tasty and very easy to keep and store and rarely if ever gets infected. The other easy fermented thing to make is sauerkraut which is also a good pro-biotic and digestive aid. The trick is to use fresh cabbages cut fresh from the garden as they contain maximum sugars to be fermented. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One neat trick I have seen for kids to demonstrate fermentation and CO2 gas production is to put a yeast and sugar solution in a balloon and tie it up. The fermentation inflates the balloon to varying degrees. Now alter the yeast, water and sugar amounts. Alter the temperature. How do the balloons behave? What temperature does fermentation stop (both high and low)? A whole host of interesting experiments!EDIT: One can also use &quot;snaplock&quot; type plastic storage bags instead of balloons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if the kids want to drink &quot;small beer&quot; then yeast can be used to make fast fermenting fruit flavoured drinks with minimal alcohol from flavoured sugar water. I recommend using plastic PET fizzy drinks bottles for containing any such drinks. Any mistake will not result in such a dangerous bottle fracture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-01-22T09:00:18.887" LastActivityDate="2017-01-22T09:00:18.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-21T18:22:59.683" Score="3" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started using RO water produced from this thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A2QoV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A2QoV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Countertop Portable Universal 5-stage Reverse Osmosis RO Purification Water System&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00GDGTKRY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Countertop Portable Universal 5-stage Reverse Osmosis RO Purification Water System with DI Deionizing Mixed Bed 0PPM postfilter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TDS meter (cheap amazon thing) reads 0 ppm. I used Bru'n Water to create a water profile for a Kolsch 15 lb pils, 8oz flaked wheat, 3 oz Acid Malt. Added 2.5 grams Calcium Chloride to mash water of 5.7 gallons. Bru'n water had my PH target at 5.41, but actual PH was closer to 5.1, and I had to tweak the mash with some pickling lime to reach 5.3. Ph meter is a milwaukee ph 53 and I calibrated to 4.01 solution, also chilled mash sample to room temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this low PH common using RO water? I know there are lot's of variables here (malt, strength of acid malt etc...) but am I missing something big or is this sort of thing common? &#xA;Am I just going to have to keep good notes and work it out? Any pointers or a sanity check of yea..well that's what you have to do would be helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2017-01-23T13:01:10.160" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T21:07:50.173" Title="RO Water Sanity Check" Tags="|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18822" CreationDate="2017-01-21T18:34:01.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you said you clean like crazy but...do you strip down you cold side ball valves. I take mine apart now after every brew and they go into PBW...every time. Ball valves don't stay clean, three piece ball valves can be stripped down and cleaned. I have one that is much better than the rest but it still ends up with some wort in it intermittently, my ball valves on the conical are always yeasty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T18:34:01.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13189" CreationDate="2017-01-21T18:36:12.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go over to homebrew finds look up &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2011/02/build-spunding-valve.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spunding valve&lt;/a&gt;, he has all of the parts needed to build one. 25 bucks or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2017-01-23T11:24:41.160" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T11:24:41.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18780" CreationDate="2017-01-21T18:41:46.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of those things where more is not better. If you overdose your iodophor, it can lead to tasting iodine in your beer, and adding that iodine flavor to your plastic hoses and buckets. We had a commercial brewer do a test batch before the brewery opened and brought it to a party, he over did it with the iodophor and it was noticeable in the beer, several of us told him to use as directed. I think he was embarrassed but appreciative too.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T18:41:46.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-23T10:34:17.517" Score="1" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done 2 one-gallon AG brews now, and both have hit approx. 50% efficiency. I thought I'd fixed what was obviously wrong between the two, but the second one still looks like it's going to come out at about 2% ABV... I wondered if anyone could tell me what I am likely to be doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware this is a rather 'rustic' setup! If it's simply a case of needing better equipment then good to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated 1 1/2 quarts of water per lb of grain to 160F in a stock pot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added grain and stirred, temp got down to approx. 150F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put stock pot in a pre-heated (and turned off) oven, and left for 60 mins, checking temp every 15 mins, I was pretty confident I stayed between 148-160 (it got a bit hot at first but I stirred until cooler)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poured mash into large fine mesh colander over bucket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then slowly poured 170f water heated in separate pans over the top, trying to cover as much of the grain as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This took about 15 mins before hitting 1 1/2 gallons pre-boil volume&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned out stock-pot, added colander on top and recirculated wort through grains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then brought to a rolling boil and followed hop schedule&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then cooled in 20 mins to 75F in an ice bath&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poured through fine mesh strainer into fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was slightly below 1 gallon (probably due to large stock pot, big surface area) so topped up with water, but not much&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitched yeast etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was aiming for OG of 1.050 (it's an APA), and I've hit 1.035... which is obviously not great. Where is the most likely misstep? I'm thinking sparging, as the water got through so quickly...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14605" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T19:15:55.433" Title="AG brewing newbie, can only hit 50% efficiency, what's going wrong?" Tags="|wort|brewing|efficiency|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18898" CreationDate="2017-01-23T14:54:29.543" Score="0" ViewCount="2208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mentioned in a previous question that I am about to have a go at my first home brew.  This was prompted when the brother-in-law's girlfriend gave me a beer kit for Christmas (Tom Caxton Real Ale).  I had thought about having a go at this a few times over the years so this was just the gentle push I needed. I am also aware that it is just as easy nowadays to create a homebrew without the need for a kit, but there's no harm in starting out with one either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done a lot of reading around the science behind home brewing and I fully on board with the theory of &quot;never follow the kits instructions&quot; (which would ultimately have me add my LME kit to 1 gallon of warm water and then top up with 4 gallons of cold water and leave it).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am going to follow one of the methods I have read - the boil, hot break, bittering hops etc. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question (and I do spot the irony/hypocrisy in this) relates to the beer kit says to add 1kg of brewing sugar to the mix prior to primary fermentation, but one of the in depth brewing guides I read (John Palmer's 'How to Brew') says never to follow that step as, in times gone by malt extract producers have tended to adulterate their products with sugar already.  However, in the same breath, he says the homebrewing has come a long way recently and producers are starting to take more pride in their work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do I or don't I add brewing sugar prior to primary fermentation?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My understanding is that LME typically yields 34 to 38 points at OG, so for a 5 gallon batch, I would likely need 5 lbs of LME to achieve 1.034 to 1.038 OG.  But my kit purports to make 5 gallons/40 pints yet it only has 4 lbs of LME.  This would mean a likely lower OG yield would it not?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If my assumption at 2. is correct, would the additional brewing sugar help to increase the OG? And would the additional sugar be fermentable or would it just remain suspended in the final beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the ABV of my resulting brew is a secondary concern, I also don't want a brew that is safe to drive with (FYI - I absolutely do not condone drink driving).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that a lot of the fermentation process will also depend on the quality of the yeast, which is why I will invest in a named brand rather than use the pack provided with my kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also interested to hear thoughts on whether using the brewing sugar for primary fermentation would affect the taste or body of the final brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastEditorUserId="14585" LastEditDate="2017-01-23T15:28:20.367" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T17:56:01.507" Title="Adding Sugar before primary fermentation and a few associate Gravity Questions" Tags="|brewing|original-gravity|sugar|kits|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18899" CreationDate="2017-01-23T15:06:24.310" Score="0" ViewCount="1132" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long should Ice wine be aged in either bulk aging (leaving it in the carboy) or in bottle aging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does the aging process only depend on the type of grape being used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14602" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T18:13:51.827" Title="How long should Ice wine be aged?" Tags="|bottling|wine|aging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18896" CreationDate="2017-01-23T17:56:01.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making beer with hopped Malt extract is slightly different to making beer using all-grain method. Some of the terms and actions used for all grain are not really applicable to kits. One can of course do whatever one wishes but one might also ask does doing so add anything to the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using plain malt extract then one can and should use leaf/pellet hops for bittering and one might wish to use steeped grain to adjust the colour and flavour. However with a kit that is not always useful. Some kits really do work very well just as the manufacturer intended others can be tweaked and modified to produce a variety of different tasting brews. But to answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- add the sugar as instructed or the beer will be lacking in alcohol. The kit is used to supply the flavour and the body - the added sugar usually supplies the main part of the alcohol. That's not to say that one can't use more extract instead of sugar - but one has to add one of sugar or malt extract, or end up with &quot;small beer&quot;. Sugar is the cheapest option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - a bit of a convoluted question with assumptions, but, in 24 litres one might dissolve, for example, 3 Kg of LME for a &quot;typical&quot; beer wort. 5lb of LME for 5gals is &quot;about right&quot;. In this case the manufacturer recommends using the 4lb of LME and adding some sugar. I suppose the instructions recommend about 1lb or even slightly more to the made up wort. Together that would increase the OG of the wort to approximately the recommended OG. The subject of composition of canned malt extract is the subject of much debate. Sugar added to the malt extract is one thing and added malto-dextrin is another. The easiest way around this is to by &quot;pure&quot; malt extract (dry or liquid) then one can confirm the purity of the ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- adding sugar (sucrose or dextrose) will increase the OG of the wort. Infact adding any soluble compound will increase the OG of the wort - but adding sugar is more useful because it ferments to make alcohol and carbon dioxide (and water). There are two types of carbohydrate - fermentable and non-fermentable. Sucrose, dextrose, fructose, maltose and so on are all fermentable and will be fermented according to the attenuation rate of the yeast. However some sugars like lactose and some polysacharides like malto-dextrins and starch are not directly fermantable by Saccharomyces. If added to the wort these will not ferment to make alcohol but will remain in solution and at best will add &quot;body&quot; and perhaps some sweetness to the final brew. In the given example I suppose one could add up to 1Kg (2lbs)of sugar to the wort to increase the ABV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast is only as good as it is active. So brand name or what's in the packet could both work well but the only way to find out is to test it. The simplest way (even with a brand name) is to make up a weak sugar solution in tepid water and add the yeast then wait for (say ) 1 hour at room temp. If the yeast is active it will be foaming on the surface and micro bubbling in the body. If it is not then DON'T ADD IT - go get some yeast that can exhibit activity and make up a new solution.  A typical solution is made up in a cleaned bottle (boiling water pasteurised) with one cup of boiled water to dissolve and pasteurise two table spoons of sugar, then that solution is further diluted with cold water to &quot;hand warm&quot; temperature. When the solution is at the correct temp - cast in the yeast and leave for 30 minutes. Shake vigorously every 10 minutes to aerate the solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using white table sugar (sucrose) in the primary fermentation is often said to give the beer a sucrose &quot;tang&quot; - others usually say any such taste is masked by the hops. Using glucose (brewers sugar) is supposed to be almost unnoticeable except for the taste of the extra alcohol produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiling extract malt to make beer is not necessary. The best way to use malt extract is to put some freshly boiled water in the fermentation bin then stir in the malt extract until dissolved. The process will pasteurise the extract (not that is is usually needed) and the very hot water helps the malt syrup dissolve more easily. Next add any sugars and perhaps some more boiled water to help it all dissolve. Then use cold water (I use cold tap water) to increase the volume and reduce the temperature. If the water can be directed in a jet to aerate and foam the wort then that is good for including some dissolved oxygen for the yeast. Add more hot water if needed. When all is done and at the correct temp and correct volume - pitch the yeast. If one wishes to add more hops  the BEST method by far is to boil the hops separately in water for the required time (adding bittering hops and aroma hops at the appropriate times), when the hop boiling is complete the &quot;hop tea&quot; can be strained into the freshly made up wort in the fermentation vessel. In a similar way roast or speciality grains can be steeped in hot water for (say) 30 minutes and the resulting dark, flavoured liquid can be added to the wort like the hops. It is a good idea to add all these ingredient to the boiled water in the Fermentation vessel first. Then dilute with cold water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T17:56:01.507" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18897" CreationDate="2017-01-23T18:13:51.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ice wine is usually aged in bottles rather than barrels but traditions vary. The usual advice is to leave the ice wine to mature slowly for a few years at the minimum but other say it can be drinkable before that. Few recommend drinking ice wine (or any wine) before one year. Ice wines can change noticeably over time and usually improve steadily with increasing years in the bottle. IMHO the best ice wines I have tried have been decades old - I still have a langenlonsheimer Louerweg 1973er that will improve for another decade yet!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T18:13:51.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18980" CreationDate="2017-01-23T18:48:17.940" Score="3" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for people who have experience with &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01MXUT5RH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ceramic heating bulbs&lt;/a&gt; - I know these are effective for maintaining primary fermentation temps but I am curious about higher temps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you use (or do you have experience using) one of these ceramic heaters to increase temps to as high as 100 degrees fahrenheit (for souring) in a large vessel (chest freezer)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13577" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T02:35:26.623" Title="Ceramic heating bulb for pets as fermentation chamber heater" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|sour|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18895" CreationDate="2017-01-23T19:49:54.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That part where you said that &quot;it got a bit hot at first&quot; is likely your culprit. The enzymes that break starches down into sugars (Amylase) don't like getting too hot and they die off.  It's far better to start too cool and increase the heat to get where you want it (in fact, many recipes use this method -- it's called step mashing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T19:49:54.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18890" CreationDate="2017-01-23T22:18:39.890" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your ro water shouldn't effect your ph also you can do a quick purity test with a multimeter set it to the mega ohms range and keep the probes about a cm apart they should read about 18Mohm. If that's the case you will have very pure watter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13445" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T22:18:39.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18895" CreationDate="2017-01-24T05:14:23.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My efficiency was low (but not as low as yours) until I made two changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grain crush: I now run the grains twice through my LHBS grain mill&#xA;to get a finer crush&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mash pH: I discovered that my water pH is very high and my mash pH&#xA;was nowhere near the optimum. Now I measure the mash pH and adjust as&#xA;necessary to get in the 5.2 - 5.6 range&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mash efficiency is now typically  75-80%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14164" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T05:14:23.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-24T13:01:22.647" Score="1" ViewCount="1878" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read different opinions on this, but I wanted to try a starter because my recent brews have not gone that well. Is it advantageous to do a starter, assuming rehydration first, with dry yeast, or is it of little benefit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14135" LastActivityDate="2018-12-10T04:26:43.890" Title="Using dry yeast in a yeast starter" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18904" CreationDate="2017-01-24T14:46:14.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast starter's goal is multiplying yeast cells so they do not have too difficult job eating through all the sugar in your wort. It is recommended to do them while using liquid yeast because they are more delicate and die much faster than dried version, thus reducing the cell count and lowering your fermentation parameters. Dry yeast does not need to be multiplied over its packet numbers in normal circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, it would be useful to make a starter with dry yeast in case of higher gravity beers. It is recommended to use more than one packet of dry yeast for gravity from about 18 Blg (~1.074 OG), but you can multiply cells from one packet in a starter to get similar result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14137" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T14:46:14.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18904" CreationDate="2017-01-24T16:25:41.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, it not necessary nor recommended to do a starter with dry yeast.  If you tell us the problems you're trying to avoid we may be able to help diagnose them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T16:25:41.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18908" CreationDate="2017-01-24T22:28:47.543" Score="6" ViewCount="3550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to double the size of my batches from 5 gallons to 10 gallons without changing equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, let's say I have a 5 gallon recipe for an IPA.  I know my mash cooler is big enough to mash at least double the grain bill for my 5 gallon recipe (I have brewed 5 gallon batches of strong ales which easily have more than twice the grain of my 5 gallon IPA recipe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I mash twice the grain for my 5 gallon IPA recipe, then just boil the ~6 gallons of wort (and double the hop additions), can I then split the higher OG 5 gallons of wort into two fermenters (2.5 gallons in each) and top off each fermenter with another 2.5 gallons of distilled water each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know mash and boil times will be extended due to the higher grain/OG, but is there anything inherently problematic with &quot;watering&quot; down a higher concentration wort to double the batch size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14615" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T13:41:17.700" Title="Doubling batch size by diluting wort in fermenter?" Tags="|recipe-scaling|batch-size|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18907" CreationDate="2017-01-24T22:36:25.120" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has been done before.  Essentially you are brewing a high gravity wort and diluting it.  I understand some large breweries do the same.  This article from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/articles/brewing_high_gravity_beers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;More Beer&lt;/a&gt; has some thoughts on it. They recommend no more than a 30-40% dilution - not 100%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T22:36:25.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18907" CreationDate="2017-01-24T23:31:07.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is something that is commonly done, and I have done it myself many times. A lot of extract recipes call for a partial boil with water added to make the final volume. The main thing you need to take into account is your hop utilization. Boiling them in the highly concentrated wort will decrease the solubility, so you will need to add more than double the hops to get the same IBU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14164" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T23:31:07.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-24T23:54:09.867" Score="2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does the fermentability of wort affect the speed of fermentation, if at all? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have two batches of wort mashed at different temperatures (say 148 °F and 156 °F - 64/69°C) and I pitch the same amount of the same yeast into both, what will happen in the first few days? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the gravity of the more fermentable wort drop faster, or will it go at the same speed as the other and just continue longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am really trying to get at is whether the drop in gravity during the first 24-48 hours of fermentation can be used to estimate the final gravity. My experience says no, but I haven't done enough brews in nearly identical conditions to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14164" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-09T16:59:55.877" LastActivityDate="2018-03-11T07:09:03.937" Title="Does fermentation rate depend on fermentability?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18910" CreationDate="2017-01-25T00:39:21.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen that to be the case.  I know of no literature that has looked at this specifically.  My experience is that the rate of fermentation is strain dependent and not wort dependent.  The yeast are not slowed by non-fermentables as they seek out fermentables.  I am sure there may be differences at the extremes, but in the frame work of your question it shouldn't effect the rate much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T00:39:21.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18907" CreationDate="2017-01-25T02:42:01.097" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;High gravity brewing is a technique used by the giant macro brewers of adjunct american lager.  They'll brew a high gravity wort, and add water in the fermenters.  I first heard this from Mitch Steele of Stone at the time, who had worked for Anheuser-Busch making Budweiser.  His interview on Brewing Network The Session from 11-05-2006 described the way they did it when he worked there in the 1990s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clear advantage to the technique is economies of scale.  They can brew concentrated batches and increase their total output by adding cool water.  Not only does it save on energy to mash and boil, but also saves on cooling expenses.  The drawback is loss of flavor.  Hop utilization could decrease at higher gravities too, but they aren't typically doing hoppy beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a home brew level, you are limited by the size of your mash and boil kettle when going for a double batch.  There is nothing wrong with your water-down idea.  It works but you might loose some of your beer's flavor potential.  Since your mash tun is large enough for a double-batch of regular strength, you must be lacking boil kettle room for a double batch?  You can upgrade to a 15.5 gallon converted keg for a budget option.  That is pushing it because you're using up to 13 gallons pre-boil, so you have little room for foam.  If you try it I recommend a spray bottle and perhaps some anti-foaming agent, then really keep an eye on it when it starts boiling, but its totally do-able.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14448" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T02:42:01.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18910" CreationDate="2017-01-25T02:59:00.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need to pitch the correct amount of active yeast for a quick start to fermentation.  Yeast will have a lag phase as it wakes up, then an aerobic growth/lag phase as it reproduces, then an anaerobic fermentation phase followed by a cleanup phase.  Assuming you are pitching just a normal home brew pitch of yeast, such as one vial or smack pack, but different wort gravities, the one with the most fermentability should theoretically take a little longer to get started, because it should need a longer growth phase to get the yeast cell population high enough.  Yeast can sense the amount of fermentability in wort, and will continue reproducing in the growth phase before it has enough brothers and sisters, then begins fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To the second part of your question, if you have a quick and vigorous start to fermentation in the first 24 hours you are doing something right.  Final gravity and apparent attenuation are strain dependent, but you should be able to maximize it to its potential by keeping the yeast happy.  That means pitching an active and healthy yeast OR pitching healthy yeast into oxygenated wort where it will reproduce, keep everything at the optimal temperature, controlling your temperatures, and having yeast nutrients in the wort.  You could go for the high end of the temperature range for your yeast strain for maximum attenuation but that may introduce off flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14448" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T02:59:00.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18915" CreationDate="2017-01-25T10:41:17.670" Score="1" ViewCount="1030" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm conscious this is the third question I've asked before I even get started on my first brew, but hey-ho; better to learn from the experience of others and get as close to &quot;right&quot; first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am about to start an ale brew and understand the ideal temperature for fermentation to be effective is in the range of 18 degrees centigrade (c. 64F) to 22 degrees centigrade (c. 72F) - maybe even 20-22C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that where I live currently (north west England) the outside air temperature is a crisp 4-8C during the day dropping to freezing at night.  The impact of this is that even with regular central heating, the best indoor range of air temperature I can get is between 15C (lowest) and 18.5C (highest) - having taken regular test readings at intermittent intervals throughout a few days - and I am not sure how these factors would impact on the temperature of my brew and fermentation.  I don't have a home thermostat in order to keep a constant, so the indoor temperature fluctuates with the timed on/off intervals of my central heating (presently 1.5 hours at 6am, 1 hour at midday and 2 hours from 5-7pm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had considered a number of options to maintain a decent temperature including heat mats and brew belts and I am comfortable with the pros and cons of each and their potential effects on the brew.  I have ruled out more expensive thermostatic options as too expensive to blow on my first brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any thoughts on how they would maintain a suitable temp during fermentation with these conditions? Has or does anyone currently brew ales in these conditions with positive results? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, I have read that active fermentation can warm a brew by 5-8C, so assuming I get the fermentation going in the correct range, is it possible that the heat given off during fermentation could actually keep my brew in the correct range anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T20:08:45.943" Title="Controlling fermentation temperatures" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|ale|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18914" CreationDate="2017-01-25T11:37:28.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in the south of England where it has recently been even colder than &quot;oop North&quot;. At this time of year I go with the seasons and brew the year's supply of lager(!!!). Its perfectly lagered and crisp by summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However to answer the particular question - yes, I brew ales, light and dark, during the winter months at &quot;less than room temperature&quot; and they turn out perfectly. Of course beer is a matter of taste and some prefer the fresh (slightly) &quot;fruity&quot; flavour of beer fermented at higher temperatures others prefer a crisp IPA fermented at lower temperatures. But whatever, beer will ferment just fine at 10C or 15C, it just takes a little longer. Think (for example) 14 days instead of 10 days for primary fermentation. As in most brewing, the time is slightly irrelevant. The main factor to judge progress by is the specific gravity (density) of the brew. Maybe it is yeast type dependant - I have heard that &quot;Turbo yeasts&quot; that make up to 21 percent ABV require a rather narrow range of temperatures to achieve their stated attenuation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one decides one must ferment at higher temperatures, then I find a heat belt can be better than a heat pad - but both will work. If it is very cold then additionally part  wrapping a blanket (or similar) around the fermentation bin will usually do the trick. I have even placed the brew bin next to a radiator, there was definite temperature cycle in the wort from day to night but it did not seem to affect the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large fast fermentation can heat up and even require cooling in very hot weather. But in UK it is rare to get a &quot;normal&quot; brew to heat appreciably while fermenting. I have possibly noticed a few degrees rise in an insulated brew bin but nothing I thought I should counteract. The &quot;Turbo yeast&quot; instructions state that the fermentation should work well for 25 litre batches but advises against doubling the batch to 50 litres as the &quot;heat produced could adversely affect the fermentation&quot;. But that is the only stated case that I know of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T11:37:28.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18914" CreationDate="2017-01-25T16:21:50.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember that yeast are living things and will regulate their own temperature as best they can. I've kept fermenters in rooms with an ambient temp around 18C and the yeast raised the fermenter temp to about 20C. You could also help them by wrapping the fermenter in an insulated blanket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3709" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T16:21:50.980" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18797" CreationDate="2017-01-25T16:42:34.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you like the flavor profile you're getting and just want more, the answer is probably exactly what you expect: use more hops. Otherwise, you will probably want to experiment w/ varieties. A good start is to find a commercial beer you like, figure out what hops they use and start from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the most efficient way is to do a bittering addition at the start of the boil and save the rest for the last ten minutes or so plus dry hop. I work from this philosophy for a pretty hefty majority of my beers but being most effecient/cost effective isn't necessarily what will give you the best beer. My very best and biggest hop monsters have been where I've gone all out: first wort hops, additions every ten or fifteen minutes and huge additions at the end of the boil and big piles of dry hops. This is where you are really pushing beyond the point of diminishing returns and are just throwing hops at the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For rough guidelines on amounts, I'd say maybe 2-6 oz at the end of the boil plus at least a couple ounces dry hops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14588" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T16:42:34.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18910" CreationDate="2017-01-25T18:25:07.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose one might ask if pilsners ferment faster than stouts, as those two beers are examples from both ends of the non-fermentables spectrum. From experience they under go primary fermentation at about the same rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T18:25:07.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18925" CreationDate="2017-01-25T18:31:29.780" Score="3" ViewCount="816" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen recommendations to do a protein rest for under-modified  malts. What are under-modified malts and how would I know if a malt is highly modified or under-modified. I had a quick look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.morebeer.com/brewingtechniques/bmg/noonan.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; but it's pretty technical and I didn't see how I could know before I purchased the malt. Are there any ways to know by reading the specifications - for example a page like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bestmalz.de/en/malts/best-pilsen-malt/?portfolioID=1193&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastEditorUserId="3977" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T12:53:00.893" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T12:53:00.893" Title="How would I know if a malt was under modified?" Tags="|malt|protien-rest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2017-01-25T18:32:03.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mead is thousands of years old.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The word Mead or Honey( from the Slavic word &quot;Myod&quot; (Me-yo-d) or   honey)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why we use the Slavic word I can only guess but I have an idea....&#xA;    Mead was from the south I.E. Eygpt - Greece. Constantinople had a strong trading relationship with Russia and it was exported to Europe from Russia &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mead wine, beer or Distilled it is called &quot;Medavoha&quot; from honey. Mostly served on Easter. The really good stuff is hard to find. A lot of people just infuse cheap vodka with honey as a substitute (major hangover but so good). It is a Russian/Ukrainian/Slav Drink &quot;For the king's table&quot; an old Russian/Ukrainian/Slav saying. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Henceforth you have it in Uga-Slavia or (southern Slavs, who moved down south about 1000 years ago) &#xA;which is where you get the Croatian/Serbian (ex-Yugoslavia) word &quot;Medovacha&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making some now. The yeast takes a long time to settle. Right now I'm making 2 beers with it using Saf-brew T-58 and S-23 lager. One month in and the brewing finally slowed down a bit to one bubble every 6 seconds. Now it's time to rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 5 other yeast I'm going to try &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lavin R2&#xA;WLP099&#xA;Mangrove jacks M05&#xA;smack pack from Wyeast 3278&#xA;still spirits Rum&#xA;still spirits Whisky &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will probably try to distil it like whiskey to keep as much of the flavor as possible. Instead of using stainless steel which strips much of the flavor I will use copper alembic pot still top on top of a grain master at about 110 C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any hints would be very welcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last point &#xA;  The US President Carter made distilling for one's own personal use Legal!&#xA;Some states have made provisional laws which require licenses. Most states don't care!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14618" LastEditorUserId="14618" LastEditDate="2017-02-27T16:40:21.080" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T16:40:21.080" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2017-01-25T18:32:03.543" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18874" CreationDate="2017-01-25T18:40:32.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you'd be willing to take the easy way out, and technically still be beer... it has malt and hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG 1.050&#xA;FG 1.014&#xA;ABV 4.8%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7 pounds of Pilsner/Extra Light LME&#xA;Dissolve into hot water and boil for 45 minutes&#xA;4g Warrior hop pellets (or any kind of hops, really) at 45 minutes&#xA;remove hops, cool wort to 70F and pitch 1 packet of Safale US-05 dry American Ale yeast, ferment until done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add this secret ingredient to taste:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDtel.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/MiO-Orange-Vanilla-Liquid-Water-Enhancer-1.62-fl-oz/43184719&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDtel.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mio Orange Vanilla&quot; title=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/MiO-Orange-Vanilla-Liquid-Water-Enhancer-1.62-fl-oz/43184719&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It definitely tastes like a Creamsicle when mixed in water, and gives a light orange color.  You'll have a medium-low bodied neutral ale without much bitterness that should let the flavoring shine through.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to add body, add 4 tablespoons of Maltodextrin to the boil.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To get a nice fluffy white creamy head (should compliment the creamsicle experience), you can mash all-grain with 30-50% Wheat Malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14448" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T18:40:32.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6273" CreationDate="2017-01-25T18:54:52.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oregon Fruit Products purees are what I use for Fruit beer for the reasons you mentioned.  I don't remember seeing the purees in a grocery store, just the canned fruits such as for pie filling.  I can pick up the purees off the shelves at the Local Homebrew Supply Store.  Also, Oregon Fruit Products has a link to their Amazon store for all their products from their webpage: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oregonfruit.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oregon Fruit Products&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14448" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T18:54:52.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18914" CreationDate="2017-01-25T19:17:27.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can put your fermentor closer to the heat source in a room.  If you have hot air heat you can put the fermenter over a floor vent and cover it with a towel or box.  You can also only cover half the vent with a box/towel, placing the fermentor next too (not on) the vent.  If you have radiator type heat the same techniques can work but you'll want to have the fermentor further away as radiators tend to get really hot.&#xA;It takes a little trial and error but its a manageable means of having the fermentor be warmer than the ambient room around it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T19:17:27.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18919" CreationDate="2017-01-26T05:33:19.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modification is the process of barley becoming malt.  It happens naturally by adding water which activates enzymes which break down a starchy endosperm inside the barley husk into carbohydrates.  This is called germination.  Depending on the barley variety and growing conditions, there will also be varying levels of proteins in the endosperm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbohydrate modification (starches broken down into sugars) can be indicated by the difference in fine/coarse, viscosity, friability, and beta glucan level.  A higher fine/coarse difference means poor modification, and higher friability means higher modification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One measure of protein modification can be the ratio of soluble proteins to total proteins (S/T ratio).  Also called a Kolbach index.  This number can range from mid 30-45+ in fully-modified malts, but that ratio is dependent on the original protein levels in the barley so is variety dependent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can request a COA (certificate of analysis) for every batch of malt, which will have most of the above mentioned numbers on it.  For example the specifications you linked to in your question have a range of possible values, meaning it really varies batch-to-batch and crop to crop.  There is not a single number that says 'this is fully modified malt'.  That being said, modern malts are all highly modified, and as far as homebrewing goes a protein rest for under-modified malt is not usually necessary.  There could be other advantages to doing it, such as flavor or tradition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Malting and malts for brewing can be a very intricate and detailed subject, entire volumes of books have been written. For a gentle introduction, I highly recommend the book Malt from Brewers Publications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14448" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T05:33:19.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18919" CreationDate="2017-01-26T11:44:37.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The article you linked to states anything less than 78% extract dry basis fine grind (DBFG) is substandard or under modified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also this paragraph:&#xA;Grind difference (% FG/CG). The fine grind/coarse grind (FG/CG) difference indicates the modification of the malt, and maltsters often use it instead of the DBCG value; either can be readily calculated from the other if the DBFG value is listed. A &quot;steely&quot; or vitreous malt, one suitable only for a mash cycle that includes a protein rest, will have an FG/CG difference of 1.8-2.2%, while a mealy and well-modified malt eminently suited to infusion mashing will have an FG/CG difference of 0.5-1.0%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, most all malts are very well modified today and have been for decades. Under modified malts are a problem pre-dating advancements in malting chemistry. It is so much so the norm, that if a malt is under modified it is usually labelled specifically as under modified malt and you don't need to worry about searching spec sheets for some magic stat telling you what degree of modification it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T11:44:37.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18927" CreationDate="2017-01-26T16:51:06.780" Score="0" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering brewing indoors this weekend, instead of my usual outdoor process in warmer times of the year.  Since the last time I brewed indoors, I've replaced my kitchen sink's faucet with one to which I'm reluctant to try to attach the wort chiller (immersion - copper coil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pond pump for recirculating water through the chiller is in my future plans, but that's not going to happen before this upcoming brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a utility sink in the basement, and the hose reel is down there for winter storage anyway.  Could I hook up the hose in the basement and then run it up one level of stairs to my kitchen for the wort chiller?  There's no backflow preventer on the utility sink, could that cause problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6057" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T18:43:43.863" Title="Connecting the wort chiller to a sink on a lower level" Tags="|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18926" CreationDate="2017-01-26T17:40:41.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have sewer problems now, I don't see how you would run in to trouble.   It's pretty much like running your kitchen sink for 45 minutes.  Your water supply should be pressurized by your service provider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13332" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T17:40:41.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18926" CreationDate="2017-01-26T18:43:43.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't be a problem but I'd prepare in advance how I'd empty that hose once I am done.  Don't want to be dealing with that disaster as I am trying to deal with the wort at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible why not just bring the kettle down to the utility sink and hooking the chiller up down there may be a better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T18:43:43.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18956" CreationDate="2017-01-26T18:49:49.097" Score="4" ViewCount="10902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed the Brewer's Best Milk Stout, which uses LME plus lactose and maltodextrin. The original gravity was 1.060, which is within the specs for offered in the instructions. Now after about 1 month in secondary, the beer is is holding steady at 1.030, which is apparently too high (specs indicate 1.020 - 1.024). I'm nervous to bottle in case they will explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried adding some dry ale yeast (Safale US-05) to try and kick the fermentation on, and even added a little heat with a brief water bath, but after one week there is no change. Furthermore, the room im fermenting in ranges from about 65-70 degrees, so it seems unlikely to have become stuck from low temperature. Also, the beer tastes fine right now, but I don't have the experience to tell whether it's &quot;too sweet&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two potential issues come to mind. First, I spaced out and failed to add the lactose and maltodextrin to the boil -- they were added just before racking into the primary. Perhaps these non-fermentables didn't see as much conversion to fermentables as they might have? Second, I may not have used a temperature conversion for the original gravity, so perhaps the OG was actually higher than 1.060, and the 1.030 really is indicating a greater amount of non-fermentable sugar than I am expecting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do? I'm tempted to just bottle it, since my hunch is that the high FG indicates a lot of non-fermentables, but perhaps I should try adding some more yeast of some kind? What kind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14624" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T23:01:23.180" Title="specific gravity too high to bottle?" Tags="|bottling|stout|final-gravity|lactose|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18914" CreationDate="2017-01-26T20:08:45.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;water bath and aquarium heater, or buy jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10787" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T20:08:45.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18929" CreationDate="2017-01-26T22:13:12.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've done all that, I don't think you need to worry about bottle bombs. Lacto and malto are non-fermentable, long sugars which give this beer its body. And that is what is expected in this beer style.  I'd bottle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="3453" LastEditDate="2017-01-29T17:55:46.537" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T17:55:46.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18929" CreationDate="2017-01-27T03:30:32.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's staying the same, you are probably fine... But 1.030 is really high for a 1.060 beer so I'd keep an eye on it. That said, being .006 off of your expected gravity is not completely strange, esp. if your starting gravity was higher than you expected. I'd be more worried about it being too sweet than I would be about bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, a pound of sugar will add about .008 to your gravity reading for a five gallon batch. So if you put a pound of unfermentable sugar in there, you could expect your finishing gravity to be about .008 higher than it would be otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14588" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T03:30:32.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17758" CreationDate="2017-01-27T11:35:59.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most applications for the competition are done online these days.  When shipping your entries, here is how I do it:&#xA;First, find two boxes that nest inside each other.  Purchase a roll of bubble wrap, a box of &quot;snack&quot; size baggies and a good tape gun with quality packing tape.  Print your labels from the competition site when you register and cut them out. Keep your entries separate if shipping more than one entry.  Be sure to read he competition guidelines for shipping and make sure you have a good address to ship to.  To prepare your bottles for shipment, here is what I do...black out any identification markings on the cap, place your label inside the snack size baggie and seal it, fold over any excess and put a rubber band around the label.  Now tear off a length of bubble wrap about 18 inches long.  Roll each beer in the bubble wrap leaving an even amount of space on either end.  Tape the wrap in the middle, fold over the top and bottom and tape securely. Do this for each beer.  When you have them all wrapped, stack them together inside a good quality kitchen trash bag (in case one of them breaks or leaks) and seal the bag (tie it and tape it closed).  Place the bag with the bottles in the small box, placing paper or more bubble wrap around all sides (I usually save packing materials I receive from online orders in a big bag for this purpose). Be sure to place your entry sheet in with the beer before you close and seal the first box.  Put packing material on the bottom of the larger box.  Set the small box inside the larger one and put packing material (paper, bubble wrap, etc.) around all sides.  Then seal the box.  Label it with the shipping address. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get an account with UPS and fill out the shipping label online.  This way I avoid having to explain what is inside to shipping clerks.  I put the shipping label inside a large baggie and tape around the edges. Then all you have to do is drop it off at any place that accepts UPS shipments.  All you have to do is tell them its all ready to go and just give it to them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to get a UPS account, then you simply take the box to a shipping center of your choice for UPS or Fedex and give it to them.  They will weigh and measure it and ask you for an address.  When they ask what's inside, I usually tell them it is &quot;yeast samples double boxed&quot;.    When asked about insurance, I tell them &quot;less than $100&quot; so you don't have to pay extra.  And that's it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like a big pain, but I've never had any bottles break as far as I know.  The snack size baggie prevents your label from running or smearing when they put it in the cooler to get cold and then take it out where it may get a lot of condensation on the bottle, depending on the temperature and humidity inside the competition area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14627" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T11:35:59.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18929" CreationDate="2017-01-27T15:50:45.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is that with a higher ABV, you will loose the yeast that carbonates the beer.  The alcohol will kill your yeast for bottling.  I do not know if you can use CO2 for bottling but sugar will not carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12417" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T15:50:45.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18939" CreationDate="2017-01-27T16:35:27.987" Score="4" ViewCount="17904" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I planned my last batch (my 4th, so I'm pretty inexperienced) using Beersmith for a single hop IPA, I realised that the IBU I got from the recipe was way to low. So I adjusted the recipe and aimed for about 40IBUs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up with the following numbers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7g Simcoe (12.9%) 60min&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;30g Simcoe (12.9%) 30min&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;38g Simcoe (12.9%) 5min&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite some hops, but I didn't realize this at that moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the boil I saw that I was using the wrong profile in Beersmith and I so ended up with around &lt;strong&gt;62IBUs&lt;/strong&gt; for my 20 liter-ish batch. OG is 1.049 so it's on the lighter side and has therefore a IBU/SG ratio of 1.38.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The batch is currently sitting in the fermenter and after reading this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7310/any-way-to-rescue-an-overly-bitter-beer&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; I wonder what to do next. My options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dump it. Learn from it. Have a homebrew.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it ferment, dryhop &amp;amp; bottle it and hope that time will make things better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I don't have enough storage to make a similar brew and blend it with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, judging by the numbers, if that is possible, what would you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: 3 days into fermentation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried some of the beer today and I think it will turn out quite drinkable. The wort was very sweet and bitter, but now as there's some alcohol developing I like it more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the plan is to dryhop it next week (either with Simcoe, Citra or Galaxy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: 5 weeks after brewday&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dryhopped the beer with 50g Citra and it turned out quite well. It's on the bitter side, but it's not something that you should dump :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14629" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2020-11-18T21:23:12.927" Title="Beer way too bitter. What should I do?" Tags="|flavor|bitterness|bittering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18937" CreationDate="2017-01-27T16:41:14.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brew a less bitter batch and blend them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T16:41:14.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18937" CreationDate="2017-01-27T16:50:39.867" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advice that I give all new brewers is to taste what you have at every step.  Taste your grain, taste your runnings, taste your wort when it goes into the fermenter and, of course, taste it when you bottle or keg. As long as you used sanitary practices, you'll end up with beer, and most likely, better beer than you'll find at your local pub.  61 IBUs isn't, in an way, too many for an IPA.  My go to IPA recipe rings in at 89 IBUs and it's not ridiculously hoppy (I'm not a huge IPA fan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just bottle (or keg) it and enjoy it.  Some of the most worrisome mistakes lead us to really good things.  Just make sure that you made good notes in your brewer's notebook so that if you really like it, you can repeat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T16:50:39.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18937" CreationDate="2017-01-27T19:28:15.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your options are 1 and 2, then I guess try dryhopping it and see how that goes. As pointed out in the comments, that won't make it less bitter, but it might improve the beer. It won't add a ton of bitterness, dryhopping will mostly add aroma. Maybe try something like citra to add some dimension to the profile. While you cannot make the beer less bitter this way, you might make it better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if you really don't like how it tastes now, then I wouldn't bother trying to save it. I still wouldn't throw it out though. Bottle it and see how it turns out. Unless the beer is spoiled I would not recommend throwing out a beer without seeing how it matures. You can learn a lot from how the flavor develops, and you already did most of the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T19:28:15.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18937" CreationDate="2017-01-28T06:53:47.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't dry hop. Bottle and leave for 6-9 months,or more. The bitterness will decrease noticeably with time. A beer considered much to &quot;bitter&quot; or &quot;hop tangy&quot; will be quite mild and enjoyable after one year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer must be drunk or thrown then try adding some non fermentable sweetener like lactose or stevia to a test pint. Some times the sourness/bitterness of the hop can be balanced against a sweetness, usually from the malt.&quot;Sweet and sour&quot; tastes are quiet appealing on the tongue so maybe its possible to repeat the trick with the bitterness of the beer. One might try adding malt extract as the obvious sweetener but further fermentation might alter the taste again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: If one doesn't have enough glass bottles then it is better to use plastic carbonated drink bottles then discarding the brew. Plastic isn't good for very long term storage but it will allow conditioning of beer for 6 months without too much loss of pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-01-28T16:20:32.117" LastActivityDate="2017-01-28T16:20:32.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18950" CreationDate="2017-01-28T23:52:56.973" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a recipe for a 1-gallon, all-grain rye ale that calls to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Mash in with 1 gallon of water (1.3qts/lb)&#xA;2. Rest 152F for 60 minutes&#xA;3. Sparge with 1.5 gal water at 167F&#xA;4. Collect 2 gal wort and bring to boil&#xA;5. ... and so on ...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does it say to collect only 2 gallons of the wort? Why would I dispose of some wort? Also, 1 gallon seems to much, given that I have 2.8 lbs of grain ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14624" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T23:01:55.417" Title="recipe confusing -- boil only some of the wort?" Tags="|boil|wort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13329" CreationDate="2017-01-29T01:21:01.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 14&quot;x14&quot;x14&quot; box will hold 25 12-oz/330-ml bottles (a case plus one) and won't go over the checked-baggage weight limit.  Buy one, plus some bubble wrap (a foot-wide roll with the small bubbles), gallon zip-lock bags, and strapping tape.  Bag each bottle and wrap it in two squares of bubble wrap.  Place five bottles in the bottom of the box, with the necks alternating between facing one way and facing the other way.  Place the next layer in the box, rotated 90 degrees from the first.  Repeat until the box is full and tape shut.  When you check the box, make sure some &quot;Fragile&quot; stickers get applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've brought several cases' worth of beer home this way with no breakage.  If a bottle should break, the bag should contain it and keep the box from disintegrating.  If you're feeling really paranoid, line the box with a trash bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14636" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T01:21:01.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-29T10:21:28.473" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;IIRC Malted barley is barley that has been sprouted then dried to release the amylase enzymes. The amylase enzymes are required to convert the grain starch to fermentable sugars. That is the main process taking place in the mash tun at 66C (or so). The enzyme, previously released by malting, is allowed to act on the grain starch in solution and the conversion proceeds over the course of one hour (or so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: What would be the &quot;technical difference&quot; between 1-producing a wort  using malted lager/pilsner barley in a &quot;standard mashing process&quot; (as described above) and 2-using raw (non malted) barley in the mash tun and adding amylase enzyme - such as &quot;pilsner enzyme&quot; and - and leaving it for a similar time. Would (or could) the two worts produced in these two ways produce a similar lager/pilsner after fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I ask because corn syrup is not made from &quot;malted&quot; maize grain but from mixing/heating maize mash with amylase enzymes on a industrial scale. As the process is almost the same as mashing, I was wondering if a similar process could be used with &quot;raw&quot; barley to produce beer wort without the malting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T16:49:39.957" Title="Esoteric question about mashing/saccharification technique" Tags="|wort|mashing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18947" CreationDate="2017-01-29T11:07:12.560" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke up the wyeast American ale pack, but I can not make beer today, how long can I wait before the yeast die? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14632" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T13:28:21.840" Title="Yeast conservation after broken packaging" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18946" CreationDate="2017-01-29T13:28:21.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast don't die for many months - some would say years. If you keep the re-sealed pack in the fridge it will be good for some weeks yet and with a little care will be good for some months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T13:28:21.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18945" CreationDate="2017-01-29T16:49:39.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, they would taste very different.  Malting not only activates enzymes, the kilning changes the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T16:49:39.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18937" CreationDate="2017-01-29T17:06:41.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As has been mentioned before: a predicted IBU of 62 really isn't anything to worry about for an IPA. BJCP 2015[1] lists the range of IBU for American IPA as 40-70. Depending on the yeast, specifically its attenuation your beer might end up a little unbalanced due to your low OG. Again, BJCP 2015 specifies 1.056-1.070 for American IPA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coincidentally, there has been some findings suggesting that dry hopping a very bitter beer actually removes some of the perceived bitterness by absorbing isomerized alpha acids into the leaf material. Scott Janish[2] has a good summary of the article in question, which found that for beers with IBUs greater than 30, dry hopping decreases the bitterness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, I would suggest that you add a large dose of dry hops to try to scrub some of the iso-alpha-acids out of solution if you are really worried about it being overly bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources:&#xA;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2015_Guidelines_Beer.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2015_Guidelines_Beer.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;http://scottjanish.com/dry-hopping-effect-bitterness-ibu-testing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://scottjanish.com/dry-hopping-effect-bitterness-ibu-testing/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T17:06:41.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18942" CreationDate="2017-01-30T02:37:33.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;2.8 lbs of milled grain will absorb approximately .34 gallons of water, so if the authors mash tun has .16 gallons of deadspace that would explain 2.5 gallons total water going into the mash tun, and 2 gallons of wort coming out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is still a confusing detail. Your recipe lists the mash thickness as 1.3 quarts per pound.  The problem with that is 1.0 gallons (4 quarts) into 2.8 lbs of grain is 1.43 quarts per pound.  To get 1.3 quarts per pound as stated then either you need 3.08 lbs of grain and 1 gallon of water, or with 2.8 lbs of grain it requires only .91 gallons of water.  You are right to be confused!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't answer why the recipe seems to contradict itself, but I will say don't throw away wort.  You should collect all the wort until you have completed sparging, and you'll probably collect somewhere between 2 and 2.25 gallons using the volumes in your recipe on a typical system.  Technically, since the recipe doesn't use significant figures, e.g.) &quot;2 gallons&quot; could be anything from 1.5 to 2.49 approximated, so thats right in the ballpark.  I'm sure you'll end up with a great beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14448" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T02:37:33.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-30T09:22:30.530" Score="4" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day to everyone in here! This is my first post and I'm a newbie in here , and I would like to ask you guys if I can use non alcoholic beer ( near beer) as my wort + brewer yeast ( not bread yeast) to get %5-6 ABV ? The reason is because in where I'm living its almost impossible to get malt extract and the only barely malt extract I found in one market it costs 50$ per 1 LBs which is very expensive , that's why I'm wondering if I can use the near beer as a substitute, thanks a lot and best regards! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14642" LastEditorUserId="14629" LastEditDate="2017-01-31T17:36:41.340" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T10:33:02.233" Title="is it possible to use near beer as my wort and add brewers yeast to have beer with %5-6 ABV?" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18951" CreationDate="2017-01-30T11:52:54.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing to ferment in near beer. It is not a sweet malty beverage normally.  Adding yeast to it won't give you anymore alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could add sugar or some other malt beverage (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malta_(soft_drink)&quot;&gt;Malta-Goya&lt;/a&gt;) and ferment that but, this isn't going to generate a beer in the sense that you are thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps wine or mead making is better suited to your area as those starting materials are often a bit more universal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T11:52:54.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18951" CreationDate="2017-01-30T14:37:27.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always try making &quot;syntha-beer&quot;. Alcohol and carbon dioxide come from fermenting sugars (like glucose or sucrose) . Sugars are usually relatively easy to obtain. So fermenting a solution of sugar with yeast will yeild a base fizzy alcoholic brew. If you want to make it more &quot;malty&quot; try adding &quot;ovalteen&quot; malt drink powder. If you want to make it &quot;thicker&quot; with more turbidity then use maltodextrin (commonly available as a body building additive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next comes flavouring and colouring which usually comes from hops and some aspect of roast grain. Presuming one can obtain hops, it is simplest to boil them in water to make &quot;hop tea&quot; and strain that into the brew. The next thing is to find some roast grain like a crystal, chocolate or roast malt. Dark roast barley is sometimes sold as an alternative to decaf coffee. If all else fails use raw barley grains or raw wheat grains and roast them on a tray in an oven until they turn brown to the desired degree. Crack/crush the roast grain, steep in boiled water for (say) 30 mins and strain the brown liquid into your fermentation bin with the sugars, maltodextrin and hop tea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might not be the same as a pint of &quot;Courage Best&quot; but in a hot country far from the homebrew shop - served cold and fizzy it can taste like nectar - and gives a cracking hangover!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-01-31T07:47:12.383" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T07:47:12.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-30T14:39:04.517" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put together my first batch of beer, and it has been fermenting for about 11 days. For the most part I think everything is going quite well although I have been keeping the beer in a room that is less than optimal (temperature is 55 degrees or so). Taking all of this into consideration what is the minimum amount of time for fermenting beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14643" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-01-30T21:22:09.280" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T21:22:09.280" Title="Fermentation process?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18954" CreationDate="2017-01-30T14:45:42.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It varies per batch. Typically, it's around 14 days. The only way to know for sure, however, is to take hydrometer readings. Take a reading today and a couple days later. Once the values stop dropping, fermentation is done. Also, the colder the fermentation temp, the slower the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastEditorUserId="13998" LastEditDate="2017-01-30T14:52:39.920" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T14:52:39.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18929" CreationDate="2017-01-30T14:59:25.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can tell you from experience that a high FG &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; end up causing bottle bombs. My last batch had an FG of 1.020, down from an OG of 1.064. I let the beer sit in primary for a few weeks, but the FG stayed steady. Even after transferring to secondary, the FG held at 1.020, so I assumed the beer had finished. I bottled with less than the usual amount of priming sugar, and within three weeks, I had bottle bombs and gushers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hypothesis is that the priming sugar gave whatever yeast was in the bottles enough of a kick to restart fermentation in the bottle; the yeast then consumed the remaining sugars in the beer, which sent the carbonation much higher than it would have been with just priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume that something as high as 1.030 is an indication of a stuck fermentation, and that you should try unsticking it: swirl the beer to add some oxygen, raise the temperature, pitch more yeast, etc. In my case, I was off by 0.010, which is a bit more than the 0.060 you missed by. Personally, I would err on the side of caution - bottle bombs are extremely dangerous. I've had one explode by my face; it's not something you want happening to you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14298" LastEditorUserId="14298" LastEditDate="2017-01-30T15:04:28.540" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T15:04:28.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18954" CreationDate="2017-01-30T15:17:09.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A minimum time to ferment is a difficult question to answer as there is no absolute cut off point as regards fermentation. For example, cask or bottle conditioning of a brew is a continuation of fermentation over many weeks or months - and often by things other than sacchromyces yeast. A &quot;better&quot; question is probably &quot;when do I know that primary fermentation has finished&quot; although acknowledging the above comment it can be said that it never finishes. I suspect that what &quot;finished fermenting&quot; really means is that if the brew were bottled at that point, the bottles would not become &quot;bottle bombs&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the practical answer to &quot;how do I know it has finished fermenting&quot; is to measure the specific gravity of the brew over a few consecutive days. When the reading is static over two or even three days then the primary fermentation has &quot;finished&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have brewed using a hydrometer but over the years I have come to the conclusion that at &quot;room temperature&quot; (eg 16C-22C) a brew will ferment out in 14 days. I often pour the beer off the lees/trub at 10 days, leave it again for 4 days or so then mix in priming sugar and bottle. At lower temperature (eg 8C-14C) I will often leave the brew for 3 weeks in the primary fermentation vessel before pouring off the lees/trub and leaving to settle for another week before bottling. A lager can be left in the bin for 3 months before bottling and is the better for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conditioning (anaerobic fermentation in the bottle) of the brew should be considered. A bottle of beer is, IMHO, not ready before one month in the bottle. And most improve over 6 months. Only very aromatic hoppy beers should be drunk earlier rather than later and that is only because the hop aroma and flavour mellows a lot over time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T15:17:09.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-30T23:31:16.733" Score="6" ViewCount="4610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there's any way to kill the preservatives in store bought juice. I was thinking about boiling it at high temperature for like 5 minutes, but not sure if it'll work. If anybody has a solution, I'd sure love to hear it ! A friend of mine makes mash out of store bought juice, but won't tell me how he does it to kill off the preservatives. &quot;TRADE SECRET&quot;, he says.......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14646" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2017-01-31T12:25:39.347" LastActivityDate="2022-12-12T15:38:35.893" Title="Killing off preservatives in store bought juice" Tags="|fermentation|recipe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-31T06:39:52.920" Score="1" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just brewed my first batch of beer and after reading the booster pack ingredients to add to the Cooper's tin I see there is mainly corn syrup as an ingredient, I would like to use a healthier alternative such as organic raw sugar, is this possible? Or could someone please advise me on other sugars to use. Much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14649" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T15:37:12.870" Title="Alternatives to corn syrup sugar" Tags="|sugar|corn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18958" CreationDate="2017-01-31T07:28:16.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some pasteurised juices don't contain preservatives. In Europe for example the budget supermarkets ALDI and LIDL stock pasteurised apple and grape juice that is not from concentrate and contains no preservatives. They ferment very well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sulphites, sorbates and benzoates and similar preservatives generally interfere with yeast growth. So fruit juices that contain these preservatives can be fermented by the addition of fully active and concentrated yeast cultures. The yeast does not need to &quot;grow&quot; just ferment - so introducing all the live yeast needed in one go will usually work. Its not ideal but it does work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T07:28:16.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18959" CreationDate="2017-01-31T07:45:14.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Corn syrup (glucose solution) is a perfectly adequate and &quot;healthy&quot; addition for brewing purposes. If one didn't want to use corn syrup then one could use dried glucose (brewers sugar) or dried sucrose(table sugar) or liquid invert sugar (golden syrup). One can use candied sugar and any form of &quot;organic&quot; raw sugar  or even molasses/treacle - but be warned the final taste may change.  Or one could just use more malt extract which is mostly maltose and malto-dextrins. Using a can of Coopers malt extract would be perfect and one could forego the &quot;more refined&quot; sugars altogether. The sugar is only used because it is cheap and plentiful and beer needs something like 3Kg of carbs per 24l/5gal - and the usual Coopers kit tin contains 1.7Kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-01-31T16:29:35.923" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T16:29:35.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-31T11:21:03.973" Score="1" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d2kbD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i am going to use this jar which is the only available malt in the markets , and because its a bit pricey as i mentioned in my last post in decided to get only one .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and i would like to know if there is a &quot;trick&quot; to increase the quantity of liters by adding in the wort stuff like ( Maple syrup , Dates Molasses , Honey ..etc) ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i might sound silly to you guys so excause me for that i am just a newbie in here ! lol .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks a lot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14642" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T12:22:32.127" Title="how many liters/gallons of beer i can make out of 1 LBS of barely malt syrup ?" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18962" CreationDate="2017-01-31T11:34:51.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/malt-extract-and-beer-kits/how-much-extract-to-use&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/malt-extract-and-beer-kits/how-much-extract-to-use&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One pound of malt extract (if that is what that is) to one gallon of water to make a light bodied beer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14627" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T11:34:51.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18962" CreationDate="2017-01-31T12:22:32.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One pound of liquid malt extract in one gallon of water will typically yield a 1.037 gravity wort.  How well it will ferment is hard to gauge.  I'd recommend putting it into a gallon and a half of water, rinse it out really well with the warm water in the pot.  Then boil it down to 1 gallon with some hops, measure the gravity and ferment it.  If it ferments out all the way then you are in good shape for one gallon beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make it stronger by adding other fermentable sugars: honey, sugar etc etc.  I'd personally not go more than 20% of the total fermentables being added as pure sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T12:22:32.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18973" CreationDate="2017-01-31T18:46:51.037" Score="8" ViewCount="7704" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first post so I hope I haven't asked anything silly. Can I mix a high alcohol (attenuation?) yeast (for low final sugar and specific gravity) and a yeast that produces more &quot;fruity esters&quot; (like a ale yeast) together into my beer wort. I want to make a dry but more full flavored beer and I wondered if that might help do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-22T11:06:56.407" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T16:31:08.033" Title="Can I mix two yeasts to add different flavours when I make beer?" Tags="|yeast|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18966" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-31T19:41:17.507" Score="3" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;Especially if I am extra brewing, and making a lower gravity beer, the ingredients  (cara, crystal) that add mouthfeel and head retention also add too much sweetness.  Thinking of a low gravity Belgium style  (Blonde, Patersbier, etc), but this could be a problem for other styles too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14652" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T22:58:58.767" Title="How do I get head retention in dry beer?" Tags="|head|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18966" CreationDate="2017-01-31T22:12:52.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could probably sub in a bit of some sort of sugar for malt extract and still get beer dry enough for your taste while using steeping grain. Additionally, using wheat malt extract could up your head retention w/o resulting in a sweeter beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a variety of heading agents available at homebrew supplies if you get really desperate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14588" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T22:12:52.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18966" CreationDate="2017-01-31T22:14:01.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a problem at all, you will find most crystal malts are actually foam negative. With simple pale malts you should be able to get good head retention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further information on the subject don't listen to me listen to the pope of foam himself Dr. Charles Bamforth. &lt;a href=&quot;https://beersmith.com/blog/2011/09/28/head-retention-with-the-pope-of-foam-beersmith-podcast-23/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Head retention with the pope of foam.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T22:14:01.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18966" CreationDate="2017-01-31T22:58:58.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Duvel is nothing but pils malt and sugar and has foam that most brewers would kill for.  A lot of it is related to fermentation processes....&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/article/indices/35-head-retention/697-getting-good-beer-foam-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/stories/article/indices/35-head-retention/697-getting-good-beer-foam-techniques&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T22:58:58.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18982" CreationDate="2017-02-01T02:04:53.560" Score="4" ViewCount="1511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a better solution for cleaning. Some of my equipment is home from copper which limits agents I can use.  Currently my strategy is using barkeepers friend on all external surfaces such as my sparge arm and mash tun internals, and of course the inside of the kettles.  Once everything is visibly clean I make a 5 gallon mixture of starsan, and circulate it through all my equipment. For the most part this works on everything except my chiller.  I can't really clean the internals of my sparge arm and mash tun filter system but I don't have too much trouble with these and don't worry too much since its before the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use home made reverse flow tube in tube chiller. Scrubbing surfaces is not an option.  Neither is not using it, because it works really well.  The problem is that cleaning is difficult.  Right now, all I do is a hot star san flush.  Can someone recommend a good aqueous cleaning solution that is cheap and copper safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found some solutions here &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7011/cleaning-copper&quot;&gt;cleaning copper&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;but I don't think they will work in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used NaOH in very small tinctures?  Instinct says this is a very bad idea, but I happen to have a lot of pure NaOH (long story) and I don't do much with it these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12902" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:01.200" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T00:16:06.123" Title="Safe but effective cleaning solvent for copper" Tags="|cleaning|copper|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18970" CreationDate="2017-02-01T08:31:32.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dilute (eg 10%), warm NaOH solution can be used to clean &quot;organic material&quot; from copper usually by soaking/submerging for a short time. Handle with care  Do not spill the NaOH nor &quot;splash&quot; the solution. Be cautious if &quot;scrubbing&quot;. Wear safety glasses or goggles- and  rubber gloves!. Stronger solutions can be used but don't add too much caustic soda or the solution (and coils themselves) can become more dangerous to handle. Rinse well. Some recommend using a dilute acid (like spirit vinegar or citric acid) to rinse first, but I think that is paranoia. Just be sure to rinse the cooling coils VERY WELL.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper can also been cleaned from surface oxidation by soaking/submerging in some spirit/clear vinegar and salt solution for some minutes. A litre of vinegar with  dessert spoon of salt is the rough proportion but it does not need to be exact. This makes the copper &quot;bright&quot; again for a short while. The usual problem with this is finding enough clear/spirit vinegar to soak a cooling coil in! However the vinegar/salt solution can be made up, saved and reused a number of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-02-01T15:29:35.563" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T15:29:35.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18965" CreationDate="2017-02-01T15:14:21.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;--edit--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others have apparently used multiple yeasts without any difficulty and have achieved the desired affect, so my answer below is apparently wrong.  I'm leaving it here because it offers some alternatives which I have had success with.  Both blending and fortifying beer can produce drafts which are strong in both flavor and proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--end-of-edit--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that will work as you expect it too.  The high alcohol tolerant yeast will quickly drive down the specific gravity to an alcohol level that only they can survive, leaving your ester produces to perish and settle down into the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably get the effect that you want by splitting your wort and giving each yeast exclusive access to half.  Then after all fermenting is done, (or better yet after each half has aged and mellowed,) you can blend the two finished beers in different proportions until you find a mix that you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To simplify the process, you could always just brew your beer for the flavors you like and then mix in some brandy (or whatever hot liquor you prefer) to give it a stronger kick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastEditorUserId="8464" LastEditDate="2017-02-01T20:38:25.803" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T20:38:25.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18965" CreationDate="2017-02-01T16:32:20.247" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can work very nicely from my experience, I often use S-04 and US-05. The S-04 gives esters as you suspect and the US-05 gives a higher attenuation and a thinner body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of esters are generated during the first 3 days of fermentation and the major difference of a high attenuation yeast will not really be apparent until the later than this when the ABV get &gt;5% or most of the mono/di-saccharides have been consumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has worked well for me exactly as you suspected it might, from 25l batches up to 800l batches. I use other combinations of yeasts to get other flavour profiles. The highest number of yeasts I have used in a single brew is 5, 2 standard brewing yeasts, 3 Brettanomyces and we had some lacto in there as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy layering the yeast flavours!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T16:32:20.247" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18965" CreationDate="2017-02-01T16:51:26.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do it, but there's no way to control which will dominate so it's a crapshoot with hard to predict results.  I prefer to go another way... split the batch and ferment each half with a different yeast.  Then blend post fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2017-02-01T20:44:01.457" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T20:44:01.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18983" CreationDate="2017-02-01T18:19:25.343" Score="3" ViewCount="13054" Body="&lt;p&gt;After week 2 my double IPA is still fermenting and has a healthy yeast cap of about 1 inch. Should I leave it be or stir it into the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gravity is 1.019, near to what I'm expecting the final to be (1.010). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It smells so good. I will, but can't wait til it's finished.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw I used Safale US-05, extra pale DME, brewing sugar, citra and tap water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14653" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T08:25:06.893" Title="Should I stir the fermentation?" Tags="|beer|yeast|ale|pale|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-01T20:08:36.287" Score="1" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought two jars of rice malt syrup today and I am looking for a beer recipe I can use it in.  I am thinking of mixing it with hops and molasses.  Does that make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14642" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-04-06T23:07:10.533" LastActivityDate="2017-04-06T23:07:10.533" Title="Incorporating Japanese rice malt into a beer recipe?" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18975" CreationDate="2017-02-01T20:15:00.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has the yeast settled to the bottom? I'd let that happen rather than stir it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T20:15:00.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18975" CreationDate="2017-02-01T20:30:37.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stirring won't hurt it. US-05 is not generally problematically flocculent so you shouldn't have to though. If there is still a cap of kraeusen on your beer, it's still fermenting so I'd probably leave it alone myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two weeks is a long time for fermentation to finish out. If you are near the bottom of the yeasts temp range, I'd suggest moving the fermenter to a warmer place if you want to do something to get it to finish out a bit quicker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14588" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T20:30:37.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18874" CreationDate="2017-02-01T22:36:39.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just browsing Facebook when I noticed a friend had shared an image of a beer they were drinking - Buxton v Omnipollo: The Original Ice Cream Pale Ale. Had a scout around and wile unable to find a clone recipe, I did see some indication that to get the flavour, their beer is conditioned on one vanilla bean per litre of beer. Maybe check &lt;a href=&quot;https://honestbrew.co.uk/shop/buxton-v-omnipollo-ice-cream-pale/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; out and see for yourself. Could always play around with an American Pale Ale recipe and the vanilla beans for yourself....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I didn't realise vanilla beans are technically the entire long vanilla pod... that's a lot of vanilla and 23 of those in a 5 gallon batch would certainly impart flavour!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FX1xf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FX1xf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastEditorUserId="14585" LastEditDate="2017-02-02T08:18:42.403" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T08:18:42.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18900" CreationDate="2017-02-02T02:35:26.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIK one of those puts out a lot of heat.  You could also consider a Fermwrap heater, which goes on sale once or twice a year for $10 or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14656" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T02:35:26.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18976" CreationDate="2017-02-02T08:04:25.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rice malt extract is nice - it usually has all the properties of barley malt extract, except different, much lighter maltiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this lack of heavier malt flavors, it's great to showcase hop flavor and taste. Take any extract recipe for hoppy ale, for example AIPA, and substitute some of barley malt extract for your rice malt extract. And that's pretty much it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not add molasses. It has strong, un-beery taste and is only good as an adjunct for some styles. As a main taste and aroma? I strongly discourage it now. Try adding some to belgian dark strong ale, or to stouts, see the effect, and only use it as a main taste / aroma ingredient when you know how it works and no longer need to ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T08:04:25.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18970" CreationDate="2017-02-02T10:56:40.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;PBW was originally designed to clean a copper &quot;waterfall&quot; chiller device at Coors. It is more safe than caustics and other harsher chemicals both for the copper and you. Also I believe starsan denatures at 80° or 85°C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14658" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T10:56:40.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18975" CreationDate="2017-02-02T11:52:47.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two weeks doesn't seem like an inordinately long time for a true double IPA.  Also depending on the OG 1.019 might be the bottom.  As this was an extract beer I'd be surprised to see a double IPA go to 1.010; unless this is something you've brewed before and gotten to that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say warm it up to 70-72F and give it another week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stirring, IMO, is a bad idea as it will introduce some oxygen.  While that might be great for the yeast it might be bad for the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind sacrificing some beer for you own education.  Pull off on gallon and split it into two sanitized containers.  To one go ahead and swirl it, get some oxygen into it.  Let it ferment another week and see if it goes lower than 1.019.  That will show you the effect of more O2 in the beer.&#xA;In the second half gallon, add a half packet of dried yeast and swirl the thing every couple days for a week keeping it as warm as possible. This is known as a forced fermentation test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next week check the gravity of the two half gallon samples and the main batch.  If the sample with the extra yeast has fermented down then you know there is still fermentables in there that CAN be fermented out.  Hopefully the main batch will have moved along some too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T11:52:47.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19015" CreationDate="2017-02-03T09:17:26.350" Score="2" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking into fermentation temperature control and came across BrewPi. Even though I live in Southern California, I'd like to be able to keep some brews at optimal temperature -- the house does get somewhat cold during the winter. Relatively, at least ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://diybrewpi.wikia.com/wiki/DIYBrewPi_Wikia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this BrewPi setup&lt;/a&gt; with a Fermwrap &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; a fermentation chamber? I can probably put it into a small room where heat loss will be minimal. I already have a kegerator, so having another similar contraption isn't feasible right now in terms of space or appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12524" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T17:40:18.690" Title="Can I use BrewPi and Fermwrap without a chamber?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|temperature|temperature-control|fermwrap|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18984" CreationDate="2017-02-03T11:39:55.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suer you can do this.  You don't need a chamber but you do need some insulation.  Just wrap the fermentor in a couple heavy towels or an old blanket or something.  I live in the northeast. I would lager in the winter time but putting my fermentor in a plastic bin lined with old beach towels.  Then I'd cover the thing with an old towel.  The heater did fine keep the beer at the right temp.  No need for a fancy chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T11:39:55.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18965" CreationDate="2017-02-03T13:18:55.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with other answers that it might be difficult to gauge the fermentation rate or metabolic requirements of one strain of yeast against the other. However that would not make the proposed idea of mixing yeasts unusable. It would just make the idea indeterminate until the process was better understood from experience. If one can overcome the learning curve then there may well be a valuable discovery at the end. But one wouldn't know until one has tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I note that other advice is to split the batch into the correct ratios and ferment each separately. That is quite reasonable however the batch fermented with a low attenuation yeast would add sweetness back into the final mix. I accept the mixed ales might further ferment and become less sweet, if so - perfect! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As splitting a batch can be a problem, there is an alternative approach - the successive pitching of the different yeasts. I would suggest first pitching the lower attenuating but higher flavour yeast. Give it unfettered access to ferment the wort. One might even try a sample to see how the taste is progressing. When the yeast has done its job or reached its limit (or whatever test) one can then pitch in the higher attenuating yeast to complete the job of fermenting remaining sugars. One could in effect &quot;time split&quot; and not &quot;bulk split&quot; the fermentation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the only downside to this approach is that the second pitching of yeast might need some aeration to provide oxygen for the second batch to grow. One could rouse and &quot;aerate the brew&quot; by vigorous stirring. Another option is to grow the yeast to sufficient quantity in a (smaller) separate vessel, aerating as needed over a day or so. When ready, pitch the whole load to complete the job in the anaerobic conditions in the main brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How one might approach mixing more than these two &quot;obvious&quot; types of yeast I don't know. One could only do it a few times and see if it yielded useful result. Good luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T13:18:55.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-03T15:58:51.167" Score="3" ViewCount="1800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a milk stout from an LME kit, which I racked into a secondary on New Year's Day. After 2 weeks of no fermentation, I checked the final gravity, and found it rested at 0.030, which was too high (target between 0.024 and 0.020), despite an OG that was spot on. I warmed it up a little, gave it a swirl, and added a small amount of dry ale yeast. One week later it was bubbling away again, which has just come to a stop about this morning, just over 1 month after I initially racked it. I have tested it just now showing an FG of around 0.020 -- so it's finally done!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether, I should re-rack into a secondary for a couple of weeks, now that it's finally finished fermenting. I would transfer it to a bucket, clean out the yeast and sediment that's lining the bottom of the carboy, then rack it back in there. Presently, it tastes just fine, and is pretty clear, so expect it would be fine to just go ahead and bottle, but I wonder whether it would be wise to let it sit a while off the yeast that has now accumulated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14624" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T17:09:43.973" Title="should i re-rack my beer?" Tags="|fermentation|bottle-conditioning|secondary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18987" CreationDate="2017-02-03T17:09:43.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people these days do not use secondary.  It is not necessary and usually not recommended....Here's what John Palmer had to say....&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=15108.msg191642#msg191642&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=15108.msg191642#msg191642&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;When and why would you need to use a secondary fermenter? First some background – I used to recommend racking a beer to a secondary fermenter. My recommendation was based on the premise that (20 years ago) larger (higher gravity) beers took longer to ferment completely, and that getting the beer off the yeast reduced the risk of yeast autolysis (ie., meaty or rubbery off-flavors) and it allowed more time for flocculation and clarification, reducing the amount of yeast and trub carryover to the bottle. Twenty years ago, a homebrewed beer typically had better flavor, or perhaps less risk of off-flavors, if it was racked off the trub and clarified before bottling. Today that is not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The risk inherent to any beer transfer, whether it is fermenter-to-fermenter or fermenter-to-bottles, is oxidation and staling. Any oxygen exposure after fermentation will lead to staling, and the more exposure, and the warmer the storage temperature, the faster the beer will go stale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racking to a secondary fermenter used to be recommended because staling was simply a fact of life – like death and taxes. But the risk of autolysis was real and worth avoiding – like cholera. In other words, you know you are going to die eventually, but death by cholera is worth avoiding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then modern medicine appeared, or in our case, better yeast and better yeast-handling information. Suddenly, death by autolysis is rare for a beer because of two factors: the freshness and health of the yeast being pitched has drastically improved, and proper pitching rates are better understood. The yeast no longer drop dead and burst like Mr. Creosote from Monty Python’s The Meaning of Life when fermentation is complete – they are able to hibernate and wait for the next fermentation to come around. The beer has time to clarify in the primary fermenter without generating off-flavors. With autolysis no longer a concern, staling becomes the main problem. The shelf life of a beer can be greatly enhanced by avoiding oxygen exposure and storing the beer cold (after it has had time to carbonate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I, and Jamil and White Labs and Wyeast Labs, do not recommend racking to a secondary fermenter for ANY ale, except when conducting an actual second fermentation, such as adding fruit or souring. Racking to prevent autolysis is not necessary, and therefore the risk of oxidation is completely avoidable. Even lagers do not require racking to a second fermenter before lagering. With the right pitching rate, using fresh healthy yeast, and proper aeration of the wort prior to pitching, the fermentation of the beer will be complete within 3-8 days (bigger = longer). This time period includes the secondary or conditioning phase of fermentation when the yeast clean up acetaldehyde and diacetyl. The real purpose of lagering a beer is to use the colder temperatures to encourage the yeast to flocculate and promote the precipitation and sedimentation of microparticles and haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the new rule of thumb: don’t rack a beer to a secondary, ever, unless you are going to conduct a secondary fermentation.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T17:09:43.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-04T10:33:59.333" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;i am just wondering if i have .. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1 KG of DME &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2 KG ( rice malt syrup )&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how many liters of beer i can make out of them if i wanted to make a good full bodied beer ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks !&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVBgI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QYIE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14642" LastEditorUserId="14642" LastEditDate="2017-02-04T11:30:34.240" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T11:47:44.233" Title="Wondering what the overall quantity of beer will be ..?" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18991" CreationDate="2017-02-04T13:08:26.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick check and you should get 1048 if you drop it all in a 5gallon about 25l batch. Would seem a reasonable gravity. Please report back on how it brews up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T11:47:44.233" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T11:47:44.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18995" CreationDate="2017-02-06T01:24:00.177" Score="3" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time doing any home brewing. I'm using a Mr. Beer kit my parents got me. It has been fermenting for 3 weeks. So I tasted it yesterday and it still has a slightly sweet taste, which I don't mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it ok to bottle at that point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14669" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T01:16:49.397" Title="Is it ok to bottle fermenting beer when it is slightly semi sweet?" Tags="|fermentation|beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18994" CreationDate="2017-02-06T01:30:58.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hope you're having fun! Did you happen to get a hydrometer reading before fermenting? Three weeks should be enough, but a hydrometer reading can determine it for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T01:30:58.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18994" CreationDate="2017-02-06T11:29:42.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the brew has spent three weeks in a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; cold place one can usually say that primary fermentation has been completed in that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;14 days at &quot;room temperature&quot; or slightly below is sufficient for most fermentation to complete. IMHO the beer is ready to be primed and bottled. It will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be ready to drink &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; 14 days and will need about 7 of those days at room temperature to carbonate correctly. The beer will improve by standing at least a month in the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically speaking, primary fermentation is deemed to have finished when the specific gravity reading is the same for two days in a row. Although I usually allow 3 days - whats the rush!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-02-07T17:47:57.687" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T17:47:57.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19000" CreationDate="2017-02-06T12:58:13.517" Score="5" ViewCount="2649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my first brew now in the primary and fermenting away for approaching 48 hours now.  I plan to leave it there for 3 weeks rather than risk amateur mistakes for the small benefits secondary offers (if any).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm starting to second guess bottling methods that I will use.  The brewing kit I bought (the bucket etc. not ingredients) came with 40 PET bottles and lids.  I've been reading that while perfectly suitable, they do not lend themselves to long shelf lives - some people seem to be saying 2 months at room temp at best before a noticeable oxidation takes place or max 6 months in the fridge.  Is this right? Not sure I'm going to get through 5 gallons that quick so if this is true, I may think about investing in glass and crown caps before bottling day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I don't have a fridge big enough to stand 40 bottles upright.  I'm assuming that laid flat is fine (after allowing conditioning at room temp for a while) provided the beer gets a good bit of time upright to settle before opening and pouring to leave any small amounts of sediment in the bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T14:24:51.303" Title="PET Bottle shelf life" Tags="|bottling|bottle-conditioning|bottles|plastic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18997" CreationDate="2017-02-06T13:20:32.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its your first brew; I wouldn't worry about it. It will get consumed fairly quickly.  Certainly before an big bad PET issues arise...if you believe in that sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about putting the whole batch in the fridge either.  Just put in what you can and replace them with other bottles as you have space.  It is recommended to put them upright.  You want the yeast sediment at the bottom of the bottle as it makes for clearer beer when you pour them into a glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T13:20:32.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-06T18:25:07.507" Score="3" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I searched the questions and did not find an answer to my particular question.  As the title says, my question is: What effect do water ions have on mash efficiency &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; than adjusting Ph?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way, do ions like Calcium, sulfate, carbonate, magnesium, etc. have a direct impact on mash efficiency or is their role limited to adjusting Ph?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back story:  Brewed on Sunday for the first time with reverse osmosis water, which has virtually no water ions and a Ph of 7.  I used a buffering solution to adjust Ph to 5.2, confirmed with a digital Ph meter.  Other than that, I did not add back those ions until the boil phase.  My efficiency was horrible.  I think it was because I was also using new grain bags that were too tight, but I'm curious whether I should add the salts BEFORE the mash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you,&#xA;Sean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14673" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:03:56.230" Title="What effect do water ions have on mash efficiency *other* than adjusting Ph?" Tags="|mash|water|efficiency|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18997" CreationDate="2017-02-06T20:23:41.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO PET bottles will keep beer very well for up to 6 months. Beer &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be kept longer than that but I have noticed that &quot;fizzy drinks&quot; PET bottles can lose pressure after a year or so. Apparently the PET used is very slightly gas permeable. There are bottles on the market with an O2 barrier inserted in the bottle walls, eg - Coopers brown plastic bottles. These are reputed to keep beer good for 1 year or more. I can vouch for the beer in Cooper's bottles being good after 7 months. If I want to keep and conditioned beer for more than 1 year I use &quot;flip top&quot; glass bottles. they seem to store beer well for 24 months and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is easier to keep the yeast in the bottle, when carefully pouring the beer, if the yeast is settled at the base of the bottle. Hence bottles are best stored upright. Storing bottles on their side means some yeast is always near the mouth of the bottle which often results is slightly cloudy beer. I have seen one very imaginative method where the bottles are stored upside down. The yeast settles in the cap and if the bottle is carefully inverted the yeast can be removed with the cap. But like all magic tricks - don't depend on this going right first time in front of an audience! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T20:23:41.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2017-02-07T02:48:10.200" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ferment ales until they stop making gas, typically 8-16 days. After that I leave them for around 3 weeks, 70 degrees, in the bottle, in the dark, upright. Never a problem! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14676" LastEditorUserId="796" LastEditDate="2017-02-08T05:34:36.297" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T05:34:36.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18999" CreationDate="2017-02-07T06:33:09.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO it is the pH of the mash is the important thing. pH of the source water is not so important - as long as it is not ridiculously high of low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barley and wheat amylase enzymes work optimally in the presence of calcium ions, one could say they require calcium ions to function. So using totally de-ionised water for mashing/lautering/sparging is not an optimal procedure. Some calcium carbonate/sulphate/chloride must be added as appropriate for the mash pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other ions generally have a varying but more negative effect on barley or wheat amylase activity. &lt;a href=&quot;http://docplayer.net/21159398-Spectrophotometric-studies-about-amylase-activity-in-starch-hydrolysis-reaction.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;To quote an online source&lt;/a&gt; Zinc2+, Ammonium+ and Iron3+ ions are inhibitors of amylase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IIRC Calcium ions aid flocculation and precipitation of protein and other high Molecular weight organics to produce a bright wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T06:33:09.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18999" CreationDate="2017-02-07T11:30:16.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water salts are not going to effect lautering efficiency to any large degree.  Mash efficiency is a made up term that takes into account both lautering efficiency and conversion efficiency.  It sounds to me like you have a lautering problem.  If the grain bags are too tight you likely have some conversion efficiency as well if not all the grain is properly hydrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water ions effect pH which does have a direct correlation to conversion efficiency.  You do need some calcium to help drive good enzymatic conversion, of which 5.2 stabilizer does not provide.  However, most malt on its own has enough Ca++ and Mg++ for conversion.  We just need to add more to get to the optimal pH range when working with RO water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T11:30:16.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18970" CreationDate="2017-02-07T18:51:02.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use PBW and it is a good 'soak' cleaning agent. However I find when using hard water it can slowly form a 'film' on the surface of things that are repeatedly cleaned by only soaking and rinsing.  Any film formed is usually easy to clean off by scrubbing in hot water and re-rinsing. It might be worth checking for any build up in pipes or difficult to reach corners from time to time. My friends who have soft water don't seem to have such a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T18:51:02.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18775" CreationDate="2017-02-07T23:05:20.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An autosiphone is a cheap effective way to do it.  $15, give or take, and you'll be in business.  You won't find an advantage in terms of oxidation of one vs. the other.  I've done both, and have both.  The autosiphone is still pretty straight forward and quick to use, and I still use it despite having CO2 at my disposal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a tank, regulators, fittings, etc... you'll be into it for $200, so I wouldn't do it unless you're building a kegerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14312" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T23:05:20.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18910" CreationDate="2017-02-07T23:30:51.183" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on alot of factors temperature- yeast culture and  volume of wort. A fast start doesn't  always mean final gravity will be achieved. My advice would be to make sure you aerate your wort shacking the carboy isn't enough. l suggest using a aquarium stone &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14675" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T23:30:51.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18994" CreationDate="2017-02-08T01:16:49.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any beer is OK to bottle when the yeast is at the point where it will not over-carbonate the bottles, putting them at risk of pressure-induced bursting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what point is this the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The generally recommended practice is when three successive gravity readings show the beer stays at the same gravity, and this gravity is roughly at the final gravity you expected. The readings are usually taken over 3 days.  Air lock activity is not a &lt;em&gt;reliable&lt;/em&gt; indicator of this because CO2 may be escaping through another point (like around a bung or grommet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your kit probably included a hydrometer.  This measures the density of the liquid it floats in.  It looks a bit like a big glass thermometer.  Take a sample of beer, and float the hydrometer in it.  Read the number that's right at the top of the beer.  Your hydrometer might have other units like Brix as well.  Here I'm talking about specific gravity, the amount of dissolved sugar in the beer changes how deep it floats (or sinks).  As the yeast processes the sugar, the gravity (density) of the beer decreases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to get some numbers into this - for something like a simple pale ale (starting gravity around 1.050) a final gravity of around 1.012 might be OK. If it was still at 1.020 I would be cautious about bottling - especially in glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything Barking.pete says is generally true in practice (2 weeks fermenting at room temperature is usually enough).  But to be sure it's best to take those gravity readings.  Temperature can significantly effect the action of the yeast, so if you're room/garage temperature was 14C it would be typical for fermentation to re-start once the beer warmed up.  If your not in your target final gravity, it's much easier to fix it in the fermenter than in the bottles!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's common practice to take an initial gravity reading too.  This allows you to determine the alcohol content of the beer by looking at the difference between the starting and finishing gravities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T01:16:49.397" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-08T20:50:16.173" Score="1" ViewCount="1458" Body="&lt;p&gt;Conventional wisdom states that dissolved oxygen is driven out of wort when it is boiled. I can certainly understand that after 60-90 minutes of boiling the oxygen would be all gone. What about when boiling wort for 10 minutes for making a yeast starter? How much of the oxygen is still there and how much oxygenation is needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14164" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T00:33:22.270" Title="How fast does boiling water de-oxygenate?" Tags="|boil|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-09T12:41:21.613" Score="0" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to brew a batch of beer today.  I'm not sure how long I should keep the beer fermented. What is the maximum amount of time, that home brew beer can ferment  without it going bad ???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14643" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T00:31:57.217" Title="Maximum maximum Fermentation length" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-02-10T11:48:30.240" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19012" CreationDate="2017-02-09T13:04:17.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's so many variables to give a standard answer, but in short the beer is only going to ferment as long as there are fermentables still in the solution. Depending on the type of beer and gravity as well as temperature throughout, the time is going to vary. Many ales fermented at 18-22C temperature should be done with primary fermentation anywhere between a few days to 10 days or so but there is absolutely no harm in keeping the beer in the primary fermenting bin/bucket for three weeks or more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers can and will be able to get much more complex than this and will take into consideration (among many other things) the oxygen permeability of your fermentation vessel, but provided you're not going to be going overboard in terms of sitting the beer forever, I would think the above should be okay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T13:04:17.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19011" CreationDate="2017-02-09T13:14:56.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In principle boiling water for just a few minutes will reduce the oxygen levels to &quot;near zero&quot;. Boiling wort for a similar time will probably have improved results - as wort boils at a slightly higher temperature than water. Oxygen dissolves less in hot water and will leave the liquid via the surface. As the water heats up,  the solubility of oxygen can decrease quickly and and air/oxygen bubbles can form in the water before it actually boils. If the water is actually boiling with steam bubbles then the steam will assist the rest of the oxygen to escape from the volume of the boiling liquid as well as from the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make an efficient yeast starter from boiled wort one would have to cool the wort and then shake it vigorously after exposing the cooled wort to air a few times. I don;t tend to use wort for making starters any more but when I did I put the cooled wort into a plastic 1 litre &quot;soft drink&quot; bottle. I screwed the top on a shook the bottle vigorously for (say) 20 seconds. Then I open the cap and squeezed the bottle to drive out old air and put in new air, then I closed the cap again and shock again. Repeating this (say) 3 times was shown to put 7ppm dissolved oxygen back into the wort (measured with a membrane O2 probe). Even if I &quot;went crazy&quot; with the aeration technique I couldn't get it much above 10ppm. I understand that anything at or above 7ppm dissolved oxygen is good for initiating primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I use glucose for preparing a starter (not a &quot;culture&quot; for keeping). I sterilise a capped glass bottle by filling it (and the cap) with boiling water. After a few minutes I drain the water (careful!) and add 50g dextrose/sugar to the bottle and dissolve it in a minimum of boiled water (about 1/2 - 1 cup). leave this for a minute or two and the heat will pasteurise the sugar. Then (careful - heat stress)) add cold water to the bottle until it is &quot;baby milk hot&quot;(test it!). At this point add the yeast to the solution and shake vigorously for (say) 20 seconds with the top on the bottle. Allow some fresh air into the bottle and repeat (say) 3 times. Leave in a warm place for an hour. The yeast should by now show good signs of activity. If so it is safe to pitch. If not wait and recheck later. If still no sign of vigorous activity then discard and make another (preferably using a different batch of yeast). The method is quicker and less costly - more so if the yeast is inactive!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-02-10T00:33:22.270" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T00:33:22.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18984" CreationDate="2017-02-09T17:40:18.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You absolutely can use a BrewPi without any chamber, be be aware it will be much more difficult to maintain proper temps if your environment has wide swings in temperature throughout the day.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it will be more expensive to maintain temperature.  Isolating your fermenter from the outside environment allows the Fermwrap to work much less as the chamber itself will lend a hand in keeping the fermenter at whatever temp you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even something as simple as a box made of rigid insulation will make it MUCH easier on your setup and your wallet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14683" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T17:40:18.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17078" CreationDate="2017-02-09T18:03:27.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would imagine, given the fact that you state you have cleaned everything thoroughly, this is what's referred to as &quot;Krausen&quot; or &quot;Beer Head&quot; and is perfectly normal and is most certainly NOT an indicator of an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated on Wiki:   Beer head (also head or collar),[1] is the frothy foam on top of beer which is produced by bubbles of gas, typically carbon dioxide, rising to the surface. The elements that produce the head are wort protein, yeast and hop residue. The carbon dioxide that forms the bubbles in the head is produced during fermentation. The carbonation can occur before or after bottling the beer. If the beer continues fermenting in the bottle, then it naturally carbonates and the head is formed upon opening and/or pouring the beer. If the beer is pasteurized or filtered then the beer must be force carbonated using pressurized gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The density and longevity of the head will be determined by the type of malt and adjunct from which the beer was fermented. Different mash schedules and cereal sources influence head retention. In general, wheat tends to produce larger and longer-lasting heads than barley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words - don't worry about it!  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14683" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T18:03:27.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19020" CreationDate="2017-02-09T18:17:27.207" Score="5" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently fermenting a Berliner Weisse and was both surprised and pleased at the recipe when I read it required NO BOILING at all!  It was so easy simply mashing and then draining directly into the fermenter.  The wort was then allowed to cool down on it's own until the temp was OK for the yeast to be pitched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone interested, the recipe is &quot;Word to Your Mother&quot; Berliner Weisse, by Michael Dawson.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this:  Are there any more types of beer that allows one to skip the boil entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I AM aware of what boiling does to wort and why skipping the boil was OK for this particular recipe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14683" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T00:55:09.580" Title="What types of beer allow you to skip the boil phase all together?" Tags="|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18999" CreationDate="2017-02-09T19:10:20.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brad smith has a cast that covers the ions and importance. The interview is a bit awkward as the guy he's talking with knows water control and isn't a brewer but Brad walks him through each of the important parts and what it means to the brew. As for efficiency, I've seen mash temps play the largest role. As little as 5 °F can drastically change the gravity. Also tightly packed (thick) mash can lead to less fermentables than a thin mash   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2016/01/06/beer-water-testing-with-christian-krzykwa-beersmith-podcast-118/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://beersmith.com/blog/2016/01/06/beer-water-testing-with-christian-krzykwa-beersmith-podcast-118/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T16:03:56.230" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:03:56.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19012" CreationDate="2017-02-10T00:31:57.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most beer fermentations are over in about 10 days. if the temperature is a bit cooler then many prefer to leave their brew for 14 days. Some leave it for 3 weeks and some even lager their lagers for 3 months at temperatures as low as 5 degrees. But all that is a rule of thumb. The best way to discover if the brew has stopped fermenting is to use a hydrometer. Take successive readings and if the reading is the same for 3 days in a row then the fermentation has essentially stopped. It is useful to take a first reading just before (or after) pitching - then one can calculate the ABV of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T00:31:57.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19017" CreationDate="2017-02-10T00:43:16.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Raw Beer&quot; aka &quot;no boil beer&quot; is a popular way of producing beer and there are a number of sites and recipes for this type of brew (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.garshol.priv.no/blog/331.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a sensible example&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://mutedog.beer/blog/brewing-raw-ale&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a weird example&lt;/a&gt;). Many a happy hour can be spent on Google reviewing the subject. It is reputed that the palest pilsners can be made with the no boil method. The only real problem is hop utilisation efficiency. The hops don;t really produce much bittering effect without a boil to allow the alpha acids to isomerise. However it is possible to just boil the hops and strain the &quot;hop tea&quot; into the raw beer wort. Good luck'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-02-10T00:55:09.580" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T00:55:09.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10010" CreationDate="2017-02-10T21:43:11.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think using potassium sorbate and/or sodium bisulfite or campden tablets can slow down the process of fermentation for you to brew to the level of sweetness that you desire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation decreases the level of sweetness by converting all the sugar into alcohol. &#xA;Introducing any of the above, will help reduce if not stop completely, the action of yeast during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The potassium sorbate prevents wine yeast from reproducing itsef and slows down yeast action but does not kill the yeast, but has the ability to stop the action of yeast after the fermentation is complete and when additional sugar is been introduced into the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The campden tablets or sodium bisulfite reduces the action of yeast during fermentation, and this is best introduced when the fermentation is nearly reaching the point of desired...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14687" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-02-15T17:26:40.980" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T17:26:40.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-11T20:10:11.187" Score="1" ViewCount="505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been testing out my brigalow homebrew! All the reviews I've found said its one of the worst kit beers out! Being my very first home brew... can't comment on comparison but can say that by tweaking the instructions a bit... I've now got a beautiful beer! I've no idea of ales, lagers, and all of that! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation is not too bad but very little head. How do I change that? How do you know if it has completed the carbonation process? Does carbonation and head retention go hand in hand? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14490" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2017-02-15T17:26:45.223" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T17:26:45.223" Title="Head on a brigalow homebrew" Tags="|head|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19022" CreationDate="2017-02-11T21:26:55.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the beer seems well carbonated, it is possible that the problem could be with your glassware. Some detergents, particularly dishwasher rinse agents or those with drying agents can put a film on your glass that can cause poor head retention, but if you're not having the issue with other beers (commercially bought, for example), then this may not be the cause of your problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative could be the type of malt used in the recipe. I believe, though would struggle to elaborate being new to the homebrew scene myself too, that the proteins in the malt can aid head retention of the final beer and some malts offer more of this type of protein. It could be the kit that you used may have been closer to the end of its shelf life or that the proteins which aid head retention in the particular malt used by the producer are not as prominent as in other malts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastEditorUserId="14585" LastEditDate="2017-02-11T21:31:57.007" LastActivityDate="2017-02-11T21:31:57.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19022" CreationDate="2017-02-12T08:21:13.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most kits include a can of &quot;malt extract&quot; and some yeast to which one adds some sugar and a lot of water before fermenting it. IMHO the best (and perhaps most natural) way to improve &quot;head&quot; and &quot;body&quot; of a kit beer is to add more pale malt extract instead of sugar. An equal measure of liquid malt extract or a little less dry extract will do. The measurement does not need to be very precise. Doing that will &quot;thicken&quot; the beer by adding a small amount protein and a lot of polysaccharides that will, amongst other things, improve the structural quality of the foam and aid head retention. One can increase the head developing potential by using wheat malt extract not just barley malt extract. (The next step would be to buy and use pure malt extract and add your own choice of hops). IMHO the main reason many &quot;economic&quot; beer kits don't foam well is because there is not much on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation can be achieved in several ways and some are more reproducible that others. The simplest way is to add a known amount of sugar to the brew after fermentation has finished and then bottle/keg it. I prefer adding this to the beer by transferring the beer from the brew bucket onto a solution of the sugar in a clean bucket. That takes the beer off the dropped trub/yeast in the brew bucket and allows me to uniformly mix in the sugar without making the beer cloudy. I find 120g of sugar per 24 litres of beer gives a mild carbonation and 150g sugar(or dextrose) per 24l gives a good gassy carbonation.  Other prefer to add measured amounts of sugar to each bottle. 3g of sugar/glucose per 500ml bottle will give a reasonable carbonation. Friends have used one heaped teaspoon of sugar (via a funnel) for each 500ml bottle. IIRC carbonation drops are usually designed/dosed for 330ml bottles and the recommendation is to use 2 for 500ml bottles.If you have carbonation drops they are convenient to use but IMHO they are not worth buying as one can use sugar to carbonate as easily and more cheaply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-02-12T08:21:13.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19026" CreationDate="2017-02-12T13:22:32.190" Score="4" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 10 gallon boil kettle and was doing a BIAB with a required mash temp of 154 F and 13 lbs of grain. About 10 minutes into the mash, most of the kettle was reading 145-150 F, but one spot was 125 F and another spot was 170 F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave it a good stir and moderared the heat continually. That helped even it out nicely. But, it made me wonder. When you measure the temp, are you interested in the temp smack dab in the middle of the kettle, off to the sides, the wort itself without any grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the OG was right where it needed to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T05:07:57.133" Title="Brew in a bag - mash temp all over the place" Tags="|mash|mashing|biab|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19025" CreationDate="2017-02-12T15:35:22.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do normal all grain procedure and the situation is the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest heat flux will be on outer diemeter of the mash tun. The better the insulation, the smaller the heat flux will be. Usually i have one ds18b20 sensor in the middle and second one on the side of the mash tun. Then i compare readings from both sensors and if the deviation is more then a few degrees i give it a stir. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14697" LastActivityDate="2017-02-12T15:35:22.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1774" CreationDate="2017-02-12T15:43:29.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend that you buy a stainless steel barrel for wine and wrap it with any kind of insulation. They are not very expensive and they will not release any off flavours&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have one with a volume of 60 liters and i can easily make 50 liter batches with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14697" LastActivityDate="2017-02-12T15:43:29.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19025" CreationDate="2017-02-13T05:07:57.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess in the end having small variations between different parts of mash tun/kettle at mashing doesn't really matter. I'd bet $20 that taste difference between 1) single infusion just left alone, and 2) single infusion constantly stirred -- would not be statistically confirmed at blind tasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all that, I use a small pump throughout the whole mashing process to recirculate wort in my BIAB(asket) setup, so that all dust/crumbles would be filtered by the grain bed. That also makes temperature moreless even, even though that wasn't the primary reason. I keep a temp probe right in the middle of the grain bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T05:07:57.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19035" CreationDate="2017-02-13T14:47:04.837" Score="2" ViewCount="744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a fermentation fridge and for the controler I'm looking at brew-pi vs STC 1000. One of the advantages of the brew-pi is that it can handle multiple sensors. I don't understand the point of multiple sensors and I can't find information how they would work together. I can only assume it's to get an average temperature of the beer in the fermenter, or otherwise how are they an advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My system will be a single chamber converted fridge using a heat tube for the heating side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T18:59:30.260" Title="What is the purpose of multiple temperature probes in a brew-pi fermentation control setup?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19030" CreationDate="2017-02-13T17:19:35.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brew Pi seems to be intelligent to the uses ( ie positions) of the various sensors ( ie in beer vs in chamber) and so appropriate them within the software, using this as part of the PID control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( photo courtesy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/wordpress/2015/03/review-brewpi-fermentation-temperature-controller/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/wordpress/2015/03/review-brewpi-fermentation-temperature-controller/&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AySvR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AySvR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T17:19:35.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19044" CreationDate="2017-02-13T18:45:35.793" Score="1" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few carboys with various mead concoctions. Unfortunately I didn't have enough starting sugar so I want to add some honey to restart and get my ABV above its current level of 4%. I don't have much head space left to add more honey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to add more sugars and re-measure gravity for ABC calculations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, what should my starting S.G. be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T20:57:11.033" Title="Adding honey after initial fermentation" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19034" CreationDate="2017-02-14T03:17:04.437" Score="1" ViewCount="2728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never aged mead before, I usually just let them finish the fermentation, back-sweet with honey, bottle and drink in a few days/weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make my mead in glass bottles of 750ml, 1L and 1.5L (I don't have a big carboy, they are very expensive here). I have a 1.5 L that I wish to age for a year to test. My question are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is 1 year aging a good starting point?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I rack it before aging? If yes, how many times? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I rack it after aging?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I back-sweet it before or after aging?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In case of back-sweeting, should I pasteurize the mead or add any chemicals to kill the yeast? Which?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I live in a subtropical climate place, with temperatures ranging from -5°C(23°F) to 35°C(95°F), will it be possible to age in ambient temperature or should I leave it in my refrigerator?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14692" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-08-03T15:08:43.847" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T15:08:43.847" Title="Mead Aging - Pasteurize or not?" Tags="|mead|aging|pasteurization|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19033" CreationDate="2017-02-14T09:08:29.137" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;1: I year is good. 5 years can often be better!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: Yes, rack before ageing/conditioning. Once is enough, just to take the young mead off the precipitated yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4: Neither is possibly better. But you are the brewer and can adjust as you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 No. Pasteurising is probably a bad move. Adding chemicals can be done - but why? Mead is usually sufficiently alcoholic to be stable. Better to use a yeast that has the desired degree of attenuation with an initial surplus of honey. One can use a non fermentable sweetener (lactose, stevia) but that would not be a very authentic mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.Good question.... The usual answer is to leave in a cool dark place like a cellar. But a shaded place that has least temperature variation and does not freeze will do. A refrigerator can be used but it is not optimal. I have conditioned beer in a fridge for 18 months just to see what happened. The result was possibly slightly worse than conditioning at room temperature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer to comment below:&#xA;There is no particular need to use one type of yeast. Some are happy with what they have and others are forever looking for the perfect yeast. Different yeasts ferment to different levels of alcohol. Attenuation is a measure the yeast ability to convert sugar to alcohol. Or perhaps the level of alcohol a yeast will stop fermenting at. Low Attenuation = lower levels of alcohol in final brew. High attenuation yeast = higher final level of alcohol. But choosing the yeast and adding an excess of honey for that level of attenuation one can vary the level of alcohol and level of sweetness in the final product. A dry mead is produced where there is just enough honey sugar to ferment to the level the yeast stops at. A sweet mead is made by adding more honey than the yeast can deal with. So some residual sweetness is left when the yeast has reached its preferred attenuation level. In this case it seems you need a lower attenuating yeast than the one you currently use. Alternatively you can use a non fermenting sweetener (like stevia) but some consider that cheating...&#xA;Back sweetening is not bad it is just difficult to manage for anything other than immediate consumption in a &quot;live&quot; brew. If the mead yeast is still active then adding honey will cause it to ferment further. You could pasteurise the mead or add preservatives or growth inhibitors (like Ksorbate) but that would be a personal choice. I would prefer to arrive at the preferred sweetness by a more &quot;organic&quot; method such as choice of yeast. YMMV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T19:38:26.653" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T19:38:26.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19030" CreationDate="2017-02-14T18:59:30.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Advanced temperature control algorithm of BrewPi uses both environmental and fermentation vessel temperature (multiple sensors).  The problem this solves is the air surrounding your fermenting wort will always change quicker than the wort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you put the sensor from a STC-1000 the liquid will either warm/cool more than expected because the controller waits for the correct temperature.  The BrewPi will learn and predict how the liquid vs environmental temperature affects each other and shut the cooling/warming off early in order to hit the target temperature closer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the landing page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewpi.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.brewpi.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;BrewPi has an advanced temperature control algorithm that can keep your beer temperature stable within 0.1 °C. &#xA;  Instead of just heating when the beer is too cold and cooling when the beer is too warm, BrewPi calculates what the fridge temperature should be to keep your beer temperature in check. It then controls the fridge temperature. This prevents fluctuations in the beer temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14231" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T18:59:30.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19036" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19041" CreationDate="2017-02-14T22:18:56.063" Score="2" ViewCount="1292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing apple wine. There is a layer of white foam forming at the top. Shall I remove it or it is ok to leave it like this?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8qET.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8qET.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14705" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T11:07:20.530" Title="Shall I filter the foam from wine" Tags="|fermentation|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19038" CreationDate="2017-02-15T00:08:21.223" Score="1" ViewCount="936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a fermentation fridge based on an STC1000. Clearly if I had a heating side to it I would no doubt be &lt;strong&gt;better&lt;/strong&gt; able to control the temperature; but I am not sure whether the heating element that I'm getting will be in in time for my next brew and I just got to thinking ... &lt;em&gt;do I really need a heating element?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point being that given that in my own circumstance the fridge would be located in a room temperature environment surely there's no &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;real&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; need for a heating side as the temperature if it gets too low will just heat up eventually ... probably slower than ideal, granted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;but my question is this:&lt;/strong&gt; — Would the heating side be something which is &amp;quot;ideal&amp;quot; rather than something which is &amp;quot;necessary&amp;quot; in a scenario where the fridge is in an aprox 20C (68F) environment and I'm using US05 yeast ( which doesn't need high temperatures and has a reasonably wide temperature range), and given the fact that I'm reasonably new to homebrew so at this point I'm aiming more for good beers than great beers; to quote John Palmer ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— and if I'm wrong about this could this please be explained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T13:22:31.087" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T13:22:31.087" Title="Is there any real need for a heating element on an STC 1000 fridge setup ( for most/many setups)?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19037" CreationDate="2017-02-15T02:32:39.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2x fermentation fridges, and both have heaters (heat-pads) connected to the STC-1000.  My fridges live outside, so suffer winter lows (~ 0C/32F) and summer highs (~ 45C/113F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're confident the environment your fridge is in will &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; get below say 15C (point at which ale yeasts typically go somewhat dormant), then there is no need for a heating element.  The actual fermentation process also does induce some heating too.  Maybe you live in Singapore or something - great stop reading, you don't need it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But say you're not confident: low temperatures can slow or stall a fermentation.  So unless you want to wait for winter to be over to finish your beer, a heat source is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I look at like this:  If you don't want to spend the extra on an unnecessary component, well sure, that's a good reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you said your &amp;quot;building&amp;quot; a ferm' fridge.  So I take it to mean you’re manually installing an STC-1000.  This means your probably wiring it up, and cutting a hole for mounting in the side of the fridge, and very very carefully finding a path through the insulation and coolant system of the fridge to wire in the sensor.  Getting it all together, and then having to near-dislocate a limb to get that last-flaming-orange-clip back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a tiresome, fiddly job.  Thus: &lt;em&gt;Ideally&lt;/em&gt;, you may as well wire-up a heating source at the same time, rather than having to re-do it again later... Just in case your fridge gets moved to an unheated garage, a winter-window is left open, or suchlike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T13:21:38.600" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T13:21:38.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-15T10:48:32.027" Score="2" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just started brewing at home with Clarity Ferm - in our first attempt we added much more than intended (over half the tube to a 1 gallon brew). Has anyone else done this - do you know if it would have any adverse effects and is still safe to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14707" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T11:27:16.303" Title="Clarity Ferm question" Tags="|gluten-free|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19036" CreationDate="2017-02-15T11:07:20.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO this looks like a normal and vigorous fermentation. There is no need to disturb it or remove any foam layer. My advice would be to leave it alone for at least a month (if not 2 or more) and then see how it is doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the carboy on the right has had a very energetic fermentation! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T11:07:20.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19040" CreationDate="2017-02-15T11:27:16.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clarity Ferm is a solution, supplied in 10ml tubes, that contains &quot;proline-specific endo-protease derived from a selected strain of Aspergillus niger&quot;. It basically chops up proteins (polypeptides) to stop the formation of &quot;chill haze&quot; and and as a useful side effect it chops up gluten proteins to make gluten free beer (interesting!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This enzyme is not notified as poisonous in elevated quantities and would probably denature anyway in very acidic conditions (think stomach acid). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the manufacturers spec sheet I see that 10ml is good for 5 gallons. So using 5ml in 1 gallon is not a vast &quot;overdose&quot;. I note that the recommended dosage is doubled for beers with &gt;20% wheat in the grain bill. So it can be used in greater and lesser amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO I would bottle and condition the beer to allow the enzyme to work on the gluten. After a few months I would sample it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T11:27:16.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19037" CreationDate="2017-02-16T17:08:14.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will echo what Kingsley has to say with one addition - you can create a heating element for less than 10 dollars.   A simple light bulb placed inside of a tin can will easily heat up a full sized-fridge area.  You just have to ensure that no light escapes from the can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a perfect instructible on it:   &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Paint-Can-Heater-for-Fermentation-Chamber/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Paint-Can-Heater-for-Fermentation-Chamber/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14683" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T17:08:14.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19032" CreationDate="2017-02-16T20:51:51.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to answer this question, as we really need to know then intended outcome to comment on the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at some basic recipes for mead, starting Original Gravities (OG) can be anywhere around 1.080 to 1.100.  Of  course it depends on whether your aiming for a dry mead or a sweet mead.  You might want to go lower or higher.  Of course the final AbV depends on your yeast and fermentation process too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the lack of space in fermentation vessels, the best fermentable-per-volume is a dry sugar.  Whether this will poorly effect the taste of your mead is up to you.  Personally I would not go this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want to boost the AbV you could add vodka, or some other neutral spirit to the finished mead.  This will of course dilute the flavour too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would just drink the mead at 4% (I assume from the final gravity it will be quite dry), and plan better for the next batch.  If this idea is not to your liking, and your question suggests this - then perhaps ferment a second batch of &quot;strong&quot; neutrally-flavoured mead, and combine this will the low-gravity dry meads to balance them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipes and articles on basic mead: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/mead&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;byo.com&lt;/a&gt; ; &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/dive-into-mead-making/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;beerandwinejournal.com&lt;/a&gt; ; &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmithrecipes.com/searchrecipe?term=mead&amp;amp;submit.x=0&amp;amp;submit.y=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;beersmith.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2017-02-16T20:57:11.033" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T20:57:11.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18874" CreationDate="2017-02-16T21:09:25.963" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the answers. I'm still working out the how exactly I want it taste. I think she is imagining something like creamsicle ice cream.  Thanks for the input &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14531" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T21:09:25.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-16T21:12:13.473" Score="3" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 clear blow off tubes and both have become cloudy and a little yellow. 1. Can this be cleaned? 2. If not will it effect my beer as it's just a blow off tube. &#xA;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14531" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T00:47:39.737" Title="Blow off tubes are cloudy" Tags="|fermentation|equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19046" CreationDate="2017-02-16T21:39:17.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say just soak them in PBW and then sanitize with Star-San. Keeping those tubes stain-free is tough. As long as they're cleaned and sanitized, no worries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastEditorUserId="13998" LastEditDate="2017-02-17T19:35:31.090" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T19:35:31.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19046" CreationDate="2017-02-17T16:32:44.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will have no negative effects on your beer. Craftmeister alkaline wash might clean them, but it's really n o big deal.  All of mine look like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T16:32:44.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-17T19:59:27.610" Score="4" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a hydrometer to level up a bit my game, It works great for Initial Gravity measures, it has a range from 0.997 to 1.100. My problem comes when it finishes the fermentation, I get a very VERY dry mead which the hydrometer ranges doesn't work, it gets almost completely submerged, I think my FG is around 0.990. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, how can I measure it without diluting the mead. I can add honey as I usually aim to 1.005~1.010 finish gravity. But it's kind hard to estimate how much honey do I need to add in order to get in this range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14692" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T18:21:24.977" Title="FG too low to read" Tags="|mead|final-gravity|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19049" CreationDate="2017-02-18T00:45:49.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are other hydrometers available that cover a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/final-gravity-hydrometer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tight range at the low end&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Regardless of the reading however, if you add more honey to raise the gravity it will just ferment out again. Unless you plan to stabilize the mead with sorbates or sulfites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-02-18T00:45:49.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-18T03:16:21.070" Score="2" ViewCount="663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using hop stands for all of my beers, but they all have been slightly different.  I was wondering what you guys would recommend in terms of when to add the hops (at what temperature) and for how long. I add a minimal bittering charge at 30 or 15 min depending, then add the rest of the hops during the hop stand.  Usually the hops stand is about 20 min, then I turn on the wort chiller and run it until its cold enough to pitch (66-68F typically).  If you guys have any recommendations, I'd appreciate it. Thanks! Also, I do dry hop after fermentation is complete and let that stand for 4-5 days.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14525" LastActivityDate="2017-03-22T17:06:39.273" Title="whirlpool/ hop stand duration and temps" Tags="|hops|techniques|all-grain|late-addition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19049" CreationDate="2017-02-18T21:52:35.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually this shouldn't be too hard, provided you have an accurate scale. You can simply dissolve some white table sugar in your mead and compare the reading you get with the reading you would expect to get if you had dissolved the same amount of sugar in water instead. The difference will tell you how far below SG 1.000 (density of water) you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Say you took 5 grams of sugar (sucrose) and dissolved it in 95 grams of water. This would give you a 5% solution (5 grams of sugar out of the total weight of 100 grams). This is the same as 5 degrees Plato or SG 1.020 (for all intents and purposes, degrees Plato times four gives you the last two digits of SG [5 x 4 = 20, hence 1.020]).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you used your mead instead of water you should measure a lower number. Say you added 5 grams of sugar to 95 grams of the mead, took a gravity reading, and got 1.008. Since you know using water should have given you 1.020, you can assume you started with liquid that was 0.012 SG &lt;em&gt;lower&lt;/em&gt; than water (1.020 - 1.008), or 0.988.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be more trouble than it's worth, but it should let you know the gravity to a fair degree of accuracy. It would be best to do everything at room temperature, both for accuracy of hydrometer measurements and to avoid evaporating any liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I should have noted that degrees Plato is the same as the percentage of sucrose in aqueous solution (i.e. 12.5 degrees Plato is the same as a 12.5% sucrose solution). Obviously mead/beer/cider/whatever have different sugars in solution, as well as alcohol and other soluble materials, but they are measured as the &lt;em&gt;equivalent&lt;/em&gt; weight of sucrose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Another edit:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The formula to add enough sugar to a given amount of liquid to make a 5% (or any percentage) solution is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Ws = [ % * Wl ] \ [ 1 - %]&#xA;&#xA;where:&#xA;  Ws = weight of sugar to add&#xA;  % = desired percentage of soultion (expressed as % / 100, so 5% would be 0.05)&#xA;  Wl = weight of liquid to which you will add the sugar&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And working through a hypothetical example: you fill your hydrometer tube enough for a measurement and the weight of that liquid is 162 grams. You want to add sugar to make a 5% solution, which should get the hydrometer to read in range. So the weight of sugar you want to add is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;= [ 0.05 * 162 g ] \ [ 1 - .05 ]&#xA;= 8.1 \ 0.95&#xA;= ~8.53 grams&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And let's just check our math quickly: our resulting solution weighs 162 g + 8.5 g = 170.5 g. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;8.5 / 170.5 = 0.0498&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or basically 5%. Cool!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2017-02-19T18:21:24.977" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T18:21:24.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-20T11:12:45.067" Score="5" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some input as to whether my planned recipe looks right.  I have only just finished my first ever brew and wanted to try my hand at pulling together my own recipe (but I am not skilled enough, nor do I have all necessary equipment to do all grain or start partial mashes, so would be looking at extract with some steeped speciality grains).  At the same time, I have been drinking a lot of Brooklyn Brewer's Sorachi Ace saison beer recently and it is probably my favourite ever beer, so I though I would try and clone it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://brooklynbrewery.com/brooklyn-beers/perennial-brews/brooklyn-sorachi-ace&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brooklyn website&lt;/a&gt; I know that the beer has an OG of 15 degrees plato (about 1.062 gravity) and an IBU of 34.  I also know that a little while back, they produced a homebrew kit which shows the hopping schedule but unfortunately not quantities (1/8 hops @ 60mins; 1/8 hops @ 30mins; 4/8 hops @ 0mins when boil is turned off and remaining 2/8 hops for dry hopping after 3 days of fermentation).  I know they use a belgian strain yeast too.  So... I was thinking of something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the calculations look right?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hops added at 0 mins when the heat is turned off and Belgian candi sugar stirred in to dissolve - my understanding is that there will be no efficiency and therefore no IBU contribution.  If they are being strained from the wort, is this not a &lt;strong&gt;MASSIVE&lt;/strong&gt; (given the amount used) waste of money and hops? Or is it a case that there &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; be an IBU contribution while the candi sugar is added and dissolved and then while the wort cools?  If so, I definitely need to rethink my hop schedule, but I'm not sure how to calculate IBU contribution while the wort cools in order to adjust my other scheduled amounts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The yeast - Brooklyn use their own strain of Belgian yeast so I figured this would do the job - but does anyone know if it will be good for a beer that typically has or aims to achieve an FG of around 1.005 or an ABV of approx. 7.2%?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts/comments/guidance much appreciated, though I am happy method-wise and do appreciate it is not always necessary to boil extract I do feel it is worthwhile if nothing else to get experience of the boil and understand the process better, so really looking for advice on the recipe &lt;em&gt;per se&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; looks like the image of my recipe didn't work so I'll try again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;**Sorachi Ace Malt Extract Recipe Idea**&#xA;Target OG: 1.062 (62 points) / 15.2 Plato&#xA;Batch Size: 6 Gallons&#xA;**Malts - Gravity Contribution**&#xA;8lbs Extra Light DME (typical yield 40ppg) - (40 x 8) / 6 = 53.3&#xA;1.25lb Crystal 15L (typical yield from steeping 14ppg) - (14 x 1.25)/6 = 2.9&#xA;1lb Belgian Candi Sugar (clear) (typical yield 36ppg) - (36 x 1) / 6 = 6&#xA;Total Points / OG - 62.2 / 1.062&#xA;Boil Gravity @ 3 gallon boil - ((8 x 40) / 3) + ((1.25 x 14) / 3) = 112.5&#xA;&#xA;**Hops - IBU Contribution (Target 34 IBUs)**&#xA;1.25oz Sorachi Ace (9%) @ 60 mins - ((11.25 x 0.136) x 75) / 6) = 19.13&#xA;1.25oz Sorachi Ace (9%) @ 30 mins - ((11.25 x 0.104) x 75) / 6) = 14.63&#xA;5oz Sorachi Ace (9%) @ 0 mins - 0&#xA;2.5oz Sorachi Ace (9%) Dry Hop - 0 added after 3 days following changeover of blow-off tube to Air-lock&#xA;&#xA;**Yeast  - Fermentation Schedule**&#xA;White Labs WLP545 Belgian Strong Ale Yeast  - Primary Fermentation for 2 weeks – 3 days (or until vigorous bubbling subsides) with blow off tube, followed by remaining period with airlock&#xA;&#xA;Method&#xA;1.  Add Crystal Malt (in grain bag) to 3 gallons of water, bring to 160F and steep for 30 minutes.&#xA;2.  After 30 minutes of steeping, remove grain bag, bring wort to boil and add DME plus 1.25oz hops.&#xA;3.  After 30 minutes of boil, add further 1.25oz Hops and continue boil.&#xA;4.  After 60 minutes of boil, turn off heat and add 5oz hops.  Stir in Belgian Candi Sugar to dissolve.&#xA;5.  Add wort to ice bath and use wort chiller to cool to 65F and add to fermentation vessel.&#xA;6.  Add cool water to bring wort to 6 gallons.&#xA;7.  Pitch yeast.&#xA;8.  Insert blow off tube with other end in bowl of sanitiser solution.&#xA;9.  After 3 days (or when vigorous bubbling subsides) remove blow off tube, add 2.5oz Hops to grain bag and add to wort.  Insert airlock and continue fermentation for remainder of two week schedule.&#xA;10. Bottle.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastEditorUserId="14585" LastEditDate="2017-02-20T11:31:10.747" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T10:59:31.557" Title="Input on recipe idea (are my calculations correct)" Tags="|recipe|recipe-formulation|extract-brewing|extract-plus-grains|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-20T16:32:10.587" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our moose drool type ale has been fermenting. It is time to rack it but it has been on at brewer heating pad and we just realized it is 86 degrees F.  It may have been that warm for 1-2 weeks. A dark towel has been wrapped around it for sun protection but would keep the heat in. &#xA;Have we ruined it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14720" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T17:04:16.583" Title="Does heat ruin beer in fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19055" CreationDate="2017-02-20T17:04:16.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, fermenting at that high a temp can cause off flavors.  The most prevalent and common one will be fusel alchols.  Those can give your beer an almost &quot;nail polish remover&quot; flavor and can generate huge headaches after drinking.  IN addition, depending ion the yeast you used, you can get a great increase in fruity esters, which may throw off the flavor profile of the beer.  In general, you'll get the best quality by maintaining temps in the 65-68F range.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T17:04:16.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19051" CreationDate="2017-02-20T17:06:27.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We did an experiment about this at www.experimentalbrew.com for our Experimental Brewing podcast.  Here is a link to the experiment parameters and results....&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.experimentalbrew.com/experiments/hop-whirlpool-does-steeping-lower-temperature-improve-final-hop-character&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.experimentalbrew.com/experiments/hop-whirlpool-does-steeping-lower-temperature-improve-final-hop-character&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T17:06:27.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-20T20:22:00.723" Score="5" ViewCount="797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may asking to much for a homegamer but is it possible to make semi-sweet/sweet mead carbonated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying go for around 1.05 FG and 7%~10% ABV. This can be done easily fermenting dry then adding honey afterwards. But if I want to make it sparking I need to ferment it further, which will either leave me with a dry sparkling mead or a a semi-sweet flat mead... Or a bottle bomb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about it and I came up with three ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermented it dry, add extra honey for priming, add a non-fermenting sweetener (Stevia? Lactose? Xylitol?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermented it dry, kill the yeast via pasteurization/chemicals, add extra honey to desired FG, add dry ice for carbonation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermented it dry, add extra honey to desired FG, add a bit more honey for the priming, pastureize after a couple of day. (But how to be sure that is in the desired FG/Carbonation?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think? Any other ideas? Or is it impossible to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14692" LastEditorUserId="14692" LastEditDate="2017-02-20T20:27:53.370" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T22:31:53.633" Title="Semi-Sweet, Medium ABV, Sparkling Mead - Is it possible?" Tags="|carbonation|mead|priming|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19071" CreationDate="2017-02-21T16:36:33.803" Score="2" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building myself a stir plate out of some things from my scrap heap of computer parts (mainly an old external hard drive and a case fan).  I've used it in its prototype stage for one yeast starter already.  It worked well enough, but it was a bit finicky, especially once the starter got thick with yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the initial testing I did with a flask of water didn't accurately represent the stir plate's performance on a yeast starter, I want to test it on something thicker as I put the finishing touches on the build.  I probably should've saved a jar of trub from my last batch, but it's too late for that now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make a couple liters of something with the consistency of a yeast starter for cheaper than actually buying a pack of yeast and making a starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6057" LastActivityDate="2017-02-25T05:31:30.007" Title="Simulating a yeast starter for fine tuning a stir plate" Tags="|yeast-starters|stir-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19062" CreationDate="2017-02-21T21:38:52.543" Score="3" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently studying for the General Certificate in Brewing from the IBD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The section on wort oxygenation/aeration states that a disadvantage of in-line cold wort aeration is the&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;need to increase solubility by injecting small bubbles or ensuring vigorous mixing and injecting when wort pressure is high&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't the relatively cool temperature of the wort actually &lt;em&gt;increase&lt;/em&gt; the solubility of the oxygen, and so &lt;em&gt;reduce&lt;/em&gt; the need for vigorous mixing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is this actually a reference to the aeration taking place inline, and so being at relatively higher pressure than when in the fermentation vessel? If so, I wondered why it isn't listed as a disadvantage for inline &lt;em&gt;hot wort&lt;/em&gt; aeration as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14573" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-02-23T11:43:15.203" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T11:43:15.203" Title="GCB Materials on Cold Wort Aeration" Tags="|wort|aeration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19063" CreationDate="2017-02-22T01:57:09.397" Score="5" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been over 5 years since I brewed my last batch.  I'll be moving in a few months into a new place and I'll be able to start brewing again, the problem is what equipment is toast from sitting idle after that long and what equipment can be cleaned/sanitized and put back to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to assume that metal/glass stuff is on the clean/sanitize list, but what about plastic fermenters?  Hoses?  Airlocks and other plastic/rubber stuff?  What about chemicals like PBW, Yeast nutrient/energizer, or sanitizers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T17:51:43.850" Title="After remaining inactive for a long time, what gear would need to be replaced and what gear can be cleaned/reused?" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19060" CreationDate="2017-02-22T04:19:03.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Wouldn't the relatively cool temperature of the wort actually increase the solubility of the oxygen, and so reduce the need for vigorous mixing?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sure. Looking at those revision notes, I think they are probably trying to emphasize that it's important, regardless of when oxygenation occurs, to provide some aid to the oxygen in dissolving; it's one of the &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; few advantages of aerating hot that the pressure and (more importantly) the turbulent flow of the heat exchanger make gas dissolution, as a percentage of total gas injected, very high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with the increased solubility at lower temperatures, if you do not provide some sort of restriction, dispersion or turbulence between the fermenter and the oxygenation point, a lot of that oxygen can arrive at the fermenter not fully dissolved, thus being wastefully added but also breaking out and causing foaming in the fermenter (which can strip volatiles and foam-positives out). This is especially likely to happen early in knockout when the liquid level in the fermenter is low and therefore provides little hydrostatic back-pressure. In my experience it's incredibly common to see even larger more established (pro) brewers practicing aeration so vigorous that most of the gas injected just comes right out before it has any chance to dissolve. If you can see enormous bubbles in a sight-glass, it's a pretty good guess that that oxygen isn't getting dissolved!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say I've studied quite a bit through the IBD and I find their information great in general, though they can be a bit obtuse at times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with the exam!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T04:19:03.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19061" CreationDate="2017-02-22T17:51:43.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should all be good.  As long as the plastic items haven't dried out and cracked, they just need to be cleaned and sanitized.  I quick trial run with just water will tell you if certain items are leaky or unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T17:51:43.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5819" CreationDate="2017-02-22T23:25:25.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i was also looking for a company that printed bottle tops in the uk and tried www.YourBrew.co.uk ,, I was very very impressed and now use them for all my requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14729" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T23:25:25.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-23T11:38:03.103" Score="2" ViewCount="969" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the recommended ways to (a) clean/sanitize stainless steel and (b) if necessarry passivize the stainless steel after the treatment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there is a question asking about &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/12942/cleaning-stainless-steel&quot;&gt;Cleaning stainless steel&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, this question, despite its title, is rather &quot;how to revocer/repair a damaged stainless steel&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to know is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what chemicals to use for cleaning (detergents and sanitizers) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what chemicals to avoid (to not deteriorate the stainless steal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what tools to use / to avoid (i.e. are &quot;abrasive cleaning pads&quot; a no-go, as they scar the surface)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when/is re-passivation of the stainless steel necessary?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give some background to the question here some &lt;strong&gt;background&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brew-setup (pots, fermenters, valves) consists of stainless steel alloys which I want to clean, i.e. remove also not eye-visible biological agents (in order to avoid contamination. Even though my setup is stainless steel alloys of the 300 series, it might be necessary to follow up any cleaning agent, with a passivating, re-passivation step, as to not risk the anti-corrosive attribute of the stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14242" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T17:57:56.640" Title="What are best practices for cleaning and passivating stainless steel pot/fermenter?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|stainless|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19066" CreationDate="2017-02-23T11:57:10.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last thing first.  There is no need to worry about passivating the stainless steel.  Once cleaned it will re-passivate when in contact with air and the residual moisture from cleaning.  Its almost instantaneous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-iron containing scrub pads are required for mechanical cleaning.  Green scrubbies often found with sponges are fine.  For less abrasive cleaning a sponge should work most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning agents are many.  Check the labels for safety with stainless.  That said stainless is pretty resistant to normal contact time cleaning.  In the homebrewery, hot soaks in PBW or oxiclean work fine and usually require minimal mechanical cleaning after wards.  For stubborn beer stone of the like Bar Keepers friend works great as a spot cleaner.  I have also used CLR in a pinch as well. Just be sure to use it at the recommended dilution.  Probrewers will use different regimens of acid and caustic depending on what the soil being removed is.  I point this out only to emphasize the durability of stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, really hard cleaning of a stainless fermentor is all I'd worry about. PBW and a good wipe out of the kettle is more than enough.  Microbially speaking the kettle is getting sanitized during the boiling of the hot wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T11:57:10.003" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19066" CreationDate="2017-02-23T17:57:56.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Passivation is a surface layer of oxide that prevents rust. If you don't have rust you don't need to worry about passivation. I bought a cheap kettle that began to rust around the welds after the first use. I used Barkeeper's Friend to repassivate it and now it is fine. I use a sponge with a soft scrubber and clean it before anything dries on, so simple wiping is good enough. If you have a fermenter with a dried krausen ring, soak it with one of the cleaners mentioned above (dissolved in hot water) until the crud comes off with little effort so you don't have to worry about doing damage by hard scrubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14164" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T17:57:56.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17777" CreationDate="2017-02-24T06:43:10.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem.  The only water I have available is tank rain water.  The modern view is that it is not fit for human drinking but I've been drinking it for years and so do all the city people that visit.  No one has had ill effects.  I bring water from a near by town for beer brewing only because of all the negatives I've seen on chats.   I am going to take the plunge and start brewing with tank water. I will let you know how it goes.  I think city people are a bit over the top when it comes to tank water.  It is much better to drink than chemically saturated town water. The only doubt I have ever had is that it is too pure (lack of calcium and very soft). I will filter out any particles accumulated in the tank and carbon filter first just to be on the safe side.  As for all the comments regarding having it tested first surely drinking it for 25 years is good enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14737" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T06:43:10.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="98" CreationDate="2017-02-24T23:56:48.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 pounds of white sugar per 3 gallons of apple juice will give you a hard cider that's approximately 8% to 9% ABV. That's what you'd get from a &quot;pop&quot; wine like Boone's Farm but it makes a great, very dry cider with about twice the &quot;oomph&quot; you'd get from commercial stuff.&#xA;Before bottling, I pour in a can of defrosted apple juice concentrate per 3 gallons, give it a gentle stir, let it mingle for about 5 minutes, and then bottle.&#xA;Within 2-3 weeks, you've got a perfectly carbonated hard cider.&#xA;Haven't had a bad batch in the 5 years I've been doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14740" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T23:56:48.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19059" CreationDate="2017-02-25T05:31:30.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't noticed any difference in the performance of my home-built stir plate between water and wort/yeast with one exception. I often make two-stage starters and refrigerate the flask between stages. then decant most of the old wort and add new wort. The resultant yeast slurry is very thick, and the stir plate can't turn the bar through the thick slurry. If I shake it up thoroughly first to break the slurry into tiny globs, then there is no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to thicken your water overall, try some flour in water, or possibly corn starch. If you want to simulate a flocculated yeast slurry, something like mayonnaise with water on top may do the job. Once the stirrer is going, the mayo should disperse in the water just like the yeast does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14164" LastActivityDate="2017-02-25T05:31:30.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18797" CreationDate="2017-02-25T13:56:21.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both. Use lots of hops late edition and a lot dry hopping. All depends on what you want to achieve profile wise. This is a good article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;late hopping&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2017-02-25T13:56:21.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-26T21:27:35.403" Score="3" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to kegging. I set my regulator at 20psi and have noticed it drops a bit every couple hours. There are no leaks that I know of and the tank is external if that helps. Any ideas why this is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14749" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T11:15:19.620" Title="Pressure is dropping while force carbonating" Tags="|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19074" CreationDate="2017-02-27T11:15:19.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate to say it but you have a leak.  Unless the fill on the tank is near empty as the beer carbonates neither gauge should be moving one set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a spray bottle and fill it with StarSan or a dilute dish soap solution.  StarSan is nice to use because it is also foamy but if you have to open the keg to reseat the lid soap won't be dripping into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be liberal and spray every fitting.  Around the lid and PRV.  Under the disconnects around the posts.  Spray the top of the disconnects.  Spray each place where your gas line meets a connection.  Spray where your regulator attaches to the tank.  Spray the shut of on the tank itself (I've seen one of those leak before too!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you work past each part, move/rock them back and forth.  Especially where the tubing connects to something.  You may need to trim back tubing and reattach it.  Be careful not to over-tighten clamps.  Despite what your gut tells you that can also lead to leaks sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T11:15:19.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19077" CreationDate="2017-02-28T14:42:36.737" Score="4" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to understand the nature of contamination in beer. I find it difficult to imagine (considering there are wild yeasts and moulds and micro-organisms in the air - aren't there?) a scenario where a beer is 100% free of contamination, &lt;strong&gt;or is this normally the case with a properly brewed batch?&lt;/strong&gt; Or is it a case that when contamination is lower than some threshold we don't notice it and that beer is considered to not be contaminated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested because being new to homebrewing and educating my palate, particularly with regard to off flavours I often wonder whether I have some kind of contamination. But I would usually discount this if the beer is question is pretty drinkable, because I would have assumed that contaminated beer would REALLY stand out and not really the kind of thing easily confused with an off flavour, but considering what I was asking about above; could it be possible to have a small amount, or even a tiny amount, of contamination being responsible for off flavour if we define contamination as &amp;quot;above a certain ( detectable ) threshold&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case then is it a case that we're trying to &lt;em&gt;reduce&lt;/em&gt; contamination rather than avoid it, &lt;strong&gt;or is it possible to avoid it &lt;em&gt;altogether&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - and &lt;strong&gt;is it a case that minute contaminations are common but to the degree that we eradicate these we are likely to get better tasting beers?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T17:06:14.670" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T09:24:38.360" Title="Are there levels of contamination in a beer or is it a case that it's either &quot;contaminated&quot; or &quot;not contaminated&quot;?" Tags="|fermentation|sanitation|off-flavor|wild-yeast|bacteria|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19076" CreationDate="2017-02-28T18:58:12.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, technically all beer is contaminated, since you pitch yeast.    And yes, I'd say pretty much all homebrew (and even commercial beer) is contaminated to some extent.  The type and severity of the contamination can vary, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T17:07:00.980" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T17:07:00.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19076" CreationDate="2017-02-28T21:15:49.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;YES.&#xA;All biological contamination (&lt;s&gt;infection&lt;/s&gt;) take time to do their thing. So yes there are levels of contamination. Acetobacter for example, can be at a range of non detectable to the palet to full on vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-14T09:24:38.360" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T09:24:38.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-28T22:04:36.727" Score="1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simpley stout from midwest supplies:tested bottle after 1 week. Sharp sparkeling bubbles like soda no foam. Oily residue on top after bubbles dissapate. Did add safe ale 05 to botteling bucket used belgian candi drops in bottels. Save it or pitch it??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14761" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T08:42:26.143" Title="Poor Carbonation" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19079" CreationDate="2017-02-28T22:20:11.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One week is a little early for any bottle.  I'd wait a couple more weeks before making a determination on keeping or chucking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14018" LastActivityDate="2017-02-28T22:20:11.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-01T00:57:55.610" Score="4" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to BJCP guide, a dry mead is a mead with FG approximately 0.995-1.010, and semi-sweet mead is 1.010-1.025.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a session/hydromel (with OG=1.050) mead finishing at 1.005. It is very light, but very rich on flavor, aroma and body due to the nature of the honey. It is also carbonated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the flavor it stars dry and effervescent, but has a long floral finish with noticeable sweetness. Let's say it starts like 1.005, but when the bubbles disappear on the tongue on the finish it feels like 1.010. In fact lack of alcohol  (6% abv) make the mead taste sweater then it is. Also, it seems that it is a totally a psychological trick, since a mind makes it feel sweeter then it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question, would it be still appropriate to enter a mead into a M1A (Dry Traditional) category, and what is the actual upper acceptable sweetness limit for dry meads? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T22:28:10.300" Title="Sweetness level for a dry mead" Tags="|mead|sweetness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-01T02:17:01.300" Score="4" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in brewing a whiskey or a brandy, but seeing commercial bottles being many years old is a put-off compared to the relatively quick ageing process of beer. So how little months/years can I get away with, assuming optimal ageing conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3078" LastActivityDate="2017-03-05T12:42:02.500" Title="What's the minimum amount of ageing for an acceptable whiskey or brandy?" Tags="|storage|aging|whiskey|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-01T02:23:45.533" Score="1" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a spray bottle of Iodophor, and a spray bottle of StarSan.  Is there any issue with the two products reacting with each other?  In other words, can I spray something with StarSan, and if I accidentally spray it again with Iodophor, is there any concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14762" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T08:07:49.950" Title="Iodophor and StarSan reaction?" Tags="|sanitation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-01T02:27:11.730" Score="1" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would to set up a boiler connected to a cornelius keg which would work as thumper    than to a condenser all with barbed connectors such as is on the cornelius keg....will it work to pass thru the gasses....I'm sure that larger pipes would work better   but I would like to start this way if it would work...what do you think ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14763" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2017-03-01T11:17:48.847" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T11:17:48.847" Title="Still setup with barbed connectors" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-03-11T16:27:57.797" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19082" CreationDate="2017-03-01T18:07:41.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never made whiskey nor brandy, but what I have seen is people forcing aging using charred  wood chips and cooling/heating cycles. This way the whiskey will penetrante the wood chips when it's heated and then leave it when it's cold (or the other way around),  doing this a couple of times you can get a decent amount of &quot;aging&quot;, of course it will not be real aging,but you will get extra flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you can store your whiskey for a couple of months/years  in small barrels, the advantage of small barrels over big ones is the surface area, which much greater the smaller the barrels is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14692" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T18:07:41.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19087" CreationDate="2017-03-02T00:10:20.480" Score="4" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;While getting a sample of beer for a hydrometer reading, I squeezed the turkey baster while it was in the beer, so it caused a bunch of bubbles. I did that twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything to worry about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T00:36:29.840" Title="Could this have oxidized the beer?" Tags="|fermentation|oxidation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19086" CreationDate="2017-03-02T00:36:29.840" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Anything to worry about?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, it's nothing to worry about at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Could this have oxidized the beer?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, technically, but to a really negligible amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much this &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; effect the beer depends on when during fermentation/conditioning this was. During primary it's really inconsequential. During conditioning may be &lt;em&gt;a tiny bit&lt;/em&gt; worse since the beer isn't vigorously evolving CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; to push away any introduced oxygen. But still, it won't make a huge (or probably even noticeable difference) in the end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home-brew tends to be consumed fast enough to make this kind of oxidation a non-issue. I appreciate worrying about it from a 'best-practice' kind of standpoint, and so (especially since you identify the potential downsides of what happened) you can, of course, try to avoid it in the future. But it really isn't something that should be of huge concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T00:36:29.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19095" CreationDate="2017-03-02T18:57:58.083" Score="1" ViewCount="532" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing a stout and using Safale US-05. Here in middle Georgia the weather is already plenty warm so I'm using a water bath to keep my wort at a stable temperature. I pitched this yeast at a temp of 60°F and planned to let the temp gradually grow 1-2 degrees per day until primary was finished. I'm on my fourth day of fermentation. Things seemed to be still going well until I checked my wort temp this morning and it was 69°F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was worried about the temperature rising too much while at work, so I chucked a frozen gallon jug in the water bath to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;neutralize&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the yeast activity, but I came home on my lunch break to find the wort temp at around 62°F. Obviously, I'm worried about the yeasties going down for a nap prematurely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'm curious how resilient is Safale US-05 to temperature drops.&lt;/strong&gt; I know some yeast strains can handle it, but 7 degrees feels like a lot to me. OG was 1.076 and fermentation didn't reach high krausen until yesterday morning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my fears are realized and fermentation stalls, should I raise the temp to 75°F and try to stir them up or keep the temp at 70°F and stir them up? What are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14436" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-04T15:30:40.050" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T15:30:40.050" Title="Safale US-05 Temperature Drop" Tags="|yeast|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17641" CreationDate="2017-03-02T19:00:49.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thickness is likely the bacteria, it's the slimy clear part. The yeast is the brown stringy part. Higher temperatures and sugar content are going to influence the consistency as well as your total volume of fluid. As others have noted, your scoby might be too big for the container and volume of tea. I use a 1 gallon jar and my scoby is about 3 inches thick. My brew cycle takes 7-10 days and I take out a little over half the volume of raw kombucha each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a note, higher temperatures will really speed up the brew, so keep that in mind and taste more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13498" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T19:00:49.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19094" CreationDate="2017-03-02T19:26:23.607" Score="1" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something went bad in my refrigerator.  I had about 4 or 5 ounces of hops in there for my next couple of batches.  Should I toss them? I'm kinda worried about that smell getting into my beer.  I've never seen it happen, but I have heard horror stories about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12902" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T07:17:17.620" Title="Bad food in the fridge! keep the hops or toss them?" Tags="|hops|off-flavor|refrigerator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-02T20:44:06.933" Score="2" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any specific hardware for mounting piping and/or tri-clamp to a wall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to have a tri-clamp tee in a fixed location on my wall - looking for hardware to secure it. Hoping to find something other than a couple worm clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6777" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T12:41:26.867" Title="Mounting a tri-clamp Tee fitting" Tags="|tubing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19090" CreationDate="2017-03-02T22:57:53.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be worried to use them - they're pretty pungent little fellows and I've never seen them pick up off-aromas. If they smell good to you, they're probably good. ESPECIALLY if they're going to hit the boil kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do well with anti-bacterial problems as well, so infection shouldn't be a big risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T22:57:53.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19090" CreationDate="2017-03-03T07:17:17.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops stored in a sealed packet in a fridge should be alright to use - even if the rest of the fridge is &quot;crawling&quot; with bugs. I say this because the hops grew in the open air and since picking have not been treated with anything &quot;antibacterial&quot; or &quot;anti-fungal&quot; (or should not have been). They are just dried and stored and sold. So the hops themselves are not aseptic - they just don't support a lot of bacterial/fungal life. Which is one reason they are used in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As has been said, if the hops are destined for the kettle then the boiling process will sterilise all. If one is going to use them to dry hop in the brew that should still be OK. If one was ultra paranoid about infections then one could microwave the dry hops for a short time (eg 15s) before adding. It works but might be considered a bit excessive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T07:17:17.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19088" CreationDate="2017-03-03T07:39:18.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing a stout using safale05 is a novel concept but no reason why it will not work. I think the wish to keep a particular temperature is reasonable but not overly necessary for a stout. I have brewed many stouts at ranges from 14C to 22C and the only thing I can say is that the fermentation takes longer at the lower temperatures. The taste for similar brews did not noticeably vary from batch to batch. One might say that stout is such a highly flavoured brew that minor variations are hardly noticeable. If one was brewing a black lager then the need to keep cool might be more pressing - but even then I did not find a variation of 5C over the course of the day/night made a great deal of difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fermentation &quot;stalls&quot; then rousing the yeast with a good stir can help. There is IMHO not need to get overly worried about exposing an active ferment to air. Use a clean paddle, take the top off the fermenting vessel and stir vigorously for 10s or so, aiming to get settled yeast fully distributed again. However the yeast should not &quot;stall&quot; if it is correctly chosen for attenuation in the planned brew and added in sufficient quantity and the wort was correctly aerated to start with. If the yeast really has &quot;stalled&quot; then warming up to near 20C is usually the best idea and if that does not work it is also possible to add a new starter batch of suitable yeast that has been shown to be active (ie the starter batch is actively bubbling). It is also possible to mix yeasts influence flavour and final ABV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T07:39:18.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19083" CreationDate="2017-03-03T08:07:49.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good question might be &quot;why&quot;? Why spray a thing with two different but essentially identically functioning products? Use one or the other - there would seem to be little point in keeping and using both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iodine and phosphoric acid don't react in any lasting and poisonous way in the amounts that might be encountered in this situation. Its a moot point but one might even say that both work better together than either alone.&#xA;However the iodine in the iodophor does form a complex with StarSans other ingredient - dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid and the toxicity of the complex is open to debate. IMHO in the very small amounts used to spray brewing equipment the risk is very low and I would suppose not much greater than the risk presented by any alkylbenzenesulphonic acid itself (as found in StarSan). So I personally would not be worried by this situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is not always practical, IMHO the best &quot;no rinse&quot; steriliser is boiling water. Even pasteurising at lower temps cures a multitude of &quot;brewing sins&quot; in an eco-friendly manner and with much less risk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T08:07:49.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19082" CreationDate="2017-03-03T08:31:41.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends what sort of whiskey one wants. A good whiskey is aged for about 8-10 years in barrels and requires that time to reach the flavour profile required for commercial sales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheaper whiskeys are aged less and it is not uncommon to find 3 and 5 year whiskey that are not unpalatable. But they are not like an aged whiskey which traditionally has &quot;none of the fire but all of the warmth&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if one want to convert &quot;moonshine&quot; into &quot;mountain whiskey in a quick manner the trick is possibly not to use burnt wood chips (OMG!?!) but to use walnut shells or better still the walnut inner &quot;diaphragm&quot; that is between the lobes of the walnut. Avoid using the walnut itself as it contains oils that make the product rather hazy. These &quot;woody&quot; hard parts of the nut are highly coloured and flavoured (more so than the tree wood) and often easily available in areas that produce walnuts. I have made a palatable &quot;psuedo-whiskey&quot; in 2 months using this technique. Highly coloured and quite well flavoured from just leaving the spirit sitting on the crushed walnut shells and inner bits. A good colour alone can be obtained in a few weeks. A large hand-full of broken shells to a litre of spirit is about right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brandy is a wide term used for distilled wine (whiskey is essentially distilled beer). Spanish type brandy can be synthesised by leaving &quot;moonshine&quot; over very dry sutanans for a few weeks. Don't use dried currents as the drink turns a fetching shade of purple. If you can get a Greek product called &quot;Petimezzo&quot; which is essentially boiled down grape juice (like maple syrup is made) then adding that to moonshine/vodka can produce a very reasonable brandy drink, something like Metaxa. Others have used honey and maple syrup but I am not sure that qualifies as either brandy or whiskey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T08:31:41.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19079" CreationDate="2017-03-03T08:42:26.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottled beer is best conditioned for at least a month after it has been bottled. The bottle should have been stored at or about room temperature for a few weeks during that time. There is no use storing/condtioning the bottle in (say) a fridge or cold cellar for the whole time. I have found that conditioned beers I initially thought were &quot;bad&quot; improved amazingly over the course of 6 months to a year - to the point where friends asked for them in preference to &quot;good&quot; beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem with some kits is that the amount of malt supplied can be rather low (to keep costs down) and so the beer can lack body and head retention. If so that can be easily cured by adding more malt (extract) to the brew - especially wheat malt extract. If that does not suit the style of beer required then body can be improved by adding more barley malt extract or even just maltodextrin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO there is rarely any need to add extra yeast at the bottling stage to produce carbonation. The yeast still in suspension (don't worry its there) will usually do the job just as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T08:42:26.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19101" CreationDate="2017-03-03T23:05:22.657" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have aged my bourbon brown in secondary with bourbon and wood chips thrown in, it's been aging for 6 months now.  It's time to bottle, is there anything I need to do differently than normal before bottling ?  I have yeast nutrition that I could add couple of days before bottling, but is that really needed ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2017-03-04T09:32:19.300" Title="Aged beer, yeast" Tags="|yeast|aging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6599" CreationDate="2017-03-04T02:47:45.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had the same thing happen to me so I emailed Five Star Chemicals to see if they thought it would be safe. They said that if it had happened before the fermentation then it would be ok because the yeast would break it down, but since it happened after the fermentation they legally have to say that it is not safe to drink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that you probably wouldn't suffer from any ill effects from drinking it, but it does contain a surfactant in addition to phosphoric acid which can be pretty nasty stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to mix my 5 gal batch with a 1 gal extract batch and re-pitch yeast in an attempt to breakdown the star san and at least salvage the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14775" LastActivityDate="2017-03-04T02:47:45.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19099" CreationDate="2017-03-04T09:32:19.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After long secondary, only change I world market would be to add fresh yeast slurry, either from vigorously fermenting batch, or from a packet of dry yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; add nutrients now. There is a high chance yeast will not eat them and you will be left with nutrient taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2017-03-04T09:32:19.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19082" CreationDate="2017-03-05T12:42:02.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may all depend on the volume of spirits you are trying to age. There is a difference is ageing and when the spirits are bottled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://moonshinedistiller.com/blog/age-your-own-whiskey/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How long does it take to age your own whiskey?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is a tricky questions to answer, as it can take anywhere from 2 weeks to several years. However, small batch distillers definitely have the advantage here. When you are making whiskey in smaller batches, excellent results only take a fraction of the time they would at larger commercial distilleries. This is due to the larger surface area of charred oak to volume of spirits that can fit inside. The larger the barrel, the smaller that ratio gets and the more time the whiskey will need in that barrel. For example, a whiskey aged in our 2L barrel will probably only take a couple weeks, whereas whiskey aged in our 10L barrel will probably take a couple months, and a commercial whiskey in a 53 gallon barrel takes 2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As with everything in distilling there are a lot of variables, but only one matters in the end. And that is the taste of your final product. Believe it or not, if you leave it for too long, you can impart too much wood flavor into the whiskey. It is generally best to draw a small sample from the barrel every week or two so you can see how it is aging. Once it has the color and taste you are looking for, you can transfer it to a glass jar or bottle for longer storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, it will all come down to your own personal taste and the volume you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2017-03-05T12:42:02.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11019" CreationDate="2017-03-05T12:56:55.517" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My grandfather, who was also a bootlegger during prohibition, used to make huge batches of apple jack in wooden barrels. He said they'd smash up ripe apples, fill the barrels to the top, packed with the crushed apples, and then add well water until it just showed. Then they'd pour in &quot;A shit-load of sugar&quot; my grandfathers words, and lay the barrel top loosely on....and wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it stopped fermenting, they'd pour the pulp and liquid through hardware cloth first, then feed the pulp to the pigs. They'd strain it again through doubled, washed burlap feed sacks, then return it to the barrels which had been scrubbed out and scalded with boiling water. The cover was tamped down tight on the barrels now. Waited for freezing weather. In Minnesota this usually started late October, early November.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every morning, grandpa would go out there and break up the ice that formed, discard it, and re-cover the barrels. Eventually he'd get an end-product that had &quot;A goddamn good kick&quot;, again, grandpa's words, and they'd bottle it in old molasses jugs. He claimed a batch made this way rarely went bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14777" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-03-06T08:58:29.407" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T08:58:29.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19107" CreationDate="2017-03-06T09:43:23.303" Score="1" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make my own malt, but I'm a little unsure of how long I should be steeping the barley grain as different websites suggest different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BeerSmith says to steep for 2 hours, whereas BYO suggests steeping for 8 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is better to get the most out of the grain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14780" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T14:37:47.087" Title="Question about steeping time for making your own Malt?" Tags="|malt|steeping|barley|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2017-03-06T12:51:50.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bumped into this discussion, just want to point out that a local Czech distiller Žufánek has such a product in his portfolio:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lepsinalada.cz/247-medovy-zufanek-05l/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.lepsinalada.cz/247-medovy-zufanek-05l/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The name of the product is &quot;Medový&quot;, which is an adjective form of the Czech word &quot;med&quot; that simply means honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this particular product is a licqueur, that means it is not a pure, straight distillate, but rarther a mead distillate flavored with honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer - I am not in any way affiliated with Mr. Žufánek's distillery, and this is not an advertisement campaign, I just used this example to point out that the discussed distillate is produced commercially and has a name (however improvised and local). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the same distiller also produces an absinthe called &quot;Mead Base Absinthe&quot; that uses mead distillate as the base alcohol of choice, rather than the more common grain or grape neutral spirit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14781" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T12:51:50.190" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2017-03-06T12:51:50.190" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19105" CreationDate="2017-03-06T14:30:55.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A question akin to &quot;how long is a piece of string?&quot; I hope knowledgeable readers will forgive me rehearsing the &quot;received wisdom&quot;. Malting is the process of causing the barley seed to sprout and in the process release/produce enzymes (basically &quot;amylase&quot; and perhaps &quot;protease&quot;) that &lt;em&gt;inter alia&lt;/em&gt; can be used to convert contained starch to fermentable sugars. So to a large extent the efficiency of the malting process can be judged by the diastatic power of the resulting dried malt. The thing that sets malt apart from roast grain and unmalted grain is that diastatic power - the ability to convert starch in the grain into fermantable sugar when mashed in solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given all that the question can be put in context. How to make the grain sprout, keep it fresh long enough to let the biochemistry work and then dry it quickly as possible to preserve all the good work. Mouldy malt is not very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question concerns steeping the grain in water. The grain is usually submerged in water for some time. It seems not to really matter as long as the period is no longer than (say) 12 hours. But that is temperature dependant - cooler allows for slightly longer and heat would shorten the optimal time. The problem, it seems, being spoilage (fermentation?) of the grain by wild yeasts (etc.) in solution. So draining the grain before that can happen is the most limiting factor for soaking time. There is some argument that submerging the grain in water for too long might cause it to &quot;over hydrates&quot; making it split and become &quot;mushy&quot;. That would require more than a day so 8 hours would seem to be a good upper limit for any initial soaking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice the grain needs to be soaked to efficiently hydrate the dried seed kernel and initiate germination. That is most efficiently done under water but it can be done by continuous spraying/draining for a similar time. Once initiated the germination process requires oxygen. So keeping the grain underwater would inhibit that requirement. However the germination process also requires water and over a few days the grain is likely to dry out and inhibit further necessary biological processes. So a close observation must be kept on the malting grain to make sure it does not dry out before it has correctly sprouted. How quickly grain can dry out is a local, usually meteorological, factor and not every prescribed malting method fits every situation. If one makes malt in a particular location many times then a &quot;process pattern&quot; starts to emerge. In practice one can start with any recommended plan and see how it goes. Just keep an eye on the grain for sprouting (good) and moulding (bad). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a recommendation, I would advise steeping fresh grain for less time than long stored (old) grain. Fresh grain would probably only require 2 hours of so of soaking. Older dried grain may well benefit for a longer soak. Other brewers I know here in UK have left the grain soaking &quot;overnight&quot; and have not reported a problem. Most brewers (amateur maltsters?) I have talked to do a second soak a day or two after the first soak - but only for a hour or less. Some soak for an hour three times in 3 days. That makes sure the grain is fully hydrated (but not water logged) and can deter/wash off any surface moulds that may be developing. After two/three days of wetting the grain they begin to air dry the malted grain. After about 5 days being turned on an open tray/boarded area, the grain is fully dried(kilned?) in a very low temperature oven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diastatic power of home made malt can vary widely and is usually only optimal or repeatable after a number of runs using variously sourced grains in varying conditions. It also requires a reasonable amount of space (not the kitchen table!) for a week. It can be a &quot;fiddly process&quot; getting it right but great fun once cracked and a viable/optimal localised procedure has been confirmed.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-03-06T14:37:47.087" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T14:37:47.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-06T21:49:13.827" Score="1" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just started an Coopers Amber Ale. Started out good....bubbled profusely for 2 maybe 3days and then just stopped? It slowed down to almost no bubbling in the airlock. Did take a sample from the tap and its down to 1012 on the hydrometer. Will do another this afternoon. Is the sudden slowing down of bubbling in the airlock a problem? Id prefer not to open the fermenter. What else could be an indication that something went wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14490" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T16:50:26.827" Title="Fermentation issues" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4536" CreationDate="2017-03-06T23:21:40.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people that I know do open fermentation, when they are making wine.  Every few days they take gravity measurements and stir their Batch. That is also what I do and yeast, does what yeast does.  And as always, sanitize everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14783" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T23:21:40.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19108" CreationDate="2017-03-07T03:11:25.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like it is done to me. I have had some fermentations slow gradually, but lately they tend to go very fast then slow suddenly. Taste your next sample. If it tastes OK, then everything is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14784" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T03:11:25.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-07T03:21:52.897" Score="2" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking of making orange wine. I have found a few recipes online, though I'm not sure if these recipes make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homefarmer.co.uk/orange-wine-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://homefarmer.co.uk/orange-wine-recipe/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two more:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/reques33.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/reques33.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first recipe listed seems to use a lot of sugar - 3 pounds for 6.5 pints (I think that will come to ~ 3 litres, &amp;lt; 1 gallon). And then there's the juice from oranges on top of that, which will have more sugar!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first recipe on the second page I linked calls for just over 1 pound for a total of 1 gallon of liquid (including the juice from the oranges).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then the second recipe on the second page also calls for 3 pounds of sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason that orange wine recipes seem to call for so much sugar? Is it likely that the sugar will be consumed during fermentation, producing a dry, high-alcohol drink, or is the quantity of sugar so high to ensure a sweeter final product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT: &amp;quot;Way-back Machine&amp;quot; archive.org links, as originals are offline&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20171111153551/https://homefarmer.co.uk/orange-wine-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://web.archive.org/web/20171111153551/https://homefarmer.co.uk/orange-wine-recipe/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two more:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20200112160234/http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/reques33.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://web.archive.org/web/20200112160234/http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/reques33.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2020-11-13T23:57:24.847" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T23:57:24.847" Title="Orange wine - do these recipes make sense?" Tags="|wine|fruit|fruit-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19111" CreationDate="2017-03-07T11:02:54.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just fermenting orange juice alone won't get you into a &quot;wine&quot; like strength.  There isn't enough sugar in pure OJ alone.  So these recipes include the addition of sugar to get the alcohol up.  And yes the sugar will get &quot;consumed during fermentation&quot;  to be more accurate... it will get fermented.  It is not likely to be a sweet finishing product as the pure sugar is completely fermentable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T11:02:54.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-07T15:59:00.760" Score="2" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been googling for that for a while but I can't find what I'm searching for, namely an online store selling concentrate of cider apples, I am referring to the specific varieties used only for cider like Crimson King and similars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can find plenty of the normal apple concentrate online and in the supermarket, here in the Netherlands we call it &quot;diksap&quot; (&quot;dik&quot; means thick, LOL), I would like to try getting the flavour of the English cider I can buy bottled or of the Northern Spanish one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14760" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T18:57:19.777" Title="Concentrate made of cider apples in the EU or UK?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19108" CreationDate="2017-03-07T16:50:26.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What makes you think that something went wrong? It is normal for the fermentation to slow down, specially if you are close to your final gravity.  The speed of fermentation can vary for several reasons, no problem there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to do, is to take one gravity reading per day and if the gravity doesn't change for 3 days in a row, the fermentation is done. No need to take a reading more than once a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the taste, if you use a Cooper primary fermenter with a spigot at the bottom, the yeast tends to accumulate in there, which would make your sample taste &quot;yeasty&quot;.  Use a wine thief to get a sample from above to avoid that. &#xA;For the same reason, I would not use the spigot for bottling either, unless it was cleaned before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T16:50:26.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19119" CreationDate="2017-03-08T15:20:23.553" Score="0" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the fermentation my mash stopped bubbling after 5 days! Can yeast be added? I think I didn't put enough the first time!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14791" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T09:39:42.273" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T09:39:42.273" Title="Lack of Yeast Fermenation" Tags="|yeast|sugar|corn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19117" CreationDate="2017-03-08T16:20:44.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, I assume you mean &quot;wort&quot; not mash  After 5 days it might very well be done fermenting.  What temperature did you ferment at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-03-08T16:20:44.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19117" CreationDate="2017-03-08T20:23:25.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to tell if fermentation is done is by taking hydrometer readings. If the gravity numbers don't change over 2-3 days, it's done. Do you know what the target final gravity is? If fermentation is done and you're close on the final gravity, then no worries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastActivityDate="2017-03-08T20:23:25.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-09T12:36:02.703" Score="2" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a small experimental 1 gallon BIAB batch of something like an Amber Ale.  According to one article I've found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Description of Typical Grain Bill&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Amber Ale is traditionally made with American two row pale malt as the&#xA;  base, making up 60-85% of the grain bill. Medium to dark crystal malts&#xA;  are used to provide color and caramel flavor, typically making up&#xA;  10-20% of the grain bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Proposed Grain Bill&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 lbs. Briess Organic 2-Row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 lb.  Briess Caramel 60L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 lb.  Crisp Amber Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to follow the amounts above, which would put my base malt at 66% and medium/dark malts at 33% (higher than normal for this style), what would I get? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it simply be a darker than normal Amber Ale or would it cross into another style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14719" LastEditorUserId="14719" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T12:53:53.553" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T13:10:37.093" Title="Would this grain bill make an Amber Ale?" Tags="|all-grain|recipe-formulation|biab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19120" CreationDate="2017-03-09T13:10:37.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figure approximately 20-22 SRM.  You might be pushing the color a bit towards the darker end, but it will work I think.  Maybe go to 7oz each of the C60 and the Amber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T13:10:37.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19092" CreationDate="2017-03-09T17:31:19.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing what size piping or tri-clamp you're working with, you could probably go with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Arctic-Cove-1-2-in-Hanging-Mount-5-Pack-MAC400HM/204767991&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1/2&quot; pipe mounts&lt;/a&gt; or many of the options &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=stainless%20steel%20pipe%20hanger&amp;amp;oq=stainless%20steel%20pipe%20hanger&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60l2.5150j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=stainless%20steel%20pipe%20hanger&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;*&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I found here&lt;/a&gt;. There's a lot of options for securing pipes to your wall — what would probably help you most is to figure out what your requirements are for securing the pipe and/or TC.  Size, mobility, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T17:31:19.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-12T07:49:36.187" Score="3" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem, that has been pestering me for some months now. My beer gushes from time to time. For example, in one batch i have some bottles that will gush very quickly, some slowly and others not at all. The taste in all bottles is as it should be. No offlavours etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sanitize everything with starsan. Bottles are placed on copper tubes, through which starsan is pumped. I dont think i over prime. The amount of table sugar is calculated is Beersmith, which is then boiled with water for sterilisation. When i mix the solution with beer, I usually mix it for 30-60 min so the solution is really homogenous. Usual batch size is 50 liters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do guys have any experience with such problems and what was the solution to them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading, that malt can be infected with fusarium fungi, which produces protein called hydrophobins that causes gushing. I checked the grains and none have any symptoms of the infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any answers.&#xA;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14697" LastActivityDate="2018-05-14T05:56:03.057" Title="Problems with gushing" Tags="|beer|foam|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19124" CreationDate="2017-03-12T16:40:21.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're completely certain about everything else, about all that's left is incomplete fermentation.  Is that a possibility?  Although that would tend to affect every bottle.  I think I'd have to got with either contamination despite your efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And why do you bother mixing the priming solution so long?  A minute or so shoule be more than adequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T16:40:21.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-13T02:47:09.060" Score="0" ViewCount="965" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last two batches I have brewed have been 1 gallon batches using carb drops. I have used these before a handful of times without issue but the last two seem over carbonated and leave a funny taste in my mouth that's reminiscent of helium or CO2 rather. Tho, from what I have read, the carb drops are &quot;great&quot; because they can help with consistency and avoid over carbonating. Is it possible these off flavors could be related to something else? The current beer I'm referencing has been bottled for 4 weeks now. Is it possible the flavor is still maturing and this carbonated taste will dial back a bit in time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced anything similar? I'm having a hard time explaining this taste and could be off entirely on its origin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13956" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T09:59:02.997" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T02:57:46.003" Title="Off flavors that seem to be related to carbonation drops" Tags="|carbonation|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19126" CreationDate="2017-03-13T17:45:06.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never tasted helium or CO2, so I don't know exactly what flavors you are referring to. I used to get off-flavors when I drank recently bottled beer carbonated with drops. The beer would taste faintly of green apple. Similar to how young beer tastes, but not very strong. As I recall, these flavors went away after 4 weeks or so. This was a couple years ago. I don't remember time precisely. The time it takes for beer to ferment or carbonate depends on ABV, sugar content, and yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another other possibility is that your beer got infected. How was your sanitation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that you restarted fermentation with the addition of extra sugar. Adding bottling sugar is supposed to restart a small fermentation that only ferments the bottling sugar. If your yeast had prematurely stalled before reaching your target final gravity, the small fermentation wouldn't have to be that small. This could explain your over-carbonated beer. What was your target FG and your actual FG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that these flavors will go away on their own? Based on what you have told me it is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14166" LastActivityDate="2017-03-13T17:45:06.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19132" CreationDate="2017-03-13T23:20:55.993" Score="1" ViewCount="1551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tasted my cider today and if I could bottle it now I would. The only problem is that the gravity is at 1.012. My concern is that I could create bottle bombs if I bottled it now. Is it possible to bottle it as is (without additional priming sugars), assuming that most of the sugars are fermentable? The last cider I did was too dry at 1.0015. I am trying to avoid the same mistake twice. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13026" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T15:15:57.213" Title="What is too high a gravity to bottle condition cider?" Tags="|cider|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19126" CreationDate="2017-03-14T09:36:43.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Helium or CO2 is not something I have ever seen described as a off flavor. Yeast does not produce Helium but CO2 it produces in plenty, but that is hardly an undesired thing when carbonating :D. Green apple will usually go away, if that is the taste you are having.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you need to describe the flavor a bit further. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14807" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-03-14T14:29:01.287" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T14:29:01.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19124" CreationDate="2017-03-14T09:49:41.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some beer bottles where a lot of hop fragments had made it to the bottle. The extra surface of the hops made the bubbles start of the yeast and hops in the bottom. The bottom derbies would start to get disturbed by the bubbles and mix into the beer creating more surface area that bubbles could form on... beercano.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a high gravity beer with oaths added for extra mouth feel. I did taste the remains of the beer no other off flavor than a lot of yeast due to that mixing in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14807" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T09:49:41.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-14T10:05:56.757" Score="1" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have made a couple of beers with Belle Saison yeast and have seen a couple of posts about this and other belgian yeast producing funky flavor. After having tasted my own beer I have to agree, there is differently a flavor that I can not define as anything else than funk. I'm not yet certain if I dislike it or actualy like it but I do lik that the beer gets dryer. In any case two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know what this flavor comes from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it develop on the bottle and if so how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14807" LastActivityDate="2017-04-06T07:49:35.557" Title="Belgian funk taste" Tags="|flavor|belgian|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19128" CreationDate="2017-03-14T14:59:57.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this cider made similarly as the cider you made previously, or have you changed things with the recipe and how it is made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wolud be very afraid that the yeast would continue working on the remianing sugars and try to bring it down to 1.0015 in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not made any ciders but with beer you always want the yeast to finish of more or less all the sugar it can eat. Short of killing off the yeast and then carbonating with CO2 afterwards that is the best way of controlling carbon content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Killing off the yeast can have other bad consequences for taste though as the yeast might not be done eating up byproducts and cleaning up the taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In beer you &quot;control&quot; sweetens with mashing temperature (producing more or less fermentable sugars) and the yeast strain used. In addition hop can have an influence over the perceived sweetens of the final brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remembered one more way to control sweetens. Adding sugar the yeast can't eat. What sugar that is may depend on yeast strain. Dextrin or lactose might work.but do so long before putting it in a bottle,  and make certain you do not get an infection in the bottles. Carbonation from bacteria can also produce botlebombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14807" LastEditorUserId="14807" LastEditDate="2017-03-14T15:15:57.213" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T15:15:57.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19131" CreationDate="2017-03-14T18:07:10.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is somewhat the desired outcome for a Belgian yeast to do.  The amount of &quot;funk&quot; is always up to each individual.  I have used this particular strain to make Saison and Witbier styles with good results, although each of these styles in my opinion are at the low end of funky Belgian styles.  The temperature of fermentation, cleanliness, grain bill, all play a part in the flavor profile.  Compare some Belgian beers off the shelf to yours and see if you see some similarities and take note of the differences. You may have an infected beer combined with the Belgian profile.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14527" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T18:07:10.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19124" CreationDate="2017-03-14T23:01:44.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like mold would be killed during the brewing process, so I'm not sure that's the root cause, though your malt should probably not have black spots on it ;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to have this problem as well, although not since I switched to all-grain, and also not since I started filtering my water before using it. I've gotten advice from a friend who employs a master brewer that high iron content in the water can cause gushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I can think of barring incomplete fermentation is what ElvishPriestly said, which is lots of sediment in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14808" LastEditorUserId="14808" LastEditDate="2017-03-14T23:15:09.300" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T23:15:09.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19140" CreationDate="2017-03-15T09:15:18.927" Score="2" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not have much opportunity in the way of temperature control when it comes to fermentation but I do have a hallway where if I close the door I get around 13°C ambient (measured about 40cm above the floor). I'm wondering if there are any yeast and beer styles I can make that would be okay at this temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried about both diacetyl and sulphur but guess I could bring the fermentor into a room that is closer to 20-22°C for a diacetyl rest after primary fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14807" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T15:51:03.283" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T15:51:03.283" Title="Beer made at around 13°C (55°F)" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19137" CreationDate="2017-03-15T09:28:44.220" Score="3" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pns3X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pns3X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hello. I have been brewing for a few months and your advice has been extremely valuable. Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a question about glass bottles such as this one in the photo. I bleach them between use and have noted that some have developed this bubble pattern, which is permanent. Is it due to a coating on the glass? Is it hazardous to use these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rob&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14810" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-03-15T17:04:42.653" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T17:04:42.653" Title="Bubbles within glass" Tags="|cleaning|bottles|glass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19136" CreationDate="2017-03-15T09:46:20.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have not had this happen to me, are you certain this is a change in the glass and not something being stuck on it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be tempted to break one and get a closer look/feel/scratch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do notice that you are using clear glass bottles this is in general not considered good practices for beer as the hop has a substance that under light will turn into the same substance that skunks spray out. Not certain that this has anything to do with those bubbles tho.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14807" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T09:46:20.817" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19135" CreationDate="2017-03-15T13:19:15.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most beers/yeasts will ferment at 13C - it is just that they will do it much more slowly and the more aromatic compounds like &quot;fruity esters&quot; may not be produced in such concentrations at lower temps. However 13 is not a very low temperature. Lager yeast can ferment at temperature as low a 5C. But it tends to take a few months at that temperature to make a dry and crisp beer. The reason most brewers brew at a temp range between (say) 18 - 22C is because it is efficient and produces beer in a week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cool/cold temperature was a particular concern then an electrically heated Brew Belt or Brew Mat can be used to keep the fermentation vessel warm. Either by itself or using some form of insulation (blanket/duvet?). I have even seen an old electric blanket being used to wrap and heat a 50L fermentation bin. Some have even incorporated a form of thermostat to try to keep a more even temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO there is no real need to worry too much about producing diacetyl or sulphur containing compounds during fermentation. They exist but usually not in the way we imagine (or are told). For example diacetyl is supposed to be an &quot;off flavour&quot; but plenty of it is used in food flavouring and &quot;butterscotch&quot; is consumed world wide. In fact The Tadcaster brewery makes a point of saying their beer is brewed to have a faint diacetyl nose and flavour. As for DMS and other sulphurous compounds I have yet to smell (or taste) any outside of lactobacillius fermentations - even though DMS has been credited for giving lager its unique taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one important thing I have discovered about beer is that it usually improves with a reasonably long conditioning period. A week in the bottle is IMHO much to short. A more useful conditioning period would be 2 months in a bottle. After that time many &quot;off flavours&quot; initially reported are found to have disappeared &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-03-15T13:26:41.407" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T13:26:41.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19136" CreationDate="2017-03-15T13:52:01.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I cleaned demi-johns and glass bottles by soaking in a solution of PBW and hypochlorite bleach I noticed a build up of some insoluble compound on the surface of the glass that looked similar to the photo above. Some sort of hard, waxy substance that was relatively difficult to scrub off. I have since stopped using  bleach and all my newer bottles are OK. One neat way to sterilise demijohns (if you have a unit big enough) is to microwave them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does vigorous scrub with a demi-john bottle brush and a cleaning agent like PBW do anything? it may be worth trying if previously not attempted?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T13:52:01.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19135" CreationDate="2017-03-15T19:58:30.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply put you have a perfect situation for lager brewing and lager yeast strains.&#xA;Its easy to warm up a fermentor to reduce sulfur or diacetyl should the ferment not get strong enough to either off gas or clean up those compounds during the ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest staying away from some of the more characterful ale strains (Saison, Hefe, Wit, English and Belgian) as they won't really properly express themselves at the cooler temp.  You will get beer but not the right yeast character for the those styles.  American Ale yeasts or German Ale (specifically Kolsch) would probably work well at 13C as long as you start with a pretty big pitch.  The same as you would if you were going to brew a lager at that temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T09:57:19.450" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T09:57:19.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3598" CreationDate="2017-03-16T00:05:47.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's not forget ladies and gents that &quot;Ale&quot; is the term for beers fermented with a top fermenting yeast. The terms Ginger Ale and Ginger Beer are more or less interchangeable (unless of course you decided to make a ginger lager...) Traditionally a &quot;small beer&quot; with a negligible alcohol content calling it ginger beer or ginger ale has no reference to alcohol content! It would be most consistent to refer to an alcoholic ginger beer as such. But as long as the word police don't come knocking, you can call it whatever you want. That won't change the fact that it is what it is. Happy brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14814" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T00:05:47.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19145" CreationDate="2017-03-16T13:08:39.137" Score="3" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the second time I'm doing a no-boil, fast lacto sour. I had nearly 3 lbs of grain (with about 9% acid malt) for a 1 gallon batch. I did BIAB for 1 hour and put right into a fermenter. I let it cool down to about 100 °F and pitched 2 pills of Lactobacillus plantarum from Swanson Probiotics. It sits in a room without A/C, so the heat remains fairly high especially now with a heat wave in Southern California. Day 2 I added 2 more lacto pills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3a9XqTR_zKFYUxlOTV0a01zY0U/view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a pic from day 3, which looks fairly normal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lHtCs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lHtCs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Normal Picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On day 4, I noticed a patch of cotton-looking growth at the top left of this &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3a9XqTR_zKFODhDYk5oeEdQU00/view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;picture&lt;/a&gt; (hard to notice):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMF3m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMF3m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cotton-looking growth at the top left&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;pH dropped from 4.54 on day 1 to 3.57 on day 4. I tasted a little sample from day 4 and I can taste the sourness. The smell seems normal: there is no vomit, fecal smell, but rather earthiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I remove that cotton growth? Keep it and boil? Just let it go normally? Last year I did this same method (BIAB, no boil, lacto, saison yeast, dry hop) but with L. delbrueckii and had a great success. But with this cotton thing, I'm slightly concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12524" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T16:03:10.907" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:03:10.907" Title="Cotton looking mold on my sour" Tags="|sour|lactobacillus|mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="45" CreationDate="2017-03-16T13:14:15.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe this is a bit late but I do not use sanitizer on the bucket I use for fermentation. I pour the hot worth right into the bucket with the coil chiller in the bucket. Same goes for the thermometer I use to find the correct pitching temp I hold it in the hot worth til it is chilled letting the heat take care of sanitizing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some do worry about aerating hot worth and try to avoid splashing but according to exbeeriments on this appears not to be a big issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than this I would agree with the above posts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that for the worth chiller I wash and sanitize the upper part of it as water can condense on the pipe and drip down into the worth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14807" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T15:47:35.840" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T15:47:35.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9639" CreationDate="2017-03-17T08:42:46.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take a sponge and cut a 1.5 inch long and width is approximately the ID of my hose.  I stuff this into my hose (wet it first) then stick it in my faucet and let the water pressure push the sponge through the hose.  Do this a couple times and any little fragments that may be stuck on inside of the tube come loose.  I do it right after I use it before it has a chance to dry.  Ditto on above about flushing and star san before next use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14450" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T08:42:46.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19142" CreationDate="2017-03-17T12:10:51.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO mould growth is not often fatal to brewing but you should remove the fungal mycelium, preferably before it spores, with (e.g.) a spoon and continue fermentation. Seems like a lot of air/head space above the brew in the bucket. Maybe worth using a smaller container to assist the build up of CO2 and make the protective &quot;gas blanket&quot; that CO2 provides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T12:10:51.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5819" CreationDate="2017-03-17T12:59:00.590" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;www.yourbrew.co.uk is the best i have found in Europe for the moment. Free delivery over 35 pounds in all countries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14815" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T12:59:00.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19058" CreationDate="2017-03-17T18:02:47.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if you're wanting a backsweetened and carbonated mead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest method is to use a homebrew kegging system. Keg systems use tanks of CO2 to force carbonated liquid to a desired level, which does not require the yeast's services in any way. This is good since the first step of the backsweetening process effectively eliminates the fermentation capabilities of the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kegging systems (w/o the kegs) appear to run anywhere from $70-$250 (and I'm sure you can spend more) depending on what you buy:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.org/Kegging-Kits-no-kegs_c_447.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homebrewing.org/Kegging-Kits-no-kegs_c_447.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not endorsing homebrewing.org, just providing a sample for how much the kegging systems cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14817" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T18:02:47.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7183" CreationDate="2017-03-18T15:52:05.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the same problem and figured out what caused the dark color and terrible flavour. I see your original post was years back but I hope this helps you and other brewers. I primarily brew IPAs and had the same problem. The beer would turn dark and develop a very bad flavor that's hard to describe after bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(FYI If you bottle conditioned at constant  colder temperatures this probably won't help...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well any time that happened I stored the bottles at room temperature where temps ranged from 65-75F. I brewed a couple batches recently and stored all bottles in my colder basement and all beer stored in the cool temperature has been fine with no unwanted changes in color and flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed a couple bottles and exposed them to higher temps and.. you guessed it.. the beer turned dark and developed the unpleasant taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So try to keep all bottles in a cooler temp, id say around 40-50F. It doesn't solve the problem completely because there's obviously something in the beer causing the chemical reactions that causes the bad flavor, but storing at colder temps should help and not kick off those reactions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also lowered the temperature of the sparge water just in case I was extracting tannins, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14821" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-03-19T08:15:46.650" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T08:15:46.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="88" CreationDate="2017-03-20T22:33:15.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be another case: if you are doing a batch that will sit in a basement for a year, e.g. a big Belgian strong ale, or the like you most likely need to get it off the yeast cake.  A brewing friend of mine did a Belgian Strong Ale a few years ago, and he let it sit in a cool dark basement in primary for over a year.  When he finally went to keg it, he said it was ruined due to off flavors (I assume autolysis).  Maybe this is an another example of what Palmer means by a &quot;secondary fermentation&quot; but I thought I would mention it (I was so looking forward to tasting that batch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8412" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T22:33:15.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19058" CreationDate="2017-03-22T12:29:06.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go for 1 add sugar the yeast you are using can't metabolize. My local brew store has got lactose they sell for this purpose. In beer making it is usually used in making milk stouts. Be careful that you do not get any lactobacillus in the batch tho. This may be of interest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/2005-11/1132509463.Cb.r.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/2005-11/1132509463.Cb.r.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably other better sources for this to. You could possibly also use darker DME as it contains sugar the yeast cant metabolize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have not heard of using method 2 not certain how easy it would be to get an even distribution of CO2 from one bottle to the next. If you tried to disolve it in the fermentor bukket I wuld not think you get enough presure in it to keep the CO2 in the batch. and It may end up gushing all over the place. you may be able to get this to work in a keg but again I would be afraid of it starting to fome up immediately after hitting the beer. Probably best to use a proper keging system with CO2 bottle. Plus freezer burns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the third method you will have difficulty with both how much CO2 you get plus the yeast usually produces compounds that it later eats up that can be detrimental to taste. Usually it will produce these other things till the consecration of ferment able sugars is low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14807" LastActivityDate="2017-03-22T12:29:06.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-23T21:02:03.950" Score="0" ViewCount="4580" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use normal yeast from tesco (for baking) to make vodka?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to try making it in a 2 litre bottle since I'm space limited but could buy a 5 litre bottle in the future. How much of the yeast and how sugar would I need to add to a 2 litre bottle to make a decent amount of vodka? How much time would it take to brew and how strong would it be? Also whats the easiest way to make a DIY airlock thing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have absolutely no experience except from youtube videos so I could really use some hints. I want to place it in a cabinet in my desk so I'm space limited but I'm thinking of getting even eight 2 litre bottles and having a total output of 16 litres in the end depending how much vodka each bottle produces&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14838" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2017-03-23T21:18:11.823" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T00:52:50.407" Title="Make vodka with baking yeast?" Tags="|vodka|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2017-03-25T09:57:57.580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19151" CreationDate="2017-03-23T22:22:04.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing is only a smal part of making vodka. You also ned to destil what you have brewed. Regular baking yeast can make alcohol but it is better to use yeast for wine. This yeast will give you a higer alcohol content before you start to distil. If you want something drinkable after destilling use a charcoal filter in the end and throw away the first part of what you distil. Note that destilling alcohol  can be illegal where you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14807" LastActivityDate="2017-03-23T22:22:04.973" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19151" CreationDate="2017-03-24T00:01:43.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mention by EP, there is more to Vodka than just adding yeast to something. The Homebrewing Q&amp;amp;A doesn't address distilling questions in general, only products resulting from fermentation process.  However, I can answer your other questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wine or Beer Yeast is usually cheap to buy and produces better results, so I wouldn't make anything from baking yeast.  I recommend using Wine Yeast to reach higher alcohol content.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast-bank/wlp099-super-high-gravity-ale-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This yeast&lt;/a&gt; can reach 25% of alcohol, not all yeasts can reach that high.  All quantities required and instructions are indicated on the package. Usually, a package is made for a 20L batch, so 2L would require 1/10 of a package.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make your own airlock, you can take a look at this post for details: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4285/homemade-airlock#comment24249_4285&quot;&gt;Homemade Airlock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know nothing about distilling, please don't try it, there is a danger of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abc.net.au/local/audio/2013/06/13/3781104.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;methanol poisoning&lt;/a&gt;.  At least, read and learn about it on sites likes this one : &lt;a href=&quot;http://homedistiller.org/intro/steps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://homedistiller.org&lt;/a&gt; and if you do it one day, do it right (I have seen so much garbage on YouTube!).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:00.973" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T00:52:50.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-24T11:27:34.850" Score="3" ViewCount="1115" Body="&lt;p&gt;tomorrow I'll brew an English style IPA with extract.&#xA;I want to dry-hop in the conditioning phase, so, considering I'm using S04 on a small batch, I'll probably add the hops on Wednesday. It should be more than finished by then according to my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;do you think it's ok if I dry-hop in the primary?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;how long should I dry hop for?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch size is 10 liters and I was thinking of dry-hopping 15 grams of EKG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14772" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T16:13:38.443" Title="Quick advice for dry-hopping and racking to secondary" Tags="|dry-hop|primary-fermentation|ipa|racking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19154" CreationDate="2017-03-24T12:36:54.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry-hopping in primary is fine.  Many people don't rack to a secondary fermentation vessel anymore unless they're actually adding additional fermentables.  In fact, dry-hopping before primary-fermentation is complete (even at high krausen) is sometimes recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of timing I've seen many different recommendations, generally in reference to time before packaging (bottling or kegging).  Somewhere between 3 to 7 days before packaging seems pretty normal.  Some people fear that dry-hopping for longer (7+ days) can contribute to a grassy flavor in the final beer and err on the shorter side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/10/26/dry-hop-length-long-vs-short-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;In a Brulosophy exBEERiment&lt;/a&gt; they tested the differences between short- and long-dry-hopped beers and found that though there seemed to be noticeable differences it was more a matter of preference than anything.  Maybe the results there can give you some hints as to how you might want to go based on what you want out of your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T12:36:54.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19154" CreationDate="2017-03-24T14:02:07.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use SO4 a lot.  As you seem to know, its a quick fermenter.  You might want to add your hops a little sooner to get some of the O2 scrubbing potential as the yeast are finishing up.  Maybe Monday is a better choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping then in primary is required. I'd let it go a full week from that point.  If possible you could start a cold crash which would help bring some of the hops down if you used pellets.  If you are using whole hops then they won't settle but they are easier to rack from below them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T14:02:07.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-24T15:14:48.260" Score="0" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started a Saison with the intent to sour it.  I put it in primary (plastic tub) and airlocked.  I had the sour yeast ready to go, waited a little long (past expiration date on package) and just totally forgot about the saison for a bout a month and when I checked on it, the airlock was dry.  At this point i read up on open fermentation and on timing and flavors.  I decided to do an experiment....  I left the beer in the primary fermentor for about 14 months total.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I know this is very uncommon, but I wanted to see what would happen. If it would maybe sour on its own due to open fermentation.  I assumed at least maybe a layer of CO2 was protecting the beer from oxygen for a while as it was untouched for this whole time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest concern isn't off flavors at this point.  It is safety.  I don't want to poison myself or anyone else.  I would hate to go through packaging and force CO2 to have it basically contaminate my equipment.  I thought of botteling, but don't know if priming it will help at all...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any experts out there have some thoughts on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14841" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T05:19:26.837" Title="Long open fermentation questions" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19157" CreationDate="2017-03-24T16:11:26.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of anything that could grow in the beer that would harm you.  No worries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T16:11:26.190" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19154" CreationDate="2017-03-24T16:13:38.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping is one of the cases where I use a secondary.  By dry hopping in primary you get interactions between the hops and yeast that I don't care for.  I tend to dry hop in the serving keg and the dry hops stay in for 2-3 months. There is no problem doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T16:13:38.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-24T19:06:41.310" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had to repurpose the tube I normally use to run off wort from my kettle into the fermentor as a blowoff tube instead.  I'm planning on getting a new tube to use for running off the wort in the future, because it doesn't seem like a good idea to run chilled wort through even a thoroughly cleaned blowoff tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I label these tubes of similar diameter and length so I can keep using them for the same purpose from batch to batch?  Solutions that will survive sanitizing and cleaning are strongly preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6057" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T11:07:53.930" Title="Label tubing for particular uses?" Tags="|tubing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19165" CreationDate="2017-03-24T21:59:07.730" Score="2" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm transferring my first white IPA to secondary tomorrow. It smells great, but there is one problem.  A really low OG. I can only assume my protein rest wasn't sufficient to break down the proteins in the unmalted grain. A friend of mine joked about adding everclear to it. I laughed but thought about it and roughly 30 oz of ethanol would put me in the range of a typical white ipa. It's kinda cheating but I worked really hard on this recipe and I want to salvage something.  Is that something brewers can do in a pinch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12902" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2017-04-08T15:52:15.327" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T15:52:15.327" Title="Supplementing with ethanol? Is that a thing" Tags="|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-24T23:21:02.737" Score="4" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question. This particular brew is a white IPA and brew day was a week ago. I had a violent fermentation the first night after brewing to where a lot of krausen built up, expanded the bucket outwards and spewed a little wort through the airlock. I added ferm cap and resealed the fermenter. It has been fine ever since and krausen has subsided. Gravity dropped to almost FG after just 3 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the gravity levels after a few days and noticed a build up around the inside of the fermenting bucket rim near the top. The build up is greenish in color and kind of &quot;gunky&quot; looking. Ironically enough, I also got this same build up in my kettle during game the boil right after I added in the Hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone happen to know of this is normal and what it might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to add a pic, but it's not letting me...maybe size is too big. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14844" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-03-29T08:17:47.273" LastActivityDate="2017-05-06T15:10:15.080" Title="Build up around top inner rim of fermenting bucket?" Tags="|fermentation|hops|krausen|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19167" CreationDate="2017-03-25T00:29:23.827" Score="1" ViewCount="15272" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its my first time ever trying to brew some sort of beer. I decided to try making a 5 litre batch of pineapple beer. I added one pineapple, 1 kg of sugar, approx 5 litres of boiled water and 14 grams of dry bakers yeast. All inside a 5 litre plastic bottle with a make shift airlock made out of pens and plastic straws. I wrapped it in a blanket to keep it nice and toasty. I added the yeast at around 30-35 degrees celsius. What kind of results should i expect and how long should i let it ferment for? Ive read that 10 days should be okay but im not sure. What kind of strength will i be looking at alcohol % wise? Ive read pineapple beer can range from 1% to 5% &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone is interested i can post a pic of it later and keep yous updated on how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14838" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T21:17:08.657" Title="Making pineapple beer with bakers yeast" Tags="|beer|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19162" CreationDate="2017-03-25T02:31:03.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most probably, it's some hops residue.  The krausen must have caused it, and in any case it's not touching the wort so I would not worry about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-03-25T02:31:03.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19161" CreationDate="2017-03-25T15:48:33.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, a  protein rest is based on the type of malt you use and how it was malted.  It is almost never necessary for any type of malt or beer.  It certainly isn't necessary for the type of malt you use for an IPA.  So, whatever your issue is, it isn't related to a protein rest.  Unless you have really undermodified malt (which is almost impossible to find), protein breakdown will be accomplished at &quot;normal&quot; mash temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can certainly add ethanol of you want to...it's your beer!  But you might find it adds a harsh alcoholic heat.  You might be best off to do it by the glass to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-03-25T15:48:33.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19163" CreationDate="2017-03-27T05:39:54.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you have about 1kg of table sugar, and about 60g of fructose from the pineapple in a total of 5 liters of water. That should put your OG at around 1.080-1.085, depending on just how much and how ripe the pineapple was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's all white sugars, we can assume that everything has the potential to ferment out completely leaving you with about 11-12% ABV with full attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you used bread yeast, which has an unknown alcohol tolerance. I know some people use dry bread yeast for meads and achieve relatively high ABVs, while others claim bread yeast have problems surpassing 5-6%. My opinion on the subject is that it'll depend on what exactly the yeast is, and we just don't know. You also didn't use nutritional supplements, which will leave your yeast in less than optimal health. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the unknown nature of your yeast, your final ABV will also be unknown. Most yeast will do 5-6% without problems, but when we make beer/cider/mead up to and past ~10% we usually have to deliberately pick yeast with high alcohol tolerance to ensure we get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess would be that you reach the alcohol tolerance of your yeast, and end up with a somewhat sweet product somewhere around 6-10% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do something like this again, I'd suggest you use a white wine or sparkling wine yeast since it will handle the alcohol and be happier in a high sucrose+fructose environment than baking- or brewer's yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13548" LastEditorUserId="13548" LastEditDate="2017-03-27T09:00:17.943" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T09:00:17.943" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15240" CreationDate="2017-03-27T13:13:08.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tobias has a good answer, but I want to add more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;what would happen to the juice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing that grape skin contains wild yeast, it is likely to ferment on its own,  the temperature seems ideal for that (75°F or 23°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would the juice turn to vinegar? Wine? Spoiled juice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to happen is likely fermentation.  After the end of fermentation (about a week or two) the wine has to be protected from air to avoid spoilage. Adam, mentionned that it is covered, but how air thight is the cover?  Bottling and refrigeration would help preserve it better at that point. Acetobacter is a bacteria that converts alcohol using oxygen to acetic acid (vinegar), so this means alcohol and oxygen have to be present for this to occur (and the presence of the bateria of course). So air tight preservation is the key for protection.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If wine, what would be the alcoholic content and would there be a point at which fermentation would end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual way to measure alcohol in winemaking, is to use an hydrometer to mesure the original gravity, the final gravity and calculate it from there.  However, if you didn't measure the original gravity, you can use a vinometer to measure the alcohol content of a finished wine.  Most yeasts will ferment the wine dry (ie converting all sugar content) which could be around 11% depending on the grapes sugar content, but without measuring the sugar content, this is only an approximation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T13:13:08.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4353" CreationDate="2017-03-27T13:48:22.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suggestion:  Instead of repriming with sugar or carbonation drops, try using corn syrup instead.  (Make your own, don't buy commercial corn syrup.) Adding the syrup eliminates much of the nucleation and loss of carbonation.  Its even better if you chill the syrup before adding to your under carbonated brew.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that when you dissolve 4 oz corn sugar in 1/2 cup of water and boil for one minute it yields almost exactly 200 milliliters (ml) of syrup.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For initial priming a new 5 gallon batch at 65 °F. you would use the full amount (200 ml) to get 2.4 vol CO2. This equates to about 4 ml per 12 oz bottle. (This gives you an idea of the upper limit.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have already primed your beer, but it's under carbonated, you don't know how much carbonation is in it or how much you need to add, so you will need to experiment with the syrup just as you did with the carbonation drops.  I suggest you start with 1 milliliter in one bottle and see what happens in about a week.  Whatever you do, don't put 4 or more milliliters of the syrup in a bottle unless you want bottle bombs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS  If you don't have any small metric spoons or cups, you can safely experiment with 1/4 teaspoon syrup which is about 1.25 ml. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14853" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T16:04:45.527" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T16:04:45.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19160" CreationDate="2017-03-27T15:17:18.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use electrical tape, it comes in different colors and it would resist washing.  The color would be your code to designate its purpose and length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no other ideas for now, anyone else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T15:17:18.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19160" CreationDate="2017-03-28T04:10:52.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, get silicone tube that you can boil, and standardize all your fittings to that tube. I use the same two pieces of tube for wort recirculation, chilled wort drain and blow-off; no cross-infection even with Brett/Lacto so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T04:10:52.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19160" CreationDate="2017-03-28T11:07:53.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you not just use different lengths? Shorter (or slightly shorter) tube for blow off or run off as required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T11:07:53.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-28T11:51:14.203" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made an all-grain Russian Imperial Stout on a stovetop, and because of some volume miscalculations (or something), I boiled for 135 minutes to get down to my desired volume of 2.5 gallons. At the end, I discovered that my OG was about 1.115, rather than the expected 1.090, so I added water to get down to my intended OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after adding 1 package Wyeast ESB wet yeast, and waiting about 3 weeks, the FG is 1.036, which I worry will cause bottle bombs if I go for the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fermentation could be stuck or slow (I made another yeast starter and pitched it in a few days ago with no noticeable increase in fermentation), but I wonder whether the long boil produced appreciable non-fermentable sugars, such as melanoidins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether a boil this long could produce enough melanoidins (yes, you can taste them!) to increase the FG from an expected 1.010 to 1.036. If so, is there a way to calculate the expected FG based on boil time taking the production on non-fermentables into account?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the brew now has a distinctly smokey flavor. Not terribly burned or anything, and there was no indication that anything burned on the bottom on the boiling pot, but you can definitely taste some smoke in there. I expect it will be sort of pleasant, but I'm just adding this to 1) know why it happened, and 2) perhaps it will help diagnose my high FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hop flavor is good, added bittering close to 60 minutes before the end of boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14624" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T15:41:47.990" Title="How much do melanoidins increase gravity?" Tags="|boil|sugar|stuck-fermentation|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19173" CreationDate="2017-03-28T15:41:47.990" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is yeast, not unfermentables.  Unless you made a starter, 1 pack for a 1.090 beer is way underpitching, assuming you made 5 gal.  A single pack might work for 1 gal. at that gravity, but not 5.  Also, a 1.010 FG for a 1.090 beer would make it very thin and bodiless.  There is no accurate way to calculate FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T15:41:47.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19162" CreationDate="2017-03-28T19:09:11.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the color and location, it's most likely hop residue.  Pellets end up disintegrating into mush, hence the use of hop spiders / muslin bags.  What yeast are you using that ran through fermentation that fast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14860" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T19:09:11.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6094" CreationDate="2017-03-28T19:53:18.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for the recyclable marks on the buckets, usually on the bottom.  There should be three arrows in the shape of a triangle with a number in the center.  If the number is #1 or #2 then it is food grade.&#xA;Usually #2 which is HDPE or high density polyethylene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14861" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T19:53:18.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17330" CreationDate="2017-03-29T22:37:12.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;a local brewery made a new england pale ale and posted the recipe online.&#xA;OG: 1.057,&#xA;FG: 1.011&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and they added hops in three occasions:&#xA;-SG: 1.018,&#xA;-SG: 1.011,&#xA;-three days after it reached 1.011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think FV should right after the violent fermentation (usually when you switch from the hose to the airlock)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14865" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T22:37:12.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19157" CreationDate="2017-03-31T05:19:26.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we say beer is 'safe to drink', we mean you're not going to get cholera,  botulism or anything like that from it. We mean you won't die quickly from drinking something that beer is recognizably beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that all assumes that there was fermentation by yeast, making alcohol from grain. After 14 months of oxygen exposure, that alcohol might have been converted to something else by some other microorganism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was acetobacter, then you've made vinegar and it's safe to drink. If brettanomyces got in there, you might have made something yummy. If something else grew in there, you're taking your chances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smell it - and if you don't recognize the smell, dump it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T05:19:26.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-31T13:01:33.677" Score="1" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that Widget world is no longer operating.&#xA;I have had to get a Hamilton bard cylinder that uses an s30 thread.&#xA;This is not compatible with the widget world devises.&#xA;Can anyone tell me the thread that widget world used and I have a&#xA;widget world trigger device that screwed on to the widget wold cylinders and had a thin plastic pipe that connected to the inlet of my pressure gauge attached to my king keg barrel.&#xA;can anyone tell me how I can use this ( widget world trigger device) with a Hamilton bard (s30) cylinder.&#xA;I lot of people would also like this answer and have asked me to pass the answer on to them.&#xA;Cheers - Ian Paterson&#xA;31/03.17&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14868" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T15:49:10.690" Title="Widget World to S30 Conversion" Tags="|conversion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1822" CreationDate="2017-03-31T18:49:53.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on where you are getting your water from. Here in the Seattle area, we get our water from mountain reservoirs and we have very low mineral content which is good place to start and easy to add the minerals you want. If you live in a place like Arizona, where they mostly pump the water out of underground reservoirs and tastes like crap, you will either want a Reverse Osmosis filter or a go down to Safeway and use the filtering station. Make sure to check your local water report which are usually available from your water supplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reverse Osmosis Filter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00I0ZGOZM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/APEC-5-Stage-Reverse-Drinking-Water/dp/B00I0ZGOZM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T18:49:53.337" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2017-03-31T18:49:53.337" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-31T22:16:51.930" Score="2" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I've bottled my Coopers Amber Ale, about 4 weeks ago, with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;600g Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;200g Dextrose &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;200g Corn Syrup Powder &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the last few days, I've noticed a few bottles (PET) have fizzed out some of the brew! Maybe half to an inch? They smell good but I've felt all the other bottles and they are so full of carbonation it feels like glass bottles! So I've cracked each just to let some of the gas out! Is that a problem? Don't know why? Beer smells ok! Im not throwing them out yet! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any Ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Additional information:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;750ml bottles with 2 carbonation drops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I got 3 same readings on the hydrometer (took 9 days)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;23L batch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14490" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-20T14:00:32.133" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T14:00:32.133" Title="Carbonation in bottles" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19182" CreationDate="2017-04-01T05:26:45.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What size batch was this?  600g of DME might be reasonable for a 15 gallon (~57L) batch but if you also added in 400g of other sugars, it's not surprising that you had an over-carbonation issue. It's almost surprising it took 4 weeks to have issues. If the batch was smaller (especially if it was 5 gallons/19L) even just the DME would be to much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're you possibly using quantities from a recipe? If so, double check that you appropriately scaled it for your batch size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, it may be safe to use a priming calculator such as the one below to figure out how much would be appropriate for your batch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that although the calculator gives amounts of table sugar, corn sugar, and DME those quantities are meant to be equivalent substitutes for one another, not all used together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2017-04-01T05:26:45.120" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19182" CreationDate="2017-04-02T10:32:37.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original post reads as though you used almost 1kg of different sugars for priming the beer for carbonation. But from your comment I see that is not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the size in g of the carbonation drops I can't say if 2 is to much, but for the rest of the answer I'm going to assume it is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have taken 3 gravity readings and they where similar or the same there are some  things that could still be wrong. One thing that could lead to over carbonation is if the yeast stopped converting sugars to alcohol to soon.  This is usually caused by pitching too little yeast. This again can come from the yeast being to old or the yeast being stored to hot or to cold for a long period of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under pitching is also a common problem in bigger beers but the amount of sugars used here it is not the problem. Large beers also have higher alcohol content which can stop the yeast early if the strain used can't handle high alcohol content. But this is not likely here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional source of the problem could be an infection, this could be wild yeast or it could be bacterial. This could happen on bottling day if it is in the air (unlikely) or if the hose and or rakking cane has the contamination. Both bacteria and wild yeast eat sugars and produce carbon dioxide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally using carbonation drops is in general not a great way of carbonation, you have to touch the drops which can transfer infection, and you have less control over how much the beer gets carbonated. A better method is to use a second fermentation bucket or carboy, sanetize it boil x amount of sugars in a small amount of water. Then pure this into the second vesel. Then transfer the beer to this new vesel and let it sit for a short while before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as letting some of the gas in the bottle escape this is fine. Ideally you should not need to but I have felt the need to do this myself and done so. It does perhaps give a chance of some oxygen to enter, which is not good for long term storage, but not very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14807" LastEditorUserId="14807" LastEditDate="2017-04-02T21:08:16.653" LastActivityDate="2017-04-02T21:08:16.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="88" CreationDate="2017-04-02T18:05:05.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My viewpoint is:&#xA;1. Rack to a glass 2ndary after 1 week - assuming you have no active carbonation.&#xA;2. Dry hop in the 2ndary, although it is a pain if you are using dried hops vs pellets :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A trusted friend (Dean) who went from &quot;best homebrewer I knew&quot; to successful professional always cautioned me AGAINST racking as &quot;not worth the risk of contamination&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been doing 3-5 5g batches a year for over 20 years.  I've only ruined one due to contamination and that was NOT racked (it was my 2nd batch and I didn't know how to clean the primary/bottling bucket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I'll probably try skipping the 2ndary on my next simple batch, but I can't every see skipping it if I have a heavy beer with lots of sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14874" LastActivityDate="2017-04-02T18:05:05.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2188" CreationDate="2017-04-04T12:32:13.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can lay your hands on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theyeastbay.com/brewers-yeast-products/sigmunds-voss-kveik&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kveik strain&lt;/a&gt;, you can make a Norwegian farmhouse ale. Kveik yeast ferments in temperatures up to even 40°C with comparatively little off aromas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Saison strain will feel alright in a slightly lower temperature spectrum, up to 30°C, maybe slightly over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14050" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T12:32:13.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-04T13:44:21.683" Score="2" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a novice home brewer who likes West Coast IPAs and the occasional double IPA.  I also started growing hops in my backyard last year and I'd like to put together a beer using all 5 hops. I'd like to see a fully bodied IPA from smell to finish with a 6-8%ABV.  Is this a reasonable recipe?  I'm particularly interested in advice on the LME, grains and yeast choices, as well as hop order. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ingredients :  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6.6 lbs (2.9 kg) of light-colored American liquid malt extract(LME) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 lb  Crystal malt (20 °L) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 lb Crystal malt (40L)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CTZ whole hops (0.5 oz/14g at 14% alpha acids) (60 min.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add remaining 3.3 lb of LME at 20 min.                                                                                                                                                      &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 oz (14 g) Cascade whole hops 5% alpha acids (15 min.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 oz (14 g) Chinook whole hops 10%alpha acids (5 min.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz (28 g) Fuggle whole hops 5% alpha acids (0 min.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 oz (42 g) Centennial whole hops 10% alpha acids (dry)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wyeast 1272 (American Ale II) yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14876" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-04-04T13:52:48.867" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T15:13:58.023" Title="Is this a good recipe for a 5 hop brew?" Tags="|ingredients|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19187" CreationDate="2017-04-04T15:13:58.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks fine, but I'm not sure you're going to get the desired effect from the diverse hops. I expect that the Fuggle especially will be washed out by the other hop flavors. If you really want to showcase your homegrown hops, consider using just a few of them. The flavors will be more distinct if there's less conflict, C hops are a solid group to work with for IPAs. If you use 3 or 4 of those, you may have more satisfying results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it looks like it will be a perfectly fine IPA with the recipe you've listed. If your goal is more about making a beer that uses your homegrown hops than it is showing anything in particular about the hops then go for it. There's nothing in here that stands out to me as a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything else looks good to me. LME is great, but it spoils more quickly than DME. Be sure to get it at a shop that has high turnover. The yeast is a solid choice. You said you're a novice, have you used liquid yeast before? You will have to start it in advance, but that's pretty easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T15:13:58.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-04T19:34:51.793" Score="1" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;After my primary fermentation, ready to rack to carboi (about a week) my SG is about 1.015... is that anywhere near being good? Seems like that's what it started at. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DdMwk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DdMwk.png&quot; alt=&quot;this is a picture of said measurement&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a red ale from an extract kit. My first brew. The fermentation seemed a bit sketchy to begin with. Bubbled for a while then stopped after about 1/2 day. I tried to restart the yeast but figured meh... maybe it just had to big an air space and it didn't build up enough pressure to bubble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tasted the brew - tasted fine - like a flat bass ale. And it frothed up a bit when poured into the measurer. Ok that probably meant jack shit but still ... Any advice is well appreciated, including &quot;dump it! run screaming!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14877" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T21:12:43.160" Title="First brew - What is a good SG for end of first fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19189" CreationDate="2017-04-04T21:12:43.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being a red ale extract kit, it will have a reasonable amount of unfermentables in it.  Given that, I'd say you're in god shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T21:12:43.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19192" CreationDate="2017-04-05T16:51:00.317" Score="5" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing all-grain for a while now, but I can't figure out why the recipes I read have the following.  Take this example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body&#xA;Total Grain Weight: 10.25 lb (4.7Kg)&#xA;Single Infusion, Light Body&#xA;Step Time Name Description Step Temp &#xA;75 min Mash In Add 12.81 qt of water at 163.7°F 152.0°F &#xA;10 min Mash Out Add 8.20 qt of water at 196.6°F 168.0°F &#xA;Sparge with 2.64 gallons 168.0°F water&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do the Mash In and Mash Out have two different temperature readings if it's single infusion?  Did the brewer mash in at the first temp (in this case 163.7°F/73°C) to get to the second temp (152.0°F/67°C)?  This is what is seems to me, yet if that is the case I don't think mashing out at 196.6°F would get to a final temp of 168°F.  In any event, if someone could clarify this for me it would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T15:52:32.263" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T15:52:32.263" Title="Interpreting single-infusion mash instructions with two temperatures listed" Tags="|beer|all-grain|mash|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19191" CreationDate="2017-04-05T19:08:38.077" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first temperature is of the water you are adding while the second is the expected temperature of the mash after it has been added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by adding 12.81 qt of water at 163.7 F to the grain (presumably at room temp) the mixture should land around 152 F.  Mashing out is an optional (though common) step that is meant to bring the mash above the temperature range where the enzymes at work in the mash are no longer active.  Which is why this wouldn't be considered a second infusion; it's more like force-stopping the mash by increasing the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here by adding 8.20 qt of water at 196.6 F the mash overall should end up at roughly 168 F which is a pretty normal mash out temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, you have an infusion at 152 F and mash out to 168 F.  You just get there by adding water in two steps of 163.7 F and 196.6 F respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-04-05T19:28:04.357" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T19:28:04.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19131" CreationDate="2017-04-06T07:39:10.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not entirely certain if I have an answer to what it is that generates the funk taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belle Saison yeast is Saccharomyces cerevisiae according to a datasheet I found on it. I did not see any flavor compounds for this on Wikipedia. But for Brettanomyces 3 sensory compounds are listed with taste impact:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4-ethylphenol: Band-aids, barnyard, horse stable, antiseptic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4-ethylguaiacol: Bacon, spice, cloves, smoky&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;isovaleric acid: Sweaty saddle, cheese, rancidity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking now that perhaps belle either generate 4-ethylphenol or isovaleric acid or both perhaps some 4-ethylguaiacol to. Barnyard/horse is something I can identify in the aroma but not antiseptic or band-aids&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14807" LastEditorUserId="14807" LastEditDate="2017-04-06T07:49:35.557" LastActivityDate="2017-04-06T07:49:35.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19195" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20233" CreationDate="2017-04-06T12:20:26.783" Score="1" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much, the title. I've done a few searches and turn up the Malt Mechanics products, but no &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.minibrew.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MiniBrew&lt;/a&gt;. If you have Minibrew equipment and you live in Aus/NZ, where do you get your parts from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14217" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T21:42:47.333" Title="Is there anywhere in Aus/NZ that sells MiniBrew HDPE?" Tags="|fermentation|beer|equipment|conical-fermenter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-07T07:42:49.300" Score="0" ViewCount="2181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a lager which is now all bottled. I put half a teaspoon of brewing sugar in to the bottle once the lager was in the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I looked at the lager the day after I noticed that there is a bit of sugar at the bottom of the glass what did I do wrong.&#xA;I Am a newbie to home brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14840" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T13:05:10.787" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T17:12:46.930" Title="Sugar at the bottom still" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19197" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-07T10:08:01.737" Score="1" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand Tinseth's formula is derived from curve fitting (as I read it from his &lt;a href=&quot;http://realbeer.com/hops/research.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I can't see if he's using pellets or cones and I think that the utilization differs. I expect that eventually one would get the same utilization from hops and pellets so the difference in the formula should then be in the time constant in the time factor. That would lead to a formula like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;IBU = ... (1-exp(-kt))/4.15&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should one use different value for &lt;code&gt;k&lt;/code&gt; depending on if I use pellets or whole hops? Which one does the standard value of &lt;code&gt;k=0.04&lt;/code&gt; applie? Or is there a different formula for the use of pellets or whole hops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14579" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T18:08:48.350" Title="Correction of Tinseth's for pellets vs cones" Tags="|calculations|ibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19196" CreationDate="2017-04-07T13:24:18.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you add the sugar directly to your bottles, you need to shake them well after capping to mix the sugar and the yeast.  You can even shake them for the first few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To acheive bottle fermentation, make sure to check :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The temperature&lt;/strong&gt;: make sure it is hot enough for the yeast to be active. Check the yeast package for the ideal temperature and try to get close to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allow some time&lt;/strong&gt;: bottle conditionning can a a few days, you can shake your bottles the first few days. Do not refrigerate before one week.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast:&lt;/strong&gt;  if you filter your beer, you might not have enough yeast left.  Avoid filtering if you bottle-condition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sugar:&lt;/strong&gt; have enough sugar.  Half a tea spoon per bottle seems ok if you have standard 341ml bottles.  For a 1L bottle it would not be sufficient.  Some people would add the sugar first then the beer. For me I find that adding the sugar to the whole batch (after racking) is more practicle but all methods normally work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not overfill&lt;/strong&gt;: Leave at least an inch of air.  Yeast works better if some air is present, and it will allow the CO2 to take its place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a week, I would try to open one bottle.  Check if the beer is carbonated, and also if the residue is sugar or yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T13:24:18.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19196" CreationDate="2017-04-07T15:07:54.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could just be yeast.  Given enough time if it is sugar it will dissolve on its own.  I'd just be patient, give the bottles two weeks at room temperature.  Then chill one down and open it up to test for carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T15:07:54.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-07T17:50:17.937" Score="1" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok so it gone like this : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Me&lt;/strong&gt; : I red on some forums that I could save a lot of money by switching from PBW to Oxyclean Free. Do you want to go to Walmart tonight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Him&lt;/strong&gt; : You mean the cloth cleaner? Hum, there's no way it's food grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Me&lt;/strong&gt; : I don't think PBW is neither.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Him&lt;/strong&gt; : Well, I don't think you're right. Like dish soap, PBW must be somewhat similar in terms of food regulation. And I don't find the full chemistry compounds of Oxyclean. Also, it's a really strong stuff, it may detach some  micro particles of plastic off your bucket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm asking you guys.. is it safe or not? Should I play safe and buy that expensive pbw? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14457" LastEditorUserId="14457" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T18:09:39.013" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T12:35:13.597" Title="PBW, or Oxyclean Free, that is the question" Tags="|cleaning|oxiclean|pbw|cleaners|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19197" CreationDate="2017-04-07T18:08:48.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the Experimental Brewing podcast, we did a test to see how close the IBUs you actually get are to what software predicts (hint:off by as much as +/- 40%).  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.experimentalbrew.com/podcast/episode-32-ibu-lie&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.experimentalbrew.com/podcast/episode-32-ibu-lie&lt;/a&gt;  As part of it, we interviewed Glenn Tinseth.  We were shocked to have him tell us that he never tested pellets, and if you use pellets and get anywhere near what he predicted it's strictly chance.  He said that when he was doing his tests pellets were so bad that no one used them.  Also, he only tested with his brewing system so any other systems might produce vastly different results.  Glenn's advice, we we concur with, is not to worry about the numbers but to find what you like and stick with it.  And to answer you question more directly, no, there is no way to adjust for pellets instead of whole hops using his formula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T18:08:48.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19200" CreationDate="2017-04-07T18:10:51.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PBW is completely safe.  I used it for years before switching to Craftmeister cleaners, which are much more effective.  PBW works a little better than Oxi, and Craftmeister works significantly better than PBW.  But all 3 are safe and effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T18:10:51.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-07T19:07:47.683" Score="2" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been &quot;stacking&quot; batches and have attenuation issues.  I will brew 5 G today and pitch the yeast.  I repeat these steps tomorrow and add it to the top of the first batch, although I do not pitch more yeast.  I also do not aerate either batch.  I believe I need to aerate, but am unsure when to do it; 1st batch, 2nd batch, both batches.  Also, should I pitch on the 2nd batch as well as the 1st?&#xA;Any help would be great....Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14890" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T18:36:16.327" Title="Pitching/aerating stacked batches" Tags="|aeration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19203" CreationDate="2017-04-07T19:45:48.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aeration/oxygenation is key. Without it yeast cannot grow successfully, which is basically the whole idea of batch fermentation (read: brewing). So, as you suspect, you really do need to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best answer to this question depends on some missing information, specifically: what kind of yeast (liquid, dry, from a starter or previous batch) you're using; how much yeast you're pitching; and how you're aerating (oxygen injection, shaking, vigorous pouring). However, in general it should be fine to pitch and aerate just the first batch. You can aerate the second one too, depending on how much you oxygenate the first one, how long your lag phase is, what shape your yeast is in, and probably some other factors. If you're aerating by shaking, it probably couldn't hurt to do both. If you're directly injecting pure oxygen, I'd stick to just the first one, giving it a bit more than you would for a single batch. Don't wait until the second batch to aerate. If you're not seeing any/much fermentation activity by the time you add the second batch, it may be a good idea to aerate more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to pitch more on the second day, what you're essentially doing is introducing less healthy/ready-to-ferment yeast into a medium that already has yeast that's adapted and fermenting (hopefully) vigorously. Meaning, the newly pitched yeast is going to have trouble competing for nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T19:45:48.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19200" CreationDate="2017-04-08T15:49:27.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using PBW, One Step and Star-San for almost 20 years mostly for winemaking but I also make a lot of homebrew. PBW is great for getting rid of tough stains. When I clean my wine hoses, it really gets the stains out, but I don't think it's all that great on killing the bad stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One Step is supposed not that great at sanitizing stuff. Hard to clean stains get oxidized and turn brown but don't really get removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Star-San is great for sanitizing equipment with no rinse, but does not do a great job on hard to clean stains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do for deep cleaning is use PBW to get the big stains and then rinse with hot water and then Star-San to sanitize with no rinse. For clean equipment I just go straight to Star-San and no rinse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a complete rundown of cleaning agents, you should &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bayareamashers.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Comparison-of-cleaners-and-sanitizers.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;read this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2017-04-08T18:37:30.463" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T18:37:30.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19203" CreationDate="2017-04-08T18:36:16.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's any need to aerate the subsequent batches.  Think about the purpose of aeration...the yeast use the oxygen to synthesize sterols which keep cell walls flexible for budding.  But the more yeast you pitch, the less need there is for aeration since you have adequate amounts of yeast already.  In your case, by the time you add the second batch you've had a lot of cell growth so further aeration shouldn't be necessary.  You may have more of a wort issue than a yeast issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T18:36:16.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-09T00:48:58.420" Score="7" ViewCount="1367" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have been dabbling with the use of my sous vide immersion heater for maintaining a perfect mash temperature (it's pretty unbelievable how efficient and accurate these guys are). I have only been doing smaller batches (~3 gallons) up until now. As I have looked to go bigger I have tried to find polycarbonate food bath containers that are large enough, but without much luck. Then it hit me...my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/bottling-fermentation-bucket-spigot-6-gallon.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MoreBeer Buckets&lt;/a&gt; are food grade up to 180 degrees!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my plan is to mash in there and then move to two 6 gallon kettles for a split boil (working with an electric glass stove top that won't allow me to achieve a boil on a full 5+ gallons of wort). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is, do you think the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/rotating-spigot-bucket-sediment-block.html?site_id=9&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;spigots&lt;/a&gt; are also food grade? If not, I can always just use my bucket that does not have a hole/spigot, but it would be much easier to transfer the mashed liquid into the two kettles with the spigot vs. pouring straight from the bucket or siphoning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14895" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T05:53:23.067" Title="Mashing in food-grade plastic fermentation bucket" Tags="|mashing|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17489" CreationDate="2017-04-10T13:39:52.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a quarter tablespoon of alpha-glucosidase powder into about 4 cups of cooked rice, and the rice turned super fragrant. I fermented that with champagned yeat and got something that tasted like Chinese sweet rice wine with low ABV. I'm not sure why the fermentation or the mashing didn't get farther and allow a greater ABV. I'd expect the amylase to fully convert the starch, but either it didn't fully ferment due to lack of nutrients, or it did ferment fully and the amylase stopped working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would be curious to hear how your experiment went.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14901" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T13:39:52.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20207" CreationDate="2017-04-10T20:39:19.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes! The spigots will be able to support your desires to mash. That being said: to maintain efficiency - because single walled vessels lose heat via conduction more easily than double walled vessels. The other point is that your mash is bound to get stuck in the spigot. The other downside is that it involves more parts to clean that can house bacteria and mess up your batch. It will work - but - cleanliness is key/king/whatever that phrase actually is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-an-awesome-Mash-Tun-Less-than-60-Bucks-False/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You might consider something like this for a mashing vessel.&lt;/a&gt; You can view the steps for free and it is the same thing as the downloaded PDF, just... not in PDF form. Having the false bottom will prevent as much &quot;sticking&quot; while the double wall insulated vessel will help you maintain temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T20:39:19.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20215" CreationDate="2017-04-12T05:06:57.113" Score="1" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently ordered a pair of used ball lock Cornelius kegs from a website. One of the posts of one of the kegs is slightly bigger than the other. In order to get the beer out line onto the keg in the first place, I needed a mallet. I could not get the out line off even with a monkey wrench and a screwdriver. I eventually chopped the ball lock connector in half with a dremel tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem post is 15.81 mm. I was able to measure 4 other posts, on my various other kegs. They measure 15.53mm, 15.63mm, 15.47mm, 15.83mm. This is about 0.3mm of difference between the biggest and smallest parts. I have never put a connector on the 15.83mm post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my day job, I am an engineer. When two parts are supposed to snap together, it is important to machine those parts to a precise size, or you will find yourself jamming things together and prying them apart. 0.3 mm sounds very small, but it makes a huge difference in whether two parts can fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my old keg, I have always had trouble with one of the posts. I always have to fight to get connectors on and off of it. I suspect that I have an issue with an incorrectly sized post or an incorrectly sized connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How big is a ball lock post supposed to be? Are sticky, difficult connectors a common problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14166" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T14:15:22.000" Title="Exactly how big is a ball lock keg post supposed to be" Tags="|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20214" CreationDate="2017-04-12T07:44:17.440" Score="0" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before when I have used White Labs WLP-001 I have gotten too much alcohol taste on my beer.&#xA;One on my theories is that I have been fermenting it on to high temperature (living room - around 22C).&#xA;My basement is around 13C, would it OK to ferment the beer in this temp (guess it would take longer to complete fermenting)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m going to brew an imperial stout with WLP-001, so it would be an high alcoholic beer (around 10% alco).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any advice and tips!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6229" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T11:16:49.687" Title="High alcoholic taste on my beer, fermenting gone wrong?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|taste|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20213" CreationDate="2017-04-12T11:16:49.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What was your OG and your FG? How long did you wait before drinking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an ale yeast, which means that fermentation temperature should be more between 16° C and 24° C. It also says 'California Ale' yeast, which should give it a better resistance against relatively high temperatures, because fermenting in California will most of the time be at higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your basement is really a constant 13° C, then you better start using lager yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My process for simple beers up to 6.6% ABV: 2 weeks fermentation, two weeks conditioning after bottling (for CO2), two weeks lagering. Your basement should be fine for lagering. Conditioning after bottling should be done in a relatively warm chamber. I normally go for 18° C, as that seems to be the base temperature in my home on the floor and outside heated areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to brew an imperial stout: 2 weeks fermentation, rack it into another vessel with as small as possible headspace (I always add a couple of grams of sugar so that the fermentation pushes out as much oxygen as possible), let it rest four weeks, bottle, two weeks conditioning, then lager. After that you could taste one bottle. However, with big beers you can be be sure they get better after a couple of months and longer, so don't drink it all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After fermenting your imperial stout, brew again a lighter beer, to fill the time waiting for the imperial stout ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T11:16:49.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20212" CreationDate="2017-04-12T14:15:22.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the difference you are seeing is likely the difference between the gas and liquid lines. These are not designed to be interchangeable, but they are close enough that it's tough to see without close examination. It is possible that when they assembled the kegs to ship to you they mixed up the posts. Commonly the gas post will have little horizontal cuts around it's base. Check to see if your gas fittings have them, and your liquid do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a bit of keg lube can help with taking the posts on and off if they are difficult to use. It's a simple food safe lubricant that will help extend the life of the rubber seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, I am also surprised at the variance. Even allowing that they should fall into two different categories that still leaves you with a higher difference I would have expected. I suppose that could be because the seal is really formed by the o-rings and that allows for a larger tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T14:15:22.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-12T18:33:04.213" Score="2" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing ginger beer sodas by using juices: ginger and lemon juices, cane sugar and natural flavours. I pasteurise the blend by cooking it to 150°F (66°C) for a good minute, then cooling it off and adding sparkling water. Later, bottling and capping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had any problems, even months later it's all good. But my last batch is for some reason fermenting. I'm not adding any yeast to it, so it's probably fermenting naturally. The glass bottles (beer bottles) are capped, so there is no air coming in, and then I'm not feeding it (adding sugar or ginger like when doing a ginger bug), so I wonder if the fermentation will stop, if so at what point it should, or will it keep fermenting and I can end up with my bottles exploding? I'm about 8.5% Brix in cane sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14892" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-09-21T16:42:30.520" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T16:42:30.520" Title="Naturally fermented ginger beer" Tags="|fermentation|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20216" CreationDate="2017-04-12T21:25:36.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you rely on wild yeasts, did you expose the &quot;beer&quot; to air long enough?&#xA;You could wait until you see bubbles on the surface as a sign of yeast activity, or you could take daily gravity readings. Once gravity starts going down, something is working on the sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation will stop when either the yeast has consumed all fermentable sugars, or when the yeast dies from the alcohol it has produced. The former is much more likely; the later is only a concern for strong wines or beers. Many wine yeasts can tolerate 12 to 15 %ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get bottle bombs if you have too much fermentables in the bottle. Bottling 8.5% Brix (which is roughly a 1.033 specific gravity) sounds like a recipe for bottle bombs to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do fear you may have bottle bombs, you can try to fix this in 2 ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either open all bottles and dump the content in a bucket. Let it ferment completely, then put a reasonable amount of sugar in and bottle again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to vent each bottle and let excess carbonation escape. This is fairly easy with swingtop bottles, but may be hard with caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T15:26:58.430" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T15:26:58.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20232" CreationDate="2017-04-13T04:05:48.060" Score="6" ViewCount="813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a tropical country and don't have an extra freezer, but I want to comeback to homebrewing. I'll dare to brew at high temperatures and would like to find ways to get a decent tasting beer. Here are some tips that I collected, can you give some more tips and recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Recipes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to brew English bitters or Belgian ales. If you like (I don't) saison is best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Yeast Strains&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some strains support better high temps. Here is a list I collected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US-05&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White Labs WLP065 (American Whiskey Yeast) — 75-82 °F (24–28 °C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White Labs WLP665 (Flemish Ale Blend) — 68-80°F (20 –27 °C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wyeast 1388 (Belgian Strong Ale) — 64-80° F (18-27° C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wyast 3725 (PC Biere de Garde) — 70-84 °F (21-29 °C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wyeast 3763 (Roeselare Ale Blend) — 65-85 °F (18-30 °C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wyeast 3822 (PC Belgian Dark Ale) — 65-80 °F (18-27 °C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/28ncze/recipes_that_tolerate_warm_fermentation/cicrgml/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WLP644&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wet T-Shit Cooling&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cool it with a wet t-shirt over your fermenter, put it over an bowl with some ice, water and salt, and use a fan to accelerate the evaporation. It will get some degrees down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During fermentation, the temp of the wort will be 5-8 degrees higher than the ambient temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Process&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chill your wort till room temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave a couple of weeks maturing after the 2-3 days of initial fermentation. Also more time in the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the main 2 pages where I gathered this info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/high-temp-yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beer and Wine Journal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/mead/item/1084-make-me-sweat-cool-tips-for-hot-weather-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brew Magazine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14909" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T10:28:55.950" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T17:30:47.167" Title="Tips for brewing at high temperatures" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|fermentation-temperature|cooling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20222" CreationDate="2017-04-13T07:55:01.587" Score="6" ViewCount="828" Body="&lt;p&gt;Me and my brewing buddy have been brewing beers for some years now, we are pretty satisfied with our end products. Hardly any of that yeasty taste that can be quite prominent with home brews. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We normally use dry hopping to try to achieve that hoppy nose known from many professional IPAs, this does however fall flat most of the time. We are looking for that aroma you can get with some beers that is reminiscent of the ones you get when opening a bag of hops, hoppy and fresh. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions for how to achieve that in a home brewing context? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2320" LastEditorUserId="2320" LastEditDate="2017-10-11T14:38:18.990" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T14:32:19.377" Title="How to achieve that hoppy aroma and top notes" Tags="|dry-hop|ipa|aroma|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20218" CreationDate="2017-04-13T09:08:10.237" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I advise looking at HotHead from Omega Labs: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.omegayeast.com/portfolio/14158-2/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.omegayeast.com/portfolio/14158-2/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flocculation: Medium-High &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attenuation: 75-85% &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature Range: 62-98° F (16-37° C) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alcohol Tolerance: 11% ABV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T09:08:10.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20220" CreationDate="2017-04-13T21:19:53.807" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the primary factor would be how much you're dry-hopping with. More hops means more of the volatile aromatic compounds that produce those aromas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the recipes I've seen call for somewhere from 1 to 4 ounces of hops in the fermenter but I've heard of people using as many as 10+ ounces for dry-hopping. I'm not sure how that matches up with what commercial breweries use but it seems like the obvious place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, ensuring you have fresh, high-quality hops is also important. Try to keep up on when your LHBS gets new hops in and try using what's fresh, that may make a big difference as well. Similarly, the quality could vary between producers. If you can get hops from different brands/farms that may also make a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other considerations could be yeast strain and water chemistry. Certain yeast strains and higher sulfate content can help accentuate hop character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend taking a look at each of these variables and experiment to find what works best for what you want out of your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-10-19T11:26:38.523" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T11:26:38.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20220" CreationDate="2017-04-14T16:17:56.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/20222/12577&quot;&gt;thesquaregroot got it mostly rigtht&lt;/a&gt; - fresh hops and sufficient quantity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one more really important factor. As far as my experiments go, 4 days before adding hops and bottling are optimal. Any more or less time means less aroma - it either didn't dissolve in your beer yet, or already started to evaporate. And never, ever dry-hop when your ale is still bubbling!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-10-19T14:32:19.377" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T14:32:19.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16087" CreationDate="2017-04-15T14:41:40.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.5L is approximately 6 cups.  If you're at 10.058 OG this might work.  But above that and you could end up with bottle bombs, or under-carbed below that.  And this doesn't account for style.  Save more than you need, use a calculator, and adjust after OG and FG are known.  I use gyle for purely aesthetic reasons, this is a craft hobby and I try to be a much of a scratch brewer as possible.  If consistency is what you're after then sugar pills is the only way to go for bottling, as your fermentor volume may vary especially if dry hopping with whole leaf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14919" LastActivityDate="2017-04-15T14:41:40.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15851" CreationDate="2017-04-15T21:59:36.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can fit the appropriate sized food grade stainless steel washer over the collar at the position indicated in the above picture and you should have no problems washing most sized bottles, you need to make sure the inside diameter of the washer is big enough to slip over the first part of the rinser but not so big it slips all the way down, I hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14920" LastActivityDate="2017-04-15T21:59:36.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20220" CreationDate="2017-04-16T13:58:39.467" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other answers which I agree with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Late boil additions are very important too at last 1-5 minutes or whirlpool. These add a &quot;deep&quot; aroma for lack of a better term.  They seem to bond to the wort at this temp and hang on through fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping in early fermentation while does add aroma and flavor tends to have much of it blown off in cO2 escape. But is still an important step in hop bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Late dry hopping with fresh hops is where you get most of your aroma 3-7 days before cold crash and well past most cO2 blow off from fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying all three of these in your hoppy beers will give you that complex layering of hop aroma found in most commercial examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T13:58:39.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20220" CreationDate="2017-04-16T15:46:30.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything mentioned here, large dry hops, timing, flame out additions, whirlpool additions are all good ways to get the aromas in the beer.  I think another important step is keeping them in the beer which would be eliminating oxygen.  Some aromatic compounds will oxidize if in contact with O2. It seems to help to do CO2 transfers, purged keg, minimize splashing, as best you can make your hops not have any oxygen when dry hopping. Purge the headspace in your fermentor when dropping hops in.  If you're bottle conditioning its a lot harder to keep oxygen out than if you're kegging.  Good professional bottling lines eliminate as much oxygen as they can&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14448" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T15:46:30.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-16T23:10:31.667" Score="3" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a Duvel Belgian golden strong.  Chilled my wort to 64°F and pitched my yeast.  My plan was to raise the temperature 3 degrees a day to 82°F.  Today (day 2) ambient temperature rose into the 80s, and my fermentation rose to 76°F. I've moved to a cooler location, and temperature is stabilizing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I ruin my brew by raising the temperature too quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14922" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-03T16:58:24.403" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T16:58:24.403" Title="What happens if I ramp temperature too fast?" Tags="|temperature|belgian|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-17T01:01:18.217" Score="5" ViewCount="711" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://winemakersacademy.com/potassium-sorbate-wine-making/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; claims the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The second limitation of potassium sorbate is the length of time it is effective. Once added to wine it stays in the desireable form of sorbic acid only for a short time. Over time it breaks down into ethyl sorbate which can add notes of pineapple or celery to your wine. The change into ethyl sorbate is not preventable. By using potassium sorbate winemakers are putting a definite shelf life on their wines before they pick up these off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't able to find any more articles that verified that potassium sorbate causes off flavors over time, and, more importantly, how long it takes for potassium sorbate to degrade into ethyl sorbate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T12:22:24.170" Title="Does Potassium Sorbate cause off flavors over time - and how long does this process take?" Tags="|wine|potassium-sorbate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20228" CreationDate="2017-04-17T07:17:00.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you did not. Belgian yeast usually don't mind fast temperature increase. Just be sure not to exceed max temperature suggested by yeast supplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just by the way, the one time I had temperature raising too fast was with Belgian yeast, too. Similar with the people I talked with. Seems that these strains simply like to surprise us with heat production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T07:17:00.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20228" CreationDate="2017-04-17T15:50:17.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not that raising too fast was the issue, but raising too soon could be.  You' be better off waiting 72-96 hours before raising the temp.  Simply put, your situation is not critical but it could be better.  Fortunately the Duvel yeast throws relatively few esters so you may be OK.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T15:50:17.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20218" CreationDate="2017-04-17T16:58:42.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't live in a tropical climate, but summers here get quite hot (chicago IL)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;during the summer I use a Large rubbermade Tote, and fill it with water and put my fermentation buckets into it. &#xA;it keeps my temperature stable around 70F, and if I need to get it to a lower temp, I add Ice, or frozen water bottles to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T16:58:42.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19195" CreationDate="2017-04-19T21:42:47.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doesn't look like there is. Ordered online from US! Emailed the guys and they were very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14217" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T21:42:47.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20229" CreationDate="2017-04-20T19:39:27.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used Potassium Sorbate in a few wine recipes and haven't noticed any issues with off taste.  Commercial wineries use it too and I doubt they'd be doing it if it would change the flavor profiles of cellerable wines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T19:39:27.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19058" CreationDate="2017-04-21T15:54:04.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple options for this that I have used in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal favourite is to use a beer yeast like S-04, and carry out a forced fermentation to find out your real FG. Then when the Must gets to 2 points above the forced fermentation FG then rack and bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or Ferment out to FG with a low attenuating yeast, again like s-04, then prime your bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T15:54:04.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20229" CreationDate="2017-04-21T15:55:42.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never noticed it causing off flavours in any of my country wines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some have been in the cellar for 2-3 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T15:55:42.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20207" CreationDate="2017-04-23T13:12:45.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The valves / spigots on a food grade container will also be food grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However not all food grade containers are intended for heat and can release chemicals when heated. BPA for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to rethink your whole process given your boil capacity.  A lot of pressure on homebrewing is to &quot;go all grain&quot;. But if you can't utilize it's advantages for specific sugars then there's little point. Basically if you're struggling to mash and hold a 154° temp, you're only gaining an &quot;All Grain&quot; label and worked much harder than just using extract. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would wait until you can boil 5+ gallons. Then use an ice chest or something insulated for a mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-04-25T11:18:57.627" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T11:18:57.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19126" CreationDate="2017-04-24T02:57:46.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only &quot;flavor&quot; I recall from helium was metalic I assume from the tank. Everyone has inhaled a balloon as a kid right? As for CO2 never detected anything from it and I've force carbed from steel and aluminium tanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really doubt carb drops would be the source of your off flavor whatever it is, unless they've gotten contaminated somehow. &lt;em&gt;Carb drops are just simple sugar in an easy package.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eat a carb drop like a candy to rule them out.&lt;/strong&gt; Then check for other changes in your process / equipment for the source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T02:57:46.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-24T04:46:41.500" Score="1" ViewCount="664" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I'm planning to sell my tea(brewed tea + sugar + lemon/fruit extract) product in bottles(Plastic or Glass) but since it's brewed tea it only last for 12hrs before funky smell comes out. Is there a way to preserve it so I can distribute it in bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14953" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T14:18:39.963" Title="How to Bottle Brewed Tea" Tags="|bottling|campden|tea|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20241" CreationDate="2017-04-24T14:18:39.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given your recipe has fruit. I would make sure everything reaches a boil for 3 minutes, or at least a pasteurizing temp around 160°F, then bottle hot into mason jars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campden may be an option if boiling is not, but this doesn't kill yeast / bacteria. It only deprives the solution of oxygen inhibiting growth phases for microbes that require oxygen to do so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T14:18:39.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20259" CreationDate="2017-04-24T20:18:58.607" Score="3" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to brewing, and so far have only done ales. Before moving on to my first cider I wanted to ask the community if there was anything I need to be careful about, or even just any general tips for brewing cider as opposed to an ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14947" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T22:58:39.640" Title="Differences between brewing ales and ciders" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20243" CreationDate="2017-04-25T00:10:51.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cider has its share of differences from Ales.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Very little yeast nutrients in juices, use a supplement and oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Backsweetening is common. For those ciders that plunge to 0.999 SG. Unlike wort with some unfermentables the sugars in Apple juice are all fermentable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Generally no need to boil, just sanitize well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If using store bought juice beware of preservatives. Most will make fermentation impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yeast, can be tricky. Especially if you don't want to backsweeten. You have to use a strain that will give up before all sugar is consumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't add sugar or then it's called Apple Wine. ;-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: To add to Ryan's answer something to try. What I've adopted for my ciders is to make malted ciders (graff) using 20-50% of the fermentables / volume from second running from brews. What this brings to the cider is an end product that doesn't need backsweetened or a fermentation halt. Also they carbonate really well and will often even give a head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-05-01T22:58:39.640" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T22:58:39.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20250" CreationDate="2017-04-25T16:35:25.707" Score="3" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2085/how-much-water-does-a-wort-chiller-use/4918&quot; title=&quot;this question&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; about the amount of water used in immersion chilling (and various other wort chilling), I realized just how much water was being used in a standard brew. This seems quite wasteful to me at the cost of speeding up cooldown time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I (practically) conserve the water used in the immersion chilling process?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14958" LastEditorUserId="14958" LastEditDate="2017-04-25T21:09:27.963" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T16:05:56.253" Title="Conserve water used in immersion chilling?" Tags="|equipment|water|chilling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19196" CreationDate="2017-04-25T17:12:46.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could it be the yeast byproduct? Best way I've been able to tell what is on the bottom is by opening one up after a week or two. Make sure it's carbonated. Taste test (drink and enjoy). Lastly, make sure that the last drink is what you think it is - sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is all sugar and not the yeast byproduct, try shaking them all up and turning them upside down, in a case (for support), for a day or two then do it again leaving it upright. There shouldn't be a lot of oxygen in the bottle. So there won't be any concern over oxygenating. The technique I described is essentially increasing the surface area for contact between yeast and sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of reasons why the yeast might not have taken hold in your brew... Pitching too hot. Didn't give the yeast enough time at optimal temp for pre-pitching multiplying. The yeast may not have received their initial gulp of air or provided enough trace nutrients before going down to ferment. Etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, with lager yeasts you will want to pitch cooler. Pitch a lager yeast when below 70 degrees F. Cool very slowly (days), let the yeast open up. Too fast can cause the yeast to stay dormant (don't just stick in a refrigerator), but also know that lager yeasts are slower fermenters and optimally grow when in the range of 40-60 degrees F depending on the strain. It's good brewing form to know your yeast before dumping it in the primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some good reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popsci.com/science/article/2013-01/beersci-what-difference-between-lager-and-ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.popsci.com/science/article/2013-01/beersci-what-difference-between-lager-and-ale&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/101/yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/101/yeast/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and Cheers! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11897" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T17:12:46.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20247" CreationDate="2017-04-25T17:56:33.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slowing down the stream might help conserve some (the water stays in the pipe longer and heats up more); but often people find a use for the water instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One suggestion is to send your hose into a washing machine to pre-fill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use it to top up the garden pond. Yes it is very warm at the beginning but dilutes easily (no boiled fish!) as the pond is 2ft deep; and in a very short time the water output is at a more fish-friendly temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T17:56:33.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20247" CreationDate="2017-04-25T18:23:50.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I start by saving the hottest water in my sink, to be used for cleaning the immersion chiller and other items post-brew. Once I have enough there, I save the water in buckets to be used for watering plants inside and out. Once the wort temperature drops to 120-130 F I switch over to a closed system. I have a small picnic cooler with a submersible pump in it, and I fill the cooler with ice water. The return water from the immersion chiller goes back into the cooler. I add more ice as needed, and if it gets too full I run some of the water off to a bucket. You could use a closed system from the start if you have a large enough reservoir of cold water and ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14959" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T18:23:50.060" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7183" CreationDate="2017-04-26T02:33:33.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue with a recent beer also, I had put it down to Dimethyl Sulfides that I inadvertently generated trying to get a rolling boil going by leaving a lid cover on. This article provides some good info on this topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/04/10/dimethyl-sulfides-dms-in-home-brewed-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/04/10/dimethyl-sulfides-dms-in-home-brewed-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14962" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T02:33:33.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-26T13:40:03.147" Score="3" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 7 days in bottle I find out a white film at the top of the beer. This film isn't in every bottle, just in 1/3 of batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I openned one and it's tasted good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to know if it's an infection or a normal issue of bottle's fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bze0KzJYRKm5aUd0ZFJwYUFFRFNuWHpFd0lWSk5kOWxLTDBv&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bze0KzJYRKm5aUd0ZFJwYUFFRFNuWHpFd0lWSk5kOWxLTDBv&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14964" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T02:19:04.223" Title="White film at top of bottle" Tags="|contamination|bottle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20252" CreationDate="2017-04-27T02:19:04.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like pellicle from some organism.   Probably a wild yeast or a souring bacteria. It shouldn't be harmful, but can sure ruin a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You got a lot of headspace there and oxygen for things to grow. I would seperate the infected ones and secure for bottle bombs if you plan on keeping them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T02:19:04.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20255" CreationDate="2017-04-27T15:06:34.830" Score="1" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the limitations of my apartment, I decided to brew at a friend's house. Once my double IPA had finished its fermentation phases, I proceeded to bottling it. Shortly afterwards, I packed them into my car and (carefully) drove home (~15 mins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the jostling of the bottles during the drive, and the shifting that happened while carrying them up and down stairs, is it likely that this has significantly affected my brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generically, &lt;strong&gt;can transportation/shifting of bottled brew affect the outcome?&lt;/strong&gt; If so, which qualities might be affected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14958" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T15:47:49.617" Title="Can transporting bottles affect the outcome of the brew?" Tags="|bottling|beginner|transport|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20254" CreationDate="2017-04-27T15:47:49.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If anything it likely helped get them carbonated faster.  Assuming you let the sediment that gets stirred up by moving settle before drinking, there is no harm in moving bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T15:47:49.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20257" CreationDate="2017-04-28T13:28:52.993" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not seen anything on this subject, but recently I had a beer tasting and there were several people that wanted a batch for parties or weddings.  How do you handle the logistics with such requests?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I talked about a keg, but I do not know how to handle the gas with such a request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I talked about bottles and I have a lot of them for beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best solution to provide a party of people some home brew when they are asking for it and said they would pay what ever they needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12417" LastActivityDate="2017-04-29T15:15:18.903" Title="Someone wants me to brew them a batch, what logistics can be used?" Tags="|bottling|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20256" CreationDate="2017-04-28T14:24:53.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Corny keg and 3.5ft 3/16 line with picknic tap and small cO2 tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US you're allowed to produce 200 gallons a year for friends and family use only in a house with two drinking age adults, 100 gallons each. Friends generally can only enjoy it in your home. Transportation and out of home use laws are kinda gray, but usually ok for personal and family use. Competions being an exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are allowed to donate beer to non-profit organizations and they can sell it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You as a homebrewer cannot sell homemade beer, ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nonprofits can purchase the ingedients for you but that's the limit to an exhange . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-04-29T15:15:18.903" LastActivityDate="2017-04-29T15:15:18.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20243" CreationDate="2017-04-28T18:48:21.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having done a fair amount of both, I've outlined some differences below. First, a note on terminology: since there is no steeping of ingredients in cider making, you don't actually &quot;brew&quot; cider. I don't know if there is a cider specific term; I simply say, &quot;I made a batch of cider&quot; (versus &lt;em&gt;I brewed a batch of beer&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;General differences:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Making cider is easier.&lt;/strong&gt; Even if you source and press your own apples, I'd argue the absence of a mash, extended boil, and the need to fiddle with chillers makes cider making a simpler exercise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast is optional.&lt;/strong&gt; I've successfully made a few batches of cider and light cider (ciderkin) both accidentally and intentionally letting wild yeast do the work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carbonation is optional.&lt;/strong&gt; Beer tastes wrong without bubbles, but flat cider is fine. I always add sugar to bottle carbonate, but it's not necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hops and other additives are optional.&lt;/strong&gt; Unless you want to sweeten your cider or do other things like oaking or adding fruit, it's just apples.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sanitation isn't as important.&lt;/strong&gt; People can argue with me on this one, but experience has proven to me that cider is very forgiving. I still santitize, but I've used mills and presses that have merely been sprayed down, and have had zero issues with off flavors or fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your final gravity is pretty constant.&lt;/strong&gt; Ciders finish very clean. I've made several ciders, and they always finish at or slightly below 1.000. It is therefore very easy to tell when cider is finished fermenting. With beer, the final FG depends on the recipe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Things to Consider When Making Cider&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Juice is Everything.&lt;/strong&gt; You can easily go to the store and get some unpasteurized apple juice, but that's only excusable, IMO, if you are looking to make cider out of season. The quality of your juice will be much better if you get apples and press them yourself. The real art of making cider comes from picking the right varietals and blending them to create a complex juice that has the right balance of tannins and sweetness. Making a cider with just one varietal is probably going to yield a pretty dull final product. I've used no fewer than four apple varieties in my ciders; you want a nice balance of flavors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Culinary apples do not make the best cider.&lt;/strong&gt; Store bought varieties like Red Delicious and Granny Smith are not going to be the best options, but they still make good cider. To be fair, Granny Smith is a good substitute for traditional cider apples, since it's the most widely available tart varietal most people can find. If you can, get cider apples (unlikely if you're in the U.S.). A good fallback, and one that I've employed with success, is to use a blend of culinary apples in your base juice, then add some crabapple juice to taste. You're going for a good blend of sweet and tart.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your cider will finish dry.&lt;/strong&gt; Unless you backsweeten (add sugar after fermentation) or stop fermentation, your cider will ferment out completely, leaving you a very dry finished product. Personally, I prefer this &quot;old world&quot; style of cider, but many people like it sweeter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cider should ferment cool.&lt;/strong&gt; I've read that 58-60 degrees is ideal, and I'm sure some cider people would argue for a little cooler than that. &lt;em&gt;Low and slow&lt;/em&gt; is one of the keys to success.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cider takes time.&lt;/strong&gt; In my experience, cider takes about 3x longer than your typical beer to finish primary fermentation. I've traditionally made cider in October, then let it sit in our cellar over winter and bottled in spring. You don't have to wait this long, but I've found that cider takes time to come into its own. The ciders I've made really start hitting their stride after about 6 months.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cider won't ever be that bubbly.&lt;/strong&gt; Two things are working against bubbles in cider: (1) very little residual sugar in the fermented must and (2) a complete absence of malt proteins and hop acids, which contribute to head retention in beer. Be content with some effervescence, but don't expect a foamy head.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and have fun with your first cider!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14298" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T18:48:21.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20278" CreationDate="2017-04-28T20:58:59.160" Score="2" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard a lot of buzz about the New England IPA lately. After reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/news/new-england-ipa-haze-craze/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, I've gathered that it features fruitiness, cloudiness, and somewhat creamy medium bitterness. The specific aromatics and tastes seem to be a bit at-large. Haziness also seems to be a consistent characteristic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After having done a few West Coast IPAs (largely consisting of Cascade, Simcoe, and Centennial pellets), I haven't been able to nail down exactly which hops, yeasts, or other ingredients seem to be &quot;successful&quot; for this style. A few other pieces such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/tips-brewing-new-england-ipa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these tips&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2015/06/hop-juice-north-east-ipa-recipe.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this recipe&lt;/a&gt; seem to be good starting places, but I'm still not entirely sold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Nate Reynolds of GotBeer.com mentions &lt;a href=&quot;https://gotbeer.com/hop-chatter/the-rise-of-the-new-england-ipa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, the BJCP (Beer Judge Certification Program) has not yet recognized this as a full-fledged &quot;style&quot;, so there may be some degree of educated opinion rather than fact. I hope to gain some experienced insight on the New England IPA, nevertheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What, &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt;, sets the New England IPA apart from a &quot;traditional&quot; IPA or even a West Coast IPA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, has anyone had repeated success with this style, and would be able to share your tips/recipes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14958" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T20:21:33.337" Title="New England IPA - What sets it apart from a &quot;traditional&quot; IPA?" Tags="|recipe|ipa|beer-styles|beginner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-28T23:12:12.307" Score="3" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed various bottle conditioned ales all with the same fault. They taste great at bottling and get better for about 3 weeks to a month, during this period they actually taste fantastic; then they deteriorate quickly with a growing earthy taste, by 2 months they are undrinkable! Tried various sterilising agents and methods, dark bottles, refrigeration, glucose drop primers, decanting off of yeast sediment and resettling before bottling, all with the same result. I've actually stopped brewing because of this but want to restart and get past this issue. Any advice more than welcome :0) p.s. generally they take 7 to 10 days fermentation then 7 settling before bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14970" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T16:57:06.603" Title="Great taste up to a month then rapidly deteriorates" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20268" CreationDate="2017-04-29T01:16:53.467" Score="3" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about doing a Peach IPA, recipe isn't set in stone yet. I definitely want to taste the peaches, but I don't want it to taste like someone spilled beer in an a peach juice bottle. I'm doing a one gallon batch. I'm trying to decide whether to add the peaches in the initial boil or in a secondary. Are there relative merits to each? Has anyone tried this before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14947" LastActivityDate="2017-04-29T15:58:55.140" Title="Adding peaches during the boil or during secondary?" Tags="|fruit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20262" CreationDate="2017-04-29T01:32:29.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most fruits taste the way they do because of the aroma. If you boil the peaches they will taste much less of peach because the aromatics are partially boiled off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try it yourself - boil some peaches for 10 minutes, let them cool, then taste alongside unboiled peaches.  You can then decide if you want them boiled or put in primary once fermentation has slowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2017-04-29T01:32:29.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20261" CreationDate="2017-04-29T01:40:25.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's contamination by spoilage organisms, then you would hope that refrigeration would slow down the process. Did you try a a taste comparison, such as a blind triangle test?  Put a few bottles in the fridge and leave a few out up until the day of the test, when you'll also put all the beers in the fridge (so all tested beers are served at the same temperature.) Have a friend, spouse or well-trained puppy prepare them in groups of 3 - 2 of one kind and 1 of the other - only your friend will know which is which by numbering each bottle and correlating that number to where it was stored. With each flight of 3, taste each and see if you can tell the one that is different and if it is more or less pleasant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all bottles are tasted you'll be able to see if storing in the fridge makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be very surprised if it doesn't - oxidation and contamination are the primary causes of beer spoilage and they proceed significantly slower at fridge temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2017-04-29T01:40:25.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-29T05:54:08.383" Score="1" ViewCount="1909" Body="&lt;p&gt;first of all thanks for reading my question, so I did a jokey box a while ago, it required ice, and the kegs to be refrigeraated beforehand, it would serve rather well, sort of studied the thermodynamics of beer, now I want to build a different approach.&#xA;I want something automatic and electric, in which I can swap kegs at ambient temperature. Like in this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cA6qM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cA6qM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fast cooling process for beer dispensing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read about Glycol Chillers but it's like it's an extreme overkill because it seems that this kind of equipment is designed to be used when you have your beer very far away, and it looks like you need to have your kegs refrigerated =/ &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys know of any process in which I can plug a keg and it will be like some sort of aggressive electric heat exchanger with a pump which draws the beer from the keg and gets it COLD in a tower for dispensing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input will be highly appreciated, cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14971" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T00:25:52.673" Title="Fast cooling processs for beer dispensing" Tags="|beer|keg|cooling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20273" CreationDate="2017-04-29T13:03:34.050" Score="3" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came here not only to solve my off-flavour issue, but also to learn more about early stage of fermentation. I am making sodas (mostly Ginger Beer) which I am fermenting for carbonation. Everything went well all winter and I didn't have an issue, but suddenly, two batches in a row, I am smelling and tasting solvent like/nail polish off-flavour. According to the descriptors it seems like it could be ethyl-acetate. The recipe I am using stayed the same, I suppose this could have something to do with the dynamics of the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My variables are following: I have a 13 Brix solution made with inverted cane sugar (its taste is part of the drink's signature) and I am pitching it with 2.5g of EC-1118 per 10 litres. What has changed is temperature. In the winter I have put the fermenter in the warmest place in the house (+/- 21 °C), now that the heating is turned off, the temperature has actually dropped to around 17 °C. The fermentation is noticeably slower. The usual 24 hours in the primary produced less froth and the finished soda is less carbonated after similar time in the bottle (i usually pasteurise after 16-20 hours of in-bottle carbonation, staying rather on the safe side)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What seems a little counterintuitive is that most discussions and resources online point to high pitching temperatures as the main culprit. Others say that actually low temperatures actually help the production of esters. One resource hinted me at the concurrence of high metabolism and low growth rate. However my current sugar content should be a piece of pie for the EC-1118, so I wouldn't think this is high SG problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just pitch more in lower temps? Or should I avoid lower temps altogether?  I have rejected the idea of too much aeration, I doubt the yeast would respire with this much sugar. Am I missing something? Thanks for discussing, I am keen on learning more about the mechanics of the process:-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14973" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T20:58:23.170" Title="Soda: Fermentation dynamics and off-flavours" Tags="|carbonation|off-flavor|pitch|soda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20265" CreationDate="2017-04-29T15:29:40.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience the kegs need to be as cold as possible or pouring anything but foam gets hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jockey boxes are the norm with chilled kegs but as the kegs warm up and the pressure needed to push the beer through 100 feet of coils tends to just blow foam from over carbonation as the beer Keg warms up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been working on a beverage chiller plate using peltier chips for cooling, as an all electric jockey box. But I it's still sitting on my work bench as an unfinished prototype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-04-29T15:29:40.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20262" CreationDate="2017-04-29T15:36:13.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would add peach juice or puree on the chill at 170° to pasteurize or late fermentation when most of your alcohol is present but still enough yeast action to burn up the new sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-04-29T15:36:13.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20262" CreationDate="2017-04-29T15:58:55.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Secondary, no question.  With the delicate aroma you want to ad as late as possible.  Chop, vacuum seal, freeze.  Thaw them out a couple days before you want to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-04-29T15:58:55.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20260" CreationDate="2017-04-30T11:20:10.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to an article on vinepair[1]:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;New England IPAs are beers that are purposely hazy or cloudy, which can give these brews a smooth, creamy mouthfeel – a departure from the light/dry mouthfeel you often get with West Coast IPAs – with little to no hop bitterness at the end utilizing hops that impart a tropical, juicy sweetness rather than the classic bitter, dank or citrus-y flavors West Coast IPA lovers have come to expect.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sentiment seems to be backed up in all the articles you have listed and I have found relating to these IPAs. Hazy, tropical, creamy mouthfeel seem to be the most distinctive characteristics. Higher chloride levels leading to rounder mouthfeel, also seem to be a defining feature of this style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me they almost sound like a fruity Weissbier to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to know more about how to brew it, find your favourite and e-mail the brewers, most of us are happy to hand out some pointers to a fellow brewer wishing to try and recreate a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;https://vinepair.com/wine-blog/what-is-new-england-ipa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://vinepair.com/wine-blog/what-is-new-england-ipa/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-04-30T11:32:05.200" LastActivityDate="2017-04-30T11:32:05.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20261" CreationDate="2017-04-30T14:19:24.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it just one style of beer or all that do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're describing is typical for beers that depend on hop aroma and flavor such as hoppy pales / IPAs going earthy or showing faults once the fresh hop luster falls off after a month or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many styles are best fresh others get better with age. Basically hop dependant styles are best fresh, while malt and ester depended have much better shelf life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-04-30T14:19:24.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20266" CreationDate="2017-04-30T14:42:03.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;13 brix / 1.050 SG and 21°C/69°F in a 10liter / 2.6g batch your yeast is going to go nuts leaving almost no residual sugars and make the complex alcohols making the nail polish (solvent-like) off flavor, and a 4-5%ABV &quot;soda&quot; if allowed to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally a ginger beer uses a &quot;ginger bug&quot; that ferments just enough to carbonate. Or is stopped by refrigeration or preservative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically that recipe has way to much fermentable sugar and too high of a temperature to keep the growth phase slow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than using time as a marker for when you stop fermentation, take gravity readings and terminate when you get your 0.5-1%ABV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you can reduce the fermentables then add sugar after pastuerizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;FULL&quot; pitch will skip the growth phase and the need for oxygen. So yes more yeast at lower temp will be much cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-04-30T15:02:58.920" LastActivityDate="2017-04-30T15:02:58.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7852" CreationDate="2017-04-30T15:10:32.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ginger bug is mostly wild yeast on the ginger, fermenting the sugars into alcohol and producing CO2 as a byproduct.  It makes a ginger wine.  Ginger beer plant is a scoby of yeast and lactic acid bacteria.  Personaly I prefer kombucha with fresh ginger added to the second fermentation for flavor.  Kombucha is a much stronger and easier scoby to mess around with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14976" LastActivityDate="2017-04-30T15:10:32.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20247" CreationDate="2017-04-30T15:22:06.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To go along with winwaeds answer flow is usually really over done by most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made my own immersion chiller, when I did I built in two temp probes. What I found is that I could reduce the flow to a trickle about 0.5 gallons per minute was optimal for my chiller, more flow didn't pull any more heat off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically very little water really needs to be used. Especially if you can use ice water for the chill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GIVJj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GIVJj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;in/out probes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-05-01T16:05:56.253" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T16:05:56.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20261" CreationDate="2017-04-30T17:12:38.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been generally fortunate and not had many beers spoil, but I have had a few and it has taken a while to track down the offender each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First offender was the bottling tree we were using, we steralised bottles, then but them on the clean tree. It was clean but is was not sterile/sanitised solution for this one was to soak the bottling tree in caustic over night then rinse with Phosphoric acid based no rinse sanitiser before use. That fixed the lactic pick up from the tree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second was the joints on the transfer tubes, I was not religiously dismantling my pipes and sterilising them. Solution was as above, dismantle and soak in caustic for about an hour once a month, then rinse in no rinse sanitiser. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem does not sound like these, but instead sound like the falvour development generated by &quot;2-ethyl fenchol&quot;, which gives a distinctive earthy/damp soil off flavour. This is generally generated by microbes found in cellars, and penetrates through permeable packaging such as caps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first question would be, are you brewing or conditioning or bottling, or storing in a cellar? If so does the cellar smell musty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next question are you using tap or ground water? There is a chance that the contamination is not coming from without(cellar) but within the beer(bacterial), if you a rinsing something with water from a ground source, then there is a chance it is picking up biological contamination there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps, any more details you can provide will help narrow this down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-04-30T17:17:50.490" LastActivityDate="2017-04-30T17:17:50.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20247" CreationDate="2017-05-01T05:56:51.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3 vessel system, with each HLT/MLT/BK at 20 gallons. I run the water fairly slowly, and collect in the HLT, either for use in cleaning or even a new brew.  The water will keep fine for 24 hours when covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T05:56:51.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20260" CreationDate="2017-05-01T20:21:33.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a home brewer, I consider the style an IPA but it is characterized by the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Little or no early additions of hops to the boil, 60/30 minutes. (Mash hopping is okay). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A heavy late addition of hops to the boil kettle, 15 minutes and below. This can also include hop stands while the wort is cooling, like adding hops when the wort temperature gets to around 180 degrees F.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heavy Dry Hopping.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A clean yeast fermented cool. It's an IPA, you have lots of food for the yeast and temperature can get out of hand. California Ale is okay but something slightly more English like a Conan strain (supposedly the Heady Topper strain), or West Coast Ale from Mangrove Jack that finishes a little bit more dry and hits the fruity ester profile by just a smudge over California Ale. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cloudy/Hazy is not required, this is a byproduct of someone assuming that &quot;It's cloudy because they used so much dry hop or late hop&quot;. I call Bullshit! I don't need it crystal clear but don't haze the beer up on purpose for this style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mouth feel: When you use so much hops in a brew, you do get mouth feel from the hops no doubt, and I would describe it as sort of creamy(ish). I have tweaked the mash temperature a bit lower (148 range) to account for the &quot;extra mouthfeel&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hop Selection: The west coast ops you mentioned can be used to brew this style successfully, but everyone is into the tropical hops these days so pick accordingly. Expect to use north of 1 pound of hops for a 10 gallon batch - my latest rang in at 22 ounces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IBU's - who cares...you add everything late and you are looking for perceived bitterness not actual IBU's.         &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T20:21:33.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-02T11:00:10.190" Score="6" ViewCount="10922" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between a lager and an IPA in the brewing process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14983" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-11-02T16:56:21.627" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T16:56:21.627" Title="What is the difference between a lager and an IPA?" Tags="|ipa|lager|beer-styles|process|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20279" CreationDate="2017-05-02T13:13:18.020" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main difference is the yeast, Ale is brewed with a top fermenting yeast s.cerevisiae[1] whereas Lager is brewed with a bottom fermenting yeast s.pastorianus[2]. From this comes the fermentation temperature, ales are fermented at higher temperatures(14-20 C) than lager(10-12 C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lager you would also allow to warm towards the end of the primary fermentation for a couple of days for a Diacetyl Rest, this is not required with an Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation of a lager takes longer than that of an ale due to the lower temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lagers should according to their name then be stored for a period of time in secondary/lagering vessels. This is not always required and a drinkable lager can be produced in under 2 weeks, but I, personally, would question if it should be called a lager if it has not been stored at 0-4 deg C for a week or more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to be more specific and answer your question regarding IPA vs Lager:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lagers evolved initially in Bavaria and later in Bohemia with Pilsner, in the early 1800s. IPA evolved in London then later Burton. Both these Paler varieties of what had gone before where made possible by new indirect kilning methods allowing the production of lighter malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This little bit of history is important as lager is usually made with a double or triple decoction mash, where as IPA are generally made with the more British single temperature infusion mash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no hard and fast rules though. You could technically make either with either method, and these days many lagers are made with single infusion and I am not aware of any IPAs made with decoction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of hop bitterness is another big differentiator IPA are often highly hopped &gt;40 IBU, commonly &gt;60; where as lagers are in general far more subtly hopped. (20-40 IBU)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_cerevisiae&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_cerevisiae&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_pastorianus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_pastorianus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2017-05-04T08:20:53.677" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T08:20:53.677" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20279" CreationDate="2017-05-02T13:13:28.260" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;the ingredients are different.. and lager is fermented for a longer time at a lower temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14984" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T13:13:28.260" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20279" CreationDate="2017-05-02T13:46:58.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Mr_Roads answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lager yeast is unique from ale yeast in that it can breakdown and use &lt;strong&gt;melibiose&lt;/strong&gt;, which is a sugar not fermentable by ale yeasts. This is one reason lagers are generally &quot;cleaner&quot; in mouth feel and residual sweetness over ales with the same recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T13:46:58.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20279" CreationDate="2017-05-02T14:42:01.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply put, there are two overarching umbrellas in beer... ales and lagers. An IPA is an ale. GENERALLY speaking all beers fit under one of these two umbrellas. Once under one of these umbrellas the main difference is brewing technique. Even if you use the exact same ingredients and technique between a beer with ale yeast and the other with lager yeast, one is still an ale and the other is still a lager. You would rarely use the same technique between the two but that's not the point here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can make this a confusing concept to learn is that lager is not only a description but can also be a verb whereas ale doesn't have this usage. An ale is just a description. To &quot;lager&quot; (verb) is a process of conditioning beer (AKA letting it sit) at low temps for an extended amount of time. You can lager any beer, even an ale. Furthermore, you don't necessarily have to lager (verb) a lager (descriptor). The classic example is Anchor Steam which originally was a lager (because it uses a lager yeast) brewed at higher than normal temps, though many people nowadays still apply some level of lagering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, an IPA is an ale and can never be a lager. If you use the same ingredients for an IPA but use lager yeast and then lager it, it becomes an IPL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14436" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-05-03T17:54:24.650" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T17:54:24.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21880" CreationDate="2017-05-02T15:07:15.207" Score="4" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to stop using plastic in my brewing and tought that it was a good idea to &quot;No Chill&quot; in sanke kegs (type &quot;S&quot; spear) instead of my old HDPE containers. But I dont' know if the valve will hold the negative pressure that the no chilling process create.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The valve will let the outside air come in? Or maybe the keg will knead to the inside with the vacuum? Please report your experience doing that or tell me ways to make it safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T01:26:15.717" Title="Can I 'No Chill' in sanke kegs?" Tags="|no-chill|sanke-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="747" CreationDate="2017-05-02T16:18:29.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made honey mead pasteurizing it and without. There is significant taste in both. The unpasteurized mead has more depth of flavor than the pasteurized mead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all of us buy honey from the store which has been pasteurized. Unless you are buying raw honey it may be safe to heat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For dry mead I never add campden tablets. If I back sweeten the mead with honey I add potassium metabisulfite before I bottle it. Some experts recommend adding potassium sorbate and potassium metabisulfites to the honey before you bottle it. But when I read the dangers of potassium sorbate it really scared me. That thing can even catch fire as per the description. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14986" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-05-03T08:26:55.630" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T08:26:55.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20284" CreationDate="2017-05-02T18:28:20.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done this once with second runnings with a corny keg.  I filled the keg right after flame out, then placed into the cooler. Once chilled I transfered to carboy for fermentation. Had no negative effects on keg or beer. The pressure drop from contraction is so minimal the keg and valves are unaffected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess if there was say 50% head space then the negative pressure might be enough to suck air in through valve. But that would be the worst of it. If concerned just put a sanitary air filter on the sanke valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T18:28:20.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20288" CreationDate="2017-05-02T20:28:53.700" Score="3" ViewCount="813" Body="&lt;p&gt;it's my first question here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've downloaded &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewdog.com/diydog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewdog recipe book&lt;/a&gt;, and they use yeasts like &lt;code&gt;Wyeast 1056 - American Ale&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Wyeast 1272 - American Ale II&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;WLP099 Super High Gravity Ale&lt;/code&gt; for &lt;strong&gt;Imperial Stouts&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Recipes: #6, #7, #21, #29, #70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my country I can't buy these yeasts, but I can buy &lt;code&gt;Fermentis Safale&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Mangrove Jacks&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found out that &lt;code&gt;Safale US-05&lt;/code&gt; is a replacement for &lt;code&gt;Wyeast 1056 - American Ale&lt;/code&gt;. Is it correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the replacement for &lt;code&gt;Wyeast 1272 - American Ale II&lt;/code&gt;? And for &lt;code&gt;WLP099 Super High Gravity Ale&lt;/code&gt; (I need it for &lt;code&gt;Tokyo*&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13059" LastEditorUserId="13059" LastEditDate="2017-05-02T20:58:26.723" LastActivityDate="2017-05-13T07:32:52.607" Title="Wyeast yeast replacements: US-05?" Tags="|yeast|stout|imperial|wyeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20287" CreationDate="2017-05-02T21:22:01.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, kind of....WY1056, WLP001 and US-05 all had the same original source, but through time and the process of drying 05, they've diverged a bit.  1056 and 001 are very clean, with the main differences being mouthfeel.  US-05 is not as clean and has a tendency to throw a peach/apricot ester that I and others find disagreeable.  But it's pretty much as close as you're going to get in a dry yeast.  There is no dry replacement for 1272.  And US-05 will work as a replacement for 099 if you pitch more of it to account for higher gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T21:22:01.757" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-03T12:33:53.660" Score="3" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a closed immersion wort chiller system. Does any one have a suggestion for the type of pump I should get? I figure since the water isn't actually going in the beer it doesn't have to be food grade. Any suggestions would be appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14531" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T15:49:41.330" Title="Closed immersion system" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20289" CreationDate="2017-05-03T13:39:57.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could literally use any pump that will move water at a rate that you're satisfied with.  In fact, I would consider one of the fountain pumps from Harbor Freight (if you're in the US).  With a fountain pump, you could simply drop the pump into, for example, a cooler filled with ice water, run the water through some tubing, through your chiller and return it to the cooler.  You will have a lot of ice melt very quickly though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T13:39:57.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20289" CreationDate="2017-05-03T14:58:30.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just about any submersible pond pump will work for 33°+ coolant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your intent to a closed system is no water/coolant loss these are my experiences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried a closed system with glycol at 20°F using a counter flow chiller. Worked great at first dropping out put wort to 35°F but quickly lost effenciency from returning hot glycol to the cold glycol reservoir. Was chilling 13.5 gallons of wort with 15 gallons of glycol. This problem can be fixed by simply having a hot reservoir, so it doesn't heat up the cold reservoir. But then your chill volume is a one shot chance to complete the chill. I've opted for future system to adopt what commercial systems use, as a double chiller system using ground water through the first chiller to knock the temp down most of the way then the glycol chiller to reach even lager pitching temps in one pass. Then I think a single reservoir glycol system will work. But at the expense of water loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the glycol system I tried the ice chest thing with ice water and again the hot return defeats the ice in the first 10% of the chill process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all any system to be closed and not waste water will need to have a coolant volume several times larger than the volume of wort being chilled. This volume ratio is reduced by the greater temperature differentials between coolant and the wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main concept to keep in mind is that you are only transferring heat. &lt;em&gt;Mass (wort/coolant) will continue to have its' heat energy until absorbed by other mass&lt;/em&gt;. The only heat that is lost in a system is the miniscule amount transfered to the atmosphere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some basic math. If your wort volume and coolant volume are equal you can expect the final temp of both to be the average temp of both. So 20° coolant 212° wort can expect 116° of both masses. &#xA;(CTxCV)+WT/CV+1 = final temp.&#xA;Coolant Temp, Coolant Volume unit, Wort Temp, formula assumes wort volume unit of 1 and CV evenly divisible by WV.&#xA;So to get 10g of wort to 68° you need 30g of 20° coolant in a closed system that returns hot to the cold reservoir. This doesn't factor the glycol refridgerators contribution to cooling incoming hot coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-05-03T15:49:41.330" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T15:49:41.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20261" CreationDate="2017-05-03T16:57:06.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The changes that can happen to your brew over time are caused by a couple different practices. Please note, I don't know your skill level, so I don't know how much you know about brewing.  I'm not trying to insult anyone. Just offering information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Spoilage&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned, this is bacteria or possibly wild yeasts. You mention that you have tried several sterilization methods, etc.  But you don't list what those are.  Here's a basic primer on sanitation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First off, CLEAN. This cannot be overstated. Something cannot be sanitized if it is not clean.  For cleaning tubing without a pump, soak in Oxyclean Free or PBW overnight. Make sure your hoses are fully immersed in the solution. (Add the PBW/OxyClean to the water, stir well, then add hoses.)  Let sit overnight. This will help remove any film that could be accumulating in your hoses. You need to be able to sanitize UNDER this, and you can't if it's there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything that touches your wort AFTER the boil needs to be fully sanitized. Use something simple like StarSan.  &lt;strong&gt;MIX ACCORDING TO THE DIRECTIONS!!&lt;/strong&gt; Anything that touches the wort needs to soak in this for at least a few minutes. (Overkill is better than spoilage.) Mash paddles, hoses, fittings, tubes, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't add water to your brew after the boil.  Some people do a partial boil, and if you can't get away from this, there's not much you can do, but the entire volume of liquid really should be boiled. It's just one more place you can add contamination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you fermenting in plastic? How long has it been since you replaced those buckets?  Even the simple act of cleaning can add micro scratches which allow bacteria to hide.  Buckets are cheaper than throwing out multiple batches of beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you doing a secondary fermentation in another vessel? I'd question whether that's really truly necessary.  A whole host of potential problems can be avoided just by not doing a secondary transfer, and one of those is contamination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool your wort quickly and do it with a lid or other cover on your boil kettle. The longer you take, the more errant bacteria has a chance to get into your beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same with bottling. Do it as quickly as possible. Everything that touches your beer should be disassembled and sanitized.  Bottles should be completely clean and soaked in Star San, or ran through the dishwasher. (IMO, do not use the dishwasher to clean, but that's just me.  I'm not convinced that enough spray gets into the small bottle opening. The dishwasher is for sanitizing, IMO.) Sanitize even your bottlecaps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Aging/Oxidation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a little harder to lock down, and it involves your process.  Earthy is typically a flavor I connect with sanitation, but I offer these tips in an effort of completeness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;During the Brew Day&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use finings to drop as much protein and fatty lipids out of suspension when brewing.  I tend to like Whirfloc very much for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;During Bottling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid as much splashing as possible when bottling. Once fermentation has occurred, you want to avoid aeration of wort. Do not pour, use hoses and siphons to transfer. (Keeping in mind all the sanitation stuff above.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid pulling the trub at the bottom of your fermenter into the bottling bucket. Some of the stuff that settles out can stale your beer more quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light probably isn't contributing to earthiness, but is more associated with skunk-smell and -flavor. It should be said, though. For storage of bottles, you want cool and dark.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I recommend a cold crash if you can do it.  This helps things (potential staling agents) drop out of suspension. A cold crash is quickly dropping the temperature of your fully-fermented beer down to near-freezing.  If you're using an s-type airlock, you won't have to worry about sucking back airlock liquid, but you might have issues when using a 3-piece, and almost certainly will if using a tube into a bowl or glass of water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A great way to drop staling agents is using gelatin when the fermenter is COLD (see the above tip on cold-crashing). Gelatin works best when the liquid is cold. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/01/05/the-gelatin-effect-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brulosophy&lt;/a&gt; (5 gallon batch size):&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...combining 1/2 tsp Knox Unflavored Gelatin with 1/4 cup cool water then microwaving it in short (7 second) bursts until it reached 145-150°F, stirring with the end of a thermometer between each burst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's about it.  I hope some of these tips help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4002" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T16:57:06.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20266" CreationDate="2017-05-04T20:58:23.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with Evil Zymurgist 100% but wanted to emphasize something. I've never heard that lower fermentation temps will encourage ester production. Also, definitely use a hydrometer for any level of precision. Forty hours is enough time to ferment a significant percentage of your sugars. I'd be willing to bet you've probably been getting a higher alcohol content than you've been assuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14436" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T20:58:23.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-05T16:17:24.207" Score="3" ViewCount="1062" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general caution I read when I started this batch of cider was to not do flavoring during fermentation as to avoid off taste weirdness. So my cider is now fermented and I'd like to keep it dry but would like to add some flavoring. Potentially ginger. &#xA;I have carbonation drops that I plan to use for carbonation, I figure these will impart some sweetness by themselves whether I like it or not. But in terms of adding flavoring, what are my options?  To do ginger at this point my only idea is to gri her ginger and steep it like a tea to make some sort of ginger flavored water, then add some to each bottle right as I bottle. But I would guess That ginger will naturally have some sugar in it(?) so I fear that might screw things up. &#xA;This is all an experiment and a small batch but hoping someone might have some advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15004" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T06:42:22.320" Title="Flavoring Cider at bottling" Tags="|cider|bottle|flavoring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19162" CreationDate="2017-05-06T15:10:15.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slightly cooler pitch temperature and keeping the fermentation temps under 80F  will keep the violent krausen to a minimum.  This  used to be a problem for me and cooler pitch temps have resolved this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15007" LastActivityDate="2017-05-06T15:10:15.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18313" CreationDate="2017-05-06T15:12:27.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say it would be a matter of how that volume relates to the overall volume of your mash.  Presumably your strike water and sparge water volumes are much larger than 20 gallons, potentially making it negligible (or at least within a reasonable amount of error/variance).  If your water additions are smaller and that 20 gallons is a large percentage of your mash/sparge volume, you will certainly need to take it into account, though I think mostly in terms of how much wort you collect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option for addressing this (though for a system as large as I'm thinking your is it may be costly) may be fly/continuous sparging.  That way you're maintaining the volume required to cover the grains and are rinsing the converted sugars out efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, more details on your circumstance would be helpful to get a better idea of what your constraints are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-06-07T01:50:41.913" LastActivityDate="2017-06-07T01:50:41.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20298" CreationDate="2017-05-07T06:28:49.440" Score="5" ViewCount="2402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the hobby and recently made my first brew,  I've used a simple plastic fermenter (25L) for primary,  and after I finished the bottling process I washed the fermenter and waited for a couple of weeks before washing it again thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time I got around to the second wash a bad odor has developed and hasn't disappear completely when I finished washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer from the first brew turned out ok, I don't think it's the source of the odor, It mighty have been the water from the first wash, I used a hose behind my house. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this odor contaminate my wort if I'll use the same fermenter again? Will it affect the quality of the brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if so, is there any way to get rid of it without ruining the Fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-05-07T15:07:19.253" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T13:33:12.067" Title="Can a bad odor from an empty fermenter be a sign of contamination?" Tags="|fermentation|equipment|sanitation|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20297" CreationDate="2017-05-07T12:56:36.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does the fermenter smell like? In my experience plastic fermenters have a tendency to pick up smells from prior fermentations and consistently smell like that, even when clean and empty. I've successfully fermented new batches in a fermenter that smelled like a prior batch but if it was a new smell I might have been a bit more concerned. It's certainly possible that microorganisms in the water you used to rinse out the fermenter were able to take a foothold and as a result cause that smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say give it another once over of cleaning and sanitizing but let it sit for a while with the sanitizer in it before you brew your next batch. That way if there's anything nasty and especially resilient in there you should kill it even if you don't get rid of the smell. Then try fermenting in it again and see how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, plastic is somewhat known (albeit amongst the fairly paranoid homebrewing community) for harboring certain yeasts and bacteria in tiny scratches that can ruin subsequent fermentations. So if you're​ really concerned about potential contamination the best solution is to get a new fermenter and make sure you clean and sanitize it before and after each use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the smell is reasonably close to what your last fermentation smelled like that's probably overkill. Try using it again and just make sure you a good job of cleaning and sanitizing everything that touches your wort post-boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2017-05-07T12:56:36.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20294" CreationDate="2017-05-07T17:27:53.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you making still cider or sparkling cider? If you are making sparkling cider than your plan should work since the amount of sugar is negligible. If you are making still cider, you might get a slight effervesce if anything at all. What I suggest is to add some ginger to the cider now as chunks or something like that and let it age for a couple of weeks to impart the ginger flavor, then bottle after any chance of fermentation has passed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-05-07T17:27:53.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20265" CreationDate="2017-05-08T00:34:01.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have or can arrange an abundant supply of ice, this old-style (and low-tech) soda fountain solution may work for you: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sodadispenserdepot.com/how-it-works/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sodadispenserdepot.com/how-it-works/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scroll down till you see the cold plate, OK? I looked into these because I happened to pick one up for cheap at a garage sale. Never actually used it, though, so I can't tell you how effective they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2017-05-08T00:41:03.297" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T00:41:03.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20297" CreationDate="2017-05-08T08:08:36.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a few 'smelly' plastic fermenters in my time, never has greatly impacted the beer coming out of them. If you are concerned then letting a bicarbonate of soda solution sit in them overnight then sanitising and drying before storage can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it smells rotten or sulphurous, then I would fill it with bleach and let that sit overnight before a brew day, and rinse with a no-rinse sanitiser or boiling water to make sure you clean out the bleach. If it gives a bad brew after this treatment bin it and if you can afford it go stainless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-04-12T13:33:12.067" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T13:33:12.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20297" CreationDate="2017-05-08T08:56:04.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What also helps against smells is using (denatured) 100% ethanol. Rub the fermenter with some cotton drenched in it, then let it dry. Works every time at my side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T08:56:04.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20309" CreationDate="2017-05-08T16:34:20.993" Score="2" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only few information can be found on HERMS-like layouts for which the coil is placed in the mash tun instead of the HLT, like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/mead/item/2799-build-a-heated-mash-tun-projects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one presented here&lt;/a&gt;. One big advantage I see is to prevent stuck mashes (which I currently encounter). What are possible disadvantages compared to a &quot;classic&quot; HERMS? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13774" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T12:45:46.760" Title="Pros and cons of HERMS with coil-heated mash tun" Tags="|mash-tun|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20297" CreationDate="2017-05-08T20:27:37.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bite the bullet and get a 7 gallon stainless fermenter.   It only hurts once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15007" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T20:27:37.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20304" CreationDate="2017-05-09T07:37:14.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the mayor advantages of using the &quot;classic&quot; HERMS is that you will get circulation on the mash, whilst heating it. So the advantage with this might be that you will not get stuck mashes, you will also have to stir in order to get an even heat-exchange since there will be no cirulation of the liquid inside the mash-tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to add circulation in the form of pumping round the liquid, you might as well use the &quot;classic&quot; HERMS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T07:37:14.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20304" CreationDate="2017-05-09T13:06:40.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the pros and cons I see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros (coil in mash)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;could be configured as a two vessel system, the boil tank can double as hlt for batch sparge allowing step mash. But then lose ability to fly sparge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;no need to vorlauf (set grain bed) for step mash&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;could use a small heat souce and small volume of thermal liquid in a closed system, allowing the use of other solutions that transfer heat better.  Like glycol.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;easier to use electric heating element. Using electric elements in direct contact with wort usually denatures enzymes on contact since the elements get very hot and can't easily be set to just &quot;warm&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mash volume is basically static. Doing a 5g mash in system designed for 10g will reduce the heating efficiency because the exposed coil will loose heat to the air and not into the mash. Making it difficult to dial in your system with different batch sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Loss of recirculation. Causing hot spots around the coil, requiring stirring. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;possible loss of the advantages of a HLT. Fly sparge, recirculation, better temp control. If it does use a HLT, I would prefer the coil be in the HLT.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes: Whatever system you decide to use, you should never heat the heating liquid above the denature point of you target enzymes. You may be temped to set heat to 168°F and let your mash step up in one shot, but this will denature those enzymes in close contact with the heat source. This is where you heat transfer efficiency is important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-05-09T13:18:29.230" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T13:18:29.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20304" CreationDate="2017-05-10T12:45:46.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried this and the Biggest Con: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning the coil - for me a complete PITA, never gets fully clean. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot spots - read takes more of your time to stir the mash and disrupt the grain bed. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put that coil in the HLT and buy a pump to recirculate if you have a choice. You will not regret it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T12:45:46.760" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-11T03:05:26.403" Score="2" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do 5 gallon all grain batches using a 16 gallon Bayou BK, a 10 gallon water cooler mash tun, and a burner. Eventually I'd like to upgrade my equipment to electric with either a RIMS or HERMS setup, and make some sort of automated system. I've been researching a lot on controllers, but all the information out there is still somewhat fuzzy to me in terms of what they can or cannot do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can BrewPi (or something similar) control the electric kettle(s)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When creating your own DIY BrewPi, why do you need a RaspberryPi and&#xA;Arduino -- shouldn't the Arduino be able to act as a web server?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I hook up a Netduino and have it do all the&#xA;monitoring/controlling along with acting as web server? (I know C#/.NET)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is using a BCS overkill?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What about other kinds, such as Brewtroller?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of starting small and using the controller to measure/control my fermentation temperature in order to understand things better. Then I want to upgrade my system to electric and have the controller regulate temperatures in the mash. Finally I would want it to control pumps/flow control. Can the BCS do this? Can Arduino/RPi?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, I'm looking for a controller FAQ and what it can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I setup a Raspberry Pi 3 running BrewPi connected to an Arduino that powers my mini fridge for controlling fermentation temperatures. So far so good: brewed a lager and two ales successfully, which is critical here in Southern California. The next step is a similar hardware setup for controlling mash and boil temperatures once I eventually build an electric system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12524" LastEditorUserId="12524" LastEditDate="2018-04-05T20:49:14.117" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T20:49:14.117" Title="General questions about controllers" Tags="|equipment|electric|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-11T08:28:51.480" Score="2" ViewCount="2166" Body="&lt;p&gt;This my absolutely first time brewing beer.  I'm excited to try brewing my own and experimenting with flavours etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a kit from a from a brew store which included a fermenter and everything I thought I'd need. I asked for the recipe for a Leffe Blonde.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after careful sanitising, I mixed all of the ingredients in the fermenter together, and pitched the yeast. The wort temperature at this stage was 24C/75F. I measured the gravity then, and it was 1.052&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty cold where I am in Sydney now, and after a couple of nights, the fermenter temp dropped to about 16C/61F. I ended up buying a heat pad and temperature controller to keep the fermenter temp between 19-20C/66-68F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 4 days the bubbling in the airlock stopped, I measured the gravity at 1.022.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured a week later and the gravity hasn't changed. It will now be 3 weeks on Sunday and the gravity still hasn't changed. It tastes a little like beer but quite sweet and yeasty, and it doesn't look like the yeast has flocculated and is still suspended in the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be going on, have I somehow got a stuck fermentation? Should I just have some more patience and leave it longer? There is no Krausen on the top of the beer and it seems that the yeast in the kit was an S-33. I don't know what other information to provide...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15022" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T20:28:35.063" Title="Fermentation seems to be stuck at 1.022 after 2 1/2 weeks" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20315" CreationDate="2017-05-11T09:11:17.977" Score="5" ViewCount="1104" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brew is ready for bottling, this time I doubled the recipe and fermented two Triple Brewferm can kits. I added three cans of Lyle's golden syrup (around 1362 grams), as it gives a better taste. The total amount of the batch is around 18 litres. The OG was 1070 and the FG is now 1014, a bit higher than the predicted 1010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use the same sugar for priming? Is there a risk of ruining the batch or the taste if using a different type of sugar, i.e. granulated sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12587" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T20:44:23.233" Title="Using different sugar for priming" Tags="|sugar|priming|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20314" CreationDate="2017-05-11T10:18:28.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should have no problem using table sugar for priming, but you can use golden syrup if you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say there is no risk of ruining the flavour. The amount you are using for priming will not affect the taste, yeast will convert all table sugar into CO2 and alcohol, so there will be no detecable flavour affect on your finished brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T10:18:28.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20313" CreationDate="2017-05-11T10:21:12.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably have a stuck fermentation, if it is not tasting bad then that is good news. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would open it up and pitch a fresh starter of made up with some new S33.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to make a starter: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMhFerNTwbQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMhFerNTwbQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T10:21:12.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20312" CreationDate="2017-05-11T13:34:52.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately yes the whole brew process could be completely automated with available sensors and mechanical controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BrewPI allows inputs from switches and temp sensors and outputs for on/off relays all controlled by code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most use these types of controllers for logging and controlling fermentation temp. But I've seen systems that even do dough in, step mash, sparge and do adjunct and hop additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest hurdle for an automated system is the mechanical side. Accuators that drop pre measured ingredients, liquid valves, and pumps are all pretty easy. But a paddle system for a mash is a different story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To automate the complete process would take many many different temp sensors and mechanical Accuators to take a brew from raw ingredients to finished beer. Even then would still have a lot of hands on needs even with the best equipment. With the best of code it would still need a halt for brewer assistance for things like a stuck sparge, stuck fermentation, Diacetyl check, and fining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T13:34:52.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20312" CreationDate="2017-05-11T15:24:54.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use Arduinos/Netduino/Pis to do your control and make it accessible via a small web server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before you go this route of writing some small C# script/python/etc... to get it all running may I suggest you take a look at little PID temperature controllers like these(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KYL3W32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KYL3W32&lt;/a&gt;). They have an internal 230V relay, and you hook up the probe and relay, sanitise the probe and drop it in your vessel. They are really easy to set up and require no coding; which I always prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T15:24:54.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20313" CreationDate="2017-05-11T15:50:00.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume this is an extract beer?  Extracts often have a high amount of unfermentables which can lead to this situation.  It would help if we knew the recipe.  If that's the case, you can add al the yeast in the world and it won't do any good.  Given an OG of 1.052, the S33 should have been able to chew through it if the wort was fermentable enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T15:50:00.550" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-11T19:38:03.487" Score="3" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing with extract for 1 year with good results so I decided to move to all-grain brewing, with a Grainfather.&#xA;Last Sunday I brewed my first beer, an APA from an AG kit, but I made two mistakes when using my new toy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - I accidentally removed the filter so my wort went in the fermenter with all its trub&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - I failed while using my counterflow chiller and wort entered the fermenter at 40-45°C (105-115 Fahrenheit). Since I don't have a fridge, it took a lot of time to cool down to proper pitching temperature, around 12 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the beer has been fermenting for 2-3 days at the right temperature with Mangrove Jack's M44 but it is producing a weird and quite disgusting olive/vegetable smell (maybe DMS?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tasted it and obviously that smell/flavor is there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think?&#xA;Is it too early to say anything?&#xA;Can it be DMS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I throw out everything if it still tastes like this when primary is finished?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14772" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T14:14:58.193" Title="First all-grain batch, probably a disaster." Tags="|beginner|dms|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-12T00:04:04.400" Score="1" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am aware that esters in finished beer are usually caused by high temperatures during fermentation. This fact is not confusing to me and needs no elaboration. What has me confused is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintessential.com.au/resources/articles/ethyl-acetate-a-misunderstood-fermentation-problem.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; that another user posted recently in the comments section of &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/20266/soda-fermentation-dynamics-and-off-flavours&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. The article had he and I very confused.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;It basically says  that an increase in fermentation temperature will actually &lt;em&gt;decrease&lt;/em&gt; ethyl acetate production and lower temps actually &lt;em&gt;encourage&lt;/em&gt; ethyl acetate production. It even sites a source (that I couldn't find) that greatest production of ethyl acetate was between 10C and 21C. Everything I've ever read and tried (I accidentally made &quot;banana-beer&quot; once) indicates that this is the exact opposite of the truth.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;I've only been brewing a year but I've been reading about brewing for several years so I feel like even though I'm lacking in experience, I have a pretty decent base knowledge. Either this article is completely inaccurate or I have overlooked something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14436" LastEditorUserId="14436" LastEditDate="2017-05-19T13:26:48.037" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T11:44:11.640" Title="Confusing article about ester production" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|clarification|science|banana|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20320" CreationDate="2017-05-12T02:43:45.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Realy too Early. that smell its probably acetaldehide Just w8 10-14 days then cold for a few days then carbonate and then taste. &#xA;your beer is Realy green for tasting right now. &#xA;So please w8 for it. &#xA;Dms generates between 64c and 100c so if you. Cold to 45 no dms issues.&#xA;try to add a second step for your counterflow, Just 2 metters of copper inside ice Will be enough for cold from 45c to 15-18c. &#xA;Get a refrigerator fermentation temp is one of the most importants parts.&#xA;Bye hope it helps you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13588" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T02:43:45.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20321" CreationDate="2017-05-12T07:56:44.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ethyl Acetate is the ester of ethanol and acetic acid and has the aroma of pear drops to solvent depending on the concentration. The taste threshold is roughly 120mg/L. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isoamyl acetate also known as isopentyl acetate, is the ester which tastes like bananas in low concentrations. [1]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the yeast strain there will be differing levels of higher alcohols which will be oxidised to organic acids which with the react with Acetly-CoA to form different esters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is true that the temp range commonly used for brewing may heighten production of these compounds but it does so thusly: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;These include fermentation temperature, where an increase from 50°F to 77°F (10°C–25°C) has been found to increase the concentration of ethyl acetate from 12.5 to 21.5 mg/L.&quot; [2]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see this does not, under ideal conditions, push Ethyl Acetate levels beyond the 120mg/L taste threshold. There are a range of other factors that can push ester production up to higher levels that break this taste threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low pitching rates;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low oxygen availability in the wort;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high C to N ratio in higher gravity worts;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isoamyl_acetate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isoamyl_acetate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/O1rjQz3DYu/ethyl-acetate/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/O1rjQz3DYu/ethyl-acetate/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please feel free to ask more questions in the comments and I will expand the answer as requested. I have to run now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T08:07:58.943" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T08:07:58.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20325" CreationDate="2017-05-12T10:26:34.230" Score="3" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today was a brew day for me, and while I was waiting for the water to boil, I re-hydrated my yeast. &#xA;Unfortunately my wort didn't cool as fast as I Hoped and my yeast starter lost all of it's foam in the meantime. &#xA;Is it dead? Can I still use the yeast some how? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastEditorUserId="15010" LastEditDate="2017-05-16T19:56:48.210" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T19:56:48.210" Title="My re-hydrated yeast has lost a lot of his foam, is it alive?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20324" CreationDate="2017-05-12T14:27:09.807" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you don't have a problem. Yeast does not die that fast. You can still use the rehydrated yeast, it will get active back again when you pitch it in your wort. If you did not cover it, then just hope that nothing else gets in your wort also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T14:27:09.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20320" CreationDate="2017-05-12T17:46:41.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;DMS is created every moment the wort is hot converted from SMM(above 95°F if memory is correct)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually it's not an issue with 90 minute uncovered boils. This usually even allows for no chill overnight cooling with little DMS, but some grain bills will even so. DMS has a half life of 40 minutes at boil temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say it was from a short boil and slow chill made the DMS. And then converted DMSO which has a boil point much higher than water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately ones there it's there to stay yeast will not clean it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T17:46:41.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20320" CreationDate="2017-05-12T21:41:57.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you are just fine. Relax, Denny Conn says &quot;Barley wants to be turned into beer&quot; and that is a great realization in this hobby, just make sure the yeast are fermenting...and enjoy the brew. Fermentation is often a smelly affair, but our yeast friends are great guests as they clean up after the party. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T21:41:57.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20321" CreationDate="2017-05-12T23:00:54.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ethyl acetate is created by all brewery yeast. This is a volatile ester as are all the ethyl esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally these esters are created when the yeast is stressed but remain when yeast isn't given the chance to reconsume them or is incapable due to conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also these esters being volatile are subject to being blown off with cO2. Which may account for the article stating warmer temp reduced ethyl acetate, not that it reduced its production but rather was easily blown off with c02 in vigorous fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reduce the ethyl esters aerate wort and make sure yeast is healthy and pitched in proper amount for your brew and fermentaion temp is according to makers recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T23:00:54.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20287" CreationDate="2017-05-13T06:33:28.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say you &quot;need it for Tokyo&quot;? If you're patient &lt;a href=&quot;http://advanced-brewing.com/0_liquid_yeast.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Advanced Brewing&lt;/a&gt; ships specialty yeasts in Japan, though they don't update their stocks so you'll need to check with them to see what they have available by trying to place an order first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also been impatient myself and used alternate strains as replacements. In my research I've found that many strains just go by different names from different manufacturers. There are others that can be found with a simple Google search but &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19rL_C_d2BCp-QJ43zeFtl7D0i3cryMa_Uz81EkvS5ow/edit?authkey=CP-m-dUJ&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;authkey=CP-m-dUJ&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;authkey=CP-m-dUJ#gid=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is one chart&lt;/a&gt; to help with your conversions. Scroll to cell 202 to read about US-05.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your specific question about yeast for stouts, I recently used S-04 for my own &quot;Darjeeling Oatmeal Stout&quot; recipe--and it worked wonders, making a delicious brew--so I'd say go for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15027" LastEditorUserId="15027" LastEditDate="2017-05-13T07:32:52.607" LastActivityDate="2017-05-13T07:32:52.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20312" CreationDate="2017-05-14T16:54:45.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a temperature regulation system for fermentation and a mash controller for my electric kettle using Arduino and Raspberry Pi. The Arduino controls the hardware while the Pi handles the web interface, logging, etc. The Pi queries the Arduino over a USB serial connection. There are two reasons for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The PID software and other stuff I wrote for the Arduino used up most of its memory, and I'm not sure I would have been able to add the web interface there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I prefer to have the hardware control and internet connection separate. I don't want the temperature controller to have problems if the WiFi goes down. With separated functions the whole internet can crash and my Arduinos would keep on doing their job without even knowing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arduinos are very robust and use a dedicated operating system that is doing nothing else but running one program. A Raspberry Pi is a much more powerful system capable of doing multiple things, but that also introduces more possibilities for unwanted interactions and things to go wrong. I started with just an Arduino and later added the Raspberry Pi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14959" LastActivityDate="2017-05-14T16:54:45.553" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20297" CreationDate="2017-05-15T12:04:50.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it come with a spigot? Those things have a tendency to be skipped while cleaning and sanitising. So, if you have one: take it off and soak it for a night in some sanitiser solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15030" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T12:04:50.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20320" CreationDate="2017-05-15T14:14:58.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, you shouldn't have anything to worry about.  In fact, I don't worry at all if hop particles get into my fermentor.  As far as cooling it goes, in an idea world, you'd want to get it to pitching temp and pitch yeast as soon as you can however, I've brewed with friends a few hours away and pitched when I got home with no adverse effect. I am curious about why you think you need to filter out the Vitamin B Complex (yeast) suspended in your beer.  These are important... if you drink too much, a bottle of water the next morning will cure your hangover but if you filter, those vitamins and minerals won't be there. Just cold crash it and be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T14:14:58.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-15T14:32:16.890" Score="6" ViewCount="12224" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding it seems Munich is a base malt whereas Caramunich is a crystal malt, and the numbering is the amount of roasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that correct?  Are Caramunich and Munich interchangeable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15033" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T14:03:43.457" Title="Caramunich 1, 2, and 3 vs. Munich 1, 2, and 3" Tags="|mash|malt|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20333" CreationDate="2017-05-15T15:23:42.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you are correct and no they're not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T15:23:42.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20333" CreationDate="2017-05-15T19:38:27.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correct. If you look for their EBC/Lovibond values, you should be able to match them to other producers malts, if needed.&#xA;For example, Weyermann Caramunich II is around 120 EBC (they say 110-130), which equals more or less to Briess Crystal 40. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14772" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T19:38:27.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20333" CreationDate="2017-05-15T22:51:57.060" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the other answers have stated, the malts are indeed different.  As with all malts, they can vary between malt companies but these varieties are different regardless.  Perhaps more importantly, Munich is a base malt that is provided by many maltsters, while CaraMunich seems to be a Weyermann product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the individual differences, I find that viewing the maltster's websites are a great way to learn about the qualities a malt is expected to impart on your beer.  Using the Weyermann website for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/weyermann-munich-lt-type1-25kg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Munich&lt;/a&gt; (5.1 - 7°L)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Weyermann® Munich Type 1 malt ('Light Munich') is a kilned lager-style malt made from quality, two-row, German spring barley. Usually used a specialty malt, it has a high enzyme content despite its color, and can constitute up to 100% of the grist. It produces robust malt characteristics, including full body, amber color, and smooth mouthfeel. The flavor is strongly malty and the rich aroma has notes of light caramel, honey, and bread. Munich malt is typically used in dark lagers and ales, especially Munich-style lagers, various bock styles, and German festival beers like Märzenbier, Festbier, and Oktoberfest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the CaraMunich varieties, the description is basically the same across the board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/weyermann-caramunich-1-25-kg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CaraMunich Type I&lt;/a&gt; (31 - 38°L)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/weyermann-caramunich-2-25-kg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CaraMunich Type II&lt;/a&gt; (42 - 49°L)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/weyermann-caramunich-3-25-kg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CaraMunich Type III&lt;/a&gt; (53 - 60.5°L)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Weyermann® CARAMUNICH® Type X is a drum-roasted caramel malt made from two-row, German barley. It contributes dark amber to copper hues, and adds a rich malt accent with notes of biscuit and an intense caramel aroma. CARAMUNICH® Type X also add body and improve head retention. Suitable for use in all lager and ale styles of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;malt aroma wheel&quot; at the bottom of the pages seems to be the same for each as well.  Given that, it's probably best to consider what the color of the malt tells us.  Higher Lovibond ratings (°L) correspond to darker malts.  So CaraMunich Type I will result in a light colored beer than Type III, assuming they're using in the same proportions.  Similarly, darker colored caramel malts generally provide a deeper caramel or burnt-sugar flavor while lighter ones provide a more honey- or candy-like flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that said, Munich is a base malt that can be used as a small or large part of the grist for different levels of effect.  The CaraMunich malts are caramel malts and should be used in smaller quantities, as specialty malts.  Ultimately substituting any of these malts for any another will result in a different beer.  When a substitution is necessary, looking for a malt that is closer in color and description to the malt you a substituting would generally be better than using a malt simply because it has &quot;Munich&quot; in the name.  Though it obviously depends on what you're looking for and in what ways you're willing to alter the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T22:51:57.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7157" CreationDate="2017-05-16T12:31:10.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you drop some of the British Maltsters a line I am sure they will be happy to help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.siba.co.uk/directory/supplier-associate-members/maltsters/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.siba.co.uk/directory/supplier-associate-members/maltsters/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T12:31:10.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20333" CreationDate="2017-05-16T13:15:28.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To maybe summarize a couple of the other answers here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes they are different, and no they cannot be used in the same ways.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Munich 1 and 2 are kilned and are crystal malts, &lt;strong&gt;not base malts per se&lt;/strong&gt; and can be used in mash or steep (in small quantiy). Similar to CaraMunich malts in flavor and color but do not aid body and head the way Cara malts do.  Because the kilning is mild they can be 100% of the grist, but they have low diastatic power and will have almost no beta-amylase. But they still have starches to be converted, so are considered a &quot;base malt&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All &quot;Cara&quot; malts have been malted and &lt;strong&gt;crystalized&lt;/strong&gt; in a way to add body and head retention. Because of this &lt;strong&gt;they may be used in the mash or just steeped&lt;/strong&gt; to get their benifiets. But the portion of the grist is a fraction of the base malts because &lt;strong&gt;they contain a lot of unfermentables&lt;/strong&gt;. Using to much will make a beer sweet or even appear to have a stuck fermentation even though it's completely fermentened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as color. All malts can be interchanged for a specific final SRM/lovibond. The underlying effects are flavor, aroma, body, head retention and residual sugar. So while color can easily be manipulated doing so effects the final beer in drastic ways. For example a 10% grist of SRM 20 crystal will have the same final SRM of a 5% grist of SRM 40 crystal malt. But the later will have less of the underlying properties and effects on the finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-05-16T14:03:43.457" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T14:03:43.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20354" CreationDate="2017-05-16T15:26:26.380" Score="4" ViewCount="2827" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have gotten lots of questions about grain crush and I would like some validation on my crush. I spray my grain with about 8 to 10 oz of water per 20 lbs and let it sit 30 minutes before crush. Then on to a Barley Crusher and Dewalt cordless dril run slowly. Maybe 10 minutes crush time. Here is a picture.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ROdn8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Milled Grain&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T13:52:44.987" Title="What does a good grain crush look like?" Tags="|all-grain|grain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20339" CreationDate="2017-05-16T16:25:51.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, what you're looking for is removal of the husk and to increase the surface area to volume ratio, to a certain extent.  Why to a certain extent? Flour has a very high surface area to volume ratio but if you use that, a lot of your grain is going to get stuck during lauter (we refer to this as a stuck sparge).  So, to prevent this, we compromise and get the grain particles big enough so that they won't go though our lauter (and by leaving the husks in the mash or even adding husks, like rice hulls, we achieve this).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, basically, what I've said, with a lot of words, is that you want the husks removed from the grain and the inside of the grain to be broken a few times.  &quot;Best result&quot; is according to how your lautering.  What I do (and most of my brewing friends do) is use a credit card as a gauge for the space between the rollers. I'm not sure if I'd even heard of anybody needing to wet they grain before milling it.  That seems like a potential to create a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T16:25:51.553" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20355" CreationDate="2017-05-16T18:28:46.767" Score="5" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brand new to brewing, but I've been wanting to do it for a while. I've seen some videos. Seems that, like cooking, recipes are key at the beginning until one gains enough experience to experiment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any beer recipe websites that cater to beginners?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I specifically want to avoid websites that sell pre-packaged recipes as part of their business. I'd prefer to order ingredients myself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15025" LastActivityDate="2018-04-25T17:24:35.190" Title="Recipe websites catering to beginners?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|recipe|software|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20346" CreationDate="2017-05-16T19:24:36.877" Score="2" ViewCount="7061" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which 2-3 types of beer &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; take the &lt;em&gt;shortest&lt;/em&gt; time to brew &lt;strong&gt;from start&lt;/strong&gt; (very first step with all ingredients) &lt;strong&gt;to finish&lt;/strong&gt; (drinking), and what makes them take so little time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to understand what makes a beer brew quickly/slowly, but specifically for a few examples. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15025" LastEditorUserId="15025" LastEditDate="2017-05-16T21:04:09.087" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T06:34:10.577" Title="Which beers brew quickest, and why?" Tags="|chemistry|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20342" CreationDate="2017-05-16T20:23:06.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing: depends on your process and tools. If you do a decoction or multiple step infusion, you'll always take longer than in a single infusion. If your burner is weak, you spend more time heating and boiling. If your wort chiller is good, you spend less time chilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ingredients may require more time, for example, if you use wheat you may want to use a protein rest of 15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermenting: ales at higher temperatures ferment faster than lagers at lower temperatures. If you dry hop in a secondary or add e.g., fruit to a secondary fermenter, that increases the time till bottling or kegging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lagering: some ales like wheat beers or IPAs are good to drink after a few days or weeks, while others beers (strong porters and stouts, lagers) benefit from months of aging. Of course, this is especially true for anything wood aged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T20:23:06.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20313" CreationDate="2017-05-16T20:28:35.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't pay too much attention to the folks saying &quot;extract comes out high due to extra unfermentables&quot;.  In my experience, it's just not true, and even if it was, that's clearly not your problem here, because you say that the wort tastes sweeter than it should (unfermetable sugars don't actually taste very sweet.  If you're getting sweetness, it's because there's fermentable sugars still in there that the yeast just haven't processed for some reason).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Mr_road mentioned, this sounds like a classic stuck fermentation.  This can happen for all kinds of reasons (some of which aren't well understood even by the experts), but substantial temperature changes can definitely make things like this more likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to try to fix this is to get yourself some new, fresh yeast, rehydrate it according to the manufacturer's instructions, then make up a starter to get it nice and active before pitching it into your fermentor.  Note that many instructions for making starters tell you to let it run until the yeast has fully used up all the nutrients (12-24 hours) and falls out of solution, which is good if you're doing an initial pitch, but is not what you want for restarting a stuck brew.  In this case, you want to toss the yeast in when they're at their most active, and you've got lots of bubbles going (usually about 4-8 hours in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with the new yeast, you may also want to add a good wide-spectrum yeast supplement like Fermaid K to make sure both the old and new yeast have all the nutrients they might want to really take off (my local homebrew supplier sells this in individual 8g packets, which are more than enough for a 5 gallon brew, and they keep for a pretty long time, so I always keep one or two around just in case).  When the starter is nice and active, measure out an appropriate amount of the supplement for your batch size, mix it in with the starter, and pitch the whole thing in (Note: don't add the supplement to the beginning of the starter, as this will be way too much for the size of the starter and will create a stressful environment for the yeast.  Mix it in just before you pour the whole thing into the larger batch, so the nutrients will be diluted out the right concentrations in the fermentor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't feel up to making a starter (which isn't that hard, but I know can be a bit intimidating to those who haven't tried it before), you can still do all this without it:  Rehydrate your yeast, and then mix it and the supplement in enough sterilized water to make sure everything's nicely dissolved, and then pitch it directly in.  In this case, you might want to use a double-portion of yeast to give it a bit more of a head start..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15036" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T20:28:35.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20342" CreationDate="2017-05-16T20:48:57.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that there are three primary factors involved in how quickly a beer ferments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gravity&lt;/strong&gt;: beer with more fermentable sugars will take longer for the yeast to consume.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Amount &amp;amp; Type of Yeast&lt;/strong&gt;: the lag time before fermentation starts relates to these factors. The yeast starts fermentation by multiplying until it runs out of resources to do so. So the more yeast that is pitched the quicker it is able to do this and the healthier it will be when it gets there. Different yeast strains also ferment at different rates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature&lt;/strong&gt;: in a higher temperature environment the yeast tends to ferment more quickly. This often leaves behind more byproducts, however, which the yeast may go back to clean up later on if possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the amount of time the beer is left to ferment is somewhat at the discretion of the brewer. Once the beer has reached final gravity a brewer may choose to bottle/keg immediately, though most leave the beer to condition/age for some amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, if looking for quick fermentation, you'd certainly want to stick to ales (higher temperatures). Beyond that, sticking to lighter color beers is probably best as darker beers are generally left to age longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the above reasons, you're looking for a lower-gravity, lighter colored ale.  Session pale ales, session IPAs, and mild ales can all fit into this range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond the details of the beer itself, kegging can cut down the time waiting for carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/aging/item/1397-speed-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this BYO article on speed brewing&lt;/a&gt; covers a lot of this in more detail, including more specific yeast/process recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T20:48:57.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20342" CreationDate="2017-05-16T21:02:04.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about &quot;brew day&quot; time, that's influenced much more by your brewing equipment and process (i.e. do you do all-grain or extract? fly sparge / batch sparge / brew-in-a-bag?).  This typically doesn't change much from one type of beer to another (with a few exceptional cases where a particular style may require an extra step or two that will make it take longer than usual)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about fermentation time, that can depend on a lot of variables, many of which are specific to the beer style:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature:  Generally, the warmer the fermentation, the faster it goes (within reason).  For this reason, ales usually go faster than lagers, since they're intended to ferment at a higher temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gravity of the wort:  The higher your OG, the longer the fermentation will take.  This is both because the environment is more stressful for the yeast, and just because there's a lot more sugar for them to work through before they're done.  Obviously, this means lighter beers will typically ferment faster than big, heavy, highly alcoholic ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strain of yeast:  This is an important one that's often overlooked.  Not all yeasts are created equal, and some will just naturally be more vigorous than others.  This also ties in a bit with temperature, as some yeast strains work better at higher temperatures (and produce fewer off-flavors, etc) so you can &quot;run them a bit hotter&quot; if you need to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxygen and other nutrients: The happier your yeast are, the more they'll reproduce, and the faster the whole process goes.  This is usually more a general &quot;equipment and procedures&quot; issue than a &quot;style of beer&quot; thing, but there are some styles of beer (with a lot of non-malt additions) which may be somewhat deficient in some nutrients, which can cause them to run slower if not otherwise supplemented.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Post-fermentation conditioning:  Many styles of beer require lagering or cold-contitioning after fermentation to get an acceptable level of clarity or to drive off certain off flavors.  Others just take a while in the keg or bottle before all their flavors really &quot;meld&quot; together to really taste their best.  In general, lagers will need some extra time for this, and heavier or more alcoholic beers often require more mellowing time after fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's kinda hard to pin down 2 or 3 specific styles, because often there's a lot of variation depending on the brewer, the location, and other factors which might make different people's results vary, but what I can tell you is based on the above, if you're looking for quicker styles of beer to get a finished product, you're generally going to be looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An ale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the lighter side (i.e. a &quot;session&quot; beer, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using either a highly-flocculating yeast, or a style where cloudiness isn't a big deal (so you don't have to condition it for clarity)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this, wheat beers are probably a good choice (typically lighter ales and they're supposed to be cloudy).  I've also had some nice quick brews when working with some British/Irish style ales, as the esters from higher temperatures are often part of the style, and the yeast strains are often fairly vigorous (I just did an Irish Red that finished fermenting in about 5 days).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BYO actually has an article specifically on this topic as well, with some recipes, which you may want to check out:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/aging/item/1397-speed-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/aging/item/1397-speed-brewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15036" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T21:02:04.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-16T23:44:56.333" Score="4" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;i only have one 10g pack of dried yeast, but want to brew 10 gallons.Can you make a starter with dried  yeast? Is it benificial to the yeast or should I just rehydrate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13910" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T13:14:08.043" Title="Making a dried yeast starter" Tags="|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20357" CreationDate="2017-05-17T02:12:01.803" Score="2" ViewCount="4876" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most-recent episode of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Brewing Radio&lt;/a&gt; has got me thinking about making Kombucha.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a typical OG (original gravity) and FG (final gravity) for a Kombucha?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2018-05-06T22:37:47.353" Title="Specific Gravities for Kombucha" Tags="|specific-gravity|original-gravity|final-gravity|kombucha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20341" CreationDate="2017-05-17T06:55:18.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you want to approach brewing?&#xA;Will you brew all grain right from the beginning or start with extract?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I really like &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/&lt;/a&gt; style profiles, such as for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/grains/item/128-american-blonde-ale-style-profile&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/grains/item/128-american-blonde-ale-style-profile&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;They're a good way to learn about a style and also include recipes for it at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14772" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T06:55:18.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20347" CreationDate="2017-05-17T06:58:26.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, to brew 10 gallons you definitely need to rehydrate but a starter is also more than beneficial, probably necessary. You have too few cells for that amount of beer.&#xA;Can't you buy another pack (two/three more would better)? That'd be the easiest solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14772" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T06:58:26.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20347" CreationDate="2017-05-17T13:14:08.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most dry yeast packs are intended for 5 gallons at 1.040 SG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to basically add a pack for each .020 points above 1.040 SG x volume / 5g&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case I would just grow more yeast with a starter. How big of one depends on: Yeast Package date, wort SG, and volume. All are critical to calc the proper pitch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example you need about 280b cells for 10gallons of 1.040 wort. That's 15grams of dry yeast less than a month old.  Or a 5qt starter from one liquid vial less than a month old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making a starter for cell growth, you want it to ferment completly, cold crash it and decant the starter beer off. Just pitch the biomass &quot;yeast trub&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T13:14:08.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20342" CreationDate="2017-05-17T13:32:04.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your fastest beers will be session strength (5% ABV) ales that do not depend much on yeast esters or brilliant clarity.  Allowing you to full pitch yeast, and no need for a lot of fining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have style you like, and enough yeast they can be done very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fastest turn around was 4 days from brew to serving. A juicy sessions IPA 5 gallons, that was pitched 64oz of yeast.&#xA;Actual fermentation completed in 20 hours. It could have benefited from a diacytl rest but that would have added a couple days had very low levels but detectable. Most of the 4 days was dry hopping and cold crashing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By far the most unnecessary time loss in homebrewing is bottle conditioning. You will never regret upgrading to force carbonation and kegging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-05-17T13:37:25.260" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T13:37:25.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20339" CreationDate="2017-05-17T13:46:48.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That actually look really good. Looks like the moisture is keeping the husk from shredding and you have nice crush on the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm constantly pushing finer and finer for more efficiency. As we all should to know what your system can handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stuck sparge isn't the end of the world. Easily fixed by pumping or flowing wort back through false bottom, then mix in rice hulls and reset the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-05-17T13:52:44.987" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T13:52:44.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20341" CreationDate="2017-05-17T15:42:50.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would laways suggest starting with a bit of reading around the subject first: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobrew.com/&lt;/a&gt; it will help you decide the direction you wish to go in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of great sites out there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipes/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes?page=1&amp;amp;sort=rank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes?page=1&amp;amp;sort=rank&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home brewers association has a set of basic recipes to get you going:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/beginner/basic-homebrew-recipes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/beginner/basic-homebrew-recipes/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a number of good, starter articles with recipes contained within:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mensjournal.com/expert-advice/5-easy-homebrew-recipes-guaranteed-to-impress-20150303/smash-pale-ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.mensjournal.com/expert-advice/5-easy-homebrew-recipes-guaranteed-to-impress-20150303/smash-pale-ale&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://drinks.seriouseats.com/2013/02/best-homebrewing-recipes-how-to-brew-your-own-beer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://drinks.seriouseats.com/2013/02/best-homebrewing-recipes-how-to-brew-your-own-beer.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T15:42:50.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20341" CreationDate="2017-05-17T15:52:36.153" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the science and techniques of brewing is exactly the same for beginners as they are for somebody who has been brewing for years, are you asking for recipes for malt extract (known as extract brewing - viewed by some as easier) or whole grains (known as all-grain brewing - not any harder, just more time consuming and higher entry investment).  Could you get a can of pre-hopped extract (in the US, this is generally Mr. Beer) and make beer?  Sure.  Would it be good and would you learn anything? No and probably not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I would do... go to your friendly local brew shop to buy your equipment and pick up a kit.  Why would I recommend a kit if you don't want a kit? Because they have a set of very clear, easy to follow instructions that even the best recipes online don't have and, in many cases, they are actually a little less expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastEditorUserId="8248" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T17:41:51.610" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T17:41:51.610" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20349" CreationDate="2017-05-17T16:37:53.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suggested OGs are around 1020-1030 from a number of forums, but people are making big 1090 OGs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding FG I recall they end quiet dry as there is often only simple sugars and very little tri-saccharides or longer polysaccharides. so I would expect around 997-1004. What little I can find on the google seems to agree, I have a book at home I will dig it out this evening and see if it sheds more light on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: As noted below, you cannot use the OG-FG to calculate Alcohol for Kombucha as it is then further transformed into acetic acid but the acetobacteria in the SCOBY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-05-19T08:29:57.303" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T08:29:57.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20265" CreationDate="2017-05-19T00:25:52.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a self-contained electric solution (which it sounds like you are), you may also want to look at the &quot;counter electric dispenser&quot; type setup also mentioned on the page that Glasseyed linked to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, however, that this problem is actually a lot more complicated than it first seems, and likely has no &quot;silver bullet&quot; answer.  The problem is that carbonation of beer is a tricky thing (a lot more so than for soda), and just getting it cold before it gets to the glass isn't necessarily good enough.  As beer gets warmer, its capacity to hold CO2 decreases.  This means that if your keg is not at the correct temperature, it will not have the right amount of carbonation.  When you reduce the temperature, it increases the capacity for carbonation, but this isn't an instant process (it can take several days for carbonation levels to equalize inside a keg when force-carbonating it, for example).  The end result is that even if you manage to chill it to the perfect temperature just before serving, you'll be serving perfectly-chilled &lt;em&gt;flat&lt;/em&gt; beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you might be able to compensate for this somewhat by keeping the kegs at a higher pressure, which will get the right keg carbonation level at the warmer temperature.  The problem with this is then that you'll be dispensing with an unusually high CO2 pressure, which means the CO2 will come out of solution faster when it gets to an ambient-pressure environment (open air), which means foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd also need longer beer lines to account for the extra pressure so that the beer doesn't come out of the tap too fast (again, foam).  Also, the longer the distance between the keg and the chiller, the less the effective pressure will be when your beer reaches the correct temperature, which means it may well already have lost some of its carbonation in the line and not have enough effective pressure to push more in even once it's cold enough to want to take it.  Therefore, you probably want to mount your chiller as close to the keg as possible, up the keg pressure somewhat more than normal, and have long dispensing lines after the chiller (which is probably going to be an interesting balancing act), but this also means you've got a lot more cold beer in the lines that needs to be kept cold until it gets to the tap, so insulation/cooling of the long tap lines is critical as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you manage to get all of that right, I suspect you may well end up with a setup where the carbonation level keeps changing depending on things like how frequently you're pouring from any particular keg, and may just end up varying back and forth between cold foam and cold flat beer..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'd love to be proven wrong, though, so if you do find a solution that works, please do share!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15036" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T00:25:52.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20341" CreationDate="2017-05-19T14:32:13.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually order ingredients and kits from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Northern Brewer.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;I know exactly what you're asking as I am new to brewing too. When I first started brewing about a year ago I was looking for exactly the same thing as you. What I found to be the case was exactly what CharlieHorse was saying. Why would I want to order my own ingredients when the science is exactly the same? I already knew what was happening scientifically. What I didn't know was how to &lt;em&gt;actually brew beer&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; Start with the kits. Use the included instructions.  As you brew more and start to get a better &quot;rhythm&quot; on brew/packaging days, add a little more complexity to each brew, like adding another specialty grain or changing the hop bill/schedule or using a different yeast. Simply put, kits are &lt;em&gt;the best&lt;/em&gt; way to start brewing, in my opinion. The included instructions allow you to focus on the brewing process and prevent dumb mistakes in the procedure that can ruin a batch of beer. On my third brew I became less dependent on the kit instructions (a good thing) and ended up pitching yeast to 190F wort (a bad thing)... those poor yeasties. Of course, I realized immediately what I had done, and the beer ended up fine after repitching later.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Get yourself a few extract kits. From what I understand, some veteran brewers still them occasionally due to time constraints and their simplicity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14436" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T14:32:13.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20342" CreationDate="2017-05-19T14:47:34.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you have the ability to brew, cool, and pitch the yeast all in the same day, you can be drinking your beer in a little as a week if you are kegging and force carbonating. Add two weeks for the same beer if bottling. All of the other posts are true, but in a nutshell, low gravity ales with low alcohol, and fast working yeast. Think low alcohol IPA's, blondes, wheats.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The reason why is mostly due to the recipe  and the yeast. Beers with more gravity (fermentable sugars) just give the yeast more work to do. More sugar means more food for the yeast to eat which takes longer. Also, beers with more gravity and alcohol (think a barley wine) need time to &quot;mellow&quot;. If you were to drink these too soon, the alcohol would be &quot;hot&quot;, like a cheap whisky compared to a nice smooth whisky.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Some beers with yeast that like higher temps will ferment faster like some Belgian ales. But that doesn't men you can just throw in a high temp yeast into any ale or you could get some weird beer. Use a yeast relevant to the style of ale you are making. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14436" LastEditorUserId="14436" LastEditDate="2017-05-19T15:06:37.890" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T15:06:37.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20366" CreationDate="2017-05-21T13:02:09.983" Score="7" ViewCount="769" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything I've read says absolutely do not drink the last quarter inch of a homebrew because it will be terrible. But most hefeweizens instruct you to swirl the last of the bottle before pouring it in. Do I swirl or not? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14947" LastActivityDate="2017-05-22T00:21:43.073" Title="Do or don't drink the dregs of a hefeweizen?" Tags="|hefeweizen|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20342" CreationDate="2017-05-21T13:28:46.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like others have said, most beers will take approximately the same amount of time if they have the same ABV. If you brew at a higher temperature, it will go even faster. The next step is conditioning. You can skip this step, but pretty much every one agrees you really shouldn't. A lot happens in this stage that positively affects the taste of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In general&lt;/strong&gt; the longer the primary fermentation takes, the longer you should condition. There's a whole chapter about this on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to brew&lt;/a&gt;. So in short, most beers will take about the same amount of time before you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; drink it, but they can very in time before you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; drink them. As for actual styles? IPAs and wheat ales are your best bet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14947" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T13:28:46.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20364" CreationDate="2017-05-21T13:59:06.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's because hefeweizens are by style intended to be a cloudy beer. Rolling the bottle, or swirling the last of the pour is common. The yeast is part of the flavor profile too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many styles are like this especially if they have adjucts that can settle out in bottle storage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With bottle conditioned homebrew generally the dregs are yeast from the carbonation phase. If it's intended as a clear beer style then it's best to leave the dregs in the bottle. Drinking it won't hurt you, but may throw a beer out of style if poured wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T13:59:06.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20342" CreationDate="2017-05-21T15:30:54.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll offer up a less technical answer. Brew an English Mild/Bitter. Ferment with Danstar Nottingham (this stuff is fast). Ferment in the mid 60's and the beer will be done fermenting in roughly 24-36 hours. Chill for 24 - 36 hours to drop as much stuff as possible then rack to keg and force carbonate. That's about 3 days. Beer - actually pretty darn good for 3 days. This works well as a cask offering too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better- plan your production schedule appropriately, don't get into rushing everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T15:30:54.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20364" CreationDate="2017-05-21T16:45:50.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drink it or don't drink it, because it all depends on your beer palate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It realy depends on the beer itself. Homebrew could taste like chalk, but it really depends on how it is brewed and if the sediments have dropped to the bottom. This depends on the heat at the time of brewing and how it is stored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pour most of the beer into the glass at a 45 degree angle, swirl the last ounce or so around to collect any yeast or other sediment, dump it in the glass and drink it all together. I like the head(foam) of all wheat beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also rolled the beer on the table before opening it. This allows all of the sediment to float around the bottle. I tilt my cold beer glass about a 45 degree angle and pour the beer slow. Leaving a nice head(foam).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15048" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T16:45:50.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20364" CreationDate="2017-05-22T00:21:43.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swirl it around and drink it. It will taste fine, unless your home brew itself tastes terrible. I do it all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12524" LastActivityDate="2017-05-22T00:21:43.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20371" CreationDate="2017-05-22T11:00:00.783" Score="8" ViewCount="1172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on doing some veggie brews and would be interested to know what the gelatinisation temps are for potato, sweet potato, carrot, parsnip, beetroot, etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T10:41:40.243" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T10:45:33.250" Title="What are the gelatinisation temps for vegetable starches?" Tags="|mashing|alternatives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20370" CreationDate="2017-05-22T17:22:50.677" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://people.oregonstate.edu/~calverta/learn/starch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; from Oregon State shows some of the science behind gelatinization and mentions that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Starch begins to gelatinize between 60 and 70C, the exact temperature dependent is the specific starch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it also mentions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At some point between 60-95C we would likely have gelatinization occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In some instances, when heated to 90C the starch granule could reach optimum gelatinization and be a nice swollen granule sack. In other cases, this may allow the sack to &quot;implode&quot; and loose their contents as there is not enough structure and hydrogen bonding to hold the polymers together. It is interesting that overcooking, as with overstirring, will decrease the starch paste colloidal sol viscosity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take this to mean that somewhere between 60°C and 90°C you should see most starches gelatinize, though 60°C to 70°C should work in most cases/with sufficient time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/bock/item/323-brewing-with-potatoes-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this BYO article&lt;/a&gt; on brewing with potatoes mentions the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The starch in potatoes is arranged in larger granules than those found in most plants, including barley. Potato starch is about 20% amylose and 80% amylopectin. In comparison, barley starch is 20–25% amylose and 75–80% amylopectin. Potato starch gelatinizes at relatively low temperatures, around 130 °F (54 °C) for most mealy varieties. As such, the starch is accessible to the saccharification enzymes at typical mash temperatures — 148–158 °F (64–70 °C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I recall reading in the past, the same process works for other (root) vegetables, as implied later in the BYO with sweet potatoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewsite.com/apocalypse-beer-ferment-anything/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page on post-apocalyptic brewing&lt;/a&gt;, for what it's worth, suggests a three-step process for producing a sweet-potato beer: gelatinizing at 140°F (60°C) for 60-90 minutes, boiling for 30 minutes, then performing a standard saccharification rest for 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find any detailed resources on using carrots, parsnips, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1454707852&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Homebrew Beyond the Basics&lt;/a&gt;, while it has a nice table of gelatinization points for various grains, in the section with the heading &quot;Potato, Carrot, and Other Root vegetables&quot; it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The use of vegetables in beer is still largely uncharted territory.  Other than the ubiquitous pumpkin beer or the rare sweet-potato beer, few veggies have been utilized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, earlier in the section on cereal mashing it mentions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There's no harm in boiling a starch to ensure complete gelatinization, so when in doubt go for a higher temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So boiling for 30 minutes may be a good default until better information comes along for each vegetable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final side-note, the book also recommends roasting most vegetables so they develop a caramelized flavor.  For pumpkins it recommends 90+ minutes at 350°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-11-13T17:42:01.897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T17:42:01.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20341" CreationDate="2017-05-23T19:20:24.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most valuable books I have is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381926&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewing Classic Styles&lt;/a&gt;. There's a recipe for 80 2008 BJCP styles, each with extract and all grain and an introduction by John Palmer that's a mini how-to by itself. It's a great starting point and probably the second or third book in most brewers' libraries (starting with &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381888&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt; and Charlie Papazian's &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0060531053&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Complete Joy of Homebrewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Mr_road mentions, how to brew is a website, but otherwise these are books :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T19:20:24.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2017-05-23T21:39:43.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going with two different alternatives, it really depends on how much time I want to spend on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: design label and then print it on normal A4, cut out and then apply with glue stick. It takes a lot of time to attach, but the label and glue is really easy to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: Different coloured caps for different batches, and then I keep track on what color for what batch in a spreadsheet together with recipe, and brewing notes for that batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15016" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T21:39:43.637" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2017-05-23T21:39:43.637" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20349" CreationDate="2017-05-24T15:24:15.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recipe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 cup sugar (5.7 oz)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 liters water (1.58 gal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/4 cup loose black tea&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never measured the OG or the FG, but the recipe calculates to &lt;strong&gt;OG 1.014&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why I've &lt;strong&gt;never measured the FG is because I just tasted it every so often&lt;/strong&gt;, and pull it off the SCOBY when it tastes right to me. There is no reason to having booch that's too sweet or too sour; when you're making it yourself, just taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tasting is simple for me.  I went and got a &lt;strong&gt;2 gallon frosting bucket&lt;/strong&gt; at the grocery store, put a tap on it, and &lt;em&gt;voilà&lt;/em&gt;, I had a kombucha machine!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0D9G9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0D9G9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My kombucha fermenter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2017-05-24T15:24:15.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12386" CreationDate="2017-05-25T09:08:44.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old question, but yes, altitude definitely does have an effect on carbonation, both actual and perceived. I have a home brewing shop in South Africa, with customers living at altitudes varying from sea level to about 8,000 feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, at altitude the amount of residual CO2 in the beer under ambient pressure as a result of fermentation is lower, so you have a different amount of residual CO2 to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the fizziness of the beer when you pour and drink it is a factor of the vigor with which the CO2 comes out of solution, and at altitude this is much higher, causing beers with the same volume of CO2 to be more fizzy and foamy at altitude than at sea level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The absolute amount of CO2 produced from a certain amount of priming sugar, on the other hand, is the same both at altitude and at sea level. It's just the effect that this similar amount of CO2 has that is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T09:08:44.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20426" CreationDate="2017-05-25T09:13:36.807" Score="3" ViewCount="649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a graph or table (preferably in metric values) that shows the amount of residual carbonation after fermentation under ambient pressure as a function of atmospheric pressure and/or altitude under constant temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've googled extensively but all I've been able to find are graphs and tables that show residual CO2 as a function of temperature under constant pressure (usually 1 atmosphere).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone point me into the right direction? Tnx!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T14:00:05.300" Title="Residual CO2 from fermentation as a function of altitude" Tags="|carbonation|pressure|residual|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20321" CreationDate="2017-05-25T11:44:11.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The above answers are all quite correct. One additional comment, though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All things being equal, the yeast generally tends to produce esters during the earlier stages of fermentation, while the re-uptake of these esters tends to occur during the later stages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore your finished beer will have higher levels of esters if the fermentation starts at a higher temperature (more ester production) and completes at a lower temperature (less ester re-uptake) and lower levels of esters if the fermentation starts cool and finishes warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T11:44:11.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20376" CreationDate="2017-05-25T13:26:38.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's some resources on some carbonation basics. I too have not seen a chart made for residual cO2 but would be a great tool if someone made it. However most of it has been done by force carbonation charts just need to account for the atmophere pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/support-files/kegcarbonationchart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.winning-homebrew.com/support-files/kegcarbonationchart.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmospheric_pressure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmospheric_pressure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.draughtquality.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Carbonation_PH-Final_1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.draughtquality.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Carbonation_PH-Final_1.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&quot;Add 1 PSI for each 2,000 in feet elevation&quot;  for force carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The residual cO2 in beer from fermentation is associated to elevation.  As it retains the cO2 volumes not allowed to escape by atmospheric pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some real advantages to knowing this is because cO2 is toxic to yeast. Yeast in theory would have an easier time at higher altitudes. Though may have a harder time during aerobic stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also beer kegged at low altidude then poured at high altitude will have more of perceived cO2 volumes. Even though the volumes are the same kegged at high or low because of the closed system. With proper force carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The 1 PSI boost needed per 2k feet is only to adjust for accurate reading of the pressure gauge.&lt;/strong&gt; Not because it takes more cO2 at higher altitude to achieve x volumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit / update&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/residual-co2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://beerandwinejournal.com/residual-co2/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I believe force carb charts already consider residual cO2.  So by comparing the two sets of data we can calc what you need. &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Beer at 50F 1 ATM has 1.15 cO2 volumes&lt;/strong&gt; and needs 11.3 psi at 1 ATM (sea level) for 2.0 cO2 volumes. We see that it takes 12.5 psi to get 2.1 volumes (1.2 psi increase to get +0.1 volumes). &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;So without doing the exact math the residual c02 at say 2400 feet would be 1.25 for 50F beer.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Now the base formulas are more complex but this should be a good start for someone to make a graph or calculator.&#xA;Keep in mind that the residual co2 will be based on the highest temp a beer has ever reached after fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-05-26T13:21:59.473" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T13:21:59.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18487" CreationDate="2017-05-25T15:55:41.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a stuck fermentation,  EC-1118 is your friend.  Like Brewchez suggested, get that stuff roaring, then toss it in.  EC-1118 will chew through damn near &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; and will do it in a big damn hurry, too.  What you're left with will be dry and subtle flavors might not be as present as they'd be with a less vigorous fermentation, but it'll work, which is more than can be said about some of the other yeast strains that are usually great for cysers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="15058" LastEditDate="2017-05-26T18:08:01.037" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T18:08:01.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18315" CreationDate="2017-05-25T16:07:31.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best.  Go to your local homebrew store and ask them if they have something—either in stock or orderable—that'll fill your requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple solutions notwithstanding, a 12 oz. beer bottle will most likely be able to handle the pressure and be the proper amber color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T16:07:31.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-26T05:53:14.170" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using buckets, taps and hoses so far but want to start using carboys so I need a siphon.&#xA;Since there are several types around, what do you suggest?&#xA;I've heard that automatic ones are a bit tougher to clean, what's your experience with them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd buy it here (posting the link so you can see what I can choose from): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brouwland.com/en/our-products/bottling/siphons-and-accessories/complete-siphons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brouwland.com/en/our-products/bottling/siphons-and-accessories/complete-siphons&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14772" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T13:14:41.063" Title="New siphon advice" Tags="|bottling|siphon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20381" CreationDate="2017-05-26T13:14:41.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like this one.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/sterile-siphon-starter-3-5-6-65-gallon-carboy-smooth-necks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.morebeer.com/products/sterile-siphon-starter-3-5-6-65-gallon-carboy-smooth-necks.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the design simular to the one you linked, you can use very low co2 pressure to push the beer. This gives the added ability over pump type siphons to completely eliminate oxygen contact with your beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is very useful for purging a secondary of oxygen. Fill with sanitizer and siphon using co2 results in a secondary filled with co2 and not air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T13:14:41.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2017-05-26T16:26:25.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how much this will help, but in my limited experience with sugars, plain table sugar (sucrose) just made my fermenting time a bit longer as compared to corn sugar (dextrose). As far as taste changes, very minimal in my experience with the more refined sugars. Now less refined sugars (light/dark brown sugars, honey, molasses, etc.) will definitely impart slightly more of a taste. However fermentation temperature variation, yeast variation (including yeast mutation), did factor &lt;strong&gt;significantly&lt;/strong&gt; in flavor profile. I have always used what sugar was most easily available and did not worry - I do agree 100%  with the other comments that the most noticeable effect is how quickly different types of sugars dissolve in solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15063" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T16:26:25.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6971" CreationDate="2017-05-26T17:21:45.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally love EC-1118 and use it for ale, mead and wine. It is a good yeast in my opinion for any beginner desiring a high ABV brew as it is very forgiving and will ferment out rather dry if you can wait long enough. I even experimented with increasingly larger additions of sugar before noticing any noticeable sweetness (2X over recipe). I have never had it get stuck like some yeast strains do and so far for me has tolerated fairly wide temperature ranges on my ferments. I tend to re-use it batch-to-batch and will admit I have never had the same flavor twice. Some might find this not to their liking but I enjoy the subtle taste variations. I must caution that EC-1118 is capable of producing rather high levels of alcohol and most of my brews have the potential to quickly horizontal a person if overdone - just ask my wife!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15063" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T17:21:45.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20386" CreationDate="2017-05-28T01:44:45.837" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to start regulating the temperature of my beers and meads during fermentation, and have been looking at kits like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281710787369&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mangrove Jack's Temperature Controller&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, judging by the description it can only be used either in heating or cooling mode not both at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm doing my brewing in a garage, which can get quite cold at night (5 degrees) but also quite hot during the day (35 degrees) as the garage door is exposed to direct sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I (cheaply) keep my fermenter at a steady temperature under these conditions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15068" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T18:13:19.630" Title="Hot and cold temperature regulation" Tags="|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20385" CreationDate="2017-05-28T05:36:00.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I kept looking and came across devices like this one which permits the use of both the heating and cooling plugs at the same time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2015/12/hands-on-review-inkbird-itc-308-dual-stage-temperature-controller.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inkbird ITC-308&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15068" LastActivityDate="2017-05-28T05:36:00.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-28T14:56:07.007" Score="2" ViewCount="854" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at a packet of &quot;pilsner enzyme&quot; (an amylase). I know what it does (chops up starch/maltodextrins to simpler sugars, I think...) but I wondered why it is called &quot;Pilsner enzyme&quot;? Why would one want to add Pilsner enzyme to Pilsner type beers (or any other beer)? And how did the production of pilsner enzyme come about in the brewing industry? Refined Amylase in packets is a relatively modern invention, so how and why was it brought into use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2017-05-28T22:04:55.320" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T06:07:48.953" Title="Lager than life pilsner" Tags="|pilsner|amylase-enzymes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20342" CreationDate="2017-05-28T15:04:49.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Ginger beer count? Than can be as ready as it ever will be after 2 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;detail update:&#xA;Inoculate made up solution of a small amount of ginger powder and sugar and bottle. Ready in two days. This is &quot;real ginger beer&quot; that uses a SCOBY based on Lactobacillus and Saccharomyces - not the yeast based variety. There is little alcohol produced and the gas carbonates the drink. The flavour is a tart/ginger lemonade. Very refreshing and a useful probiotic for digestive issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-06-02T06:34:10.577" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T06:34:10.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20314" CreationDate="2017-05-28T15:30:07.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only use glucose/dextrose/brewing sugar for priming - ie carbonating beer. I have never had any problems or off tastes. In theory sucrose (table sugar) should be as good but some have reported a &quot;tangy taste&quot; when using sucrose but that is usually lost when using invert sugar or golden syrup. . However as the amount used is relatively small I would not suppose that any real flavour issues were introduced &lt;em&gt;per se&lt;/em&gt; by such sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-05-28T15:30:07.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20387" CreationDate="2017-05-28T21:16:42.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Pilsner enzyme&quot; is different from other brewing or distilling enzyme. It's not derived from malt and is a exogenous enzyme. It can do the same job as malt enzymes but at lower temps and different pH. Allowing it to be added to the wort at fermentation to break down sugars the yeast can't use so they can use them resulting in a dryer beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is no need for this product in brewing unless the mash has gone wrong&lt;/strong&gt; and denatured your target enzymes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be useful when using LME / DME since these products are usually made from wort designed to have a set amount of residual unfermentables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't something &quot;new&quot;. Many ancient processes would use &lt;strong&gt;saliva&lt;/strong&gt; during a &quot;cool&quot; mash to break down sugars. The process would have the village women sitting around a large pot mixing and spitting in it for several hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amylase powder:&#xA;This is simply amylase enzyme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's mostly used in mashes that need more diastatic power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most brewers will use 6-row in the mash to boost diastatic power instead of adding enzyme powder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-05-29T14:50:00.187" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T14:50:00.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20393" CreationDate="2017-05-29T13:55:14.313" Score="2" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of Flanders Red that has undergone a Pedio Fermentation and of course produced a bunch of diacetyl. This was done with the Wyeast Roeselare Ale Blend and then Barrel aged, then racked to carboy, its been in Carboy for a few years now. Ideally I would like to get rid of most of the diacetyl if possible. Suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking rack it on to some pitted cherries and add more Brett. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T05:03:08.617" Title="How can I deal with the diacetyl produced by pedio in a flanders red" Tags="|sour|brettanomyces|pediococcus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20387" CreationDate="2017-05-29T14:28:31.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose that outside of the US, Pilsner and/or lager malt is the one with the most diastatic power. Here in Europe, 6-row is not malted for the brewing industry, it is only used for cattle food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: just to make it more clear, I suppose that it is called Pilsner enzyme, because it is used as a replacement for Pilsner malt, in cases one needs or wants to mash without malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T06:07:48.953" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T06:07:48.953" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20391" CreationDate="2017-05-29T15:22:38.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's best to catch diacetyl early and do a diacetyl (increase temp 68-72F) rest before racking off the yeast. Usually the diacetyl from bacteria is cleaned up by true brett, not so much by faux brett.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to trick yeast into cleaning this up by racking this onto the trub if a fresh beer and getting it warm. Or by growing a full pitch of healthy yeast that's prepared for the immediate contact with your ABV. In either case you want yeast to be past the growth phase and need for oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would fine the beer as much as possible before the repitch removing as much of the Brett as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-05-29T15:50:20.677" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T15:50:20.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2017-05-30T06:19:43.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that one should rinse after Star San usage although the manufacturer claims the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine the ingredients of a commercial chemical mixture like Star San, one can look in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brouwland.com/content/assets/docs/Star_San_HB_SDS_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;material safety data sheet&lt;/a&gt;. The active ingredients are phosphoric acid, dodecyl benzene sulfonic acid and a &quot;proprietary&quot; compound. Little amounts of phosphoric acid (as described in other answers) are safe even if they are in the beer. However, dodecyl benzene sulfonic acid is problematic: it's a surfactant and even little traces of these substances make beer foam unstable. Therefore, I don't use dishwashing liquid or Star San for cleaning or sanitizing brewing equipment. As replacement, I'm using iodine solution and rinse with tap water. Tap water should be nearly free of germs if the pipes and the faucet aerator are clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Star San contains this &quot;proprietary&quot; compound. Without a specification of this compound, I'm unable to determine if Star San is save to use for beer brewing without rinsing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think using disinfectants like Star San without rinsing for commercial brewing is illegal in some countries like Germany. In DIN 10516 standard it's written that removing of the cleaning or disinfection agents is mandatory except if the substances are harmless and permitted food analogs or additives. As far as I know, dodecyl benzene sulfonic acid and probably the &quot;proprietary&quot; compound are not permitted as food analogs or additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13959" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T06:19:43.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20396" CreationDate="2017-05-30T09:00:48.547" Score="0" ViewCount="3246" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you know when a beer is done fermentation and how long does it take before bottling it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15072" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T17:25:43.600" Title="What are the stages of Fermentation?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20395" CreationDate="2017-05-30T09:34:48.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various answers to this question depending on how technical one wants to be. The usual and &quot;technically correct&quot; answer is that the brew has finished fermenting when the specific gravity (SG) of the brew remains unchanged over a few days. However there are also things like &quot;stuck fermentations&quot; or weirdly acting yeasts that can be an exception to this rule. Bretannomyces fermentation can take much longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most brewers don't get that specific. They leave the brew to ferment for (say) 10 days to 2 weeks and then check the SG is near to that desired and then (usually) prime and bottle the brew. My personal philosophy is that slightly longer fermentation is better than the quicker option. So bottling anything before 14 days is rarely worth it (unless it is real ginger beer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However once in the bottle/keg/cask/whatever is is a very good idea to wait at least another 2 weeks before sampling the brew. My personal preference is to bottle condition the brew for at least 2 months. I have many bottles that have been conditioned over 6 months and a few crates that are over a year old. The beer, in the main, just gets better. Lager for instance is often/usually &quot;lagered&quot; (hence the name) for 3 months or so in a cool place before consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T09:34:48.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20411" CreationDate="2017-05-30T09:43:56.690" Score="2" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello am all new in this industry, i just bought the brewing kit ,your help will be much appreciated.what are the first steps you take when brewing a beer &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15072" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T16:48:32.797" Title="Steps to take as a first timer brewery" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20385" CreationDate="2017-05-30T10:00:20.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;STC-1000 is a very common temp controller. It does require that you do the wiring, but that is fairly simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works great as a temp controller for fermentation, however, you do need to check the amps if you use it in an electric brewery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T10:00:20.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20385" CreationDate="2017-05-30T10:43:40.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get away with &quot;one-way&quot; control by putting your fermentor in a fridge and controlling a heater.  I wrap my fermentor with a heating device then insulate it well with several towels and bungee cords.  The whole thing goes in the fridge which is just set to stay cold (40F).  The heater kicks in when the fermentor needs it.  Works well and is less taxing in the fridge compressor than trying to control the fridge in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T10:43:40.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-30T11:37:26.537" Score="3" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;We bought a hard root beer kit--we are new to this--a friend says not to boil, the kit has boiling instructions.  Is it necessary to boil to make beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T12:35:21.437" Title="Should the wort be boiled?" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20397" CreationDate="2017-05-30T12:18:16.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully the brewing kit will contain some instructions but as the details of brewing can vary from one type of beer to another - it might be a good idea to provide more detail on the type of kit. I presume it is a pre-hopped &quot;can kit&quot; with some yeast that requires more sugar and water to be added. Or it could be an all grain kit or a dried extract kit with loose hops. Each can have its foibles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea to to use a clean fermenting bin (usually 25Lt/5gal) and make sure it is clean and as sterile has is sensible. Rinsing it with boiling water is often a good start although some will stress it should be sterilised with an appropriate agent. Once a clean fermenter is obtained the process can begin. Boil a kettle of water and add it to the bucket. Add the malt extract into the very hot water (helps dissolve and pasteurise). Boil another kettle and use it to wash the can and to dissolve any additional sugar. Once all the ingredients are in the fermenting bin, dilute to the required volume and temperature (18C is usually good). When that is done add the yeast by sprinkling on top. leave for 14 days or so. After that time, I tend to transfer the beer into another bin to leave the settled yeast behind and to add priming sugar. As a guide, add about 130g or so to 24 ltrs of beer. Once primed with the sugar, the beer can be bottled. Leave the beer to condition and carbonate for (at least) 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the kit has loose/leaf/pellet hops then boil the hops in (say) 3 litres of water for an hour (or whatever time and additions are given with the kit) then strain the hop tea into the fermenting bin and proceed as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is often advisable to make sure the yeast supplied is actually active. To do so make up a starter culture by using a suitable larger bottle or jar. Sterilise it filling with boiling water for a minute or two. Drain and add a table spoon of sugar (or glucose/dextrose) dissolve in a minimum quantity of boiling water. When dissolved dilute (carefully!) with cold water to bring the sugar solution to hand temperature (&quot;baby milk warm&quot;). Add the yeast and shake and put the cap loosely on. Shake again vigorously after 5 minutes and let it stand with the top loosely covered. if the yeast is active then foam and bubbles will appear on the surface after (say) 30 mins and the solution will look &quot;milky&quot;. If nothing happens after a few hours then discard and get more newer/active yeast. If all looks good pour the yeast into the brew an give it a stir. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brew bin should be covered but have a means for the CO2 gas to escape. That can be a bubble trap or similar vent or it can be as simple as leaving the brew bin lid slightly unclipped (but not &quot;open) .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the brew is complete it is useful to have a siphon tube with a tap (and usually some sort of bin clip to hold the tube) so that beer can be transferred or the bottles can be easily filled. When starting to brew it is useful to collect 50 500ml PET plastic &quot;fizzy drinks&quot; bottles - or 25 litres bottles. The sort of bottles that fizzy water and lemonade are sold in. These are cheap and strong and don't break when dropped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T12:18:16.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20400" CreationDate="2017-05-30T13:20:43.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Follow the instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all adjuncts are suitable for &quot;no boil&quot; brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjuncts could have microbes that may be dormant without oxygen and need the boil to kill them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the recipe may need some boil off to get the OG right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T13:20:43.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20397" CreationDate="2017-05-30T18:06:23.570" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get yourself a decent homebrewing book. John Palmer's book &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt;&quot; is a great starting place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch some youtube videos on homebrewing. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qCW-SVPCw4Y&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This one&lt;/a&gt; has a million views. (You guys are lucky, when I started we didn't have youtube.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Join a homebrew club and watch someone brew some beer. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Homebrewers Association&lt;/a&gt; (AHA) has a ton of information available to newbies...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T18:06:23.570" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20385" CreationDate="2017-05-30T18:13:19.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same issue in my garage. The days have been going up to 35, so in the morning I have soaked a towel with cold tap water and wrapped it around the carboy.  This surprisingly keeps it to between 20 and 22 Celcius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At Night, I bought 2 of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://hopdawgs.ca/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;product_id=243&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heat belts&lt;/a&gt; (1 for each carboy) and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/Anycontrol-AC-211-Stage-Temperature-Controller/dp/B00R66K1QE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dual stage temperature controller&lt;/a&gt; for night time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be getting a chest freezer soon and setting up my temp controller with it similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=231979&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this build&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14231" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T18:13:19.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20400" CreationDate="2017-05-31T12:35:21.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time wort is boiled. It sanitizes the beer, creates reactions that affects the flavour and helps with hop isomerization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are exceptions, but there aren't many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather follow the instructions. We can only assume that the company that made the product wishes you to have the best possible product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T12:35:21.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-01T23:39:01.990" Score="5" ViewCount="3918" Body="&lt;p&gt;using a home brew kit I followed all the initial instructions implicitly, got to the final stage of adding the dried yeast and stirred it in. 4 hours later I realised I had failed to add the sugar which I then did. &#xA;Question1: Was I too late and should I discard it all? &#xA;Question2: Even adding the sugar &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt; after the yeast does it have a detrimental effect on the brewing process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15086" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T11:42:25.603" Title="Adding sugar late - a problem?" Tags="|sugar|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20406" CreationDate="2017-06-02T06:46:14.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding sugar 4 hours after adding the yeast to a made up beer kit wort will not necessarily ruin the beer - I would even say it most probably would not ruin the beer. The odds are that the beer will turn out well so I would not recommend discarding it. In fact many &quot;not so good&quot; beers will improve immensely over 6 months conditioning in a bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real problems with adding sugar directly into a beer wort is making it dissolve fully and a small possibility that the dry sugar is carrying some spoiling agent (bacteria). That too need not be fatal and I would not reject the batch just because of this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice in all such circumstances is to finish the brewing process, bottle (or keg) the beer, condition it for some time and see how it turns out. Sometimes beers made &quot;perfectly&quot; are not that impressive and some made &quot;badly&quot; turn out to be the best ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T06:46:14.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20406" CreationDate="2017-06-02T11:18:15.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its perfectly fine to boil the sugar up in some water now and add it.  Many people do just that for certain bigger beers.  As long as the yeast are chugging away when you add the sugar all should be well.  I would try not to exceed an additional volume of a quart or so.  Boil the sugar in two cups if possible.  The boiling will sanitize the solution and also drive out much of the oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T11:18:15.660" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20406" CreationDate="2017-06-02T13:45:45.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Q1: Maybe. Usually no. But in this case infection may have been introduced. Only time will tell. &lt;strong&gt;Let it ferment and see how it turns out.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2: Adding the sugar 4 hours after a pitch usually has little effect on the yeast. But &lt;strong&gt;if the addition wasn't sanitary it could introduce another microbe that could become dominate.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding adjucts that soon after a pitch needs to be sanitary (boiled then cooled) since there's no alcohol in the wort yet to inhibit bad microbes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T13:45:45.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20397" CreationDate="2017-06-02T16:48:32.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a kit at least once, maybe even as many as three times or longer if you're happy just using kits. Getting used to the process and how things should look at each step of the way is crucial, and it's very easy to mess up and not realize it if you don't know what to watch out for. I made my second batch ever on my own and, not knowing how to use a hydrometer correctly or do the math for hops, I accidentally put in almost twice the amount of malt extract and 3 times the amount of hops that I should have. It literally turned black. All of this could have been avoided had I just done one or two more kits and tested my hydrometer on them, or realized that almost 4 oz of hops in one gallon of beer was a bit much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also reading is very important. You're (probably) not going to figure everything out on your own, so read anything and everything you can! &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;John Palmer's How to brew&lt;/a&gt; is a wonderful resource that can take you from your first batch ever to all grain with pictures. And if you read it online it's free!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14947" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T16:48:32.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20395" CreationDate="2017-06-02T17:25:43.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three main stages of fermentation: &lt;strong&gt;Primary&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Secondary&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Lagering&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Primary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Primary fermentation is actually two stages in itself. During the first stage, the yeast performs aerobic respiration, and undergoes a series of changes to &lt;em&gt;adapt&lt;/em&gt; to its new environment, hence the name &lt;em&gt;Adaptive Phase&lt;/em&gt;. During this stage the main byproducts of respiration are CO2 and water, and the yeast cells develop membranes which are permeable to the sugars and nutrients in your beer. This stage lasts only a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step of primary fermentation is known as the &lt;em&gt;Attenuative Phase.&lt;/em&gt; This stage is marked by the growth of a large head of foam at the top of your fermentation vessel known as &lt;em&gt;krausen.&lt;/em&gt; This is the part where the vast majority of the sugars in your beer are converted to alcohol. The main byproducts of this stage are again CO2 but also different types of alcohols. This stage will take a varying amount of time depending on the style of the beer and factors such as temperature, but it will typically take at least 2 days but no longer than a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Secondary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time secondary fermentation has begun, the majority of wort sugars have already been metabolized by the yeast and the beer will be very close to its final alcohol content. It is marked by an extreme slowdown of the speed of fermentation. At this point many brewers &lt;em&gt;rack&lt;/em&gt; or move their beer from the primary fermentation vessel to a secondary one. During this step some of the more complex sugars are consumed by the yeast, as well as some of the byproducts of primary fermentation which would otherwise mar the taste of your beer. The beer reaches its final alcohol content at the end of this phase. This process usually takes around a week or sometimes more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Lagering&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calling this its own stage is a bit of a stretch, as it's really the same as the &lt;em&gt;secondary&lt;/em&gt; stage. Essentially for lager beers, the secondary stage is drawn out over the course of several months by keeping the beer cool. During this stage most of the yeast settles out of the beer and the byproducts of primary fermentation are broken down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Sources:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Brew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wyeast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14947" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T17:25:43.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20414" CreationDate="2017-06-04T16:53:20.963" Score="6" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;guys, I just started homebrewing and I want to know what are the essential data one should collect when brewing beer other than hop schedules and gravities.&#xA;What additional statistics do you suggest I should focus on which will be helpful for the longer term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15090" LastActivityDate="2017-06-07T23:45:28.163" Title="What are the essential data one should collect when brewing beer?" Tags="|beer|techniques|first-time-brewer|beginner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20413" CreationDate="2017-06-04T17:52:30.427" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd collect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe: grain bill, hops and their times, adjuncts and their times, amount of water. That way you can try to recreate the same beer if it was good. You can tweak any of grain bill, hops, timing, and so on to see how the beer changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get more advanced, take other readings: You already mentioned gravity. When you brew all-grain, you can take that at different stages, for example, at the beginning and at the end of lautering to see how gravity changes from first runnings / vorlauf to last runnings. You can use that data to check how good you lautering work is. At some point ph readings may be interesting, to know if you want to change the ph of your water, e.g.,by adding acid malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the process, you can check how fast you can heat up your water (especially when doing multi-step mashes). That will help in planning or give you an idea whether you need a bigger burner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2017-06-04T17:52:30.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20413" CreationDate="2017-06-04T21:08:22.910" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a couple reading I find important that many over look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-grain. Mash pH is very important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing an iodine test during the mash is a good practice to check if conversion is done. Why mash for 90 min if it's done at 45?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water chemistry. Most home brewers build thier own profile from RO. Then many have great local water. Knowing what's in it will help brewing, as different ions have a big effect on flavor and reaching your correct mash pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Record all Alpha Acid % of the hops so you can correct the AA from brew to brew. Each harvest varies in AA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Almost forgot Chill time. This is very important for late hop additions. Isomerization will continue until the wort is below 175°F.  So you should include this chill time to your total hop addition time. Additions that have 45 minute or more are unaffected since isomerization will have completed. But those late aroma and flavor additons may bitter too much if chill time isn't included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-06-07T16:56:05.717" LastActivityDate="2017-06-07T16:56:05.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-04T22:56:27.707" Score="2" ViewCount="5070" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.frugalwoods.com/2014/08/11/how-to-cheap-homemade-seltzer-with-a-modified-sodastream/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;documentation&lt;/a&gt; online on how to connect a soda stream to a large CO2 tank.  I was wondering if this could be done using using  tank with 'beer gas', co2/nitrogen, mix and would give the Guinness bubble effect to whatever you infused (coffee, water, beer,etc)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15092" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T08:54:14.507" Title="Using beer gas in a soda stream" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20416" CreationDate="2017-06-05T02:26:47.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer gas is designed to push beer in lines that are really long. Where using just CO2 would over carbonate the beer in the lines. The CO2/nitrogen blend doesn't infuse into the beer much allowing much higher pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get that stout head you need a special tap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of coffee shops pouring with nitro for that creamy thick head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attaching beer gas to a soda machine would pour flat soda&lt;/strong&gt; compared to CO2.&#xA;Because it mixes syrup water and CO2 on the fly, and beer gas doesn't carbonate much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect if you had a keg of ready to drink soda (mixed and carbonated) and pushed it with Beer gas using a stout tap. It may give you a similar head to a stout though would dissipate quickly not having the proteins to let it persist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-06-05T06:50:52.043" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T06:50:52.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1154" CreationDate="2017-06-05T07:03:32.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not boil the wort when making beer from extract. There is no reason to do so. One can do it but it will turn out the same as when not boiled. Many extract beer kits now recommend this method for safety and for economy/efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hop utilisation IS NOT BETTER in a full wort boil. It is better when the hops are boiled in plain (tap) water and that water added to the extract/sugars in the Fermentation vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;You can handle a full batch of wort from a mash tun&quot; - really? With an extract brew why would one use a mash tun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Hop utilization suffers (in a partial boil)&quot; - no it doesn't, that is just plain wrong. Hop utilisation is maximised when boiling in plain water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T07:03:32.900" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20406" CreationDate="2017-06-05T20:00:59.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As everyone else has mentioned, I wouldn't worry about it. The only thing I would be mildly concerned about is contamination. With that being said, there isn't anything you can do about it now except wait and see. I also would've taken gravity readings after adding the sugar so that alcohol can be accurately measured in the final product. Whatever though, no big deal. It's just something to keep in mind next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14436" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T20:00:59.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19081" CreationDate="2017-06-05T21:29:40.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Enter it in both. I have a buddy who will carpet-bomb several categories with the same beer if it has elements of more than one style. You'll get feedback on whether it's too sack or too dry for the style. On the other hand, you may win both. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T21:29:40.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18313" CreationDate="2017-06-06T11:33:14.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would include it, as it is water that you grains do not have &quot;direct access&quot; to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @thesquaregroot commented, you need enough water to cover your grains. Maybe do a test, add the water - 20 gallons to the mashtun, add the grains and see if the grains are covered and the liquid/grain ratio is to your preference. If not, add the extra 20 gallons of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T11:33:14.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20416" CreationDate="2017-06-06T11:49:37.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sodastream uses cool water and a syrup that you carbonate with the pressure from the CO2 and the bottles that seals tight to the device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using other liquids (like wine or flat beer) in a soda stream causes &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=860e_AgaF-Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ceilings to change color&lt;/a&gt;. I am not sure of coffee will work either. So before you do any changes to your machine, go outside and test if you can carbonate your drink of choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding BeerMix, I think you stand a chance of causing a lot of damage. As @EvilZymurgist pointed out, beermix is a bit different from CO2. For one, you will need a special regulator as the gas is at a higher pressure than CO2 and you will need a special tap that can work at such high pressures. As a Sodastream is made to handle CO2 pressure, I believe that you may be putting yourself at night pushing a higher pressure gas through the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; want to pour coffee or any other liquid using nitro, get the proper dispensing setup and the kegs. Fill the kegs with your choice and have fun. And if you do not want your liquid to be carbonated, buy the beermix with the least amount of CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T11:49:37.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-06T14:23:08.157" Score="4" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have kegged a nut brown ale and it turned out awesome. I would like to put some of it in bottles to save it and ship to friends. Is that possible? Would I need to do anything to it before putting it in the bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14531" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T10:36:16.173" Title="Bottling after kegging" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20423" CreationDate="2017-06-06T14:29:14.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a beer gun, growler filler tube, or bottle filler attachment. Release keg pressure and reduce PSI to barley push the beer. 1-2 psi. Chill sanitized bottles, fill and cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer guns are nice because they have the option of purging the bottle of air with cO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T14:29:14.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20413" CreationDate="2017-06-07T23:45:28.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building off other answers I'd add measuring and recording accurate volumes is key to either all-grain or extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the most important thing is that you remember to take notes at all.  Getting into the habit of taking notes is a best practice regardless of which data you collect.  As you grow as a brewer you might find certain data points more important than the data others collect.  It isn't always universal.  Maybe your water is nearly perfect for the beers you want to brew so pH isn't that big a deal.  Maybe you are a brewer who always makes the same basic beer and then gravity isn't that important to you.  However, maybe you really like to try the same basic ingredient but like to try different maltsters.  So that info is something you should write down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the notes on every batch is far more important than remembering to collect the &quot;right&quot; data every once and a while.  Helps you track and make adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-06-07T23:45:28.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20376" CreationDate="2017-06-08T00:48:58.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There actually is a simple formula that can be applied to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;V&lt;sub&gt;r&lt;/sub&gt; = 4.85 * P&lt;sub&gt;a&lt;/sub&gt; / 12.4 * T&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V&lt;sub&gt;r&lt;/sub&gt; = Volumes of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P&lt;sub&gt;a&lt;/sub&gt; = Absolute pressure, in PSI&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;T = Temperature, in degrees F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd just need to use a tool like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mide.com/pages/air-pressure-at-altitude-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to calculate the absolute pressure at your particular altitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Equation is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbaa.com/store/Pages/25513.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; book&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;edit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should also note this equation can be used to find the equilibrium carbonation level in any situation the pressure and temperature are known, i.e. low-and-slow force carbonation, draught line balancing etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just need to make sure to use the &lt;em&gt;absolute&lt;/em&gt; pressure, which in this case will be atmospheric pressure &lt;strong&gt;plus&lt;/strong&gt; gauge pressure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2017-06-08T14:00:05.300" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T14:00:05.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20423" CreationDate="2017-06-08T10:36:16.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While a beer gun is not the only weapon of choice, counterpressure filling is definitely the way to go. Whatever you do, purge your bottles of CO2 first in order to keep as much oxygen out of the bottle once you cap it; oxygen will oxidize your beer over time (and more quickly if it gets shaken up during shipping) and produce &quot;wet cardboard&quot; aromas. Also keep in mind that even with proper purging you won't have any appreciable amounts of yeast left in the beer to act as an oxygen scavenger, so your shelf life will be limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During shipping your beer will be exposed to adverse conditions. Depending on the stability of the beer higher temperatures may shorten the shelf life, and depending on sterility higher temperatures may promote bacterial spoilage. So the advice would be to ship and drink fairly quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T10:36:16.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20416" CreationDate="2017-06-08T10:44:14.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;DO NOT use a CO2/Nitrogen mix in combination with equipment designed for CO2!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pressure of the CO2/N2 mixture is much higher, and using cylinders and/or pressure regulators and gauges designed for CO2 can rupture and explode, leading to injury or death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sodastream, paintball gun and fire extinguisher cylinders are all rated for CO2 pressures only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use CO2/N2 mixtures use cylinders, ONLY USE pressure regulators and gauges designed for that mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T10:44:14.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19054" CreationDate="2017-06-08T10:47:40.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general suggestion on recipe formulation, this would be a good starting point: &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewmanual.com/home-brewing-calculations/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://homebrewmanual.com/home-brewing-calculations/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T10:47:40.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-08T15:02:46.997" Score="3" ViewCount="1017" Body="&lt;p&gt;First posted question here so sorry if I've missed a previous answer. I've been trying out a secondary ferment in old champagne bottles of a barrel fermented cider. When decanting into the bottles I have been careful to exclude all sediment from the first ferment and the brew is nice and clear. To start things going again I've used either apple juice or sugar. I'm very happy with the carbonation, but the fermentation is leaving dead yeast as a sediment which clouds up the cider once opened. I was thinking that a way around this might be to use carbonation drops to get the fizz hence no sediment. What's the quality of the bubbles like in terms of size and how do they last in the glass if using drops?&#xA;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15098" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T16:25:33.607" Title="Carbonation drops in cider" Tags="|carbonation|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20430" CreationDate="2017-06-08T16:25:33.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbonation drops are just aliquoted doses of sugar.  They still carbonate by the action of yeast in the bottle.  I don't think carb drops will solve the problem you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T16:25:33.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20416" CreationDate="2017-06-09T09:47:24.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Evil Zymurgist, in response to your comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're not wrong, but you could be more right. When comparing the effects of CO2 with that of N2/CO2 mixtures on the head, we're looking at both head formation (which is a factor of carbonation) and head density and retention (which is more a factor of beer foam mechanics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct in that gas pressure (be it CO2 or a N2/CO2 mixture) is the driving factor in head formation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is the N2 that is responsible for the creamy head on ales (most typically stouts) because N2 bubbles are much smaller than CO2 bubbles (for reasons involving a lot of physics) and thereby cause a denser foam that consists of less gas and more beer and foam-positive compounds. Also, because the partial pressure of N2 in the atmosphere is dramatically large than that of CO2, the N2 content in the head is much closer to equilibrium, which keeps the bubbles in the foam rather than allowing them to escape, pop, and vent off into the atmosphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stout or nitro tap to which you refer is essentially a flow controlling faucet or nozzle which makes for a very slow pour that allows the nitrogen to come out of suspension in a controlled manner (unlike CO2 nitrogen is not in solution, being for all intents and purposes water-insoluble) that allows a thick, creamy head to build without causing excessive foaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are absolutely correct in your statement that kegs should not be overpressurized in order to avoid overcabonation. However that's not what we were discussing here. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T09:47:24.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20436" CreationDate="2017-06-10T20:33:06.640" Score="2" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to homebrewing, and I'm currently making some mango wine. Now stupidly my pectolase and yeast are in very similar looking containers and I've just added my yeast (thinking it was pectolase) to my fruit mash. &#xA;In a panic to try to save it, I immediately added the pectolase and gave it a good stir. Temp was about 34degrees celcius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone please tell me everything will be fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15107" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T21:02:41.570" Title="Accidentally added yeast before pectolase :/" Tags="|fruit-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20433" CreationDate="2017-06-11T03:40:45.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=239080&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Homebrew Talk thread&lt;/a&gt; it seems like the primary reason pectolase is added earlier in the process is due to low alcohol tolerance. However there should have been virtually no alcohol when you added the pectolase as it takes hours for yeast to multiply and begin fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how vigorous your fermentation is and possibly many other factors you could potentially end up with extra pectins in the final product or have simple saved yourself some time. It may be hard to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32778&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Winemaking Talk post&lt;/a&gt; suggests that this is a topic people are split on.  It seems at least that some people add both at the same time with no perceived ill effect, which is promising for your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with many things in homebrewing, you probably didn't ruin your batch (at least not too much) and regardless you have another variable to play with in the future to figure out how to make what you like to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-06-11T21:02:41.570" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T21:02:41.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-11T14:00:24.377" Score="6" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the family which owns a local chinese restaurant near me. They have very many buckets which they toss regularly. The other day they gave me a Kari Out co. bucket at one time used for duck sauce, it appeared to have oil and red pepper in it when i opened it up some of which appears to have stained the plastic.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w27o0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, the bucket is in good shape and has a liner in the lid which is good, it smells very faintly of oil (think of those little crispy things they give you with soup).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I no longer have my dedicated brewing bucket and nearest LBS is over 30 minutes away but would like to make a small batch of beer and have everythinf else necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would the risk be by using this container for primary fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T11:33:28.723" Title="Used buckets as primary fermentation container?" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20437" CreationDate="2017-06-11T14:28:48.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's always risk in repurposing plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mainly once it's scratched it can't be sanitized properly and can harbor microbes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be concerned with the staining because it means the plastic is permeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the recycle code on the bottom. #2 in a triangle of arrows indicates HDPE and is good for fermentation. 1,2,4,5 are food grade containers, but not all are ok for alcohol and low pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's #2 food grade, clean it up and sanitize it. Give it a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T14:28:48.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20437" CreationDate="2017-06-11T16:17:05.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used similar buckets for fermenting everything from KimChi to wine. Although not in the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; bucket. I used very hot water and PBW to clean/sanitise. Seems to work OK for home brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with the comment that there is always a risk in repurposing used plastic containers. But IMHO the risk is lessened if the original use was for containing food stuffs. Whether one can remove residual tastes or odours is another question but &quot;peroxide&quot; or &quot;percarbonate&quot; based cleaners do also seem to work quite well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T16:17:05.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-11T18:35:50.863" Score="3" ViewCount="2437" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have just made our first brew - an all grain pale ale. As per recipe we left it fermenting for a week, syphoned into a separate bucket, adding the priming sugar and then bottled. The beer is cloudy!! Would like to know why this might be and if the brew will be safe to drink after conditioning?? Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15113" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T20:38:43.040" Title="Cloudy beer after bottling?" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20437" CreationDate="2017-06-11T19:29:37.373" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No Way. It takes too long to make beer only to have a lousy bucket goof it up. Penny wise pound foolish. Buy a new Spidel if you want plastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T19:29:37.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20440" CreationDate="2017-06-11T20:25:05.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only a week fermentation and still cloudy. Typical of still having yeast in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Let the bottles condition, then cold crash in the bottle.&lt;/strong&gt; After a few days on chill your beer should be clear. Just don't stir up dregs when pouring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T20:25:05.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20440" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:04:06.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You sound new to this so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you know your beer was finished in the primary? 1 week with a yeast you don't know may not have been enough time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your beer was not finished you may have just created a ticking time bomb with those bottles, if so this is VERY DANGEROUS. There have been many folks permanently hurt with bottle bombs, glass flies everywhere when they explode. Open one up a few days after bottling and if it foams all over the place it likely means this is actually dangerous. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expecting commercial clarity from homebrew without knowing your recipe or the yeast you used would not be a reasonable expectation. Some yeast will drop completely clear, some don't, and some are in between. Combine that with ingredients that can haze the beer and you have a rather complex set of variables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T12:04:06.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20444" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-13T03:34:57.163" Score="2" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a Tetra 77848 and some standard 1/4&quot; ID tubing to aerate my wort. However, there's an issue with the tubing hooking up to the output on the tetra, it's too narrow for the 1/4&quot; tubing. I rigged the tetra by wrapping it with some electrical tape to make it thicker, but it tends to come pop off while I'm aerating. Is there a good way to attach this tubing to the air pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15114" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T17:09:47.917" Title="Hooking a Tetra 77848 to an air stone" Tags="|aeration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20444" CreationDate="2017-06-13T09:20:12.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wasn't able to find a good spec sheet for that pump, but a comment somewhere said the outlet is 1/8&quot; (and that is typical), so 1/4&quot; tubing is quite a bit larger than you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When aerating wort, you shouldn't really be needing much pressure, giving you some room for creativity when making this connection. You'll just need something better connection than electrical tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One choice: go to your local auto parts store and find some vacuum line adapters. You might find a 1/8-1/4 adapter, which would be perfect. Or you might find a thing with a hose barb on one end and cone on the other. This is meant for temporary connections to vacuum, but should be OK for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way: Get a bit of 1/8&quot; tubing and shove it inside the 1/4&quot;. Then shove the two layers of tubing over the outlet of the pump. This won't really be secure until some kind of clamp is added. A small spring clamp (again from your local auto supply) would work, or a zip tie pulled tightly over the two tubes. BTW, this type of tube-to-tube connection will require a metal tube in the inside to prevent collapse, so make the joint right on the pump outlet, not somewhere downstream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;----edit-----&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yet another way: you might find a sanitary filter to be a useful hose adapter, with bonus of cleaning the air going into your wort. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/aeration-system.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This oddly familiar setup&lt;/a&gt; shows how such a filter  might be used. Finding a filter with that accepts 1/8&quot; and 1/4&quot; tubing might take some digging, but they are out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2017-06-13T17:09:47.917" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T17:09:47.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20406" CreationDate="2017-06-13T16:37:23.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about this type of mistake. During my second kit brew I forgot to add the sugar until a day later! It all worked out fine. I am told that brewers of some particular styles (eg.strong Belgian ales) prefer the addition of sugar in stages rather than all at the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T16:37:23.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20440" CreationDate="2017-06-13T16:43:57.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just opened one and there was a lovely little hiss and that was it thank god!! Having done some research it appears we did quite a few things wrong during the brew so am looking forward to the next time and doing things differently! Thanks again for the tips &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15113" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T16:43:57.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20297" CreationDate="2017-06-13T16:56:25.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that odours can build up in a washed but then sealed container. I often use PBW on my plastic brew buckets and even though washed and sterilised the remains of the PBW can themselves provide nutrient for mold growth if not thoroughly rinsed out and then drained/dried. So it is usually best to scrub/rinse the buckets after use and then sterilise (eg with hot PBW/Starsan/whatever) before use. I mean rinse, store, sterilise, use. Of course its possible to sterilise before storage but then I recommend at least scalding the brew bin with boiling water to passivate any lurking microbes that may have returned during storage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T16:56:25.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20453" CreationDate="2017-06-14T09:27:23.317" Score="3" ViewCount="2291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was cooling down my wort in the sink and couple of drops of sanitiser dripped from my hand into the cooling liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was using VWP and the solution was as per the instructions 1 teaspoon per 4 litres. I would say less than 5ml got into 5 litres of brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pitched my yeast but feel like I am seeing very little action from the bucket. So my questions are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it safe for consumption?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will that amount of steriliser kill off my yeast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15118" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T12:10:41.247" Title="I got some sanitiser in brew now I am not sure if its fermenting" Tags="|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20451" CreationDate="2017-06-14T10:07:03.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;VWP appears to be a sterilizer that requires a sanitary rinse after use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vwpcleanersteriliser.co.uk/faq.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.vwpcleanersteriliser.co.uk/faq.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 5ml of concentrated VWP powder went into 5 liters of wort, I would say it's not safe to consume and the yeast will be severly effected if not dead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer doesn't specify what it's active ingredients are. So... &lt;strong&gt;I would dump the batch.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T10:07:03.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20451" CreationDate="2017-06-14T13:29:04.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If found this interesting FAQ in the link EZ provided:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I forgot to rinse out the equipment. Will my beer/wine be OK?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  All equipment should be rinsed before use. Anything left in a fermenting vessel will affect the taste. Any active bacteria feft may kill the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, they don't mention that is poisonous, but the taste and yeast may be affected.  Two or three drops might not have such a big impact.  I would continue the process and taste it before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this link, you will probably be fine: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=25587&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=25587&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-06-14T17:18:56.567" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T17:18:56.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20451" CreationDate="2017-06-14T15:48:17.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow!  This is some pretty serious stuff.  While I agree with Evil that the batch should be dumped, I would take another step... look for a no rinse solution.  Here in the US, many homebrewers use a product called StarSan.  It leaves a foam on the surface (which, as I understand it, is a yeast nutrient).  In reality, there is no way I would let anything non-consumable (not that you want to drink StarSan concentrated) near my brewing equipment.  As it turns out, you can buy it in the UK:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Five_Star_Star_San_16oz_454g.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Five_Star_Star_San_16oz_454g.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T15:48:17.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15398" CreationDate="2017-06-14T19:28:47.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience yes they can, sometimes the top of the bottle can be strangely shaped and stop some cappers working but usually you are fine to recap with crowns for your home brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T19:28:47.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20457" CreationDate="2017-06-14T23:52:35.143" Score="1" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;My last two batches have been infected with a bacteria infection. I'm curious what species of bacteria could survive the alcoholic conditions of the brew? The first infected batch appear to have colonies post-bottling, coating the inside of the PET bottles with what appear to have the size and spread of typical Lactobacillus colonies. My second infected batch had a large colony in the area of the Krausen Collar in primary fermentation - seemed to be more shiny and gooey reminiscent of an aerobic bacteria of some sort - this had a somewhat noticeable effect on the smell and taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15120" LastEditorUserId="8492" LastEditDate="2017-06-16T09:18:55.747" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T15:04:53.907" Title="What bacteria species grow in brewing conditions?" Tags="|bacteria|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20456" CreationDate="2017-06-15T01:48:12.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lactobacillus breques is the most common one, followed by Pectinatus spp. The latter and Zymophilus can grow in pH between 4.3 and 4.6, with ethanol below 5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other ones are:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pediococcus acidilactici&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pediococcus damnosus&lt;br&gt;&#xA;P. dextrinicu&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Acetobacter spp.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pediococcus cerevisiae&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Acetobacter spp.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Zymomonas&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Lactobacillus spp.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pediococcus cerevisiae&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Gluconobacter oxydans&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW 'spp.' is short hand for 'species'. As in &quot;Lactobacillus spp.&quot; means all kinds of Lactobacillus and his brother will be found as contaminants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14889" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-06-16T10:00:59.770" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T10:00:59.770" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20437" CreationDate="2017-06-15T04:19:18.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you clean it and does not have any smells, then I would say it is possibly good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I just go to the closest plastic shop and buy a bucket from them. I know this is not always an option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastEditorUserId="3056" LastEditDate="2017-06-27T11:33:28.723" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T11:33:28.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20451" CreationDate="2017-06-15T12:42:02.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drink it. At least do not discard a brew before completion and without subsequent taste testing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few drops of made up VPW solution in a 25 ltr batch &quot;is nothing to really worry about&quot;. I doubt it would affect the yeast activity if sufficient active yeast is pitched. The active chlorinating agent in VPW has been used to sterilise water containing pathogens - it is then drunk. And that is in concentrations you can taste. So that aspect of VPW is pretty risk free. The surfactant aspect is another matter but at this concentration they are equivalent to something like the residue left on a hand washed dining plate or pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine the taste being affected but give it a try after it has fermented. If it tastes OK then IMHO one should drink it. One might find that the surfactant had been &quot;bio-transformed&quot; and the chlorinating agent had been chemically reduced rendering it inactive. In this state is it is biologically almost inert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO there is too much paranoia about minute amounts of common chemicals being present in water/liquor or on brewing utensils . I accept that if one knocked a pot of VPW into the brew it should be discarded. But a few drops of made up solution - are we joking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-06-16T12:10:41.247" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T12:10:41.247" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20456" CreationDate="2017-06-15T12:50:13.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good article about bacteria and beer brewing can be found in this link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sourbeerblog.com/fast-souring-lactobacillus/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sourbeerblog.com/fast-souring-lactobacillus/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its an article in a blog about sour brewing. But if one scrolls down halfway(ish) the author discusses other biological agents and their preferred brew environments - and the sort of tastes/odours associated with them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-06-15T21:50:30.710" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T21:50:30.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20464" CreationDate="2017-06-16T07:23:11.307" Score="6" ViewCount="3209" Body="&lt;p&gt;My beer is close to being done fermenting. There is 5 gallons of it and I was wondering if instead of putting it into a bunch of bottles I could put it into 5 glass jugs that have rubber corks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15123" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T13:35:51.050" Title="Can I put my beer into a glass jug instead of a bunch of bottles or will a cork not hold up to carbonization" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20461" CreationDate="2017-06-16T08:28:42.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have put my beer into 2 litre growlers before with a locking cap which was a nice way of bottling it quickly, although it does come with its down sides, for example it's hard to chill in a standard fridge without mixing in the sediment and once you open the bottle you are sort of locked into drinking 2L of it, which isn't always a bad thing :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a straight cork I think you really would run the risk of some explosions. You could use champagne corks with a cage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15118" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T08:28:42.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20461" CreationDate="2017-06-16T09:05:00.960" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have put my beer into 2 litre growlers before with a screw cap which is a nice way of bottling it quickly, but that ba***rd exploded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't put your beer in anything isn't made for pressure. And that means allowing for more pressure than you planned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T09:05:00.960" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20461" CreationDate="2017-06-16T11:57:29.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In principle beer can be put and stored in &quot;a glass jug with a rubber cork&quot;. However it might be difficult to naturally carbonate the brew to any degree in a rubber stopped glass jug. Any pressure build up would tend to &quot;self vent&quot; unless the stopper was firmly wired on. Some types of rubber stopper can also affect the taste of any beer they come into prolonged contact with. So I would not recommend a glass jug used for anything other than temporary storage of beer. For example - to decant into prior to pouring into a glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better but cheap option might be to re-use 500mL/1L plastic fizzy drinks bottles (usually screw top PET plastic bottles). They are shatter resistant and will keep fizzy beer for at least 4 months and probably slightly longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T11:57:29.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20461" CreationDate="2017-06-16T13:35:51.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 gallon glass jugs made for juice / wine are not rated for any significant pressure. While they work great for starters or small batch fermentors I would not bottle condition in them or fill with carbonated beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have too much surface area for the needed 12 psi  for carbonation and will fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would use PET 2 liter soda bottles instead.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T13:35:51.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20467" CreationDate="2017-06-16T20:19:33.970" Score="2" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be boiling corn cobs and I was thinking about reusing this water to make a brew batch.  I know some commercial breweries use corn as an ingredient, but I am unsure how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking that a light blonde beer would work well, like a Corona. It could be an all-grain batch, where I would use the water to mash my grain... Or it could be an extract batch, where I would used this &quot;tinted&quot; water in the mix...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done this?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Besides flavour, would it add some corn sugar as well?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Any recipe suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T20:27:01.140" Title="Reusing water from boiling corn cobs?" Tags="|beer|recipe-formulation|process|corn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20466" CreationDate="2017-06-16T20:25:05.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't advise. Idk if the husk has tannins but I assume it does, because &quot;corn hair&quot; does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case boiling will extract tannins if the water isn't treated to be blow 6.0 pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure if you still wanted to try it, you could taste the water before hand to see if it has the astringent properties of tannins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Best to just add some flaked maize to the mash.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-06-16T20:27:01.140" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T20:27:01.140" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19058" CreationDate="2017-06-16T22:31:53.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. But it might be a bit tricky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, get a hold of Champagne bottles, with correct stoppers. They can take the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, figure out how much alcohol your yeast can take. Than mix water and honey in amounts that will make the yeast consume all the sugars, but just.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When that process is done, dilute the mead with about 3~5% water. So now you just gave the yeast more room to eat sugars. Put a thee spoon of honey in the Champagne bottles each, fill with mead. That should give you a bit of spark when you open them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And wait, 6+ months, mead gets better with age...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15130" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T22:31:53.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20470" CreationDate="2017-06-17T05:18:48.537" Score="4" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently making my first homebrew -  a ginger beer using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madmillie.com/site/madmillie/files/V2_MM_GINGER%20BEER%20Book_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; kit and recipe. It's finished primary fermentation (hopefully, the cold weather has me concerned), and I've just bottled it for carbonation. My question is, should I have included the dregs from the primary fermentation jug in the bottles? The recipe says not to shake the jug while bottling, which I took to mean that the dregs weren't meant to be included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15131" LastActivityDate="2017-06-17T11:12:45.450" Title="Do I need the dregs from primary fermentation for carbonation?" Tags="|carbonation|first-time-brewer|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20469" CreationDate="2017-06-17T11:12:45.450" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. The settled yeast (trub/dregs) from primary shouldn't be included in bottling. There's plenty of yeast in suspension to bottle condition, &lt;em&gt;unless your cold weather was enough to completely crash and fine in primary.&lt;/em&gt; But that would need to be below 40°F for a couple days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-06-17T11:12:45.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-18T13:11:52.307" Score="3" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made elderflower &quot;champagne&quot; a few times using a traditional method without added yeast, simply relying on the natural yeasts on the flowers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to sourdough, the results may vary a bit depending on the &quot;yeast lottery&quot; one is playing and yes, sometimes a batch fails. This is usually noticeable after a day or three, I only bottle it up after the smell, taste and fizz tell me that everything is well on the way to the ripe drink. This is what I did with my latest batch this morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, elderflower season is still in full swing, the weather just right and I'm pondering a second batch. Usually, I'd be cleaning and boiling my fermentation jar before every use, but while bottling, I noticed a generous amount of sediment, which looks like a mix of yeasts and pollen to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sourdough baker in me immediately started wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Would just refilling the jar with fresh water, flowers sugar and citric acid be a good idea? Would the sediment act like a sourdough starter? Or would I commit the cardinal sin of working with a &quot;dirty jar&quot; instead, setting me up for failure?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the yeasty-alcoholic-fermenty smell of this batch was particularly nice and that I closed the fermenting jar immediately after pouring out the raw champagne, keeping contamination at a minimum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15134" LastActivityDate="2017-06-18T22:43:05.777" Title="Elderflower &quot;Champagne&quot;: would sediments from a first batch help the second one?" Tags="|yeast|sanitation|starter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20472" CreationDate="2017-06-18T13:55:20.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is probably fine and will start the fermentation faster. I do that all the time in homebrewing beer (with store-bought yeast, though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concern is in homebrewing that the yeast degenerates after a few cycles, and then starts producing off-flavors. But if you still leave it open for wild fermentation, that's probably not an issue anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2017-06-18T13:55:20.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20472" CreationDate="2017-06-18T16:35:38.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your are correct in your assumption that the old yeast cake will act exactly like a sourdough starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is smelling good, I would immediately pitch a new batch of elder-flower must straight onto the yeast cake and make some more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-06-18T16:35:38.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-18T19:08:19.797" Score="3" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;For reasons I won't go into - I threw together a bunch of ingredients to make something resembling a Barkshak Ginger Mead. I wasn't concerned with color so I used some non-standard ingredients. In the end I over saturated with water so the starting OG wasn't mead like. The list went like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ingredients (wort):&#xA;1 Can Dark Malt Syrup&#xA;3 Quarts Honey&#xA;2 Large Cherry Trays (Pitted &amp;amp; Juiced and added after the boil)&#xA;2 Ruby Red Grapefruits (squeezed and put in the cherry juice)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flavorings (made separately in 1 Quart Water boil - pitched just before the yeast):&#xA;6 OZ Ginger&#xA;2 Cinnamon Stick&#xA;Saaz Hops (fresh - not pellets)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeasts:&#xA;Belgian White Ale (liquid, refrigerated but 5 months old) &#xA;Champagne (dried)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting Specific Gravity 1.054&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anyway, it is in a closed fermentation and is chugging along like nothing I've ever brewed before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is - do I let this sit in the primary for a few months like a mead or just bottle like a beer ? I'm thinking it needs to age out like a mead in the primary. If anyone has done something similar on a whim - I'd appreciate your advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15136" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T14:40:45.473" Title="What did I make and how long to ferment?" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-18T20:26:32.340" Score="3" ViewCount="3050" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew kombucha and want to make cider. How could i make cider with very low alcohol level? i want it to be close to 1% if not lower. Is that possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15137" LastActivityDate="2020-10-17T18:14:48.173" Title="Making hard cider with very low alcohol" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20475" CreationDate="2017-06-18T22:23:13.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you made a &lt;strong&gt;Fruit/Spice Braggot&lt;/strong&gt;. Malt / honey / fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OG is low and should finish out nice in a couple weeks if the temp is kept below 70°F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should ferment much like a beer and be ready to drink in the same time as beer. Aging will melow and blend flavors more, but shouldn't need aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-06-19T14:40:45.473" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T14:40:45.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20476" CreationDate="2017-06-18T22:28:50.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt; There's too much sugar in Apple juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you could dilute it to get to 1% but it would taste like water with a hint of apple. Having about a 4:1 ratio water to juice to hit 1% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to stop a fermentation that would normally hit 5% or so would be very difficult. Keeping it from starting again would be an other big issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said. Possible yes, easy no. To have anything close to a cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-06-18T22:28:50.707" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20472" CreationDate="2017-06-18T22:43:05.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you got a good wild yeast. By all means try to capture it. Pitching your yeast should insure it becomes dominate on further batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not going to detail everything here but some items to look up for DIY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yeast washing&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yeast slants&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yeast starters&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Long term yeast storage&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short I would take a small portion of the trub and grow more for future use. Every few months you want to repeat to keep your culture alive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very important to capture on this batch, as future batches using this yeast with possible wilds from New flowers may kill your strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-06-18T22:43:05.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20476" CreationDate="2017-06-19T14:06:05.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the aim to make &quot;cider&quot; by fermenting apple juice with yeast- or is the aim to make a low alcohol sparkling apple based drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because making low alcohol anything with yeast is always a bit &quot;uncertain&quot;. Yeast rarely attenuates at 1% (or so) and so must be stopped by pasteurisation or by chemical suppression (think &quot;sorbate&quot;) at the correct time/ABV. Pasteurising (not boiling!) renders the result somewhat flat. However such a low alcohol brew can be force carbonated to produce a sparkling drink although I wouldn't overly recommend it. Alternatively many people like flat &quot;scrumpy&quot; cider (but I am not one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However fruit (especially sweet fruit)  can also be fermented with lactobacillius or a similar SCOBY to Kombucha, namely &quot;real ginger beer&quot; plant. These will produce little alcohol (1% is typical for real ginger beer). Both produce carbon dioxide and lactic acid which is a little sour. But this can play well with a juice high in sugars - it gives the classic &quot;sweet and sour&quot; taste that is quite becoming in a soft drink. Unfortunately SCOBY and lacto produced drinks are not particularly stable and the flavours can change over time, as can the carbonation level. So be wary of storage problems - ginger beer is the classic &quot;bottle bomb&quot; but is usually safe enough in a PET bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T14:06:05.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20476" CreationDate="2017-06-19T15:17:53.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical cider would give you from 4% to 8% alcohol depending on the sugar content of the apples.  So to obtain only 1 %, you need either to stop de fermentation at 1% or dilute the 5% cider with apple juice (pasteurized/no sugar added) to end up with a 1% cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To stop the fermentation, you can pasteurize and add potassium sorbate (it prevents fermentation from restarting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start from apples (not juice) try to pick the apples with the least sugar content if that is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T15:17:53.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-19T20:42:42.260" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I tried my first barleywine last night, and went with one that was recommended several places: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weyerbacher.com/beers/year-round/blithering-idiot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blithering Idiot&lt;/a&gt;. Although not obvious at first, after a few minutes this beer started smelling more and more like Twizzlers. To the point where I'm pretty sure whatever they make Twizzlers out of is present in this beer in a &lt;em&gt;significant&lt;/em&gt; amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is sort of 3-fold: what exactly is causing this aroma, is it an intentional quality (if anyone happens to know), and will it start to go away if I lay it down for a while?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14947" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T19:24:05.603" Title="What's up with the Twizzlers aroma?" Tags="|aging|aroma|barleywine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20490" CreationDate="2017-06-19T23:39:10.027" Score="4" ViewCount="12861" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering is it possible to turn fermented sugar water with an abv of around 15% into moonshine by freeze distilling it. Also wondering if i would have to worry about methanol when using this technique&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14838" LastActivityDate="2022-02-06T05:58:45.100" Title="Moonshine from freeze distillation?" Tags="|sugar|distillation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-20T00:08:37.403" Score="4" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something crazy happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of my last 8 batches of mead and beer 6 came out infected. I am cleaning my equipment with PBW and sanitizing with Starsan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make my batches in the kitchen (both beer and meads). Using clean tools, always keep at most 3-4 days old bucket with starsan solution, and yet, get every 3 out of 4 batches infected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it mean that I got some nasty air bacteria in the air that lands into a carboy? Or can any bacteria survive in Starsan solution? If that is in fact an equipment issue, would bleaching it help? If that is an air bacteria in the kitchen, what's the best solution for that? If that is a fermentation chamber issue (issues happen even if I ferment outside of it) what's the best and most effective way to sanitise it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;This is a new problem. Brewed for 3.5 years. Pretty successfully. Won multiple awards at the State level. Meads I don't boil and usually use different equipment/carboys for them. I changed all hoses and got a brand new 1.5 gallon carboy and few 1 gallon jugs. Got new stoppers and airlocks. Every once in a while I open the lid and ad staggered nutrients. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated. I'm loosing really good batches, and money...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:35:37.083" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:35:37.083" Title="Got major contamination in my brew" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|bacteria|disinfecting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-20T06:15:33.050" Score="0" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been searching for a kit to start all-grain brewing, but seem to find nothing from Europe. My lack of knowledge might have something to do with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15145" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T08:26:49.893" Title="Where (from Europe) to get a decent kit to start all-grain brewing?" Tags="|all-grain|first-time-brewer|kits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20483" CreationDate="2017-06-20T06:56:57.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one were brewing with yeast and sugar then one would not have to worry about methanol. methanol production only gets problematic when using fruits, especially stoned fruits, as a source of sugar when fermenting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freeze distilling can be performed multiple times on a standard mash brew to obtain a strong alcoholic drink (eg BrewDog's &quot;Sink the Bismark&quot; - 41%ABV). Whether that counts as &quot;moonshine&quot; is up to the consumer to determine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this question may be off topic for this particular brewing forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T06:56:57.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20485" CreationDate="2017-06-20T07:16:42.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many all grain kits available to buy in Europe. The problem is not so much the ingredients as the equipment to handle all grain. That can range from a cool-box and a kettle, a simple Brew in a Bag system up to a BrewMeister automatic system.&#xA;Here are some links to a typical UK brew shop that sells a range of equipment and ingredients. BrewUK even does all grain starter courses so one can receive instruction before using any system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewuk.co.uk/blog/cat/Techniques/post/allgrain_fullmash/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BrewUK intro to all grain brewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewuk.co.uk/beerkits/craftybrews/ag-starter-kits.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;All grain ingredient kits&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewuk.co.uk/equipment/ag-equipment/all-grain-starter-sets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;All grain equipment starter sets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just an example.There are many more. If one has never brewed before then an extract kits might be a good way to start. It gets the novice brewer used to handling the materials and the quantities involved and is somewhat simpler - but the beer is as good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T07:16:42.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20483" CreationDate="2017-06-20T07:29:58.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Methanol comes from cellulose &amp;amp; pectin, which for homebrewers means fruit. So, you shouldn't have any problem there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freeze distilling should increase your alcohol concentration, but I don't know how that would taste. Moonshine in my country is still made more-or-less like whiskey (corn, grains, etc).  Fermented sugar is more of rum making thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T07:29:58.803" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20485" CreationDate="2017-06-20T08:26:49.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My favourite shop in the UK for all grain kits is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/All-Grain-Brewing-Starter-Kits-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Home Brew Shop&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise as Barking.Pete says there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BrewUK&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For brewing in France there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.picomousse.fr/picomousse/index.php?cPath=42&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pico Mousse&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrewshop.be/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;These guys ship across Europe from Belgium&lt;/a&gt; site is available is French, English or Dutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in Sweden then &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrewshop.be/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vinland&lt;/a&gt; could help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if in doubt a little bit of google, google translate and amazon and you should be able to get all the things you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T08:26:49.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20483" CreationDate="2017-06-20T08:59:32.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right to be concerned about methanol it is a very nasty poison. You are at a lower risk of building up a dangerous level of methanol from all grain fermentation as it produces roughly 1/10 the amount of methanol as grape or fruit fermentation. I don't know about sugar water fermentation but as it lacks any pectin or cellulose it should be cleaner regarding methanol than grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In whiskey production which is a grain fermentation they drop the heads, and tails from the distillation, as the heads contain methanol and the tails off flavour longer alcohols. You do not have this luxury in freeze distillation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The level of methanol can be reduced by choosing a clean fermentor, the right yeast will ferment with lower methanol levels. Also good temperature control can also be used to reduce the levels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately testing for methanol is not easy or simple you can use &lt;a href=&quot;http://sciencing.com/test-alcohol-methanol-8714279.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sodium Dichromate and Sulphuric Acid&lt;/a&gt;, or send a sample for Gas Chromatography or Mass Spectroscopy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When thinking about brews like the famous Tactical Nuclear Penguin or Sink the Bismark, just remember that Brewdog will have sent these off for lab analysis before putting the product out for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this said you should be OK, but it is right to be concerned about such things and to understand the dangers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go this route, you are probably best to stop after a couple of rounds of freezing as you get diminishing returns after that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This topic of testing is discussed further &lt;a href=&quot;http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=1760&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T08:59:32.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20482" CreationDate="2017-06-20T12:44:51.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be hard to help with perceived flavors here due to obvious limitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can use this tool to best describe it, then we can help with solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beerflavorwheel.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.beerflavorwheel.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually barley wines are boiled a very long time to achieve the OG. This will also give the beer the effects of carmeling the wort in the boil producing a wide array of maliard notes. Also being a hoppy beer the style is open to all of those possible flavors and aromas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-06-20T19:24:05.603" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T19:24:05.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20484" CreationDate="2017-06-20T13:04:47.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time for a good sterilizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Break all your equipment down&lt;/strong&gt; that comes in contact with cooled wort, and use a sterilizing cleaner or boil the parts if they can handle the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dismantle all valves. (even on hot kettles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove fittings from lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use line brushes on all lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dismantle bottling wand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a plate or counter flow chiller, rubber seals can be removed and you can bake the chiller in the oven to sterilize. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Some basic brewday tips.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure hot wort runs through plate/counter flow for a few minutes before turning on chill water on every use. Place emersion chillers in the wort while on boil for a few minutes before too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cover all openings of cool side equipment with foil until ready for use. Lines, carboy, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure all fermenter airlock equipment is sanitized and use a sanitizer like starsan for the airlock fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-06-21T13:11:21.313" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T13:11:21.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6324" CreationDate="2017-06-20T17:09:55.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is way old but I wanted to add that with Brew In a Bag (BIAB) you can easily do 100% malted wheat since you don't need a bed to set up in the lauter tun. They have a slightly different flavor than 100% barley beers, but nothing crazy and if you roast some malted wheat to give you some darker flavors, you probably can't tell the difference!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T17:09:55.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20483" CreationDate="2017-06-20T19:37:24.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Q1) &lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; you won't achieve moonshine levels of alcohol with freeze concentrating without the ability to super freeze. Ethanol works like an antifreeze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themadscienceblog.com/2014/01/chemistry-of-beer-part-ii-freezing.html?m=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.themadscienceblog.com/2014/01/chemistry-of-beer-part-ii-freezing.html?m=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2) answers in other posts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T19:37:24.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20476" CreationDate="2017-06-21T15:01:48.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No matter how you look at it, alcohol is a function of the amount of fermented sugars. So if you want to brew a low alcohol beer, wine or cider, you have to make sure that the amount of sugars that ferments out is limited. This leaves you with two options: starting with a low amount of sugars, or stopping the fermentation before the alcohol strength exceeds your desired limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first option requires a wort or must with a low sugar content. If you have no control over the amount of sugar that you start with (e.g. you're being handed a certain type of wort or must by your supplier) that only leaves you with the second option: stop your fermentation early by killing or removing your yeast. However, that will leave you with a very sweet beverage, and if you haven't gotten rid of all your yeast you will have a &quot;wild&quot; fermentation in the bottle which results in higher alcohol levels than desired and exploding bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is where option 3 comes in: let your wort or must ferment out all the way into high levels of alcohol, and then remove the alcohol. The only way available to the home brewer to accomplish this is to boil it off. Unfortunately that will impact the flavor of your final beverage to some extent, but nothing in life is free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's it, as far as I can see...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T15:01:48.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20456" CreationDate="2017-06-21T15:04:53.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that apart from bacterial infections you can also have mold infections. I've seen some weird stuff floating on top of the beer and in the krausen over the years, and quite a few times that was some sort of mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T15:04:53.907" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19180" CreationDate="2017-06-21T15:49:10.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ian, is this the kind of device you are looking for: &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewingathome.co.uk/product/midget-widget-world-universal-barrel-hose/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brewingathome.co.uk/product/midget-widget-world-universal-barrel-hose/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T15:49:10.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2017-06-22T17:52:23.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the US by law it can not be called brandy or whiskey or rum, or any other standard category. It is a &quot;distilled spirit specialty&quot;, to which one can fix a &quot;fanciful name&quot; and a &quot;description&quot;. We at Quincy Street Distillery&lt;a href=&quot;http://quincystreetdistillery.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; have made such a spirit for 5 years, just distilled mead, we call it &quot;honey spirit&quot;, which also happens to be the European Union official category for this kind of spirit. Our fanciful name is &quot;Wildflower Honey Spirit&quot; and the brand name is &quot;Prairie Sunshine™&quot;. There are some European variants, as discussed here, most are fairly modern. Only older example I am aware of is making &quot;rum&quot; from honey in the Canary Islands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15150" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T17:52:23.833" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2017-06-22T17:52:23.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15711" CreationDate="2017-06-22T21:23:39.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally getting round to reporting back on this, only 2 years and many brews later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it fruity and full of flavour, slight hints of pine but rich dark fruits with a touch of citrus. I am absolutely sold on this hop for both bittering and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T21:23:39.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-23T17:57:55.227" Score="3" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I increase the viscosity of a Russian imperial stout?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard of making boils longer&#xA;Use oats,&#xA;What do you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you so much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards, Erik Dobrychtop. Cya o/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15152" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T01:05:25.507" Title="Viscosity of a Russian Imperial Stout" Tags="|techniques|stout|imperial|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20500" CreationDate="2017-06-23T18:21:03.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oats, long boil, higher mash temp, Cara malts, protein rest, and unconverted starches when applied properly will aid to give that thick body and viscous mouth feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mouthfeel comes from medium-sized proteins and unfermentable sugars (dextrins) usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RIS can utilize a lot of unfermented sugar, since the style allows for a lot of hops that can be used to balance the sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-06-23T18:26:23.223" LastActivityDate="2017-06-23T18:26:23.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20500" CreationDate="2017-06-23T18:21:32.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A higher mash temperature would always be my first port of call, push it up to 69-71 C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that yes oats can help, but you have to be wary of stuck mashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer boils will thicken the final product by concentrating sugars, proteins etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation would be to alter only one variable at a time and to start with a higher mash temp, next I would change the malt grist, then I would add oats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I would lengthen the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-06-23T18:21:32.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-25T12:25:51.737" Score="2" ViewCount="751" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time to brew. This morning when I checked the fermenter I noticed the airlock had blown off. I reinstalled it and cleaned up the mess. Will this lead to any contamination in my brew&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15159" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T21:48:13.633" Title="Air lock blow out" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20503" CreationDate="2017-06-25T15:32:09.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be okay. If the airlock got blown out by co2, that means that there is a nice headspace of co2 above your brew. Most bacteria won't be able to live in co2 so your brew should be all good. Let it ferment further and only start worrying if you see signs of infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14838" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T15:32:09.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19115" CreationDate="2017-06-25T18:57:19.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure you'll find a specific off the shelf concentrate since most of the apples will be purchased by the manufacturer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to do some research, and call local orchards to find what varieties they sell and can juice fresh for you, I find it to be much more satisfying that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3295" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T18:57:19.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20503" CreationDate="2017-06-25T21:48:13.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A blown airlock is most usually due to a vigorous fermentation and a lack of head space above the brew in the fermentation vessel. The airlock becomes clogged and the build up of pressure blows the bung. It is not an uncommon event but one that should be checked for - by leaving sufficient space over the brew in the fermenting vessel. Sometimes cooling will also help lessen the vigour of the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are that the beer will be fine. Many brewers brew beer in a brew bin without an airlock so temporarily not having one is not immediately fatal to a brew. It is true that infections can enter in such a manner but I would advise continuing the fermentation and to bottle/keg the beer as normal. It is not impossible that it could turn out badly but it is more probable that it will be OK. Only time and tasting will tell! Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T21:48:13.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-26T01:25:46.900" Score="2" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;My second brew was today and I have a sample from before the wart was throw in the fermentation bucket. It's a rye IPA and the sample tastes very bitter. I know that's to be expected, but I feel like it's more bitter than I thought and I am paranoid that the whole grain steeping might have released tannins. This is because we let the temp get slightly above 170 for a brief period (maybe 2 minutes - my girlfriend turned the burners up when I wasn't looking). I guess there's no way to know by asking on here. I guess my question in general is: does the wort(?) taste extremely bitter before fermentation vs. after? Would you be able to definitely taste tannins vs. hop bitterness? (Hops used were Magnum at boil followed by Omega at 35 minutes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14877" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T13:18:53.313" Title="Bitter flavor/tannins" Tags="|bitterness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20507" CreationDate="2017-06-26T02:57:33.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tannins will be apparent as an astringent dry bitter mouthfell that doesn't fade on quickly at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't take much time to extract tannins. But requires temp 170°F or above AND a pH of 6.0 or more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of this temp slip happened late in the mash its very likely that your pH was below 6.0 and there's no risk of tannins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One tell tell sign is that your pre hopped wort will be astringent right out of the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An inexperienced palet may not be able tell the difference from hop bitter and tannin astringentcy. But they are very different, mainly tannins will feel like a dry wine mouth feel rather than a bitter flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-06-26T03:24:12.267" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T03:24:12.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20507" CreationDate="2017-06-26T13:18:53.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer this specific question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'does the wort(?) taste extremely bitter before fermentation vs. after?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically yes. Bitterness from hops is in the form of hydro&lt;strong&gt;phobic&lt;/strong&gt; (water-repelling) iso-alpha acids. During fermentation these will tend to associate with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast cells (taste some yeast slurry and you're sure to notice how bitter it is)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermenter walls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rising bubbles of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pretty much any surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and be lost from the finished beer. So, when we use hop utilization values during the boil and whirlpool (roughly up to 35%) these actually take into account how much bitterness will &lt;em&gt;likely&lt;/em&gt; be lost during fermentation (i.e. it represents the overall efficiency, from wort to finished beer, not just the efficiency of kettle utilization). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also why it's good to use standard utilization values as a starting point for your own setup, not an absolute standard; your fermentation procedures may well cause you to lose noticeably more/less bitterness than the next brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T13:18:53.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20514" CreationDate="2017-06-27T05:00:56.547" Score="1" ViewCount="14359" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I purchased a 5 gallon keg online could I carbonate the fermented beer by adding the required amount of priming sugar to the keg? Do I need a CO2 tank or will I be fine just carbonating it with sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15123" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T22:17:28.840" Title="Carbonation in a 5 gallon keg with priming sugar" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20515" CreationDate="2017-06-27T05:42:10.327" Score="2" ViewCount="1667" Body="&lt;p&gt;After beer is done fermenting can I move it to a keg not carbonate it and let it sit for a long time? Or could it sit for a longer period of time after being carbonated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15123" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2017-06-27T20:14:01.300" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T20:47:00.817" Title="Storing beer in a keg" Tags="|kegging|secondary|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20511" CreationDate="2017-06-27T07:29:08.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do this regularly, not using a keg, but e.g. a glass container. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean and disinfect well before usage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that you do not splash when transferring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I also do is add some extra sugar to start a little fermentation to let the CO2 blow out the rest of the air after transfer. I use 4g per litre of volume that needs to be filled (you do need an airlock then of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it also depends of the kind of beer you have made. This is better for strong beers than for light beers. I do this for bock, barley wine and imperial stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T07:29:08.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20510" CreationDate="2017-06-27T07:34:52.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. This is just the same as using bottles, but with a larger container. However, I suppose this is only good for conditioning your beer. If you want to serve it, you will probably still need additional CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T07:34:52.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20510" CreationDate="2017-06-27T07:56:29.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer can be carbonated in a keg but generally it is advised to use less sugar than one might use when bottling the beer. The problem being &quot;gushing&quot; or foaming beer being dispensed until the pressure drops. As a guide I use approx 140gr of sugar/glucose for bottling a 24L batch of beer, but I will use about 100gr of sugar to prime a 24L plastic keg. Of course if the keg become too carbonated then some pressure can be released via the keg cap. However towards the end of the beer in the keg, the pressure is usually greatly reduced and the cap must be loosened to be able to dispense the rather more flat beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a CO2 bottle to carbonate and pressurise the beer means it can be regulated more precisely and more gas can be added as beer is taken from the keg. That allows the beer to be fizzy until the last glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer in a keg is good for a while after the first beer is dispensed, for example it is a good solution to use during an evening party or afternoon BBQ. However if the beer is dispensed from a keg over a longer time (eg a week or more) then it can be useful to have a CO2 cylinder to repressurise the keg and to keep the beer fizzy and to prevent excess air entering the keg. If no gas is allowed to enter the keg then a partial vacuum will form and make dispensing the beer more difficult by reducing or stopping the flow after a time. Also any such partial vacuum will tend to de-gas the beer in the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course kegs are perfect for dispensing beers with low carbonation like some British bitters and other ales but only for a short time. A few weeks is possible and in cold weather I have kept beer outside for a month in a keg while taking a pint every day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T07:56:29.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20511" CreationDate="2017-06-27T08:12:56.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would seem to be the same process as storing beer in a &quot;brite tank&quot; to allow it to clear after fermentation. Using a clean keg is always a good idea but I have found it sufficient to scald the keg using a kettle of boiling water. However I do clean and rinse the keg after use and before storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could leave the beer to clear in a barrel/keg/secondary bin without adding any sugar and I have done this for periods of two or three weeks without any ill effect on the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with the comment above about adding a small amount of sugar/glucose (dissolved in a minimal amount of boiled water) to allow some continued fermentation to scavenge the oxygen from a closed keg while conditioning/ageing. However almost 100g for a 24 L keg is sufficient to carbonate it for dispensing from the keg. If one wanted to store it less or &quot;un&quot;-carbonated then approximately 20g of sugar would be sufficient to start minor fermentation and scavenge the oxygen in the closed barrel. There would be little point in doing this for an unsealed keg/barrel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T08:12:56.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20518" CreationDate="2017-06-27T11:06:26.413" Score="5" ViewCount="2560" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some friends and I wanted to try to recreate the brew dog Vagabond Pale Ale from their &lt;a href=&quot;https://6303ffd34a16b1ca5276-a9447b7dfa4ae38e337b359963d557c4.ssl.cf3.rackcdn.com/DIY%20DOG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diy dog catalog&lt;/a&gt;. The grain bill looks as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pale Ale 3.38kg 7.43lb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caramalt 0.5kg 1.1lb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crystal 150 0.19kg 0.41lb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, when a recipe simply states &amp;quot;caramalt&amp;quot;, which one should you use, cara-pils, cara-vienna, or cara-someother?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read &lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/mead/item/1586-what-is-carapils&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; to try to clarify things, but that only helped confirm that they are all similar. Is there a way to know which one might be a better candidate for the beer style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastEditorUserId="6479" LastEditDate="2023-12-17T11:36:02.967" LastActivityDate="2024-02-20T12:34:50.823" Title="Recipe simply calls for caramalt" Tags="|malt|ale|pale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20516" CreationDate="2017-06-27T12:55:07.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Caramalt is its own thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/simpsons-caramalt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/simpsons-caramalt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/crisp-cara-malt-15-25-kg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/crisp-cara-malt-15-25-kg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It typically comes in around 15°L, so any crystal/caramel malt in that range should make a fine substitute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2024-02-20T12:34:50.823" LastActivityDate="2024-02-20T12:34:50.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20516" CreationDate="2017-06-27T14:27:52.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the &quot;Cara&quot; malts are malted for proteins and unfermentable sugars, to add head retention and body. (Dextrin malts)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually Cara malts will be matched with the base malt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In your case carapils, carafoam would interchange&lt;/strong&gt; with little flavor difference, since &quot;caramalt&quot; is basically crystal-20 with protein malting. Using carapils or other light cara malt will be a slight drop in final SRM color is all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe uses c-150 for the color which is a strong color addition. Using a simular Cara malt won't effect color too much, and could be made up with slightly more c-150 in the grist. Litterally only about 1/2 oz more as an estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of souces will say Cara malts are the same as Crystal or Caramel malts. They are not the same. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.brewingwithbriess.com/understanding-carapils/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://blog.brewingwithbriess.com/understanding-carapils/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Seems I'm catching a little neg vibe on this post. Let me clairify. All &quot;Cara*&quot; malts are brand names. There's a reason they are protected. The malting and kilning process is different than caramel, crystal, and roasted malts. In short Cara malts have sacharification terminated earlier before kilning than the other mentioned malts. So that some of the endosperm is left unconverted. This is why they add more body and foam than other kilned malts. As a side point. Many don't realize that all the benifiets of Cara malts can be nulified in a mash and they are best to be steeped, also if you mash properly you don't even need Cara malts as you can get the same results from base malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-06-29T15:09:32.940" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T15:09:32.940" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12925" CreationDate="2017-06-27T14:58:47.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An option for the future is to ferment the primary in one big carboy or brew bucket (since it's all the same recipe), then add the preserves in the secondary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be especially patient with the blackberry mead.  The taste of blackberry mead tends to start out at 'rocket fuel' before progressing to 'jet fuel' after at least a year.  Getting it to the point where it actually tastes &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; can be a multi-year process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just how big were these jars you added?  A massive addition of sugars like that could leave you with some &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; high ABV beverages that are sweet enough to mask how strong they are until you try to stand up.  Or it could strain your yeast, resulting in off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T14:58:47.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20522" CreationDate="2017-06-27T19:56:52.440" Score="3" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could I buy a 16 gallon keg and only fill it with 10 gallons of beer and just fill all the headspace with co2? Will this cause the beer to absorb too much and be too carbonated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15123" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T03:56:23.820" Title="Kegs head space" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20511" CreationDate="2017-06-27T20:47:00.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After beer is done fermenting can I move it to a keg not carbonate it and let it sit for a long time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bulk aging at cellar temps is generally not done in a keg, unless you use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-qd-adjustable-pressure-valve-wgauge.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwhMjKBRDjxb31j-aesI4BEiQA7ivN-CO4X5fnauZtDbsL0-qe3SxCRFQXTCdhPf79iVcapRAaAgLN8P8HAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spunding valve&lt;/a&gt; or something similar as if you leave it sealed, any pressure build up won't have anywhere to go and will carbonate the beer. The can have mixed results on the flavor of your beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or could it sit for a longer period of time after being carbonated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, a carbonated and sealed ale will last a long time at cellar temps; the stronger (higher ABV) and more hops (higher IBU or dry hopped) the longer it will last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bulk aging after carbonation at fridge temps is also known as lagering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The way it sounds is I can have a keg pressurized by co2 and continuously drink out of it for a couple of months. Does that sound right to you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a different question. Perhaps you should start with what it is you are trying to accomplish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T20:47:00.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20520" CreationDate="2017-06-28T03:56:23.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can do that. As long as you have a pressure regulator the head space does not influence how much your beer will be carbonated. Remember that CO2 dissolution in beer mainly depends on pressure and temperature, so consult a table like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and see what's best for your setup. Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T03:56:23.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20524" CreationDate="2017-06-28T16:21:08.847" Score="4" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the proper way to store SCOBY for periods over 3~4 months?&#xA;I've stored some discs/plates of SCOBY in the fridge (not freezing temperatures) on its own fermented tea, but after 3 months when I picked it up to do some kombucha, it did not ferment the tea. I've used the same process for periods of 1 month and the fermentation went well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastEditorUserId="12043" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T13:36:57.107" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T13:36:57.107" Title="What is the proper way to store SCOBY?" Tags="|storage|kombucha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20523" CreationDate="2017-06-28T17:33:03.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.culturesforhealth.com/learn/kombucha/how-to-take-break-making-kombucha-tea/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; recommends you keep culturing for less than 6 weeks. For longer, they recommend two options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Feeding&quot; the scoby every 4-6 weeks, where &quot;feeding&quot; consists of draining off the existing solution and adding fresh, sweetened tea. That site also recommends adding sugar over nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dehydrate the scoby (see the link)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, neither option claims to work more than 3 months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I have used a scoby that sat for over a year without any feeding or dehydration and it worked fine. It was just in a glass jar with about a quart of kombucha in the back of my fridge. This is probably abnormal though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That same site also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.culturesforhealth.com/learn/kombucha/what-healthy-scoby-look-like-kombucha/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shows you&lt;/a&gt; how to recognize a healthy scoby. I would highly recommend just getting another scoby if yours looks unhealthy after extended storage. Otherwise, if it looks healthy, give it a shot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T17:33:03.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20523" CreationDate="2017-06-28T20:02:18.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My ginger beer SCOBY has grown in a jar for over 9 years. If kept hydrated and fed (with ginger and sugar and occasional fresh lemon juice) it seems to keep well enough. If I do not produce/bottle ginger beer for a time then I rinse the SCOBY monthly (or so) and replace the old water which removes any build up of by-products. I still use the orginal &quot;plant&quot; to ferment ginger beer and it has grown considerably over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, as it grows I divide it. I think this is about the twentieth division - necessary to stop the RGB SCOBY from taking up too much of the volume of the 5L glass demi-john it is stored in. Sometimes I leave a part of the SCOBY in the divided liquid but without feeding it. It seems to be relatively stable if the solution is slightly acidic (pH 5 or less) which happens naturally in ginger beer fermentation. The lactic acid solution naturally produced does not seem to get overly sour and does not seem to pickle the SCOBY. Such SCOBYs in solution seem to &quot;hibernate&quot; when there is little or no nutrient but I have brought them back to activity by changing the water and adding sugar/ginger, sometimes after 5 or more months neglect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have dried some of the &quot;opaque jelly&quot; grains from such a division for storage. The grains change from an opal white colour to a more yellow/brown colour as they dry out. I have kept the dried grains for about 18 months in a sealed bag in the fridge and successfully re-hydrated the grains and used them to ferment. The grains tend to loose the colour when fully hydrated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T20:02:18.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-29T17:46:12.847" Score="1" ViewCount="810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my own home brew last year and I am doing it again this year. However I want to know if its possible to set my home brew up to a pub beer pump. What I mean by a beer pump is the kind of thing you get in a pub that pulls you a pint (tap, jockey, or any other way with or without CO2, but not a complete kegerator).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Info on this would be great as I don't have a clue if it's possible or what I would need to buy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers Stu &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15171" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-01T18:03:26.940" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T18:03:26.940" Title="Home brew and beer pump" Tags="|brewing|beginner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20527" CreationDate="2017-06-29T19:27:48.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt; you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equipment needed is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corney keg &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CO2 tank&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CO2 regulator&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer faucet / Tap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gas and beer lines &amp;amp; fittings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to mount the faucet to. Many will put on the front of a fridge that holds the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T19:27:48.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20527" CreationDate="2017-06-30T05:37:29.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This all sounds very British to me, so my yes will say: you can ferment your beer in a cask for the true pub experience. Wooden, plastic and (I think) stainless casks are available at home brew shops for this purpose.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, using a hand pump at home might be considered excessive, since the pump is intended to draw beer from a cask in cellar up to the pub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic method is to put the cask behind the bar and let gravity (and a bit of pressure) bring the beer out of the cask. OTOH, when you use a pump you can use a sparkler to aerate your beer while pouring (pumping), if that's something you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2017-06-30T05:37:29.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8013" CreationDate="2017-06-30T05:47:54.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're kegging the beer, age it until it passes a diacetyl test. This might not actually mean waiting at all, but if it is chilled before that cleanup is done, you might have an unpleasant surprise later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottle conditioning seems to be more forgiving since the second bit of fermentation helps things get cleaned up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, its just matter of taste, as others have said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2017-06-30T05:47:54.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20527" CreationDate="2017-06-30T08:00:50.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to look for &quot;Beer Engine hand pump&quot;. It requires no CO2 or pressurised kegs, the beer is held in a traditional cask and the appropriate lines connect the cask to the the hand pump. 4 or 5 pulls on the pump will draw your pint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can store the beer in other containers such as the more traditional home brew barrels, but you might find it harder to connect the tap to the lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15174" LastActivityDate="2017-06-30T08:00:50.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20534" CreationDate="2017-07-01T13:10:36.687" Score="4" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed my hefeweizen for the 3rd time. At the time of the first batch I'd read an article that suggested a ferulic acid rest at 110°F to accentuate the banana notes in the aroma.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I mash in a picnic cooler a la @DennyConn and am having issues with the raising the mash temp to the 150s.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initial mash is 11.75 lbs of grain and 2.9 Gal. of water @116°F.  I hit the temp fine and let it rest 20 mins.  At 20 mins, I added 3.8 Gal. of water at 170°F and only hit 140°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the strike temp calculator at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.com/calculators/?page=tools&amp;amp;section=strike&amp;amp;action=entry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Homebrewing.com&lt;/a&gt; with the  following data:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grain Mass - 34 lbs (2.9 Gal. water (@8.5lb/Gal) + 11.75 lbs) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grain temp - 110°F &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water amount 3.8 Gal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Target Mash 152°F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I verified using a different calculator and got similar results.  What am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, BeerSmith showed that I needed to use 189°F water for the sac rest and I ignored it in lieu of my regular calculator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(BTW, I added another 1.5 Gal. at near boiling to her the mash to 150°F to salvage the mash)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-09-01T19:38:10.967" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T19:38:10.967" Title="Step Mash Calculation" Tags="|mash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17192" CreationDate="2017-07-01T14:38:06.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;People spend too much time worrying about the grain bill.  I have made NE style IPA using zero wheat or oats.  Carapils by nature adds mouthfeel, My last one was 88 percent Maris Otter, 8 percent Vienna, and 4 percent Carapils.  It was super hazy.  The haze comes from the reaction of hops and yeast.  If you use S-04, Nottingham, 1318, or some Conan strain of yeast, and hop it continually during active fermentation, it's going to be hazy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15176" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T14:38:06.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20532" CreationDate="2017-07-01T15:59:22.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on what you provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;11.76 lb grain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.9 gal water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110f current temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to add.&#xA;3.8gal of 190°F water to reach 152°F in the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You need to use a mash Infusion calculator, not a strike water calculator.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You added water weight to grain weight and used a strike water calculator. Which would instruct to add 3.8gal at 170f.  Unfortunately heat transfer math for liquid is different than dry grain.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fyi: Because the infusion is above 170° the infusion water would need treated to a pH of 6.0 or below, to avoid tannins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2017-07-03T20:13:31.147" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T20:13:31.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20536" CreationDate="2017-07-02T05:59:30.543" Score="3" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think most of us here leave a head space that is the space left when we pull the wand out of the bottle. So, if we are dealing with still mead is the head space really necessary? Would this space + micro-oxygenation through the cork oxidate much faster long time aged meads? Or is this something we should not concern about? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T13:48:49.073" Title="Is head space really necessary when bottling still mead?" Tags="|bottling|mead|aging|headspace|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20535" CreationDate="2017-07-02T13:48:49.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt; the head space is important. At the very least, you need the head space to cushion fluid volume expansion &amp;amp; contraction from temp change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T13:48:49.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8013" CreationDate="2017-07-02T17:34:27.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't really condition dry-hopped beers like IPAs or German wheat beers. The hop aroma of an IPA or typical wheat beer aroma masks a bit the harsh off flavor of young beer. The dry-hop or wheat beer aroma does usually decline with time. Therefore, I recommend drinking them fresh. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an IPA, I dry-hop for one week when the main fermentation is over (usually three days after pitching the yeast). After dry-hopping, the beer can be filled to kegs or bottles. With sugar, the carbonation takes around one week. From now on, the beer is drinkable. Usually, the aroma of an IPAs improves a bit over the first few weeks and declines then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13959" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T17:34:27.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20510" CreationDate="2017-07-02T17:56:47.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Priming with sugar works with kegs the same as with bottles, but it's better to use a CO2 cylinder for tapping. For priming, one should never use fixed amounts of sugar, but calculate the right amount (e.g. with this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator&lt;/a&gt; calculator). With the right amount of sugar, there should be now foaming or gushing (except when hop pieces are in the bottle or keg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can theoretically use a beer keg without a CO2 cylinder, but the oxygen will destroy and carbonation loss will make the beer undrinkable in one day after opening. For real tapping, one need a CO2 cylinder and a good tap (one with flow control or a normal one together with a spiral hose to reduce pressure). With the right pressure (if you are not sure, better use a higher pressure like 3 bar, but disconnect the CO2 directly after tapping to prevent over-carbonation), one can tap without foam problems and the beer in the keg will stay fresh even after disconnect from the CO2 cylinder and tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13959" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T17:56:47.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20510" CreationDate="2017-07-03T13:08:21.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This largely depends on your keg type. If it is a cornelius keg, then priming with sugar is doable, but the first liter will also include most of your hibernating yeast. I run a small micro brewery, and have found my bottles require between 4-4,3 grams sugar per Liter (depending on style), but when I tap into Keykegs, 3,7 grams sugar per Liter is just Perfect for an IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keykegs are a nice solution that allows you to tap without CO2 available, as all beer is contained in a balloon inside the keg, and does not come into contact With whatever gas pressures the beer out (which is usually just air from a compressor). &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdZbaRifQDg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Keykeg demo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15181" LastEditorUserId="15181" LastEditDate="2017-07-03T13:14:54.103" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T13:14:54.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20541" CreationDate="2017-07-04T11:49:53.987" Score="2" ViewCount="1793" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started brewing a batch of mead (non-carbonated) and plan to bottle it in 1 L and 500 mL swing-top bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any advantage or disadvantage to sealing the swing-tops by dipping them in melted wax to further prevent oxidation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15182" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T08:21:31.227" Title="Sealing flip-top bottles with wax" Tags="|bottling|mead|oxidation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20540" CreationDate="2017-07-04T13:33:12.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wax dip gives an added layer of protection and look great too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most functional part of a wax dip is to &lt;strong&gt;prevent crimp caps from rust&lt;/strong&gt; from environment. Especially for beverages that will age in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wax doesn't prevent oxygen with caps, if the cap breaches the wax breaks too. If corking, then wax functions as the oxygen barrier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mtyh: Wax allows you to store beer on its side for aging. This is only true for corked bottles, to keep the cork wet and sealed. Wax on corked bottles allows vertical storage without o2 contact. Cap only bottles should never be stored on their side with or without wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wax will prevent the lip crud from turning into something harmful. That little bit of beer that gets trapped in the outside crimps. Sometimes can't always be rinsed out. Wax seals it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case with swing tops. The sealing portion is glass and rubber so there's no rust issues. &lt;strong&gt;Imo wax in this case will give no benifiet other than cosmetic&lt;/strong&gt;, and make for a mess to remove all the wax from the hinge for next use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-07-04T13:36:45.520" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T13:36:45.520" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20540" CreationDate="2017-07-04T14:19:23.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. There is no real advantage in dipping swing tops into molten wax before sealing. More to the point little bits of wax from the top might find their way into the mead. Being wax they tend to float and make presentation &quot;less than optimal&quot;.&#xA;Unfiltered/unpasteurised/unsterilised mead (like wine) will age well in a normally sealed bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-07-05T08:21:31.227" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T08:21:31.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20546" CreationDate="2017-07-04T18:25:41.640" Score="3" ViewCount="1945" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will a 50 feet copper immersion wort chiller chill twice as fast as a 25 feet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that once the water has absorbed all the heat it can, it doesn't matter how long it will travel in the tubbing.  So what is the ideal length ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-08T00:29:27.417" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T00:29:27.417" Title="Immersion wort chiller length" Tags="|chilling|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-04T20:19:24.893" Score="1" ViewCount="4146" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that I would not care for good flavor.  Would adding 1 lb of hydrated bakers yeast to of a 5 gallon of sugar wash with 17 lbs of sugar make the fermentation process any faster?  How much time would the process take in right temperature?  Both sugar and yeast used are dirt cheap where I am.  I'm going to distill the wash then flavor with strong whiesky essence afterwards so I don't care too much about the flavour of the wash.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers, &#xA;S&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15185" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T08:31:41.903" Title="Adding high amount of yeast to sugar wash" Tags="|yeast|sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20544" CreationDate="2017-07-04T23:53:35.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you google some liquor recipes like for rum people often make 'yeast bombs' to make their sugar wash ferment really quickly. Ive read recipes where people had 50L of wash made in about 2 days by adding a cup of bakers yeast. Obviously youll want to scale down for 5 gallons ( around 22 litres? ) but basically the more you add the faster it'll ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5994&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5994&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14838" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T23:53:35.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20543" CreationDate="2017-07-05T01:16:39.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt; unless the 25' is the maximum submerged surface area possible. Even then a 50' half submerged would only function as 25' anyways. &lt;strong&gt;Half the length of tubing would never be twice as effecient of a tubing with same diameter and liner surface area.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you will have as much submerged surface area as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said.  If the temperature of the coolant exiting to coil is the same as the wort then it's accepting 100% heat transfer. This is what we all shoot for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to achieve 100% efficiency has many factors. Coolant temp, coolant velocity, coolant thermal exchange, thermal exchange of the tubing, and the thermal differential of wort and coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diameter and shape can drasically change heat transfer and the amount of coolant it can move. For example 1/2 convoluted tube has much more transfer than regular tubing, but slightly less total volume capacity at the same pressures. 1/4 inch tube opposed to 1/2 inch will reach 100% thermal exchange in half the length of tubing but at the cost of 50% the coolant volume being able to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finally&lt;/strong&gt; All brew systems, coolant temps &amp;amp; flow rates are different.  The more coolant flow and coolant wort temp differential have up to the point of coolant exit temp = kettle wort temp the better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to say that 25'f v 50'f is better, may be the case on some systems. Use the basics if provided and make your own conclutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-07-05T01:29:21.603" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T01:29:21.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20544" CreationDate="2017-07-05T01:25:28.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;Adding more cell count to the wash will reduce fermentation time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its possible to skip growth phase lag with a full pitch of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T01:25:28.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20544" CreationDate="2017-07-05T08:31:41.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;17 lbs (nearly 8Kg) of sugar in 5 gallons (24L) of water will be near the top end of what most yeasts can handle. And many &quot;bakers yeasts&quot; are not really a high attenuation and high alcohol strain. It may be that the planned fermentation will stick or even never start when such a high sugar concentration and &quot;bakers yeast&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be a better strategy to use an high alcohol yeast (eg Champagne or even a &quot;Turbo yeast&quot;) and/or make a number of additions of sugar as the fermentation progresses. At the proposed strength it may well be better to use dextrose/glucose (brewing sugar) rather than sucrose (table sugar). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T08:31:41.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20554" CreationDate="2017-07-05T12:54:51.303" Score="2" ViewCount="1986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing for the first time. It is a Chinook IPA. The yeast that came with the kit is Safale US-05. I brewed and pitched it on July 4th in the afternoon. The primary fermentation time is 2 weeks as per instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though the instructions have a temperature range mentioned against the yeast -  I didn't realize that this is the ambient temperature range I need to maintain while fermentation takes place. I learnt later in the night that it's better to maintain a temperature between 62F and 70F and anything above 72 risks esters and off flavors. I checked the fermometer on the side of carboy in the night and it read 76F-78F. Yikes! I immediately wrapped a couple of wet shirts around the carboy and turned up my AC and that brought it down to 74-75. Then I ordered an insulation bag for the carboy into which I can put ice packs and bottles that will bring the temperature down to range I need. The bag won't arrive till tomorrow - July 6th. My question is- &#xA;1) when is the most important time for fermentation? Am I already too late? I already have a thick Krausen within 18 hours of pitching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) will bringing the temperature down now control the hot alcohol  / off flavors? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I didn't check the temperature when I pitched the yeast.  I'm quite sure it wasnt too warm because I had cooled my wort down in a water bath and added cold water to the carboy + cold water on top to bring the water level up - the tap water is quite cold even in summer where I live. I have a robust fermentation going with constant bubbles in the airlock and a 1.5 inch krausen already. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15187" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T15:46:58.063" Title="Higher temperature during first two days after pitching yeast" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|off-flavor|dry-yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20549" CreationDate="2017-07-05T14:47:09.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most &quot;important&quot; time for fermentation is probably while it is happening. The yeast produces and consumes things over the course of the fermenting so IMHO their is no particular &quot;important&quot; point &lt;em&gt;per se&lt;/em&gt;. The first few days are often considered &quot;important&quot; because (given the right conditions) a lot of of the fermentation can take place then. Some brewers advise that some beers are completely fermented in 4 days. Others often wait a bit longer (I myself prefer to wait 14 days before racking). It also depends on the amount of yeast pitched and the amount of wort aeration/oxygenation. Yeast tends to &quot;grow&quot; in the presence of oxygen and produces alcohol when there is no (or &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; little) oxygen present. If there is only a little yeast present (ie. the brew is under pitched) then the fermentation will tend to take longer. In such a case the first few days are not so critical. However fermenting for any prolonged time (over a day?) at higher temperatures will usually have an effect on flavour. Not necessarily a bad one - but a different one. This is usually subtle unless a long time is spent at higher temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooling the fermentation after 2 days at higher temps will IMHO help lower ester production and stop the brew becoming &quot;very fruity&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO the beer should be allowed to continue fermenting and then bottled. I would presume (all other things being equal) that after a month or two in the bottle (conditioning/ageing) it will be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T14:47:09.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="555" CreationDate="2017-07-05T14:56:56.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2  reasons Oxyclean is not a good sanitizer option. We need to look at ingredients before I discuss these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sodium Carbonate - good cleaner, zero sanitizer, &#xA;Sodium Bicarbonate - good for baking (Baking Soda), &#xA;Sodium Percarbonate - good cleaner, fair sanitizer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxyclean contains both Sodium Carbonate and Sodium Percarbonate. The main difference between the two is Sodium Percarbonate is essentially Sodium Carbonate that contains hydrogen peroxide released when dissolved in water, and hydrogen peroxide is a sanitizer. So technically speaking, Oxyclean is a sanitizer, but, because Sodium Percarbonate is not the sole ingredient, and because Sodium Percarbonate then only releases small amounts of hydrogen peroxide anyway, and then hydrogen peroxide requires longer contact times with germs to kill them (far more than bleach and other acid based killers), Oxyclean should not be relied upon as a sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a tip: If you want to make Oxyclean an even better beer scum cleaner, add a small amount of Phosphate free TSP. I use Savogran in the green box. You will essentially have PBW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15188" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T14:56:56.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20549" CreationDate="2017-07-05T15:26:53.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreed. You have little to worry about. Furthermore, Safale US-05 is an outstanding yeast with high tolerance for warmer temps. And because you did not hydrate the yeast first (or did not reveal you did) that delays the first phase of yeast fermentation. I live in very hot temps and often do ales with 05 at 76-78 through the entire fermentation no problem. It is my favorite clean ale yeast. You're fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15189" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T15:26:53.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="694" CreationDate="2017-07-05T15:37:41.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been brewing for 30 years and have never used anything but dry yeast and have never done anything different than sprinkle it into the cooled wort. I gently agitate after adding the yeast to help disperse clumps, but these would dissolve eventually anyway. I prefer to avoid steps like hydrating dry yeast that I feel are unnecessary and may only increase the chance of infection even if only a small chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contend that most manufacturers recommend hydration because it will set off the yeast slightly sooner, and that seems to be an accepted benchmark for judging the quality of yeast, valid or not.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15189" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T15:37:41.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20549" CreationDate="2017-07-05T15:46:58.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like it was warm in growth phase which is the time esters are mostly produced. &lt;strong&gt;This is bad but may not be too terrible at this point.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High heat during feeding phase (where your at now) will produce fusel alcohols ranging from a little more heat in mouth feel to smelling like paint thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What now? Try to keep it in the recommended temp range untill fermentation is almost done. Once the krausen has fallen back in and your within .005 points of of FG. &lt;strong&gt;Then get it warm&lt;/strong&gt; even a couple degrees above recommended temp. This will make it easier for the yeast to clean up the esters produced in growth phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T15:46:58.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2017-07-05T17:23:06.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For lighter beers I usually try to store as many in the fridge as possible because the longer fridge time will help them clarify in the bottle before you open them (if that is pertinent to the style and/or important to you). Of course this is after at least 2 weeks of priming time outside the fridge at about 70 degs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also had some brews that maybe I bottled too early or otherwise I noticed they were overcarbonated or had a bottle explode. For these types I would definitely rush them all into the fridge to stop the yeast from carbonating any further. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11931" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T17:23:06.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20543" CreationDate="2017-07-06T01:16:21.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory yes, but for most if not all homebrewers it's technically not feasible. Why? The total heat exchange, in this case, is a sum of heat exchanged by conduction and convection. The conduction part, roughly saying, is only a function of coil material , temperature difference between the surface and the bulk fluid (dT), surface area and specific heat coefficient of the liquid flowing through the chiller. The convection portion is a function of surface area, dT and convective heat transfer coefficient. The last one is a function of velocity (m/s) of the liquid.&#xA;So, increasing the velocity of the liquid being pumped through the chiller will increase the transfer of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In real life :) @Evil Zymurgist already answered it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your second question I would say that there will be an optimal length for each dT, if we keep the flow inside the chiller constant. Since we can´t change the length of the chiller for every temperature drop, the alternative would be to control the velocity of the liquid being pumped through the chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, I try to keep the dT as big as possible and slowly move the chiller in the hot wort (increasing the convection portion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T01:16:21.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-06T10:20:19.537" Score="8" ViewCount="962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started home brewing about 2 years ago with extract kits and now getting a little more involve with acquiring additional tools of the trade. I know how important checking the gravity is, but I have a some what silly question regarding refractometers. I am also a saltwater aquarium hobbyist so I use a refactometer to check the salinity in the water, which is testing the gravity. The question, is the refractometer used in home brewing the same as one used for saltwater or is the measuring scale different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15193" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2017-07-06T11:01:57.573" LastActivityDate="2017-07-07T19:51:59.730" Title="Using Refractometer" Tags="|gravity-reading|refractometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20557" CreationDate="2017-07-06T10:31:10.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The scales are different. The refractometer works on the principle that when a  ray of light crosses a boundary (in this case into a fluid), the material refracts the ray under a certain angle. This is expressed as a number called the refractive index. This index changes depending upon the material. The refractive index of salt water is different from that of wort (water + sugars), and also that of beer (water with less sugar and more alcohol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T10:31:10.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20557" CreationDate="2017-07-06T12:10:03.137" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They are different&lt;/strong&gt; but only in the scale the refraction is interpreted.&#xA;You can get refractometers with various scales. Specific Gravity, brix, plato, ppm/ppt (saline).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is a very good question because refractometers don't just read sugar.&lt;/strong&gt; Anything that affects light refraction will affect the reading. This includes water chemistry adjucts! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is important because if your brew water has say 1000ppm of ions. It will skew the reading by about .0029&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example sea water with about 10,000ppm salt, reads 1.029 specific gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's best practice to take a baseline reading of your brew water, and subtract it from your wort gravity. Don't forget to account for boil off concentration. IE if you boil off 10% wort volume add 10% to the baseline reading before subtracting from your wort gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Right about now everyone is realizing that their ABV and attenuation calcs on that Gose was wrong.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: hydrometers are also affected by salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2017-07-07T19:51:59.730" LastActivityDate="2017-07-07T19:51:59.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20557" CreationDate="2017-07-06T12:36:13.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refractometer are commonly used to measure sugar in grapes before picking them up to make wine, you need less liquid to get a measurement.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less common in homebrewing, but also used, just make sure it has the right scale, but you can convert the value from Plato or Brix scale to SG as well. Other scales? Maybe not...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refractometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refractometer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T12:36:13.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20543" CreationDate="2017-07-07T14:04:32.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summary: Immersion chillers have diminishing returns on length. The first foot of tube does more work than any other foot of tube. The last foot does the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An immersion chiller is a specific example of a device called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_exchanger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heat exchanger&lt;/a&gt;. As an engineer I took classes in heat transfer and heat exchanger design. Although I can explain exactly why counterflow heat exchangers are far more efficient than immersion chillers, I have yet to build one of my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The immersion chiller transfers heat from your wort to the water flowing through it. The image shows cold water entering an immersion chiller at the top. As it flows through the tubes it heats up and hot water leaves from the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aaTv8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aaTv8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stole the image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.comsol.com/blogs/improving-beer-brewing-process-simulation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;someone&lt;/a&gt; who did way too many pointless simulations about beer brewing. He doesn't explain exactly how they work, and I think he got a few details wrong. Because the rate of heat transfer between the wort and the water is proportional to the difference in temperature between them, the cold water at the top of the chiller is transferring heat more quickly than the hot water at the bottom. Therefore the difference between water and wort temperature follows a exponential decay as it travels through the chiller. The closer the temperatures are when the water exits the chiller, the more efficient your chiller is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The graph shows an example of what this might look like for a hypothetical 100 foot chiller. The cold water enters at 60 degrees and heats up to the temperature of the boiling wort as it travels through the chiller. The form of the equation is correct, but I basically just made up numbers as examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sbajw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sbajw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest change in temperature is in the first 25 feet of the chiller. The second 25 feet is useful, but not as much as the first 25. The last 50 feet are not particularly useful. I have a 25 foot immersion chiller. My chiller water exits the chiller significantly cooler than the wort, but hot enough to get the job done. If I had a 50 foot chiller, it would come out slightly cooler than the wort. If I had a hundred foot chiller, I would be wasting my money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an immersion chiller length is not the only factor. More water can flow through a larger diameter pipe, but the heat transferred per unit of water is lower. This generally means you cool your wort quicker, but you use more water. Convoluted piping has slightly more resistance to water flow, but considerably better heat transfer. Usually this is a net win. Running a coiled wire inside your tube is a poor mans way of getting the effects of convolution. Stirring your wort continually while the chiller is running can improve your efficiency, but also means you will have more trub in your fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A counterflow heat exchanger is the most efficient type of exchanger. This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quora.com/Why-is-a-counter-flow-heat-exchanger-better-than-a-parallel-flow-heat-exchanger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quora answer&lt;/a&gt; does a pretty good job explaining why. I recently switched to all grain brewing, which requires a full boil, and therefore more cooling power. My next project is to convert the copper tube I call an immersion chiller into a counter flow heat exchanger. When I priced out all of the fittings and tools, I found it would be a little more expensive than buying another 25 feet of copper pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14166" LastEditorUserId="14166" LastEditDate="2017-07-07T16:31:17.260" LastActivityDate="2017-07-07T16:31:17.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-07T19:22:41.190" Score="0" ViewCount="583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have quite enough &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Belgian-Dark-Candi-Sugar-Syrup-Liquid.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Belgian Dark Candi Sugar Syrup&lt;/a&gt; for a recipe, can I replace a quantity of it with Treacle?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have both &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_syrup&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;golden syrup&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lylesgoldensyrup.com/our-range/our-classic-tin/product-black-treacle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;black treacle&lt;/a&gt; available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12945" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T08:01:59.547" Title="Can I replace D-180 Candi Syrup with Treacle?" Tags="|sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-07T19:28:26.397" Score="2" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done a few kettle sours and in some cases, a wild yeast or heterofermentative bacteria ferments out quite a bit of the sugars. In the past, I've used DME to bring the gravity back up for the boil, but it would be good to have the option of just skipping the boil, however, there's way too much DMS in the wort at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T16:45:10.497" Title="Is there a bacteria that eats/reduces DMS?" Tags="|sour|dms|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21654" CreationDate="2017-07-07T22:07:51.507" Score="1" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottled then right to refrigerator. What can I expect? Been in the fridge for about 2weeks.Is the Beer lost?Can I remove it now or is it to late?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T08:14:23.553" Title="I went from bottling to refridge" Tags="|carbonation|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21596" CreationDate="2017-07-07T23:38:04.897" Score="10" ViewCount="8188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to use recycled Corona bottles to pack some juice I'm producing, but to put my own logo on these bottles, I want to remove the original printed brand. In my city, and even in my whole country there are no recycling plants so there is basically nowhere to get help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using paint thinner, paint remover, acetone, and brushing, only the last one worked but the bottle was unusable after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TtXAw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TtXAw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;corona bottle to be cleaned&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15200" LastEditorUserId="15200" LastEditDate="2022-12-29T12:30:23.093" LastActivityDate="2024-02-11T03:31:53.493" Title="How to remove Corona bottle printing (screen printed label)" Tags="|bottle|packaging|glass|reuse|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-08T01:36:00.560" Score="3" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I properly use a hydrometer? How much unfermented wort do I put in the vial to get a good original gravity, possible alcohol by volume reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2017-07-08T22:18:37.997" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T22:18:37.997" Title="How to use the hydrometer?" Tags="|carbonation|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20562" CreationDate="2017-07-08T10:41:04.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One could always make up a solution of various sugars to make ones own syrup. or one could mix golden syrup and dark molasses/treacle to make a custom Candy syrup near equivalent mix. Some brewers warn against using too much treacle as it can impart a &quot;licorice&quot; flavour. Personally I prefer to use maple syrup as it gives a nice, slightly caramel flavour to the brew.&#xA;However the precise answer depends on what style of beer one wants to brew. Some styles are more demanding than others, but I have never found any sugar syrup produce a bad brew. IMHO syrups tend to increase the ABV but not affect the final brew flavour to any great extent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-07-08T10:47:08.990" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T10:47:08.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20564" CreationDate="2017-07-08T10:46:23.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not too late. In fact the bottles will condition/carbonate in a fridge (5°C) quite well but will take somewhat longer to do so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try taking the bottles out of the refrigerator and leaving them for (say) two weeks in a warm (room temperature/20°C) place. One can shake the bottles to disperse any settled yeast if one wishes to. That should rouse the yeast from any slumber and allow bottle conditioning to proceed at full speed. After that time the bottles can still be left out of the fridge to age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally recommend bottle conditioning/ageing for at last a month if not more. Obviously, the bottles can be returned to the fridge before drinking!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-10T12:34:58.023" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T12:34:58.023" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20566" CreationDate="2017-07-08T11:04:17.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hydrometer must be able to float freely with a little free space under the bottom of the bulb.This is often done using a &quot;test jar&quot; (vial) which is a tall thin vessel that just takes the hydrometer with a small (eg. 1cm) gap each side. The side clearance must not be too small or surface tension effects may come into play.  The jar is filled from the brew vessel and the sample usually discarded after use. The test jar is usually glass or plastic and so the float level can be easily observed through the sides of the test jar. Remember to take the reading from the normal level of the liquid and not from the top of the &quot;meniscus&quot; of liquid that &quot;curves&quot; up the side of the hydrometer stem. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beerlab.co.za/blogs/news/14054181-it-floats-a-practical-guide-to-using-your-hydrometer-effectively&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;An example here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many brewers just steralise their hydrometer with very hot water, cool with tap water and put the hydrometer directly in the fermentation vessel. It can be more difficult to read accurately but as a general method it does work. It also saves beer if many readings are taken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T11:04:17.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20566" CreationDate="2017-07-08T13:25:21.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a 100ml Pyrex graduated cylinder. Usually only needs 80ml or so. The plastic tube they come in works good too and uses only 40ml or so. &lt;strong&gt;Hydrometer only needs enough volume to float.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tips:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get a good one!&lt;/strong&gt; One with built in thermometer is very useful. Make sure yours reads 1.000 with distilled water. If not, note and adjust the offset to all readings taken when used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Let the wort cool&lt;/strong&gt; to the optimal temp for your hydrometer, usually 70°F to avoid having to do temp calibrations correct readings. All hydrometers are different follow the data sheet included with your hydrometer. Some are even as low as 50-60°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Decarb finished beer for reading.&lt;/strong&gt;  Let it stand so there's no bubbles attached to hydrometer and foam on top falls in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Read from the lowest level&lt;/strong&gt; of the solution surface not the top of the solution that creeps up on walls and hydrometer. From meniscus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spin the hydrometer&lt;/strong&gt; to free bubbles and center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not add test sample back to the beer!&lt;/strong&gt; Many will say you can sanitize the test vessel and hydrometer  and return it. IMO it's not worth the risk and hassle, just keep your tools rinse clean and discard samples. (pre boil wort you can toss back into the boil with no problem)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Baseline&lt;/strong&gt;. Compare brew water readings with distilled and adjust further readings accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upgrade.&lt;/strong&gt; There's a better tool for prefermentation gravity readings and only uses a few drops of wort. Buy a refractometer, you won't regret the purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-07-08T13:30:23.167" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T13:30:23.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20565" CreationDate="2017-07-08T13:37:56.747" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Soak in StarSan.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix starsan as you would normally. Submerge bottles and soak for a day or so. Use a stainless steel scrubber (ball of stainless steel for cleaning pots/pans) to scrub off the paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this on 100's of bottles. It's really effortless with the scrubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Side note&lt;/em&gt; I wouldn't recommend clear bottles for beer or anything hopped. (skunking from light) But they do work good for ciders and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T13:37:56.747" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20563" CreationDate="2017-07-08T14:13:29.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there are sulphate-reducing bacteria. These are mostly found in marine biology. I don't know of any of these bacterium useful in brewing though (maybe just ignorant). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case DME will have low SMM and DMS, because it has already been mostly boiled out in proccesing. Though I would still do a short boil 5min boil and chill for sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fun Facts&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;Some yeast can convert DMSO into DMS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DMS can be scrubbed with cO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DMS can be perseived with at very low levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DMS at high levels can smell and taste like shrimp / seafood water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DMS has half life of 40 minutes at it's boil temp (99 21°F) so a 90 minute boil or wort usually is enough to get the levels below the detection threshold of most palets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once DMS turns into DMSO it can't be boiled off. Its boil temp is &gt; than waters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-07-08T16:45:10.497" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T16:45:10.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="680" CreationDate="2017-07-08T20:16:55.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, the Dew taste was gone because without sweetness, MD tastes like unripened grapefruit juice. Any corn syrup in the MD was converted to alcohol, so you did not get any sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the preservatives, as stated above are going to affect your yeast. That's why the preservatives are ' n there, to keep it from being affected by spoilers, such as yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here's what you can do...as stated above, add Everclear to MD. But, I suspect you want a Mountain Dew Brew. So, make it like you did, by the way, adding sugar was a good move if the MD refused to let the yeast convert its syrup. But, after brewing it, mix it with new Dew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing. If you can get imported Mexican Mountain Dew, use it. It is made with real sugar instead of corn syrup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15204" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T20:16:55.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20440" CreationDate="2017-07-08T20:38:43.040" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After conditioning for 2weeks at room temperature. Then put in the refrigerator for another 2week. That should help clear it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T20:38:43.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-08T21:57:13.040" Score="1" ViewCount="487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a 6 gallon Mexican ale, it was just after the high krusen phase. The Carboy was in the garage. Temperature outside was between 70&amp;amp;80 degrees. Brought it inside. Put some yeast believe just the regular beer yeast in the Carboy with a cup of sugar. In the room I placed it was the normal brew temperatures. Was any damage done to the Beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T22:05:30.257" Title="Can you add more yeast and sugar" Tags="|carbonation|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21576" CreationDate="2017-07-08T22:05:30.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only &quot;damage&quot; would be from the high temp you had during fermentation. Fusel alcohols, undesirable esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding more yeast and sugar will only get it fermenting again and raise the ABV up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T22:05:30.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-08T23:49:40.750" Score="2" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it good to use Irish moss, if I'm using a beer kit to brew beer. The research I've done says I should add it to last 10 minutes of the boil. Does anyone know any different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T08:58:44.887" Title="Is it good to use Irish Moss" Tags="|carbonation|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21581" CreationDate="2017-07-09T00:12:45.497" Score="2" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a package of Clarity Ferm with 2 dates stamped in ink on the back of the package:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;NOV 11 2016    JUL 22 2017&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought it from an online retailer about 4 months ago (March 2017).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what to think about the dates?  Should I use it by JUL 22?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T10:38:33.430" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T10:38:33.430" Title="Clarity Ferm Date Stamp" Tags="|brewing-enzymes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21578" CreationDate="2017-07-09T00:42:24.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Irish moss / whirlflocs go in the last few minutes of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they do little to benifiet a beer unless you whirlpool and leave it behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All too often I see homebrewers use these finings and transfer them to the fermentor and waste beer in fluffed up trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T00:42:24.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21579" CreationDate="2017-07-09T00:48:25.587" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clarity ferm is an enzyme to help reduce chill haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dates are production date and use by date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it's an enzyme it may not be stable and breaks down or denatures over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using it past the use by date won't harm the beer. But it may not work if there's no enzyme left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T00:48:25.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21578" CreationDate="2017-07-09T08:58:44.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends on the type of beer kit being used. Some are based on malt extract and some are based on grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the kit is &quot;all grain&quot; based then the Irish Moss can be added as recommended above/elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;, beer &quot;kits&quot; are usually based on canned malt extract, although some kits provide dried malt extract. If that is the case then the use of Irish moss or protofloc/etc is IMHO &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; required. The &quot;mashing&quot; operation has been done at the factory and the brew will clear well on its own. I might add that if the kit is a canned extract kit then IMHO boiling is not required at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T08:58:44.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21598" CreationDate="2017-07-09T15:01:55.983" Score="2" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per this recipe for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=500037&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Belgian Dark Strong Ale&lt;/a&gt;, I'm brewing a beer where it's suggested you take a portion of the pre-boil wort, and boil it down separately to create a syrup to add back to the main wort later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this, how should I calculate my pre-boil volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) Use the same pre-boil volume as usual, but take a portion of this to boil into a syrup&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) Create a larger than usual pre-boil volume, to cater for the amount I take away&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) Just add some boiled top-up water at the end to compensate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;d) Something else&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I all-grain BIAB, and would need 9.75L (90 min) pre-boil wort for a desired post-boil vol of 6L &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12945" LastEditorUserId="12945" LastEditDate="2017-07-09T15:11:54.170" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T03:28:56.510" Title="Pre-boil volume when doing a separate boil-down" Tags="|boil|biab|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21585" CreationDate="2017-07-09T15:56:33.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I do a boil down, I add water at the end if needed.  But I care more about boiling to gravity than volume.  Keep in mind that your gravity will not change due to the boil down.  You're boilng off water, not sugar, so when you return the boiled portion your gravity will be the same overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T15:56:33.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3838" CreationDate="2017-07-10T07:11:51.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the kit was a brown ale &lt;em&gt;EXTRACT KIT&lt;/em&gt; then one has to wonder why Irish moss was used at all. Irish moss is normally used to clear protein coagulate from all grain mashes/worts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T07:11:51.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20562" CreationDate="2017-07-10T08:01:59.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The D-180 not only adds sugar, but also colour by way of dark caramel. If you replace this with golden syrup , then you will get the sugar, but not the colour. If you would use the same amount of black treacle then you will indeed have the liquorice taste (which you might or might not like). Even using an amount of dark Belgian sugar (like from Tienen or Graeffe) gives a liquorice taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T08:01:59.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6566" CreationDate="2017-07-10T08:52:03.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Love Schweppes Bitter Lemon. I know it's not sold widely in the US, but is in the UK and Australia (where I am). I make a cordial of 5 lemons cut up, simmered with a cup of sugar (or stevia(I'm diabetic)) and a litre of water for 30 mins. I drink it six to one with tonic and a splash of vodka. Yum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I make my own cider every year, I thought about fermenting all the lemons I grow every year.. Then I heard of Sima and concocted this recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 kg lemons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 kg sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water to 36 litres (the size of my fermenter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 3 batches in a 12L stockpot, simmer &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a third of the chopped up lemons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 kg of sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water to fill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for 1/2 hour. Cool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fish the lemons out with a sieve. Add 1 level teaspoon of baking powder (edit: this is probably to decrease the acidity). Add to fermenter. On the last batch, add the lemon mix hot so that the fermenter is ~ 22-28°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix 1 packet of Lalvin EC-1118 in a half glass of 40°C hot water and a teaspoon of Sugar. Wait till it foams and pitch. Keep the fermenter at 23°C. It will take up to 12 for CO2 to start bubbling because it's still quite acidic. But when it starts, it really takes off... and will for 7 or 8 day. I ferment dry (i.e., no sugar or CO2). Then I cold crash it and let settle for a few days before bottling wit a half teaspoon of sugar and stevia to taste.&#xA;It's VERY good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&#xA;Ed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15206" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-10T12:07:32.720" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T12:07:32.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21593" CreationDate="2017-07-10T12:31:50.060" Score="1" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xyIhz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xyIhz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mixed berry wine pulp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see I've got my mixed berry wine pulp. It has sugar mixed in and a liter of water. My question is: Can I use the pulp left over to make jam? Has anybody attempted this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15205" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-07-10T17:02:49.970" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T22:32:01.743" Title="Making Jam with Fruit Pulp?" Tags="|wine|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21590" CreationDate="2017-07-10T22:32:01.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an attempt at making the jam. It worked but sadly there was way too many seeds for it to be enjoyable and i don't have the equipment to remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15205" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T22:32:01.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21600" CreationDate="2017-07-10T22:53:18.253" Score="2" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if using fruits from a supermarket would make a good wine or not. At the moment I have been buying frozen berry packs which work great but I am looking to branch out into more interesting flavours. If not, where would the best place to get fresh fruit be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15205" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T16:02:36.660" Title="Will supermarket fruits make a good wine?" Tags="|wine|ingredients|fruit|fruit-wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16493" CreationDate="2017-07-10T23:10:20.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had kits that have started fermenting within four hours. I have also had kits that haven't started fermenting until the next day. It all depends on the temperature of the must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't see anything happening (No airlock activity or krausen) within 3 days then there is a high chance that the yeast hasn't got to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a beginner using a kit you probably wont have access to a hydrometer to measure the gravity. I would suggest using a second yeast and if nothing has come from that there may be another factor causing a lack of fermentation such as there being too much sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15205" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T23:10:20.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20565" CreationDate="2017-07-10T23:41:53.640" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just wanted to let you know, in case anyone else could find this useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hydrochloric acid alone worked perfectly&lt;/strong&gt;, the bottle was put into it for less than 20 minutes, and after that it was rinsed with water (almost no rubbing was needed) and everything was removed in less than 10 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTES:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-The part of paint remaining on the top, was not inside the acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-The &lt;strong&gt;bottle itself was not affected&lt;/strong&gt;. It's still shiny and without a single scratch after the proccess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-The paint doesn't disintegrate inside the acid, so &lt;strong&gt;the acid could be used multiple times&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-You should use protective equipment. And NEVER EVER mix the acid with bleach... it could kill you (literally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the result here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SX8IP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SX8IP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15200" LastEditorUserId="15200" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T13:52:11.350" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T13:52:11.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21603" CreationDate="2017-07-11T00:03:54.373" Score="3" ViewCount="2066" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to make dog biscuits with my spent grains, but it was not a big success ;-)  I read that we could make more beer reusing the grain again.  I liked the idea of making a lighter version of the beer this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I make an all grain stout, what can I expect to be able to do by reusing the grain?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Can I only add some more 2-row to a new mash to raise the OG, letting the flavor and color coming from the crystal and chocolat malt that was already mashed once?  I believe I would get something close to an amber beer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2- Or is it possible to just batch sparge again and start from there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone has tried this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T08:10:32.970" Title="About reusing spent grain" Tags="|all-grain|mash|sparge|reuse|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21585" CreationDate="2017-07-11T03:28:56.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recipe states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Recipe Specifications&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Batch Size: 5.50 gal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil Size: 7.75 gal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Estimated Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.065 SG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Estimated OG: 1.091 SG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Estimated FG: 1.006 SG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Estimated ABV: 11.4 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Estimated Color: 36.8 SRM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Estimated IBU: 37.9 IBUs (Rager)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil Time: 90 Minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Efficiency: 75.00&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The optional step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Extract 1.0 gallon of wort at the beginning of clear runoff into a 3-5 gallon pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, letter a) is the most appropriate approach is you're strictly following the recipe. But, you'll have to scale your recipe down. 1gal on the optional step is too much for your batch size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a higher OG at the end of the boiling, then add water (using a dilution calculator) as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T03:28:56.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21594" CreationDate="2017-07-11T03:55:09.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can make good &quot;wine&quot; with supermarket fruits, but as you mentioned they are not always the most fresh resource available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Local fairs are a good source of fresh fruits, etc ... Not sure if your city has regular fairs, but in these places you can find lot of good stuff and also organic fruits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I make melomel, flavored Kombucha or cider, I always buy the fruits at fairs. This is also a way to support local producers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T03:55:09.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21594" CreationDate="2017-07-11T10:40:27.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with much fresh &quot;Supermarket fruit&quot; is that it is usually picked early and is usually unripe. If one can find &quot;ripe&quot; or &quot;over ripe&quot; fruit in a supermarket then IMHO that is the fruit one really wants to use. Unfortunately such fruit has limited shelf life and so is usually difficult to find unless it has been marked down for quick sale. The most dependable supermarket source is often (as noted) frozen fruits but not every fruit freezes well, so the choice can be limited. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can use unripe fresh fruit but the neither the sugar content or the flavour is fully developed and so it can be a wasted effort to attempt to produce wine from such materials, that or it produces an inferior product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one can form a working relationship with a fruit seller (eg shop or stall at a &quot;farmers market&quot;) then it is usually possible to ask them to keep back any very ripe fruits or to buy such things when they see them at the distributor or find them on the farm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one is enterprising enough then an early morning trip to the local fruit wholesaler or wholesale market can yield some great finds of ripe fruit at even better prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main point being one needs ripe or over ripe fruit to ferment and that fruit tends to have the lowest cost. Prime but unripe fruits have a higher cost and don't ferment as well. Out of season fruits should only be used if one can find a bargain price or it is absolutely necessary to use that fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T10:40:27.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21597" CreationDate="2017-07-11T10:57:50.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow! That is economical brewing - but possibly &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; economical. There may be &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; colour and flavour left in the roast grains but there should be very little starch, malto-dextrins or sugars left in the malted grains. However there is a lot of grain husk left behind and that is a source of tannins and lignins that impart a bitter or more astringent taste to the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So one might be able to make further use of &lt;em&gt;some part&lt;/em&gt; of the steeped/mashed grain but one would necessarily have to add more malted grain and one runs the risk of making a strangely flavoured and astringent beer. As the only reusable part (roast grains) are relatively cheap there is little to be saved and lot of effort to be used to make a possibly inferior brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO it would be better to attempt to make more efficient use of the roast grain in the first steeping/mashing process than to attempt to make use of any remainder in a second processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T10:57:50.613" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3813" CreationDate="2017-07-11T11:19:54.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes. As long as the carboy is sterilized you will have no problems using it to make beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15205" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T11:19:54.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21597" CreationDate="2017-07-11T13:35:19.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use second runnings / &lt;em&gt;Parti-Gyle&lt;/em&gt; as often as I can. But as my primary mash efficiency rises theres less and less usefulness in the parti-gyle. As for me using the grains, it's compost or given away for chicken feed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your mash efficiency is still below 85% there's still plenty use in the parti-gyle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could usually get 5 gallons of 1.025-1.030 parti-gyle wort from a 12 gallon high gravity primary brew mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slow Fly sparge for primary keeping mash water 1inch above grain. When primary beer is done sparging, stop the fly, stir and let the parti-gyle rest. When done with your primary boil, then batch sparge the parti-gyle wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Uses:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Anything bellow 1.020 isn't very useful by its self. Most uses require adding a little DME, grain steep or sugar to bump it to the range you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parti-gyle wort is low gravity and has many historical style uses like scottish-60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's great for starter wort. I boil and adjust to 1.040, Then refrigerate and strore in 1 gallon jugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's great for malted ciders /light graffs, I find it even eliminates need to backsweeten. Especially if you steep in malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't mash out instead keep sparge around 154°, if you intend to allow the second mash to rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a little more grain to second mash helps kick start a second conversion rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add adjuncts to boost gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil down to increase gravity. Usually pretty easy to get a fast violent boil since its usually 1/2 your normal volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Press the grains as the parti-gyle volaufs. I use a potato masher, works pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all how useful your parti-gyle is depends on a lot of factors and what its used for. I've only touched on the processes and uses as an overview.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T13:35:19.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3813" CreationDate="2017-07-11T20:32:28.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can use Glass Carboys. Like almost everyone else has stated. Priority is sanitation. I would recommend like with Beer use Dark bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T20:32:28.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18907" CreationDate="2017-07-11T23:07:43.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend instead of watering down. Make a10 gallon batch. Then use 2 carboys.Pitch 2 separate yeast batches. I think that's the safest way to save the integrity of the Beer. For me the integrity of the Beer is the top priority for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T23:07:43.693" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2017-07-11T23:07:43.693" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18975" CreationDate="2017-07-11T23:52:27.903" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 schools of thought, one is to sprinkle over the top of the wort.&#xA;The other is to stir then add the yeast.&#xA;For me I like stirring because it get's air to  wort and the Suger to the yeast quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T23:52:27.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-12T00:41:45.230" Score="2" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;My thought process is to get fermentation started, then once the first two days of fermentation has completed. Filling a cooler with ice and water. Then submerge the little Brown Keg (Mr Beer Keg). To keep it at the Lagering  temperatures. Any more advice is very appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastEditorUserId="12043" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T13:04:09.447" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T13:04:09.447" Title="Think about doing a Lager" Tags="|techniques|fermentation-temperature|secondary-fermentation|lagering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18975" CreationDate="2017-07-12T05:49:00.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely do NOT stir it in.  You'll re-oxygenate the wort and get weird flavours going on and there's no benefit anyway.  it's top fermenting yeast so it's supposed to be on top and will sink at the end.  To be honest though I'm surprised it's taking so long even with dry yeast.  I did a Mangrove Jack's Mr Simcoe recipe pack in my Grainfather and that dry yeast took about 5 days to start bubbling and finished about three weeks after that for a single so maybe it's just a dry yeast thing.  For my own double IPA I use liquid WYeast 1056 with a starter which starts bubbling after about 5 hours and finished ferm in 5 days every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14219" LastActivityDate="2017-07-12T05:49:00.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21611" CreationDate="2017-07-12T13:46:40.897" Score="2" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently only making wine in one gallon quantities but I am looking at increasing that. As a beginner is there more room for making a bad wine if there is more of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15205" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-20T14:03:33.200" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T14:03:33.200" Title="If you make wine in higher quantities, is there a higher chance of contamination?" Tags="|wine|contamination|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21610" CreationDate="2017-07-12T14:38:49.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, the process is the same.&lt;/strong&gt; If you sanitize everything correctly, you do not have more chances of spoilage, it will only take more time to rack and bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have the right size container (carboy or demi-john) to avoid having too much air in the head space.  If your carboy is under-filled, instead of topping up with (another) wine, you can also use sanitized marbles to raise the level of the must and reduce the amount of air in the carboy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-07-12T14:38:49.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21608" CreationDate="2017-07-13T00:29:02.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the Mr. Beer is a 1 gallon size and fits in most fridges nice. However most fridges work between 35-45°. Your target range for lagering is 48-54°F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;With out electronic temp control, you will literally need to babysit the fermentation.&lt;/strong&gt; But you may be able to pull it off with a simple temp strip on the fermentor.  By placing it in and out of the fridge every few hours, but don't let it warm up past 58°. Getting too cold really won't harm the beer, it will just slow down the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a lot of work for so little beer. &lt;em&gt;I would suggest sticking to ales until you expand your homebrewing more.&lt;/em&gt; Usually lagering is one of the last styles homebrewers perfect, because of the need for critical temp control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T00:29:02.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21614" CreationDate="2017-07-13T00:53:22.583" Score="2" ViewCount="824" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making mead for while and have spotted some spots of crystallized honey occasionally. Today I started another one and realized that I got ~1kg of crystallized honey (16.66....% of total). I tasted it and have found no off flavor. Is there any risk? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T01:22:02.837" Title="Should I avoid crystallized honey when making mead?" Tags="|mead|spoilage|honey-type|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21613" CreationDate="2017-07-13T01:22:02.837" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not quite an expert on beer making, but I have made honey ales a few times and was a beekeeper for about 8 years, so I have some honey knowledge. The crystallized honey is no different from normal honey. You can decrystallize it by suspending its container in warm water. This should make it a normal honey texture again, and it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15213" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T01:22:02.837" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21620" CreationDate="2017-07-13T07:43:48.427" Score="3" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to White and Zainasheff: &lt;em&gt;Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation&#xA;By Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff&lt;/em&gt;, wort should have 10 mg/L (10 ppm) with dissolved oxygen before pitching. This means that the initial metabolism will be aerobic. Aerobic metabolism of sugar yields no alcohol, but still reduces the gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: how much gravity is lost to aerobic metabolism due to 10 ppm oxygen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15214" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T18:52:51.820" Title="How much will initial oxygen in wort affect final alcohol in beer?" Tags="|wort|specific-gravity|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2017-07-13T08:01:43.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you using hop-bags? You should stop using hop-bags. I had the same problem. I significantly increased my hop aroma and taste by skipping the hop-bags. Hop pellets will swell around 60 times in volume, and a hop-bag with too much hops, will not allow the hop to swell fully. The result will be that very much of the hop oils never will be released into the boiling wort, but trapped inside the hop in the bag.  By changing to a hop spider during boil, my problem was solved, and my IPAs had a lot of hop taste and aroma. For dry hopping, use no more than 50 grams in one hop-bag, and use a stone or something heavy inside to make it sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15214" LastEditorUserId="15214" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T10:39:09.420" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T10:39:09.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-13T09:21:51.663" Score="2" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rather concrete issue for those of you well versed in the chemical sciences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The situation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know for a fact that most of the bottles I am using have been contaminated on the inside with vegetable oil during label removal. In retrospect, my situation could have been easily prevented, but in the mean time I do have hundreds of sub-optimal bottles that I badly want to use. I want to dissolve and remove the fat to make the bottles usable again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is fat dissolution possible while retaining the integrity of the glassware? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which detergents or chemicals should i use, and what is their actual effect?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13277" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T13:00:02.050" Title="Fat residues on bottles or glasses, causing bad head retension: how to dissolve and remove it?" Tags="|cleaning|bottles|head-retention|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21617" CreationDate="2017-07-13T10:46:47.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using a citric acid based cleaner to attempt to dissolve the fat. Leave it for a day or two and use a bottle brush to scrub the rest away&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15205" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T10:46:47.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21617" CreationDate="2017-07-13T11:04:58.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What not use a commercial brewing steriliser/cleaner like VWP? Soak in a solution made with very hot water overnight. One might find that all that is needed thereafter is a rinse with fresh water and drain dry. If necessary a scrub with a bottle brush should complete the job.&#xA;Specifically, &#xA;1) It should be easy to get rid of the fat/oil without compromising the glassware&#xA;2) A VPW is a good cleaning/degreasing agent that loosens and solvates fats and oils and it also is a source of chlorine that will sterilise the bottle at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it may not be that the oily residue is causing the lack of head retention. That can be due to a myriad of reasons but hopefully using some VWP will indicate if the bottle contaminants are the cause. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T11:04:58.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21615" CreationDate="2017-07-13T11:47:46.570" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;This means that the initial metabolism will be aerobic. Aerobic metabolism of sugar yields no alcohol, but still reduces the gravity.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, actually this isn't true in virtually all fermentation situations involving &lt;em&gt;Saccharomyces&lt;/em&gt; yeasts. &lt;em&gt;S. cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt; is what is known as Crabtree-positive, i.e. it experiences the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crabtree_effect&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crabtree effect&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is that, at glucose levels above somewhere around 0.1-0.2%, purely oxidative physiology (respiration) is overridden and the yeast produces ethanol and carbon dioxide &lt;em&gt;regardless&lt;/em&gt; of the presence of oxygen. For comparison, you could expect to find glucose levels of roughly 1% in any wort you might try to ferment. By the time this glucose is utilized and this repression of respiration is lifted, all oxygen will long since have been taken up, ensuring anaerobic conditions for the rest of the fermentation (hopefully).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, oxygenation can have an effect on alcohol production that is completely unrelated to this. Higher levels of initial oxygen may lead to over-production of yeast biomass (high levels of yeast growth). In this situation energy derived from sugar is diverted &lt;strong&gt;away&lt;/strong&gt; from the alcohol-producing metabolic pathways &lt;strong&gt;towards&lt;/strong&gt; biosynthetic metabolism. So sugar that would otherwise have been utilized for ethanol production instead goes to making new yeast. In some situations this can reduce the effciency of a fermentation (from an ethanol yield standpoint). In reality it's not likely to be any kind of issue for homebrewers, though, and so isn't much to worry about. It is the kind of thing that very big breweries may worry about though, as small changes in efficiency can lead to very large costs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T11:47:46.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21617" CreationDate="2017-07-13T12:38:48.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start with a mild dish washing soap with warm water, it usually gets rid of grease and oils.  If you have a bottle brush, use it, if not shake the bottles well.  Then rince the bottles well. If the glass bottles fit in your dishwasher, you can also give them a wash there first (glass only, not PET).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't work, then I would look for a stronger product, but this should be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T13:00:02.050" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T13:00:02.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18907" CreationDate="2017-07-13T13:41:17.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Liquoring back can also be used to control the OG in your brews if you have overshot your FG then adding a little liquor to the finished wort is a widely accepted practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To expand the volume I would follow uSlackr's advise and not go beyond 30% to extend your brew length, as you don't maintain the quality of the brew much beyond this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not liquor back with distilled water, that is an unnecessary expense, you can liquor back perfectly well with boiled and cooled water, the boiling drives off the chlorine, and drops out excess carbonates, but retains some of the trace minerals that your yeast needs as micro-nutrients. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a calculator to help with this:&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewheads.com/newvolume.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.brewheads.com/newvolume.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T13:41:17.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21615" CreationDate="2017-07-13T13:52:02.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As FranklinPC rightly points out very little will go into aerobic respiration, some will as the TCA cycle is not shutdown, but it is trivial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly the 10ppm of O2 is there to ensure that the yeast has sufficient oxygen to produce sterols for incorporation into the cell membranes. These are needed to ensure the cell membrane functions correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kotmf.com/articles/oliveoil.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hull et al&lt;/a&gt;, carried out an interesting experiment substituting Olive Oil for Oxygenation of the wort. As Olive Oil is high in the precursors for the sterol synthesis pathways that would be the main consumer of O2 in a fermentation situation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T13:52:02.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-13T14:43:51.507" Score="3" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;Working with a 1.060 original gravity wort, mashed at 152F, and using the WLP565 Dupont yeast (that is known to stall), when should the brewer investigate if adding a secondary strain of yeast will be required?  Is there a rule of thumb or accepted practice that suggests if X% of expected attenuation is not complete by Y days, then attenuation will very likely require a very long time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there are various options for the brewer, such as raising the fermentation temperature, removing back pressure, or simply waiting for the fermentation rate to start again.  But this question is about the earliest point where the brewer might know with reasonable certainty that action is going to be required to get the beer to quickly completely attenuate, and what to do at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The default process is to take multiple gravity readings, and when the slope doesn't change from one measurement to the next, then it's time to take action.  But is there a way to &quot;know&quot;, right away, by taking just one, properly timed measurement?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this yeast, there are many brewers reporting &quot;stuck at 1.030&quot; or &quot;stalled at 1.035&quot;, which are roughly only 50% or 60% of expected attenuation, but it's usually after a few weeks of frustration and multiple measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that in a typical fermentation curve, the majority of the attenuation occurs in the first six days, when should I take the measurement that will indicate a stall, and above what value would indicate a stall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T14:52:56.797" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T15:47:39.603" Title="Process and timing to detect a stalled fermenation in order to add more yeast (repitch)" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|attenuation|saison|repitch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2017-07-13T14:52:03.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With extract you have no control over the mash temperature of the wort so there could be a lot of unfermentable sugar's in there. I would say an amylase enzyme would be the best way to get it low enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15216" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T16:45:59.897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T16:45:59.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21624" CreationDate="2017-07-13T15:22:08.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience yeast gives up early &lt;strong&gt;when I see it drop out of high krausen / exponential growth / feeding phases in 1-2 days.&lt;/strong&gt; It's the first sign for me to be diligent in taking readings and making adjustments to keep it going well. There's many reasons why this effects final gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over all its speculated that when the yeast works too fast in growth phase that cell division leaves too many bud scars for the yeast to take up complex large molecule sugars easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the abv increases faster that the yeast can strengthen its cell walls, and basically poisons its self.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I've had very fast primary fermentation without any issues, but this is always when I've done a full pitch of yeast and there's no growth needed to complete fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T15:22:08.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21624" CreationDate="2017-07-13T15:47:39.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dupont strain is a kinda special beast.  We found in an experiment on Experimental Brewing that you need to open ferment it to prevent the stall.  Whether it's pressure or CO2 toxicity hasn't been determined.  Assuming you're using an airlock, remove it and use a piece if foil loosely over your fermenter.  That should fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.experimentalbrew.com/experiments/saison-yeast-airlock-vs-open-ferment-does-it-prevent-stall&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.experimentalbrew.com/experiments/saison-yeast-airlock-vs-open-ferment-does-it-prevent-stall&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.experimentalbrew.com/podcast/episode-18-saison-under-pressure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.experimentalbrew.com/podcast/episode-18-saison-under-pressure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question more directly, though, no, there is no formula for how much attenuation to expect by a certain time.  If you want to have an idea of how far the wort might possibly ferment, a forced ferment test is very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T15:47:39.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21615" CreationDate="2017-07-13T16:31:33.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the most basic level of matter conversion resulting in loss of gravity in the beer it must exit as a volatile (gas co2,o2), or be converted into a larger molecule that uses more space than before and increases dissolved volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 10ppm o2 is only 0.001% of the mass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When oxygen is taken up by yeast biomass is the product. Biomass is not a factor adding to disolved solution volume, because it settles out as trub. In fact it increases a typical wort solutions specific gravity. Because yeast cell is 70% water. (Harden: note on the water content of the yeast cell pg. 608). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practical brewing, I believe this is the culprit for many skewed readings in attenuation calculations. Not from uptake of sugar that doesn't result in ethanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As for how much sugar is &quot;wasted&quot; and not converted to ethanol. I don't think it's measurable outside of lab conditions and is not a major concern to a homebrewer.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T18:52:51.820" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T18:52:51.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21631" CreationDate="2017-07-14T02:12:39.530" Score="3" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to this but home brewing is something I always wanted to try but never got around to it. I have my first batch fermenting made with a PicoBrew Pico appliance which is very nice but I think I might want to try making bigger batches using the brew in a bag method at times as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to go the turkey fryer route and hoping to be able to boil indoors on my natural gas range. My largest burner is 16k BTU, my second largest is 15k BTU. I don't want to use two burners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the largest all grain boil I can do indoors on my 16k burner in a reasonable amount of time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping 2.5 - 3 gallons would be doable in a 5 gallon pot but curious as to what others manage to do indoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found these calculators: For BIAB water volume &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biabcalculator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.biabcalculator.com/&lt;/a&gt; I get 4.27 gallons to make a 2.5 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also found this calculator for time to boil water. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.easycalculation.com/physics/thermodynamics/water-boiling-time-calculator.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.easycalculation.com/physics/thermodynamics/water-boiling-time-calculator.php&lt;/a&gt; Assuming 70% efficiency (which is just a guess to account for heat loss from sides and top of kettle) it would take 28 minutes to get from 32F to 153F and then 11 minutes to get from 153F to boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that sound about right to anyone that does smaller batches indoors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15220" LastEditorUserId="15220" LastEditDate="2017-07-14T05:25:58.503" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T11:06:44.423" Title="How big of a batch can I brew on a 16k BTU burner?" Tags="|beginner|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21629" CreationDate="2017-07-14T03:12:06.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is doing a partial boil brew, boiling 2 gallons of concentrated wort then adding 3 gallons sanitary water to the fermentor for 5 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically this is done with extracts. Would be challenging to do as BIAB, all grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do full volume boil. &lt;em&gt;I would suggest attempting to boil just water in the volume you want.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;16k btu is pretty small, but should be ok for 2-3 gallon boil.&lt;/strong&gt; Just will take longer. Cover your pot until you reach boil to reduce the warm up time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T03:12:06.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21629" CreationDate="2017-07-14T11:01:30.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be ok for the 2-3 gallon batch size you're after. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I regularly BIAB 1-2 gallon batches on the large burner of a regular kitchen cooker, the timings you have seem reasonable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20-30 min to bring your preboil + grain absorption volume up to mash temp &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10-15 min to bring your wort up to boil after the mash is complete &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The largest batch I've brewed was around 15L (3 gallons), as my pot only holds 19L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Evil Zymurgist's post suggests, put a lid on the pot while you're getting up to temperature to expedite the process. Take it off once it's boiling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12945" LastEditorUserId="12945" LastEditDate="2017-07-14T11:06:44.423" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T11:06:44.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2017-07-14T15:26:10.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can also make flour.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the grains in a shallow pan, place in the oven at minimum heat until dry.  Mix the grain every hour or so, to help it dry faster.  Once dry, use a coffee grinder or food processor to crush the grain into flour.  You can mix it with regular floor and make pancakes or whatever you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T15:26:10.000" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2017-07-14T15:26:10.000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21634" CreationDate="2017-07-14T16:08:08.543" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some bad luck the other day and half way through my boil a small but significant amount of water fell in my brew from my extractor fan. I haven't given the extractor a good clean in a while and since I was in the boil stage I am not concerned about contamination, I am aware however there is probably a significant amount of grease up there that could have mixed with the water before dripping back into the kettle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finished up the batch anyway and its been fermenting happily a few days. What detrimental affects might be on the cards for my brew? a friend tells me fat certainly isn't a brewers friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15118" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T19:05:47.233" Title="Potential fat in wort, what's going to happen?" Tags="|contamination|off-flavor|head-retention|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21633" CreationDate="2017-07-14T18:16:01.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The worst that could happen is that it would affect head formation and retention.  But you might be OK.  No big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T18:16:01.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21633" CreationDate="2017-07-14T19:05:47.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That grease in extraction fan is from volatile food grease / oils. In my experience these are not water soluable. The condensation that fell back in was most likely just water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T19:05:47.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21642" CreationDate="2017-07-15T10:00:01.957" Score="1" ViewCount="1527" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing around with making my own yeast cultures, one of them has is white while fermenting. That started me thinking, &quot;can I ferment Cow's Milk?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One google search later there is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kumis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kumis&lt;/a&gt;, made from Mare Milk. But I am not sure how to go about it. This seems to be a nice list of steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get milk.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get enzyme that makes &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milk#Carbohydrates_and_miscellaneous_contents&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glucose from Lactose&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Maybe add some more glucose.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add yeast to the above.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Maybe add yogurt culture, to use the fats and proteins.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let ferment for x hours / days.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Strain out solid bits.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy drink.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will this work?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15130" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T10:44:32.257" Title="Fermenting Cow's Milk, or making Kumis" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2017-07-15T13:21:13.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When agricultural workers were supplied with beer during the working day by the farmer's wife, who was also the brewer ( Brewster ), water was added to the spent grains and hops and rebrewed to produce boys' beer for young workers. Sugar may be added to get the o.g. up a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15224" LastActivityDate="2017-07-15T13:21:13.243" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2017-07-15T13:21:13.243" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21636" CreationDate="2017-07-15T13:28:32.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Milk is historically and commercially fermented with lactic acid bacteria like Lactobacillus. This process is used For everything from sour milk to cheese.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as making something with yeast.&#xA;Lactaid has the enzyme needed to break down the unfermentable lactose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't know what the out come would be using enzymes and yeast. Only thing that comes to mind is the&quot;cement mixer&quot; gag drink, mixing Bailey's Irish cream and whiskey.  Which tastes great for about a second then leaves a mouth full of curd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-15T13:28:32.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="813" CreationDate="2017-07-15T22:31:07.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Table Suger, Suger Cubes, and Corn Suger with no ill effects in my priming of my beers to this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2017-07-15T22:31:07.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-16T01:37:00.100" Score="2" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is anyone using fastferment conical with the temp jacket to eliminate secondary fermenter?  I am having trouble maintaining my temperature according to the instructions.  Does anyone have a suggestion to maintain a lower temp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15225" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T07:57:15.000" Title="FastFermenter System" Tags="|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-16T02:00:53.547" Score="1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it true to get a higher S.G. you can by add extra Suger and fermentables like extra suger DME. I 'm trying to find a way to raise, The S.G and F.G&#xA;to get a higher ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T08:06:37.790" Title="Higher starting gravity" Tags="|specific-gravity|final-gravity|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21636" CreationDate="2017-07-16T07:45:38.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one wants to ferment milk with yeast and lactbacillius to make a drink (as opposed to cheese) then why not use the well known &quot;milk kefir&quot; grains to do the job. This form of fermented milk is well known and documented and milk kefir grains are a commercially available &quot;SCOBY&quot;. Wikipedia has a good entry on the subject and there are many other references on the interweb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T07:45:38.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21640" CreationDate="2017-07-16T07:57:15.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only moving the fermenter to a brew fridge or a cool place like a cellar would cool the fermenting vessel noticeably and with ease. I have seen desperate brewers using multiple &quot;ice packs&quot; (in plastic containers) placed inside the insulating jacket. Obviously this needs constant maintenance to be effective. But is does work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If only a few degrees of cooling is required then wrapping a damp &quot;tea towel&quot; around the fermenter will cool it by evaporation. There will need to be some (slight) airflow to keep the evaporation going - use a slow fan it all else fails. The towel will obviously have to be re-dampened periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T07:57:15.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21641" CreationDate="2017-07-16T08:06:37.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One can add any (sensible) soluble substance to get a higher S.G. If the substance is not fermentable then one also generally gets a higher F.G. If one wants a higher ABV then one adds a fermentable substance to the initial brew. This can be done by adding sugar, glucose, golden syrup, molasses (eg.for stouts) candisugar (eg Belgian ales) and malt extract (dry or liquid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one wants a higher F.G and ABV then a good option is to use malt extract as only a proportion is fermentable. What ferments boosts the ABV what remains boosts the FG. If one wants a higher S.G and ABV but a commensurately lower FG then use sugars (glucose/dextrose being a nice option). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T08:06:37.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10554" CreationDate="2017-07-16T17:13:13.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a new brewer you should not try to be proficient beyond your ability.  Maintaining consistency early and learning what to expect, not only in temperature but yeast quality, etc., allows you to better make modifications and corrections in future brews.  Also, I suggest you use a note book and keep meticulous notes about such issues as temperature, hop additions (type and time), and as many other items of interest as you can think of.  Temperature should be one carefully monitored item.  When you brew a great batch you can go back and grade that batch, as well as bad ones.  But at first.....consistency.  Sometimes you may find other common factors recorded that make a good/bad brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15225" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T17:13:13.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-16T17:29:17.113" Score="2" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been adding a consistent amount of loose Corn sugar (5oz) to each 5 gallon batch.  After my final fermentation just before bottling or kegging didn't matter and seems to work pretty well.  The last batch I tried a premeasured hard sugar added to each bottle before capping.  It also worked well.  I wonder about the additions being sterile enough to avoid bacterial contamination.  Actually any positive or negative experiences with candied sugar additions would be helpful before I change my routine for bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15225" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T19:05:49.563" Title="hard candied sugar" Tags="|bottling|sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21646" CreationDate="2017-07-16T19:05:49.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is quite possible to infect beer with non sterile priming sugar, although it is relatively rare for such an infection to occur. Mainly because correctly stored and handled sugar is relatively aseptic. One good way to go is to pasteurise the sugar by dissolving in a &lt;em&gt;minimal&lt;/em&gt; amount of boiling water and adding to the whole brew (with stirring) in a racking bin before bottling. This also has the advantage that the sugar is well dispersed in the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of paranoid brewers who microwave their sugar before use. Not sure if that is effective or not although it should work for sugars such as glucose/dextrose hydrates as the sugar crystals form with &quot;trapped water&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However carbonation drops, which are quite widely used to prime beer in the bottle, don't seem to cause great problems in normal use so it is debatable if this effort is worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T19:05:49.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21648" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-17T15:17:28.313" Score="6" ViewCount="511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have very nearly mastered the clarification process but still wish to control the timing of flocculation more consistently.  At what point/stage is cold crashing most efficient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15225" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-18T21:09:56.040" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T21:09:56.040" Title="Cold Crashing techniques" Tags="|techniques|cold-crash|cold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21648" CreationDate="2017-07-17T16:08:02.117" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I give fermentation 4-5 days at 63°F, then bump up the temp to 70-72°F for maybe another 3 days.  Then I crash to 33°F for 3-5 days until the beer clears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-18T12:54:38.227" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T12:54:38.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21648" CreationDate="2017-07-17T18:52:36.507" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure exactly what you are defining as efficient, so I am going to answer this assuming time efficiency is your primary goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Denny's advice is good advice for a general approach without having to faff around checking things, and will ferment all but the largest brews to FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you take daily samples and gravity readings.  As soon as you have 2 of the same readings, then I would start the crashing process for optimal time efficiency. You can cold crash down to -1°C/30°F, as the alcohol and sugars in solution will prevent freezing, but you should be aiming for 33-38°F/0.5-3.5°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-18T12:56:46.127" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T12:56:46.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21597" CreationDate="2017-07-18T08:10:32.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO, the best use of spent grain is for food. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made an amazing bran cake from the spent grain from a red ale. Not only are the grains. Spent grain has residual sugars that add a sweetness that improves a lot of foods. You can use them in pancakes, cakes, muffins, and you can even make granola with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are done mashing/steeping, place your spent grain on a baking sheet lined with baking paper and place in the oven at a low heat with the fan for a few hours, turning the grains every so often to get the to dry out evenly. Once dry, put them in a blender or a coffee grinder, and then you are done! Enjoy your beer with snacks made from the grains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15233" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T08:10:32.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20564" CreationDate="2017-07-18T08:14:23.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cold in the fridge shouldn't kill the yeast, but it will slow it down. So if you generally bottle condition for two weeks, it most likely won't be ready after two weeks in the fridge. I suggest taking it out of the fridge for a week and testing it then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I like keeping my beer out at room temperature even after it is ready because I like it aged a bit. I only put like 4 beers in the fridge at once (unless I'm like having a party) so I have cold beer but let the rest age. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15233" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T08:14:23.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2017-07-18T08:21:38.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would need to see your recipe, but my guess is either you are boiling your hops too much or you are not using enough hops. Boiling hops creates bitterness, but it also reduces the floral aromas which we love. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my recipe, I boiled Williamet for 30 min, Centennial for 15 min, and Citra for 5 min. After a week, I dry hopped with Cascade flowers (as opposed to pellets). That gave me a nice grassy aroma two weeks after racking and a nice citrus aroma about a month later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15233" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T08:21:38.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18975" CreationDate="2017-07-18T08:25:06.893" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opening up the fermenter and stirring doesn't sound like a good idea, but you can definitely shake it while closed. That should wake the yeast up a bit. But keep in mind that when you do aerate the beer, it gets cloudy, so you will have to wait for it to settle anyway. Personally, I've never had any fermentation issues, but maybe it's because I live in a pretty warm place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15233" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T08:25:06.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21594" CreationDate="2017-07-18T16:02:36.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, when ripe is best. Cheers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T16:02:36.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21659" CreationDate="2017-07-18T17:35:51.003" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;When fermenting with Mr Beer plastic Keg or upright Carboy, and I want to add a fruit flavor. Is the best way to add the flavor to add actual fruit or use the essence of the fruit that I want to use. Any help is very much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T18:56:26.043" Title="When wanting to add a fruity taste" Tags="|fermentation|flavoring|fruit-extract|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21658" CreationDate="2017-07-18T18:56:26.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that you would like to add fruit flavor to the same vessel that you plan to use for serving, adding actual fruit might become problematic.  If you were attempting to add fruit flavor in a fermentation vessel, your options would be more numerous, but in your case, you might consider using a fruit flavor extract.  Brewing supply stores carry many fruit options (strawberry, cherry, apricot, blueberry, peach, raspberry, etc).  A note of caution, though.  Even though these are often billed as &quot;natural flavors&quot;, they can come across as &quot;cough syrup&quot; in some cases.  Consider an experiment using a measured dilution of the flavoring and an eye dropper with small samples of your beer at various numbers of drops.  You can identify the least detectable level of flavor and possibly the &quot;overpowering&quot; level of flavor, then calculate how much flavoring you'd need to add to get to a pleasing level of fruitiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T18:56:26.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19182" CreationDate="2017-07-18T22:42:49.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you used 750ml bottles .With the Mr Beer kits 2 carbonation drops work well. My self I like to use table sugar or the small suger cubes, cubes no measuring involved. I've always used 12oz bottles a little messy. I avoid the chance of over Carbonating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T22:42:49.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19182" CreationDate="2017-07-19T01:52:19.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No matter how much sugar is added to the recipe (which will increase OG and possibly FG), the main problem is over carbonation in the bottles. Two carbonation drops per bottle is ok for 750ml bottles.  Cooper's mention: &quot;The dosage required is 1 drop per 345-375ml bottle or 2 drops per 740-750ml bottle&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is possible that fermentation was not completely finished, causing the over carbonation. What was the FG?  Fermentation could have been stuck for 3 days due to temperature or other factors, but doesn't means it was finished unless the FG was reached. Coopers will specify the estimated FG in their instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being clarified, your beer will still be good even if some has escaped the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T01:52:19.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-19T08:14:01.773" Score="2" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say if I add Extra Pale malt, then add some wheat, oats, or something else &lt;em&gt;to add body/weight only&lt;/em&gt; to the beer, can it still be called a SMaSH?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15235" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T14:59:40.230" Title="Is malt + wheat still a SMaSH?" Tags="|malt|wheat|oats|smash|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21662" CreationDate="2017-07-19T09:23:10.907" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think not. SMaSH means single malt and a single hops. The point is simplicity and purity, where emphasize the flavor of a single malt and single hops. Adding additional ingredients will change the attributes of the beer, which will means that it is no longer a single malt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But IMO, the more important question is why do you care? Beer is a beverage that should be enjoyed. If you feel that adding additional grains will give you a more enjoyable beer, do it. In fact, one of the main reasons why people homebrew in the first place is to experiment with different flavors and to create a beer that can me more enjoyable than what is offered as standard, so making a SMaSH beer which isn't exactly SMaSH makes it YOUR beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15233" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T09:23:10.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21662" CreationDate="2017-07-19T14:13:24.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Drew Beecham's article in November/December 2012 Zymurgy and associated &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/presentations/pdf/2012/1616-17%20Brewing%20on%20the%20Ones%20-%20Drew%20Beechum.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;presentation (subscription required)&lt;/a&gt;, the term &lt;code&gt;SMaSH&lt;/code&gt; was coined on homebrewtalk.com and, of course means, &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt;ingle &lt;code&gt;M&lt;/code&gt;alt &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt;nd &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt;ingle &lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt;op.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question highlights part of the problem with SMaSH recipes...they can be boring or lacking a quality you desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So although adding an additional grain to your recipe would disqualify it as a SMaSH recipe, Drew proposed &lt;code&gt;Brewing On The Ones&lt;/code&gt;, which allows for a single malt &lt;em&gt;plus&lt;/em&gt; a single color or flavor malt or adjunct.  Still one hop, but additionally, one spice, one sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Drew's rule (for Brewing on the Ones): You get one choice per &quot;category&quot;. That means one base, one adjunct, one hop, one yeast and one surprise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T14:13:24.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-19T14:44:43.990" Score="2" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brubox.co/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BrüBox&lt;/a&gt; which allows you to brew your own craft beer at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the estimated alcohol percentage you can achieve by using the provided equipment and following the instructions from the BrüBox brewing kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15237" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T02:43:40.197" Title="How strong you can brew a beer using Brubox kit?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|kits|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21662" CreationDate="2017-07-19T14:59:40.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally a SMASH is a simple recipe to experiment with a single ingredient at a time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be true to the acronym one would only be able to play with base malts and bittering hops. But this isn't the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO it was never intended to be strict to the acronyms meaning. Single malt, single hop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But rather single malt, single hop aside from a well known base malt and bittering hop or better yet hop extract for bittering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to explore how ingredients effect and add to the simplest recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SMASH base beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X lb 2-Row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X ml hop extract at 60 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One then could add their specialty malt OR hop addition to explore the effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T14:59:40.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21666" CreationDate="2017-07-19T15:31:01.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer kits generally end up somewhere near or just below the 5% ABV mark. It is easy to add sugar/glucose to the wort to make it a higher ABV. Generally using added sugars one can get to somewhere around 10% ABV or so. Beer is rarely made less than 3% ABV even for a &quot;session beer kit&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T15:31:01.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21666" CreationDate="2017-07-19T16:03:57.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with barking.pete&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't mention anything on their website except that you can choose from Porter, Session IPA or Weissbier.  Based on my experience with Cooper's Kit, they usually are just below 5%.   However, my local brew store make their own kits that are between 4.5% and 8% depending on the type of beer, so it is a possiblility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always increase alcohol by adding sugar or add some malt (since it seems to be an all grain kit, requiring a mash).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-21T02:43:40.197" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T02:43:40.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-20T14:19:10.603" Score="4" ViewCount="2084" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a home brewing newbie from the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made 2 batches so far; my first was a 1 gallon IPA kit using grains which I was relatively happy with for a first attempt; the second was a 40 pints IPA from a tin which whilst drinkable, was disappointing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to move into adding my own ingredients to a 40 pints kit (yeast, hop, etc.) but don't really know where to start.  The reviews for this kit &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wilko.com/cider+beer-brewing/wilko-ipa-brewing-kit-15kg-makes-40-pints/invt/0440627&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wilko.com/cider+beer-brewing/wilko-ipa-brewing-kit-15kg-makes-40-pints/invt/0440627&lt;/a&gt; say that it's a good as a base kit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What ingredients would people recommend that I add?  Can anyone suggest recipes or a how to guide to follow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15244" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-21T02:36:16.350" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T02:36:16.350" Title="Adding Ingredients to an IPA Kit" Tags="|ingredients|recipe|ipa|recipe-formulation|kits|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21671" CreationDate="2017-07-20T18:34:30.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are going to go as far as adding your own hops and yeast (good on yer, mate) then you might as well ditch the kit and use malt extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically what is in the can is hopped malt extract, maybe with some steeped grain extract or colouring. Malt extract comes in two types; liquid and powder. The liquid is basically the powder in water. Buy whichever you find useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could start with something like Coopers amber malt extract (probably from the same place as the kit or on t'interweb). Muntons(UK) also make malt extract. That will give the basic amber/bronze colour. For 24L brew bin you will need two cans. If you buy powder in 1Kg packets then I would be tempted to go for 3 or 4. 4Kg of Dried malt extract in 24L will give a good strong IPA with good body/mouthfeel. Alternatively you could use 3Kg (2 x can) and add 1Kg of brewing sugar(glucose) which will also give a strong beer with a lighter body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For hops I would use something like a 80g mix of Admiral/Challenger/Target with a 90 min boil and throw in 20g of Fuggles towards the end of the boil (last 5 mins). If you like a bitter beer then add (for example) 10g of Fuggels as dry hops into the brew bin after a few days. You could dry hop with Challenger, ect. if you wanted but Fuggels (or East Kent Goldings) is IMHO a better aroma&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many yeast one could use but Danstar Nottingham or even Danstar Winsor would do. I am sure Safale04 would work as well. Add one packet (pref in starter solution to check it is active) into the wort and ferment for (say) 14 days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rack the brew into another brew bin, if possible, then prime with 130g of sugar/glucose and bottle. Alternatively you can prime each bottle with sugar or carbonating drops. Leave for at least a month after bottling to condition/carbonate and age a little. It may well taste better after 3 months or more. Of course you may prefer to use a plastic keg but you still need to do the same sort of priming, probably with 110g sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of online information and a good number of brewing books available. There are a number of HomeBrew shop sin UK with online ordering. Two good examples are: www.brewUK.co.uk   and www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/  The first one sells extract kits with the hops and yeast needed to make a brew to many given styles complete with good instructions. I am sure others do to.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-07-20T19:39:20.943" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T19:39:20.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21671" CreationDate="2017-07-20T20:43:49.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What yeast you use depends on the flavour profile you want out of the kit, Safale US-05 will give a clean drier flavour profile, while S-04 would give a more ester rich profile, there are so many yeasts to play with and each one will contribute a unique flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now regarding adding hops to the kit. the kit has been boiled already and has had bittering and some aroma hops added, but probably something less desirable like Target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest taking 20-50g of your desired aroma hop, adding it to the FV, dumping some (2l) boiling water on it, then adding everything else as per instructions. This should give a nice infusion of flavour and aroma, and also sanitise the hops a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once fermentation is completed, ie FG reached, you can think about some dry hopping. To do this, sanitize you hop packet, and a pair of scissors, chop open the pack, weight out into a sanitised bowl (10-20g), then pop open the FV, drop in the hops and shut up for about 3 days. T90 pellets are best for dry hopping, but if you can only get leaf then don't worry you will just need about 2-3 times the amount to get the same level of flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this is a nice easy way to experiment with flavours and yeasts without covering your kitchen in even more mess, welcome and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T20:43:49.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18890" CreationDate="2017-07-20T21:07:50.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would expect RO water to lack the carbonates to buffer your mash pH. The water I tend to brew with has pH 7.2-8.0 mean 7.61 depending on time of year and a hardness as CaCO3 of ~270 ppm. This offers a fair amount of buffering. As you are only adding calcium chloride to the solution and no carbonate I am not surprised that your pH is more acidic than anticipated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have personally never used the Bru'n water calculators myself, I tend to use good old trial and error, and dial in with a tweak here or there as required to get the number lining up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding pH meter calibration, it is usually best to calibrate with 2 separate buffered solutions one acid and one neutral or base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading a few posts on other homebrew forums, many of them suggest using 50/50 RO/tap water to balance out their brews, or 60/40 40/60 depending on the target I would suggest trying this, as it will leave trace level of other salts in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T21:07:50.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21671" CreationDate="2017-07-21T02:34:44.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;h3&gt;In general, when it comes to modifying extract kits, you have a few options to make it better:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.  Add less water&lt;/strong&gt; to increase flavor and alcohol content (ex: 20L instead of 23L)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;2.  Steep some specialty grain&lt;/strong&gt; to add flavor (depends on the type of beer)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;3.  Add some hops&lt;/strong&gt; (dry hopping or boiled) to add more flavor/bitterness&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;4.  Add Dextrose&lt;/strong&gt; (sugar) to increase alcohol content&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;5.  Add DME&lt;/strong&gt; or LME to increase body, flavor and alcohol content&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;6.  Choose a yeast&lt;/strong&gt; that will slightly change the flavor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that depends on your personal taste, but don't be afraid to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That kit looks very similar to a Cooper's extract kit, which I have brewed a few times.  Since it is an IPA at 4% ABV, I suspect that it will be light in flavor and bitterness (compared to other IPAs), so I would, according to my personal taste:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add a bit more hops (dry hopping), some Citra, Centennial or Cascade perhaps.  If you have several small fermenters, you can split your batch in two or three and dry hop them separately with different hops.  You may or not blend them at bottling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add some DME, pale or amber would do&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add the recommended dextrose quantity, plus a little&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;since I already added DME, I don't think I would steep any grain.  But if DME is not added, I would definitely steep some light crystal malt and increase the dextrose quantity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to rinse the extract can with hot water, to make sure you are not leaving any extract in the can, but that's probably already in the instructions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T02:34:44.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-21T05:59:12.053" Score="2" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a little bit of a fermentation experiment by adding water to a large jar half full of fruit (nectarines). I did not add any sugar or yeast. The final product is very sour, which I'm assuming is acetic acid but I'm quite sure there is some ethanol in there as well. My 'burping' process may have added too much oxygen which is why I'm assuming vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing as ethanol has an SG of &amp;lt;1.00 and acetic acid has an SG of &gt;1.00, a hydrometer reading will not be an accurate way to measure the alcohol content - I also did not take an initial reading of the 'mash/wort' (sorry, I'm usually a beer guy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there methods I can use to measure both acid content and ethanol content?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14217" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T07:22:49.210" Title="Fruit 'wine' - acetic acid and alcohol" Tags="|fermentation|wine|fruit|measurements|acidity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21676" CreationDate="2017-07-21T07:22:49.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acid content is generally measured by titration - a pH meter or test papers do not measure content only &quot;acidity&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sourness is IMHO likely to be lactic acid as lactobacillius are generally present on fruit and will work directly on the sugars present. Acetobacter need alcohol (and oxygen) to produce the acetic acid (vinegar) so will generally only work in later stages of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the drink is a little sour it is sometimes possible to reduce the acidity with calcium carbonate (best) or sodium bicarbonate (second best). This does not work usefully with VERY sour solutions and be aware it may foam for a while.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T07:22:49.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21679" CreationDate="2017-07-21T14:56:35.247" Score="6" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;With all the hot weather we have been having in my part of the world recently, what would be the best yeast to use for fermenting beer at (say) 20C or 22C. Obviously I am not making a lager - but aim to produce an IPA or a English bitter session beer. Does anyone have experience of or comment on higher temp fermentations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T21:59:08.473" Title="What is the best yeast to ferment beer at higher temperatures?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21678" CreationDate="2017-07-21T15:24:59.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm eager to try this yeast. It's rumored to be as clean as california ale while fermenting in the 90's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.omegayeast.com/portfolio/14158-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.omegayeast.com/portfolio/14158-2/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T15:24:59.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-21T23:16:47.660" Score="2" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what Mr Beer Brew Max is? Also what can be substituted for it?I am trying to raise my A.B.V. in my home brew. I ask because I need a substitute. It almost looks like very small pieces of Rock Candy. When add to my wort it seemed to thicken it. Also don't know what kind of effect it has on A.B.V. or the taste of the Beer. The &#xA; batch I used it in is cold fermenting now in my fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastEditorUserId="15201" LastEditDate="2017-07-21T23:28:39.417" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T18:41:19.430" Title="Mr Beer sells Brew Max" Tags="|original-gravity|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21680" CreationDate="2017-07-21T23:32:21.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's most likely just a monosaccharide. (simplest form of sugar)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corn Sugar is the go-to monosaccharide in brewing and can be bought at your LHBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T23:32:21.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-22T05:07:00.343" Score="3" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being offered the following list of items for sale:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two 5-gallon glass carboys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thirty &quot;Grolsh&quot; (unsure of this term) bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle brush&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Funnel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle capping tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottling bucket w/ spicket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottling wand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fittings and hoses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CO2 canister&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CO2 regulator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two Cornelius kegs (look to be 5-gal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diffusion stone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much would this be worth do you think? Equipment is dirty and I'll have to clean it myself. Seller is offering $200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15247" LastActivityDate="2017-07-22T14:29:58.537" Title="How much is this equipment worth?" Tags="|equipment|cost|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-22T05:50:13.473" Score="2" ViewCount="1499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't been able to sort out the exact differences, it seems to me both of them are blended with yeast in a 'must' for x number of days then bottled for secondary fermentation/carbonation. What am I missing? Of course that's stripping it down to the bare minimum, variations exist; beer often includes hops along the way, white wine grapes are peeled beforehand, etc., but is there a fundamental difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, from what I understand, sake and cider are made the same way as wine. Cider makes more sense to me as it is also a fruit, but rice (the base of sake) is a cereal grain just like barley/wheat, so does that imply barley could be brewed the same way as sake or wine as well? What would that taste like? Is there a name for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15248" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T07:36:32.603" Title="Difference between 'brewing' beer and wine?" Tags="|beer|wine|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21684" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-22T06:47:32.427" Score="2" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering starting my own project brewing beer, but I'm worried about the temperature of the ferment at rest. I live in Florida where the days are currently getting up to around 90 Fahrenheit, and my house can't be air-conditioned to anything less than 80. Temperature recommendations for brewing beer are just about 70 degrees and there really isn't a way I can get it down to that, any suggestions? Would it still brew, but perhaps taste different? Ferment faster? Do species of yeast exist which prefer these higher temperatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15248" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T13:09:52.727" Title="Brewing beer in Florida" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21684" CreationDate="2017-07-22T11:16:03.457" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;brew fridge&quot; might be one suggestion to brew beer at a cooler than ambient temperature. It is basically a converted old fridge that has no shelves and has been converted to hold the fermenting vessel (eg a carboy or demijohn) at lower temp. I have seen a home brewer just use a recycled &quot;normal&quot; fridge with its internal thermostat set &quot;high&quot; to brew lager at 7C (45F). It worked very well. Other have used an extra internal thermostat to control the fridge motor to produce temperatures of anything from 5C to just below room temperature. One can search for such things on the internet and get instructions on how to build/modify. Unfortunately most are &quot;self build&quot; and require some requisite skills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-22T11:16:03.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21683" CreationDate="2017-07-22T11:25:11.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO the most discernible difference between beer and wine is the use of grain and grapes/fruit. Beer tends to be grain based - think Reinheitsgebot. However it can be difficult to decide if cider is a beer or a wine - maybe a fruit beer? Carbonation &lt;em&gt;per se&lt;/em&gt; seems to be no guide, as champagne is fizzy - more so than most beers. Use of hops seems to be peculiar to beer - but there are reports of one or two wines made with hops. So that may be a good indication but is not a defining factor. Most beers have added yeast and most natural wines are fermented with the yeast naturally on the grapes. But with modern industrial processes that tends to be lost in mass production methods that add yeast to both brews. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the obvious defining factor of &quot;beer&quot; is that it is made from malted and mashed grain. The sugars need to be converted from the starch stored in the grain to be able to ferment. That conversion might define the brew as beer. Wines are made from things that already have fermentable sugar and so no conversion is needed. That definition would make cider an &quot;apple wine&quot; and sake a &quot;rice beer&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barley in its dry stored state has little if any natural sugar that can be fermented by yeast to produce alcohol. It has to be malted and mashed for the sugars to be converted ready for fermentation. Could one polish barley grains and then treat them with Aspergillius mold like rice? Err, possibly but why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sake is made from unmalted rice grain. The startch in the polished rice grain is converted to fermentable sugars with the help of  Aspergillus mold. Then the fermentation to produce alcohol is done with Saccharomyces. So one might say sake is like beer as the rice must be &quot;prepared&quot; to ferment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-07-23T07:36:32.603" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T07:36:32.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21680" CreationDate="2017-07-22T11:28:40.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coopers sell a beer enhancer that is composed of a mix of glucose and light dried malt extract. It adds body (via non fermentables in the extract) and increases alcoholic strength via the sugar and fermentables in the extract. I imagine that &quot;BrewMax&quot; is something similar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can usually tell the difference between just glucose/sugar and dried malt extract by colour (sugar is white - extract is light brown) and the reaction with water. Dried extract becomes ridiculously sticky if a (very) little water is added. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-07-23T18:41:19.430" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T18:41:19.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21682" CreationDate="2017-07-22T11:31:59.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO, the only thing of real value in the list are the CO2 regulators and the Cornelius kegs. They will only be useful if the seals are all intact. Are they worth $200? Possibly if in GOOD condition... If you have to clean the rest then it may just as well be bought new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-22T11:31:59.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-22T14:20:28.033" Score="1" ViewCount="802" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put liquid yeast in wort cooled to 70 degrees. My yeast was at 78 degrees not 70 degrees no bubbles yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15249" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-22T21:44:36.930" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T16:42:44.073" Title="Fermentation has not started been 48 hours." Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21682" CreationDate="2017-07-22T14:29:58.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a fair price if everything is in good condition, everything there is about 400-500 new as a kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic fermenting parts can be risky used. If their history of use was with sours or Brett beers, they should only be used for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some hidden costs.&#xA;Check the date on the co2 tank, it's about $12 to fill but add $40 or so to have certified if out of date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kegs can be rebuilt for $5 oring kit. Pipets can be $20 a keg but rarely fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-22T14:29:58.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21689" CreationDate="2017-07-22T14:43:50.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;48 hours is usually a long lag time. But not always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For more detailed answer please post your wort OG, yeast type, yeast date, amount pitched, storage conditions of yeast, how was wort oxygenated.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would keep it below 70° though, in all cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may just be lost in language, but yeast needs to be added &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; wort has been chilled to pitch temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-22T14:43:50.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-23T18:34:41.430" Score="4" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used most of these to make a Czech Pilsner, which came out every well, however, I don't have a refrigerator in which to lager the pilsner right now.  So, I'm looking for a light refreshing beer that will take me though the summer. I can get different hops if that would benefit the recipe. BTW this would be a 5 gallon partial-grain extract recipe. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weyermann Carahell grain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6lbs of Pilsen light DME &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saaz Hops (approx 3/4 pound)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Citra 1/2 oz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BRY-97&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nottingham and Safale US-05 yeasts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-23T21:53:32.577" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T20:38:54.347" Title="What kind of beer can I make with these ingredients?" Tags="|beer|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21689" CreationDate="2017-07-23T18:49:55.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree, 48 hours, you should probably see something indicating that fermentation is taking place. No foam, no bubbles, however slight? Some yeasts are quite temperature sensitive, requiring a specific range to activate and work properly, however, I don't feel that 78F would be too high to kill most yeasts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your liquid yeast was outdated or improperly stored, it may be bad.  You can add a bit of yeast nutrient and/or energizer to give it a helping hand and see if that stirs things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you oxygenate your wort with either an oxygen tank or serious stirring? Maybe that's an issue contributing to the slow start.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T18:49:55.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21678" CreationDate="2017-07-23T21:59:08.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, 20°C to 22°C is not that high, if you look at this &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/high-temp-yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; you will see that almost all of them can do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The highest temperature in the list is:  Wyeast 3724 (Belgian Saison) — 70-95 °F (21-35 °C)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T21:59:08.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21692" CreationDate="2017-07-24T06:20:30.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I answered this mostly as an exercise for myself since I may be in this situation and like fiddling with recipes. My brewing experience on a scale to 0 to 10 isn't 0 but not exactly 1 either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 5 gal batch: 6lbs Pilsen DME and 1lbs (you didn't specify so I assumed just 1) will get you either a belgian blonde ale or an american ipa (although light on color) depending on how you hop it. Based on what you asked for I'd go with belgian blonde which will be less bitter and less hoppy than an ipa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6lbs Pilsen DME &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1lb CaraHell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hop additions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 mins - 1 oz Saaz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15 mins - 0.25 oz Citra and 0.25 oz Saaz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 mins - 0.25 oz Citra&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use Safale US-05 yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG 1.056 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FG 1.008 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IBU 21 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SRM 4 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABV 6%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me I wouldn't worry what type of beer it winds up being I'd say just brew it like you would have brewed the pilsner but ferment it with ale yeast at ale temperatures and see what happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15220" LastEditorUserId="15220" LastEditDate="2017-07-24T20:38:54.347" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T20:38:54.347" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-24T07:01:10.690" Score="7" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that in the Himalayas a lot of hop varieties are grown. Is there a company(s) which produce and market hops in India?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15254" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-08-11T21:06:22.703" LastActivityDate="2018-02-19T17:14:28.150" Title="Are there any Indian Hop variety out there?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21689" CreationDate="2017-07-24T11:34:03.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is still not bubbling or showing positive signs of fermentation then IMHO the yeast should be re-pitched ASAP. This time make up a starter to check the yeast to be pitched is actually active &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; pitching it. I would also recommend that (at this stage) a double dose of yeast is used (eg 2 packets not just one). The priority is to get this brew fermenting in bulk before something else does that for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T11:34:03.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-25T10:29:58.470" Score="0" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have returned to home brewing after a long leave of absence and would be very grateful for some advice just to make sure my wort is still going in the right direction as I am getting a bit concerned.&#xA;I replaced the time expired yeast packets with new ones and have made two kits, a Brewmaker Strong Export Bitter and a John Thompsons Strong XXX Bitter. Everything was properly sterilised. &#xA;It's now day 6 and the wort of the Brewmaker is 1.030 and the Thompson's is 1.020. I remember clearly when making these beer kits before that they would generally reach a gravity of about 1006 after 6 or 7 days and become ready for barrelling, it says this is the beer kits instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gravity readings are taking longer than usual to come down, the temperature of the wort is about 20°C and they both seem to be foaming away quite happily! &#xA;Am I worrying unnecessarily about the slow fermenting speed could the replacement yeast work slower than the original time expired batches? Any advice would be very helpful and much appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&#xA;Jon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user15258" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-25T11:07:45.923" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T10:47:40.180" Title="Gravity concerns slow fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|specific-gravity|extract-brewing|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21704" CreationDate="2017-07-25T15:08:58.827" Score="3" ViewCount="1178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use to prime my PET bottles with dextrose and carbonation is usually good.  My last batch did not carbonate well (for reasons that I am investigating...), I will fix this, but my question is about other ways to carbonate my PET bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about kegging in the future, but I don't want to buy everything right now.  So could I buy the following :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5lbs CO2 tank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a regulator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PET bottle carbonation cap &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01IK9NYTG/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;pd_rd_i=B01IK9NYTG&amp;amp;pd_rd_r=AJZ7JSEGN67BYAXNRH61&amp;amp;pd_rd_w=NDD27&amp;amp;pd_rd_wg=Pk0xA&amp;amp;pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;amp;pf_rd_s=&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=5DGG845FJNFNCW1TR01P&amp;amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=04ba9dff-ad6f-4c0e-9daf-7ccc545ca71b&amp;amp;pf_rd_i=desktop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I could fill my PET bottle with CO2.  But how does it work?  Is it reliable? Can you guide me on the process?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T17:21:03.723" Title="Pet bottles force-carbonation" Tags="|bottles|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9608" CreationDate="2017-07-26T11:03:53.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I definitely know that it is possible, but I don't know how to do it. I was in a pub that served green beer for St Patrick's Day, so I know that it can be done and it has been done. I assume that it is just food coloring, but I've never done it myself. I would imagine that you would need a light colored beer like a Pilsner which has also been filtered (I don't even use whirloc in my brews). Also, I would assume that you would do it to the finished product and not to the wort. But I've never done it, so I am only guessing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15233" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T11:03:53.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21684" CreationDate="2017-07-26T11:09:54.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to use ale yeast at room temperature. 80 degrees isn't too hot to kill the yeast. Just put it in the coolest place in your house like a dark closet or something. Lagers probably are going to be a bad idea unless you have a refrigeration system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15233" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T11:09:54.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21713" CreationDate="2017-07-26T14:35:45.633" Score="3" ViewCount="11283" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time, adding yeast at bottling time is not necessary since enough healthy yeast remain in suspension to consume the priming sugar.  But in cases where the existing yeast might not be sufficient, I was looking for a reference to for the quantity of healthy yeast to pitch at bottling time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this site, I have found references to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/2238/1643&quot;&gt;10%&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/232/1643&quot;&gt;25%&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/2437/1643&quot;&gt;33%&lt;/a&gt; of the original pitch rate, but there were no external references to those recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The balance seems to be between excess yeast sediment and speed of carbonation.  If there is no hurry, it seems like a very, very small bit of fresh yeast would be sufficient.  But to complete carbonation faster, more yeast would probably be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware that Sierra Nevada bottle conditions their beer and they add yeast at bottling time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bottle conditioning is a time honored method for naturally carbonating beer and traditional champagne. We dose back a small amount of fermentable sugar and yeast into the bottle. The fermentation creates the finished carbonation and flavors unique to our beer. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sierranevada.com/faq/beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.sierranevada.com/faq/beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite adding yeast, I don't recall any dregs in those bottles.  So they must add very few yeast cells, but I don't see the specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any sources or references for the minimum effective quantity of fresh yeast pitched at bottling time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T02:18:13.343" Title="How much yeast to add for bottle conditioning" Tags="|yeast|bottle-conditioning|packaging|pitching-rate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21700" CreationDate="2017-07-26T17:21:03.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can get a ball lock attachment for plastic bottles, then force carbonate as you would a keg. 12-15psi for a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T17:21:03.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-26T23:18:14.267" Score="2" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time trying home brewing and I've started off with a small batch kit of English Ale just to try it out. Everything went well except I got pulled away from the kitchen while wort was cooling and when I got back I noticed the wort had cooled just below 55°C and I wanted to know if by doing so did I just wreck this batch of beer and/or what changes in taste/quality would I possibly expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15263" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-26T23:33:44.490" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T09:08:57.510" Title="What adverse effects can I expect from Pitching yeast at 55°C" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21705" CreationDate="2017-07-26T23:42:15.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may depend on what yeast it was, but chances are that you have killed the yeast (55°C = 131°F).  Some yeast are more tolerant to heat than others, but worst case scenario, if fermentation does not start within 2 days, you can buy a new pack of yeast at your local homebrew shop and pitch it in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your beer will probably not have suffered anything by delaying the fermentation.  Just make sure to keep it air tight as much as possible, specially if fermentation has not started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T23:42:15.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21705" CreationDate="2017-07-27T00:23:59.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast is dead.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;55°C = 131°F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally 110°F is a max safe temp for brewers yeasts. Anything over 120°F is damaging and yeast wouldn't last more than a few minutes. Above 130°F will give 3rd degree burns to human skin in 30 seconds, let alone delicate cell walls of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T00:23:59.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-27T08:47:24.453" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;As soon as adding the yeast, the fermentation process started immediately, like a bomb for about 15 hours and airlock was like an air pump during several hours.&#xA;today is the third day of brewing and second day that there is not any sign of airlock activity, is it safe to bottle it? or i must wait.&#xA;(i do not have a hydrometer&#xA;,air lock activity = zero)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15265" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T09:15:49.187" Title="fermentation process stopped quickly" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21705" CreationDate="2017-07-27T09:08:57.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After pitching the original yeast at 55C I think it is fair to say the brew now has &quot;too little yeast&quot;. Re-pitch new yeast ASAP. Even if some yeast remains alive, too much yeast will be MUCH better than too little yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the kit was an extract kit then I might also advise not boiling the extract in water. The extract is already boiled in the factory and the contents arrive in the can already sterile. Just dissolve the extract in boiled water and top up with tap water to the required temp. It can (no pun intended) help prevent such problems and is quicker to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T09:08:57.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21708" CreationDate="2017-07-27T09:15:49.187" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Airlock activity is a poor measure of fermentation. IMHO every brewer/brewster should get a hydrometer, they are cheap enough and will allow the brewer/brewster to determine what is happening in the brew with greater confidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a hydrometer is not available at the time of brewing then a good rule of thumb is to leave the brew to ferment for (say) 14 days. Most beers are complete in about 10 days (depending on temperature) but waiting some extra days will not hurt the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottling beer before it has finish fermenting (and particularly after just a few days) can be dangerous as the bottles may become excessively carbonated and the resulting pressure can &quot;damage&quot; the bottle - to say the least. Even if the bottles withstand the pressure the beer may behave more like champagne and empty itself onto the ceiling when opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So best leave the beer to ferment a little longer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T09:15:49.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21684" CreationDate="2017-07-27T13:09:52.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it’s too hot for your yeast, you could buy a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/cool-brewing-insulated-fermentation-bag.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fermenter insulation bag&lt;/a&gt;. You put the whole fermenter bucket inside and add a few ice packs, if necessary. These will need to be replaced regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution is likely a bit more cumbersome than having a dedicated fridge. On the plus side, it’s also cheaper, unless you have an old spare fridge lying around, and takes up less storage space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13381" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T13:09:52.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21703" CreationDate="2017-07-27T16:08:25.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There actually are a number of references in the literature to this issue. In general it seems that a standard target would be pitching (or to be more accurate, ensuring there are) &lt;strong&gt;1 million healthy cells per milliliter&lt;/strong&gt; of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a few references to actual bottle conditioning, and some to cask conditioning. I can't see any reason they wouldn't be interchangeable, and in fact their recommendations are all fairly similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The book &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=mROkAgAAQBAJ&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;dq=brewing%20science%20and%20practice&amp;amp;pg=PA807#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=brewing%20science%20and%20practice&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewing: Science and Practice&lt;/a&gt; recommends 1 million cells/ml:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'The range of yeast count at which cask beer can be successfully packaged is from 0.25 to 4 million cells/ml, but nearer to 1 million is to be preferred'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mbaa.com/publications/tq/tqPastIssues/2011/Abstracts/TQ-48-1-0225-01.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This study&lt;/a&gt;, in which Brooklyn Brewery was involved, uses a similar rate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Dry yeast was [...] inoculated into beer (referred to as “primed beer”) at a final dosing rate of 1.2 × 10^6 cells/mL'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mbaa.com/publications/tq/tqPastIssues/2006/Abstracts/TQ-43-0285.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Another study&lt;/a&gt; recommends a slightly lower range, but relies on a sort of hybrid-krausening method (not just priming fully attenuated beer). The in-bottle specification for yeast count is listed as &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'0.3–1 × 10^6 cells/mL'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To specifically answer this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Are there any sources or references for the minimum effective quantity of fresh yeast pitched at bottling time?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lowest reference I found (first, above) is 0.25 million cells/mL, so I'd suggest that as the minimum. Remember that the choice of target cell count is always going to involve some compromise between speed of carbonation and clarity of the final beer, and is going to be dictated by the health of the yeast, the nature of the beer you are conditioning, the temperature at which you condition and probably a number of other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For practical purposes, assuming a residual cell count of zero &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; that 1 gram of dry yeast would supply you 20 billion healthy cells, you'd need roughly 0.2 grams of dry yeast per gallon of beer to get the recommended 1 million cells per mL. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T16:08:25.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21689" CreationDate="2017-07-27T16:42:44.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would also have to ask if you are certain the seal for your lid/cover is working 100%?   I recently assumed that a saison I had just created wasn't fermenting and discovered that the gasket on the lid of my fermenter wasn't properly aligned and was allowing C02 out so there was no activity in my air lock.  A quick fix and all was well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words - check your setup and do not assume.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you observe a krausen on the top of your beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14683" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T16:42:44.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21717" CreationDate="2017-07-27T17:52:00.943" Score="7" ViewCount="1100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a reference to this recently and took pause. As I understand it, mash temp and the effects it has on the various enzymes effect fermentability (that is, the amount of fermentable vs non-fermentable sugars), not mash time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T10:51:00.400" Title="Does a longer mash time lead to more fermentable wort?" Tags="|mash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21715" CreationDate="2017-07-27T19:38:34.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You are correct that mash temperature is what primarily affects the fermentability of the wort, but time is also a factor. Modern brew malts convert the majority of their starches to sugar in as little as 10 minutes, but beta-amylase takes somewhat longer to work than alpha-amylase. That's why some recipes recommend a 90 minute mash for lower mash temps. I've done overnight mashes and those do dry out pretty well, but the yield for time is very low after 90 minutes. Fermentability is also affected by the grist composition, mash thickness, and ph. The attenuation limits of the yeast can also limit fermentability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further reading, here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/hops/item/629-fermentability-advanced-brewing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BYO article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T19:38:34.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21715" CreationDate="2017-07-27T19:41:50.857" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real answer is that it depends, but it certainly can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature affects the rate of enzymatic reaction - higher temperatures will mean the reaction happens faster, so high temperature mashes reach their limits of fermentability faster (i.e. mashing at 154°F you are not likely to see much benefit from extending your rest from 60 to 90 minutes, whereas if you're mashing at 148°F, you may well)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Denaturaion of enzymes - probably the most crucial point to consider. The higher the temperature the faster certain enzymes will denature, especially beta-amylase (which will survive about half an hour at about 152°F). So if you mash on the high side, the beta-amylase will have been denatured well before the typical hour-long rest is over and all continuing enzymatic activity (i.e. increased fermentability) will be due to alpha-amylase, which is capable of producing fermentable extract, but is not ideal for it. Likewise, mashing low (~146-148°F) the beta-amylase will survive much longer and should be able to continue to create fermentable extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changes in substrate concentration - as the mash continues and starch and dextrins are broken down, the enzymes have fewer molecules to work on and the rate naturally slows. Beta-amylase specifically has a higher affinity for larger molecules. When you're relying on alpha-amylase late in mashing to create fermentable extract, remember it only has a very limited number of substrate sites on which it can act and so while it can continue producing fermentable extract, it will be at an increasingly &lt;em&gt;decreasing&lt;/em&gt; rate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically it's more about how much time you want to spend on a decreasing rate of return of fermentability. Any mashing process has a natural limit to the fermentability it can achieve, and the closer you get to this limit the slower you'll be approaching it, but in many cases extending the mash can and will produce increases (albeit probably very small) in fermentability. The reality, though, is that most of the time it's just not worth it to wait an extra 30-60 minutes to get a tiny extra bit of fermentability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T19:41:50.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-28T02:35:55.133" Score="3" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short. Trying to understand my new set up, I made a mistake, I didn't check the post boil volume and also didn't have good rolling boil. The wort was boiling, but not so much. Simple grain bill:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5.2 kg 2 row (95%), &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20g Munich (5%)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first wort hops and 80g more at flameout. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mashed for 80 minutes at 65°C/149°F, mashed out for 10 minutes at 167°F. Boiled for 60 minutes stirring all the time. Pre-boil gravity was 1.050, after boil 1.056.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the chance for off flavors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you had similar experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15270" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2017-08-07T12:14:23.920" LastActivityDate="2017-08-07T12:14:23.920" Title="Slight difference pre and post boil gravity" Tags="|all-grain|boil|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21718" CreationDate="2017-07-28T03:17:27.777" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Q1) No chance of off flavors just from this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2) Yes, this is normal. The post boil gravity will always be higher than pre boil because of the water lost to evaporation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case about 12% of the water was boiled off, resulting in a 12% increase in gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming a 5 gallon batch, you boiled off about 0.6 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-28T03:17:27.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21721" CreationDate="2017-07-28T13:54:45.560" Score="3" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I followed &lt;a href=&quot;https://thebeerhop.com/product/all-grain-kit-mr-malt-supertramp-brewing-apa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this recipe&lt;/a&gt; for making an APA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have a smaller brewing kit (10~12 liters pan and fermentation bucket), I divided the ingredients for two batches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First one following every step and exactly the same hop additions. Also for the dry-hopping part.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Second one I added some Columbus hops for the hop additions and dry-hopping as well. The other main difference was that I used also a Safale S-04 instead, since I was without US-05.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of them I did dry-hopping from the day zero of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first batch was okay, it lacked maybe a little bit more time for the dry-hop to be better, but the second batch, every bottle that I opened it produce a lot of foam and start to come out of the bottle loosing almost half of the beer and the remaining part is complete flat...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can some clarify exactly what happend? I mean, I'm blaming the yeast since is not the one used for this kind of recipe, but maybe there's more to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15275" LastActivityDate="2017-07-28T14:23:21.977" Title="Beer looses almost all carbonation when opened" Tags="|carbonation|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21720" CreationDate="2017-07-28T14:23:21.977" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What your describing is volcano bottles. Over carbonation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is caused by bottle conditioning with too much priming sugar, too much residual sugar or wild yeast infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Priming sugar misdose is easily prevented with proper measuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Residual sugar is prevented by taking final gravity readings to make sure fermentation is complete instead of a measure of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wild yeast is prevented by good sanitation practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I would guess that the second batch caught a wild yeast. This can be confirmed by possible off esters and very dry beer, as wilds can ferment sugars brewers yeast cannot.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-28T14:23:21.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21724" CreationDate="2017-07-28T21:09:08.343" Score="2" ViewCount="663" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got some food grade nylon bags.  They smell a little plasticy. How do i wash them and get then ready before using them for boil in a bag brewing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15220" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T15:18:29.987" Title="How do you wash nylon grain bags for first use?" Tags="|equipment|biab|beginner|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-29T00:39:18.807" Score="5" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem my house is getting super hot during the summer, cannot find cool place to store my beer. I made a little insulated chamber but I seem not working at all. Recently I brewed an ale and fermentation temperature was in the normal range 18-20°C. Just worry if such high bottle conditioning temperature will affect the flavor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please share your thoughts. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15270" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-07-29T03:23:24.353" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T21:52:27.253" Title="30° Celsius bottle conditioning. How bad is it?" Tags="|bottling|temperature|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21722" CreationDate="2017-07-29T00:39:45.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toss them in the laundry with your whites. &#xA;No farbric softner.&#xA;Then air dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-07-29T00:39:45.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21722" CreationDate="2017-07-29T01:38:18.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good old fashioned hot water soak, a brewing sanitiser and sun bleach to dry will do the trick. Sometimes that plastic smell you describe is impossible to completely get rid of though. At least you can remove any surface residues from the plastic though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13021" LastActivityDate="2017-07-29T01:38:18.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21723" CreationDate="2017-07-29T01:40:59.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not bad at all. The only time temperature control is crucial is during fermentation, not conditioning. I live in Queensland Australia where the temps exceed 30 Celsius regularly in the Summer and my beers turn out fine. It doesn't affect the taste or beer in any way I am aware of or have noticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13021" LastActivityDate="2017-07-29T01:40:59.707" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21723" CreationDate="2017-07-29T03:27:56.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature will affect the flavor in the long run, but you won't notice anything if it is only a short period of time.  Once bottle conditioning is complete, you better store your beer in a cool place, otherwise it will age prematurely.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-07-29T03:27:56.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21722" CreationDate="2017-07-30T00:54:07.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No soap. Don't weaken them in the sun. Just drop in PBW for at least  1/2hr. Rinse in hot water (at least as hot as the water was when you started soaking it). Drip dry &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14658" LastActivityDate="2017-07-30T00:54:07.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2017-07-31T16:38:07.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do the same.  Once bottled, I chill/drink no sooner than 10 days, but leave out as many as 4 weeks so far.  We've been having a heatwave recently and I'm trying to determine if the bottles are too hot.  Probably closer to 80 degrees, but I have no way to cool.  I did put the fermenter in a bus tub of water and wrapped with a wet beach towel, but as far as the bottles are concerned, they are on their own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15284" LastActivityDate="2017-07-31T16:38:07.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21722" CreationDate="2017-08-01T09:25:58.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boil new bag in water for a few minutes. Dry in microwave. Clean. Sterile. Done.&#xA;Repeat for next use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T09:25:58.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-01T10:10:50.073" Score="2" ViewCount="1123" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone ever made Damson cordial ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very new to making cordials and as I have a high yield of damsons usually, I am just trying to see if cordial is an option rather than just wine and liqueur, but I am not getting it right clearly.   I have so far made two batches, but I am trying to stop it fermenting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First batch, I just made and bottled into plastic bottles. Bubbles appeared in the bottles pretty much straight away even though I put the bottles in the fridge straight away. it didn't matter if I shook the bottles to try to disperse the bubbles they did not go away. I had to then make sure that I did not leave the lids on tight as the bottles &quot;fizzed&quot; when opening them.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2nd batch, I decided to pasteurise I followed all instructions correctly. I put this batch in glass bottles but on pouring in the hot cordial, bubbles at the top would not disperse no matter what.  So being concerned that this meant fermenting was happening  I took one bottle and kept it in the fridge, the rest I diluted with water to make just a damson drink and re bottled into plastic bottles, keeping the lids loose.  Again they all have bubbles, so does this mean they are fermenting (thus turning into alcohol)?  For the record, I used up my frozen damsons' from last years yield. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate any advice on this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15286" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-08-01T13:01:59.893" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T17:59:37.253" Title="How do I stop my damson cordial from starting to ferment?" Tags="|fermentation|bottles|pasteurization|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21731" CreationDate="2017-08-01T11:16:04.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stopping cordials fermenting naturally is always a bit difficult without some chemical inhibitors, vigorous pasteurisation or freezing. Wild yeast and bacteria can be difficult to eliminate but some methods produce better results that others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted, pasteurisation is a good &quot;catch all&quot; method if carried out VIGOROUSLY. I don't mean boiling vigorously I mean being certain to boil and quickly transfer to the storage bottle. In this respect glass bottles are best because one can sterilise them easily by filling the bottle with boiling water. Fill the bottles with boiling water (and if with flip tops - cap them), then leave for a few minutes. Sterilise a funnel with boiling water (by pouring it over). Meanwhile bring the cordial to a boil (or at least to approx 85C for a few minutes), then empty the bottles of water, insert the sterilised funnel and fill with cordial. Cap immediately and even &quot;rinse/wash&quot; the cap/top of the bottle with more boiled water to clear any remaining drops/film of cordial. Leave to cool before storing in a fridge - although with this method it should be possible to store the cordial at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible method is to fill a plastic bottle and put the bottle in the microwave to pasteurise it. This needs observation because the aim is to get the cordial to about 70C for (say) 30 seconds to pasteurise effectively - but not to boil it! That can be difficult to achieve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people don't like boiling cordials with a delicate flavour - like elder-flower cordial. In such cases the cordial can be pasteurised at 65C for a minute or two and then (for prolonged storage as opposed to quick use) one can add half a metabisulphite (campden) tablet to each bottle. Alternatively one can add potassium sorbate - which some consider preferable and &quot;more natural&quot;. Both these compound inhibit yeast and bacterial growth and so will slow down (or stop) further natural fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of these methods is preferred then one can make cordial and store it in plastic bottles in the freezer. That will keep the cordial fresh and fragrant and all that is needed is defrosting before use. A friend recommends this method for elder-flower and uses an ice cube tray to make &quot;cordial cubes&quot; - once frozen the cubes are stored &quot;en masse&quot; in a freezer bag. Take some from the freezer as required and add to water or soda for a cool instant drink. No preservatives or boiling required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fruit cordials are essentially &quot;very watery fruit jam&quot;. The most important thing is to liquefy the fruit and dilute it sufficiently to allow it to be efficiently filtered/strained to remove the excess pulp/stones/pips/leaves/stalks, etc. Once the fruit is sufficiently pulped and strained then the resulting must can be brought to the boil, sweetened with sugar, bottled and stored. Blending or mashing followed by filtration are IMHO the important steps to extract the maximum fruit essence and produce a smooth drink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-08-03T17:59:37.253" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T17:59:37.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21722" CreationDate="2017-08-01T15:18:29.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never do anything to my grain bags. I was always taught that whatever goes into the pot doesn't need sanitizing because we boil it anyway. After use, I just wash them out with plain water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15233" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T15:18:29.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21723" CreationDate="2017-08-01T15:24:16.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not ideal, but not horrible. You will probably have good beer, but it may go bad faster than under optional conditions. If you drink your beer within 2-3 months, you should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15233" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T15:24:16.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21739" CreationDate="2017-08-01T17:01:12.847" Score="3" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked some wild blackberries, mashed them up with sugar and water, plus yeast and two campden tablets, and put these into a bucket and covered (loosely, with a t-shirt - that was probably my mistake), as per the recipe. Of course, this kind of thing is very attractive to flies. And when I uncovered the wine, to strain it, I saw maybe a half-dozen flies hovering around. I do not know what kind of flies they were. But how can I make sure that this batch has not been spoilt by this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15045" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T07:55:15.407" Title="Flies in wine before airlocking" Tags="|wine|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21738" CreationDate="2017-08-01T18:35:45.883" Score="0" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to do some hop analysis based on a single hop IPA with some dry hopping on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often drink some industrial beers simply based on Mosaic hop, and I do love it. But when i use it, it keeps me bringing so much passion fruit flavor and aroma, more than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some interaction with my malts chosen? I'm using carared, pilsen and melanoidin. Or it's related to the yeast (US-05)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14889" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T23:37:22.033" Title="Mosaic Hop Issue" Tags="|yeast|hops|malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10731" CreationDate="2017-08-01T19:47:47.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done it with black tea, lemon, and table sugar.  Use a champagne yeast and expect a long slow ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15287" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T19:47:47.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21736" CreationDate="2017-08-01T23:37:22.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're comparing to a beer produced in a brewery, it could be difference in types of hop used and freshness. Are you using whole hops or are you using pellets? Most homebrewers I know (myself included) use the hop pellets you get at your LHBS because they're the most available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could be wrong on this, but my understanding of hops besides whether they introduce bitterness or aroma into your beer, is independent on the type of malts or yeasts you use. The only thing I can think of that might affect hops and the flavour of your resulting beer is your water profile (tap water, bottled, filtered, etc) and its pH level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried experimenting with the amount of hops you're using? If you're finding the hops are too strong, try reducing the amount. A general rule of thumb if you're using a new hop is to add in about 1-2 oz (28-56g) to a five gallon batch (19L) and work your way up or down from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13021" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T23:37:22.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21735" CreationDate="2017-08-02T09:01:23.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO, the only real way to test a fermented product is by taste and smell. If the brew tastes and smells OK then it is fit to drink. If the brew tastes too acidic or sour then it is somewhat &quot;spoilt&quot;. How sour that can be is a matter of personal taste. If the brew tastes very slightly sour then it is sometimes possible to recover it by adding some calcium carbonate which can neutralise any acid present. If the brew tastes &quot;strange&quot; or musty then that too can be an off flavour caused by infection. Similarly with smell - very bad aromas indicate infection. However all tastes and smells are a matter of personal preference. I have still to find a fermented product that is actually poisonous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also worth remembering that a young wine can be &quot;less than optimal&quot; in flavour and aroma. Quite often just bottling the wine and leaving it to mature for a year will cure a multitude of problems and result in a wine that is quite palatable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general method fruit wines can be made by pasteurising the fruit in very hot water - or even by a very quick rolling boil of the mashed fruit and sugar. This will effectively sterilise the ingredients. Cool to room temperature before adding yeast. There is no need to add campden tablets using this method and that would be better for the initial yeast growth. The fruit wine should begin fermenting within a day and the ferment should be actively producing bubbles on the surface of the brew. If you intend to make much wine it would be better to get a brew bucket with a lid and an airlock. Of course one can always use a glass/plastic 5L demijohn or other suitable container with lid if one brews batches too small to fill a larger brew bin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-08-03T07:55:15.407" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T07:55:15.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21698" CreationDate="2017-08-02T10:47:40.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pitching insufficient or partially inactive yeast can cause prolonged fermentation periods. If the brew is still visibly fermenting then let it ferment to completion. I usually wait for at least 10 days before testing the SG of the brew to determine if it has completed and often wait for at least 14 days before attempting to keg or bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T10:47:40.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21742" CreationDate="2017-08-02T10:57:30.547" Score="3" ViewCount="446" Body="&lt;p&gt;My airlock today has a bug inside, I think it must have crawled in and died from an overdose of cheap Gin. Anyway, I was wondering, should I wait to clean out the airlock until I move to secondary or is it safe to remove it now, clean it and pop it back in? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T11:11:45.930" Title="Airlock has a bug inside" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21741" CreationDate="2017-08-02T11:11:45.930" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking it is safer to remove, clean/sterilise and replace the airlock. It should only take 30 seconds and the vent hole can be covered with an inverted glass to prevent any accidental ingress. If you have a spare airlock (they are cheap enough) then you can prepare and replace the offending item almost instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could &lt;em&gt;possibly&lt;/em&gt; leave the bug in the airlock and it &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; will not cause any problems after all there should be little &quot;suction&quot; on the airlock to cause a reverse flow. But be careful when removing the lid, bung or the air lock itself because this is the time when &quot;suck-back&quot; may happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T11:11:45.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10731" CreationDate="2017-08-02T14:18:02.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a tea brew with both white sugar and with brown sugar. So far only tried the brown sugar. I added 6 tea bags and 500g of sugar to 2 litres, making about 12% abv. I recommend adding less tea as it can become very bitterish/strong almost like a vodka in a weird way. It does get you drunk fast tho but only good for shots. If I were you I'd try it with about 100g of sugar per 1 litre to get an Abv of 5%ish and also use less tea bags maybe 2 teabag per 1 litre so that it is a drinkable brew. Back sweeten at the end and it should be all good &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14838" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T14:18:02.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-03T06:45:57.543" Score="3" ViewCount="2312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create a fruit saison, I used some interesting hops (centenial and citra) and intend to rack to secondary ontop of the fruit puree (I will also dry hop with citra).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question I now have is when do I need to rack to secondary? The questions here &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5044/fruit-beer-when-to-rack-to-secondary&quot;&gt;Fruit Beer: When to rack to secondary?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;states 2-3 weeks, but does not really say what I'm looking for to see (e.g. a certain gravity). Saison is notoriously slow for fermentation (wyeast 3427). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if anyone could give me some indication what to look out for that would be great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that I would need help with is: how much fruit (apricots in syrup) do I use? My batch is about 30 liters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-08-03T17:23:07.220" LastActivityDate="2017-08-04T12:12:35.467" Title="Creating a fruit saison: when to add the fruit and rack to secondary?" Tags="|beer|fruit|racking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21744" CreationDate="2017-08-03T17:22:31.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general you should wait for fermentation to be completed in the primary, then rack to your secondary.  So it means waiting to have a stable specific gravity for 3 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, I don't think you need to wait any longer to allow yeast to clean the byproducts of fermentation, as it can be done in the secondary as well.  Yeast will do it's job, no matter if it is a primary or a secondary...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has also been discussed here : &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/88/if-when-to-move-to-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;If/When to move to secondary fermentation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-08-04T02:21:19.850" LastActivityDate="2017-08-04T02:21:19.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21744" CreationDate="2017-08-03T20:33:24.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're racking onto fruit then a second fermentation from the fruit is expected, so the main thing you need to wait for is a noticeable active fermentation to end.  The main reason for this is that heavy fermentation will pull off the fruit aromas you're trying to keep as the CO2 leaves solution.  For a fast fermenting yeast you might need to wait 3 days, for a slower one maybe 2+ wweks.  If you're looking for the simplest answer, then I'd say as soon as the krausen has subsided you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that; racking to secondary is not necessarily required.  Pulling your brew off the trub is more of an issue with breweries, as yeast autolysis occurs more quickly when there is higher volumes of beer.  On a homebrewing level, you should not start to see significant autolysis for multiple months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13545" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T20:33:24.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21750" CreationDate="2017-08-03T23:19:14.667" Score="6" ViewCount="3824" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00AOCKWMU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this refractometer&lt;/a&gt; recently. Haven't used a different one before and I'm new to home brewing in general. I was dry hopping my beer that's fermenting and decided to take a reading but it was very difficult to differentiate where the line was. There wasn't a harsh transition between white and blue. The picture on the left is as taken, the one on the right is after boosting contrast a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5tDfn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5tDfn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the reading from the wort after boiling back on Saturday. It's much easier to read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8IarS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8IarS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot was different between the two readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clear line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unfermented wort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I believe I let it cool down a bit and didn't take it when hot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 overhead ceiling light fixtures with LED bulbs and diffuse glass at night.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuzzy Line:&#xA; - Fermenting wort, krausen starting to go away&#xA; - LED bulbs in recessed cans but in general the lighting in the room is more difuse.&#xA; - Temp about 71 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both times grabbed a few drops with the included pipette after sterilizing it. Everything else was pretty much the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I not using it correctly? Sample appeared to cover the area well both times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15220" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T21:06:37.633" Title="Why is my refractometer hard to read?" Tags="|refractometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21744" CreationDate="2017-08-04T12:12:35.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is really no right or wrong answer here, especially with the anecdotal (and some scientific) evidence coming to light over the past years. Most books on homebrewing, and indeed most advice online, on adding fruit repeats the advice given for dry hopping: Wait until active fermentation has stopped (no bubbling out of the airlock, gravity is stable over a couple of days) in order to minimize the amount of flavor compounds lost through CO2. This advice mainly aims at introducing &quot;pure&quot; fruit aroma which might fade pretty quickly with time. Recently more and more people have started adding fruit either at the time of pitching the yeast or some other time during active fermentation in order to get an interaction between yeast and fruit aroma compounds. The same trend can be seen in dry hopping where this is usually referred to as biotransformation.&#xA;I have definitely had good experiences with either process but I suggest that you try out what works best for you on a small scale. Especially with something like a puree which can easily be split, I would recommend using small fermentation vessel (resealable food containers, or similar) to try out different times to add fruit and different exposure times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastActivityDate="2017-08-04T12:12:35.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21748" CreationDate="2017-08-04T12:18:30.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that the refractometer line comes out fuzzy if the transparent lip is not flush with the prism. This can be due to particulates which introduce a distance, CO2 in the solution which creates bubbles or small air pockets. Usually lifting the lip and letting it drop into the sample a couple of times does the trick. Measuring cold fermenting wort at a higher room temperature will result in CO2 coming out of solution, so bumping the refractometer usually helps with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also important to note that refractometers are usually calibrated to a certain temperature. If your device has active temperature compensation, it is necessary to wait a little while for prism and sample to reach an equilibrium temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastActivityDate="2017-08-04T12:18:30.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21748" CreationDate="2017-08-04T13:31:18.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO answer to this question is that the fluid under test is &quot;opaque&quot;and so the reading line is &quot;diffuse&quot;. The opaque nature is usually due to yeast being present and it is better to test a clear(er) solution. Sometimes this is down to bubbles but they can usually be cleared by pressing on the sample cover plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-08-04T13:31:18.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-04T20:18:08.647" Score="1" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;Title basically says it all; I'm thinking about putting about a 16th to an 8th of a teaspoon of dry champagne yeast in a 16oz grolsch bottle mostly full of orange juice, shaking it up, and letting it sit in my closet for 24 to 48 hours to see if It'll make ultra quick and cheap soda. Anybody ever tried this or have some info I'm missing if I think this will work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I specified dry champagne yeast because I've used that for gingerale, but if there's a better type of yeast for my purposes then please, let me know. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15298" LastActivityDate="2017-08-05T07:57:34.227" Title="Will I get quick and easy fruit soda if I just add yeast to fruit juice and leave it in a closed fermenter for a day or two?" Tags="|carbonation|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21752" CreationDate="2017-08-05T07:57:34.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This method does work but can be rather dangerous - mainly because it is hard to judge the carbonation of the &quot;soda&quot; and the glass bottle might become over pressurised. This danger can be alleviated using some basic precautions. It would be far better to use plastic PET (fizzy drinks) bottles than glass bottles. The reason being that one can test the pressure of the bottle by giving it a squeeze. That and the fact that &quot;exploding&quot; plastic bottles are not nearly as dangerous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to make cheap soda is by using a measured amount of sugar with the yeast. I generally use about 150g of sugar to carbonate 20L of beer. I use 350-400g of sugar to carbonate 20L of fizzy wine (champagne method). Using these base measurements one might make up a solution of (say) 10g sugar/glucose in 1L of water. If the juice already has this amount of sugar present then it might be directly fermented - but be warned most juices contain more than this. If it has more then it may over ferment and might need dilution to be used &quot;safely&quot;, if it has less then one can add sugar to the brew to achieve carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternative one could make up the required sugar water base and flavour it with syrup or fruit squash- but again check the sugar content of the squash and adjust as needed. Fruit juice with little sugar (eg lemon juice) would add big flavour but little to the carbonation process and so is an &quot;ideal&quot; flavouring agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible flavouring agent is the use of home made jam. It contains sugar and fruit flavour so is a useful base for fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the yeast will ferment most sugars it can be difficult to predictably and stably sweeten the drink. To do this easily one can use a non-fermentable sweetener. Some prefer lactose or artificial sweeteners but I have found that stevia liquid is a good, low cost option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-08-05T07:57:34.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21761" CreationDate="2017-08-06T22:58:31.083" Score="2" ViewCount="739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did my last batch of extract lately and aiming to make all grain from now on. Since my biggest stainless cauldron has 12 or 13 liters capacity, I realised that my 5 gallon carboy wasn't fit for my situation, so I bought a 3 gallon on Kijiji. You may already see my problem here ;) The preboil volume must be higher than that. I red somewhere that it would be something like 4 gallons for a 3 gallons batch (&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/17546/calculate-preboil-volume&quot;&gt;Theres a more precise way to evaluate this&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is : Is there a &quot;workaround&quot; for my situation or I'm just doomed and have to buy a 100-200$ 5 gallons pot? Can I just add water afterward ? I guess not.. Any magical tricks? lol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT : &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1154/partial-vs-full-volume-wort-boil?noredirect=1&amp;amp;lq=1&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This post&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is also a good ressource for this topic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14457" LastEditorUserId="14457" LastEditDate="2017-08-07T19:47:39.733" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T21:19:02.073" Title="Preboil volume doesn't fit my pot" Tags="|beer|all-grain|boil|beginner|brewpot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21755" CreationDate="2017-08-07T05:39:21.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can add water directly to the fermenter, but that water has to be sterilized (always) and chilled (unless you're practicing no-chill). Theoretically, higher gravity boil would facilitate Mailard reactions etc, but as you've just started brewing it's the least of your worries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller pre-boil volume, however, means lower extraction efficiency, because that &quot;extra water&quot; ideally comes from sparging. So you need to adjust your recipes to that efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably, lower hop utilization rate will occur, but I don't think it will have any real impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all that, it is still going to be rather uncomfortable using 13-liters kettle, if you intend to fill it to the brim (as you will likely have to). My personal preference is to have 1/4-1/3 of kettle free space above the boiling liquor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2017-08-07T05:39:21.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21785" CreationDate="2017-08-07T06:54:16.120" Score="5" ViewCount="4076" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I make a large batch of wine and fill maybe two or three demijohns, sometimes four. I don't know how many demijohns I can fill until I've filled them. That means, sometimes I end up with an extra two pints or something of unfermented wine. I have avoided putting this juice/sugar/yeast mixture into a demijohn since I have been believing that a demijohn somehow needs to actually be filled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Come to think of it, I don't where I picked up a belief like that. And I wanted to ask if it's true, or if it's perfectly fine to let my wine ferment in a half-full demijohn. ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15045" LastActivityDate="2022-09-25T06:49:33.610" Title="Is air at the top of a demijohn harmful?" Tags="|primary-fermentation|mash-volume|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21757" CreationDate="2017-08-07T08:03:58.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxygen can always be a problem, and indeed, the less headspace you have on your demijohn the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For beer, I know that I can add 4 g of sugar per liter of headspace to get the fermentation going a little bit again, to clean the air out of the demijohn. I do not have enough experience with wine if there is also still enough yeast in suspension to do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is to fill all your demijohns almost up to the brim, and then put the rest of the wine in a PET bottle, and squeeze the air out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and now I see in the last line that it is about fermenting. Like mentioned in the preceding lines, 4 g of sugar gives (appr) 1 liter of CO2. If you have 2L of juice with a Brix value of 10°, which means 10g of sugar on 100g of solution, that would mean that you would have appr. 200 g of sugar in this 2L of juice, then the fermentation would generate more than 40L of CO2, well enough to clean out most demijohns, except the biggest, I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="15045" LastEditDate="2020-10-19T19:47:40.670" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T19:47:40.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21757" CreationDate="2017-08-07T09:24:06.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO one can ferment perfectly well in a half filled demijohn. Filling a demijohn completely when fermenting can lead to airlock problems if the fermentation is vigorous - which most initially are. So some space above the ferment in demijohn is a useful thing. 7/8 and 3/4 full are common situations and I have fermented wine in a approximately half full demijohn - for exactly the reasons stated in the question. The wine in the partially filled vessel tasted just like the wine in the mostly filled vessel.I have done this several times for different wines and several beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO Oxygen and &lt;em&gt;fermenting&lt;/em&gt; liquids are not such bad company as one might be lead to believe....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-08-07T09:24:06.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11186" CreationDate="2017-08-07T12:42:10.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I must admit, I am not an expert in home brewing but I do work in the pub trade and whenever we encounter customers whom have problems with beer head retention or glass lacing, the first place we generally investigate is their glasses and glass washing equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most primarily, we look at the quality of their glass washer and how it is debris build-up on glasses. Often we find that with well used glasses that they appear clean to the eye, but on further analysis they are suffering from limescale deposits and build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a couple of images here which might help you to see what we normally encounter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.industrial-warewashers.com/knowledgebase/article/glass-conditions-and-the-effect-on-quality-of-beer-pints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.industrial-warewashers.com/knowledgebase/article/glass-conditions-and-the-effect-on-quality-of-beer-pints/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15301" LastActivityDate="2017-08-07T12:42:10.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21755" CreationDate="2017-08-07T16:12:20.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you been using your 5 gallon carboy for the extract batches?  Partial (concentrated) boil and split boil are popular techniques for filling a fermenter that's larger than your kettle.  Whatever method you may have been using to fill that 5 gallon carboy from smaller boil kettles could continue to work for your all-grain batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 13L kettle should be big enough to do a partial boil for the 3 gallon carboy.  10L is both a comfortable amount to boil in a 13L kettle and to ferment in a 3 gallon carboy with a reasonable amount of headspace.  The boiled wort would only need to be diluted with enough water to restore what was lost to boiloff.  You can even shortcut the dilution calculation which would normally be required. Set your pre-boil gravity to your desired Original Gravity, because they'll be the same after you've restored the water that boiled off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to target the 5 gallon fermenter with just one 13L kettle, I would recommend a partial mash technique.  This is similar to what Roman was describing where you boil a small amount of high-gravity wort and then add sterilized water in the carboy.  With partial mash, you can target a lower gravity from your mash and then bring it up to your intended boil gravity by adding a small amount of extract.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a split boil, you'll have equal amounts of wort in two kettles.  When it comes time to add hops or other boil additions, just put half in each kettle.  A pair of 13L kettles would be just barely big enough to comfortably boil enough wort to fill your 5 gallon carboy, assuming you mean that the total volume of the carboy is 5 gallons and you're putting about 4.5 gallons (17L) of wort in it to leave some head space.  If you don't have another 13L pot but you do have one that's at least 7L or so, you could do a split boil for that 3 gallon carboy.  5-6L in each pot pre-boil should boil down to a good amount of wort for that carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do a split boil from all-grain, make sure that you run off your wort from the mash into a single larger vessel before splitting it or switch the run off back and forth between the two boil kettles so that they have a similar gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, if you're planning on targeting the 3 gallon carboy you should be able to find a no-frills 20qt or 24qt stainless steel stock pot for under $100 CAD.  Then you can just do a full boil and not hassle with any of that extra work I described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6057" LastEditorUserId="6057" LastEditDate="2017-08-23T21:19:02.073" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T21:19:02.073" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21763" CreationDate="2017-08-07T21:13:22.313" Score="3" ViewCount="687" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make a delicious British Golden Ale with about 10% corn in the grist.  Thus far I have only used flaked maize for this corn component.  I guess the different forms of corn for a beer would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flaked maize&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corn meal (requiring a cereal mash)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Popped corn (popped with an air popper, not oil)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will these various options produce roughly the same results in terms of flavor/aroma/etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T00:20:38.977" Title="The different forms of corn" Tags="|ingredients|corn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21762" CreationDate="2017-08-08T00:20:38.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The big issue with corn is the germ, which is &lt;em&gt;relatively&lt;/em&gt; high in fat (at least compared to other brewing grains).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Flaked maize&lt;/em&gt; - this will always have the germ and the husk, removed. It is basically pure corn endosperm, which is mostly starch and a small amount of protein. It contains very little fat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Corn meal&lt;/em&gt; - this may or may not have the germ, the husk, or both, removed before being ground. If you find cornmeal that is ground from de-husked and de-germed corn, it should behave much like flaked maze &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; a cereal mash (as you rightly predict). If you happen to use whole cornmeal (which includes the germ and husk) it will not give the same result as flaked maize. The corn flavor will be different, probably more pronounced, though maybe not hugely. With whole cornmeal, the fat from the germ may tend to go rancid, so make sure it is fresh. It may also have a negative effect on the foam quality of the resulting beer, though as long as you don't run off very aggressively this impact may not be too bad. It's going to depend on how much you use and how you treat it, though. Certain lipids, when oxidized during mashing, also lead to cardboard-y, stale flavors in finished beer, detectable at one part in &lt;em&gt;ten billion&lt;/em&gt;, so even minute increases in lipids can dramatically effect the flavor stability of your finished beer. The fine grinding of the germ, if present, will do nothing to help this situation. I'd expect a beer made with whole cornmeal to lose its freshness pretty fast, depending on the proportion of corn used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Popcorn&lt;/em&gt; - Same as whole cornmeal, this will contain the germ and the husk, and as such will probably give you a more 'robust' corn flavor. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9681/use-pop-corn-as-an-adjunct?rq=1&quot;&gt;this related question&lt;/a&gt; for some first-hand experiences. I imagine that, since the germ tends to remain largely within the husk in popped corn, and neither will be ground, it shouldn't give you too much trouble in terms of head retention or off-flavors (see above, re: whole cornmeal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I don't see any real reason not to experiment with any of these, just be aware of the potential issues when using whole cornmeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T00:20:38.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6333" CreationDate="2017-08-08T14:35:45.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always preferred the Chrome Ferrules over the brass inserts.  For one it is easier to install the ferrules correctly.  The inserts can sometimes go in a little bit crooked which really throws it off and then the handles is pretty much done fore.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  With the ferrules it's just a matter of drilling a smaller hole and screwing in the bolt.  Also I find the ferrules will go a lot longer before they come loose, if they do at all.  Then it is an easy fix compared to trying to re drill a hole for a brass insert.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  You can buy the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.halfyankeeworkshop.com/collections/tap-handle-parts/products/chrome-ferrule&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ferrules and hanger bolts&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15304" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T14:35:45.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2017-08-08T18:35:24.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised no one mentioned GrogTag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make your own design or pick a template to customize on their site - they print and ship to you. The reason I really like these labels is that they come off super easy and are reuseable - they will stick on to bottles over and over, and if you write on them with appropriate marker you can wipe it off. So I made a blank(ish) design with my homebrewery name and logo, spaces for the brew name, OG, IBU, ABV, brewed on date, notes, etc. so I can write in the details for each brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The labels come out really nice. I've ordered special ones for brews I'm taking to office parties etc. and they really look professional and are usually a hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11931" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T18:35:24.997" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2017-08-08T18:35:24.997" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21766" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-08T18:49:12.440" Score="1" ViewCount="2436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been doing research on making a hard soda but I am never able to find anything that is able to completely describe the process, I have a bottle of orange extract that I would like to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there specific measures of sugar to water I would use and could pure cane sugar be used? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also how long would something like this ferment and at what temperature?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lastly would Ale yeast be used or a wine/ champagne yeast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15305" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-08-08T19:26:43.900" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T15:14:21.610" Title="How to make Hard Soda" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|sugar|soda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21748" CreationDate="2017-08-08T21:06:37.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably fuzzy because the CO², you may try to transfer the beer from a cup to another, about 20 times, to make it go away, then try to read again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to do alcohol correction, using this (or other) calculator (based on OG):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14889" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T21:06:37.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21766" CreationDate="2017-08-09T15:52:43.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any fermentable sugar can be used to ferment. Sucrose, glucose, maltose, honey, corn syrup and cane sugar are all good examples. Molasses treacle and candi sugar are other more flavoured examples. Ultimately most ripe sweet fruits will ferment themselves - like grapes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are trying to carbonate your drink then adding up to 10g of sugar to a 1 Litre bottle is about right for a good fizzy drink. Add less (eg 5-6g) for a less fizzy drink. If the juice being fermented has a higher concentration of sugars then one can dilute the juice or watch the progress of fermenting very carefully and drink before the bottle gets too pressurised. Many shop brought juices have around 100g of sugar per litre of juice. So they would be problematic to ferment without lots of timely attention. Supermarket apple juice will (for example) make good and quite alcoholic cider. Sweeter juices could be diluted but that may detract from the strength of the flavour. Its a catch22 situation. I have used about 75ml of lemon juice in 1L of water/10g sugar. It makes cloudy lemonade. Very nice and economic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use fruit purees or concentrates then the base fizzy liquid is made up as above and the fruit flavouring added to about 10% or so by volume. Some very (artificial) flavoured concentrates just need a good squirt into the bottle. Again watch the sugar content and adjust your ferment as needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general sodas will carbonate well in 3 days or so. A week is &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; than enough if the soda is kept in a warm (room temperature) place. 18-20C is a good range but fermentation can go on up to (say) 35C or as low as 5C (but it will take much longer to complete). Once carbonated it can help to store the bottle in a fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem with making sodas is the sweetness. If one uses sugar to sweeten then the sugar can also ferment away. This means the flavour changes over time and is optimal during a period of a few days only. This is normally handled by drinking the soda when ready and not storing &quot;old stock&quot;. It can also be handled by adding a non-fermenting sweetener like Stevia - it's organic and not a &quot;chemical&quot; like many artificial sweeteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would tend to use champagne yeast for a cleaner flavour but to be honest for strongly flavoured sodas almost any yeast (including baking yeast) will do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would STRONGLY recommend the use of 1L PET fizzy drinks bottles and not glass bottles. Plastic bottles can be squeezed to check the pressure and if all goes wrong they produce next to no dangerous &quot;glass shrapnel&quot;. Bottle bombs are a bad thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if soda is what is wanted I should recommend the use of &quot;Real Ginger Beer plant&quot; instead of just yeast.Or water kefir (tibicos). All of these are a SCOBY (!?!) and are just great for making ginger beer and many similar flavoured drinks on a continuous production basis using a 5L demijohn. You may be able to find a supplier near you can can sell you some starter grains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T15:52:43.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21774" CreationDate="2017-08-09T16:59:20.147" Score="2" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is distilled water a necessity? I live in Louisville and we have some of the best water in the world.(hence our amazing whiskey) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14531" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T13:52:01.620" Title="Water- distilled or not?" Tags="|beer|water|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21770" CreationDate="2017-08-09T17:19:34.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Short answer: No.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, if your water is good to drink, it's  good to make beer as well. I also have access to good water and I don't find it makes any difference on my finished product when I use distilled water instead. If your water has too much minerals or wrong pH, you can still use it after you treat and/or filter it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T17:19:34.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21770" CreationDate="2017-08-09T19:55:37.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always used Tap water. With no issues. When you boil it in the beginning it   takes care of all of the issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T19:55:37.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15831" CreationDate="2017-08-09T20:42:04.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is way off topic, but is shows how much power an exploding 2 liter soda bottle can have. When in graduate school I knew some guys who made a cannon with one. They filled it partway full of liquid nitrogen (our physics lab had a lot) and put the cap on. They dropped it into a piece of pipe that was slightly larger than the bottle and was capped on one end, then dropped a length of 4x4 on top of it for ammunition. When the cannon went off the 4x4 went over the building next door and into a parking lot that they couldn't see. They were absolutely terrified that it had so much power and that they could have killed somebody with it that they never tried anything like that again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14959" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T20:42:04.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21770" CreationDate="2017-08-09T21:21:09.430" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is very little confusion about water.  Either it tastes good, as Phillipe said, or it does not.  If your municipal water source is clean and tastes good all you are needing is to make sure it is sterile.  If you have concerns about the chemical components in your water the you can get a detailed report from your water company for free.  Most problems people associate with water quality actually are more often a result of brewer error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15225" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T21:21:09.430" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21776" CreationDate="2017-08-09T21:29:11.463" Score="3" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have advanced to a very prolific brewer and have mastered many aspects of home brewing.  For some reason I seem to be unable to master the issue of Specific Gravity.  Try as I may, I just do not grasp it and as a result always keep my beer in fermentation longer than necessary.  Any suggestions to help a slow learner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15225" LastActivityDate="2017-08-10T13:56:12.170" Title="Refractometer or options?" Tags="|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21775" CreationDate="2017-08-10T12:42:30.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is very general, but I can point you in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Specific_gravity&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Specific gravity&lt;/a&gt; (SG) is the ratio of the density of a substance to the density of a reference substance.  In homebrewing we measure sugars (fermentable or not) in wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We measure it using an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrometer&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydrometer&lt;/a&gt; or/and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refractometer&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;refractometer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few good articles on how to measure gravity :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.kegerator.com/specific-gravity/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://learn.kegerator.com/specific-gravity/&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2015/01/30/calculating-original-gravity-for-beer-recipe-design/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://beersmith.com/blog/2015/01/30/calculating-original-gravity-for-beer-recipe-design/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do we need to measure it : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To determine potential alcohol level in wort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To determine when fermentation is finished&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine that fermentation is completed, when aim to get a stable SG 3 days in a row (unless we suspect a stuck fermentation, which is another question).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine the potential alcohol, we need the original SG or OG (measured before fermentation) and the finishing SG or FG (measure at the end of fermentation).  There are 2 (popular) ways to calculate it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABV = 132 * (OG-FG) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABV = (OG-FG) / 0.00753&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend that you start with an hydrometer which is not expensive and easy to use.  Later if you want more options, you can buy an refreactometer wich costs at least twice as much (depending on the quality).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-08-10T13:56:12.170" LastActivityDate="2017-08-10T13:56:12.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21784" CreationDate="2017-08-11T10:19:03.873" Score="3" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm hopefully about to make my first batch of sparkling slightly sweet cider. I have read all sorts of advice about reducing/increase tannin, stabilising and other scientific stuff. I want to keep it simple as possible first time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I got a rough grasp of the process and please correct any steps I have wrong? I will be sterilising all equipment and will try to stay as clean as possible. Based on 5 gallon batch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After juicing add 4/5 campden tablets to 27 litre fermentation bucket, leave in warm place for 24hrs?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mix in yeast and add cider nutrient and pectolase? Do I add artificial non fermenting sweetner at this point, if so how much? Along with 3/4lbs sugar? Hope to achieve 6-7% abv.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Half fill bubbler air lock with water should I add campden to this solution? Move to storage around 20°C - 25°C for 10 -14 days or bubbles stop. Take hydro reading.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bottle into glass bottles and add one tea spoon sugar and cap off. Leave for  24/48 hours in warm place, before moving to cooler steady place?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How long before cider is drinkable, I would rather wait rather than rush it. Anything I should do to give it a rich toffee flavour? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think some of the process is not required please say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please feel free to point out the obvious I've missed. Is the process the same for filling demijohn's I have siphons and bottlers with sediment traps. Do I leave bubbler in demijohn or replace with rubber bung after fermenting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All advice greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Craig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15312" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-08-11T20:41:20.383" LastActivityDate="2017-08-12T08:50:45.647" Title="Helping a first timer!" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|carbonation|cider|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21777" CreationDate="2017-08-11T20:16:25.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;IMHO you don't need to add campden tablets to any active fermentation. They are not needed at that stage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;when you have the juice take the OG using a hydrometer. If it is about 1.050 - 1.080 then that will have sufficient sugar to ferment to an alcoholic cider. Only add sugar if the SG is low (say 1.030-1.040). Yeast nutrient is rarely needed and can usually be omitted from freshly made juice ferments. Not much point in adding artificial sweetener at the start - do it after fermentation is finished. Then you will know how much to add for you desired flavour. I recommend Stevia extract. Natural and &quot;organic&quot;!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bubbles in airlock stopping is not a good measure of the end of fermentation.  A stable hydrometer reading over 3 days is a better measure of completion of fermentation. However no real need to measure every day. Wait for (say) 10 days at least and then measure periodically. Even 3 weeks is not too long a time to wait for cider to finish primary fermentation. You can add campden tablet to the airlock but it is not needed. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can bottle in glass or PET bottles as preferred. One heaped teaspoon of sugar per bottle is not a bad priming measure. Alternatively dissolve 150g of sugar or glucose (better maybe) in 24 litres of cider (75g for 2.5 gals, etc) and then bottle. Leave at least one week in a warm room and preferably 2 weeks for the bottle to carbonate/condition. Many people prefer to bottle a little early and let the bottle carbonate without added sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rich toffee flavour? You could add caramel, but better to choose the variety of apples to give a desired flavour. French/Normandy cidre has that type of flavour. All ciders should be left for (say) 1 year (yes one year) to condition correctly and nicely. Its easy to drink before that but it will not be very &quot;nice&quot;. It will still get one drunk though....&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An airlock is always OK on a demijohn - when ever it is. A bung is OK after all fermentation has finished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-08-11T20:43:26.180" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T20:43:26.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21777" CreationDate="2017-08-11T20:52:56.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Barking Pete you could likely skip step 1, but if you do wish to add campden and let stand for 24 hours this is when I would be adding the pectolase to let it get a good start on breaking down those pesky pectins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also regarding step 2 I would not use any yeast nutrient, unless I was going for an extra dry cider. Apples have more than enough FAN to finish a good fermentation, and by not adding any you are increasing your chances of finishing on the sweeter side. Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?pid=S1516-89132011000300017&amp;amp;script=sci_arttext&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt; for FAN provided by multiple apple strains and the effect on completion of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T20:52:56.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21696" CreationDate="2017-08-11T21:15:47.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could only find this &lt;a href=&quot;https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/chandigarh/Hops-turn-bitter-for-growers-in-Lahaul/articleshow/21589742.cms&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;, I tell a lie, I have found a few more &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oneindia.com/2009/10/20/hopscultivation-becoming-popular-with-himachalfarmers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this from 2009&lt;/a&gt;, you could maybe talk to the people who put up &lt;a href=&quot;https://medicinalplantinindia.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/hops-humulus-lupulus-sale-in-india.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post last&lt;/a&gt; year advertising hop plants for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also maybe contact some of the Indian homebrew suppliers and see if they know anyone in the industry who can help. If you find out please provide an answer here, I would love to know, as homebrewing seems to be taking off in India and I expect more questions like this over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewof.com/contact-us/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.brewof.com/contact-us/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewmart.in/contact-us/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewmart.in/contact-us/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diybrew.in/page/contact-us&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.diybrew.in/page/contact-us&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T21:15:47.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21777" CreationDate="2017-08-12T08:50:45.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it is really necessary to add pectolase to the pressed apple juice at all. This is a modern commercial brewing invention that maximised return when using a vast amount of less than optimal apples in the pressing process. Traditionally English cider was made by mashing the apples and then pressing the mush inside sack cloth &quot;pancakes&quot; often interspersed with straw to enable free draining of the juice. The juice was then naturally fermented (without added yeast or sugar), bottled/casked and conditioned for 12 months. It is still quite possible to make it like this today - and many still do. The flavour comes from the variety of apples used and a mix of apples is often better than using one variety. However all flavours are personal preferences so I encourage people to experiment with different methods and mixes. If at first you don't succeed....&#xA;It might be said that the flavour of cider comes from both the apples and the fermenting agents. In naturally produced cider, yeast is just one of the active fermentation agents. Other fungi and bacteria can also play an important role. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2017-08-12T08:50:45.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21757" CreationDate="2017-08-12T08:59:33.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never had a problem with fermenting wine, beer or soda in a part filled demijohn in several years of brewing. To be fair, I have never fermented anything in a demijohn less than 1/3 full, but I have fermented many brews in demijohns that are 1/2 - 3/4 full. All turned out as expected (or nearly so...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-08-13T11:25:29.217" LastActivityDate="2017-08-13T11:25:29.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21789" CreationDate="2017-08-12T15:15:27.233" Score="4" ViewCount="7570" Body="&lt;p&gt;During sugar priming, how does the temperature influence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my understanding, higher the temperature, faster the carbonation process. But can this somehow produce some off-flavors on the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too high temperatures can damage the yeasts and prejudice the carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, what is the ideal temperature for carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am brewing an ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15276" LastEditorUserId="15276" LastEditDate="2017-08-12T18:22:36.013" LastActivityDate="2017-08-13T11:22:06.137" Title="What is the ideal temperature during carbonation with priming for an ale?" Tags="|carbonation|temperature|temperature-control|priming|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21786" CreationDate="2017-08-12T19:23:49.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Optimal about 18C-20C. But almost any temperature between 5 and 25 will work. If cooler then it takes longer. It is possible to go higher but there may be some more fruity esters produced although not very much... Best keep it at lower temperature range of 15-20C for about two weeks or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-08-12T19:23:49.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21786" CreationDate="2017-08-13T11:22:06.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct when you say the warmer the brews are stored the faster carbonation will complete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation is a mini fermentation, so ideally you would want it to complete around the same temperature as you brewed your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher temperatures for carbonation can produce or accelerate the production of of flavours in multiple ways, the first that comes to mind is higher temperatures can stress the yeasts, so for an ale yeast anything over 22C and it will produce 'off-flavours', but some of these esters or higher alcohols may be a desired flavour of the style. Secondly, storing warmer will accelerate the formation of aldehydes by the strecker reaction, ie paper flavours, so once you have allowed enough time for carbonation to complete, move the bottle to a nice cool location for longer term storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too high temperatures can damage the yeasts and prejudice the carbonation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would have to be above 38C to harm an ale yeast enough to affect carbonation, at these temps the yeast would be very unhappy and start to die. If it were a lager yeast then anything about 30 could be harmful, and start killing off the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally for your ale carb up at 15-25C, for 10 days; then store somewhere nice and cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-08-13T11:22:06.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-14T06:27:43.047" Score="3" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;My idea is that instead of using pure oxygen to reach higher DO levels (fx 12ppm) one could use aeration that will only reach 8ppm. But since the purpose is to give the yeast access to enough oxygen that it will use for reproduction the yeast will consume the oxygen in the wort and if we by aeration keeps the DO level there would be the same amount of oxygen available to the yeast eventually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an feasible approach? And if so how long should one aerate in order to get the benefits of higher DO levels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14579" LastActivityDate="2017-08-15T18:05:18.760" Title="Is **long** wort aeration a feasible alternative to using pure oxygen?" Tags="|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21790" CreationDate="2017-08-14T12:58:14.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it definitely should be a feasible method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast will rapidly (within a matter of hours) consume the oxygen that has been provided, at which point you may provide it more and it will happily accept. The important point in determining the quality of the subsequent fermentation, as you suggest, should be how much oxygen the yeast consumes in total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few practicalities, however, that may make doing this accurately somewhat difficult:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How you provide aeration can matter a lot. I used to do this by shaking a full carboy. The initial aeration is not so difficult, but once fermentation gets going (which ideally will be very rapidly) carbon dioxide will almost immediate begin to saturate the wort. This means that, if you go to shake to aerate more several hours later (say somewhere between 2-12), you can potentially have a gushing mess on your hands. Even if you are using an air pump with a stone, this may cause violent foaming.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a dissolved oxygen meter, you won't have any way of knowing how much oxygen remains unused by the yeast when you add more. So you won't have any good way of determining how much oxygen &lt;em&gt;in total&lt;/em&gt; has been added. In general, this should be fine since over-oxygenation isn't a huge concern in home-brewing and it's typically better for us to ere on the side of caution (more oxygen, rather than less). It will just become a matter of trial-and-error to see what works best for your particular fermentation techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mbaa.com/publications/tq/tqPastIssues/1999/Abstracts/tq99ab22.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Experiments have suggested&lt;/a&gt; that the optimum time to oxygenate your wort is actually a number of hours after yeast pitching. These experiments also suggest that when added at the optimal time, the amount of oxygen needed may be as little as half that needed when adding right at yeast pitching (i.e. if you used 16 ppm at pitching you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; only need 8 ppm added at 4 hours to achieve an identical fermentation). This is most likely due to the yeast membranes becoming increasingly functional as they move out of the 'hibernation' (or stationary) phase into active fermentation, and so becoming better able to utilize any given amount of oxygen as time progresses (up to a point). So you may see how this effect could lead to difficulty accurately matching the amount of oxygen added to the amount needed by the yeast when adding over a period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'[H]ow long should one aerate in order to get the benefits of higher DO levels?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would actually suggest doing oxygen addition in 'batches', or discrete additions, several hours apart, rather than as one continuous addition. If you have a method you're fairly confident is saturating your wort (i.e. to ~8 ppm oxygen) start with that, then repeat that maybe 4 hours later. I would play around quite a bit too (try it at 2, 4, 6 hours &amp;c; try it for half or a quarter of the initial time; stuff like that). Every yeast strain has its own particular needs for oxygen, and will react differently to receiving more oxygen some time after the initial dose (in any given wort, no less) so saying just how much you need to oxygenate and when is basically impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T12:58:14.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21770" CreationDate="2017-08-14T13:52:01.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am firmly in the camp of water adjusters, as I am convinced that any water can make beer but only great water makes great beer. First hand experience with a good local brewery which had to switch their water source following a dry summer has only solidified my experience so far. &#xA;Definitely follow Rory's advice of getting a water analysis sheet from your local water company in order to know what you are working with. I have found the book Water: A Comprehensive Guide for Brewers by J. Palmer and C. Kaminski a very helpful guide. Another de-facto standard with advanced homebrewers (and some professionals) is Martin Brungard's Bru'n Water sheet, there is a free and a donation version with very little difference. His website also offers some insight into water chemistry: &lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T13:52:01.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2227" CreationDate="2017-08-14T14:42:06.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a Belgian triple kit from Williams brew, Bavarian yeast, that I left in a carboy secondary for 5 months.  Recipe called for about three weeks.  It's supposed to bottle condition.  I could see some slow fermentation going on initially.  Then I could just tell there was positive pressure on the air lock.  I figured that meant I had some CO2 formation month one and was sealed.  Why I didn't bottle, laziness, didn't want to bother.  One day the airlock was empty the water had gotten sucked back into the brew.  I added more and it poured straight through the lock into the carboy.  I figured I had pushed it as far as I should.  Everything seemed normal when I bottled and the brew was clear but I'm bottle conditioning, that isn't necessarily a good thing, also this was an 8.5% kit.  After bottling carbonation was supposed to be done in 9 days, opened one up and it was very flat, had a kick to it but a no notable fizz.  I did tests and the carbonation time was more like a month.  The beer did cloud up which a Belgian should do and very little yeast sediment at all when empty.  It was good stuff, really good.  So you can go a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15322" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-08-14T17:13:23.550" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T17:13:23.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21790" CreationDate="2017-08-14T19:18:13.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the aeration method outlined would work by making a lower but more prolonged level of O2 available - but it might be over elaborate or even unnecessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The need for oxygen during fermentation is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; continuous. As noted, the yeast only needs it to grow. It is not needed to metabolise sugar to alcohol/CO2. So once the required yeast population is present there is no further need for oxygen. One might preclude any oxygen being needed at all by simply pitching a sufficient and full amount of hydrated active yeast into the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oxygen is used to make sterols required for the yeast cell wall. It seems that olive oil (in very small amounts) can also be used for this purpose, precluding the need for any oxygenation at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T19:18:13.423" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9639" CreationDate="2017-08-15T13:01:27.813" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think soaking the tubings in hot water with some detergent would help &#xA;I has worked for me before&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15327" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-08-15T17:04:06.237" LastActivityDate="2017-08-15T17:04:06.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-15T15:58:08.893" Score="1" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am sorry for the long thread, but I am digging the net for few days now and did not find such a &quot;tutorial&quot;, so I will built my own and want to share it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I will be happy you comment/correct me, and I have some questions at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I brew few amber ale from extract kit (very successfully) and want to try something new.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I want to brew wheat beer with honey, and wish it will be as clear as possible (I know wheat beer should get the haze, but I am trying something here :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/335104/ava&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this recipe&lt;/a&gt; with small amount of changes.&#xA;my steps should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat 21 Litre (5.5 Gallon) of water to 70 C (155F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the flaked wheat and oats, put it in a steeping bag and steep the grains for 30 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take out the bag of grain and wash it with small amount of water at 80C (175F) - few times with ladle - not squeezing the bag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get to boiling point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the DME once the water is boiling and mix it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add hops for 60 mins (the only one in this recipe)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the last 15 mins add the immersion chiller for sanitizing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add Honey and orange peel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add whirlfloc tab&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After 15 mins turn the flame out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start chilling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rehydrate the yeast with 110 ML (4 oz) - 40C (105F) of the wort for 15 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the wort is 24C (75F) whirlpool it and start siphoning it to the primary fermentation without trub as you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stir the wort to add oxygen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take OG value&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the rehydrated yeasts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close, add the airlock, and put it for few days in 22C (70F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the bubbles in the airlock are at much lower rate (±5 days), take gravity value once a day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After 2 days with no change transfer it to secondary (slowly, not to oxygen).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take FG value and calculate ABV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give it another ±10 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold crash for 3 days at 2-3C (35-37F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil 2 cups of water and add 220g (7.7oz) of corn sugar (calculator). Let it cool to 25C (77F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add it to the priming bucket, and slowly siphon the beer from the secondary (without trub as possible).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give it another 2 weeks at 22C (70F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold it to 3C (37F) 24 hours before drinking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enjoy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think about the process and steps?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My questions for perfectly understand the process are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full boil or partial boil? I read a lot of pro and cons, but if I understand correctly, clearer and tastier beer will be a result of full boil wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I use Gelatin after transferring to secondary for clearer beer? or will the affect be very tiny and not worth it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What will happens if I will use Lager dried yeasts instead of Ale, will it be clearer? of course I will use Lager fermentation rules (temperature, diacetyl rest, lagering). in general - can Ale or any other beer can be made with Lager yeasts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I use DME or LME? If I am understood correctly, DME will give me lower SRM, right? any other differences?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will late adding the extract (DME or LME) will help the beer to be clearer or lighter in color?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it is not common to publish such a huge detailed question, but I wanted to gather it all in one place for the new brewers as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15329" LastEditorUserId="15329" LastEditDate="2017-08-15T19:58:54.570" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T05:57:53.357" Title="Step by Step homebrewing from extract - need verification and clarification" Tags="|beer|techniques|first-time-brewer|extract|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21790" CreationDate="2017-08-15T18:05:18.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other solution is to pitch enough yeast to make aeration unneeded or at least less necessary.  That's what I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-08-15T18:05:18.760" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2227" CreationDate="2017-08-15T19:05:49.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you want.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with anything, there are considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hop Flavor and Aroma&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a big one.  Hop compounds break down and dissipate extremely quickly.  If you want a fresh hop flavor and/or aroma in the finished product you need to serve the beer ASAP.  Age doesn't impact the bittering nearly as much, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second consideration with hops is that you do not want your beer to become lightstruck (skunked.)  The carboy should be stored in a dark location to avoid that smelly rodent from rearing it's ugly head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Yeast Autolysis &amp;amp; Astringency - Racking off of the trub&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on extended aging in a carboy, you want as little trub as possible.  Aged trub will contain dead yeast cells (which cause meaty &amp;amp; brewers yeasty vitamin flavors) and hop particles (which can cause an oversteeped teabag astringency that can completely kill a beer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Oxidation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For extended aging, you want to use the smallest carboy you can fit your liquid into.  This reduces the liquid's total surface area exposed to oxygen (and total head space - which reduces the total oxygen possible.)  Preferably, you want to remove the oxygen somehow (by adding a layer of CO2, for example) because this is going to have a big impact on flavor quite quickly.  For some styles, such as an English Old Ale, this is okay because oxidation does miraculous things to the malt character.  For most styles, however, the last thing you want is a mouth full of wet cardboard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Biological Contaminations?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others have pointed this out, but honestly I don't think it it is as big of a factor.  Contaminations work pretty quick and if your beer is contaminated it probably won't matter how long you age it.  After a couple weeks you will taste it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you are &lt;em&gt;trying&lt;/em&gt; to contaminate the beer on purpose, that's a whole other story.  Assuming the bacteria has something to eat and the alcohol &amp;amp; hops aren't too potent, age helps instead of hindering in production.  Bugs turn things on their head though... for example you need oxygen for Brett to prosper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-04-03T13:16:33.797" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T13:16:33.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21800" CreationDate="2017-08-15T20:32:25.810" Score="3" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's time for some summer brewing and that means the warm tap water running through my wort chiller will have trouble cooling my wort down below the upper 70s.  Even for the Belgian style beer I'm brewing this would be too high of a pitching temperature per the recommendations.&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/malt/item/1664-yeast-strains-for-belgian-strong-ales&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4629/long-cooling-before-pitching&quot; title=&quot;Long cooling before pitching&quot;&gt;related posts&lt;/a&gt; here, I am comfortable throwing my brew pale in my kegerator for a number of hours to cool prior to pitching because of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am extremely meticulous when it comes to sanitizing my equipment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My brew pail will have little headspace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is -- &lt;em&gt;does it matter whether you aerate/oxygenate the wort after initial cooling or are their reasons to wait until you pitch the yeast (say 4 hours later or 24 hours later)?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3245" LastEditorUserId="3245" LastEditDate="2017-09-07T18:35:58.367" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T18:35:58.367" Title="When to oxygenate when you delay pitching the yeast?" Tags="|temperature|chilling|aeration|oxygenation|pitching|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21799" CreationDate="2017-08-16T01:23:09.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would oxygenate (pure O2) right before or after the pitch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because the process has the chance to introduce bacteria or wild yeast and it's best if the yeast is there to become dominate before anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aeration has much less risk, if just splashing or shaking the wort. I don't think this would matter much when it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-08-16T14:16:38.797" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T14:16:38.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6494" CreationDate="2017-08-16T05:13:25.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, over sparging can extract extra, undesirable tannins from the husks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15333" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T05:13:25.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21796" CreationDate="2017-08-16T07:55:41.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Take the flaked wheat and oats, put it in a steeping bag and steep the grains for 30 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Take out the bag of grain and wash it with small amount of water at 80C (175F) - few times with ladle - not squeezing the bag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will not work. You will need to do a real cereal mash, using pilsner or lager malt, so that the flaked wheat and oats are converted. To do this, you must be able to crush the malt, or obtain crushed malt in any other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are using a steeping bag, you could maybe also use crushed wheat malt. But I have no experience using bags, so someone else could possibly add more information about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, first thing to confirm for yourself then, is that you understand the conversion process from starches to sugars in malted and unmalted grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T07:55:41.290" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-16T13:44:33.033" Score="3" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had problems with low efficiency when I have a large percentage of wheat in my BIAB batches. I am planning a Hefeweizen recipe that will be 60% white wheat malt and I want to get it right this time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with doing a protein rest in BIAB?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Does anyone think this might improve my efficiency issue?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest concern is rising up to the full mash temp after the protein rest without over shooting. It's difficult for me to adjust the temp in a 10 gallon batch once the grain is in the kettle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15335" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-08-16T14:31:57.550" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T17:16:44.827" Title="Are protein rests worthwhile in BIAB?" Tags="|efficiency|biab|wheat|protien-rest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-16T17:19:34.800" Score="5" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3042/when-should-you-measure-and-adjust-mash-ph&quot;&gt;this question's answer&lt;/a&gt;, from Denny Conn, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You don't pretreat the water because it's the mash pH you're concerned with, not the water pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this agrees with this &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/hops/item/1493-the-power-of-ph&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article on the power of pH&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Malted barley contains phosphates, which are acidic buffers. Making a mash of grain mixed with water will cause the phosphate buffers to achieve a natural pH of around 5.6. Therefore, &lt;strong&gt;it does not matter what the initial pH of your brewing water is&lt;/strong&gt; because the interaction between ions in water and buffering components of the malt will always change the water pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/3497-german-gose-style-profile&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gose recipe by Gordon Strong&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On brew day, prepare your ingredients; mill the grain, measure your hops, and prepare your water. This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. &lt;strong&gt;Add 1⁄4 tsp. 10% phosphoric acid per 5 gallons (19 L) of brewing water, or until water measures pH 5.5&lt;/strong&gt; at room temperature. Add 1 tsp. calcium chloride (CaCl2) to the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://sourbeerblog.com/fast-souring-lactobacillus/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;fast souring article&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After your saccharification rest is complete&lt;/strong&gt;, reduce the pH of the wort to 4.5 by addition of food grade lactic or phosphoric acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I'm gathering from all this is that you treat your mash to be between 5.2 and 5.5 for the purpose of ensuring the mash converts efficiently, and you treat your wort, post mash, to make it more friendly to your lacto inoculation (although, this is not specifically in Gordon's recipe). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does this sound correct, and if so, is Gordon's recommendation to treat the water incorrect, or does it have to do with the RO water? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a sour, would you treat the wort pH post mash or post sparge? Or does it matter at that point?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters, I am batch sparging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2017-08-16T17:35:18.670" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T11:19:15.373" Title="When should you treat your water for pH for a sour beer?" Tags="|mash|sour|ph|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21796" CreationDate="2017-08-16T17:22:13.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO there is too much &quot;all grain brewing tehcnique&quot; being used in an extract brew process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no particular need to steep the grains at 70C. They are providing some flavours and body to the final beer, The grains are not malted so have no diastatic power to convert starch to sugars - as standard barley malt might do. Flaked wheat might help in head retention and flaked oats can give the brew a &quot;creamy taste&quot;. Both will contribute a higher final gravity but not a higher ABV. it is quite possible to add these grains to a extract brew but IMHO not much. I would use these as very minor additions. Rinsing the grain bag before/on removal is probably unnecessary but it will not hurt the brew &lt;em&gt;per se&lt;/em&gt;. Normally allowing it to drain naturally for a minute will suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no need to boil the malt extract with the hops. Hop extraction may well be more efficient without the malt extract and the use of extract will probably be more efficient if not caught in all the hops. Just omit step 5. Add the extract to the fermenting vessel with some boiling water to help pasteurise and dissolve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer a &quot;partial boil&quot; say 25% of the final volume but that is only for convenience as adding 75% cold tap water to a very hot &quot;hop tea&quot; and extract in the fermenting vessel allow the wort to be quickly cooled and aerated in one go. Without any need for wasting extra water and using extra equipment. For a 24 L brew I tend to boil the hops in about 5 L of water in a large stock pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps 13/14 can be combined by pouring the &lt;em&gt;very hot&lt;/em&gt; hop liquor into the fermenting vessel via a sieve. That will catch the hops and aerate the wort in one go. That may be difficult with 24 litres but quite easy with 5 or 6L. Hence my preference for a partial boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 19. &quot;Oxyphobia&quot; seems to be endemic in some brewers. Yeast can handle oxygen quite well and in many years of brewing I have yet to make &quot;oxidised&quot; beer. Commercial brewers who bio-filter their beer (or otherwise sterilise it) seem to have more problems with their brews in this respect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be argued that steps 20 and 21 should be swapped. Wait until the end of fermenting and then take the FG. That is why it is the Final Gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 22 - the cold crash. If you have a big fridge then this could be done. But the yeast should clear anyway, so no need to be too dependant on this stage. This is a rather modern elaboration in home brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 23 - are you attempting to make champagne :). I would recommend no more than 150g of glucose in 24L of brew and that will turn out like a fizzy lager. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions raised:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always prefer a partial boil. IMHO my beer is very clear and very tasty. YMMV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not use Gelatin. You can try but IMHO is is a bad method that adds nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lager yeast can be used in many brews. Lager is beer that is stored (German:&quot;lager&quot;) at a cool temperature. It is usually brewed at a lower temperature too. Ale yeast can brew at low temperature. Not usually as efficiently, but it works. If you are making brews with wheat and oats then it might be better to use an ale yeast. But you're the head brewer.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DME can be fun dissolving - it gets very sticky very quickly near hot water. LME is easier to stir in without clumping and comes in nice sterile tins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not boiling the extract will tend to make the beer lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may come back and revise this long post! Good luck. Phew, &quot;czas na pivo&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T17:22:13.890" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21803" CreationDate="2017-08-17T00:55:01.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do BIAB, and I don't think protein rest has much with extraction efficiency. Mashout temperature has, however: if wort has lower viscosity due to higher temperature, it will better flow from the grist. Another thing I do is &quot;micro-sparge&quot; with 1-2 liters of water over the grain bag (in my case it's a basket, actually) on top of the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to raising temperature, you have two options: 1. heat the kettle (which you seem to do), but then you need to constantly stir the mash; 2. hot water addition, which can be calculated (tons of calculators online for it) and you can avoid overshooting -- BIAB is thin mash, so starting with partial amount of water should not be a problem. Actually, I use the option 1 with re-circulation and electronic temperature controller, but you may want to check option 2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, every homebrew book author says that modern malts don't need protein rest. Hefe, however, may profit from ferrulic rest (42-43C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T00:55:01.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17047" CreationDate="2017-08-17T03:51:47.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Come and Brew It Radio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On iTunes and Stitcher&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;90+ episodes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FB: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/comeandbrewitradio/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.facebook.com/comeandbrewitradio/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15340" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T03:51:47.097" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2017-08-17T03:51:47.097" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21804" CreationDate="2017-08-17T11:19:15.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are perfectly correct, the mash adjust to around 5.2 is for conversion efficiency and to assure that minimal tannins are extracted out of the grain husks (especially important in dark beers). The post-mash adjustment down to 4.5 is generally suggested in order to prevent bacteria other than lactobacillus from growing in your wort since especially enterobacter thrives in the same conditions as lactobacillus. There is excellent information about the processes in the MTF Wiki article on wort souring: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Wort_Souring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Wort_Souring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T11:19:15.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21799" CreationDate="2017-08-17T12:53:34.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I concur with Evil Zymurgist and would add the following.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast will need to initially eat up all that oxygen to multiply before getting to work on transforming sugars into alcohol. If you aerate and then wait before pitching your yeast it will be a bit of a fruitless exercise as all of the incorporated air will be lost once you open the fermenter lid to pitch the yeast. This could also lead to the outside possibility of oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s 100% O2 isn't neccessary but is usually best practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15339" LastEditorUserId="15339" LastEditDate="2017-08-17T13:04:15.000" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T13:04:15.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-17T19:49:01.423" Score="3" ViewCount="768" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/21804/when-should-you-treat-your-water-for-ph-for-a-sour-beer&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt;'s answer led me to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.milkthefunk.com&lt;/a&gt; which is a great source of information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there's a few methods for making sour beer, I should mention I've been doing what some call a kettle sour (or fast sour) where I do a mash, then a full boil, then sour the beer using l plantarum in a sealed keg purged with CO2, then do another full boil (topping up with water) then ferment as a standard ale, then keg for carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the issues I've had with sour beer is DMS, really with any pilsner as well. (This is why I am now doing a full boil before kettle souring.) It turns out, there are some reasons for it, as according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Dimethyl_Sulfide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the article on DMS&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one, I'm boiling at 6500 ft elevation, so my boiling temp is ~199F/93C (instead of 212F/100C)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It has long been reported that the half-life of SMM doubles for every 6°C cooler, meaning that at 95°C the half-life is ~70 minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And two, especially important for sour beers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;pH plays a role in the reduction of SMM to DMS, with a higher pH reducing the half-life of SMM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meaning I really need to be boiling for &gt;2 hours to be rid of DMS for an ale! For a sour, the pH may be in the 3.4 range, where SMM half-life is now 142 at 200F/94C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Empirically, I've been having good success with a 75 minute boil for a standard ale. My ales do not have significant DMS with that boil time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean I need a 284 minute (nearly 5 hour) boil for a sour beer at elevation to remove DMS!?!?!? (I am doubling the half-life after adjusting for both temperature (elevation) and acidity (pH).) If I do a full boil before souring, and a full boil after souring, do these add together? Or, not really, since each boil went above 80C, each boil needs to be figured independently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, the question this has been leading up to, after the kettle sour portion is finished, can I raise pH to 5.2 using Calcium Carbonate to increase the DMS boil-off without altering the taste? Or will that kill the &quot;sourness&quot; by reducing the acidity? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2017-08-18T16:59:16.493" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T00:25:36.770" Title="Can you increase the pH for the boil after kettle souring?" Tags="|boil|sour|ph|dms|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21810" CreationDate="2017-08-18T13:26:22.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lactic acid in the sour wort will act as a pH buffer and will mean quite a lot of &quot;salts&quot; will be needed to actually raise the pH of the wort. The lactic acid may well form a salt precipitate in such conditions (eg. Calcium lactate) which has a very much less sour flavour compared to lactic acid. Some think it does not taste sour at all. In theory one could use Sulphuric or Phosphoric acid to reduce the pH at the very end of the process. Calcium Phosphate or Calcium sulphate would tend to precipitate out of solution over time (especially if crash cooled for a few days). That would leave much of the original lactic acid back in solution and the brew would be sour again. Probably....One might think this all more chemistry than brewing. A better answer might be to find ingredients, especially the malt, with less SMM precursor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one particularly wanted to boil off DMS produced then it seems one must boil for some longer time. If we take the approximate (quoted) half life of 70 mins when boiled at 94C there will be a quarter remaining after 140mins and an eight at 210mins. If an eighth of the inherent amount present is below the taste threshold then job done in 3.5 hours. Boiling it for that long or longer may well, to some degree, darken the final beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T13:26:22.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21812" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-08-18T19:45:11.413" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-08-18T19:45:11.413" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T19:45:11.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21813" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-08-18T19:45:11.413" Score="0" Body="Dimethyl sulfide (DMS) is an organosulfur compound that is produced in the wort during the brewing process  and has a characteristic disagreeable odor of cooked or creamed corn.  It is a byproduct of mashing and fermentation, or bacterial contamination." OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-08-20T05:35:35.363" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T05:35:35.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21823" CreationDate="2017-08-19T07:28:59.007" Score="1" ViewCount="1973" Body="&lt;p&gt;Made a batch of cider with granny smith apples 13%brix. Juiced my self.&#xA;used half or maybe less of Kmeta than what is suggested on the packet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;July 3: saf-ale US05 yeast. Starter was 2L apple juice with 1 packet left to ferment for 24 - 48 hours.&#xA;took a couple of days to start fermenting.&#xA;Apple juice was very appley and nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;July 8: I wanted to try adding  pectic enzyme at the start of fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;July 10: Started tasting and smelling like vomit and it lost the strong apple smells and tastes. Had milky haze that would stick to the side of drinking glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;22 July: vomit smell/taste was gone and juice sweet but insipid 7%brix&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to re-use the yeast but am concerned the yeast might be infected with something. Perhaps cider sickness? seems strange to get infected while fermenting though. Is this to be expected from safale US05(first time using it) when used with cider,or could it be the pectic enzyme addition, while fermenting giving off the vomit smell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: &#xA;want to use the yeast for beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12310" LastEditorUserId="12310" LastEditDate="2017-08-22T06:10:02.823" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T22:20:41.247" Title="is my cider infected or is this normal for safaleUS05" Tags="|beer|yeast|cider|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21815" CreationDate="2017-08-20T04:23:55.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but expect the same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a wild yeast that doesn't flocculate and stays in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it tastes good then use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T04:23:55.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21796" CreationDate="2017-08-20T05:57:53.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steps 1 and 2: I second what chthon said about the grains, you need a base malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can skip steps 20 and 21 if you are using finings, just add to primary then wait a couple of days; finings are often not needed with ale yeasts they flocculate very well. I have often, waited 3 days after FG has been reached for the yeast to settle out, then primed the FV and bottled straight from there, saves a huge amount of cleaning and you can use the secondary vessel to be doing another primary fermentation and have more beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are making a traditional lager then conditioning the the secondary is authentic, but for an ale, I would always allow the conditioning to be completed in the bottles, and ignore the secondary all together, unless I was specifically making an aged ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also 27. I wouldn't cool an ale to 3C before serving, I would allow it to warm up a little or the richness of the malt and the esters from the yeast will not be able to be made the most of. I would chill it in the fridge, then allow it wo warm up for 10 min before serving you will notice a far rich flavour and better aromas if you do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, talking of aroma, I would add a little hop at flame out and a little more 3-5 days into fermentation to fill out the aroma, even an amount as small as 12g/0.5oz for each of these additions will make a huge difference to the aroma of the ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What will happens if I will use Lager dried yeasts instead of Ale, will it be clearer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really both flocculate well and generally drop out of suspension quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will late adding the extract (DME or LME) will help the beer to be clearer or lighter in color?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding your DME or LME later in the boil will reduce the amount of oxidation/caramelisation that occurs reducing the darkness of the finished beer, but also diminishing the richness and potentially affecting the extraction of alphacids from the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T05:57:53.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21820" CreationDate="2017-08-21T00:06:43.380" Score="3" ViewCount="1173" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I add priming sugar to a finished wine to carbonate it when I bottle it? I plan on fermenting about a month before I bottle it, would the yeast still be alive at that time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15192" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T23:00:03.120" Title="Sparkling Blackberry Wine" Tags="|carbonation|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21819" CreationDate="2017-08-21T18:27:35.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is entirely possible to make a sparkling fruit wine by adding sugar to the fermented brew before bottling it. I prefer to use glucose but table sugar(sucrose) or syrup(invert sugar) can be used as preferred. If a strong glass bottle is not available I recommend using PET fizzy drinks bottles. I do not recommend using &quot;normal&quot; beer or wine bottles as they are not designed for the higher pressures found in carbonated wines - but it does depend on how fizzy the wine is made. It is also important to make sure the wine has FULLY fermented before adding priming sugar and bottling. If the fermenting wine was left in the brew bin (or whatever the wine is being fermented in) for about 4 weeks then that is a good &quot;rule of thumb&quot; but it is better to use hydrometer to the determine the Specific Gravity. The fermentation has finished when the specific gravity remains constant over three or so days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a guide I use 350g of sugar or glucose to 24 L of fruit wine. That produces a fizz but not an eruption on opening the bottle. If you like it fizzier then 400 g of sugar can be used for 24L. Increasing the priming sugar to 450g usually produces too much carbonation to safely or usefully open the bottle inside the house. On the other hand it is perfect if you plan to celebrate winning a F1 Grand Prix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In normal conditions after a month fermenting at &quot;room temperature&quot; the wine will contain enough yeast for successful secondary fermentation and carbonation. There is normally no need to add any yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-08-21T18:27:35.940" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21815" CreationDate="2017-08-21T18:45:43.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO it is not worth trying to reuse a Saf05 yeast that has been fermenting in questionable circumstances. The yeast is too cheap to buy to risk an infection or even a failure. More over it is not really a good yeast to use for cider - although I am sure it will cause fermentation in most situations. traditional farmyard Apple cider is usually made with the wild yeast that lives on the apple skins and enters the juice while crushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also question why Potassium metabisulphite needs to be initially added to the brew. If infection is a real worry then pasteurise (or even boil) the apple juice before cooling and pitching a commercial yeast. Many commercial ciders are made with pasteurised apple juice and quite often with glucose syrup. Making cider with pasteurised juice has been covered &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/345/hard-cider-with-pasteurized-regular-cider&quot;&gt;in this question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermenting apple juice often has a malodorous or slightly sulphurous aroma. In most circumstances it will fade over time while ageing/conditioning. Ciders that are obviously infected with a very sour taste can often be opened to the air to make apple vinegar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking cider is not a quick drink to make. Good cider ferments for more than a month and is then bottled and aged for something like one year. Cider less than a year old often tastes &quot;less than optimal&quot; and many would say it is not fit to drink before that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-08-23T10:52:45.680" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T10:52:45.680" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21810" CreationDate="2017-08-21T20:32:02.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the right approach may be to boil as normal for the equipment used, then after the saccharomyces fermentation is complete, if the DMS levels are noticeable, perform a CO2 purge. According to Carl Townsend of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.picobrewery.com/askarchive/dms.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;picobrewery.com&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Generally, if you keep your boil vigorous and cool rapidly, DMS levels will be appropriate for style. However, the DMS level may still be too high for your taste. If you keg your beer, you can artificially scrub out DMS using CO2. This is best done before carbonating. If you have a lager, allow it to warm to room temperature first. Then, switch around the ball-lock fittings on your keg so they are backwards. Hook up the long dip tube (labeled &quot;out&quot;) to the CO2 tank. Prop open the pressure relief and let the CO2 bubble through the beer. Slow down if it starts to foam out. Occasionally sniff the gas as it exits the keg valve. You should be able to smell the DMS at first, and then notice it fading with time. After the level has dropped, switch the ball locks back to their usual configuration. Then carbonate as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the fittings are slightly different, I will try this by only switching the dip tubes, and leave everything else as normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JeHnWjmoz1o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This guy&lt;/a&gt; just flips the keg on it's end. Seems even simpler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: So I tried this last night and although I was unable to swap any parts around, I was able to just flip the keg over. I had to set up a couple of parallel boards, since the rim on the keg is lower than the ball lock connectors to avoid putting too much weight on the connectors, but otherwise, it worked well. I couldn't really smell the DMS, so I just kind of did it a few times, filling up a small cup with foam. In a taste test with pre-scrubbed wort, the DMS levels were significantly lower, but not absent. I may try this again tonight, then I'll dry hop it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GHTTN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GHTTN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;upside-down keg on blocks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2017-08-24T00:25:36.770" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T00:25:36.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21815" CreationDate="2017-08-23T17:24:07.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vomit taste is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Butyric_Acid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;butyric acid&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;produced by anaerobic bacteria such as Clostridium butyricum, C. kluyveri, and Megasphaera spp &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Butyric_Acid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; during glucose fermentation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend re-using the yeast. I would also not recommend drinking any of the cider unless you are certain the alcohol content is at least 2% ABV as there may be other more harmful bacteria present, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pathogenic_Escherichia_coli&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;e. coli&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clostridium_botulinum&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clostridium botulinum&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If something smells awful (where awful is like rancid/vomit/fecal aromas), it's really time to toss the batch. If the alcohol content is low, it could cause food poisoning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2017-08-23T22:20:41.247" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T22:20:41.247" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-24T03:29:43.957" Score="0" ViewCount="1153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make wine out of pomegranate juice, its almost a month that the must is fermenting but when I read the specific gravity with the hydrometer is always around 0.008. If a try to calculate the ABV with an online calculator or with the formulas is always a negative number, am I doing something wrong??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15352" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T09:03:45.677" Title="specific gravity in wine making" Tags="|wine|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-24T05:54:50.670" Score="6" ViewCount="2111" Body="&lt;p&gt;For one I have read that if after the yeast is settled and the yeast is stirred up (for whatever reason) then gelatin will not help dropping the yeast out while isinglass will. Also I've read the complete opposite. Which one is true? Of course as I've read both I'd expect a good source for the claim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other differences between them? More than ethic/religious aspect of sourcing the collagen (I assume that pig gelatin is not kosher for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14579" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-08-25T18:10:00.530" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T17:05:31.870" Title="What's the difference between isinglass and gelatin?" Tags="|finings|gelatin|isinglass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2017-08-24T12:18:35.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Microsoft Visio at work, which can add graphics, jpegs, photos etc and also you can add text in various fonts colours etc, then sneakliy print on a colour laserjet printer at work ;-) the laser colour ink is fast and doesn't run. I then use a glue stick to put them on the bottles, however thinking of trying milk as the glue-stick glue is quite sticky and takes a bit of effort to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15354" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T12:18:35.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21829" CreationDate="2017-08-24T13:52:44.473" Score="4" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m currently creating a batch of mead.&#xA;I’ve watched a lot of videos about the process.&#xA;I’ve seen some people do it because they said you need to have it between 3.6 and 3.9 ph. And some just don’t bother and it turns out great.&#xA;In the first batch i’m making right now i’ve made no changes to the ph level. And of course made sure to sterilize everything beforehand.&#xA;The biggest part i’m sort of concerned about is, &lt;em&gt;do i actually need to change the PH of my mead to prevent bacteria to grow in there or will the alcohol take care of that.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15355" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T05:58:57.760" Title="Changing the PH of mead for fermenting necessary?" Tags="|fermentation|mead|bacteria|ph|acidity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21824" CreationDate="2017-08-24T17:25:53.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instructions for using a hydrometer can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/20566/how-to-use-the-hydrometer/20570#20570&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and elsewhere on the net, eg &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTvmYaQq6Mc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube has some videos on the subject.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific gravity is relative to water (S.G. = 1.0) so unfermented wines should be heavier/denser than water, eg S.G. 1.090, YMMV. As the wine ferments the S.G. decreases because the sugars are consumed. This makes the S.G. fall. When wine is finished fermenting it can have a S.G. close to or even below 1.000. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calculate the (approximate) ABV one must know the original gravity and the final gravity of the fermented wine. One must record the starting/original gravity (O.G.) before/at pitching the yeast and several successive readings of the specific gravity at later dates. If the specific gravity is the same for three days in a row then the primary fermenting is deemed to have stopped. The last specific gravity reading is then the final gravity (F.G.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can &lt;em&gt;estimate&lt;/em&gt; the ABV of the final brew &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2924/calculating-alcohol-by-volume&quot;&gt;using a formula found in this question&lt;/a&gt; and the original/final gravity readings noted while brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-08-25T09:03:45.677" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T09:03:45.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21827" CreationDate="2017-08-25T05:58:57.760" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO mead does not generally need any adjustment of pH levels to ferment correctly. It is generally fermented to have a similar level of alcohol to a strong wine - which will not generally support bacterial growth. As the fermentation progresses the pH of the mead will naturally drop due to dissolved carbon dioxide. Mead has been made this way for a long time, long before pH or bacteria had been discovered. Good sanitation of containers and ingredients - and pitching an active yeast - is IMHO all that is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T05:58:57.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2017-08-25T16:41:30.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a similar method to PunkyBrewster to adhere my printed labels however I find that adding milk isn't enough. I use a mix of 1:1 water and milk with a teaspoon of gelatine. This method means the labels won't come off when condensation builds up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you can get your hands on a Laser printer (I use one at work) you don't have to worry about the ink running when adhering labels. So to answer your main question I just use powerpoint to design and make 4 labels per A4 piece of paper, I keep to a simple rectangular design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a simple label design idea take a look at some of the craft beers on my brewing website &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesmallbrewingcompany.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Small Brewing Company&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15339" LastEditorUserId="15339" LastEditDate="2017-09-05T16:54:35.710" LastActivityDate="2017-09-05T16:54:35.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21825" CreationDate="2017-08-25T19:06:19.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking around on the internet it seems that both do the same. Both products contain collagen, which bind to yeast and proteins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference is that for using gelatin the beer must be cold. For isinglass this is not necessary, but using isinglass is more difficult: the pH of the isinglass mix needs to be adjusted, and the isinglass mix needs also to be put in the fridge for a couple of days before adding it to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Finings&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isinglass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Isinglass&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gelatin#Culinary_uses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Culinary uses of gelatin&lt;/a&gt;: According to this, isinglass used to be a source of gelatin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=837357&amp;amp;postcount=6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to use isinglass to fine beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2012/06/how-to-clear-your-beer-with-gelatin.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to clear your beer with gelatin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2017-08-30T17:05:31.870" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T17:05:31.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2017-08-26T19:10:53.223" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Brewer's friends has a lot of different calculators. You can construct your own recipes. It has blogs, ingredient matrixes. It doesn't cost nothing. You can download it on a smartphone, and it's a website on the internet. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2017-08-26T19:10:53.223" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2017-08-26T19:10:53.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21860" CreationDate="2017-08-27T18:18:16.407" Score="9" ViewCount="817" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone have definitive info if diastatic power is reduced with grain age? If so, any data to estimate current DP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing with some pretty old 2-row today. It has been stored properly for 1.5 years, temperature never got above 80°F, it never got damp, and the grain still smells and tastes fresh; it has been stored in air tight container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having beta-amylase conversion issues. Time seems to be letting it work though it, but it's been mashing for 3 hours now and the iodine test is still slightly dark. In the past with this same recipe I've had clear tests in 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;24lb 2-row,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2lb flaked maize in the mash,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.31gal water/grist ratio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dough in had a rough start, forgot to read grain temp before strike water calc, estimated 80°F but, must have been closer to 70°F. 142 hit, 148 was target. Fired up RIS to bring up, applied some mash run flame while stirring. Brought it up to 148 and held for 1.5h, stepping up to 158 slowly now. To see if alpha-amylase is pooched too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it's possible some amylase denatured from direct flame, but I can't see it reducing the DP below 30 for this grain bill, I was really stirring well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2017-08-31T03:19:41.773" LastActivityDate="2017-09-04T21:56:34.020" Title="Does diastatic power reduce with age? Old grain" Tags="|all-grain|grain|amylase-enzymes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-27T20:40:28.853" Score="0" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I stir my wine after the first racking, won't that stir up all that sediment?  Will that give the wine a bad taste and will it reduce the ABV?  I  don't want to do either one. Obviously this is my first time making wine.  I racked it from the primary to the carboy 4 days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15363" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T03:41:29.437" Title="stirring or degassing wine" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21835" CreationDate="2017-08-27T20:54:24.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much sediment you'll disturb depends on how you stir. Usually you try to get the wine to clear (i.e., get rid of the sediment), as wines (especially white and rosé) are supposed to be clear. Sediment will probably also have a negative effect on the taste (e.g., yeasty).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stirring won't have an impact on ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any CO2 the yeast has produced during fermentation probably has already escaped through the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2017-08-27T20:54:24.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21835" CreationDate="2017-08-28T03:41:29.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, degassing wine is done prior to bottling, often after 2 rackings or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that you racked your wine means that you left most of the sediments in the primary, so stirring the secondary won't disturb any sediments, they have not settled yet.  The bad taste and loss of ABV will only occur if your wine gets infected, so make sure that you sanitize your spoon or any other instrument that will touch your wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen wine kits that instruct to stir before the first racking (which means that sediments are transferred to the secondary).  However stirring (mixing the sediments) is not the same as degassing (removing CO2).  Later, the sediments are left behind after the second racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your wine kit recommends stirring, follow the procedure but sanitize your equipment carefully.  Personally, I would degas my wine only before bottling, which I normally do after 4 weeks, not before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T03:41:29.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21841" CreationDate="2017-08-28T19:47:30.857" Score="2" ViewCount="1756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to make a blackberry wine from blackberries picked in my yard.  I followed a recipe found online, adding sugar disolved in water to a bunch of mashed up berries in a mesh bag, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already added campden tablets, yeast nutrient, pectic enzyme and acid blend according to recipe and then waited 24 hours to pitch red wine yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got worried because I didn't see fermentation starting, so I took a reading and was surpised by the very high gravity (1.13).  I assume the sugar content is too high for fermatation to happen correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, what do I do now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that perhaps I should split the must into two buckets and add water to each and then re-pitch?  Would that even work?  Will the wine taste really weird because there isn't enough fruit juice in each?  Could I add more fruit and basically start the process over adding adjusted amounts of pectice enzyme / acid blend / yeast nutrient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15373" LastActivityDate="2017-08-29T09:41:39.363" Title="How can I save a wine with SG way too high?" Tags="|fermentation|wine|specific-gravity|country-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21840" CreationDate="2017-08-28T21:00:13.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding water will dilute the flavor and depending on the quantity, it could be too much dilution.  Another option is to blend with another wine, if you have more than one batch going.  And finally, you can add some fruit juice to it, but make sure there isn't too much sugar in the juice, otherwise the problem will remain. Juice would be a better option than water. Look at ingredients of the juice, avoid Potassium sorbate because it can stop/slow the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, you can split the batch in two and add your juice, wine or water (as you like, could be a combination).  You might not even need to pitch more yeast, there should be enough already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that adding fruit / pectice enzyme / acid blend / yeast nutrient would be more work, but it could work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T21:00:13.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21840" CreationDate="2017-08-29T09:41:39.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Split the batch of high SG wine into two. A larger batch and a smaller batch - eg. 1/4 and 3/4. Water down the smaller batch until it gets to (say) S.G. 1.090 or 1.10. Check with hydrometer and don't dlute too much. Make up a fresh batch of yeast in water add a little sugar and check the yeast is fermenting after (say) 1 hour. if it isn't frothing or bubbling then the yeast is inactive or weakly active and you need to get some more fresh yeast. Once you have an active yeast culture add it to the watered down batch and let it ferment. After a few days add more solution from the original wine batch. Repeat this every few days until all the original wine is added. When all is in one fermenting vessel -&#xA; continue as normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea in this is that the yeast may be inactive or may be stymied from fully fermenting by the strong sugar solution - or the yeast is inactive. So make a weaker solution that the yeast can ferment in and then top it up with some more sugar/juice solution when the that sugar has been fermented. With luck it should all ferment to completion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it difficult to understand the modern idea of adding campden tablets to everything wild. Neither campden tablets, nor pectin enzyme nor yeast nutrient are really needed to make wines from natural fruits. Fruit wine was made just fine long before any of these adulterants were invented. If campden tablets are used then I advise using them after fermentation has finished to stabilise the wine. IMHO using them before just makes fermenting more difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-08-29T09:41:39.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15301" CreationDate="2017-08-29T14:16:07.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I performed my first rack on some muscadine wine. I had 5 Camden tablets crushed and diluted in jug #2. Jug #1's content was deep pink. The content in the siphon line was pink. As soon as the wine touch the Camden/water solution in Jug &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/My4SX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/My4SX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;#2, it turned a hazy gold color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15375" LastActivityDate="2017-08-29T14:16:07.727" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21850" CreationDate="2017-08-29T16:07:11.997" Score="1" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know perhaps the best malt for head retention is carafoam. However I was wondering how other malts known for this property compare to each other. Specially caramunich vs crystal malts. As I want to substitute a crystal 60L for a caramunich III in a red ale recipe, but I aim to keep the same head retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15376" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T15:32:34.530" Title="How much head retention do you get from a caramunich III compared to crystal malt?" Tags="|head-retention|specialty-malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22676" CreationDate="2017-08-29T17:37:12.013" Score="2" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some extra opti-red from last year that I'd like to use up.  Is there a danger if I add too much of it?  Should I just toss it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the cons of opti-red?  Can it make the wine taste more artificial or flabby?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/optired.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.morebeer.com/products/optired.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T16:12:00.377" Title="Can I add too much opti-red?" Tags="|wine|additives|red-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-29T20:27:41.717" Score="0" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to brew my first batch of pure wheat beer. But instead of Hop I want to use either dried orange peel or freshly grated ginger. Kindly suggest what to use and in what quantity should I use and when should I add those.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15369" LastActivityDate="2017-08-29T22:33:07.890" Title="Instead of Hop can only Ginger or Orange Peel be used for brewing Pure Wheat Beer?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21847" CreationDate="2017-08-29T22:33:07.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For 24 liters of wheat beer (like &quot;Hoegarden&quot;) I used 10 - 14 g of dried bitter orange peel with 7g of fresh coriander seed from the kitchen garden. I have not used ginger in beer, but for ginger flavored drinks I find 1 teaspoon for 5 Litres gives the drink a slight warmth - so 5 teaspoons of ginger for 24 L would be a useful place to start. I am sure others would double or triple that amount!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-08-29T22:33:07.890" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-29T22:42:05.530" Score="1" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know, the easiest way to clarify my beer. To avoid chill Haze if there's a way to avoid that. Any and all help be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T14:34:25.327" Title="Clarifying my beer" Tags="|beer|clarification|cloudy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-09-04T19:06:33.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21844" CreationDate="2017-08-29T23:43:59.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far I found no difference in head retention from various relatively highly kilned specialty malts like crystal/caramunich etc. Carafoam is a different beast in that regard. Btw likely same level of head retention, as from carafoam, can be achieved with additions of flaked barley or torrified wheat. Not mentioning that healthy yeast and good fermentation are still equally important for head retention, if not more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2017-08-29T23:43:59.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21849" CreationDate="2017-08-30T01:08:54.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went through the same trials and tribulations that you're experiencing. I have made wine for years and used Super-Klear as a fining agent, which always worked wonders in clarifying my wines. In beer, I had mixed results.&#xA;So, reading online, I decided to try plain unflavored gelatin, mixing about 1 tsp of gelatin into 1 cup water at 150F.  I usually boil the water first to sanitize it, then allow it to cool to 150F, add the gelatin, stir to dissolve and then add, stirring into the beer. Being able to place the beer in a refrigerator will definitely help the process along. Usually in 2-3 days you can see results. It is my go to process now, my beer is crystal clear.&#xA;There are other brewing processes that will benefit the clearing process, a vigorous boil, followed by a quick cooling process helps. Additionally using Whirfloc in the last 10 minutes of the boil, has shown to benefit clearing.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T01:08:54.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21849" CreationDate="2017-08-30T14:34:25.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has been discussed many times, take a look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11367/what-is-chill-haze-and-how-do-i-get-rid-of-chill-haze&quot;&gt;What is chill haze and how to get rid of it&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9482/how-to-clear-beer?rq=1&quot;&gt;How to clear beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4284/how-to-get-clearer-and-more-clarified-home-brewed-beers?rq=1&quot;&gt;How to get clearer home brewed beers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3957/what-causes-cloudiness-in-beer?rq=1&quot;&gt;What causes cloudiness in beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up the answers, I can recommend :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaving beer more time in secondary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store at colder temperature for a longer time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use finings agents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filter the beer &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, leave your beer in a secondary (glass carboy) for a few additional weeks at a colder temperature.  If longer time is not an option, the use of a fining agent will do the job, but I find that it also strips some flavor and color. Filtering is also an option, but it may also filter the remaining yeast in suspension, so this is not suitable for bottle conditionning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T14:34:25.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21844" CreationDate="2017-08-30T15:32:34.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using specialty malts for head retention is kind of a canard.  You'll have much better luck by controlling your fermentation....&lt;a href=&quot;http://byo.com/stories/article/indices/35-head-retention/697-getting-good-beer-foam-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://byo.com/stories/article/indices/35-head-retention/697-getting-good-beer-foam-techniques&lt;/a&gt; .  To answer your question more directly, neither one is better than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T15:32:34.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21855" CreationDate="2017-08-30T16:01:12.100" Score="2" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that for home winemaking the wine will start to decrease in quality after about a year in the bottle. What steps can I take to maximize how long my wine will stay fresh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14602" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T17:10:54.650" Title="How can I maximize the time my wine can stay in a bottle?" Tags="|wine|aging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21854" CreationDate="2017-08-30T17:10:54.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A can think of a few factors to slow down wine aging time:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality of the must to begin with. More complex wine will age better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher alcool content, might preserve the wine better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality of cork used, the more air will pass, the quicker the wine will age.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the bottles cold and away from light for best preservation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure enough SO2 is present&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding SO2, you can add campden tablets to help preserve your wine.  SO2 will &quot;evaporate&quot; when in contact with air (in fact it binds to oxygen, to protect the wine).  I personally add campden only if I plan on preserving the wine more than a year.  It is a good idea to decant the wine if SO2 was added to get rid of what is left of it before drinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T17:10:54.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21863" CreationDate="2017-09-01T17:22:10.560" Score="1" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing around with step mashing to get slightly better efficiency in my biab batch and for better control of the beer body. I am very new to home brewing and this was probably too much too soon. In addition I still haven't determined my efficiency to know what my target OG would actually be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started mashing at 148°F. The plan was to mash for 20 minutes at this temperature but my specific gravity seemed really low so I let it go another 20 minutes before raising the temp to 155°F, where I planned to mash for 15 minutes, but again my SG was off so I doubled that time too. I was expecting my efficiency to be higher than estimated and did get about 0.015 points higher than my recipe OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a mistake since I needed to calculate my efficiency for this new process. I should have just done a single extraction step at a single temperature that would have had more predictable results. I will do that next and use idoine to see if conversion is complete but I was wondering if I could learn anything from this process and if it was a good idea to determine my mash time based on my SG readings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15220" LastEditorUserId="15220" LastEditDate="2017-09-05T06:17:57.787" LastActivityDate="2017-09-10T14:06:11.803" Title="Does specific gravity keep increasing after conversion is complete?" Tags="|mashing|beginner|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21857" CreationDate="2017-09-02T12:04:40.923" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tbh I'm not sure what the question is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Palmer in one of Brew Strong podcasts says that approx 80% of all conversion occurs within the first 20 minutes or so. Longer mash time is required to finish conversion of remaining &quot;long tail&quot;. Brulosophy's Marshall Schott also says you can cut total mash time from 60 to 45 minutes without much impact on the taste and gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The modern malts most likely don't require all that step mash black magic. I used to do step mashes, overnight mashes, even a decoction once or twice, but when I switched to single infusions, I didn't see any difference in efficiency, fermentability or taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the point of this ramble is.. What I'd do (and, in fact, did). Do 1 hour single infusion mash at 148, then short mashout at 175, measure your system's efficiency, record that parameter in Beersmith (or whatever brewing software you use) and stop worrying about it. That will free up thinking resources to worry about really important stuff like yeast health and water chemistry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2017-09-02T12:04:40.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21865" CreationDate="2017-09-02T19:27:37.340" Score="5" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am preparing a heavily dry hopped beer.  So far I have added my home grown yeast on brewing day with multiple hops.  I have dry hopped twice again, and am at the final dry hop 5 days before bottling.  I emptied the collection ball once with no problem, but when I tried to empty it again it was clogged with hops and yeast.  Put on a empty collection ball and opened it but after 4 days still not unclogged (thought the gravity and pressure would loosen).  Any suggestions without having to obtain a large sanitized object to poke holes in the clog from above.  The clog is actually in the bottom of the fermenter where the collection drains into the ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15225" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T13:17:50.363" Title="Ideas about clearing a clogged collection ball on conical fermenter" Tags="|yeast|techniques|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21833" CreationDate="2017-09-04T15:39:00.070" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only definitive information I could find specific to your question was in the book &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=s9tf70Wk3bYC&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;pg=PA466#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Malts and Malting&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'[Malt] must be stored cool and dry in sealed stores [...] to arrest the decline in enzyme levels'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One brief and somewhat vague sentence in 750 pages may give you an idea of how little professional maltsters and brewers seem to concern themselves with loss of enzymes/diastatic power throughout the course of proper storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/jib.144/full&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is another study&lt;/a&gt; published in the Journal of the Institute of Brewing which investigates changes in malts over a period of 12 months at different temperatures and humidities. In it, the conclusion is drawn that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'The sugar content in the sweet wort was constant throughout malt storage, showing that the major components in the malt and the starch-degrading enzymatic activity were intact.'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, from a theoretical standpoint enzymatic activity (and therefore DP) absolutely does decline with time. Thanks to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Entropy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;entropy&lt;/a&gt;, we can be relatively assured that enzymes will have a tendency towards denaturing (a less ordered state) and not spontaneously &quot;re&quot;nature themselves, resulting in a net decline in activity. Luckily, when stored cool and dry this will be an incredibly gradual process, on the order of years, maybe even decades. But we also know we have to deal with two factors which accelerate enzymatic loss: elevated temperature and elevated moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's think about this a bit more, as it applies to your malt-in-question. The study I linked above looks at the effects of malt storage at either 10 or 20 degrees C (50 or 68 degrees F) at a different relative humidities which equate to roughly 8% and 12% malt moisture, showing no significant loss of enzymes. You say maybe your grain hit 80 degrees F. Could this account for a significant loss of DP? That depends on how long it sat there, but it certainly will be worse off than if it hadn't gotten that warm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also say it was stored air-tight but, over the course of a year and a half and with (presumably) multiple openings, your malt could easily have achieved (and almost certainly did) a much higher moisture content than it started with. For example, given &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.currentresults.com/Weather/Maryland/humidity-by-month.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;my local climate&lt;/a&gt;, assuming a year-round average relative humidity of 65% (for simplicity) I can safely guess that malt stored for a significant length of time here might eventually reach ~12-14% moisture, as it comes into equilibrium with the environment. For reference, you'd expect a fresh and properly stored base malt to have a moisture content of ~4-6%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's well established that enzyme destruction is much more significant at higher moisture contents, given a certain temperature, so I think it's safe to say that with the conditions you describe there was certainly the &lt;em&gt;possibility&lt;/em&gt; for significant loss of diastatic power. Also, as you point out, beta amylase is a more sensitive enzyme and will be prone to a greater degree of destruction in a given set of conditions. This seems to be born out in the specific issues you are having with the malt. Regarding loss of enzymes to direct-fire heat, it stands to reason that a malt which is already enzymatically 'compromised' will suffer a more drastic loss of DP than a more sound, fresh malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, it's easy to say that, theoretically, yes DP should reduce with time (albeit very slowly), but is incredibly difficult to say to what degree it is lost in any given situation, for any given malt, even if you know as much as you can about the storage conditions and the state of the grain. I think the only fool-proof way to answer that question would be to perform an actual test of the diastatic power on the grain in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2017-09-04T15:39:00.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21833" CreationDate="2017-09-04T21:56:34.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best I can do this evening is this, but I will dig further: &lt;a href=&quot;http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.2005.tb00646.x/full&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.2005.tb00646.x/full&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is PDF link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.2005.tb00646.x/pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.2005.tb00646.x/pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-09-04T21:56:34.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21890" CreationDate="2017-09-05T05:22:10.390" Score="2" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current setup is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;CO2 tank -&amp;gt; regulator -&amp;gt; barb -&amp;gt; tube -&amp;gt; ball lock disconnect -&amp;gt;&#xA;keg -&amp;gt; ball lock disconnect -&amp;gt; tube -&amp;gt; barb -&amp;gt; faucet&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the gas tube passes through a hole on the side of my refrigerator, and it is cumbersome to remove either side of that tube (regulator side or keg side), I'd like a way to have the following setup instead to be able to take the CO2 tank away easily:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;CO2 tank -&amp;gt; regulator -&amp;gt; barb -&amp;gt; some disconnect -&amp;gt; some disconnect -&amp;gt; tube -&amp;gt; etc.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you suggest for the disconnects to use here? The barb on the low pressure side of the regulator could also be something else I guess and then I could have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;CO2 tank -&amp;gt; regulator -&amp;gt; some disconnect -&amp;gt; tube -&amp;gt; etc.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as I can disconnect from close to the regulator and not from the keg, that's what I'm looking for. Note that something that stops the flow of gas (like ball locks do) would be ideal because I don't want the keg to push its CO2 out as soon as I disconnect the regulator (I could also disconnect from the keg first, then disconnect from the regulator, but I'd prefer not to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15391" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T19:25:22.870" Title="What to use for quick gas line disconnect, barb on both sides?" Tags="|kegging|tubing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21857" CreationDate="2017-09-05T06:11:17.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer for your question is no. But I don't really understand what you were measuring during the mash steps. Mash is usually thick until you do a sparge to get the most solids out of your grain. You usually measure your SG after the sparge (pre-boil SG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until you know your equipment effectiveness more accurately, this is just about hitting approximate values. But you can easily correct your SG before boiling by just adding water (to lower SG) or boiling out more water (with longer boil time or adding heat power to raise SG). There are some calculators to measure the amount of water needed for this, just search for 'Dilution And Boiloff Gravity Calculator'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the refractometer measurements during the mash steps - don't do that. They are much useless during that period. Just take them after sparge and correct SG if required as noted above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to know if your conversion is actually complete there is a simple solution for this - &lt;code&gt;iodine test&lt;/code&gt;. Just get a iodine tincture (alcohol iodine solution), take a liquid part (without solids of grain) of your wort from the mash and add a tiny drop of iodine. If conversion are done it shouldn't change it's color. If it turns blue of violet this means starch is still present and you must continue with conversion. If it doesn't changes it's color that means the conversion are complete (though some processes still goes on affection your FG/body, that is why mashout is recommended, to stop those). Also if it's red that means the conversion is &lt;em&gt;nearly&lt;/em&gt; complete, starch is absent but some of the long dextrins are still in place which is might be actually good for a very full bodied beers. Iodine test is much more accurate if you really want to know if your starch conversion are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15209" LastEditorUserId="15209" LastEditDate="2017-09-05T06:26:13.203" LastActivityDate="2017-09-05T06:26:13.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21857" CreationDate="2017-09-05T16:01:50.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Conversion of starches to sugar is only part of the issue. The iodine test will tell you when the starches are gone, but it won't tell you which sugars are in the solution. A longer mash will allow the longer sugars to be broken down into shorter ones. That may not affect SG but it will affect fermentability. Since a refractometer is adjusted to read simple sugars, it may respond to that change, but a hydrometer would not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that patience is rewarded when making beer, and I am trying to simplify my process. I no longer use an iodine test and just let it sit for an hour at my desired temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14959" LastActivityDate="2017-09-05T16:01:50.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21859" CreationDate="2017-09-06T13:17:50.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe swirling the conical if it's small enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that really the only way is to attach a gas fitting to the collection valve in place of the bulb and shoot some cO2 up there to burb the hop trub up from the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T13:17:50.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2017-09-07T01:58:56.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our club had the local pro cider maker speak last night. He said he generally uses London Ale yeast for his products.  I think the bottom line is  you use the strain to get the cider you want.  Try things!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T01:58:56.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-07T18:36:13.687" Score="4" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to take a 6000 watt 240 volt power controller and a stainless steel 15.5 gallon beer keg and run three separate 2000 watt heating elements at the same time for distilling. I want to use 3 elements so I will get a larger boil area and more  evaporation compared to using a single 6000 or 5500 watt element. My beer keg has a 8 inch ferrule fitting on the top to use as a filling port and I have a 8 inch ferrule cap with a 3 inch ferrule on the top of that to attach a 3 inch x 8 foot rectifier column so I have plenty of room to access inside the keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I get 3 low plug side profile heating elements, so that I could use the center element for the power connection and then run a 10 gauge wire conduit to the right an left hand elements, so all 3 can be energized at the same time, and put some kind of low profile plug connector on the center element, so I can unplug the power supply and not have to drag around a 10 gauge power cord that's permanently attached to the keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elements have to be 2000 watts a-piece 3 x 2000 = 6000 watts and be the right size so they could be mounted in the keg at 2, 6 and 10 O'clock positions and be the right size so the elements meet in the center of the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15400" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-09-07T20:38:14.890" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T22:50:59.363" Title="Custom size low profile heating elements" Tags="|induction-heating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21868" CreationDate="2017-09-08T17:19:24.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done a similar thing with multiple elements in one of my 100 litre (26 USgal) kettles with 2*3KW elements, but rather than go for short elements all arranged on the same plane I have two of them mounted at 4 and 8 O'clock, I went for long low heat density elements and offset the planes of their insertion by 1.5in/4 cm, so they cross in the middle, but do not touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get an amazing boil and very little scorching of the wort; which is great when trying to do a very pale, IPA or pale ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T17:19:24.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21887" CreationDate="2017-09-09T16:36:45.843" Score="3" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting all sorts of feedback as for the fermentation times when brewing kombucha from internet blogs, friends brewing at home,...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe different fermentation times will give the kombucha different properties. What is your experience with this? How many days for primary fermentation with Scoby? How many days for secondary fermentation without Scoby and with herbs for instance? What is the absolute minimum and the absolute maximum time of fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15102" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T17:37:38.197" Title="Kombucha fermentation time(s)" Tags="|fermentation|kombucha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11243" CreationDate="2017-09-09T19:51:48.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that yeast processes fructose into alcohol. The common source of fructose is straight sugar (sucrose). The yeast converts the sucrose, or you can pre-treat your bag of sugar, by boiling it up in water with a little acid for 30 minutes. Now you have &quot;invert sugar&quot;, or fructose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, once the yeast uses up all the sugar it stops working, and the wine tastes very tart. To make sweet wine, the fermentation is stopped before all the sugar is used up. This can happen because the alcohol level is too high, or by adding chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a diabetic, I would suggest making a wine with less than the amount of sugar in the recipe, and leaving to ferment until it stops on it's own accord. Then if it tastes like it could strip the enamel of your teeth, then there won't be any sugar in it. Next, add artificial sweetener to taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Haven't tried it myself, so best of luck. Alternatively, run it through an Airstill, and just drink the alcohol neat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15407" LastActivityDate="2017-09-09T19:51:48.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21857" CreationDate="2017-09-10T14:06:11.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it's normal for the SG to rise during a step mash. But will no longer rise once conversion is complete (check with iodine test)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you can monitor the SG during the mash and it is a useful measurement, it's difficult to be accurate. It really needs to be a recirculating mash (RIS) so it's evenly mixed. Also sparge volumes need to be added in as dilution. Full volume BIAB won't have this issue, but usually you won't have RIS in a simple system.&#xA;Many will say the uncovered starches skew the readings in refracto meters and even buoyancy tests. While technically a sound caution, it's not what I've experienced and my readings via refractometer are pretty close if you can capture clean wort. Mainly because the starches are not disolved and mostly hang out in the endosperm until converters to sugar and dissolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-09-10T14:06:11.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-10T14:09:56.237" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time making plum wine, followed a recipe and instructions and one day one have come to find sediment and light brown liquid in my airlock. Should I be worried?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15409" LastActivityDate="2017-09-10T18:53:05.897" Title="Sediment in my airlock day one making plum wine" Tags="|wine|airlock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-10T17:57:17.377" Score="2" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started my first 2 gallon demijohns of juice. I read that campden tablets should be used first to kill off bacteria but it has started to ferment before the campden tablets went it. Is it better to leave it fermenting and see if bacteria spoils it or should I add campden and re-start it with yeast? &#xA;Thanks&#xA;Ron&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just an update on what I have produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made 6 demijohns of cider in Sept/Oct and in early December transferred all to 1 litre plastic bottles adding a teaspoon of caster sugar to re-ferment and give a bit of fizz to them. I tried one of them over Christmas. Nice fizz, light colour, clearly apple flavour but very dry. An old cider drinking friend of mine said it was just as it should be but its too dry for me (a bit like eating blackcurrants with no sugar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably very unorthodox and will be frowned up on by some but it works. I have opened and added 2 teaspoons of caster sugar + 3 of Xylitol, dissolved in some of the cider, per litre bottle and resealed it. I did this with 4 bottles and after 2/3 weeks, have a very nice cider, not unlike 'Magner's'. The sugar re-starts the ferment but Xylitol is neutral. Just for safety I put the re-started bottles in a big plastic bucket, with a towel over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15410" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T11:08:04.943" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T11:08:04.943" Title="Adding yeast after fermentation has started" Tags="|fermentation|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21873" CreationDate="2017-09-10T18:53:05.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing to worry about unless it overflows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When fermentation is strong, small particles can get pushed out with the co2. It does not look nice but is harmless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the airlock overflows it will make a mess. This can easily happen if fermentation is very strong and there is not enough head space in the fermenter. In that case you should use a blowoff tube, i.e., instead of the airlock put a tube in and lead that to a bucket with some water so that the end of the tube is submerged. If you cannot build a blowoff tube, put the fermenter in a tub or such to contain the mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2017-09-10T18:53:05.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21874" CreationDate="2017-09-10T18:56:06.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to smell it. If it smells only yeasty or fruity, the yeast you pitched is strongest and everything is probably going fine. Leave it fermenting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it smells sour, something else has taken over. You can try to save the batch, but it may be too late. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you take a gravity reading? Take another one and see how much they differ. If not too much, you could try stopping and restarting fermentation, but it most of the sugars are already gone, new yeast won't do you much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2017-09-10T18:56:06.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-11T01:28:02.573" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never dry hopped in a corny keg before.  I purchased a dry hopper with a 300 micron screen.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1.  How do you tie the dry hopper so it floats?  I've heard satin dental floss works well?&#xA;2.  After I rack and add the dry hops I'm assuming I pressurize the keg.  How much pressure do I add?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastActivityDate="2017-09-11T15:29:01.037" Title="Dry hopping in the keg using a dry hopper" Tags="|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22021" CreationDate="2017-09-11T13:31:08.447" Score="1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a portable keg system that a dip tube assembly that has a gas in post, that can take a CO2 feed from a standard regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These units often come with these tiny regulators that accept CO2 bulbs, but they are rubbish at maintaining a useful dispense pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I have a normal regulator how would I connect one of those CO2 bulbs to it? Any parts I should get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15415" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T16:05:59.107" Title="What parts do I need to connect a CO2 bulb to a normal regulator" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21877" CreationDate="2017-09-11T15:29:01.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I use monofilament and tie to the diptube.  But I use muslin bags&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;as much as you normally do&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-09-11T15:29:01.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20284" CreationDate="2017-09-12T01:26:15.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been doing this for years but with the spear removed and a 2&quot; tri-clamp fitting. Fermenting a no-chill IPA now!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dfTJS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dfTJS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15420" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T01:26:15.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20294" CreationDate="2017-09-12T06:42:22.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advice given to me by a professional cider brewer was to put the fruit flavouring in at the last possible moment i.e. At bottling. Use natural fruit pressed and filtered. I have put a small amount i.e. About a teaspoon of fruit pulp to 1ltr still cider and that is sufficient for a very nice blackberry blush which doesn't overpower the cider and isn't too sweet. The small amount has added very little sparkle.&#xA;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15421" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T06:42:22.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21883" CreationDate="2017-09-12T18:38:10.520" Score="1" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed the stout of my dreams back on Monday the 7th of August. It's a 9.5% imperial which hits all my buttons. I then bottled it on the 24th of August, adding the appropriate amount of sugar to the priming vessel before filling the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it transpired that I made the sugar paste too thick, and as I got to the last few bottles I could see way too much sugar sitting on the bottom of the vessel, meaning it hadn't made its way into the bottles! Pushed for time I had to cut my losses and see what happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here we are now on the 12th of September, and despite being held at 18 degrees c, the carb level on the stout of my dreams is miserable. I want to save this batch, and I'm considering one of three options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Open the bottle, add brewing sugar, recap the bottle, move on to the next bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Open the bottle, add a mixture of brewing sugar and yeast cake, recap the bottle, move on to the next bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Open the bottle, add a mixture of high krausen yeast starter and sugar, recap the bottle, move on to the next bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you do, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15423" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-09-13T02:25:39.280" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T02:25:39.280" Title="Fixing an underprimed imperial stout" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|priming|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21882" CreationDate="2017-09-13T02:23:23.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would do #1&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because, if you used sufficient and healthy yeast during fermentation, there is no need to add more.  I would try one bottle and if one week later the result is satisfactory, then I would do the rest of the batch (if not then adjust the sugar quantity).  Make the sure to store at ideal temperature for bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add more yeast only if the yeast used was old (one year or more) and less effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: make sure the yeast you used can handle 10% ABV, otherwise add some that will.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T02:23:23.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21885" CreationDate="2017-09-13T02:44:36.573" Score="2" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like the only reason to add plain sugar is to boost ABV without changing flavor. If I want a lighter beer, can I just leave out the sugar? Or will that affect the flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not talking about dark candi syrups or raw sugar like turbinado. I know they contribute unique flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15424" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T16:20:02.047" Title="Leave out the sugar in a Belgian tripel?" Tags="|sugar|belgian|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21884" CreationDate="2017-09-13T04:39:54.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alcohol itself adds to flavour/aroma, and to perception of body, the latter being critical for tripel, characterized by its dryness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the answer depends on what you mean by &quot;lighter&quot; here. If you mean just &quot;less alcohol&quot;, then sure, leave out the sugar. If &quot;lighter&quot; is about compounded &lt;em&gt;perception&lt;/em&gt; of lightness, then you may want to reduce grain, too. In any case, it won't be tripel anymore. If you're after a crisp light beer with a belgian twist, check out the sort called &quot;trappist single&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T04:39:54.043" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21884" CreationDate="2017-09-13T16:20:02.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you leave it out, you will not have a tripel.  Even more than alcohol, the sugar is there for what's referred to as &quot;digestibility&quot;.  It lightens the body of the beer.  If you leave it out you will be making a different style of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T16:20:02.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21870" CreationDate="2017-09-13T17:37:38.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Primary fermentation&quot; with SCOBY is really about inoculating the brew. Three days should be enough after which one can remove the SCOBY (kombucha &quot;mother&quot;) and use it elsewhere. How long to leave fermenting in the secondary stage is really a question of how much sugar/nutrient has been added, what the ambient temperature is and how sweet/sour one likes one's drink. I prefer to use ginger beer plant now but when I used Kombucha, I left the whole brew (with SCOBY) fermenting for about a week (or so) before straining into a secondary/final bottle. I have not found the addition of some fruit or some flavouring herbs to affect the fermentation time very much - just the taste. Adding some extra &quot;complex&quot; carbohydrates via fruit can add a day to the total but YMMV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SCOBY is usually a fusion of various organic agents including an Gluconacetobacter, an acetobacter, a lactobacter and a yeast. The sourness develops over time and usually takes a week to get &quot;sour&quot; and is usually too sour after 2 weeks or so at room temperature. The yeast will produce alcohol and CO2, the lacto will mainly produce lactic acid. The acetobacter need the alcohol to produce the acetic acid. So the brew usually get slightly fizzy and slightly sour in the first few days at room temp. The sourness will then increase as acetic acid is produced from the alcohol. That usually happens in days 3-7. For a &quot;normal&quot; tea/sugar base mix the fermentation is mostly over in one week and almost completely over in two weeks. Temperature decrease will cause these timings to increase. Varying the temperature may also affect the flavour subtly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO absolute minimum time to ferment very partially but usefully is about 3 days. Many would recommend something like 7-10 days.  I have never found any use in fermenting beyond 21 days. It is usually quite sour to taste by then. Kombucha brews (without SCOBY mother) can be stored in bottles for some weeks (months even) without ill effect. IIRC the acetic acid is not produced in anaerobioc conditions but the lactobacillius may continue producing lactic acid (and the yeast, alcohol) until the nutrients run out.  So the brew will naturally age in the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T17:37:38.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21888" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-13T18:54:05.140" Score="1" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like my homebrew might have died off and wanted to know what the best approach would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took an OG reading of 1.050. After hearing it bubble all night, which was great, I woke up and noticed the bubbling had stopped. Fair enough. I left it for a few days and didn't get any other signs of the yeast continuing. There is slight residue, but nothing like a thick foam or anything on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to take a gravity reading. The reading after three days was around 1.037. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, I haven't seen any further activity within the FV. I'm now worried that it may have stopped fermenting and that all of that sugar is just sat there which will turn into sugar water - yuck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there's any way to save this, or if I should just give up and act as a lost cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI the primary fermenting has happened for 7 days now. I took a gravity reading on day 3 as I was a little worried!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers and thankyou.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15427" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-09-14T17:34:43.587" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T17:34:43.587" Title="Saving my home brew" Tags="|yeast|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21888" CreationDate="2017-09-14T02:57:36.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Logically, fermentation stops if either/both: a) nothing for yeast to eat, b) no yeast to eat the sugars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. Review your recipe. If there is much crystal/cara-whatever grain, which provides non-fermentables, then FG of 1.03 may be it. Lactose is not fermentable, too, by the way, but I don't think 100g of lactose contributes to what it seems as 0.020 gravity points overshoot. Easiest way to check: put your recipe into a calculator, e.g. Beersmith or Homebrewer's Friend (the latter is freely available online).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B. If you're sure there's still food for yeast in there, but unsure if there's still yeast, e.g. if you added not enough yeast long past expiry date etc.. Make a small (0.5l) starter with &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; yeast using malt extract, make sure it's properly aerated and is actively fermenting (like, with small krauzen, bubbles etc -- you will need maybe 12 hours for that) and add it to the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T02:57:36.393" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21862" CreationDate="2017-09-14T19:25:22.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Full disclosure:&lt;/strong&gt; I have not implemented this solution yet but this is the approach to which I'm leaning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I've been trying to solve the same problem. Currently I like the idea of using disconnects like those produced by &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008V1XSPY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CPC&lt;/a&gt;. They are rated to 120psi, are valved (automatically stop the flow of gas/liquid when disconnected) and I believe they are BPA free. Using these has the added benefit of being able to create an array of quick disconnect components to match different needs (pin/ball kegs, purging attachments, etc...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside I see to using these is that they appear bulky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea would be to swap the barbs on your regulator for MFL fittings but they would not facilitate &lt;em&gt;quickly&lt;/em&gt; removing the gas lines and they are not valved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2011/09/making-utility-co2-line-using-luer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; on homebrewfinds.com lead me to this solution but I didn't like the Luer disconnects b/c they're not valved and because I had concerns regarding the material they're made of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15432" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T19:25:22.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-14T23:10:20.053" Score="0" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a no of kegs both 50L and 30L kegs from my own private bar ,I'm just wondering if I can carbonate my own cider in the keg similar to carbonating to the  bottles of cider &#xA;cheers and thanks in advance &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15434" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-09-15T15:09:18.340" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T16:32:01.297" Title="can I carbonate a keg with my own cider" Tags="|carbonation|cider|bottles|kegs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21891" CreationDate="2017-09-15T15:13:03.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to carbonate your keg using priming sugar, there are several posts with a lot of information already:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/20510/carbonation-in-a-5-gallon-keg-with-priming-sugar/20514#20514&quot;&gt;carbonation in a 5 gallon keg with priming sugar&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1767/using-a-keg-for-secondary-fermentation-and-natural-carbonation&quot;&gt;Using a keg for secondary fermentation and natural carbonation&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/12899/why-is-less-bottling-sugar-required-when-naturally-carbonating-in-a-keg-versus-b&quot;&gt;why is less bottling sugar required when naturally carbonating in a keg...&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-09-15T15:13:03.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21894" CreationDate="2017-09-15T20:30:12.897" Score="1" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having my first go at home brewing by making elderberry wine. So far so good. &#xA;I've just put the wine in a demijohn for the anaerobic stage of the process. Based on what I read I've filled the demijohn so there is no gap between the liquid and the bung. I'm using a bubbler airlock. the wine has been in there for a few hours and wine has been pushed into the base stem of the bubbler and the water has been pushed into one side of the bubbler even though I initially set it up with both sides half full. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From all the videos I've watched this doesn't seem right. Though I thought I'd ask and see if the best thing to do is just leave the bubbler as it is with the wine in the bottom of the stalk. Or take the bung and bubbler out, sanitize them, drain a tiny bit of wine from the neck to create a small gap between the bung and the liquid and then replace the bubbler. Which is the correct approach? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks for reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15436" LastActivityDate="2017-09-16T21:18:44.943" Title="Elderberry wine making: Is wine entering the bubbler airlock usual?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|airlock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21893" CreationDate="2017-09-16T13:48:36.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My instant advice is to take the bung out of the demi-john, pour out  enough liquid to leave at least 2 inches (or more) above the liquid. Flush/clean the bubble trap and refill as before, then fit the bubble trap back on . Leave wine to ferment as normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There REALLY SHOULD be an air gap above a fermenting liquid in a demi-john as the fermentation can produce vigorous bubbling and a large volume of surface foam. When that happens the only place for the foam/juice to go in a filled demi-john is up into the bubble trap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fermenting brew can handle a reasonable amount of air without problem. So the fact there is some air above the fermenting juice is OK. I usually do not fill a demi-john above its &quot;shoulder&quot; (where the glass bends from vertical towards the neck). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-09-16T21:18:44.943" LastActivityDate="2017-09-16T21:18:44.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-16T21:52:31.420" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am experiencing a lag in conversion of sugars during fermentation.  I have been told in the past that how well I crush grains or stick to the absolute temperature during mash can throw off my figures.  Then another friend recommended Amylaze Enzyme would increase the rate over time of conversions of starch once thoroughly brewed and sparged into the wort.  Does anyone use Amylaze Enzyme routinely and how well does it work.  I always place additional base light malt whenever use large amounts of hops (just my preference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15225" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T10:08:13.057" Title="Amylaze Enzyme for conversion" Tags="|amylase-enzymes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21896" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-17T06:17:42.627" Score="5" ViewCount="1615" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am brewing with fruit and just added 6 pounds of apricots in syrup to a 7 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to understand how the abv will be affected since fermentation just kicked off again vigorously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to calculate the abv?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T19:45:50.730" Title="Calculating abv with fruit on secondary" Tags="|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21901" CreationDate="2017-09-17T06:19:24.610" Score="0" ViewCount="520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a batch of apricot honey ale. i just added my appricots on secondary and want to dry hop later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to rack the beer to tertiary before dry hopping or just throw in the hops once the second fermentation of the fruit stops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T15:38:05.680" Title="Dry hopping fruit beer" Tags="|fruit|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-17T09:36:15.823" Score="4" ViewCount="6863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was drinking some caramelized cranberry tea today &lt;em&gt;(that is, cranberry-flavored tea sweetened with caramelized sugar, or maltose, or malt sugar, whatever you wanna call it)&lt;/em&gt;. It tasted very sweet, and something came to my mind...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... why not add some yeast to turn it into an alcoholic beverage? Is that even possible? And how would the result taste? Is this a good idea to begin with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the tea - whether it's from authentic stuff, or a cheap teabag - provide a good environment for the yeast to turn the sugar into alcohol? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Just for the record, disregard the first paragraph of my question when answering my question, I just wanted to tell about what was I doing when the idea just flew into my head.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I am &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; talking about kombucha. I am talking about fermenting sugar-sweetened tea into an alcoholic beverage, if that is even possible, or viable to begin with.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15438" LastActivityDate="2023-11-09T17:55:36.237" Title="Fermenting sugary tea into an alcoholic beverage?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|sugar|tea|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21895" CreationDate="2017-09-17T10:08:13.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Amylase enzyme basically works by breaking down maltodextrins (longer chain sugars) to simpler sugars that the yeast can ferment. The effect of this is to decrease the specific gravity of the final brew. This makes the beer lighter and less turbid - typical of a pilsner. The enzyme is often called pilsner enzyme becuase of this particular use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The enzyme works best at higher temperature similar to that found in a mash tun but will work effectively albeit more slowly at the temperatures found in the fermenting vessel. It works well enough that many brewers aiming to make a lighter lower FG beer use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T10:08:13.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21898" CreationDate="2017-09-17T15:33:05.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, as long as there are no antifungals or similar metabolic inhibitors then anything with simple sugars at a suitable dilution, temperature and pH can be fermented with yeast. That includes sweet tea. Tea &lt;em&gt;per se&lt;/em&gt; brings very little to the fermentation, maybe some minor nutrients. At best it is a flavouring agent. Maybe if one got the mix just right one could make naturally fermented &quot;Manhattan tea&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How the result would taste depends on the taster and the type of tea being used. Is it a good idea? That would depend on the definition of &quot;good&quot; and the purpose of brewing it. In principle it would probably taste better than just fermented sugar water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10731/how-do-i-ferment-homemade-brewed-tea-a-black-tea&quot;&gt;There are some answers to a similar question on stackexchange here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T15:33:05.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21897" CreationDate="2017-09-17T15:38:05.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some brewers and commentators say not to dry hop during active fermentation as the release of CO2 from the fermenting vessel may take some of the hop aroma and flavour. IMHO that is not particularly noticeable on the final product and so I dry hop at anytime during the brew process - most noticeably from day 4 until (say) day 14. IMHO there is no need to rack the beer into a third brew bin to dry hop it. It would be just as easy and effective to do it in the secondary bin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T15:38:05.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21898" CreationDate="2017-09-18T19:45:25.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why you couldn't do this. Although, I think you'd want to make a beer or mead as a base since just sugar won't give you much flavor. How to make &lt;a href=&quot;https://delishably.com/beverages/Recipe-How-to-make-Wine-from-Tea&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tea wine&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-09-18T19:45:25.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21906" CreationDate="2017-09-18T22:43:34.983" Score="2" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if it's possible to test the mash during mash for an all grain batch to determine concentrations of calcium, magnesium, etc. Or if that is better determined by pre-mash calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do commercial breweries use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone know of an off the shelf test? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15447" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T10:56:45.800" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T10:56:45.800" Title="How to test mash for ion concentrations" Tags="|mash|mashing|calculations|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21905" CreationDate="2017-09-19T04:14:26.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usual practice is to test the source water, then determine what needs to be added. There are two calculators for additions in the form of Excel file, one from John Palmer (howtobrew.com), &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/documents/Kaiser_water_calculator.xls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another from Braukaiser&lt;/a&gt;. I prefer the latter one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Testing-wise, I'd say that for homebrewing just water report from your local water provider is enough. Some pet shops and swimming pool shops (if you have them around) do water tests for cheap/free. If you want to go full geek on this and have extra money, then BrewLab from LaMotte should suffice -- Jamil Z. mentions it a lot in his podcasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During mash the only reasonable measurement to do is probably pH (best range is 5.2-5.4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T04:14:26.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21920" CreationDate="2017-09-19T05:37:42.867" Score="4" ViewCount="3822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm learning there are &quot;gross&quot; lees or the first big batch of sediment and then there are &quot;fine&quot; lees or the subsequent smaller amounts of sediment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Gross&quot; lees can contribute to &quot;gross&quot; flavors, but &quot;fine&quot; lees can contribute to damn &quot;fine&quot; ones :).  After I press, how long should I wait for the gross stuff to settle out?  How do I know when to make the cut between what is good and what is bad for this red?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastEditorUserId="14072" LastEditDate="2018-02-27T19:27:11.337" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T19:27:11.337" Title="How to know *when* to rack off gross lees?" Tags="|wine|lees|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17798" CreationDate="2017-09-19T09:34:12.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For anyone looking for this in the future, you can try &lt;a href=&quot;http://brewsearch.beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewsearch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a neat little random recipe button that will give you 3 new recipes to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15449" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T09:34:12.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21905" CreationDate="2017-09-19T12:40:24.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK the local water company can provide a report on the water quality and content. One would presume that any local water company providing drinking water would perform similar and regular analysis - just to check the water is safe to consume. That would be the easiest and best way to get the information on the amount of ions in the water used. &#xA;In general one is most interested in the levels of Calcium and Magnesium cations and chloride, suplphate, carbonate and bi-carbonate anions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T12:40:24.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21896" CreationDate="2017-09-19T15:48:55.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can easily. When using juice/syrup/slurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you need precise gravity and volume readings.&#xA;Just average the gravity of mixed solution based on syrup volume addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if the wort is 4 gallons of 1.050 OG, and the syrup is 1 gallon of 1.100 SG.&#xA;1.050 (wort gravity)x4 (4g wort volume) =4.2 + 1.1 (1g syrup at 1.1sg) = 5.3 / 5 (total volume)&#xA;Blended OG is 1.060 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the wort is fermented out when the syrup is added this math holds true for final ABV calcs. Using the calculated OG and an actual FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-09-19T17:35:45.187" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T17:35:45.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-20T05:02:42.643" Score="1" ViewCount="884" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's my first time brewing, and I chose a DIY Cooper's kit since I don't have much room in my apartment. Everything went well while dumping the things in the fermenter, although, it seems it has a hole somewhere, since my airlock didn't show activity, but the gravity does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 10 days fermenting at 22-24°C I found the beer to have gone from 1040 to 1010, but the problem is it has an aroma like a wine, or a champagne rather than beer. I've read in some blogs that it may be due to the beer needing to mature, or it could be the beer being infected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15452" LastEditorDisplayName="user8292" LastEditDate="2018-11-21T12:54:37.813" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T12:54:37.813" Title="Beer having an aroma more like wine/champagne" Tags="|fermentation|beer|sanitation|maturation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21912" CreationDate="2017-09-20T06:24:03.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's only aroma, how it smells. You are lucky. It could also smell sulphury, which does not in itself indicate a problem, but in that case it could be that the yeast had not had enough nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if it smells like champagne or wine, and it gets you an appetite, that is a good sign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since this is a rather light beer, it will not smell as strong like beer (yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And last, let someone else smell it too. If there is one thing I learned being busy in the kitchen and brewing, it is that different people have different perceptions of smells and tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the thing to take away is: if it really smells like a good drink, then it will be a good drink. Still, take care at bottling. Work hygienic!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-09-20T06:24:03.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21912" CreationDate="2017-09-20T12:24:05.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple and IMHO best advice is to continue with the brewing/bottling process as normal. Nothing that has been written above indicates any immediate problem. I would advise not so much opening and closing of the vessel during the main part of fermentation. IMHO it is good to take the O.G. then leave the brew to ferment for (say) 12 days without being examined. Then take the S.G. for three days. if it is stable over 3 consecutive days then the brew can be primed and bottled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is well worth noting that beer can and usually will change considerably in flavour and aroma while ageing in the bottle. Beer that has been aged 6 months in the bottle will usually taste considerably better than beer than has just carbonated after two weeks in the bottle. Beer that might seem &quot;disagreeable&quot; when sampled from the brew bin may improve to become &quot;the best ever&quot; after a year's ageing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooper's (and many others) make a very nice beer kit and are a nice introduction to home brewing. I hope this is the first of many brews. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-09-20T12:24:05.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21907" CreationDate="2017-09-21T18:36:05.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;FYI I have not made wine before, but I do have a friend at a shop that has.&#xA;She states to rack after vigorous primary fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from my research, gross lees is the first lees after fermentation. &#xA;and fine lees is everything that settles after that first racking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://winemakersacademy.com/gross-vs-fine-lees/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://winemakersacademy.com/gross-vs-fine-lees/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://winemakersacademy.com/racking-lees/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://winemakersacademy.com/racking-lees/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2017-09-21T18:36:05.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-23T04:12:07.047" Score="6" ViewCount="746" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a saison which I racked onto secondary together with apricot puree. One week down the line I did a measurement and noticed the fruit puree is suspended in the beer. I think I'll wait for another week to dry hop and then another one before bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just wondering, will the puree settle down? If not what are my options to keep these bits and pieces out of my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T19:19:53.350" Title="Fruit puree suspended in beer" Tags="|fruit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21916" CreationDate="2017-09-23T06:17:12.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will usually drop out just fine, with just cold crashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found the fruit puree drops out really well with gelatin and cold crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are particles I've found that really only drop out with a lot of aging. For example long chain proteins from bacteria. Many fruit sours may take over a year to age into something that is clear and peak flavor.  Filtering is another option, but can quickly get pricey as many of the filters are single use and it may take several filters for a single batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2017-09-26T19:19:53.350" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T19:19:53.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21916" CreationDate="2017-09-23T08:40:55.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used an industrial centrifuge to clear fruit wines. A rather uncommon piece of equipment but it works rather well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-09-23T08:40:55.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21907" CreationDate="2017-09-23T09:01:24.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gross lees are basically the precipitated fruit/vegetative matter that were mixed with the juice when initially added to the fermenting vessel.  Over time this stuff will settle to the bottom of the primary fermenting vessel. &#xA;The time to rack the wine off the gross lees is when the gross lees have &quot;settled&quot;.  Settling happens something like one week into the p&#xA;fermentation process but YMMV.  Sometimes it can take several weeks, there is no set time for this to happen.  It is relatively obvious when the &quot;big stuff&quot; has sunk to the bottom and there is no more in suspension. At that point rack the wine off the gross lees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one liquidizes the fruit into pulp for use in fermentation then the gross lees are still formed but only as a more homogeneous layer of small particles rather than big lumps of crushed fruit (not to be confused with &quot;fine lees&quot;). That can be more efficient in use of the fruit but it can also be more difficult to separate the &quot;fine&quot; gross lees from the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2018-02-27T07:03:50.073" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T07:03:50.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21907" CreationDate="2017-09-23T22:24:03.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Daniel Pambianchi, in his book &lt;em&gt;Techniques in Home Winemaking&lt;/em&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the wine should not be left for too long on its gross lees to avoid potential spoilage...  the gross lees consist mainly of dead yeast cells, and grapes solids.  The length of time a wine spends on the gross lees is also dependent on the health of the grapes at crush or harvest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you can macerate solids for some time if your grapes were in good condition, and the temperature is cool, then ferment and get rid of gross lees basing yourself on the comments above.  If grapes show some signs or rot, then get rid of gross lees quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;fine lees are beneficial to wines, adding flavour and complexity, when left in contact for up to 6 months ... the lees should be stirred on a weekly basis for the first couple months ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="14072" LastEditDate="2018-02-26T13:54:25.077" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T13:54:25.077" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-24T09:06:09.063" Score="2" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a country where alcohol is banned and of course all equipments and materials related to brewing are banned as well, I tried turning non alcoholic beer into beer a couple of times but the results weren't so great, so I'm trying another method now, but I feel I'm doing something wrong, here are the ingredients I'm using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x370g malt extract (bought from health food store, the brand name is Meridian)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x500g dextrose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50g hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;baking yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I boiled 1 gallon of water then added malt extract and dextrose when they dissolved, I added the hops and boiled for 60 minutes poured the wort into a 5 gallon carboy and filled with water, activated the yeast in 12oz of water and 50g of table sugar then added to the wort, affixed the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been 4 days now, the fermentation process seems to be going fine, but I didn't get the nasty foam I usually get when I turn non alcoholic beer into regular beer, the color is dark brown and VERY cloudy.&#xA;I don't know if I did something wrong, and I'm afraid to wait for few weeks then get an undrinkable &quot;beer&quot;, please let me know if there's anything wrong with my method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15469" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-09-24T17:47:14.400" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T08:07:27.623" Title="Using health food malt extract" Tags="|process|beginner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-24T12:38:06.143" Score="3" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making wine from black homburg grapes and the primary fermentation has completed (10days). I didn't have a hydrometer at the start, but have transferred the juice from the must to 2 1/2 demijohns and noticed there is no more fermentation, so I then found the sg was about 994 and realised I should have added sugar at the start of primary. How can I calculate how much sugar to add at this stage? Should I go back to primary fermentation in an open container with loose cover or keep it in the demijohns?&#xA;Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15470" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T08:17:05.853" Title="Forgot to add sugar" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|secondary|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21924" CreationDate="2017-09-24T15:13:40.470" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to brew a Belgium Tripel but using all American ingredients, specifically from the Southwestern United States.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would Agave Nectar impart a different flavor than using a Belgium Candi Syrup? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15471" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T07:58:45.110" Title="Agave Nectar vs Candi Syrup" Tags="|belgian|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21923" CreationDate="2017-09-24T15:40:55.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, it will.  Probably not bad, but different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T15:40:55.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-24T18:29:48.113" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've come across a peculiar issue with my latest brew.  After fermenting I bottle condition and use Coopers Carbonation drops for consistency (and because of laziness).  Normally all is well but in this batch some bottles have come out fine and some produce a geyser of beer seconds after opening.  What could have caused this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13807" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T18:50:19.150" Title="Inconsistent Gas Levels" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-24T18:47:05.497" Score="1" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a hard root beer 2-3 months ago. Right from the start the beers have been way too foamy. I've had to pour each one into a pitcher in order to contain the foam. The basics of the recipe was a light ale with root beer concentrate and brown sugar added. The recipe called to mix the brown sugar cold. I didn't think that was right but did it anyhow. There is residue in each bottle that I think might be brown sugar that never dissolved. If it is brown sugar, could that be the cause of the foam. I want to do another batch, but want to correct the foamy issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12529" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T12:03:17.937" Title="Hard root beer way too foamy" Tags="|root-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21925" CreationDate="2017-09-24T23:16:42.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually such odd gushers are associated with infection by e.g. wild yeast which have higher attenuation. You may want to do a side-by-side taste of normal vs gusher bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T23:16:42.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21921" CreationDate="2017-09-24T23:25:08.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;4 days into fermentation your beer surely will be cloudy as hell, so no worries on that front. It will start cleaning up in a week or so. You may then want to facilitate that process by adding small amount of gelatin solution (google &quot;clarifying homebrew with gelatin&quot;). Color-wise, you should expect malt extracts to have that amber-brown colour, it's just an artifact of industrial malt extraction and drying process (Maillard reaction etc). Your process looks OK, all things considered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T23:25:08.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21923" CreationDate="2017-09-25T07:58:45.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used maple syrup when making Belgian style beer - which was nice but gave a different result to Candi syrup. Not a great difference and definitely not a bad difference, but it was detectable. Perhaps a bit more caramel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T07:58:45.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21922" CreationDate="2017-09-25T08:01:02.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't search for the moment, but search for a chaptalising calculator on the internet (will definitely change this answer when I can search).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T08:01:02.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21922" CreationDate="2017-09-25T08:17:05.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO for this situation it is best to leave the wine as it is and bottle when appropriate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one does not know the O.G. of the brew then it is very difficult to guess what it was and thus to attempt to take any corrective action. If the grapes were ripe and well formed then they may well have had enough sugar to make reasonable wine - or they may have been sugar deficient. How could one tell? It is very difficult if not impossible. Obviously there was a sufficient amount of sugar originally present to produce enough alcohol to the F.G down to 0.994. So that is a good sign. As this is not a great amount (about 5L/1gal?) I would recommend leaving it to age, bottle it then leave it for a year and see what the natural juice fermentation produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one really wanted to experiment then one could put another 25g of sugar in one demi-john and see how that went. The only problems with such a scheme is the yeast may have reached its attenuation point (so adding more sugar will only make the wine sweeter) or the use of unsterilised sugar my introduce some other microbe that may act to affect the taste of the wine. However at what point would one stop adding the sugar? Its a moot point... perhaps best to put this down to experience/learning and remember next time! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T08:17:05.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21921" CreationDate="2017-09-25T08:44:39.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;5gals/24L of beer made with 1Kg of (liquid) malt extract and 1Kg of sugar will be rather weak/thin. I would recommend at least 2Kg (or even 3Kg) of malt extract with the sugar in 5gal/24L. Depending on the hop variety the hops might be increased to (for example) 100g, especially if more malt is added. Meridian is quite a dark (&quot;amber&quot;) coloured extract so this will yield a mid tone beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baking yeast - often not a bad yeast but may well give some problems trying to ferment higher alcohol beer. Maybe better to use a high attenuation brewing yeast like Safale04 or Safale05 or Danstar &quot;Nottingham&quot;. It may also be worth trying to use a higher temperature yeast unless you have air-con to keep things around 20C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth noting that there is no need to boil the malt extract for 60 minutes - only the hops. My preferred method is to boil the hops alone in water and then strain the boiling water to the fermenting vessel and maybe wash the hops with more boiling water. Then add the extract and sugar to the boiled water in the fermenting vessel and stir it into solution. The boiled water will pasteurise the extract and sugar. Then add tap water (or what you prefer) to the vessel to make up the volume to that desired. The wort is sufficiently cooled by this process that the yeast starter can be added immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer already brewing could be adjusted with more malt (not really sugar) and kept brewing but it may be best to let the current brew complete and adjust the recipe for the next one. It is worth noting that beer improves greatly when aged in the bottle. Two months is good but 6 months gives much better results. Good luck with the desert brewing! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-09-26T08:07:27.623" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T08:07:27.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21926" CreationDate="2017-09-26T11:54:16.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No dissolved CO2 = no foam. Even the soapiest, lipid/protean saturated liquids don't foam if there are no included/dissolved gasses. So one thing to try is to reduce the amount of sugar added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dissolving the brown sugar in cold water is not unreasonable but dissolving it in (less volume of) boiled water and then diluting down will pasteurise the sugar to reduce the possible effect of other &quot;wild&quot; bacteria/fungi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the question gives too little detail about process and ingredients to give a more accurate answer. How is this brew fermented? When is it bottled and what is the F.G of the bottled brew? What priming of the bottled brew (if any) is done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-09-26T12:03:17.937" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T12:03:17.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21916" CreationDate="2017-09-26T17:49:01.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a pumpkin beer where I used copious amounts of cooked pumpkin in the secondary. After fermentation subsided, the pumpkin in the secondary was suspended to the point it was more like a smoothie in consistency. I actually did a combination of things to clear the beer; first I racked it into a bucket through a larger strainer (both sanitized). Then I added &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0064O9E44&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;liquid isinglass&lt;/a&gt; and watched that for a couple of weeks. After which I cold crashed and then kegged. It still had considerable haze but was no longer the smoothie consistency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T17:49:01.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21925" CreationDate="2017-09-26T18:50:19.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you prime (add sugar) per bottle I would advise you change and batch prime as its easier and more consistent, method detailed below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I do to ensure a consistent carbonation level is use the calculator found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; to determine how much sugar to add (corn sugar is dirt cheap) and then do as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weigh out the required amount of sugar into a pan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add enough water to just dissolve the sugar and boil for a couple of minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool sugar solution to room temperature and add to a sanitised bucket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Syphon my fermented beer on top of the sugar solution and gently stir to ensure good distribution of sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle using whatever method you like and leave for 2 weeks at room temp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enjoy!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to watch out for is to ensure you beer has finished fermenting before you bottle. A typical rule of thumb is to wait for 3 consecutive hydrometer readings taken at least a day apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully if you've followed a good sanitisation procedure your inconsistent carbonation levels are NOT due to infection. This can sometimes show as a brown ring around the neck of the bottle and an off smell or flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. I found that the carbonation drops are expensive, terribly inconsistent and had other 'stuff' in so this may actually be the root cause of your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15339" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T18:50:19.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21896" CreationDate="2017-09-26T19:45:50.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another approach, similar in concept, is to determine the sugar content and reference a table. If you are using a puree or other product with a label, check the sugar content and convert into grams per liter or ounces per gallon. Then you can check a chart like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brsquared.org/wine/CalcInfo/HydSugAl.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; to get the gravity addition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, this &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0064OLUQE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blackberry puree&lt;/a&gt; has 12 grams per serving and 10 servings in the container. Ignoring the volume of the puree itself (for simplicity, and most will be left behind), that means we are adding 120 grams or 4.2 oz. If this is a 5 gallon batch, we are adding 4.2oz/5 to get oz/gallon, which is going to be roughly 2.5 gravity points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T19:45:50.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-27T17:00:39.570" Score="2" ViewCount="1227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making home hooch for about a year now.  I put lots of sugar, let it get almost hot, add a good amount of yeast and wait.  I put it in 5 liter plastic jugs with the cover not screwed on.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sometimes I put fresh mint in there or fresh absinth.  I think it's absinth.  They call it Seeba here, in Morocco.&#xA;After about 3 weeks it's clear, and I do nothing after that but drink it.  It's strong!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5L of water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 cups of sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bakers yeast (in 1/2 cup of warm water)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fresh mint (or potatoes or absinth)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I improve on this simple recipe to make it stronger/better flavored?&#xA;I don't want to distill it, because I'd probably kill myself with the results.&#xA;Looking forward to your answers.&#xA;Take care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15476" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-09-27T20:44:17.693" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T17:54:31.847" Title="How to improve my homemade Hooch" Tags="|flavor|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-27T20:19:14.933" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am on day 3 and instructions state &quot;top up 4.54 litres tepid water&quot;. Does this mean top up TO 4.54 litres? Should I leave space in the demijohn and how much space? It's still got 7 to 20 days to ferment yet! Terrible instructions as very vague and badly worded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;JY&#xA;Newbie!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did that and it bubbled up into the airlock! I had to take some liquid out again!  Maybe I've just got a lively must going!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've topped it up again now and it's still quite lively!  Thanks for the advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15477" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-10-05T19:21:10.843" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T19:21:10.843" Title="I have Youngs Elderberry kit" Tags="|fermentation|kits|primary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21938" CreationDate="2017-09-27T20:54:19.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I believe it should say &quot;top up to 4.54L with tap water...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I base myself on existing instructions for another Youngs kit... &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youngsgroup.co.uk/images/instructions/Wine%20Buddy%201g.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youngs wine kit instruction&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal situation is to have very little space left (perhaps 2 inches depending on the size of the container) to avoid oxydation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-09-27T20:54:19.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-30T06:18:34.657" Score="1" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reading the opti-red directions and it says to add at &quot;first punchdown&quot;.  Does that mean right after I add my yeast, 24hours after crushing and sulfating?  Or does that mean 24 hours after adding the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm cold-soaking, should I add opti-red at the start of that process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastActivityDate="2017-09-30T21:12:53.117" Title="When exactly is 'first' punchdown?" Tags="|additives|red-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21985" CreationDate="2017-09-30T11:24:06.700" Score="2" ViewCount="5123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Bangladesh where all alcoholic drinks are forbidden.I tried to make rice wine from bread yeast but consistency of alcohol is very low because of it's low resistance to alcohol.I heard Chinese made their wine yeast ball from nature.Anyone can tell me how i can make my own yeast ball from Bangladeshi ingredient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15487" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T09:54:33.150" Title="how jiuqu or chinese wine yeast ball are made?" Tags="|yeast|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21942" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-30T15:27:04.173" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a few friends use Brewfloors.com flooring systems and they were pretty happy with the results. I'm considering Brewfloors or something else. Do you have other recommendations? If so why? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks guys- Cheers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15488" LastActivityDate="2017-10-04T08:00:56.920" Title="Brew Flooring Systems" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21940" CreationDate="2017-09-30T21:12:53.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Punchdown refers to the action of pushing down the cap.  The cap is formed during maceration by the pomace (the solids) that rise to the surface. Normally punching down the cap twice a day allows the must to be in contact with the pomace to extract more flavour and tannins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, after crushing the must will form a cap after a few hours (or a day).  You will punch down the cap as soon as it forms, so that is the first punchdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-09-30T21:12:53.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-01T02:32:45.400" Score="2" ViewCount="2295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see some references say to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winespectator.com/drvinny/show/id/5274&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;punch down the cap&lt;/a&gt; twice per day, some three or four, some variable throughout the primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a limit to how often I should punch down?  Something negative that bounds how often to punch?  What if a machine theoretically continuously punched down the cap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastEditorUserId="14072" LastEditDate="2017-10-02T22:29:57.997" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T19:15:28.437" Title="Continuously punching down the cap?" Tags="|red-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21946" CreationDate="2017-10-01T03:45:55.587" Score="1" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time brewing my own beer. I plan on making a pale ale using 2x Coopers Light Malt Extract in 5 gallons of water. I've recently bought 100g of each of the following hops (and plan to use only say, 2 of them to learn the proper brewing process and of course, save money):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magnum (11% AA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cascade (5.5% AA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simcoe (13% AA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chinook (13% AA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my first batch, I was thinking @60 - add 50g of Magnum (because it's high in Alpha Acids, so this will make the beer quite bitter) and @12 30g of Cascade (which will add a slight grapefruit-like aroma to the beer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do you think about the amount of hops I'm using? I know it comes to personal taste, but I have absolutely no experience - so your own thoughts would be very valuable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I haven't bought myself any specialty grains. Do you think this is a problem? At my local homebrewer store, I can buy crystal and weyermann caramel varieties; but I don't know if I should bother if it's not needed for my first brew. Again, your personal thoughts would be very valuable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15490" LastEditorUserId="15490" LastEditDate="2017-10-02T04:56:57.000" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T04:48:41.920" Title="Is this an okay recipe?" Tags="|hops|recipe|extract|beginner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21945" CreationDate="2017-10-01T15:53:21.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the AA of the hops, it's pretty much impossible to tell you how much to use.  You can get by without the specialty malts, but steeping maybe 1/2 lb. of C60 will add a bit of depth and freshness to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: OK, I ran it through my brewing software.  That's gonna make VERY bitter beer....you're at 1.042 OG and about 80 IBU!  You either need a couple more cans of extract (which will make the beer stronger to balance the hops and make an IPA) or you need to cut the Magnum back to about 15 gr, which will give you about 32ish IBU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2017-10-02T15:47:07.143" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T15:47:07.143" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-01T17:26:22.507" Score="0" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;So a while back I bought some pasteurized peach cider from a shop on the side of the road. The &quot;100% juice with added ingredients&quot; type of stuff, ya feel me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought an airlock for it because The label says it can ferment and build up pressure so I didn't really want it to explode on my counter and such. Well it's been fermenting for around 3 or 4 months now and I just opened it and the thing smells like wine. I definitely didn't try to put effort into brewing or anything, I was just lazy and never drank it. My question is: is this stuff salvageable? Or should I throw it out before it kills me? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't really have any experience with this stuff so any kind of help on what to do with it next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15491" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T22:10:56.543" Title="My pasteurized peach cider smells like wine" Tags="|fermentation|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21960" CreationDate="2017-10-02T05:11:49.890" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan on brewing my beer and letting it ferment for 2 or so weeks in my garage. Unfortunately there are a lot of fumes (eg. From the car and motorbike) and I'm worried that the fumes may affect the fermenting beer. Note that there isn't really any ventilation. But I do have a bubbler air-stopper in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know if this will affect the quality of the beer, or could it be dangerous to ingest? If so, would you happen to know of any portable ventilation system I could buy to prevent this from being a problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated. Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15490" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T13:59:53.983" Title="Will car/motorbike fumes affect beer fermentation?" Tags="|contamination|off-flavor|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21947" CreationDate="2017-10-02T06:48:18.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, let's clear one thing up. If it says &quot;pasteurised&quot; then it can not ferment. And if it can ferment, then it is not pasteurised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if it did ferment then your peach cider has probably turned into peach wine. If it smells like wine, then it will probably be OK to drink. Be wary of stinking or musky smells. Your wine could of course turn out to be too acid to drink, even if it does smell like wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, although I make grape wine at home, I do not have any knowledge of fruit wines in general. So I hope someone else on the forum can help you further with things to take into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was your goal exactly in buying this? Did you want to brew something, or did you just want something to drink on a later date?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T06:48:18.093" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-02T07:27:09.713" Score="4" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is maybe a silly question, but when you look around on the internet you see recipes mentioning Fuggle hops or Fuggles hops. I suppose there is only one &quot;correct&quot; spelling, so is it Fuggle or Fuggles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6061" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T11:03:30.553" Title="Is it Fuggle or Fuggles?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-02T08:28:07.953" Score="2" ViewCount="2878" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes recipes call for the use of Hallertau hops. Since this is a region, I'm wondering which variaty is called for: Hallertau Hersbrucker or Hallertau Mittlefrüh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I excluded Hallertau Tradition as this is mostly refered to as &quot;Tradition&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6061" LastActivityDate="2017-12-27T13:21:33.647" Title="Hallertau: Is this Hersbrucker or Mittelfrüh?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21953" CreationDate="2017-10-02T10:57:27.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hallertau Hersbrucker is a replacement for the Hallertau Mittelfrüh. It is more disease resistant than the Mittelfrüh. So, from brewing perspective they are probably the same. Growers will of course prefer the Hersbrucker. From the Dutch Wikipedia article it seems that most cultivations of Mittelfrüh have probably disappeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for taste and flavor they should be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T10:57:27.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21952" CreationDate="2017-10-02T11:03:30.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Searching around, you mostly find a reference to Fuggle. It's named after Richard Fuggle. I suppose that people who write Fuggles, really should write Fuggle's as in Fuggle's hops, like Cox's Orange Pippin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw. Fuggles is also called Styrian Goldings (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_hop_varieties#Fuggle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fuggle&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T11:03:30.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21950" CreationDate="2017-10-02T11:45:57.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the fumes will hurt since the carboy will have co2 pressure but I imagine the temperature variance on a garage floor would fluctuate a lot, which can't be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15495" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T11:45:57.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-02T12:51:40.710" Score="2" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am finding it difficult to set aside enough time for a full brew day and have therefore wondered if it is possible for me to split up the process to two separate occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plan is for the two occasions to be with a week's interval.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is as follows;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Day 1&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 min mash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring wort to boiling (?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer hot wort to carboy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Day 2&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring wort to boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 min boil with hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool and ferment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it reasonable to do this without getting a contaminated beer? Will I have to bring the wort to boiling during my first day or can I just dunk it into a clean carboy directly? Should I take anything into account in terms of efficiency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3963" LastEditorDisplayName="user8292" LastEditDate="2018-11-21T12:53:24.817" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T13:09:52.233" Title="Splitting my brew day" Tags="|all-grain|brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21957" CreationDate="2017-10-02T13:53:46.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know some people do what they call an &quot;overnight&quot; mash.  They will heat their strike water to temperature and move it to their mash tun then dough in as usual. Then, instead of waiting only an hour, they get to it several hours away... sometimes the next morning, hence the name and then sparge as usual.  This really shouldn't hurt anything since we want to convert all of the carbohydrates to sugar. Admittedly, this should be done with a cooler type (or at least thermally stable) mash tun so that the heat stays in.  I would fill my mash tun with 155 degree water and take a reading 8 hours later to see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T13:53:46.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21950" CreationDate="2017-10-02T13:59:53.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew and ferment in the garage, and I have no problems with exhaust or any issues with vehicles going in and out. I have done this for the past few years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the only thing i worry about is the temperature in the garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T13:59:53.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5245" CreationDate="2017-10-02T14:48:26.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether it is worthwhile is another question. However, if you use water containing pathogenic bacteria, your beer can be poisonous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15353" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T14:48:26.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1270" CreationDate="2017-10-02T15:01:25.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a large mash tun, or make one out of a half barrel keg you can do a no sparge brew which can shave an hour off the process. There are other benefits as well. You do lose a bit of efficiency though, so just add an extra pound of grain or so to the bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15495" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T15:01:25.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21937" CreationDate="2017-10-02T18:17:19.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To improve it, start measuring how much of each ingredient you use for it and take readings for S.G. and F.G. if possible , start using brewers yeast Vs bakers yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;starting logging your brews and what you did. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be consistent with your process and change one thing at a time (add more sugar or change up the flavoring). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T18:17:19.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1451" CreationDate="2017-10-02T22:21:26.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my earlier attempts was to use a manual pasta maker in place of a crusher. First, I took out rollers and roughed and knurled them as much as possible using a couple files. Then I screwed it onto a board, removed the handle and attached an electric drill. Overall, it worked, and I went through a couple bags of grain with it (50kg total), but then it fell apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T22:21:26.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21944" CreationDate="2017-10-03T02:03:47.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen twice a day in books as well, since it does take a few hours for a cap to form.  There is not limit to the number of times, but the more often you do it the more tannins and flavour it will extract (or it will happen faster at least).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have seen a different technique to achieve the same purpose, which consists in using a pump, to pump the liquid from the bottom over the cap.  Recirculating the liquid over the cap does a similar job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point, you need to decide if doing extra work is worthwhile, I believe 2-3 times a day for a few days is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T02:03:47.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-03T05:10:38.917" Score="3" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that an advantage with tri-clamp connections are sanitary. I get the impression that they say that camlock and QD are not sanitary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it that makes tri-clamp sanitary and camlock isn't? What is the problem with using camlock on? Especially on the cold side? Wouldn't treating it with starsan be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14579" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T12:52:41.503" Title="Why is tri-clamp considered sanitary and other connectors not?" Tags="|sanitation|tubing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21957" CreationDate="2017-10-03T14:10:17.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much what you have suggested, I would this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Day 1 (2h40) :&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat water  (30 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 minutes mash (60 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Batch sparge (30 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store carboy in fridge (20 min)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning (20 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Day 2 (2h40):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring water to boil (30 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil with hops addition (80 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool with wort chiller (20 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment (10 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning (20 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wort is stored in a fridge, I would not boil it the first day.  There is little chance of contamination if stored at fridge temperature (about 4°C).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-11-21T13:09:52.233" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T13:09:52.233" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-03T17:17:15.980" Score="6" ViewCount="4687" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a batch of cider that was in fermentation for several months. I use glass demijohns and racked 3 times so the cider is very clear. It's been about 2 months since the last racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took the demijohn out for bottling I found some white film on the top. It was not there in the previous racking. I use a siphon so I wasn't too concerned of getting it into the bottles, and the cider actually tasted great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After three days in bottles (with sugar added for carbonation) I see white film on the top of each of the bottles, and it seems more than what I had in the demijohn, and developed fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm usually very careful about sanitizing but can't rule out some contamination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read a few posts about film on top of beer but I don't know if things are different with cider... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of giving the bottle a jolt before opening it and letting the foam drive the film out. But will it be safe to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how it looks... a closeup of the top of a standard 11-oz bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jbBfa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jbBfa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;White foam on top of cider&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: six days later, whatever it is does not grow any more. It seems to have captured some gas at the top at start and now it looks like film-covered bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FAQX8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup from above, 9 days after bottling&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J2bNP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side view, 9 days after bottling&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13839" LastEditorUserId="13839" LastEditDate="2017-10-09T15:43:09.420" LastActivityDate="2020-08-27T03:24:45.563" Title="White film on top of cider" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21969" CreationDate="2017-10-03T19:02:05.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a very clean pellicle, biofilm from a bacteria. Taste the cider, you may have something nice there. But it's probably not what you were expecting from yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T19:02:05.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21967" CreationDate="2017-10-03T19:09:00.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the design that makes them different. Tri-clamp / tri-clover are the simplest design, and have been a lab and medical clamp for very long time. While they take a little skill to flip on, they are by far the best style of fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cam locks are not a sanitary fitting by spec, mainly because of the moving hinge area that can come in contact with the &quot;clean&quot; surface of the receiver when attaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T19:09:00.873" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-03T22:16:35.893" Score="3" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using 60kg undermodified 6 row barley for 300 litres, I performed 60 minutes rest at 64°C and 30 minutes rest at 72°C, but I got 12°Plato original gravity (1.048) after boiling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me to get a higher gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15499" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-10-04T20:44:25.433" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T13:10:35.963" Title="How to get higher gravity" Tags="|beer|original-gravity|mashing|efficiency|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21973" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-03T23:13:45.450" Score="3" ViewCount="1507" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most instructions I've found involving force carbonating a home brew assume the use of a Corney keg. In these instructions, I always see it suggested that one should attach the gas line to the beverage port so that the gas is introduced directly into the liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't been able to find consistent instructions for force carbonating a Sanke or Sixth Barrell keg. It seems like there are a number of people who suggest a similar procedure as the Corney keg where the gas is attached to the top portion of the Sanke coupler to force the gas down the spear, but not everyone seems to do so. There are others that suggest hooking up the gas like normal. If one were to reverse the lines, would they need to remove the check ball from the coupler? It's also unclear to me how one would purge the keg to remove oxygen. The only info I could find was to fill the tank with CO2 before racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15255" LastActivityDate="2018-03-03T19:02:21.693" Title="What is the procedure to force carbonate in a Sanke keg?" Tags="|force-carbonation|sanke-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21942" CreationDate="2017-10-04T08:00:56.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xcsxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xcsxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd go with epoxy as well, the sky is the limit.  I wouldn't include a toilet in my brew room if I had a choice tho.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15482" LastActivityDate="2017-10-04T08:00:56.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="324" CreationDate="2017-10-04T09:20:38.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Professional beer bartender here.  Clear the first inch or two of beer that sits in the uninsulated part of the faucet and then shove the glass under the faucet at an angle.  You waste about half an ounce beer in the form of foam and the actual beer at proper temp comes out sans foam resulting in the normal half inch of head at top-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experiment with this...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result.  .05 oz. waste or 3 to 4 oz. waste.  Your choice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The time to do this is equivalent to the time required to quickly touch your index finger and middle finger as fast as you can.  You have removed the warm foamy head of the faucet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My boss still doesn't understand this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5% loss compared to 13 to 20% loss depending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15501" LastActivityDate="2017-10-04T09:20:38.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21973" CreationDate="2017-10-04T16:32:01.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the sanke valve you can attach the gas to the gas line for top down slow force carb which helps fining. Or to the liquid line for co2 injection for bottom up. Or both lines, but this will basically just be a top down carb anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-10-04T16:32:01.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21972" CreationDate="2017-10-05T02:55:19.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Undermodified 6-row barley by itself doesn't have enough enzymes to give you complete conversion of starches to sugars, so you end up with low gravity. Add some highly modified malt (i.e. one with high diastatic power) to help out the 6-row. Here is an article that may help: &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/3604-brewing-by-ratio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/3604-brewing-by-ratio&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14959" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T02:55:19.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21979" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-05T11:24:54.080" Score="4" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to decontaminate my wine after some (not too clean) objects fell into it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was straining my blackberry/elderberry wine through a straining bag. The brew is about a week old at this stage, and I've added only about a third of the required sugar (the rest to be added today after this step).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the bag held over the bucket overnight, held to a pair of chairs by some clothes-pegs that I had taken off the clothes line and allowed to drip into the bucket below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately this morning, while I was removing the straining bag, 4 of the pegs popped off the chairs and fell into the bucket! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These pegs were not only not sterilised but a bit old, dusty and the springs on them a bit rusty - they have been outside for a couple of years, spending some time on the ground, etc. Although I then fished them out with a scalded (though that seemed pointless by now!) spatula, it took me about 1-2 minutes to do this and I feel I have ruined the batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my batch ruined now? Is there anything that can be done to save it? (I don't want to boil it now as I'm afraid it would kill the yeast and boil away the alcohol, not to mention just ruin the taste anyway). Or am I over-reacting and it might be OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15502" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-10-05T12:30:12.903" LastActivityDate="2017-10-21T13:38:39.303" Title="Is it possible to decontaminate wine?" Tags="|wine|contamination|spoilage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21972" CreationDate="2017-10-05T12:54:03.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With all additional information posted in the comments, I will try to answer the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, 12°Plato is equal to a SG of 1.048.  However, the gravity was taken at 30°C, so using &lt;a href=&quot;http://winemakersacademy.com/specific-gravity-temperature-correction-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; calculator we end up with a corrected SG of 1.033.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When mashing using 6 row malt, a 30 minutes protein rest shoud be done between 48°C and 54°C, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/how-the-mash-works/the-protein-rest-and-modification&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to brew&lt;/a&gt; for more information.  300L is a lot, make sure to mix it all well to even the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can raise temperature to about 65°C for 60 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature close to 76°C is only for a mash out (stopping the enzyme activity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing to watch is the water pH if your source of water is hard, but the mash temperature is most probably your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentionned by GigaFemto, I just realised it is barley and not malt, so yes please add some 2-row/6-row malt to increase the diastatic power in the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-10-05T13:10:35.963" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T13:10:35.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21982" CreationDate="2017-10-05T16:29:23.320" Score="3" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;h1&gt;The simple/short version of the question:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does a hydrometer gravity reading of 1.036 really mean?  Does it mean the density of the liquid is 3.6% greater than that of distilled water (ignoring inaccuracies and errors in measurement)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The context/long version of the question:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When creating a yeast starter, it is commonly advised to create a light wort in the range of 1.030 to 1.040 gravity by using 100g of dry malt extract (DME) per liter of water in the starter, or a 10-to-1 ratio of water to DME by weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gravity_(alcoholic_beverage)#Specific_gravity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, gravity is &quot;the ratio of the density of a sample to the density of water&quot;, or equivalently, the ratio of the mass of a given volume of a sample to the mass of an equal volume of pure water.  By my math, 1L of water is ~1000g (with variation depending on temperature), and dissolving 100g of DME into that should result in a gravity of (1000g + 100g)/1000g = 1.100.  This is very, very far off from the 1.030-1.040 range expected by common wisdom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking this common wisdom was perhaps just a commonly-repeated mistake, I checked the suggestions of 4 online yeast starter calculators, to see how much DME they each suggest should be added to 1 liter of water to achieve 1.036 gravity (apologies for the non-links, apparently I need more reputation to post more than 2):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;102.7g according to www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;103g according to www.captainbrew.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;98.18g according to www.yeastcalculator.com/yeastcalc.html&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;98g according to www.brewunited.com/yeast_calculator.php&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from rounding differences, there are 2 different values given here, within ~5% of each other, and essentially agreeing with commonly-repeated advice.  In contrast, my straightforward calculation would suggest the value is 36g of DME per liter, barely more than a third of the values from the calculators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I checked experimentally (and very roughly) while creating a big starter.  Using a kitchen scale, I took 3.1L of hot tap water (the extra 0.1L is to compensate a bit for boil-off), and added 300g of DME.  I brought it to a rolling boil and held it there for ~5 minutes to sanitize, then used a larger pot to make an ice water bath, and cooled the starter wort to ~68F according to my floating thermometer.  I checked the gravity with my hydrometer, and it read ~1.040.  There's plenty of room for little errors here, but the fact is, I got results pretty much in line with the common advice and the online calculators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don't understand how this can be.  It seems like I should have seen a gravity reading close to 1.100.  But when common wisdom, 4 online calculators using (apparently) at least 2 different equations, and my own experimental results all disagree with my abstract logic, I have to assume my abstract logic is incorrect.  What's wrong with my calculation?  How does adding 100g of DME to 1L of water result in a gravity of ~1.036 instead of ~1.100?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15503" LastEditorUserId="15503" LastEditDate="2017-10-05T18:17:06.043" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T18:17:29.007" Title="What does a gravity reading really mean?" Tags="|yeast-starters|specific-gravity|calculations|hydrometer|dme|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21981" CreationDate="2017-10-05T18:17:29.007" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specific gravity measures density, which is mass/volume. If you measured the total mass of your system (3000g + 300g) you would have gotten 3300 grams, but the volume is not 3000 ml because you added the DME and it increases the volume of the solution. If the volume increased by 174 ml you would get 3300/3174 = 1.040 for the density.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, the answer to your initial question is yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14959" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T18:17:29.007" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21979" CreationDate="2017-10-05T19:30:47.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be ok, but most likely not. Check by smell and sight, if it looks OK nd smells OK, taste a little, it may be fine, but it would take a week for you to find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would boil it and add back some new yeast. If you keep a lid on you will not lose much alcohol and yes you will affect the flavour boiling it but it will not be that drastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or ditch it and just start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T19:30:47.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21979" CreationDate="2017-10-06T03:46:23.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No don't boil it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are you are fine at this point. Bacteria just don't hang around lonely old clothespins much. Without knowing what type yeast you pitched, I can't give a solid answer, but if you re-pitch using a strong yeast strain like EC1118, it will surely kill any new bacteria that may have been introduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a week old about 70-80% of the alcohol will have been produced already and alcohol itself is a great sanitizer. Check for off smells and weird floaties for a bit and I think you'll find you're okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something should be said for your brewing practices though... LOL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T16:16:42.680" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T16:16:42.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21941" CreationDate="2017-10-06T04:21:06.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jiuqu in a modern context refers explicitly to types of microbes and their enzymes (Qu) domesticated for usage in the manufacture of products containing alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grains or flours are imbibed with water (e.g. steaming rice or mixing flour with water to form a dough) and subsequently incubated in a warm, humid environment during a favorable time of year, typically spring or autumn. No inoculates were used, but often herbs were added to some preparations because they were noted to create beneficial qualities. In order to keep the grains or dough's relatively moist and warm they are kept in closed straw-roofed huts and typically housed in straw baskets, stacked on wooden shelves or simply placed upon the floor. The presses and molds used to shape the dough's were/are also made of wood. All of these elements unknowingly provided access to the microbes. The cakes are deemed ready when a colored coating is formed on the outside. They are then dried and stored until use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also achieve higher alcohol levels by staggering the addition of sugars to get the bread yeast to go beyond the normal alcohol tolerance levels. Wash and reuse your yeast(lees) to pitch every batch and after a few batches your yeast alcohol levels will increase. Wash yeast by adding water to lees... shake vigorously and rack like a normal wine, keeping the yeast that collects at the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Staggering the sugars means to add the sugars every couple days in smaller amounts. This will reward the yeast that can stand the higher alcohol levels and then in turn reproduce yeast buds that can survive the high levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T04:21:06.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21986" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-06T07:05:28.673" Score="2" ViewCount="2296" Body="&lt;p&gt;setting up a keezer, wonder what temperature should I set up and how many degrees delay?In your guys experience what is the sweet spot to keep beer cold and keep the freezer healthy?I was thinking 2 degrees Celsius 1 .5 degree delay is it okay ?&#xA;Thank you for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15270" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T15:20:11.220" Title="Keezer temperatures" Tags="|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21986" CreationDate="2017-10-06T14:07:28.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that 36-38°F is enjoyable for most beer styles and avoids freezing the beer from cold spots.&#xA;Having your thermal sensor submerged in a 12oz bottle of distilled water helps maintain a consistent temp.&#xA;I've found the corner sections of freezers can freeze your beer with some top slush if the keg is in contact with the sides at 34°F. The corners are &quot;cold spots&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T14:07:28.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21986" CreationDate="2017-10-06T15:20:11.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with everything said by Evil Z. Just one thing I thought worth mentioning: Consider (if you haven't already) adding a fan to the inside of your keezer. The temp can vary by 10 or more degrees from top to bottom. Great starting point here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewacademy.com/keezer-updates/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://homebrewacademy.com/keezer-updates/&lt;/a&gt; for more info and what I mean. Also air movement inside can help with the 'cold spots'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13721" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T15:20:11.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21979" CreationDate="2017-10-06T18:57:15.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think I would boil the wine, I am afraid it would affect the taste negatively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any solids (like dust) will either fall to the bottom or float on the surface.  In either case, you should be able to get rid of it after racking your wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any bacteria introduced could spoil the wine, but chances are small in my opinion. In any case, infection will progress over the first few next days (it will not spoil the wine in a few minutes), so I would suggest to monitor the wine (smell and taste if for a few days in a row.  If the taste doesn't evolve into something bad, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to sanitize anything that will come in contact with the wine and if you are concerned that too much oxygen will be introduced, you may add some campden (SO2) to protect the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T18:57:15.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21992" CreationDate="2017-10-07T18:07:22.090" Score="5" ViewCount="1081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard of people fermenting in corny kegs before. I've also heard of people fermenting under pressure. Finally, I've heard of people fermenting in corny kegs under pressure, using a spunding valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would happen if I just...transferred the beer, oxygenated, and sealed the keg? A corny keg can almost certainly handle the increased pressure. (I carbonate at 30 psi...). Would the pressure be too high? Would the pressure harm the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I felt almost certain I'd find the answer here already, but I don't see anyone who's already asked it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1537" LastActivityDate="2017-10-08T18:31:39.893" Title="Fermenting in Sealed Keg" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-08T15:26:44.490" Score="2" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d9pfU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I filter this cider with a Harris vinbrite filter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15512" LastActivityDate="2018-03-16T16:15:24.813" Title="Can I use a Harris vinbrite to filter cider" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21990" CreationDate="2017-10-08T18:31:39.893" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effects of pressure on fermentation have been &lt;a href=&quot;http://scottjanish.com/fermenting-dry-hopping-pressure/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pretty&lt;/a&gt; well &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/04/27/under-pressure-the-impact-of-higher-psi-fermentations-exbeeriment-results-2/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;studied&lt;/a&gt;. As stated in your question, these studies all seem to use a spunding valve that releases CO2 when the pressure goes above a certain point, ~30 psi or less. In this answer I will run some numbers to see what might happen if that pressure is not released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://lifefermented.wordpress.com/2014/01/22/how-much-co2-is-produced-from-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt; did calculations for how much CO2 a batch of beer will produce. The page explains their methods in detail. More CO2 is produced in beer that attenuates more, and in higher SG beers. A 5 gallon batch of a middle of the road beer might have an SG of 1.050 and 75% attenuation. It will produce roughly 1.6 lb of CO2, 13 cubic feet or &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=1.6%20lb%20of%20CO2%20to%20mol&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;16 moles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical corny keg has slightly more than 5 gallons of space. This answer suggests 5.25 gallons, but doesn't back it up with anything. For the sake of argument, lets assume a quarter gallon of head space, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=0.25%20gallon%20to%20cubic%20inches&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;9.46e-4 m^3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Note that the total volume of unpressurized CO2 produced by our example batch, 13 cubic feet, is roughly 100 times larger than this space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas#Classical_thermodynamic_ideal_gas&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ideal gas equation&lt;/a&gt; is P = n&lt;em&gt;R&lt;/em&gt;T/V, pressure equals the number of moles of gas times the universal gas constant times the absolute temperature divided by the volume. Squeezing that much CO2 into that little space requires roughly 6000 psi of pressure. This is a completely unreasonable amount of pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jDwAIc0qkm3PUo8CW2OLZNUVs-znieMEyQ0USRQNs7g/edit?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;google sheet&lt;/a&gt; that you can copy and edit if you want to play with numbers, however only the very low end gives you anything that even resembles 30 psi. A 1 gallon batch of beer would leave you 4.25 gallons of headspace. If you reduced the SG to 1.030, you would wind up with roughly a tenth of the CO2 of the example batch. This comes out to a pressure of 36 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't actually believe that you will wind up with 6000 psi under any circumstances. One of the following things will happen instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your keg explodes (or pops a leak). My keg has a warning on the lid not to exceed 130 psi. I would guess that there is some safety factor built in; maybe the keg won't break until it gets to twice that. The keg will not last to 1000 psi, much less 6000. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The yeast gives up. The pressure gets too high for them, and your fermentation stalls out before completing. Neither option is a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14166" LastActivityDate="2017-10-08T18:31:39.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-09T11:23:40.130" Score="3" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ask this question because while cooking rhubarb, I thought waste not, want not, and decided to chuck the left over liquid into a container and add a bit of yeast to see what I ended up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to get a quite nice, and really light wine, but due to a shortage of bottles had to fill up a large jar with a tap on it.  I figured I had better quickly drink the jar to ensure it didn't spend too long exposed to any air the jar took in.  The result was that I discovered that rhubarb wine can definitely act medicinally if the ailment involves not being able to make as much use of the bathroom as you would really like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I have looked into the medicinal benefits of elderberry wine as I have quite a lot of that around here.  I read that amongst other things it can help loosen up congestion and help a person breathe better.  After a couple of glasses, and armed with this knowledge I can definitely state that this appears to be the case.  The air seems much more fluid at the moment.  Quite nice considering my house can get a bit stuffy at times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if other people had tried using different ingredients to obtain medicinal effects, and which type of ingredients have which kind of effects.  I think I could justify this part of my life a lot better if I can tell people I am just advancing the field of medicine. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15516" LastActivityDate="2017-10-10T15:57:00.343" Title="Has anyone used any particular ingredients to create medicinal brews?" Tags="|ingredients|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2017-10-10T15:56:37.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had one batch split between two carboys.  One that sat on the yeast cake for only 4 weeks and the other that sat on it for 6 or 7 weeks.  There was a significant difference in flavor between the two and the half that was on the yeast cake for the longer period had a strong contribution of yeast flavors and was of inferior quality to the portion that had less exposure to the yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed this exact phenomenon on two different batches in this exact fashion.  I will never repeat this mistake again. I will be using a secondary for anything longer than 3 weeks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15520" LastActivityDate="2017-10-10T15:56:37.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21993" CreationDate="2017-10-10T15:57:00.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used ginger before, it has been known to have medicinal properties.  If I'm not mistaken I think juniper berries, quinine (tonic water base) and other traditional additives to gruits are probably good things to try (woodrow, flowers, etc.) And if u live in a place where it is legal - cannabis is a good addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it gives some ideas to try! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7944" LastActivityDate="2017-10-10T15:57:00.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-11T06:50:48.013" Score="1" ViewCount="3893" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few questions. I'm making mead for the first time. My mead is now brewing for 2 months (since 11th august), but I'm not sure if it's time to bottle it. That's because it is still sparking. I know that it is the consequence of the brewing, but since the sparkle is not that strong as it was at the beginning, in fact it is very weak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Can I bottle it or I have to wait until the mead is completely still? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- Also, when I shake it, bubbles of CO2 are still coming up from the airlock. What should I do?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- And what kind of caps should I use (sugar cap, plastic, metal crown stoppers, ...)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also see from the pic the mead is still turbid, I guess.&#xA;Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.: I've used brewer's yeast.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rjUEB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15522" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-10-11T15:24:18.400" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T12:28:02.070" Title="Mead: is it time to bottling?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|first-time-brewer|mead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-12T09:42:38.197" Score="6" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am from Kathmandu, Nepal and I was wondering if I could use local yeast to brew beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast I want to use is generally used to make local rice beer called chhaang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15525" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-10-12T17:32:55.130" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T19:34:44.940" Title="Can I use local yeast to brew beer?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21997" CreationDate="2017-10-12T12:15:58.290" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually you are gonna ferment your wort with wild yeast, which is used locally to make some chang or something else. I suggest you to not use this type because it'll form a lot of off flavors, off aromas in your beer due to aldehydes, diaceteldehydes etc.). And the most important thing is the alcohol, because it must produce higher alcohol n methanol which is not good for health atall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15499" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T12:15:58.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21997" CreationDate="2017-10-12T16:35:16.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use any yeast and it will make &quot;beer&quot;. Whether this beer is tasty is a whole different issue. If it's your only option, try it! I'll be curious to see how it turns out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should definitely consider making a starter, especially if the source of the yeast is questionable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastEditorUserId="8127" LastEditDate="2017-10-17T18:11:45.663" LastActivityDate="2017-10-17T18:11:45.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22002" CreationDate="2017-10-15T20:49:10.247" Score="3" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought a bag of malt yesterday at the local homebrew store, and when I opened it today I noticed dark gray to blackish insects in there. I had some unmalted wheat in there with the malts. The store milled the grains for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if I bought them with the malt or if they got in through a hole while the bag was in my kitchen. I'm in Texas, if that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uGjwV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uGjwV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Insects in the malt bag&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2023-08-25T04:03:59.760" Title="What are these insects in my malt?" Tags="|contamination|malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-16T00:40:20.877" Score="3" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the inception phase of a Harry Potter inspired butterbeer recipe. Since it's not well explained in the books, I'm going for a a flavor profile in the range of spiced eggnog and root beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a big, creamy head and (if possible) a color like hefeweizen. Spices will be nutmeg, cloves, ginger, cinnamon, and sassafras (also considering vanilla bean?). For malt I'm going for 40L caramel malt for steeping, and 50/50 Maillard Gold and Wheat extracts and some lactose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have have advice on amounts of the spices and lactose to use for a 1 gallon recipe and how to add a butterscotch flavor? I've heard some people talking about butterscotch extract/schnapps. I definitely want that thick head so nothing that will kill it. Finally hops or no? I don't want it to be unbalanced but I feel like hops is the wrong flavor profile. Some other bittering agent instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14947" LastEditorUserId="14947" LastEditDate="2017-10-16T22:30:41.983" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T12:40:06.763" Title="Advice for a Harry Potter butterbeer" Tags="|extract|experiments|alternatives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22000" CreationDate="2017-10-16T09:22:33.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're possibly weevils. The one in the middle looks like it has a long 'snout' that weevils tend to have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15530" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T09:22:33.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22001" CreationDate="2017-10-16T20:46:16.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're describing is a Cream Ale.  The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style06.php#1a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BJCP&lt;/a&gt; describes the the flavor as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Low to medium-low hop bitterness. Low to moderate maltiness and&#xA;  sweetness, varying with gravity and attenuation. Usually well&#xA;  attenuated. Neither malt nor hops prevail in the taste. A low to&#xA;  moderate corny flavor from corn adjuncts is commonly found, as is some&#xA;  DMS. Finish can vary from somewhat dry to faintly sweet from the corn,&#xA;  malt, and sugar. Faint fruity esters are optional. No diacetyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add the spices (freshly ground/grated/crushed) in the last couple of minutes of the boil to make sure that you aren't introducing extraneous yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T20:46:16.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21947" CreationDate="2017-10-16T22:10:56.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;chthon is correct about the fact that pasteurized peach juice will not ferment, with one REALLY big caveat: It won't ferment &lt;em&gt;until you open it&lt;/em&gt;. The moment you open the vessel you've exposed it to the yeast in the air and from that moment on it's possible for it to spontaneously ferment. I have fermented peach and strawberry juice in exactly this way before, and both turned out quite good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, you have to give it a little encouragement; leave the lid open with a cloth over it, aerate it a bit, that sort of thing. The only problem I foresee with your peach wine is that you've fermented at (I'm guessing?) room temperature. Fermenting warm with something as sugary as peach juice will likely get you some rocket-fuel tasting off flavors. Luckily these will mellow out a bit if you let it age a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14947" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T22:10:56.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21991" CreationDate="2017-10-17T14:34:05.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, Yes you can, I have not used the Vinbrite filters. but its made for wine and spirits.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2017-10-17T14:34:05.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22001" CreationDate="2017-10-17T14:48:01.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The butterscotch is a typical fault in many beers and is produced by diacetyl an ester produced by yeast in growth phase. Diacetcyl is cleaned up at the end of fermentation by raising temp to 68°. &#xA;If you want this flavor, I'd recommend using us-05 or California ale yeast at 62-65°F for entire fermentation. Or any lager yeast and never do the diacetyl rest phase. Lower than normal pitch amounts Will also give high levels of diacetyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the base beer a wheat base should give you a good starting point. Some yeasts can produce the flavors you want but you may be better just adding the desired spices late boil, and using a clean ester yeast.&#xA;As far as hops, I would shoot for about a 20 ibu just to balance, as a bitter addition in 60min boil not much of the hop flavor will remain. Maybe concider a hop extract just for bittering as they will impart even less flavor from the hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-10-24T12:40:06.763" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T12:40:06.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21997" CreationDate="2017-10-19T19:34:44.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Baker's yeast and brewers yeast (and wine yeast) are all &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_cerevisiae&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saccharomyces cerevisiae&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; and can all be used interchangeably. I have made bread with wine yeast and beer with wine yeast and wine with bread yeast. They will all work to ferment whatever you are trying to do. There shouldn't be any off flavors if you keep everything clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read up on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chhaang&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chhaang&lt;/a&gt; and it appears they just use regular yeast to make it so whatever they are using to make that, I would use that first if it's easy to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T19:34:44.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17531" CreationDate="2017-10-19T21:40:19.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK all. My first cider try. I used a Brewers Best apple cider kit. After fermentation was done (about 10 days), I opened it to be knocked over by sulphur smell, aka rhino farts. However, it tasted ok and gravity was right on at 1.004. This has not gone to bottle yet. I saw some suggestions about adding copper, so I cut a piece of standard plumbing copper pipe I had laying around, 1/2 inch I think, long enough to be over the top of the liquid, but still be able to close my fermenter. I used sandpaper to brighten the outside, ran a small piece through the inside, then quick wash and sanitize. I stirred the cider lightly with it and left in there and sealed it back up. Checked after a day and it was significantly better. Another light stir and closed it. Next day, the smell was completely gone! It cost $0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15546" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T21:40:19.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21979" CreationDate="2017-10-21T13:38:39.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, your wine is going to be fine. Fruit wine and especially grape wine, have several ways to fight infection that beer doesn't. First the acid levels in wine are much higher and that is a natural barrier for the nasty stuff to get going. Second, after a couple of days of fermentation, the alcohol levels are getting higher than beer and is also a natural protection against unwanted bacteria invading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once fermentation is done, you'll need to add sulfites to preserve the wine and make sure it doesn't turn to vinegar and that also helps keep the bugs out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never boil wine. The pectic enzymes in the fruit will turn it cloudy and also ruin the fruitiness of the wine by driving off aroma esters. You'll end up with a cloudy, and maybe syrupy mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-10-21T13:38:39.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-22T17:19:51.277" Score="3" ViewCount="893" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few months ago I bottled using Wilko's Bruclens steriliser:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wilko.com/homebrew-accessories+equipment/wilko-cleaner-and-steriliser-100g/invt/0022658&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wilko.com/homebrew-accessories+equipment/wilko-cleaner-and-steriliser-100g/invt/0022658&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After sterilising I gave the bottles a few rinses with cold water. After bottling I noticed this white film on a number of the bottles:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oi27E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oi27E.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&#xA;1. Does this mean there is some steriliser left behind in the bottles?&#xA;2. What are the consequences if you consume some left-behind steriliser of this type with your beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I can't rule out that the film was caused by an oxi clean product from when I was cleaning the bottles, so it would be nice to know of any risks with that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15553" LastActivityDate="2017-10-28T12:57:24.380" Title="Apparent steriliser residue left on bottles; is this safe?" Tags="|sanitation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22015" CreationDate="2017-10-23T11:39:00.453" Score="8" ViewCount="2205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a brew on Saturday and cooled, got in the fermenting bucket and added yeast, added starsan to the chamber in the double bubble airlock and got it under the stairs. Ever since then, the starsan gets sucked into the fermenter, fairly quickly as well (after I replace it). I've heard this is due to temperature change creating a vacuum. I've also heard that that shouldn't happen with this type of airlock. Its not happened before to this extent (i.e. I've never had to replace the starsan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas why this is happening? And is there a way I can prevent it? I'm not too concerned right now as the yeast is still working and producing carbon dioxide but when it finishes I still plan to leave it (three weeks in total) so I don't want the possibility of oxygen getting in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15531" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-08T07:39:24.413" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T07:39:24.413" Title="Starsan in double bubble airlock keeps getting sucked into fermenter - why and how to prevent?" Tags="|fermentation|beer|yeast|techniques|airlock|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-23T12:16:11.257" Score="0" ViewCount="1840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my latests batch of IPA (from a Wilko kit) off 19 days ago.  Unlike my previous attempts, fermentation began rapidly and consistent.  It has slowed down over the past couple of days so today I took the SG. The instructions says that &quot;Fermentation will be complete when bubbles cease to rise (if you use a hydrometer, when the Specific Gravity (SG) remains constant below 1008)&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On both this and my previous batches, the SG has hardly changed at all.  My hydrometer has volume scale and it has barely moved off 0%! Any suggestions as to what I have done wrong or should do at the bottling stage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15244" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T16:36:21.823" Title="Specific Gravity too low" Tags="|beer|specific-gravity|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22013" CreationDate="2017-10-23T14:23:54.010" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is caused by a drop in temp before co2 is being produced. Just cap the fermenter in sanitized foil until you're past the lag phase, or cooled to fermentaion temp. Though a little bit of starsan won't hurt much, foil is better than an open airlock IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't put air locks on until the wort is at fermentaion temp. I also remove the airlock then foil cap when cold crashing to prevent the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-10-24T12:23:33.377" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T12:23:33.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22019" CreationDate="2017-10-23T14:25:44.363" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stupid question...but I am making an 11% stout with bourbon oak added.  I have never kegged anything higher than a 7% so not sure what to expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the higher abv allow it to last longer in the keg to drink all Winter?  Should I add more bourbon so the taste doesn't dissipate?  Anything else I should think about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastEditorUserId="7921" LastEditDate="2017-10-23T14:47:33.723" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T16:46:08.827" Title="Kegging an 11% stout" Tags="|kegging|flavor|stout|oak|bourbon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22012" CreationDate="2017-10-23T14:28:49.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like oxidized matter. Definitely not &quot;clean&quot;. Rewash them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wash bottles with hot water and normal dish soap to get clean. Then a 3 min soak in No rinse sanitizer like StarSan, then dry inverted just before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T14:28:49.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22014" CreationDate="2017-10-23T16:36:21.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you take a hydrometer reading at the beginning of the process, before fermentation began?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, was the wort heavier in that original specific gravity reading?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, you might just have reached a point where the ratio of alcohol (SG 0.794) to dissolved solids (SG &gt; 1.0) happens to equal 1.000, the specific gravity of water.  That doesn't mean that you've created water.  Rather that you have created a beer which has the same weight to volume as water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you were aiming at 1.008, that is a bit of an over-fermentation.  Did you augment the recipe with any extra ferment-able sugars or maybe so liquor?  If not, did you use a different yeast?  One with a higher alcohol tolerance?  If neither of these deliberate recipe modifications are the culprit, you may want to look closer at your equipment sanitation process.  A more robust yeast might have gotten in to your wort accidentally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T16:36:21.823" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22016" CreationDate="2017-10-23T16:46:08.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kegged beer should last almost as long as bottled beer if sanitation and gas pressures are properly maintained. I don't think you need to do anything different because you are kegging it. The high ABV should allow you to store it in a keg for many months if not years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T16:46:08.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21996" CreationDate="2017-10-24T00:53:20.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1- Two months is a bit soon to bottle. Wait until the mead is still else you will wind up with bottle bombs due to the continued fermentation. The only real way to know for sure is to use your hydrometer from beginning to end. Best practices include adding Potassium Sorbate and Campden tablets to ensure fermentation doesn't continue once in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- Stop shaking your mead! You continue to see CO2 bubbles rise because it isn't done fermenting and my guess is it should probably be de-gassed thoroughly. De-gassing is the process of removing suspended carbon dioxide left over from fermentation.Suspended carbon dioxide prevents wine from properly clearing. Carbon dioxide can be removed from mead through three main methods: agitation, creating a vacuum, and time. &#xA;Agitation is usually done with a type of stirring rod that attaches to a power drill. &#xA;A vacuum can be created by sealing off the top of your carboy and removing the air that is in there.When there’s negative pressure in the carboy the carbon dioxide will come out of suspension (form bubbles) and float to the top of the carboy.&#xA;The easiest way to degas a mead is through time. Given enough time all the carbon dioxide will come out of suspension and leave your mead.&#xA;If you choose this method be sure that you’re not storing your mead on the lees. Rack off of all sediment and let the CO2 escape slowly. Should more sediment accumulate you’ll have to consider racking again to avoid off flavors from the decomposing yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- Caps will depend on the bottles you use. Metal beer style caps seem to work best for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastEditorUserId="13275" LastEditDate="2017-10-25T12:28:02.070" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T12:28:02.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21878" CreationDate="2017-10-24T16:05:59.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need something called a puncture device&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5U7Jt.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5U7Jt.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link has both for threaded and non threaded cartridges. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lelandltd.com/puncture_devices.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leland Limited&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, these devices are not regulated, and can be dangerous if directions are not followed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T16:05:59.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22068" CreationDate="2017-10-24T18:47:40.047" Score="3" ViewCount="5889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my first cider 3 weeks ago and the home brew shop gave me sodium metabisulfite as a sanitizer (1tbsp per liter) and anti-oxidant (1/8tsp per gallon). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last week, I did my first beer (5.3 quarts / 5 liters small batch all-grain). I also used metabisulfite as a sanitizer and it seems to have worked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I have read that metabisulfite is not a strong enough sanitizer for beer, is it true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) When I let the sanitizer drip dry on glass, a white salt mark (metabisulfite) remains on the surface. Does that mean that I should rince with boiled water (annoying) or the amount remaining on the glass negligible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Should I continue using metabisulfite, it seems to be good enough for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12370" LastEditorUserId="12370" LastEditDate="2017-10-25T03:17:24.823" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T12:02:13.190" Title="Beer with Metabisulphite rinse" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|potassium-meta-bisulfite|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-24T20:33:43.173" Score="2" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;Twelve days ago I pitched my yeast in to two batches of ginger wine (different yeasts, different batches). For a few days fermentation was going well and the air lock was producing lots of bubbles and it was all good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just checked on progress to see the water level in the air lock has risen; in the image, the yellow line is (approximately) where it originally was when bubbling away, now the water level is at the purple line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has the fermentation stuck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They've both been in the same area with two other batches which are still fermenting away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LCD stick on thermometer: 22&amp;deg;C (71.6&amp;deg;F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inside the demijohn: at 23&amp;deg;C (73.4&amp;deg;F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OG:&lt;/strong&gt; 1.260&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Current gravity:&lt;/strong&gt; 0.096*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*That is, if I'm reading this correctly as the hydrometer is almost fully submerged and the reading is above the 1.000 line. It seems unlikely as my calculations put that at 158% ABV!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQnGU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQnGU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;air lock water level&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15558" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T22:40:51.117" Title="Air lock sunken water level" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22023" CreationDate="2017-10-24T22:28:57.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;12 days ago is probably long enough that would be slowed to an almost undetectable amount.  Are you sure about that original gravity if you think you might be reading it wrong now?  The final sounds about right (given the margin of reading a hydrometer, I assume it's about 1.000,) but that original sounds impossible.  An og 1.150 with a dry yeast would finish at theoretically finish at 1.000 at almost 20% abv if it were that alcohol tolerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you post pics of the hydrometer floating, we might be able to shed more light.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also which yeasts did you use for each?  Some are much more aggressive than others.  I rarely have to wait a over a week for complete primary fermentation.  Give us the yeast strains and we can get more specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14263" LastEditorUserId="14263" LastEditDate="2017-10-24T22:40:51.117" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T22:40:51.117" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22022" CreationDate="2017-10-24T22:47:28.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me answer your questions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;metabisulfites (potassium and sodium) in strong enough concentrations can be a very effective sanitizer. In stronger doses, potassium metabisulfite works well to sanitize your equipment, with no negative consequences. Make a solution of 8 teaspoons dry measure of potassium metabisulfite added to 1 gallon (4 liters) of warm water. Rinse your equipment in this solution for about 5 minutes, and let drip dry.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You didn't probably dissolve it enough. But, you can rinse it with boiled water to remove it because that white residue is probably enough to kill off your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I would continue to use sulfites to preserve your cider but there are much better sanitizing cleaners than sulfites. I recommend using PBW or StarSan instead.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T22:47:28.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22022" CreationDate="2017-10-24T22:54:18.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's kind of a poor sanitizer in general with that concentration.  It's not that it is bad for beer, it takes 5 minutes to sanitize.  It will work, but you're going to have to be extra patient and careful.  Trying to use the rest will have not paid off if you ruin one batch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy a bottle of star-san and keep the metabisulphite for when you want some non-acidic anti-oxidant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14263" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T22:54:18.903" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22022" CreationDate="2017-10-25T12:28:41.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;1- It is used to sanitize equipment for wine making, it should be strong enough for beer IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- If you leave the residue, it could leave an after taste.  I would rinse it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- I use metabisulfite to sanitize when I make wine and a one step cleaner/sanitizer (Aseptox) when I make beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sulfite residue can have a harsh taste which is ok in wine since it will age longer and serve as an anti-oxidant, but in beer I prefer something that will leave no aftertaste.  People widely use Starsan, but there are other similar products, the one I use come in powder that you mix with water which is a lot cheaper than buying it in liquid form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T12:28:41.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22022" CreationDate="2017-10-25T15:47:53.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Yes, it's true. It's not a sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) This is dry sodium or potassium as a by product after absorbing oxygen. Can give off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) NO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metabisulfites (potassium and sodium) are not sanitizers. They're actually preservatives. They work by depleting solutions of oxygen to prevent aerobic organisim growth.  They don't kill anything on contact as a sanitizer does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an example of how it works, get some Apple juice that has it as a presevative. If you pitch yeast in it, there will be no cell growth but the existing yeast will consume sugars. The preservative can be defeated with oxygenating the juice and then the yeast will have a growth phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-10-27T16:53:22.163" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T16:53:22.163" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22036" CreationDate="2017-10-26T13:30:18.697" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of searching for a new kettle and began looking into induction.  What I have discovered in both the brewing and culinary market is that there is no surprise that induction hasn't really taken off since the proper pots are rarely available. The best I have found are pots with a cladded bottom containing an inner layer of 400 grade stainless (ferritic steel).&#xA;This is probably more efficient than a propane burner but doesn't contribute to a larger surface area which is the whole advantage to induction.  I want a vessel with 400 cladding throughout, but best I can tell, this doesn't exist.  Does anyone know why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12902" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T16:37:33.550" Title="True induction kettle" Tags="|kettle|stainless|induction-heating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22030" CreationDate="2017-10-26T14:59:21.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The magnetic field drops off rapidly with distance from the stove top. You could clad the sides of the kettle, but it wouldn't add any heat and would just be a waste of money. To heat the sides you would need a concave stove surface with a coil that wraps up the sides of the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--GF &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14959" LastActivityDate="2017-10-26T14:59:21.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22012" CreationDate="2017-10-27T04:58:46.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxiclean can leave a white powdery looking film - especially if the water is cold.  I seem to recall hard tap water might contribute as well.  If you scrub with water and a bottle brush you might see lines where the bristles rub it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick wash in an acid like StarSan will take it off pretty easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8399" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T04:58:46.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="976" CreationDate="2017-10-27T13:22:44.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a yeast starter directly in a bottle of beer after I poured it into a glass. I let the bottle with dregs warm to room temperature, then added dry malt extract with water. 10% DME in boiled water cooled to room temperature. Shake it up to oxygenate, then put airlock on. 12 hours later, I pitched into beer and made a lovely hefeweizen. Yeast was from an imported german hefeweizen. 2 weeks later, racked beer into bottles and poured slurry into mason jar and put in fridge. Will brew again in a couple weeks, and use slurry warmed to room temp. should save 3.99 per 5 gallon batch from here on out. Brewdog333&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15567" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T13:22:44.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22030" CreationDate="2017-10-27T16:37:33.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The good pots I've seen have a ferrious plate integrated into the base, with food grade stainless for food contact areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking at 20 liter+ pots which are about $500 us. For commercial pots.&#xA;However the stove top for that large a pot is about $5,000. So I abandoned the search there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T16:37:33.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21953" CreationDate="2017-10-28T12:41:26.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hersbrucker is a milder strain of hallertau and good for hefeweizens and lagers. Mittelfruh is more of an aroma hop and still low on alpha bittering.                 Many newer versions of hallertau now exist, and have higher alpha numbers but are bred more for aroma  and flavor. Check the alpha numbers for what you're brewing to decide what to use. I personally don't like hoppy beers, so I stick with low alpha hops like german hallertau. Mittelfruh does have great flavor and aroma. Brewdog333&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15567" LastActivityDate="2017-10-28T12:41:26.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22012" CreationDate="2017-10-28T12:57:24.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I can't put a teaspoon of it in my mouth, then I don't want it in my beer. I always rinse after using no rinse sanitizer but we have good water here. If you see anything in the bottle, then clean it again or kill it with bleach. Then sanitize and proceed bottling. Brewdog333&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15567" LastActivityDate="2017-10-28T12:57:24.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="45" CreationDate="2017-10-28T14:07:54.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the beautiful thing about home-brew. You cannot make toxic beer. The alcohol kills off organisms toxic to humans. You can make sour beer, nasty beer, off-flavored beer, and face wrecking IPA's, but all are still drinkable. Sanitize everything post boil on brew day and you'll be fine. Brewdog333&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15567" LastActivityDate="2017-10-28T14:07:54.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17902" CreationDate="2017-10-30T19:04:52.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit late to the conversation, but I also recently started brewing my own Ginger Beer using a Ginger Bug and bottling in the Grolsch-Style swing top bottles. I've had very good success with this method, and got curious as to the pressure capabilities of the swing-top style vs. a crimped top, as I would like to continue experimenting with commercial yeasts on some batches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the EZ-Cap bottles and their YouTube Channel shows one of their quality tests at 120psi for a swing top, so that gives me more confidence to continue using those bottles for all of my brewing needs. I know the crimped style is just throwing away a cap, but the swing top bottles don't even have that waste. Those rubber seals will last through numerous bottling sessions before needing to be replaced. Bonus that no special tool is required to close and open them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/1LwjQfQ2zFs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/1LwjQfQ2zFs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15575" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T19:04:52.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22013" CreationDate="2017-11-01T13:59:07.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One sensible suggestion is &lt;em&gt;don't put starsan in the bubble trap&lt;/em&gt; - just put water in there. There is no need to use an antiseptic in the air lock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-01T13:59:07.500" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22013" CreationDate="2017-11-02T13:44:34.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're putting too much liquid in the bubbles of the airlock.  If each side is only &lt;strong&gt;filled about one-third&lt;/strong&gt;, none of the liquid will either be sucked out or blown out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fluid in a properly-filled airlock will not get sucked out.  As you can see in the picture of the properly-filled airlock below, there is not enough fluid to overflow the bubble chambers in either direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOfNr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOfNr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as barking pete has answered, you might as well just fill the airlock with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the comments below Wyrmwood says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The pressure in a fermentation chamber with a good seal after moving from ale temps to a fridge to cold crash is plenty to empty a standard airlock or to suck a half-filled quart jar dry with a blow off tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reply is that sure, it could suck fluid out of a blow-off container through a blow-off tube, but no, it won't suck the fluid out of properly-filled airlock such as the one pictured here.  It will suck air &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; the fluid, but the fluid will be left behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2017-11-15T03:36:31.890" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T03:36:31.890" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2837" CreationDate="2017-11-03T10:20:42.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast produce higher alcohol during fermentation as side product of metabolic pathway from certain amino acid i.e. Leucine, valine, serine etc. The fusel oil produced in fermented wash depends on the number of factors such as yeast strain used, nitrogen content and temperature. Fusel oil gives the pungent taste. It is less vita tile than the ethanol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15589" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T10:20:42.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21944" CreationDate="2017-11-03T19:15:28.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made wine professionally for 15 years so I have punched down a lot of caps. It kind of depends on what style you are going after and what type of grape you are working with. I started off punching down 4 times a day on my red wines and later cut it back to 2 times a day after two well known wine makers told me 4 was too many. It is a lot of strenuous work punching down by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also depends on the size of your fermentation. I was working in 1 ton tanks of grapes. As the volumes increase, it gets harder and harder to do punchdowns. Large wineries do pump overs and/or submerge the whole cap in the fermenting wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grapestompers.com/articles/punch_down_cap.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;summary&lt;/a&gt; of why you want to punch down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;During the early stages of fermentation, the physical act of punching down helps introduce oxygen to your yeast cells, helping them &amp;quot;kick start&amp;quot; fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Punching down helps mix the yeast into the must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It helps keep harmful bacteria or mold from forming that could ruin your wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It ensures color, flavor, tannins and other phenolic compounds are added to your wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Punching down helps dissipate heat that naturally occurs during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Left alone, the cap can reach high temperatures, providing an environment that helps grow harmful bacteria&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T19:15:28.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-04T02:11:42.167" Score="3" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little over a year ago I did my first all-grain.  I adapted it from some recommendations for a good Christmas ale.  I listed the grains below.  It was a huge success except for one problem.  We ran out Christmas morning.  I hit a fairly high gravity, 1.072.  However I had a very low yield.  With successive batches I learned that my problem was in the brew kettle.  I have a very large heel.  I need to boil roughly 7.25 to 7.5 gallons of wort to get 5 gallons.  Roughly a gallon of that is evaporated, the rest is heel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brew kettle is on my short list to be replaced. Until then I've been making due with what I have.  from recent batches I know that with 15# of grain and my typical efficiency, I get an OG somewhere in the neighborhood of 1.052 to 1.056 for five gallons.  I'm going to be brewing another batch this weekend and I would really like to hit an OG in the neighborhood of 1.072.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I expect this ratio to be a linear scale?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much grain should I add to scale this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I add a proportional amount of all the grains or just the base grains? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;13#    2-row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1#     white wheat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1#     crystal 40L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.25#   special roast malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.25#   roasted barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Based on this recipe that gives me an OG of 1.052 - 1.0156, how should I scale up the recipe to achieve an OG of about 1.072 ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12902" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-11-07T18:14:23.960" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T02:48:21.437" Title="Scaling a recipe for bad efficiency" Tags="|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-04T08:20:54.793" Score="2" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I put my imperial stout (expected ABV 9%) in the fermenter on Wednesday (now Saturday). Pitched safale s-04 onto 10.5 litres of wort at around 22 degrees C. So far there doesn’t seem to be much activity. The lid felt pressured but no activity in airlock. It’s sitting at around 20 degrees C. Should I pitch another packet of yeast? Any advice welcome. Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15594" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T18:07:43.407" Title="Imperial stout fermentation" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22047" CreationDate="2017-11-04T09:43:29.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your fermenter a bucket with a lid? Second, you pitched at 22° C, most of your fermentation could already be finished. Take a look in your fermenter to see if there are small islands afloat, and traces of debris sticking at the side of the fermenter above the wort. Also, how does it smell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-11-04T09:43:29.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2017-11-04T09:48:32.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The analogy used with stones in water is a poor one, the reason  being that stones are large and follow stokes law for particle size. They most certainly sink immediately, however, if you crushed up almost any rock or clay to the size of a yeast cell they would be suspended in the liquid and would contribute buoyancy to the hydrometer.  The density change here would actually be quite dramatic. In fact, I look at suspensions of nanosized silica in water and for a 30% by weight suspension the specific gravity is 1.020, silica is a large component of rocks, clays and quartz, at the nanosize it has density of 1.9-2.4 g.cm3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See table 12.1  &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=d0huBwAAQBAJ&amp;amp;pg=PA139&amp;amp;lpg=PA139&amp;amp;dq=density%20colloidal%20silica&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=uXbGUfvea-&amp;amp;sig=CMg-gFk85XnelK9q6A9EtO_VImQ&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiItZfP0KTXAhWMnBoKHbVmD1AQ6AEImgEwEw#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=density%20colloidal%20silica&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Colloidal Silica: Fundamentals and Applications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in our case, our yeast cells are of a density much more similar to water at around 1.080 g.cm3 (at a minimum) . So a 10% by volume yeast suspension in water (perhaps active wort) would certainly increase gravity by a few points - the gravity would be eight points higher!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://book.bionumbers.org/what-is-the-density-of-cells/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://book.bionumbers.org/what-is-the-density-of-cells/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just thought this would be worth pointing out, I thought the original post could be very misleading to others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15591" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-11-04T15:46:17.623" LastActivityDate="2017-11-04T15:46:17.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22046" CreationDate="2017-11-04T12:00:54.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recommendation would be to use a brewing program. Many are free or offer free trials on your mobile device or computer. You can plug in all your numbers to include boil off and trub loss and create equipment profiles. Also based on your recipe and numbers it will list a target gravity. If low based on your recipe to calculation ratio I would just add more base malt or DME to boost the gravity. Plug and play simplicity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastActivityDate="2017-11-04T12:00:54.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22046" CreationDate="2017-11-04T15:55:48.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you scan scale and adjust your recipe to fit your brewhouse efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Programs and apps do this very easily.&#xA;One simple free Android app is BrewR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think you would benifiet more from fixing the efficiency issue though&lt;/strong&gt;. If you feel the poor efficiency is from your kettle and heel/trub. I would suspect that's from hops or other boil adjuncts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;IMO a different kettle won't help much.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a large BIAB net bag in your boil. Keep it off the bottom. This will allow you to remove most of not all of the boil trub and increase yield.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't use a whirlfloc tab or Irish moss. These fluf up and really inflate the trub volume. And are really pointless unless you're actually doing a whirlpool to leave the hot and cold breaks in the kettle. Whirlpool helps compact the trub. Also I've found I can achieve better head and brilliant clairity with just proper post fermentation fining. Also in a dark beer there's little point.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-11-04T16:01:49.117" LastActivityDate="2017-11-04T16:01:49.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22053" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-11-06T15:34:30.453" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-11-06T15:34:30.453" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T15:34:30.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22054" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-11-06T15:34:30.453" Score="0" Body="This is a special tag that is designed to be used only by the system for questions that have had all of their other tags removed. Do not add this tag to existing questions, it is reserved for use by the system to identify posts with no valid tags." OwnerUserId="14367" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2017-12-08T18:28:11.687" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T18:28:11.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22047" CreationDate="2017-11-06T18:07:43.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Airlock activity is not a reliable way to gauge fermentation. Unless you have a perfect seal, you may not see activity during active fermentation. The only reliable measure of fermentation is a gravity reading. The only reliable way to tell if fermentation is complete (or has stalled) is to take gravity readings three days in a row and see if the gravity does not change. If it changes, fermentation is still in process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/airlock-fundamentals/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; regarding airlock activity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T18:07:43.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22064" CreationDate="2017-11-06T23:59:41.667" Score="2" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been all grain brewing for a few years (40+ batches) and decided to try a cider for the family for the holidays. Followed recommendations in BYO mag using pasteurized pear juice and added SafeAle 04. Fermentation was great, clean (.056-  .012) HOWEVER, I definitely have a noticeable cat pee aroma and flavor currently. The recipe calls for cranberry, cinnamon sticks and orange zest additions after primary, which I haven’t added yet. Wondering if there’s an additive that will eliminate this unwanted smell/flavor first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13348" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T01:53:36.587" Title="1st cider attempt, cat pee smell" Tags="|cider|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22056" CreationDate="2017-11-07T00:51:37.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not believer there is any instant additive that will relieve the odour without creating other problems. One might be able to use activated carbon(charcoal) to remove some flavour/odour compounds. It is a viable technique but not always 100% successful. Maybe the use of cinnamon, orange and cranberries is exactly what is required to mask the offending aroma? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brews using apples and pears (and other fruit) can smell quite rank when first fermented. I would recommend bottle conditioning for a long time. IMHO one year is not too short for cider or perry to age correctly. During that time the taste and aroma usually change considerably for the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T00:51:37.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22065" CreationDate="2017-11-07T11:28:59.387" Score="0" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of buying a CO2 bulb and holder to fit a 25 litre keg. I have the right cap to fit one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right in thinking the only purpose is to stop air ingress through the tap (that would cause taints) ? Or will it also contribute to carbonation ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use honey or  brew sugar for priming in the keg.  Beer is fairly fizzy when it comes out but goes still quite quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15602" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T05:20:35.957" Title="Co2 bulbs and holders" Tags="|conditioning|kegs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2837" CreationDate="2017-11-07T14:36:51.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ingested methanol (wood alcohol) is metabolized to formaldehyde which is a pretty nasty toxin to the human body. Too much methanol/formaldehyde can cause blindness because it messes with the retina...among other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethanol on the other hand metabolizes to acetaldehyde and then to acids which the human body can handle relatively well compared to formaldehyde.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that all alcohols are &quot;poisonous&quot; to the human body but some are more &quot;poisonous&quot; then others. Much of a hangover is your body's reaction to these &quot;poisons&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15600" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T14:36:51.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21937" CreationDate="2017-11-07T17:54:31.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I had American friends that lived and worked for Aramco in Saudi on the Aramco housing area. They were not allowed to have alcohol, but everyone made &quot;hooch&quot;. Their recipe was a can of frozen apple juice, a couple of cups of sugar and a gallon of water and some bakers yeast, but people had smuggled in wine yeast which was much better. They put it in a big bottle and put a balloon over the top. The balloon would inflate during fermentation and then deflate when it was done. When it was done they would move it into a new bottle and let it settle for a week or two. The apple juice gave it some flavor they said. I would suspect that the apple juice also provided more nutrients for the yeast. They drank it too fast for it to spoil or oxidize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to improve this &quot;hooch&quot; adding grape juice or apple juice would probably give you something far more interesting than just water and sugar. Add mint if you want. It's all a giant experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T17:54:31.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22046" CreationDate="2017-11-07T20:42:29.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try to fix your efficiency issue first (as suggested by EZ).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding scaling the recipe, yes you can increase all grains to keep the same ratio.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As mentionned &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/488/will-scaling-a-recipe-from-5-gallons-to-1-gallon-introduce-significant-differenc?rq=1&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; the main thing that could be different is the hops utilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** Edit ** &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I entered your recipe in Beersmith to get scaled quantities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15.5 lbs 2-row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.25 lbs white wheat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.25 lbs crystal 40L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.3 lbs special roast malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.3 lbs roasted barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should get you close to your goal of 1.072 given your efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-11-08T02:48:21.437" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T02:48:21.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22056" CreationDate="2017-11-08T01:53:36.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ammonia is generally the smell accociated with cat pee, and can be produced by some fermentations of fruits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is volatile so may be able to be gassed off by force CO2 and degassing. Repeat until it's gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T01:53:36.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22058" CreationDate="2017-11-08T05:20:35.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO the answer is a both. The CO2 from the bulb contributes to carbonation in that it keeps a atmosphere of CO2 over the beer and keeps it under slight pressure. It also a prevents a partial vacuum developing above the beer while its being poured from the keg. Without a CO2 bulb supplying the CO2 to fill the keg, one would have to admit air to allow the beer the flow freely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T05:20:35.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22066" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22758" CreationDate="2017-11-08T05:39:13.037" Score="1" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to create a sour beer from a sour mash from the second runnings of a Double IPA. I kept the mash tun in the garage, but unfortunately it rained and got colder than I thought it would. (I live in Los Angeles, so I wasn't too concerned about the season at the time.) The net morning it smelled horrible -- like butyric acid, so I know it got colder than the recommended temperature. But nonetheless I carried on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I boiled the concoction for an hour and added some Simcoe and Centennial, and later WLP001. (Unfortunately I had to boil it inside the house because of the rain, and the whole house smelled like vomit for a week.) After fermentation was done, it did not taste very good. It still smelled pretty bad, and had a strong cheese taste. I thought all was lost, but then thought to try and add some brett (WLP650) a week later. That was on 2/24/2017.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been tasting it every so often, and I have noticed the smell and cheese taste have dissipated over the months. The main taste is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; acidic/vinegary (pH was at 3.84 in August), but it is kind of rough by itself. Plus that faint cheese taste/smell that lingers. I'm thinking I can blend this with some other beer, but am also wondering if it is worth it. I have about 1.75 gallons worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do blend it, should I do it now or wait a few more months? And what would work best for a blend? Or will this thing taste perfect after sitting for at least a year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grain bill for the DIPA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;13.25#   American 2-row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.3# Crystal 40&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.3# Crystal 60&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.75#    Corn sugar (dextrose)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12524" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T19:01:02.610" Title="Should I keep my batch?" Tags="|sour|taste|brettanomyces|acidic|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22066" CreationDate="2017-11-08T11:10:30.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In reality if the brew is that malodorous and sour to taste then it is probably worth discarding. 1.75 gals is nothing in the greater scheme of things. The alternative is attempting to drink it! :0(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However as this is more of an experiment than a production run - why not keep it and see what happens. If you have a the spare space and the container is spare then it might be interesting to see how it goes. Generally speaking acidity does not disappear it remains or increases. IMHO only the lesser aromas and flavours tend to mute and reduce in intensity. Hop bitterness is one thing that diminishes over the months and some &quot;flavour errors&quot; like diacetyl and other fermentation intermediates can dissipate in the bottle/keg over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I have learnt is that brews change over time and usually for the better (if kept anaerobic). This works with wine, beer and naturally fermented sodas (eg real ginger beer). Why not see what it does to this one? I do emphasise that once its acidic, it rarely (if ever) get less so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T11:10:30.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22022" CreationDate="2017-11-08T12:02:13.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An interesting question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- metabisulphite is usually regarded as an oxygen scavenger and thus a preservative by virtue of inhibiting bacterial (and yeast) &lt;em&gt;growth&lt;/em&gt; (but not so much the metabolism). Metabisulphite in solution can also be a source of SO2 - which reacts in water to make an acid solution. That acidic solution could be regarded as acting something like StarSan (which is a solution of phosphoric acid and a surfactant/detergent). It can sterilise as it has antimicrobial activity. But I would not class it as a &lt;em&gt;strong&lt;/em&gt; sterilising agent. For for most intents and purposes it is a reasonably viable one for treating unsoiled equipment. However I can imagine situations when it might not sterilise completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- a very small residue left on the equipment is no particular cause for concern. After all people add whole tablets to wine ferments. It could be wiped or rinsed off as preferred. One could use boiling water and one could probably use cold tap water if one particularly wanted to remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- you can continue using metabisulphite if it works for you. It has worked for millions of baby feeding bottles over the years and is still used widely when making wine. If the brewing equipment is unsoiled and well scrubbed down then using &quot;campden tablets&quot; is a viable option. As I have said IMHO it is not totally dissimilar to StarSan in action. If the equipment becomes soiled or a biofilm begins to build up then it might well be better using a deep cleaning agent like VWP or similar.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T12:02:13.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22066" CreationDate="2017-11-08T16:48:26.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a sour ale the acid is suppose to balance the malt opposed to hops bittering to balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have an acid base for a blending batch. If you have a PH meter check it. Then blend with a normally fermented beer that has little hop bittering to get to a pH typical of the sour style you're going for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-11-08T18:47:57.597" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T18:47:57.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5837" CreationDate="2017-11-09T17:18:52.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are in a super pinch and don't have any chemicals, boiling water is a great sanitizer/sterilizer. Steam works even better since it's at a higher temperature than boiling in an enclosed environment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal and glass equipment can be put in an oven and baked at 250f and that will kill pretty much anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both methods won't clean much off your equipment but you will have sanitized crud on it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2017-11-10T14:09:22.770" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T14:09:22.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5837" CreationDate="2017-11-09T19:14:04.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/brewing-preperations/sanitation/sanitizing-your-equipment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;John Palmer recommends using bleach&lt;/a&gt;, however, &lt;strong&gt;his instructions on the web site are wrong&lt;/strong&gt;. 1 tablespoon is almost 15ml. It's no wonder he recommends rinsing as at 1 tablespoon per gallon you're adding 75ml which is way over his 4ml per gallon recommendation. Even 1 teaspoon per gallon would be 5 ml per gallon (which is likely what he meant to write). Some also recommend 1 oz for 5 gallons, but that's also too much, about 6ml per gallon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make sanitizer from bleach, you should add &lt;strong&gt;4 teaspoons bleach to 5 gallons of water and 4 teaspoons white vinegar to water (don't mix bleach and vinegar - add both to the water&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thoughtco.com/mixing-bleach-and-vinegar-609281&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;otherwise you can create toxic chlorine gas&lt;/a&gt;). The vinegar will ensure proper pH and makes the mixture the benchmark for sanitizing. Here's the &lt;a href=&quot;https://secure-hwcdn.libsyn.com/p/3/9/0/390da96899933961/bbr03-29-07.mp3?c_id=1452161&amp;amp;expiration=1510258407&amp;amp;hwt=80124ed1f642f021acda4674f6e355eb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Charley Talley Interview&lt;/a&gt; this information is sourced from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2017-11-10T16:42:39.393" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T16:42:39.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2017-11-09T22:17:27.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Grandfather would put about 3 inches of Sour Cherries not pitted in each of 3 clean Gallon jugs. He would cover with sugar. The lid of the Jugs were punched with holes and cheese cloth patches over the top of the jugs and closed. They were put in a dark cellar for 5-6 weeks. After that time he would open the Jugs and fill them about 2/3 of the way to the top with 180 proof everclear (grain alcohol) The cherries at that time would have been all wrinkled like raisins. After a month in the cellar the liquid would be a very slight pink and the cherries were big and plumb. He would pour all the liquid through cheese cloth and then in to Decanters. The Cherries would be washed in a colander and stored in wide mouth jars. Only the adults were allowed to drink the Vishnick, but the Grandchildren could partake of the Cherries. Go and figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15610" LastEditorUserId="15610" LastEditDate="2017-11-09T23:35:01.017" LastActivityDate="2017-11-09T23:35:01.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22074" CreationDate="2017-11-10T05:10:22.870" Score="3" ViewCount="854" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the home-brewing process and I am attempting an experiment in which brewing yeast is added directly into juice for a period no longer than a week so that the yeast converts glucose into ethanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the tutorials I've seen documenting their process on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.xojane.com/diy/make-alcoholic-juice-champagne-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY juice home-brew (Linked from Life Hacker)&lt;/a&gt; don't seem to mention any sort of sanitation process, yet most of the actual home-brewing guides like the one from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://chrome-extension://oemmndcbldboiebfnladdacbdfmadadm/https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/homebrewassoc/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/How-To-Extract.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Homebrewers Association&lt;/a&gt; put a lot of emphasis on cleaning and sanitation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have spoken with a homebrewer about getting into the hobby, you've likely heard about the importance of cleaning and sanitizing. For many, sanitizing is the most important aspect of brewing. Unwanted yeast can contaminate beer if it is present in your carboy, on your &#xA;  thermometer or anywhere in between. &lt;strong&gt;Do not underestimate the importance of cleaning and sanitizing.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;DIY Juice Alcohol Process&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DIY Juice alcohol guides appear to quite consistent with their process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obtain pure juice, typically over 20g of sugar per serving&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill a container or carboy with juice (leave room as the fermenting process seems to raise the liquid level)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Directly add yeast to solution (it would appear the juice doubles as the &quot;wort&quot;?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Seal container with balloon or airlock&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait 5-7 days for juice to ferment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optional: Move juice solution to sealed container after 3 days if carbonation is desired&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I still need to apply the same care of cleaning and sanitizing to this simplified &quot;brewing&quot; process or is dish soap and a good rinsing enough to maintain reasonable levels of safety?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15611" LastEditorUserId="15611" LastEditDate="2017-11-13T21:30:00.833" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T21:30:00.833" Title="Sanitizing: Does the same standard apply for &quot;DIY Juice alcohol&quot;" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|diy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22073" CreationDate="2017-11-10T06:10:55.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is always the risk of an infection. You need to sanitize any equipment that comes in contact with the juice with starsan or another sanitizer. I would not use dish soap. I would even spray the yeast packet and the scissors used to open the yeast with sanitizer and put a little sanitizer in my airlock. This is a small and simple step to take and will prevent you having to do it over in a week or two when you have vinegar. What you are describing is almost the steps to making a wine kit so I would practice the same level of care. also potassium sorbate is bad for yeast so check the ingredients on the juice you purchase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T06:10:55.653" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-10T08:00:51.147" Score="2" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm very new at brewing and I'm looking to make a gift for my father. We have a small farm where we peel a lot of squash and cube it, leaving behind a lot of squash guts. I was wondering how I would go about making a sort of squash gut liqueur? Any amount of advice would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15612" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T17:25:20.917" Title="Brewing with Squash Guts" Tags="|fermentation|techniques|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22073" CreationDate="2017-11-10T09:23:40.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sanitation can be important, more so if one runs a factory that must hit output targets and timetables. But sanitation can be over emphasized. One wonders how the ancients struggled to make wine without StarSan. However it is perfectly possible to ferment and ferment well without &quot;chemical sanitisers&quot;. Boiling water is a very effective sanitiser and just being clean goes a long way. But it does depend on the brewing environment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strangely enough I would say that one could ferment &lt;em&gt;pasteurised&lt;/em&gt; fruit juice with minimal &quot;hard&quot; sanitation. IMHO the main point is to use a fermenting vessel that is free of debris and organic matter on the walls. Wash the insides of a demi-john well and rinse with hot water and allow to drain. Add fruit juice and then add some yeast. I usually re-hydrate yeast before adding to the fruit juice. Fit airlock and watch it go. It might be noted that some fruit juices work better than others, some blends are very much better than pure juice and that some juice needs dilution to be useful. When making orange wine for example, one might be advised to use oranges on the point of putrefaction, mouldy skin is certainly no barrier to their use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also very surprising how well natural ferments using wild yeast work. Pour (some) juice into a bowl and cover with a muslin cloth. Place outside for a while, eg a morning or even a day. Add the inoculated juice to the rest of the juice in a fermenting container. Let it ferment. It is surprising effective and usually produces a good brew. Lambics are based on such a principle. Country wines are still made today by pressing grapes and putting the must in a sealed wooden barrel. The barrel is usually cleaned just be scolding with boiling water. The wild yeast on the grapes ferments to produce very passable wine - which improves on ageing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be noted that various fruit juice ferments can vary in taste over time. Some brews are awful when first smelled (apple juice is a good example) but mature very well over extended time. Others are best drunk quickly. .  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T09:23:40.693" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22075" CreationDate="2017-11-10T09:33:53.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Liqueurs tend to be high in alcohol and thus produced by distillation and maybe subsequent infusion. That is not a topic we generally advise on here. However sweet squash guts may well be a good source of sugars for fermenting - especially if an amylase is added to break down the bigger carbs.&#xA;Apart from liqueur, Pumpkins can form part of a beer recipe. Pumpkin ales tend to be made with malt with pumpkin flesh added in the ferment - in effect pumpkin flavoured beer. It is possible to ferment pumpkin mash on its own but it tends to be a messy process and when I tasted the resulting ferment it was a bit slimy. So I rarely recommend fermenting pure pumpkin without further processing. YMMV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T09:33:53.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22073" CreationDate="2017-11-10T11:28:11.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One reason why you can generally brew without sanitizing equipment is that you are deliberately putting a lot of yeast cells into the brew. So they start with a high population advantage and that allows yeast mostly to out-compete any non-yeast contaminants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason is that yeast is successful because the yeast cells tend to clump together with themselves and non-yeast cells and either settle to the bottom or to the top in a thick layer. This is a natural process that allows yeast to be a better competitor... I can't reference this, it was something I read in a brewing book many years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third reason is that yeast produces alcohol! For a lot of competing organisms, alcohol is toxic and will inhibit their growth at concentrations where yeast is quite happy to carry on growing. Alcohol is not a waste product of yeast, it's a deliberate environmental toxin excreted to kill off competitors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That given, if you don't sanitize the equipment you will sometimes lose a batch to some unwanted non-yeast or wrong-yeast that doesn't make alcohol. If you're making hundreds of barrels a week, one or two failing is acceptable. If you're making only 1 and it fails, it's bad. For that reason, home brewers are best off sanitizing their kit. Commercial brewers also now are best off sanitizing their kit, because they no longer make hundreds of separate barrels but now make many fewer huge vats at at time... so losing one is a big percentage of their work wasted. Also commercially, consumers want a consistent product so presence of any odd flavours from contaminating micro-organisms is not acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15615" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T11:28:11.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22066" CreationDate="2017-11-10T16:33:48.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;smelled horrible -- like butyric acid, so I know it got colder than the recommended temperature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Butyric_Acid&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Butyric acid&lt;/a&gt; producers like Clostridium favor temps around 104°F (37°C), which is also a similar temp as what is favored by some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Lactobacillus&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lactobacillus&lt;/a&gt; strains, so they way you control its production is by lowering the wort pH. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but then thought to try and add some brett&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Brettanomyces&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brettanomyces&lt;/a&gt; can convert butyric acid into Ethyl Butyrate at low levels, however, a few strains of Brettanomyces bruxellensis have been shown to produce butyric acid. (Same article linked above.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the main taste is very acidic/vinegary (pH was at 3.84 in August)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.themadfermentationist.com/2011/11/measuring-sour-beer-ph.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pH around 4 is considered &quot;tart&quot;&lt;/a&gt; and levels closer to 3 are &quot;bracing&quot; or &quot;face melting&quot;. In my experience, 3.8 is kind of a threshold where at or above is an easy drinker and below they become puckering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have about 1.75 gallons worth.&#xA;  If I do blend it, should I do it now or wait a few more months? And what would work best for a blend? Or will this thing taste perfect after sitting for at least a year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sourbeerblog.com/sour-beer-blending/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blending sours&lt;/a&gt; is a technique often utilized to experiment with different flavors, often combining young and old sours, but shouldn't be used to &quot;fix&quot; a defect or cover up an off flavor. Since you only have 1.75G, at this point I think I would try to learn from the experience as much information as you can to prevent it in the future and toss it. With rancid/vomit/fecal aromas or flavors, especially in absence of alcohol (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Wild_Yeast_Isolation#Safety&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dangerous&lt;/a&gt;!), you really want to scrap and start over. Blending is just going to ruin more than one beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YMMV. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T16:33:48.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22075" CreationDate="2017-11-10T17:25:20.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a Squash liqueur it's pretty simple. Roast some squash until soft, then add it too a jar and top up with some vodka and sugar and spices. Let it around for a couple of weeks, then drink. I found several recipes using google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a good &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kitchenkonfidence.com/2012/11/butternut-squash-five-spice-liqueur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;INGREDIENTS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 to 4 pound butternut squash &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good quality vodka&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 cup white sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 cup packed light brown sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 whole star anise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 cinnamon stick, broken into smaller pieces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 tablespoon fennel seeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 tablespoon black peppercorns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 teaspoon whole cloves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 cups water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;INSTRUCTIONS&#xA;Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Peel butternut squash, cut in half lengthwise, then clean out seeds and guts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard skin, seeds and guts. Cut the squash up into 1.5-inch chunks. Spread out in an even layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake until it is tender (test by inserting the tip of a knife), 20 – 30 minutes. Do not overcook here. The squash should be tender, but not falling apart. Let the squash cool to room temperature, then transfer to a large mason jar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add vodka to the jar until it covers the squash by 1 inch (I used between 750 ml and 1 L). Seal the jar and store in a cool, dark spot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give the jar a gentle shake every few days. Start tasting the vodka after 1 week. The finished infusion should taste very strongly of butternut squash. I was pleased with the flavor after 2 weeks; however, this can vary based on taste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you are satisfied with the butternut squash flavor, pour the mixture through a medium-mesh basket strainer into a clean bowl or jar. Discard the solids. Strain again through a fine-mesh strainer into another clean bowl or jar. Set aside while you prepare the 5-Spice Syrup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In small saucepan, combine sugars, spices and water. Bring mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Once the mixture comes to a boil, drop the heat to low, and simmer for 5 minutes. Let the mixture cool completely, then strain out all of the spices. Discard spices.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour syrup into the infused vodka, stirring to combine. Cover and let rest for 1 more day before serving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T17:25:20.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22098" CreationDate="2017-11-11T08:22:12.483" Score="5" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was thinking about switching from extract with grains brewing to all grain brewing using the BIAB method.&#xA;I had this idea to use several of the small disposable bags I get for the grains in the extract and grains method instead of a big one for all of the grains. Is there a down side I'm not seeing for this method? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T01:15:52.663" Title="Doing BIAB with several smaller bags instead of a big one" Tags="|equipment|mash|biab|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22081" CreationDate="2017-11-11T09:37:49.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A brewster friend had just such a set up for all-grain brewing. It seemed to work well and the beer was fine. It seemed easier to handle the smaller bags as they were not as heavy (or so full of wort).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2017-11-11T09:37:49.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22081" CreationDate="2017-11-11T14:48:56.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory this would work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only caution would be to make sure your milled grain very well blended to have even portions of each grain in each bag. Since mixing it as a whole as  once in the mash would not be an option as easily if it was one a large bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reason for this is to to make sure enzymes from your base malt are everywhere so your mash gets even coverage for conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example. Say you use 3 bags. 2 have your base malt and the third is filled with specialty grains with no or low diastatic power. The third bags area would result in an unconverted starchy mess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-11-11T14:48:56.750" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20370" CreationDate="2017-11-11T18:15:49.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that when looking for low gelatinization temperatures, a good guide are sous vide recipes. For instance, in this recipe for carrots it recommends 183&amp;ordm;F (84ºC)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2010/06/sous-vide-glazed-carrots-recipe.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2010/06/sous-vide-glazed-carrots-recipe.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;sous vide is basically cooking at the &quot;doneness&quot; temperature of meats or veggies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15619" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T10:45:33.250" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T10:45:33.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22088" CreationDate="2017-11-12T13:27:26.147" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is is there any long term or &quot;memory effect&quot; on the expression of maltase in yeast that has been grown or mainly grown with glucose? In effect does yeast grown with glucose &quot;forget&quot; (or have some form of continuing metabolic impediment) how to metabolise maltose?&#xA;A somewhat technical question prompted by discussion elsewhere. Catabolic inhibition by glucose is well known and documented. Glucose is preferentially absorbed by yeast and an excess of it will repress the uptake and cleaving of maltose as a result. My understanding is that once the glucose is depleted (or drops below threshold levels) the yeast is once again free to transport maltose through the cell membrane and express maltase to catabolise it. Does anyone one know any different? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-11-13T11:25:21.240" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T11:25:21.240" Title="Is there any permanent inhibition of maltase production in yeast by glucose" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-12T16:20:52.673" Score="4" ViewCount="940" Body="&lt;p&gt;After several years of beer brewing, I started experimenting with moonshine. I figured since Im distilling I dont have to deal with all the exacting procedures of beer making and I just needed basic sugar water to ferment and distill. So I did just that. I added 2 packages of white table sugar (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.pinimg.com/236x/c5/a9/e0/c5a9e0778a611c8f8da53f1ec038ed2c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.pinimg.com/236x/c5/a9/e0/c5a9e0778a611c8f8da53f1ec038ed2c.jpg&lt;/a&gt;) and 4 gallons of fruit juice to a bucket of water mixed it and added yeast. I sed this high ABV distillers dry yeast (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0064O77LQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064O77LQ&lt;/a&gt;). The first time I did this the yeast went CRAZY! I had heavy foam coming out of the airlock! Ive never seen that before. The resulting 'beer' was fairly disgusting, but after distilling 2x made some great shine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast forward to the 2nd time I did this, 4 months after the first time. I added the same yeast (which was sitting in an unrefrigerated ziplock bag) to the same wort. Hydrometer said it was supposed to be 15% ABV. This time however, the fermentation is going super slow, and pretty much stopped at 7.5%. The max rate of bubbles in airloc was 1 every 3 seconds - pretty slow even for beer. Thinking the yeast might've went bad, I added another yeast (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0064O6Z4Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064O6Z4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&lt;/a&gt;). Still nothing. Its still fermenting but super slowly. Last check the hydrometer was at 5% ABV. This is after 2.5 weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whats going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 1: Can yeast process water + table sugar or does it need additional nutrients (ie like &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/what-exactly-is-yeast-nutrient/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://beerandbrewing.com/what-exactly-is-yeast-nutrient/&lt;/a&gt;). Does fruit juice help? If so, why did the fermentation work so well last time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 2: What can I add to save the batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Roman&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7955" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T00:40:34.307" Title="Table sugar + fruitjuice + yeast not fermenting" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|distillation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22086" CreationDate="2017-11-12T19:08:59.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have already answered your first question yourself, if you think about it. You said your yeast went crazy, so it did not have any problems, nutrients were not needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, keeping your dry yeast for four months outside a refrigerator is probably asking for problems. A whole lot of yeast has already died, and so you get a slow and stuck fermentation. If you had kept it refrigerated, then you would probably had a much better fermentation. I have used open yeast packet, refrigerated, from a year old. Also, always remove as much air as you can from the container where you store your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get your fermentation going again, you should do the following things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack your current beverage off from the old yeast into a new vessel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With new yeast and some apple juice, make a starter. Take your time, and give this a swirl every a couple of times in an hour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add this starter to the rest of your beverage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with the fermentation on top of the old yeast is that this yeast sends out chemical signals that inhibit further fermentation. That is the reason to first rack the current fermentation into another vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take care of sanitation of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-11-12T19:08:59.567" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22085" CreationDate="2017-11-12T23:34:27.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast will consume the all sugars available equally, but glucose goes first. Mainly because the smaller molecular size of the simple sugar and cell wall surface area. Because feeding and cell growth continue during fermentation, there are more and more bud scars that physically block larger sugar molecules in areas of the cell wall. The new cells created are usually short lived as they Haven't had the chance for nutrient uptake to have strong cell walls to tolerate the ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the actual pathways changing or a limitaion of Maltase production. I don't believe this to be the case, it's just an issue of cell wall surface capable of receiving the large molecule. The maltase never gets to contact the maltose if the maltose is hindered into the pathway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A culture grown on just glucose can be grown into new cells that can accept maltose, by keeping the step starters low in OG, mostly made up of complex sugars and retarding the metabolism with cool temps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-11-12T23:46:31.067" LastActivityDate="2017-11-12T23:46:31.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22086" CreationDate="2017-11-13T12:06:32.973" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that keeping an opened packet of dry yeast at room temp for some time will decrease the viability of the stored yeast. Maybe a hydration mix or growing on in a starter might have helped but it would have been preferable to use new yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many yeasts will metabolise sucrose (table sugar). It is cleaved and converted to glucose by sucrase and invertase. But better than sucrose is glucose. It is preferentially catabolised by the yeast. Glucose/dextrose/brewing sugar can be bought in 25Kg sacks as well as smaller amounts from Brewing/HomeBrew suppliers. IIRC 8Kg is required for 24L of mash. They say fermentation can take 48 hours but be prepared to wait 5 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume the fruit juice was to add some form of nutrient as much as any extra sugars or flavours. Some fruit juices are pasteurised (which is OK for yeast) and some contain metabolite inhibitors (&quot;preservatives&quot;) which will not be optimal for fermenting - but they often work if enough yeast is added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if one is simply brewing mash for distillation then a good idea is to use glucose and a  pack &quot;Alcotec turbo yeast&quot; (or similar) - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Homebrew-Winemaking-Alcotec-Turbo-Super/dp/B004NCJE1C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;also available via Amazon&lt;/a&gt;.  The turbo yeast contains all the nutrient needed to get 24L to 21% ABV as well as the high tolerance yeast. Some packs even contain activated carbon to add to the brew to boost it up to nearer 24% ABV. It is usually more efficient and cheaper than buying fruit juice &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-05T00:40:34.307" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T00:40:34.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22091" CreationDate="2017-11-13T14:43:30.497" Score="1" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m still early in my homebrew education, and am trying a couple new Northern Brewer kits. I recently bought a kit for a Dubbel that suggested the Omega Belgian A yeast, but I accidentally purchased the C strain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m sure the beer will turn out just fine, but I don’t know enough about yeast strains to know what is affected by swapping these out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given my newbie status, would it be better to make the trek to exchange the yeast, or should I plot ahead with my now-unique brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13804" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-11-13T20:46:33.650" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T20:46:33.650" Title="Swapping Omega Belgian A with Omega Abbey Ale C" Tags="|yeast|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22090" CreationDate="2017-11-13T16:21:36.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;the biggest difference is, the Flocculation and ester/phenol profiles of the two strains. I have used the Belgian ale yeast from omega, and it give a nice spicy and fruity notes when fermented at higher temps. I have not used the abbey ale yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.omegayeast.com/portfolio/abbey-ale-c/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Abbey Ale C --&#xA;Flocculation:Medium-Low&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Abbey ale strain’s trappist origin is best coupled with a little monastic patience: a notably low flocculator, it is highly attenuative with a fruity profile and lightly perceptible spiciness, as well as often significant banana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.omegayeast.com/portfolio/belgian-ale/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Belgian Ale A -- &#xA;Flocculation:High&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As one of the few highly flocculent Belgian ale strains, the thought-to-be Ardennes strain makes a great Belgian house. It is brewery friendly, crops easily and has a well rounded flavor profile that balances fruitiness and phenolics. Esters increase with upward temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you are not a fan of the banana flavor then exchange it, but otherwise i would keep the current selection and see how it turns out, it will still give you a Belgian taste either way you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T16:21:36.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19200" CreationDate="2017-11-14T12:35:13.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Oxiclean countless times. The regular version and the free with no off flavors! Be sure to rinse well and you will be fine. If used in conjunction with hard water it can cause an oxide layer to build up on stainless over time. However this can be removed by passivation with an acid cleaner such as StarSan. I use Oxiclean most of the time but on the real tough jobs I use PBW which is way more expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T12:35:13.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21891" CreationDate="2017-11-14T16:32:01.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have kegs, why not just use CO2 to carb it?  That's what I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T16:32:01.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22013" CreationDate="2017-11-14T16:39:06.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use vodka in my airlocks, you know, just in case it gets sucked in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15624" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-11-15T11:46:31.717" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T11:46:31.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-14T17:13:53.543" Score="2" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maths was always my worst subject....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a fixed lauter-grill/filter at the bottom of my mash tun so i can't stir anything that falls through it = the gas burner gives me a burnt bottom :( &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts about adding hotter water to the mash to raise the temp rather than using the gas, or a combo of both? If you think doable, please help me work out the numbers for say a 500 litre mash :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equation something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;250L @ 57C to mash in (for 10 mins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add 100L of hotter water @ X degrees C = 350L @ 66 degrees C (for one hour).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add 150L of hotter water @ X degrees C = 500L @ 78 degrees C (for 15 mins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I worry about ever seeing water in a mash go above 78C (sour flavours appear) so am reluctant to add anything even close to boiling water, although added slowly may dilute the heat enough....???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts appreciated! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15624" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T21:05:58.820" Title="Increasing mash temp by adding hot water rather than heating the mash?" Tags="|mash|temperature|mashing|mash-tun|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22095" CreationDate="2017-11-14T19:52:06.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add all the hot water you want &lt;strong&gt;as long as you don't go over the full volume of the water for your batch of beer&lt;/strong&gt;. Many people do full volume mashes using the full volume of water they will need for the boil. Look up water ratios doing Brew in a bag or full volume mash in google. The other option is do do a decoction mash, pull out a portion of the mash and heating it up and re-introducing the hotter portion to raise the temperature. But, seriously, adding more hot water to your mash is just fine. Decoction mashes go briefly over 78c with no detrimental effects in this case sour flavors. It takes a while for that to happen and you'll be boiling before the sourness sets in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T19:52:06.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22095" CreationDate="2017-11-14T21:05:58.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;John Palmer covers this in his How to Brew book. An old version is available online, and the equations you want can be found at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/the-methods-of-mashing/calculations-for-boiling-water-additions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/the-methods-of-mashing/calculations-for-boiling-water-additions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14959" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T21:05:58.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22081" CreationDate="2017-11-15T01:15:52.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using this method for three years or more, starting off with four bags and then cutting back to three, with between 1.5kg and 2kg per bag. If mixing grain, I split the different varieties equally between the bags. These are what we call laundry bags in Australia (designed to hold delicate items in washing machines). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially I used to tie the bags with twine, then moved to zip ties, before eventually sourcing some bags with built in zip closures which are excellent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Care needs to be taken when adding bags to strike water in order to avoid any dough balls. My method is to add one bag at a time, using a paint stirrer to turn each bag over thoroughly to ensure that all grain comes into contact with the water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has been no need for me to reveal my method to fellow AG brewers, and they have given many of my beers the &quot;thumbs up&quot;, with none of them querying my procedures. Most of these beers are in the 5%-6% ABV range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It beats the hell out of lifting one bag, especially when I have nowhere, and I mean nowhere, to install a pulley lifting system. As a matter of fact, I would not be doing BIAB if it were not for the multiple smaller bag method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T01:15:52.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6167" CreationDate="2017-11-15T16:21:45.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While low calcium content might end up reducing the speed and tendency for yeast to flocculate, it isn't really making beer otherwise cloudier. High calcium content also does not cause cloudy beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem with high calcium in water apparently has more to do with yeast flocculation and metabolism. The research data points out that lager yeast can be more susceptible to premature flocculation and impaired fermentation performance when calcium levels in the brewing water are high. It appears prudent to keep calcium content in brewing water below 50 ppm when using lager strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15629" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T16:21:45.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22105" CreationDate="2017-11-16T05:41:41.983" Score="2" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is my first grape wine home brewing and I have been reading up a lot regarding yeast fermentation. I like my wine bit sweet and I read that either adding alcohol as in port method or adding a preservative once wine gets completely dry then back sweetening are two ways people do it. My doubt is, can adding more sugar get me the same result? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More sugar means more alcohol and yeast cant ferment beyond a limit so thereby having residual sugar sweetens the wine.  However I read about stuck fermentation that happens when sugar content is more so how is it different from arresting fermentation like in port if ultimately I need is an off dry or sweet wine?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15630" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-11-16T16:16:51.080" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T16:16:51.080" Title="Stuck fermentation vs arrested fermentation" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|primary-fermentation|stuck-fermentation|sweetness|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22100" CreationDate="2017-11-16T10:22:53.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding sugar beyond the point of a yeast ability to ferment it is the common way to make a sweet wine. Sometimes the sugar has to be added in two or more stages to fit the fermentaion characteristics of the yeast. Too high a concentration of sugar can stifle yeast as much as alcohol can. If the yeast has attenuated fully then sugar can be added to sweeten the wine without a yeast metabolic inhibitor (which I tend to shy from recommending anyway). However sweet wine must be of sufficient ABV to inhibit bacteria as well. If it isn't then one might have a reason to use a preservative (eg sorbate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be supposed that the flavour profile of sweet wines will be different according to how the final ABV was achieved. The last stages of natural fermentation of a high gravity juice may produce differing flavour profiles compared to the inhibited fermentation of a subsequently fortified wine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within those provisos and IMHO, adding alcohol to a wine is effectively the same as the yeast producing and reaching its own alcoholic limit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-11-16T11:34:58.400" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T11:34:58.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-16T10:52:44.840" Score="5" ViewCount="3680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made my way into homebrewing with LME, hops, adjuncts and Dady yeast. Dady yeast (Distillers Active Dry Yeast) is a distillers yeast strain which is supposed to produce a lower final gravity than the gravity produced by other yeasts. Dady yeast is supposed to eat malt sugars, otherwise, How could it be used to make whisky?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am happy so far with the flavor of my beers, however I wonder if I am missing a much more tasty beer by not using ale yeast. I know I could just try making a batch with a different yeast but, do you think my beer could dramatically improve if I use yeasts made for beer brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15148" LastEditorUserId="15148" LastEditDate="2017-11-19T16:37:53.943" LastActivityDate="2021-03-24T02:29:27.633" Title="Dady yeast for beer?" Tags="|fermentation|beer|yeast|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22102" CreationDate="2017-11-16T11:51:28.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most probably yes, depending on the beer style you want to brew. Yeast, hop bill and wort makeup are perhaps the main parameters to making beer. I am sure some will add temperature and a whole gaggle of other points (e.g. water). But as they say, &quot;the brewer makes the wort and the yeast makes the beer&quot;. So the yeast is important - but are its minor variations/varieties/mutations any more important than composition of the wort and other environmental parameters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;DADY&quot; is a yeast selected to produce alcohol to a maximal degree usually from sugar or glucose wash. The production of fusel oils, esters, acids and similar compounds by the yeast are not considered overly important in such cases because the wash is designed for distillation and fractionation not direct human consumption. Beer (apparently) is not made with those goals in mind and the ale yeasts are usually selected by brewers/biologists to produce low quantities of fusel oils and undesirable compounds. What brewers think is &quot;undesirable&quot; tends to be reflected in the strain of yeast they use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all that it is often surprising how one yeast can be re-purposed to produce another type of brew. I am sure DADy can be used to brew a very palatable beer in the right conditions. I have used wine yeast for brewing beer and I drank all I made. Not sure how much different it was to (say) using a Safale05 yeast. The beer seemed quite dry and tasty!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T11:51:28.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22102" CreationDate="2017-11-16T13:12:27.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Improve&quot;? That depends. If you change from your DADY yeast, let's call this your house yeast. Your beers will be different and maybe even closer to the style of beer you're brewing. But maybe not better to all palates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Different&quot;? Absolutely. Yeast effects beers more than many new homebrewers know. For example you wouldn't be able to make a Belgian beer or a Saison without the proper yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try it! Your next batch, split your fermentation into two beers. One with your house yeast and one with something new.  WhiteLabs (American yeast producer) has a brewery and tasting room. They do flights of 4 beers each, all the same batch just different yeasts. Its amazing how different the beers are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2017-11-17T21:24:49.810" LastActivityDate="2017-11-17T21:24:49.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22100" CreationDate="2017-11-16T14:40:53.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways to sweeten wine: Filtering, Mutage, too much sugar and adding something sweet after the wine has finished. Commercial wineries do not use sorbates to kill the yeast and preserve some of the sweetness. It screws up the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By far the most used way to preserve sweetness is to filter a wine either before it's done fermenting or add sugar and then sterile filter. Sterile filtering in this case is .3u (micron). This is also done in conjunction with a pretty high dose of potassium bisulfite to keep the little bugs from refermenting again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mutage is a french term for adding alcohol to a still fermenting wine (think Port or Madeira) and can make wonderfully sweetish wines that last for hundreds of years. I tasted a Madeira from 1780 a couple of years ago. It blew my mind. No filtering necessary here since above 20% alcohol it kills the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can keep adding sugar until you reach the theoretical limit of the yeast, but you will have problems with this as the yeast will keep trying to ferment slowly over many years and you are likely to end up with bottle grenades randomly exploding over time. Since you can't get it over 20% naturally, there is a space between around 17% and 20% where the yeast is kind of still alive trying to ferment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also suppress the yeast with a really high dose of potassium bisulfite, but then that also gives off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you have to choices. Either bring the alcohol level above 20% with vodka (you will have to figure out the math on that) or just add a bit of sugar to your bottle before you want to consume it. Without investing in a sterile filter, this is all you really have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T14:40:53.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21991" CreationDate="2017-11-16T14:49:05.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is not really any difference between wine and cider when it comes to filtering. Just make sure you settle your cider a few weeks before filtering so you don't clog the filter. The cider should be pretty clear before you send it through the filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T14:49:05.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22100" CreationDate="2017-11-16T16:12:04.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option is to add non fermentable sugar (sweetener like Glycerin).  Wine making stores will often sell it in bottles labeled as &quot;Wine Conditioner&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T16:12:04.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22109" CreationDate="2017-11-16T18:13:22.017" Score="3" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible for  flavors to stick with a bag used for BIAB brewing, and for it to transfer them to my next brew? If so, what can I do to avoid it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T14:34:20.593" Title="Is it possible for flavors from the malts to stick with a mash bag?" Tags="|equipment|mash|biab|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22108" CreationDate="2017-11-16T18:48:33.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In practice a nylon bag can become discoloured but it rarely gets so contaminated as to actually affect the flavour of a brew. As long as the bag is cleaned of all debris and thoroughly rinsed it should keep well. It is advisable to soak the bag in water soon after the grain is emptied out. If the bag becomes stained or clogged then soaking in a solution of something like VWP (a commercial brewing sanitiser/detergent) should clean it. Others use Vanish or similar peroxide bleaches. I have seen bags washed in domestic washing machines using standard laundry detergents -  but watch out for zips/studs/etc catching and ripping the bag in a mixed wash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bag is all plastic construction it can be soaked in a bucket of hot water, then well rinsed and finally microwaved.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T18:48:33.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22111" CreationDate="2017-11-17T12:58:33.840" Score="1" ViewCount="632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about doing a series of lightweight, flavorful beers. The fact is, I'm not going to drink more than one or two beers a night: I want to be able to drive my kids to the ER if I have to. But if I can Brew a sub 3% beer then I could have three or four without a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found a handful of great sounding recipes, but I was surprised none of them were stouts... It feels like a dry or sweet stout would barely be out of style with that low of an ABV. And the grain bill should cover the low gravity nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm leaning toward using an existing recipe, but just dropping a bunch of Base malt. Will I run into any issues by doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1537" LastActivityDate="2017-11-17T14:31:07.233" Title="Low ABV stout recipe" Tags="|recipe-formulation|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22110" CreationDate="2017-11-17T14:13:03.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scaling back just the base malts (fermentables) will lean a style to have more mouth feel body and make residual unfermentable sugars more noticeable without the alcohol to &quot;cut&quot; them down. These changes can also be countered by water dilution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had a 4% ABV recipe and scaled back the fermentables 25% it should still be pretty close to style and enjoyable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want to geek out to try and simulate the original beer closer you can dilute with water. Let's use a 10 gallon 4% ABV recipe scaled to 3% ABV as the example. It loses 25% of its ABV but 1% ABV is only 0.5% of the fluid volume. Now adding 6.4oz of water to 10 gallons wouldn't change much of anything because alcohol as far as mouth feel and flavor &quot;cuts&quot; more than water. From experience adding water equal to the the volume the missing alcohol would occupy gets it pretty close. 1 cup water + 1 cup alcohol = 1.5 cups fluid. So for this example add 19.2 fl oz or 2.4 cups of water, post boil or even post fermentation. Doesn't sound like much and will reduce the recipes ABV by 1.5% going from 3.0 to 2.955, But it does work and this is just for the geek factor, you will probably be very happy with just reducing the base malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Irish and sweet stouts have a BJCP style baseline of 4-4.2 ABV.  But all styles can be a Sessions also.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, consider brewing second runnings (partygyle) of a buddies all grain stout brew. I've found that a 7-8% ABV brew can have second runnings that can make great sessions with very little tweaking. Look up how scottish/60 is historically made for more insights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-11-17T14:31:07.233" LastActivityDate="2017-11-17T14:31:07.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22113" CreationDate="2017-11-18T06:31:10.060" Score="1" ViewCount="1122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a novice &quot;homebrewer&quot; about to attempt my first ever brew. I've been reading about a homebrewing process in which yeast is added directly to a juice for a period of time in order to achieve alcoholic content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want my yeast to be able to carbonate my brew, but I also don't want to bottle too soon so that I have a bad sulfurous smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My Planned Process&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aiming to make a carbonated alcoholic cider at least 5% abv (I do not plan on clarifying the brew):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitation: Star San for consistency.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Juice: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplyorangejuice.com/product/apple&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simply Apple&lt;/a&gt;, &gt; 20 g of sugar per serving, minimum preservatives (no sodium benzoate or potassium sorbate), pasteurized (not sure which process, apparently cold (UV) pasteurized is preferred?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Container: 1 Gallon Carboy with airlock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lallemandbrewing.com/product-details/belle-saison-beer-yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lallemand Belle Saison&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starter: Introduce yeast into juice in separate bottle, seal, shake, rest for 6 hours or until bubbling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment, then bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading about apple cider brews, it came to my attention that they can yield unpleasant armomas, &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/17531/cider-kit-has-made-a-really-bad-eggy-smell-will-this-go-away?rq=1&quot;&gt;like in this question&lt;/a&gt;, where the remedy was to simply wait, unless the brew was &quot;infected&quot; (I believe my sanitation process should prevent this). &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.xojane.com/diy/make-alcoholic-juice-champagne-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simple guides&lt;/a&gt; on the subject suggest a &lt;strong&gt;3 day wait&lt;/strong&gt; until bottling if carbonation is desired, while the stackexchange post suggest a &lt;strong&gt;2 week wait&lt;/strong&gt; to wait for the sulfurous smell to be released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How long should I wait till bottling my brew so that I can achieve a smell-free carbonated brew?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15611" LastEditorUserId="15611" LastEditDate="2017-11-30T08:23:16.863" LastActivityDate="2017-11-30T08:23:16.863" Title="Cider fermentation and carbonation" Tags="|cider|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22112" CreationDate="2017-11-18T14:23:03.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sulfur odor is usually gassed off in a vigorous fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Couple suggestions.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Saison yeast may not be the best choice, it can add a peppery ester that may not work well in a cider. I would simply use a wine or Champaign yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fully ferment the cider don't try to bottle it at that magic point to achieve carbonation. Most ciders will be fully fermented in a &lt;strong&gt;couple weeks&lt;/strong&gt; or less. Only a gravity reading will tell you for sure, when it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it's a 1 gallon batch. After fermentaion is complete. Add about 2 cups of the same unfermented juice to the batch then bottle it. This will &quot;prime&quot; it again with sugar for the yeast that's already in suspension to naturally carbonate the bottles. 2 weeks is the normal wait time for bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T14:23:03.567" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22108" CreationDate="2017-11-18T14:34:20.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not experienced any carry over from stained bags or beer lines for that matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's clean, it's clean. Staining is usually just a pigment change.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it's about like tasting a washed white shirt with a ketchup stain and expecting to taste ketchup. Nope just normal cotton flavor! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T14:34:20.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-18T19:08:13.737" Score="3" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no brewing experience but I had a half-gallon of cider in my fridge that started fermenting after we had only drank one glass. It seems the fermentation has slowed now as the bottle is no longer bulging but I don't know where to go from here. Is it safe to drink? Should I boil it just in case? TIA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15638" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T11:40:37.133" Title="Can I do anything with cider that self-fermented?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-19T07:08:00.180" Score="0" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is Sake / Shochu used to make Mirin ? Can we add yeast to the Koji-Rice mixture instead ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15622" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T11:40:44.150" Title="Why is Sake / Shochu used to make Mirin?" Tags="|yeast|secondary-fermentation|sake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22115" CreationDate="2017-11-19T15:07:58.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt it fully fermented if sealed all this time. Being that this wasn't intentionally done with sanitation in mind &lt;strong&gt;I would discard it&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern would be that someone may have drank directly from it and introduced a host of bacteria from saliva and the fermentation didn't reach a point for the alcohol to kill off said bacteria because of the sealed bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-11-19T15:07:58.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22123" CreationDate="2017-11-20T10:21:34.147" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is my first home brew. The batch size was 10ltr. I used 100% wheat malt of 2 kgs and used bitter orange peel of 36gm instead of Hop. The OG was1.02 and FG is 1.01 after 14 days of fermentation using Safale S04 of 11.5g at 25 - 27°C. After 14 days though it taste like flat beer but the colour is very light golden and it taste too much citrusy... &#xA;I have attached an image of it&#xA;Kindly suggest what may go wrong...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSmLb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSmLb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Very light golden hazy beer with citrus flavour&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15369" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2017-11-20T16:22:53.203" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T16:22:53.203" Title="Very light golden hazy beer with citrus flavour" Tags="|beer|beer-styles|wheat-beer|beersmith|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-20T11:50:17.210" Score="2" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;want to try to ferment under the pressure for the first time.,just to clear few things, please correct me if I’m about to do something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool down the wort in a kettle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer to the keg.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust pressure relief valve,let the pressure build to 15 psi,and keep it at 15 psi till fermentation will complete.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool down and drink carbonated beer?&#xA;The questions are,is 10 days of primary fermentation will be enough to carbonate the beer under 15-20 psi?&#xA;If I ferment under lower psi let’s say 5 can I use priming sugar and bottle it with out creating bottle bombs, cos there will be already CO2 in the beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15270" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T15:18:16.330" Title="Ferment and naturally carbonate in a keg" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22119" CreationDate="2017-11-20T15:05:52.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As farmersteve said that bottle isn't going to work for carbonating. You need a bottle that will be air tight, and to add a priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cloudy is to be expected from 100% wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the citrus balance, I think the 1.24oz / 36gm of peel was fine. And the amount of grain was good. You just had poor effenciency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your OG is about half what it should have been with that recipe I get a target OG of 1.044 at 75 % efficiency with the volumes and weights you provided. So it's going to &lt;em&gt;basically&lt;/em&gt; have half of the other attributes of the malt too, which is why the citrus is over bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe if you can update with the exact kind of wheat you used and your brew process we can help with the efficiency problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T15:05:52.300" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22120" CreationDate="2017-11-20T15:18:16.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That basically how it's done. However what you may have overlooked is what to do about the yeast trub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen conversion kits for corny kegs that have a floating pick up tube so this process can be fermented and poured from the same keg without pouring a gallon of trub out first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend naturaly carbonates in his spedials he's found that setting the relief to 8psi during most of the fermentation then to 15psi after most fermentation is complete gives him better results. &lt;strong&gt;Yeast can get stressed and have poor health if the cO2 and pressure increases too fast.&lt;/strong&gt; he then racks the carbonated fined beer to corny kegs for serving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T15:18:16.330" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22116" CreationDate="2017-11-20T15:47:25.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finished Sake isn't used to make the mirin. But a scoby is. Like sake, mirin needs the bacteria in the scoby to make the sugars for the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just adding yeast to the rice will not work. You need something for saccrification process (enzymes from bacteria or fungi) to convert the starch to sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: based on Pete and neels comments, if your koji-rice mixture has converted the starches to sugars &lt;strong&gt;then yes adding yeast will work&lt;/strong&gt; by making a scoby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-11-21T11:40:44.150" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T11:40:44.150" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22129" CreationDate="2017-11-20T18:05:58.343" Score="2" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shelf in my fridge broke, dropping my fermenter something like 10-20cm, all though he is still close, can it oxidise  my beer? The wort was 2 days into the fermentation process and the yeast is safeale us-05 if that's relevant  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T20:05:10.237" Title="Is falling bad for fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|oxidation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22127" CreationDate="2017-11-20T19:33:04.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the drop did not cause your fermenter to break, and it did not cause suction of fluid through the waterlock so that air could enter, your fermentation should still be all right. I do not think that the deceleration forces would have influence on the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T19:33:04.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22127" CreationDate="2017-11-20T20:05:10.237" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly you should be concerned with contamination. If the fall didn't compromise the lid or cause unwanted wild yeast or bacteria to get into your fermenter then you should be fine. Since I am assuming that your wort is actively fermenting then you should have a nice blanket of CO2 protecting your wort and oxidation shouldn't be an issue. I am also assuming there was not a rush of air into your fermenter through your airlock or something crazy like that. Your yeast probably got stirred up and you may have a muddy mess inside but give it a couple of days and that should settle out. So unless I am misunderstanding your situation I think you will be fine. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13721" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T20:05:10.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-20T20:39:55.020" Score="1" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a half-gallon jug of sweet tea from Bonjangle's months ago.&#xA;Didn't drink it, but kept it in my fridge for about 3 months. The plastic jug was bloated when I came to realize it.&#xA;I knew it wasn't too ideal but felt adventurous, so I tried it. tasted pretty good, kind of like mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had not added any yeast or anything into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it super bad that I tried something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15643" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T13:08:55.910" Title="sweet tea spontaneous fermantation" Tags="|fermentation|tea|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22133" CreationDate="2017-11-21T00:48:57.807" Score="2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title pretty much says it. We know &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/fermentation/temperature-factors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fermenter temperatures can be well above ambient&lt;/a&gt;, but which range are the yeast manufacturers referring to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T04:23:28.447" Title="Is the temperature range listed on the yeast manufacturers' websites ambient or fermenter?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22132" CreationDate="2017-11-21T02:07:30.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They must be referring to the temperature of the yeasties themselves, which would be the fermenter temperature. Nothing else makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14959" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T02:07:30.427" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-21T08:38:17.483" Score="1" ViewCount="2272" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the dangers of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempeh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tempeh&lt;/a&gt; cultures (Rhizopus Oligosporus and Rhizopus Oryzae) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After handling raw Tempeh you should wash your hands and all surfaces, cutting boards, knives and utensils with soap and hot water. Tempeh manufacturers that sell raw Tempeh must inform their clients about above safety measures, for example by mentioning it on the label. &#xA;  -&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tempeh.info/faq/faq.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tempeh.info/faq/faq.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15622" LastEditorUserId="15622" LastEditDate="2017-11-21T08:43:40.130" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T17:28:49.403" Title="How dangerous is Tempeh starter?" Tags="|fermenter|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22132" CreationDate="2017-11-21T08:40:17.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is definitely the temperature of the fermenting liquid. What you normally would do is fit a thermometer (like a crystal thermometer) against the side of the fermentor. Then you have a good view of the temperature of the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T08:40:17.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22134" CreationDate="2017-11-21T13:04:06.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people develop an allergy to the fungi in the tempeh and the fungus was suspected of being causative of Zygomycosis. IIRC that may now have been disproved and Rhizopus is generally considered safe in food stuffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T13:04:06.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22130" CreationDate="2017-11-21T13:08:55.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually not. If the fermentation was aerobic it is usually OK if it tastes good enough to drink. If the fermentation was anaerobic the fermentation is usually good if carried out in suitably acidic conditions - to prevent C.Botulinum developing. Anaerobic but not acidic conditions can be the source of pathgenic organisms or their toxins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T13:08:55.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="68" CreationDate="2017-11-21T14:25:01.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Secondary fermentation is a term that came over from wine making. Secondary fermentation in the wine world is where you have the malolactic fermentation happen. This is a bacteria not yeast and it reduces the malic (green apple) acids to lactic acids soften the wine. This usually is done in barrel storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T14:25:01.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22132" CreationDate="2017-11-22T03:36:34.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are referring to the temperature of the yeast in the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setups and equipment vary so much that the ambient temperature isn't a good indicator. Brewers often cool or heat a fermentation vessel to achieve the right temperature inside for the active yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooling solutions range from a cooler basement, to standing water plus a fan (&quot;swamp cooler&quot;) to very expensive high-tech products. Heating solutions often involve some sort of electric heating pad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether heating or cooling a fermentor, good insulation is helpful because rapid temperature swings are bad for yeast in addition to out of the ideal range temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14719" LastEditorUserId="14719" LastEditDate="2017-11-22T03:43:41.127" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T03:43:41.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22132" CreationDate="2017-11-22T04:23:28.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jumping off from some of the comments already posted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think to make sense of this it helps to realize that, for those brewers who produce most of the beer in the world and who are probably the most significant portion of these yeast manufacturers' business (that is, commercial brewers), the ambient temperature is, for the most part, basically irrelevant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, consider the fact that many big breweries ferment in &lt;a href=&quot;http://brilliantstream.com/2016/09/new-belgium-asheville-public-tours/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;massive outdoor tanks&lt;/a&gt;. If you left what was going on inside (fermentation) open to the influence of the ambient conditions it would be nearly impossible to create beer consistently (and breweries don't get as large as you have to be to use such tanks by making inconsistent beers). So the tanks are obviously insulated from the outside conditions. But then of course, you need a way to remove the substantial waste heat of fermentation which would otherwise now be trapped by the same insulation, so the tanks (and their contents) are cooled mechanically. You can kind of see then, that in this situation, the measurement of interest is &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; going to be the temperature of the fermenting beer inside the tank, not that of the conditions outside the tank, conditions which (&lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt;) have very little, if any influence on the process going on within.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course on the home scale, while many strive to match the consistent quality of commercial breweries, we are limited, by cost, space or what have you, in what equipment we have. But, regardless of what we use, the quality of the resulting beer is determined by the particular variables that any given batch experiences while in process. That is, the beer produced will be influenced by the temperature &lt;em&gt;because&lt;/em&gt; yeast (which behave quite differently at different temperatures) experiences the same conditions as the liquid in which it's suspended. Certainly the ambient temperature will, in the absence of insulation, cooling, temperature measurement and control devices have a dramatic effect on said liquid temperature, but this ambient temperature is not a process variable in itself, it merely &lt;em&gt;influences&lt;/em&gt; another variable (fermentation temperature). If you are limited to only being able to control ambient conditions (and not actual fermentation temperature) you really do have to accept that you're not actually controlling a variable relevant to the outcome, you're controlling a variable &lt;em&gt;which influences&lt;/em&gt; a variable that is relevant to the outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand why you are eager for a &lt;em&gt;cited&lt;/em&gt; reference regarding your question (and perhaps somewhere out there an authority might actually make the distinction) but it all seems much more basic and fundamental than that to me. Think of it this way: if you're making a roast and you want it to be medium-rare, you don't stick the thermometer in the oven to find out if it's done, you stick it in the roast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T04:23:28.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22115" CreationDate="2017-11-22T11:40:37.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends where your cider came from. Apple peels, like most fruit, have wild yeast. If you pressed or juiced it from the fruit you would have likely introduced this yeast which would make it ferment. If it has been exposed to open air for a prolonged period of time it would have also likely been exposed to yeasts and bacterias in the breeze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd have a smell and take a sip. If it smells and tastes alright then you should be fine. I've had apple juice that has spontaneously fermented from wild yeasts before, although the quality is pretty varied. There are cider recipes that still call for wild yeasts so you're not the first person to try it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15650" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T11:40:37.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22145" CreationDate="2017-11-22T12:00:23.920" Score="6" ViewCount="2694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using S05 to make a porter/stout (let's not have that discussion), one of the things is that the ambiant temperature in my house is quite high (28 degrees celcius), I can cool it down for a few days while fermenting to 20-25 using (expensive) airconditioning. I was just wondering when is it safe to increase the temperature back to 28 degrees without creating too many esters? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T11:26:53.400" Title="Safale S05 when is it safe to increase temperature" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22144" CreationDate="2017-11-22T13:25:47.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that Fermentis lists the maximum fermentation temperature for US-05 as 18-28°C, you should be fine as long as the fermenting beer doesn't go too far outside of that range. During the first ca. 2-3 days, the yeast metabolism is quite exothermic but how much this affects the temperature of the fermenting wort depends on many factors, not the least of which is fermenter size. From my personal experince with US-05 in 12l and in 32l fermenters, I would estimate about +5°C in the first 2-3 days.&#xA;A neat trick that I have seen with a few homebrewers in warmer climates is to wrap the fermenters in light blankets (or old tshirts) and use evaporative cooling by periodically wetting the fabric. Alternatively, the entire fermenter can be put in a water bath with the blanket being in constant contact with the water so that capillary force keeps the blanket moist at all times. With the aid of a fan blowing on the wet fabric, the heat of fermentation should easily be cancelled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T13:25:47.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4478" CreationDate="2017-11-22T14:16:03.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Youngs Super Wine yeast is superb (I don't work for them by the way). The taste is amazing, but you have to be careful to &quot;proof&quot; bottles after bottling. Check after 12-24 hours. They will explode if left for 2 days or so. (Read online about exploding Ikea flip top lids in ginger beer making).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if bought in 60g compound, refrigerate after first use. If you leave in cool cupboard it will die. You can get up to 10 years out of the compound if refrigerated. Use a heaped teaspoon (7g) and make a &quot;ginger beer plant&quot; for 2 weeks with it. Or if you have a plant that is weeks or years old, just feed it for 1 week before adding the water, sugar, ginger and lemons (I'm using the Avoca recipe, and Irish recipes although we don't have a history of good cooking are out of this world!!!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is halfway between the fiery ginger beer and incredibly fiery ginger beer that Marks &amp;amp; Spencer (English food shop) used to produce. If you have never tasted these then you don't know what I'm talking about. But M&amp;amp;S are dumb and have now started making a sugar free ginger beer that is disgusting and full of dangerous chemicals for children, so don't even taste their sugar free version to get an idea of what it might taste like. The taste is similar to Old Jamaican Ginger Beer except stronger and better and gives you a warm feeling in your belly! (I kid you not)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15652" LastEditorUserId="15652" LastEditDate="2017-11-24T10:34:36.677" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T10:34:36.677" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22144" CreationDate="2017-11-22T15:17:00.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's many ways to keep cool I think all of them have been discussed here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as your question. &lt;strong&gt;Once you're past the growth phase especially and high krausen to be safe&lt;/strong&gt; a little more heat generally isn't to bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trick is to do a very large yeast pitch to basically skip most of the growth phase where most esters are generated.  This can be done with a multi-step starter or pitching the entire trub from a compatible batch. When doing this the yeast go right to feeding and warmer temps is less of a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T15:17:00.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22151" CreationDate="2017-11-22T15:26:09.060" Score="0" ViewCount="740" Body="&lt;p&gt;After fermentation, I put priming sugar and put them to bottles and wait for 7-10 days in bottle. I open somt They look OK, good foam and carbonation. No fancy smell or off-taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I put them in fridge for 1-2-3 days (unopened bottles), no matter what after fridging I lose the foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before putting fridge I have foam, and if i put some sugar just testing, the bottle fills with more foam. But after fridging, if I put sugar nothing changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ale, Lager does not matter, always same thing. Why I get stale beers out of the fridge? The temperature of fridge is &lt;strong&gt;4 Celcius&lt;/strong&gt;, and has a fluroescent lamp that lights up when the door is open. Should I fridge? If so how long?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14496" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T23:01:54.383" Title="Foam is gone after fridging, Should not I fridge?" Tags="|bottling|cooling|refrigerator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22148" CreationDate="2017-11-22T15:35:59.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your beer really is stale, that would mean that you have a problem with the caps on your bottles because of the low temperature, and that somehow your CO2 escapes and oxygen enters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, at lower temperatures, more CO2 dissolves in your beer. If you keep your beer really at 4° C, that is very low. My experience is that keeping a beer for a couple of days at a low temperature does not give a good head, because not much CO2 is available. However, putting it a couple of hours at a temperature of 8-12° C improves this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T15:35:59.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22144" CreationDate="2017-11-22T16:50:41.873" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to keep the temp lower for the first 4-5 days.  That's when the majority of esters are formed.  After that, it's not only OK but preferable, to let the temp rise.  If you need to keep it cooler, you can put the fermenter in a tub of water and add ice or ice packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-11-23T11:26:53.400" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T11:26:53.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22148" CreationDate="2017-11-23T11:34:51.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt this is a case of &quot;stale beer&quot; - I suppose it is just not very carbonated for service at a cold temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The metal cap of a beer bottle tends to shrink faster than the glass so the cap becomes more firmly attached as the temp drops. It is possible that the cap is badly fitted and that may affect gas tightness, but this is rare. Crown corks are used because they tend to work. ! or 2 failures maybe, but the lot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More probable is the fact that CO2 dissolves more in cold liquids and so the head pressure and the foam may reduce in cold beer. Also the gas stays in solution in cold beer when poured. On the plus side the beer usually remains &quot;fizzy&quot; to the taste for longer. If you want more foam add a foaming addition (dextrine malt or even malto-dextrine for example) to the brew and/or add slightly more priming sugar when bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T11:34:51.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22153" CreationDate="2017-11-23T18:29:37.597" Score="2" ViewCount="661" Body="&lt;p&gt;What specific steps do I have to follow to produce crystal clear homebrew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15641" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T18:58:33.500" Title="Producing crystal clear homebrew?" Tags="|cloudy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22152" CreationDate="2017-11-23T18:58:33.500" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Use lower protein malt&lt;/strong&gt; - Lower protein malts make less haze since the haze is caused by proteins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Use Whirlfloc tablets&lt;/strong&gt; - Whirlfloc tablets are a blend of Irish Moss and purified Kappa carrageenan that encourages the precipitation of haze causing materials such as proteins and Beta glucans. Add for the final 5 minutes of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Cool your Wort Quickly&lt;/strong&gt; - Use an immersion or counter-flow chiller to cool your beer as quickly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. Choose a Yeast High in Flocculation&lt;/strong&gt; - Flocculation is defined simply as the rate at which a particular yeast strain will fall out of the beer once fermentation is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5. Cold Crash your beer&lt;/strong&gt; - This helps to coagulate proteins and make other solids fall quickly to the bottom of your secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6. Use Gelatin before you keg or bottl&lt;/strong&gt;e - Gelatin or other fining agents will dramatically assist in giving you a clearer beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7. Lager your beer&lt;/strong&gt; - Storing your beer for a long time in cold conditions will make most haze settle to the bottom of your keg or bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;8. Use a filter&lt;/strong&gt; - when all else fails, the best way to get a clear beer is to use a filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T18:58:33.500" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22148" CreationDate="2017-11-23T21:55:00.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am with barking.pete and chthon on this but would go even further in assuming that something with the carbonation process itself is off. In my (for obvious reasons limited) experience of opening warm beer bottles, there should be much more than just foam and some carbonation if you open a well carbonated homebrew at room temperature. So I assume that the CO2 content of your beer is already too low before it goes into the fridge. As barking.pete and chthon have both pointed out, lower temperatures mean much higher CO2 in solution, if you look at the numbers for a fairly standard carbonation of 4.5g/l, the overpressure in the bottle is 1.74bar at 20°C, whereas after a period of time at 7°C this goes down to only 0.8bar. If you are unsure about the carbonation of your beers, I suggest you invest in a bottle pressure gauge. I use one on any beer I bottle carbonate to check carbonation progress and as an early warning system against bottle bombs.&#xA;To entertain my curiosity, how much sugar do you add to your bottles and what temperature do you ferment your beer at prior to bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;//late edit: Another source of issues could be the amount of headspace. If there is too little space above the beer, not enough CO2 volume is present to be dissolved into the beer at lower temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastEditorUserId="13715" LastEditDate="2017-11-23T23:01:54.383" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T23:01:54.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15480" CreationDate="2017-11-24T10:40:08.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I leave mine in the shed for weeks and it can get very cold and then the temperature goes back up. Its fine once your bottles were very clean before bottling. Any type of mold is what you need to avoid in the brewing process. If you were making elderflower champagne you'd be leaving it for 2-3 months, so what you are doing should be fine since the process is very similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15652" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T10:40:08.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17086" CreationDate="2017-11-24T10:49:50.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think the easy way to solve the issue is to use a demi-john or some container to build pressure and store the bottles back into the liquid for one week only. That gives the carbonation. use super wine yeast since you want it to bubble like crazy to get the carbonation, but only for one week until the bubbler is at a rate of one bubble every 3 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next bottle it, to stop it turning to alcohol you need to proof the bottles and when really fizzy I think you are going to have to rebottle once to remove the little bit of sediment sludge in the end of the bottle. Then it won't explode if kept at 6 degrees celsius and it won't ferment any more. Basically you just make the yeast dormant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the muslims in my workplace and my kids drink mine. Unfortunately I can't give you the recipe. One day you will probably see &quot;Kennys Ginger Beer&quot; in the shops! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've given you enough information above to explain how to slow everything down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15652" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T10:49:50.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22158" CreationDate="2017-11-24T15:06:08.200" Score="1" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been brewing &amp;amp; bottling for almost 5 years and never stumbled upon this.  This year's Christmas beer is going in 22 oz bottles. Do I use the same amount of priming sugar for the batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="3453" LastEditDate="2017-11-24T15:26:44.913" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T15:26:44.913" Title="Same priming sugar when using larger bottles?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22157" CreationDate="2017-11-24T15:22:11.403" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the same amount of priming sugar, in the batch, and I use a mix of bottles. 12oz and 32oz. and they carbonate the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you are adding sugar to individual bottles, then the amount would be different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so the answer is Yes, for priming the batch, &#xA;No if you add to each bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T15:22:11.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-25T06:02:19.457" Score="2" ViewCount="1590" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've been experimenting with sugar washes and Fleishmann's active dry yeast which comes in little square packages. When you open the package and look in, the yeast is in the form of a powder of nearly spherical nodules. I'm sure since yeast are microscopic, then each of these nodules must contain hundreds of thousands if not millions or billions of the fungal spores. And since I know yeast reproduce exponentially the proof should just need enough of the nodules to ensure there is a low probability that all the yeast in a given nodule is dead or something, and enough time for the exponential function to take the starting population to the desired population. So my theory is that if the yeast double every two hours, and I pitch half a package, then I should see the same activity after 2 h, 15 min as I saw after 15 min of pitching the whole package. Or if I pitch 1/4096'th of the package and come back one day later (because 24 hours is like 12 doubling periods so 2^12=4096) then again assuming the small amount of the dry yeast was alive you'd see the same amount of life right?? The only experiments I've done with this is to put smaller and smaller amounts of the package into the starting 1/4'th of a cup of warm sugar water, and the less you put the less it does, and after a few hours if I didn't put enough then I give up and add the rest of the active dry yeast powder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15655" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T16:38:19.813" Title="What's the minimum amount of active dry yeast to start a ferment?" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-25T14:49:45.287" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made many great stouts in the past, but blondes seem more difficult to get right.  I looked on the web for an all-grain Canadian Blonde recipe (basic blonde similar to a Budweiser).  I found a few recipes with similar ingredients, so I tried a small 4L batch trial:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;660g pale malt 2-row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;165g munich malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50g crystal 40L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40g Carapils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6g Cascade hops 60 min.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4g Hallertau 10 min.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safale american US-05 yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash at 67°C for 70 min. The result is too watery, too light, it needs more malt flavor, hops seems okay.  People post such flawed recipes on the web, good thing it was only a 4L trial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking to replace all the 2-row with Munich malt... What are your suggestions to increase that missing malty flavor?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T15:39:11.070" Title="Help me improve my Canadian Blonde recipe" Tags="|beer|all-grain|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22160" CreationDate="2017-11-25T15:01:15.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO the problem is the amount of base malt - for that amount I would be tempted to use nearer 1Kg of pale malt. The rest looks &quot;reasonable&quot; although using a subtle noble hop like Hallertau with Cascade might be a contradiction. one might prefer to consider using something like Saaz or Tettnager for the light hop lager taste. Cascasde will give the brew a more hoppy &quot;craft beer&quot; taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing all the pale malt with Munich malt should increase the malt flavour but also give a more &quot;Oktoberfest&quot; flavour than a light beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T15:01:15.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22159" CreationDate="2017-11-25T15:12:13.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Proper pitch amounts are well documented. What effects the amount you need is the OG and volume of the wort. Most dry yeast packs are a proper pitch for 5 gallons of 1.040 OG wort. Each dry pack has about 200 billion cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes you can grow a lot of yeast from very little&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;em&gt;As to your question: All that's needed is a single cell. That would be the minimum &quot;needed&quot;.&lt;/em&gt; &#xA;But pitching very little yeast in a batch of you want to ferment as a drinkable product will have a lot of bad side effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is much much more to this topic. Here's a couple things for you to reasearch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast pitch calculators.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast slants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast starters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Underpitching yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast growth phase esters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multi-step yeast starters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast life cycle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-11-25T15:17:31.750" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T15:17:31.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22159" CreationDate="2017-11-25T15:14:27.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is really not as easy as you describe it. Yeast does not have a single phase where it only consumes sugar and produces CO2 and alcohol, and grows indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you pitch it in a wash (or wort, or anything containing sugar), it will use up dissolved oxygen to grow, and depending upon other factors you will get exponential/large growth. However, once this oxygen is used up, the yeast will still grow, but much slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way that you can double yeast every couple of hours is by building a yeast starter, and oxygenating it using a stir plate. However, even then there is a limit to its growth. That is why to build a really big starter, the yeast will be grown in several phases, where in every phase a bigger amount of wort (in case of beer starters) is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2017-11-25T15:23:01.587" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T15:23:01.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22160" CreationDate="2017-11-25T15:31:27.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That recipe looks good for the style.  (1.054 OG) Though is a about 3 srm 30% too dark for the style. Making it a pale. Maybe drop out the crystal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think the main issue is the mash temp&lt;/strong&gt; favors too much beta-amylase producing more fermentable sugars and thining out the beer. Raise mash temp to 68-69°C / 154-156°F to favor alpha-amylase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your FG was below 1.013 then your mash temp and active enzymes were the issue of the thin character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Budweiser is an American lager, nothing like any Blonde ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-11-25T15:39:11.070" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T15:39:11.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22159" CreationDate="2017-11-25T15:48:49.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spray dried yeast is what the spherical nodules are composed of. Brewers yeast has lost the ability to form spores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast population do grow rapidly in the &lt;em&gt;log phase&lt;/em&gt; of yeast growth. That is usually preceded by a &lt;em&gt;lag phase&lt;/em&gt; immediately after pitching, where the yeast seems to be less active or even dormant. After some time (usually &amp;lt; 1 day) in the lag phase the yeast enters the log phase, where it can be observed to be rapidly budding. So the exponential growth does not always start on pitching the yeast in the wort/starter. The shortest lag phase and  time to first budding can be obtained using larger pitches of yeast comprising the youngest parent cells. When the yeast has multiplied and is beginning to substantially reduce the nutrients in the wort it begins to enter a &lt;em&gt;stable phase&lt;/em&gt; and yeast growth is reduced considerably, it certainly does not exhibit continuously exponential growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strategy of adding a very small amount of yeast to a full brew is &quot;not optimal&quot;. It can be done of course but the results may be more variable than desired. If the idea is to grow yeast on a to make several brews from an expensive yeast packet - then that might best be done in a small (say 1L) starter brew. When it has been fermenting for a day, it can be pitched - or split and one part pitched and the other part grown on. Yeast is generally cheap enough for home brewers that using a new packet every time is a viable and economic procedure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is best to pitch a &quot;full volume&quot; of yeast and get it fermenting in the wort as soon as is practically possible. A good guide is to use about 10g of dried yeast per 24L of wort. IMHO it is best to re-hydrate the yeast before adding it. The main problem with under pitching is that while the yeast is growing to full volume - other microbes can grow too.  Yeast at full volume can metabolise wort sufficiently rapidly to inhibit other microbes. The alcohol produced is also a good bacterial inhibitor and beer stabiliser. It is a useful brewing objective to get the wort alcoholic and under a layer of CO2 as soon as is practically feasible. That generally isn't done by under pitching the amount of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T15:48:49.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22168" CreationDate="2017-11-25T17:20:26.637" Score="1" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;5.25 g all grain HIGH gravity (1.106)DIPA brewed yesterday, pitched 2 rehydrated US 05 packets about after I cooled to 60 degrees F, then aerated with pump for 30 minutes. I’ve had lags before when rehydrating, but never this long. At 22 hours, wort temp was 66 degrees (ambient) but with no activity still. I hit it with more oxygen, and am just waiting. Just need someone to tell me everything will be fine...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13348" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T22:38:00.367" Title="Fermentation lag-been almost 24 hours?" Tags="|all-grain|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22167" CreationDate="2017-11-25T22:38:00.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a very high OG and pretty cool to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its actually about only 50% of the pitch it needed for that OG.  Your growth phase will be longer, I would add two more packs of yeast and raise temp to 68° and hold it there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it should take off within the next 48 hours if nothing is done. But you may get some growth esters you done want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T22:38:00.367" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22171" CreationDate="2017-11-26T10:40:09.417" Score="1" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a recipe for IPA which says to insert Amarillo hops 5-6 days before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is how the hops need to be inserted - can I just drop them into the container and stir, or should I boil them beforehand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My worries are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That the hops are not sterile and may contaminate the container with bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That they won't pass the flavor if they will just sink to the bottom of the container.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15662" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T16:26:39.077" Title="Inserting Amarillo hops after fermentation" Tags="|hops|ipa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22169" CreationDate="2017-11-26T13:29:42.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I can tell from personal observation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when you add pellet hops they will float, but they will absorb wort and sink after some time. In the meantime they will give off their aromas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hops will either float or sink. When you rack into your bottling bucket, you will not rack sunk hops into it, floating hops will be minimal, and there really are no hops which float in between.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hops are mostly sterile by themselves, but pellet hops are safer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaf hops will absorb more wort than pellets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more practical information, which is also very contradictory sometimes: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/dry-hopping-with-whole-leaf-hops.156612/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dry hopping with leaf hops&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is another one to calm your concerns about contamination: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.winning-homebrew.com/dry-hopping.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dry hopping&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T13:29:42.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22169" CreationDate="2017-11-26T16:26:39.077" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What they're referring to is a process called &quot;dry hopping&quot;, which is used to promote hop aroma and flavor in the beer.  It's very common and has been in use for hundreds of years.  You don't need to worry about contamination from the hops for several reasons...first, hops were originally used for their antibacterial properties.  Second, after fermentation the beer has alcohol and a low pH, both of which protect it from contamination.  Actually, you want the hops to sink.  They'll impart flavor and aroma even of they don't, but it will be more pronounced if they sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T16:26:39.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22159" CreationDate="2017-11-26T16:38:19.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There actually &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a minimum amount you can pitch while still achieving sufficient attenuation. What it all comes down to is &lt;strong&gt;lipids&lt;/strong&gt;, certain types of which are critical for yeast growth. Without enough, yeast can't create new cell membranes and therefore cannot reproduce and grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without going into too much detail, it goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The initial yeast pitch will either already contain (in the case of oxidatively grown dry yeast), or will synthesize (in the case of liquid yeast or repitched slurries), a &lt;strong&gt;fixed&lt;/strong&gt; amount of the needed lipids. Synthesis requires addition of dissolved oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Upon cell division the available lipids are divided between mother and daughter cell. This continues on as long as the yeast sense the available lipids are sufficient for another round of division. In essence, each round of division will &lt;strong&gt;halve&lt;/strong&gt; the amount of lipid left in the total yeast culture. So, as there is an exponential increase in cell number, there is also an exponential &lt;em&gt;decrease&lt;/em&gt; in the lipid pool.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As soon as the yeast sense there is insufficient lipid for another round of division, yeast growth (i.e. the increase in the &lt;em&gt;number&lt;/em&gt; of cells) will cease. This happens &lt;em&gt;regardless&lt;/em&gt; of whether all other nutrients are still sufficient. At this point, yeast begin preparation for a hibernation phase. If this happens before the required attenuation is reached, you've got what's called a &lt;strong&gt;stuck or hung fermentation&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In your specific case, the maximum possible cell count is going to be limited by the amount of lipids contained in or synthesized by a &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; small initial amount of yeast. Unless you oxygenate further, the available lipids will rapidly be diluted to the limiting point. Basically the smaller the initial pitch, the smaller the initial lipid pool, and thus the lower the terminal cell count possible. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your general understanding of logarithmic growth seems accurate, but assumes unlimited supplies of all critical nutrients, which is not the case. When using pitching rates (1-2 million cells per mL per degree Plato) and oxygenation rates (~10 ppm) typical in brewing, there are generally &lt;strong&gt;no more than 4 doublings&lt;/strong&gt; of the yeast. Therefore I'd expect that, regardless of how much you pitch, you shouldn't expect to see more doublings than this, not at least without adding more oxygen. I won't bother to guess at the minimum amount of dry yeast needed in your situation as this will depend on so many things, but I hope this gives you an idea of the reasons behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T16:38:19.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22174" CreationDate="2017-11-27T01:47:09.710" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;On other stack exchange forums, there are meta forums to hash out goals, methods and moderator guidelines. Does HBSE have the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-11-02T17:04:10.787" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T17:04:10.787" Title="Is there a meta version of this site?" Tags="|brewing|meta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22173" CreationDate="2017-11-27T06:26:40.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.meta.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;Yes, it is here&lt;/a&gt;, and it seems to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T06:26:40.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2017-11-27T17:21:09.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing special about a flask in regard to yeast starters.  Yes, t=you can boil in one, but after doing that for a while I found it more hassle than it's worth.  When I used to use a stir plate, I used a gal. glass jug on it.  Much less expensive for more volume.  Now that I've gone to the SNS method for starters, I find the increased volume of the jug even more useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T17:21:09.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-28T00:33:54.107" Score="0" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example how could you identify toxins in the simplest manner? I've got a few ideas such as microscopes and spectrometers. A microscope could be used to look at the morphological structure of what is growing in the batch, and if it looks like yeast it's more likely to be yeast, but short of sequencing the dna, how can you make sure there isn't some yeast impostor that looks and behaves similar to yeast but is actually producing some toxins? So I thought one could use spectrometers to measure the chemicals in the batch, and on the face of it I am thinking this is simpler than both dna sequencing and microscopic analysis. Even simpler one could measure the gravity of the solution and if you put sugar in and something is eating it up producing characteristic smells and moving the gravity towards that of water, it is more likely to be yeast. But I've read horror stories of people becoming paralyzed and even stopping breathing because botulinum toxin for example can be made along side the ethanol by bacteria who don't mind the yeast. So how do I not kill myself with out spending a fortune on equipment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15655" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T13:51:14.430" Title="What lab equipment could be used to effectively ensure a quality home brew?" Tags="|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-28T03:05:04.540" Score="1" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recipe calls for a 4 to 5 week secondary fermentation, which falls on Christmas when I will not be around.  It also calls for pitching additional yeast 3 days before kegging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I keg the beer at 3 weeks or go to almost 6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15676" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-05T00:09:35.153" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T00:11:09.890" Title="Fermentation length for La Fin Du Monde clone" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|secondary|clone-recipe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-28T05:47:19.670" Score="4" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will try brewing NEIPA for the first time. The the grain bill is very simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Volume 5.5 gallons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 kg. Maris Otter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 kg. Rolled oats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 packs of Safale S-04&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 g. Cascade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 g. Mosaic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50 g. Ahtanum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50 g. Simcoe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;150 g. Citra&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for fresh citrusy profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hop schedule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First wort : 20 g Cascade/&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whirlpool Stepping under 80 c for 20 min.:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25 g. Ahtanum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25 g. Citra&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25 g. Mosaic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High Krausen:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25 g. Ahtanum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25 g. Mosaic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;35 g. Citra&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry hop for 7 days: &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;35 g. Cascade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 g. Simcoe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40 g. Citra.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this hop combination look good or would you change something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15270" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-05T00:33:32.067" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T00:33:32.067" Title="Hop blend for NEIPA" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22176" CreationDate="2017-11-28T07:28:34.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, for starters, if it was so easy to grow toxic organisms alongside yeast, then humanity would probably already been wiped out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Microscopes are used in brewing, but mostly only for counting yeast cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And about using a mass spectroscope to test your batch, I hope you do realize that this kind of equipment is at most 150 years old, and that humanity has been brewing at least 6000 years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, think about this: if humans without technology were able to brew without poisoning everybody, without the presence of advanced lab equipment, why should you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a good brewer is actually about &quot;handling with care&quot;, and handling with care is cleaning your equipment and sanitizing it at the right moment, and try to make sure that you try to have the least possible oxygen ingress (not for harmful organisms, but against oxidation). The only lab materials you really need are a thermometer and a hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now about the risk on botulism: &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/botulism/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; shows that the risk is really due to not handling with care, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/?s=botulism&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is some more background information&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between &quot;handling with care&quot; and lab equipment is, when you handle with care, you will prevent contamination. With lab equipment, you could possibly detect contamination (but you will probably do that with sight, smell and (possibly) taste too), but then it is already too late. Your precious work is spoiled, and no amount of lab equipment will help you to save it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T07:28:34.180" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22177" CreationDate="2017-11-28T13:37:31.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is your OG and projected FG, also how much yeast did you pitch? I find that high gravity beers at or above 1E6 cells/(ml*degree plato) can finish fairly fast given the right temperatures. If you are worried about overpressure in your keg after only three weeks of fermentation - as I would be with bottles - you can always build or buy a spunding valve [1]. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, most people nowadays skip secondary fermentation, especially when kegging. There has been limited to no evidence of benefits of separating yeast from beer for a secondary fermentation on a homebrewer scale. One of Marschall Scott's early xbmts was on this if you want a read [2]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/aging/item/397-build-your-own-spunding-valve-to-carbonate-in-the-keg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/aging/item/397-build-your-own-spunding-valve-to-carbonate-in-the-keg&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2014/08/12/primary-only-vs-transfer-to-secondary-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2014/08/12/primary-only-vs-transfer-to-secondary-exbeeriment-results/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T13:37:31.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22176" CreationDate="2017-11-28T13:51:14.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow! Its seems a lost knowledge that brewing was used to purify water - not make it unsafe to drink. There is absolutely no need for the average home brewer to set up a brew lab just to make &quot;safe&quot; beer or wine. Home brewing just does not have that requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic premise of fermentation is that if the system is anaerobic but acidic then it is generally OK. Beer wort is about pH 5 or lower. Brewed beer is about pH 3.5. Alcohol also acts as a antimicrobial. If the system is aerobic and acidic then it is usually OK - although it may smell strange! Vinegar is made in such a way. If the system is anaerobic and not acidic then the alarm bells should start ringing. Botulinum toxic is only produced in anaerobic and non-acidic conditions. In the US one of the main causes of Botulinum toxin in home made produce is preserving raw vegetables in oil - garlic is a good example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using clean (as it well washed and rinsed, then boiling water scalded immediately before use) equipment, tap water, malt, hops and yeast, one can brew beer very well - and safely. Using foot pressed grapes and clean equipment one can produce very reasonable wine without a campden tablet in sight. Home brewing to my knowledge has never harmed anyone, except when they get too drunk and suffer an accident. So unless the circumstances are quite unique, there really is no need to worry about poisoning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if one really wanted to set up a brew lab then one might read a suitable book (eg &quot;Yeast&quot; by C.White and J.Zainasheff) which at least gives a background to the process and details many procedures. A microscope (with micrometer platform) and some dyes for yeast viability testing might be a start. UV/IR spectroscopy is not all that useful unless one has a digital peak reference database. Chromatography is a better bet - both gas and liquid column work well enough to isolate and characterise compounds. But the full identification would need something like a Mass spec with elemental analysis - which might be expensive unless one has access to a analytical lab. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T13:51:14.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22178" CreationDate="2017-11-28T14:29:03.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a nice recipe for a  &quot;Juicy&quot; IPA.  Hops sound delicious. The oats and MO will make it like opaque blood orange juice when done right. (ruby orange). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T14:29:03.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22184" CreationDate="2017-11-28T17:22:21.413" Score="4" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into cheaper solutions then using a plate heat exchanger. A cheaper construction available that is basically just a pipe in a pipe with separate connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons using this type of cooler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NjAG1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NjAG1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of a counter flow chiller&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15680" LastEditorUserId="15680" LastEditDate="2017-11-29T09:22:10.420" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T09:22:10.420" Title="Is a counter flow chiller good for cooling wort?" Tags="|wort|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22183" CreationDate="2017-11-28T18:40:32.297" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a type of counter flow chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer should have some specs on it. Mainly what the heat exchange efficiency is at specific GPMs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example 100% eff at 1gpm wort and 1gpm coolant. Would mean the wort and coolant exit at the same temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All chillers of this type can get 100% efficiency but the flow may have to be so low it's not practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To say this is better than other options would need to factor cost and chill time you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you want a counter flow chiller that will allow all your batch to drop to pitch temp in 20 minutes or less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Counter flow chillers generally are used inline from kettle to the fermenter and chill from boiling to pitch temp (65°F) ale, 40-50 lagers. This can be a challenge to do in a single step. Most commercial systems use two Counter flow chillers inline. One with tap water knock down and the second using gycol. Then the wort flow rate is adjusted to get the disired temp when ground water temp varies day to day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary this paticular chiller looks like it would be a good 1st step knock down but &lt;em&gt;too short&lt;/em&gt; to chill the wort in one pass with out very slow wort flow and the use of a very cold coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-11-28T18:54:57.273" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T18:54:57.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22186" CreationDate="2017-11-28T18:59:28.857" Score="2" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to dry hop my very first IPA (without a bag) and I've read that when bottling I will need to put some kind of filtering cloth on the end of the racking cane to prevent hops sediment from getting into my bottles.&#xA;So I ended up buying a hop-bag in the local brew store and plan to tie it over the racking cane instead of actually dry-hopping in it. They claim that it's made of 'synthetic material' but I'm a bit concerned since it looks really thick. Could I possibly over-filter my beer with it? I mean in the way that I can lose some yeast needed for carbonation or even some flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if it sounds silly, I'm a newbie and a bit paranoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how the bag looks like, it feels like polyester or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JdUwV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JdUwV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here's how the bag looks like&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15560" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T23:28:47.290" Title="Can I over-filter my beer?" Tags="|bottling|first-time-brewer|dry-hop|filtering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22185" CreationDate="2017-11-28T19:57:18.207" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about the yeast getting through that bag, you have nothing to worry about. When we talk about sterile filtration, the generally accepted size of the filter is .45u (micron). 1000 microns = 1 millimeter. While the mesh on that bag is less than a millimeter, it's not even close to .45u. I don't think that most breweries even sterile filter beer. They probably filter at 5u just to clean up the appearance. Beer unlike wine, is pretty stable after fermentation so wine is more often sterile filtered. So go ahead and use it, but you probably just need something like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01JWO5RK2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bouncer&lt;/a&gt; for getting the big stuff out of your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T19:57:18.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-28T20:44:39.217" Score="5" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to explore sur-lies aging for a red wine (zinfandel) but am not always able to adhere to a strict schedule.  How tolerant are mixing schedules to time changes?  What kind of schedule is common for red wine?  One per month for 8 months?  Do I risk too much oxygen exposure during each mix?  I'm trying to naturally achieve the effect of an additive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-04-28T18:35:58.053" LastActivityDate="2018-04-28T18:35:58.053" Title="Typical Sur-Lies Aging Mixing Schedule for Red Wine" Tags="|red-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22188" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-28T20:47:22.183" Score="3" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to re-suspend yeast and generally keep a brew uniformly mixed in a carboy without having to open it and expose it to oxygen every time.  Is there a hobbist-priced magnetic stirrer that works for this kind of application?  Right now, I'm thinking about the long-term aging process of a red wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a quick test I found that the dome of the carboy makes it a little hard for the stirrer.  Most chemistry mixing flasks have flat bottoms it seems for this reason.  The magnetic field from the external mixing plate is also weaker at the top of the dome (farther away).  I'm fine if one side of the carboy is mixed more than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T12:20:55.697" Title="Carboy-sized Magnetic Stirring" Tags="|red-wine|stir-plate|lees|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22188" CreationDate="2017-11-28T23:14:22.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes you can&lt;/strong&gt;. I've fermented apple wine this way on a DIY stirplate, 1 inch magnet, and a vintage arrowhead carboy (flat bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wasn't powerful enough to make a deep cone for oxygenating which actually worked nice as I just wanted to deny the yeast the option to flocculate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My stirplate uses an old SCSI external 5.25 tape drive, so it's platform is about 12x12inches. With a 6 inch fan for the magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I've seen a stir plate successfully used on stainless 15.5g keg. It was used with a herms system for kettle souring. Many do use these kegs as fermentors too. Maybe an option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-11-29T12:20:55.697" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T12:20:55.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22185" CreationDate="2017-11-28T23:28:47.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Unless it's a cloudy style that relies on particulates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But putting that bag over your racking cane will probably just clog up and be a frustrating mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use finings and cold crash. Then use the racking cane as intended no to disturb the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T23:28:47.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18622" CreationDate="2017-11-28T23:49:11.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tesco Ashbeck is very low on all measures so can be built up. Its consistent too and quite cheap. There's a discussion on on using it as the base for different profiles here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midlandscraftbrewers.org.uk/download/i/mark_dl/u/4012490099/4609363392/Water%20Treatment%20Nottingham%202014.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.midlandscraftbrewers.org.uk/download/i/mark_dl/u/4012490099/4609363392/Water%20Treatment%20Nottingham%202014.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15689" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T23:49:11.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22198" CreationDate="2017-11-29T06:50:19.317" Score="3" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an avid brewer but have just finished fermenting my 1st muscadine wine. It has been fermenting for 6 months and has been racked once. Even though it's really clear I just added sparkaloid along with campden and potassium sorbate. I am planning to bottle within 2 weeks. Will the sparkaloid affect the campden and potassium sorbate? I added them to deactivate the yeast for back sweetening. I am hoping it won't cause the two to precipitate out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastEditorUserId="13027" LastEditDate="2017-11-29T12:24:56.317" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T23:32:35.233" Title="Back sweeten Wine Question" Tags="|wine|campden|potassium-sorbate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22195" CreationDate="2017-11-29T09:21:20.997" Score="3" ViewCount="743" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is of course beer recipes but what makes it different from a hop bill? Do you use a hop bill for all types of beers? What do you consider when making one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15680" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T13:03:03.430" Title="What is a hop bill?" Tags="|hops|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22194" CreationDate="2017-11-29T12:51:31.073" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term &quot;Bill&quot;: be it grain or hops is simply the list of that type of ingredient, weight and time or stage schedule and how it's applied to the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sample:&#xA;2oz Galaxy FWH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( weight, ingredient, added to kettle allowing the first wort of the sparge to mix with the hops, hops stay in for full duration of the boil)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes all beers have a grain and hop bill, technically. Even if each bill just has one ingedient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-11-29T13:03:03.430" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T13:03:03.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22199" CreationDate="2017-11-29T15:03:03.453" Score="2" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I oxidized my whole keg. I was attempting a closed transfer but the beer stopped going into the keg so I decided to change the tube but totally forgot about the air in the tube. So when I started to transfer again, bubbles went through the keg. I bled the keg many times right away but I'm not sure how much it helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you ever have such an experience?  How did it turn out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15270" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-05T00:51:19.043" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T22:03:00.307" Title="How badly did I oxidize my beer?" Tags="|kegging|racking|oxidation|closed-transfer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22196" CreationDate="2017-11-29T16:58:30.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't be a big problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T16:58:30.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22193" CreationDate="2017-11-29T18:38:32.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sparkaloid, acording to the SDS, is composed of, &quot;&lt;em&gt;natural diatomaceous earth - amorphous silica (CAS number 1344-95-2) , alginates&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. None of these really interact with sodium metabisulphite or potossium sorbate. There is some potential reaction between sodium bisulfite and alginates (but requiring presence of nitrites). Bisulfites can react with aldehydes in the wine and form a precipitate but the amount would not be very noticeable.  As both campden tablets and sorbates are reasonably soluble in water/wine and are only present in small quantities there would seem to be little chance of them precipitating because of the Sparkaloid addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One might wonder why, if the wine was really clear, Sparkaloid was used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T18:38:32.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22196" CreationDate="2017-11-29T18:45:31.933" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some brewers have a unwarranted paranoia about oxygen and beer. Relax. If there were literally a &quot;few bubbles&quot; in the keg then I very much doubt it will cause the beer to oxidise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer was not micro-filtered then remaining yeast in solution will use any dissolved oxygen quite quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T18:45:31.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22193" CreationDate="2017-11-29T23:32:35.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to truly &quot;deactivate&quot; the yeast is to sterile filter the wine to .45u (microns). That's right about 1/2 of a Micron. Otherwise, you will likely end up with a sparkling wine or a grenade that will explode when it gets warm outside. You can kill yeast using Mutage (a french word) by adding enough alcohol or heating up the wine to kill the yeast. Either is not preferable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T23:32:35.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22177" CreationDate="2017-12-01T14:21:12.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let it go the full 6 weeks. A little aging always improves the flavor unless you want hoppy hoppy hoppy IPA's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15567" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-05T00:11:06.000" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T00:11:06.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17620" CreationDate="2017-12-01T14:30:04.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're making a 5 gallon batch at projected ABV of 5 to 6%, then 1 packet of yeast is fine. If your making a beer stronger than 6%, pitch 2 packs. I've been using dry yeast packs for years and love the US-05. Brewdog333&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15567" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T14:30:04.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22224" CreationDate="2017-12-02T16:51:33.200" Score="3" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made ginger bug before and it makes really good sodas, etc, but how do you expand the bug? I've look all over online and they show how to start and maintain a bug but not how to expand it. I'm guessing that I just basically redo the start procedures with the remaining ginger bug, adding some more water, sugar, and ginger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15755" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T00:25:13.193" Title="Ginger Bug Expansion" Tags="|ginger-beer|ginger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22206" CreationDate="2017-12-03T12:45:27.200" Score="3" ViewCount="1485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a red wine from grapes, the way I did it is, I let the grapes in the wine for 15 days before taking them out in order to extract more colour and tannins and then I racked the wine off its lees after 3 days. Although I was aware of the issue of oxidation when wine is exposed to air, at the time of racking I did not pay attention to it well and so my racking had lot of wine splashing in the carboy.Reading about the issue of oxidation online, I am quite worried if my wine would go bad. however I am also confused, I read in the link posted below that oxidation would be helpful in the case of red wines but not white. So could someone please clarify this? Do I need to be very cautious when bottling and storing or is exposure to air a good thing? (In red wines).&#xA;The link as mentioned: &lt;a href=&quot;https://winemakermag.com/541-oxidation-as-partner-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://winemakermag.com/541-oxidation-as-partner-techniques&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15630" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T16:16:09.140" Title="Oxidation of red wine during racking and bottling" Tags="|fermentation|oxidation|red-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22205" CreationDate="2017-12-04T14:23:41.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The author of the article is reliable, Daniel Pambianchi has written books on homewinemaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid oxydation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be concerned about oxydation mainly after the completion of fermentation.  Also oxidation is less prone to occur if the quantity of SO2 (sulfites) is sufficient, adding campden tablets can help if you want to age your wine for a long time.  The most important thing in the article, in my opinion, is the 10 tips to avoid oxidation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer whites quickly to carboys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the pH to a level less prone to oxidation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use sulfite as required based on the wine’s pH level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top up carboys, barrels and tanks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack by gravity whenever possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid pumps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use closed systems for transferring wines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use ascorbic acid diligently&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store wine at a cool temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect your equipment regularly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Macroaeration&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the article mentions, is that a splash racking could help a red improve its fruit character.  I would recommend to perform this only in the first racking, when the fermentation is still strong, after that introducing oxygen is more risky.  Honestly, I do not think that it will make a big difference on the finished product, the origin and quality of the grapes is so much more important.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Microoxygenation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Daniel mentions that storing wine in a wood barrel is a form of microoxygenation.  We all know that is has been done for centuries (without being called Microoxygenation).  Not only the wine ages slowly (some air is slowly introduced) but it also takes some of the wood character, flavor and tannins.  The wine still needs to be bottled after months to stop the aging when you are satisfied with it, otherwise it will oxidize eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To answer the question&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not a big problem to introduce oxygen in early stages of fermenation (it will even help to start the fermentation).  But when storing, aging and bottling the wine, we need to be more careful.  My conclusion is that if you are making some good wine already and want to try to go a step up, you may try those techniques.  If you can, split your batch in two, and try these techniques in one batch and then compare the results.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-12-04T14:29:05.473" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T14:29:05.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22205" CreationDate="2017-12-04T16:16:09.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 20 years of winemaking experience, 15 years owning my own winery. Let me tell you what I did and what the vast majority of winemakers do. Very little. Use sulphites and maintain their levels based on pH of your wine. Keep your barrels topped up. Gently rack, but don't go overboard. Red wine, especially tannic ones, need some Oxygen to soften the tannins. Getting some oxygen in your wine during racking isn't going to do much. For a time I would fill my tanks with Nitrogen and my bottles too. Then I stopped because I couldn't tell a difference years later. Just keep an eye on your sulphites. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is one thing I could tell amateur winemakers is &lt;strong&gt;keep your sulfite levels up.&lt;/strong&gt; From post fermentation to bottling. Your wine will thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T16:16:09.140" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18622" CreationDate="2017-12-04T21:05:55.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have pretty hard water in our area, but I can normally get away with using both Camden to get rid of the chlorine and CRS to soften it, and that works for most of my purposes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If need properly soft water, then I do one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Tesco Ashbeck if I just want to get a small amount for, for example, making up some StarSan.  Looks to be about £1.10 for 5 litres at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want a large amount when I'm making a lager or similar, I go to our local Maidenhead Aquatics, who fill my 25 litre jerry can for (if memory serves) about £3.50, so this works out a bit cheaper than the Ashbeck.  I then add minerals to it based on a water treatment calculator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1661" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T21:05:55.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22209" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-05T01:14:43.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.com/articles/closed-transfer-system/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A closed transfer system&lt;/a&gt; is a method for transferring wort between vessels (e.g. between a fermentation vessel and a keg) while preventing oxygen from entering the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may involve the use of a CO2 tank to maintain the pressure lost due to the transfer of liquid, air filters, or special valves to help ensure that minimal oxygen is allowed to come in contact with the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T10:30:19.107" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T10:30:19.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22210" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-05T01:14:43.613" Score="0" Body="For questions about closed transfer systems and methods.  That is, transferring wort between vessels while actively limiting the intake of oxygen to the system." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-08T18:27:32.637" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T18:27:32.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22211" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-05T01:17:30.620" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-05T01:17:30.620" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T01:17:30.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22212" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-05T01:17:30.620" Score="0" Body="Barley is a key ingredient in the making of beer.  This tag is for questions regarding the processing of barley in preparation for its use in home brewing (e.g. malting)." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T10:30:58.400" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T10:30:58.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22213" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-05T01:21:49.550" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-05T01:21:49.550" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T01:21:49.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22214" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-05T01:21:49.550" Score="0" Body="The process by which a cell breaks itself down (i.e. self-digests).  In home brewing, this most often occurs after a very long fermentation and can be a cause of off-flavors." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T10:30:40.703" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T10:30:40.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22215" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-05T01:26:13.120" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-05T01:26:13.120" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T01:26:13.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22216" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-05T01:26:13.120" Score="0" Body="Starches, sugars, or other ingredients included in a recipe beyond the technically required ingredients, often added for their affect on the cost, body, flavor, or alcohol content of a beverage." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-05T19:54:49.483" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T19:54:49.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22218" CreationDate="2017-12-05T10:57:33.837" Score="1" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dry-hopped my beer and after a few days, the screw cap of the fermenter cracked. Now I can even smell my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WY6LZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WY6LZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry for the quality)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How bad is it? I'm going to bottle today...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPD&lt;/strong&gt;: I think it's been a few days since it cracked (I could smell it before but with no sign of crack). Not sure when it actually cracked since I was absent for a while :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15560" LastEditorUserId="15560" LastEditDate="2017-12-05T14:35:49.117" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T14:35:49.117" Title="Fermenter screw cap is cracked" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22217" CreationDate="2017-12-05T13:11:13.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No big deal if you bottle today. You would be very unlucky if your beer spoils with such a small crack for such little time.  You could even repair it temporarily with scotch or duct tape and it would be fine for a few days.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your next batch, get a new one if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T13:11:13.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22219" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-05T13:20:05.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To vorlauf is the action of running off some wort from your mash/lauter tun into a container (like a bag measuring cup or small bucket), then putting it back on top of the grain bed.  This allows the grain bed to be used as a filter and eventually the wort will start to come out clear. At that point the vorlauf is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-12-08T18:27:42.840" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T18:27:42.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22220" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-05T13:20:05.627" Score="0" Body="To vorlauf is the action of running off some wort from your mash/lauter tun into a container, then putting it back on top of the grain bed." OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2017-12-08T18:27:50.960" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T18:27:50.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-05T15:15:13.993" Score="3" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was doing a porter/stout with extract and also steeped milled smoked malt for a more smokey flavour as part of the process (steeped in warm water around mashing temperature for about 20 minutes before filtering out and adding it to the boil). (OG was 1.120) I fermented with Safale US-05.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally after boil finished I added vietnamese coffee. Also one of my bags of hop pellets broke and some of the pellet residue got into the primary fermenter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I tasted the beer and doesn't taste sweet, however the FG is now at 1.030. Wondering if this is stalled fermentation. Is it possible the beer is finished (based on my calculation the alcohol level should be 11.8% where Safale US-05 has max tolerance of 12%). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my beer finished fermenting or not (might be my OG and FG were higher due to the hop pellet residue and coffee?). I plan to leave it to climb from the 24 degrees it was fermenting at to 28 degrees?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T21:15:48.027" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T21:15:48.027" Title="Porter high OG with fermentation stopping at 1.030?" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22221" CreationDate="2017-12-05T15:56:31.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US-05 has an apparent attenuation between 73% and 77% (Fermentis data sheet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You start from an OG of 1.120&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And it is an extract beer (always more difficult to attenuate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would conclude that your fermentation is finished. The calculated attenuation is now 75% which is nice in the middle of the expected attenuation of the yeast. You could possibly nibble off some extra points with letting it rest and increasing the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T15:56:31.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22204" CreationDate="2017-12-05T20:22:24.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxygen! The growth medium must be oxygenated from time to time. If one uses tap water then minerals and trace elements are rarely a problem but available nitrogen may be. The ginger beer SCOBY is quite good at using the ground ginger to obtain most nutrients other than sugars but sometimes a bit of yeast/wine nutrient helps. Friends have added a shot glass of apple juice once a week others have actually grown the bug in dilute sweet apple juice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually add ginger and sugar, with a good shake/rousing, daily for (say) one week, leave it a few days for the ferment to subside and then decant the liquid from the ginger beer SCOBY and the ginger powder. The Demijohn I use is then refilled with tap water ensuring a lot of foam is produced to include oxygen in the solution. If done every week after a few months the SCOBY has usually increase (noticeably) in quantity/size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth using good organic (ground) ginger as perservatives may affect the SCOBY if present in any quantity. fresh/wet ginger can be used but it tends to float and can develop mould. I have seen boiled ginger mush being used (liquid filtered off into ginger beer brew)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Every so often&quot; - maybe once a month, I completely rinse the SCOBY from the build up of ginger powder. I tend to do that in a clean saucepan with a big but fine sieve. Pour the mix through the sieve into the saucepan then gently sway the sieve in the liquid so that the small grains stay in the sieve bu the ginger powder is washed through into the saucepan. After a while pour out the liquid from the pan and repeat the process with cold tap water. The point of using a sieve in a pan/bowl of water is that the gentle washing action keeps more fine SCOBY particles that can grow. If I just rinse the particles in a sieve under the tap then a lot of &quot;small stuff&quot; is lost. It is that small stuff that grows into the bigger white grains that are required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than keeping equipment clean and free from build up of stuff (ginger, sugar, etc) I find that little other sanitation is needed. IMHO ginger beer SCOBY can hold its own against most competitors. I have been growing mine for over 6 years and I find it amazingly resilient if maintained regularly. I regularly have to give the excess to friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO it is better to make up an &quot;inoculation mix&quot; with water/sugar/some ginger and leave it over the SCOBY for (say) 5 days in a demijohn. Then strain the liquid into bottles with whatever extra flavour/sugar or juice is required - rather than attempting to put the juice directly on the SCOBY. In such a way the SCOBY is kept in &quot;optimal/clean/stable&quot; conditions and the inoculation mix can make the natural soda as required by secondary fermentation in the bottle. Use PET bottles! I find that like wine natural sodas can really improve over time. They can be drunk after a few days but can improve greatly over a few months!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T10:22:19.967" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T10:22:19.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22225" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:43:34.403" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T21:43:34.403" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T21:43:34.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22226" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:43:34.403" Score="0" Body="For questions on the effects or recommendations for aging (long-term storage) homebrewed products." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T11:36:52.097" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T11:36:52.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22227" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:48:11.873" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T21:48:11.873" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T21:48:11.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22228" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:48:11.873" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to obtaining, explaining, or calculating a level of bitterness in homebrew." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T11:04:36.400" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T11:04:36.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22229" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:51:35.240" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T21:51:35.240" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T21:51:35.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22230" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:51:35.240" Score="0" Body="A small fermentation performed for the purpose of increasing the number and proving the viability of yeast cells for use in a later fermentation." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T11:04:13.773" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T11:04:13.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22231" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:53:14.123" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T21:53:14.123" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T21:53:14.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22232" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:53:14.123" Score="0" Body="A vessel used for containing the combined liquid and grain during a mash." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T11:36:28.773" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T11:36:28.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22233" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:54:19.063" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T21:54:19.063" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T21:54:19.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22234" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:54:19.063" Score="0" Body="A vessel used for containing and heating the wort during the boil phase of beer making." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T11:36:34.267" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T11:36:34.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22244" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:54:55.640" Score="2" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottled my beer yesterday and based on some research I decided to place it near heater to keep warm temps, I got the one for this specific reason. The thing is that the heater is pretty old and it has kinda active and inactive phases, the ambient temp (I put thermometer just behind my bottles) can go below 20C/68F in inactive phase and above 25C/77F in the active one. So the temperature can change by up to 5C/9F during one hour or so.&#xA;Can such temperature fluctuations do any harm to the carbonation process or beer flavor?&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15560" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T13:24:42.490" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T13:25:18.327" Title="Temperature fluctuations during carbonation/conditioning" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22236" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:55:10.107" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T21:55:10.107" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T21:55:10.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22237" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:55:10.107" Score="0" Body="A device used for cooling the hot wort following the boil or whirlpool phase of beer making in preparation for fermentation." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T11:36:12.043" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T11:36:12.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22238" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:57:49.440" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T21:57:49.440" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T21:57:49.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22239" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:57:49.440" Score="0" Body="Products added to homebrew in order to improve clarity by precipitating away proteins or other suspended matter." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-08T18:27:26.057" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T18:27:26.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22240" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-06T22:00:43.073" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T22:00:43.073" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T22:00:43.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22241" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-06T22:00:43.073" Score="0" Body="The process of quickly dropping the temperature of homebrew following fermentation to promote the flocculation and settling of yeast and other unwanted material." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T11:36:23.287" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T11:36:23.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22242" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-06T22:01:52.033" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T22:01:52.033" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T22:01:52.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22243" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-06T22:01:52.033" Score="0" Body="A foamy build-up of yeast and proteins formed on the surface of the brew during fermentation." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T11:07:09.033" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T11:07:09.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22235" CreationDate="2017-12-07T10:57:21.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO the minor fluctuations in temperature don't really affect the overall flavour because the beer has a thermal capacity to resist rapid temp changes. Gradual changes over half a day will affect it more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will probably affect conditioning most is the overall ambient temperature that the beer is stored in. Over 25C/77F is perhaps not the best temperature to condition beer. A stout or porter will probably condition reasonably well but a lighter ale or lager may develop a few more fruity flavours at temperatures over 20C/68F. YMMV. IMHO a good temperature to bottle condition beer is about 15C in a dark place over the course of &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; one month. Some copper coloured ales can taste better if conditioned nearer 20C as that may enhance the overall flavour profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If rapid carbonation is all that is required then 20C for 10-14 days usually works well. I prefer 15C/59F or thereabout for a longer time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length of time conditioning is usually as important a factor as temperature. Some beers that are not particularly pleasant after a month, are wonderful after 6 months conditioning. That is particularly true of strong, dark, hoppy ales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some use the word &lt;em&gt;conditioning&lt;/em&gt; to only mean achieving carbonation. I use it in the more expansive meaning of &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;reaching the correct condition&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; which takes some time. IMHO carbonation is only one part of that process. Others use the word &lt;em&gt;ageing&lt;/em&gt; for the temporal process after carbonation. Whatever...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T13:25:18.327" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T13:25:18.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22263" CreationDate="2017-12-07T14:23:48.370" Score="2" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the last three year I have brewed several beers, both light and dark, all-grain, and I fermented some of them with the same types of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that for my lighter beers, my calculations are always correct (I use Brewtarget), but that for porters and stouts I always get an attenuation that is about 10% to 15% lower than expected, even though the lesser yield of the dark and roasted malts is taken into account in the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I do not find any equivalent information or questions about this on the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any one ever encountered the same problem, and if so, do you then always take precautionary measures in the recipe and the brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I also brewed a beer that was a mix of a porter and a dubbel, and I did the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add yeast nutrient&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to aerate well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an active starter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it did work, but for me this is just a single data point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: I do not have any problems regarding pH or getting my correct OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2017-12-08T17:08:49.257" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T17:46:22.050" Title="Apparent attenuation of porters and stouts" Tags="|fermentation|mash|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22246" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-07T15:08:25.747" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T15:08:25.747" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T15:08:25.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22247" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-07T15:08:25.747" Score="0" Body="The process of adjusting or maintaining temperatures throughout fermentation." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T17:39:30.583" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T17:39:30.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22248" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-07T15:10:33.170" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T15:10:33.170" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T15:10:33.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22249" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-07T15:10:33.170" Score="0" Body="For questions related to warm fermentation of beer with yeast comfortable near room temperature (i.e. ale yeast)." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-08T18:27:21.430" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T18:27:21.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22250" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-07T15:14:13.227" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T15:14:13.227" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T15:14:13.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22251" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-07T15:14:13.227" Score="0" Body="For questions on obtaining, preparing, sanitizing, or using bottles for packaging homebrew." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T17:38:57.910" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T17:38:57.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22252" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-07T15:15:25.687" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T15:15:25.687" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T15:15:25.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22253" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-07T15:15:25.687" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to the measurement or prediction of gas pressure in homebrew (e.g. when kegging and force-carbonating)." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T16:23:00.060" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T16:23:00.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22254" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-07T15:16:37.030" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T15:16:37.030" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T15:16:37.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22255" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-07T15:16:37.030" Score="0" Body="The process of cooling hot wort after the boil or whirlpool phase of beer making." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T17:48:46.333" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T17:48:46.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22256" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-07T15:17:35.213" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T15:17:35.213" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T15:17:35.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22257" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-07T15:17:35.213" Score="0" Body="For questions about the use of honey in homebrew (e.g. mead, honey ale, cyser, bragott, etc.)" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T16:19:51.387" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T16:19:51.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22258" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-07T15:18:15.543" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T15:18:15.543" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T15:18:15.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22259" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-07T15:18:15.543" Score="0" Body="For questions about the equipment and process around capping bottles of homebrew." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-07T17:39:13.120" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T17:39:13.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22245" CreationDate="2017-12-08T16:52:44.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you check your pH?  If it's off you may be getting low conversion which could lead to low attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T16:52:44.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22261" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-08T18:56:17.340" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-08T18:56:17.340" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T18:56:17.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22262" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-08T18:56:17.340" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to the creating or maintaining refrigerators or freezers modified for holding and/or dispensing homebrew (e.g. beer in a Cornelius keg)." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T09:34:51.133" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T09:34:51.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22245" CreationDate="2017-12-08T20:25:07.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say its incorrect estimates of unfermentable sugars from roasted / caramelized grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider using darker more flavorful versions but use less overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't exceed the recommended specialty / base grain ratio from the grain data sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. I've seen this happen a lot with beers with ratios that exceed recommended %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example is a recipe calls for 1lb C-60 but someone uses 3lb of C-20 the color will be correct but there will be 3x more unfermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-12-08T20:32:58.707" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T20:32:58.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-09T03:55:44.027" Score="2" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven’t started doing a lot of brewing just yet but I’ve had some ideas for beers I want to attempt to make. One is a stout with some cherry. I’ve tasted a stout with cherry but I ended up not much liking the overall flavor it brought but i loved the aromas I got from the cherry they added. What would be the best process to get more aroma from a cherry added to a beer without getting a lot of flavor from the cherry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine it has something to do with when you add the fruit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15806" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T12:43:43.017" Title="How to get fruit aroma without a lot of the flavor into a beer" Tags="|fruit|aroma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22264" CreationDate="2017-12-09T12:37:33.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only examles I've seen pull this off well are &lt;strong&gt;bottle aged beers&lt;/strong&gt;. Where the flavors melow and meld with the malts but seem to keep the volatile aromas. (porters and stouts).&#xA; Some fruits are better than others, stone fruits seem to do this best as whole fruit additions. While using just peels or zest from citrus often give more aroma than flavor in beer styles that are best fresh like IPAs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How and when the fruit is added does play a big role. Boil additions impart more flavor than aroma. Secondary impart more aroma than flavor. There's many other times in between that will slide this scale on that spectrum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also fermenting under pressure helps keep those aromas from gassing out with the CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the same technics to enhance hop aromas and tame flavors can be applied to fruits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T12:43:43.017" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T12:43:43.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22266" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:19:59.757" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:19:59.757" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:19:59.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22267" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:19:59.757" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:19:59.757" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:19:59.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22268" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:24:12.887" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:24:12.887" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:24:12.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22269" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:24:12.887" Score="0" Body="For questions about the proteins present in homebrew and how to alter the protein content." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T09:34:33.043" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T09:34:33.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22270" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:29:11.387" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:29:11.387" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:29:11.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22271" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:29:11.387" Score="0" Body="Fruit extracts are products that provide a concentrated fruit flavor, often by extracting said flavor as a tincture." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T09:34:45.970" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T09:34:45.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22272" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:57:03.077" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T16:57:03.077" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:57:03.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22273" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:57:03.077" Score="0" Body="A Finnish beer style made using a variety of malted and unmalted grains, traditionally made with juniper branches." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T09:34:15.090" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T09:34:15.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22274" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-09T17:04:40.757" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T17:04:40.757" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T17:04:40.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22275" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-09T17:04:40.757" Score="0" Body="Beer made with a lower alcohol content, able to be consumed in larger quantities without being overly intoxicating." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T09:35:06.847" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T09:35:06.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22276" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-09T17:31:52.833" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T17:31:52.833" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T17:31:52.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22277" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-09T17:31:52.833" Score="0" Body="For questions related to the health- or bodily-effects of consuming homebrew." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T09:35:32.983" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T09:35:32.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22278" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-12-09T17:34:59.857" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T17:34:59.857" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T17:34:59.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22279" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-12-09T17:34:59.857" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the terminology associated with homebrewing, beer-making, wine-making, etc." OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T09:35:00.743" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T09:35:00.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2566" CreationDate="2017-12-11T08:21:22.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to my experiences, there are only two ways to get a soy aroma in a clean beer (i.e. without using sake yeast) without adding soy sauce: Yeast autolysis and some dark malts. I wouldn't really recommend going the first route because yeast cell contents can also add other, less pleasant, aromas such as fecal matter. The latter requires some degree of trial and error but I have &quot;sucessfully&quot; gotten soy-sauce type flavors from cold steeping dark crystal malts (Caramunich III, Special W) and from some roast malt (Carafa I) over extended periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastActivityDate="2017-12-11T08:21:22.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22281" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-11T19:20:38.387" Score="0" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a week of carbonation, I noticed some kind of sediment on top of the bottles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LClLc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LClLc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, it looks like pieces of fizz drops I used for priming but they should've dissolved (or not?). Doesn't look like yeast either... &#xA;What else it can be and should I worry about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15560" LastEditorUserId="15560" LastEditDate="2017-12-11T19:50:24.283" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T03:49:36.507" Title="Sediment during carbonation" Tags="|carbonation|sediment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22281" CreationDate="2017-12-11T21:09:07.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually this is an indication of contamination. but not always. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;open one up and see if you have any off flavors like plastic or astringent.&#xA;also look for over carbonation and gushers....which will tell you that its contaminated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have in the past had this on a stout with no off flavors but was a gusher, tasted fine....on another, cream ale, it tasted like plastic.....had to dump 50 bottles.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2017-12-11T21:09:07.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22281" CreationDate="2017-12-12T03:29:15.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say it's a &quot;micro-krausen&quot;. At bottling, the space above beer in a bottle is just air. You added sugar for consumption by yeast, so resulting CO2 would carbonate beer. It's reasonable to expect yeast to do whatever it normally does in the fermenter, just at much smaller scale. So it produces that. My experience is that the more O2 is available, the more prominent that &quot;collar&quot; is: e.g. in bottles where seal was not perfect (near-zero carbonation meant all CO2 dissipated) the &quot;collars&quot; were bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also could be a sign of infection, but not necessarily so. The notion that it may be an infection comes from association of this &quot;collar&quot; with bacterial pellicle  - which is fair enough. But if beer is under-attenuated, it may as well produce those &quot;collars&quot; and possibly gushing bottles, as during bottling you getting yeast back to suspension and adding sugar, i.e. &quot;rebooting&quot; fermentation to some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easiest test, open a bottle, test a beer, judge for yourself. So far, there's nothing to particularly worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastEditorUserId="14593" LastEditDate="2017-12-12T03:49:36.507" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T03:49:36.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-12T05:57:16.713" Score="1" ViewCount="760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to replicate Brewdog's Elvis Juice Grapefruit infused IPA. From what I understand you need to add peels of grapefruit and orange to it. Are these added during the boil or on secondary? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just use Gin or Vodka to sanitize the peel or would shortly boiling the peels in water (before adding the peels and water to secondary) be better? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T20:15:00.300" Title="Replicating the Elvis Juice IPA" Tags="|fruit|ipa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-12T06:43:08.303" Score="2" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my friends bought me two cans of Coopers Australian Pale Ale. I haven't used kits before and I am having trouble figuring out what's inside. So far what I can deduce it's a combination of hop extracts and some type of sugar extract? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know is the exact sugar content and get some opinions on the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They use some basic hop extracts, based on some research it's not desirable to boil the content. So what I wanted to do is a 10 minute boil of some nice hops for flavour, letting it coold down a bit before dumping in the contents of the kit (I was thinking a combination of Amarillo and Citra). Would this work?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have no idea what the level of sugar is and how much the OG will be for a single gallon of beer. If anyone has some idea on this then I can also consider buying more fermentables to increase the OG. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I trust the yeast packet provided with this kit (it's been in my cupboard for 8 months already). Or should I just get some Safale S05 instead? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T22:00:15.187" Title="Working with Coopers Australian Pale Ale kit" Tags="|kits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10600" CreationDate="2017-12-12T11:01:58.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The physical quantity of hydrometer reading is Gram/liter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15811" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T11:01:58.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22284" CreationDate="2017-12-12T15:49:45.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per DIY dog instructions &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Add as much grapefruit and orange&#xA;  peel as you dare and FV for extra&#xA;  citrus twist&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FV = fermentation Vessel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the tip they provide &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shave of the surface of the citrus peel to&#xA;  unlock the highly aromatic compounds into&#xA;  the beer. Avoid putting any white pith&#xA;  into the brew as it will create an intense&#xA;  and unpleasant bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=how%20to%20zest%20citrus%20fruit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google how to Zest citrus fruit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So add it to secondary or after fermentation has completed. they dont give how much so experiment. To sanitize it, you should be able to wipe the outside of the peel with high proof alcohol, if you are following the tip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;source&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewdog.com/usa/lowdown/diydog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY Dog&lt;/a&gt; this is a very large PDF (101MB)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2017-12-12T16:26:09.837" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T16:26:09.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22285" CreationDate="2017-12-12T18:22:42.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have posted some tips &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/21671/adding-ingredients-to-an-ipa-kit/21675#21675&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to answer specifically the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can do a 10 min boil.  Dry hop is another option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, you may add dry malt extract or dextrose to increase alcohol content.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the yeast is old, you should make a starter.  If you have problems with the starter, you should get fresh yeast.  I made the mistake of using the cooper's yeast that was over a year old without a starter, it was just not strong enough to start fermenting properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T18:22:42.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22284" CreationDate="2017-12-12T20:15:00.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When rubbing or shaving citrus fruit, you realize very quickly, that the aroma you want is only contained in the very outermost layer of the skin, i.e. the zest[1]. Take care to carefully shave of this part as the pith (white stuff below the zest) can add a very bitter taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have successfully used grapefruit zest in a Bock this year. I would suggest following Brewdog's advice of putting the zest directly into fermenting vessel as you would with hops when dry hopping. I assume that quite a lot of the aromatic compounds will be lost to evaporation when you boil orange zest. As with all fruit, you want to wash citrus thoroughly first to remove any pesticide, fungicide or other contaminants from the surface. Furthermore, I sanitize the zest of citrus with multiple rounds of Star San (or Isopropyl depending on what's available) to avoid any contamination with wild yeast or bacteria that tend to stick to fruit skins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] Wikipedia has a good article on zest: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zest_(ingredient)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zest_(ingredient)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T20:15:00.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22285" CreationDate="2017-12-12T22:00:15.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure the cans are fresh. Old malt extract has an oxidized off flavor that tastes like sherry. From experience I can say a 3 year old can of Coopers extract is long enough. :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15814" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T22:00:15.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22196" CreationDate="2017-12-12T22:03:00.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;O2 is important to big brewers because the beer will get warm and cold many times and they can't control the age. Drink it fresh and enjoy it. It might not last as long as a super low DO beer like Sierra Nevada but it will be fine in the short run. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15814" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T22:03:00.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="362" CreationDate="2017-12-13T16:41:30.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's covered in the book &quot;Experimental Homebrewing&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T16:41:30.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18746" CreationDate="2017-12-14T10:18:52.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of links to help you with this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tannins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cider.org.uk/tannin.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cider.org.uk/tannin.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acids:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cider.org.uk/phandacid.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cider.org.uk/phandacid.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cider.org.uk/tlctext.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cider.org.uk/tlctext.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I have been reading around this, you need some acidity, some sweetness and some tannins, too little of one makes an unbalanced cider. Say acidic and sweet with no tannins would be thin and lacking body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much acid and tannin with no sugar would be harsh and dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much tannin and sugar would lack the fruity essence of cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dry west country UK cider would be low in sugar with higher tannins and acidity, where as a sweet north french cider would be lower in tannins and much higher in residual or added sugars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T10:18:52.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22187" CreationDate="2017-12-14T10:30:48.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Sur-Lies is the process of allowing a finished wine to continue to sit on the lees in order to extract flavors from them. Mixing is used to accelerate the process of flavour pickup and break down of the Lees on which the wine is sitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a small batch I am not sure the mixing is a vital as for larger commercial operations. Furthermore, I don't think you should be opening our vessel to do the mixing, a good sloshing around should stir up the Lees into the body of the liquid and allow for the desired mixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding scheduled mixing if you are trying to replicate an exact previous batch then temperature control and scheduled are far more important. If you just want the benefit of the process then an article I found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://winemakermag.com/924-sur-lie-wine-kits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wimemakingmag.com&lt;/a&gt; suggests:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Stir once per week for eight weeks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Stir once per month for one year&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace stir with slosh about, and week/month with week-ish and month-ish and I am sure you will have a delicious wine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise against opening to mix as in traditional method they just roll the barrels to mix the Lees through the wine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T10:30:48.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22187" CreationDate="2017-12-14T13:43:11.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is some advice from a former winery owner (mine) and having scored a 93 in Wine Advocate on a Red Rhone Blend. I think you are mixing up sur-lie aging of white wine and red wines. I don't know any winemaker that mixes up the lees of a red wine to enhance mouthfeel, which is what you are doing with white wine, mostly chardonnay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two types of lees: Gross and Fine. You want to age on the fine lees. Gross lees are produced right after pressing and contain lots of junk. Stems, grape skins, bugs, seeds, etc. Fine lees are what's left after you rack your wine the first time. I typically did this several days after pressing and the big layer had compacted on the bottom of the tank. Don't worry, there is enough fine lees still floating around the tank after the first racking. Then it's nighty night, time to put the wine to rest for a long time. In a barrel, I would have to top up and adjust sulfite levels every month or so. If this is in a carboy, you will not need to top up and maybe adjust sulfites every few months. But do not stir, you will introduce too much oxygen. Bottle when you are ready!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-04-27T12:01:53.453" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T12:01:53.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22299" CreationDate="2017-12-14T17:28:01.837" Score="5" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;Woke up this morning to an unhappy surprise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H7TRa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H7TRa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the brew blew&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the ceiling clean has proven to be quite the challenge, since the krausen had dried off before I got to it.  Can anyone share techniques that have worked for them in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it stands, I'm considering just burning down the house, collecting the insurance, and starting over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15323" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T13:14:55.617" Title="How to clean krausen off of ceilings?" Tags="|cleaning|krausen|blow-off|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22352" CreationDate="2017-12-15T10:08:42.333" Score="3" ViewCount="6457" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year (2016) I made a small batch of wine from my own grapes. I started out mostly ignorant of most things regarding wine making (I had already been homebrewing AG since 2015), and what I read confused me more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I had this thing of &quot;f**k this&quot;, I will start with it and see what I can do. So the only things I bought were a bag of wine yeast and a bottle of pectinase enzyme. All the rest I had from brewing. The only advice I followed was from a blog, where the writer advised to store the wine cool in order to clear it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is what I did, and in March I had a really nice wine, which I then already bottled, being ignorant of the fact most wines are kept over summer. However, tannins had dropped out beautifully, and it was perfect. I also did not add sulphite, being ignorant of the issue. There were only six bottles, and we drank them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, there was indeed one thing, and that was that it was not degassed. However, I get the impression that this issue is really exaggerated on the web. There is no fizz or sparkle, just a light taste of something that you know is carbon dioxide on the palate. And after five minutes after being poured out is has mostly disappeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why do people whisk their wine? Does their wine really contain that much gas (which for me would be the levels of Lambrusco), or is it just because &quot;reasons&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would my wine have been mostly degassed because of the racking before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T15:25:25.937" Title="Is degassing wine really necessary?" Tags="|degassing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22297" CreationDate="2017-12-15T13:14:55.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All humor aside it should clean easily with mild soap and water.  I've found that dish soap 1:20 ratio in a spray bottle does well on latex paint for all kinds of mishaps. Don't use soaps with bleach. Test a small area for discoloring, but allow to dry before you decide. My paint does change color when wet but returns to normal once dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray and let soak to soften the krausen, then it should wipe off with damp cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T13:14:55.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22298" CreationDate="2017-12-15T13:24:16.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's mostly for yeast health and that most wines have no carbonation by style. So even slight bottle pop or bubbles are considered a defect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But cO2 in wine can also change the flavor and aroma giving if the impression of metallic or being overly acidic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2017-12-15T13:32:14.827" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T13:32:14.827" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22298" CreationDate="2017-12-15T18:52:39.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem with some of my white wines. Red wine not really since aging in the barrel pretty much gets rid of any CO2. I just had a white wine from Chateau St. Michelle in which I wasn't expecting a little fizz, but it was welcome. Carbonation can take the edge off high acid wines (aka Champagne). It's considered a flaw in Red wines but acceptable in white. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the home winemaker, I suggest warming up your storage vessel to room temperature for a few weeks to help with degassing or any residual fermentation to finish. It's also possible the MLF happened in the bottle but you won't know that if you haven't done a test before and after bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it bugs you, just pour your wine in a glass vigorously and let it sit for a while to get rid of the gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, racking, vacuuming, whisking or whatever before you bottle can get rid of it. If you do a bentonite fining to clear the wine, the clay acts as a nucleation point and will get rid of much of the gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T18:52:39.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22298" CreationDate="2017-12-15T22:56:52.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that degassing is a safe step to better ensure a good final quality of your wine. I just finished brewing my first 6 gallon batch of Cabernet Sauvignon from a wine kit. There was so much carbonation in the fermentation that it actually foamed over the topped when I racked it over to age with oak chips. Thankfully I was racking over in the bathroom so that I could get it in the bathtub. After the aging I racked it over to clarify the wine and performed the degassing with a degassing wand from NorthernBrewer hooked up to a power drill. Despite all those efforts, my final bottled wine still has carbonation as evident in the notorious metallic taste as well as mild bubbling when shaken aggressively. I plan to never skip degassing after this experience and plan to definitely monitor conditions to reduce the effects of CO2 on future batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15831" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T22:56:52.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-16T00:30:42.133" Score="1" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can we use Agave sweetener to backsweeten hard apple cider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15832" LastActivityDate="2017-12-16T15:32:31.057" Title="Can we use Agave sweetener &amp; hard Apple Cider" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22349" CreationDate="2017-12-16T11:46:52.633" Score="1" ViewCount="1841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently made an extract amber ale from a recipe kit, after primary fermentation was done I bottled my beer for priming, the beer had a strong sour smell than but after searching online I assumed it's because the beer is still young. After another 2 weeks of priming I opened a bottle and it smelled sour, bet less so from bottling day, the beer tastes sour/tart. To my understanding this can either be from a wild yeast infection, or Acetaldehyde that will disappear in the future.&#xA;How much time should I wait before I can safely assume it's an infection? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T14:28:49.793" Title="How much time should I wait for Acetaldehyde to clean up before determining my beer has been infected" Tags="|off-flavor|aging|acetaldehyde|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22304" CreationDate="2017-12-16T15:26:43.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's really not a set time for this senerio, but time and conditions may improve the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetaldehyde is produced in early fermentation then later cleaned up in later stages and aging. It's identified by a green Apple aroma and in bad cases as a cidery taste. This may be the &quot;sour&quot; taste that reduced in the steps you mentioned. It may clean up in bottle conditioning and aging but may not as it's best cleaned up as a whole in a long secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a wild yeast time in bottle aging also may improve the beer but may take several months, or may even get worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that it may actually be acetobacter, which will only get more sour until oxygen or ethanol are gone. In which case it's usually game over for a brew.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-12-16T15:26:43.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22303" CreationDate="2017-12-16T15:32:31.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes but this is still a fermentable sugar so the cider will need to be heat pasteurized or chemically preserved for a long shelf life or cellar aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it will be consumed soon usually keeping it refridgerated is sufficient to prevent further fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-12-16T15:32:31.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22304" CreationDate="2017-12-16T16:50:22.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chlorine in your water can be perceived as a sour taste if it causes chlorophenols in your beer  Does your water have chlorine and if so, sis you do anything to remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-12-16T16:50:22.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22309" CreationDate="2017-12-17T04:42:38.120" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed up the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.midwestsupplies.com/grapefruit-sultan-extract-beer-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grapefruit Sultan from Midwest&lt;/a&gt; on 12/7 and I'm facing a bottling predicament. As it stands fermentation is complete and the yeast are just cleaning up. No plans to secondary, and I'll be dry hopping in primary. Due to the holidays we have to head out on 12/22 and won't return until 1/1. Considering dry hopping this beer 12/17, and bottling it 12/21. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it too soon to bottle this one, or should I just let it chill in primary until we return? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15834" LastActivityDate="2017-12-17T15:55:43.443" Title="The holidays are messing up the bottling schedule" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|conditioning|kits|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22308" CreationDate="2017-12-17T15:55:43.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just wait until you get back.  Just because you aren't racking to secondary doesn't mean the extra couple weeks in the fermenter won't do any good.  It might be quasi-marginal, but erring on the side of more time in the fermenter will just ensure that your yeast have cleaned up after themselves by the time you bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry-hop the day you get back, and bottle that following weekend, you'll basically be right on schedule for what the recipe called for, minus a transfer to another fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that said, would your beer be awful if you rushed it?  Probably not.  If the OG was a little lower (maybe &amp;lt;1.050) I might even just say to go for it.  But if you have no real reason to get it packaged sooner, I think most people would advise to err on the side of more time in the fermenter, just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2017-12-17T15:55:43.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22350" CreationDate="2017-12-20T00:15:30.163" Score="1" ViewCount="1192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing ginger beer for the first time using a ginger beer plant with &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.burkesbackyard.com.au/fact-sheets/food-and-recipes/food-health-nutrition/ginger-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this recipe.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this recipe once fermentation begins you feed the plant sugar and ground ginger for 7 days. I understand why the plant is fed sugar but I don't understand why it is important to feed it ginger regularly. Couldn't one just add all the ginger at the end to taste? I'm also not sure what a good ratio of ginger to liquid is. Someone commented that the original recipe is too weak so I'm doubling the amount of ginger so there should be about 150g of ground ginger for 8L of liquid. Would this be too much ginger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15844" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T15:14:16.617" Title="Why is ginger fed to ginger beer plant regularly, what is a good ratio of ginger to liquid?" Tags="|fermentation|recipe-formulation|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22313" CreationDate="2017-12-21T21:24:35.937" Score="1" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some searching around, I've not been able to find butterscotch extract in any nearby stores. I suppose I could order online, but I've realized that there is quite a bit of butterscotch syrup floating around. If I get one with no fat could this cause any problems? I notice that this stuff tends to have some preservatives in it, but I've heard that that isn't always a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I put this stuff in during the boil and expect to have a reasonable beer at the end? I'm aiming to still have a nice foamy head at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14947" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T14:15:30.073" Title="Adding butterscotch syrup in primary" Tags="|experiments|alternatives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22312" CreationDate="2017-12-21T21:58:38.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never used that for brewing but i have for ice cream. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add it after the the Lag phase of fermentation, basically in the heart of fermentation, when the yeast is done multiplying, due to the Potassium Sorbate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start this in a small batch, probably gallon or less, or a fast ferment to see how much butterscotch flavor is needed. Then scale it up from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;personally i would make it myself and take a hit to head retention. butter brown sugar and heavy cream, vanilla is all you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2017-12-21T22:05:38.173" LastActivityDate="2017-12-21T22:05:38.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22315" CreationDate="2017-12-24T03:26:14.303" Score="5" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a kegerator that holds two, five gallon kegs.  The kegs are charged at 25 psi CO2 for two weeks at 70°F (21°C).  When I place a keg in the kegerator I release the pressure on the keg.  Once placed in the kegerator the kegs are set to 8 psi at 40°F (4°C).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I pour the beer a head of both stiff and soft foam forms.  The soft foam eventually dissipates into beer.  The stiff foam holds it's shape.  I generally remove the stiff foam with a spoon and then pour more beer into the glass to fill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried various levels of CO2, as low as 6 psi in the keg (40°F) and 20 psi to charge (70°F).  This has not changed the fact that there is stiff foam.  This happens consistently across multiple styles of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lines from the keg to the tap are 1/4 inch wide (id), and 10 feet long.  They are stored coiled, horizontally, above the top the kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I prevent the stiff foam from forming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1sdII.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1sdII.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10696" LastEditorUserId="10696" LastEditDate="2017-12-26T15:41:59.390" LastActivityDate="2017-12-26T16:27:20.440" Title="How to eliminate stiff foam from kegerator?" Tags="|kegging|kegerator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22314" CreationDate="2017-12-24T20:08:11.937" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would say the beer is over carbonated from the start.&lt;/strong&gt; Usually 2 weeks at serving pressure 12-14psi at any temp is good for 5 gallon kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your lines could use some adjusting to pour at the same average psi for most styles 12-14psi. Right now your lines will pour a pint in about 6 seconds at 8 psi. Most will shoot for about 8-10 seconds at a higher serving pressure. To avoid the beer from going below style cO2 volumes while on tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So.. long carb at the proper pressure for desired volumes. If you want to rush the force carb only do 25 psi for a day or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then fix your line length and diameter for better pours at a proper serving pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Determining Proper hose length for your Kegerator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2017-12-26T16:27:20.440" LastActivityDate="2017-12-26T16:27:20.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22977" CreationDate="2017-12-26T19:19:08.030" Score="6" ViewCount="4264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that many microbreweries centrifuge their beer in order to remove yeast and hops. These machines, e.g. from Alfa Laval, GEA and Andritz, are huge and not something you would have in your kitchen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Industrial machinery are just too big to have at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any products for home use? Can you easily make one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15680" LastEditorUserId="15680" LastEditDate="2017-12-29T07:56:43.733" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T21:44:27.653" Title="Can you centrifuge beer in your home?" Tags="|process|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22316" CreationDate="2017-12-26T19:38:42.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, you can make one, and it may be pretty tricky depending on batch size and containers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;did you want to make one for 5gals? or bottles? or some other size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardest part is getting it balanced. if its unbalanced your going to have a disaster waiting to happen, either bearings fail, or the shaft etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but the basic build is going to be a disc that spins at a constant speed, some way to balance it, and making it hardy enough to last. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2017-12-26T19:38:42.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-27T11:51:13.013" Score="2" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I live we only get some of Coopers international extracts, but none of the brew enhancers or dry malt extracts that I've seen in most of the recipies. Will I get good results if I don't add any of these extras or should I replace them with something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15847" LastActivityDate="2018-01-06T06:46:05.197" Title="First time extract brewing with little resources" Tags="|first-time-brewer|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22318" CreationDate="2017-12-27T15:10:16.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've seen/heard, the vast majority of quality comes from your process and the freshness of your ingredients.  Get the freshest extracts, hops, and yeast you can start brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time you'll learn what you can do to improve your brew with your own limitations.  But as long as you can get hops, malt, and yeast (and water), you should be in good shape to make a decent brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that if you can't get the specific ingredients listed in recipes you won't really be able to recreate the exact flavor, but you should be able to get reasonably close.  Given that you're just starting out though I would focus more on getting a handle on the process and then go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2017-12-27T15:42:07.793" LastActivityDate="2017-12-27T15:42:07.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22316" CreationDate="2017-12-27T16:41:38.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not seen any commercial breweries use a centrifuge to clairify beer. They do use a whirlpool tank based on similar but actually different fluid dynamic principles. But isn't applied on finished beer.  Filtering or or normal fining is much more efficient even on a commercial scale. There are large centifuges for this but I haven't seen any here in breweries.  To make one for home use does seem like an expensive novelty that can get the same results by other means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-12-27T16:41:38.843" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22323" CreationDate="2017-12-27T22:14:23.620" Score="3" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first post here but I've read a few posts for reference on my first few brews. I have now made 5 gallons of cider using 5 different yeasts. Two of them I really liked and plan to experiment a bit more with them next year using honey instead of brown sugar on some batches before primary fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, how is making a cyser different from just a regular cider? What steps are involved? What ratio of honey to cider should I use as a baseline? (Like I had read somewhere it's about 3/4 water and 1/4 honey for a mead)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, continuing along this line of thought, if I used a cherry blossom honey (just an example), how well does the flavor of the honey come through? I'm thinking of using a Ghost chili infused honey on one gallon, a mango infused on a second gallon, and an Orange blossom honey for a third.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15859" LastActivityDate="2017-12-28T01:41:19.320" Title="Making a melomel cyser" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22325" CreationDate="2017-12-27T23:50:24.220" Score="1" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use Pectic Enzyme (powder) for Beer ! ( What I understands it's for wine only )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13886" LastActivityDate="2017-12-28T08:41:34.080" Title="Pectic Enzyme (powder) for Beer !" Tags="|beer|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22321" CreationDate="2017-12-28T01:36:00.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ratio of juice to honey completely depends upon a series of factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) What is the alcohol tolerance of your yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) What percent of alcohol by volume do you intend to reach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) How much of the honey quality do you want compared to the fruit quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of any fermentation, the differences are not that great compared to the similarities. I would not change that much compared to the successful fermentation you have already done. If you have your own system that works then stick with it, the only difference is the starting material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are trying to get close to the maximum alcohol tolerance of the yeast you may need to add the honey in small batches during fermentation in order to prevent a stuck fermentation created by adding it all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of actual numbers, this is the art of fermentation and you need as the artist to decide. If you want it very floral with only a hint of fruit, use a lot of the watered-down honey. If you want a heavy fruit character and a high ABV percentage using strongly tolerant yeast (I love Lalvin EC-1118 for this), get the SG up there by just adding straight honey to the juice to close to 1.090-1.100 and then keep feeding it honey to get it back up to around 1.005 once it drops below 1.000 until you hit the amount that would max out your particular yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To boil or not before fermenting, now that could start a war. Real honey is definitely not a &quot;sterile&quot; substance, but the likelihood of germinating the Clostridium botulinum spores typically found in honey during your fermentation is relatively low. I am definitely not a militant anti-boiler, but I tried boiling once and didn't like the mead I wound up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How well does the flavor come through? It's really hard to answer that over the internet without exact specifics. Honey is not by its nature uniform in flavor. With regards to infusing flavors, the ghost chili infusion then ferment would probably not be as potent as just fermenting with some chili in the bucket. Capsaicin is more soluble in alcohol than water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3747" LastEditorUserId="3747" LastEditDate="2017-12-28T01:41:19.320" LastActivityDate="2017-12-28T01:41:19.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-28T05:41:21.443" Score="1" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently tried a mango lassi IPA which was really nice, it really captured the flavour of the mango lassi. I was wondering what they may have used to get those flavours? Would it be lactose and mango in secondary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2017-12-29T17:00:32.163" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T09:54:25.087" Title="Mango Lassi IPA, what do they use to get the lassi flavour?" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22322" CreationDate="2017-12-28T08:41:34.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not needed for beer. Pectic enzyme (more correct pectin lyase) is used to degrade pectin in fruit and grape wine to improve clearing and removal of haze, because of pectins. Since malt, wort and beer do not contain pectin it is not needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pectin_lyase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pectin lyase&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://winemakersacademy.com/pectic-enzymes-wine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pectic enzymes and wine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2017-12-28T08:41:34.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22328" CreationDate="2017-12-28T22:32:06.800" Score="3" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've successfully fined my last several batches using gelatin, added while the beer is still at room temperature, then promptly refrigerated. I fill two half-barrel (48 l) Sankey kegs at a time, and use a chain hoist to lower them into the kegerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that it's cold outside (freezing rain here, in fact), I'm wondering if I could get ahead by fining and kegging another couple of batches and chilling them in Nature's own refrigerator. But transferring them to the kegerator would inevitably disturb the sediment, so I'm wondering if anyone knows whether or not fined beer re-settles quickly, slowly, or not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2017-12-29T16:55:39.733" Title="Q: Will fined beer re-settle if disturbed?" Tags="|finings|gelatin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22316" CreationDate="2017-12-29T02:22:43.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As someone with a liquid nitrogen dewar flask, Polyscience immersion circulator, recirculating chiller, and other high-tech equipment in my kitchen, I do not have a centrifuge and I will likely not have one in this home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A decent refrigerated centrifuge that can hold 250 mL bottles and spin fast enough to do something is extremely expensive and needs its own 220V breaker. You cannot centrifuge beer bottles, they are not designed to withstand the very significant gravitational loads applied during the process. You would be asking for serious trouble and potentially fatal injury if you were standing next to the centrifuge at the time of a failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a standard wine filter or if you want to get a bit more sciencey vacuum filtration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3747" LastActivityDate="2017-12-29T02:22:43.040" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22326" CreationDate="2017-12-29T16:55:39.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience beer fined with gelatin when disturbed does settle out again but seems to take longer than the original fining time.  May take weeks if it's already carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &quot;think&quot; the reason is that the disturbed particles grab some cO2 and become slightly buoyant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2017-12-29T16:55:39.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22330" CreationDate="2017-12-30T02:50:15.413" Score="4" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short...I didn't have Vodka so had to use distilled water in the airlock. Life got in the way and over a week later I finally got back to the beer today. Fermentation has completed but the airlock contains a mixture of stagnant blowoff. A quick inspection and sniff test makes me think it's not contaminated, but the airlock is definitely sour-smelling from the stagnant blowoff. I've never &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; used Vodka or Star San and am wondering what the likelihood of a contaminated batch would be from an otherwise undisturbed airlock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2018-01-03T14:20:42.703" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T17:00:05.990" Title="Contamination from airlock" Tags="|contamination|airlock|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22329" CreationDate="2017-12-30T14:58:48.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the likelihood of a batch getting contaminated this way is pretty low.  Certainly be careful with cleaning and replacing the airlock.  But generally speaking the airlock serves as a blocker for air exchange.  If the airlock did become contaminated, the contaminants would still need to work their through the airlock and into the fermenter, which isn't super likely unless there was a large temperature or pressure difference.  And even it if did there's a decent chance it wouldn't survive in the quantities that would get through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be on the safe side, I would check the gravity, clean the airlock, and give it a little longer.  If when you're ready to package it there haven't been any large changes in appearance, gravity, or smell, you're probably good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-01-03T14:18:25.840" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T14:18:25.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5917" CreationDate="2017-12-30T15:15:13.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I think the discussion so far has been good, I also have felt like alcohol contributes something akin to sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I appreciate the argument that high ABV beers tend to have high FGs which should result in a sweeter flavor, I often feel that the alcohol is more involved than this, especially with Double/Triple IPAs where I don't so much notice sweetness as an alcoholic flavor, much like vodka.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that alcohol, especially once it's fairly perceptible (as you mentioned, it seems to be most notable in the 8%+ range), offsets bitterness in a similar way to sweetness.  Maybe you're experiencing something similar to that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T15:15:13.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22329" CreationDate="2017-12-30T18:56:46.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only time will tell on this one, i use a little metabisulphite dissolved in water with a pinch of citric acid, in fact this is the same solution i use to sterilize everything. Take a quart of water add 1/2tsp meta and acid mix well you will smell the so2 gas coming out of the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15865" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T18:56:46.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22324" CreationDate="2018-01-02T11:24:47.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a regular on the BrewTube Official Facebook page and a chap called John Anderson (Abbey Homebrew) uploaded a video to his own Mango Lassi IPA brewday. He used frozen mango that were defrosted and mashed up in the bag and added to the FV. For the body he added Lactose and Maltodextrine during the boil. The Kveik yeast will give a fast ferment but I expect there to be other alternative yeasts that you could use. Perhaps an English Ale Yeast. A link to the brewday video and recipe (in comments) is below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgqzzF8jT7w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Abbey Homebrew - Mango Lassi IPA Brewday&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14944" LastEditorUserId="14944" LastEditDate="2018-01-03T09:54:25.087" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T09:54:25.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21945" CreationDate="2018-01-03T04:48:41.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;seems like the IBU's will be high  - this will make a bitter beer. Get some brewing software like beersmith (it's about $30) but will tell you what ranges of bitterness and alcohol you are going to fall under for specific styles you intend to brew. It's based on the principals of john palmers how to brew (which you could read instead but the latest version is 600 pages long and very technical)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15877" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T04:48:41.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22329" CreationDate="2018-01-03T17:00:05.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stopped using vodka or sanitizer in the airlock 19 years and nearly 500 batches ago.  No problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T17:00:05.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-04T02:57:36.143" Score="4" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first recipe design! I've brewed a couple of extract and all-grain batches, with moderate success. This time around I will be trying to clone an &lt;a href=&quot;http://mcauslan.com/en/beer-facts/?brand=st-ambroise-en&amp;amp;id=445#product-445&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;apricot wheat ale&lt;/a&gt;. The original is a very easy drinking, light ale with prominent apricot flavour. Looking to do an extract brew for a simple pragmatic recipe and efficient brew day. Here is my recipe so far: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/587917/apricot-wheat-ale-clone&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/587917/apricot-wheat-ale-clone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planning to brew 5 gallons of beer. I'm aiming to get as close as possible to ABV = 5%, IBU = 15, OG = 1.063, FG = 1.025, and use Williamette and Golding hops, all according to the stats on the original beer. I will add 4 oz of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersbestkits.com/natural-flavorings.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewer's Best apricot flavouring&lt;/a&gt; as well as my priming sugar to the bottling bucket before I bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main concern right now is a low OG/FG. The desired 1.063/1.025 seem high for a light wheat ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to validate my assumptions! I have very little experience  and would appreciate any help if there are some dumb mistakes here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not sure how to design the hop and boil schedule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It looks like Williamette and Golding have somewhat similar attributes, so the order seems arbitrary to me. 30 and 15 min additions bring me close to my target 15 IBU. Is there a good rule or logic to apply here?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is a 30 minute boil purely as a consequence of the 30 minute hop boil time. Should I change the boil time at all?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does it make sense to use 2 lb of maltodextrin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've been seeing that 8 oz is standard, 1 lb can be done, but according to Brewer's Friend, 2 lb would bring my OG and FG exactly where they need to go. It's tempting!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I chose the Safale S-05 to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/american-wheat.75279/#post-1058797&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;mimic&lt;/a&gt; an &quot;american wheat ale&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't want spicy/clove flavours to dominate the apricot flavouring I will add. I also chose dry Safale to keep it simple.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it make more sense to use a different yeast with lower attenuation so as not to bring my FG down below 1.025?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For steeping grain, I chose to add Carafoam malts based on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bwb.quietlighttest.com/Assets/PDFs_Recipes/Briess_PeachofaWeissBeer_Dec2007.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;fruit weissbier&lt;/a&gt; recipe I saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/substitute-for-carapils.411634/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;replaced&lt;/a&gt; Carapils with Carafoam as my LHBS doesn't have Carapils at the moment. (It does have Caramel Pils, is that about the same?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any educated suggestions on potential steeping grains I can use to raise OG and FG or for other benefits?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Planning on a 7-10 day fermentation with no secondary (keeping it simple).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15785" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T16:24:50.203" Title="Apricot wheat ale extract recipe – advice and opinions" Tags="|wheat-beer|clone-recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12233" CreationDate="2018-01-04T10:31:42.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is another nice link to brew a small batch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thekitchn.com/collection/beerschool-521&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Kitchn's Beer School 2015&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It provides a whole lot of practical background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T10:31:42.413" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-01-04T10:31:42.413" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22245" CreationDate="2018-01-04T11:24:30.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I was searching for &quot;caramel malts and highly attenuated beers&quot;, I found a link to a scientific document which contains probably the best explanations for the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.2005.tb00648.x/pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Impact of Dark Specialty Malts &#xA;on Extract Composition and Wort Fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize a little bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding more roasted malts decreases the amount of fermentable material (well, duh)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But even accounting for this, a wort with more roasted/coloured malts will ferment more difficult because of &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;having less nutrients&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more Maillard components, which seem to inhibit the yeast metabolism&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which all seem to indicate that the precautions taken in the one brew that went well are important. It would also seem to indicate to use an active, healthy and large enough yeast starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-01-04T11:53:15.697" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T11:53:15.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22341" CreationDate="2018-01-04T16:24:50.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mostly&lt;/strong&gt; everything there looks good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exception is the use of maltodextrin which is non-fermentable. So it will increase the OG and FG but not the ABV resulting in a beer that may be too sweet and unbalanced.&#xA;Also steeping cara malts will also be mostly unfermentable sugars adding to the high FG. Yes carapils and carafoam are about the same, just different brand names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a note I've used most of the &quot;natural&quot;    fruit extracts in various beers. To my taste they always come out tasting artificial like a those fruit flavors found in hard candy. Have since only used real fruit either added at 170° on the chill, or late in fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7-10 days may be a little short, I would allow for 21 days. But as always it's done when it's done. Check FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T16:24:50.203" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22245" CreationDate="2018-01-04T17:46:22.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never assume that an FG prediction has anything to do with the reality of how your beer will attenuate.  It's nothing more than a guess.  Sometimes it's right, sometimes it isn't.  Don't sweat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T17:46:22.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22318" CreationDate="2018-01-04T19:50:55.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coopers kits can be brewed without additions. If you just want some reasonable beer then just brew the required style of kit. If you want it a bit more body and taste then brew with one and a half or even two kits in 24L volume. It works quite well. Brew enhancer is a mix of glucose and malt extract so some adjustment to ABV can be made by adding glucose or table sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T19:50:55.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-05T14:10:10.943" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my rinsed yeast out of the fridge and it's looking like it has very low viability. It might have partially frozen at some point while it was in the fridge due to an issue with the fridge, and it was in there for a good few months too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I did the starter I initially thought it was completely dead but 12 hours on there were a few bubbles and it looks like it's coming to life ( wp 568) ... I could get new yeast but long story short that's not going to happen the only reason I was doing this brew was because I had the yeast in the fridge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the starter gets into a decent ferment then I'm wondering whether I should just do the brew and pitch it in, or whether I'd need to step up the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is generally speaking how would I figure this? Ideally I'd like some way of knowing by looking at it or smelling it or something which I know is not very scientific but I have no idea of the original viability so I don't have a starting point really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastEditorUserId="3977" LastEditDate="2018-01-05T14:28:34.497" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T15:16:44.277" Title="How do I know whether a starter should be stepped up due to inviability?" Tags="|yeast-starters|viability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22312" CreationDate="2018-01-05T14:15:30.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be worth noting that a form of &quot;butterscotch&quot; flavour - often found as diacetyl - is a by product of yeast metabolism and can be accentuated by the fermentation process. If diacetyl is really required why not adjust the brewing method and let the yeast do the work. A typical beer that is produced with elevated diacetyl levels in Sam Smiths Tadcaster Special. Generally speaking if one is to add a synthetic (or natural) flavour it is often best added after fermentation is complete or nearly so. The point being that endo and exo yeast metabolism can alter flavours noticeably (eg bio-transformation of hops). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T14:15:30.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22304" CreationDate="2018-01-05T14:28:49.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is quite possible that a lactobacillius or other similar lactobacter has infected the beer. If the taste is not to your liking I would recommend leaving the beer for (say) another 6 weeks (or longer) in the bottle and re-tasting. After 3 months if it is still sour then it will not improve. Acetal (AKA acetaldehyde) which is usually associated with a tart or &quot;green apple&quot; taste is metabolised over time but lactic (or acetic) acid is generally not further metabolised. If the beer is TOO sour after 3 months then IMHO one might reject it (or allow it to make malt vinegar in an open container).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of some mad experiments to add bicarbonate to an unintentionally soured beer to drop the acidity. It can work if there is a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; small amount of acid - otherwise it produces a flavour reminiscent of &quot;salt and vinegar chips&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T14:28:49.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22311" CreationDate="2018-01-05T15:14:16.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make a LOT of ginger beer using the ginger beer SCOBY. I can say that in my experience there is a very wide margin of appreciation regarding the amount of ginger (or lemon juice, etc) to add to a brew. I usually use a 5L demi-john. It might be filled to (say) 4L.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two heaped desert spoons of ground dried ginger added to the initial brew will produce a &quot;firey ginger mix&quot;. One dessert spoon will produce a &quot;good warmth&quot;.  A teaspoon of ginger powder in 5 L will produce a &quot;back of the throat ginger tickle&quot; - which many initially prefer, especially for new/young ginger beer. Obviously YMMV as the strength of any ginger is not standardised. But is it usually approximately the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the brewing with SCOBY is an ongoing process, involving lots of fill and drain operations, sedimentation, occasional rinsing and so on. The way the brew is bottled might well affect the taste. For example the brew can be shaken to get the ginger into suspension/solution and then that can be strained into the final bottles (with ginger in suspension) for carbonation. That will produce a gritty gingery taste, usually with a lot of bottle sediment. If the brew is decanted from the settled ginger powder then the taste will be lighter (with no sediment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't find it necessary to add a spoon (or any amount) of powdered ginger per day, in fact I find that makes the brew too string for most tastes. However I have noticed that added a table spoon of fresh ginger &quot;matchstick slices&quot; can add some variety to the flavours that is not just &quot;ginger heat&quot; but incorporates some hints of &quot;fruit&quot; as well. Some prefer adding raisins instead of sugar once per day, but I don't tend to use that method. It does work though but leaves a lot of rasins in the SCOBY. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using fresh ginger can present some problems unless it is cut into suitably large slices. I say that because powder ginger is easy to rinse from the SCOBY using a fine sieve but ground fresh ginger is about the same size as the SCOBY grains and so stays with the grains and is difficult to separate. Using slices or &quot;matchsticks&quot; makes the rinsing/filtering much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to add powdered ginger once at the start of the (say) 3 day brew. I add a desert spoon of table sugar once per day and give it all a shake. When I want to bottle some beer I allow the brew to settle and decant some of the liquid though a strainer into some PET plastic bottles. I add a desert spoon of sugar for each litre(quart?) bottle for carbonation. The drink is usually ready about 3 days after bottling and is best served cold. Depending on the circumstances people may prefer to use less (or more) carbonating sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like most ferments the drink is nice after a few days but, also like most ferments, it is even better after some time spent maturing in the bottle. Ginger beer matured for about 6 months is just wonderful. Soft and mellow with a final bite of ginger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would very much recommend using a big &quot;mother&quot; fermentation to contain the SCOBY and the initial brew - then transferring the &lt;em&gt;liquid&lt;/em&gt; to the final bottles. I do not recommend fermenting with the SCOBY in the final delivery bottles - it just wastes SCOBY. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T15:14:16.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22347" CreationDate="2018-01-05T15:16:44.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would make another starter with what you have, and get it going at full strength, and ferret out any contamination that may be present. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in general I would just get new yeast, I just ruined a whole batch by doing this same thing, it was sitting in the fridge for 2 months, then created a starter, then did another one with it. and somewhere along the line it got a contamination of something, when all was done, i had to dump my batch....goodby 5 gals of cream ale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T15:16:44.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22298" CreationDate="2018-01-05T15:25:25.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't whisk my wines, I just poor them from primary to secondary and let them stand sufficiently before bottling. Needing to de-gas a wine, IMHO, is just a sign it is being bottled too early. That or one was mistakenly using a champagne recipe! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T15:25:25.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22318" CreationDate="2018-01-06T06:46:05.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you completely unable to get ingredients through mail order? There are quite a few places that will ship internationally if that's the issue. If its really not possible, then maybe see if the source of your Cooper's kits can order something a bit better. In any case, if that's all you can so, I'd say that fermentation temp should really be your first concentration. A simple swamp cooler setup may do well depending on your climate. If your're somewhere very warm, you may need a dedicated cool area (you want 65F ideally, 68F maximum). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it might be easier for you to get started in all-grain since I would think Argentina has some decent agriculture and Patagonia malts come from your country. You can probably continue to use your current equipment, but just need to add a strainer bag to allow you to do Brew-In-A-Bag... BIAB. There are lots of videos on the internet on how to extract beer this way, and its simple for most extract brewers to do without a lot of extra equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15892" LastActivityDate="2018-01-06T06:46:05.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22356" CreationDate="2018-01-06T22:36:02.587" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about moving from extract with grains brewing to all grain brewing, instead of buying a bigger pot I'm thinking about using the same one I used for extract and downsize my butch (which actually solves a bunch of other problems for me). What size of batches can I produce with a 12L pot (actually an electric urn) doing BIAB in it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T01:21:21.360" Title="What size of batches can I produce with a 12L pot(biab)?" Tags="|equipment|boil|biab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22355" CreationDate="2018-01-07T01:21:21.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;probably 1.5 to 2 gal batches, I used BIAB in a 2.5 gal bucket, to make 1 gal batches for test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T01:21:21.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4910" CreationDate="2018-01-08T03:59:44.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the &quot;wetting&quot; psi of your stone.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add 1 lb for every 28&quot; of beer from stone to headspace.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add 1 lb for every 1000' above sea level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add these three to the volume chart per beer liquid temp.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take first three figures and add 1-2 lb for 30 minutes and increase 1-2 lbs at a time until you are at the final psi of #4.  This will give you equilibrium.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My system does not allow me to easily take out the stone for serving and I'd like to know if others have had a problem serving while still pushing through the stone.  I do my carbing at 34* then raise to 40* for serving and adjust the gas per the chart for that temp.  However, I was never sure if I am supposed to add the wetting psi to that serving pressure.  As the keg is consumed sooner than things can change much, it has not made a difference, but over time I am not sure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15901" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-01-08T14:34:28.777" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T14:34:28.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-08T04:12:24.880" Score="2" ViewCount="1181" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any disadvantages to leaving a diffuser stone (0.5micron) in the keg for serving?  The one I had bought is attached to a replacement SS dip tube and permanently in the keg.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My option would be to transfer to a new keg after carbonation, but... extra cleaning/sani/time/effort and chance of O2/contam.   In other words, if it's not a big factor, and the stone will still bubble gas up to the headspace for serving, I won't bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To take that further, after I get my carb to the desired volume using temp chart, wetting psi, atmospheric, and elevation, do I leave gas at that setting or lower it to regular chart pressure to just push out the beer at that CO2 volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15901" LastActivityDate="2018-02-28T23:11:26.820" Title="Serving through a carbonation stone" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|serving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22359" CreationDate="2018-01-08T15:15:50.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Serving using a submerged carbonation stone is less than ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will stir up sediment that's usually undisturbed on the bottom of the keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the sudden burst of cO2 will cause head foam in the keg. Cleaning that dried lacing from the keg won't be fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen one that attaches directly to the normal gas port. Ideally the stones are attached to a custom lid with its own port. So when ready to serve you change the lid or just attach cO2 to the standard gas port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your stone attaches to the normal gas port and is on a short tube so that it's indented for the keg to be inverted while carbonating. But isn't in the beer while upright, then it wount have any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second question: Your serving system should pour at the same pressure used to carbonate most beer styles so the cO2 volumes don't change while it's on tap. Line size and length are critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-01-08T15:24:29.810" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T15:24:29.810" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22362" CreationDate="2018-01-08T19:51:11.117" Score="3" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I tasted a new batch that was done priming, the beer has a distinct but mild butter after taste, so I'm suspecting high Diacetyl levels, is it still safe to drink? Or should I throw it all? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T15:03:08.633" Title="I'm suspecting high Diacetyl in my beer, is it safe to drink?" Tags="|off-flavor|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22361" CreationDate="2018-01-08T20:04:04.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diacetyl is used as a food flavoring and is safe to ingest, It is not safe to inhale diacetyl when heated and/or vaporized, and causes popcorn lung. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fda.gov/Food/IngredientsPackagingLabeling/GRAS/SCOGS/ucm261273.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.fda.gov/Food/IngredientsPackagingLabeling/GRAS/SCOGS/ucm261273.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is no evidence in the available information on diacetyl or starter distillate that demonstrates or suggests reasonable grounds to suspect a hazard to the public when they are used at levels that are now current or that might reasonably be expected in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T20:04:04.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-08T23:41:54.033" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed 5 gallons of a DME-based hefe. Simplest recipe I've ever found. Three pounds Bavarian wheat DME, three pounds light pilsen DME. Let it ferment for a week...no action in the bubbler for a couple days. Primed it with simple syrup made of 3/4 cup white sugar boiled into a cup of water and bottled. That was two weeks ago. Two DAYS ago, I opened one for a taste and it was delicious. Tonight I went to open one and foam shot a foot up from the bottle...tried three more with the same result. Is my batch ruined? I've never had this happen and of course it happens on one of the best tasting batches I've brewed. Only thing I can think is that I used too much sugar...but it's actually less than what several calculators called for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate any thoughts as I will likely brew this recipe again...just want to prevent the excessive carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15905" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T23:55:05.807" Title="Excessive Carbonation" Tags="|carbonation|over-carbonation|dme|hefeweizen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22363" CreationDate="2018-01-08T23:55:05.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bet is that your beer was underattenuated in the first place.  Since you're brewing with extract-only, I guess you're a beginner and might have neglected on making a healthy yeast pitch (no offence meant, we've all been there). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;No action in the bubbler&quot; is not a sign of completed fermentation - always measure the gravity and ensure you've reached the calculated FG. If you're not yet at that FG, at least ensure that gravity doesn't change over 2-3 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a couple overcarbonated batches, and the way to fix them was to slowly and slightly open a bottle to the point that excessive CO2 comes out, but quickly close the cap when beer foam start to get close to the cap. Depending on the degree of overcarbonation you may need to do it more than once. You'd rather do it on a cold bottle. It's a bit tedious, but works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T23:55:05.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-09T05:32:58.563" Score="1" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a chocolate-cherry brown ale with an extra ounce of hops (in 5 gallon carboy) back at the beginning of October. Would it be safe to bottle and skip secondary fermentation? There's also a thin layer of white stuff on top (mold?). Is it still good to bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15895" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2018-01-12T23:13:50.507" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T23:13:50.507" Title="Beer sat for too long in the carboy" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22365" CreationDate="2018-01-09T13:23:36.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you brewed your beer in October, then most probably the fermentation process is over (most of the time the turbulent aka primary fermentation only takes a week).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to ensure is to measure the gravity of your wort, wait a couple of days and measure it again, if it does not change, than your primary fermentation is basically over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say &quot;skip secondary&quot;, you mean skip transferring into a second carboy, in fact the secondary fermentation is a state that occurs after the turbulent (primary) fermentation, so it happens whether you transfer or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the white stuff, it's hard to say without seeing, if it is just a thin layer on a little surface of your wort, is probably just foam and byproducts from fermentation. &#xA;The best way to know is just to taste your beer, bacteria that infect wort are not harmful for men, if it tastes ugly or like vinegar, than likely your wort was infected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T13:23:36.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22361" CreationDate="2018-01-09T15:03:08.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diacetyl is a FDA safe food additive. It's known for tasting almost exactly like butter. It's common on popcorn and candies. You &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.olivenation.com/butter-flavor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;can buy straight Diacetyl&lt;/a&gt; to flavor your food if you didn't get enough in your beer.  If you don't like the way it tastes, dump it down the drain. We've all dumped many batches down the drain in our day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T15:03:08.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22369" CreationDate="2018-01-10T18:27:59.100" Score="1" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on trying this recipe - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2011/04/red-ale-for-beginning-homebrewers-hoppy-red-ale-recipe.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2011/04/red-ale-for-beginning-homebrewers-hoppy-red-ale-recipe.html&lt;/a&gt;, and calls for the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 Liter starter of either White Labs WLP001 or Wyeast 1056.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that is says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can substitute one 11.5 gram package of Safale US-05 for the&#xA;  starter of liquid yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, instead of making a yeast starter, can I just buy 2 packets of Safale US-05 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewwest.co.nz/safale-us05.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewwest.co.nz/safale-us05.html&lt;/a&gt;) and add them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another options I was considering was using 1 packet of liquid CALIFORNIA ALE YEAST - WLP001 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewwest.co.nz/california-ale-yeast-wlp001.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewwest.co.nz/california-ale-yeast-wlp001.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would either of these options be a suitable alternative to making the yeast starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13702" LastEditorUserId="13702" LastEditDate="2018-01-10T19:30:24.387" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T22:14:38.283" Title="Alternative to making a yeast starter | Red IPA" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|yeast-starters|extract|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22368" CreationDate="2018-01-10T22:14:38.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Words &quot;1 liter starter&quot; imply the number of active yeast cells that you're supposed to pitch. Number of yeast cells in one sachet of dry yeast will be roughly the same, especially if you re-hydrate that dry yeast in small amount of sterile water of room temperature (sprinkling dry yeast directly into wort is a bad idea, as ~50% yeast cells will die of osmotic shock).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;US-05 is the same strain as WLP001, so you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On &quot;high gravity beers&quot; and starters. For high gravity beers you need starters bigger than 1 liter. You can play with yeast pitch calculator at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&lt;/a&gt; to see for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T22:14:38.283" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-10T22:50:25.810" Score="3" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have set up a 1 gallon brew using brewers yeast.&#xA;I have also made my own bug starter and also purchased one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 4 days my own starter is going well and smells very strongly of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purchased one however shows no sign of bubbling but has developed a strong sour/yeast smell plus something else which may be alcohol.&#xA;I am not sure what is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut feeling is to go with the purchased one as it has the required yeast and bacteria.&#xA;My own starter i do not know what bacteria are present but i will try a small brew.&#xA;I saw the post about the ginger bug smell but am really not sure if it is working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brewing yeast one is good but i cannot give it to the kids, currently it is 5.2% ABV , i was wondering if i could dilute it 1:1 then let the bug do its work if i can get it going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had it on the kitchen window though and i see elsewhere that light is a bad idea for this.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT, as suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third batch was a winner.&#xA;Recipes out there seem to be vague.&#xA;So i have decided to weigh.&#xA;10 to 25 g of shredded ginger per litre.&#xA;25g is particularly fiery though but suits my taste.&#xA;1/2 lemon per litre, if making ginger lemonade it is best to leave a head space when bottling and add extra lemon later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all the lemon goes in at the start i end up with something that just tastes sour not lemony.&#xA;The teaspoon of bug i started with was not enough, although i have managed to grow it now. It is much slower to develop than brewing yeast.&#xA;For the mother i used boiled yeast and a little nutrient.&#xA;I also added a crushed multivitamin tablet which does appear to have improved the starter culture significantly.I do not use these when brewing though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15911" LastEditorUserId="15911" LastEditDate="2018-02-15T17:10:40.067" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T16:43:54.833" Title="Ginger bug problem" Tags="|beer|ginger|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-11T08:46:15.243" Score="2" ViewCount="839" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the question. I brewed an IPA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.25 kg Dark Munich &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.25 kg Caramel 40 L &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.50 kg Wheat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5.00 kg Pilsner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SG 1.065 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really wanted to try Giga Vermont yeast golden pitch (you can pitch one pack for 5 gallons) it has double cell count, but 72 hours no activity, no foam building, nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn’t have any yeast around, luckily my friend had some 05 slurry about 150 ml, so I pitched that fermentation started in about 18 hours.I have temperature controlled setup so it’s always steady.It was fermenting for about a week and stuck on 1.020.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is can I pitch some more Safale 05  to see if it will ferment to desire 1010 or just leave it like it is, keg it and that’s it. I never had before experience to repitch the yeast many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please share your thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15270" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-01-11T18:26:48.337" LastActivityDate="2018-01-20T17:01:18.403" Title="Fermentation stuck on 1.020" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22371" CreationDate="2018-01-11T11:43:34.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that it was a bit under pitched. If the slurry was from another batch, the yeast could be in bad health condition and the cell count is hard to estimate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just give it a kick, as in literally kick it or shake the fermentation a bit, so the yeast from the bottom get stirred up. Try avoiding splashing though. If this doesn't change anything in a few days, it is possible to pitch more yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kegging it now probably result in a sweet, unfinished beer. There is also the chance of exploding bottles but this might not be a problem in case of kegging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How big was the batch? 5 gall of 1.065 is quite a big job for one pack of yeast. No experience with giga yeast but I know the wyeast smackpacks are able to ferment up to 5 gall 1.060. And those are advertised as 'XL smackpacks'...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T11:43:34.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14586" CreationDate="2018-01-11T15:32:38.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suspect that any &quot;Ginger bug&quot; prepared in the described manner is most probably some wild yeast and friends - which is not so far from the real ginger beer SCOBY. For more predictable results it might be an idea to invest in some real ginger beer SCOBY (Google it). That looks something like water or milk kefir - small &quot;grains&quot; of opaque mush. This SCOBY is a stable mix of a particular yeast and a particular lactobacillius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T15:32:38.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22371" CreationDate="2018-01-11T15:56:35.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mix it up and get it warm.&lt;/strong&gt; Swirl the fermentor to break up yeast floculation and increase temp to 75°F or even higher. This will help lazy yeast to wake up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You may already be at terminal gravity.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;Your grist here has about 10% dextrin malts which are unfermentable. Also mash temp is critical for wort fermentability, too hot will make less fermentable wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T15:56:35.497" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22371" CreationDate="2018-01-11T17:16:15.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to try some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scottlab.com/product-100.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pro Restart&lt;/a&gt; encapsulated yeast. It's a wine product, but there isn't any reason it wouldn't work on a stuck beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T17:16:15.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-12T05:56:59.527" Score="4" ViewCount="1249" Body="&lt;p&gt;In chapter 22 of how to brew by john palmer there is a section called adjusting water for style. further down there is a handy brew cube:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i7ytc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i7ytc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Across the bottom there is a vector called &quot;beer structure&quot; with measures of soft, medium and firm - this is based off the calcium in the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there are no references to beer structure anywhere else in the book and everywhere else on the internet - it's like it's just been made up for the book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does it mean/feel/look/taste like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15877" LastActivityDate="2023-03-20T12:44:28.333" Title="What is beer structure as described by john palmer?" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22376" CreationDate="2018-01-12T15:15:02.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that he is referring tangentially to mouthfeel, I have never heard of beer structure as a vector of beer quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let Me Google &quot;Beer Structure&quot;... not really anything there (12 Jan 2018), I feel he may have just made up a term, which being John Palmer I think he is entitled to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T15:15:02.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22376" CreationDate="2018-01-12T15:26:50.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;He answers it here it's about 16 minutes in, and at about 29 minutes in&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/bKKPxXUg15Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/bKKPxXUg15Q&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I've only seen this term in reference to wines and how tannins give &amp;quot;structure&amp;quot;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If I had to guess I would say this is how the bitterness from IBU is perceived in the beer.&lt;/strong&gt; For example doing a FWH will have a &amp;quot;softer&amp;quot; bitter perception than a normal bittering addition of the same IBU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though &amp;quot;firm&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;medium&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;soft&amp;quot; are usually descriptors for mouthfeel and head texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="20968" LastEditDate="2023-03-20T12:44:28.333" LastActivityDate="2023-03-20T12:44:28.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22376" CreationDate="2018-01-12T16:32:42.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this case, structure refers to the perception of mouthfeel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T16:32:42.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-13T21:30:31.873" Score="3" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my searching here and elsewhere, brewing with birch sap is quite uncommon with brewers (although I did find one brewer that mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/5501/1643&quot;&gt;brewing with maple sap&lt;/a&gt;).   So I'd like to get a list of things to think about as I develop a beer recipe based on birch sap.  Brewing with sap is different than using syrup because knowing the flavor of the sap once concentrated is unknown in the case of using sap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specific Gravity / Flavor Concentration&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I have been able to ascertain so far, the sap, right out of the tree is in the 1.004 to 1.007 range.  One approach would be to heat the sap and use it as my mash and sparge water.  In that case, there may be very little birch flavor in the final product.  On the other end of the spectrum would be to gently evaporate&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; the sap until the specific gravity gets to a place that would make a beer on it's own, without grain.  That would yield the strongest birch flavor, but might be &quot;too much&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flavors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tasted birch sap out of the tree&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, and it's almost like pure water, but I don't know how the flavor would change if the sap was concentrated by evaporation.  Based on what that taste would be, then hops could be selected that would mesh appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fermentability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the out-of-the-tree specific gravity is, say, 1.005, is there any way to tell how much of that will be fermentable sugars, and what will be left as residual sweetness?  Or even how much of that gravity is caused by dissolved sugars versus something else (minerals?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recipe Guidelines&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any rules of thumb for birch sap based beer recipes?  Or rules of thumb from maple sap based beer recipes?  What techniques could be employed to select a reasonable starting point for the brewing of a birch sap beer?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Footnotes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&#xA;1. Boiling apparently causes a poor shift in flavor towards &quot;burnt&quot;&#xA;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&#xA;2. I cut a branch off of a river birch tree in my yard last spring and the sap dripped for weeks.  I had to taste it.&#xA;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2019-10-13T12:33:44.053" Title="Formulating a recipe with birch sap" Tags="|ingredients|specific-gravity|recipe-formulation|adjunct|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22380" CreationDate="2018-01-13T21:57:06.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made birch sap wine before now and there was no real discernable difference between that and sugar-water wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that to make birch syrup you need to reduce 100:1. 1.005 in sugar solution equates to 13g sugar/L, so it seems plausible that the majority of the dissolved contents are sugars (and salts, minerals etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest I think birch sap in beer and wine (when not concentrated) will serve mostly as an interesting talking point, and possibly add slight nutritional benefit to the yeasts (and maybe the drinker?). For flavouring I think you'd need to do a reduction first to a full or partial syrup to have an effect on flavour. What exactly the flavour of birch sap would be, when compared to maple syrup, I don't know - though birches are quite high in tar and turpentine-like oils in the bark, so there's a chance the flavour might be more bitter, chemically or smokey than maple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15922" LastActivityDate="2018-01-13T21:57:06.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22382" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-14T03:55:32.677" Score="5" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just made an experimental batch of chocolate braggot. About 60% various grain and 40% honey, OG 1.069, Safale S-04 yeast. We like to have some sweetness as well as mid-high carbonation in the final results hence wondering if there's a safe way to backsweet it (preferably with honey, not non-fermentables like lactose) yet keep the fizzy part of it? Controlled pasteurisation perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T13:48:48.320" Title="Safe way to backsweet a braggot with honey?" Tags="|carbonation|mead|safety|pasteurization|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22385" CreationDate="2018-01-14T14:20:23.777" Score="1" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;What Ph level does &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nealesbrewingsupplies.co.uk/sterilisers-cleaners-chemicals/nbs-no-rinse-sanitiser-250ml/prod_945.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Neale's Brewing Supplies sanitizer&lt;/a&gt; remain effective to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a similar ingredient list to starsan, which is listed to be effective so long as the pH of the solution is 3 or lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in an area of hard water and want to check my sanitization is up to scratch...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also generally, how effective is this compared to StarSan? StarSan seems to be a lot more popular on the internet, but not sure if this is just because of a skew towards homebrewers in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12945" LastActivityDate="2018-01-14T17:28:11.133" Title="Effectiveness of Neale's Brewing Supplies no rinse sanitizer" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|starsan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22382" CreationDate="2018-01-14T17:21:24.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically you would try to mash in the high alpha-amylase range to insure some unfermentables or use some dextrin malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer is finished and needs backsweetened you can add more honey but this will require the beer to be kept cold and consumed quickly or using a chemical yeast inhibitor to prevent further fermentation. Or adding an unfermentable sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-01-14T17:21:24.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22383" CreationDate="2018-01-14T17:28:11.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;pH below 3.0 is a recognized threshold condition needed to rupture cell walls of most bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the product brand 3.0 pH would be the number to keep it below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-01-14T17:28:11.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22393" CreationDate="2018-01-14T21:14:10.540" Score="1" ViewCount="1288" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that generally (with the possible exception of starters) yeast nutrient and energizer are not really needed for beer, as the barley provides basically everything required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, is there any possible downside to adding them?  Obviously using it when it adds no value is wasteful but is there anything in yeast nutrient or yeast energizer that would adversely affect the beer if too much is present in the final product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other end, the yeast energizer I have lists its ingredients as diammonium phosphate, Springcell, and magnesium sulfate.  Of these, magnesium sulfate sticks out as something that might benefit hoppier beers. I would imagine the amount in the yeast energizer would be relatively small, but maybe they could be high enough to make a noticeable difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally, are there any possible flavor impacts of yeast nutrient or yeast energizer if added to an otherwise normal batch of beer?  I'm mostly thinking all-malt beer, but if this might be different for wheat beer or similar then I would be interested in that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T16:56:21.153" Title="Flavor effects of adding yeast energizer or nutrient to beer?" Tags="|beer|yeast-nutrient|yeast-energizer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-14T21:41:26.467" Score="3" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner homebrewer, so I will explain my situation in more detail to make sure I am making still hard cider correctly. Recently, I started my first batch by adding 1 gallon of pasteurized store-bought apple cider to a carboy along with a packet of Lalvin-E1118 yeast. So far, I’ve put an airlock on it and have left it alone for about 2 weeks. My question is, when exactly do I start secondary fermentation, how do I do so, and is it possible to store the still cider in a wine/whisky barrel with a spigot instead of bottling? I am not ready to start carbonating and bottling the cider until I have found a tasty recipe that I like. Also, I tasted the primary brew and it is very sour. Is there a way to make the cider sweeter? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15926" LastActivityDate="2018-01-19T13:49:12.297" Title="How can I store still hard apple in a barrel before drinking?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22386" CreationDate="2018-01-15T10:40:14.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say it would not really affect your beer, depending on how much you put.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing is that, the important thing when pitching your wort is the pitch rate, which is the concentration of yeast in the wort per degree plato. Adding nutrient will not benefit this, because you will still have to wait until the yeast grows if you pitch too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use those nutrients in a starter before pitching to get the right amount of yeast cells that your wort requires to start a healthy fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About any downsides to adding, let's say your pitch rate is good, then adding nutrients to your beer will just add work for your yeast, not really benefiting your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't know about the taste of those or impact to taste of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2018-01-16T16:56:21.153" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T16:56:21.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22382" CreationDate="2018-01-15T10:45:18.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The safest way to backsweet it is to add non fermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try to kill all the yeast by pasteurisation or filtration but be carefull because even if there is just a tiny bit of yeast you will have uncontrolled bottle fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T10:45:18.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22382" CreationDate="2018-01-15T13:48:48.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's worth mentioning that it depends somewhat on how you plan to package the braggot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're planning to bottle condition, I'm not sure it's possible to back-sweeten with something fermentable like honey and still allow yeast to do the carbonation.  You might still be able to bottle if you keg/force-carbonate and then use a beer gun or something similar.  If you're just planning to keg, life is easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for back-sweetening itself, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/how-to-backsweeten-mead-and-cider/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; describes the primary method I know for how to accomplish this: adding potassium sorbate to inhibit future yeast activity and then later adding the honey.  This will allow you to safely back-sweeten without having to filter out or kill the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potassium/sodium metabisulfite (e.g. Campden tablets) may also work.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://madalchemead.com/how-to-back-sweeten-mead/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; seems to recommend using it in conjunction with potassium sorbate.  Both are pretty widely used and I'm sure you can find a lot of dosage and health information on both with a couple quick searches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping things cold may help but, as mentioned, you would still want to consume it relatively quickly as some fermentation may still occur.  Pasteurization and filtering are also potentially options but in order to do them with confidence that no fermentation will happen could be difficult, which I think is while many go the route of chemically inhibiting/killing the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T13:48:48.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-15T16:43:16.127" Score="3" ViewCount="453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m fairly new to water adjustments. This in only my fourth batch with additions. One thing I notice is the additions don’t seem to dissolve. I added 9g gypsum, 4 g calcium chloride and 1 g epsom salt to ten gallons while warming the mash water. When I was done heating I could see a good bit at the bottom. &#xA;Should I be crushing them finer first?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T22:28:11.993" Title="How to dissolve water additions" Tags="|water|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22395" CreationDate="2018-01-15T21:56:51.040" Score="1" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to use ( Super Kleer ) to clear the beer ... I purchased that but i didn't find a clear Direction to use it for the Beer ... Is it during primary or secondary ! &#xA;Im planning to use it in the secondary fermentation &amp;amp; 2 days before bottling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas ! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13886" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T11:35:02.953" Title="How to use ( Super Kleer ) for the Beer !" Tags="|fermentation|beer|bottling|techniques|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22386" CreationDate="2018-01-15T22:30:40.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen in the literature that yeast nutrient based on aminoacids can contribute soy/umami or slightly metallic flavor -- obviously, for that it needs to be incompletely consumed by yeast. For that matter, I'd be careful about adding too much nutrient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the &quot;absence of positive impact&quot; I beg to disagree. I made a habit of adding some nutrient to my starters and, for heavy beers, to the kettle at flameout. The theory (I am sure I picked it from Palmer's podcast) is that while the wort still has oxygen, yeast grows, and, while growing, consumes nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T22:30:40.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-15T22:49:42.403" Score="4" ViewCount="650" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don’t want to use potassium sorbate or sulfite to kill the yeast in wine. Does bentonite help with killing the yeast in wine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15928" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T17:08:48.427" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T09:04:06.657" Title="Does bentonite kill yeast in wine?" Tags="|yeast|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22392" CreationDate="2018-01-16T11:35:02.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Super Kleer, you should use it when primary fermentation is done, so during secondary. Put first the D1 packet to the wort, stir, then mix the D2 packet with 30ml of warm water and add it to the wort, then after 12-48h your beer should be clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, this kind of clarifying agent is not necessary for beer, using irish moss at the end of boiling is suffisant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T11:35:02.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22394" CreationDate="2018-01-16T14:07:35.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't. Bentonite is a clarifying agent, similar to Gelatin. It helps settle the yeast and other haze causing elements, but it does not kill the yeast. Sulfites don't actually kill yeast unless you put a lot into your wine. The legal limit is 350ppm, but your wine would probably taste pretty bad at those levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-01-16T17:28:49.303" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T17:28:49.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22391" CreationDate="2018-01-16T14:30:43.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually adding to the boil does well to get them mixed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned about clumping you can take some of the hot wort into a cup and slurry the addition to add back to the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting strike and sparge water is only needed for adjusting pH. A complete water profile for a specific style of beer isn't critical at this stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-01-16T17:20:29.937" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T17:20:29.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-16T20:24:39.783" Score="5" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get usually about 1/4in of sediment towards the end of the fermentation.&#xA;Does anyone know weather this predominantly dead or live yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I propose to use  some and boil it to act as a natural nutrient for a troublesome ginger beer starter bug. They are different yeasts , other is a pale ale yeast.&#xA;Is this a good idea or should i just buy commercial nutrient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15911" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T13:17:20.123" Title="Using Yeast cake as a nutrient" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22398" CreationDate="2018-01-16T21:40:25.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That yeast sediment is a mix of coagulated proteins, hop byproducts, dead and resting yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to use this as a base in order to pitch into a new batch, however you will need to wash that sediment in order to get the yeast and make a new starter.&#xA;Example of instructions here : &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewacademy.com/yeast-washing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://homebrewacademy.com/yeast-washing/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess you could also use this washed yeast as a nutrient. &#xA;Even maybe the complete cake, but be careful with byproducts that could bring off-tastes if you use too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastEditorUserId="15886" LastEditDate="2018-01-16T21:54:23.670" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T21:54:23.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22398" CreationDate="2018-01-16T21:44:45.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast-wise, a yeast cake contains enough live cells to process a heavy beer, and some people brew small beers for the entire purpose of getting a yeast cake that they use in heavy beers then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, yeast cake contains not only yeast cells, but all sorts of hot/cold break and hop particles that you probably don't want to add to another beer, especially one that is quite different from the one that produced your yeast cake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an economical yeast nutrient you can just use dry baking yeast. I always have a rather big can of that at home, as I bake a lot, so occasionally boil a tablespoon of dry baking yeast together with my starter solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T21:44:45.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22134" CreationDate="2018-01-18T17:28:49.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rhizopus Oligosporus&lt;/strong&gt; is believed to be &quot;harmless&quot; on the basis of the fact that there has never been a recorded incident of Rhizopus Oligosporus' ability to produce a toxin when fermenting Tempeh, but then again, &lt;strong&gt;Rhizopus Oligosporus&lt;/strong&gt; is believed to be a form of &lt;strong&gt;Rhizopus microsporus&lt;/strong&gt;. The latter one is a documented pathogen that does produce toxins, even several different ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem, in my view, is twofold: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rhizopus Oligosporus&lt;/strong&gt; shares large parts of its genome with &lt;strong&gt;Rhizopus microsporus&lt;/strong&gt;, a pathogen (quoting &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhizopus_oligosporus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;R. microsporus produces several potentially toxic metabolites,&#xA;  rhizoxin and rhizonins A and B, but it appears the domestication and&#xA;  mutation of the R. oligosporus genome has led to the loss of genetic&#xA;  material responsible for toxin production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The genome of &lt;strong&gt;Rhizopus Oligosporus&lt;/strong&gt; has not been sequenced fully, which means that we really don't know how much of the ability to produce poisons it has inherited from it's toxic relative. The ability of R. Oligosporus to produce toxic metabolites could be re-activated in response to environmental stressors such as exposure to radioactivity or EMFs. Until its genome has been fully sequenced, it's definitely a gamble, which could explain why Tempeh, traditionally, is cooked and/or baked after fermentation, NOT eaten raw!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &lt;strong&gt;Rhizopus Oryzae&lt;/strong&gt;, it's an even nastier fungus of the same family that has the ability to infect and damage human endothelial tissue (your blood vessels):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC547117/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC547117/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could imagine it being a contributing factor, if not a cause, of things such as deep-vein thrombosis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would stay away from Tempeh in any form, baked or not. If you want to ferment beans, I'd go with Natto (&lt;strong&gt;Bacillus Subtilis natto&lt;/strong&gt;) or Koji kin (&lt;strong&gt;Aspergillus oryzae&lt;/strong&gt;; it can ferment rice, beans and other foods). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd stay away from the Rhizopus family in all forms. The benefits aren't significant and it's hardly worth the risks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15942" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T17:28:49.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22391" CreationDate="2018-01-18T22:21:26.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe best practice is to add your minerals the night before brew day, make sure to stir vigorously.  Any minerals that don't dissolve overnight should eventually dissolve as you're heating the water to strike temperature with a bit more stirring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One notable exception is Calcium Carbonate (Chalk) will not reach desired concentrations in normal conditions.  If you need to add calcium carbonate to achieve your mash water profile, you can dissolve it under pressure of CO2 in a keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Water&quot; book by John Palmer and Colin Kaminski is really a must for anyone who wants to really understand what's going on with water chemistry in the brewing process.  It's a bit dense, so it'll probably take a few reads through if you don't have a chemistry background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15943" LastEditorUserId="15943" LastEditDate="2018-01-18T22:28:11.993" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T22:28:11.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22387" CreationDate="2018-01-18T22:50:15.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making cider is a good entry into the great hobby of homebrew.  Sounds like you've started the project properly--it's pretty easy to make cider.  However, I'd suggest you take things slowly and skip the barrel for your first batch.  Get to know the basic process and variables first. Wait till you're comfortable with the ingredients and process, then, when you have a some special juice, try out the barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary fermentation is usually a misnomer and an unnecessary step.  For your purposes, just let it stay in your primary fermentation vessel a few more weeks. Watch the airlock--when it stops bubbling, give it another weeks or two, then put it in bottles.  No need to carbonate if you don't want to.  If you bottle too soon, and some sugar hasn't fermented out, you will get a bit of carbonation in the bottle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest getting a hydrometer and recording the specific gravity (sugar concentration) of your cider before fermentation, then when you think it's done.  With experience, you'll learn what gravity level indicates that fermentation is complete given different juice and yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cider is actually sour, then you might have had some bacteria get into it and make a bit of vinegar.  Make sure you're sanitizing everything carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, use some potassium sorbate or other &quot;stabilizer&quot; which will deactivate your yeast then add your sweetener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More of all, have fun and enjoy.  Keep things easy and experiment more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15943" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T22:50:15.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17047" CreationDate="2018-01-18T23:32:24.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BRÜLOSOPHY&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 Episodes &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brulosophy.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relatively new podcast where they recap &quot;exbeeriments&quot; they've done.  Essentially, they brew side-by-side batches, one control and one with a test variable.  The topics are pretty on point for homebrewers--it doesn't stray off topic like many other podcasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-time favorite is &lt;strong&gt;Basic Brewing&lt;/strong&gt;.  The Mr. Rodger of homebrew.  Can't get enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15943" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T23:32:24.757" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-01-18T23:32:24.757" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22387" CreationDate="2018-01-19T13:49:12.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have several questions there... Secondary fermentation in the brewing world is usually meant to be secondary storage. Now cider being closer to wine than beer since it is made out of fruit juice you could send the cider through a secondary fermentation called Malolactic Fermentation (MLF). This might actually help with the sourness your are tasting which probably caused by high acid levels. MLF eats the malic acid (green apple flavors) and turns it into lactic acid (softer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to make it sweet. Simply putting more sugar in will not work. The yeast will eat it. You can use chemicals to kill the yeast or sterile filter and add sugar, you can make a sweet cider. But all this is advanced stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would skip the barrel, just store your cider in another carboy. You don't want any headspace between the cider and bung, maybe an inch. While you can store cider in an old whiskey barrel, I think that's a little too much to take on your first try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really suggest getting a book or watching some youtube videos on cider making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-01-19T13:49:12.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22413" CreationDate="2018-01-20T14:15:10.483" Score="4" ViewCount="14100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to freeze distill some hard cider I've brewed to up the gravity.  However, it is well known that freeze distillation concentrates the methanol present in the booze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, since methanol is the &quot;first&quot; thing that boils off during regular distillation; can I boil my cider for just a very short time to remove the methanol, cool it down, then proceed with freeze distillation?  If so, what would be the best way to go about it without losing all of my ethanol?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15951" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T20:00:47.130" Title="Boiling off the methanol for freeze distillation" Tags="|distillation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22371" CreationDate="2018-01-20T16:05:34.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pitch US-05 or US-04 pack for 2 weeks at 68 to 70 degrees. Did you oxygenate wort?   Ferment at too high temperature you could get 'banana' type off flavors. Brewdog333&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15567" LastActivityDate="2018-01-20T16:05:34.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22407" CreationDate="2018-01-20T18:17:48.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about it.  The methanol concentrated by freeze concentration of your cider wouldn't even be close to the acceptable amounts of methanol that's in commercial vodka.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2018-01-21T04:21:20.920" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T04:21:20.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22407" CreationDate="2018-01-20T19:27:29.523" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Methanol in cider can be a problem. It's much higher in apple juice than beer. The boiling point of methanol is 148°F(64.7°C) so if you want to boil it off before the Ethanol, boiling point 173°F (78.37°C) you could do that. Bring up to temperature for a few minutes should be enough to blow off the methanol leaving most of the ethanol behind. But this might cause a pectin haze problem. In the future, doing this before fermentation will significantly reduce the levels of methanol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm adding this to my answer so you all can read it at the top level &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Methanol is a result of pectin breaking down into galactose units. Pasteurizing the cider and not adding any pectinase enzyme generally reduces the methanol in hard cider. Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0960852409013194&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;peer reviewed paper&lt;/a&gt; on the subject&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-01-24T15:53:14.903" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T15:53:14.903" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22420" CreationDate="2018-01-22T04:39:28.500" Score="3" ViewCount="2290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a spunding valve and am using it for the first time. I just transferred to my secondary (keg) today and connected my spunding valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seven hours later I already have 5 PSI but was wondering what I should set the pressure at. I’ve read that it should be set to about 15-20 PSI but is that correct for all beer styles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed an IPA that will finish around 6.8-7% ABV. It’s already at 6.5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gJVeX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6093" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T14:06:06.887" Title="What pressure to set for spunding valve" Tags="|carbonation|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22421" CreationDate="2018-01-22T09:48:56.450" Score="2" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a wheat beer that is now in primary fermentation. &#xA;I planned on using yuzu juice after primary to give a special taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, after some thought I wanted to add a little ABV (from 3.6 to around 4%) to the beer because for now I think it is too light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you think I can add some blond DME (around 400g) at the same time as the fruit juice (yuzu) when I transfert my wort to a second carboy? (my wort is 21L)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For sure I will have a refermentation, but will there be enough yeast left to conduct it? (my pitch rate for primary was 0.75)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will I have enough yeast after some weeks when priming for bottling? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastEditorUserId="15886" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T10:02:22.080" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T13:49:23.670" Title="Refermentation with fruits and sugar" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|fruit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22418" CreationDate="2018-01-22T10:06:38.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you are still in primary fermentation (I suppose that fermentation is still going) on, 2g/100 ml (calculated from your current information) of wort should absolutely be no problem in your secondary fermentation, even with the yuzu juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For adding the DME, you will have to cook it up first in some extra water, so if you want to increase your ABV, you will have to take into account your current volume, the amount of water needed to dissolve the DME and the amount of yuzu juice to calculate the correct amount of DME needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T10:06:38.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22417" CreationDate="2018-01-22T14:06:06.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;8 PSI during primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then 12-15 PSI based on desired volumes for the style, after primary phases. If you can take gravity reading once your 80-90% of terminal gravity is the time to set carb pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reason you don't set it to the high psi right away is that c02 and pressure hinders the growth and feeding phase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T14:06:06.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22418" CreationDate="2018-01-22T14:26:25.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would do the (DME) gravity correction ASAP in primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the yuzu juice. It should list the carbohydrates amount on the label and may contribute to the priming sugars. &lt;em&gt;Most important: make sure it doesn't have preservatives, most preservatives are fermentation inhibitors.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example Sam Adams Yuzu Reserve. Says &quot;with yuzu juice added&quot; not fermented. Meaning it's added after fermentation. Usually when it's on its way to the bright tank for carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I don't think bottle conditioning will be an option for you. Yuzu does seem to have preservatives. While these preservatives usually don't kill yeast, they just inhibit growth, your bottles will be left to condition in a less than ideal environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2018-01-23T13:49:23.670" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T13:49:23.670" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22425" CreationDate="2018-01-23T09:47:48.480" Score="4" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is about creating a micro brewery. For an IPA, is it okay to do a two week primary fermentation then 1 day cold crash, carbonating in bright tank and bottling same day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15964" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2018-01-23T13:19:16.567" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T19:54:43.337" Title="About IPA maturation schedule" Tags="|ipa|maturation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2018-01-23T15:21:40.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use dissolvable labels for food service. &#xA;they dissolvable in water and do not leave a residue, and can be used with a sharpie or pen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000XARMB2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to similar product I use&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T15:21:40.483" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-01-23T15:21:40.483" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22423" CreationDate="2018-01-23T15:58:03.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good luck with starting a brewery!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A two week fermentation time is a bit long for a commercial brewery, I believe.  You can probably shave a few days to a week depending on your gravity, yeast, and pitch rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your cold crashing and carbonation time is going to depend on your equipment.  How fast can your equipment chill the volume of beer you will be producing? Obviously more volume will result in slower times.  Same with carbonation.  If you use a carb stone you can achieve full carbonation in a fraction of the time it would take with just head pressure.  Don't forget to include time for fining, as well.  That will take at least a day.  And for IPAs you need to consider dry hopping time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, depending on all the above, you may want to consider blocking out three weeks until you have more information about the specifics of your equipment and process.  You also may want to visit breweries of the size your planning and ask them--small brewers are almost always willing to talk about their process, especially if you're not in the same town/neighborhood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15943" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T15:58:03.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22423" CreationDate="2018-01-23T19:54:43.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Totally possible.&lt;/strong&gt; It's all about the style, equipment, and mostly how much yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A standard beer with low ester requirement can be fermented, fined and carbonated in litterally a matter of hours with enough yeast and right equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IPAs are best fresh but many need dry hop time which would add to your production time and is hard to rush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no reason you can't have a 2 week (even much less) brew to serve turn around on an IPA with the right recipe and full or massive yeast pitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T19:54:43.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22398" CreationDate="2018-01-24T13:17:20.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, yeast cake &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be used as a nutrient base with some caveats. It is better if it is not from a very hoppy beer if you want to use it for ginger beer using a SCOBY (the tiny little grains of gel that make a &quot;real ginger beer bug&quot;). Hops are usually tolerated by yeast but the lactobacillius in the ginger beer SCOBY can be inhibited by the hop acids. So adding any amount of hop essence will be detrimental to the bug. In my experience the yeast from a (low hop) lager brew can be strained, rinsed well and decanted a few times. Then the rinsed slurry, which is by then mostly hop free, can be boiled up and used as a nutrient base. Others I have talked to have used a teaspoon tip of &quot;Marmaite&quot; or similar yeast extract product in 2L of water with reasonable results. &#xA;It might be added that the ginger beer SCOBY seems to work well (over a period of many years) with just ground (or fresh sliced) ginger and sugar. It does take a little while to start and does require oxygen to grow. A thing often forgotten by those using a demi-john with airlock rather than the more traditional muslin covered open vessel. And keep it warmer than cooler. Above 18C is a good place to start - and 20C is often better. Ginger bug tends to &quot;hibernate&quot; below 10C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T13:17:20.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10065" CreationDate="2018-01-24T14:15:43.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most hop aroma is leached out in the first 72 hours, that's 3 days.  The books say so. Just letting you know. Avoid guessing. You dry hop after 4 days, that is when the majority of the fermentation has taken place, there now is your seven days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-01-24T15:10:12.240" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T15:10:12.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-25T18:47:13.103" Score="2" ViewCount="1162" Body="&lt;p&gt;One hears a lot of different comments regarding the use of galvanized or bronze pipe fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 50L urn as my boil tank and I want to replace the tap, but the tap is an odd size - 17mm - and I can not find a stainless steel ball valve of that size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with a galvanized washer and ring attachment I can fit a 15mm galvanized ball valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your guys comments re: galvanized pipe fittings in the brewing process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15969" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2018-01-25T19:55:09.357" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T19:55:29.393" Title="The use of galvanized or bronze pipe fittings" Tags="|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22429" CreationDate="2018-01-25T21:15:39.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;mmm interesting question. From a corrosion perspective I wanna say that is kinda risky. Galvanized steel being in contact with stainless steel is usually fine, but in this case you are also putting them under heat and acidic liquid conditions, so I'd say to best avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe consider a 17mm-to-Xmm &lt;em&gt;stainless&lt;/em&gt; fitting that can be hooked to another &lt;em&gt;stainless&lt;/em&gt; valve of size 'X'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15975" LastActivityDate="2018-01-25T21:15:39.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22429" CreationDate="2018-01-26T13:43:02.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The actual exposed area is so small, I don't think there is any risk. Things might corrode over time, but if it gets bad enough, just replace it. You can't really find a SS fitting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T13:43:02.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22429" CreationDate="2018-01-26T14:12:46.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Galvanized steel I would &lt;strong&gt;not use&lt;/strong&gt;. The galvanized plating only has a pH tollerance above 5.5 and will corrode from most wort. The part won't fail any time soon from wort, but those metallic ions stripping off will then be in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bronze also has metals you wouldn't want in beer (tin)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brass is a much better metal to use if stainless isn't an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T14:21:55.027" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T14:21:55.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22429" CreationDate="2018-01-26T14:23:15.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that from brew to brew the effect of contact with a zinc plated washer will be negligible. The zinc would (very, very) slowly dissolve under the effect of acid conditions and, generally speaking, zinc ions in solution are &quot;not optimal&quot; for yeast metabolism. But IMHO the amounts of zinc compared to the amount of yeast would again render the problem negligible.I was wondering what electrolytic effect a zinc/iron dipole might have, but again I don't suppose that would be significant of the course of 10 days or so. If the zinc washer was the only viable solution in the circumstances then I would certainly give it a go rather than not brew at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible to coat the zinc washer in (say) epoxy resin? Would it be possible to make up a suitable washer by cutting a drilling some stainless sheet? It is certainly possible to obtain stainless steel washers of various sizes online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T14:23:15.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22429" CreationDate="2018-01-26T14:31:53.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't use galvanised it will corrode rapidly below pH 5.5, also it is unlikely to be food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NEVER use bronze, it is not food safe, will corrode, contains tin and may contain lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T14:31:53.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22316" CreationDate="2018-01-26T15:50:51.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct many commercial breweries use centrifuges to clarify their beers, FourPure in the UK are one that comes immediately to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;regarding your questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)Is there any products for home use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use filters but there is not really such a thing as a home centrifuge. You could get hold of a lab bench centrifuge, but without sub-gram accurate scales you could end up with a very dangerous walking centrifuge. You can pick these up secondhand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)Can you easily make one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, not easily for a liquid solid separation centrifuge such as an Alfa Laval. They have to be incredibly finely balanced or they either shake themselves to pieces which can be catastrophic, or they just jam and break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want sediment out the suspended yeast in a bottle then a hand centrifuge could be made to hasten clearing in bottles. [&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzb12_BR-8s]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzb12_BR-8s]&lt;/a&gt; but securing beer bottles may be problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T15:50:51.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22441" CreationDate="2018-01-27T11:46:14.543" Score="1" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to pair Nelson Sauvin hops with some yeast. The hop variety is reminiscent of white wine, grapes and gooseberry. I'd love to go with a dry flavour profile, like a Belgium strong ale yeast, or something that tastes similar to French or Belgian cider. My previous attempts at picking such a yeast have failed completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it needs to ferment at 66-70°F (19-21°C). 60% attenuation or higher is fine. Ability flocculate doesn't really matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T10:14:38.960" Title="Looking for yeast with dry flavour to pair with Nelson Sauvin" Tags="|yeast|ale|belgian|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22439" CreationDate="2018-01-27T22:32:44.810" Score="0" ViewCount="1364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older packet of yeast that has been stored in the refridgerator past the best by date on the package. Is it still okay to use the yeast? Is there a way to test to make sure it's alive still? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15633" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T12:55:30.490" Title="How to check that yeast is still good?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22438" CreationDate="2018-01-28T04:17:50.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do a starter or simply &quot;proof&quot; the yeast as you would for bread before using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should run the yeast through a viability calculator to see how much you need to grow in a starter considering the age. Since proofing the yeast will only let you know some of the yeast is alive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T04:17:50.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22437" CreationDate="2018-01-29T10:14:38.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What style of beer are you planning to brew with it? I suggest picking a yeast acording to this style, not so much the hop variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belgian beer styles are usually quite dry, patially due to the yeast but also due to the ingredients used (sugars) and the low mash temps / multiple mash steps. Belgian yeasts do add a lot of flavors which might not pair well with the nelson. One Belgian yeast that comes to mind is the T58 from Safale. It is relative flavour natural but leaves a bit of peppery spiciness, could pair well with the white wine character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is a wine yeast. There are some excellent beer recipes out there that use a wine yeast. e.g: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.candisyrup.com/uploads/6/0/3/5/6035776/tripel_karmeliet_-_004a.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.candisyrup.com/uploads/6/0/3/5/6035776/tripel_karmeliet_-_004a.pdf&lt;/a&gt; uses WLP720 Sweet Mead/Wine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those temperature ranges are fine for almost every ale yeast. Most yeast will ferment well above 60%. (some Belgian yeasts in the right conditions - sugars/mash/temps - are able to attenuate over 90% )  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T10:14:38.960" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22438" CreationDate="2018-01-29T12:55:30.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With liquid yeast, you loose around 20% of viability each month after the manufacturing date indicated on the package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your yeast in  2 month old, it should still be 60% viable, thus you should be able to make a starter with it, in order to know how, check this link : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will allow you to calculate your pitch rate taking into account the viability of your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method can be to take a sample, dilute it, die it with methylen blue and count the alive/dead cells ratio under microscope to compute viability.&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.whitelabs.com/beer/cell-counting-viability-testing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.whitelabs.com/beer/cell-counting-viability-testing&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T12:55:30.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-29T17:38:34.253" Score="2" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best reading material for a starter who would like to brew good tasting beer from tropical ingredients?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15987" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T00:50:32.407" Title="Brewing beer from tropical ingredients" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22443" CreationDate="2018-01-29T21:39:30.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Experimental Homebrew&quot; by Denny Conn and Drew Beechum &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Denny I'll provide my webmoney# shortly, so you could transfer the commissions :) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T21:39:30.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22450" CreationDate="2018-01-31T04:16:40.507" Score="6" ViewCount="2163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got this cheap wood barrel that was suppose to be for aging whiskey.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y9blU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y9blU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to age my mead in the wood mini barrel. What is the best practice for doing so considering the mini barrel shown above? I have read that I should fill it, then check on it many times to refill it from some mead getting absorbed by the wood. Is there a high risk of infection? &#xA;My mead just for documentation:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qj3hH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qj3hH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15358" LastEditorUserId="15358" LastEditDate="2018-01-31T14:31:56.523" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T15:42:37.313" Title="Aging mead in a wood mini barrel" Tags="|mead|aging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9639" CreationDate="2018-01-31T11:14:59.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I flush with hot water, initially from one end of the tubing, and then, from the other end. After doing this for three years, I have yet to detect debris in the tubing. Back in the day, before adopting this procedure, I would occasionally detect signs of mold, which would necessitate a squirt of bleach, resulting in the mold promptly disappearing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem has now been eliminated. After flushing the tubing, I take it outdoors and whirl it around my head for a minute, then do the same holding the other end of the tubing. Droplets of water are just about eliminated, and the odd one remaining apparently evaporates. At any rate, no mold!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before each use of the tubing, I sanitize with Starsan solution, ensuring that all internal surfaces are subjected to at least 20 seconds contact, with the actual contact time considerably increased by the formation of foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works for me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T11:14:59.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3447" CreationDate="2018-01-31T11:40:52.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My municipal water supply is heavily chlorinated. Some mornings, the smell is exceedingly prominent after flushing the toilet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a tablet splitter from a local pharmacy, and use a quarter of a Camden tablet for each 5 gallon brew. The result is no sign of either chlorine or chloramine contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T11:40:52.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22447" CreationDate="2018-01-31T15:42:37.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a difference between new and use whiskey barrels. The reason that many homebrewers use used whiskey barrels is that a lot of the color from the charred wood inside the barrel has been taken out by the whiskey that was in there before. The other reason is that after soaking in whiskey, the inside is fairly sterile. All that booze kills the bad stuff that want to ruin your beer/mead. Putting that mead in that barrel is likely to create a mess. If the inside is charred, you'll end up with a mead that tastes like charred wood. Also, you will need to add sulfites and top up the barrel every couple of weeks with more mead and making sure your sulfite levels are maintained at about 50ppm (this level depends on pH and other factors but this is a good number to shoot for in the barrel). Do you know if the barrel is charred or just raw wood? Either is going to give you a result you might not want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T15:42:37.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5548" CreationDate="2018-01-31T21:57:52.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that my ginger bug is heartier than I gave it credit for. I was making a batch of Ginger Beer just about every 7-10 days after I first cultured the bug, and was feeding it after every batch. I'd let it sit on the counter for 24 hours after feeding to come up to temp, allow the yeasties to consume some of the fresh sugar, and then I'd pop it back in the fridge for a week or two before making the next batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've left it in the fridge for up to a month now, without any feeding; and took it out this past weekend to make a new batch. I swirled the jar on the counter a bit to stir up the little yeasties at the bottom and it was bubbling vigorously within an hour on the countertop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bug is made of a large raw, organic ginger root that I minced from the top down to the root with a food processor; pulsing the bits until I got them to desired size. The jar was sanitized before use, and I used Reverse Osmosis filtered water for the liquid base. It's now going on 4 months active, and I split the bug once to give some to friends, sliced some new organic ginger and added it to the existing bug. No added yeast other than what is found in my home/yard occurring naturally. It's going strong and making some amazing batches of GB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15575" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T21:57:52.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22102" CreationDate="2018-02-01T23:52:43.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally I decided to perform an experiment with different yeasts, including DADY yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a wort with 50% amber LME and 50% wheat LME. Centennial hops for bittering and Willamette hops for both flavoring and aroma. Initial gravity 1.050. 12 gallons divided into 3 batches of 4 gallons each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sprinkled DADY yeast on one batch, S04 on another batch and US05 on the other one. All three batches fermented well in similar times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final gravity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DADY: 1.010&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;S04: 1.012&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US05: 1.010&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color: similar for all beers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taste: (Note: I am not an experienced taster whatsoever)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DADY: base beer for comparison (I liked it :-) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;S04: A little tastier than base beer, towards a Belgian beer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US05: Similar to base beer but a little smoother&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the difference between these beers was not really dramatic. I mean, you can notice the difference, but all three beers are similar and equally good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: for the kind of beer I make, beer with simple recipes based on LME, it does not seem to make a big difference using one kind of yeast or another. I think I will keep using DADY yeast, for budget reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15148" LastEditorUserId="6534" LastEditDate="2019-09-10T17:20:25.160" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T17:20:25.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22468" CreationDate="2018-02-02T03:48:04.667" Score="0" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve got sanitizer I made before Christmas, brewing tomorrow. Wondering if it’s still effective-is there a shelf life on clean sanitizer water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13348" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T20:34:31.553" Title="Sanitizer life expectancy" Tags="|sanitizer|starsan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22453" CreationDate="2018-02-02T07:00:27.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd go with making a new batch sanitizing solution. I used to have solution on a spray bottle, and my experience was that performance degraded after a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T07:00:27.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-02T10:54:03.687" Score="2" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to give orange flavor and smell to my batch. When do you think is the best time to add it? Is it best to add orange while the wort is boiling or add it to primary fermentation? Thank you for your advices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15977" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T00:41:35.923" Title="Adding fruit to beer" Tags="|flavor|fruit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-02T13:01:01.557" Score="3" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago, I brewed a Belgian double, its done fermenting and ready for the next step. I've noticed that the beer is still very cloudy so I prefer a cold-crash/lagering period before bottling first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the 'problem': I don't want to transfer the beer twice ( primary -&gt; sec -&gt; bottling ) because of the increased risk of contamination, but also the extra work and time involved. I've cold crashed in the primary before, but once the beer is transferred afterwards, some trub and yeast still comes along and the beer would still be hazy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I thought, why not add the priming sugar to the secondary, let it cold crash with the sugar and then bottle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that the yeast would not be active at the close to freezing point temperatures. After bottling the beer warms up and the sugars get fermented. I would let the beer already cool down in the primary, so once it is combined with the sugar it is is already cool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts or experience on this method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-05T11:52:49.170" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T16:46:47.177" Title="Adding priming sugar to lagering secondary" Tags="|secondary|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22455" CreationDate="2018-02-02T13:28:34.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common practice is to add it to the last few mins of the boil to sanitise it. Fruits (especially peels I belief) contain yeasts of their own so adding them to the primary without proper sanitation could end in unwanted results. Another option is to soak them in some solution, e.g. vodka, first prior to adding them in the primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T13:28:34.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22456" CreationDate="2018-02-02T16:17:56.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;adding your sugar to secondary then cold crashing, the yeast may start eating sugar and fermenting again even at near freezing temps (not likely but possibility), and then you would need to add more sugar to bottle, but you would have to know what your SG is before and after cold crash, to calculate how much more to add. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what i would do is  transfer to secondary, cold crash, then add priming sugar then bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T16:17:56.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7607" CreationDate="2018-02-02T16:21:01.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please use the following constraint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P/100&gt;Ctl&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a bug which causes the P value to override the Ctl value. The control periode jumps to 60 seconds if you violate the expression above for Ctl=0 (0.5 seconds) and Ctl=1 second. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15996" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T16:21:01.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-02T16:38:36.263" Score="1" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to the home brewing community and have a question regarding some malts I am using on my next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After using a few beer kits from Brewers Best, I am taking a spin at trying to gather my own ingredients to brew.  I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 pound of Briess Pilsen DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 pound of Briess Bavarian Wheat DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 pound of Briess Carapils crushed malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 ounce of German Hallertau hop pellets &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safale US-05 Ale Yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional items:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Muslin mesh bag &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Priming sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is how do I ratio my usage of Bavarian Wheat DME and Pilsen DME? Should I even mix those two DME and choose one and mix it with a rice syrup solid instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going for a crisp tasting ale with body and not too over powering with the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15837" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-02-02T19:28:18.457" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T16:55:08.297" Title="How should I determine a ratio between malts?" Tags="|recipe-formulation|extract-brewing|wheat-beer|pilsner|base-malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22460" CreationDate="2018-02-03T02:40:08.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At least from the ingredients you've listed, you might want some more extract if you're making a 5 gallon batch.  From the extract kits I've done, there is at least one pound of extract per gallon.  I would recommend looking at other recipes of the size you're planning to get a handle on it that way.  LME and DME both get used a lot, so knowing &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/1348/12609&quot;&gt;how to convert quantities of them&lt;/a&gt; for your recipe can be helpful (using brewing software to do the calculations for you is also very common/helpful, especially if you're not doing 5 gallon batches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pound of Carapils is maybe okay in a 5 gallon batch but you would want to use much less if you're making something smaller.  As Robert mentioned, keeping your specialty malt (Cara- malts, chocolate malt, roasted barley, etc.) to at most 10% of the overall malt bill (by weight) is probably a good rule of thumb while you're getting a handle on the brewing process and figuring out what you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for mixing the DME, I find it useful to look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Products/Extracts.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Breiss website&lt;/a&gt; to see what the extracts are made with.  While you don't to concern yourself too much with this as new homebrewer, it might give you an idea of how many different things you'll be adding and it what percentages.  As you learn more about brewing and the different ingredients and process you can get a better idea of how to use your extracts and what beers you can make with them.  Given what you have I would probably just add all of both but if you end up getting more extract you might want to just get more of one (probably the Pilsen?) and let that be the bulk of the fermentables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for including some rice syrup solids, I could maybe see adding some to lighten your beer a bit but I'd encourage you to forgo it at first and see how close you get to what you're looking for with malt extract and then adjust from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you are doing a small batch, I'd be careful about using the whole ounce of hops for your full boil, you will want to scale that down with the recipe size as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T02:40:08.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-03T18:03:42.177" Score="1" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I m a beginner in wine making, kindly suggest should we stir the brew? If yes, after how many days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I stir or shake the brew every day or after how many days I should open the container and stir?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16000" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-02-07T17:00:19.810" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T00:17:20.043" Title="Should we stir the brew?" Tags="|fermentation|process|red-wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-04T16:52:52.810" Score="3" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am bottle-conditioning and storing beer in a storage room with temperatures reaching as low as -5°C (significantly below the freezing temperature of water). There are few sudden changes in temperature, and the beer itself does not seem to freeze inside the bottles. Already-carbonated beer that has been left there as the temperature have fallen tastes fine, but I am curious however as to what impact these kind of temperatures have on the beer - especially since I now want to bottle-condition some freshly brewed beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the yeast survive below-zero temperatures?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What eventual effects might below-zero storage have on the yeast if it recovers?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would there be a difference when it comes to the type of yeast (e.g. top vs bottom fermenters etc.), or is this irrelevant at these temperatures?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will maturation be harmed, and in what way?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the beer be affected by below-zero storage in other ways?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking forward to your comments and answers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13277" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T10:41:13.980" Title="Conditioning and storing beer at temperatures around -5°C" Tags="|yeast|temperature|bottle-conditioning|storage|conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-04T18:05:04.247" Score="4" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attenuation is the % of sugars a yeast will consume during fermentation, and is a general gauge of how much ABV will result from a specific OG solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We all know that the attenuation of a specific yeast has a % rating on its data sheet. But how is this number calculated and given an officially accepted value for its data sheet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I attended a private class at a White Labs San Diego. Hoping to get a clear answer on this. Erik Fowler was presenting and did an awsome job, and did his best to answer many of our questions. The answer I got to the my question in this case is that there is a standard wort recipe used to calculate attenuation. But he didn't know exactly what that &quot;control&quot; in the test is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question came up when we were presented a couple flights of beers using the same wort and different yeast. He made it clear that the attenuation data shown for this flight was specific to these batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel it's imprtant to know what this control recipe is so a brewer can accurately predict attenuation for a given recipe.  I'm sure the conrol recipe is something simple and a best guess of an average for most styles say a 1.040 OG, with 90% simple sugars (fermentable) and 10% complex (difficult to unfermentable). And then the fermentation conditions are ideal for a given strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since attenuation is effected by so many factors we need to know what it's rating is based on, not just an assumption that it's an average wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's safe to say any brewing yeast out there has 100% attenuation in a low OG mono-saccaride solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone knows this control recipe from an authoritative source, please post it here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T17:31:03.797" Title="What is the control recipe for official yeast attenuation ratings?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|attenuation|yeast-cultures|wyeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22463" CreationDate="2018-02-04T18:23:16.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fairly safe to say that bottle conditioning at -5°c will not yield good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even high ABV beers stored below freezing will form ice crystals and force a separation of the water and ethanol. (Eisbock)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While many yeasts can survive freezing temperatures the become dormant or have their metabolism slowed down so much they no longer perform useful fuctions to a brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if ice crystals are forming they also can form in the water inside the yeast cell and rupture the cell wall, killing the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you run the risk of bottles breaking or caps popping from ice expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T18:23:16.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22467" CreationDate="2018-02-04T19:45:36.307" Score="3" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to have a hot peppered ale from extract batch. I won't be able to make an all grain, what style do you recommend? How should I add the peppers, in secondary or primary, or into the bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15818" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-02-07T17:55:49.977" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T17:55:49.977" Title="Brewing with chili pepper" Tags="|ale|chili|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22466" CreationDate="2018-02-04T20:27:19.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many commercial examples of beers using chilli peppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most chilli beers tend to be dark ales, like porters and stouts. The roasted flavor of the malts pairs really well with chilli flavor and a little heat on the palet. But don't be afraid to try other styles! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peppers will be added either very late boil, very early on the chill, or late fermentation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding chillies at one or more of these stages, insures that most corrupting organisms that may be on the chillies are killed by high temperature or the presence of alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry or Fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry peppers will have less risk of bad organisms usually to the extent that they can be added like a dry hop, late fermentation. If they are whole dried peppers, crushing them up will give them,more surface are and unlock the flavor and heat held inside. Whole peppers will usually only give up the oils that are on the outside of the pepper for a milder heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fresh raw peppers will have a higher risk of having wild yeast or bacteria on them. These would be best to add late boil or on the chill at about 180°F. Whole peppers will also only give hints of the flavor and heat. Puree or cut up the peppers for more heat and flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the pepper a little can go a long ways, it may take a few batches until you get what works for your liking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all chilli peppers can follow the same recommendations as fruit or spice additions, as far as how and when.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T20:27:19.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22453" CreationDate="2018-02-04T20:34:31.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what kind of sanatiser it is, many will keep thier sanitising properties indefinitely and through many uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acid based sanitisers like StarSan are effective as long as thier pH is below 3.0. A simple pH test is used to check it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other sanitisers like iodine based sanitisers are intended as a single use and disposed of after 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T20:34:31.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22462" CreationDate="2018-02-04T23:24:09.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be no need to shake or stir after fermentation has started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T23:24:09.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22102" CreationDate="2018-02-05T11:13:46.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;DADY can get down to 997 it you use mash temperature that result in fewer branched saccharides, it can produce higher levels of Fusel Alcohols that most beer yeasts. This is not much of an issue for distillers as they are about to purify their product by distillation, but can affect flavour of your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see in one of your answers you did a comparision yourself between SO4, S05 and DADY. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature profile you ferment with will drastically affect the flavours  you get from your yeast. Also with DADY you can often ferment at 23C and have a brew run to completion within 4 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the coment regarding your yeast won't last for ever, it will as you can always repitch on top of and existing yeast cake, or split off 500ml of yeast slurry, and repitch it within a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many professional brewers repitch multiple times, and this is how house yeast strains are developed. I have repitched many times without any washing or seperating, 99% of the time with no issues, I just create a starter from about 500ml of slurry. But, you do risk carrying over low level contamination which can affect subsequent brews. When this happens just restart with fresh dried yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-02-05T11:13:46.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22464" CreationDate="2018-02-05T11:28:36.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have veiwed a few papers and this one contained similar proportions to other references but was the only one to contain a reference for the source of the proportions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1800776/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Isolation and Characterization of Brewer's Yeast Variants with Improved Fermentation Performance under High-Gravity Conditions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which references:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.analytica-ebc.com/index.php?mod=contents&amp;amp;method=454&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;8.6.1 Fermentability, Attenuation Limit of Wort Reference Fermentation (2002)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in the section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; Fermentation experiments. (i) Wort production.&#xA;&#xA; All-malt wort was prepared from blond malt extract powder (8.8 European Brewery Convention [EBC]; Pharma Import, Belgium).&#xA; This wort contains 90% carbohydrates, of which 1% to 2% is fructose, 5.5% to 10% is glucose, 1.5% to 2.5% is sucrose, 40% to 55% is maltose, and 8% to 13% is maltotriose.&#xA; The wort also contains 4.9% to 6.3% proteins.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is another paper that references the EBC method: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/jf3006382?src=recsys&amp;amp;journalCode=jafcau&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rapid Determination of the Attenuation Limit of Beer Using Middle-Infrared (MIR) Spectroscopy and a Multivariate Model&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-02-05T11:33:49.747" LastActivityDate="2018-02-05T11:33:49.747" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22462" CreationDate="2018-02-05T12:39:33.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using grapes, you can perform a maceration, where you will stir the solids in your must (or punch down the cap).  But this is before fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the first racking, where you get rid of the gross lees.  You end up with fine lees at the bottom of your container.  Those may be stirred before the following racking (to keep them longer), as some think it adds to the body and taste of the wine.  But this is not mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another moment people will stir the wine, is before bottling as a way to degass. Again, this is not mandatory, but some people will do it as it helps getting rid of the remaining bubbles.  However, the longer you store your wine before bottling, the less you will need to degass it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-02-05T12:39:33.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22464" CreationDate="2018-02-06T22:28:59.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to find &lt;a href=&quot;http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.1969.tb03233.x/epdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;at least one paper&lt;/a&gt; in which a standardized wort was used to classify many (153) yeast strains based on, among four other parameters, degree of attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wort used was an&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'All-malt hopped wort (specific gravity 1040, pH 5.0, attenuation limit ca. 1006) [...] prepared according to [&lt;a href=&quot;http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.1966.tb02933.x/epdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another paper&lt;/a&gt;]...'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This second paper referenced indicates that Fuggle hops were used at a rate of one pound per barrel, with resulting beers having ~20 BUs (ranging from ~15-25, and it should be noted that changes in BUs had no effect on the wort fermentability). Distilled water with 200 ppm CaSO&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt; added was used to prepare the wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it seems your intuition was pretty much right, at least in the case of this one study (just the proportion of unfermentable sugars is slightly higher, at 15%). I can't speak to whether any given yeast laboratory uses something like this as their standard (or whether they even use a single standardized wort, or rather collect data from performance in a large variety of worts), but this at least gives a precedent for use of a generalized wort to assess a given yeast strain's attenuation characteristics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things I'd like to note, as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first study I linked to rates yeast's attenuation on a scale from 1-5, not in the more familiar % range, to allow for ease in characterizing a large number of yeast strains according to a broad range of parameters (153 strains x 5 parameters = 765 data points). I can't see any reason the methods shouldn't generalize to determining the degree of attenuation as a percentage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The same paper gives attenuation data for 20 consecutive trial fermentations using one of the 153 yeast strains tested, showing the average final gravity to be 11.1 (or 1.0111), with a standard deviation of +/- 0.16 (1.0016). This equates to an average attenuation of 72.3% (&lt;strong&gt;100% x [40 - 11.1] / 40&lt;/strong&gt;). Since  ~99.7% of data points from a normal distribution should fall within +/- 3 standard deviations of the mean, we can calculate that the attenuation of this strain should be between 71-73.5% nearly 100% of the time. This seems to coincide well with the ~2-4% attenuation range you find on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.omegayeast.com/portfolio/alt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;virtually all yeast strain data sheets&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's good to keep in mind that &lt;em&gt;'official'&lt;/em&gt;, in the sense you use it, doesn't really apply here because (as far as I know) there is no &lt;em&gt;compendium&lt;/em&gt; method (ASBC, EBC, IoB etc.) for making a wort used for determination of attenuation. If you're talking about one particular yeast laboratory, their methods are more than likely proprietary, and probably use wort that is made in-house (i.e. White Labs SD has a brew-house producing for their taproom, and I'd guess this is where the wort comes from). That is to say, the official-ity of a given method really only applies within the company.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think you're exactly right to want to know the composition of the wort used to make these determinations, because knowing this allows you to guess at the limitations of the information testing these conditions gives you. It's kind of like a Congress mash: many important malt parameters are defined by this method, but many people don't know that the Congress wort is only ~8 degrees Plato, meaning you can't necessarily generalize characteristics like color and pH to a more concentrated wort. However, I think this is just another part of brewing where the manufacturer can only offer a range of expected performance (you don't see yeast companies guaranteeing the attenuation of their yeast!) and so it really comes down to the individual brewer being willing to familiarize him/herself with their particular &lt;em&gt;combination&lt;/em&gt; of yeast, wort and fermentation process to determine the best-performing strain (though the numbers provided are generally a good starting point).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remember, also, that laboratory results do not always correlate perfectly to real-world performance. The first study uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://analytica-ebc.com/index.php?mod=contents&amp;amp;method=212&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EBC 2 liter tall-tube fermenters&lt;/a&gt; for trial fermentations, which are generally regarded to give similar performance to larger fermenters. However, take as an example a finding from the first paper linked to in Mr_road's answer (which also use EBC tall-tubes): &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Under laboratory conditions, [strain one] seemed most suitable for high-gravity brewing, as it showed the best final attenuation of all the strains. However, in pilot-scale conditions [...] (using completely different parameters), [strain two] seemed to be the best variant.'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; If yeast attenuation ratings really are determined as a series of trials on a standardized wort in a laboratory setting, it's worth noting that they were probably conducted in a similar fashion and the results obtained would not &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; apply exactly to larger-scale fermentations, nor to every possible wort. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, this answer ended up taking way more time and effort than it probably should have (...), so I hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have access to the EBC Methods of Analysis, which I thought might specify a standardized wort for the tall-tube fermentation method I linked above. I do, however, have the Institute of Brewing's Methods of Analysis which, although no longer in publication, have as of 2005 been &lt;em&gt;'fully integrated with the Methods of the EBC'&lt;/em&gt;. It contains the method &lt;strong&gt;21.25 Yeast Characterization: Fermentation in EBC Tubes&lt;/strong&gt;, which is presumably comparable to (if not the same as) the EBC method. Unfortunately, it specifies only that &lt;em&gt;'hopped wort'&lt;/em&gt; is to be used, giving no further detail on its composition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;~~~&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to check out the ASBC's &lt;a href=&quot;http://methods.asbcnet.org/summaries/yeast-14.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;miniature fermentation assay&lt;/a&gt; method, which is used &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;'to compare the fermentability of yeast strains'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. The wort used is actually prepared differently than I expected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, wort is prepared using a two-step mashing procedure (45°C to 70°C). The malt type is &lt;strong&gt;not specified&lt;/strong&gt; (this method is actually also used for assessing malt performance). Wort is diluted to 12.6°P (1051 SG).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dextrose (glucose) is then added to achieve a gravity of 16.1°P (1066 SG).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wort is aerated &lt;em&gt;'at 20°C for 5 minutes with medical-grade, compressed oxygen'&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast is pitched at 15 x 10&lt;sup&gt;6&lt;/sup&gt; cells/mL and fermentation takes place at 21°C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can see this is quite different from the first paper I referenced. Note, especially, that this wort is neither boiled nor hopped. This &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be the standard to which White Labs was referring, but there's no way of knowing for sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2018-02-15T17:31:03.797" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T17:31:03.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-07T07:23:06.890" Score="1" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of my kombuchas form a strange, greenish-grey powdery substance inside them. This looks like moss or dust, and appears embedded in the transparent matrices of strands inside the liquid, although many of them sediment to the bottom as well. This substance is exclusively inside the kombucha liquid, given that the rule of thumb is that &quot;mold grows on top only&quot;, I assume it's not mold. I have also tasted this kombucha before and it tasted ok, I didn't get sick or otherwise impaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried washing the green strands off the SCOBY (they were hanging from the underside of the baby/daughter). But the next batch still developed the same growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kombucha Kamp has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kombuchakamp.com/kombucha-brewing-pictures/normal-kombucha-yeast-liquid-under-scoby#!enviragallery12082-12084&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a picture&lt;/a&gt; very similar to my issue. They claim it is not mold, but &quot;tendrils of yeast&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is yeast, how come it's so dark in color? I thought yeast had a yellowish-white color. What are they? Are they dangerous? Are they bad? Can you stop them? Why don't all my kombuchas have it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can post a photo if anyone is interested, but it would look practically identical to Kombucha Kamp's photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16009" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T12:53:17.247" Title="Kombucha has dark, green grey dust/moss inside liquid" Tags="|contamination|kombucha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22477" CreationDate="2018-02-07T13:02:03.507" Score="2" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I malted my own barley for experiment. But I've not used them yet. I mean bought castle malt and munton's Irish Stout LME but haven't used them too yet. First, I want to brew my own malted barley, if i make a mistake i will risk them. Because, there are not any homebrew suppliers in Uzbekistan to buy things easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the barley I malted (5kg) looks like caramel amber malt from appearance. But a little lighter than it. I'd like to know how much water I should use for steeping it (5kg). I'm going to use 'brew in a bag' way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your advices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15977" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T14:58:39.390" Title="Own malted barley use" Tags="|water|malt|steeping|mash-volume|barley|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22476" CreationDate="2018-02-07T14:58:39.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the water/grist ratio you want. Generally 0.33 gallons per lb is common, but much thicker and thinner ratios are used for different mash manipulations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 5kg = 11lb, 3.8 gallons = &lt;strong&gt;14.38 Liters&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T14:58:39.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18895" CreationDate="2018-02-07T19:15:55.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is your sparge run off SG (the very last wort from the sparge)? It should be much lower than your preboil SG. If not, most of your mash product will still remain inside your grain. Only 15 minutes sparging seems way too fast. Increase sparge time preferable to 30 - 40 minutes at minimum. One way of doing that is increasing grain crush. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15214" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T19:15:55.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14703" CreationDate="2018-02-07T19:23:24.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I expereienced once an issue with my bottle caps. The caps were not tight, and all the carbon dioxide leaked out, laving a flat beer. Could that be the case with you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15214" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T19:23:24.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="720" CreationDate="2018-02-07T19:44:10.027" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stick wth your hydrometer. Thats the only accurate way of measuring SG, because you are directly measuring the density of the wort/beer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on refractometer:&#xA; - be sure to stir your wort/beer well before taking out a drop. SG can vary in different parts of your kettle/ferentor&#xA; - be sure to calibrate you refractometer well&#xA; - be aware that SG readings during fermentation contains alkohol, and will disturb your reading. The real SG has to be calculated. This will never be accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have these digital options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.plaato.io/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.plaato.io/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://tilthydrometer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://tilthydrometer.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15214" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T19:44:10.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-07T20:33:07.173" Score="2" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a parts list to make a jockey box out of a spare cooler.  I noticed that both Northern Brewer and Micromatic recommend different tubing sizes for the input to the cold plate and the output from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/cold-plate-fitting-out&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.northernbrewer.com/cold-plate-fitting-out&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;vs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/cold-plate-fitting-in&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.northernbrewer.com/cold-plate-fitting-in&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why don't the cold plates use the typical 3/16&quot; beverage tubing on both sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6057" LastEditorUserId="6057" LastEditDate="2018-02-07T21:09:11.520" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T15:15:39.080" Title="Why is the tubing diameter for a cold plate different on input and output?" Tags="|kegging|tubing|serving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22488" CreationDate="2018-02-08T12:49:48.813" Score="1" ViewCount="1449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a yeast on the trub from my 5 gallon batch fermentation. I want to reuse it for my next batches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that ok if I add all of this yeast to my next batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there any proportion I should follow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15977" LastActivityDate="2018-02-10T21:30:16.050" Title="How much yeast can I reuse from the last fermentation?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|pitch|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22475" CreationDate="2018-02-08T12:53:17.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I grew Kombucha it looked quite like the pictures supplied. Kopmbucha is a SCOBY that does not conform to any one typical shape or colour pattern. I have often heard the growing SCOBY compared to an exotic &quot;jelly fish&quot;. I have also heard it said that different colours can develop with different fermentation basis. Some of the colours are definitely pH dependant and change as the SCOBY produces more acids. Over time different organisms (bacteria and yeasts) can develop in the SCOBY these are rarely (if ever) dangerous but may bring some different morphologies and colours. Indeed the growth of the SCOBY can make biological assemblages that diffract or absorb light - which will alter the overall colour of the biome. The main point about a SCOBY is that it tends to &quot;oscillate around a mean&quot;. It is rarely looks the same from week to week but it remains essentially the same thing. I suppose rather like LEGO bricks - one can arrange the components into a variety of shapes but they still retain the basic properties and functions whatever the whole thing looks like.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T12:53:17.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22460" CreationDate="2018-02-08T16:55:08.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a 24L batch of extract lager beer I often use this recipe. It can be modified as wished but it gives a guide to what can be done. The hops can be changed for any similar amount of &quot;nobel hops&quot; but this mix gives a light clean hop taste and mild aroma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;40g Hallertauer-Herbrrucker boil for 45 minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15g Tettnang boil for 15 minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.5Kg extra pale DME&#xA;(This might be split 50/50 for wheat and pilsen extract, not a problem. 2Kg will give a lighter beer and 3Kg will give a beer with more &quot;mouth-feel&quot; and higher ABV)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.5Kg Glucose (or more if you like a higher ABV)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Safale23 lager yeast but Safale05 would work too or try WB-06 for Bavarian wheat or K97 for a less attenuated Belgian wheat beer style)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fermented for 14 days cooler than hotter. 15C - 17C is not a bad temp range. It can go colder but may take longer. Try not to ferment at 20C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;150g dextrose priming sugar before bottling (for approx 48 bottles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T16:55:08.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-08T19:29:29.343" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about getting into home-brew but due to space constraints likely only have room for a 1 gallon setup (and that's all the beer I need anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I go that route, though, I wonder if getting a smaller set-up will have any impact on the quality of beer I'll be able to produce, and what my options may be for a robust process where space is limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16012" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T17:08:49.093" Title="Quality of beer produced from 1 gallon equipment vs more heavy duty equipment" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22485" CreationDate="2018-02-08T19:48:28.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Work hygienic, and try not to splash with your mash or wort. That is the main point in getting a quality brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started also in the kitchen brewing batches of 4 to 5 liter. The advantage is that you can do a whole lot with things from your kitchen. In the meantime I moved up a little bit, but I still brew mostly 5 to 8 liter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of brewing small is that it is easier to do more brews, and you have shorter brew days. I prepare my water and my crushed malt the day before, and then start the next evening around 5 PM, and I am finished between 9 PM and 10 PM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing small makes it also easier to move things around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T19:48:28.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22485" CreationDate="2018-02-08T20:29:35.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue you will probably notice (assuming you're in the US) is that most of the extract kits you can find in stores are 5 gallon kits. Ordering 1 gallon kits will be more pricey ($14 for 1 gallon extract kit vs $31 for 5 gallons).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest challenges in your environment will be light and temperature. Light is bad for beer and bad for fermentation. The smaller batch size means the fermenting wort will be affected more by temperature fluctuations. One way to help address both of these issues is with a Neoprene sleeve. It will help insulate the wort from temperature changes and light during fermentation. The problem that can arise with this solution is visualization of the fermentation process. I rely (probably too much) on what is going on with my soon-to-be-beer visually. I know about how active my main-stay brews should be, the colors and smells, and the trub at the bottom.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your space, don't be afraid to brew up! I have two 5 gallon carboys sitting nestled on home-built shelving in the least visited area of my basement with the wall-studs supporting the back and a strap to keep them from accidentally getting knocked off. Getting the 5 Gallons to the upper shelf is physically demanding. Luckily, I can handle it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be afraid to look around and see what other homebrewers are doing. Zymurgy Magazine even has a &quot;pimp my system&quot; section where you see new and innovative things people are doing. If you like/understand coding... some of the Raspberry Pi setups are incredible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T20:29:35.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22482" CreationDate="2018-02-08T21:53:22.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No specific proportion. Quite a few people reuse the whole &quot;yeast cake&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few gotchas, though. One of them you kinda mentioned - it's not just yeast in the &quot;cake&quot;, but all other stuff you don't want to bring to the next beer, like hot/cold break, grain particles, hop material. Another gotcha is that yeast in the cake is usually tired: it depleted nutrients, and is stressed from presence of alcohol and lack of oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, after reusing various proportions of yeast cake over the years I discarded the whole idea. I'd rather make a starter from a test tube in my yeast library, and get fresh actively fermenting yeast that I'd pitch. That &quot;actively fermenting yeast for pitch&quot; seems to be an important thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, Hieronimus in BLAM describes how monks scoop the yeast krausen from fermenting beers (almost with buckets) and pitch it to a next brewed wort. Obviously, for that you need to have a strong pipeline of brews using the same yeast, which is not always achievable at home, but you get the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T21:53:22.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22482" CreationDate="2018-02-09T00:39:34.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mr Malty yeast &lt;a href=&quot;http://mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;calculator&quot;&gt;calculator&lt;/a&gt; (need flash installed) has an option to calculate how much yeast cake you should re pitch.  Its a ballpark estimate since one yeast cake isn't the same as the next, buts it at least attempts to quantify how much you should use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also scoop up some of the cake, put it in a glass jar with some water and shake it up, and watch it settle over a few hours or days.  In the first hour, most of the trub will settle down.  Then, like a light dusting of snow, the yeast layer will settle on that.  Maybe there will be some other layers of stratified combinations of yeast and trub, but for the most part the stuff that settles first is mostly coagulated proteins / break material and hops aka trub.  That stuff isn't going to help your next batch, and might even affect the flavor. This glass jar experiment is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://homebrewacademy.com/yeast-washing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;yeast washing&quot;&gt;yeast washing&lt;/a&gt; if you do it with sterile water and a clean environment, can get pretty pure yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there is possibly a greater risk of contamination if you go through steps to transfer yeast cake, wash it, reuse it.  It also is another thing to keep clean and worry about.  In the past I have dumped fresh wort right into the same fermenter on top of a cake (lazy way - also this is almost guaranteed to be overpitching, and get a less than healthy fermentation because the yeast doesn't replicate enough and its stressed out yet because theres so much of it it works so fast it blows up and is done too quickly and has done a sloppy job without cleaning up).  I've also dumped 1/3rd of a yeast cake into a clean fermenter, the idea being that I get most of the top layer of yeast cake, and not the trub at the bottom layer.  The best method for reusing yeast cake that I have found it to add some wort or beer, and slightly roll it around to get just the top layer of yeast off the cake and less compacted.  Sort of a &quot;wash in place&quot; if that makes sense.  Then dump that into my new aerated wort.  I think its a good balance between effort and acceptable results.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When almost all professional breweries repitch, they either get the top krausen during peak fermentation, which is all nice active top of their game yeast, or else after fermentation they can drop the trub out the bottom of their conical fermenter, toss it, and finally after the trub layer is drained out the bottom it starts running clean yeast, they keep that part and use it immediately, or within a week or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to brew every weekend, and would have yeast cakes to repitch onto most of the time.  Usually up to 3 generations before I'd want to switch strains.  I probably saved a hundred bucks on not buying new yeast every batch, but I was never completely satisfied with my re-pitched brews and think this may have been part of the reason.  If you're as cheap as me, its very tempting to repitch, but I think the best chances of making an award winning beer would be to buy the right amount of fresh liquid yeast and pitch properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14448" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T00:39:34.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3000" CreationDate="2018-02-09T06:58:23.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I'm a microbiologist and brewer. Bacteria will not GROW in pure Honey but they can survive.  When honey is diluted to make mead it's party time for bacteria! Heating honey by boiling may kill some bacteria but spores can survive (including Clostridium). To kill spores you need a temperature of 121C sustained for a minimum of 20 minutes. This is typically accomplished with steam under pressure as in an autoclave (or pressure cooker). Boiling will obviously blow off volatile flavour components but will not by any means toxify the honey. I'm not saying that making mead with raw honey with a heavy dose of yeast (to overwhelm bacteria) is going to kill you. However I'm guessing that if it did kill someone they aren't posting here to warn us!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16015" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T06:58:23.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22493" CreationDate="2018-02-09T22:34:53.590" Score="4" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've encountered several commercial beers with peanut butter flavor and I'm interested in making something similar but I'm not 100% sure how to go about it.  I've seen reference to peanut butter powder but I'm not sure if this is the recommended way to do it or, even if it is, if there are other methods worth considering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to commercial and home brewers generally add peanut butter flavor to beer and what other prominent options exist?  Is there a straightforward way to process peanuts at home to add them to beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2018-02-11T17:46:13.560" Title="How is peanut butter flavor added to beer?" Tags="|recipe-formulation|adjunct|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22498" CreationDate="2018-02-09T22:44:47.370" Score="2" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any research showing how carbonation develops over time on average?  I'm imagining a graph with the number of days since packaging on the x-axis and the current level of dissolved CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; on the y-axis.  I'm particularly interested in standard bottle conditioning as well as the &quot;set and forget&quot; method of force-carbonating kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure this varies somewhat by the yeast strain, yeast health, temperature, ABV, and other factors, but I would imagine some kind of data like this probably exists for a fairly common set of assumptions (e.g. US-05, 68°F, 5% ABV, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T15:25:48.020" Title="Carbonation level over time" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22491" CreationDate="2018-02-09T23:24:11.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;PB2 peanut powder is what a local brewery was using to make there peanut butter stout. It makes sense to use powdered VS regular, regular has a lot of fats and oils in it, that would be bad for carbonation and head retention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T23:24:11.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="720" CreationDate="2018-02-10T00:17:46.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have suggested, a refractometer is probably the way to go.&#xA;However, if you've just broken a hydrometer and want to get your SG &lt;em&gt;right now&lt;/em&gt;, you should be able to use a scale. I haven't tried this myself, so I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the average kitchen scale will yield results that are less precise than a hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the mass, volume, and temperature of a sample of your wort/beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;density = mass / volume&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SG = density / (density of water at that temperature)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a water density calculator here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/water-density-specific-weight-d_595.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/water-density-specific-weight-d_595.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick google search didn't turn up anything about other people doing this, so perhaps there's a fatal flaw in this method that I'm not seeing. I will do some experimenting tonight to find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It seems like the margin of error with typical kitchen measuring equipment is way too large to even get in the ballpark. For example, for one solution, I measured 1.053 with a hydrometer and 1.13 with a scale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16017" LastEditorUserId="16017" LastEditDate="2018-02-10T03:02:04.863" LastActivityDate="2018-02-10T03:02:04.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-10T16:04:58.837" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had by home brew sitting at 19c for 4 days now but there are no bubbles showing in the air Lock I opened the lid slightly to look inside I can see the yeast floating on top and there's a fairly strong smell of beer. Do I need to do anything or just leave it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16018" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-02-10T23:41:39.527" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T00:21:45.253" Title="I've had my home brew sitting at 19c for 4 days now but there are no bubbles" Tags="|fermentation|airlock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22495" CreationDate="2018-02-10T17:24:37.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a gravity reading. Write down the gravity. Is it already in a reasonable range for a finished beer? Anything of 1.014 or lower should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you take a reading of the Original Gravity (OG)? Is the new gravity reading different? If yes, your yeast is working. If there is no change between the OG and the current gravity, your yeast may be dead. You should pitch another yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast may have died if you pitched it when the wort was too hot or if the yeast was uite too old or improperly stored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2018-02-10T17:24:37.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22482" CreationDate="2018-02-10T21:30:16.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I do to save money is pull 3 to 5 liters of my cooled wort aside to make my starter.  I pitch the yeast in this while my wort cools to its desired temperature, then pitch the whole starter when it is at high krausen, usually the next day or so.  This gives me the best results yeast-wise and saves me money on DME.  Pitching a starter made with new yeast at high-krausen will give you the best results overall.  I think this is called a &quot;viability&quot; starter.  Using a stir-plate will get you there faster but isn't truly necessary if you don't have one.  Until I started using this type of starter all of my beers had a residual sweetness (that I didn't like) that I attribute to under-attenuation.  My last four beers I've done this way and none have any residual sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13916" LastActivityDate="2018-02-10T21:30:16.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22492" CreationDate="2018-02-11T16:14:29.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottle conditioning is simply just more fermentation. To quantify how much CO2 is produced at a given time is subject to all the variables of fermentation. Yeast health, cell count, temperature, available fermentable sugars etc. So to graph this in a useable way would be next to impossible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Force-carb plug and forget. This too is subject to all the different ways it can be done. Diffuser stone, top down, bottom up. Keg dimensions and volume play a big role too. I've not seen any carb charts published in a consolidated way to cover all methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm not in a rush for the beer, I feel a top down plug and forget for a week+ gives the best results. Also helps as a final fining for a brilliantly clear beer. Top down carb seems to aid the settling of clouding particles. That being said, a bottom up carb will help keep those hazy particles up for that NE IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T15:25:48.020" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T15:25:48.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22491" CreationDate="2018-02-11T17:46:13.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most will treat the dehydrated peanut butter just like any other spice, nut, fruit addition. &#xA;Either  Late boil, on chill, or late fermentation. Or combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-11T17:46:13.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-12T13:06:11.977" Score="1" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you experienced the feeling that you open a bottle of your homemade wine and it seems to be a different wine from other bottles of the same batch? I have noticed the difference from one day to the following, so it is not a matter of aging. I know that wine flavor may depend on the context, for example, what you are eating or what you have eaten, but I have noticed big differences in the wood tannins presence, for example. Any explanation or it´s just me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15148" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T18:22:46.273" Title="Same wine, different taste" Tags="|bottling|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22500" CreationDate="2018-02-12T15:46:42.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bottle wasn't sanitized properly you may be tasting some off-flavors from bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link is based on off-flavors of homebrewed beers but may be similar to wine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.kegerator.com/off-flavors-in-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://learn.kegerator.com/off-flavors-in-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing what type of flavors you were tasting would narrow down exactly what went wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15521" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T17:18:48.057" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T17:18:48.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22500" CreationDate="2018-02-12T18:22:46.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once a bottle of wine is put in the bottle, it becomes it's own ecosystem subject to whatever bits and pieces of dirt, dust and other crud (insect parts!) that you didn't fully clean out. It's also subject to whatever is in your corks. The most common problem for a winery is bottle variation due to corks. Corks can have the largest impact on wine post bottling. It's important to use the highest quality cork you can afford (or use screwcaps) and make sure you thoroughly sanitize every bottle. But even then you can have the occasional off bottle. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottle_variation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a quick wiki&lt;/a&gt; article on the topic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T18:22:46.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-12T21:03:52.180" Score="2" ViewCount="1110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just made a nice pot full of wort with expensive malt and hops. I pitched the yeast and two days later, no action. I'm pretty sure the yeast is dead, expired, no good. There is no brewing supply near me and the online stores require minimum purchases, minimum S&amp;amp;H and are a week away. Yikes! Can I buy a bottle of beer where the final fermentation was done in the bottle and use the sediment? If so, what's a good brand for that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16022" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T12:12:47.840" Title="Can I use yeast from a bottle of beer?" Tags="|yeast|reuse|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22503" CreationDate="2018-02-12T21:09:21.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is a common method of getting yeast for a particular style of beer.  A few things to note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's not much yeast in a bottle - so most people use a starter to grow up a larger culture. However since your beer is already ready, I'd suggest instead getting a few bottles to increase the pitch (I'm afraid you'll have to drink the 'waste' beer!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to choose beers with a long use-by date to get more live yeast - and avoid ones that have been left in warm, sunny places in the shop. Most people recommend sterilising the top of the bottle when opening/pouring it to ensure no bad bugs get picked up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick a style of beer close to your beer - so don't use a stout for a lager, or a saison for an IPA (unless you want to mix things up!). Also be aware that if you do aim for a particular style, some breweries use a different yeast for bottling than for brewing, so you might get a high carbonation, low flavour, high flocculation yeast if you're unlucky (Though it'll still be beer!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15922" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T21:09:21.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22503" CreationDate="2018-02-12T22:46:59.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, can you please elaborate on the &quot;no action&quot; observation: how did you conclude there was no action in the fermenter? Just &quot;no bubbles in the airlock&quot; doesn't count, as your fermenter may be not completely airtight. Best of all, you should have checked the original gravity of the wort, so you could compare it to the current and see if it decreased. If you didn't do so, check if there is a foam head (krauzen), and check whether the wort became murky from wort. There may be some action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of that is the case, and your wort is completely dead.. Tbh your best course of action is to find some (any) ready-to-use brewing yeast. If I didn't have any brewing yeast around, I'd probably pick distiller's yeast (first choice) or even baking yeast (second choice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is.. the wort is not 100% sterile, at best it's sanitized. Which means there is some level of random household bacteriae/fungi from the beginning. Should you have pitched a healthy dose of yeast, that yeast would have eaten all sugars, leaving nothing to &quot;weeds&quot;. Making a healthy dose of yeast from a bottle is possible, but it's not a 1 day job (and perhaps not even a 3 days job): there's very little yeast in a bottle, it's very dormant, you need to grow it using step starters -- and all this time your wort will sit there, increasing a chance for developing an infection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was writing the above paragraph, I thought of a way to buy yourself a bit of time. You can re-boil your wort briefly and pour it into a food-grade temperature-stable airtight container, ideally leaving no air at all, screw the lid, turn it upside down, to get the lid sterilised by the hot wort. Well, you need to have such a container in first place. Here I'm describing briefly the &quot;no chill&quot; technique popular among homebrewers in Australia. It effectively makes &quot;wort preserve&quot;. Then you can shop for yeast or play with growing your own from a bottle. The downside is that such preservation increases chance of Maillard reactions, so your beer will become a bit darker and more oxidised (but hey, it's still gonna be beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T22:46:59.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22511" CreationDate="2018-02-13T11:25:38.873" Score="4" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering using some green tea to flavor my last batch of yuzu-wit beer.&#xA;I was wondering if anyone ever used tea for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first idea is to put the tea in a hop sac with some weight to make in sink and to put it in secondary fermentation for 2-4 days just before bottling.  How does that sound ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, i'm worried about contamination from the tea, should I freeze the tea ? sink in vodka (wouldnt that make it loose its flavors ?) ? or just pitch it and hope ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T17:25:50.800" Title="Use of green tea to flavor beer" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|flavoring|tea|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22481" CreationDate="2018-02-13T15:10:29.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They step down in size to &lt;strong&gt;help prevent&lt;/strong&gt; overcarbonation at the end of the line. For when a keg is on a jockey box for several hours at above normal pressures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer flows easier and with less pushing pressure the larger the line is. The more  diameter step downs to the final diameter at the tap the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why you will see many jockey boxes start at 1/2 or 9/16 out of the sankey keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would still recommend using beer gas, if you think a single keg would take more than 4 hours to kick. Or you will just blow foam towards the end from overcarbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T15:10:29.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22523" CreationDate="2018-02-13T17:07:13.793" Score="2" ViewCount="828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious if anyone has any information about beers susceptibility to infection over time/stages of fermentation?  My understanding is than beer becomes less susceptible over time but I specifically concerned with what it is susceptible to.  With this information I feel like one could troubleshoot the stage at which a beer was contaminated better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ex. If a certain bacterial/wild yeast can only propagate enough to contaminate a beer with a minimum residual sugar.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15636" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T15:51:25.547" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T15:52:12.800" Title="Beer's susceptibility to contamination over time?" Tags="|contamination|bacteria|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22485" CreationDate="2018-02-13T17:08:49.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make the same quality beer in a 1 gallon system as you can in a large even commercial system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really the only con is the volume size, when you make beer you usually want more than the 10-12 beers a 1 gallon system will yield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is much easier at 1 gallon. Simple things like maintaining a mash temperature become more and more difficult the larger the system gets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do 1g batches usually with just a few low cost purchases. Medium stove top pot, BIAB bag, 1g glass wine jug, airlock, hydrometer, few flip top bottles is really all you need to do all grain brewing at that size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you want to upsize your volume, maybe look into the Grainfather brew system. Very compact, easy to use and can yield 5g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T17:08:49.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22507" CreationDate="2018-02-13T17:10:39.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of this being done a couple different ways but more or less the same set of variables as with adding coffee to beer.  Adding the tea to secondary for a few days to effectively cold-steep there is a decent option and should work out fine.  Weighing it down in hop bag may not be a bad idea but probably isn't super necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alcohol already present in the beer during secondary &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be enough to take care of anything that might be introduced with the tea but you could also consider rinsing it with near-boiling water for maybe 10 seconds before adding it to try to quickly kill anything that might be on the leaves.  Many people that drink loose-leaf tea do this anyway to remove any pesticides that might be on the tea and to &quot;open up&quot; the tea leaves before the full steeping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is adding pre-made tea (hot- or cold-brewed) directly to the fermenter which has the benefit of being pretty well-tunable to the amount of tea flavor you want.  Take a sample of your beer (or one from a prior batch) and figure out the proportion of tea to beer that gives you the flavor you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also make a tincture by soaking the tea in vodka for a few weeks so that the flavor will be extracted by the alcohol and add that.  This is generally done with herbs but I believe it should work for tea as well.  Even if you were just soaking the tea leaves in vodka temporarily to kill bugs I think you'd still want to add the vodka and all to the fermenter to keep anything that was extracted by the alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, you have several options and they should all be pretty safe and repeatable so long as you measure things out carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2018-02-13T17:25:50.800" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T17:25:50.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5917" CreationDate="2018-02-13T17:30:33.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you are on the right lines. Wikipedia on sweetness of wine says &quot;How sweet a wine will taste is also controlled by factors such as the acidity and alcohol levels, the amount of tannin present, and whether the wine is sparkling or not. A sweet wine such as a Vouvray can actually taste dry due to the high level of acidity. A dry wine can taste sweet if the alcohol level is elevated.&quot; quoting pages 198-199 of Peynaud, Emile. The Taste of Wine: The Art and Science of Wine Appreciation. Introduced by Michael Broadbent. Translated by Michael Schuster. San Francisco: The Wine Appreciation Guild, 1987 as the source but I don't have that book. I would also be interested in hard numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16029" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T17:30:33.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22509" CreationDate="2018-02-13T19:44:19.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The worst bacterias and fungi that could destroy your beer are most likely to impact your beer in the early stages of fermentation because the yeast has not had time to establish itself in large numbers yet. Once your chosen yeast has had time to establish and propagate, it becomes harder for outsider organisms to compete. In addition to competing for resources, the alcohol produced by the yeast which increases each day until fermentation ends could kill any unwanted organisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some bacterias and fungi that work well with certain types of yeast like lactobacillus. Sometimes these infections are intentional but a lot of the times, they are not. To avoid these kinds of infections, keep your equipment clean, only use it for beer, and replace your plastic equipment frequently. Also starters are great to insure your yeast is plentiful and healthy enough to make a strong establishment in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a hard time finding resources to back up this knowledge that I've just picked up through the years. Most of this is just common knowledge among brewers. I did find this interesting experiment to test the competitiveness of certain yeast strains and their fitness levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21863493&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21863493&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T19:44:19.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22519" CreationDate="2018-02-13T23:12:33.480" Score="2" ViewCount="1414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tasted a wine that has much silkier tannins than I've ever tasted before.  Is there a way to quantify the 'silkiness' of tannins in that wine vs another?  Is it the average length of the tannin molecule? Would I need a gas chromatography mass spectrometer or some kind of fancy piece of equipment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I measure tannins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T17:59:44.347" Title="How to quantify tannin level in red wine?" Tags="|red-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-14T06:52:52.167" Score="1" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at what yeast need to live and nanners seem to have a fair bit of that. I have seen a lot of information on adding them for flavor. If nothing else I will be trying this soon and will update with results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16031" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T16:04:55.843" Title="Mead made with bananas as a nutrient" Tags="|wine|mead|brewing|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5917" CreationDate="2018-02-14T09:38:36.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alcohol in itself is not sweet, like sugary sweet. But alcohol definitely contributes to the body of a beer, like residual sugars do. In my opinion this is the main factor higher alcohol beer are experienced as sweeter besides the residual sugars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stronger Belgian styles like a tripel have relative low FGs (e.g. down to 1.008 or less) but a high alcohol content. This keeps the beer in balance and keeps it 'drinkable' or 'digestible' as the Belgians call it. On the other side there are British ales with low alcohol but high FG. Also balanced.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The term balanced suggest other styles are 'out of balance' which sounds negative but this of course comes down to beer style/personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T09:38:36.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22518" CreationDate="2018-02-14T11:23:02.973" Score="2" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been wondering for a while, and not least now that I've found a post here about how to solve my calibration issues on the Sestos S1D PID, whether the ambient temperature surrounding the mashing container will effect the container in such a way that I may need to recalibrate depending on season?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Iceland and I usually brew on my balconies. This means that I'll be brewing in temperatures ranging from -5°C to maybe +15°C. I have a 50 liter steel pot and a 5500 W element. I usually mash with around 35 liters in the pot, excluding grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To formulate my question specifically: Would a 20°C difference in ambient temperature significantly alter the mashing temperature or would the PID be able to keep it under control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16030" LastActivityDate="2018-02-24T17:00:11.647" Title="Effect of ambient temperature on mashing pot" Tags="|mashing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22517" CreationDate="2018-02-14T14:52:32.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as the temp controller it doesn't care what the ambient temp is, unless the ambients exceed the tollerance of the controller IC it's self. Dry -5°c shouldn't be an issue with it working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you have to consider the exposes areas of the pot are a huge heatsink. Insulate it the best you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your biggest concern would be cold spots, mainly the edges and top.  A recirculating mash or often stiring will help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If left to only diffuse heat from the element, the mash in close proximity to the element may reach denaturing temps trying to heat to where the temp sensor is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-02-24T17:00:11.647" LastActivityDate="2018-02-24T17:00:11.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22514" CreationDate="2018-02-14T15:22:10.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measuring Tannins in wine is a complicated process and needs a lot of chemical analysis in a laboratory. It can be done, but not within reach of your average person. Here is a snippet from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.awri.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/measuring-wine-tannins.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pdf&lt;/a&gt; on the subject:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wine total tannin: Tannins are a sub-class of phenolics that can&#xA;  precipitate proteins. They contribute to wine texture, particularly&#xA;  astringency. When grapes are crushed, the tannins present in grape&#xA;  skin and seeds begin to be extracted into the grape must. Those from&#xA;  skins tend to be more easily extracted than those from seeds. Once&#xA;  extracted, the grape tannins begin to chemically rearrange, turning&#xA;  into wine tannins, which can be significantly different in structure&#xA;  from the original grape tannins. &lt;strong&gt;Wine tannin concentration is reported&#xA;  in g/L in epicatechin equivalents&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A method to measure tannins in wine is called the MCP (methyl cellulose precipitable) tannin assay it is a simple and robust means of measuring&#xA;the total grape or wine tannin in red grape homogenate extracts, red wine, and other aqueous solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find the convoluted procedures &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.awri.com.au/wp-content/uploads/mcp_fact_sheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt; It's really not as easy as they make it out to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, it's a pretty subjective exercise. Each person perceives tannins differently. So, outside of a lab it's nearly impossible to quantify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-02-14T17:59:44.347" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T17:59:44.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22515" CreationDate="2018-02-14T16:04:55.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Banana does have a couple of the nutrients yeast needs. Potassium, folic acid, magnesium etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most fruits lack FAN though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said &lt;strong&gt;bananas wouldn't be a complete replacement for a yeast nutrient product.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T16:04:55.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22522" CreationDate="2018-02-14T18:32:41.013" Score="3" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought 30 feet (~10m) of 3/8'' (9.5mm) copper tube, and before coiling it, I would like to get advice if it will work for a 10 gal (~50l) batch, what I'm asking for is if anyone has had experience cooling 10 gal(~50l) batches with a 25 or 30 feet chiller (I still can go back to the store -which is far away from home- and buy some more tube)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer from @BobTheAverage seems to say 30 feet would be ok: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/20543/immersion-wort-chiller-length&quot;&gt;Immersion wort chiller length&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16034" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T15:54:06.230" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T15:54:06.230" Title="Wort chiller length, will 30 feet work for a 10 gallon batch?" Tags="|chilling|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22521" CreationDate="2018-02-14T19:08:25.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will always work, the difference is how much time we save or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 25' 1/4&quot; wort chiller works better than I expected, 15 minutes to cool 5 gallons.  Your 30' 3/8&quot; should work very well, 15 to 20 minutes maximum I would guess.       &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T19:08:25.747" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22509" CreationDate="2018-02-15T00:08:12.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer: Beer is susceptible to whatever can live in the wort/beer given it's specific condition at the time.  As fermentation continues, fewer and fewer micro-organisms are able to colonise the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wort-production process gradually increases the sugar content, and importantly lowers the pH of the beverage as each stage progresses.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's lots of interactions happening during the mash, where the bulk of the changes happen.  One of the major pH drops is from precipitation of phosphates and other minerals.  The next step, boiling further acidifies and concentrates the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the boil, the wort is sanitary, and commonly hops have been added.&#xA;It has (or should have) an acidic (low) pH around 5.2 - 5.4.&#xA;The sugar content varies, but an &quot;average&quot; beer commonly has a specific gravity around 1.050.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the yeast is added, the wort is a moderate sugary liquid.  All sorts of bacteria and fungi are happy to grow in this, especially if it is warm.  The brewer needs to keep this in sanitary conditions to prevent the entry of unwanted micro-organisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast is then added (now the wort is beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast consumes the sugars quickly, using oxygen, and producing ethanol &amp;amp; CO2.  But it also further drops the pH.  The yeast is making a liquid that is hostile to other micro-organisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually most of the simple sugars are converted to ethanol.  During this process the yeast has also absorbed ammonium ions and excreted organic acids - this is where the fermentation pH drop comes from.  By this time nearly all of the dissolved oxygen in the liquid is gone.  The finished beer should have a pH of around 4.5 (lager), with ales being a little more acidic (down to 3.8).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, The yeast &lt;em&gt;over-time&lt;/em&gt; changes its environment to somewhat perfectly suit itself, but also against others.  So ideally a quick fermentation is best.  The low pH on its own prevents lots of spoilage organisms that cannot survive in the relative acidity.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at some common spoilage micro-organisms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetobacter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Acetobacter&lt;/a&gt; - this likes to convert ethanol into acetic acid,  but it needs oxygen.  In the initial stages of fermentation the oxygen is quickly used up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactobacillus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lactobacillus&lt;/a&gt; - converts sugar into lactic acid.  The hops contain compounds which help prevent many different varieties of lacto' growing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pediococcus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pediococcus&lt;/a&gt; are a very a common source of beer infection, they are a type of Lactobacillus.  Unfortunately they are not so effected by hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a really complicated subject, I hope I was able to explain things in a somewhat simple manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further Reading:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/article/the-principles-of-ph/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/article/the-principles-of-ph/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/proper-boil-ph/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://beerandwinejournal.com/proper-boil-ph/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Lactobacillus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Lactobacillus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://draftmag.com/brettanomyces-lactobacillus-pediococcus-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://draftmag.com/brettanomyces-lactobacillus-pediococcus-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update after comment/question&lt;/strong&gt;: One further source of infection can be from different sub-species of yeast.  Generally speaking, common brewer's yeast only ferments simple sugars (up to 3-glucose-molecule sized).  So the yeast may have fully done it's job, consumed everything it can, and thus the beer is &quot;finished&quot;.  But other yeasts, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brettanomyces&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brettanomyces&lt;/a&gt; in particular, are able to consume  larger sugars.  So theoretically, brettanomyces could colonise finished beer, fermenting the remaining sugars.  Same as other yeasts, &quot;brett&quot; converts the sugars in to CO2+ethanol, but it also produces different (perhaps unwanted) flavour compounds.  If this is happening in a bottle, it may cause excess carbonation and significant changes in sweetness.  In pre-&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_Pasteur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Louis Pasteur&lt;/a&gt; / pre-&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emil_Christian_Hansen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Emil Hansesn&lt;/a&gt; times, most beer probably always contained some level of this yeast. But now-days, modern beer is (for the most part) a single-strain fermentation (or at least controlled-strain combination).  There are a some contradictory examples to this statement (lambics, sours, etc.), but the statement is essentially true:  The vast majority of modern beer is a controlled environment process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this is a homebrew Q&amp;amp;A, I want to add this:   Despite all the things that can theoretically happen, generally with good sanitation practices and an adequate amounts of yeast, your beer will ferment beautifully. Just like it has been doing for thousands of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T15:52:12.800" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T15:52:12.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1769" CreationDate="2018-02-15T00:14:16.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That hefeweizen banana flavour is quit elusive isn't it !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a wheat beer it's OK to put them in at the end of the boil, say at 5 minutes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a ~20 litre batch, I like to add a pair of quite ripe bananas, mashed with a fork (not black bananas, spots ok, not off) at 5 minutes.  This gives a slight banana aroma and flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like this because it's simple, and reduces the risk of infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard you can also add up to 5% dextrose to help the wheat beer yeast go a bit crazy during initial fermentation, and enhance ester production.  I am yet to try this though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T00:14:16.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22495" CreationDate="2018-02-15T00:21:45.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Airlock activity is also a measure of how well your bucket/carboy/barrel/etc is pressure-sealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's yeast activity (foam, bubbles, etc.) and a beery-aroma, it's going well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would wait 2 weeks before doing anything.  I expect you could then take a gravity reading and find the beer is finished.  If you really want to, take a reading at 1 week.  But be sure keep everything sanitary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if it's 4 days in and there was no yeast (not pitched, or no vitality), it would probably be already colonised by something nasty anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T00:21:45.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22462" CreationDate="2018-02-15T00:31:24.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In beer making, it's not uncommon to stir the yeast, &quot;rouse the yeast&quot; during the initial few days of fermentation - but &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; if you did not use enough yeast, or some other problem happened (like your temperature went very low).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This moves the yeast off the bottom of the vessel (where it &quot;flocculated&quot; to), and re-mixes it with your beverage.  It helps kick-start a sluggish fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, If you pitched enough yeast, I don't think you need to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the problems that can arise, is that it's introducing oxygen back into the young wine (which the yeast removes).  In the initial stages this is OK, but in the longer term, allows for the growth of spoilage micro-organisms, like acetobacter.  Plus there's a chance the simple action of opening the vessel will allow the ingress of further micro-organisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-02-18T00:17:20.043" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T00:17:20.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22455" CreationDate="2018-02-15T00:41:35.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use only the orange zest, and put it into the hot wort when the boil is complete (at &quot;flameout&quot;).  Use only the skin of the orange that is coloured, not the white underneath (the &quot;pith&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bitter oranges like Seville are typically used for better flavouring, but you can use everyday oranges too.  For a first go, I would use more rather than less, as fermentation (or whatever) drives the flavour off. Say at least the zest of 4 oranges in a 20 litre batch.  But 8 would not be out of the question either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, you can always put it in at the end-stages of fermentation, but I have no experience in this with oranges.  This is typically recommended for fruits with a less robust flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T00:41:35.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22443" CreationDate="2018-02-15T00:50:32.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual answer to this question is the book &quot;Designing Great Beers&quot; by Ray Daniels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is not a beginners' book on brewing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For new brewing advice, &quot;How to Brew&quot; by John Palmer is very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer, assuming you mean brewing with tropical fruit: make a beer, then in the last stage of fermentation (after 1 week say) add chopped fruit into the fermenter.  This is a somewhat safer time, since the beer is already low-oxygen, and low-pH. This helps protect it from infection from micro-organisms on the fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any since &quot;tropical&quot; typically indicates a high ambient temperature - don't brew beer unless you can keep the temperature under 20C (around 18C is better).  Beer fermented at ambient summer temperatures in the tropics is difficult to get a pleasing result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T00:50:32.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22503" CreationDate="2018-02-15T12:12:47.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, yeast can be recovered from bottles of &quot;live beer&quot;. IIRC, Cooper's is an example of an Australian brand that has live yeast in the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However beware as some companies micro-filter the beer to remove the yeast used to brew and then bottle the beer using a high flocculation yeast to improve beer clarity on consumption. So it is possible that the yeast from the bottle, while being active, is no the strain of yeast used to brew the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also worth noting that the yeast recovered from a bottle has to be grown further in a starter culture (with oxygen/air and nutrient available) as there will not be enough yeast present to correctly initiate fermentation. It is not usually possible to empty a live beer into a wort and find it will ferment &quot;optimally&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails and the need is great - use baking yeast or even a wine yeast. I often use a champagne yeast to ferment a light, dry beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T12:12:47.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="720" CreationDate="2018-02-15T13:51:20.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refractometer that others mentioned here are very easy to use. Since there are many correction calculators available online, the error of reading won't be terrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems that no one suggested the use of &lt;strong&gt;pycnometer&lt;/strong&gt;. I believe it is most precise &quot;tool&quot; for estimating gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way it works is similar to what @mboren described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T13:51:20.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15782" CreationDate="2018-02-18T00:11:46.627" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the 1 week stage: &lt;em&gt;do not worry&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's still there in a few weeks, sure, worry then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All sorts of weird flavours come off yeast when it's actively fermenting.  For example lager yeasts can just smell plain rotten (eggs, sulphur, ick!), but afterwards you get beautiful clean beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget about it for a week (or even 2), and start planning your next beer to keep your mind occupied!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T00:11:46.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16210" CreationDate="2018-02-18T00:35:40.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jsled covers it pretty much already.  But I'd like to add that it's not uncommon to force-carbonate beer in standard PET bottles.   A stainless steel &quot;carbonation cap&quot; is screwed onto the bottle.  This allows the connection of the gas line directly to the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is useful for carbonating small batches, or correcting the CO2 level of beers poured off a keg into the bottle - especially if sent in for a competition.  Just connect it up, and leave it at serving pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T00:35:40.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22536" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-18T08:02:11.177" Score="4" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if you guys use any home malting equipment. Or is there such equipment available for homebrewers? I'd like to use automated malting equipment up to 25kg-50kg/batch. If you know such equipment, please share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15977" LastActivityDate="2022-12-01T05:15:29.167" Title="home malting equipment" Tags="|equipment|malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22536" CreationDate="2018-02-18T14:01:00.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a bit of home malting. Nothing automated except the drying process in a dehydrator. Some people have created rotary malting machines that rotate the grain. That is so you don't have to turn it by hand. But you'll need to build it yourself. I did a pretty extensive search into this last year and there is nothing available to the home maltster. You can get commercial equipment but it would take up quite a large space in a warehouse and cost a lot of money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Malting at home is fairly easy and you can do quite a lot with simple tools. Drying is the tricky part and home dehydrators are perfect for this. Some people turn old clothes driers into dehydrators. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T14:01:00.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22538" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-18T18:56:59.320" Score="2" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the last minute today during brewing I decided to try a hop stand but I didn't do it properly and am a bit worried about the effect it might have on the bitterness of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I did was at flameout I added 40g of Galaxy and 10g of Chinook. I left that sit for 15 minutes. My error there was that I didn't cool the wort at all before attempting the hop stand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this mean that my additions at flameout are more like additions at 15 minutes? If so according to brewersfriend the IBU will be around 150!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16040" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T14:27:38.357" Title="Might have over-bittered" Tags="|ibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22548" CreationDate="2018-02-20T15:16:38.057" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suggested fermentation temperature on the beer kit is ambient temperature or its the temperature reading on fermentation bucket? Also i am not able to keep steady ambient temperature as our flat's heating system is not modern it changes during the day, what effects that will have on my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Additional information:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Temperature difference between wort and surrounding is generally around 3°C, and ambient temperature of the room also changes around 2°C throughout the day. I made couple of batches in these conditions they turned out ok, but I am wondering how important to control temperature precisely and will it really improve the quality; is it worth to make some investment for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8309" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-02-20T20:38:06.693" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T15:36:42.413" Title="Suggested fermentation temperature for the beer kits" Tags="|fermentation|temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22539" CreationDate="2018-02-20T16:09:29.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the temperature differences are not that significant it will be fine. The beer takes a lot of time to change temperature due to its large volume, so usually over the course of a day it would not have the same temperature swings as its surrounding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The suggested temps are of the beer itself and don’t forget the fermentation process produces some heat at its peek, so storing it some degrees lower could be a good idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve done kits without heating/cooling, usually in a bathroom space where temperatures are relative stable throughout the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2018-02-20T16:09:29.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-20T17:40:43.030" Score="3" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;In chemistry there exists a conical base funnel for separating heavier fractions.&#xA;What i would like if anyone knows of one is a large version of this 1 gallon or larger.&#xA;Reason is that when siphoning i often stir up a lot of sediment (shaky hands) i have to waste approx 20 % of my brew to avoid this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am reliably informed by a chemist that this is a better way when dealing with fractions with little density difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15911" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T22:23:30.747" Title="Separating funnel" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22541" CreationDate="2018-02-20T20:43:26.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a conical fermenter is what you need.   There are some on ebay, but you should check with your local brew store.  Although, I have never used one, they seem very well made if you are willing to pay.  Most have a sediment collector at the bottom with a valve that you can open/close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See some examples here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/bhp/conical-fermenter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ebay conical fermenter&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I particularly like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/9-25-Gal-35-L-Fermentasaurus-Conical-Fermenter-Keg-King-Home-Brew-Craft-Beer-/312065955985&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fermentasaurus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-02-21T12:50:13.780" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T12:50:13.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22544" CreationDate="2018-02-21T07:49:02.550" Score="4" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been brewing beer for a few years. In my experience, bottle conditioning introduces unintentional flavours. It makes it very hard to make anything lighter than an IPA, IIPA and barley wine. The flavour from conditioning will dominate. I recall getting typical combinations of sweet, brown sugar, caramel, liquorice and sour (lime). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typical get worst result on sucrose (table sugar made from beet sugar) and using residual yeast. Typically Mangrove Jacks M44 or Safale US-05.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the least amount of flavour additions when using DME in combination with Safbrew F-2. Honey also does a pretty decent job.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I condition at 21°C for 2,5-3 weeks depending on the gravity (and style) and then refrigerate it. I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend priming calculator&lt;/a&gt; to get the amount to prime. I do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; adjust the amount to prime depending on the gravity of beer (perhaps I should). I don't have a problem with &quot;exploding&quot; bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I've only tried to bottle condition with table sugar, honey and DME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="15826" LastEditDate="2018-02-24T21:33:27.930" LastActivityDate="2018-02-24T21:33:27.930" Title="Unexpected flavours after bottle conditioning" Tags="|yeast|bottle-conditioning|ipa|ale|pale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22543" CreationDate="2018-02-21T14:10:16.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottle conditioning, not to be confused with bottle aging, is only for natural carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to use a monosaccharide sugar like powdered corn sugar so it's easily and completely consumed by the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using DME, honey or anything more complex will leave unfermentable sugars and other compounds in the beer, resulting in flavor and mouthfeel changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T14:10:16.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22538" CreationDate="2018-02-21T14:27:38.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making late hop additions your times need to include all the time isomerization can occur for IBU calculations. Basically whenever the wort is above 175°F. Any addition of 45 minutes or less need to consider chill time, anything above 45 minutes is considered fully isomerized and wouldn't be effected by more time in hot wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where good knowledge of your brew systems chill time is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many well-known IPA recipes have large aroma additions at 1 min or at flameout. I've seen many snafus happen when a chill doesn't go as planned and those IBU estimates based on 0 boil time turn into a few minutes converting unwanted alpha acids into IBU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T14:27:38.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22541" CreationDate="2018-02-21T14:53:04.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A separatory funnel really isn't practical for brewing. You can get very large ones 1g or more, however they work on the same principles that happens in your fermentor. The solution still has to settle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conical fermentors have this feature of being able to remove the heavy liquid (trub) before the lighter liquid (beer). From the base or have a racking arm that can be positioned just above the trub to get the beer out first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using spidels, carboys or buckets as fermentors. We apply a couple tricks to remove the beer first while leaving the trub undisturbed. Carboys are nice because you can see everything making it easy to have you racking cane above the trub. But all of them benifiet from a long clear hose on the racking device that can be pinched off when you see trub. Slowly tipping the fermentor towards the siphon pick up helps get that last bit of beer without any trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T14:53:04.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-21T14:58:48.647" Score="4" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question involves fermentation of an ale recipe into a lager. Is it possible to brew an ale recipe and then ferment it with a lager yeast at lagering temperatures? Will the fermented wort have the qualities (taste and color) of a fermented lager?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16060" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T15:37:15.720" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T12:35:38.857" Title="Making a lager from an ale recipe" Tags="|lagering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22539" CreationDate="2018-02-21T15:07:03.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reading to monitor and maintain is the temperature of the beer, not ambient temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even temp readings on the outside of fermentors from thermal stickers can vary a few degrees to what the core temp in the middle actually is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewers never regret the investment into good temperature control based on thermal wells with a temp prob in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T15:07:03.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22547" CreationDate="2018-02-21T16:03:20.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can take an ale recipe and use lager yeast at suggested temps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for taste, it will depend on your recipe. Yes, the yeast imparts flavor to your beer, but, you can't make a medium body ale and expect a light lager at the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T15:38:04.860" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T15:38:04.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22539" CreationDate="2018-02-21T16:22:42.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After sanitation and brew day process, fermentation temp is pretty important. &#xA;but not as important as keeping it stable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When i started brewing, i would just put my buckets is any stable temp room. but what really brought my quality up was keeping my buckets in a big tub of water to keep it cooler then amb. temp and to keep the heat from going up and down too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T16:22:42.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22551" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-21T19:41:58.767" Score="2" ViewCount="1085" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to homebrewing. I've just done my 5th batch a few days ago. I came across the term partial boil when watching a homebrew video on kettles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not quite sure if what I do is considered a partial boil, here's my all grain BIAB process. I use a 20 litre &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring 8 litres to 74 degrees C. &#xA;Add the bag of malt and the water lowers to 68 degrees C&#xA;Sparge and reach the boil volume in the kettle of 14 litres&#xA;Start 60 minute boil where volume lowers to 11l (the fermenter target)&#xA;Add hops etc&#xA;Cool&#xA;Rack and pitch yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a partial boil? My confusion is that there seems to be a lot of talk around the subject of 18-20 litre kettles not being able to do full boils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16040" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T16:00:01.637" Title="Confused about what partial boil means" Tags="|boil|partial-boil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22551" CreationDate="2018-02-21T20:10:34.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Partial boil refers to when you boil a certain volume of wort smaller than the desired batch size, then top off the fermenter to reach the full volume. &#xA;This is often done when you have smaller pot for boil than for fermentation. For instance when I started brewing I would boil about 10 liters then top off to 19. &#xA;Partial boils can affect hop utilization (drops) and IMO flavor. Here’s a blog post on it. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fermentationriot.com/blog/?p=147&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Partial boil effects&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="3453" LastEditDate="2018-02-22T16:00:01.637" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T16:00:01.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-21T20:30:49.140" Score="3" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed this recipe multiple times and has always turned out great, well balanced with bitterness, flavor and aroma. This time it is showing low IBU's even though I used same hop schedule and amounts. &#xA;IBU calculation shows 72 but tastes like a beer with 35 IBU's. &#xA;Centennial for bittering 60 min (1.6 oz.), Amarillo and Citra (.25 oz each at 20 and 5 minutes), then Cascade (2 oz.), Citra (.5 oz.), Amarillo (.5 oz.) and Centennial (.4 oz) at whirlpool&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total 6 oz hops to 5.5 gallon batch&#xA;1.062 OG finished at 1.012&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to increase hop presence before serving this Friday evening?&#xA;Any suggestions appreciated!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16059" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T11:48:58.180" Title="Help! Brewed same IPA recipe multiple times and this time not as hoppy!" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22553" CreationDate="2018-02-22T04:02:04.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your finishing gravity always that high?  Seems a bit high given the OG and the residual sugars could affect perceived bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer is finished, there is no way to add real bitterness.  You could dry-hop with a couple OZ of Citra &amp;amp; Amarillo but it will only add aroma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="3453" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T11:48:58.180" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T11:48:58.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22553" CreationDate="2018-02-22T15:37:27.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;IBU perception can vary a lot but what you're estimating is about half the IBU making this IPA more like a Pale Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everything was &quot;the same&quot; for this brew. &lt;strong&gt;I'd say you had old hops.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When repeating recipes it's important to record Alpha Acid % of your hops, so they can be adjusted in future batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the age of the hops has a big effect too. There are hop calculators to help compensate for the effective AA fall off from age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You can actually back bitter at the cost of some dilution.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;Boil a couple cups of water with your desired hops in a bag. 45 minutes will give max bitter, any longer isn't needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: I've made hop soda this way in a coffee maker, 2oz hops for 12 cups. Then added this to 4gal of water and 1 cup sugar to corney keg and carbonated. This method seems to bitter about as much as a 15minute addition will, but that's just an estimate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T15:37:27.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22551" CreationDate="2018-02-22T15:43:51.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Partial boil is a method of boiling a concentrated version of your wort, then adding this wort and new water to the fermentor to get your desired volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example it's a way to get 5 gallons of beer in a single brew with a 3 gallon pot. So you would boil 2.5 gallons wort with an OG twice what the recipe calls for then mix it with 2.5 gallons of water to get your 5 gallons of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case if the desired end volume is 11L and doesn't call for water blending. Then your brew is full boil, not partial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T15:43:51.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22543" CreationDate="2018-02-23T15:12:02.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have actually had pretty good experiences with beet-derived sugar. Do you by any chance sterilize your sugar by boiling sugar water or by heating the sugar? Sweet, caramel and burnt sugar tastes can come from actual burnt sugar, I have made that mistake once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T15:12:02.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22539" CreationDate="2018-02-23T15:36:42.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation can generate large amounts of heat, it is well worth the investment in good monitoring and control systems for the temperature of your brews. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will often get good results without temperature control if your room is at a moderate temperature, but consistency between brews will not be there without good control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T15:36:42.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22541" CreationDate="2018-02-23T15:46:49.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other answers, but though I should give you a few extra links so here we go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can purchase such large separating funnels off &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/152771636006&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ebay&lt;/a&gt;. But, there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/FastFerment-53ltr-Conical-Fermenter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;larger fermenters&lt;/a&gt; that follow the same principle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ssbrewtech.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SS brewtech&lt;/a&gt; also make a really nice range of conical fermenters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T15:46:49.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-23T20:42:51.863" Score="1" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;0&#xA;down vote&#xA;favorite&#xA;Full disclosure: Not an electrician, mostly clueless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting: Home Brewing Beer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short: 120v DC variable drive motor running full tilt when 240v AC 5500w element is connected to mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long: I have a 50 gallon brew kettle with a 240v 5500w AC heating element. The element has variable power supply. Recently I added a 120v DC variable speed motor to agitate the mash (stirring 50 gallons of mash by hand gets really old). The motor work appropriately when the heating element is not attached to a power supply; I can adjust the speed of the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the heating element is attached to its power supply, the agitator motor runs at full speed, and cannot be adjusted. I spoke with the manufacturer and they suggested that I have an electrician come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My house was built in the 20's and has lots of &quot;character&quot;. Many of the circuits are not grounded. That being said, I am (fairly) certain the circuit that the agitator is running on is grounded, as well as the heating element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts? Places to start trouble-shooting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16069" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T02:03:35.723" Title="120v DC Agitator 240v element" Tags="|all-grain|electric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22562" CreationDate="2018-02-24T01:36:11.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your agitator motor connection. How many wires does it have? Where are these wires connected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you've wired your agitator motor in such a way that when you turn on your heating element, your agitator motor takes the voltage from the heating element as well. So when you adjust your voltage on the agitator motor, it doesn't do anything because it's using the voltage from the heating element (you've connected it in parallel so your original connection of the agitator motor is bypassed so changing its voltage don't do anything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't have anything to do with your home wiring. It's got to do with your brewing wiring - your control panel wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your agitator motor is only connected to 1 circuit where it goes to 1 voltage source. Don't connect your agitator motor parallel with your heating element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16070" LastEditorUserId="16070" LastEditDate="2018-03-02T02:03:35.723" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T02:03:35.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-24T14:05:13.803" Score="1" ViewCount="692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a big batch of Mead for my wedding, but in the coming months I've got two options, ferment at around 75° in my apartment, or throw it in a temp controlled fridge current being used to dry meat which is sitting at around 58° is fermenting at that temperature going to impart any really bad off flavors or is it close enough to be okay? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14947" LastActivityDate="2018-02-24T16:19:24.857" Title="Mead: fermenting too cold" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|mead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22564" CreationDate="2018-02-24T16:19:24.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;58°F is kinda a hard temp to work around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Little too warm for a clean Lager yeast fermentation, little too cold for Ale yeast to be happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to use a massive pitch of ale yeast at 75°. Doing a multistep starter or using a yeast cake will do well. The goal is to skip the growth stage and have enough yeast for it to do the job without much growth and the esters it brings.  A fast warm fermentaion may bring I some fusel alcohols, which isn't always bad for a mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-24T16:19:24.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-24T17:42:20.140" Score="1" ViewCount="489" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will we have problems with this:&#xA;About 2-3oz of Sanitizing solution got sucked in to the 5 gallons of beer during transfer to the bottling bucket. It was Chemipro Oxi and was diluted to 1 Tablespoon per gallon of water. It is a non-rinse sanitizer that is made from Sodium &#xA;Percarbonate. &#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16073" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T17:58:41.050" Title="Chemipro Oxi Solution sucked in to beer during transfer" Tags="|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4478" CreationDate="2018-02-25T19:29:05.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As kids, we used to grow a ginger beer &quot;plant&quot; up from Ginger &amp;amp; Sugar and a few &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sultana_(grape)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sultanas&lt;/a&gt;.  Every couple of days we would add a bit more sugar-water to it.  There were no real measurements, but I know for sure we did not add any yeast other than what was on the skin of the dried fruit. (Obviously if it grows a chunky black &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/search?biw=1246&amp;amp;bih=906&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=1&amp;amp;ei=0A2TWouCJ8WK8wWZqJbgAQ&amp;amp;q=pellicle+beer&amp;amp;oq=pellicle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pellicle&lt;/a&gt;, you don't use it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many recipes for ginger-beer plants on the internet include adding a teaspoon of bread-making yeast, I really think this makes the whole production of the &quot;plant&quot; pointless, as you can just put the yeast directly into the ginger sugar-water (~wort).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally wild yeasts (i.e.: from sultana skins) are &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/naturally-a-bit-wild/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reported&lt;/a&gt; to ferment with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saison&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saison&lt;/a&gt; like characteristics.  Of course there would be some bacteria in there too - brewing as 10-year old kids, there probably was not any real sanitation practices, sure we used a clean glass, and maybe washed our hands beforehand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the alcohol tolerance with wild yeast is unpredictable. Typically bread yeast finishes out at approximately 14% AbV  (or at least it does so in meads).  Whereas wine yeasts, particularly champagne will stop at higher levels.  Fermenting at higher temperatures will also produce many more esters (flavours) from the same yeast strain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think one of the best methods to make soft-drink (soda) ginger beer is to use PET bottles.  Twice a day squeeze the bottles.  Once they have become hard (with CO2 pressure), put them in the refrigerator.  It gives you an idea when they are good to drink, and reduces the amount of alcohol to the minimum needed to achieve carbonation.  Note: this only &lt;em&gt;slows&lt;/em&gt; the fermentation, it does not stop it.  Or if you're going for high-alcohol, just release the pressure and re-cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-02-25T19:59:54.933" LastActivityDate="2018-02-25T19:59:54.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22569" CreationDate="2018-02-26T02:57:00.350" Score="2" ViewCount="707" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a extract-based brown ale that needs about another 1-2 weeks in primary before I bottle it. I'd like to add some pecan flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on other things i've read (including &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10365/hazelnut-brown-ale-what-extract&quot;&gt;Hazelnut Brown Ale - What extract?&lt;/a&gt;), I'm thinking about doing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chop/smash and roast some quantity of pecans (maybe 1lb?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover them in vodka to extract the flavor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let that sit for the next 1-2 weeks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a small amount of the extract when bottling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this seem like a reasonable plan? Any thoughts on quantity of pecans and extract? I want to get some of the flavor without overpowering the brown ale (which look like it might hit 1.020 final gravity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also see (on the web):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/pecan-pale-ale.81224/#post-861259&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;directions for roasting pecans&lt;/a&gt;; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/pecan-scottish-80.49707/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;similar directions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipe/512-brewing-co-pecan-porter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a recipe for Pecan Porter&lt;/a&gt; that calls for 12-16 oz ground pecans in the mash (too late for doing that, though that suggests a quantity of pecans)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16077" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T16:21:34.473" Title="Adding pecan flavor to brown ale" Tags="|nuts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22568" CreationDate="2018-02-26T05:02:28.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overall, that seems like a solid plan.  A pound of pecans seems reasonable enough and if you end up with excess extract you can always save it for a later batch or anything else that could use some pecan flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of determining an appropriate amount to add to your beer, the best method is probably to measure out small quantities and try small mixes until you find a ratio that fits the level of flavor you want.  If you have a beer that's similar to the one you're making on hand you can use that as a base beer, or you can take a sample of the beer you'll actually be adding it to and try it that way.  Using a small syringe to measure out 1/2/3 mL of extract at a time and mixing that with static amounts of beer is probably the most accurate method in terms of being able to scale it up to the full batch size.  But as long as you have some repeatable way of measuring small amounts of the extract you can then do the math to figure out how much you need to add to the whole batch to achieve the effect you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be a little tedious but can eliminate a lot of the guess-work, especially if it's easy enough for you to make a lot of extract.  Especially since someone else's extract might not have the same strength/quality of flavor as yours and the amount they like might not be the same amount you'll like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T05:02:28.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22568" CreationDate="2018-02-26T16:21:34.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nuts are kinda hard to get flavor and aroma to infuse into the beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get much more character from nuts if they are blended into a slurry then added late fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a blender with boiling hot water (to pastureize). Use enough water so the slurry pours easily. Let cool to fermentation temp so you don't kill yeast when adding to fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T16:21:34.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22566" CreationDate="2018-02-26T17:58:41.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;About &lt;strong&gt;Sodium Percarbonate&lt;/strong&gt; (2 Na2CO3 + 3 H2O2) on wikipedia: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dissolved in water, it yields a mixture of hydrogen peroxide (which eventually decomposes to water and oxygen) and sodium carbonate (&quot;soda ash&quot;)... The rate of decomposition increases with rising temperature (2 H2O2 → 2 H2O + O2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 3oz of this sanitizer would yield less than 2oz of water and 1oz of oxygen, and some sodium carbonate. All this dilluted in 5 gallons of beer.  I do not think it will make any significant changes to yeast or oxydation.  I do not know how long it will take for the hydrogen peroxide to decompose, but the higher temperature of bottle conditionning will help...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About &lt;strong&gt;Sodium Carbonate&lt;/strong&gt; (soda ash) on wikipedia :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is also used as a water softener, since carbonate can precipitate the calcium and magnesium ions present in &quot;hard&quot; water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the acidity of the beer be changed to the point of being vulnerable to infection, again I don't think such a small quantity will make a significant change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T17:58:41.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22541" CreationDate="2018-02-26T22:23:30.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If shaky hands are your problem, you might want to try a racking cane clip and possibly a racking cane tip. They'll cost a lot less than a conical fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cq5yD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cq5yD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t3yng.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t3yng.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T22:23:30.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12677" CreationDate="2018-02-26T23:26:38.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks OK - it's quite common for bits of yeast to still be floating on the top of the beer.  If you &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/search?q=beer%20pellicle&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV55WR28TZAhWLu7wKHTocBgAQ_AUICigB&amp;amp;biw=1246&amp;amp;bih=901&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;search google images for &amp;quot;beer pellicle&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;, you'll see what a contamination can typically look like - it depends of course, but commonly they are a grey-white web-like filmy layer.  Light-Brown foamy bubbles are krausen (yeast + brew residue foam), which typically rise up initially, then sink back down as fermentation progresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving the lid unsealed only adds an extra risk-factor to getting infected,  it's not a sure thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take a sample just before committing on the raspberry.  After 11 days fermenting, the base beer should be quite close to finishing.  If the beer tastes OK, it &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; is OK.  Obviously also check the gravity at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:31:49.150" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:31:49.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13356" CreationDate="2018-02-27T00:07:09.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Denny Conn suggests in his response, the simple answer is to leave the beer on the yeast for longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the secondary fermentation stage, the yeast is still working.  part of this includes &quot;cleaning up&quot; some undesirable by-products of fermentation.  I would guess that it is some of these compounds you can smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dropping the temperature to 25F / -4C will almost certainly make the yeast go dormant.  This means they're all falling out of solution, and not finishing the fermentation properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, take your beer out of the refrigerator, just the movement might be enough to re-incorporate some of the yeast (do not splash, you don't want more dissolved oxygen at this stage) and leave it for a week.  If you don't want to just &quot;leave it&quot;, then regularly take a sample until you're happy with the flavours.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not necessary to move the beer off the yeast as soon as primary fermentation finishes.  It's OK to not even check beers until 2 weeks have past.  If you must do it, ensure good sanitation and try to prevent any excess contact with air, as you do not want oxygen in you beer at this stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further Reading:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thekitchn.com/what-is-happening-in-your-beer-now-secondary-fermentation-the-kitchns-beer-school-2015-217263&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What Happens During Secondary Fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T00:07:09.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-27T03:08:00.603" Score="3" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchase a digital refractometer and use an online calculator to convert the ºBrix value to SG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, at what temperature is the resultant SG calibrated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16082" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2018-02-27T13:15:14.493" LastActivityDate="2018-03-03T09:20:53.110" Title="Temperature calibration of ºBrix to SG conversion" Tags="|hydrometer|gravity-reading|refractometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22578" CreationDate="2018-02-27T11:29:00.350" Score="9" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I so far brew beer using two different beer brewing kits. One required adding honey, the other sugar, for the bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all - isn't this breaking the reinheitsgebot? As a German I feel obliged to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't the dextrose produced during mashing be sufficient for sweetness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again I read that the sugar added during bottling is supposed to increase carbonation - not sweetness. But how would sufficient carbonation be ensured without adding sugar (sticking to the reinheitsgebot)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(my question might seem dogmatic but I am more interested in understanding the underlying processes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16084" LastEditorUserId="16084" LastEditDate="2018-02-27T12:08:29.963" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T17:45:24.833" Title="How can I prime bottled beer in accordance with the reinheitsgebot?" Tags="|carbonation|sugar|priming|sweetness|reinheitsgebot|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22577" CreationDate="2018-02-27T11:50:36.940" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Priming with sugar would break the reinheitsgeboten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way you want to go is to retain unfermented mash and add it when bottling takes place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a really handy calculator right here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/gyle-and-krausen-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/gyle-and-krausen-priming-calculator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16030" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T11:50:36.940" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22575" CreationDate="2018-02-27T13:11:08.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both Brix and specific gravity are temperature sensitive but the conversion seems to be independent of that fact.  That is, if you start with the correct value in Brix, your converted SG value will be correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you will want to make sure that your Brix value is temperature adjusted before you do the conversion.  From what I've heard, refractometers usually adjust for temperature automatically.  So provided yours does as well, you should be fine with just using the straight converted value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were using different methods for measuring your OG and FG, I suppose it's possible that you would need to take this into account.  For example if you used a refractometer for your OG that was normalizing the Brix value to 70ºF, and a hydrometer for your FG that was calibrated at 60ºF, I suppose some error could be introduced that might be worth accounting for.  But in practice this should be pretty small.  And generally people will use the same method to obtain their OG and FG so any small differences that might arise between methods should balance out if you're being consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T13:11:08.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22577" CreationDate="2018-02-27T17:53:11.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to not break the Reinheitsgebot rules is to use malt extract. Either liquid or dried. Simple as that. Many people do this and most homebrew books have a way to calculate the amounts. Malt extract is derived solely from malt sugars. Therefore, in essence it is barley and water and then dehydrated. So all you are left with is unfermented wort (with or without hops). This does not break the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way to do this is to cask condition during fermentation and bottle under pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-03-05T17:45:24.833" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T17:45:24.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10376" CreationDate="2018-02-27T23:29:09.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I watched a brewer vigorously churn his near boiling hot wort (insert and raise the wort chiller (copper coil) repeated times to crash the temperature from the boil down to near pitching temperatures... think churning butter image, that is what he was doing.  Also watched as he transferred from primary to secondary with the hose a foot off the bottom of the vessel being transferred into.  I expect the same happens when he transfers into the serving keg.  Then his practice (like many of us) is to force carbonate his kegs with 40 psi and shaking the hell out of the keg.  My guess is that he never purges the air out of the keg with C02 before the shaking of the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All of these errors in practice will oxidize your beer&lt;/strong&gt;.  He asked me why all his beers seem to have a distinctively similar taste...oxidation.  Just those sloppy practices is all it takes to ruin a likely good batch of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16086" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2018-02-28T16:31:58.397" LastActivityDate="2018-02-28T16:31:58.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22547" CreationDate="2018-02-27T23:32:02.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done it.  Tastes and smells like a lager.  I liked it better than the ale version but I think I just prefer lagers.  Pitch a lot of yeast if you decide to try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13916" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T23:32:02.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14661" CreationDate="2018-02-28T03:03:21.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the last two 5 gallons batches of 14 % apple wine that I made , I left the tannin out to cut down on the bitter taste . Both got stuck at about SG 1.020 . I have been making wine for 12 years with tannin and never had a stuck fermentation . Starting SG 1.106 &amp;lt;&gt; Starting acid 3.45 &amp;lt;&gt;yeast , Lalvin Ec 1118 &amp;lt;&gt; Dick Benham &#xA;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16087" LastActivityDate="2018-02-28T03:03:21.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22575" CreationDate="2018-02-28T18:20:07.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Conversion from Brix to SG doesn't require temp adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only the reading you measure needs to be adjusted for temp. Or better yet zero out your refractometer with distilled water that's the same temp as your wort. Do this easily by letting both the wort and distilled water sit at room temp until even, then calibrate, then take reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: SG scale is based on water of 1.000 @ 4°C or 39.2°F, but this is just where they choose to call 1.0, it could have easily been 100°F to call 1.0. So knowing what the scale is based on has no relevance in gravity calculations. &#xA;So &lt;strong&gt;a converters calculation of SG isn't based on any calibration temp at all, it's not an issue of the scale, only measuring devices.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-03-01T15:20:26.450" LastActivityDate="2018-03-01T15:20:26.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22575" CreationDate="2018-02-28T23:36:21.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the answers from @Evil Zymurgist and @thesquaregroot have missed the point. Nowadays, for brewers at least, the SG of a sample is conventionally reported as its density relative to water at 20 degrees Centigrade. If the standard was defined at a different temperature then the specific gravity value would most likely be different since the thermal coefficient of expansion of the sample and water are usually different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you should realise that Brix is a measure of the concentration of a sucrose solution and is inferred by the refractometer by the measurement of refractive index. Since you're measuring an unknown mixture of sugars converting refractive index to Brix to SG is an approximate measure in anycase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that the calibration temperature is whatever is used by the online convertor. However it would be suprising if it was anything other than 20ºC since the ASBC, EBC and IoB all use a definition of specific gravity that has a reference temperature and measurement temperature of 20ºC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastEditorUserId="13805" LastEditDate="2018-03-03T09:20:53.110" LastActivityDate="2018-03-03T09:20:53.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22577" CreationDate="2018-03-01T11:41:36.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a portion of wort and prime with this. This is how almost all German brewers who do not force carbonate prime. To comply with Reinheitsgebot the forced carbonation must be done with CO2 recovered from the brewing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't store wort for long periods of time, but ensure they brew on bottling day and mix cooled wort with fermented beer as packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-01T11:41:36.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22591" CreationDate="2018-03-02T09:58:26.643" Score="2" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrZPLF0ezw8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;water displacement method&lt;/a&gt; for sealing leftover hops? I realise you'd normally want to keep hops pretty far away from water. But you also want to keep it far away from O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; as well. Squeezing zip lock bags seems common enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just had a delivery of last years hop harvest and it didn't come in bags that are suitable for resealing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="15826" LastEditDate="2018-03-02T10:40:42.367" LastActivityDate="2018-03-03T13:48:56.570" Title="Storing leftover hops using water displacement method" Tags="|hops|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22588" CreationDate="2018-03-02T10:36:45.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah sure, I don't see why not. The hops are probably not sinking as easy as the steak, but it will still work if you be careful enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But also I'm thinking that you won't notice a difference between a bag that contains 2% O2 and another one (without the water displacement method) that contains 20%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you going to freeze the hops afterwards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16088" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T10:36:45.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22577" CreationDate="2018-03-02T10:44:27.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a German I don't get the hype about the Reinheitsgebot. I think it was a nice invention back then and sure is a good marketing thing nowadays. You should read into why the Reinheitsgebot was originally introduced and think about its relevance in present days. I personally just like a good flavoured beer and am open for new creations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people also think the Reinheitsgebot was the biggest attack on European shamanism. But that's pretty esoteric stuff....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, back to topic: I think what most people here explained is the German &quot;Speisegabe&quot; (keeping a bit of the original worth, store it cool and ad it in the end). To my knowledge its only done for bottle fermentation in the Hefeweizen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most commonly used is the &quot;Grünschlauchen&quot;. You keep a good eye on the sugar content of your beer and when it has just about enough sugar left to make a nice carbonation you fill it into the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16088" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T10:44:27.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22588" CreationDate="2018-03-02T14:48:36.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Actually using plastic bags period is bad&lt;/strong&gt;, because they are permeable (small molecules can pass through)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So even submerging the bag to vacate air really won't do much good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're better off investing in a Mylar bagger, or using mason jars purged with nitro or c02.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I simply just use a straw to suck out as much air as possible and reseal the Mylar bag with the zip lock style internal bag. Then &lt;strong&gt;use foil tape&lt;/strong&gt; over the cut edge of the mylar. The hops I buy are in this style of bag, it may not be the case with most. I tend to buy 8oz min sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-03-03T13:48:56.570" LastActivityDate="2018-03-03T13:48:56.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22598" CreationDate="2018-03-04T00:11:59.447" Score="2" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a wine's pH be adjusted after fermentation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed a blueberry wine and it came out horrible. The red yeast was dead, so to salvage the must I pitched champagne yeast. That was the first problem.  Secondly, the wine's ph level was too high, resulting in a humiliating weak tasting wine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, I'd like to increase the acidity of the wine in the hope of making it a little more pleasant to drink... Or should I scrap the entire batch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13288" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-05T11:49:03.530" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T11:49:03.530" Title="Balancing wines pH after fermentation" Tags="|wine|ph|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22592" CreationDate="2018-03-04T01:47:36.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add lactic acid to lower the pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test on a small scalable volume to taste. Then do the correct dose on the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T01:47:36.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-04T11:57:07.853" Score="2" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to figure out how to make my own soju. It seems easy enough, rice, nuruk and yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing I havent figured out is what yeast strain soju is made with and if it is commercially available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T12:25:55.303" Title="Soju yeast strains" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22595" CreationDate="2018-03-05T11:38:23.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This article from the IBD journal should help you get started on your hunt: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/jib.268&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Influence of yeast strains on the physicochemical characteristics, methanol and acetaldehyde profiles and volatile compounds for Korean rice distilled spirit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the list of Yeasts tested in the paper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin Clos  Dry yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin Clos  Dry yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin Cy079 Dry yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin DV10  Dry yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin EC1118    Dry yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin ICV D254  Dry yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin D47   Dry yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin R-HST Dry yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uvaferm BDX  Dry yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4347 Liquid yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;La Parisienne  Dry yeast &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-12T12:25:55.303" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T12:25:55.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22592" CreationDate="2018-03-05T11:48:03.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add lactic as EZ suggests: or you can add a little citric, malic acid blended together, for a more fruity acid flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your pH is corrected you may still fine the wine a bit thin on mouthfeel. If the is the case you can also add some black tea to the wine, allow 3 or 4 bags to stew in 500ml for 4 hours, then you can dose the wine with this. The tannins extracted from the tea help body up weak bodied coutry wines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T11:48:03.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22456" CreationDate="2018-03-05T12:08:22.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not have any experience with the method you suggest. But I would personally not do it this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are going from Primary =&amp;gt; Secondary then to Bottling, I am not seeing how adding sugar to your secondary before crashing removes any transfers from the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would rack off your beer into the secondary, and allow it to crash down. I would then try and identify what is causing the hazy appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, once identified I would add the correct finings at this point. You may not be experiencing a haze from yeast , but potentially a chill haze from polyphenols, thirdly and worst of all it could be permanent haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK so in order of severity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Permanent Haze - This as the name states does not go away and may be due to bacterial contamination or a faulty brew process allowing starches to end up in your final brew. You can test biological contamination with a cheap microscope and a little time, and starch contamination with the iodine test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chill Haze - This is caused by the weak bonding of proteins and polyphenols. Easy to tell if you have this, take a sample and warm the brew, does the haze disappear, if so you can deal with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to remove either the proteins, PolyPhenols or the complexes the form. You can remove proteins by fining with silica gel ( but it will kill head formation and retention). You can remove Polyphenols by fining with PVPP (PolyCarAT), a better way to preserve head forming proteins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yeast Haze - Yeast in suspension cause a hazy appearance, you can test for this with spectorphotometer or a far more accessible manner a cheap microscope and cell count with a haemocytometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fix for this is more time and let gravity and cold do its thing, or fine the brew with isnglass or vegan alternative finings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I am still making some kind of sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T16:46:47.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22456" CreationDate="2018-03-05T12:13:56.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in the end I went along and just tried my suggested method. I let the primary cool down to 2 deg C (35F), made a priming solution and cooled this also. Then both where added to a secondary vessel to let it cold crash for a week. The temperature did increase a bit during transferring, to 4 deg C. The gravity with the priming solution was 1.016. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a week I bottled directly from the secondary, from the tap on the bottom of the vessel. I moved the vessel from the fridge to the counter top and let is stand for a few hours. The gravity was still at 1.016 and the water lock had a ‘negative pressure’ suggesting there hasn’t be any fermentation (possible there had been some fermentation, but the CO2 will dissolve in the cold beer?). During bottling I’ve noticed that the first runnings where quite hazy. In the middle it was really clear but closer to the bottom it became hazy again. I marked the hazy ones to compare at a later stage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after a few weeks in the bottle, the carbonation seems fine, although a bit low. I like my Belgians foamy, so I usually aim around 3,0 vol of CO2, but compared to other beers it is not there (yet?). I took one of the hazy ones (also hazy in the glass), I want to save the clearer ones for better moments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion. Was the experiment a success. Yes. It is possible to mix in the priming solution and let it cold crash at the same time. I agree that it is possible that some fermentation occurs, but due to the temperatures it will be minimal for most yeasts. Will I do it again? Probably not. Transferring and mixing beer just before bottling has a big plus and that is that it creates an even mixture of the yeast for each bottle. Right now I ended with lots of bottles with uneven amounts of yeast and therefore uneven clarity and probably conditioning times etc. For me, getting consistency across a batch weights more than increased infection risk etc. I need to check if one of the clear bottles really makes a difference but even if it does, I still have ~¼ of the batch not so clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-05T16:44:39.553" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T16:44:39.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14661" CreationDate="2018-03-05T17:04:19.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This article suggests certain polyphenols may negatively affect yeast life span: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3503821/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3503821/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have fermented many flower wines/meads with and without Tannin and never really had any stuck fermentations, I find oxygenation to be a far bigger factor leading to stuck fermentations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, always happy to be proved wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T17:04:19.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="720" CreationDate="2018-03-05T20:36:50.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems no one has suggested a &lt;em&gt;vinometer&lt;/em&gt;. Probably the worst tool of them all, used for wines. It gives inaccurate readings when sugar present, so perhaps this should be avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T20:36:50.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22606" CreationDate="2018-03-06T03:11:07.037" Score="2" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an ale that will have an OG of .073, but only 1 smack pack on hand and brewing in 12 hours. Nervous that the 1 pack may not be enough to support the OG? I always have an extra few dry packs of SafeAle 05 on hand. Wondering if just rehydrating one and pitching in addition to the smack pack is advisable, or just take my chances with the one smack pack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13348" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T10:26:46.247" Title="Add US 05 to my smack pack?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22603" CreationDate="2018-03-06T04:12:17.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard of people fixing their underfermented beers with US-05, and generally it was fine, because that strain is rather neutral. I would expect that the character of your beer wouldn't be expressed in full, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do - make a starter with that smack pack right now. Add some yeast nutrient there. Oxygenate really well during starter making (I have a stir plate). They say a starter takes 24 hours, but I reckon in 12 hours you're already going to have enough to pitch, especially the original smack pack was healthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T04:12:17.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22603" CreationDate="2018-03-06T10:26:46.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would rehydrate the US05 and pitch in with a good healthy cell count. You will not get the full yeast profile of your intended yeast strain, but you will avoid getting off flavours produced by stressed yeast, also you mitigate the risk of a stuck fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US05 is fine to just sprinkle on the top of your brew, you can rehydrate and make up a starter if you wish, but US05 is pretty hardy and can just be dumped in dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just ensure your wort is well aerated and maybe give it a good shake about 12 hours in given the higher gravity of the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T10:26:46.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22463" CreationDate="2018-03-06T10:41:13.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming you are saying for a few days it will be this cold, not permenatly. If you hope to get carbonation with long term sub zero storage it is unlikly to work for the reasons of slowed metabolism laid out by EZ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will try cover all your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the yeast survive below-zero temperatures?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, most of it will some of it will not, yeast is pretty hardy but repeated freezing and thawing will kill off some of the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What eventual effects might below-zero storage have on the yeast if it recovers?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will select for yeast cells with a stronger cold stress response. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would there be a difference when it comes to the type of yeast (e.g. top vs bottom fermenters etc.), or is this irrelevant at these&#xA;temperatures?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess that lager yeast may be more resistant to these low temperatures but that is purely guess work based on the fact they derive from a strain of yeast from high mountain regions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will maturation be harmed, and in what way?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be harmed but the lower the temperature the longer you will need to reach desired carbonation and conditioning levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will  the beer be affected by below-zero storage in other ways?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have accidentally frozen and thawed beer before and the flavour was not as expected, it had taken on an unplesant bitterness. But just making the beer cold without freezing should not affect it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may slow the degradation of fresh hop charchter by keeping it so cold, so there may be some unexpected benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T10:41:13.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12006" CreationDate="2018-03-06T15:50:25.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this had been with a lager yeast you would probably have killed it, any thing above 77°F/25°C will kill off most of your viable lager yeast cells. But, your standard Ale yeasts will survive OK up to about 100°F/37°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So wheater pitiching or using the yeast to condition after 8 days in the FV as in your case, with an ale yeast you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T15:50:25.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2188" CreationDate="2018-03-06T16:20:00.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can brew a saission as suggested by other users, but with HotHead from Omega labs you can brew clean flavoured sytles up to far higher temps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I advise looking at HotHead from Omega Labs: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.omegayeast.com/portfolio/14158-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.omegayeast.com/portfolio/14158-2/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flocculation: Medium-High &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attenuation: 75-85% &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature Range: 62-98° F (16-37° C) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alcohol Tolerance: 11% ABV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a really interesting yeast, for higher temp brewing and stops you having to only brew Saissions or Belgium styles in the hight of summer. I believe HotHead is Norwegian kveik strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T16:20:00.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22611" CreationDate="2018-03-06T18:20:58.557" Score="6" ViewCount="937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been dabbling with simple ciders in the past few years.  I've been particularly enjoying those made with honey as an adjunct - I'm not sure whether it should be classified as a honey cider or a cyser, but to my uneducated palette, it's delicious.  Big honey aroma, with just a hint of sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd like to do is introduce some spice character to it, specifically ginger.  Is there a &quot;preferred&quot; method of adding ginger or other spices to a cider or mead?  I've done some looking around but haven't seen much consensus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using fresh ginger root has a certain aesthetic appeal, and I'd love to go that route - but I can imagine the result being vegetal or astringent if I don't handle it right, or if it goes in too early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone who's been down this road or a similar one, I'd love to hear what you found to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current simple-as-I-can-make-it method for a nano batch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+ 2.5 quarts pasteurized apple juice (I use Simply Apple)&#xA;+ 12 oz honey from the hippie aisle of Fred Meyer&#xA;+ Mangrove Jack's cider yeast&#xA;+ One month in primary, many months in bottle (I've made it up to a year so far)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I ended up trying the approach from Evil Zymurgist's answer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I either pasteurized the ginger too long or at too high a temperature, because it had a &quot;cooked ginger&quot; taste for the first few months.  However, a few months later, it tastes great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastEditorUserId="15127" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T21:29:52.437" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T21:29:52.437" Title="Adding ginger to cider/cyser/mead" Tags="|cider|mead|ginger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22610" CreationDate="2018-03-07T01:20:08.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ginger has its own microbes that will change fermentation. You will want to kill if you just want ginger flavor and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest making a ginger slurry then pastureize it by bringing it to about 200°F (90°C) for about 3 minutes. Cool it in a sanitary way (cover / seal). Then add this slurry late fermentation when most of your alcohol is present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T15:02:11.927" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T15:02:11.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10136" CreationDate="2018-03-07T03:32:29.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I want a slight honey flavor, I cold crash a 5 gallon batch after fermentation to separate out the yeast or pasteurize then add a cup of honey mixed with a bit of High proof alcohol to dilute and kill off any stray yeast or bacteria then stir in before kegging, I don't boil to avoid losing honey character.  Not sure how to do this if bottling except for maybe using one of those new counter pressure bottle fillers since fermentation can no longer take place, but have my doubts about how well those fillers work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16108" LastActivityDate="2018-03-07T03:32:29.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7947" CreationDate="2018-03-08T00:47:22.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy an Inkbird to control the Fermwrap and put a blanket on everything.  Better yet put the whole thing in a sleeping bag.  Voila, problem solved!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13916" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T00:47:22.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15655" CreationDate="2018-03-08T00:49:37.377" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you stir everyplace is the correct place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13916" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T00:49:37.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-08T02:15:13.230" Score="5" ViewCount="2410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only standard wine bottles available, are they strong enough to hold bottle primed beer (max. 30 psi) without exploding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16112" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T15:50:23.177" Title="Can I store beer in wine bottles" Tags="|beer|bottling|priming|pressure|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22615" CreationDate="2018-03-08T09:10:54.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottles will probably be fine, although they are not made for being under pressure so don’t take my word for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how do you want to close them off? Corks without some sort of cage will pop out over time due to the pressure inside and the necks of wine bottles are not made for crown caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T09:10:54.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22615" CreationDate="2018-03-08T10:32:22.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done so before and it was OK, but... you do run the risk of them blowing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do close them off I would cork them and leave them pointing up, so hopefully the corks would pop before the bottle, and as pointing up would not flood your storage area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best to use champagne bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T10:32:22.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22618" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-03-08T10:45:06.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag should be used for enzyme preperation used in brewing, be they amalayse or pectin treatments for wine, or protylitic enzymes for haze or gluten reduction. These are more common in commercial brewing but becoming more available to homebrewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common examples are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Debranching en­zyme - Hydrolyse α-1,6 branch points of starch. - Secures maximum fermentability of the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beta Glucanase - Hydrolyze glu­cans. - &#xA;Reduce viscosity and aid filtration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protease - Modify protein-polyphenolic com­pounds. - Reduce the chill haze formed in beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T10:45:06.473" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T10:45:06.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22619" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-03-08T10:45:06.473" Score="0" Body="Enzymes used in the brewing process" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T10:45:06.473" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T10:45:06.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22620" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-03-08T10:48:38.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetaldehyde (systematic name ethanal) is an organic chemical compound with the formula CH3CHO. It occurrs widely in nature and is produced on a large scale in industry. Acetaldehyde occurs naturally in coffee, bread, and ripe fruit. It is also produced by the partial oxidation of ethanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewers yeast produces acetaldehyde as an intermediate compound in the conversion of glucose to ethanol, so it’s found in every beer you make, at least during primary fermentation. However, in a healthy fermentation, the yeast fully converts the vast majority of this compound to alcohol so that any residual amount falls below the flavor threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T10:48:38.363" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T10:48:38.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22621" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-03-08T10:48:38.363" Score="0" Body="A common green apple off flavour in beer and wine." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T10:48:38.363" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T10:48:38.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22615" CreationDate="2018-03-08T14:34:55.353" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with JesseB1234 and Mr_road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did it myself a few times and results may vary. I had one cork poping up out of 5 bottles.  It is not ideal, but if you have no other option, here are a few tips :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use short corks, they may be more permeable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not overfill, leave a bit of space (not too much either)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not bottle condition too hot, slower bottle conditionning is less prone to pop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a shrink wrap plastic cap to help secure the cork in (champagne cork is best)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a bit less priming sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personnally, I consider a plastic Soda/Coke bottle a better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T14:34:55.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22624" CreationDate="2018-03-08T15:29:08.450" Score="6" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any difference in quality, rather than the strain and flavor profile, between the kit yeasts coming with the kit and some external dry yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beers that i batched using external yeast (US-05, T-58, etc, I have tried quite a few types based on the style I brewed) feels to be coming out much better than the ones I brewed using kit yeast. Assuming the flavor profile of the kit yeast fits the beer style, do you think it really worths investing to the yeast? Or is that just a cognitive bias? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: My native language is not English, we call the extract + yeast combo sold commercially for easily making beer &quot;kit&quot;, I am hoping it is used in English like this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15818" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T14:50:12.393" Title="Using Extract kit yeast vs some external commercial dry yeast" Tags="|yeast|extract|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22623" CreationDate="2018-03-08T15:36:32.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the quality is not greatly different but the quantity is usually too low in my experience. Over here in the UK a 25l or 5Gal kit tends to come with 6g of yeast, where as I would often pitch 11-22g depending on the gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is probably the fact that pitching another yeast is pitching at far higher cell counts, leading to far cleaner fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing is you never know how long the 'kit' yeast has been sat on a shelf out of the fridge, so may have degraded, more than a fresh pack of US-05, etc....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Your terminology around Extract kit is correct :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="10696" LastEditDate="2018-03-09T14:50:12.393" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T14:50:12.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22623" CreationDate="2018-03-08T15:46:12.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, those yeast that come with kits are about the same quality as other dry yeasts, I did not notice any difference in attenuation or lag time etc. I think most of the kit suppliers use the same yeast for all their kits, so usually a very neutral one-fits-all yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T15:46:12.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22628" CreationDate="2018-03-08T16:50:02.977" Score="2" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm familiar with the science behind light contamination, skunking, and why most beers are bottled in brown bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm curious is why some breweries are choosing to bottle their sours in green bottles. I've seen this for 250mL up to 750mL bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15277" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T19:03:40.693" Title="Why are lambic and other sours/wilds bottled in green bottles?" Tags="|bottling|sour|lambics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22627" CreationDate="2018-03-08T19:03:40.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are very little hops in a lambic so it's much less susceptible to being light struck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also tend to use aged hops and full duration additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically there is very little alpha-acid if any that are not isomoerized.  So there is much less of the precursors to 3-MBT (compound responsible for skunky aroma)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While they can still skunk from being light struck the brewers must feel green bottles suffice when handled correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T19:03:40.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22632" CreationDate="2018-03-08T21:30:30.890" Score="3" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it possible to get a useful starting gravity reading when not everything is dissolved or suspended, but you know it ultimately will be?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some context: In my pre-hydrometer days, I made a few cysers / honey ciders that really only amounted to apple juice, honey, and yeast.  I never was able to get the honey to fully dissolve, it just went straight to the bottom and sat there, silently mocking me.  After initially being concerned, I RDWHAHB'd, figuring the yeast would find the honey eventually.  And they did!  A couple weeks later, the honey layer was gone, leaving the beginnings of a delicious beverage behind.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In hindsight, I wonder if this accidental timed release mechanism meant the yeast weren't as stressed as they could have been, actually improving the final product.  But I digress.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to my question: if I understand the physics of a hydrometer, it measures the buoyancy due to displacement of the water+stuff (dissolved/suspended).  So it seems to me that anything not dissolved or suspended (thus resting on the bottom) will NOT be reflected in the gravity reading, any more than if I were to throw in a handful of marbles.  Am I correct in my thinking here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=== EDIT: anyone who comes this way, the following wasn't quite right, see answers below ===&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, then it seems like it should be possible to calculate an &quot;effective&quot; OG, since I know how much adjunct I'm adding.  If:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;starting gravity = (density of wort)/(density of water)&#xA;                 = ((mass of wort)/volume)/((mass of water)/volume)&#xA;                 = (mass of wort)/(mass of water)  # since volume is equal&#xA;                 = (mass of water + mass of stuff)/(mass of water)&#xA;                 = 1 + (mass of stuff)/(mass of water)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then for the purpose of illustration and intentionally making the math easy, would adding 50g of honey to 1L of 1.050 AJ lead to an &quot;effective&quot; OG of 1.100?  (assuming 1L of water = 1000g)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastEditorUserId="15127" LastEditDate="2018-03-09T19:25:43.957" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T19:25:43.957" Title="Starting gravity reading when not all fermentables are dissolved" Tags="|cider|mead|specific-gravity|adjuncts|honey|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22615" CreationDate="2018-03-08T23:35:02.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, standard wine bottles are not meant to hold much pressure at all. Less than one atmosphere and then will easily break. Believe me, I've had wine that was barely fizzy and bottles started to pop. Plus there is no way to hold the pressure back unless you use screw caps. Better to find 22oz beer bottles or sparkling wine bottles. Hang out at your local recycling facility and pick up all the free bottles you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T23:35:02.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22629" CreationDate="2018-03-09T07:29:24.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first idea is correct. Your gravity reading will be incorrect if not everything is dissolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the second part on adding the honey is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gravity reading means how many times heavier than water the solution is. So if 1 liter of water weighs 1 kg, 1 liter of solution weighs 1.050 kg in your example. But this does not mean that only 50 g of sugar is present in 1 l solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some chemists made measurements to find the relationship between the amount of sugar dissolved and the gravity of the solution. Their names were Balling, Brix and Plato. Due to them, the amount of sugar dissolved can also be expressed as g sugar/100 g solution. As a first approximation of the relationship between Brix(or Plato, or Balling), divide the decimals of the gravity by 4. So 50/4 is 12.5, which means a sugar solution of 1.050 contains 12.5g sugar per 100 g of solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in case you have 1l with a gravity of 1.050, you have actually 1050 g of solution, where each 100 g contains 12.5 g of sugar, calculated from this your liter of solution actually contains 131 g of sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is in the fact that adding sugar to water, increases the mass, but also increases the volume. This is not linear and can not be derived in any way. The only formulas for this are based upon the measuring work of Balling, Plato and Brix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the above rough estimates (because the division by 4 actually starts to deviate a lot above a gravity of 1.070), a 1 liter solution of 1.100 would contain 25g sugar/100 g solution, and 25 * 11 = 275 g, so to reach an OG of 1100 you would need to add 144g of sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T07:29:24.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22629" CreationDate="2018-03-09T10:22:20.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is still useful. You at least know where you are starting, as chthon states the second part of adding 50g to 1l of 1050 solution doesn't give 1100 solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brsquared.org/wine/CalcInfo/HydSugAl.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;great table&lt;/a&gt; that illustrates that dissolved sugar in g/l is linear with SG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8vRdC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I converted it to a graph here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't confuse this with adding 57 g of sugar to 1 l of water to get 1020 solution, that is not what it says. It states that in 1 litre of 1020 solution there is 57g of dissolved sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As chtlon correctly states in their answer adding sugar to 1 litre of water gives a non-linaer relationships due to the change in volume. I am really struggling to find a table to support this even though I know it is true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;==== EDIT ==== &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found some &lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.airmail.net/sgross/fermcalc/fermcalc_sugar.html#cs1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grpahs&lt;/a&gt; from Fermclac and the maths that makes them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, 50g Honey != 50g sugar due to the water content of honey =&gt; 50g of honey is about 41g of sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T10:22:20.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2018-03-09T17:15:05.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I use pellets for dry hopping I don't have these issues as they sink like tiny stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you have added hops after siphoning, then giving the vessel a good slosh around can get then into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes freeze leaf hops then smash them up before using them for dry hop as they tend to wet faster as smaller pieces and you will get better aroma extraction from them. But, pellets I find best for imparting flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T17:15:05.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-10T07:33:41.633" Score="1" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I attempted my first home brew from a kit last night, but underestimated how long the process would take so rushed it a little. After waking up this morning, I’ve realised I added the beer yeast into the wort while still hot! It’s undoubtedly killed the yeast as I can see no bubbles coming from my brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point can I just buy more yeast and add it now or is the whole brew now ruined? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16118" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-03-12T13:42:01.840" LastActivityDate="2018-03-16T15:08:50.027" Title="My first Brew gone wrong?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22637" CreationDate="2018-03-10T12:38:26.557" Score="5" ViewCount="1966" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it happened again. The beer blew out the airlock leaving a water and beer mix behind. The airlock still bubbles as per usual. Now I'm wondering what I should do next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave it as is&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the airlock with another sanitized airlock and sterile water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;s&gt;Just replace the water in the airlock&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the airlock with a blow out tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of these the options make as much sense as the next one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KXMuK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KXMuK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Beer airlock blow out&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might have over-pitched with a 1.4 pint (0.66L) starter for a 2 gallon Belgian golden strong ale batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="15826" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T13:37:04.617" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T13:37:04.617" Title="Beer blew up into the airlock. What's next?" Tags="|beer|airlock|belgian|blow-off|blow-off-tube|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22634" CreationDate="2018-03-10T12:52:18.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lag time can vary depending on the yeast. Upwards of 24-48 hours are perhaps not that common. So if it were me I’d try to find a similar yeast if it possible and pitch it within 24 h. Dry yeast could be preferable to avoid a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastActivityDate="2018-03-10T12:52:18.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22635" CreationDate="2018-03-10T14:21:18.817" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just clean it up and replace the airlock sanitizer fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a second airlock just prep it and swap. If not just cover with sanitized foil while cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-03-10T14:21:18.817" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22634" CreationDate="2018-03-10T14:35:35.813" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes yeast will get damaged and mostly die at 110°F+  anything over 120°F will kill in minutes, at 140°F it instantly kills the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Just repitch some more yeast. You'll be fine.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-03-10T14:35:35.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18910" CreationDate="2018-03-11T07:01:08.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No decent estimates of final gravity can be projected from early readings.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking from personal experience the amount of unfermentable sugars and proteins doesn’t affect th  speed of the fermentation process to a great extent. The number of live yeast cells pitched and amount of oxygen locked in the tank will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rehydration and common lag time for the chosen yeast strain also play a part. But for instance, using a clearing agent in the boil has little impact of the speed of fermentation or the appearent attenuation. But it does, I imagine, affect the yeast’s ability flocculate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="15826" LastEditDate="2018-03-11T07:09:03.937" LastActivityDate="2018-03-11T07:09:03.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22641" CreationDate="2018-03-11T14:38:35.473" Score="2" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently made the move to a top tier system and have retired the trusty old turkey fryer with the objective of conducting some more tightly controlled brews over the next few years. I've done all grain for years so I usually get what I'm after in a brew but this time the OG was much lower than what it should have been and I'm not entirely sure why but I think it may have been that the grain wasn't milled properly (used someone different for it this time). It should have been 1.095 but was 1.060. Given the lack of any clogging whatever on the mesh screen in the tun, I believe that the grain was under milled and could be the cause of the undershoot and I'd like to get the community's opinion.&#xA;Grain Bill attached in screenshot.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/huVch.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/huVch.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;grain bill&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14451" LastActivityDate="2018-03-11T15:24:03.520" Title="Low OG, thinking it's the milling - thoughts?" Tags="|all-grain|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22640" CreationDate="2018-03-11T15:24:03.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to be sure with the limited details given. But here's some possible causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diastatic Power. Your only contributors are the 2-row, MO, Rye. Should have enough to get well over the min DP needed. But may have fallen short if the grain had ever reached denaturing temps. 149°F will denature beta-amylase. This can easily happen if shipped by rail in a cargo container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash PH. 5.6 is optimal. Above or below will reduce enzyme effectiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash Temp temps above 149°F will limit what enzymes can contribute. Also you need to adjust target DP if doing so. Grain DP ratings include both beta and alpha amylase at about a 50/50 allowance. So if your recipe targets a min DP of 35 but you mash for all alpha your DP is really only about 17.5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gain Mill. This is the most common cause of poor mash efficiency. There is no ideal size that works for everyone. Let's face it, flour grind is the most efficient. But our mashs would be a stuck mess. So we try to get as small as possible without clogging our system. On my system I was able to crush very fine and countered the stuck issues using 1lb of rice hulls. I found $1 of rice hulls equaled about $10 of grain if I were to crush bigger and add more grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to avoid problems? Take readings and adjust. Keep a close eye on temp and PH. Most important do an iodine test for starches every 15-30 min. If you still have starches, just give it more time it will usually get there with time and stirring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-03-11T15:24:03.520" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-12T02:54:58.470" Score="3" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to make ginger beer using whey and keep the sugar to a minimum. Are you able to advise the level of Rapadura sugar (coconut) to use so that it will be all eaten in the brewing. The aim is for a sugar free, alcohol free probiotic drink - I realise this may not be possible but would like to keep these to a minimum. Thank you,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Martin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16126" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T13:09:26.547" Title="Lowering sugar content and using whey for ginger beer" Tags="|sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22642" CreationDate="2018-03-12T09:08:12.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will struggle to get sugar free and alcohol free unless you start with no sugar. One becomes the other. You could always do a kombucha like fermentation where the sugar becomes alcohol but is then further transformed by the SCOBY. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking at UK law then the definitions of free, low etc regarding alcohol in beer/other drinks is like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alcohol-free beer = no more than 0.05% ABV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;De-alcoholised beer = no more than 0.5% ABV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low-alcohol beer = no more than 1.2% ABV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... if you were aiming for &amp;lt;0.5% then you would want to to get a gravity of 1004/1005 and a final gravity of 1000/1001, not all fermentable sugar you add will become alcohol. Some goes into making more yeast, some is just not usable by the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we assume the above is what you are looking for then you would want a maximum of 17g/l of sugar to give you 5 points of fermentable sugars, but 12g/l may be a safer bet given what you are aiming for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T09:08:12.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22645" CreationDate="2018-03-12T18:09:19.527" Score="4" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now I'm carbonating hard cider in 5 gallon corny kegs at 35psi for about 48 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm wondering is: Will the same pressure/time in larger vessels (say, 1/4 barrel kegs, or 1/2 barrel kegs) produce the same results? Or will the larger vessels require more time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other details: No carbonation stone, not shaking the keg, carbonating at ~36°F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16127" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T11:19:13.763" Title="Carbonation Time at Different Keg Volumes" Tags="|carbonation|corny-keg|sanke-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22644" CreationDate="2018-03-12T21:56:51.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. There's little difference in time if any when you're talking about 5-15 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically CO2 absorption would need to be greater than the volume your regulator to serve for there to be issue. Tank depth also plays a roll, but has very little effect at homebrew volumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T11:15:53.557" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T11:15:53.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22644" CreationDate="2018-03-13T11:19:13.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There will be no noticable difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were carbing up 5 BBLs or greater then you would not just apply top pressure you would apply pressure through a carbonation stone to do it in a reasonable time frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T11:19:13.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22653" CreationDate="2018-03-13T12:02:18.340" Score="3" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to brew my first test batch of a Flanders Red/Brown. I am thinking Rodenbach, but with local ingredients. So, for me Maris replaces lager malt, Admiral and Progress replace nobel hops. Basically harking back to Porters of London from the late C18, early C19.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 Kg Maris Otter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 Kg flaked corn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2 Crystal 150L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2 Chocolate Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Admiral 20g @ 60 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Progress 30g @ 60 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast/Bacteria&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wyeast - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyeastlab.com/yeast-strain/roeselare-ale-blend&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Roeselare Ale Blend&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long is the minimum time I need to leave this before it gets the right flavour profile. Wyeast say up to 18 months, but is there any reliable way anyone knows of has tried to speed this up?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has anyone any experience pitching Roesalare Blend with other yeasts? eg SO4 or US-05?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am thinking of using a cork bung to allow slow oxygen transfer in/out of my stainless FV for the againg? for 50l should a 25mm/1in bung allow suffcent oxygen trasfer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has anyone tried repitching the Roeslare or similar blend, wyeast website says not to do so, but I hate buying yeast/bacteria when I am growing them in my basement?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am going to age this with oak cubes 25mm/1in on a side, how many should I use? How should I toast them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=== EDIT ===&#xA;Calculated values from recipe with Final Volume 50l&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SRM 13&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG 1050&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FG 1008-1004 [depending how aggressive the Brett is]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABV ~6%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IBU ~18-24&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-19T10:43:52.667" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T12:20:26.197" Title="Brewing a Flanders Red Bruin/Historic C18 Porter?" Tags="|fermentation|aging|oxygenation|oak|repitch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22649" CreationDate="2018-03-13T13:30:26.780" Score="2" ViewCount="541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a Belgian golden strong ale for the first time. According to the fermentation schedule, it should cold crash and lager at 32°F (0°C) for three weeks. Even though I've cold crashed before, my technique has been to momentarily replace the airlock with sanitized foil. Keeping the airlock while cooling will suck water into the tank. A similar approach is mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/16937/lager-diacetyl-rest-and-lagering-without-air-escape&quot;&gt;Lager Diacetyl Rest and Lagering Without Air Escape&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a better way to do this using a glass carboy?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a risk of oxidation since oxygen will enter the tank?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-03-29T17:26:30.443" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T17:26:30.443" Title="Cold crashing and risk of oxidation" Tags="|fermentation|ale|oxidation|belgian|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22648" CreationDate="2018-03-13T15:22:22.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a valid way to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be a slight amount of air and therefore oxygen sucked in, but not enough that I would worry about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T15:22:22.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22651" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-03-13T17:12:53.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chloramines are an inorganic compound that is a derivative of ammonia and are used as a disinfectant for municipal drinking water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chloramines present in the water can combine with malt phenols in the wort to create a compound called chlorophenol, which can give the beer a band-aid or medicinal taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chloroamines are very stable and are noteasily removed by boiling the water. Camden tables(Sodium Metabisulphate) can be used to reduce chloramine to ammonium and chloride ions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T17:12:53.453" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T17:12:53.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22652" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-03-13T17:12:53.453" Score="0" Body="Chloramines present in the water can combine with malt phenols in the wort to create a compound called chlorophenol." OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T17:12:53.453" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T17:12:53.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22647" CreationDate="2018-03-13T22:48:50.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, first of all, the grain bill is not one of red flanders. There's no place for chocolate malt, nor for flaked corn. 8 kg base malt is gonna give you too high OG for the style (assuming you're doing 5gal/20l batch). Too much hops, too (again, assuming 20l batch, but too much even for 40l). The share of special malt of caramel-ish type should be much higher - 15-20%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to your questions (and when answering those I assume the grain bill is already corrected).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3 months in primary and 3 months in bottles gets you a base beer that is worth talking about. 6+ months in bottles is what I would (and normally do) aim for (actually I blend 9-months old beer with 18-months beer for bottling, and then let it sit in bottles for another month before drinking). In any case, your palate is the best judge here, and you should calibrate it with enough commercial samples (they will also give you precious bottle dregs that you can dump into your beer). There's no way to speed it up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jamil Z. says that Roselaare blend already has US-05. I don't see why you can't add extra S-04, US-05 or any other yeast, for that matter. I don't believe it's a critical factor here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should be OK. Tbh, most &quot;newbie sour&quot; beers have vinegar note, which hints over-oxidation. So I'd rather worry about limiting oxygen exposure, rather than whether the bung would let through enough oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I repitched them, added extra strains (other normal yeast, pure Brett cultures, bottle dregs) and I guess over a few batches my house blend differs from Roselaare. Still tastes good. There are two key points, probably: a) add some fresh &quot;normal&quot; yeast when repitching to a new batch, b) use oak cubes, which would act as &quot;storage&quot; of the cultures in between batches.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not too much, I'd say 50-60 grams of wood should be enough. I didn't toast mine, but they were originally from a burbon barrel, so guess the issue had been fixed prior. Tbh, should they have come as a regular dry wood, I wouldn't have bothered with toasting. Just sterilize them in microwave (put then in water and let them boil for 1 minute, then dump into fermenter together with water). Presence of wood is beneficial for Brett cultures, plus, as I said, these cubes become valuable at repitching time (after bottling I collect them from the fermenter into a mason jar and store in a fridge).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T22:48:50.423" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16364" CreationDate="2018-03-14T03:25:13.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really wouldnt worry about it. I have buckets of walmart RO water sitting around for months for my aquarium and ive never heard of these issues and aquarists are some anal peeps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16133" LastActivityDate="2018-03-14T03:25:13.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22657" CreationDate="2018-03-14T16:52:18.020" Score="4" ViewCount="5402" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does anybody know how to bottle from nitro?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a nitro beer that I enjoy from my kegerator on a 75:25 N:CO2 gas blend. So far all attempts to bottle this beer on the nitro mix has failed (using Blichmann's Beer Gun). It just pours flat and receives negative feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left Hand Brewing have &lt;a href=&quot;http://lefthandbrewing.com/about/nitro/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;figured this out&lt;/a&gt;. They're keeping it a secret as far as I can tell but I'm just hoping there's somebody out there who has also figured it out? If so, please share!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-19T16:00:49.900" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T01:36:12.227" Title="How to bottle from nitro as a homebrewer?" Tags="|bottling|kegging|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22655" CreationDate="2018-03-14T16:55:48.263" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottle using CO2 only.  The nitro is already in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-03-14T16:55:48.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22655" CreationDate="2018-03-14T19:53:47.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's carbonated using normal CO2. Nitrogen isn't absorbed into beer. Its just a gas to maintain high pressures without over carbonating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's bottled using a counter pressure bottler with nitro. The trick to the head is the 180° angle pour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because canning with counter pressure is more complex Guinness uses their &quot;widget&quot; which is filled with nitro and releases slowly after the can is sealed. It also functions like a mentos in coke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: More about the pour. I believe this is canned in a normal way without counter pressure or widget.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.firestonebeer.com/beers/nitro-merlin-milk-stout.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.firestonebeer.com/beers/nitro-merlin-milk-stout.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-19T15:59:50.053" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T15:59:50.053" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22659" CreationDate="2018-03-15T00:27:51.987" Score="3" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;G'day gang,&#xA;Pretty new to brewing (second batch on the ferment now).  Just wondering if it would be ok to pass the fermented beer through filter paper before bottling?  I've got filter paper like the ones used in coffee percolator.&#xA;Cheers! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16137" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T20:25:35.237" Title="Filter paper pre bottling" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22658" CreationDate="2018-03-15T00:40:08.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oi! No it would not be ok. You risk infecting and oxidising your beer. Just use one of {finings, cold crash, gelatine} or a combination of these to get all haze settled, then rack the clear beer from top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T00:40:08.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22655" CreationDate="2018-03-15T02:06:17.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not feasible to &quot;bottle with nitro&quot; - meaning to eventually pour from a bottle and get the creamy nitrogen feel to the beer from a home system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because the nitrogen gas does not easily dissolve into the beer under normal bottling pressures.  &quot;Beer gas&quot; is typically a 70/30 (25/75, 50/50, etc.) mix of nitrogen and carbon dioxide.  The carbon dioxide component of the mix does dissolve into the beer, so there is some remaining carbonation after the head settles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nitrogen &quot;stout&quot; taps have a slotted or holed plate across the flow of the beer.  This is called a &quot;restrictor plate&quot;.  The relatively large pressure of the nitrogen causes the tiny tiny foam bubbles by forcing the beverage through this plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cans and bottles an automatic &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Widget_(beer)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;widget&lt;/a&gt;&quot; activates on opening, foaming the beer with some stored nitrogen.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.deschutesbrewery.com/feeling-gassy-co2-vs-nitrogen-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Some breweries&lt;/a&gt; have special extra-pressure tanks that can hold dissolved nitrogen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T02:06:17.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22658" CreationDate="2018-03-15T02:35:49.573" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's fine. You can filter through cheese cloth, for example. Coffee filter should work, too, but may be slower. Just try to minimize the contact with oxygen, to avoid off flavors --- so avoid splashing around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your beer is already fermented, its alcohol and the hops will protect it from infections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T02:35:49.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22663" CreationDate="2018-03-15T03:38:09.577" Score="3" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to homebrewing and just tried coopers Hefe Wheat kit. I've followed the instructions and pitched the yeast into my carboy when the right temperature was reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been 4 days and yeast is still inactive (gravity is still OG). I've read that hefeweizen gets its banana/clove flavor from the yeast, so I was wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I pitch some safale-05 into my fermenter now (the only yeast I have around), will I still have the clove/banana flavor (as the Hefe yeast is in the fermenter), or it has to ferment from Hefe yeast in order to produce that flavor? I've tasted the sample I took for the gravity (that contains yeast) and it had clove flavor already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16121" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T03:52:23.313" Title="Coopers Hefe Wheat yeast failed.. Can I pitch safale-05?" Tags="|yeast|hefeweizen|coopers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22662" CreationDate="2018-03-15T03:52:23.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clove/banana flavours are coming not from yeast per se - they are coming from esters that yeast produce while fermenting beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, either you actually do have yeast activity in the fermenter, or you're tasting something else, not clove flavour. You may want to check your hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pitch safale-05 it won't be hefeweizen, but will still be a drinkable beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, don't trust kits. They likely have the lowest turnaround in homebrew stores, and chances are that yeast/hops would be overdue. Just buy dry extract and yeast of a major brand that your LHBS carries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T03:52:23.313" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22655" CreationDate="2018-03-15T16:03:19.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pour Technique&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a chance to experiment on a Nut Brown that I bottled last November on Nitro. It was kegged at 40psi for 3 weeks, then dropped to 3-4psi to be bottled through a standard Blichmann's beer gun and immediately capped. I opened it last night and poured according to the hard pour technique that Left Hand Brewing advise you to use with their beer (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yNCaV3e9BEg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;20 seconds into this clip&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result was that the Nut Brown had the cascading bubble formation as expected from a nitro beer and developed a nice think head. The nitro bubbles were not quite as vigorous as when being poured through a tap with a creamer in it, but still took around 15-20 seconds for the cascading bubbles to stop and the head to remain steady.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given how similar the result was I'm pretty sure that the pour technique is the &quot;secret&quot; about the LHB Nitro bottled range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T16:03:19.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22658" CreationDate="2018-03-15T20:25:35.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not be afraid of oxidation or infection at bottling.  However, if you bottle condition, you might end up with little active yeast and sabotage your bottle conditionning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T20:25:35.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22634" CreationDate="2018-03-16T15:08:50.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you don't see any bubbles in the airlock, that doesn't mean that the beer doesn't ferment. But to be sure I would shake the wort vigorously to aerate it and then add a fresh pack of yeast. Maybe add some yeast nutrient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've worked sanitarily, the wort should be fine. But the longer you wait, the greater the risk of infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-03-16T15:08:50.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-17T22:02:27.083" Score="4" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;About to brew for the first time. Making an IPA and bought Nottingham yeast which I just discovered says to keep at between 5-10℃ on the package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unopened but been at between 20-32℃ (those are the outside temps in my city) for about 3 weeks now. I just put it in the freezer (0℃) for 6 hours and then just the fridge (5℃) when I discovered the temperature advisory on the packaging today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has it gone bad and do I need to repurchase it? Asking since it's a bit of a pain to source it again in my part of the world, I had bought it from the US&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16142" LastEditorUserId="16142" LastEditDate="2018-03-17T22:16:25.783" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T07:06:10.927" Title="Yeast stored at 30℃" Tags="|yeast|first-time|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22667" CreationDate="2018-03-17T22:24:20.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If yeast freezes conventionally (not cryo) it's dead. Ice crystals form within the cell and rupture cell walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: If it's dry yeast. There's a good chance it's not beyond hope. Use it to make a starter to proof it and hopefully grow more healthy yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-03-18T17:43:25.097" LastActivityDate="2018-03-18T17:43:25.097" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2018-03-18T02:10:19.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I researched this very question in 1969 when I was in high school.  My buddy and I fermented honey to make mead.  Using chemistry set glassware we then distilled the mead to make:   AQUA VITAE!  The &quot;Water of Life&quot;.   We took a test tube of the Aqua Vitae to school and handed it to a friend.  &quot;It's the Water of Life!&quot; we said.  He immediately downed the whole test tube and got very goofy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16144" LastActivityDate="2018-03-18T02:10:19.280" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-03-18T02:10:19.280" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22667" CreationDate="2018-03-18T16:10:34.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't be a problem at that temp for that short time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-03-18T16:10:34.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22674" CreationDate="2018-03-19T07:50:25.357" Score="11" ViewCount="2391" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ended up with too high gravity wort. Since I was not prepared for this I didn't have enough sterile water to dilute the wort. I ended up pitching the yeast anyway and adding sterile water at 11 hours later. At this point the yeast was fully activated and regular air had probably left the tank. While being cautious about splashing, more oxygen most certainly ended up in the fermenter. In a about 15-20 minutes the airlock started letting air out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What should I be on the lookout for now? I assume there is a risk of contamination, oxidation and diacetyl production.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has anyone else a attempted this, and how did it end up?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I would have changed the fermentation schedule and swapped the style, but this was not an option with this one. The combination of IBU and color would have beer through the roof for any sensible style. Additionally there was a limit for how long it can sit and ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The wort was diluted to the 122,5% of the original volume from OG of 1.100 to 1.082. Using Vermont Ale Yeast that typically attenuates to 1.018 (expecting ABV of 8.39%)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="15826" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T20:38:45.683" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T14:13:14.907" Title="Diluting beer after 11 hours of fermentation. What to expect?" Tags="|beer|water|specific-gravity|original-gravity|ale|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22671" CreationDate="2018-03-19T09:22:21.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At what gravity did it started and what was it when the water was added? If the fermentation only just started and still has a long way to go, oxidation would most likely not be a problem. Also the risk of contamination would be minimal I guess. Tab water itself is usually very clean in terms of bacteria (in most western parts of the world at least ;). For example, there are kits where you just have to dilute the extract with water straight out of the tap and add the yeast...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About diacetyl, no idea. I can imagine a higher gravity wort does have a different effect on yeast and thus give off flavours when diluted later. But again, it is still early in the fermentation so this would be minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T09:22:21.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22647" CreationDate="2018-03-19T12:20:26.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering my own question. This answer will answer section 1, regarding accelerating brewing of Flemish Red/mixed fermentation style ales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Roman Thank-you, your answers have helped me sort a few things, and you definatly desreve the upvote for the help, your answer to point 2 and 5 are especially useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having read alot more around the subject over the last week, I will likely stick with Roeselare Blend as my starter blend to get my initial Brett and Pedi cultures, but will not use it as the initial pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reading has consisted of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Main_Page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Milk the Funk Wiki&lt;/a&gt;. The section I found particually interesting was this the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Mixed_Fermentation#Modern_Method_-_Fast_Fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fast Funky Fermentation Section&lt;/a&gt; of their mixed Fermentation page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to cool the wort to 37C/98F then pitch in a starter of Lactobacillus, leave it for 48/72H or until the pH drops to 3.4. OR I will Kettle sour, still unusre which to choose for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further research settled this, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/SouthernBrewersConference/videos/881235365357984/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pitching &lt;em&gt;Lactobacillus plantarum&lt;/em&gt; at 98F&lt;/a&gt; should allow me to kettle sour in 20-22 Hours. As any hop level above about 7 IBU will hamper my lacto culture; kettle souring is really my only option for this beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cool the now slightly soured wort to 22C/77F then pitch a mix of Sacc and Brett, which will consist of ~ 500ml Lees from the last brew, plus a fresh S04/US05 mix. Leave at 22C for 48H, then gradually cool to 18C and leave for 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will then be cooled to about 14C to drop most of the sacc yeast out, then transfered to a conditioning vessel for ~3 weeks, to let the Brett and Pedi finish doing their thing, then bottle with 1 pt of gravity left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will then have to see how bottle conditioning goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To ensure I don't get bottle bombs I will pull off 500ml before the conditioning vessel and force fermentation at 25C to find my expected final gravity. As 1008-1004 is a pretty wide range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;==== will expand this later when I get a moment ====&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T12:20:26.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22671" CreationDate="2018-03-19T13:13:05.090" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can safely dilute at any stage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contamination is probably the biggest risk. But just takes basic sanitation practices to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxydation: Really only an issue if 50% or more of the alcohol is present. Just don't splash, use a tube to add water below the wort surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diacetyl: It isn't an &quot;infection&quot; it's produced by all yeast during growth phase but then later reconsumed by the yeast. Holding temp at 68° late fermentation cleans this up (Diacetyl rest).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What to dilute with: I would recommend the same water profile to be used if you can get it in early to fermentation. If adding very late or to finished beer distilled water tends to work well. &lt;em&gt;Never use chlorinated or chemically sanitized water.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What to expect? Sounds like a good Double IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="8106" LastEditDate="2018-03-22T14:13:14.907" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T14:13:14.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22671" CreationDate="2018-03-19T15:43:11.767" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding contamination, if you boil the water you are using to dilute and let it cool in a sanitised pot, then add it you should avoid bacterial or wild yeast contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that OG (1080) don't worry about oxygen, if anything your yeast will need more of it due to the high starting gravity. When I do 1080+ beers, I often open the FV after 24H, to let out CO2 and let some air in, but keep the lid over the vessel to stop anything falling in, then give the FV a good shake to get more oxygen into solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At high gravities your yeast will need more oxygen, and a little extra from adding more sanitized water, or popping the top for a look or sniff will often benefit rather than hinder your fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T15:43:11.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21846" CreationDate="2018-03-19T16:12:00.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opti-red, is a yeast derived mix of polysacchrides, which are designed to bind to polyphenols/tannis and provide fuller body and better colour stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not add more than the recommended dose, not becuase it will do you harm, but due to the fact the manufacturer has calculated and adding any more is a waste and may advresely affect the finished wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is about to go out of date, I would use what is recommended then dispose of the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding best before dates their data sheet states: &quot;Opti-Red should be stored in a cool, dry place. Un-opened, Opti-Red has a shelf-life of 3 years.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T16:12:00.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22667" CreationDate="2018-03-19T22:00:24.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends entirely on if it was liquid or dry yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Active &lt;em&gt;dry&lt;/em&gt; yeast is very hardy. &lt;strong&gt;Most dry yeast strains can be kept at room temperature for 3+ months with negligable impact on the final product.&lt;/strong&gt; Anecdotally I've gone even longer and still had a strong fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/SafAle-BE-256.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/SafAle-BE-256.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;STORAGE During  transport : The product can be transported and stored&#xA;  at room  temperature for periods of time not exceeding 3 months&#xA;  without  affecting its performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the original question for others who may find this link: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast stored at 30℃ for 3 weeks would be perfect still. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;~~&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though you said you put it into the freezer, this is where you might have done some real damage. As Evil Zymurgist said, if it's dry yeast you might be okay, just make a starter, and if they are still viable just let the yeast recover it's strength before you use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was a &lt;em&gt;liquid&lt;/em&gt; yeast, and it froze solid, they are all probably dead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the liquid yeast was still 100% a liquid when pulled it out of the freezer, then just make a starter; They are probably fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16150" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T22:00:24.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16449" CreationDate="2018-03-21T10:11:40.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also a chance the plastic taste is coming from Chloroamine in the water. If you didn't treat your water with campden tables, usually 1 tablet/100l, then in futrue you should do so to avoid chemically/plastic/band-aid flavours caused byt he chlorine reating with ploy-phenols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T10:11:40.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16115" CreationDate="2018-03-21T10:19:05.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for bottles suppliers in the UK it can be worth checking out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.siba.co.uk/directory/supplier-associate-members/bottle-glass-can-manufacturers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SIBA directory&lt;/a&gt;. Some of these will be able to supply home brew quantities, and if not they may be able to point you towards resellers who can supply sub-pallet quantities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T10:19:05.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21905" CreationDate="2018-03-21T10:56:18.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commercial brewries in the UK, as Grain Mother points out will start with the water quality report provided by the local water company. Smaller breweries here in the UK will reguallay send of samples to companies such as BrewLab, Murphy &amp;amp; Son and Campden BRI to have water analysis done on a 500ml sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Murphy do one or two free tests a year for their customers, and do more for a small fee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger breweies will have in house labs and daily or weekly check the water entering their facilities, using titration, indicator chenicals and a photospectrometer. Also they will often pass the water through RO and then add back the ions to the correct levels for the brand being produced that day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are off the shelf tests, previously not availabale via home brew suppliers, but lab supply shops do carry these tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hach.com/hardnessguide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.hach.com/hardnessguide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lamotte.com/en/blog/test-factors/75-measuring-water-hardness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.lamotte.com/en/blog/test-factors/75-measuring-water-hardness&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://watertestingkits.com/test-for-water-hardness/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://watertestingkits.com/test-for-water-hardness/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple test strips you can get via amazon etc..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00XCUVLLM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00XCUVLLM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tests are not hugely accuarate but do at least give you banding tha you can pair up with a municipal water report to have a good idea of the incoming water hardness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T10:56:18.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22683" CreationDate="2018-03-21T12:47:23.937" Score="6" ViewCount="468" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother and my father both brewed the same beer at the same time in the same general area.  General area being each at their own home, but separated by about 20 miles and they are in different counties.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They used the same bag of yeast, the same bag of grains and everything, just to try to make it consistent.  The equipment was essentially the same, my brother being newer at homebrewing than my father.  They both used the same recipe for beer.  It was a simple lager, forget the actual recipe name, but nothing dark or complex with tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both had measured to the same specific gravity and ended at the same within a small margin.&#xA;When the beer was finished, they had two different tasting beers.  Same general or basic taste, they both tasted like a simple lager, not a light beer, but just simple.&#xA;The only difference that we could think of was the water source.  Both are from the same river, but the two different counties process the water differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a different reason for this taste difference you would think?  Is this that plausible?  How important is water content (sulfites, hard vs soft water, water acidity, water akalinity, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9614" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T12:27:11.700" Title="Difference of water content for difference in taste" Tags="|water|taste|water-filtration|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22681" CreationDate="2018-03-21T14:25:00.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, water has drastic effects on your beer.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your recipe, being simple, lends to allowing the water profile to shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though your water source is close in local, different wells and Processing can contain different minerals and salts or chemicals for sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water is generally 90%+ of your beer.&#xA;Volumes can be written about how ions in water effect your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many beers are known to be great just from their water source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Duplicating famous water profiles is a great skill to learn. For example Burton on trents water is known as burtonizing your profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;John Palmers - Water.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;Is a great reference book to start making water adjustments in your brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T14:46:59.437" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T14:46:59.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22681" CreationDate="2018-03-21T15:00:59.660" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different water profiles can change the taste of your beer. Especially when you brew a beer with - as you say - &quot;nothing [...] complex with tastes&quot;. When there is no big hop aroma or lots of alcohol in the beer, the subtle influence of the water shines through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water chemistry can accent the hop bitterness, and it can also support the malt flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though the &quot;breweries&quot; aren't so far apart from each other, they can have complete different water. Even within a city the water can be from different sources. When I lived in Heidelberg, Germany, the water in the old town of the city was known for its soft water, that came from the mountains behind the castle. The rest of the city had harder water from a different source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to get a water report for both breweries or even better buy a water testing kit like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://sensafe.com/exact-idip/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iDip&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lamotte.com/en/food-beverage/brewlab&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BrewLab from LaMotte&lt;/a&gt;. You need to know how your water is before you change it. Or start with distilled or RO water and add the salts that match the beer style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bru'n Water Website&lt;/a&gt;: it is a great resource for information on water and offers a water calculator, to find out how to manipulate your water for different beer styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastEditorUserId="8277" LastEditDate="2018-03-22T12:27:11.700" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T12:27:11.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22687" CreationDate="2018-03-21T15:08:34.467" Score="7" ViewCount="1039" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I started brewing I used a plate chiller to chill my wort. I didn't like the process, and now I add cold water after the whirlpool and to get the wort down the last 10°C I put into my fermentation chamber with temp control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware of the infection risk, and am still wondering if this style of cooling will influence the taste of my beer. I don't recognize any off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I design the recipe with the addition of the water that I add after the whirlpool. BrewSmith calculates the changes in IBU, final gravity and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastEditorUserId="8277" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T16:22:44.223" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T16:40:18.947" Title="How does chilling my wort slowly affect the taste of my beer?" Tags="|flavor|chilling|no-chill|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22684" CreationDate="2018-03-21T15:20:59.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of a few possible things that might differ (assuming your recipe takes the cold water addition into account):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You've already mentioned the sterilising effect of boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boil volume can have an effect on hop isomerisation - the lower the volume, the lower the IBU.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;pH has an effect on hop isomerisation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A change in cooling rate will also affect hop isomerisation, though this is a commonly consideed variable anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308814610006643&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308814610006643&lt;/a&gt; for some info on these effects).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boiling water also boils off chloramine, which can give off flavours in the final beer (if using mains water which has been treated with it).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Caramelisation and maillard reactions &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be affected by concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15922" LastEditorUserId="15922" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T16:03:48.047" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T16:03:48.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22684" CreationDate="2018-03-21T16:59:26.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try No Chill brewing where you don't worry about chilling the wort. &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/no-chill-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://beerandbrewing.com/no-chill-brewing/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T16:59:26.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22684" CreationDate="2018-03-21T18:03:06.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the biggest concerns of a slow chill are....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DMS&lt;/strong&gt; (cooked corn flavor) is created from SMM when wort is hot. DMS will form until below 140°F (60°C). SMM is boiled off during boil, it's why we do an open lid boil. SMM has a half life of 37 minutes. 90minute boils usually reduce SMM levels below the perception threshold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unwanted bittering&lt;/strong&gt; late addition hops (less than 45min) continue to isomerize until wort drops below 175°F (79°C)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Infection&lt;/strong&gt; bacteria love warm temps. Below 160°F (71°C) (pasteurization temp) the wort is at risk of infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as adding cold water to chill, this could be very effective at dropping the wort below those critical temps very fast. But I would make sure the water is sanitary or sterile (pre boiled, chilled, sealed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the last 10°F(~5°C) allowed to slow chill. It's a common practice with few side effects other than risk of bacteria taking hold before yeast gets going. It may in some cases delay your pitch and add to the overall brew to glass time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: forgot this initially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chill Haze&lt;/strong&gt; when wort cools slowly this allows certain proteins to remain suspended resulting in chill haze. The thermal shock of a rapid chill of the wort causes them to drop out. Usually have to drop below 80°F (27°C) within 15 minutes for sufficient thermal shock. Chill haze is identified in finished beer by being hazy when cold but then gets clear when it warms up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-03-22T16:40:18.947" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T16:40:18.947" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22681" CreationDate="2018-03-21T19:04:14.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, water has a decent impact on flavor and mouthfeel of beer.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mineral composition&lt;/em&gt; of the water will affect flavor. In beer clone recipes it's not uncommon to see a specification of the mineral composition. Additionally, I've read that river water have a tendency to change minerals contents depending on the season. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;alkalinity and acidity&lt;/em&gt; of the water will affect mash efficiency and aroma gained from hops. Its not uncommon for water treatment plants to tune this. It's can be balanced with lactic acid or baking soda (or brewers salts). When doing so it's good to be aware of the temperature offset discussion. Every now and then I've come across articles or blog posts displeased with the results. Excellent &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/mr-wizard/setting-record-straight-mash-ph/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blog post&lt;/a&gt; goes into detail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Chlorine and chloramine&lt;/em&gt; treatment of water may differ even with a shared water source. Chlorine is an oxidant so it can do tremendous damage to a beer if not neutralized when beer is sensitive to oxygen. It can be neutralized by boiling or by adding ascorbic acid. Personally I boil water for 10-15 minutes, but the recommended approach were I live is to add 1 mm&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; of ascorbic acid per liter of tap water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However there many other factors to consider&lt;/strong&gt;. I’ve had batches split to two fermentation vessels turning out quite differently. I assumed this had to do with the amount of residual hops in the vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The viability of the yeast plays an important part. It doesn’t take much for it to decay. Low viability or under pitching will produce some off flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fermentation temperature will affect production of phenolic flavor compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="15826" LastEditDate="2018-03-22T05:14:55.783" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T05:14:55.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22681" CreationDate="2018-03-22T10:50:58.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have already stated different water profiles will change the flavour of the &quot;same&quot; beer. Here is a quick run down of the ions in water that are going to affect the final flavour:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calcium[Ca]&lt;/strong&gt;: Can bind with phosphates and lower mash pH, which can change the activity levels of alpha and beta amylase, thereby affecting the wort sugar, dextrin balance. This can change OG but more likely the fermentability and therefore residual sugars and mouth-feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sodium[Na]&lt;/strong&gt;: Levels from 75 to 150 ppm give a round smoothness and accentuate sweetness, which is most pleasant when paired with chloride ions than when associated with sulphate ions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the presence of sulphate, sodium creates an unpleasant harshness, so the rule of thumb is that the more sulphate in the water, the less sodium there should be (and vice versa).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Potassium [K]&lt;/strong&gt;: can impart a slightly salty flavour, but is required for yeast growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sulphates [SO4]&lt;/strong&gt;: Can inhibit hop utilisation, reducing overall bitterness. Can lead to a crisp dry finish to the beer, but in excess can have a harsh salty finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chlordie[Cl]&lt;/strong&gt;: Ca and Mg chlorides give body, palate fullness, and soft-sweet flavor to beer. The roundness on the palate given by sodium chloride (common table salt) makes this salt well suited for all types of sweet beers including dark beers and stouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Iron[Fe]&lt;/strong&gt;: usually not an issue, but if in too high levels can leave a harsh metallic aftertaste; often due to poor re-passivisation after a caustic wash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This book is a great reference for all things beer and water: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00HTJXNVI/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;John Palmer - Water: A Comprehensive Guide for Brewers (Brewing Elements)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T10:50:58.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22692" CreationDate="2018-03-22T16:51:12.737" Score="7" ViewCount="3818" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the boil a lot of water is evaporated off. I have a 30L boiler and generally end up with around 22L in the fermentation vessel. After racking off from the fermentation and leaving the trub behind I can end up with as little as 19L worth of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To increase the amount of beer at the end or to intentionally reduce the ABV I occasionally add water (same sterile water used for mashing) to the fermentation vessel just before pitching the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the effects of adding water at this stage? Pros vs cons.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow up question. I intend to upgrade my equipment in the future. I have 30L kegs I use in my kegerator so 30L is the target batch size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between the above method of adding water to get up to 30L vs having a large enough boiler which can boil down to 30L? Is one better than the other, if so, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T01:48:24.393" Title="What are the effects of adding water after the boil?" Tags="|all-grain|boil|water|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22691" CreationDate="2018-03-22T17:00:44.247" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have designed your recipe to account for adding the extra water at the end of the boil, then I see no issues what so ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would personally add a couple of litres of boiling water every 10 min or so rather than adding it all at the end, just to avoid over concentrating the sugars in the wort, which may encourage caramelisation &amp;amp; Maillard reactions and hamper hop utilisation. However, it depends what you want from the brew, these may be desirable in your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-12-03T19:10:01.210" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T19:10:01.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22691" CreationDate="2018-03-22T22:03:08.347" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two potential, but not serious, issues with boiling the volume lower than full:&#xA;1. Maillard reactions (not caramelisation) at higher wort gravity tend to be more prominent. Sometimes it's good (e.g. when you boil down first runnings when making dubbel), other times not so good (witbier and other light stuff).&#xA;2. Hops tend to be under-utilised in smaller volume boil. This is a common-sense based wisdom, but kinda difficult to measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these reasons boiling the full volume is more predictable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to streamline my brewing processes as much as possible, hence find preparing extra sterile water for diluting wort an extra trouble (btw you don't need sterile water for mashing, just tap water - corrected for chemistry - is good enough). If I were you, it would be getting a bigger kettle (in fact, I have 50l one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T22:03:08.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22655" CreationDate="2018-03-23T03:02:48.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First a bit of backgound ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a nitro head on canned or bottled beer you need two things. Nitrogen dissolved in the beer, and some means of getting the nitrogen out of the beer as small bubbles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&amp;amp;Sect2=HITOFF&amp;amp;u=%2Fnetahtml%2FPTO%2Fsearch-adv.htm&amp;amp;r=26&amp;amp;p=1&amp;amp;f=G&amp;amp;l=50&amp;amp;d=PTXT&amp;amp;S1=Guinness.ASNM.&amp;amp;OS=AN/Guinness&amp;amp;RS=AN/Guinness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;US version of the original Guinness draught flow patent&lt;/a&gt; specifies a dissolved nitrogen content of 0.015 to 0.035 vols. This may not sound like much but that equates to about 40ml of nitrogen in a pint, and is enough to create a 1cm head. Professor Charles Bamforth is the undisputed King of Froth. In &lt;a href=&quot;http://immaculatebrewery.com/content/images/sciencepapers/The%20Relative%20Significance%20of%20Physics%20and%20Chemistry%20for%20Beer%20Foam%20Excellence%20-%20Theory%20and%20Practice.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt; he explains why nitrogen produces a much better head than carbon dioxide. In short the difficulty in producing small bubbles is that surface tension means the gas pressure must be higher. In a typical beer the pressure inside a 1 micron bubble is about 3bar. With CO2 the gas at pressure dissolves into the wall of the bubble, and can then effuse into an adjacent bubble. By a process known as &lt;em&gt;disproportionation&lt;/em&gt; small bubbles get smaller and large bubbles get larger. Because nitrogen is much less soluble in the bubble wall it has a far lesser tendency to disproportionation. Hence it will stay as small bubbles, and a thick dense foam.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So back to the dual problems of dissolving nitrogen and creating small bubbles. The problem with bottling nitro beer is that nitrogen won't stay in a supersaturated solution in the way that CO2 does. As soon as the head pressure is released from the beer the nitrogen comes out of solution and is gone. In order to counter-pressure bottle it the head pressure must be maintained while the bottle is capped i.e. the whole mechanism must be in a pressurised chamber. Left Hand have been pretty quiet about how they get round this problem, but another brewer, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.packagingdigest.com/cans/nitrocan-delivers-widget-less-pub-style-beer1507/page/0/1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vault&lt;/a&gt;, has hinted that they inject liquid nitrogen into the bottle and then cap it quickly before it all boils off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear whether Vault do anything to assist the formation of small bubbles other than the &quot;vigorous pour&quot; advice. I've seen speculation that Left Hand etch the interior base of the bottle to provide nucleation sites. In the canned version of Nitro Stout they use a widget similar to Guinness draftflow system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you can do this at home depends on your access to liquid nitrogen and nano-tech. However, the easier way to get a nitro head is just to bubble nitrogen (or even air) through a 0.5 micron carb stone after you've poured the beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastEditorUserId="13805" LastEditDate="2018-03-24T01:36:12.227" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T01:36:12.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2018-03-24T19:11:36.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is much more to this question than how much sugar and how much alcohol !&#xA;It is about the taste of the beer.&#xA;My 15 years of brewing has strongly borne out what is stated in &quot;The Art of Making Beer&quot;; Anderson &amp;amp; Hull; 1971 :&#xA;&quot;...cane sugar is a disaccharide. Yeast cannot act directly on a disaccharide.&#xA;...What happens if you use cane sugar for beer ? The yeast will produce an enzyme called invertase, that eventually inverts the sugar and allows fermentation to proceed. But for various reasons this process leaves a slightly sour aftertaste that cannot be eliminated from the beer. This sourness is one of the most common faults in home-brewed beer. &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having made my share of mistakes, if I am going to the trouble and expense of brewing, sanitation, bottling, and all the rest, why would I not give my yeast the best possible chance to produce the beer I am expecting to get ?  Makes no sense to handicap the yeast by cutting corners on the sugar I use !&#xA;If I want bad-tasting beer I can always buy a bud or a coors :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;Bob &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16161" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T19:11:36.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22705" CreationDate="2018-03-27T09:24:57.113" Score="2" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have spent a fair amount of time recently looking into Brett, Brett Sacc and Mixed fermentation; for my next project, but one thing I have really struggled to find is any graphs of different Brett strains or mixed fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I have found so far is this page from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.port66.co.uk/brewing-brettanomyces/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Port66&lt;/a&gt; which looks at the fermentation velocity of 100% pure Brett fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone else have any sources for other Brett/Sacc fermentation or mixed ( Brett/Sacc/LAB or Brett/Sacc/LAB/Pedio)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are none I will have to do the brews and graph them up and share; I may well do this anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-03-28T15:04:35.833" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T15:04:35.833" Title="Fermentation velocity of Brettanomyces Graphs" Tags="|fermentation|brettanomyces|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22704" CreationDate="2018-03-27T09:40:31.330" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done many many brews with untreated local tap water, and I have only 3 times had an issue with chlorophenols. I now treat the tap water with 1 campden tablet/100l/20gl. But, revieing my records it looks like it was only pale ales that were affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads me to question do darker ales in some way buffer the chlorophenols?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something in dark or aromatic malts that reduces chlorophenol generation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just when it happens they mask the flavour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is this just random chance and it affects all ales the same but I just happen to have been affected on 3 pales?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T14:59:51.553" Title="Do darker ales suffer less with choloramines/chlorophenols?" Tags="|off-flavor|chloramines|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22697" CreationDate="2018-03-27T12:31:21.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’d believe that a darker ales will mask more flavor compounds than lighter ones. This tends to be the case for other flavor and aroma compounds also. In my experience the same goes for double IPAs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T12:31:21.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22701" CreationDate="2018-03-27T13:02:37.507" Score="3" ViewCount="944" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm experimenting with doing extract brews with as little effort as possible, but have run into a problem when it comes to adding oats to a brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As oats themselves doesn't contain the necessary enzymes, I know that you need to steep them together with some malts in order to extract the sugars we're after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question though, is if it would be possible to steep the flaked oats with Diastatic Malt Powder (such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kingarthurflour.com/shop/items/diastatic-malt-powder-4-oz-jar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preferably I'd like to use oat extracts directly, but the only product I've found is one made by a Finnish company called Senson, and it doesn't seem to be sold anywhere...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16168" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T22:01:39.940" Title="Steeping flaked oat with Diastatic malt powder" Tags="|extract|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22700" CreationDate="2018-03-27T13:53:40.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you want to use oats for fermentables. So I'll focus on the how's for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quick answer:&lt;/strong&gt; adding oats and enzymes as a steep in a full boil for the above purpose won't work well. Mainly because the enzymes would be too diluted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solution&lt;/strong&gt; is to mini mash the grains in a smaller volume of wort or water with brewers enzymes. The enzymes are usually a blend of alpha and beta amylase. 149°F does well for full conversion. However it's just easier to make 50% off this grist with 6-Row for the enzymes. Since it needs a mash anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Things to keep in mind.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;Most flaked oats are already gelatinized to some extent ready to be mashed. The recommended cook time is the indicator, &quot;instant&quot; etc. The shorter the more they are gelatinized. Anything other than instant oats will benifiet from or need a cereal mash to make the starches available for enzymes to convert to sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beta-glucanase rest.  This will help thin out the oats. Hold between 104-122°F for 30 min after cereal mash but before the mini mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oats for haze and body and flavor&lt;/strong&gt; if you're not looking for the fermentables of the oats, you can steep the flaked oats. This will give the beer starch haze, body, flavor etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T13:53:40.113" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-27T14:02:26.077" Score="4" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;First attempt at home brew. Not sure what to look for. My brewing time line so far is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;28 days in fermenter tank. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottled at room temp for 36 days. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put in fridge yesterday, 24 hours refrigerated so far. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottles have small rafts floating on top, will those settle? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long should I leave in fridge before trying?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thx Ken&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16169" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T21:35:28.230" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T19:31:14.043" Title="First time brewing with Mr. Beer" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|conditioning|kits|beginner|sediment|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22702" CreationDate="2018-03-27T14:25:44.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Floating things in the bottle after that period of time doesn't sound good... Did you add some sort of solids like dry hops or spices to the fermentation? Could be yeast of course, but this usually settles at the bottom. Or did you shake it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to be sure: try it. It should be carbonated and if it doesn't smell bad it is probably good to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question a bit more: 36 days in the bottle is usually( for a 'normal' beer ) more than enough time to carbonate the beer. After that it is ready to drink. You can put it in the fridge to cool it so it taste more refreshing but it is not a necessary step of the brewing proces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastEditorUserId="15915" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T14:33:20.093" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T14:33:20.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22697" CreationDate="2018-03-27T14:59:51.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Dark malts and residual sugars definitely help mask the offending phenol. But not completely, coffee from tap water is the best example. In black coffee chloraphenol is pretty easy to detect, but add some cream and sugar and it becomes bareable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) This is only speculation. I think it's possible that your dark grains had a carbon filter effect reducing the chloramine to lower detectable levels. Many very dark grains are roasted to just before a carbonizing. But the husk would easily be carbonized in the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T14:59:51.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22696" CreationDate="2018-03-27T15:19:25.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start with&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.milkthefunk.com&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; These guys have done it all. They have a great wiki on mixed fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the type of graph your asking for really has too many variables to quantify in a simple graph and no one has been up to the challenge. Just to hit the major points would have to factor. OGs, Brett%, Sacc%, Lacto%, Pedio%, etc. Honestly I don't think all the possible interactions with each other have been discovered. Such as at what point will Brett consume Sacc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T15:19:25.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22702" CreationDate="2018-03-27T15:31:20.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Rafts&quot; or anything floating at this stage sounds infected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had good fermentation it's unlikely it will be harmful to sample. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open one, see if you can recover the floaty. &#xA;If its white / creamy color. I would sample taste the beer.&#xA;If it's blue / black. Dump em.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T15:31:20.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22702" CreationDate="2018-03-27T17:01:29.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a likely infection. Be on watch for rope-like shapes, this is commonly caused by &lt;a href=&quot;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/j.2050-0416.1948.tb01372.x&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;acetobacter&lt;/a&gt;. In the meantime 36 days is more than enough for most styles. Depending on style it might have been sitting on the fermenter for too long. I've come across floaters and spotty flask necks when an IPA was in primary for 5 weeks. After a tasting, it was clear it had developed a soapy flavor &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-4/is-my-beer-ruined/common-off-flavors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;as mention by John Palmer&lt;/a&gt; due to long fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="15826" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T18:54:13.383" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T18:54:13.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-27T20:55:38.307" Score="3" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed American Red Ale, great fermentation, no off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11.25 lbs. Malteurop 2-row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.75 lbs. Briess Caramel 60L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 lbs. Belgian Special B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yeast, when fermentation is finished, looks a bit strange. I wanted to add new brew on this yeast cake. Have you ever seen yeast like this, chunks not slurry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CEua.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CEua.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chunky yeast &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15270" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T21:44:04.547" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T08:35:51.353" Title="Chunky yeast Safeale-05 safe to pitch?" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22708" CreationDate="2018-03-27T21:54:04.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as there no off-flavours, should be safe to repitch. It's not just yeast in the cake, but also hot&amp;amp;cold break etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T21:54:04.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22708" CreationDate="2018-03-28T01:52:49.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's just well flocculated yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just break it up the best you can by agitating. Even if there's still clumps the outer yeast will feed and break away and disperse as they produce cO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T01:52:49.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22708" CreationDate="2018-03-28T08:35:51.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks fine, and it is smells fine and the beer off it has no off flavours then you should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the yeast looks a bit odd because usually you would get a wide shallow yeast cake that would allow the CO2 bubbles to diffuse out, but in the longer narrower sight glass you have in the picture, the CO2 will get trapped and disturb the flocculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T08:35:51.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-28T13:19:25.863" Score="6" ViewCount="674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to home brewing. I made a 1 gallon Belgian Ale kit which came out pretty good and then did a 5-gallon Strong Belgian Ale recipe I found on the internet which also came out pretty well. There were a few funny flavors in it but overall it was pretty decent considering my lack of experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm trying to make that same beer again but there were some mistakes made. I also need to verify some information I got from my local brew store&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mistake #1:&lt;/strong&gt; I screwed up when I was making my wort. I'm using LME for my wort and the way I believe it should be done is you boil the water, stir in the LME and then bring back to a boil before adding your hops. I accidentally added the hops &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; it was brought back to a boil. I don't know if it is a deal breaker or not hence my asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mistake #2:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm using a Wyeast smackpack and there are two pockets of nutrients in it. Only one broke. Not sure if this matters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Information verification:&lt;/strong&gt; My recipe calls for 2 packages of yeast. I'm using &quot;Wyeast 1388 Belgian strong ale&quot; smack packs but when I went to my local brew store the guy insisted I only needed one. He seemed really knowledgeable  and figuring he had more experience than me I went with it. As of last night I'm in the secondary fermentation, but after racking to the carboy and adding the honey to the wort there is no airlock/bubbler activity at all like there was in the first batch I made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'm being paranoid, but since I only used one pack of yeast I concerned that there may not be enough yeast left to bring this home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added the honey as was noted above with a little warm distilled water to thin it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Gravities: Starting OG was 1.072 Finished and stabilized in about a week at 1.010 I just added the honey last night so I haven't taken another measurement yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'll grab a second smack pack to hedge my bets. My understanding (Hopefully I'm not wrong) is that it won't have any effect on the taste of the beer as it will just fall to the bottom when there is no more sugar to eat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to read up on making a starter... I've heard that is really the best way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the long first post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16175" LastEditorUserId="16175" LastEditDate="2018-03-28T16:21:00.613" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T01:09:55.623" Title="Making a strong belgian ale" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|ale|process|beginner|belgian|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22712" CreationDate="2018-03-28T13:53:28.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mistake #1&lt;/strong&gt; actually depends on the recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a technique called first wort hopping where the bittering hops are added when the wort is collected from the mash. Normally, one would use 10% less hops than when adding them to the boil. The result could be that your beer is a little bit more bitter than anticipated, but letting it condition longer reduces this bitterness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there were different times to add the hops to the boil, but you added them all at once, then your beer will be much more bitter. Again, this is something that can be alleviated by longer conditioning. In this case, probably at least six months.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are brewing again five gallons, then I am pretty sure you need two smack packs of yeast. In most cases two packs of dried yeast are recommended for big beers, and smack packs contain less yeast. But the best way to know is with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.it/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjl6ajuk4_aAhWDJ1AKHT1hB_8QFggoMAA&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mrmalty.com%2Fcalc%2Fcalc.html&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw0NPgTi1p__LdaeA0Um2Bk7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mr Malty Pitching Calculator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have added your honey while still in primary fermentation. The best way is to dissolve it in some hot water, not too much, just enough to make it more liquid, also not too hot, between 70° C and 80° C should be enough, then let it cool covered and sanitary. Or when using honey, plan before hand to save some wort to dissolve the honey in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you will have now is that there is less yeast in secondary, and the honey will probably reside on the bottom of the tun. It could actually ferment out, but it will take longer. Put it in a warmer place if possible, and think of it as conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-03-28T14:00:28.480" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T14:00:28.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22712" CreationDate="2018-03-28T14:06:56.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What were the gravities? If the fermentation reached a low gravity in reasonable time, the yeast could be in ok condition and eventually ferment the easy sugars from the honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Sorry, didn't read the 1 gallon. In this case, yeah, one smackpack is actually plenty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;One smackpack is definitely not enough though, even two are probably not sufficient to create a clean tasting beer. For example, a 5gal batch of 1.075 need about 350 billion cells, equal to 3-4 new smackpacks. As stated by chthon, use a calculator to calculate the amount of yeast needed.&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice for the future is to create a proper yeast starter. Those high gravity Belgians really require a lot of healthy yeast, or you will end up with a phenolic overkill. If it does, time is your best bet, it will eventually mellow out a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Welcome and I hope it turns our well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastEditorUserId="15915" LastEditDate="2018-03-28T14:18:24.017" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T14:18:24.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22712" CreationDate="2018-03-28T14:54:07.403" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mistake 1, really doesn't matter all will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may end up with a little more bitterness extraction, but is has been reported that FWH can lead to a more mellow bitterness. I really would not worry at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mistake 2, not really all should be fine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would get a cleaner flavour profile if you had used 2 packets of yeast,but your yeast should be happy to complete the fermentation it will just take longer and may suffer a little more stress, but on a 5 gal (25l) batch you should be OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does depend on your gravity, and on the yeast you used, and on the temp you pitched, the amount of airation in the wort. For most strong beers it is worth popping the top after about 48 hours letting some oxygen in and giving it a good shake, the yeast needs more oxygen to allow for more reproduction to handle stronger worts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your secondary/conditioning, you could add a little yeast from a fresh fermentation to ferment out your honey, or just add another pack of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T14:54:07.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22712" CreationDate="2018-03-28T14:56:59.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Hops before boil&lt;/strong&gt; This won't be an issue if the recipe calls for them to be a 45min+ addition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Yeast pitch&lt;/strong&gt; If the recipe calls for two, then use two. &#xA;Most yeast packs are intended for 5 gallons of 1.040 wort. More yeast is needed for higher OGs.&#xA;The LHBS may have been inclined to allow for more ester profile, since it's a Belgian Strong which relies on esters for much of its flavor. But again, I would follow the recipe with two packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reduced nutrients&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This will hinder the yeast health, especially in extract brewing since it doesn't have as much nutrients as with All Grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;With an underpitch of one pack you will have more esters, but run the risk of the yeast giving up before you reach terminal gravity.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-03-29T01:09:55.623" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T01:09:55.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22725" CreationDate="2018-03-28T16:31:37.973" Score="4" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;How effective will isinglass be to clear beer when I did not use Irish moss when I boiled. I know isinglass charged particles attach to the opposite charged particles produced by the Irish moss. My debate is whether to use cheap gelatin now, or to try out my isinglass. I have never fined before this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16176" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T06:13:44.997" Title="Isinglass use without Irish moss" Tags="|fining|isinglass|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22691" CreationDate="2018-03-28T16:43:14.940" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I add nearly freezing water to chill it quicker to pitch temperature. 1 gallon of near frozen I add to  4 gallons of wort to chill it to lager pitch temperature quicker. Once my immersion chiller cannot reduce the temperature any further, I introduce the near freezing water into my wort. I do not notice any negative effects. The hops are still very nice tasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16176" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T16:43:14.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22718" CreationDate="2018-03-28T17:26:46.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the difference (or not) between gelatin and isinglass see &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/21825/whats-the-difference-between-isinglass-and-gelatin.%20Gelatin%20is%20eas&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gelatin is easier to use than isinglass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no need to use Irish moss before using gelatin or isinglass, they work independent of each other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="13805" LastEditDate="2018-03-29T06:13:44.997" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T06:13:44.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22718" CreationDate="2018-03-28T17:32:59.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used Isinglass once, it came with a wine kit and there was no Irish moss involved, but another product that I can't remember the name (perhaps chitosane?).  It should work on its own, wikipedia mentions that :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Isinglass is sometimes used with an auxiliary fining, which further accelerates the process of sedimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isinglass should precipitate yeast cells effectively, but Irish moss seems to coagulate proteins.  They complement each other from what I understand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T17:32:59.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22702" CreationDate="2018-03-28T19:31:14.043" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have too much experience myself(only made 2 batches so far). There is usually a deposit of sediment and yeast at the bottom of the bottle after carbonation. Mine was noticeable after a few days after carbonation and bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like others have said, stringy parts usually indicate an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16179" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T19:31:14.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22718" CreationDate="2018-03-29T01:22:39.443" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Isinglass will work just as well without Irish Moss in the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as Irish Moss and Isinglass working together they are really for two different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Irish Moss is intended to flucculate and drop out hop and grain matter in your cold break. Then this trub is left behind in the kettle/whirlpool and not transfered to the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isinglass is best at fining out yeast after fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I use neither. Cold crash is all that's really needed, gelatin if I want it rushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T01:22:39.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22718" CreationDate="2018-03-29T04:03:09.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issinglass may be totally ineffective if you have too much colloidal haze which is a possible consequence of not using kettle finings. This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mbaa.com/publications/tq/tqPastIssues/2017/Pages/TQ-54-4-1218-01.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;paper&lt;/a&gt; from the MBAA states ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;For  isinglass  to  work  effectively,  brewing  literature  states &#xA;that the beer needs to have a particle distribution in the range &#xA;of  1  ×  10 6   particles  in  each  of  the  following  sizes:  &amp;lt;2,  &#xA;2–10, and &amp;gt;10  μ m. When there are too many or too few par-&#xA;ticles in these ranges, poor clarity, poor settling, or higher beer &#xA;losses can result (13,16). &#xA;When  there  are  too  many  particles  in  the  beer,  the  use  of &#xA;auxiliary finings can be helpful to reduce the amount of parti-&#xA;cles  to  the  optimum  range  stated  above.  Kettle  finings  are &#xA;added  to  the  kettle,  and  auxiliary  finings  are  typically  added &#xA;prior to isinglass in the cellar, or they can be used further up-&#xA;stream in the process.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's more isinglass is difficult to prepare and difficult to store e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.murphyandson.co.uk/function-of-isinglass-finings/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Murphy and Sons&lt;/a&gt; recommend ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  • At no time during mixing or storage should the temperature be &#xA;    allowed to exceed 14° C (57° F) or fall below 10° C (50° F)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gelatin is a better choice for homebrewers, although I prefer PolyClar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T04:03:09.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18220" CreationDate="2018-03-29T13:33:07.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made many batches of pineapple and blackberry wine, and although every book says I should use campden tablets, I have friends who are intolerance to sulphides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such I either pitch a vigorous starter, or heat the must to ~70C for 2 min to pasteurise it, then let it cool before pitching the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid pectin haze if you go the heating route, just add a small amount of pectonase enzyme, when pitching the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T13:33:07.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18220" CreationDate="2018-03-29T14:40:58.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never boil your grapes. It will ruin the flavor and make a hazy mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sulfites are a well known and used anti-oxidant. It's been used for thousands of years in wine. They pose relatively low risk. Your raisins and other dried fruit have way more sulfites than wine. Having said that, there are ways to make wine without it but it involves keeping air (oxygen) away from the wine. This might involve putting the wine in a vessel (keg) that you can put it under a slight pressure of nitrogren or argon to exclude all oxygen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T14:40:58.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22648" CreationDate="2018-03-29T14:45:00.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the CO2 is heavier than any oxygen that may be pulled in from cold crashing.  That CO2 &quot;blanket&quot; at the beer's surface should keep the O2 from affecting your beer.  Or if your fermentation is complete, you could even cap the tank during cold crash and prevent the O2 from getting in at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16183" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T14:45:00.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14975" CreationDate="2018-03-29T22:42:58.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given their additional experiments of testing lagers fermented entirely at warmer temperatures, it would seem the answer is because the lager yeasts being used simply do not produce estery flavors or other off flavors at temperatures suitable for non-lager yeasts (60s and 70s). It would seem the lager yeast is what makes the difference between a lager and ale. One commenter on their site made a really great point that historically lager yeasts and ale yeasts were not kept as pure strains, that's a more modern advancement that we have available. In which case the only way to get a lager originally was to ferment it at temperatures that would cause non-lager yeasts to go dormant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16185" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T22:42:58.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14975" CreationDate="2018-03-30T00:41:45.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's simply because esters are produced only during growth phase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once yeast has consumed the oxygen this triggers the end of growth and into feeding phase. Seeing that the SG has reached 50% of TG is confirmation growth is done and feeding his well underway. So it's ok at this point to increase their metabolism with temperature. But not too warm or then you can get undesirable fusal alcohols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same rush fermenting can be done using a full pitch or existing yeast cake. Skipping growth phase completely. (no O2 needed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lager yeast is kept at low temps only to retard the metabolism. In simple terms make it so they only have energy for cell devision and feed slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-04-04T13:25:05.120" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T13:25:05.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-30T00:42:46.553" Score="2" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are trying to develop a method to dry spent grains with a small DIY solar dryer.  When we pick up the spent grain it is get too much volume for our dryer and then how to store it.  Our drying process is very small and slow.  We do not have the ability to freeze the spent grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have developed and plan to use a 5-gal bucket system in which the lid pushes all the air out of the bucket.  The lid has an airlock.   We plan to put the spent grain in these 5-gal buckets with water, push the air out, put in the airlock and store them until the dryers are free to process the spent grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our questions are:&#xA;1.  Will this work?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2.  Should we mix yeast or sugar into the buckets to keep them from spoiling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are not brewers, so this is all new to us. Thanks for any input&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16184" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T12:24:07.283" Title="How to store spent grain while waiting on your dryers" Tags="|spent-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22731" CreationDate="2018-03-30T00:54:10.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually it will sour within hours of after being mashed unless dried or pasturized right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I know to &quot;preserve&quot; it would be to boil it to kill the lactobacilla. Then sealing should preserve it awhile so it can be dried at a later time. But may not be worth it financially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what your using it for.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Most that use it for feed just serve it up damp asap, animals generally know once lacto has turned it sour and don't touch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Water filled&lt;/strong&gt; no, this will not work. The grain is already &quot;infected&quot;, filling with water and using an air-lock is futile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Adding sugar and yeast&lt;/strong&gt; This also won't work as the grain already has lactobacilla, and it would consume the sugars before yeast could get started to make preservative alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-03-30T12:24:07.283" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T12:24:07.283" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22815" CreationDate="2018-03-30T20:13:36.867" Score="2" ViewCount="4239" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, beer wort is relatively rich in nutrients and mead must is nutrient-poor.  &lt;strong&gt;Where does cider fit on this spectrum?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically do small batches and pitch pretty generously, one dry yeast packet split between two one-gallon batches.  I always use some adjunct sugars, either brown sugar, juice concentrate, or honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping to get a batch started this weekend - do you think it would benefit from some nutrient?  Would something like Mangrove Jack's M02 that claims to have nutrient in it suffice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T05:57:06.967" Title="Does cider need yeast nutrient?" Tags="|yeast|cider|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22733" CreationDate="2018-03-30T20:26:40.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, cider needs a lot of nutrients for healthy yeast growth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a couple ways to get around adding nutrients. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Full pitch of yeast.&lt;/strong&gt; This basically skips a growth phase be case all the needed yeast is there. Usually done by racking juice on top of your last batches yeast trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Malted Cider&lt;/strong&gt; in a 50/50 blend wort/Apple juice. This will give yeast all the nutrients it needs. Also the residual unfermentable sugars in the wort, usually eliminate the need to backsweeten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T20:26:40.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22738" CreationDate="2018-03-31T10:44:24.283" Score="2" ViewCount="1455" Body="&lt;p&gt;To elaborate, the recipe I have was for 20 litre batch at OG 1046. I used my 12 litre (safely boilable) pot to mash the 4.3 kg grain bill specified for a 20 litre batch. My problem was that I only ended up with 12 litres of wort at 1044 in my FV after liquoring back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite keeping the amount of grain the same I didn’t end up with wort concentrated enough to get near my 20 litres target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was it ever possible meet the 20 litre volume with my 12 litre pot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I can’t work out where I went wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: As requested, this update gives the recipe used, which is the Munich Helles from James Morton's book, BREW. However in terms of method I didn't follow the books Lager Method in terms of water quantities as I decided to use a 12 litre pot for mash/boil and use the liquor back approach which is discussed in the book albeit in an on/off manner throughout the book. (FYI The book suggests it's possible with a 10 litre pot, but its never discussed wrt to a specific recipe)... (i'd recommend the book though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TARGET NUMBERS&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;br&gt; OG 1.046-1.048 &lt;br&gt; FINAL GRAVITY 1.011-1.013 &lt;br&gt; ABV: 4.5% - 4.7% &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;BATCH SIZE&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt; 20 Litres &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Estimated Efficiency 70%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GRAIN BILL&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pilsner Malt, German 4.3kg (9.5lb) &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(I asked for the grain to be crushed, the MaltMiller.co.uk did this for me) &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;HOPS:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;First wort hop: Hallertauer (4% AA) 40g (1.5 oz) &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Aroma Steep: Hallertauer (4% AA) 60g (2.125 oz) &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;YEAST:&lt;/strong&gt; GERMAN LAGER YEAST: WLP830 &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 IRISH MOSS TABLET (I used Protofloc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Method&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt; &#xA;Prepare a starter a week before in 2 phases from 2 pure yeast sachets, based on a yeast calculators estimate of my required cell count. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MASH IN&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I insulated the 12 litre pot with 4 layers of large bubble wrap and string and lined it with the grain bag. I filled it the with 9 litres at 69.5°C , as 2:1 ratio is quoted as a minimum, and poured in the 4.3kg grain, and pushed the grain down with a plastic paddle so the water covered it. I then stirred a little so that there were no obvious clumps of dry grain. The water temperature dropped to 50°C (ish), although it was impossible to get a confident reading, as it was so thick. I then added just boiled water in 500 ml increments until i was getting my target 65°C and started a 1 hour timer and put the glass lid on. I checked this approximately 15 min intervals and it appeared to approximately hold the temperature for the whole hour (again it was hard to know if the reading was representative of all the pot.) i believe there was about 11 litres of water in the pot, at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MASH OUT&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I attempted to raise the grain temperature, initially on maximum heat (gas), to 75°C but i had a differential of about 15C between the edge of the pot at (85C) and the centre of the grain at (70°C), I kept trying to stir the grain but to no real avail over 15 mins. I effectively gave up and moved onto the sparge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SPARGE&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I pulled out the grain into a massive caterers mixing bowl and poured over 2 litres of water at 75°C, and let it rest for 10 mins. The grain was sat in the water as all the grain and the 2 litres of water fit in the bowl. &lt;strong&gt;In hindsight - Perhaps the bowl should have been intentionally small so that water in the grain bag would drip into the bowl rather than soak into the grain more?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;After the 10 mins was up, i gently squeezed the grain bag and I poured the water from the bowl into the pot with the wort and dumped the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BOIL&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I should have taken a starting gravity reading here, but i didn't! I did however use my glass thermometer to allow me to calculate the volume of wort as being 5.5 litres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added my first wort hops and put maximum heat on and brought the wort to a boil (no lid), I now added 2 more litres of water (i think should have done before it started boiling) i figured it was better to add more water before boil completion as it would definitely be sanitary, &lt;strong&gt;perhaps there is a better reason not to do this?&lt;/strong&gt; I let it boil for 90 mins (no lid). 15 mins before the end of boil I added 1 Protofloc tablet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;STEEP&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I added about 1 litre of cold sanitary water and got the temperature between 75°C and 79°C, added the aroma hops and let them steep for 30 mins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LIQUOR BACK&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I took a gravity reading, and using a online calculator worked out the gravity at 20°C was 1.105 (i think), i was sure how water to add so i just added &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; and got to just under 12 litres at 20°C and what i settled as being my Original Gravity of 1.044, meaning i diluted it too much without getting near 20 litre batch, hence my reason for this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;COOL for PITCHING&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I put the lid on and sealed it with starsan covered clingfilm and placed the pot in the sink in cold water (7°C). This took me hours, as i didn't have ice and only half the pot was in contact with the cold water. [I'm going to make a wort chiller even for this smallish pot or at the very least boil and freeze some water the night before to liquor back with.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The target was stated as being 8°C, but as the yeast is happy at 8°C to 12°C, i ended up settling for 12°C before i transferred to FV and dumped all the yeast in and gave it a good shake. My FV fridge is set to 8°C and certainly fermentation had started 24 hours later, but it was by no means a vigorous airlock bubbling like you get with an ale at 20°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realized later my yeast amount was for a 20 litre, so i presume i've over pitched, but i understand that's preferable to under pitching, but that has nothing to do with my mash efficiency which is the suspected reason for my poor wort concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16192" LastEditorUserId="16192" LastEditDate="2018-04-01T15:04:48.727" LastActivityDate="2018-04-01T15:44:40.227" Title="Can I all grain brew 20 litre lager batch using 12 litre pot and same 4.3 kg grain bill?" Tags="|all-grain|small-batch|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22736" CreationDate="2018-03-31T12:23:07.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand correctly you're trying to mash the same amount of grains in less water with the intention to add water later to reach the planned volume and OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While that's, I suppose, hypothetically possible it's very hard at least. The ratio between water and grains is important. As the ratio of grains goes up, the efficiency of the mash goes down. The reason being, in layman's terms as I don't know any better, that there's a limit to how much sugars the water can act as solvent on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could solve this by doing multiple mashes/boils with the right water to grain ratios and then just combine them. Simply split the process up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or.. you could just get a bigger pot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often people add elements to food grade buckets and do the process that way. Something to look into?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16030" LastActivityDate="2018-03-31T12:23:07.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22736" CreationDate="2018-03-31T14:31:11.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You just had very poor mash efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the causes and solutions have been covered in other Q&amp;amp;A here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When done correctly you should be able to easily produce 10l of 1.096 wort post boil and dilute to 20l for 1.046&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Ran some of your numbers. DP fine, water/grist ratio fine. Looks like you actually got ok mash efficiency but saccharification may not have completed. Your overall efficiency was also dropped by the grain absorption (5 liters) and the sparge/rinse method wasn't effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving forward: &#xA;Iodine check the mash for completion rather than a timer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspend the grain bag above the pot to let drain. Then put the grain bag in a strainer bowl above the pot, pour 168F water through the grain into the pot to get 10l total wort volume. Squeeze the grain bag to get the grain dry as possibe. &#xA;This should get you close to the 1.096 10l target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-04-01T15:44:40.227" LastActivityDate="2018-04-01T15:44:40.227" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22740" CreationDate="2018-03-31T17:11:10.243" Score="2" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me where to find the full text of Balling's article/book where his famous equation comes from? (I don't mind if it is in German).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16147" LastActivityDate="2018-03-31T18:16:09.137" Title="Balling's paper on ABV full text?" Tags="|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22739" CreationDate="2018-03-31T17:29:39.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't read German but from a bit of Googling I see references to &quot;Die Bierbrauerei&quot;, though it looks like this appears in several works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, &lt;a href=&quot;https://scholar.google.com/scholar?hl=en&amp;amp;as_sdt=0%2C36&amp;amp;q=%22Die+Bierbrauerei%22+Karl+Balling&amp;amp;btnG=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;searching Google Scholar&lt;/a&gt; I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?hl=en&amp;amp;lr=&amp;amp;id=mZk5AAAAcAAJ&amp;amp;oi=fnd&amp;amp;pg=PA3&amp;amp;dq=%22Die+Bierbrauerei%22+Karl+Balling&amp;amp;ots=0IChpPV3Kh&amp;amp;sig=D-zGI_ertekvkrisj8mGoXv-D3E#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, which seems promising.  I'm not 100% sure if this is what you're looking for but there are other books/papers by Karl Balling in the search results that may be it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2018-03-31T18:16:09.137" LastActivityDate="2018-03-31T18:16:09.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-01T10:27:06.200" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm know enjoying my first batch of beer. I think, it will be some kinda use for those who are hesitating to start their brew or still researching. I did quite much research before i did brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During brew day I was much afraid of contaminating wort. It happened at some level but finished beer is ok. I will explain how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I malted my own barley and roasted it. It took me quite long time to malt 5 kg of barley at home conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, I thought that crushing malt with roller pin would gave me the same output as malt mill but I was mistaken. As a result, half of the malt wasn't cracked at all. I found out about it after brew by observing steeped malt. So, my advice here is that you better use grain mill, or blender if you don't have a mill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, It took me about 40-50 minutes to cool down 15Lof hot wort from 100C to 22C in cold bath. As I don't have a wort chiller. My advice: buy or make one for yourself. Unfortunately, I added some 5L more water but it lowered gravity. My advice is not to overadjust gravity of your wort. Do it little by little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourthly, I did sanitation with StarSan while cooling wort down. However, I got infection somehow. The wort didn't ferment much, only 5-7 days then it stopped. But i didn't touch it until 14 days after sealing it. Bottled beer with brown sugar, it worked well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fifthly, I had ordered wort racking cane late, therefore I had to pour wort from carboy glass to bottles through cotton and cloth filter but it was inefficient. Some of the yeast got into bottles. Do not repeat my mistake.&#xA;After 2 weeks I tasted my beer. It was well carbonated, around 1.5% alcohol and some sour taste. I did research about sour taste, it happens bcoz of infection from cold side of storage. Full article here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/ask-the-experts-source-of-unintentional-sour-flavors-in-beer/?utm_campaign=editorial&amp;amp;utm_medium=email&amp;amp;utm_source=autopilot&amp;amp;utm_content=sticke-altbier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://beerandbrewing.com/ask-the-experts-source-of-unintentional-sour-flavors-in-beer/?utm_campaign=editorial&amp;amp;utm_medium=email&amp;amp;utm_source=autopilot&amp;amp;utm_content=sticke-altbier&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;In general, i am happy with my first result. I was afraid to ruin everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.5kg caramel malt (malted and roasted myself)&#xA;0.5kg dark malt malted and roasted myself)&#xA;1 bar of dark chocolate&#xA;30gr Sapphire hops at 60 min&#xA;30gr Sapphire hops at 30 min&#xA;30gr Sapphire hops at 0 min&#xA;1 tbsp of baker's yeasts. &#xA;20L water during step mashing&#xA;5L water after boil &#xA;Result:&#xA;Aroma: Chocolate, nutty, citrus&#xA;Flavor: Sour, chocolate,&#xA;Color: reddish-brown&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9u6Cd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ixEMx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15977" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-04-03T15:18:50.933" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T15:18:50.933" Title="First batch result" Tags="|first-time-brewer|malt|chocolate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2018-04-06T13:37:35.267" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22743" CreationDate="2018-04-02T09:56:49.410" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m asking this because I’m thinking it might be possible to reduce the cost of my grain bill if the resulting mash efficiency can be increased to compensate for the fewer grains. The idea would be to then liquor back post boil to get to the same batch volume desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand there is a limit to this saving because there will be a limit to the amount of fermentables in a grain. However increasing from say 60% to 85% mash efficiency due to a thinner mash and more favourable water grain ratio seems reasonable to me at the moment, hence I’m asking the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16192" LastActivityDate="2018-04-02T14:49:38.427" Title="Can scaling down a recipes grain bill lead to increased mash efficiency in a smaller pot while maintaining the same final batch size?" Tags="|all-grain|mash|mashing|efficiency|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22742" CreationDate="2018-04-02T14:49:38.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's much easier to apply high efficiency methods in smaller volumes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest gain will be from being able to crush grains to near flour gauges. Allowing much more of the endosperm to have contact with mash water. Small batch BIAB would allow for physical stirring and manipulation to avoid small crush issues experienced in larger volumes. Also it's much easier to manually &quot;press&quot; grains when only dealing with a few pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you shouldn't expect higher efficiency if everything is done the same as in larger volumes. &lt;em&gt;Effeciency generally stays the same for a given method regardless of the volume scale.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-04-02T14:49:38.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22741" CreationDate="2018-04-02T20:39:00.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry not really an answer but wanted to say, wow! malting your own barley. That is definitely taking it to the next level for sure. It sounds like you have the passion and excitement to make this a long term affair. Welcome to the brewing family. I've made a few batches of beer that &quot;only it's brewer could palate&quot;, and thankfully only one or two that &quot;fertilized the garden&quot;. Keep it up and good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13721" LastActivityDate="2018-04-02T20:39:00.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2018-04-04T13:06:56.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stainless Steel Scrubbers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These make quick work of a labels and adhesives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soaking the bottles does make it a lot easier, but these scrubbers work even without soaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warm water with a little detergent (oxyclean) or even Dish soap if your doing a beer clean wash later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painted labels. Soak in starsan then use scrubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes these work so well, is it's like having a lot of razor blade edges on the bottle surface. So they cut the paper, foil, glue, paint right off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are easily degunked. Most pad scrubbers fill up with goo and you basically toss and get a new one. These are easily cleaned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't scratch glass or stainless steel. Unlike some scrubbing pads that use abrasives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZV24E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZV24E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T13:06:56.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14975" CreationDate="2018-04-04T15:58:29.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the keys is that recent DNA testing shows that many ale and lager strains are essentially the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-04-04T21:59:55.910" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T21:59:55.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22750" CreationDate="2018-04-04T16:24:47.303" Score="1" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some old tablets what say Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate and 'Sterilising Tablets' on them and am wondering if these when diluted will be suitable to clean vessel/equipment before brewing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16199" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T17:07:00.017" Title="Can I use Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate ('Sterilising Tablets') to clean vessel/equipment?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|cleaning|sterilization|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-04T16:37:40.780" Score="6" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been reading about &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/belgian-beer-youre-probably-doing-it-wrong/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;common mistakes&lt;/a&gt; with Belgian beers and it’s been noted that a “real” Belgian beer requires a step mash. The reason given for this is that apparently this is required for good head formation and retention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article also mentions that this will only work with under modified malts and not your typical well modified pilsner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that malting effectively does the same job as a protein rest step (gets the enzymes churning away) what is the benefit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put this another way, what’s the difference between a well modified malt and single temp vs an under modified malt and step mash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15849" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T20:51:03.523" Title="Step mash and under modified malts" Tags="|mash|malt|belgian|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22748" CreationDate="2018-04-04T16:56:39.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It can help head retention and other aspects of the beer with the right grain bill, but fully modified malts don't benifiet from it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically a acid / protein rest is applied to release the amino acids needed for yeast to produce good &lt;strong&gt;clove esters&lt;/strong&gt; for appropriate styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Moderately-modified malts benefit from a protein rest to break down any remnant large proteins into smaller proteins and amino acids as well as to further release the starches from the endosperm. Fully-modified malts have already made use of these enzymes and do not benefit from more time spent in the protein rest.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/how-the-mash-works/the-protein-rest-and-modification&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/how-the-mash-works/the-protein-rest-and-modification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the focus of the article you sighted, concerning step mashing, is to get the most fermentabilty out of your grains. It's not the most well written article I've seen, and somethings he claims would lead me to question his other reasonings. Mainly how he addresses yeast and Belgians. Yeast is a critical character to Belgian styles. For him to imply you can make a Belgian to style with Cali-ale or US-05 yeast is ignorant IMO. Though he recants that claim the yeast part reads like fiction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-04-04T20:51:03.523" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T20:51:03.523" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22747" CreationDate="2018-04-04T17:07:00.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Without knowing what the tablets were intended for I wouldn't use them.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While in high concentrations a Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate solution would work for sanitizing but would be a poor choice for brewing because of the residual chlorine odor. You really want your final wash / rinse to be with a no rinse sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate tablets could be very weak doses intended to sanitize drinking water. Which would be a poor sanitizer for cleaning equipment, as it's only strong enough to make water safe to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T17:07:00.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22755" CreationDate="2018-04-04T20:28:48.653" Score="3" ViewCount="2448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve used Safale F-2 and sometimes CBC-1 for bottle conditioning with good results. Doing so, flavour impact has been minimal. It also drops its dead clear once bottle fermentation is mostly done. It also goes beyond 10% ABV so residual sugar is also minimal for high gravity beers. Alcohol doesn’t kill the yeast easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any other general purpose yeast strains suitable for bottle conditioning?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there an easy way to measure F-2? I frequently do batches of 5L, 1.3 US gallon. Packaging says 2-7 g per 100L, which means a minuscule 0.2 g per batch for me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Among my group of brewer friends I’m alone in pitching fresh yeast for bottle conditioning. But it’s recommended when racking on a secondary fermentation vessel, right? Some of my stouts and Belgian ales spend 1-3 months on a secondary (and it sure feels like the yeast isn’t very active any more).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Elaborated the third question about long secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="15826" LastEditDate="2018-04-04T20:55:01.657" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T14:42:35.073" Title="Best yeast for bottle conditioning" Tags="|yeast|bottle-conditioning|ale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22751" CreationDate="2018-04-04T20:41:13.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any yeast you ferment the beer with is suitable for bottle conditioning. Pitching more yeast for conditioning is for when something went wrong. There should be plenty of the original yeast still in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, doing a yeast cell count is actually a simple process. But you do need some minor lab equipment. 400x microscope, dye (methylene blue), hemocytometer grids.&#xA;As far as measuring small weights, fractional gram weights your best bet is a jewlers scale most read in gram and troy and are good to 100th of a gram.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;See #1, the only reason to pitch fresh yeast is if the secondary fined out the beer to the point there is no yeast left.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It's worth noting that there is the practice of pitching killer yeast strains in commercial beers. This is usually just simple champagne yeast. Breweries do this to prevent thier unique strains from becoming public, and to create effervescent carbonation level in bottle conditioned beers.  Duval Belgians would be the best example of this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-04-08T14:42:35.073" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T14:42:35.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22615" CreationDate="2018-04-04T21:41:31.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought about using wine bottles, but then I discovered that you can put a cap onto champagne bottles using a 29mm cap. However, you will need a capper that allows you to swap the bell to 29mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16201" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T21:41:31.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22757" CreationDate="2018-04-05T04:03:59.873" Score="5" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've harvested some yeast from a commercial bottle (Maine Beer Company's Mo Pale Ale) and stepped it up to a 1L size. I'll be making a pale ale at ~1.055 OG and everything I read indicates I'll want roughly 180-200 billion cells and that about 1L of starter should get me there. But that's 1L of starter built from standard starting points (like liquid vial) so I don't really know if my 1L starter is remotely in the right ballpark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I've done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added slurry from one beer to 250ml starter wort (25g DME, 250g water)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 days: Observed thin layer of bubbles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 days: Doubled the starter (added another 250ml, total 500ml)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.5 days: Observed very nice looking krausen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4.5 days (36 hrs since last feeding): Doubled the starter (added 500ml, total 1L)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is 24 hours after the final feeding to refrigerate it for 2-3 days until I brew, decant most of the liquid, and pitch the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound like I will reasonably hit my ballpark for cell counts? Should I look for any particular volume of settled-out yeast to validate approximate cell counts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; I doubled again to a total of 2L of starter wort. After another day I refrigerated it 2 days before brewing and I poured out most of the liquid. I brewed a pale ale and from what I can tell fermentation was strong. I ended up with 5.9% ABV, 81% attenuation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8140" LastEditorUserId="8140" LastEditDate="2018-04-15T19:27:21.743" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T19:27:21.743" Title="Ballpark yeast count of starter from harvested commercial yeast" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22751" CreationDate="2018-04-05T08:42:25.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In theory all strains could be used. One thing to watch out for is the attenuation level of the yeast, you don't want the new yeast to ferment more sugars than its primary predecessor. On top of the priming sugars, this can mean gushers/bombs etc. Especially Belgians where the carbonation is already high. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Never used the F-2 (Thanks for notifying! Actually looks like a very good bottle yeast) but I use the same yeast as primary. 0.2g is next to nothing, I don't think it hurt if you pich a bit more. Or increase your batches.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I do think in some cases it is good to pitch new yeast. Like you mentioned, with high gravity beers and long secondary the yeast could be in such roughed up state it is not healthy enough to fully ferment the priming sugars or it takes forever to carbonate... Been there, done that, I'm not taking the risk again. For me, a OG bigger than ~1.080 means pitching fresh yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify, normally it is not necessary to repitch, but for high OG beers and long secondary there is - in my experience - a chance it does not carbonate or it takes a long time. If you already taken the extra steps to make this heavy beer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastEditorUserId="15915" LastEditDate="2018-04-05T08:52:23.023" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T08:52:23.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22754" CreationDate="2018-04-05T09:25:07.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to yeast pitch calculators, the start amount of yeast is not that important. Adding the wort in steps helps to cultivate the yeast healthy. My guess it will be fine but you can always check how many ml of slurry you have after refrigeration and determine the amount of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T09:25:07.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22754" CreationDate="2018-04-05T12:24:05.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sounds about right&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most yeast manufacturers equate 35-50ml of clean yeast slurry to 100-200 billion cell count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Only way to really know for sure is to do a cell count.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Insurance in volume:&lt;/strong&gt; I would repeat your step starter process and make a second 1000ml starter, using a few eye droppers worth of the new yeast you grew. Just to make sure I have enough, and possibly to set aside and store the culture for future use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decant your starters to see how much slurry you get. If you get 35-50ml yeast this would be the equiviant to pitching a single commercial wet pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would shoot for 100ml+ for a OG of 1.055&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T12:24:05.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22066" CreationDate="2018-04-05T19:01:02.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday the pH was 3.7. I drank a little and realized I made vinegar! The cheesy smell is gone, and the vinegar taste is overwhelming. There must have been too much exposure to oxygen. Oh well. Now the question is whether to keep it for cooking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12524" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T19:01:02.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-05T21:22:10.993" Score="3" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to estimate the post-boil specific gravity given only a pre boil gravity reading, plus volume measurements, while also accounting for a invert sugar syrup addition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say the facts were as follows: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7.59 gallons at hot break&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.062 specific gravity at hot break&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.35 gallons&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Belgian candi syrup added&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6.70 gallons at flame out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit / Addition:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2.5 pounds of table sugar that was used to make the candi syrup is said to have 46 ppg (points per pound per gallon), so supplied 115 points.  The reason for calling out this fact is that this eliminates the need to have a measure on the candi syrup directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Footnotes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1. An approximation.  Made from exactly 2.5 lb granulated cane sugar, but don't know the conversion to volume. Brewing software adds 0.013 to specific gravity when added.  Edit / Addition: the candi syrup turned out to be about 15% water.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2018-04-08T03:02:20.443" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T22:59:07.760" Title="Estimating OG when only pre-boil gravity available" Tags="|specific-gravity|sugar|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22759" CreationDate="2018-04-05T23:07:29.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Calculation of post-boil gravity, should no additions be done, is preboil_gravity*preboil_volume/postboil_volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water volume addition from the candi syrup is negligible, so just add that 0.013 gravity points to the calculated post-boil gravity, and you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother trying anything more precise than this estimate, since measuring with hydrometer already has some error in it (due to temperature, viewing angle, bubbles etc). With variations in fermentation process, in the end, unless you're far out of the ballpark (like, &gt;0.01), no one will likely notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T23:07:29.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22762" CreationDate="2018-04-06T11:26:36.703" Score="5" ViewCount="7008" Body="&lt;p&gt;What difference to the mash and ultimately the end product will &lt;em&gt;Flaked Oats&lt;/em&gt; vs &lt;em&gt;Malted Flaked Oats&lt;/em&gt; make?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have run a recipe Nut Brown Ale using Malted Flaked Oats several times and recently reordered the same materials again. However, I ordered Unmalted Flaked Oats by mistake. With the remains of the malted oats I had left over about 30% of the oats are from the new unmalted oats. Flaked oats are used to impart the smoothness and better mouthfeel so it begs the question as to which is better for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are Malted Flaked Oats better to use than Unmalted Flaked Oats?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are sold as being used to improve smoothness and body/texture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T13:22:42.127" Title="Malted vs unmalted flaked oats" Tags="|malt|oats|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22761" CreationDate="2018-04-06T13:13:41.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's start with the difference of malted and unmalted and what flaked is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Malted&lt;/strong&gt; is the process to allow a seed to begin germination then stopped when the seed has a specific amount of enzymes, sugars and starches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unmalted&lt;/strong&gt;  In the state of a raw dried seed there are no enzymes or sugar, just starches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flaked, Rolled&lt;/strong&gt; This process runs grain between two hot rollers to dry and flatten the grain exposing endosperm. The hot process denatures enzymes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the only difference between malted and unmalted flaked grains is the sugar starch ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using oats as an adjuct for mouth feel, body and head. &lt;strong&gt;Really what your going for are those starches and so it makes little difference in malted or unmalted.&lt;/strong&gt; It really depends on how they are added in the brew process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using as a significant part of your fermentables. The level of malting or modification determines if you need to do a cereal mash or not, to unlock (gelatinize) the starches. So mash enzymes can convert them to sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you can get the same results with both malted and unmalted with different brewing methods.&#xA; For examples: You can get the starches from both unmalted and malted oats by steeping them post mash. &#xA;You can also get both to produce fermentables by adding a cereal mash step for unmalted / under modified oats. Using malted or highly modified oats (instant oats) these can skip the cereal mash. The level of the malting / modification determines how much fermentables or starches will come out of the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-04-06T13:22:42.127" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T13:22:42.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-06T13:46:28.070" Score="1" ViewCount="716" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewers can make their own invert syrup (Belgian candi syrup) by heating regular granulated table sugar, water, and a little acid.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/invert-syrups-making-simple-sugars-complex-beers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/invert-syrups-making-simple-sugars-complex-beers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process involves heating the syrup well above the boiling point of water, so there is no separate water present in the finished product, but hydrolysis occurs, so the hydrogen and oxygen molecules are taken up by the sugar molecules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chemical reaction is : &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://wikimedia.org/api/rest_v1/media/math/render/svg/a920c3a42036833ec34016db3b8294e983ac1fd9&quot; alt=&quot;hydrolysis of sugar chemical formula&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I start with one unit, say one pound, of table sugar, how many pounds of syrup will I get?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2018-04-06T13:55:20.860" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T19:48:21.093" Title="What is the table sugar to invert syrup yield, in mass?" Tags="|specific-gravity|adjuncts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22763" CreationDate="2018-04-06T13:51:41.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends completely on how much water is left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The total weight will be the sum of all weights less water evaporation (boil off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T13:51:41.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22763" CreationDate="2018-04-06T14:02:43.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you would obtain 1.05 times the weight of your sugar, because for 342 g of sucrose you would need 18 g of water. This is based upon the molar masses of both components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would of course almost be a physical impossibility, because that would mean that the contents are probably not liquid any more, and you would not be able to dissolve 342g of sugar into 18g of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To minimise the amount of water, use 100 mL of water (3 oz.?) per 250g (about half a pound) of sugar. First dissolve all the sugar at a temperature of 80° C (176°F), only then start to increase the temperature to the boiling point. Around 104 or 108° C (220°F) you will notice that the temperature does not increase for a time. I think that this is because water is evaporating from the mixture. So, the amount of water diminishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last time I made invert sugar, with the above amounts, I think I got less than, or around 300 g invert syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T14:02:43.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22759" CreationDate="2018-04-06T14:25:39.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have an unknown in this equation. Gravity potential of the syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;- 7.59 gallons at hot break&#xA;- 1.062 specific gravity at hot break&#xA;- 0.35 gallons Belgian candi syrup added&#xA;- 6.70 gallons at flame out&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the water sugar ratio of the syrup &quot;estimates&quot; will have a wide range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen &quot;syrups&quot; as thick as honey, while others are as light as apple juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; If 6.7gal was total ending brew volume and 2.5 lb dry weight of sugar was used to make the syrup. Then you do have everything to calculate it.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;OG 1.088&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Method using basic brew calculator.&#xA;Set efficiency to 100% Make a recipe of 7.59 boil volume add any adjunct to get OG to 1.062. Then add the 2.5lb of sugar with a gravity value of. 1.046.&#xA;Set final volume to 6.7 gal.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-04-12T22:59:07.760" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T22:59:07.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22768" CreationDate="2018-04-07T06:14:52.757" Score="2" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would I want to over carbonate? Simple I’m trying to debug my under carbonated batches. So far I’ve had 4 batches all primed with coopers carbonation tabs and while they have all had some bubbles it’s not nearly the amount I’m looking for. I’ve deliberately added more than i should to see if I can increase the levels but it seems to top out at say porter level carbonation. Not the 3x CO2 I want in a Belgian. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I’m looking to try and go too far and create some bottle bombs. At least if I can hit the top end I can work backwards in my system. Can someone give me a surefire way to do this with a 7% Belgian Blonde?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m conditioning at between 20-22 degrees C and using both caps and swing lids. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15849" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T00:58:05.957" Title="How to over carbonate?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22767" CreationDate="2018-04-07T14:23:05.100" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottle bombs are usually beers that are about 10 gravity points above terminal gravity for standard 12oz bottles, then hit TG in the bottles.  So 1.020 SG when 1.010 is TG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For typical normal carbonation, 3-4 points above TG. Most 5 gallon batches call for about 4oz of monosaccaride priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Rather than trying to make bombs and risk a mess and possible injury. Try to apply best practices for bottle conditioning.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;rack to a bottling vessel from fermentor, this allows you to get mostly fined beer and then able to control how much trub you bring in. In 5 gallons I would intentionally bring in about 100m l of the yeast trub and mix.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use a powdered monosaccaride priming sugar (corn sugar), mix well in your bottling vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;repitch fresh yeast at bottling, if there was extreme fining or extended time in fermentation that would significantly reduce yeast health.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;make sure your caps are sealing well. Cappers fatigue after a while and don't crimp very tight. Test by seeing if you can spin a cap on a capped bottle without tearing flesh on your hand. They shouldn't turn even by the strongest of us. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;swing cap seals, these too can wear out or cause gas off from cracks or chemical damage. Some sanitizers can degrade the seal and cause it to become pourus allowing small molecule gasses to escape. When this happens they can even function like a regulator and only leak at certian a psi. So they still maintain some pressure but not as much as they should.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wet the caps. Bottle caps should be pulled from submerged in a sanitizer withat least 90% water, or sprayed before going on the bottle. O2 absorbing caps require water to activate and it changes the media to make a good seal. Inverting bottles capped with dry caps doesn't wet the sealing area, so it's not enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-04-07T16:28:26.343" LastActivityDate="2018-04-07T16:28:26.343" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-07T15:27:54.767" Score="1" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been making regular batches of pomegranate wine. The latest batch fermented faster than usual due to ambient heat increase. However the result has a salty taste. What would be the cause of that and how could I relive or mask that taste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3813" LastActivityDate="2018-04-07T16:15:16.473" Title="Why does my wine taste salty?" Tags="|fermentation|taste|aftertaste|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22769" CreationDate="2018-04-07T16:15:16.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is usually from overdose of campden tablets / potassium metabisulfite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the only practical solution is dilution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-04-07T16:15:16.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22763" CreationDate="2018-04-08T02:55:43.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftybaking.com/howto/candy-sugar-syrup-temperature-chart&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;, sugar heated to the lowest temperature in the Homebrewer's Association article (236°F) will result in a syrup with a &lt;strong&gt;15% water content&lt;/strong&gt;.  The water content drops to 10% if the temperature gets around 250°F and drops to 1% if the temperature gets to 300°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a sanity check, &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/brewing-with-sugar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; says that invert syrup gives 36 ppg (points per pound per gallon), whereas rock sugar gives 45 ppg, suggesting that there is &lt;strong&gt;20% water content&lt;/strong&gt; in the syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So one pound of granulated sugar, heated to 236°F should yield 1.18 to 1.25 pounds of invert syrup and should be in the range of 36 to 39 ppg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;&lt;em&gt;This answer is being appended, about a year later.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Summary&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;strong&gt;experiment was performed&lt;/strong&gt; with a 4 pound bag of table sugar.  Water was not measured (no way to measure evaporation), but the weight of the crystal sugar and the resulting syrup were measured. The result was that the invert syrup provides &lt;em&gt;36 gravity points per pound per gallon&lt;/em&gt;. This is agreement with the link above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Process&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;4 pound&quot; bag of sugar contained 1803g net weight.  After bringing water and sugar to 237 degrees F, I measured the weight of the finished product, plus the residue on the equipment and it came to 2331g.  The total in the jars was 2314g and the volume was 1638ml, so the density of the syrup was 1.412g/ml.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Result&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This experiment indicates that one pound of granulated sugar will yield 1.29 pounds of invert syrup if the syrup is heated to 237F.  The resulting density will be about 1.41g/ml.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/brewing-with-sugar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;table sugar is 46 ppg&lt;/a&gt;, this would mean that &lt;strong&gt;the syrup made by this process would be 36 ppg&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2019-04-03T19:48:21.093" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T19:48:21.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22767" CreationDate="2018-04-10T00:58:05.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any  beer over 6 per cent will not carbonate well. Use 3.5 to 4 oz. corn sugar to bottle after 2 weeks fermentation. Your first pitch yeast will still be good enough without pitching new stuff. Also include a half pound of carapils malt in your recipe. Dextrin malts help with body and head retention. I also like adding some white wheat for the same effect, but wheat will add flavor. Cheers! Brewdog333&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15567" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T00:58:05.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2018-04-10T01:03:45.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Crushtag or Grogtag custom bottle caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15567" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T17:42:40.603" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T17:42:40.603" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-04-10T01:03:45.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22776" CreationDate="2018-04-10T04:37:41.563" Score="4" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 19 liter carboy, and put a 18 liter wort. 10 hours later I woke up and noticed carboy overflow krausen all over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am concerned whether air lock will clogged down and explode. I will not have a hose for another 6-7 hours, so blow-off tube is not an answer. I cleaned the air lock a few times, and it keeps overflowing, I see krausen in the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering what could be a solution? I am either thinking removing air lock completely for next 10 hours, or siphoning some of the wort to give some head space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14496" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T01:22:15.687" Title="Carboy keep overflowing" Tags="|fermentation|carboy|krausen|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22774" CreationDate="2018-04-10T11:30:43.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could do either of your suggestions, or if your carboy fits in a bucket, just let it overflow through the airlock until the blowoff tube arrives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T11:30:43.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22774" CreationDate="2018-04-10T12:51:52.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Few tricks for temporary fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swirling every so often can get kausen to drop back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nitrile glove with a pin hole in a finger will work for a DYI air relief cover, should limit the mess. Latex will work too but not recommended due to their odor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T12:58:15.577" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T12:58:15.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2018-04-10T12:58:49.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As base material for the labels, I use gummed paper in A4 (or almost Letter) size. I do not want to mess with milk or glue sticks. Been there, done that, glue sticks take too much time, and the result even got mouldy in my garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gummed paper comes of easily with a little soak, but not due to condensation of water on the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I design my label in LibreOffice/OpenOffice, and print only using black ink. That is very waterproof. To conserve ink, I mostly use outline fonts for large characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T12:58:49.147" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-04-10T12:58:49.147" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22774" CreationDate="2018-04-10T19:13:35.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/fermcap-s-1-oz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FermCap&lt;/a&gt;?  It will reduce the Krausen without hurting the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T19:13:35.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22642" CreationDate="2018-04-11T12:46:36.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;The aim is for a sugar free, alcohol free probiotic drink&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer: No&lt;/strong&gt; *(if using natural whey, sugar, fermentation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Natural Whey is usually about 5% sugar (lactose) while not fermentable it is stil a sugar metabolized by humans. &#xA;Sour whey has less but still contains some lactos. 100% sugar free whey can be sourced but is heavily processed, and may conflict with the ideal of a natural healthy drink.&#xA;(Lactase can be used to break lactose down into fermentable sugars)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using whey as a base without processing will have sugar.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coconut / Palm Sugar&#xA;The major component of coconut sugar is sucrose (70–79%), glucose, and fructose (3–9% each).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically just a blend of table sugar (sucrose). Corn sugar (dextrose/glucose) and Fruit sugar (fructose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sucrose is molecule is 1 glucose molecule and 1 fructose molecule bound.  This bond is broken in fermentation and human digestion to produce fructose and glucose for direct absorption by yeast and human cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short coconut / palm sugar is nothing special.&lt;/strong&gt; Just slightly faster to ferment and digest because a portion of it is already in monosaccaride form. It is completely fermentable, &lt;em&gt;(yeast is able to convert all of the sugars mass into alcohol and cO2.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rapadura is unprocessed cane sugar, not coconut sugar.&lt;/strong&gt; Sucrose is the sugar type (see above). But because it is unproccessed it does contain mineral nutrients that aids fermentation. Calcium, magnesium, iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is possible&lt;/strong&gt; Just not easy. You can make a probiotic drink that's alcohol, sugar free. Most will use fermentation to refine nutrients and make the drink carbonated, the but then you have alcohol. Alcohol can be boiled off, but you lose carbonation and denature proteins. However with the right equipment alcohol can be boiled out without heat by applying vaccum, the drink can then be force carbonated with the result of a probiotic sugar and alcohol free carbonated drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-04-11T13:09:26.547" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T13:09:26.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="162" CreationDate="2018-04-11T13:02:27.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheat beers (hefeweizen/wit) are considered to be particularly good for beginners for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're expected to have fairly high ester and phenol profiles, which can&#xA;mask other undesirable flavours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They can tolerate a fairly wide range of fermentation temperatures,&#xA;and the higher end of the range gives more of the banana/bubble gum&#xA;flavours as above. This makes them ideal for brewing in an apartment&#xA;which will be &gt;20c the whole time, and/or if you don't have a way to&#xA;accurately control (especially lower) the temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are highly carbonated and perfectly suited to bottle&#xA;carbonation, which is generally convenient for a beginner (no&#xA;gas/kegs required).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are not expected to clear (for the yeast to flocculate and fall&#xA;out of suspension) before drinking, and they don't require long&#xA;conditioning for any other flavour-related reasons, so can be drunk&#xA;practically as soon as carbonation is complete (~2 weeks).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like the style then these are great beers to make! I am a beginner, and have made a couple of these from all grain recipes, both times with satisfying results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T13:02:27.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22774" CreationDate="2018-04-12T01:22:15.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could remove the cap and tape a piece of foil or plastic wrap partially over the opening. I’ve done this with Saisons to prevent back pressure stalling fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T01:22:15.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22793" CreationDate="2018-04-12T02:37:59.750" Score="2" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing a batch using the basic Mr. beer brew kit. Carbonation usually takes 10-14 days. However, this time the bottles are hard as a rock within 3 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? Shall I open the bottles to let the extra carbon dioxide out and wait for entire 2 weeks or is it ok to start freezing the bottles now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16226" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T10:42:09.657" Title="Carbonation happening too soon?" Tags="|carbonation|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-12T05:21:23.777" Score="2" ViewCount="530" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question did anyone tried to mix Nottingham Ale yeast and Windsor ?&#xA;What are the results if you have such an experience?I want to use one pack of each in my NEIPA.I don’t have any other yeast around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15270" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T01:46:55.833" Title="Mixing dry yeast for NEIPA" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22849" CreationDate="2018-04-12T13:46:52.103" Score="7" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;As some of you may be aware I have a strange obsession with old beers styles and trying to recreate historical styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next idea is to try and create the style Mum. &amp;quot;This is a style originally from Germany but popular in Britain from 1660 to early 19th Century.&amp;quot;.[1]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any sources for this, any contemporary accounts or even some old recipes for this beer style. So, far I have a one line metion on wikipedia and a link from there shared here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[ 1. http://zythophile.co.uk/2012/05/22/endangered-beers/ ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;==== EDIT ====&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found a couple of other interesting links I need to properly investigate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one has a good historical look at the style:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://witteklavervier.nl/en/history/mum&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://witteklavervier.nl/en/history/mum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This contains some guide to a recipe, I think given the bad translation and my terrible schoolboy German:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kruenitz1.uni-trier.de/cgi-bin/getKRArticles.tcl?tid=005_15+opt=1-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.kruenitz1.uni-trier.de/cgi-bin/getKRArticles.tcl?tid=005_15+opt=1-0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB. I do not mind if the sources are in English, German or Dutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T14:07:33.973" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T14:07:33.973" Title="Mum ale recipes/references/sources?" Tags="|recipe|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22790" CreationDate="2018-04-12T20:11:40.500" Score="6" ViewCount="6421" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen cold crashing presented as a means of clearing beer by knocking much of the yeast out of suspension.  But it seems to be a technique that's used by brewers who keg.  &lt;strong&gt;Is there still enough yeast in suspension after cold crashing to carb beer in bottles?&lt;/strong&gt;  My thought was to bring the bottles back to room temp and then give them whatever time they need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Context: I don't care at all about clarity.  To me, murky beer just means it was made with love.  What I would like to do is &lt;em&gt;decrease&lt;/em&gt; the amount of yeasty sediment in my bottles (&quot;Careful - don't pour out the crud in the bottom!&quot;)  Last summer, I happily packed some brew on a river trip, and they all got so shaken up that they just tasted like yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically leave my beers in primary for 3 weeks or more, and then rack to a secondary vessel just before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastActivityDate="2018-04-25T21:31:18.973" Title="Can I cold crash if I'll be bottle-conditioning?" Tags="|yeast|beer|beginner|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22785" CreationDate="2018-04-12T22:32:42.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nobody likes unless it's a Brett-conditioned beer, in which case you pour the yeast sediment into a separate shot glass. Yes there is still enough yeast to bottle beer even after a cold-crush. You can even pair cold-crushing with gelatin. Having said that, I've never seen a bottle-conditioned beer without any sedidement at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T22:32:42.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18753" CreationDate="2018-04-12T23:57:21.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a 2 gallon batch of an American Wheat couple of months back with gelatin. Cold crashed for a week then added the gelatin put back in the fridge for another week, transferred to a keg chilled and carbonated for another week... came out beautiful and tasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15899" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T23:57:21.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22794" CreationDate="2018-04-13T03:51:31.753" Score="3" ViewCount="1287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently fermented Kedem brand grape juice (which contains potassium metabisulfite) by only adding rouge red star yeast (and slapping on airlock and leaving it on my kitchen counter). I recently got into a discussion if there is any way to ferment it without adding any ingredients at all - stirring, refrigerating, leaving it outdoors, adding an airlock etc. would be allowed (this may have some applications to an esoteric aspect of Jewish law). Does anyone know if its possible or will the wine spoil first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16227" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T20:57:35.110" Title="Fermenting grape juice with Potassium Metabisulfite without adding anything" Tags="|fermentation|wine|potassium-meta-bisulfite|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22785" CreationDate="2018-04-13T09:32:14.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you have cold crashed there will still be enough yeast to carb up your beer, given enough time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest leaving your beers in primary for your usual amount of time, but racking to secondary and leaving for a couple of days before you bottle, to allow any sediment kicked up in transfer to settle out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are bottling with a few grams of sugar per bottle and getting anything more than a thin layer of yeast on the bottom of the bottle, you should let the secondary settle a little longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually bottle my ales to achieve 2-2.2 volumes of CO2, which works out nicely at 5g/liter for priming. This amount has never left anything other than a fine layer of yeast on the bottom of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T09:32:14.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22788" CreationDate="2018-04-13T09:44:34.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible it could work, but you have to be pretty lucky. The chance of getting some local acetobacter or wild yeast that could survive and spoil the wine would be high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a bunch of grapes and used them to prime your grape juice, that could be a better way than just stirring outside, as the yeasts on the grape skins are what was the fermentor historically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.winesandvines.com/features/article/168028/Spontaneous-Fermentations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.winesandvines.com/features/article/168028/Spontaneous-Fermentations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T09:44:34.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22783" CreationDate="2018-04-13T10:30:40.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not mixed those 2 particular yeasts but I have blended yeasts for previous brews. You basically get 50% of one's charchter and 50% of the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one has a low abv tolerance/attenuation and the other higher then you should use the higher value to calculate the final ABV, and the body you would expect to be left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example, 50/50 S-04/US-05:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get less ester falvour that you would get from 100% S-04.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get the same thinner crisper body you would expect from US05.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get the final ABV expected from US05.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T10:30:40.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22782" CreationDate="2018-04-13T10:42:09.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The speed at which your brew carbonates is dependant on a number of factors: temprerature, yeast cell count, residual CO2, residual sugar. Sometimes your beer can carb up this quickly especially if it is warm in your house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact it has carbed up so quickly suggests that either you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carried a lot of yeast over into your bottles, which will chew through the sugar more quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the brew had not reached FG, and had a lot of residual sugar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect 1 if you did not leave it long enough to settle, or knocked the FV during racking/bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did not take a gravity reading before bottling then 2 is a posibility, in which case letting a little gas out could save you some bottles popping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least it sounds like you are bottling in plastic, which saves you the danger of glass bottle bombs, which are terribly dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T10:42:09.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22788" CreationDate="2018-04-13T14:48:26.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chances of this working are about zero. It will eventually ferment, but the results will probably be bad. If you want to get yeast into the grape juice in a natural way, you can put a piece of fruit or berry into the grape juice. The best thing is to find some Organic grapes at your local grocery. I say Organic because there will be a better chance they have more robust yeast colonies on the skins than non organic. The &quot;bloom&quot; on the skins of the grapes is made up of many different yeasts and bacteria, but usually the best for making wine will survive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would put the grapes, minus the stems, in a blender for a little bit and then dump the whole mess into your grape juice. You should see fermentation within 24 hours. When the fermentation is done, you'll need to drink it quickly unless you put more sulfites in the &quot;wine&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you won't/can't put some fruit or grapes in there. Put it all in a big clean bucket outside on a nice sunny day with little or no wind. Preferably near some flowers or trees (you want the pollen to fall in there). Pollen contains a lot of yeast. You only need it outside for an hour or so. Then put it in a carboy or just cover and let it try and ferment. It might or might not work but this is how they make spontaneously fermented beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, all the Metabisulfite in the juice will be blown off in the fermentation process so you will need more to keep it preserved afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-04-13T20:57:35.110" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T20:57:35.110" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-13T17:29:09.850" Score="3" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipe/beer-recipe-of-the-week-dark-night-tangerine-porter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recipe for a porter&lt;/a&gt; that has the following mash schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 lb (1.8 kg)  Munich malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 lb (1.4 kg)  Lager malt (US 6-row if possible)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 lb (.9 kg)   Flaked wheat (unmalted soft red wheat flakes if possible)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 lb (.45 kg)  Flaked oats&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.75 lb (340 g) Cara Munich malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.5 lb (227 g)  Black Patent malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.25 lb (113 g) Special B malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.25 lb (113 g) Rice hulls  (added to the mash)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix the flaked oats and flaked wheat with 1 lb of lager malt and mash in for 15 minutes at 150° F (65.5° C), then raise to a boil and maintain for 10 minutes. Have the other grains at protein rest, and raise to mash at 154° F (68° C) when you add the boiling unmalted grain to the main mash. Continue for 30-40 minutes, then mash out at 170° F (77° F), and maintain at least 165° F (74° C) during spargeing to keep the starch liquefied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The directions seem clear, but I don't understand the purpose. What is going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14166" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T19:17:46.840" Title="Odd mash schedule" Tags="|all-grain|mash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1282" CreationDate="2018-04-13T17:31:03.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far I've made two brown-chili batches and here's what I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually made a chili concentrate by having hot chili flakes boil in raw alcohol (100% ethanol) for about 30-45 minutes, because Capsaicin is soluble in alcohol (and oil, but oil is not really useful in this case) and this allows you to extract more hotness ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I had a (very) strong concentrate, I mixed it with the brew in order to obtain the wanted chili taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I liked this process because it really gives you a lot of control over how much Capsaicin you want, and I didn't see much changes after fermentation (even 6 months in). So it's pretty much WYTIWYG (What You Taste Is What You Get) :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16231" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T17:31:03.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22797" CreationDate="2018-04-13T19:08:18.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There really is no point to boiling the flaked grains. Really only needed for unmalted whole grains, to gelatinize the starches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some rolled / flaked can benifiet from a boil but usually the hot rolling process it enough to have them ready for mashing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me It looks to have been an adapted from a decoction mash schedule where the boiled flaked grains was added to raise mash temp as a step. But somehow got lost as to the why in revisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it says to &quot;keep starch liquefied&quot;... At 154 for 30-40 minutes, those starches would easily convert so there wouldn't be starches. If residual starch is the goal should be added as much higher temp, or simply steeped in the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: After reading the recipe link.  Looks like they are going for malliard reaction of the Flaked grains, getting a mini mash with DP grains then boiled. Malliard notes are usually just gained from specialty grains, but decoction mashes often get malliard notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-04-13T19:17:46.840" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T19:17:46.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-13T19:39:24.227" Score="2" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for a Medusa rhizome or a Canadian Red Vine rhizome. Any help would much appreciated! Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16233" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T15:35:47.560" Title="Looking for a specific hop rhizome" Tags="|hops|growing-hops|rhizome|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-14T16:08:04.120" Score="4" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a gingerbug  many times in the past and been successful, the longest of which I kept alive for over a year until another project took over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My issue this time is that after bottling my drinks I find the bottles become as tight as a drum in two days but when it comes to serving the drinks there really isn't much fizz, the bubbles are tiny and by the time I open the bottle for a second time the drink is almost flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen many recipes that recommend burping the bottles for a couple of days but won't that prevent the drink becoming fizzier? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I've seen one post that says that the best indicator that it's ready is the presence of bubbles at the top of the bottle, is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16198" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-04-16T10:12:11.067" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T10:14:36.803" Title="Gingerbug issues" Tags="|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22904" CreationDate="2018-04-15T13:01:35.903" Score="4" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve all the parts to make counter pressure bottle filler (CPBF) except a 8mm outside diameter tube which will be in contact with the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have dip tubes in my Cornelius kegs, but before cutting one of those to size (and ordering a replacement for £10) is there a cheaper food safe alternative?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the lip on the dip tube makes it more expensive than it needs to be for my purpose, it’s not necessary for the CPBF and it’s too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16192" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T22:00:52.580" Title="What is the cheapest food safe metal tube I can use for a counter pressure bottle filler?" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22803" CreationDate="2018-04-15T14:55:23.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many counter pressure fillers don't have dip tubes that fill from the bottom of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the counter pressure system the bottle only has slightly less pressure so there is very little foaming from splashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T14:55:23.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18617" CreationDate="2018-04-15T16:44:01.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;for brewing purposes you should be just fine with 304 stainless steel.  It's what most breweries use for their production purposes.  316 is more expensive due to the addition of molybdenum which helps prevent corrosion from caustic chemicals, acids, or highly concentrated saline.  None of which should be involved with your brew process, hopefully.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can learn more if you're interested from this explainer video by Sanitary Fittings:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://sanitaryfittings.us/choosing-304-316-stainless-steel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://sanitaryfittings.us/choosing-304-316-stainless-steel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16235" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T16:44:01.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12714" CreationDate="2018-04-15T16:51:16.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your local brewery store may have a small selection of fittings, but your best bet for selection and pricing is going to be online.  I manage &lt;a href=&quot;https://sanitaryfittings.us/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sanitary Fittings&lt;/a&gt; where we sell a wide variety of fittings for home and commercial brewers alike.  If you need any help please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16235" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T16:51:16.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6099" CreationDate="2018-04-15T17:01:29.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sell directly to homebrewers and commercial brewers alike.  You can find most of the quick disconnect, tri-clamp fittings online here:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://sanitaryfittings.us/brewery-fittings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://sanitaryfittings.us/brewery-fittings&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a homebrewer myself and like to help out others dedicated to the craft.  You can save 10% off your first order with us by using coupon code &lt;strong&gt;&quot;brewer10&quot;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if I can be of any assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16235" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T17:01:29.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22800" CreationDate="2018-04-16T07:57:20.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Freshops stocks the Canadian Red Vine &lt;a href=&quot;https://freshops.com/shop/rhizomes/canadian-redvine-rhizomes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://freshops.com/shop/rhizomes/canadian-redvine-rhizomes/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Medusa, on the other hand, is not as far as I know commercially available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T07:57:20.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22802" CreationDate="2018-04-16T10:14:36.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess would be you have insufficient residual sugar when you are bottling. They pressurize up because you have a healthy active fermentation but you do not have sufficient residual sugar to fully carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I advise, either: bottling a day earlier, or adding a teaspoonful of sugar to the bottle when bottling up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T10:14:36.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5048" CreationDate="2018-04-16T18:25:59.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Star San will not kill wild yeast.  I rotate the use of StarSan and iodophor, since iodophor kills wild yeast.  Here's the reply I got from a chemist when I asked about it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broad-spectrum Germicides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term “Broad Spectrum” when applied to a sanitizer means that it will attack a wide variety of different types of microorganisms, including gram-positive bacteria (Listeria and Staphylococcus), gram negative bacteria (E. coli and Salmonella), viruses, fungi (both yeasts and molds), as well as many parasites. Broad-spectrum germicides act on microbial membranes, cellular enzymes, DNA, and protein. Iodine-based sanitizers have been used as antimicrobial agents since the 1800s and have a broad spectrum of activity They are a powerful sanitizer in strong acidic aqueous solutions. They are generally used at 12.5 to 25 ppm available iodine, and can cause staining on some surfaces, especially plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acid-anionic sanitizers are surface-active sanitizers, but negatively charged. Formulations include inorganic and organic acids plus a surfactant. Carboxylic acids (fatty acids) are some times incorporated as well. They are unaffected by hard water or organic soils. The dual function of acid is that it can be used for rinsing and sanitizing in one step. These sanitizers must be used at low pH. Activity above pH 3.5–4.0 is minimal. Acidity, detergency, stability, and noncorrosiveness makes them highly effective. Acid-anionic sanitizers are broad spectrum against bacteria and viruses, but not very effective against yeasts and molds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iodophors are considered broad spectrum anti microbial vs. Star San being a being anti bacterial.  The actual label for Star San lists what it is registered to kill: E Coli and Staph A – the minimum baseline for allowing a claim of being a sanitizer with the EPA.  Iodophor has proven effectiveness against not only gram positive and negative bacteria, but yeast, mold, fungi and viruses and is also a sporicidal agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T18:25:59.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12004" CreationDate="2018-04-17T22:28:30.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to add here that Brendan W indicates adding enzymes will lighten the body of the beer, but not add any more alcohol production.  This is not always correct.  Adding an enzyme will convert long-chained carbohydrates into more fermentable shorter sugars that the yeast can digest.  In the absence of yeast, this would not change the body of your beer perceptibly, and if anything would have the potential to increase sweetness at a minuscule scale.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is yeast present, the newly produced shorter sugars are now available for digestion.  The byproduct of yeast + sugar = CO2 + alcohol (and lots of other fun by-products - and since this yeast is probably stressed there is going to be a higher amount of them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real question here was how to safely add the enzyme.  Since we can't denature it at heat, the key is probably to transfer a tablet as quickly as possible into the fermenter with a sanitized towel/tongs (and assume the interior of the beano bottle is sanitary from the factory).  If you've had fermentation running already the environment will be low in O2 &amp;amp; high in alcohol, so not much will have a chance of taking off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16242" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-04-18T13:52:06.903" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T13:52:06.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22814" CreationDate="2018-04-18T23:54:01.543" Score="4" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each of my last four batches has stalled well above FG. The first two restarted after bottling and caused bottle bombs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last batch was a kolsch with OG 1.047. Wyeast 2565. Stalled at 1.024 for three weeks, even after I raised the temperature to 70F. I pitched a new pack of the same yeast, and 10 days later it was down to 1.004.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This batch is an IPA. 8lb 2-row, 1/2lb Munich, 1/2lb C40. Mashed at 154. OG was 1.072. It was only 2.75 gallons, so I pitched a single pack of Wyeast 1056 at 66F. It blew off about 1 cup in the first two days, then the yeast settled out. After a week it was at 1.020, so I raised the temp to 70F. Four days later it's still at 1.020.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never had this problem in my first 10 batches. Why might it be happening now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15424" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T03:00:18.473" Title="Why does my fermentation keep stalling?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22813" CreationDate="2018-04-19T02:35:28.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as the kolch, that's a pseudo-lager and really needs twice the cell count as an ale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ale was an also an underpitch with an OG of 1.072 should have had two packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit: Just noticed it was 2.75g, (sorry i've had a few) underpitch shouldn't be the issue on this one. At 154 mash and the crystal could put TG at 1.020.  I suspect maybe mash temp calibration was off with closer to 159 Because of the blow off you noted, making a less fermentable wort.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid this in the furture. I'd recommend oxygenation with pure o2, and do a starter to grow to proper pitch cell counts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-04-19T03:00:18.473" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T03:00:18.473" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22733" CreationDate="2018-04-19T05:57:06.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really depends on the apple juice which depends on the soil the trees are grown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done size-by-side tests on 1 gallon batches with and without 1/4 tsp each of yeast nutrients (DAP, ammonium sulfate) &amp;amp; 'energizer' using commercial filtered apple juice. Using 1g Lalvin EC-1118 in each, they both fermented fine in the same time and the taste was indistinguishable. I wouldn't be surprised if the commercial orchards are well fed resulting in a juice with good nutrients. However I do seem to recall some fermentations I've tried with local wild juices being sluggish without nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16243" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T05:57:06.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22667" CreationDate="2018-04-19T07:00:33.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lalvin used to have a bunch of useful articles at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lalvinyeast.com/articles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.lalvinyeast.com/articles&lt;/a&gt; but luckily there's the &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20170330202552/http://www.lalvinyeast.com/articles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;web archive&lt;/a&gt;. Here's a summary of two on the topic of yeast viability and storage.&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160903111005/http://www.lalvinyeast.com:80/articles/storing-wine-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[2]&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20170401124255/http://www.lalvinyeast.com:80/tags/freezing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[3]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freeze-dried yeast survives best frozen, but the biggest factor regardless of temperature is oxygen damage, thus want to store it vacuum packed. In original oxygen free vacuum packing at &amp;lt; 5% moisture, they will lose 20% activity per year at 20°C (68°F), 5% at 4°C (40°F). Additional moisture and oxygen will increase rate of deterioration. Therefore the viability will decrease much more rapidly once opened and so have to compensate by inoculating with more yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another very important factor is proper re-hydration.&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20170326162456/http://www.lalvinyeast.com/articles/importance-rehydrating-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[4]&lt;/a&gt; Rehydration in distilled or deionized water is lethal to the yeast (due to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cytolysis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cytolysis&lt;/a&gt;) . Rehydrating in 15°C (60°F) water can kill 60% of the yeast. Tap water at 250ppm hardness is optimal. I've also heard to not pitch yeast with &gt; 10°C temperature differences since it shocks the yeast resulting in further loss in viability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once found a package of EC-1118 in the freezer with expiry of 2005-04 (so packaged in 2003) and rehydrated &amp;amp; pitched it 13 years later and surprisingly it worked just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16243" LastEditorUserId="16243" LastEditDate="2018-04-19T07:06:10.927" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T07:06:10.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22817" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22818" CreationDate="2018-04-19T13:46:56.000" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am on the 10th day of fermentation, and tried to get a sample to measure gravity with siphon. However after a few pushes, it stopped working and I noticed that the tip got into the carboy, which I cannot recover I believe.&#xA;See the picture below&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mRTfP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mRTfP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do now? I cannot wait for another siphon, it is a lame brand, broken on the first attempt. I have a bucket with spigot. I am considering to hold the carboy, and drop the batch inside to the sterilized, sanitized bucket. I have to do the dry hopping today, should I do hopping inside the bucket or inside the carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any risk here? If it is risky, how can I fix the damn siphon which I will never use again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer tastes fantastic and I dont want to spoil it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture of outer tube:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/md3Urm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/md3Urm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the following black part&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gGL5s.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gGL5s.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But not the otherblack part, I guess which must be check valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14496" LastEditorUserId="14496" LastEditDate="2018-04-19T14:25:33.920" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T15:10:26.417" Title="Siphon's tip got into the carboy" Tags="|bottling|siphon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22817" CreationDate="2018-04-19T14:01:16.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leave it until the batch is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your racking cane will still function, you just have to hold it above the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tip only functions as diverter when the cane is held on the bottom of the fermentor, so it doesn't make a seal when held down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: use a paper towel soaked in sanitizer to make a seal. When held in place with firm pressure from your hand you can then blow into the air filter and create positive pressure in the carboy to get the siphon flowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UhEiz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UhEiz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if your just trying to take a sample for now, I'd invest in a Turkey baster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as why it came off, the outlet tube may have been kinked or closed somehow, so the downward plung created pressure to pop the end off. It should still function once you can reattach it. Just use care when using to avoid the issue again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-04-19T15:10:26.417" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T15:10:26.417" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15005" CreationDate="2018-04-19T15:30:23.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the same problem, quite a few times. Different bottles haveing different levels of bubbling. I think it could come down to the 'conditioning', be careful to adhere to the guidlines for each type of beer, once in the bottles a lot of different science comes into play, light, temperature, vibration, and time all need to be carefully managed. Light being key to my problem at first. The yeasts need time to eat the priming sugar and give the right mix of bubbles and head, so if i get a brew which is clear yet a bit dead i just give it some more time to sort itself out. In the end , it is your creation, a beer, and it is what it is, try not to compare it to others and enjoy it for what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16245" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T15:30:23.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12004" CreationDate="2018-04-19T17:03:30.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an alternative to adding Enzymes Post boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of adding enzymes, You can add unboiled wort to your fermentor after fermentation has started to try to lower FG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unboiled wort should be pulled before &quot;mashing out&quot;, to keep the enzymes intact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read this awhile ago, but unable to find the source. but it should make a dryer beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also The unboiled wort should have enough enzymes to break down left over starches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not done this my self but I was going to try this on my next saison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T17:03:30.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22823" CreationDate="2018-04-19T19:50:33.607" Score="3" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is my bottling process.  Cold crash, keg, purge air, force carbonate while cold.  Sit a few days while serving in the kegerator and the carbonation is fine.  Time to bottle some to take to competition.  Reused brown bottles are cleaned and sanitized with Star San.  Using silver O2 absorbing caps are in a bowl of Star San.  Using a cleaned and sanitized Blichmann beer gun, purge bottle of air, then dispense.  Cap using the red two-handed capper.  I store them cold.  Within a few days however, the bottles are nearly flat.  A BJCP judge explicitly mentioned that the sample was under carbonated.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;What could be the culprit for flat bottled beer?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16246" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T12:21:15.007" Title="Why is my keg bottled beer going flat" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22821" CreationDate="2018-04-20T02:10:05.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I havn't used o2 absorbing caps, but here's what I've found out. You can check with your next batch to see if this was the problem:&#xA;- If you sanitize the o2 caps, you lose the oxygen absorbing properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So check the caps. Do some normal caps, and some o2 caps, and some santised o2 caps. Those o2 caps when it touches liquid, it activates. SO when you santise it, you're activating the o2 absorbing part already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also check to increase your force carbonation. Why? When you bottle it, there's extra head space in the bottle. Some co2 going to go out of the beer and into that space. You can also test with extra carbonation and see if that was a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16070" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T02:10:05.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22821" CreationDate="2018-04-20T03:21:10.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a couple things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your capper isn't fatigued. Cripped caps shouldn't twist even with a rag and a good amount of force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a beer gun can lose carbonation. The tale tale sign of one not set up right is more than 2 inches of head in the neck you have to flow out. Before the neck it should have almost no foam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Serving pressure on a keg system should be 12-15 psi. If you dial down less than the psi you carbonated with, you will lose carbonation as the keg empties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T03:21:10.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10010" CreationDate="2018-04-20T03:39:02.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As everyone else said the best idea is to brew the beers that you want to drink. However, if you have a good reason for brewing these beers you have several options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to do this is to filter it through a cloth that's less than .45 microns so that the beer will pass through but the yeast won't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could pasteurize it which is much easier but may ruin the flavor somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also refrigerate it and just drink it straight out of the refrigerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running at about 80°C  for 3-5 mins will pasteurize  your beer, you don't have to hit the boil, get a corney keg, fill it, drop temp to about 6-7°C, lay it down on its side and gas according to the beer you are producing, for example  Czech pilsner needs a CO2 gas volume of between 2.4 and 2.6 at 6-7°C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16227" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-05-04T00:22:07.267" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T00:22:07.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22800" CreationDate="2018-04-20T15:35:47.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Medusa is just a commercialized named for multihead. You can get them, as well as Canadian Red Vine (currently sold-out) from Great Lakes Hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.greatlakeshops.com/store/p113/MultiheadNeomexicana&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.greatlakeshops.com/store/p113/MultiheadNeomexicana&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16248" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T15:35:47.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22829" CreationDate="2018-04-22T21:57:10.197" Score="3" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve done a few batches using Safale F2 in combination with dextrose for bottle conditioning. They all came out tasting sour after 2,5 weeks, like I image young sparkling wine would taste. Now it’s do 2-3 weeks additional lagering. Previous attempts with F2 and DME came out like sweet beer. The use of dextrose is new to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also did a tasting after only 1 week of bottle fermentation. I did pick a very faint sour taste back then. But in other respects a very limited flavor impact. Over all it was a good back then, but still lacked some CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/content/homebrew-off-flavors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.morebeer.com/content/homebrew-off-flavors&lt;/a&gt; the flavor is similar to what’s mentioned as cidery. Since then I’ve done some research and it seems like champagne yeast may be labelled as ale bottling yeast. Additionally, any original yeast flavor profile is gone or very faint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it likely that F2 in combination with a monosaccharide will produce flavors like sour and wine-like? Or should I look for other possible causes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T22:25:54.933" Title="Cidery or wine flavor after bottle conditioning ale" Tags="|yeast|bottle-conditioning|ale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22827" CreationDate="2018-04-23T00:32:18.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw that &quot;cidery due to too much simple sugar&quot; issue mentioned in a few places, but for some weird reason I haven't experienced it, even though my bottling procedure always includes table (cane) sugar, and sometimes a lot (e.g. for belgians). I remember at least in one place (can't remember who was the author, though) I've read that &quot;cidery due to too much sugar&quot; lore is a legacy of early homebrewing times, when quality yeast was rare, and shitty tired yeast certainly gives you acetaldehyde.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the description of F2 I don't see how it could be a culprit. Rather, I'd check two hypotheses: a) infection, b) acetaldehyde. Leave the beer for a couple weeks more (hopefully it's not a heavily dryhopped pale ale), preferably at a room temperature, and check after. If &quot;cideriness&quot; dissipated, it was acetaldehyde. If it turns more sour, it was infection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, for 99% cases of homebrew you don't need to add extra yeast at bottling time. Normally you already have enough in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastEditorUserId="14593" LastEditDate="2018-04-23T22:25:54.933" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T22:25:54.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-23T03:22:44.683" Score="3" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was talking with someone who works at Kedem grape juice. He told me that although they put Potassium Metabisulfite in their grape juice by the time the manufacturing process is done and you actually open your grape juice there are only 2-3 parts per million of &quot;free SO2.&quot; That number seems incredibly low to me. Is it possible that he's correct or is he for sure wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note it does say &quot;contains sulfites&quot; which is only necessary if there's at least 10 ppm, but it could be that they calculate this at an earlier stage or that they calculate total SO2, not free SO2.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16227" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T09:58:58.293" Title="Percentage of SO2 in Kedem grape juice" Tags="|potassium-meta-bisulfite|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22830" CreationDate="2018-04-23T09:58:58.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible he is correct. The reason they have the message required for 10ppm is that probably the mean is 2-3ppm, but if something happens in manufacture that requires a large dosing then the level detectable is higher than 10ppm, this may be a rare occurrence or due to natural fluctuations in raw materials that require differential treatments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is as you state possible that they monitor this at an earlier stage, or that free and total are differently measured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest there is no reason not to trust their statement, but we must accept that there may be variability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T09:58:58.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22827" CreationDate="2018-04-23T10:21:57.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suspect that you have bacterial or exogenous yeast contamination. I am a large number of brewing friends bottle with table sugar and we do not see the cidery flavours often attributed to simple sugars. As Roman says this seems to be an historical hangover from poor quality yeast cultures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the falvour you have is sour apple, then you have acetaldehyde, which will hopefully drop over time. If the sourness is more like natural yoghurt or vinegar then you have bacterial/yeast contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T10:21:57.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-24T10:21:13.240" Score="10" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a chemist, I know that extraction (from hops in this case) can be different for water (hop tea), beer (eg. 7% ABV), or pure ethanol. So in theory it should make a big difference if I dry hop with hop tea, simply by adding hops to beer, or by preparing a hop-extract in mixtures with different water/ethanol ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone here have experience with this? What are the effects on flavour and aroma?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16147" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T12:11:06.027" Title="How does alcohol affect flavour/aroma when dry hopping?" Tags="|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22833" CreationDate="2018-04-24T11:56:59.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is really a question would take a book to answer completly. I'll try to hit the main points.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;. What hops are added to does change aroma and flavor. Because of the blending of everything. (Balance of a beer)&#xA;Specifically alcohol with hop flavor and aroma interactions all have good aspects in wide ratios. Alcohol &quot;heat&quot; tends to make hops bite a little or apear spicy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hop Tea&lt;/em&gt; Will add bittering to the beer as some isomerization will happen if above 175°. Will also dilute the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hop extract&lt;/em&gt;. Is used for bittering and offers little for flavor and aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When&lt;/em&gt; hops are dry hopped plays a huge role in aroma. To early and all those aromatics will be blown out with the cO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a tincture or hop addition with specific water/ethanol ratios. Would do little to improve a specific beer as they would all blend with the beer in the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I believe if a magic ratio of water/ethanol mix was discovered to extract all of a hops potential aroma and flavor. It would only do the extraction faster not more complete than a different ratio.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-04-24T12:11:06.027" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T12:11:06.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20341" CreationDate="2018-04-25T17:24:35.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beercraftr.com/1-gallon-session-ipa-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Session IPA Recipe&quot;&gt;Beercraftr&lt;/a&gt; has some excellent all-grain, one-gallon, minimal equipment recipes for beginners. The one-gallon batches have allowed me to quickly improve the quality of my craft, develop wild/interesting experiments and free-up fridge space. Who needs 40+ bottles of Lager that tastes &quot;meh&quot;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions and techniques on Beercraftr are concise, easy-to-follow and assume that you're using basic kitchen equipment. No kegging, no vorlaufing, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get comfortable with following the recipes, the blog has steps for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beercraftr.com/fruit-and-spice/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Remix a recipe to make it your own!&quot;&gt;adding fruits, spices, adjuncts and more&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've slowly scaled-up to 1.5 gallon batches — yielding about 15 bottles. I use a two-gallon bucket with a valve to both ferment and bottle (shoes included for scale).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nvSVH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nvSVH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;two gallon bottling bucket with measurements&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16259" LastActivityDate="2018-04-25T17:24:35.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22785" CreationDate="2018-04-25T21:31:18.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't really need to rack to secondary. Just cold crash in your primary fermenter, and then be very careful not to suck up any yeast from the bottom when you transfer to your bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I do it is to position my siphon so the bottom is about 2/3 of the way down in my fermentation bucket. That way there's no risk of sucking up yeast. Once the level of the beer gets near the bottom of the siphon, it's clear enough to see the trub at the bottom, so I can safely lower it to about half an inch above the trub. That ensures that I only transfer clear beer to the bottling bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Mr_road said, there's enough yeast in suspension to carbonate your bottles even after you cold crash. So if you don't suck any trub from your fermenter, your bottles will carbonate well and then have very little sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15424" LastActivityDate="2018-04-25T21:31:18.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22838" CreationDate="2018-04-26T22:48:49.000" Score="6" ViewCount="4832" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am planning on tasting my cider in the fall (6 months from pitching&#xA;  yeast) and seeing how the flavor is then. How much would the flavors&#xA;  improve aging for a year? 2 year? 5? 10? At what point would I see&#xA;  diminishing returns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Context&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second (ever) batch of cider is currently entering secondary fermentation, and has left me wondering how long I should age my Cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first batch of cider I made was done &quot;hastily&quot; and I consumed it within a few weeks of bottle conditioning. The flavor tasted like biting into a green apple and was very dry since I didn't back-sweeten it. Based on the common knowledge available this appears to be characteristic of &quot;young cider&quot;, whose flavors I would like to try mellowing out by aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that a &lt;strong&gt;period of 3-6 months is the typical recommendation for aging cider&lt;/strong&gt;. I've also read forums on home-brewing sites that higher ABV ciders benefit more from a longer aging period. The &lt;strong&gt;initial hydrometer reading of my cider tells me that I can ferment up to just under 10% ABV&lt;/strong&gt; if I ferment the cider dry (which my yeast seems to do). &lt;strong&gt;This is a bit higher than the typical cider abv.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note about long aging times I'm not really concerned about the cider becoming vinegar (see cider notes*), so I don't think that is a factor for me. Obviously I don't really plan on aging my cider for super long periods of time (longer than 20 years), which I think would be excessive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cider notes (FYI):&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small 1 Gallon batch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lallemandbrewing.com/product-details/belle-saison-beer-yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lallemand Belle Saison yeast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simply apple juice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additive: white refined sugar bringing abv from 6.6% abv -&gt; 10% abv&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additive: Pectinase (Pectin Enzyme) for clarifying juice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aiming for bottling at secondary fermentation (based on the currently clarity of the brew (golden-translucent) in primary fermentation, I do not believe I will need tertiary fermentation)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Xylitol backsweeting, aiming for 24 grams per 12 fl oz.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/4 cup Dextrose for back carbonation (4.1 Vol of Co2 according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this calculator @ 70 degrees F&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15611" LastEditorUserId="15611" LastEditDate="2018-04-27T04:00:11.800" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T17:44:34.180" Title="What is a good time frame for aging cider/apple wine?" Tags="|cider|flavor|aging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22837" CreationDate="2018-04-27T00:16:17.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't age my ciders intentionally. I control the fermentation so they are clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I have aged cider up to two years in bottles (Got lost in cooler) I prefer it fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friends that do spontaneous fermentation say they take up to 18 months to melow into something nice. &lt;strong&gt;It really depends on how you ferment.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: If you add sugar to boost ABV it's called an Apple Wine. You may find better search results using that phrase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T00:16:17.660" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22837" CreationDate="2018-04-27T17:44:34.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is purely anecdotal, but I feel like my ciders have been pretty harsh early on and have improved with time, but it was a quicker timeframe than I had expected (a few months, not years).  If you ferment to dryness and don't backsweeten (as I do, I like a dry cider), it seems like the tart &quot;green apple&quot; flavor is par for the course, and doesn't really go away.  However, once the &quot;young&quot; flavor goes away in a few months, you may find that the tart apple notes are nice once they stand more on their own.  &lt;strong&gt;I agree with the 3-6 months that you're seeing.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation: once you have a fermentation vessel free, start another batch!  By the time batch 2 has finished, batch 1 will have aged some, and you can directly compare the two (or 3 or 4...)  You'll have no trouble finding friends who are willing to participate in a taste-testing experiment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: This may be due to my own imperfect attention to fermentation temps etc, but I feel like I've gotten more weird harsh flavors when I've used white sugar as an additive.  The unfermentables in brown sugar lend a little bittering that's not a bad thing, malt extract will leave some residual sweetness plus contain nutrients for the yeast, and juice concentrate will probably thicken the body and add more super-apple flavor.  Honey is my favorite, and imparts the impression of sweetness plus honey aroma, and has always made the cider go crystal clear after a month for reasons I've never known.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T17:44:34.180" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22841" CreationDate="2018-04-28T17:04:59.423" Score="6" ViewCount="1698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to begin my first batch but I know sanitizing is really important and I don't want to make mistake about it, so I read &lt;em&gt;How to brew - Everything you need to know to brew great beer every time&lt;/em&gt; and it is written about sanitizing with Star San:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No-rinse. Can be used via immersion or spraying. Will sanitize clean surfaces with 30 sec. contact time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I went on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brouwland.com/en/our-products/cleaning/cleaning-products/d/star-san-hb-five-star-118-ml-en-it&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brouwland&lt;/a&gt; to make my order and I saw about the product:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Prepare a solution of 15 - 25 ml Star San HB™ per 10 L of water. Apply on surface with a cloth, mop, sponge, spray or by immersion. Spray 15-20 cm from surface and rub with a brush, cloth or sponge. The surface must remain wet for &lt;strong&gt;at least 1 minute. Rinse with water of the same temperature.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are differences about time and rince. About the time, I guess it is not really important and I can wait 60 seconds without risks. But about rince: &lt;strong&gt;should I do it or not?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To finish and add some confusion, Five Star edits a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brouwland.com/content/docs/FIVE_STAR_cleaning_guide_11_talen_118x118_lowres.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cleaning guide&lt;/a&gt; who says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your equipment is ready for use immediately after removing the solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16268" LastActivityDate="2018-04-28T17:52:41.077" Title="Should I rinse my equipment after sanitizing with Star San HB Five Star?" Tags="|sanitation|starsan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22840" CreationDate="2018-04-28T17:52:41.077" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No rinse needed, if you follow the description on the bottle for the proper mix. If I remember correctly, the sanitization compound gets deactivated at a pH that's normal for brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a nice podcast with the inventor of starsan, where he explains that even the 30 secs are not needed. I'll post a link for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-04-28T17:52:41.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22846" CreationDate="2018-04-28T20:00:35.343" Score="5" ViewCount="1059" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone knows that reverse osmosis filter strips out the minerals from water, but no one on Google is telling the way to adding them back into the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been drinking reverse osmosis water from a year and its tds rate is also 25 which is pretty good, but it is not hydrating me and I've seen many research on Google about stripped minerals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;what should be put in water and how?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there any mineral based powder or something? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16269" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-05-30T08:24:05.227" LastActivityDate="2019-02-17T19:02:37.673" Title="Adding minerals back into reverse osmosis water?" Tags="|water|water-filtration|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22842" CreationDate="2018-04-28T22:56:07.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If what you are making is homebrew beer and known beer clone, then its not entirely uncommon to copy the natural mineral composition of the water source. In my limited experience this is &lt;em&gt;quite an advanced&lt;/em&gt; undertaking. Many seem to use RO water or simply declorinated water for making beer. Me personally, check a recent water treatment plant report and dechlorinate. If needed I might also adjust the alkalinity of the water, but the minerals I keep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastActivityDate="2018-04-28T22:56:07.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22850" CreationDate="2018-04-29T03:06:27.147" Score="3" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleaning up after brewing my first extract-based Belgian wit, with wort already cooled and in the carboy, and yeast pitched ... I discovered to my horror i'd forgotten to add the candi syrup to the boil!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe called for 1 lb golden candi syrup for a 5 gallon batch, added near the end. I've got plenty of airspace in my 6 gallon carboy, and the package is sealed. OG is 1.056 (BrewTarget suggests it should have been up around 1.068). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can i just pitch the candi syrup in? do i need to boil it with some water to sanitize it first? &#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;EDIT: Thanks all for the suggestions! I wanted to be extra careful, so I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brought 4 c of water to a boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;added 5 oz Pilsen DME (proportional to the original recipe) and boiled for 5 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turned off the heat, stirred in the candi syrup, and threw in a couple of Fuggles pellets for good measure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put it all in an ice bath to bring the temp down quickly to ~70 degrees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;poured it into my carboy through my racking tube to avoid splashing, and stirred it up a bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was already perking along well, so I expect there won't be any problems (but i'll report back if anything unusual results). &#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;Results: perked along well for quite a long time. I sampled gravity today (after 3 weeks in primary) at 1.016, which is relatively close to the target FG. Taste seems fine (pre-carbonation). So i'm calling this experiment a success. Time to bottle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16077" LastEditorUserId="16077" LastEditDate="2018-05-19T17:43:20.703" LastActivityDate="2018-05-19T17:43:20.703" Title="Save the (Belgian) wit! I forgot the candi syrup: what should I do now?" Tags="|fermentation|sugar|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-29T08:11:32.280" Score="1" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottle my beer 5 days ago, and today I just opened for a test purpose, and it gushed. It is an Ale, and instructions say I should keep it in a warm place 2 weeks before putting to cool place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I put my bottles to fridge to prevent bottle bombs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14496" LastActivityDate="2018-04-29T08:20:39.280" Title="Beer gushing at day 5 of bottling: Bottle bombs?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|cooling|maturation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22842" CreationDate="2018-04-29T08:11:48.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can add the minerals in powder form. There is one you already have in your kitchen: NaCl - Sodium Chloride or Table Salt :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of brewing related information on water chemistry. Maybe have a look here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The information will be mostly for brewing, but it will also tell you about the salts that you can use. Here is an overview of the common salts: &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/understanding-the-mash-ph/using-salts-for-brewing-water-adjustment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/understanding-the-mash-ph/using-salts-for-brewing-water-adjustment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out how much you must use, maybe have a look at a bottle of your favourite mineral water. Normally the tell you what is inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-04-29T08:11:48.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22844" CreationDate="2018-04-29T08:16:02.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no idea how good the candy sirup will dissolve in the cold beer. Can you take out some of your wort, boil the candy sirup in it, let it cool down and add it back to the rest of the beer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-04-29T08:16:02.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22845" CreationDate="2018-04-29T08:20:39.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never had bottle bombs, but what I would do is the following: refrigerate all bottles, and carefully open and re-cap each one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You release the extra pressure, when opening the bottle and will stop the yeast from producing more CO2 with cooling the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-04-29T08:20:39.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22784" CreationDate="2018-04-29T08:37:49.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the &quot;Brew Files&quot; Podcast there were two episodes with an author who wrote a book on historic german beer styles. Maybe he can help you?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.experimentalbrew.com/podcast/brew-files-episode-32-german-beer-history-andreas&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.experimentalbrew.com/podcast/brew-files-episode-32-german-beer-history-andreas&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also has a blog where he references the &quot;Brunswik Mumm&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://dafteejit.com/2016/01/historic-german-beers-that-did-not-conform-to-the-reinheitsgebot/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://dafteejit.com/2016/01/historic-german-beers-that-did-not-conform-to-the-reinheitsgebot/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: In the comments of this blog post they are talking about the recipe of the Mumm: &lt;a href=&quot;http://dafteejit.com/2018/02/my-new-book/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://dafteejit.com/2018/02/my-new-book/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-04-29T08:37:49.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22844" CreationDate="2018-04-29T16:34:17.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would make a small 1/2 to 1g batch of 1.056 wort similar to your grain bill and hop profile, IBU. Then add syrup to that, chill and add to main batch.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reason I wouldn't pull wort from batch to boil is the yeast will die in a bad way and may release bad off flavors. Also you will have a slight ABV reduction in boiling off what ever ethanol that's been made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could with reasonable saftey just add the syrup to the fermentor and swirl to,mix in. If it's been at room temp for storage with no signs of swelling it should be free of infecting contaminates. But the only way to be certain is to get it to a boil with the above recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-04-29T16:34:17.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22844" CreationDate="2018-04-29T16:50:19.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just add it to the fermenter.  It's a common practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-04-29T16:50:19.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2018-04-29T23:14:26.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I call it honey shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110° C would be a good temperature for a stripping run but you will get a lot of water with your shine. If you want a really good tasting shine to use a copper pot still and run it at 85°C until it starts to slow the run then slowly bring the heat up until you reach 98°C to 99°C, I never run the still over 99°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use 1 gal of honey to 4 gals of water in a 6 gal carboy dissolved at 70°C and then cooled to 21°C then I add a  sake yeast. I let it ferment for 2 weeks then I add a  distillers yeast and let it sit for another 4 weeks. Keep the temperature between 21°C and 23°C while fermenting and it gets me about 25-30% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I add a clarifier and let sit for 3-5 days. It is still cloudy, but the pot still doesn’t care. Just still it low and slow. I let it run until my proof is about 110 and don’t cut it. You will get a mellow crystal clear shine that is a little sweet and tastes like the honey you used with no burn in the back of your throat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have aged it in a new white oak lightly chard 5 gallon barrel for 5 years at 110P and it is the most pleasant spirit I have ever tasted. Think of a French  cognac only smoother and sweeter (best 40th B-day ever) but that takes a lot of restraint. It is good enough to drink right out of the still. I usally get about a gallon, but every year the honey is different and every year the shine tastes different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run about 8 batches a year and share with friends and never have a drop left when I start stilling the next batch of shine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16274" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-04-30T14:10:52.537" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T14:10:52.537" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-04-29T23:14:26.327" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-30T18:14:18.073" Score="2" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;Producing a variety of different beer styles, we are able make adult friends happy, however children are left out :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I therefore wanted to ask if somebody knows where to look for yeasts that are not producing alcohol, yet ferment a wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Wikipedia one can read about this commercial product &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bionade&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bionade (wikipedia)&lt;/a&gt;, which suggest that some person at a brewery (after claimed years of experimenting) was able to cultivate a mico-organism (not really a yeast but a bacteria) that instead of generating alcohol, generates gluconic acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;He experimented for eight years in a bathroom laboratory, spending&#xA;  €1.5 million of the brewery owner Peter Kowalsky's money. He isolated&#xA;  a strain of bacteria capable of converting the sugar that normally&#xA;  becomes alcohol into nonalcoholic gluconic acid, which he used to&#xA;  ferment the new drink.[3]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there maybe an non-proprietary, open source version of this bacteria?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14242" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-04-30T22:49:36.563" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T22:49:36.563" Title="Which yeast/bacteria produce no, or little alcohol (like Bionade)?" Tags="|fermentation|alcohol-content|bacteria|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22854" CreationDate="2018-04-30T19:33:07.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there are some sub species of lactobacillus that consume sugar and create latic acid, but don't create ethanol. (homofermentative)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many others can be forced to only produce acid and cO2 by depriving them of oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Lactobacillus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Lactobacillus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a great one page resource on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Has far as the bactiera you mention I'm not aware of any public version.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DYI Bionade:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bionade.de/en/production-process/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bionade.de/en/production-process/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Humorously they do not specify what the bacteria is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The genius is Gluconobacter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gluconobacter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gluconobacter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-04-30T19:47:38.493" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T19:47:38.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22857" CreationDate="2018-04-30T20:21:55.727" Score="3" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a batch of Cincinnati Pale Ale with the recipe describes in the &lt;em&gt;How to brew&lt;/em&gt; of John Palmer book. To do it, I need Pale Ale DME. The problem is my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brouwland.com/en/our-products/brewing/malt-extracts/spraymalt/spraymalt-brewferm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;homebrew shop&lt;/a&gt; only indicates the EBC value of the malt extract and not directly the type of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beermonthclub.com/beer-style-guide-ales&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt;, an American Pale Ale have an EBC between 10 and 25. Does it mean I should take a DME with an EBC between those values?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found, on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/pale-ale-dry-malt-extract-dme.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website of another shop&lt;/a&gt;, a pale ale malt extract with 6°L (14.5 EBC). If my shop doesn't sell 14.5 EBC dry malt extract, should I mix two different DME to get this EBC?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, how can we choose the correct DME according to the type of beer we want to make?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16268" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T20:43:02.267" Title="Which dry malt extract for which type of beer?" Tags="|dme|shopping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22856" CreationDate="2018-04-30T20:43:02.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your target beer is an American pale ale which can have Carmel color variants from 5-10 SRM / 9.8-19.7 EBC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm not sure what that specific beers color is.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going darker will have more Carmel flavor and slightly sweeter perception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any extract derived from 2-row yielding the above color range is a pale malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T20:43:02.267" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17489" CreationDate="2018-04-30T23:16:12.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd bet that your result was probably because of temperature issues. Sounds like a case where the enzyme wasn't given an optimal temperature for the starch to sugar conversion process. Because that didn't happen, the yeast culture died out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're taking this approach (replacing nuruk/koji mold with an enzyme), I'd recommend trying alpha amylase and also a separate process for the starch conversion using amylase... that way you can work it at a higher temperature (30 to 60degC at a roughly neutral pH), followed by a separate low temperature long duration yeast fermentation (around 10 to 15 degC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16278" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T23:16:12.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22844" CreationDate="2018-05-01T18:43:30.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just leave it out. Take careful notes of how it turns out. Brew it again when you have capacity and add the candi syrup that time. Then you will have the basis for comparison and you'll have a pretty good idea what it adds to your final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6350" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T18:43:30.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22861" CreationDate="2018-05-01T21:59:40.420" Score="2" ViewCount="3923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a healthy ginger bug for the first 4 days which was bubbling away nicely until it all stopped for no apparent reason. I kept feeding it as per normal and it didn't do anything for another 4 days.&#xA;I decided that I would give it a &quot;kick start&quot; and feed it some yeast to get it back into life which has worked along with regular feeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is will this be fine to use and is it still technically a ginger bug or should I give up and try again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starter Recipe below&#xA;2 Cups water &#xA;2 Tablespoons ginger&#xA;2 Tablespoons Sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feeding daily&#xA;1 Tablespoons ginger&#xA;1 Tablespoons Sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3206" LastActivityDate="2018-05-02T08:31:21.567" Title="Ginger bug stopped bubbling so I added some yeast" Tags="|ginger-beer|ginger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22860" CreationDate="2018-05-02T08:31:21.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, still a ginger bug. Sometimes they need a little help, 4 days is not enough for all the critters in your bug to die, most likely it got cold or there was a sudden drop in temp one day and the bug became dormant. You did the right thing priming it with a bit of extra yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the bacteria or yeasts may have died off, but with you regularly adding in fresh chopped ginger they will get reintroduced and a balanced bug will rebuild itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-05-02T08:31:21.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-03T00:02:22.697" Score="2" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am an amateur without any necessary equipment to degas my brew. &#xA;Last night, I forgot to check on it; now the bottle won't even bulge so I can release that unwanted pressure from the c02 buildup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to open my bottle without destroying it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: It exploded. &#xA;My goal was simple, to turn a bottle of welch's 100% Grape Juice into wine over a week. I first activated the baker's yeast using warm water and sugar and then put it in the grape juice. I put the juice in a closed metal canister, which was a terrible mistake. Do not put your brew in a closed bottle, it must have some sort of an exhaust where the c02 gas from the fermentation process can exit — an airlock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16281" LastEditorUserId="16281" LastEditDate="2018-05-04T07:34:40.860" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T16:22:52.867" Title="How do I open a pressurized bottle of home-made wine?" Tags="|wine|pressure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22864" CreationDate="2018-05-03T01:10:23.193" Score="4" ViewCount="2671" Body="&lt;p&gt;The specs for Lallemand BRY-97 dry yeast explain that aeration of the wort is not necessary. I've had good results following their instructions precisely, but I wonder if I'm missing out. I wonder if they are saying &quot;&lt;em&gt;technically&lt;/em&gt; you don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to aerate&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...in other words, do I need to buy aerating equipment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lallemandbrewing.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/lallemand-tds-bry97-022817-1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;technical sheet&lt;/a&gt;, at the end of the REHYDRATION section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;BRY-97 yeast has been conditioned to survive rehydration. The yeast&#xA;  contains an adequate reservoir of carbohydrates and unsaturated fatty&#xA;  acids to achieve active growth. It is unnecessary to aerate wort upon&#xA;  first use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16282" LastEditorUserId="16282" LastEditDate="2018-05-03T01:41:43.777" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T03:24:46.467" Title="Lallemand says their dry yeast does not require aerated wort. Should I aerate anyway?" Tags="|aeration|dry-yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22863" CreationDate="2018-05-03T02:07:08.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, this looks like a cut and paste and propbably doesn't differ much from thier other species of yeast that may benifiet from hard growth conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast needs oxygen for healthy growth. Healthy growth reduces esters. &lt;strong&gt;If the yeast has a clean ester profile it will, do better with oxygen.&lt;/strong&gt; All yeast grow better with oxygen, but some yeast you actually want to stress to get them to produce desirable esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lack of oxygen is the trigger for yeast to end growth phases and begin feeding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T02:07:08.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22886" CreationDate="2018-05-03T08:22:25.923" Score="5" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing an imperial wit beer and it seems i have a problem with my wort beeing stuck in fermentation at 1.040.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wort is wheat extract 3.4kg and 1kg candi sugar, steeped with some oat flakes, mesured OG is 1.074.&#xA;My yeast is belgian wit II (WLP410). I've made a 1.5L starter, my pitch rate is supposed to be around 0.90, my fermentation temp is 20.5°C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Tilt hydrometer to real time check my gravity, i noticed it was stuck after 2 days, (begin of fermentation was very quick and efficient).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took immediate action by stiring my wort and adding some boiled dead bakers yeast (as nutrient) but today is seems fermentation is not really restarting ? (see graph)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should be my next action ? Make a new starter of WLP410 and repitch ? wait ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LunjP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LunjP.png&quot; alt=&quot;fermentation profile&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T08:13:02.913" Title="Fermentation still stuck after adding nutrients?" Tags="|fermentation|stuck-fermentation|high-gravity|wheat-beer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22865" CreationDate="2018-05-03T08:48:54.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is most likely not the nutrients that are needed but oxygen, your stir will have introduced sufficent oxygen to drop a further 5 points of gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I advise popping the top and giving it a really good stir, and a shake this will do 2 things, firstly in gets some more oxygen into the wort, and also resuspends the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T08:48:54.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22865" CreationDate="2018-05-03T13:08:34.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxygen at this point may create some oxidation off flavors (wet paper) since you're close to 50% attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to warm it up and swirl more. I would go to 74°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would question your measuring device. You shouldn't have any significant rises until it has completed. Usually on a graph at the very end of fermentation a slight rise in gravity is the indicator of yeast cell death. It really shouldn't have so many saw tooth spikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you may want to read the spec sheet on your wheat extract. Some wheat extracts intentionally have a lot of residual starch and are intended as only 50% of the fermentables. &lt;strong&gt;Basically you may be at terminal gravity.&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;You can check with an iodine test of a sample of the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the steeped oats will add starches affecting the gravity but will be unfermentable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-05-03T13:29:47.733" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T13:29:47.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22865" CreationDate="2018-05-03T15:37:16.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely your fermentation is done, not stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T15:37:16.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22863" CreationDate="2018-05-03T15:40:39.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is almost never a need to aerate/oxygenate with dry yeast.  The purpose if aeration is that the O2 is used by the yeast to synthesize sterols.  Those keep the cell walls flexible to encourage budding.  Because there are so many cells in a pack of dry yeast, there is little to need need for cell growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T15:40:39.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22871" CreationDate="2018-05-03T17:11:54.780" Score="5" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9uMXw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9uMXw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3TVl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3TVl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This journal is dated 1757.&#xA;Pasteur connected yeast to fermentation in 1856 (discovered what yeast does)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically bakers would take beer &quot;waste&quot; to make bread rise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also there are early references of people's jobs to provide beer waste / trub to other breweries. But they didn't call it trub or yeast. The references escape me right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The word &lt;strong&gt;yeast&lt;/strong&gt; is derived from the old English words gyst or gist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find when the word yeast started to be the name of this beer waste or even in baking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The word used in the journal doesn't appear to be &quot;yeast&quot; or &quot;yeat&quot;. Appears to end in a &quot;r&quot; based on his other uses of the letter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So what was this word he used to discribe what seems to be beer trub?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-05-03T17:19:11.263" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T19:20:13.820" Title="George Washington's beer recipe. Did he say &quot;yeast&quot;?" Tags="|yeast|beer|trub|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22870" CreationDate="2018-05-03T19:20:13.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the word &quot;Yeast&quot; or &quot;Yeat&quot; or &quot;Yest&quot; (hard to tell from old writings) was commonly used in England (and probably America) around Washington's time. I quickly found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://wellcomelibrary.org/item/b19735029#?m=0&amp;amp;cv=120&amp;amp;c=0&amp;amp;s=0&amp;amp;z=0.525%2C0.4859%2C0.1492%2C0.0936&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recipe book from England&lt;/a&gt; c. 1700 and quickly found a beer recipe and they mention using &quot;yest&quot; or &quot;yeat&quot; twice in the recipe. I'm pretty sure they used the dregs from one batch to another and probably also used it for bread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/21cPK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/21cPK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T19:20:13.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22862" CreationDate="2018-05-04T08:30:55.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ah, yes... I see now how this went explodey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are just taking juice dumping in bakers yeast and wanting wine, you can do this it is simple, won't taste great but will be wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise using pop/soda bottles, and to for the first few days leave the top on very loose so the CO2 can escape when it stops bubbling, tighten the lid. Then give it a little shake and let the gas escape, do this 3 or 4 times carefully, then I would leave the lid on loose again for a couple more days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat the shaking and degassing, then put it in the fridge for a day or 2 to cause your yeast to clump together and drop to the bottom. Then decant off into bottles to store, or a jug to drink now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are storing and don't know if fermentation is complete, use soda bottles, they are high pressure rated, and easy to 'burp'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will work and you will have wine, I have done this myself before with ginger wine, blackberry wine, and plum wine, I made wine we all got drunk. But, it was not good wine, we mostly mixed it with orange juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of tweaks I would suggest though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get some wine yeast, a strain that has been selected for over hundreds of years for its winemaking abilities is far far better than bakers yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get yourself a demijohn and airlock and a length of tubing to siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these things, you are ready to make gallon after gallon of wine for the rest of your life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also get this book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/First-Steps-Winemaking-C-Berry/dp/1854861395&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.co.uk/First-Steps-Winemaking-C-Berry/dp/1854861395&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T08:30:55.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22862" CreationDate="2018-05-04T16:22:52.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a very simple way of doing this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment whatever juice you have to dryness in bottle different from the final bottle. 1 gallon glass jug would work. Use some wine yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer wine/hootch to a sparkling wine/apple juice bottle (Martinelli's are great for this). They can hold the pressure. Leave about 1.5&quot; of head space&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put about 5 grams of table sugar in the bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a crown cap on the bottle (you'll need a bottle capper for this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait a minimum of 2 weeks. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chill and open and enjoy. The longer you leave it in the bottle the better it will get.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveats: Using Welch's grape juice will give inferior results. Use the white juice instead of the red. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T16:22:52.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22895" CreationDate="2018-05-04T16:49:16.690" Score="4" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been through a bunch of books, resources and articles and I'm wondering if there are any specific classes/fields that I can audit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There aren't any brewing programs near me in the formal sense so I'm looking for college-level classes or something that would benefit my homebrewing and further a potential career.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15277" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-05-10T15:18:41.047" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T11:09:06.277" Title="Furthering brewing education" Tags="|books|learning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22874" CreationDate="2018-05-04T18:25:58.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the USA, one of the best schools is UC Davis. Y&lt;a href=&quot;https://extension.ucdavis.edu/subject-areas/brewing-short-courses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ou can take many classes online&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T18:25:58.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22863" CreationDate="2018-05-05T03:24:46.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's important to note that they specifically say aeration is only unnecessary for &lt;em&gt;'first use'&lt;/em&gt;. This is very common for active dry yeasts, the reason being that most are grown under 'oxidative' conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Denny Conn correctly points out, the point of aeration is to provide yeast the means of synthesizing sterols and unsaturated fatty acids, which allow for cell growth/division. The oxidative growth technique used to produce dried yeasts actually helps to stabilize the cells against the dehydration process, in part by increasing the production of these compounds (by up to 5 times).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a consequence, though, you no longer need to provide oxygen when pitching these yeasts &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; because they already contain sufficient sterols and UFAs to support several rounds of cell division (the 'growth' phase). If you were to save the yeast for re-use, it would be starved for sterols and UFAs (having consumed them all during growth in the previous batch), and would therefore require oxygenation upon re-pitching in order for growth to occur (unless you were to first make an aerated starter with it). You don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; cell growth if you pitch enough, but as EvilZymurgist points out, this can have important impacts for beer flavor (esters, especially). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So should you have aeration equipment? If you plan to re-pitch the yeast, then yes. If you will use a new packet of dry yeast for each batch, I'd say don't bother, at least for now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a sense, oxygenation is just a means to an end (allowing synthesis of sterols and UFAs) and if they are already present in sufficient quantities, there's no point to oxygenate further. Basically, whether or not you need to oxygenate, and the effects that oxygenating will have, will depend on the physical state of the yeast and its particular nutrient reserves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting too that I don't think this statement is meant to apply exclusively to this strain (BRY-97), but rather to all active dry yeasts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T03:24:46.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-05T16:47:33.680" Score="2" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a makedo airlock; I couldn't make it shorter as the loop bends itself and air couldn't pass through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/gallery/TOA6i7f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://imgur.com/gallery/TOA6i7f&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16281" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T19:07:43.077" Title="Will this home-made airlock work?" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22877" CreationDate="2018-05-05T19:07:43.077" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will probably be OK. The smaller the bore of the tube, the greater the tendency will be for any bubbles to push the liquid right out. You could just make a blow-off instead by submerging the venting end of the tube in a vessel full of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T19:07:43.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-06T09:23:56.637" Score="3" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will 10 ounces of juice ferment the same rate as a gallon of juice, with the same amount of yeast and sugar added in both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16281" LastActivityDate="2018-05-06T17:25:43.787" Title="Does the volume of juice determine the length of fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|wine|red-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-06T17:11:55.040" Score="1" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a freezer for use as a fermenting unit. How do I know where to drill my holes? Any advice greatly appreciated. I cannot see any specific advice on the net.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16287" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-05-07T20:56:45.987" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T21:04:19.437" Title="Where do I drill my homebrew fermenting fridge?" Tags="|beer|equipment|refrigerator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22879" CreationDate="2018-05-06T17:25:43.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick answer No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer no not exactly, you may or may not notice the difference if you took a gravity reading every 30 min, but if you just take 1 reading per day you are unlikely to notice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to add the same proportion of yeast to the same volume then yes, in gallon vs 10oz volumes then you would see no difference. If you add the same cell count of yeast per unit volume then you tend to get the same rate of fermentation regardless of the total volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-05-06T17:25:43.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22865" CreationDate="2018-05-06T23:55:53.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that your starter was too small, and you might not have put any nutrients into it. Mind you, starter is the best place to put extra nutrients in. Kettle is the second best. Fermenter at the time of stuck fermentation - useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither heating nor rousing yeast used to help me with stuck fermentations. Maybe for a couple points, but not seriously. Especially in this case: belgian wit is already low flocculating yeast, and I bet there's a lot still in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What helped was a technique called krausening. It's effectively like a new starter made from the same wort. You could try and create 1 liter of similar profile wort with extract and hops, rather ~1.040 in gravity (so as not to stress yeast), make sure it's fed and aerated very well, and dump into your fermenter after 16-24 hours, when it's at highest krausen. Don't worry much about oxidation, as active yeast will consume that extra oxygen you're going to add with the &quot;starter&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time make a properly sized starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-05-06T23:55:53.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22880" CreationDate="2018-05-07T02:51:18.620" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't&lt;/strong&gt; drill or use screws. Use magnets to hold drip trays etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chest freezers have refrigerant coils in the walls.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lids &amp;amp; doors are ok. Only risk hitting some electrical for the lights, but usually easy to trace and avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probe wires are usually fine just cutting the lid seal a little so they have a channel. Mine seal just fine without any modification to the cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need tubing ports, it's best to build a collar, like on a keezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-05-07T14:21:45.657" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T14:21:45.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22874" CreationDate="2018-05-07T03:05:43.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;BJCP.org&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have great resources on studying to be a BJCP. While 90% on how to judge beers and to know styles and beer defects, having this as a base knowedge will help tremendously in brewing education.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T03:05:43.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22865" CreationDate="2018-05-07T07:23:37.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, actually, after one week or so, i have new data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see on the graph below, my fermentation restarted and slowly&#xA;made its way to ~1.020 (it's still fermenting and i'll leave it for one more week or so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation was actually stuck and there was still a lot of fermentable sugar, my guess is that my initial problem was not enough oxygenation of the wort when beginning fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stirring immediately when stalling has likely restarted the growth of yeast and after a little lag, fermentation slowly restarted. (I also increased temperature to 21.5°C to help)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My conclusions, based on my experience and answers from other people are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oxygenation is critical for good fermentation, especially for high gravity wort (I had done the same starter and oxygenation for a lower gravity wort and it had worked like a charm, this one is higher gravity and thus requires more oxygen in wort).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If fermentation is stuck early in fermentation, stirring can be a solution to re-oxygenize a bit, but oxydation may occur, so no stirring in attenuation is over 50%.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase of temperature from 20°C to 22°C may also have helped restarting&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;krausening could be an other good final solution to stuck fermentation, i didn't need to do it this time, but definitively worth trying if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Patience&lt;/strong&gt; is the most important thing ! Before doing any attempts, wait to see if there is really a problem!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4kBFe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4kBFe.png&quot; alt=&quot;New data of gravity vs time&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to everyone for answering :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastEditorUserId="15886" LastEditDate="2018-05-07T08:13:02.913" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T08:13:02.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22880" CreationDate="2018-05-07T20:44:07.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check if it has any kind of drain hole to allow defrosting liquid to drain out. In that case, and assuming you can remove any plugs from your cables, you could route them through there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T20:44:07.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22880" CreationDate="2018-05-07T21:04:19.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming it is a chest freezer, you can inspire yourself by looking how people build a keezer:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHWy_Vlw3J4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HOW TO BUILD A KEEZER by Northern Brewer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could add a wood rim between the chest and the lid, so that way, you can drill the wood without damaging the freezer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T21:04:19.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-08T20:24:24.987" Score="5" ViewCount="2261" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I'll want to brew an imperial stout, let it ferment in primary and then rack it to secondary. How important is the temperature in secondary? I have a temperature controlled fridge to hold the fermentation temperature in primary. I need to make space in the fridge and can't have it there for 3 more months. I have the option to put it into a cooling house (like 5 degrees celsius) or into the quiet warm cellar. Is this an issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16267" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T13:06:22.260" Title="How important is temperature in secondary?" Tags="|temperature|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22889" CreationDate="2018-05-08T23:31:53.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For imperial stout a warm cellar is ok. I kept my imperial stout for fermenter- and then bottle-conditioning in the cellar where temperature reached 25C in summer, and it turned out great (got the 2nd place in a competition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't do it for styles where freshness is required, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T23:31:53.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-09T02:16:07.030" Score="3" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which is the minimum working pressure to be capable to carbonate my beer inside the fermenter when the fermentation is over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about to buy a 0,1MPa (working preassure) fermenter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16297" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-05-09T17:54:43.530" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T17:54:43.530" Title="Minimum working pressure of stainless fermenter to carbonate in fermenter" Tags="|fermentation|carbonation|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22889" CreationDate="2018-05-09T10:06:21.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your secondary is purely for maturation and off the yeast cake, then I would say the temperature you store bottled beers at is reasonable ie any ambient room temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At warmer temperatures, different maturation flavour will develop at different rates but if you are leaving it for 3 months then I wouldn't worry about it. I have left Imperial Milds and Stouts in the FV for 2 months then bottled up and left for a year plus at wildly fluctuating cellar/room temps 12-30C; the beer came out delicious from month 2 to still now 2 years later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T10:06:21.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22891" CreationDate="2018-05-09T10:10:10.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;0.1 MPa is 14.8 psi, which is within the 12-18 PSI range you would need to reasonable carbonate most beers at 40-50 degF with roughly 2.0-3.0 volumes of CO2. At 14 psi and 40 degF you would be good for getting upto 2.6 volumes of CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you can chill down to 32 degF 0 degC then you may only need 7 or 8 PSI to get good carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this table for a good guide to PSI/volCO2/temp/beerstyle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-05-09T15:29:17.507" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T15:29:17.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22889" CreationDate="2018-05-09T12:24:04.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Based on your additional comments. This answer addresses aging beer and temperature.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It really depends on your vessel you age in.  Specifically if you can maintain zero oxygen and if the beer is carbonated.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a fermenter with an air-lock I recommend keeping it below 40°F, because airlocks can go dry or fail exposing it to oxygen and allowing otherwise dormant microbes to grow. Lower temp will buy you time to correct issues before they effect the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bottle or keg, room or cellar temps are fine. If kegging I recommend carbonating before aging and check weekly to insure its maintaining pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Beers age more quickly as temperature increases.&lt;/strong&gt; We've &quot;hot&quot; aged beers for just a few weeks in summer temps (90°+F), and they come out as refined as a 6 month cellar beer. (Kegged, carbonated and completely oxygen free)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-05-09T12:29:29.877" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T12:29:29.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22874" CreationDate="2018-05-10T09:31:26.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK and US there is a wide range of options available to you depending on your budget. (I know you are in the US midwest, but I will try keep this as widely relevant as I can).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As previously mentioned, UC Davis has an excellent degree program and has a huge number of resources online; also the Siebel Institute in Chicago, IL is highly respected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US there is the Brewers Association: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersassociation.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersassociation.org&lt;/a&gt;, the industry updates section has a huge wealth of resources on Best Practice, Engineering, Quality etc... and the schools section has a lot of the other organisations I have mentioned in this answer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersassociation.org/resources/schools-organizations/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersassociation.org/resources/schools-organizations/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The American Brewers Guild: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abgbrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.abgbrew.com/&lt;/a&gt; has a range of courses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worldwide you could apply to join the IBD: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ibd.org.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ibd.org.uk/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It has branches worldwide. You would start off with their GCB, then migrate onto the Diploma then the Master Brewer, these are generally taken alongside work place experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;University of Nottingham and Heriott-Watt Edinburgh here in the UK have distance learning programs for brewing and distilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, regardless of where you live in the world, I highly recommend getting and reading a copy of this book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1498751911/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1498751911/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/1498751911&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/dp/1498751911/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Kindle version is £30/$40 but I would recommend the full £120/$180 hardback if you are serious about it, the diagrams and photography are not as good or just absent in the Kindle version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for something to benefit a future career, my first bit of advice would be to send your CV and cover letter to every brewery you could possibly commute to and ask them for a job. There is no substitute in this industry for practical hands-on experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many small breweries would love to employ a hard working passionate individual regardless of diploma or certificates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just found &lt;a href=&quot;https://allaboutbeer.net/article/beer-schools/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, it has a few schools in Minnesota, Michigan, and Illinois that you may wish to take a look at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2021-10-31T11:09:06.277" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T11:09:06.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22896" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-10T18:12:32.457" Score="4" ViewCount="1886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a newbie for homebrew wheat beer making. I used the alcotec turbo yeast 24 express(distiller yeast) for the fermentation. But After 20 hours brew is stopping fermentation.&#xA;Can I keep it for the two weeks? Is it hygienic for the drink? Do I need more yeast for completing the fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16305" LastActivityDate="2020-07-03T13:23:37.027" Title="Turbo Yeast for making wheat beer" Tags="|yeast|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22896" CreationDate="2018-05-10T20:29:35.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a good chance that the turbo yeast has ripped through all your sugars and is done. Turbo yeast is not the best yeast to make beers or ales as it is optimised for speed/abv rate of production, not deliciousness of the final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saying all that, unless your beer smells undrinkable or tastes undrinkable, then it usually is drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could provide the recipe you used with volumes and quantities that would be very helpful for us to be able to provide you with more advice. Also a picture of the FV and your beer can never hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that is left for me to say is welcome to the world of brewing and go buy a hydrometer they are very useful :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2020-07-03T13:23:37.027" LastActivityDate="2020-07-03T13:23:37.027" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-10T21:49:32.030" Score="3" ViewCount="991" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying my first batch of lager with Munich malted barley cascade hops.&#xA;I pitched the lager yeast at a relatively high temp around 25°C. I had oxigenated my wort as it cooled in the boil kettle with pure CO2. I left 40L fermenter in room temp 22°C overnight to let the fermentation start. I had very strong bubbling the next morning. At that point I placed my fermenter in a refrigerator and set temp at 12°C. After a week my bubbling seemed to end in the air lock. I lowered the temp to 5°C and let it rest for another week. My FG was 1.012 and 1.020 after priming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bottled and placed in fridge again about 17°C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: what temp should I keep for getting good CO2 after bottling?&#xA;Should I have kept it in room temp about 22°C for a day or so before cooling?&#xA;Beer tasted not too bad but little CO2 before I bottled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all potential answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16306" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-05-11T15:57:42.547" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T15:57:42.547" Title="Secondary fermentation temperature after priming for lager" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22898" CreationDate="2018-05-11T08:52:30.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK first to answer your question. If you keep your primed bottled lager at 5C it will take a long time to carbonate up, if you let it sit at room temp for a week, then chill it should be ready in about 8 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, 1012 to 1020 for priming it would suggest you used about 20g/l of priming sugar, that seems a bit on the high side to me. I would usually prime with more like 10g/l, you may be ricking bottle bomb with that much primiing sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at these webpages for a better understanding of priming:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/resource/carbonation-priming-chart/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/resource/carbonation-priming-chart/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brsquared.org/wine/CalcInfo/HydSugAl.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.brsquared.org/wine/CalcInfo/HydSugAl.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, I would never pitch a lager yeast at 25C, that is a bit high for many lager yeasts and you risk stressing your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would pitch a lager yeast &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.whitelabs.com/faq/brewing/what-temperature-should-i-pitch-lager-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;more around 20C(A)&lt;/a&gt; for a day then lower by ~5C per 12 hours until your desired fermenting temp is reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of your 5C fermentation period, you will probably want to incorporate a &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/what-is-different-for-brewing-lager-beer/yeast-starters-and-diacetyl-rests&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diacetyl Rest&lt;/a&gt;. Take the FV out of your fridge and allow it to warm to 18C for 2 days; do this when you are about 2 points above FG. Then chill it quickly to 5C, let the beer drop clear, rack/prime/bottle/keg as you wish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-05-11T13:25:29.470" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T13:25:29.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22898" CreationDate="2018-05-11T12:24:06.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lagers should be pitched at the strains lowest recommended temperature.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If lager yeast is allowed a warm growth phase that will produce some bad esters. Also the new cells will be prone to favor the temperature they budded in, causing much of them to go dormant earlier than usual if temperature is reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a cold growth phase lagers can be increased in temperature a couple degrees a day up to 68°F then held there for the Diacetyl Rest. Once done then can be primed and bottled for conditioning at room temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This really applies to both ale and lager yeasts. &lt;strong&gt;Start low and go warmer if needed&lt;/strong&gt;. Doing the reverse is bad for the yeast and the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going 8 points above TG for priming is asking for trouble if not in Champaign bottles. It's almost twice what it should be, and could lead to bottle bombs or volcano beers if the bottles hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T12:24:06.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14554" CreationDate="2018-05-12T14:40:16.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had accidently reversed my gas/liquid posts on my corny keg when I installed my co2 post onto my dip tube without realizing it.  I then pressurized my beer at 18 psi for 3 days.  After 3 days I went to check the carbonation levels and realized I had my posts reversed.  After switching them back to the normal configuration I bumped my co2 pressure down to a serving pressure, about 6 psi. My beer turned out great with perfect carbonation results and I didn't have any issues with beer forcing its way into my gas line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16314" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T14:40:16.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-12T15:19:58.613" Score="4" ViewCount="1016" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an equation that corrects specific gravity while considering temperature effect in Celsius, which does not presupposes a set hydrometer calibration temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A direct relation, not tables or something static. And if there is one, where would you find it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar question was asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/4137/16315&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt;, but the answers are all in Fahrenheit or assume a 15 C (59 f) calibration temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16315" LastEditorUserId="16315" LastEditDate="2018-05-12T15:28:16.797" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T10:13:01.013" Title="Correct temperature effect on Specific gravity" Tags="|temperature|specific-gravity|calculations|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22803" CreationDate="2018-05-12T16:00:05.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This should work. Found at Wal-Mart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXka0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXka0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T16:00:05.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22903" CreationDate="2018-05-12T17:09:52.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick but not very helpful answer, I am pretty sure there is some sort of equation that can be used for this I am not sure where I have seen it. I am going to do some digging through some book and the interwebs for you and will update here if/when I find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found it, it assumes T is in C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SG(true) = SG(indicated) x [ 1.0 - 0.00025[ T(actual) - T(calibrated) ]]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-05-12T17:23:03.203" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T17:23:03.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22903" CreationDate="2018-05-13T23:44:03.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It actually depends on the hydrometer. They can vary a lot beween makers. Each one has thier own temperature adjustment chart. Because they can have different displacements and scales on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-05-13T23:44:03.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-14T06:31:21.320" Score="4" ViewCount="900" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use neem leaf for substitute of hops? Especially it's difficult to manage hops in our region. I found a lot of health benefit in neem leaf. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16305" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-05-14T08:32:42.270" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T03:23:22.083" Title="Neem leaf instead of hops substitute" Tags="|beer|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22903" CreationDate="2018-05-14T06:41:21.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the hydrometer. Older hydrometers tend to be calibrated at 15C (59F), and more recent ones at 20C (68F). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there has been some attempts to correct for an offset in temperature. Check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&lt;/a&gt; for more details. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I’d guide against measuring at a different than the calibrated or recommended temperature. This is because warm wort might shatter a glass hydrometer causing small metal balls to leak. I assume they are made from lead. Or even worse, it might crack the glass making it hard to discover. Additionally, in my personal experience measuring hot wort generally produce inaccurate readings even when trying compensate for the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastActivityDate="2018-05-14T06:41:21.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22908" CreationDate="2018-05-14T08:31:58.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can substitute any bitter herb for hops if you wish. Also given the fact it has anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties, it will likely protect your brew from biological contamination, as hop alpha acids do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is anti-fungal it may interfere with your yeast. Also, I do not know what off flavours yeast may produce when fermenting in the presence of Neem tea compounds. You may be fine, but experience with mead made from eucalyptus honey makes me consider this as a possible adverse affect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do try this please report back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before hops a wide range of herbs are recorded as being used to bitter/flavour ale/gruit there are a few modern breweries doing this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-05-15T19:21:58.107" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T19:21:58.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22912" CreationDate="2018-05-15T21:20:17.890" Score="2" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a new home brewer. Since Christmas I've brewed 5 beers, all of which have been drinkable. The first I didn't have a hydrometer, the second I accidentally put in twice as much carapils as I was supposed to, but the last three have all given me the same anomaly in that og and fg are much lower than stated in the recipe. I can understand og being lower, and am aware of causes of mash inefficiency, some of which I intend to try and mitigate in future brews. What I don't understand is why the og and fg are off by the same amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example my last brew is a Belgian strong golden ale. OG in the recipe was 1.070, and fg was 1.012. my gravities were 1.060 and 1.003. I would expect, if the amount of fermentables was in proportion, that an OG of 1.060 would give a FG more like 1.010. If for some reason the amount of fermentables was not in proportion (i.e the mash resulted in a lower OG of mostly fermentable sugars) I would expect a watery tasting beer, which they're not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced anything similar or have any ideas what is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used two different hydrometers and have tried to degass samples post fermentation so I don't think these are factors. I'm doing a single step infusion mash in a cooler, which sits at 65c for an hour and maybe loses 1c during that time, followed by 2x batch sparges involving a good stir and 10 mins sitting in ~65c water, then vorlaufing again before running off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastEditorUserId="16288" LastEditDate="2018-05-16T17:06:39.360" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T17:06:39.360" Title="What's going on with these gravities?" Tags="|all-grain|original-gravity|mashing|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22911" CreationDate="2018-05-16T04:09:50.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your mash temp favors beta-amylase which makes a more fermentable wort.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While beta-amylase denatures beginning at 149°F / 65°C it takes a little time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible your thermometers are slightly out of adjustment and you may be further in beta range than realised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a less fermentable wort mash at 154-156°F, this will denature beta-amylase quicker and allow alpha-amylase to convert your starches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As far as a dry beer 1.003 FG, it won't always be watery or even light in mouth feel if there are proteins to augment it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-05-16T04:15:44.530" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T04:15:44.530" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22911" CreationDate="2018-05-16T08:08:47.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought would be to check your efficiencies, if the recipe targets 1.070, usually aimed around 75% efficiency, and you only reach 1.060 (=56%?) than your mash is off. Being a Belgian strong I guess this beer used some sort of sugar adjunct, so keep that in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if your hydrometers are off the measurements are wrong of course. Perhaps ‘calibrate’ it with a sugar solution? Dilute a specific amount of sugar in a specific amount of water to get a pre calculated gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mash temp is fine, heavy Belgians usually tend to aim for a very fermentable wort. How often do you check the temp during the mash, and do you stir it? I’ve heard other brewers have similar results, due to loosing too much heat on the sides of the mash tun and thus parts of the mash basically being too cold. Could be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastEditorUserId="15915" LastEditDate="2018-05-16T08:44:30.767" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T08:44:30.767" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22903" CreationDate="2018-05-16T10:13:01.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cool my wort to around 23 degC before taking a reading. Only takes a few minutes to cool a test tube from 100 degC to 23 degC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T10:13:01.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22896" CreationDate="2018-05-16T23:27:30.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What flavours were you aiming for with your beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheat beers (at least the traditional European-style wheat beer) derive a lot of the beer's flavour from the yeast.  To make these beers typically a brewery would choose a yeast like Safbrew WB-06, or Wyeast 3068, 3333.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While turbo yeast is probably OK for fermenting, it's purpose is to ferment sugar into ethanol (which is due to be distilled later) as fast as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your pitch rate of 100g / ~3 gallons (100g / ~12 litres) is also quite a large amount of yeast (although Turbo Yeast has a significant component of yeast nutrient too).  A typical batch would use around 10g / 20 litres (5 gal) of yeast, unless it was a lager or higher gravity beer, in which case you might go to 20g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So given you pitched maybe 10x the amount of yeast necessary, and it was a yeast bred for fast fermenting, I would guess that after two days the primary fermentation is finished.  It's normal to leave the beer fermenting for some time after primary fermentation is complete, as the yeast is still working.  Part of this phase is the &quot;cleaning up&quot; of fermentation by-products that don't taste so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From comments above, maybe you have already further processed this beer.  But waiting for another week or so might help with the flavour.  Then bottle/keg, and let it condition for a further 2 weeks (or 4 might be better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical recipe for a malt-extract beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50 % light malt extract &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50 % wheat malt extract &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some hops boiled for 60 minutes (e.g.: hallertau, hersbrucker)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. a ~19 litre / 5 gal batch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x 1.5kg can Light Malt Extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x 1.5kg can Wheat Malt Extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20g hops, boiled for 60 minutes (~5% Alpha Acid).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 packet WB-06 yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ferment between 15-22 degrees-C until complete (minimum 1 week, 2 is better).&#xA;(20C ferment temperature is arguably optimal)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-05-16T23:54:52.843" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T23:54:52.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-18T06:07:02.780" Score="3" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you brew say 7kg of sugar in say a 10l fermenter as opposed to a more standard 25l fermenter. I mean technically the sugar will still ferment in the smaller vessel or is that not the case will the yeast be overcome by the high sugar to low water ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words I have I think a 10l-15l fermenter and want to brew up to 7kg of sugar mash on it. Will all the sugar ferment? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16327" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T10:51:25.133" Title="Brewing a 25l batch in a smaller fermenter" Tags="|mash|primary-fermentation|fermenter|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22916" CreationDate="2018-05-18T06:27:10.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I calculate a solution of 10l at a gravity of 1.100 (which is already big), then I get an amount of 8.4 l water with 2.6 kg sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that is already stretching things, because without head space your fermentation vessel will probably overflow from kraüsen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even for a 25 liter vessel it seems limited (but I do not know the amount of kraüsen generated by such yeasts). At 18 l water and 7 kg of sugar, you get a total volume of 22.3 l wort with a gravity of 1.119. This only leaves a head space of 2.5 l.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also stagger your additions, but the alcohol in the smaller vessel will probably exhaust and overpower the yeast at a certain moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further calculation based upon comments&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7 kg of sugar has a volume of 4.46 l, so you could still add 5.54 l of water. I see that the yeast has an alcohol tolerance of 18%. With these parameter you would start with a gravity of 1.260. However, from the calculations found at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alcohol_by_volume#Prediction_of_alcohol_content&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Wikipedia: prediction of alcohol content&quot;&gt;enter link description here&lt;/a&gt; it would seem that this would be enough to get to 35% ABV (calculated two different ways). Since your yeast is tolerant to 18%, you would end up with a mix of alcohol and sugar which you could not further ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, half the amount of sugar in the same amount of water would for certain start to ferment, and with a little luck ferment out completely. Keep your yeasts at a nice temperature of around 22° C, and supply them with a bit of supplements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-05-18T10:51:25.133" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T10:51:25.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-18T10:51:03.517" Score="3" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is for a sugar wash only. I have watched a video on YouTube where they only used water, sugar and turbo yeast, no nutrients were used according to the video. Whereas other guides tell you that you must use nutrients ranging from tomato paste to brewing nutrients. So which is it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16327" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T11:00:04.533" Title="Do you really need yeast/mash nutrients?" Tags="|yeast|sugar|yeast-nutrient|nutrition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22918" CreationDate="2018-05-18T11:00:04.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't reach the website from here, but when I search for &quot;does turbo yeast need nutrients&quot; I get a reference stating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each Turbo Yeast contains a mix of yeast and nutrients, to make 25 L of Wash &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which would imply that this is tuned to the purpose and that you do not need to add any further nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T11:00:04.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-18T18:32:54.157" Score="4" ViewCount="3608" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be a week or till I can get some brewers nutrient is there any food substitute I can use, apples, rice, sweetcorn, apple juice, tomato paste etc? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16327" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T02:45:48.570" Title="Any food alternatives you can use to brewers yeast nutrient?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|brewing|yeast-nutrient|nutrition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-18T21:51:56.773" Score="5" ViewCount="2747" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, apparently if you let tap water sit for a few days the chlorine will evaporate off but how can one safely expose the water to the the air without risk of contamination from airborne particles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16327" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T17:09:55.073" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T17:09:55.073" Title="How do you let water sit until the chlorine vapours off without any contamination?" Tags="|fermentation|sanitation|chloramines|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22920" CreationDate="2018-05-18T22:49:30.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlikely and it will cost a hell of lot more chasing down the ingredients to put together your own yeast nutrients. I have been brewing for 25 year and have never used them. I had problems brewing when I first started but those were rookie mistakes. If you have enough yeast and wort and oxygen, there shouldn't be anything that stops your yeast from fermenting. Having said that, there are instances that I would use them, like super high gravity beers. I did use them in my winery when I had very ripe grapes. I would put pounds of that stuff in my must (I was fermenting multiple tons at a time). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This list is from &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/what-exactly-is-yeast-nutrient/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beer and Brewing magazine&lt;/a&gt;. You can actually buy all this stuff separately but it probably isn't what you wanted to do. Just pitch enough viable yeast and you'll be fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diammonium phosphate (DAP&lt;/strong&gt;) is a water-soluble salt that is often included in plant fertilizer to increase the pH of soil. It also delivers valuable nitrogen and phosphate to yeast cells. Wort is generally rich in nitrogen, but a little supplementation can help high-gravity beers complete fermentation. Phosphates also help ensure smooth fermentation of worts that contain large portions of non-malt adjuncts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Amino acids&lt;/strong&gt; are necessary for creating proteins and for reproduction. Yeasts can actually make most of their own amino acids, but there are a handful, termed essential amino acids, that cells must pull in from the wort they’re in. If wort happens not to have enough for one reason or another, a little boost of yeast nutrient can help keep your yeast cells happy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vitamins and minerals&lt;/strong&gt; of all kinds—biotin, pantothenic acid, calcium, magnesium, potassium, and many others—are necessary for the reactions that create the compounds yeasts need to do their job. They also serve as catalysts in many of the reactions that take place during fermentation, and some even aid in flocculation and cell wall preservation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Zinc&lt;/strong&gt;, which falls under the mineral umbrella is one of the less common essential minerals found naturally in all-malt wort. Zinc plays a vital role in the production of ethanol, which we can all agree is pretty key to the whole beer thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast ghosts, or yeast hulls&lt;/strong&gt;, are basically the water-insoluble skeletons of dead yeast cells, and they’re included in many nutrient formulations, as well as available on their own. Live yeast cells cannibalize these dead cells and feed off the nutrients they contain. Gross, eh?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T22:49:30.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22921" CreationDate="2018-05-19T00:37:42.397" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chlorine you can boil off before use, usually a hard boil for 20 minutes will get rid of Chlorine. Unless your water district uses a binder which is rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chloramine cannot be boiled off and needs to be chemically stripped. Campden tablets do well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-05-19T00:37:42.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-20T07:10:23.120" Score="3" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get that most of homebrewers make large batches and they measure it in gallons, but how do I shrink the recipe measurements if I will ferment just one liter of grape juice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16281" LastActivityDate="2018-05-20T14:34:01.387" Title="How much sugar should be added in 1 L of Grape must?" Tags="|red-wine|measurements|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22924" CreationDate="2018-05-20T12:30:26.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tools like Beersmith ($) or Brewers Friend (Free) allow you to create a standard 5 gallon recipe then scale it up or down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link for brewers friend's calculator:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewers Friend&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16331" LastActivityDate="2018-05-20T12:30:26.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22924" CreationDate="2018-05-20T14:34:01.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scaling is very simple math and works with all ingredients.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if a recipe is for 1 gallon and calls for 4 oz of sugar. &#xA;1 Gallon has 3.79 liters, so 1/3.79=.2638 that's your volume %&#xA;To scale the sugar 4×.2638=1.055 oz sugar for 1 liter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to be so precise, 1oz sugar in this example is close enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-05-20T14:34:01.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22930" CreationDate="2018-05-20T17:58:07.067" Score="6" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common way to calculate ABV (Alcohol By Volume) is through some correlation between Original Gravity (OG) and Final Gravity(FG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to calculate ABV just from the current specific gravity reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example - a week into fermentation you can read an sg of 1.038. Is it possible to deduce the current ABV from this using just a hydrometer and as much fancy math as you can imagine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16315" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T11:14:35.450" Title="ABV from one SG?" Tags="|fermentation|specific-gravity|original-gravity|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22927" CreationDate="2018-05-20T19:12:08.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Actually there is a way to estimate the OG on finished beer&lt;/strong&gt;.  Then calculate ABV normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it needs both a hydrometer reading and a refractometer reading, and some fancy math.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple programs have this formula built in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brewzor Calculator&lt;/strong&gt; for free app Androids.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Beer Smith&lt;/strong&gt; for PC ( possibly in mobile versions IDK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-05-20T19:12:08.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22920" CreationDate="2018-05-21T02:45:48.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I add a tablespoon of dry baking yeast to the boil when I'm preparing a starter. It's cheap (I'm into baking, too, so I buy relatively large cans of baking yeast anyway). Experience indicates it's also sufficient for the purpose. I have also heard of people boiling grape seeds for the nutrient.&#xA;At my LHBS I once bought a &quot;wine yeast nutrient&quot;, which was likely DAP (nothing specific on the package about it), but I stopped using it, as I suspected it gave my beers some metallic flavour.&#xA;Btw yeast nutrient is only good when you add it early. Adding nutrient to a beer that is 50% through fermentation is mostly pointless. Also, when faced with a choice &quot;prepare a bigger starter&quot; vs &quot;add yeast nutrient&quot; (for a big beer), I'd suggest going for the bigger starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T02:45:48.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22927" CreationDate="2018-05-21T10:26:53.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Evil Zymurgist said, you can estimate OG and ABV based on uncorrected refractometer reading and final gravity, more precisely :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formula is the following :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I5c7O.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I5c7O.png&quot; alt=&quot;calculation formula&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Complete explanation can be found in :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moundtop.com/alcohol/Alcohol-via-Refractometer-Hydrometer.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.moundtop.com/alcohol/Alcohol-via-Refractometer-Hydrometer.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which is based on the papers :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rogerson, F. &amp;amp; Symington, C. (2006). A method for the estimation of&#xA;alcohol in fortified wines using hydrometer Baumé and refractometer&#xA;Brix. American Journal of Enology and Viticulture, 57, 486-490.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Son, H.S., Hong, Y.S., Park, W.M., Yu, M.A. &amp;amp; Lee, C.H. (2009). A&#xA;novel approach for estimating sugar and alcohol concentrations in&#xA;wines using refractometer and hydrometer. Journal of Food Science, 74,&#xA;C106- C111.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T11:14:35.450" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22921" CreationDate="2018-05-21T12:35:54.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Letting the water sit to let the chlorine evaporate will not make a difference when it comes time to brew. Once the wort starts to boil, it will kill anything that got in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you don't have to wait overnight for the chlorine to leave, just boil your water for about 20 minutes. If you don't even want to wait that long, just dissolve a campden tablet in your water before you start to use it. This will strip all the chlorine related chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T12:35:54.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-21T12:40:55.107" Score="4" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a newbie one-gallon brewer (done 4 batches as for now). I tried several recipe sources and now I'm trying out the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend&lt;/a&gt;. &#xA;The thing is that most of the recipes are 5+ gallon batches so I'm going to use Scale function which as I understood requires Equipment profile to be properly configured. &#xA;Could someone recommend what the optimal settings should be? Or maybe you could share what do you use for your equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10-quarts wide stainless steel boil kettle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-gallon Igloo cooler mash tun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do sparge/lauter by just pouring out all the stuff on the strainer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simple one-gallon glass fermenter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. I would really appreciate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15560" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T13:50:11.710" Title="Brewer's Friend one gallon equipment profile" Tags="|equipment|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22932" CreationDate="2018-05-21T13:25:34.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The equipment profile is just used for your Efficiency calculations. Mash efficiency and brew house efficiency.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These really have little to do with scaling down a recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only concern would be more rapid boil off with the lesser volume, which can be adjusted with the flame or adding water to correct if you had more than exected evaporation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set your Efficiency to 75-80% for mash, and 90% brew house. You really won't have your numbers until you brew on the system and calculate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mash efficiency&lt;/strong&gt; has more to do with technique than equipment. Equipment that allows a finer crush, grain pressing, minimizing false bottom grain free space will increase mash efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brew house efficiency&lt;/strong&gt; mainly concerns volume loss. You have a simple system so 90-95% is expected. Volume loss is usually wort that's left behind in the wet grain, mash tun, kettle, lines, pumps. Fermentor also plays a roll, some are better at compacting trub giving more end volume of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewers friend combines these efficiencies into one value. For a total Brew house efficiency. Since your system will have little to no volume loss. You can safely just take 10% off your mash efficiency to get your Brew house Efficiency. So if you get 85% mass eff, set the Brew house value to 75%.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/faq/#brewsessions5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/faq/#brewsessions5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-05-21T13:50:11.710" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T13:50:11.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22938" CreationDate="2018-05-21T14:06:15.837" Score="5" ViewCount="16088" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an equation or relation to describe how much sugar is to be added to water to obtain a liquid with a specific gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10545/seeking-formula-for-adding-sugar-disolved-in-water-to-produce-specific-gravity&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; question, for example, it is mentioned that &quot;1 lb in 1 gallon is 1.046&quot; - but is there a known scale? Or is extrapolating from this the only way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus points for metric units, double points for referenced answer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16315" LastEditorUserId="16315" LastEditDate="2018-05-21T14:18:33.027" LastActivityDate="2023-04-15T12:14:51.603" Title="Sugar in water effect on specific gravity?" Tags="|specific-gravity|sugar|measurements|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22934" CreationDate="2018-05-21T15:44:20.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sugar has about 45 ppg.  That's gravity points per pound per gallon.  So, one lb. of sugar in one gal. of water will give you a specific gravity of about 1.045.  That is the known scale.  2 lb. in 1 gal. gives you 1.090, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T15:44:20.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22934" CreationDate="2018-05-22T07:14:36.003" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add up on Denny's answer, the density of a solution of sugar and water is (quasi)linear in the range we use in homebrewing (e.g. between 1 and 1.2). (see graph below [0] where concentration in wt% is equivalent to degree Plato)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x38ZF.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x38ZF.png&quot; alt=&quot;density vs concentration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this graph, you could make a sugar solution with known density by adding sugar into water. E.g. a 5°Plato (5 wt%) solution would roughly be 5g of sugar in 95g of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[0] &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/density-aqueous-solution-organic-sugar-alcohol-concentration-d_1954.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/density-aqueous-solution-organic-sugar-alcohol-concentration-d_1954.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastEditorUserId="15886" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T08:51:46.867" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T08:51:46.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5138" CreationDate="2018-05-22T08:44:22.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pectin can make a major contribute to the methanol levels in cider(hard cider).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Methanol results from the decomposition of pectin into Galactose. If you do not add pectinase and/or pasturise your apple juice before fermentation you can significantly reduce the levels of methanol in the final product. Although it is rarely above 0.2%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an interesting article on the subject: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0960852409013194&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0960852409013194&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can also cause haze as others have suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T08:44:22.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-23T19:50:11.680" Score="6" ViewCount="2234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about bacterial/wild yeast contamination etc.... Or will just washing them under the tap be suffice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also can I use the cores? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16327" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-05-24T13:02:25.300" LastActivityDate="2019-09-14T21:06:24.613" Title="Should I boil apples before using them in a mash?" Tags="|fermentation|cider|mash|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22940" CreationDate="2018-05-24T05:25:24.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you make cider, you do not need to mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As explained by a French cider farmer I visited once, crush your apples and let them turn brown, then press them for juice. Also, try to make a mix of apples, do not only use sweet apples, also try to add sour and bitter apples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T05:25:24.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22942" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-24T05:53:53.377" Score="4" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time,I was wondering if I leave my cider for say 3 weeks instead of the recommended 7-10 days,will this improve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16340" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-05-24T14:05:48.563" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T14:05:48.563" Title="The longer you leave cider" Tags="|fermentation|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22942" CreationDate="2018-05-24T06:16:31.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, cider is conditioned longer than three weeks. Cider can be very sour because of the malic acid contained in it. However, this can (or will) be converted through malolactic fermentation, which transforms the malic acid into lactic acid. This is the reason that traditional French cider is conditioned for a couple of months. Apparently this fermentation can also lead to off-flavors, and letting it condition longer removes them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T06:16:31.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22940" CreationDate="2018-05-24T11:45:27.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I do recommend at least pasteurizing the juice of from fresh pressed apples.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Bring the juice to 160°F for a few minutes, then cool to 65°F before pitching yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiling the cider can be done but this changes the flavor and boils off water increasing sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all cider makers pasteurize or boil. But Not doing so will have other microbes working along side your yeast and doesn't always have good results. While others have amazing results from wild or spontaneous fermentation. It really is a gamble untill you have the skills to insure your pitched culture dominates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it's ok to use the Apple cores if you press the apples. Just 1/4 them and press.&#xA;You shouldn't use the cores if you use a juicer as it may cut or break seeds allowing unwanted chemicals into the juice. (Cyanide) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T11:45:27.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22942" CreationDate="2018-05-24T12:49:52.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on your cider and the yeast, oand/or any other buigs you have in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you malolactate fermentations and cleanup has occured there can still be a number of chemical processes going on that will continue to change the flavour of your cider over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your main question will this improve it, is subjective byt the generally accepted answer is yes it will. But, it depends on what you like and your cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T12:49:52.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22940" CreationDate="2018-05-24T13:01:45.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you are making hard cider you just need to juice the apples then add your choosen yeast to the juice. You don't need to boil or even wash them, but you can. Many traditional ciders are fermented with the yeasts and bacteria found on the skins of the apples with no additional yeasts added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can mash the whole lot up cores/skin and all if you want, I would juice or press them personally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what apples you have but if you only have sweet eating apples I would advise adding some cooled black tea to up the tannin levels or your cider can sometimes lack body. Cider apples are far more bitter than eaters and have far higher levels of tannis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to use them in a beer mash, you should heat them to &gt;70C to ensure that you gelitenise the starches and can extra all their sugars in the grain mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T13:01:45.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-25T09:29:27.773" Score="10" ViewCount="1822" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example has anyone done an experiment where they either didn't wash/sterilise any equipment including the fermenter, spoon, jugs, other etc or at most they just rinsed out the equipment with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so what were the results, did you get an infection, did you culture botulism, did it turn to vinegar or did it just have off flavours OR did it turn out fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning stuff for brewing is a real pain and I do wonder how thorough you really need to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16327" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-05-30T08:21:26.750" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T10:06:39.280" Title="How clean does your equipment really need to be?" Tags="|contamination|cleaning|sterilization|disinfecting|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22948" CreationDate="2018-05-25T10:07:03.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleaning is definitely the least fun part (besides drinking the beer, terrible) about brewing but after a few spoiled batches I too take it almost to the extreme. The pain of dumping a batch and whole day of work does not compare to the bit of extra work of cleaning and sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t think it works that simple, not cleaning a spoon doesn’t automatically mean contamination, but also the other way around, cleaning does not guarantee contamination free. It is all about minimizing risks. If you would conduct such an experiment, one time could be fine but the second time not. Not reliable enough to draw conclusions from in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-05-30T08:21:00.177" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T08:21:00.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22948" CreationDate="2018-05-25T10:08:05.067" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL; DR; You need to clean!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do this for safety, repeatability, and to avoid wasting your effort. I have cleaned poorly before and wasted brews of both wine and beer, since I took a more rigorous approach I have only had 1 contaminated brew in 13 years, and that was using kit and sanitiser that were not my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you are making a wild brew you need to clean down and scrub out all the crap and then sanitize you equipment. You only want to get into your brew what you intend to get in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in breweries in Belgium where they use coolships, they make sure they are clean before introducing the wort, and blowing the air over. They also ensure that the fans are covered with fine mesh to stop flies or leaves etc being blown into the wort. They only want the micro flora and fauna to inoculate their wort, not some residual contamination hiding in a valve or seal or sitting on a fly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you need to do the tedious cleaning our you will get biological contamination, which can lead to a number of problems: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most serious you get some from of mold, which can have mycotoxins, that can kill people.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get acetobacter contamination which will turn your whole brew to vinegar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get wild sacchromyces/other yeast strains which can lad to phenolic or other off flavours&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get lactobacillus which will produce lactic acid in weakly hopped beers, and will alter the sugar consumption profile of you primary sacchromyces strain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can get pediococuus which will turn your beer 'ropey' and will acidify your brew.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enterobacter can contaminate your brews and turn them into vomit smelling horrific messes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are others thing that can get into your beer and produce off flavours but those are the main ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most food poisoning bacteria salmonella, e.coli o157 etc... can not survive in fermenting beer past day 3 the alcohol and pH drop does their job and kill them off. Mycotoxins from a mouldy seal seating or a poorly cleaned valves are the main health danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the other will just give you unintended funk, higher levels of acid, or disgusting ruined beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have had one of these contaminations, if you are using plastic fermenters or soft rubber seals, you probably should bin the kit, or at least let it soak in bleach solution for a few hours to thoroughly sanitize. You can take all your seals and sterilise them in a pressure cooker, for 30 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soft tubing will need to be sanitized as well, Brett in particular is highly tenacious and can contaminate brews weeks later. Or cause over attenuation after bottling causing the dreaded bottle bomb scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in a professional brewery this is taken to a even more extreme level, all vessels, hoses and unions will be cleaned with a combination of caustic and PAA. Then should be routinely checked with a ATP Bioluminescence Meter if a result after cleaning is &gt;30 you have a big problem, it should be &amp;lt;10 RLU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12229" LastEditDate="2018-05-31T10:06:39.280" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T10:06:39.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22948" CreationDate="2018-05-25T11:47:19.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, yes, it is needed.&#xA;When I was starting, in my first year, I lost a lot of batches, I could say 2 from 3 batches were lost due to bad cleaning, I never figured exactly what I was not cleaning good enough, but the result was aways the same, a rotten taste and smell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16346" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-05-25T12:38:46.790" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T12:38:46.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17055" CreationDate="2018-05-25T16:02:27.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are two different questions. I'll add some new information on Methanol since this question was asked a couple of years ago. Generally in western countries where we have access to cultured yeasts, methanol is not a problem. But in many less advanced countries, methanol production is a problem and this new paper suggests that it's do to some wild yeasts that are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Incidences of methanol contamination in traditional beverages are&#xA;  increasing globally and have caused death in many counties including&#xA;  Nigeria, India and Indonesia. It is generally believed that&#xA;  unscrupulous vendors deliberately spike the beverages with methanol in&#xA;  order to increase the alcohol content. This review observed that&#xA;  methanol production in traditional fermented beverages can be linked&#xA;  to the activities of pectinase producing yeast, fungi and bacteria.&#xA;  Microbes producing pectin methyl esterase are able to produce methanol&#xA;  from fruits/juices containing pectin. Under traditional/informal&#xA;  fermentation, alcoholic beverages produced by mixed microbial&#xA;  consortium could probably lead to the production of mixed alcohols&#xA;  containing methanol and other volatile congeners. The study concluded&#xA;  by suggesting that contaminated alcoholic beverages be converted for&#xA;  fuel use rather than out rightly banning the age—long traditional&#xA;  alcohol fermentation. Regulatory limits for methanol in fermented&#xA;  beverages should be strictly enforced. It is also suggested that pure&#xA;  cultures should be used for alcohol fermentation under aseptic&#xA;  conditions as opposed to spontaneous fermentation by mixed&#xA;  contaminating microbes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to the paper &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5028366/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Methanol contamination in traditionally fermented alcoholic beverages: the microbial dimension&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T16:02:27.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-25T21:47:10.273" Score="3" ViewCount="2835" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/SafAle-BE-134_Rev2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spec sheet&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The SafAle™ BE-134 is a Saccharomyces cerevisiae var. diastaticus and is characterized by a particularly high&#xA;  attenuation.&#xA;  This typical yeast strain is recommended for Belgian Saison-style beers. It gives fruity aromas with a slight spicy&#xA;  character (POF+) such as clove notes. This strain will bring highly refreshing and drinkable beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like none of the yeast producers makes claims as to equivalence between their yeast and the alternative producer, but there are some cross reference charts that seem somewhat reliable (and a few 'substitution' charts that aren't as useful).  I was trying to find a reliable reference that contained this particular yeast, but came up empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With today's ability to do genome sequencing and end point polymerase chain reaction (PCR), it would seem that a definitive source would be available, and would contain the equivalency information for BE-134.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2018-05-26T16:07:26.213" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T22:11:29.030" Title="What strain of yeast is Fermentis BE-134?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22954" CreationDate="2018-05-26T10:44:29.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, they are selling diastaticus by itself?! Many breweries are having problems with that strain, there was even a lawsuit from Left Hand against Whitelabs because they sold yeast that also had diastaticus in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.goodbeerhunting.com/sightlines/2017/12/11/its-fairly-widespread-yeast-contamination-in-the-wake-of-left-hands-lawsuit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.goodbeerhunting.com/sightlines/2017/12/11/its-fairly-widespread-yeast-contamination-in-the-wake-of-left-hands-lawsuit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-05-26T10:44:29.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-26T14:37:41.420" Score="4" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was going to try an apple cider up to around 12%. So how much sugar will I get roughly per apple and how much additional sugar should I add. The apples are a small granny smith kind. Currently I have chopped them up and they have been sitting for a few days to brown them. I will then boil them with some brown sugar and a couple of other things before transferring them to a carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16327" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T15:01:26.650" Title="How much sugar to real apple ratio?" Tags="|yeast|cider|first-time-brewer|sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22962" CreationDate="2018-05-26T16:22:40.877" Score="6" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am stil fairly new to homebrewing; on my third batch of real ale now, and I wanted to experiment with adding a few extra things to my brew: some elderflowers, and miscellaneous herbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea was to boil a small handful of these leaves up in a pan, strain it, and pour it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would like some opinion on when the best time in the process would be to throw this stuff in? My guess is that I should wait until it hits the pressure barrel, since I don't want to add any extra sugars etc that could upset the fermentation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I simply wait until it's ready to pour before adding anything extra, at the very last minute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16352" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T09:04:46.880" Title="Adding extra ingredients/flavouring: what stage should I add?" Tags="|flavor|ale|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22954" CreationDate="2018-05-26T17:06:31.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Saccharomyces#Other_Labs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Milk the Funk Wiki&lt;/a&gt;, reporting on &lt;code&gt;BE-134&lt;/code&gt; they once said that &quot;This might be the same strain as WY3711&quot;, but the linkage between BE-134 and WY3711 was removed after I asked the wiki owner's about it.  Unfortunately, there was no other linkage offered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When &lt;code&gt;BE-134&lt;/code&gt; was introduced, there was speculation that since this was a &quot;Belgian Saison&quot; yeast, it might be the same as the &lt;code&gt;Dupont&lt;/code&gt; variety.  I have not seen any indication that this is true, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these yeasts have been determined to be of the &lt;em&gt;diastaticus&lt;/em&gt; variety, but that is quite common among commercially sold yeasts.  For instance, that same wiki confirms that &quot;Belgian Golden&quot; (Duvel) yeasts, such as &lt;code&gt;WLP570&lt;/code&gt; and &quot;Belgian Saison&quot; (Dupont) yeasts, such as &lt;code&gt;WLP565&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;WY3724&lt;/code&gt;, all are of the &lt;em&gt;diastaticus&lt;/em&gt; variety. The &quot;Milk the Funk Wiki&quot; page currently lists 14 yeast strains from White Labs, Wyeast, Lallemand, and Fermentis (those are the brands easily available to me) that are of the &lt;em&gt;diastaticus&lt;/em&gt; variety.  This variety is considered a problem in commercial breweries at low cell count when unintentionally introduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As more information is obtained, I hope to update this answer because the information obtained so far only allows for speculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2018-05-30T22:11:29.030" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T22:11:29.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22961" CreationDate="2018-05-26T17:18:09.160" Score="3" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am still fairly new to homebrewing, and am on my second batch using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wilko.com/beer-making-kits/woodfordes-sundew-real-ale-kit-makes-40-pints/invt/0435887&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this kit&lt;/a&gt;. The instructions given in the kit I don't think are particularly clear. It states that I should add 3.5 litres of boiling water and top up with cold water (up to 23 litres). It then states that it should be kept between 18 and 20 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what temperature is &quot;cold water&quot;? I live in Scotland. The first batch I did was in the winter; tap water is so cold it actually hurts your hand. Compare that with a warm region and you could be talking about a difference of 15 or 20 degrees C. Nonetheless, following these intructions I end up with the brew way up at almost 30 deg C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am wondering is whether these kits are &lt;em&gt;supposed&lt;/em&gt; to be kicked off at a higher temperature and then left to settle down to the ideal 18-20 zone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would far clearer if they replaced their nonsense about ratios of hot vs &quot;cold&quot; water, and simply told you what temperature to aim for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: is the brew supposed to start at a higher temperaure? (to kick start the yeast..?) and if so, what sort of temperature should I aim for, ideally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16352" LastEditorUserId="16352" LastEditDate="2018-05-26T17:29:59.440" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T12:38:00.630" Title="Brewing ale: should fermentation be kicked off at a higher temperature?" Tags="|fermentation|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22960" CreationDate="2018-05-26T19:33:59.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, best is to start off for ale fermentation at 18° C, temperature of the wort, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that the yeast readily adapts to the temperature, and if you would start higher, and the temperature drops, then the fermentation could (would) slow down or stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always try to put my fermenting beer in a closed room that keeps a more or less constant temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-05-26T19:33:59.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22958" CreationDate="2018-05-27T14:17:58.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would add the ingredients in late fermentation.&lt;/strong&gt; When there is plenty of alcohol, minimal co2 blow off, but still active yeast. This will allow the yeast to consume those sugars, dominate the culture and preserve your flavor and aromatics of the adjucts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially if the ingredients have fermentable sugars. Adding more sugars after fermentation has competed will upset the beers balance and possibly cause other issues in conditioning / storage / carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-05-27T14:17:58.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22957" CreationDate="2018-05-27T14:30:51.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When adding sugar to boost a ciders ABV it becomes an Apple Wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apple juice tends to have a SG of 1.035 to 1.040, to hit 12% you need about 1.095 OG and a FG of 1.005 (semi dry)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 5 gallons this would be about 6lb of sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sorry for the vague terms like &quot;about&quot;, but there's a lot of unknowns until you actually press the apples to get a SG and have a final gravity target. &#xA;Cider/Apple wines FG's range from 0.995-1.020 depending on how dry to sweet you want it. Having this will also change the yeast and fermentation process a lot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-05-27T14:30:51.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22958" CreationDate="2018-05-27T16:21:42.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always recommend adding non fermentable flavorings as close to packaging as possible.  This helps prevent that flavor and aroma from getting &quot;blown out&quot; by fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-05-28T15:06:48.710" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T15:06:48.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22968" CreationDate="2018-05-27T22:31:31.810" Score="4" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi typically use liquid and dried malt extracts and add hops. For the first time i am also going to steep some grains. I am making 23l english best bitter and have bought all the standard ingrdients for that style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is i don't have an exact recipe and have no idea on typical ratio of grain to water when steeping (will use large stewing pot). I am just looking for rough guidance, this brew is experimental anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kg/litre or lbs/gal, exact or ranges, gratefully accepted. Hints and tips also welcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16353" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T04:06:16.193" Title="Typical Steeping Quantity" Tags="|extract-plus-grains|specialty-grains|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22948" CreationDate="2018-05-28T00:56:40.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trouble with questions like this is in our litigious world if anyone says don't clean and you poison yourself on a home brew and you live in the US you may believe you have the right to sue!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I won't answer your question, i will say what i do, not as advice to you, but because i like typing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am lazy. I do homebrewing from kits but do mess around with and add hops to the bucket, and am about to start messing around with steeping grains and adding that to the bucket as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion brewing advice, which may be different to brewing reality, goes way over the top on cleaning and sterilising EVERYthing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My cleaning routine is based on the principle that all containers the beer has to live in need the contact-with-beer surfaces sterilised shortly after use, and then to be stored away for the next use with the steriliser still in them in a sealed sterile state. Because following this principle means you always have lots of sterile and sterilising water stored, it can be used to clean bits and pieces of equipment next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the main tricks are:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shortly after finishing a bottle of beer, I rinse the bottle thoroughly with very hot tap water, then add some very hot tap water, steriliser (I use level teaspoon of sodium met), cap the bottle with the sterilising water still inside and store it. I can use this sterilising water for cleaning next time I use the bottle during bottling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After bottling a brew, thoroughly rinse and clean the bucket, add 2+&#xA;jugs of boiling water and steriliser (I use 2-3 heaped tablespoons of&#xA;sodium met), put the lid on and shake the bucket around being careful&#xA;not to point the airhole at myself, hot steam gushes out. Put on an&#xA;airlock and store away with the sterilising water still inside. I can&#xA;use this sterilising water for cleaning next time I use the bucket&#xA;for a brew.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been doing this for years and only once got a kind of white mould growing on top of the beer in a bucket, but the beer still tasted good :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16353" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T00:56:40.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22948" CreationDate="2018-05-28T02:48:01.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's like with any other food preparation equipment: your stuff needs to be clean, but don't go too crazy with 100%-germ-free / kill-everything-sanitizer-from-hell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During brewing you boil the wort for 60 to 90 minutes, that takes care of whatever may have gotten into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After boiling you need to be more careful. You want the yeast you pitch to be the strongest culture. It can easily overpower a few wild yeasts that float around in the air, but if you do an open fermentation you may find that the steady supply of wild yeast can overpower the yeast you pitched. Tha's why you ferment in a closed vessel with an airlock, unless you are doing a sour beer anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T02:48:01.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22965" CreationDate="2018-05-28T04:06:16.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grain absorbs approx 1 litre per 1 kg, that's the only hard-and-fast rule, everything else depends on recipe and on what you're trying to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I understand right that your fermentable base is still going to be liquid/dry extract, and you're gonna steep just specialty malts? If so you can steep maybe 1 kg crystal in ~4 litres of 65C water for ~30 minutes (there's no enzymatic activity here, it's just like tea making), then strain and add that liquid to the wort based on extract malt. For more exact proportions refer to recipes appropriate to the style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If by &quot;steeping&quot; you mean actually mashing the base and specialty malt altogether, then the answer is going to be so big that I'd recommend you read some literature on this, like Palmer's &quot;How To Brew&quot; - last time I checked some version of it was available at howtobrew.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T04:06:16.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-28T08:47:43.610" Score="4" ViewCount="510" Body="&lt;p&gt;As title states, the question is can Saison yeast use lactose? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. is it possible to sweeten a Saison with lactose? Or, sweeten it possibly some other way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is about Saison yeasts, dry or liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16356" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-06-01T10:50:00.497" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T10:54:49.717" Title="Can saison yeast use lactose?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|saison|lactose|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22969" CreationDate="2018-05-28T09:46:49.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are yeasts which can ferment lactose, but these are not beer yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since saison yeasts are normally single-strain beer yeasts, they lack the property to ferment lactose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bacteria and other wild yeasts (including brettanomyces) are able to ferment and/or metabolize lactose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T09:46:49.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22969" CreationDate="2018-05-28T17:50:04.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot think of any strain of brewer's yeast that will take on lactose, but as mentioned different fermentations like sours and lambics can work with lactose and its derivatives. The fact that yeast can barely digest lactose is how people get milky flavors for things like cream stouts. The milk sugar just hangs around for flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16358" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T17:50:04.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22842" CreationDate="2018-05-29T18:50:44.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned this is a huge topic.  While most brewers (or homebrewers at least) seem to not worry about it much, some do exactly what you're describing to build water with a desired mineral content for each beer they make.  Adding sodium chloride, calcium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, and other salts to reverse osmosis water allows brewers to build exactly the water profile they want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many cases, though, brewers are looking for ion concentrations that will aid with mashing and fermentation as well as augment the final flavor of the beer, often trying to match historical water profiles.  For your purposes you may want something different; it's hard to say.  However, with some research you should be able determine what water profile you want and what amounts of which salts will get you there.  You can buy the necessary salts at a local homebrew shop and while there you may also be able get tips on how to go about the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T18:50:44.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22842" CreationDate="2018-05-30T08:36:59.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to keep the answer brewing focused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of salts you can add to get the desired mineral profile you are looking for the most common being added at 1g/USGal :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calcium Carbonate &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&#xA;CaCO3 =&gt; Ca+2(105ppm)  + CO3-2 (158ppm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calcium Sulphate &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&#xA;CaSO4 =&gt; Ca+2(61.5ppm) + SO4-2 (147.4 ppm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calcium Chloride &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&#xA;CaCl2 &amp;nbsp;=&gt; Ca+2(72 ppm)&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; + 2Cl- (127ppm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magnesium Sulphate MgSO4 =&gt; Mg+2 (26 ppm) + SO4-2 (103 ppm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sodium BiCarbonate NaHCO3 =&gt; Na+1 (75 ppm) + HCO3- (191 ppm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adapted from www.howtobrew.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/brewing-water-target-profiles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Balanced Profile&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ion Profile in ppm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ca2+    Mg2+    Na+     Cl-     SO42-   HCO3-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;80 &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;5    &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;25    &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;75    &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;80    &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;100&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-02-17T19:02:37.673" LastActivityDate="2019-02-17T19:02:37.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22969" CreationDate="2018-05-30T08:44:06.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saison yeasts do not metabolise lactose, therefore it can be used to sweeten your Saisons if you wish to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lactose is not fermentable by Saccharomyces brewers yeasts, there are some yeast strains that can work their magic on lactose or galactose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some strains of Brett can ferment out lactose others cannot. Here is a table from Gilliland 1961:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k20nq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k20nq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-06-01T10:54:49.717" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T10:54:49.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22958" CreationDate="2018-05-30T09:04:46.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This as always depends on what you are adding. For elder flowers I would add these at the end of the boil/flame out like I would with my final hop addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding other herbs, this would depend on the herb, but most bitter herbs I would add a few min from the end of the boil to extract thier oils, more delicate herbs I would add as you would dry hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are adding fruits or any other flavours which contain sugars, then I would add these immediately after your kraussen has dropped. ie while the yeast are still pretty active and will be able to chew through the sugars quickly so you don't spend motnhs waiting for the beer to ferment out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T09:04:46.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22316" CreationDate="2018-05-30T10:42:23.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bookeranddax.com/spinzall/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spinzall culinary centrifuge&lt;/a&gt; in continuous mode – fed by a built-in peristaltic pump – could feasibly accomplish this, provided that the compressed volume of gunk in a normal home brewing batch is less than about 500ml (which would fill the open bucket rotor and require a pause to clean it out and re-sterilise). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incorporating normal home brewing clarifying agents like kieselsol/chitosan would increase the clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't speak to oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16362" LastEditorUserId="16362" LastEditDate="2018-05-31T10:01:17.177" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T10:01:17.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18997" CreationDate="2018-05-31T14:24:51.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For anyone else looking for advice on this here it is from my experience. PET bottles are fine for storing beer from 6 months to a year (perhaps even longer) in the right conditions. In my experience I brew and bottle and place the PET bottles in &lt;strong&gt;boxes&lt;/strong&gt; in the garage, the garage ranges from 8 degrees C (I am in the UK) in the Winter to 25 degrees C in the Summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently consuming a cider that I finished brewing in May of 2017 and it tastes great in May 2018, these were racked into PET bottles. As previously mentioned store them upright so that the sediment stays at the bottom of the bottle post secondary fermentation. This allows you to pour your brew out pretty much clean of the sediment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also find that if you refrigerate your beer a few days before consuming then it will help any secondary fermentation sediment to stick firmly to the bottom of the PET bottles but it really depends on the initial brewing kit you have used and the type of brew you have been making as to how loose the sediment will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16365" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T14:24:51.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22980" CreationDate="2018-06-03T21:18:01.517" Score="3" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often come across guides on detecting off-flavors. But I never seen a guide on how to how to identify flavor caused by poorly aged beer, though I’ve come across plenty of home brews past it’s prime. Is there a general rule on flavors appearing late? Certain off-flavors to be on the lookout for? It’s definately the case that home brews in most cases age worse than pasteurized store-bought beer, in my experience (especially for low gravity beers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T12:28:22.077" Title="How do old homebrews taste like?" Tags="|beer|ale|spoilage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22979" CreationDate="2018-06-03T23:33:11.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most usual suspect is oxidation, which manifests in cardboard-like flavour or cooking sherry flavour. Lack of hop flavour/aroma in a beer which is supposed to be hoppy can also be caused by age. A lambic-style homebrew may get vinegary with age, if packaged and stored improperly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-06-03T23:33:11.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22979" CreationDate="2018-06-04T10:36:10.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not only homebrew! I needed some swing top bottles, and obtained a crate of empty bottles from the liquor store. But part of them was not empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those were Floreffe Tripel bottles, still sealed, but the expiration date was March 2018. Not too far out one would say, but what I smelled and tasted reminded me more of port wine. But a little bit too funky to be nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T10:36:10.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22979" CreationDate="2018-06-04T13:49:10.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All beer changes with age.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Delicate intangibles of hops and malts are first to fade away. Many styles are best fresh. Kolsch, Pils and anything hop forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens in aging is these flavors and aromas fade and meld into the whole of the beer. Not always a bad thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as worse case for homebrew. It would be infections or brewing defects that become more apparent with age because as fresh thier flavors were masked. &lt;strong&gt;Diacetyl, DMS&lt;/strong&gt; being the most common. &lt;strong&gt;Acetobacter&lt;/strong&gt; is worse case turning a beer to vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mishandling, poor bottling and storage are other issues that will creep up with age. &lt;strong&gt;Oxydation, light struck&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warm storage will accelerate almost all of the issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Aging can help many styles and brewing defects&lt;/em&gt;. Fusel alcohols, overly bitter from hops and wood, funks from bacterial fermentations (sours, bretts), astringency from wood (not tannins). All of these will change and usually reduce with age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-06-05T12:28:22.077" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T12:28:22.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22984" CreationDate="2018-06-04T16:11:46.813" Score="4" ViewCount="638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a 2 up 2 down house, with no cellar, quite draughty windows, and electric storage heaters (these turn on at midnight and begin to &quot;store&quot; heat which in theory is then released through the following day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the middle of the house between the two downstairs rooms is a staircase, which has a larder/cupboard underneath. Temperature in here is probably a fairly stable 18°C in winter / 20°C in summer, probably the most stable temperature, but higher than the alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two timber outbuildings – a shed and a summer house – in which the temperatures can fluctuate throughout the day by 10°C, from e.g. 15°C-25°C in summer and e.g. 5°C-15°C in winter (though there will be periods that exceed these ranges).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bottled all my beers so far, with fermentation and carbonation happening in the house, before being moved to the shed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to storing beer in bottles, what effects will these temperature fluctuations have on the ageing/conditioning of beer? And is it better to store at a steady but higher temperature, or a lower but fluctuating temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-06-04T17:54:42.223" LastActivityDate="2018-06-22T20:13:36.160" Title="I don't have a cellar. How should I store my beer?" Tags="|temperature|bottle-conditioning|storage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22983" CreationDate="2018-06-04T17:51:42.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The colder place the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher temperature will age your beer prematurely, shortening its lifespan.  Depending on the style of beer it might be fine to age it a little, but a few  styles a better when drank fresh/young.  25°C is too hot the keep the beer for long a period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, your beer might be at its best for one month if stored at 25°C as opposed to 3 months if stored at 15°C. (I did not calculate, it is just to give you an idea).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your position, I would store it under your staircase during summer, and only move it to the shed in winter if needed (if stored for more than one month).  But it all depends on how long the beer will be stored and what style of beer it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T17:51:42.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22986" CreationDate="2018-06-05T07:27:52.680" Score="4" ViewCount="1786" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making my first wine ever out of slightly tart hand picked cherries.&#xA;It is currently undergoing open primary fermentation in a large, covered container.&#xA;In about a week I should be transferring it to a 20l demijohn with airlock if I was to continue the planned fermentation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am considering a Pet-Nat sparkling wine as the end result, and I would like to avoid a couple of problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excess sediment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessively high bottle pressure, as I am uncertain about the bottle tolerances I can get locally&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that perhaps I could compromise by aiming for a lightly sparkling wine by allowing the closed fermentation to take place in the glass container for a while and also maybe racking it, to allow some clarification and time for sediments to settle, before transferring the wine to capped sekt bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this approach make sense? If so, how should I determine when to transfer into bottles to get a light frizzante at the latest possible time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16370" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T17:24:06.270" Title="Determining bottling time to get a lightly sparkling Pet-Nat?" Tags="|bottling|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22985" CreationDate="2018-06-05T12:52:07.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to make a PÉT-NAT is to bottle right at the end of fermentation, but you cannot avoid the sediment. Isn't the sediment part of the allure of PÉT-NAT because it's so a la natural? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you determine this? It's really hard because you simply don't know how the far the remaining yeast will ferment and how much residual sugar you might end up with. I've heard horror stories about bottle bombs and funky flavors. I've never made one on purpose, but I once had a whole pallet of off dry rose go off on me which we could now call PÉT-NAT (probably could've gotten $30 a bottle). It was due to filter failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I would do. When the residual sugar gets down around 10 g/l then bottle it and try to be careful not to suck up too much sediment and hope for the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a reason they don't make PÉT-NAT in Champagne anymore, it's too unpredictable. Personally, I would make it in a Cremant style using Méthode Champenoise but going light on the triage addition and at dosage you can change the sweetness level if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-06-05T17:24:06.270" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T17:24:06.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22991" CreationDate="2018-06-06T11:46:06.263" Score="5" ViewCount="4245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to improve my understanding of pitching rates, and I'm struggling with some apparent inconsistencies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An often used starting rule is to pitch about 750,000 cells per milliliter per degree Plato for ales, and twice that much for lagers. So for an example batch of 5 gallons (20 liters) of wort at 10&amp;deg;P (OG = 1.040) you'd need about 150 billion cells for an ale and about 300 billion for a lager, in order to get a consistent and reliable fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common wisdom also has it that you usually don't need to make a yeast starter when pitching dry yeast into a medium-gravity wort. Practice bears this out: many home brewers (including your's truly) simply chuck one packet of Fermentis or Lallemand/Danstar dry yeast into a 5 or 6 gallon batch. Most of the time we don't even bother pre-hydrating dry yeast if the OG is less than 1.050 or so. Let alone making a yeast starter, because in practice you simply don't need to. Just add one packet of dry yeast to 5-6 gallons of wort, and you'll be fine. And indeed this has always worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common wisdom also states that manufacturers of dried yeast pack tons of cells in their products so that after two years of storage there will still be enough viable yeast cells left to do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at US-05 as an example (although the figures work out to pretty much the same for all the other popular dried yeasts), Fermentis specifies that it contains at least 6 billion cells per gram of dried yeast when packed, which means that for a standard 11.5 gram packet of US-05 we're looking at about 69 billion cells per packet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentis' datasheet recommends pitching 50-80 grams of US-05 into a hectoliter. At the specified 6 billion cells per gram, this works out to not pitching the recommended 150 billion cells in the above  example batch of wort, but only 60-96 billion cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions on the packet are even worse: there it says that one 11.5 gr. packet can be used for 20-30 liters (5-7.5 gal) which works out to a pitching rate as low as 230,000 cells / ml / P rather than the recommended 750,000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's even ignoring those common, real world cases where the OG is higher than 1.040 and/or when the yeast approaches its 'best before' date.  From what I understand the loss in viability of properly stored dried yeast over two years should not exceed 10% or so, yet it is still a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So. On the one hand, common wisdom and real world experience tells us that one packet of dried yeast into a 5 gallon batch of wort up to an OG of 1.050 or so works fine. On the other hand, doing the math and checking that against the popular &quot;750.000 cells / ml. / &amp;deg;P&quot; rule states that this shouldn't be enough by half at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T10:15:13.330" Title="Number of cells in a packet of dried yeast" Tags="|yeast|pitching-rate|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22987" CreationDate="2018-06-06T13:50:51.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The .75m / ml / °Plato for ales x2 for lagers, George Fix conclusion. Is recommended for pro brewers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large volume brewing has its own challenges. Volume mass pressures etc. But mainly if a batch goes sideways you may be out $1000's. So underpitching is a cheap problem to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homebrewing. The .35m / ml / up to 1.040 add .35m for each +0.020 gravity Guide. (x2 for lagers) Is trying to make a blanket rule to fit everything. Mainly to keep hobby costs low and prevent over pitching.&#xA;Over pitching? Yeah, if a yeast maker advertises ester profiles that you get from a yeast customers expect it. If it's over pitched those esters will be reduced significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As a homebrewer you need to look at the &quot;rules&quot; as a saftey net for the novice. Learn about your yeasts you like and learn how to manipulate them to do what you want.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-06-06T13:55:54.687" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T13:55:54.687" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22993" CreationDate="2018-06-06T17:27:55.083" Score="7" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.winning-homebrew.com/esters-in-beer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;read&lt;/a&gt; in most publications, ester production tends to increase at lower pitching rates. It's not a linear relationship by any stretch of the imagination; in fact there seems to be some sort of a U-curve at work here but, generally and broadly speaking, a lower pitching rate (even to the point of judicious underpitching) tends to produce higher levels of fruity esters, while overpitching tends to lead to a &quot;cleaner&quot; flavour profile with lower levels of fruity esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course the pitching rate is only one factor here; the yeast's genetic make-up, wort composition and fermentation temperature all play large roles in ester production as well. But let's treat these as constants for now.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rationale behind a higher ester production at lower pitching rates appears to be that the enzymes that produce these esters during fermentation (not during the yeast growth phase as some home brewers mistakenly believe) are located in the yeast's cell walls, and that more yeast growth leads to more cell wall biomass and therefore more esterification enzymes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: what is the difference between cells resulting from more growth as a result of a low pitching rate, and cells that have been pitched at a high pitching rate, in terms of ester production?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastEditorUserId="15057" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T07:41:00.700" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T17:28:11.783" Title="Pitching rates and ester formation" Tags="|yeast|pitching-rate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22987" CreationDate="2018-06-06T17:36:08.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this should be a comment, but it was too long....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what Clayton Cone, head scientist at Lallemand and inventor of Fermaid K, has to say....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ester and other flavor component production or synthesis is a complex&#xA;subject because there are so many variables taking place at the same time.&#xA;   You are right, ester production is related to yeast growth but not in the&#xA;way you might think. The key element to yeast growth and ester production is&#xA;acyl Co-A. It is necessary for both yeast growth and ester production.  When&#xA;it is busy with yeast growth, during the early part of the fermentation, it&#xA;is not available for ester production.  Ester production is directly related&#xA;to biomass production. Everything that increases biomass production&#xA;(intensive aeration, sufficient amount of unsaturated fatty acids,&#xA;stirring) decreases ester production. The more biomass that is produced the&#xA;more Co-enzyme A is used and therefore not available for ester production.&#xA;Anything that inhibits or slows down yeast growth usually causes an increase&#xA;in ester production: low nutrient, low O2.  It has been noted that a drop in&#xA;available O2 from 8 ppm down to 3 ppm can cause a four fold increase in&#xA;esters.&#xA;   Stirring in normal gravity decreases ester production. Stirring in high&#xA;gravity increases ester production. CO2 pressure in early fermentation&#xA;decreases ester production.  Taller fermenters produce less esters than&#xA;short fermenters. High temperature early in fermentation decreases ester&#xA;production.  High temperature later in fermentation increases ester&#xA;production. Low pitching rate can result in less esters.&#xA;   There are other flavor components such as higher alcohol that have there&#xA;own&#xA;set of variables. Stirring increases production of higher alcohols.  CO2&#xA;pressure does not effect the production of alcohol. Amino acid levels in the&#xA;wort effect the production of higher alcohols.  Most of the higher alcohol&#xA;is produced during the growth phase (exponential phase) of the yeast.&#xA;   I am sure that there are many other variables.  I am also sure that there&#xA;are beer makers that have experienced the very opposite with each of the&#xA;variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pitching rates depend on several factors:&#xA;   (1) The speed in which you wish the fermentation to take place.  Some&#xA;professional brew master are in more of a hurry than others; desired beer&#xA;style, shortage of fermenter space.  Pitching rates would vary as a means to&#xA;increase or decrease the total fermentation time. 10 X 10/6th cell&#xA;population for normal fermentation rates.  20 X 10/6th or more for a quick&#xA;turn around.&#xA;   (2) Temperature control.  If lack of refrigeration is a problem, the&#xA;fermentation needs to be spread out over a longer period  by pitching with&#xA;less yeast.&#xA;   (3) Health of the pitching yeast. If the pitching yeast has not been&#xA;stored&#xA;under ideal conditions (4C for less than one week) then larger pitching rate&#xA;must be done to compensate for the deteriorate of the yeast.  Increased&#xA;pitching rates has its limits in trying to compensate for poor storage&#xA;conditions.&#xA;   (4) When all other variables are under control you can use variations in&#xA;pitching rates to achieve certain flavor profile that are of interest to&#xA;you.&#xA;   Conventional wisdom regarding pitching rate can lead to problems.  During&#xA;each fermentation cycle the yeast will increase in size about three times,&#xA;so if you use all the yeast from the previous batch you will soon be&#xA;pitching with a huge amount of yeast.  Professional brewers usually re-pitch&#xA;with about 25% of the yeast from the previous batch.&#xA;   Proper handling of the yeast during storage (4C and &amp;lt;7 days) will&#xA;minimize&#xA;any problem with long lag phase. Start with a fresh culture of yeast after&#xA;about five recycles for bacteria control and or after 10 - 15 cycles for&#xA;genetic drift purposes.&#xA;   There are many who will say that they are proud of the fact that they&#xA;have&#xA;used the same yeast after over 100 cycles.  More power to them. I wish that&#xA;I could explain their luck. Good practices suggest frequent renewal with a&#xA;fresh culture is a good policy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T17:36:08.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22987" CreationDate="2018-06-07T10:15:13.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK. Apart from the (interesting but essentially off-topic) discussion about ester formation as a function of pitching rates, I have since learned the the main cause of my confusion as addressed in the original question stems from the fact (and there is no gentle way to say this) that the Fermentis data sheets are mostly rubbish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Independent cell counting (Van Den Berg S, Van Landschoot A. Practical use of dried yeasts in the brewing industry. CEREVISIA. 2003) shows that the minimum of 6 billion cells per gram may be a guaranteed minimum but has little to do with actual cell counts. Van den Berg and van Landschoot found 8 to 18 billion cells per gram in various fermentis yeasts, and MrMalty even  puts it at 20 billion cells per gram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which makes a lot more sense. So my confusion stemmed not from the yeast but from the misleading data sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T10:15:13.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22960" CreationDate="2018-06-07T15:05:51.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Early in the fermentation (especially with ale yeasts) diacetyl is produced. Later in the fermentation this is, to a certain extent, removed again (the yeast reabsorbs it through a process known as diacetyl uptake). Diacetyl is known for a buttery flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both diacetyl production and diacetyl uptake are increased by higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that if you start the fermentation at a higher temperature and finish at a lower temperature, diacetyl production is increased but diacetyl uptake is decreased, resulting in more diacetyl (buttery flavours) in the beer. Starting low and ending high results in low diacetyl levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a staple of lager brewing, where the fermentation ends with a &quot;diacetyl rest&quot; at a slightly elevated temperature to remove as much diacetyl as possible, since noticeable diacetyl levels in lagers are considered a defect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-06-08T12:38:00.630" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T12:38:00.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22989" CreationDate="2018-06-07T15:22:00.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cells are generally not different, it's how they behave is what is significantly different. Yeast have phases they follow when conditions are met they move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast like all organisms only want to reproduce. This is all they do. Prepare for and reproduce until they can't due to conditions. Then lay in wait until they can reproduce again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some basics:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Yeast reproduce by cell division budding. 1 Cell becomes 2 but the mother cell remains the same size feeding and growing the daughter until it releases. Sugar is the metabolic fuel the Cell needs to do this. Cell size, solution enviroment and colony size appears to be the division triggers. These new cells then take in chemicals and expel waste (eat and shit) to grow in size until they are ready to divide. The mother cell also continues to feed and may be ready to divide again before it's last daughter will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New and old cell differences.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Bud Scars. When a cell divides a scar is formed at the separation point. These scars on the cell wall don't appear to have pathways like the rest of the healthy wall. So the more times a cell has divided the less viable surface area the cell wall has to take in chemicals. So they will do less work for a brewer compared to a new cell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;*3 phases&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Lag, Exponential Growth, Stationary Growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These phases need to be viewed as a whole colony average. As each individual cell is just doing what it can to reproduce based on its environment, and not all cells are in the same state of reproduction. As the environment changes we see these phases manifest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Row, Row, Row your boat RRRYB&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Round_(music)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Round_(music)&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; This is a terrible analogy and may not translate well to other culters, but RRRYB is sung by a crowd with different groups starting at different times to make a perpetual canon but then sync up in catches.... Picture a colony of yeast as RRRYB but there's a finite amount of words (nutrients,o2, sugars etc) each new cell starts to sing at different times. These &quot;catches&quot; are the phases we see. Songs over once out of &quot;words&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;colony density&lt;/strong&gt; flocullation is when cells stick together due to electrical charges. When a cell has a few other cells stuck to it, it's speculated that this triggers a life cycle phase for the cell to go dormant. Much like locus only swarm when the colony gets too big or dense, the the trigger is repeated contact from other locus. Its survival trigger, food will run out quickly so move on. With yeast they can't move on, so they wait, until they have oxygen or sugar again. Production of co2 helps physically separate cells giving the cell buoyancy, when sugar is limited co2 isn't produced and flocculation isn't defeated anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Esters&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;When a cell is budding without enough oxygen, is when esters are produced. New cells birthed in a deprived environment are weaker, these cells have been observed at producing more esters than healthy cells as they bud thier daughters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The difference in colony is how many cells you have of a specific age. Older cells having stronger cell walls but more bud scars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ester control is all about how much yeast, oxygen, nutrients, sugar there is. &#xA;Manipulate esters by controling the oxygen free window of time before flocculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T15:22:00.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-07T20:58:10.743" Score="4" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on brewing a dead pony club clone, however I don't want to do the full 25L I'd rather do 10L or half it. So if I just half everything on the recipe e.g instead of 2.79kg of pale malt I used 1.4kg and so on with the rest of the malts, hops and yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this be the right way to go about halving it?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thanks in advance! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16376" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-06-08T11:51:30.070" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T11:51:30.070" Title="Newbie... Question on halving a recipe" Tags="|beer|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22994" CreationDate="2018-06-07T21:26:56.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can do that. I'm a newbie too and have been doing this myself, because I can only boil enough for a 10L brew. A couple of bits of advice I would offer are firstly that the dried yeast packs have enough yeast to do 20+ L, so you'll end up with lots of half packets, which keep ok in a ziplock bag the fridge, and secondly don't push the envelope with regards to the available space in your fermentation vessel - leave yourself a bit of head space otherwise any kind of vigorous fermentation will result in yeasty beer bubbling up out of the airlock and going everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T21:26:56.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22997" CreationDate="2018-06-08T06:15:25.737" Score="4" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made ~30 batches of beer during last winter and ~7% ABV beer had FG of 1.010 to 1.020. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in the last month the weather got warmer and my beer FG has dropped to below 1.010 to almost 1.000. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the meter's results with flat Coca Cola and other meter and the results tell that the meter is fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast varieties(mostly US-05, T-58 and M54[Cali lager]) are same as in winter and primary fermentation temperatures are same. Sample temperature is almost the same as in winter so it won't explain this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause of such huge drop in FG? It could be contamination, but there aren't any off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16356" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-06-08T12:35:09.390" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T00:57:39.673" Title="Beer attenuation too high" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22996" CreationDate="2018-06-08T13:12:43.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things will do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lower mash temp&lt;/strong&gt;. Calibrate your mash temp gauge. You may be unintentionally favoring beta-amylase in your mash. Especially if you mash within a couple degrees of 149°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Holding temp mash better&lt;/strong&gt; in warmer conditions you may be holding temp better and converting more starches. If you mash around 152° but normally while cooler your mash drops below the ideal range for alpha-amylase, and fall into beta ranges you would have a less fermentable wort in your old batches. Because the beta-amylase would have been denatured at the higher temp. You should do an iodine test to make sure saccrafication is done, rather than relying on a timer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lager yeast contamination&lt;/strong&gt; your brewhouse may be haboring some lager yeast. Lager yeast will consume maltotriose drying out beers more than an ale strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PH change&lt;/strong&gt; of you use municipal water the PH may have changed from your norm. Making better conditions in the mash and getting more enzyme action. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warmer fermentation&lt;/strong&gt; will attenuate better even if primary temp is the same as the past but allowed to be warmer in final stages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wild or Brett contamination&lt;/strong&gt; these strains will even eat sugars from wood. But are pretty easy to identify as they will change the beer flavor significantly, but worth mentioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hydrometer failure&lt;/strong&gt; you should test the meter using distilled water. It should read 1.000. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-06-08T13:33:23.083" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T13:33:23.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-08T20:21:16.277" Score="2" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following grains have been mixed together: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 Lb. Maris Otter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 oz. Vienna&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 oz. Carapils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 oz. Munich&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 oz. Crystal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I mash these together @ 150°F for about 45 minutes then increase the temperature up and let them steep at 165°F or so to gain a higher conversion in the specialty grains? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will then be brewed with X lbs. of extract. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13460" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-06-08T20:39:46.897" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T05:00:50.390" Title="Mashing together" Tags="|temperature|mashing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22999" CreationDate="2018-06-08T20:48:52.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are referring is called multi step mashing or multi rest mashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many good article about this :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2013/02/08/multi-vs-single-step-mashing-for-home-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beersmith&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/the-methods-of-mashing/multi-rest-mashing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to brew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3157/what-is-the-basic-reason-for-step-mashing&quot;&gt;stackexchange Reason for step mashing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to answer your question, yes you can do it.  Should you?  Take a look at #3 for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T20:48:52.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22999" CreationDate="2018-06-09T04:55:26.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will get full conversion at 150°F. If it will within 45 minutes depends on a lot of other conditions. Mainly pH and water grist ratio. Just do an iodine test to know when it actually done. More time and even a very troubled mash will stil complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing to 165°F will denature your enzymes and saccrafication will stop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Specialty Grains&quot; usually refers to roasted or Carmel grains. Which have already had thier starches converted in the malting process. Raising to 165 for thier sake will do nothing of benifiet. Their sugars will extract just fine at 150.&#xA;This is reference to your carapils and Crystal malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-06-09T05:00:50.390" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T05:00:50.390" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-10T10:56:24.840" Score="2" ViewCount="446" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast is Alcotec 24 hour pure original turbo yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to try a sugar wash, so just granulated sugar, water and this yeast(which has added nutrients).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the yeast instructions say ideal temps are between 17 and 24 degrees C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am in Scotland and I am going to guess the temp of still water will be around 11-14deg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a couple of degrees can be obtained in the actual fermenting process but will my lower ambient temps compared to the recommend temps basically kill my ferment or will it just be a bit slower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16327" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T13:13:43.873" Title="Will it be OK to ferment at a lower ambient temp than yeast recommends?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|fermentation-temperature|sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23002" CreationDate="2018-06-10T15:24:44.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'll be ok if 11°c is your bottom end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May be a little slower is all. This turbo yeast is a huge amount of yeast if you use the whole pack in 20L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These distillers yeasts are pretty resilient. I've even had Super High Gravity Ale yeast from white labs, refuse to stop in 5000ml starter in 38°F fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-10T15:24:44.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22996" CreationDate="2018-06-11T00:57:39.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/22997/13715&quot;&gt;Evil Zymurgists&lt;/a&gt;'s suggestions are excellent. From recent personal experience in my homebrewery but also with other local homebrewers and professional brewers, I would add the possibility a diastaticus infection. There is quite some debate on this with lots of information coming to light from different sources such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.whitelabs.com/sites/default/files/Saccharomyces%20cerevisiae%20var.%20diastaticus%20FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;White Labs&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Saccharomyces#Saccharomyces_cerevisiae_var._diastaticus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTF&lt;/a&gt; and even &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mbaa.com/publications/tq/tqPastIssues/2017/Pages/TQ-54-4-1130-01.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an MBAA study&lt;/a&gt;. Diastaticus can be acquired not only as a wild yeast but also from regular brewers yeast. A number of Saison yeasts are var. diastaticus (for example Lallemend Belle Saison). If your sanitation isn't absolutely perfect, a little bit of yeast from a previous batch could lead to increased attenuation, as this is a hallmark of diastaticus. If you can exclude the issues brought up by Evil Zymurgist, I would suggest a tougher cleaning regime before the next batch and replacing exchangeable parts (hoses, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T00:57:39.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23006" CreationDate="2018-06-11T13:42:20.243" Score="2" ViewCount="563" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may seem odd that a Homebrewer wants to do this, but my last batch didn't go to plan and then my wife decided to invite our friends round for a BBQ this coming Saturday. I'd prefer to have something on tap even if it is a commercial lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, my question is what are my method options for filling the corny keg with say 5 to 8 litres of commercial lager. Can I start with a 5L party keg for example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a counter pressure bottle filler I made, which might be able to be used in reverse some how? who knows? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping someone here can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;Alex&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I'm really looking for a way to get a small amount of beer into the corny the day before it will all be consumed. So commercial keg is too much and too expensive really, hence this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16192" LastEditorUserId="16192" LastEditDate="2018-06-11T16:14:21.703" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T16:14:21.703" Title="How to fill a Corny with Commercial Beer" Tags="|beer|bottling|corny-keg|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23005" CreationDate="2018-06-11T14:26:37.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This begs the question: Why not just serve out of the commercial keg? You need at least the sanke keg valve anyways.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done this to empty commercial kegs that needed shells returned asap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Whatever you reason here's how.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanatize the corney with a complete fill of sanitizer. Then purge out the sanitizer using c02. This preps the keg for the full with no oxygen exposure to beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connect the sanke beer out to the corney beer out valve. You will have to make this plumbing simply by attaching a black (liquid) ball / pin lock to the sanke valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then attach an open gas ball / pin lock to the gas in port on the corney. So a lock with no tubing, I put some foil over it just to keep stuff from flying into it but is can still release c02 to atmosphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then apply 2-3 psi to the sanke using c02 to transfer the beer. I don't recommend using a hand pump, as this will oxidize the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the transfered beer will need to be recarbed once in the corney. This can be eliminated by using a pressure release valve on the gas out of the sanke. Set the corney release valve to 10 PSI and the sanke to 11-12 PSI. Which transfers using counter pressure and has little to no carb loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T14:26:37.483" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23008" CreationDate="2018-06-11T16:27:52.320" Score="3" ViewCount="1373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently started thinking of getting into make mead and decided on a nice 15% to start.  I decided to oversweeten the batch because I don't want a real dry mead. I want to add berries to the mead for a nice fruity flavour.  So I suppose, rambling aside, will the yeast continue to eat the sugars even when it has reached it's tolerance? I apologize for what may seem to be a very simple question but this will be my first ever brew and want to start with a nice mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16385" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-06-11T16:41:47.990" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T17:49:14.847" Title="Going past alcohol tolerance" Tags="|yeast|mead|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23007" CreationDate="2018-06-11T19:39:45.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's truly reached it's tolerance, then no.  But almost any yeast has more alcohol tolerance than the manufacturer typically lists, so you may be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T19:39:45.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-12T00:43:56.530" Score="3" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi guys I have a question, I just brewed Omnipollo 2:14 clone, and the recipe calls for 1.3 kg of raspberries, I soaked the bag in the starsan,roughly sprayed the frozen raspberry with starsan too and put it in the wort in a bag.Now it’s time to dry hop so I’m wondering if it’s okay to spray with starsan a tip of a bag which is sticking out of the wort cos the raspberries made it float on the top even I put the weight in.I just worry about if some nasties can grow on the top of it ,or CO 2 environment  is safe for five days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanx and cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15270" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T15:41:54.987" Title="Spraying Starsan over fermenting wort" Tags="|fermentation|sanitation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23009" CreationDate="2018-06-12T06:27:17.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it would do much harm to your beer. I heard that STarsan is a good yeast nutrient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the floating bag: why not push the bag down with a santized spoon, or something. Do it couple of times per day. The fruits will soak up the beer and - sooner or later - stop floating. At least thats what I heard sour beer brewers are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T06:27:17.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23007" CreationDate="2018-06-12T12:58:56.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tl;dr version: it depends on a number of factors (yeast health, pitching rate, aeration etc.), keeping in mind that alcohol tolerance is not a sharply defined limit but more like a &quot;zone&quot; where the yeast becomes increasingly inhibited when alcohol levels rise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alcohol Tolerance in Brewing Yeasts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very important aspect of any yeast strain is its alcohol tolerance. Ethanol inactivates yeast. This means that, ironically, the yeast will eventually &quot;drown&quot; in its own alcohol product when it ferments enough sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The average lager and ale yeast tends to have an alcohol tolerance of between five and ten percent. More specialized yeasts for stronger beer styles can handle up to twelve or fifteen percent. Strains with higher alcohol tolerances do exist, but they are rare (seeing as beer styles with more than 15% of alcohol are not common) and they tend to be temperamental and difficult to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the limit of alcohol that a yeast can handle is not a well-defined point. Firstly, the alcohol tolerance specified by the producing yeast laboratory is a general ballpark figure. Yeast that s healthy, well fed, well oxygenated and generously pitched may complete a fermentation to alcohol levels higher than the specified tolerance, whereas unhappy and underpitched yeast may throw in the towel well before the specified tolerance has been reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the yeast begins to approach its alcohol limit, the fermentation begins to slow down in spite of  the fact that there are still unfermented sugars present in the wort. At the edge of its working range the yeast may still complete the fermentation eventually, or the fermentation may stall before it is complete. In order to achieve predictable and repeatable results, it is usually best to stay well below the yeast's maximum alcohol tolerance. If you need to ferment a beer close to the yeast's alcohol tolerance, make sure the yeast is healthy and pitch enough yeast. Under the proper conditions most yeasts can usually be pushed to one or two percent past their limit, but keep in mind that working this close to the edge can make for exciting home brewing, but does not guarantee reliable and repeatable results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that most yeast manufacturers specify the alcohol limits that a yeast can handle well below the actual limit so as to guarantee a reliable yeast performance. A yeast specified as having a 5% AT can frequently handle up to 8% or so in practice, but because you're past the manufacturer's guarantee, you're on you own and whatever happens is your responsibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T12:58:56.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23002" CreationDate="2018-06-12T13:13:43.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, fermenting low works fine, provided you stay above the point where the yeast goes dormant. Lower fermentation temperatures result in a slower fermentation and a &quot;cleaner&quot; flavour profile (not much of an issue with a sugar wash and turbo yeast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, turbo yeast can be a little temperamental. I've gone through a few that got stuck at low temperatures. But because when I ferment a sugar wash for alcohol production in my reflux still I don't worry about bacterial infection, I tend to stick an aquarium heater into the wash in winter to keep it at &quot;turbo&quot; temperatures and I get a quick fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T13:13:43.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-12T13:27:50.553" Score="2" ViewCount="768" Body="&lt;p&gt;The more I read about yeast and fermentation, the more conflicting, confusing (and possibly incorrect) statements I come across.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read in several bits of literature that yeast requires oxygen for biosynthesis (i.e. cell growth) and prefers to use it for this purpose, to which end it absorbs oxygen shortly after pitching (i.e. during the lag phase and before fermentation begins). Many sources indicate that almost all the dissolved oxygen is absorbed by the yeast within 30-180 minutes after pitching and is thereby removed from the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which begs the question if there is such a thing as &quot;aerobic fermentation&quot; in brewing. I mean, if the oxygen is being removed from the wort, aerobic fermentation (fermentation in an environment that exposes the yeast to oxygen, which not necessarily means the yeast will use oxygen for fermentation) is impossible without adding more oxygen after the lag phase (which, to the best of my knowledge, is neither recommended nor common practice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, yeast absorbs oxygen and nutrients from the wort during the lag phase and uses it for the synthesis of ATP, sterols and fatty acids which are stored in the cells. Then, following the lag phase, anaerobic fermentation starts, during which stage most cell growth takes place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does aerobic fermentation has a place in this? If so, when and how, and where does the oxygen come from?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the yeast use sugar for biosynthesis (i.e. cell formation)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What about anaerobic cell growth? I remember reading somewhere that yeast can multiply anaerobically, but the cells produced differ from those synthesized aerobically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;One fool can ask more questions than ten wise men can answer.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T00:50:46.500" Title="Is aerobic fermentation in beer brewing a myth?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|aeration|grow|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23018" CreationDate="2018-06-12T14:43:58.507" Score="2" ViewCount="1030" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general consensus seems to be that a mash pH of &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/understanding-the-mash-ph/residual-alkalinity-and-mash-ph&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;5.2-5.6 is desired&lt;/a&gt;. Beersmith even &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2015/05/07/mash-ph-and-why-it-matters-for-all-grain-beer-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;says&lt;/a&gt; it's the difference between a good beer and a truly great one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most mention trouble with too high of a pH, but I'm wondering, what are the impacts of a much lower pH, like 4.5 or even 4.0? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because adjusting the pH to make the environment favor lactobacillus using acidulated malt would be a pre-mash way of lowering the pH (rather than a post-mash method like adding phosphoric or lactic acid). I would prefer to use the acid malt, but it is pre-mash, so would like to understand the consequences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2017/01/30/water-chemistry-pt-7-evaluating-the-impact-of-low-mash-ph-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this experiment&lt;/a&gt;, there's not much negative impact, but it's hardly definitive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T20:46:57.720" Title="What are the impacts of mashing with a low pH?" Tags="|mash|sour|ph|lactobacillus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23007" CreationDate="2018-06-12T17:49:14.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was a professional winemaker for many years. 15% is easy to hit with most wine yeasts. The upper limits of alcohol production by yeast is around 20% and is hard to hit that. In practical purposes, around 17-18% is about what you'll get before the yeast literally drown in alcohol and stop working. But adding more sugar to make it sweet will likely keep the alcohol going until it can't anymore. You'll end up with a relatively high alcohol mead with some sweetness, but unless you sterile filter to remove the yeast, it might keep trying to convert the sugar leftover and you'll end up with sparkling mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T17:49:14.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23020" CreationDate="2018-06-12T20:21:20.143" Score="4" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've run into a &quot;bottled yesterday&quot; situation and I need to have 2 12oz bottles for an event tomorrow. The beer in question is a NEIPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I calculate the PSI needed for a crank and shake if I want a target of 2.6 for my c02 volume @60-64 degrees? The charts I've seen don't really cover the duration needed. Brewer's friend gives me a psi of 26.8 but I don't know how I would calculate how much more I need to do it in less time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total time would be ~8-9 hours under pressure until bottling and then ~1 hour to chill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started carbonating last night at ~27-28psi so I'll be getting ~18 hours of carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still curious if there is a method to calculate this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15277" LastEditorUserId="15277" LastEditDate="2018-06-13T18:03:40.023" LastActivityDate="2018-06-14T14:30:57.197" Title="Force carbonating then bottling" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|kegging|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23015" CreationDate="2018-06-12T20:38:39.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The enzymes beta-amylase and alpha-amylase have ideal ranges. Doesn't mean they will not work they just take longer if a little too high or low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4460087/#!po=49.0826&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4460087/#!po=49.0826&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Basically what it says is that our brewing enzymes will still function until pH induced denaturing, which happens around pH 2.0&lt;/strong&gt; Though they lose a lot of functionality below 4.0 pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for your application I would mash normally until saccrafication is done then add your acidulated malts at the end. Sparge once you've reached your desired pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T20:46:57.720" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T20:46:57.720" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23014" CreationDate="2018-06-13T13:06:31.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've since consulted with a local brewing academic. He is of the opinion that under optimal conditions the oxygen is, to all intents and purposes, indeed absorbed and thereby removed from the wort completely within 20-30 minutes after pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What muddles the field a little is the fact that oxygen can be (and usually is) stored within the cells before it is being used for biomass synthesis, most of which takes place during the high growth phase that follows the lag phase, the start of which essentially coincides with the initial phase of the primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the cited article defines 'aerobic fermentation' as fermentation in an aerobic environment. But after the yeast has absorbed practically all oxygen (shortly after pitching) such an environment no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, aerobic fermentation only takes place when yeast cells commence fermentation almost immediately after pitching. Which, in home and craft brewing, does not occur to any appreciable degree. I know of at least one industrial brewery where yeast is being cropped, checked and repitched in under 12 hours, and in that case aerobic fermentation MAY occur to some meaningful degree, because the yeast will start the fermentation almost as soon as it hits the wort. But in all other cases aerobic fermentation within a brewing context is pretty much a non-existent phenomenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-06-13T13:06:31.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23017" CreationDate="2018-06-14T14:30:57.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's isn't any formula or table established for a timescale of force carbonating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The unknown variables that vary too much to quantify are liquid density, container shape, liquid volume, cO2 delivery method and location.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formulas for cO2 volumes based on pressure and temp are well documented, but lack the duration needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More pressure does reduce the time but it can easily be over shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I either do a top down carbonation at serving pressure of 12psi and takes about 5 days in a 5g corney in an average 5% beer shish FG of 1.010-1.016.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if I want to rush it I attach to the out line for a bottom up carb at 12PSI (or desired psi for volumes) and then swirl the keg by slightly tipping it on a bottom edge, grabing it by a handle and get the beer to swirl. This takes about 20-30 minutes. You know when it's done be cause you can hear your regulator releasing gas and co2 bubbles in the tank, when it stops taking gas it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-14T14:30:57.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-16T18:31:08.097" Score="5" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to brew a New England IPA where I only use knocked hops and dry hopping. Is there any point in boiling for an hour? What is the minimum time I should boil for? I'm thinking maybe 15 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12879" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T13:06:27.603" Title="No Starting Hops - Do I need a 60 min boil?" Tags="|hops|boil|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23021" CreationDate="2018-06-16T19:19:40.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly. The guys from &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brülosophy&lt;/a&gt; do this with their &quot;Short and Shoddy&quot; series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that you hit your OG almost before the boil, because you will not have much evaporation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-06-16T19:19:40.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-16T22:30:30.280" Score="0" ViewCount="437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been driving myself a bit crazy... I created a  bug for ginger beer, then made up the mix of sugar lemon etc and left it to do its thing in a carboy for a week. Bubbled nicely, bottled, let sit for another week in bottle ... Light and thin, super bubbly, defo alch flavor ( I used champagne yeast) ... But ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initial gravity is higher than final. I let the bubbles die down and it levels to the same as the initial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I researched and feel I'm using the hydrometer correctly, but can't find any reason other than changing the mix after initial reading could throw out a false reading ... I did nothing to change the brew&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a newby... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16395" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T09:15:46.803" Title="Ginger beer abv ... Help" Tags="|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23021" CreationDate="2018-06-17T03:59:24.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boils are 60-90 minutes not for hops but to boil off DMS, in all grain brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing extract brewing then yes a short boil is ok. DMS has been taken care of in the extract production process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T03:59:24.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23028" CreationDate="2018-06-17T08:40:53.780" Score="3" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to kegging my beer. In a video I saw somebody putting Vaseline on all of the gaskets of his corny-kegs. I was wondering if this kills the foam of the beer. Or do I have to lube the gaskets for a better seal?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T14:06:11.487" Title="Should I lube the gaskets of my kegs?" Tags="|kegging|keg|corny-keg|packaging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-17T10:52:28.907" Score="3" ViewCount="1450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some turbo yeast left over, and figured I'd try make a couple litres of ginger beer (sugar, grated ginger, a little lime juice) and elderflower wine (sugar, elderflowers, lemon juice and zest) with it. Both have ended up with the same extremely unpleasant bitter flavour. They're currently undrinkable. Is there anything I can do to get rid of it? Currently I'm aging the elderflower wine and hoping for the best; I started the ginger beer later and that's still fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13340" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T16:54:44.230" Title="Any way to deal with bitter taste from turbo yeast?" Tags="|yeast|off-flavor|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23026" CreationDate="2018-06-17T14:03:07.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turbo yeast is very aggressive and consumes almost all sugars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bitter is most likley from an unbalance in sweet / bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add a non fermentable sugar like lactos to sweeten and counter the bitter to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T14:03:07.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23025" CreationDate="2018-06-17T14:06:11.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vaseline is petroleum based and will degrade black orings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use food grade silicone spray to keep your keg seals fresh and lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T14:06:11.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23021" CreationDate="2018-06-17T15:50:19.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;DMS is pretty much a non issue these days, so a short boil is fine.  I often do batches with a 20 min. mash and 20 min. boil  The beer turns out fine, with no hint of DMS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T15:50:19.637" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23023" CreationDate="2018-06-17T15:55:20.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose that you are thinking that measuring the gravity, is the same as measuring the alcohol in the ferment? That is not the case, what you are measuring is the sugar in the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start there is more sugar, your original gravity (OG) has a certain value. At the end of the fermentation, an amount of sugar has been fermented by the yeast into carbon dioxide and alcohol. Then you measure the final gravity (FG). From this you calculate the amount of alcohol in your ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple formula is: ABV = 131.25*(OG - FG)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alcohol_by_volume&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alcohol by volume&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gravity_(alcoholic_beverage)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gravity of alcoholic beverages&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-06-19T09:15:46.803" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T09:15:46.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23033" CreationDate="2018-06-18T03:46:32.080" Score="2" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about clearing my beer with gelatin. Can I add the gelatin in the already finished and packaged beer in the keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T14:16:11.040" Title="Can I use gelatin in a soda keg?" Tags="|keg|fining|gelatin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23031" CreationDate="2018-06-18T13:31:45.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. It's done all the time. &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/01/05/the-gelatin-effect-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Article on Gelatin fining in keg&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T13:31:45.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23031" CreationDate="2018-06-18T14:16:11.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As farmersteve said, yes you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in my experience you can get less than desirarable results if done wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem happens when force carbonation method or timing messes with the clarification process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best way is to add gelatin to the keg, swirl the keg slightly don't shake. Then use the top down plug and forget method to force carbonate. Top down Hi psi then low psi works too. Doing either of these tends to have the beer clear once done carbonating. &lt;em&gt;The co2 seems to work like a piston driving down the gelatin and particles.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing bottom up or any aditation method doesn't do well. &lt;em&gt;When doing this I found the keg to take just as long to clear as without gel. When cleaning keg I found most of the geltin in a ring of dense slime on top of the keg.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding gelatin to already carbonated beer works fine too. But don't disturb the keg and make sure it will maintain pressure. If it's able to lose carbonation it will float the gelatin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T14:16:11.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23035" CreationDate="2018-06-18T14:45:41.430" Score="3" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;All I was able to find was a question related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/20254/can-transporting-bottles-affect-the-outcome-of-the-brew&quot;&gt;moving the bottles&lt;/a&gt;, but not the demijohns during secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really want to brew some elderflower wine and starting after I move is not an option as the flowers will be gone by then. How likely is the agitation related to moving the demijohns to mess up my fermentation process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16398" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T12:22:14.867" Title="I'm moving apartments in couple months. Will transporting wine demijohns mess up the fermentation?" Tags="|wine|secondary-fermentation|transport|country-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23034" CreationDate="2018-06-18T15:00:23.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things. You can delay the wine but picking and freezing the flowers. Should not effect the flavor or quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second thing, a demijohn, carboy or whatever is like a giant bottle so in effect if you have all your chemistry (sulfites and such) at the right levels and you can move the demijohn with care, it should change nothing. The caveat to that is if it's a really long trip and major temperature swings, then I wouldn't do it. But if it's across town, go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T15:00:23.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23034" CreationDate="2018-06-19T12:22:14.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be fine. Just keep it covered from light and cool. Make sure your air-lock doesn't lose it's fluid in the move.&#xA;Only concern is if your changing elevation from high to low by 2-3k feet, you may suck in fluid from the air-lock. If this is the case just cover the fermentor with sanatized foil, use a lot and try to go down the sides 3-5 inches from the opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agitation is fine for fermentation. If anything it will help keep the yeast in suspension more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T12:22:14.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-19T13:17:25.157" Score="5" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a Belgium Grisette, which I have made before. This time I let it sit in the keg under CO2 for a couple of months, as I was out of town.  When I returned, I opened the keg, beer was very, very clear and I racked it into two 2.5 Gallon kegs, put them under CO2 and carbed one to the recommended volume.  In a week or so, I drew a beer, good frothy white head, decent taste, but very cloudy.  The frig was cold, about 38F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I have never had this happen with a kegged beer.  Chill Haze or issue with temperature or time spent in the keg prior to carbing?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T13:52:27.177" Title="Clear Beer Hazy After Carbonation" Tags="|kegging|cloudy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23037" CreationDate="2018-06-19T13:19:50.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be the first couple pints of the sludge from keg fining. If the later pints are clear, then this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or chill haze, If the beer clears in a glass once at room temp it's chill haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T13:19:50.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23040" CreationDate="2018-06-19T13:25:52.747" Score="3" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope this isn't too stupid a question.  (I am a &quot;noob&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to experiment with some additional flavourings in my latest brew, and was pondering using Honey Malt, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thehomebrewcompany.co.uk/honey-malt-crushed-500g-p-3467.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But can someone tell me how I am supposed to use it? I see it listed as a &quot;flavouring&quot; on some other sites, yet it is a &quot;malt&quot;? So at what stage, and how, do I add it? Is it supposed to be thrown in right at the beginning, or is it something I only add in late fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16352" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T13:55:35.117" Title="How do I use Honey Malt?" Tags="|flavor|specialty-malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23039" CreationDate="2018-06-19T13:55:35.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using grains for a kit, you should steep them. That is the simplest. According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/should-i-minimash-honey-malt-or-just-steep-it.332492/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; it is normally better to mash honey malt, but you can steep it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For steeping put your grains in a bag and add 1,5 l water of 65°C to it. Let it rest for half an hour, then replace part of the water needed for the kit with the amount of extract obtained by the steeping. Your honey malt will absorb some water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T13:55:35.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-19T14:33:20.910" Score="6" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm running taprite dual regulator on 10lb bottle. Ever since I taped a 58l beside my 20l keg, I get CO2 bubbles in my beer line which creates an air burst every time I pour a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible my 58l keg is forcing back pressure into my 20l keg and over carbonating it? I've tried everything to stop this air burst, and it only started when I taped the 58l beside it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16400" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-06-19T17:28:59.523" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T16:01:00.457" Title="Air burst when pouring from Keg" Tags="|airlock|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23041" CreationDate="2018-06-19T22:47:41.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you need to tune your serving lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer should be served at the pressure needed for it's co2 volumes at serving temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example a beer at 2.5 volumes needs 12 PSI at 38°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Belgian at 3.5 volumes needs 22 psi at 38°. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both have to have different beer line lengths to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer lines will have a spec sheet from the maker that tells you how much psi each foot of line will hold back. The goal is to have about 1-2 psi at the tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most 3/16 line will hold back 1psi per foot. Larger diameters have less psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for the 2.5 beer you need 10 feet of 3/16 line between the keg and tap for 2 psi at the tap. The 3.5 beer would need about 20 feet for the same pour speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/beer-line-calculator.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.kegerators.com/beer-line-calculator.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer hack: To save on buying a lot of line for different styles you can get 3/16 line to hold back more psi per foot with weed wacker line. &#xA;This is my beer gun line I've tuned for very slow fill with just 3 feet of beer line using two wacker lines inside. This will fill a 22oz bottle in about 30 seconds at 12 psi&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3IHaL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3IHaL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;beer gun &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I had read your question wrong. Answer corrected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-06-20T14:18:12.970" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T14:18:12.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23026" CreationDate="2018-06-20T13:00:29.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO using turbo yeast for fermenting beer or other fizzy/alcoholic drinks is &quot;less than optimal&quot;. It is not a yeast meant for directly fermenting drinks - it is a yeast mix meant for producing high alcohol content in a short time. The mix contains yeast and a lot of nutrient which can impart a biter flavour if not used up during fermentation. The idea of this yeast mix is to produce 24L of 20% alcohol mash &lt;em&gt;for distillation&lt;/em&gt; (or to drink only if one has run out of methylated spirit :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be advantageous to go buy some &quot;normal&quot; brewing yeast or, if all else fails, use bakers yeast. It is quite adequate for making ginger ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T13:00:29.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23021" CreationDate="2018-06-20T13:06:27.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one is doing extract brewing then it is not &lt;em&gt;necessary&lt;/em&gt; to boil the malt at all. I have made very good beers using malt extract dissolved in hot water and dry hopping the resulting wort in the FV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using all grain then boiling can be useful to denature the amylase enzymes (etc) and to pasteurise the wort but that can be done in 5 minutes (or less). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T13:06:27.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23009" CreationDate="2018-06-20T13:47:36.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starsan IIRC is a mix of phosphoric acid and a wetting agent (surfactant) to get the solution to stick to the walls of a vessel. While one might be able to do it - I do not advise using starsan to sterilise anything other than brewing equipment - most usefully brewing vessels. Spraying starsan on raspberries is not a particularly useful procedure as it cannot sterilise them &lt;em&gt;internally&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO starsan is about as effective as boiling water in most instances. I advise not using starsan on nylon hop or fruit bags. A quick dip/swirl of the bag in boiling water (or cold water and microwave) is adequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it is worth noting that one can get too paranoid or place too much emphasis on making everything totally &lt;em&gt;sterile&lt;/em&gt;. Beer was brewed well long before StarSan, bleach or pasteurisation was discovered. Yes there were occasional rejected batches (as there still are when using sterilisers) but in the main the brewing process was repeatable enough that people in past centuries made it in a simple fashion using basic hygiene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2018-06-21T15:41:54.987" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T15:41:54.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22983" CreationDate="2018-06-20T14:03:34.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would store it in bottles where ever is convenient and not pay too much attention to temp fluctuations during conditioning. I have many hundreds of bottles of beer conditioning on a regular basis - some remain in the bottle for over 18 months. I cannot put them all in one place - or even an optimal place. So some bottled beers are stored in various &quot;cold&quot;, &quot;warm&quot; and &quot;hot&quot; locations. Some years back I did a tasting do see if this variation was noticeable across the same beer conditioned/aged in different storage areas. In general it was difficult to tell between the beers. Blind tasting by friends (and myself!) showed no obvious position/temp/taste correlation. The only thing noted was that the bottled beer improved considerably with time! 3 month beer being better than 2 week beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T14:03:34.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-20T21:43:57.487" Score="5" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading about Norwegian Farmhouse Ales and I'm quite curious about them. Should I drag a wooden wreath through the dregs of my Norwegian Farmhouse Ale and hang it up to dry and re-use it? Is this really viable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oug2v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oug2v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T23:59:06.053" Title="Saving Kveik the old fashioned way?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23047" CreationDate="2018-06-20T23:59:06.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though this method is still used today by some breweries that want to stay true to the historical methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's more reliable methods of preserving and pitching cultures using modern methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T23:59:06.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22983" CreationDate="2018-06-22T20:02:35.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The initial aging process will depend on the type of yeast used on the brewing. If your beer is unfiltered and the yeast is still present in the bottles, the yeast will still be active and metabolizing compounds such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/04/21/diacetyl-in-home-brewed-beer-the-butterscotch-flavor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dyacetyl and pentainedione&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you would keep the yeast at the optimal fermentation temperature so that they will remain healthy for a few weeks, then cool them for a few days before drinking which will increase the amount of carbonation that dissolves into the solution within the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no yeast, then it doesn't matter unless its much greater than 25 degrees C. &lt;a href=&quot;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/jib.194&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See figure 1.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastEditorUserId="16409" LastEditDate="2018-06-22T20:13:36.160" LastActivityDate="2018-06-22T20:13:36.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2018-06-22T21:51:39.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in possession of black morello cherry vishnik. The cherries were picked and allowed to ferment into wine, with some yeast added.  After several years in the basement, the wine was filtered and mixed with overproof alcohol, slowly.  Each taste test allowed us to find the right wine and alcohol mixture. The result was bottled in sterilized bottles and corked; after 10 years we had to filter the sediment (lees) first through a mesh sieve, then through unbleached coffee filters.&#xA;We call the result liquid sleeping pills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My parents had another and faster process: putting plumbs in good brandy and waiting 6 months.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16410" LastActivityDate="2018-06-22T21:51:39.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-23T22:24:39.373" Score="1" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am really new to using kegs and gas. I forgot to gas the keg and 1 week later attached the gas but the beer will not carbonate. Taste is good and puts a head on when poured which lasts for a while but the beer tastes flat as it is not carbonated, HELP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16397" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T18:26:44.730" Title="Gassing kegs of beer" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-24T10:11:59.963" Score="3" ViewCount="3696" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best grade of plastic for brewing and storing alcohol (up to about 15%)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically as the title suggests, I’m in a rural part of Tanzania with no access to glass but I do have access to some food grade plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16412" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T11:21:12.707" Title="What is the best plastic to use to store alcohol?" Tags="|brewing|aging|alcohol-content|alcohol|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4743" CreationDate="2018-06-24T23:46:19.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like many people, I don’t like bitter tastes. Don’t like detergent, paracetamol, hops, battery acid, etc. Malt, on the other hand, is delicious; its sweet, rich, aromatic and when brewed into barley wine is fantastic - just too strong.&#xA;So what is it with brewers that they insist beer must be bitter? If not hops, then they have to put something else in to “bitter” it.&#xA;My old Dad, when he was alive, brewed excellent beer and tried zero hop ales a few times, they were outstanding. Everyone who tried them agreed and wanted more. Neighbours would always ask when he was going to brew another batch.&#xA;Brewers: Please, please, get it into your heads that there are many who would love an ale that hadn’t been spoiled with nasty bitter tastes.&#xA;Consider this: Which sells more, dark chocolate or milk chocolate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16414" LastActivityDate="2018-06-24T23:46:19.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23051" CreationDate="2018-06-25T01:41:16.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can still carbonate your beer. Put the gas into the keg, and shake the keg for 20mins or so until you stop hearing the gas going in. It then becomes carbonated. Best to put the keg on the side on the floor or table, and roll it back and forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16070" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T01:41:16.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23056" CreationDate="2018-06-25T07:40:15.947" Score="4" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a chocolate + oat stout on the weekend and would like to add some additions (cacao nibs predominantly - toying with adding some rum soaked raisins). I do not however have a suitable secondary fermenter. Will adding these to the primary cause any issues and is there anything else I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16415" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T11:18:28.507" Title="Can you add additions to the primary?" Tags="|secondary|stout|additives|oats|nibs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23055" CreationDate="2018-06-25T08:36:39.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a secondary then, feel free to add them to your primary. You don't really have to worry much about making additions in your primary, I have done it many times in the past when I lacked a spare FV to use as secondary, and suffered no ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may just have to add a little more of any flavourings you are adding as some of the flavour compounds may stick to the yeast and drop out with the yeast adhered to the surface of the cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T08:36:39.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23052" CreationDate="2018-06-25T08:38:51.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have stored wine and beer in PET soda bottles and it worked fine for me. Also, they can handle high pressures, so if you have excess refermentation in the bottle then you don't split the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T08:38:51.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23055" CreationDate="2018-06-25T08:57:20.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes, go right ahead, that's what I did and it worked out fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15602" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T08:57:20.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23063" CreationDate="2018-06-25T09:56:40.817" Score="2" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I harvested some custom Saison yeast from a particular brewery I like. I made a starter and have kept in the fridge. As there was only a small amount in the bottle (as expected), the amount of yeast is quite small - maybe 3mm layer on the bottom of an average jar. To increase my yeast sample for a future brew, do I just tip the liquid out, re-make another starter, adding this yeast? Can I do this a few times until I have a good amount? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16415" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T11:15:34.503" Title="Yeast harvesting from bottle and fermenter" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4743" CreationDate="2018-06-25T10:07:05.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can either replace the hops with something else or leave them out completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before hops became popular, people used various herbs (e.g., rosemary and sage). This was called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gruit beer&lt;/a&gt;. Unfortunately people also used poisonous plants like nightshades, and that made the whole thing much less pleasant. If you stick to culinary herbs you'll get something that works great as a marinade or in a roast, but maybe not so great for drinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One beer without hops was the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beeradvocate.com/articles/5711/broyhan/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Broyhan&lt;/a&gt;. It's a beer from northern Germany, made from barley and wheat. I followed a recipe from &lt;a href=&quot;https://braumagazin.de/article/der-broyhan/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;German brau!magazin&lt;/a&gt; and ended up with a very wine-ish beer, sweet, medium alcohol, and sparkly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2018-06-25T11:39:57.060" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T11:39:57.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5148" CreationDate="2018-06-25T15:25:39.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You make beers like those you buy, like those you like.  Take a 4.2 % premium bitter, take a 4.5% pale ale, take a 5.6% IPA, take a stout at 4.3 %&#xA;Find out the hops in each one and the IBU's. Divide the total hop Ibu by 3.5 , that will give you the ballpark aau's , for the bittering hops only for a 60 min boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T15:25:39.757" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-06-25T15:25:39.757" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4743" CreationDate="2018-06-25T20:16:25.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Norwegian Farmhouse Ales mostly use Juniper as their anti-bacterial/bitter flavoring. They have been doing this for hundreds of years and well before hops were established as the go to bittering agent. You can read all about how Juniper is used at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.garshol.priv.no/blog/366.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Larsblog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLO4B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLO4B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T20:16:25.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23059" CreationDate="2018-06-25T21:10:33.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do a step starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start around 500ml and double for each step until you get your pitch amount needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T21:10:33.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22783" CreationDate="2018-06-26T01:46:55.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just finished my third NEIPA brew with a 50/50 Nottingham / Windsor blend. Not a ton of fruity esters at 68 degrees, but produces a nice flavor for the style. The FG is always a bit lower than Brewsmith predictions for the yeasts. Go for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16416" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T01:46:55.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23068" CreationDate="2018-06-26T13:08:09.883" Score="1" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/22813/why-does-my-fermentation-keep-stalling&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; a while back, and got a lot of good suggestions. But they didn't fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My most recent batch is a witbier. It started at 1.050 and started fermenting in 12 hours. The airlock bubbled rapidly for five days and then stopped, even though I raised the temperature to 72F after the third day. After a week I took a gravity sample, and it's still at 1.028.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the advice in the last question, I used a 1.2L starter this time and aerated my wort with an aquarium pump for 20min before I pitched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Witbier recipe (5gal batch): 7lb Pilsner, 5lb flaked wheat. Mashed for 60min at 153F, temp dropped to 152F by the end. Wyeast 3944. RO water with 3g of CaCl2 and 3g of CaSO4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never had this problem in my first 10 batches. Why might it be happening now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15424" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T11:09:44.213" Title="Why does my fermentation keep stalling (round 2)" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23014" CreationDate="2018-06-27T00:32:20.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1)  Does aerobic fermentation has a place in this? If so, when and how, and where does the oxygen come from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aerobic metabolism is a more efficient pathway to convert the glucose to cellular energy and therefore is always taken when O2 is present which is only during the initial phase. The time it takes until oxygen depletion occurs depends on population, headspace, temp, mixing, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) Does the yeast use sugar for biosynthesis (i.e. cell formation)? What about anaerobic cell growth? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cell depends on sugar for all its energy. Some energy goes to synthesis of metabolic end products some goes to biomass generation; the ratio and end products of synthesis depend on envronmental conditions such as the level of O2 or glucose presence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biomass growth will occur in both aerobic and anaerobic conditions, but it will occur at a higher rate when oxygen is present - which is why stir plates are used to create yeast starters. Ethanol synthesis begins regardless when &gt;5 degree plato is reached to inhibit the growth of other organisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3)I remember reading somewhere that yeast can multiply anaerobically, but the cells produced differ from those synthesized aerobically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. They have just changed which metabolic pathways are being used to convert the glucose into biomass and ethanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastEditorUserId="16409" LastEditDate="2018-06-27T00:50:46.500" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T00:50:46.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23052" CreationDate="2018-06-27T08:23:55.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polypropylene is commonly used for brewing buckets but is not so good for containing pressurised/fizzy drinks. PET is most commonly used for fizzy drinks bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PET soda bottles are good for storing beer for a while - for example 6 months. Over time the CO2 gas will slowly diffuse through the bottle walls and gradually depressurise the beer. Which means beer cannot be left to mature/age for any great time and remain &quot;fizzy&quot;. However some people prefer less fizzy beer so it depends on one's taste....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If storing still wine then food grade PET containers are acceptable. But again it is worth remembering oxygen can diffuse inward as much as CO2 can diffuse outward. The oxygen may affect the flavour of the brew over an extended time (eg 1-2 years). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one is just storing distilling mash or &quot;banana beer&quot; for a short while then almost any food grade plastic container will do&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T08:23:55.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23065" CreationDate="2018-06-27T11:09:44.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the normal lag time, your wort aeration and the yeast starter, we may assume that you've got a proper yeast culture pitched into well oxygenated wort. RO water (even with your additions) is not ideal and you could possibly do with some yeast nutrient supplementing your salts, but your malt should take care of some of that, and in any case it's not a typical cause of what you describe here. In short, I think we can pretty much rule out oxygen, yeast, water and nutrients. Which leaves wort composition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only suspect I can think of is the flaked wheat. A grain bill of 7lb Pilsener malt and 5lb wheat malt is a decent one for a witbier, but I'm not so sure about the flaked wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, while wheat malt usually has &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; diastatic power (not all that much, but still) flaked wheat has none at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, not all flaked wheats are created equal. Depending on how much heat the wheat has been exposed to during processing (and for how long) the degree of gelatinization may vary. Some flaked wheats are steamed and then rolled (compressed) while other are mostly just shredded and are supposed to be cooked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your flaked wheat is the latter (i.e. it has been processed relatively cool and quickly) the bulk of the starches are likelely not pre-gelatinized at all, which means you've now dumped a ton and a half of insoluble starch into your mash tun, with which the enzymes from the Pilsener malt can do little or nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cereal mash the flaked wheat and repeat the brew with better results, you have isolated the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T11:09:44.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23059" CreationDate="2018-06-27T11:15:34.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast from bottles always has to be stepped up several times. Most of it will be stone dead (having been through the wars in both the fermenter and the bottle and having aged for far too long) so you'll need to give those few remaining live cells every chance they can get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, keep in mind that many breweries use dedicated bottling yeasts these days. In other words, the yeast in the bottle is NOT the yeast used in the fermenter! Bottling yeasts tend to have a fairly neutral flavour profile and not ferment maltotriose to an appreciable degree (thus respecting the beer's body and flavour profile) but are completely unsuitable to brew a beer with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not this is the case with your yeast deposit remains to be seen; some breweries will tell you while others will not. In this case trial and error (or, as I can state from personal experimentation along these lines, trial and terror) is the only way to find out if the yeast in your bottle is the real deal or a bottling yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T11:15:34.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23055" CreationDate="2018-06-27T11:18:28.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with previous answers: if you have no secondary, there's nothing wrong with chucking whatever you want to add into the primary. However, if your additions are highly aromatic, you may want to add them only after 3 days or so when the fermentation begins to calm down a little, or the vigorous bubbling of the initial fermentation stage may carry off most of your aromas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T11:18:28.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23052" CreationDate="2018-06-27T11:21:12.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing better than glass from a standpoint of oxygen ingress. The next best choice would be PET, followed by polyethylene and polypropylene. With PE and PP the density of the material (which varies) is more important than the material itself. Go for HDPE and HDPP if you can get it, and avoid LDPE and LDPP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T11:21:12.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23051" CreationDate="2018-06-27T14:40:58.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of  the great benefits you get when kegging. I usually keg my beers and store them for a week or two in my root cellar (@ 50-60ºF) before carbonating. I don't usually filter my final product so I find it beneficial to give the beer a little time to settle out some of the sediment that gets stirred up during transfer. It's also important to note that introducing gas during this window won't have any effect on the sediment settling out, but I personally notice a positive difference in taste when I wait to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question, you can indeed still carbonate this batch by force carbonating as outlined in Nhon Ha's answer, or just hook up the gas line and set it at 20psi for about a week (pull a test after about four days to see the progress). When you have the gas line hooked up and turned on, double check that the keg isn't leaking by using a soapy sponge to apply some suds to the connection points, main lid, and stress points. If you find bubbles at any point, turn off the gas and try to fix the leaks before continuing to carbonate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more note: Make sure your gassing at a colder temperature if possible. This will help the CO2 permeate the solution much more efficiently. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;helpful chart for determining proper carbonation levels&lt;/a&gt; for your kegging adventures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n4D9N.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n4D9N.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14427" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T14:40:58.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23075" CreationDate="2018-06-27T18:57:18.527" Score="9" ViewCount="3399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a 12 pack of swing-top bottles at a decent price. I only now noticed that over time as I drank through the batch, the bottles were less and less carbonated, ranging from perfect carbonation in the early bottles to virtually no carbonation in the later bottles. I've never had an issue with losing carbonation in previous batches in capped bottles, so I can rule out my technique for carbonating. In hindsight I'm starting to think the bottles were a great price because, well, they're cheap bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to avoid buying a more expensive set of bottles (and risking the same results). &lt;strong&gt;Is there anything I can do to strengthen the seal of the gaskets or upgrade the seals with a better option for my next batch?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14427" LastEditorUserId="16546" LastEditDate="2019-05-16T16:32:22.487" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T12:49:35.447" Title="Swing-top bottles leaking carbonation" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|shelf-life|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23074" CreationDate="2018-06-27T23:44:59.027" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace the seals. Buying 100 seals from eBay should cost you something like US$10. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use swing-top bottles, and my protocol is to replace a seal immediately after opening a bottle that turned out to be undercarbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastEditorUserId="16546" LastEditDate="2019-07-11T21:00:33.603" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T21:00:33.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23077" CreationDate="2018-06-28T07:58:49.387" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I finished my 6th batch of beer, the first top-fermenting one (wheat beer). The yeast is from a commercial brewery nearby, so I don't know its exact type. Usually my bottle fermentation takes place at cellar or even room temperatures and I put the bottles in the fridge a couple of days before drinking. For bottom-fermenting yeast this worked nicely so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The bottle fermentation and storage of the new batch:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Half of the batch (A): 4 weeks at room temperature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Half of the batch (B): one week at room temperature, 3 weeks in the fridge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Half B tastes really good, Half A shows a distinct sour overtone. Is top-fermenting yeast more prone to building undesired byproducts during bottle fermentation than bottom-fermenting yeast? Or could the summer temperatures be the reason? (Cellar: 10°C in the winter, 15°C in the summer, Room: 18°C in the winter, 23°C in the summer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16328" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T17:03:37.590" Title="Is top-fermenting yeast more prone to building undesired byproducts during bottle fermentation than bottom-fermenting yeast?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23076" CreationDate="2018-06-28T15:39:54.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have sour overtones, then you likely have either an acetobacter, pedio, lacto or a wild yeast contamination. And, having been at a warmer temperature for longer will have allowed this biological contamination more opportunity to generate sour off flavours to a level above the taste threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T15:39:54.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23079" CreationDate="2018-06-28T16:06:07.337" Score="8" ViewCount="8348" Body="&lt;p&gt;For years, I've always taken my gravity readings with the hydrometer that came with my original homebrew kit. There's nothing wrong with it, but I've been thinking lately about switching over to a refractometer. While I enjoy tasting the progress of the beer at various stages, I'd like to limit the amount of beer I pull out of my batch to take gravity readings (an pbvious benefit of the refractometer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which of these two tools is more accurate/precise in taking gravity measurements?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14427" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T00:36:44.863" Title="Refractometer vs. Hydrometer" Tags="|hydrometer|refractometer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23078" CreationDate="2018-06-28T17:52:05.570" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are both very accurate when used correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's really best to use both&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refractometer is only accurate for OG readings. Benefit is a few drops for sample instead of 100-200ml. This is very useful when doing several samples trying to hit an OG in the mash/boil process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You still need your hydrometer for fermentation gravity readings and FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though there are some calculators to use refraction in FG they still need to be calibrated for each batch using a hydrometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Side note: Using a calculator, a refractometer and a hydrometer on FG can get you an unknown OG. Very useful when reverse engineering a commercial beer or when an OG reading was forgotten.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T08:50:43.177" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T08:50:43.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23078" CreationDate="2018-06-28T17:58:59.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently switched too.  One problem I noticed with the smaller sample is that if you pull from the top of the vessle you may get some oils or other less dense particles collected at the top. This layer of particles doesn't effect the hydrometer much reading since the sample size is much larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Precision - as long as temp is about 70f the hydrometer will be more reliable since it is based on a large sample and uses density.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accuracy - the refractometer has to be recalibrated, using a hydrometer or by making a known solution with a scale. Also, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/how-to-determine-your-refractometers-wort-correction-factor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wort correction factor&lt;/a&gt; should be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T17:58:59.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-28T23:07:47.857" Score="2" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I am an old dude with arthritic hands and would like to know just how hard is it normally to attach a disconnect to a post. I push as hard as I can but have to hit the top with a rubber hammer for it to finally connect.&#xA;Would this be over the top, or normal for someone with my problem hands.&#xA;I might advise that all the disconnects are brand new, if that makes any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16397" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T16:33:17.663" Title="My question is about Disconnects" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23078" CreationDate="2018-06-29T08:56:25.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Which of these two tools is more accurate/precise in taking gravity measurements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydrometer. In my experiance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be my cheap refractometer but i've noticed some inaccurate readings and I therefore don't trust it completely. I use the refractometer during the boil and fermentation just to get a general idea, but always a final reading with a hydrometer. I usually take the trub that is left in the kettle after the boil to get a accurate OG and the last bit of beer before the yeast cake after fermentation for a FG, to minimize the beer loss.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T08:56:25.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23097" CreationDate="2018-06-29T12:54:43.770" Score="1" ViewCount="1956" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far during all my brewing experience I've used (more or less) the correct hop variety, but with varying alpha acid content than required in the recipe. As far as bittering is concerned, I'm pretty sure that I'm doing the right thing by adding ((recipe acid %)/(actual acid %))*(recipe quantity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I'm wondering if this is also the right thing to do for aroma additions. I.e. does the chemical component responsible for aroma (presumably some kind of VOC) always vary in quantity in proportion to alpha acid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering this after tasting a sample currently in the fermeneter and finding it a bit different to what I'd expected (not sure if it's bitterness or a strong &quot;hop&quot; flavour).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T09:06:40.797" Title="How to correctly adjust hops for different alpha acid content" Tags="|hops|aroma|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23081" CreationDate="2018-06-29T13:03:37.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like you're talking about corney keg ball locks. When used correctly they should attach with minimal effort. By lifting the lock ring and pressing on the nipple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I suspect you are connecting liquid fittings to gas nipples.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ball locks have two fittings gas and liquid. Gas are usually white or gray, liquid are usually black. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gas (white or gray) fittings fit both liquid and gas nipples with ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Liquid fittings (black) only fit liquid nipples. Though with force they will go on gas lines. They will be very difficult to attach and remove.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If ball locks are still difficult to use, pin locks are easier when concisering the force needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If talking about brew system lines like cam locks, tri-clamp are go on with much less effort though some dexterity is needed.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T13:03:37.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23078" CreationDate="2018-06-29T16:21:53.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used a hydrometer in years. I think they are worthless and you waste a fair amount of beer using one. You can do a very close estimate of your alcohol content by just using only a refractometer. I used a similar formula when making wine and remembered it for using it with beer too. I won't post the formula here (it's at this website). I never looked back and you should just throw away your hydrometer. Get a temperature compensating refractometer. They are a bit more expensive but you'll have it the rest of your life. Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://seanterrill.com/2012/01/06/refractometer-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calculator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T16:21:53.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23083" CreationDate="2018-06-30T03:30:04.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does apply if the aroma hops have any time or above 175°. Then they will contribute to the isomerized alpha-acid IBU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, beer can be made more bitter with a lot of dry hops. But it's not the same as isomerized alpha acids. In my experience this dry hop bitterness fades in a couple weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T03:30:04.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-30T14:06:12.853" Score="4" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a batch of peach blend vinters best wine base. I intentionally added extra sugar as I always do. The majority of residual sugar was converted to alcohol. I racked several times. I then filtered with my vine brite filter system. I degassed a few times. I back sweetened to taste. Let it rest another week with the airlock in place. I then degassed again and bottled. My new wine rack is in my dining room in direct sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could the fluctuation of temperatures be the cause of corks popping? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have it in my garage beverage fridge in boxes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the best solution to my problem?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently only have 16 bottles left. We have been trying to drink it faster than the others. I have been making wine for 8 years and this is only the second time I have had this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would Camden tablets before bottling have possibly prevented this from happening?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I may have forgotten to use them in this batch. My notes taken during each batch usually show me where I went wrong. Thanks, I have two other batches going now ready for bottling. Blackberry and Blueberry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16424" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-07-13T10:18:17.043" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T11:02:45.693" Title="Peach blend wine popping corks and very fizzy" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23087" CreationDate="2018-06-30T16:50:04.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few degrees shouldn't expand enough to pop a cap or cork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sounds like yeast action&lt;/strong&gt;. Campden would help but not much as it only prevents growth, not feeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep em cellar cool and out of light. Give them a safe place to finish off and the yeast to go dormant. If you corked you should be ok with a dry cork. Then wet with side storage after yeast is done. Caps: may need burped or replaced after they breach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T16:50:04.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23087" CreationDate="2018-06-30T16:50:24.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fluctuation of temperature will cause a fluctuation in bottle pressure because the volume of co2 dissolved in solution is dependant on temp. The higher temperature goes, the lower co2 that can be dissolved in solution will be and the higher the pressure will go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your bottling temp? by raising it you will reduce pressure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much head space have you left? by leaving a larger volume headspace you could reduce the maximum pressure reached by the same tempearature. If the fluid level is lowered then the pressure increase per tempearture increase will be reduced because the amount of co2 leaving solution is reduced and the amount of compressable gas is increased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ganauamerica.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2013/07/Bottling-Handbook_English.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This pdf&lt;/a&gt; shows the recommended fill level based on the bottling temperature as well how a standard 63.5 mm, 68 degree fill's pressure will vary by temperature, though they attribute this to liquid density changes rather than co2 in solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastEditorUserId="16409" LastEditDate="2018-06-30T17:11:33.203" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T17:11:33.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23076" CreationDate="2018-06-30T17:03:37.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not during bottle conditioning. Both ale and lager strains will behave the same and produce no esters..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless there was oxygen contaminate then the yeast may try a growth phase again producing esters. In this scenario lager strain will produce more esters at warmer temps,than an ale strain will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already answered by Mr_road. A sour taste would be from a wild yeast or bacteria contaminate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T17:03:37.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2018-07-01T17:04:47.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, a famous Italian grappa-producing family (Nonino) has been creating such kind of beverages for quite a while. They brand it Gioiello (italian for jewel) and the english version of ther website calls it honey distillate. I also came across names as honey vodka, honey moonshine, honeyshine, honey spirit, and distilled mead. Since it hasn't gained worldwide popularity (yet) it gasno official name. I personally like to call it honey spirit and am sipping on a glass of my own craft version as i type this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16425" LastActivityDate="2018-07-01T17:04:47.873" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-07-01T17:04:47.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-02T20:56:42.630" Score="1" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;A brief question, I will add details tomorrow. I am fermenting fruit wines in the pet-Nat style. I find the yeast and yeast activity in wines exciting, full bodied, healthy and invigorating. Drinking a living yeasty young wine full of frizzante and nourishment leaves me wondering if our fine wines aren't  industrial beverages for a modern audience, succumbed to some oversanitised, glassy, idealized version of what wine should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is simple. Why do we get rid of the yeast and sediment? Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16370" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T08:28:54.170" Title="why do we try to get rid of sediment?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23093" CreationDate="2018-07-02T22:46:18.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry, not everyone can tolerate a lot of yeast. It can cause &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.healthline.com/health/brewers-yeast#side-effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gastrointestinal stress&lt;/a&gt; if you consume too much. You don't want to be around me after drinking too much hefeweizen. I do find that beer with a large amount of yeast sediment can taste muddy and of course &quot;yeasty&quot; and a serious detraction from drinking it. That's usually not a problem in wine. Since wine spends many months or years aging before it's bottled, the yeast will naturally settle out over time. Sparkling wine that's been aged on the yeast sediment for a while can give wine a nice bready, toasty flavor and give very light bodied wines more flavor. BUT, having a very cloudy, yeasty wine is considered a definite game stopper. I know the Pét-Nat wine thing is very &quot;in&quot; right now. A small amount of yeast in suspension is no big deal and is gaining popularity so just hang on there grasshopper, I'm sure things will swing around your way. Just look at the craft beer industry. About 75% of craft beers are cloudy these days. The same might happen for wine soon...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T22:46:18.683" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23093" CreationDate="2018-07-03T13:08:20.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some drinkers like cloudy ferments and some do not. A cloudy fermentation is, generally speaking, still active (in one way or another). When the fermentation has come to an almost complete halt the brew tends to clear. The clearing process can take some time to complete hence wines especially and beers often are left to age. The ageing often adds a certain characteristic to the brew, be that wine or beer or whatever (kim-chi!? :). That characteristic is as often sought after as any fresh/yeasty tasting brew. &quot;Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choice.....&quot; Many drinkers think the wine immature if it is presented cloudy - and they are often right as far as home brews go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Village wine&quot; made in the Greek hills by traditional methods (yup - with feet and natural yeast) is often drunk slightly cloudy because it is often (if not usually) drunk young - often within the year it was made. They drink it in preference to (bottled) clear wine perhaps because of the low cost rather than the flavour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand it can be the case that wine is fast fermented, filtered, plied with sulphites and possibly flavourings and bottled like some &quot;alco-pop&quot;. As noted these are often clear &quot;brews&quot; too and often attract criticism for being &quot;industrial plonk&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one really wants to have cloudy wine one can always add some yeast from a bottled suspension kept conveniently close at hand. IMHO that is the only material difference between cloudy and clear brews. The yeast will be fresh and vigorous and, err, tasty and be full of useful nutrients/vitamins.One can add a little or a lot as one prefers. Mmmmmmmmm. But not for me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T13:08:20.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23093" CreationDate="2018-07-04T08:28:54.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from the fact that most people prefer clear beverages (as already pointed out above) there is also the fact that the finished beverage (be it beer or wine or whatever) has to be relatively stable in order to mature properly over time. The aging of wines and beers involves weirdly complex processes, and having a ton of sediment in the mix which may contain all sorts of Weird &amp;amp; Wonderful chemical and biochemical substances (which may or may not react with each other and which may or may not be the precursors to other products that may or may not be desirable, depending on a bazillion of conditions, all make for a very unpredictable aging process. Removing at least most of the crud from the wine before the lengthy maturation process begins is a good starting point for a beverage with a generally better quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, when a wine or beer is drunk &quot;young&quot; the above is far less of an issue, so you can get away with more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In closing, if you enjoy drinking a wine that needs a fork and knife to get through it, why shouldn't you? Make and drink whatever works for you, and have fun! That's the most important thing as far as I'm concerned. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T08:28:54.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23083" CreationDate="2018-07-04T09:06:40.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl;dr version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;yes, you are right, there are seasonal variations in a hop's aromatic qualities, and AA variations which necessitate adjusting the quantity of a given hop addition gives rise to even more variation. However, in practice this is usually quite insignificant. If you are concerned that a considerable AA variation requires significant adjustments in a late addition of a very aromatic hop, one option to deal with this is not to vary the aromatic hop addition, but make adjustments in your neutral bittering additions which have far less of an effect in the finished beer's aroma and delicate flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correcting bittering for different AA percentages is easy; it's simply a matter of multiplying and dividing. If your recipe specifies a 5% AA hop and yours is 6%, you use 5/6th of the quantity in the recipe to arrive at the same bitterness. You know the drill. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aroma properties of a hop are an entirely different matter. There are literally hundreds of compounds involved in producing the hop's flavor and aroma profile. The bulk of these (by weight and volume, not by number) are known as hop oils. Part of the hop oils (20-50% or so) consists of oxygenated hydrocarbons which are water soluble and play a large role in dry hopping. Other parts of the hop oils are not water soluble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the exact composition of hops is mindbogglingly complex (literature cites some 400 aromatic compounds) and the effect and interaction of all of these is not fully understood, specifying seasonal variations in the aromatic qualities of hops is impossible in practice. A comprehensive certificate of analysis can give you a fair indication at best, and you'll have to know how to read it in the first place. Fortunately the genetic makeup of the hop (i.e. the hop strain) is the most important factor, and seasonal variations play a secondary (although detectable) role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore in practice most brewers simply assume the hops aroma  profile to be fairly constant. Which means that if you increase or decrease your hop additions to compensate for AA variations, you increase and decrease their contribution to the beer's aroma and flavor profile accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not this is a big issue depends on how you brew. Varying the addition of a very aromatic bittering hop that is added mid-boil will have a much larger effect that varying the addition of a neutral bittering hop that spends an hour in the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize: yes, you are right, there are seasonal variations in a hop's aromatic qualities, and AA variations which necessitate adjusting the quantity of a given hop addition gives rise to even more variation. However, in practice this is usually quite insignificant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned that a considerable AA variation requires significant adjustments in a late addition of a very aromatic hop, one option to deal with this is not to vary the aromatic hop addition, but make adjustments in your neutral bittering additions which have far less of an effect in the finished beer's aroma and delicate flavor profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T09:06:40.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23099" CreationDate="2018-07-04T11:07:52.867" Score="4" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 475ml package of Starsan has two openings as can be seen on this image &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ECBgr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ECBgr.png&quot; alt=&quot;StarSan 475ml bottle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is to seek confirmation that the second opening is merely supposed as a measuring aid/help. &#xA;An answer would clarify (i.e. from personal experience) that Starsan (as with the other sized bottles, is a &quot;one component&quot; sanitizer only and not as the second highlighted container suggests a &quot;two component&quot; thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14242" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T13:12:06.753" Title="Why does Starsan's 475ml packaging have two openings?" Tags="|starsan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23098" CreationDate="2018-07-04T13:12:06.753" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Starsan is a single-component sanitiser and the small chamber is intended for measuring the liquid. You can't see it on your photo, but the chamber is marked with graduations in fluid ounces showing the quantity of liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use it, you remove the cap on the chamber then squeeze the bottle until the chamber fills to the desired level, then stop squeezing. The chamber doesn't drain back into the main part of the bottle, so the measured quantity can be poured into a measured amount of cold water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in the UK, so prefer to use millilitres; also the high dilution rate of Starsan means that a whole chamberful makes more sanitiser than I normally need. So I use a measuring syringe instead of the marks on the chamber. The recommended dilution rate is 1.5mL per litre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6609" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T13:12:06.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23100" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-04T19:57:09.737" Score="3" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to scale a 20 litre batch recipe down to just 4 litres so that i can try the recipe out before committing to a full batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is I'm unsure if my 5 litre demijohn is large enough to use as a fermentation vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its important its Kolcsh style, using Kolsch yeast [i.e. WLP029 or WYEAST 2565]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16192" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T08:44:00.470" Title="What is the smallest fermentation vessel i can use for a given batch volume?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23100" CreationDate="2018-07-04T20:30:28.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a 5L flask for 4L brews. Usually going for pale ales or belgian style ales. But a 1L head room is plenty for those. Similarly, a Kölsch is top-fermenting ale (brewed in Cologne). Remember that the yeast cake will still occupy 200-400mL, which is lost when racking the primary. So I would not expect more than a 3,6L yield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bottom line:&lt;/em&gt; you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="15826" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T08:07:28.623" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T08:07:28.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23100" CreationDate="2018-07-05T09:55:14.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, as a rule of thumb, you keep 20-30% of empty volume on top of your wort for safe fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: as mentioned in another answer, using a blow-off tube instead of a regular bubbler can help prevent overflow of krausen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastEditorUserId="15886" LastEditDate="2018-07-05T18:55:05.097" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T18:55:05.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23100" CreationDate="2018-07-05T14:13:22.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That white labs kölsch yeast is very vigorous and in my experience produced a large krausen during the first couple of days (I pitched a whole pack into 10L of wort at around 17°c). I'd advise using a blow off tube at least until it calms down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T14:13:22.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-05T19:09:52.297" Score="5" ViewCount="2167" Body="&lt;p&gt;according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/jctb.2148&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this research&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Red LED light (630 nm) stimulated cell growth but slightly inhibited&#xA;  ethanol formation. In contrast, Blue LED light (470 nm) significantly&#xA;  inhibited cell growth but stimulated ethanol formation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is it good idea to put our batch under red light exposure for first 3 days and then keep it under blue light for the rest of fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if that bit of LED light can increase the production of ethanol i guess we can have our batch ready sooner, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what if we use red and blue light at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16432" LastEditorUserId="16432" LastEditDate="2018-07-05T19:22:13.830" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T17:15:46.163" Title="how does light affects yeasts" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|light|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23131" CreationDate="2018-07-06T12:32:35.413" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently made a batch of Saison that turned sour. I'm having a hard time pouring it all down the drain, I thought about using it for cooking but I don't know what sort of recipes to look for.&#xA;Does anybody have any idea what else I can do with that batch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-07-11T08:44:41.987" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T08:49:34.633" Title="What to do with my (accidently) sour saison?" Tags="|beer|off-flavor|sour|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23105" CreationDate="2018-07-06T12:49:51.837" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a suggestion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat your beer to 70 deg. Celcius (sorry, I'm metric and don't do Church-of-England units but I'm sure you can convert it to Farenheit yourself) in order to kill yeast and  bacterial infection. About 10 mins at 70 deg. C should do the trick. This will also decarbonate your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cool as quickly as possible, and watch out for hot side aeration!! Once cool, oxygenate, add yeast nutrient, then add pasteurized fruit juice or fresh fruit pulp, re-pitch a low-attenuation, Belgian style yeast (Fermentis S-33 should do) and let ferment. You should end up with a decent Belgian fruit ale. Use fruits that are high in sweetness and flavor. Strawberry, peach or sweet cherries could work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T12:49:51.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23104" CreationDate="2018-07-06T12:52:42.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While light might have a slight effect on cell growth, the question is whether or not it's worth the hassle. Keeping in mind that if this were a good idea, commercial breweries would have adopted the practice. Which they haven't, and as a general principle keep in mind that if nobody's doing it, there are usually good reasons for that. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light (esp.  blue) could, on the other hand, interfere with hops and other delicate complex molecules, causing light struck off-flavors and aromas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T12:52:42.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-06T13:02:39.520" Score="3" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cell growth in a yeast starter is dependent on the volume of starter wort. Palmer states that as a general rule of thumb, a 1 liter starter roughly doubles the cell count while a 3 liter starter about triples it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the fact that Zainashef cites  slightly different figures, I believe that Palmer's rule is an oversimplification. The Mr. Malty calculator distinguishes between a simple starter, an oxygenated simple starter, an intermittently shaken starter, a continuously aerated starter and a stir plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the tab that selects these options doesn't seem to do anything (at least not on my 'puter). I'm also not sure how Mr. Malty deals with inoculation rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So. Are there comparative growth factor estimates available that compare the above starters? And what about reliable growth-vs-volume graphs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any pointers in the right direction would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T17:59:22.823" Title="Cell growth factors in different types of yeast starter" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23078" CreationDate="2018-07-06T13:19:56.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a refractometer is quick, requires only a drop rather than a larger sample, and is therefore easier to use with hot wort. But in my personal experience a hydrometer combined with a glass thermometer is the most reliable combination, always giving you an accurate reading no matter what. They measure the GRAVITY of the wort or beer at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A refractometer, on the other hand, gives you the optical refraction of the wort or beer at whatever temperature the instrument has (a drop of wort or beer assumes the temperature of the instrument very quickly). How refraction relates to gravity depends on a number of factors including the sugar profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know several seasoned pros who use a refractometer only to quickly check for deviations from the norm (i.e. to make sure the batch is doing  more or less what it should) but if they need certainty and accuracy they break out the glassware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the same reason I also never use electronic thermometers. They may drift off calibration and you'll never know it. I've yet to see a glass (mercury) thermometer do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T13:19:56.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23105" CreationDate="2018-07-06T19:24:20.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sourness is essentially acidity, you might try taking a little sample and adding CaCO3 until pH is about 5.9 then tasting it. I tried this on an accidentally soured saison and it made it a bit more drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T19:24:20.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23108" CreationDate="2018-07-07T17:51:34.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're comfortable doing the math yourself you could use some &lt;a href=&quot;https://uolab.groups.et.byu.net/files/bioreactor/hints/bioreactor_equations.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bioreactor equations&lt;/a&gt; to model the yeast growth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start with the assumption that growth is limited by initial population, glucose (which needs to remain under 5 mM), and dissolved oxygen. The vessel size limits the oxygens rate of diffusion into the solution and determines the initial amount of oxygen available. In an optimized setup, glucose would be supplied at a rate relative to the current population size and oxygen supply would be maximized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastEditorUserId="16409" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T17:59:22.823" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T17:59:22.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23114" CreationDate="2018-07-07T22:46:28.073" Score="1" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed an IPA about 3 weeks ago. Everything went fine during fermentation and I've dropped a couple of hop pellets 4 days before bottling into the fermenter as I planned to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When bottling everything went fine and I took a sample to measure the FG (with priming sugar, forgot to take it before).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've put the sample into the fridge (after measuring the FG) and drank it after 3 days, it tasted good! I decided to put a couple of bottles into the fridge, and when taking them out of the closet they were in I saw the following &quot;dust&quot; swimming inside the beer (picture at the end of post).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When tasting the beer it lost its juicy taste that the sample had and it looks a bit darker. From my experience I would say it has this &quot;old&quot; IPA taste and sugary/caramel smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've put the beer into a closet for 4 5 days once bottled, temperature was maybe a bit high (probably reached 80°F at some point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Why did the sample tasted great and the actual beer not as good? Was the room temperature too high? Did I leave too much air in the bottles? Does it have anything to do with this &quot;dust&quot; in suspension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope some of you can help me understand what I did wrong. My other all grain beers went fine but I didn't do any dry hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vxBLO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vxBLO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16121" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T14:30:43.003" Title="Beer has off flavor, sample taken while bottling tasted good" Tags="|beer|off-flavor|dry-hop|ipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23113" CreationDate="2018-07-08T14:30:43.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How old is it? I know from experience just a few days at warm temps like you described 80°F will make a delicate beer taste like it was age weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noticing the green bottles, light struck (skunking) can happen in a matter of minutes.  Even bottling in direct light using clear lines can do it in the short time it passes through the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T14:30:43.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23104" CreationDate="2018-07-08T14:46:15.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;While that paper is interesting. I think it applies more for ethanol production as a fuel rather than beer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;While light can effect yeast In good and bad ways, In general light is bad for beer.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article explains what spectrums of light are worse than others.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/mr-wizard/effect-of-light-on-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/mr-wizard/effect-of-light-on-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T14:46:15.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23104" CreationDate="2018-07-08T17:15:46.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be a good idea to use red light in your yeast starters when you have the most cell growth. Using it in primary may over populate your batch by diverting glucose that would have gone to EtOH production to biomass production unless you use a smaller starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blue light may be useful for maximizing attenuation. If blue light supplies additional energy to the yeast as the paper suggests, they may be able to metabolize more sugar than would be otherwise possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use both and tell us what happens! In plants using the red and blue spectrum has synergistic effects so it could be beneficial depending on how the yeast are utilizing this light as energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T17:15:46.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1159" CreationDate="2018-07-08T21:56:34.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I had a gnarly stuck sparge unlike one I've had before and none of the tips here worked this time. It was a wheat beer and evidently there was not enough rice hulls. I blew into the valve for some time like an ornery child into a soda but nothing came out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately I had to ladle everything (2.5 gallon batch) into another pot and clean out my false bottom tube which was completely blocked with wheat bits. Somehow air passed into it but liquid continued to be blocked until I physically removed the blockage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15916" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T21:56:34.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-09T17:15:05.137" Score="2" ViewCount="876" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a DDH NEIPA recently and it was a great learning experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the aromatics I was looking for but the flavor was bitter. The batch was bound to be wonky because of size limitations because I could only brew a 3-gallon batch on a stovetop. The final beer was SUPER cloudy and had some sediment in it and when bottling a lot ended up settling out of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Primary fermentation was at 72°F then down to 68-66°F then sat at 64-62°F during dry hopping. This was all done in a cool midwest basement with low humidity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall the beer wasn't quite a NEIPA, not really juicy and had sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what variables should I tweak to produce a better result, with less bitterness and smoother body, on my second attempt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Recipe Details:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BREW INFO:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brew Method: BIAB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch Size: 3 gallons (ending kettle volume)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil Size: 3 gallons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil Gravity: 1.060&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Efficiency: 65% (ending kettle)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;YEAST:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wyeast - London Ale III 1318&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starter: No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Form: Liquid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FERMENTABLES:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 lb - American - Pale Ale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.6 lb - Flaked Wheat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.6 lb - Flaked Oats&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.4375 lb - American Carapils&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HOPS:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;El Dorado [15.7% AA]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Citra [11% AA]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Galaxy [14.25% AA]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BOIL:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mashed at 149°F for 60 minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HOPS SCHEDULE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWH&#xA;0.15 oz  El Dorado, Citra, Galaxy &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;40 minutes whirlpool&#xA;0.2 oz  El Dorado, Citra, Galaxy &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 minutes whirlpool&#xA;0.45 oz  El Dorado, Citra, Galaxy  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 minutes whirlpool is shut off&#xA;0.6 oz  El Dorado, Citra, Galaxy  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DH for 8 days with&#xA;0.65 oz El Dorado, Citra, Galaxy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DH for 4 days with&#xA;1 oz El Dorado, Citra, Galaxy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;List of Possible Pain Points&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Efficiency miscalculated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The total amount of hops was too high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry hopped for too long&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much yeast for the batch size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hops scaled incorrectly (should I have used the total AA% to scale?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lack of a cold crash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grain bill was miscalculated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FWH could have been too low/high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a finer mesh hop bag (I had the white one from Northern Brewer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Split hops into smaller bags per variety&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just the issues I've drawn up/done some research on but I'm not too sure what the main culprit could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15277" LastEditorUserId="15277" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T14:11:54.700" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T16:58:15.420" Title="&quot;Debugging&quot; a bitter DDH NEIPA" Tags="|fermentation|off-flavor|dry-hop|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23118" CreationDate="2018-07-10T15:21:21.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Less bitterness - I would drop some of the interim hop additions, I would stick with the FWH just to reduce foaming, and I would eliminate the 40min 0.2oz and 20 min 0.45 oz additions.&#xA;If you want more flavour just up your dry hopping to get the flavours and aromas from the oils without the bitterness from the isomerised alpha acids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to further reduce bitterness if this is not enough then switch the FWH from 11-14%AA hops to a lower 3-5% hop variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, did you do an iodine test on your mash at 60min to ensure full conversion of starch? Can affect the body a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you use any kettle finings such as Protofloc? This can help reduce sedimentation in FV and subsequent bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T15:21:21.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-10T15:39:17.360" Score="6" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current method of fermentation temperature management is submerging my carboy into a large bucket of water. I regulate the temperature of my water with ice packs/frozen water bottles to keep it at the desired temperature. I use a pretty large volume of water so temperature fluctuations are minimal, maybe a degree or two over 24 hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that I am setting the temperature of the water to the desired fermentation temperature but the actual temperature inside the carboy is somewhat higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question(s) are,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, what is the best way to get an accurate temperature of a fermenting wort? I have read some responses to the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5522/how-many-degrees-will-my-carboy-heat-up-as-a-result-of-fermentation-activity&quot;&gt;How many degrees will my carboy heat up as a result of fermentation activity?&lt;/a&gt; and after further research am uncertain that a stick on thermometer will do the job since it is positioned on the glass and likely to be affected by outside temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, is there a way to calculate the appropriate temperature to set the environment, in my case bucket of water but could also be a fridge, to in order to appropriately compensate for the added heat of fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T11:48:34.737" Title="How to compensate for fermentation heat?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature-probe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23120" CreationDate="2018-07-10T18:52:24.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put one of the stick on thermometers on the fermenter and adjust according to what it tells me.  They're very accurate in reflecting fermentation temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T18:52:24.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2114" CreationDate="2018-07-10T22:27:42.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In wine making, degassing unbinds the CO2 from proteins making it easier for the wine to clear completely after fermentation. I actually find the same is true of beer. After secondary fermentation, I use a vacuum pump to degas the beer and it's usually clear within 24 hours. Yes, I end up re-carbonating either in the bottle or keg. Some people accomplish the same thing with cider by using bentonite to bind to the proteins after fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16439" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T22:27:42.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23135" CreationDate="2018-07-10T23:46:21.343" Score="3" ViewCount="1923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to cider brewing (my first batch has just started fermenting). As I'm new and just want to trial the process before getting into something more involved, I used store bought juice (no additives etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got myself a hydrometer, and have measured the OG (1.049) and understand that I will need to measure the FG to calculate the final ABV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this: if I need the FG to calculate the ABV, how does one predict the final outcome? Is the OG any indication of where you'll end up? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't add any sugar to my batch, so worried the ABV might be too low? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when I start my second batch, I'd like to aim for around 10%, so unsure how to work out how much sugar I should add to reach that volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16440" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T21:51:10.270" Title="How to predict ABV in cider?" Tags="|cider|hydrometer|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23128" CreationDate="2018-07-11T01:01:38.277" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to home brewing, and have started out with some cider. I've started out with just store bought apple juice, 4l of which is now fermenting in a demijohn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is secondary racking required for this? My understanding is that secondary racking is to remove lees, but as I'm using store bought juice from a carton (no additives), shouldn't I be able to skip secondary racking? Or is there something I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16440" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T08:28:53.320" Title="Secondary racking for store bought apple juice" Tags="|cider|racking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23125" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-11T07:58:09.517" Score="5" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made three demijohns of elderflower wine, and after fermentation stopped and I racked the wine, then all three demijohns started sucking in the liquid which is in the airlock. We have had some unusually hot weather here in the UK, and I believe the reason for this negative pressure in the demijohn is due to the cooling down at night. Not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The liquid I used in the airlock is last year's bad batch of elderflower wine, all freeze-distilled. It's a rather strong alcoholic thing. You wouldn't want to drink it, but it has worked well as cleaning fluid or insect-repellent airlock juice before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe said, to leave the wine in the demijohn for eight weeks after racking. After ten days, When I saw the airlock was getting sucked in, I panicked and then bottled the wine! Is my wine likely to be ruined? Is there a way to tell so soon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15045" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T23:42:48.833" Title="Airlock sucking inward" Tags="|temperature|airlock|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23123" CreationDate="2018-07-11T08:17:44.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can predict ABV by using the yield calculation, Safcider gives 1% of ABV for 16.3g/l &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1049 ~ 135 g/l &#xA;therefore &#xA;135/16.3 =&amp;gt; 8.2% ABV&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can get more complex by looking through these equations, but that is overkill for a quick homebrew, unless like me you are a bit of a science/maths geek: &lt;a href=&quot;http://realbeer.com/spencer/attenuation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://realbeer.com/spencer/attenuation.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T08:17:44.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23125" CreationDate="2018-07-11T08:23:10.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use vodka in my airlocks if sucking in starts to occur. Freeze distilled stuff should do the trick. To actually get on and answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my wine likely to be ruined? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Probably not&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to tell so soon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;after 1 or more weeks pop one of the bottles and have a try&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience elderflower will get better with some ageing, but is usually very drinkable after 2 - 3 weeks after primary fermentation has finished. Sometimes I drink it earlier cut with lemonade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T08:23:10.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23124" CreationDate="2018-07-11T08:28:53.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lees are not just the pectin precipitate from apple juice, or grape bits or beery crud from the biol, it is mostly your yeast cake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have brewed many things, wine, cider, beers, meads and sometimes I go to secondary, sometimes I lack a spare vessel, or I am lazy that day, or in a rush to make something as a test batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are careful when bottling then racking is not essential, but racking to a secondary if there is a lot of crap at the bottom of your demijohn can make the whole process easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarise, racking is not required but, it can make things easier and/or reduce sediment in bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T08:28:53.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23120" CreationDate="2018-07-11T08:36:14.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your carboy is I imagine not huge, and therefore the temperature in the carboy will not be wildly different from the outside, but a small difference will exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest buying an aquarium thermometer and dropping it in the top through a bung or down the side of the bung. You can then get an idea of the difference between edge and central temp of your carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T08:36:14.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23100" CreationDate="2018-07-11T08:44:00.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;20% headspace should be adequate for your test brew. I would add a blow off tube just to be safe rather than sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T08:44:00.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23105" CreationDate="2018-07-11T08:49:34.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to cook with it you could try making something akin to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/user/4862541/recipe/stoofvlees-flemish-beef-stew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flemish stew&lt;/a&gt;, this usually calls for a darker sour beer, but I imagine it could work well with a sour Saison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just don't add the vinegar to the recipe, most people these days make the stew with a Dubbel and add vinegar, rather than using a Flemish Red such as Rodenbach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T08:49:34.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23125" CreationDate="2018-07-11T13:22:26.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how much head space, just a few degrees drop will pull air through the air lock into the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also that means that fermentation was no longer producing c02.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you bottled slightly late but at the right time. &lt;strong&gt;IMO your wine should be fine.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T13:22:26.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23134" CreationDate="2018-07-11T14:35:17.957" Score="0" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed a 10 gallon batch of a saison wort at a super-dry mash temp (142-145 F). It's currently split between two conical fermenters, one of which has around 150 oz of a tart cherry puree. Rehydrated around 30 grams of yeast with 100 F water + wine yeast nutrient. It foamed during rehydration, so it appeared to be alive. Pitched half into each fermenter. The fermenter with cherries bubbled a bit the next day and then stopped. The fermenter without cherries has yet to bubble at all and it has been 3 days (by bubbling, I mean the blow-out tube doesn't appear to contain any significant positive pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've never lost a batch due to infection, but this is our first time attempting with a wine yeast. How long until we should give up and toss in a French Saison Wyeast? Thanks for any insight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Thanks Philippe and barking.pete, you both were right on the nose! The OG was measured at around 1.045. Now (3-4 days later) it is down to 1.012 in the fermenter without cherries. I've never seen a completely silent fermentation before, but now I know to rely on SG more than apparent activity! Now, let's just hope it squeezes out several more points...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16442" LastEditorUserId="16442" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T00:11:41.847" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T00:11:41.847" Title="How long to wait on Lalvin BM45 wine yeast in beer wort before giving up?" Tags="|fermentation|beer|wine|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23133" CreationDate="2018-07-11T19:33:46.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;bubbling&quot; in the air lock or &quot;blow out tube&quot; is not really a useful measure of fermentation activity or completion. If it happens vigorously bubbling can be a confidence booster but not a particularly accurate indicator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only truly useful measure is Specific Gravity (SG) and then it is better if the original gravity is measured as well as the final gravity. If the specific gravity remains constant for a few days then that is a good indicator that the main fermentation is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if ones patience is really being tested then additional yeast can be added at almost any time. With varying results - some good and some less good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T19:33:46.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23123" CreationDate="2018-07-11T21:51:10.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to the other answers, what you are looking for to determine how much sugar to add to your must (juice) is a Chaptalization calculator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSOry.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSOry.png&quot; alt=&quot;winemakinganalyses.com calculator&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://winemakinganalyses.com/tools/chaptalization_cal.php#AnchorAbvCal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to calculator here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this calculator tells you is that at 1.049 SG, if the must ferments to near complete dryness, you would have an ABV of 6.5%. By increasing the SG to 1.075, if the must ferments to near complete dryness you would have an ABV of 10%. The 9 ounces of sugar you would need to add has a potential ABV of 3.5% when dissolved into 1 gallon of liquid. So the current 6.5% &amp;amp; potential 3.5% add up to 10%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to ferment to complete dryness &amp;amp; then back-sweeten a bit depending on whether you desire a sweet cider or not &amp;amp; also considering whether you want some sugar remaining at bottling to produce carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16374" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T21:51:10.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18712" CreationDate="2018-07-12T02:32:45.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience, probably less extensive than many of the respondents here, is that longer shaking and repeated shaking is needed. It's not just an issue of getting the CO2 to dissolve but rather the formation of carbonic acid needs to take place. That's not a rapid reaction. It's probably one that the presence of yeast might make more rapid, assuming that yeast has outward facing carbonic anhydrase, a fact that I have not yet been able to document. The reaction is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; + H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;O &amp;lt;=&gt; H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;CO&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt; &amp;lt;=&gt; HCO&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;-&lt;/sup&gt; + H&lt;sup&gt;+&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a particular strong acid since it's pKa is in the 6's but it is particularly important in animal physiology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16361" LastEditorUserId="16361" LastEditDate="2018-07-14T03:40:11.360" LastActivityDate="2018-07-14T03:40:11.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6899" CreationDate="2018-07-12T03:53:09.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have more than enough yeast unless you plan to brew more than 20 gallons. The net flow of foam outward was probably sufficient to expel any airborne bacteria. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16361" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T03:53:09.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23118" CreationDate="2018-07-12T15:38:13.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't plug it into any hop utilization software, but those hop quantities don't look very aggressive for a 3 gallon batch. Any chance that you have some hop material getting into the final beer? If any of that &quot;sediment&quot; in your brew was hop material, then you will get a harsh bitterness even in a very low IBU recipe. Not sure how you dry hop, but using paint strainer bags can help quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16419" LastEditorUserId="16419" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T16:58:15.420" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T16:58:15.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22989" CreationDate="2018-07-12T17:28:11.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To complicate things even more... There is also evidence that heavy &quot;over pitching&quot; of yeast will produce similar higher esters to heavy &quot;under pitching&quot;. The rational seems to be that fermentation finishes with less reproduction and a lower number of yeast generations. These earlier generations create more esters due to reduced energy toward reproduction, and are born into a higher sugar environment so they tend to flocculate in mass post fermentation rather than stay in suspension and clean up some remaining esters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plenty of disagreement out there over whether over pitching causes a beer to be cleaner or have more esters. My guess is that it is somewhat strain dependent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16419" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T17:28:11.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23141" CreationDate="2018-07-13T00:12:28.497" Score="2" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed a stout intended to be around 6%. After two weeks the FG is 1.024 but expected to be closer to 1.010. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found when I made the yeast starter (Giga Yeast 011) the yeast clumped and dropped out really quickly, it seemed like the same thing happened very quickly in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that I need to swirl the yeast regularly in the fermenter? Any other considerations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16415" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T01:47:37.050" Title="FG not achieved after two weeks." Tags="|yeast|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23140" CreationDate="2018-07-13T01:47:37.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Could be yeast issue or 1.024 is the terminal gravity.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast: Even though you had some early flocculation. I doubt this is the cause of the stall. You can try to warm it up a little and get the yeast back in suspension to get it to finish out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Already at TG: A common mistake with stouts is using a lot of specialty grains. These dark grains have a large portion of unfermentable sugars. Many calculators don't account for this. Also a high mash temp 156°F+ will make it more unfermentable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Without is having the grain bill, brew process, yeast pitching method etc. It's hard to give a diffinative answer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T01:47:37.050" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23153" CreationDate="2018-07-13T08:56:37.067" Score="2" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that you can calculate specific gravity by dividing the weight of a known volume of liquid in the weight of a known volume of water. &#xA;After reading that I thought about filing my fermenter with 20L(5 gallons) of water and putting them on a scale, then putting my next batch on the same scale, that way I could measure SG as much as I wanted without wasting liquid or risk in contaminating my beer. &#xA;My next thought was &quot;if It's that simple, Why doesn't everyone do it?&quot;&#xA;Why isn't this a common practice? What's the down side? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T13:53:53.063" Title="Why not to calculate specific gravity through weight?" Tags="|fermentation|equipment|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23142" CreationDate="2018-07-13T10:50:34.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because it is not practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is easier? Manipulating a fermenter of 20 kg, or 100 ml of wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a scale, you probably mean a balance. If you have one, good for you. But how much do you pay for a balance which must be able to carry 20 kg or more? Trying to find one only gave me spring balances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And scaling up is not really an option. Big balances are expensive. For a measuring glass and a hydrometer you will pay approximately 15 EUR/$. For that price you will not have a scale that can weigh 20 kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to your objections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brew smaller batches than you, but if I brewed 20 litre, I would not object wasting 100 mL of fermented beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, it is not as if beer gets contaminated when you lift the lid and have a sniff of it, or expose it for a minute to the ambient air. The first time that I did a gravity measurement, I had to use a racking tube, which takes some time, and I even put the measured liquid back into my fermenter. My beer was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work clean, disinfect your measuring tools and be acutely aware of what you are doing, then you will surely not have any contaminated beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T10:50:34.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23087" CreationDate="2018-07-13T10:57:38.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Small fluctuations in temperature should not be causing the corks to pop out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess would be you had excess residual sugar and the yeast is happily turning it to CO2 and forcing out the corks. Either that or you have contamination from another yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campden tablets would have likely reduced the chance of this occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel your best course of action is to either drink it all, or recork the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T10:57:38.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23142" CreationDate="2018-07-13T11:10:54.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A calibrated hydrometer is £5, a refractometer is £30, and my set of calibrated 100Kg scales are ~£150. I can use the same hydrometer on my on anything from 5 litres to 500,000 litres whereas a set of scales would be very size specific to have the degree of accuracy required, and freaking expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a sample tap on my vessels and draw about 300ml a time for gravity, pH, colour and clarity checks. Also, 300ml gives me enough to be able to run all my tests and still have enough left for us all to have a swig or 2 and taste/smell for any discrepancies. A set of scales does not allow me to check clarity, pH taste and smell, I would still have to draw a sample for these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if I had scales for calculating the mass of the vessel and sugar I could work out the OG with this, but changes in SG over time and FG would be difficult as the mass would not change much but the density proportionally changes more than the mass. Allowing for a more accurate reading off very simple equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though I have a hygienic stainless sample tap I still disinfect it with PAA before and after every sample is taken. If in doubt, sanitize, sanitize then sanitize some more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T11:10:54.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16742" CreationDate="2018-07-13T15:24:54.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand what you are talking about. I get that paranoia with every batch. In my case it is with fruit wines, meads, and ciders. Sometimes the mind plays tricks. If you sanitize decently you shouldn't worry to much. People are obsessed with sanitizing and much of it is overblown. People have been making beer, wine, and liquor for ages and until more modern times sanitation was sketchy at best. Up until very recently bleach was used to sanitize and now you would think bleach was born of the devil and will ruin a batch 9-out of 10 times...Which was probably an invented issue by the makers of niche sanitizers to sell more product (though brewing sanitizers are much easier, safer, and non-rinse is a tremendous selling point, and the product is well worth it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I am ready to bulk age a wine, I usually have my moment of paranoia. There is sometimes a slight vinegar smell, and when I take a taste there is a sharp biting aftertaste. It doesn't taste great. A lot of times though, I just pull out a bottle of red wine vinegar and have a smell and taste and immediately go, &quot;Ahh OK, the wine is not vinegar...&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of times the yeast feeding frenzy which creates the alcohol will just overpower a batch leaving you to question both your taste buds and your nose. Most of the time it just needs some time to age. The aging mellows out the bite. Since fermentation should be finished and the product racked off the yeast, all the flavors will start to come together and you will be surprised with the result. It's kind of the magical brewing process. I've had a fruit mead that I was paranoid about, and thought was horrible and a disaster after secondary fermentation, especially because honey is a somewhat expensive ingredient. I bulk aged it and after six months I was wondering about it and took a taste, and it was really good. After a year, I finally bottled it and it was the best batch I had ever made. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just have some faith in yourself and the process, and don't start throwing things until it's fully complete!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16445" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T15:24:54.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23149" CreationDate="2018-07-13T16:37:14.403" Score="0" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fermenting a NEIPA at the moment. It's 5 days in. At first the fermenter snelled great, the usual sweet and hoppy smell but now it smells weird like a cheap lager that's been left out all night. Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on dry hopping it tomorrow. I do 12l batches and they usual finish up in 5 days and I let them sit and dry hop fir another 4 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16040" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T19:06:54.917" Title="WLP066 London Fog fermenting smell" Tags="|yeast|aroma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23051" CreationDate="2018-07-13T18:26:44.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across this article recently and found it useful. &#xA;Thought I'd pass it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/methods/carbonation-methods/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/methods/carbonation-methods/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13721" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T18:26:44.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23147" CreationDate="2018-07-13T19:06:54.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So there is no definitive way I will be able to tell whether your beer is having an issue or not from what you have stated above. However, it doesn't sound like one of the biggies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Butter - Sweet Corn - Metallic (penny) - Rotten Eggs - Bananas - Skunk - Cardboard - Musty / mildewy - Cloves - Green Apples - Vomit - Vinegar - Cheese - Plastic Band-aid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the fact that 'cheap lager that has been left out all night' is at least not close to one of these should at least give you some hope. It may be a combination of two or more of those above but I'll remain optimistic and assume that the smell you are getting is one of the many strange (but normal) smells given off by our little friends. There are many online resources to help with off flavors and smells online. My search brought up this one which seemed to explain each of the smells I knew of and more:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.belgiansmaak.com/off-flavours-in-beer-off-flavours/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.belgiansmaak.com/off-flavours-in-beer-off-flavours/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Good luck and cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13721" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T19:06:54.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23163" CreationDate="2018-07-15T12:43:43.230" Score="1" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;Newbie homebrewer working with store bought apple juice for my first test batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long should fermentation take? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 5 days ago I added my yeast to 4 litres of apple juice, and it looks like the fermentation is already coming to a stop. It has slowed to the odd intermittent bubble. Is fermentation already complete? I was expecting fermentation to take two weeks or so, but has this been impacted by the low volume (only 4 litres)? Also, I added in way too much yeast to begin with: might this have shortened the length of fermentation (ie. burned through the sugar too quickly)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16440" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T11:49:18.693" Title="Length of fermentation for cider" Tags="|fermentation|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23151" CreationDate="2018-07-15T13:35:47.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's very likely fermentation is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example 1 gallon juice and 1 pack of bakers yeast only takes 3-4 days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T13:35:47.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23142" CreationDate="2018-07-15T13:53:53.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes the math is possible with accurate readings.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically for every molecule of cO2 produced 1 molecule of ethanol is produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By calculating the reduction of weight and factoring cO2 absorption in solution you can calculate ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the problem. &lt;strong&gt;You need a scale that will be accurate within 1 gram&lt;/strong&gt;. This may be viable for a 1 gallon batch using a postage scale or something similar. But for a 5 gallon and greater volumes these scales are very expensive. For example using a digital bathroom scale can easily be +/- 1lb when weighing 50lb, and swing 2-4 lb around 200lb just from temperature changes in the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T13:53:53.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-16T07:25:14.680" Score="2" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the possible way to brew batch like 1500 liter with 100 g of yeast ?&#xA;And how many starter steps need to go and how long will it take to get target pitch rate ? &#xA;Thanks all !!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S I'm new member !!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16450" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T05:26:49.170" Title="Starters for 1500 litre brewing with 100 g of Dry Yeast" Tags="|yeast|brewing|starter|pitching|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23155" CreationDate="2018-07-16T15:55:07.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scaling conservatively (1:10) you would need 1.5L, 15L, and 150L stages. Actual growth rate will be determined by how well you can keep the solution aerated. Are you producing biofuel? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T15:55:07.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-16T16:19:05.003" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was brewing nettle wine in a fairly amateurish way. The ingredients were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stinging nettle leafs/leaves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lotsa water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lotsa sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some lemon juice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry baker's yeast intended for baking pastries&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fermented the concoction for one week, then pasteurized it by nearly boiling.&#xA;The end result is thicker than expected, and had the texture and taste of egg liqueur. If I didn't make it myself, I could be fooled into thinking that it is egg liqueur.&#xA;Did I accidentally brew nettle liqueur instead of nettle wine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15438" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T08:49:35.470" Title="Did I accidentally brew nettle liqueur?" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23157" CreationDate="2018-07-16T16:45:09.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you &quot;nearly boiled&quot; post fermentation most your alcohol is probably gone as it vaporizes around 180°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you now have &lt;strong&gt;Nettle Syrup&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-07-16T20:01:13.240" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T20:01:13.240" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23162" CreationDate="2018-07-16T17:30:45.547" Score="2" ViewCount="1294" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's basic knowledge that alcoholic beverages are made by letting the yeast eat sugar and poop out alcoholic and carbon-dioxide, in a process known as fermentation. And since sugar only means sucrose, glucose, maltose and similar organic chemicals, it is a no-brainer that artificial sweeteners won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why I had an idea. Since I'm an amateur who lacks professional brewing equipment, I cannot always be certain that the yeast is really dead after I pasteurize my wines. So adding sugar post-fermentation to the wine isn't very smart, since if I botched the pasteurization and failed to kill the yeast, I may trigger fermentation again. So I thought - why not add artificial sweeteners PRIOR to fermentation &lt;em&gt;(in addition to the normal sugar, off course)&lt;/em&gt;? If the artificial sweetener is unfermentable, it'll work, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sweetener I had in mind was Süssina's artificial sweetener, whose chemical composition is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maltodextrin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sodium saccharinate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sodium cyclamate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sodium bicarbonate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monosodium citrate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, will adding all this to the wine prior to fermentation prevent/hijack fermentation? After all, all this sodium... But what about adding it post-fermentation? Are these chemicals unfermentable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15438" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T11:40:57.427" Title="What happens to artificial sweeteners in wine?" Tags="|wine|sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23155" CreationDate="2018-07-17T03:56:20.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need about 13,500 billion cells for 375 gallons of 1.050 wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats about 750 grams of dry yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To propagate 100g to your pitch rate you can do a single 50 gallon starter. Which will cause a 3-4 fold growth resulting in trub with cell equivalents to 800-1600 grams of dry yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-07-17T05:26:49.170" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T05:26:49.170" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23157" CreationDate="2018-07-17T08:49:35.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pasteurizing temperature (for milk at least) and the boiling point of alcohol lay fairly close to each other, but the boiling point of alcohol just a bit higher. You could be lucky and hit it right in between, otherwise it isn't pasteurized properly or you boiled off some percentage of the alcohol content. Keep in mind bakers yeast is intended to produce a lot CO2 to make bread fluffy, and not so much alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you do any measurements to get a general idea of the alcohol content? Measurements are key in homebrewing. Is it supposed to be 4% or more close 40% (not possible, but hey, shoot for the stars right)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T08:49:35.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23159" CreationDate="2018-07-17T11:33:31.247" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking &quot;nothing happens&quot; to artificial sweeteners in the initial wine fermentation (eg the first month). I have fermented various beverages with artificial sweeteners and in general the fermentation proceeded as per normal. I have not noticed any real reduction (or increase) in fermentation due to added sweeteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can also be said that over time (many months or years) the sensation of &quot;sweetness&quot; produced by most artificial sweeteners can subside or perhaps merge with the underlying flavours of the wine. For example a batch of white sparkling wine I made with some sour grapes and glucose and Stevia produced a small but noticeable &quot;saccharine&quot; taste in the first six months after bottling. But at the one year stage it had nicely merged into the flavour of the wine. This gradual change in taste can make it difficult to judge how much sweetener to initially add. I usually &quot;add less&quot; than more until I have established a working receipe.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can add lactose (a simple sugar that is not fermented by Saccharomyces) instead of &quot;artificial&quot; sweeteners.  Stevia extract is a modern development which in small amounts gives a hint of sweetness and is &quot;organic&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not used the product suggested above. I note it contains maltodextrin which is a commonly available but mild sweetener usually found in beer wort and adds &quot;body&quot; to the drink. Bicarbonate and citrate are alkali and acid buffering agents and can be rejected as not so useful in wine fermentations. The main sweeteners are the saccharine and the cyclamate. Both of these have had &quot;negative health reports&quot; in the past but are still in use in various countries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2018-07-17T11:40:57.427" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T11:40:57.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23151" CreationDate="2018-07-17T11:49:18.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;primary fermentation is often over in (say) 5 days. The best way to check fermentation has finished is to take several successive specific gravity readings with a hydrometer (or a refractometer) and if the reading is stable for two days then the fermentation can be deemed to be finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be worth noting that store boght juice can be pasteurised and so be &quot;sterile&quot; with no chemical additions or the juice may contain preservatives that can interfere with fermentation. That can be worth checking before buying. Most store bought apple juice in the UK seems to be amazing uniform in sugar content and is usually pasteurised. One might suspect it was all premixed ready for industrial cider production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth noting that nicer cider is obtained by letting the young cider age for 12-18 months in the bottle before consumption. Some of the nicest cider I have ever tasted was made from freshly crushed apple juice and no added yeast at all. Just that which was in/on the apples and crushing press. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T11:49:18.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23441" CreationDate="2018-07-18T14:10:27.673" Score="7" ViewCount="1245" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does cold crashing kombucha work in terms of removing yeast and creating a brighter product? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a continuous brew process where I decant from the primary fermenter in to a secondary fermenter where I add fresh ingredients to infuse flavor. After removing the ingredients I was wondering if I could use a glycol chiller to drop the yeast similar to what I'm reading about beer. I'm not a huge fan of cloudy kombucha with a pile of sediment on the bottom of the bottle/glass - so I'd love to solve that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm doing the second ferment in a brite tank now since it's an anaerobic process and it's where I get the carbonation. I can easily add a chiller to the tank, so I was thinking of trying it. Just wondered if anyone had experience or an educated guess as to the outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16454" LastEditorUserId="16454" LastEditDate="2018-07-18T14:16:28.993" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T19:23:20.920" Title="Cold crashing kombucha" Tags="|cold-crash|kombucha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-18T15:08:13.783" Score="1" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am distilling. I had air bubbles every 5 seconds and a week later became every 2 and a half minutes. Do I wait till there is none whatsoever or consider it done. Thanks for the help Kris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16455" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T16:02:30.530" Title="Air Bubbles slowing down" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23169" CreationDate="2018-07-18T22:47:04.203" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first brew ever so I'm still learning. I've got two gallons of elderflower wine bubbling now in the carboys for about a week (transferred there after a week long primary in a bucket). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that the carboys already formed a couple milimeters of that goopy yeast sediment on the bottom. I've heard that it can introduce some funky flavours into my brew. How worried should I be about that? Should I aim to rack it again to rid of that bottom-yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16398" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T17:39:45.467" Title="After a week of secondary fermentation of my wine yeast sediment already formed in the carboys. Does it mean I should rack it again soon?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|sediment|country-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23166" CreationDate="2018-07-19T15:52:57.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bubbles in the air lock are a nice confidence booster but are not a good measure of completion of fermentation. Measure the specific gravity (with a hydrometer or refractometer) at the start and then take a series of readings (say) after 10 days. If the SG is the same over a few days then the fermentation has slowed to a point where one might consider it &quot;stopped&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A correctly made up mash of glucose and Turbo Yeast is generally finished fermenting in 7 -10 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that a good &quot;rule of thumb&quot; for room temperature fermentation is that they take between 7 to 10 days to &quot;complete&quot;. Leaving the fermentation for 14 days will rarely do any harm but may be a longer time than is actually needed. If in doubt and no hydrometer is available then 10 days should be a good period of time to ensure most of the sugars are used up. If the ambient temperature is below 20C then one might increase fermentation time by a day for every 5C below 20C. Again this is a very general approximation and its always best to check with a hydrometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for distillation - that subject is generally beyond this site's remit. But good luck and - reject the first 50cc as it may contain any methanol produced in the mash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T15:52:57.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23167" CreationDate="2018-07-19T17:39:45.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No need to worry.  Since you already racked your wine once (from primary to secondary) you already gotten rid of most of gross lees.  Fine lees are less problematic, and can remain for a few weeks without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may rack your wine again to clarify it further.  People usually have a racking schedule, and rack as many times as they want (depends on type of wine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/21907/how-to-know-when-to-rack-off-gross-lees&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://winemakersacademy.com/gross-vs-fine-lees&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T17:39:45.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23171" CreationDate="2018-07-20T07:06:29.970" Score="3" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you guys have best plan to store longer for sugar wort to propagate yeast ?&#xA;I usually take wort after boiling step during brewing and stored at 5 C inside 20 liter container.&#xA;Or&#xA;Boil with DME for starter ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16450" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T15:30:08.657" Title="How to store sugar wort?" Tags="|wort|sugar|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23170" CreationDate="2018-07-20T07:26:37.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One easy and convenient way to store sugary wort in order to make futur starter is to freeze it.&#xA;You can store your frozen wort in your freezer for a long time (i'd say at least 6 month).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advice you to separate your wort into little smaller parts so that you can only unfreeze what's needed when it's needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T07:26:37.160" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23170" CreationDate="2018-07-20T09:16:28.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard pressure cooking the wort is a great way to make your wort storable for couple of months: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.themadfermentationist.com/2014/11/pressure-canning-starter-wort.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.themadfermentationist.com/2014/11/pressure-canning-starter-wort.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never tried it myself, due to the lack of a pressure cooker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T09:16:28.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-20T11:18:44.613" Score="3" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a house that happens to have a grape vine producing lots of fruit. They are quite small (approx 12mm diameter) and not very sweet, but black in colour. I do not know the varietal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me if its worth trying to make wine out of them? All the &quot;make your own wine&quot; guides seem to omit statements about general suitably of the source fruit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;leaves:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWdjw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWdjw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;leaves as requested&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15602" LastEditorUserId="15602" LastEditDate="2018-07-26T07:51:36.283" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T07:51:36.283" Title="Making wine from vine grapes" Tags="|wine|fruit-wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23170" CreationDate="2018-07-20T13:33:38.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keg it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put your boiled wort right into a corney while hot. This sanitizes the keg much like heat does in canning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Store it with your beer in the keezer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a fresh sanitizes picnic tap and line when drawing for use. Attach cO2 at 2 psi just enough to push it. Then remove a fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If done right you don't even need a boil when doing starters. But bringing the wort to a boil for 3-4 minutes and chilling insures sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'll do 5 gallon wort brews, or use second running s and bump to 1.040 with extracts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T13:33:38.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23173" CreationDate="2018-07-20T13:45:34.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First let me say you can pretty much make wine from all grapes, just some of that wine will be better than others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had a picture of the leaves, I could probably tell if it's wine grapes or not, but I am guessing that it's just table grapes. I think the easiest way to guess that wine grapes get powdery mildew quite easily and table grapes (bred from north American grapes vs. European grapes for wine grapes) don't get powdery mildew. &lt;a href=&quot;http://articles.extension.org/pages/31529/powdery-mildew-of-grapes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a good website&lt;/a&gt; showing what it looks like on grapes. If they are wine grapes, they should have it by now (unless you have been spraying chemicals to prevent or get rid of it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other key indicator you won't be able to figure out until the grapes fully ripen. When they are ripe, squeeze the grape and if the skin slips off the inner part of the grape, then they are table grapes. If the skin just spits and juice comes out, wine grapes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about 99% sure you have a table grape since that's what most people outside of wine growing regions have access to and they are much more rugged than wine grapes. My bet is that you have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://doubleavineyards.com/concord&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Concord&lt;/a&gt;, which is the most common backyard grape in the USA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can make wine from them. You might have to add some sugar since table grapes don't get as sweet as wine grapes, but it should make a decent wine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-07-20T16:39:25.520" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T16:39:25.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23173" CreationDate="2018-07-20T14:57:39.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they are not sweet, they are most probably not very good to make wine.  Some grapes are good to be eaten, but do not produce good wine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried making wine from sweet dark grapes that looked like wine grapes but were not (forgot the name), so I ended up throwing it out, the lack of acidity and taste were not up to par.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try a small quantity, add sugar if the grapes are not sweet enough.  If you find the result good enough, you may buy some wine grapes and mix them together next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth trying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T14:57:39.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-20T16:55:51.860" Score="2" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking into building a copper immersion chiller for use on my next batch of beer. I plan on doing a sour ale. Will the low PH of the wort have any negative affect on the chiller? Will it cause the metal to leech extra particles, possibly causing off flavors? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastActivityDate="2018-07-21T13:18:55.197" Title="Acidic Wort Affect on Immersion Chiller and Flavor" Tags="|sour|wort-chiller|ph|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23177" CreationDate="2018-07-20T19:04:26.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The &lt;em&gt;comparatively&lt;/em&gt; low pH will not leach the copper in any appreciable way into a wort solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T19:04:26.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23177" CreationDate="2018-07-20T19:37:48.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that the acidity does not have an influence on copper, but it does on copper oxidation, which you do not want in your beer. Always clean and dry your chiller very well, and store it dry so that it does not oxidise (turns green).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T19:37:48.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23173" CreationDate="2018-07-20T21:51:07.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wine grapes have a really thick pith inside and make seeds, table grapes generally have less pith and are seedless varieties.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Wine_grape_diagram_en.svg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diagram&lt;/a&gt;. Harvesting them when ripe is the hard part, you have to take a random sample and check the sugar levels with refractometer. Iirc, 31 brix or so is fully ripe; less suitable varieties will peak at lower values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here are the exact parameters for wine grape harvest that would make good wine:  &quot;Brix: &gt;24 ; TotalAcid .58 - .65 ; PH 3.4 – 3.6&quot; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chanticleerwine.com/assets/client/File/Harvest-Information-Article.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastEditorUserId="16409" LastEditDate="2018-07-20T22:01:37.493" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T22:01:37.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23170" CreationDate="2018-07-21T05:15:47.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The method I’ve yet only heard of, used by breweries and homebrewers alike, is to &lt;em&gt;boil the wort for 10-15 minutes and freeze it&lt;/em&gt;. This would also is in line with traditional German Reinheitsgebot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I use DME for starters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Some yeast labs suggests using a wort of 1.040 to avoid ethanol production when making a starter. Higher gravity may inhibit cell growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="15826" LastEditDate="2018-07-22T15:30:08.657" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T15:30:08.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23177" CreationDate="2018-07-21T13:18:55.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned with the oxidation effecting the wort. Simply give it a 5 minute starsan soak before using, it will be bright and shinny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast actually use a little copper as nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-07-21T13:18:55.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-21T16:37:53.733" Score="1" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just completed my first batch of hard cider. I was told to backsweeten it, which I did with Erythritol to taste about 3 weeks ago. then to put carbonation drops in each bottle before adding the backsweetened cider. I'm using Grolsch bottles. Was I wrong to both backsweeten and add carbonation drops?? Did I ruin one gallon of cider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16459" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T13:49:36.573" Title="Backsweetening cider and carbonation drops" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23187" CreationDate="2018-07-21T20:36:03.423" Score="3" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finished lagering and my recipe/ method says after lagering until desired clarity is reached then  bottle and add required amount of sugar and condition at room temperature for at least a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m not bottling as I have Corny keg setup, so I can add CO2 artificially to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it still worth leaving the keg at room temperature for any length of time, before chilling to serving temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;Alex&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16192" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T13:46:07.457" Title="Is it necessary to condition if kegging in Cornelius with CO2?" Tags="|kegging|bottle-conditioning|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23185" CreationDate="2018-07-22T10:30:48.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand the description &quot;and condition at room temperature for at least a week&quot; it is for the yeast to eat the sugar to carbonate the beer. That is called &quot;bottle conditioning&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &quot;Beer &amp;amp; Brewing Magazine&quot; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bottle conditioning, when done properly, can result in a beer with a&#xA;  finer, silkier texture of carbonation, superior foam retention, more&#xA;  complex flavors, longer shelf life, and better aging ability than&#xA;  beers that are “force carbonated.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/iKSxvCoDdk/bottle-conditioning/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/iKSxvCoDdk/bottle-conditioning/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do the same in kegs, in Beersmith there are two carbonisation methods &quot;keg with priming agent&quot;: table sugar and corn sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e0SLf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e0SLf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Set Carbonation in Beersmith 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastEditorUserId="8277" LastEditDate="2018-07-22T10:37:01.703" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T10:37:01.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23185" CreationDate="2018-07-22T13:41:02.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't add sugar, don't bottle, don't cellar.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once fermentation and fining is complete, keg it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Force carbonation is next. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of methods you can do to shorten time etc. I recommend this for your first time; put keg in cooler, attach 15 psi. In about 5 days the beer is ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer: &lt;strong&gt;No,&lt;/strong&gt; there is no benifiet to leaving a kegged beer for any length of time at room temperature.&#xA;Warmer beer actually doesn't absorb cO2 as well as cold beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Some do practice natural carbonation in the keg. Then you treat the keg just as you would a bottle for conditioning. Then attach to co2 for serving.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-07-22T13:46:07.457" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T13:46:07.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23184" CreationDate="2018-07-22T13:49:36.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Erythritol is non fermentable. You'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T13:49:36.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23192" CreationDate="2018-07-22T16:42:31.000" Score="3" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just finished preparing my first fermented drink ever (Kvass) and I used a Mason jar to store the preparation during the 2 days of the fermentation process as advised by the various guides I found. However I've come to realized after 10 minutes that the jar's rubber seal is in fact leaking carbon dioxide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this detrimental to the final product, will it still be safe to drink ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have properly sterilized the jar itself (though it might not be required for the fermentation but rather for the conservation of the drink) and I don't really mind it not being very fizzy therefore I was wondering if it was still safe to drink it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any other stronger sealable container at the moment that isn't made of plastic so I'll have to go with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16462" LastEditorUserId="16462" LastEditDate="2018-07-24T13:47:09.797" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T13:47:09.797" Title="Fermentation container leaking carbon dioxide" Tags="|fermentation|carbonation|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23189" CreationDate="2018-07-22T20:52:12.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mason jars are not designed to hold pressure. They are designed to hold vacuum and burb pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T20:52:12.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23206" CreationDate="2018-07-23T04:03:51.723" Score="0" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will give two examples of yeast cell count.&#xA;First one is 0.34 B cells/ml in 6 liters of wort starter with just a few amount of slurry cake.&#xA;2nd one is 1.46 B cells/ml in 1 liter of starter including Wort+Slurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when it comes to total number of yeast cell calculation,do i need to multiply yeast count with 6 liters of wort or a thin layer of slurry which is 300 ml ??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So total yeast count is 2040 billion cells in 6 liters or 102 billion cells in 300 ml of yeast slurry ??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16450" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T13:34:22.620" Title="Total Yeast Cell Count" Tags="|first-time-brewer|wort|yeast-starters|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23189" CreationDate="2018-07-23T09:45:07.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;kvass made in such a way is generally safe to drink. Leaking CO2 does not usually cause any sanitary problems, just a decrease in carbonation of the drink. Kvass is generally enjoyed not very carbonated anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2018-07-23T16:44:13.243" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T16:44:13.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7297" CreationDate="2018-07-24T06:11:06.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think yeast count totally accounts for slurry only and not the wort. And also yeast count before shaking and after shaking almost nearly the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16450" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T06:11:06.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-24T17:26:16.883" Score="4" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell:  moved, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/wp-content/uploads/image0031.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Star San&lt;/a&gt; bottle broke, got on a bunch of supplies including my stainless steel spoon.  Now the spoon is rough where the sanitizer spilled and slightly discolored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spoon was a gift and has no manufacturer markings or the like, but it appears to be stainless steel.  Is it toast, or is this just cosmetic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iUYgnl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iUYgnl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nYwmWl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nYwmWl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15617" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T03:38:03.863" Title="Star San ate my spoon - can it still be used?" Tags="|equipment|sanitizer|chemistry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23194" CreationDate="2018-07-25T03:38:03.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will function fine as is. You just have a thick oxide layer there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to restore, you can polish it using 0000 steel wool. Once to the polish you want passify the stainless steel by spraying with normal starsan mixture (or dip it) and let air dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T03:38:03.863" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23197" CreationDate="2018-07-25T14:04:33.383" Score="5" ViewCount="1700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found myself becoming quite fond of &quot;thick&quot; and &quot;juicy&quot; IPAs and DIPAs. Beers with a viscosity to them that feels somewhat syrupy and leaving a great mouthfeel when drunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to brew my own recipes which turn out with this thickness to them. So my question is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What techniques are there to brewing thick beers?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it come down to the malt bill, the ratio of grist to water in the mash, the hops, boil time, adding lactose or some other additive? Do they all affect it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T16:32:16.683" Title="How to increase thickness in beer?" Tags="|techniques|ipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23196" CreationDate="2018-07-25T16:32:16.683" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thick mouthfeel and body can come from a few sources and even more methods to manipulate them. Most how to brew books have an entire section dedicated to the topic. But here's some bullet points to piont you in the right direction for further reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thicker body is from protients, unfermentables and starch.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Protiens:&lt;/strong&gt; These are manipulated with the grain types and mash methods to preseve the proteins through the brew process.&#xA;Most focus on how it effects the head but also in turn adds body. Cara malts and oats are used mostly. Unflocculated yeast also falls in this category and adds body and creamy mouth feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unfermentables:&lt;/strong&gt; These come from high mash temperatures to favor alpha-amylase and specialty grains in the crystal &#xA;, Carmel and roasted families. &#xA;Also Unfermentable sugars like lactos can be used, most Sweet/Milk stouts get thier sweetness and a lot of thier body from this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Starch:&lt;/strong&gt; I little goes a long ways. Also a key part of a lot of hazy beers we've seen recently. You get more starch by halting the mash before it's complete or steeping oats or other grains. A lot of starch can be added by flame out addition of oats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen in recent commercial examples of many &quot;IPAs&quot; being really sweet and completely unbalanced in sweet/bitter for the style, it's almost like the birth of a new style that would be best desribed as a &lt;strong&gt;Hoppy Sweet Pale&lt;/strong&gt;. Like a combo of a Sweet/Milk Stout and IPA less the dark grains or a Pale Barley Wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T16:32:16.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-25T22:16:40.570" Score="5" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a real problem with this years Zinfandel.  It got delivered at 29 brix which I think is the source of the problem.  I added 13% water to try to get it down around 25 brix at the 72 hour mark after pitching yeast on day one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It fermented its way down to 2 brix.  I tried 3-4 different yeast starters (apple juice, highly effective yeasts, space heaters, etc) to get it down to fully dry, but none of it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it's 9 months later after fermentation and I have a lot of 2 brix wine.  It is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; sweet to the taste.  I don't have access to other dry wine to blend with in this quantity.  So what should I do? Are there any other products I could try to alter this into?  Port? Sherry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any experience in really under-fermented wine?  I would love to hear what you did and how it turned out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further Information&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The comments below were asking about my yeast selection.  So here's more info.  Initially, I used a blend of BM45 and BDX yeast.  Towards the end of fermentation, when it was really slowing down.  I did my first yeast starter.  I used 60g of Uvaferm 43 and followed this &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.eckraus.com/making-a-wine-yeast-starter-to-restart-a-stuck-fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;eckraus&lt;/a&gt; tutorial.  Basically, I took a small amount of must, added water and sugar, and poured them in the main jugs after 24 hours.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that didn't work, a couple weeks later, I did another yeast starter.  I pitched another 60g of Uvaferm 43 into 1 gallon of store-bought apple juice and added and additional 30% water.  At the 12 hour mark. I added another 30% of the wine.  Then at the 24 hour mark, I added all that back into the main jugs of wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of that worked.  You can read the whole story on my journal blog &lt;a href=&quot;http://thirstyvine.com/2017-vintage-zinfandel/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  It's now 9 months later and I need to bottle soon.  Can I still do a yeast restart?  Any reason to think that doing it again would work on the third try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3341" LastEditorUserId="3341" LastEditDate="2018-08-01T00:29:37.130" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T00:29:37.130" Title="Unfermented Wine - What to do?" Tags="|wine|stuck-fermentation|sweetness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23198" CreationDate="2018-07-26T14:19:56.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should have dryed out using any wine yeast, so either the yeast gave up or it can't access the sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly using some pectinase will free up those sugars to allow complete fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I would make a new starter but prime it with 50% of your 12.5% ABV must and use a lot of yeast nutrients.&#xA;When the starter is at high krausen pitch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T14:19:56.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17833" CreationDate="2018-07-27T19:57:37.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think 30°C(86°F) will be far too hot for a lager, even for a California common yeast such as Wyeast 2112 with a max temp of 20°C(68°F). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's not a lager but the warmest yeast strain I know of is Wyeast 3724 (Belgian Saison) which is quite happy in the temperatures you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An inexpensive chest freezer and a temperature controller would allow you to do a traditional lager and you will have excellent control over temperature. You can get chest freezers small enough to tuck into a closet now a days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16472" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T17:47:44.207" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T17:47:44.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17597" CreationDate="2018-07-27T20:39:55.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An auto-syphon will make a big difference. One more thing I do in addition is tie a small, fine nylon mesh bag to the end of the hose inside the bottling bucket. Just sanitize the bag like you would any brewing equipment. In my experience this catches an astonishing amount of hop material, even when using an auto-syphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, this has worked very well for me in conjunction with an autosyphon but you may get away with it just using the spigot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16472" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T20:39:55.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23198" CreationDate="2018-07-28T14:24:58.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to use Pro Restart. It saved me a couple of times from stuck fermentations of overly ripe grapes. It's specifically engineered for stuck or sluggish ferments. There is a pretty rigorous protocol to follow but it works. You can get it at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scottlab.com/product-100.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scott Labs&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T14:24:58.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23207" CreationDate="2018-07-29T15:55:44.160" Score="2" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest objection to no chill brewing I have heard so far was that the extended content time of the hops with the wort will create off flavors and add IBUs.&#xA;When I boil my wort I usually put the hops in a straining bag so I won't have to filter it later. &#xA;Does removing the begs after the boil, and then let it cool naturally negates the aforementioned effect? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T19:32:30.180" Title="Removing the hops after the boil when no chilling" Tags="|hops|hop-utilization|no-chill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23204" CreationDate="2018-07-29T19:55:49.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always boil the hops normally (without a bag), then filter the boiling hot wort through cheese cloth to get the hops and protein out. After that the still very hot wort goes in a closed fermenting bucket and stays on the counter over night to get to pitching temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works fine, but don't try to let unfermented wort sit for a couple of days; chances are too big to catch a contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T17:46:51.727" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T17:46:51.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23191" CreationDate="2018-07-30T13:34:22.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are combining the starters you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.34B/mL @ 6L = 2040 Billion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.46B/mL @ 1L = 1460 Billion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total Yeast Cells Combined = 3500 Billion @ 7L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After combining the starters, cold crashing will cause most of the yeast to drop out and form a nice, compact yeat cake/slurry at the bottom. There are going to be residual yeast cells in solution above the cake, however, in my experience after several days in the fridge almost all the yeast is at the bottom. I decant the excess solution, leaving a small amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example, if I cold crashed this 7L starter for a few days, decanted 5 L off the top I would then say for &lt;strong&gt;simplicity&lt;/strong&gt; sake that I have 3500 Billion @ 2L. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16472" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T13:34:22.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23204" CreationDate="2018-07-30T13:55:09.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No chill, slow chill = more IBU from late hop additions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No chill concerns for hops is late additions will continue to isomerize until below 175°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing the hops will help, but any alpha acids already released in the wort will continue to isomerize. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some recent studies show that 175°F isn't like a switch, but temperature and time follow a curve for alpha acid to iso-alpha acid conversion. Even as low as 145°F has 5-10% conversion over 30-60 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hop additions boiled for 45min or more would already be fully converted and not effected by a slow chill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No chill or slow chill isn't for all beer styles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Consider this hypothetical recipe with same AA hops for both bitter and aroma additions.&#xA; &lt;em&gt;Target IBU 80, 5oz boil addition, 5oz flame out.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;When chilled quick reaches 80 IBU. When chilled slow taking more than 10 hours to reach below 145°F could reach 160 IBU. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-08-01T19:32:30.180" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T19:32:30.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23081" CreationDate="2018-07-30T16:33:17.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my disconnects and kegs were new, they took a bit of force to couple.  Not enough that it warranted a hammer, but I had to lean into them.  A little bit of keg lube around the gasket on the posts let them slide on with ease.  Now that they're worn in a bit, even that isn't necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6057" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T16:33:17.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23211" CreationDate="2018-07-30T23:14:09.123" Score="4" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a semi-sweet (a little less sweet than Crabbies) ginger beer that is about 4.5 to 5.0% alcohol, and my plan was that in the end, I want it to be between 1.020 and 1.025 s.g..  Therefore I would add sugars to the &quot;wort&quot; till I have a specific gravity of about 1.055 or 1.060 depending what the limit of alcohol tolerance for the yeast is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a yeast I could use that stops fermenting by 5.0% so that I don't end up with &quot;bottle bombs&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there a better way to accomplish this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16479" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T09:38:30.493" Title="What yeast should I use to make a semi-sweet Ginger Beer with about 5% ABV" Tags="|yeast|beer|ginger-beer|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23210" CreationDate="2018-07-31T06:42:26.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does not work like that,&#xA;No yeast will stop exactly at 5% (unless you kill it), this way of doing things is &lt;strong&gt;not safe&lt;/strong&gt; !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First solution is to make your wort so that you end up with the correct among of alcohol after complete fermentation, and afterwards add non-fermentable sugars to your fermented wort.&#xA;Some usual non-fermentables are maltodextrin or lactose sugars, or stevia, Xylitol, sucralose for artificial ones. (one ressource about ciders: &lt;a href=&quot;http://diyhardcider.com/best-hard-cider-artificial-sweeteners-and-sugar-substitutes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://diyhardcider.com/best-hard-cider-artificial-sweeteners-and-sugar-substitutes/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. if you start with a 20L wort at 1.050 and your yeast takes your wort to 1.010 (giving approx 5.25% ABV), then you should of non-fermentable sugars untill you reach 1.025 (or simply desired sweetness, especially if using artificial sweeteners than much less)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other way could be to stop your fermentation at some point by pasteurizing (thus killing all the yeast in tour wort) or somehow inhibit the yeast by adding potassium sorbate (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/how-to-backsweeten-mead-and-cider/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/how-to-backsweeten-mead-and-cider/&lt;/a&gt;), but here you cannot be 100% sure that fermentation will never happen, there could always be residual active yeast cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. prepare a 20L wort with gravity 1.060 and stop it(kill the yeast) at 1.020, which would leave you with 5.2% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastEditorUserId="15886" LastEditDate="2018-07-31T09:38:30.493" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T09:38:30.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23213" CreationDate="2018-08-01T02:24:34.977" Score="7" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take left over yeast from a wash and dump it in new mash, and repeat, eventually the yeast stop reproducing due to extensive budding scars. So after 4-12 batches people buy new yeast... if not right away. But I was just thinking, why is that so different from sour dough? Bakers can keep thier yeast alive indefinitely by feeding them flour when they are hungry. And if you think about it logically yeast have to be able to reproduce indefinitely, otherwise there wouldn't be any yeast. They would have gone extinct in weeks if they could only handle several batches.. I think they only excessively reproduce by budding under the harsh circumstances brewing beer. But I wasn't able to find that specific information online, nor what it is about brewing beer specifically that kills them. I'm wondering if they can mitigate budding damage by reproducing normally. And I wonder if to get more out of a line of yeast one could do some simple tricks like instead of tossing them straight from one mash to the next, put them into dough in between?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15655" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T00:06:50.287" Title="What is necessary to keep yeast happy and healthy?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23212" CreationDate="2018-08-01T15:30:50.417" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can use yeast indefinitely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However doing so takes some work. Keeping a strain unmutated requires a lab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A specific generation is usually only good for 2-3 fermentations. This is the equivalent of pitching wort right on top of the previous batches cake. There's little to no growth if not oxygenated and the yeast go right back to feeding. But like most living things they die in time and the cycle triggers seem to be the peaks and valleys of available oxygen and food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get several more runs by washing slurry of dead yeast and pitching a growth amount which is the same by volume as pitching from new yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with keeping a culture and growing it over and over is mutations. In even a few generations you will influence the yeast by your growth methods.  Yeast will begin to favor the sugars you give it. It may become more or less flocculat based on how you wash. It may start producing esters not typical of the strain when denied nutrients or otherwise stressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why yeast makers cryo store the samples and grow each run from a single loop sample of the original strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-08-02T02:58:18.877" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T02:58:18.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-02T01:57:37.770" Score="1" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;For reference: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamarind&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tamarind&lt;/a&gt;. I recently saw this fruit at the store today and thought it smelled interesting so I investigated. I've decided to brew my very first batch of beer as a tamarind saison as a result, because I think the sweet and sour qualities will work well in a saison with honey in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my friend recommended an amount based on previous experience in his childhood, I settled on 2 lbs of the stuff (and I think that's enough based on the small taste I had!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, I'm not really sure when to add it to the wort. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2adTHsg4co&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; goes into detail about how to make juice out of it, but I could also add them whole in a muslin bag during the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find anything online about using tamarinds in a brew, and I don't want to ruin the wort by adding them whole or in juice form too soon or too late. If anyone has experience with using tamarinds for a brew, I'd greatly appreciate some advice on how to prepare them and at what stage to add them to the brew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16151" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T14:02:14.773" Title="Brewing with tamarinds" Tags="|beer|first-time-brewer|ingredients|wort|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23214" CreationDate="2018-08-02T02:29:43.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not used it, nor familiar with its chemical make up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safest approach would be to, freeze it, thaw then puree it and add as a flame out addition.&#xA;Doing it this way will insure that it's sanitary and minimize risk of natural organisms that calm this fruit home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many herbs and fruits have some weird properties that don't really work well with brewing process. For example adding hibiscus to a mash will completely halt saccharification as it has an enzyme inhibitor. Pineapple has an enzyme that can leave your beer unable to form a head of not denatured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T02:29:43.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23217" CreationDate="2018-08-02T11:51:15.480" Score="1" ViewCount="1499" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast: &lt;strong&gt;Mangrove Jack's M44 - US West Coast&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I brewed an IPA recipe but had a couple of issues when it came to pitching the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first was that I could not get the wort temperature below 23.9ºC (75F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second was that I cooled the re-hydrated yeast too far, to 19.1ºC (66F), as I expected to get the wort down to 21ºC-ish (70F). When I could not get the wort temperature any lower, after using the chiller for almost an hour, I decided to warm the yeast up slightly to 21-22ºC (70-72F) so I could pitch at a slightly higher than normal temperature. Mistakenly I warmed the yeast far too quick by placing the re-hydrated container of yeast in a saucepan of water on the hob. In the space of 10-15 seconds it warmed from 19.1ºC (66F) to 22.3ºC (72F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At pitching the temps were:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wort - 23.7ºC (75F)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yeast - 22.3ºC (72F)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;18 hours later the bucket appears to be doing nothing. The airlock is inactive and the lid is not even bulging slightly to indicate a build up of pressure. I have ordered another sachet of M44 yeast which will hopefully arrive tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the higher than optimum pitching temperature likely to delay the start of the primary fermentation?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the temperature shock of quickly warming the yeast by 3.2ºC (5F) in 10-15 seconds have likely damaged the yeast?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long should I wait before determining whether I should pitch the additional yeast?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I pitch another sachet of yeast will there be any effects on the end flavour? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T15:42:21.437" Title="Failed primary fementation - repitch?" Tags="|yeast|pitch|repitch|pitching|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23216" CreationDate="2018-08-02T12:13:24.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my perspective, you're taking this temperature thing way too seriously. I mean, it is important to respect temperatures when brewing, (especially for mashing) but in the fermentation process, you should not see any significant differences within the range of 2-3°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;your yeast performs best in the range 18-23 degrees, a 0.9°C difference should not change anything (are you even sure that your thermometer handles that kind of precision ?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3.2°C is not really a shock for your yeast, it is not that much&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wait another day or two and test your gravity, no bubbling does not mean no fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the volume of wort, for a 20L wort, 2 packages of dry yeast is not too much.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that your problem comes from somewhere else:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure your yeast was not expired ?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Did you make a starter to pitch the correct amount ?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Did you aerate your wort correctly ?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Maybe your wort is fermenting? check your SG after few days&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastEditorUserId="15886" LastEditDate="2018-08-02T13:39:14.420" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T13:39:14.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23216" CreationDate="2018-08-02T13:56:18.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the water in the sauce pan was hotter than 80°F. I'm thinking it was since it only took a few seconds for a few° rise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What mostlikley happened is most of the yeast in closest contact to the pan water was instantly killed. The other yeast also would have experienced a rapid expansion damaging the cell walls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repitch it. This time just put your yeast next to your fermentor until they both have the same temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T13:56:18.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23214" CreationDate="2018-08-02T14:02:14.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider what will happen to the sweet and sour balance when the fruit and honey undergo fermentation. The fructose and glucose will be converted into alcohol. They shouldn't leave any noticable sweetness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sourness from the tamarind is tartaric acid. This can be used in small quantities in brewing to affect mash pH. I don't know what will happen to this but presumably it will stick around as your wort should be on the acidic side so won't neutralise it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was you, and this was my first beer (and I was intent on putting tamarinds in it) I'd try and split it into three or more batches. One without any tamarind, and a couple with different amounts, and maybe one with another fruit as a control. Also, if I was you I'd add the fruit as a secondary fermentation. This has some advantages, such as a level of alcohol already existant in the beer to help prevent infection, and should also help retain the fruit flavours better. You could pasteurise it or freeze it, or make an infusion with vodka or something (though that's more usually done with herbs etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T14:02:14.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23222" CreationDate="2018-08-03T14:49:26.770" Score="5" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard a lot about the different stages of hopping in the mash, but I have only heard the term dry hopping. Are there different terms given to the different stages of hopping, or are they all dry hopping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16488" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T14:06:38.557" Title="Names for when you use hops" Tags="|beer|hops|techniques|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23220" CreationDate="2018-08-03T14:58:56.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping occurs post fermentation and includes all the aromatics and other volitales, but no bitter iso-alpha acids. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bittering hops are added at various stages of the boiling process. At increased temperatures (145F min, 170F optimum) the alpha acids in hops are isomerized which increases the IBU of the beer. Some bittering hops are added at the beginning of a boil, some are added at various time intervals, some at flame out - this is because the temperature of the mash determines the rate of isomerization and lower temperatures will leave more volitale components. Some hops - such as Hallertau - are added near the end of the boil to evaporate undesireable flavors out of the hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastEditorUserId="16409" LastEditDate="2018-08-22T14:06:38.557" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T14:06:38.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23220" CreationDate="2018-08-03T15:02:19.817" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Brewtarget (brewing software):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash hopping: adding hop in the mash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First wort: adding hop in the boiling kettle and then lautering the wort in the kettle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil: Adding hop when the wort boils, at different times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aroma: apparently adding hops after flameout, also called hop stand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry hop of course, which is for someone who starts with brewing rather confusing, as you add hops always to a fluid. Also see &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/14526/dry-hop-etymology&quot;&gt;Dry hop etymology&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-08-03T15:02:19.817" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23220" CreationDate="2018-08-03T15:24:22.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping refers to adding hops in the fermentation vessel.  Using a mesh bag or not.  During or at end of fermentation.  Hops is removed before bottling or after a certain number of days.  This technique is mostly used for flavoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common hopping is during boil, where the number of minutes is used to know when to add the hops to the wort.  This technique is used for bittering (early addition) and flavoring (late addition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-08-03T15:24:22.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-05T19:53:29.813" Score="5" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to add some in my mead because we have the best saffron in our country.&#xA;anyone ever tried to add saffron in their mead, wine or beer during first or second fermentation?&#xA;i know it can definitely give your drink a nice orange colour but how does it taste like? how about aroma?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16432" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T19:26:40.040" Title="saffron in home brewing - taste, aroma and colour" Tags="|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23227" CreationDate="2018-08-07T14:58:17.827" Score="0" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have started off a Cider kit. It was close to the BBD. &#xA;It only actively foamed for a day or so and looked finished or dead (but in those two days has dropped from 1040 to 1018 however I didnt know this until the end of the story). I did put the original yeast in when it was a bit hot and assumed that I had killed the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then found a leak from my new fermentation bucket, the supplier has sent me a new one but I would like to nurse this through and get it in the pressure barrel in four days time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added some more yeast and there was a massive foam-up. Its still hissing. &#xA;Is it worth saving, in your considered opinions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15602" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T16:58:12.343" Title="Is it worth saving my brew?" Tags="|yeast|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23216" CreationDate="2018-08-07T15:42:21.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An update to my original question in case anyone stumbles across this in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Around 24-36 hours after asking this question the primary fermentation began - indicated by a krausen which formed at the top. This is the slowest start to a fermentation I have had and I can only assume is down to conditions described in the OP damaging the yeast somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A further 24 hours after that the new yeast arrived. Given that the primary fermentation had begun I opted not to pitch the additional yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there was still no build up of pressure or any airlock activity. After a much closer inspection just now - 5 days after pitching - I noticed the seal where my probe thermometer breaches the lid has split slightly with a 1mm crack on either side of the probe. I could see straight through to the wort below. I have hastily applied silicone around the gap to create a seal and have placed my other lid in sterilization fluid, and will switch them around shortly just in case the drying silicone can cause any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From here all I can do is hope that the beer hasn't been contaminated and carry on as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To the next brew...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the issues of cooling in hot weather I am going to look into the options of a heat exchanger / plate chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T15:42:21.437" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23225" CreationDate="2018-08-07T16:59:55.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is missing a lot of details which might make it definitely answerable. Some of the required details will need more time to find out. Here is some info to help with your decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Infections&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A beer or cider can be ruined if fermentation stalls and bacterial growth takes over. If this happens the brew will taste bad. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersyndicate.com/blog/tag/how-to-identify-infected-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; provides a detailed overview about infections and what they mean. Infections are not the end of the world. People brewed cider for thousands of years without doing anything to specifically prevent infections. If you suspect it is infected, AND it tastes bad AFTER fermentation finishes, throw it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I then found a leak from my new fermentation bucket, the supplier has sent me a new one but I would like to nurse this through and get it in the pressure barrel in four days time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be a route for infections to get into your cider, but maybe you lucked out. Time will tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it worth saving?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I have four fermentors, and fermentor space is not a limiting factor for me. I also brew more than I can drink, so I value variety over quantity. My personal setup means that any suspect brew is always worth saving unless I am certain it has gone bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have a single fermentor, your situation is a little different. It is definitely worth giving this beer a little more time, until you know for sure it is bad. Don't rush into a decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14166" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T16:59:55.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-08T01:58:59.240" Score="2" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can any damage be done when air lock is removed for about 3 to5 minutes. I repitched yeast this morning.what can I expect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T16:58:31.423" Title="Removed air lock ,while in the first day of fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10731" CreationDate="2018-08-08T02:08:25.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a total noob at wine making, but i think you would need wine or champagne yeast and yeast nutrient to start it since tea leaves wouldn't have much unless you want to mix it in with a juice. Not sure if you know about airtight containers with an airlock but thats needed to for making in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An air lock is not necessary. Use a screw on lid but leave it loose enough so the gas can escape and keep the gnats out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16497" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T02:08:25.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23228" CreationDate="2018-08-08T16:40:34.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry, your beer or wine will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you have air in your fermenter anyway, and air always has some wild yeasts and bacteria. But when you pitch your yeast, it quickly overpowers anything else that may be in there. It uses up the oxygen and creates alcohol, making the whole environment unfriendly to many other microbes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides later keeping wild yeast and bacteria out, the airlock also blocks insects like fruit flies, which can be attracted by the fermentation. You probably didn't get a bunch of flies in your fermenter in 3 to 5 minutes, and even if you did, you can just take them out when you bottle or keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T16:40:34.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23225" CreationDate="2018-08-08T16:58:12.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This brew is probably still viable. I would advise not dumping it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cider is often fermented with the wild yeast found on the apple skins - that enters the brew when pressed, so adding &quot;extra&quot; yeast to your brew will probably do little other than increase the yeast population. I would not be overly worried about infection. If you leave the brew for (say) 14 days and then transfer to bottles or your preferred container, the cider should be ready in (say) six months. It can often be drunk before that time but from 6 moths to about a year it usually improves greatly in taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T16:58:12.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23228" CreationDate="2018-08-08T16:58:31.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;What can I expect?&quot;&#xA;Beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously, let's step through this: Normal air is about 78% Nitrogen which has an atomic mass of about 14.  CO2 has an atomic mass of about 44.  CO2 is much heavier than air.  So, there will be a cushion of CO2 under any air that got into your fermenter, as long as you didn't agitate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T16:58:31.423" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23235" CreationDate="2018-08-09T01:24:28.040" Score="1" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the Mash? Is this the boiling of the grains, Hops and all the Fermentables. If this isn't it please school me up, with the Kiss program. Or in other words keep it simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-08-09T16:00:04.350" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T16:00:04.350" Title="The Mashing proccess" Tags="|fermentation|mash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23234" CreationDate="2018-08-09T03:27:14.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Super simple. You combine hot water and crushed malted barley for about an hour. This turns the starches into sugar that you can collect and later boil for beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's all covered in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mashing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T03:27:14.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2018-08-09T15:26:35.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thought I would add this to the thread. Amazon has these Stainless Steel Mesh containers that look perfect for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B06Y2F4BMY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Micron-Filter-Stainless-Cornelius-Brewing/dp/B06Y2F4BMY/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12991" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T15:26:35.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18951" CreationDate="2018-08-10T10:33:02.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the original question. Absolutely. If you live somewhere where there is no beer available, but there is a quality near beer such as Holsten or Becks, you can make a quality beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe:&#xA;5 gallon plastic water jug,&#xA;16 liters of holsten(48 x 355ml)&#xA;1-1.5 kg of light brown sugar,&#xA;1 pack of Nottingham or Windsor yeast,&#xA;Stopper at the top of jug to allow fermentation,&#xA;Wait 1-2 weeks,&#xA;Rack or transfer from original jug to secondary clean jug leaving yeast residue behind.&#xA;Add 1cup white sugar and mix well to prime and restore carbonation,&#xA;Bottle in ikea resealable bottles,&#xA;Wait 3 weeks,&#xA;Fantastic beer - better than cheap store bought beer because of the natural carbonation and full bodied flavors that comes from Holsten which starts out as a quality regular beer but the alcohol is removed. and the cost is less than a buck a beer.&#xA;My experience is 12 years of approx. 1500 to 2000 beers/year&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16507" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T10:33:02.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23224" CreationDate="2018-08-10T15:58:34.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once made a clone recipe of Dogfish Head's Midas Touch that called for a small saffron addition with about 15 minutes left in the boil. In that recipe in particular, the saffron replaced the traditional aroma hop addition, so naturally aroma was impacted the most in this instance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as taste, I would do a test with something else in the kitchen. Maybe try adding it to some plain rice (or something with not much flavor) and see how the saffron effects the taste and smell. Using white rice as a &quot;blank canvas&quot; will also show you how the color will be effected. Mess around with different amounts and different &quot;exposure&quot; lengths to really narrow down the desired application of saffron that you want for your mead or beer. This can go a long way in developing recipes with not so traditional ingredients (and your don't run the risk of ruining an entire batch). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a side note: I would hazard against using too much saffron. A little bit goes a long way, so 2-3 stems are probably all you'll need for a 5-gallon batch (which is good because it's expensive!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14427" LastEditorUserId="14427" LastEditDate="2018-08-10T19:26:40.040" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T19:26:40.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-10T21:55:53.277" Score="1" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is .163178144 (.1632)  the factor for deciding the ABV %  from the percentage fermentability of any fermentable beer solid, in 5 gallons  ?&#xA;cheers. DD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T21:49:26.053" Title="Percentage fermentable ABV calc' Factor," Tags="|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23239" CreationDate="2018-08-10T23:09:54.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are you u doing to get your readings,I use a hydromete.&#xA;For me it is the easiest.I recommend.Go the Brewers friend website,it has a ABV calculator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T23:09:54.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23239" CreationDate="2018-08-10T23:36:27.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, not to my understanding.&lt;/strong&gt; I believe the hydrometer often used is a saccharometer. It’s calibrated to measure sugar content and it’s effect in boyency. As far as total dissolved solids (TDS) go it’s generally assumed these are fermentable sugars in wort. But this because increasingly untrue for darker beers. In my experience large amounts of dark and heavily roasted malts will produce more TDS that cannot be fermented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the common equation is:&#xA;ABV = OG - FG * 131&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were OG and FG is original gravity and final gravity respectively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T23:36:27.743" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23243" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-12T13:55:49.957" Score="3" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have read that we can culture yeast from commercial  bottle conditioned beers, So is it not the same that we can use a bottle of our own beer that has been made from a brew that used a White labs or Wyeast culture ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastEditorUserId="12043" LastEditDate="2018-09-09T17:01:49.433" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T04:01:00.497" Title="Culture yeast from bottles" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23243" CreationDate="2018-08-12T14:38:16.367" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, there's no reason you can't do this. Realistically, though, since you're talking about a beer you've brewed yourself, there are other times in the process where it is much easier to collect yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, after primary fermentation is done, it is usually pretty easy (depending on your equipment) to collect some of the yeast cake deposited after fermentation. Or you could collect some fermenting wort &lt;em&gt;during&lt;/em&gt; primary and save for reuse, or save a portion of a starter (if you use one). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you want to culture a yeast from an older batch, or a batch of a friend's beer, it's entirely possible. The caveat is that you have to spend some time and effort to grow the yeast up to a usable quantity, and the surviving cells from which your new culture will derive may not be nearly as healthy as fresher yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T14:38:16.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-11T19:01:00.043" Score="6" ViewCount="1037" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have fresh hops and I wish to dry them for storage in vacuum packed bags. Which methods can I use for drying them, and what are the differences in quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16516" OwnerDisplayName="Rouse" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T18:31:09.883" Title="Beer Brewing: How do I dry fresh hops?" Tags="|brewing|hops|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23255" CreationDate="2018-08-13T01:21:52.310" Score="3" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am concerned I may overpressurize my bottles. I cold crashed the beer (my first time cold crashing) and never brought it back to room temp before bottling. I used an online calculator to calculate priming sugar. Without thinking I inputted the &lt;em&gt;current&lt;/em&gt; temperature of the beer at bottle time which was about 35°F and finished bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I carbonate this beer at room temp or do I need to keep it at 35°F? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned that as the beer warms to room temp the volume of beer will increase. Combine that with the fact that the natural CO2 that is already in the beer from initial fermentation will be released as the beer warms. Then of course the priming sugar will be carbonated. I'm worried that I'm overthinking this. I feel the increase in volume as the beer warms is probably minuscule as well as the CO2 already in the beer from fermentation. I just wanted to make sure and ask others that may have done this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the beer is just a blonde ale. OG: 1.056 and FG: 1.011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14436" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-09-19T14:11:15.527" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T14:13:58.573" Title="Bottle Bombs or Paranoia" Tags="|bottling|temperature|bottle-conditioning|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23248" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-13T12:11:36.730" Score="4" ViewCount="1089" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suppose I did not adequately rinse the sodium percarbonate solution from my fermenter/bottles. Could this a) make somebody ill or b) affect the flavour of the beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I left sodium percarbonate solution in my demijohn to soak for 20 minutes, a residue was left at the bottom (sodium carbonate?) which did not rinse out with water. In the end I resorted to white vinegar to get rid of it. a) Does his sediment pose any threat to health/flavour and b) how can I avoid this nuisance in future?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For bonus points, what if I'd used sodium/potassium metabisulfite?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16518" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T16:46:08.433" Title="Sodium Percarbonate safety" Tags="|cleaning|sanitizer|sterilization|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23245" CreationDate="2018-08-13T14:22:33.287" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the American homebrewer's association, there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/how-to-harvest-prepare-and-store-homegrown-hops/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3 main techniques to dry out your hops&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Food dehydrator&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Using a food dehydrator is the easiest way to dry out your hops as it ensures air movement but does not get excessively hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Well-ventilated oven&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can use your oven to dry your hops by spreading them out on a pan. You will need to make sure that you get adequate air flow through the oven, watching closely by checking on them at least every 20 minutes. The temperature should never exceed 140°F (60°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hop drying screen&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have a small amount of hops to dry, the easiest way to do so is spread them out over a window screen or a house air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After drying, you can vacuum seal your dry hop in some freezer bags for packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2018-08-14T06:10:31.540" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T06:10:31.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5194" CreationDate="2018-08-13T16:51:59.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a small tub of potassium or sodium metabisulphite off of eBay , a half  teaspoon of this with a pinch of citric acid really does the job for 5 gallons.Each tablet weighs .44 gm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastEditorUserId="15231" LastEditDate="2018-09-03T20:54:14.200" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T20:54:14.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-11T18:51:25.690" Score="3" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live close to a farm and I have access to fresh barley. How would I go forward to create barley malt, so I can brew for example a Pale Ale beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16516" OwnerDisplayName="Rouse" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T02:12:37.240" Title="How do I create, dry or roast my own barley malt for beer?" Tags="|brewing|malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-08-15T19:59:22.577" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23253" CreationDate="2018-08-13T09:08:38.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to soak the grain for 2-3 days first. Just put it in some kind of tub of cold (!) water, and change the water once or twice a day to provide oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that's done, lay the wet grains out in a layer 5-10cm deep in room temperature. Now it will sprout: rootlets and the shoot will start coming out. It will also start heating up. Turn it a couple of times a day to make the sprouting even, and to prevent the rootlets from turning the whole thing into a massive cake of tangled grain. Touch it to make sure it's not getting too hot. If it does, douse with cold water, or turn the temperature in the room down. Let it grow until the shoot (not the rootlets) is about half the length of the grain. This will probably take about a week, depending on temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you need to dry it. You can do this in a hot air oven (beware of going too hot, above 80C) if you don't have very much grain. Another solution is to make a wooden frame with a fly netting bottom and a hot air fan. Or you can dry on the floor of a heated room. Or even in the sun (watch out for birds and mice). All you really need here is to get the water out by any means possible, to dry fast enough to prevent mould (if you get mould, throw everything away!), and to not go so hot you kill the enzymes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expect to get a lot of character and flavour, but lower efficiency than from commercial malts. Mastering malting is a lifetime project, but unless you fail to sprout or burn the enzymes out you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; get beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13240" OwnerDisplayName="Lars Marius Garshol" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T09:08:38.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23247" CreationDate="2018-08-14T06:44:52.320" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this calculator&lt;/a&gt;, adding 1.4oz of sugar to 2gal at 35°F is equivalent to adding 5.4oz at 68°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 35°F the disolved CO2 is around 1.61vol whereas at 68°F it is 0.86vol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case the CO2 level should be around 2.9vol after carbonation at 68°F, it is very fizzy for a regular Ale (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;carbonation guidelines&lt;/a&gt; ), but it should be fine and not create bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be of the safe side, start carbonating normally at room temp, after few days to a week, open one beer to check for gushing and repeat after 2, 3 and 4 weeks. If you see a lot of gushing, open all the beers, put everything back to the carboy, let ferment and repeat priming &amp;amp; bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-09-19T14:13:58.573" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T14:13:58.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23283" CreationDate="2018-08-14T16:45:12.850" Score="3" ViewCount="1910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to understand malt bills a bit more. I'm currently reading &quot;Malt - A Practical Guide from Field to Brewhouse&quot; by John Mallet. I'm particularly interested in the section describing the process to calculate a malt bill to achieve a specific Degrees Plato gravity. While I enjoy creating recipes and whatever comes out at the end comes out at the end, I would like to be able to accurately create beer recipes to a specific target gravity, and thus to a more accurate ABV. In one of the first steps it includes the quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Next I calculate the total extract needed. By reviewing the ASBC tables we find that 12°P wort contains 32.45 pounds of extract per bbl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work in metric and converting that to metric isn't an issue, nor is scaling it to my brew size an issue. However, I am unable to find this reference table anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can anyone provide me with a table which lists out a weight of extract per volume of wort to achieve a specific gravity or °P reading?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either imperial, lbs per bbl, or metric, kg per HL, would be appreciated. I can make any necessary conversions myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2018-08-21T02:52:52.533" Title="Malt bills - Potential extract weight per volume of wort required for target gravity" Tags="|specific-gravity|malt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23264" CreationDate="2018-08-14T23:44:15.657" Score="2" ViewCount="1144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to all this, but is my intent to brew an oaked apple maple acerglyn by slightly altering &lt;a href=&quot;http://meadist.com/making-mead/mead-recipes/sparkling-oaked-acerglyn-maple-mead-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this recipe.&lt;/a&gt; My plan is to brew about five gallons--as per the recipe--but utilize an appropriate amount of campden tablets to preemptively sterilize the must 24 hours before pitching the yeast. However, this recipe calls for adding a quarter gallon of maple syrup before and ten days after pitching. What steps can I take to make sure that the second dose of maple syrup is properly sterile? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I plan on using EC-1118 yeast and after primary fermentation, the ABV should be hovering somewhere around 17-19%. This is when I intend to add about 750mL of apple cider. Should I use a campden tablet to sterilize the cider (which will likely be unpasteurized) or will the alcohol content prevent any bacteria from spreading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16524" LastEditorUserId="16524" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T00:05:12.367" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T21:03:42.530" Title="Proper use of campden tablets in a recipe that calls for the staggered addition of a sugar source" Tags="|mead|campden|sterilization|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-15T00:39:01.133" Score="1" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I`m brewing a pilsner at slightly higher temperature levels and has been two and a half weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I rack and then bottle if my hydrometer reading are stable?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or should I rack and then store in fridge for extended period before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16525" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T14:11:54.557" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T23:10:11.320" Title="Pilsner racking before bottling" Tags="|process|racking|pilsner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23266" CreationDate="2018-08-15T06:28:56.463" Score="2" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation stops a few hours after pitching, and seems dormant for half a day, before resuming activity. This only happens in one out of two fermentation buckets, both pitched the same WLP400 (Wit yeast) from the same starter, and residing in the same temperature-controlled fermentation kloset. The monitoring equipment (a couple of PLAATOs) has been tested, and presumably works as expected (i.e. is registering activity when emulated). What is going on here? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Filling the wort and pouring the yeast was alternated between the buckets, to ensure roughly similar conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figure 1: Bucket where fermentation seems dormant. Fermentation activity shown by the green line, temperature  control shown by the white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tL8Kw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tL8Kw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bucket where fermentation seems dormant&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figure 2: Bucket with expected fermentation activity. Fermentation activity shown by the green line, temperature  control shown by the white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KE6lZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KE6lZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bucket with expected fermentation activity&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13277" LastEditorUserId="13277" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T22:39:18.890" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T23:12:21.670" Title="Fermentation stops after a few hours, then resumes after half a day" Tags="|fermentation|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23262" CreationDate="2018-08-15T14:16:44.217" Score="1" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only make beer using extract with grain, usually that amounts from 1/2 to 1 lb of grain in 5 gallon batches.  Generally I have used the rolling pin method of smashing the grain in a plastic bag.&#xA;Now, I have bought 10 lbs of grain to save a little money over the cost for 1 lb bags and am wondering if using a Cuisinart Coffee Burr Mill would work on the course setting?  I use a strainer bag to hold the grain, with is very fine mesh.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T13:20:33.807" Title="Cuisinart Burr Grinder for small amounts of grain?" Tags="|grain|mill|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23261" CreationDate="2018-08-15T16:05:04.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll answer specifically for this type of mill.  Since it uses grind plates, it should work.  I would run a handful through to see what it looks like.  Remember, you want the hulls to be more or less whole and the meat of the grain to be crushed a bit (smaller pieces mean more surface area to volume ratio).  This might be fine for small batches but it you run too much through, you'll be running the risk of burning out your motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where I give you the advice that you don't want to hear but know it coming anyway.  If you want to save money on brewing ingredients, stop buying malt extract and buy malt and convert the carbohydrates to sugars yourself. Yep, learn about all grain brewing... specifically batch sparging, which is much simpler then fly sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T16:05:04.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23256" CreationDate="2018-08-15T16:36:12.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After much more scouring of the web googling the question in various and sometimes outlandish ways I stumbled across the following forum thread from 2006 which appears to answer my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?4636-Extract-Tables&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?4636-Extract-Tables&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone provided a table for the degrees plato and lbs. extract per BBl and kgs extract per hl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have expanded is slightly and present the table here should anyone in the future require this knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Degrees    | Potential | kg Extract    | lbs. Extract | lbs. Extract     | lbs. Extract&#xA;Plato (°P) | Gravity   | per hL (100L) | per US BBL   | per Canadian BBL | per UK BBL&#xA;-----------------------+---------------+-----------------------------------------------&#xA;8            1.032     | 8.27          | 21.36          20.69              29.79&#xA;9            1.036     | 9.34          | 24.12          23.36              33.64&#xA;10           1.040     | 10.42         | 26.90          26.05              37.52&#xA;11           1.044     | 11.50         | 29.70          28.77              41.42&#xA;12           1.048     | 12.59         | 32.52          31.50              45.36&#xA;13           1.053     | 13.69         | 35.36          34.25              49.32&#xA;14           1.057     | 14.80         | 38.22          37.02              53.31&#xA;15           1.061     | 15.92         | 41.10          39.81              57.32&#xA;16           1.065     | 17.04         | 44.00          42.62              61.37&#xA;17           1.070     | 18.17         | 46.92          45.44              65.44&#xA;18           1.074     | 19.31         | 49.86          48.29              69.54&#xA;19           1.079     | 20.46         | 52.82          51.16              73.67&#xA;20           1.083     | 21.61         | 55.80          54.05              77.82&#xA;21           1.087     | 22.77         | 58.80          56.95              82.01&#xA;22           1.092     | 23.94         | 61.82          59.88              86.22&#xA;23           1.096     | 25.12         | 64.86          62.82              90.46&#xA;24           1.101     | 26.30         | 67.92          65.78              94.73&#xA;25           1.106     | 27.50         | 71.00          68.77              99.02&#xA;26           1.110     | 28.70         | 74.10          71.77              103.35&#xA;27           1.115     | 29.91         | 77.22          74.79              107.70&#xA;28           1.120     | 31.12         | 80.36          77.83              112.08&#xA;29           1.124     | 32.35         | 83.52          80.89              116.49&#xA;30           1.129     | 33.58         | 86.70          83.97              120.92&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The potential gravity is calculated using the following formula*:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;SG = 1 + ( plato / (258.6 – ( (plato/258.2) * 227.1) ) )&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/plato-to-sg-conversion-chart/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/plato-to-sg-conversion-chart/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastEditorUserId="3032" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T16:54:58.553" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T16:54:58.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23257" CreationDate="2018-08-15T19:43:40.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK... Let's think about this critically.  Suppose your maple syrup had some stray yeast in it.  What would happen? Well, yeast eats sugars and burbs CO2 and pees alcohol.  What does that mean for your maple syrup? It means that your maple syrup would be all alcohol and the side of the jug would be split open (so, it wouldn't matter if it was alcohol or not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as far as your cider goes, the same thing would apply only not quite as violently. I would heat the cider to about 160 degrees F and hold it for about 15 minutes if I were worried (actually, I'd just dump it in and not worry). I would do nothing with the maple syrup except pour it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you planning on the cider fermenting? If not, you can add Potasium Bisulfate to it to kill off the strange yeast that may have made a home in the jug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bacteria isn't what causes most food spoilage, yeast and mold is. There's a reason that sugar was used in wound cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T19:43:40.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23248" CreationDate="2018-08-15T21:35:04.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sodium percarbonate forms hydrogen peroxide which eventually breaks down into oxygen and water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1a. I think you'd have to leave a lot in. Apparently hydrogen peroxide is used as an antiseptic mouthwash so it must be acceptable to ingest a small amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1b. I've read that not rinsing &quot;oxy&quot; type cleaners means oxygen can be created in beer, which can result in oxidisation and associated off flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try to make sure the powder is dissolved as much as possible before putting it in the demijohn. Otherwise I just rinse a bit more vigorously, and live with it if I can't remove completely. I don't think it's contributed any off flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Presumably since this is used in preparation of wine and cider it is not considered to be harmful to health. However in these contexts it's used to kill wild yeast, I think it's not generally considered to be an effective antibacterial agent for the purposes of sterilisation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T21:35:04.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23260" CreationDate="2018-08-16T00:23:46.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had to guess the stalled fermentor was the last to be filled and got less of the wort nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When splitting a single wort into two fermentations. It's important to alternate the filling of the vessels about 10-20% fill before alternating. This blends the wort, so each vessel gets a share of the nutrients that can drop in the cold break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Possibly more oxygen than the other fermentor causing a longer growth / lag phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T23:12:21.670" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T23:12:21.670" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23261" CreationDate="2018-08-16T00:31:18.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's just your specialty grains intended for steeping. You can grind with anything it to near flour since it will be in a grain bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T00:31:18.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23261" CreationDate="2018-08-16T13:20:33.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Coffee Burr Mill should work, no need to grind it too fine, if you can adjust it, go for coarse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like, at any local brew store, for about 50$, you can buy a manual grain mill like this one: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cast-Iron-Hand-Crank-Table-Grain-Corn-Wheat-Flour-Grinding-Mill-Grinder/282943987519?epid=1056971145&amp;amp;hash=item41e0c69f3f:g:ZIYAAOSwtJBa5RIo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hand grain mill&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is perfect for speciality grain, but would be tedious for base malt since it takes a small quantity at the time.  So what I do, when I buy 50lbs of base malt, I have my supplier crush my 50lbs base malt for me (they don't even charge me for this). Then I buy my speciality grain whole, that I crush myself when ready to brew.  I have been doing all-grain batches for 3 years now with this process.  I would never go back to malt extract (I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T13:20:33.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23269" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-16T15:37:03.950" Score="2" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made some cider, but when the day finally came to try it there was no carbonation (evidently due to a slight hole at the top of the pressure barrel). I am planning on transferring the cider into a new barrel but not sure the best way to go about this. Do I need to add more sugar and allow time for secondary fermentation, or can I just inject CO2 and start drinking?.&#xA;Any advice greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16531" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T06:00:49.937" Title="No carbonation in pressure barrel" Tags="|cider|co2|pressure|barrel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23292" CreationDate="2018-08-16T16:26:31.020" Score="6" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently made a batch of pale ale malt and willamette SmaSh,&#xA;I used a BIAB setup and &quot;no chill&quot;-ed it in a cube over night.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I'm overall pleased with the final prodect, however it has a distinct aftertaste I can only describe as &quot;dusty&quot;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It should be noted that I could not squeeze the air completelty out of my cube,&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I left the beer in primery for about a week after fermantation was done(I wasn't sure), fermentaition temprature wast completely stable and propebly neared 30C at times,&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Also the beer has developed a &quot;chill haze&quot;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;While all of those are problems I intend to fix in my next batch I'm wondering if there is a direct cuse for this specific aftertaste that I should target first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOME BREW RECIPE:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Title: Smash&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brew Method: BIAB&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Style Name: American Pale Ale&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Boil Time: 60 min&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Batch Size: 11 liters (fermentor volume)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Boil Size: 15 liters&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Boil Gravity: 1.036&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Efficiency: 50% (brew house)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;No Chill: 20 minute extended hop boil time&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STATS:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Original Gravity: 1.054&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Final Gravity: 1.020&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;ABV (standard): 4.93%&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;IBU (tinseth): 31.99&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;SRM (morey): 4.96&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FERMENTABLES:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3.3 kg - German - Pale Ale (100%)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOPS:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;15 g - Willamette, Type: Pellet, AA: 4.5, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 18.66&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;15 g - Willamette, Type: Leaf/Whole, AA: 4.5, Use: Boil for 15 min, IBU: 13.33&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MASH GUIDELINES:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1) Infusion, Temp: 72 C, Time: 60 min, Amount: 14 L&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YEAST:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Danstar - Nottingham Ale Yeast&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Starter: No&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Form: Dry&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Attenuation (avg): 77%&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Flocculation: High&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Optimum Temp: 13.89 - 21.11 C&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Fermentation Temp: 21 C&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Pitch Rate: 0.35 (M cells / ml / deg P)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PRIMING:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Method: Corn sugar&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Amount: 60g&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;CO2 Level: 2.2 Volumes&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generated by Brewer's Friend - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Date: 2018-08-16 16:22 UTC &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Recipe Last Updated: 2018-07-19 18:08 UTC &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastActivityDate="2018-08-19T20:46:55.243" Title="A &quot;Dusty&quot; aftertaste in my beer" Tags="|off-flavor|aftertaste|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23270" CreationDate="2018-08-16T17:45:46.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only defect flavor I could relate to &quot;Dusty&quot; would be from oxidation. Most recognize it more as a wet cardboard flavor but I too have experienced it as a something more similar to opening an old dusty book if you were to translate a smell to a taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T17:45:46.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23282" CreationDate="2018-08-16T23:42:50.250" Score="2" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that Mangrove Jack's Cider kits are quick for a summer drink and satisfies the family and friends with gluten issues. I just fermented another batch and don't have a keg available right now (yes, I know buy another) So, I racked it into a 6 gallon carboy, which got me wondering will aging it a bit will do anything beneficial as far a taste and quality? If so, how long?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-08-19T13:43:10.580" Title="Mangrove Jack Cider benefit from aging?" Tags="|cider|aging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-17T00:23:12.617" Score="2" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a Czech Pilsner using S-23 Yeast and had very good results fermenting in a small refrigerator. Since, I don't have that refrigerator any longer, is there a substitute yeast that doesn't require as low a temperature as S-23 while giving similar results?  A yeast in the low 64F/17C would be ideal. I believe a substitute yeast would be a compromise, but I'm looking for options, as I really like this style.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T15:37:27.550" Title="Czech Pilsner - S-23 Yeast Alternatives Temperature Concerns" Tags="|yeast|pilsner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23273" CreationDate="2018-08-17T15:37:27.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lager yeasts generally need lower temperatures. They will also ferment at higher temperatures (they don't die), but the resulting beer may have serious off-flavors. I doubt that you'll get terrible off-flavors at 17C already, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, where you only have to cover ~10C, I'd look into alternative methods of temperature control, for example, moving the fermenter to a basement (if you have one), putting the fermenter in a tub of cold water, or putting wet towels on / around the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.startpage.com/do/dsearch?query=cooling%20a%20fermenter&amp;amp;cat=web&amp;amp;pl=opensearch&amp;amp;language=english&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quick web search&lt;/a&gt; will come up with other ideas for cooling, including some hardware that isn't as expensive as a fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T15:37:27.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-17T16:01:00.103" Score="3" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going back I used to use the very handy site Union Hops to compare different hops, see alpha content, hop oils, tasting notes etc.. After being bought out by Yakima Chief I had been using their site YCH Hops to compare hops. Now that has disappeared and just redirects to Yakima Chief's main website which contains no such useful information. There is a countdown to 44 days away to a shop opening but nothing yet on the hops themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there another hop comparison tool out there?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to categorise hops by bittering/aroma/dual purpose, by different tasting notes (e.g. Citrus, Earthy, Floral etc), alpha acid content and all the usual hop characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of painstakingly going through the web and compiling this data from multiple sources into my own spreadsheet I am hoping there is an online resource somewhere I can use that I just haven't found yet. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T19:30:33.727" Title="Hops comparison resource" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23276" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-17T16:54:11.763" Score="2" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a noob brewer and being distracted added boiling water to my yeast. I added cold water immediately however I'm afraid I may have committed yeastocide.&#xA;The only place I could think of around me with yeast was Wilko however they had ran out of ale/beer yeast and only had Gervin Universal Wine Yeast and GV13 cider yeast. I have ordered ale yeast online, however I'm afraid it will not arrive until at least tomorrow and I made my wort yesterday. Question:&#xA; 1. should I wait for the ale yeast (would my wort go off)?&#xA; 2. should I use the wine yeast?&#xA; 3. should I use the cider yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16536" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T10:14:04.880" Title="Wine or cider yeast for ale" Tags="|yeast|beer|cider|wine|ale|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23276" CreationDate="2018-08-17T17:39:22.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I'd wait for the ale yeast. Assuming your fermenter is well sanitised then on the one hand there's a small risk of bacterial or wild yeast infection, giving you a bad result. On the other hand you have two alternatives which will definitely give you a result other than that which you were aiming for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has the wort spent much time exposed to air? Is there much air space in your fermenter? Any way you can chill it until the yeast arrives? If it's a high IBU that might mitigate the risk even further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T17:39:22.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23276" CreationDate="2018-08-17T19:24:08.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its pretty safe to say that the yeast is dead.  If you can keep the wort sealed and cool at room temperature you should be fine waiting for the ale yeast.  However adding the wine or cider yeast may give you some interesting and probably fun flavors.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are worried about and spoilage in your wort by the time the yeast arrives you can re-steriize it in a sense.  Just put it back into the kettle and boil for about 20 minutes.  This will &quot;cleanse&quot; your wort without overly affecting your starting gravity and bitterness.  After its cooled then you can add your yeast.&#xA;It's a good practice to add your yeast after the wort is in the fermenter.  That way you can avoid this issue in the future.  Probably a mistake that will only be made once however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16537" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T19:24:08.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23275" CreationDate="2018-08-17T19:30:33.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a handy hops list on Brew Your Owns website.  It gives the option to sort hops by beer style use.  Also contains some of the useful stats that you might be looking for.  Here's a link&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/resource/hops/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/resource/hops/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16537" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T19:30:33.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23297" CreationDate="2018-08-17T19:36:10.553" Score="3" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an auto shut off for keg filling. Not the little ball and site glass thing from GW Kent, and not a $20k fully automated machine for commercial breweries. Just a simple electrical actuated valve that gets its signal from either a scale or a flow meter. None of my Google skills have resulted in finding anything. But based on the cost of the various components (budget class valve, PLC, scale or flowmeter), this should be available for well under $500. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone aware of anything like this before I make it myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16454" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T23:29:51.297" Title="Keg filling auto shut off" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23259" CreationDate="2018-08-17T19:36:36.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd rack it into a secondary for the sake of cleanliness in the final product.  Especially if you were to coldcrash it before bottling.   Cheers and best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16537" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T19:36:36.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23272" CreationDate="2018-08-17T20:59:35.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the one time I tried Mangrove Jack's, the &quot;fresh&quot; bottles all had a farm taste and smell, but the one I saved, for a few months, in the fridge, did get better with age. The flavour became smoother and I liked it. Next time I do it, I'll let everything age for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this is just my experience, and mileage may vary...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12221" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T20:59:35.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23256" CreationDate="2018-08-17T21:05:23.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pounds extract per barrel is actually quite straightforward to calculate. Here's my method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First you begin with the density of water. Water is &lt;strong&gt;~8.34 pounds per gallon&lt;/strong&gt; (depending on the temperature). Therefore a &lt;strong&gt;barrel is 258.5 pounds&lt;/strong&gt; (31 gal.).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You will need both °Plato and SG for the calculation, and it is sufficient to use the old rule of thumb &lt;strong&gt;1°P = 1.004 SG&lt;/strong&gt; (eg. 10°P = 1.040 SG, or 13°P = 1.052 SG, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since SG is just the density &lt;em&gt;relative&lt;/em&gt; to water, you already know how much a barrel of wort (or beer or anything) will weight at any given SG. You just multiply the weight of a barrel (or any volume) of &lt;em&gt;water&lt;/em&gt; by the SG (e.g. one barrel of wort at 12°P will weigh: 258.5 lb. x 1.048 SG = &lt;strong&gt;270.9 lb.&lt;/strong&gt;, using the numbers mentioned above).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally, pounds extract per barrel is as simple as multiplying the weight of a barrel of wort at your gravity (270.9 lb. at 1.048 SG) by &lt;strong&gt;°P expressed as a percentage&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. instead of multiplying by 12, you multiply by 0.12, which is the same as 12%). So, 270.9 lb. x 0.12 = &lt;strong&gt;32.5 lb. extract per barrel&lt;/strong&gt; (close enough if you ask me).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;- Remember that, while you're using both Plato and SG for different parts of the calculation, they must equal one another.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;-The Plato scale simply expresses the level of extract (or dissolved solids) in a solution as a percentage of the total weight of the solution. This is why this method works&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;-Why this isn't &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same as the tables? 1) For some reason the ASBC uses the weight of water at 32°F for their calculation; 2) The conversion from SG to plato is not exact (as mentioned in the other answer)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2018-08-17T21:41:54.903" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T21:41:54.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23276" CreationDate="2018-08-18T10:14:04.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bite the bullet and throw in some wine yeast in there. It has started fermenting. My next question is, as wine yeast does not break down maltotriose, would adding ale yeast continue the fermentation or would the wine yeast compete and kill the ale yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16536" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T10:14:04.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-18T10:58:24.640" Score="1" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making some kiwi wine (exciting!). When transferring from primary to secondary getting the fruit pulp was a bit of a mess and I inevitably stirred all the lees into the wine. Now, after only 1 day in the secondary there is lots of sediment in the carboy (more than 1cm). Should I worry about it at all? Rack it again of the gunk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16398" LastActivityDate="2018-08-21T00:54:44.200" Title="I accidentally stirred all the lees into my wine during first racking. Now (1 day later) secondary has lots (+1cm) of sediment. Should I rack again?" Tags="|wine|racking|lees|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23286" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-18T11:30:20.777" Score="4" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;In reading up on the subject online I found there exist various ways of making sweet wine. However, each source seems to claims different dangers / disadvantages of doing things the 'wrong way'. I thought that maybe the community of StackExchange could consolidate this information and provide some clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I am aware of three different ways of ending up with sweet wine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;backsweeten -&gt; seems to be the most commonly recommended technique, but with lots of warnings over continued fermentation, popping corks etc. A lot of places on the internet seem to claim there is really no way to stabilise yeast for good and that one can't count on the fermentation not restarting once sugar is added. I'm kinda confused on who to believe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stop fermentation while some sugars are still left in the wine -&gt; same problems as above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make a massively sweet must and force the yeast to stop fermenting because of reaching its alcohol tolerance level -&gt; the disadvantages I am aware of are: (a) little control over final alcohol level, (b) stressed yeast towards the end of fermentation (not sure how bad that one is really), (c) possible continued fermentation (unclear whether that one is an actual danger or not)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a non-fermentable sugar like lactose - I imagine it would introduce weird flavours, especially that being much less sweet than sucrose you need to put quite a lot of it in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other information does StackExchange's collective experience of making sweet wine yield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16398" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T01:07:11.177" Title="What are the advantages and disadvantages of various ways of going for a sweet wine?" Tags="|wine|sweetness|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23286" CreationDate="2018-08-18T13:53:22.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The methods you mention to have sweet wine can all lead to disaster after you put the wine in the bottle. Professional wineries only use a sterile filter to filter out the remaining yeast. It is the only proven method to leave you with a sweet wine at least on a large scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second way is to &lt;a href=&quot;http://winemakersacademy.com/potassium-sorbate-wine-making/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;use potassium sorbate&lt;/a&gt; to kill off the remaining yeast. It doesn't do anything for bacteria and can leave you with a problem, but is much more effective than the methods you mention. It can alter the flavor of the wine which is why it's not used much in commercial wineries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-08-18T14:16:03.043" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T14:16:03.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23285" CreationDate="2018-08-18T14:21:44.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry. This is why we do multiple rackings when we make wine. You'll have to do it again in a couple of months. Just keep your sulfite levels up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T14:21:44.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23165" CreationDate="2018-08-19T13:38:00.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Some info about Cold Crashing.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold crashing will definitely help that problem of cloudiness and yeast sediments on the bottom. I recommend 10 days at as close to 0 celsius as you can. e.g. 1 degree celsius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold crashing will make most of the yeast &lt;em&gt;flocculate&lt;/em&gt; (clump together and fall to the bottom.) and they will hibernate in the cold. However, cold crashing will not completely remove the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;There are several methods to remove or kill the yeast.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Pasteurization&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Heat up the liquid to 80 degree's celcius for 15 minutes, and cool&#xA;  down. This will kill all the yeast and they all will eventually&#xA;  flocculate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Filter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Like normal lager beer you get in the store, you could filter your&#xA;  kombucha to remove any yeast or haze. See this video for a how-to.&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOclJsjZnyY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOclJsjZnyY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Fining Agents&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can also use fining agents to clear your kombucha. This is generally used for wine making, (especially isinglass, bentonite, gelatin, pectolyase, kieselsol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Substances such as finings include egg whites, blood, milk, isinglass,&#xA;  and Irish moss. These are still used by some producers, but more&#xA;  modern substances have also been introduced and are more widely used,&#xA;  including bentonite, gelatin, casein, carrageenan, alginate,&#xA;  diatomaceous earth, pectinase, pectolyase, PVPP, kieselsol (colloidal&#xA;  silica), copper sulfate, dried albumen, hydrated yeast, and activated&#xA;  carbon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, clearing your kombucha to become like a clear white wine, kind of defeats the purpose of kombucha. A part of the definition of kombucha is to have yeast cells in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Back to Cold Crashing your Kombucha&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to prevent yeast sediments in the glass.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend Cold Crashing the kombucha for &lt;strong&gt;minimum&lt;/strong&gt; 3 days before bottling it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tap the kombucha in bottles, or in a barrel, and let it stay cold at least 1 day before you serve it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be careful when pouring the kombucha in your glass. A good pouring-technique will prevent you from having sediments in your&#xA;  glass.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16516" LastActivityDate="2018-08-19T13:38:00.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23272" CreationDate="2018-08-19T13:43:10.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All ciders should go through conditioning (aging) for the fruit aroma and perceived sweetness to really come through. (Also if your cider is strong in Alcohol, the aging will reduce the &quot;hot&quot; alcohol feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I recommend 1 year in secondary, or in bottles/barrel.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend conditioning the cider &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; in plastic, but in glass bottles, or glass fermenters. Plastic &quot;breathes&quot; and may oxygenate your cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16516" LastActivityDate="2018-08-19T13:43:10.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23248" CreationDate="2018-08-19T20:15:31.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 - It will leave extra salt in your beer and raise the pH, which won't make anyone sick at reasonable levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - Lower the pH of the solution, like you did with vinegar, so that carbonate doesn't precipitate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 - Metabisulfate would leave sulfur in solution too, which would impact the flavor more than carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastActivityDate="2018-08-19T20:15:31.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23270" CreationDate="2018-08-19T20:46:55.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I chased a similar off flavor for years before I finally concluded it was coming from the US-05 yeast I was using. I'm not sure everyone can taste it, but it was very offensive to me. Dusty was the exact word I used to describe it. It was strongest in the finish of the first sip, and it grew weaker as I continued to drink. It wasn't every batch I brewed with US-05, maybe one out of every four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a window where I used WLP090 instead, and I never got the off flavor then. I switched to Mangrove Jack's M36 about a year ago and haven't had the off flavor since. I tried everything I could think of, but it only went away when I switched to a different yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I see you used Nottingham. I have never used that strain so I can't say from personal experience that it would be the culprit here. I have also never heard of anyone else having this problem with US-05. So all I have is one anecdote to offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastActivityDate="2018-08-19T20:46:55.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19092" CreationDate="2018-08-20T12:41:26.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The company that I work for offers a couple of different options for securing pipe/tubing to walls and ceilings.  You can check out our &lt;a href=&quot;https://sanitaryfittings.us/product-category/fittings/hangers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tube hanger options here&lt;/a&gt;.  Both of the options we offer can be customized to include a 3/8&quot; coupler on top.  This would allow you to secure a wall/ceiling flange to your mounting point.  From there you would thread a 3/8&quot; rod into your tube/pipe hangers which would hold up your equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wall mounted support systems are not as secure as ceiling mount depending upon the distance these items are placed from the wall.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let us know if you have any questions on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John&#xA;Sanitary Fittings, LLC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16542" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T12:41:26.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21967" CreationDate="2018-08-20T12:52:41.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tri-Clamp fittings are the only types of fittings which are approved by 3A organization.  3-A SSI is an independent, not-for-profit corporation dedicated to advancing hygienic equipment design for the food, beverage, and pharmaceutical industries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason these fittings are approved is two-fold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Their design minimizes/eliminates the areas where harmful bacteria can harbor and grow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are easy to disassemble and clean allowing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to 3A certification, it's on a per manufacturer basis.  You may be able to purchase tri-clamp fittings from a variety of sources, however, companies that are producing 3A certified products will typically stamp the 3A logo directly on the fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information about 3A Organization, you can check out their website here:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3-a.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.3-a.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16542" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T12:52:41.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-20T14:17:21.860" Score="5" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard yeast can mutate when you re-use yeast, and when it goes through many yeast-generations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How long does it take for the yeast to mutate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Which factors have an impact on the characteristics of the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Which characteristics will this mutated yeast have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the yeast stable and healthy after being mutated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16516" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T23:26:44.053" Title="How long does it take for yeast to mutate into having other characteristics?" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23269" CreationDate="2018-08-20T14:39:19.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can add more sugar for carbonation, or inject CO2 and start drinking.&#xA;However, for cider I would recommend leaving it in secondary for 1 year, (conditioning). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have time for that, try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For sugar priming:&lt;/strong&gt; I would use this calculator &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/pages/priming-sugar-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.northernbrewer.com/pages/priming-sugar-calculator&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Ciders are typically quite high in carbonation, so when choosing style, you can choose around 3-4 vol in this calculator. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also since you're sugar priming a keg, which probably has less headspace than bottles, then you should use &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; sugar than this calculator says. Maybe even half. It's volume math. The more headspace you have in your container, the more sugar you need. Let it stay for minimum 1 week in the closed container, preferably 2 weeks, and let it stay cold 3 days before you drink it, is recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CO2 is the fastest alternative&lt;/strong&gt;, but I don't know too much about it. You can read this website for a tutorial: &lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.kegerator.com/force-carbonating-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://learn.kegerator.com/force-carbonating-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16516" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T14:39:19.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23280" CreationDate="2018-08-20T14:48:35.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commercial fillers with auto shut off work on one of two principals. Over flow or gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over flow systems use an overflow tank that also connects to the main source tank. This tank then uses a float sensor for the shut off. The overflow is then used in the next fill. These are very expensive and are a whole new system that requires sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gravity fillers use a prefill tank either using a float shut off or a load cell to measure the weight. The load cell versions are not that practical for brewing because different beers have different liquid gravity and can leave a keg short or over filled. The float versions are more practical for brewing and cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I don't think you will find any reliable plug and forget system for anywhere near $500.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most breweries short of an automated kegging line have manned filling stations and simply rely on a clear exit line for manual shut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T14:48:35.970" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23295" CreationDate="2018-08-20T16:36:42.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no set time and no set form that the mutation will take.  But in general, mutations take a long time to happen.  Years is the time line often cited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T16:36:42.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23295" CreationDate="2018-08-20T17:08:10.387" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast follow the laws of natural selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a cell is budding the new mass may have some minor defects / mutations. If those changes give the yeast an advantage to survive it will get passed on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You can have noted changes in just a few generations.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've observed in my own washing methods strains becoming less flocculant just because my washing method discards the first yeast cells to drop out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also many breweries refresh yeast after a few generations or brews. To put it simply: Not that it's unhealthy yeast but rather they've grown a generations of spoiled brats that have gotten lazy and simply just don't make good beer anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T17:08:10.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23280" CreationDate="2018-08-20T23:29:51.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;NB - this is not an autoshutoff as such, but may help with your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could daisy chain all your kegs so that when keg 1 fills up, it automatically starts filling keg 2 and so on. I have a pressurisable fermenter, and I've been doing closed loop transfers, which have worked really well for me. You can transfer carbonated beer nicely with this method too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the fermenter is elevated compared to the kegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all kegs are sanitised and purged, connect gas port on fermenter to gas port on the last keg to be filled, then liquid-gas,  liquid-gas up the line until you reach the first keg. This equalises the pressure in all the kegs with the fermenter. Disconnect the gas connection to the fermenter, and hook up the liquid out of the fermenter to the liquid in of keg 1. Nothing should happen. Slowly vent some gas from the final keg. Once the liquid has started flowing, reconnect the gas ports on the final keg and the fermenter. A siphon has been established, and you can walk away and come back later. 1 of two things will happen - all the beer will fit in the kegs and you'll have no overflow, or not all of the beer will fit in the kegs, and beer will fill the gas out hose from the final keg to the level remaining in the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T23:29:51.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23285" CreationDate="2018-08-21T00:54:44.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time will give you clear wine, multiple rackings may be required.  However, if you are anxious for a clear product (not necessarily sufficiently aged), you may wish to investigate a clearing agent.  I have tried many over the years, but Super-Kleer, a two stage clearing agent, has rendered anything I've used it on perfectly crystal clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-08-21T00:54:44.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23256" CreationDate="2018-08-21T02:52:52.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plato is just percentage by weight of extract in a solution, so you don't need a table. Any volume of wort at 12 plato is 12% extract by weight. So if you have 1 litre of it, 120g of it is extract. That's all you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm of the firm opinion that plato is the way to go, precisely because of this simplicity. The unit accounts for volume automatically, and being fully metric and decimal, is a breeze to use. No PPG, or sucrose contribution of 46ppg or any of that nonsense, just multiplying percentages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10L @ 12P = 10 x 12% = 1.2kg extract&#xA;conversely&#xA;9kg extract in 100L water = 9/(9+100) = .0825 = 8.25P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-08-21T02:52:52.533" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23305" CreationDate="2018-08-21T03:22:08.320" Score="5" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone please give me a hand calculating Mash Efficiency manually? &#xA;I use mostly Gladfield malt along with some cara 'x's' and BeerSmith 3 but would like to calculate manually so I have a grasp of what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Base recipe in Kilograms for 25 Litres wort:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;American Ale malt (Gladfield)   5.5, &#xA;CARAMALT    0.5&#xA;CRYSTAL LIGHT   0.3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SG's I get from Beersmith are 1.037, 1.035 and 1.035 respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how to convert this to potential points for Kilograms and Litres before working out the overall mash efficiency. I think the first part of the calculation is just to multiply these together, which gives: 203.5 (5.5x37 etc.), 17.5 and 10.5. From here, I'm not sure what conversion Beersmith has used to gain their efficiency estimate. Can anyone assist? Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16415" LastActivityDate="2018-08-21T04:14:04.337" Title="Calculating Efficiency manually using metric system" Tags="|efficiency|conversion|beersmith|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23304" CreationDate="2018-08-21T03:52:48.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start with, I'd figure out the yield as a percentage. I find this number way more useful, especially as maltsters generally provide a yield as a percentage on their analysis sheets. To do this, divide the ppg of the grain by 46 (sucrose ppg). That gives you the percentage of the weight of the grain that will become extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. 1.037 --&gt; 37/46 = 80.4% or 0.804&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then multiply that by the weight of the grain to find out how much of the grain should become extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. 5.5kg x .804 = 4.42kg extract&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do that for each grain, then add all the extract quantities together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;((37/46)x5.5)+((35/46)x0.5)+((35/46)x0.3) = total extract&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Divide the total extract by the total wort weight (volume is close enough). That gives you your maximum gravity in Plato. In this case it's about 20 plato (20% extract by weight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now all you do is divide your actual gravity in plato by that number. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g.&#xA;actual gravity 16 plato&#xA;16/20=80% efficiency&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may seem a bit foreign coming from a classic homebrew background, but after a little playing around, you will probably find that using plato makes a lot more sense if you want to understand the maths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps, feel free to ask for clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastEditorUserId="16544" LastEditDate="2018-08-21T04:14:04.337" LastActivityDate="2018-08-21T04:14:04.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23269" CreationDate="2018-08-21T05:56:08.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no cider guy, so can't comment on time in secondary etc., but  yes, you can do either of those things. Rouse is spot on with his priming suggestion. As for force carbing, you can shake the keg while injecting high pressure CO2, which will get you there fast but is unpredictable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2016/05/12/sparkle-fizz-methods-for-carbonation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2016/05/12/sparkle-fizz-methods-for-carbonation/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This link outlines better methods. Burst carbonating is faster, and with a little practice can be very reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, to clarify, when you say barrel, what exactly do you mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-08-21T05:56:08.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23220" CreationDate="2018-08-22T05:25:38.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would expand a little on chthon's list, personally. Mine would look like this (these terms are in common usage in Australia, maybe less so elsewhere):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash hopping: adding hop in the mash &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First wort: adding hop in the&#xA;boiling kettle and then lautering the wort in the kettle &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Early or bittering: Adding hops to the boil in the first 10-20 minutes of the&#xA;boil &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Middle or flavour: the same as above, but in the middle section&#xA;of the boil late or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aroma: the same as above, but in the last 5&#xA;minutes or so &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flameout, hopstand or whirlpool: adding hops after the&#xA;boil has finished. Can happen in the presence or absence of a&#xA;whirlpool, at anywhere between about 30 degrees and boiling point.&#xA;This does a similar job to dry hopping, but due to higher&#xA;termperatures, extracts more compounds &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry hop:adding hops to fermented beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash hopping can be handy if you're dealing with a large volume of flower hops that you might otherwise first wort with. They would take up a lot of space, and soak up a lot of wort in  the kettle, and be that extra bit harder to clean out. Sticking them in the mash is quite convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First wort is also great, getting you arguably higher utilisation and a smoother bitterness. I only use first wort for bittering now, I don't do any early bittering additions in the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hop stands around 60 celsius are marvelous for very hop forward beers, you can really load the character up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T05:25:38.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1936" CreationDate="2018-08-22T09:16:02.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a professional beer brewing equipment manufacturer,we would like to make a detailed clarification for the device &quot;wort grant&quot; here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wort grant is generally being installed between the lauter tun and brew kettle. Its position is generally lower than the wort level in the tank, so during lautering, the wort could flow into the wort grant automatically by gravity. The wort can then be pumped back into the lauter tun or into the brew kettle. Just meaning that the pump does not need to work on the lauter tun directly during lautering, it could better avoid compacting grain bed which may cause the lauter tun and false bottom out of shape. Now it has been standard in mostly of the brewery systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16547" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-08-22T09:41:22.143" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T09:41:22.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="565" CreationDate="2018-08-22T15:11:32.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some make it so hard... It's Root Beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Tbls Zanterains Root Beer extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Tbls Vanilla Extract (Real)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Tps Wintergreen Extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/2 Tps Clove&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 quarts 110 degree water (save 16 oz out for activating yeast)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 cups of sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix these together, let sit 10 minutes, whisk briskly till sugar is dissolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.25 grams Red Star Champagne Yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;16 oz water saved out (110 degrees)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 heaping Tbls sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix water and sugar in jar and shake, shake, shake.&#xA;Add yeast but dont stir.&#xA;When you see bubbles (activated) shake. Add to root beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pour into Grolsch Bottles and seal, burp every day for 7 days)&#xA;Refrigerate and drink. Burp bottles everyday until drank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plenty of sweetness left, 3-4 % alcohol.&#xA;Nice little buzz with your soda. If ya want more or just have to get hammered... add neutral spirits. I like my little buzz in the afternoon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16548" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2018-08-23T21:49:16.850" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T21:49:16.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2018-08-22T19:21:37.057" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry to revive an old thread but my experience of 15 years is this - controls of the same kit, same temperature, same time, same everything except sucrose in one and dextrose in the other. Result - no distinguishable difference when drinking one of each, same ABV, only difference was that sucrose took an extra day to finish primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line - drink and enjoy, regardless of the type of sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16549" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T19:21:37.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23286" CreationDate="2018-08-22T20:00:03.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using non fermentable sugar seems the safest way to backsweeten. There is lactose, but other better products as well, like stevia (gives a little mint flavour), Xolitol, Sucralose...  you would need to pick the one that fits the best with your wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reaching the alcohol tolerance of yeast is not precise enough, you would need to bring the alcohol level way higher to be sure it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a filter to remove yeast and adding potassium sorbate is another way that I haven't tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T20:00:03.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23286" CreationDate="2018-08-23T01:07:11.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the effort to keep my wine as natural as possible, I prefer to &quot;back-sweeten&quot; my wines as opposed to using chemicals, but there's a sub-section of brewers who trust and use them; to each his own. All Must, must be free of wild yeasts so each batch gets a dose of Potassium Metabisulphite (Campden tablets) and sits for, at least, 24 hours before any yeast is pitched to kill any foreign yeast. So the portion of the Must you remove to use for sweetening is already free of all yeasts. Rack the finished wine into a secondary fermenter, getting it off all the dregs on the bottom which is where the &quot;dead&quot; yeast is, (by the way, using bentonite, which is a clay that the dregs fall on and stick to, helping in clearing the wine is very effective) then add the back-sweetener. The chances of any yeast coming back are minimal. I've never had a problem with exploding projectiles. The secret to back-sweetening is the proportions. Adding 1 gallon of back-sweetener to 4 gallons of wine is a pretty good starting point, then you can tweak the ratios by trial and error&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13288" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T01:07:11.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23318" CreationDate="2018-08-23T19:57:58.813" Score="6" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I intend to make a melomel based on a Polish &lt;em&gt;trójniak&lt;/em&gt; with (sour) cherries. As we're in season, I will probably buy fresh fruit at my local grocery store or market. &lt;strong&gt;What I wonder about is how to best sanitise the cherries without stripping them of their flavour.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about giving them a quick Starsan bath and/or spraying them with 70% ethanol before chopping and freezing. &lt;strong&gt;Is this a good idea?&lt;/strong&gt; I am aware that freezing alone will kill off some, but not all of the bacteria and wild yeast that can be found on fresh fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's relevant, &lt;em&gt;trójniak&lt;/em&gt; is one part honey and two parts water (by volume), resulting in an OG ~35°P (1.154). My mead yeast strain has 21% alcohol tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14050" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T17:56:43.810" Title="How to sanitise cherries?" Tags="|sanitation|mead|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23243" CreationDate="2018-08-23T22:02:48.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done it, so it's definitely possible. You just have to bear some caveats in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How many batches have been fermented with the yeast? Remember that some strains tend to mutate faster than others. I've heard that you can ferment 5-8+ batches with consecutive generations of the same yeast without any problems, but e.g. Hefeweizen yeast will not be viable for that many.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What's the ABV of the beer you're culturing the yeast from? As you probably now, stronger beers will contain yeast that's either dead or in poor condition. It's probably not worth it to culture yeast from a barley wine. Darker and hoppier beers will further deteriorate the yeast too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What yeast was used for refermentation? There are strains specifically for bottle conditioning that some brewers use. Commercial breweries very often add a completely different strain for refermentation, sometimes even a lager yeast (despite the beer being an ale). Make sure it's the same strain that was used for fermentation, otherwise you can end up with something different that what you expected.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How difficult is it to obtain the yeast you're expecting to get? If it's not a rare/expensive strain, you might want to consider either buying a fresh packet or perhaps asking your local homebrewers if they don't happen to have some extra yeast cake in their fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You need some equipment and time. A bottle will have relatively few viable yeast cells, not nearly as many as a fresh packet of liquid yeast. Therefore, ideally you should have a plate stirrer, a small flask (like 250ml), a large one (2l should be fine) and a lot of patience. The culturing takes no less than a week. You should also start with a low gravity beer, as the number of cultured cells will still probably be well under what you'd normally want to pitch. After your low gravity beer's primary is done, collect the yeast cake and use that to make your desired batch of awesomeness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14050" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T22:02:48.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23317" CreationDate="2018-08-24T13:39:52.563" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew hedgerow wines, but am unable to get reliable measurements from a hydrometer. Given that measuring ABV requires me to take one of the hydrometer measurements right at the point of pitching the yeast, there is often a lot of fruit/berry debris floating in the mixture at this time. The density of all this tends to 'push' the hydrometer up or down in the glass; hence my readings aren't particularly reliable. In fact, I can often manually push the hydrometer within a range of about 0.15 and it will just stay put wherever it is left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, a simple solution is to just strain out the fruit when pouring it into the hydrometer glass. But (a) is this likely to affect the true reading, and (b) this is an extra step in a process that I am already dubious about the need to perform, given the inaccuracies involved. Is there perhaps a much simpler method used by others to get accurate ABV measurements that I'm just not aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16553" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T18:06:22.513" Title="Fruit making hydrometer readings unreliable" Tags="|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23316" CreationDate="2018-08-24T14:15:05.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hydrometer will be effected by anything that will suspend in and displace a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet with not changing your process (straining) would be to &lt;strong&gt;take your OG readings with a refractometer&lt;/strong&gt;. You would only need a single drop of clear solution then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T14:15:05.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23313" CreationDate="2018-08-24T17:56:43.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No point in using StarSan to sterilise fruit of any description. It will not be very effective as it can only affect the surface and contains phosphoric acid and a surfactant (basically a &quot;detergent&quot; wetting agent). If one &lt;em&gt;had&lt;/em&gt; to wash the fruit then metabisulphite (Campden tablets) would be a good alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use a microwave on the cherries in a clip top plastic food container. It is only necessary to pasteurise the cherries which can be done at temperatures around 70C for about a minute or so. If you have a &lt;em&gt;sous vide&lt;/em&gt; then the cherries can be sealed in a bag and held at 70C for (say) 5 minutes. YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To capture all the volatile flavours and olefactants one could heat the cherries in (some of) the water to be used. One could chop and de-stone the cherries and then add in one go to some water at (say) 80C. Keep a lid or other cover on the vessel and let it cool (or add more cold water) until at a suitable temperature to add the yeast. A &lt;em&gt;sous vide&lt;/em&gt; could do the same thing in much the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively wait until the alcohol level of the brew is high enough that it will naturally inhibit bacteria. Adding cherries then (&quot;in seconday&quot;) would be a viable alternative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freezing fruit is not an effective method of sterilising it - although it tends to be fatal to any bugs inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T17:56:43.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23316" CreationDate="2018-08-24T18:06:22.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were possible (size, etc) then one could take the reading directly in the fermentation vessel rather than in a test jar. Then the floating fruit would not make such a difference to the SG reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise straining the fruit from the juice is a viable option to get an initial  SG reading with a test jar and hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a refractometer is a very neat idea as long as one has a correctly calibrated refractomer for the type of sugar (or specific sugar mixes) that would be found in the proposed brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T18:06:22.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-25T04:47:07.030" Score="5" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my friends told me that if you brew a lambic with lambic yeast (e.g. the WLP one) you shouldn't be re-using that carboy for anything else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought the whole purpose of cleaning was no yeast stays behind? Can anyone confirm this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T12:05:43.027" Title="Brewing using Lambic yeast: can't reuse the vessel for something else?" Tags="|cleaning|lambics|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23322" CreationDate="2018-08-25T07:12:30.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is a glass carboy, it can be cleaned so nothing stays behind. If the carboy is made from plastic, you shouldn't use it for clean beer after a funky one. Plastic easy scratches and in the scratches the yeast and mostly bacteria will survive. To make a lambic you use a mixed fermentation, with yeast and bacteria. Not harmful bacteria, but Lactobacillus and maybe Pediococcus, that produce the funky flavours we love so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is also highly scratch resistant plastics used for fermenters, i.E. The Catalyst. I have no idea if it is safe to reuse after a mixed fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-08-25T07:12:30.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2018-08-25T16:34:33.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the primary fermentation is done, the wort is already saturated with CO2, either use hop bag or directly drop the pallet will result free floating, by the time, yes the pellet will sink first but that will take longer (my experience &gt; a week, causing a bit grassy beer), while the hop bags will stay floating with full of CO2 trapped inside, weight the bag down may have some better surface contact but not much, we think maceration will happen automatically, but in CO2 saturated hop aroma does not flow out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bough a lager, chilled it, then pouring it into a glass, dropped a seal bag with three hops in the bag, pushed the bag down by spoon many times, tried to get the trapped CO2 out, after for a while, I finished the beer, there was a little arome. Then now on my empty glass with hop bag left, pour a water into the glass, stir it two three times and I can smell full aroma and when drink the water, it tastes great except it is grassy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16556" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-08-27T12:49:55.147" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T12:49:55.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23327" CreationDate="2018-08-26T12:58:24.150" Score="4" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to brew an American Pale Ale or Pale Ale. I'm only considering a single hop on this time around. Any recommendation out of these options listed below? It’s what I have left. I'd love to go a little experimental. But I know some can lack a bit of complexity for single hop ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saaz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Huell Melon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polaris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Columbus/Tomahawk &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Azacca &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Centennial&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hallertau Blanc &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jester&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-08-28T12:46:39.997" LastActivityDate="2018-09-02T15:28:31.133" Title="Any hop recommendations for a single hop PA out of these options" Tags="|hops|ale|pale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23325" CreationDate="2018-08-26T23:05:21.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an American Pale Ale, I'd stick with American hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saaz is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; classic Czech Pilsner hop, Hallertau is a German noble hop. If you use those, you may end up with something between a Pale Ale and a Czech or German Pilsner respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just had a Azacca SMASH and that was great, so my personal favorite would be an Azacca pale ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2018-08-27T18:24:12.680" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T18:24:12.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-27T14:33:19.443" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hops are in a raised bed that gets lots of sun. This summer has been very rainy, and I wonder if this may have stunted the buds. Also the bed has just been covered with stew and sand for the winter and really no other maintenance. Do I need to thin the rhizomes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16561" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-10-25T21:38:05.770" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T21:38:05.770" Title="why did we get lots of vines but way less harvest this year?" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23325" CreationDate="2018-08-28T12:07:38.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to choose only one hop for an APA, it would be Centennial, similar to other hops specifically used for an APA, a little less “grapefruit” notes then Cascade, but still fruity with some pine notes with a clean finish.  This one will work and you’ll be pleased with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T12:07:38.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-28T13:22:46.267" Score="4" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of making a beverage out of locally available starch sources. My question is, is there a possibility to convert those starchy objects to fermentable sugars? And what type of yeast should I use for fermentation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you to all who will respond to this question, it would be a great help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16565" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-08-28T15:57:27.900" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T16:08:36.457" Title="Home brewing for undergraduate study" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|yeast-starters|conversion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23330" CreationDate="2018-08-28T16:08:36.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is a possibility to convert those starches into fermentable sugar, but it will depend on the source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With malt, the process of mashing consists in keeping the grain at a temperature to activate enzymes that will perform the starch conversion.  Those enzymes are present in base malt (we call that the &quot;diastatic power&quot; of the malt).  But those enzymes may or may not exist in your &quot;source&quot;, so you will need to add some malt or enzymes to have a conversion of starches.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find Diastatic Malt Powder for sale, or buy some base malt to mix with your other &quot;source&quot; during mashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the yeast, any beer yeast will work (even wine yeast) but they each have their own characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T16:08:36.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-28T16:11:11.603" Score="4" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can I add some good quality natural apple juice which I have purchased&#xA;to the apple juice from my own trees when making cider?&#xA;If so when shoudl it be added, before or after fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16566" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T16:23:23.650" Title="Can I add commercial apple juice to the apple juice from my trees which I have pressed when making cider?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23332" CreationDate="2018-08-28T16:18:55.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can add juice from your own trees. Add it before you add the yeast otherwise it will ferment again when you add the new juice since you are adding new sugar and the yeast will consume it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T16:18:55.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23332" CreationDate="2018-08-28T16:23:23.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure that your purchased juice does not contain Sorbate or Sulfites in the ingredients, if possible, because that can cause problems with fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not possible, there is a solution: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sulfites&lt;/strong&gt; will &quot;evaporate&quot; after a few hours if left in contact with air, so let the juice breathe for a few hours before adding it to your batch; most sulfites will be gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sorbate&lt;/strong&gt; usually is used prevent the start of fermentation (it will not stop a vigourous fermentation), so if you start the fermentation of your batch, you may add juice containing Sorbate after a day of fermentation to your batch without harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your purchased juice contains sulfites/sorbates, wait to have a vigorous fermentation before adding it to your batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, you may add the juice before or during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T16:23:23.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-28T20:00:42.490" Score="2" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to try my hand at brewing Keptinis (I've read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.garshol.priv.no/blog/394.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lar's blog&lt;/a&gt;). I would like a recipe geared towards modern homebrewers and I'm most interested in the baking part and how to do that in a standard oven or grill. I think the rest I can figure out with my setup. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-17T17:20:48.873" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T17:20:48.873" Title="Has anyone brewed Keptinis beer?" Tags="|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23125" CreationDate="2018-08-29T23:42:48.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to use K-meta in my airlocks without any problems, until I had it get sucked into and ruin a batch of beer.  Now, nothing but vodka in my airlocks.  If it gets sucked in it just raises my ABV a small bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T23:42:48.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-31T11:14:47.763" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the yeast colony double every 90 mins?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If so, why wait days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-08-31T19:28:47.300" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T19:28:47.300" Title="Liquid yeast Starter Activator Smack Pack" Tags="|wyeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23245" CreationDate="2018-08-31T11:53:27.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m lucky enough to have an oven with a dehydration setting.  I routinely do herbs from the garden, which go from fresh to completely dried in a matter of hours.  If you don’t have this feature a food dehydrator is an option for you.  They are simply placed on large screened raised sheet, allowing air circulation around the herbs.  The screen sheets are usually used to cool cookies from an oven, available at any bed and bath, kitchen store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T11:53:27.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23482" CreationDate="2018-08-31T12:32:18.360" Score="4" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;At last spring I brewed a batch of belgian ale that turned to be highly over carbonated. It comes out of bottle quite merrily, but so far none of the bottles have exploded or even leaked by themself.&#xA;Now to the tricky part, I have to move out of the place where the bottles are stored and I think it would bee too nasty joke to leave bottles behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is how to safely transport over carbonated glass bottles via car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16356" LastEditorUserId="16356" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T14:19:38.347" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T14:24:49.727" Title="Transporting over carbonated glass bottles" Tags="|bottles|over-carbonation|transport|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23339" CreationDate="2018-08-31T14:59:48.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're talking about Wyeast, &lt;a href=&quot;https://wyeastlab.com/smack-pack-activator-system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;they recommend&lt;/a&gt; incubating &lt;em&gt;'3-5 hours or more'&lt;/em&gt; after smacking. You certainly can wait days, and in fact may have to for older or poorly stored yeast packs, but it generally shouldn't be necessary. Is there somewhere you've read that recommends incubating for days, or is it just more a general question?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Does the yeast colony double every 90 mins?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under ideal growth conditions and during the exponential growth phase, colony doublings &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; occur this quickly. However, when activating a smack-pack-type pitch (or anytime stored yeast is exposed to nutrient, such as with a starter or direct pitching), these conditions aren't met, so you can't assume that, in an hour and a half, you'll have twice the yeast you started with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smack-pack system is really meant more as a way to reduce the lag time (the initial phase after pitching where stored/unactivated yeast is 'waking up' and acclimating to its new, nutrient-rich environment and no real sign of fermentation is visible), which may last anywhere from less than an hour to a day or more. There is the added potential benefit of a &lt;em&gt;modest&lt;/em&gt; increase in cell count but this is probably minimal (when directly pitching yeast [i.e. just slurry, no starter or activator] it is unusual to see an increase in cell number before 8-12 hours into fermentation, though you will see budding cells). Also, the nutrient pouch in the smack-packs is fairly small, so any increase in cell number may be limited by insufficient fermentable sugars, no matter how long you let it sit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T14:59:48.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23245" CreationDate="2018-08-31T18:24:35.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been meaning to build an appropriate &lt;strong&gt;oast&lt;/strong&gt; (or layered hop drying screen) to dry my hops but I've had a lot of success with my makeshift one made of milk crates. In a nutshell, you just need to get some airflow through a layer of fresh hops and some time (a few days). My setup is an empty milk crate as a base, crates consisting of a layer of hops as needed stacked on top. I also position a fan at an angle below it to induce the airflow necessary to dry the hops out in about 2-3 days:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JER1e.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JER1e.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;em&gt;Note: You can't see it in this picture, but there are empty milk crates underneath both of the crates holding the hops.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have a vacuum sealer already, but for those who don't, I've found that packing up a zip-lock bag up with the dried hops and manually sucking the air out works just as well (and cheaper than buying a vacuum setup). From there I throw the bags in the freezer until I'm ready to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, important to note. I typically plan my harvest brews according to when I pick my hops, so they're as fresh as possible when it's &quot;go-time&quot; so I'm not sure that I can comment on the shelf life of this method. I'd imagine a vacuum sealer would extend the life of the hops considerably. The method I've outlined is just what has worked for my process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;One more note on using the fresh dried hops:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When adding fresh hops to a batch, I recommend grinding the full hops in a clean coffee grinder or a food processor really get the alpha acids activated before adding them to the brew. Also, keep in mind that these hops will be considerably more powerful than any processed hops (i.e: hop pellets) so you can get a lot more power out of less. Best of luck and happy brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14427" LastEditorUserId="14427" LastEditDate="2018-08-31T18:31:09.883" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T18:31:09.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-01T08:14:50.873" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see some white molds on top of my plastic wine  fermenter bucket just in first 3 days old pear wine , my question is that if it is dangerous or not? if not then how can i get rid of those molds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16576" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T22:18:41.110" Title="white molds to top of 3 days old pear wine bucket," Tags="|fermenter|plastic|fruit-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23344" CreationDate="2018-09-03T21:22:22.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that the best way to get rid of said mould,is to pour the stuff down the drain, based on my experience. Did you use STARSAN?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T21:22:22.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23341" CreationDate="2018-09-03T21:47:50.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the beer is overcarbonated, I'd just degas it. Lift the cap of each bottle, let the CO2 escape until the foam reaches the cap, let go; repeat as many times as necessary, waiting for the foam to fall back between each degassing. It can take a couple dozen sessions over several days to reach the desirable/safe carbonation level.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the beer is not cooled and you wish to retain the high carbonation, you can chill the beer and leave in the fridge for a longer while to let the CO2 properly dissolve. A day should be quite enough. Then, place the bottles in an ice box and transport them in it. The low temperature will keep the CO2 well dissolved and thus the pressure in the bottles will be significantly lowered.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14050" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T21:47:50.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23361" CreationDate="2018-09-04T09:56:32.900" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the percentage attenuation of the yeast, directly match the fermentability of the wort, ie, If i am after a one fifth gravity beer, then that has attenuated by 80% .   so is the spirit indication and ash content taken into consideration for the final gravity result? As I see that yeasts can vary widely in there purported attenuation. from low 65% to high 80%. So, how do I match the fermentability of the wort with a particular attentive yeast strain, in order to get a one fifth gravity beer?   Is there a chart for this? And if I were to use malt that had a percentage fermentability of 64%, with a yeast with  a 70% attenuation, would I result in a one fifth gravity beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T23:12:08.743" Title="Yeast Attenuation" Tags="|yeast|attenuation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23359" CreationDate="2018-09-04T13:52:23.387" Score="0" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a tap attached directly to my corny keg (similar to this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://barleyhaven.com/corny-keg-faucet-tap-ball-lock.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://barleyhaven.com/corny-keg-faucet-tap-ball-lock.html&lt;/a&gt;). That means I have my serving pressure at 10kpa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My carbonation method is to cold crash to 2 degrees, keg and purge oxygen, then hook up CO2 at 200kpa (30psi) for 36-48 hours, then reduce to serving pressure and leave for a week or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get a nice pour with a bit of head, but the mouthfeel just isn't right - not enough bubbles - and it seems to get weaker over time. If the serving pressure is any higher I just get foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I increase the level of carbonation without increasing serving pressure? Do I just get a long beer line so I &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; increase the standing pressure on the keg and maintain a higher level of carbonation? Or just leave it for longer at the low serving pressure and temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8501" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T23:13:50.317" Title="How to fully carbonate a keg with no beer line at very low serving pressure?" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|pressure|serving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23365" CreationDate="2018-09-04T16:11:35.867" Score="3" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Iodophor as my no rise sterilizer.&#xA;Is this a safe sterilizer and because it doesn’t breakdown like other no rinse sterilizer won’t it affect the flavor profile of the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastEditorUserId="16485" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T17:31:03.330" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T03:54:01.873" Title="Does Iodophor change the flavor profile of beer?" Tags="|sanitation|brewing|sterilization|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23248" CreationDate="2018-09-04T16:46:08.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't put vinegar anywhere near my brew equipment.&#xA;Pot metabisulphite is permissible in beer making.&#xA;Starsan is the best no rinse sanitiser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T16:46:08.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23356" CreationDate="2018-09-04T16:54:12.063" Score="3" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve never used a clarifier when I brew. However a friend used one of those Mangrove Jack kit packs for his first time. I noticed it comes with a packet of beer clarifier. On inspection I noted this seems to be no more than gelatine(?). Essentially 5g (18oz) per 23L (6gal).&#xA;Does that really work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastEditorUserId="16485" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T18:57:02.273" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T00:21:30.903" Title="Gelatine as a beer finings (clarifier)?" Tags="|bottling|brewing|clarification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-09-07T16:04:21.757" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23362" CreationDate="2018-09-05T00:03:48.763" Score="3" ViewCount="537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a few all-grain brews in using the Robobrew (poor mans Grainfather) and they have actually turned out great!. One thing I haven't been able to figure out though is how to improve efficiency. People say not to worry about it, but it is frustrating having 5.5 - 7kg of grain and then still only producing a 4.5-5.5% abv beer. Also becomes an economical issue - spending more on grain than necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have had the stores mill it for me. I will look to get my own grain mill, however would like to ensure I am doing all I can without it first. I have included some examples below - all at Single step mash - 67c for 60 min, recirculate the mash using pump, mash out at 76c for 10 min, approx 20 Litres water + 10-14L fly sparge, standard 60 min boil. Please let me know if any more detail required:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;**Brew 1**&#xA;Marris Otter Pale 5kg, &#xA;Flaked Oats - 500g&#xA;OG: 1.049&#xA;Using brewers friend calculators this equates to ~68% mash efficiency&#xA;&#xA;**Brew 2**&#xA;American Ale malt (Gladfield) - 5.50 kg&#xA;CARAMALT - 500g&#xA;CRYSTAL LIGHT - 300g&#xA;OG: 1.053&#xA;Mash efficiency: 73%&#xA;&#xA;**Brew 3**&#xA;Marris Otter Pale 5kg, &#xA;Flaked Oats - 500g, &#xA;Dark Chocolate - 500g&#xA;Roast Barley - 500g&#xA;Dark Crystal - 250g&#xA;OG: 1.055&#xA;Mash efficiency: 66%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I improve efficiency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things tried so far (which have now improved efficiency):&#xA;1. stirring the mash regularly&#xA;2. 2 step mash at 62c and 66c&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16415" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T21:13:20.500" Title="Poor mash efficiency - help please" Tags="|mashing|efficiency|sparge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23354" CreationDate="2018-09-05T00:08:36.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don’t have specific experience with Mangrove Jacks’ process, but, yes gelatin works very well in clearing beer. I have used gelatin for years in my beer.  Although measurements vary a bit, mix approximately 1 tsp of unflavored powdered gelatin to 1 cup of water heated to 150F, too much hotter and you’ll make jello (not the goal here). The gelatin will work best when your beer is cold, so chilling your beer prior to mixing the gelatin is a good idea.  Once your beer is chilled, gently pour the gelatin mixture in the beer, a gentle stirring with a sanitized spoon will complete the process. Now, keeping the beer chilled, allow it to sit for a few days, generally I usually give it a week and you should see that your beer has cleared. A very gooey trub will settle at the bottom of your fermenter.  Once cleared, rack the clear beer into your keg or bottling bucket and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastEditorUserId="16399" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T00:21:30.903" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T00:21:30.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23352" CreationDate="2018-09-05T01:02:49.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's intended to be dried before use with anything that has significant surface area contact with beer or wort. Lines, fermentors etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only exception is the wet assembly of sanitary valves etc. Which insures the sealed areas do not grow bacteria. They should then be dried before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T01:02:49.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23355" CreationDate="2018-09-05T02:47:00.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water chemistry, particularly mash pH, can have a large effect on efficiency. My first step would be to check the pH of the mash and make sure you're in the 5.2-5.8 range (ideally closer to the low end of that range). It's also important to measure volume correctly, have you calibrated whatever you use to measure out water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T02:47:00.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23350" CreationDate="2018-09-05T02:51:13.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't increase the carbonation without increasing the pressure or decreasing the temperature. Presumably the temperature is about right, so that leaves the pressure. It sounds like you need to check out some of the line balancing resources available. &#xA;The basic steps for carbonating properly are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;determine desired carbonation level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use maths or a carbonation chart to determine the pressure and temperature required to achieve the desired carbonation level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select appropriate beer line - you need to have line that has enough resistance to slow the beer flow to a manageable rate &lt;em&gt;with the pressure set to carbonation level&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;edited for spelling&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastEditorUserId="16544" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T23:13:50.317" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T23:13:50.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23322" CreationDate="2018-09-05T10:02:48.100" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your friend was right: you shouldn't reuse the fermentation vessels after a wild yeast fermentation. Wild yeast will usually remain in any scratches and irregularities in your plastic fermenter's inner surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's often easier and cheaper to just buy an extra fermenter that will be used for wild fermentations only, but if you must reuse the one you already have (e.g. you're using one of the fancy expensive ones like the FastFerment), you can sterilise it using sodium hydroxide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be aware though that sodium hydroxide is corrosive and can cause nasty burns. Always handle with caution and remember to wear gloves!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to obtain sodium hydroxide granulate rather easily. Prepare a 3% solution in warm water and fill the fermenter. Leave for 30 minutes. Afterwards, dispose of the liquid, rinse thoroughly with water and use an acid to neutralise the remains of the sodium hydroxide (Starsan is fine, though you can use pretty much anything, e.g. citric acid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14050" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T10:02:48.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23349" CreationDate="2018-09-05T10:51:02.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, there is nothing like a one fifth gravity beer. 1/5 = 0.2, which means nothing in terms of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question must be answered in three parts, the first part being what are you measuring, how it is done, and what the results say, and the second part is about the work the yeast does, and the third about fermentability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hydrometer is your basic tool, which measures the density of a sugary water solution. When you measure 1.000, then you have pure water. When you measure in a solution with sugar then this number increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before fermenting (after the boil), you measure the original gravity (OG). After the fermentation you measure the final gravity (FG). From this, the apparent attenuation is derived by the formula (OG - FG) / (OG - 1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is called the apparent attenuation. The reason for this is that the solution now also contains alcohol in addition to water and sugar. This has as a consequence that the liquid density (alcohol + water) is now less than that of water, and your hydrometer actually sinks lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer already part of your question: &quot;spirit indication&quot; is not taken into consideration, nor are other solids in solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for the second part. Wort is actually a very complex solution of all kinds of different sugars, in different kinds of concentrations depending upon the different malts used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attenuation of yeasts is influenced by two parameters: the number of different sugars that yeast can ferment and their flocculation, the rate of dropping to the bottom of the fermentation vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attenuation given by the producer of the yeast mostly indicates if yeasts will consume more differentiated sugars, and are, as a result, capable of attaining a higher attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is also influenced by the flocculation. When the yeasts drop out of the beer, there will be less fermentation as a result. If it would be possible to regularly rouse the yeast, then fermentation would go on (in England they used to do this, certain English yeast strains drop out rather fast, and the brewers would then roll the casks where the beer was kept to get better attenuation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can influence the fermentability of your wort by playing with the mash temperatures, but there are no hard and fast rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two enzymes in the mash, alfa-amylase and beta-amylase, which convert starches to complex and simple sugars. Alfa-amylase works best on starches, but its optimal temperature is around 70° C. Beta-amylase works best in converting complex sugars to simple sugars, but it works best at 64° C. These enzymes don't last in the mash, because they are denatured by the temperature of the mash. This takes its time of course, but the higher the temperature, the faster they are denatured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean for fermentability? A rule of thumb is that mashing for a long time at 64° C will create a very fermentable wort, while mashing at higher temperatures will decrease the fermentability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's not possible to put figures on this, i.e. if you mash at this temperature, you will get this kind of fermentability is not something that can be put into tables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience is that most yeasts do ferment wort in the ranges given by the producer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if the only thing you have is a particularly attenuating yeast, then mash at higher temperature, e.g. 67° C or 68° C, and see what happens to your FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T10:51:02.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23355" CreationDate="2018-09-05T15:43:27.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forget about the mash timer.&lt;/strong&gt; A mash is done when there's no more starch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finer the grain crush, the more mash efficiency you will get. Up until it's so fine that it gets stuck. Finding that balance on a system is usually trial and error. Though in your case you may find other robobrew users and follow thier suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes pH and water chemistry play a big roll in mash effeciency, but only to the extent that ideal levels save time as the enzymes can work more efficiently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So more time will compensate for other short commings in a mash.  Use an &lt;strong&gt;iodine test every 20 min&lt;/strong&gt; to know when the mash has converted all available starches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T21:13:20.500" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T21:13:20.500" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23352" CreationDate="2018-09-05T18:42:37.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using this method/product ever since and never noticed an Iodo like flavor in the finished beer. As @Evil Zymurgist said, make sure the bottles are dried before bottling the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T18:42:37.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23349" CreationDate="2018-09-05T23:12:08.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything Chthon said is sound, but to put it a little more concisely, fermentability and attenuation are two unrelated things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wort fermentablility refers to what proportion of the wort consists of fermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attenuation refers to what percentage of available fermentable sugars a yeast strain will typically ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two things are both important factors in determining final gravity, but they do not actually affect one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that help you at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T23:12:08.743" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23352" CreationDate="2018-09-06T03:54:01.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Potentially&lt;/em&gt; it can. However, at the &lt;em&gt;recommended dilution level&lt;/em&gt;, and if you drain the sanitized equipment well (i.e. not leave puddles of sanitizer) the impact on flavour is not perceptible. Especially for stongly flavoured beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I'd recommend using starsan wherever possible. Not only it's a &lt;em&gt;true&lt;/em&gt; no-rinse, but it has smaller surface tension, which helps it to spread like a thin film on plastics, which results in better sanitation. It's not safe for aluminium, though, and that's exactly where I still use iodophor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T03:54:01.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23120" CreationDate="2018-09-06T11:48:34.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I did. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ales I’ve been making have an optimal range fermentation temp. of between 18C and 22C. However I have found that leaving my wort to it’s own devices will see it’s temp going well up to 26C. Which is on the high side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My environment is relatively warm as such I have use a chest freezer as a brew cupboard, but I built a rig similar to this :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/8pyfLyn6Ayk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/8pyfLyn6Ayk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This guy built it for an aquarium, but I built vertically the same thing for my brew cupboard (aka chest freezer).&#xA;I set the temp to about 20 and put the thermometer in the freezer but not connected to the wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works perfectly and using the stick-on temperate palate on the side of the carboy shows that it’s sitting perfectly as expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an inexpensive method (except for the freezer) but works very well and there is little manual intervention during the initial fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T11:48:34.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23405" CreationDate="2018-09-07T15:44:51.573" Score="4" ViewCount="724" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at creating my first yeast starter for a DIPA recipe with on O.G. target of 1.085.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this O.G. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend&lt;/a&gt; is telling me I would need a 3L starter of an O.G. of 1.040 with a stir plate to hit my cell count (assuming yeast is 1 month old) (oh, I'll also be buying 2 packs of yeast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast starters work far better with a stir plate, however, stir plates cost an absolute fortune and there's no way I can justify spending that kind of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What viable alternatives are there to stir plates which will help the starter?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe some sort of underwater fan? Placed in such a position to the side of the vessel it creates the same whirlpool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, erlenmeyer flasks cost an absolute fortune. With additional headroom over 3L the flask would need to be 5L? At that size they are very costly. Altogether with a stir plate that seems to be coming in around the £500 mark. Is there any particular benefit of an erlenmeyer flask? Surely any ol' container will do? I've seen a pretty huge glass vase in the local charity shop for a few quid and I'm hoping to hear that'll do just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T18:16:10.863" Title="Alternative to stir plate for yeast starter (and erlenmeyer flask)" Tags="|yeast|equipment|yeast-starters|stir-plate|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23367" CreationDate="2018-09-07T16:58:05.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Use various size canning jars, I have the, from .5L up to Half Gallon. &#xA;I only fill them up Half way to 3/4 full. And when making the starter, I leave the lid partially screwed on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then during the process, every time i walk by Open up the jar swirl Then  I spend about 10 seconds shaking it with the lid on Tight. then crack it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T16:58:05.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23367" CreationDate="2018-09-08T10:13:24.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a 750 ml bottle, sanitised aluminium foil and a rubber band. Keep aerated by stirring it gently, occasionally during the first 12h; I stir every 6th hour or so. After 18-48h I use it or refrigerate it for later use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.whitelabs.com/resources/homebrew-starter-tips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;White Labs instructions&lt;/a&gt; for reference, no matter the brand of yeast I buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="15826" LastEditDate="2021-07-27T18:16:10.863" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T18:16:10.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23295" CreationDate="2018-09-08T16:47:52.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &quot;Methods of modern homebrewing, Chris Colby&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In reality, given the increasing probability of contamination with each repitch and the presence of new mutations, five to seven generations is a safe rule of thumb. That said, some commercial brewers have strains they've repitched for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This guy is a biologist, so I assume he knows his stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never reused up to the fourth generation, because I do not brew very often, and the third or fourth generation or so would be almost 10 months old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastActivityDate="2018-09-08T16:47:52.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2924" CreationDate="2018-09-08T16:51:36.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that the answer is to use as a multiplying factor .13125, ie &#xA;OG 1040 minus FG 1009, gives 31 degrees drop, so multiply by .13125 = 4.06875, just tack a % sign on the end of it and you have it! I believe that this figure is what Brewers Friend use in their calc',  Graham Wheeler used .131, I have also seen .1293 as a multiplying factor, I agree with the above writers, it is not linear and is only approximate between 4% and 6% beers.40 years ago I wrote to 4 breweries North South East and West in this country, Two of them said multiply by .128, and the other two said divide by 7.78. !!  So there you go. Take your pick.&#xA;But I think that .13 is best, if you know your 13 times table, - Cheers all. Nick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2018-09-08T16:51:36.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23373" CreationDate="2018-09-08T18:44:50.587" Score="3" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking through single hop recipes pretty much anywhere. When I came a across brewdogrecepies.com I was a bit surprised to find their dry hopping is pretty aggressive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the recipes use 5-10 times amount of dry hop as any other recipe. &lt;a href=&quot;https://brewdogrecipes.com/recipes/amarillo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://brewdogrecipes.com/recipes/amarillo&lt;/a&gt; does serve as an example. 250g (9 US ounces) for a 20L (5 US gallon) batches for most hop varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this normal for single hop ales?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I only use dry hopping for my single hop ales occasionally, when the hop has promising aroma qualities to it. Is there a point to do it even if it's not typically an aroma hop?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="15826" LastEditDate="2018-09-08T20:39:13.070" LastActivityDate="2018-09-08T22:53:40.893" Title="Aggressive dry hopping schedule normal?" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23372" CreationDate="2018-09-08T22:46:12.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Is this normal for single hop ales?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe for brew dog it is, and homebrewers at my local club have done this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;I only use dry hopping for my single hop ales occasionally, when the hop has promising aroma qualities to it. Is there a point to do it even if it's not typically an aroma hop?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Hops have aroma and flavor, just some are better then others, or some that give off an aroma that is desirable to the brewer. Its personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some notes for dry hopping and the amount used. may not be relevant to you . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my research on dry hopping, if you want more hop aroma and flavor, you have 2 ways of achieving it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Method 1) Less hops for longer in secondary/aging/conditioning &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Method 2) More hops less time in secondary/aging/conditioning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The research below shows within the first 24 hours, majority of hop oils get extracted, then plateau off but still slowly extract the oils. Also it is dependent on hop variety and humulinones, iso-α-acids, α-acids&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a saturation point for these oils where no perceptible change in flavor or aroma?  Maybe, but I could not find any research papers or studies done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I can't speak for brewdog and why they use so many hops, but it looks like a &quot;go big or go home&quot; mentality with single hop brews. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/321907055_Dry-Hopping_the_Effects_of_Temperature_and_Hop_Variety_on_the_Bittering_Profiles_and_Properties_of_Resultant_Beers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dry hop research&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2018-09-08T22:53:40.893" LastActivityDate="2018-09-08T22:53:40.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23380" CreationDate="2018-09-09T23:16:49.760" Score="3" ViewCount="1760" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have used Star-San for years in my home brewing, I recently saw some information on the web that it should not be used on aluminum substances, i.e. pots, kegs, etc.  Reviewing the pdf about Star-San I don’t see any mention of avoiding contact with aluminum.  Anything to this information? If so, what if you left some diluted Star-San in a keg for a period of time by accident?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastEditorUserId="12043" LastEditDate="2018-09-10T15:22:31.193" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T15:22:31.193" Title="Star-San and Aluminum Issues" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14894" CreationDate="2018-09-10T01:15:17.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can add a spring to the internals of your cheap faucet to make it close automatically. You can use the self closing tap springs for Intertap faucets, but you will have to cut them down to fit. You should also consider grinding the cut ends smooth to avoid scratching the insides of your taps. I did this and it worked for me. Of course, finding a spring that is manufactured to the appropriate length, diameter, and strength and from a food-safe material would be preferred. I do not know the size and strength required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased self closing tap springs for Intertap faucets with the hope that they would work in my faucets. I purchased my keezer used and cannot find identifying marks of any kind on the faucets, so I don't know what brand they are. They are chrome plated, not stainless, so I assume a basic &quot;economy&quot; faucet that came with a keezer kit purchased by a previous owner. The Intertap springs were WAY too long. After some trial and error I cut them down to about 1/4 of their original length and ground the cut end smooth. They now fit and appear to close the tap. I don't have any beverages in the system right now, so further testing to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I have been using the keezer for about one year with the springs in place. With the &quot;standard&quot; black plastic tap handles the springs close the taps very effectively. With larger, heavier tap handles the springs still work, but, as you would expect, there is less &quot;snap&quot;. I always give the taps an extra small push just to make sure they are completely closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16589" LastEditorUserId="16589" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T17:30:30.233" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T17:30:30.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23375" CreationDate="2018-09-10T03:32:15.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used StarSan for economics reasons. But I remember reading something on John Palmer's book &quot;How to brew&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do not clean aluminum shiny bright or use bleach to clean an aluminum brewpot because this removes the protective oxides and can result in a metallic taste. This taste-detectable level of aluminum is not hazardous. There is more aluminum in a common antacid tablet than would be present in a batch of beer made in an aluminum pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find this on &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/appendices/appendix-b/brewing-metallurgy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Appendix B&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastEditorUserId="12043" LastEditDate="2018-09-10T03:48:16.403" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T03:48:16.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23239" CreationDate="2018-09-10T06:17:39.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use plato, and the formula for that is (OG-FG)/(2.0665-0.010665*OG). You can find that in Fix&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T06:17:39.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2924" CreationDate="2018-09-10T09:20:29.060" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another dead easy way for assessing the alcohol content of a beer, is to simply divide the OG radicle by 10, and then add .1 after the decimal point, ie 1040 would become 4.0, plus .1 = 4.1%     This does not work on beers that have a large amount of higher than average fermentability malts or sugars in them, nor will it work for the 'thicker beers that have malts with a lower percentage fermentability. This is why I choose to calculate on the points of gravity drop, and use .13 as a multiplying factor. Cheers all Nick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T09:20:29.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23375" CreationDate="2018-09-10T14:40:47.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kegs are stainless steel, not aluminium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starsan is actually a good acid to pacify (restore oxide layer) Stainless Steel. Spray and let air dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminum is treated completely different. Though it does have a fair to good rating for the acids in starsan. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.industrialspec.com/images/files/aluminum-aluminium-chemical-compatiblity-chart-from-ism.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.industrialspec.com/images/files/aluminum-aluminium-chemical-compatiblity-chart-from-ism.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminium would not be a good storage container for mixed starsan IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as SS kegs, I've had starsan in them for weeks with no I'll effects. I've also aged sours in them for over a year with pH as low as 3.2 with no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T14:40:47.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23367" CreationDate="2018-09-10T14:47:09.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A stir plate does two things. Both can be done manually by swirling your vessel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Provides the yeast a good amount of oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduces yeast lost, from lifting out with krausen and drying on the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put your starter in a common place like in the kitchen and swirl of whenever you walk by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Erlenmeyer flasks are unique in that they are made of Pyrex and can be used to boil starter wort in on a gas burner. They also have a flat bottom for use on a stir plate. The tapered shape does little to aid a starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any food grade glass vessel with an opening foil can cover is fine for a starter if you boil and cool wort before adding it to the vessel. 1 gallon wine jug work great and is much cheaper than a 5000ml flask. Mason jars are perfect for small starters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thrift stores usually have old coffee pots which work really well. They too are heat safe and have flat bottoms. If the pot has any plastic just remove it.&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Some may have a warning not to boil liquid in them, but in my experience this is because they have some plastic handle etc. I have used these over gas flames and in the microwave to boil wort water.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OlDx2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OlDx2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-09-10T15:03:17.450" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T15:03:17.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23394" CreationDate="2018-09-10T19:43:24.637" Score="4" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering to buy a 200 litre pot from stainless steel for brewing. Those with an integrated thermometer are significantly more expensive than those without and I was wondering if the integrated thermometer is worth the money. What is the advantage of an integrated thermometer compared to a &lt;em&gt;conventional&lt;/em&gt; rod thermometer? ... well obviously they are integrated and I suppose more &lt;em&gt;convenient&lt;/em&gt; but what else? ... are they more accurate or better in any other way? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZHfKw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZHfKw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15641" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T04:37:33.330" Title="Integrated thermometer compared to rod thermometer" Tags="|temperature|temperature-control|brewpot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4248" CreationDate="2018-09-10T20:34:55.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has any of you who favor wash/rinsing, taken a look at,- Just say &quot;no&quot; to yeast rinsing - page 1 - Yeast and Fermentation . Its from www.homebrewersassociation.org    Its an eye opener,-changed my attitude, now I go the easy way. Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T20:34:55.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23386" CreationDate="2018-09-10T22:01:40.747" Score="5" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;first timer at both cider and kegs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been reading that pumping oxygen (air) into a keg as the beer level goes down in order to maintain carbonation is bad as the oxygen will reignite the yeasts and alter the beer's taste. Is this still true for cider ? Do I really need CO2 tanks for the job ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16560" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T07:23:34.133" Title="kegged cider and oxygen" Tags="|carbonation|cider|kegging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23384" CreationDate="2018-09-10T22:09:59.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes oxidation is an issue for most if not all, fermented drinks. If you don't want to invest in a full tank, you can buy cartridge adapters for your system, which will maintain CO2 pressure for serving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theweekendbrewer.com/products/keg-charger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to example product&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T22:09:59.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23384" CreationDate="2018-09-10T22:39:15.980" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you will oxidize the cider (or beer or wine) if you don't use CO2 or some other inert gas like Nitrogen (but that has it's own problems). Oxygen will not &quot;reignite&quot; the yeast. Yeast will happily ferment with CO2 or Helium or Nitrogen or whatever gas you use. Make sure your cider is done fermenting, then put it in the keg. Purge the headspace with CO2. Then seal the keg and charge it up. You will need to put it in a fridge to get to serving temperature. At this point, just treat like beer and there are many articles about how to keg your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T22:39:15.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23384" CreationDate="2018-09-11T07:23:34.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding oxygen doesn't maintain carbonation, and this is even if the oxygen addition is pressurised. Only CO2 will help to maintain actual carbonation, as it's carbon dioxide which is released during fermentation. Adding additional CO2 as the keg empties both creates the pressure required to get the brew out of the keg, and ensures the brew doesn't go flat, and doesn't change the flavour of the brew in the way that other non-inert gases might.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are a number of small keg devices where you can use a built in hand pump to push the brew out of the keg.  You are less likely however to notice oxidised flavours at first, and more likely to find the brew starts to taste flat.  This is because oxygen is released more quickly from the beer than the CO2, and in doing so is likely to &quot;pull&quot; some of the CO2 out with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, some ales can benefit from a small amount of oxidation, particularly when they've been formulated to be drunk without additional carbonation, however these are brews that generally don't keep well (agitation increases oxidation), and so they need to be drunk relatively soon after kegging. These should generally be dipped or pumped out, rather than pressurised, to reduce introducing additional O2 to the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't necessarily need to purchases a huge CO2 rig to maintain carbonation and pressure, although this is the optimal configuration in most cases. There is also the option - preferably for small kegs of 5L or less - of using an adapter for readily available Soda Stream gas bottles (or similar).  If you're using larger kegs, you'll need a larger rig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1995" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T07:23:34.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23393" CreationDate="2018-09-11T11:47:14.677" Score="1" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;Newbie here. First post, only my 2nd batch of home brew and my first partial grain brew. I did a pale ale &quot;Northern Light&quot; from BestCase.ca.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my problem... the instructions had a big bold statement &quot;DO NOT LEAVE IN PRIMARY FERMENTER FOR MORE THAN 5 DAYS&quot;. So, being paranoid, I racked on the 4th day. The SG went from 1.048 to 1.020. I thought I was good (now I know I should have looked for consistent readings for a few days straight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No I have a secondary full of very cloudy beer. There's some sediment gathering on the bottom but the SG hasn't changed (still at 1.020). No krausen is re-forming or much of any bubbling is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What now? Should I just leave it and hope it clears up? Should I add in more yeast? Am I at risk of bottle bombs if the SG doesn't change and it stays cloudy (suspended yeast goes active in the bottles?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(dark spot on top is just a shadow)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRWyE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRWyE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16592" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T11:45:15.237" Title="Racked Too Early... Now What?" Tags="|racking|cloudy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23388" CreationDate="2018-09-11T13:21:51.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people leave their beer for a longer time in the primary and many don't event rack to a secondary.  So no worry here.  The most important concern is sanitation, not the number of days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cloudy beer is normal at his stage, and it will take a few days to clear, but it will clear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your fermentation could be finished at 1.020.  It depends on the recipe/ingredients.  Usually, krausen will only form in the first 24h, the following days the fermentation slows down before it stops.  If your beer stays at 1.020 for 3 consecutive days, it means fermentation is done.  Verify what the kit specifies for finishing gravity, I rarely hit the number specidied with my Coopers kits.  No need to add more yeast, unless you think you have a stuck fermentation.  Make sure the temperature is in the range specified on the yeast package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kits are sometimes low on alcohol and people often add some sugar or dry malt to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure not to shake your fermenter when you bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T13:21:51.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10637" CreationDate="2018-09-11T15:09:29.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Galapagos Jim mentions, the Vinator is AWESOME!!! I find it really reduces the consumption of StarSan solution and makes bottle cleaning a breeze. The tree is great too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your question, as others have mentioned, I only ever mix maybe 1-2 gallons and use a spray bottle to throughly clean the equipment, countertops, my own hands, etc. and I fill the carboy with it and shake shake shake. I fill my airlocks with it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16592" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T15:09:29.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23335" CreationDate="2018-09-11T19:05:55.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recipe that I came up with that I will be brewing after my current one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100% 2 row pale malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;34 IBUs using noble hops, bittering only &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SG 1.060&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG unknown, due to caramelization of sugars during baking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast - any neutrel yeast, but a Saison yeast would be interesting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Procedure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash, medium to light body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bake in large baking dishes with high lip, sorta like lasagna dish. 450F till dark brown my guess is 3 hours, let cool in oven. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sparge baked mash till desired  volume and gravity &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make Hop Tea, then add to FV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Take 120g bitter hops (14% alpha acid) and 50g aroma hops (5-6% alpha) and boil them for 30 minutes in 2 liters of water. There was no very clear aroma of hops in the beer, so some noble hop will probably work best. &#xA;  Blockquote&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would scale this down and use 1L of tea, and calculate for 34 IBUs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment as normal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will update this in a few weeks when I finalize the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI this is a no boil beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2018-09-11T19:49:12.357" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T19:49:12.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23388" CreationDate="2018-09-12T03:09:20.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fine. There's plenty of yeast in suspension to complete your fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any yeast or sediment that was left behind in the primary is of little use and this beer won't miss it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let it ride out in this vessel until you hit TG. 1.020 is a little sweet for a pale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T03:09:20.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23382" CreationDate="2018-09-12T03:28:26.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt accuracy are that different. But these integrated thermometers  as you called are way easier to handle, especially when mashing (closed lid). This one you showed is SS, therefore much more robust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brewpot you wanna buy is the one in the picture, then I  would guess that this difference in the price is not only due to the thermometer itself+fittings. They put this shinning SS case to make the kettle look nicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.polsinelli.it/en/thermometer-with-stainless-steel-aisi-304-cockpit-65-mm-P1464.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;same thermometer&lt;/a&gt; in this picture costs 16 euros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I would buy one SS thermometer, like the one in this picture, and install it by myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you don't want to drill a hole in the kettle, then you could buy one like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/large-dial-frothing-thermometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T03:28:26.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23382" CreationDate="2018-09-12T04:37:33.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The integrated thermometer &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; already be sanitary-welded into your vessel.  The higher price tag is maybe from the significant amount of work involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installing a thermometer yourself involves either welding, or using a weld-less fitting - typically sealed with a silicon washer and thread tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are you using this pot for?  If it's a kettle, then the temperature isn't that useful anyway.  For water and mashing sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to watch out for, is that if you are using this vessel as a Hot Liquor (Water) Tank, the water settles into layers at different temperatures. The water needs to be circulated past the temperature probe for accurate readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T04:37:33.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23429" CreationDate="2018-09-12T08:31:12.940" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;No special instruments / meters available. Is there an approximate way to tell when the alcoholic fermentation has stopped ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking so I know when to add the MLF yeasts in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Viniflora CH16 should be added to dry wine, immediately after the&#xA;  alcoholic fermentation. Viniflora CH16 should always be inoculated&#xA;  directly into the wine. No rehydration or reactivation is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16560" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-09-12T19:48:22.350" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T00:10:58.677" Title="when does the alcoholic fermentation end?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|primary-fermentation|alcohol-content|yeast-cultures|measurements|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23388" CreationDate="2018-09-12T11:45:15.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Racking a little 'early' - particularly to secondary - can be fine.  You can do this for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Removing the excess 'dead' yeast materials and other sediments can reduce the extent to which the trub might contribute odd/off/unplanned flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The mild agitation which occurs when racking will release suspended CO2 and expose the brew to a small amount of oxygen.  While oxygenation can risk oxidation, allowing the yeast to have a little addition oxygen during fermentation can ensure the yeast will work a little more efficiently - aerobically converting sugars - than it would without oxygen (anaerobic conversion).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A more efficient fermentation can ensure your final gravity target is more likely to be reached, particularly when you're aiming for a drier finish.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Removing the trub means that the cloud/yeast will be more likely to drop out more completely and leave a clearer brew.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some reasons to avoid racking early - particularly directly to bottles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Resulting brew can be cloudier than you might intend.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Resulting brew can end up with more sediment than you might intend.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bottle carbonating is tricker, because it can be difficult to determine how much bottling sugar to add, and the risk is that you overcharge your bottles, which under excess pressure and warm temperature can crack/pop/explode.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned about the excess sediment, then I'd suggest you allow your brew to edge a little longer before consumption.  Over time, sediments compact, and they cling to the bottle better.  When you eventually do open and pour, pour slowly, and leave a little of the brew in the bottle to reduce the chance of pouring out the sediment. Some people like a little sediment in their brews, while others don't, so drinker's choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, opening up your bottles to add yeast will risk introducing rogue yeasts/bacteria entering, and will simply add to the sediment in the bottles.  If there are any residual sugars - which there will be if you've racked early - then the existing yeast will continue to ferment the sugars within.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally... if you're concerned about bottle bombs, you can always &quot;burp&quot; the bottles, carefully removing and replacing the caps to expel any excess pressure. This can however be a bit of a hit and miss affair, and can risk leaving your brew flatter than you want it to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1995" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T11:45:15.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23396" CreationDate="2018-09-12T12:12:43.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have no other instrumentation, look at the airlock.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brew is fermenting, there is always going to be positive pressure against the liquid in the airlock, even when fermentation is relatively slow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the room temperature drops and the liquid seems to be creeping back towards the brew, this indicates negative pressure, and suggests that fermentation has either stopped, or that the temperature is too low for the yeasts to continue to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously though, for a couple of bucks it's generally easier to get yourself a hydrometer, and take a measurement to see if you've reached your target gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1995" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T12:12:43.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23396" CreationDate="2018-09-12T12:31:17.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;CO2 in suspension will cause bubbles to come out of the airlock long after the fermentation is done.  It is an indicator, but not a precise one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experience will tell you that for a particular yeast/wine, fermentation takes, for instance, 5 days to complete if all parameters are identical.  Again, it is not precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should get an hydrometer and mesure gravity to be sure.  Anything else is a guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T12:31:17.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-12T12:43:56.573" Score="6" ViewCount="5764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in my first year making apple-cider from harvested apples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fermentation started 10 days ago. I let it bubble for 7 days and I filled some of clear juice it into a small bottle (using a Lightning type stopper) - just to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday evening I wanted to open the bottle to try. When flipping the stopper, 3/4 of the beverage spurted out. (I expected something like this and was outside). What was left was quite good, but didn't have any bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did I do wrong? How to avoid these kind of explosions? How to stock cider into bottles correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16594" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T01:53:03.490" Title="How to avoid homebrew-cider to explode out of the bottle when opening?" Tags="|bottling|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23400" CreationDate="2018-09-12T15:52:41.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you need to wait for fermentation to stop before you bottle it, as co2 is being produced in the bottle and builds up the gas inside. Once fermentation  has stopped you can filter it and you will have a still cider. If you want fizzy cider you can add a very small amount of yeast to the bottle but I guess you may need to experiment with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16595" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2018-09-12T17:52:41.417" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T17:52:41.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23400" CreationDate="2018-09-13T01:53:03.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the cider is still under active fermentation - even if it does not look it.   The yeast is consuming sugar, producing CO2, alcohol and flavours.  The CO2 gas is over-pressurising the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottling incomplete fermentation into glass can be dangerous!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simple advice is to just wait, then bottle only when fermentation is complete.  A small amount of sugar (or more juice) can be introduced into the cider at bottling time to provide just enough further fermentation for carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how does one monitor the progress of the fermentation?  There's a few devices to measure this. A &quot;hydrometer&quot; is a simple floating density meter.  As the yeast consumes sugar and produces ethanol, the density of the liquid deceases (the density of ethanol is less than that of water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the changes in density stop for 3 days, and the stopping-point is at an appropriate finish, you can infer that fermentation is complete.  Then it's OK to bottle.  Side-Note: a poor fermentation can stop half-way, then restart later - say because of cold temperatures, that's why it has to be a reasonable stopping point too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing this, in a PET bottle (i.e.: plastic soft-drink/soda bottle) bottle after 10 days, but then test for carbonation by squeezing the bottle.  When it feels somewhat hard, put them in the fridge.  This will &lt;em&gt;slow&lt;/em&gt; the fermentation, not stop it.  If left long enough, the PET bottles will still over-carbonate, even in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T01:53:03.490" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23396" CreationDate="2018-09-13T03:55:44.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have an hydrometer, just keep a close eye to the airlock and give it a few days (3-5) after the activity has stopped. Mind that this is not the correct way to do that and there's no guarantee that your fermentation has finished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only proper way to know that is to take periodic measurements of the density and determine when the gravity has stopped declining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16599" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T03:55:44.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23243" CreationDate="2018-09-13T04:01:00.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's perfectly fine, however the best way to conserve a strain of yeast that you already have on hand is by making an oversize starter and saving a portion of it or slanting the yeast. this way you prevent most of the problems that comes with yeast reutilization from batches, like contamination and the pain of isolating a pure colony of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16599" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T04:01:00.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23367" CreationDate="2018-09-14T00:00:28.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could build a stir plate - you probably already have most the stuff laying around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 1: Gather a computer fan, power supply, stir magnet, and neodymium magnets and 2 L mason jars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 2: Glue 2 neodymium magnets to the computer fan facing upward, with one + side up, the other - side up. The diameter should be the length of your stir magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 3: Connect the power supply to the fan via the molex connectors and jumper the green wire to the black wire. The fan should spin, if you want to use a on off switch you should wire it in here, between the green and black wires from the motherboard connector. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.silverstonetek.com/downloads/QA/PSU/PSU-Paper%20Clip-EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.silverstonetek.com/downloads/QA/PSU/PSU-Paper%20Clip-EN.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 4: Sterilize everything. Then, throw the magnet into the jar, set the jar on the fan to drive the stir magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 5: Add water, yeast, and sugar at the amounts recommended by white labs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T00:00:28.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23407" CreationDate="2018-09-14T07:25:28.393" Score="3" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would it be incorrect to say a Lager is a lighter (in flavor) beer that takes a long time to make, while an Ale is a heavier more flavorful beer that can be made in less time than a lager? Ignoring the fact that each method uses a completely different family of yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T15:46:13.263" Title="Lager vs Ale a comparison" Tags="|brewing|lager|ale|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23406" CreationDate="2018-09-14T10:58:46.397" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are actually conflating a couple of things, which can be all used in combination, and all of these combinations can be true. These are flavor, fermentation and time to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern lagers are light in flavor, and do not take a long time to make. The breweries don't want much stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lagers which have more flavor and definitely take longer time to make, like bock, doppelbock and Baltic porter. Really traditional Pilsner also needs its time, but has more flavor than modern lagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ales which are light in flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While most ales can be brewed relatively fast, there are also ales which need longer time to mature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also ales which are lagered like lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flavor is a function of malts and adjuncts (e.g. rice), alcohol content and used hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time to make is a function of yeast, fermentation temperature (some people use lager yeasts at higher temperatures), alcohol content, and even water composition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, the long lager time of traditional Czech pilsner has more to do with the softness of the water than the fermentation. The lagering time of some beers in Germany has more to do with the length of the brewing season, which ends in April or May, where the last brews were then stored till after summer in cold caves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T10:58:46.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23409" CreationDate="2018-09-14T14:25:14.497" Score="3" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made some burton bridge from a kit and secondary-fermented it in a 25 litre keg with a tap and a cap capable of taking a CO2 cartridge holder (none was fitted)&#xA;I left it in our warm utility room (circa 22°C) for five days to second-ferment with a standard amount of sugar then it was stored in the garage between 16-20°C  (daytime). No leaks evident anywhere as the pressure was normal initially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time the barrel was half empty the carbonation seemed less and the beer a bit flat, certainly different tasting to initial pours. I'm just taking a pint glass at a time rather than filling a jug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on why this might be happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15602" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T16:21:10.833" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T19:08:23.223" Title="Carbonation Disappearing" Tags="|carbonation|keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23408" CreationDate="2018-09-14T16:27:12.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;my best guess is no leak, but as you pour, if you dont continue to keep the pressure constant, the carbonation will come out of solution, and you will continually get flatter and flatter beer as you pour more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;example would be drink half of a 2L of soda, then let it sit with a cap on. in a day or 2 you'll notice the pressure will go up, and the soda will be flatter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advised is buy a co2 cartridge to keep the carbonation up and the oxygen out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T16:27:12.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23408" CreationDate="2018-09-14T19:08:23.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As beer is dispensed, you get more and more headspace. That headspace has to be filled with something. If air can come in from the outside, it will, and oxidation will change the taste of your beer. If the system is sealed, some of the CO2 which was dissolved in the beer will be pulled back out as gas, reducing your carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16601" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T19:08:23.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23428" CreationDate="2018-09-14T19:46:24.897" Score="2" ViewCount="3527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just made my first ever batch of beer, and it turned out great! The only thing is that my priming sugar calculation was slightly under what it should have been. I added 1/4 cup honey to a (finished volume) 2.5-gallon batch, and I should have been closer to 1/3 or 1/2 cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is carbonated, but it could use a little more. Is there &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; way to increase the carbonation? I.e. by, in a sanitary environment, opening the bottle, adding a bit more priming sugar, and re-capping? Assume that I have enough head space to actually do that (I do, because I was afraid of my bottles exploding so I left a bit more than I needed to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm happy with how the beer turned out regardless, so it's not a big deal. In my next batch I can just increase the amount of priming sugar. But bubbles are nice, so I'm curious: &lt;strong&gt;can I increase the carbonation of already-bottled beer?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16151" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T23:26:38.977" Title="Can I increase the carbonation of already-bottled beer?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|bottle-conditioning|priming|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23406" CreationDate="2018-09-14T19:50:34.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's actually the opposite. One of the reasons you use a lager yeast in a light lager to get a rounder, fuller flavor out of the same malt bill, and avoid some of the fruity flavor notes that ale yeasts can generate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Samichlaus is a dark, malty 14% ABV lager that is similar to the barleywines which are fermented with ale yeast. The Baltic Porter style is another high gravity lager (its an imperial porter, more or less), so there is no guarantee of lightness in a lager, even though the more popular ones tend to be on the light side these days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16601" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T19:50:34.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23411" CreationDate="2018-09-14T20:02:59.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, maybe. You can add a measured amount of sugar and that can increase your carbonation but you're inviting other problems.&#xA;1. The yeast may have temporarily stalled out, and if it takes off again it could ferment the existing unused sugar plus the new stuff, creating the potential for bottle bombs.&#xA;2. You could miscalculate the amount to add, also creating the potential for bottle bombs.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. You're adding one more chance for infection, which has its own hazards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this also assumes that your yeast hasn't stalled out due to high ABV. One way to encourage your yeast to do a bit more work is to store your bottles somewhere fairly warm for a while. Probably not in direct sunlight, but the mid 80s would be no problem. With the tiny bit of fermentation being done, you won't notice it in the flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16601" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T20:02:59.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23411" CreationDate="2018-09-14T20:03:53.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe yes, &#xA;Depends on how much yeast is left in the bottle and how much risk you want to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easiest way is add a carbonation drop into each bottle and recap. &#xA;Next would be to add maybe half a teaspoon of sugar or honey to each bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does have some issues, if the carbonation drop is meant for 12oz bottle then this could over carbonate, and both have issues of introducing other things to your beer. both could create bottle bombs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is drink as is, and next time add more priming sugar. &#xA;If you happen to add sugar or carb drops, test on one or two bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T20:03:53.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23422" CreationDate="2018-09-14T20:30:50.027" Score="1" ViewCount="632" Body="&lt;p&gt;More specifically:&#xA;Some time ago I switched from fly sparge to batch sparge. My motivation was that I noticed quite a bit of channeling on deeper grain beds with the fly sparge. Batch is quicker and at least as efficient, but seems to generate a fair bit of trub. I'm guessing this comes from the fact that I have to settle the grain bed multiple times, and run off multiple times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I vorlauf the friggin' bejesus out of it. I have a March pump and recirc the mash for at least a couple of minutes. Maybe some kind of inline filter would help me but I don't want to deal with the BS of having a stuck sparge because my filter is clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other thought is opening up the gap (currently 0.035) to something more like 0.050 so less of the malt gets powdered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes? No? Maybe? What else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16601" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:12:39.093" Title="Looking for ways to reduce trub" Tags="|mash|batch-sparge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7428" CreationDate="2018-09-14T20:36:20.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make mag has some great stuff and this seems promising:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://makezine.com/2014/03/28/homebrewing-and-arduino-the-perfect-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://makezine.com/2014/03/28/homebrewing-and-arduino-the-perfect-recipe/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Includes links to open source projects. I know I'g going to check it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16601" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T20:36:20.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23257" CreationDate="2018-09-14T21:03:42.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be totally good to go using the maple syrup without any treatment, because it has been simmered for quite a long time to make it into syrup. No worries there so long as your syrup folks have good sanitation. (The probably do.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your apple cider is definitely suspect because yeast is every-friggin-where, including apple skins. The standard way to deal with this problem is campden tablets, AKA potassium metabisulfite, or possibly sodium metabisulfite. Add one tablet to each gallon of of cider 24 hour prior to adding your yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16601" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T21:03:42.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7152" CreationDate="2018-09-15T02:40:06.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I make Mead I use brown sugar about 2 table spoons in 10 Liters of honey water mix. I also put light malt into the mix at about 3 parts honey to 1 of Malt.&#xA;Works well every time. I was looking for natural nutrients and the brown sugar and malt are doing the trick. You can put in more brown sugar if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16602" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T02:40:06.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23420" CreationDate="2018-09-15T03:00:44.200" Score="1" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/23415/looking-for-ways-to-reduce-trub&quot;&gt;Looking for ways to reduce trub&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;And since I also fly sparge, I would like to know how to detect channeling in the grain bed?&#xA;I always leave around 3cm of water over the grains, and when the wort is almost completely drained, the grains surface is almost flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T03:50:21.160" Title="How to detect channeling when fly sparging?" Tags="|sparge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23419" CreationDate="2018-09-15T03:50:21.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bad news is that you can't detect channeling while you are fly sparging... but you can see it afterwards. This works best in darker beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the mash get something to scoop out the spent grain. A stainless steel mixing bowl worked pretty well for me. Scoop out a bit of the grain, then look at what's in the bowl and what's left in the mash tun. Look for darker sections that are the color of your wort and lighter sections that are just the color of spent grain. Repeat this process until you have emptied the mash tun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to see lighter and darker sections that identity the channeling if it is happening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16601" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T03:50:21.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23406" CreationDate="2018-09-15T15:46:13.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lagers and Ales are called such because of the yeast species are different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lager yeast : Saccharomyces pastorianus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ale yeast: Saccharomyces cerevisiae&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference between the species is the S.pastorianus can consume Maltotriose (a complex sugar) and S.cerevisiae cannot.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;This makes lagers lighter and cleaner in many aspects compared to same wort fermented with ale yeast.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes called top or bottom fermentors tradionally referring to flocculation and temp.  But many strains can behave like the other species with flocculation and even ferment well in the other species temp ranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short just because you Lagered a beer (cold fermentation, aging) doesn't make it a Lager. The yeast species is what makes the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T15:46:13.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23415" CreationDate="2018-09-15T16:29:40.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trub is a post fermentation byproduct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you have clear wort out of your sparge, adjusting the mash or grist won't help the trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best ways to limit fermenter trub is to leave the hot/cold breaks in the kettle. Bag hops and other additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjust your boil volume to leave behind a healthy portion in the kettle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chill and whirlpool in the kettle let the whirlpool settle before transferring to fermenters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The biggest reduction in trub I got was abandoning the use of boil finings like whirlfloc or Irish moss. I found it fluffed the trub too much and I could get much better compaction in cold crash. I saw no difference in the final beers clarity. Haven't used them since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:12:39.093" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:12:39.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-16T09:00:53.483" Score="1" ViewCount="3802" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I reduce the taste of yeast in my homebrew? Obviously filtering but are there additional options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15641" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:07:31.640" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T00:07:34.133" Title="Reducing the taste of yeast" Tags="|yeast|taste|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23423" CreationDate="2018-09-16T12:07:29.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common ways I’ve come across to keep a beer (and perhaps ale specifically) free from yeast in suspension is to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mature the beer properly and let the yeast fall out of suspension due to inactivity (patience is king when making beer) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use fresh yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and if necessary cold crash the ale for a few days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if neither of the above options suffices you can add a fining agent like gelatin and cold crash even more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you’re reusing yeast from a previous batch be sure to wash the yeast. I don’t know of any practical filtering techniques for home brewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="15826" LastEditDate="2018-09-17T19:20:09.637" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T19:20:09.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23423" CreationDate="2018-09-16T17:12:01.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gelatin is a great fining agent that will pull the yeast out of suspension, the taste of gelatin itself is absolutely undetectable in beer and the grocery store Knox unflavored gelatin will work just as well as anything you get from a homebrew store. Just be sure that your fermentation is complete before you start this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat 1/2 to 3/4 cup of water to to 150-155F.&#xA;Add 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of gelatin and stir to dissolve the gelatin.&#xA;Add it to your fermenter, stir just a little bit, chill the fermenter and wait a day or so. Overnight usually seems to be plenty for me but I'm using a refrigerator. You should end up with brilliantly clear beer. at least on the lighter styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16601" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T17:12:01.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11432" CreationDate="2018-09-16T17:47:43.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you add your entire starter to the wort, you're doing it wrong. Like Denny says, chill it, decant it, and then add the yeast slurry to your wort. No calculation necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a massive starter to a beer changes the recipe in unknown ways and potentially passes along any off flavors that might exist in your starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16601" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T17:47:43.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23259" CreationDate="2018-09-16T23:10:11.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just made a Czech Pilsner at a little higher temp.  Once it finished fermenting I racked it off the trub into an sanitized secondary that would fit into my frig.  I let it get very cold, then added gelatin to further clear the Pilsner.  I let it sit for a week or so in the frig, it got very clear. At that point I racked it into a keg and I let it lager for a few weeks in the cold frig. The result is a very clear crisp Pilsner, with a creamy head, delicious.  This worked well for me, you may consider the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T23:10:11.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23411" CreationDate="2018-09-16T23:26:38.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have such experience, and it's possible: there is, almost always, enough yeast in the bottle to process the extra priming sugar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things to check before you try and do it:&#xA;- are you sure all priming sugar has been consumed and turned to CO2? It takes a at least couple of weeks for bottled beer to properly condition;&#xA;- does it make sense at all? Unless you're going to enter a competition of sorts, drink it as it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: honey is a lousy priming sugar, because of its unpredictability. Use either table sugar (sucrose) or cane sugar (aka glucose/dextrose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, to the process. Don't try to add dry sugar or carbonation drops, or your beer will start foaming right from bottles. Instead, make a sterile rather concentrated sugar syrup, where you know sugar contents per ml. Say, 0.5 gram per ml -- then you know, for example, that you can add 3 ml to each bottle. You're gonna keep the syrup hot, otherwise the dissolved sugar may precipitate. Get a sterile syringe. Chill your bottles very well. Then open each bottle, quickly add syrup and close it immediately. Leave bottles for another week or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T23:26:38.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23396" CreationDate="2018-09-17T00:10:58.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't rule out the approach of tasting the wine, as a complementary test. It is not really a fermentation test but you can have an idea about how much sugar is left in the must (wine?). Of course, you can taste the wine easily if the fermentation tank/bucket has a spigot. I enjoy tasting the wine several times along the fermentation period and having a feeling of the fermentation evolution. I know that the wine is ready for the secondary fermentation when it feels dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15148" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T00:10:58.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23423" CreationDate="2018-09-17T00:23:53.030" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are good answers about removing yeast cells from existing homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But your question asks about &quot;yeast taste&quot; - this is not just particulates.  So I wanted to add an answer covering some of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many flavours generated by yeast during fermentation.  There are two ways to common ways minimise these flavours:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Saccharomyces#Phenolic_Off_Flavor_Strains&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;POF Negative&lt;/a&gt;&quot; yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure a good fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast Selection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewers yeasts are divided into POF Positive or POF Negative strains.  Without going into too much detail, this indicates whether the yeast is biologically predisposed to produced Phenolic flavours.  Lager strains, and many ale strains are POF-negative.  They produce a &quot;clean&quot; flavour profile.  A good example would be Safale US-05.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves the POF positive yeasts - in this section are yeasts used to produce a lot of Belgian beers, and also German Hefeweizen.  These produce many notable aromas &amp;amp; flavours - and are used in these styles because of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Good Fermentation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the yeast flavours are produced during the first few days of fermentation.  Factors influencing this are also how healthy the yeast is, how abundant the yeast pitch was (both under and over), and fermentation temperature.  The higher the temperature, and abnormal pitch-rates stress the yeast, causing it to produce more (perhaps unwnated) flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some good rules of thumb - &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/article/aerating-wort-techniques/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;oxygenate your wort properly&lt;/a&gt;, pitch a proper amount of yeast, and keep temperatures on the cool side - especially for the first 72 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the primary phase (the sometimes really bubbly bit) of fermentation is complete, the yeast is still working.  Make sure you leave enough time for the yeast to do its job.  Some undesirable compounds are normally created during fermentation.  In the later stages, the yeast re-processes these compounds, removing these flavours from the beer - obviously if the yeast is removed or refridgerated, it never finishes this stage.  Often allowing the beer to warm a little during this phase helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just so there's some numbers here ~ &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use pure O2 for 90 seconds / 20 litres, or shake your fermenter vigorously to aerate the wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch a full packet of yeast, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/rehydrating-dry-yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;after rehydrating&lt;/a&gt; it.  Or make a starter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment ales between 17 &amp;amp; 20C, Lagers between 7 &amp;amp; 14C - at least for the first phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow the ferment to run to completion, at least a week, but 2 weeks wont hurt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting a good fermentation is the key to making good beer.  If you want a clean tasting beer, use an adequate pitch of POF negative yeast into a cool, aerated wort.  Let the yeast do its job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-09-18T00:07:34.133" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T00:07:34.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23433" CreationDate="2018-09-17T03:20:05.293" Score="1" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assembling an HERMS equipment and noticed that very few people use the coil as chiller after the boiling is over. Besides all the sanitation of tubing, lines, pump, etc..., is there any other drawbacks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: The coil will be permanently attached to the kettle and brewing two batches in a single day is never going to happen. I have no space to ferment two beers at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastEditorUserId="12043" LastEditDate="2018-09-17T12:53:50.747" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T12:53:50.747" Title="How to properly use the same coil of an HERMS setup as chiller?" Tags="|techniques|chilling|wort-chiller|chiller|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23431" CreationDate="2018-09-17T09:33:24.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How are you assembling it? If you're just dropping the coil into hot water for its HERMS function, then there's no reason you couldn't dump it into hot wort with cold water running through it to chill. If, on the other hand, you're mounting the coil permanently into the hot water bath for the HERMS, then you're going to have a hard time chilling with it. Additionally, if you use the one coil for both purposes, you could never chill and mash at the same time (in the event that you brewed twice in one day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T09:33:24.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23435" CreationDate="2018-09-17T10:35:47.957" Score="7" ViewCount="590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cooked up my first Double IPA recipe over the weekend but have seriously missed the mark with the target gravity. So much so it most definitely won't be a Double.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target O.G. = 1.085&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Actual O.G. = 1.050&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Malt bill&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The malt bill was as follows:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;75%    Maris Otter  &#xA;12.5%  Malted flaked oats  &#xA;10%    CaraHell  &#xA;2.5%   CaraPils&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A volume of 30L gave me a rough required extract for 1.085 gravity of 6.66kg. After adjusting the weights for their efficiencies/max yield I came out with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                               Weight      Max Yield    Actual weight&#xA;Maris Otter           75%      4.995kg     82.5%        6.055kg&#xA;Malted flaked oats    12.5%    0.833kg     70.0%        1.190kg&#xA;CaraHell              10%      0.666kg     74.0%        0.900kg&#xA;CaraPils              2.5%     0.167kg     71.4%        0.234kg&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gave me a total weight of 8.401kg. My mash and sparge volumes were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash = 26L&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sparge = 16L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mash&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mash started off a little too hot and so I ended up doing a 150 minute mash. The readings went as so:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;T = 0    temp = 72.7ºC&#xA;T = 20   temp = 71.6ºC&#xA;T = 40   temp = 70.1ºC&#xA;T = 60   temp = 68.0ºC&#xA;T = 80   temp = 66.5ºC&#xA;T = 100  temp = 65.8ºC&#xA;T = 120  temp = 65.4ºC&#xA;T = 150  temp = 64.9ºC&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After transferring the wort to the boiler, where it sat on at a low setting for a couple of minutes while I added the sparge water to the mash tun, I had a wort temperature of 68.4ºC and a gravity reading of 1.034. Adjusted for temperature using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;brewers friend&lt;/a&gt; it came out with a reading of 1.051. I was a bit despondent at seeing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My sparge after finishing had a reading of 1.017 and a temperature of 73.1ºC. Brewers friend only goes to 71ºC but it gives a rough gravity of 1.035.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were 400g of hops in the boil/flame out. After boiling and cooling the wort I topped it up with about 3.5L of the leftover sparge water and a further 2.5L of water to top it up to 30L (I also used some of that sparge water to top up the boil). My end gravity was 1.050.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brewhouse efficiency&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Writing this out I realise I did not adjust my recipe for brewhouse efficiency. However, assuming I did nothing wrong, that gives me an appalling efficiency of 58.8%. That is so bad I think there was something more to it. Had the gravity been in the region of 1.064 I could safely write this off as a failure to accommodate for the brewhouse efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So while I aimed for 1.085, after adjusting for a rough brewhouse efficiency of 75% I should have hit 1.064. I actually hit 1.050.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Why was I so far off the mark?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Are there any tips for consistently hitting high target gravities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastEditorUserId="3032" LastEditDate="2018-09-17T11:06:14.653" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T16:26:34.957" Title="Why did I miss my high target gravity? By quite a lot. Is it just my brewhouse efficiency?" Tags="|specific-gravity|efficiency|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23434" CreationDate="2018-09-17T11:12:52.763" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly the high temperature. You started out at 73° C, which is already at the high side for the alfa-amylase enzymes, which convert the starches into complex sugars. While at this moment, the beta-amylase enzymes, which convert the complex sugars into simple sugars, are not yet denatured, two things work against them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The high temperature, which will denature them very fast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fact that they work better between 62°C and 64° C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in the hour between start and finish, you are still at 68° C. This means that at this moment, the beta-amylase enzymes are pretty well all destroyed. At the same time, the denaturation of the alfa-amylase enzymes has probably stopped, but now you have entered a temperature range where they do not work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mashing this long time has probably made the alfa-amylase enzymes do enough work to have at least some modicum of gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had waited from topping up your wort after the boil, you would have had wort with an OG of 1.063. Before adding water after the boil, first measure your gravity. Then you could still have added some sugar to increase your OG (I calculated that you could have added 1.5 kg of sugar, which would be about 15% of the total fermentable bill. Since it is a Double IPA, that should not have been a problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T11:12:52.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23434" CreationDate="2018-09-17T16:26:34.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;More bad news: If you didn't like the OG, you'll probably like the FG even less. This is because higher mash temps produce more complex (and less fermentable) sugars. You want to be making disaccharides like the maltose which will be converted to alcohol, but you probably made a lot of trisaccharides and unfermentable dextrins like maltotriose, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you overshoot your mash temps again, throw some cold water in immediately. It's way better to have a mash that is too thin than a mash that is too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16601" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T16:26:34.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23438" CreationDate="2018-09-17T14:34:14.617" Score="4" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first batch, I followed a recipe using malt extract to create a West Cost IPA.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The wording of the recipe made me invert the Hop additions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit]&#xA;Instead of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2oz of Centinennial at 0mins left in boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1oz of chinook at 10mins left in boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1oz of columbus at 60mins left in boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2oz of Centinennial at 60mins left in boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1oz of chinook at 50mins left in boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1oz of columbus at 0mins left in boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my reading I realised it would be a very bitter beer with poor aroma... I estimated the IBUs at 105. Am I wrong?&#xA;Will dryhopping with Citra can help my beer to taste something better than just bitterness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8oz Victory Malt (steeping grain)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9 lbs Gold liquid Malt Extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 pkg Safbrew US-05 Dry Ale Yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original Gravity was at 1.050&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16606" OwnerDisplayName="Boubou" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-09-18T15:15:15.273" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T15:15:15.273" Title="Messed up West Coast IPA recipe, could dryhopping make it good?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|dry-hop|ipa|extract-brewing|taste|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23437" CreationDate="2018-09-18T00:23:04.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wait!!!  Does the beer taste good?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, just leave it, it wont be as bitter as the recipe sure, but good beer is good beer.  It's probably OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hop additions are numbered by the amount of boil time in minutes.  So a 60 minute addition boils for 60 minutes, and a 0 minute (or &quot;flameout&quot;) is added at the end of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So given you reversed your hop additions, one would expect it to be less-bitter - especially because the biggest lot of 2oz bittering hops were added at 0 instead of 60 mins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so it's too sweet or unbalanced, or you want to tinker with it - there a few ways to do this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple way is to make a &quot;hop tea&quot; with a plunger-style coffee maker.  Put boiling water in with a bunch of hops - maybe 1oz (28g), or if it &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; needs more bittering, perhaps 2oz(56g).  Let it sit for a while to dissolve/isomerise the hop acids (this happens whenever the water/wort is roughly &gt; 80C (176F)).  You can taste the tea to determine the bittering level.  If you are adding this to the fermenter, let it cool a bit beforehand.  Obviously you are also diluting your beer with this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you are left with the question - how much do I add?  I can't answer this - but you can do it to taste.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2016/08/31/using-hop-extracts-for-beer-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pre-isomerised hop extract oils&lt;/a&gt; - these can be added at any stage.  Once again, you can add these to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But honestly - I think you could just leave it, everything will be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you must, and a huge whack of dry hops (citra + simcoe) and go for an East Coast IPA / NEIPA.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-09-18T00:46:46.640" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T00:46:46.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10728" CreationDate="2018-09-18T07:52:47.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did it all by hand and it didn't take long. I crushed them by hand, a bunch at a time and let the juice run into a muslin bag inside a clean vessel, I let what pulp and skin came off fall into the straining bag. I discarded the rest, stems and all into a waste bucket once the juice stopped flowing. Repeat until bucket empty. Remember that there is a lot of juice locked up in the pulp in the bag and squeeze it out well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The waste went into the composter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15602" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T07:52:47.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10728" CreationDate="2018-09-18T18:27:43.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For small quantities, a quick blast in a food processor will suffice. For larger quantities, get two, close fitting, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;food grade&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; plastic buckets, fit one with a tap at the bottom and fill it with grapes. Put the second bucket on top and fill it with water. It's not perfect and you won't get as much juice as from a proper press, but it's a cheap and serviceable solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 gallon buckets that are used to hold mayonnaise should be reasonably easy to get from bakers/sandwich shops. Make sure you get plain mayo ones only, flavoured mayos can leave a hard to remove taint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16607" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T18:27:43.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23165" CreationDate="2018-09-18T19:23:20.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my personal experience, cold crashing &lt;strong&gt;does&lt;/strong&gt; help to clear the booch a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a homebrewer who has started to brew kombucha. I've only got 4 kombucha brews under my belt and I've been kegging since my 2nd batch. After a day our 2 in the keg (and a cloudy pour or 2) the kombucha is very clear and has a hint of color from the fruit used. This is also common with homebrewed beer as the yeast and proteins in the kegged product tend to settle to the bottom of the keg at cold temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I'm using a similar brew process to you. I hope to have the time to document all of this with a blog post at some point in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should also note that I brew in a fermenter with a conical bottom. When I rack the kombucha, I pull it from above the cone, so there is a decent amount of yeast/sediment left behind. I brew and add fruit in one vessel and then transfer to the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Comment added to answer per suggestion above.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6777" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T19:23:20.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-19T12:39:54.510" Score="3" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anybody experimented with blending different varieties of apple for &quot;hard cider&quot;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Locally I have an apple variety called &quot;Blenheim Orange&quot; and also an unidentified cider apple. Using just the cider apple produces a very vigorous fermentation even at 20°C but the result is pretty bland. The B.O. apple ferments much slower and unpredictably but produces a more interesting flavour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying a blend of the two this year and just wondering what success others may have had in blending eating / cooking apples for cider making?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15098" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-09-19T12:55:46.130" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T17:09:56.407" Title="Blending different apple varieties for hard cider (uk)" Tags="|cider|ingredients|recipe|flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23442" CreationDate="2018-09-19T13:11:32.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once bought ready to ferment juice from an Orchard, and they mixed 3 different variety of apples to make the juice.  I think it is common practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is to get a balance of acidity and taste.  Since sugar is fermented, the acidity of the apple remains and becomes stronger, so mixing different types helps to balance this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you really need to try it to know what works best.  If you can split your batch into 2 or 3 small fermenters, you can try different proportion of each variety of apples (50%/50% or 75%/25%).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other options&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people also add some dry malt to their cider and even some hops.  You might consider these options as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Addendum&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember using 2 fermenters with the same juice using different yeast in each (one dry, one liquid).  And the results where slightly different.  So yes, the yeast also has an impact on the final result.  The liquid yeast (I think it was WYEAST 4766 for Cider)  produced a more mellow cider, better in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-09-19T17:09:56.407" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T17:09:56.407" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23451" CreationDate="2018-09-19T19:32:35.537" Score="2" ViewCount="1940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making wine per this recipe &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.farminmypocket.co.uk/home-brewing/recipes-home-brewing/elderberry-wine-recipe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.farminmypocket.co.uk/home-brewing/recipes-home-brewing/elderberry-wine-recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I quadrupled the quantities to give me 18L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the point where I am supposed to add sugar and top up to 18L (after a week of extraction), I made the mistake of topping up first, then realising I hadn't added the sugar! Then by the time the sugar was added there is now about 22L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So obviously I have too much water in the wine. What do I do here (if anything). Will this be a problem? (Will my wine taste too weak?) And if so What can I do about it? The obvious answer is to get out and pick more berries, squeeze out their juice without any more water and throw it in. But is this a good course of action or will I wind up making it worse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific gravity is 1.110 after a day of fermenting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15502" LastEditorUserId="15502" LastEditDate="2018-09-20T20:48:31.613" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T20:48:31.613" Title="How to fix too much water in wine?" Tags="|wine|brewing|dilution|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-19T20:47:21.923" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up 6 gallons each of Cabernet Sauvignon and FRENCH COLOMBARD from a local vendor here in Providence,RI. I used red star dry yeast, the cab started fermenting almost immediately but it’s been almost 24hrs and the Colombard isn’t moving yet. Should I be worried? I am making Brandy with both vessels BTW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16612" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T02:04:15.083" Title="FRENCH COLOMBARD Won’t start fermenting" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23239" CreationDate="2018-09-19T21:49:26.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The relationship is not linear so multiplying by 0.13 or 0.131 works for the majority of 4-7 percent beers roughly, but you need to factoring in the gravity drop and weigh this against the effect of the alcohol on your gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV = (OG - FG) * factor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a table of the factors to use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(OG - FG)   % ABV        Factor&#xA;&#xA;Up to 6.9    Up to 0.8   0.125&#xA;7.0 - 10.4   0.8-1.3     0.126&#xA;10.5 - 17.2  1.3-2.1     0.127&#xA;17.3 - 26.1  2.2-3.3     0.128&#xA;26.2 - 36.0  3.3-4.6     0.129&#xA;36.1 - 46.5  4.6-6.0     0.13&#xA;46.6 - 57.1  6.0-7.5     0.131&#xA;57.2 - 67.9  7.5-9.0     0.132&#xA;68.0 - 78.8  9.0-10.5    0.133&#xA;78.9 - 89.7  10.5-12.0   0.134&#xA;89.8 -100.7  12.0-13.6   0.135&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T21:49:26.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-19T23:48:27.047" Score="2" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing for a number of years, bottling most of my beer. I turned to kegging my beer about two years ago. Mostly, everything is fine, however, recently while carbing a batch of beer I didn’t notice a very small leak in the keg lid and over two days I lost 5lbs of CO2.  Lesson learned, now it is checked carefully.&#xA;I have two kegs in the frig, both carbed and set at a serving level. I was wondering if turning the CO2 off when not serving is a good idea or will I start to lose CO2 from the beer that’s in solution?  Mild worry that if something leaks I can lose another 5lbs of CO2. Never turned it off before, just wondering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T00:28:33.350" Title="Should I leave serving pressure on after carbing beer or cider?" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23447" CreationDate="2018-09-20T00:03:57.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally it's OK.  You should only lose gas if there's a leak.  This goes for whether the bottle is turned on or not.  It's a closed system, the CO2 should stay at the same pressure, and thus dissolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically everything should stay in the much the same state. So there's no reason to leave your gas turned on (other than convenience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning your gas off allows you to detect leaks too - without losing a bottle of CO2!  Say the beer is all fully carbonated, and you turn your gas off. When you come back in a day/week/whatever, turn the gas on - nothing much should happen.  But if you hear the noise of the the kegs re-pressurising, then you know something is leaking (somewhere).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if a beer is not already carbonated to serving pressure (or the temperature drops), you would expect this to happen, as the CO2 dissolves into the beer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did exactly this last night.  Turned the CO2 on, the regulator &quot;groans&quot; for 30 seconds ... Hmmm, something is leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-09-20T00:28:33.350" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T00:28:33.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23670" CreationDate="2018-09-20T09:17:20.970" Score="2" ViewCount="827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm from Australia so we don't really have good access to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heady_Topper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Heady Topper&lt;/a&gt;, Treehouse or Trilium NEIPAs. I have been looking at the heady topper clone on byo.com -&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/recipe/alchemist-heady-topper-clone/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/recipe/alchemist-heady-topper-clone/&lt;/a&gt; (Note: Paywall, recipe posted below) and notice it doesn't have oats or wheat. So my question - even though this is one of the originals, compared with today's and other progressions of the NEIPA, is this more of a DIPA or are other brewers just adding sweetness/haze with wheat and oats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;INGREDIENTS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15 lb. (6.8 kg) British 2-row pale malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 oz. (170 g) Caravienne malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 lb. (0.45 kg) turbinado sugar (10 mins.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7 AAU Magnum hops (60 min.) (0.5 oz./14 g at 14% alpha acids)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13 AAU Simcoe hops (30 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 13% alpha acids)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5.75 AAU Cascade hops (0 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 5.75% alpha acids)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8.6 AAU Apollo hops (0 min.) (0.5 oz./14 g at 17.2% alpha acids)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13 AAU Simcoe hops (0 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 13% alpha acids)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10.5 AAU Centennial hops (0 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 10.5% alpha acids)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7 AAU Columbus hops (0 min.) (0.5 oz./14 g at 14% alpha acids)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 oz. (28 g) Chinook hops (primary dry hop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 oz. (28 g) Apollo hops (primary dry hop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 oz. (28 g) Simcoe hops (primary dry hop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.25 oz. (35 g) Centennial hops (secondary dry hop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.25 oz. (35 g) Simcoe hops (secondary dry hop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 tbsp. polyclar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Yeast Bay (Vermont Ale), GigaYeast GY054 (Vermont IPA), East Coast Yeast ECY29 (North East Ale), White Labs WLP095 (Burlington Ale), or Omega Yeast Labs (DIPA Ale) yeast (as a 3 L yeast starter)&#xA;2/3 cup (130 g) dextrose (if priming)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16415" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-09-21T16:43:21.067" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T18:56:13.363" Title="Is heady topper a NEIPA/ DIPA or both?" Tags="|dry-hop|ipa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23445" CreationDate="2018-09-20T11:21:01.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question, poses a number of other questions to get you good information.&#xA;Give it a couple of days, it may take a bit to get going, which is not unusual.&#xA;Which Red Star did you use? Sprinkle or make a starter?  If appropriate for your wine, was it fresh yeast.&#xA;Temperature of your must and environment within recommended range for your yeast?&#xA;If the answer to these question are within the parameters for your wine and it doesn’t take off I would add some yeast nutrient (used on all my wines), and use a EC1118 yeast. If it doesn’t ferment with that yeast, somethings seriously wrong with your must, as it can almost wake the dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastEditorUserId="16399" LastEditDate="2018-09-20T11:29:25.617" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T11:29:25.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23444" CreationDate="2018-09-20T14:20:25.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to answer without knowing the initial gravity of the recipe to compare it with yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding water to any wine will dilute it, but it might not be too bad if the wine was strong to begin with.  If your recipe produces a strong port-like wine, it might become more like a regular wine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to taste it and figure out if its too watery or not.  If it's too watery, you may try to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adding sugar:&lt;/strong&gt; this will add alcohol, but no fruit taste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adding more fruit juice:&lt;/strong&gt; will ferment and add taste and alcohol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blending with another wine:&lt;/strong&gt; might add alcohol and some taste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keep it as it is:&lt;/strong&gt; the wine might be good even if a bit weaker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's your choice.  If you add more fruit, it might be a good idea to wash or freeze the fruit to kill any bacteria, before crushing and adding it to the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanitation is key at this point, whenever you add or mix anything to the fermenter, make sure to clean and sanitize all equipment that will come in contact with the wine and do not open the fermenter for too long to minimize exposition to air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T14:20:25.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-20T19:10:38.463" Score="4" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing with fermentis S-04 and from experience (three years ago) I know that this yeast is slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This weekend I brewed a small batch and today the attenuation is 83% (according to the yeast's specification it should be 75% at most) only 4 days have passed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I suspect it's contamination, could it be something else?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Its a 18 liter (4.7 gal) batch and the recipe is 5Kg (11 pounds) of 6-rows base malt and 1 Kg (2.2 pounds) of cane sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I brew in México's Michoacan state, my temp ranges from 15 to 26&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16616" LastEditorUserId="16616" LastEditDate="2018-09-21T17:04:22.190" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T15:39:51.470" Title="Beer attenuates too much too fast" Tags="|contamination|primary-fermentation|attenuation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23452" CreationDate="2018-09-20T19:18:33.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;smaller the batch, usually the faster the fermentation will happen. &#xA;my 1.5 gal batches took less then 5 days to reach F.G.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also  with out a recipe posted, a more ferment-able wort will attenuate more. the given attenuation on yeast are for lab conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if it continues then yes, it could be contaminated, but if it stops, then its just the yeast doing its thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T19:18:33.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23449" CreationDate="2018-09-20T23:22:51.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;DIPA = Double India Pale Ale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NEIPA = New England (Style) India Pale Ale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect the DIPA to have a more pronounced bitterness over the NEIPA.  Both can have a huge amount of hop-character (other than bitterness), so they can't really be well differentiated on that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, given the overwhelming bulk of the hops are (non-bittering) 0-minute/flameout and dry hops, I would class this as a NEIPA rather than a DIPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then the brewery itself calls it's a DIPA, but it's also brewed in North Eastern USA.  So we're splitting hairs... Maybe it's a NE-DIPA!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T23:22:51.377" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23452" CreationDate="2018-09-21T06:23:27.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never found S-04 to be slow. Even on 500L batches, I've had beers with S-04 ferment dry in under 5 days. It also flocs out like a ton of bricks. Are you confident you don't have a contamination with another, more attenuative yeast? Are you also confident you got your OG and FG readings right, and calculated the AA right? As jsolarski says, without a recipe and more details, it's hard to say what's going wrong for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T06:23:27.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1746" CreationDate="2018-09-21T06:27:14.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been banking my yeast when I buy a new strain. Instead of cropping and washing, though, I overbuild my starter, then save half of that yeast. This save a lot of mucking about with washing and rinsing, and means that what I have stored is essentially first generation yeast. I find it really handy, and now have a freezer full of nearly pitchable quantities of different fun yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T06:27:14.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23452" CreationDate="2018-09-21T17:33:49.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mash temperature can also have an effect on attenuation (fermentability). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will quote Denny Conn, from this post: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/11037/yeast-attenuation-and-fermentable-sugars&quot;&gt;Yeast attenuation and fermentable sugars&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yeast attenuation is determined by the yeast lab under laboratory conditions, and it is only a way of comparing one yeast relative to another using the same wort. You may or may not achieve the attenuation that is listed for the yeast. It may be less, it may be greater than listed. That depends on the fermentability of your wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the fermentation temperature can affect the speed of fermentation, the colder the slower.  Many variables that can explain your concerns, so contamination is possible, but not necessarily it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-09-24T15:39:51.470" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T15:39:51.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-21T19:42:36.553" Score="1" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any insight is really appreciated as I'm quite confused. There was plenty of bubbling and fermentation appeared fine but when i opened the lid it came out very dark and flat. I know carbonation might get better after a few weeks in the bottles but I'm worried why it came out so pale. I have tasted one and it seems fine, just like a dark lager which is a shame.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjM3n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjM3n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16618" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T05:39:42.723" Title="My youngs pale ipa came out flat and quite dark" Tags="|ipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12494" CreationDate="2018-09-22T18:45:36.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A ginger beer plant is traditionally used with white refined sugar for the typical flavour.  It is OK to use unrefined sugars and they may help keep the colony healthy if used occasionally.  Try a couple of brews with white sugar to see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ginger beer plant should be primarily lactobacillus and the yeast Saccharomyces florentinus though it may be much more complex - it should not be dominated by acetobacter - if you follow a trad ginger beer recipe it should sustain the balance naturally. The scoby is very resilient and self balancing.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ginger beer will turn a bit more acidic of over the course of a few weeks - and if you like the soft buttery trad ginger beer complex flavour you should drink ferment 3-5 days in primary and just a day or two in bottle until it is  carbonated.   Are you simply keeping it too long before you drink it ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ginger beer is a quick simple brew that is normally made and drunk fresh and not stored for more than a couple of weeks at most - over which time the flavour will evolve. Mine gets drunk as soon as it is ready  - unlike my  wines that are often stored for years.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2018-09-22T18:45:36.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-22T20:01:34.060" Score="2" ViewCount="773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I crushed my  grapes added 5 lbs sugar and a wild yeast killer pectic enzyme. I haven't got the yeast for the correct grape wine process. It's been 6 days. The temperature has been maintained around 65-70°F (18-21°C). I'll be able to get my yeast in a couple of days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I wasted my time or can this be saved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16622" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-09-28T12:45:33.563" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T12:58:35.503" Title="How long can you wait till you add the proper yeast" Tags="|yeast|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23474" CreationDate="2018-09-23T07:10:16.487" Score="3" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used white labs abbey ale yeast - fermentation went well and flocculated quite a bit. I then bottled straight from primary. I noticed that not a lot of yeast went into the bottles which hasn't really happened before (usually there's a visible layer or sediment. Also doesn't help that it's quiet dark brown in a brown bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the bottles have been sitting for about 10 days now, so I cracked one open to see how carbonation was going and nothing...completely flat. Tried another bottle same thing - bottles are near new and were sanitised so that's not the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If only a small amount of yeast got in the bottles - should they still carbonate ok given more time or am I destined for a flat batch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;It is carbonating, just very slowly. They needed some rotation, a warmer room + time. 4 weeks and beer has low levels of carbonation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Most bottles have carbonated at 7-8weeks. I noticed some do not have a fine yeast layer on the bottom so could have somehow not gotten much. Another thought for the overall slow carbonation, is that I didn't mix/turn the bottles an hour+ after bottling when the sugar had dissolved. Other than that, it may be but down to super malty beers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16415" LastEditorUserId="16415" LastEditDate="2018-11-02T22:13:29.277" LastActivityDate="2018-11-02T22:13:29.277" Title="Bottled a Belgian ale not carbonating" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|belgian|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23462" CreationDate="2018-09-23T11:56:38.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple plan for bottle conditioning beer is to add sugar in some form to a bottle of beer, cap it and wait.  Is the temperature in the active range for the yeast?  I think you probably have plenty of yeast, I would roll the bottles a bit to insure a good mix and wait a bit longer in a good temperature environment.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The fuzzy science on adding more sugar at this point (usually in a simple syrup solution) is a crap shoot to get carbonation or bottle bombs.   Higher ABV beers will take longer to carb, not sure what your beer’s ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T11:56:38.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23461" CreationDate="2018-09-23T14:08:18.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you don't see any mold or activity of fermentation, you should be fine. You should put some sulfites in there to preserve it and kill off any wild yeast. Ideally, you should put it in the fridge or even freeze the whole thing until you are ready. Just rehydrate and pitch the yeast as soon as you get it. Hopefully, you'll see some fermentation in a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T14:08:18.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23491" CreationDate="2018-09-24T01:55:07.233" Score="4" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to take care of my crusher/destemmer and am noticing I washed off all the grease from the chain.  What lubricant can I put on that chain before I pack it up for next year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike chain lubricant?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Olive oil?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can sort of get a feel for the size of the chain in this product photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TKYgA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TKYgA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T21:35:08.040" Title="Crusher/Destemmer care: Chain maintenance" Tags="|crush|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23465" CreationDate="2018-09-24T04:01:09.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer indicates the use of grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once washing is completed, if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time, proceed as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Open the carter that protects machine gear. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Grease all chains, internal gear, supports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Grease the roller and the agitator support&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the info from  &lt;a href=&quot;https://morewinemaking.com/images/file.php?file_id=10430&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use olive oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-09-24T13:41:54.777" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T13:41:54.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-24T13:26:16.917" Score="2" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;After getting my grape juice in a bucket, I added the sugar and wild yeast killer. Didn't have the yeast to add before sealing it up. Checked the next day, it has a purple foam that collected on top. It's been a week, I should be getting my yeast in the next day or two.  The bubbler(airlock) on top bubbles at least once a minute. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I skim the foam that might still be collected top of juice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or stir it in when I add the yeast tomorrow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16622" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-09-25T13:40:12.050" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T13:40:12.050" Title="Time lapse, adding yeast a week late" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23465" CreationDate="2018-09-24T13:32:09.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any &lt;strong&gt;oil&lt;/strong&gt; will prevent rust, but would not last as long as grease.  You can use a vegetable/olive oil for parts that are inside/in contact with the fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bike chain lube&lt;/strong&gt; is designed to stick to a chain that will move fast and even generate heat, so it will work as well as grease.  It come in spray so it is very easy to apply.  I would use this for the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is also &lt;strong&gt;chainsaw bar oil&lt;/strong&gt; that can do the job for the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using &lt;strong&gt;grease&lt;/strong&gt; works for the chain, but I find it a bit more messy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T13:32:09.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23467" CreationDate="2018-09-24T14:36:27.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't skim anything.  That just feels like it's more likely to cause a contamination.  If there still is wild yeast in there doing something skimming won't really change that, you just want to dump a pile of active yeast in to 'beat' the wild yeast to the food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16388" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T14:36:27.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-24T20:59:23.357" Score="1" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I know why my F.G. is so high, but I would like to know what are my options to try and fix it and what are the pros and cons of each. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is my recipe and readings during mash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the options I see&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leave it alone and drink it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add amylese enzyme (uknown if my brew shop has it.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add Beano -- ( I have heard both good and bad)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add unboiled wort, that still has the enzymes, probably not possible due to barely any room to add more liquid. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add sugar, to bring up ABV to what I expected. (7%-8%)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash time 1.5 hrs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash Temp unknown, lost my digital thermometer during my move, was using a meat thermometer. &lt;em&gt;This is where I screwed up, I think I mashed way too high&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;S.G. 1.072&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;F.G. 1.041&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;est ABV ~4.5%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20Lbs 2 row&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1lbs dark caramel malt (no lovibond)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1lbs chocolate malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1lbs roasted barley&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1lbs special B&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2oz nugget 15% alpha&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 packets of WLP-002&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now it tastes pretty good, but I want to evaluate my options before I commit to kegging/bottling it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update-9/27/18&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast ferment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast Viability: 1/4 cup sugar, 1/3 cup of beer, still has yeast and will ferment simple sugars. did not take reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beano: Used 1 full pill for 1/3 cup of beer -- 48hrs Only dropped .002,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 10/04/18&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast Ferment with wort only, only dropped 2 points. final reading 1.038&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing more research, I have found Attenuation/fermentability drops like a rock at higher temperatures. So my fermentibility may only be around 44% according to my sources.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Effects_of_mash_parameters_on_fermentability_and_efficiency_in_single_infusion_mashing&amp;amp;redirect=no#Temperature_experiments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2018-10-04T23:26:01.893" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T23:26:01.893" Title="High F.G. Pros and cons of fixes" Tags="|fermentation|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23470" CreationDate="2018-09-24T23:03:14.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you have a pretty good grasp of where you went wrong, and what your options are. I would suggest one more approach though - blending. You could brew a similar beer, but make sure it overattenuates, then blend the two. You could use the same grist, but mash low and long, and you could also sub out a few pounds of base malt and replace with dextrose or cane sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T23:03:14.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-25T00:21:10.707" Score="4" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a New England IPA and kegged it.  The first few pours after moving around the keg come out very cloudy, with a few small leftover hop bits and likely some yeast in suspension.  These pours have a distinctive off flavor that I can best describe as metallic.  It also produces a slight burning sensation in the back of my throat.  However, later pours that come out clear have no sign of this off flavor and are citric, fruity, and delicious.  What is causing this flavor?  Is it in any way dangerous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: after further research, I've seen this described as &quot;yeast bite&quot;, and apparently it's common to NEIPAs.  I'd still like to know what it really is (what chemicals are involved)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1770" LastEditorUserId="1770" LastEditDate="2018-09-25T01:15:06.500" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T02:09:29.690" Title="What is causing an off flavor associated with yeast or trub?" Tags="|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23472" CreationDate="2018-09-25T03:45:40.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast bite is just the flavour of yeast in suspension. As they drop out, the bite disappears. It's possible, depending on the beer and the yeast, that if you have yeast still in suspension they haven't finished cleaning up, so that could contribute some flavours. But that's not really part of yeast bite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T03:45:40.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23462" CreationDate="2018-09-25T06:40:28.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a high gravity beer right?  Just wait, it will get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ensure they are stored somewhere good for ale temperatures (&gt; 15C / 60F).&#xA;If you're really worried, give them a gentle shake every day for a few days.  Just enough to rouse the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T06:40:28.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23344" CreationDate="2018-09-25T22:18:41.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a number of beers and meads that after a week, fermenting in fridge, have had the bucket covered in mold. I don't know which kind of bucket you use, I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.recozil.com.br/produtos/bombonas/bombona-30-litros-tr/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Since they are very well sealed, every time I had this &quot;problem&quot;, I washed the exterior with a washing brush and sprayed a sanitizer all over the exterior. Until now I had no contaminated secondary fermentation.&#xA;But be twice as diligent as when sanitizing it for fermentation. Oh, and when removing the lid, do it slowly, there might be some mold hiding in the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12043" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T22:18:41.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16370" CreationDate="2018-09-26T02:51:03.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Total dissolved solids in drinking water confer desirable taste and provide important, desirable, minerals to those drinking this water. Minerals generally include calcium, magnesium, potassium, and sodium compounds - often carbonates, bicarbonates, sulfates, and chlorides - all desirable substances. These are dissolved solids and a zero reading on a meter means that these important substances are absent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16629" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T02:51:03.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-26T04:04:13.263" Score="4" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a novice apple cider brewer and my first batch yielded a brew that tasted like white wine, very dry and virtually no carbonation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During fermentation, I saw bubbling for about 5 days, but I left it to ferment for 14 days total. Then I bottled it and chilled for another 2 weeks.  Temperature during fermentation was about 69°F .  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any obvious errors so far?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16630" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-09-26T12:38:05.547" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T14:46:20.200" Title="Lack of sweetness and carbonation" Tags="|cider|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23478" CreationDate="2018-09-26T06:53:44.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What was your recipe and process? Asking the question properly will get you a good answer faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought is that most of the sugars in apples are fermentable, so you will always get a pretty dry beverage unless you add some non-fermentable sugars, or kill the yeast before it is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the carbonation, if you waited for fermentation to finish before packaging, and did not add priming sugar, then your cider will be flat. Carbonation is created by yeast consuming sugar and producing CO2, which, in a bottle, goes back into solution, creating carbonation. No sugar, no fizz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T06:53:44.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23478" CreationDate="2018-09-26T14:46:20.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No errors, even if you didn't get the results expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;lack of sweetness&lt;/strong&gt; is normal since all sugar is fermented. You will see similar results with other fruit juice and even mead, when fermented dry they lose all sweetness.  To keep some sweetness, you have two choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stopping fermentation before its completion (with sorbate and sulfite)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Backsweeten with unfermentable sugar (stevia, Xylitol, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;lack of carbonation&lt;/strong&gt; is normal since the fermenter is designed to let the CO2 escape through the airlock.  To have a carbonated drink, you can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle condition (add a little sugar before bottling to trigger a small fermentation)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Force carbonate (using a CO2 tank)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perhaps a Soda Stream machine would work with cider (not with beer because of the foam)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to search for more details about these subjects or even ask new questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T14:46:20.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23472" CreationDate="2018-09-27T02:09:29.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like autolysis. Basically yeast death and canabalism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the cell ruptures it releases a lot of different compounds that create a lot of different off flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T02:09:29.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23341" CreationDate="2018-09-27T14:24:49.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up transporting the bottles in a following set up: put bottles to a plastic bucket and filled the space beetween them with insides of an old pillow. I packed the buckets to car in a way they could not move.&#xA;It worked quite well, none of the bottles exploded but I also drived quite carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16356" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T14:24:49.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23470" CreationDate="2018-09-27T17:36:20.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think this is Terminal Gravity even if mashed very high. Highest Terminal Gravity I've seen from complete Alpha-Amylase mash is around 1.030.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would try to get it to finish out by rousing the yeast and getting it warmer.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as what to do with a high FG beer that is indeed at TG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;leave it alone and drink it&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;That's one option, if it's enjoyable then do it. Be cautious of bottle bombs.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add amylese enzyme &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add Beano &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;These are both the same amylase and is your best option if it is at TG.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;add unboiled wort&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;No, unboiled wort has bacteria that will sour the batch or worse.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add sugar, to bring up ABV to what I expected. (7%-8%)&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;This would only work of you are at TG and yeast is still viable. But would only add ABV and would do little to balance the sweet / bitter.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Save it for blending. This would be a great base for a Braggot or Malted Cider. Again, only good if indeed at TG.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T17:36:20.770" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7924" CreationDate="2018-09-28T10:51:23.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the gravity drop and this varies the choice of factor.There is no constant factor.&#xA;See Moderator Mr Roads answer to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T10:51:23.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23461" CreationDate="2018-09-28T12:58:35.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;farmersteve&lt;/strong&gt; has a good answer, I just want to add some information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This part of the process is called &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maceration_(wine)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;maceration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, it is when you let the skin soak in the wine to retrieve color, tannin and flavour.  To prevent fermentation to start (the grape skin contains wild yeast) you may add sulfite and keep the temperature cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;yeast killer&quot; you used, probably contains sulfite and sorbate?  Anyhow, the effect will not last, they tend to &quot;evaporate&quot; in time, which explains why your wine is starting to ferment on his own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep it as cold as possible and add your yeast as soon as you get it (and bring the temperature back to normal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T12:58:35.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-30T10:09:11.360" Score="2" ViewCount="1155" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have done two lots of apple pressing recently. One about 6 weeks ago and another 4 weeks ago. On each occasion we got 5 gallons of juice. So far it has not fermented at all. I used sodium metasulphite to rinse everything out and was fairly liberal with it, but not stupidly so. Otherwise we have added pectinase and yeast nutrient to both barrels. The SG has not budged in this time and the juice (on Sunday last) tasted of apple juice. I have used 6 packs of good champagne/cider yeast with one batch and four with the other (three different sorts of champagne/cider yeast) and I have stirred and agitated (I racked off into another barrel and back again to get as much O2 in as possible). The sulphite strips suggest there is about 10 mg/l remaining so, theoretically, this should not inhibit fermentation. The back kitchen is warm enough.&#xA;The yeast has been sprinkled on the top several times and on some occasions has been encouraged to begin its fermentation by leaving it to stand in warm water with a bit of sugar added (I make bread, so understand yeast). I have given the yeast about a week to work on each occasion but to no avail.&#xA;Anyone any other ideas as to what I can do to encourage 10 gallons of apple juice to ferment? We did not have this difficulty last year (our first year when we had a 'vintage' brew) so we are stumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16645" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T10:00:04.833" Title="My apple juice is not fermenting" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-30T12:26:36.143" Score="4" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that after I open many of my beers, my caps still look perfectly intact. I.e not fractures stresses and are relatively clean still. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like such a waist to just chuck it. &#xA;Does anyone out there re-use theirs, and or what would be a good reason not to re-use caps? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the are cheap. But is that really the only reason to use new ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T19:11:32.247" Title="Re-using Caps in new Batches" Tags="|beer|bottling|capping|recapping|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23487" CreationDate="2018-09-30T13:01:52.750" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never considered reusing caps, in my opinion, they probably have suffered some sort of flaw in their ability to reseal a bottle and be able to retain pressure.   If you want to try a few caps after an inspection have at it.  Be sure to sanitize well before their use.  Considering their low cost it may not be worth the risk of losing a bottle of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T13:01:52.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23486" CreationDate="2018-10-01T01:53:16.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say it's the Sodium Metasulphite, inhibiting yeast growth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a lot of pure oxygen to defeat that oxygen absorber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one experience it took 4 liters of pure oxygen through a .5 micron stone on a stir plate. For 1 gallon of white grape juice that used a metabisulfide as a preservative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can do a full pitch of yeast and skip the growth phase the yeast won't need oxygen so the preservative has no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T01:53:16.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2366" CreationDate="2018-10-01T02:29:12.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The optimal temperature for Pectic Enzyme (Pectinase) is about 45 degrees Celsius. Any temperature above that will decrease the rate of enzyme action because the enzyme will become denatured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16646" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T02:29:12.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23465" CreationDate="2018-10-01T17:38:53.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found this to be a food-safe option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.petrolgel.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.petrolgel.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanitary Petro Gel from McGlaughlin Oil Company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reapply after each cleaning cycle (after a crush).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T17:38:53.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23465" CreationDate="2018-10-01T21:35:08.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a crusher just like that for a long time. You want to use food grade oil or grease. You can find this easily. Olive Oil will work in a pinch. I used Weston food grade silicone spray on many different pieces of equipment from pumps to crushers. &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0030HL3CO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Weston Food Grade Silicone spray&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should've spent more and got the stainless crusher model. The painted model will rust very easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T21:35:08.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23486" CreationDate="2018-10-02T09:21:49.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a good fermentation you need several things: sugar, yeast nutrients, oxygen, healthy yeast, and the right temperature. Sugar should be fine, given the fact that it's almost impossible not to have any in your case! Yeast nutrient you have added. That leaves oxygen, yeast health and temperature. Oxygenate (or at least aerate) your must and see if that helps. Proof your yeast by dissolving a teaspoon of sugar in about 1/4 cup of luke-warm water, adding a packet of yeast and letting it stand for about 15 minutes. You should see some activity in the form of foam floating on top. If there's none, your yeast is dead. I'm assuming your must is in the temperature range required by the yeast as specified on the package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had been working from commercially produced apple juice, my concern would be a preservative (pimaricin, potassium sorbate, etc.) specifically aimed at killing fungi (molds but also yeast). But apple juice from your own pressings would be free of all that. (Right?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that not all fermentations are readily apparent to the naked eye (or tongue). A hydrometer is the weapon of choice when it comes to finding out what is really going on. Take a gravity reading, write down the number, and take another one 48 hours after. If the second reading is exactly like the first one, no fermentation takes place. If it is slightly lower (on the order of 1 to 4 gravity points or so) you have a very slow fermentation on your hands (also not good). If it is significantly lower, you've got a proper fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary, ensure you've got enough sugar, live (&lt;strong&gt;and healthy!&lt;/strong&gt;) yeast, nutrients and oxygen in the mix at the right temperature, and you should get a fermentation. If you don't get any, these are pretty much the only possible causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T09:21:49.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23499" CreationDate="2018-10-02T09:37:08.050" Score="4" ViewCount="350" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewunited.com/yeast_calculator.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Homebrew Dad yeast starter calculator&lt;/a&gt; (which gives you more numbers than the Mr. Malty one does) promises a yeast growth factor of about 45 times for 10 billion cells pitched into 3 litres of 1.040 gravity wort for a stir plate starter. In other words, 10 billion cells will produce about 450 billion new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that stir plate starters can achieve high growth rates, and 10 billion cells in a 3 litre stir plate starter will have plenty of wort, oxygen and nutrients to work with, but still this seems a little too good to be true. However, I have no experience with stir plate starters yet, so I don't really know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is such a high growth rate (assuming that everything is optimal) actually possible, or is it indeed to good to be true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T21:43:16.137" Title="What is a realistic growth factor in large volume stir plate yeast starters?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|stir-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-02T20:25:04.750" Score="0" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a V2 of &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/23118/debugging-a-bitter-ddh-neipa&quot;&gt;this NEIPA I was trying to improve&lt;/a&gt; and it's currently sitting in the keg awaiting bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed on new equipment and I had less boil off than expected so I had maybe a .75-1gal more sparge than I needed. I also tried a tablet of Whirlfloc to help with my sediment issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of those things combined gave me a less hazy beer and has me worried about a watered down beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been carbonating at 30psi (room temp) for a week now and I'm ready to bottle. Should I even bother with trying to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that adding half a pound of maltodextrin can help bolster the body but I'm not sure when to add it or if it is even the right choice. Do I portion it out per bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15277" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T06:29:52.817" Title="Fixing a &quot;Watery&quot; beer" Tags="|bottling|kegging|late-addition|body|mouthfeel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23497" CreationDate="2018-10-03T03:34:18.003" Score="2" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my co2 closed transfer setup, I was expecting to be able to screw those 2 items together (male to female):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Stainless_Steel_Flared_Union_1_4_MFL_x_1_4_MFL_p/ss-1-4-m-mfl-x-1-4-m-mfl.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Stainless_Steel_Flared_Union_1_4_MFL_x_1_4_MFL_p/ss-1-4-m-mfl-x-1-4-m-mfl.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ss-swivel-nut-5-16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ss-swivel-nut-5-16&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the adapter (1/4 MFL to 1/4 MFL) is too big to fit the 1/4 FFL to barb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? Shouldn't 1/4 MFL fit properly 1/4 FFL? Do I miss something here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16121" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T04:52:12.203" Title="1/4 MFL to 1/4 MFL does not fit 1/4 FFL to barb. Why?" Tags="|kegging|closed-transfer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23496" CreationDate="2018-10-03T04:52:12.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fittings are properly called 45 degree SAE flare fittings, you could check their dimensions against the standard (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ryco.com.au/technical/thread-connector-identification/sae-threads/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ryco.com.au/technical/thread-connector-identification/sae-threads/&lt;/a&gt; ) to be sure about what you actually got sent. By rights, they should fit. If they don't, then at least one of them is not what you ordered. I'd measure them against the standard and then shoot Ontario Beer Kegs a message to get it sorted out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T04:52:12.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23495" CreationDate="2018-10-03T06:29:52.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbonation level has a significant influence on mouth-feel.  You could try carbonating it up a bit further, maybe to 2.8 or 3.0 volumes of CO2.  Obviously this isn't going to &quot;fix&quot; everything.  This is a simple thing to try and is relatively easy to un-do (in a keg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you could probably should just leave it as-is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T06:29:52.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23494" CreationDate="2018-10-03T21:43:16.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Is such a high growth rate (assuming that everything is optimal) actually possible[...]?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sure is. Yeast will pretty much grow indefinitely as long as there are no nutrient limitations or inhibitory levels of ethanol. The major limiting nutrients are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermentable sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nitrogen (amino acids, basically)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxygen (more accurately, the lipids synthesized in the presence of oxygen)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vitamins and other micronutrients.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a regular batch fermentation, the limiting factor will usually be sugar, but may also be oxygen (a 'stuck' fermentation). Nitrogen generally isn't limiting in all-malt worts, though it can be when high levels of adjuncts are used, or for very high gravity worts. Zinc is the only micronutrient limitation you'll likely encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a stirred starter, it will most likely be sugar (again) but &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be nitrogen, especially if you use simple sugars to fortify the starter wort, or, again, zinc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As reported in &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=QpDVsu-vaBcC&amp;amp;printsec=frontcover&amp;amp;dq=brewing%20yeast%20and%20fermentation&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjitcC5muvdAhXyY98KHbDYCMkQ6AEIKTAA#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=brewing%20yeast%20and%20fermentation&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewing Yeast and Fermentation&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Typically, brewing yeast growing on high-gravity (15-18°Plato) wort under continuously aerobic conditions [...] yield a terminal yeast count of 200-300 x 10&lt;sup&gt;6&lt;/sup&gt; cells ml&lt;sup&gt;-1&lt;/sup&gt;'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, given your situation, 450 x 10&lt;sup&gt;9&lt;/sup&gt; cells per 3 liters (or 3 x 10&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; ml.) leaves you with 150 x 10&lt;sup&gt;6&lt;/sup&gt; cells/ml., only as little as half as a typical number (as quoted). Of course, this is easily accounted for by the fact that you are using a 10°Plato wort, but by extrapolation you might expect to be able to get the same cell count from a wort as low as a 7.5°Plato.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if all you cared about were cell count, you could hypothetically push this pretty far, as the extent of overall yeast growth will generally be only limited by wort strength. However, as I mentioned above, alcohol levels become damaging to yeast at a certain point, so you generally don't want to go too high (even 18 Plato seems a bit high to me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, in essence, yes this is an entirely feasible level of growth, given the right conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T21:43:16.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23459" CreationDate="2018-10-04T05:39:42.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's two issues at play here, the first is carbonation, the second is colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer always tends to look a bit darker in the fermenter, simply because there's so much of it compared to a glass.  Even light coloured batches can seem overly-dark while still fermenting.  Obviously here it's quite dark in the glass too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't specify how you made this beer.  So speaking generally: Extra colour comes from maillard reactions during the boil.  If you boil for longer, this definitely occurs.  One common mistake for new extract brewers is to not correctly mix-up the malt added to water before boiling, so there's a big pool of malt on the bottom of the pot.  This can brown and scorch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is an all-grain batch - was the batch put through the mill before yours a dark beer?  Maybe it's a little extra dark malt getting into your grist by mistake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation problems can come from a range of minor issues, here's some of the more common ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you add enough priming sugar?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Were the bottles left long enough for the carbonation to occur?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Were the bottles warm enough while carbonating for the yeast to work? (&gt; 16C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you &lt;code&gt;bulk primed&lt;/code&gt;, was the sugar/dextrose/... evenly mixed through the beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you wait long enough for the yeast to work before opening?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was the cap on correctly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher gravity the beer, generally carbonation takes longer, because the yeast has a tough time with the extra ethanol.  If it's cold, the yeast works more slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any of these sound like what might have happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T05:39:42.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-04T12:15:42.110" Score="0" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was my first attempt. I followed a recipe for jam wine in CJJ Berry's book. Did exactly what he said. Temperature between 26°C-28°C on the heat strip. Used Lalvin K1-V1116. Start OG 1.090, final FG 1.040. ie 6.5% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added re-start yeast...no difference. What do I do now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16653" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-10-04T17:52:04.243" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T22:21:41.243" Title="Why have I got a low ABV wine problem" Tags="|first-time-brewer|primary-fermentation|stuck-fermentation|fruit-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23501" CreationDate="2018-10-04T22:21:41.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started out making a blackberry-Cabernet wine, adding if I remember 6 jars of jam to 3 gallons of water, x amount of sugar to a SG of 1.090 or about 12 % ABV. I used EC1118 yeast and low and behold I ended up with stuck fermentations every time, just about the same SG as you. If I recall correctly there is something in the jam (chemical) that interferes with the fermentation process.  I added yeast nutrient, warmed the wine and coaxed it to finish. It took a couple of weeks, never went totally dry, but blended with a Cab, it was pretty good.  Next time don’t use jam, buy an Alexander product of blackberry concentrate. Much more predictable and satisfying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T22:21:41.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17354" CreationDate="2018-10-06T01:28:49.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scientificamerican.com/podcast/episode/beer-fermentation-hops-along/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.scientificamerican.com/podcast/episode/beer-fermentation-hops-along/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enzymes originating from the non-heated hops added during dry-hopping may break down starches previously unbroken by the mash and boil, thereby creating an excess of yeast food. My recommendation is to bottle, using the dilute syrup method (NOT PUTTING SUGAR CUBES IN YOUR BOTTLES) at the lowest level recommended for your particular style. You're gonna have to do some maths and research, but it'll be worth it :) EXCELSIOR!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mosiac IPA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16657" LastActivityDate="2018-10-06T01:28:49.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-06T10:05:30.083" Score="1" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to re-start a stuck wine made from top quality strawberry jam. I've already added re-start yeast but no joy. Thanks in advance &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16653" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T23:03:44.267" Title="home made wine stuck at 6.5%" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23505" CreationDate="2018-10-07T05:24:58.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jam contains a chemical that interferes with the anaerobic respiration process of yeast. Next time, try avoiding using jam and switch to fruit concentrates without any preservatives. However, try adding some fermentable sugars to your batch to increase the alcohol content if the yeast is still active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16658" LastActivityDate="2018-10-07T05:24:58.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23596" CreationDate="2018-10-07T17:55:52.210" Score="4" ViewCount="2506" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do i need beer yeast for cultivating my own beer yeast? because i tried to brew beer with bread yeast and the result was not satisfying. Also, in my country as an islamic country it's not easy to find beer yeast. thanks for your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16662" LastActivityDate="2018-12-06T02:18:19.560" Title="how to cultivate the beer yeast?" Tags="|yeast|beer|cultivation|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23507" CreationDate="2018-10-07T22:52:54.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, first of all check your local legislation to make sure you're not in trouble with the law for making alcohol at home :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, yes, to make e.g. beer of the taste you might be familiar with (e.g. english ale or european lager) you need a cultured yeast. While liquid yeast should be most likely too difficult to find, you could order dry yeast via internet (again, subject to legal restrictions). Google for something like &quot;fermentis dry yeast&quot; or &quot;mangrove jacks dry yeast&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you definitely can't get your hands on real yeast.. well, if I had such an issue, I'd try to cultivate something. After all, yeast are ubiquitous and exist everywhere, you just need to capture and tame the right kind. One option might be from wild yeast from grapes/fruits. To avoid conditioning of yeast on fructose (brewing yeast should be able to eat maltose), I'd just wash freshly picked grapes/apples with boiled lukewarm water and then add that wash into sanitary malt extract. In a rural environment, you might try and put out plates with malt extract solution overnight, collect them next morning, then incubate and check what taste you get within a couple of weeks. 1 from 5 chance you get something suitable, so you need to keep trying. Google &quot;spontanous fermentation&quot; for more details. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2018-10-07T22:52:54.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-08T07:07:44.720" Score="3" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this is the third year I am making home made wine from a combination of red (75%) and white(25%). &#xA;In the past the person in which I purchased from had a big industrial blender of sorts and gave me back a product of appox 70%juice, 30% grounded up seeds, skin, etc. Which after mixing for appox 10 days, then separating liquid and making air tight and starting sugar to alcohol process for 90 days or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT this year he bought a new machine that was more like an industrial press, that gave me appox 95% juice only 5% seeds, skin, etc. Its going to make the separating process much easier for sure but I'm concerned that without the skin in there, maybe I will be losing on some of the yeast..??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thank you all in advance as I really depend on this, currently living in a country that does not allow alcohol , so I need my homemade:) &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fqqkJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16663" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T14:22:17.280" Title="Yeast or not to yeast, that is the question" Tags="|yeast|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23509" CreationDate="2018-10-08T13:54:30.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest you add good quality wine yeast so that you can ensure that your wine ferments properly. It is best to do so as lots of yeast is lost from the surface of the grapes. The yeast will ensure your wine will ferment completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16658" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T13:54:30.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-08T14:31:14.567" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a brown ale with an original gravity of 1.052 to 1.054 and a final gravity of 1.011 - 1.013. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right before I pitched the yield, I took an accurate reading with a hydrometer of 1.030. Obviously, that's lower than I hoped for. Here's my question. Thet recipe called for 1/2lb of US crystal malt and 4 oz of US chocolate malt to be steeped. I did this. However, it called for 2.75 lbs of light DME and 4 lb of light malt syrup. I only put 3.3lbs of the light malt syrup but I put in 3.3 lbs of the light DME. I didn't mean to do this on purpose really, it's just the amount of ingredients. I had at the time. Is that the recent for the low original gravity reading? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16667" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T16:46:04.287" Title="Low Original Gravity" Tags="|extract|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23512" CreationDate="2018-10-08T16:46:04.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have run into this same exact issue when i was starting to brew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LME has a bad habit of sitting on the bottom of your container specially if you add top off water. &#xA;And when you take a reading it show lower then expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/14895/why-is-my-o-g-less-then-what-i-calculated&quot;&gt;Why is my O.G. less then what I calculated?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per Denny Conn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Did you do a partial boil and add more water afterward? If so, the problem is likely to be inadequate mixing. The wort is heavier than water so when you take a reading you get essentially &quot;watered down&quot; wort. It's nearly impossible to get them mixed thoroughly to get an accurate reading. But if you use all the ingredients and end up with the volume the recipe specifies, you WILL hit the predicted OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer assumes, partial boil, and not the full recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T16:46:04.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23509" CreationDate="2018-10-08T19:35:17.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, you can make wine without yeast. Wine has been made for thousands of years that way since yeast is on the skins of every grape. It is the preferred method of those who want a more &quot;authentic&quot; product. Just crush the grapes and stand back. You can make very good wine this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, most people make wine these days from a commercial wine yeast you buy. The reason is that you can control when and how the grape juice ferments. Commercial yeasts ferment faster, more efficiently and easier to work with. I suggest you buy some yeast. You will need a lot of it from the pictures you are showing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, in the process of crushing the grapes the yeast is released into the grape juice and will do it's thing just like you did the previous years. No worries. Just do what you did before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T19:35:17.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23515" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23518" CreationDate="2018-10-08T21:59:28.787" Score="2" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading about making some Belgian Candi Sugar for a Piraat (Belgian Tripel) recipe I want to make and finding some inconsistencies about the techniques. &#xA;People talk about using citric acid and this is backed up in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inverted_sugar_syrup&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inverted_sugar_syrup&lt;/a&gt; article and says cream of tartar is fine as well. I found mention that if you want clear BCS then just drop table sugar in the boil kettle and that heat will do the conversion... BUT the lowest temperature I've seen listed for triggering the conversion is 240°F (115°C) which won't be achievable. Stove top cooked sugar can reach these high temps though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/the-how-to-for-making-belgian-candi-sugar.219960/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the-how-to-for-making-belgian-candi-sugar.219960&lt;/a&gt; which leads to a PDF published by Beer Brewing Radio which states using Diammonium Phosphate which when I search online is described as a fertiliser but also is used as a Yeast Nutrient. Reading about it as a fertiliser I can see that there's an increase in pH over time, but how does it compare with the acidic levels of Citric acid or cream of tartar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone say definitively which one I should use? I have cream of tartar in the pantry, but I'm not sure how much to use, the Beer Brewing Radio PDF says to use 1/2 tsp of DAP with 1 cup water and 2 lbs sugar, but how much cream of tartar of citric acid does that translate to? Is it worth just buy some Yeast Nutrient and follow this recipe to the letter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14219" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T04:47:17.447" Title="Belgian Candi Sugar - CONFUSED!" Tags="|sugar|belgian|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23509" CreationDate="2018-10-08T21:59:40.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making wine with wild yeast, certainly very possible, if fraught with uncertainties in my opinion.  How viable is the yeast, is it strong enough to complete a fermentation or will it die off before you reach a target SG?  Will that stain of unknown yeast with unknown origins result in a funky tasting wine.  These questions and their variable answers are why most vintners when working with fresh grapes usually choose to bath the grapes in a light K-Meta solution to kill off the wild yeast and then introduce a stable predictable yeast that will provide you with a good wine, fermented well and allowed to cleanup the undesirables left from fermentation.  So, can you make wine from wild yeast, sure can, just be aware of the issues before you jump in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T21:59:40.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-09T04:45:34.427" Score="1" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is CO2 the only type of gas you could use to carbonate the beer in your keg. (Okay know carbonate means to use CO2). Something like say Nitrogen or Helium or whatever. If so what would that taste like and or change the flavor of the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastEditorUserId="16485" LastEditDate="2018-10-09T09:08:33.020" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T19:30:50.123" Title="Kegging with something other than CO2" Tags="|beer|taste|force-carbonation|beer-tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-10-12T20:54:38.603" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23515" CreationDate="2018-10-09T04:47:17.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You wanna look at this guy: &lt;a href=&quot;https://suigenerisbrewing.blogspot.com/2013/09/making-belgian-candi-sugar.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://suigenerisbrewing.blogspot.com/2013/09/making-belgian-candi-sugar.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As he points out, most recipes only invert and then caramelise sugar, whereas Candi sugar relies on Maillard reactions, which require a higher pH. He uses picling lime, which I can't find here. I use a few drops of food grade NaOH instead. It works great, super rich dark fruit notes and all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T04:47:17.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23487" CreationDate="2018-10-09T16:00:03.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shape of an unused crown cap is such that if you crimp it over the bottle top, it seals it nicely. A crown cap that has been pried off of a bottle is bent and might not seal entirely when reused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13099" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T16:00:03.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23517" CreationDate="2018-10-09T16:00:55.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guinness is a popular example of a nitrogenated beer. Generally the nitrogen produces smaller bubbles and lends a creamier texture to the beer. Not sure on flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T16:00:55.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23517" CreationDate="2018-10-09T19:30:50.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the internet &quot;Aqueous carbon dioxide, CO2 (aq), reacts with water forming carbonic acid, H2CO3 (aq). Carbonic acid may loose protons to form bicarbonate, HCO3- , and carbonate, CO32-. In this case the proton is liberated to the water, decreasing pH. The complex chemical equilibria are described using two acid equilibrium equations.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've ever drunk flat carbonated water, you should know the acidic flavour that carbonation imparts to water. I assume it has some impact on the flavour of beer,  though presumably since beer already has noticeable flavour this difference is less pronounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T19:30:50.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-10T00:08:26.263" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently set up to use a modified &lt;a href=&quot;http://meadist.com/making-mead/mead-recipes/sparkling-oaked-acerglyn-maple-mead-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recipe for a sparkling oaked acerglyn&lt;/a&gt; with the following adjustments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reddit user Balathustrius's SNA schedule using Fermaid K, Fermaid O, and DAP&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additional honey added to the must prior to pitching&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bourbon soak to sanitize the oak spiral&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 gallon of apple cider added at some point during primary or secondary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin 71B yeast, which has an ABV tolerance of 14%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having analyzed the sugar content of the dark robust maple syrup, I found that the must would initially (based on step 2) have a relatively low specific gravity and might turn out somewhat dry. However, the recipe also calls for staggered addition of the maple syrup one week prior to racking. Would this second syrup installment be sufficient to somewhat back-sweeten the mead or would it trigger secondary fermentation and continue to be fermented into alcohol? I'm assuming since the maple syrup wouldn't appreciably change the volume of the must, the must is already approaching peak ABV and wouldn't change much despite the addition of sugar. However, I really, really want this recipe to be at least semi-sweet. Should I add more honey to the must initially or will the collective maple syrup / apple cider additions do the trick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, when it comes to adding the apple cider, should I do this before (i.e., at the same time as the second syrup installment) or after racking? I have heard that in racking and ditching the collection of lee at the base of the carboy, 90-95% of the original yeast population is being removed. I fear that adding apple cider will heavily dilute the alcohol in solution without fermenting much if done so after racking. I don't mind some dilution, but by adding a gallon of apple cider the ABV could dive from 14% to 11.6% which I would ideally like to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I would like to retain the sparkling aspect of this recipe. How long should I wait after the addition of the apple cider before pitching the corn sugar and bottling? Trying to avoid any bottle bombs if at all possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Considering the already diverse flavor profile, I don't want to smother the finer notes with cider. How much cider is too much for a five gallon batch? Could I carbonate it using the cider alone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16524" LastEditorUserId="16524" LastEditDate="2018-10-10T01:14:59.110" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T11:01:30.290" Title="Staggered sugar source addition: before or after racking?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|mead|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-10T02:59:28.013" Score="2" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a Belgian Dubbel in primary about two weeks, ending up with a gravity of 1.016. Then 3 days ago I racked onto 5.5 lbs of cherries, leaving the yeast cake behind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expected the residual yeast to cause additional fermentation and generate CO2, along with bubbling through airlock. I measured the gravity at 1.014, but that seems within the margin of error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first fruit beer: is this progressing as it should, or should I add more yeast to advance fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16077" LastEditorUserId="16077" LastEditDate="2018-10-10T03:16:50.307" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T05:16:43.690" Title="Should fruit in secondary produce CO2?" Tags="|beer|secondary-fermentation|fruit|belgian|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1131" CreationDate="2018-10-10T03:30:40.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I froze pitted cherries in Ziploc bags until I was ready to use them. Then I thawed them, and heated water to ~190 degrees and immersed them for 20 minutes. Over 185 degrees to sanitize the cherries, but under 195 to avoid melting the Ziploc bags. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I cooled them, I racked onto the cherries in a paint strainer mesh bag. Still in secondary so no results yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16077" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T03:30:40.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23524" CreationDate="2018-10-10T05:16:43.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fruit very likely has sugar, so it will cause fermentation to kick-off again when  added, thus producing CO2.  Obviously not with the same vigour as primary fermentation - although if you added &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of fruit, maybe.  Is the yeast able to get into the fruit?  The skins are fairly tough for yeast, so will need to be broken somewhat.  I typically mush my fruit a little with a potato masher (or slice - depends on the type of fruit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be too concerned about the airlock not bubbling - this is mostly an indication that it's not perfectly sealed somehow.  Or maybe it's going slowly, and you've not witnessed the odd bubble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing I would like to add - when I've added fruit to beers, sometimes it doesn't taste so good until it's been conditioning for a while.  For example: A friend made a raspberry stout, and it was OK after a month or so, but after 3 months it was very nice indeed.  So if at first the flavour is not pleasing, just wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cherry dubbel sounds like a good mix BTW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T05:16:43.690" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-10T06:00:22.677" Score="0" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;So Ive been hearing alot about this home recipe ppl are making called apple pie. Which just from the name grabbed my attintion. So a buddy gave me some and it was supposed to be high proof stuff which was the 2nd reason it grabbed my attintion. Well i drank the whole damn bottle and didnt even get a buzz of it. It had good taste and a lil bit of a burn but nothing much. So last year for new years i made.a batch.of my own and damn that was some awsome stuff. So my guestion is this or somewhere in this next paragraph..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i was to take 1 gallon of apple juice and 1 gallon of apple cider sugar brown sugar some cinn styx and 2 bottles 1/5 of course of grain alcohol wich is 190proof  or 90% abv each and a bottle 1/5 of cpt morgan spiced rum what would be the total proof of my apple pie?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16671" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T16:00:09.940" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T16:00:09.940" Title="Home made apple pie using everclear (dilution of spirits)" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-10-12T20:55:09.397" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23531" CreationDate="2018-10-10T10:19:28.087" Score="1" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading about bottling home brew with jelly beans, Can I just buy the jelly beans at the grocery store or do I have to order them special for brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16672" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T18:32:40.103" Title="Bottling With Jelly Bean Question" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23530" CreationDate="2018-10-10T15:14:47.100" Score="1" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making ginger beer. I’m using basically raw ginger and honey and fermenting with bakers yeast. I’m getting somewhere between 2% &amp;amp; 2.3% ABV in testing. I don’t want any alcohol in the ginger beer as I want my kids to drink it. As I see it I have two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pasteurize&lt;/strong&gt; : After fermentation then pasteurize to remove alcohol. But there will still be alcohol present and it’s not as effective as one thinks I believe, so have no idea how to test for sure. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don’t Ferment&lt;/strong&gt;: Make Cordial, Keg and force carbonize.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;: If I follow option 2 won’t my ginger beer taste different? Doesn’t the fermentation step add the flavor by the yeast producing byproducts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T22:11:27.430" Title="To ferment or not to ferment for no alcohol" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|ginger-beer|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23529" CreationDate="2018-10-10T18:22:46.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will the ginger beer taste different if you don't ferment? Yes. but mostly because you will have a sweeter product because the yeast didn't consume the sugar you put into it. You may want to adjust your sugar levels down a bit, or you may not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be some minor taste differences because of the lack of yeast by-products but with a 2.3% ABV ginger beer, not much is going on in this regard, especially if you use a yeast with a clean profile. Some yeast strains do add spiciness or fruity character, but I'm assuming you're avoiding those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other benefit of no fermentation, is that the ginger beer should taste more gingery. This is because fermentation blows off a bit of the aromatics, and you want to keep those in to improve the taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16601" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T18:22:46.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23528" CreationDate="2018-10-10T18:32:40.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grocery store. I've never seen any special homebrew jelly beans, and I've been at this for a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you add beans you're adding sugar (or possibly high fructose corn syrup), gelatin, fake coloring and fake flavoring to your beer. Just to make life more interesting, there are no standards for jelly bean size or sugar content, so I'm assuming it's pretty easy to under or over-carb your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could just use carbonation drops, which are way more predictable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16601" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T18:32:40.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23529" CreationDate="2018-10-11T22:06:05.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do not want &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; alcohol - Do not ferment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it, no way around it.  There's no home-kitchen method of removing &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the alcohol.  Sure you could boil off a lot of it, but not all of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pasteurisation does not remove &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the alcohol, it will remove some of it, but as you get less and less alcohol in the solution you need to raise the temperature - it's not a trivial operation, &quot;heat to X-degrees &amp;amp; wait&quot; wont do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Humans (probably all mammals) have a complex relationship with ethanol.  Our senses are honed to search it out (probably because it becomes present in ripe fruits).  So ginger beer without alcohol, even with the same sweetness will taste different.   You could add some yeasty flavours by dissolving some yeast extract spread (e.g.: marmite, vegemite), but now I've typed that, I must admit: it sounds nasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So - what to do...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a cordial, carbonate it.  Experiment.  Make the best tasting ginger cordial you can.  Get your kids involved, ask them to judge, do a tasting panel.  Play with the amount of lemon juice &amp;amp; sugar.  Use different sugars: raw, molasses, palm-sugar, coconut-sugar, try with lime juice, add other spices.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, when I was a kid, we just fermented it with whatever yeast came off the sultana/raisin skins we made the starter / &quot;ginger bug&quot; with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-10-11T22:11:27.430" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T22:11:27.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23505" CreationDate="2018-10-11T23:03:44.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stuck fermentation is normally caused by lack of nutrient availability at the beginning of fermentation or lack of oxygen, according to Charlie Papazians Complete Joy of Homebrewing. He suggests getting yeast hulls and pitching 1/4-1/2 oz for 5 gallons along with additional yeast to get things going again. If you do decide to follow through on this suggestion let me know how it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tony&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16677" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T23:03:44.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-12T01:13:23.587" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a basil-raspberry sour with WLP648 as yeast. Unfortunately I need to go on a work trip for the next 2-3 weeks and the beer has not fully attenuated fully. I was wondering if it hurts to let the beer sit on the yeast cake for another 2-3 weeks before I rack it to secondary with the fruit, or if the yeast would start falling out and settling on the bottom (meaning not enough yeast will be moved to secondary to work on the fruits).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T21:42:16.530" Title="Brewing a fruit beer with WLP648: keeping it on primary for an extra three weeks before adding fruit" Tags="|fermentation|fruit|sour|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23534" CreationDate="2018-10-12T03:03:50.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be ok to rack onto fruit once you return. If you're worried about not having enough yeast, you could rouse the beer a bit before racking, or add more yeast along with the fruit. If you keep the beer at primary temp though, I wouldn't be concerned about lack of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T03:03:50.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23527" CreationDate="2018-10-12T20:51:37.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a real-world question about dilution of alcohol, so it seems fair to ask it in Hombrewing.  There are countries where home distilling is 100% legal (e.g. NZ), and dilution is a common exercise for the home brewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a simple formula for dilution of alcohol with water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To dilute an &lt;code&gt;start_volume&lt;/code&gt; of &lt;code&gt;start_percent&lt;/code&gt; AbV alcohol beverage to a &lt;code&gt;new_percent&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Water_to_add = start_volume × (( start_percent ÷ new_percent ) - 1)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homedistiller.org/calcs/dilute&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://homedistiller.org/calcs/dilute&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say I wish to dilute 3 litres of 90% AbV spirits down to 40% AbV ~&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Water_to_add = 3 × ( ( 90 ÷ 40 ) - 1 )&#xA;Water_to_add = 3 × ( 2.25 - 1 )&#xA;Water_to_add = 3 × 1.25&#xA;             = 3.37 litres&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have to make some assumptions about your question, because you don't specify the size of a &quot;bottle&quot;, and I don't understand what &quot;1/5 cpt&quot; means.  As a commenter pointed out we don't know the AbV of the &quot;Spiced Rum&quot; either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let the ingredients be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 bottles of 90% AbV (vodka) at 0.75 litres each (about 0.2 gal)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(So that's 1.5 litres of vodka)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 bottle of 36% AbV rum at 0.75 litres (about 0.1 gal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.8 litres of juice (about 1 gal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whatever spices, they are too small in volume to be significant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To work this out, convert the 90% vodka down to 36%.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; Juice = 1.5 × ( ( 90 ÷ 36 ) - 1 )&#xA;       = 2.25 litres. (Leaving 1.55 litres of juice to mix)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now we have 3.75 litres of vodka-juice and 0.75 litres of rum (=4.5) both at 36%, and 1.55 litres of juice to dilute it. This is the same formula as above, except now we already know the amount to dilute with, but do not know the &quot;desired&quot; AbV.  So let's use the symbol &lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt; to denote &quot;resultant AbV&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1.55  = 4.5 × ( ( 36 ÷  ) - 1 )&#xA;0.344 = ( 36 ÷  ) - 1&#xA;1.344 = 36 ÷ &#xA;     = 36 ÷ 1.344&#xA;      = 26.78 % AbV&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to work this out is to simply calculate the amount of alcohol in each ingredient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1.50 litres of vodka at 90% =&amp;gt; 1.35 litres of alcohol + 0.15 other&#xA;0.75 litres of rum at 36%   =&amp;gt; 0.27 litres of alcohol + 0.48 other&#xA;3.8  litres of juice at 0%  =&amp;gt; 0.00 litres of alcohol + 3.8  other&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sums to 1.62 litres of alcohol and 4.43 litres of juice/water, giving a final combination of 1.62 litres in 6.05 litres&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1.62 ÷ 6.05 = 26.78&#xA;            =&amp;gt; 27% alcohol by volume&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I used USA Imperial volumetric conversions, not UK the version, since the USA is the only country still using these measurements AFAIK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-10-13T05:48:27.963" LastActivityDate="2018-10-13T05:48:27.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23507" CreationDate="2018-10-12T23:44:03.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hugely significant component of beer flavour is from the yeast.  It's important.  But ... are you sure the undesirable flavours you encountered were from the yeast you used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really should use brewing yeast.  Obviously you can buy yeast, or possibly grow up a small amount from a bottle of beer that has not been pasteurised.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a long time bread yeast and brewing yeast were the same thing。It was not until 1883 when Emil Hansen isolated a single strain of yeast that the concept of &quot;pure yeast brewing&quot; came into beer production. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you cannot get beer yeast at all, using a bread making yeast would be the next best alternative.  Most wild-captured yeasts perform much like a saison-type yeast, and have relatively  low alcohol tolerance.  Also it's difficult to remove other things from your microbial culture, like bacteria - which may add a sour note to your beer flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast produces the bulk of the flavour during the initial growth phase.  So you can increase the flavour by using less yeast, or decrease the flavour by pitching more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus If you cannot get brewing yeast at all, I recommend you get a good quality bread yeast.  Make a few batches with differing amounts, maybe starting around 0.6 grams per litre (i.e. 12g for 20 litres).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a great book called &quot;Yeast&quot; by Chris White &amp;amp; Jamil Zainasheff.  It can tell you all you need to know about growing yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to this, it's very important to ensure all aspects of your brewing process are sanitary and your fermentation process is best-practice.  It may be worth reading of a few brewing sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-12-05T21:52:55.380" LastActivityDate="2018-12-05T21:52:55.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23540" CreationDate="2018-10-13T17:42:29.220" Score="2" ViewCount="2706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make alcohol from baking yeast I didn't use any special tools or airlock I got the normal baking yeast, sugar(sucrose) and water Dissolved sugar in water putting the yeast in the container and put a baloon on top to monitor CO2 output Even after minutes I have CO2 coming out means I have alcohol. This is my first try and already 3 days have passed so I dont know what to do next I want to get the alcohol oyt of there by distillation but I am not sure If I should distill it without doing anything special. The container smells like it has alcohol in it but it is cloudy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16679" LastEditorUserId="16679" LastEditDate="2018-10-13T17:59:20.570" LastActivityDate="2021-11-24T07:33:13.390" Title="Making alcohol at home from sugar and baking yeast" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23539" CreationDate="2018-10-13T21:27:37.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally it's best to check the progress of your fermentation with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydrometer&lt;/a&gt;.  This allows you to determine when fermentation is complete, and by knowing the starting and ending measurements, it's possible to make a reasonably accurate estimation of alcohol content.  You can use the formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Alcohol by Volume = (1.05/0.79) x ((OG – TG) / TG)  x 100&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where &lt;code&gt;OG&lt;/code&gt; is the Original Gravity measurement - taken before fermentation begins, and &lt;code&gt;FG&lt;/code&gt; Final Gravity, is the current reading.  If your mix is alcohol &amp;amp; water, you can also use an Alcoholmeter, which is a type of hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to taste your &lt;em&gt;wash&lt;/em&gt;, and roughly judge how much sugar is left.  If it's still sweet at all, the ferment is not finished.  That's not to say the yeast has not given up though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so you're 3 days in.  It's impossible to say accurately, but primary fermentation generally lasts 3-7 days (in beer brewing).  But you're fermenting plain sugar which does not have any nutrients for the yeast, so we can expect a sub-optimal fermentation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's obviously nothing to stop you distilling this right now, it's probably got some alcohol in it.  But if you wish to somewhat optimise the yield, it may be better to wait 7 days, or even two weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cloud in the &lt;em&gt;wash&lt;/em&gt; will clear as the yeast settles out.  But from what I can research, it seems a common practice to distill a wash made from pure sugar while it's cloudy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-10-13T21:27:37.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-14T00:08:41.377" Score="1" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; Aside from confirming fermentation is complete via consistent hydrometer readings, is there another way to check that the beer is ready for bottling, particularly in higher abv beers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I have recently brewed my first Imperial Stout, which is expected to be between 10-11%. My fermentation is nearly complete, however I have seen several people claim to leave there higher abv bevs in the fermenter for 4-12 weeks.This is ostensibly to 'clean up unwanted flavour compounds', although I haven't found this kind of advice from the pros and am not sure what I'm looking /waiting for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16415" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T20:23:31.407" Title="When to bottle high ABV beer?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|stout|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23541" CreationDate="2018-10-14T00:31:00.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similarly to aging wine in a carboy vs aging in the bottle.  In my opinion once fermentation is complete and yeast has had a normal time to “clean up”, you can choose to age your beer in bottles while it conditions, creating your CO2 for carbonation, or you can age in a bulk vessel.  If you wish the latter, I would rack the beer into a clean secondary for aging, sitting a long time on the trub is something I don’t adhere to in my brewing. &#xA;I have made so much wine and needed to rack often, the process of racking beer once into a secondary has never been an issue to me as far as quality is concerned. Others may feel differently, YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-10-14T00:31:00.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-14T08:08:48.933" Score="1" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have applied a method seen on youtube where the keg was laid down and rocked by foot rolling it back and forth for about 5 minutes. Trouble is I did not get much bubbles after about letting it settle for 1.5 hours. I used &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kegoutlet.com/keg-carbonation-chart.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this graph&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;carb PSI was 26 for 60F temperature currently in my cellar&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;after the rocking lowered the PSI to about 7 for serving and let it settle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can I try to get it carbonated ? This is a commercial 50 liter keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16560" LastActivityDate="2018-10-14T12:05:05.290" Title="cider keg carbonation problem" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18477" CreationDate="2018-10-14T11:28:53.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When i see my brew has stopped bubbling I remove some water from the airlock and it starts bubbling again. Not aggressive as before so figure the activity has slowed down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16672" LastActivityDate="2018-10-14T11:28:53.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23543" CreationDate="2018-10-14T12:05:05.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I carbonate all my beers and cider, first get your cider cold, really cold. CO2 will get in solution more quickly when your target is cold.  Your 60F temp hindered your process.  I set my frig at 36F for usually 24 hours. If you put a fairly high level 30 psi of CO2 and do the “shake and roll” method, you usually can get your beer/cider carbed pretty quickly.  Here’s an article comparing Burst vs Forced carbonation.  Refer to this, as its kind of waste of time for me to retype it all here.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://brucrafter.com/what-is-burst-carbonation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://brucrafter.com/what-is-burst-carbonation/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastActivityDate="2018-10-14T12:05:05.290" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23507" CreationDate="2018-10-14T15:29:30.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make decent beer using bread yeast, and certainly stuff that you'll enjoy drinking.  You might have a problem trying to match a particular style of beer with bread yeast, but you can &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.libsyn.com/media/basicbrewing/bbv09-28-07breadyeast.mp4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;easily make beer&lt;/a&gt;, wine and mead with bread yeast because bread, ale, and lager yeast are all &lt;em&gt;Saccharomyces cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt;.  They all eat the same kind of sugars, &lt;a href=&quot;https://blogs.scientificamerican.com/guest-blog/enzymes-the-little-molecules-that-bake-bread/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;including maltose&lt;/a&gt;.  Their differences are are more subtle in how they react to their environment (&lt;em&gt;e.g.&lt;/em&gt;, temperature, pH), what byproducts they produce, and how well they flocculate.  You'll have a hard time making a classic German hefeweizen with bread yeast because you won't be able to produce its distinctive banana and clove taste, but you can make a tasty wheat beer, or you'd have trouble making a crisp and clear lager because bread yeast (in my experience) doesn't flocculate as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of a science fair project with my son, we went the other way and made bread using different kinds of yeasts.  We used bread, ale, lager, two different wine yeasts, and a strain of &lt;em&gt;Brettanomyces bruxellensis&lt;/em&gt;.  We made a basic white loaf out of all of them and gave out samples for taste tests.  They all made decent bread, but (I think) the lager and the brett did just as well as the bread yeast.  Personally, my least preferred was the wine/champagne yeast EC-1118; there wasn't much yeasty flavor and it was pretty bland (though others picked it as their preferred).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastEditorUserId="12926" LastEditDate="2018-10-16T14:00:56.940" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T14:00:56.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23523" CreationDate="2018-10-15T10:03:20.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You better believe that an addition to volume will indeed start another (continue) ferment. I've done this deliberately for one reason or another. It won't be a strong ferment but it will eat those sugars and any more you add.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to do this is to plan accordingly at the start and know how much honey/sugar to start with and how much will be left after the yeast hits it's tolerance level. Staggered sugar additions of any sort will selectively have the yeast breed beyond the normal tolerance levels. I have attained 24-28% ABV from EC-1118 by adding sugars like this. I think you should add all the ingredients and play by taste from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always use your hydrometer from start to finish to remove any doubts about what is going on with your sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes I believe you can achieve carbonation from the cider alone but need to find out how much first so you don't blow the bottles cork/cap into your ceiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13275" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T10:03:20.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23739" CreationDate="2018-10-15T12:14:52.547" Score="2" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;in my country it's illegal to buy or sell alcoholic drinks.&#xA;so I started trying to make them at home.&#xA;I make vodka by distillation and it tastes good as any other vodka.&#xA;A few days ago I bought &lt;strong&gt;non alcoholic beer&lt;/strong&gt; from store and it was &lt;strong&gt;sugar-free&lt;/strong&gt; type (&lt;em&gt;which people who don't want get fat use&lt;/em&gt;), I added some vodka to my &lt;strong&gt;non alcoholic beer&lt;/strong&gt; (by simple calculation it should contain 9% alcohol).&#xA;today I opened a bottle and tasted it, it was &lt;strong&gt;TOO SWEET&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone, tell me how to get rid of this sweetness, and why is that? It taste like candy!&#xA;If anybody knows why this sweetness happens too it will help me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you so much for your answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16682" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T13:50:28.233" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T11:17:03.747" Title="My vodka added beer became sweet!" Tags="|beer|sweetness|vodka|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2018-10-15T17:15:16.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increased alcohol might contribute to the perception of sweetness.  See the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5917/at-what-alcohol-level-does-alcohol-start-to-contribute-sweetness&quot;&gt;At what alcohol level does alcohol start to contribute sweetness?&lt;/a&gt;.  Because people report different experiences with this, I tend to agree with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25257701&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this study that associated differing perceptions of the taste of alcohol with certain genetic variations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're mixing vodka with beer one drink at a time, like a cocktail, I'd suggest adding something bitter to offset the sweetness.  To keep the flavor beer-like, you could even infuse the vodka with hops before mixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you doing your own fermentation before distilling your vodka?  If so, you're only a small change in ingredients away from just making your own beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6057" LastEditorUserId="6057" LastEditDate="2018-10-16T16:14:32.730" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T16:14:32.730" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23534" CreationDate="2018-10-15T21:42:16.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will be fine, WLP648 is such a slow fermenter that many people leave their beer on the yeast for extended periods of time. I am of the opinion that on a homebrewing scale, you can leave your beer on the yeast cake for months. The bretts in WLP648 are typically not very good flocculators, meaning that they wont drop out of suspension for a while. Anecdotally, I can tell you that I have never had problems with yeast counts even when transferring to secondary with fruit after months in primary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T21:42:16.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23322" CreationDate="2018-10-15T22:00:26.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is certainly a lot of anxiety (and misconception) about separating &quot;wild&quot; beer from &quot;clean&quot; in terms of fermentors, location and cleaning regime. As far as I can tell, the majority of this anxiety is rooted in the traditional wine making processes, where barrels would get infected with brettanomyces or resilient bacteria, necessitating replacement of those wooden barrels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, in terms of beer production -be it at home or in a professional environment- the main concern is mixing a small cell count of a fairly resilient, highly attenuative yeast or a bacterium into your beer. These small cell counts can come from poorly sanitized fermenters, from bottling equipment, from o-rings or any number of other places. After the primary fermentation of your wort with a regular beer yeast is done, these yeasts or bacteria will continue fermenting for extended times and thus lead to bottle bombs, sours or accidental brett beers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your cleaning regime is able to kill all yeast and bacteria in your fermentor, in your bottling equipment and in your bottles, I don't see an issue with brewing clean beer following a wild batch. I have successfully used my plastic fermentors to produce classic styles with a high amount of residual sugar immediately following batches of sours by using high quality caustic cleaners, followed by alkaline cleaners followed by disinfecting agents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13715" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T22:00:26.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23322" CreationDate="2018-10-16T12:05:43.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast wild or tame die just as easily in cleaning chemicals as most bacteria, they are not special super organisms, oxidation and reduction destroy their cell membranes just like any other cell. Including ours so always follow instructions when using chemicals and wear hand and eye protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the material your FV is made from if your sanitation and cleaning are sufficient to prevent contamination normally then you should be absolutely fine. One added precaution I would take is to ensure all pipes and fittings are dismantled and placed for 15min in water at or above 90C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your fittings and flexible tubing are sterilised, and you wash down your FV, then sterilise with bleach or caustic, then rinse, then use a no-rinse sanitiser you will have no problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If cross contamination occurs, first re-examine your sanitation processes, then inspect your FV, fittings, seals, and tubes and potentially replace the old if scratched or pitted, as if Brett or Pedio can survive from one brew to the next so can lacto and Acetabacter and it is only a matter of time before you have spoiled beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I speak from experience, I had issues in the past and my sanitation was not good enough, I changed my process since that time I have had no issues, we are talking over 4 years now Wild and clean fermentations on the same kit, no cross contamination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Caustic, Phosphoric and Peracetic Acid to clean all my vessels, be they stainless, glass or plastic. If you do not have access to these then Caustic, Bleach, a water rinse, StarSan works very well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use bleach on stainless unless it is 316L or it will damage it. &#xA;Strong caustic with prolonged contact time or heat will etch glass.&#xA;Never use above a 3% solution.&#xA;Always add chemicals to water not water to chemicals when diluting. &#xA;Always wear goggles and gloves when handling chemicals, and long sleeves and long trousers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T12:05:43.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-16T15:50:35.940" Score="2" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to grow brewers yeast that I want to as use as supplement, get various nutrients and NAD+. Which brewers yeast strain is easiest and best to to grow for this purpose? What medium and supplements for yeast I may need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16689" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T10:25:29.503" Title="Growing edible brewers yeast?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-17T14:06:30.517" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that if I filter my beer I will have a clear, sediment-free flat beer which will not carbonate with bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I reintroduce a tiny amount of the sediment back into the bottles, will I get a carbonated brew with minimal cloudiness/sediment, or will it take so much re-growth of yeast to achieve carbonation that I will have the same clarity problem as before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16695" LastEditorUserId="16695" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T14:13:56.860" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T18:02:25.393" Title="If I filter beer, then slightly reintroduce sediment, will I still get lots of sediment in bottle conditioning?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|filtering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23554" CreationDate="2018-10-17T14:45:08.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll get some sediment for sure.  To just about completely prevent sediment you'd have to force carb your beer (kegging).  Sort of a way to experience it is if you buy a commercial beer that is 'bottle conditioned', you'll notice a little but of trub on the bottom of the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you let the bottles condition, then leave them in the fridge for a week or so, the sediment should all settle out to a little cake on the bottom and be clear.  The the challenge is pouring it out w/o disturbing the cake.  The technique is called a shoulder pour where you 'trap' what little sediment is disturbed on on the edge of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or.. just keg and bottle from the the keg :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16388" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T14:45:08.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23554" CreationDate="2018-10-17T14:48:27.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You obviously understand that you’ll be stripping the yeast out of your beer with filtering.  That will need to be replaced in order to bottle condition your beer.  How much should you put back in is a guesstimate in my opinion.  If you reintroduce the sediment to your beer, you are back where you started, clear beer now made temporarily cloudy with yeast and the conditioning process.  It will settle at the bottom of the bottle and depending on how you pour, you may get clear beer or not if the yeast gets stirred back into the beer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you want to clear your beer with filtering, fine, force carb your clear beer and use a beer gun to fill your bottles with clear nicely carbed beer.  Or let your beer clear with a fining agent, gelatin for example, rack your clear beer off to another vessel and prime with 5oz of corn sugar for 5 gallons of beer, bottle and wait for the magic.  Either way bottle conditioned beer will always have a sediment issue to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastEditorUserId="16399" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T17:34:41.323" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T17:34:41.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-18T04:07:44.520" Score="1" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just wanted to ask if someone had similar experience. I brewed a white stout, force carbonated and was ready to bottle it using beer gun, not a fancy one just one from eBay. During the bottling process, the beer was foaming crazy. Yes, I had 3 meters beer line and my keg was ice cold, I sanitize the bottles and cool them down. Anyway, I could bottle the whole keg but most of the bottles were half filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is if there is any chance to enjoy the beer and will it hold at least little of CO2, lets say for few months. Or is it going to be a waste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did anyone had similar experience? What to expect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15270" LastEditorUserId="13754" LastEditDate="2018-10-21T15:55:24.467" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T15:55:24.467" Title="are partially filled bottles ok?" Tags="|bottling|force-carbonation|foam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23557" CreationDate="2018-10-18T19:09:10.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So few things going on here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Over carbonation&lt;/strong&gt; : It sounds like you over carbonated your porter in the keg. Porters are at the low end of the carbonation spectrum usually about 1.5 - 2.0 volumes. That excessive foam you got I doubt was from temperature differences. More likely the carbonation level. If you did a white (milk?) porter it would have been very sensitive to carbonation level. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Residual Carbonation&lt;/strong&gt; : if the liquid foams heavily before settling it means much of the gas is expelled in that process. I can’t tell from your post if you left the bottles half full or gradually filled. Either way the excessive foaming will result in the liquid holding onto less gas. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottle Volume:&lt;/strong&gt; Recall from (1) that a porter needs a bottling volume of gas of about 1.5-2.0. But that the mix of that gas was expelled during bottling. This means that what ever is left in the liquid is all that there is to pressurize with. Meaning much of the liquids gas will be lost to the bottle until it equalizes. This &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; result in an under carbonated beer. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you left your bottles half full and capped like that, I’m 99% sure they will be heavily under-carbonated. Too much will be lost to the bottle. However;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you did fill the bottle before capping you stand about a 65% chance of the carbonation still being &lt;strong&gt;okay&lt;/strong&gt; (not great) Why? Because you made a &lt;em&gt;porter&lt;/em&gt; which is by its type low in the fizzy spectrum. (So maybe your choice of beer saved you.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T19:09:10.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22102" CreationDate="2018-10-18T19:33:43.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Red star Home Brew Stuff 9804 Distillers Yeast (DADY) Ive been using this the last few brews . shorter fermentation time was my concern .It will freak you out when the beer is done in a couple of days rather then a week or so . That was the biggest thing to get over . It has a citrus taste and works quite fast . Ive been using liquid malt(cbw golden light ) and ginger for a summery taste . So its all good 4 to 4.5 alcohol is about right .     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16697" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T19:33:43.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23573" CreationDate="2018-10-18T19:39:36.670" Score="1" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine just set a Morgans Golden Saaz Pilsner with kit yeast and 1kg DME + 1kg sugar. He is fermenting at ~23°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kit requests for 1 kg of sugar but my firend accidentally put much more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the effect of this extra sugar. Will it spoil the taste of the kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2403" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T10:16:25.200" Title="Effects of extra sugar in kit beer" Tags="|sugar|kits|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18801" CreationDate="2018-10-18T19:57:21.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No . half a teaspoon in 12 ounces has never changed anything for me . The sweetness you are looking for in beer comes from the malt . A very sweat beer are not fermented all the way .Now one teaspoon of a heavy molasses sweetener like brown sugar or unprocessed sugar, honey would change it . But exploding caps is a problem .   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16697" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T19:57:21.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23561" CreationDate="2018-10-18T20:18:37.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll try to keep this simple and not get into the chemistry of it all, more sugar means more food for the yeast equals more alcohol in the final beer. Yes changing the alcohol content of a beer does change the overall taste. Usually it will smooth out the finish. But more important than the quantity of alcohol, the type of sugar used in the creation of the alcohol determines the type of alcohol and affects the flavor even more that just changing the quantity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example the alcohol created by adding more DME (also a sugar) will taste different in the final beer than the alcohol created by adding more sugar (I'm assuming you added either cane or beet sugar). Sometimes with added &quot;table&quot; sugar it can make your beer taste more like apple cider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finish it and give it a taste. That is the only real way to know for sure. If it is undrinkable at least you will have something to feed to your garden. I've had a few of those myself. Good luck and cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13721" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T20:18:37.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23541" CreationDate="2018-10-18T20:23:31.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to off-flavors, the best guide is your mouth &amp;amp; nose.  Taste &amp;amp; smell it.  Maybe let it warm a bit to see what's revealed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T20:23:31.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23561" CreationDate="2018-10-18T20:26:34.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because alcohol tastes sweet, the extra alcohol will affect the flavor of the beer.  The balance of hop bitterness and sweetness will be affected.   The beer might also seem drier.  Simple sugar ferments our pretty well, so expect a thinner bodied beer as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you like the resulting beer, none of the above matters much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T20:26:34.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-18T20:45:05.550" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve bottled and pasteurised some apple juice and it’s a bit “tart” this year. What should I use to sweeten it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips for avoiding this again next year while&#xA;I’m bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16698" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T11:02:50.553" Title="How to sweeten my pasteurised apple juice?" Tags="|sweetness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23571" CreationDate="2018-10-19T01:59:42.580" Score="1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed a 1.100 SG stout, fermentation has been steady but slowed noticeably about 24-36 hours in. Wondering if aerating again 2.5 days in could help, or is that too late? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5.25 gallon batch, 3 rehydrated packs of US 05 pitched initially after 30 minutes of aeration via aquarium pump and stone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13348" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T10:09:40.113" Title="Can I still oxygenate 2.5 days in?" Tags="|fermentation|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23568" CreationDate="2018-10-19T05:43:17.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's pasteurised, sweeten it with whatever you like. If you're worried you're going to introduce more yeast with the sweetener, just pasteurise it again afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T05:43:17.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23569" CreationDate="2018-10-19T10:09:40.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late oxygenation is never a good idea. Firstly it should not be necessary, and if your fermentation stalls that is indicative of a problem that aeration won't solve.  Secondly, high levels of oxygen and low levels of fermentable sugars may push your yeast into switching from fermentation to respiration, which produces acetic acid (vinegar). Thirdly, oxydation reactions will almost certainly cause off-flavours which can't be corrected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a more regular approach to try and restart a stuck fermentation, such as the one outlined &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.eckraus.com/stuck-beer-fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Post-pitching oxygenation should be considered only as a desperate last-ditch alternative to throwing the batch out (i.e. if throwing it away is your only other option you may as well go for broke and try it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T10:09:40.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23568" CreationDate="2018-10-19T10:10:50.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For sweetening apple juice, fructose would seem the sugar of choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T10:10:50.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23561" CreationDate="2018-10-19T10:16:25.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;More sugar means more alcohol. One kg of DME and 1kg of sugar added to a Morgan's kit should push your ABV up into the 5.something percent range which is a bit oomphy for a Pilsener but still acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However,  more refined sugar (corn sugar, table sugar, etc.) also means that the yeast might become stressed (especially due to high levels of table sugar, i.e. sucrose) and may produce off-flavours, most noticeably green-tasting acetaldehyde (green apples flavors, freshly stripped tree bark aroma's).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that if the yeast has to deal with high levels of refined sugars, it may loose its ability to ferment malt sugars, which may lead to a stuck fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, once the beer is in the fermenter it's a bit late to take ingredients out of it, so I suggest you let it ferment, bottle, and see what comes out of it. You'll probably be fine. Slight off flavors can usually be removed by more bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T10:16:25.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23553" CreationDate="2018-10-19T10:25:29.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much 99+% of all yeast used in food and health products (from Marmite to yeast pills) is Saccharomyces Cerevisiae (i.e. beer yeast or bread yeast). A small part is S. Pastorianus (mostly used in industrial lager brewing). Wine and distilling yeast (S. Bayanus) is rare in the food and health market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best growth medium for beer yeast is a well-formulated, well-oxygenated wort. Brewers do this all the time when they make yeast starters. Make a starter wort from malt extract, add a good quality yeast nutrient (ideally one rich in zink and FAN) and continuously oxygenate the word for the first half of the fermentation (no shorter, no longer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let the wort ferment out completely and let the yeast settle before  harvesting the yeast, because this will promote the build-up of nutrient reserves within the yeast cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zamil Zainasheff's &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0937381969&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;book on yeast&lt;/a&gt; is recommended reading for any aspiring yeast wrangler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T10:25:29.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23539" CreationDate="2018-10-19T10:42:58.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that while baking yeast is a close relative of beer yeast, it generally has a much lower alcohol tolerance. Alcohol inhibits yeast, which is why different yeast strains for different applications have different alcohol tolerances. Baking yeast generally scores very low on the alcohol tolerance scale, which means that fermentation may stop when there are still many unfermented sugars left that a better yeast strain would have converted into alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want alcohol levels that are worth distilling, you may want to consider using a better yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T10:42:58.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23487" CreationDate="2018-10-19T18:52:25.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many caps are made with an oxygen absorbing layer to prevent the beer from oxidizing. The benefit of such layers is disputed, however they are definitely not functioning anymore when being used a second time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16704" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T18:52:25.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-20T00:52:15.583" Score="1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to brew a 5lb batch, I don't really know exactly the step when should we add corn sugar though. Also, I'm wondering that once I'm done boiling and adding DME, yeast, hop, etc.. then shall I cover my bottle with the lid and an airlock as well as taking a sample to pour into the test-jar? I don't think the beer in bottle and jar have the same condition to be the same.&#xA;That's all I need to know for my very first time and holidays coming, so, please help me as soon as possible, I really appreciate you all.&#xA;Have a good one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16708" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T15:58:41.653" Title="Urgent help for a new beginner" Tags="|airlock|priming-sugar|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23578" CreationDate="2018-10-20T12:42:16.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you mean a 5 gallon batch (19 L)?  I don't know your specific recipe, but the corn sugar is usually for priming the bottles for carbonation after the beer is done.  So you would boil your extract and hops, cool it down and put it in your jar or bucket for fermentation, add the yeast, and wait a week or two for it to be done.  After all that, when the yeast is done fermenting, you would add the corn sugar to the beer and then bottle and cap it.  The extra bit of sugar you're adding is for the yeast to wake up and eat and turn into CO2 in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your test jar is to take a sample to make a gravity measurement, you'd take that before you add the yeast.  It is very informative and recommended to take a gravity sample, but not required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy home brewing.  Reply back with any questions you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastActivityDate="2018-10-20T12:42:16.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-21T15:53:59.273" Score="2" ViewCount="2879" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if it works to use beer yeast to make wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a batch of chardonnay grape crushed and sitting in my fridge right now, but I bought beer yeast by mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I use the beer yeast to make white wine?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, could I have an answer today? Those grapes ain't gonna last!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16712" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-10-21T16:05:17.197" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T16:05:17.197" Title="Beer yeast for wine making?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23580" CreationDate="2018-10-21T15:56:46.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick Answer: you can 100% use beer yeast for wine making. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long Answer: you can and it will make wine, but your flavour profile may not be what you are expecting. It will be alcoholic and it will have been made from grapes but it may not taste like wine. A huge proportion of the flavour of wine comes from the volatile compounds produced during yeast metabolism. This is a major contributor to the Terroir of a wine. You will just end up with a slightly different flavour profile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made wine in the past with baker's yeast. It was not as good as that I have made with wine yeast but it was perfectly drinkable, and after a time matured rather nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always pitch in the beer yeast and tomorrow pitch in some extra wine yeast, if you do this in the first 24 hours of fermentation you should still get some of the vinous volatiles, as the majority of flavour compounds produced by yeast are produced in the first 72H, during the exponential growth phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2018-10-21T16:04:22.737" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T16:04:22.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-21T21:32:35.307" Score="1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've decided to brew my very first Lager, after some good results on my Ales. I did a proper research on methods to try a refined process, specially when it comes to fermentation schedules and temperatures. I chose a simple Vienna Lager recipe as my first attempt, and it's now finishing the first week on primary (controlled temperature at 12ºC). Since I'm new with this yeasts, I wanted to take a sample to ensure everything it's working fine. It should be, since there's still yeast activity visible on my fermenter. Some egg-like smell was perceptible during the first five days, as it was described on various forums. But I want to make sure I'm not compromising a fermenter for 3 weeks with useless wort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe after one week on primary? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I sanitize the faucet before taking the sample?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16711" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T14:28:05.147" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T19:02:10.423" Title="Taking sample on primary" Tags="|fermentation|lager|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-22T13:17:18.053" Score="3" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just pitched K1-V116 into a batch of rosehip wine.  As I finished, thoughts of one kind of yeast led to another and I went to feed my sourdough starter - and stopped.  K1-V1116 is a killer strain which secretes toxic polypeptides able to kill other strains and species.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that even minute levels of yeast contamination (such as from having previously made a sourdough in the same room - even many months previously) can completely prevent establishing ginger beer plant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience or information on how likely I am to have problems with tiny amounts of leftover K1-V1116 killing my sourdough starter?  There is bound to have been a few thousand cells lofted into the air when I opened the packet.  How paranoid about this do I need to be?!  I make wine and bread in the same kitchen and I like my established sourdough starter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16710" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T09:47:19.260" Title="Could killer yeast affect my sourdough starter?" Tags="|yeast|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23583" CreationDate="2018-10-22T14:23:02.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In principle, yes, in the sense that any rogue outside yeast or bacteria could take over your sourdough.  However, in what you described, I wouldn't worry about potential cells that have become airborne.  They would not only have to find their way to your starter, but then take hold and out compete what you've got going in your starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, if you are happy with your starter as it is, you might want to consider freezing some of it.  Starters, by virtue of being alive, evolve on their own or from what they pick up in its surroundings.  Think of it as creating a backup copy of your starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T14:23:02.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23582" CreationDate="2018-10-22T18:11:26.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all comes down to how clean and sanitized you are when you take your sample, but it should be no different than if you've done this with an ale.  It is safer after one week then it was when you brewed it because it has had a week to make alcohol, but I wouldn't be any more concerned about taking a gravity reading now than when you took a gravity before you pitched your yeast (assuming you did that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you ask about your faucet, are you fermenting in a bucket with a spigot on it, or perhaps in a conical?  It certainly wouldn't hurt to dunk your faucet in sanitizer (or to spray some up there of you can't dunk it).  I would be surprised if that is any reasonable path for contamination (unless your faucet is REALLY nasty).  Your faucet is probably a ball-valve and they operate by very effectively cutting off physical contact between the liquid on each side of the ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T18:11:26.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-22T19:37:01.217" Score="3" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to add cherry flavour to cider batch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I previously tried adding whole mashed cherries to the carboy at the beginning of primary fermentation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it have been been to first make a simple syrup with the cherries or to simple add cherry juice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16714" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T12:21:15.377" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T20:36:58.277" Title="Adding a cherry flavour to cider" Tags="|cider|fruit|flavoring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-22T20:02:50.467" Score="3" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;This airlock won't stay in my 5-gal glass carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OBulQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OBulQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://morewinemaking.com/products/universal-stopper-hole.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://morewinemaking.com/products/universal-stopper-hole.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried drying out the bung hole and also the bung outer edge, but it still slowly rises and pops out.  This is my masking tape hack to hold it down.  Are there better ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the proper procedure for installing airlocks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2ynu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2ynu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T12:21:29.923" Title="Airlock won't stay in carboy" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-22T21:23:35.763" Score="0" ViewCount="985" Body="&lt;p&gt;I added my ginger bug to my Ginger Brew. It's now been 5 days with no visible signs of carbonation. Should I Add more ginger bug to my Brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16716" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T04:19:31.630" Title="No carbonation in my Ginger Brew" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-23T00:12:40.827" Score="1" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at a Christmas ale to brew and found this recipe (I am still learning to brew, so I am using malt extracts)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/variant-of-great-lakes-christmas-ale-clone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/variant-of-great-lakes-christmas-ale-clone&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;. I am guessing 5 gallons of water and steep the grains for 20 minutes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16717" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T01:23:47.773" Title="What does it mean by late boil?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-10-25T20:17:55.437" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23589" CreationDate="2018-10-23T01:23:47.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late boil = The last few minutes of a boil. Usually for pastuerizing purposes of the addition. Typically 3-10 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T01:23:47.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23587" CreationDate="2018-10-23T01:26:53.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use this style. I press them all the way down to the lip. Wet or dry they stay put. Take a little work and patience to get out though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T01:26:53.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23588" CreationDate="2018-10-23T04:19:31.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you bottled the bug + ginger sugar-water - It's best to wait.  At least for 2 weeks, then re-evaluate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the bottles warm ?  More than 15C / 59F ?   Ale yeast (and bread making yeast) will go dormant if it's too cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be there's only a small amount of yeast in each bottle, and it's taking time to establish itself.  It &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; help to gently agitate the bottles to rouse the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T04:19:31.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23599" CreationDate="2018-10-23T08:24:55.660" Score="1" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gospel of John&lt;/a&gt; states that dry yeast should be hydrated at a temperature warmer than what you would typically start fermentation. But John also states that yeast should be pitched from cold to warm, i.e. the yeast slurry should be colder than the cooled wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of ale yeast:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;recommended rehydration temperature: 24°C &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;recommended fermentation temperature: 16-20°C (I want to start at 16°C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I hydrate my yeast at 24°C and then cool it to below 16°C without shocking the yeast? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it OK to let it cool down? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over what time period (It should be pitched about 30min after hydration)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16247" LastEditorUserId="16247" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T12:41:38.947" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T16:16:49.327" Title="Should I let hydrated dry yeast cool before pitching" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|dry-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23593" CreationDate="2018-10-23T09:07:14.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you finish you boil phase and cool your wort, depending on the material you use, it would be quite time consuming to go down to 16C especially if your room temperature is above that, Considering that,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I would say that you should pitch your yeast around 20-22C (temp after boil wort cooling) and then place your wort in your temperature controlled environnement (at 16C). That way you will not shock your yeast (a couple of degrees doesn't do much). Your fermentation will start after few hours and by that time your wort would be at desired temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cooling down your yeast could also be a solution, the only precaution is to do it slowly (not submerge your yeast in ice).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Concerning your point about pitching 30min after rehydratation, I would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; do that. To ensure good fermentation, It is always recommended to make a yeast starter (from 0.5L to 2L depending on your needs) at least one day in advance. You can find good &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;yeast starter calculators&lt;/a&gt; online and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewcabin.com/yeast-starter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;good technical documentation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T09:07:14.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23586" CreationDate="2018-10-23T09:13:39.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All techniques you mention will work, e.g. juice, syrup or fresh fruits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only concern would be that you will have a &lt;em&gt;fermented&lt;/em&gt; cherry flavor, &#xA;which may not be the same as the fresh cherries you put in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would test multiple types of additions on smaller batches to make sure you like the final taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T09:13:39.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23507" CreationDate="2018-10-23T11:33:39.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saied, experimenting with yeasts and microorganisms is fun, as long as you do prior research. The other three answers have great points and I would just like to elaborate more on what they have suggested. Bread yeast is a starting point as it is readily available and you get well cultivated strains. I think the next step is to use microorganisms that occur naturally. For example chickpeas have Lactobacillus brevis, Lactococcus lactis and Lactobacillus plantarum. These bacteria will turn milk to yoghurt, corn to silaged animal feed and corn syrup to alcohol. Likewise many fruits have microorganisms on their skin which will ferment the sugars of the fruit, like grapes, fresh date plums (not the ones that are dried to eat, but the ones that resemble tomato), figs, etc. Under ordinary circumstances (if you don't have a lab suited for this purpose) it may not be easy to cultivate these organisms from fresh fruits or vegetables. For example developing yoghurt culture from chickpeas requires 6 generations (you need to cultivate it 6 times, filtering &amp;amp; feeding each time) before being eligible to be used. Most likely you would be able to utilize microorganisms from the skin of these fruits to further develop your bread yeast. A common approach used in Turkey is to use morning dew of plants/fruits and develop the strain in milk or filtered fruit juice. But be careful to use sanitized equipment as you wouldn't want to contaminate it with household bacteria. And definitely do research, because some organisms will inhibit each other, they would require certain pH values of the medium, temperature, etc. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16718" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T11:33:39.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-23T13:49:00.493" Score="0" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I cold crashed and force carbed a saison recently, but after trying a glass I realized that it might be a little young and too funky. I took the keg out of the fridge and let it warm to room temperature. Will the yeast in the keg still be viable and able to clean up their mess a little? For reference I used White labs WLP590, french saison yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is there any issue with warming the beer so quickly? That is, have I done any damage by pulling the keg out of a 34 degree Fahrenheit fridge and allowing it to free rise to room temp? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastEditorUserId="16438" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T17:11:21.017" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T17:11:21.017" Title="Bringing Cold Crashed Beer to Room Temperature" Tags="|kegging|conditioning|cold-crash|saison|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23597" CreationDate="2018-10-24T16:03:52.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding your question about yeast viability - it probably depends a little bit on how long you had the beer stored in the fridge, and how cold you stored it. Assuming you only had it stored for a few days, it's likely you will still have viable yeast left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also believe that you have not done any harm by warming your beer. The full keg of beer has quite a bit of &quot;thermal mass&quot;, so I doubt it warmed up all that quickly anyway. The warming rate might have some impact on the health of the yeast, but other than that your beer should be fine. Also, I'm sure the beer warmed much more slowly than a yeast pack would when you remove it from the fridge to warm it before fermentation, so I doubt you've done much damage to your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, having said all that, some of the &quot;young and funky&quot; flavors in your beer may mellow with time, regardless of whether or not your yeast is still viable. I often notice my beers improve with a little age - even when they are stored cold. Some of the flavors you are picking up may be unrelated to yeast needing to clean up their mess, as you say. However, without knowing the exact flavors you are picking up, it's hard to know for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, you should be fine. Let it hang out warm for a couple days, cool it back down, and RDWHAHB!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16700" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T16:03:52.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23593" CreationDate="2018-10-24T16:16:49.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the jury is still out on whether or not you need to rehydrate your yeast at all. You can find people on both sides of the argument. For example here is an article detailing an &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2014/09/15/sprinkled-vs-rehydrated-dry-yeast-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;experiment between rehydrated and dry sprinkled yeast&lt;/a&gt;. Personally, I don't like to rehydrate due to the extra work and potential for contamination, but that's just my own preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to rehydrate, in general you want to have your yeast slurry close to your wort temperature. The way you can accomplish this is to slowly add a little bit of wort to your rehydrated yeast. Each time you add some wort, your yeast slurry will cool and get closer to the wort temperature. Once your yeast temperature is within a few degrees of your wort temperature, you can pitch it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lallemandbrewing.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Rehydration-Ales.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This document from Lallemand&lt;/a&gt; explains a little more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16700" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T16:16:49.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23611" CreationDate="2018-10-24T17:18:34.930" Score="1" ViewCount="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently been attempting to use fresh fruit to flavor my wines and have had disastrous results. The recipes I've found and copied all say to remove the fruit from the must after around 7 days and then let the must finish fermenting.&#xA;By doing this, the wine finishes with little to no fruit flavor. The recipes all call for around 12lbs/5gal batch. My SG and FG numbers fall well within the intended target, but there's little flavor and my blackberry came out hardly colored at all. I worry the fruit will rot in the must if left in any longer. What am I not doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13288" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T20:29:39.137" Title="Using fresh fruit for wine" Tags="|flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24087" CreationDate="2018-10-24T21:49:45.300" Score="3" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a recurring off-flavor in my ales that I would like help identifying and preventing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flavor is a yeasty flavor with some savory components. I have tasted it a few times in commercial beers, but usually it's less pronounced and fairly tolerable. In my homebrews, it can be overwhelming and I've even tossed a few batches because of it. Prior to fermentation (post sparge), the flavor is not there. It only appears after fermentation has started. It always accompanies an overproduction of trub, with more &quot;floaters&quot; than normal and more haze than normal. I can usually smell it right away, often times right after fermentation starts. It usually does not subside with bulk aging, but a few times it seems like the brew has become more tolerable after being kegged for a month or two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not really match any of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/articles/homebrew-off-flavors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;typical off-flavors&lt;/a&gt;, but does almost have a blood-like component and sometimes a sulphur component. However, a metallic flavor ostensibly comes from metal equipment, not the fermentation, and sulfur from lagers... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never had this problem with sour beers, ciders or lagers, only ales, and I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; always with S05, one packet for a typical SG of 1.050 - 1.060, most often rehydrated, sometimes directly pitched. I &lt;em&gt;thought&lt;/em&gt; I had used a different yeast in the last one, but after looking at my notes, it was in fact, S05. I did buy a 6-pack of S05 a while back, so maybe the yeast was bad, but it seems like I have had this problem before I bought that pack, but maybe not as often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per jsolarski's comment, I did solicit some taste notes. Unfortunately, all I really got was a quick head turn, clearly noting the off flavor, but not really any good descriptions, except perhaps a bit salty. I don't pick up any salt flavors, but perhaps this comes from the savory notes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll bring a growler to an event tonight with some other homebrewers and see what other tasting notes I can get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly related, &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/4591/3352&quot;&gt;What exactly is yeast-bite?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: &#xA;I had a few friends try the beer and one home brewer in particular identified it right away as Tetrahydropalmatine (THP), and he described the flavor as mousy or cheerios. I think this sounds plausible since I've described it as savory, and another as salty. According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/articles/homebrew-off-flavors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;milk the funk&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;mousy&quot;, &quot;urine&quot; (in high amounts) Cheerios® or Cap'n Crunch® (in low amounts), &quot;breakfast cereal&quot;, or more generically, &quot;cracker biscuit&quot; flavor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, most of the article is with respect to sour beers, and I do not have this problem with sour beers. Also, much of the production is mentioned post-fermentation, but in my case, it is noticeable at the very start of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of speculation in the article, but not much that matches my experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lambic.info/Tetrahydropyridines&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; mentions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the presence of oxygen, Brettanomyces will produce both ETHP and ATHP from lysine and glucose or sucrose, though the exact metabolic pathway remains unknown&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not using brett, but perhaps S05 can do this as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, given that, &lt;strong&gt;how do I go about preventing it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2018-10-27T19:00:02.647" LastActivityDate="2019-04-07T14:38:17.777" Title="Help identifying (and preventing) an off flavor" Tags="|fermentation|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-24T22:07:59.743" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;After bringing home a growler and not finishing it before it went flat, I began to wonder - could I bottle it, add some sugar, and re-carbonate it? (The beer was naturally carbonated and we'll assume it was not contaminated)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16724" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T22:50:57.220" Title="Saving a flat beer" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23603" CreationDate="2018-10-24T22:41:53.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Theory yes you can, but YMMV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First there may not be alot of yeast left in suspension if any at all. can be fixed by adding a neutral yeast to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second you have introduced oxygen to the beer, which will cause it to go stale very quickly. Cant be fixed, only drink it faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, which you mentioned is contamination. but per your comments, not a factor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T22:41:53.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23603" CreationDate="2018-10-24T22:50:57.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Force carbonating it in a PET bottle with a carb cap and then drinking it very shortly afterwards would be a better approach, to my mind. IT will still oxidise, but if you just want to enjoy it rather than tipping it, this is much faster and easier. Does rely on having the gear though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T22:50:57.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="325" CreationDate="2018-10-25T14:08:34.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used bentonite to clear every wine I've made and usually the clearing began within the hour...and was complete and beautiful within 24 hours...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...EXCEPT when I made Plum wine...bentonite did not help...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added pectin enzyme before fermentation...and cloudiness remained after both fermentation cycles...then I added an additional dose (1) after fermentation ceased and got a slight improvement...there was no change in color, nor taste, nor in the quality...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to add even another dose, but I suspect the true answer will be found by adding doses of simple PATIENCE!! Plum wine is notorious for its stubborn cloudiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16727" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T14:08:34.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-25T15:46:48.020" Score="2" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi i am doing my first home brew.&#xA;after less than 24 hours the beer was coming through the water in the air lock.&#xA;i looked online and it said to change the airlock and put it back on i did this several times.&#xA;I did this for the last time some nearly 24 hour ago and now there are no bubbles in the airlock.&#xA;I am waiting for my sg tool to come so i can check the sg of the beer but it doesn't arrive until another week.&#xA;Any suggestions? Would highly appreciate it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16728" LastEditorUserId="16728" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T16:50:35.947" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T22:37:33.633" Title="Airlock Blow now no bubbles" Tags="|fermentation|beer|airlock|help|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23607" CreationDate="2018-10-25T17:45:26.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were getting beer/yeast coming out of your airlock, it seems safe to say your beer was fermenting, perhaps quite vigorously. It's not uncommon for a beer to ferment completely within a few days, so that signs of active fermentation will almost completely disappear. This may be what has happened. Or it could be that in replacing the airlock, you maybe didn't get a good seal and the carbon dioxide is escaping through a bad seal instead of through the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you have much to worry about here. Wait for your new tool to arrive, and once you can check your gravity, take two different readings a few days apart. Assuming the readings are close to what you expect and there is no change between the two readings, you are likely good to go ahead and bottle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16700" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T17:45:26.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23487" CreationDate="2018-10-25T19:11:32.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would probably say that re-using caps is a risky idea for a few reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) even though they may look like they are still new, they were already crimped over a bottle so there is a chance that the reliability of the cap properly resealing over another bottle are diminished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) as someone said previously, a lot of caps have a coating on the inside that helps prevent oxidizing. Re-capping would eliminate the effectiveness of this the second time around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Considering the time and effort that you would put into a brew, do you really want to risk spoiling some of your finished brew over a couple of caps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16729" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T19:11:32.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15820" CreationDate="2018-10-25T19:22:25.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;if people are still wondering about these results.. both of these strains were found to be S. cerevisiae var. diastaticus and contain the gene that allows them to chop up dextrins and do this very slowly. Basically you end up with lower FG's than you would expect based on the target and recipe procedure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was myself wondering if people have bottle conditioned with either of these strains? I was worried about the yeast continuing in bottle and ended up over-carbed.&#xA;If you have bottle conditioned, how much time passed before bottling? and how long did you wait before opening the last of the bottles? what were your results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16730" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T19:22:25.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23600" CreationDate="2018-10-25T20:29:39.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advise would be to freeze the fruit before adding it, it causes the cell membranes and cell walls to become perforated by the expanding ice crystals allowing all the colour and flavour out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use this trick when making my 3 day sloe gin, no faffing around waiting for months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also used this for elderberry stouts to get all the flavour out into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T20:29:39.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23586" CreationDate="2018-10-25T20:36:58.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second JeanMi, fruit or syrup will work. Traditionally the Belgian brewers would add the cherries to the fermented beer then leave it in the conditioning tanks for 12 months as the cherries get eaten away by the yeast leaving only the stones. There are not many breweries left doing this but the results are spectacular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of use now use fruit syrups, or fruit run through the blender. I often freeze my fruit to burst the cell walls and extract the flavours more rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again as JeanMi rightly worries, you will end up with fermented cherry flavour, but to my mind that is a wonderful thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure we can precisely answer your question as 'Best' is very subjective. Most traditional is to add whole cherries and wait, most rapid is to take a blender and make a cherry syrup. It totally depends if you desire speed or are a sucker of historical methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T20:36:58.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23507" CreationDate="2018-10-25T20:46:33.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need beer yeast to make beer. If you are using bread yeast try to keep the temperature down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But. If you are trying to recreate a given style then having the correct yeast is very important. A large amount of the flavour of the beer comes from the yeast you use. Also, a large amount of how well the yeast makes the flavours is from how warm the yeast gets. If you can keep the temperature of your brew down at 18-20C you should get a cleaner flavoured brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, have you considered trying a Lambic style brew and just using your local micro organisms, leave some wort to cool on a window sill by a open window, with a thin muslin cloth on top to stop flies getting in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T20:46:33.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23578" CreationDate="2018-10-26T15:58:41.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to the homebrew game. I have a few batches under my belt. The following is some advice I can give on Extract brewing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you even get started, make sure that you have your hops measured out and set aside. this way when its time to add them to the boil, you will be all set and wont have to worry about spending time getting them ready and risk missing the time mark to add them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want to do is get your water heated up to about 155 degrees F. and slowly add your dry extract (DME) into the water. As you doing this make sure that you mix the DME in with a spoon or a whisk. I prefer a whisk as it mixes in the DME much better than a spoon (you may want to have a helper here to pour the DME in while you stir or vice-versa). As you are adding the DME you may get some clumpy chunks. If this happens stop pouring the DME and continue stiring until all the clumps are gone. Once they are gone continue pouring the extract. If your using Liquid Extract then the clumps should not be a problem but you still want to stir in the contents to avoid scorching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all the extract is in, bring your water up to a boil and add the hops at the times indicated by the recipe. I'm not sure exactly what recipe your using but a lot of brews have a 60 minute boil. with hop additions at the beginning, 15,30, and 45 minutes in. But that could be different for your recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your boil is complete, have an Ice bath ready (sink filled with ice and water) and place the boil pot in the ice bath. If you plan on doing home-brewing more regularly, I would suggests investing in Wort Chiller. but for now the Ice bath will do. It will just take longer to get your wort down to a safe temperature to pitch the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point it is very important that anything that the wort touches needs to be sanitized. This includes any spoons, siphons, airlocks, siphon hose and fermentors or carboys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the wort is cooled down to 65-70 degrees F siphon the wort from the boil pot into a carboy or fermentation jug&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a Hydrometer, you can take a hydrometer reading before adding the wort to the fermentor. This reading will be your original gravity. It should read something like 1.045 but again this totally depends on the type of beer your doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the wort is in the fermentor or carboy insert the siphon hose in the airlock hole about 1-2 inches above the wort. insert the other end of the hose into a bucket of sanitizer. This is called a blow-off tube. It will allow you to monitor the first stages of fermentation. Bubbles will rapidly appear in the bucket of sanitizer over a 24-48 hour period. after about 24-48 hours the bubbles will start to subside. Once they subside to about 2-3 per minute, remove the siphon hose from the airlock hole and insert the airlock in. be sure to fill the airlock with a bit of sanitizer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now your fermentor is ready to sit for about 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 2 weeks, its time to bottle. At this point you can take another hydrometer reading if you have a hydrometer. This reading will be your final gravity. If you have the original gravity and final gravity number, you will be able to determine the ABV of your beer. Search the web for ABV calculators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that your ready to bottle, this is where the sugar comes into play. before you do anything take the sugar and dissolve it in some boiling water. generally I use about 3/4 cup of water and 4-5 oz of sugar. This can be different for the style of beer and the type of sugar your using. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/pages/priming-sugar-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Click Here&lt;/a&gt; for a good calculator to determine how much sugar to dissolve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the sugar is dissolved, cool it down and pour it into a separate pot or bucket that is large enough to hold your wort. Siphon the wort into this pot or bucket. Remember make sure that all these things that touch the wort are properly sanitized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people stir the sugar around. I advise against this as you risk adding unnecessary oxygen to the beer. as long as you siphon the wort into this jug the wort will mix into the sugar just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all the wort is in the pot or bucket, get your bottles and caps ready by sanitizing them. Now its time to start racking the beer in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the siphon and a racking cane (that should be provided with your kit), insert the cane into the bottle until it touches the bottom. Release the pinch clip and let the bottle fill up until it reaches the top of the bottle. Once it reaches the top, press the pinch clip to stop the beer flow and remove the racking cane from the bottle. The removal of the cane should give you just enough headroom in the bottle to provide optimum space for the carbination that will be made from the priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat this process until all your bottles are filled or the beer runs out (hopfully it will be the latter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cap the bottles and place them in a cool (65-70 degree F) place. Try to avoid storing them in direct sunlight. I usually keep mine downstairs in my basement closet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about 1-2 weeks the beer should be ready to drink. place a few (or all) in a fridge and enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that this will help you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16729" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T15:58:41.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-26T16:06:09.927" Score="7" ViewCount="1702" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/article/calculating-water-usage-advanced-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BYO&lt;/a&gt; malt absorbs roughly 1.04L of water per kg malt. Knowing this makes calculating things like mash and sparge water quite a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a rough absorption rate for hops?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searched round the web but cannot seem to find anything. I guess it may vary according to the hop size and density, but some rough figures will help with calculations like topping up water and rackable post-fermentation volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a difference between adding hops in the boil vs dry hop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T14:12:36.167" Title="Hops Wort Absorption" Tags="|hops|wort|water|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23607" CreationDate="2018-10-26T22:37:33.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What temperature is your fermenter.  You may want to consider cooling it down if it is too high.  That will slow fermentation and potentially produce better tasting beer if your temp is too high.  Keep in mind that fermentation creates heat, so the fermenter will have a higher than room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as no bubbles go, make sure that everything is snug because the CO2 may be escaping around the airlock as opposed to passing thru it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T22:37:33.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10069" CreationDate="2018-10-27T09:55:14.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;ALL IS NOT LOST!!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with a distinctly vinegar flavour to my apple cider having left it maybe two days too long in the fermenter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Scottish blood flowing through my Kiwi veins, I couldn't stand the thought of it going to waste, so I boiled 2/3rds of the cider-vinegar to 70 degrees C (killing just enough yeast to sufficiently ferment the added sugar from the apple juice to the point of carbonation and no further), then added 9 litres of preservative-free apple juice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prayed and I trusted, and even only two weeks later have enjoyed the finest cider I've made to date (further enhanced by watching the All Blacks beat our arch-rivals, the Wallabies, in Yokohama as I did it)! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16735" LastActivityDate="2018-10-27T09:55:14.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-27T15:13:04.413" Score="3" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is kind of hard to explain, but I'll try. Ive got quite a nice flavoured, mostly chinook hopped beer in the fermenter, but I was wondering if I could add another dimension to the flavour with a dry hop if I wanted to add an extra depth of flavour to it. This might sound silly, but Id like the beer to taste like it does now, but perhaps end on a slight citrus note. Is this possible to do at this stage? Or does it have to be built into the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some mosaic and cascade hops that might do the trick flavour wise but I dont want to ruin whats there already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16736" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T18:02:09.623" Title="Dry hop to add depth of flavour?" Tags="|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-27T20:37:21.670" Score="3" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a carbonated ginger hydromel. this is my first batch of mead. Im confused about the use of Campden tablets. If I use these to protect against nasty things happening due to the raw ginger (not even sure if this is a risk) will they stop fermentation?&#xA;thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16737" LastActivityDate="2018-10-27T22:19:06.903" Title="carbonated ginger hydromel" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23619" CreationDate="2018-10-27T22:19:06.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Campden tablets will not stop fermentation, they will help drive out Chlorides from tap water at 1 tab/100l, and at higher levels they will protect against unwanted bacteria and some wild yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-10-27T22:19:06.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-28T02:59:20.100" Score="3" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I seek knowledge in regard Mead, this is my first attempt at making some mulberry mead, the recipe I used was:&#xA;19 liter Carboy &#xA;6kg Honey&#xA;1kg Raisins&#xA;2teaspoons of Wyeast Nutrient &#xA;1 little pack of the yeast&#xA;5kg Mulberries, soaked in 10 cups water and 2 cups brown sugar over night, mashed it all up into a goo, strained it with some pantyhose and squeezed all the juice out of it, maybe had umm 6-7 liters of mulberry juice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So couple things if you could please help me;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;when I first strained the mulberries, before I put them in the pantyhose all the little seeds got through, so I ended up with a little blanket of floaty seeds, I thought since I’m adding raisins some little seeds can go into the brew to, have I made an error with adding the seeds?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;while I’m on the mulberries again with the first strain I didn’t have a sieve so I used, what I think it was a pasta strainer it had holes the width of a pencil, again I thought I’m adding raisins some pulp can go into it also, was this wrong also?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;now because of the pulp, seeds, raisins I’m looking at the brew and I’ve maybe lost mmm 2-3 liters of liquid for mass volume, So my big question is:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;can I add more liquid now (Honey) to top-up the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I was told to ferment it for around 2 months then strain it and put it into a fresh Carboy for the remaining time, this was when I thought I could also add the top-up liquid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or don’t top-up just leave it be as is&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made 2 x 19 litres, so I thought mmm that’s maybe 5-6 good mead litres I could have drunk, so do I top-up or not please?  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IvesE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16738" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T15:10:44.710" Title="Mulberries in the Mead" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13007" CreationDate="2018-10-28T03:27:50.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tried it and it worked great. Chill to almost 0C (32F) then wait 2 mins after you pump. My soda stream capsule is pretty done though. I tried a few days ago without chilling and the cider went everywhere.. I put the standard white soda stream bottle filled with the cider in the freezer for about 1:30 hours&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16739" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T13:19:34.743" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T13:19:34.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6058" CreationDate="2018-10-29T17:28:58.357" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;How did Monks and farmers do it? Farmers in Norway apparently do it with even less fanfare.   &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.garshol.priv.no/blog/342.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.garshol.priv.no/blog/342.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Terje took some wort in a plastic bucket. Then he brought out a plastic box of pale gray flakes. This was the kveik, which Terje got from a friend in Hornindal twenty years ago, and has been using since. Terje collects the yeast after fermentation each time, and hands it to his father-in-law, who then cleans and dries it, before storing it in the freezer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken from the comments on the article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As far as I know, nobody's ever written down or in any way documented the cleaning process. From what I gathered, the cleaning is the usual process of putting the yeast in water, then draining off the non-yeast part. This is repeated a few times. The yeast is then smeared on baking paper in a room in the cellar. Once it's dried into a thin (3-4mm) crust you can just crush it by folding the paper and drop it into a small plastic box and stuff it in the freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14110" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T13:39:53.370" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T13:39:53.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15086" CreationDate="2018-10-29T19:25:44.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first respondent's estimate of the weight of a teaspoonful of Knox gelatin was correct. On a gram scale it was 3.15 gm. I found that 30 seconds to start and then 15 second bursts of microwaves on &quot;high&quot; resulted in a sufficiently fine incremental temperature rise to hit the desired range. Neither of the answers so far described whether swirling of the carboy was desired, but I figure it would be helpful in getting even distribution, so I did. I then put the carboy in my mini-frig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, the Knox gelatin box I used says the contents are 28 gm and they are divided into 4 packages, so each packet is 7 grams and there was probably a teaspoonful left after measurement, so if you didn't have a gram scale or a teaspoon, using half of one of the packets would probably be accurate enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16361" LastEditorUserId="16361" LastEditDate="2018-10-29T19:35:40.613" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T19:35:40.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23618" CreationDate="2018-10-29T20:47:12.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If its still in the fermentation vessel, then yes you can dry hop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advise is, if you have a 5 gal Batch, dry hop a gallon of it and test it out. that way if its not what you expected then you still have your original and if it is what you expected, you can scale it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then if it has your desired depth of flavor, build it in to your next iteration of the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How I deal with wanting to improve my beer after fermentation, Let it be and build your next recipe with the additions. That way i can think about what it really needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T20:47:12.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-29T23:18:06.550" Score="2" ViewCount="961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently mash on a gas hob, turning the hob off when I reach my strike temperature, then insulating my pot the best I can with towels etc.. This is easy to mess up and sometimes I miss my target or lose far too much heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally there would exist a (preferably affordable) device to regulate the temperature of my pot automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Induction hot plates were recommended, and I see that some allow you to set the temperature explicitly. However, most seem to allow you only to set the temperature in 10° or 20° increments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a hot plate exist which will hold a pot at a desired temperature to the nearest degree? Or else, what other appliances would achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16518" LastActivityDate="2018-11-02T21:20:18.683" Title="Induction hot plates with precise temperature control (maintaintaining mash temperature)" Tags="|all-grain|mash|temperature|temperature-control|induction-heating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23621" CreationDate="2018-10-30T15:10:44.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly top it off now if you want, but I've got a couple of questions. Are you able to take gravity readings from time-to-time? When you transfer it out of the carboy, what is it going to be going into, another carboy (same size?) or back into this one? Don't worry about the seeds, you'll eventually leave them behind. Two month fermentation is overkill unless you're fermenting very cold; let your gravity measurements tell you when you're done fermenting (on the other hand, it isn't going to hurt you either if you don't want to fuss with checking on it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time you rack to a new vessel, you leave some liquid behind. Some people top off with water each time they rack. Some don't like to dilute their wine/mead every time they rack, so they top off with wine or mead, and for people who don't like topping off, some add sanitized marbles to replace the volume lost to racking.  The idea in all these cases is to have the liquid come as far up the neck of the carboy to minimize the surface area that can be exposed to oxygen.  Some people don't worry about racking too much because each time you do, you introduce oxygen; others rack a lot because they want brilliantly crystal-clear wine/mead, and some split the difference and rack a few times but use fining agents such as Sparkolloid or gelatin. There's tons of info on podcasts (search on Ken Schramm, for example) that cover all sorts of philosophies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T15:10:44.710" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23645" CreationDate="2018-10-30T17:00:51.127" Score="1" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to bottle my first maple beer,and I notice it turn cloudy today.. There was froth starting on it for the past two days. Is this normal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16672" LastActivityDate="2018-11-11T17:28:36.600" Title="Maple Beer I notice it turn cloudy today" Tags="|cloudy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23618" CreationDate="2018-10-30T18:02:09.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry hopping will have a much larger impact on aroma than taste. Sniff the hops you are thinking of adding while sipping the beer (ideally a previous batch of the same recipe if this one hasn't dried out yet) to get a sense of the outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16747" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T18:02:09.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23587" CreationDate="2018-10-30T19:30:00.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would take a hard look at your airlock. Are you over-filling it? Is it sticking? It sounds like pressure is building up and not bubbling out for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be time to change out the bung. Poor thing could just be stretched out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16746" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T19:30:00.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23587" CreationDate="2018-10-31T12:21:29.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure it is the correct size?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the solid type, but what I find is that if I use a #7 bung, it wants to come out so I need to press it down a lot more.   However, if I use a #6.5 (just a bit smaller size), the bung holds well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T12:21:29.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23583" CreationDate="2018-10-31T14:23:09.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I've been using the starter and have not had any problems.  Certainly K1-V116 hasn't completely destroyed the sourdough starter - it's still sour so there must be lactobacilli still alive!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does seem more active than usual so it's possible that the wild yeasts have been replaced by K1-V116, but the effect is not very marked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 6 months on: there is a noticeable difference in the starter.  On the plus side, it's less fussy with regards to temperature, proves faster, and gives a better texture.  On the minus side, the flavour is much less complex - less sourdough and more normal yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether this is down to the wine yeast or some other factor I will never know, but I would recommend caution when using killer yeast around starter cultures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16710" LastEditorUserId="16710" LastEditDate="2019-03-05T09:47:19.260" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T09:47:19.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23641" CreationDate="2018-10-31T18:32:38.620" Score="1" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idea is pretty simple: bittering due to alpha acid isomerization is a function of boil time and quantity of bittering hops.  Hence, it's quoted that from an alpha acid standpoint, a 15 minute boil with twice the quantity of bittering hops is fairly equivalent to a 60-minute hop addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit lazy, and I'd rather not steam up the house any more than I need to, so a shorter boil time definitely has an appeal.  Plus, it seems like more of the nice aromatics would be retained, which sounds like a win-win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing a little research, I'm noticing that I see a decent amount of 15-minute American pale ale recipes popping up, almost at the exclusion of other, more malt-forward styles.  That's got me curious: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a benefit to a full-length boil, other than saving a few bucks on hops?&lt;/strong&gt;  Is there something that happens on the malt side that takes time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastEditorUserId="15127" LastEditDate="2018-10-31T20:47:16.350" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T23:33:14.587" Title="Is there a benefit to a full 60 (plus) minute boil, as opposed to shorter boil/more hops?" Tags="|beer|hops|boil|malt|beginner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23638" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-31T13:25:15.123" Score="2" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just brewed a sour with Basil thrown in at flameout. Now 6 weeks into the fermenter with WLP648 there's not much sourness and a bit (overwhelming) flavour of Basil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what my options were to fix this. The Basil flavour should be less intense, so my options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixing it with another (probably pure) sour lambic without any herbs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for a few months to get it more sour and hope the herb taste fizzles out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a lot of experience with lambics or with herbs in beer, so wanted to get some feedback on what to expect after aging it for another few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" OwnerDisplayName="Lucas Kauffman" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2018-11-26T02:55:31.423" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T17:49:32.230" Title="Sour beer over herbed with Basil" Tags="|flavor|sour|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23630" CreationDate="2018-10-31T23:15:41.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on your budget or how much you want to kludge/hack together to make it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thought that comes to mind is a PID controller and a heating element. &#xA;you can get to within a few degrees or your target, but if you dont understand PID, then you can get lots of overshoot, which leads to scorching or burning. &#xA;THis is a direct heat system can be used with a hotplate or heating element thats placed inside your mash tun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next thought is  RIMS-HERMS systems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially it heats the mash either in another tank or heat exchanger to keep it at your target temp. These systems can easily cost $1K+USD  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheapest solution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is get a wireless thermometer. the ones where you put the probe in, and you either get remote display, or some sort of app on a phone, and monitor it or have alarms set if it dips below or rises above certain thresholds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Recirculating Infusion Mash System (RIMS)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Heat Exchange Recirculating Mash System (HERMS)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T23:15:41.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23637" CreationDate="2018-10-31T23:26:51.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes your brew day can be shortened, using the methods &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/projects/short-shoddy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary of method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Mash for 30 mins, but times may vary &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Boil for 20 to 30 mins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) standard procedure from here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But some styles require a longer boil, due to Maillard reaction and Caramelization. one that comes to mind is barley wines and old ales. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to use the short and shoddy method for less boozy brews, and the standard or longer boils for strong beers, or specialty brews that require the complexity that Maillard reaction and Caramelization add to the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2018-10-31T23:33:14.587" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T23:33:14.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23643" CreationDate="2018-11-01T13:24:35.200" Score="3" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making Honey Mead for the first time soon, I will try making 2 1 gallon jugs. I have everything I need (Jugs, siphon, DAP, red star wine yeast, honey, sanitizer, carboy), but I want to make a sweet mead with about 15% ABV when fermentation is done. My yeast will survive up to 18% and I don't want to add chemicals to get them to stop at 13-15%. But I also want the mead to stay sweet afterwards. Should I just add enough honey and DAP for the yeast to survive to 15% ABV and then back-sweeten? If so, when am I suppose to back-sweeten it? Do I sweeten it after I rack it or right before? Also is there  way to make the yeast stop at 15% without chemicals? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I also have a hydrometer, I have all the materials and tools required to make the mead, just confused on the procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16753" LastEditorUserId="16753" LastEditDate="2018-11-01T14:34:04.903" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T15:45:33.210" Title="First Time - Honey Mead questions" Tags="|yeast|mead|honey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23642" CreationDate="2018-11-01T15:45:33.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your options for stopping fermentation are to &lt;a href=&quot;https://eckraus.com/wine-making-stop-fermentation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;add chemicals&lt;/a&gt; (which you mentioned don't want to do), &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/easy-stove-top-pasteurizing-with-pics.193295/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pasteurize it&lt;/a&gt; with heat, or cold-crash it to make the yeast go dormant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think you can end up with greater than 15% ABV, another option is to let the yeast finish out on its own and you can dilute it back to where you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You back-sweeten at the end, but if you go that route you need to make sure your yeast is done or inactive, otherwise your fermentation will kick back off; that's not so bad when you are still in a carboy, but not so good if you've bottled and capped it.  Often wine, mead, and cider makers who want a sweet product will add sulfites before they back-sweeten to inactivate the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a non-carbonated sweet mead you can try to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gotmead.com/forum/showthread.php/21487-Gravity-for-semi-sweet-mead-and-how-much-honey?p=210243#post210243&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;walk your way into it&lt;/a&gt;.  You would first calculate what drop in gravity points you need to get 15% ABV, which if you use the standard equation (which isn't strictly true at high gravities) of ABV = (OG - FG) * 131.25, you need about 114 gravity points.  You would start with a certain amount of honey, let it ferment out and measure the final gravity, then keep adding more honey in small steps until you eventually add the number of gravity points you originally needed (&lt;em&gt;e.g.&lt;/em&gt;, if your first ferment dropped 60 points, you would need to add and ferment out 54 more points to get you to 114 points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, that requires a certain amount of attention and care, so a lot of people just sulfite when they get where they want to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T15:45:33.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23638" CreationDate="2018-11-02T11:42:02.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reducing the intensity of the Basil flavor is pretty much impossible, as this is the result of the amount of Basil used during brewing and you can't take some out. So your only option is to mask it with other flavors. Given that your sourness is low, increasing the sourness seems to be the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sourness in a sour beer is, to all intents and purposes, the result of lactic acid which is produced from sugars. Once you run out of sugars, lactic acid production stops. You could add more sugar but that will also produce more alcohol. So adding a little lactic acid may help here. It may mask some of  your basil flavors and restore your acidity to what you want it to be without upsetting the flavor balance of the beer, or it may not. You'll have to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, there's not much you can do. Write it off to experience, accept the experimentation as a normal part of this sort of brewing, and adjust it for your next brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-11-02T11:42:02.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23632" CreationDate="2018-11-02T14:47:16.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were you I'd wait a bit.  Ideally you want to be taking gravity readings so you'll know when primary fermentation is done.  Then sometimes secondary fermentation will cause foam/bubbles, you'll want to let that finish.  It's harder to measure, but I go with 1 week after primary and secondary &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be done.  And note that secondary doesn't mean you have flip fermenters, it's going to happen.  Putting your beer into a secondary fermenter is a good idea to get a clearer beer, but is extra work, more risk of infection, exposure to 02, etc.  I do it for some beers, but I usually let primary and secondary happen in one fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note it's one of the many reasons I switched to kegging.  Even if I put it into the keg a little early there is zero chance I'm going to make a bottle bomb, which can happen if bottling happens too early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16388" LastActivityDate="2018-11-02T14:47:16.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23630" CreationDate="2018-11-02T21:20:18.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00UKPBXM4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sous vide cooker like the Anova&lt;/a&gt; can achieve what you're hoping to accomplish with an induction cooktop. I've used a sous vide cooker to hold mash temperature when doing brew-in-a-bag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heat the water with a gas burner until it has almost reached the target mash temperature. I then decrease the flame to a low setting so that the it helps maintain the temperature, but is not &lt;em&gt;increasing&lt;/em&gt; the temperature. Then I set the sous vide cooker to my desired mash temp (accurate within a fraction of a degree) and allow it to keep the wort at the correct temperature. (I use the additional gas heat because the Anova only has enough heating power for 5 gallons of water, and it would take forever to reach your mash temperature with its tiny cooking element.) A sous vide cooker has the added benefit that it circulates the mash to minimize hot spots, but it also is subject to clogging if you don't effectively separate your grains from the rest of the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12004" LastActivityDate="2018-11-02T21:20:18.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23648" CreationDate="2018-11-02T22:39:00.977" Score="4" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll be brewing a small (1.5 gal) batch of beer soon, and in my quest for &lt;del&gt; laziness&lt;/del&gt; &lt;i&gt;efficiency&lt;/i&gt;, I was thinking of brewing in a smaller pot, rather than in my 7-gallon monstrosity.  However, my immersion chiller doesn't fit inside the small pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I be able to get sufficient chilling with an ice bath?  I'll be trying a more hop-forward brew, and I'd still like to retain as much aromatics as I can, so I'd like to cool it quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some napkin math makes it appear that the bottom &amp;amp; sides of the small pot would have roughly 2/3 the surface area of the wort chiller, and would not have nearly the convective effects of flowing water through copper.  But on the flip side, a smaller batch would have much less thermal mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T15:38:27.350" Title="Is an ice bath sufficient to quickly cool a small batch of wort?" Tags="|beer|small-batch|cooling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23647" CreationDate="2018-11-03T08:17:32.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done this with a 10 liter (2.5 gal) stock pot in my kitchen sink when I started brewing, also batches from 1 to 1.5 gallon. I did two things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first step I cooled by letting water flow from the faucet on the outside area of the pot. I do have a detachable faucet which does make this easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second step, after sufficiently cooling (to around 40°C), I filled the kitchen sink with water and ice, and then you have to be patient. I also stirred this water around the pot to get better cooling. Make sure you have sufficient ice on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that I got my wort to a reasonable temperature in 20-30 minutes, at most 45 minutes. I can't remember that I needed to wait that long before I racked the wort to the fermentation vessel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-11-03T08:17:32.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23933" CreationDate="2018-11-03T10:36:35.043" Score="2" ViewCount="753" Body="&lt;p&gt;Left it for two weeks at 2.3 bar (35 PSI) and 17 C (59 F). Poured a 2 liter bottle, it made beer-like pleasant foams upon pouring but it had almost no sparkles to the taste bud. Should I let it sit for more or search for leaks again (already searched twice with both soap cream and the set-pressure-and-see-if-it-drops-after-some-days methods) ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Simon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should note that even a 10 ml (this is no more than a Tequila shot) pour for only tasting yields not much acid to the taste bud, so I think my problem comes mainly from lack of H2CO3 to begin with. Oh, and I am not using a bar tap, but a butterfly valve that already has a one footer tubing attached to it (of around 1/4&quot; inner diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16560" LastEditorUserId="16560" LastEditDate="2018-11-07T08:33:16.883" LastActivityDate="2024-01-31T03:16:15.447" Title="kegged cider CO2 foam, not much sparkle though" Tags="|carbonation|cider|temperature|pressure|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3481" CreationDate="2018-11-03T14:12:04.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water temperature over 170 can extract tannins from the grain, giving it off flavors. If you temp is high, remove the heat source and let it cool. Letting your mash sit for awhile until it cools to 150 will give you the conversion you need. The frozen water containers idea is great remedy for hot mash. Brewdog333&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15567" LastActivityDate="2018-11-03T14:12:04.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-04T02:04:29.700" Score="1" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;yea kinda think I didn't let it go long enough, also had other responsibilities other than a brewer so ¯_(ツ)_/¯&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16760" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T13:57:06.570" Title="what happens if the first fermentation hasn't ended and I go ahead and prime and bottle my beer?" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23647" CreationDate="2018-11-04T04:53:56.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you are brewing a small batch, I think that an ice bath will be quite sufficient, however you muct add more ice at regular intervals. I also suggest adding salt to your ice so that the melting point of the ice is raised. Keep a lot of ice at your service and remember to stir!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16658" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T04:53:56.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23651" CreationDate="2018-11-04T13:15:16.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, when we are bottling we wait for fermentation to complete and then add a defined amount of sugar that (by calculation or experience) will result in the desired level of carbonation in the sealed bottles. By not waiting for fermentation to complete, you have no way of knowing what your level of carbonation is going to be and you run the risk of &quot;bottle bombs&quot; - see &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/2009/08/27/5-home-brewing-tips-to-avoid-the-dreaded-bottle-bomb/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; for more information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The bottle exploded in the kitchen and left dark stout covering the walls, counter, floor and cabinets. It was only a 12 oz bottle, but it looked like someone had repainted the kitchen. Glass was also scattered as far as the living room and a small piece had even embedded itself in the drywall. I realized at that point that this homebrewing thing was a lot more dangerous than I had guessed. Someone could have been hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you bottle, you are confining the beer to a fixed volume. The yeast will continue to ferment whatever sugars are available in the beer, which produces alcohol and carbon dioxide. Here, the alcohol is not a problem, but the carbon dioxide has the potential to be a serious problem. Excess carbon dioxide production will create excess pressure inside the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottles are strong and can hold a reasonable amount of pressure, but the yeast, given the opportunity, are perfectly happy producing enough carbon dioxide to cause explosions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hope for the best. Don't worry - it will all work out ok. But maybe not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store the bottles in such a way that if they start to explode that it is less catastrophic to the rest of your house. For example, sealed cartons will prevent flying glass and beer. Placing the carton in a plastic garbage bag will prevent the loose beer from soaking the carpet. Be aware that chain reactions are a thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open one of the bottles every couple of days, paying attention to whether or not there is excessive pressure. If there is, then you want to open all the bottles and relieve the pressure, re-capping the bottles. You reduce the risk of bombs, but may end up with under-carbonated beer (which is still consumable).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncap all bottles and put them back in your fermentation vessel, wait until fermentation is complete (measure it!), prime (again), and bottle (again). This is not ideal for the beer (oxidation, potential sanitation issues), but it will absolutely prevent bottle bombs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if a bottle doesn't explode while during conditioning, a bottle under stress can explode when it is jostled or bumped (e.g., while being placed in the refrigerator). An unhappy (and dangerous) surprise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3003" LastEditorUserId="3003" LastEditDate="2018-11-04T13:57:06.570" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T13:57:06.570" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-04T14:52:45.260" Score="1" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I’m using a high diastatic malt, was it still necessary to add some acid malt into the mash ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16761" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T13:21:14.343" Title="If I’m using a high diastatic malt, was it still necessary to add some acid malt into the mash?" Tags="|malt|mashing|efficiency|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23647" CreationDate="2018-11-04T15:38:27.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do this with some of my five gallon batches. I have a rather big deep sink. I buy a couple of bags of ice and put the whole pot in there and fill with ice and water. It cools down quickly enough. Works fine if you don't have access to a wort chiller. I have seen people in northern climates put their hot wort in the snow. Works well in Canada in the middle of the winter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T15:38:27.350" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-04T17:57:42.950" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading up on WLP648, but can't determine if this yeast will develop a sour beer on its own or if it requires something else to become properly sour aside from 3-6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read some contradictions, so wanted to confirm what to expect in terms of sourness from this yeast. My goal is to brew a proper sour beer, similar to a Geuze.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T20:03:41.583" Title="WLP648 does it make a sour?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-04T19:31:01.800" Score="3" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fairly new to cider making. I've made a gallon of cider from cooking apples, it's stopped bubbling and is still in the demijohn. The juice tasted great, but the cider is not amazing. I'm just wondering if I can blend some of the juice in when I bottle it so it's a bit more sweet and appley. How would I do this without causing exploding bottles, but still get a decent carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16762" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T20:24:53.603" Title="Can I blend cider and apple juice?" Tags="|carbonation|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23657" CreationDate="2018-11-04T20:03:41.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a look at the Milk the Funk Wiki: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Brettanomyces#Wyeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Brettanomyces#Wyeast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The vrai (true, in French) Brettanomyces bruxellensis Trois. The infamous strain used for all-Brettanomyces fermentations, has a robust, complex sour character with aromas of pear. Best used as a primary fermentation strain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question: yes, it sours your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T20:03:41.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-05T08:18:49.617" Score="5" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just made a batch of cider from 16kg (35 lbs) of apples. Based on various sources (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vigopresses.co.uk/AdditionalDepartments/Header-Content/Make-apple-juice/Where-to-start-2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;), I expected to extract about 8L (1.75 gal) of juice - however, I only managed to get about 4.5L (1 gal), which I feel is too little trade off for the cost of the apples, nevermind the time and effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My method: I first chopped the apples into quarters using a kitchen knife, then ran them through a fruit mill to create a pulp. The pulp was then pressed using a press (both the mill and press are similar to the ones depicted &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.manomano.co.uk/picking-and-harvesting-tools-3866?model_id=3474591&amp;amp;g=1&amp;amp;referer_id=685564&amp;amp;ach=a778d&amp;amp;achsqrt=d94f0&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KCQiA8f_eBRDcARIsAEKwRGc3QzmMKrnu6_62TQu8ocKhcsyGfp3KarmUwxdcpCCdp5FD0Zm3I8waAmy3EALw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; - apologies for the link to a commercial site but I don't have pictures readily at hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note: I thought the flesh of the apples seemed a little drier than some juicy eating apples I've had before. I'm wondering how much a role the type of apple play in the conversion ratio. The apples I got were a mix of &quot;seconds&quot; from a local orchard, mostly eating apples that were discarded due to cosmetic issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to get more juice out of the apples? I'm open to all suggestions but have a preference for non-electric means. I'm aiming to get closer to the 2/1 (kg/l) ratio that seems to be achievable using standard methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16579" LastEditorUserId="16579" LastEditDate="2018-11-05T08:26:08.967" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T13:58:33.107" Title="Not getting enough juice from my apples" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23668" CreationDate="2018-11-05T11:37:16.603" Score="5" ViewCount="842" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you measure alcohol content in a fermented drink without relying on measurements of gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say we have a bottle of water (pasteurized), add sugar (that has been treated to have no living organisms on it), and then a packet of 100% pure yeast. Then we can measure the gravity before and after to calculate how much alcohol &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; have been produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, consider the thought experiment where you do the same thing as above. But you're unsure what yeast actually does. Your hypothesis is that it produces alcohol, but you're unsure that maybe it produces something else. What instrument can you use to specifically measure alcohol % &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; indirectly be using knowledge of the metabolism of yeast. This includes capturing the C02 produced and calculating the amount of alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16765" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T17:10:28.213" Title="Measuring alcohol content" Tags="|yeast|measurements|alcohol|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23661" CreationDate="2018-11-05T12:58:01.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;vinometer&lt;/strong&gt; can mesure alcohol of a dry wine (all sugar needs to be fermented).  You would need to add some dye to see the results if you have a transparent liquid.  It can usually measure between 0 and 20%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T12:58:01.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23661" CreationDate="2018-11-05T16:58:19.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to do refractometry or hydrometry, your next best generic option would be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.umpqua.edu/images/areas-of-study/career-technical/viticulture-enology/downloads/conferences/technical-symposia/2014-dec-wine-chemistry/2014-ts-ethanol.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ebulliometry&lt;/a&gt;, which is basically measuring the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bubble_point&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bubble point&lt;/a&gt; of the liquid, where the bubble point &lt;a href=&quot;https://pubs.acs.org/doi/pdf/10.1021/ja02033a004&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;depends upon how much alcohol is there&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastEditorUserId="12926" LastEditDate="2018-11-05T18:12:12.263" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T18:12:12.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23660" CreationDate="2018-11-05T17:02:17.410" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add pectinase (also called pectic enzyme) to your crushed fruit / to your must to increase juice yield. You can find it at your local wine making / home brewing store or online, e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=pectinase&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;on amazon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pectinase is an enzyme that breaks down the pectin in the walls in fruit. It's frequently used in (fruit) wine making. Think of it as the opposite of adding pectin in jam making: you do want the jam to gel, but for wine making you want as much liquid as possible, and no gelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need about half a teaspoon per gallon (3.8 liters) of must. Stir the pectinase in the must before fermentation and let it sit for a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side effect, it can also reduce haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://winemakersacademy.com/pectic-enzymes-wine/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Winemaker's academy article&lt;/a&gt; or this &lt;a href=&quot;https://winemakermag.com/article/using-pectic-enzymes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article in the wine maker's magazine&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T17:02:17.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23658" CreationDate="2018-11-05T18:23:01.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bad news: it's not possible to get a carbonated sweet cider without kegging or forced carbonation.  The yeast is still active, so if you add juice at this point, the sugars in the added juice will just ferment and you're back to square one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're okay with a non-carbonated (still) cider, there are methods of halting the yeast (campden tablets, pasteurization) and then you can back-sweeten with juice to taste.  If you can force carbonate, you're fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're okay with dry &amp;amp; carbonated, you can add the typical amount of sugars when you bottle, to bottle-condition &amp;amp; carbonate.  You might be able to get some more appley flavor if you prime using apple juice concentrate instead of sugar - note: I haven't tried this, but it should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news: a disappointing cider will often improve with aging.  I find my ciders often taste fairly harsh early on, but they mellow out after a few months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Philippe makes an excellent point below - you can certainly add a non-fermentable sweetener!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastEditorUserId="15127" LastEditDate="2018-11-05T20:24:53.603" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T20:24:53.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23655" CreationDate="2018-11-05T20:18:46.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the purpose of the Acid Malt in the recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only it has high diastatic power, this malt also affect pH of the mash, so depending on the water pH, this malt could be useful...   According to : &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/A01b9mKR1M/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://beerandbrewing.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T20:18:46.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23649" CreationDate="2018-11-06T23:34:39.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your cider was flat when you drank it because it lost much of its CO2 when you were transferring it from the keg to the bottle, as evidenced by the foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gold standard for filling bottles from a keg without losing carbonation is a counter-pressure filler, which pressurizes the bottle with CO2 before filling it with beer, so that the CO2 stays in solution.  That's an equipment investment you'd want to make if you're commonly bottling entire batches or large portions thereof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fill bottles without a counter-pressure filler, first make sure your draft lines are balanced.  If you can pour a pint from the tap without excessive foam, then you can consider filling a bottle from that tap.  If not, then you need to either chill your keg and reduce the pressure to balance it with the resistance of your draft lines, or use longer lines (not really practical for 35 psi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your draft lines are balanced, you'll need to be a little more careful when filling a bottle as opposed to a pint glass.  A growler filler or even a length of 1/2&quot; inner diameter tubing slipped over the tap will help you fill the bottle smoothly, minimizing the amount of carbonation lost to agitation.  Fill the bottle as near to the top as you can, and cap it tightly and quickly.  It should hold carbonation like that for a week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Addendum on &quot;balance&quot;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having your draft lines balanced means they provide resistance to match the pressure in the keg, so that the beer/cider pours slowly and smoothly.  There are many questions on this site on the topic of balance and line length.  Here's some additional reading that will walk you through the calculations behind it: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kegworks.com/blog/determine-right-pressure-for-your-draft-beer-system/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.kegworks.com/blog/determine-right-pressure-for-your-draft-beer-system/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 35psi, you'd need about 50ft of 1/4&quot; vinyl tube to provide enough resistance.  Your valve &lt;strong&gt;might&lt;/strong&gt; be able to make up for a shorter length of tubing, but the turbulence around a partially open valve can also cause CO2 to come out of solution and create foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;colder liquids absorb CO2 more effectively&lt;/a&gt;, you can get the same volume in solution at a lower PSI.  That's why I recommend chilling your cider and reducing the pressure, so that you can get it out of the keg with a more reasonable amount of tubing.  This could also help if your cider truly hasn't carbonated properly yet, and it's not just CO2 loss during bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6057" LastEditorUserId="6057" LastEditDate="2018-11-07T19:13:59.157" LastActivityDate="2018-11-07T19:13:59.157" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23661" CreationDate="2018-11-08T18:01:32.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most reliable way to determine alcohol in &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; fermented drink, without the need for several thousand US dollars in equipment and some seriously technical laboratory procedures, is distillation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answers already given provide good solutions in certain circumstances, but both will give incorrect readings in solutions with significant amounts of dissolved substances (especially sugar), because these compounds alter the physical characteristics of the liquid which are being used to determine alcohol content. In general, these methods only apply directly to the behavior of pure mixtures of water and ethanol, and when you measure something else (e.g. any fermented drink) other dissolved substances (sugar, protein, organic acids) will skew the results (or, in other words, &lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; you're measuring a pure mixture of alcohol and water, any reading you get is merely an extrapolation, telling how the liquid you're measuring compares to a pure mixture's behavior).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Distillation, however, ensures that you are only measuring volatile substances and leaving behind non-volatile dissolved constituents. Ethanol and water are the most volatile substances you're likely to encounter in the largest quantities. Acetic acid (vinegar), which may be found in some fermented beverages is also mildly volatile (about half as much as water at distillation temperatures), but its density is very similar to water and can likely be ignored in all but the highest concentrations. Volatile acids (including acetic) may be neutralized with addition of a base (sodium hydroxide), which converts them to a non-volatile form and thus removes the error they may otherwise present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other substances are highly volatile but are almost always found in such minute quantities as to make them completely negligible (parts per billion for some).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not the most practical measurement to be making for the home fermenter (though you could probably get all the tools you'd need for a lab-grade distillation apparatus for a couple hundred US dollars), but it is the most accurate. Most other methods are still calibrated to distillation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.monashscientific.com.au/AlcoholDistillation.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one outline of a common method&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wetnewf.org/pdfs/Brewing_articles/distillation__.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another&lt;/a&gt;. You could also buy &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.anton-paar.com/us-en/snap-51.html?utm_source=google_shopping&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIntfk6a7F3gIVBUGGCh1OHQUPEAQYASABEgLAbvD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one of these&lt;/a&gt; if you have a large surplus of money on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the American Society of Brewing Chemists lists distillation as its &lt;a href=&quot;http://methods.asbcnet.org/summaries/beer-4.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;primary method for measuring alcohol content&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are, of course, many other methods used for high-accuracy alcohol determination. Generally, these methods involve pricy equipment and intricate sample preparation and measurement procedure, and for this reason, to me, lie outside of general home fermentation practice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Refractometry&lt;/strong&gt; - the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refractive_index&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;refractive index&lt;/a&gt; of a liquid is used along with specific gravity to determine alcohol content. A few issues include:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refractometer needs to be read in 'refractive index', not Brix or other commonly found units. Something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://refractometershop.com/collections/beer-wine/products/opti-digital-refractometer-brew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, or any other &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abbe_refractometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;abbe refractometer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This method generally uses a calibration curve that is based on the distillation method (the ASBC method mentions it may be necessary to build a calibration curve for &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; single type of beverage to be tested).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.misco.com/refractometer-support/refractometer-forum/refractometer-applications/item/refractometer-for-measuring-alcohol-in-finished-wine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;refractometers for measuring alcohol content directly&lt;/a&gt;, but which require the sample to be distilled first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Honestly this technique may be well within many home fermenters' limits of budget and patience, but may be inaccurate without a proper calibration curve (see above). Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.indexinstruments.com/media/1701/alcohol-by-volume-using-tmr-refractometer-.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sample procedure&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gas Chromatography&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS729US733&amp;amp;biw=1246&amp;amp;bih=591&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;ei=sanpW4vvBYmm5wKDvoX4Bw&amp;amp;q=gsa%20chromatograph&amp;amp;oq=gsa%20chromatograph&amp;amp;gs_l=psy-ab.3..0i13k1l7.1127004.1129200.0.1131176.17.17.0.0.0.0.164.1512.12j5.17.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.9.933...0.0.a8_t1d6DjpY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;you don't have to do much Googling&lt;/a&gt; to understand why this is out of the reach of most people. However if you have access to the equipment and methods, it's definitely a good method, even for discriminating and quantifying different kinds of alcohols (i.e. fusel alcohols)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HPLC (high performance liquid chromatography)&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS729US733&amp;amp;biw=1246&amp;amp;bih=591&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;ei=eK7pW_axEMaD5wK96qa4Cg&amp;amp;q=hplc&amp;amp;oq=hplc&amp;amp;gs_l=psy-ab.3..0l10.429039.429492.0.431243.4.4.0.0.0.0.84.226.3.3.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..1.3.225....0.yc66oyGyXuo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;same as above&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Enzymatic analysis&lt;/strong&gt; - in which alcohol is reduced by specific enzymes in a controlled environment and the results measured with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS729US733&amp;amp;biw=1246&amp;amp;bih=591&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;ei=KLDpW4OvFI7b5gKR9ZTYDQ&amp;amp;q=spectrophotometer&amp;amp;oq=spectrophotometer&amp;amp;gs_l=psy-ab.3..0l8.237495.239781.0.239917.17.9.0.8.8.0.93.657.9.9.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.17.694....0.8AgUurpl7co&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spectrophotometer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Proprietary methods&lt;/strong&gt; - such as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.anton-paar.com/us-en/products/details/alcolyzer-beer-analyzing-system/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anton Parr Alcolyzer&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://geneq.com/biotechnology/en/product/funke-gerber/automatic-beer-analyzer-6354&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;similar devices&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethanol concentration measurement is actually an active field of research, mostly in the pursuit of methods that can be automated and used in-line in large volume plants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while there are many highly accurate methods out there, I still believe distillation to be the best compromise between quality results and being within reach of the average 'highly-motivated' home fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2018-11-12T17:10:28.213" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T17:10:28.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23655" CreationDate="2018-11-08T18:44:17.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diastatic power refers to the enzymatic power of the malt itself – its ability to break down starches into even simpler fermentable sugars during the mashing process, but that's not related in any way on needing acid malt or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acid malt can be used to lower pH as Philippe said, but depending on the recipe you will not need it at all, like on beers with lots of dark and roasted malts that usually lower the pH by themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually do the pH correction with lactic acid instead of acid malt, so I mix all the malt into the water and wait 5 minutes before getting a pH read with the pHmeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15909" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T18:44:17.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23449" CreationDate="2018-11-08T18:56:13.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;NE IPAs are known to their high amount of late hopping, sometimes the use of proteins like oatmeal and wheat can help too, the proteins along with the hop oils creates chains of polifenols, that will cause the cloudy/hazy/turbid look, there's also some interaction with the yeast (low flocculation) and the lack of filtration, just putting lots of hops in a beer with low protein content will not make it hazy enough as most NE IPAs we see these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Styles are like guidelines to classify the beers, so since Heady Topper has 120 IBU and 8% abv (as ratebeer says) and there was no NE IPA style at the time (they were probably the first ones to brew it), they classified it correctly as a DIPA besides not making a clear beer as expected for a DIPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15909" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T18:56:13.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23673" CreationDate="2018-11-08T21:17:37.817" Score="5" ViewCount="3795" Body="&lt;p&gt;...and as a followup, how much should I care?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always used krausen presence as a rough indicator of fermentation vigor in primary.  But my current batch hardly has any, with a few days at never more than a half inch.  It's definitely going, with a bubble every few seconds from the airlock.  However, it was a slow start (almost 24 hrs before activity) and it's never felt like it was going too strong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it got me thinking: &lt;strong&gt;what exactly is krausen, and how reliable an indicator is it of fermentation health?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a matter of interest, this is what I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 gallons (ferm vessel is a 3-gal carboy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 lbs light DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Cascade - 30 min @ 160F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2/3 oz Cascade - 15 min @ 160F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US-05 (a full packet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;current temp is about 65F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some possibilities I can think of for why krausen is less on this batch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No boil = proteins coagulated differently than I'm used to&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I poured the wort through a strainer instead of siphoning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light &amp;amp; simple wort = less proteins than I'm used to?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow start = bad yeast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...though some people say US-05 can work slowly in general&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast is a living thing, thus every batch behaves differently, RDWHAHB.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastEditorUserId="15127" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T21:58:47.803" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T13:14:34.407" Title="What exactly is krausen (and why does this batch not have much)?" Tags="|beer|beginner|krausen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23661" CreationDate="2018-11-09T10:38:50.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO HPLC is the best method probably followed by spectroscopy. measuring ABV by distillation is &quot;indirect&quot; due to the formation of an azeotropic mixture between alcohol and water. They cannot be separated easily by distillation although one can do a &quot;back calculation&quot; to esttimate (quite accurately) the percentage of alcohol in the original mixture.HPLC actually separates the mixrture as does GC. The EtOH peak can be measured against a standard to accurately determine the amount of ethanol present. &#xA;I accept few people actually have GC or HPLC but if a chemist really wanted to analyse a simple ferment then chromatography (or alternatively spectroscopy) might be a preferred option. I am not sure why the Brewing chemists prefer distillation as a measurement method - maybe because it is simple and &quot;traditional&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T10:38:50.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23671" CreationDate="2018-11-09T13:14:34.407" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;During fermentation a thick layer of brown, gunky foam forms on top of the wort and sticks to the walls of the fermenter. This layer is known as the Krausen (from the German word &quot;Kräus&quot; which means &quot;curly&quot; or &quot;frizzy&quot;). This is why the high growth or attenuation phase is also sometimes also referred to as &quot;high Krausen&quot;. Even if no bubbles can be seen to&#xA;escape through the airlock (e.g. due to a gas leak in the fermenter) the presence of Krausen is a sure sign that the yeast is active and that fermentation is taking place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Krausen mainly consists of living and dead yeast cells, excess proteins and other byproducts of yeast growth, as well as some compounds derived from the hops. It has a nasty and often intensely bitter taste, which is why the wort should never be stirred at this point to prevent these flavours from ending up in the beer. Eventually the Krausen will settle out and become part of the gloopy sediment that collects at the bottom of the fermenter when the fermentation winds down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Krausen may be taken as an indicator of how vigorous the fermentation proceeds, because the amount of solids and semi-solid goop floats to the top of the fermenter is a function of the buoyancy these compounds receive as a result of released CO2. A slow fermentation produces a thinner layer of Krausen than a quick one does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Krausen thickness is also a function of wort viscosity. If your wort has a higher viscosity and/or a composition that creates bubbles with a higher surface tension, the Krausen material has a higher capacity of retaining released CO2. This is why a &quot;thin&quot; wort can have a thinner Krausen layer than a thick, gloopy wort even if both worts ferment with the same vigor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much you should care is a matter of opinion, I suppose. There  are several indicators  of fermentation, including Krausen development, CO2 escaping from the airlock and gravity attenuation. If any of these indicate you have a good fermentation, I wouldn't worry about what may affect the others. At the end your hydrometer is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; sure-fire way of measuring what goes on: fermentation is the conversion of sugar into alcohol which creates a corresponding gravity attenuation. So if your hydrometer tells you the gravity drops as per the expected attenuation, that's all you rally need to know as far as the progression of the fermentation is concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T13:14:34.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23655" CreationDate="2018-11-09T13:21:14.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using acidulated malt is never necessary per sé, unless you want to stick to the medieval German Reinheitsgebot. Lactic or phosporic acids are frequently used to correct the pH of the mash (especially when brewing light beer styles with high alkalinity water) but acid additions are prohibited by the Reinheitsgebot, which is why German brewers had to create a loophole in the regulations and came up with acidulated malt. An appropriate dose of lactic acid or phosphoric acid does exactly the same thing. Phosphoric acid is better than lactic because its flavour disappears into the malt phosphates and leaves no residual taste (unless you acidify too much and your beer becomes too sour, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other respondents above have already pointed out, mash pH correction has nothing to do with the malt's diastatic power (i.e. with its capacity to convert starches into sugars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T13:21:14.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6058" CreationDate="2018-11-10T03:35:51.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just saw this on HBT:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/guide-to-making-a-frozen-yeast-bank.35891/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/guide-to-making-a-frozen-yeast-bank.35891/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not drying yeasts but I think it accomplishes the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13916" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T03:35:51.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15845" CreationDate="2018-11-10T08:08:26.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am surprised no one mentioned sand. This is the oldest method in the book, throw some in there, mix with water and shake. Probably won't work that well on 10 years old deposits on the bottom of the bottles though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16560" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T08:08:26.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23682" CreationDate="2018-11-10T08:13:11.373" Score="5" ViewCount="1776" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of us don't have refrigerators for these 50 liter kegs and the CO2 tank. With due care not to expose the CO2 tank in direct sunlight, to what temperatures will these pressurized kegs be fine with 4% alcohol cider inside them ? How about 7% ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16560" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T12:12:25.190" Title="Storing the kegs outside during the winter" Tags="|keg|refrigeration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23689" CreationDate="2018-11-10T08:23:41.980" Score="2" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to some CO2 cylinder carbonation problems I have resorted to the desperate method of pouring sugar into the keg. Which is probably bad, as I have found out &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/23649/kegged-cider-co2-foam-not-much-sparkle-though&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; all I needed was lower temperatures and appropriate tubing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, my sugarized keg did not start fermenting due to the lowish temperatures in the room it is deposited in. I should mention that there was some carbonation in the keg when I have poured the sugar (I got a geyser out of it at pouring time). What should I best do now  ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) rack it and re-attempt the pressure-carbonation at lower temps ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) move the keg to higher temp, let it ferment the sugar and then&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;b1) move it to lower temps and leave it like that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;b2) rack it off the dead yeasts then move it to lower temps, and lose lots of acid in the process&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or else ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16560" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T04:23:19.407" Title="removing sugar / dead yeasts / residues from keg" Tags="|yeast|kegging|temperature|sugar|residual|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23681" CreationDate="2018-11-11T10:33:36.777" Score="3" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long has everyone's Barleywine taken to start its primary ferment after pitching yeast? Note: I didn't use a starter but did compensate by pitching two smack packs of Wyeast. I used English Ale 1098. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16782" LastActivityDate="2018-11-11T10:43:46.470" Title="How long has everyone's Barleywine taken to start its primary ferment after pitching yeast?" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23680" CreationDate="2018-11-11T10:43:46.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do make a starter for all my beers. My last brew was a barley wine/strong ale, for which I used dry yeast that I first hydrated, and then added to a small starter of 1.020 SG, and the day after again. I pitched it and I got a proper fermentation in less than six hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I have also pitched dry yeast immediately on top of wort and only got a fermentation going after 48 hrs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would suppose that using two such smack packs would need a time between 6 and 48 hrs before the fermentation has really started up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Signs on the wort of beginning fermentation are small islands of foam. If you have a properly locked down fermentation vessel, you can of course follow the pressure on the air lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-11-11T10:43:46.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23678" CreationDate="2018-11-11T14:48:03.907" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have all the math in front of me but a typical beer freezes in the mid 20's Fahrenheit. Lower alcohol might be 27F and higher might be 24F. There are a lot of different factors like the volume of liquid and wind and the alcohol. I would think that if you left a full keg out overnight and the temperatures dipped into the upper teens, you'd probably be ok with it not freezing completely through and busting the keg open. The larger the volume of liquid the longer the liquid will take a while to get to freezing. Long term storage outside is not recommended because of the swing in temperatures is not good for the quality. I store beer and wine outside all the time during the winter months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quora.com/How-can-you-calculate-a-beers-freezing-point&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a good discussion&lt;/a&gt; about the freezing point of beer and it applies here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T00:23:30.030" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T00:23:30.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23686" CreationDate="2018-11-11T17:22:40.017" Score="3" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just put the beer in the fridge  to chill it before I transfer to glass keg. My question about the 4 week of not having the beer not chill will  there be a problem drinking it? I did two fermentations, two weeks each. I mentioned about this beer &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/23632/maple-beer-i-notice-it-turn-cloudy-today&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; before (Maple Beer I notice it turn cloudy today).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate to have a party and we all get sick next week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P7RcX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P7RcX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Maple Draft Beer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16672" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-11-12T15:24:00.060" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T15:24:00.060" Title="Is beer still good after 4 weeks of fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-11T18:43:39.843" Score="2" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a gallon of very sweet kiwi wine. I've racked it twice already but after couple months in at it's current stage it still hasn't cleared. I want to let it sit in the carboy until it does clear but at the same time I don't want it to continue getting stronger (the wine is very sweet so there is plenty of sugar still to be eaten and for some reason the yeast seems to be pushing well beyond its nominal tolerance of 14% ABV).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it ok for me to stop the fermentation now (with campden tablets and Potassium Sorbate) but leave the wine in carboy for a few more months until it clears? Or will it spoil? If that's OK, should I sterilise with Campden tablets once more before bottling to prevent spoilage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16398" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T00:24:06.050" Title="Do I have to bottle my wine immediately after stopping the fermentation?" Tags="|wine|racking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23683" CreationDate="2018-11-12T00:22:16.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you had good sanitation practices during the production of the wort/beer, there should be no problem leaving the beer on the yeast for 4 weeks.  However, if the ambient temperature was hot during this time, it's not ideal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big problem is yeast autolysis.  This is when the yeast cells die, and break open, releasing off-flavour compounds into the beer.  These flavours are often described as &quot;meaty&quot; - like that of yeast extract spread.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the cooler the beer is kept, the less chance there is of autolysis (it also depends on pH).  If you're beer was kept cool during this time (e.g.: 4 weeks below 20C), the the risk of autolysis is very low, and it should be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have some kind of bacterial infection, the beer will be sour, and there may also be a white-ish film floating on top of the beer, called a &quot;pellicle&quot;.  You can google this term to see many photos. - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?client=ubuntu&amp;amp;channel=fs&amp;amp;q=beer+pellicle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?client=ubuntu&amp;amp;channel=fs&amp;amp;q=beer+pellicle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T00:22:16.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23615" CreationDate="2018-11-12T13:05:14.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an Italian made brew calculator, Calcoliamo Birra, app that calculates hops water absorption at 0.12 qt/oz which is about half a cup per ounce. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Last night I made a hop tea to increase the bitterness in a pilsner I wasn't satisfied with. I decided to collect some data for hops liquid absorption while I was at it. I boiled one ounce of Saaz pellets in a quart of water for 15 min, then pours the contents through a strainer lined with cheese cloth to filter the hops particles. I then let it sit until no more liquid was dripping. I then transferred the hops to a graduated measuring cup. The final volume was right at 1 cup maybe a little under. The 1 ounce of Saaz took up about a quarter of a cup, preboil. The hops absorbed approximately 3/4 of a cup of liquid in the 15 min boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastEditorUserId="16438" LastEditDate="2019-02-07T14:16:53.440" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T14:16:53.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23685" CreationDate="2018-11-12T13:49:02.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is how most wine is made and aged before it's bottled. It's not uncommon for red wines to sit in a barrel or a stainless tank for 2-3 years. As long as you keep the sulfite levels in the right range, you can keep it like that for literally years. As for sulfites before bottling, again you want them to be at a level (as high as 200ppm) to prevent the wine from fermenting anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T00:24:06.050" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T00:24:06.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23679" CreationDate="2018-11-13T04:23:19.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you put the correct amount of priming sugar into a keg for natural carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to keep it simple, I would simply close off the keg, and leave it somewhere to keep the yeast warm for 2 weeks.  This should ferment out the sugar, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; carbonate the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is to refrigerate for a while to drop-out the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, tap the keg.  The first few glasses will have most of the yeast from the bottom of the keg, but after that it should be mostly OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's your beverage, so if you want to decant it off the excess sugar, etc. etc. then do that instead.  But at least some of the sugar will have dissolved, and will re-ferment, even at low temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T04:23:19.407" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-13T05:48:43.157" Score="3" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mold on Cider is it unsafe?  It tasted good strained the mold (blueish) and boiled the cider for 20 min.  I plan to put the yeast and fruit in tommorrow.  Will the boil and yeast take out the mold bacteria?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16788" LastEditorUserId="16788" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T12:18:24.010" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T16:29:24.157" Title="Mold on Cider is it unsafe after boil" Tags="|cider|mold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23678" CreationDate="2018-11-13T12:12:25.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a formula used for determining the freezing point of a given beer in the brewing industry, taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=Q1r6xE6bE5MC&amp;amp;lpg=PR1&amp;amp;pg=PA49#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=freezing&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this book&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Freezing point(°C) = -(0.42 * ABW% + 0.04 * OG[°P] + 0.2)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily convert ABV to ABW by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ABW% = ABV% * 0.82&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can get a formula for which you only need OG and FG, by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ABW% = ~ 0.42 * (OG - FG[°P])&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T12:12:25.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23690" CreationDate="2018-11-13T19:55:46.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to know for sure.  There are many, many kinds of mold out there, some are harmless, and some are toxic.  &lt;strong&gt;I'm hoping someone can chime in who knows more about mold than I do&lt;/strong&gt;, but here are my thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 20-minute boil definitely killed the mold organisms.  Assuming it's in a sanitary container now, I wouldn't be concerned about the mold coming back.  (Note: mold is not the same as bacteria, and the yeast doesn't kill other organisms, just out-compete for food.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, the concern is whatever toxins the mold might have produced in the time before boiling.  I'm guessing the chance of toxicity is low, and it's possible that a long boil might have even denatured any toxins that are present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All told, chances are good that it's fine.  It's a good sign that it tasted okay (and that you're not sick!) ...but I did say &quot;chances are good&quot; and it's up to you whether to take the chance.  &lt;em&gt;If it were me, I'd probably dump it&lt;/em&gt;, but I'm sometimes over-cautious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T19:55:46.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23701" CreationDate="2018-11-14T00:54:49.337" Score="3" ViewCount="573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on my first try at a hop-forward beer.  I tasted my gravity sample last night after about 7 days in primary, expecting a nose full of juicy Cascade, and just got flat bitterness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I expect carbonation to bring out the hop aroma compounds more than what I'm tasting, or should I plan on dry hopping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I did, for a no-boil pale ale:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 gallons (ferm vessel is a 3-gal carboy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 lbs light DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 oz Cascade - 30 min @ 160F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2/3 oz Cascade - 15 min @ 160F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US-05&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: To anyone with a similar issue who finds this question in the future - I tasted another gravity sample about a week later and it was much improved.  My guess is the young, yeasty &quot;green&quot; flavor was hiding the hoppy goodness, even at the level of perceived aroma.  I ended up bottling without dry hopping, but we'll see how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastEditorUserId="15127" LastEditDate="2018-11-19T17:57:02.433" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T11:43:47.333" Title="Does carbonation increase hop aroma?" Tags="|beer|hops|aroma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-14T08:46:56.833" Score="2" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this is just my second year of home brewing cider from the apples in my property. Last year I had 16L and everything went as it should. Thus year though with a bumper crop I've ended up with 87L in 4 different batches and 3 of them have stopped fermenting at 1.016 after 2 and a half weeks and the 4th is still going at the moment  as it was started around a week and a half later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is, should I restart the fermenting process to get the sg levels closer to 1.000 or would my brew be ok to rack and bottle as is? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers in advance to anyone who can help.&#xA;Scott.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16794" LastActivityDate="2018-11-17T01:33:38.573" Title="cider stopped at 1.016! Is this ok?" Tags="|cider|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23690" CreationDate="2018-11-14T16:29:24.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toxins produced by fungi (mycotoxins) will often not be broken down by heat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have had a funky mould growing on your cider before fermentation, then I would probably ditch the whole lot and start again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mycotoxins can be exceedingly dangerous. This paper is relating to beer toxins but similar applies to cider: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23832360&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23832360&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T16:29:24.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23698" CreationDate="2018-11-14T21:09:46.707" Score="3" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, it seems that the old technique of adding a given amount of sugar to each bottle for priming isn't recommended anymore.  Instead, just about every source recommends boiling priming sugars in water and adding the cooled solution to the wort before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is this?&lt;/strong&gt;  It seems to me that by adding sugar to individual bottles, I don't have to worry about uneven carb levels from a non-uniform mixture of my priming solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasons I've thought of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Convenience: not having to measure out the sugar for 50 bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Convenience: not having to worry about bottles with different volumes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitation: the sugar gets pasteurized (is this really a concern?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other compelling reasons I haven't thought of, or does it just come down to convenience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: This motivation for this question was bottling small batches, in which priming just a few bottles is an equivalent amount of work to batch priming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastEditorUserId="15127" LastEditDate="2018-11-15T17:40:28.983" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T18:41:09.697" Title="Priming solution or add sugar to individual bottles?" Tags="|bottling|techniques|priming|beginner|small-batch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23697" CreationDate="2018-11-15T14:58:13.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do have the answer in your question. When brewing my first kit, I put the &lt;strong&gt;sugar in each bottle&lt;/strong&gt; and here is my experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have to measure sugar for each bottle, difficult and time consuming when using different sizes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did experience gushing when filling bottles that had sugar in them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did get a few bottles that where not as good (due to sugar not sanitized perhaps?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making a &lt;strong&gt;priming solution&lt;/strong&gt; is easier.  I have made more than 20 batches with this technique.  My experience :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faster calculation, just one quantity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding boiling water to sugar will kill bacteria and helps disolve the sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You still need to mix it well to ensure the whole batch is equally primed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faster bottling, no gushing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfering beer to bottling bucket also helps getting rid of sediments, less chances of getting those mixed while bottling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-11-15T18:41:09.697" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T18:41:09.697" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23700" CreationDate="2018-11-15T20:06:01.877" Score="3" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is simple, me and the wife love lager, I like a good 5% ABV but the wife is a light weight and likes a 3.5% ABV so the question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I brew a nice lager (similar to Heineken!) that is between 3.8% and 4%?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just finished brewing my first ever lager and it has a 4.45% ABV!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16799" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-11-15T20:17:56.580" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T20:17:56.580" Title="Brewing Low ABV Lager" Tags="|first-time-brewer|brewing|lager|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23699" CreationDate="2018-11-15T20:17:04.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many websites can provide recipes.  Take a look at some other posts like : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/20341/recipe-websites-catering-to-beginners&quot;&gt;Recipe websites catering to beginners?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since you already have a recipe, you just need to lower the ABV a little, take a look here:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/22110/low-abv-stout-recipe&quot;&gt;Low ABV stout recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you can add just add little more water (15% to 25%) to your recipe to achieve lower ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T20:17:04.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23694" CreationDate="2018-11-16T01:22:47.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was the sample you tasted very very cold?  Cold temperatures diminish the body's ability to perceive flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never found carbonation effects the hop aroma in a hugely significant way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy fix would be to add some cascade directly to the fermenter, leave for 3 days, then bottle.  This gives lots of hop aroma as primary fermentation is finished (so delicate aromas are not being driven off with the excess CO2), and the beer is a relatively hostile environment to any microorganisms on the hops (high alcohol, very low O2, low pH).  You might be able to leave the hops in for longer, but some types can give &quot;grassy&quot; flavours if left in for too long.  So I'm hesitant to recommend &quot;3-7 days&quot; in case you decided to use Saaz (for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you normally put your beer in a keg, wait until it's finished, then use a hop-sock or tea-infuser full of hops directly in the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-11-16T01:30:24.147" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T01:30:24.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13435" CreationDate="2018-11-16T20:07:28.530" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting a few raisins in a bottle before you cap it, will let you know when its carbonated as the raisins, will float to the top after. They sink at first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16803" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T20:07:28.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-16T21:25:41.237" Score="5" ViewCount="791" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a difference of around 3 gravity points (between primed and final gravity) will carbonate a beverage (yes, depending on style), how many gravity points will make a bottle bomb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, I'm not trying to make one - nor am I trying to trying to carb with residual sugar and the difference between measured and target gravity.  I'm just one more paranoid n00b, curious about the effects of missing my final gravity and wondering how much wiggle room there is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I'm bottling with 12oz reusable longnecks from LHBS, and storing at 68F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastEditorUserId="15127" LastEditDate="2018-11-16T22:12:38.690" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T11:52:13.753" Title="How many gravity points will explode a bottle?" Tags="|beer|carbonation|cider|final-gravity|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15820" CreationDate="2018-11-16T22:33:24.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say &quot;it depends&quot;.  If you are using corn sugar, dextrose, or any other simple sugar for priming - then no, you don't need to change anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using DME for priming or anything that would have &quot;unfermentable&quot; sugars in it, well - the saison yeast is just going to digest those things, meaning typical priming sugar calculators are going to be wrong, and you will get &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; more carbonation than expected.  You would possibly be at risk of bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8252" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T22:33:24.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23695" CreationDate="2018-11-16T23:15:10.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I'll take a stab at this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.016 does seem a bit high.  Not classic &quot;stuck fermentation&quot; high, though.  Cider is typically lacking in nutrients (&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/22733/does-cider-need-yeast-nutrient/22815#22815&quot;&gt;though this is not always the case&lt;/a&gt;)  and fermentation can be slow.  I typically leave my ciders for a month before doing anything with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be the yeast - yeast from a kit can be old or stressed - and could also depend on how much was pitched and if the juice was aerated prior to pitching.  Though since I'm guessing you pitched a packet of yeast for each batch and had the same results across batches, it wasn't a bad yeast packet.  Perhaps you've reached the attenuative properties of that yeast, but I doubt it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be unfermentable sugars or other compounds in the juice, but I doubt it would be enough for a FG of 1.016.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;waiting a little longer won't hurt anything - I'd recommend waiting another couple weeks for sure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can try to swirl the vessels to rouse the yeast, and maybe move them to a more consistently warm location (though 18C is likely warm enough)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check your hydrometer against some tap water - the paper thing can sometimes slide and give a bad reading.  I heard a story of a commercial meadery that threw away their house yeast strain because of what turned out to be a bad hydrometer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, you could:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try a forced fermentation test to gauge whether the yeast is done, or just stuck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pitch some fresh yeast, maybe from a starter (maybe yeast nutrient too, but I don't know what effect that will have mid-late fermentation, on the fermentation or the taste)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maybe even pitch some more attenuative yeast, like a champagne yeast.  You could even try this on just one batch of the four and make an experiment of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope some of this is useful - congratulations on 87L of harvest, I'm jealous!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: It also depends on what you want as a finished product.  Mainly, you just don't want bottle bombs.  But if you decide you like the taste a little sweet and don't want to carbonate, you could also stop the fermentation with sorbate, etc to be sure that it won't ferment any further.  Or, you could stop the fermentation and keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastEditorUserId="15127" LastEditDate="2018-11-17T01:33:38.573" LastActivityDate="2018-11-17T01:33:38.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-17T08:12:38.023" Score="3" ViewCount="2171" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing (pomegranate) wine with a Gay-Lussac hydrometer at my disposal. Reading prior to fermentation was way below the deeper (estimate -30 GL) and floats at 10 GL after fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vinometer, on the other hand, indicated 20 but that’s very unlikely using GV3 which is supposed to max at 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can’t find any clear info as to how I should measure alcohol content using the Gay-Lussac scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eUqp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eUqp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gay Lussac hydrometer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3813" LastEditorUserId="3813" LastEditDate="2018-11-23T05:29:19.953" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T05:29:19.953" Title="How to use a Gay-Lussac hydrometer" Tags="|fermentation|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23710" CreationDate="2018-11-17T17:51:50.080" Score="3" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed an oatmeal cream stout from the Mashmaker book (recipe here &lt;a href=&quot;https://growlermag.com/homebrew-recipe-oatmeal-cream-double-stout/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://growlermag.com/homebrew-recipe-oatmeal-cream-double-stout/&lt;/a&gt;) with the intention of adding some chocolate &amp;amp; hazelnut flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main difference initially is that I added some cacao nibs to the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hit the OG, however the FG has come out at 1.032, rather than the expected ~1.015...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had read the yeast I was using is highly flocculant, so I pitched some more after 2 weeks, to no avail. Fermentation schedule looked like - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 0 - 18C, pitched 1 smackpack 1318 London 3 yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 6 - 21C, roused yeast, gravity 1.032&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 13 - 21C, still 1.032, added 1 pack dry Garvin/Nottingham yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 17 - still 1.032&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness, I scaled this down to an 11L brew:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maris otter   2240g&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flaked Oats   263g&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roasted malt (blackprinz) 230g&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pale Chocolate    209g&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crystal 120 (Dark Crystal)    164g&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lactose   263g&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nugget @ 60min    16g&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cacao nibs (mash) 49g&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cacao nibs (secondary)    98g&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what might have gone wrong here - could the cacao nibs have somehow impacted the amount of fermentable sugers in the mash? (or are my sums just off..?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12945" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T03:05:23.403" Title="Low FG due to cacao nibs?" Tags="|stout|final-gravity|chocolate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23703" CreationDate="2018-11-18T02:53:03.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, 0.010 SG above terminal gravity is asking for bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T02:53:03.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23707" CreationDate="2018-11-18T02:59:07.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. I'm not aware of cacao nibs having any enzyme inhibiting abilities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either something else caused a less fermentable wort. Ie higher temp or low beta-amylase in malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, something caused yeast to give up on an otherwise fermentable wort.  Stress, low nutrients, low oxygen, low pitch etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: looking closer at the recipe I would NOT put a 1.015 target on it. Much closer to 1.030. &lt;strong&gt;I believe you are at terminal gravity with 1.032&lt;/strong&gt;. About 50-75% of your sugars from the specialty grains will not ferment. 100% of the Lactos will not ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-11-18T03:05:23.403" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T03:05:23.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23760" CreationDate="2018-11-19T08:58:11.913" Score="3" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have just had some cider fail in a co2 bulb pressurised  keg. All the pressure has gone. I don't have a lot of luck with cider. The last beer brew in same equipment late September went fine but it was warmer then. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After secondary ferm I put it in the garage to keep it away from children and my own temptation. Its 5 oC here at night (UK midlands), has the low temperature likely caused a problem ?  I'd like to know so I do not risk a second brew (not cider this time). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;garage is watertight, dry, cool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15602" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T09:03:59.400" Title="keeping beer in a garage" Tags="|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23711" CreationDate="2018-11-19T17:01:58.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;5ºC is a perfectly fine temperature to store beer at. You just need to make sure you have the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;right pressure&lt;/a&gt; (that graph is imperial but you can convert to metric).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience I have found the bulb pressured kegs (e.g. like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/King_Keg_Bottom_Tap_5_Gallon_Bulb_Pin_Valve.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;) to be completely and utterly useless. I tried to store beer in a keg like this 2 times, and both times the beer went flat. The second time I used silicone grease on all fittings, I kept replacing the CO2 bulb, I stored it at a steady temperature of 12ºC, and it still failed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I swiftly donated it to a charity shop and bought a real keg and dispense setup. I would suggest they are only useful for flat ciders or other drinks, maybe juice. I'm fairly sure that bulb pressured keg is the source of your problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My method was to build my own kegerator (using a damaged white-goods store for the fridge), but a cheaper option would be to buy a cornelius keg and dispense tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastEditorUserId="3032" LastEditDate="2018-11-19T17:24:33.603" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T17:24:33.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-19T19:20:06.240" Score="1" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;My primary fermentation and bottle conditioning temperatures are well controlled in a brewing fridge. Once bottles are conditioned / carbonation cycle complete I move them to crates which I store in my garage. The temperature here can vary from 15C / 58F to 30C / 86F in one day. The beer at least has some buffer and does in itself not reach these temperatures, but it will fluctuate. Will these ‘storage’ temperatures adversely affect my beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T21:51:23.773" Title="Storage Temperature" Tags="|temperature|bottle-conditioning|flavor|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23713" CreationDate="2018-11-20T02:21:01.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer should be stored cool.  Around 7°C (45°F), never colder than 3°C (37°F) [#1].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Bamforth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Charles Bamforth&lt;/a&gt; says that every extra 10°C (50°F) of temperature doubles the rate of beer aging.  So when your beer is sitting at 30°C it's aging very quickly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Limiting oxygen in the packaged beer will really help with beer preservation.  But if your weather gets really hot in summer, there's not a lot you can do without getting a second (or 3rd, 4th) refrigerator.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I briefly toyed with the idea of burying bottles deep in the back yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[#1] - &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/8-tips-for-successful-cellaring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://beerandbrewing.com/8-tips-for-successful-cellaring/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T21:51:23.773" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T21:51:23.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23694" CreationDate="2018-11-20T11:43:47.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no real relationship between carbonation levels and perceived hop aroma on the palate, to the best of my knowledge. Two factors may be relevant: very high levels of carbonation interfere with flavor perception (the more bubbles on the tongue, the less you can taste) and carbon dioxide gas escaping from the beer glass will carry off some hop aroma, a significant portion of which will reach the nose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you want more hop aroma, use more aroma hops. :) Dry hopping is good for aroma, hopping late in the boil or at flameout is good for flavor. Hops also improve head formation and retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T11:43:47.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23703" CreationDate="2018-11-20T11:52:13.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no hard and fast rule on when bottles will go bang. You can calculate the amount of CO2 produced in bottle fermentation from the gravity drop just like you can calculate the amount of alcohol produced, but when it goes bang depends on several other factors, of which the pressure rating of the bottle and the amount of head space are the two main ones. (Less head space means more pressure from the same amount of CO2 produced.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt, err on the side of caution when priming or bottling early, leave ample head space, and use heavy duty bottles that come with a decent pressure rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T11:52:13.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23706" CreationDate="2018-11-20T11:56:36.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the best of my knowledge, a Guy-Lussac hydrometer is intended for use with distilled alcohol. It will indicate 0-100% concentration of ethanol in water. For beer, wine, cider etc. you need a hydrometer that will give you the specific gravity (in kilograms per liter) before and after fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vinometer works on the basis of the viscosity of the wine and gives you an indication of the alcohol content of most wines but can be off if the wine is particularly syrupy due to back-sweetening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T11:56:36.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-20T14:26:43.390" Score="4" ViewCount="1006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve made ginger beer a few times. I usually make it with just fresh ginger and raw honey. Usually the I get well less than 2% ABV. &#xA;This last week though I used a different honey, sourced from a farm, it was really raw and had a distinctly wild honey smell. &#xA;After making the cordial and allowing to cool I mixed with water in my brewing vesseI and used 12g ~ 0.42 oz of bakers yeast, I made roughly 6GAL / 20L worth. &#xA;IG = 1.046 and after 4 days, SG was 1.014 !!&#xA;That’s 4,2% ABV, after 4 days controlled at 21C / 70F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Could Honey as the sugar base really be that effective to convert to alcohol that quickly? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can bakers yeast create that much alcohol? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this right, what is wronge where? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2022-04-14T11:36:43.543" LastActivityDate="2022-04-14T11:36:43.543" Title="Ginger Beer ABV from Bakers Yeast" Tags="|yeast|techniques|ginger-beer|honey|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23706" CreationDate="2018-11-20T20:20:53.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this information from the web, basically you should take a measure at 15°C.  The scale should indicate the alcohol content directly from 0 to 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A hydrometer scale calibrated so that readings are the percentage of ethanol (ethyl alcohol) by volume. Zero on the scale is the level to which the instrument sinks in pure water at 15°C, and 100 is the level to which it sinks in pure ethanol at 15°C. It differs from Tralles' scale only in the temperature at which the set points are defined. It was used in France.  The Gay Lussac scale replaced the Cartier scale in 1824.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vinometer, can only be used in a dry wine (fermented dry), if any residual sugar is left it won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T20:28:45.987" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T20:28:45.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23731" CreationDate="2018-11-20T21:25:51.773" Score="3" ViewCount="1027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/4599/12577&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/2677/12577&quot;&gt;How to brew all-grain indoors&lt;/a&gt;. It says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It gives a good rolling boil and doesn't go all floppy when it's hot. It has a 2kW element holds 29 litres&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's nice, about the volume I need, but it looks insulated. We'll be buying new gas stove to our apartment, preferably one with 5 burners. Sadly, most of them only have 3.8 kW on central burner. Of course, on a gas stove I can't use any insulation around my pot, it would be a fire hazard. 5kW stoves are max I could find, but are either expensive or aesthetically lacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that issues - is 3.8 kW enough? Is there a general way to calculate required power for given volume? Or pre-calculated tables for home brewers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T00:50:35.443" Title="How much power do I need on gas stove to boil 30 liters of wort under 30 minutes?" Tags="|equipment|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23719" CreationDate="2018-11-20T22:10:54.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sugars in honey are primarily fructose (38%) and glucose (32%).  These are simple sugars, so bakers yeast will happily ferment it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Dave mentioned in a comment, for a lot of intents and purposes (except actual &lt;em&gt;beer&lt;/em&gt; brewing) bakers yeast is identical to brewers yeast... and as I have posted before, it wasn't until single-cell yeast cultures were made by Emil Hansen in the 1890s that bakers yeast &lt;em&gt;was exactly&lt;/em&gt; brewers yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made mead with bakers yeast which reached ~10% AbV.  It can easily ferment to 8% AbV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect something went wrong with your first batch.  Maybe the yeast had poor viability, it became too cold, too hot, there was some anti-microbial preservative in the honey (that would be unusual I guess), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: since you are making a ginger-mead, maybe including some yeast nutrient would help fermentation.  Honey (and sugar-water) does not contain much in the way of minerals for optimal yeast health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2022-04-12T03:11:52.440" LastActivityDate="2022-04-12T03:11:52.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-20T23:48:38.773" Score="6" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been advised that controlling fermentation temperature is the first thing I should do to try and improve the quality of my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gather I can get a temperature controller (such as the one from Inkbird) and plug this into a cooling device - but what would this device be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen the following suggestions so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the fermenter in a water bath, possibly with a t shirt wrapped around it to act as a &quot;wick&quot; (I've seen this called swamp cooling). This may achieve lowering the temperature below ambient (although I don't know enough thermodynamics to understand why) but still offers no fine control - seems like all it achieves is an unknown decrease in mean temperature and maybe a little less fluctuation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a fridge. I've not been able to find a mini fridge which would fit more than a single demijohn in it. A full sized fridge is impractical and expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Invest &gt;£1000 in a sophisticated glycol cooling system from somewhere like Ss Brewtech.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does there exist a cooling solution which costs under £100 and is compact enough for use in shared accommodation?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16518" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T23:10:29.697" Title="Affordable cooling solutions" Tags="|equipment|fermentation-temperature|cooling|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23723" CreationDate="2018-11-21T03:06:43.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most often than not, from the &quot;overall temperature&quot;, beer quality depends on the temperature over the first 1-2 days of fermentation. Make sure you cool your wort well after boiling, and pitch the yeast at temperatures not higher than 16-18C.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;swamp cooler&quot; works because water evaporates from the wet cloth wrapped around the fermenter -- in the same way you feel cold when you perspire. You can measure the degree of temperature decrease if you use e.g. a stick-on thermometer. Overall it's not too bad a solution if you make esther-driven styles like english ales, or some belgians (as long as you pitch the yeast low).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inkbird is a bit too expensive for my taste, although I heard many good things about it. If you don't intend to put the thermosensor into wort/beer, a no name thermostat off eBay will do the job for less than 10$.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Search the second hand fridges market for a tall fridge without freezer. They are usually narrower than a regular fridge (mine was 50cm wide/deep, external), but you can still fit a single 20 liters fermenter in the bottom, and quite a few bottles on shelves. Last time I bought a fridge like that it costed $50. They are not too often on &quot;craigslist&quot; (or whatever is your local clone of it), but if they do exist in Australia, they should exist in UK, too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4a. I've seen projects where people made extensions of usual small bar fridges, so as to fit a 20l fermenter in. Just if you're handy enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Peltier elements. Again, if you're handy and with an engineering mind, a homegrown solution based on Peltier might do. Alternatively, there's a thing called Brewjacket (around $300+postage) using them. It is less efficient than a fridge (i.e. no lagers in Australian summer), but more or less does the job, occupies less space, and can be packed away. Might be an option for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To some extent it's possible to work around lack of cooling equipment. I mentioned a seasonality aspect - think about what beers you want to brew, and when, in the course of a year, you'd can brew them easier. Like, saisons in summer, lagers in winter. Check for yeast strains that would suit your fermentation capabilities. Make sure you pitch enough yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-11-23T14:53:06.893" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T14:53:06.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23719" CreationDate="2018-11-21T03:16:30.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bakers yeast can certainly create that much alcohol (and more) because it is the same kind of yeast as brewer's yeast (&lt;em&gt;S. cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt;). You mentioned in a comment that as far as you know, the honey was the only change in your usual process.  As we discussed in the comments, you might want to suspect the new honey could be perhaps adulterated with some kind of simple sugar like glucose, which is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.foodsafetymagazine.com/magazine-archive1/augustseptember-2009/advances-in-honey-adulteration-detection/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a serious issue&lt;/a&gt; in the honey industry; however, since the honey smelled pretty raw and wild to you, my guess is that this is not the issue here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best guess is that this new honey has a higher proportion of fermentable sugars than the honey you normally use.  If you look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://naldc.nal.usda.gov/download/CAT87201204/PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;composition of honey in the US&lt;/a&gt;, you can see (Table 1) the variability in the sugars from type-to-type.  If you get the chance to make another batch with honey from this farm, it would be very interesting to see whether you get another batch with the higher level of alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T03:16:30.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23723" CreationDate="2018-11-21T13:44:04.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Son of a Fermentation Chiller&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YSC3U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YSC3U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Son of a Fermentation Chiller&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look up &quot;son of a fermentation chiller&quot;. This is a two-chamber box made out of styrofoam insulation. It has a temperature controller and a fan. You load one chamber up with bottles of frozen water, and the temperature controller determines when to pump cold air into the brew chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made mine in an afternoon*, and it has no problem keeping the carboy at 19°C in 31°C ambient. I haven't tried for cooler. Change the ice once daily, or twice daily if the ambient temperature is hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video that shows the box: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mb226sT6qEc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mb226sT6qEc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here are some resources on building it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pimp-my-system/son-of-a-fermentation-chiller/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pimp-my-system/son-of-a-fermentation-chiller/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://home.roadrunner.com/~brewbeer/chiller/chiller.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://home.roadrunner.com/~brewbeer/chiller/chiller.PDF&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are cheaper temperature controllers, as well. The non-fancy word for this is &quot;thermostat&quot;, and thermostats are old as dirt and almost as cheap, but the best place to get one will depend on where you live. It would be best to get a thermostat that outputs 12 V so you can hook up a computer fan. Mine outputs mains voltage, so I hooked up an AC adapter and connected a fan to that. (I had to cleverly thread the wires through the weather stripping.) My thermostat also has a probe, which I tape to the side of the carboy or bucket for more accurate readings.&#xA;The only two important details that aren't visible in the picture are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The ice passage is split by a wall, but &lt;em&gt;the wall does not go all the way to the bottom of the chamber&lt;/em&gt;. That way, the air is forced to flow down through the ice, then up through more ice. (But it's okay to leave the ice chamber half empty.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The removable parts are held tight with pegs, preferably going into grommets or at least washers. There is foam-type weather stripping which the removable sheets will press into when attached.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Actually, it took me longer than an afternoon. I could not find the recommended 4'x8' insulation sheets, so I had to design something with different dimensions, as well as joining pieces of different insulation sheets edgewise. If you want easy, get the recommended insulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8426" LastEditorUserId="8426" LastEditDate="2018-11-29T03:03:14.197" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T03:03:14.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23706" CreationDate="2018-11-21T14:01:11.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately you can't easily do it, because your first measurement was so far off. If the hydrometer is way off the scale, you've gotta ignore the measurement, unless you have reason to believe the scale is linear and applicable outside the marked range. The problem is that the OG measurement matters more than the FG, assuming your yeast and technique are both good. (That may be a bad assumption, though I mean no offense, as I've made more bad mead than good. I'm still catching up.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that you can still do it. First, you need a table of ethanol/water ABV/density measurements, so you can convert your Gay-Lussac hydrometer readings to specific gravity. Next, you need to measure it and convert to SG. Then pour a sample of known volume (250 mL is the common convention), and boil it until the volume is reduced by half. Replace the lost volume with water, to the 250 mL you started with. Measure the SG again. The difference is due to ethanol having been replaced by water. Then you need to apply some calculations. The method is described more here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.meadmakr.com/how-to-determine-alcohol-by-volume/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.meadmakr.com/how-to-determine-alcohol-by-volume/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They link to a table and a formula. The formula is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spirit indication (SI) = (SG2 – SG1)*1000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;%ABV = (0.008032927443 * SI^2) + (0.6398537044 * SI) – 0.001184667159&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;musther.net has a handy calculator to assist with this computation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.musther.net/vinocalc.html#spiritindication&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.musther.net/vinocalc.html#spiritindication&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8426" LastEditorUserId="8426" LastEditDate="2018-11-23T01:20:35.853" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T01:20:35.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11588" CreationDate="2018-11-21T16:03:10.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think once you guys read any number of bio papers like Mechanisms of Yeast Flocculation: Comparison of Top- and Bottom-Fermenting Strains, by PASCALE B. DENGIS, L. R. NE´LISSEN, AND PAUL G. ROUXHET, you will realize that the mechanisms underlying cold crashing are probably actively regulated by yeast, and not passive processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean you are dealing with an organism that was found with 1.6 million SNPs (gene variants) in a sample of a thousand yeast cultures collected globally (Genome evolution across 1,011 Saccharomyces cerevisiae isolates, Nature 2018). Next to nothing passively 'just happens' to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16813" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T16:03:10.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23730" CreationDate="2018-11-21T20:26:04.957" Score="1" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;long story short - primed the keg with sugar, let it raise up to temperature, can't hear any gargling. IS my sugar carbonation taking place or all the old yeasts have died ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16560" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T12:17:48.850" Title="closed keg fermentation - is it taking place?" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23729" CreationDate="2018-11-21T22:21:40.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes in theory it is. but no real way to tell, until serving time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one way to tell is either hook up a regulator to it and get the pressure, or press the gas in valve without anything hooked up to see if its building up pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T22:21:40.433" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23721" CreationDate="2018-11-22T16:44:04.053" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a fairly straightforward calculation, actually.*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, calculate the total energy needed to heat up your volume of liquid, using the following equation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;E = Cp * M * dT&#xA;  where:&#xA;  E = energy required, in kilojoules (kJ)&#xA;  Cp = specific heat of liquid (kJ/kg/°C)&#xA;  M = mass of liquid (kg)&#xA;  dT = temperature change required (°C)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/thermo/spht.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;specific heat of water&lt;/a&gt; (and wort) is ~4.2 kJ/kg/°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll assume you are heating from &lt;em&gt;rougly&lt;/em&gt; mashing temperature (65°C) to boiling (i.e. dT above will be 100 - 65 = 35°C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a ballpark estimate, I'll say heat from the burner is delivered to the pot with ~75% efficiency (also accounting for constant heat loss to the environment)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the total energy you need to heat 30 kg of wort (since 1L = ~1kg) by 35°C would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;E = 4.2 kJ/kg/°C * 30 kg * 35°C&#xA;E = 4,410 kJ&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out how much power you need (Watts) you simply divide the total energy needed by the time desired (in seconds), since 1 Watt = 1 Joule per second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To heat up in 30 minutes (or 1,800 seconds):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P = 4,400 kJ / 1,800 sec&#xA;P = ~2.5 kW&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying the assumed efficiency:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P = 2.5 kW / 0.75&#xA;P = ~3.3 kW&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it looks like you'd be fine with this burner, though beware that my assumption about efficiency is entirely made up and may be very different in reality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* Sort of... See below&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a closer look I'll note that, while the above equation is entirely sound in principle, it doesn't necessarily apply well when considering open gas ranges. My experience is chiefly with closed, steam-heated systems, where heat transfer efficiencies are high and largely predictable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things that make this question difficult:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The kilowatt output rating of a gas burner has little to do with how much heat ends up in your pot/liquid. Looking around the internet, I've seen (mostly un-cited) claims that the amount of energy ending up in the cookware ends up being in the 25-40% range (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/efficient-cooking&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://homeenergypros.org/profiles/blogs/gas-vs-induction-cooking-energy-comparison?xg_source=activity&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2245893/how-efficient-are-gas-burners&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This efficiency will depend &lt;em&gt;greatly&lt;/em&gt; on your particular setup (the size of the pot in comparison to the burner, how high you run the burner, the environment in which you run it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The conditions for loss of heat energy will also vary greatly. Some very interesting discussions can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/heat-losses-while-boiling-a-pot-of-water.766820/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://aprovecho.org/?paybox_id=142&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. As mentioned therein, the majority of energy lost when heating an open pot of liquid is to evaporation (~80%). The obvious solution is to cover the pot while it's heating and uncover when you achieve a boil. Radiative heat loss will depend on the material of your pot, convective heat loss will depend on the temperature and movement of the ambient atmosphere, and the thickness of the pot itself probably has a small insulating effect. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's revisit it from a worst-case perspective: you still need a &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; ~2.5 kW of power to heat the liquid, assuming &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; heat loss whatsoever. The last paper I link above found a combined heat loss from radiation and convection in a 7 liter pot to be ~100 watts in a shiny metal pot. Scaling this heat loss proportional to the surface area of the given pot up to a 40L pot (~2.8 times more surface area) we might &lt;em&gt;very roughly&lt;/em&gt; assume a heat loss of 280 watts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you need 2.5 kW of power and your burner is making 3.8 kW, but we have to assume that only 25% of that is getting into the pot, while the rest is bleeding into the environment. That leaves less than 1 kW making it into your wort. Then, say you're losing .3 kW to radiation and convection (again, assuming you're covering your pot during heat-up). This leads to the conclusion that, in this worst-case-scenario, you'd be short on power by a factor of ~5 (at least in order to do this all in half an hour). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the real point is that this is a very complex question to answer with the level of specificity you may be hoping for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2018-11-23T00:50:35.443" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T00:50:35.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23729" CreationDate="2018-11-22T21:39:21.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't expect to hear anything.  It's a closed system, the CO2 is dissolving into the beer, not bubbling to the top - as there is no pressure difference for the bubbles to &quot;gurgle-into&quot; (your bottles don't gurgle right!?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be absolutely normal for this to work fine.  Even clear beers can have ~100 ppm of yeast cells.  So unless this beer was super-high gravity, and the yeast were at their alcohol limit, everything will be OK.  Even if it's at super high gravity, it will probably still work, just take a little longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T21:39:21.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-23T15:13:44.053" Score="1" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a strawberry mead that I am attempting to make sparkling. I added sugar drops to each bottle (Im bottling in 12 oz bottles) and after about a week it seems very carbonated but when I pop the cap off I have to do it slowly. I open it a bit, the mead bubbles up like a shaken up soda pop, and then I have to close the lid and let the bubbles subside before openning some more and starting the process over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me how to keep it from bubbling up when I open it??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16817" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T12:23:11.873" Title="My mead wont stay carbonated!" Tags="|carbonation|wine|mead|brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23733" CreationDate="2018-11-23T16:26:11.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are otherwise happy with the carbonation level of the mead, once it is capped and in the bottle your options are limited.  Chilling it before opening, and avoiding agitating it are about your only options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T16:26:11.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2018-11-26T11:17:03.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Infusing with Hops worked for me. i want to tell you how much and how i exactly solved the problem. result will be about 9% beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infuse each 250 ml of 80% alcohol with 1 oz of dried hops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let it soak for 3-5 days and then by using a fine mesh remove hops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;normal beer bottle size is 330 ml, so add 40 ml of infused alcohol to bottle and pour it up with sugar-free beer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cap the bottle and enjoy later!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16682" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T11:17:03.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23638" CreationDate="2018-11-26T17:42:19.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that my dry hop gets diluted if I purge a lot of CO2 through my keg. So you might try pushing a lot of CO2 through it and see if that removes the basil aromatics enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could try just adding some liquid lemon or lime to sour it, but whatever you decide to do - do a small sample and test it first to see how it tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastEditorUserId="16409" LastEditDate="2018-11-26T17:49:32.230" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T17:49:32.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23723" CreationDate="2018-11-26T23:57:58.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a salt water aquarium chiller in a water bath that I added glycerol and salt to, it works great at the 5 gallon scale. It is essentially a heat pump connected to a chiller probe. The probe is platinum and is connected to the compressor by a thick conductive wire and the heat pump passes air through itself and cools the probe. A controller monitors the temperature of the water bath and turns the heat pump on and off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An aquarium chiller cost about 150$ used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastEditorUserId="16409" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T00:07:03.403" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T00:07:03.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-27T10:32:11.550" Score="3" ViewCount="3054" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read here and there that it is ok to pitch your yeast at a high temperature, say 83°F?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing as it will take a considerably long time for the temperature to drop to an ambient 68°F then what about the esters or off flavours which may occur during the cooling down time ? Will there be any if using Safale 04?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T21:20:49.120" LastActivityDate="2022-06-07T19:37:27.480" Title="Yeast pitching temp/ ferment temp" Tags="|yeast|temperature|pitch|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23742" CreationDate="2018-11-27T12:04:57.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, no, that is not good practice. Always pitch relatively cool, and either keep the temperature stable, or only let it rise, but not too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yeast started at a certain temperature, then there is a big chance that it will stop fermenting if the temperature drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And 83F (28°C) is much too high to start. It will not kill your yeast, but make a whole lot of higher alcohols. And when the temperature drops, the yeast will probably stop early, and thus not ferment deep enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T12:04:57.327" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23742" CreationDate="2018-11-27T15:18:01.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do this all the time because I'm too lazy to wait for the last 10 degree or so when I cool my wort. I rehydrate my dry yeast in some sterile warm water or wort and after it's a nice slurry, I pitch it around 85f and never had a problem. The wort is usually cooled off before the beer really starts going. Or you could pitch some &lt;a href=&quot;https://omegayeast.com/yeast/norwegian-ales/hornindal-kveik&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Norwegian Kviek&lt;/a&gt; it actually likes temperatures in the 80s and 90s. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T15:18:01.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23723" CreationDate="2018-11-27T17:17:03.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a large rubbermaid tote, big enough to put a 6 gal bucket into, fill with water, and leave in a quiet corner. with or with out frozen water bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with out frozen water bottles, keeps fermentation temperature around 68F-70F..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the concept is making the thermal mass much bigger then just a bucket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using this for 2 summers, and ferment in the garage, which gets up to 100F air temp, and water temp at 70F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when done, I use it to store my bigger brew equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T17:17:03.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23742" CreationDate="2018-11-28T13:15:37.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often pitch the yeast as soon as I reach the highest temperature that is supported (depending on the yeast it can be around 25°C to 28°C).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many books and articles mention that the wort is most vulnerable when it is cooling down.  The heat no longer protects the wort and other bacteria could contaminate it, so it is better to pitch the yeast at high temperature rather than waiting hours before reaching the perfect temperature.  Honestly, I could not really tell the difference between a batch where I pitched at high or at a perfect temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the ideal is to get a wort chiller (or ice bath for smaller batches) so it does not take long to reach the perfect temperature.  When you become good at brewing and want to improve, little things like this can make a small difference.  Although sanitation and good raw materials are much more important in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question, read the maximum temperature supported on the yeast package.  Pitch at that temperature if you want, the off flavor will be minimal.  Safale s-04 mentions a maximum of 25°C (77°F), so I would follow the instructions.  If you think it would be too long to get the wort from 28°C to 25°C, I would think it is better to pitch at, lets say 27°C (close enough) rather than waiting one or two hours. The off flavors will be minimal and most will not notice the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T13:15:37.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23742" CreationDate="2018-11-28T18:28:08.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically when using S-04 (or most other English Ale yeasts) they are very sensitive to temperature drops. Other strains might tolerate starting so high, but the cooling wort is likely to send an English strain into hibernation early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While pitching S-04 at 80F may or may not effect viability; as the wort cools the yeast might go dormant.  Most English ale yeasts ferment quickly and then they want to drop out (flocculate).  If the temp of the wort is still &gt;75F when things get started the yeast will sense the dropping temperature on the way to ambient.  A drop in temp tends to signal English ale yeast to quit even if there is still sugar to ferment. For English Ale yeasts this can lead to stalled ferments.  I have seen this many times myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T18:28:08.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2018-11-28T23:39:29.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also check malt type. My Pils frequently heads for very low f.g's in the 1000 - 1002 range. Have to be careful if you want to try to keep the abv below 5% (which I do, generally). If anything, the malt ferments too cleanly (I will be heading up the temp range for future mashes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit / update - this stuff was on S-04 (not S-05) apologies.&#xA;55% Pale Ale, 35% Pils, 10% others (caramel malts), finished on 1.004 on this same yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16837" LastEditorUserId="17257" LastEditDate="2019-04-17T10:41:34.537" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T10:41:34.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2018-11-29T05:22:15.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What yeast were you using? Some, such as the 3711 mentioned earlier, are notorious for fermenting out very dry. Many of these are identified as var, diastaticus. These strains can convert longer chain sugars into shorter, more fermentable ones, which leaves very little in the wort that the yeast can't eat. My batches with 3711, regardless of OG, always end up around .5 degrees plato, which is about 1.002.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T05:22:15.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23751" CreationDate="2018-11-29T19:38:36.747" Score="3" ViewCount="1346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using less water than needed in my partial mash recipes. For a target of 8 gal into 2 (5 gal) fermenters, I have been using 3 (+1 gal sparge)  in the mash step and 2 gal for boiling bittering hops, then adding the mash and sparge water to the boil kettle and mixing in the extract and raising to boiling and adding late addition hops. Then I chill the concentrated wort to about 90 degr. F, measure the sp. gr. and add water to bring to target volume. (I know this is not the classic schedule, but I cannot think if a good reason why it shouldn't give quite similar results and it is faster.)  Yesterday I did this and got to a significantly higher OG than my target. I wanted to calculate the amount of water to add to the fermenters after splitting the volumes, since I was near the top of my kettle after adding water. My target was 1.060 so I set up an equation to solve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;8 gal * 1.076 = x_vol * 1.060&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a ridiculously low number (about 2 cups) and eventually figured how to do it correctly, but I thought I would just ask a question here so it could be on the record to the next person to benefit from my mistake. (I did a search to see if this had been addressed earlier but failed to find a duplicate.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16361" LastEditorUserId="16361" LastEditDate="2018-11-30T05:01:49.773" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T19:35:08.810" Title="How to calculate amount of water to add to lower OG to target" Tags="|specific-gravity|original-gravity|dilution|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23750" CreationDate="2018-11-30T01:38:43.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, so the formula for this is&#xA;C1V1 = C2V2&#xA;i.e. concentration of liquid 1 multiplied by the volume of liquid 1 is the same as the concentration of liquid 2 multiplied by the volume of liquid 2. Liquid 1 is your start point, liquid 2 is your end point. The premise is that whatever is expressed by the C variable can't change quantity by dilution or evaporation, it can only change concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can rearrange this into: (C1V1)/C2 = V2 or (C1V1)/V2 = C2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Units don't matter as long as they're the same on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&#xA;10L x 15*P, but you want the volume to be 15L: (10Lx15*P)/15L = 10*P will be the new gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 Gal at 1.060, but you want the gravity to be 1.050: (100*60)/50 = 120Gal will be the new volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 pound of sugar in 1 gallon of water yields a sp.gr. of 1.046. (A gallon of malt extract weighs about 10 pounds.) And the relationship of sp.gr to &quot;sugar&quot; is linear, so you could figure out what the concentration was originally in weight per volume if you wanted to. The important point to get is that the amount of dissolved solids in water is measured, not by the specific gravity, but rather by its difference from 1.000, which for solution with SG of 1.076 is 0.076. So it's the ratio of the deviations from 1 that matter in the calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastEditorUserId="16361" LastEditDate="2018-11-30T19:35:08.810" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T19:35:08.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23729" CreationDate="2018-11-30T12:17:48.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There won't be any gargling. You can always pull the PRV quickly to see if there is any pressure building up... but then you are losing CO2 that isn't going to make it into the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most kegs still need a blast of CO2 to properly seat the lid.  The slow rise in pressure while naturally carbonating often isn't enough to seat and seal the lid.  At this point it is possible that your CO2 has been escaping the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you have a CO2 tank and regulator based on your comments on a different answer.  Looks like you're going to have to naturally carbonate anyway, so why not pull on the PRV to see if there is any pressure.  Hook up your CO2 tank and blast in 20PSI of pressure to determine if the lid seals.  Then crank it back to your intended carbonation/serving pressure, chill the keg and wait a few days before checking again.  JUST MAKE SURE THE LID IS SEALED.  Otherwise you'll just bleed out all the CO2 from your tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T12:17:48.850" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23733" CreationDate="2018-11-30T12:23:11.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you are having nucleation issues and losing your carbonation when you open it up.  Chilling the bottles and pouring it off quickly will hopefully let you retain some carbonation.  Not much more you can do than that now that its bottled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd just learn from it and prepare for next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many meads will have dusty sediment in them post ferment.  If carbonating that can lead to issues with nucleation.  I'd recommend next time to rack too secondary for fruiting.  Then rack again to a clean fermentor to clear it still of the fruit debris.  Be very mindful when racking to a bottling bucket to keep any debris out.  This should vastly reduce the opportunity for nucleation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T12:23:11.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-30T16:42:44.753" Score="4" ViewCount="5423" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my understanding the starches in potatoes need to be gelated before they can be converted into simple sugars. This process is done through boiling, my concern is that I will loose valuable sugars into the boiling pot from this process before I add amylase enzyme into the mash. A possible solution I have come up with is, the pot that I boil in would be the same pot that I add my enzyme into after the water has cooled to a proper temperature. Can anyone foresee problems that would arise from this process, or have thoughts on a different route to achieve a good conversion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16842" OwnerDisplayName="T. Schill" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T05:27:34.167" Title="Converting potato starch in to sugars for brewing" Tags="|fermentation|beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23755" CreationDate="2018-11-30T18:21:54.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not lose sugar to the boil water, but it will lose starch, and yes you can  use the same water you boil the potatoes in to add the enzyme after it cools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The loss of starch to the water will be minimal and would not worry about it if you change the water out after boiling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help conversion, mashing the potatoes and making mashed potato will help the enzyme reach the starches. and using a brew bag will help you take remove potato chunks out of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in the end to make it simple, boil potatoes and make mashed potato, use BIAB and convert starches to sugars, remove and follow the rest of your procedure to ferment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2018-11-30T18:27:03.560" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T18:27:03.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23755" CreationDate="2018-12-02T00:25:05.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starch is stored as tightly packed granules of amylose and amylopectin, both long polymers (chains) of sugars. At room temperature only a small portion of the granules will become hydrated in water and so most of the sugar content will be inaccessible to enzymes that split the simple sugars off the amylose and amylopectin chains. Gelation is the loosening of the packed polymers and occurs at varying temperatures for various plants and seeds. Harold McGee's text &quot;On Food and Cooking&quot; give the gelation temp range of potato starch as 136-150 F (58-65 C). Neither raising the temperature to gelation range, nor boiling will reduce the sugar content of any starch, since the glycosidic (C-O-C) bonds are too strong for that to occur. What might happen however is that higher temperatures may denature the hydrolytic enzymes and reduce the natural ability to split off simple sugars from the chained together polymeric starch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you might not need to initially raise the temp to boiling starch unless you are doing so to prevent bacterial growth. You could conceivably have a mashing period and then raise the temp to sterilization temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://terpconnect.umd.edu/~nsw/ench485/lab5.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://terpconnect.umd.edu/~nsw/ench485/lab5.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16361" LastEditorUserId="16361" LastEditDate="2018-12-02T00:42:34.683" LastActivityDate="2018-12-02T00:42:34.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-02T15:31:36.107" Score="1" ViewCount="1137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried brewing beer without using malt extract?&#xA;It seems the question has been asked thousands of times, but the answers always center around &quot;It wouldn't be beer&quot; or &quot;trust me don't try it&quot;. That's the same as not having an answer.&#xA;There is proof that beer has been being made for at least 3800 years (1800 BC), and it's estimated possibly 8000 years. Only in the last 100 years could you go into a store and buy DME or LME, so almost every beer ever made was made without it (and in regions where barley wasn't common). So if you have a recipe, I'd love trying a batch that doesn't taste like a Crisp, Malty, and Hoppy assembly project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16849" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T15:34:10.917" Title="Ancient Recipe without Malt Extract?" Tags="|malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2018-12-13T14:45:38.193" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23711" CreationDate="2018-12-03T09:03:59.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;thanks @joe92 for that advice. I may yet buy a cornelius keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tracked down the problem to a poor seal in the stopper and a small crack in the seam of the barrel. I fixed it with some silicon sealant pushed hard into the crack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15602" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T09:03:59.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23759" CreationDate="2018-12-03T11:06:06.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chris Colby of &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beer and Wine Journal&lt;/a&gt; has provided an overview on how to brew &lt;a href=&quot;http://beerandwinejournal.com/get-happy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;old sumerian happy juice&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T11:06:06.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23755" CreationDate="2018-12-03T13:31:26.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roast/bake the potatoes.  No losses of starch (potential sugar) to the water.  I make a sweet potato amber ale and that's how I process/break down the potatoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T13:31:26.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23759" CreationDate="2018-12-03T15:34:10.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can make beer without malt extracts. Here are the terms and process in simple answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Malt Extracts are a concentrated sugar extracted from grains. Barley, rye and wheat usually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To extract sugars directly from malted grain and not use an extract is called &lt;strong&gt;All-Grain&lt;/strong&gt; brewing. Grain (malted barley, rye or wheat) are milled and mixed with water then held at specific temperatures for a time this is called a &lt;strong&gt;Mash&lt;/strong&gt;. This is done in a vessel called a &lt;strong&gt;Mash Tun&lt;/strong&gt;. The resulting sugar water called &lt;strong&gt;Wort&lt;/strong&gt; is then transfered to the boil kettle. At this point the brew process is the same as using malt extracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a simplified all-grain method that uses a bag instead of a Mash run. This is called Brew In A Bag &lt;strong&gt;(BIAB)&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make alcohol from any fermentable sugar. But it's technically not beer unless at least 50% of the fermentable comes from barley, rye or wheat.&#xA; This is using the BJCP guidlines as to what is beer. Bravarian law does not allow anything but grain, hops, yeast, water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T15:34:10.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-04T00:05:14.750" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few years ago I set off to turn my kitchen dry bar into a wet bar by routing beer from my kegerator to the taps 10 or so feet above.  I was advised against it by some employees at my local home brew store who said that I'll just end up with a lot of foamy warm beer.  As a result I built a bar on casters over a kegerator, which was admittedly pretty awesome, but still less integrated than I'd like and really bulky.  I just moved and I'd really like to build that actual bar I had been planning years ago.  Based on a 10 foot rise, and assuming that rise is 100% exposed I estimate a 4.3 psi pressure drop assuming there is no transfer pump being used.  Also, it appears about 1.8 ounces of beer would be exposed to warmer climates outside the kegerator.  possibly more due to horizontal runs but it will also be run in interstitial space where there is no heat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do real bars do it?  Do they actually use refrigerated lines and transfer pumps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if the runs are small? (assuming the runs are &amp;lt; 20')&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone see this being a problem if I use insulated beer line and just keep my serving PSI at ~15-16?  I generally serve in the low 40's (good beer doesn't need to be 32 degrees), so I need 15-16 psi to keep ~2.5 volumes over time anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12902" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T02:33:48.477" Title="Kegging and dispensing over distance/elevation using keg pressure or something else" Tags="|kegging|kegerator|serving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23764" CreationDate="2018-12-04T02:33:48.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commercially if the run is long they use pumps or push with beer gas (nitro blend) &#xA;Lines are always cooled. Usually with glycol lines run along with the beer lines then insulated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have a pretty good grasp on what you need for a 10ft rise. It's not out of reach for pushing with cO2 if you tune the run with the right line.  Flow control faucets are an other way to cheat a proper flow when line length and diameters are not ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping it cool. I would run your beer lines in large insulated 6-8in pvc pipe from the cooler. Then use a 1.5-2in hose up to the faucets. Use a fan to push cold, air from the cooler up to the faucets. Cold air returns to the cooler passing the beer lines keeping them cold. This is basically how commercial kegarators chill the tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T02:33:48.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23767" CreationDate="2018-12-04T10:53:54.177" Score="4" ViewCount="1543" Body="&lt;p&gt;After forgetting to place the yeast starter in the fridge overnight I placed it in the freezer this morning for a short while to do a quick cool crash. I misjudged the time and the water above the yeast cake has begun turning into a frozen slurry - though it is not completely frozen. I had a 1.1L starter in the freezer at -17ºC for roughly 1 and 3/4 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read on other questions that if frozen it will rupture cell walls and viability will have been seriously affected. Given that this did not completely freeze over am I OK to brew? At what point during freezing is yeast ruined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T15:59:30.563" Title="Can yeast survive being almost frozen?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23766" CreationDate="2018-12-04T15:59:30.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast can survive freezing.  You will have to bring the yeast back to room temperature without over heating them, so naturally let them warm up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12417" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T15:59:30.563" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-06T01:23:53.157" Score="3" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottled a batch of ale three weeks ago using bulk priming method. When there’s almost nothing left in a pale I’ve noticed that most of sugar didn’t dissolve staying at the bottom, which never happened before. I waited for three weeks, opened a bottle and, as I was expecting, it turned out absolutely flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is would it make sense to re-bottle this batch again while adding more priming sugar or is it simply cannot be saved? Any help or advice is highly appreciated. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16864" LastActivityDate="2018-12-09T02:38:48.507" Title="Can I add priming sugar second time after beer turned out flat?" Tags="|beer|bottling|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23507" CreationDate="2018-12-06T01:54:52.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you can buy beer illegally, buy a beer you like. It will still have some active yeast in the bottle. Then get a stir plate, add corn sugar, and cover the top with aluminum foil - but leave it open enough to allow air in around the edges. You can also heat up the bread yeast you have to inactivate it and add it to this solution as a nutrient booster. Every 18 hours the yeast will have fully metabolized the sugar - you can repeat this a couple of times to build up a population. Temperature here can be higher - up to 27 degrees C. You will need to decant the solution after you are finished. This can be done by sticking it in the fridge, letting the yeast settle then pouring off the liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See joe92's reply to my answer here for an easy stir plate build guide - &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/23367/alternative-to-stir-plate-for-yeast-starter-and-erlenmeyer-flask/23405#23405&quot;&gt;Alternative to stir plate for yeast starter (and erlenmeyer flask)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're done with fermentation, a bunch of yeast you can reuse will be left at the bottom. You can pitch fresh fermentables right on top of that cake. Just know that every part of this process - the grains/malts/sugars/temperatures the yeast is exposed to will eventually change the qualities of the yeast. So, if you want to keep a strain with consistent properties you will have to restart this process with the same beer from the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastEditorUserId="16409" LastEditDate="2018-12-06T02:18:19.560" LastActivityDate="2018-12-06T02:18:19.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23771" CreationDate="2018-12-06T02:23:18.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can, sugar won't dissolve easily at low temp.  Make a sugar solution first. To maximize the ratio of sugar to water - boil water then add 330 g sugar per 100 ml water. Cool down the solution and add 2 ml per bottle to get a 7 gram liquid sugar addition for priming. (7 grams was recomended below and will be about 3.3 volumes of CO2 at 70 degree storage temp). You can add up to 500 g per 100 ml but I used 330 as an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastEditorUserId="16409" LastEditDate="2018-12-09T02:38:48.507" LastActivityDate="2018-12-09T02:38:48.507" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21803" CreationDate="2018-12-07T12:31:05.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is probably in the overshoot. If you overshoot the temperature of the beta amylase you are not gonna get a good (planned/calculated) efficiency. This will not be fixed by a protein rest. We ran into the same problem when we did BIAB. What it really means is you need to get to know your setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you stir well while heating, and take regular temperature measurements. When you are close to your target temperature turn off the heat, stir for a while and measure. The water will heat faster than the grains so it will need some time to even out, also, the bottom of your pan will be hot and still pass some heat to the wort right after you turn of the fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We used to make sure we always measured the water temperature during the heating, and when that hit our target temperature we would turn off the heat and keep stirring. Measure the temperature again after stirring well and see if you need to heat some more. At some point we pretty much knew at what water temperature to turn the heat off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16688" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2018-12-07T13:40:16.960" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T13:40:16.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-07T17:16:42.810" Score="4" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s coming up on the third week of secondary for my first mead batch and my intention was to sterilize the yeast culture with campden tablets and potassium sorbate. I added the correct dose of each for a 5.5 gallon batch after the SG reached 1.002. I assumed this would be dry enough that it would halt further fermentation, but 48 hours later the airlock is still bubbling at a period of about 18.3 seconds. Shining a light through the must shows fine bubbles rising to the top. I’m going to take another SG reading soon to see if there’s been any further changes, but do you think this would be safe to backsweeten without serious complications? The ABV is approximately 13.66% and the yeast I’m using (Lalvin 71-B) has an alcohol tolerance of 14%. Are there any further precautions I can take such that I don’t just send this thing into tertiary fermentation after racking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16524" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T18:18:30.307" Title="Neutralizing yeast prior to backsweetening" Tags="|mead|campden|potassium-sorbate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23775" CreationDate="2018-12-07T18:18:30.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;CO2 bubbles doesn't necessarily mean that fermentation is ongoing.  Bubbles are not all released at once.  For example, with red wine kits, instructions often mention to stir for several minutes to release all bubbles before bottling.  You can try this, use a sanitized spoon to stir and help release all CO2 faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the yeast alcohol tolerance is not a precise thing. Even if tolerance is 14%, it doesn't mean it cannot reach 15 or 16%, some yeasts cells will slow down but it is not all or nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You better take additional SG readings, if the SG is stable for 3 days in a row, chances are that fermentation was stopped sucessfully.  Then go ahead and backsweeten.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T18:18:30.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23778" CreationDate="2018-12-08T17:40:02.753" Score="3" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not had time to get brew ready for Christmas, so I’m looking to at least fill my Corny kegs with some shop bought beer I.e. 5 litre keg or a box of cider, just so people have the novelty of serving it from the tap when they come over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should the procedure be? What are the risks? Will the beer just taste stale after a few days? Etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16192" LastActivityDate="2018-12-08T17:52:01.037" Title="How to fill a corny with shop bought mini-keg beer?" Tags="|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23777" CreationDate="2018-12-08T17:52:01.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to avoid as much oxygen as possible. So, something like a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.com/articles/closed-transfer-system/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;closed transfer system&lt;/a&gt;&quot; from the original container to your keg: flood your keg with CO2, transfer the beer via a tube, don't pour. You will lose some carbonation, but that you can add by force carbonating the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know for how long the beer will be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-12-08T17:52:01.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-08T18:47:54.337" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made one Brewferm beer before (the Grand Cru which turned out very well) and in an attempt to run before I could walk, when I came to make the other one I had (the Abdijbier) I thought it would be nice to replicate a buckwheat honey beer I had in Poland, so decided to exchange some of the sugar added at the fermentation stage for buckwheat honey.  I replaced about 1/3 - 1/4 of the sugar with honey and checked to make sure I had the correct OG as indicated on the instruction sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brew has been in a bucket with lid and airlock for a couple of weeks and I've just transferred it to a second bucket for clarification.  The SG is around 1.016 and there hasn't been much sign of bubbles over the last few days, so I'm not sure if it has reached a point where it is stuck and won't get to the recommended optimal bottling density of 1.010.  However, my main concern is that on tasting it, it is a bit bitter. Is it best just to leave it for a bit and see if it mellows, or could I add a bit more sugar at this stage to sweeten it up a bit? Any thoughts? Is it too early to panic, or the right time to act?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16867" LastActivityDate="2020-01-09T04:04:05.360" Title="Brewferm Abdijbier + buckwheat honey = a bit of a bitter flavour - Help please" Tags="|honey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-10T02:14:31.570" Score="2" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I forgot to pick up the hops from the homebrew store I was at and have the mashed wort ready to boil but no hops. Are there certain precautions or a certain way to store the unboiled wort until I pick them up tomorrow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16870" LastActivityDate="2018-12-10T15:08:54.803" Title="How to store wort without hops" Tags="|hops|wort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23783" CreationDate="2018-12-10T10:10:49.823" Score="2" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably a newbie minor detail but this matter is bothering me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the wort is boiling, due to natural convection, the tun should have a pretty homogeneous temperature. No problem here!&#xA;But while Mashing, where should I take my readings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should it be near the bottom of the tun, so I have the maximum temperature and don't over cook my wort?&#xA;Should it be on the top? Middle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16873" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T21:26:48.730" Title="Where should I take the temperature readings while mashing?" Tags="|temperature|mashing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23782" CreationDate="2018-12-10T14:32:50.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually stir the mash before checking the temperature.  If you stir it, wait one minute for the thermometer to adjust, you should get the same temperature anywhere in the mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2018-12-10T14:32:50.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23780" CreationDate="2018-12-10T15:08:54.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just keep it covered and boil again the next day. Hopefully some stray yeast floating around in the air doesn't start things, highly unlikely. Boiling will kill anything that would be floating around in the air. If you lost some volume to evaporation, you can always top up with more water while you are boiling or boiled water after you are done boiling. You should be GTG once you start boiling again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-12-10T15:08:54.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23790" CreationDate="2018-12-11T18:28:17.593" Score="3" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally I  am trying out my Maple Syrup Beer, its been sitting in the fridge in a glass keg for 2 months. First fermentation with brewing sugar and second fermentation with maple syrup. The beer tastes great and infused carbonized. I am wondering since I used 500 ml Maple syrup would the beer go bad sooner then brewing sugar?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PnLnJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PnLnJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16672" LastEditorUserId="16672" LastEditDate="2018-12-11T18:35:47.477" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T02:01:33.460" Title="How long would maple syrup beer be good for" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23787" CreationDate="2018-12-11T19:31:17.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maple syrup consists of sucrose. While fermenting, it is split up by the yeast into glucose (dextrose) and fructose, which are fermented: turned into alcohol and carbon dioxide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewing sugar is glucose (dextrose), which is also completely fermented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while these things look different, they are actually reduced to the same simple components which are fermented in the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means that your beer will keep as well made with maple sugar as with brewing sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-12-11T19:31:17.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-11T19:37:53.757" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious to hear everyone's take on the differences that they perceive in an espresso stout vs a coffee stout. Is this something that you would classify as a widely different beer or very similar? If you find them to be vastly different how would you go about adding your coffee to the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16842" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T04:13:46.267" Title="Comparing Espresso Stout to a Coffee Stout" Tags="|beer|brewing|coffee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23787" CreationDate="2018-12-11T19:50:28.377" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From experience with using maple syrup in secondary fermentation, the shelf life of the beer was unchanged from its normal life span. The same simple sugars will be consumed and the sugars that do not ferment out will remain in solution making for a sweeter beer in the end than if you had used just dextrose to secondary ferment with. This will also be slightly different depending on the grade of the maple syrup you used, the attached link will give some more insight on how to use other sources of sugar for secondary fermentation.I did find however that the aromatics from using maple in secondary were much greater that with used just as a flavor addition in a keg; and far greater than when maple syrup was used in just primary fermentation.&#xA;Cheers&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/article/sweetness-brewing-sugars-how-to-use-them/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/article/sweetness-brewing-sugars-how-to-use-them/&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16842" LastEditorUserId="16842" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T02:01:33.460" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T02:01:33.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23723" CreationDate="2018-12-13T07:22:29.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds strange but just putting your glass carboy directly on a thick concrete floor can have a cooling effect.  If you have any bare concrete floor inside the air conditioned part of your house, try putting your carboy on it.  That alone might be enough to reach your target temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fill your carboy with water, find it an out of the way spot with cold concrete beneath its base and then check its temperature regularly for a few days.  Stranger things have worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T07:22:29.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23798" CreationDate="2018-12-13T21:20:51.487" Score="0" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer; I am brewing predominantly ginger beer, and experimenting with some commercial yeasts in pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My batches of ginger beer are 1~2 gallons max, as it's consumed pretty quickly and I turnover the bottles/bug about once per month... sometimes twice. Up until now I've been using my homegrown ginger bug w/ naturally occurring yeast in my environment but I'd like to boost them a bit and try some commercial yeasts from a local home brew store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking at the yeast packet, it recommends 11.2g yeast per 20~30 liters of liquid. I did the math and came up with 1 gallon = 3.785 liters, so that means I should be using 2.12g of yeast per gallon, but that seems like a lot since my bug is good, but not great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just trying to boost the carbonation levels per batch and thinking 1g yeast in addition to my bug should be adequate, but how to measure for a single gram? I tried using my kitchen scale (which is supposed to measure in 1g increments) but could not get it to register just one gram. I'm afraid to eyeball it as I want to have a basis for feedback per batch as to how much yeast was too little/too much and/or adversely affecting flavor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15575" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T12:29:25.913" Title="Measuring yeast for pitching into very small batches" Tags="|yeast|ginger-beer|pitching|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-13T22:52:31.147" Score="0" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that the temp during fermentation can be as much as 8 deg F hotter than the ambient room temp. this I did not believe although I know that some brewers brew with their FV placed in a bath of colder H2O, However I decided to check this out,my results were that the temp of the ferment was 4 degrees F LOWER than the room ambient !!  ?? I am using SafAle T58, this is day 5, brew was 1043 at start.Can anyone shed any light on this please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T01:52:52.897" Title="fermenting temp" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-14T00:32:17.830" Score="0" ViewCount="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen this particular beverage and I want to brew this at home. How much fluid yeast do I need to collect to make 1 gallon of this particular high end brew? How do test for yeast content? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://orderyoni.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://orderyoni.com/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ARNex.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ARNex.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16887" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T02:11:45.733" Title="How much special yeast do I need?" Tags="|ingredients|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23793" CreationDate="2018-12-14T01:52:52.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you are taking the ambient room temp at ground level, and that you are taking a temp reading for the liquid at center mass. Surface temp of the carboy could be skewed by condensation on the side of the carboy. If your carboy is touching the ground you will lose some heat to the cold floor as well. On another note if the fermentation is on day 5 it make be complete. A bit more specific information would be useful to complete the assessment of the situation. For this yeast strain you have a safe temp range from 59 - 68 F, as long as you are fermenting in this range the yeast should produce normal esters for you. I wouldn't worry much about 4 F less if you are still within the safe range.&#xA;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16842" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T01:52:52.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23794" CreationDate="2018-12-14T02:11:45.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast is not what is special, it is naturally produced lactobacillus bacteria from the vagina. The beer is classified as a sour ale, and to culture this bacteria you would need to collect a sample and grow it in a aseptic environment to ensure your product will turn out as you want. This will be very difficult with out proper lab training or equipment. You could however inoculate some wort with this lactobacillus just from swabbing and placing the swab in a starter to give a rudimentary lactic acid source to sour the beer. I would not recommend doing this in your standard brewing equipment. &#xA;Good Luck&#xA;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16842" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T02:11:45.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23792" CreationDate="2018-12-14T12:29:13.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your scale may be capable of 1g increments but just not starting from zero.  Place something on the scale first that puts you in the middle of the scales reported range of operation.  Then weigh out 1 extra gram of yeast.  For instance put a can of soup or cup of water on the scale then balance whatever you were going to measure your yeast into on top of that.  Measure one additional gram with the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This only works if your scale can indeed weigh in 1 gram increments.  Otherwise you need a scale designed for weights at the low end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T12:29:13.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23792" CreationDate="2018-12-14T12:29:25.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bug is already doing the job all right, then your worst enemy - &lt;strong&gt;underpitching&lt;/strong&gt; - cannot get you. You also do not want to overpitch, to avoid changes in taste. Thus you have options as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use amount that does not register on your scales and hope it is under 1 gram.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy Jeweler's Scale with precision of 0.01g - available under $20. Scales with 0.1g precision are not significantly cheaper, so I wouldn't consider them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wildyeastblog.com/small-scale-thinking/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Instant yeast: 1 teaspoon = 3.1 grams; 1 gram = 0.32 (1/3) teaspoon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not need to be exact, so this may be good enough for you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can take 10g of yeast, add it to water to get 100g of solution. Use 10g of solution.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T12:29:25.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-14T12:34:18.290" Score="1" ViewCount="1210" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello I would want quick method if I use breed yeast the fermentation finish in 7-10 days. But its taste is terrible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know, between Champagne and Wine yeast - which one is faster ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16892" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-12-16T23:56:57.137" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T23:58:27.350" Title="Wine yeast or champagne yeast which will ferment quicker?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-01-03T20:49:02.877" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23782" CreationDate="2018-12-14T15:04:18.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have another answer. I've seen people doing it in many ways, and the only true rule I saw is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;consistency = good quality&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to do it the same way every time, and adjust your temperatures if you miss desired results, and pretty soon your beer will turn out the way you want it to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T15:04:18.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23779" CreationDate="2018-12-14T21:25:43.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a pre hopped can of malt..... So its probably the can of malt with hops adding more bitterness then expected. I would let it sit, and it should mellow out. if not you could add some un hopped wort.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I would do is let it sit and mellow out....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RDWHAHB&#xA;(relax, don't worry, have a home brew)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also from brewferm &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewferm beers are strong, aromatic beers and therefore usually require a longer maturation&#xA;time (6 to 8 weeks). Always respect this period. Your patience will be rewarded by incomparable beer quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2018-12-15T00:32:43.607" LastActivityDate="2018-12-15T00:32:43.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23782" CreationDate="2018-12-15T17:00:11.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mash temp can vary greatly and depends a lot on your mash tun geometry, the ambient temperature and your tun's insulation. It also depends on how you are delivering heat to the mash and how well you are circulating/stirring the mash to distribute the heat evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about a simple infusion type mash, the highest temp will always be in the geometric center of the grain bed (assuming you've first stirred it thoroughly). The mash will then cool most rapidly around the exterior where the heat can leak away the fastest. The most dramatic temp differences I've experienced in an infusion mash have been in square picnic coolers where the difference between the center and the corners (where there's a lot of surface area for the heat to leave) could be 5-8F lower than the center after just 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, if you have some sort of a direct heating element, then you want to measure your mash temps much closer to the heat source to avoid denaturing enzymes. And if you are direct heating AND recirculating, you'd best be served by TWO temp probes, one close to the heating source and one in the center of the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, one note on recirculating/stirring the mash. It can take a longer time than you think to even out the temps in a mash. The extreme case would be manually stirring a square picnic cooler--here a minimum of 5-7 minutes of thorough mixing seems absolutely necessary. The good news is that, once mixed, the mash simply cools off--so no new hot spots develop (which is really all you need be concerned about).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is, you want to try to monitor the temp of you mash's hottest portion which (at equilibrium) will be the CENTER.  However, if you have a heating element/direct fire you need to also play attention to the thermal effects of that localized source of heat, so a second temp probe is the best solution.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16703" LastEditorUserId="16703" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T21:26:48.730" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T21:26:48.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-16T10:57:19.283" Score="0" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;hello I am new in this kind of things. I would know if I use Bentonite it could change the taste and smell of yeast in the fermentation ?&#xA;I am gonna use breed yeast. I would quickly finish my product and drink&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16892" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2018-12-16T13:32:39.690" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T10:03:00.583" Title="Bentonite could change the yeast taste?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-16T14:29:34.730" Score="2" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a HERM system and brew all grain batches. A local brewer makes a very good orange colored all Mosaic IPA. I am curious how they achieve the color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16897" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T22:06:06.777" Title="What is the best way to achieve a true orange color using malt in a 5 gallon batch oh home brew" Tags="|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-16T15:45:18.727" Score="0" ViewCount="1241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used carbonation drops in the bottles on my first batch and worked well. On the next batch, I measured dry sugar into each bottle. Lot of foaming. I haven't tasted it yet. What can I expect? Also, how do I mix sugar into the whole batch without stirring up the sediment on the bottom?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16898" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T17:39:09.487" Title="Drops vs. sugar" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-01-03T20:48:10.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23805" CreationDate="2018-12-16T22:06:06.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Victory malt will give you a great orange color. &#xA;I have an IPA fermenting at the moment which looks awesome with 4.8% Victory, but could probably bump this up a little further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15449" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T22:06:06.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23806" CreationDate="2018-12-16T22:24:35.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbonation drops are mostly sugar (and glucose), so as long as the amount is the same it should carbonate the same.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer out of the fermenter typically has about 1 volume of carbon dioxide dissolved in it, left over from fermentation.  When you added the sugar-crystals, the thousands of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nucleation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nucleation points&lt;/a&gt; helped the gas be released quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there shouldn't be too much of an issue here.  The sugar falling in &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; have pulled a little oxygen into the beverage, but in-bottle-fermentation should clean up most (if not all) of this.   In future, add the sugar crystals before the beer (I assume beer, you don't say) in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://nationalhomebrew.com.au/brewers-library-beer-a-guide-to-bulk-priming&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bulk prime&lt;/a&gt;&quot; a full batch, a lot of people decant the beer into another vessel, typically something like a &quot;bottling bucket&quot;, leaving the yeast behind.  Enough sugar/honey/DME is dissolved into this for the whole batch at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-12-16T22:41:45.353" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T22:41:45.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23799" CreationDate="2018-12-16T22:40:41.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flavours from yeast are mostly generated during the initial part of fermentation, this is known as the &quot;lag phase&quot; - when the yeast is quickly multiplying.  Pitching too little yeast means the yeast has to reproduce many more times, resulting in a more significant yeast flavour.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question seems to suggest that the wine was only allowed 1 week of &quot;primary&quot; fermentation, whereas typically there's 1-2 weeks of &quot;secondary&quot; fermentation after this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's not exactly what the OP is asking, but use &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; wine yeast.  Ferment it at the warmer end of the yeast's specified temperature range.  With a well-prepared must it will normally finish &lt;em&gt;primary&lt;/em&gt; ferment in 5-7 days.  But then &lt;strong&gt;wait&lt;/strong&gt;!  Give the yeast another week (or 2) to finish up.  During this &lt;em&gt;secondary&lt;/em&gt; phase, the yeast is re-absorbing (or otherwise processing) many of the off flavours that are a normal by-product of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some suggestions to ensure a good ferment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure you use absolute best-practice sanitation procedures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerate your wine-must before pitching yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch an adequate amount of quality wine yeast (it depends on the yeast)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add some yeast nutrient&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the ferment in an appropriate temperature range for the yeast (If you don't know, try 18-22 degree C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some extra ways to get off flavours:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermenting too warm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not allowing the fermentaion to complete (where the yeast re-absorbs by-products)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enough oxygen initially (which the yeast use for re-production)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor sanitation, resulting in wild yeast and/or bacteria in the ferment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2018-12-16T23:58:27.350" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T23:58:27.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23789" CreationDate="2018-12-17T04:13:46.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Espresso is just a method of making coffee.  What if it was &quot;Drip Filter Coffee Stout&quot; ?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I have added coffee to a stout (and I've only done it once), I used pre-roated coffee beans, and coarsely crushed them in a mortar &amp;amp; pestle.  I put these into the secondary-phase of fermentation for 3 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... in beer, coffee is a fairly simple flavour addition.  I think the big thing, is not too add &lt;em&gt;too much&lt;/em&gt;, as it gets astringent quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T04:13:46.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23804" CreationDate="2018-12-17T09:20:03.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bentonite clay drops things from suspension. This includes yeast, so only use it when fermentation is finished. It also drops some bigger particles that can contribute to flavors and off flavors. It will not remove anything that is dissolved, so a lot of fermentation products will stay in your drink. This is not necessarily bad, I brewed pretty successful and tasty sahti-like beer using bread yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are a home brewer. Ingredients are cheap. Best you can do? Ferment as planned, use bentonite on half of your product, and then post your own answer with your results!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T09:20:03.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-17T15:00:09.680" Score="3" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to revive in my family one of regional traditions of Poland. It goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Serve wine from a wooden (usually oaken) barrel during baptism party of your child.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the party, fill it with vodka and bury it in soil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dig it out when the child is getting married and serve vodka from it during the wedding party.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't find any tips in the web and I've never talked to somebody that has tried this. I have some concerns regarding survival of the barrel for probably more than 20 years. &lt;strong&gt;Is it safe to assume that the barrel won't be damaged during such time by bacteria, worms, humidity or other factors?&lt;/strong&gt; If not, how can I minimize the risk? Would it help to use stronger alcohol, specific wood, impregnation or other means to preserve the valuable fluid from being wasted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16902" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T03:43:48.507" Title="Will a wooden barrel with alcohol survive in soil for quarter century?" Tags="|barrel|vodka|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23812" CreationDate="2018-12-17T19:08:13.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had a similar tradition in Balkans as well, we just used &quot;Rakija&quot; (grape moonshine) instead of Vodka. We used glass demijohns instead of oak casks when storing the spirit and burying it into the grounds. After 20 years the biggest problem was usually finding where demijohn was burried :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I do know for a fact that we did not use wooden barrels for this tradition because water levels are really high in my area and anything made of wood would rot in couple of months and would never survive many years. If you are to dig it too shallow then temperature differences summer/winter are going to be too spread and it is going to hurt the spirit. Don't know what is the situation in your area but since you are not living in the desert, moisture is probably going to damage your barrel over time. If you ever did any construction work and found a wodden piece in the ground and if it was there for couple of years it would be all rotten and wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impregnation would help but it would probably close the pores of your barrel and would prevent the barrel to &quot;breathe&quot; which would not allow the spirit to age properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess you want to proceed with this because of the tradition. My suggestion would be to dig a square hole in the ground (not too deep, not too shallow). Then, create a wodden casket of thick (maybe 5 cm) wooden plates and place the barrel into that casket. Make sure to remember where you burried it! This is going to be very similar to what you described, it just adds extra layer of protection to your barrel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to fill the barrel with spirit and place it in your basement. I know you are not supposed to &quot;open&quot; it before the wedding of your child but sampling the spirit once a year (christmas time maybe) would help you to judge the development and maybe react on time if something went wrong. Of course you would have to sustain yourself from drinking it so place it in a spot that is not easily reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T19:08:13.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6749" CreationDate="2018-12-17T22:47:25.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that historically there has been very little distinction in terms of style, &quot;Stout&quot; &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; just referring to a stronger beer, there's no real all-encompassing distinction between the two.  So the canonical answer is: &quot;There is technically No Difference&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you want to argue that somehow Stouts were somehow &lt;em&gt;bigger&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;stronger&lt;/em&gt;, one then needs to cherry-pick the results anyway. This is because generally English beers fell in strength due to tax increases from both WW1 &amp;amp; WW2.  When your average brown beer pre-war is commonly about 7+% AbV, how can a 6% brown beer be &quot;stout&quot; post-war?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately, most professional brewers I've listened to, and articles I've read, suggest that it's the inclusion of significant amounts of roasted barley{1} that, &lt;em&gt;in modern times&lt;/em&gt;,  has become the distinguishing feature of a stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where this leaves &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style12.php#1b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Robust Porter&lt;/a&gt;, I couldn't say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{1} Roasted Barley - not barley malt, just roasted &lt;em&gt;un&lt;/em&gt;-malted grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T22:47:25.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-18T01:52:42.243" Score="3" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is my understanding that during priming the yeast creates the necessary C02 for carbonation in the first 3 to 4 days and the C02 is then absorbed into the beer over the next 10 to 15 days.  If this is true, then does bottle temp matter that much after day 4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently ferment/prime in my living room, and then move my beer into the basement.  Do you foresee any issues if I move the beer after half a week?  Basement temp ranges from 50-75 degrees this time of year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16904" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T12:58:04.040" Title="Does bottle priming temp matter after 4 days?" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|storage|priming|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23815" CreationDate="2018-12-18T03:34:01.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That shouldn't cause a problem. Reducing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phadjustment.com/TArticles/Carbon_Dioxide.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;temperature is ideal because it will cause more CO2 to go into solution.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T03:34:01.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23812" CreationDate="2018-12-18T03:43:48.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem would come from the fungi in the soil decomposing the wood over time. The process of lignin degradation requires aerobic conditions, so if the wood were to be sealed with wax or a charring process on the exterior then that might work to prevent breakdown. Cedar wood is resistant to this sort of degradation naturally, but only because it contains anti-microbial poisons in the wood and therefore would be unfit for alcohol storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T03:43:48.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23820" CreationDate="2018-12-18T05:17:16.567" Score="3" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend gave me a 20l (5 gal) wooden barrel.  It had bourbon before, and was emptied two or three days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend said the barrel needs to be prevented from drying so that the wood doesn't contract and the barrel becomes leaky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have anything to put in the barrel, and I cannot brew till in 2 weeks.  My friend recommended putting it in shrink wrap, but that'd look ugly. (The barrel looks nice as is and I'd like to keep it in the living area.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guess I shouldn't fill it with water cause if I let water sit in the barrel it will soak out the flavors, which I'd dump with the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just let it dry out and rehydrate before use? If yes, how long before use should I put water in? 24h? 48h?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T13:25:03.550" Title="Wooden barrel treatment" Tags="|secondary|barrel|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23815" CreationDate="2018-12-18T12:58:04.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the yeast did their part during the first 4 days you should be fine.  I usually let bottles sit a week before letting them chill.  Before I was real comfortable with the timing of it I'd move one bottle to the fridge to chill overnight and sample it the next day.  If it was carbonated the way I expect then I would have no issues moving all the bottles to storage.  If not, I'd let them condition some more at the warmer temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T12:58:04.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23818" CreationDate="2018-12-18T13:25:03.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will not dry out in two week. It had hard alcohol in it which pretty much kills anything. When I empty wine barrels, we literally wash them out with hot water and drip dry for a couple days. We burn sulfur in them to sanitize them but that's wine and not hard alcohol. I have left wine barrels empty with a bung in them up to six months. So, in my expert opinion, 2 weeks is nothing. Just put something in the bung hole and you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T13:25:03.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23806" CreationDate="2018-12-18T17:39:09.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drops make it easy and simple but can get expensive. I used them for a hard cider so I knew exactly how much each bottle was getting so to not over-carbonate. It helped make sure each bottle was evenly primed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For normal ale and lager I prefer to mix 5oz of Priming Sugar (corn dextrose) with 1 cup water and add that mixture to my bottling bucket. Mix it together with your wort then bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both work. It really comes down to what works best for your budget and bottling process. Try both for yourself and compare the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16907" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T17:39:09.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23822" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-18T20:49:05.783" Score="1" ViewCount="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 gall plastic barrel 2&quot; cap with vent, you know the sort. never pressured up, and its a new barrel new cap,no leaks. I decided on fresh yeast from off my spin plate, looked fine enough, added another ounce of sugar, and a week later still no pressure.   Further test today and i got a fierce reaction  when i put half an ounce of sugar in.No bad smells,- What is happening here? Starsan was used throughout my sterilizing procedures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T21:04:11.437" Title="no prime up in kegging" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23822" CreationDate="2018-12-18T21:04:11.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you pour sugar into a CO2 solution it will bubble up as the sugar particles force some CO2 out of solution. A sugar addition should cause it to pressurize fast if there is a lot of yeast and no leaks in your system. One problem may be that yeast need oxygen to grow their population fast and not much is usually available at the end of a brew. Why did you need to add fresh yeast and how much did you add?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T21:04:11.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23723" CreationDate="2018-12-18T23:10:29.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased an old secondhand chest freezer for around $50 (NZ) and then got an STC-1000 temperature controller off AliExpress. I already had a thermal heating pad, so I wired that to the &quot;heat&quot; side of the STC-1000 and wired the freezer to the &quot;cool&quot; side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The STC-1000 sits outside the freezer but it's temperature probe and the heating pad are inside the freezer. It's configured to keep the temperature at 18C with a 1C tolerance - to save the compressor on the freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fermenter is of course also inside the freezer, with the lid closed. Some people drill holes in the freezer to let the wires through, but the lid seal sits over them okay so I didn't want to risk hitting the freezing coil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll take some pictures later - it's a simple, cheap setup&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16771" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T23:10:29.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12924" CreationDate="2018-12-19T05:05:16.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some experience brewing with s. boulardii. I started by making a mead with it, one gallon at a time. I found fermentation was starting very slowly at first and I was concerned that contaminent microbes were taking dominance. It turns out my city water needs to be boiled for at-least half an hour to eliminate the chloramines enough for brewing. Having done that, the yeast is consistently brewing 12 hours after pitching. I pasteurize the honey by pouring gently into the water as it cools after boiling without mixing. The density and viscosity of the honey prevents it from diffusing to the top and you get to keep the aromatic flavours. I use 750g of honey for a gallon. The result is a ~8% ABV beverage with a flavour similar to cider but without the acidic tartness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When trying to brew an all-grain blond ale with this yeast, I find it usually coming out tasting like a white beer and also having the same cloudiness. Would probably be a good choice for that style. Since it is my intention consume this as a probiotic beverage, I am happy with the cloudiness, as it assures me the live yeast is present in my glass. It seems it needs a few weeks to age out the aroma. Before that, the hops gives off a bit of a smell that is not what I'd call &quot;floral&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16909" LastActivityDate="2018-12-19T05:05:16.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23828" CreationDate="2018-12-19T20:19:53.460" Score="4" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;So here's my predicament: I've realized that my city water has low Chloride levels compared to the sulfates (i.e. the sulfate/chloride ratio is higher than ideal). Reading that this might be the case, I measured out the approx. amount of CaCl2 to be added to one of my already bottled beers. I poured the beer into a glass and added the salt. Waited for the salt to dissolve, and tasted the beer. This resulted in a much smoother, fuller body beer with less bitter-dry assertiveness in the finish. (beer types: Hefeweizen and Weizenbock)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have several batches of beer that are already bottled that could use some CaCl2. The CaCl2 from my local homebrew store appears to be anhydrous, so I can't simply measure out the appropriate amount of salt per bottle and add this as needed to each glass because the salt starts pulling water from the air and making a mess of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brings me to my question: Can I simply measure out the several separate amounts of the required CaCl2 additions per bottle and mix these with very small amounts of filtered water and store these in some small vials? This would allow me to some homebrew to some friends with a small vial of liquid salt addition to be added to the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this work, or am I changing the CaCl2 by adding water? (I'm no chemist) Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16487" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T15:25:29.260" Title="Salt additions to the glass" Tags="|ingredients|water|taste|chemistry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23826" CreationDate="2018-12-19T20:28:03.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard in some podcast that you can add your salt additions to the fermenter, so why not the bottled beer. When you bottle from a bottling bucket, maybe add the salts to this. Should be easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2018-12-19T20:28:03.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23826" CreationDate="2018-12-20T10:30:58.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably simpler to prepare a solution with CaCl2. For every gram of CaCl2, take 2 gram of distilled, demineralised or reverse osmosis water. Mix well, so you obtain a solution of 33% (W/W) CaCl2. Then, if you know the amount you used for adding to your bottles, take 3 times the amount of solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am pretty sure it will only be drops that you will need, I use the same solution for my brewing liquors, and the amount I need for 15 litre is about 3 ml.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T15:25:29.260" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T15:25:29.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23829" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-20T17:42:04.230" Score="5" ViewCount="1696" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edits are in bold italics&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first mead and I know I've made more than a few mistakes up to this point in the process, but I'm hoping for a Mead Doctor to roll in and tell me what I can do from here. I brewed a 5gal batch that seemed to be going well and had lots of bubbling in the blow off bucket for 2-4 days at the beginning, but I'm currently into day 32 of primary fermentation and instead of hitting around 1.000-1.010 I seem to have stalled out much higher at 1.063.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the pertinent info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Brew:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nov. 11, 2018&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Batch size: 5 gal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15lbs local raw honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lalvin D47: Two dry packs (10g)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG 1.100; Taken with floating hydrometer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Storage temp range due to home HVAC: 62-70F; 07:00-23:00 @70F, 23:00-07:00 @62F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerated prior to pitch with pure 02 and oxygen wand w/ 0.2 micron stone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermenter: 5gal glass carboy w/ blow-off hose into bucket o' sanitizer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Nutrient additions:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each mixed with ~40ml distilled water to facilitate pouring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 2: 1/2 tsp(~2g) Fermaid K; Oxygenate with pure O2 &amp;amp; stone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 3: 1/4 tsp(~1g) Fermaid K; Oxygenate with pure O2 &amp;amp; stone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 4: 1/4 tsp(~1g) Fermaid K; no stirring or O2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 5: 1/4 tsp(~1g) Fermaid K; no stirring or O2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 31: 1/4 tsp(~1g) Fermaid K; stirred to degas, no O2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;SG readings:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG 1.100; Taken with floating hydrometer, temp not recorded :( (likely 69F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;del&gt;All other readings taken with calibrated refractometer, temp @69F.&lt;/del&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 29 SG: 1.063 &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;- refractometer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 31 SG: 1.062 &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;- refractometer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Day 33 SG: 1.059 - refractometer and 1.030 - hydrometer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Day 38 SG: 1.057 - refractometer and 1.024 - hydrometer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick note about storage temp: I know 70F is at the top end of D47. It's winter here in the South, so it's getting cold(er). We keep the house at 70F most of the day, except at night where we let the temp drop to 62F before the heat kicks back on. My storage is in the center of the house, so it is always within one degree F of what the thermostat says; I check it often with a temp gun. Exceptions being if we have a hot day; thermostat is on HEAT right now so temps above the setting are ignored. I don't remember any exceptionally warm days in the last month, but maybe one or two. Based on my research I don't think the problem is temp; it's the South so a cold snap is unlikely and supposedly the worst that could happen with temp being too high is getting extra fusels from the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you have above are basically my notes, so there's little bits of info about how it was measured or whatever just in case it proves important. In case you were wondering, no I didn't add Go-Ferm and I was an idiot and didn't bother to re-hydrate my D47 before pitching it either; I just opened two dry packs and chucked them in. I know...shame upon me, my cow, my family.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you've noticed that I've only added Fermaid-K up to this point; it's all I have. You may also be wondering about the amount of Fermaid-K I've added up to this point; I AM TOO. I've looked and looked and I keep finding conflicting info on how much to add, and it's not like within a 25% difference. Some say to add what I have added, and some say to add double or triple that amount. I've also seen others say that if you add too much you may get an odd flavor(it's the Fermaid) or you may end up feeding competing organisms and make life hell for you and your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So on Dec 17, I took a reading and got 1.063. This is when I became concerned something may be wrong. I started reading up, trying to find out if I've stalled or what. I've seen the other posts on here, one of which was really close to mine, but didn't get a clear answer on what my additions should have been nor on what they should be NOW to try and restart it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a reading last night(Day 31) and got what I think was 1.062. You all know it can be difficult to read those tiny refractometer lines sometimes, so it could have also been willful delusion and it's just sitting at 1.063. After reading more online, I decided to try one of the suggestions and do another Fermaid-K addition to kick things off again. I added 1/4tsp(~1g) of Fermaid-K with ~30ml distilled water and gave it a good stir to degas, mix in the addition and get the yeast floating around again. No O2 was (intentionally) added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Update 12/21:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thanks to chthon, I took a new sample of the mead today and found that my refractometer was much more pessimistic than my hydrometer. Refractometer reading shows us at 1.059, which is good that's it's still dropping, but completely off-base because the hydrometer is showing us at 1.030. This is MUCH better than we thought, but still far above my target of 1.000-1.010 for this mead, and let me tell you, it is SWEET. I'm in cheap sugar wine territory at this point. So my questions below still stand. Also, the mead is still bubbling through the blow-off tube, though maybe once every 1.5-2.0 seconds.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Update 12/26:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Merry Christmas! SG seems to still be dropping, hooray! So either I panicked a little early, or the nutrient add on the Day 31 helped out. Either way, things are still rolling so I'll check it again next week to see if we get closer to our target. And lastly,&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; &lt;em&gt;can someone answer my questions around nutrient additions?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thanks again!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;===========&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mead Doctors:&lt;/strong&gt; mistakes were made and I want to learn from those, but what do I do about this right now? &lt;del&gt;How do I kick this off again so I can hit my target of 1.000-1.010?&lt;/del&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Should I add more nutrients?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;del&gt;Is she dead?&lt;/del&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second question: what is the correct addition of Fermaid-K to a basic mead like this?&lt;/strong&gt; I've gone with ~1g/1gal, but I've seen as high as 4g/1gal mentioned on this site. Maybe I've misunderstood total additions vs amount per add with four scheduled adds? I don't know. Help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last request: lay it on me. Let your wisdom flow forth and sear the shame of incomplete steps and shortcuts into my memory forever so that I may never fall prey to the temptation of laziness, nor the unfounded confidence of ignorance ever again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You guys are great, thanks for any input you can provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16912" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T00:15:58.160" Title="Did my mead stall? What can I do?" Tags="|mead|stuck-fermentation|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23831" CreationDate="2018-12-21T03:46:08.757" Score="6" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used tap water for my first batch and it came out with a little off taste and flavor that I referred to as a bandaid. I looked it up and found it could be the water I am using, are there any good suggestions as to what water is best for brewing? The quickest and easiest solutions will be the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16913" LastEditorUserId="16409" LastEditDate="2018-12-27T16:05:46.540" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T16:05:46.540" Title="water for brewing" Tags="|water|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23830" CreationDate="2018-12-21T13:16:46.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bandaid flavors in beer can come from a couple of sources. I wouldn't blame the water first, my guess it's &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brettanomyces&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brettanomyces&lt;/a&gt; which is a spoilage yeast. It can give a variety of flavors but one of the bad ones is bandaid flavors. It's a common problem in beer and wine where sanitation has not been the best. This is my first guess. Another source could be your water. &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/off-flavor-phenolic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Some people suggest&lt;/a&gt; that the chlorine in your water can produce a bandaid like flavor. The yeast reacts with phenols produced by the yeast and produces a chemical reminiscent of bandaids. To avoid this, either buy bottled water at your grocery store (those filling stations are cheap) or use campden tablets to neutralize the chlorine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T13:16:46.500" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23829" CreationDate="2018-12-21T14:12:03.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently suggest two things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is to check your SG ALSO with a hydrometer. If it has the same readings as your refractometer, there is definitely something off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, do you use a refractometer calculator to convert your readings? A refractometer works on the diffraction of light through a drop of fluid. There is a big difference between wort (water + sugars) and fermented fluid (wine/beer/mead). The produced alcohol changes the diffraction. Search for &quot;refractometer calculator&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T14:12:03.040" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-21T21:59:43.277" Score="2" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to drink a hard cider with a corn chip type aftertaste, my buddy made it and gave me some. When you take a sip it tastes great but then you taste a weird &quot;Frito&quot; taste like a corn chip. It's not unbearable but is it safe? He also dissolved cinnamon hearts into it which he says backsweetened it. Could hfcs in the cinnamon hearts have something to do with the taste? &#xA;I just want to know if I will get sick&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16916" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T11:50:04.320" Title="Is a Homebrew cider with a &quot;Frito&quot; aftertaste safe to drink?" Tags="|cider|aftertaste|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23980" CreationDate="2018-12-23T11:00:57.840" Score="3" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I brewed two batches of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/742223/christmas-ale-december-2018-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;copycat Christmas Ale&lt;/a&gt;. You can ignore the recipe's water adjustments, since I didn't do them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before fermenting, the wort smelled and tasted perfect - just the right amount of sugar and spice. I figured that it would turn out fantastic (both batches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first batch sat in the bottle for 2 weeks, and when I tasted I was quite disappointed. It had essentially no spice characteristic in smell or taste, and it had a slight band-aid smell, but much more noticeable in the taste. Still drinkable, but not as pleasant as one would hope. The second batch just finished primary fermentation and has a similar taste, but much less of the smell. Slightly band-aid-y flavor in the aftertaste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my ideas for what went wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Batch 1&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;completely forgot to sanitize the carboy (even though I did sanitize everything else) - I was drinking, and cooking for 8 people while I was making this beer. Not my best idea, so I'm guessing bacterial infection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pitched too much yeast; used about 5.5g for a 4L batch; the recommendation for Safale S-04 is 11.5g for 20-30L (so I may have overpitched by about 2-3x&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fermented at too high of a temperature (my apartment was roughly 22C/72F, but with the fermentation heat it probably was right at the 25C/77F yeast threshold)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chlorine in the water did not have time to dissipate (I did not adjust water chemistry, and did not leave the water overnight to let the chlorine evaporate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, batch 1 was a complete disaster on all fronts, so I'm not surprised it turned out the way it did. However, I tried to improve things for batch 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Batch 2&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fermented for about 12 hours at 22C/72F before I read up on too high of temperature potentially producing phenol alcohol; I immediately chilled my apartment down to a safer 18C/65F, right in the middle of the yeast's temperature range factoring in heat from fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pitched approximately 5.5g for an 8L batch (so a little closer to the guideline of 11.5g per 20L-30L), but still may have overpitched&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sanitized everything properly in batch 2, so I don't think it was bacterial infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For both batches, it could have been chlorine in the water, the fermentation temperature being too high (in batch 2 for 12 hours), that I overpitched the yeast, or that maybe even the spices didn't ferment well or that they were boiled at inappropriate times. I  just can't be sure. Last summer I made a beer with cinnamon and ginger with no issues, but I've added clove and nutmeg to this one - so maybe it could be that they give off some nasty compounds when boiled or fermented? Maybe it's just Safale S-04 that gives off this medicinal characteristic (as is desirable in some English ales, apparently), and over-pitching led to it being much more noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys have any ideas as to what went wrong? I am tempted to rule out bacteria simply because I made sure to properly sanitize everything in batch 2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16151" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T12:25:59.880" Title="Help me debug my Christmas Ale band-aid flavor" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|water|off-flavor|bacteria|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23834" CreationDate="2018-12-23T13:33:34.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/23830/water-for-brewing&quot;&gt;See the question I just answered 2 days ago about a similar issue.&lt;/a&gt; In your case I would say it's your water. Use Campden tablets, get a good filter or buy reverse osmosis water at your local grocery store at one of those filling stations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2019-04-12T12:25:59.880" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T12:25:59.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-23T18:36:59.970" Score="1" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm poured the keg remnants from a pressurized ferment into a beaker to let it settle out but I'm puzzled by the layers I'm seeing.  From a typical non-pressure ferment, you see (from the bottom up), trub/hops, yeast and then beer/amber liquid--like you see here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://vintage63brewing.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/pre-wash-settling-out2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://vintage63brewing.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/pre-wash-settling-out2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pre-Wash Collection from Standard Ferment&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here's what I'm seeing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Jojh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Jojh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of Beaker With Layers Settling&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the foam was the result of releasing the last bit of pressure that had built up (probably a few psi) which foamed up the contents.  The foam looks pretty yeasty but the yeast is usually not on top.  It's not quite visible in the picture but it does look like there is a shallow layer settling out/building up at the base of the bottom layer.  Should I assume the bottom layer will ultimately end up as a layer of trub/hops, and the yeast, and ignore that yeasty looking top layer?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is what I'm seeing typical for a pressurized ferment? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. Video clip of the bioactivty: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/HteIY0FHKeU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yeast Harvest Bioactivity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16922" LastEditorUserId="16922" LastEditDate="2018-12-24T01:50:45.427" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T02:01:20.257" Title="Pressurized Ferment Yeast Harvest -- what are these layers?" Tags="|yeast|trub|harvest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23836" CreationDate="2018-12-23T20:00:00.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging by the light creamy color of your yeast/trub layer, it looks like you harvested very clean yeast, with very little trub mixed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure where that creamy foaming comes from, as you said probably from the carbonation. I've had harvested and stored Belgian yeast starting to float when removing from the fridge within 5-10 minutes, and even bulging and pushing out from under the lid after 2 months in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16923" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T20:00:00.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-24T02:49:36.110" Score="1" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need help. First time brewing in my life and I made some mistakes as expected. This was a 1 gallon brew kit. First indication something was wrong was after pouring the wort into the 1 gallon fermenter I maybe had half a gallon of actually wort probably due to the boil temperature. I filled with water as necessary. I then attempted to created a blow off tube. I had troubles with the blow off end staying in the bowl and coming out and the end that was in the fermenter was pushed into the beer accidentally. I finally switched to an airlock but the amount of alcohol in the fermenter has vastly decreased to maybe a quarter of a gallon even in there. Can you help with anything or is this too far gone? &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRp0L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16925" LastEditorUserId="16925" LastEditDate="2018-12-24T20:23:35.717" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T19:57:46.180" Title="Fermentation first time" Tags="|fermentation|first-time-brewer|stuck-fermentation|first-time|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22102" CreationDate="2018-12-24T07:37:21.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it ain't broke, don't fix it!  I had a similar experience to yours.  I started brewing w/ very cheap Munton's yeast (was widely available and commonly used at the time).  It did the job well.  Later on, I tried some of the more expensive yeasts.  It was a fun experiment and those yeasts did yield slightly different results, but I went back to the Munton's and like the results just as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now have some DADY myself and may try it for beer too.  I think the best method is as you suggested, doing a side by side comparison with all things equal.  It's my belief that most people will come to the same conclusion.  While various yeasts will change the final result slightly, it may be hard to declare one clearly superior to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16926" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T07:37:21.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23839" CreationDate="2018-12-24T09:45:11.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your wort has been reduced in volume due to water boiling off, adding water up to the original volume should not reduce your alcohol level as the amount of fermentable sugars remains the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Airlocks vs. blowoff tubes shouldn't be an issue, either. If the level in your fermenter has decreased this can't be due to airlock issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm not sure what has gone wrong but I can't see it being related to the issues you mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T09:45:11.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23834" CreationDate="2018-12-24T09:50:22.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Band aid flavours are related to phenols, which can  only have a few possible causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chlorine compounds in the wort (either residue from cleaning or as a result of using chlorinated tap water) may produce TCP (tri-chlorophenol) during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Excessive levels of tanning may have been extracted from the grain husks (tannin &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; a phenol) due to oversteeping, oversparging, too high a steeping or mashing temperature or too high a pH level in the mash/steep.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You either have used a POV-positive yeast that produces spicy phenols as part of its normal flavour profile (which, in excess, lead to band aid flavours) and for some reason it has produced too much of this, or you have an infection with a wild yeast strain. Wild yeasts often produce phenols.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there is no way to remove excessive phenol levels from the beer once formed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T09:50:22.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23833" CreationDate="2018-12-24T09:54:27.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Home brewed beer and ciders are almost always safe to drink. Methanol (which is what some people are afraid of) can't be produced by the yeast in significant quantities, because the yeast simply doesn't have that ability. Just like all other food products, bacterial spoilage may make it go off to the point where consuming the product can be a health hazard, but in this case (like with spoilt food) it will smell and taste horrible. Molds and such are also obvious if they occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all other cases, if you did not put anything harmful into the cider or beer yourself, it will be safe to drink. It may taste weird but it won't harm you. (Unless you over-indulge, of course, but that's another matter.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T09:54:27.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-25T00:24:07.277" Score="1" ViewCount="642" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been making ginger soda. But after fermenting, the soda was very viscous and slimy in some of the batches. It usually turns out fine but this happened multiple times inconsistently with different starts. Does anybody know what may be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe used:&#xA;Ginger Bug (ginger, sugar, and water)&#xA;Strong ginger tea&#xA;dilute with water and add sugar to 6-7 brix sweetness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i usually ferment until ~5 brix before putting in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so really the only things in this are ginger, sugar and water, plus whatever bugs might be on the ginger skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the first time i thought it might be a contamination so i made a new ginger bug start. i've also moved since then with another new start. but unless i'm contaminating it in the same way every time in different environments, i don't know how i'm getting the same gelatinous consistency, so i think it might be specific to the bug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i do make sourdough as well, but not usually at the same time, and i don't have any other ferments in the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16929" LastEditorUserId="16929" LastEditDate="2018-12-26T02:36:58.617" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T02:36:58.617" Title="Ginger bug causing a gelatinous soda" Tags="|fermentation|ginger|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23848" CreationDate="2018-12-25T20:09:16.737" Score="2" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a copy of the last (4th) edition of &quot;How to Brew&quot; by John Palmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the book, DME yields 42 PPG (Points per Pound per Gallon), while LME yields 36 PPG. This is an estimation since the exact numbers depend on the extract. As a consequence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LME = (42/36) * DME = 1.1667 * DME&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not far from what is stated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/1350/16930&quot;&gt;the most voted answer here on this topic&lt;/a&gt;. The starting PPG estimation there is different so it all makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later in the book, in his Porter recipe, Palmer says to either use 6 lbs of DME or 7.6 lbs of LME, but 1.1667 * 6 = 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though it isn't a big difference, I'm trying to understand how these things work: is there something more that must be taken into account, am I missing something or it's just a typo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16930" LastEditorUserId="16930" LastEditDate="2018-12-26T15:27:15.407" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T16:39:23.387" Title="Where does this DME/LME come from in &quot;How to Brew&quot;?" Tags="|extract|conversion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-26T11:46:56.610" Score="3" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frankly only shops I have visited fail completely in providing an indication about what exactly they are selling when it comes to keg fittings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/23497/14242&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; to another question, which was asking less generally then this, also about the fittings for keg connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: What are the different standards related to those fittings, what, and more over how can I measure which fitting I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus: Is it only my impression that online shops do extremely poorly with regards to providing any, or if so accurate description about the fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: I have two fittings &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLgoH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLgoH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I can tell that the outer diameter of the red fitting is about &lt;code&gt;12.60mm / 0.496inches&lt;/code&gt; and of the black one it is about &lt;code&gt;10.86 mm / 0.427 inches&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of an answer could also be which of those fittings sizes/descriptions like &lt;code&gt;MFL&lt;/code&gt;, actually exists, or are merely customarily used, but are not actually a &quot;thing&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14242" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T07:18:07.873" Title="Keg connectos: what are &quot;MFL&quot;/Barb/SAE threading fitting sizes?" Tags="|keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23845" CreationDate="2018-12-26T16:47:46.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;LME already has some liquid in it. Making the yield slightly less than DME per volume but much more exaggerated when measured by weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While maltsters do thier best for consistency yields will vary between batches and maltsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you really can't have any accurate static value of yield for LME / DME or even All Grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maltsters have data sheets for all of thier products. Recipes should be adjusted accordingly. A well recorded original recipe will include malt yields, AA % etc. Recipies are then adjusted at brewing for duplication and consitancy of a beer. Most issues are corrected by correcting OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer: The static ratio is an average and guess at best.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Palmer uses 1.25/1 ratio which is a ratio used by most. IE 6 lb DME = 7.5-7.6lb LME&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2018-12-27T16:39:23.387" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T16:39:23.387" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23839" CreationDate="2018-12-27T19:57:46.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would be a sink special to me, best course of action would be to taste your end product to determine any dramatic flaws in the brewing process. At this time adding water to your brew that is mostly fermented would just dilute the beer. This doesn't mean that it will not be drinkable, just that the ABV will be very very low in terms of a beer, and you may ruin the taste of your first brew by diluting it that much. If you are using  a blow off tube, make sure that you have the hose pressed into the bung, it should not be sticking out into the liquid. Another recommendation is to put your sani-bowl for the blow off tube at the same level as the carboy. As for the top off water, if you are using an extract kit, the amount of water you put in is not unreasonable for these kits. To further yourself in the ways of home brewing I highly recommend reading a few books, they are incredibly valuable for beginners. The complete Joy of Home Brewing by Charlie Papazian is one of my favorites. I posted a link to amazon below. As for any issues in the brewing process, it is hard to answer that without more information, it seems more of a mistake with the fermentation vessel and equipment usage in the end. Just remember that every failure is a lesson learned and not a reason to quit brewing.&#xA;Good luck on the future brews and cheers&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0062215752&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Joy-Homebrewing-Fourth-Revised/dp/0062215752/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_14_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=0CS4M4V3XHQREAN9RJCZ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16842" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T19:57:46.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23864" CreationDate="2018-12-28T00:29:54.680" Score="7" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it can be seen in this Q/A many beginner brewers observe a bloomed fermentation, excessive for one day, then no sign of fermentation but by measuring the gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently got this problem for a german style wheatbeer. The beer itself ended-up quite nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the known downside in term of beer quality from such a fermentation, if any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16876" LastActivityDate="2019-01-05T00:47:17.677" Title="What are the downside of a super-quick fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23853" CreationDate="2018-12-28T08:01:31.297" Score="6" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that some breweries and home brewers reuse yeast for next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But from what I read about yeast mutation and generations that every new cell generation is bit different and can affect beer taste, so how home brewers and breweries reuse yeast and get consistent result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also how about yeast starters? as whenever you grow cell count you producing new cells so new cells must be altered as they mutated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16936" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T00:11:01.950" Title="Will reused yeast change beer taste?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2846" CreationDate="2018-12-28T20:09:21.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to make some very pale bitter (&quot;golden ale&quot;) for a change, with no addition of my normal 250g of standard crystal malt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the only ingredient were&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;my usual Maris Otter pale malt 2.5Kg/5 gallons, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100g pale rye malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100g torrefied wheat. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That makes an everyday brew of about 3.5% alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rye and wheat were added for flavour (rye) and improved head (Torrefied wheat) which I have been using for a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main effect of the crystal malt in my experience is that it darkened the brew a little, giving it a traditional bitter colour. I've never noticed any effect of the crystal malt on sweetness but it may add a little extra body. My unexpected finding is that leaving out the crystal malt has improved the head greatly.  The head starts half an inch high and seems to linger right down to the bottom of the pint now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made 3 pale malt brews now, without any crystal malt, and the result has been the same. For the record, for some years I've been adding 10g of powdered heading compound (from Bigger Jugs) which says it contains &quot;maltodextrin and yeast elements&quot; to the syphoned beer after fermentation and before bottling, which has helped a lot. But the effect of leaving out the crystal malt seems to have been a major advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16939" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2018-12-29T17:43:01.603" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T17:43:01.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23851" CreationDate="2018-12-28T21:41:30.090" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;we can get away with re-using yeast, because Mutation isn't instantaneous, it take multiple generations to change a whole batches properties. Also bigger brewers use a &quot;mother culture&quot; to grow more yeast, like making a starters from the same beginning yeast over and over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my own experience, i have used the same yeast batch for 3-4 times with no changes to its characteristics one exception was a cream ale blend with a lager yeast and ale yeast, after 2 batches the balance of yeast changed the profile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In general, the mutation rate in unicellular eukaryotes (and bacteria) is roughly 0.003 mutations per genome per cell generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mutation_rate#cite_note-Genetics-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastEditorUserId="11944" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T00:11:01.950" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T00:11:01.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9795" CreationDate="2018-12-30T14:09:30.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to Lidl get their Oxy powder in tub, non scented and cheap, makes vast quantities. Use hot water as well, use small soft sponge on you FV, Steep your plastic barrels. Rinse out twice inc' sponge.Then use STARSAN. Don't fear the foam!&#xA;Cheers , happy new year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T14:09:30.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9795" CreationDate="2018-12-31T16:04:51.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Milton a lot in the past because I had it lying about the house already (from baby duty) when I started brewing. It seems fine, I think once I've had a beer that was a bit sour. Current using VWP and can't tell any difference. I don't mind rinsing because I think our water is pretty clean (probably if there are off flavours in my beer it's related to chlorites rather than microbes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T16:04:51.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1446" CreationDate="2019-01-02T18:29:49.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer to have a crystal clear view of the activity in my fermenter, so I did away many years ago with my opaque fertiliser lids and airlocks. Instead, I use kitchen cling wrap, stretch it across the open fermenter neck, and secure it with a large and strong rubber band. CO2 escapes via a pin hole created with, you guessed it, a pin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has worked for me with no problems, and no airlocks to clean and sanitize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T18:29:49.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22316" CreationDate="2019-01-02T21:44:27.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think the common house-hold washing machine could be retrofitted for this purpose. I'd start with a new one of course, and &quot;plumb in&quot; beer instead of tap water, and have the &quot;Spin Cycle&quot; drain elsewhere. Maybe incorporate a &quot;Wye-Valve&quot; with photo cell that would automagically switch after the &quot;opaque&quot; lees pass through...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16948" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T21:44:27.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-04T18:20:35.723" Score="1" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am korean homebrewer. I brewed Citra Pale Ale, but I am not quite satisfied. After fermentation, I added 3g or 6g of priming sugar in 500ml bottles. The 3g of sugar bottles had good flavor but less carbonation. The 6g of sugar bottles had less flavor and were a little bit sweet, and they had more carbonation than the 3g but it is still not enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you carbonate(How long)?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How much do you priming the sugar?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is it better use refined Dextrose? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16953" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-01-04T21:09:10.747" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T18:24:14.757" Title="Best Carbonation amount of sugar" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23862" CreationDate="2019-01-04T20:47:52.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long it will need depends mainly on temperature, and viability of the yeast. Viability of yeast in turn depends on things like strength of beer, length of primary (and secondary if applicable) fermentation, whether beer has been cold-crashed or had finings added to it prior to bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say if it's a been a normal healthy fermentation of an average strength (5%) beer, you should bottle your beer and then wait at least one week at 20°C, two if preferable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally use table (cane) sugar and that works fine. How much sugar to use depends on the style of beer. There are many online calculators to help you work this out - e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T18:24:14.757" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T18:24:14.757" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23850" CreationDate="2019-01-05T00:47:17.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually a fermentation happens quicker than normal for 3 reasons. Poor oxygen, large yeast pitch, warm temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Low Disolved Oxygen&lt;/strong&gt;: Yeast needs oxygen in wort to multiply. When oxygen is gone it's one of the triggers for yeast to move from growth phase to feeding phase. &lt;em&gt;This can result in off flavors and mostly poor attenuation, incomplete fermentation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Large Pitch&lt;/strong&gt;: Beer styles that have clean ester profiles do very well with large pitch rates, even full pitch by using the entire cake or trub from a like batch.  Most esters are made during yeast growth, with larger pitches the growth phase is short or skipped all together greatly reducing growth esters. &lt;em&gt;This can be bad for styles that are ester dependant like belgians, saisons etc&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warm Temperatures&lt;/strong&gt; The warmer the temperature the higher the metabolism of the yeast. Everything happens quicker. &lt;em&gt;In this haste a lot of undesirable chemicals are produced. Bad esters and larger molecule alcohols. Leaving a beer hot from fusal alcohols and even have extremes of nail polish aromas.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2019-01-05T00:47:17.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-05T13:42:17.317" Score="0" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made several honey wheat batches from honey wheat kits that turned out too dark, too heavy, too bitter. I would love to make a lighter honey wheat beer. Does it make sense to buy a lighter wheat beer kit and simply add a sweet honey like clover honey to the recipe? Thx,&#xA;Wheatless in GA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16957" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T04:35:24.000" Title="Honey wheat recipe" Tags="|ingredients|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-06T18:31:27.593" Score="5" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not have any pectic enzyme and want to start a mead batch today. Can it be added later as there is no supply distributor in my town&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16960" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T19:59:08.893" Title="Adding pectic enzyme to mead" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-06T18:58:38.987" Score="8" ViewCount="2802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started brewing less than a year ago. In that time I've acquired about 60 swing top bottles, and filled about 200, I estimate I've filled each bottle less than 5 times. The last batches I made were a biere de Garde, an ESB and a Xmas ale. Unfortunately the carbonation of the biere de Garde was totally lacking, essentially on a par with the bitter, which I put down to some kind of mistake (not enough sugar, not enough time at room temp) until I started cracking open the crown cap bottles. One of them was a gusher and the others had big foamy euro style heads. I now believe the swing tops are to blame and were not holding pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question therefore is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long should swing tops be viable for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And also:&#xA;Is there anything I can do to improve their performance short of replacing all the seals?&#xA;Is there anything I've done that could be to blame for them having deteriorated? I usually just rinse bottles immediately after use then fill with milton/VWP for 15 mins and rinse immediately before filling, and leave the tops in a bowl of the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T18:19:41.060" Title="Life expectancy of swing-top bottles" Tags="|bottling|equipment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23866" CreationDate="2019-01-06T19:59:08.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are making mead solely from Honey, Water, Yeast, then you will not need to add anything else.  No pectic enzyme required!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16961" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T19:59:08.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23867" CreationDate="2019-01-07T18:06:00.400" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a mechanical cap, as long as the mecanism and rubber is good, the bottle will be good.  Changing the rubber seal is one way to expand the life of these bottles, however you should inspect the seals and if the rubber has not dried out, then it is still good.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I will just flip the rubber seal around to make sure it is not always compressed in the same spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I feel one bottle doesn't seal as well as before, I will use a pair of pliers to bend the wire mecanism a little to make it tighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T18:06:00.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23867" CreationDate="2019-01-08T10:49:59.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a quality Grolsch bottle, it will serve you for years. If it's a generic swing-top bottle from LHBS, don't expect much. Get a large pack of replacement seals off eBay and replace a seal on a bottle once you suspect that it doesn't hold pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My protocol for bottles is: 1. straight after use just rinse with tap water, then put into the dishwasher together with the rest of everyday stuff, wash at 60C, 2. collect and store opened, 3. when there are enough bottles to fill the entire dishwasher, put them all in and wash without detergent at 70C, 4. collect, cover the bottleneck and the (open) swing top with a piece of cling wrap and store like that until bottling. Never had infection issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T10:49:59.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23867" CreationDate="2019-01-08T18:19:41.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swing-top bottle seals are inexpensive, so replace on a regular basis, say every third or fourth bottling. One method of identifying worn seals is to close the cap when the bottle is empty and clean. If the seal is effective, some effort is required to close the cap. If the seal is worn, much less effort is required and the seal should be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seal life can be extended by reversing the seals after each use, but this method certainly does not double the life of the seal. Up to the individual to decide if it is worthwhile.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T18:19:41.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="180" CreationDate="2019-01-08T22:33:37.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleaning is the process of removing dirt and debris. &#xA;Sanitizing is the process of lowering the bacterial numbers to below a certain percentage. Wich is ~99.999. but does not kill all of the microorganisms. Sterilization requires either special chemicals or heat above 250°F for at least a minimum of 15 minutes. IE: using a pressure cooker@15psi or oven above 250°f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16964" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T22:33:37.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11403" CreationDate="2019-01-09T03:29:33.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would pop up the lid and let the co2 escape, i was doing kefir, and it didnt hold it, it didnt make a mess but the lid broke the ring, i still drank it bit the lid didnt hold the kefir&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16965" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T03:29:33.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23875" CreationDate="2019-01-09T17:07:54.610" Score="0" ViewCount="2010" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fermentable Sugar, e.g. Maple Syrup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I brewed a Maple Stout before Christmas in which I racked the beer to a secondary fermentation vessel where I added 550g of Maple Syrup. I let it sit at 12ºC for 4 days before racking to keg. The schedule was as so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Day 0,  O.G. = 1.067&#xA;Day 10, S.G. = 1.015, transfer to secondary, S.G. = ?&#xA;Day 14, F.G. = 1.017, transfer to keg&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't think to take a gravity reading after mixing the beer with the Maple Stout (doh), but even if I did, is that how the ABV would be calculated? Adding the 6.83% of 1.067-1.015 and X% of 1.0xx-1.017. E.g. 1.020-1.017 is 0.39% so 6.83% + 0.39% = 7.22%?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Christmas was around the corner I just labelled it up as 7.2% and let it be, but for future brews I want to be able to know the exact ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fruit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Any sort of sugar or syrup would be the same as whatever method is described for above, but fruit I imagine would be more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would one make the calculations if adding fruit? For example, using the same gravity readings above for Day 0 and Day 10 of 1.067 to 1.015, how would you work out the ABV if adding 500g of Mango and 500g Apricot into the secondary fermentation? Or any other fruit for that matter. How do the breweries do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T00:09:05.350" Title="How to calculate ABV when adding fermentable sugar or fruit to secondary fermentation?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|fruit|specific-gravity|adjuncts|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23874" CreationDate="2019-01-10T00:02:31.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is: for whole fruit it's difficult to estimate - how much sugar was extracted from the fruit?! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The potential gravity contribution of fruit &lt;em&gt;juice&lt;/em&gt; can be determined simply by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.education.com/science-fair/article/measure-sugar-ripe-fruit/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;putting some juice into a refractometer&lt;/a&gt;.  Obviously it's possible to squeeze the juice out of the type of fruit in use.  Generally fruit sugars are comprised of fructose, sucrose and glucose, all of which are 100% fermentable.  So if the addition is fruit juice, that's some fermentables, and some dilution (from water in juice).  However, if the juice-water contribution is just considered part of the brewing liquor, this part of the problem disappears, leaving just a sugar addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So say you add 1 litre of juice, at 12% sugar instead of 1 litre of brewing liquor, theoretically that's an addition of around 120 grams of sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we consider the maple syrup to be a juice, it's around 66% sugar.  Thus in 500g there's 330 grams of sugars and 170 grams of water (approximately).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the OP's question, the OG was 1.067, in &lt;em&gt;say&lt;/em&gt; 20 litres.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grams per litre of dissolved solids &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vinolab.hr/calculator/gravity-density-sugar-conversions-en19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;can be calculated&lt;/a&gt; from dissolved solids = &lt;code&gt;SG * (SG_in_Brix * 10)&lt;/code&gt;.  So with an SG of 1.067 that's 175 grams per litre, and for 20 litres 3500 grams (175 * 20).  So with the fruit-juice sugar addition, that's now 3800 grams in 20.17 litres.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back-calculating this gives an OG of of 1.072 (roughly).  This gives an AbV of 7.3%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SG → Brix formula is: &lt;code&gt;brix = ( 143.254 * sg_cubed ) - ( 648.670 * sg_squared ) + ( 1125.805 * sg) - 620.389&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further Reading:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/articles/fruit_in_beer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.morebeer.com/articles/fruit_in_beer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T00:09:05.350" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T00:09:05.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23833" CreationDate="2019-01-10T11:50:04.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're experiencing a common off-flavor in cider called THP or tetrahydropyridine.  Yes, it's safe to drink, but just doesn't taste all that great.  I had this in one of my ciders a few years ago.  They say it can taste like toasty, crackers, Cheerios, and I always say: Cheese Nips or Doritos... and at very high levels... urine or &quot;mousy&quot; which is referring to the smell of mouse urine or a mouse den.  This can come from contamination from bacteria or wild yeast, or other things stated below.  I found additional reference information here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“Studies show that the set of conditions necessary for mousy off-flavor development include: high pH, exposure to atmospheric oxygen, and, possibly, low concentrations of tannins, pigments and sulfur dioxide.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:VciJe8HXuWAJ:https://www.winebusiness.com/wbm/%3Fgo%3DgetArticle%26dataId%3D48582+&amp;amp;cd=4&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ct=clnk&amp;amp;gl=us&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:VciJe8HXuWAJ:https://www.winebusiness.com/wbm/%3Fgo%3DgetArticle%26dataId%3D48582+&amp;amp;cd=4&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ct=clnk&amp;amp;gl=us&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flavor tends to age out of sour beers after 2-6 months in the fermenter, kegs, or bottles (although aging periods as long as possibly 8-12 months have been reported...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many brewers have noticed that pitching rehydrated yeast at packaging reduces the amount/duration of this flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reference from someplace:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;In food, tetrahydropyridines are associated with the aroma of baked goods such as white bread, popcorn, and tortillas, and is formed by Maillard reactions during heating. Traditionally, the mousy/Cheerios® flavor from THP is considered an off flavor in both wine and sour beer.&quot;  Cider obviously should also be included here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Brettanomyces produces tetrahydropyridine (THP), which at low levels provide a toasty flavor (at higher levels the perception of THP shifts to urine, or euphemistically &quot;mousy.&quot;). I suspect this compound also plays a role in the 'Cheerios' flavors bottle-conditioned sours often temporarily develop.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.themadfermentationist.com/2015/02/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.themadfermentationist.com/2015/02/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should keep folks busy for a while.  Keep on Googling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheerio!  ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T11:50:04.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23865" CreationDate="2019-01-11T01:18:03.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always just dilute if the beer is too bitter, too dark, etc.  If the kit is designed to make 5 gallons, then make 6 gallons instead, or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using liquid extract, be aware that it stales quickly and can become very dark indeed, in contrast to dry malt extract which if you have the light color extract will stay light indefinitely.  And in the case of either LME or DME, you might wish to reserve most of it for the end of the boil, or boil for just ~10 minutes instead of 45-60 minutes, to reduce darkening during the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honey can lighten the body and flavor.  Go ahead and add some if you like.  But be aware that it will also increase the alcohol level.  So again, you might want to dilute to a higher volume, or maybe use less extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are brewing all-grain, then some of this advice will not apply and we'll need to figure out what else could be going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I think you may find this helpful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B3mHJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B3mHJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T01:18:03.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23879" CreationDate="2019-01-12T10:41:59.167" Score="6" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a second batch of Christmas ale, which was spiced with cinnamon, ginger, clove and nutmeg. I put a bottle in the fridge last night and tried it, but only a small amount of spice came through in smell/taste. Then I decided to open a bottle that &lt;em&gt;hadn't&lt;/em&gt; been chilled, and the spice character was &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more present, especially the cinnamon and clove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does chilling reduce the perceptibility of the spice? It is something chemically related to the beer, or just natural human perception? In any case, it was still enjoyable at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16151" LastActivityDate="2019-01-14T19:41:07.557" Title="Why do my spice flavors disappear when my beer is chilled?" Tags="|beer|temperature|flavor|aroma|spices|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23878" CreationDate="2019-01-12T12:00:16.610" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a combination of human perception and physical science.  Volatile compounds are less volatile at cold temperatures (physical chemistry), and the human nervous system is dulled or numbed slightly at colder temperatures (human).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the same reason why the Brits like to drink their beer &quot;warm&quot; (not ice cold = more flavor), and why the mega brewers like Bud/Miller/Coors want you to drink their beers cold as ice (less perception of any off-flavors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T12:00:16.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-13T05:09:40.777" Score="5" ViewCount="2868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are priming sugar calculators out there to help decide how much sugar one should add but is there any thing as too much priming sugar and if yes what would be the side effect to expect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have brewed two batches now but they both lacked carbonation and were out right flat.  And I was using Northern Brewer's Fizz drops for priming but the complication was I have 16oz bottles and fizz drop were for 12oz bottles, so I added 1 and a half drop in each of the bottle. I am thinking of adding more than that for the next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16975" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-01-15T13:12:11.293" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T12:59:24.993" Title="Is there anything as too much priming sugar?" Tags="|carbonation|co2|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23880" CreationDate="2019-01-13T05:45:38.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different beers do need different levels of carbonation. Let me tell you something; a lot of science goes behind the process of carbonation. Before your priming process, you should make sure your batch has yeast from the primary fermentation stage(no adding more). You should stir your beer gently before bottling to make sure each bottle gets the yeast to convert the sugars in the drops into CO2. Well, there is something called over carbonation and it occurs if there is too much carbonation. If you make sure there is yeast in every of your bottle and the recommended amount of carbonation drops then you must not face any lack of carbonation. Try to get the yeast even throughout the entire beer for bottling. Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16658" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T05:45:38.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23880" CreationDate="2019-01-13T16:51:15.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have added approximately the right amount of priming sugar and your beer is not carbonated at all, your problem probably is not the amount of sugar added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common problem is inadequate mixing of the priming sugar in the batch, but this doesn't apply here because you indicate that you added sugar to each bottle individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other potential problems (though unlikely assuming basic understanding of the process) is lack of viable yeast in the bottles, insufficient time for the yeast to consume the priming sugar, or storing the bottled beer at too low of a temperature for the yeast to become active and consume the added sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem is more likely a failure of the caps to hold pressure and thus allow all the carbonation that forms to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you added approximately enough priming sugar in the first attempts and got no carbonation at all, then adding more and not changing anything else is unlikely to solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is temperature or time, store the bottles at room temperature for a week or two. That should solve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is lack of viable yeast: open each bottle, add a tiny amount of dry yeast or a drop of liquid yeast slurry, and re-cap. Store the bottles at room temperature for a week or two. In this case, do not add more sugar (because the sugar you added before is still there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is bad capping: open each bottle, re-prime, and cap. Store the bottles at room temperature for a week or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding over-priming:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a couple batches that I over-primed a little bit. The observed behavior was that about three seconds after removing the cap on a 22 ounce bottle, about eight ounces of foam would emerge from the bottle. Foam would continue to form inside the bottle for a few minutes (and if I had only poured out a few ounces, enough foam formed to emerge from the bottle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was not catastrophic, but would create a mess if I wasn't ready to pour immediately into a glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose that the more you over-prime, the faster/more violent this process will be. If you prime enough (or, more likely, bottle before fermentation is complete), you can create bottle bombs (the bottles can explode), which is dangerous and very, very messy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3003" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T16:51:15.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-13T21:58:00.960" Score="4" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hydrometer reading is 1.014 from 1.058.  I just dry hopped.  How long should I let it ferment?  Can I let alone for one more week without messing it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16978" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2019-01-14T02:18:41.733" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T11:54:44.690" Title="How long can I let an IPA fermented while dry hopping?" Tags="|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23883" CreationDate="2019-01-14T11:04:39.993" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The accepted knowledge on dry hopping today is as so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The majority of the hop aroma will be imparted after 24 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nearly all of the hop aroma will be imparted after 72 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vegetal and other off flavours will begin to develop after 2 weeks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hop pellets are more efficient for dry hopping than whole hops*.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I spoke with Charles Faram about this and was told that T90 pellets are around 15% more efficient at utilization than whole hops meaning you'd need 15% less weight of pellets as you would whole hops to achieve the same aroma and flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will usually dry hop for 3-5 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, you will be fine leaving it for 1 week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastEditorUserId="3032" LastEditDate="2019-03-07T11:54:44.690" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T11:54:44.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23888" CreationDate="2019-01-14T18:58:59.257" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be tackling &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/tart-of-lightness-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this recipe&lt;/a&gt; for my first attempt at a kettle sour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the notes, it goes over procedures to make a starter. Researching I've come across sources that say you should have a heating pad under your beaker on the stir plate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have neither currently and I was wondering if I could get away with not doing one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/17604/kettle-souring-with-lactobacillus-hot-plate&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; suggests heating the mixture to temp and then just wrapping it. Would that be effective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15277" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T19:28:45.107" Title="How essential is a starter for brewing with Lactobacillus?" Tags="|temperature|sour|starter|lactobacillus|procedure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23886" CreationDate="2019-01-16T13:23:44.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I have no experience with Lactobacillus, I think part of the answer is in the Brewer's Notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some strains of Lactobacillus work better at much lower temperatures... Lacto pitch rate is important...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe since this recipe has 2 yeast strains, the pitch rate is more critical than when you have only one. So if you don't have the stir plate, you should find another way of making a starter and keep your process as close as the suggested one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps take a look at this page : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fivebladesbrewing.com/lactobacillus-starter-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lactobacillus Starter Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T13:23:44.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23892" CreationDate="2019-01-16T18:37:17.557" Score="1" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my beer reached FG I transferred it into a corny keg, cold crashed in my keezer at 42°F, and fined with gelatin.  48 hours after adding the gelatin I pulled about a pint of sludge until the beer was looking clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to add priming solution to the beer and bottle straight from my corny keg in a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I pour my priming solution into the top of the keg, will it mix effectively so that I'm not left with varying amounts of carbonation in each bottle (or perhaps even bottle bombs)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How long should I allow the keg to sit to ensure the priming solution has mixed completely?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'll be keeping the keg at 42°F prior to bottling, which I assume means the yeast (Wyeast Irish Ale - 1084) will be dormant and won't start working on the priming sugar until I've bottled the beer and warmed it up.  Is that a safe assumption?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each time the keg has been opened it has been sealed and purged with 15PSI and then taken off gas.  I assume this has added a negligible amount of CO2 that can be ignored for priming calculations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE (3 weeks later)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation levels appear to be consistent on bottles filled at both the beginning and end of the keg.  Only 1 of ~10 random bottles sampled seemed different (slightly over-carbed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did exactly as @jsolarski recommended and gently poured the priming solution into the keg, sealed and purged, gave it a gentle shake/roll, and bottled after a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future I will do multiple gentle rolls and wait at least 15 minutes to ensure thorough mixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6470" LastEditorUserId="6470" LastEditDate="2019-02-05T01:10:24.493" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T01:10:24.493" Title="How long should I wait for priming solution to mix when added to a keg?" Tags="|bottling|corny-keg|priming|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-16T23:00:12.033" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I boil my hops in a gallon of wort for bittering, then store it in a Masson jar in my fridge for a week?  Will this hold its properties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16987" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2019-01-17T00:47:34.380" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T00:47:34.380" Title="can I store my boiled hopped wort" Tags="|bittering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23890" CreationDate="2019-01-17T00:05:38.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you could, in theory, do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;boiling in that small of a scale, you will lose hop utilization, and maybe difficult to calculate final IBUs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also sanitation, if you add this to post boil wort to bitter, there is a chance of introducing other things that may spoil your beer.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T00:05:38.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23889" CreationDate="2019-01-17T00:23:49.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) yes it will mix, give it a good shake or stir or swirl&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) as little as 5 mins, but would not let it sit over night. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) temperature is no guarantee, unless below freezing, that your yeast will be fully dormant. you can be safe to assume that the yeast will be very slow, and eat the sugars at a very low rate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** remember to take temperature into account when adding your priming solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also if you Fined your beer, it may take longer to carbonate in bottles due to less yeast floating around.  so a good swirl would be recommended &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T00:23:49.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-17T15:26:12.533" Score="1" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;For various reasons (climate being one) I'm trying to bring my brewing indoors and I cannot simply vent the steam out. A condensing pipe could allow me to remove the vast amount of steam and thus close the garage door. I am also looking to upgrade to a bigger kit so understanding how these work will help me pick the best equipment for my needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following link explains a little bit but it doesn't detail the explanation:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://microbrewerysystem.com/Blog/Steam_condenser_in_microbrewery_934.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://microbrewerysystem.com/Blog/Steam_condenser_in_microbrewery_934.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the principle behind a condensing pipe? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must a certain temperature and flow rate of water be achieved in order to successfully condense the steam? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have seen some breweries with a condensing pipe not from the highest point above the kettle, but almost from the side. Is there a reason for this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link shows a slightly different application with the water fired from above the steam rather than trying to create negative pressure to suck the steam through:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brew-boss.com/Condenser-Boss-Boil-Kettle-Condenser-p/cb-bb-apmount.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brew-boss.com/Condenser-Boss-Boil-Kettle-Condenser-p/cb-bb-apmount.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastEditorUserId="3032" LastEditDate="2019-01-17T15:40:25.420" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T16:24:18.083" Title="Homemade condensing pipe for kettle" Tags="|equipment|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23893" CreationDate="2019-01-17T16:24:18.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) steam condenses due to temperature change, all the water is doing is cooling the steam off so it condenses.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) water is just used to cool it, you could use a copper pipe with cold water flowing through it inside the condenser pipe, or wrap cold packs around the condenser pipe, the only principle if you must cool it for steam to condense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Depends on setup and preference...etc....maybe one way is more energy effecient or space saving, but the principle is the same.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T16:24:18.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2019-01-17T17:29:42.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I freeze it in small batches and add it to the dough when I'm making whole wheat/multigrain  bread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12067" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T17:29:42.940" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-01-17T17:29:42.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23897" CreationDate="2019-01-17T23:05:46.193" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm finally taking a stab at formulating my own beer recipe.  What I'd like to achieve is something dark and chewy, but not overly sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been playing around with the recipe tools on brewersfriend, estimating OG / FG / ABV / IBU / SRM from a recipe.  Are there similar tools for estimating perceived post-fermentation sweetness from a recipe?  For that matter, does a &quot;sweetness&quot; measurement scale exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or am I overthinking this - and what I'm after is just FG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any pointers (and recipe formulation strategies are most welcome!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T00:09:58.517" Title="Estimating residual sugars in a beer recipe" Tags="|beer|sugar|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23896" CreationDate="2019-01-18T00:09:58.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way to know residual sweetness, lots of things change the perceptible sweetness.....ABV, non-fermentables, hop choice, yeast choice, boil time....etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give an example...I made an old ale, only using marris otter....F.G 1.008 S.G 1.076.....it turned out super sweet, due to the long boil time, lots of caramel and prune flavors, and very thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing your ingredients is the best way to design a recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the KISS principle when creating your first few recipes, start with a base malt, and add single hop and a single adjunct or specialty grain. get an idea what it adds. &#xA;then change it up or add on top another ingredient next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;slowly build it up, change one thing at a time till you have the knowledge or a good idea what things add to the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to help with something chewy dark and semi sweet, look for stout or porter recipes with higher F.G. good amount of caramel/crystal malts, or long boil times, over 1.5 hrs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T00:09:58.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-18T01:15:58.447" Score="3" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the first time I will make a ginger bug and the process seems very simple but my question is. How long can I keep feeding my ginger bug and if I will be using that bug to make ginger beer  what happens when I run out of the culture, can I add more water? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you everyone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16991" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T20:01:50.210" Title="Remaining ginger bug" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|beer|ginger-beer|ginger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-18T12:38:50.237" Score="2" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to bottle and carbonate in flip-top steel growlers. How long do you think the beer stays fresh? Any other problems that might arise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16995" LastEditorUserId="16995" LastEditDate="2019-01-18T12:46:40.840" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T19:14:27.817" Title="Bottling in steel growlers" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23899" CreationDate="2019-01-18T19:14:27.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see any reason why you can't do this, just make sure you calculate priming sugar and make sure those growlers can handle the pressures you want to be at for your homebrew. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/pages/priming-sugar-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You should use a priming sugar calculator like this.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer will stay fresh as long as you don't open it. For upwards of a year or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T19:14:27.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2019-01-19T22:28:27.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it is 2019, I would like to add a little nuance to this debate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have left multiple beers to condition at room temp for 7 days after bottling, and then put them in the fridge. They were tasty, carbonated, and totally fine to drink. That said, letting them condition for an extra week or two has made some of the IPAs I have brewed improve. I usually bottle a few 355ml bottles so I can pop one in every few days past 7 days to see how things are going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately I have been brewing some really hazy stuff. The IPAs I'm going for are heavily dry hopped, and this usually results in some of the hop particulate/plant matter being left over in the beer. I think these hazy IPAs are usually much better fresh, as this leftover hop matter can result in the beer not aging as well as some other ales. It may be the case that 7 days room temp conditioning + a few days/one week in the fridge will be better for this style. I have bottled a batch and it is conditioning right now. I will try and get back once I have tasted a few at various stages (1 week room temp, 2 weeks, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17000" LastActivityDate="2019-01-19T22:28:27.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-20T21:15:51.123" Score="1" ViewCount="1456" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone seen this before? Very light bread mold look only on the surface of primary fermentation. All equipment StarSan’d before use. I’ve been home brewing for many years and never had this happen so, no clue if this batch is ruined. Safe to drink? Also, brewed this 3 weeks ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KqWOM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13971" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T00:59:37.017" Title="Primary Fermentation - Mold or Yeast by product?" Tags="|mold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23902" CreationDate="2019-01-21T03:31:09.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like pieces of a pellicle from bacterial infection. Sanitize everything with bleach, rinse properly with water and then starsan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T03:31:09.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23906" CreationDate="2019-01-21T13:13:25.683" Score="2" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little bit of background: &#xA;I finished brewing a black IPA and pitched yeast around 5:00 on Sunday.  Admittedly, the wort was a little warm (75F), because it was 9 degrees outside and I was in a hurry to get back inside. The yeast was made from Wyyeast #1056.  I made a starter on Thursday, after the major activity had subsided, I put it in the refrigerator overnight, decanted the wort and added more boiled wort. On brew day I decanted again and gave the yeast about 3 hours at room temperature before pitching. BrewSmith estimated 378 Billion cells prior to the decant.  I'm not sure how to account for that in the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realized today (Monday morning), that I forgot to get the OG.  Considering it had only been 14 hours I figured the yeast would still be in the growth or lag phase.  Even when I have really active ale yeast, it still usually takes 24 hours to get through the lag phase.  My plan was to take readings with both my hygrometer and refractometer, so I could back calculate the difference and estimate the OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Approaching the fermentation bucket, it didn't look like the airlock had seen any activity but I could smell what in my opinion was healthy yeast growth.  The lid was a screw on lid and the gasket seal broke last time, so it may have vented through there.  I removed the lid, looked like pretty typical growth, when I checked the gravity, it was fully attenuated.  Is this normal in 14 hours?  Given the temperature and started probably helped but I have never seen attenuation occur remotely this fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: 5 days later:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I wait at least 6 days before moving to secondary, but whatever happened, this was done days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested I used the OG estimator in Beersmith.  I figured doing this was possible, but wasn't sure it would be all that accurate with only two data points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fg (Hydgrometer/refractometer) 1.008/1.022&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beersmith estimated the OG at 1.087 based on the calculation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe estimation was an OG of 1.083 and an FG of 1.021.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I guess may major concern about low attenuation isn't a problem.  I don't entirely trust the back calculation but the extra steps in the started prep seemed to pay off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12902" LastEditorUserId="12902" LastEditDate="2019-01-26T00:42:50.220" LastActivityDate="2019-01-26T00:42:50.220" Title="Really fast attenuation with starter. Is this to be expected" Tags="|yeast-starters|original-gravity|attenuation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23904" CreationDate="2019-01-21T21:20:10.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it's totally possible. But I would expect a lower OG than you estimate. 1.071 is possible to drop out that quick but not very likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a hydrometer AND refractometer reading on the finished beer and feedbthose values to the tool in BeerSmith under refractometer tools to get an actual OG estimate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T21:20:10.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23918" CreationDate="2019-01-22T19:21:37.247" Score="3" ViewCount="6134" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mead is made with steeped hibiscus leaves and hops which was added to honey and a crushed nutmeg when it cooled down some. When it was the right temperature, I added the yeast and aerated it. I added half a bag red star active dry yeast. Overnight it exploded, so I added spring water to bring it back up a bit, and put back on the airlock. Within 5 minutes, the airlock was full of foam. I took it off and cleaned it 2 more times! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tldr;&lt;/strong&gt; Why is my viking blod mead producing so much foam?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUM0U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUM0U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cvrY8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cvrY8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15358" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T21:14:25.387" Title="Why is my mead overflowing with foam?" Tags="|fermentation|mead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3409" CreationDate="2019-01-22T19:35:49.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know it has been a few years but if you're still looking, I order my caps from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blankmediaprinting.com/Custom-Bottle-Caps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.blankmediaprinting.com/Custom-Bottle-Caps&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17006" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T19:35:49.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23902" CreationDate="2019-01-23T00:59:37.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was once told that a general rule is any white infection is salvageable as a sour if you so choose, any green must be dumped. Personally I hate sours and will dump all infections, and that's definitely infected. Dump it, don't even bother tasting it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17004" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T00:59:37.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23912" CreationDate="2019-01-23T17:42:48.403" Score="4" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I leave a few lit candles in my fermentation chamber (chest freezer,) would it eat up all the oxygen without any adverse effects? I've seen people do this on a smaller scale but it creates a vacuum. My suspicion is, if the beer is still producing gas, the amount of vacuum won't exceed the produced CO2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17004" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T18:55:21.190" Title="Using candles to take out oxygen in fermentation chamber?" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23911" CreationDate="2019-01-23T18:55:21.190" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are fermenting in a chest freezer, I don't think oxygen will be a problem for you.  Just after you pitch, you want as much oxygen you can get in solution.  When fermentation begins in earnest, the produced CO2 will displace not only the oxygen in the carboy/bucket, but also in the chest freezer.  In my freezer, I have to be very careful not to stick my head in there during fermentation because of the lack of oxygen, and certainly any candles in there will snuff out early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always used to like to smell the fermentation, which was easy to do when I didn't have the freezer.  Part way through my first fermentation with the freezer, I stuck my head in to take a whiff and got a lungful of CO2 which burned my throat and knocked me back; that's when I had my forehead-slapping moment and realized what an idiot I had just been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T18:55:21.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23915" CreationDate="2019-01-23T21:09:36.083" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would be a proper BJCP category to enter a Pale Ale with Rye and Wheat?  The wheat contribution is nearly 30% but the Rye is less than 10%.&#xA;It is crystal clear with a nice light rye bite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It tastes like a great Pale Ale to me, but I would imagine it would be disqualified due to the rye content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternate fermentable is an option too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6300" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T03:30:32.080" Title="BJCP Category for a APA with Rye and Wheat" Tags="|bjcp|competition|pale|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-24T03:22:19.263" Score="2" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an obsessive home brewer.  So I'm always trying to critically evaluate the flavour of beers I make with a view to constantly improving their quality. In particular I am searching for off-flavours, like by-products of fermentation, or is &lt;em&gt;some-ingredient&lt;/em&gt; too prominent in the flavour profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I find that if I eat certain foods (like flavoured chips/crisps), before drinking beer, some parts of the malt taste profile (or the yeast?) flavours go weird, the sweetness becoming kind of saccharine (maybe). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some foods do not prompt this at all, e.g.: unflavoured corn chips/crisps, salted peanuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a know phenomenon? &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is there a way to &quot;reset&quot; one's palette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is really a question about food &amp;amp; flavours.  I'd like to prepare meals (and snacks) that don't make beer taste weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: cross-posted to &quot;Seasoned Advice&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T22:30:08.293" Title="After I eat some foods beer tastes weird?" Tags="|beer|flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23913" CreationDate="2019-01-24T03:30:32.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it tastes like an APA, then it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; an APA.  The judges don't get to see your recipe.  Always enter based on taste, not based on recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T03:30:32.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23914" CreationDate="2019-01-24T15:55:52.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certain foods can have effects on taste buds. Rinsing your mouth out with water (not mouthwash as that can do the same thing) will help. This is why we learn to food and beer (or wine) parings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I do bottle shares, always have water available, or bland foods to rinse a certain beer out, and that way one taste does not have an effect on the next. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17012" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T15:55:52.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23886" CreationDate="2019-01-24T19:10:44.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what is called a &quot;kettle sour&quot;, because you're souring it in your boil kettle, then reboiling.  This gives pretty precise control over how much you sour it.  This IMO, is the main reason for the specifics on the starter.  You're leaving it in there for a short period of time, and you need a good yeast count for it to get the job done.  The author of the recipe may have planned the yeast count vs. the time left in the kettle.  18-36 hours actually seems a bit excessive.  Some pro brewers might just do theirs overnight and they determine when it is done based on pH level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need a stir plate to make a starter... while a stir plate is more &#xA;efficient, using a growler is just fine.  No need to over complicate it.  There are calculators out there which will tell you expected cell count production in a starter with or without a stir plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would wager he tells you to get the starter warm(er) because the primary goal is to get the starter/yeast to match the temp of the boil kettle (which is still quite warm).  A major immediate temperature shift in a yeast slurry can blow the cell walls and kill the yeast.  They can survive in a wide range, but an instant 40* rise is tough on the bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was going to be soured and aged in the fermenter... I might suggest that the starter isn't &lt;em&gt;required&lt;/em&gt;, as it'll have plenty of time to do it's work, but there is such a low yeast count in a liquid yeast vial that a starter is almost always a must; that said, sours, eh, I dunno, they're a different ball game.  I'm trying to master this myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14312" LastEditorUserId="14312" LastEditDate="2019-01-24T19:28:45.107" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T19:28:45.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23908" CreationDate="2019-01-24T21:05:17.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you have a very active fermentation (this is good news), and I'll take a guess that something in your ingredients (perhaps the oils in the nutmeg?) has increased the surface tension of the liquid - hence all the little CO2 bubbles stick around longer without popping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The foam will settle down in the next few days - I'd say wait it out, let it ferment, and see if it tastes good in the end!  In the meantime, maybe try rigging a blowoff tube instead of your 3-piece airlock so you don't have to clean it out so often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for the next batch, I'd recommend leaving a little more headspace to make room for the foam.  When I ferment cider in a 1-gallon jug, I generally don't fill it past where the sidewall starts to curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it turns out great - the color is amazing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, I did run across a paper that measured the surface tension of different food and medicinal oils.  Didn't see anything useful at a glance, but at one point it mentioned &quot;poopy seed oil&quot;.  That's gotta be one of the better typos I've seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastEditorUserId="15127" LastEditDate="2019-01-24T21:14:25.387" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T21:14:25.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1706" CreationDate="2019-01-25T22:26:49.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wrt the claims that the terms are used interchangably: this appears to be true in the USA, for historical reasons, but it ain't so everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the mere fact that a term is used (by some people), interchangably, does not mean they are strictly correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the initial answer indicates (and it is accurate), they are, in fact, different, with one being an effective subset of the other. Crystal malts will generally have a sweeter, more caramel, and less bready profile than the equivalent caramel malt (and some caramel malts are in fact mixtures of, for example, Munich malt and crystal malt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16837" LastActivityDate="2019-01-25T22:26:49.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20510" CreationDate="2019-01-27T22:17:28.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't agree with some of the comments above. Keg conditioned beer has been made all over the world without CO2 gas for hundreds of years, and it lasted just fine in the cellars where it was made then! I have made keg conditioned beer and it lasted for a month from first tapping till I drank the last pint, and it was in a good condition for the whole stretch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The keg must have a proper vent for this to work - if not you risk an explosion. Most brew kegs do have a valve and vent though - check! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use half the priming sugar you would for the bottles. You then must leave the keg somewhere warm for three days at least. This will boot the yeast back into life and they will convert the priming sugar to alcohol + CO2. Then you must move the keg somewhere cool for 2 weeks at least to let it settle. Then you can tap it, and it should be ok. However I think that normally a month of ageing is better. Lager need much longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17022" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T22:17:28.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-28T11:38:17.520" Score="3" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put an old packet of yeast into my beer and it is barely fermenting.  If I add a second type of yeast will the first one have any effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17025" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T22:27:03.023" Title="will two strains of yeast mess each other up" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-28T15:02:31.520" Score="1" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a Kristallweizen. I'd like to get most of the flavor of the hefe weizen been with no yeast and, but don't have access to filtering right now. What would be the best method(s) to force flocculation of hefe weizen yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about adding another high flocculating yeast in secondary and see if that helps bring the hefe yeast down, combined with a few days in cold crash. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3485" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T16:53:17.300" Title="How can you force flocculation of weizen yeast?" Tags="|cold-crash|hefeweizen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23921" CreationDate="2019-01-28T15:52:05.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you should be good to add the other packet as long as you do it quickly, for several reasons, mainly, the if wort was aerated, the new yeast can still feed on this oxygen for reproduction and cell-wall building; also, the wort will start oxidizing right away which will diminish your beer's flavor if it's not consumed quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if yeast doesn't start reproducing and take up all the nutrients your wort is at a very high risk of getting infected with bacteria, and then you won't have any beer at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you can get that beer going soon! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3485" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T15:52:05.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23922" CreationDate="2019-01-28T16:53:17.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed something like this a couple of months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wait until first fermentation has calmed down (not stopped), then rack to secondary and add some sugar to make fermentation go one, depending on the amount of headspace you still have. Use 4g/l of headspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let it sit at least two weeks so that fermentation is finished, you will see that there already will be a build up of yeast on the bottom of the fermenter (that is, if you have a transparent fermenter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can cold crash, then use this method to get more yeast out of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't cold crash, move your secondary to a cooler place for a couple of weeks, so that yeast can drop out further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even after cold crashing or storing at a cooler place, there will be enough yeast in the beer for carbonation. Bottle, carbonate and then condition in a cool room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes some time, but I was able to get a clear beer. It was actually a Leffe clone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When pouring from the bottle, take care not to stir up the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T16:53:17.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23921" CreationDate="2019-01-29T22:27:03.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, how to you know that the first yeast is barely fermenting? Do you judge just by bubbles from the airlock, or by gravity measurements? The former can be misleading, the latter are reliable. Maybe your fermentation is going well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it isn't, you'd better add the new yeast asap. Keep in mind, though, that whatever flavour profile had been produced by the first pack of yeast, it's gonna stay. This way, there will be impact on the end product. Also, whatever stress signals they expressed into your beer, those may also influence the newly added yeast. It's also likely that all oxygen in the beer has been consumed by the first pack, so make sure the new yeast you pitch is healthy and active (I heard that dry yeast already have enough lipids, btw, so they won't need much oxygen - just make sure you rehydrate them in lukewarm sterile water before pitching). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, yeast has no sex process, so the first pack will not interfere into fermentation character of the second one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T22:27:03.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23914" CreationDate="2019-01-29T22:30:08.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the must read for you: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/1603420894&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Tasting-Beer-Insiders-Worlds-Greatest/dp/1603420894&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More to that, BJCP judging guidelines recommend judges to abstain from eating too spicy or hot food even on the night before the judging. No coffee in the morning, and only water with plain crackers are allowed on tables while judging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T22:30:08.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23929" CreationDate="2019-01-30T13:12:27.347" Score="0" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make my Homebrew with the following materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 l non-alcoholic beer &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 tea spoon of yeast &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 kg sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have mixed them in carboy with airlock inside a dark room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, how long do I have to wait for fermentation?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And within 30 days, is it ready to drink or are there other steps? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best regards &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17033" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-01-31T15:06:17.177" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T21:25:42.263" Title="1st homebrew, how long to be ready? Any support and better recipes" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23928" CreationDate="2019-01-30T20:07:39.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's kind of hard to answer your question without knowing where you are. That said, if you're trying to convert non-alcohol beer by adding sugar and yeast, it's pretty doubtful that you'll be all that happy with the results. As far as I'm concerned, it'll never be ready to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tell us where you are, I'll edit this to reflect a much better solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edited to reflect where the OP lives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you can get barley and yeast, you may want to look into using other herbs.  I've had enjoyable beers made with basil and rosemary.  Rosemary will give it a flavor profile very similar to some of the hops with a &quot;piney&quot; flavor. Also, I know of one brew shop online who ships overseas (at least to service members), you may want to check out LabelPeelers.com .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would caution you to use malted barley.  The barley that you use for soups would be unsuitable. The yeast used to make bread is the exact same species as that which is used for making ale.  The only difference is that yeast for ale has &quot;grown up&quot; in an ale like environment, so if you can't get yeast, it'll work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastEditorUserId="7934" LastEditDate="2019-01-31T21:25:42.263" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T21:25:42.263" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23928" CreationDate="2019-01-31T15:16:48.910" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of your questions will be answered if you take a look at this : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Brew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, one week is enough to ferment a batch, and 2 weeks before bottling is enough to get a clear &quot;ish&quot; beer.  You can let it sit for a longer time if you want.  After you can bottle condition which adds about one week to the process, and after you will be able to drink it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as CharlieHorse mentionned, you might not be very pleased with the results, but you will see.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T15:16:48.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-01T21:08:30.060" Score="3" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I seem to be noticing that the beers I drink early on from my kegs taste less bitter than the last few beers. My kegs do not move for 1 to 2 months while they are being emptied. Is it possible that the hop oils are separating to the top during this time causing the last few beers to be more bitter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T22:28:21.717" Title="Does beer pulled early from a keg taste less bitter than those pulled later?" Tags="|aging|bitterness|packaging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23649" CreationDate="2019-02-02T14:40:38.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All that I needed was a beer conical (bar) tap instead of the regular ball valve one that I have bought from the hardware store. Problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16560" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T14:40:38.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23932" CreationDate="2019-02-03T13:39:06.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, the Hop bitterness in beer lessens over time. So, you should expect the first taste of the beer to be more bitter than the last drop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16201" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T13:39:06.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-03T23:51:37.860" Score="1" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got started with yeast cell counting and was surprised to observe yeast cells that are at different z axis depths at 400x.  That is, by adjusting the focus (not the x/y stage) I can make some cells go into view as others go out (there is some overlap in some cases but not always).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal?  It means that I will have to count at probably 2 different depths which I haven't seen anyone else talk about.  I had assumed everything would be visible at a single depth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible I did something wrong like not properly seating the cover slide. &#xA; My filling technique, based on some videos I watched, was to breathe on the cover slide and the hemocytometer, place the cover slide on and slide it around a bit, and then touch the dropper to the edge of the slide to fill the chamber (I did not observe any obvious overflow/overfill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16922" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T04:26:23.817" Title="Is it normal to see yeast cells stacked in the Z axis when counting yeast?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-05T09:53:37.110" Score="2" ViewCount="658" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without liquid in the 3 way airlock, is my brew now ruined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17048" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T20:52:22.677" Title="I forgot to put liquid in my airlock!" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23935" CreationDate="2019-02-05T15:30:53.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you only count what lay on the X,Y plane. The volume factor is based one cell depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cell stacking is usually not an issue, just dilute your slurry with pure water and adjust your volume factor accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T15:30:53.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23932" CreationDate="2019-02-05T15:38:00.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last couple pints can be more bitter if the beer had micro hop particles that settled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: If your beer gets hazy towards the end and increases in bitterness. You have a concentration of matter that CAN increase bitterness. This can be avoided with better fining of the beer before kegging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2019-02-05T20:33:01.507" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T20:33:01.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23936" CreationDate="2019-02-05T16:04:37.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;at the beginning, co2 production should push air out through the airlock.  So, it probably depends on how long it was left that way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17018" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T16:04:37.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23932" CreationDate="2019-02-05T22:28:21.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My version of the events is that beer wasn't &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; fermented initially, and those residual sugars initially masked bitterness, which, as sugars get fermented, becomes more prominent.&#xA;In keg setup the effect of that later fermentation may not be as visible, but I sometimes notice it with bottles (even when I bottle after I reach calculated FG and check FG readings over a week or so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T22:28:21.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23942" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-06T00:33:20.707" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;So i decided to try grape wine last year since my friend had a backyard full of grapes that were going to go to waste. My process ended up a little complicated and now I wonder if it’s still ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I harvested as many grapes as I could around the end of September. I took as many as I thought I’d need to fill a 25L Demi, crushed and started fermenting a must and froze the rest of the grapes. I didn’t add any sugar, and also managed to completely forget to take a hydrometer reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The must started up within a day and was pushing the skins to the top for about 4-5 days (stirring the skins back in 2-3 times a day) then over the next 2-3 days it slowed and seemed more of less done so I filtered it into a Demi. It ended up to be only about 20 L so I knew I had to get it topped up. Likely with what I had frozen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I got to making another small must I had to move. And whether it was the time it took to get settled in my new home or procrastination the 20L of wine sat in the Demi for about 2 months... By the time I got around to dealing with it I found it had a little patches of a white layer on top. I read it was typical with the space I had left, but it was salvageable. So I racked it to another Demi from the middle, below the top white layer and dosed it with campdon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time I had started a must with the grapes I had frozen. That fermented just as the last for about a week. Again I forget to measure hah. I pressed it and added it to the batch I recently racked. From racking I had lost a few L so I ended up still short..about 1.5L to be nice and full... I was out of grapes, a so I ended up adding some fresh, additive free grape juice, sealed it and moved on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put it in my cold cellar and within maybe 3 days or so it was bubbling fairly significantly. It’s been about 2 weeks now and it’s still got a slow but steady bubbles rising. Could it still be fermenting off the grape juice sugar I added? Or maybe it was stuck, or has some bacteria taken over or what..? Is it ruined? Or can I just dose it with campdon? I sort of didn’t want to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17051" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-23T14:28:33.940" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T15:01:50.227" Title="Staggered 2 primary fermentations. Then fermentation started in the Demi again. Is the wine ok?" Tags="|fermentation|wine|process|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-06T01:48:33.010" Score="0" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;The kit retailer supplies 2ea. 7liter bags for two kits to produce 60 bottles of wine. Can I combine the two grape juice bags into one batch to produce 30 bottles of wine? With the hopes of having better wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17052" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T19:55:30.577" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T05:19:56.223" Title="Combine kits into one batch" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23936" CreationDate="2019-02-06T18:03:16.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had it run dry (push out all the liquid) several times. I also use a cheap vodka, as it doesn't evaporate as fast. I've also had where the fermentation pushes into the airlock, then as activity stops, sucks it back in. Batch still turned out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17012" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T18:03:16.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23936" CreationDate="2019-02-06T20:52:22.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's almost certainly fine.  As Ken points out, CO2 production pushes air out of the airlock, particularly at the beginning.  The headspace in your fermentation vessel is predominantly CO2, so oxidation isn't much risk at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding contamination (a more likely issue anyway), the physical presence of an empty airlock should do a passable job of protecting your brew.  Airborne bacteria generally falls &quot;down&quot;, so it should have some difficulty with a 3-piece airlock (particularly if there's a gentle breeze of CO2 wafting it back out).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bugs might still crawl in, depending on where your fermentor is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, add some liquid and see how it turns out at the end - you're probably fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS - google &quot;open fermentation&quot; sometime, it will put your mind at ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T20:52:22.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23950" CreationDate="2019-02-07T22:51:42.870" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the ration of sugar to water for conditioning. For 2 Gallons and 5 Gallons(ie: 1/4 cup sugar to water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T16:18:03.007" Title="Priming when transfering to a second carboy" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23880" CreationDate="2019-02-07T22:59:24.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To much sugar and not enough water for your priming will result in beer bombs. I am struggling to figure the right ratio of sugar to water.&#xA;Made a Amber and priming was off got a couple beer bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T22:59:24.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23880" CreationDate="2019-02-08T12:59:24.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Is there any thing as too much priming sugar?&quot; The short answer is, 'yes.' There is a failure point on glass bottles where the pressure will cause them to explode, or if you just plan on kegging your beer, the extra carbonation will just give you glass after glass of foam. One good thing about over carbed kegs is you can off-gas the extra pressure to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to add 1/2 teaspoon or less of dry champagne yeast into your bottling bucket along with priming solution. Let is set for  5 - 10 minutes and bottle as you normally would. I've done this trick since my first batch and never had any issues with bottle conditioning. Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16201" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T12:59:24.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23946" CreationDate="2019-02-08T16:18:03.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One pound of table sugar will raise the ABV between 1.036 and 1.046 gravity points per gallon, or 1.007 to 1.009 per 5 gallons. Mixing the solution with a ratio of 1 part sugar to 1 part water. The idea is to dissolve the sugar without adding a lot of extra water to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16201" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T16:18:03.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-09T16:08:44.337" Score="2" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm pretty concerned about infections, seeing as my very first try ended in sauerkraut-smelling disappointment. I've got a gallon of quite sweet kiwi wine at about 16.5% ABV. The fermentation is now stopped by cold crashing followed by dose of Campden and potassium sorbate. However, the wine refuses to clear, so I was hoping to help it with some fining agents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I assumed that I should add Campden tablets anytime I open the carboy to prevent infections. However, that means I've added quite a lot already (I think 3-4 tablets for this one gallon over its lifetime) so would like to avoid adding more. Is it ok if I introduce the fining agents without a prophylactic Campden tablet? What about when bottling? Do I have to Campden my wine again to avoid accidental infection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16398" LastEditorUserId="16398" LastEditDate="2019-02-11T14:28:01.627" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T14:28:01.627" Title="Do I have to use Campden tablets every time I expose my wine to external factors?" Tags="|wine|campden|sterilization|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-10T00:56:54.790" Score="2" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;i’m having a problem with head retention in my latest brew. Is there anything I can do to improve the head once the bottle is opened ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17062" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T22:16:57.003" Title="Loss of Head retention" Tags="|sanitation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23951" CreationDate="2019-02-10T14:20:48.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said you added Campden and potassium metabisulfate. Did you know they are the same thing? (Sometimes they are sodium metabisulfate, but do essentially the same thing) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wine is not beer. Do not rush it. With grapes, it can take months for a wine to clear naturally. If you are in a hurry, try using some gelatin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not need to add campden tablets every time you open the wine. You really should set it and forget it. Like for months before you bottle it. 3-4 tablets for a gallon is complete overkill and I worry you might make yourself sick drink this wine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's ok to put some fining agents in without more Campden tablets. But less fiddling and more time what probably what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T14:20:48.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23952" CreationDate="2019-02-10T22:16:57.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you've opened the beer you can't improve its inherent head retention qualities, but you can give it a fighting chance by ensuring your glasses are totally free from any detergents which might prevent a head from forming. And before opening the bottle, give it plenty of time in the fridge to make sure as much of the co2 as possible is dissolved in the beer when you do open it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T22:16:57.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-10T23:53:58.327" Score="4" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been doing some research into pre-built electric all-in-one brewing systems (Robobrew, Grainfather, etc) vs DIY electric systems. The prevailing sentiment is that a DIY 110v 1500 watt system is not enough to achieve a full rolling boil, however the descriptions for the Robobrew and Grainfather systems are claiming that a full rolling boil can be achieved with this wattage. I've seen many reviews backing this up as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the fundamental differences between a pre-built system and what DIYers are doing? Are there links to any plans or reviews of DIY electric systems that achieve similar results and have similar specs to the pre-built systems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17066" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T02:38:10.630" Title="DIY 110 volt eBIAB sytem possible?" Tags="|equipment|boil-equipment|electric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23958" CreationDate="2019-02-11T18:27:27.763" Score="5" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently started to get my feet wet by making some ginger beers using a ginger bug to start the fermentation. &#xA;I would like to know the alcohol content of my final product, but as the ginger bug has both bacteria and yeast eating the sugars I can not figure out how I would measure the final alcohol content!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3 questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a way to figure out how much sugar has been consumed by either the yeast or bacteria, so I can then just use a hydrometer as suggested most places I search?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I measure the alcohol content by some other indicator besides sugar content?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What other tools might be used besides a refractometer or a hydrometer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastEditorUserId="17068" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T10:02:53.103" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T10:03:01.030" Title="Measuring alcohol when using ginger bug" Tags="|final-gravity|ginger-beer|measurements|wild-yeast|lactobacillus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23898" CreationDate="2019-02-11T18:41:46.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you use some of the ginger bug you simply add back the amount of liquid afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can keep it going for as long as you want, just keep feeding it ginger and sugar at regular intervals and it will keep bubbling along for as long as you want it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tip: if you don't need the ginger bug for a while you can put it in the fridge and only feed it once a week&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T18:41:46.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23956" CreationDate="2019-02-11T19:58:42.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a beginning gravity and an end gravity, it's pretty easy to figure an approximate ABV for your beverage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to definitively tell how much alcohol is in a solution is to run it through a &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.piwine.com/traditional-ebulliometer-allafrance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ebulliometer&lt;/a&gt;, which is essentially a tiny alcohol still. Sorry, that's the only real ways to do it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T19:58:42.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2019-02-15T17:03:31.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a beer kit with dextrose and it was delicious. Like, so delicious, I could hardly leave it in the bottle to wait to see how much more delicious it would get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I kept everything the same for the next batch, from the kit, to temps, to sanitation, carbonation, etc etc to a tee. Except I used table sugar. I didn't expect much of a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fermentation time was the same, everything was the same. Just that sucrose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second batch was.. Well let's say that I'm having no problems whatsoever leaving that one to see if it improves. Its... Well it's just not nice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the same with spirits wash. The only wash I made with sucrose, I had to run through the distiller twice to get anything even remotely drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sucrose for me, all the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17078" LastActivityDate="2019-02-15T17:03:31.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-17T04:39:57.613" Score="1" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a brand new keg. The keg isn't just new to me but totally unused. Do I need to use TSP to clean it prior to my first use? I'm worried about industrial residues that might be left on the stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12879" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T03:10:25.827" Title="Need to use TSP for a New Keg?" Tags="|keg|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23961" CreationDate="2019-02-18T03:10:25.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're at all worried, then I would clean it. It could be clear of all residues, depending on standards in the factory it was made in, or it could not be. The cost of cleaning it (in all senses, not just fiscally) is much lower than the cost of ruining a batch, or getting ill from ingesting the wrong thing. As cleaning and sanitation is most of what makes up brewing, I think it's always good advice to clean if you are ever uncertain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T03:10:25.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23964" CreationDate="2019-02-18T18:29:37.887" Score="1" ViewCount="516" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my ciders, I've always either pasteurized the juice when I've started with fruit, or else used pasteurized bottled juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that frozen concentrate should be a quick &amp;amp; dirty (well, hopefully not too dirty) method for incorporating different fruit juices without the hassle and expense of juicing fresh fruit.  Fresh fruit can be expensive around here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in regards to sanitation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to use frozen (no-preservatives-added) juice concentrate for the primary, without pasteurizing it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should I worry about boiling or pre-boiling the water used to reconstitute the concentrate?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How about commercially available frozen fruit?  I've heard of brewers racking beer or cider onto frozen fruit in secondary with good results, and others who were concerned about sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any expertise or experience!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T23:03:11.667" Title="Is it necessary to pasteurize frozen juice concentrate used for brewing?" Tags="|beer|cider|wine|sanitation|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23963" CreationDate="2019-02-18T23:03:11.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need to pasteurize your juice. Heating fruit juice only creates more problems. The biggest one is a pectin haze but heating also drives off flavor compounds you want in your juice. Think about how apple cider or wine is made. The fruit is quickly crushed and fermented, then sulfited for aging. It's really that simple&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frozen concentrate - just make sure you use filtered water and very clean equipment. Add a couple of campden tablets if you are wanting to suppress any wild yeast or mold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should either boil or treat your water with campden tablets to drive off the chloramine compounds put into tap water. Better yet get some RO water at the grocery store.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you have fermented a beer or cider, you have a certain degree of protection because of the alcohol. There is sugar in the fruit so it will start to ferment again for a while. Treat with sulfites if you are going to age this for a while to reduce oxidation and keep the bugs away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T23:03:11.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-20T05:20:00.427" Score="2" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you do the beer brewing in a big 20ltr cooking pot instead of the plastic drums that come with the brewing kit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17091" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T17:35:56.830" Title="Homebrewing in a cooking pot?" Tags="|brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2915" CreationDate="2019-02-20T11:58:33.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I combine the bubbles and yeast idea. Observation is a scientific approach. If you turn it upside down quickly and make some bubbles , there is definitely co2 released by the yeast. Oxygen alone may produce a little amount of bubles, but co2 bubles rushes up for a few seconds. You may notice a bit of this activity after the 1 week and it should be doubled in week 2. At the same time, even when the yeast at the bottom may only means the end of it's suspension it also means that the sugar frenzy was over and now yeast rest in peace. Also be patient and wait 2-3 weeks,that is part of the craftsmanship of making beer. Also, take notes of all the steps you've made during the process so you can share in a forum what you did exactly and by looking at the later you may also figure out what went wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17095" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T11:58:33.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22821" CreationDate="2019-02-20T12:21:15.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your carbonation is fine check in a clean beer Glass, then fill the bottle but if make it look like a 17 year olds first date and foam.it up, that's where your carbonation is going.... Foam is full of co2      then when the bubbles subside u lose carbonation. Keep the foam down,  low serving pressure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17096" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T12:21:15.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23965" CreationDate="2019-02-20T14:43:39.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep!  You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; ferment in a cooking pot if you wish, but keep reading.  The best fermentation vessels (like what pro brewers use) are indeed steel.  Plastic buckets are more susceptible to getting a scratch in them and harboring bacteria and letting light in which can damage a beer over time.  Glass carboys are heavy but won't scratch but let light in (so you cover it with a towel), can be a little tough to clean.  Steel conical fermentation vessels are considered the best, but are expensive and hard to move around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why doesn't everybody just us a big pot to ferment instead glass carboys/brew buckets? Well, it is going to be hard to seal it up and have a one way air lock so the off gas from fermenting can be released.  Once the wort is in the vessel you can't let any air get in there, otherwise bacteria can wreck your beer and/or have oxidation problems.  Brew buckets (pretty cheap) have a sealable lid with a little hole in the top what you can put a $1 air lock.  Glass carboys have a very small opening at the top where you put the air lock on.  So, if I were you I'd hit up my local homebrew store and get a bucket, should only be a few bucks for that and an air lock.  Later you can always upgrade to a glass carboy :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note you can ferment in a keg, just a wicked hassle to clean.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16388" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T14:43:39.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23965" CreationDate="2019-02-20T17:35:56.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your pot has a snug fitting lid, then you'll probably be able to just use that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing in the usual plastic fermenters with airlocks fitted into a grommet in a hole in the lid. However after the first couple of uses, the seal on the lid breaks and it's rare to see any bubbles coming out of the airlock because the gas is escaping through the gap between the lid and the bucket. Recent I bought a bigger fermenter and it didn't have a hole pre-drilled in the top, so I just used as is, with the lid not quite pushed down all the way round, and don't think it had any ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast will produce a very large volume of CO2 in the first couple of days, which will prevent air from getting in assuming it's not subject to a lot of turbulence, and if the opening to vent is small, and you're not moving the vessel around a lot, this should not be a problem. You may not want to leave your beer like this for a long time (e.g lagering) because eventually, however small the opening, the CO2 will probably mix with air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T17:35:56.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23973" CreationDate="2019-02-21T04:42:54.893" Score="4" ViewCount="919" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a lot of all-grain brewing systems, there's a hot liquor tank which basically just functions as a place to heat your water. As soon as the water is heated, it's drained into the mash tun which has the grain in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not just heat the water in the same tank as you mash in? It seems like a huge inefficiency to have another tank just to heat water in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17101" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T20:52:16.897" Title="Necessity of hot liquor tank" Tags="|all-grain|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23972" CreationDate="2019-02-21T13:10:02.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two answers, depending on size:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In largish setup, you may want to be able to heat water for second batch when you are mashing first one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To heat water fast, you want heating element to output a lot of power. It could burn your mash if used in the tank with grain. It is easier and more reliable to switch heater on full for 10% time than on 10% power continuously. That's your reason for smaller installations.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both situations, precise transfer of water is easier than transport of grains. If you put grains in the tank first, you can close it and use hot water pump to add hot water. No risk of spills landing on brewmaster. No open doors to cool your mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now imagine adding grain to hot water. You need bigger opening, so water cools in the process. Waste of energy. And safety risk at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, one tank systems exists and have their own merits. Both kinds make sense, for people who need specific upsides and can live with specific downsides of each way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="16388" LastEditDate="2019-02-21T15:36:07.567" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T15:36:07.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23972" CreationDate="2019-02-21T14:09:11.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One tank systems exist, mainly at a homebrew level. They are used for full volume mashes, BIAB (Brew in a bag, an unfortunate name), eBIAB and other electric recirculating mashing systems like Grainfather. Many, many homebrewers have adopted BIAB systems for ease and single vessel mashing. It doesn't scale up well for a commercial brewery, at least for traditional BIAB systems because of the weight of the mash when you pull the bag. But they do exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T14:09:11.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23972" CreationDate="2019-02-22T01:38:21.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also heat your strike and sparge water in your kettle, provided you are happy to either sparge into a holding tank, or do a no sparge lauter. Generally speaking, unless you're single vessel brewing, the HLT is for convenience. It's not necessary, but adds a boatload of flexibility to your system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T01:38:21.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23943" CreationDate="2019-02-22T05:19:56.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not clear exactly what you're asking, and I'm also not sure how combining the two kits will halve the number of bottles of wine you get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you saying that the supplier provides a kit which contains two bags of juice, and you have two kits, for a total of four bags of juice? And you want to know if you can combine all 4 bags of juice into one fermenter? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the question, then yes, you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to whether it will make better wine, that depends on the juice. Are all the bags the same? If they are, it will not change to quality of the wine, just the number of fermenters required. If they are different juices, then your preferences will dictate whether combining the juices improves or worsens the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T05:19:56.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-22T23:24:23.520" Score="-1" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started to build ebiab kettle and I got lost in NPT sizes, I have 7mm thermometer hole in my kettle and I don’t want to drill bigger, what size to choose?Planning to buy it from AliExpress or similar site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15270" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T15:01:10.417" Title="Please help me with the thermowell size" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24003" CreationDate="2019-02-24T11:44:20.727" Score="0" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started brewing with the grainfather about a year ago and have done 5+ brews. I have been milling my own grain from the start. All of the brews have had a problem with astringency: some more some less. So in my last brew I changed a number of parameters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I got the grain pre-ground from the shop to rule out that I was milling too fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did not wait until the very last drop of the sparge but removed the grain basket which there was a little dropping still going on. I let the basket drip into a bucket after this and around 1 litre of fluid was in there&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I set the temp of the boil to 98degC as I live at 500m+ (had nothing to do with astringency was just a coincidence)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grind looked good, there was a bit of flour and all grain were cracked or split. The sparge went noticeably better and quicker than with my own grind but it was still a healthy 40min. &#xA;The boil was not very vigorous: it was not hopping like a volcano but there was a very good circulation going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was this &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/article/neipa-style-profile/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/article/neipa-style-profile/&lt;/a&gt; recipe but changed a bit&#xA; - I went with 5kg of pale ale malt &#xA; - My boil was 60min&#xA; - I did a hop stand but just added the hops at 0min and left to stand for 30 mins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not measure the pre-boil gravity or the volume. I think the volume was a few litres more than it should be (but not many).&#xA;However I took a reading after racking and the gravity (at 20degc) was 1.048.&#xA;This is a whole 13 - 15 points less than it should be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it will probably turn out ok if a little weak and I am not obsessed with OG but I would like to hear some thoughts about what it could have been.&#xA;I don't think the extra litres could have had such a large effect and like I said the grain looked ok. Did it have something to do with the oats or wheat in the recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14539" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T23:20:41.237" Title="Just another efficiency question" Tags="|problems|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24086" CreationDate="2019-02-24T19:48:31.693" Score="2" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brew Irish Extra Stout and it's now supposed to go through fermentation. According to the manual 18 to 20°C is optimal. But I can only choose between 14°C in my cellar and 23°C in my flat. What should I choose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm tending towards 10 days at 14°C and then 4 days at 23°C. For other Ales this seemed to have worked always. But I never brew a Stout. So I would like to confirm that it is not overtly sensitive to low temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16084" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T18:51:08.687" Title="Fermenting Irish Extra Stout at 14°C vs at 23°C?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23834" CreationDate="2019-02-24T20:21:40.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After having made one last batch of the ale, this time without clove or nutmeg, I can confirm 100% that an excessive amount of clove was the culprit. I used about 10g of the stuff, and after having discussed with some guys at the microbrewery down the street, they agreed that I should have used &lt;em&gt;maybe 1g&lt;/em&gt; (a single clove, perhaps 2). I think my batch had about 15-20 for 2.5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point it is fairly obvious that clove more or less ruined the beer, and for future batches I will start with a much smaller amount and scale up to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you've never used an ingredient before, it's best to ask people who have to get their recommendations on quantity!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16151" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T20:21:40.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-24T22:02:10.617" Score="3" ViewCount="2623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a gallon of really sweet, 16.5% kiwi wine. The fermentation has not been completely stopped but haze didn't settle with time or after I used fining agent. A quick test with methylated spirit confirmed I am dealing with pectin haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to throw in a pectolase solution to my wine to break down pectin. I'm not sure how long I should let it sit before the enzyme has done it's job. Is it more like hours, days or weeks? Is if going to be obvious that the process has finished (i.e. will the broken down pectin then precipitate and settle down as sediment) or will I have to eyeball it and hit it with more fining agents later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16398" LastActivityDate="2019-10-26T06:01:50.207" Title="How long should I give pectic enzyme to takle hazy finished fruit wine?" Tags="|wine|pectic-enzyme|fruit-wine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-25T01:54:50.357" Score="0" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are brewing a Pliny clone, IPA with dry hopping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had an OG of 1.065, and racked to secondary six days later. Our current FG is reading 1.032, which is nowhere close to where we want to be. Initial fermentation with 1056 American Ale Yeast, started at 78°F, held at around 70°F for four days of active fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should we add more yeast at this point (15 days) to force more fermentation and raise alcohol level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17118" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-02-25T18:55:22.513" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T05:09:13.137" Title="Low FG on our IPA, can we force second fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|specific-gravity|secondary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23972" CreationDate="2019-02-25T15:34:53.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We heat the strike water in the boiler. &#xA;Mash in the cool box type mash tun.&#xA;Heat sparge in boiler.&#xA;Drain wort into fermented. Check volume and adjust sparge if needed.&#xA;Run sparge into mash tun.&#xA;Pump wort and sparge into boiler.&#xA;Start boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17120" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T15:34:53.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23981" CreationDate="2019-02-25T16:52:02.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only have experience with cider (and many thousands of gallons of grape wine, but it's not a problem with grapes). I put the enzyme in when I crushed the fruit (I suggest you do this next time) and it cleared very quickly in the secondary. It is usally less than a month. I suggest you wait a month or two, wine is about waiting, it's not beer. Gelatin could also work to settle a haze quickly. It sounds like it's not done fermenting either, which is going to continue to be a problem. When you start getting over 16%, fermentation can be sluggish and stall and/or never really finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T16:52:02.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23986" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-25T19:13:01.633" Score="1" ViewCount="1652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finnish my beer its fully carbonated and bottled on 22 oz bottles (co2 comes from priming sugar)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now.. can start the pasteurization process ?&#xA;or that only will work with forced carbonation beer ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17122" LastActivityDate="2023-06-21T16:05:11.410" Title="homebrew beer pasteurization?" Tags="|beer|pasteurization|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-25T21:27:43.747" Score="4" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing an imperial stout. It will have 10-12% ABV in the end (hopefully). I never used wood chips before, but want to add it to this beer. I read through guides but I read everything from just 24 hours to 2 months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have about 12 liters of the stout and want to add the chips next week after primary fermentation is done.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;How much do I add and how long?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer to do it for 2 weeks as I'm on vacation that time. My plan would be to fill a 100-150ml glas with the chips, soak them in whisky, drain, add to a bag and add the to the fermenter. Is this reasonable?&#xA;It would be better to be on the safe side and to don't have an overwhelming wood character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters, the beer will be bottled after the secondary and I want to wait until winter to drink it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16267" LastActivityDate="2019-05-03T06:02:15.410" Title="Amount of oak chips" Tags="|secondary|aging|oak|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23982" CreationDate="2019-02-26T05:09:13.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer kind of depends on what has caused the stall. Is your wort actually fermentable beyond that point? Was the yeast healthy? Are your measurements correct? If the problem is a wort problem, then adding yeast will not help, unless it is a diastatic yeast. You could add an enzyme in this case, to continue converting the wort. If you pitched enough healthy yeast, it's unlikely that racking to secondary before primary had actually finished would be problematic, though I would usually wait until I got a LOT closer to terminal before racking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;70 F is maybe a little warmer than I would do, but shouldn't have caused your problem. My best guess would be a wort issue, or you simply rushed primary. Adding more 1056 is unlikely to hurt, but may not help that much either. I'd say give it a burl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a little confused about your timeline - did you do primary for 4 or 6 days? Do you mean that for 4 days the airlock was bubbling, then it wasn't for 2 days, then you racked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T05:09:13.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23987" CreationDate="2019-02-26T07:33:36.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question of how much to add and how long is like asking how much salt to put into your food. It depends on the food and your taste. That's why the recommendations you've come across vary so widely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that it's all about balance: the more massively bodied and flavored your beer is, the more oaking you can get away with. In an impy stout you can probably use quite a bit. So experiment. Start with an ounce or so for a week or so and see what comes out of it, then increase or decrease accordingly for your next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T07:33:36.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23986" CreationDate="2019-02-26T07:38:59.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pasteurizing home brewed beer is rarely done for two reasons: it's complicated, and you don't really need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pasteurizing beer is done in industrial breweries to preserve the beer and kill all residual yeast, because the brewery wants the beer to remain 100% the same once it goes out the door. This is not as critical with home brewed beer. Furthermore, the yeast in a homebrew bottle acts as a natural preservative by removing the oxygen from the beer (and about 30-40% from the head space as well) which gives the beer an extended shelf life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: if you practice good sanitation and bottle condition your beer you don't need pasteurizing!! In fact, pasteurizing a bottle conditioned beer kills the yeast and prevents it from further developing the flavor of the beer as it matures. So for a bottle conditioned beer  pasteurization is in fact the last thing you want!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that pasteurization destroys some of the flavor. This is fine for industrial lagers that have little flavor to begin with, but not for a home brew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your final question, pasteurizing can only be done on the fully carbonated, packaged beer. The beer is force-carbonated, bottled, capped and then pasteurized, bottle and all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T07:38:59.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23979" CreationDate="2019-02-26T19:27:56.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on your yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some yeasts do very well under colder temps, other drop out and go dormant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some do well at higher temps, other create fusel alcohols, or other off flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My  suggestion is choose the yeast that is best suited for your environmental temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T19:27:56.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23972" CreationDate="2019-02-26T20:52:16.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why not just heat the water in the same tank as you mash in? It seems like a huge inefficiency to have another tank just to heat water in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could heat water in your mash tun, providing it was a kettle with a false bottom (as opposed to a cooler with a false bottom) a then add grain, but then you would still need an external way of heating your sparge water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a basic batch-sparge system, the reason for the hot liquor tank is gravity. Your hot liquor tank (which is a misnomer, really a hot water tank) is the highest container, so you can use gravity to rack to your mash and lauter tun, then gravity again to rack to your boil kettle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55LAo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55LAo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a very rudimentary, batch sparge system, with one tun (a 10g igloo cooler with a temperature gauge and a valve), one burner, one kettle (8g with temp gauge and valve) and a few buckets. I have to swap elevations of the kettle and tun each time I want to transfer and I cannot transfer my mash to my kettle since I need it to heat up my sparge water. I have to rack it to a bucket, then rack the bucket to the kettle after I'm done transferring my sparge water to the tun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've thought about another kettle, burner and tun, but not for a gravity system, so I can do two 5 gallon batches in parallel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T20:52:16.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-26T22:22:53.887" Score="2" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;When measuring hops for dry hopping, do I need to sanitize the cup I put the hops in on my scale? I recently started buying hops in bulk and I've never had to weigh hops before pouring them into the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17127" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T00:03:43.757" Title="Dry Hopping Measuring Cup" Tags="|hops|sanitation|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-26T22:53:47.640" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to transfer 12 bottles of regular beer to a 1 gallon bottle.  I will also be adding some oak spirals to the 1 gallon bottle for aging of the beer.  I estimate that it will take about 6-7 minutes to  transfer this beer to the 1 gallon bottle.  My question is how much carbonation tablets will I need to add to the 1 gallon bottle to compensate for the lost of Co2 which will happen during transfer.  Also how much oak spirals will I need to add to the 1 gallon bottle to improve this beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17128" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T00:59:01.863" Title="Recarbonating Beer" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23995" CreationDate="2019-02-27T00:03:43.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes keep it clean, but no you do not need to sanitize it, the properties of finished beer and the properties of the hops will keep most spoilage organisms at bay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T00:03:43.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23935" CreationDate="2019-02-27T04:26:23.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'Is this normal?'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's common, but (as you suspect) it's not ideal for counting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've see this a lot and, for the most part, find it's usually just a matter of leaving the slide to sit for a few minutes to let the cells settle before proceeding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue can be how well-mixed your sample is. I've seen strains that need a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of shaking (once in suspension) to cause the clumps of yeast to separate enough to be counted. Here's a picture I took recently of a particularly troublesome one (NB the distinct layering of cells):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0jjUZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0jjUZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you continue to see this happen try agitating the sample more before loading the slide. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.asbcnet.org/lab/getstarted/Documents/Yeast-4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ASBC's method&lt;/a&gt; recommends the suspension be &lt;em&gt;&quot;mixed for a minimum of 5 min using [a] magnetic stirrer before filling the hemocytometer.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any yeast that is chain-forming (e.g. many hefeweizen strains) may cause issues as well, since the strong cell-to-cell bonding can result in a distinct three-dimensional structure of the chain that can't be easily disrupted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible your dilution is not high enough (as EvilZymurgist suggests). I generally feel comfortable with a dilution that leaves you with ~5-10 cells in each of the smallest counting squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;'It is possible I did something wrong'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless your slide or cover is dirty, or you are seeing gas bubbles (either air or CO2) in or above the sample, I don't think it would be an issue of your technique, but that's hard to know for sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; only have to count cells in a single plane. Otherwise, something probably isn't quite right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T04:26:23.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6971" CreationDate="2019-02-27T19:18:40.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere that WLP565, AKA &quot;The Dupont Strain&quot; may have originally been a red wine yeast so it is definitely possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I will check my library and get back with a citation for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T19:18:40.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-27T23:32:55.293" Score="1" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am still having mash efficiency issues. Here's my original post: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/23355/poor-mash-efficiency-help-please&quot;&gt;Poor mash efficiency - help please&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my last brew, I was trying to do a double IPA for 8.8% IOG: 1.08 but ended up with 1.06. I even did a reiterated mash which I thought was almost fool proof...Also did an iodine test which turns out doesn't mean what I thought it meant (realise now it's about starch conversion, but that starch has to be adequately released first for the test to matter). Anyway, here are the things I have tried and still getting terrible efficiency:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stirring Mash - every 15 mins or so&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash time   - 60-70 mins + mashout&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grind   - grind my own grain and have a bit of flour, can't grind much finer. I do need to get a feeler gauge though to ensure it's the same measure each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water ratio - have increased this from earlier to 3.5l/kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash Acidity - High - corrected down to 5.2-5.3ph&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot Sparge   - Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iodine test - Yes (never ends up black after 40 mins)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water - generally add a small amount of calcium chloride&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other considerations would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16415" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T06:21:33.233" Title="Poor mash efficiency part 2" Tags="|mash|efficiency|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23996" CreationDate="2019-02-28T00:59:01.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way (short of a lab test) to have confidence in the remaining carbonation level is to let the beer warm up to room temperature so that most of the carbon dioxide leaves the liquid.  Then you can calculate the priming sugar additions as per normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, please ensure your &quot;1 gallon bottle&quot; vessel is pressure rated! 1 Gallon / 4 litres of beer is a lot to lose in an uncontrolled beer fountain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not possible to say how many oak spirals to use, but I would start with one.  There's some good information here - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fermentarium.com/homebrewing/brewing-beer/add-oak-to-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.fermentarium.com/homebrewing/brewing-beer/add-oak-to-beer/&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's absolutely possible to over-oak your beer too.  All those tannins can become mouth-puckering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps it might be best to put the beer onto oak in the &quot;1 gallon bottle&quot;, but do not add any priming sugar.  Leave the beer for 1 week, then taste.  Repeat until the desired amount of oak flavour is obtained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're happy with the flavour of the beer, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; re-bottle with priming sugar to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T00:59:01.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24000" CreationDate="2019-02-28T23:16:20.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you confident that your recipe design calculations are correct? Are you confident that your grain specs are right and that the grain is of adequate quality? &#xA;All of the measures you have taken should get you pretty good conversion efficiency, so I would start investigating your lauter efficiency and your grain quality.&#xA;I would also double check (if you haven't already) the accuracy of your scales and your volume measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you tell me how you design your recipe, and what efficiency you calculate for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give you a comparison, I usually mash for 60 minutes and would stir maybe twice excluding dough in, I uusually adjust my ph to be spot on, but not always. I'm always between 5.2 and 5.8 though. I mashout at 78 celsius, and sparge at the same temperature. I grind my own grain (unknown gap, but all kernels are split, and there's a little flour). I acidify my sparge water with lactic acid down to about the same ph as the mash. I usually get 82-92% efficiency this way. My brew length is 50L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T23:16:20.260" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23978" CreationDate="2019-02-28T23:20:41.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My money would be on oversparging. You said the preboil volume was high. What's the batch size? A few litres is a lot in a 20L batch. I would recommend measuring preboil gravity and volume as a rule, if you take these measurements and know your normal boiloff rate, you can correct most gravity related issues before they become issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you normally get closer to your target gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T23:20:41.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-01T12:32:01.157" Score="2" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those blood glucose devices used to control diabetes disease, can them measure anything in beers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could them display different values of different beers? How do they work compared to hydrometers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how about using them to measure sugars in worts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="6404" LastEditDate="2019-03-01T12:37:31.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T14:41:24.420" Title="Can blood glucose devices measure anything in beers?" Tags="|sugar|measurements|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-01T15:09:19.190" Score="1" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.midwestsupplies.com/simply-beer-brewing-starter-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Midwest Supplies Beer, Simply Beer&lt;/a&gt; kit vs the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewersbestkits.com/equipment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Brewer's Best 1000&lt;/a&gt; kit?  They seem pretty comparable, but I'm curious if I'm overlooking something because I'm a newb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I have a 5 gal kettle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17133" LastActivityDate="2019-07-31T13:35:15.250" Title="Comparing beginner homebrew kits?" Tags="|kits|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-01T17:29:31.913" Score="1" ViewCount="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making blackberry wine, is there any cheap and easy way to find the alcohol content after brewing? (Ive lost my barometer reading from before)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17134" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T17:29:31.913" Title="Is there an easy way to test alchol content after brewing wine?" Tags="|wine|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-03-03T15:20:21.603" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24005" CreationDate="2019-03-01T22:30:36.437" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;biggest difference is simply beer comes with a pale ale. &#xA;both have pretty much the same stuff in them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T22:30:36.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24004" CreationDate="2019-03-02T14:41:24.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're talking about something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diabetesforecast.org/2014/05-may/anatomy-of-a-cgm-sensor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, you could stick it in beer, but it probably won't give you any truly useful information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensors use an enzymatic reaction to determine glucose levels in the liquid. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glucose_oxidase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The enzyme&lt;/a&gt;, however, is specific to glucose and won't detect any other sugars (for this reason it's really not comparable to a hydrometer). Glucose makes up ~10-15% of the &lt;em&gt;fermentable&lt;/em&gt; sugar in any wort (the rest being virtually all maltose and maltotriose) and is the first to be assimilated by yeast (often in a matter of hours). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glucose sensor could, therefore, serve as a decent indicator of the very early stages of fermentation, allowing monitoring of the drop in glucose levels, and this may provide valuable information for those willing to try. But it's probably only worthwhile if you already have one around as I think it might be hard to justify choosing it over other indicators of early fermentation action (especially pH).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you'll be limited to only the detection of glucose (whether you measure wort, beer, sugar syrups, extracts etc), and in the broad picture this is not terribly meaningful information, especially for the average homebrewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T14:41:24.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-03T15:03:58.100" Score="2" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made wine from the Primeur winery series and after two days still have no sign of bubbling from the fermenter. I did all as per the instructions except following (that I think is the reason for no bubbling):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boiled the oak chip then added to primary fermenter while it was still warm;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put LALVIN-EC-1118 into warm water (40-45 degree C) then added to the fermenter instead of adding directly to the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Specific gravity was read as 1124.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me settle this problem. I have contacted the seller, but the shop is closed today and tomorrow. What do I have to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17137" LastEditorUserId="15902" LastEditDate="2019-04-08T12:18:25.087" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T12:18:25.087" Title="No sign of fermentation after two days" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24009" CreationDate="2019-03-03T21:48:13.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bubbling in the airlock is a sign of fermentation, but just because you don't see bubbles, doesn't mean it's not fermenting. Fermentation could be slow, or it could be so quick that it's done bubbling while you were not looking. A leaky seal may let co2 escape from a bucket without bubbling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to really know is to take daily gravity readings. If that number goes down, fermentation is (still) going. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your batch is not fermenting, there may be a problem with the yeast. You may have  pitched too hot (45C sounds a bit on the hot side to me, but check the manufacturer's recommendations) or the yeast could have been very old, or it could have been damaged in transport. In these cases, you'll need to get new yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T21:48:13.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24013" CreationDate="2019-03-05T00:57:00.513" Score="3" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several wild hop vines growing near me, and I'd like to try a few SMaSH brews to see what the flavour is like. I have some recipes, but they all use pellet hops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a good conversion from pellet to wet hops so I can figure out how much I need to harvest and use on brew day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8538" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T11:49:22.487" Title="Converting recipe from pellet hops to wet hops" Tags="|hops|all-grain|smash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24012" CreationDate="2019-03-05T10:24:30.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pellet hops are considered 15% more efficient at utilization than dry hops (according to Charles Faram) meaning for 100g of pellets you would need 115g of dry hops for the same recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the information in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5115/what-is-wet-hopping-and-how-does-it-differ-from-dry&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; you can then convert the weight of dry hops to wet hops. The answer there says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Fresh hops weigh 4-6 times more than their dry counterpart, so this&#xA;  needs to be taken into account when weighing. For example, if you&#xA;  normally dry hop with 15g (1/2oz), then you'll need to wet hop with around&#xA;  60-90g (2-3oz) of fresh hops.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have 100g of pellet hops in your recipe, convert that to 115g dry hops then convert that to 460-690 wet hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastEditorUserId="3032" LastEditDate="2019-03-07T11:49:22.487" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T11:49:22.487" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-05T19:13:23.283" Score="3" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend recently gave me the idea of making a kombucha-inoculated beer. Having never done it before, the principle seems fairly straightforward to me (this is my own guesswork):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ferment kombucha as normal (done!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prepare base beer recipe/wort, let it cool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch enough kombucha starter to inoculate wort (for my 8L batch, about 1L of starter according to normal &lt;em&gt;kombucha&lt;/em&gt; ratios)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it ferment normally as with any other yeast pitch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that this would inoculate the wort with the bacteria and yeast I want (Lactobacillus and Brettanomyces). It, in theory, should slightly sour and acidify the wort, and of course ferment it. Let's assume I have an OG of about 1.060 using primarily 2-row malt, nothing too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things I'm not sure about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is approximately 1/8 wort volume enough kombucha starter to get fermentation going (1L for 8L of wort)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the kombucha SCOBY actually ferment down the beer appropriately (e.g. below 1.020) - or do I need to pitch additional yeast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will hop additions during the boil later kill the bacteria in the SCOBY when I pitch?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I doing this all wrong and there's a better way?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the end product should be a fermented, slightly sour and acidic wort with more or less the same qualities as kombucha in terms of flavor, but with a slight malt backbone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS - I could use some other Lactobacillus-laden product to sour the wort, but I thought that since I have mature kombucha sitting on my counter I may as well use it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16151" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T06:51:46.877" Title="Pitching kombucha starter instead of yeast" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|beer|bacteria|kombucha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24000" CreationDate="2019-03-05T19:26:25.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that your robobrew (relatively) sucks at the mash. I have a few different mash vessels and I get different efficiency from the square cooler than the nice round Igloo. The Igloo does a fantastic job 80+ percent, the square one 65-70 percent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grain can also get you. My mill is set to run a standard 2 row malt. I get Marris Otter and the grains are smaller, so they don't completely get crushed like the 2 row. I get a little less efficiency (meh). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general I think your robobrew is just fine. Adjust your brew to match the efficiency you are getting and add $1.50 more grain to even it out... If you really really want more efficiency then crush the grain a little more, if it's not a stuck mash then it will be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of all, keep brewing and don't worry so much. I think Denny Conn said it best &quot;Grain wants to be turned into beer&quot;. I think it's our job to help it along.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T19:26:25.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13478" CreationDate="2019-03-06T12:07:25.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to add,that this is an 'American' question with an 'American' answer.&#xA;As the US gallon is 3.78541 Litres, and the UK gallon is 4.54609 Litres, we see that making up a solution to one gallon in each case will result in the UK measurement being lower than the US measurement. and so for the SG case in question,ie,- 1046, we get,  3.78541 divided by 4.54609, and then multiplied by 46. answer,-  38.1786182547, If you want to be exact.&#xA;However, different manufacturers of ord' cane sucrose vary greatly. The scale on my UK suchrometer (hydrometer) gives me less than 6% ABV from one pound of sugar solution, with the mark on it at 1036.5.  As ord' sugar ferments to near zero it can be seen that as the multiplying factor for sugar is .1632 then,-  36.5 x .1632 = 5.9568%, hope this helps someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T12:07:25.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24034" CreationDate="2019-03-07T05:04:18.780" Score="4" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obligatory: This is my first batch of Mead and I'm still learning the ropes. If I've made any critical mistakes, please point them out but do know: odds are, I had no idea of that particular issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a batch of traditional mead, following every step and ingredient used by these guys City Steading on Youtube: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ildRSUSWmc8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ildRSUSWmc8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My issue:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm almost two weeks in, and my hydrometer reading has almost not changed whatsoever. For the one gallon batch, my OG is 1.109 and current is 1.105. The carboy almost always has bubbles in the carboy, the airlock is bubbling about once every 10 seconds as of yesterday morning, and I've been shaking it to aerate for the past week. The room it's in is generally kept at 65F, deviating slightly above during the day and below during the night by about 2 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I repitch my yeast? Or am I making any stupid mistakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17147" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T13:49:02.463" Title="Stuck Mead Fermentation?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|mead|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24018" CreationDate="2019-03-07T06:26:26.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let it ride.  Chances are at that high of an original gravity you weren't able to aerate it ideally unless you injected straight oxygen in for a hot minute, but it's nothing to be too concerned about.  A mead at that high of a gravity is going to take a while to ferment.  Just give it time, or if you are paranoid because honey is bonkers expensive, an additional bit of yeast and a tablespoon of yeast nutrient shouldn't hurt it either.  Either way, time is the best answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I should recommend, shaking it now to aerate it isn't a bad idea, and likely won't be for a couple of days, but I'd recommend discontinuing the practice unless you want your mead to stale quicker than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T06:26:26.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24014" CreationDate="2019-03-07T06:51:46.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to play it safe, over-pitch (sorta) by pitching a regular amount of yeast to ferment the beer, and as a secondary fermentation pour in a bottle of your favorite basic kombucha with no flavor additions after the first fermentation has completed.  The hops may slow the souring, but in reality, that's probably a good thing unless you're aiming for a malt vinegar flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd definitely drink it fresh and not wait long.  Carbonation is going to be an exciting roller coaster of experience with this one.  As a side note, I'm curious to hear of your experience when you taste it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T06:51:46.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24012" CreationDate="2019-03-07T11:22:00.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have dried dozens of batches of freshly harvested homegrown hops to learn that they average 20-25% solids or overall about 22% solids, which means the primary multiplication factor should be 4.5 (i.e., 4.5 times 0.22 = 1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most sources say utilization from pellets is about 10% more than whole hops.  So this means the total should also be multiplied by 1.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.1 times 4.5 = a grand factor of 4.95 or about 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used this factor many times, with great results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-03-07T11:27:44.753" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T11:27:44.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-07T19:48:25.873" Score="0" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went all grain BIAB straight off, recipe was kind of my own:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10l batch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1kg marris otter malt barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1Kg wheat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100g oats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40g hallertauer hops in total &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;400g enhancer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;packet of witbier yeast (mangrove jacks) 8%&#xA;alc tolerance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;got a OG of 1.062 which I thought was high for this kind of beer and I was planning to add apricot puree from cans in a few days but starting to think this is a bad idea and is going to make the beer even sweeter. if people think this is not the case how long shall I wait before putting them in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also didn't do a starter for my yeast and I boiled away too much wort so I just boiled a standard electric kettle and topped it up at the end of the boil (don't know if this is a problem).&#xA;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im also thinking about bottles exploding if there's too much sugar left?&#xA;What kind of final gravity will be okay for bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17149" LastActivityDate="2019-04-07T04:06:26.227" Title="First Brew got a high OG and planning to put apricots in the fermenter, will the yeast be able to get the sugar before the alcohol kills it off?" Tags="|all-grain|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24022" CreationDate="2019-03-08T03:04:35.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding apricot puree will be fine, I would add it a bit before you reach terminal gravity, personally. The apricot should not add much sweetness, as the majority of the sugars will be fermented out. Adding the water was fine, it will have lowered your OG a bit. In terms of bottling, the exact gravity doesn't matter much, as long as it's not changing unexpectedly. When you think the beer is done, measure the gravity every day. If it doesn't change over 3 days, you can be confident that it's done. At that point, it's safe to add priming sugar and bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T03:04:35.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24025" CreationDate="2019-03-08T20:34:58.227" Score="0" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of my beers where I live now have been astringent (5 or so). Some more some less. I found one of the culprits after lots of research: I have incredibly high alkalinity (400ppm CaCO3). So I have decided to mix my own water with destilled water and the usual salts. Now I am worried about oversparging. Presuming I construct ideal water and calculate my mash and sparge water using the usual method, do I still need to worry about oversparging? If so how do I go about avoiding this on the grainfather? I've never read a detailed technique anyway. Keep sampling the sparge runoff every 5 mins and test the pH using a meter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14539" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T11:00:55.137" Title="Oversparging grainfather" Tags="|all-grain|sparge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24024" CreationDate="2019-03-09T10:23:18.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sparging efficiency is, generally speaking, not a factor of water chemistry. By changing your high alkalinity tapwater to distilled water with added salts you should see no difference in sparging efficiency, and the same sparging volume as you used before should work fine without introducing a risk of oversparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a pH meter on your runoff is also not very useful; it won't tell you anything about when to stop sparging. The tool of choice to determine that is a hydrometer or refractometer. (The latter is easier to use because cooling  down a drop of green wort to the instrument's calibration temperature is much quicker than cooling a tube full of wort.) Test your wort gravity regularly during the sparging process; for an average strength beer you don't want to go below 1.008 in order to prevent oversparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T10:23:18.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-09T10:29:01.853" Score="2" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3 vessel setup (hot liquor tank + mash tun + wort kettle) in a single tier setup so I need to pump liquid from one vessel to another, but I only have one pump, so I batch sparge: transfer wort from the mash tun to the wort kettle, then top up the mash tun with sparging water from the hot liquor tank -- rinse and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is better, both in terms of wort quality and mash efficiency:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keeping the grain bed covered in water and topping up with more&#xA;sparging water before it starts runninng dry,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;letting the grain&#xA;bed drain completely before adding more sparging water?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to avoid running the grain bed dry, but I'm often struggling to hit my target gravity, and at the end of the day there's still a ton of sugars left in the spend trains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opinion on both options with pros and cons would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T03:09:07.507" Title="Batch sparging: let the grain bed run dry or not?" Tags="|all-grain|sparge|batch-sparge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-10T02:52:41.707" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting ready to bottle my 6 month old sour. I used WLP648 on primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve been reading up on this on other forums, but I get mixed insights: some people say to just go ahead per normal, others pitch additional yeast and some other say you shouldn’t be using regular bottles due to Brett attenuating fast (risking bottle bombs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone can shed some light on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T07:03:00.607" Title="Priming a Brett beer (WLP648) for bottling" Tags="|priming|sour|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-11T15:01:27.453" Score="2" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Next weekend I’m planning to brew a tripel and the recipe includes some table sugar. I usually add the sugar a few days in, after high krausen to reduce the stress on the yeast (= no starter required) in the form of a boiled-cooled sugar solution. But this brew is going to take place at my parents and myself won’t be around during the week(s) after to make the solution. I don’t want to bother the old folks with the amount of work and responsibility to make the solution, so I was wondering, why not add the sugar to the beer in its solid, powder form? It is much less work to dump it straight in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few drawbacks I could think of. One is the sugar not dissolving. When it is dumped in, it will probably make a pile at the bottom of the fermenter. I think it eventually will all dissolve and due to the activity of the yeast there is a ‘flow’ in the liquid. The other one is sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts? Go or no-go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T08:56:42.180" Title="Solid sugar to primary" Tags="|sugar|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-11T15:40:56.650" Score="1" ViewCount="715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finished a German Wheat beer that I kettle soured and then I made a franken-beer shandy with a couple of gallons of the leftover wort. Neither of these beers seems to have kept their carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first beer was force carbed. When filling I did not bleed my keg, I just lowered the pressure and then bottled with 2-3 psi from the keg using a Last Straw bottle filler. Since my filler is a Last Straw, it can purge O2 and then fill easily. It fills by pressing the nozzle to the bottom of the bottle to let the beer flow and fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More often than not it foams like crazy so I fill a bottle as best as I can and then move on to maybe 1-2 more than go back and top off the first bottle and cap it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that amount of time could affect my carbonation that much could it? I'm not getting any off-flavors from oxidation or anything in my beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: When force carbing the keg was rolled on its side like usual until the regulator was silent.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shandy was low and slow and was keg carbonated and is carbonated when served from the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now opening the bottles at a homebrewer meeting there is initial carbonation but then it dissipates rapidly and then there is barely some residual carbonation in the beer and no head at all (previously had a nice creamy one) or much discernable carb. I also filled a vacuum-sealed growler with my shandy beer and it also had no carb when it was opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What gives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE: There was no contamination or off flavors in my original beer or my franken-shandy.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Recipe Details&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG - 1.030&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FG - 1.007&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added 2 oz of fresh lime zest to the last 10 mins of my boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Kmih.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Kmih.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pitched two packets of Safale US-05. Ferment at 65°F (18°C) for 10 days and packaged as described above. 2.6 oz of fresh lime zest was added to the fermenter 8 days into fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15277" LastEditorUserId="15277" LastEditDate="2019-03-14T22:25:52.620" LastActivityDate="2019-09-08T13:51:36.970" Title="Carbonation dissipates very quickly after opening bottled beer" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24028" CreationDate="2019-03-12T05:56:48.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another issue with dumping dry sugar in is that you'll get a big foam up. I made this mistake once on a 6 hectoliter scale. Not recommended. I would recommend doing your usual boiled/cooled solution (I do this as well), but just prepare it ahead of time, store it in a convenient bottle or bottles, and keep it in a cool place. It shouldn't be any more effort for your parents to open the lid and pour the solution in than it would to dump sugar in, and there'll certainly be a lot less cleanup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T05:56:48.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24027" CreationDate="2019-03-12T06:00:54.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the brett has completely finished (check with gravity readings), then you're fine to bottle with whatever yeast you like. If you're worried the brett will take too long, bottle with something like T-58. Once all your tricky-to-eat sugars have been fermented, you're past the risk of bottle bombs, unless you introduce a diastatic strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T06:00:54.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24026" CreationDate="2019-03-12T21:12:47.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We sparge because we're interested in dissolving more of the sugars from the grain into solution. There are some physical principles when dissolving, like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A more concentrated sugar solution dissolves sugar more slowly than a weak solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot water dissolves sugar more quickly than cooler water. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sugar only dissolves if it's in contact with the water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To maximise dissolved sugars, you want to maximise time in contact with the grain, minimize the concentration of sugars in the water, and maximise the water temperature (but not past ~80C to avoid extracting tannins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fly sparging maximises contact with a weaker solution as you're continually running off the stronger solution. But fly sparging runs foul of grains not being in contact with water if the grain bed is poor or if the water level drops below the level of the grain bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's a right way to sparge, but batch sparging is IMO a whole lot simpler. You can simply give the grain bed a stir to maximise contact with lower concentration solutions - maybe lauter before running off the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15679" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T21:12:47.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24018" CreationDate="2019-03-13T02:52:38.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bet is you underpitched and just need to add more yeast.  Pitching 1/5 the packet into 1 gallon is fine for an OG of 1.050, but at a gravity of 1.109 you need at least twice that amount.  I would have pitched a whole pack or at least 1/2 a pack in 1 gallon to ensure sufficient yeast growth and health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that.... often times with mead, all you really need is patience.  Lots of patience.  Give it a month or three.  It's going to take time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't worry much about aeration and my meads turn out great anyway.  Time is the biggest thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers, good luck, enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T02:52:38.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24036" CreationDate="2019-03-13T06:53:16.080" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4111/avoiding-trub-in-bottles-post-primary-fermentation&quot;&gt;Related&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a batch of cider that has just finished primary fermentation. My last batch come out with a lot of sediment and yeasty flavors which I'm trying to avoid with this batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the OP in the related question, I don't currently have any secondary / racking equipment and I'm trying to avoid purchasing too much more equipment right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The accepted answer to the question recommends against bottling from the tap on the side of the fermenter because&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My trub is always up to the level of the port inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and I'm wondering if this is any different for cider because the sediment that has settled so far is not up to the level of the port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been sold some Colloidal Silicon Dioxide as a fining agent and I'd like to know if this alone will allow me to bottle directly from the tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also wondering if it would be a good idea to leave the cider in the fermenter for a while after adding the Silicon Dioxide. My fermenter is only half full with the current batch and I've read that disturbing the Carbon Dioxide layer when there's a lot of headspace can be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17169" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T17:22:14.277" Title="Cider clarification with minimal equipment" Tags="|cider|clarity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24035" CreationDate="2019-03-13T12:47:39.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a couple of things. Racking is normally part of the process to get the cider off the yeast so it doesn't taste too yeasty. If you can't find carboy to rack it into, you should bottle it immediately. The second problem you are going to run into is oxidation. Extended storage in a glass carboy with very little headroom is what you want. Like and inch or two from the airlock. if you don't add some metabisulfites for aging even for a couple of weeks, you will have a bad oxidation problem. I've never heard of Colloidal Silicon Dioxide being used as a fining agent. Pectic Enzyme is typically used during fermentation to break down the pectic haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2019-03-13T17:22:14.277" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T17:22:14.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24028" CreationDate="2019-03-14T08:56:42.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sugar will initially sit on the bottom and eventually dissolve and ferment out, but this will take some time. How long depends on the amount of sugar, its distribution in the fermenter and the amount of active yeast present. Sanitation should not be an issue, since it's difficult to get an infection from sugar (which dehydrates any bacteria that comes into contact with it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frazbro has a point: depending on the CO2 content of the beer under ambient pressure (which is an inverse of temperature) there will probably be some foaming. But given the low amount of CO2 this should not be a problem. I'd advocate sprinkling in a few tablespoons of sugar, giving it 10 minute or so, then add the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, care should be taken to minimize the amount of oxygen ingress into the beer. Pour the sugar in slowly rather than dump it all into the beer on one big splash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T08:56:42.180" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24029" CreationDate="2019-03-16T00:30:39.877" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like the OG was not that high. Try aiming for an OG of at least 1.040. This will reduce the likeliness of this problem if the OG is more than 1.040. You can also try adding maltodextrin to your beer as this will add the retention and mouthfeel to your beer! Try steeping with some speciality grains that add to the head and retention. You can find the list on the internet! Also, just look up if your kegging technique is right...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16658" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T00:30:39.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-16T18:24:04.643" Score="3" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a strange one. I pressed a large load of apples a week ago, getting just over 26 litres. I let it sit for a day in a single Fermenting bin with a dose of Camden to clear up wild yeast and a scoop of yeast nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then transferred half the juice to a second bin, chose not to add sugar as the sp was coming in at a healthy 1.090, added my yeast equally, sealed up with identical air locks and left in a spare room. Within 24 hours, one bin was bubbling away quite happily, developing a good frothy top. The other, nothing. Slowly, over the next few days, it started to fizz but no froth and no sign of any bubbling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 6 days I cracked it open and it smelt pretty pungent which gave me confidence. I added some more nutrients and yeast and it fizzed away happily for a few hours, though still no bubbling through the air-lock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really don't understand how one bin can be doing all the right things whilst the other not so. Should I just leave it for another week and then transfer to Demijohn? Mix the two back together and then into Demijohns? Put in yet more Yeast? Is seems like its Fermenting but why no air lock action? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17176" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2019-03-19T19:47:17.267" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T19:47:17.267" Title="Cider Issues - identical batches acting differently" Tags="|fermentation|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-17T06:19:24.210" Score="1" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone please help me out with how to properly calculate conversion efficiency using the Brewers friend calculator (found here and set to conversion efficiency: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/brewhouse-efficiency/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/brewhouse-efficiency/&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My last brew was 5kg Maris Otter, 500g Wheat and 250g Oats. Gravity was 1.055. Now I am not sure what Volume to put in the calculator. I had 15L mash water and added roughly 16L sparge, bringing the total to 31L added, although due to grain absorption I had 26.5L in the kettle (robobrew) post-sparge. I ended up with 23.5L post boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16415" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T01:22:10.730" Title="Calculating mash conversion efficiency using Brewers Friend calculator" Tags="|efficiency|conversion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24000" CreationDate="2019-03-17T06:21:33.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to give an update. I got feeler gauges and crushed at 0.83mm. This was a little too fine, but resulted in a reasonable conversion efficiency of ~73%. I also mashed with a little less water and sparged with more. Stirred my mash vigorously and frequently as well as sparging slower. Next time I will crush at slightly higher and hopefully achieve around 70% again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16415" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T06:21:33.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24041" CreationDate="2019-03-18T01:22:10.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've punched your numbers in, and it looks like 26.5L is probably close to the right number. It's not a very clear calculator though, so I would recommend heading to &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Efficiency&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Efficiency&lt;/a&gt; and reading up on the matter, then deciding what sort of efficiency you want to understand. Brewer's friend combines conversion and extraction/lauter efficiency into one misnamed term (I would call it Mash efficiency, as it incorporates both key elements of mashing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To measure conversion efficiency, all you need is the grist ratio and the weighted average yield of the grain, and the measurement you take after conversion is complete, and before you add any sparge liquid. This tells you how much starch was converted to sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To measure lauter efficiency, you work out how much sugar is in the mash using the conversion efficiency, then figure out how much you managed to get out of the mash and into the kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total mash efficiency combines these two concepts, but the BF calculator doesn't really go into this, but is does say, kind of in passing, that your volume should exclude grain absorption and mash tun dead space, and your gravity should be a blend of all runnings. So it sounds like 26.5L for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T01:22:10.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24046" CreationDate="2019-03-18T17:23:12.087" Score="3" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 500g S-05 package and i'm planning to use it only 20 g per week. Any advices on how to store it? it will last around 4-5 months&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14918" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T07:49:55.077" Title="Store 500g dry yeast package after opened" Tags="|yeast|storage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24044" CreationDate="2019-03-18T20:26:56.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be good with an airtight container in a fridge. I had dried bread yeast for a couple of years in an airtight container in the fridge, and it was usable until it was exhausted. You should certainly be good for a half year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T20:26:56.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24044" CreationDate="2019-03-18T21:43:50.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a half kilo pack of US-05 in the freezer for about 2 years, and it was always fine. Just seal it up as best as you can between uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T21:43:50.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24040" CreationDate="2019-03-19T17:41:09.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s quite possible your second bin is not completely sealed and is leaking enough CO2 to prevent the airlock from bubbling. I’ve seen this with a batch I thought had got stuck, but after opening and re-sealing the lid the airlock started bubbling healthily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the gravity against where it started - if its going down then all is well. If not, consider temperature - is it warm enough? - and maybe pitch yeast again if it is truly stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16967" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T17:41:09.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24044" CreationDate="2019-03-20T07:49:55.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your 500g pack will have a best before date, usually about two years after purchase date. Once you open the pack, transfer the contents to a similar sized plastic food container with a sealed lid, and store in your refrigerator. Mark the container lid with the expiry date. My experience is that your yeast will last at least one year beyond that expiry date. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T07:49:55.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2893" CreationDate="2019-03-20T14:17:42.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Palmer says that a fermentation be complete in 3 days at 68degF, for a 4% 1040 beer,(Ale)!!&#xA;Others say that the first 75% of the wort is fermented in 4 days,the remaining 25% goes in a further 4 days. Stronger brews take longer so my 4.5% beer worts are 10 day ferments.&#xA;My dry hopping takes up the recommended maximum 4 days(to avoid any grassiness,it is said),So far it has been 14 days in the FV.&#xA;Then Its time to bottle,using 1 carbonation drop per 500cc bottle. We now keep the bottles at room temp (usually the same temp that you have been fermenting at) for 3 days,to carbonate up,before moving to chill to clear, whilst maturing at the same time.This means a total of 14 days in bottle before sampling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastEditorUserId="15231" LastEditDate="2023-09-11T14:49:06.870" LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T14:49:06.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-21T10:33:05.593" Score="4" ViewCount="931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to brew homemade ginger beer using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.burkesbackyard.com.au/fact-sheets/food-and-recipes/food-health-nutrition/ginger-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;It&amp;#39;s one my mother used to brew so Im just trying to bring back that nostalgia&quot;&gt;this recipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is my second attempt at a plant/bug and it doesn't seem to be going well. Like the first time, the sediment in the plant just seems to settle in the bottom and I never really see the bubbles. It then starts to have little mould parties on the surface (little white fuzzy spots that develop black in the middle)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't smell bad but I can't imagine the mould is good.&#xA;Is there something I'm doing wrong? Should I be feeding the plant from day two and not wait to see those bubbles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17183" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T08:02:25.423" Title="First time brewing Ginger Beer. Is it dead?" Tags="|fermentation|brewing|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-22T02:30:10.690" Score="1" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've pretty much settled the protocols for mashing, sanitising, yeast maintenance, and bottle conditioning. Generally my beers come out decent. With one exception, anything that uses roasted barley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use roasted barley, a ready beer is usually quite good in the first 1-2 weeks after usual period of bottle conditioning (7-12 days). When age of that beer approaches 1.5 months, bottles turn to gushers. I don't taste any off-flavours that would hint of infection, however, overall beer tastes more acrid/sharp/bitter than when it was fresh. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I tried to fix it:&#xA;1. Use fresh yeast, or use a different strain. So far I tried WY London Ale (few varieties), WY West Yorkshire, WY San Diego Super, Mangrove Jacks M44.&#xA;2. Mash longer. Temperatures tried were int the range 66-69C.&#xA;3. Ferment longer. Raise the yeast from sediment by rocking the fermenter. Raise fermentation temperature after 1-2 weeks, to help the yeast to finish.&#xA;4. Mash without roasted barley, and add a &quot;cold brew&quot; of roasted barley at the end of boil.&#xA;5. Adding 10-20% less priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of those fixes actually helped. Oh, and btw, I did't dry hop any, so hop creep is not a factor, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I start to think that roasted barley may provide sugars that are fermentable on a few months timeline, rather than few weeks, but was so far unable to read anything about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any commends on what else I might be missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14593" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T15:53:18.220" Title="Beers with roasted barley come out overcarbed" Tags="|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24053" CreationDate="2019-03-23T18:39:36.403" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using an ice bath to cool my wort that's boiled in a big pot. After 30 mins the wort temp in the bath is usually 20 degrees Celsius. After I transfer it to the fermenter though it's reading 30. I'm not quite sure what I can do now to cool it back to at least 23 so I can pitch the yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? And why is the temp so different after transferring? I took readings from all over the pot to ensure it was cool enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16040" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T20:32:36.260" Title="Cooling wort in ice bath and transferred wort temp" Tags="|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24052" CreationDate="2019-03-23T20:32:36.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to defy the laws of physics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cooling with an ice bath, be sure to stir the wort when you think it is at the right temperature, and then measure again. Do not just take measurements at different positions in the wort. Make sure that the temperature is homogeneous by stirring it gently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T20:32:36.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24050" CreationDate="2019-03-26T02:34:10.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suspect that the suntanas (raisins) used in your starter have been treated with sulphur or sulphites.  This is stopping (or killing) the wild yeasts on the surface of the fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could try getting sulphur-free sultanas or use a different sulphur-free dried-grape fruit, e.g.: currants, raisins, etc. if it is not possible to find organic sultanans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your starters continue to fail, you could proceed with a small amount of another yeast - like bread yeast, instead of the starter. Or purchase a &quot;proper&quot; brewers yeast - although IMHO for a ginger+sugar beer, bread yeast would be good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you could use the yeast sediment from a bottle-conditioned beer, e.g.: anything from the Coopers company. Just pour it into the starter in place of the sultanas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T02:34:10.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24026" CreationDate="2019-03-26T03:09:07.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar system.  I &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; take the complete lot of wort from the mash initially, and then during both batch sparges.  The whole point of batch-sparging is not needing to maintain the liquor (water) level in the mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I add more water from the HLT (pumped over).  I ensure the new batch-sparge water is mixed well with the mash. Then next step is to recirculate until it's clear, then pump it off completely again.  Repeat once more, or more times for very high gravity beers (obviously not if the SG of the liquor is at or below ~ 1.010).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you propose in the OP sounds like a mix of batch and fly sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T03:09:07.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-26T11:05:39.240" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a trippel, added priming sugar, and bottled it, but my bottle capper broke after only a few bottles. I placed caps atop the remaining bottles but won’t be able to seal them until I can replace the capper.  These bottles will have set like this for four days.&#xA;What can I do to make sure this batch carbonates? If I add a bit more primer, how much is enough?&#xA;Thanks for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17193" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T12:32:26.283" Title="primed beer left uncapped" Tags="|priming|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24056" CreationDate="2019-03-26T21:52:24.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To carbonate to a desired level, you are adding a known amount of priming sugar to beer that has a known amount of fermentable sugars (i.e., fermentation has completed, so no fermentable sugars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After four days, you will not know how much of the initial priming sugar remains. You really are going to need to wait until all of that priming sugar has been fermented and the resulting carbon dioxide has dissipated. Then, re-prime and cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The re-priming will (probably) involve dumping all of these beers back into your bucket. The amount of priming sugar to add should be reduced based on the fraction of the batch that didn't get capped previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you are going to be re-bucketing anyway, you might want to sterilize your fermenter and just let the first priming sugar ferment away there, then bottle as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3003" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T21:52:24.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-27T14:20:33.833" Score="4" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently trying to organize a space for a collective of 10 brewers to store their 2-5 gallon kits. I'm currently looking into studios, as the area that I am in does not have many options for garages or storage container workshops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are only beginning and therefore what are the most basic essentials to get us going?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how should we best organize a small space for small scale home brewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17198" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-04-02T09:47:29.003" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T16:02:45.380" Title="Currently looking at spaces for a number of home brew kits. Looking for guidance in any way" Tags="|equipment|brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24079" CreationDate="2019-03-29T12:04:29.550" Score="1" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at buying a larger brew kit to go alongside the current 27L setup I currently have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been toying with the idea of upgrading to 200L and simply not brewing to capacity, maybe brew around 120L at a time or 80L at a time, or even as low as 50L at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, are there any risks with boiling in an oversized kit? Will there be a risk of the evaporating DMS condensing on the walls and dripping back in or will that be such a minute amount as to be unimportant? Or perhaps something else I haven't thought of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T16:44:54.753" Title="Brewing in an oversized kit - any risks?" Tags="|equipment|boil-equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24088" CreationDate="2019-03-29T17:27:48.360" Score="5" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I brew according to the instructions by the picobrew in my pico C the resulting beer has way too much yeast flavor. I already had 3 batches and all of them have this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;After getting more details I noticed their manual changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is old version of the manual (the one I actually followed for my brews):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8oEUsdj4NpSWFdvYjIyODY0bUE/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8oEUsdj4NpSWFdvYjIyODY0bUE/view?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is new one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://picobrew.com/About/Manual_PicoC.cshtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://picobrew.com/About/Manual_PicoC.cshtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation step actually now is different. (page 60 step 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I should try with new instructions and see if it's any better (they do say to pitch only half of packet now, instead of full. Also they no longer recommend to aerate the wort). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My original question was:&#xA;How to minimize the yeast flavor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried tasting beer 1 month after bottling, 2 months, 3 months. It's always way too much yeast flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17203" LastEditorUserId="17203" LastEditDate="2019-04-03T19:56:35.497" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T00:45:49.720" Title="Brewing with Pico C results in way too much yeast flavor" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24786" CreationDate="2019-03-29T19:30:46.603" Score="9" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making an hibiscus-tea mead. The tea/honey mixture had a really nice red color.  But after I added the yeast nutrient, the color turned black. The nutrient I'm using is LD Carlson Yeast Nutrient (Food grade urea and diammonium phosphate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I had some tea left, I tried adding some yeast nutrient to a cup of pure hibiscus tea. As expected, the color changed. Attached some pictures of my experiment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vrj9as.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vrj9as.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Before&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnMs8s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnMs8s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;After&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody had a similar experience? I would like to know if the final product will be black, or it will change back to red during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:  After some days the color turned back to red. So don't worry if this happens to you. Also, after several months aging, the color red is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17115" LastEditorUserId="17115" LastEditDate="2020-02-18T21:44:27.283" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T22:39:13.527" Title="Hibiscus mead changed color after adding yeast nutrient" Tags="|mead|yeast-nutrient|color|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-29T20:46:48.683" Score="1" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've juiced about 50kg of wonderful heritage apples that I stored over winter. They've dried out a lot. When scratting the pulp was almost dry to the touch, and the resulting juice was practically syrup... For each load on my 18l press I got about 2l juice. Delicious but I want to make hard cider and I don't want it to be wine strength!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas how much I should dilute it to get it back to 'proper' levels when the apples were fresh? Either based on experience or target gravity... For instance assuming it will ferment to 1.000 then 1.04 gives 5%, 1.07 gives 9% etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T18:01:25.490" Title="Diluting juice from old wrinkly apples for hard cider" Tags="|fermentation|cider|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="806" CreationDate="2019-03-30T02:19:53.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common enough problem with no simple answers.&#xA;Most brewers become very used to observing the fermentation progress &amp;amp; know when it's the right time to keg or bottle.&#xA;YOU DO NOT need to fart around with hydrometer readings at any stage.&#xA;If the fermentation process is stuck there are some obvious actions you can consider.&#xA;1) Accepting the brew is sweet but it can be blended at some future time.&#xA;2) Add a reliable kit yeast, they always seem nigh bullet proof &amp;amp; may well be capable of completing the fermentation process. &#xA;3) Stir your inactive brew whether you add another yeast or not.&#xA;4) Consider pitching a champagne yeast if you had planned a high ABV brew.&#xA;Be warned all the above may work or none, Been there &amp;amp; it'mighty annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16843" LastActivityDate="2019-03-30T02:19:53.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-30T12:03:01.500" Score="2" ViewCount="3579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old ginger bug (my first) that I have had going for a few months and used a couple of times to make ginger beer with great results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last couple of months, though, I haven't been able to take proper care of it. It was in the refrigerator for a month without feeding. When I took it out a while back, it was flat with all the ginger settled at the bottom, but with a healthy accumulation of white stuff (yeast &amp;amp; bacteria) at the bottom of the jar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to get the bubbling activity going again so I fed it a few times with no success. After that, it's been in and out of the refrigerator a few times, with some more attempts at reviving it (sometimes I have forgotten feeding it for a week while it's sitting on a shelf in the pantry), but nothing has happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks alright (there's no mold), it smells alcoholic and gingery, it has a hazy orange-brown colour and a white ring of microbes at the bottom. I'm not sure if the yeast and bacteria are still alive and capable of fermenting a new batch of ginger beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the bug safe? (Considering it was outside the refrigerator without feeding for over a week.) Should I just throw it out and start afresh?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What happens if I leave an old/mature ginger bug outside the refrigerator without feeding for a few days?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's safe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the bug alive? Apart from the bubbling, is there any other way of knowing that it's alive?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I can do to revive it, or is it incapable of reviving?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the bug is not bubbling, could it still be alive and capable of fermenting a new batch of ginger beer (considering the alcoholic smell and the presence of the white ring at the bottom)? Could I just take a chance and see if it works (provided it's safe)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aditya&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17205" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T18:01:25.490" Title="Old ginger bug not bubbling anymore - could it still be alive in spite of no bubbles" Tags="|fermentation|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24066" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24069" CreationDate="2019-03-31T18:31:04.060" Score="1" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short, &lt;em&gt;somehow&lt;/em&gt; after a chilling my beer after the boil, I've ended up with additional water in the wort (must have a leak in the chiller!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took me a while to notice, couldn't understand why my OG was 20points off! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result I need to boil the wort for another hour to get down to my intended volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What effect will this have on the beer? I guess I'll lose all of those hop aromas from late additions in the first boil? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference it's an APA with hop additions at 60, 15 &amp;amp; 0min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to do another hop stand to make up for this, but fully expecting the 2nd boil to have a detrimental effect on the beer... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12945" LastEditorUserId="12945" LastEditDate="2019-04-01T17:05:56.527" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T17:05:56.527" Title="Impact of reboiling wort" Tags="|hops|boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23981" CreationDate="2019-04-01T02:56:57.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't a matter of how long, more of how much. My &quot;Winemaker's recipe handbook&quot; c. 1976 does not have kiwi.  You may try a web search. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll list some examples from the book. All for 1-gallon recipes. You need this ingredient if your fruit has &quot;pectin&quot; in it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some additional digging with a few pectin definitions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pectin is a type of carbohydrate -- specifically a polysaccharide -- that’s found in the cell walls of plants, especially the leaves, roots, and fruits. It acts mainly to bind plant cells together. Pectin content varies widely among plants and even within the same plant over time. In general, pectin is broken down by enzymes as the fruit ripens and becomes softer. Pectin and other dietary fibers do not contribute significantly to nutrition -- primarily because your intestines can’t digest them very well -- but they do contribute to health. Pectin consumption impacts blood cholesterol levels and it helps regulates blood glucose levels. It also helps remove toxins such as lead and mercury from your body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A number of other fruits are very good sources of pectin -- assuming you eat them with their skin -- and these include all berries, peaches, apricots, cherries, and grapes. Berries particularly notable for their pectin content include strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, and dewberries. Bananas are also a good source, especially if you don’t let them get too ripe or soft before eating them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also checked kiwi jelly recipes, no pectin's added. (assumption, kiwi high in pectin) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;back to wine recipes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe Name, Amount of Fruit, Peptic Enzyme amount&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gooseberry, 2.5lb, .5tsp&#xA;Currant, 2.5-3.5lb, .5tsp&#xA;Elderberry, 3lb, NONE&#xA;Banana, 3lb, NONE&#xA;Apple, 8-16lb, .5tsp&#xA;Peach &amp;amp; Apricot, 2.5lb, 1tsp&#xA;Black Rasp Blue - berry, 4-3-2lb, all .5tsp&#xA;Grapes, any, NONE&#xA;Mellon &amp;amp; Orange, any, NONE&#xA;Pear &amp;amp; Persimmon 3-4lb, .5tsp&#xA;Pumpkin - Rhubarb - rice, 4-4-2, NONE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Berries, berries, berries, a few pounds, .5tsp&#xA;That's a sample of the 101 recipes. &#xA;Good luck, I'd guess 3lb, .5tsp.  Have to try.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13319" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T02:56:57.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24062" CreationDate="2019-04-01T15:38:57.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hibiscus contains hydroxycitric acid. I suspect it had a reaction to metal elements in the yeast nutrient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The product looks like iron chloride in solution to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T15:38:57.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24066" CreationDate="2019-04-01T15:45:08.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify. You're reboiling wort at this point not beer. Boiling beer is a different issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case the effects will be that your late hop additions will now add to IBU and lose most the aroma and flavor a late addition adds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T15:45:08.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24009" CreationDate="2019-04-02T09:31:58.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't bother rehydrating, just pitch the yeast directly onto the wort or must, the yeast handle this fine. If you rehyrdated them above 40C then there is a good chance you heat stressed the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disregard all information you have heard on having to rehydrate yeast. I attended a seminar from Safale early last year where they presented the results of a serise of experiments on rehydration vs direct pitching. The difference was nothing of statistical significance. So, make the sugary water and add yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been direct pitching with dried yeast for close to 20 years now and never had an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T09:31:58.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23981" CreationDate="2019-04-02T09:58:17.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would give it a coulpe of weeks, if it has not cleared after 2 weeks I would add a second dose of pectalase as there is a chance the alcohol will have deactivated the enzyme. Regarding quantity to add follow the manufacture's guidlines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If still not clear, either bottle and drink cloudly or try adding some finings wait a week then bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T09:58:17.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-02T14:54:34.917" Score="2" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been reading around for some answers with no luck. I am in the UK and maintaining heat is an issue, all articles I read are y'all Americans trying to keep liquid cool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have a flat arround 17/18 celsius on average, I believe this is fluctuation from 16-20 in reality with heating and overnight temperature drops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should i insulate my primary FV? I am worried temperatures will be too high when heat is generate by yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using Aluminium insulation foam used to reflect heat from radiators? &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4uTj8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4uTj8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone be able to clear up if this is necesarry and if there are more suitable solutions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers, &#xA;L. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17213" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T08:39:06.240" Title="Do I require insulation on my primary FV?" Tags="|primary-fermentation|diy|insulation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24073" CreationDate="2019-04-02T16:11:20.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to you, I am based in the UK, in the north. Specifically, near Leeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The proposed aluminium insulation foam might work. I don't know. Never tried it as there are no means of preventing the heat from building up if it gets too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For not too much money you can create a temperature controlled setup. You need 3 pieces of kit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Home-Brew-Wine-Making-Electric/dp/B001PQU73S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewbelt&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/inkbird-temperature-controller/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inkbird temperature controller&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30cm Digital Probe thermometer (sometimes sold with the Inkbird, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Inkbird-Itc-308s-UK-Plug-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Heater-30cm-Long-Probe/2020117038&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this eBay listing&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total cost for this will be around £40-50. Simply drill a hole in your bucket lid and add a gromet for a tight fit to get the temperature probe inside. It attaches to the temperature controller which is also connected to the brewbelt. You set it up to turn the heating element on (the brewbelt) when the temperature gets below a certain threshold, e.g. 20.5°C, and to turn off once it hits the desired temp, e.g. 21°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also has a plug for a cooling element but given I'm in the north I've never had need of that (though I would if I wanted to do any lagering). If you have an old fridge to use you could ferment in there and this would turn the fridge on if the temp gets too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used this setup with no issues for quite a while now. The brewing stays in the garage which is uninsulated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastEditorUserId="3032" LastEditDate="2019-04-03T08:39:06.240" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T08:39:06.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24073" CreationDate="2019-04-03T05:00:49.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Insulation is not enough.  In addition to the 3 items above, you'll definitely want to get a some type cooler or refrigerator to allow you to do lagers or even for some ales that you want to ferment on the lower end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17214" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T05:00:49.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23987" CreationDate="2019-04-03T05:16:07.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The type, roast and cut (i.e. surface area) of the wood has a huge impact on the amount of wood flavor you get, and the length of time changes not only amount of flavor, but the types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with a specific type of wood species, toasting level and cut that you easily get in for the foreseeable future.  if you can split a batch into smaller fermenters and do multiple tests in parallel you'll be able to dial-in what's right for your beer and your taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;even if you can't split into smaller fermenters, try something, sample often and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, feel free to add the soaking whisky to fermenter... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17214" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T05:16:07.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2019-04-03T05:23:08.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a counter-flow chiller, and I recycle my chiller water into my HLT for my next brew day.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To chill a 6.5gal batch to pitching temp, I usually end up with about 9gal of recycled water.  But it fluctuates a bit depending upon the ground water temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17214" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T05:23:08.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24059" CreationDate="2019-04-03T16:31:40.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use Bakers racks, those metal wire shelves you see in restaurants, you can buy at most general merchandise stores (e.g. Walmart, Meijer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you can store 3-4x 6 gallon bucket fermentors. I use one that stores all my equipment including my burner, imersion cooler, and about 6 buckets. and dont forget to get your rubbermade totes to store the small stuff.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic stuff you will need, is a burner or someway to heat water and boil wort.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;immersion cooler or other way to cool wort. bottling or kegging equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could go on with all the equipment that could be needed. but you will have to see what people have or willing to donate...etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this answers your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T16:31:40.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24060" CreationDate="2019-04-03T16:44:54.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;you should have very small or no risk boiling smaller kits in a bigger kettle, it may not be as efficient and it maybe harder to clean. but the result would be same if not similar to using a smaller kettle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a 16 gallon/64L Kettle, and I have not had any issue making smaller batches in it. I have brewed a 2 gallon batch on my system with out issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T16:44:54.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24063" CreationDate="2019-04-03T16:55:26.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to take your specific gravity or the syrup, and use a top off calculator to figure out how much to dilute it by &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you have 5 gallons of syrup at 1.110&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and you want your gravity at 1.050&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you would add 5.5 gallons of water to get 1.052 with a total volume of 10.5 gallons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/gravity-reading-before-adding-top-off-water.488801/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G1 x V1 = G2 x V2 where G is gravity in pts and V is volume.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T16:55:26.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24065" CreationDate="2019-04-03T17:40:03.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) It &lt;strong&gt;should be&lt;/strong&gt; safe, I would take the ginger bug and start a new batch to see if it starts up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) it should just continue and eat all the sugars or if its dormant, just sit and look pretty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Its probably still alive, unless you boiled it, left in the sun, or froze it. or added something to stop fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) decant or take most of the liquid out and make a new starter. this will tell you if it is viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) try it our or make a starter &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what probably happened is your bug went dormant when the alcohol level got too high. and putting in the fridge will also help it go dormant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T17:40:03.487" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-03T20:30:52.460" Score="1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using a yeast cake from another brew, is it possible to use too much?  If so, what is the limit for a 5 gallon keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17215" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T13:03:55.013" Title="Is there a limit to yeast &quot;cake&quot; fermentation?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24082" CreationDate="2019-04-03T20:47:13.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;General advice is to use about a cup of slurry, but less would be fine depending on the beer. You don't want to use way too much, as a lot of the flavour compounds you're after occur during the growth phase, which you would truncate or skip by massively overpitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T20:47:13.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21766" CreationDate="2019-04-04T15:14:21.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soda is simply water, sugar, yeast, and flavouring (artificial or natural).  The above directions are helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made a couple of batches of hard ginger ale, and will be experimenting with various flavourings with my current batches.  I will be trying strawberry kiwi, raspberry, and mint.  There are multiple recipes for the hard ginger ale online.  The fruits/mint will be added a week or so before the secondary fermentation will be complete, and then strained out before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just experiment - that's what I'm doing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17218" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T15:14:21.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24029" CreationDate="2019-04-04T18:46:42.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually carbonate in the keg/postmix, 2.4 vols of CO2 for an IPA let's say... You have to make the correct CO2 pressure calculations related to CO2 volumes and carbonation temperature. It's so much easier to carbonate when cold, so I usually set the pressure in the CO2 cylinder valve and put both in the freezer at something like 3C/37F for 2 to 3 days.&#xA;When it's ready I fill the bottles with a counter-pressure filler, common fillers WILL have some foam unless you fill very slowly, also you need to keep your keg on CO2 pressurized when filling, otherwise the beer will lose carbonation and generate more foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15909" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T18:46:42.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23979" CreationDate="2019-04-04T18:51:08.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be slower at 14C but I would go for that since 23C may create too much fuse alcohols and fruity esters. Esters are common in English yeast strains but not desired for Stouts.&#xA;Also if your temperature is not constant on 23C it may get waaaay up during fermentation, because fermentation generates a lot of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15909" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T18:51:08.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23602" CreationDate="2019-04-04T19:00:14.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend made a beer with US-05 that tasted like that, in his case the problem was he stored the yeast in the freezer for a couple days and most of it died, so the dead cells released a lot of off-flavors and the beer got very hazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I go about preventing it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Avoid any conditions that might freeze the yeast, like purchasing yeast from online retailers during extremely cold weather, whether dry or liquid.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15909" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2019-04-07T14:38:17.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24061" CreationDate="2019-04-04T21:38:25.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know a fair amount about the Pico C. My father has one and I've brewed with it a couple of times. What I find is that when you bottle from the little keg you ferment in, too much yeast and other junk gets into the bottles or dispensing keg resulting in a beer with a lot of sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After fermentation, rack it to a 1 gallon glass bottle before you put in drinking bottles. This will help settle the yeast a bit more. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use some gelatin. Gelatin will settle out most of the yeast, resulting in a cleaner tasting product.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think Pico rushes the bottling process in their instructions, not allowing the yeast to settle out so taking time for the beer to clear for a day or two after most of the fermentation is done will result in clearer beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2019-04-08T07:34:42.457" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T07:34:42.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24090" CreationDate="2019-04-05T17:38:44.987" Score="2" ViewCount="976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been homebrewing for a few months now (it's now my 15th liter!) and i was thinking about making my beer clearer/better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing i could come up with, in my homebrew gear, was trying to carbonate inside the carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, my process is : first fermentation in the carboy, carbonation in bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wondered if i could close the carboy with a plug, and simply bottle it when carbonation is done; but i've read that the carboy could explode (!!!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So; is it a good or bad idea? Otherwise i thought of carbonating in the carboy, but with a plug that would pop if the the pressure was was too much, and just bottle them when it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advices ? thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17223" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T13:57:47.557" Title="Carbonation process - Using the carboy" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|carboy|pressure|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24089" CreationDate="2019-04-05T19:17:15.067" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not want to do this. Carboys are not meant to hold pressure and will break. If you want clearer beer, aging it longer in a carboy and/or using something like gelatin or whirlfloc will greatly aid in clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T19:17:15.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24089" CreationDate="2019-04-05T19:21:51.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wondered if i could close the carboy with a plug, and simply bottle it when carbonation is done; but i've read that the carboy could explode (!!!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So; is it a good or bad idea? Otherwise i thought of carbonating in the carboy, but with a plug that would pop if the the pressure was was too much, and just bottle them when it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want precise control and are willing to risk an occasional explosion then in the bottle will be less precise and less messy. For better control and low risk the proper method for what you want is always the best way. There are many &lt;a href=&quot;http://trailhoncho.com/lounge/carbonation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;techniques used to carbonate beer&lt;/a&gt;, bottle conditioning, spunding, krausening, and force carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/uncategorized/why-do-we-spund/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spunding&lt;/a&gt; you will only have precise control of carbonation levels (and safety) if you use a spunding valve, the links above and many articles online explain where to buy or how to make one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WM8z2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WM8z2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Relief Valve and Spunding Valve&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See LowOxygenBrewing's article: &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/uncategorized/why-do-we-spund/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why do we Spund?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; and their recommendation of Dr. Michael Hall’s article: &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Brew-by-the-Numbers.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brew by the Numbers – Add up What’s in Your Beer&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; (.PDF).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a pressure relief valve, don't rely on a plug to blow as that's not precise, safe, nor does it keep oxygen out. Using a CO2 tank with airstones can clarify and carbonate your beer in one step, and safely if you &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2011/02/build-spunding-valve.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;use a spunding valve&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/10040/17222&quot;&gt;Can a keg explode?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;, an aluminum keg is rated over 100 PSI above the maximum pressure that you would use for &lt;em&gt;high&lt;/em&gt; pressure carbonation. Recommendations are offered elsewhere and on our site in the Q&amp;amp;A: &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/22420/17222&quot;&gt;What pressure to set for spunding valve?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; - &amp;quot;8 PSI during primary, then 12-15 PSI based on ...&amp;quot;. Use of plastic carboys is recommended over glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g3Rxd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g3Rxd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thecarycompany.com/containers/glass/carboys&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plastic and glass carboys available&lt;/a&gt;, unfortunately plastic coated glass carboys cost over U$400 (yikes!), but an inexpensive solution is to &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00FRLI2PC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wrap shattershield™ around your existing carboys&lt;/a&gt; - that &lt;strong&gt;won't&lt;/strong&gt; increase the strength or entirely avoid breakage but it will contain the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17222" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T22:47:55.487" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24492" CreationDate="2019-04-06T22:06:41.337" Score="2" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I replaced my cloudy old 1/2&quot; i.d. siphon hose with one that gives a better view of what I'm siphoning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trouble is, this new hose is far more kink-prone than the old one, to the point where even moderate bends can forms kinks that stop the flow. Supply catalogues never tell you how kinky a hose is, so I'm hoping someone can point me to a sturdy, relatively kink-free solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going down a size would solve the problem, all right, but I routinely siphon 24  gallons at a time. I don't want to be standing there forever waiting for kegs or carboys to fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice or links would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2019-09-21T20:52:56.030" Title="Non-kinky siphon hose?" Tags="|siphon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24092" CreationDate="2019-04-07T21:53:27.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you use a racking cane with a more complete bend on it, so that the hose doesn't have to bend as much? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-04-07T21:53:27.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24092" CreationDate="2019-04-08T02:35:53.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can place a spring over the bend and maintain visibility of that section of hose, or use a small section of a harder hose (such as garden hose) if visibility isn't important. If the garden hose diameter is too small you can slit it, or visit a gas station's dumpster (or ask) for a small section of radiator hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dgYiN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dgYiN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Radiator Hose&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/umqmc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/umqmc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Add a spring to prevent the hose from kinking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17222" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T02:35:53.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24100" CreationDate="2019-04-08T11:19:47.263" Score="3" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing for 6 years and have developed some great recipes that have been well received at competitions.  My equipment used to be an all-grain setup using a standard 10 gal kettle and 10 gal cooler mash tun.  Fermentation has always been in buckets in a temp controlled chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I recently &quot;upgraded&quot; to a 3-keggle setup using all stainless fittings and connections so as to brew larger volumes.  Ever since that time, my beer has been lifeless.  Even recipes that I have been brewing for a long time seem to lack that usual punch and drinkability.  No pop and all fizz.  :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe my system is &quot;dialed in&quot; using Beersmith and I am hitting volumes and gravities as I should.  I am just not getting the same flavors that I am used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6300" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T12:12:07.207" Title="Lifeless beer after new equipment" Tags="|equipment|taste|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16757" CreationDate="2019-04-08T12:51:58.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply circulate the Freon on one side of a plate chiller or counter flow chiller and increase the condensing coil size and add a fan to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17232" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T12:51:58.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22380" CreationDate="2019-04-09T00:19:50.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last spring, I brewed an extract recipe (Belgian-style golden strong ale) using birch sap instead of water.  The recipe called for cane sugar, which I decreased by my estimate of the sugar content of the sap (don't know if I actually needed to do this, but it felt scientific).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer turned out fantastic, my favorite so far that I've made.  To be fair, there's probably no discernible difference, as @match postulates, and that it's all in my head.  But it made for a cool provenance when sharing it: &quot;See that tree over there?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I seem to remember hitting the recipe FG, suggesting that the majority of the dissolved matter in the sap was fermentable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T00:19:50.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23847" CreationDate="2019-04-09T07:18:07.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;MFL - male flare, (FFL female flare)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Barb - barbed fittings, used with polyethylene tubing and a hose clamp. Standards: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.techstreet.com/nsf/standards/nsf-51-2017?gateway_code=nsf&amp;amp;product_id=2019439&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NSF-51&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;SAE is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sae.org/about/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Society of Automotive Engineers&lt;/a&gt; - flare angle 45°&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;AN is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Army/Navy fitting&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JIC_fitting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JIC&lt;/a&gt; is the industrial counterpart of SAE J514 - flare angle 37°&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SAE J512/4 - 12.7mm is 1/2-20 and 9.5mm is 3/8-24 or 11.1mm is 7/16-20. (10.86mm is not one of the available sizes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Automotive Tube Fittings &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sae.org/standards/content/j512_201705/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;J512_201705&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: For sizes 3/16 to 3/8 and 1/2 to 3/4 the flare type fittings depicted in Figures 1A to 3C are identical with the corresponding refrigeration tube fittings specified in SAE &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sae.org/standards/content/j513_199901/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;J513&lt;/a&gt;. Special size combination fittings 3/16 to 3/8 and 1/2 to 3/4 shall be as specified in SAE J513.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hydraulic Tube Fittings &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sae.org/standards/content/j514_201201/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;J514_201201&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ryco.com.au/technical/thread-connector-identification/jic-37-flare-uno-o-ring-boss-threads/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JIC 37° Flare &amp;amp; Uno (O Ring Boss) Threads&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ryco.com.au/technical/thread-connector-identification/sae-threads/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SAE 45° Flare – SAE J512&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JiCI3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JiCI3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;37°&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RL5F7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RL5F7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;45°&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that those are 37° MFLs (J514).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17222" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T07:18:07.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24095" CreationDate="2019-04-09T12:12:07.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a little hard to diagnose this at a distance, but one thought I'm having is that your new setup may contain metals of a different alloy which in turn could affect your fermentation. It is a well-known phenomenon, for example, that having brass parts somewhere in the mix is beneficial to fermentation, since traces of the zinc leached from the brass end up in the wort and make your yeast very happy. Then there's the effect that some alloys may have on the pH of the wort which in turn affects hop utilization and Maillard reactions during the boil as well as the mineral composition of the wort during the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know, it's a long shot, but weirder things have happened. If you're hitting your volumes and gravities this doesn't seem likely, nor does your extraction efficiency seem affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other possible factor is the thermal properties of your new setup. Stainless steel is not the greatest heat conductor. A thick walled stainless steel vessel on a gas burner may have a single &quot;hot spot&quot; at the bottom which means that the actual boil only takes place in the center of the kettle, i.e. a major portion of your wort is not involved in the boil. Circulation in the kettle should ensure this won't be much of a problem, but you never know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may be way off here, of course. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T12:12:07.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24061" CreationDate="2019-04-10T00:45:49.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been talking to Picobrew about this for years.  Don't use the whole yeast pack.  That's enough for 5 gallons.  1/2-1 tsp. of the yeast is plenty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T00:45:49.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-10T21:06:43.097" Score="5" ViewCount="742" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using the following recipe to grow an active ginger bug:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 cups bottled water&#xA;2 tbsp grated organic ginger&#xA;2 tbs refined sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each day I add 2 tbsp ginger and 2 tbsp sugar to the mix. I wash all my utensils with bottled water before using. I use a plastic spoon for stirring. Temperature ranges between 22 C and 28 C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 24h the bug is showing signs of fizziness, but only small bubbles. This doesn’t change significantly after 48h. After 72h it goes flat and if I keep feeding it will eventually develop a slight film of mold on top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, however I start brewing the ale after 48h have passed (for syrup I use 2L water, 54g ginger, 273g sugar, 3 lemons, brought to room temp and mixed with 100g ginger bug liquid) it will not develop enough carbonation after 3rd day of bottling. It does have some fizziness but it’s not near to making a “pop” sound when the bottle is opened or have proper carbonation when poured in a glass. The liquid also seems sweet enough, so I would say it is probably not a case of all of it being eaten away by the bug in the ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried numerous times and the outcome is the same: either flat bug by day 3 OR not enough carbonation if I use the bug on day 2 for making ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong? Can anyone please help? I have read all sorts of advice and tried to mitigate sources of error having to do with ingredients, so I can’t tell what it is that I’m doing wrong, especially because everyone says this is the easiest recipe to get right :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17242" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T11:54:38.953" Title="Ginger bug does not produce enough carbonation" Tags="|ginger-beer|ginger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1879" CreationDate="2019-04-11T00:29:02.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though this is a 24v controller, you should still be able to use it. Provide the power input with a 24vac supply. Then, cut an extension cord in half. Rejoin the neutral and earth wires, and connect the live wires to the C and NO connections (or NC if you want to invert the behaviour of the load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no rule saying the load needs to be on the same power supply as the controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T00:29:02.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8166" CreationDate="2019-04-11T00:31:46.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you might have a leaky seal on the fridge that's letting moist warm air in, where it condenses. Or if your fridge has a condensation runoff tube, it might be blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T00:31:46.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24105" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-12T12:49:40.263" Score="7" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a quick one. Are you aware of the meta side of this site?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.meta.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;https://homebrew.meta.stackexchange.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you know this existsed before now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=== The election happened, but the above is still valid ===&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just thought I would try to make people more aware of this side of the site as we have some moderator elections coming up and I am worried people will be unaware of this and as such may miss out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/460/announcing-a-pro-tempore-election&quot;&gt;Announcing a Pro Tempore election&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HB.SE is telling me &amp;quot;The question you're asking appears subjective and is likely to be closed&amp;quot;, I know see below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you think this is of no value: comment or flag and I will happily remove it;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;But, if you think making more people aware of the full HB.SE community is a valid use of a question then please comment with other features people may be unaware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-11-02T17:00:51.523" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T17:00:51.523" Title="Are you aware of Homebrew Meta?" Tags="|meta|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24082" CreationDate="2019-04-12T13:03:55.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not really any hard and fast rule, I would say it depends on a number of factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Age of yeast cake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gravity of last brew&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how rapidly you want to get this one going&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a professional setting you would check cell count, viability and a number of other factors. But unless you have stain and a microscope this is not really an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The older the yeast cake the more I would use as the viability and vitality of your yeast are likely to be lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same for the ABV of the last brew the higher the abv the less healthy your yeast will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If from an old cake with high ABV maybe use 3 cups from a very fresh brew at ~4% then as Frazbro suggests a single cup of cake should more than suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T13:03:55.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23977" CreationDate="2019-04-13T14:58:33.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Please help me with the thermowell size ... I got lost in NPT sizes, I have a 7 mm thermometer hole in my kettle and I don’t want to drill bigger, what size to choose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When searching I found that imperial (inches) is more common than metric, and such small sizes don't turn up in search results anywhere near as often as larger sizes, I understand that you don't want to drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Choosing the &lt;strong&gt;thermowell length&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A properly installed element will project into a liquid a distance equal to its sensitive length plus at least one inch. Above all, be sure that dead length, i.e., that required to pass through walls, pipe fittings, etc., is taken into account when choosing the necessary well insertion length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermocouples and thermistors have short sensitive lengths. &#xA;They can be used with shorter insertion length thermowells.&#xA;Bimetal thermometers, resistance thermometers and liquid-in-glass &#xA;thermometers have sensitive portions between 25 to 51 mm &#xA;(1 to 2&quot;) long. Therefore, the minimum standard insertion length &#xA;of 64 mm (21&#xA;⁄2&quot;) must be entirely immersed in liquid for proper accuracy.&#xA;Filled system thermometer bulbs may have sensitive portions from &#xA;one to several inches in length. Determine the sensitive length of &#xA;the bulb before choosing an insertion length.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you might think you can get away with a 1/4&quot; thread what you should be searching for is a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?biw=552&amp;amp;bih=963&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=1&amp;amp;ei=2muxXN2hN4vB0PEPr5m5eA&amp;amp;q=%22M7%22%20NPT%20Stainless%20Steel%20Thermowell&amp;amp;oq=%22M7%22%20NPT%20Stainless%20Steel%20Thermowell&amp;amp;gs_l=img.3...621748.633757..636940...0.0..0.219.831.3j2j1......1....1..gws-wiz-img.ARSrzNNj8xQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M7 NPT Stainless Steel Thermowell&lt;/a&gt;&quot; - but your list of choices at that size seems limited, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bestvaluevacs.com/1-4-npt-stainless-steel-thermowell-2-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is one&lt;/a&gt; for 1/4&quot; (a little small and not interchangeable). Searching AliExpress for &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?initiative_id=QRW_20190413062744&amp;amp;SearchText=npt+thermowell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1/4&quot; NPT Thermowell&lt;/a&gt;&quot; turns up nothing, except a lot of 1/2&quot; ones. Searching for &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&amp;amp;initiative_id=SB_20190412212448&amp;amp;SearchText=M7%20npt%20thermowell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M7 NPT Thermowell&lt;/a&gt;&quot; turns up nothing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have a more difficult time finding a 7 mm &lt;strong&gt;thermowell&lt;/strong&gt; compared to any other size, but they are available. Generally a thermowell is used to protect the thermocouple from corrosion or abrasive particles or where the vessel is under pressure, otherwise a simple temperature probe could be used instead. At 7 mm it won't take much wear, be particularly strong, nor permit as wide a selection of internal probes, thus it's the least common size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thermowell certainly has an advantage in boil over situations, or where the cat is likely to tip it over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 7 mm &lt;strong&gt;temperature probe&lt;/strong&gt; is much more readily and less expensive than a thermowell (which still requires a probe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a thermowell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Ipsz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Ipsz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1/4&amp;quot; Thermowell&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a temperature sensor (probe):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wGf12.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wGf12.png&quot; alt=&quot;Temperature Sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is from Prairie Brew Supply, called the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://prairiebrewsupply.ca/product/temperature-sensor-waterproof-ds18b20/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Temperature Sensor – Waterproof (DS18B20)&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, the Probe is 7 mm in diameter and roughly 26 mm long. Overall length (including wire) is 6 feet. AliExpress seems to have a limited selection, I'd advise you to expand the list of places you are willing to purchase from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to drill for tapping a 1/2&quot; NPT hole you'll want to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/npttap.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;drill a 45/64ths inch hole&lt;/a&gt;. This chart suggests you can get away with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-tap-pipe.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;23/32nds inch hole&lt;/a&gt; which will be an easier drill to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Metric to Imperial conversions:&#xA;&#xA;0.250&quot; = 6.35 mm&#xA;0.276&quot; = 7 mm&#xA;&#xA;0.375&quot; = 3/8&quot; = 9.525 mm&#xA;0.394&quot; = 10 mm&#xA;0.4375&quot; = 7/16&quot; = 11.112 mm&#xA;&#xA;0.472&quot; = 12 mm&#xA;0.5&quot; = 12.7 mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17222" LastActivityDate="2019-04-13T14:58:33.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-14T19:29:19.693" Score="2" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to keg my latest stout.  If I plan to have it in the keg  for a few weeks before a party,  do I need to put pressure on it  or not?  If pressure,  how much pressure?  I know the day before drinking, I'll have it at 30 PSI  for a bit  before dropping it to 10 PSI for pouring.  I just am not sure about storing it under pressure or not.  Also  this beer will be in a garage at temps around 60 F   until I cool it down in my fridge.&#xA;I'm kinda new at kegging..  So have lots of questions..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17252" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T13:46:39.523" Title="Kegging time for beer under pressure or not?" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-15T11:31:51.887" Score="3" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I double a mead recipe, do I need to double the yeast I put in to have the same fermentation time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm doubling a small batch from a half gallon to a gallon, would I need to add a second packet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17254" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-04-16T18:28:56.370" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T02:46:13.617" Title="Doubling a mead recipe" Tags="|yeast|mead|recipe-formulation|recipe-scaling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24108" CreationDate="2019-04-15T22:58:53.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always store under pressure. If you're storing for a long time before serving, and the keg will remain connected to gas, just set the reg at serving pressure. If you're going to disconnect it, you want to get it carbed up properly before disconnecting. In that case, you can either force carb and diconnect, or do a long slow carb and disconnect. In either case, keep the beer at serving temperature during carbonation. Once it's carbonated, you don't have to chill it until serving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T22:58:53.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24109" CreationDate="2019-04-15T23:52:11.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, when you are re-sizing recipes you want to keep all ingredients in basically the same proportions. This includes the number of yeast cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not double the yeast, you will be asking each yeast cell to be doing twice the work, which would tend to affect the performance of the yeast, and therefore the chemical composition of the result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3003" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T23:52:11.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24108" CreationDate="2019-04-16T13:46:39.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You always want to purge out any O2 after transfer to the keg at least and putting some pressure in the keg ensures a tight seal on the lid. You will want to give yourself plenty of time to chill to the correct temperature for the pressure and carbonation you want.&#xA;Going from 60F to serving temp at 30PSI the day before may yield suboptimal results.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'd recommend starting the process 3 days before hand if you really have to try and do rapid carbonation.  For someone new to kegging its really best to hold the beer at the right temperature and pressure for a week to get the perfect carbonation.  I have been kegging for many years and I still get pretty variable results when I am forced to do it fast like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T13:46:39.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24089" CreationDate="2019-04-16T13:57:47.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from the pressure in glass issue, you will lose too much carbonation transferring it to the bottles after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T13:57:47.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24109" CreationDate="2019-04-17T12:06:23.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry yeast packets are generally enough for 3-6 gallons. So with 1 gallon, about 1/4 of one pack is plenty for a commercial dried yeast such as Danstar Lallemand Nottingham Ale yeast.  And you most definitely would not need 2 packs!  Even 1 whole pack is a major over-pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T12:06:23.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24117" CreationDate="2019-04-17T13:33:04.107" Score="1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a NEIPA, fermented in the primary for 10 days and straight into bottles that I left condition for 2 weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OG was 1.067 and FG is 1.016&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the full recipe - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/671365/neipa-v3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/671365/neipa-v3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer after 2 weeks bottle conditioning tastes pretty sweet and doesn't seem to be fully carbed. Would the sweetness just be down to the carb drops having not been fully consumed by the yeast yet? I'm thinking the beer fermented out fully and I don't remember noting that the samples were that sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16040" LastEditorUserId="16040" LastEditDate="2019-04-17T13:41:33.357" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T17:59:53.563" Title="IPA Tastes Sweet - Undercarbed?" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24116" CreationDate="2019-04-17T17:59:53.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two weeks can be a bit short sometimes for carbonation.  Be sure the bottles are being stored in a room temperature spot. Keep them off the floor, or insulate the box from the ground somehow if that's the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a couple bottles and put them some place warmer than that.  On top of your fridge or nearer to a heat source/vent. Give it another 7-10 days, chill and then crack open one of these test bottles.  If its carbed up then all things are going fine it will just take some time for the other bottles to catch up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T17:59:53.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2019-04-19T22:29:09.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the economics behind home brewing? I mean compared to buying &quot;X&quot; commercial brand beer and setting aside the &quot;hobby&quot; added value that this may have? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.businessinsider.com/most-popular-beers-in-america-2018-9#1-bud-light-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Business Insider&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.usatoday.com/story/money/food/2018/05/03/most-popular-us-beer-brands/573703002/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;USAToday&lt;/a&gt; list &quot;Bud Light&quot;, &quot;Coors&quot; and &quot;Budweiser&quot; as the top three 'commercial brand beers', while sites such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://today.yougov.com/ratings/food/popularity/beers/all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouGov&lt;/a&gt; offer a different opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the reason they are the top three is marketing and price, still making an exact copy isn't easy and cheap but there is some small savings to be had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a better use of time and resources to make a better beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested in Craft beer then there's a list (derived from a list of 9116 companies, with only 77 described as &quot;large&quot;) at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersassociation.org/press-releases/fastest-growing-craft-breweries-2018/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewers Association&lt;/a&gt; of the fastest growing breweries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ingredients for some craft beers are available in a kit or at the back of the brew pub, that permits you to try making the same beer at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewer's Friend has a half dozen recipes for a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/460020/bud-light-clone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bud Light&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/20756/coors-light-clone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coors Light&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, and &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/352329/budweiser-ale-style&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Budweiser&lt;/a&gt;&quot; style beer, but you probably won't exactly match the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/five-reasons-to-try-brew-on-premise-brewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brew on Premise&lt;/a&gt; you can get 48 bottles (20 L) worth of beer for U$120 (bottles and labels extra) or 5-7 cases (of 24) from a 50 L brew for U$210 (U$210 / 144 = $1.46 a bottle). (Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thecraftob.com/book-a-brew-session.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TCoB&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some places have the ingredients for over 100 different recipes, brewing classes and clubs, and experts on site to help you. Some places have a bar where you can sample different beers and choose what you want to brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some allow you to do part of the process on site and finish at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that leads to more certainty of a great result (most offer a 100% guarantee) and you can buy your equipment from people whom you get to know and trust, and are willing to offer &lt;em&gt;tech support&lt;/em&gt; should you have a question come up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go out and spend a lot to get good equipment it can take a while to break even. See our question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/1/17222&quot;&gt;What equipment do I need to buy to start making beer?&lt;/a&gt; ,- there's a lot to buy and sell lot to know. It makes sense to have help the first few times and doing it at a BoP saves all the mess and cleanup. A few hours time and come back later to bottle, what could be easier is certainly more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/2008/08/31/cost-breakdown-of-beer-home-brewing-vs-commercial/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend&lt;/a&gt; offers this graphic showing the cost breakdown for commercial beer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BvYda.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BvYda.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cost Breakdown&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see you pay a lot for tax and marketing, neither of which provides you with better or more beer. Brewing on premise instead of your home saves a lot of work and worry, if you factor in the value of your time and space in your home (not to mention &lt;strong&gt;proper&lt;/strong&gt; equipment, tested recipes (that you've taste tested) and expert advice) that can make the difference in cost more manageable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that you can make over 100 liters at a time for greater savings that gives you more room for extra fridges instead of space for large vats that aren't always full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually doing &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; in your own home is an act of love and devotion; easier to do once you are familiar with the process and have a few brews under your belt, and a brewing lesson or two. It's also easy to switch styles without buying new equipment, and make some wine on occasion, if you're using someone else's equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17222" LastActivityDate="2019-04-19T22:29:09.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-22T21:01:22.420" Score="3" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed many batches of beer all with the extract method. All Brewers Best kits. I've generally let them sit in primary for one week then secondary for another before kegging. I've always been a bit reluctant to check the gravity to see if fermentation has stopped by opening the bucket because I was told that oxidation can occur if you add too much oxygen to the buckets and opening it for three days or more in a row to check SG would definitely do that. I was also told that you should get the beer off the trub after a week as it could add off flavors. Lately I've seen that some leave it in primary for several weeks and it's not a bad thing... I'm confuded..lol. Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17268" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T21:41:16.377" Title="Secondary Fermentation for my beer, yes or no?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24119" CreationDate="2019-04-22T23:32:59.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question.  Racking the beer too quickly can actually lead to worse off-flavors, because yeast can metabolize diacetyl and absorb sulfur, but when you rack then you remove like 95% of all the yeast.  Concerns regarding yeast autolysis are overblown and antiquated.  In reality, autolysis does not kick in for at least 6 or 7 weeks, and often much longer.  As such, I recommend leaving the beer in primary until you're certain it's done fermenting, based on the krausen falling in and the beer beginning to clear... and then wait even longer, about 3 more days, just to be certain.  From there, it should be safe to package straight away.  No need to move to a secondary step -- just skip secondary.  Millions of homebrewers have figured this out and are doing the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T23:32:59.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24119" CreationDate="2019-04-23T12:11:16.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of us are not doing secondary.  After many many batches in my life, I came to the conclusion that most beers I made were done after two weeks in primary.  And by done I mean, ready to move to bottles or kegs. (The beers are actually done sooner than that with a good ferment, but 2 weeks fits my schedule most of the time and I KNOW its done at that point without worry... for most beers.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say you shouldn't fear oxidation from opening the bucket to get a quick sample with a thief or sanitized glass measuring cup.  The amount of oxygen exposure racking to secondary is much greater than taking 2-3 samples for gravity checks.  Eventually, you'll be confident/educated enough to not have to check so often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T12:11:16.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24119" CreationDate="2019-04-23T14:51:14.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always rack my beer to a secondary and have good results.  I brew ales and the first rack occurs after about a week and then bottling 3 or 4 days after.  I think it makes for a cleaner beer but I have been doing this for so long (150+ batches) that I don't really remember what it was like before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17018" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T14:51:14.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24119" CreationDate="2019-04-23T18:42:17.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't have to worry too much about that, the answer is that &lt;strong&gt;you can, but don't have to.&lt;/strong&gt;  I have done both in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opening your fermenter to take a gravity reading is not risky &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you sanitize your equipment properly.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are reasons when racking to a seconday is beneficial. There is a lot of discussions about that topic here, please take a look at: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/88/if-when-to-move-to-secondary-fermentation&quot;&gt;If/When to move to secondary fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/68/whats-the-point-of-secondary-fermentation?noredirect=1&amp;amp;lq=1&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s the point of secondary fermentation?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/5079/what-are-the-advantages-and-disadvantages-of-transferring-to-a-secondary-vs-a-l?noredirect=1&amp;amp;lq=1&quot;&gt;What are the advantages and disadvantages of transferring to a secondary vs. a long primary?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T13:13:40.340" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T13:13:40.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-27T00:40:46.777" Score="2" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about the liklihood of oxidation during secondary fermenting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a NEIPA, second brew ever, from NorthernBrewer.  OG 1.068, now 1.032 after 15 days in primary.  Directions called for transfer to secondary for two more weeks (this was optional but I went for it).  During transfer with siphon, all was going well until about half way through the 5 gallons, started getting lots of bubbles in the line.  I think as the beer got more dense low in the bucket where dry the sludge got stirred up, the siphon started pulling in air around the seal....anyway, lots of bubbles on the way into the fermenter.  I'm hoping the yeast isn't completely done in the secondary glass carboy, but not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on oxidation, whether I should add the recommended last dry hops in a couple of days, or just general advice would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17283" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-04-29T13:57:28.200" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T21:44:06.383" Title="Oxidation in Secondary Fermenter" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|dry-hop|oxidation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24172" CreationDate="2019-04-27T03:54:17.397" Score="5" ViewCount="879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm living in Singapore where the ambient temperature fluctuates between 28 and 33 C most days. In the back of my apartment where I keep my fermentor, the temperature should be pretty stable around 30. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried brewing a couple of beers using ice packs to maintain a temperature around 20 degrees. For my next batch, I would like to try something that works naturally in these temperatures, rather than fighting my environment. I understand saisons and farmhouse ales are often brewed at higher temperatures, but I'm having trouble finding a recipe that calls for fermentation at 30 degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have examples of recipes that are designed to ferment at 30 degrees? Even better if they are extract recipes. Any other advice for tropical brewing appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17042" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T13:17:59.460" Title="Advice for high temperature fermentation (for a beginner)" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|temperature|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24127" CreationDate="2019-04-27T12:01:02.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Research the Scandanavian yeast called Kveik.  It ferments any style cleanly at high temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-04-29T23:50:41.853" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T23:50:41.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24127" CreationDate="2019-04-29T03:13:57.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You''re definitely on the right track in terms of working with the temperatures you've got. I'd recommend looking into tropical stouts as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My go to saison recipe is pretty simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30-70% Pilsner malt {I err closer to 70%&#xA;pilsner generally}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remainder pale wheat malt &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~30-40IBU from Sorachi Ace, with a heavy late boil addition, and a heavy dry hop as well (all sorachi)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I aim for an OG of about 16*P personally, but choose your poison.&#xA;About halfway through fermentation I also add 1kg of dextrose in a strong solution.&#xA;Ferment with any saison strain, my favourite is WY3711/Belle Saison.&#xA;I usually pitch this at about 22*C and then allow it to get to whatever temperature it likes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T03:13:57.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24126" CreationDate="2019-04-29T14:08:11.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding bubbles while siphoning, that should not be enough to oxydize your wort. Also since fermentation is not completed, the yeast will use that remaining oxygen and CO2 will still be produced to form a protective layer above the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not be worried about dry-hopping in the secondary, I found that it takes a lot more than that to oxydize a batch to the point of ruining it.  Santize your equipement well, it's way more important at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find a lot of information regarding oxidation using the search, for instance :  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/17017/worried-about-oxidation?rq=1&quot;&gt;Worried about oxidation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T14:08:11.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24127" CreationDate="2019-04-29T18:15:32.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I regularly brew a saison using WLP565 that ferments at 90-95 degrees Fahrenheit (30-35 in Celsius). The recipe is modeled after a beer brewed by the Dupont brewery in Belgium, as described in the volumen &quot;Farmhouse Ales&quot;. It is 100% pilsner malt mashed at 148 for an hour. I use East Kent Golding hops to the tune of 24 IBUs for bittering at 60 minutes and an ounce of Styrian Golding for a flavor addition with 5 minutes left. Fermentation is done in a swamp cooler with an aquarium heater to get the temp up. &#xA;Its not a clean beer by any stretch of the imagination, but it is a crowd favorite for friends and family.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T18:15:32.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-29T18:31:55.447" Score="2" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm developing a stout recipe, but the foams have turned brown and not white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to achieve 100% white foam, for example a guinness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe add the toast only for cold brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15152" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T10:34:53.583" Title="In search of white foam" Tags="|brewing|stout|foam|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24132" CreationDate="2019-04-29T19:37:04.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roasted dark malts, like black malt and chocolate malt, contribute to the colour of the beer foam. You should be using more roasted barley and less roasted barley malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that you can get a fully white foam head on a stout, but at least you can make it less brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/8196/how-to-affect-the-color-of-head&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T19:37:04.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24132" CreationDate="2019-04-30T00:50:05.777" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is your recipe (or at least your grain bill)? What kind of brewing are you doing, extract or all-grain? What kind of fining and conditioning are you doing? Do you whirlpool when racking to the fermenter? There could be so many variables...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I use a HERMS setup and do all-grain, and it recirculates the wort over the grain bed constantly, and that alone helps it to filter out lots of particulate, especially if you add some rice hulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also use some Irish Moss, which will definitely help the beer to be more clear[0], and then after your secondary, cold crash [1] it hard in a keg with pressure, with some gelatin[2] and lager it [3] (conditioning, not lager yeast) for a month or so, at least, to help the particulates fall out of suspension. You should get some gunk from the gelatin off the first pint or so, but then it should be more and more clear as you suck the particulate off the bottom of the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for whirlpooling, I actually did find an experiment where the outcome was a bit counter intuitive, the beer that had the trub from the kettle was more clear.[4]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using all of the above, combined, you should get a very very very clear beer, which should help with the head color. Unfortunately, none of the experiments I have linked were done with stouts... perhaps you can try it, and share your results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you can get a white head on a dark bodied beer, but you should be able to brighten it up if your beer is clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @chthon suggested, using roasted malts is adding to the head color, and using roasted barley instead should help, in theory. (details below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The small particulate roasted malts are what contribute to dark head color. Using them, should be fine, however, in theory. But you need to let the small particulates drop out of suspension, or filter them somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are three basic types of roasted grains: chocolate malt, black patent malt and roasted barley. Roasted barley is unlike the other two grains because it is made from unmalted barley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Raw barley goes directly into the roaster and is heated to temperatures as high as 446 ºF (230 ºC). The length of roasting time determines the darkness of the grain. This can vary from 250–600 ºL. It is during this roasting process that all the unique flavor profiles of roasted barley are produced. The most predominant characteristic is nutty and coffee-like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Of the three dark malts, roasted barley produces the lightest colored head. This is one of the characteristics that makes roasted barley an excellent choice for brewing dry Irish stouts. [5]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, are you using nitro or co2? Using nitro should definitely help with the head color and density, too...[6][7] Without nitro you could try alginate to help with head  density and retention also.[8]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[0] &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/03/16/the-irish-moss-effect-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2015/03/16/the-irish-moss-effect-exbeeriment-results/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2017/11/20/the-impact-of-cold-crashing-on-various-beer-characteristics-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2017/11/20/the-impact-of-cold-crashing-on-various-beer-characteristics-exbeeriment-results/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/01/05/the-gelatin-effect-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2015/01/05/the-gelatin-effect-exbeeriment-results/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[3] &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2018/12/17/the-lager-effect-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2018/12/17/the-lager-effect-exbeeriment-results/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[4] &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2014/06/02/the-great-trub-exbeeriment-results-are-in/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2014/06/02/the-great-trub-exbeeriment-results-are-in/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[5] &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/article/using-roasted-barley-tips-from-the-pros/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/article/using-roasted-barley-tips-from-the-pros/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[6] &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewsnews.com.au/2012/10/10/the-art-and-chemistry-of-beers-foam/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewsnews.com.au/2012/10/10/the-art-and-chemistry-of-beers-foam/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[7] &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.deschutesbrewery.com/feeling-gassy-co2-vs-nitrogen-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.deschutesbrewery.com/feeling-gassy-co2-vs-nitrogen-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[8] &lt;a href=&quot;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/j.2050-0416.1980.tb03953.x&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/j.2050-0416.1980.tb03953.x&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3436" LastEditorUserId="3436" LastEditDate="2019-04-30T01:20:27.610" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T01:20:27.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20500" CreationDate="2019-04-30T01:05:25.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't see grain crush size mentioned here... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this exBeeriment: &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/11/23/mind-the-gap-course-vs-fine-crush-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2015/11/23/mind-the-gap-course-vs-fine-crush-exbeeriment-results/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He actually made a stout with this, and stated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When presented these beers in a quasi-blind triangle, I was consistently able to distinguish them. I perceived the fine crush beer as having a fuller mouthfeel, greater complexity, and subtle alcohol twang in the finish. While my preference leaned toward the fine crush beer, the coarse crush sample certainly wasn’t bad! I experienced it as possessing a stronger roast character that was somewhat sharp and quite pleasant, although it came across much thinner than the fine crush beer and had qualities more consistent with Robust Porter than Russian Imperial Stout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3436" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T01:05:25.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24127" CreationDate="2019-04-30T03:01:58.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saisons, farmhouse ales, etc, with high temperature fermentations, and higher ABV, with high levels of phenols and esters are your go-to style with that temperature range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can definitely ferment other styles in that range, you'll just get more phenols and esters that is typical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm curious... What is your humidity level there? Could you use a swamp cooler effect, via a wet towel, spraying your fermenter with mist, etc...? When I lived in California, I fermented in my garage, and it got into the 90-100F range in the day time, which is about what you're working with there. I was able to drape a wet towel over my fermenter and put a fan blowing on it with a termocouple, and was able to keep the temperature around 70F due to the evaporative cooling effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could add a heater wrap to your fermentation vessel, and also add a fan and a wet towel. When it gets too warm, turn on the fan, when it gets too cold, turn on the heater and turn off the fan. Any off-the-shelf digital temperature controller should work for this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3436" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T03:01:58.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24132" CreationDate="2019-04-30T10:34:53.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a lovely dense head like a Guinness  then you will have to be serving your beer on a Nitro gas mix 70% N2/30% CO2. The nitrogen is less soluble in the beer and therefore creates a tighter denser foam in the head, which reflects the light better giving a whiter apperance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will usually have a slightly off white head on most stouts, but I have also read that roasted barley can help here. Not sure where though and can't provide a reference for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you need to know more about head retention and foam, then start with The Pope of Foam himself Prof Charlie Bamforth: &lt;a href=&quot;https://beersmith.com/blog/2011/09/28/head-retention-with-the-pope-of-foam-beersmith-podcast-23/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://beersmith.com/blog/2011/09/28/head-retention-with-the-pope-of-foam-beersmith-podcast-23/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T10:34:53.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24143" CreationDate="2019-04-30T23:01:16.230" Score="2" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;sorry if this is a question that’s been answered already. I’ve just completed a brew for a Belgian saison using wyeast 3724 and I’ve suffered the all to common stall that this yeast so often experiences. As the ambient temp in my home is circa 19c, I decided to try and kickstart the yeast back into action by raising the temp (this yeast is happier in the late 20s and up to 32 according to wyeast site). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I invested in a mangrove jacks heat pad as well as their dual temp controller (which is simply and branded stc 1000). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is twofold (I’m not an electrician and don’t profess to know anything about how it works):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - as I’m looking to get the temp initially to about 25 or 26c and hold it there, I won’t need a cooling aspect (i.e. fridge) as the room will slowly bring the temp down and the hysteresis setting will see to it that it doesn’t drop far. But is it okay / safe to just leave the cooling socket empty? I.e. the controller won’t burn itself out trying to drive something that’s not there? (I accept this might be a really stupid question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - with the ambient room temp at 19 and a target of 25 or 26c, the heat pad is probably going to be put through its paces and spend quite a decent amount of time switched on and heating (it’s currently been on for 6 hours straight which is what it’s taken to heat my brew from 21 to 24c). It’s a 25w pad. Anyone know if these are robust enough to just hook up to the stc 1000 and leave them to do their thing like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T16:09:12.767" Title="STC 1000 safety" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|equipment|fermentation-temperature|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-01T01:10:17.447" Score="2" ViewCount="927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently did two experimental all-grain gluten-free batches, and got some strange results; so much sediment that it looks like milk! Initially, looked about the same, and I thought about running through a filter, but decided to see if it would settle at all. After 5 days, this was the result. These do not have yeast in them, as I decided that I might filter and re-boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To the left is Batch 2, the shorter mash with the longer cereal cooking step which looks like rice-milk with only an inch or so clear at the top, to the right is Batch 1, which was the over-night mash. It looks almost normal now, but the trub layer is thicker than what I am used to seeing come straight out of a kettle... (Albeit this is only my third all-grain brew...)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BKdco.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BKdco.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left: Batch2, which is almost entirely a milky white. Right: Batch1, which looks ok other than the trub taking up a quarter of the jug.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My questing is what could have caused these (especially batch 2) to be so ridiculously cloudy?&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;I am guessing this might simply be small flour particles, but then why would batch 1 be clear of them?&#xA;Is it possible the higher temp of cooking in Batch 2 extracted more protien?&#xA;Is that related to the high gravity reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps my temperature control temperature on batch 2 was lacking, or the enzymes are not as potent as stated and failed to achieve complete conversion of starch? Could this result in cloudy wort? Why would the gravity reading be the same then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A second question would be how on earth can I filter this?&lt;/strong&gt; A coffee filter would surely just clog right up, and this stuff is so small it can go right through a fine mesh bag like it's nothing. Is there any practical way to filter these? &#xA;Is it possible that after fermenting, the whole thing would settle out somehow? Maybe it just needs more time? Like months?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;-Details-&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;For any possible relevant details I can think of... Here's the whole process. (These are 1 gallon batches.)&#xA;10 oz white rice&#xA;13 oz millet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grains were not malted. &#xA;Ground in a bur grinder set to it's most course setting, which resulting in a mix of particle sizes from what looks about corn-meal size down to very fine flour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2L of 'strike' water was used. (About 1.5 qt / lbs)&#xA;In both cases, the mash became thick and hard to stir before enzyme was added, and thinned very quickly afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The enzymes are SEBAMYL BAL and SEBAMYL L. According to the seller, they are best used together in a &quot;Reverse Step Mash&quot;, adding BAL first at 165, then adding L later at 145.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mash is where the two experiments diverge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch 1: Kettle on stove, keeping burner on very low to maintain temp.&#xA;Raise temp to 185 F, stir and cook for 20 minutes.&#xA;Wait for temp to lower temp to 165F, then add first enzyme.&#xA;After 60 minutes, lower temp to 145 F and add second enzyme.&#xA;I started doing did iodine tests after an hour, and after 2 hours still had indications of starch.&#xA;I decided to let it go overnight, using an oven to hold it near 145.&#xA;Iodine test still turned purple. Wort looked thin and tasted sweet though, so I decided to continue anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch 2 was done in an InstantPot pressure cooker, generally leaving heat off and relying on it's insulation to keep temp.&#xA;Same grain &amp;amp; water etc.&#xA;Cook at 212 for 30 minutes, stirring constantly. &#xA;Cool to 155, then slowly raise to 165. (To help ensure temp reading is correct.)&#xA;Added first enzyme and leave for an hour.&#xA;Cool to 145, add second enzyme, and hold for 2 hours. &#xA;This also failed the iodine test, turning dark purple immediately.&#xA;I figured the iodine test might be picking up flour particles, so I decided to ignore it and call the mash done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'sparge' step was the same for each. It was just me pouring a measured amount of warm water over the grains as they sat in a nylon mesh bag over a pot. This was done to help recover some of the sugars that would otherwise be lost between the grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this, I took gravity readings of each using a hydrometer. Samples were taken from each kettle and cooled to 68F (the hydro's calibrated temp.)&#xA;Both read 1.045, which is really weird to me, because I was expecting 23 oz of grain to yeild at most 1.025, of sugars...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added hops (pellet, but kept in muslin cloth bag), boiled both for 60 minutes, added about 1/4 tablet of whirlfloc in the last 10 minutes, chilled with immersion chiller, then racked. I did not add yeast, because I immediately noticed that they were both way too cloudy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17287" LastActivityDate="2021-05-09T09:36:05.063" Title="What caused my wort to be this cloudy, and how can I get it to clear?" Tags="|all-grain|mash|cloudy|gluten-free|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24141" CreationDate="2019-05-01T04:53:01.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah that's starch alright.  Add more enzymes, either at room temp or below 155 F.  I would expect enzymes to denature fast at 165 F.  Might need to leave the enzymes in overnight or even for several days?  I'm not sure how long as I've never done this.  Only boil after the iodine test comes out negative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No use in filtering with that much starch in there.  Gelatin might remove some minor haze, but probably not THAT much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish you the best, hope this works out for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T04:53:01.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24140" CreationDate="2019-05-01T12:32:50.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don’t worry, stupid questions do not exist, especially if it concerns safety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cooling socket can be left unplugged, it doesn’t matter. Even if the controller turns the power for cooling on without something plugged in, it won’t burn/short-circuit anything. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The controller is (or at least should) easily be able to handle 25W, even for months straight. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn’t do it already, you might want to wrap the bucket in some blankets to get to the desired temperature. I have a 25W heating belt myself and in my experience it is just not enough to get to the upper 20’s without insulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy the saison, a great style for the upcomming summer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T12:32:50.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24119" CreationDate="2019-05-01T21:41:16.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing 6 years now and have about 120 batches under my belt. I have never moved a beer to secondary. I've listened to a ready a lot on this topic and general consensus is it is no longer necessary (if it ever was). I rarely let a beer ferment two weeks before I bottle/keg it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for gravity check - I used a long &quot;straw&quot; to take sample via the airlock port which limited O2 issues. For me the concern was about infection. Today I use a Tilt Bluetooth hydrometer. Not super accurate, but it will tell you when the fermentation is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to @dmtaylor's point, removing a beer from the trub/yeast before the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobrew.com/book/section-1/what-is-different-for-brewing-lager-beer/yeast-starters-and-diacetyl-rests&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diacetyl rest&lt;/a&gt; can cause off flavors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T21:41:16.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24126" CreationDate="2019-05-01T21:44:06.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend skipping the secondary in the future. There is just no value and the downside is possible oxidation. These beers are super-sensitive to oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T21:44:06.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24140" CreationDate="2019-05-02T09:33:11.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The STC-1000 has two relays, each of which is rated for 10 amps (i.e. 2400W if your mains voltage is 240V). Your heat pad draws about 1% of that so you'll be fine. The STC-1000 is made for repeated on/off cycles so there's nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-05-02T09:33:11.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15094" CreationDate="2019-05-02T09:39:13.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please note that these mini kegs are rated for a maximum pressure of 4 Bar (58 psi). They are designed for counter pressure filling (where you can keep the pressure under control) and not for keg conditioning (where the pressure can get out of hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That doesn't mean that we can't use them for keg conditioning, of course. But be careful. These mini kegs have been known to rupture due to over-pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-05-02T09:39:13.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-02T14:06:21.340" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Palmer's popular &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-2/what-is-malted-grain/table-of-typical-malt-yields&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;list of typical mashing and steeping yields&lt;/a&gt;, pale crystal malt (25-40L) has a typical steeping yield of 22 PPG. Slightly darker crystal malt (medium, 60-75L) weighs in at 18 PPG when steeped, and dark crystal (120L) at 16 PPG. Fine, that makes sense: darker crystal malts have lower steeping yields, consistent with how they behave when mashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then we get to roasted barley and black patent malt, which both have a much lower yield when mashed, but are both listed as having typical steeping yields of 21 PPG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What causes this apparent anomaly? I.e. why do these very dark malts have a lower mash yield but a higher steeping yield than crystal malts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T18:07:08.767" Title="Why do very dark roasted malts have such a high steeping yield?" Tags="|specific-gravity|steeping|grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-02T19:49:04.893" Score="1" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started making my first ginger bug a week ago and it finally produced a bubble on the 7 th day! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m planning to brew a big batch of ginger beer in a 5 gallon carboy and I’m need 7 cups ginger bug in the recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, can I speed up increasing my ginger bug quantity by giving it a big feed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually feed once a day with 2 tbsp water 2 tbsp ginger and 1 tbsp cane sugar. Thank you very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17291" LastEditorUserId="18682" LastEditDate="2021-03-12T16:42:53.677" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T16:42:53.677" Title="Will bigger feed give faster increase in ginger bug?" Tags="|fermentation|ginger-beer|ginger|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-02T22:40:44.203" Score="0" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to brewing and also fermentation and I'm really confused when I start fermenting my ginger bug. I don't know when to screw my bottle tight and when to put a cheese cloth on top of the bottle and when to use airlock during the brewing process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put cheese cloth during first fermentation so I can capture more wild yeast into the bottle? But then if it start bubbling, the bubble will go away. Also it is suggested I shake the bottle every day, do I put the lid on, shake it and switch it back to cheese cloth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To screw the bottle tight in 2nd fermentation is to keep the Co2 in the bottle to make the drink fizzy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use airlock is when you try to brew alcohol beverage and you will feed more sugar to the yeast and it will be a longer fermentation, using airlock will let Co2 escape the bottle safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So am I right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I see people using airlock during first fermentation and some people make fruit yeast water in a tightly screwed jar, so I got confused. I hope someone can help me to understand. Thank you very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17291" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T13:02:10.253" Title="Question about Ginger Bug" Tags="|fermentation|yeast-starters|ginger-beer|ginger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24151" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2019-05-03T14:41:20.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My name is Andrew and I've been a homebrewer for a about 4 years now. I'm a programmer by profession so I spend a lot of time on Stack Overflow and the SE network in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been fairly active in the review queues and in meta and enjoy working through the review queues. If elected, I'm excited to see how the moderation tools may help with identifying other missed opportunities in terms of tagging or flagging questions that may have gone under the radar so far and discussing what improvements can be made in meta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've seen on meta I think I have a slightly broader view of what should be considered allowable on this site than some. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/450/is-this-question-about-sweet-liqueur-off-topic/451&quot;&gt;this meta post&lt;/a&gt;, which I self-answered and over time have become even more sure about. There are a lot of creative hombrewing-adjacent activities that I personally would like to see more questions about and, for better or worse, might be less likely than some to flag/delete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe I would be a fair, diligent moderator that might be slightly more permissive while still cleaning up bad tags, non-answers, and spam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2019-05-03T14:41:20.683" LastActivityDate="2019-05-03T14:41:20.683" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-05-03T14:41:20.683" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24152" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2019-05-03T16:21:59.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi my name is Steve Snyder  I started brewing in 1989. Was very active in the local homebrew club in Washington DC called B.U.R.P. where I won many competitions.  I started the process of becoming a BJCP way back in 1992, but never finished it because I moved to Seattle in 1995. I got the winemaking bug in 1998 and went on to open a winery that I owned and operated for 15 years until I closed it down in 2012 because of work and kids. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During that time in the winery, I grew my own grapes and made the wine. I scored internationally in such publications as Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast and many more. I also taught at the NW Wine Academy in Seattle for 2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I shut down the winery, I jumped back in homebrewing again with both feet. I have been avidly brewing beer since then. Participating on forums on Facebook and here. I have the highest rank on &lt;a href=&quot;https://alcohol.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;https://alcohol.stackexchange.com/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would definitely spend more time on the Meta if nominated but have actively participated in moderation of this and other stacks, if not a full moderator. I have a firm but gentle approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a data engineer by day. My wife say I am always fermenting something!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2019-05-03T17:45:22.170" LastActivityDate="2019-05-03T17:45:22.170" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-05-03T16:21:59.737" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-03T18:16:04.163" Score="0" ViewCount="3015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just made a Ginger bug, feed Ginger and sugar daily, during first 3 days it was perfect with bubbles forming, but on forth day, no bubbles seen and some white powder/coat  kind of substance on top of bug and on edges of bug.&#xA;When picked by spoon and rubbed on finger it kind of dissolves, even when shaken and stirring it dissolved in the bug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any of Friends have knowledge what is it, is in mold or fungus of any type, should I continue with it out throw it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17292" LastEditorUserId="17292" LastEditDate="2019-05-04T03:10:58.620" LastActivityDate="2019-10-27T06:00:45.257" Title="Ginger bug, white powder kind of stuff on top" Tags="|fermentation|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-04T19:41:10.973" Score="1" ViewCount="1324" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first brewing experience is gonna be bread Kwass (following this &lt;a href=&quot;https://natashaskitchen.com/angelinas-easy-bread-kvas-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recipe&lt;/a&gt;). Now, I browsed a bit to get some info, and I only managed to get terrified. There are three concerns that I would like you to help me with, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do I have to do in order to avoid a dangerous amount of methanol in the end-product.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About botulism: How do I avoid clostridium botulinum to germinate during the fermentation process (and kill everyone)? If the bread was not super fresh (a few days old, but no fungus on it), does it increase its chances of appearing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am planning to use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bordenenzo.nl/Files/9/141000/141584/ProductPhotos/Large/549645974.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fido bottle&lt;/a&gt; for the fermentation process. How often shall I &quot;burp&quot; it in order for it to not explode?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17293" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2019-05-09T08:33:40.880" LastActivityDate="2019-10-12T00:56:31.957" Title="Bread Kvass Safety Concerns" Tags="|fermentation|first-time-brewer|sanitation|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24222" CreationDate="2019-05-05T03:25:24.897" Score="1" ViewCount="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 3 gallon fermentation vessel which came with a scoby package that said it's good for one gallon. Do I need to use 3 of the scoby packages or will one do with just a little extra fermentation time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17295" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T09:50:16.897" Title="Kombucha starter: minimum quantity for successful brew?" Tags="|kombucha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24175" CreationDate="2019-05-05T08:14:40.813" Score="1" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve made a few recipes with different ratios of Water to Grain for mashing in partial mash recipes. Some seem to have too little water such that the grain bag is hardly submerged. Others are higher. &#xA;What is the optimal ratio for partial mash recipes specifically and do the different ratios accomplishing anything? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T12:16:31.597" Title="Mash Water to Grain Ratio (Partial Mash)" Tags="|boil|mashing|partial-mash|partial-boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24154" CreationDate="2019-05-05T13:55:33.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why do you think there will any problem with Methanol? According to the recipe, she says that you'll get to 1% ABV but I suspect it will be higher, but not by much. Methanol in fermentation is usually only a tiny fraction of Ethanol production, so almost no concern to you unless you plan on distilling it. That's usually where Methanol is a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since you are boiling everything (I would boil the raisins and sugar too), it will kill any chance that botulism would invade. Just throw in the yeast when it's cooled to room temperature and when that starts happening, the yeast out competes the botulinum from growing if there were any present.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Please do NOT use this glass jar. You could end up with something exploding. Use a large plastic bottle or a carboy with an airlock. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2019-05-09T14:02:35.383" LastActivityDate="2019-05-09T14:02:35.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24203" CreationDate="2019-05-05T22:22:09.433" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two beers (recipes &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/817219&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/813758&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). One is a session IPA, the other is a saison of sorts. They are two different beers fermented with different yeast, but both of them stalled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The session IPA fermented in primary for a week using Safale US-05 ale yeast; OG = 1.046, FG = 1.026. The saison fermented in primary for 2 weeks using Wyeast 3711 French Saison; OG = 1.091, FG = 1.034.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The IPA should have finished around 1.010, the saison should have been around 1.015 - 1.020. Both fermented out much higher than expected. Here are my ideas on why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It got too cold overnight (45-60F) where I ferment, causing the yeast to settle out early (and I didn't rouse them and warm them up because I thought they had just finished normally) - this seems to be confirmed in John Palmer's book &lt;em&gt;How to Brew&lt;/em&gt; (p. 446)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chlorine in the water causing the yeast to stall (I thought this just produced off flavors, but I don't know)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any other ideas. I'm leaning toward temperature control being the issue. I woke up this morning to find my 3.5 gal of stout at 58F and fermentation seemed to have pretty much stopped. I turned on the heat and roused the yeast by swirling and it's going again, back up to 68F and bubbling every 15 seconds or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did my ferments stall because of the cold or could it have been something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS - I should add that I made the first version of the tamarind saison last summer and FG was right on track at 1.010; that beer was fermented in August where I had AC set to 68F, and it took a week to ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16151" LastEditorUserId="16151" LastEditDate="2019-05-05T22:27:43.203" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T22:00:00.630" Title="2 stalled fermentations for two different beers/yeasts - what's going on?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24159" CreationDate="2019-05-06T08:11:39.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature changes in fermenting is rarely a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;a href=&quot;https://fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/SafAle-US-05.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Safale US-05&lt;/a&gt; the ideal range for fermenting is said to be&#xA;18-28°C (64-82°F), if the temperature drops to 45F in your fermenting space,&#xA;it could very well stop the yeast activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advice to control temperature of your fermenting wort by putting&#xA;a temperature controlled heater in order to stay in the correct temperature&#xA;range for your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, getting the temperature back up should restart your fermentation.&#xA;Of course, the endured stress and temperature changes makes the yeast slower than if it didn't stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T08:11:39.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24148" CreationDate="2019-05-06T18:07:08.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on Palmer's supposed test setup (he describes it at the base of the table), I suspect the steeping thing might be related to the friability of the malts.  For a simple steep those roasted malts are more brittle and crumble when crushed.  For a steep this might yield more apparent extract than the other malts that are less fragile and need the extended time of a mash to completely give up their apparent extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the only thing I can come up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a good example of how we give Palmer a lot of credit for a lot of things, but he isn't the best teacher at times.  Some of his stuff is confusing in the written format and only makes sense when you hear it from him in some of the recorded podcast formats he's a part of.  This table is one of those times I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T18:07:08.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9719" CreationDate="2019-05-07T14:39:45.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;water works just fine for me for over 150 5 gal brews&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17018" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T14:39:45.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-07T18:40:57.440" Score="0" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;After fermentation and going to keg, how long before the beer should be properly carbonated? I have the kegs in the fridge and set at 14 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17269" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T18:14:49.023" Title="Carbonation in fridge, How long?" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-07T20:44:32.747" Score="1" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for some useful suggestions. I’m a veritable noob when it comes to brewing. I’m on my second brew and already trying to experiment with my own recipe albeit sticking to extract / specialty grains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to do a saison style beer and landed on Wyeast 3724 for my chosen yeast. Brew went relatively straightforward and hit my target OG on the nose @ 1.062. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Into 5gal glass carboy for primary, pitched yeast and fitted blow off tube. A day in and super glad I used a blowoff as kreusen to the brim and into the tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 days into fermentation and activity completely ceased. Took a sample and OG only dropped 20 points to 1.042. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I’ve since read about problems that come with this yeast and that it is know to start vigorously and stall out around this point sometimes for weeks and weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also didn’t know about the high temps need for the yeast so the first week was done at 18c. At day 8 or 9 I ramped temps to 27c and held it there since. Now 16 days in and things are moving painfully slow. I’m in no rush but keep second guessing it and thinking I should dump and start again, perhaps with 3711 instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t want to pitch another yeast (but would use US05 if I did). So aside from the temp increase I’m thinking I could rouse the yeast some way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That’s where my question comes in - any suggestions about how to rouse it? I can’t give the FV much movement as the kreusen really caked onto the glass and I don’t want any of that to mix back into the wort.  Is there anything else I could try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, recipe was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8lbs extra light DME&#xA;1.25lbs Crystal 20L&#xA;1lb clear Belgian Candi sugar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steeped crystal for 30 mins @ 160f&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60 min boil of 3gal topped off with water to make 5gal total in FV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T15:14:22.613" Title="Finicky Wyeast 3724 Stall" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|stuck-fermentation|saison|wyeast|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24127" CreationDate="2019-05-08T04:46:42.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Greetings fellow tropical brewer! I am also based in Singapore, and the high ambient temperatures are certainly a challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other answers focusing on selecting warm-fermenting styles are also providing great advice, and indeed it's very possible to ferment great Saison styles here. If you're into funky beers, you'll have no trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As dmtaylor suggests, the Kveik strains are also generally very tolerant of high temperatures, and the local hombrew community has been having a great time with them lately. I have even heard of some guys deliberately heating their fermenters, to give you an idea of what's possible with these yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if you want to make a style that requires a specific yeast? Things like hefeweizen, or (whisper it) a lager?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What most folks here do is build a fermentation chamber using a chest freezer, or cheap bar fridge. You should be able to find these going cheap on the various second-hand classified pages (locally, Carousell seems to be the most popular). It's a straightforward task to wire up a temperature controller such as the popular STC-1000 to measure the temperature inside the chamber and switch it on and off automatically to maintain whatever setpoint you would prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I even recommend this approach for higher temperatures. First up, your repeatability/consistency will likely improve if you control the temperature. You'll have the option to experiment with strategies such as ramping up temperatures towards the end of a batch to encourage full attenuation, or cold crashing your fermenter to encourage the yeast to flocculate. And finally, the fridge or freezer will keep your fermentation nicely contained should a blow-off occur. This is helpful when you find yourself integrating your homebrew activities into a small apartment -- garages and basements are few and far between on this island.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! I would also encourage you to search for your local homebrew club, and see what others in your situation are up to. If you haven't checked them out yet, both our local hombrew stores are also well worth a visit and should be happy to help you solve this: whether you're after a turn-key solution or just some friendly advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17303" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T04:46:42.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-08T06:59:46.223" Score="3" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a good, in-depth source on biotransformations (think food science). For example, fermenting black tea and sugar with wild yeast and bacteria (kombucha):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wild yeast ferment sucrose into ethanol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bacteria (in the presence of oxygen) convert that ethanol to acetic acid (sours the solution and lowers pH)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a transformation of sucrose into acetic acid through the use of yeast and bacteria (but which ones?). Or:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Malting grain causes production of enzymes that later break down starch into sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mashing crushed grain allows starch extraction and conversion (by these enzymes) to (fermentable) sugars such as maltrose, dextrose, sucrose, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in what enzymes are produced by which grains, and how they convert starches and in what temperature ranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to study these types of biotransformations, including how varieties of yeast and bacteria make these transformations (i.e. bacteria converting ethanol to acetic acid only when oxygen is present). This means details on yeast, bacteria, and how they interact with one another in transformations of molecules (thus aromatic/flavor compounds, production of alcohol and acids, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there an authoritative (or close to it) source on the micro-level biotransformations that occur during fermentation&lt;/strong&gt;? I only know what I know from reading online about brewing kombucha and beer; sources seem to just say &quot;this happens when this&quot;, but without explanations as to &lt;em&gt;what is doing what&lt;/em&gt;, which is what I want to know more about!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Super bonus points&lt;/em&gt; if there's a sort of almanac of common brewing ingredients. For example, breakdown of various malts and their enzyme content, adjuncts such as herbs/spices and their chemical makeup (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linalool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;linalool&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citronellol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;citronellol&lt;/a&gt;, etc.), the like. I find the micro-level of fermentation fascinating, and I'd like to finally learn how to balance the bitterness of my hibiscus saison by taking advantage of microbes or a change in the preparation of ingredients/fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just found &lt;a href=&quot;https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/a/115222/25486&quot;&gt;an amazing example&lt;/a&gt; of the genre of information I'm looking for on Chemistry.SE. It talks about the use of lemon juice in cooking with fish, and the reason why so many recipes use lemon juice. There is a chemical reason for adding lemon juice, and it's fascinating to see those molecules interact to change a dish. I'd love to have this kind of information, but for beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16151" LastEditorUserId="16151" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T01:13:30.277" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T15:28:08.477" Title="Microbial interactions: biotransformations and food/drink science" Tags="|fermentation|ingredients|flavor|chemistry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24167" CreationDate="2019-05-08T10:46:38.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to shake the FV and just mix the old krausen back into the beer. It came out of the beer in the first place, and it should not have any significant impact on the end result as it drops out. Besides, it could be beneficial for the yeast to introduce some fresh oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much volume did you brew? In general one smack pack is not enough for a 5 gal beer of this gravity. Belgian strains tent to produce lot of phenols and esters when under pitched and are prone to stalling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So shake it, keep the temp high and wait a few days for it to take off again. If it doesn’t, consider pitching that us-05. Most of the yeast phenols and esters that give the saison its character, are produced in the first days (or hours) of fermentation, during the yeast growth period. Adding a neutral yeast like us05 wont impact the end result much I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T10:46:38.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24167" CreationDate="2019-05-08T12:50:15.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just be patient. This is a known issue with this yeast when fermented at lower temps. Most times it will wake back up and finish out after a few weeks. If it doesn't, many labs suggest using a clean fermenting strain like White Labs WLP001 to finish fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T12:50:15.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24127" CreationDate="2019-05-08T13:17:59.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://omegayeast.com/yeast/norwegian-ales/hothead-ale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Omega Labs HotHead&lt;/a&gt;(Norwegian Style). Also, take a look at some Brett strains, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.whitelabs.com/yeast-bank/wlp645-brettanomyces-claussenii&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;B.Claussenni&lt;/a&gt; is happiest at 25C+. Therefore combinations of Saison, Kevik, Brett C, and/or Hothead, should allow you to have a fair amount of fun and experiment with a wide range of styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not be afraid to play with the proportions of yeasts you use in a given brew to get the ester profiles you are looking for from the yeasts. You can mix a very clean yeast like Hothead or a funky Brett C and an &lt;a href=&quot;https://fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/SafAle-S-04.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Britsh Ale Yeast&lt;/a&gt; to get the British Ale charchter, the British Ale yeast at higher temp will start to taste more Belgian in style, but many of the off flavours I find are 'cleaned up' by Hothead or Brett C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...or, you can add the flavour profile yeast on day 2 or 3 of fermentation and ferment for the first couple of days with a very clean yeast, so you only get a smaller amount of esters from your 'flavour strain' this way it does not have time or enough sugars to produce too many off flavours and your clean strain will have done most of the heavy lifting so to speak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;~70% of your esters are created in the first 3 days of fermentation normally at 30C I would expect that to come down to 2 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend getting a copy of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yeast-Practical-Fermentation-Brewing-Elements/dp/0937381969/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yeast by Chris White&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T13:17:59.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24166" CreationDate="2019-05-08T17:24:45.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you are at 14PSI and that you chose a pressure setting based upon the temperature in the fridge and the carbonation level you want to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing &quot;set and forget&quot; one week should do it, maybe 10 days.  Depends to a small extent the type of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T17:24:45.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1936" CreationDate="2019-05-11T05:15:06.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wort grant is used for reducing the vacuum pressure risk during lauter process, so it can protect the false bottom from out of shape.The reason is, during lauter process, with the wort grant, the wort flows out from the lauter tun into the wort grant by gravity only（not by direct pumping). This process is gentle and easy to control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For operation, the inlet valve of the wort grant is half open, and also adjust the pump speed accordingly to match that speed, so the wort flows are same at the inlet and outlet. So the wort flow is continuous during the whole lauter process. This is also good for pump as the pump do not need to open of close frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Level balance tube: It is like a indicator and also protect the false bottom during lauter. The brewers knows if the lauter is smooth or not through checking the wort level inside the tube. When the tube is full, it means the lauter is smooth and the pressure is balanced. When the tube is not full, it means a vacuum problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://microbrewerysystem.com/Blog/Wort_grant_operation_during_vorlauf_process_1048.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://microbrewerysystem.com/Blog/Wort_grant_operation_during_vorlauf_process_1048.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;brau@cnbrewery.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17311" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T05:15:06.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24157" CreationDate="2019-05-12T12:16:31.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mash ratio is not really essential.  Your ratio of 5 L to 4 lb grain is pretty typical.  Mash at whatever ratio seems right to you, then add extract if necessary, with water to hit your preboil volume, then brew as normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BIAB is indeed a great option and is what I do on my stovetop.  I can do up to 6 gallons in 4 large pots but typically I only brew 2 gallons (8 L) at a time anyway.  Batch size is totally up to your personal preference as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no one optimal way to brew.  We all brew differently.  The end result is the same: good beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T12:16:31.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-12T18:40:18.603" Score="1" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used this Quickcarb to carbonate my beer, but when bottled (with a BeerGun) I get too much foam in the bottle and almost no beer, after finally filling the bottle I tap it. And when I try my beer it does not have almost gas or sometimes nothing ...... do you have any advice that can help me with this? I would greatly appreciate it :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17316" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T19:01:30.200" Title="Blichmann QuickCarb and Bottling" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|co2|force-carbonation|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16792" CreationDate="2019-05-12T21:37:19.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a wine is too sweet, then fermentation is not complete. Unfermentable sugars are not usually present in wine unless they have been added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you detect microbial levels? Dissolved CO2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16409" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T21:37:19.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-13T09:17:11.597" Score="1" ViewCount="1199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if there is a sensor that can monitor its alcohol content and displaying it to my LCD display. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your answers would be a great help to my dreams. I'm a computer engineer taking my research Subject. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17319" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T16:42:10.857" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T18:53:51.953" Title="Sensor for measuring alcohol content of wine" Tags="|wine|measurements|alcohol|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24178" CreationDate="2019-05-14T12:27:36.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are sensors that do this.  I am not personally familiar with their accuracy, maintenance or robustness.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am aware of this type of device from Anton-Paar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.anton-paar.com/us-en/products/group/alcohol-meter/?ref=adwords&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8NbFgYKb4gIVV4ezCh0fUAdfEAAYASAAEgLswfD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.anton-paar.com/us-en/products/group/alcohol-meter/?ref=adwords&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8NbFgYKb4gIVV4ezCh0fUAdfEAAYASAAEgLswfD_BwE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T12:27:36.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24167" CreationDate="2019-05-14T12:36:38.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Saison strains are very sensitive to CO2 toxicity.  Most of the CO2 produced during fermentation escapes out the airlock but some of it does dissolve into the beer.   (A taste test of a small sample of any fermented beer will be slightly carbonated as a result of this).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Swirling the fermentor occasionally during the fermentation process agitates the solution and CO2 will come out.  You will see the airlock gurgle away.  After a couple days of this the ferment will restart and finish the beer.&#xA;The reason why the high temp concept works is not that the yeast need heat.  It works because the increase temp decreases the solubility for CO2 in solution. The CO2 comes out and the yeast start to ferment again.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This has been my experience with side by side testings.  Do it carefully as to NOT introduce new oxygen into the beer.  There should be enough CO2 escaping to prevent it from happening as long as you are not overly aggressive. (i.e. don't think opening a bucket fermentor and stirring it is better than shaking.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T12:36:38.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24176" CreationDate="2019-05-14T18:48:15.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are bottling beer that is already carbonated, ideally you want a counter-pressure filler. The filler pressurizes the bottle, keeps it sealed, and then you activate the filler. I don't know if the Blichmann rig does that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you can do is make sure your beer is as cold as possible. The colder the beer is, the better the CO2 will remain in solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17323" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T18:48:15.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24178" CreationDate="2019-05-14T18:53:51.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are relatively affordable devices (iSpindel and TILT) that continuously report specific gravity wirelessly. You can use the data to derive the alcohol content with a pretty good degree of accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not exactly what you asked for but it wouldn't be too hard to make it work the way you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17323" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T18:53:51.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24166" CreationDate="2019-05-14T19:14:29.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with Brewchez. That's pretty much what I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you're in a hurry, you can speed things up by shaking your keg for about 30 seconds or a minute. Then let it sit for a day to settle down and give it a try. Agitating the keg speeds absorption of C02.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17323" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T19:14:29.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-15T11:15:35.643" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about getting a Brewjacket to control my fermentation temps. Anyone use one? I'm wondering if the $400 pricetag is worth it. Seems like it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17269" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T13:51:56.157" Title="Anyone Use Brewjacket" Tags="|fermentation|temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24185" CreationDate="2019-05-15T13:10:44.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the price, couldn't you just get a decent mini fridge and a temperature controller? Better yet go over that 400 by 10-20 percent and get an entry level kegerator. There are plenty in the 350 to 450 range, some with internal temperature controllers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An added bonus with the fridge is you can have the option to keg in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T13:10:44.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24198" CreationDate="2019-05-15T13:15:33.370" Score="3" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like your input as to why my FG was far from the theoric on from brewer's friend calculator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Grain Pale Ale:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maris Otter 4.7k&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roasted Barley 94 gr&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chinook 12 aau min 60&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cascasde 5 auu min 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S-04 re-hydrated in one cup of water at room temperature &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batch Size 20L&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Wort: 12.9L&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - water ph:6-7 I didn't have the machine yet, only with the papers&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Sparge:14.7L&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - ph_wort_preBoil: 6&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - ph_wort_postBoil: ~5  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use brewer's friend calculator and got these numbers for theory:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - OG_theory:1.053&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - FG_theory:1.013  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my real gravity numbers:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - OG_real:1.058&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - FG_real:1.027  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use refractometer with ATC to meassure gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermenting temperature was between 18°C and 22°C.&#xA;I didn't have any problems during boil temperature-wise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I read, it could be the yeast so I was hoping you will have any input as to why I didn't get closer to the FG (I understand theory is only theory but still I'm far I think)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17326" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-05-15T13:36:04.660" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T13:02:59.963" Title="Pale Ale All Grain, FG not achieved" Tags="|yeast|all-grain|final-gravity|efficiency|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24185" CreationDate="2019-05-15T13:20:25.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently using &lt;strong&gt;Keg Cooler Mini 9,4 l - Cool Brewing&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;It's cheaper than what you are looking, I put a bottle of ice to cool down changing it per day if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17326" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T13:20:25.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24185" CreationDate="2019-05-15T13:51:56.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never used one, but I did a little research for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It claims to be able to ferment up to 35º above or below your room's ambient temperature, which is great since a mini fridge would cool but not heat your wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biggest negative point (besides the price tag) is that it doesn't seem to work with a glass carboy.  Assuming you want to use it with a carboy, it would have to be a plastic one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is one comment from amazon: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After receiving the brew jacket pro I can only say it's a disappointment it does not work with glass carboy only plastic and that is limited. The tiny port cloggs with. Very active fermenting beers. The jacket is cumbersome to use and required. The temp sensor is external wine cider require an external sleeve not included need special sanatizing solution. After cleaning up the mess. Temp appears to be holding but it's usefulness is yet to be determined. Be aware of its limited usefulness before you buy or gift. There is better brewing equipment that cost less and would be more useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is great, it is not as cumbersome as a fridge, but for the price you decide if it's worth buying...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T13:51:56.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24187" CreationDate="2019-05-15T14:54:36.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using a temperature of 22-23 C, especially towards the end of the fermentations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17018" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T14:54:36.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24187" CreationDate="2019-05-16T00:45:01.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refractometer does not read correctly when alcohol is present.  It is important only to measure in Brix, never specific gravity.  Then use the following conversion calculator to determine the true final gravity and alcohol by volume.  Very very important fact that many people miss!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this calculator, I'm willing to bet the actual FG is very close to 1.009-1.010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-05-16T01:01:51.753" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T01:01:51.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24169" CreationDate="2019-05-16T15:28:08.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything you're asking for in answers are covered in a variety of brewing books. But no single source covers everything your asking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grain enzymes. This is basic and covered in all beginer brewing books. How to brew by Palmer has a great table on temps, enzymes and protein interactions. Short answer, alpha and beta amylase are the enzymes that convert the starch to fermentable sugars but are not &quot;made&quot; in a brewing process, they're already in the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bacteria. Ethanol to Acid conversion is from acetobacteria and has no place in beers, even sour beers. It's used in making vinegar etc. Lactobacillus is what makes sour beers converting sugars to acid and is also naturally occuring in grains.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Kombucha uses a SCOBY which is a pairing of fungus and bacteria. Also used in some Asian beers but mostly saki.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hibiscus Saison. I've worked with this flower a lot. It has a unique property, hydroxycitric acid. Which can be hard to balance. It works very well in IPAs with an IBU above 80 which masks the acid bite. Other styles are balanced with residual sugars usually a FG of 1.016-1.018 does well. Trick is to back off on the bittering hops and allow the acid to balance the beer. Its best as a late fermentation addition IMO but also good for a flame out at 165°F. Hydroxycitric acid is an enzyme inhibitor, so do not add it to the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lemon/lime juice in cooking books don't really describe what's going on well. Many raw fish dishes will use acidic juice. In short it's a chemical pasteurization that most harmful bacteria / parasites can't survive by lowering the ph. Also helps break down protien fibers to make it tender.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T15:28:08.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24051" CreationDate="2019-05-16T15:53:18.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say you have lager yeast hanging out in your system. Roasted grains will have more maltotriose, a sugar ale yeast can't consume, but lager can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would explain why they're fine until later on, lack of off flavors and cold storage doesn't hold off the process. The acid bite, is probably the natural acid in dark grains without the maltotriose to balance It out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use an iodine based sanitizer on everything cool wort touches on your system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T15:53:18.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24176" CreationDate="2019-05-16T16:07:55.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's either over carbed or the beergun line needs tuned for the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a fan off applying increased pressure to carbonate quickly. When doing this you throw out all the math tables that have been established for proper carbonation,and are left guessing your final co2 volumes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonate and Serve your beer at the pressure the style calls for. Usually 12-13 psi at 38°F for most styles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then tune your beergun line. Get it to pour about as slow as you can stand it, I have mine set to pour about 3/4 oz a second so a 12oz is about a 20 second fill. I don't bottle much obviously, only for comps, gifts, etc. But anything faster, needs counter pressure imo to preserve the co2 volumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T16:07:55.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-19T05:26:28.783" Score="0" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grapes picked, denuded from stems, put through juicer, strained through fine cloth into bucket. Yeast growth noticed so removed from top of juice, restrained through fine clothe into bottles. Bubbles noticed in bottles and within 24 hours the corks on the bottles are popping. in other years I have juice at this stage but this year the process has sped up. No other ingredients added, just the grape juice. What is happening please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17330" LastActivityDate="2019-05-22T16:35:12.317" Title="Fresh grape juice and fizzing" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24196" CreationDate="2019-05-19T10:39:35.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation due to wild yeast.  You could try adding one Campden tablet (crushed) per gallon to slow it down but it will likely continue anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-05-19T10:39:35.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24187" CreationDate="2019-05-20T13:02:59.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your pH of 6 preboil indicates that your pH was off the target during the mash.  This likely favored alpha amylase activity over beta amylase. This led to a more dextrinous wort which would increase the amount of non fermentables, contribute more body and finally lead to a higher than anticipated/desired FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T13:02:59.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10873" CreationDate="2019-05-21T06:15:59.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made apple cider (hard cider) using bakers yeast (instant dried).  No problems.  Fairly high alcohol content. Took about a week for fermentation to stop.  It tasted like a potent dry white wine with a hint of apples.  It flocculated perfectly and after fermentation the dead yeast sedimented perfectly on the bottom and the remaining hard cider was quite clear.  I'm new at this and I am having one issue.  Read numerous articles on washing (mainly beer brewing) and saving yeast.  All of them are contradictory.  I still haven't managed to save any live yeast after fermentation no matter what method I try.  I perform the sugar and water test.  Nothing.  It's like all the yeast dies once fermentation is complete which might be the case since there is lot more sugar in apples than in say hops hence the alcohol might actually be killing all the yeast at the end.  Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17333" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T06:15:59.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24196" CreationDate="2019-05-22T16:35:12.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately you have figured out how to make wine. There isn't probably any way you can stop it short of sterile filtration, heavy use of potassium metabisulfites or freezing. You can let it run it's course and you'll have some wine or next time just freeze it and drink it when you need. The grape juice you see in the stores have been sterile filtered and chemicals added to stop fermentation. Good luck next time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-05-22T16:35:12.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24153" CreationDate="2019-05-23T14:07:00.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably mold. Have you tasted the bug yet? Some molds just form on the surface (probably because they need oxygen) and can be removed, or just allowed to fall to the bottom over time. They don't affect the flavor or safety of the drink. Other molds ruin the flavor of the drink. I'd give the bug a taste and decide what to do next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you use an airlock when ferementing the Ginger bug? That would help protect it from airborne molds and bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17323" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T14:07:00.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24159" CreationDate="2019-05-23T22:00:00.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd stay they got crashed out with the temp swings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring them up to 68°F and rouse the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chlorine gas a low boiling point and is all but gone after a few minutes above 96°F. Chloramine different animal, doesn't boil out. And will still work as a sanitizer to rid water of bacteria / fungus. Usually the pitch overwhelms the effectiveness of the sanitizer. Yes it usually just manifests as off flavors rather than stalled fermentaions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing would be that it is at terminal gravity and the sugars left are just not fermentable or still starch. Typical of a very high mash temp 159+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T22:00:00.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-23T22:25:13.627" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;What component increases the alcohol content in beer? I would like to know this for future brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17339" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T19:15:26.987" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T09:40:39.387" Title="What changes the alcohol content of beer?" Tags="|ingredients|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24204" CreationDate="2019-05-24T00:20:28.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word, sugar.  In presence of yeast.  The yeast acts as a catalyst to a chemical reaction where sugar plus water converts to alcohol and carbon dioxide.  More sugar, with yeast in the background, gives more alcohol (and more CO2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people will simply add a pound of plain white sugar to any recipe to add more alcohol.  Cheap and effective.  You can add any sugar source that you like, including honey, brown sugar, fruit juice, agave.... probably hundreds of sugar sources, and they all work, except for a few oddballs like lactose which is not fermentable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-05-24T00:20:28.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24204" CreationDate="2019-05-24T17:00:59.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For recipe ingredients, in an all grain, more grains gives you higher alcohol content. More grains -&gt; more sugars -&gt; more alcohol. Mash conversion is also a factor in all grain. If your mash is subpar, you'll get less of fermentable sugars and more of non-fermentables or even fail to extract the contents of the grains at all. Some key factors could be pH of the water, temperature control, or insufficient enzymes (not enough barley per other grain types).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For extract brewing, more extract = more alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the yeast matters some as well. Some yeasts will leave more unfermented sugars than others. This is called attenuation. Yeast that attenuates more will result in higher alcohol content as well as a &quot;dry&quot; (less sweet) beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All things being equal though, adding more fermentables (grains, extract, sugar) is the most effective and easiest way to boost alcohol content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15936" LastActivityDate="2019-05-24T17:00:59.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-24T17:42:07.133" Score="1" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to do step mashing in my kitchen by only using a 15Amp 120V outlet. It seems like the most efficient heat transfer from electricity to wort would be directly heating a tube, either stainless or copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes this is a lot like a RIMs, but a flat coil directly laid on an induction hot plate is about as easy a build as you can get, and hopefully would also give very even heating (no scalding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plan would be to measure the temperature of the wort re-entering the mash tun, and control the induction hot plate output accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15936" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T19:02:55.340" Title="Would an induction hotplate be able to heat a recirculation coil?" Tags="|temperature-control|mashing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24208" CreationDate="2019-05-24T18:49:16.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start, only if your coil is magnetic. Second, most induction plates measure how much area is used through the magnetic field. If the area of your coil, that is the real metal that goes through the magnetic field, is too small, your plate will refuse to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I don't see any problems. The only thing would be to get enough power into your coil to heat the wort, also due to the limited area of the coil metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-05-24T18:49:16.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-24T20:51:55.750" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;This site has quite a few post on how to &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/8063/1643&quot;&gt;clean and re-use bottles&lt;/a&gt;.  In this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/1207/1643&quot;&gt;community wiki&lt;/a&gt;, we learn that by putting foil over the top of bottles and baking them for 60 minutes at 340, we will sterilize bottles. &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/17861&quot;&gt;Another mention&lt;/a&gt; credits Palmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, given sufficiently baked bottles with aluminum foil tops, the consensus is that the bottles may be stored indefinitely without the need to immerse in a sanitizing solution before filling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is about how long to trust an alternate technique: &lt;strong&gt;whole box baking&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer cases are prepared with a clean paper towel on the bottom of the case (so any debris in the bottom of the case doesn't come into contact with the bottle).  Cleaned and rinsed bottles are placed into the case upside down (inverted).  The entire box is placed into a 170 degree oven until the glass gets to at least 170 degrees for one hour [&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/10444/1643]&quot;&gt;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/10444/1643]&lt;/a&gt;.  Note that I'm not advocating anyone try this technique, certainly don't leave the kitchen if you do, in case something gets hotter than you expect and fire breaks out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the entire box is removed from the oven and stored in a climate controlled environment (my closet), and left undisturbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long will the bottles remain clean enough to fill without immersing in sanitizing solution?  Is this technique as effective as the aluminum foil technique, so allowing the bottles to be filled without further sanitizing no matter how much time passes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T14:11:47.450" Title="Will baked bottles stay sanitized if kept inverted?" Tags="|bottling|techniques|sanitation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-27T10:04:47.833" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a beergun to fill my Beer from the fermentor into my bottles. I got the Feeling that it shoots alot of O² in my Beer. The Beer turned Out super hazy (Not Sure If its because of the gun).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are beerguns bad in generell or do i miss Something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rack from one fermentor to another to leave trub behind and than just fill up the bottles from the dischard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my next batch i'll do 50% of the bottles with the beergun and 50% without and See if the gun is the Problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17344" LastEditorUserId="17344" LastEditDate="2019-05-28T11:28:42.373" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T01:02:45.467" Title="Beergun too much O² in bottles?" Tags="|beer|beer-tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24212" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-28T18:06:28.637" Score="1" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;After experiencing midnight explosion in 5L keg few year ago, i researched for safer ways to prime. Ever since i was measuring dextrose and adding in each bottle per its volume (and desired CO2) and filling up directly from the fermentation container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started to wonder if there is a shortcut and if this technique is considered sterile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After much reading, i find many people use a bottling bucket to add sugar/dextro in a batch after boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have an extra container but without spigot and without auto-siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any tips for other ways to add the priming sugar in a sterile way (and easy)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Isnt it an issue to fill up 5L kegs, 0.5 and 0.33 from the same batch with the same amount of sugar/dextro?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17349" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T11:17:07.470" Title="Priming kit beer without bottling bucket" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|priming|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24212" CreationDate="2019-05-28T22:22:26.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's easy to overprime a 5L mini-keg.  They only need 1 tablespoon sugar to prime, which is much less than an equivalent 5L in various bottle sizes.  This is because the amount of head space in a keg is much different than the neck of a bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bottles, I always bulk prime with 2 tablespoons sugar per gallon.  This will rarely overcarbonate, only if fermentation was not 100% complete prior to bottling.  I boil the sugar in about 2 cups water, then cool, then add to the bottling bucket, or I guess you could add to the fermenter if not using a bottling bucket.  You can use whatever size bottles you like, it makes no difference, they will all carbonate the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 5L kegs, I still boil the 1 tablespoon of sugar in about a 1/2 cup of water, then rack the beer into the keg.  Then allow 10 days or so to carbonate, same as bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-05-28T22:22:26.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-29T02:42:39.150" Score="1" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’d like to brew a spiced Autumn Ale, but somehow also combine it with Apfelwein. Can this be done? Sort of, a bastardized version of Graf (Graaf / Graff) Recipe I have calls for adding “pure apple flavor” during priming, and I thought, hey, WTF, maybe use a Apfelwein, instead? Any other way come to anyone’s mind? Could this be done during fermentation? Could you add something already fermented with a considerable ABV to an ale still in fermentation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17351" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T02:42:39.150" Title="Combining Autumn Ale and Apfelwein" Tags="|cider|ale|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23981" CreationDate="2019-05-29T04:42:50.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alcohol inhibits pectic enzyme.  At around 16% you have some issues.  Double the dose (of enzyme) and maybe double the time to clear, maybe 2-3 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17345" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T04:42:50.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24212" CreationDate="2019-05-29T11:17:07.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After considering all the options i've decided to continue add sugar directly into each bottle (per kit instructions) but in a more sterile way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will add the &lt;strong&gt;102gr sugar into 100mL of water&lt;/strong&gt;, bring to &lt;strong&gt;boil&lt;/strong&gt; and then &lt;strong&gt;cool it down&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Using syringe i will dose&lt;/strong&gt; per the following math formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;102gr = 100mL (102gr sugar added to 100mL of water)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100mL * 0.5L / 22L = 2.27mL for each 0.5L bottles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100mL * 0.33L / 22L = 1.5mL for each 0.33L bottles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking of beer kits, their usual instructions are not 100% sterile as they always recommend to add 20~L of un-boiled water, in addition to adding un-boiled priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17349" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T11:17:07.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24210" CreationDate="2019-05-29T15:37:33.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a MUCH simpler method.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;.&#xA;At bottling time, I put all of the bottles I will need for a 5-6 gallon batch into the dishwasher (upside down, of course).  Turn the heat up on the water heater, and allow it to get hot.  Run hot water in the kitchen sink until it is hot-hot, then start the dishwasher.&#xA;.&#xA;When the dishwasher is done, start bottling.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;.&#xA;Open the dishwasher.&#xA;Take out a bottle.&#xA;Close the dishwasher.&#xA;Fill the bottle.&#xA;Repeat.&#xA;.&#xA;I have NEVER had a beer go bad on me, nor develop any off taste using this method.  It's also much simpler, does not use any sanitizer (so no waste), and saves you the work of sanitizing bottles one by one.&#xA;.&#xA;You can also go one step further, and give each bottle a rinse via a Bottle Jet prior to putting them in the dishwasher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17353" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T15:37:33.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24153" CreationDate="2019-05-30T04:31:17.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I made a good Ginger bug, just sharing my experience :-&#xA;Use air tight container, initially I used cloth to cover the container which might have lead to developing mold/yeast. But then I transferred it to an air tight jar, then it went okay and fermented it for 10 days without any molds/yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17292" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T04:31:17.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-30T04:43:08.713" Score="4" ViewCount="2932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have fermented Ginger bug for 15days, feed it daily with additional Ginger and sugar, then stopped feeding  further and kept it as it is for 5 days. Now I have refrigerated it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must say that whenever I make a lemon drink from this bug, I do feel  intoxicated &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if this Ginger bug can turn into Vinegar if fermented for a long period, and keeping it unrefrigerated (in air tight jar).&#xA;does that happen with Ginger bugs???&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17292" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T10:01:32.777" Title="Can a Ginger Bug fermentation turn into Vinegar" Tags="|fermentation|ginger-beer|vinegar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24166" CreationDate="2019-05-30T18:14:49.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This covers it for most people I know and has the carb chart for the set and forget method as well:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/methods/carbonation-methods/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/methods/carbonation-methods/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13721" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T18:14:49.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24219" CreationDate="2019-05-31T11:16:13.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any fermentation left for too long with live yeast, especially with access to air/oxygen, will eventually turn to vinegar. Closing of the air /oxygen by &lt;strong&gt;sealing&lt;/strong&gt; rather than covering will slow this down significantly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17355" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T11:16:13.873" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24156" CreationDate="2019-05-31T11:19:39.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;More time is fine. Due to growth rates, if you use only 1 pack then you will need  approximatley  2.5 times as long in the fermnter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17355" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-06-04T09:50:16.897" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T09:50:16.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24150" CreationDate="2019-05-31T11:28:29.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're pretty much spot on. A couple of notes-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Capturing wild yeast is OK but uncertain. I've always preferred to keep wild yeast out of my bug because it's much more likely (at least over time if you keep your bug alive batch to batch) to cause sourness or astringency in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you need to seal it for the co2 to dissolve and make it fizzy. I don't advise sealing for the whole time. Last third - quarter of the brew time, or seal a open daily to prevent excess build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheese cloth and airlock do the same thing except airlock prevents wild yeast or air entering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of varying opinion because many things work. The only 2 rules I'd say are 1) start with a very sanitary container, and 2) of storing your beer for a long time then don't try to include wild yeast. Enjoy :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17355" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T11:28:29.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24210" CreationDate="2019-05-31T14:11:47.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the specific questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;How long will the bottles remain clean enough to fill without immersing in sanitizing solution?&quot; I would say &quot;a long time&quot;, i.e. several months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's based on my own experience, not research. My experience has been that clean, sanitized bottles can sit upside down in bottle boxes for at least several months. My presumption is that if you have bottle sanitization problems, you will see variability in your bottles, i.e. some will be good, some will be bad. (If they are all bad, it's likely an infection occurred before bottling.) You are saying that the bottles will be literally sterile when you store them, so unless the boxes are a strong infection vector, you should be okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Is this technique as effective as the aluminum foil technique, so allowing the bottles to be filled without further sanitizing no matter how much time passes?&quot; Nope! But it's a little less work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17323" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T14:11:47.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24211" CreationDate="2019-06-01T00:39:47.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;BeerGuns are for bottling finished beer from a pressurised keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're not well suited for fermenter to bottle transfers for conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T00:39:47.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24219" CreationDate="2019-06-01T17:45:00.233" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off all... If you're new to this, relax. There's a few sensible precautions to take that make a difference - sanitise your equipment before hand, keep it upside down when empty, keep your brew covered when not actively using it, start with either a bought yeast / bug, or a starter from a friend / trusted source. Do all these and you'll almost certainly get a decent brew. Almost everything else you read affects either speed of brew, the type of beer/wine /etc., or the &lt;strong&gt;nuance&lt;/strong&gt; of flavour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Time&lt;/strong&gt; this depends on what you're trying to make. If you want a small regular amount of tonic or health drink (similar to the way kefir is made and used), then a pint of brew with a little sugar could be ready in 2 days. This kind might be fine (depending on heat / yeast type / volume /sugar concentration) for up to 2 weeks before you would need to drain and refresh the fluid and add sugar to 'feed' it. If you want 3-5% beer for drinking, then 1.5kg sugar in a 2 gallon container at 15°ish might take 2-4 weeks. I used to make 5 gallon batches of ginger beer with 3 or 4 kg sugar and champagne yeast that I left for 6 or 7 weeks before bottling and it wasn't always finished fermenting by that point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vinegar&lt;/strong&gt;(and related sour &amp;amp; off flavours) can basically be caused by 4 things. In order of most likely /fastest...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A **Bad /unwanted bacteria and yeasts. These float around in the air, particularly near any kind of non - alcoholic fermentation and microbe growth (eg bread making, kefir, vinegar making, kombucha, and also smelly bins and grimy or mouldy kitchen corners). This one is the reason for taking care about sanitation. No need to go mad about sanitation, but take care like described above. The reason they're unwanted is because they don't just produce alcohol, they also produce vinegars and other things that &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; taste off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B ** Brewers yeast / ginger bug eating the sugars in the presence of oxygen. Your starter yeast will produce co2 which will gradually push all other air out of the way in a sealed /one way container. This co 2 release is why cheese cloth works up to some limit of time (see below), airlocks work for longer and a sealed &amp;amp; released container or a fancier pressure released container are basically fine for a long as you like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C ** Oxygen directly reacting with alcohol = vinegar. With a cheese cloth covered container, oxygen will gradually start to enter the container a bit of time after the fermentation has stopped. This happens slower without live yeast to help it along. This is NOT a problem if you have a sealed container or pressure system or airlock as these will all keep some co2 pressure inside the container after the  fermentation has stopped. If you're doing a 1 pint tonic type thing with cheese cloth then I'd probably put it in the fridge after 3 or 5 days so that the bug slowed right down but kept producing a little co2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D ** Dead yeast can sometimes impart a &lt;em&gt;small&lt;/em&gt; flavour to the finished brew. This is the other reason for A. Essentially, brewers yeast or a good home grown bug are chosen 1) because they mostly produce alcohol not other stuff, 2) because they don't taste too bad in themselves, and 3) because they sink or float, making it easier to separate the finished beer from the yeast. They'll only taste bad if an unwanted stain of bacteria or yeast has gotten in and started eating either the sugar or the dead yeast. Otherwise you're fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17355" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T17:45:00.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24229" CreationDate="2019-06-02T02:34:04.160" Score="2" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer (extract-based English bitter) has been in bottles for 3 weeks at cellar temperature (~60-70 F) with very little carbonation occurring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of a few things I might have screwed up to get here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Under-primed. I used the low end of the recommended amount of corn sugar because I do want this to be only lightly carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Old caps. Some of the caps I used were a few years old. Possibly they couldn't hold the pressure (but the plastic liners didn't seem any stiffer than the ones on some new caps I have).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Didn't allow my bottles to dry sufficiently after sanitizing in bleach solution and killed the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking I'll have to pour all this beer out back into my fermentation bucket and let it sit for 24 hours to de-chlorinate. Then re-prime and re-bottle with new caps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any easier way to recover from this problem? Is there any other possible cause of the problem I didn't think of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update two weeks later: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It seems that some bottles have better carbonation than others. I guess this points to I might not have mixed the priming sugar syrup into the wort well enough before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is enough carbonation in most bottles to cause some dramatic foaming if you drop in a carbonation drop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After adding carbonation drops to a couple of bottles and waiting another week, there is still not much carbonation there (but maybe this is due to increased headspace in the bottles after adding the carbonation drops).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17358" LastEditorUserId="17358" LastEditDate="2019-06-19T02:42:07.213" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T02:42:07.213" Title="How to recover from failed carbonation?" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24228" CreationDate="2019-06-02T12:15:39.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bleach-water has to be rinsed off well before filling bottles.  Allowing it to dry is not adequate.  The bleach probably killed the yeast.  The bleach will also introduce a chlorine and/or chlorophenol flavor which could taste like medicine or Band-Aids.  For this reason it is more often recommended to try using no-rinse sanitizers such as StarSan or iodophor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have lost this batch.  You can still attempt to carbonate, if it doesn't taste off, by uncapping, pour all into a bucket, add ~2 grams new yeast, re-prime using 5/8 cup sugar per 5 gallons, or 2 tablespoons per gallon, then re-bottle.  Personally I think it would be simpler to just add 1/3 tsp sugar to each bottle then recap, rather than going through the entire bottling process again; however, in this case, since the yeast might be dead, it's better to add more yeast and priming sugar in bulk and re-bottle... and hope that the new yeast somehow manages to survive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe the caps are the problem.  I've bottled ~150 batches in the past 20 years, used many old caps, and I think I only had one or two leaking bottles total in 20 years, probably due to some deformation in the glass more than the caps.  However, I suppose it's possible you could have a bad capper, that happens occasionally, but if yours is new, this is unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, and better luck next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-06-02T12:22:25.683" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T12:22:25.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-02T20:30:31.833" Score="5" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/2766/what-is-cold-crashing&quot;&gt;this question defining cold crashing&lt;/a&gt;, there is some discussion of ramping the temperature down slowly over a long time, but then says quicker cold crashing is possible if the beer has already completed fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this question, I'd like to explore an appropriate, quick, and effective cold crash technique on an ale that's had plenty of time to ferment and &quot;clean-up&quot;.  And for this example, the purpose of cold crashing is primarily for settling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the carboy is in a refrigerator which is turned on normally (no external temperature control), it will take some time for the heat to be removed from the volume of beer.  If the beer started at, say, 68F, with the refrigerator &quot;on&quot;, there would be a ramp down, and within 6 hours, the beer would be at, say, 40F.  Then you'd wait Y hours as settling continued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What range of Y would you expect 50% of the eventual settling to be done?  What range of Z would you expect 90% of the settling to be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in this diagram, I have assumed that settling happens faster earlier, and slower later.  This may or may not be your experience (could be linear).  The blue line is the temperature of the beer.  The black line is the amount of settling over time, starting at no cold crash settling and ending when 90% of the eventual possible settling is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVT4m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVT4m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;temperature and setting fraction graph&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2019-06-02T20:39:28.457" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T14:02:30.493" Title="How long does clarification take given a refrigerator temperature level cold crash?" Tags="|conditioning|cold-crash|clarification|packaging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-03T09:31:33.957" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just received a kit which says that the expiration date is in April 2019 (2 months ago). I am quite confident that the extract is still okay, but I'm wondering about the yeast. Is it still alive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not so easy to get new yeast, as there are no local brewing shops in my area and I'll have to order it online and wait for quite a while for it to arrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17329" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T09:45:31.280" Title="Recently expired kit. Is the yeast still ok?" Tags="|yeast|brewing|kits|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-06-11T21:22:53.467" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24231" CreationDate="2019-06-03T11:42:56.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The better question is:&quot;what temperature has this kit been stored at?&quot;&#xA;If your kit has been in a cool basement or the like, the yeast ought to be still be good and other ingredients okay. If the kit had been kept in the hot garage/attic/ storage building, then the yeast will be dead and the LME/ DME will be nasty, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17361" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T11:42:56.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24228" CreationDate="2019-06-03T11:48:43.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best way would be to keg it up! (if feasible)&#xA;Under-priming the sugar is the usual culprit for no conditioning.&#xA;If it was caused by your sanitizer, you'd taste it. (look for the note on the back end of the taste, not initial)&#xA;It seems unlikely it could be old caps. I've had caps over 20 years old work fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17361" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T11:48:43.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24204" CreationDate="2019-06-03T12:01:25.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Except for lactose, it is sugars that are converted into alcohol and CO2 by YEAST.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now your question asks &quot;what CHANGES THE ALCOHOL content of beer&quot; could also be interpreted as, &quot;what happened to my alcohol in my beer?&quot; That would be ACETOBACTER converting your alcohol into acetic acid (vinegar). This happens from gnats and improper sanitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17361" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T12:01:25.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24204" CreationDate="2019-06-04T09:40:39.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While &lt;code&gt;dmtailor&lt;/code&gt; is correct, a footnote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alcohol content is the result of &lt;strong&gt;fermentable&lt;/strong&gt; sugars. Unfermentable (or nearly unfermentable) sugars such as lactose, dextrins and caramelized sugars just hang around and add sweetness, body and (in the case of caramel) color to the beer but don't add alcohol in significant amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that large amounts of refined sugars (cane sugar, corn sugar, etc.) can change the way your yeast ferments alcohol and may cause it to loose its ability to ferment malt sugars (maltose, maltotriose) and cause stuck fermentations. Yeast is best suited to ferment malt sugars and while it will happily handle small amounts of refined sugars, large quantities of refined sugar can have adverse effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T09:40:39.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24231" CreationDate="2019-06-04T09:45:31.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer kit yeast is made to be almost armagheddon-proof, which means it can be stored at room temperature for at least its listed shelf life. Because there is generally amply sufficient yeast in the packet (much more than needed) you almost certainly have enough viable yeast left to ferment your beer, so you should be fine. I have brewed with expired yeast without problems. One word of caution, though: a lot depends on how the yeast has been stored. Higher temperatures reduce its shelf life significantly. So when in doubt err on the side of caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, personally I would replace kit yeast with a better yeast in any case because it will give you a much better beer. Kit yeast is cultivated to robust and idiot-proof (read: it will keep forever and do more or less the same job over a wide range of temperatures, oxygen levels and what not, but that comes at the price of a more neutral and far less interesting flavor profile. It will ferment your beer, but that's about it: it won't contribute significant quality with flavor components formed by the yeast during fermentation. A &quot;proper&quot; beer yeast (Fermentis, Lallemand, etc.) for the style you're brewing is always a good way to improve a kit beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T09:45:31.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9857" CreationDate="2019-06-04T09:52:19.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Head formation and retention is mostly a factor of medium-length proteins in the beer. Extract kits are notoriously low in these medium-length proteins. This is why kit beers (such as the one you brewed) tend to have the head retention of a class of coke. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to increase the beer's head is to add a lot of dry hops to the fermenter. This helps a little, but it won't get you to the kind of head that a full grain beer has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &quot;heading agents&quot; which can be added to a beer kit to provide more head formation and retention. These are usually based on iron/magnesium salts, gums and alginates. Ask for it at your LHBS. Commercial products such as Stabifoam are generally used for beers with a high rice and corn content (which suffer from the same deficit in medium-length proteins and other foam-related ingredients).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T09:52:19.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24219" CreationDate="2019-06-04T10:01:32.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick answer - If you feed it for a long time or leave it for too long, so long as your sanitation is good it will should not turn to vinegar. But, the longer it is kept and the more often it is opened for feeding, then the greater the chances are that there is a contamination event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bug gets contaminated with aceterbacter then yes it can turn rapidly into vinegar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you leave any solution containing ethanol exposed to oxygen then over time it will be oxidised to acetic acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have sanitized your equipment and keep the fermentation covered to prevent bacterial ingress then you should be able to keep a healthy fermentation progressing, with regular feeding or by front loading all the sugar an ginger at the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once fermentation has completed you should bottle using sanitised equipment in to sanitized bottles then drop these in the fridge, or leave out of the fridge for a while to carb up. Then so long as your sanitation was effective, your bottle caps seal well and you did not get excessive DO (disolved oxygen) pickup during bottling, you should not get noticable vinegar formation. There will always be a tiny amount from oxidation of ethonal but not usually above taste thresholds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules are sanitise, sanitise, sanitise and have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T10:01:32.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24240" CreationDate="2019-06-04T16:11:13.410" Score="3" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the following recipe on Brewers Friend:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/528861/kellermeister&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/528861/kellermeister&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;This is a traditional all grain recipe and I would like to brew it with my BIAB setup. &lt;br/&gt; But I'm having trouble understanding/converting the mash steps described on the recipe, which are the following:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Amount  Description Type    Temp    Time &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;--      Infusion    53 °C   20 min &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;--      Infusion    65 °C   30 min &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;--      Temperature 70 °C   30 min &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;--      Fly Sparge  76 °C   15 min &lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Infusion and Sparge steps are quite clear, &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;But I don't understand what the temperature step means. &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;What is this step and how does it look in a biab setup? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastEditorUserId="15010" LastEditDate="2019-06-04T16:16:37.123" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T19:22:38.113" Title="What is the meaning of the &quot;Temperature&quot; mash step on Brewers Friend?" Tags="|mash|recipe|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24239" CreationDate="2019-06-04T17:05:42.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;BrewTarget has the same properties for mashing, including infusion and sparge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In BrewTarget, it means that the temperature is increased by applying external heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For BIAB and using a mash setup with a cooler, this is not always feasible, unless an external heat stick is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a kettle on a direct heat source, it is simpler to increase the temperature of the mash directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that the temperature step is just a typo or misconfiguration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T17:05:42.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24239" CreationDate="2019-06-04T19:22:38.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As indicated by @chthon, it looks like they intend for you to provide external heat to meet the 70 C temperature, not by adding more hot water but by turning on a burner or heat stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is debatable whether these extra steps have much benefit versus an infusion in between, let's say 67 C, for 30+30=60 minutes instead of dividing it up at 30 &amp;amp; 30.  But, of course, feel free to experiment and form your own conclusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T19:22:38.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2019-06-05T15:55:41.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's feasible to have a &quot;negative&quot; gravity reading; alcohol is less dense than water and if all of the fermentables are gone there's nothing to push the density higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently fermenting a Brut IPA, made from all barley and wheat (no adjuncts whatsoever). I used WLP001 and glucoamylase enzymes, and the current gravity reading according to both my refractometer and my Tilt hydrometer is 0.998, or -0.45 °P. I mashed at the low end for sure, never going above 148 and most of the conversion probably happened around 145. I have no reason to suspect an infection (and it's not my first negative gravity beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the math for adjusting a refractometer reading in the presence of alcohol, you could in practice see an FG as low as 0.990, assuming a very dry, very strong beer (10% ABV) with OG of 1.068. But that's extreme brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17368" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T15:55:41.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24245" CreationDate="2019-06-05T20:44:58.097" Score="2" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a vegetarian, but due to the diverse group of people which do or might consume my beer, I like to keep out any ingredients that might be derived from animals. I recently started using whirlfloc tablets to help with clarity. Are these considered to be vegetarian friendly? Could they also be considered vegan friendly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T22:10:45.897" Title="Are Whirlfloc Tablets Considered Vegetarian?" Tags="|clarification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24244" CreationDate="2019-06-05T22:09:10.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whirlfloc should be considered vegan because it's made from purified seaweed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whirlfloc tablets are a blend of Irish Moss and purified Kappa carrageenan that encourages the precipitation of haze causing materials such as proteins and Beta glucans. Prepared in a quick dissolving, highly soluble tablet form. Almost everyone who tries Whirlfloc tablets prefer them to regular Irish Moss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Irish Moss is made from seaweed &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is Irish Moss?&#xA;  Irish MossDon’t let the name fool you. Irish moss (Chondrus crispus) is not the fuzzy, green plant covering stones and creeping up old walls. It’s actually an edible seaweed that grows along the rocky Atlantic coasts of Europe and North America. Typically dark red, purple or brown, the soft marine plant has been used as a brewing additive for nearly 200 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kappa Carrageenan is also seaweed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A natural hydrocolloid, carrageenan is a natural extract from specific red seaweed species that are farmed and processed. It is used as a suspending and emulsifying stablizer, thickener, binder and gelling agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T22:09:10.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24244" CreationDate="2019-06-05T22:10:45.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've confirmed with Google that Whirlfloc consists of &quot;A blend of Irish Moss and purified carrageenan&quot;.  It's basically seaweed.  Therefore, I'm sure it's perfectly fine to use for vegetarians and vegans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's gelatin, another clarifying agent that comes from animal bones/cartilage, that they might have more of a problem with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T22:10:45.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-06T08:46:04.407" Score="1" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;So i just started making my homemade mead for first time and i had been fermenting it for 3 weeks. But it has stopped bubbling and i was worried it stopped carbonating and it smells like strong wine and tastes of it too. Did i do something wrong or is it the brand of yeast?.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17369" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T21:15:44.937" Title="I need help with my mead. Did i go wrong?" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24247" CreationDate="2019-06-06T11:15:01.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it smells and tastes like wine, then congratulations, you've made mead.  Whether it's a mead that you enjoy, or not, is a matter of experience and personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-06-06T11:15:01.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-08T14:24:14.603" Score="4" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if it is possible to barrel ferment white grapes/wine. I can only find information on the web about red wines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to this process I have some questions and assumptions; I hope someone here can help me with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct to assume that barrel fermenting also adds color to the end product? Do people here know of commercial wines that do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if it is possible, what are the steps to go from primary fermentation to malolactic fermentation when barrel fermenting a white wine? Do I need to rack it? Can I just take out the skins and leave the rest in the barrel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sidney de Koning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17244" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T23:38:16.007" Title="Barrel fermenting (white) wine. Questions and assumptions" Tags="|wine|secondary-fermentation|primary-fermentation|racking|barrel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-08T21:38:02.030" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed several small pink colonies  on the foam of a second stage starter that I made from recovered yeast (originally Gigayeast: GY 054) that was mixed with 25% glycerin and frozen. They were not fuzzy as might be expected for a mold or mycelial species. I've done some research on the Web and PubMed in particular and have found two genera of wild yeast that might be responsible: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhodotorula&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rhodotorula&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://ijs.microbiologyresearch.org/content/journal/ijsem/10.1099/ijs.0.65580-0?crawler=true&amp;amp;mimetype=application/pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sporobolomyces&lt;/a&gt;. I didn't find any representations that these were feared contaminants in beer and decided to pitch the starter but also decided to attempt making a second batch with similar ingredients using fresh GY 054 to make another 1L starter. I'll keg them both in a few weeks and report back, but in the meantime I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced the same issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16361" LastEditorUserId="16361" LastEditDate="2019-07-11T22:45:52.613" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T22:45:52.613" Title="Pink (or salmon) colored colonies on foam in starter flask" Tags="|reusing-yeast|yeast-cultures|wild-yeast|disinfecting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-09T01:32:57.167" Score="2" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;recently bought northern brewer irish ale and yeast was misplaced. can I use bakers yeast? Also, how long will wort last before adding yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17374" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T23:17:51.540" Title="Brewing with bread yeast" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7128" CreationDate="2019-06-09T05:15:52.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Degas your mead as it is too acidic. Below 3.4 pH it will stop fermenting. Here is a video showing how to remove the acidic CO2 from your mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9G9zpYfMxA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9G9zpYfMxA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/8ajzp74Srf8?t=483&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/8ajzp74Srf8?t=483&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also dilute your mead by adding water to raise the pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17375" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T05:15:52.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24018" CreationDate="2019-06-09T05:51:50.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not stuck if the air lock bubbles. Wait 1-3 days between successive specific gravity measurements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raise the temperature to 70F. That is an ideal yeast temperature. (Show us the manufacturer's link to your yeast strain.) For example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en/united-states/product-details/lalvin-ec-1118/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en/united-states/product-details/lalvin-ec-1118/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIpyL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIpyL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here we see a temperature of 20C (68F) is ideal for fermentation (for this strain). If it's colder, it will be much slower and sluggish. You can get a heating pad with a temperature control to keep it at this temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stop shaking it. It should be aerobic for the first 3 days, then anaerobic. It also allows the dead yeast to fall to the bottom for racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17375" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T05:51:50.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24258" CreationDate="2019-06-09T09:33:54.200" Score="3" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see 'bait buddies' and 'liquid oxygen' supplements. Can I use these to oxygenate the water to give the yeast nutrients when starting mead fermentation? None of them  really say the actual ingredients. Do they leave behind additives? Are they food safe for humans? I imagine the 'liquid oxygen' supplement is, but that product description uses words in an entirely different way from their normal meanings. Liquid oxygen is freezing cold. If it means oxygenated water, how does it not degas during shipping? How many drops would I need for 5 gallon fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=oxygen+tablet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=oxygen+tablet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about magnesium oxide? I know magnesium is safe to drink. Does the oxygen dissolve in the water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17375" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T17:27:16.813" Title="Can I use oxygen tablets or liquid oxygen to oxygenate my water for yeast fermentation in mead?" Tags="|fermentation|mead|oxygenation|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24254" CreationDate="2019-06-09T13:26:53.050" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want alcohol, you don't need to oxygenate the water - this will give you vinegar instead. Seperate answer, almost everything designed for a fish tank (like bait buddies) will be fit for human consumption because the fish live in the oxygenated water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17355" LastEditorUserId="17355" LastEditDate="2019-06-10T13:37:31.847" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T13:37:31.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24251" CreationDate="2019-06-09T13:29:35.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Baker's yeast is a very poor yeast for brewing - prone to infection and produces poor alcohol content before dying off. Your wort should keep for a day or two if tightly covered, but if unsure, you can reboil it to sterilise before brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17355" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T13:29:35.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24251" CreationDate="2019-06-09T23:17:51.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is very little difference in price compared to a big difference in results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.breadworld.com/education/History-of-Yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bread yeast&lt;/a&gt; feeds on starches in the flour, producing CO₂ which expands the gluten proteins in the flour, gluten proteins cause the dough (of which flour is a main ingredient) to expand and rise. Baking removes the alcohol. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/101/yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beer yeast&lt;/a&gt; is designed for low temperature and consists of a yeast called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_cerevisiae&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saccharomyces cerevisiae&lt;/a&gt; (Brewer's yeast, also used for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yeast_in_winemaking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wine&lt;/a&gt;) or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_pastorianus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saccharomyces pastorianus&lt;/a&gt; (for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lager&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lager&lt;/a&gt;) while &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baker%27s_yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Baker's yeast&lt;/a&gt; is a different strain; though similar to brewing yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation of fruit (grapes, plums, etc.) is a faster process than the fermentation of wheat, potatoes or corn.  This is because most fruits, when ripe, store carbohydrates as a monosaccharide called fructose.  Yeast can metabolize monosaccharides immediately.  Cane sugar (sucrose) is a disaccharide.  Most species of yeast have the enzyme sucrase.  Sucrase breaks sucrose into the two monosaccharides glucose and fructose.  However, potatoes, corn and wheat store carbohydrates as a polysaccharide called starch.  Starch is a large molecule composed of many monosaccharides linked together.  Yeast cannot metabolize starch directly. The starch has to first be broken down into its monosaccharides, which are glucose.  Yeast lacks the enzyme amylase that will digest starch into glucose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In beer brewing, germinating barley is added to the fermenting wheat.  The germinating barley supplies the enzyme diastase which breaks the starch into maltose, a disaccharide of glucose.  The yeast can separate maltose into glucose, but the metabolism of maltose by yeast is a slow process.  As the maltose is hydrolized into two glucose molecules, the glucose is then fermented into ethanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://eckraus.com/vintners-harvest-profiles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wine yeast&lt;/a&gt; is specifically developed to produce results designed for the type of wine you are making. From ECKraus Blog - &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.eckraus.com/wine-making-bread-baking-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Making Wine With Bread Yeast… Not!&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bread yeast will ferment alcohol up to about 8% with ease, but when trying to produce alcohol beyond this level, the bread yeast begin to struggle, very often stopping around 9% or 10%. This is short of what we’d like to obtain for almost any wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason making wine with bread yeast is not a good idea is that bread yeast do not clear out very readily or settle very firmly, either. They typically will form a low layer of hazy wine in the bottom of the fermenter that will never completely clear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even more importantly, bread yeast produce alcohol that is plagued with a lot of off-flavors. The bread yeast becomes so stressed and has to work so hard that off-flavored enzymes and fatty acids are produced along with the alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several other issues with using bread yeast to make your wine, but these are the big ones: the alcohol, the clearing, and the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while Baker's yeast, used for beer, probably won't affect the strength it won't taste correct and the poor flocculation would make the resulting brew excessively cloudy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17222" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T23:17:51.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24254" CreationDate="2019-06-10T12:12:40.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't think of these things necessarily food safe.  I wouldn't be adding something like this to my beer/mead without knowing what other substances are in it.  You are overthinking the oxygenation/aeration process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from using a small O2 tank and stone; people are making excellent mead by simply agitating the must during transfer and/or shaking the must in the fermentor for 5 minutes.  There is plenty of O2 in the headspace for good yeast health.  It's just a matter of ensuring enough contact with the must.  Shaking or agitation temporarily increases the surface area of the must with that available O2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T12:12:40.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24261" CreationDate="2019-06-10T16:59:28.140" Score="2" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed a NEIPA and fermented it with London ale III. I pitched the yeast 2 and a half days ago and it started fermenting around 6 hours later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to dry hop at high Krausen but when I opened the fermenter the Krausen had already dropped. I took a gravity reading and it had dropped to 1.018 from an OG of 1.064 already. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that anything to worry about? I pitched at 20 degrees Celsius so 68 F and that's bang in the middle of what's recommended so there shouldn't be any problems there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just checking and the airlock is still bubbling every 30 seconds or so. Just curious where the Krausen went so fast because I wanted to dry hop at high Krausen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 12 litre batch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16040" LastEditorUserId="16040" LastEditDate="2019-06-10T17:18:26.557" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T21:29:44.447" Title="London Ale III Fast" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-10T20:39:01.357" Score="2" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wine making kit, the must is for making an &quot;old vine&quot; zinfandel.  However, I purchased it just prior to moving and it was never opened and never make into wine. Would it be worth even trying to make it into wine now after more than 5 years sitting in the garage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17378" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T13:24:01.277" Title="Delayed Project" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24259" CreationDate="2019-06-10T21:29:44.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry that that you missed High Krausen, but on the positive side all is not lost. Sounds like you had VERY good fermentation conditions and healthy yeast. While I've never had a beer reach final that fast I've found that when the conditions are good fermentation can happen a LOT faster than expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would still dry hop it as planned. I am told that by dry hopping during the most active fermentation that some of the UNisomerized hop gets deposited on the side of your fermentor while leaving just the good stuff. Personally I've not found a huge difference between dry hopping during &quot;High Krausen&quot; and later. I would just stick as close to the recipe as you can and enjoy what sounds like a great beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the best thing to do would be to repeat this recipe exactly only this time be ready for the quick fermentation get your hop addition in during &quot;High Krausen&quot; and see if you can tell the difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13721" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T21:29:44.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-10T23:41:47.987" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a pale ale, 100% 2 row, ~13*P, hopped to about 40IBU with Azacca, and fermented with Voss Kveik at around 30*c. I ended up with an awful hose water flavour, which I can only assume is chlorophenols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had this flavour only once before, about 5 years ago, on a different brewing rig, with entirely different ingredients. I'm confident in my sanitation, and as I haven't had this issue before with this setup, I'm confident in my water, as well as my process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, I also made a stout the same day, immediately after the pale, and it shows no sign of this flaw. To make matters even murkier, the flavour seems to have diminished greatly after about 3 weeks in a keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any thoughts as to what might have happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T21:27:07.490" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T22:00:37.970" Title="Possible chlorophenol issue?" Tags="|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2019-06-11T06:54:21.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use pencil and paper. I like knowing what's happening and not having to figure out software quirks, plus I also hate brewing with a computer. I find paper is the most versatile as well, you can bend it to fit whatever hare-brained process you choose to use on the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T06:54:21.597" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-06-11T06:54:21.597" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24260" CreationDate="2019-06-11T12:09:14.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's always worth trying because it's always worth learning.  As long as you are willing to face the reality that it might get tossed out later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T12:09:14.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24247" CreationDate="2019-06-11T21:15:44.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;sample the mead and check the gravity and flavor. it should be within 0.05 of 1.000 and not terribly sweet if done&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17382" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T21:15:44.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24018" CreationDate="2019-06-11T21:20:58.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;given the other replies, consider making a yeast starter for next time - weak beer + yeast + nutrient in a 1L flask (borosilicate) prepared 2-3 days ahead of time, giving you way more cells to operate on the mead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17382" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T21:20:58.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24269" CreationDate="2019-06-13T05:17:53.553" Score="2" ViewCount="2125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see comments on YouTube about how oxygen is bad for mead. However, according to Wikipedia, oxygen is good for yeast to develop resistance to alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yeast_in_winemaking#The_role_of_oxygen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yeast_in_winemaking#The_role_of_oxygen&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yeasts are facultative anaerobes meaning that they can exist in both the presence and absence of oxygen. While fermentation is traditionally thought of as an anaerobic process done in the absence of oxygen, early exposure of the yeast to oxygen can be a vital component in the successful completion of that fermentation. This is because oxygen is important in the synthesis of cell &quot;survival factors&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is wrong with aerating a fermenter or introducing oxygen during racking? Won't that strengthen the yeast for secondary fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17375" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T14:09:33.117" Title="Why is oxygen bad for mead?" Tags="|yeast|mead|oxygenation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24268" CreationDate="2019-06-13T13:04:25.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are confusing a couple of things. You want oxygen for a robust fermentation, no doubt about that. BUT, after the primary fermentation is done, you want to cut off the supply of oxygen otherwise the mead/wine/beer will oxidize because there is nothing to consume the oxygen. With beer we replace that with CO2, but with mead and wine you need to do something to keep the oxygen away. That means in an aging vessel with little headroom and probably potassium metabisulfite which is a strong antioxidant. Mead doesn't undergo a secondary fermentation, unlike wine. But even then, the bacteria that causes that does not need oxygen to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, during primary lots of oxygen. After primary is over, keep oxygen away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2019-06-13T14:09:33.117" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T14:09:33.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24018" CreationDate="2019-06-13T13:21:57.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is the yeast is just being a bit slow to get up and running given the high gravity, and you under pitched the quantity of yeast, I have used 2 packs before for a mead to give it a boost at the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would pitch some extra yeast. No need to make a starter, just add a whole extra pack of dried yeast to the top and leave it for a few days. It will start slow, most meads do as there tends to be a low level of free nitrogen and other nutrients, but give it time and it will usually get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In future I would suggest adding half the honey on day 1 then adding the second half 3 days later, it helps reduce the stress ont he yeast. You can do it with mor eincremental additions if you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-06-18T13:49:02.463" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T13:49:02.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24260" CreationDate="2019-06-13T13:24:01.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @brewchez says try make some wine with it, only thing I would additionally suggest is buy a new pack of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T13:24:01.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18683" CreationDate="2019-06-15T23:30:08.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m somewhat new to brewing but I’ve brewed a few different beers with fruit and in my experience adding fruit to the secondary fermentation seems to work better if you’re trying to keep the flavors and aromas intact. I don’t know about bananas but I’ve been curious about that too. My brother and I brewed a cantaloupe IPA and it was amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17384" LastActivityDate="2019-06-15T23:30:08.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5194" CreationDate="2019-06-17T22:27:34.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been getting my wine made at a Wine store for years.  I have a sulphite allergy so they added Bayer Aspirins instead of the sulphites to stop the fermentation.  I'm not sure of the number but I think it was about 6 tablets for 5 gallons of wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17387" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T22:27:34.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7310" CreationDate="2019-06-19T18:51:08.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar issue at the moment.  I am attempting a Cascadian Coffee ale.  My bitterness is coming from the coffee.  I used 4oz coursely ground light roasted coffee in secondary fermentation.  At the same time I am amping my AVB's a little so I added a pound of corn sugar.  I may have pulled a wild yeast strand from the grounds but I'm pretty sure it's just the coffee itself.  I'm almost considering trying some sort of lactose if there are no other suggestions.  I'll sample it again tonight and either rack it in a keg and let it sit or fool around with lactose.&#xA;Anything?  Wow this is an old thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17390" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T18:51:08.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24050" CreationDate="2019-06-20T07:12:26.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never heard of using ground ginger to make a ginger bug, since its been processed all the wild yeast that ginger has would be dead/gone. I would suggest finding fresh ginger root and grating it with the peel on, as the peel has the highest concentration of wild yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If ginger is hard to get hold of, I have seen people talking about using green pine cones to start their bug.&#xA;I have done this numerous times with great success. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17389" LastActivityDate="2019-06-20T07:12:26.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18683" CreationDate="2019-06-20T12:35:47.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though your question pre-supposes using bananas to impart a banana flavour into the beer, may I humbly suggest an alternative?  It requires FAR less effort than what you're getting yourself into here and has some very banana beer at the end of it ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed a beer recently that I called '21 Bananas' ... it was a Hefeweizen popular for the reason it tasted so heavily of bananas.  It had zero bananas in the recipe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is to use the right yeast and the right temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The name of the beer included a 21 because that was the degrees Celsius it was brewed at - relatively high, which promotes the yeast to produce more banana esters.  You could brew at a higher temp for even more banana, if that's what you're after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast I used was Mangrove Jacks M20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16546" LastActivityDate="2019-06-20T12:35:47.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-21T02:49:54.927" Score="3" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attempting my very first homebrew and was wondering if anybody has used or had any thoughts on using Turbo Clear to help with clarifying your beer? Planning on bottle priming when the time comes. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm starting a Mexican Cerveza kit from Brewhouse just for information. Thanks in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17396" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T02:33:48.400" Title="Turbo Clear for beer" Tags="|beer|clarity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12374" CreationDate="2019-06-21T06:19:33.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also get 9L kegs. If you think there's scope in the future to do half batches, then this would allow you do that easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T06:19:33.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-21T07:43:55.183" Score="1" ViewCount="4491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to make ginger beer and the first attempt bombed, for some reason. I'm not clear if it's because of residual bleach, or tap water at the wrong point, or what. I was about to give up and toss the ginger bug out when I saw it was relentlessly fizzing so I gave it another shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bottled the 4L of mixture (with 200ml of Ginger Bug) into flip-top bottles. Twenty four hours later I wanted to check the carbonation, so I opened the first bottle. It blew the cap right off and dumped about half the bottle's contents on the floor. The other three bottles were pretty much the same, although I managed to open them more carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is - what can I do to avoid this in the future? This is the first thing I've &quot;brewed&quot; - is there some equipment specifically to address this problem? Some jug with a pressure valve? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does releasing the built up pressure in a bottle harm the carbonation of the beer? I know opening a bottle of coke will make it go flat, eventually. How is it different for ginger beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17383" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T09:43:23.413" Title="Brewing ginger beer and over carbonation" Tags="|ginger-beer|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24278" CreationDate="2019-06-21T11:42:02.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting product.  Its designed to really strip out 90+% of the yeast from a distillers wash solution.  Seems like that might be pretty drastic if you planned to bottle condition.  It might take longer than normal to carbonate if its really as good as it reports to be for removing yeast.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I think just good brewing practices and cold storage is fine for clarification.  A little gelatin solution in the fermentor, cold for a few days before bottling might be a better approach that Turbo Clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to potentially have to sacrifice the batch I'd love to see someone try it and then report back the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T11:42:02.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5946" CreationDate="2019-06-21T12:25:45.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a &lt;strong&gt;small hairdryer&lt;/strong&gt; which is connected to my STC-1000 which can switch on a heater as well as a cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked into this same question sometime ago when one winter the temperature in my fermentation chamber became too cold and fermentation slowed to a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fermentation chamber is a chest freezer, which the STC will switch on (to cool) in summer. When winter came I had trouble with the temp going too low, so I did quite a bit of reading on the various solutions (some of which are totally over the top and expensive in my opinion). Eventually I settled on a small hairdryer which was cheap and easy to use and connect to the STC. The hair dryer works well because it's many short bursts of heat over a long time. And not like other solutions constant heat that carries on heating well after the unit has switched it off and also tends to unequally heat the chamber. I.e. Favors one side of the vessel over another. After two days I took internal temp readings of the wort and it was exactly what they needed to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually found that the air dryer kept a better constant temperature (after it had a chance to heat the vessel for a day or two) than any other unit tried. It's gradual heating of the unit also meant there was no shock to the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T12:25:45.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24283" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-21T20:21:24.223" Score="3" ViewCount="2278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed at least a couple hundred 5-gallon batches of ale over the last 20+ years. For the vast majority of these batches, I have kegged in corny kegs and force carbonated using 30 PSI and shaking for a few minutes, or more often in the last 10 years, by setting the regulator at ~12 PSI for a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the last 3-4 years, I have been bottling more batches for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is easier to send home with friends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can have more variety (not restricted to the two kegs that fit in the beer fridge). I served 7 different styles in bottles at last year's New Years Day open house.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can vary the carbonation of each batch more easily (to match properly match the style). This is an issue when I serve from kegs because I have one regulator and therefore one pressure setting for my two kegs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have to run down to the basement (where the beer fridge lives) every time I want another beer; instead, I can have a few bottles in the kitchen fridge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When bottling, I use 22-ounce bomber bottles. I prime a 5 gallon batch with, usually, 3.0-3.5 ounces (depending on style) of dextrose (boiled in a small volume of water, well-mixed with the beer in the bottling bucket). I fill the bottles with a half-inch diameter, spring-tipped bottling wand, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/collections/bottle-filling/products/1-2-bottle-filler-15-length&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. I fill the bottle until it is completely full or overflows just a little. When the filler is withdrawn, it leaves the perfect amount of head space in the bottle. In other words, the volume of the bottling wand up to the height of the bottle is a good match for the desired head space. I let the bottles carbonate for at least 7-10 days at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired a &lt;a href=&quot;https://oktoberdesign.com/shop/can-seamers/sl1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;can seamer&lt;/a&gt; and 16-ounce cans (type 211 with 202 lids).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I adjust the amount of priming sugar for 16-ounce cans vs. what works for me with 22-ounce bottles in order to achieve the same level of carbonation in the glass?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I adjust how I decide that the package is full when filling a can? In other words, does the cross-section of the filling wand times the height of a 16-ounce can create the right head space volume in the can?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3003" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T14:18:42.743" Title="Beer Bottle vs. Can Head Space, Carbonation, and Conditioning" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|priming|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24280" CreationDate="2019-06-22T07:56:34.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me your ginger beer is still fermenting inside the bottle. When this happens, it creates more co2 and creates more pressure inside your bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps when you add your ginger bug into the bottle, yeast is activated and starts/continue to carbonate more, hence the pressure build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does releasing the built up pressure in a bottle harm the carbonation&#xA;  of the beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your beer is still fermenting, then no. Once you release the carbonation pressure, and close the lid back, your beer will continue to ferment and carbonate and pressure will build up again. If it continue to ferment too short, then you'll get less carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your beer has finished carbonating, and you open the lid, then when you close it, you'll have all the carbonation gone. There should still be carbonation in your beer, so test it if it's enough for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe open the lid after 12 hrs, and test for carbonation when you're ready to drink. If carbonation is good, keep it, if it's too much, then open after 16 hrs etc. If carbonation is too less, then open lid after 6 hrs, and keep decreasing it until you find the right amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is the first thing I've &quot;brewed&quot; - is there some equipment&#xA;  specifically to address this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried putting your ginger bug inside your keg and let it ferment a bit there? Then bottle it as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or put less ginger bug in? Test with half, and see if it fixes your problem. Test if the flavour is enough for you though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know opening a bottle of coke will make it go flat, eventually. How&#xA;  is it different for ginger beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opening a bottle of coke, makes it go flat because your cap is not air tight. If it was air tight, it will hold the carbonation. There's no difference to ginger beer, all is the same, and has to do with fermentation and carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16070" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T07:56:34.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24287" CreationDate="2019-06-22T11:06:21.467" Score="5" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost a year ago I made a saison batch that got contaminated, I stored it out of sight(without emptying them) and forgot about it.&#xA;Suppose I empty the bottle now, wash them good and sanitize them with starsan.&#xA;Can I use them again or should I throw them away? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T12:53:27.963" Title="Is it OK to bottle condition using previously contaminated bottles?" Tags="|bottling|sanitation|bottles|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24285" CreationDate="2019-06-22T11:34:20.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not only use Starsan. Use water with a bit of bleach added, soak them and clean them, then rinse with a metabisulfite solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not have any contaminated batches, but in the second half of 2017 I had beers with gushers. I noticed that the chlorine-based cleaning solution I used had gotten old and actually did not contain any chlorine any more. After starting to clean my bottles with a solution of 15 mL chlorine to 6L of water, I got rid of gushing beers in subsequent brews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works very well. I had a bottle from West-Vleteren 12 which apparently was not completely clean, containing left over deposits which did not solve easily in water, but the beer inside was drinkable and it did not gush (but it did taste a little bit off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T11:34:20.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24285" CreationDate="2019-06-22T13:07:26.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bottles are very contaminated say with sediment sticking and or even if they have been open for a while and have fungal growth inside. You still don’t need to throw away, do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once emptied, wash the bottles with soap and a good bottle brush. Rinse well. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now boil water, add a teaspoon of bleach to the bottle and add the boiling water. Leave for a day. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After it’s stood and cool - use a bottle brush again and give it a good scrub with the liquid still inside. Then throw out and rinse. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have very clean bottles now, so you can start your normal sanitation (no-rinse) process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used this with very soiled bottles - and I’ve never had a problem or contaminated any new batch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case where it’s contaminated but not open with new growth - you won’t have any problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastEditorUserId="16485" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T14:22:57.877" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T14:22:57.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24149" CreationDate="2019-06-23T06:51:10.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bubbles happens when your yeast is eating the sugar, and that creates the co2 (the bubbles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feeding bigger quantities = more food for yeast. But yeast can only work so much, you can't make it work faster, but you can make it work all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feeding daily, I would assume would be the same as feeding all at once. All you're doing is making sure your yeast has food all the time to continue to work. If you do this in a big hit, it just means it will have a lot more food to work on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't speed up yeast working, but you can make it work all the time, and not rest. When you feed it all at once, you're just making yeast work 24/7, instead of doing it daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16070" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T06:51:10.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-23T22:29:24.107" Score="3" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did my first kegged beer last week, I put the beer in and turned the co2 to about 35 and purged the tank about 5 times. I then shook the beer on the co2 for 3 minutes and then turned off the co2 tank and disconnected the line. I let it sit for an hour, then put it on serving pressure (10-12psi) and let it sit for a day. To my surprise the beer came out entirely foam, but the beer was not carbonated. It is now half a week later and it is still coming out all foam and no carbonation. Has anyone seen this or know what happened and any advice on fixing the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16913" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T18:34:24.427" Title="Carbonation in keg" Tags="|beer|carbonation|equipment|techniques|kegging|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24290" CreationDate="2019-06-23T22:58:33.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend searching more widely for this information. This is a pretty common issue for first time keggers, and the solutions are widely published. The usual advice is to not do the shake method, especially if you're new to the kegging game, but instead to fill, purge, then leave at serving pressure for 5-10 days. This is a foolproof method. Once you're happy that your system functions properly, you can experiment with other carbonation methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T22:58:33.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24285" CreationDate="2019-06-23T23:04:01.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would actually recommend different chemicals than the others. If you want to be really sure, and have gloves and goggles, I would recommend hot caustic to clean the crud out of the bottles. This is pretty foolproof, but a bit dangerous, so only take this path if you're confident in your safety procedures. The next best bet would be to use a percarbonate cleaner, like napisan, PBW, or similar. This works about as well as caustic, if a little slower, but is much much safer. Make sure you clean the inside AND the outside of the bottles, then after rinsing, inspect against the light. If you see any dirt, wash again (you wash the outside so that you know if there's dirt inside). After washing, sanitise as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I would also recommend avoiding soap. Any soap residue will kill head, and it's less effective than caustic/PBW anyway.&#xA;I would personally avoid chlorine based compounds, any poor rinsing will leave unpleasant residues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastEditorUserId="16544" LastEditDate="2019-06-24T22:58:17.303" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T22:58:17.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24303" CreationDate="2019-06-24T09:53:07.807" Score="5" ViewCount="3326" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the &lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.kegerator.com/guide-to-lagering/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;kegerator website&lt;/a&gt;, I found this method to make a &quot;cheat lager&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To brew a great “hybrid” lager, I’d recommend using one of the&#xA;  following yeast strains: White Labs WLP001, Wyeast 1056 or SafAle&#xA;  US-05. It’s also important to ferment as cool as you can within the&#xA;  range of the yeast you choose. However, don’t get too cold, as you’ll&#xA;  drop your yeast out of suspension and stall your fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once the fermentation is complete, rack or bottle it and then&#xA;  refrigerate it. It will continue to “lager” in its packaging,&#xA;  mellowing out some of the flavors. If done well, the average beer&#xA;  drinker will not be able to tell the difference between this beer and&#xA;  a proper lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound reasonable? It's certainly much easier than a standard lager method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17400" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T14:23:55.337" Title="Can I make a &quot;lager&quot; with ale yeast?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|lager|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24293" CreationDate="2019-06-24T12:35:54.220" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make great tasting beer with any method that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you ferment California Ale yeast at low temps and make great tasting beer? Yes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can you not make a lager and call it a lager? Thats up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But can you make spaghetti and meatballs with ziti?  No.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If it tasted great I'd still ask for more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's homebrewing you get to do whatever you want.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T12:35:54.220" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24293" CreationDate="2019-06-24T16:20:39.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically, a lager should be called a &quot;lager&quot; if it's made from lager yeast and lagered like traditional methods. In reality, you can use Safale US-05 at cool temperatures and extended cold aging and 95% of people wouldn't be able to tell the difference between a traditional lager and an ale fermented at cool temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just call it whatever you want because that's what I see at many local breweries around me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T16:20:39.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24293" CreationDate="2019-06-25T03:56:09.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't find WLP001, Wyeast 1056 or SafAle US-05 to be as clean and lager-like as many people claim.  They give a slight peach and/or circus peanut ester even at cold temperatures.  Instead I would recommend Wyeast 1007, 2565, or WLP029 altbier or Kolsch-style yeasts for extremely clean lager-like ales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T03:56:09.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23865" CreationDate="2019-06-25T04:35:24.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a can brewer, I actually have the wife nagging me to make a honey beer now that she's tasted it.  I find the most important ingredient to get right is, unsurprisingly, the honey.  Especially important is how strongly the honey is flavored.  Stronger flavored honey punches through all the other tastes in the beer and makes it obvious what you're drinking (rather than having people taste your beer and search around for a honey taste, it's simply self evident).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tasmanian Leatherwood (all 500g) is the golden ticket for my brews, then it's just:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 can Morgan's Golden Sheaf Wheat Beer &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 can Cooper's Malt Extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;150g Cracked Wheat Grain &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12g Morgan's Cluster Finishing Hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Morgan's Wheat Beer Yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steep the grain for 15 mins in boiling water, add that and all fermentables and hops to the fermenter for a 22 liter brew and ferment according to instructions on the yeast pack.  Carbonate as per your standard processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16546" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T04:35:24.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24293" CreationDate="2019-06-25T06:25:17.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If possible on your rig, you could ferment under a bit of pressure. Increased pressure can inhibit ester formation to some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T06:25:17.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24283" CreationDate="2019-06-25T08:48:25.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried bottling AFTER you have it carbonated from the keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I adjust the amount of priming sugar for 16-ounce cans vs. what works for me with 22-ounce bottles in order to achieve the same level of carbonation in the glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;16 / 22 = 73%. 100 - 73 = 27%. You can test and decrease your priming sugar by 25% and see if that's enough carbonation for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I adjust how I decide that the package is full when filling a can? In other words, does the cross-section of the filling wand times the height of a 16-ounce can create the right head space volume in the can?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you can fill it all the way to the top. You'll get some head so stop there. When you put the lid on, it'll squeeze some head out. Remember not to overfill it or you'll waste beer. You don't want to underfill it either because you'll waste space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once canned, the head will decrease and you'll have less than an inch in the top of the can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's all about testing and see what works for you. Some beers you'll want more carbonation, while others less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16070" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T08:48:25.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24293" CreationDate="2019-06-25T18:06:21.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;to lager&quot; is a process, cold storage conditioning for extended time, usually uncarbed and bulk storage... but the key is cold conditioning to get the effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to make a lager, you use lager yeast....but its a homebrew, we can call it whatever we want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TO fully answer your question, Yes you can lager ale, you can lager beer made with any yeast you want, because you are cold conditioning it to make a crisp clear beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one thing to be aware of is, if you bulk lager, and then bottle carbonate...you may need to add extra yeast or give it extra time to carbonate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11944" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T18:06:21.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24293" CreationDate="2019-06-26T00:15:02.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you call your beer a lager and it's fermented with ale yeast, I firmly believe that it's a blatant lie. In a homebrew setting, who cares, if you're the only one drinking it? As a brewery owner and brewer, I've had many conversations with other owner/brewers that agree. We had a local brewery making nothing but &quot;German Lager&quot; beer and come to find out every thing they made was fermented with US-05. They are were the laugh of the town for a while until they made some changes. My two cents, if you slap a label on a beer that says &quot;lager&quot; and you fermented with an Ale Yeast, you're lying and it's ugly. They are essentially different species of yeast. Saccharomyces pastorianus (or S. carlsbergensis) is your lager strains and Saccharomyces cerevisiae for your ales. It's the same faux pas some make (even more often) by calling their beer a Kolsch and not fermenting with a Kolsch strain and instead using US-05 or something; and if you want to get real technical, should be brewed in Koln, Germany (Americans use the name &quot;Kolsch Style&quot; if they are respectable). Is it a hefeweizen if you ferment with US-05? No. It's only a hefeweizen if brewed with a hefe strain. To sum up, use the right yeast and call your beer what it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3353" LastEditorUserId="3353" LastEditDate="2019-06-26T01:07:03.920" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T01:07:03.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24293" CreationDate="2019-06-26T08:17:54.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the purist, a lager should be brewed with a S. Pastorianus strain of yeast and an ale with S. Cerevisiae strain of yeast. The former (&quot;lager yeast&quot;) works at far lower temperatures than the latter &quot;ale yeast&quot;) does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the first lagers (in Bohemia in the 1500's or so) were brewed with whatever yeast happened to end up in the beer. Nobody knew what yeast was in those days, or even that it existed. The term &quot;lager&quot; (as has already been mentioned in responses above) refers to the German word for &quot;storage&quot; (Lagerung) and stems from the fact that this beer style was brewed seasonally, then packaged in sturdy wooden barrels that were stored deep in the cool caves occurring in the region for months on end. During this lengthy maturation the beer fermented out further, cleared, and became somewhat carbonated, which eventually led to beer (esp. later) as we know it today. Until then, beers were brown, murky, flat concoctions served at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While using an ale yeast for a later is a vile abomination to the purist, the truth is that quite a significant portion of the micro-brewed beers in the world sold as lagers are in fact fermented  with S. Cerevisiae, but using a variety suitable for lower temperatures, in order to obtain a more neutral and &quot;cleaner&quot; flavor profile. Lallemand's Nottingham Ale Yeast (no rebranded to High Performance Ale Yeast) is a good example: at room temperature it's a typical ale yeast giving you a measure of fruity flavors that work well in ales, but at the lowest end it of its wide temperature range (about 10C / 50F or even little lower) and a proper diacetyl rest, it will produce a beer with a flavor profile generally indistinguishable from lagers fermented with a &quot;real&quot; lager yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the only real question, as I see it, is whether you want a beer that tastes, smells, looks and drinks like a lager and has all the vital characteristics or a lager, or instead you want to make a big think about the pedigree of the yeast you used to brew it. Your choice. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T08:17:54.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24290" CreationDate="2019-06-26T08:21:54.737" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also note that the tap plays a large role in foam production. A proper beer tap has a conical channel, so as to gradually decrease the pressure under which the beer finds itself, and no sharp edges that could turbulate the beer and provide nucleation sites. Using inexpensive plastic taps or valves intended for fruit juices and the like will give you nothing but foam no matter what you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T08:21:54.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24290" CreationDate="2019-06-26T09:06:26.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several reasons it could be foaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you let it sit for an hour at 35 PSI then changed it to 10-12 PSI. If you didn't purge the keg of CO2 between that, then what was inside the keg was still 35 PSI and thus the beer was carbed to that level. Hence, foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length of beer line can affect foaming. A minimum length of 5m (16ft) is suggested for beer lines to prevent foaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature of the kegerator/beer will also be a large factor. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this table&lt;/a&gt; for help on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When pouring the beer make sure you open the tap fully and quickly. Holding it half open will cause lots of foaming to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might take a little bit longer but the slow forced carbonation method of letting it just sit at serving pressure for 5-7 days is far better and less prone to error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T09:06:26.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-26T10:38:51.623" Score="2" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I thoroughly clean my nylon hop bags after each boil they have become non-porous. I’ve tried boiling with no improvement to porosity. Any suggestions for getting them porous again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17404" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T11:50:33.923" Title="How do I get my nylon hop bags clean and porous again?" Tags="|hops|boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24306" CreationDate="2019-06-26T11:50:33.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Throw your tight mesh bags away and find some with a mesh that is more open.  I use a coarser mesh bag intended for adding fruit for winemaking.  Lets a little more particulate through but always Works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T11:50:33.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24324" CreationDate="2019-06-26T15:01:26.737" Score="6" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &quot;How to Brew&quot; by John Palmer (4th ed.), cold conditioning (a.k.a. lagering) is the act of cooling beer after fermentation has completed (including maturation) in order to clarify the beer. So far so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The book also suggests to slowly decrease the temperature (down to 1 °C/day!) to avoid thermal shock on the yeast:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The point of slow cooling is to prevent thermal shock of the yeast and subsequent excretion of fatty acids and other lipids. These lipids can interfere with head retention and will readily oxidize, creating stale flavors. Thermal shock at any time can cause the yeast cells to release protein signals that cause other yeast cells to shut down to protect against the cold, potentially leading to premature flocculation and underattenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, everyone seems to cold crash, and I did not find other sources supporting this claim. Is there any evidence? Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also not sure whether this would also be relevant for pitching temperature since, for instance, the rehydration temperature for dry yeast is usually higher than fermentation temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... last but not least, such method definitely makes the overall process 1-2 weeks longer, which is pretty annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16930" LastEditorUserId="16930" LastEditDate="2019-07-04T13:20:30.923" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T10:13:45.880" Title="Does cold crashing have a negative impact?" Tags="|yeast|beer|conditioning|cold-crash|cold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24308" CreationDate="2019-06-26T23:10:22.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never noticed a problem with cold crashing. In reality, it takes a while for the temperature to drop anyway (albeit not 1*C per day). If you are hoping to harvest the yeast, shocking them unduly could cause you issues, but otherwise, I would say crash away. If, in the future, you come across an issue that could be explained by insufficient yeast during lagering, and you've ruled everything else out, try using the slow approach to see if it fixes the problem. Otherwise, you should be right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T23:10:22.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24315" CreationDate="2019-06-27T00:48:50.823" Score="2" ViewCount="5497" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does chlorine in tap water kill yeast? Does chloramine kill yeast? Specifically Lalvin 71B wine yeast? Is it OK to use filtered tap water (Culligan filter) to re-hydrate yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17375" LastEditorUserId="17375" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T02:11:47.687" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T08:57:37.010" Title="Does chlorine kill yeast?" Tags="|yeast|mead|water|water-filtration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24318" CreationDate="2019-06-27T03:23:38.673" Score="2" ViewCount="3424" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you use bentonite and Sparkaloid to clarify at the same time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can they be used in the primary fermentation bucket or must they be used after racking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long does each require to work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17375" LastEditorUserId="17375" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T03:29:41.373" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T04:26:09.660" Title="Can you use bentonite and Sparkaloid at the same time?" Tags="|mead|clarity|clarification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24283" CreationDate="2019-06-27T14:18:42.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some headspace is required, so there is some compressible gas to deal with volume changes in the beer due to temperature fluctuations (the liquid beer is relatively uncompressible).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much headspace has some potential drawbacks: wasted space, potentially too much oxygen (which in theory could damage the beer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The exact amount of headspace (above the minimum required) does not affect the final level of carbonation that is achieved (although it may affect the rate of carbonation).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specific Answers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No change in priming rate is required due to headspace differences that may occur in bottles vs. cans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The exact amount of headspace is not a factor with regard to final carbonation levels. Using the filler volume as the amount of headspace in both bottles and cans seems reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Details&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.picobrewery.com/askarchive/headspace.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;picobrewery.com has this to say about headspace&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some brewers claim that proper carbonation will not occur without some&#xA;headspace, and will overcarbonate with excess headspace. As it turns&#xA;out, it is not true; it violates the concept of equilibrium&#xA;thermodynamics. The Homebrew Digest back in 1996 describes some&#xA;experiments run by Steve Alexander and Al Korzonas that prove this&#xA;out. Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/1938.html#1938-17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/1938.html#1938-17&lt;/a&gt; for&#xA;example. As long as the beer still has some viable yeast, carbonation&#xA;depends mainly on the amount of priming sugar, not on the headspace.&#xA;Bottles with extra headspace will reach full carbonation faster,&#xA;however. This is because the extra oxygen in the headspace allows the&#xA;yeast a brief reproductive phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite these fairly well run experiments, people expect quite a bit&#xA;of headspace. This is particularly evident in competitions, where up&#xA;to 1½ inches is commonly allowed. In part, this may be due to the fact&#xA;that most of the bottle fillers on the market leave extra room when&#xA;they are pulled out of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, 1½ inches is way too much. Generally, good brewing&#xA;practice calls for minimizing oxygenation during bottling, so you&#xA;ought to keep the fill level high. . Any oxygen not consumed by the&#xA;yeast will go into unwanted oxidation processes. These can degrade the&#xA;malt flavor, resulting in a cardboard-like flavor, and can degrade hop&#xA;aroma. The greatest risk in underfilling bottles is the risk of&#xA;developing acetaldehyde. Acetaldehyde is the result of direct&#xA;oxidation of ethanol, and has a foul solvent-like aroma and flavor&#xA;that can make an otherwise good beer undrinkable. Acetaldehyde will&#xA;invariably form if the fill level is below the shoulder of the bottle.&#xA;Another risk of underfilling relates to bottle detonation. If the beer&#xA;is incompletely fermented or overprimed, the bottles are much more&#xA;prone to dangerous fragmentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your filler leaves too much headspace, you ought to top it up&#xA;before capping. Another trick is to leave the caps loose for half an&#xA;hour or so. As CO2 escapes from the beer it will tend to flush oxygen&#xA;out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, should you fill the bottle all the way up to the brim? No, since&#xA;beer expands when allowed to warm up. Expanding beer creates&#xA;unimaginable pressure (far more than overpriming) that will either&#xA;break bottles, or at least will cause leakage out of the cap. The&#xA;amount of expansion will depend on how stable you keep your storage&#xA;temperature. Don't forget to add a bit for unexpected heat, such as&#xA;leaving beer in your car, for example. I had one nasty experience&#xA;where a bottle burst all over the floor of my car. Wow, what a stink!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally fill my bottles quite high. However, I've often gotten&#xA;comments about high fills in competition even if I've left a half an&#xA;inch. Thermal expansion requires about 1/8&amp;quot; (1/4&amp;quot; for 22 oz bottles)&#xA;so I try to keep the fill between ¼&amp;quot; and ½&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of the relevant passages from &lt;a href=&quot;http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/1938.html#1938-17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the experiment&lt;/a&gt; mentioned above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dave Miller's books suggest that bottle fermentation of priming sugars&#xA;is a quick process taking several days, but that much more time is&#xA;required to get the CO2 produced into solution thus carbonating the&#xA;beverage. I speculated that Miller was probably right, and that the&#xA;amount of space at the top of a bottle, the head space, should effect&#xA;the rate at which CO2 equilibrium is reached.  Several people posted&#xA;that this was unlikely since, from their experience, bottles opened&#xA;early have neither excessive gas pressure nor adequate carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My conclusion is that the underfilled bottle clearly completed bottle&#xA;fermentation and cleared more quickly than either the normal or&#xA;overfilled bottles.  The overfilled bottles took longer than normal&#xA;(and aren't finished yet!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that the normally filled bottles did not complete&#xA;fermentation nearly as quickly as the bottle with fermentation lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason the priming fermentation itself takes longer when&#xA;capped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One explanation of the increased rate of priming fermentation with&#xA;increasing headspace is that more oxygen is included in the headspace&#xA;which it turn effects the fermentation rate.  This argument requires&#xA;that someone explain why the normal fill bottle take so much longer to&#xA;ferment than one with a fermentation lock attached. Since the amount&#xA;of headspace isn't vastly different and  obviously most of the oxygen&#xA;in the headspace is expelled thru the fermentation lock.  Perhaps&#xA;significant oxygen passes backward thru the fermentation lock !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other explanation is that the normal fill bottle has higher&#xA;average pressure throughout the priming fermentation than an&#xA;underfilled bottle and that the pressure &lt;em&gt;SOMEHOW&lt;/em&gt; reduces the&#xA;activity of the yeast.  Osmotic pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Thoughts on Oxygen&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is based on my personal reasoning and observations; is not based on any measurement of oxygen or oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my mind, one of the benefits of bottle/can conditioning is that the process should remove all oxygen from the beer within a week or so. When active yeast has oxygen available, the oxygen is consumed. This means that any oxygen that is either dissolved in the beer during racking/priming/filling or present in the headspace of the packaged beer will be consumed as the priming sugar is eaten by the yeast to produce the desired carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal experience has been that I do not observe any of the symptoms of excess oxygen and the resulting oxidation in any of my bottle-conditioned beers, even if they have been stored for many months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T14:18:42.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24310" CreationDate="2019-06-27T17:05:56.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and Yes. Chlorine and Chloramine are both used to sanitize. Killing bacteria, fungi, and yeast is why they are added to water supplies. They kill the things that make you sick...and things that make you happy. There is no discrimination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allowing your water to sit overnight or by filtering it (with filters that say they get Chlorine out) usually will get the job done for Chlorine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chloramine is a bit tougher. For it you need an activated-charcoal filter or use Campden tablets (potassium metabisulfite). I typically just use a Campden tablet. They are available in your local HBS and are not very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only used tablets. Typically I use 1 tablet for 20 gals of water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/17286/recommended-dose-of-campden-tablets-to-remove-chloramine&quot;&gt;Recommended dose of Campden Tablets to remove chloramine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information on getting rid of Chlorine and Chloramine see:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/3447/what-are-the-various-ways-to-remove-chlorine-chloramine-from-tap-water&quot;&gt;What are the various ways to remove chlorine/chloramine from tap water?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13721" LastEditorUserId="13721" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T20:25:04.410" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T20:25:04.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24290" CreationDate="2019-06-27T19:51:57.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve learned that the best idea is to put yourself through the extra 5-7 days and carbonate it on serving pressure. Thanks for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16913" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T19:51:57.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23074" CreationDate="2019-06-28T01:36:49.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though I liked the idea of swing-top bottles, I have found that they don't seem as effective and my friend's crown sealers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But having invested in swing tops, here are ways I've found to help with carbonation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replace the seals -&lt;/strong&gt; specifically with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s?k=grolsch%20gaskets%20full%20cover&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;full covers&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; the o-ring seals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't over fill bottles&lt;/strong&gt; - leave a good thumb's length of air gap - gas compresses better with more gas space.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Store full bottles inverted or lay weights on top of them (e.g. books)-&lt;/strong&gt; the extra weight helps seal a bit tighter through the combination of weight and liquid around the inside of the seal (if you invert, you'll also know which bottles have serious seal issues by seeing the presence of beer/bubbles on the outside of the bottle).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carbonate slightly more&lt;/strong&gt; - I carbonate with table sugar so give each 750ml bottle about 2-4 grams extra.  The good news about swing tops is the glass is often thicker and the bottles can take quite a bit more pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Store empties unsealed&lt;/strong&gt; - helps relax both the swing top mechanism and seal for more effective use later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16546" LastEditorUserId="16546" LastEditDate="2019-10-15T04:01:26.970" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T04:01:26.970" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24311" CreationDate="2019-06-29T04:26:09.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can you use bentonite and Sparkolloid to clarify at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bentonite first (if you aren't using pectinase) followed a week later by Sparkolloid. You would use one after the other in the same container but not both at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can they be used in the primary fermentation bucket or must they be used after racking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be used in the primary bucket but &lt;a href=&quot;https://georgiamead.com/blog/clearing-cloudy-mead/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;after fermentation&lt;/a&gt; is complete. Depending on the recipe (and assuming it follows sound practices) you may be racking to a second container and continuing fermentation there (in which case you wouldn't add clairifiers in the primary bucket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will always be a final racking after using clairifiers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on aging your mead or wine and doing multiple rackings you can avoid the use of clairification agents. Mead should be aged for at least 6 months but &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=4944.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some people&lt;/a&gt; age their mead for years. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=1990.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Purists&lt;/a&gt; avoid filtering and clairification, have the patience to wait, and have a prior batch to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use bentonite first to remove the bulk of the proteins and then use Sparkolloid to remove the last of the haze. Bentonite has a negative charge and uses electrostatic attraction and hydrogen bonding. Sparkolloid has a positive static charge which allows it to drag negatively charged particles to the bottom. Sparkolloid won't compact your finnings as well as bentonite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use pectic enzyme (&lt;a href=&quot;https://winemakermag.com/article/using-pectic-enzymes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pectinase&lt;/a&gt;) in meads that will be high in pectin (containing pears, citrus fruits, cranberries, currants, gooseberries, sour plums, and tart apples, or vegetables such as carrots, potatoes, and parsnips etc.). It is especially important to use it with peaches or apricots as they turn to mush and tend to cloud more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because enzymes are proteins, they react with bentonite. For this reason, you should wait at least 24 hours after adding pectic enzymes before adding bentonite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, pectinases should be added in temperatures of at least 80 °F (27 °C) to be most effective. It can be added at lower temperatures, but this will slow the time it takes to react. Temperatures too warm or too cold can inhibit enzymatic activity, as can too high of an alcohol content. It's best to add it during the crushing stage, prior to fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ECKraus: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.eckraus.com/when-to-add-sparkolloid-to-wine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sparkolloid: When Do You Add It To Wine?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;HomeBrewTalk Forum: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/bentonite.14994/#post-145500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wine Making Forum: Bentonite&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bentonite: Your wine will usually clear in 6 to 12 hours, however it is best to wait several days before bottling the wine to make sure all suspended particles have settled. Once the wine has cleared, siphon it off the sediment into a clean container. A product such as Bentolac S (soluble casein and bentonite) requires a full week for settling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ECKraus: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://eckraus.com/speedy-bentonite/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Speedy Bentonite&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scott Laboratories: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://scottlab.com/fermentation-cellar/fining-stability/bentolact-s-bentolact&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bentolac S&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sparkolloid: Let it set for 2 to 4 weeks, or until it has cleared. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ECKraus: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://eckraus.com/hot-mix-sparkolloid/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hot Mix Sparkolloid&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17222" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T04:26:09.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="404" CreationDate="2019-07-01T17:22:45.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;StarSan along with many of the other no rinse / food safe sanitizers are primarily just acid solutions. Of which the largest proportion is Phosphoric Acid, with some other stabilizers and minor acids depending on the make. &#xA;These won’t naturally decay in any medium time frame and as long as it stays acidic I.e its pH is maintained in the acidic range &amp;lt; 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will affect it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The factor at which you dilute it, if you add too much water it looses its acidity and will not be effective. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What you dilute it with, if the water in your area is highly alkaline (brak) then you have the potential to, even at normal dilution rates to cause the solution to no longer be acidic, meaning it’s ineffective. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Case in point. It will stay as potent as the day you made it given (1) and (2) and no other outside dilution takes place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T17:22:45.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="404" CreationDate="2019-07-03T08:47:11.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As opposed to Perisan, Starsan contains no peroxide component. This gives it a much longer shelf life. Keep it in an airtight container in a dark cupboard and it will probably last indefinitely. As the manual says, when in doubt check the pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T08:47:11.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24310" CreationDate="2019-07-03T08:57:37.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chlorine and chloramine both kill microbes including yeast. Bleach is used as a disinfectant after all. But the key is chlorine concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bleach, for example. will kill microbes (including yeast) in two or three minutes. Tap water is chlorinated to a level where the chlorine and chloramine can take care of any remaining microbes while the tap water sits in the pipes (typically for several days before it reaches your home). The lower chlorine levels make it safe to drink, as opposed to bleach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So chlorinated tap water won't kill your yeast. Higher levels of chlorine compounds will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much bigger problem with chlorinated tap tap water is that the chlorine will have a bad effect on the flavor of your beer by creating a compound known as TCP (trichlorophenol) during fermentation. This gives the beer an antiseptic, hospital-gauze like flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heavily chlorinated tap water should be carbon-filtered, treated with Campden tablets (sodium metabisulphite) or boiled and then cooled overnight to remove the chlorine compounds in order to avoid off-flavours in the beer. Your yeast, however, will not be in jeopardy if you don't do this, just the beer flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T08:57:37.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22394" CreationDate="2019-07-03T09:04:06.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The proper agent to stop fermentation in wine is potassium sorbate. This does not kill the yeast, but renders it sterile by blocking its ability to reproduce. Sulphites (typically sodium metabisulphite in the form of Campden tablets) don't kill yeast either but act as an oxygen scavenger to stabilize the wine by preventing oxidation. Ascorbic acid (a.k.a. vitamin C) does the same, using a different mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically the process used is something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add ascorbic acid to inactivate the yeast;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add bentonite sludge to settle the yeast and other solids out of suspension;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stabilize the wine with sulphites and/or ascorbic acid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T09:04:06.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24308" CreationDate="2019-07-03T12:49:24.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I send an email to John Palmer, he has been kind enough to answer. I guess it is ok to post it here, so here it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's best practice. Lots of breweries cold crash, and they lose head retention as a result.  Thermal shock is most prevalent on cooling, not heating, although it can occur then too. But the difference of 10-20F at pitching doesn't have the mass effect as 30-40F after fermentation when you have 4X as much yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Celsius side of the world, a difference of 10-20 °F amounts to 6-11 °C, while a difference of 30-40 °F is 17-22 °C (I did some rounding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16930" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T10:13:45.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24326" CreationDate="2019-07-03T21:16:01.763" Score="3" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting inconsistent specific gravity readings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6-25: 1.116 @ 74.3F (after pitching yeast)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6-26: 1.120 @ 71.2F, pH 4.25&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7-1:  1.111 @ 70.2F, pH 4.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7-3:  1.122 @ 70.9F, pH 3.75&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a spigot and I thought the honey might have settled to the bottom when I poured a sample, but I stirred the bucket and it came out the same (1.122). The fruit has floated to the top. It sank when first put in. There are bubbles coming up in the bucket when I look directly at the surface, and in the hydrometer tube. On 7-1 the airlock stopped bubbling. I added a teaspoon each of calcium carbonate (to increase pH) and Fermax (to feed yeast) and stirred. I believe the inactive airlock was due to a leak around a rubber grommet. I poured a bit of water on all the grommets and the airlock started bubbling again. Why am I getting increasing specific gravity readings? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17375" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T11:18:39.497" Title="Inconsistent specific gravity readings" Tags="|mead|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24325" CreationDate="2019-07-04T11:18:39.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon dioxide will throw off your gravity readings.  There has to be basically zero CO2 when you take a reading.  Otherwise it will tend to increase the reading.  This is likely part of the reason why your first reading is low while the others tend to be a bit higher.  Stir your sample for several minutes to get as much CO2 out of solution as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it may take time for sugars to come out of the fruit that you have added.  This would increase the reading as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then with fermentation happening at the same time, there is somewhat of a tug-of-war going on with increases vs. decreases in specific gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For utmost accuracy, it is important to calibrate your hydrometer in fresh cool 60 F water every time you use it.  Bumping the hydrometer in any way can affect the readings by a point or two... more than people might think.  Mine seems to fluctuate by a point or two every time I calibrate.  Even twice in the same day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I would highly recommend to just leave your fermentation alone.  There is no reason to check gravity so often.  Just leave it alone now for a month or two.  Frequent measurement is just asking for off-flavors to come in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T11:18:39.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24328" CreationDate="2019-07-04T17:38:18.007" Score="1" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an IPA that I've brewed in five gallon batches before. OG at 1.065 and FG at 1.010. Those were hydrometer readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I scaled it down for a one gallon batch, and pitched half a packet of yeast (Safale US-05) instead of a full packet. My OG was 1.060 using a refractometer, but my FG is reading 1.041 after 2.5 weeks of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is something throwing the refractometer off? I haven't had this issue before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I under-pitched? But half a packet of yeast for a one gallon should be plenty, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13998" LastEditorUserId="13998" LastEditDate="2019-07-04T19:31:39.327" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T23:45:27.883" Title="Final gravity too high" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|original-gravity|final-gravity|refractometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24327" CreationDate="2019-07-04T23:45:27.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're measuring FG with a refrac, you need to compensate for alcohol. Alcohol in solution will increase the apparent gravity in a refrac. For this exact reason, I never measure gravity with a refrac after I've pitched yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T23:45:27.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24330" CreationDate="2019-07-05T14:51:54.750" Score="11" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently found that some alcohol free beers such as German hefeweissbiers like Weihenstephaner Hefeweisbier Alkoholfrei, and BrewDog Nanny State taste pretty ok, actually. I have also found that some other alcohol free beers are heavily unbalanced and are practically undrinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the only drawback of these alcohol-free beers is that they cost quite a lot; the cost with taxes is the same as the cost of beer with 5% ABV, and the taxes where I live are high for alcoholic drinks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are the good tasting alcohol free beers manufactured? Is the alcohol in the beer somehow removed in an industrial process, or do they just use less malt so that the alcohol concentration remains below 0.5%?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can one reasonably make alcohol-free beer that tastes good at home? Where I live, distilling high-alcohol-content drinks is illegal, and if the process to make an alcohol-free beer is to just distill the alcohol away, it might be pretty risky to own the equipment for that... (Well, ok, if the purpose is to just get rid of the alcohol, you don't need all of the distilling equipment, simply boiling it at a controlled temperature would work.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13694" LastEditorUserId="13694" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T15:08:46.160" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T13:01:05.670" Title="How is alcohol-free beer manufactured? Can one make it at home?" Tags="|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24329" CreationDate="2019-07-05T15:11:42.683" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to make non-alcoholic beer that actually still tastes good is to boil the alcohol off under a vacuum.  Since the vapor pressure of alcohol is much lower than that of water, they can basically draw off most of the alcohol under a vacuum.  You wouldn't want to distill it off in standard fashion by adding heat because it would result in cooked flavors that are unpleasant.  By using vacuum, little or no heat is required to remove the alcohol.  Unless you are a science wizard, this can only be done in a commercial or laboratory setting.  I don't know of anyone doing this at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, however, brew a decent kvass or kombucha at home which is typically around 0.5-1.0% ABV.  Perhaps that is something you might be interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T15:11:42.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-07T22:09:13.880" Score="1" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building up to my first home brewing I purchased a muntons brewery in a bag session IPA. (On special from Aldi seemed like a steal). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed all instructions to the letter keeping everything sterile. Instructions were; add 4 pints of warm water to dissolve one, add dried yeast packet, top up with cold water, leave to ferment, move somewhere cold after a week. In the beginning it was bubbling away and seemed to be fermenting just fine. This continued until the last week when it stopped inflating the bag - I initially assumed it was due to the process coming to an end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Big excitement on day 30, I crack open my beer, pull off a big glass of sediment and discard it. I then pull a 1/4 of a pint. It smells wrong, tasting it I discover it is sweet and unfermented. I’m crestfallen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it’s due to the dried yeast being faulty. So I took 250ml of the liquid, 250ml of warm water, added 2x7g of dried baking yeast, and a couple of spoons of auger to make a yeast starter. Once it was bubbling and I had left the beer next to the radiator to warm up slightly I added it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few hours it appears to be frothing, and smells slightly like its fermenting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is - is there any point in this experiment and can anyone suggest a time scale? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17423" LastEditorUserId="17426" LastEditDate="2019-07-17T14:13:04.780" LastActivityDate="2019-07-17T14:13:04.780" Title="Will bread yeast restart stuck brewery in a bag" Tags="|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24331" CreationDate="2019-07-07T23:59:22.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bread yeast will do the trick fast, probably within 2 days.  But, will end up tasting like bread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might be better next time to just buy your own yeast.  US-05 is extremely reliable for just about any beer style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T23:59:22.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6671" CreationDate="2019-07-08T05:29:05.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the 'floaties' twice. If I lager over a long period, even in winter, they occur. I researched it and just rack the beer of from below. They won't affect the taste, but will turn into a full-blown infection if left for too long; pretty much like any beer will, even without floaties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17425" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T05:29:05.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-08T22:34:12.733" Score="6" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a home winemaker, I try to focus on &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; varietal per year.  This allows me to do the harvest, crush, press and all associated cleaning only &lt;strong&gt;ONCE&lt;/strong&gt; per year in the fall.  But it does limit my blending abilities only getting one varietal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have ~50gal of 2018 Merlot, and am considering either (a) bottling it as is soon or (b) getting ~50gal of Cab this fall and blending it all 50/50 next summer ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;https://winemakermag.com/article/97-blending-to-improve-wines&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; by Ed Kraus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Blend wines that are from the same year. Blending wines from different years, in general, does not work as well. Wines blended from different years seem to have more instances of precipitation. These types of blends also seem to pull the older vintage back to a youthful harshness even though it might have been almost at its ultimate age for consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it bad to do blending of wine in two consecutive years like this? Is one year ok?  Anybody with experience with this? How did the wine turn out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3341" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T21:51:08.657" Title="Wine blending from different years" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24334" CreationDate="2019-07-09T21:25:33.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not blended wines from different years, but it's done in the Port and Champagne wine making realms. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solera&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Solera&lt;/a&gt; is usually done on Madeira, Port and Sherry where they blend wines from different years. They also do it in Champagne for NV (Non Vintage) type of wines. I would say go for it if the result is better than the single vintages. Blend some and keep some unblended. I would do it very close to the end of the fermentation process of the 2nd year so the difference in age between the two is the smallest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-07-09T21:25:33.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-10T20:40:49.587" Score="3" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to use aluminum coil in jockey boxes even if the tube is firstly boiled to create that protective dark layer on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what is the frequency that is necessary to make and keep it with that protective dark layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6404" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2020-05-29T03:55:54.503" LastActivityDate="2020-05-29T03:55:54.503" Title="Aluminum coil in jockey boxes" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24329" CreationDate="2019-07-11T11:24:26.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a homebrew scale, I have had decent results making &quot;non-alcoholic&quot; beer by boiling off the alcohol in the oven.  It took a long time, but I did not perceive the &quot;cooked&quot; flavor that people mention.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My process&lt;/strong&gt;:  Pour your fermented beer into a non-reactive oven-safe pot and place in a 250 deg F oven.  KEEP THE OVEN DOOR OPEN SLIGHTLY to release the alcohol vapors.  Leave pot of beer in the oven until the temperature of the beer is at least 200 deg F (alcohol boils at about 173 deg F). Remove from oven and cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keg as normal.  Bottle with extra yeast to carbonate. I used about 1.5g dried yeast per gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It worked splendidly for a non-alcoholic Porter I made last year. YMMV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6300" LastEditorUserId="6300" LastEditDate="2019-07-12T16:02:07.750" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T16:02:07.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24290" CreationDate="2019-07-11T18:34:24.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't say that you chilled the keg before beginning the carbonation process. This is a critical step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solubility of CO2 is quite low at room/fermentation temperatures. Before you can successfully force-carbonate with high pressure and shaking, you have to cool the keg. In my experience, you need to plan on at least 24 hours in the fridge before you can high-pressure carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the years, I have transitioned from high pressure and shaking to a week at more modest pressure (e.g., 10 PSI) for a couple of reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High pressure with shaking gave me really inconsistent results. Either I would under-carbonate and have to re-pressurize and shake some more, or I would over-carbonate and have to deal with excessive foaming (especially with short serving lines).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High pressure with shaking caused some marital difficulties, because I would invariably get impatient and spray beer/foam out of the keg at 30+ PSI when de-pressurizing. Apparently, I am not very good at finding and wiping up all of the sticky mess.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modest pressure for a week takes a lot less of my time and reliably gives consistent results. When I keg, I put it in the fridge and connect the CO2 and leave it alone for a week. Versus having to visit the keg a day after kegging (once it is properly chilled) to pressurize, shake, let it settle down for a while, purge the excess pressure, try to clean up the mess I made, test the carbonation level, repeat to fix the carbonation level, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also learned that having proper (diameter and length) serving lines is a huge help to make serving not be a frustrating endeavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3003" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T18:34:24.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24250" CreationDate="2019-07-11T22:45:15.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the source of the infection was glycerin I used, since I perhaps erroneously assumed it should be sterile from a previously unopened container. I found citations that Sporobolomyces in particular had been isolated from &quot;technical glycerin&quot;. Will now run my glycerin supply through the pressure cooker &quot;autoclave&quot;. (My wife, trained as a microbiologist, is suspicious that the glycerin will all boil over during autoclaving, but I found with a simple search that glycerin boils far above the temperatures you get with a pressure cooker.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further note: Also saw an article that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jbc.org/content/282/11/8228.full&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;colored mutants of Saccharomyces cerevisiae&lt;/a&gt; (the species we are usually using for beer making) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jbc.org/content/282/11/8228/F1.expansion.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;can occur when they lose certain enzyme capacities&lt;/a&gt;, so this may be more common than I realize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And final note: Was unable to taste any skunky or &quot;off&quot; odors or tastes in the final product. No differences between the recovered yeast batch and the new commercial batch. And no one got sick or died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16361" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T22:45:15.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-12T17:25:00.077" Score="8" ViewCount="3297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few campden tablet left over from a mead I made 10 or so years ago. Are they still good? Do the lose efficacy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I google the subject, I find lots of links saying, &lt;code&gt;Throw them out after 6 months.&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;They should be good forever.&lt;/code&gt; I'm looking for an answer that cites sources, or otherwise gives an empirical explanation as to why or why not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastEditorUserId="3914" LastEditDate="2019-07-17T18:32:30.700" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T21:41:17.880" Title="Do campden tablets expire?" Tags="|campden|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24341" CreationDate="2019-07-12T22:50:49.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They should last at least 50 years, maybe hundreds.  I've been using mine for 20 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;David M. Taylor&#xA;B.S. Chemical Engineering&#xA;Michigan Tech&#xA;Class of 1997&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T22:50:49.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-13T08:48:36.990" Score="0" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to make a wine using Welch's 100% Grape Juice with Calcium ! &#xA;Is the calcium problem here ! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13886" LastEditorUserId="13886" LastEditDate="2019-07-15T17:27:25.460" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T19:47:18.123" Title="Welch's 100% Grape Juice with Calcium/ yeast" Tags="|wine|red-wine|barleywine|country-wine|fruit-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24343" CreationDate="2019-07-15T12:55:29.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Calcium is not going to be an issue.  The sorbate as a preservative is likely going to be an issue.  Pitch more yeast than you think you need to overcome the preservative.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T12:55:29.657" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-16T11:01:39.080" Score="1" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a little beer brewing kit to use at home with a 4L fermentation bottle. Up until I filled the beer into the bottle I think I've done everything right, but since then I saw no sign of a fermentation process in the bottle whatsoever. I think I used a bit to little yeast. The color, consistency and the overall apperance of the beer have not changed at all and it's been like 10 days now. Is there any way I can save this &quot;beer&quot;, for example if I open the fermentation bottle, fill in some yeast and close it again for a week or is this batch of &quot;beer&quot; completely lost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Simon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17441" OwnerDisplayName="s137" LastActivityDate="2019-07-17T13:51:18.307" Title="Beer brewing, what to do when you used too little yeast for fermentation?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24341" CreationDate="2019-07-17T10:54:00.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My stock is about 12 years old, and the tablets still do their job, removing chlorine and chloramines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2019-07-17T10:54:00.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24347" CreationDate="2019-07-17T13:30:31.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes (rarely and with low gravity table beer) I see very little signs of fermentation. Just a thin layer of krausen on top. &#xA;The only way to really know if fermentation has started/finished is to test the gravity to see if any of the sugars have been converted by the yeast you used. If this test shows that the gravity is the same as the starting gravity, then you could pitch a new batch of yeast, appropriately sized for your volume and gravity of wort. &#xA;If the test shows that the yeast have begun eating the sugars but the beer has not reached final gravity, I would wait a bit to give the yeast a chance to attenuate fully. &#xA;If subsequent gravity readings indicate a stalled fermentation, then I would advise you to search this site for &quot;Stalled Fermentation&quot; There are many good answers here on how to deal with this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastEditorUserId="16438" LastEditDate="2019-07-17T13:51:18.307" LastActivityDate="2019-07-17T13:51:18.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24337" CreationDate="2019-07-21T22:57:45.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be worried about using aluminium, personally, but be VERY careful with your choice of cleaners. Most especially, don't try to use caustic. If you're at all worried, I would recommend finding a stainless coil, or using some normal beerline. Or even a cooling plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side concern, do you know where the coil has been? What has it been used for in the past, if anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-07-21T22:57:45.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24149" CreationDate="2019-07-23T15:47:19.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What it sounds like you need is a called a stepped starter approach. Apparently, this is less stressful for the yeast. Though a ginger bug is technically a SCOBY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a new (bigger) batch of the solution that you feed your ginger bug. Anecdotally, I have seen 10X to 20X the existing volume. If you wanted to be more conservative, you could just double the volume.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combine the existing ginger bug with the new &quot;food.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the bug sit for the amount of time you regularly do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat till you get the volume you need to pitch your beer and maintain your pre-existing ginger bug.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17453" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-07-29T09:39:09.057" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T09:39:09.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24353" CreationDate="2019-07-26T13:13:12.257" Score="6" ViewCount="4639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an experienced Beer home brewer, but I've never done a Cider and would like to try. I've bought natural pressed apple juice from a farm near me, it's free of preservatives, and thus is chilled to be drunk soon. It's reasonably sweet (not tart) and may already have sugar added for sweetness. It's very clear clean apple juice and awesome to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've bought CBC-1 Yeast and some Nutrivin Yeast nutrient for the fermentation. I'm most worried about contaminants in the apple juice, i.e. will probably contain many natural yeasts as well that will also attempt to ferment it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I spoil the apple juice by pasteurizing it before cooling and pitching yeast (i.e. first heating to 75'C - 167'F)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I even try pasteurizing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T09:26:27.747" Title="Pasteurizing Apple Juice for Cider" Tags="|fermentation|cider|pasteurization|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24352" CreationDate="2019-07-26T14:05:46.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most cidermakers do not agree with this, but personally I am a big proponent of juice pasteurization.  I heat mine to 71-74 C (160-165 F) for about 10 minutes then immediately chill.  I get excellent results, I enjoy my ciders as much or better than others.  I used to boil it but after realizing the lower temperature for 10 minutes is plenty, it's what I employ now for both cider and for mead as well.  (I've won a Best of Show for mead out of 28 entries so anecdotally at least it didn't hurt anything there either.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say go for it as you've planned.  I do the same thing.  Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-08-30T22:37:03.750" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T22:37:03.750" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24285" CreationDate="2019-07-28T12:53:27.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When cleaning suspect bottles is concerned, I personally prefer caustic soda. This is generally considered the nuclear weapon of cleaning and is not usually required for normal cleaning jobs, but when I get bottles that have been standing in someone's driveway for a few months and have stuff growing in it not previously known to Man, accept no substitute. I have also used it for bottles that contained contaminated batches (both with bacterial and wild yeast infections) with good results. The caustic removes molds, yeast residues, tar from cigarette butts, garden refuse, snails and anything else you care to imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;* CAUTION *&lt;/strong&gt; Caustic soda is nasty stuff. Wear gloves and goggles when using it, and always add caustic soda to water, never the other way around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a nice, strong, luke-warm solution of caustic, let the bottles sit in it overnight, rinse with plenty of clean running water the next day. They'll be sqeuaky-clean and ready for use after normal sanitizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T12:53:27.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24341" CreationDate="2019-07-28T12:56:21.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Campden tablets consist of sodium metabisulphite (an inorganic salt used as a preservative with no expiry date) and a binder, typically lactose or starch which also doesn't go off. Normally lactose and starch could be subject to bacteria, mold or other organic deterioration, but the sodium metabisulphite will prevent that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: use them no matter what the &quot;best before&quot; date says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that a best before date is mandatory because this is a food grade product. Even CO2 used to serve beer on tap is required to have an expiry date, even though this is nonsense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T12:56:21.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24329" CreationDate="2019-07-28T13:01:05.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already stated above, boiling off the alcohol is pretty much the only option available to the average home brewer. You can't brew alcohol free beer since alcohol is a byproduct of fermentation; you can only remove the alcohol after fermentation. Industrial brewers mostly use high-tech filtering methods, sometimes vacuum evaporation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not the boiling off changes the flavour to the point where this becomes noticeable or problematic depends on the beer style, especially where the hop character is concerned. A beer with lots of volatile hop aromas will suffer more than a malt driven beer with only some bittering hops (e.g. an English stout).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using hop extracts may be the way to go here. Use extract for bittering since it tends to be more stable than pellets or cones, remove the alcohol and then add more hop extracts for flavouring and/or aromatizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YMMV so expect to need some experimentation here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T13:01:05.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-28T16:56:04.260" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how long it takes for these to carbonate a 12 oz bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T23:00:04.640" Title="Brewer's Best Conditioning Tabs" Tags="|bottling|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24357" CreationDate="2019-07-28T23:00:04.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the health and quantity of the yest remaining in the beer and the temperature where the bottles condition, as well as the strength and pH of the beer. There's no one answer, but if your beer is &quot;normal&quot;, i.e. not excessively strong, not sour, and only recently pulled from the fermenter, 2 weeks would be a normal time if the bottles are at about 20c. After this time, just test them every now and again until you're happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T23:00:04.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24149" CreationDate="2019-07-29T09:55:29.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correctly staggering your feeds as adding too much sugar at once can stress the yeast and bacteria in your SCOBY (Symbiotic Colony of Bacteria and Yeast) or bug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know the size of your current bug, but I would suggest you could increase the feeding rate, ie do what you are doing now but daily rather than every 2 days. BUT, I would wait till it is happily bubbling before ramping up the feeding, as if the bug is not chewing up the sugars you provide then it will stress it out and slow down the growth you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, adding a little lemon/orange juice can help as it lowers the pH slightly which the bacteria will prefer, and provides easily accessible nutrients which can help in the initial rapid growth phase for yeast and bacteria. Also, if you are taking the lid of for feeding every day, after feeding, give it a good shake to get some oxygen dissolved into the solution, as both yeast and bacteria need oxygen in their growth pahses to allow them to make sterols in the cellular membranes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your bug grows and its capacity for metabolism increases you can provide more nutrients with each feed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T09:55:29.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24352" CreationDate="2019-07-29T10:01:22.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would do both, I would get 2 batches on the go, one pasturised and one with the wild yeast doing their unpredictable thing. Then you have a story to tell when you crack them open with friends. I am personally a great fan of wild yeast and experimentaion with cultures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will get far more predictable and repetable results with pasturisation, and with the wild you will get the falvour of the field the apples were picked in (well of the yeast that was there). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T10:01:22.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24341" CreationDate="2019-07-29T10:02:46.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using some that were ~20 years old until they ran out and I had to buy some more, never had an issue with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T10:02:46.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24337" CreationDate="2019-07-29T10:13:07.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminium was discontinued for use in casks and kegs here in the UK in the due to it slowly being dissolved by the beer when the protective epoxy liners got damaged. A layer of oxide will not protect your aluminium from being corroded by the beer, I would use stainless or plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T10:13:07.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24005" CreationDate="2019-07-30T11:46:47.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Basic Brewers Best 1000 kit wins in my opinion because it comes with a thermometer and hydrometer, which the other kit does not.  These are important tools for any homebrewers.  Alternatively, of course, you can just purchase these separately.  But the Midwest kit is really incomplete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T11:46:47.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24005" CreationDate="2019-07-30T19:21:56.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought myself this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewtek.ca/micro-brew/micro-brew-blond-23-liter-631021&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewtek.ca/micro-brew/micro-brew-blond-23-liter-631021&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if it's good. Last time I tried the &quot;Brooklyn&quot; one :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/Brooklyn-Brew-Shop-Making-Bruxelles/dp/B00CFJLUNK/ref=sr_1_6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.ca/Brooklyn-Brew-Shop-Making-Bruxelles/dp/B00CFJLUNK/ref=sr_1_6&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my batch was undrinkable. Wish me luck this time. :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17465" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T19:21:56.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24005" CreationDate="2019-07-31T13:35:15.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to agree with @dmtaylor, get the Basic Brewers Best 1000 kit out of those 2 as it had hydrometer and thermometer. With out these 2 basic tools making beer is rather more challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I would add on to of one of these kits (in addition to your beer ingredients) are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Campden Tabletes to knock the chorine ions out of your brewing water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A couple of extra yeast packs, many kits come with very small packs of yeast ~6g to save costs, I would typically pitch into 25l/5g about 22g/1oz of yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;almost forgot get some extra sanitising chemicals, things can never be too clean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, as always good luck and have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-07-31T13:35:15.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24369" CreationDate="2019-07-31T16:18:30.300" Score="7" ViewCount="5732" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people consider home wine brewing safe, regarding the methanol dose that is being produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia mentions &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_methanol_poisoning_incidents#Cambodia&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2012 methanol poisoning incident&lt;/a&gt; in Cambodia, caused by &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.people.cn/90777/7729449.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;drinking home-made rice wine&lt;/a&gt; contaminated by methanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How did it happen? Does the rice contain pectins (like in grapes or berries) which are &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/17055/how-can-i-minimize-methanol-fusel-alcohols-in-wine&quot;&gt;responsible for methanol formation&lt;/a&gt;?&#xA;Or the incident was rather caused by the addition of extra (unprofessionally distilled) alcohol contaminated by methanol?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17467" LastEditorUserId="17467" LastEditDate="2019-07-31T22:51:49.593" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T19:45:30.830" Title="Can methanol be formed when brewing a rice wine?" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24367" CreationDate="2019-07-31T22:03:20.357" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting.  This is the first I've really looked into this.  A quick Google search led me to a study by the US National Library of Medicine National Institutes of Health.  This study found that fermentations of the following ingredients can sometimes lead to relatively high quantities of methanol in fermented beverages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bananas,&#xA;Sugarcane,&#xA;Agave,&#xA;Plums&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concentration of methanol found in these fermented beverages ranged from 0 to about 1.5-2% at the most.  Some governments like the EU actually find these amounts to be acceptable, while most other governments do not.  The US government for instance limits methanol concentration to a maximum of 0.1%, which is highly conservative, and approximately matches the blood-alcohol toxicity level for methanol of approximately 0.10-0.15%.  Yet in many instances where death has occurred, the methanol content in these beverages was found to be as high as 16-25%!  This leads me to believe that either foul play was involved, or unskilled distillers made a bad product, leading to many or most of the methanol-related deaths, considering that natural undistilled fermentations appear to be limited to around the 0.2% level.  This also makes sense in that most naturally fermented beverages cannot exceed about 12-14% ethanol content -- the yeast just gets too tired before it can ferment any higher than that.  And with many (most?) yeast strains, the ethanol limit is even lower than that, maybe 8-9% for a lot of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The US study also states: &quot;Methanol is produced during fermentation by the hydrolysis of naturally occurring pectin&quot;.  So it appears you may be correct that pectin plays a critical role in methanol production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does rice have pectin?  Some sources indicate yes.  But, is it a real concern?  That, I'm still not exactly sure of.  I'm guessing, probably not.  I believe the deaths we see in the news are being caused mostly by distillers who don't really know what they are doing.  And if you are not distilling, I think the risk of adverse health effects or death is probably extremely low, assuming you're consuming only moderate quantities of course.  High ethanol levels of &gt;0.40% blood-alchol level will probably kill you before the tiny fractions of percents of methanol will... unless you're drinking distilled beverages.  And I'm sure we need not go into the statistics and risks of ethanol poisoning here, that's beside the point.  As always... consume any alcoholic beverage at your own risk, be responsible, don't be stupid, all good things in moderation, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting question.  Thanks for bringing it up.  Wish I could be more help.  I might look into this topic some more later when I have more time.  Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5028366/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5028366/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://healthfully.com/list-foods-containing-pectin-5903391.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://healthfully.com/list-foods-containing-pectin-5903391.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://foodworksblog.wordpress.com/2011/06/05/rice-white-or-brown/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://foodworksblog.wordpress.com/2011/06/05/rice-white-or-brown/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-07-31T22:03:20.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24367" CreationDate="2019-08-01T10:38:41.540" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreeing with &lt;code&gt;dmtaylor&lt;/code&gt; and the references he quoted, but adding a few foot notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saccaromyces Cerevisiae (beer/bread yeast) and S. Bayanus (wine/distilling yeast) are genetically incapable of producing more than minute levels of methanol during fermentation;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Certain bacteria are capable of producing significant amounts of methanol, but only under the right conditions, under which they partially oxidize methane into methanol. This requires the presence of methane (a byproduct from bacterial decomposition) and oxygen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that as long as you observe proper sanitation (ie. avoid bacterial contamination) and manage your oxygen levels (ie. aerate/oxygenate your must/wort/wash prior to pitching yeast and keep it anaerobic thereafter) you have NO chance of methanol occurring in more than trace quantities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, &lt;strong&gt;a proper fermentation is safe.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The horror stories of methanol-containing booze wiping out entire parties are the result of mixing methanol into beverages intended for human consumption (either accidentally or deliberately). While bacterial contamination could conceivably produce significant amounts of methanol, the conditions for this to occur are so far removed from a normal fermentation that you will definitely spot it, starting with the odors of the bacterial decomposition that produces the methane required, and the fatal levels of oxygen you would have to had introduced into your fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T10:38:41.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-04T10:59:05.930" Score="3" ViewCount="1102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making mead for the first time. I used bakers yeast and a baloon as an air lock . The tutorial said that the yeast will be off gasing for 3 weeks but my mead only off gased the first day. Now it's a bit inflated but nothing compared the first day&#xA;Is it okay or should I add more yeast. It's in a warm environment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QAMcf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo after first day &quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17485" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T20:39:18.850" Title="Baloon air lock not inflating after second day" Tags="|first-time-brewer|mead|brewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24370" CreationDate="2019-08-05T03:49:45.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may not have a perfect seal, so the gas is dissipating into the atmosphere. This is not a problem. The airlock serves only as a safety mechanism - it prevents buildup of gas, while also preventing anything getting into the container. An airlock is one of many ways to achieve this. You can put a bit of aluminium foil over the lid, a teatowel, anything that won't let dust or bugs through, basically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about the balloon, and never ever use the airlock (whatever type you use) as an indication of fermentation. Gas coming out can be caused by more than just fermentation, and no gas coming out can be caused by more than an absence of fermentation. If you want data, you need to measure the liquid with a hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastEditorUserId="16544" LastEditDate="2019-08-06T02:48:07.443" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T02:48:07.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-06T08:01:08.880" Score="4" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I simply add more fruit and sugar to a batch of must once I have drawn off the majority of the first fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17495" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T20:31:13.913" Title="Reuse the must to continue winemaking" Tags="|fermentation|wine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24372" CreationDate="2019-08-06T21:52:01.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, of course you can.  Go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T21:52:01.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24372" CreationDate="2019-08-07T13:32:14.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your yeast is still alive, go ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this with mead before, and it worked out fine. Just make sure your sugar/alcohol levels don't get too far out of control.&#xA;Be sure to keep everything sterile as well, same as when you started the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17504" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T13:32:14.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24372" CreationDate="2019-08-07T14:34:24.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always add new ingredients before, during or after fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, be carefull to sanitize your equipement and wash the fruits carefully to avoid contamination of your must.  I would also add the sugar to a small quantity of boiling water to kill bacteria and help dilute it, then add to the must once it has cooled sufficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T14:34:24.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24370" CreationDate="2019-08-07T18:21:46.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case your fermentation has indeed deaccelerated this soon (and I agree with Frazbro that your balloon airlock is no indicator of that), it might be, along other factors, because of too much honey (high initial gravity musts are harder to ferment) or too little nutrient (honey itself does not have the necessary nutrients to keep your yeast healthy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two simple techniques you can employ, even with the setup you are using, are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxygenate the must. Remove the airlock and agitate your fermenter to dissipate the carbon dioxide and let more oxygen in. You can do this once or twice a day for the first few days of fermentation without fear of oxidizing your mead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add nutrients. Boil some water (50mL is enough) and bread yeast (10g) for a few minutes to kill the yeast and add it to the must. The yeast husk will feed your fermenting yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17506" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T18:21:46.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24379" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-13T13:33:19.490" Score="4" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a kettle sour and added guava in secondary. Everything was going well for a week. I went out of town for the weekend and noticed my carboy stopper and airlock about three feet away on the floor. Beer looks like it may be contaminated... thoughts on what to do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I add some campden drops or reboil? Or is it ruined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17519" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-08-14T19:30:22.573" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T04:20:15.193" Title="Has your airlock ever shot out of your carboy?" Tags="|fermentation|equipment|airlock|secondary|carboy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24404" CreationDate="2019-08-13T16:17:44.457" Score="4" ViewCount="750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know the equipment and the step by step process, as I have already tried to do it, but it didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already watched several videos, but it is not the same to talk to someone that really loves, and knows how to do it. I don't know anybody that knows how to brew anything xD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17520" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-08-28T13:38:45.357" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T02:15:02.580" Title="How to brew moonshine?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|alcohol|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24379" CreationDate="2019-08-13T17:34:23.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It usually happens with strong fermentation when the krausen clogs the airlock, it is then ejected with the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fermentation was still active when you returned, the beer might not be contaminated due to gas escaping the container. What makes you think it is contaminated?  Is there anything unusual floating on the surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always add campden drops, but if a contamination already occur, there is no way to know if it will be enough to salvage the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be fine, I would continue the brewing process, smell and taste the brew from time to time to make sure there are no changes compared to what it is supposed to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happened to me once, a full day without airlock and the batch turned out great.  Keep your fingers crossed and hope for the best, but do not drop the batch before trying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-08-13T17:34:23.773" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6058" CreationDate="2019-08-14T09:59:26.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This all looks a bit like gobbledygook if you ask me.&#xA;The intention is not to dry yeast commercially, simply for the home brewer.&#xA;Norweigien Kveik has been dried at home for centuries, how do you think they dealt with it in the past before UV lights stainless steel chambers, pressurised canisters etc.&#xA;I would suggest you look at David Heath's Youtube channel for details on how to dry your own yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17524" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T09:59:26.803" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6058" CreationDate="2019-08-14T22:37:39.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found excellent guidance provided at the following link on how to dry yeast in your oven.  Basically, since your oven is one of the most sterile locations in your house (and even if it is not, it can easily be sterilized), just spread some yeast out on a sheet of wax paper in the oven, not with the oven turned on, but only the oven light on (assuming an incandescent lamp bulb), leave for a few days until dry, then package.  I have not tried this technique yet, but I do intend to try it very soon... and not only for kveik yeasts but why not also try it for other yeasts.  Hopefully it works well.  See for yourself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/drying-kveik-fast-and-easy-method.669196/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/drying-kveik-fast-and-easy-method.669196/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T22:37:39.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24380" CreationDate="2019-08-14T23:48:03.877" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moonshine&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Moonshine is the name&lt;/a&gt; for illegally made spirits of non-specific ingredients.  So I will answer your question as if you asked something like: &quot;How do I make spirits&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat: Currently, as far as I know, New Zealand is the only country where home distilling is legal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drinking-grade spirits are made by taking a fermented liquid, distilling it, discarding the poisonous methanol and other undesirable parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any water-based liquids that have a high sugar content can be used for the fermentation, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sugar &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;malt extract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Molasses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fruit Juices (etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or starchy foods that can be modified to become sugary (typically done with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amylase&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;amylase enzymes&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;malted barley (self-modifying at the correct temperature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;potatoes (etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This liquid is typically called a &quot;must&quot; for wine making, &quot;wash&quot; for spirits, or &quot;wort&quot; in beer making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a sugary-liquid is created, yeast is added. The yeast consumes the sugar in the liquid as part of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;fermentation process&lt;/a&gt;, producing (mostly) ethanol and carbon-dioxide.  Apart from barley-malt-water (wort), most of these ferments are difficult for yeast, as they do not include nutrients for optimal yeast health.  So use more yeast, or add the necessary yeast-nutrients (or both).  Generally most yeast can ferment up to about 14-20% AbV without doing anything special.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we were making wine or beer, the process is just about complete at the end of fermentation.  However when producing spirits a final distillation step is used to concentrate the alcohol.  Note: it is possible to freeze-distill, but as this concentrates &lt;em&gt;methanol&lt;/em&gt; (as well as ethanol) with no removal step, I feel it's not something a complete-beginner should attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key point to remember is that &lt;em&gt;alcohols evaporate at a lower temperature than water&lt;/em&gt;.  So if an aqueous alcohol solution is heated to a temperature less than the boiling point of water, the alcohol can be separated as vapour.  This process is &quot;distillation&quot;.  The distillation of &quot;moonshine&quot; is a simplified &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fractional_distillation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;fractional distillation&lt;/a&gt;.  The fermented &lt;em&gt;wash&lt;/em&gt; is heated to a specific temperature (e.g.: 55-65°C) such that mostly only the alcohols are evaporated from the ferment.  A condenser-part at the top of the distillation apparatus cools the alcohol vapour back into liquid, where it is collected. As the temperature of the wash rises, water becomes a larger part of the output.  Water is evaporating all the time, it doesn't &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; evaporate at 100°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of distillation equipment used, the spirits may then be re-distilled again.  But in &lt;strong&gt;all cases&lt;/strong&gt;, the first part of the distillate is removed as it contains &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methanol_toxicity&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;harmful by-products like methanol&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the spirit is distilled, it is diluted to a known alcohol level, and then sometimes aged with the addition of wood (e.g.: stored in oak barrels), which changes the colour &amp;amp; flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the laws of your country, it may be possible to purchase off-the-shelf distillation equipment.  Simple searches like &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://duckduckgo.com/?q=reflux%20still&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;reflux still&lt;/a&gt;&quot; or &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://duckduckgo.com/?q=alembic%20pot%20still&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;alembic pot still&lt;/a&gt;&quot; will find both &lt;a href=&quot;https://stillspirits.com/pages/instructions&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructional-HOWTOs&lt;/a&gt; and products for purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2019-08-14T23:59:45.227" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T23:59:45.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-16T10:27:22.333" Score="5" ViewCount="566" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is well known that ester formation in beer is mainly a factor of temperature. Higher fermentation temperatures produce more esters. (Other factors play a role as well, such as the yeast's genetic proclivity to ester formation, pitching rates and dissolved oxygen (DO) levels, but if these are considered equal, temperature is the primary controlling factor.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately I have been brewing some Belgian ales with POF+ Belgian yeasts, which causes me to wonder: &lt;strong&gt;is the formation of spicy phenols also temperature-related?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Once again other factors in POF formation play a role here, the most well-known one being the presence of ferulic acid in Weizen worts, which is decarboxylated into  4-Vinyl guaiacol during fermentation. However, this phenol is only a minor one among the desirable volatile spicy phenols typically produced by Belgian yeasts.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that phenols are produced early in the fermentation cycle, whereas esters are produced later from fatty acids and higher alcohols. However, Belgian fermentations typically start cool in order to keep the higher alcohols in check and prevent a &quot;hot&quot; or harsh alcohol character, and are then ramped up. Pitching warm and starting the fermentation warm can create an excess of sharp and &quot;hot&quot; fusels but I haven't noticed an increase in spicy phenols in these cases. Which suggests that the formation of these spicy notes in POV+ yeasts is not significantly temperature related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what factors govern the amount of volatile spicy phenols in Belgian ales and how might they be manipulated to vary the amounts of volatile spicy phenols produced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-08-19T13:28:18.150" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T14:49:18.527" Title="Is phenol production temperature related or not?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18795" CreationDate="2019-08-16T10:54:40.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The formation of fruity esters by a given yeast (i.e. not counting yeast genetics as a variable) is governed by many factors, some of which are conflicting can can drive you to drink. Some of these are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitching rate. Lower pitching rates (mainly in traditionally brewed ales) and higher pitching rates (in commercially brewed lagers) give you more fruity esters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dissolved Oxygen (DO) levels. Lower levels of dissolved oxygen (ie less wort aeration) promote the formation of fruity esters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermenter geometry. A low, wide, flat bottomed fermenter will make it easy for the yeast at the bottom of the fermenter to vent off the CO2 produced. This is important, as CO2 inhibits the formation of fruity esters. A tall, narrow conical fermenter will retain more CO2 in the yeast deposit at the bottom, resulting in more CO2 inhibition and therefore lower levels of fruity esters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitching temperature. Fruity esters are formed from fatty acids and higher alcohols. More yeast growth early in the fermentation consumes more fatty acids early on, which leaves less of them available for ester formation later in the fermentation. Pitching cool delays yeast growth a little, which leaves more fatty esters available for subsequent ester formation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermentation temperature. Notwithstanding all of the above, &lt;strong&gt;this is    the most important factor by far.&lt;/strong&gt; Higher temperatures give you more    fruity esters. The End. If you want to keep your fruity esters down,    ferment cooler.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that said, many factors work against each other, and manipulating your pitching rate, aeration/oxygenation, pitching temperature and fermentation temperature schedule is always a trade-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would suggest you start by fermenting cooler. This will give you the biggest bang for your buck right off the bat. If that doesn't get you where you want to be, consider the other factors discussed above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that yeast genetics also play an important role, so what works for one yeast may not work (or not work the same way) for another one. Belgian yeasts are well known for large amounts of fruity esters (e.g. Fermentis BE-256 goes nuclear on iso-amyl acetate / banana aromas) but typically respond far more to variations in DO levels. The difference between a well-aerated wort and a poorly aerated wort with BE-256 at the same temperature can be dramatic: the one can be a fruity ale and the other a 20 megaton banana bomb. An American ale yeast will most likely respond far more to temperature and pitching rate variations than it will to variations in DO levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: experiment! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-08-19T11:21:04.857" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T11:21:04.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-20T14:27:10.810" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to know the equipment and the step by step process, cause i already try do it, but it didn't work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already watch several videos, but its not the same to talk to someone that really loves , and know how to do it. I don't know anybody that knows how to brew anything &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17520" OwnerDisplayName="Pedro Varela" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2020-09-28T10:38:32.180" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T10:38:32.180" Title="How to brew moonshine?" Tags="|alcohol|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2019-08-22T10:34:53.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13026" CreationDate="2019-08-21T14:33:16.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two possible scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Too much Campden Powder&lt;/strong&gt; - Campden Powder releases sulfur dioxide into the liquid by it's nature it kills living stuff. Brewers who brew at scale have a reason to use it, but smaller home brewers I don't believe need it. It depends on how much you put in and how much time you gave before pitching, i.e allowing the concentration of SO2 to decrease before pitching. (Pasteurizing may be better)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature&lt;/strong&gt; - Generally I have used CBC-1 for my ciders, it's not as aggressive as general ale yeast and as a result I find it's much more sensitive to temperature fluctuations. Meaning sudden changes or if it's a little too cool will cause it to get stuck. If it does I will generally slowly bring up the temp and give the entire solution a seriously vigorous shake - this always restarts the process. I have never had it permanently stuck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last Comment; If you are able to restart as in (2), it's very likely just a temperature issue - however if you can't at all and this happens repeatedly with batches, I'm 99.9% sure it's the Campden powder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also suggest you rather pasturize before pitching rather than using Campden tablets. Same effect without imparting chemicals into a otherwise totally natural drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2019-08-21T14:33:16.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-22T21:18:32.700" Score="1" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of building a fermentation temperature controller (in the same spirit as the grainfather glycol chiller), the process is mostly done and I am testing the system with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat exchange is made through a hand-bent copper tubing plunged in the fermentation vessel; the problem is, after a day or two, the water inside the vessel takes a light yellow tint and there is a rust spot at the bottom of the vessel (the chiller touches it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are, will this affect the beer? Is there a way to prevent it? I am thinking the yeast will eat the oxygen, preventing oxidation but will it be enough? worst case scenario I'll buy an inox chiller but its a bit against the DIY spirit :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17553" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T17:35:27.697" Title="Home made copper chiller oxidation" Tags="|fermentation|wort-chiller|diy|copper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24392" CreationDate="2019-08-23T05:54:14.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How clean is your copper coil? If it were me, I'd be going straight for stainless, to be honest. If you want to go the DIY copper route, keep the copper outside the fermenter by wrapping it around the outside, a sort of DIY jacket, if you will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T05:54:14.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-23T15:12:04.440" Score="2" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my first batch (APA) and while boiling I lost way too much water which resulted in higher OG. Expected was 1.050 but I got &lt;strong&gt;1.080&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;I added Safale US-05 (1 pack) and left it to ferment at 20°C (68°F) for 17 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being impatient, after 17 days of fermentation, I started cold crashing my beer without measuring my FG. &#xA;It's now on 3°C (37°F) for 36 hours (it took me 12h to bring it down from 20°C to 3°C) and I plan to leave it like that for another 48h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, I'll go and (try) to bottle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what can I expect?&#xA;Do you think yeast managed to do it's job in those 17 days?&#xA;What should I do if my FG is high?&#xA;Recipe says it should be 1.010 but what would happen if it's a bit higher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if there's too much questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17557" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-26T00:42:43.217" LastActivityDate="2019-10-26T00:42:43.217" Title="Fermentation time for APA with 1.080 OG" Tags="|fermentation|beer|original-gravity|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24392" CreationDate="2019-08-23T17:35:27.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/appendices/appendix-b/brewing-metallurgy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Brew: Brewing Metallurgy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, there should be no problem in using a copper chiller in your fermenting beer. Make sure there is no oxidation before you use your cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T17:35:27.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13034" CreationDate="2019-08-23T21:16:29.023" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m sure you know and are using a food grade plastic bucket.  Never ever let cider come in contact with metal, not buckets not taps barrel taps or pipes. Quite simply they react and poison the cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to make cider is to mash and press cider apples or if you can’t get them then a mix of 40% eating apples (Cox orange pippins are excellent) and 60% cooking apples (Bramley apples are perfect). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Press the apple juice directly into freshly emptied oak rum or whiskey barrels (rum barrels make amazing cider), these can be purchased from various ex -distillery outlets who sadly cut them in half and sell them as water barrels and flower tubs. They hold about 45 - 51 gallons but with cider juice you don’t have to fill them to the brim.  Add 2 lbs of raw Demerara sugar per gallon and nothing else. There are some 40,000 natural apple yeasts and one of them will very quickly get going and take control in a fairly violent way! For the first couple of days just lightly cover the bung hole and let the fresh fermenting juice bubble and chuck out the bits and pieces of apple stalks and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it’s slowed down use a water primed airlock in the tightly fitted bung and leave it.  It will eventually slow right down to a dormant stage during winter but come spring will restart keep the airlock fresh and primed with water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After two years you will have a still, clear vintage cider such as you’ve probably never tasted! It doesn’t need racking off as cider digests it’s own sediment.  Beware though, it is mighty strong at about 12 -14% and to be drunk like wine rather than beer - a pint would knock you sideways or poleaxe you - I’ve seen that happen.  In short cider alcohol is a different beast and at this strength to be treated with considerable respect. It is wonderful in moderation and a tremendous alcohol to cook with too, a small glass full on a roast changes everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can syphon from a 50 gallon barrel and float carbon dioxide down on top of the cider expelling lighter oxygen from the barrel, this will keep it fresh. In Kent 30 years ago I had 800 gallons of different ciders and perry ciders (you need to add a lot of citric acid to pear juice) in a 16th century cellar full of barrels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17558" LastEditorUserId="17558" LastEditDate="2019-08-23T21:24:18.137" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T21:24:18.137" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24399" CreationDate="2019-08-24T17:17:16.923" Score="4" ViewCount="1673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just came across this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Different strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae produce different proportions of carbon dioxide and alcohol. Baker's yeast is a blend of several strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae chosen for their flavor and ability to make carbon dioxide, which causes bread to rise. Brewer's yeast is made of strains chosen for their alcohol-producing ability and tends to have a bitter flavor. Brewer's yeast is considered an inactive yeast while baker's yeast is an active yeast. &lt;strong&gt;In an active yeast the yeast cells are still alive, whereas they are killed in the process of making inactive yeasts, like brewer's yeast.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.livestrong.com/article/418496-what-is-the-difference-between-brewers-yeast-bakers-yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.livestrong.com/article/418496-what-is-the-difference-between-brewers-yeast-bakers-yeast/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which I found surprising, thinking yeast was useless (for anything) if not alive, and having read of rehydrating and proofing with malt extract and checking for signs of life, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If it's not showing signs of life (churning, foaming) after a half hour, your &lt;strong&gt;yeast may be too old or dead. Unfortunately&lt;/strong&gt;, this can be a common problem with dry yeast packets, [...] Have a third packet available as back-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/yeast/preparing-yeast-and-yeast-starters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/yeast/preparing-yeast-and-yeast-starters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the first article just plain wrong (certainly it seems much less of an authority on brewing) - or is there some subtlety here that makes both quotes sort of correct but not quite telling all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17560" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T17:23:01.113" Title="Dead yeast is good yeast?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24398" CreationDate="2019-08-26T13:20:07.603" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am calling bullshit on the first article. Does this make any sense to you? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Brewer's yeast is used to brew homemade wines and beers, while baker's yeast makes bread rise. You can't brew alcohol with baker's yeast and you can't leaven bread with brewer's yeast&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is completely wrong. They are both are &lt;em&gt;saccharomyces cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt; and do essentially the same thing. People use both all the time. Use baker's yeast to make beer and use brewers yeast to make bread. I have made pizza dough from beer yeast so I know it works just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have these different strains been optimized for a specific purpose? Sure and baker's yeast makes a mediocre beer, but they are all alive and active. I think the confusion is coming from &quot;brewers&quot; yeast that is used for a nutritional supplement which I think is baked to kill the yeast and leave the hulls behind. Also, there is a difference between dried and fresh, which also seems to confused the author. Otherwise, all yeast you buy for the purpose of brewing and making bread are considered active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2019-08-28T17:23:01.113" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T17:23:01.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24402" CreationDate="2019-08-27T12:43:35.860" Score="2" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a Belle-Saison and it's been in a carboy for 1 month now. Someone with a lot of experience told me he once bought a beer with Brett (Beer was &quot;Orval&quot;) and droped the last 100ml into his fermenter and waited about 40days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never brewed a sour and I am more of a scientific approach normaly, but I am curious about this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think? Will I get the result I am hoping for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16606" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-08-28T13:18:16.933" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T13:18:16.933" Title="Droping beer with Brett in Carboy" Tags="|sour|saison|brettanomyces|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24400" CreationDate="2019-08-28T01:12:01.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brett beers can be very interesting, and aren't necessarily sour unless the source also was sour.  Brett usually gives more of a leather or &quot;barnyard&quot; character which can evolve with longer aging.  Brett works very slowly so the 40-day guideline isn't far from the truth but you might need to wait even longer, many months possibly, to get much out of it.  If you are interested, go ahead and give it a go.  It shouldn't hurt anything, and might turn out awesome if you are patient and you think you will enjoy the Brett character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T01:12:01.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24400" CreationDate="2019-08-28T13:17:57.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brettanomyces comes in many forms, leading to many different flavour profiles. The main three you will come across commercially are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B.Claussenii - Fruity with mild funk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B.Bruxellensis - Tasty Horse Blanket (this is Orval)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B.Lambicus - heavy funk with sour fruits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on when you add the Brett to the fermentation will determine how soured your beer gets from the Brett. Brett operates in 2 modes, aerobic and anerobic and takes about 24-48 hours to transition between the 2. In the aerobic phase you will get higher levels of acetic production than in the anerobic phase [&lt;a href=&quot;https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00253-002-1197-z&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00253-002-1197-z&lt;/a&gt; ]. You would be adding the B.Brux to the FV after primary fermentation is completed and therefore it would enter in an anerobic state and produce very little acetic acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wished it to make a sour you could put a porous bung(cork) in your carboy to allow oxygen exchange over the 40 days, which would allow the brett to metabolise the remaining complex sugars with some O2 present allowing for more acid production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, realistically for a real sour Sour, you either would want to do a kettle sour, or be adding the Brett at the start of fermentation ie with oxygen present, or adding it along with a mix of bacteria Lacto, Pedio, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great source of information about sours, brett, mixed fermentations is the Milk The Funk wiki:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Brettanomyces&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Brettanomyces&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Lactobacillus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Lactobacillus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Pediococcus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Pediococcus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Mixed_Fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Mixed_Fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, above all don't fear the funk, just be ready to clean everything properly, and enjoy the funky flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T13:17:57.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24540" CreationDate="2019-08-29T11:40:55.943" Score="2" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve taken to making Cider and quite enjoy it. I now finalize my fermentation (temp controlled) at 1.015Gs before bottling or kegging. In the case of bottling I still prime with sugar and then test after two weeks - once I’m back at 1.015Gs I pasteurize the sealed bottles to halt fermentation. I am interested in hopping my cider now but I’m unsure of the process to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine it’s all dry hopping, but what hops, for how long and at what stage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally will the final pasteurizing process change the flavor because of the hopping?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-17T18:29:34.900" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T18:29:34.900" Title="Dry Hopping Cider" Tags="|fermentation|hops|cider|dry-hop|process|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24380" CreationDate="2019-08-30T02:15:02.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I'm a New Zealander (the only country right now where home distillation is legal) and I distill spirits on a regular basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kegland.com.au/robobrew-35l-gen-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Robobrew&lt;/a&gt; with an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/Still-Spirits-Copper-Pot-Still-Alembic-Dome-Top-Distilling-Top-for-Robobrew/272618788442&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alembic Pot Still Attachment&lt;/a&gt;. Why a Robobrew? I started off brewing beer and wanted to reuse some of my equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the Robobrew is almost useless for distilling unless you also invest in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32976468510.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;voltage controller&lt;/a&gt; - otherwise you dont have enough control over the vapour temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there are two main types of stills: Pot Stills and Reflux Stills. Pot stills are used for making spirits with taste (eg Whiskey, Bourbon, Rum - basically everything that isnt Vodka) and Reflux stills are used for making high-ABV neutral spirits (Vodka).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference between the spirit types is in the source materials - not the distillation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whiskey comes from fermenting malted barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bourbon comes from fermenting Corn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rum comes from fermenting Molasses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They all come off the still as a clear spirit that needs to be aged in specific ways in order to get the colour and flavour you see when you buy it off the shelf in a liquor store,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple steps for a whiskey:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a fermentable wort, which is essentially an all-grain beer. Do a normal mash, and don't worry about hop additions. You also don't need to do a full boil - 10min or so will do to kill any bugs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool down the wort to pitching temperature (exactly as you would a  beer) and pitch yeast as normal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When fermentation is complete, whack it into your still and run the still, collecting all output until it drops below 20% ABV (so measure the output regularly with an Alcometer). This is called the &quot;Stripping run&quot; and the purpose is to reduce the volume and concentrate the alcohol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you've done the stripping run, you can do a Spirit run. Dilute the distillate from the stripping run (or the combination of multiple stripping runs) with water to 40% ABV maximum and run it through the still. This time, collect and discard the first ~200mls (methanol - also known as the foreshots) and then collect the rest of the run in ~400ml jars until the output drops below 20% ABV. These jars are called &quot;cuts&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait 24hrs for the alcohol to settle. Now its time to blend your cuts. Smell and taste each jar, and blend the bits you like into another jar. Keep all the leftovers for increasing the yield of future stripping runs - these are called &quot;Feints&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add oak chips to your main jar and leave it for a few months - tasting every fortnight or so until you're happy with it. Note that when you taste you should dilute to ~40% ABV with distilled water or you will only be able to taste burning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fantastic references for more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCThY8lOKKkVDd9HVBT59zCg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;StillIt Youtube channel&lt;/a&gt; (made by a fellow kiwi)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homedistiller.org/forum/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Home Distillers forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16771" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T02:15:02.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24278" CreationDate="2019-08-30T02:33:48.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turbo Clear is a Still Spirits product deliberately designed to drop Still Spirits Turbo Yeast out of a sugar wash. You generally make a sugar wash for spirits distillation - not for beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if you've seen what Turbo Yeast does to a wash, but it was initially bred for making ethanol fuel. It ferments hard and fast and produces a cloudy / milky solution that looks, smells and tastes awful. The cloudiness is from all the yeast and nutrient particles and can burn on the bottom of your still if you don't try and clear them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enter Turbo Clear - it exists to bind to the particles and drop them to the bottom of the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you need to use it? Not really - as others have said, you can achieve the same effect much more cheaply by adding gelatin (dissolve it in warm water first) and then cold crashing your fermenter. I have done this several times and it yields a nice, clear beer. Of course it relies on you having the means to cold crash your fermenter - many people use an old fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16771" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T02:33:48.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23955" CreationDate="2019-08-30T02:38:10.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Robobrew and while it will run on 110V, it appears to be less than satisfactory (regardless of what their marketing tells you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that will help is buying the thermal jacket for it (it has an official thermal jacket) which will help to retain heat. Also as others have said, if your house has 2x110v phases from the main distribution get your local sparky to wire up a 220V outlet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in a 230V country but if I was forced to live in the states with no access to 220V+ then I would probably use a propane-based system rather than an electric system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16771" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T02:38:10.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-30T09:28:11.250" Score="4" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I am a brewer in the Indian Ocean Island of Madagascar working on a few recipes to hopefully start a microbrewery here. Our aim is to use as much locally grown fermentables as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We would like to do a witbeer but my South African importer only carries malted wheat, not flake wheat. So my question is if we could work with locally grown whole soft wheat, using our three roller adjustable miller and adding rice hulks to prevent a stuck mash. I hear that wheat is hard to mill but it would allow us a grain bill 50 percent local. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do we need a separate step infusion to gelatinize the raw wheat or is it OK to add directly to mash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS we also had excellent results using cooked red rice as an adjunct, works wonders for foam stability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lMujn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17575" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T17:23:36.360" Title="Using raw wheat in witbeers" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24280" CreationDate="2019-08-30T09:43:23.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like my ginger beer somewhat sweet and carbonated. This means that, at some point after bottling, the fermentation/carbonation process must be stopped. To determine this point, I bottle as normal (in glass bottles), but I also bottle one 500ml plastic soda bottle (an empty PET bottle, like coke, mineral water, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I test this bottle daily to check the pressure simply by squeezing it. When it feels the same as an unopened soda bottle, it is time to stop the carbonation. This is done by pasteurising the glass bottles (to kill the yeast and stop the process).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To pasteurise:&lt;br&gt; &#xA;1. Heat water in a large pot to a temperature of about 85C (185F).&lt;br&gt; &#xA;2. Very important: Remove the pot from the heat source. If you don't the next step will very probably cause the bottles to explode.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. Carefully place up to about 8 bottles in the pot of heated water.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4. Make sure that the water level is above the level of the ginger beer in the bottles.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5. Leave it standing for at least 10 minutes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;6. Remove and place it somewhere where it can cool down naturally.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;7. Refrigerate.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;8. Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're bottling in PET bottles, the easiest way is to cold crash. Place the bottles in a refrigerator. The low temperature will make the yeast go dormant or, at least, slow the process down significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17576" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T09:43:23.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24409" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-30T12:38:10.077" Score="3" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whirlpooling is great for clarifying the beer from hops and other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, this whirlpool step is usually done right after the boiling, by making the wort rotates and leaving it alone for 20 minutes. My concern is that not chilling the wort right away is going to entirely modify the intended hop profile (bitterness and aroma), as the hoppy wort is going to stay above 80 °C for an uncontrolled amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is : is it indeed the right way to do it (can you then explain my &quot;uncontrolled hop profile&quot; worry) or should it actually be done after the wort is chilled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17578" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T16:28:17.127" Title="When should the whirlpool be done?" Tags="|hops|chilling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24411" CreationDate="2019-08-30T14:09:26.233" Score="5" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in Southern Australia, with good rain, close to the sea and have volcanic soil which looks as though it will grow pretty much anything. We have two small brewerys within a 20km, and I'll be talking to them about their needs, but wanted a worldwide input too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had ~10 hectares and an interest in beer, which hops would you plant and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17579" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T19:31:06.737" Title="What are the best variety of hops to grow to support a nascent local micro brew scene" Tags="|hops|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24410" CreationDate="2019-08-30T16:23:43.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cascade.  They are the most fruitful of all, easiest to grow, and everybody knows and loves them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Citra.  The new Cascade of the 21st century that most everybody knows and loves.  Or alternatively, down under by you, maybe you'd prefer Galaxy which is very similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hallertau.  The classic that everybody knows and loves.  Not quite as fruitful, but not bad, and you'll never have a problem selling them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magnum.  High alpha Hallertau.  Used for bittering by everyone everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's about it.  Those are the essentials IMO.  You can make pretty much any beer style with one or more of these versatile hops, never have a problem selling them.  They're not just fads.  They'll keep you profitable for generations to come, guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T16:23:43.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24409" CreationDate="2019-08-30T16:28:17.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is totally up to you.  Whirlpool isn't even necessary.  I've only done it once I think out of 150 batches.  If done hot, you'll get more IBUs, equivalent to as though you had boiled all the hops for about an extra 5-10 minutes.  If done cold, no risk of that.  So, it depends on what you want, and maybe on what recipe you're brewing.  In an IPA, maybe you want more bitterness.  In other styles, maybe not.  But if you plan for it in advance, and use a slightly smaller hop charge or add hops earlier or later in the boil, you can account for all this.  Just more tools and methods available that you can do what you want with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T16:28:17.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24435" CreationDate="2019-08-30T20:22:34.323" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;So for fun I decided to try making wine from Dark Cherry Juice (Knudsen Pure Pressed Dark Cherry). I was surpised to fine the native SG of the juice was 1080. I was almost tempted to just ferment it without adding sugar, but well I like my wine's above 12% so I pitched a cup of sugar into the 1 gallon must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, after about 7 days the primary fermentation has mostly settled down and where the wine seemed devoid of solids while it was fermenting it has dropped nearly a whole quart of lees once it stopped. I am not sure how to deal with this, because well I don't want to waste a whole quart of juice (wine) to the lees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering racking the clear stuff off and then pouring the lees through a funnel filter (300 or 400 guage filter screen), but if anyone else has experience dealing with such a huge less drop and refused to give up on the wine that was in it, I would sincerely like to hear your thoughts on the best way to handle this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T17:44:52.643" Title="Does Dark Cherry Wine from Pure Juice always produce this much lees and how do you handle it?" Tags="|wine|lees|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24372" CreationDate="2019-08-30T20:31:13.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a youtube video where a guy just kept filling his conical fermenter with more wort for a whole year. I think he reported that as the yeast fermented more and more batches that it started producing different flavors. I think he said he got to 25 batches by the end of that year and that the last batch was the last he cared to do on that yeast because it was getting funky. Sorry I don't have a link, but it was either a catalyst or a fermentasaur if anyone is interested in taking a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is yes you can, but if you want to do it right and over a long period of time or huge number of batches, you need to learn to rinse your yeast, otherwise you start introducing old junk into your wort if you are making beer, and even when making wine you are always introducing something that is potentially rotting and could affect it in the beginning before the alcohol starts preserving the mystery ingredient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing it just a few times? No problem at all. It's a fun experiement, but yeast is really cheap. Don't do it to save a few pennies, do it because it's fun to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T20:31:13.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24370" CreationDate="2019-08-30T20:39:18.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bottle is a screw top. Air could very easily be escaping through the threads of the jar top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't rely on visible action to prove fermentation is happening. You need take SG readings to see if there is any sugar, and you need to take a second one a few days later to see if the SG is &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; going down. If it's still going down, then you are fermenting. If it's not then your fermentation may be stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the look of what's inside your jar, you either have a lot of floating solids or you have a healthy Krausen on top which to some degree probably means you are still fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the moisture at the shoulders of that jar look pretty wet to me, which generally also means you are still offgassing CO2, which doesn't always mean you are still fermenting, but is another indicator that you may be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I have seen ferments complete so fast I thought the yeast never activated. Only after checking the SG did I realize oh, it's already finished. I had one do that quite literally overnight. Poof, done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T20:39:18.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24367" CreationDate="2019-08-30T20:59:30.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot produce dangerous levels of methanol through fermentation alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermenting a sugar wash produces next to no methanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermenting grains produces very little methanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermenting fruit produces a little bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the worst of cases, you would need to drink 10 gallons of fermented fruit juice to get enough methanol to have an ill effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you fermented 10 gallons of an apple wine or cider, then distilled it carefully, the methanol foreshot is generally going to be less than 2 oz which at about 24 grams of methanol per oz = 48 grams of methanol AT MOST. Per the National Institute of Health, the median amount of methanol to kill a person is 56.2 grams. So yeah...you'd have to drink 10 gallons of wine to give yourself methanol poisoning. You'll die from quite a few other things first if you tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting fact, they treat methanol overdose with ethanol...That's right. Ethanol dilutes and allow methanol to to be metabalized. That doesn't mean the methanol isn't hurting you, it just makes it less damaging. So yeah, you aren't going to methanol-poison yourself with fermented beverages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastEditorUserId="17594" LastEditDate="2019-09-10T19:45:30.830" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T19:45:30.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24341" CreationDate="2019-08-30T21:41:17.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if they have remained bone dry and away from air, they should be fine. If they've gotten moist or haven't been sealed properly in a right sized container, then they will have slowly gassed off their sulfites and just the starches will remain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T21:41:17.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24334" CreationDate="2019-08-30T21:51:08.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a difference between blending and racking. What we call racking as home winemakers is not the same thing as racking for producers of wine. Producers of wine that blend their wines put the newest casks on the top of a rack, and each row below is older by a given period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the wine at the lowest rung is drawn off for bottling, what was taken from that cask is replaced by wine from the cask above it, which in turn is then replaced with the wine above that so that newer wine is blended with older wine, which produces a fairly consistent product from one year to the next (but not necessarily across spans of years). This is what racking really is, and it's where we get the name for what we do, but what we are doing as home wine makers or craft producers is really just syphoning into an empty container. Racking is a system of incremental blending of this year's wine with last years wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is different than blending wine, which is to take wine of various opposing but complementing characteristics and blending them to produce a combined better product that suits a wider range of palletes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you blend old wine with new, the old wine will have acids broken down and greater longer chains of complex carbohydrates will have developed out of what was not fermented. If you add a new wine to this old wine, it is quite possible the fresh acidity will break the old wine similar to how a roux gravy can be broken, and cause it to precipitate that which was otherwise stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't always happen, it just &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; happen. It also hardly ever improves either wine because the wine's chemistries are different. Old wine and new wine are not so very alike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T21:51:08.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6458" CreationDate="2019-08-30T22:10:01.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can age wines too long, but it depends on the wines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General rule of thumb for white is 3-5 years is optimal, for Reds 6-10 years with some notable exceptions being considered long term investments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For country wines, it's best to treat them all as white wines until you get a good idea of what's optimal. Your wines wont be the same as another person's even if you follow the same recipe, so you need to get comfortable with learning how to age YOUR wines. Do this by only drinking some of your wine each year. If it's not so good yet, then leave it alone for another year. If it starts getting good, then perhaps drink some more of it. If you practice good cellar management techniques you will drink your last bottle of wine just as it starts to decline in delicuousness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now bulk aging and bottle aging are considerably different, however you can combine the bulk aging and bottle aging to figure out the shortest time you want to age. Bottle aging is a bit faster than bulk aging you see, but bulk aging produces great consistency in the aging (meaning you wont have 25 bottles all taste different from one another), however it's slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think bulk aging a long time carries a greater risk of infection due to how carboys are sealed, but it usually benefits a wine to bulk age 3 months to 1 year. So just care for the carboy carefully. Make sure you use a sanitation wipe to keep the top of it clean, and make sure the bung is secure and you should be ok. If the wine is over 12.3% alcohol, chances are it will successfully preserve itself anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T22:10:01.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2019-08-31T11:24:54.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Honey Jack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's called  &lt;strong&gt;honey jack&lt;/strong&gt; when freeze distilled. With a lack of any positive specific name for steam distilled mead, it may in fact be fine use the same term for both results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mead can also be distilled to a brandy or liqueur strength. A version called &quot;honey jack&quot; can be made by partly freezing a quantity of mead and straining the ice out of the liquid (a process known as freeze distillation), in the same way that &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Applejack_(drink)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;applejack&lt;/a&gt; is made from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cider&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cider&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mead&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia: Mead: Varieties&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T11:24:54.720" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-08-31T11:24:54.720" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24059" CreationDate="2019-09-01T00:28:33.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic requirements for the space should have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a good sink with a good drain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oven and stove&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electricity to support however many burners you’ll use at the same&#xA;time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Restroom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you’ll want lots of shelves for buckets, carboys and conical fermenters. Bakers rack can work for this but place a 1/4 sheet of ply wood on the shelves to protect the carboys and buckets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you create enough space to walk comfortably (not shuffling) between shelves or you’ll regret it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastEditorUserId="12050" LastEditDate="2019-09-02T15:21:54.193" LastActivityDate="2019-09-02T15:21:54.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-02T14:38:52.343" Score="2" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wine that's been on primary fermentation for 10 days and still haven't seen any activity in the airlock.&#xA;I think that the reason is the sugar and the yeast needed to be added. I saw in some YouTube channels that in one gallon of Welch's grape juice I should take out two cups of the juice out, then I have to add half a kg of sugar and one teaspoon of yeast to it. In fact, I did not remove the two cups because I'm using a bigger container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So shall I add like 150 grams of sugar and 1/3 of the yeast to it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'm using bread yeast, and my room temperature is 21°C or 70°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-09-03T15:17:43.767" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T15:17:43.767" Title="Can I add yeast and sugar during the first 10 days?" Tags="|yeast|wine|recipe|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24029" CreationDate="2019-09-02T15:00:36.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess, is just the Carbonation Temperature... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have used a counter-pressure bottler once, and didn't have super good results, my filter kept plugging and I didn't get good flow etc... so I am not speaking from great personal experience, but from theory...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to remember about CO2 is that it is a gas, and in water, gasses have a solubility curve with a negative slope... (higher on the left going down to the right) &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEcju.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEcju.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image stolen from: https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/47519/non-linear-solubility-trend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so the colder you go in liquid phase the more CO2 it holds... and the less you lose when bottling and handling freshly opened beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so if you are bottling at 50f and consuming at 35f there is less CO2 to come out of solution to produce bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3773" LastActivityDate="2019-09-02T15:00:36.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24423" CreationDate="2019-09-02T15:32:35.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the reason for removing juice rather than getting a larger container is to protect the sanitary environment of the juice bottle. If you start transferring juice into a new container, you are effectively undoing that. In this case you really need the ability to sanitize your bottles and equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding letting your juice stand for 10 days before adding sugar and yeast, well...at this point is like rolling the dice. It may be infected it may not be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it’s such a small amount, I would go buy a new bottle of juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can give yourself food poisoning if the wrong bug gets a hold of your juice. You are usually safe, but food poisoning IS a real possibility when you haven’t taken the proper precautions (such as sanitary conditions, and supporting an active fermentation). Letting exposed juice sit around doing nothing adds some risk that something will go wrong. I am making these numbers up, but let’s say 9 times out of 10 you’ll be fine. It’s the 1 time out of 10 that you worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-09-02T15:32:35.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-02T19:46:39.827" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will a liquid dip tube with wings fit any corny keg or are some made to use wingless tubes only?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17589" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T16:45:27.713" Title="Ball Lock Corny Liquid dip tube" Tags="|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24426" CreationDate="2019-09-03T07:36:12.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Winged dip tubes aren’t common - the vast majority of Corgy ‘Cornelius’ kegs liquid dip/sip tubes don’t have wings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will come down to two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The size of the inlet hole in the liquid pin or ball locked socked. I.e if this has been adapted for wings on the dip tube or not. To my knowledge no Corgy keys are adapted for wings here. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Whether the wings are collapsible - i.e. whether the wings are pivoted around a pin in the tube and you are able to collapse them for entry to the keg. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve never seen (1) - in the case of (2) I’ve only ever seen this once and it was a custom thing. So if you already have a dip tube that you can test fits a Corgy keg but the wings and aren’t collapsible then I very much doubt you’ll find a Corgy that fits it. If however the wings are collapsible so that they pose no barrier for the dip tube entry - then all should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Based on the comment below I believe wings refers to the threads at the top of the dipstick. In the case both ball and pin lock Corgy kegs will use the exact same dip tube. The only difference between ball and pin lock kegs is the mount and the connector. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastEditorUserId="16485" LastEditDate="2019-09-03T13:04:40.677" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T13:04:40.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24407" CreationDate="2019-09-03T17:23:36.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Raw wheat is just all starches and proteins. Malted wheat consists of the same starches, already sugars due to the malting, proteins and all enzymes needed to convert starches to sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you do not need to gelatinize the raw wheat (flour) separately, as you would need to do with rice or corn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you will need to experiment with a step mash at 45° C and 55° C, to help dissolve beta-glucans and large proteins, before you increase the temperature to the conversion temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T17:23:36.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7560" CreationDate="2019-09-03T21:15:49.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 2014, I brewed an Olde Ale added Edinburgh yeast and Brett C. WLP645. Brewed another Olde Ale recently and did a 100% Brett fermentation with WLP645. Both had bandaid flavor which I have never had in any other beers. So my conclusion is Brett C. is the cause of my bandaid flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17595" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-09-04T14:06:04.753" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T14:06:04.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13400" CreationDate="2019-09-03T21:24:35.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this fellow's site, just throw the plums in a bucket and wait, agitate after a month to shake out the pits, wait a bit more, then run the plum wine through your still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://slivovice.org/slivovice.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://slivovice.org/slivovice.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Na zdraví!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T21:24:35.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24109" CreationDate="2019-09-03T23:47:34.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, almost all of my batches have been around 5 gallons, and I use two packets of dry yeast, usually a Lalvin variety.  I've made a couple 3-gallon batches, where I've used one packet of yeast and half the nutrients I use in my 5-gallon batches.  If I were to make a one-gallon batch, I might use a half-packet of Lalvin yeast, just scaling things down.  As others have noted, it's often best to read the labels too.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T23:47:34.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24426" CreationDate="2019-09-04T16:45:27.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Image courtesy of: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewing.org/24-Curved-5-gallon-Soda-Keg-Liquid-Dip-Tube-With-Ears-Used-_p_6478.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewing.org/24-Curved-5-gallon-Soda-Keg-Liquid-Dip-Tube-With-Ears-Used-_p_6478.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to help clarify for anyone looking at this post:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5wXX9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5wXX9.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13721" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T16:45:27.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24254" CreationDate="2019-09-04T17:27:16.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;h3&gt;The basics: just mix it up.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made a few 5-gallon batches of mead, 30-some by this point.  When mixing together my must at the start of a batch, I used to use just a big steel spoon to stir the heck out of the must and make sure I worked in a lot of air and got things nice and frothy.  Nowadays I use a regular immersion blender, which has the added benefit of making it easier to ensure I've gotten the thick honey fully mixed into the thinner water.  This mixing process has always been enough to oxygenate the must for happy yeasties.  Then I add any nutrients, pitch the yeast, get my original gravity readings, and lock down the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The reasons why&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ciaran Haines mentions that oxygen can lead to vinegar.  That's &lt;em&gt;partly&lt;/em&gt; right, and sustained oxygenation is an integral part of vinegar and kombucha production.  More specifically, you want oxygen at the start of your fermentation process, because the yeast use it in the initial growth spurt within the mash or must, as they're getting the ferment going.  Past there, if you're shooting for mead, wine, beer, or something similar, you generally want to avoid oxygen, which is why fermentation rigs always have an air seal with some kind of one-way valve to let out the off-gassed CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; (the yeast farts).  The reason why you don't want oxygen later in the process is that it can cause chemical changes that alter the flavor, and it also provides respiration possibilities for non-yeast microbes, which can then digest the alcohol into acetic acid (vinegar) or just otherwise spoil your batch.  Keeping the oxygen out during later fermentation and aging is such a big deal that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s?k=wine+gas&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;folks even sell cartridges of argon and other inert gases&lt;/a&gt; to flush out any air from opened containers and protect the precious hooch from oxygen.  I've never used such things myself, but then wine is much more acidic and oxygen-reactive than mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't overthink it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't over-worry it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't throw in weird chemical additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just mix your must really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T17:27:16.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24413" CreationDate="2019-09-04T17:44:52.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made mead and cherry melomel (mead with cherry juice and/or pulp in the fermentation).  The melomel does indeed leave behind a lot of lees, as you note -- I suspect that the chemical changes during fermentation cause a certain amount of precipitation from the cherry juice.  I've tried straining the lees, but that has always resulted in off-flavors for me, so I've learned to just accept a higher ratio of sludge when it comes to cherry brews.  Your mileage may vary, naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative to straining, and with legalities depending very much on your geographical situation, do you know anybody with a still?  That's one way to get something tasty out of the lees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T17:44:52.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24109" CreationDate="2019-09-05T02:46:13.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast double in population about once per 100 minutes. You can pitch 1/4 tsp of yeast into a sterile 100 gallon batch and it will eventually grow in population to start doing something useful, however you are running a huge risk that something else may make it&#xA;in and take root in the must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know how sometimes it take 2 or three days before your airlock starts to become active even though you can see yeast growth occurring? That is because the batch could in theory have benefitted from a larger starting population.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You’d have to really try to over pitch a batch to the point that it would hurt your recipe. Don’t pinch pennies when it comes to to yeast. Spend the money and pitch at a minimum what the recipe has called for. Doubling or tripling the yeast only assure that the population reaches critical mass much sooner and that is usually a true and real benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just started some apple wine a few days ago using raw unfiltered unpasteurized apple cider from the local cider mill. Many of the apples are likely to be windfalls. I wanted some assurance that my chosen yeast were given the greatest advantage. I used two packets of yeast, and I was blessed with a quick start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is, your batches are very small so I wouldn’t worry about it, but it won’t hurt to double the yeast along with the recipe and it will usually help. Meads usually get a slow start and an large starting population will get it going faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T02:46:13.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-05T03:08:21.730" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a batch of ginger beer and brewing it hard at 5 and a half gallons. The fault came when I accidentally added a half-gallon of water with One Step in it to the batch before fermenting. It was originally a 1 gallon before I cleaned all my stuff, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I totally forgot I had it in it. Should I be concerned? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem to be stopping the fermentation and it is going very well.  To add, before I added the half I filled it the rest of the way making it a gallon, not realizing what I had done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17598" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2019-09-05T16:57:57.283" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T17:02:20.333" Title="Accidently added One Step sanitizer to my brew batch! Am I good or will I die?" Tags="|ginger-beer|sanitizer|batch-size|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24437" CreationDate="2019-09-05T03:21:32.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just looked up the SDS sheet on it, and the ECOCleansers website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ecocleansers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ecologiccleansers.com/products/one-step/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the principle sanitizing function is to create hydrogen peroxide, and the minerals left behind are typical levels found in many tap waters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t want to say yes it’s safe, but there is your basic information about the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T03:21:32.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24387" CreationDate="2019-09-05T14:49:18.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: this is a complex issue and only a few papers on the subject have been published, but the long and short of it is that wort composition and yeast genetics, not fermentation temperature, are the key factor in the level at which volatile spicy phenols are formed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details: After consulting with a brewing scientist (yes, PhD and everything) and reading my way through a bunch of research papers he gave me, I have learned that phenol formation is not significantly dependent on fermentation temperature, but &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be dependent on mash temperatures. The ferulic acid rest used in Weizen brewing is the most common example, but similar rests that enhance the levels of other precursors to different phenols exist. These precursors are generally decarboxylated in the boil, after which the yeast genetics are the deciding factor in whether or not volatile phenols are actually formed. Meaning: a proper boil is also essential to spicy phenol formation in Belgian beers, although you need one anyway in order to brew a decent beer, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Classic Belgian yeast strains have a marked proclivity for the formation of the volatile phenols that are so characteristic for the style, and require little help in this department. A single infusion mash at normal mashing temperatures is enough to provide them with everything they need in the phenol formation department. (Noting that most Belgian ales are mashed low because a high fermentability wort is vital for these big beers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The perceived temperature dependence in phenol formation stems from the fact that higher fermentation temperatures, especially with classic Belgian strains, may lead to the formation of significant levels of higher alcohols which are partially or entirely converted into fruity esters, all of which masks the phenols to some degree. Fermenting cool inhibits the formation of other flavors that may help mask the phenols so they come through more prominently on the palate. However, the levels of spicy volatile phenols is pretty much the same throughout the entire fermentation temperature range appropriate for the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T14:49:18.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-05T14:56:07.077" Score="2" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;For various reasons I have done a series of test fermentations with various types of ginger powder in the mix. The control was a solution of sugar in water (OG 1.040) with some tartaric acid, boiled for 20 minutes, then cooled, aerated and fermented with a bit of yeast nutrient and some rebate white wine yeast. Other versions were the same but had additions of various ginger powders added but were otherwise the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The versions with the ginger powder came out clear and lightly straw colored. Obviously the ginger powder has acted as a flocculant somehow, which I did not expect, but okay. However, the control came out white (not yellowish) and opaque, almost like a suspension of milk in water. The control tasted pretty much as expected (a fermented sugar wash) and so did the others with the addition of hot ginger flavors from the powder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast had settled out (there was a clear deposit at the bottom) and the solution is far too light (white) in color to make me think &quot;yeast&quot;. So it's got to be something else that makes this control solution white and opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what could that be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-09-07T02:10:05.123" Title="Why is a fermented sugar wash white and opaque?" Tags="|fermentation|sugar|clarity|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24437" CreationDate="2019-09-05T17:02:20.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onestepsani.com/faq.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the FAQ for One Step&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As answered by @Escoce, once it is used it should be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydrogen peroxide will decompose into water and oxygen. Maybe your ginger beer yeast gets a boost from the extra oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T17:02:20.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-05T19:10:52.110" Score="3" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does one go about making a beer or wine with a graham cracker taste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking cracked wheat berries and sweetened with honey, but I also heard hefty&#xA;Amounts of wheat germ and wheat bran are good starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone with some experience getting that particular flavor without resorting to extracts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T13:41:05.413" Title="Graham cracker beer or wine" Tags="|beer|techniques|all-grain|mash|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24442" CreationDate="2019-09-05T23:03:21.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I have never eaten a graham cracker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bakingamoment.com/homemade-graham-crackers-recipe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this recipe for Graham Crackers&lt;/a&gt;, a &quot;graham cracker taste&quot; would essentially be a wholemeal biscuit/cookie flavour, with a brown-sugar accent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the toasty/bready flavours, I would use a base of 5% biscuit malt and 5% crystal to compliment a good base-malt like Maris Otter - known for having a &quot;biscuit like&quot; character.  This would give an English Bitter style of beer (if hopped with restraint, say 35 IBU).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For brown sugar flavours, maybe a &lt;em&gt;very small&lt;/em&gt; amount of molasses, say 100ml. Or of course you could just use a greater quantity brown sugar, golden syrup, treacle, etc., but this will also increase the alcohol level of the beer significantly.  Honey could be added in the last stages of fermentation (or perhaps as priming sugar for bottling), but it does not impart a lot of &quot;honey flavour&quot; when fermented out.  I have found that wheat beers made with chamomile tea flowers (specifically dried German Chamomile flower-heads), impart floral, honey*-like* aromas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up to 20% Torrified Wheat could be incorporated into the recipe, but I don't think wheat bran would be a good idea since it contains relatively high concentrations of fats and oils which would be detrimental to the beer flavour, and reduce foam stability in the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you could go for a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://breakingbrews.com/stylin-profilin-what-is-a-pastry-stout/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pastry Stout&lt;/a&gt;&quot; style beer, and use actual graham crackers...  if you find big sweet stouts delicious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T23:03:21.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24444" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-06T01:54:04.760" Score="2" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fermented some 5 gallon mead from SG 1.146 to FG 1.058, but two calculators ([1], [2]) said the ABV was 11.7% - 11.9%. The yeast I used (Lalvin K1-V116 [3]) is rated up to 18% (&quot;Alcohol tolerance up to 18%&quot;). There were 30+ seconds between bubbles in the airlock (~47s). It was a constant temperature of 21C (70F) for about 5 weeks. Why is the ABV so low (and the FG so high)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.meadmakr.com/abv-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.meadmakr.com/abv-calculator/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;https://gotmead.com/blog/the-mead-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://gotmead.com/blog/the-mead-calculator/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;[3] &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en/united-states/product-details/lalvin-icv-k1-v1116/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en/united-states/product-details/lalvin-icv-k1-v1116/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17375" LastEditorUserId="17375" LastEditDate="2019-09-06T02:11:19.310" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T13:38:26.883" Title="Why didn't my ABV reach the yeast's limits?" Tags="|yeast|mead|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24444" CreationDate="2019-09-06T03:16:32.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Patience.  You rushed it.  Give it 5 months.  Then it will be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T03:16:32.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24442" CreationDate="2019-09-06T03:22:10.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gambrinus Honey Malt, maybe about 5-10% of the total grist, plus 50% wheat (either malt or not, or both), should get you really close, based on experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No more loquaciousness required.  Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T03:22:10.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4989" CreationDate="2019-09-06T18:05:53.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rehydrate your yeast separately before pitching. Match temperatures before you pitch. Refer to instructions on the back of Lalvin packet. Temperature shocking the yeast could kill some of them or cause them to hibernate, leaving wild yeast and bacteria to take over and out-compete.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitize all your jars. You boiled the water, but did you sanitize the jar and airlock? That could introduce infection and wild bacteria.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintain a temperature of 70F/21C during fermentation. Hot fermentation produces bad flavors. (&amp;quot;If must is fermented at too high a temperature, acetobacter will overwhelm the yeast naturally occurring on the grapes.&amp;quot; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid#Oxidative_fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No need to scrape dross off honey.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vinegar is ascetic acid, produced by bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid#Biochemistry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid#Biochemistry&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid#Oxidative_fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid#Oxidative_fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetic acid is produced and excreted by acetic acid bacteria, notably the genus Acetobacter and Clostridium acetobutylicum. These bacteria are found universally in foodstuffs, water, and soil, and acetic acid is produced naturally as fruits and other foods spoil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most of human history, acetic acid bacteria of the genus Acetobacter have made acetic acid, in the form of vinegar. Given sufficient oxygen, these bacteria can produce vinegar from a variety of alcoholic foodstuffs. Commonly used feeds include apple cider, wine, and fermented grain, malt, rice, or potato mashes. A dilute alcohol solution inoculated with Acetobacter and kept in a warm, airy place will become vinegar over the course of a few months. Industrial vinegar-making methods accelerate this process by improving the supply of oxygen to the bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17375" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T19:08:05.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24444" CreationDate="2019-09-06T21:39:37.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check SG again in a week and see if it’s changed. If it has changed at all, it’s till fermenting. If it has actually stopped or if you are impatient, toss in some ec1118 to finish the job. k1v-1116 has actually already done everything it’s going to do taste and body wise to your wine so it’s not that important that it’s the one that finishes the job. It does most of its magic in the 1st 5 to 8% of abv.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T21:39:37.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24444" CreationDate="2019-09-06T22:16:29.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;h3&gt;The basics&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that your must / early mead simply doesn't have enough nutrients for the yeast to continue going gangbusters.  When I say &quot;nutrients&quot; here, that includes more than just the sugars in the must -- yeast also need other things in their food in order to perform well, things like bio-available nitrogen, vitamins, and the like.  When yeast run out of nutrients, they slow down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt; for you: When you mixed up your must, did you include any yeast nutrients?  If so, what kinds, and in what amounts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Anecdote&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my initial recipes years ago, I used only a teaspoon of Wyeast yeast nutrient and two teaspoons of diammonium phosphate (DAP).  Those batches took a while, and I thought that was just the way mead worked.  Then I read around a bit, and found out that I could safely add more nutrients to speed things up, so for most of my batches since then, I've tripled the amounts -- one tablespoon of Wyeast yeast nutrient and two tablespoons of DAP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two 5-gallon batches halfway finished right now.  Out of curiosity, I decided to try scaling back on the nutrients as part of a controlled experiment in flavor, comparing these two batches (using the same basic clover honey, but each batch with a different yeast, Lalvin K1V-1116 and EC-1118) against my usual results.  Both batches went quickly for a few weeks, and then effectively stalled at around a specific gravity (SG) of 1.060 -- but they're still fermenting, just veeeeerrrrrrrry sloooooowwwwwwly (about 0.001 SG points a week).  Three months later, after confirming the speed of fermentation, I got impatient, and I just re-racked the one of them and added some yeast energizer to kick it up a notch and (hopefully) finish some time this year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Possible remedy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it looks like your yeast have simply run out of everything but the sugars, it might make sense to think about giving them a dose of additional nutrients.  From reading a few labels, I've found that products labeled specifically as &quot;yeast energizers&quot; will sometimes mention &quot;stuck fermentation&quot;, which is what I've got with my two batches, and what it sounds like you've run into.  Have a look at those, read the directions, and let us know if you try any -- and how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T22:16:29.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24440" CreationDate="2019-09-07T02:10:05.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am guessing it’s the tartaric acid has an ion charge that holds it in suspension and that something about the ginger root was the flocculant that bound with it allowed it to drop out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-09-07T02:10:05.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4989" CreationDate="2019-09-07T03:12:14.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer to a question like this is to ask the question, when was the last time you tasted vinegar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vinegar is a lot harder to make accidentally than you think. I mean yes it’s one way to spoil a wine and being extraordinarily careless will do it, but you generally have to try to make vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are better than the wine is young and it had more of a rocket fuel /&#xA;Nail polish remover flavor. Now that is a defect that is easily solved and that simply giving it time to mellow and age. Those sharp edges will smooth out a lot in 6 months and even better over a year or two. Honey makes great flavor in wine or melomel in this case, but only if you are willing to let it get smooth over time. Sometimes it just takes time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-09-07T03:12:14.840" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4989" CreationDate="2019-09-07T15:29:40.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Infection mixed with oxygenation during fermentation makes for vinegar.  What does your cleaning and sanitation process consist of on the cold side? Do you use a spoon rest? What are you fermenting in? What do you use for an airlock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17604" LastActivityDate="2019-09-07T15:29:40.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24454" CreationDate="2019-09-07T18:39:29.727" Score="1" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest time consumers I have on bottling day is cooling down the sugar to room temperature. So I have been thinking about sanitizing a small container the day before bottling, dissolve the sugar there, and seal the container.&#xA;The solution should cool overnight and be ready to add to the bottling bucket the next day.  Is this wise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on that note, I was thinking about doing the same for the gelatin I use to clear my beer, so once again, is this wise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-09-08T14:03:09.347" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T07:05:50.203" Title="Is it wise to dissolve priming sugar or gelatin in water the day before adding it to the beer?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|priming|priming-sugar|gelatin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24453" CreationDate="2019-09-08T01:55:14.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No need to cool it down.  I don't.  Beer turns out good anyway.  Yeast doesn't die because it's such a small volume of hot liquid in a much larger volume of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-09-08T01:55:14.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24453" CreationDate="2019-09-08T05:13:49.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a bain marie full of ice to cool your priming sugar syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-09-08T05:13:49.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24468" CreationDate="2019-09-08T05:25:10.617" Score="1" ViewCount="3291" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question says it all. I am sure they are great for wines that will be consumed young, but what about for wines you are going to store for longer periods of time? Months, years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T15:50:17.520" Title="How do you feel about Swing Top wine bottles?" Tags="|bottling|cider|wine|mead|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-08T05:52:22.553" Score="3" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this question challenges a lot Brewers assumption that yeast needs oxygen to reproduce. It just plain doesn’t. Yeast does use oxygen, but it’s a mighty and inaccurate over simplification to say it has anything to do with reproduction. Please don’t answer that I am wrong. There is plenty of scientific studies (including in beverage studies) that you can read to learn about how yeast do not respire when in the presence of sugar, and how they multiply just as well in anaerobic environments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What yeast do use oxygen for is to produce sterols (basically fat) to more easily take in sugar and in turn excrete alcohol. It has been suggested that adding yeast hulls at the beginning of a ferment will supply the yeast with the sterols they need. This is sometimes done to get stuck fermentation’s going again, because often they get stuck because the yeast have used up all their sterols. Resupplying sterols gets them going again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am wondering what results people ha e had supplying yeast hulls at the beginning of a ferment rather than aerating or oxygenating their brews. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see some fruit produce some really off flavors when allowed to oxidize, most notably strawberry and watermelon. I want to see if yeast Hull supplication can produce a better product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastEditorUserId="419" LastEditDate="2019-09-09T13:28:24.330" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T17:47:50.740" Title="has anyone experimented with using yeast hulls to supply sterols rather than oxygenating/airating their beer/wine/mead must or wort?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24456" CreationDate="2019-09-08T12:29:04.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gaskets will last for 10 years or more in my experience, with no loss of pressure or quality, assuming you don't start with terribly degraded gaskets already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-09-08T12:29:04.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24029" CreationDate="2019-09-08T13:51:36.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oils in the lime zest would likely kill the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am personally not very familiar with counter-pressure filling bottles.  Personally I only carbonate naturally in the bottle.  It might be something to consider on a future batch.  It's well suited to hefeweizens where you want a tad of yeast haze in there anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-09-08T13:51:36.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5085" CreationDate="2019-09-08T16:17:28.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s possible if the beer is pasteurized &#xA;If not it will sour it from the lacto &#xA;For example if I siphon bud light half barrel to a 5 gall&#xA;Keg then add smoked malt and pumpkin spice &#xA;It’s now pumpking at 1/5 price and much more crushable &#xA;Same is true for making really hoppy citra ale &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17606" LastActivityDate="2019-09-08T16:17:28.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-08T17:40:57.240" Score="1" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a hobbyist who produces at least 5 gallons a week of wine, what filtering system do you recommend? I am also looking at transfer pumps as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am getting older and have torn rotator cuffs and want to see if I can avoiding lifting full carboys to shoulder height from now on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have never had a powered filtering system before and although I have read lots of reviews for several offerings, I would really like to hear about what people think of the various filtering tools you have used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-17T18:34:42.077" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T15:23:15.760" Title="What is the best wine filtering system?" Tags="|equipment|cider|techniques|wine|filtering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24453" CreationDate="2019-09-09T07:05:50.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing you propose to do is it bad, i.e you won't harm your beer by adding the hot sugar solution and or adding the Gelatine at the same time. So don't worry about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However; if your goal was to clarify the beer (adding gelatine) then the method you propose isn't efficient and you may undo the clarification process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GELATINE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best time to add the gelatin is right before you start the cold crash cycle, some people choose to cold crash it right down quickly others a stepped approach. Either way the gelatin is going to be most effective if added before the cooling cycle and allowed to sit for no less than a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PRIMING SUGAR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a hot priming sugar solution won't harm the beer (not in small quantities) but, if added to a cold solution and or relatively cold given the temperature differences it will cause a new haze to form in the liquid, the same way mist does when the cold ocean air meets warm land. Yes it does go away - but I have found it returns when you eventually cool the beer for drinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If clarification wasn't a goal for you - I say go right ahead and just add everything onetime hot or cold - but because it appears to be (given the Gelatine use) you want to be a little gentler in inducing any shock to the solution. If you don't have temp controlled fermentation to be able to cold crash then allow priming solution to cool as you have done previously before adding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T07:05:50.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24456" CreationDate="2019-09-09T13:35:15.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no data on this issue.  But it seems from other posts you are really cranking out the wine production.  I'd encourage you to set aside 10% of your bottles in the next few batches to put in swing tops.  Then let us know 4, 8, 12months down the road how the wine is holding up against some traditionally corked bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T13:35:15.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24444" CreationDate="2019-09-09T13:38:26.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might also want to try to degas the wine.  Build up of soluble CO2 great slows yeast performance. Also if your sample wasn't adequately degassed and you used a hydrometer that will give an articially high reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with other posts regarding: Time, Nutrients and additional yeast to finish up.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'd start with degassing though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T13:38:26.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24442" CreationDate="2019-09-09T13:41:05.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Floor Malted Bohemian Pils malt from Weyermann has a huge graham cracker thing going for it when used in a straight Pilsner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/wey-fm-bohemian-pilsner-25kg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/wey-fm-bohemian-pilsner-25kg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T13:41:05.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24467" CreationDate="2019-09-09T21:51:26.880" Score="4" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first brew, so I kinda look at it as a rite of passage, but I had 5 gallons of brown ale fermenting in a 6.5g carboy. The airlock was super active for the first 16-18 hours. Soon after that I came into the closet I was fermenting in to an explosion. Needless to say the carpets ruined in there with a gallon or so of wort and hops spread on my carpet, clothes, and walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I moved the ale to another cool location and used a sanitized blow off setup (like I should've from the start if I wasn't such a noob) and it was still active, bubbles every couple of seconds for the rest of that day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was 3 days ago and it seems it has quieted down substantially. Yesterday I observed 2 or 3 bubbles. Wasn't watching it closely but just poking my head into the room. Haven't had much time to watch today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this guy ruined?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is still okay do I really need to wait the 2 weeks for when the kit said it would be ready or should I read the lack of activity as my sign it is done doing what it will do?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anything I could do in the current state to make things better for this batch?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think regardless of what happens I'm going to try this again, if nothing else to prove I can do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help, in advanced!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17610" LastEditorUserId="17610" LastEditDate="2019-09-09T21:57:44.567" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T01:34:41.600" Title="Ale Popped the Bung" Tags="|fermentation|first-time-brewer|extract-brewing|first-time|brown-ale|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24466" CreationDate="2019-09-10T00:59:31.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from your carpet, Everything Is Ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very normal during the active fermentation stage that a large amount of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewswag.com/products/high-krausen-homebrew-t-shirt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vigorous yeast comes to the top of the brew&lt;/a&gt;.  If the amount of beer enables the foam to reach the top of the vessel (a carboy in this case), it will be pushed out through the air-lock.  The airlock may also become clogged with yeast, bits of hops, etc. and cause a build-up of carbon-dioxide gas pressure which will shoot out the airlock, bung etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different yeast strains behave differently in this manner.  For example, wheat beer yeast strains for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/styles/89/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hefeweizen style&lt;/a&gt; beers are notorious for this.  Generally with these you don't bother with a &quot;normal&quot; air-lock, and only use a blow-off tube as you describe.  The temperature of the beer also directly effects how fast the fermentation proceeds, generally warmer is faster (but not necessarily better!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of knowing when your beer is ready - generally the procedure is to measure the Specific Gravity (concentration of sugar) before fermentation, and then again when you believe fermentation is complete with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydrometer&lt;/a&gt;.  The generally accepted guide is that the fermentation is complete when the result is around the expected final gravity, and there has been no change in the final gravity measurement for 3 days.  There are some caveats though.  If the ambient temperature gets too cold for the yeast, fermentation will get very slow (but not stop), and the beer may appear finished, but then when the yeast warms-up again fermentation proceeds.  On high gravity beers, the yeast may stop before the expected final gravity too (for various reasons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very important to get the final gravity stage/reading correct when bottling into glass vessels, because if fermentation is incomplete (but then re-starts), the gas pressure can cause the bottles to explode resulting in serious injuries.  If you are &quot;bottling&quot; into kegs or PET plastic bottles the danger from explosions is not so severe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have not made gravity readings, I would wait 2 weeks just to be sure.  Even once the very active &quot;primary&quot; fermentation stage is complete, there are still changes happening in your beer.  The yeast is going dormant in the vessel, dropping out of suspension, and re-processing some un-tasty fermentation by-products.  Given the extra-vigorous initial fermentation, it would probably be ready earlier than 2 weeks, but I'm erring on the side of caution based on the available information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2019-09-10T01:34:41.600" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T01:34:41.600" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24456" CreationDate="2019-09-10T15:50:17.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I made a batch of blackberry blossom mead years ago that took FOREVER to finish fermenting, and after it had been apparently stable for some time, I wound up getting impatient and bottling it when it still had a smidge more of residual sugars than I generally go for.  I've always used 1L swing-top bottles, and that time was no different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roughly half the bottles were part of a new box of EZ Cap bottles (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/ez-cap-flip-top-beer-bottles-32-oz-clear-case-12.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;), and half were essentially the same bottles scavenged from store-bought beverages (beer and cider) -- all assiduously cleaned, naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast forward three years, and I had the most bee&lt;strong&gt;yoo&lt;/strong&gt;​tiful blackberry-scented champagne.  None were flat, and none were bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're making flat wine, I can't imagine that the bottles would give you any grief, barring any quality problems with the bottles themselves (like bad or loose spring-tops, as mentioned by dmtaylor in the comments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T15:50:17.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-10T18:48:05.330" Score="4" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;So what do you feel is the best way to manage batch sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally make oversize batches and try to fit it in the largest carboy I have. For subsequent rackings, I will size the carboy down a size and catch any extra into the most closely sized small carboy I have that will be filled. Anything that doesn't fit into that becomes a taste test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer doing this to topping off with water at each racking. I would rather have a litte extra to hold off to the side for sampling and for topping off at a later date if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few or several of each 7, 6.5, 6, 5, 3 and 1 gallons, and for my &quot;make up&quot; or extra, I have 1 gallons, 3 liters, half gallons and quart jars (kambucha jars)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 5 gallon carboys are the target finishing size of most of my batches, the larger carboys are for primary and secondary active fermentations. and the 3 gallons and 1 gallons either being for split batches or experimental batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-02-08T22:26:45.837" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T22:26:45.837" Title="Batch Management - How do you manage your batches for container volume?" Tags="|equipment|wine|mead|carboy|batch-size|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="611" CreationDate="2019-09-10T18:52:25.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apples are covered with yeast, and being ground up to make cider really gets that yeast mixed in well. The problem with going wild with cider is that sometimes bruised or wind falls are often also included which improves the flavor of the raw cider, but means some of the apples may have been infected with acetobactor, in which case as the alcohol is being produced by yeast, the acetobactor is just taking the slowly served thank you very much ethanol and turning it into vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T18:52:25.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24476" CreationDate="2019-09-10T21:20:48.967" Score="2" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a beer tower whose lines need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I am having great trouble actually pulling the old lines out of the tower. They seem to be attached to some metal disks, which I can neither pull back through the tower, nor push through past the point where the faucets are attached. I can wiggle them around, but I can not actually dislodge them. The lines are stuck, dangling from the main body of the tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DH0BK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DH0BK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;partially disassembled beer tower&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick to pulling the lines out of a tap like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tower is a few years old, originally from Krome Dispense. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qjqYd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fully assembled, the tower looks like this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13932" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T21:21:12.827" Title="How to disassemble a Krome Dispense beer tower?" Tags="|keg|kegerator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24469" CreationDate="2019-09-11T18:25:48.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple years ago, I was experimenting with a melomel recipe and got two small 3-gallon plastic fermenters.  After the initial fermentation was done, I racked those into 1-gallon glass jugs that I'd kept from store-bought (unfermented) cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I generally start my mead batches at around 5-6 gallons in the fermenter.  I use plastic big-bucket style fermenters, as they're easier to get into for cleaning purposes, and the initial fermenting can be much messier than later stages.  Then I rack into 5-gallon glass carboys.  If I have too much mead, the extra becomes what I sample and taste.  If there's not enough to fill the carboy, I don't backfill with water.  Never have, never occurred to me to do so, and I've never yet had a batch go funny on me.  But then again this is mead, and my ABVs have been 13%-16%.  Other brews might require that there be less headspace in the carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was recently gifted two larger 6-gallon carboys, so I might make slightly larger batches to go in those two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T18:25:48.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24471" CreationDate="2019-09-11T19:41:36.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have any direct knowledge, but you might find something useful by perusing the product list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://kromedispense.com/KromeDispense.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://kromedispense.com/KromeDispense.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, page 61 has pictures of a few different line configurations, which might help you figure out what's going on with yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option beyond reading is to chat with a company representative.  In the course of poking around, I happened upon Krome's &lt;a href=&quot;https://us.kromedispense.com/knowledge-base/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Knowledge Base page&lt;/a&gt;, where a chat window appears in the lower right.  I suspect they could help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T19:41:36.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24475" CreationDate="2019-09-11T01:41:54.143" Score="5" ViewCount="710" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife discovered that the mead we are brewing smells a bit off, and a book we have on the topic suggest we may not have applied enough micronutrient. Any suggestions on getting more in? We have brewed for only a week and this is our first batch if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17614" OwnerDisplayName="user9812" LastEditorUserId="17594" LastEditDate="2019-09-15T13:23:26.310" LastActivityDate="2019-09-15T13:23:26.310" Title="How does one apply nutrient to a mead brew" Tags="|mead|brewing|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24474" CreationDate="2019-09-13T12:43:59.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common nutrients for mead making, DAP and Fermaid-K or -O, come in powder form.  Adding a tsp of each to a 5-gallon batch of mead and mixing well is all it takes. If you see the nutrient doesn't dissolve well you can pre mix it with a little clean water (1/4cup) before adding it in.   A normal nutrient regimen is to add small amounts of nutrients (with mixing) on day 1, 3, and 5.  Then let it ferment along on its own.  Occasional mixing at day 10 or 13 will help to degas the mead.  Degassing the mead prevents dissolved CO2 from slowing the yeast. (Similar issue to the dude that left the comment about open vs. closed fermentation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T12:43:59.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24471" CreationDate="2019-09-13T12:52:31.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to buy a special tool that goes into those two half circles.  I don't see it in the tool list on pg 82/83 of the PDF that Eirikr posted.  I'd call KromeDispense and ask them.  OR email customer service with the tower part# if to you have it.  I am sure they'd help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are handy or have a friend that does metal work they could probably make a tool that would work for you.  Splitting some metal rod and shaping two tips with the right distance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T12:52:31.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24477" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-13T13:00:29.633" Score="6" ViewCount="2759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been thinking of getting canning equipment for my homebrew set up to make it easier to share beer ( no worries about collecting my swing top bottles down the line). The only question I could find relating to carbonation methods for canned beer was this question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/24283/beer-bottle-vs-can-head-space-carbonation-and-conditioning&quot;&gt;Beer Bottle vs. Can Head Space, Carbonation, and Conditioning&lt;/a&gt;. I would prefer to &quot;can condition&quot; for convenience, though I do have a keg setup to force carbonate prior to canning. My question is, are there any dangers to naturally carbonating in a can?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastEditorUserId="16438" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T14:32:09.087" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T14:32:09.087" Title="Is it Safe to Carbonate Beer in a Can?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|safety|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24477" CreationDate="2019-09-13T13:28:18.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I am not so sure. They could explode if you aren’t careful. Sometimes just dropping a commercially canned beer or soda causes a rocket, so at least the cans that the commercial world use are about as lightweight as one can go under very controlled circumstances. I am not sure you have the ability to maintain that tight level of control in the home setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T13:28:18.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24477" CreationDate="2019-09-13T16:08:33.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The risks are about the same as with any bottle or other container: &lt;strong&gt;over carbonation.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is measuring the amount of sugar accurately to not over carbonate and risk explosion.  You have to make sure the beer as fermented completely as well, before conditionning, to avoid excess CO2.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Head space is also crucial, since cans do not have the same shape as bottles, you have to calculate it accordingly.  Not enough head space can lead to over carbonation and too much space will lead your beer under carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T16:08:33.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24474" CreationDate="2019-09-13T17:43:26.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a counterpoint, I've done mead batches with zero nutrients, and batches with different levels of nutrients, with success each time.  So far I've only used diammonium phosphate (DAP) and Wyeast yeast nutrient in the primary.  I've never done additional mixing, and I've never added nutrients partway through the primary, and only recently have I ever added more nutrients to the secondary (&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/24444/why-didnt-my-abv-reach-the-yeasts-limits/24449#24449&quot;&gt;see other post&lt;/a&gt;). I start with what I start with, and I let the primary fermentation go until it's done and then some -- generally about a month at least.  The key is giving it time to do its thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, sometimes things smell a little funny, as yeast with less nutrient than they like might produce some temporary off-notes in the nose.  A sulfury eggy smell is one such common odor.  However, after 30-odd batches, I've always found that these will age out, so long as you're patient.  And the thing about mead is, the longer it ages, the better it gets.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one extreme instance of bad smells (my first ever usage of Lalvin K1V-1116 yeast, and my first-ever Italian plum melomel with the plums in the primary), the smell was so sudden and so pervasive that my wife thought we had a gas leak in the house and she called the gas company.  Their engineer didn't find any methane leaks, but he did recognize the issue.  Even after such a funky start, the end product was blissfully divine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to add nutrients partway through the primary, mix it in well.  One important caveat I've heard about is that you might get a fizz-up: if the early mead is carbonated enough, adding nutrients may cause that carbonation to come out, so make sure you have enough headroom between the top of the liquid and the top of your container -- or you might wind up with a Mentos + Coca Cola kind of situation, and a huge sticky mess to clean up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T17:43:26.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24477" CreationDate="2019-09-13T22:43:05.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am the guy that asked the question you referenced. Since asking that question, I have canned 500+ 16oz cans of beer and session mead/melomel. I notice that it has only been a couple of months, which makes the number of cans seem a bit excessive. In my defense, I had six buckets of mead that I started last summer and finally got around to packaging, and my daughter asked me to supply the beer for her wedding next month, so I have been brewing pretty aggressively recently. And I might have been drinking a few myself :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of my cans so far have been can-conditioned. I would highly recommend it. I follow exactly the same routine when canning as I do when bottling. If know what you are doing and you don't get bottle bombs, you will not get can bombs either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with canning has been very positive, and a step up from bottling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I sanitize by filling and emptying in Star San in a bucket. With bottles, it takes a long time to get the bottles to fill and empty, while with cans it is super quick. My hands spend a lot less time in the acid and are much happier with the cans, and packaging takes less time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While filling, I feel like I have better visibility into the can and waste less through overflowing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cans are SO MUCH LIGHTER. I have to haul everything up and down from the basement, and I definitely notice the weight difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cans chill down much faster. I tend to not be very organized and sometimes forget to refill the beer fridge before going to bed. With cans, a couple hours in the fridge creates noticeably colder beer than the bottles I load at the same time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't stress at all about handing some beers to a buddy; with bottles, I never got them back (or if I did, they came back with caked on crud in the bottom - maybe I need better friends?). With the cans, they are single-use and just go into the recycling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Along the same lines, I don't have to deal with rinsing the empties and carrying them back down to the basement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Of the cans I have opened so far, I have had ZERO duds (i.e., beers with no carbonation). Maybe it is just me and my crappy capping skills, but it seems like my bottles ended up with a dud at least every case or two. This always made me a little nervous giving away bottles, because I was worried about giving my bud a dud.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With cans, you can tell how the carbonation is coming along. When they are first filled, they are &quot;squishy&quot; - they firm up as they carbonate. This means you can just give it a squeeze to tell if it is ready. No more drinking an under-carbonated test beer!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think that canning takes me slightly less time than bottling. For me, the biggest difference is the sanitizing time (mentioned above). Seaming might take a couple seconds longer than capping, but the difference seems negligible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cans stack really nicely, and it seems like they take less space than cases of long neck bottles. I use the plastic 4-pack holders and I stack 5-deep with no worries about something falling over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can take my home brews anywhere, without worrying about the possibility of having one break and leave sharp glass shards behind. If you drop and break a can, you just shotgun it! No broken glass and no wasted beer!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With bottles, I would use a sharpie on the cap to mark the style. Given the limited space, I would have very cryptic one or two-letter markings that nobody else could figure out. With cans, I use a sharpie on the side of the can, so I can actually write something that is useful to other people without needing a decoder ring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 4-pack holder make it easy to carry around a small number of beers. With 22oz bottles, I can carry a couple or a whole case in a carton. Makes it much more convenient to hand off a few beers to a friend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only negative to canning is long-term cost. The cans are somewhat less expensive than bottles, but they are single-use and you will end up buying lots more cans than bottles in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3003" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T22:43:05.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14994" CreationDate="2019-09-14T03:05:43.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Additional tannins and acid can lead to better mouth feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best hard cider and wine apples are those that are both high in tannin and malic acid. I look for cider that, please excuse the expression, makes your balls ache when you drink it. That’s what I use to make my apple wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T21:40:13.877" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T21:40:13.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24461" CreationDate="2019-09-14T23:03:41.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would seal the carboys temporarily by holding a stopper with two tubes onto them in place with one hand. One of the tubes would extend to the level just above the yeast and the other end just below the stopper. By applying pressure with an air pump or compressed air/co2/n2, you can then push the wine out of the container into an ageing vessel or filter etc. 1-2 psi should be enough for that. You can still use your old filtering method but without lifting the filled carboys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like this one here just on a bigger scale:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5c/Test_tube_filled_with_rubber_bung.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rubber bung with tubes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would only use pumps before fermentation. Or at least not with small batches of a few gallons. Pumps agitate liquid quite a bit, something I'd like to avoid after fermentation. The pumps I used before also created far too much waste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 5 gallons of wine, pumps and power filtration systems are just overkill with far too much maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16389" LastActivityDate="2019-09-14T23:03:41.993" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24488" CreationDate="2019-09-15T23:28:33.680" Score="3" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started the fermentation for a pale ale two and a half weeks ago, dry hopped it five days in and then racked it four days ago. The trub has fallen to the bottom and I just noticed a dark layer of liquid floating on the top. I've never seen this before. Does anyone have an idea of what it is?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dLQi7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17623" LastEditorUserId="17594" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T17:04:43.223" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T17:04:43.223" Title="Dark liquid floating in secondary fermentor" Tags="|beer|secondary-fermentation|trub|mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24487" CreationDate="2019-09-16T21:41:02.463" Score="3" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I have implied but not said outright that I have been making wine for almost 30 years, but what I have also implied but not outright said is that there has been a break in that amateur winemaking career due to a divorce and moving across the country. You might notice some of my questions here, or posts elsewhere on the web were quite prolific, then I disappeared for a few years and I am back again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok so this explains why I am asking this question. Below I am detailing my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously, I was sweetening my musts to target 1.100 in SG or a little more in order to get a decent ABV at 14-15%. However, for the last few weeks I have been using my hydrometer and noticing that 1.100 now corresponds to closer to 12.5% ABV. I have checked my old books and yes conversion tables ARE what I thought they were, but looking at conversion tables on the internet today show that 1.100 is between 12.3 and 12.7% ABV. What used to be universal appear to not be accurate and what is generally considered universal today doesn't match the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What gives? Are hydrometers and conversion tables entering in a calculated error to account for other solids in solution or what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T22:38:46.357" Title="Why has the Specific Gravity to Potential Alcohol conversions changed?" Tags="|techniques|specific-gravity|alcohol-content|conversion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24486" CreationDate="2019-09-16T22:38:46.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was curious and poked around a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I remembered reading that hydrometers were previously calibrated at 60°F, whereas nowadays they tend to be calibrated at 68°F.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend&lt;/a&gt; describes the older calibration at 59°F instead of 60°.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;→ However, that temperature shift has barely any impact, not the 1.5%-2.5% difference you note.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I also recalled reading that ABV can be calculated using multiple different equations.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/2011/06/16/alcohol-by-volume-calculator-updated/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page over at Brewer's Friend&lt;/a&gt; describes how their calculator implements two different equations.  For an OG of 1.100 and an FG of 1.000, their &quot;standard&quot; results in an ABV of 13.13%, and their &quot;alternative&quot; results in an ABV of 14.20%.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;→ I suppose it's possible that a different equation with even higher ABV results at higher gravities might have been more commonly used in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not definitive by any means, but hopefully this gives you something useful to work from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T22:38:46.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24485" CreationDate="2019-09-18T22:11:45.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reasonably certain its beer ;)  Even a pale ale looks dark in a carboy when it clears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your yeast is settling to the bottom and in that process the beer at the top is clearing.  But this beer is having trouble clearing.  That looks like a lot of sediment for a secondary on a pale ale, to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation would be to crash cool it. That will help drop everything out of suspension there, leaving you with bright beer you can rack off.  Or just leave it be, I'm sure it will clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17626" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T22:11:45.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-19T03:08:40.823" Score="0" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a pump to move strike water from my HLT to the mash tun.  I've tried it with and without &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/fermenters-favorites-fighter-jet-sparge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this nozzle&lt;/a&gt; at the end of the hose.  The nozzle splatters water when my output valve is open more than about halfway; without it, I can open the valve wide open and mash in much faster.  The downside is, I have to add the nozzle back on before I vorlauf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any drawbacks to mashing in more slowly with the nozzle in place, or do you generally use your sparging device to add the strike water (and I just need a less messy one)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6057" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T18:41:48.820" Title="Should I transfer strike water through a sparging device or more directly?" Tags="|equipment|mash|sparge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-19T18:44:07.523" Score="1" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I made a grapefruit wine recently, using Ocean Spray 100% grapefruit juice, mostly because I am lazy and it was a test batch of about a gallon and a half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results were interesting. It is clear that ocean spray uses zest in their concentrate, and in taking the zest some pith clearly came with it. So my grapefruit wine is bitter, pithy bitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when one eats grapefruit, or at least if they eat slices of grapefruit, the aftertaste of pith is a normal and usual part of the experience, and for many people grape fruit is an acquired taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, my grapefruit wine after having let it sit for a while, it still has the bitterness, but it's not the rocket fuel  / fusel taste, it's pithy. Although I don't think it's a wine I would serve a guest who really isn't ready for it, I think the wine gives one to appreciate the grapefruit for what it is. Part of the whole grape fruit experience. I was thinking of bottling it in splits (to keep the serving size down) and using it as a digestif or serving it with hors d'vours that compliment the flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a wine I have come to appreciate even though it's bitterness makes it less palatable, but whether I like it or not, I appreciate how it represents the fruit very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering making another batch, but from fruit and only using the supreme part of the fruit (supremes being slices cut away from all skins) to see if I can make a more palatable wine that would appeal to a larger audience that what I produced with ocean spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your experiences with a grapefruit wine and have your tried from bottled juice and/or fruit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastEditorUserId="12050" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T18:49:34.613" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T18:49:34.613" Title="Have you made grapefruit wine and what were your results?" Tags="|ingredients|bitterness|fruit-wine|citrus|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24489" CreationDate="2019-09-20T18:41:48.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'll notice any difference in beer by throttling back. On my RIMS I get the strike water up to temp in the mash tun first, stop the pump completely, dough in, then restart the pump.  This has the benefit of getting all the equipment preheated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17626" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T18:41:48.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24092" CreationDate="2019-09-21T20:52:56.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem solved: I recently picked up some 1/2&quot; Versa Fittings FDA Grade PVC hose, made in Canada, and it's superior in every way to the stuff that was driving me nuts (which is likewise food-grade PVC and likewise made in Canada).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just thought I'd pass on the info in case anyone else is looking for relatively kink-free siphon hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2019-09-21T20:52:56.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-22T00:49:22.833" Score="1" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never made a beverage with meat in it so I'm a little scared. I think I can bake the bacon to make it crispy, then crumble it into the mead. Will it be safe to sit for a month of fermenting? Is that the best way to make a bacon flavor mead? (I will also put a quart of maple syrup in it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17375" LastActivityDate="2021-05-04T00:48:37.420" Title="How can I make maple bacon mead?" Tags="|fermentation|mead|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24493" CreationDate="2019-09-22T17:48:35.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So there is the safe way and the dangerous but interesting way. If you are lucky enough to have access to ancient recipe books that include things like meads wines and beers, occasionally you will run into references of floating a piece of meat in the container. Although they didn’t know it at the time, the protein was simply the source of nitrogen the fermentation needed, but I don’t think they knew why other than that anecdotally it helped. I think however, it probably just as often spoiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it  can be done but with some risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mr_road recommends weighing down the meat to keep it submerged. I don’t know if I would want the meat down in the bed of the yeast, however punching it down as one would with a crushed grape must or when adding fruit in the secondary would be a great idea. I think keeping it wet with the alcohol as it develops and it being blanketed by CO2 is probably enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be better served by fully fermenting your maple syrup mead, then slowly introducing an essence of or flavoring of bacon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could just serve your mead with breakfast .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastEditorUserId="12050" LastEditDate="2019-09-23T15:58:27.033" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T15:58:27.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24493" CreationDate="2019-09-23T13:34:02.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would wait until you have at least 5% ABV before adding meat into the mix, at ~5% anything pathogenic should be killed off. Cooking the meat before had I would also recommend as rubbing beer/mead/wine with raw meat although I trust the alcohol to keep me safe... I don't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also weight it down so it does not float on the top. Tie it to a stainless bolt or similar to hold it under the surface so mold can not form on exposed meaty bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal preference would be not to do it. But, if you are going to do it stay safe :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-10-22T09:45:58.770" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T09:45:58.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-23T16:00:35.750" Score="1" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have added yeast nutrients and yeast together at the beginning of my wine process. &#xA;Is this a bad idea as it was by mistake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cesar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17633" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-09-23T17:07:24.840" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T16:17:41.617" Title="Apple wine fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|beginner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17061" CreationDate="2019-09-23T17:28:28.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy bentonite clay and Sparkalloid and clarify your mead. Use the bentonite first, wait a week, add the Sparkalloid next, wait a week, then rack. The clarifiers may help the taste and remove unwanted yeast hulls suspended in the mead, but it won't make a large difference. They are mostly for appearance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try to refrigerate the mead for 3 days then rack again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the next fermentation, focus on temperature control. It makes a big difference. I had too much in a temperature controlled 5 gallon bucket so I siphoned some off into 2 mason jars and let them ferment. The 5 gallon bucket mead was delicious, while the mason jar mead was funky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17375" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T17:28:28.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24498" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-23T17:43:01.377" Score="2" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a extract Pumpkin Porter kit and just transferred from primary to secondary. I tasted it and I could taste the spices but was wondering if it was too late to pumpkin it up a little. Could i add something now, If so what exactly would I add, Caned pumpkin? Or is it already too late? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17269" LastActivityDate="2019-09-24T00:16:44.250" Title="Adding Additional Pumpkin To My Porter" Tags="|techniques|flavor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24496" CreationDate="2019-09-23T23:19:13.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a great idea.  Everybody loves to overcomplicate nutrient additions.  I don't.  Just add them at the beginning, it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T23:19:13.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24498" CreationDate="2019-09-24T00:16:44.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Secondary fermentation stage is a good time to add flavours to your beer.  Primary fermentation has already lowered the pH,  created ethanol, and used-up dissolved oxygen.  This makes your beer relatively inhospitable to a lot of microorganisms.  The large amount of carbon dioxide escaping the air-lock during primary fermentation can also remove some volatile flavours you may wish to keep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what sort of pumpkin you add, there may be some more significant fermentation, but that's ok.  I'm not familiar with canned pumpkin (it's not sold here) but just a sliced, dry-roasted pumpkin could be added.  You will probably need to wait an extra week or so for it to settle out - I guess this depends on whether it's mashed, sliced, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pumpkin variety names probably don't translate cross-hemispheres, but use something with a lot of flavour, not necessarily &quot;sweetness&quot;, something like a &quot;Kent&quot; perhaps might be a good addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://myfoodblog.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/jap-pump-300x300.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kent pumpkin&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2019-09-24T00:16:44.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24496" CreationDate="2019-09-25T11:09:25.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreeing with &lt;code&gt;dmtailor&lt;/code&gt;. As far as I understand it, yeast nutrient absorption begins during the lag phase and either the bulk of the nutrients are used then for the formation of precursors to cell replication, or during high growth at which time they are also used for cell replication. Bottom line: the sooner the yeast nutrient is present, the quicker the yeast can get down to business. So adding nutrients along with the yeast at pitching time is ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T11:09:25.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14994" CreationDate="2019-09-25T11:11:43.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind a bit of a cheat: some maltodextrin can work miracles in apple cider for improved body and a little bit of balanced sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T11:11:43.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24504" CreationDate="2019-09-25T11:16:28.567" Score="1" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;E.C. Kraus AC190 acid blend for wine making uses the following formulation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50% Citric acid &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25% Malic acid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25% Tartaric acid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LD Carlson acid blend is composed of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40% Citric Acid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50% Malic Acid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10% Tartaric Acid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is one better than the other? For which type of wine is each blend most suited? And why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T12:54:47.647" Title="differences acid blend formulation" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24503" CreationDate="2019-09-25T12:49:41.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well which is better would really depend on what you are trying to accomplish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let’s start with citric acid, it doesn’t really provide flavor, not on its own so much anyway. What it does is enhance the brightness of the fruit flavors that already exist in the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Malic acid (so called apple acid) is going to make your wine lean more toward an apple tartness. Not that kind of tart that makes you pucker, but the kind of tart that makes the wine feel crisp like fresh apple cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tartaric acid is the grape acid, it is where the word tart comes from. It principle comes from the grape skins (also plum skins), it is the main acid you taste/feel in Sauvignon Bland and some tarter Pinot Grigio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what does this mean for you? Well it might not matter at all unless you want to create specific taste and mouthfeel properties. They both do the same job in the most general sense, which is to blend the three principle acid components in a balanced way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can think of the two blends this way, the JD Carlson is more for oxidative wines (mostly reds, wines that benefit from breathing before being served, and the EC Kraus is more for reductive wines (sharp whites that you serve straight from the frig and avoid oxidation at all cost). But as I said, it won’t matter too too much unless you are looking to adjust those qualities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;I forgot to mention malolactic fermention. If you are doing an MLF to reduce acidity, then go with EC Kraus, if however you are doing MLF to produce buttery notes like buttery Chardonnay, than you benefit from more malic acic and may wish to go with JD Carlson so there is more malic acid to convert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also buy the three acid individually and make your own adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastEditorUserId="12050" LastEditDate="2019-09-25T12:54:47.647" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T12:54:47.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11243" CreationDate="2019-09-25T16:44:09.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;try Swerve Granulated it tastes like real sugar can use cup for cup in place of real sugar real good all around product for cooking baking and sweetening but need to do more investigating about homemade wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17641" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T16:44:09.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-25T20:44:49.527" Score="2" ViewCount="3937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a FermZilla Fermenter I plan on using a pressure fermentation method.&#xA;This will be the first time doing this I would to get some advice from those who have done this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;length of time under pressure?&#xA;Temperature while under pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17642" LastActivityDate="2019-09-27T20:43:40.370" Title="Pressure Fermenting an IPA, how long and at what pressure?" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-25T21:46:07.493" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I’m making some very simple mead (it’s my first time) and I use a balloon on top of my “container” to make sure it doesn’t blow up. But the balloon has already been blown up quite significantly in only about five hours. Is this normal? It seem a bit much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for not knowing much about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Thanks A lot for the help :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17644" LastEditorUserId="17644" LastEditDate="2019-09-26T06:36:00.193" LastActivityDate="2019-10-01T01:18:53.803" Title="Balloon-airlock filling up fast" Tags="|mead|beginner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2019-09-25T23:54:04.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's very normal and shows that your yeast is active.  It's possible that you over-pitched more yeast than was necessary but it shouldn't hurt anything.  Now be patient and let it ferment for about a month before tasting.  Should be great by then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T23:54:04.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2019-09-26T02:10:32.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s normal, but if you have a very good balloon on there, it might not pass air quickly enough.  You can loosen it a touch to let some air out from time to time, but I highly recommend you spend $4 on a bung and airlock combo from Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-10-01T01:18:53.803" LastActivityDate="2019-10-01T01:18:53.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24496" CreationDate="2019-09-26T02:12:53.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well apple as it turns out doesn’t really need additional nutrient, it’s very nutrient rich already. Same with cherries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it won’t hurt anything but it’ll make your apple ferment a little more vigorously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a fan of using &quot;just enough&quot; nutrient. Anything that isn't consumed by the yeast is going to be left in the end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DAP is argued to be carcinogenic. I don't know if that is true or not, but I don't necessarily want any more than necessary floating around in my drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a fan of using bee pollen as a nutrient. It provides all the necessary nitrogen and micro-nutrients that a ferment needs. Additionally, for mead's it is more of a purist's nutrient for traditional meads that are nutrient deficient without the addition of nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastEditorUserId="12050" LastEditDate="2019-10-07T16:17:41.617" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T16:17:41.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-26T13:09:25.267" Score="2" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put my wine in secondary at 1.025 and in 1 day it was down the 1.002. Why so fast? Did I do something wrong? Do I just let fermentation play out or do I stop it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17647" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T19:00:44.730" Title="Fast secondary fermentation (wine)" Tags="|wine|secondary-fermentation|primary-fermentation|secondary|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24511" CreationDate="2019-09-26T14:45:46.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speed of fermentation usually depends on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the amount of yeast cells (and nutrients)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the temperature of fermentation (the higher the faster)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To slow down fermentation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drop the temperature using Ice Packs or other cooling devices&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additives like SO2 could slow yeast as well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 1.002 you are almost done, I would let it finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T14:45:46.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24506" CreationDate="2019-09-27T20:43:40.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First let me state that I don't have a FermZilla and do not know how much pressure one of those can take safely. Verify it can handle it before you do it. Ok disclaimer out of the way…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically will ferment at 6 to 10 psi during the first 2/3 to 3/4 of “active” fermentation (usually about 3 to 5 days depending on the recipe and yeast). Then for the last bit will ramp it up to 13-14 psi. This allows there to be a decent amount of carbonation when it is done. I still let it sit for a week in the fridge at serving pressure (12-13 psi) to finish it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve found that the higher the pressure the slower the fermentation and above 15 psi it starts to produce some off flavors. Temperature wise I used to do 65F and then a ramp to 68F to have the yeast clean up after themselves. Since using pressure I’ve been doing about 5 degrees warmer. I’m told that I can go higher but I’ve been conservative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13721" LastActivityDate="2019-09-27T20:43:40.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24511" CreationDate="2019-10-02T19:00:44.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exciting the wine can also give a burst of fermentation. Since your wine was actively fermenting, and you moved it into a secondary you more than likely degassed it just a bit, raised the pH a touch as a result and the yeast liked it better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That’s all anecdotal, but it’s likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T19:00:44.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-03T17:39:03.857" Score="2" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s obviously a Lager, but that only describes the yeast. In what style of beer is Carling Black Label made. I drink just about only craft beer, but if I pushed for what I think is a great commercial beer. The Canadian developed Carling Black label is actually a really decent beer. But to this day I don’t know what style of beer is actually is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T22:12:57.123" Title="What style of beer is Carling Black Label" Tags="|lager|beer-styles|commercial|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24517" CreationDate="2019-10-03T19:58:28.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This beer goes WAY back and has distant roots in Sweden. There are probably differences depending on where you source it from. Carling in the USA is actually owned by Molsen Coors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer can be classified quite correctly and accurately as “lager”. If we are being truly pedandic, lager(ing) is a process rather than a yeast, although of course there are yeasts that are best suited for this treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lager is the style and Carling Black Label is an exemplar product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T19:58:28.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24517" CreationDate="2019-10-03T22:12:57.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the closest style is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://Probably%20the%20closest%20style%20is%20called%20Export%20Lager%20in%20the&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Export Lager or Helles Exportbier&lt;/a&gt;. It's a generic lager style of beer without a lot of distinction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T22:12:57.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-07T15:58:07.233" Score="0" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most winemaker's arsenals have or have available to them carboys from sizes 7.5 gallons all the way down to tiny tincture bottles, however one size that seems to be missing from the list is 5.5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have 7.5, 7, 6.5, 6 then it goes to 5 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For people who target 5 gallon batches and step down in sizing rather than adding water to back-fill, 5.5 gallons seems to be a missing step from the progression. Why hasn't this gap been filled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T14:14:08.687" Title="Why are we missing a 5.5 gallon carboy?" Tags="|carboy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-07T17:29:35.700" Score="2" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making beer at home for quite some time now and can definitely see the difference between dry and liquid yeast (especially in some beer styles like hefeweizen). In my area there is a long tradition of making wine at home (almost everyone has their own small vineyard). Everyone is using dry yeast. So, is there a significant difference between dry and liquid in wine making? Is the difference going to be significant only in some sorts like muscat or sauvignon? I think I'll definitely try it next season, just wandering what to expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T17:12:18.693" Title="Liquid yeast in wine making" Tags="|yeast|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24379" CreationDate="2019-10-08T04:20:15.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guava will do that. My first guava ferment went so much harder than that. A couple of days before leaving on a two week trip (with very little pre-planning due the reason for the trip) i had started a carboy full of guava mash. The night before departure the airlock clogged with foam and sometime around two a.m. the house boomed and i thought a handgun had gone off in the other room.  The roof, walls and door of our mud room were painted with guava mash, and our departure for the airport was too close to even clean up. It took serious scrubbing when we got back. SO yeah, guava will do that. But it also makes a real fine melomel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17668" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T04:20:15.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24522" CreationDate="2019-10-08T16:10:04.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some wineries which develop their own strains of yeast or allow wild yeasts to inoculate their wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of the rest use packets of dry active yeast. Some may use liquid strains simply because those strains are only available in liquid form, but the rest just pitch dry yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also know of a brewery yeast biologist who has stated unwaveringly that pitching the dry yeast produces the most consistent results. Rehydrating yeast first introduces two steps of adaptation the yeast have to undergo, while pitching the yeast dry allows the yeast to just rehydrate and adapt to the temp and environment one time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T16:10:04.077" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24522" CreationDate="2019-10-08T17:51:17.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I owned and operated a small winery for about 15 years. There are two ways to get yeast into your wine. Dried yeast or the skins of the grapes. The dried cultures are super high quality so I would buy kilos of dried yeast a year. Worked great. My wines scored 90+ points many times in magazines like Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate. I have made wine both ways with native yeasts and cultured and I can't really tell the difference. Nobody I know in the wine industry used liquid yeast cultures although I am sure it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T17:51:17.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-09T10:24:32.383" Score="2" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked some garden grown red currants a good while ago and threw them straight in the freezer without washing them. I'm planning on making wine with them soon.&#xA;Most recipes I've read recommend rinsing them before crushing, but how should I go about doing this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I let the berries thaw first or just rinse them while frozen? Is rinsing even necessary if I'm scalding them with hot water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-10-09T10:58:34.590" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T10:58:34.590" Title="Rinsing frozen red currants" Tags="|techniques|wine|first-time-brewer|ingredients|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24526" CreationDate="2019-10-09T10:57:26.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too late to rinse them now.  When ready to use, after thawing them out, I would suggest adding K-meta or one crushed Campden tablet to them per pound, let that sit for a day or two.  This will kill any bad yeast and bacteria that might be on the fruit.  Then make your wine and pitch plenty of good wine yeast.  The good yeast will overcome both the K-meta/Campden and whatever wild contaminants might have been in the fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T10:57:26.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24521" CreationDate="2019-10-09T14:14:08.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There must be some historical reason for that, which I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are some 5.5 gallon available now:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/Kegco-Gallon-Carboy-Fermenter-Homebrew/dp/B01ANDX3R0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.ca/Kegco-Gallon-Carboy-Fermenter-Homebrew/dp/B01ANDX3R0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T14:14:08.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24530" CreationDate="2019-10-11T04:41:28.913" Score="3" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ive been reading numerous recipes in preparation for my first brew, and im confused between two types of recipes: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first generally involves boiling ginger, adding sugar, champagne yeast, fermenting, backsweetening with nonfermentable sugars, priming, and bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second involves growing wild yeasts and bacteria in a semiopen container, and adding nonsanitised ingredients daily. This confuses me, as it seems like a great way to catch an infection and spoil the beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I am missing? Is there a noticeable difference in taste? Is there any other benefit to the second approach? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17676" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T18:24:01.300" Title="What is the purpose of the ginger bug?" Tags="|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24529" CreationDate="2019-10-11T12:58:44.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's about different flavor profiles.  One is a cleaner ferment simpler flavor profile, the other offers more complexity.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the open container to catch wild microbes is definitely hit or miss.  The best bet for this type of flavor profile is to get ginger bug from an established source (commercially or a fellow ginger beer brewer).  A good strong bug will quickly lower the pH of the solution and limit contaminating issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T12:58:44.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18965" CreationDate="2019-10-11T16:31:08.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An interesting short article on this topic on &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.whitelabs.com/beer/using-multiple-yeast-strains&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.whitelabs.com/beer/using-multiple-yeast-strains&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;agrees that mixing is fine and seems to suggest time-splitting is best for the esters/attenuation mix (see the second Q&amp;amp;A).&#xA;Good question GrainMother. Hope the brew turned out well whatever you did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17680" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T16:31:08.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24522" CreationDate="2019-10-11T17:12:18.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Biggest difference I noticed is the price.  Liquid yeast is much more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also more convinient to store dry yeast, it has a better shelf life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquid yeast might start to ferment faster (no starter required), but no big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I compared liquid yeast with dry yeast with my last cider batch that I splitted in two.  The liquid yeast resulted in a more mellow cider, but it might not be because it was liquid, maybe just the yeast strain...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try it, small differences are to be extpected, but nothing major IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T17:12:18.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24529" CreationDate="2019-10-11T18:24:01.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the difference has historical implications. Additionally ginger bug is said to have beneficial healthful properties that are absent in the shortcut recipe. It’s supposed to be much more probiotic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bug cultivates the yeasts already present on the ginger root meaning that those yeasts are attracted to ginger and will ferment the ginger itself rather than just fermenting added sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T18:24:01.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24154" CreationDate="2019-10-12T00:56:31.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don’t worry about methanol. Seriously, it’s only a concern if you distill. And honestly it’s only a concern if you distill Apple brandy. And honestly it’s only a concern if you distill 10 gallons of apple brandy and drink the foreshots. That would be a bad choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can’t make enough methanol to hurt yourself at all without distilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastActivityDate="2019-10-12T00:56:31.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24538" CreationDate="2019-10-17T11:28:23.957" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a Belgian Blond in primary that I'm planning of transferring to a secondary vessel in order to dry hop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually do a gelatin fining when transferring my beer to the bottleing bucket but this time I thought about doing another fining between the primary and the secondary, I'm hoping that this process will decrease the yeast sediment on the bottom of my bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any merit in doing gelatin fining twice (or more for that matter) or that any positive benefit from the process is gained on the first time and any subsequent repeat will achieve nothing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-17T18:33:22.687" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T18:33:22.687" Title="Is there any merit in doing gelatin fining multiple times?" Tags="|techniques|clarity|fining|gelatin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24537" CreationDate="2019-10-17T12:55:41.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Most of the benefits are achieved the first time.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing a second fining might increase clarity a little bit more, but the difference might be so little that it is not worth the trouble.  Also, if you bottle-condition, you will still end up with yeast in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at the pictures of this test: &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2015/01/05/the-gelatin-effect-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comparing one beer treated with gelatin and one that was not &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the beer is still really cloudy after the first treatment, I would not do it multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T12:55:41.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24461" CreationDate="2019-10-17T14:06:22.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Buon Vino Mini Jet filter, that I bought for about 100$.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot compare it to any other since it is the only one I used so far.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is for homewinemakers, you buy pad filters that come in 3 different grades (1-coarse, 2-medium, 3-fine).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it a bit slow to transfer the wine, but it works.  See it in action here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeohQosn34M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeohQosn34M&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T14:06:22.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24403" CreationDate="2019-10-17T14:47:58.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What hops is totally up to you, but I prefer to choose falvoring hops over bittering hops since cider has more than enough bitterness in general.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use about 5g of hops per liter of cider and let it sit for 3 to 7 days.  Ideally you will dry hop when primary fermentation is finished and after racking at least once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people have suggested making a hop tea, but I never tried that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of trial and error to achieve your ideal result, so if you can split your batch in two (or more), you can try different hops and techniques and then compare the results.  Use those results to refine your process for next time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T14:47:58.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20279" CreationDate="2019-10-17T17:30:24.983" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been some good answers about lagers vs ales. I’m going to expand on the IPA (Indian Pale Ale) side of things. &#xA;Obviously by the name it’s an Ale. What makes this Ale ‘different’ is the way it’s hopped and essentially the story of its origin. &#xA;In the 1800s there was export of beer from England to The Indian colonies. This beer was all Pale Ale. The trip to India took a while and it was hot in India so beer didn’t have a very long shelf life at all. However over time one style of beer seemed to last longer than other styles - it was found that in the making of this style a large amount of bittering hops was used. Without realizing it the increase in Hopps or alpha acids had a preservative effect. It eventually became a popular beer in the Indian colonies and thus got the name Indian Pale Ale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T17:30:24.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3913" CreationDate="2019-10-17T17:43:07.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed Oktoberfest / Märzen beers.&#xA;I also normally follow an all grain recipe and use Ale Yeast, namely; Nottingham and ferment between 16’C - 17’C (60’F - 62’F) relatively cool for an Ale.&#xA;In my experience there only one way this beer or even ‘a’ beer turns out lighter than expect, and that’s when your OG was too low for the style. I.E your initial sugar density was too low or diluted - with this dilution you also wouldn’t have had the normal steeping flavors that go along with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn’t give any OG / FG readings that would normally answer this quite conclusively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if yours was All Grain recipe - I’d say your Mashing wasn’t  efficient and so extracted/converted too little sugar from the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if it was extract / kit then it’s more likely you added more water by accident than you should have and or if you were suppose to boil as part of the recipe you under boiled - again meaning the concentration of sugar was not increased enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m an quite sure your wort was too diluted and or sugar concentration was to low. E.G for a Märzen you should of had an OG of 1.058 - 1.065 the finished at 1.010 - 1.013. You never said in your question that it was sweet this I expect your terminal gravity was on point but I expect you starting or OG would have been around 1.030 - 1.038. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just watch your OG next time and make sure it’s on point. If it’s still too low - allow for more boil off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T17:43:07.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24543" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-10-17T18:42:44.740" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-10-17T18:42:44.740" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T18:42:44.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24544" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-10-17T18:42:44.740" Score="0" Body="DIY stands for:  Do It Yourself." OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-21T13:36:22.647" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T13:36:22.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24545" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-10-17T18:44:13.530" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-10-17T18:44:13.530" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T18:44:13.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24546" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-10-17T18:44:13.530" Score="0" Body="Pitch is the action of adding yeast to a wort or must usually in a primary fermenter." OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-22T09:48:06.430" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T09:48:06.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24547" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-10-17T18:46:19.503" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-10-17T18:46:19.503" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T18:46:19.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24548" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-10-17T18:46:19.503" Score="0" Body="Irish-moss is a species of red algae usually used as a fining agent to clarify the beer or wine." OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-21T13:36:14.480" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T13:36:14.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24555" CreationDate="2019-10-17T22:44:05.977" Score="1" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;15 days ago I started a batch of wine from a Wine Kit. I went to measure the SG to begin the next step when I found the wine had a film layer at the top. Anyway I phoned the place that sold it to me and am getting a new wine kit tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I pour this contaminated wine down the toilet, I am wondering if I could finish the process and distill it? Can I do anything to salvage this ~21L of bad juice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of the contamination, it looked more like a white film before I poked it with a thermometer then it cracked:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UcUoi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UcUoi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17696" LastEditorUserId="17696" LastEditDate="2019-10-21T01:16:42.300" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:50:24.350" Title="Can I distill contaminated wine?" Tags="|wine|contamination|distillation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23074" CreationDate="2019-10-18T12:49:35.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that replacing the seals is good because they compress with time, but only after using them for some time.  I usually flip the seal once, before changing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can do to get a better seal is to verify the wire mechanism. I use a pair of plyers and bend the wire a little to tighten the seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T12:49:35.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24552" CreationDate="2019-10-18T16:52:42.640" Score="1" ViewCount="878" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created a lemon/ginger/carrot mead and started with SG 1.120. I used a mead calculator (&lt;a href=&quot;https://gotmead.com/blog/the-mead-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://gotmead.com/blog/the-mead-calculator/&lt;/a&gt;) to factor in the sugars in the carrot. However, the fermentation got stuck and the SG was 1.002 &amp;mdash; completely dry. I expected the yeast to eat the shredded carrot, but alas, yeast are not piranhas; they have no teeth. I added one pound of honey (and 1/2 tbsp. Fermax and 1 tbsp. calcium carbonate) and stirred. It is bubbling once again but how will I calculate the ABV now? The formula (and calculators) only have slots for original gravity and final gravity. The yeast are Lalvin 71-B (14%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17375" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T08:13:41.387" Title="How will I calculate ABV if I had to add honey in the middle of a stuck fermentation?" Tags="|mead|stuck-fermentation|alcohol-content|calculations|honey|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24551" CreationDate="2019-10-18T18:52:16.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand correctly, given your recipe you cannot measure original gravity (because you added more sugars in the form of honey after fermentation began) and therefore you need to find a way to estimate original gravity. You will (eventually) measure final gravity and use a calculator to estimate ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would estimate the original gravity contribution of the late-addition honey by factoring in the points per gallon based on the amount of honey added and the number of gallons in your fermenter. While each batch of honey will be slightly different, a generally accepted value for one pound of honey is 35 points per gallon (you can search the internet for this easily enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, I believe that you added one pound of honey to five gallons. This would mean that you would add seven points to your measured OG (1 pound times 35PPG divided by 5 gallons). So, your 1.120 OG would become 1.127.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be a bit more accurate, you would need to take into account that your measured original gravity got diluted a bit based on the fact that adding honey will have increased the volume in the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3003" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T18:52:16.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24549" CreationDate="2019-10-18T21:17:33.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing what type of contamination it is, it's hard to tell if anything can be done.&#xA;Is it a white film? Does it smell bad?  A small film isn't always contamination, it could be soap residue, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am inclined to think that if contamination results in bad taste, that some of the bad taste will be tranferred during the distillation process (Garbage In -&amp;gt; Garbage Out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is particularly true with vinager, maybe less with distillation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:50:24.350" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:50:24.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24569" CreationDate="2019-10-19T13:20:18.523" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewed my first Citrus-flavored beer last week, using American Citra hops and I'm curious - what gives the hops a Citrus flavor? Is it natural? Or rather inserted artificially when the hops is processed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance, &#xA;Idan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17699" LastEditorUserId="17699" LastEditDate="2019-10-20T16:37:32.907" LastActivityDate="2020-03-22T08:05:57.830" Title="Question about Citra hops" Tags="|hops|citrus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24549" CreationDate="2019-10-19T15:48:41.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can! You are just distilling the alcohol, not all the bad stuff. If you catch it before it turns to vinegar you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-10-19T15:48:41.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24554" CreationDate="2019-10-19T19:02:22.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Citrus flavors and aromas are naturally occurring in many hop varietals, especially in hops developed and/or grown in United States, Australia, and New Zealand.  Grapefruit character is most common, as well as lemon, orange, tangerine, lime, etc.  Cascade was one of the original known citrusy varieties.  After Cascade gained in popularity in the 1990s, many others followed suit.  Citra® hop is a newer and more complex hop with a lot of citrus as well as &quot;tropical&quot; mango, pineapple, and &quot;cat box&quot;.  This is all natural.  Fruit may be occasionally added to a few of these beers, and in these cases hopefully the brewer is telling you that they did so, but by &amp;amp; large this is all naturally occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-10-19T19:02:22.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-19T21:29:42.903" Score="3" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was given a 1/2 bucket of crystalized honey and so made Mead.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Used Champagne yeast, Original Gravity 1.092, Final Gravity 0.996.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My sort of problem is : there seems to be a 'sediment'.  AT THE TOP!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After racking, the mead is clearing from the bottom upwards! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume this is beeswax, very fine, and so will turn in a sort of reverse Champagne treatment removing the wax/scum with a suction tube (turkey baster?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any comments please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17701" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-22T15:51:08.310" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T16:01:20.533" Title="Very fine wax in Mead" Tags="|techniques|mead|process|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-20T08:01:25.117" Score="2" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help please if I add honey at the bottling stage will this add more sweetness and what sweeteners are non fermentable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17702" LastEditorUserId="16438" LastEditDate="2019-10-26T08:08:11.883" LastActivityDate="2019-10-26T08:08:11.883" Title="How to make Sweet beer" Tags="|beer|techniques|sweetness|honey|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24561" CreationDate="2019-10-20T12:08:59.840" Score="2" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;The home brew shop I go to is about a 45 min drive from my house. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need a cool box or ice pack to get liquid yeast back home and in my fridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy at the store said that's what I'll need to do but I've read online about people shipping it over multiple days to hot climates and it's been fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17703" LastEditorUserId="17703" LastEditDate="2019-10-20T12:18:46.957" LastActivityDate="2019-10-20T13:50:10.387" Title="How to transport liquid yeast?" Tags="|yeast|transport|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24558" CreationDate="2019-10-20T13:45:30.463" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honey is almost 100% fermentable, so if added at bottling, it can increase carbonation and potentially result in gushing overcarbonated bottles or even explosions.  You can however use it to prime the bottles instead of sugar.  In proper amounts you will get normal carbonation.  I have used honey one time as priming sugar and it worked well, however I forget the amount that I used.  There are online calculators that can help with this, perhaps try this one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/pages/priming-sugar-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.northernbrewer.com/pages/priming-sugar-calculator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better alternative for sweetening that is used often by brewers is lactose.  This sugar is not fermentable and will also increase body and mouthfeel of the finished beer.  Assuming 5 gallons (19 litres) of homebrew, if you use 1/2 lb (~225 grams) it will add just a hint of sweetness and body, 3/4 lb (~340 grams) adds a good balance of sweetness without being overpowering, and 1 full pound (~455 grams) adds significant sweetness and body that will be most noticeable in the finished beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lactose is difficult to dissolve and must be boiled in a little water for several minutes until no longer cloudy and well sanitized.  Then cool and add to the beer.  I do this on the same day as bottling with excellent results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also tried xylitol on a few occasions.  This is another non-fermentable sugar substitute.  It is a natural sweetener that comes from the birch tree.  I use it for my ciders but it will also work in beer.  It works in much the same way as lactose and can be used in the same amounts.  It is cleaner tasting than lactose, and it does NOT have a chemical taste the way you might get from Splenda, aspartame, stevia, or other sweeteners, which I have also tried but are nowhere near as delicious as xylitol or lactose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-10-20T13:45:30.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24559" CreationDate="2019-10-20T13:50:10.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Liquid yeast will survive for many days, and probably weeks, outside of being refrigerated.  No need to overthink this.  The yeast will be just fine until you get home.  Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-10-20T13:50:10.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24578" CreationDate="2019-10-20T15:15:45.077" Score="3" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flaked Wheat vs Milled Unmalted Wheat in beer brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make any difference to the brewing process or to the final product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17703" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T02:22:54.513" Title="Flaked Wheat vs Milled Unmalted Wheat" Tags="|all-grain|wheat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-20T17:56:30.880" Score="3" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found a bunch of specialty grains I'd intented for a beer but lost to time. They've been in brown paper bags for well over a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth using them at all for a small batch or has time/air ruined extraction, ruined flavor, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T03:36:43.373" Title="Found Old Grains - Usable?" Tags="|grain|specialty-grains|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-20T19:51:41.460" Score="3" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;Essentially what the title says. I use that bucket to store all the measurement equipment, hydrometer, etc. but also yeast nutrient, stabilisers and chemical sanitisers. The smell that came out from the bucket was pretty strong and sharp, leaving a tingly feeling in my nostrils for some minutes after getting a big whiff of it. I have a bunch of strawberries I have just thawed for wine making and I wanted to check that this wasn't a product of some kind of nasty chemical reaction and the bucket is still safe to use once it gets a good clean. Can Homebrewing Stack Exchange advise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16398" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T17:40:33.343" Title="I got a strong, chemical-vinegary smell when I opened the plastic fermentation bucket I use to store all my brewing stuff. Is it still safe to use?" Tags="|storage|chemistry|safety|bucket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-21T08:30:13.980" Score="2" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made some Young's Scottish Harvest Heavy from a can. I used cane sugar, which I prefer for colour and taste. My refractometer said 1.048 pre yeast. Ten days on, gravity seems to be static at 1.020-1.025, however I don't entirely trust the refractometer. I was careful with cleaning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried adding a little more sugar and some yeast to see if it needed kickstarting again but it hasn't made any difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just keg and prime and see what it does?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's a little cloudy but clearing slowly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advice please. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15602" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-22T14:09:21.177" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T14:09:21.177" Title="My brew has stopped" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24564" CreationDate="2019-10-21T08:47:38.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would give it a good clean, pop the lid on, leave it a bit, see if the smell comes back. Repeat this until the smell stops. If the smell never goes away I would be cautious of using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17703" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T08:47:38.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24563" CreationDate="2019-10-21T08:51:48.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used grains that old and it's been fine. Maybe if you have some kind of super palate you might be able to tell the difference but my friends and I can't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I would be cautious of using old grains are if they have gotten damp but even then I would probably give it a go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they have mould or look visibly infected with something I would chuck them away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17703" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-10-23T03:36:43.373" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T03:36:43.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24563" CreationDate="2019-10-21T12:56:11.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered too large of a bag of roasted chocolate grains, so I've had it two years now. I store it in a dry place, checking regularly to make sure the grains look and taste fine. I've used them in multiple beers over 2 years and had no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted those are really flavorful grains, so that may help. But I didn't taste any difference between the first beer done two years ago, and the last one 6 months ago with the same recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say you are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17665" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-10-23T03:34:01.263" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T03:34:01.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24554" CreationDate="2019-10-21T13:42:26.723" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happened to have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewing.org/The-Homebrewers-Companion-Charlie-Papazian_p_2395.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;The homebrewer's companion&quot;&lt;/a&gt; on my desk when I read your question, so I quickly checked in it, and it says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Recently the German Society of Hop Research has recognized the&#xA;  important potential of hop flavor and aroma in their document &quot;New&#xA;  Trends in Hop Breeding.&quot; The German Society of Hop Reserch identifies&#xA;  key hop compounds such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;citronellol = citrus-like&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;limonene = citrus-like&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;linalool = citrus, flowery-like&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These compounds are the part of the oil which will gave aroma. When we look for these exact key words, we find multiple articles, this one was interesting to explain a bit what exactly would bring which aroma.. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/03610470.2017.1402574&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hop Aroma and Hoppy Beer Flavor: ChemicalBackgrounds and Analytical Tools&lt;/a&gt; from the Journal of the American Society of Brewing Chemists&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As  indicated,  linalool,b-citronellol, anda-terpineol are chiral&#xA;  molecules occurring as(R)- and (S)-enantiomers. These compounds have&#xA;  remarkablearoma properties; they impartfloral, geranium-like, fresh,&#xA;  and citrus notes to beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this article confirms that the citrus taste seems to come mainly from the Citronellol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To understand why the Citra or Cascade taste citrus, then we need to understand if we have more Citronellol in them, and why? Reading more articles about it, the most interesting to me was &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/261475199_Screening_of_Geraniol-rich_Flavor_Hop_and_Interesting_Behavior_of_beta-Citronellol_During_Fermentation_under_Various_Hop-Addition_Timings&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Screening of Geraniol-rich Flavor Hop and Interesting Behavior &#xA;of β-Citronellol During Fermentation under&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Various Hop-Addition Timings&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In previous studies, we focused on biotransformation of hop- derived&#xA;  monoterpene alcohols (linalool, geraniol, β-citronellol, nerol and&#xA;  α-terpineol) (Fig. 1) and their contribution to the flavor  of hopped&#xA;  beer. As a result, the β-citronellol was almost absent in  hop and&#xA;  wort and gently increased during fermentation, because  of the&#xA;  biotransformation from geraniol to β-citronellol by brewing  yeast.&#xA;  Though, in general, the geraniol drastically decreases during the&#xA;  first 3–4 days of fermentation, the concentration of geraniol and&#xA;  β-citronellol in beer could be enriched depending on the initial&#xA;  geraniol content in the wort; for example, by using geraniol rich&#xA;  hop Citra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As shown on this figure, the Geraniol, while mixed with yeast, will disappear and produce Citronellol&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w43pV.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w43pV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it happens that Cascade and Citra contains plenty of Geraniol:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIa3k.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIa3k.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Cascade is introduced in the beer, we can see a strong creation of Citro, especially quick if introduced at the end of the fermentation, ad a strong decrease of the Geraniol if introduced before the end of the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AJNr3.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AJNr3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which was interesting to me, as in my mind Citra or Cascade would produce the most citrus flavor if used for dry hopping instead of boiling. So a last point worth mentioning, is that apparently the precise combination of what you find in Citra will make the citrus taste stronger:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In addition, we found that there was an additive effect among &#xA;  linalool, geraniol, and β-citronellol (38) and that the flavor im-&#xA;  pression became lime-like by coexistence of these three monoter- pene&#xA;  alcohols (37). Therefore, we proposed that the lime-like  character of&#xA;  Citra beer might be due to synergy among linalool,  geraniol, and&#xA;  β-citronellol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which would explain the efficiency of dry hopping as the best time to have as much possible of the three elements is at the end of the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17665" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T13:42:26.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24564" CreationDate="2019-10-21T17:40:33.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some research I think I discovered a potential source of the problem. Potassium metabisulfite decomposes into, amongst other compounds, sulphur dioxide - a gas which is irritating and toxic at higher concentrations. SO2 reacts with water to form sulphuric acid (nasty!), and that includes water in mucus membranes, which explains why I experienced a a sharp acidic odour and burning feeling in my nose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only since recently the bucket was stored in a pretty humid place, which apparently can accelerate potassium metabisulfite's decomposition which explains why I only ever got that effect now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16398" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T17:40:33.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24565" CreationDate="2019-10-22T07:15:36.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;thanks to @rob for a great tip. As it happened, I kegged it last night as I have nothing to lose. If it bursts out, it probably wasnt finished. I will read into the charts and correction factors as the manual did not make it clear that the refractometer did not reliably work mid-ferment. Its very cloudy but a spell in the garage should solve that  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;update&lt;/em&gt; - it had actually finished (can says 1.008)&#xA;Brix to Gravity during and after fermentation converter&#xA;Original Brix&#xA;1.048&#xA;Current Brix&#xA;1.025&#xA;Current Gravity&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;1.005&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15602" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T07:15:36.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24558" CreationDate="2019-10-22T09:49:51.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several ways you could go about trying to make a sweet beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honey will of course add sweetness, but only if the yeast do not ferment it away in the bottle. (Which will also cause the bottles to explode, if you add too much of it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for non-fermentable sugars, I found the following list on &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homecidermaking.com/non-fermentable-sugar-for-hard-cider/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homecidermaking.com/non-fermentable-sugar-for-hard-cider/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Xylitol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Erythritol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Stevia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Splenda&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Lactose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Maltodextrin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of those, I know that maltodextrin can be produced naturally during the malting process, and is found in certain specialty grains. Typically it has no flavor, but provides a texture of 'fullness'. You can also buy it as a powder, and some varieties have a perceptible sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a keg, you also have the option to kill off the yeast with campden or by heat pasteurizing. Once the yeast are out of the picture, you can add however much sweetener you want, and then force carbonate in your keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17287" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T09:49:51.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24558" CreationDate="2019-10-22T13:20:26.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can adjust the sweetness in two other ways not already mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Through adjusting the mash temperature and time. This will affect how much the natural starches are broken down. Generally mashing at a higher temperature will yield a less fermentable wort and could lead to a &quot;sweeter&quot; tasting beer. This sweetness would be a malty sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using a high percentage of caramel or crystal malts in the grist. These contribute to sugary flavors in the finished beer. High percentage with these is relative. Too much can be cloying. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T13:20:26.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24563" CreationDate="2019-10-22T14:24:49.653" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I buy my 2-row in 40kg bags which lasts me one or two years, no problem there.  The flavor is not an issue, the gravity will still be there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when it comes to speciality grain, if they are &lt;strong&gt;not crushed&lt;/strong&gt; it is much better.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After crushing&lt;/strong&gt; them, they will lose their freshness quickly if not sealed properly, and flavor fades a little.  The roasted flavor of black malt, chocolate or crystal malts isn't something that fades too much, but the smoked malt will definitely be less smoky after a year.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would probably use it, but mixed with fresh grain otherwise the beer might be too bland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T14:24:49.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24557" CreationDate="2019-10-22T15:45:34.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Next time you rack, you should be able to position the racking cane/tube just above the sediment but below the floating wax. The wax should continue to float during the process.  Stop transferring when the wax starts to enter the tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a primary/bottling bucket, I would just scoop it out or use a strainer/filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T15:45:34.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23942" CreationDate="2019-10-22T16:07:22.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wine will continue to produce bubbles even when the fermentation is complete, the CO2 is stuck in the wine/must and is released gradually.  Like a soda can that you open, it doesn't get flat before some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you can measure Finish Gravity using an hydrometer (even if you didn't measure the OG), just to make sure you are below 1.000 (for a dry wine), it will tell you that fermentation is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A trick when you have air space left in a container, is to sanitize glass marbles and add them to the demi-john, you might need a lot of them, but they will raise the liquid level without adding any additionnal liquid.  Adding water can be done in small quantity as well, depending how rich is the flavor to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T16:07:22.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24551" CreationDate="2019-10-22T16:47:02.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently it IS possible to get the ABV without knowing the OG by using both a hydrometer and a refractometer.&#xA;See here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodlandbrew.com/2013/02/abv-without-og.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.woodlandbrew.com/2013/02/abv-without-og.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13721" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T16:47:02.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24562" CreationDate="2019-10-23T02:22:54.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the grist contains unmalted grains, typically the brewing process is to first cook the grains to their &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starch_gelatinization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gelatinisation point&lt;/a&gt;.  The gelatinisation temperature of wheat is about 51°C → 64°C (125°F → 147°F), which is a typical mash temperature.  So unmalted wheat should gelatise in the mash without any special treatment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/article/adjuncts-explained/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flaking process&lt;/a&gt;, the grain is pre-steamed before going thorough heated rollers.  The steam (and rollers) will gelatinise the grain, so when including it in the mash no further processing needs to be done.  So one can just mash them with the rest of the malt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it doesn't matter a whole lot for &lt;em&gt;wheat&lt;/em&gt;, but it does for other grains/adjuncts like rice &amp;amp; corn (which have higher gelatisation temperatures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does flaked wheat Vs raw wheat make a difference?  I've not noticed any, but I only use non-malted wheat rarely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T02:22:54.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24249" CreationDate="2019-10-23T03:46:40.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes it is possible.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barrel fermentation of white wine is a traditional Burgundian technique, it is used (commercially) with Chardonnay for instance.  Be careful because white wines are easy to oxidize, so be sure to top up the barrel if need be. Fermenting in oak barrel will add a little color and complexity.  You can also conduct a ML fermentation in the oak barrel to add even more complexity to the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps would be to crush and press the skin to extract the juice, and pour directly in the barrel. You may use a cheesecloth as a basic filter to remove remaining solids. Maceration is not recommended with white wines, at least no more than 4 hours since white wines do not need color or tannin extraction. Stirring the lees weekly is recommended to add complexity for the first couple of months, but not during ML fermentation.  Add ML culture to trigger the ML fermentation right after the alcoholic fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White wines should not age for too long in oak since they are prone to oxidation, so age in a glass container (carboy, demijohn) or bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Most of my recommendations are from home winemaking books that I read...&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-23T04:16:07.843" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T04:16:07.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24586" CreationDate="2019-10-24T18:52:02.000" Score="2" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pressed 35L of apples and the juice was pourred into a clean carboy with a muslin cloth on top, aiming to make wild cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 4 days of no action, this is the carboy at 16h in day 4:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fpUq4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fpUq4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And 4 hours later, by 20h in day 4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ylS4d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ylS4d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my juice infected and if so, can I still save it? Why are the white particles only localized in the middle and not going towards the edges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the wild-yeast content is not high enough, and that I should get a commercial yeast? Please, any suggestions are welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A closer look:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JdxI2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JdxI2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17713" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T21:51:21.233" Title="Mold or fermentation not touching the edge of the carboy" Tags="|cider|wild-yeast|mold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24457" CreationDate="2019-10-24T21:14:18.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to supply sterols(that I know of), I was at Plumpton College Wine Dept. in the UK last week visiting an old friend, and they use yeast hulls to supply FAN and other nutrients to the yeast, I did not ask specifically about sterols. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;======= Update ====&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, they can/do supply sterols, as well as FAN for growing yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also Olive oil can be used to supply sterols to yeast in the growth phase without requireing oxygenation[&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kotmf.com/articles/oliveoil.pdf]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.kotmf.com/articles/oliveoil.pdf]&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2019-11-25T17:47:50.740" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T17:47:50.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23328" CreationDate="2019-10-24T21:23:57.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need to thin rhyozmes as far as I am aware, but I am not a gardener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I knew which country you were in and what variety you were growing then I could pull the local hop growers reports for you and they tend to have a area by area variety break down of yields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how many years have your hops been established?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to recall in the UK 2018 the season was looking very good, but then rain and sun in the wrong order towards the end of the season reduced some farms yields significantly. And, wilt was a big issue for some varieties in 2018.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T21:23:57.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24262" CreationDate="2019-10-24T21:31:22.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chlorophenols do not diminish, therefore you have some other contamination issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would always treat my water from the tap with Metabisulphite to knock out any chlorine just to be sure, as presence of chlorophenols is grim, and unrecoverable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first guess would always be sanitation, I have been doing this years and every so often something will slip through the net. Now that I have PAA this is much rarer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-10-25T21:48:17.147" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T21:48:17.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24580" CreationDate="2019-10-24T21:35:53.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Mold or fermentation is not touching the edge of the carboy due I would imagine to the dished bottom or side form of the carboy, which is forming the interesting looking krausen. Looks like yeast is getting started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would always pitch a packet of yeast along side wide fermentors, but I am paranoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good pictures btw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T21:35:53.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24394" CreationDate="2019-10-24T23:48:27.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 17 days of fermentation is more than enough to finish fermentation, your 1.015 is a good FG.  After fermentation (about 7 days more or less), the yeast will flocculate to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You already know the answer to your question &quot;What to expect?&quot;, it is way too strong of a beer, perhaps 8.5% to 9% of alcohol, instead of 5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested by dmtaylor, if you loose too much water to evaporation, not ideal, but you can always add a little more.  Next time, you can try to figure out if you can adjust your setup/process to have less evaporation. Maybe you boiled for too long? The kettle size/format might cause more evaporation.  In any case, you can either start with more water to compensate your excess evaporation or add more at the end to obtain the exact quantity you need to ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T23:48:27.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24580" CreationDate="2019-10-25T21:51:21.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a standard beginning fermentation.  I wouldn't worry yet.  Give it time, it will likely turn out alright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T21:51:21.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24230" CreationDate="2019-10-26T08:07:32.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cold crashing we go from tank temp to 4C in about a day, that is due to the limitations of our cooling plates and chillers. If we could drop a tank from 18-20C to 1C in 12H I would take that. ~1.5C/H gets the yeast to go to sleep and drop out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything below 4C and even using a lager yeast it will be effectively stopped, and starts sedimenting out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Y and Z are going to depend on a number of factors such as flocculation rate of your yeast, are you at FG or crashing 1 or 2 points above it so you don't have to prime back for packaging, how deep is your FV, a 10HL 3.5m FV takes a bit longer to drop clear than a 50l/10 gal FV, but likewise a tall 50l vs a squat 25l will have different values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, for arguments sake in a 50l FV at FG, with a standard ale yeast you are crashing down to 4C in a day, I would expect for most brews Y &amp;lt;1day, and Z to be 2 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 days in a small FV at &amp;lt;=4C will drop out most of your yeast, heck most should be out already if you are at FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2019-10-26T08:07:32.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24590" CreationDate="2019-10-26T12:55:37.297" Score="2" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 30L of pressed apples. After getting the wild yeast started in one week, I put an air-lock on. This is how my carboy looked right after that operation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fRqVx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fRqVx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used organic raw apple cider vinegar as a sanitizing solution in the air-lock. Hope that was a good idea. Anyways, air-lock bubbled for an hour or so right after being set, but after one hour, air-lock activity has stopped. Still, there's a healthy couple fingers of foam on top of the brew, just like in the original picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I espect air-lock activity to come back within the next few hours/days? Is it normal to get good air-lock activity right after air-locking the carboy and then having it stopped for a while?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner so hope this question is still interesting! Any advice is welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17713" LastActivityDate="2019-10-26T13:11:36.447" Title="Fermentation started right after air-locking, but stopped after a few hours" Tags="|fermentation|cider|airlock|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24230" CreationDate="2019-10-26T12:57:13.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this question involves estimation and I haven't actually run the proposed experiment myself or recorded specific data, I'll take my guess based on what I think I might know based on 20 years homebrewing experience.  To be &quot;clear&quot;, what I personally would be aiming for is not to settle out obvious chunks of yeast and hops, but rather the finest sediment that changes the beer from a slight haze to the point of brilliant clarity.  As I bottle my beer but do not have an enormous refrigerator and thus can only refrigerate a few bottles at a time, I experience this after a bottle has been moved from the basement at about 60 F (16 C) to the refrigerator at about 40 F (4 C) for a period of weeks.  Brilliant clarity is a rarity for me except when the bottle has been in the refrigerator for a long time.  So, my estimates for 90% brilliance vs. 50% &quot;clear&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Y is approximately 1 week?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z is approximately 3 weeks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this is just an estimate.  Anyone interested should run an experiment to support or refute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-10-26T13:03:18.280" LastActivityDate="2019-10-26T13:03:18.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24588" CreationDate="2019-10-26T13:11:36.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get that vinegar out of there.  Your entire batch could turn to vinegar, as it is obviously not a good sanitizer for acetobacter vinegar-producing bacteria!  I use vodka in mine, and Everclear would work even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you see on top is just foam from initial pouring of the yeast or juice into the fermenter and/or off-gassing from same.  That is not what fermentation looks like.  It will take several days before you see actual fermentation.  Be patient, replace the vinegar in the airlock, and it should all work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-10-26T13:11:36.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24598" CreationDate="2019-10-27T03:16:54.467" Score="3" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the use of pectic enzyme leave a sediment as pectin haze clears?  I have a couple gallons of jalapeno wine with a diluted apple base that I have added additional pectic enzyme to, and I'm ready to bottle it up and let the enzyme work in the bottle unless it will leave a sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17719" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T15:01:45.303" Title="Is there a sediment from clearing pectin haze?" Tags="|wine|sediment|pectic-enzyme|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24593" CreationDate="2019-10-27T12:59:39.623" Score="3" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making my first batch of mead, and just racked it over for the first time about  2 weeks ago. It's clearing just fine, but it's pretty carbonated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what to do about the carbonation. I'm trying to make a still mead, and bottle it into wine bottles. There can't be any carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will letting it sit for longer remove the carbonation, or do I need to add something? I'm not in a rush to bottle it, I just don't want to ruin the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't get a hydrometer until after I started, but it's sitting at 0.996SG when I read it today. I used champagne yeast, if that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17722" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T13:25:41.053" Title="Removing carbonation in mead" Tags="|carbonation|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24592" CreationDate="2019-10-27T13:21:15.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you let it rest for long enough before it is bottled, it will lose the carbonation on its own.  It may take several weeks, I'm not exactly sure how long this would take.  However I think many people would simply sanitize a spoon and stir it up to accelerate the process.  Or do both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-10-27T13:21:15.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12834" CreationDate="2019-10-28T13:34:22.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can if they were designed for this (originally had beer, so you know the glass is strong enough) and are in good shape.&#xA;I actually like to use them for porter or stout. I have used mine 4 times already, without any issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some time the seals may leak a bit though, in this case it's best to replace them. You can find more about it here : &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/23074/swing-top-bottles-leaking-carbonation&quot;&gt;Swing-top bottles leaking carbonation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17665" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T13:34:22.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24596" CreationDate="2019-10-28T20:37:15.487" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in a similar situation to the OP in &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/12822/should-i-pitch-a-second-round-of-yeast&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;. I think I under-pitched my yeast. Can you help me figure out if that's the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://olybrew.com/recipes/extreme.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's the recipe&lt;/a&gt; I followed. I didn't measure the OG before I threw it in the fermenter and pitched. I have had good luck with just popping the nutrient pack on my Wyeast starters at least 3 hours before pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time I forgot and didn't pop it until about 2 hours. It had started to swell, but not a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed Oct 26 in the evening. Oct 27 the foam did (I think) turn into a krausen. I do have sediment on the bottom. I did see a lot of tiny particle activity when I looked close. I did not see any bubbles out of the airlock. I checked my lid (I'm in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/fermonster-carboy-7-gal.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fermonster&lt;/a&gt;) and it was tight. I check the seal around the stopper and it was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Oct 28, I read up and decided I needed to check the gravity. It was 1.040. This beer is supposed to start at 1.070 and go to 1.015.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my theory. Check me. It's on it's way from 1.070 to 1.015. It's fermenting. I had a leak in the o-ring under the lid that I couldn't see, so the excess air was going out of that instead of through the airlock. I just need to hold tight and I'll have beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don't understand why I haven't seen the airlock activity at all. I haven't experienced that before and this is my 9th batch of beer.&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16025" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T00:36:01.833" Title="Is it fermenting?" Tags="|fermentation|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24595" CreationDate="2019-10-29T00:36:01.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you have a fermentation happening.  As you yourself admit, the leakage out of the lid is the reason why the airlock doesn't seem to be working.  But not to worry, everything will turn out fine.  You underpitched a little bit, but since you saw signs of fermentation within a day, everything should be good anyway.  Next time pop the pack earlier and consider making a yeast starter if it doesn't swell very fast within say 8-12 hours.  Just 2-3 hours is not enough to know if it is healthy yeast.  Give it more time.  A day or two before is great if you can do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T00:36:01.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24592" CreationDate="2019-10-29T13:25:41.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beer-wine.com/fermtech-the-whip-degasser&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wine degasser like this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use something very similar for meads and wines before I go to that final racking for clarity.  You will introduce a little oxygen, but if there is enough CO2 evolving out of the product while degassing it seems to have minimal impact.  At least that's my experience with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T13:25:41.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24591" CreationDate="2019-10-29T15:01:45.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes there is.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pectine is cleared by hydrolysis, pectine molecules are broken down and will sediment as pectine flakes.  Those sediments are often called fine lees, and will float above the heavier gross lees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are good (french) articles on wikipedia, confirming this:   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/D%C3%A9bourbage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/D%C3%A9bourbage&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pectine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pectine&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T15:01:45.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-29T20:18:41.720" Score="5" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;For many years, I was getting efficiency at about 81% after backing into the numbers with Brewers Friend doing simple non-recirculated infusions at 2qt per lb with continuous fly sparge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About a year ago, I built a electric RIMS 240 volt, 5500 watt, PID controlled system, so that I could do some step mashes and manage temps better. I like the set up, but my efficiency has gone down to 61% with continuous recirculation and the RIMS firing as needed to hold the desired temp. I am alright with poor efficiency as long as I have predictable results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I brewed a hefe, that I have done many times. The change was to a step mash starting with 15 min at 111°F, then 15 min at 122°F, and then 30 min at 150°F. This was all stepped with the RIMS. Before sparging, I did a mash conversion test with iodine and it showed that it was all converted. Did a normal fly sparge. Efficiency on this batch was 50% which means I will have very weak beer, OG 1.037. My single temp RIMS target was 1.042, which I have previously achieved, and my no circulation infusion would have been 1.055.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone else using a RIMS was seeing similar results. I am wondering if the heating element is killing off the enzymes during recirculation, but if that were true my starch test should have shown plenty of unconverted starches. I am confused by my declining efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17734" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-10-29T20:39:16.283" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T15:42:00.550" Title="RIMS declining efficiency" Tags="|process|efficiency|rims|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24601" CreationDate="2019-10-30T10:33:23.993" Score="2" ViewCount="2064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been letting it sit for 10 days and it is still not 40%. I would like to know how to raise alcohol content in my rum while it is still in the process of fermentation. There are bubbles rising from the bottom and I am not sure what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17739" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-10-30T10:40:24.333" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T13:19:58.610" Title="How can I raise alcohol content in my rum?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|alcohol-content|alcohol|distillation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24600" CreationDate="2019-10-30T13:19:58.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not achieve 40% using fermentation as the only technique.  Yeast have a certain alcohol tolerance that is usually between 14% and 18% (wine yeast), above that percentage, yeast will stop working.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending of your yeast strain (check the yeast pack for this information), it should stop working around the alcohol tolerance (more or less).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To raise the alcohol content, you need to either mix another rum with yours, or use distillation. I cannot provide any information regarding distillation, there are risks if not done properly and depending of where you are from, it might not be legal at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe next time, you can try to use the yeast that has the highest alcohol tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T13:19:58.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24604" CreationDate="2019-10-31T04:10:58.733" Score="3" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;Alright, so I've gone and over-primed a 5 gallon amber batch when bottling. Surprisingly, there is limited solid information available so I figured I would ask for feedback and then post the results hoping this proves useful for others.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 gallons of Amber ale, bottled into 12oz bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 weeks in primary fermenter at 65-67F, so initial fermentation certainly done (no OG/FG sorry)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Appx ABV 6-7%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Primed with 1lb of DME instead of 1.25 cups (so somewhere between 2.5-3x desired amount)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimal O2 in bottles outside of what's in headspace and whatever was in solution during primary fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle storage temperatures 66-68F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current Status:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;48 hours post bottling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Opting to keep in bottles to prevent oxidation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tonight I lifted cap edges enough to allow to offgas completely overnight with starsan and foil cover to prevent contamination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Currently plan to reseal tomorrow morning and fully recap in the next couple of days for final storage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I've taken these steps to prevent bottle bombs, minimize oxidation, prevent infection, and generally allow the least amount of hassle/extra work. My dilema is that I'm having trouble finding a good chart of sugar consumption to know when to recap. Based on a couple obscure OG/FG charts plotted over days I'm seeing for ales that most sugars are consumed within the first 3-4 days. As @brewchez points out below that I originally did not consider, how does O2 affect sugar consumption rates? I would love to not have flat beer but definitely don't need bombs so does anyone know about sugar consumption rates during fermentation? Based on what I'm seeing I should be able to safely recap either on the third or fourth day and let the beer do it's thing without problem as most of the sugars have been consumed. Am I missing anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I need help with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do any of you good people have solid info/knowledge about sugar consumption rates over time during beer fermentation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I fully recap for conditioning at day 3, 4, or 5?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does low O2 like there should be when bottle carbonating/conditioning slow sugar consumption?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Edit/Update: Two weeks post recapping with good carbonation, no bursting, and good flavor. The solution mentioned below by @brewchaz worked nicely to determine when to recap. Ended up being 3.5 days for me and has had no ill effects. Ultimately, I decided to fully uncap all bottles for 12 hours after trying the intermittent offgassing approach as I was getting very inconsistent results with amounts offgassed, and I desired all beers to be flat when recapped. Thanks for the help!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17735" LastEditorUserId="17735" LastEditDate="2019-11-20T17:08:34.657" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T17:08:34.657" Title="Over-primed for bottle conditioning. How many days to blow off carbonation before allowing to resume?" Tags="|beer|bottling|bottle-conditioning|priming|over-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24603" CreationDate="2019-10-31T10:47:21.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too many variables to predict the rate.  That's why you can't find a chart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature, ABV of beer, yeast cell count per bottle, yeast viability, residual extract in beer (related to FG), dissolved O2:  All these things contribute to your specific question about rate. It is not going to be universal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to sacrifice a few bottles along the way and do hydrometer readings until the gravity of the beer is close to what it should have been with the proper amount of priming sugar in it.  Then re-cap.  That's the most scientific way to do it.  Problems though:  1. Its going to happen pretty fast you might have already missed it.  2. You need a FG specific hydrometer for the sensitivity.  3. If you don't have the FG before you primed then you really don't know how many gravity points represent the priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-10-31T10:47:21.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="301" CreationDate="2019-10-31T19:12:35.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's actually going to be pretty difficult to cause excess oxidation if you aren't doing it intentionally or performing extra transfers. If you've had uneven priming then you are going to need to up your mixing game. Jeff's method is going to be foolproof for all methods that aren't just adding syrup to your mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe some context will help ease your mind/paranoia. I would argue that your transfer from carboy to bottling container is the largest oxidation risk as that leaves the most surface area exposed which is why we leave the tube in the liquid during transfer when possible and not running down the side. The surface area to volume ratio in a 1/16th inch deep stream running down the side of a bucket is really high. In a bucket, only the very top layer is exposed to air even with gentle stirring. It's almost nothing compared to the total volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's like a fish tank. Without intentional aeration of some sort fish will die due to lack of oxygen in a relatively short period of time. Vigorous splashing or mechanical bubblers are the only way to put enough oxygen in solution for survival. While not exactly the same it gives an idea of the lengths needed to meaningfully increase oxygen levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17735" LastActivityDate="2019-10-31T19:12:35.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24352" CreationDate="2019-11-01T09:26:27.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pasteurizing juice will most certainly not 'spoil' it, but it may alter the flavor. Generally speaking, heating something sensitive will make it taste &quot;cooked&quot; instead of &quot;Fresh&quot;. IE, baked apple, as opposed to fresh apple. This might be alright for something like apple (depending on preference), but it would probably be terrible for, say, cucumber. (I wonder how cucumber IPA would be...?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pasteurizing at lower temperatures may preserve more of the flavor.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;It depends on the compound, and the environment (such as PH, sugar levels, minerals, etc), but higher temperatures tend to have a more dramatic effect than long pasteurization times. However, some sensitive flavor compounds may be rapidly lost at any effective pasteurization temperature, as is the case with the highly sensitive oils of aromatic hop varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course skip pasteurization altogether, but &lt;strong&gt;going without pasteurizing allows wild fermentation&lt;/strong&gt;, which could impact the flavor greatly. It's not often done with beer outside of specific styles, but for ciders, wild fermentation is fairly common. Despite the seeming odds, aside from ABV limit, wild yeasts seem to be more likely to exhibit desirable or inconsequential traits than they are bad ones, and can even posses qualities unavailable commercially. However, it is inherently random (it is up to whatever strain dominates the area, in this case the farm's juicing room/equipment.), and you could also end up with bacterial agents instead of yeast, resulting in vinegar, or worse. (As far as I know, the result is generally 'safe' but may be unappealing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One alternative to pasteurization would be to use metabisulfite chemical treatments&lt;/strong&gt;. IE, Campden tablets. Campden is a sanitation agent that dissipates over time. It can be used to, in effect, pasteurize without needing heat. (It is not as effective as pasteurization, but it can give your yeast a head start compared to other populations that may have been present.) Note that you need to wait around 24 hours after treatment before adding yeast, or else the yeast will be impaired. I feel I also should mention that there are some claims of health concerns, as well as people who may be allergic to the sulphites that Campden will leave, so be aware of a potential risk there. It is commonly used in commercial wines, nonetheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final note on ciders... unlike beer, the sugars in cider are very easily fermented away comepletely, leaving a very tart, bone dry product that can taste... wrong. Aging for a few months seems to help, but some amount of back-sweetening may be needed to strike a good balance. Of course, this is up to preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17287" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T09:26:27.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="301" CreationDate="2019-11-01T18:42:26.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxidation due to the introduction of oxygen during packaging is an important concern for all packaging methods &lt;em&gt;EXCEPT&lt;/em&gt; for when you are priming and bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast cells that are actively consuming sugars in the presence of oxygen actively and efficiently consume all of the available oxygen. Since you are priming (adding sugar), you can count on your yeast to consume the oxygen while they produce your carbonation. The same argument holds if you are priming and conditioning in a keg (assuming that you serve from the keg using pressurized carbon dioxide to push the beer out of the keg, rather than a hand pump).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are force-carb (or even prime and condition) in a keg and then fill bottles with a counter-pressure filler, you absolutely should be worried about the introduction of oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you can count on any (reasonable) amount of oxygen that is introduced while priming to be quickly eaten by the yeast, you should make sure that your priming sugar is well mixed into your beer before filling your bottles. Lack of proper mixing is a much bigger risk to your final product than over-mixing (and introducing extra oxygen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3003" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T18:42:26.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="680" CreationDate="2019-11-03T18:14:59.273" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mix cane sugar and water in proportions to get the abv you desire, ferment like you normally would. Obtain a box of fountain soda syrup, I suggest a local restaurant as a source, mix syrup in after fermentation and carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17747" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-11-04T13:50:58.380" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T13:50:58.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-03T19:19:44.587" Score="2" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will this cause a problem in the fermentation process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first batch was fermenting fine but this batch the water is up way higher and I'm wondering if that's why I'm getting no bubbling so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewed yesterday, temp @pitch 65f. &#xA;Yeast: Wyeast 1010 American Wheat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Tried to upload picture wouldn't let me. But basically on the right side there is no water, it's all on the left side of the airlock way past the max level line)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17749" LastActivityDate="2019-11-03T20:41:58.017" Title="Water is way past the max level line on airlock" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24609" CreationDate="2019-11-03T20:41:58.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The airlock level won't hurt anything.  It's fine.  Wait another 12-24 hours and I'll bet you'll have healthy fermentation happening.  If not, then add more yeast.  It's more likely to be impatience or possibly a yeast health issue.  My rule of thumb is about 36 hours before I begin to worry and add more yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-11-03T20:41:58.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24628" CreationDate="2019-11-04T15:39:08.770" Score="3" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently made a wit and used Wyeast WLP 3944. I didn't have time to make a starter and only had one package of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beersmith estimated the package to be around 66% viable given the date on the package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the yeast took a really long time to get going and the kraüsen lasted for a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer turned out great, but there's a hint of banana on the nose. I've read that under pitching hefe yeast is a method for achieving a large banana presence on the nose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that under pitching the 3944 has resulted in the banana aroma. Does this sound correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do want to remake this beer and adequately pitch the yeast which brings me to my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will pitching the yeast cake from the previous stressed batch result in the same unintended banana aroma? Should I throw out the yeast cake and make a starter using a new package of yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16487" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T15:28:56.263" LastActivityDate="2019-11-15T07:36:32.053" Title="Pitching stressed yeast cake (Wit)" Tags="|reusing-yeast|trub|pitch|banana|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24599" CreationDate="2019-11-04T15:42:00.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RIMS can denature your enzymes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest risk with a RIMS is the small volume or wort that is heated at a time. The result is often the enzymes are denatured because of the contact with the heating element. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be limited or even completly overcome by moving the wort faster through the RIMS. Also the temp probe for the heating element should be as close to the heating element as possible and use a short delay on the PID. Then its much easier to not allow the wort in RIMS heater to hit denaturing temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T15:42:00.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-04T21:04:14.613" Score="2" ViewCount="316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pressed about 40 L worth of apple juice 12 days ago. Sweet cider was put into a carboy and foamed heavily after 3 or 4 days for about a week with consitent airlock activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past two days, the thick foam has gone down to the point where it has disapeared, which I guess is normal in wild fermented cider as it starts secondary fermentation. However, airlock bubbling has stopped, which I'm unsure if it's a normal symptom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Does airlock activity diminish when transitioning from primary to secondary fermentation? Should I expect airlock activity to come back in the next following days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how my brew is looking today:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8b9Bv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8b9Bv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I tried the cider. I think it's a bit low in alcohol content. I previously red that ca. 70 % of alcohol content is provided by primary fermentation. In case my cider ends up a bit short in alcohol, can I add some sugar then or is it better to do it now? Could that be the cause of not having any airlock activity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner, and I hope this questions are still interesting to some of you that want to attempt a wild fermentation. Please forgive me if all this is too obvious for some of the most experienced brewers here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17713" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-11-05T17:11:05.333" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T18:03:20.577" Title="Stuck fermentation on wild fermented cider?" Tags="|fermentation|cider|stuck-fermentation|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24613" CreationDate="2019-11-05T17:04:11.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is absolutely normal to have a vigorous fermentation for a few days and have it slow down afterwards.  The activity of the airlock is by no means a reliable information to know when the fermentation is completed.  You really should get an hydrometer (fairly cheap) and measure residual sugar content (gravity).  An hydrometer will at least tell you if the fermentation is completed.  Knowing the alcohol content just by tasting is unprecise, you can try a vinometer, but that tool requires the wine to be fermented dry (no residual sugar) or it wont work as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing with wild yeast is that you never know how it is going to ferment. What you are referring to as a secondary fermentation is &lt;em&gt;often&lt;/em&gt; just the process of clearing the cider or stabilization, although there is sometimes a malolactic fermentation that occur after the primary fermentation in wines, it is not always the case. In any case, it will never be as vigorous as the first fermentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know that fermentation is completed, you can add more sugar to increase the alcohol content if you like, but doing it before and without measuring is risky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I previously red that ca. 70 % of alcohol content is provided by primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, maybe it was written that 70% of the alcohol production occurs in the first vigorous phase of the fermentation, not to confuse with a total of 70% of ABV in your final drink...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-11-05T17:04:11.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-05T22:23:48.333" Score="4" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary fermentation for cider is going for 9 days and SG wend down from 1.052 to 1.005.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it normal to have such a low value before first racking?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I add sugar to rise SG to 1.015 and rack it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17751" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T15:26:09.957" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T15:26:09.957" Title="Is SG 1.005 OK for cider before first racking" Tags="|cider|specific-gravity|primary-fermentation|racking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24615" CreationDate="2019-11-06T03:53:03.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not uncommon to have SG fall that far after about 9 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding extra sugar at any point, at beginning, end, or at this point in between, is a matter of preference.  Be aware that the added sugar will continue to ferment to dryness and will simply increase the alcohol, unless you pasteurize or otherwise treat to kill off the yeast early.  In my &lt;em&gt;opinion&lt;/em&gt;, I do not recommend any sugar be added to any cider unless you want it to be more like a stronger apple wine.  That is up to your personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T03:53:03.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24615" CreationDate="2019-11-06T13:43:12.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can rack at any point, just be careful not to over expose your cider to air, to avoid oxidation.  There are tips (mostly for wine, but still) for that here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/22205/oxidation-of-red-wine-during-racking-and-bottling/22206#22206&quot;&gt;Oxidation of red wine during racking and bottling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personnaly, for my ciders and my wines, I prefer to rack the first time just before the end of fermentation.  The main reason is that fermentation will continue in the secondary and form a protective layer of CO2 on the surface.  1.015 is about right, but there is still enough CO2 in the cider, even when fermentation is completed, it is release to the surface slowly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you do not have to add sugar, unless you really want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T13:43:12.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-06T19:14:13.100" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;My corny keg has two O-rings on each post is this ok?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As my other keg only has one, do I leave both O-rings on or remove one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17756" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T20:19:34.067" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T20:19:34.067" Title="Corny keg post sizes" Tags="|kegging|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24620" CreationDate="2019-11-07T02:14:26.553" Score="1" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have successfully made several (at least 15) gallons of homemade wine, and only really had one come out undrinkable (was black cherry experiment, made a decent cooking wine) I started with a simple balloon and welches set up, amazed it worked, and got hooked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I digress...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have been playing with different sugar contents, how much alcohol I could get vs over sweet, and in general just playing. It always seems to work for the most part. Using gallon glass jugs, 4 going this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these batches have active bubbled and foamed for 4+ weeks, average temp 74°F and never shot higher than 19% ABV. I have used everything from grocery store bread yeast to Lavlin EC-1118. Stays active, tastes great, on average goes pretty dry and high alcohol. After it goes clear and settles, degas, bottled, and drank a couple months later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most everything I read though [about fermentation duration] states like days, or maybe couple of weeks max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I figured I would start getting some more experienced advice, and see what I am really dealing with. maybe start thinking smarter not harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried with and without yeast nutrient (Fermax), which seems to make it more aggressive but last just as long and no appreciable difference in end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if someone could nudge me in the correct direction on what to expect or do differently, all info welcome, and thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xhNrn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xhNrn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pear, Blueberry, and two Apples&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17757" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-11-07T13:08:47.940" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T15:15:10.253" Title="Slow but effective fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|wine|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24619" CreationDate="2019-11-07T13:37:55.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to &lt;strong&gt;use an hydrometer&lt;/strong&gt; to measure gravity if you want to know what is going on.  Foam and airlock bubbling activity is not a precise indication of an active fermentation.  Measure gravity before fermentation, and then every 3 days.  Usually, 3 days in a row of stable gravity means fermentation is done (or stuck!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When fermentation is done, &lt;strong&gt;there is still CO2 in the liquid&lt;/strong&gt; that is released slowly, giving the impression of an active fermentation.  Since you degas your wine, you already know that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;speed of fermentation depends on many factors&lt;/strong&gt;, like yeast cell count, temperature, pH, yeast nutrients, quantity of sugar, presence of oxygen, yeast alcohol tolerance...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ferment close to 19% ABV, you might have reached the &lt;strong&gt;yeast alcohol tolerance&lt;/strong&gt; threshold, and at that point it will slow down and eventually stop working.  You can use a yeast that has an higher alcohol tolerance, but 19% is already pretty high, although some can go up to 25%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you maintain a stable &lt;strong&gt;temperature&lt;/strong&gt; of 74°F (23°C), it is the ideal temperature for most yeast.  Check the yeast package for ideal range, the hotter the faster.  But a faster fermentation might produce a different taste in the final product, you must be aware of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most fruits juice already have sufficient natural &lt;strong&gt;yeast nutrients&lt;/strong&gt; and you don't need to add more.  Fermenting sugar only or mead, will requires the addition of nutrients. If fermetation starts within a day, it most probably doesn't need additional nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rarely &lt;strong&gt;measure pH&lt;/strong&gt;, mostly because I make the same beer/wine over and over, but if you try new fruits/recipe, you maybe should because: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The optimum pH for most micro-organisms is near the neutral point (pH 7.0). Moulds and yeasts are usually acid tolerant and are therefore associated with the spoilage of acidic foods. Yeasts can grow in a pH range of 4 to 4.5 and moulds can grow from pH 2 to 8.5, but favour an acid pH (Mountney and Gould, 1988).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy fruit juice, make sure it doesn't contain &lt;strong&gt;sulfites or sorbate&lt;/strong&gt;, because they will slow down fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more information about &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/article/stuck-fermentations-techniques/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stuck fermentation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many questions here on SE about fermentation, give the search a try and you will find a lot of information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-11-08T15:15:10.253" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T15:15:10.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5486" CreationDate="2019-11-07T16:24:55.777" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for high end, compact fermenter and dispenser at the same time, you might want to look at this one &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.getvessi.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.getvessi.com/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has built-in temperature control, CO2 pressure controls, a patented sediment removal system, and an integrated tap. It is small in size as well, compact to be used in kitchen and above all, it has an awesome design. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNBng.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNBng.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;vessi fermenter and dispenser&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to bottle your beer, you can have an extension for that as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17758" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T16:24:55.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-07T21:39:27.997" Score="3" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a kombucha brewer, and for a long time I have been trying to avoid SCOBY formation in the bottle during the second fermentation.&#xA;Does anyone know some way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17760" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-11-08T04:10:45.027" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T16:28:55.363" Title="How to avoid SCOBY in the Kombucha bottle? (second fermentation)" Tags="|bottling|secondary-fermentation|kombucha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2019-11-12T09:29:59.183" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I have been working on some software that is web based and gives you a complete guide to your brew day with all mash steps depending on your equipment profile and your mash profile.  We'd love to have any feedback on it and it's totally free to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brew-wizard.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brew-wizard.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17762" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T09:29:59.183" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-11-12T09:29:59.183" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2019-11-12T09:33:07.473" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I have been working on some software that is web based and gives you a complete guide to your brew day with all mash steps depending on your equipment profile and your mash profile. We'd love to have any feedback on it and it's totally free to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brew-wizard.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brew-wizard.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17762" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T09:33:07.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-13T01:10:57.127" Score="5" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had an issue with an oatmeal stout. I'm just starting to brew beer at home (&lt;em&gt;BIAB&lt;/em&gt;) and I think I made some mistakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my water at 80°C hoping for the decrease of temperature to 72°C when adding my grains. &#xA;So I just kept at it not knowing this was a problem. So my OG was at 1.070, recipe indicated it should be at 1.068. Then I put the beer in the fermenter and after 7 days the gravity dropped to 1.031, after 6 more days gravity was still at 1.031. I added another pack of Yeast Safale S-04, swirled around hoping for yeast to activate. &#xA;A week later, nothing. Gravity was still at 1.031. So I just bottled after adding some priming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A week later, my beer is flat and has too much body. Carbonation seems to be not happening (or struggling) since the beer is too dense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another strange thing I experienced was my airlock sucking my sanitizer solution into the fermenter. I don't know if this may affect something in the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'd really appreciate some insights if you know what is happening here.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Cheers!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17764" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-11-13T17:21:26.553" LastActivityDate="2019-11-18T23:14:35.063" Title="Having doubts about my first stout" Tags="|airlock|original-gravity|stuck-fermentation|stout|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24626" CreationDate="2019-11-13T07:53:35.570" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;At what temperature did you eventually mashed? Not sure how it works out with BIAB, but adding grains to a regular mash (even less volume compared to BIAB), the temperature only drops a few °C's. My guess is that if you added the grains at 80°C, you mashed at around 76/77°C. This is way too high, but 72°C is also too high. Mash temps range from 62-70C°, above that results in too much unfermentable sugars and thus a high FG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of sanitizer solution got into the fermenter? Most of them do no harm to the yeast, at least not in small quantities. Give it some more time, it can take more than a week to properly carbonate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-11-13T17:23:26.410" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T17:23:26.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24611" CreationDate="2019-11-15T07:36:32.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The esters which provide the banana aroma are only formed at the start of the fermentation, when the yeast grows and multiplies. And indeed underpitching is part of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after your first beer, the yeast has multiplied, and so if you would or had pitched your new beer on this yeast cake, no more (or much less) banana esters would have been formed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to that, apparently the monks of Westmalle underpitch their yeast to obtain the banana in Dubbel and Tripel. However, they have a microscope to count yeast cells, so that they can dose precisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-11-15T07:36:32.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24622" CreationDate="2019-11-16T02:05:21.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure it's possible. SCOBY does what she wants. She likes to make floating pancakes. The best you might hope for is a high fill with a super narrow neck to keep the SCOBY as small as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-11-16T02:05:21.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24626" CreationDate="2019-11-18T23:14:35.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you achieved the target gravity, then the mash worked OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the high temperature (producing unfermentable long-chain sugars) and the inclusion of the oatmeal - which contains a lot of unfermentable starches (and that's why we use it), you would be expecting a high final gravity.  Granted ~1.030 is about 5-10 points higher than where I'd expected that to finish, but then again, I've never mashed at 80°C, and maybe you used a lot of oats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It often takes more than a week for carbonation, especially in a higher-alcohol beer.  Just wait a couple of weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2019-11-18T23:14:35.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24635" CreationDate="2019-11-19T15:17:58.933" Score="3" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mead in secondary, looks to be going well. However, the lighting isn't totally dark. Also, there is a single dog hair in the carboy, but not touching the mead.  There seems to be very little oxygen, if any in the carboy. Should I take the hair out? Will the lighting or hair spoil the mead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T17:11:30.180" Title="Will this spoil?" Tags="|sanitation|mead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24461" CreationDate="2019-11-19T15:23:15.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 5 gallons a week, you're doing volumes that could justify a Buon Vino Super Jet, especially if you're batching your filtrations so you do four at a time or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a long background in wine filtering. Check the following links for more info&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General filtering discussion&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timvandergrift.com/?p=225&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.timvandergrift.com/?p=225&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the Mini Jet&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJcsoHPi0TM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJcsoHPi0TM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more winemaking stuff, check out this blog series that I did for a supplier&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.midwestsupplies.com/blogs/wine-making&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.midwestsupplies.com/blogs/wine-making&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bigger filters&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEZ-E9OBSBg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEZ-E9OBSBg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17777" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T15:23:15.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24633" CreationDate="2019-11-19T16:57:28.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it's on secondary, contamination risk is low, but for contaminants that have contact with the drink from now on. If the hair is there since the beginning of the fermentation, any possible contamination has already happened. Either way, it's better to remove the hair than to leave it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minor lighting shouldn't be a problem, sanitation is much more critical to the final result of a mead. My main concern is what the dog hair indicates about your sanitation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17506" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T16:57:28.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24633" CreationDate="2019-11-19T17:11:30.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am 95% confident that everything will turn out well.  I wouldn't worry about any of it.  Mead is difficult to get wrong assuming the fermentation is moving along and if you just leave it alone.  Moving it between vessels is far more likely to cause problems than just leaving it alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T17:11:30.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-20T18:54:56.087" Score="1" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm brewing an all-grain batch of the Rogue Chocolate Stout Clone based on this recipe (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipe/rogue-chocolate-stout-clone/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipe/rogue-chocolate-stout-clone/&lt;/a&gt;). I divided the recipe by 5 to get proper amounts for a smaller, 1 Gal batch, as this is my second brew, and I figure there's less to throw out if it's bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My OG reading was 1.022, which way undershot the expected OG of 1.069. For the first three days, it was going like gangbusters, lots of airlock activity and happy yeast, at a nice warm temperature of around 21 C. Today, it just stopped, even though the recipe suggests leaving it in primary for a week. I took a quick read, and the gravity dropped to 1.011 with a temp of 20 C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if I need to pitch more yeast, or if that's all I'm going to get, given the smaller quantity of wort and fermentable sugars to work with. It still needs to go through secondary with chocolate extract added. A quick tasting points to the fact that it's a bit watery, and the color is much lighter than I'd expect, but otherwise, it fits for what you'd expect an uncarbonated stout to taste like (malty, roasty).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong? Should I go ahead and transfer to secondary now, add more yeast, or do something else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17780" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-11-20T19:23:07.777" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T20:01:10.113" Title="Under OG, and only 3 days fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|all-grain|mash|original-gravity|stout|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24637" CreationDate="2019-11-20T19:17:49.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your OG was only 1.022, you must have done something wrong during crushing or mashing, it is way too far. You can test the conversion at the end of the mash using the iode test. This will give you an indication if the conversion was a success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you follow instructions regarding mashing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;To brew the Rogue Chocolate Stout clone homebrew recipe, mash at 150°F (65°C) for 60 minutes.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Sparge at 175°F (79°C) to collect 6.5 gallons (24.6 L) of pre-boiled wort.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Boil for 90 minutes. Cool to 60°F (16°C) and pitch yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you check the temperature throughout the mash?  When adding the grain to the water you will lose around 2°C depending on the grain temperature, you need to take that into account when heating your water.  Also, make sure to have sufficient water and to mix the water from time to time to get an even temperature in the mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was either, mash temperature, mash time, crushing and freshness of grain, inadequate sparging.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you boil uncovered?  Maybe there was not enough evaporation during the boil, which would lower the OG as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering your OG of 1.022, your FG is likely reached at 1.011, since the recipe mention an estimated FG of 1.017.  Unless you add sugar, the fermentation is probably done.  You can continue the process and finish with a 2% beer or try to improve it with DME or LME as you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option is to repeat the experience and if it works better, mix the two batches together (or not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T19:17:49.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15845" CreationDate="2019-11-20T22:14:45.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm amazed nobody has mentioned caustic soda, aka NaOH, aka lye. This is an industry standard for removing organic deposits, and works amazingly. It is corrosive, so needs to be handled with care, but I've not found anything that does a better job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T22:14:45.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24644" CreationDate="2019-11-21T01:38:08.543" Score="2" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing my first batch of home brew, '&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2785/6868/t/3/assets/HanksHefeweizen-1564752622796.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hank's Hefeweizen&lt;/a&gt;' from Norther Brewer (extract). The instructions say 2 weeks primary, 2 weeks secondary, and 2 weeks bottle conditioning. I did not check my OG, but the kit states that it should be 1.052.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am on day 10 of fermentation. I checked the SG at days 8 and 10, and it has not changed from day 8 to 10. It's sitting at 1.010. I tried the beer on both days and it tastes like beer (it's really good) and is somewhat carbonated. It's cloudy, but not more cloudy that some hazy IPAs I've had recently and doesn't have anything floating around I wouldn't want to drink. I do not plan on doing secondary fermentation as I keep reading that it's really not required unless you are making a strong beer, dry hopping or adding fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also plan on kegging instead of bottling. Luckily I already have a corney keg and kegerator from when I used to make carbonated water, so I plan on skipping bottling and kegging/force carbonating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was originally planning on leaving the beer in the primary fermenter for 4 weeks (2 weeks primary, plus the 2 weeks that should/could have been in secondary, but in the primary since I chose not to do secondary fermentation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the beer tastes good now, why wouldn't I be able to keg it right now? I'm not in a hurry, I'm just wondering what the point of waiting is if the fermentable sugar is gone and there are no off flavors that will be reduced. It does not seem that further conditioning is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm at the point I can keg it, do I need to 'cold crash' in the primary fermenter before moving to the keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 3:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I move the beer from the primary fermenter to the keg, can I use the spigot that's on the bucket or do I need to siphon it? I would have used the spigot if I was moving from primary to a secondary fermenter, but is there a reason I should siphon if I'm skipping secondary fermenting? Perhaps using a siphon help me avoid all of the gunk on the bottom of the bucket? That being said, the gunk seems to be below my spigot anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 4:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Priming sugar is not necessary if I'm kegging and force carbonating, is that correct? Could I use priming sugar to cause carbonation in the corney keg and only use CO2 to push the beer to the tap? i.e. naturally carbonate in keg and then serve with CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm indeed ready to keg this, why is my beer ready in 10 days vs the 4 week recommendation that the kit states (2 primary, 2 secondary). To be fair, the kit instructions say 'timing is somewhat flexible' during secondary fermentation, but that timing is still technically at least a week or two away. It seems strange that the beer is drinkable so far ahead of schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&#xA;A few additonal questions that arose after an answer was given:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I rack to the corney keg, am I ok to use the large hole on the top? It seems like lots of oxygen could be introduced going this route. Or is it necessary to go through the whole process of filling the corney keg with sanitizer, then CO2, then filling via the liquid out post (while releasing venting the gas post)? Or is that overkill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to say that &lt;strong&gt;in general&lt;/strong&gt; kegging/bottling can commence when the beer tastes good? I don't need to worry about sticking too much to a schedule? It seems like conditioning is more of a matter of personal preference? I don't see how much my beer could change in flavor at this point by waiting a few more weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17781" LastEditorUserId="17781" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T19:20:49.437" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T15:57:32.437" Title="First Time Brewer: Skipping secondary fermentation, bottling and a few other questions" Tags="|kegging|first-time-brewer|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24655" CreationDate="2019-11-21T02:47:46.397" Score="4" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please, what are the major differences between brewing with all grain versus brewing with dry malt extract, besides the amount of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T03:08:21.810" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T00:44:30.670" Title="All Grain vs Dry Malt Extract" Tags="|all-grain|extract-brewing|extract-plus-grains|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-21T13:46:28.680" Score="4" ViewCount="727" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying my first batch of ginger beer and decided to make it with ginger bug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to achieve is a bit sweet ginger beer with max alcohol my ginger bug can handle, I read somwhere it is 4-5% and it would be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My ginger beer will ferment in flip top bottles, I'm going to open them once or twice a day to avoid excessive pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll add an unknown (I have to dig more, don't know where to find this) amount of sugar to carbonize them after the first fermentation is complete.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I'll bottle them in standard beer bottles with caps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, from what I read, it is kinda difficult to make a sweet ginger beer because it may explode the bottles due to the fermentation continuing after the bottling process. Is it possible to stop the fermentation other than pasteurizing ? Will the excessive amount of alcohol produced by the fermentation stop it and make the last carbonization process impossible ? What is the correct process of doing this ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is so much to learn about all this I fear I may miss something. I don't have measuring tools (since it's my first batch I'll wait to see the result and if it pleases me I'll invest in some tools).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I heard about non-fermentable sugars but also that it adds a weird taste, so if I can avoid it: good. I'm also trying to use the least ingredients possible (except for spicing where I'll go crazy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17785" LastEditorUserId="17785" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T14:03:39.053" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T23:20:13.140" Title="How to make an optimal fermentation for ginger beer with ginger bug" Tags="|fermentation|sugar|alcohol-content|ginger-beer|alcohol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24641" CreationDate="2019-11-21T14:08:53.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Control over color is the first thing and the biggest.  Even the lightest DME will make beer darker than an all grain made with pilsner to the same gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Control over body.  All extract, DME included, tends to finish a little higher in gravity points post fermentation than when brewing with all grain.  There are ways to help improve the difference in fermentability of DME but straight up gravity for gravity in a fair comparison all-grain wins here too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Control over the ingredients.  DME isn't always just one malt.  Some of them have a little crystal or dextrine malt added.  Who knows why really?  It's not every brand, but it's hard to find out sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't to say you can make great beers with DME.  I did it for years before going all-grain.  Using specialty grains for the flavor.  And doing some other tricks to improve fermentability when I wanted the beer to be dry.  (IPAs and Belgians for instance)&#xA;The thing all-grain gets to over any extract is flexibility.  It comes at the cost of time and complexity.  When time is tight I wonder why not just go to an all DME base method of brewing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, myself and a friend &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/1641526408&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;just wrote a book on all extract brewing&lt;/a&gt;. It mostly focuses on making beer with the lightest DME possible.  There are 30 recipes in the book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T14:08:53.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24640" CreationDate="2019-11-21T18:21:56.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A weizenbeer can be bottled/kegged after a week and conditioned for two weeks, or bottled/kegged after two weeks and conditioned for a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not cold crash a weizen. Presence of yeast is part of the style. (Note: that might be a weak point of kegging w.r.t. weizenbeer, in that yeast is probably not tapped after it drops out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could indeed use priming sugar. Either way, if you use priming sugar or CO2, go for 4 volumes of CO2 for a weizen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose that the instructions are somewhat generic, most beers are indeed (rule of thumb) 2 weeks fermentation, two weeks bottling at room temperature, 2 weeks conditioning at a lower temperature. Weizen with real weizen yeast (not Belgian Wit) is faster to ferment and condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T18:21:56.943" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24641" CreationDate="2019-11-21T20:10:46.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost - It costs much less per batch (in the long run) to make beer from grain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Control - You have much more control over the brewing process. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time - I know you said you know this, but this is the main reason people go extract. The mash time adds over an hour to your brewing day from getting the water up to temperature to mashing to running off the wort. Add 1-2 hours to your brewing day. Although, if you read some of Brulosphy's Short and Shoddy series, you'll see  you can brew all grain beers that are fairly good in about 2 hours from start to finish. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People mention that it's much easier to make an extract beer, but in today's homebrewing world, I would disagree. If you keep it simple and do a BIAB or mash in a cooler, it couldn't be simpler. It just takes up more room and cost more for equipment, but not that much more. Maybe less than $100 for a cooler and false bottom and valve for the cooler. On the other side, with all grain I can brew a 5% alcohol pale ale for about $10 in ingredients (bulk grain purchases and bulk hops). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are living in an apartment and just don't have the room, then I would do extract, otherwise, all grain is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T20:10:46.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24640" CreationDate="2019-11-22T15:57:32.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the questions have been answered by chthon already, but some additional notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hefe is a fast style, the usual hefe yeast is a very fast fermenter and there is no need for a secondary or cold crashing. Cloudy/yeasty beer is part of the style. Make sure it is done fermenting, then start drinking asap! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On question 3 and the new question 1: Yes you can transfer it using the spigot, but be careful not to introduce oxygen. Use a tube from the spigot to the bottom of the keg and fill it up from the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 4: Not a kegger myself, so maybe someone else reading knows the answer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New question 2: No. Yeast activity is leading here, not your taste buds ;). You are correct that a time schedule is only a rough estimate and conditioning is indeed a personal preference. But if the yeast is still active and producing CO2, you should not keg or bottle it. But if the gravity of the beer is stable for a few days, that is a green light to proceed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the kits I used to brew all came with the same instructions, despite the style or gravity of the beer. Probably cheaper to print or something. Best to do your own research about typical brewing guidelines for certain styles. I mean, cold crashing a hefe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T15:57:32.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24249" CreationDate="2019-11-22T23:38:16.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't done barrel fermenting but it's quite common in Burgundy with Chardonnay. Usually, its done in neutral barrels. The reason it's done is that it adds complexity and mouthfeel to the finished product because of the interaction with oak. The process is to crush, press and rack into barrels and pitch the yeast and ferment in the barrel. No skins involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though I have made barrel aged Chardonnays, I have never barrel fermented. I always fermented in stainless tanks and then moved to barrels. First, it's hard to see how full the barrel should be and sometimes the fermentation throws a lot of foam. Unless you have a lot of head space, you can't just slap an airlock on in a bung on there. I've seen guys just loosely put a bung on the barrel and let it foam all over the winery floor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people conduction MLF at the same time as yeast fermentation or shortly afterwards when there is no sulfites present. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After it's done, you will need to sacrifice the wine in some barrels to top up in the other ones if you want to continue to age in barrel and on the lees. If you just want to age on the lees, I would just put in a stainless tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a tiny bit of color picked up from the barrel fermentation process. Kind of depends on how much of the char is left in the barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just google barrel fermented chardonnay and you'll get more results than you could possibly look at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T23:38:16.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-23T15:40:26.133" Score="1" ViewCount="2053" Body="&lt;p&gt;My ginger bug had been 3 days bubbling and fizzing, but now it's stopped bubbling and smells too much of fermented ginger, can somebody help me? please?&#xA;I need help urgently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17794" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2019-11-25T12:48:21.673" LastActivityDate="2019-12-25T13:01:10.100" Title="does my ginger bug have mold?" Tags="|yeast|carbonation|ginger-beer|ginger|mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24642" CreationDate="2019-11-24T23:04:54.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right so there's no &quot;optimal&quot; method for this, brewing is a balancing act between sweetness, alcohol, carbonation-pressure and yeast.  Even things like the shape of the fermentation vessel effect the performance of the yeast.  You will always need a little trial and tweaking, and this is part of the fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a ginger beer &quot;bug&quot; (or &quot;plant&quot;) is typically a wild yeast culture in a gingery sugar-syrup.  Some recipes call for the addition of brewer's or baker's yeast into the mix.  For me, doing this ceases to make it a bug/plant.  If you want to use cultured yeast, that's fine (and probably a good idea for repeatability), but it's no longer a bug/plant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can you make a bug?  Generally you start with a sugar water of a ratio 1:10 by weight. That's 10° Plato, or 1.040 specific gravity.  Boil this to sanitise it.  When we made these as kids, we always added a teaspoon of ground ginger too.  I don't know for certain what this brings to the party, ginger is anti-bacterial though. When it's cool we added some sultanas (dried grapes).  The yeasts on the skin of the fruit will colonise the sugar-water.  You could probably use any sort of fruit-skin here.  Honey naturally also contains a lot of wild yeasts (as long as it hasn't been pasteurised etc.).  Cover your bug with plastic-film, or another sort of covering. Do not screw on a tight-fitting lid!  The yeast &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; produce gas and pressurise the container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since we're talking &quot;optimal&quot; methods, it would be best to add some yeast nutrient to this sugar-water, since pure sugar is a bit unhealthy for yeast (follow the manufacturer's recommendation on amounts).  Or use malt-extract instead of sugar, since it contains more of the minerals yeast need to grow well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sugar-water is also a great environment for bacteria.  Pre-acidifying the sugar-water to below 4.5pH with some kind of food-grade acid, like citric acid,  will reduce the chance of bacterial spoilage.  Alternatively the sugar-water could be boiled with the addition of a few hop-pellets - the hops don't need to be boiled for their anti-bacterial properties to work, it's just a convenient time to add them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave the bug (with fruit) for a few days in a warm (~22°C / 70°F) area.  If it's too cold the yeast will not grow as quickly.  If it's too hot the water will evaporate.  In a few days to a week you should see some bubbles and a scum forming on the top of the liquid.  This is the yeast growing.  There may also be some other moulds (yeast &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a mould).  If these are brightly coloured (red/yellow/black), it's not safe to eat, discard the bug.  After a week (or two) the yeast will consume all the sugar in the sample, and drop to the bottom.  It will form a creamy-white film on the bottom of the jar.  You can use this amount of yeast right now, or decant the liquid off the top and add more sugar-water to grow the yeast further.  It depends on the batch-size of your ginger beer as to how much yeast is needed.  It will still work no matter what, but the time taken will be longer with less yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But!  Do you even care that it's made with wild yeast?  If not, it's possible to simply use a packet of brewer's yeast, or even bread yeast.  This will be more reliable, simpler and quicker.  Personally, I would use a teaspoon of bread yeast, or brewer's yeast to be fancy (e.g.: Safale US-05 ).  But I always have bread yeast on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we've just about covered the yeast / bug / plant side of things.  There's plenty of further reading on this.  Essentially you're &quot;Capturing Wild Yeast&quot;.  Duck-Duck-Go that term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mutedog.beer/blog/how-to-harvest-wild-yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://mutedog.beer/blog/how-to-harvest-wild-yeast/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://canadahomebrews.ca/2018/10/01/capturing-and-brewing-with-local-canadian-yeasts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://canadahomebrews.ca/2018/10/01/capturing-and-brewing-with-local-canadian-yeasts/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bootlegbiology.com/diy/capturing-yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://bootlegbiology.com/diy/capturing-yeast/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right so that covers the yeast.  Now onto the beer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First a simple fact about fermentation:  Unless the amount of alcohol has become toxic to the yeast (typically 12~14%), or until the sugar is all consumed, fermentation &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; continue.  To stop fermentation you must pasteurise the beer.  Putting the beer in the fridge will only &lt;em&gt;slow&lt;/em&gt; it down.  It's just about impossible to filter out the yeast on a home-brew scale.  Even clear beer can have ~100 million cells / ml.  Additives like potassium sorbate can be &lt;a href=&quot;https://eckraus.com/wine-making-stop-fermentation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;added to stop the yeast&lt;/a&gt; multiplying, but that's getting into quite an advanced topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So ... because the yeast keeps processing sugar, people are naturally quite wary about putting yeast-carbonated beverages into bottles.  The pressure builds up to the point where bottles can explode.  Even champagne bottles (typically rated to 7 volumes of CO2) can explode.  A PET plastic bottle (assuming it's un-scratched, etc.) can hold a little more pressure than a normal glass soft-drink/soda bottle - but when it breaks, there's no flying shards of glass.  Quality used (or new) PET bottles would be a good choice for ginger beer storage. Do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; use bottles for pressurised drinks unless they are designed for it.  Cheap glass bottles from homewares stores typically are not OK.  Use recycled PET or beer bottles instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a yeasty beverage is put into bottles for carbonation, this is under the assumption that the existing fermentation is complete.  A small amount of sugar (typically 5 grams per litre for ~ 2 volumes of CO2) is added so the yeast re-starts fermentation to carbonate in the bottle, but without going over the pressure rating of the vessel.  So with your flip-top bottles, do not seal them until you are &lt;em&gt;sure&lt;/em&gt; fermentation is complete.  How do you know?  Use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydrometer / saccharometer&lt;/a&gt;, or taste it.  If it's still sweet, it's (probably) not done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more sugar you put into your beer, the more alcohol it will eventually contain.  About a 10% sugar-water (by weight) will typically ferment out to 4-5% AbV alcohol.  Strongly sugared environments become difficult for the yeast to ferment, so if you add a lot of sugar, the yeast will ferment to the point where the alcohol is toxic (to the yeast), but still leave some sugar behind.  However, this makes the beer difficult to then carbonate.  The large concentration of sugar is itself bad for the yeast because it puts osmotic pressure on the cell walls, so this can also result in a poor fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During fermentation the yeast will foam up, putting a ring of gunk around the top of the container.  This is absolutely normal.  I would allow at least two weeks for fermentation to finish at room temperatures.  If it's too cold (say &amp;lt; 17C) fermentation will slow dramatically, but will re-start when temperatures warm.  It's best-practice to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winesandwinemaking.com/hydrometer.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;use a hydrometer&lt;/a&gt; to check the progress of the fermentation, but many people do without them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So say you started with a 10% sugar (by weight) water, with some amount of ginger and (maybe) lemon to taste.  You fermented with enough yeast, at room temperatures.  After about two weeks, it would be normal to expect fermentation to be complete.  Your hydrometer reading would be around 1.005 (very low), it may even be less than 1.00.  Dissolve 5 grams per litre of table-sugar to the beer, and put into santised pressure-rated bottles.  In another week (or two), these should be carbonated.  If you use PET bottles, simply squeezing the bottles will allow you to determine if carbonation has happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this beer is too dry (that is, has little remaining sweetness), back-sweeten in the glass with some sugar, honey, etc.  You can of course also drink the beer mid-carbonation, putting it into the fridge to slow (but not stop) fermentation; then drink them when desired. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2019-11-24T23:20:13.140" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T23:20:13.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24649" CreationDate="2019-11-25T03:21:01.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a mould (fungus), so you &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; your ginger bug to have mould.  If it has brightly coloured mould - black, red, yellow, discard it.  Generally yeast will stay in suspension for a while, before settling to the bottom, making a creamy-white layer.  While it's fermenting, yeast produces a lot of weird smells.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's stopped bubbling, the yeast has probably used-up all the sugar.  If you want to grow more yeast, let the yeast settle to the bottom, then decant the clear liquid on top, then add more pre-boiled 10% sugar-water.  (Or if your vessel is large enough, just add more without decanting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also put it in the fridge if you are not currently planning on using it.  This will slow down any fermentation activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T03:21:01.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-25T19:05:39.763" Score="2" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Refractometer when I brew mostly for the boil off phase of an all grain batch. This helps me make sure I get to the exact FG I want for the specific type of beer. It works well and I don’t have problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day while drinking one of my Märzen beers I wondered what the gravity of my beer would be now. Even though I’d taken the FG before racking and knew it was on point. So I took a few drops adjusted for temperature and took a reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My FG for this beer was 1.013 - I racked to keg and then force carbonated. What was the reading of my beer now (?) 1.025&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was shocked. This must be a mistake I thought - I knew the bubbles would increase the buoyancy and so the gravity but that would have a bigger effect on a hydrometer surely? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve subsequently brewed and tested all through the forced carbonation process and yes the gravity rose.  I estimate that a carbonation level of 2.5 - 3 gives you a gravity reading of 1.025 - 1.035. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else experienced this? &#xA;It is an adequate measure of carbonation levels?&#xA;Where could one find out more about the relationship between gravity and carbonation levels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16485" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T22:23:27.570" Title="Using Refractometer to measure Carbonation Level" Tags="|carbonation|measurements|refractometer|light|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24410" CreationDate="2019-11-25T19:31:06.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like @dmtaylor answer, but here is mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plant as much as possible, the widest variety possible.  Perhaps I would plant the most popular in the bigger quantity, but I would still grow other variety in smaller quantity.  You should definetively talk to local brew pub owners about not only what they use, but also what they would like to try in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the local micro brew scene is very active, they will expand and experiment new beers, and that requires not only the most popular hops, but a wide choice.  Add some saaz, nugget, fuggle, (east kent) golding to the mix already mentionnend by dmtaylor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T19:31:06.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24641" CreationDate="2019-11-27T00:44:30.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom line difference is control over what sugars and protiens you have in your wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All tricky beer styles can be produced using DME/LME but will require other steps, adjuncts or enzymes to do it right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem with extracts is they are all usually mashed at 154-156 to make the most versatile wort possible. Giving it a good balance or fermentables, unfermentables and body protiens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this baseline average wort falls short for many recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple examples:&#xA;Brut or dry beers. Extracts have too much unfermentable sugars make these styles without adding enzymes to the wort in fermentation. Where a simple beta-a mash does very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many extracts lack good proteins for head retention and body. Requiring adjunct malts for steeping. Step mashing base grains gives you control over this with out using specialty grains for proteins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there's the issue of freshness. Its basically the difference between fresh mashed potatoes or instant (DME). Pasta sauce from the produce isle and made from scratch or a can (LME)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T00:44:30.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24657" CreationDate="2019-11-27T02:05:06.000" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a number of successful brews, I think I finally have a contaminated batch.  I've always been good about sanitation (or so I thought) but I've steadily progressed from paranoid germophobe to a bit more relaxed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that it's not possible for anyone to definitively say what went wrong - but I'd still like to learn from this experience.  As you'll see, this wasn't one of my better brew days!  Wasn't a true disaster...but it was close.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: &lt;strong&gt;Of all the possible sources of contamination, are there any that stand out as more likely than others?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possible pellicle in the carboy, but nothing dramatic.  Just a faint white skin over part of the surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carboy smelled okay (not foul) before bottling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A sample tasted okay - not great, maybe a bit &quot;thin&quot; with less flavor than expected, but not obviously horrible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;REALLY BAD smell in the yeast cake after bottling.  Much like that anaerobic bacteria smell from leftovers that are forgotten in a sealed container.  The yeast cake also had more of a rubbery &quot;mat&quot; texture than a typical yeast sediment texture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how the brew process went.  It didn't go quite like I wanted!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First time with a partial-volume boil.  Started with 2.5gal in a 6gal kettle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the boil, added 3gal bottled distilled water to the kettle before transferring.  (Metal didn't get hot enough to kill bugs on the sides of the kettle above the boiling wort, before adding water?  Bugs in the distilled water or on the containers?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Siphoned warm wort to glass carboy (carboy and tubing were sanitized, but maybe not completely??)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wort did NOT get chilled like normal.  I wasn't able to use my chiller, and assumed adding 3gal refrigerated water would be enough - but it only took it to about 100F.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Figured this was too hot and would stress the yeast, so I loosely covered the mouth of the carboy with plastic wrap and ran some errands in town. (plastic wrap wasn't sanitized, but I figured it would be okay at the time)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After about 3 hours, it had only cooled to 90F.  I was getting nervous and pitched the yeast anyway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitched 2 packets of dry yeast - one came with a kit and I didn't know how viable it would be.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In that 3 hours before pitching, the yeast was hydrating in pre-boiled water in a sanitized cup covered with a sanitized plate.  But it still foamed over the edge and almost pushed the plate off! (still too exposed, maybe the foam-over picked up something from underneath the cup?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 WELL-hydrated yeast packs + 90F wort = MASSIVE yeast activity in just a few hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the morning, the wort had foamed up completely and fouled the airlock, which I replaced. (yes I sanitized the airlock &amp;amp; rubber stopper, but was a little lax about it, not expecting this to be as big a deal).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just overnight, the gravity was halfway to FG! &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best guess is that it went wrong in the 3 hours before pitching the yeast, when the wort was still very warm - and any bugs were then out-competed by the massive amount of yeast activity?  All this yielding a not-horribly contaminated brew where most of the nastiness was buried in the yeast cake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between contamination and bad temp management, I don't expect this to be a good one to share, but ... had to happen sometime!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T03:03:35.587" Title="Contaminated batch - what went wrong?" Tags="|beer|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24656" CreationDate="2019-11-27T03:03:35.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What makes you think you've got contamination?  A slight skin over part of the surface isn't necessarily an uncommon thing.  I guess it depends how it looked.  You wouldn't happen to have any photographs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway it sounds like you pitched enough healthy yeast and it took off pretty quickly, so it is difficult to know for sure, IF you've got any contamination, where it might have come from exactly.  As you know there are dozens of possibilities.  However these are the most likely ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Transfer tubing.  How long have you had yours?  In my &lt;em&gt;opinion&lt;/em&gt;, it's a good idea to replace all tubing about once per year, or after a couple dozen batches, whichever comes first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Refrigerated water.  How was this treated?  Was it preboiled, or purchased from a store?  If purchased it is probably fine.  If you jugged and refrigerated it on your own, it could be contaminated if you didn't sanitize the container(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Pitching warm about 90 F.  There is a tiny bit of risk here.  Also be sure to sanitize the outside of the yeast packet before using, and even the scissors used to open the pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are some things if you hadn't thought about before, might be worth some improvements on future batches, whether you have real contamination in this batch or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards and happy brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T03:03:35.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24062" CreationDate="2019-11-29T05:38:11.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that the colour of Hybiscus is pH sensitive. At low pH it is red and at higher pH it will turn purple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17802" LastActivityDate="2019-11-29T05:38:11.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24663" CreationDate="2019-11-30T22:43:04.937" Score="1" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wild fermented cider from freshly pressed apples has been on the carboy for almost one and a half months now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cider is cloudy and there's still some very, VERY occasional airlock activity (once or twice a day?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume by now most fermentation has stopped. I've been trying the brew, and it's great. I like the taste it has now and don't think letting it ferment for longer will make a big difference. I would like my cider to be as clear as possible before bottling, but would also like to prime for carbonation. Here are my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is there a good way to clear my cider before bottling, hopefully with a method that doesn't require a very long amount of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Should I cold crash my cider to ensure fermentation has stopped? If I'm then priming, would that work if the yeast has been cold crashed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first batch, so hope my questions are interesting to some of the readers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17713" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T21:48:29.367" Title="Cold crashing and priming for carbonation, does that work?" Tags="|carbonation|cider|priming|cold-crash|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-01T18:14:06.367" Score="1" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a formula for forced carbonation level (dissolved CO2) as a function of beer volume, temperature, CO2 psi, and time? I assume that this function would be logarithmic with respect to time, while psi, temperature, and volume might be scalers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another input to the function would be the area of the headspace-to-beer junction. Lets assume this is constant and held at the internal cross section of a Cornelius keg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at several forced carb charts and they all seem to leave beer volume and time at psi setting out of the equation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically what im looking for is a method for estimating the duration at which to leave the kegs at the increased pressure without going over the desired level of carbonation. But also, as someone somewhat new to kegging, I'd like to be able to discern level of carbonation given knowledge of the carbonation process. &#xA;Thanks in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16487" LastEditorUserId="16487" LastEditDate="2019-12-01T18:40:28.150" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T01:51:35.790" Title="Force carbonation function" Tags="|carbonation|co2|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24661" CreationDate="2019-12-01T21:48:29.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two steps needed here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure complete fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce the amount of yeast in suspension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned that the fermentation is not complete, you could raise the temperature of the cider to around 20C, and/or gently swirl the yeast back up into suspension.  This will promote more rapid yeast activity, without being so high as to cause off flavours.  Of course stirring the yeast will certainly not help the beverage clear, but the important thing at this stage is to ensure fermentation is complete before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once fermentaion is done, cold crashing really helps yeast drop out of suspension.  Even down to fridge temperatures (~3C) for a few days works well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By-The-way: cold will &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; stop fermentation, only &lt;em&gt;slow&lt;/em&gt; it (obviously frozen solid is a bit different).  The best way to determine if fermentation is complete, is to take a measurement of sugar content with a hydrometer (AKA saccharometer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T21:48:29.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24665" CreationDate="2019-12-03T16:22:54.597" Score="1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I make 1.25 gallons of mead with Lalvin 71B, and put half in one gallon carboy for secondary and half in another gallon carboy. To fill the carboy I will use fruit juice or fresh fruit, possibly mixed with some honey. I know that by giving the yeast more sugar, they will proceed to ferment more, but will it form a considerable krausen? Also, are there any problems in doing this that I may be overlooking? I want to do this to experiment with different flavors. I will be measuring the amounts of ingredients put in each of the different carboys to record.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T18:27:20.850" Title="Will this work?" Tags="|mead|fruit|krausen|experiments|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24664" CreationDate="2019-12-03T18:27:20.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to predict the krausen size, as it depends on many factors such as the temperature/speed of fermentation, number of yeast cells pitched.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the fruit, it can create a big krausen, read this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/12925/fruit-mead-very-vigorous-fermentation?rq=1&quot;&gt;Fruit mead - VERY vigorous fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to clean the fruit skin to avoid contamination. Mixing fruit with mead will work, you can ferment separately or together, but if you do it separately you will be able to define a different ratio that you can test/taste before blending.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ferment in a carboy, with its shape it accentuates the krausen, it is better to use a bucket as primary fermentor.  Transfer to a carboy after the initial krausen if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T18:27:20.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10347" CreationDate="2019-12-03T18:42:03.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Scott for the bottle bomb part of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding where to find those small bottles, I use sparkling water glass bottles that are about 120ml each for this purpose.  I reuse the original twist cap, but I found out that my PET bottle caps also fit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T18:42:03.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-05T00:02:13.283" Score="2" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I experimented with turning a regular bock into an Eisbock. My bock had an OG of 1.088 and a FG of 1.014 (for an abv of ~9.5%). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I froze that bock to varying degrees, and pulled the unfrozen liquid out, letting the ice thaw and refreeze. My &quot;best&quot; result had a gravity of 1.032, the &quot;worst&quot; result had only 1.006 (end of the experiment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I calculate the alcohol by volume in those freeze-distilled beers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T13:44:28.193" Title="How to calculate alcohol content after freezing beer (Eisbock)?" Tags="|alcohol-content|distillation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24667" CreationDate="2019-12-05T14:56:52.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't determine the alcohol content simply by measuring gravity. We need more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's try to determine the alcohol by volume in your &quot;best&quot; result beer. For starters, it has gravity of 1.032 which translates into 83 grams of sugar per one liter of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools we need to calculate the alcohol content:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;pycnometer&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;sensitive scale&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steps:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Fill the pycnometer to appropriate level and determine the weight of the beer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Subtract the appropriate amount of sugar from that result&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Use ethanol-water density chart to find the weight of ethanol &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Use formula to convert alcohol by weight into alcohol by volume&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Detailed explanations:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You can find a lot of information on the internet about pycnometers and how to use them. Basically, they are used to determine the density of the solution. Let's say you have 20mL pycnometer. You have to fill it up to a level marked on the pycnometer and find the mass of the beer. Suppose you got the result of 20.02 grams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Since we are dealing with very small amounts of sugar, we can assume that the volume of beer would stay the same if we removed it(*). In 20mL of liquid there would be 0.02 * 83 = 1.66 grams of sugar. We are going to subtract that from result obtained in first step. To find the amount of sugar in 1L of solution I used this calculator:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vinolab.hr/calculator/gravity-density-sugar-conversions-en19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.vinolab.hr/calculator/gravity-density-sugar-conversions-en19&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Subtract 1.66 from 20.02 grams. This gives you 18.36 grams. So, the density of water and ethanol mixture (since we removed sugars) is 18.36 / 20 = 0.18 g/mL (notice that we are using milliliters and grams which is OK). Suppose that you did your measurements in the ambient temperature of 20C, using ethanol-water-mixture density chart we can see that the alcohol by weight is 42% (**). Use this chart:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethanol-water-mixture-density-d_2162.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethanol-water-mixture-density-d_2162.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Using ABW to ABV calculator we can see that alcohol by volume is 52.5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) You can dig deeper to see how to adjust for the error when subtracting the mass of sugar from the mass of solution but as I said since the percentage of sugar is very small it is not going to make a big difference in calculation (because volume stays almost the same).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(**) Don't be alarmed by this number. It is possible that the very first results you got were this high in alcohol. Since I assumed there was 1 liter of your first results this is what you get. In reality it is more likely that there was like 100mL of this strong stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2019-12-09T13:44:28.193" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T13:44:28.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24671" CreationDate="2019-12-06T15:16:07.263" Score="3" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am bottling my first wine soon. However, I am not sure if I should invest in a winged corker, or a floor corker. What are the pros and cons of each, and which should I invest in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T22:00:46.130" Title="Bottling Advice" Tags="|bottling|equipment|wine|mead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24670" CreationDate="2019-12-06T22:00:46.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Floor corker :&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bit more expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much more stable to use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bigger, more space required to store&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Winged corker :&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less stable to use (requires much more care)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to store&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a floor corker that I bought for about 50$ and I bottled over 100 bottles with it.  The stability is the key, it works so well, no worries to tip a bottle, etc.  I would recommend the floor corker without hesitation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T22:00:46.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24673" CreationDate="2019-12-08T20:53:57.113" Score="4" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made beer from malt extract a couple of times with satisfying results. I had been reading a lot about it upfront and practiced what I had learned. This meant ignoring the instructions that came with my malt extract kits though. I was convinced I needed to cook that stuff to get rid of substances that do not taste well. So I did each time. I also made sure to cool quickly using a self-made cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what puzzles me is the instructions that come with the kit. These tell you to dissolve the extract in a bucket of warm water and just put the bucket away until it is time to bottle. No cooking, no avoiding temperatures over 30 degrees Celsius for an extended period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just a trade-off to make it as easy as possible, likely resulting in a sub-par beer or do these malt extract suppliers pre-process the stuff in such a way that there is indeed no added value in cooking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using the sirup kind of extract. There is also the solid grained type. I would like to know how each is produced and how, if this were the case, this removes the need to cook the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another question asking about whether wort should be boiled or not &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/20400/should-the-wort-be-boiled&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; but this is different because I want to know more than a simple yes or no, I want to understand what the extract producers do to make boiling less of a necessity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17812" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T13:27:00.380" Title="Beer kits: why/when would there be no need to cook the wort?" Tags="|boil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24672" CreationDate="2019-12-09T13:27:00.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the process of making extract, the wort was already boiled for the most part (or very close to it).  Hence any chemistry that may be necessary in wort boiling to make beer is already done.  Extracts generally come out of the manufacturing process sanitized if not close to sterile.  So if your process is clean it really doesn't need to be boiled.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason to boil is mainly for hop isomerization (making bitterness) and sanitation.  I also think from a legacy standpoint learning to boil extract for 60minutes is getting you already in the mindset of boiling wort made straight from all-grain.  Boiling for 60minutes is also mimicking what happens at the pro level.  (Which I think as the hobby has matured the mindset of doing exactly what the pros need to do has changed quite a bit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T13:27:00.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24471" CreationDate="2019-12-09T21:21:12.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got it loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trick wasn't a highly specialized tool (needle nose pliers did it), but having the protrusion on the clamp behind the metal disk precisely hit a notch. Then, the hose could be pulled up through the tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dro7N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dro7N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Detached hose&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was still stiff, and there was no telltale &quot;click&quot; that indicated it was correctly aligned. Just needed patience and trial and error. Lots of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the protrusions on the two clamps were &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; aligned with respect to the half-circle indents. One (pictured) was more or less perpendicular to the indents, the other was more to the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13932" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T21:21:12.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-09T22:01:08.530" Score="2" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some mead and cider going, and left for a month. When I returned there was a layer of white mold that ive heard referred to as air mold. I think it is because fruit flies got in the airlock and died.&#xA;I tried adding camden tablets (5 per 5 gallons), but it seems to still be coming back. IS there anything I can add to decontaminate the ciders and wine? Unfortunately im talking about my whole fall harvest of apples so we are looking at 45 gallons that I am grasping to save&#xA;Any advice really appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17813" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T04:11:58.943" Title="Fruit flies in airlock led to contamination" Tags="|cider|mead|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24662" CreationDate="2019-12-10T01:51:35.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Carbonation_Tables&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Carbonation_Tables&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Braukaiser has a great page on carbonation, including tables formulated with different units, and the formula itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16544" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T01:51:35.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24678" CreationDate="2019-12-10T03:28:19.457" Score="0" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing two batches of grain mash, since im using a small pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, half is cooling outside right now, the other half is on the stove,  I plan to combine the two afterwards then get it to 70°F to add the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How cold can the half outside get? It's -30°F (-34°C) outside (no yeast is added yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17696" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T14:22:24.070" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T14:43:39.320" Title="Can the Mash get cold before I add yeast?" Tags="|mash|temperature|pitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24677" CreationDate="2019-12-10T14:43:39.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose you want to know how cold does it need to be, so that once it is combined with the other half, you get 70°F ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on how hot is the wort on the stove, once you know that temperature, you can calculate it based on the volume.  In any case, you can't let it freeze or it will be hard to transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one half is close to the freezing point and the other is close to the boiling point, once mixed you will be in between (about 122°F).  You might need to bring it back outside to get to 70°F.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T14:43:39.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24675" CreationDate="2019-12-10T15:51:18.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skim the mold off of the top, and transfer most of the liquid from below it. Only transfer the liquid that you know hasn't touched the mold. This may or may not work. Although, if your airlock is working correctly, I don't think mold should be able to get in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T15:51:18.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24681" CreationDate="2019-12-10T15:56:09.733" Score="1" ViewCount="1352" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long should I cold crash a mead for?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is it possible to get haze in the mead from being cold crashed too long?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast is 71B, and it is one gallon. I had to take the airlock off to put it in the refrigerator, but I covered it in plastic wrap. I do not believe that it will oxidize while in the fridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it be clear in about a week?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T18:48:51.590" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T13:16:36.157" Title="Cold Crashing Mead. Need help with details" Tags="|wine|mead|process|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24680" CreationDate="2019-12-11T13:16:36.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time mead makers don't cold crash.  Just let it sit and it will clear over time. If you want to speed it along look into wine fining agents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T13:16:36.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24683" CreationDate="2019-12-12T14:07:10.217" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;What, if any, is the difference between brewing sugar and priming sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17819" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2019-12-15T15:17:38.060" LastActivityDate="2019-12-15T15:17:38.060" Title="Sugar lager/cider brewing" Tags="|sugar|priming-sugar|beginner|adjuncts|adjunct|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24682" CreationDate="2019-12-12T14:39:17.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, no difference at all in the kinds of sugar. The difference could be made that &quot;brewing sugar&quot; is added at the stage of the boil, and &quot;priming sugar&quot; is added at bottling time, for carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, all sugars used are either &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;glucose (or dextrose, different name, same product), which is sometimes sold under the name of &quot;brewing sugar&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sucrose, table sugar, which is chemically somewhat more complex than glucose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;invert sugar, which is sucrose that has been chemically split into glucose and fructose, this is a syrup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variants of sucrose are castor sugar, cane sugar, demerara sugar, etc, mostly anything crystallised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variants of invert sugar are honey, and different syrups that are sold in the homebrew store, also maple and agave syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variants of sucrose and invert sugars can contain differing amounts of other by-products of sugar production, like caramel, molasses or unfiltered residue from the production process. These define the taste and the colour of the resulting end products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-12-12T14:39:17.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24698" CreationDate="2019-12-15T08:44:49.610" Score="1" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made an American Brown ale that turned out very dark brown. &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I opened the last couple of bottles a month or so apart after most of the batch.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The color seems to have faded to a significantly lighter shade of brown, &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;still in the brown ale normal range but different enough from the fresh beer to confuse me.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;What can possibly cause this phenomenon?&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;RECIPE:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Based on:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/784491/brown-ale-chance-dodds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/784491/brown-ale-chance-dodds&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Title: Brown Ale&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brew Method: BIAB &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Style Name: American Brown Ale &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Boil Time: 60 min &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Batch Size: 11 liters (fermentor volume)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Boil Size: 17 liters&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Boil Gravity: 1.031&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Efficiency: 60% (brew house)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;No Chill: 20 minute extended hop boil time&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STATS:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Original Gravity: 1.049&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Final Gravity: 1.010&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;ABV (standard): 5.12%&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;IBU (tinseth): 32.19&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;SRM (morey): 19.59&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Mash pH: 0&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;FERMENTABLES:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;2.5 kg - Pilsner (87.7%)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;200 g - CaraMunich II (7%)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;100 g - De-Husked Caraf II (3.5%)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;50 g - Melanoidin (1.8%)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOPS:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;5 g - Magnum, Type: Pellet, AA: 15, Use: Boil for 40 min, IBU: 20.44&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;5 g - Ekuanot, Type: Pellet, AA: 14.25, Use: Boil for 0 min, IBU: 11.76&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;25 g - Ekuanot, Type: Pellet, AA: 14.25, Use: Dry Hop for 5 days&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;MASH GUIDELINES:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1) Infusion, Temp: 68 C, Time: 45 min, Amount: 17 L&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;OTHER INGREDIENTS:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1 tsp - Irish moss, Time: 10 min, Type: Water Agt, Use: Boil&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YEAST:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Fermentis / Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Starter: No&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Form: Dry&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Fermentation Temp: 18 C&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Pitch Rate: 0.75 (M cells / ml / deg P)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;PRIMING:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;CO2 Level: 2.52 Volumes&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Generated by Brewer's Friend - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Date: 2019-12-18 10:39 UTC &#xA;Recipe Last Updated: 2019-09-30 16:12 UTC &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastEditorUserId="15010" LastEditDate="2019-12-18T10:50:18.677" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T12:02:58.383" Title="What can cause color loss in a finished beer?" Tags="|aging|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3017" CreationDate="2019-12-15T23:22:30.517" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast needs sugar as food to convert to alcohol and also while in frementer contributes a little to carbonation. Leaving bottling too late will affect the secondary fermentation and carbonation process once bottled as the yeast has been starved due to eating all of the sugars. So if there is about 20billion yeast cells in a pack of yeast, then you may find that most have died and there are less there to do the work. Thats my understanding anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17827" LastActivityDate="2019-12-15T23:22:30.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12924" CreationDate="2019-12-16T15:18:57.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this point, I have made many one gallon batches of beer, cider and mead using S.Boulardii as my yeast. Cider is by far the easiest. Simply empty a capsule of Florastor or Boulardii Max into a jug of preservative free pure apple juice then stick on your air-lock. If you really want to be cheap and not get a bubbler, you can just put some aluminum foil over the top and crush it onto the threads so it stays covered but not sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best tasting results from my experience have been in brewing a West Coast style brut IPA. It's all I brew now. Mostly pale malt with a bit of wheat, dry hopped with a variety of aromatic hops imparting flavours of citrus and other fruit. It is normal for beers of this type to be finished and served unfiltered, which goes well with the goal of consuming this as a probiotic beverage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe hefeweizen style would also be a good choice for this yeast. Though, I have not tried this yet. Some have said my IPA reminds them of to Shock Top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17829" LastActivityDate="2019-12-16T15:18:57.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-16T17:54:41.480" Score="3" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2.5-2.75 gallon batch of Amber beer. I brewed it using the biab method. It's been in primary for about 2 weeks. 5 days ago the hydrometer reading was 1.030 and 3 days later it was 1.030. The OG 1.060 was and read after the wort was cooled in the kettle all night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash temperature was 152 and cooled to about room temperature before adding yeast. Fermentation is done at room temperature which varies 65 and 80 around 70 average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fermentables&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5.5 Lb American pale 2 row&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2 lb Crystal 40&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;yeast:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Safale 05&#xA;⅔ packet of yeast (.32 oz) dry &#xA;Added about ¾ teaspoon of yeast Energizer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first question: should I add more yeast to restart the fermentation or is it done?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;second question: Can I add the remaining 1/3 packet of us-05 yeast that's been sitting on my counter for 2 weeks? is it dead or unsanitary?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17831" LastEditorUserId="17831" LastEditDate="2019-12-16T22:42:32.053" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T06:07:10.983" Title="Stuck fermentation, more yeast?" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-16T23:55:15.480" Score="2" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;6 Months ago I attempted a KBS Clone.&#xA;Beer uses chocolate, coffee, bourbon soaked oak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got 1.090 OG and got stuck at 1.032, but it tastes really good (Can chocolate make it appear higher?)&#xA;It's been 6 months and I would like to bottle it. What technique should I use if I want to bottle condition? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm scared that if I repitch an high attenuative yeast, I might restart fermentation and make bottles bombs.. Is that a possibility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16606" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-12-17T17:21:38.427" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T17:33:08.150" Title="Bottle a beer that was stuck at fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|stuck-fermentation|imperial|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24689" CreationDate="2019-12-17T04:01:03.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1I believe the fermentation is done.&#xA;2 don't add that yeast, it's dead.&#xA;Not one of your questions but letting your wort cool overnight is not a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T04:01:03.313" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24690" CreationDate="2019-12-17T17:33:08.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you know the estimated FG of the recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Your fermentation is done (not stuck), but you can confirm this by trying to restart it.  High FG is usually caused by uncontrolled mash temperature (too high or too low) which results in too much non fermentable sugars (unconverted).  No problem to bottle at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- Your fermentation is stuck for some reason (mostly inadequate temperature, old yeast, etc.).  Bring it back to correct temperature, add some more yeast and mix lightly.  If fermentation does not restart, it is possible that you reached the FG.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think that there are no reasons for a stuck fermentation, go ahead and bottle condition your beer.  Otherwise I would make sure fermentation is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T17:33:08.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24695" CreationDate="2019-12-17T17:57:02.267" Score="2" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently switched to Starsan from B-brite, and have had, shall we say, very tenacious krausens.  I know that the Starsan foam isn't harmful to the beer, but it's foaming up in the carboy to the point where it pushes material up into the airlock.  I've had to switch out airlocks a few times now to prevent a kaboom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look like I'm getting more active fermentation, just that the bubbles in the krausen don't pop. It builds and builds with large bubbles until it gooshes out the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using blowoff tubes instead of airlocks because of this, but I wanted to know if this is a known result from Starsan. Or am I mixing it too strong (I'm using the little measuring compartment feature on the bottle), or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17833" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T06:34:17.467" Title="Starsan- overly ambitious krausen in airlock" Tags="|airlock|krausen|foam|starsan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24694" CreationDate="2019-12-18T01:59:56.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you rinse the carboy, after using the star Stan you get a good rinse? Another possibility is the amount the fermentables that you were using. Another possibility could be your filling your carboy too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T01:59:56.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24694" CreationDate="2019-12-18T02:14:53.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's prolly normal and I doupt this foam comes from starsan. I get bigger reaction when my fermentation temperature is high and/or OG is high and/or yeast produce big krausen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16606" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T02:14:53.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24694" CreationDate="2019-12-18T06:34:17.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that the Star San cleans better, and that chemicals that inhibit foam (like fatty acids etc), get removed better. I personally use Star San sometimes to clean the kitchen range because of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T06:34:17.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24685" CreationDate="2019-12-18T12:02:58.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing for 10+ years so the answer I give will be based upon experience. I have often seen beer to lighten in colour to some extent and have generally attributed this to the settling of sediments and proteins from the beer during the conditioning phase. With less sediment in suspension, light can more easily pass through the liquid, making it appear lighter in colour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17834" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T12:02:58.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24689" CreationDate="2019-12-19T17:08:59.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;2lbs of crystal is likely the reason for the high FG.  Pull 500ml and add the rest of the yeast to that.  Keep it warm (75F or more), loosely covered and shake it/swirl it for a few days.  See if the gravity changes.  If it does you might be able to ferment the main batch a bit more.  If not then you know you are at terminal gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T17:08:59.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24689" CreationDate="2019-12-20T06:07:10.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I read about it it seems your mash temperature has been too low on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will end up with primarily maltose which isn't your yeast's favorite food, ergo, your ferment will be partial and your end product will likely taste sweet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17812" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T06:07:10.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25275" CreationDate="2019-12-20T15:25:53.540" Score="3" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;tl;dr&#xA;Do you know where to buy, food contact PAA in packaging ≤5kg and concentration ≤5% ?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to buy Peroxyacetic Acid that already have long history of use has been approved by EU, but it is next to unavailable in UK's professional online shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not many shop sells PAA that supposed to be used for food contact surfaces. But finding one smaller than 25kg is impossible! I would need only 500g or ml, considering the dilution., but I could live with anything up to 5kg&#xA;Then again only availability of small containers is with sellers not providing info that them products can be used with food contact surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need specifically this product, for it's proven no rinse application and being food contact authorized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17839" LastEditorUserId="17839" LastEditDate="2020-01-06T09:35:38.780" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T23:04:04.390" Title="Peroxyacetic Acid availability" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24707" CreationDate="2019-12-20T23:54:23.160" Score="4" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it good practice to let your Wort cool overnight, then pitch your yeast in the morning. I have heard, there are 2 schools of thought that might affect the taste of the beer.  Also, could contaminate the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastEditorUserId="15201" LastEditDate="2019-12-21T02:05:34.903" LastActivityDate="2019-12-21T07:16:37.400" Title="When using an electric brew kettle" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24709" CreationDate="2019-12-21T02:22:50.067" Score="3" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never done an all-grain recipe, was thinking about trying one. My question is does the Mash replace the DME? Also, I would think that the rest of the process of the brewing, would be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-12-23T13:29:37.827" LastActivityDate="2019-12-23T13:29:37.827" Title="All Grain Brewing" Tags="|fermentation|all-grain|mash|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24705" CreationDate="2019-12-21T07:16:37.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your sanitation practices are solid and you do not leave the wort uncovered overnight, you should not have a contamination issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the effect of delayed pitch, there is a homebrew scale experiment: &lt;a href=&quot;http://brulosophy.com/2019/01/07/the-impact-of-delaying-yeast-pitch-exbeeriment-results&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brulosophy.com/2019/01/07/the-impact-of-delaying-yeast-pitch-exbeeriment-results&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;While obviously the sample size is small, the data seems to indicate that if not for contamination, you should not have a real difference in taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17840" LastActivityDate="2019-12-21T07:16:37.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24706" CreationDate="2019-12-21T15:53:43.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your thinking is on the right track.  Mashing with crushed grains at an appropriate temperature (about 150 F or 65 C) for at least 45-60 minutes then draining off basically creates your own &quot;extract&quot; so you don't need to add any DME or other sugars.  From there you will continue to boil and add hops and brew in the normal way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a great introduction on how to brew, you might want to visit howtobrew.com(!).  This is a good free website that should answer most of your questions about brewing including all-grain methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2019-12-21T15:53:43.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24706" CreationDate="2019-12-22T20:02:17.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, all-grain brewing replaces the DME (and LME) used in the brew-day part of extract brewing. However, I thought it might be helpful to call out a some exceptions and related concepts that might be helpful as you're getting started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, DME isn't necessarily 100% absent from all-grain brewing. DME is often used when making yeast starters and occasionally when bottling, even for all-grain beers. This can be avoided by collecting some of your wort to save for these purposes but my impression is that that's not super common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, it's worth calling out partial mash brewing as a kind if hybrid process where you perform a (smaller) mash and then add extract to bump your gravity up the rest of the way. There are some nice advantages to this approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your mash efficiency comes out a little lower than you were expecting, it's not as bad if, say, 40% of your fermentables came from extract.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a small mash tun, this can help you produce a full batch of higher gravity beer without needing to upgrade your system. (Slightly unrelated, I have future plans to make a barleywine-adjacent braggot this way, using honey instead of extract.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that is to say: all-grain means your &quot;recipe&quot; malt bill is all grains, but not necessarily that extract is not used at all. But partial mash can be a nice in-between option that mixes the benefits of all-grain and extract brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2019-12-22T20:02:17.957" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-23T04:20:45.680" Score="4" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you lager outdoors, in the Winter as long as you keep the beer out of the light?&#xA;I don't have the means or the containers needed to Lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastActivityDate="2019-12-23T06:33:01.050" Title="When Lagering outdoors" Tags="|lager|lagering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24710" CreationDate="2019-12-23T06:33:01.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a shed behind my house which I call &quot;the lagering shed&quot;.  You should know the range of temperatures which are likely to occur, and keep an eye on your beer.  I live in south-western British Colombia, where winter temperatures are great for outdoor lagering.  We sometimes go a bit below zero, but usually not much below, and usually not for long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I allowed my beer to partly freeze.  Part of the contents of the carboy were in a slush or slurpee form.  As I recall, I brought it in at that point.  Of course you will want to avoid your beer freezing further than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2019-12-23T06:33:01.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-23T14:29:39.267" Score="5" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year I have made walnuts liqueur, or nocino in Italian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the single batch I have obtained 2 liters of liqueur, which I have bottled in dark beer bottles and left to age in the same, dark room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have noticed that while the liquor in one bottle has achieved the dark brown color typical of the liqueur, in another bottle the liquor is greenish and opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can have happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Puzzled_brewer" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-12-23T17:52:54.657" LastActivityDate="2022-01-17T08:06:55.690" Title="Different appearence of liqueur after aging" Tags="|aging|color|liquor|nuts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24712" CreationDate="2019-12-23T17:50:53.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely, contamination has turned your second bottle greenish.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2019-12-29T03:12:04.197" LastActivityDate="2019-12-29T03:12:04.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7024" CreationDate="2019-12-24T22:50:55.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just revived a liquid yeast that was in the fridge for 2.5 years, I cleaned it up, did a starter and its like new.. I took some microscope samples and didn't see any bacteria infection or mutations and even made a little fun video on it, for anyone interested...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQQQuAF74Ig&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;co2 gas bubble moving under the slide, live sample from active fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17846" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T22:50:55.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-29T21:27:08.360" Score="1" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to brew GIN at home with wild Sloe berries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to dry sloe berries without losing it's useful fungal coating for sloe GIN?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17853" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-01-03T13:56:56.203" LastActivityDate="2020-01-05T23:42:31.543" Title="Drying Sloe Berry at home" Tags="|brewing|fruit-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12518" CreationDate="2020-01-01T00:43:59.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got 2 unused oak barrels from a South African. He  had them for 25 years &amp;amp; never used them. He said before I use them, to clean them twice with boiling water to remove the wax sealant inside... Looks like parafin wax.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I filled them to the top, left them for 5 minutes and emptied them, twice each. A fair bit of wax floated on top of the water. One barrel was leaking so I put it in a sink overnight with water up to the top of the barrel inside and out. No leaks in the morning! Full of Muscat &amp;amp; Tokay now. With a decent glass of brandy in each to get the chemistry working...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17854" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-01-03T13:52:29.913" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T13:52:29.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24716" CreationDate="2020-01-05T23:42:31.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One doesn't brew gin from sloe berries, you flavour gin with the sloes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no need to dry the sloes. Just pop them in a bottle with the gin and some sugar and leave for a couple of months. There are plenty of recipes if you look for them, and not a little voodoo. Some people like to freeze the sloes first, others will prick them (with a thorn from the bush they were picked on) to let the juice out. You can experiment with the amount of sugar. Don't worry about the blush of yeast on the berries, this will get killed by the alcohol in the gin pretty rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no home brewing, fermentation or distillation involved, just the slow steeping of the fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17470" LastActivityDate="2020-01-05T23:42:31.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2020-01-07T22:55:53.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My ginger beer gets hotter if I strain the ginger mixture multiple times. So after straining after a simmer of 30 minutes, move the strained ginger mixture into a pan add hot water and boil (5 min). Do this several times (5 times) until strained water runs clearer. It doesn't take more time if you have to top up a 23L drum with hot water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17868" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T13:16:57.933" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T13:16:57.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24722" CreationDate="2020-01-08T04:54:58.947" Score="4" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was brewing a sour beer with Brett Bruxelensis, when my primary finished I harvested the yeast. The beer was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I subsequently added it to secondary with raspberries I ended up with vinegar due to aceto bacter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering should I discard the harvested yeast or would it be safe to use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the acettobacter was introduced by the fruits, but I am not sure (not a whole lot of experience with sours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T18:23:29.987" Title="Re-use my harvested yeast from primary after secondary finished on acetobacter" Tags="|yeast|sour|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24720" CreationDate="2020-01-08T12:54:52.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To eliminate any risk at all, you could discard the harvested yeast.  I agree with you, that most likely the acetobacter came from the raspberries.  However, it's possible also that it simply flew in from the air or otherwise was incorporated as part of the racking to secondary.  So there's no way to know for sure really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T12:54:52.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24720" CreationDate="2020-01-08T18:23:29.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brettanomyces will make acetic acid in the presence of ethanol and oxygen.  You'd need to determine if there is actually acetobacter present in the harvested slurry to know for sure if it was &quot;clean&quot;.  It is possible you picked up too much oxygen on transfer or had too much headspace in secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T18:23:29.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-10T01:41:13.477" Score="4" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making plum wine.  The recipe said mash the fruit, cover with water, add a campden tablet and pectinase and leave for 24 hours before adding other ingredients.  I through the yeast in at the same time before I realized I needed to wait 24 hours.  Will this negatively impact on the rest of the process? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17874" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T04:49:56.437" Title="Accidentally added yeast in first 24 hours" Tags="|yeast|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24723" CreationDate="2020-01-10T04:49:56.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Campden probably will not kill your yeast, but will only make the yeast upset, causing them to increase sulfur production and make them more sluggish, but things will stabilize again after a week or so.  I believe everything will still turn out alright.  If you are concerned, then add extra yeast.  However I don't believe this will be necessary.  Good luck and enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T04:49:56.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24727" CreationDate="2020-01-11T11:04:49.703" Score="2" ViewCount="639" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the recipes I am following requires half of my dry hops to be added when the krausen is high. I always assumed that adding dry hops then would mean that there is loss in aroma. I was wondering if someone could explain the rational for adding them at high krausen. What is it that I am trying to do here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T15:42:22.500" Title="Adding hops when krausen is still high" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-11T15:22:40.897" Score="4" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was the first time I primed my cider when bottling for carbonation. I exclusively wild ferment and press my own apples. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added what I think was enough sugar (ca. 120 g for 25 L), and bottles were stored at room temperature (ca. 16ºC) for 3 weeks. Yesterday, I put one bottle in the fridge and left it overnight. I popped it open today and to my surprise, no bubbles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you say is the reason for this? Is there not enough sugar, or should the cider be left for longer to carbonate? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the cider needs to be left in the cold for more than just night? I've heard that CO2 only gets transferred into the liquid at cold temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use flip-top bottles and there's a bit of pressure released when opened. The still, uncarbonated cider is great as it is, but I would like to experiment with priming. Please let me know what your experiences are, and what would you do in my position :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Share and learn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17713" LastEditorUserId="17713" LastEditDate="2020-01-12T09:58:22.617" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T09:58:22.617" Title="Still, un-bubbly cider after priming and left for 3 weeks at room temperature" Tags="|carbonation|cider|priming|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24725" CreationDate="2020-01-11T15:42:22.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rational for adding hops at anytime during the ferment is an attempt to get some biotransformation.  There is some evidence that active yeast will transform certain hop oils onto new aroma molecules that wouldn't have been there in the original hop make up.  This is very yeast strain dependent and hop variety dependent.  There is much research still being done on this phenomenon.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So splitting the dry hop charge between traditional dry hop post ferment and some during active ferment is an attempt to get the best of both worlds.  It's a frequent technique for IPA brewers these days.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address your concern about fermentation scrubbing out aroma; I wouldn't be too concerned about it.  Yes you can smell hops during the fermentation which would indicated you are losing some aroma.  But it shouldn't be treated like all the aroma is escaping, its a small percentage in my experience.  Furthermore, to overcome that loss you'd just add more hops really to balance it out.  But it's not something that is easily quantified, its an personal taste/perception correction.  I've never found it to be a problem in modern day IPA brewing.  We are bombing the beer with hops to a point where some scrubbing is not noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T15:42:22.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24726" CreationDate="2020-01-11T15:47:30.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sound like its just not done yet.  Wild yeast will work slower than some purer strains will work. If there is pressure under the cap when you open it then there is some activity going.  Of course, if there wasn't enough sugar then maybe you've just got enough CO2 in the headspace.  I think more time will be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The notion that the liquid only absorbs when its cold is not accurate.  Cold liquid absorb CO2 more readily and hold on to it more readily, but as the pressure builds CO2 will absorb even at room temperature.  So if your cider is flat despite there being a touch of hiss when you release the cap, I think it just needs more to to develop adequate pressure to start absorbing into the cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T15:47:30.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24726" CreationDate="2020-01-12T02:16:52.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It just needs more time.  Give it about 6 weeks, that should help.  Carbonation can take longer than you might have heard, and longer than you might think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep it warm, don't chill it until you are ready to drink.  I agree with brewchez on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T02:16:52.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-12T15:55:20.263" Score="4" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan on ussing a bag/balloon filled with CO2 attached to the fermenter when cold crashing. I want to calculate how big this bag needs to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermenter Volume: 30l (23l beer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Room Temp: 20° Celsius&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beer Temp before Cold Crash: 20° Celsius&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beer Temp after Cold Crash: 3° Celsius&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I calculate the volume CO2 that is sucked into the fermenter? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My approach was to look at the Density of CO2 at the different temperatures:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1.815 g/l at 20° C&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1.923 g/l at 3° C&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So at 20°C there are 54,5g CO2 inside the fermenter at 3°C there should be  57,7g CO2 in the fermenter, the difference would be 1.8l CO2 at 20°C. &#xA;   I feel that I'm missing something, probably something about the CO2 in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16267" LastActivityDate="2022-02-01T15:05:15.430" Title="Cold crash amount of CO2 sucked into fermenter" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|co2|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24730" CreationDate="2020-01-13T13:00:46.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per the suggestion of @Frazbro&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 0 psi there are 0.85 volumes (1.68g/l) of CO2 in the beer at room temp and 1.47 volumes (2.91g/l) at cold crash temperature.&#xA;So the difference is 1.23g/l. For 23l 28.29g CO2 are required, which will translate to 15.56 liters CO2 at room temperature. &#xA;This number seems more reasonable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16267" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T13:00:46.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-15T03:09:39.553" Score="3" ViewCount="1646" Body="&lt;p&gt;just wanted to ask if anyone using 3% hydrogen peroxide to remove chlorine from your strike/sparge water? If yes how many ml/l or gallon? &#xA;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15270" LastActivityDate="2021-09-07T03:20:04.403" Title="Hydrogen peroxide to remove chlorine from brewing water" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24732" CreationDate="2020-01-15T05:33:32.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Congratulations, you made me pull out my ancient chemistry knowledge and periodic table data.  (I'm a chemical engineer by degree, but that was more than 20 years ago.  Hope I still know what the heck I'm doing!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on molecular weights and the fact that sodium hypochlorite reacts with hydrogen peroxide thusly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NaOCl + H2O2 --&amp;gt; NaCl + H2O + O2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the aqueous concentrations of chlorinated water and hydrogen peroxide were the same (say, at 3%), then it appears that you would need 34/74.5 = 45.6% as much hydrogen peroxide as the chlorinated water.  But then I doubt water from your tap would contain 3% sodium hypochlorite.  Looking that up... it appears that a common municipal water system actually ensures the amount of sodium hypochlorite flowing from your tap is not at 3% but rather up to about 3 parts per MILLION. So that is 1/10,000 as much as I originally calculated.  So that's 45.6/10,000 = 0.00456% as much hydrogen peroxide you will need to neutralize the hypochlorite compared to the volume of chlorinated water.  Or volumetrically that's 0.0456 ml per liter of water, or would be about 0.006 ounces per gallon, or ~4 drops per gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the reaction is very fast, virtually instantaneous.  It should definitely work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting idea.  Thanks for the question!  I might give this a try sometime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2021-09-07T03:20:04.403" LastActivityDate="2021-09-07T03:20:04.403" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24737" CreationDate="2020-01-15T12:16:14.097" Score="3" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;So Im brewing a Mango Lassi Milkshake IPA. One of the things I forgot to do while boiling was to add my Irish moss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking up alternatives on what I could do, where I found out things such as finning agents such as gelatine. I realised after review that Im basically creating an NEIPA if I do not do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This made me research a bit more and as far as I can tell this whole operation is not so much about flavour rather aesthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to understand more how finning agents such as Irish Moss or Gelatine affect the experience. I know about the clarity but would affect other aspects such as flavour or mouth feel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T13:17:18.660" Title="How does “clearing” beer affect flavour and mouthfeel" Tags="|experiments|irish-moss|gelatin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24735" CreationDate="2020-01-15T13:17:18.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing a hazy beer like that I normally skip the Irish moss anyway so I think you're going to be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fining and the effect of flavor is beer style dependent... for the most part.&#xA;In nearly all styles that are generally clear to brilliantly clear there isn't a lot of loss of flavor components from clearing/fining.&#xA;In styles where some of the flavor is being contributed by stuff in suspension like yeast in a Hefe and white ale or in the case of suspended hop polyphenols for hazy IPA; in these cases you can expect SOME loss of flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same goes for mouth feel.  Where some of these suspended things effect mouthfeel you'd expect a small drop when fining.  But its minor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've said it before though that fining and flavor loss is not a light switch effect.  The loss may be noticable if you had side by side beers to compare as in an experiment.  But like in most brewing if you need to fine for clarity and you wish the beer had more of a certain flavor you'd more often have more luck figuring how to get more flavor (i.e. adding more of that ingredient) than eliminating the fining step.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fining to me just doesn't drive that big of an impact on flavor changes.  The recipe is a bigger control knob for that than is the process of fining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(OK I'm off my soap box now.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T13:17:18.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24622" CreationDate="2020-01-15T16:28:55.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could heat treat / pasteurise the kombucha in the bottle, (once it's done carbonating). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this would kill off the beneficial bacteria, but it's those bacteria that make the floaty bits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12945" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T16:28:55.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-18T19:48:07.543" Score="3" ViewCount="688" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewing with Grainfather system. Gravity measured post boil at 1.068. Gravity measured post cooling and transfer to fermenter @ 1.058. How/What could cause this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17889" LastActivityDate="2022-11-13T12:00:35.587" Title="Gravity goes down during cooling" Tags="|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2020-01-19T17:38:14.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe try drying your fresh ginger for a week before use the dryer it gets the more heat you get from your ginger root. This trick turned my brew into a really nice spicy ginger hit! Maybe even too spicy, now I do half dried old fresh ginger root with half fresh plump ones. Hope this helps for your ginger bite! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17892" LastActivityDate="2020-01-19T17:38:14.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-20T15:28:49.540" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several aluminum Coors Light Pint cans with screw-top caps. I haven't tried to bottle with them yet. Has anyone else successfully bottled in these cans?&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17895" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T15:28:49.540" Title="Bottling in Aluminum Coors Light Pint Cans?" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24740" CreationDate="2020-01-20T18:11:45.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measurement at different temperature can cause this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use this site to adjust the measurement depending on the temperature: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sedimentation can also change the value a little, but that would take some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T18:11:45.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24740" CreationDate="2020-01-20T18:12:40.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;How did you measure the gravity?  Hydrometer or refractometer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What temperature did you measure at post-boil?  What temperature did you measure at post-chill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The change in gravity is expected.  Your gravity measurements need to be calibrated for temperature.  You can use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&lt;/a&gt; to do this or have a paper copy of a calibration table on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you are measuring gravity post-boil with a glass hydrometer, be careful!  I can shatter due to high temperatures or temperature shock!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T18:12:40.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24740" CreationDate="2020-01-21T15:53:41.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other alternative, check your cooler for leaks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've accidentally diluted the wort, it'll have a lower gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12945" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T15:53:41.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24747" CreationDate="2020-01-21T20:24:44.340" Score="2" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my primary fermentation since 25 days ago SG was 1.100 ( bubbling was stopped since 2nd week), today I’m going to move the cider to secondary the Gravity is about 0.980 but the cider is still cloudy.&#xA;My question is: &#xA;- Do I have to wait more 1 or 2 weeks? &#xA;- And how long to keep it before bottling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo attached &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/orQuk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17033" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T22:23:41.790" Title="Apple cider cloudy" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|cider|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24746" CreationDate="2020-01-21T22:23:41.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be finished fermenting, but it would indeed be wise to leave it alone for another couple of weeks just to be certain, and the extra time should help it to clear as well.  If after that point it is still cloudy, you can try adding unflavored gelatin to get some of the haze to settle out.  This takes a few days but I have found it to be very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T22:23:41.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7004" CreationDate="2020-01-23T00:01:51.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you thoroughly rinse and dry your bottles after use and store them in a dust free place, all you need to do before reusing is sanitize them.  The sanitation methods above are good, and you can also soak them for 20 minutes in a bleach solution consisting of two ounces of bleach in five gallons of water. Just be sure to rinse them thoroughly after the soak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17897" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T00:01:51.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-26T23:31:35.210" Score="5" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;Newbie here. I know &lt;em&gt;nothing&lt;/em&gt; about making beer. I love sours. Can you make sours at home? Is it too complicated compared to other beer making? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17901" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-01-27T14:51:47.803" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T14:51:47.803" Title="Sour beer at home?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|sour|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24749" CreationDate="2020-01-27T13:00:56.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like anything in brewing, it can be as simple or as complicated as you want to make it.  I'll provide only the simple answer because I prefer to keep things simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) First, you need to read How To Brew by John Palmer.  There is an old version available free online at howtobrew.com.  If you want the latest information then you need to buy the book, but I think you'll find everything you need online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) After you boil the batch, cool, and it is time to add your yeast, at this point you can also add bacteria and/or Brettanomyces yeast or other funky yeast strains which will add the sourness.  I have done this a few different ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can add literally just a dollop of sour cream which contains live Lactobacillus bacteria.  This will provide a clean lactic sourness the same way as sour cream and yogurt, and is suitable for Berliner-style weissbier and any other style where you want it to be quite sour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can add commercial yeast and bacteria such as Wyeast 3763 Roeselare Blend.  This contains Brett and will provide a consistent repeatable funk and sourness.  There are many other commercially available options as well, this is just one that springs to mind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can also add a handful of unmilled grains, which are naturally loaded with lots of different wild yeast and bacteria, for a truly funky and less predictable outcome.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some brewers will let the fermentation go to the finish and then enjoy (this is what I do!), while others will baby it and ferment warm for a couple of days, then boil it to kill the wild organisms and cut short the souring.  There are probably 100 different ways to make sour beer.  This is where it can get more complicated.  But in the end, of course, experiment and find your own path and what you enjoy.  You can certainly start very simple and then work your way up to the other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the hobby and happy brewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T13:00:56.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24753" CreationDate="2020-01-29T14:33:19.133" Score="4" ViewCount="709" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would one go about calculating starting gravity without a hydrometer? I know that there is a way to mathematically determine this, which is what I'm looking for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T14:19:28.050" Title="How to measure starting gravity without a hydrometer" Tags="|original-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24751" CreationDate="2020-01-29T16:41:06.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need some other tool to measure the gravity, like a Refractometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not use any measuring tool, you can get an estimate based on the ingredients, but it will never be precise (although it should not be too far).&#xA;Most brewing softwares (like beersmith) will calculate this for you after you enter ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T16:41:06.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24751" CreationDate="2020-01-29T20:25:18.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most accurate calculation I have found is the one from the following link, which requires measuring both Brix with a refractometer, and FG with a hydrometer.  Using those inputs, this calc will result in % ABV, which based on a dozen or so comparisons I have determined to be accurate within about 0.4% on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/brewometer-any-idea-feedback-on-this.18783/#post-313870&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/brewometer-any-idea-feedback-on-this.18783/#post-313870&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABV = [277.8851 - 277.4(FG) + 0.9956(Brix) + 0.00523(Brix^2) + 0.000013(Brix^3)] x (FG/0.79)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can either stop there if ABV is all you care about; and/or you can back-calculate what the OG must have been based on standard ABV calculators; and/or you can estimate the OG based on the ABV, based on knowing that as a general rule, the ABV is pretty close to the last two digits of the OG.  For example, a 6.1% ABV beer usually requires approximately a 1.061 OG wort; or for 4.7% your OG is probably pretty close to 1.047, etc.  So when you know your ABV, you basically have an idea of the OG based on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, at best, you'll only be accurate within about 0.4-0.5% ABV or 0.004-0.005 gravity points, but it will give you a good ballpark figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AND...... if all that isn't enough, or you really really don't want to use a hydrometer at all but only a refractometer, well then just check out Part II of this page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-01-29T20:31:35.067" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T20:31:35.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24751" CreationDate="2020-01-30T14:19:28.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can calculate and estimate and be pretty close.  But you have to measure it to know what it really is.  Its dependent on volume and dissolved sugar.  Calculations are pretty close if you are working in extracts.  Calculations can be pretty far off if you're working in all-grain and you don't have your process dialed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T14:19:28.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24740" CreationDate="2020-01-31T03:24:41.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really the only thing that would account for a .010+ variance is that the first sample was concentrated with more sugars than the second. Temperature cannot account for such + to - swing with any gravity meter. A hydrometer would read less gravity at hotter temps since the hotter water is expanded and has more volume and less density, objects floating in them have less buoyancy causing a hydrometer to read lower than actual SG when at proper temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In simple terms the wort was not fully mixed during the first sample and was more evenly mixed at the second sample.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T03:24:41.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-31T05:31:44.173" Score="5" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ask this as a Russian born person of which would like to show off to friends and family. As a Russian born US citizen who occasionally gets playfully teased about our stereotypes, I would like to prove to them how stereotypical I can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17907" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2020-01-31T13:40:51.300" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T13:40:51.300" Title="How does one make vodka from potatoes" Tags="|mash|vodka|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24757" CreationDate="2020-01-31T13:40:42.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could start with &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/23755/converting-potato-starch-in-to-sugars-for-brewing&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; from this forum to know how to turn potatoes into a sugary solution fit for fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, mashing not only means to mush the potatoes, but to add crushed barley malt and water. The crushed barley malt enzymes will turn the potato starches into sugars. Click on the tag &quot;mash&quot; to get more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after the fermentation process, vodka needs distilling, and that is a very specific theme, more subject to different laws, I suppose differing from state to state in the US, and also differing from country to country. And talking about distilling on HB SE seems to still be not generally accepted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T13:40:42.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-01T08:06:25.433" Score="3" ViewCount="994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started my grainfather journey and have been looking at some of the recipes. My question is I can see some that have 0 min boil and some that have hop stand. Can anyone tell me if there is a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Michael&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17910" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T04:31:45.507" Title="Hop stand Vs 0 min boil" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24675" CreationDate="2020-02-02T04:11:58.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, if you have one-piece airlocks, throw them in the garbage.  Use the three piece ones with cup and snap on lid.  The latter kind is unlikely to siphon with a temperature drop, keeps out pests, and holds more fluid to delay complete evaporation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you added the Campden tablets, did you do this by racking onto the tablets in a freshly sanitized fermenter?  Mold will sink into solution if it dies, not magically disappear, and is potentially toxic, so it has to be skimmed off or the wine racked out from under.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A finished cider or mead usually won't support mold growth, so I would check gravity.  If fermentation isn't finished, then I'd rack onto Campden and yeast vs just Campden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17912" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T04:11:58.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15158" CreationDate="2020-02-02T22:57:10.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine always smells fresh, tho I start a new one every week or two, Ive noticed that letting it go to long can somtimes cause a &quot;sulfury&quot; smell in the final beverage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ps. A ginger beer &quot;scoby&quot; is made of Wild ginger... its not bakers yeast or kombucha (Which I'm pretty sure is made from the wild yeast on tea leaves), make your own culture, its a lot more impressive and satisfying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17914" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T22:57:10.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24759" CreationDate="2020-02-04T12:35:50.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how clearly the recipe was written.  Typically a zero minute addition means adding hops directly at flame out and then the wort chilling begins.  A hop stand would typically mean hops are added, usually post boil, and allowed to sit for a defined time and/or a defined temperature.  An example of a hop stand would be &quot;cool wort to 140F, add hops and let stand for 15minutes&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no good designation about the stand then I'd have to assume that the recipe originator doesn't understand the difference either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way zero minute additions and hop standing is intended to add aroma to the beer.  We all need to remember that recipes aren't the sole driver of a great beer.  Its mostly process. Knowing that when I see zero minute or hop stands in a recipe I tend to apply my own preferred process for driving aroma when the specifics are not called out in the recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-02-04T12:35:50.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24759" CreationDate="2020-02-06T04:31:45.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The whole point of a &quot;hop stand&quot; is that below a certain temperature (around 80°C), theoretically very-little/zero bitterness will be extracted from the hops.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process step came about with large brewing equipment, where the wort can remain hot during the possibly lengthy lautering process (where spent grain is removed from wort).  Thus a large &quot;zero minute&quot; addition, supposedly for aroma only, would sit in the hot wort, contributing &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus waiting for the wort to cool below the hop alpha-acid isomerisation temperature, then adding aroma hops (theoretically) results in no increased bitterness.  (Hop alpha-acids, which contribute bitterness, do not readily dissolve into wort unless isomerised).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to experiment with a hop stand, in lieu of having a specific temperature (as @brewchez states), wait until the wort is below 80°C before adding them.  Or just put them in at end-of-boil, and don't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T04:31:45.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24769" CreationDate="2020-02-06T10:30:01.320" Score="4" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm putting together my own brewing calculations spreadsheet to develop a good understanding of the ins and outs of building a beer recipe. For my malt/mash calculations, I've chosen to use the degrees Plato scale because it makes sense to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone smarter than I please check my assumptions/calculations? They are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Degrees Plato = Extract Weight (in kg) / Total Wort Weight (in kg) * 100&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where, Total Wort Weight = Total Extract Weight (in kg) + Water Weight (in kg)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Recipe&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewhouse Efficiency: 75%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wort Volume = 32.4 l&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water Weight ~ 32.4 kg (approximation, good enough here)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Malt 1 - Bestmalz Pilsner&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extract Fine Grind 80.5%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight Used: 5 kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extract Weight = 5 kg * 80.5% * 75% = 3.02 kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Malt 2 - Bestmalz Caramel Hell&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extract Fine Grind 75%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight Used: 1.5 kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extract Weight = 1.5 kg * 75% * 75% = 0.84 kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Total Wort&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extract Weight Total = 3.02 kg + 0.84 kg = 3.86 kg &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water Weight = 32.4 kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total Wort Weight = 3.86 kg + 32.4 kg = 36.26 kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, Degrees Plato = 3.86 kg / 36.26 kg * 100 = 10.65 deg P ~ 1.043 SG...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound right? Any help is much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17923" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T12:53:29.710" Title="Check My Degrees Plato Calculations" Tags="|mash|calculations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24768" CreationDate="2020-02-06T12:53:29.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That all looks correct to me.  Well done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.  Gosh... I haven't calculated a recipe by hand like this for many years.  I used to do so a long time ago, when I first adopted homebrewing software (I use StrangeBrew 1.8).  But I also understand the want or need to develop your own spreadsheet, and cheers to that!  (I love Excel.  I live in Excel.  I've used it for other calculations like pre-boil post-boil post-ferm volume calculations, where other softwares have failed to consider every variable.  And that's just one example of many.  :) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T12:53:29.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6566" CreationDate="2020-02-06T16:43:32.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I grow a few Tahiti lime and lemon trees on my place in the tropics. A year ago I began to experiment making fermented drinks such as ginger ale, ginger lemon etc. When making a fermented lime drink I would always add some starter in it such as ginger bug. But recently I had a 50% lime juice mixed in with 50% water in a 1 liter plastic bottle. It was warm and likely around 30c temperatures at that time. I noticed after about 24 hours that the lime/water mix began to ferment. I left it for another 3 days until it stopped producing gas. I chilled it in the fridge and tried a glass of it straight up, no added sugar. Darned if it wasn't quite nice tasting. I sometimes add a tiny bit of stevia to sweeten it a bit and they're great.&#xA; So my point is that Lime juice with water only will ferment on it's own without the aide of a starter yeast. The ph of the mix was acid as can be and still it fermented really well. I think it will be the same for lemons but I am not sure. I will try those soon I reckon.  cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17925" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T16:43:32.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7225" CreationDate="2020-02-07T15:20:06.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You used the term &quot;lagering&quot;, so if you are truly lagering, the answer is 'it depends'. If your beer is indeed a lager, then your yeast WILL be active....potentially down to freezing temperatures (if your yeast was treated kindly and your temperature lowering regimen was patient).   I only make this point since things are moving very slowly at this stage and fermentation will not be obviouls, but it IS happening and pressure will eventually build up.   The &quot;it depends&quot; part is regarding off flavors. If you are confident that any hydrogen sulfate produced by the lager yeast has been out-gassed, then it's time to seal the corny keg and allow natural carbonation to develop.  Generally late in the lagering (secondary) phase of fermentation, you can rest assured that most of this has already been driven off by more vigorous fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are simply cold conditioning an ale (for whatever reason), then comments posted by others make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17930" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T15:20:06.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24773" CreationDate="2020-02-09T14:29:33.930" Score="5" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a very nice sour beer that had lactobacillus in it and was wondering if I can clean and reuse the bottle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not made any sour beers yet but I've read you should keep separate brewing equipment when making them because even the most conscientious cleaner and sanitiser can't be confident of killing it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I reuse the bottle for beer that doesn't contain lactobacillus? I have a dishwasher if that helps? Would the steam cycle kill it all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17703" LastActivityDate="2020-02-09T14:40:16.443" Title="Can I reuse a bottle that had a sour lactobacillus beer in it?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|sour|bottle|lactobacillus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24772" CreationDate="2020-02-09T14:40:16.443" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bacteria like to hang out in soft surfaces like rubber and plastic, which for us usually includes things like buckets, hoses, and o-rings.  Also any metal fittings for your valves, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass bottles have none of these problems.  You can safely clean and sanitize your bottles and reuse them for any kind of beer.  If you are very concerned, the best way to sterilize them is to bake in an oven at about 175 F for about 5 minutes, then just turn the oven off and let them cool inside the oven slowly for a couple of hours.  That will kill everything guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-02-09T14:40:16.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16496" CreationDate="2020-02-11T14:14:24.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Wakefield and brew all year round in my garage.During winter time, I have a 25 watt Flat bottom heater pad and belt 25 watt heater working together using a 25 L plastic fermenting bucket. I use the STC-1000 to control the temperature. I cover the fermenting bucket in three layers of bubble wrap. This works perfectly for the winter time. The STC-1000 maintains a steady constant temperature with a variance set at 0.5 degrees. For anyone out there I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17936" LastEditorUserId="17936" LastEditDate="2020-02-13T10:57:50.180" LastActivityDate="2020-02-13T10:57:50.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-12T15:09:18.103" Score="3" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to the store where I'd taken a beer brewing class, bottled my beer, noted her instructions about keeping it at 70 degrees in my house, and then merrily went on my way for another five hours running errands and attending a meeting. There my beer sat in my car, and the outside temp was about 38. Inside the car was warmer, of course, but the beer still got cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was only on my way home that I realized I hadn't even thought about the temp of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it ruined? Thankfully, it's only a one-gallon batch, but I struggle to believe that if the bottles of beer are too cold that the carbonation yeast will die; when I bake bread, it's only the high heat of the oven that kills the yeast, and lots of bread recipes explain how to let your bread raise in the refrigerator over night or longer. In fact, I keep my bread yeast in the freezer for years. Is beer yeast so different? Won't the cold temperatures yesterday simply slow it down, but not kill it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So many questions; thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17940" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T02:07:50.073" Title="My newly bottled beer was in &lt;40 degree weather for 6 hours; is it ruined?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24775" CreationDate="2020-02-12T15:20:50.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right. Cold temperatures only slow down the yeast, not completely kill them. As long as the beer is kept at the correct temperature for the rest of the time, it should turn out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T15:20:50.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24775" CreationDate="2020-02-12T19:20:25.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold temperatures don't hurt or kill the yeast, but only slow them down.  In fact at the end of fermentation of my last batch, I had my beer down to 29 F in the garage for about a week, and it's still carbonated just fine in the bottles.  So it's not a concern at all.  Bottle conditioning works best anyplace from about 50-65 F, or so-called &quot;cellar temperature&quot; like a typical basement.  Most primary and secondary fermentations are best in about that range as well.  Beer yeast is happiest there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-03-24T02:07:50.073" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T02:07:50.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-16T23:42:54.643" Score="4" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;The EC-1118 datasheet suggests a procedure wherein you pitch the full amount of yeast in 10% of the total volume of your liquid, and let it ferment until approximately half the sugar is used up, and then adding this to the rest of your liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this specific procedure may not be necessary for me, I’m confused on how to do the measurements. How do you calculate when half the sugar has been used up? Measure the brix with a hydrometer and keep remeasuring until it’s half the original brix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to add: I do understand that calculating the exact amount of residual sugar is much more complex, and is best done with something like clinitest. For this, I don’t think it’s necessary to be extremely precise. I’d just like a method of approximating halfway done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17945" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-02-17T01:10:43.237" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T19:33:30.903" Title="How to approximate when half the sugar has been fermented" Tags="|yeast|cider|wine|mead|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24780" CreationDate="2020-02-17T01:08:03.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refractometers don't measure Brix accurately when alcohol is present.  You're better off using a hydrometer if you really want to know when sugar is half gone, then it's just when gravity points are half of what you started with, e.g., when 1.100 becomes 1.050, approximately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, their procedure isn't critical.  Many people would just give it a day or two, then combine with the rest of the batch, and with good success.  Personally with dried yeast I don't even go that far.  Just sprinkle it into the main batch right away, no &quot;starter&quot; required, and it turns out fine every time.  Dried yeast is extremely reliable.  If you have concern, you can always use 2 packs instead of 1.  Whatever you feel comfortable with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T01:08:03.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3995" CreationDate="2020-02-17T19:27:19.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on much experience where I had many batches go sour unintentionally after the first one did, I can honestly recommend that any and all plastics and rubbers be replaced or dedicated to sours after it happens just one time, just to be on the safe side.  I even tried to decontaminate with a soak in strong bleach solution for several weeks, but this effort was NOT successful for my old plastic buckets, with or without scratches.  In my experience, odds were close to 50/50 of preventing contamination on future batches.  It is for this reason that I have converted to all glass or stainless fermenters for all batches ever since that time, and have never had a problem after.  Your mileage may vary, but I know I don't find it worth the risk to try to reuse these materials after they've seen wild beasts at least one time, regardless of visible or non-visible scratch marks or anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T19:27:19.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24780" CreationDate="2020-02-18T10:39:40.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;DMTaylor is correct: dry pitching dried yeast almost always works. However, there are situations in which the yeast may rehydrate, come out of hybernation and start the fermentation better if certain procedures are followed. Wine yeast strains are different from beer yeast strains and can be a little more temperamental. If Lallemand suggests such a procedure, my assumption is that they don't do that just to make the use of their products more entertaining. :-) This may be a way to minimize the production of unwanted organoleptics, for example, or to get the yeast to follow a certain preferred metabolic pathway. I'm just guessing here, but my approach would be to follow Lallemand's recommendation for optimum results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that, I totally agree with DMTaylor's statements on gravity readings and the fact that you don't need to worry too much about exactly 50% attenuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T10:39:40.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16496" CreationDate="2020-02-18T10:42:28.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way I've found to brew in cold weather is to put the fermenter into a big cardboard box, add a 60W incandescent light as a heating element, and fit it with a simple thermostat to maintain the fermentation temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewforafrica.co.za/blog.html?id=7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewforafrica.co.za/blog.html?id=7&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T10:42:28.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24780" CreationDate="2020-02-18T19:33:30.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lalvin website recommends to rehydrate the yeast:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rehydrate Lalvin EC-1118 in 5 times its weight of potable water at 40°C. Let stand for at least 20 minutes then gently stir occasionally to break up any clumps. Add to the must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en/canada/product-details/lalvin-ec-1118/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en/canada/product-details/lalvin-ec-1118/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you describe is basically a starter.  The difference is that rehydration will only  &quot;wake the yeast&quot; and make it ready to start, as opposed to a starter where the yeast is actually starting to multiply and is more vigorous...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, I wouldn't even measure the 50%, I would just wait to see the yeast active (bubbling, foaming) and then add to the must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T19:33:30.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24062" CreationDate="2020-02-18T22:39:13.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your nutrient contained phosphate.  Most phosphate compounds (besides phosphoric acid and ammonium phosphate) are insoluble.  Part of what happened is the phosphate reacting chemically with other ions in the mead, causing the darkening effect which then settled out over time.  So your update above makes perfect sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;David M. Taylor&#xA;B.S. Chemical Engineering&#xA;Michigan Tech&#xA;Class of 1997&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T22:39:13.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24788" CreationDate="2020-02-19T12:05:13.550" Score="6" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the alpha-amylase enzyme works between 66-71°C (150-160°F) and beta-amylase between 55-66°C (130-150°F). But, beta uses the dextrins produced by the alpha enzyme activity. I want to produce a highly-fermentable wort, so I want to activate alpha first and beta later, when the alpha is done. Is that doable? Is it common practice to heat the wort to alpha-optimum level then wait for it to drop down to beta-optimum level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know enzymes don't stop working, rather their level of activity slows down/speeds up between certain temperatures. If my first question is just plain stupid, what is the best mashing technique for getting a lot of fermentable sugars in my wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14466" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-02-20T20:53:58.843" LastActivityDate="2020-12-31T02:21:07.767" Title="How to do alpha-amylase conversion first and beta second?" Tags="|mash|amylase-enzymes|brewing-enzymes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24787" CreationDate="2020-02-19T13:22:08.580" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Excellent question, which I know every detail-focused brewer wonders about at some point.  The reason we don't go up to alpha temperature right away and then drop down is that the beta enzyme denatures relatively very quickly above about 150°F (65.6°C). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could look into the actual science on this but in my estimation it seems the majority of beta enzymes are gone after the first 30-40 minutes at a temperature of say 155°F (68°C). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, alpha amylase enzyme is very stable and actually active in a very broad range from way down in the 130-168°F (55-75.5C).  Therefore, if you want the benefits of the beta enzyme, all you really need to do is prolong the mash TIME at a temperature of anywhere from 140-150°F (60-66°C), which will speed up the beta activity without denaturing it too quickly.  I find a good compromise at about 148-152°F(64.5-66.5°C), or at the nice round number of 150 F (65.5°C). This is where I mash nearly all my batches, typically aiming for 148-150°F(64.5-65.5°C), and for just 45 minutes typically or about 60 minutes maximum, unless I want very high attenuation then I will mash for 75-90 minutes.  I think mash TIME is too often overlooked as a tool for the brewer. Temperature is important, if you want to understand where the beta and alpha amylase are denatured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you have the temperature in range for both to be very active at say 145-152°F(63-66.5°C) or thereabouts, then the primary variable I think is TIME, not temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-02-20T21:00:43.840" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T21:00:43.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-20T10:22:50.360" Score="0" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if it is possible to transport Star San in checked luggage for an intercontinental flight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to buy a couple of bottles in the US and fly back to Europe and I wonder if it's possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="717" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T11:52:10.673" Title="Is it possible to transport Star San in checked in luggage?" Tags="|starsan|transport|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24789" CreationDate="2020-02-20T11:52:10.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While &lt;strong&gt;inquiring with the FAA or other appropriate authorities is the only way to get a proper answer&lt;/strong&gt; to that question, offhand my thought would be &quot;No.&quot; Star San is a blend of phosphoric acid and dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid. Since acids are classified (under aviation and other regulations) as corrosive liquids I expect this would not be allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not you can get away with it is of course another matter, but it's not a gamble I myself would want to take, especially not in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T11:52:10.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24787" CreationDate="2020-02-20T21:08:25.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most of our brews we shoot for 65°C (148°F)for 90 min, we find this gives us a highly fermentable wort with enough longer chain dextrins for good mouthfeel. This is the usual temp I see most of my colleagues going for apart from those doing the more weird stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For stouts we shoot for 68°C (155°F), for more mouthfeel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that in older less well modified malts, one of the things that decoction mashing helped with was a way to allow all the enzymes their time and temperature. Also, a nice reliable way to brew when you did not have a thermometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way is a hard one to answer, but I would suggest as dmtaylor suggests aim for 65°C for 90 min and this is a great balance between ease and efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T21:08:25.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2431" CreationDate="2020-02-22T01:44:02.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to reuse these.  Here's how I did it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;amp;t=21461&amp;amp;hilit=heineken&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;amp;t=21461&amp;amp;hilit=heineken&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the beers started tasting metallic after the first couple batches.  So keep that in mind.  It's a short term thing only as far as I can tell.  I don't reuse these kegs anymore.  But I did for a while.  It does work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-02-22T01:44:02.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-22T19:57:28.297" Score="1" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I seem to be the king of low alcohol beer!  I have just brewed the  “Make Your Own American IPA”  from the Range.  It started fermenting (quite aggressively) within a day.  I left it for approx 14 days until I added the hops and at 21 days I tasted it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions say that you can bottle it “once it no longer tastes sweet” or in other words I guess when all the sugar had turned to alcohol (to quote the Holsten Pils advert from the 80’s). It didn’t taste sweet, in fact it tasted quite bitter, and when I use my hydrometer it also says that is has no alcohol in it!  (See pic)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Szy0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Szy0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what I am doing wrong?  This has happened on the last couple of batches that I have made as well.  Should I leave it longer or bottle it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15244" LastActivityDate="2020-02-22T20:08:27.910" Title="How am I (accidentally) making low alcohol beer?" Tags="|alcohol-content|americanipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24794" CreationDate="2020-02-22T20:08:27.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, that is not the way a hydrometer is used. What you measure is the density of the wort/beer, which shows how many &lt;em&gt;sugar&lt;/em&gt; is contained in the liquid. The amount of sugar in liquid solution increases the density (or gravity) of the liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start of the brew you have a certain &amp;quot;Original Gravity&amp;quot; or OG, which, depending upon the wort made, can be between, let's say, 1.040 and 1.100 (broadly speaking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the yeast ferments the sugar, then the gravity drops, because the sugar disappears. At the end of the fermentation you measure the &amp;quot;Final Gravity&amp;quot; or FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple formula to calculate the alcohol in your beer is 131 X (OG - FG) (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alcohol_by_volume#Practical_estimation_of_alcohol_content&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;but see the Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important question now for you is: did you measure the gravity of your wort after brewing, before you pitched the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2020-02-22T20:08:27.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9719" CreationDate="2020-02-23T23:13:44.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read on the Five Star Starsan site that it is only good for an hour. The best malt shop  in Quebec recommands metabisulfite in your airlock. They also explain why your starsan can be cloudy but doesn’t seem to have an impact&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17956" LastActivityDate="2020-02-23T23:13:44.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23615" CreationDate="2020-02-24T14:12:36.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer-N-BBQ by Larry says hops absorb 0,0033L of wort per gram. I don't know where the value actually comes from though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14466" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T14:12:36.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24787" CreationDate="2020-02-24T15:55:08.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;dmtaylor&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Mr_road&lt;/em&gt; have good answers, and aiming for a temperature in-between is the easiest way to achieve your goal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can increase or decrease your temperature if you want to try.  Here are a few tips (some that I found here:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrewacademy.com/missed-mash-temp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://homebrewacademy.com/missed-mash-temp/&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To increase temperature&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add boiling water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat the mash directly (if in a kettle setup or using heating element)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perform a decoction mash (heat part of the liquid you already have and add it back)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To lower temperature&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add ice cubes or cold water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a wort chiller&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a frozen container (like an ice-pack)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the mash tun and stir a little (less effective, but still)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T15:55:08.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24801" CreationDate="2020-02-24T16:38:41.803" Score="5" ViewCount="1170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a high ABV mead, and plan to divide the honey into 3 or 4 increments for the yeast. This has to be done so that the yeast are not under stress from osmotic pressure. However, I don't know how to calculate ABV if I am lowering and raising the gravity. How would one calculate the ABV?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T11:33:33.430" Title="How to calculate ABV% with step feeding" Tags="|mead|specific-gravity|alcohol-content|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18220" CreationDate="2020-02-25T11:20:09.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made many amazing hedgerow wines without using sulphites. I started years ago by using recipes from old farmhouse cook books. These used just basic ingredients which I did too. Mostly I pour boiling water over the wild fruit, leaves etc. when making the first 'must'. Later (after reading more modern wine making books)I started to add some pectolase enzyme just incase of wild yeast remaining. I have never used Campden tablets. I prefer the wine to be as organic as possible so I just leave it a long time (several months) to be sure it has completely finished fermenting. I also advise people I give the odd bottle to, to keep it in a cool place. Yes I have experienced bottles going bang when kept in a warm place! Good luck! I too can't bear to ruin a good wine with nasty chemicals!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17958" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T11:20:09.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24799" CreationDate="2020-02-25T11:33:33.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Calculate the recipe as if you were adding all the honey up front.  Also take an original gravity reading with just a partial amount of honey present; if you divide the gravity points by the number of pounds of mead you used, you should know how many more points will be added later on.  For instance, if you were say adding 9 pounds of honey up front, then another 9 pounds later on, if the OG from the first 9 pounds turns out to be 1.063, then you know that with the entire 18 pounds it would have been 63 times 2 or 1.126.  Or since 63 divided by 9 is 7, there are (perhaps) 7 points added per pound of honey, so if you added 7 pounds instead of 9 then you would be adding 7 times 7 = 49, or 1.063 + 1.049 = 1.112.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a 5-gallon batch I think the typical number for most honey is about 7-8 points per pound.  Multiplying that by 5, that translates to about 35-40 points per pound per gallon.  Each particular honey is different, hence the range of 35-40 ppg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bit of mathematics you can figure this out.  And software helps, such as BeerSmith or BrewersFriend.com or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T11:33:33.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24804" CreationDate="2020-02-26T12:54:22.883" Score="3" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was about to leave this morning, I noticed that one of my carboys has this white mold growing on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/liEMW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/liEMW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 8 years of homebrewing, this is the first time it happens. This is a braggot I've been aging for 6 months and I had recently racked it off to remove some sediment. I guess something got inside during that process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of racking it tonight and discard the head and hopefully, that could help it? Any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17964" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T10:36:30.833" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T10:36:30.833" Title="Suggestions on how to deal with contamination?" Tags="|contamination|racking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24803" CreationDate="2020-02-26T13:15:12.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Racking to secondary probably introduced the contamination.  You can try to kill the contamination by racking from under it and also adding Campden or metabisulfite chemical in the amounts recommended by the manufacturer (typically this is 1 Campden tablet per gallon, or equivalent).  Also, taste the batch -- it might already be souring or otherwise not taste very good, in which case you might want to dump it out.  Otherwise it is best if you can drink it as soon as possible before the contamination has any chance to progress any further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T13:15:12.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-28T20:09:25.200" Score="3" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if I should agitate the carboy during fermentation/towards the end when it starts to slow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17969" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-02-29T01:37:04.410" LastActivityDate="2020-03-08T13:59:15.970" Title="Should I agitate my beer [rock the carboy] while it's fermenting?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24805" CreationDate="2020-02-29T01:39:46.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can if you want.  I find it to be helpful sometimes in knocking the krausen back down so the yeast will settle out sooner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I sometimes swirl the fermenter gently to blend some yeast back into suspension on purpose to ensure full attenuation for yeasts that flocculate too quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your best judgment.  If you think you should, I say go ahead and do it.  Just be gentle so that you aren't adding a lot of oxygen back in, as that could lead to faster staling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-03-08T13:59:15.970" LastActivityDate="2020-03-08T13:59:15.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24102" CreationDate="2020-03-02T11:54:38.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your recipe seems fine. I usually use only a tablespoon full of ginger bug. I think you're opening the bottle way too soon. Carbonation needs at least 5 days. 7 will be better. I suggest you use soda bottle to bottle it. The hardness will tell what's going on. if it goes a bit out of shape, you can burp the bottle by opening it a bit. That should solve your problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17976" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T11:54:38.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24810" CreationDate="2020-03-02T16:40:14.713" Score="4" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brew at home, where quite a few other persons live too. One of them has catched a common cold. Is there risk of sick person contaminating batch and if such a risk exists could common cold or similar mild infection causing viruses and/ or bacteria survive in wort post boil and if they do, how long could they survive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually I have postponed brewing or any other brew related activities at such an event, but as spring is coming quite early this year, I'm running out of brewing season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16356" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T17:52:20.403" Title="Brewing when sick person is on premises" Tags="|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24809" CreationDate="2020-03-02T17:52:20.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. There are no know pathogens that can survive in beer, wine or any booze. You are safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T17:52:20.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-03T02:18:36.307" Score="1" ViewCount="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;My homebrew club hosted a Fantasy Homebrew Draft, where each brewer drafted an ingredient round by round. The rules are you have to brew with and only with 6 of 8 ingredients you drafted. Finings and Water agents are exempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've come up with a Black IPA recipe that should be solid. However, my drafted yeast is Multi Strain Culture/Blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is what is a good blend of yeasts for a Black IPA that will finish from 1.075 to 1.013 to 1.011?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17978" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-03-07T18:58:57.020" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T18:58:57.020" Title="Black IPA Yeast Blend" Tags="|yeast|ipa|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24813" CreationDate="2020-03-05T08:41:20.423" Score="6" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this question doesn't really comply to standards but, I wanted to know if we can mix beers after, say cold crash. I want to create different beers using the ones I already brewed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I mix ales with lagers for example? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know big breweries mix different batches to keep the profile stable. But, I want to do this to create new and more complex beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14466" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-03-07T18:57:05.100" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T18:57:05.100" Title="How to mix beers?" Tags="|beer|beer-styles|experiments|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24812" CreationDate="2020-03-05T14:15:03.210" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. In fact I did it a few times myself, blending too dark beers for my taste with some lighter beers to create the perfect depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if the mixed beers use different yeast strains, it is possible they both have different attenuation levels. The yeast from one beer can continue to ferment the sugars of the other beer. Fermentation starts again and this can be a problem when you bottle the mixed beer again. If you mix in the glass, go crazy and try different combinations and ratio's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15915" LastActivityDate="2020-03-05T14:15:03.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-07T09:31:32.977" Score="2" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I successfully completed a first all grain batch on the brewzilla (OG 1.048). Airlock activity ~every min at day 14 (yeast S-04 @ 18dc).&#xA;Dry hopped loose (~80g total) on day 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just let go until no activity? How long is too long?&#xA;What about the hops, how long can you dry hop for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17983" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-03-10T15:01:18.377" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T15:01:18.377" Title="Fermentation time" Tags="|fermentation|all-grain|dry-hop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24814" CreationDate="2020-03-07T10:17:53.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main indication would be to measure the final gravity of the wort, don't look at the activity in the airlock. However, if you kept it in a room without too much temperature variation at ambient temperature, it should be finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;W.r.t. to the dry hop, my experience is that it is more dependent upon the variety of the hops if you get off-flavors from dry hopping. I successfully dry hopped for a couple weeks without grassy aftertastes, but I also dry hopped with bittering hops (just experimenting) which gave an extra bitter edge to the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T10:17:53.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24814" CreationDate="2020-03-07T12:10:55.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let it go. Hops contain enzymes so you are likely seeing renewed fermentation which could continue in the bottles or keg if you package it too quickly. Concerns regarding prolonged contact with dry hops are largely overblown. In my experience you are unlikely to experience any detrimental effects for several more weeks and it will not take that long for fermentation to cease unless there might be some unlikely contamination by wild yeast. Let it ride. When in doubt I find that patience is always the best option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T12:10:55.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13435" CreationDate="2020-03-09T08:01:16.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The skin of sultanas or raisins have natural occurring yeast needed for the fermentation process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older recipes typically used a 'ginger bug' derived from the yeast on sultana skin in stead of brewers yeast. It is not coincidental for the sultanas to float as this indicative of the fermentation process active also within the swollen sultanas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17987" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-03-10T15:04:48.200" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T15:04:48.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24835" CreationDate="2020-03-09T10:55:30.943" Score="1" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;MegaPot 1.2 All-Grain Brewing System VS Northern Brewer All Grain Cooler System&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any one know which one of these systems is more reliable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m not looking to build my own; I just want to buy a full system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or can you recommend another system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13886" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-03-22T18:18:07.427" LastActivityDate="2020-03-22T18:31:49.887" Title="MegaPot 1.2 All-Grain Brewing System VS Northern Brewer All Grain Cooler System" Tags="|beer|all-grain|brewing|beer-styles|kettle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-09T17:14:18.813" Score="2" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;Newbie to the word of brewing here in need of a little help please.&#xA;I have a couple of questions I can't find the answer to first off.&#xA;Cloudy beer&#xA;I have brewed a Coopers dark ale from a tin kit it was started on Saturday 29th Feb 2020. I used a spray malt enhancer as advised by Coopers.&#xA;It brewed very well started off with OG 1040 and now has a reading 1010 smells and tastes great even if flat and warm lol.&#xA;The issue I have is it does not look to be clearing at all. Is there anything I can do to speed up the clearing of the beer? I want to bottle next weekend but I don't want to bottle very cloudy beer.&#xA;Please help a struggling beer brewing virgin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second question: How long should I leave the brewing vessel on a heat pad for? I'm using a pad as we don't have anywhere with a constant temp. Is it for the whole fermentation of just the first couple of days? I can't seem to find the answers to the two burning questions.&#xA;Can anyone please help?&#xA;Thanks &#xA;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17984" LastEditorUserId="17776" LastEditDate="2020-03-10T19:36:04.350" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T19:36:04.350" Title="Cloudy Beer Please help" Tags="|beer|cloudy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24820" CreationDate="2020-03-09T18:38:26.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answer on your first question: young fermented beer is always cloudy, it will only clear in the bottle. The cloudiness in this stage is caused by the yeast, and that takes some time to drop out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, it is connected to your second question. By keeping it warm, your beer will ferment out fine, but it will stay cloudy longer, because the yeast stays active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, turn off your heat pad, and let your beer stand another week before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I you have the possibility to block the airlock so that it does not suck in air (using a plug or something), move your fermentation vessel to a cooler place for this week. This will help drop out the yeast, and clear your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After bottling, keep your bottles for two weeks at ambient temperature so that it carbonates, then put it for two weeks at cellar temperature. At the end of the first two weeks carbonation, take a bottle, put it in your fridge for 24h, then open it to inspect carbonation and taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will notice, when you keep the bottles against the light, a bit of cloudiness. This will normally be yeast still in suspension. You won't taste it. The longer your beer rests, the more clear it will become.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T18:38:26.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24823" CreationDate="2020-03-10T15:27:27.060" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard there are beer styles that purposefully create diacetyl as part of the flavor profile. What styles (or even specific brews) intentionally create diacetyl?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17989" LastActivityDate="2020-03-12T00:40:49.450" Title="When is diacetyl desirable?" Tags="|beer-styles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24822" CreationDate="2020-03-10T15:53:19.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;English Ales, Czech lagers, and Chardonnay wines; to name a few.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T15:53:19.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24826" CreationDate="2020-03-13T11:32:02.217" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should you use boiled tap water or mineral water when making spirit? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17992" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-03-13T12:50:12.897" LastActivityDate="2020-03-13T13:31:36.473" Title="Are there benefits to using mineral water in your mash?" Tags="|mash|water|distillation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24825" CreationDate="2020-03-13T13:31:36.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making spirits, the goal is usually to create a quick and clean fermentation of mash. If the tap water in your area would prevent the fermentation from being clean or fast, then a mineral or spring water would be fine. I see no problem in using either water if both are good for yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2020-03-13T13:31:36.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-17T11:59:13.763" Score="1" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the coronavirus keeps spreading, I was wondering if we can use the sanitizers that we use in brewing for personal hygiene? I'm having difficulties finding sanitizers as everything is sold out here. Have any of you tested this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14466" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2020-03-17T13:50:10.680" LastActivityDate="2020-03-17T13:50:10.680" Title="Can I Use My Sanitizers(PBW, Starsan) For Personal Hygiene?-CORONAVIRUS RELATED" Tags="|sanitation|sanitizer|starsan|safety|pbw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24827" CreationDate="2020-03-17T13:49:13.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Not because they might not be effective, but because they are not made with your skin in mind. Their pH values, either acid or alkaline, are not compatible with your skin, and products for personal hygiene will also contain product to care for your skin, even alcoholic hand sanitiser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a real soap and scrub well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2020-03-17T13:49:13.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24827" CreationDate="2020-03-17T13:49:47.877" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Use soap and water. Wash your hands for 20-30 seconds and make sure you wash your whole hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what dilution you would have to use to maintain efficacy or what dilution you would have to be below to not give yourself chemical burns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cftbg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cftbg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;How to wash hands WHO guidance&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-03-17T13:49:47.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24831" CreationDate="2020-03-19T13:11:48.270" Score="7" ViewCount="1409" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am into making kombucha at home: I made a SCOBY, grew it, and I have successful kombuchas. My normal recipe makes a &quot;ginger kombucha&quot;, pretty much kombucha with sugar and ginger. It disappears after around a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I decided to make a plain batch: kombucha and just kombucha. It's been in the fridge since the first of February, getting drunk every now and then. I tasted it today (~45 days) and it smells / tastes slightly reminiscent of wine. However, I can't tell whether it is alcoholic or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was alcoholic, some searching around told me that people making drinks like beer can use a brewer's hydrometer; you measure its specific gravity before and after to find the % alcohol by volume. Would this work for kombucha becoming alcoholic, and if so, do I measure as the kombucha goes into the bottle (as OG) and use other measurements throughout as its FG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18002" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T11:45:11.143" Title="How to know if kombucha is alcoholic?" Tags="|fermentation|specific-gravity|alcohol-content|kombucha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24830" CreationDate="2020-03-19T17:08:42.197" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the hydrometer is used the amount of sugar in the solution, not the amount of alcohol. So you can measure the original gravity (OG), and the final gravity (FG), but in kombucha the alcohol produced by the fermentation is transformed into acetic and other acids. So you can not measure if there really is alcohol in the kombucha.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to know for sure would be to heat the solution for a long time to more than 80°C, but less than the boiling point for water, and then check what the weight is after the heating. Since the boiling point for acetic acid is around 118°C, if there is a reasonable difference, you would be reasonably sure that there is more alcohol in the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2020-03-19T17:08:42.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24819" CreationDate="2020-03-22T18:31:49.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with either, but taking a look on Northern Brewer's website I am guessing you are comparing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/northern-brewer-all-grain-system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cooler system&lt;/a&gt; with this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/collections/starter-kits-for-new-brewers/products/premium-craft-brewery-in-a-box-beer-making-starter-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mega pot system&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me, given the similar prices, I would go for the one with a chunk of stainless at its heart, the Mega Pot, as it will last you a lifetime with a few replacement seals, and valve seats. Then you can add/replace/extend as you want or grow in your craft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-03-22T18:31:49.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-22T19:12:26.957" Score="5" ViewCount="1775" Body="&lt;p&gt;1st batch was fantastic, tasty, sweet, delicious hot and cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the same process for 2nd batch:&#xA;Cooked the rice 2 cup water/1 cup rice ratio, let it cool in a container 3/4 of rice and a fine layer of koji (saké yeast), then added rice, yeast, etc up to the top, put a loose lid on top, stored in the coolest part of my house, after 1-2 weeks the rice ferments, the saké begins to form... I tried it, and ewwrrrhh... sour! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last time, the taste was perfect, ready to bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my question: should I add a bit more sugar to make it sweet? Or will that ruin it more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18009" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-03-23T01:35:49.070" LastActivityDate="2023-04-16T18:44:23.943" Title="Why my saké turned out sour?" Tags="|brewing|sour|sake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25586" CreationDate="2020-03-24T06:50:30.030" Score="2" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into brewing a mead in the near future. I have exactly 0 experience brewing anything. I'm going to buy a store-bought brewing kit in the next few weeks if everything lines up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if anyone's ever made a Caramel Coffee Mead, and if so do you have a recipe, or any tips on how to make it work. I want at least an 8% ABV, but no more than 16%. I'm looking for it to be a fairly sweet drink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is the right way to ask this question, feel free to delete if this isnt something that fits this stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18012" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-03-24T17:19:47.127" LastActivityDate="2021-06-06T14:43:53.033" Title="Caramel Coffee Mead" Tags="|mead|brewing|beginner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24836" CreationDate="2020-03-24T08:01:15.943" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based upon your answer in the comments, I suppose that your sake has been contaminated by acetobacter. These bacteria convert ethanol into vinegar. That means you now have nice sake vinegar. As such it is probably usable in your kitchen after pasteurizing and somewhat diluting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now as for the source of the contamination, you need to take into account proper cleaning and sanitizing practices throughout your process. Buy a cleaner like PBW, a no rinse sanitizer like Star San, and make sure that all your equipment is clean before you start, and that your fermentation vessel is sanitized before you add the ingredients to be fermented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you let things cool, cover them with a lid and possibly with an extra towel (over the lid), also to avoid contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully your next brew succeeds again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T08:01:15.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24830" CreationDate="2020-03-25T11:45:11.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kombucha contains a variety of micro-organisms, the most important ones of which are brewing yeast (Saccharomyces Cerevisae) and Acetobacter. The S. Cereviseae converts sugar into alcohol, after which the Acetobacter combines the alcohol with oxygen into acetic acid (vinegar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both are in good shape and present in the proper quantities, and your Kombucha is sufficiently oxygenated, these two should work in a balanced fashion and the amount of residual alcohol should be minimal. And, of course, the amount of fermentable sugars you start with should not be excessive which, in most Kombucha recipes, should give you less than a percent or so of alcohol to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T11:45:11.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9847" CreationDate="2020-03-25T16:33:08.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For sure it depends on the size of the brewery. At our &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.buffbrew.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brewery in Houston&lt;/a&gt; we do mash every day because we're pushing our products hard in the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18015" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T16:33:08.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-25T19:44:54.203" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I followed a recipe called &quot;hoppy red ale&quot; and I just took a sample after 14 days in the fermenter. I'm a little disappointed that it's not as red as I thought it would be. It's more of a brown / golden yellow. My second confusion is the fact that it tastes very similar to my first recipe, although slightly darker / roasted. So looking at these recipes, why didn't the second one turn out as red and why does it taste so much like the first one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First recipe (Pale Ale)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/2lb crystal 20l&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/2lb American 2-row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5.5lbs DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2oz Centennial hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2oz Cascade hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US05&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second recipe (Hoppy Red Ale)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1lb CaraVienna 35&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1/2lb Crystal 55&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1/8lb Roastbar 500&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;6lbs DME&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2oz Centennial hops&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1oz Amarillo hops&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1oz Amarillo hops (dry hopped)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Imperial A07&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18017" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T19:44:54.203" Title="Red Ale didn't turn out how I thought it would" Tags="|recipe|recipe-formulation|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="555" CreationDate="2020-03-26T06:21:13.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually &quot;oxygen bleaches&quot; are sanitizing and are regularly used for that purpose, Oxiclean is just one brand. The problem is concentration levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18019" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T06:21:13.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-27T17:53:50.647" Score="0" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started to drink a batch of coopers Dark ale it has been bottled for two weeks now.&#xA;the carbonation looks ok a nice hiss when the bottle is opend. lots of bubbles in the glass and and lots of bubbles rising to the surface. but no head at all I used a dark enhancer as advised by coopers.&#xA;Also the beer does not tast like beer realy. it tastes like a soft drink the ABV was 4.2. I cant tast any hoppiness in the beer or many beer flavors at all. but what i can tast is very nice&#xA;Any ideas please &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17984" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T17:53:50.647" Title="Beer is lacking in flavor" Tags="|beer|coopers|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-27T19:04:39.077" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My wife&lt;/em&gt;™️ and I made a yeast starter last night using the usual H2O with DME, and we wanted to culture the yeast from a can of beer we've had in the pantry for some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The can of beer we chose was 4 &lt;em&gt;four&lt;/em&gt; corners el superbee, it's a local beer brewed in the dallas metroplex area, and from drinking previous cans of beer, I've always noticed quite a bit of yeast at the bottom of the can, so I thought I'd attempt to try and build a starter from the dregs left within the can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've successfully cultured yeast from bottles of beer before, but have never attempted to culture yeast from a can, so thus the reason for my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate any and all constructive feedback on this subject matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;March 28, 2020&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;below is a picture of what i'm seeing ~ 30 to 36 hours later after pitching the yeast from the can into the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/un6hX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/un6hX.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3434" LastEditorUserId="3434" LastEditDate="2020-03-28T23:34:55.127" LastActivityDate="2020-03-29T06:36:08.873" Title="Making a starter from a can of beer" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24846" CreationDate="2020-03-28T08:30:35.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no reason why the process should be different between culturing from a can or culturing from a bottle. At the filling outlet, the beers should be the same for both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I would add, and emphasize, always use fresh cans or bottles. Inspect the packaging date, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that might be more difficult is seeing how much you already poured out from a can, versus a bottle. Keep your can first a couple of days in the fridge so that the yeast is dropped out well and maybe a little bit compacted, so that you have more chance to keep it in the can before you add your starter wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: a bit more about propagating yeast from bottles and cans (after seeing the attached media)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use starter wort of about 5 Bx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with 5 ml starter wort for your step. Use this to rinse your bottle/can and put this in a small vial&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only after this has fermented out, step up to larger volumes, but not more than 10x the previous volume. If you don't have a stir plate, use lower volumes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2020-03-29T06:36:08.873" LastActivityDate="2020-03-29T06:36:08.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-28T18:49:06.490" Score="1" ViewCount="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;We do not have sassafrass or sarsaparilla here in Turkey. But we do have terebinth. And I believe they are really similar. Have any of you had any experience on this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually roots of sarsaparilla is commonly used in root beers nowadays. I wonder if anyone had an experiment with terebinth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18028" LastActivityDate="2020-03-28T18:49:06.490" Title="Can I use terebinth instead of Sarsaparilla for root beer?" Tags="|root-beer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24850" CreationDate="2020-03-30T22:47:37.687" Score="1" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a new batch. I am using extract and a yeast that I have never used before: SafAle BE-256. I got a nice healthy Krausen by the morning after brew day, with massive CO2 activity, but by the following morning, 36h after brewing, krausen was completely gone and CO2 activity decreased quite a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems a bit fast so I am worried something has gone wrong.  Can this be normal? Fermentis website says it ferments fast, didnt expect that fast....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17990" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-04-03T12:45:49.557" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T12:45:49.557" Title="Krausen gone after 24h. Is it normal?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24849" CreationDate="2020-03-31T19:32:51.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, not all kraüsens stay fluffy during the whole fermentation. There are high and low kraüsens, long lasting and short lived kraüsens. You can't use them as a measure for your fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, I know the BE-256, it is indeed a rather powerful yeast. However, you should give it the normal fermentation time. Sometimes a fast initial fermentation is followed by a longer lasting slower fermentation. Measure your gravity after five days, and then again five days later. This will give you a better indication of the fermentation, and when it is possibly finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check your ambient temperature and try to make it that it doesn't fluctuate too much. To finish fermentation it is helpful to be able to increase the ambient temperature if possible, or at least to not let it drop under 20° C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2020-03-31T19:32:51.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-02T00:57:34.867" Score="3" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm VERY new to homebrewing. This is my first 5gal batch. I moved from primary to secondary after 1-2 weeks. I then (due to life, work, forgetting to order bottles) have left the beer in the secondary for 1.5 months. It is an IPA. I'm wondering if I should pitch additional yeast when I bottle or is there enough active yeast to carbonate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18034" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T01:25:38.983" Title="Should I add yeast when bottling an IPA after sitting in secondary for 1.5 months" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|bottling|secondary-fermentation|priming|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24851" CreationDate="2020-04-02T01:25:38.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question.  There &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be enough yeast still present to carbonate your bottles.  If you want to be sure, it wouldn't be wrong just to add about 1 gram of fresh yeast before bottling.  You don't need a whole pack, just a tiny amount.  But this is optional.  I'll bet if you don't add any more yeast it will still carbonate just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T01:25:38.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-02T12:35:25.760" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was gifted a 5 gallon Imperial IPA kit which did not come with yeast. It recommends either Safale US-05 Dry Yeast or Omega Yeast OYL009. Times being what they are, Omega is sold out and shipping Safale US-05 won't get it here for 14 days, and costs way more than the yeast itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have White Labs Edinburgh Scottish Ale yeast, Nottingham Dry Ale yeast, and I've got a some Duvel Belgian Golden Ale yeast harvested, as well as their Grand Reserve (whatever those strains are). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts on what would work well with an IIPA? The only one of these I've used is the Nottingham. I just bottled a small batch of ale using it, but haven't tasted a finished beer. Alternatively, should I go buy some IPA that is bottle conditioned and harvest that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18037" LastEditorUserId="18037" LastEditDate="2020-04-02T13:11:47.533" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T13:11:47.533" Title="Alternative Yeast Options for IIPA" Tags="|yeast|ipa|ale|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-02T16:54:34.590" Score="5" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this has been asked before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do they make yeast commercially?, I mean where does they get starter yeast?&#xA;Is it possible to do the same at home? (I know I can just buy it, but I'm curious)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18036" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-04-03T13:18:17.440" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T18:27:55.537" Title="Production of yeast" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-02T17:15:04.373" Score="2" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't brewed in a couple of years and am getting back up to speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm starting off with a small 10L fermentation using extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Azacca (11.9% AA), citra (12.8% AA) and lemondrop (5% AA) hops + Belle Saison yeast - you can probably guess the style I'm aiming for - hoppy, fruity, citrussy saison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target IBU of 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.25kg extra light DME at the start of the boil, hot break.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.75kg extra light DME late addition 15m before flame out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.1-0.3kg dextrose at flameout.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target O.G. = 1.074-1.084, Target F.G. = 1.014, Target Abv. = 7.8-9.2%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommended yeast temperature range is 15-35C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) What is the concencus on 30min hop additions? Recent reading seems to indicate that big IPA flavours can just be achieved through bittering hops, little-to-no middle additions, but then &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of late additions, 10mins or later. I've also read on here that hop constituents and their interactions are too complex to worry about such defined time intervals, and that 60min, 30m and 15-0min additions are still the &quot;norm&quot; as you get a good spread of boil times across your hops&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) For a target fermentation volume of 10L, what weight of hops would I &quot;expect&quot; to use? 20g of each variety maybe? I do not want this to be a bland beer and I have no idea how much hop flower to throw in to the brew for the flavour. Obviously it's not something that Brewer's Friend can calculate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Should I calculate my hop schedule starting from flavour/aroma additions back to using the highest AA hops to achieve the bulk of my desired bitterness? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) I have done about 5 extract brews in the past. Mostly of an IPA style. I have found that 7-7.5% ABV is a very good balance between the beer having body (I don't use adjucts to supplement mouthfeel at this time) and not having an unpleasant alcohol taste, like vodka. I suppose yeast is a big factor here, and I've not used the yeast specified here before. I've always used Safale US-05. Is there anything I can do with my recipe to avoid this alcolol taste? I would like to hit the 9% mark with this brew, the yeast is certainly capable of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Is 11g of yeast too much for a 10L brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for reading :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastActivityDate="2023-02-24T23:53:02.370" Title="Beginner advice on hop weights, scheduling and &quot;alcohol taste&quot;" Tags="|hops|extract-brewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24858" CreationDate="2020-04-03T12:21:26.583" Score="5" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw it in a video about hydrometer, and I can't find anywhere where to buy this gigantic dropper. what are its name and size? It seems about 250ml which is what I need. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The tube in the center, ignore the tube on two sides&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LkiwK.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LkiwK.png&quot; alt=&quot;The tube in the center, ignore the tube on two sides&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;that dropper in his hand! its not a dropper I just dont know its name at all!!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V0fSi.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V0fSi.png&quot; alt=&quot;that dropper in his hand! its not a dropper I just dont know its name at all!!&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18041" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T13:56:15.490" Title="What is the name for this gigantic dropper or pipe that a person use to suck liquid out of a container?" Tags="|hydrometer|measurements|beer-tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24857" CreationDate="2020-04-03T14:31:52.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is called a 'wine thief'. This should be readily available in any homebrew shop. Possibly in several sizes and qualities even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T14:31:52.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-03T16:37:32.933" Score="0" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a long shot but I know how crafty beer brewers are!  Currently making THC infused lemonades ( Legal State ) however the facility I now work for wants to scale up to produce approx 1875-4000 gallons per month. I am trying to solidify the beverage production process to produce a safe shelf stable product and also to figure out exactly what equipment will be required for production. This will be canned 3rd party. any help or information pertaining to this would help tremendously. Currently producing and using potassium sorbate as inhibitor however that does not kill only prevent. I assume pasteurizing is a must for this to be stable 1 year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18047" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T16:37:32.933" Title="Anyone familiar with flat soft drink production? Lemonade to be precise!" Tags="|equipment|lemonade|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-03T16:40:27.833" Score="3" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no yeast in the house, but I do have a sourdough starter (for bread). I was wondering if it is possible to use sourdough starter in place of yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Googling just found me lots of bread recipes, and this question is the opposite of &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/510&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18048" LastActivityDate="2020-04-04T13:24:51.833" Title="Using sourdough starter to brew beer" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24854" CreationDate="2020-04-03T18:27:55.537" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost certainly the &lt;em&gt;starter yeast&lt;/em&gt; is yeast slurry that's been stored frozen in liquid nitrogen. Interestingly, one of the most common methods is to store it inside sealed-off portions of plastic drinking straws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial yeast labs have large collections (sometimes called libraries) of pure cultures of different strains of yeast stored this way (pure culture meaning that all cells in the culture are genetically identical). These &quot;stock&quot; cultures, as they're called, are essentially used to seed larger and larger fermentations, in which the yeast cells multiply, until they yield enough yeast to divide up into &quot;pitchable&quot; quantities. Based on how brewing yeast reproduce (by asexual budding) all growth (new yeast cells) should be genetically the same as the mother cell, though of course mutations do occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These pure cultures, originally, are either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acquired from another laboratory/collection OR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Isolated from colonies cultured on media (agar plates), which can generally be ensured to have grown from a single cell (sourced from other beers, wild fruit, really anywhere you might find yeast).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are of course many other methods for storing yeast &lt;em&gt;long(er) term&lt;/em&gt;, such as sub-culturing regularly, freeze-drying or vacuum-drying (instant/active-dry yeast), but liquid nitrogen is generally considered the most genetically stable (and is relatively straightforward).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You absolutely can do this kind of stuff at home, it really is only limited by how far you want to take it. In general &lt;em&gt;at home&lt;/em&gt; you'll simply be making regular sub-cultures, either in liquid media or on agar &lt;em&gt;slants&lt;/em&gt;, however there's nothing (aside from experience and know-how [and money]) keeping the home brewer from succeeding using the exact same methods as commercial labs do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T18:27:55.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24861" CreationDate="2020-04-04T13:24:51.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find the reference, I think it's in a book titled &quot;A Sip Through Time&quot; which is recipes from around the 1500s and on. I thought there was a recipe where they specifically used bread yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think what I would do would be make a small amount of wort, 1.040 OG, like making a normal beer yeast starter. Cool to happy yeast temperatures, mix a small amount of your sourdough starter and see if it starts fermenting. Do this for a few steps up in wort volume, and see what happens before pitching in your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18037" LastActivityDate="2020-04-04T13:24:51.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16993" CreationDate="2020-04-05T18:41:54.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can also be done with adding nano emulsion of THC Distillate. I am currently making  THC infused lemonade and teas using this method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18047" LastEditorUserId="18047" LastEditDate="2020-04-06T15:41:37.150" LastActivityDate="2020-04-06T15:41:37.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-05T22:06:10.447" Score="6" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can not seem to find an answer to the question how kombucha is made from scratch without already posessing SCOBY or kombucha. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example a sourdough starter is grown only from flour and water, flour being a form of wheat. &#xA;Something similar I found for miso paste which is produced by combining soy beans and mouldy rice. Although mouldy rice is a bit shady biznis, there are ways to grow it without a starter.&#xA;I would like to hear a similar explanation for SCOBY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I tried to google this I was only able to find some legends about one historical ancient SCOBY that is still alive and is a source of all contemporary SCOBYs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18054" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T19:09:58.237" Title="How SCOBY is grown?" Tags="|fermentation|kombucha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-07T17:03:08.907" Score="2" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing a schwarzbier using US-05 because I don't have a setup to brew a real lager. The OG was 1.047 and I have a current gravity reading of 1.012 after 5 days of decent fermentation at an ambient temp of 65 degrees with an expected FG of 1.008 or so. The beer tastes like I expected, smells fine, and is still bubbling in the airlock. My only concern is a weird string like structure I noticed in the fermenter today. I've been scouring the Internet looking for something that resembles it but I have thus far been out of luck. Does this look familiar to anyone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to the recipe I based this off of, in case that helps: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.atlanticbrewsupply.com/assets/images/PDF/ABS%20RBC%20The%20Royal%20Lager%20AG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.atlanticbrewsupply.com/assets/images/PDF/ABS%20RBC%20The%20Royal%20Lager%20AG.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dqlju.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dqlju.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FermenterPic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17610" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T17:03:08.907" Title="Strands Like Hair in Fermenting Beer" Tags="|fermentation|contamination|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24865" CreationDate="2020-04-07T19:09:58.237" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question kind of brings up some more fundamental questions about fermentation (like whether or not you could even call something kombucha if it's not made with a 'proper' SCOBY, given that a SCOBY could just be said to be &lt;em&gt;'some collection of microbes that, together, produces kombucha'&lt;/em&gt;). It's a bit of a chicken-and-egg situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most cultures (including SCOBYs, sourdough starters and &lt;em&gt;koji&lt;/em&gt; [the 'mouldy rice' you mention]) the real idea is to make a 'selective environment' (that is, an environment which encourages growth of &lt;em&gt;wanted&lt;/em&gt; microbes and hinders growth of other, unwanted ones). What makes it great is that these selective environments can also be tasty things to eat and drink (kombucha, bread, miso).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All cultures arise originally as random encounters of wild microbes with environments suitable for them to grown in. Imagine, a few cells of yeast floating on some dust, landing in an open bowl of grape juice... wine! People long ago discovered 'culturing,' that is, using that first, 'accidental' wine to start another wine fermentation with fresh grape juice (rather than just hoping for another chance encounter). This reuse, continued generation-after-generation, eventually leads to the selection of the best community of microbes for the job (people being more likely to reuse a culture from something they liked, rather than something they didn't). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sourdough and koji, the starters are easy to make &lt;em&gt;from scratch&lt;/em&gt; because there are well-known natural sources for, and fairly simple methods for growing, the appropriate microbes (the flour in sourdough comes from grains [wheat/rye/etc.] which already naturally host many of the right microbes on their surfaces; the proper molds for koji are known to grow on corn husks, and so these are sometimes used to inoculate rice). Knowing this, it's easy to start and perpetuate the proper selective environment for their growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kombucha SCOBYs are a special case: for one, the substrate for kombucha (tea, sugar, water) contains none of the appropriate microbes (unlike sourdough) for seeding the culture, meaning it is entirely reliant on the SCOBY for these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, they tend to include more microbial diversity, each species having its own particular nutritional and environmental requirements. For example, it's important that the SCOBY floats, since acetic acid bacteria require contact with oxygen. It's possible that the part of the SCOBY that is exposed to air has a different microbial make-up than the parts that are submerged. Also, there are complex interactions between the microbes and their byproducts (for example, in kombucha, the acetic acid bacteria need yeast to first convert sugars in the liquid to alcohol, which then can be oxidized to acetic acid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, the SCOBY is a solid mass that floats in the substrate, while the other cultures mentioned fully mix with or permeate their substrate. Because the microbes are basically fixed in place, the overall culture changes and adapts much more slowly. Only the microbes on the surface of the mass can really enter the liquid, where they can move and grow more freely. Whatever microbes are dispersed in the liquid (which of course came &lt;em&gt;from&lt;/em&gt; the surface layer) are those that then gets 'glued' to the outside of the growing SCOBY (by cellulose or similar stuff generated by the microbes), becoming the new surface layer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you can probably start to see that the dynamics of how a kombucha SCOBY adapts to its environment are different from many other cultures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The take-away, I suppose, is that it just takes much longer and is much more fussy to develop a SCOBY with the proper characteristics (i.e. that makes good kombucha) than you might expect it would be to make a healthy sourdough starter or koji culture. Of course it's &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; to develop from scratch (all of the required microbes are readily available to the motivated wild-fermentationist). I've heard of people using vinegar-mother (acetic acid bacteria culture) to start a new SCOBY, to which could easily be added cultures of wild yeast and other microbes (or just hope they happen to float in). Or you could take another fermenting culture (from sauerkraut or pickles, say, which are rich in yeast and lactic acid bacteria) and simply feed it on sugar and tea and treat it like kombucha during fermentation, hoping that any acetic acid bacteria thrive in a change of environment. Hypothetically this could eventually yield a recognizable SCOBY. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this really answers your question (it probably just brings up more), but I hope it at least helps to give an idea of how and why kombucha SCOBYs behave differently than other cultures and why it's probably been hard to find advice on starting one from scratch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T19:09:58.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24855" CreationDate="2020-04-07T20:55:26.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of questions here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Timed hop additions &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; make a difference in the expression of the hop flavours in the final product.  However if you're making a huge hoppy beer style, the subtlety of the in-between additions &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to find a recipe with roughly the same starting gravity as what you present above.  The one &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipe/green-flash-west-coast-ipa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;linked here&lt;/a&gt; is an American West Coast IPA recipe.  Note that it has multiple additions over time.  This recipe is for producing a 21 litre batch, so you could roughly halve it to get an idea of your hopping strategy.  Or you could just use brewing software (e.g.: like &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beersmith&lt;/a&gt;) which will calculate bitterness for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There can be no expectation of &quot;amounts&quot; per batch with this style of IPA, because late hops (say added at the 3rd day of fermentation) do not contribute much bitterness, so can be added in ridiculous amounts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; were making this beer, I would use the Azacca hops for bittering, leaving the Citra and Lemondrop as a dry-hop for 3 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugging some values into Beersmith, for an American IPA style, 60 IBUs of bitterness (the average for this style), at &lt;em&gt;roughly&lt;/em&gt; 1.070 &lt;em&gt;estimated&lt;/em&gt; final gravity, something like this might be OK:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Estimated OG: 1.063 SG     (Yes 1.063, it's due to equipment type, efficiency, etc.)&#xA;Estimated Color: 7.5 SRM&#xA;Estimated IBU: 55.1 IBUs&#xA;Boil Time: 60 Minutes&#xA;&#xA;Ingredients:&#xA;------------&#xA;Amt              Name                                             Type          #          %/IBU         Volume        &#xA;1.90 kg          Light Dry Extract [Boil] (8.0 SRM)               Dry Extract   1          100.0 %       1.23 L        &#xA;15.00 g          Azacca [15.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min                 Hop           2          55.1 IBUs     -             &#xA;20.00 g          Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days               Hop           3          0.0 IBUs      -             &#xA;20.00 g          Lemondrop [6.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days            Hop           4          0.0 IBUs      -    &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a lot of the extraction potential of the hops depends on your equipment and process.  You will probably need to start with a bigger pot, and extra water (for evaporation too).  Maybe add the hops in a hop-sock, cheese cloth, tea strainer, etc. so it's easier to get them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right so now we get onto the Yeast side of things.  This beer has a high original gravity.  Anything over 1.060 begins to stress the yeast.  The huge amounts of dissolved sugars put a high osmotic pressure on the cell walls and they don't do so well.  An easy solution is to add more yeast.  But how much?  At a guess 1 packet of US-05 in a 10 litre batch would possibly be enough.  But let's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; guess...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugging the values (11 litres, 1.070 gravity) into &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&lt;/a&gt; Says you need &lt;strong&gt;15 grams&lt;/strong&gt; of yeast, so about 1.5 packs.  If you do not use enough yeast, the yeast will have trouble fermenting all that sugar and will produce off flavours.  It's &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; important to use the correct amount.  Furthermore, many of the &quot;yeast flavours&quot; are created during the initial &quot;lag phase&quot; where yeast multiply to match the sugar-content.  If you pitch too little yeast they multiply much more than normal, creating extra yeast flavours (esters, etc.) &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; this is desirable, but generally not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;hot alcohol&quot; flavours you mention can also be a by-product of a poor fermentation.  Try to keep your fermentation cool, below 20C if you can, especially for the first 72 hours.  This (along with enough yeast) will reduce &quot;alcohol taste&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I answered a question on cooling ferments over on alcohol.stackexchange.com - &lt;a href=&quot;https://alcohol.stackexchange.com/a/4926/5160&quot;&gt;https://alcohol.stackexchange.com/a/4926/5160&lt;/a&gt;  Please see this for further ideas on keeping a ferment cool.  These two QnAs should really be merged.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2020-04-07T21:10:04.883" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T21:10:04.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-08T08:05:28.743" Score="2" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making my first batch of mead ima first time brewer and I forgot to take my first gravity reading what should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18063" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T09:03:49.843" Title="I forgot to take my first Gravity reading" Tags="|first-time-brewer|mead|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24870" CreationDate="2020-04-08T09:03:49.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't too much of a big deal. If you have the nutritional information from the honey you can calculate how much of it was pure sugar (mainly glucose in honey I believe). Then it is a simple case of using an online calculator to to calculate an estimated SG for your recipe. If precision means slightly less you could simply use the preloaded 'honey' option in many online recipe creators to calculate an estimated SG based on typical sugar volume (such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://brewgr.com/homebrew-recipe-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://brewgr.com/homebrew-recipe-calculator&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20L batch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5KG of honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nutritional info of the honey I have in my cupboard is 80.8 grams of sugar per 100g of honey. Thus 80.8*50 = 4,040g of sugar in 5KG of honey. Thus put 4.04kg of simple sugar or 5kg of honey into a calculator gives an estimated SG of between 1.073 and 1.077 depending on which you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending which one you go with it will of course slightly alter your abv calculations but I would argue it is better than not knowing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17426" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T09:03:49.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-10T03:44:12.453" Score="1" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 4-5 days ago I crushed up 2lbs of grapes and added a cup of sugar and a couple sliced oranges and lemons and a thick slice of bread to a glass jug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Covered the lid over the top with a towel and the lid on top and have been letting it sit now for around 5 days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I decided to taste it. It doesn’t taste half bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What’s the current alcohol content would you estimate given these conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m guessing around 5-6%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was definitely a bit of bubbling going on in there. Nothing too crazy but bubbling &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18068" LastEditorUserId="18068" LastEditDate="2020-04-10T04:02:15.027" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T20:04:00.357" Title="Alcohol Percentage Estimate" Tags="|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-11T23:01:35.633" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottle multiple batches every other weekend. I accidentally grabbed a wrong batch that was bottled with chico only a couple days before and put it into the fridge. I had not noticed until 2 weekes later. My question is - can I still pull this back out to finish carbing? or did I make an expensive bread starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18074" LastActivityDate="2020-04-12T18:07:34.427" Title="I accidentally put the wrong batch in the fridge" Tags="|beer|bottling|brewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-12T17:27:11.340" Score="4" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering who decided vodka should be 40% and why? (Have to include a little filler to make the question long enough to pass quality standards. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17992" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T16:38:33.650" Title="Why is vodka 40%?" Tags="|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24873" CreationDate="2020-04-12T18:07:34.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be fine, I would think, since it's the yeast that does the carbing in bottle conditioning. Yeast is stored in the fridge routinely before it's woken up, I just wouldn't want to give it any sudden temp changes. Might take a little longer to get it where you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I routinely experience continued fermentation in beers that I keg &amp;amp; put in the kegerator because I'm just too impatient, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's someone who had a similar question just to show I'm not completely FOS: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/refrigerated-too-early-fermentation-recoverable.60403/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/refrigerated-too-early-fermentation-recoverable.60403/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14451" LastActivityDate="2020-04-12T18:07:34.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-13T12:44:26.803" Score="2" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a sort out I've found a bag of brewing sugar that went out of date in August 2016! Curious, been stored in the dry, the bag s in tact and feels fine, I know very inexpensive to buy but waste not want not, thought about using it in a 1.8 kg can kit, would it be safe do you think or spoil the brew?&#xA;Thanks in advance .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18079" LastActivityDate="2020-04-18T15:03:33.327" Title="Would you use Brewing Sugar long past use by date? (3.5 years!)" Tags="|beer|sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-14T17:24:25.420" Score="2" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time making an apple cider. Which yeast products are the best to use for cider? Is there any other alternative to brewer's yeast? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18083" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-04-18T12:18:06.080" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T13:01:20.167" Title="Can lifestyle nutrition brewer's yeast be used for making apple cider" Tags="|yeast|cider|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24872" CreationDate="2020-04-14T18:53:22.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermetation usually starts after a few hours up to a full day after crushing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It takes in general about 2 weeks to fully ferment (depending on variables, temperature, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You added one cup of sugar in a total of?  1 gallon of liquid?  It will add a little % but not much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your guess of 5-6% is as good as any.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can grab an hydrometer to confirm that fermentation is completed.  Then, once you know the wine is dry, you can use a vinometer to mesure the alcohol content of your finished wine. Both these tools are cheap to purchase and will help you get a better idea of what you are making.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T18:53:22.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24877" CreationDate="2020-04-14T19:03:51.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;best brewer yeast to make cider&lt;/strong&gt; is a cider yeast.  Wyeast makes a few dry or liquid yeast for cider, which I tried and was satisfied with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatives are plenty, in fact any yeast can be used, but each will perform differently.  For your first cider batch, I would play safe and use a proper cider yeast (like Wyeast STRAIN: 4766 CIDER ™). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an article with alternatives:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/article/yeast-selection-for-cider/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/article/yeast-selection-for-cider/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T19:03:51.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24876" CreationDate="2020-04-14T19:07:30.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Robert mentionned, it is still sugar even after 5 years!  I usually disolve it in boiling water to kill any bacteria, before adding to a wort (after cooling a bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost no chances of spoiling the brew when added this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T19:07:30.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24874" CreationDate="2020-04-14T19:18:41.123" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems 40% is just the right mix.  Here is an article on the subject:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://archive.boston.com/business/technology/articles/2010/11/22/why_is_vodka_40_percent_alcohol/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://archive.boston.com/business/technology/articles/2010/11/22/why_is_vodka_40_percent_alcohol/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case the article is no longer available, here are the main points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mix 40 parts of alcohol and 60 parts of water, the alcohol acts as an antifreeze, allowing the mixture to stay liquid below zero. So you can leave vodka in a freezer and the bottle won’t burst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This 40/60 mixture has other fascinating properties. You can pour vodka into an open glass at room temperature and the alcohol and water will evaporate in such a way that it will leave the relative concentrations unchanged. If you come back later, you’ll still have vodka — just less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to check the alcohol content? At 40 percent or more alcohol, you can set fire to the fumes. Add a little water and you can’t anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you add alcohol to water to achieve that 40 percent balance, the mixture becomes more viscous, because there are enough alcohol molecules to start forming spaghetti-like chains. This contributes to the smoothness of vodka and its almost syrupy consistency when cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;by Northeastern University physicist John Swain&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T14:59:00.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24883" CreationDate="2020-04-15T07:59:03.837" Score="2" ViewCount="1497" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you use bentonite before fermentation, or must it be used after fermentation? This source says you can use it before pitching yeast. &lt;a href=&quot;https://winemakersacademy.com/bentonite-clarify-wine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://winemakersacademy.com/bentonite-clarify-wine/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some kit manufacturers (such as Winexpert) have you add bentonite in the very beginning of the wine making process, right before the yeast. That is so the bentonite will start clarifying the wine as it’s fermented. This is one of the only fining/clearing agents that can be added pre-fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sits on the bottom of the fermenter and as carbon dioxide bubbles form during fermentation the bentonite is carried up to the free surface. Along the way it collects positively charged particles. When the bubble reaches the surface and pops the bentonite falls back down to the bottom collecting more particles along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus your wine is clarifying during the entire fermentation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This source says it must be after. &lt;a href=&quot;https://eckraus.com/wine-making-bentonite/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://eckraus.com/wine-making-bentonite/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should also be noted here that the Bentonite should not be added to the wine until the fermentation is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17375" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T10:46:00.990" Title="Can you use bentonite before fermentation? Conflicting sources" Tags="|wine|mead|clarity|clarification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24882" CreationDate="2020-04-16T18:11:23.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes you can&lt;/strong&gt;, both can be done.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I usually follow instructions I am provided.  I have three books on the subject:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Encyclopedia of Home Winemaking&lt;/strong&gt; - mentions to add it before yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Techniques in Home Winemaking&lt;/strong&gt; - mentions for best results to add it before, but can also be used after first or second racking, before stabilization.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modern Winemaking&lt;/strong&gt; - mentions to use it after fermentation but also before in some cases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personnaly stopped using bentonite because I find it extracts too much color and flavour in red wines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T18:11:23.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-17T11:25:57.823" Score="3" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, I've decided to burn some time by trying out my first home brew. It has come with many challenges though. I do not have access to barley other than pearled barley, which I am not going to use, nor do I have access to hops. I have come up with some ingredients that I can use but I don't know what ratios I should be using and whether the ingredients will work or not. My ingredients list are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hops replacement:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Green Tea&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Orange Peel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coriander&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grains:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rye (Lightly malted at home)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rye (Green malt to ensure enzymes for breaking down carbs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheat (Lightly malted at home)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corn (Lightly malted at home)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Potential adjuncts:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eucalyptus honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squeezed Orange Juice (probably not going to use this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbonating sugar:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eucalyptus Honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard baker's yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like suggestions on ratios, anything I should add to my list, and anything that I should perhaps omit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone give me some advice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18087" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T04:32:27.270" Title="What ingredients should I use for a grocery home brew?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|wheat-beer|rye|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24884" CreationDate="2020-04-17T12:27:03.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's start with your hops replacements. Traditionally (before hops became common) all sorts of other herbs were used. These all had something in common: an intense bitter flavor. You need the bitterness to offset the otherwise cloying sweetness of the beer. While green tea, orange peel or coriander may work to flavor a beer (not sure I'd enjoy a coriander-flavored beer) you still need some bittering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tradional &quot;gruit&quot; botanicals used in ye olde beeres included Sweet Gale, Mugwort, Sage, Yarrow, Ivy, Horehound, Heather and a host of other weird and wonderful weeds, most of which have anti-bacterial properties and an intensely bitter taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your grains should work, provided you have enough enzymes in the mix to convert the starches into sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honey will improve your fermentability. Golden syrup also works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a fruit beer, you can try adding jam or marmalade to the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure about the baker's yeast. This will almost certainly not give you the right flavour profile and the alcohol tolerance may or may not be more than a percent or two, depending on what you've got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if this is all you have and you're looking for a way to kill time, then give it a go! Make sure to let us know what happens!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T12:27:03.427" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24876" CreationDate="2020-04-17T12:29:31.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used brewing sugar that was ten years old. Hard as a brick (due to being packaged in plastic that was sufficiently permeable to water vapour) but in the fermenter it dissolved quickly and the yeast climbed into it without any problem. So go for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T12:29:31.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24874" CreationDate="2020-04-17T12:37:34.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only vodka is 40% (or 43% in most countries) but many other distilled beverages are as well: whisky and brandy, for example are usually sold at 43%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the case for several reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, legislation. Allowable alcohol strengths and the resulting taxes they attract are all regulated. Whisky, for example, cannot be less than 40% ABV and still be legally sold as whisky in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, flavor. When you get over 43%, the alcohol strength begins to interfere with flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, effect. Beverages with 50% or more of alcohol can hit the drinker rather hard. Also, health consequences begin to play a role here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth: cost. If you make a beverage much stronger than it legally needs to be, you either drive up the product price (thus reducing sales volumes) or cut into your profit margin. The economy of volume plays a role here, especially for the large alcoholic beverage producers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, the reason why most cream liqueurs are sold at about 17% ABV is that with less alcohol the cream is susceptible to spoilage (the alcohol acts as a preservative) but at much higher strengths the alcohol tends to destabilize the suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T12:37:34.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24877" CreationDate="2020-04-18T11:22:03.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: NO. Forget it. Ain't never no gonna work. Not for cider, not for beer, not for nuffin'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Explanation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brewer's yeast sold as (part of any) nutritional supplement is usually spent yeast that has been sold off by one brewery or another to a food products manufacturer. It has been processed into a food supplement and as part of that process it has generally been heated to inactivate it. Translation: it's dead as a dodo. It won't have any viability left and can't be expected to ferment anything at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to use it as part of a yeast nutrient, though. Inactivated (read: dead) yeast makes up the bulk of various yeast nutrient blends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Philippe says, get a proper cider yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-04-18T11:22:03.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24877" CreationDate="2020-04-18T12:17:06.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone here claims that Saccharomyces boulardii makes a decent cider.  I haven't tried this myself and remain skeptical, but here is a link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/growing-saccharomyces-boulardii-from-a-capsule.590913/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/growing-saccharomyces-boulardii-from-a-capsule.590913/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite cider yeast is Red Star Cote des Blancs.  Outstanding every time I have used it.  And cheap, you can buy multiple packs on Amazon and they keep in the refrigerator for many years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-04-18T12:22:39.313" LastActivityDate="2020-04-18T12:22:39.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11019" CreationDate="2020-04-19T13:16:52.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;High methanol levels can actually be a problem in the freeze distillation (or more correctly, condensation) process. &#xA;The methanol is already present in the apples and increases during fermentation. To reduce the levels of methanol, you can boil the apple juice before starting the fermentation. This will reduce the initial level of methanol. Boil for about 20 minutes.&#xA;After fermentation, you could again, bring the cider to a temperature over the boiling point of methanol, but under the boiling point of ethanol. Somewhere between 148.5°F and&#xA;173.1°F. &#xA;The process of freeze distillation is actually easy. Once you have your apple cider, pout it into water bottles and freeze them completely in a freezer. This should take around 24 hours, up to two days if you have a strong cider. &#xA;Once frozen, take the bottles out of the freezer, turn them upside down and let them defrost slowly in the fridge. Collect the liquid flowing out of the bottles. After 1-2 hours, there should only be a white ice block left in the bottles - most water and you can discard it. Depending on how strong you want your applejack, you can repeat this process several times until it won't freeze anymore. At this point, you will have an applejack of around 35% ABV. This process also works to fortify wine and beer (and is safer since these beverages have low methanol levels)&#xA;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://boozemakers.com/freeze-distillation-make-liquor-without-still/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a detailed desription of the entire process here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18099" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T13:16:52.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-20T00:44:06.873" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm running a 5 cubic feet Magic Chef keezer with 2x6s for a collar so I can get an additional keg on the ledge. I cut the corners at 45 degrees and sealed off the collar with caulk, weather stripping, etc etc. I have two recirculation fans and a bag of Damp Rid and within 2 hours of starting it up there's condensation pooling in the bottom corner. I have the temp set to 37 degrees F. Any tips or anything I'm doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18017" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-04-20T17:58:46.430" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T01:37:01.527" Title="Cant get rid of condensation inside keezer" Tags="|keg|kegerator|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-21T17:06:27.540" Score="1" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know from previous questions that you can use both Bentonite followed by Sparkolloid in the same mead. Am I correct in thinking the best process would be add bentonite, give a week, RACK OFF THE SEDIMENT,then add Sparkolloid and give enough time to clear and then a final racking?  The key component I am asking is the racking between the two. I wanted to make sure that was correct thing to do. Thanks all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18112" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T18:08:00.820" Title="Bentonite AND Sparkolloid" Tags="|techniques|mead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-06-25T12:47:08.470" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24894" CreationDate="2020-04-22T01:37:01.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you use picnic taps? Every time the lid is opened, warm humid air is allowed to enter, cool, and result in condensation on surfaces. If this is the case, the standard mounted shank &amp;amp; faucet type taps should reduce the amount of times that the lid is opened and thus, reduce condensation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16487" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T01:37:01.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-22T15:52:49.127" Score="3" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a quick question on reusing yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am about to bottle a 40 pints of St-Peters cream stout this weekend I was going to save the yeast and use it again. I'm going to do a small 1 gallon batch of some dark beer very soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Question is how much of the liquid reused yeast do i put in to 1 gallon??&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it worth doing is the second question. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it take the same amount of time to ferment or is it faster as it is already liquid?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I said a question ended up being three .&#xA;Thanks &#xA;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17984" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-04-22T17:12:21.467" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T23:04:43.523" Title="Reusing yeast yes/no and how much?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24874" CreationDate="2020-04-22T16:38:33.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is very popular in Russia. The answer may be found in Russian wiki:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%92%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%BA%D0%B0#%D0%9F%D0%BE%D1%8F%D0%B2%D0%BB%D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%B5_40-%D0%B3%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%B4%D1%83%D1%81%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B9_%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%BA%D0%B8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Водка#Появление_40-градусной_водки&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Here is the translation of the main part&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Prior to the appearance of alcoholometers in Russia, the fortress of a water-alcohol mixture (“bread wine”) was measured by so-called annealing. If half of the wine was burned out of the wine, it was called &quot;polugar&quot;. &quot;Polugar&quot;, whose fortress was about 38%, served as the basic normative unit of vodka fortress, since 1817 - the recommended one, since 1843 - officially anchored. Subsequently, when the fortress began to be measured by alcohol meters, the Minister of Finance of the Russian Empire, M. H. Reitern, offered to round this number to forty. There were two reasons: the convenience of counting the volume of wine and incoming excise taxes, and a kind of stock &quot;for shrinkage and leakage&quot; so that the consumer in any case is guaranteed to receive the usual 38 &quot;polugar&quot; degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides in Russia there are a lot of myths about it, for example, that it was Mendeleev who discovered that 40 is the best ratio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18118" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T16:38:33.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24895" CreationDate="2020-04-22T17:22:40.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Racking after clarification is always recommended since adding a clarifying agent often requires mixing it, which would disturb the sediments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I would not rack when adding a second clarifying agent would be if they work together, like Chitosan and Kieselsol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T17:22:40.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24903" CreationDate="2020-04-22T21:23:03.167" Score="2" ViewCount="7627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made my 3rd, 4th and 5th Ginger Beer brews today!&#xA;The first one was a success, the second one I ruined it (used honey for fermenting and sweetening but didn't think it out properly) but now I have made a 3rd, 4th and 5th brew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, I have made about 2.8 liters twice and one brew with 25 liters!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, that's about 31 Liters of ginger beer. I have heard they can stay in the fridge for 3-4 weeks if bottled correctly. Is there any way to extend that duration? Can it be frozen?&#xA;And for the final question, can I remove the yeast in some way, before or after bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long is the duration that I can store it, without it going bad?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can it be extended? Eventually by freezing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you deal with the yeast? Do you let it be in the bottle? Shake before drinking?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18122" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2020-04-23T03:10:08.650" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T03:54:46.187" Title="Ginger Beer - How long can it be stored, can it be frozen and what do you do with the yeast?" Tags="|storage|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-22T22:08:26.293" Score="1" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine used plastic bottles with plastic caps (like coke bottles) for bottling. He used sugar (Granulated Sugar of Sugar Beet) for priming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turned out those plastic bottles have problems with caps and the bottles lost too much CO2. The bottles have very liitle to no carbonation right now. He wants to recover those bottles somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He does not have any equipment for CO2 flasks or tanks, so he will use sugar or malt for this purpose &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few questions over this issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it safe to transfer plastic bottles to bucket and refill glass bottles (which are suitable for standard single-use caps) or changing the container is not safe?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can he re-add priming sugar (the same granulated suger or dextrose or malt extract) to bottles? Will currently existing yeast within beer be enough for this or will he need to add more yeast prior to adding priming sugar?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other steps while doing above? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2403" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T03:25:46.693" Title="Re-Carbonating bottles in case bottles loose CO2" Tags="|carbonation|priming|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24901" CreationDate="2020-04-23T03:25:46.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should not be a problem using PET bottles for holding gas pressure.  These are commonly used for other carbonated beverages.  My local store sells new PET bottles for the express purpose of brewing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decanting the bottles back into a bucket (or suchlike) should be fine.  Just ensure sanitary conditions - of both the vessel being filled, and the new bottles.  You also want to minimise oxygen pickup - not sure this will be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IF&lt;/strong&gt; the previous priming sugar was consumed, it should be OK to re-prime.  There is likely enough yeast already (unless you removed it somehow), there will be extra yeast sediment later.  Please be careful that the previous priming sugar &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; used-up - otherwise you could be double-priming the bottles, potentially leading to a dangerous over-carbonation of the glass bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, we come to a question: &lt;strong&gt;Are you sure it was the bottles?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowledge of the full details ... I would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; re-prime the bottles.  The bottles could have little to no carbonation due to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast simply has not had enough time to work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ambient temperature was too cold, and the yeast slowed right down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The beverage in question has a high (&gt; 7%) alcohol content that is slowing/stalling priming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first 2 points are the likely culprits.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T03:25:46.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24900" CreationDate="2020-04-23T03:54:46.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you made a pseudo soft-drink Ginger Beer, where it's mostly a sweet beverage, and yeast is primarily used to bring carbonation (and only incidental alcohol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem you will have is &lt;strong&gt;over-carbonation&lt;/strong&gt;, the ginger beer will not &quot;go bad&quot;.  The yeast will continue consuming the sugar until none is left, or the amount of alcohol it produces is self-toxic.  Bread making yeast will typically get to about 14% AbV before this happens, wild yeast (like from a &quot;ginger bug&quot;) &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; somewhat less, and Champagne yeast ~ 19%.  If you dislike alcohol, and a less-sweet flavour, then sure, it's &quot;bad&quot;.  But during fermentation the yeast is creating alcohol, lowering the pH, and removing oxygen.  This makes a fermented beverage fairly inhospitable to other micro-organisms.  It will keep well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big issue is whether the vessel the ginger beer is sealed in can take the excess carbon dioxide pressure.  If the bottles are glass, then this is a dangerous situation.  You can mitigate this by periodically venting the excess gas  from the bottles.  But if the bottles are already gushing out, then it's a problem &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; - if your bottles are glass be really, &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; careful (at least wear eye protection).  With &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_terephthalate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PET&lt;/a&gt; bottles, the risk of flying bottle-shards is mitigated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast will not stop in the refrigerator, just slow down a little.  Freezing? Freezing should stop fermentation, but it will not kill the yeast.  You could try bottle pasteurisation and perhaps preservatives (like potassium sorbate, etc.) to stop fermentation - use techniques as if you were &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/article/yeast-selection-for-cider/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;making apple cider&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like the taste of the yeast, it's no problem to mix it up into the beverage.  But for a clearer product, all you can do is cool it down, and wait for the yeast to settle out - then pour carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T03:54:46.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24897" CreationDate="2020-04-23T04:15:29.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The generally specified amount is about 1/3 of a cup of yeast slurry into a 20 litre/5 gallon batch - so maybe 25ml, more?.  This is all very rough, because you can never be sure of the concentration or viability of the yeast without putting it under a microscope.  It's difficult to pitch too much yeast at the home brew level though, so I'd err on the side of more yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a &quot;St-Peters cream&quot; stout is a high-alcohol and therefore hard-work environment for the yeast, it may not be very healthy after fermentation.  So if you just fermented a super-double-mega-imperial-table-beer, then maybe don't re-use the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you can maintain a sanitary environment, there's no reason not to re-pitch healthy yeast.  If your cream stout tastes weird at all, I would certainly &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; re-use the yeast then.  Taste the beer before pitching its yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the &quot;amount of time&quot; you are referring to, is the post-pitch &quot;lag phase&quot; where the yeast is initially multiplying (and creating the bulk of the esters/flavours), before fermentation becomes noticeably vigorous.  Pitching a good amount of healthy yeast will reduce this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T04:15:29.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24884" CreationDate="2020-04-23T04:32:27.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get some honey, maybe some fruit, bakers' yeast and make a mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factory produced bread yeast &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; has an alcohol tolerance of around 14% AbV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.growforagecookferment.com/mead-recipes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.growforagecookferment.com/mead-recipes/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably also buy malt extract (cooking grade) in the baking section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T04:32:27.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-23T17:33:50.927" Score="2" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tried to make wine for the first time. Manderin oranges, sugar, water, yeast,  tea for tannin the whole kit and kaboodle! In a rush, I forgot to add the Campden tablet prior to doing all this and just added it after mixing all my other ingredients together. Did I just mess up my whole batch of wine, or Will this ferment? And please be clear. Do I add the tablet before or after the wine is finished? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18130" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2020-04-26T22:50:11.980" LastActivityDate="2020-04-26T22:58:15.350" Title="First batch of wine, forgot the Campden - did I just mess up the whole thing?" Tags="|wine|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24897" CreationDate="2020-04-23T23:04:43.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago I got a growler (1/2 gallon?) of yeast from a local craft brewery when their fermentation was done. I pitched it in my 5 gal carboy and the beer came out great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12067" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T23:04:43.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9315" CreationDate="2020-04-24T09:41:47.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion the ideal target for Mash pH (as measured at room temperature) is 5.6 (because peer reviewed literature from brewing masters such as Briggs and several others of his era indicates that they targeted an ideal of 5.4 Mash pH as measured at mash temperature), and the ideal Wort pH to target via acidification adjustment post mashing and just pre-boil (also as measured at room temperature) is 5.2, (with the range here being 5.0 to 5.2).  At 5.0 boil pH hop utilization is diminished and hop presence is somewhat muted vs. 5.2.  Higher than 5.2 at this juncture and you risk the potential of the yeast not bringing the final (un-carbonated) beer pH into the ideal range of 3.9-4.0 to 4.3-4.4, above which juncture the beer is subject to downstream bacterial contamination.  Also, higher than 5.2 pH at this juncture and your beer will darken unnecessarily due to Maillard reactions occurring during the boil.  5.0 to 5.2 pH during the boil suppresses these color raising reactions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18014" LastEditorUserId="18014" LastEditDate="2020-04-24T14:34:28.633" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T14:34:28.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24917" CreationDate="2020-04-25T14:02:02.040" Score="0" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started gathering equipment for home water carbonation and collected my CO2 tank today to find the regulator I purchased does not fit it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am based in Ireland, here is the regulator I purchased: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.schankanlagen-koch.de/AfG-Hauptdruckminderer-CO2-Druckminderer-Hauptdruckregler-HIWI-Euskirchen-3-bar-1499.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.schankanlagen-koch.de/AfG-Hauptdruckminderer-CO2-Druckminderer-Hauptdruckregler-HIWI-Euskirchen-3-bar-1499.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B6ut0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B6ut0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hiwi Euskirchen CO2 Regulator&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is the gas tank:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LghXl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LghXl.png&quot; alt=&quot;CO2 Gas tank&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the fittings are completely different, the tank has a female connection while the regulator expects a male. The regulator is for CO2 and the tank is pure CO2 not a mixture or other gas...what have I done wrong? Can I get an adaptor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18139" LastEditorUserId="18139" LastEditDate="2020-04-25T14:38:25.797" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T13:23:59.677" Title="Regulator not fitting CO2 tank" Tags="|carbonation|equipment|co2|gas|help|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24906" CreationDate="2020-04-26T22:58:15.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Campden tablet is used to remove wild yeast from the wine &quot;must&quot; (juice), so the only yeast fermenting the beverage is the one you add.   If you add it after the yeast it will kill or severely inhibit all the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely that the introduced yeast will out-compete any wild yeasts in/on the Mandarin Orange juice.  If not, it should still be OK.  You might just get some extra subtle flavour differences.  If you made a ginger-beer via a ginger &quot;beer plant&quot; or &quot;bug&quot;, these are exactly the wild yeasts you're fermenting with, so I don't think it's a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally the Campden tablet is introduced 24 hours &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-04-26T22:58:15.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-27T12:33:28.810" Score="2" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am home brewing for the first time ever. I had the following queries pls. Hope someone will answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I mixed 200 grams of white sugar, 100 grams of ginger, 2 complete lemons, mint leaves and 1 teaspoon baker’s yeast in 1.5 liters of water. I had boiled the mixture (except for the yeast – which I added later). The brew is bubbling aggressively. Since this is the first time I am brewing, I did not go for a hydrometer. Can anyone tell me how long will it take to complete fermentation? And how will I come to know of it – any tell-tale symbols that the brewing process is over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After I started the brew, someone told me that the flavors are to be added during secondary fermentation (after racking). Is it true? Will I not get the gingerly, minty flavors from the brew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am using a 2 liter Pepsi bottle as a brewing vessel (with an airlock on the top). Is it OK to use a plastic bottle for brewing? I took this bottle as it is used to store and transport consumable drinks and can withstand pressure. I am asking this question as everyone on YouTube seems to be using glass vessels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to find out if any unwanted liquids have brewed up in the final beer/wine? (Like vinegar and other alcohols). How do I know that the brew is safe to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I look forward to answers of my queries. Any pointers / tips will be thankfully acknowledged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks and Regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arvind Gupta&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18148" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2021-09-21T22:15:37.717" Title="Home brewing for the first time ever" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|brewing|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-27T14:47:43.480" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed an Imperial Stout and was aiming 1.099, but got 1.090 OG (By adding 1 pound of DME)&#xA;After 13 days, my FG was 1.022 which was exactly my target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 months later, I took a reading and got 1.012.&#xA;I tasted it, it's hard to tell if there's an off flavour. Beer is an intense 10.5% ABV having bourbon and wood in it. It's really good, but I don't know if I'm looking too hard to detect something different, after several sip I got a weird feeling that lasted quite a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might it be contaminated? Dangerous to drink? How to know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16606" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T16:26:34.910" LastActivityDate="2020-05-28T17:06:55.660" Title="FG is 10 points under expected. Contamination?" Tags="|fermentation|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24916" CreationDate="2020-04-27T16:15:13.673" Score="3" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 3 days into fermenting my IPA in a Fermentasaurus under pressure (if it makes a difference) and I've just taken a hydrometer reading, all better than expected. The beer looks beautiful and hazy, smells great and tastes mostly delicious already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there's a sharp, bitter afterflavor on it. Is this normal while it's fermenting for another few weeks, does that mellow out after a while?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I'm asking is because I am ready to start dry hopping but I don't want to over-hop this beer if it's going to keep it's sharp hop burn already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Malts (5.7 kg)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 kg (74.1%) — Pale Ale — Grain — 6.5 EBC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;700 g (10.4%) — Thomas Fawcett Pale Malt, Maris Otter — Grain — 5.9 EBC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other (1.05 kg)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;700 g (10.4%) — Flaked Oats — Adjunct — 4.3 EBC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;350 g (5.2%) — Brown Sugar, Light — Sugar — 15.8 EBC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops (335 g)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15 g (25 IBU) — Columbus 15% — Boil — 75 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 g (25 IBU) — Citra 11% — Boil — 10 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 g (12 IBU) — Columbus 15% — Boil — 10 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 g — Citra 11% — Boil — 0 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40 g — Centennial 10% — Boil — 0 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 g — Columbus 15% — Boil — 0 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 g — Citra 11% — Dry Hop — 3 days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40 g — Centennial 10% — Dry Hop — 3 days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 g — Columbus 15% — Dry Hop — 3 days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 pkg — White Labs WLP007 Dry English Ale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18150" LastEditorUserId="18150" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T13:53:27.447" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T13:53:27.447" Title="Three days into fermenting beer and getting really sharp, bitter flavors, will that mellow out?" Tags="|fermentation|dry-hop|bitterness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24912" CreationDate="2020-04-27T20:20:26.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's kind of hard to figure what you're trying to do.. What are you &amp;quot;brewing&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using a hydrometer, you would know it's finished when you take several reading and density is stable. Without a hydrometer I would check how much CO2 is produced. You mentioned an airlock, is it bubbling? Also, it might depend on the type of yeast and how much you used. White sugar is a &amp;quot;complex&amp;quot; sugar and it's hard to know how the yeast will work with it. If you were producing a beer, I would suggest two weeks of fermentation to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people will discourage you to use more than 1 vessel for fermentation. It has been tested that it doesn't provide anything and increase the risk of contamination. That being said, secondary fermentation refers to the phase where yeast has done much of their work. It's usually the phase where it refine and clean some by-products. People add things during second fermentation because there's less CO2 produced so more aroma is kept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plastic is fine as long as you use proper sanitation. Never used a plastic that is cheap. I would check if it's BPA free, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're using proper sanitation, then you should be OK. Fermentation isn't distillation so there's no concept of producing &amp;quot;wrong&amp;quot; alcohol. Worst that could happen is contamination. You should be able to see, smell or taste it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16606" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2021-09-21T22:15:37.717" LastActivityDate="2021-09-21T22:15:37.717" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24914" CreationDate="2020-04-28T12:00:09.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's still fermenting, you're likely just experiencing the hops still in suspension.  After fermentation is complete, a LOT of this material and the associated bitterness will drop out of suspension.  In other words, it is very normal for a beer, of ANY style, to taste very bitter after just 3 days of fermentation, then to have it all mellow out after the fermentation is complete, and especially later after a couple weeks of conditioning in the bottle or keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I don't think you'll need to add any more hops, as the existing hop charges are pretty high already.  I might suggest splitting the batch if possible, adding more dry hops to part of the batch but not the other, then after the beer is finished and carbonated, see if you can taste the difference.  I'm not sure I could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T12:00:09.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24910" CreationDate="2020-04-28T13:23:59.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some companies use mixed gas hardware for CO2 gas, this is a mixed gas (argon/CO2) fitting and needs a different connection to a standard CO2 fitting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adapters are available and the gas company should be able to advise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18139" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T13:23:59.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24913" CreationDate="2020-04-28T16:38:20.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suppose that with a target FG of 1.022 from 1.099, you would already have a bit lower FG. If I calculate this, however, from 1.099 to 1.022 is an attenuation of 77%. Using this from an OG of 1.090 leads to a FG of 1.020.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be another factor playing in this. I noticed with stouts with much roast malts that the yeast does not perform as well, and consequently I had gushers in some of them, but they were still very nice of taste and drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that a real contamination would have brought your final gravity much lower than 1.012 in five months, and that real off-tastes and smell would stand out. Measure your gravity certainly a month further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the weak feeling, can you describe it further? Dizziness? Something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T16:38:20.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-30T04:10:57.333" Score="3" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently doing a batch of beer and for some reason the temp of the beer after I put it in the primary fermentation bucket wasn't low enough to pinch the yeast right away. I left the top off of the bucket a little bit to try and cool it faster but it was &quot;exposed&quot; for probably about an hour at least. My question is will this mess up the beer? or should it be ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18169" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-04-30T10:58:19.070" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T15:47:42.270" Title="How long can beer be exposed in a primary fermentation bucket?" Tags="|yeast|beer|wort|wort-chiller|pitch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24920" CreationDate="2020-04-30T10:57:01.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely it will turn out just fine, but you did add risk of infection keeping the lid off for a while.  In future you should keep the lid on it, just to keep any wild organisms from flying into the beer and causing infection.  I myself will often brew in the evening then let the beer cool overnight, with the LID ON, then pitch the yeast the next morning, with very good results and no infections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T10:57:01.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24925" CreationDate="2020-04-30T14:33:30.447" Score="0" ViewCount="834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently fermenting an IPA at room temperature in a Fermentasaurus. It has built up a nice bit of pressure which is carbonating my beer, GREAT! Nature: awesome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I've been looking at better ways of bottling my beer. Normally I would add priming sugar and bottle condition it. However, I already have perfectly carbonated beer now, what a waste to start over!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kegging is not within my budget at the moment, so that's out of the question for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I stumbled upon the Blichmann Beer Gun which looked like it might just do the trick. However, I can't seem to find anyone who has experience directly bottling from the Fermentasaurus / Fermzilla using a beer gun. Several shops sell the fermenter as a full kit including the beer gun so they must think it might work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During my research I keep reading that the beer and bottles need to be of the same temperature.. which is great, but everybody has everything chilled in fridges. Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of throwing a complete Fermentasaurus in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would it make sense at all to take the beer that's at room temperature and fill my bottles (I can chill those, as suggested) with a beer gun or will that be a total waste? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It sounds like the high temperature will produce too much foam. Is that a real concern?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any other negatives to trying to use a beer gun on beer that is this warm and is not coming from a keg?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has anybody ever tried to bottle directly from the Fermentasaurus / Fermzilla using a beer gun?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other option is a Counterpressure Bottle Filler, but I expect the temperature to be a problem here as well, but is it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18150" LastEditorUserId="18150" LastEditDate="2020-04-30T15:21:49.857" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T00:12:22.730" Title="Can I bottle room temperature beer with a beer gun from a pressurized Fermentasaurus or Fermzilla?" Tags="|beer|bottling|temperature|fermenter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-30T17:26:51.930" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at doing some all grain BIAB small batch brews ie 1 gallon.&#xA;I was wondering if there was any place i could get some good recipes from?&#xA;Websites,PDF,any ones blog pages,&#xA;Thanks so much.&#xA;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17984" LastActivityDate="2020-05-30T22:02:00.217" Title="All Grain 1 gallon BIAB recipes" Tags="|biab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24923" CreationDate="2020-04-30T21:23:20.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One Gallon recipes are hard to find. Most people scale up or scale down an existing recipe using a homebrew calculator. I personally use Beersmith but you can find several online BIAB calculators for free. &lt;a href=&quot;https://biabcalculator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://biabcalculator.com/&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://simplebiabcalculator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://simplebiabcalculator.com/&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://biabbrewing.com/brew-day-prep/biab-calculators-and-software/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://biabbrewing.com/brew-day-prep/biab-calculators-and-software/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T21:23:20.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24922" CreationDate="2020-05-01T00:12:22.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If beer is &quot;perfectly carbonated beer&quot;, then transferring it isn't a problem. What happen with &quot;warm&quot; beer is that it doesn't retain/absorb gas as a cold liquid. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting a keg at room temperature and purge it few time will lower the CO2 volume in liquid. Using it cold with pressure will add CO2 volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can pour a glass of well carbonated beer, then you can bottle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using cold bottles helps to create less foam will using your beergun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16606" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T00:12:22.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-01T12:34:18.460" Score="2" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am taking the opportunity to use the current situation to get brewing again. I'm only using kits at the moment, but plan to move to next stages soon. I currently have a Festival kit of Old Suffolk ale in primary and will be bottling early next week. I'd like to remove as much of the trub from the bottles as possible, and will probably use finings in the secondary before adding the priming sugar and bottling.  My question is two fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, if the finings work, won't I be left with some new trub in the bottom of the second bin, which will get mixed in when adding the sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, if I get around that, will there be enough 'good' yeast in the beer to execute a successful second fermentation (this question was asked, but in a filtering context, not finings)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18177" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-06-25T17:51:38.023" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T17:51:38.023" Title="Clearing using finings during racking prior to bottling - will there still be enough yeast for second fermentation?" Tags="|secondary|kits|trub|finings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-01T20:37:18.397" Score="2" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making my first pressurized brew using a fermentasaurus . All has been well for the first couple of days, but unfortunately one of my children had a &quot;what does this do?&quot; moment and opened up the spunding valve and let all the pressure out ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to increase the pressure ? I've tried googling but the only thing I can come up with is &quot;charging&quot; in order to bottle or transfer to a keg. I'm thinking that this would be the solution (just don't have a beer line attached)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if this is the way - I presume that the best way would be to remove the spunding valve, charge the fermenter to a certain psi/bar and then put the valve back on. I would also like to know how you guys charge - would a sodastream type gas canister be ok ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18179" LastActivityDate="2020-10-03T07:04:55.460" Title="increase pressure in fermentasaurus" Tags="|fermentation|co2|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-02T11:09:12.673" Score="3" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing ginger beer for the first time ever. In fact this is the first time I am brewing ever. I used 200 grams of sugar, 100 grams of yeast, a few mint leaves, and a whole lemon (sliced) in 1.5 liters of water and boiled the mixture. Then cooled it and added 1 teaspoon of baker’s yeast, squeezed one lemon in it and put it in an airtight bottle with an airlock. I cleaned all article with hot water prior to use. 7 days down the line, I opened the bottle and found that the brew to be sour in taste (it does smell of alcohol). Is it possible that there is vinegar in the brew? Is there any test to find out if there is vinegar in the brew pls.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking forward to your advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks and Regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arvind Gupta &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18148" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T06:50:18.710" Title="How to find out if there is vinegar in a beer brew" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|ginger-beer|vinegar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24929" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-02T12:42:30.387" Score="2" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to lockdown ,I am unable to get hold of any brewers yeast. And since this is my first attempt at brewing beer,I wanted to know if I can get anything remotely drinkable with bakers yeast. Taste is not the absolute priority right now as long as the drink is not dangerous for me in someway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to make the wort from whole grain and then pitch bakers yeast but I’ve read that the strain in bakers yeast die at 3% alcohol. So would the beer have 3% alcohol after 2 weeks ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18180" LastActivityDate="2020-06-04T14:01:05.193" Title="Home brewing first time with bakers yeasts" Tags="|yeast|beer|bread|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24926" CreationDate="2020-05-02T13:11:26.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and yes.  Finings will generate trub, and you might want to rack the beer off it before packaging.  Finings also do not remove much if any of the yeast so priming will not be a problem at all whatsoever.  I've been bottling and using finings for many years and never had any problems with carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T13:11:26.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24929" CreationDate="2020-05-02T13:14:40.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use bread yeast to make beer, you will still get beer, but I would expect it to taste like bread.  I have done this a couple of times and the results are indeed bready.  But you might find something you can enjoy.  I did drink it all, so it wasn't horrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure of the 3% for it to quit fermenting.  Actually I do not believe this is true.  But I am sure it depends which brand you use.  I don't know if there are good sources out there telling you which brand does what.  So it's anybody's guess, and worth experimenting with different brands if you are interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!  Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T13:14:40.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-02T14:49:22.293" Score="0" ViewCount="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &quot;brewery in a bag kit&quot; that has a pressure release valve but I don't understand where this goes on the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18181" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T14:49:22.293" Title="Muttons Brewery in a bag kit - what to do with pressure release valve?" Tags="|kits|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-22T11:39:10.013" Score="1" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I didn't follow a recipe as such for my Ginger beer but here is what I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Champagne Yeast, grated ginger, honey and water fed every day for about 1 week (created GBP)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Topped up to 2L with water and added lemon juice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fed for another week or so&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everywhere I have seen says that you should strain and bottle it when it's just a little sweeter than you would like it but the problem is that it's not any sweeter after each 24H period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried feeding with more honey every day - I'm doing a tablespoon instead of a teaspoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's fizzy despite being in a loose lid kilner jar and smells amazing - doesn't taste particularly alcoholic but I don't really mind that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fed it for another week but it didn't get sweeter and stopped fizzing so have strained - added loads of sugar and bottled. Would still love any insight on what I did wrong! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18197" OwnerDisplayName="Bee" LastEditorUserId="18197" LastEditDate="2020-05-07T13:33:42.460" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T14:50:45.797" Title="Why is my ginger beer not sweet yet?" Tags="|fermentation|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-28T08:57:45.953" Score="3" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title summarizes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've search the google about someone trying to cultivate a wine yeast they bought but I can't seem to find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to wine making and I don't have really a lot of money to buy more of yeast, so I've think, &quot;Why try to cultivate a single sachet of yeast?&quot;. It would really help my wallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also that assumption that the yeast would mutate and change it's behaviour I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have someone tried it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="harieamjari" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2021-04-29T11:46:57.277" LastActivityDate="2021-05-29T18:02:35.217" Title="Is it okay to cultivate wine yeast bought from store to save money than repeatedly buying it?" Tags="|yeast|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24934" CreationDate="2020-05-01T16:43:24.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but for a single person it tends to not be practical over the long-term.  Many homebrew clubs actually do this to create their own yeast bank for members to have ready access to rare or specific yeast strains but it takes discipline, prep, and equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To have any success in the long run you need to be careful about how you do it and follow certain procedures to maintain the purity of the culture so you might need some special equipment.  But it will allow you to grow and maintain a house culture of yeast almost indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option to stretch store-bought yeast much further but not to the level of a yeast bank is just to &amp;quot;wash&amp;quot; yeast between batches.  That's simply a process of taking the slurry that you'll find on the bottom of your brewing vessel after racking off the primary fermentation, diluting it with distilled water in a beaker or jar, allowing it to settle for some time, and pouring off the dross on the top layer.  What you're left with after washing yeast is a relatively active and pure culture that you can regrow a portion of into a starter or just repitch more must onto.  The downside to yeast washing is eventually the culture becomes unusable because of yeast stress or other contamination, but you should be able to get 5-6 batches out of one store-bought yeast package which isn't anything to scoff at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3597" OwnerDisplayName="Sloloem" LastEditorUserId="3597" LastEditDate="2021-04-29T17:06:40.100" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T17:06:40.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24942" CreationDate="2020-05-05T11:31:18.830" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m experimenting with mango wine and produced different batches using fresh local mangoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My latest batch has little or no smell to it. It basically smells like alcohol and the bouquet is otherwise weak with faint fruit aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12L of fresh mango pulp (Mamuang Kaew cultivar)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6L of fresh water (reverse osmosis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1800g of white sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 tsp bentonite&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 tsp pectine enzyme&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 tsp campden. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Initial ABV 1.080. Fermentation in controlled environment between 20° and 22° Celsius. Rack after 1 month, rack after another month, clear last cloud with 2 tsp of bentonite. Final ABV 0.990 Wine now 4 months old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to increase bouquet in my next attempt? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3813" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-05-06T20:08:43.893" LastActivityDate="2020-10-03T22:01:15.163" Title="Wine has no or little smell to it" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24929" CreationDate="2020-05-05T14:00:19.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can absolutely use bakers yeast for beer brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Finland bakers yeast is a must for brewing historical &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sahti&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sahti&lt;/a&gt; beer.&#xA;I have experimented a few batches with bakers yeast, both dry and fresh and it seems to have relatively high alcohol tolerance with lots of banana like aroma. Apparent attenuation were quite high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to use actual yeast, as I have noticed some baking powder is labeled as &quot;instant yeast&quot; etc. those products won't contain actual yeast, so they won't work with brewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16356" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T14:00:19.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-05T19:35:10.940" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been a wine maker and grower for 10+ years and now diving into home beer making which is a lot of fun and gives MUCH faster returns on enjoyment.  I have seen where some folks recommend filling the head space in the conditioning carboy (secondary) with CO2.  In wine making argon is preferred (and I have it).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any comments about using this to spurge air out of the secondary?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have a wine lab/cellar that I keep around 64°F (17°C).  Is that a good environment for conditioning or too cold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&#xA;Ric&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18193" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-05-06T20:25:56.977" LastActivityDate="2020-10-03T22:01:15.163" Title="Argon in head space and storage temp" Tags="|storage|cold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24928" CreationDate="2020-05-06T06:50:18.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vinegar has a fairly distinctive flavour.  If you can't taste it, I would say no.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During fermentation, the yeast rapidly uses-up all the dissolved oxygen in the vessel.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetobacter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Acetobacter&lt;/a&gt; needs oxygen to turn ethanol into vinegar.  So as long as your air lock was in-place, the fermentation will maintain a positive pressure of carbon dioxide. So there should be no dissolved oxygen, and thus no acetobacter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you be tasting the lemon? Some aspect of the mint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be another souring bacteria, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactobacillus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lactobacillus&lt;/a&gt;.  But with good sanitation this should not be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while I've never used yeast as it's own nutrient, 100 grams seems like a huge amount.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T06:50:18.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24927" CreationDate="2020-05-06T07:00:51.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could simply add some pressure from a CO2 cylinder - as if doing a pressure transfer.  Maybe take some gas from inside an emptied keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really - I would not worry about it.  If the ferment is still in the early vigorous stages, it will re-pressure the vessel.  Even in the latter stages, carbon dioxide is still being created, and it will &lt;em&gt;somewhat&lt;/em&gt; contribute to more pressure.  Yes your beverage will not come-out pre-carbonated, but only &quot;excess&quot; pressure has been released, so there's no worry about oxygen pickup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this all the time: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Think &quot;Oooh that pressure is a little high&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the spunding valve the tiniest most inconsequential amount.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next day, pressure is back to ambient. Grr! &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course warming the ferment up will increase the pressure too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T07:00:51.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24936" CreationDate="2020-05-06T20:22:27.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since your primary fruit lacks flavor to begin with, you will need to add something else to compensate.  Bouquet is very subjective, but still I will try to help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Adding Tannin and using an Acid Blend will give it a little kick. Take a look at this recipe: &lt;a href=&quot;https://practicalselfreliance.com/mango-wine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://practicalselfreliance.com/mango-wine/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- There is also the choice of the yeast that can change the final result as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- Not sure if adding hops would fit, but some people add hops to cider, then again, there are so many different hops that have their own flavour, but I would probabaly try one that that has Citrus flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4- You may try to mix another fruit to add complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is all I can think of, for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T20:22:27.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24939" CreationDate="2020-05-06T20:53:19.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you have Argon, you can used it, however I do not think it is necessary&lt;/strong&gt;, unless you have a lot of free space, like a half full carboy.  Good, sanitation is much more important than air exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mainly, because beer will not age as long as wine in a carboy, the process being shorter.&#xA;I find beer much more resistent to air exposure compared to wine (my opinion).&#xA;I made over 35 batches so far (4-5 gallons each) and I never spoiled a batch due to air exposition (fingers crossed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the temperature, to &lt;strong&gt;bottle condition&lt;/strong&gt; (bottle fermentation), it will depend on your yeast, the colder the longer it will take to carbonate, but it should work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;storage afterwards&lt;/strong&gt;, it's ok to store for less than 6 months in bottles at that temperature (depends on the type of beer as well).  The hotter, the faster your beer will age.  For instance, your beer might be perfect after 2 months at that temperature or exactly the same after 4 months in a fridge.  So to age beer for a longer period of time, you should find colder place.  Usually the malt flavour dissappears first, then hops right after, until eventually it will become too bland to enjoy.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T20:53:19.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24976" CreationDate="2020-05-07T16:25:13.993" Score="3" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;Newbie here ... first post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Newbie brewer ... first attempt at Pineapple Beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm posting my narrative, with a few questions at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to tell me where I could improve or change, or any words of warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comments and advice most actively welcomed !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm living in Cape Town, South Africa&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Currently under Covid-19 lockdown conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Week #5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sale of alcohol has been prohibited&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Necessity being the mother of invention ... and all that.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Starting Point&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am loosely following this Instructable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Lets-Make-Some-Pineapple-Beer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instructables.com/id/Lets-Make-Some-Pineapple-Beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with some personal experience from a couple of my mates who are onto their 3rd or 4th batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Recipe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ingredients:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Large Pineapples&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 Naartjies (that's our local variant of a tangerine/mandarin)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 kg brown sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 teaspoon cinnamon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 sachet instant yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pineapples&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut off the crown&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cubed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Naartjies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;peeled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cubed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Blended the fruit cubes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;including the skin from 1 naartjie&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;used a hand electric 'zoomer'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;into a chunky swill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Added&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 kg brown sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 teaspoon cinnamon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7.5 litres boiling water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stirred and mixed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;total volume around 10 litres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Poured into a 25 litre food quality plastic water holder&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cooled to around 26-28°C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then added my yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lid placed on top to close&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;but not screwed down the thread&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wrapped in a sleeping bag for insulation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;days here range from 20-25°&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nights drop down to around 15°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was yesterday - so that is the point where I am currently at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fermentation Stage #1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(a) Can I keep the lid screwed on my 25 litre ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume I can leave the lid on, but burp every morning and evening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have around 1/3 liquid &amp;amp; 2/3 gas space, so there is room for some pressure build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I rather leave it loose ... during Fermentation Stage 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(b) How will I know if the yeast is happy and doing its thing ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than a warm sweet naartjie pineapple smell infusing and permeating the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the pressure build up ? (Assuming lid closed and burping as above.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(c) How do I know when to start Fermentation Stage #2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to tell if the sugar is all nicely converted ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I just stick to the recipe recommended 7 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fermentation Stage #2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strain off the chunks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottle into plastic bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lid screwed on - but burp frequently&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leave to ferment to produce bubbles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a recommended number of days here ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, should I go with the recipe 2 days guideline - or - is there any 'test' I can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fridge Life : Best Before&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I chill the carbonated bottles in my fridge, how long can I keep them (safely) for ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How will I tell when it is no longer good to drink ... or good for me to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am realising now that my pineapple beer will most probably have a limited life span.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that I will be solo drinking - I need to plough my way through 8 litres before it gets unhealthy or rank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strength and Potency&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have provided enough information, would anyone care to make an educated guess as to my range of possible alcohol levels ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And apologies for the long winded story !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&#xA;Rich&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18192" LastEditorUserId="18192" LastEditDate="2020-05-07T18:48:58.413" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T14:36:32.700" Title="Lockdown Pineapple Beer : A few newbie questions and requests for any advice or comments" Tags="|beer|fruit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24944" CreationDate="2020-05-07T18:34:48.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not close the lid of your fermenter. The first 3 to 4 days is when the most yeast action happens  and a lot of gas is let out. So keep the lid slightly loose, it will be fine. What I do is close it tight and then give it a slight turn loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just leave it in the fermenter for the 7 days before you bottle it. Make sure everything is super sterile. I'm not sure how long it will last in bottles for. This weekend I will try out my 2 week old pine beer and let you know how it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strength is very low. Maybe 3% max if you're using normal instant yeast. It might be stronger if it gets to age a bit more in the bottles, I'll know this weekend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18165" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T18:34:48.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-07T23:02:12.617" Score="3" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just moved my wine from the primary fermentation bucket to a carboy with an auto siphon. I had some trouble with the auto siphon. It worked fine when I tested it out with water. But when I used it with the wine it kept needing to be re-pumped to keep it going and there was lots of little bubble production which seemed to stop the siphon action. This happened more and more near the end of the process. It seemed that c02 trapped in the wine was messing with the siphon operation. I only hope the additional pumping didn't add too much air, I was pretty stressed and disappointed with my first rack with that auto siphon I must say. Do you think my wine is ruined? Should I consider using a regular racking cane next time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that it's in the carboy with a ferm lock it's bubbling pretty intensely. Is this normal? It was at an SG of 1.00 before I did the transfer. Is it still fermenting out alcohol from the last bit of remaining sugar? Or is this just dissolved c02 gasing out of the wine? Did the siphon malfunction disturb the wine in some way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips to a newb much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18199" LastActivityDate="2022-12-24T22:00:40.083" Title="c02 production during secondary fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-08T09:14:54.137" Score="6" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used only DME and hops to boil the wort. Added dry yeast directly. I looked up on the internet for similar pictures but couldn't find any. I know every beer ferments differently. So I thought I better ask before I dump it. Any help is highly appreciated. This is what it looks like -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FTt0B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FTt0B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18200" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T23:37:08.547" Title="Is my beer infected? from an amateur. Posted a picture" Tags="|fermentation|beer|contamination|primary-fermentation|primary|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24948" CreationDate="2020-05-08T12:30:37.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like Pediococcus contamination:  see here &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9569/is-this-lactobacillus&quot;&gt;Is this lactobacillus?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information about spoilage here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftbrewingbusiness.com/news/four-bacteria-that-will-ruin-your-beer/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.craftbrewingbusiness.com/news/four-bacteria-that-will-ruin-your-beer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lack of sanitation might have cause this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T12:30:37.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24948" CreationDate="2020-05-08T16:36:47.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Obligatory Disclaimer&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm not at all experienced with brewing ... but I have some pretty good experience with spawning and cultivating mushrooms.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That sure looks like a fungal growth to me. Classic mycelium threads, building into a network.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Google Images for you that look pretty similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=mycelium&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;chips=q:mycelium,g_1:fungus:5-0-mnlUgJo%3D&amp;amp;client=ubuntu&amp;amp;hs=AG9&amp;amp;hl=en-GB&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwi23_2c2KTpAhVN1-AKHTpKCUUQ4lYoAXoECAEQFw&amp;amp;biw=1351&amp;amp;bih=645&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google Images : mycelium fungus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with all unknown fungi/mushrooms - until you know exactly what it is, I would recommend caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18192" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T16:36:47.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-09T13:59:22.123" Score="2" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did my first brew in a bag a couple of weeks ago (i've done kits previously), and it's turned out great - much better than  I expected!  The only issue with it was that it produced about 4 gallons of wort, which was slightly reduced when boiling, then reduced again when tapping into the fermenter, and reduced again when transferring it to a clearing container (both times leaving behinds the &quot;dregs&quot;), and reduced again when bottling (again leaving the dregs behind), so it ultimately turned into about 3 gallons of bottled beer.  It's lovely, much nicer than the kits, but I'd like to try for more next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking for my next one I would top the intial fermentation amount up to 5 gallons, since that's what my fermentation bin can contain, in order to end up with a bigger final yield.  I've got a couple of bags of Youngs Brew Enhancer, which is a mix of dried malt and dextrose, and was thinking of adding a gallon of water plus some of that, into the wort, after boiling but before fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions: &#xA;1) how much, do you think?  Each bag is a kilo.  If I was making beer from a kit i would usually add a kilo of sugar to the liquid malt in the can, but I don't know if that's an appropriate comparison when i'm making my own wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Is after boiling the right time to put it in?  Maybe I should add it to the wort before boiling, then add water to top it up to 5 gallons afterwards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Is this just a terrible idea? Is it going to ruin the flavour?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18204" LastEditorUserId="18204" LastEditDate="2020-05-09T14:04:27.137" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T03:39:55.327" Title="Adding &quot;brew enhancer&quot; (dried malt and dextrose) to increase the size of brew-in-a-bag brew" Tags="|all-grain|brewing|extract-plus-grains|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3807" CreationDate="2020-05-09T15:31:31.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason I use about a quarter packet is that yeast reproduces asexually, by fission or budding. The cells mature and divide in two. Two divide to four, then eight, sixteen, and in a day there’s billions, depending on food, trace elements like calcium, and temperature. My wort is always going like mad the next day. Using two packets over a quarter-packet saves you about four yeast reproduction cycles, or a couple hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17772" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T15:31:31.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24920" CreationDate="2020-05-09T15:47:42.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I imagine there’s less air-born wild yeast spores indoors in the winter, so contamination is less likely, but resist opening lids. At end-of-boil all is sterile, so I put a weight on the lid, let it cool overnight and pitch in the kettle the next morning. Keepin’ it simple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17772" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T15:47:42.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-10T16:16:11.983" Score="3" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just realised that I have only added half of the required amount of spray malt to my beer kit on day 7 of fermentation. Can I just stir in another bag of spray malt after racking it off the yeast cake and continue to brew it in the beer bucket with airlock. Would I still add sugar again before putting it into the pressure barrel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18205" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T03:21:27.233" Title="Half the amount of dry spray malt added to a kit" Tags="|fermentation|primary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24956" CreationDate="2020-05-11T03:21:27.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would boil the spray-malt in some water.  This will both dissolve and sanitise the malt.  As soon as it is at roughly the same temperature as the ferment, add it in and stir well, but minimising splashing as much as possible, so as not to re-introduce too much extra oxygen.  The existing yeast should have no trouble consuming the new sugars.  There should already be roughly enough yeast, so I would not expect another &lt;em&gt;large&lt;/em&gt; growth phase (which is why we minimised the splashing/O2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider your brew to have a delayed fermentation timeline, maybe add another week to the ferment-time-estimate.  Because you are adding water along with the spray malt, the original gravity should be slightly less than what it would have been with the malt all added at the beginning.  This change will be reflected in your final gravity too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But overall it shouldn't cause a big problem to your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T03:21:27.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24953" CreationDate="2020-05-11T03:31:35.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; do this.  It probably wont &quot;ruin&quot; the flavour, but beer is a (sometimes delicate) balance of the sweetness of the malt against the bitterness of the hops.  Your proposal is to add extra sweetness only.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always try to brew the &lt;strong&gt;best possible beer&lt;/strong&gt;.  This means not cutting corners for the sake of a relatively small expense.  You probably spent a couple of hours making the beer.  Please don't spoil it for the sake of 10 grams of hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your recipe and just scale the whole ingredient list (including the hops and yeast) maintaining the ingredient ratios.  If you need to split this into two brew-in-a-bag batches, then that's an easy fix which preserves quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2020-05-11T03:39:55.327" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T03:39:55.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-11T17:41:32.420" Score="2" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, how much danger am I in?  I used a Mr Beer kit...and bottling added priming sugar.  Unfortunately I got on the wrong line - having 500ML bottles, I added the priming sugar for 1 liter bottles.  2 and 1/2 teaspoons and it called for only 1 teaspoon.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18208" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-05-12T13:53:24.787" LastActivityDate="2020-05-12T13:53:24.787" Title="Too much priming Sugar" Tags="|beer|sugar|priming|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24959" CreationDate="2020-05-11T20:38:46.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could end up with bottle bombs, and even if you are lucky, when opening bottle with much more pressure, you risk gushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would empty all bottles in a fermenter, leave it to ferment dry and bottle again with the right quantity of priming sugar.  I prefer to prime the whole batch in a bottling bucket, then mix it well.  When you prime the whole batch, you do not have to care about bottle sizes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T20:38:46.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24967" CreationDate="2020-05-14T13:52:03.133" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;A local craft brew is having a sale on kegs which they brewed up a while back and have not been able to dispense due to the current pandemic situation. I have a 1/2 barrel in my kegerator now and thinking about purchasing a (probably already chilled) keg and letting it sit in the basement for a couple months before installing in the kegerator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also never home brewed before but am reading up on it and slowly acquiring equipment so this question is somewhat related to the forum; If I fill two corny kegs on brew day (put one in the kegerator, and let the other sit for a month in the basement) how will this affect the room temp keg as far as flavor if at all? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T16:09:01.553" Title="What is the effect of storing a full keg at basement temps?" Tags="|beer|keg|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-14T17:11:29.427" Score="1" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what hops are in the Festival Pride of London Porter Beer Kit.&#xA;I tasted what was left in the dry hop packet and I realy liked the taste.&#xA;I would like to find out what the hops are so I can use them in my own Beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all and stay safe.&#xA;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17984" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-05-14T20:39:13.033" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T14:12:59.640" Title="Type of hops in Festival Pride of London Porter" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-14T20:01:57.103" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering whether it would be possible to dehydrate a ginger bug or the yeast part of it. The end goal is to be able to store it in powder form for longer periods of time. I am aware it can be kept in the refrigerator but it would still require feeding. I've bought ginger bug commercially in powder form so I'm sure it can be done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, last but not least, is the sediment which forms at the bottom of the jar the actual active yeast? I've seen a number of posts here on drying beer yeast and it seems that the yeast is picked up from the top of the liquid. On the other hand, bubbles are rising from the bottom to the top so I'd expect the organisms which produce them to be at the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate if someone could shed a little light on the matter :) As a last note, the ginger bug was started with fresh ginger, water and sugar, no other types of yeast have been added. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17242" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T20:01:57.103" Title="Dehydrating ginger bug" Tags="|ale|ginger-beer|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24963" CreationDate="2020-05-15T15:45:45.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not mentionned anywhere on the web what the dry hop is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can buy small hop packs at your local brew store, try buying the smallest amount of &lt;strong&gt;Fuggles&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;East Kent Goldings&lt;/strong&gt; and then compare the smells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am suggesting those two hops, since I know they are used in Porters, but it could be any other, like: Glacier, Bullion or Northern Brewer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T15:45:45.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24962" CreationDate="2020-05-15T16:09:01.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer ages faster at higher temperature, but less than 6 months at 19°C should not harm your beer.  I would not worry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flavour fades in time (malt and hops), so I rarely find that after a year the beer is as good as it was.  Some beers are good to drink young, others are better after 3-4 weeks, it all depends on the type of beer.  By keeping a beer cold, you extend the amount of time before it starts to age.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just had a bottle of Stout from my basement (about 19°C as well) that was 20 months old and it was still quite good. This time I really was surprised how well my beer aged.  The type of beer, hops and alchool content affect its preservation time.  This is an extreme case, I don't recommend keeping it so long at that temperature since there is always a risk of ending up with a bland beer that you won't want to drink, but it shows it is possible to age beer for a lot longer than we think (if the style of the beer allows it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T16:09:01.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24551" CreationDate="2020-05-17T08:13:41.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late to the thread, but I did recently find &lt;a href=&quot;https://gotmead.com/blog/the-mead-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Mead Calculator&lt;/a&gt; thanks to a post on &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/17558/sulfur-smell-from-fermentor&quot;&gt;this other thread&lt;/a&gt;.  The Mead Calculator allows you to plug in up to four different sugar additions, including for various fruits -- which has me stoked, as I'm having a lot of fun with melomels lately and was stumped for how to calculate final ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the calculator isn't perfect (different honeys can have somewhat different sugar content), but it should get you at least in the ballpark for your final ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T08:13:41.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-17T09:17:56.250" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made &quot;Lemon beer&quot; using white granulated sugar, lemons and dry bread yeast. I had it in first fermentation for about 8 days then switched the container to second fermentation for a further 8 days. today i took it out to boil and cool to distill it but the fumes are really strong just a few whiffs and i feel drunk in the head already. Is this batch still safe to consume or should i toss it and start again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18229" LastActivityDate="2020-06-01T15:23:58.240" Title="What happens if i leave my homebrew to ferment for 14 days then boil and cool it to distill it?" Tags="|beer|distillation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-17T13:28:10.567" Score="0" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is my first wine experience. &#xA;I used store bought grape juice, due to lockdown, i added bread yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bubbling stopped about 2 week. So i racked and tried to drink. &#xA;Since it is red wine, i dont know if there is fogging due to yeast. i have no experience&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found high yeasty taste and stomach pain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question&#xA;1. did i drink very early&#xA;2. Should i rack 2 or 3 more time&#xA;3. Should i try a finning agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stuck at Home and this wine... dont know what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18230" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T14:35:40.020" Title="Wine is very yeasty" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24985" CreationDate="2020-05-17T21:33:30.847" Score="1" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some dried malt extract that’s been sitting in the basement for &lt;em&gt;mumble&lt;/em&gt; years. It’s turned into a brick. Is it safe to use this in brewing a new batch of beer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that it may have picked up flavors from the basement, but is it otherwise safe to use? Elsewhere I’ve seen references to DME having a shelf life of a year. Why is that? DME is nearly all sugar, isn’t it? Elsewhere I read that DME might have 4–5% protein and a tiny amount of fat. Can anything happen with these to affect the flavor or safety of the beer made from it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18231" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T14:26:03.880" Title="Is it safe to use old dried malt extract?" Tags="|food-safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-17T23:56:25.683" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a first time homebrewer and I made the schoolboy error of using my old Peroni beer bottles and caps. The caps haven't really taken well (I assume they're a one-time-only seal) and I've ordered new caps online. I bottled the beer late on Saturday with carbonation drops. The new caps will come Wednesday-friday,so potentially 6 days after original bottling. I'm sure the bottles will be leaking CO2 until then and when I open them to replace the caps they'll lose even more.&#xA;So, is the brew ruined or will it carbonate ok over the following week? Should I add another drop to the bottles? Or keep them bottled for 2 weeks from the secondary capping? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice much appreciated &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18232" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T20:18:33.433" Title="Opening bottled beer early" Tags="|recapping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24944" CreationDate="2020-05-18T14:36:32.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Posting an update here for folks who may visit this page in future, and to answer some of the queries I posted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My final product&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AcTGM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AcTGM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My final product&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It tastes like a very very dry white wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No pineapple taste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No naartjie taste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No sugar taste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All converted to alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a tad tarty astringent, but by no means worse on the palate than a medium low price Chardonnay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that is the pectin flavour from the naartjie pith and skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall it is very drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fruit notes are about as strong as say a flavoured bottle water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(a) Can I keep the lid screwed on my 25 litre ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screw the lid on.&#xA;Turn a half turn loose to break the seal.&#xA;No need for any fancy bubble trap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(b) How will I know if the yeast is happy and doing its thing ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't.&#xA;I had no signs of bubbles.&#xA;I had no obvious signs of fermentation at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got quite worried.&#xA;I even added a new yeast batch which I pre-soaked in warm water on day 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then read in a few places that cinnamon is an anti-fungal and anti-bacterial and  it could kill the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, after 7 days, I resigned myself to having made a gross error and was going to toss out and start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I was patient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 8 : I sampled - and it was not bad, and no ugly tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 9 : I bottled - and I could now see a pretty clear layer separating and rising to the top. That's the alcohol. You can see it in the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(c) How do I know when to start Fermentation Stage #2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Patience.&#xA;7 or 8 days or 9 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation Stage #2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a recommended number of days here ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I left it for a long time in primary fermentation, there was no sugar left to convert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have missed out on the 'make fizzy carbonated beer' option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But&lt;/strong&gt; in return for that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have no danger of exploding bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My alcohol levels are way over beer strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fridge Life : Best Before&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I chill the carbonated bottles in my fridge, how long can I keep them (safely) for ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be pretty stable in the fridge now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reckon it should last 2 weeks or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strength and Potency&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have provided enough information, would anyone care to make an educated guess as to my range of possible alcohol levels ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 350 ml glass full is enough to provoke a silly grin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 750 ml amount is enough to significantly discombobulate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put it this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually drink 3 x 750 ml Beers at my local dive bar in an evening - 4.5% alcohol in those. There is no way I could handle that amount of my pineapple naartjie brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I reckon I am up at wine strength. At least 12%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And lastly ... &lt;strong&gt;no hangover&lt;/strong&gt; !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit of a lazy stuffy head the next day, but no headaches or toxin comeback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overall Verdict&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Very happy with myself for a 1st attempt at a Guerrilla Prohibition Brew.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18192" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:22:52.033" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T14:36:32.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24974" CreationDate="2020-05-18T15:12:29.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it should always be boiled, I don't see why it could not be used. Those bits of protein and fat might decompose, but these will not form harmful compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your time to dissolve in hot, but not boiling water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To improve the taste, you could steep some crushed light fresh caramel/crystal malt and add it to the obtained wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T15:12:29.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24978" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-19T19:02:52.173" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally used 6kg's of grains (Simpson's Ale base malt &amp;amp; Caraaroma) for a 10 liter brew, 10grams of Mangrove Jacks Empire Ale Yeast and 75grams of Hops (Columbus,Centennial and Yellow submarine). I am in day 3 of a 14 day fermentation process after which I plan to bottle and store for at least 2months.&#xA;What will the implications be for using excessive grains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18237" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T20:20:58.983" Title="Using 6kg's of grains for a 10liter batch Pale Ale brew" Tags="|fermentation|small-batch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24971" CreationDate="2020-05-19T19:56:50.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, welcome to HB SE.  Questions about distillation are usually not anwsered here, since it is not legal in many countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that if you do not have the right equipment or knowledge, it can be very dangerous, do not take any chances.  Brewing beer is relatively safe, distillation not so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T19:56:50.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24975" CreationDate="2020-05-19T20:18:33.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recapping after 6 days will be too late.  Bottle carbonation is usually done in about or less than one week at the right temperature. I usually give it a week or two to be on the safe side.  But once it is done, letting the bottle sit for a longer time won't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing to do is let the bottles carbonate for at least one week.  Then put one bottle in the fridge for a few hours before opening it.  If it is not carbonated correctly, chances are that CO2 has escaped.  You will need to prime your bottles again, but only do this after letting your bottles carbonate for enough time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have some carbonation but not enough, then one carbonation drop could be too much, you will have to decide at that time. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T20:18:33.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24978" CreationDate="2020-05-20T10:45:05.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first problem is that the Mangrove Jack's Empire Ale yeast has an alcohol tolerance of only 8%. Using some beer recipe software, the amount of malt you used would lead to an alcohol percentage of 15%. Which means that your yeast will stop halfway the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the amount of hops is not matched to the original gravity obtained by using 6kg malt. Your IBU will be lower than for the original beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably move your beer to a larger fermenter and dilute it. The problem here is if the original yeast will restart, but I suppose you might make an active starter with the same yeast to get the fermentation going again. Note that if you do this, the alcohol level will dilute to 4% and then increase again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with dilution is that this also dilutes your hop bitterness, taste and aroma. You could try to adjust this by boiling hops in water and then use this to increase the bitterness. Boiling hops in water has a better efficiency than in sweet wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then you can adjust hop taste and aroma with a hop tea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you work clean and careful, I think that this should not be a problem. There is ongoing fermentation, and there is already alcohol, so if you clean your larger fermentation vessel, I would say that the risk of contamination is minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2020-05-20T10:50:13.807" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T10:50:13.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24978" CreationDate="2020-05-20T20:20:58.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with chthon.  In any case, the results will be different than the orginal recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that is affected by doubling the malt is the hop utilization.  Hop utilization varies depending on the pre-boil gravity : &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/hops/hop-bittering-calculations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/hops/hop-bittering-calculations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully, you used enough water in your mash to get a good conversion? A gravity reading at any point would give you important information on what is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you had enough grain to make a 20L batch, you could double the water and perform dry hopping or hop tea to compensate.  Otherwise you could end up with unfermented sugar that will sweeten you beer.  Note that even if the yeast has an alcohol tolerance of 8%, it doesn't mean it will stop at 8%, it could reach 9% or 10%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T20:20:58.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24972" CreationDate="2020-05-21T06:11:47.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using bread yeast, wine will have more yeasty taste than when prepared with wine yeast.&#xA;How much yeast did you put in? &#xA;2 weeks isn't too early if you're bothered about it's taste only. Did it give you any kick?&#xA;You can buy a hydrometer to check alcohol production.&#xA;Fining agent might help a bit, you can use bentonite powder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18240" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T06:11:47.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24993" CreationDate="2020-05-21T14:18:06.083" Score="1" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr version:&lt;/strong&gt; why does S/Bayanus ferment sucrose to an apparent attenuation of more than 95% while S/Cerevisiae ferments it to an apparent attenuation of about 65-70%?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been experimenting with sugar wash fermentations, using white table sugar (sucrose) and S/Cerevisiae yeast strains marketed as distilling yeast. Attenuation proceeded from an OG of 1,100-1.110 to an SG of around 1.030 (apparent attenuation about 65-70%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This matches what Beersmith predicts, e.g. using 5kg dextrose in an 18 litre batch size with, say, US-05.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I replace S/Cerevisia strains in Beersmith with Red Star Champagne yeast (S/Bayanus) my projected FG drops from 1.032-1.033 to about 1.003. Based on experience I'm happy to accept that (although I haven't tried it yet) but what I don't understand is why champagne yeast (S/Bayanus) ferments sucrose so much better. What Beersmith predicts confirms what I have heard from other home distillers who use champagne yeasts for sugar fermentations, so I'm glad to accept it as a fact but I don't understand why this is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prehydrated the yeast, pitched generously and provided ample levels of yeast nutrients and DO. The yeasts I have tested have an alcohol tolerance of 15% V/V or more, while my fermentation produces no more than about 10%, so it's not the yeast's alcohol tolerance that is the limiting factor here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Beersmith, replacing the sucrose with dextrose (compensating for the fact that dextrose is a monohydrate) makes no difference. Not that I expected any, since yeast enzymatically breaks down sucrose into two monosaccharides and then ferments the monosaccharides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I previously understood, I believed that pretty much all yeast strains should ferment sucrose entirely. But I was obviously wrong: based on what I see in Beersmith &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; on my hydrometer this is not true, and it looks like S/Bayanus ferments sucrose much further than S/Cerevisiae.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this and how does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T16:28:28.580" Title="Sucrose fermentation using S/Cerevisiae vs. S/Bayanus" Tags="|yeast|attenuation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24974" CreationDate="2020-05-21T14:26:03.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried this myself, using DME that had been stored cool, dry and in airtight barrier packaging, but was three years past its BBE date. The beer tasted weird, but I feel fine. However, it is possible for molds to get into old DME which could potentially be harmful since some molds are toxic, so it depends on what has managed to get into it while it was sitting in a dusty and musty basement. If the packaging is intact you should be fine. DME is hygroscopic and may draw in moisture from the air through the plastic of the packaging (unless it is barrier packaging) but molds etc. won't pass through it. So even if it has turned into a brick you should be fine at long as the packaging is 100% intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old malt extract may acquire some weird flavors when it gets too old. It depends on the quality of the original product, its age and the conditions under which it was stored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T14:26:03.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24972" CreationDate="2020-05-21T14:35:40.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer to your 3 questions is YES.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- It is a bit early to drink.  Give it at least 2 more weeks.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2- Give it some time to sediment and rack.  Usually first racking is at the end of fermentation.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3- A fining agent will help to get rid of the remaining yeast in suspension.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can also suggest filtering if fining is not an option.  All this will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T14:35:40.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5124" CreationDate="2020-05-22T02:34:05.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most varieties will safely store frozen for up to a year if wrapped tightly with low oxygen content. Beyond one year you will likely begin to see some degradation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18243" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T02:34:05.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24989" CreationDate="2020-05-22T14:29:32.000" Score="2" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brew n00b here. I've been reading the Palmer book and looking around for gear. I've got a kegerator so not planning on bottling. That kind of makes half the stuff in the &quot;homebrew starter&quot; kits not usable for me (capper, bottles, caps and maybe the siphon depending if fermenter has a spigot) so kind of piece-mealing things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thought I'd go with a 6 or 7 gallon bucket fermenter (I have two 5 gallon corny kegs) because if I decide to scrap the whole project, well, I still have a $30 bucket I can use for ice fishing. The problem is, every bucket fermeter review I find complains of the lid not sealing or it didn't come with and o-ring or somehow otherwise it just inexplicably leaks. So, I gave up on the bucket and started looking into PET carboys. The Bigmouth Bubbler looked great and easy to get in and clean until I found out everyone complaining the lid blows off and saw pics of people rigging up straps and duct tape to hold the thing in place. Is it really this hard to make a fermenter that doesn't leak? wth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I figure a brew kit is about $40 bucks and the cheapest you can get a crappy fermenter for is about $30. If things go bad during primary because the bucket leaks, it's $70 shot and you haven't even made a beer yet. Now I'm eyeballing the Anvil 7.5 or Chapman ST07NP but that's a good chunk of change for starting out. Maybe I could use one of my corny kegs to ferment with, but haven't read up on that yet. I got this far and thought I'd throw it out here. Plenty of you guys are using buckets to ferment. Which one works for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T15:02:33.530" Title="Why is it so hard to find a decent fermenter?" Tags="|fermentation|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24988" CreationDate="2020-05-22T14:56:23.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main problem with leaking buckets and fermenters is that when the fermentation finishes, normal air will start to enter and might start oxidising your beer. This air will mix with the carbon dioxide. How much it might stale and oxidise your beer depends on the size of the leak and the exposure time of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the fermentation itself a leaky bucket is not a problem, I regularly ferment using an open fermentation, but when the fermentation slows down I transfer it to a carboy with an airlock, which is sure to be airtight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All right, this might not really the answer you might be looking for, but what I am trying to say is, don't be fixated about such things. If you adapt your process, a leaky fermenter is less of an issue than you might think. Of course, this is also a question of scale. I only brew about two gallons, so my fermenters and carboys are more practical to move around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could start with your inexpensive plastic fermenter and then transfer to your corny kegs to finish off the fermentation before transferring it to your keezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are using a keezer, I suppose that your beer on tap will be used relatively fast, so don't worry about oxygen. Are you using your corny kegs in the keezer, or do you have still other kegs in there? At least try to match them in volume so that headspace is minimised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bottle, but ultimately a whole lot of my beers (except some simple ones) are transferred from primary to a secondary vessel to finish off the fermentation, and then they are transferred to a bottling bucket, and then into bottles. I haven't had oxidised beer yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2020-05-22T15:02:33.530" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T15:02:33.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25005" CreationDate="2020-05-24T17:13:24.090" Score="0" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;My old valve (on the right) was leaking so ordered a new one from Amazon. It was the only kind I could find so assumed they were all the same. It doesn't seem to fit my keg though. Can someone tell me what &quot;style&quot; my old one is so I can order the correct one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nqvUh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nqvUh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;valve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastEditorUserId="18216" LastEditDate="2020-05-25T00:52:03.760" LastActivityDate="2020-05-30T10:52:49.977" Title="Why are these corny keg relief valves different?" Tags="|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24984" CreationDate="2020-05-25T13:14:56.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I'm not entirely sure what you're proposing is true (see below), here are some points to consider which potentially support your claim:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Saccharomyces bayanus&lt;/em&gt; has an &lt;strong&gt;active&lt;/strong&gt; fructose uptake system, while &lt;em&gt;S. cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt; relies on 'facilitated diffusion' to uptake fructose. Meaning? &lt;em&gt;S. bayanus&lt;/em&gt; actually expends cellular energy to bring fructose into the cell from outside. While the net energy gained from metabolizing each molecule of fructose is therefore lower (by ~25%) than it would be if no energy had been expended, it could be more efficient &lt;em&gt;overall&lt;/em&gt;. Facilitated diffusion, on the other hand, relies only on the concentration gradient of fructose between the outside and inside of the cell (a higher concentration outside basically forces fructose in through the cellular membrane). However, this 'driving force' becomes less and less as the concentration outside the cell decreases. This suggests that &lt;em&gt;S. cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt; may be less efficient at sucrose utilization (given that sucrose is just glucose and fructose bound together).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;S. bayanus&lt;/em&gt; also has the ability to grow in a vitamin-free medium, whereas &lt;em&gt;S. cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt; does not. This could be an important differentiation in the case of a sugar wash, where vitamins/nutrients should be limited to what you provide. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, though, I'm just a bit skeptical, for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I personally couldn't find any evidence online suggesting that strains of &lt;em&gt;S. bayanus&lt;/em&gt; were more able to ferment sucrose-based sugar wash. If you had any to share, I think that would be helpful in establishing whether or not it's actually true.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm pretty sure BeerSmith isn't working complex physiological considerations into its attenuation calculations (that is to say, I think attenuation is considered &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; as the percentage of drop in gravity from OG, and doesn't involve calculating complicated interactions between yeast species and sugar source). This seems born out by the fact that you see no difference in the program's predictions when you replace sucrose with dextrose (both being 100% fermentable). My guess is that the yeast you switched to simply has a higher attenuation value associated with it (again, just a guess, I'm not very familiar with BeerSmith).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've never done a sugar wash before, but your finishing gravity of 1.030 seems &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; high for what other people online report (see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hiproofproducts.com/how-to-high-proof-your-moonshine.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.opensourcedistilling.com/sugar-wash-fermentation-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, eg.). It seems like sugar washes benefit from long fermentation and a very close eye on things like pH and nutrient availability. From my own experience, I've always found it to hold true that (for all intents and purposes) both sucrose and dextrose are fully fermentable by all commonly used yeast strains (at least within that strain's own limitations). This could suggest that your fermentations with &lt;em&gt;S. cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt; are not reaching their full attenuation potential.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another thing to watch out for is that (at least according to Wikipedia) &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccharomyces_bayanus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;many strains marketed as &lt;em&gt;S. bayanus&lt;/em&gt; are found to actually be &lt;em&gt;S. cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should always try to remember that comparing different yeast strains (and in this case species) is never going to be a 1-to-1 comparison. Strains and species have highly specific requirements for nutrients and environmental conditions (e.g. the idea I mentioned above that &lt;em&gt;S. bayanus&lt;/em&gt; can grow in a medium free of vitamins) and just because you're treating the fermentations the same way (yeast nutrient, DO, etc.) doesn't necessarily mean you can assume the outcome represents the theoretically capabilities of the particular yeast. Even just different strains of &lt;em&gt;S. cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt; will respond very differently to environmental factors such as pH, nitrogen availability, ethanol levels, temperature etc., and I think this especially holds true in a very nutrient-limited situation like a sugar wash. Just for example, consider that, under nitrogen starvation, &lt;em&gt;S. cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt; is known to &lt;strong&gt;irreversibly&lt;/strong&gt; lose function of its sugar transporter molecules (basically the cell will break down and use its own internal proteins/enzymes as a nitrogen source). This indicates that, though you may be feeding with a decent amount of yeast nutrient, if the levels and (possibly more importantly) the timing of this addition isn't right, it can lead to a non-reversible change in yeast physiology which could affect fermentation performance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the real point here, though, is that yeast and fermentation are an incredibly complicated thing. I think it's advisable, then, to be cautious about the assumptions you make about one species, especially if they're based on 1. the predictions of a computer program and 2. your experience with a &lt;em&gt;different&lt;/em&gt; yeast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;*Info not linked was taken from the book &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=L3SU4ahY-m4C&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;pg=PA75#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewing Yeast and Fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T13:14:56.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-25T22:48:16.420" Score="3" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know in terms of chemical bonds, what ageing actually means. It should also explain the &quot;smoothness&quot; of a finely aged wine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18248" LastActivityDate="2020-06-21T13:27:22.503" Title="What is ageing in terms of chemical bonds?" Tags="|wine|aging|chemistry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-26T16:21:13.590" Score="4" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a total beginner and really appreciative of any advice here. I'm making a 1 gallon batch of IPA from a kit. I brewed 16 days ago, and in the first 48 hours of the wort being in the fermenter it was bubbling away like crazy. It then settled down and I could see the liquid become less opaque and darker, as the yeast cake formed at the bottom. Today I went to look again as I had planned to bottle this evening, and it's more opaque again, and looks more active. What could be the cause for this. The last few days have been slightly warmer here (it's gone from ~20°C to 25°C), could it be the temperature variation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to this, I have been measuring the gravity with a refractometer every 3/4 days just to see how it was changing. After the first 3 days it had dropped to 1.034. Since then (almost two weeks now) it has remained at that value, so I thought fermentation must have been over? I have tested my refractometer on water and it seems to be calibrated well. Either way, poor calibration wouldn't account for the value not changing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in summary, why does my wort suddenly seem more active again after 16 days, and why hasn't my gravity measurement changed for two weeks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18251" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-05-26T18:19:19.363" LastActivityDate="2021-08-08T04:10:41.113" Title="Activity in fermenter has increased suddenly after 2 weeks, why?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|specific-gravity|beginner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24997" CreationDate="2020-05-26T19:16:07.847" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time brewer here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a &lt;a href=&quot;https://brooklynbrewshop.com/pages/instructions-new-england-ipa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brooklyn Brew Shop kit for a NE IPA&lt;/a&gt; on my birthday and followed all the instructions, I thought, well. I pitched the yeast sometime in the afternoon this Sunday and next morning there was nice foam and activity in the beer, much to my delight. The instructions said the heaviest fermentation should last 2-3 days so I planned to switch the blow-off tube for the airlock on Wednesday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However by Monday afternoon, the foam subsided and a deposit formed. This picture shows how the fermenter looks like since Monday yesterday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/4uvBvtWtwcf9YG8K9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.app.goo.gl/4uvBvtWtwcf9YG8K9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a bit of reading around and while most comments tend to be positive that the beer should be fine, I am worried that there is a sediment formed after only 24 hours. Most posts suggest checking the gravity but since it's a beginners kit it didn't come with a hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I have 2 questions about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the fact the sediment formed mean the yeast is kaput?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not, what will the impact be on the final product?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18252" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T19:45:54.943" Title="Foam collapsed after less than 1 day" Tags="|fermentation|beginner|krausen|foam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24996" CreationDate="2020-05-26T19:45:54.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The foam you are talking about is normally called &quot;kraüsen&quot; (mostly) or &quot;barm&quot; (sometimes, UK). The sediment at the bottom is excess yeast and trub that has dropped out of your beer. Even if a fermentation is going on for a longer time, this layer will form, so do not worry about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the picture, I see that you had a very vigorous fermentation. This is noticeable by the specks of yeast on the fermenter glass in the upper part. I would think that your fermentation was done at a higher temperature than normally would be used, which should be between 18° C and 21° C, which would be ideal. Also the fact that your fermentation is finished this fast is an indication of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Charlie Papazian says, &quot;Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the blow-off tube with the airlock, and let the fermentation finish. If you need to add dry hops, add them now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you don't have a hydrometer, check the speed of the airlock bubbles. If they take more than 30 seconds, consider it fit to continue with bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say, buy a hydrometer in the meantime, but since this is a small kit, and a NEIPA, I would advise against taking samples, because you will lose too much beer, and NEIPA is sensitive to oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your birthday present!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T19:45:54.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5124" CreationDate="2020-05-26T21:06:48.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the hops book from the great Brewing Elements series, if you store your hops pellets in the freezer in a vacuum bag, it should stay usable for up to three years in general. Loss of alpha acid will occur, but not too much. This is not true for fresh hops, though. I store my hops in a freezer at -16deg C and vacuum it always after use and am pretty content with it. The key factors here are oxygen and temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18249" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T21:06:48.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-27T02:27:33.063" Score="2" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed beer in 5 gallon bucket in my nyc apt then had to leave town bc of covid. Been sitting there 2 months. Will it be smelling up my apt or building?  the water on airlock has surely evaporated. What to expect for smell ? Wont be able to go there to ditch it for 1 more month. Should i worry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18253" LastActivityDate="2020-06-01T23:05:06.743" Title="Beer left fermenting 2 months" Tags="|fermentation|aroma|bucket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24999" CreationDate="2020-05-27T19:47:53.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two months is not too much, if the temperature is not too hot.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best scenario, you could be lucky and still have some water in the airlock.  Beer might be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst scenario, water has evaporated in the airlock.  Beer has a great risk of contamination or spoilage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the smell, it will depend on temperature as well.  If the airlock is dry and the temperature rises, so will the smell.  If you can send someone to get rid of it, you could also send someone to fill the airlock, giving you more time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T19:47:53.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-28T16:44:33.353" Score="2" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a few batches of hard cider but now wanting to do something different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was a kid the neighbors gave us fresh pressed apple cider and if we didn't drink it right away it would turn hard and become carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have purchased Cider that is pasteurized, dark and cloudy, no additives. I don't  want to actually create alcohol but I want it to be sweet and fizzy. If this is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I just add a slight bit of yeast and cap it? Maybe a pinch? Not enough to cause it to blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really appreciate any info, yay or nay&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18261" LastActivityDate="2020-05-29T17:23:45.947" Title="Carbonating pasteurized cider ... experimenters?" Tags="|carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25001" CreationDate="2020-05-28T20:28:37.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding yeast to produce gas will also produce alcohol.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a pinch of yeast is not the solution since yeast cells will reproduce themselves until all the sugar is converted to alcohol and CO2 (unless you pasteurize again to kill the yeast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Force carbonation seems to be what you need, but it will cost you to pruchase the equipment.  A sodastream could work, but usually it doesn't work well with beer because of the foam, cider could be fine but I am not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- &lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt; --&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Non fermentable sugars can be added to get that sweetness feel as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-05-29T17:23:45.947" LastActivityDate="2020-05-29T17:23:45.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25004" CreationDate="2020-05-29T00:37:13.950" Score="1" ViewCount="919" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how they manage to stop all these (naturally) fermented drinks sold commercially from fermenting once they are bottled? I’ve seen kombucha bottles coming from another part of the world sold in local large supermarkets. Even assuming ideal transport conditions (cold temps) how can they maintain alcohol levels low enough? Do they treat them thermally or chemically?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a refrigerator helps slow down the fermentation process but even so, my ginger ale keeps fermenting at 2 Celsius to an extent that after 3 days it’s quite alcoholic, one can actually taste the difference. That makes me think that simply storing / transporting them in cold temperatures isn’t enough and that there’s more going on, surely there are some industry standards in this field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how do this aspect is handled in the fermented drinks industry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17242" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T05:46:21.063" Title="Stopping fermentation in soft drinks" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|kombucha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25003" CreationDate="2020-05-29T17:21:39.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold alone is not really an option, since yeast will not die but become dormant, and could be reactivated after heating a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways to acheive this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pasteurization&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This will kill the yeast, but heating could affect the final product in some cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filtration&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A very fine filter can remove yeast particles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sweeteners/Less sugar&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Adding non fermentable sugar allows to keep some sweetness.  Less fermentable sugars will produce less alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-05-29T17:21:39.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24991" CreationDate="2020-05-30T10:52:49.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the vent hole in the keg lid for the old valve (on the right) was 3/16&quot;. The new valve appears to be for a 1/4&quot; hole so ended up drilling out the vent hole in the lid. Maybe this will be helpful to anyone else stumbling across the same thing. Seems to seal OK with the new valve. &lt;em&gt;shrug&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2020-05-30T10:52:49.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25010" CreationDate="2020-05-30T21:00:50.327" Score="4" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only recently started making hard cider at home. My problem is that it causes a uncomfortable burning sensation in my stomach after two or so drinks.&#xA;I am using about 5g of yeast and 1.5kg sugar on 5 litres of cider (approx. 1.3 gallon) and it ferments for about 7 to 10 days. I then add about 100 grams sugar before bottling to give it some fizz. After about a day or so I cold crash and then consume.&#xA;Any ideas what could be causing the burning stomach and how to go about eliminating the problem?&#xA;Any ideas will be highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18269" LastEditorUserId="18269" LastEditDate="2020-06-02T13:48:55.797" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T22:09:13.427" Title="Hard Cider causing burning stomach sensation" Tags="|fermentation|carbonation|ph|acidity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24947" CreationDate="2020-05-31T17:49:23.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen it before, nucleation at the transition to the hose bad enough to break the siphon.  I attributed it to racking too soon, but that's just a guess.  A rapid push to the bottom and leaving the plunger at the tip usually got a reliable flow.  You didn't leave it half way up the outer tube or pull it back up one more time to have a large volume in the tube?  And I've had an autosiphon go bad with hairline cracks in the outer tube.  Debris, troob trapped between the seal and outer tube is also possible, a problem that won't be there when you go back to look for it since washing it after racking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I almost always get secondary airlock activity after racking, but not vigorous.  I can't think of any cause of vigorous bubbling in the secondary except further fermentation.    Might be that you stirred up the yeast.  Possibly reinvigorated it with aeration during the racking.  Possibly contaminated and you're getting bacterial or wild yeast fermentation.  Or as simple as it hadn't reached FG which might explain continued fermentation and nucleation while racking.  Have you given it a taste since?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17912" LastActivityDate="2020-05-31T17:49:23.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24995" CreationDate="2020-05-31T23:13:50.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only guess, but very low ambient temperatures will cause the yeast to slow, which could look like a stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I experienced this with a recent batch.  It had been cooling here, with an ambient daytime temperature of just below 20C.  That's perfect for fermenting ales, so I just leave them outside (under cover).  However, the day after I pitched my yeast, and for the next few days we had a big chill.  I brought the beer inside the house.  I really did observe quite a significant second kräusen form when the brew finally warmed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really think you have a stall like this, the standard practice is to warm the beer back up to 17-20C.  If there's been no obvious cooling, gently rouse the yeast from the bottom of the fermenter by swirling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes if you have bad yeast, or bad procedures, your yeast can fail.  In this case you can add more yeast, but really it should never get to this.  Given you got a restarting of fermentation, I don't think this is the case.  Taking an extra week (or even 2) wont hurt your beer at all.  Make another batch while you wait ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-05-31T23:13:50.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25003" CreationDate="2020-05-31T23:26:14.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commonly in wine and apple cider production, potassium sorbate and sodium metabisulfite are used to control yeast (and bacteria). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The potassium sorbate stops the yeast from multiplying, while the sodium metabisulfite kills (most of) the yeast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-05-31T23:26:14.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25006" CreationDate="2020-06-01T00:05:53.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thoughts:  During fermentation, lots of un-tasty yeast by-products are created (including fusel alcohols).  Giving the fermentation time to finish allows the yeast to re-process these by-products, but you're interrupting this by cold-crashing early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second thought: 100 grams of sugar is enough to prime 20 litres / 5 gallons of cider.  Your question states a batch size &quot;5 litres ± 1 gal&quot; (1 to 9 litres), so 100 grams of sugar for this is quite a lot.  Maybe your cider is very gassy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final thought: After one day of fermentation (and a chill-time of 24 hours), the ferment will have a lot of super active yeast.  Perhaps this yeast is re-fermenting once it warms up inside you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always try to make the best possible drink.  So let's do a walk-through of just that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just use enough apple juice, leave the sugar out.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store-bought is OK, but make sure there's no preservatives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a minimum 0.6 grams of yeast per litre&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a purpose-bred yeast if at all possible&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And don't automatically reach for champagne yeast, it's too dry (IMHO) for cider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use bread-making yeast rather than wild yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean and sanitise your equipment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring your juice to 16-22°C  (60-70°F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the juice roughly to get some air into it, (this adds some oxygen for the yeast).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the ferment in the 16-22°C range until complete.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cleverbrewing.com.au/brewing-hydrometer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydrometer&lt;/a&gt; to measure the remaining sugar-density&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OR ... Wait 2 weeks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Typically&lt;/em&gt; cider will finish around 0.999 (from a starting gravity of 1.040)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle the cider with 5 grams per litre of priming sugar, into PET bottles.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait 2 weeks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Back-sweeten in the glass with apple juice, to taste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2020-06-02T22:09:13.427" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T22:09:13.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25006" CreationDate="2020-06-01T12:15:19.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With some ciders I experience the same burning sensation after a few ciders.  I haven't figured out the exact causes yet but I will share a few theories worth testing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Acidity.  Some apples are much higher acidity than others.  Also some yeasts will produce a higher acid product than others.  And as Kingsley also alluded to, carbon dioxide is also acidic so if the cider is highly carbonated, this could be a problem for some people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Sulfites.  If your cider is treated with sulfites before and/or after fermentation, be aware that some people are sensitive to it or claim an allergic type reaction to it.  This is why commercial ciders and wines will notify whether or not they have used sulfites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Alcohols.  The alcohol itself could be causing a problem.  And depending on the juice source, if there is haze or starches present, you could have trace amounts other alcohols besides ethanol including methanol or other higher alcohols that your body is telling you it doesn't like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Wild yeast.  I believe this is unlikely, however if your source juice was not treated to get rid of any wild organisms that might be present, these beasts could theoretically survive in the finished cider and could potentially wreak havoc to your digestive system.  I have my doubts with this one, as I believe alcohol will kill most wild organisms, however like I said this might deserve more testing on a case-by-case basis if the juice is not pasteurized or treated with sulfites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theories worth testing.  I have not tasted your cider so it is difficult to pinpoint which of these is closer to the right one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-06-01T12:15:19.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24971" CreationDate="2020-06-01T15:23:58.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said you boiled and cooled it to distill it. Unless you are leaving out a lot of steps, you didn't distill your drink, you just boiled it. Boiling a drink like this will reduce the alcohol content and change the flavour, as well as producing more alcohol fumes, which may be why it smells stronger now. It shouldn't be any less safe to drink than it was when you finished the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18274" LastActivityDate="2020-06-01T15:23:58.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24999" CreationDate="2020-06-01T23:05:06.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 months is fine.  Lots of people will leave their beer in a secondary fermentor longer than that.  The only issue you'll have is that your beer might be oxidized and taste old because the cheapo plastic bucket fermentors generally aren't terribly air tight and are only good for the primary fermentation.  If it was in a carboy or more airtight vessel, it would be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for smell, it won't.  I once forgot to clean out a fermentor after bottling and had it sit in a hot garage with about half a gallon of beer and the yeast cake for the better part of a year without odor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18275" LastActivityDate="2020-06-01T23:05:06.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-02T23:50:54.723" Score="4" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nearly all articles about ageing wine say it is important to control the humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you try to find out why the answers are all about preventing the cork from drying out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here in New Zealand/Australia we have long abandoned corks for screw top bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there reasons to control the humidity if you are ageing in screw top bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="797" LastActivityDate="2020-06-04T14:40:17.353" Title="Does humidity matter for ageing wine in screw top bottles" Tags="|wine|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25015" CreationDate="2020-06-03T16:45:34.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No it does not. When it comes to screw caps, the things important to keep away from aging wine in a screwcap bottle are light, heat and motion. If oxygen can't penetrate the cap, how could humidity? Just keep it out of light and keep it cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="14765" LastEditDate="2020-06-04T14:40:17.353" LastActivityDate="2020-06-04T14:40:17.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-03T21:42:24.863" Score="3" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing this cider for 8 days. It was going smooth and had a lot of krausen so I took out a bit two days ago, but now it has passed more than 48hh and I was expecting some more krausen or some more movement, but even the airlock has nearly stopped bubbling now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I kill my cider? &#xA;What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have a 6L plastic carboy, and used 3,5g of champagne yeast(bioferm champ))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18282" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-06-04T12:55:06.227" LastActivityDate="2020-06-04T12:55:06.227" Title="Did I kill my cider?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|cider|krausen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25017" CreationDate="2020-06-04T00:48:23.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;No.&lt;/em&gt; You didn't kill your cider, this description sounds like a perfectly normal fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally a yeast fermentation is vigorous in the first 1~7 days (typically producing a krausen), this phase is known by the term &quot;primary fermentation&quot;.  The time taken can be significantly different depending on temperature, sugar-concentration, amount of yeast, etc. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once most of the sugars have been consumed by the yeast, the process starts to calm down a bit.  The krausen collapses, dissolving back into the ferment - sometimes you're too busy to see the krausen, just a crusty ring let's you know it's been and gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, in the cider there may only be a small amount of sugars remaining, and/or the more complex sugars - yeast always processes the simplest sugars first.  Although generally juice mainly has simple sugars (unlike say beer wort). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This next stage is known as &quot;secondary fermentation&quot;.  Although not rapidly consuming sugar, the yeast is still working.  It's settling out, preparing to go dormant.  Importantly part of this is re-processing some un-tasty fermentation by-products - this is why you always want to ensure your fermentation is complete.  So don't go bottling your cider as soon as the krausen drops!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've not been measuring gravity with a hydrometer (AKA &quot;saccharometer&quot;), I would let the yeast continue until 2 weeks have elapsed.  However this timing assumes the the ferment is relatively warm at 16-20C.  Below 16C some yeast slow their work dramatically, so it's hard to give anything other than approximate &quot;usually&quot; timings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So wait ~4 more days.  You may see the cider starting to clear as the yeast drops out of suspension.  Then measure the gravity, confirm it's finished and go from there.  If you're not measuring gravity, bottle into PET bottles rather than glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2020-06-04T00:54:01.333" LastActivityDate="2020-06-04T00:54:01.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25020" CreationDate="2020-06-05T08:19:07.117" Score="2" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summer is here and it isn’t quite the end of the world, yet. So, I’d figure I might pick up brewing again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I’m looking for yeast suggestions for a low (neutral) phenolic profile at high temperatures.&lt;/strong&gt; But also stay clear of Saison all together this time around. I’ve read &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/20218/tips-for-brewing-at-high-temperatures&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; and also found one potential candidate &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hembryggeriet.se/fermentis-safale-k-97-jaest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Safale K-97&lt;/a&gt; and discarded a one on passed attempts. Namely US-05.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of style I’m looking for something that could work with ale style hops. I got Jester, Nelson, and quite a few classic style APA hops of many varieties. Additionally, I have plenty of porter hops which I don’t intend to use ATM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Passed experiences have rendered the beer too phenolic. Only Belgian Stong Ales or Wit has made a decent drinkable beer at higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My temperatures are around 20-28 C (68 F to 81 F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15826" LastEditorUserId="15826" LastEditDate="2020-06-05T09:13:19.467" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T14:34:54.347" Title="Yeast suggestions for high temperature brewing" Tags="|yeast|beer|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25019" CreationDate="2020-06-05T14:34:54.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the high end (81F) plus an additional couple of degrees generated by the yeast there isn't much except Kveik that would make decent beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the lower end, there are some Ale-strains that would produce okay beer, I suspect that you will have better results by finding a cooler room - or try to investigate some cooling hacks (wet wrapping + fan, or immersed in cooler water that you replace every now and then, i.e. in the tub).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AqF52.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AqF52.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Borrowed from LugWrench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15029" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T14:34:54.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2020-06-05T21:37:59.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the idea of wild yeasts &amp;amp; bacteria, sourdough cultures and genetic drift. What better way to discover new and original beer flavors. The yeasts may adapt in time to the particular type of ingredients people use in their brewing. I've been using my own sourdough yeast culture to brew beer for years...just prepared by taking wild yeasts and bacteria at random out of the air into a flour and water mixture, which begins to ferment after about a week and can be kept in a fridge for months or years by feeding weekly with a tablespoon of wholegrain flour and a little freshly squeezed lemon juice plus a little yeast nutrient occasionally. I like to add some of the spent yeast from the previous brew to the culture to keep it stronger and livelier. I also use this yeast for baking bread. Just recently I did try a commercial ale yeast called Nottingham to see how it would compare. I have to admit, the Nottingham yeast did give a more rapid (3-4 days) and complete fermentation, right down to 1.004 SG. My own yeast is slower (about 7-10 days) and gets down to about 1.008. I have kept a culture of the Nottingham yeast in my fridge for future experimentation. I can see why the faster yeasts would be an advantage for commercial beer brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18290" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T21:37:59.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-08T10:13:46.207" Score="1" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure whether this would be the best place to ask or some other group, but let’s try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making mango wine I am currently blending fresh fruit and sieving the pulp with a thin filter (kitchen equipment, not sure of the exact size of the filter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to add water to the pulp to manage it better but that led to loss of sugar, flavor and  acidity. After primary, sediment would be 1/3 of the initial volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then tried using pure pulp and the sediment after primary would be about 1/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve tried to get thinner juice by removing solids. I acquired a press with filter bags and pressed the fruit but the consistency of the pulp prevents juice flow before enzyme and fermentation. And when I tried the same method after enzyme and / or fermentation, the particles are so thin that they squeeze out under pressure of the press. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A method that has some degree of success was pouring some amount of pulp in a filter bag, and manually centrifuging the bag inside a bucket. Somehow the movement and pressures combined seem to work better than using the press alone. However this method isn’t sanitary and not scalable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to find out what equipment and method I could be using to extract the juice from the pulp of mango, and get a really thin juice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m not sure if this problem is unique to mango, because with other fruits I use, the juice is either thin or the pulp can easily be separated from the juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3813" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T15:27:25.407" Title="Best method for mango pulp-juice separation?" Tags="|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25027" CreationDate="2020-06-08T18:05:13.687" Score="6" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a newbie brewer currently trying his luck with an irish red ale kit. I've followed the instructions (which weren't complicated since it's a kit), and I've let it brew for about 6 days now (instructions claim 4–6 days to completion in 18–20°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First question&lt;/strong&gt;: The inctructions say the ale should read constantly below 1.014° when it's done, but I measured it to a bit above 1.017° both yesterday and today. I checked the temperature today, and it was 17°C. I don't think I've treated my yeast particularly well temperature-wise; the weather here and my lack of any real temperature control has probably lead to temperatures between 16–22°C (it was probably too warm when I began brewing, and too cool the last couple of days).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering: Should I heat it up to 20°C and let it sit a couple of days to be on the safe side, or  should I accept the slightly higher gravity reading and just bottle it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second question&lt;/strong&gt;: I noticed that after the krausen disappeared, there are theese brown &amp;quot;floaters&amp;quot; on the surface (I'll add a picture), almost like some of the dry yeast clumped together. Does this look normal, or did I manage to get an infection on my first attempt at beer brewing? (It doesn't smell off at all, if anything it smells surprisingly sweet, almost wine-ish.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreaciate any input. Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/36Quz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/36Quz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: As a final update, I thought I'd post how the beer turned out. After leaving the beer alone for quite a while, the gravity remained stable at 1.015°. I've no idea why the FG ended up too high. (Thoughts, anyone?) Anyway, I bottled the beer with carbonation drops and let it sit in my basement for about two weeks before finally tasting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer turned out pretty good, though a bit too malty. It carbonating nicely, ruled out dead yeast as the culprit for the high FG. Another week later, the beer tasted even better and not as sweet; it seems another week in the bottle did wonders for the taste (patience coming back to bite me in the arse again). It has a nice fruity character, but is still bitter enough to keep things balanced (at least after the third week post bottling). I'd describe it as interesting and refreshing, and it has a pleasing tawny red colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, I'm a very happy brewer at the moment, and I look forward to my next batch (a helles lager). For those of you who are interested, I used the St. Peter's Ruby Red Ale kit. Happy brewing, folks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18300" LastEditorUserId="18300" LastEditDate="2020-07-14T16:19:06.357" LastActivityDate="2020-07-14T16:19:06.357" Title="Didn't reach expected FG. Should I postpone bottling? Also: It looks weird!" Tags="|yeast|temperature|contamination|ale|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25028" CreationDate="2020-06-08T19:07:10.290" Score="1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started a fermentation 24 hours ago and it has increased the temperature from 22°C to 28°C in the last 8 hours. Additionally the gravity dropped from 1.060 to 1.024 already which seems insanely fast for a brew that is supposed to end at 1.017.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Fermzilla with pressure kit and put the insulation jacket on immediately, I guess that's where the temperature rise came from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this gravity drop normal? It seems insanely fast to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18151" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-06-09T14:29:33.243" LastActivityDate="2020-07-03T13:32:18.290" Title="Beer fermentation runs real warm and dropped gravity real fast" Tags="|beer|fermentation-temperature|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25025" CreationDate="2020-06-09T03:49:08.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That beer definitely needs more time. It's likely that the periods of lower temperature slowed or potentially even halted fermentation, and the sweet smell you describe is probably unfermented sugars in the wort. You just need to warm that brew up a bit (19°C as you've said there is perfect) and wait another couple of days at least. At best, bottling now will give you a sweet, green-tasting beer - and at worst, bottle bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also doesn't look infected to me - that just looks like standard yeast rafts. If you haven't stirred it already, I'd simply warm it and leave it alone. From the appearance of the brew, the yeast is still suspended and stirring will simply introduce the possibility for oxygenation. If you do stir, try and minimise any splashing (and as hard as it is to resist peeking, try to keep the lid on the fermentation vessel too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen it said that patience is one of the hardest things for new homebrewers to learn. I don't know about anyone else, but it definitely was for me. Just warm it up, relax, give it a few days (or even a week) and then take another reading. And if you're still concerned about infections, give the sample a smell and taste - if it doesn't smell or taste sour or otherwise off then it's almost certainly fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18302" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T03:49:08.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25026" CreationDate="2020-06-09T14:29:07.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very fast, probably due to the high temperature (the higher the faster it will ferment), the insulation jacket would keep it warmer.  The type of yeast used cans also cause this, some yeast are more vigorous than others, but in the end, the main reason is the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your room temperature, you might not need an insulation jacket (I never used one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-07-03T13:32:18.290" LastActivityDate="2020-07-03T13:32:18.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25032" CreationDate="2020-06-09T17:43:00.697" Score="2" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the Covid lock down in South Africa there was quite a controversial ban on the sale of alcohol for a few weeks which led to many people jumping on the home brewing bandwagon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During this time a few news reports surfaced of people falling seriously ill and even dying as a result of drinking homemade beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think these articles are purposefully exaggerated, misreported, and in some cases the beer involved was spiked with something to make it more &quot;potent&quot; like methalated spirits or IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I, with sheer carelessness and supermarket ingredients, make beer that's so poisonous that a sip can kill me, or that isn't putrid enough for me to consume enough to kill me? The only thing I can think of to do wrong is bad hygiene practice and not sanitize my equipment, but that would most likely just make either vinegar or something undrinkably rotten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18305" LastActivityDate="2020-07-15T08:30:08.313" Title="How careless do I need to be to make poisonous, yet drinkable, beer?" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25029" CreationDate="2020-06-09T18:11:53.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process of making beer is safe if you are careful with sanitation.  Most bacteria contamination will be visible or smellable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, poisoning can occur when adding ingredients or using cleaning agents that are not safe, and might not be detectable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never heard of beer poisoning recently, but I know of a commercial brewery that closed in Canada because of arsenic and cobalt sulfate contamination.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dow_Breweries&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dow_Breweries&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T18:11:53.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25029" CreationDate="2020-06-09T19:42:41.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is really hard to make a poisonous brew with regular, plant based ingredients. Fruit, sugar and some yeast is all you really need. The easiest is apple/grape juice, sugar and some bakers yeast. If you want to make real beer, that will involved either malt syrup, hops, water and yeast. But, unless you have homebrew shops everywhere like we do here in the USA, you won't find the ingredients to make a real beer. It's best to stick with cider and fruit wines. Just search Google on how to make hard apple cider from grocery store ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to emphasize, you cannot make something at home that will poison you (unless you over consume) with common supermarket ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T19:42:41.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25035" CreationDate="2020-06-10T08:28:12.917" Score="1" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started brewing again after a very long break. I've tried a few brews from kits, and for my latest brew I decided to create my own wort from LME/DME and hops (pellets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I basically followed &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/a-crash-course-in-brewing/brew-day&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;John Palmer's Cincinnati Pale Ale recipe&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this was my first homemade wort, I followed the instructions pretty close to the letter (even a small boil over). I boiled all the water, including 12 litres that I added to the fermenting bin at the start of the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was that water hadn't cooled nearly enough by the time I'd crash-cooled my wort, so the final temperature of my the combined water and wort was still around 32C - too hot to pitch the rehydrated/proofed yeast (Safale US-05).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I continued to cool the wort in the ice bath, but it meant the yeast had been rehydrating for around 5 hours before I finally pitched it into a 22C wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within a couple of hours (by which time it was close to 11pm), the airlock was bubbling. But the next morning, there was no activity at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the course of the next day, I noticed the krausen developing, but no pressure building in the airlock. It wasn't until ~30hours after pitching that the bubbling started again. By this time, the krausen was 8cm/3inches high, so there was definitely something going on, but this only lasted for about 12hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature in the brewing room is fairly consistent around 17C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is there a time limit on rehydrating the yeast? Has the extended time rehydrating caused this strange fermentation behaviour, or is it likely I've done something else wrong, or is it most likely that this beer will work out fine in the end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18303" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T08:30:15.517" Title="For how long should you rehydrate/proof yeast before pitching?" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25033" CreationDate="2020-06-11T08:30:15.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a kraüsen of 8cm thick, then your yeast is certainly in good health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also hydrated yeast sometimes even 24 hrs beforehand. 5 hours is not a problem, I would surmise that the yeast is in or just behind the lag phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose that in this case the low temperature might be the cause. You pitched at 22° C, which made the yeast active. But you put it in a relatively cool chamber, so the yeast calmed down and then adjusted to the new temperature, then began fermenting again because there were still many sugars in solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T08:30:15.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25036" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25038" CreationDate="2020-06-12T17:21:38.227" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm gathering equipment on the cheap to start all grain brewing and looking at options for an HLT. A rectangular 48 quart cooler is about half the price as the customary 10 gallon Igloo everyone uses on Youtube. Anyone ever used one of these for an HLT? How'd it work out for you? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastEditorUserId="18216" LastEditDate="2020-06-12T18:34:57.030" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T12:56:36.257" Title="48 quart rectangular cooler as an HLT?" Tags="|equipment|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25041" CreationDate="2020-06-15T15:49:30.037" Score="4" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a line cleaning socket for a Cornelius keg fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've worked in the pub trade (UK) for more years than I care to remember so know how bars are set up and I am familiar with line cleaning etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I have performed line cleaning, there has always been a socket on the wall that I have connected the keg coupler too. does anyone know where I can find a wall socked for a Cornelius keg, ball post socket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, this is a wall mounted OUT socked from a Cornelius keg, however before I make my own, I wondered if anyone knew of a socket available to purchase online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16855" LastActivityDate="2020-06-18T09:41:51.930" Title="Wall sockets for Cornelius kegs line cleaning" Tags="|equipment|sanitation|cleaning|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25036" CreationDate="2020-06-16T12:56:36.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shape of the cooler doesn't matter much.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a rectangular one for my mash, given the same insulation, they will hold the temperature the same.  After 1.5 hour, I lose only 1 or 2°C (and I open the lid to mix the mash at least once).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Round tuns are practical since the lid can be screwed, they are more vertical and may have less dead space in the bottom (depending on how high is the valve location).  Other than that, it is not worth paying extra money IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T12:56:36.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-17T23:48:45.363" Score="2" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting my first homebrew this weekend. I have almost everything that I need, I'm just missing nutrients for my yeast. I'm living in a country where this isn't readily available (In fact only baking yeast is available here) so I'm looking for substitutes of nutrients for my yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of peeling some pineapple or grape skins and adding them in throughout the fermentation process since I read that yeast grows on the skins naturally, is my logic right with this?&#xA;I understand that being my first brew without the specific ingredients will have interesting results, but happy to push through!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&#xA;Current setup is 4L of Apple Cider using 100% apple juice with no preservatives, only addition is vitamin C. Also using cane sugar and baking yeast.&#xA;Aiming to ferment for approx 10-15 days&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18329" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-06-19T14:16:02.493" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T15:07:40.680" Title="Can I Complete A Cider Homebrew Without Nutrients While Keeping A Decent Flavour?" Tags="|cider|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25044" CreationDate="2020-06-18T09:10:47.720" Score="3" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;While waiting for the Foundry to get back in stock, I found a scratch-n-dent sale on a 5 gallon pot on amazon and decided to give an extract a try while waiting. Extract brewing seems to have it's own specific pitfalls and a couple tips have stuck in my mind from various places that aren't mentioned in the brew instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanitize the top-off water going into fermenter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add LME at end of boil (-15 mins)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any reason not to add the LME at the &amp;quot;end&amp;quot; of the boil? Seems to be to help prevent scorching. Also, how do you go about santizing the top-off water? Only reasonable thing I can think of is to boil it the night before and let it sit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2020-06-18T19:30:46.850" Title="Sanitizing top-off water?" Tags="|fermentation|extract|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25037" CreationDate="2020-06-18T09:35:26.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pub/bar cellaring sites stock cleaning sockets but the cornelius keg is only used in homebrewing as far as I'm aware so your best bet is to speak to cornelius directly: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.corneliusbeer.com/en/product/cleaning-socket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.corneliusbeer.com/en/product/cleaning-socket&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively try homebrewing sites such as MaltMiller or BrewUK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you recreate a proper line cleaning solution as used in bars, let me just say as someone who also worked in the pub trade in the UK and now homebrews I found that the following homemade solution to cleaning lines is easy. You have to go line to line to clean so it doesn't work in a typical pub environment due to the number of lines to clean, but when I have a maximum of 2 lines to clean it's simpler and easier. I don't imagine you're going to have 14 lines to clean in one go or are walking up and down from cellar to bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method I've used in homebrewing is as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy 2 small pressurised cleaning bottles. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://a1barstuff.co.uk/5ltr-beer-line-cleaning-bottle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://a1barstuff.co.uk/5ltr-beer-line-cleaning-bottle.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark 1 as water only and use the other for line cleaning solution such as pipeline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the line cleaning bottle for line cleaning. Go from line to line and pull through as normal. Use the water bottle for rinsing out when clean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bottles are made for proper kegs rather than cornelius so your same dilemna will apply as before, so you will still need to talk to cornelius about getting the correct socket to fit to the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastEditorUserId="3032" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T09:41:51.930" LastActivityDate="2020-06-18T09:41:51.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25040" CreationDate="2020-06-18T15:44:26.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not exactly a veteran myself but I have done a number of extract brews with a partial boil as you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Latest guidelines for such partial boils don't typical call for pre-sanitizing the top-off water.  Modern tap water is apparently &amp;quot;clean enough&amp;quot;.  The pre-boiled method you describe is the only alternative I am aware of.  The other is to add all the top off water just after end of boil, the mixing with the near boiling hot partial boil wort apparently does the sanitizing for you. I usually cool first, then top-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for when to add LME, it depends on the recipe. Most extracts I have done call for LME added at start of boil, with some occasionally adding more LME near then end as you call out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17990" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T18:59:37.023" LastActivityDate="2020-06-18T18:59:37.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25040" CreationDate="2020-06-18T19:12:47.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never boil my top-off water, because if it is good enough to drink, it is good enough to make beer. You can do it if you like, but I don't consider it mandatory.   Also, I sometimes top-off with bottled water (already treated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding LME, I usually follow the recipe instructions, but boiling LME (or DME) can cause a caramel-like flavor and increase the color (mailard reaction).  The reason to boil is mostly to sanitize it, but it comes sterile when you buy it, so it is not useful unless it is part of the recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-06-18T19:12:47.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25040" CreationDate="2020-06-18T19:30:46.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You ALWAYS want to sanitize your top off water if you are getting it from tap. Bottled water is not necessary but recommended. Additionally, you need to get rid of the chloramines as they will give you off flavors. Adding a campden tablet will aid in that. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/articles/removing_chloramines_from_water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.morebeer.com/articles/removing_chloramines_from_water&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent scorching of the LME, add it off heat and completely dissolve it, then proceed with a standard boil. The LME should be in there the whole time for most recipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2020-06-18T19:30:46.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24995" CreationDate="2020-06-19T06:50:28.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consistent SG readings but more activity, maybe it's physics.&#xA;The difference in air temperature can take a while to translate into liquid temperature. An increase of a few degrees C might not be apparent in the liquid right away, but as the temperature increases, any dissolved CO2 will want to move out of solution, resulting in an increase in pressure = more bubbles. Of course, this will be exacerbated if you move the fermenter around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18333" LastActivityDate="2020-06-19T06:50:28.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25039" CreationDate="2020-06-19T14:22:29.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to add any nutrients.  I don't use nutrients in any of my ciders and they turn out fantastic.  I wouldn't add Vitamin C either.  Or even cane sugar, unless you want to make a very strong wine-like product.  No additions are needed, just the juice and yeast are all you really need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to add some wild character from grape skins or fruits, I would suggest including these early in the fermentation, either right up front at same time as you add your other yeast, or at least within the first ~36 hours.  This will give the wild yeasts a good fighting chance at making an impact on the final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final word on fermentation time: You say you want a product within 10-15 days.  This is not a good attitude!  At that point, the cider will still be fermenting and will be extremely hazy and taste like yeast.  To make really good cider, patience is a requirement!  I find that a good cider isn't ready until AT LEAST 5-6 weeks, and longer is better.  Often I will leave my ciders alone in the fermenter for several months before drinking.  They come out cleaner and crystal clear given enough time.  That is how I like it.  If you enjoy drinking yeast, then that's fine.  But also if you will be bottling, be very careful as the earlier you bottle, the more likely the bottles might gush or explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and enjoy your new hobby!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-06-19T14:22:29.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27046" CreationDate="2020-06-19T16:30:18.093" Score="4" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;New here. I've been reading up on transferring from fermenter to keg (or secondary FM) and the associated concerns with introducing oxygen into the beer. IPA styles in particular seem to run the risk of completely loosing their hop profile if any oxygen is introduced. Then there's the whole concept of open fermentation and what's going on with oxidation there but that's probably another discussion in itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than taste tests, is there any way, (similar to a pH strip maybe?) to test beer for oxidation? I'd like to try some different recipes but it would be nice to know if something I don't like was screwed up by my own doing (dry-hopping/transfer/gawd-dont-secondary) or if the recipe just isn't my style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2023-04-24T08:44:31.423" Title="Any way to test for oxidation in beer?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|oxidation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-20T19:01:44.657" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m doing a porter, went through all steps and got to pitching the yeast in the bucket. After only a few hours my fermenter seriously bubbled over. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18337" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-06-21T13:19:34.123" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T12:59:24.097" Title="Fermenter foaming over" Tags="|yeast|krausen|pitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24994" CreationDate="2020-06-21T06:45:20.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is a little vague, but I think I know what you are getting at. The smoothness you refer to is about biological, chemical, and physical control of oxidation which is impacted from the very beginning, through fermentation, as much as it is by ageing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For beer, Kunze describes ageing as resulting from oxidation of products from various reactions. Amino acids degrade to aldehydes (carbonyl functional groups). Given time and appropriate conditions, yeast will make use of sugars as well as the aldehydes and turn them into various types of alcohols. These compounds produce flavours ranging from what Kunze describes as bread-like, wet cardboard, and caramel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For beer, the choice of grains and whatnot, the water chemistry, the physical heat control, etc. determine the type and amount of amino acids and fatty acids that will have to be contended with by the yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason we ferment is to get the yeast to eliminate the carbonyls we don't want. We age beer and wine to allow further degradation/conversion into the colours, aromas, and flavours we do want. This relies on the physical and environmental conditions (time, oxygen, temperature, water chemistry) as well as the biological conditions (ingredients, yeast, bacteria, fungus etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same goes for wine where oxidation can convert ethanol through a series of reactions to produce acetylaldehydes which impart wonderful colours, aromas, and flavours. We don't want to undo the hard work and time the yeast has already spent scrubbing out the poor-tasting aldehydes by introducing oxygen (airlocks for the win!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18338" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-06-21T13:27:22.503" LastActivityDate="2020-06-21T13:27:22.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25053" CreationDate="2020-06-22T21:05:38.777" Score="0" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a new home brewer, I've been reading up on posts regarding things that can go wrong during a brew and how to fix them. For example, if I have understood correctly, stuck fermentation may require extra yeast to get things going again. Now, Murphy's law dictates the local brew shop will be closed when/if this happens. I am thinking it might make sense to keep a couple packets of Safale 05 (seems to be a general option for the few kits I've looked into) in the freezer just in case. Are there any other supplies that might make sense to keep an extra one of them around? I'm not thinking glass carboy here simply because of the cost but simple $5 things (airloc) that are just a few bucks that you wouldn't want to wait a week to get from Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T20:36:59.227" Title="Any supplies I should I have some &quot;extra&quot; of?" Tags="|equipment|first-time-brewer|problems|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25054" CreationDate="2020-06-23T14:05:31.047" Score="1" ViewCount="643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just started making cider, and after 12 hours of reading I came up with a plan, but I need reassuring what should I do next:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's nearly constantly &lt;strong&gt;25°C&lt;/strong&gt; in my flat (where I brew),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I used &lt;strong&gt;unfiltered&lt;/strong&gt; apple juice from the store&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bought &lt;strong&gt;yeast, yeast nutrient, pectic enzyme&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After &lt;strong&gt;6 days&lt;/strong&gt;, only &lt;strong&gt;small bubbles&lt;/strong&gt; are visible on the side of the &lt;strong&gt;5 liter, airlocked demijohn&lt;/strong&gt;. It's &lt;strong&gt;very cloudy&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also started fermenting the left over apple juice (one liter) in a &lt;strong&gt;PET bottle&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added some sugar&lt;/strong&gt; to reach a bit higher alcohol percent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Used hacked together airlock made from a balloon and a straw. It &lt;strong&gt;doesn't fully seal it&lt;/strong&gt; sadly, so supposedly oxygen is slowly getting in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 6 &lt;strong&gt;days, it reached the same state as previously mentioned.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a second jug, so &lt;strong&gt;I can't secondary ferment&lt;/strong&gt; them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is: what should I do know?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can I &lt;strong&gt;continue the primary&lt;/strong&gt; fermentation for like &lt;strong&gt;3 weeks&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And after that I can bottle them, put some priming sugar and sweetener in the bottles,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And then wait 2 weeks before consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Or should I wait &lt;strong&gt;only a few more days&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bottle them, add sugar, sweetener,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;and then wait 2 + 3 weeks before consumption?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which way will result more likely in a clearer, better cider?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that I can wait more, but I read that it's enough if I don't want to increase the quality further. (I'm a bit impatient with my first brew)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a feeling, that I should bottle the &amp;quot;semi-airlocked&amp;quot; PET bottle soon, so &lt;strong&gt;I can minimize the contact with oxygen.&lt;/strong&gt; Regarding the airlocked demijohn, I don't really know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What should I do?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18346" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T12:58:12.850" Title="What should I do after the primary fermentation of my cider?" Tags="|cider|first-time-brewer|brewing|cloudy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25050" CreationDate="2020-06-23T18:35:44.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An extra airlock isn't a bad idea, but I'd also recommend having a bucket and some sort of tubing/equipment for a blowoff tube setup.  There seem to be a lot of ways people set this up, and it's nice to be able to swap out the airlock for a blowoff tube (I actually have a disassembled airlock with some tubing attached that I keep in a bucket for this purpose).  This can also just be a nice starting state for a fermentation if you're at all unsure if you have enough headspace in your fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned, extra yeast is good to have.  I think some people use US-05 and others use champagne yeast for this if they really want to be sure that they clear out any remaining fermentable sugars.  Or just keep on hand a couple packets whatever the cheapest yeast you can find is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people also recommend having an extra hydrometer since some people seem prone to breaking them, though I haven't really had any problems with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having some extra DME on hand can be useful too, for making yeast starters, priming bottles, making last minute gravity adjustments, or even making a mini batch with some extra hops and yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For kegging it can be nice to have some extra hose clamps and/or keg fittings.  And maybe a bit of extra tubing as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for what it's worth, it nice to have a thermometer and scale in your kitchen just in case they're useful for brewing (and loads of other things).  Buying an extra scale probably isn't necessary, but having a back-up thermometer can be nice, just in case something goes wrong with the one you're using for brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2020-06-23T20:36:59.227" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T20:36:59.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25052" CreationDate="2020-06-24T12:58:12.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would, perhaps ignoring some of the limitations you've posted - fermented it for a longer period (primary fermentation). Cider needs both fermentation and conditioning. I would also make a new functioning air lock as that is the crux regardless, a simple hack would then be a blow-off tube (a tightly sealed tube where the other end is submerged).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have no methods of measuring the gravity of the cider (i.e. how much sugar has the yeast consumed) then bottling too soon can create a nasty situation where the bottles blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So strategy one, including improved air lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I would &amp;quot;cold crash&amp;quot; your cider before bottling, it sounds like your fermentation vessel would fit in a fridge. A couple of days in the fridge would make a lot of the sediments settle out and give a much clearer cider before bottling. Then add sweetener and sugar in the bottles and leave the bottles warmer again for bottle carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15029" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T12:58:12.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25048" CreationDate="2020-06-24T12:59:24.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not particularly worrying. If temperature is under control and yeast amount is right, then head space as others say - as well as using a blow-off tube rather than a traditional air lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15029" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T12:59:24.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25061" CreationDate="2020-06-25T14:19:57.770" Score="1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a new 5 gallon batch of hefeweizen. Measured OG was 1.054, I then racked to secondary fermentation after a couple of weeks, the last week of that had had no visible yeast activity. Measured gravity at that point was 1.014. Based on back of the enveloppe calculations, I am looking at an apparent attenuation of 74% which is a bit on the low side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am debating whether it is good enough to bottle or whether I need to throw in some US-05 to clean it up.&#xA;Given that it is racked to secondary, and has been for a couple of weeks already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Is it good enough for bottling as is?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;2- Is it too late to add more yeast?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3- Should I add more yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for opinions to decide. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17990" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-06-25T17:40:04.360" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T17:49:20.953" Title="Low attenuation beer good enough for bottling" Tags="|fermentation|beer|final-gravity|attenuation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-25T14:43:03.483" Score="2" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started a cider brew one week ago and when taking the gravity today it was 1.000, the starting gravity was 1.065 which according to the calculators online I have an abv of 8.5% (ish). Is it possible for my cider to have reached this abv in under a week. The bubbles where coming fast and hard all week but have died down over the last 2 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brew itself is 25 litres with 20 litres of it being apple juice from concentrate 4 litres rhubarb and apple juice and litre a strawberry and rhubarb syrup (frozen strawberries and canned rhubarb reduced down with 1kg of sugar). I used M02 yeast from mangrove jack and 1tsp of fanmax bio yeast nutrient. Finally I added diced stalks of rhubarb to the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tasted the brew today and there is not a hint of any of the other flavours just tastes like hard cider (not really complaining just disappointed) and smells very very lightly sulfury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18352" LastEditorUserId="18352" LastEditDate="2020-06-25T14:59:38.190" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T16:32:57.573" Title="Can cider ferment in under a week?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|cider|fruit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25063" CreationDate="2020-06-25T15:01:02.803" Score="2" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been giving brewing my own kombucha a try, following &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.liveeatlearn.com/the-simple-guide-to-kickass-kombucha&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this guide&lt;/a&gt;. It's been going well, and I've made it all the way through my first batch! \o/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one bit where I differed from the guide was in the last fermentation, where I also add in the flavors: instead of using flip top fermentation bottles, I used mason jars. I did this because I didn't want the final bottles I'd drink from to have bits of fruit, etc., so I'd do the flavoring and final fermentation in the mason jar, and then strain the actual kombucha into individual bottles for drinking. By doing this, though, I think I lost a good bit of the carbonation from the last fermentation... which is not ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any ways to effectively rebottle kombucha without much loss in carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18351" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T02:40:18.783" Title="How can I rebottle my kombucha without losing carbonation?" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|kombucha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25058" CreationDate="2020-06-25T17:49:20.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general rules I used to know if yeast is done, is 3 consecutive days with the same gravity measure.  At that point, you can conclude that it is done or stuck, but with a FG of 1.014, it seems low enough to me to call it done.  People do not always reach the attenuation written on the yeast package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is never too late to add yeast, but adding more yeast serves no purpose if there is no more sugar to convert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure your gravity for 3 days, and if it stays the same, you can bottle.  You can always wait a few days to let the yeast flocculate and clear the beer a little more if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T17:49:20.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-25T21:14:53.343" Score="2" ViewCount="574" Body="&lt;p&gt;A home brewing group I am with has a Grainfather Glycol Chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been working fine until yesterday. We turned it on and we had an issue. The pump is working and circulating but the chiller is not. We have checked the connections and made sure we had enough glycol, etc. Yet the chiller doesn't work. We had a batch on a couple of weeks ago and it was working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We thought about cleaning the connectors, which we'll look at this weekend. Also thought about overriding the chiller to see if that forces the chiller to act. Even if it doesn't solve the problem long term it may help to narrow down the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone had any similar experience or ideas on what may be causing the issue and what their solution was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We haven't contacted Grainfather yet but we are based in the UK so I suspect the response won't be the fastest right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18353" LastEditorUserId="18353" LastEditDate="2020-06-29T12:13:12.303" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T12:13:12.303" Title="Grainfather Glycol Chiller" Tags="|troubleshooting|chilling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25060" CreationDate="2020-06-26T02:40:18.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely.  Add a maximum of 1/2 teaspoon of sugar per 12-ounce bottle, or 1 teaspoon per 22-ounce bomber, etc.  Then allow another &amp;quot;final&amp;quot; fermentation within the sealed bottles for another week or two.  After the first batch you can adjust the amounts of sugar to suit your desired level of carbonation.  And you can also substitute honey or a greater amount of fruit juice, etc.  In the end you're going to want to add some sugar from some source in order to keep fermentation in the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T02:40:18.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25069" CreationDate="2020-06-28T15:25:51.170" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;We can have the same ABV with diferents gravities. My reading for watermelon wine is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1.064&#xA;0.997&#xA;=8.79%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I found some recipes with readings like this to the same type of wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1.090&#xA;1.023&#xA;=8.79%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would like to understand the influence in the final product of starting with an higer vs lower gravity. I know the first example will be more &lt;em&gt;dry&lt;/em&gt; than the second. What can we conclude more from the readings above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18358" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T01:49:48.547" Title="Impact of different gravities for the same ABV" Tags="|fermentation|wine|specific-gravity|alcohol-content|fruit-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25059" CreationDate="2020-06-28T16:32:57.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you are using wine yeast it is common for a ferment to finish in a week. I've had commercial sized batches of grapes (multiple tons) finish in 7 days depending on how hot it is and the type of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sulfur smell may or may not dissipate with time. I would rack off the yeast soon as that can sometimes contribute to hydrogen sulfide production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T16:32:57.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25065" CreationDate="2020-06-29T08:01:40.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With only two data points, the only thing you can conclude with any real confidence is that there is simply more dissolved sugar in a beverage with a higher finishing gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above example (again it's only &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; data points), it could be suggesting this particular yeast tops-out at around 8.8% AbV, because the second set of readings still retain quite a lot of residual sugar the yeast could &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; convert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher the concentration of sugars, the yeast has a more difficult job of processing, since the sugar puts osmotic pressure on the yeast's cell walls.  So the yeast &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; have become stressed.  Stressed yeast tends to produce more esters, so we could also infer that the first sample would have less yeast-produced flavours than the second one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast pitched into the second batch may have had very low vitality or viability, and/or simply gone dormant before the ferment was finished.  This could also happen in the ferment became very cold, or very hot (hot enough to kill the yeast I mean).  If some of these extremes happened, the yeast may also have undergone &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autolysis_(wine)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;autolysis&lt;/a&gt; producing (awful) yeast-extract like flavours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was a beer using &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; brewers' yeast, and the gravity dropped really low, say close to 1.000 one would be wary to check that the batch had not been infected by another yeast (like Brettanomyces), wild yeast, or some bacterial culture that is able to convert the larger complex sugars that brewers' yeast cannot process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T08:01:40.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19111" CreationDate="2020-06-29T08:08:39.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sugar will be consumed - up to a point.  I have no experience making orange wine with cane sugar, but yeast can only convert just so much sugar to alcohol before the alcohol level becomes self-toxic.  The amount depends on the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used this technique to great advantage making mead, where simply varying the about of honey in the ferment takes you from a dry mead, through semi sweet, to &amp;quot;dessert wine&amp;quot; like sweetness.  This is how the &amp;quot;Joe's Ancient Orange&amp;quot; mead works so well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I'm really guessing, but I'd reckon that a super-dry orange sugar-wine would be &lt;em&gt;nasty&lt;/em&gt;, whereas an orange sweet dessert-wine would be delicious.  So the recipe calls for a lot of sugar to push it into sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe consider adding a generous amount of of yeast nutrients to keep the yeast going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T08:08:39.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25065" CreationDate="2020-06-30T01:49:48.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see two possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The second recipe has an unrealistic final gravity and most likely isn't finished fermenting.  Fruit has very simple sugars, with final gravities typically 0.992 to 0.999 regardless of yeast strain used in most cases, so unless there was a more complex sugar added, or an unfermentable sugar like lactose or maltodextrin, the second recipe likely still has a ways to go and if bottled at that point would likely gush or explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that a yeast with very low alcohol tolerance was used in the second batch.  Some yeasts will quit fermenting at about the 9% mark, and this is close to what was achieved.  If this is the case, the wine could be bottled with low risk of refermentation in the bottle.  Better to be safe and allow an extra 2-3 weeks or longer prior to bottling just to ensure the gravity doesn't fall any lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T01:49:48.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25070" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-30T13:29:17.103" Score="2" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning out a Saison and trying to hit the traditional guideline numbers.... I need to get the East Final Gravity down below 1.008 - I am currently way too high. The changes I keep thinking to make aren't changing things how I was hoping and was hoping for advice to get the correct adjustment. Was going to use Wyeast #3724 Belgian Saison. Currently have a 1.061 Est OG and 1.015 Est FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grain Bill is currently:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;6 lb. Belgian Pils&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;2 lb. Belgian Pale&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;2 lb. Belgian Wheat&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1 lb. German Munich&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;0.5 lb. Smoked Malt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips or advice welcome - thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18363" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T12:34:44.417" Title="Lowering Est FG before Brew" Tags="|all-grain|final-gravity|saison|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-04T14:37:00.123" Score="3" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time brewing hard cider.&#xA;My cider is a yellow/brown colour, smells and tastes a bit sour (think apple cider vinegar), is still sweet but also has these funky bits floating ontop.&#xA;I juiced the apples myself, sterilised equipment but did not use a Camden tablet.&#xA;I used Safale-05 yeast.&#xA;It has been fermenting in a fermenter with an airlock for 1 month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? What should it look/taste like?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZgApR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZgApR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18372" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T13:31:02.630" Title="Sour tasting cider with bits floating on top" Tags="|cider|sour|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25070" CreationDate="2020-07-05T09:39:20.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have consulted the Dutch homebrew forum, and apparently this yeast is indeed finicky, and also ends rather high for a Saison, with an apparent attenuation of 75% to 80%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first it will ferment rather well, then it will stall. Keep up the temperature and make sure that you have the possibility to rouse the yeast by swirling the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your mash, try to mash long, more than 60 minutes, at around 64/65° C (good advice in the comments too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to have a problem with FG, then I advise to use Mangrove Jack's M29 French Saison, dry yeast. Never had a problem with, ferments in a couple of days down to 1.000, and also makes a very clear beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2020-07-05T15:20:10.700" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T15:20:10.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25074" CreationDate="2020-07-05T13:31:02.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks normal.  Tartness is normal.  Soon it should begin to clear, maybe another couple of weeks.  Be aware however that every time you open the lid and look at it like this, your are inviting wild bacteria and yeast including the acetobacter which causes vinegar to enter into the cider to sour and/or funkify it.  My advice is to cool it down, into the 50s Fahrenheit if you can (or 12-13 C), and then just leave it alone for at least another 2-3 weeks, before looking at it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T13:31:02.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25084" CreationDate="2020-07-06T17:19:47.780" Score="1" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting my first attempt at wine-making, so please pardon the noob question....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two 6 gallon buckets with airlocks. But the &amp;quot;Winexpert&amp;quot; kit I've got recommends 8 gal for primary, and 6 for secondary. Actually, the box says &amp;quot;no less than&amp;quot; 8, while the enclosed instructions say &amp;quot;up to 8&amp;quot;, and say to top off the bentonite+juice to 6 gal with water at the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am a little confused over managing the volumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: Why the extra 2 gallons of space? Is there that much expansion during primary fermentation? Or is this just to allow for foaming without making a mess? Can I use my 6 gallon bucket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: Should air be able to get in during the primary fermentation? I gather that some people ferment with just a cloth or loose plastic cover, while others use a real lid and airlock.  I saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4895/primary-fermentation-of-wine&quot;&gt;primary fermentation of wine&lt;/a&gt;, which seems to suggest that opening to stir adds enough oxygen. Am I understanding this right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: When siphoning to the secondary, I'm going to have well under 6 gallons because of the lees left behind, right? But I've found conflicting advice on whether/how to top off the secondary container. Is the main reason to do that, excluding Oxygen? What else do I need to know about for this? I did see &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7684/fermenter-headspace-suitable-and-cheap-containers-for-split-batches&quot;&gt;Fermenter Headspace; Suitable (and cheap!) Containers for Split Batches&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10587/can-i-use-a-5-gallon-carboy-for-a-3-gallon-batch-of-wine&quot;&gt;Can I use a 5 gallon carboy for a 3 gallon batch of wine?&lt;/a&gt; suggests that extra head space in the secondary isn't very important?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18373" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T23:22:25.787" Title="Wine fermentation containers and headspace" Tags="|wine|secondary-fermentation|primary-fermentation|headspace|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25080" CreationDate="2020-07-07T09:46:26.760" Score="2" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time brewing. I have a IPA in a 6.5 gallon bucket fermenter with US-05 pitched into it. I've got the fermenter in the basement and temperature probe taped to the side of the bucket. Ambient room temperature is around 72°F. The temperature of the probe has been slowly climbing and is at 73.5°F (23°C) this morning. Going on 48 hours since pitching. Steady pulse of bubbling every half second or so in the blowoff container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I try and cool the bucket somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-07-08T14:56:52.653" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T07:37:13.110" Title="48 hours into ferment. Fermenter temperature is 73°F. Should I cool it?" Tags="|fermentation|beer|fermentation-temperature|first-time-brewer|ipa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-07T10:34:45.687" Score="2" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just (as in 2 days ago) laid down a gingerbeer (kit build - first time) - est finished ABV should be 4.0%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 x Brigalow Gingerbeer Packs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 kg Dextrose mono&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;43L Sterile Water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 packets dried yeast (var unknown)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 packets yeast activator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start temp 25°C&#xA;Checked seals, etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No apparent activity through airlock after 48hrs. Got concerned and drew a bottom sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brew is &amp;quot;spritzy&amp;quot; with plenty of entrained CO2 - no off notes on taste or smell - but no yeast crust on the top of the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried the ferment has stalled - but there seems to be too much gas for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would adding more yeast or some extra yeast activator be worth a shot? Or is it possible that the yeast is more like a wine yeast and just doesn't produce a crust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17858" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-07-07T10:47:51.740" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T21:10:59.707" Title="Stuck ferment - gingerbeer - or just strange yeast?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|ginger-beer|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25078" CreationDate="2020-07-07T10:51:19.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would set the fermenter into a tub with 2 inches water in the bottom, and drape a wet t-shirt over the fermenter.  This will cool it off just by about 5 degrees F, which might keep it under 70 F.  To avoid potential fusel alcohols and unusual esters and phenols, you don't want it to get much hotter, so this method is ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T10:51:19.343" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25079" CreationDate="2020-07-07T10:54:33.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have &amp;quot;spritz&amp;quot;, which is carbon dioxide gas, then you have fermentation.  No need for concern.  Ginger beer often will not have the yeast krausen layer on top, the yeast remains suspended within the beer itself until it is finished and then will settle out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need now is patience.  Just leave it alone.  All is well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers, good luck, good health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T10:54:33.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25078" CreationDate="2020-07-09T07:37:13.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Living in Australia I have in the past found it necessary to cease brewing in the summer due to high temperatures. This summer just gone I discovered a solution by way of a newly released dry yeast, Kveik by Lallemand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the manufacturer's website, this yeast supports brewing between 25-40degC (77-104degF). I used it while the ambient temperature in my cellar was 26degC, resulting in a brewing temperature of 28-29degC. Resultant ale was of excellent quality. Independent experiments reported on another site indicate the minimum brewing temperature is below 20degC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No more high temp blues for me! Kveik will be my go to yeast in summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T07:37:13.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5906" CreationDate="2020-07-09T20:47:42.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I boil all the water before I add the malt extract hopped or un-hopped bottled water or tap water I then bring it to a quick Boil again sometimes add extra hops stir it until I get a creamy froth on the top.  I then put the entire sterilized covered boiling container in a sink full of ice and salt.  Then pour it into the fermenter put that in the fridge till the temp drops to 70 then pitch the yeast.  I have never noticed ruined hops and never get cidery ale or off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding cold water to the wort has ruined many batches of my ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am only doing 2 gallon batches though so this is easy to do.  It was not easy in the 6 gallon buckets I used to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18384" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-07-16T08:47:31.527" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T08:47:31.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25077" CreationDate="2020-07-09T23:22:25.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me answer your questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will need that 2 gallons of head space for foaming. Don't use a six gallon bucket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air is less of a concern during primary because of the volumes of CO2 produced but once the active fermentation has stopped, you need to be sealed in a carboy that is topped just a couple of inches from the bung.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want as little headspace as possible. Just and inch or two below the stopper in the carboy. If you can't fill a six gallon carboy, then get a five gallon one. Do not use a five gallon carboy for a 3 gallon batch for long term storage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T23:22:25.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1713" CreationDate="2020-07-11T03:44:14.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a professional chemist so I can't recommend any quantitative tests, but you could make a controlled subjective comparison against a package of purchased hops with known alpha acid content.&#xA;The goal is not an exact number but a relative bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Micro batches of a quart to 1/2 gallon size using either sugar water or a basic light malt extract, use your standard tap/filtered water to start and top off evaporation losses with distilled water. Quart(or liter) is the smallest I would go, even with this you need a mass balance with at least 0.002oz or 0.1g resolution for the dry hops to get better than +-10% measurement accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a light wort and lower IBU because it should make small changes in bitterness more obvious, require less total hops, and avoid some taster burnout/tolerance-drift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If starting with no baseline I would make three known standard batches of approximately 10, 20 and 40 ibu. As an example: 0.04 ounces of 6%aa hops in one quart of 1.040 wort boiled 60 minutes should be 21.5ibu, so then use .02, .04 and .08 ounces per quart to represent 3% 6% and 12%aa. Then make a batch with 0.04 ounces of the unknown hops. I see cultivated hops sold from 2% to 18% alpha acid but I expect random crosses or non-professional cultivation to clip the upper extreme, so you could start by assuming something between 4% and 8% alpha acid and adjust from there. (A bit like a binary search.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then taste test. After the initial test round you can blend the standards to get intermediate values and narrow the scope. If the unknown hops seem to be above &amp;quot;12%&amp;quot; standard then dilute the unknown sample by half,(and note that the original standards then become 6, 12 and 24%) or if below the &amp;quot;3%&amp;quot; standard brew up a new batch of the unknown hop at double strength.(and note that the original standards then represent 1.5, 3 and 6%) By diluting or doubling the strength of the unknown batch, rather than the comparison samples, you keep the total IBUs in a moderate range for best detection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option for hops under 3% is to ignore the alpha acid and use them for aroma only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is an addition to the post. An alternate, possibly more simple method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a single known 40 IBU sample. An unhopped wort.(also boiled) And a batch with the unknown hops, calculated to an assumed 40 IBU. What I mean by assumed is to just assume some an alpha acid percentage for the initial brewing calculation, and write it down. (There are many brewing calculators available for IBU so I won't explain that here.) Then compare and dilute the more bitter sample until the two samples match, recording the total dilution factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the unknown sample is &lt;strong&gt;less bitter&lt;/strong&gt; than the known sample: You need to &lt;strong&gt;dilute the &lt;em&gt;known&lt;/em&gt; sample&lt;/strong&gt;, and the alpha content of the unknown sample is &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; than your assumed percent. The fraction of known-hopped volume to total diluted volume is the multiplier for the assumed alpha in the unknown hops. example: 3 parts known-hopped wort diluted with 1 part unhopped wort is 3/4. If you had originally assumed 7% in your brewing calculation for the unknown sample then your actual alpha content is &lt;code&gt;7*(3/4)=7*0.75=5.25%&lt;/code&gt;(same as 1 part hopped plus .333 part unhopped, &lt;code&gt;7*(1/1.333)=7/1.333 or 7*0.75=5.25%&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the unknown sample is &lt;strong&gt;more bitter&lt;/strong&gt; than the known sample: You need to &lt;strong&gt;dilute the &lt;em&gt;unknown&lt;/em&gt; sample&lt;/strong&gt;, and alpha of the unknown is &lt;em&gt;greater&lt;/em&gt; than the your assumed percent. The fraction of total unknown-hopped plus unhopped divided by unknown-hopped is the alpha acid multiplier. Example: 3 parts unknown-hopped with 1 part unhopped wort is 4/3. If you originally assumed 7% in your brewing calculation for the unknown sample then your actual alpha content is &lt;code&gt;7*(4/3)=9.33%&lt;/code&gt; (this works even more easy with 1 part hopped and eg 0.333 part unhopped. &lt;code&gt;7*(1.333/1)=7*1.333=9.33&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of these methods will tell you much about beta acids, which are more important in dry hopping and lagering. You will not get essential oil content either, which is closely related to aroma, and while it can be measured quantitatively there are many qualitative elements and most home brewers don't bother to use the oil content in any calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18387" LastEditorUserId="18387" LastEditDate="2020-08-20T02:58:49.457" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T02:58:49.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-12T21:50:50.273" Score="1" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fermentation seems to have stopped too early. I don’t have much experience (mostly some wine and mead making failed attempts) or proper gear like a hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I did differently from the regular recipes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I didn’t add much sugar because I can’t stand sweet wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I may have added too much yeast, particularly as I was carefull not to wash the grapes to benefit from the natural yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I grossly manually squeezed the grapes, put the juice separately in a closed carboy with a fourth of the yeast, i put the wet must in an open air container in a mesh bag with 3/4 of the yeast and added some sugar to jump start it.&#xA;After a day, I started to see some activity, so the second day I squeezed dry the must and added that partially fermented juice to the rest of the juice (that also had started bubbling)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was expecting the primary fermentation to really start strongly, but nothing much is happening, not for the past several days, a tiny bit of gas, and the sediment are settling down...&#xA;It looks like the primary fermentation is over, but it can’t be, and the juice still smells like grape juice not like alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope the information I have given is enough for you to recommend a course of action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12357" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T16:32:23.670" Title="Stopped fermentation wine" Tags="|fermentation|first-time-brewer|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25029" CreationDate="2020-07-12T22:09:23.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely the “beer” reported by those news agencies was 80 proof (40% alcohol) made in a still. Likely not even a proper still but a converted pressure cooker... to call those moonshines “beer” is almost a joke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home brewing is safe, but not distillation from what I read, if you don’t know what you are doing, you could end up with very critical medical conditions, even blindness, even more so with “potato vodka”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best stay in the home brewing arena. Headaches or stomachaches can happen, with some bacteria’s but they are not common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I found the article you are referring to, or at least one of them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesouthafrican.com/news/couple-killed-homemade-beer-is-it-safe-to-drink-lockdown-2020/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;homebrew poisonings&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the first couple the article refers to mentions “high-alcohol proof beer”&#xA;Unless they had access to speciality “turbo” high alcohol yeast, which I deem highly unlikely in this context, their beer must have been distilled to be high proof&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the second couple discussed the article mentions that local home brewers often “add high octane fluid and other chemicals to add to the euphoric effects”....&#xA;Look no further, what amazes me is that any are still alive, not that some are dead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it goes on and mentions wood alcohol, methanol, and it’s deadly effects....&#xA;As far as I know the only way to get methanol poisoning is with bad distillation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an article from “experts” in the field concerning this issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.howtohomebrewbeers.com/2018/03/methanol-brewing-risks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Can I accidentally make methanol when home brewing beer?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12357" LastEditorUserId="12357" LastEditDate="2020-07-15T08:30:08.313" LastActivityDate="2020-07-15T08:30:08.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25086" CreationDate="2020-07-13T16:32:23.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long has it been in primary fermentation? We need some extra context about what the recipe is, and what strain of yeast you used. Once those questions are answered, I can help guide you towards a guess, but truly without a hydrometer, it would be really hard to determine the state of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I can clear up some of what you wrote&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn’t add much sugar because I can’t stand sweet wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding sugar to wine does not always lead to a sweet wine. This is heavily dependent on your yeast strain, health, and what your wine must composition and gravity is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may have added too much yeast, particularly as I was careful not to wash the grapes to benefit from the natural yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be almost impossible for you to add too much yeast. I'm talking about pitching &lt;em&gt;gallons&lt;/em&gt; of yeast slurry into a few gallons of wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some wine strains ferment notoriously slowly, especially as it approaches lower gravity. If you have not added any nutrients, I wouldn't count on even cracking open the primary fermenter for 6 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T16:32:23.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-14T17:46:06.393" Score="2" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a blow-out and lost about 1/4 of my wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I replace with water or just leave it alone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This blow-out happened on the second day in the carboy.  I replaced the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18401" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-07-16T08:43:51.283" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T08:45:55.910" Title="Should I Replace Blown Out Wort" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25090" CreationDate="2020-07-14T19:38:25.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best advice is to probably just leave it alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; want to get your volume back and have the materials on hand, you could potentially make a mini batch of the beer (thats enough volume to want to hop it) and dump it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long has it been since the initial yeast pitch? I'm not sure you'd want to pitch that much wort on a beer that's already mostly fermented. It probably wouldn't be catastrophic but you might get a weird flavor profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-07-14T19:38:25.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25094" CreationDate="2020-07-15T20:35:25.743" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a bulldog chocolate stout 'Easter brew' as per the instructions. 4.2kg of malt extract alone, 23L, one packet of dried yeast. OG 1058, the generic bulldog instructions just say get it to 1014 or below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything started fine just like my previous two brews, then after day 7, I can no longer hear bubbling (although I know fermentation can still continue and air can escape elsewhere). On day 10 I take a reading and it's at 1021. I wait until today (day 13), and take another reading, still 1021. Temp of the room has been consistently 20°c and I've even used a heat belt to warm the beer to 23°c to try and encourage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning I pitched a new packet of yeast meant for stouts, with half a tsp of yeast nutrient. I hear regular bubbling for an hour or so, which made me hopeful... it soon stopped. Just took a reading (9pm) and it's still 1021.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**edit. Just tested my hydrometer in water at 20°c and it reads 1006 (or just above). Could this be the reason it is reading high? Isn't it meant to be close to 1000?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going away tomorrow night... I need to either bottle it or leave it a week. Any advice? I obviously don't want bottle bombs, but equally it hasn't moved for 4 days. Could it be the supposed 'unfermentables' in the malt extract/chocolate? Altho it is meant to be 6% ABV and it is currently only around 5%. Tastes delicious though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a 5g packet of champagne yeast which I've heard could help although I've no idea, I'm new to brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18405" LastEditorUserId="18405" LastEditDate="2020-07-15T20:46:15.070" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T08:54:52.053" Title="Chocolate stout stuck at 1021" Tags="|bottling|stuck-fermentation|stout|final-gravity|high-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25090" CreationDate="2020-07-16T08:45:55.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not replace the wort, I would leave it as is, as this reduces risk of contamination, and does not dilute your wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add boiled and then cooled water, but it will reduce the gravity and reduce mouthfeel and abv of your final product. I would not recommend this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T08:45:55.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25092" CreationDate="2020-07-16T08:54:52.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your hydrometer is not reading correctly then yes this could be the issue. In tap water at 20 or 25 depending on calibration it should read 1000+/-0.5. If it is reading 1006 then it is a fair way off. Applying a correection factor of 1021 = 0006 =&amp;gt; 1015 which is pretty close to your target of 1014. I&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly suggest you get a new hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume this has fermented out, but if you are unsure rouse the yeast with a good old swirl of the FV. Then let it stand for 3 or 4 days and if you get 3 days of no/very few bubbles form the air lock, then it is more than likely finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T08:54:52.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25096" CreationDate="2020-07-16T18:10:49.047" Score="2" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my equipment in a town that is 2 hours from where I live, this last month is being hard to travel there too often so it is making very complicate the fermenting and bottling process. So I'm wondering if I can bring home the fermenter and continue the process here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I bring the wort without adding the Yeasts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I add the yeasts and then bring the fermenter?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18408" LastEditorUserId="18408" LastEditDate="2020-07-16T18:29:00.883" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T21:04:28.520" Title="Can I move the beer to another location while its fermenting?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|wort|fermenter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25095" CreationDate="2020-07-16T21:04:28.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either way should be fine. Although I'd probably pitch the yeast before moving it just to avoid having to have another thing to do after moving it. 2 hours probably isn't enough for it to start fermenting vigorously enough to even pop a plugged bung out so it won't cause problems as long as it's secured in your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just think of it as really good oxygenation of your wort. I have done this before a few times, and never had any issues. Just keep a little spray bottle of sanitizer in case your bung pops out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T21:04:28.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-19T09:04:48.317" Score="2" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a stalled cherry mead fermentation.This is my first attempt at brewing mead so am hoping I can get it going again.&#xA;I have used 3lbs honey to 2lbs cherries. My yeast is bulldog mead yeast and nutrient.&#xA;Everything seemed go fine according to the recipe until now. It has been fermenting for 12 days and has just stopped. I have checked with my hydrometer and get a reading of 0.996.&#xA;What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18414" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T18:48:00.283" Title="Stalled mead fermentation" Tags="|mead|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25097" CreationDate="2020-07-20T12:20:38.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like it may have fermented out. What was your target FG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T12:20:38.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-20T16:30:48.053" Score="1" ViewCount="9445" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will expired seamoss harm you? Is it harmful to use?? The gel still looks like when i bought it, and shows no&#xA;Signs of decay. But it’s about a week past the expiration date. Just wondering is it bad to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18416" LastActivityDate="2023-03-13T20:07:35.913" Title="Expired seamoss, need answers" Tags="|help|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25100" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-20T18:00:37.300" Score="1" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m new here, but wondering if any of you guys &amp;amp; Girls help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve been brewing for about a year and done over 20 brews of various different beers mainly PA’s and IPA’s using a Grainfather. For about 8 months beers were coming out consistently using everything, when it came to tap water, raw ingredients, same supplier, same sanitisers, grainfather cleaner, vessels for fermentation (plastic) and exactly the same cleaning methods. Here comes the bad bit I’ve recently done 4 brews all IPA’s 2 of which tasted strongly of chlorine no other issues, normal dizziness, colour, in 2 separate vessels for fermentation. Next brew was fine. I’m then thinking he’s out of the woods, to my horror I’ve just bottles the 4th batch and I’m back to square one the chlorine taste is back!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first 2 brews I dry hopped previously I tried out doing a batch of raspberry beer and thought even though I sanitised the hop sock maybe the raspberry’s did it and caused the strange taste. So for the 3rd I didn’t dry hop and hay presto issue gone! Thought for the 4th no hop sock to rid this problem forever but no it’s back and I’m mortified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s always after fermentation 14 days (usual period) that I allow before bottling, I then take the final ABV reading, have a little sip and Yuk, always taste the beer before fermentation no problem beer stored in London in cellar at near consistent temperature of 21 degrees&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please please please can anyone suggest anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jolly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18417" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T13:22:28.697" Title="Chlorine taste in 3 batches " Tags="|fermentation|bottling|water|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25097" CreationDate="2020-07-20T18:48:00.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your mead likely won't read much more below 0.996, that is pretty well fermented. It may dry out a tiny bit over another few weeks, but depending on your alcohol content in the mead the readings can get a bit finicky that low so I wouldn't expect much movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, 12 days is not very much and it's pretty early to even really start taking readings on it. A few more weeks will do it good for conditioning, however it's likely ~98% fermented out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T18:48:00.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25103" CreationDate="2020-07-21T08:46:49.647" Score="2" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;does anyone have any recipes that produces beer really cheaply. I have several slug traps in my garden to get rid of slugs/snails and I currently buy cheap beer from the shop, but it's a pain having to get 4 packs every week, it would be easier if i could just have a large container which I can fill my Slug Traps up from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for something that would cost £1.30 per Litre or less to produce and it doesn't have to taste nice or even be safe as it will be Not for Human Consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16855" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T16:01:12.587" Title="Brewing cheap beer for use in garden not drinking?" Tags="|beer|recipe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25102" CreationDate="2020-07-21T15:05:25.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what exactly attracts slugs to beer. I would try to find out what specifically that is and replicate that as it might be cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in general it would be quite hard for you to brew beer cheaper than than the cheapest beer you can buy. Rather, doing so would probably require you to have some equipment, buying which would negate any cost saving. If you value your time at any cost, I don't think you would ever come out ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, you could mill a pound of barley, soak it a few liters of water at 150F for 20 minutes, drop in 5 grams of hops, pull the grain and boil the wort for half an hour, cool it and pitch some cheap bakers yeast and make something akin to beer after a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said- I have no idea what the cost of ingredients are for you, and in any case I really doubt you can make beer much cheaper than buying really cheap beer. However this I'm familiar with costs in the US, so I can't be 100% positive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastEditorUserId="18396" LastEditDate="2020-07-21T16:01:12.587" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T16:01:12.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25099" CreationDate="2020-07-21T15:10:59.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit confused, I believe you're referring to what I know as Irish Moss- added to the boil and used to help clarify beer. In any case, it won't hurt you, I doubt it could expire..although it may be less effective after some amount of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;gel still looks like when i bought it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This threw me off. I'm not sure how your &amp;quot;seamoss&amp;quot; would be in gel form, typically brewing moss is dried crushed little brown chunks, or finely powdered. Is there a link or something you could point me to so I can understand better? Perhaps this is another additive that I'm simply not familiar with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T15:10:59.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25100" CreationDate="2020-07-21T17:36:30.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/14587/what-might-be-causing-a-chlorine-taste&quot;&gt;this homebrew question&lt;/a&gt; which already has some good answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to look at is your brewing water, and your cleaning and sanitizing solutions. If your brewing water is not highly chlorinated, and you are not using any cleaners solutions that would impart this flavor you may be getting phenolic off flavors as a result of an infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your example doesn't provide much information, but it seems the instance in which you did not interact with your beer during secondary you did not encounter this. This may lead one to believe you are introducing unwanted bacteria during your secondary fermentation phase (dry hopping, fruit additions, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would check to ensure all of your equipment is very clean and sanitized before use and as a precaution replace any plastic tubing or scratched plastic brewing vessels that may be infected with bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T17:36:30.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25108" CreationDate="2020-07-22T01:56:32.860" Score="3" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;While fermenting ginger beer I found out after 24 hrs of fermentation there's this white layer on the top of surface has grown.Is it safe to drink?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kpZyn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kpZyn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;white layer on top of beer while fermenting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18415" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T19:10:30.807" Title="Is my ginger beer safe to drink?" Tags="|fermentation|ginger-beer|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-22T17:48:15.357" Score="2" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would really appreciate some advice, at home I have Pilsner keg beer in my cellar at 12c (53f)it is being propelled with a gas cylinder containing 80%nitrogen and 20% carbon dioxide which is at 2.6 bar. The beer tap unit is a Pygmy brand has an integrated cooler which through a coil cools the beer to around 6c, and a pilsner type tap for creating proper Pilsner type beers. I am concerned about the way this is set up beer seems slightly under carbonated, head doesn’t last so long. Thank you all for any advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18419" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T20:13:33.220" Title="Set up of keg / beer tap at home" Tags="|keg|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25106" CreationDate="2020-07-22T19:10:30.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's safe to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could potentially have some type of wild bacteria (lacto perhaps), although depending on the brew ingredients this could just be some coagulated oils etc. However, it won't hurt you either way, although introduction of wild yeast could create some off-flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T19:10:30.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25107" CreationDate="2020-07-22T20:13:33.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll have to take what I say with a grain of salt, I am not very experienced in working with that high of a nitro mix, or serving at that temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised you're able to serve beer at 2.6 bar, that would be like a firehose out of one of my taps. Even for a nitro mix, I would think you'd still be under 2 bar. However, lighter carbonation is going to be a result of a nitro mix that high, especially after sitting for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd lower the keg temp if you can stand to, simply because that's already quite high PSI for serving and going above 2.6 seems nuts unless your tap lines are fifty feet long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to get some advice from the brewery or distributor that is more helpful. Other than that, I'd get a higher CO2 mix if you're typically drinking lagers. I find the nitro mouthfeel on lagers and light ales to be a little weird (creamy pale ale..no thanks!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T20:13:33.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-25T21:02:18.403" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an inexpensive little hydrometer in the goal of roughly measuring the alcohol and sugar content of my home-brewed kombucha. I didn't think too hard about the methodology of this process until it actually came with its instructions. In the end (if I understand it correctly), it seems that the process of estimating alcohol/sugar content via comparison of starting and ending specific gravities operates under the following idealized assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The starting measurement deviates from a specific gravity of 1.00 only to the extent that your starting liquid contains pure sucrose;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ending liquid (from which you take the ending measurement) deviates from the starting liquid only to the extent that a portion of the starting liquid's sucrose was converted into alcohol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding kombucha, I expect (1) is violated by the fact that a brew prior to first fermentation is—beyond sucrose—composed of a decent amount of the byproducts of brewed tea leaves, and also starter kombucha liquid, plus whatever not-pure-sucrose ingredients you add before 2F. But of more concern is the fact that &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/24830/how-to-know-if-kombucha-is-alcoholic&quot;&gt;the fermented alcohol in kombucha is largely converted into acetic acid&lt;/a&gt;, completely violating (2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If I assume the violation of (1) is of minor consequence&lt;/strong&gt;, then I'm thinking that the process could still be salvaged: We can assume we start out with a pure sucrose solution, some unknown amount of which gets converted into some unknown proportion of alcohol and acetic acid. But, that link above provides a means of measuring the exact amount of alcohol. So, if we know the specific gravities of pure sucrose, pure acetic acid, and pure alcohol, and we know the specific gravity of the starting liquid, ending liquid, plus how much alcohol is left in the end, we should be able to mathematically solve for the three unknown quantities (since we will have deduced three linear constraints).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I mistaken or overthinking any point of this? Is there an easier established way of estimating these things for kombucha?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18425" LastActivityDate="2020-08-25T13:03:05.263" Title="How can I ascertain ABV and/or Brix of a mixed fermentation using only specific gravity measurements?" Tags="|sugar|alcohol-content|kombucha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2020-07-25T22:40:12.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a Brut IPA that utilized White Labs ULTRA-FERM(liquid amyloglucosidase) and some champagne yeast(after primary fermentation) finish at 0.996. That means it had more alcohol volume than residual sugar volume I suppose?  The sample smelled and tasted amazing, currently waiting on the bottles to condition to have the final product.  I also used a small amount of the enzyme on another IPA and had it finish at 1.002.  Also a very good finished product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18426" LastActivityDate="2020-07-25T22:40:12.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25111" CreationDate="2020-07-26T12:31:58.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting question. To some extent, sugars are also converted to acetic acid in beer as a natural byproduct of fermentation (or...poor fermentation rather) but I suppose the amount is so insignificant we don't consider it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, I think you perhaps may be overthinking. Take a starting gravity measurement pre-fermentation, take a final gravity at the end. It perhaps won't be perfect, but you'll have an upper-bound for your ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using simple sugars like honey, dextrose or sucrose directly, you can pretty closely calculate the starting gravity if your tea based on volume of liquid &amp;amp; sguar. I would guess that kombucha will ferment out close to 1.000 given enough time unless you really sweeten it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could research what percentages of sugars are converted to different compounds in kombucha to decorate your math, but SCOBYs are quite a mixed bag, research would at best only provide you an estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-07-26T12:31:58.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25100" CreationDate="2020-07-27T13:22:28.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chlorine can only really come from your water or your cleaning process. Make sure you get filtered water or use a campden tablet in your water to get rid of chlorine before you brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are you cleaning your equipment? You should only be using chemicals like PBW and Starsan to clean and sanitize everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you absolutely sure it's chlorine? You might be confusing some other off flavors with chlorine. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bjcp.org/faults.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Check this list&lt;/a&gt; to make sure you have the right description&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T13:22:28.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-28T16:47:17.523" Score="2" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been 3 days of fermentation, I added beet root for colouring in the middle of fermentation. I used china globe grape (not that red), and after hours later the bubbles getting lesser&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18431" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T14:28:32.297" Title="Is it fine to add beet root for colouring in the middle of fermentation?" Tags="|wine|first-time-brewer|brewing|country-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-29T11:42:38.450" Score="1" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using an air distiller top table system.&#xA;I would like no ferment mash and just distill wine off the grocery store shelf.&#xA;But I need help,  with knowing how to make it happen.  There’s two videos that are available and both are not good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18434" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T21:05:50.533" Title="Air distiller - attempting to turn bottled wine into spirits" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25116" CreationDate="2020-07-29T14:28:32.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how their processed, adding beetroot to a fermenting wine must should not do anything to inhibit fermentation. Unless your beet must is full of sorbates or other preservatives, it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're mostly going for color, in the future I would add them towards the end of fermentation, as active fermentation seems to scrub out some of the bright colors, although it probably won't matter much when using beets in a wine must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T14:28:32.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-29T15:04:17.727" Score="3" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of making my third batch of &lt;code&gt;Kombucha&lt;/code&gt; and ingredients that I have used were&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Darjeeling Black Tea&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Darjeeling Green Tea&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SCOBY (of course)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note: i haven't flavored yet&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the issue is for my third batch I am a little worried about the health of my &lt;code&gt;SCOBY&lt;/code&gt; as when today (after exactly 7 days ) when I opened the jar to check on it, i suspected small green area near the circumferences of my &lt;code&gt;SCOBY&lt;/code&gt;. I am in a total dilemma now whether it's a &lt;code&gt;MOLD&lt;/code&gt; or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence if anyone could help me in identifying by looking at the following pictures then it would really help me in deciding whether to keep this batch or discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sUUkH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sUUkH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LZd8D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LZd8D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RxMAR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RxMAR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18436" LastEditorUserId="18436" LastEditDate="2020-07-29T16:14:17.547" LastActivityDate="2021-12-08T13:10:41.530" Title="Dilemma whether it is MOLD on kombucha with green section" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|kombucha|mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25122" CreationDate="2020-07-29T15:56:13.283" Score="3" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brewed my first two batches this month and still trying to figure this process out. I'm using a couple (similar to this, but maybe not the same material) &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/collections/buckets/products/translucent-6-5-gallon-bucket-drilled&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;buckets&lt;/a&gt; (with spigots) for fermenting. They worked really well and sealed great but after cleaning them, they both still smell like beer. I used Oxiclean and hot water the first time and removed anything that was stuck on the sides with a soft sponge. Thought that would do it but a few days later the bucket still smelled like fermenting wort. Weird. It looks spotless. I haven't scratched the inside as far as I know and the only things that have touched the inside are beer, the spigot, a sponge and oxiclean. I decided to duct tape over the bucket hole, disassemble the spigot entirely, and drop everything in a full bucket of Oxiclean and hot water for a few days to soak. Even after rinsing both buckets a few times, the smell has lessened but still quite noticeable. I'm thinking I may need to bleach it or find a stronger cleaner. Is the aroma issue just typical of plastic buckets or do I need to up my cleaning game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2020-07-30T19:51:59.633" Title="Fermenter bucket still a bit rank after several cleanings" Tags="|cleaning|fermenter|oxiclean|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25120" CreationDate="2020-07-29T16:16:41.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get a similar issue with the bucket I use for bottling (I use a glass carboy for fermenting). I am still using the bucket with the usual cleaning straight after use and sanitizing prior to use with no adverse issue to my batches so far. I'm not sure smell is something you necessarily need to worry about if your bucket is visibly clean (no visible deposits, no scratches,...) and you sanitize properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17990" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T16:16:41.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25120" CreationDate="2020-07-30T19:51:59.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its ok.  If you keep making beer in it the slight smell won't make your next beer smell any more of less beery than the last one.  Its plastic and it absorbs odors. Perfectly normal. There is no reason to think you need to get all that smell out of there.  Brew beer and if you start getting contamination due to microbial issues then you've got something to worry about.  Doesn't sound like you are there yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-07-30T19:51:59.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25139" CreationDate="2020-07-31T11:56:01.213" Score="1" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a refractometer for measuring my OG and FG for my home brews. Eventually, I found out about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wort correction&lt;/a&gt;. Are cider and wort too different to use the same correction tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T23:27:42.737" Title="Refractometer correction for cider making" Tags="|cider|gravity-reading|refractometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-31T16:36:27.460" Score="2" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a five gallon batch of an Irish Red, allowed it to go through primary fermentation for ten days, transferred it to secondary for 7 days, then bottled. The recipe called for 3.64 Oz of priming sugar. I accidentally put in 3.94 because I read the 9 wrong. Should I be concerned about bottle bombs or over-carbonation in regular, 12 oz. amber bottles? The actual volume at time of bottling was 4.8 gallons, not 5 gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18438" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-08-25T17:58:16.900" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T18:01:55.347" Title="Should I be worried about bottle bombs?" Tags="|bottling|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25126" CreationDate="2020-08-03T09:50:07.367" Score="0" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I'd try ferementing a gallon of pure apple juice (in the glass jug, straight from the store). About 11 days ago, I poured out some juice, added a cup of sucrose, shook it, pitched some cider yeast and stuck in the airlock.  3 days ago I checked it with a refractometer. It was at 6 brix. Today, it's at 6 brix again so hasn't changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;should I transfer this stuff into some growlers to age and for how long?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've read about backsweetening with apple juice concentrate to sweeten it but is this added before aging and How much do you add?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;methanol isn't an issue unless fermenting with apple chunks present, correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the refractometer correction for cider the same as beer (eg: 1.04)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is oxygen just as much of a concern (transferring, etc) with cider as it is with beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any other helpful tips for cider?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T19:39:24.090" Title="New to cider making and have some questions" Tags="|fermentation|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25125" CreationDate="2020-08-03T19:39:24.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;should I transfer this stuff into some growlers to age and for how long?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise against storing anything in growlers for the purpose of aging. They're too oxygen permeable and you have no good way to test out a small bit of the batch without opening and affecting a whole growler. However, cider gets better with age, and you should age it about as long as you can stand. At least a month after fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've read about backsweetening with apple juice concentrate to sweeten it but is this added before aging and How much do you add?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is really the tricky part. Backsweetening cider has a lot of caveats- unless you can keg in in which case you can cheat a bit. I'll assume you aren't kegging this. You can backsweeten your cider with anything, but if you add fermentable sugars, they &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; ferment unless you add enough sorbates to stop fermentation- and in doing so you will prevent your ability to carbonate your cider. Cider tends to ferment almost all of its sugars and will typically terminate around 1.000 given enough time. How much to add is really up to you, but ciders typically turn out much dryer than new brewers expect in flavor- it won't be anything like an Angry Orchard. It will be bone dry when fermentation is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;methanol isn't an issue unless fermenting with apple chunks present, correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had any concern of methanol in fermenting cider in any state- whether from store bought or fresh pressed with pulp. I don't think you could generate enough naturally to cause you ill effect unless you freeze distill it- and in that case the alcohol will probably hurt your brain more than the methanol content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the refractometer correction for cider the same as beer (eg: 1.04)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refractometer correction seems to be half math, have observation so it's really hard to answer this with confidence. It can vary from device to device, the starting gravity is relevant, and because the liquid density surely is different- I can't assert that it is the same. I can say that if you give your cider enough time, it will be basically 1.000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is oxygen just as much of a concern (transferring, etc) with cider as it is with beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxidation is still an issue- but not to the extent that is in beer. This is mostly personal experience..I can smell an oxidized beer a mile away. Ciders have to be pretty low quality, and horribly oxidized for me to pick it up. Obviously- prevent oxidation when possible but unless you're really abusing it I don't think you should worry too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;6&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any other helpful tips for cider?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardest part of making cider is also the most important: have patience. Even if you have a kegging system, making good cider takes time. Conditioning is massively important and will do wonders for your cider. I know bottling 1 gallon in 12oz bottles is a pain- but I really recommend it so you can see how much your cider changes over the course of a few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T19:39:24.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25130" CreationDate="2020-08-10T04:27:04.913" Score="2" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I let it soak in hot water solution overnight with LD Carlson Easy Rinse Cleaning Powder (I don't know what the actual ingredients are). I let it soak in StarSan solution overnight also. However, the plastic hose line is still spotty and cloudy. How can I clean the inside of the hose?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ANIGK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ANIGK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17375" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T21:28:10.147" Title="How do I clean the hose attached to my auto-siphon?" Tags="|cleaning|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25129" CreationDate="2020-08-10T12:47:40.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hosing is a pain to clean, no two ways about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a soak in oxygen wash (PBW, etc) and vigorous pumping won't do it, there are long, thin brushes they make for this purpose. However, it's advisable to just simply replace the hosing every so often, and keeping extra hosing around is always a good idea. It's probably the cheapest part of your brew system, and the $3 it takes to replace your hose will save you 10x that of losing an infected batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pumping hot water and/or brewery wash through the hose directly after siphoning will help extend the life, but it will eventually get gunky and require replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, be careful when soaking hosing in StarSan overnight. I've found if the StarSan is too concentrated, it will basically degrade the hosing as it's very caustic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-08-10T12:47:40.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-10T12:57:23.020" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to rinse my grapes before making wine this year. I do understand that I may lose a little flavor, the main reason I would like to do it is to get rid of the fungicide I used during the year, I really do not want to drink it. The question is....1) Can I rinse them with a hose on the vine 1-2 days before harvest? or 2) Harvest and then rinse them on the plastic container, let them dry and crush them. Thank you very much, Roger&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18456" LastActivityDate="2020-08-10T13:31:05.063" Title="Rinsing grapes before harvest...how to best do it" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25131" CreationDate="2020-08-10T13:31:05.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always rinse my harvested grape clusters manually in a big bucket of water with metabisulfite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gives me a bit of control:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is easier to remove insects, not much, but e.g. earwigs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is easier to remove rotten or otherwise not healthy grapes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When rinsed, I can then immediately pull the grapes from the stalks and add them to another bucket for pressing later&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a bit of work, but then I only harvest grapes for about 10 litres of juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2020-08-10T13:31:05.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25135" CreationDate="2020-08-10T21:52:12.627" Score="0" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing mead for the first time, having successfully brewed beer a number of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right out the gate I had trouble with a strong unpleasant odor.  Frantic research suggested that the yeast was stressed, so I agitated it and lowered the temperature from ambient (~75℉) to between 60℉ and 65℉.  This cut down on the smell but also slowed fermentation.  At one week in, the gravity dropped from 26.4 %Brix to 22.4.  At two weeks I am at 20.4.  So I've gone from roughly ~1.11 to ~1.06 gravity.  The final goal is between 1.005 and 1.020.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm two weeks in, interested in moving to secondary, and still quite a ways from my target gravity.  Is this expected?  Will the mead continue fermenting a significant amount in secondary or should I keep it in primary longer and do something to reinvigorate fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6411" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T13:15:17.810" Title="Gravity goals for mead in primary?" Tags="|mead|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25133" CreationDate="2020-08-11T13:15:17.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're simply bothering with this mead way too soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was wise to lower the temperature, although I'd shoot for 66/68 ambient, whatever you can do with some consistency is good. I'm operating off the assumption that you're using some strain of wine yeast here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'd give it at least 4-6 weeks before you start pulling readings. Although if you have not yet, I would certainly add yeast nutrient at least once during fermentation. Don't pull it off primary too soon, there is a ton of fermentation that needs to be done and getting it off the primary yeast cake will hinder that. You don't need to have a concern for autolysis as long as it isn't sitting on the primary cake for 8+ months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will ferment more slowly as it progresses, especially as the must approaches higher gravities.  Patience is probably the hardest part of mead making. I wouldn't really ever advise anything less than 6 weeks primary, 8 weeks secondary. I know that timespan is brutal- but the longer you can stand to wait the better the finished product will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T13:15:17.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-11T16:18:47.423" Score="0" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just made my second batch using an Anvil Foundry all-in-one brewing system. I used an immersion chiller to bring the wort down, but could only get it down to 82F (groundwater in Texas in August... whatya gonna do?). I didn't want to pitch my yeast at &amp;gt;80F, so I decided to seal it up and leave it overnight to cool to room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning, I decided to use the pump that came with the Anvil to pump the wort to the fermenter. I realized this would leave a significant amount of sediment in the Anvil, but figured it would have settled in the fermenter within a few hours anyway. But then I took my gravity reading and I'm .010 lower than my target. Would this be normal/expected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the fix for low OG is to add DME - which is simply adding more particulates - do I need to be concerned? Do I need to go ahead and add DME? I guess it's a matter of if the DME stays in suspension. Is missing by .010 &amp;quot;significant&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still dialing in the adjustments I have to make for the Anvil, so it could be that I didn't use the right amount of water during the mash, or my sparging technique isn't effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18462" LastActivityDate="2022-05-18T11:08:30.823" Title="Gravity loss after settling?" Tags="|specific-gravity|original-gravity|dme|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-11T17:43:03.283" Score="2" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a spray bottle filled with a diluted Star-San solution that I used infrequently. Now I'm back to using it on a regular basis and it has a strong scent that is reminiscent of Windex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it still safe to use? Could it just be reacting with the plastic of the bottle? The bottle is a standard all-purpose HPDE sprayer which should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It's about a year old and the pH is reading quite high at 7-8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15277" LastEditorUserId="15277" LastEditDate="2020-08-11T17:52:50.740" LastActivityDate="2020-09-21T22:17:37.410" Title="Star-San smells like Windex" Tags="|starsan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25129" CreationDate="2020-08-11T21:28:10.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use neutral undiluted bleach which I purchase in a spray bottle with a small nozzle (imported into Australia from UK). I arrange tubing so that it is full of bleach for a couple of hours or more, then rinse clean. So far, tubing is crystal clear after this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T21:28:10.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25123" CreationDate="2020-08-11T23:27:42.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used the same wort calculators on ciders with some success.  True the ingredients are different, but the correction curves should be similar.  Personally for beer-wort I use a correction factor of 0.99 for my refractometer, and 1.04 for cider... but your mileage may vary.  You might even find the opposite is true for your refractometer.  Each gauge has its own uniqueness that takes dozens of batches to figure out, and I'll admit I am not quite there yet.  But yes, overall, I think it is wise to use the same correction calculators, with the understanding that it might be pretty far off until you gain enough experience over many batches to understand your own correction factor, and the limitations of the equations which don't always work very well above say an OG of 1.090 or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T23:27:42.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25173" CreationDate="2020-08-12T10:58:46.897" Score="1" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done some research but are easily confused by metric (approximate imperial) conversions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My constraints are really a lack of proper equipment but I have the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 x 5 L (5 qt) fermentation bottles (PET water bottles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;300 mm (1 ft) diameter - 300 mm (1 ft) deep pot that will fit on my gas stove, calculated total volume 20 L (20 qt)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no chilling facilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My planned quantities are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30 g (1 oz) hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 g yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 kg grain (4 pd)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 L of strike water (10 qt)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My expected water losses are 2 L absorption 1 L during 90 minute boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strike water temperature 70 C with mash added to hot pot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stir at 60 min target temperature 60 C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;final mashout temperature 55 C at 90 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boil 90 min&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15 g hops at 30 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15 g hops at flameout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;transfer to PET containers at 55 C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;total cooldown period expected to be 4 hours&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate any corrections - especially about the strike water volume and the temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18464" LastEditorUserId="18464" LastEditDate="2020-08-13T19:20:43.497" LastActivityDate="2020-08-22T01:05:00.777" Title="First try BIAB Pilsner recipe" Tags="|recipe|biab|pilsner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-12T15:02:01.897" Score="2" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just about finished my first attempt at mead. I'm now thinking about my second batch.&#xA;The yeast I have used is pretty aggressive, Bulldog mead yeast, so was wondering if anyone has some better suggestions. Looking to make an orange and ginger mead and possibly a peach mead.&#xA;All advice gratefully received.&#xA;Fitz&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18414" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T20:49:28.043" Title="Best yeast to make a sweeter mead" Tags="|yeast|first-time-brewer|mead|help|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-14T01:50:12.007" Score="1" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Built a bar with a concrete counter top. Already have the 3.5 inch hole for the beer Tap. I'm planning on converting a freezer into a Kegarator. Any suggestions on models ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, can we use a chest freezer on its side so it opens on the side instead of the top ? Is that possible ? something like this : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.danby.com/products/freezers/dcf035b1wm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.danby.com/products/freezers/dcf035b1wm/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;pls share any recommendations or thoughts ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18472" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T12:05:22.367" Title="Need recommendations on a Freezer to Kegarator Conversion" Tags="|beer|equipment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22376" CreationDate="2020-08-14T01:58:15.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a Talk with Palmer, and Beer Structure it's the Mineral Structure, how much Minerals the Water on the beer has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The total Dissolved Solids, he says all the beers are soft and medium. He says he only knows a Firm or High Mineral Structure Beer, and that's Dortumunder Export, it's a light beer but it doesn't taste like that because its water it's really high in the amount of Minerals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18473" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T01:58:15.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25149" CreationDate="2020-08-14T03:27:56.180" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a country where its difficult to get yeast for home brewing, so can someone guide me to a way to ferment?&#xA;I heard that if you make grape juice and leave it in the open for few days it will have yeast in it? have anyone try that or should i just go with bread yeast?&#xA;I couldn't find hops neither but i'm going to try with black tea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18468" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T16:34:54.163" Title="Yeast for my first homebrew" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25144" CreationDate="2020-08-14T14:27:01.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bread yeast are normally cultured to stop fermenting at far below 5 %, not enough to get beer or wine dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would rather add a single raisin or culture a strong starter, starting with a minced raisin in a slightly acidic environment - such as 25 mL water and 25 mL fresh pineapple juice.  I will then feed using 50 mL starter and 50 mL wort/juice until it becomes active enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at how they do bread starter and use the same method to make a fermentation starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops is a crucial ingredient for beer - as taste and preservative.  Order some by mail or find a source in your country.  I am sure it is widely planted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18464" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T14:27:01.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25142" CreationDate="2020-08-14T15:30:41.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't really matter the model, just pick one that fits your capacity and space needs.  As for putting it on its side, you can't do that.  The compressor and cooling fluids are arranged to work with gravity to an extent and they need to be upright.  In a chest freezer that means it needs to sit on its feet.  You can get upright freezers though if that's really how you want to do it.  But if you're doing that why not just go with a fridge unit?  You're better off with a fridge anyway for many reasons; especially if you want it to open from the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T15:30:41.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25271" CreationDate="2020-08-14T16:26:09.043" Score="3" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been experimenting with sugar wash fermentations. I've tried sucrose (cane sugar) as well as dextrose (corn sugar) and observed stalled fermentations in both, in spite of sufficient yeast nutrients, DO and yeast alcohol tolerance. I'm suspecting that the pH of the wash may be the culprit. As other already have noted (but something I had yet to learn when I started) the pH of a fermenting sugar wash can crash to 3 or even 2.5 or so. Unsurprisingly, my yeast (a S. Cerevisae strain) appears to struggle with this low pH. A resumption of fermentation after raising the pH with calcium carbonate appears to confirm that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, this acidification is the result of organic acid production by the yeast during fermentation (which also plays a role in ester formation). In order to prevent too much acidification and ester production (the latter being undesirable in a wash intended to produce a neutral spirit) distillers recommend to buffer the wash, e.g. with calcium carbonate. I am trying that at the moment, but no-one seems to agree on how much calcium carbonate to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, organic acid production is a normal thing for yeast to do. However, this is far more of an issue in sugar wash fermentations than in beer fermentations: while in fermenting wort the yeast tends to drop the pH to 4-4.5 or so, it rarely drops to 3 or below. This suggests that wort has some sort of buffering capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What causes this? What wort component(s) have this buffering effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;// FvW&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastEditorUserId="15057" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T13:49:51.953" LastActivityDate="2020-11-24T13:25:58.290" Title="Acid production in sugar wash fermentation vs wort/beer fermentations" Tags="|wort|sugar|yeast-nutrient|ph|acidity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24984" CreationDate="2020-08-14T16:28:28.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I have since learned is that the pH of a sugar wash can crash quite severely (down to 3 or even 2.5). S/Bayanus tends to handle a lower pH better than S/Cerevisiae does. The former feels fine at a pH of 2.8-4 while the latter prefers 4-4.5. I'll experiment with buffering the pH of a wash and see how the two compare then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T16:28:28.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25144" CreationDate="2020-08-14T16:34:54.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaving grape juice open to the air will usually inoculate it naturally with wild yeasts, but this is a hit-or-miss sort of thing. You may have a beneficial fermentation, or a bad one. Worse, you have a high risk of bacterial infections or mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bread yeast (S. Cerevisiae) is not well suited for wine fermentations; it struggles with the pH of the must (wine yeast is more acid resistant) and its alcohol tolerance tends to be too low. Some bread yeasts can handle up to 10% or so, but this is by no means guaranteed; it may max out at 5% or even less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, beers can be brewed using bread yeast. Whether or not that will produce the right flavour depends on the strain of yeast and is impossible to predict, so experiment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already noted above, hops act as a preservative. Black tea doesn't have that property (to speak of). However if you brew very cleanly and do not expect your beer to have a decent shelf life, this is not necessarily the end of brewing. The other function of hops is to provide bitterness in order to balance out the malty sweetness of the beer. Before hops were used a wide variety of bitter herbs were staples of brewing. Google for &amp;quot;gruit&amp;quot; and see what you can find locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T16:34:54.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-15T12:22:21.973" Score="0" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very new to home brewing. I have finished making my first batch of DME beer. Although during bottle conditioning I could see enough CO2 bubbles getting generated, upon opening the bottles after about a week, it didn't generate the foamy head. However, if I agitate the bottle, I manage to get some foam. If I refridgerate the bottles after conditioning, the beer becomes completely flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing anything wrong? How can I ensure a decent foamy head and carbonation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ingredients&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Barley DME&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magnum hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ale yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Priming sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~10 days of primary fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~ 4-5 days of bottle conditioning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18479" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T23:23:23.277" Title="Increase carbonation in home brewed beer?" Tags="|carbonation|ale|co2|dme|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25150" CreationDate="2020-08-15T23:23:23.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's only been one week?  Wait another week before trying another bottle.  It often takes 2 weeks to carbonate in my experience.  If that doesn't work, maybe you didn't use enough priming sugar.  You need about 2 tablespoons priming sugar per gallon for good carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T23:23:23.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-16T14:38:13.030" Score="3" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that my stouts produce much more foam during fermentation than other beers do. On the Mr. Beer website &lt;a href=&quot;http://support.mrbeer.com/support/solutions/articles/5000507335-why-is-my-brew-foaming-over-in-the-fermentation-tub-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;it says&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;Plenty of foam, although messy, is not a bad thing as it indicates healthy yeast and a strong fermentation. &lt;strong&gt;Excess foaming is more likely to occur when using ale yeast with darker brews and higher fermentation temperatures.&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; (Emphasis mine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This confirms my own experience. Question: why is it that ale yeasts fermenting dark styles are so prone to producing more foam in the fermenter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T05:42:43.033" Title="Why do dark styles foam more during fermentation?" Tags="|yeast|stout|krausen|foam|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25156" CreationDate="2020-08-16T18:07:15.193" Score="1" ViewCount="760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying my first batch of ginger beer, using what seems to be a pretty standard &amp;quot;fool proof&amp;quot; recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the bug:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;2 cups filtered water; 2 tbsp chopped ginger; 2 tbs refined sugar&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;The ginger wasn't labeled organic, so I peeled it.  The fermentation started slowly, but by day 4, it looked fizzy enough to use.  The first day had a cheesecloth cover, but then my airlock top arrived, and I switched to that.  I bottled on day 4, but now on day 5, the bug is really active, and I wish I would've waited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the brew:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;2 quarts water; 273 grams sugar; 54 grams ginger&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Brought this to a boil, simmered 7 minutes, let &lt;em&gt;fully&lt;/em&gt; cool to room temperature (paying attention to all of the warnings about the heat killing the yeast), strained, and added: &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;1/2 cup of the bug (strained); 150 ml lemon juice&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;bottled it up into sterilized swing-tops, only filling to the &amp;quot;shoulders&amp;quot; of the bottles, for headroom.  Set them into the handily divided, cardboard shipping boxes from the swing-tops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning, I went to burp the swing-tops, and the bottles seemed FLAT. I didn't hear any pressure, and didn't see any bubbles.  When should second fermentation start producing some bubbles and pressure?  Should I just be patient?  Would it help to add a splash of the now more active bug to the bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18481" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T10:06:00.660" Title="When should ginger beer's second fermentation start producing pressure?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-16T20:06:05.940" Score="2" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;...if anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing batch number 4 now. So far I've tasted three different delicious beers with three different krausen behaviors, and the fourth yet again has different krausen. I'm just wondering if there are any early observations that an experienced brewer can make about the taste or mouth feel of the final beer based on the krausen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does more krausen imply certain types of sugars or proteins that will make the beer heavier or thicker tasting? Is it going to be a more malty tasting beer if it has a taller-standing krausen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I'm learning to just bottle and taste the beer. But I am interested in finding ways to get early indications about what the beer is going to taste like and try and shorten the feedback loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18256" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T12:45:56.493" Title="What does krausen say about the flavor of the final beer" Tags="|krausen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25154" CreationDate="2020-08-17T10:06:00.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just be patient, it is perfectly normal for there to be little to no pressure after the first day. Especially if you do not live somewhere hot to supercharge the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not start seeing any activity by day 3 I'd add another half cup of your now very active ginger bug to get it started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in a hot climate and I need 2 days for second fermentation, but in the winter it might take 2 days just to start noticing any activity at all in second fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your ginger beer :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T10:06:00.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25159" CreationDate="2020-08-17T16:03:00.613" Score="0" ViewCount="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cGtcF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cGtcF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;West Coast IPA Day2 &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m trying craftabrew home brewing kit(West Coast IPA). There was a lot of yeast activity on Day 1 after putting it in the container. Day 2 I removed the tubing from the steel vessel, cleaned the pile by just adding water into the tube and put it back into the vessel. But looks like the tube fell out of the vessel in the morning and I don’t know how long it’s been exposed to outside air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my brew spoilt? If so how do I check? Is there a way to save it still if it’s spoilt. It’s turned into a nice orange on top and not brown. I’m not sure if it’s still good&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see some bubbles but not a lot coming out of the tube. On day 1 it was frothy and messy everywhere. It was completely green froth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18482" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T18:00:49.130" Title="CraftABrew tubing immersion exposed to air overnight" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-17T17:56:01.103" Score="1" ViewCount="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an enzyme preparation (powdery form) with an activity of 1045 U/g which I would like to use in mashing a 70 g of grain whose starch percentage is at 67%.&#xA;How do I determine the quantity (in grams) of the enzyme preparation needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18483" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T03:29:35.020" Title="How do I determine the amount of enzyme needed to liquefy a known quantity of starch substrate?" Tags="|mash|sugar|malt|mash-ph|brewing-enzymes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25157" CreationDate="2020-08-17T18:00:49.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You likely won't be sure if something infected it until at least the bottling stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the beer is probably fine. During that stage of fermentation, a healthy krousen and layer of CO2 is protecting your beer. Unless a bunch of bugs managed to fall into it, you are likely fine- and in any case it cannot harm you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside based on your picture, make sure your fermenter isn't getting sunlight on it. A brown paper bag or t-shirt over the fermenter will usually do the trick (perhaps it is here for the sake of this picture- and in that case ignore me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T18:00:49.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15158" CreationDate="2020-08-17T19:06:24.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm only on my first bug, but the cycle of mine has been: fresh and gingery &amp;gt; ginger and citrusy (there's no citrus in it) &amp;gt; still smelling fresh, but no longer any citrus, with lots of bubbles, and a slight yeasty smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe I used was: 2 cups filtered water; 2 tbsp chopped ginger; 2 tbs refined sugar.   I wasn't sure if the ginger I was using was organic, even though it was from a mostly organic store.  So, I scrubbed it really well, and removed almost all of the skin (98+%).  This method takes a little more time, before the bug gets going, but I like that I didn't have to research all of the different yeast suggestions, and second-guess that choice and variable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the organic sugar...  I've seen in several posts and videos, that to get things started, that the yeast responds best to plain, refined sugar.  There were several reasons given for this.  The most consistent was the size and availability of the sugar crystal, and that it was the most basic sucrose, but others suggested that with many other raw and organic sugars, that residual molasses may interfere.  It seems like it would supply additional food to the bug, but no one gave any sourced, or definite information.  Personally, I started with refined, store-brand sugar, and alternated every other day with Zulka pure cane sugar.  It's listed as, &amp;quot;an all natural, unrefined and non-GMO pure cane sugar&amp;quot;.  My result has been fresh, bubbly goodness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18481" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T19:06:24.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15158" CreationDate="2020-08-18T05:20:13.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been feeding my ginger bug for a few years now, had to start over a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your ginger bug will initially just smell like the ginger you've used, however fresh it may be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you continue to feed it there will be a higher concentration of yeast, and especially dead/dormant yeast. This you can see as a layer at the bottom of your ginger bug container. There is nothing harmful or bad about it, but it will slowly change the taste and smell of your ginger bug, which will in turn also have a noticeable effect on the flavour of whatever you use it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can keep it smelling relatively fresh by simply pouring off the ginger bug into another container before each feeding to clean out the yeast at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter if you do this or not, you just need to be aware that the smell/taste of your ginger bug does have an effect on your final product. Personally I do want my ginger bug to smell a little sour and alcoholic, it imparts the best flavour into my Ginger Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T05:20:13.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25155" CreationDate="2020-08-18T12:45:56.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is any information you could glean from the krousen about the final product of the beer that you wouldn't have implicitly from your recipe and fermentation conditions. The strongest thing your krousen might indicate is the health of your yeast- although this is probably a weak indicator at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T12:45:56.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25322" CreationDate="2020-08-18T17:45:33.760" Score="2" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a little off-topic to the process, but more about supplies for the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I could pick up some cheap, used, Grolsch bottles online, until I started looking at the prices.  On Etsy and eBay, these used, empty bottles are going for almost the same price for a single bottle ($15.50 for a pair; $21 for three), as a new 4-pack ($7.20-9.50), with beer in them.  When you add on the shipping, and the wait, it'd actually be cheaper for me to run out to the store, buy a 4-pack, and empty the beer, for the bottles.  Is it that there's so much demand for these bottles, with more home brewers, that there's a shortage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do most people go, for affordable, fermentation-strong, flip-tops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18481" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T21:53:44.670" Title="Is there a Grolsch flip-top bottle shortage?" Tags="|equipment|bottles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25117" CreationDate="2020-08-18T20:08:59.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you're referring to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://stillspirits.com/products/turbo-air-still&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Still Spirits Air Still&lt;/a&gt;. It's rubbish and will produce a fairly terrible brandy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, don't let that dissuade you from giving distillation a go. For the Air Still in particular, fill it up with wine and operate it according to the instruction booklet. You could &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Lc7IhcUVyA&amp;amp;t=23s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;try to make cuts&lt;/a&gt; but it will be very difficult due to the tiny size of the air still and the amount of smearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions will probably tell you to carbon filter it - ignore this. The Still Spirits system is designed to make neutral spirits that are flavoured with essences from their Essence range, but for a brandy you want to retain the flavours from the original wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some great YouTube channels on home distillation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCThY8lOKKkVDd9HVBT59zCg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Still It&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCatCieEI4cPNteKXzBomVMQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Barley and Hops&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16771" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T20:08:59.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25166" CreationDate="2020-08-19T00:26:49.757" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my American IPA has too much yeast flavor and I am not sure how to remedy this.  I want a a crisp clean hoppy aromatic finish and the yeast and malt are all I really taste.  My first thoughts were that I have been leaving it in the primary too long?  I am assuming that the longer its sits in the primary or secondary with the yeast and other sediments, the more &amp;quot;yeast flavor&amp;quot; will be imparted to the beer?  Is this accurate?  Also, my fermentation temps were a little on the high side... Anyways, here's the stats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 gal American IPA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;all grain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;American Ale Yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;primary fermentation, in 7 gal. SS primary, 7 days at ~75 degrees (it was hot out!) 1.020 Gravity at the end of primary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2nd stage fermentation in 5 gal. glass carboy, 14 days, temp averaging around 71 degrees Final Gravity of 1.014&#xA;I did a good job of hardly sucking up any sediment when transferring to secondary fermentation and I separated again before bottling.  I think I am really good about sensitization.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So where am I going wrong?  Is it the yeast type?  Was it too warm during fermentation?  Did I leave it too long in the primary or secondary or perhaps not long enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18486" LastActivityDate="2020-08-25T19:10:12.627" Title="Yeast flavor in my American IPA" Tags="|yeast|americanipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25165" CreationDate="2020-08-19T13:50:41.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your fermentation time (7 days primary, 14 days secondary) is a good enough timeline. When you say &amp;quot;American Ale Yeast&amp;quot;, do you mean dry yeast safale-05 (the red packet)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is the issue is high fermentation temperatures and/or yeast health. I know it's difficult to keep temps in check if the carboy is just in a closet or something. If you don't have some kind of cooled fermentation chamber, there are some tricks you can use to drop the temp a few degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware your beer will generate quite some heat while fermenting, 75F ambient may actually mean your beer is easily hitting 80F during a vigorous fermentation. If my assumption you are using Safale05 is correct- I can say that in my experience this yeast gets quite estery (&amp;quot;yeasty&amp;quot;) during fermentations over 72F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving on, 1.020 after 7 days primary is a bit high for an all-grain batch, especially if it has been fermenting at higher temps, which leads me to believe your yeast might be struggling. Add some nutrient at the end of the boil- or better yet- switch to a liquid yeast. I know the cost is greater, but you can cultivate the yeast if you want to reduce costs. There are some modern yeasts that allegedly are ester neutral at higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long has the beer been bottled? If it's still young- it might just be a bit green and need more time. If so, let it age another week and old condition for a few days in the fridge before you crack 'em open. A little conditioning will do wonders for improving beer flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you really want that hoppy aroma to pop- try to dry hop 4-7 days in secondary with 2+ ounces. I'm not sure if you already did this though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T13:50:41.807" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25158" CreationDate="2020-08-20T03:29:35.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount is dependent on desired speed and temperature constraint, possibly the condition of the grain. Make test batches and time how long they take to reach full conversion under your conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any amount of enzyme held at a temperature within its active range will eventually convert all of the starch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too slow of a conversion and you risk contamination or simply being impractical. Too much enzyme is a waste of enzyme, the only lasting problem would be in cases where you want to stop the enzyme halfway through conversion because the change could be happening faster than you can act.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18387" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T03:29:35.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25124" CreationDate="2020-08-20T19:33:31.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eh up Ben, I've been brewing for 25 yrs and i still worry about bottle bombs. but lets put this in perspective, if fermentation is complete- IE no change in sg for a couple of days and you don't over prime all should be well.&#xA;All my bottles are stored in a cardboard box with packing, losing the beer is not the issue with me its not having to clean up a big mess if it ever did. its has never happened so if you follow the first two probably it probably never will. or use PET bottles for low alc quicky drunk beers, they can take a LOT of pressure,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18489" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T19:33:31.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25124" CreationDate="2020-08-20T20:31:12.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should always be worried about bottle bombs (or at the very least, over-carbed beer) if you cant assert that fermentation is complete before you bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy a hydrometer and use it to assert that fermentation is complete (specific gravity reading stable for 3 days) before bottling. It removes guesswork from the process and thus anxiety from wondering whether or not today is the day your beer explodes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this particular situation, &lt;em&gt;assuming&lt;/em&gt; that fermentation was complete, the small amount of extra sugar is unlikely to cause a bomb. However if you open a bottle and the contents fly out - get the rest in the fridge quick to stall fermentation otherwise you may end up with bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16771" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T20:31:12.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25136" CreationDate="2020-08-20T20:38:21.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you missing 0.010 based on a previous measurement, or based on what the recipe says you should get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the former, remember that hydrometer (I assume you're using a hydrometer) needs to be temperature-corrected and most are calibrated for 20C. So if you measured the previous day and got a different measurement once it had cooled, then the difference is because of the different temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the latter, the recipe targets are guidelines and what you actually get can vary based on your &amp;quot;brewhouse efficiency&amp;quot;, which takes into account a bunch of factors specific to your system and the malts you've used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that a higher SG means more sugar, and more sugar means more alcohol. So if you're trying to hit a target ABV then I would add more sugar (in the form of DME), otherwise I wouldn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16771" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T20:38:21.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25141" CreationDate="2020-08-20T20:49:28.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @skvery suggested, backsweeten it to make it sweeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mead is quite devoid of nutrients (as honey is basically straight fructose) so a strong yeast bred specifically for mead / low nutrient fermentations will outperform an ale yeast and not become as stressed. Due to the strong yeast, more of the sugar will be converted to alcohol which is why backsweetening is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could argue that you could use an ale yeast and when it gets stressed out and stalls there will still be some sugars in there for a sweeter taste. However, when  yeast becomes stressed it starts throwing out esters which will make your mead taste &amp;quot;yeasty&amp;quot; like bad homebrew :). Better to backsweeten with some of the honey&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16771" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T20:49:28.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25137" CreationDate="2020-08-22T00:31:35.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Star-san does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; smell like Windex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not use it in a food and/or beverage environment. Even if it is &amp;quot;safe&amp;quot; to use, it could still impart a nasty flavour or aroma.  You've probably put a lot of effort into making your beverage, why risk ruining it for the sake of 20 cents worth of sanitiser in a cheap plastic bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dilute Star-San should be crystal clear, and have a pH under 3.5.  Five Star Chemicals (makers of Star-San) recommend diluting a new batch &lt;em&gt;every time&lt;/em&gt;.  The shelf life of the concentrate is 2 years, and there should be a date on the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, many home brewers use diluted Star San after the &amp;quot;immediate use&amp;quot;, me included.  But I make a new batch after a week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2020-09-21T22:17:37.410" LastActivityDate="2020-09-21T22:17:37.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25140" CreationDate="2020-08-22T01:05:00.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The grain absorption in brewing is generally about a litre per kilogram of grain, so this part looks good.  My strike water temperature is generally around 74°C for a 66°C mash.  If you're aiming for a cooler mash, this sounds good.  It's also very dependant on the ambient temperature, and equipment involved.  You could always add a bit of heat to bump it up.  It's beneficial to &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; stir your mash, ensuring there are no clumps of dry malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evaporation losses depend on how vigorously you boil,the shape of your pot, and a bunch of minor environmental factors.  I can't really comment on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of a &amp;quot;Mash-out&amp;quot; is to raise the temperature of the mash to the point where the enzymes responsible for converting malt starches into sugars denature, and stop functioning.  Effectively it prevents any further conversion, fixing the sugar/starch levels at that time.  A general mash-out temperature is about 78°C (172°F).  So your mash-out at 55°C does not look correct.  Probably you don't need to mash-out at all, since Pilsener is a style that benefits from a touch of dryness, and in a small batch it wont take long for the wort to boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A recipe with X grams of boiling hops does not indicate much.  The &amp;quot;bittering power&amp;quot; of hops is roughly indicated by their &amp;quot;Alpha Acid&amp;quot; (AA) percentage.  So if the recipe said &amp;quot;15g of 5% AA hops at 30 minutes&amp;quot;, that's &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more accurate.  Hops can range between 3% AA, and upwards of 17% - there's a big difference.  If you are using a traditional German Pilsener hop, like Tettenanger, Hallertauer, Hersbrucker, Spalt, etc. these are typically lower in alpha acid (~4-5%), so 15g in a 10 litre batch sounds mostly OK.  If you were using something like 14% AA Magnum, well that's different.  It's your beer, make it how you like it.  I've only written the above because you said &amp;quot;Pilsener&amp;quot;, which has a specific style with a specific bitterness level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything else sounds pretty good.  I assume your fermentation bottles have a bit of extra space for the foamy &amp;quot;krausen&amp;quot; when the yeast really gets going.  As @rob said, since this is a lager (and you assuming are using lager yeast), try to keep the temperature down around 10-12°C.  This is most important during the first 3 days when most of the yeast esters are being created.  Also allow your beer to fully ferment, testing with a hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in an environment where water is scarce.  So I cannot &amp;quot;waste&amp;quot; it on chilling hot wort.  Typically I just put the lid on the pot, and walk away. Later it is transferred into the fermenter (along with yeast) when it's cooled.  Many brewers practice a method called &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/06/06/australian-no-chill-brewing-technique-tested/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;no chill&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;, where the wort is transferred hot (very hot) into a food-grade container, which has the air removed and is sealed.  This effectively makes a &amp;quot;fresh wort&amp;quot; kit, which can later be fermented.  I guess, my point is: don't be so worried about cooling.  If you're really worried, wait until the wort is below 80°C before adding flame-out hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to sum up, your recipe looks pretty-much OK, as far as I can tell.&#xA;Good luck, and let us know how it goes, either way!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-08-22T01:05:00.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25177" CreationDate="2020-08-22T01:26:43.463" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started my first BIAB all-grain brew, but unfortunately my hydrometer broke before I could get an OG reading. I was targeting around a 1.065. Just around 24 hours later I took a reading and got a 1.030.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also accidentally overpitched the yeast somewhat significantly (~1/3 packet of Safale US-05 for a 1 gallon brew).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand there's really no way to know for sure what the OG was, but I'm interested in knowing by roughly how much I undershot the mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18491" LastActivityDate="2020-08-22T20:53:42.873" Title="Typical first-day change in specific gravity" Tags="|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-22T15:29:08.943" Score="2" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;So i recently fermented a pale ale but only was able to transfer just under 4 gallons of my planned 5.5 gallons into my fermenter due to transfer issues. My final gravity is shooting past my 1.018 estimate and is creeping towards 1.010 and is finally slowing down. So my question is with my lower amount of beer the reason my fermentation is going that direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18492" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-08-22T21:02:33.947" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T02:01:35.110" Title="Batch size affecting my Final Gravity?" Tags="|fermentation|final-gravity|attenuation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14709" CreationDate="2020-08-22T20:41:56.300" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine was bubbling for the first 3 days and when I went to feed it the 4th day I also added a little more water, im wondering if I changed the chemistry too much myself&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18494" LastActivityDate="2020-08-22T20:41:56.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25174" CreationDate="2020-08-22T20:53:42.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one blunt but true answer: It's too late. There's no accurate way to know what the OG was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-08-22T20:53:42.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25175" CreationDate="2020-08-22T21:01:54.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, batch size should not be what is taking the final gravity low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would question first why you expect an FG of 1.018.  That estimate is likely inaccurate but depends most of all on the specifics of the recipe including grist, mash time, and yeast strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you say you have brewed a pale ale.  Assuming this is dry hopped, be aware that hops contain enzymes, which if not boiled will be present in the fermenting beer and can break down complex sugars into simpler sugars which the yeast will break down to more alcohol and carbonation.  This effect is known as &amp;quot;hop creep&amp;quot;, and is very likely part of the effect you are seeing here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-08-22T21:01:54.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-24T12:16:03.590" Score="2" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making a heather ale (so not of the usual process of making an beer wort). I got the Boadicea hops for aroma, but because I got them the day after making the wort (poor organisation on my part) I ended up just making a tea from about 30gms and then pouring in the whole tea and hops together before pitching the yeast, i.e. dry hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a day the ale became cloudy and a foam formed on top suggesting that the yeast had taken hold, but the airlock wasn't bubbling. I checked to see if there was a leak anywhere in my bucket and couldn't find one. The next day I tried removing as much of hops as I could, but the condition of the beer didn't change. I started to think that I'd pitched bad yeast into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast forward a few days and I needed to use the bucket for a different fermentation so I siphoned my 15L of heather ale into 3 demijohns. The first two of these demijohns are now blissfully bubbling away (suggesting that there isn't a problem with the yeast), whereas the last demijohn, which got the brunt of the hops that were left over after trying to remove it, is in the same position of having a bit of a head but also not bubbling through the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has me thinking about whether the presence of too much hops early on in the fermentation retards the production of alcohol &amp;amp; CO2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen other questions about why people's brews aren't bubbling and answerers usually point to the yeast or not enough airation etc. My experience is that I have two demijohns that are doing fine and one that's not producing CO2. They're all from the same wort, same yeast and same airation etc. The only difference is that one of them has more hops in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added some extra sugar water to the third demijohn to top it up as there was more of a gap at the top compared to the other two demijohns. I think I also switched the airlock on it and noticed that that particular airlock hasn't had its two halves quite as uniformly as my others, so it could be an air leak issue, but I was using a different airlock when the ale was fermenting altogether in a single bucket (that airlock has since worked fine on other ferments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I'm still confused, but the ale is fermenting fine now so whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18500" LastEditorUserId="18500" LastEditDate="2020-09-02T17:02:30.943" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T17:02:30.943" Title="Does the presence of hops in early unfermented beer retard the fermentation process?" Tags="|dry-hop|ale|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25182" CreationDate="2020-08-24T13:08:18.613" Score="3" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did my first homebrew a fortnight ago, an american IPA BIAB-style on the stovetop. I ended up with a low &lt;strong&gt;OG&lt;/strong&gt; (~1.045 - target was 1.075) and now after two weeks of fermentation a high &lt;strong&gt;FG&lt;/strong&gt; too (~1.026). I have tried readded some dry yeast but a day later the gravity has not changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a little reading it looks like one of two things went wrong: I forgot to shake the carboy to aerate it &amp;amp; maybe I mashed at the wrong temperature - I heated to strike temp OK but then just left the pot (covered) for an hour without any insulation &amp;amp; without checking the temp. Apparently if you &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/24702/18441&quot;&gt;mash too low then you can convert the wrong kind of sugar for the yeast&lt;/a&gt;, which is ringing true here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a quick way to check if the beer is full of unfermentable sugars?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, would you even bother to bottle such a low-ABV high-sugar beer if that is indeed what has happened? It smells like beer mixed with syrup..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18441" LastActivityDate="2020-08-25T22:52:21.583" Title="Check beer for unfermentable sugars?" Tags="|mash|stuck-fermentation|biab|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25181" CreationDate="2020-08-24T16:25:15.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unadjusted readings from refractometers are accurate only with no alcohol present in the sample.  So taking a reading on fermented beer will not give you an accurate specific gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as an aside, mashing cooler would cause higher conversion rate (not lower). As long as you had it hot enough (but not too hot to cause the denaturing), then the conversion probably is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the problem is that you've used a refrectometer and measured a sample that contains alcohol without running the adjustment math.  &lt;strong&gt;I would suggest that your specific gravity is probably 1.014.&lt;/strong&gt;  This is based on the presumption that your OG was 11.2 brix and the reading after fermentation is 6.6 brix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D3OHV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D3OHV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brix calculator on northern brewer site&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/pages/refractometer-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.northernbrewer.com/pages/refractometer-calculator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it really does taste &amp;quot;sweet&amp;quot;, then it could be that you mashed too hot, and the yeast are unable to consume the types of sugar produced at those higher temperatures.  Alternatively, it could be that the yeast have stalled and there really are fermentables still present.  An experienced brewer can easily tell the difference between flavor of unattenuated sugars, and the flavor caused by a higher mash temperature.  But the main thing is if you personally like to drink the beer.  If so, just sit back and enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more on correct hydrometer usage: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/10913/can-a-refractometer-be-used-for-testing-final-gravity?rq=1&quot;&gt;Can a refractometer be used for testing final gravity?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2020-08-24T16:36:37.003" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T16:36:37.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25181" CreationDate="2020-08-25T22:52:21.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a simple case of mis-interpreting the refractometer.  But the typical way to check for lowest possible final gravity (i.e.: remaining unfermentables) is to do a &amp;quot;Forced Fermentation Test&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially this is taking a small sample of the wort and giving it an &lt;em&gt;abundance&lt;/em&gt; of yeast and warmth to see just how low the yeast will take the sample.  This typically ferments out quicker than the larger batch of beer (with a normal amount of yeast), so providing an accurate measure of what the limit of the final gravity could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further reading (including methodology):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://grainfather.com/forced-fermentation-test-what-is-it-and-why-do-it/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://grainfather.com/forced-fermentation-test-what-is-it-and-why-do-it/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-08-25T22:52:21.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25175" CreationDate="2020-08-25T23:02:56.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use the same amount of yeast in a smaller batch, you would expect a faster fermentation, and perhaps a lower final gravity.   When making a strong beer (like a Belgian Triple, etc.) it is common practice to pitch a lot of yeast to ensure good fermentation that fully completes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, a final gravity of 1.018 seems very high for a pale ale (on a sweet stout or very strong beer - sure). Whereas 1.010 sounds like a fine stopping point for a pale ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-08-25T23:02:56.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25180" CreationDate="2020-08-26T07:54:13.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hops don't usually have a significant effect on fermentation speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much yeast slurry you end up with in each fermenter does. If one fermenter got more yeast it could finish and flocculate much sooner, looking &amp;quot;finished&amp;quot; quicker, even overnight. It could also go the other way, looking more active because it has more yeast. All depends on the timing of when you observe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a gravity reading with a hydrometer and post an update if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3546" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T07:54:13.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25136" CreationDate="2020-08-26T08:04:43.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, removing sediment should not affect specific gravity. Note you should be measuring clear liquid without too much sediment. SG indicates the amount of solute &lt;em&gt;dissolved&lt;/em&gt; in the solution (wort). Solid substances don't count, and anything dissolvable would have already dissolved (you're nowhere near saturation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3546" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T08:04:43.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-26T10:58:55.977" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, i've done a few brews before (brew in a bag) but this is my first since getting a fridge and a corny keg. My beer has finished fermenting, and I've transferred it (minus the bottom gallon or so with all the crap) into a corny keg and put the keg in the fridge (at about 2.2C/36F) to cold crash it. (the main reason I did this is because the corny keg is the only thing that will fit in the fridge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going camping in about 48 hours and want to take some of the beer away with me in bottles, so ideally I would carbonate it first, in between now and then. What i'm wondering though, is if the carbonation will interfere with the cold-crashing. Would it be best to give it 24 hours without the CO2 and then turn it up to high (eg 35 psi) for the second 24 hours? Or can I just start carbonating now? (I already put a bit of CO2 in to flush the air out, then closed the CO2 regulator again, so no more will come in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a carbonation cap, so if I would get better results by not adding any CO2 at all in the next 48 hours, and then try to carbonate it in the bottles before leaving, then that's an option, but it's more hassle and will probably not be as carbonated as I'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding speeding up the clearing, I do have some gelatine (which has worked well before but i'd prefer to avoid, since I think it affects the flavour, and i'm trying to go as minimal as possible with this brew) and also some Bentonite (which I've not tried before), so there are some extra options there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grateful for any advice, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18204" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T12:10:52.427" Title="I'm cold-crashing in a corny keg, in a fridge. I want to take some away in bottles in about 48 hours. Can I carbonate it at the same time?" Tags="|carbonation|corny-keg|force-carbonation|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25142" CreationDate="2020-08-26T12:05:22.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not use a freezer as it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;has the potential to freeze your beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You generally get more internat space&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fridge does not need additional temp controller, if you do add a temp controller to a freezer, you need to add a wait in so it does not spin up and down the compressor too frequently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Brewchez said - DO NOT put a freezer or fride in any other orientation that the one it is designed to be used in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T12:05:22.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25189" CreationDate="2020-08-26T12:10:52.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would carbonate straight away, not wait 24H. Personally would not go above 2bar ~ 30 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use finings in home brew, cold crashing for 48H should be fine in such a small vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T12:10:52.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25194" CreationDate="2020-08-26T14:49:30.360" Score="2" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Scale.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This picture from beersmith.com&lt;/a&gt; of a refractometer (Looks like the same refractometer as mine) scale to go back-and-forth between my brew notes (at the computer) when doing ABV calculations. I sometimes record the SG reading during the brew because I'll have the target OG of the recipe in mind and just not &amp;quot;thinking&amp;quot; in Brix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I noticed the scale at beersmith and the one in &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; refractometer (pic below) are not the same! Shouldn't both just be representative of the mathematical equations to convert Brix &amp;lt;&amp;gt; Wort SG @ 20C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than a crummy QC process at the factory, is there another reason these two scales would be so wildly different (eg: compare at 16 Brix and then again at 29 Brix)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iCbmG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iCbmG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My scale&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T21:29:31.143" Title="Why are these refractometer scales so far off?" Tags="|specific-gravity|refractometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-26T20:00:32.400" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building an immersion chiller (following &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.berrybrew.co.uk/how-to-build-a-wort-chiller/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; tutorial). Looking at hose pipes online I was surprised to find them rated for temperature. Standard garden hose seems to be up to 40C (104F) and 'heavy duty' hose up to ~50C (122F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the tutorials I have looked at just mention hose pipe without mentioning anything about temperature rating. The chap in the one I am following just grabbed some from the garden..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea how hot the water leaving the chiller will actually be beyond 'somewhere between ground water temp and 100C'. I do know that some people like to collect the first few gallons to then use for cleaning as it is hot enough for that. So I am thinking that 50C isn't unrealistic when the wort is still ~100C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the water coming out be hot enough to damage a regular hose pipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18441" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T13:55:46.783" Title="Do I need heavy duty Hose Pipe for Immersion Chiller?" Tags="|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25192" CreationDate="2020-08-26T21:29:31.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple.  The SG scale is wrong.  Only use Brix.  A refractometer is incapable of measuring SG.  It's an approximation, and in this case especially, it's pretty far off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using that SG scale, use a conversion tool like this, which is way more accurate when done properly, both for OG and FG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T21:29:31.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21969" CreationDate="2020-08-27T03:24:45.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google search tells me this is likely beer pellicle common with some bacterias used in fermentation and can actually prevent bad bacteria from entering at least that is my take from this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/what-is-a-pellicle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://beerandbrewing.com/what-is-a-pellicle/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18504" LastActivityDate="2020-08-27T03:24:45.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18267" CreationDate="2020-08-27T04:20:39.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely DON'T wash your grapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my vineyard/winery, we feel that if you have to wash your grapes then they aren't worth making wine with them. Detritus will always be part of the 'art' and 'unpredictability' of making wine. Plus, traditional wine makers, feel that all that 'stuff' contributes to the essence of the wine. Washing them will definitely water them down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18505" LastActivityDate="2020-08-27T04:20:39.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-27T13:23:06.747" Score="1" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;first time poster (long time lurker) on these forums. Hope you'll are doing well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am 6 months into this hobby and have brewed 3 Pale Ales which have ranged from disastrous to pretty bad :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now am eager to brew a Porter (1 Gallon). All the 3 brews I have done so far have been using the Brewers Friend Windows Software which has stopped working. So I have tried Beersmith and the Brewfather app, must say, I found Brewfather to be much more suitable so I am going to use that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe goes like this :-&#xA;BIAB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pale 2-row : 980 grams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caramel 60 : 90 grams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chocolate : 60 grams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roasted Barley : 60 grams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flaked Oats : 30 grams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops include Cascade &amp;amp; Centennial (target - 36 IBU).&#xA;Pre-Boil Gravity : 1.054, Original Gravity : 1.072, Final Gravity : 1.018&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe calls for 3.2Ltrs of Strike water &amp;amp; 3.49Litrs of Sparge water. Is this correct? Beersmith &amp;amp; the Brewer's Friend web-tool show very much different volumes of water mostly due to the boil-off rate. Boil-off on Brewers Friend is somehow stuck at 1.5 Gallons per hour i.e around 6 Litres per hour which does not usually happen on my 10Ltr Stock Pot. I end up losing around 1.5-2 Litres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love for somebody to tell me if I am doing something wrong here because I don't want to end up throwing darts in the dark, again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the recipe calls for salt additions of Gypsym, Calcium Chloride &amp;amp; Baking Soda to hit a pH of around 5.5. Hope this is correct, as I would be using RO to begin with (don't have a water quality report of my local water here yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will be great. Thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18507" LastEditorUserId="18396" LastEditDate="2020-08-31T13:36:42.160" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T13:36:42.160" Title="First time brewing a Porter (BIAB) - Need help!" Tags="|recipe|water|sparge|biab|porter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-27T13:24:48.300" Score="1" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought it would be fun to make grape jelly wine. My specific gravity started at 1.104. After day five fermentation appeared to stop at 1.08. I increased the temperature, added lemon juice and yeast nutrients.Ten days after the start the SG is 1.06.&#xA;If SG is slowly going down is fermentation continuing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18506" LastActivityDate="2023-06-02T20:09:11.073" Title="Specific Gravity and fermentation of wine" Tags="|fermentation|specific-gravity|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25198" CreationDate="2020-08-28T12:50:49.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;3.2Ltrs of Strike water &amp;amp; 3.49Litrs of Sparge water appears to be approximately correct for your process.  Personally if I were brewing this recipe I might aim for higher volumes closer to 5.4L Strike and 4.4L Sparge, but this is for my own process and boiloff rate.  As you can see, the exact volumes depend a lot on your own particular process and the water losses at every step of the way.  These losses include: the permanent loss of water that you choose not or cannot squeeze out of the grains (perhaps 0.5L), evaporation rate (process specific as you know), cold break and hop material discarded after the boil (also up to you and how much hop material you have, pellet vs. whole hops, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these variables actually make volume calculations extremely difficult for the small batch brewer.  I often brew only 1-2 gallon batches, just like you, and even after dozens of batches, I still struggle to get the volumes figured correctly.  It is part of the small batch experience.  With bigger batches of 3-5 gallons, I always come much closer on my final intended volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding pH and brewing salts like gypsum, CaCl2 and baking soda: in a recipe with a lot of dark malts like this one, you should find you need little if any adjustment at all, or in a few cases you might need just a tiny amount of baking soda, like 1/16 teaspoon.  Malt itself contains far more salt in it naturally than any additions that brewers might use, and dark roasted malts and crystal malt will reduce pH to the right place on their own.  I would avoid adding gypsum or CaCl2 unless brewing a very light color beer like pilsner or cream ale, as these will reduce pH to the proper level in that case.  But any beer with any significant percentage of specialty malts really needs no adjustment in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T12:50:49.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25193" CreationDate="2020-08-28T13:55:46.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long ago- I used regular hosing for this similar thing (And assuredly many homebrewers do) and it was ~fine. The hose will degrade a bit over time at those temps- but as long as the water from it wasn't ever getting consumed, it never bothered me. The hose however never just melted flat out when running the chiller, but it did get a bit soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue I ran into was if the hose touched a hot part of the kettle or burner and got a hole in it- but that probably a result of too many beers on a brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want something higher rated, you can either get some silicon tubing or get a hot-water tank or washing machine hosing which can handle pretty high temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T13:55:46.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24933" CreationDate="2020-08-30T14:50:45.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yeast will be using the sugar to make alcohol and carbon dioxide. I'm not sure where you read that it will get sweeter, but as far as I know the more sugar you add the more the yeast will consume. The best way to sweeten it is to add a sweetener such as Stevia. You can only use sugar/honey/maple syrup if your yeast has died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful adding sugar before bottling! It can make your bottles explode. You should only add one tsp of sugar (roughly) to a bottle (assuming fermentation has already stopped.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18513" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T14:50:45.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-30T19:35:42.237" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to activate a Wyeast activator pack, but the inner nutrient pouch will not break. Thinking about using rubber mallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any useful ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18515" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2020-08-31T14:27:10.863" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T00:47:21.323" Title="Wyeast smack pack activator not activating" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25205" CreationDate="2020-08-30T19:39:32.833" Score="6" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making an Irish Red Ale, unfortunately I forgot to take a starting gravity reading before putting the beer into primary fermentation (primary fermentation was done at 68 °F +/- a few). Unfortunately this means that I wont be able to calculate the final ABV of the beer. I let it ferment for 16 days now, on the 14th day I read a final gravity of 1.028 and the same same thing on the 16th day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys think it would be a good time to bottle the beer? I will be adding priming sugar as well, so I'm worried about the bottles exploding. Or should I just longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ingredients used came from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/article/irish-red-ale-style-profile/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt;, the main difference is that I used a different brand of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the problem could be that I only used one pack of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9.9 lbs British pale ale malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6.0 oz Great Western crystal malt (45 °L)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6.0 oz Great Western crystal malt (120 °L)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5.0 oz. (142 g) roasted barley (+300 °L)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5.25 AAU Kent Golding pellet hops, (1.05 oz at 4.7% alpha acid)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Omega Yeast Irish Ale (OYL-005) Slurry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18514" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2023-01-18T19:12:44.350" LastActivityDate="2023-01-18T19:12:44.350" Title="Is my final gravity too high for bottling?" Tags="|bottling|first-time-brewer|final-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25204" CreationDate="2020-08-31T14:25:42.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, you can consider you fermentation completed when you get the same gravity reading for 3 days in a row.  It is either completed or stuck (I won't go on the details here, but do a search on 'stuck fermentation' if you like).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, 1.028 seems low enough to be considered finished.  You can go ahead and bottle, however, I would recommend letting it sit for a few more days to help clarify the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T14:25:42.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25204" CreationDate="2020-08-31T17:21:06.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the gravity is indeed stable, I think @phillippe's answer is good, logical advice and would be wise to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if this is a 5gal(19L) all grain batch with ~10lbs of fermentable grain, I don't think your SG could be much over 1.050. This is of course an assumption, based on ~10 pounds of grain and average efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means you've got a beer ~3% that is likely quite sweet with very low IBUs to balance. If I were in your shoes- I would repitch or put some WLP001 just to finish it out. Of course- this is personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T17:21:06.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25213" CreationDate="2020-09-02T18:42:42.660" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cVipL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cVipL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;carboy with stopper&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if this is a blunder. I put some water but I didn’t have the lid that I’m holding on my hand. It’s been 2 weeks like this and I noticed it when I was adding cascade hops at the end of 2 weeks of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do let me know if this is a blunder and I need to pour out my beer and start fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is from craft a brew west coast ipa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18482" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T13:39:41.427" Title="Didn’t completely add a stopper CraftABrew" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|beer|carboy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-02T20:06:37.977" Score="1" ViewCount="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make raisin wine that is usable for certain Jewish religious ceremonies. For this the raisins have to yield some amount of moisture on squeezing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which raisins yield some amount of moisture on squeezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is posted in a slightly different form on &lt;a href=&quot;https://judaism.stackexchange.com/questions/117186/best-raisins-to-make-raisin-wine-for-kiddush&quot;&gt;“Mi Yodeya” (Judaism Stackexchange)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18523" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T20:06:37.977" Title="Raisins for wine which yield some amount of moisture on squeezing?" Tags="|wine|ingredients|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-02T20:19:54.897" Score="2" ViewCount="1594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking specifically for 2 gallon or 4 gallon carboys. I have looked on eBay, Amazon, Homebrewing, and many more, but I cannot find a 2 gallon or a 4 gallon glass carboy. There might be some plastic options out there but glass is what I am specifically looking for and avoided looking at HDPE options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have any of you encountered or know of an online option of where I can buy this size? If you haven't are there any options for custom making them, such as from a glass vendor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I quickly looked through this forum and didn't find this question asked, so if I did miss it please redirect me to the question if this is a duplicate. Also, the carboys of this specific size are needed for a wine experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18524" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T15:58:54.607" Title="Where to buy 2 Gallon or 4 Gallon carboy?" Tags="|wine|carboy|glass|buying|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-03T02:36:54.320" Score="0" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm finally getting back into brewing. I'm using a keg my daughter bought me, and I have the CO2 tank.  At one point, I bought this regulator.  But the numbers on the dials don't seem to make any sense!  I've read about people using 8 .lbs of pressure, but if the red numbers are pounds, I can't even make it go that low without the adjustment screw coming all the way out.  Plus, if the black numbers are kilos, the conversion doesn't seem to make sense.  4 kg equal over 50 lbs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm leaving it hooked up to the keg, but I'd really appreciate some help.  Thanks very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Russ&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eiL5f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eiL5f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;regulator dials&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18525" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T02:31:31.760" Title="CO2 regulator dials" Tags="|beer|carbonation|keg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24836" CreationDate="2020-09-03T04:02:03.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ive had some of the same experiences with Sake. my first batch was so delicious, the next one..not as much. It seems to me that a possible contributor to your situation is that the solution was allowed to sit undisturbed for too long. I have had batches of Sake turn when they were allowed to do their own thing for too long. As a brewer, I was more than a little surprised by the process differences from beer to Sake in that Sake needs a lot more gradual attention, in the form of stirring and additions of rice Ect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18335" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T04:02:03.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25210" CreationDate="2020-09-03T13:28:15.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the Top gauge this is your output pressure, adjusted by the screw&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Numbers in red = PSI (marked bottom centre in red above the screws in the gauge)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Numbers in black = Kg/cm2 (marked bottom centre in black above the screws in the gauge) I think, picture not clear, but makes sense as 10Kg/cm2 = 142.233psi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so if you want 8psi it would be approx the first little red mark (7.5psi)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of my setup, set to about 15psi serving pressure (bottle off)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day you need to find what works for you, your setup and your beverage, the first little red tick mark is a good start point, if you get too much foam, then turn it down! if it does not come out quick enough, then turn it up! simples...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rSnju.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rSnju.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Serving Pressure&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HjK06.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HjK06.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T13:28:15.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25207" CreationDate="2020-09-03T13:39:41.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would take a gravity reading and taste it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it looks like it fermented well, did it come out of the top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you had the white cap on it then that is definitely OK. CO2 is heavier than air, so would have protected the beer, and your white cap would have stopped bigger bogies from getting in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but all in the taste, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T13:39:41.427" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25210" CreationDate="2020-09-04T02:31:31.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that you would like to be at about 8 Lbs. for dispensing.It looks like the high and low pressure dials are oriented correctly, It could be that this assembly did not always have the check valve in place, and it had some beer accidentally backed into the works of the low pressure dial causing it to read incorrectly. A couple of questions though fist- Do all the dials drop to zero if you disconnect it from the tank? And did this regulator assembly work well before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18335" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T02:31:31.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25209" CreationDate="2020-09-04T14:31:09.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Northern Brewer make the &amp;quot;Little big mouth bubbler&amp;quot; and other sizes, I have seen them used in youtube videos and they look great (thick glass) and easy to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am awaiting stock to arrive to the UK so I can get a couple, and at $15.99 for the 1.4 gallon thats not too bad price for my trial runs before I go to full size batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.northernbrewer.com/collections/big-mouth-bubbler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.northernbrewer.com/collections/big-mouth-bubbler&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T14:31:09.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-05T12:25:18.860" Score="2" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is the right forum for this question..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;SMASH&lt;/strong&gt; beer is &lt;strong&gt;S&lt;/strong&gt;ingle &lt;strong&gt;M&lt;/strong&gt;alt &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt;nd &lt;strong&gt;S&lt;/strong&gt;ingle Hop, and (from the recipes I've seen) &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; those - if you mashed with an adjunct like wheat would you still consider that a &lt;strong&gt;SMASH&lt;/strong&gt; so long as there was only one malt in the grain bill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18441" LastEditorUserId="18441" LastEditDate="2020-09-05T15:06:54.167" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T09:43:31.120" Title="Does a beer with one malt and one hop PLUS adjuncts count as a SMASH?" Tags="|recipe|smash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-06T12:40:44.647" Score="1" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently doing 1.3 gal batches in carboys and I want to scale up to full 5 gal batches - I have a 30L fermenter but don't have the equipment to brew at that batch size (yet!) - I can probably manage ~2 gal max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have limited space, so I'd like to get rid of the carboys which is why I'm wondering if it's possible. If it makes any difference the 30L one is a pressure fermenter (fermzilla all rounder) (but I have no idea if you could even attain any kind of pressure at such a low volume..).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it OK to ferment such a small amount in a fermenter of that size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18441" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T16:12:08.243" Title="Fermenting at a fraction of the fermenter size - is it OK?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25216" CreationDate="2020-09-06T13:54:04.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, as you said &amp;quot;A SMASH beer is Single Malt And Single Hop&amp;quot;.  And wheat malt is still a malt.  So yes, you can call it a SMASH beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T13:54:04.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25209" CreationDate="2020-09-06T15:00:14.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not found glass carboys in those sizes unfortunately.  However...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love my 3-gallon glass vase fermenter (on the right in picture below, also have a 1.25-gallon on left).  Have to be very careful with them, but they are effective, I've fermented many batches in them.  Vases allowed the smaller batch sizes while also minimizing my concerns regarding head space and head pressure during fermentation, and are reasonably easy to handle and clean if you build a simple stand and have a spray attachment in your shower (or I guess you could hose outdoors).  Just be sure to keep them well supported at all times.  Been 2 years and I haven't broken one yet.&#xA;Only $23 for the 6&amp;quot; OD 3-gallon one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://vasemarket.com/26-x-6-inch-clear-cylinder-glass-vase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://vasemarket.com/26-x-6-inch-clear-cylinder-glass-vase&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49378960328_be033f2c13_o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49378960328_be033f2c13_o.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would have to shop around probably looking for 5&amp;quot; diameter for 2-gallons, and might need 7&amp;quot; OD for 4 gallons.  I haven't looked for those sizes but you might get lucky on vasemarket.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Ah... here is one that will get you very close to 2-gallons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://vasemarket.com/cylinder-glass-vase-24-x-5-inch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://vasemarket.com/cylinder-glass-vase-24-x-5-inch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 4-gallon will be the most difficult to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T15:32:23.613" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T15:32:23.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25217" CreationDate="2020-09-06T21:07:53.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correct me if I got this wrong, you want to ferment 2Gal (~10 litre) in a 30 Litre pressure vessel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 1st Ferment, you will probably get away with it as long as the vessel is left undisturbed then the CO2 produced by the yeast is heavier than air and should protect the beverage. the fermentation will probably not produce enough CO2 to bubble any/all air out through the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 2nd Ferment, it will not reach any decent pressure way too much head room to give any sort of carbonation, the fermentation will not produce enough CO2 to pressurise the vessel and there will also be too much air in there that could make it go 'funny'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to do this would be to force carbonate the beverage, by pressurising and bleed the air out a couple of times with CO2, either using a cylinder (with a regulator and all the other trimmings) or with the little &amp;quot;Mini Keg Co2 Bulbs 16g&amp;quot; (you may need a few to fill it up, but google them you will see what I mean) and some fittings to attach it to your vessel. in either case this way you could skip the 2nd Ferment all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this was of help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T21:07:53.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25227" CreationDate="2020-09-06T23:54:52.493" Score="2" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 12 gallon stainless steel vessel with 10 gal. of pinot noir in it.  I racked it once and it has been sitting for 6 months or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep the 2gal of headspace full of CO2.  Everything seems to be going very well - I tasted it recently and I think it's ready to bottle.  (months overdue, actually)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only minor problem is there seems to be some CO2 still dissolved in the wine, which makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I got a brake bleed kit and will make a vacuum and let all the carbon dioxide bubble out.  I read that it only takes 5-10 mins at vacuum for the CO2 to bubble out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question:  Can I just set the vacuum and leave it for one or two or five days until I am ready to bottle ?  Is there anything at all wrong with replacing the headspace with a vacuum for an extended period of time ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next year, when I do this again, can I just skip the CO2 blanket and keep the the wine under vacuum at all times ?  This is after all fermentation is done and we're just letting it sit on oak cubes or ... we're just too busy to bottle it so it needs to sit ... any problem just being under vacuum all the time ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18530" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T22:47:05.100" Title="Can I vacuum my primary fermenter headspace for an extended period?" Tags="|bottling|wine|over-carbonation|headspace|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7346" CreationDate="2020-09-07T01:20:24.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing 1-gallon batches using the Brew In A Bag technique, and so far I'm very happy I didn't jump into 5 gallon batches. I'm actually holding off on brewing 5 gallon batches and so far I've brewed twice a month for the last few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No special pot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No special heating element&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to store quantities of beer for just myself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No who-knows-where-they-were-sourced extract kits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full access to grain variety&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No need for keg/kegerator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably more research for each beer. If you're like me and enjoy geeking out on this part, it might be an advantage as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hops and yeast quantites have to be cut down a lot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No chance of kegging.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a couple more things I've learned that I think will help set you up for success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops tend to come in 1-ounce quantites. Having not brewed an IPA yet (who needs to when 90% of every beer is an IPA anyways), I'm using 1/4 ounce of hops. That keeps my on recipes that are simpler hop recipes. I also tend to make replacements for some more common hops. I'll often try and simplify or substitute with things I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast also comes in quantities for 5-gallon batches. No need for a starter. It's also more than half the cost of my recipes each time. I've been pulling off half or more of the yeast first and trying to keep it in the fridge. A bunch of people make DME starter for this, but I just use simple sugar-water solution. I'm hoping to save myself money by reusing the yeast later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My stove barely gets 2 gallons of wort up to a rolling boil. I don't think it could handle more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of mash schedules involve calculating water additions to bring the mash up to a given temperature. I usually just turn on the stove. I do calculate strike temperature though; it makes me feel advanced. There's nothing wrong with slowly moving from one mash temperature to another; it is impossible for a lot of brewers who don't have special heating for their 5-gallon or more batches. Alternatively, just do a single-infusion mash to keep things simpler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash-out or sparge is unnecessary if you're not using a mash tun. There's some question about efficiency, which I've never computed with my setup, but my OG keeps being higher than I expect so I wouldn't worry about it. I've read that BIAB may have higher efficiency than using a mash tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18256" LastActivityDate="2020-09-07T01:20:24.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25229" CreationDate="2020-09-07T01:21:39.337" Score="2" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Southern California. I have an easy time finding websites and sources discussing buying wine grapes by the ton. I even found 1 source that will sell a minimum of 100 pounds. However, I cannot find any sources for buying fresh grapes in quantities less than that. Does this exist? How do folks find local fresh grapes for homebrewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18256" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T16:56:52.113" Title="How do you find fresh grapes for homebrewing?" Tags="|wine|buying|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14586" CreationDate="2020-09-07T07:02:19.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this sounds too easy, but I had half of a batch do this.  I was using two different types of bottles (8oz. and 16 oz.).  It ends up that the smaller bottles had thin, cheap, rubber gaskets, and there wasn't a good seal.  No seal = no pressure buildup = no carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used almost the exact recipe/process the OP used.  I noticed the problem when I went to burp the bottles, and only the large bottles gave off any gas.  By replacing the gaskets on the small bottles, within a day, or two, I suddenly started to have carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18481" LastActivityDate="2020-09-07T07:02:19.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25223" CreationDate="2020-09-07T23:44:47.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK (south east) there are many orchards, fruit farms and PYO (pick your own). The best way I found is if you grab a couple of bottles of your last brew and visit a farm on the off chance, if can speak to someone important (may need a second visit) and explain what you are trying to achieve and that it is for personal consumption. A couple of bottles generally goes a long way, also with a promise of a couple more bottles made from their own produce once it is ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already do this with a hop farm, and a pear farm. Next year I will be doing exactly this with bee keepers, as I would like to try making a mead which will need about 30lb (14Kg) of honey for a couple of batches ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that many farmers produce their product and sell it for profit (duh) so they don't really have time/effort to ferment it, so if you can give them something back they really do appreciate it, more so than the actual $$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or another alternative might be labour in return for grapes, you never know you may learn something too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastActivityDate="2020-09-07T23:44:47.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="861" CreationDate="2020-09-08T12:15:33.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an old fridge in the garage.  Got an Inkbird controller which has two sockets attached - one for the fridge and another for the heat pad under the fermentation bin. Thermometer probe is in a makeshift pocket inserted through the lid so that it's below the surface of the brew. Now I can control the fermentation temperature to a one degree Centigrade range including the initial fermentation exotherm.  You can take the boy out of chemistry but you can't take chemistry out of the boy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18535" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T12:15:33.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25221" CreationDate="2020-09-08T22:47:05.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW, you should realize that the CO2 you are degassing does not come from the blanket of CO2 in the fermentor.  Its CO2 that dissolved into the wine during fermentation.  I find the vacuum idea a cool way to degas though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, I think your process needs to stay the same for using CO2 to keep the headspace free from O2.  As for keeping it under vacuum I see two issues.  You need to be 100% sure you're vessel can with stand the vacuum for that long.  It might be OK for the degas but the fermentor might implode if given too much time or the temperature drops enough to pull more vacuum.  Second, you need to be 100% certain your lid can maintain the seal while under vacuum.  Otherwise, that vacuum will pull in air and O2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can remedy both issues by simply degasing as you have. Leave a blanket of CO2 until you bottle.  Any CO2 absorbed from the blanket (minimal at best) will likely be degased out of solution when racking into bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a dedicated wine maker but that's the way I see it from what I know about CO2 and pressures.  I've made a few batches of wine FWIW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T22:47:05.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25223" CreationDate="2020-09-08T22:51:03.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My LHBS sells them by the crate during harvest season.  Each crate is approximately 36lbs of grapes.  It takes 2 crates to make ~5 gallons of wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My LHBS doesn't ship the grapes so I can't help you there.  Its for local pick up only.  I only point out that maybe you can search local homebrew shops around you to get something similar in quantity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T22:51:03.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25223" CreationDate="2020-09-09T16:56:52.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd check craigslist. I poked around on some Southern California CL pages for &amp;quot;grapes&amp;quot; and saw some entries with pick yourself pricing for folks wanting less than 100 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, 'Southern California' is a big place- I have no idea what region you are so I can't verify, but it's worth a check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T16:56:52.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25203" CreationDate="2020-09-10T00:47:21.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never seen or used these before, YouTube is your friend. here is a video showing some tips &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/svrUeZEg1MI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/svrUeZEg1MI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked it up as I wanted to know what this was...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would never consider using one of these packs when there is absolutely nothing wrong with dumping yeast straight into the mash even without a starter. it been done like this for the age of time without some expensive fancy overpriced 'smack pack'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found these pouches for 7.99 GBP in the UK, wow that will buy enough yeast that will keep for years to ferment about 40 x 5gal brews = 1600 pints of beer just for the cost of one pouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and isn't the point of home brewing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to make something yummy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to save money&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to make something to take pride in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to make something you know EXACTLY what is in there&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;further more for someone to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;activator isn't entirely necessary&amp;quot; - My point proven right there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;it does provide some nice nutrient to the yeast&amp;quot; - You only need to add nutrients if your mash is lacking nutrients then you need to look at your mash process/recipe or fermentation has stalled...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T00:47:21.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25217" CreationDate="2020-09-10T13:49:28.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far my brewing is all from kits, I don't use air locks, just 5gal buckets with lids, not sealed all round - so pressure doesn't  build up. Then I prime and bottle the flat beer and it gets its fizz from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the initial fermentation has co2 sealing the surface of the brew the free space above won't matter, then if you bottle condition it should all be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you use pressure barrels, you should be able to fill any empty head space with C02 from a cartridge, as if you had just dispensed a load of beer already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18544" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T13:49:28.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25217" CreationDate="2020-09-10T16:12:08.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes it is possible, yes it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is some maths (that I hope helps) -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 mol of glucose weighs ~180g. You have 1.3 us gal ~ 5 litre (4.9....) of fermentable liquid, I will say 5 is much easier to work with here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At gravity of 1070 you have roughly 1 mol/litre. (182.5g/l)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we assume that during feremtation roughtly 1 mol of glucose yields 2 mol of CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then 5 litres @1070 fermenting down to roughly 1000 will yield 10 mol of CO2. And given that 1 mol of CO2 at room temp and 1 atmosphere of pressure fills ~24 litre or 6.3 USGal, our 10 mols of CO2 will fill 240l, or 63 US Gal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that any worry about headspace O2 vs CO2 is unfounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB - if you did this in a pressure vessel of 30l... with 5 litres of uncompressable fuild(your fermenting must/wort), and never allowed any CO2  to escape ... the pressure would build and you would be (assuming the yeast ran to completion and diastatic pressure did not kill the yeast) end up with 240l in 25l headspace, or a very dangerous pressure vessel, unless you had a pressure regulator/saftey valve on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mpesgens.home.xs4all.nl/thwp/sugar.html#calcsug&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://mpesgens.home.xs4all.nl/thwp/sugar.html#calcsug&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aqua-calc.com/calculate/mole-to-volume-and-weight/substance/carbon-blank-dioxide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.aqua-calc.com/calculate/mole-to-volume-and-weight/substance/carbon-blank-dioxide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T16:12:08.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2501" CreationDate="2020-09-10T16:19:06.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use pet bottles - having made this mistake before, I found that the bottles delaminated (you get blisters between the layers) the bottles look a bit cloudy, but still function just fine(!). I have used them many times since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this happened, I spent a couple of weeks, each day, slackening the caps, letting the gas out then tightening them up again quickly (before the foam got out!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem with the final product was not the foam (you can let that settle), but they had a lot of sediment and when opened the beer foamed this got very mixed in with the beer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been much more careful since!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18544" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T16:19:06.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25209" CreationDate="2020-09-10T23:59:50.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best value glass vessel I have found is the 8litre (1.75 gallons) kilner infusion dispenser - at £15 it is very good value... drill a hole in the lid for an airlock/valve and it is 'job done'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dunelm.com/product/kilner-5-litre-drinks-dispenser-1000066708&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dunelm.com/product/kilner-5-litre-drinks-dispenser-1000066708&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18544" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T23:59:50.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-12T11:41:36.810" Score="2" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm browsing through &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/search/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewers Friend recipes&lt;/a&gt;, specifically looking at NEIPAs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a few exceptions they are mostly 60min(+) boils even though they don't have bittering additions at the start of the boil (as-per the low-bitterness of the style). The first hop addition tends to be at the whirlpool, or towards the end of the boil (e.g. 60min boil with first hops @ 10min).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would you boil a beer like this for that long? Is it just to raise the OG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18441" LastActivityDate="2020-09-16T20:51:19.040" Title="Why would a NEIPA recipe have long boil time?" Tags="|boil|recipe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25240" CreationDate="2020-09-13T07:05:03.037" Score="3" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a complete homebrew n00b and I need help answering a couple of questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have pressed my garden apples into 2 gallons of juice. It is now is the shed in a 3 gallon bucket. My questions are..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the excessive air space (headspace?) in the bucket a problem? If so, what should I do?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I understand I need to leave the lid on loose until the natural fermentation dies down and I then add the airlock, is this correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The kit came with some wine yeast. Should I use this or not and when does it go in if so?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18546" LastActivityDate="2020-09-13T13:05:23.927" Title="Cider n00b questions: excessive headspace, yeast and airlock" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25239" CreationDate="2020-09-13T09:38:55.077" Score="5" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last Saturday I bottled a batch while developing symptoms that by now seem like covid. Assuming the test comes back positive, should I throw the batch or is it safe for consumption?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;And generally, is there any part of the brewing process where the beer can &amp;quot;catch&amp;quot; the virus and help spread it through consumption?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastActivityDate="2020-09-14T12:51:25.383" Title="Can brewing while infected with covid-19 spread the disease trough the finished beer?" Tags="|safety|food-safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25238" CreationDate="2020-09-13T12:56:19.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alcohol and the natural pH drop (acidity) from the fermentation process will kill any viruses.  You cannot get sick from your beer... unless you drink way too much at one time, which is a different problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-09-14T12:51:25.383" LastActivityDate="2020-09-14T12:51:25.383" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25237" CreationDate="2020-09-13T13:05:23.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the hobby!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Excess head space is not a problem for at least the first 2-3 weeks of fermentation.  If you will keep it fermenting for much longer than that, you may want to rack it over to a new container with a smaller surface area at top, like a carboy where the neck is constricted.  But even if you don't, if you will be consuming the cider within a month or two, the risk of it souring is reasonably low.  It becomes a problem with greater surface area and longer timeframes.  (FYI -- since I am an extremely lazy cidermaker, leaving my cider in the fermenter for 6-12 months at a time, I have occasionally gotten vinegar.  But if I had kept it for a shorter time this would not have happened.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I would add the airlock immediately.  If it is foaming over, things could get messy, but that won't be an issue at all in your case with 2 gallons in a 3-gallon fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wine yeast is great to use.  Actually any commercial yeast will work great, regardless of whether it was intended for wine, beer, mead, or cider.  MANY people use beer yeasts for cider.  I think beer yeast gives a slight beery flavor, so I usually stick with a wine yeast.  My favorite is Cote des Blancs, makes a very clean appley cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to make a great tasting cider on your very first try, it is so easy to make.  Cheers and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-09-13T13:05:23.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25236" CreationDate="2020-09-13T13:10:04.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question.  Your guess is most likely correct -- they just want to keep the original gravity raised where it would normally be.  Shorter boil time will not concentrate the malt sugars as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also other theoretical benefits of a longer boil, including DMS reduction, haze reduction (not really a problem in NEIPA though!), improved sanitization (ditto, assuming the NEIPA will be dry hopped later to wazoo anyway!), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think you're right about the OG thing.  That, or the recipe designer really doesn't even know why they boil an hour, they just do because it's what they learned and what they always do.  Maybe that's the real reason!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-09-13T13:10:04.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25248" CreationDate="2020-09-14T13:15:47.663" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some expreience in home brewing but I want to try something different this time. I want to make hard seltzer by fermantation. There are some recipes over the internet but I could not find any answer to my questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I use PG based e-liquid flavous (TFA/TPA) after the fermantation but before the bottling?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the bottling process, the fermantation will continiue, so the PG in the flavor cause some unwanted effects like methanol fermantation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of flavors can I use other than e-liquid flavors in terms of safety&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18547" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T12:30:57.997" Title="How can I use artificial flavors when making homemade hard seltzer?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|flavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25245" CreationDate="2020-09-15T03:32:33.460" Score="1" ViewCount="1287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 5 gallon keg that I have filled with approximately 4 gallons of liquid.&#xA;The keg has an inlet and outlet fitting for gas carbonation. The inlet fitting is shallow and the outlet fitting goes all the way to the bottom of the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My normal carbonation process is done through a pump connected to the keg moving the liquid around and this pump is also connected to the gas cylinder pumping 10psi of CO2. The keg with the liquid is equilibrated after ~3 hours. The pump sucks up the liquid from the outlet fitting going through 10psi of CO2 and is pumped back through the inlet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know how long this process ought to take if I do not run the liquid through a pump with CO2 and straight out connect the CO2 to the outlet fitting to carbonate from the bottom up. I can also do it through the inlet fitting but I think carbonating from bottom up might be faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i do it this way I'd need to be rolling the keg once in a while during the carbonation to equilibrate. If I had a pressure gauge I could connect it to the outlet fitting and see where the internal psi stands after some time. Unfortunately, I do not have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18524" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T11:53:54.953" Title="How long does CO2 carbonation take for 5 gallon tank at 10psi?" Tags="|carbonation|keg|co2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25242" CreationDate="2020-09-15T12:33:23.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, typically non-fermentable flavorings are best added right before bottling (or kegging). I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; the TFA flavors count under this- but I'm not really sure. I would certainly double check they're all food safe and sugarless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flavorings should typically not have much sugar in them- and if they did I really doubt methanol fermentation would occur here, or occur in any amount that could cause you adverse effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Northern Brewer seltzer kits I have seen use crystalized fruits for flavoring (lime/grapefruit/lemon/etc) in small amounts, like 2oz or so. I have had no luck in purchasing these crystallized fruits in bulk- but there are some amazon listings for crystallized citrus fruit in individual packets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little side note on fermenting seltzer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was harder than I thought to get a 1.035 seltzer to run down to 1.000. I've never seen EC-1118 (champagne yeast) get stopped by anything before- but it will stall without good oxidation &amp;amp; nutrient. Have an extra pack of yeast on hand and make sure you add nutrient at least twice during the first week or so of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T12:33:23.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25243" CreationDate="2020-09-15T13:51:09.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use corny kegs (picture below), to fully carbonate I pump to 30psi and leave for a week, re-pump (open the bottle valve) to 30psi every so often when the pressure drops through absorption or leave the bottle attached and valve open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or (I don't really like doing this) lay keg on its side with the gas connector up, then pressurise to 30psi leave the bottle attached and valve open then rock the keg back and forth. This way gives you a greater surface area of the liquid to absorb the CO2 quicker and takes 20 minutes or so, but taste it every so often and stop when what you are looking is reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use 30psi and these methods for a soda water for a root beer or Dr. Pepper type thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an IPA, larger or other (fizzy) beer I would use about 20psi but then it may be too much/not enough carbonation for some people, you will need to see what works best for you and your setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for a proper ale or bitter I use about 5-10psi, just to evacuate the air over carbonating it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then once it is at the required carbonation level (by taste), I reduce the pressure on the CO2 bottle regulator and burp the keg to my serving pressure, about 10psi for soda water. my Russian imperial stout is quite 'thick' and chewy so need a higher pressure to push it out of the keg, about 20psi. but as I have said you will need to see what works best for you and your setup, pipe lengths, faucet and anything else it goes through will affect serving pressure, just take this as a starting guideline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also say, &lt;strong&gt;keep things simple...&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;pumps and the such will cause turbulence in the pipes and may be degassing your beer! also not really needed. All that cleaning, &lt;strong&gt;gasp&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom up... never done it, top down works and is easy/quick enough, yes there maybe 'better' more efficient ways that work for other people... it's all about what work best for YOU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This guide has some good tables in it for CO2 by volume and carbonation chart (if you want the science)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/themes/morewinepro/kegging.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.morebeer.com/themes/morewinepro/kegging.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ce2NP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ce2NP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastEditorUserId="16890" LastEditDate="2020-09-17T11:53:54.953" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T11:53:54.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25236" CreationDate="2020-09-16T20:51:19.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mainly to drive off DMS, which has mostly occured by about the 45/50 min mark, 60 min just makes sure you have driven off the DMS. To sanitize you need about 20 min, the main reason for 60 min is it is optimal for time vs Alpha acid extraction, which is not a huge concern in a NEIPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to go for a 45/50 min boil you probably could with no ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just adjust for the change to evaporative losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-09-16T20:51:19.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25243" CreationDate="2020-09-16T21:10:33.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For many years, I force carbonated using 30PSI and shaking the keg. It works, but the results are inconsistent and takes some effort to get the carbonation right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I am older and wiser, I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/themes/morewinepro/kegging.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this method&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saturation Over Time:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The principal of this method is simple: If you&#xA;leave constant pressure on the beer it will absorb the Co2 until the&#xA;pressure pushing down on the beer equals the internal pressure of the&#xA;gas dissolved in the liquid. Depending on the temperature and Final&#xA;Gravity (F.G.) of the beer, beer will usually take an average of 5–10&#xA;days to stabilize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hook the Gas-In Quick Disconnect to the Gas-In Body Connect and turn the gas on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust your regulator to the desired PSI and let the beer sit at this pressure for 7–10 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can test your beer by pulling a pint off of the keg after 5–7 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the beer is under-carbonated to your taste, let it sit for another 1–3 days, testing periodically as necessary. The great thing&#xA;about carbonating over time is you give your beer a period of cold&#xA;aging while avoiding any chances of over carbonating, which can lead&#xA;to excess foam and make serving beer very difficult. Although this&#xA;method takes longer than the others, this is by far the easiest and&#xA;least involved method.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that it pretty consistently takes about seven days to finish. Most of the beers that I make benefit from a couple more weeks maturing in the keg anyway, so I am not concerned with how long it takes to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried hooking the gas to the &amp;quot;out&amp;quot; post (to inject gas at the bottom of the keg), but I never noticed any difference in speed to final carbonation. Plus, this prevents you from sampling to see how things are going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3003" LastActivityDate="2020-09-16T21:10:33.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25242" CreationDate="2020-09-17T12:30:57.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Methanol will not be an issue, just try it, if it is horrible then bin it. Costs nothing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would use VG (Vegetable Glycerine) based flavours as some people can have reactions to PG (Propylene Glycol) when vaped, but don't know about them when consumed plus the fact it will be so dilute may not even matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might give this a go with forced carbonation as I already have the kit and flavours, Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;methanol is &lt;strong&gt;ALWAYS&lt;/strong&gt; produced by fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At ABV's under 20 percent or so it is not an issue, only when you are distilling does methanol become an issue, as the distillation process concentrates the alcohol (by removing the water from the solution) so you will be increasing the methanol content for every mouthful. that is why they talk about heads, hearts and tails in distilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A glass of wine contains about 0.0041 to 0.02 percent of methanol by volume. The same glass will have about 10-15 percent ethanol. Methanol is much sweeter than ethanol, and even a small amount adds flavor. This sweetness is what makes methanol attractive to use in an artificial sweetener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people regularly consume up to 10 mg of methanol per day as part of their normal diet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T12:30:57.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-20T07:12:16.753" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been fermenting and &amp;quot;feeding&amp;quot; my wine for about 4 days. I am going somewhere and have to skip a day on &amp;quot;feeding&amp;quot; it. Feeding as in adding sugar and more flavoring. What happens if I skip to feed it for about 1-2 days? Will it go bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18557" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T23:20:58.400" Title="What if I forget to &quot;feed&quot; my wine?" Tags="|fermentation|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-20T10:08:18.353" Score="1" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to home brew, boiled apples and used the extracted juices, 8.8 litres placed it in a bucket with a grommit added 5grams of champaign yeast, let it sit for 4 weeks but is still very flat how do I rectify this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18559" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T23:15:14.283" Title="non fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-20T15:01:30.547" Score="1" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a keg of beer at around room temp. (&lt;strong&gt;23C/73.4F&lt;/strong&gt;). I want &lt;strong&gt;2.2 volumes of CO2&lt;/strong&gt; carbonation so using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/keg-carbonation-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this calculator&lt;/a&gt; I figure out I need to add &lt;strong&gt;25.83PSI&lt;/strong&gt; of pressure - some time later the beer is carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To serve the beer, I decant 5 litres at a time into a mini-keg which I keep in the fridge (&lt;strong&gt;3C/37.4F&lt;/strong&gt;). The same calculator says that starting from scratch, I would only need to add &lt;strong&gt;7.82PSI&lt;/strong&gt; @ &lt;strong&gt;3C&lt;/strong&gt;. But the beer is &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; at the correct volume of &lt;strong&gt;CO2&lt;/strong&gt;, just not the right temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it as straightforward as transfer &amp;amp; pressurise/spund to &lt;strong&gt;7.82PSI&lt;/strong&gt; and the beer in the mini-keg will still be at &lt;strong&gt;2.2 volumes&lt;/strong&gt; of &lt;strong&gt;CO2&lt;/strong&gt;? Or does the temp. difference between the kegs make a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18441" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T23:49:14.510" Title="Transferring carbed beer between kegs at different temps - will it retain carbonation?" Tags="|kegging|keg|co2|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25250" CreationDate="2020-09-20T23:15:14.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you take an hydrometer reading (OG) before ferment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what was it and:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take another reading, has it go down?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has it finished? with champagne yeast it should go dry (depenging on your OG reading), so a reading about 1.000 means there are no sugars left to ferment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't take an hydrometer reading (and have a hydrometer) take a reading now, wait a couple more days and take another reading, did it then go down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a hydrometer... get one, they are about £3.00 GBP and take a reading&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As you can see a hydrometer is essential in brewing&lt;/strong&gt; and cheap. This is the best way to see if anything has 'happened' and will give you an ABV at the end for your final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the other comment said, in primary fermentation it will be 'flat' once fermentation is complete or stopped, then the 'fizz' is either produced by a secondary ferment done in a pressure barrel or bottles OR forced carbonated with CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T23:15:14.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25249" CreationDate="2020-09-20T23:20:58.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you take hydrometer reading before you started?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you need to be feeding it, with sugar and flavours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What yeast you using/are you following a recipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;short answer, It will be fine just wont match your recipe and you would have invented something new!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T23:20:58.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25251" CreationDate="2020-09-20T23:49:14.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;wow 25.83 PSI, that is tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real world does not work like that, nor can you measure 100th of a PSI. every beverage  beer, larger, ale and bitter and the differences between each home brewed batch, temperature, the length of you gas lines, beer lines and even the mood that your in can all make something taste different and perceived carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The real answer is try it and taste it&lt;/strong&gt; and remember what you did if it was good!, is it too 'fizzy', berp the keg and turn it down / not enough carbonation, increase the pressure by 10 PSI shake the keg and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pump some of my beers to 15 psi and some to 30psi to carbonate (room temp) then in the same keg berp them to about 10 PSI and refrigerate/serve at this pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the picture, I have to serve my Russian Imperial Stout at 20 PSI just to get it out of the keg, and the Cider next to it serves between 5 to 10 PSI, I'm having foaming issues... oh the joy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day you need to find what works for you, your setup and your beverage, if you get too much foam when serving, then turn the serving pressure down! if it does not come out quick enough, then turn it up! simples...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T1OeB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T1OeB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T23:49:14.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25256" CreationDate="2020-09-23T20:28:35.353" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my very first brew. I put a really small amount of beer (4 litres) into the fermenter (I live in a small apartment and I found a recipe for 5 litres - I tried that) on Saturday afternoon. The following day the fermentation activity was high, but on Monday it became slower and approximately since Tuesday morning the airlock is still. I swirled the fermenter for a minute, but then it didn't really help. I read about the symptoms and I found the following assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe there is something wrong with the temperature - I use Mangrove Jack's M41, which requires 18-28 celsius degree (64-82 in fahrenheit) and the temperature at home is 23-24 celsius all day and night. So I think this should not be the problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe the yeast was too much&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe the yeast was not enough or too weak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe there is no problem, just chill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I should not do anything or add more yeast. Or do not make a decision before any gravity measurement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I buy a hydrometer and measure FG (recipe says 1.006) and it is relatively high, what is the best I will be able to do? Yes, I know that the best would have been if I measured OG at the beginning. Now I see that it was a big mistake of mine, but the recipe did not warned me about the importance of gravity measurement. And as this is my first try, I'm not concerned about exact alcohol % - I will be happy if the result tastes like a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you if you read this and try to help me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18564" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T05:11:18.147" Title="Fermentation stopped too early" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25255" CreationDate="2020-09-24T05:11:18.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you put a whole packet of yeast (~10 grams) into a 5 litre batch, I would guess it's fermented-out already, especially at 24C.  A ferment will also generate its own heat, so you probably were even a bit warmer than ambient temperatures too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; way to check on fermentation progress is with a hydrometer, but if you don't have one, a quick taste-test will give you a rough idea.   If it's not sweet at all, then fermentation has progressed well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think everything is ok, but check with a hydrometer to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T05:11:18.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11413" CreationDate="2020-09-26T16:37:22.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little late to the party but thought I would add my experience with Clarity Ferm. My wife is Celiac, and very sensitive, small cross contamination results in a serious reaction. I started using CF as soon as learned of it - about 5 years ago. I use it in every batch of beer. To be safe, my wife eases into a new batch gradually over many days, starting with a sip, then on a different day, a few sips, then 4 to 6 ounces, eventually she is comfortable drinking a whole bottle. Over the years and many batches of beer (all barley never wheat) she has never had a reaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18568" LastActivityDate="2020-09-26T16:37:22.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-28T02:09:54.310" Score="2" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I freeze distill my homemade wine would it be considered brandy or fortified wine ? I like this method better than using a still with a flame .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18573" LastActivityDate="2023-12-10T23:16:28.397" Title="Freeze distilling homemade wine" Tags="|country-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25258" CreationDate="2020-09-28T10:35:41.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would not be fortified as you are not adding alcohol to it, thereby fortifying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be more akin to a Brandy on a technical level as you are using a methoid of distilation to concentrate the alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, my guess is it would leave you with a drink more similar to a fortified wine sherry/port than a brandy as freeze distilling to 30%+ is difficult, has heavy losses and it time consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that freeze distilation does not allow for the removal of heads and tails, so you run the risk of concentrating toxic alcohols, usually not a great worry but something to be mindful of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T10:35:41.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25262" CreationDate="2020-09-28T19:11:44.247" Score="0" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently pressed a some garden apples into two buckets of cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first bucket has been air sealed in a fermentation bucket with an airlock for 2 weeks.&#xA;As explained in another thread I have about 8 litres in a 15 litre bucket so there is quite a bit of headspace in there. With this batch I added some wine yeast after a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second bucket has been sealed for around a week and has around the same headspace, being 10 litres in a 15 litre fermentation bucket. With this bucket I added my yeast when I added the airlock a week ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of the buckets is yet showing any bubbling through the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are as follows..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When will it be ready! LOL. I know this is an obvious question but despite some googling and YouTubing I’m still not entirely clear of this. I am assuming the lack of bubbles is due to the excessive headspace? If this is so, will I be lacking an important indication of the fermentation taking place?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would prefer not to rack it into bottles for various reasons. My ideal outcome would be to add it in a 'bag in a box'/keg with a tap so I can pop out to the garage and pour a glass as and when I fancy one. Can I siphon it directly into a bag in a box and then that’s it I am done and ready to drink?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I want to sweeten it with honey or sugar, can I add that to the bag in the box or can I only do this is if I bottle it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18546" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T20:23:48.520" Title="When to rack my bubble-less cider and can I rack it into a bag in a box?" Tags="|fermentation|cider|racking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25261" CreationDate="2020-09-28T20:23:48.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When will it be ready! LOL. I know this is an obvious question but despite some googling and YouTubing I’m still not entirely clear of this. I am assuming the lack of bubbles is due to the excessive headspace? If this is so, will I be lacking an important indication of the fermentation taking place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, that depends on what you really consider &amp;quot;ready&amp;quot;. Fully fermented should only take a few weeks, but some longer term conditioning, say a month or so is usually a good idea and will help improve the flavor. Really, the longer the better with cider. If you pitched a wine yeast on this- it should be showing some fermentation. More likely the bucket isn't fully sealed and air is escaping. However- you need a meaningful measure of fermentation, i.e. a hydrometer. Without that, the best you'll ever be doing is guessing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I siphon it directly into a bag in a box and then that’s it I am done and ready to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see why not. I haven't used these- and I doubt they are rated for carbonation pressure, but perhaps that depends on your specific model. As long as you are just racking in still, or pre-carbonated cider that will no longer ferment it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want to sweeten it with honey or sugar, can I add that to the bag in the box or can I only do this is if I bottle it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you plan on the cider being carbonated? If so, it gets a bit tricky. Adding sugars will cause the cider to likely continue fermenting- unless you add some sorbates to prevent fermentation- or keep it quite cold. Adding sorbates however will prevent the yeast from working- and stop your ability to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically add a cup or two of fresh juice directly into my kegs to backsweeten- I don't bother with sorbates as it is kept quite cold, and the keg can withstand the pressure of fermenting cider if it does continue to work despite the cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T20:23:48.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-29T07:06:28.927" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had 2 brews and a mate, one brew recently that have turned nuclear. And it has been on or about day 20-21 after bottling in all instances. All brews were a different style but the same manufacturer, namely Mangrove Jack. Were we live is currently getting warm, 33-35C. I’ve saved most of my brews by either putting them on ice or in the fridge. They taste perfect.&#xA;When we were discussing the possibilities we speculated about the yeast potentially reactivating on or around the 3 week mark, exacerbated by the high temps. We have both made MJ brews a few months ago when it was cooler with no problems.&#xA;We brew slightly differently, he goes for lower alcohol and I for the recommend recipe.&#xA;We haven’t encountered the same problem with Black Rock or Morgan’s that we also use.&#xA;Look forward to your input.&#xA;Waz&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18577" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T11:55:05.757" Title="Bottle bombs 3 weeks after bottling" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25272" CreationDate="2020-09-29T09:22:15.180" Score="2" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my french style hard apple cider homebrew; it has turned into jello!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apples were collected 6-7 weeks ago since they were ripe and had started to drop from the trees, and were left in crates in a cool room to overripen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This weekend the apples were then washed, shredded and the pulp was left for 24 hours to oxidize, as per instructions.&#xA;The pulp was then pressed and I ended up with a batch of a little more than 15L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, to the freshly pressed cider I added the first part of a homebrew kit that I bought, then let the whole batch sit in a 12C room for 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used such a kit before to great success, from the same seller, for the same amount of cider, from apples from the same trees. The first part is a single drop of some kind of enzyme, does not say on the tiny one drop bottle exactly what it is (pectinase maybe?). But it is supposed to cause the pectin and other componds in the cider to separate, as well as kill any wild yeast. Last time I used it a brown &amp;quot;cake&amp;quot; formed on the top of the cider, and with a layer of dead yeast at the bottom, and a clear amber cider in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this time this did not happen; this time the whole 15L bucket turned into jello!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PH of the batch is about 3.2, and has a OE of about 1050, the enzyme was added when the cider was at 15C, and was then left undisturbed in a 12C room for 24H.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cider was freshly pressed, not heated in anyway, so I don't know how the pectin got activated.&#xA;Does anyone out there have experience with something like this happening?&#xA;Is it possible to deactivate the pectin again somehow, preferably without heating it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18579" LastEditorUserId="18579" LastEditDate="2020-09-29T09:28:52.957" LastActivityDate="2020-10-01T15:01:54.667" Title="Freshly pressed apple cider turned into jello overnight" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25264" CreationDate="2020-09-29T14:03:27.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all you start with pressed apple juice (Cider is the final product).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really need to know what you are putting in the pressed apple juice from the 'kit' to work out what is going on. can you provide a link to the kit that you are using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Isn't one of the points of homebrewing to make something you know EXACTLY what is in there?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the pectin is near or in the peel of the apple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How did you &amp;quot;shred&amp;quot; the apples?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you &amp;quot;shred&amp;quot; differently from the batch that worked before?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finer &amp;quot;shred&amp;quot;/smaller chunks would release more pectin from the skin and could turn apple juice to jelly overnight or when chilled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I have never used a kit with fresh pressed apple juice. just wash, crush using a crusher (for the size of the crushed apple, think of put apple on hard surface and tread on once, &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; jump up and down on for 10 mins), press, quick filter through a cheesecloth and then chuck yeast in and let it do its thing, it has always worked out fantastic without any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;your process sounds way too complex, 15 degrees this then 12 degrees that, 2 minutes add this, 34.6 minutes twist that, oh wait I forgot to pull the thing....... seriously apple juice and yeast is all you need, then after that you can get fancy with other flavourings and the such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial products need to play with the product as the consumer is fickle, it needs to have a shelf life, colour, clarity and carbonation... This is home brew, who cares as long as it tastes good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastActivityDate="2020-09-29T14:03:27.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-29T17:23:10.353" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed a number of ales which have all turned out delicious, and recently I attempted my first Pilsner (92% Pilsner malt, 8% flaked wheat) which did not turn out how I expected. There is a prominent off-flavor, it tastes mostly like butter scotch but I can't quite put my finger on it. After the boil I chilled to room temperature and pitched Wyeast Bohemian Lager at room temperature then brought my fermentation chamber down to 55°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation Timeline&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;9/10/20 Pitch yeast at room temp, slowly bring down to fermentation temp&#xA;&#xA;9/10/20 1.056 55°F&#xA;&#xA;9/13/20 1.027 60°F (diacetyl rest)&#xA;&#xA;9/14/20 1.013 60°F&#xA;&#xA;9/19/20 1.011 35°F&#xA;&#xA;9/29/20 1.011 35°F (transfer to keg and add fining agent)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the numbers above, where did I more than likely go wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18017" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T21:40:04.137" Title="Taste diacetyl in my first Pilsner :(" Tags="|off-flavor|cold-crash|diacetyl-rest|wyeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25266" CreationDate="2020-09-30T01:25:30.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short Answer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxygenation or Yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you stir it enough to oxygenate the wort?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you use enough yeast (you must have, sorry answered this one for you)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How did you store the yeast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast age?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Longer Answer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diacetyl is made at the start of fermentation by the yeast and is absorbed towards the end of the fermentation. A brew that a weak yeast or insufficient oxygenation will produce more diacetyl than a strong/healthy yeast or well oxygenated must than the yeast can absorb and it can dominate the flavor/smell of the beer. As you said diacetyl can smell like butter or butterscotch flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diacetyl rest is usually done 2 to 5 specific gravity points away from the target gravity of the brew, the purpose is to allow the yeast to reabsorb the diacetyl that is naturally produced during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast will absorb diacetyl at cooler temperatures, the absorption will be quicker at a warmer temperature when the yeast activity is speed up. This diacetyl rest &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; (although I am not convinced) help to reduce the overall necessary aging time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all that said I always &lt;strong&gt;taste it&lt;/strong&gt; (because that is what it is about, right) before final racking/kegging/bottling and you spend any more time and money on something that could have gone 'wrong'. Taste it then if it needs a more aging, off gassing or anything else it can be adjusted easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-29T21:40:04.137" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T21:40:04.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25266" CreationDate="2020-09-30T14:58:45.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks just like a little bit rushed for the total schedule.  It wouldn't have hurt the beer any to let it finish out at the warmer temp of 60F.  Instead your data shows you started to chill it back down while it was finishing.  In the future, take a sample and taste it before chilling to lagering temp.  Take a sample and microwave it for 30 seconds and that will usually amplify any diacetyl if its there; indicating the need to go longer.  The diacetyl rest isn't something that happens perfectly by paper techniques.  Use your senses as a brewer to determine when to go to the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give it some time and it might slowly right itself.  Pull the keg out of the chill box and let it come to room temp can also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T14:58:45.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25263" CreationDate="2020-10-01T13:36:00.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK. You're brewing kit beers, so I'm assuming your wort composition has been more or less  consistent (i.e. 1 tin of hopped malt extract, 1 kg of brew blend which is mostly dextrose with some maltodextrin and some dry malt extract blended in, and water up to 23 litres / 6 gallons. That means your bottle bombs could only have a few possible causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You bottled too early. Did you get the same final gravity (typically 1.010 for MJ kit beers) every time? If not, a high FG means you're bottling too early and too much fermentation continues in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Contamination with a wild yeast that ferments sugars (typically polysaccharides and dextrins) that the regular MJ kit yeast leaves alone. Do your explosive beers taste dryer (with less body) than the non-explosive ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Overfilling the bottles. You need enough headspace under the cap so that the air can compress sufficiently when CO2 develops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say the beer tastes fine, so I'm ruling out bacterial infection on the basis of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my assumption of consistent wort composition is wrong and you have varied your ingredients, there could be a complex sugar in the mix that ferments out very slowly, so that too much fermentation is delayed until after bottling. Also note that some yeast strains struggle with some malt extracts, so some yeast/extract combinations can also lead to overcarbonated (although seldom explosive) beers. If you have varied the yeasts you use rather than use the MJ kit yeast for all beers, this &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; also be a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-10-01T13:36:00.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25147" CreationDate="2020-10-01T13:45:25.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have since had the chance to consult a brewing scientist, and the answer is simple. Grain-based fermentations and sugar fermentations produce more or less the same amount of acidity per quantity of fermentable sugar. However, in a sugar fermentation there is literally nothing (minerals, proteins, etc.) that can possibly act as an alkalinity buffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The significant acidification of a sugar wash (to the point where it inhibits fermentation) is essentially the result of the high OG in a typical sugar wash. No beers that I know of ferment out from an OG of 1.100 or so to 1.000 or less. In brewing the water is also usually mineralized which may also help to buffer the acidity slightly (although not dramatically) during fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So sugar fermentations &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; produce more organic acids per amount of sugar consumed by the yeast; there is simply more sugar in the fermenter and therefore more organic acids are produced, and no buffering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastEditorUserId="15057" LastEditDate="2020-11-24T13:25:58.290" LastActivityDate="2020-11-24T13:25:58.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25264" CreationDate="2020-10-01T15:01:54.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I learned is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After pressing the juice, add 0.04g/l metabisulfite to the juice to inhibit wild yeasts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the pectinase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pectinase works best at room temperature, and the juice should rest for 12 to 24 hours&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, add the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the pectinase because I only have small quantities of juice and pasteurise and bottle them. It works, heating them to 80° C to 90° C doesn't turn them into jelly or jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2020-10-01T15:01:54.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-02T07:40:26.967" Score="1" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two really stupid noob questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a one-gallon summer wheat beer kit on ebay. It lacks the yeast packet. From what I read, I need 0.2 ounces of brewer's yeast. And I don't have a scale that sensitive. How much yeast is this by volume? I see references to packets on here; I have a ziploc from my local brewer so that's not a useful measurement for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The last batch I made with expired yeast didn't ferment well, so at three weeks I added about a teaspoon of brewer's. Even after a good shake, it rose to the top and sat there. Granted, it's been hot. But the dead baking yeast didn't do that. Should I abandon my brewer's yeast (which is fresh) and use active dry? And if so, same question as #1:  how much? I get 5/6 teaspoon from my own calculations but don't want to waste another batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18584" LastActivityDate="2020-10-10T18:11:39.167" Title="Volume of brewer's yeast for a 1-gal. batch? Lumpy brewer's yeast?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25321" CreationDate="2020-10-02T16:29:34.227" Score="1" ViewCount="817" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard instructions are: Make your bug; brew your sweet ginger 'tea'; cool; add bug to your tea, and bottle for second fermentation; let ferment, at room temperature, to your desired level, making sure to burp every day; refrigerate--drastically slowing, but not eliminating second fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The minor detail that I'm interested in, is that I've been burping them daily, and usually 3-5 days after I start getting audible gas, I burp them one last time, so that they don't burst, and then refrigerating them.  Should I not be burping them that last time?  Should I be leaving them under some pressure while they chill, so they can absorb it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering, because the fizz that I'm getting is decent, but pretty light.  I also think I'm leaving too much headspace, but one thing at a time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18481" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T21:45:55.977" Title="When do you refrigerate your ginger beer?" Tags="|carbonation|temperature|secondary-fermentation|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24703" CreationDate="2020-10-03T13:19:29.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never seen this in less than 25L containers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is widely used in professional breweries, we buy it in 30kg containers from Murphy &amp;amp; Son.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.murphyandson.co.uk/product/peracetic-acid-5-30kg-hz/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.murphyandson.co.uk/product/peracetic-acid-5-30kg-hz/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NicheSolutions also carry it in 25L tubs - Percid 5 25L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nichesolutionsgb.co.uk/food-beverage/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.nichesolutionsgb.co.uk/food-beverage/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using PAA use it at a 3% dilution, 3 parts to 100 parts water, always add chemical to water and never water to the chemical. If you are using this make sure you are using proper PPE: coveralls, gloves and goggles it is pretty vicious stuff and will burn exposed skin and destory your eyes. Make sure you read the SDS - Saftey Data Sheet and have somewhere secure to store it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you may not be able to purchase this as an individual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-10-03T13:19:29.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25273" CreationDate="2020-10-05T11:35:30.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of yeast that you inoculate in your wort is refereed to as the &amp;quot;pitch rate&amp;quot;, meaning the number of yeast cells / mL / °P in your wort. To calculate the amount of yeast you need in your wort, you can use an online calculator like the one of brewer's friend ( &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, for 1 gallon of beer you can usually get away with half a package of dry yeast (11g/2 = 5.5g ~ 5g), that's a pitch rate of 1cells / mL / °P, which is usually what you should aim for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using the yeast from a ziplock of your local brewery, it is going to be hard to say, since you don't have the cell density of the slurry in the ziplock.&#xA;Best thing would be to ask your local brewer how much he puts in his wort or how much he would put considering your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First comment, would be to always re-hydrate your yeast in sterile water before pitching. Pitching dry yeast in wort results in most of the cells dying immediately. Second, do not aerate your wort(= shake) when it is already multiple weeks in fermentation, that can lead to various off flavors from oxydation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different yeast have different floculation properties, it is hard to say like this, maybe your did not put enough, or your other yeast is not active enough either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To ensure not ruining more batches, make sure to always use good yeast before pitching, you can test your yeast by putting some of it in a container with some left over wort or sugary water, before your actual brewing day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest way to maximize your chances is to get fresh dry brewer's yeast and use the same calculator from above, to pitch the good amount, roughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-10T18:11:39.167" LastActivityDate="2020-10-10T18:11:39.167" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25273" CreationDate="2020-10-06T00:46:36.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general rule of thumb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upto and including 3 gal, 2.5 grams or 0.0882 ounce (half packet, by eye)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over 3 gal under 5 gal, 5 grams or 0.176 ounce (whole packet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over 5 gal work it out from the above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not rocket science, let's be honest this is home brew and as it works and as the end product is drinkable, who cares...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ale/beer has been around for 5000+ years they didn't really measure out 0.0882 ounces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more yeast you add the faster and more vigorous it will ferment (to a point)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to be taking hydrometer readings, this is the only way to tell if it has started fermenting, still going or finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dried yeast &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; keep for years, if kept dry and out of sunlight!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never re-hydrated yeast or done starters, except in the case of a stalled ferment. Everything I have every brewed has been at least drinkable, Your brew and yeast cannot read and it may need a little longer than what the recipe or packet says, it may not go to your ideal plan but as long as you take hydrometer readings and taste it, you cannot go too far wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T00:46:36.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-08T02:29:53.027" Score="1" ViewCount="2262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use distilled water in wine making. Is campden necessary when I use distilled water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18506" LastActivityDate="2020-10-18T20:37:19.603" Title="Are campden tablets necessary?" Tags="|fermentation|additives|campden|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25279" CreationDate="2020-10-08T09:37:41.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using distilled/de-ionised/RO water for beer brewing or wine making then Campden tablets are not needed to knock out Cloride ions from the water as they are not there but, you may still want to use a small does of campden in wine making to inhibit wild yeasts and bacteria, if you are using raw fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And... yes there is more ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will if using RO/Deionised or distilled water need to add back salts to the water to give your yeast sufficient magnesium and zinc or other trace ions that yeast require for a healthy fermentation, and to get the correct mouthfeel for what ever you are making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I brew I know my water is low in magnesium, so I treat the liquor with epsom salts, as there is also low sulphate. I used campden to knock out chloride as the cholramine used by the water board is difficult to get rid of otherwise and can lead to medicinal flavours in final wine/beer. I also due to the high carbonate levels treat with a little lactic acid, to reduce the pH so I can reliably hit optimal mash pH; which is less of an issue in wine making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to take your water to a state of containing some ions or your mouthfeel will likely feel weak and underwhelming, and the yeast will end up stressed due to lack of trace nutrients in the form of dissolved salts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-18T20:37:19.603" LastActivityDate="2020-10-18T20:37:19.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25216" CreationDate="2020-10-08T09:43:31.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would expect a SMASH beer to have 1 fermentable and 1 hop. I would consider base malt(barley, wheat or rye) + adjunct(any thing not the base malt but fermentable) + hop to be against the ethos of a SMASH beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would then be a SMSAASH beer &lt;strong&gt;S&lt;/strong&gt;ingle &lt;strong&gt;m&lt;/strong&gt;alt, &lt;strong&gt;s&lt;/strong&gt;ingle &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt;djunct &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt;nd &lt;strong&gt;s&lt;/strong&gt;ingle &lt;strong&gt;h&lt;/strong&gt;op.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have just invented a whole new category of craft beers!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T09:43:31.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-08T13:43:02.807" Score="2" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chitosan (typically combined with kieselsol aka silicasol aka colloidal silica - think &amp;quot;Turbo Clear&amp;quot; and similar home distilling products) is an effective fining agent for sugar washes, wines, ciders and what not. It flocks out yeast from a sugar wash like nobody's business and doesn't need to bind to the tannins found in beers and wines (as opposed to, say, gelatin) which makes it eminently suitable for sugar washes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chitosan is produced cheaply from waste products of the fish industry, such as shrimp shells, squid pens and the like. Mainly due to allergy concerns (a shellfish allergy is no joke), compliance with regulations in various countries and to appeal to vegans, chitosan produced from fungi has become increasingly common, even though it tends to be considerably more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am wondering if both chitosan varieties are sufficiently similar (chemically, biologically, structurally etc.) to perform identically. Is one better than the other? If so, why? Or is there no difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T14:41:56.430" Title="Chitosan produced from crustaceae vs fungi - one better than the other?" Tags="|finings|clarification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25279" CreationDate="2020-10-08T13:52:10.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Campden (or rather sodium meta-bisulphite, which is its active ingredient) serves multiple purposes in wine making. It removes chloramine from municipal tap water, but in your case that is unnecessary since you use chlorine-free water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It serves as a microbial inactivator, which means that in low acidity musts (i.e. insufficient acidity to keep microbes in check) it helps to prevent microbial infections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It serves as an oxygen scavenger, which means it acts as a wine stabilizer that prevents oxidation. In commercial wine making it is commonly used for this purpose, the 'Contains sulphites' notice on the back of bottle refers to sodium or potassium metabisulphite, i.e. Campden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So even if you don't need Campden to de-chlorinate your water, it can still be useful in wine making for other purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T13:52:10.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25282" CreationDate="2020-10-08T14:41:56.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting. I'm not that kind of scientist but I was curious so dug a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.platergroup.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;product_id=48&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; about the particular product- and it does have a pretty thorough technical data sheet with compound data. It appears it forms a normal chitosan compound, it's simply derived differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're based in the UK, you might actually be able to get a hold of this stuff somehow. The labels mentions it's a fungicide- but the tech sheet specifically mentions its use of a fining in brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically I'm not sure how it could function &amp;quot;better&amp;quot; than chitosan. Not in a chemical sense, but in a functional brewing since. If you're already using chito+kieselsol- I'm not sure how you could get your beer clearer, faster. That is, if you can't visually discern the difference in &amp;quot;clarity&amp;quot; between two beers without a microscope I'd consider that equal quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A technical difference here would probably not come into play until you're dealing with really, really, really massive brewing system and it affects how you calibrate your filter plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T14:41:56.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25286" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-13T21:44:58.357" Score="1" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've asked this question before and tried the only suggestion I received. My last batch of strawberry/peach was only marginally better by freezing the fruit prior to brewing. I do better using concentrate, but I don't know how to improve the body when brewing with concentrates. Grrrr, what am I missing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13288" LastActivityDate="2023-08-27T10:08:49.110" Title="Why do my fresh fruit wine's finish with no body or flavor" Tags="|flavor|body|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25289" CreationDate="2020-10-14T00:42:13.497" Score="4" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;How is a starter different than what's going on in my 5gal fermentation vessel? From what I understand, a starter is you just making a mini beer, allowing yeast cells to multiply... But, why doesn't the same thing happen (yeast multiplying) if you pitch a small amount of yeast into 5 gallons of wort? There's plenty of sugars in my wort - why isn't the yeast multiplying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard of people taking the yeast after fermentation and using it for another beer... That seems like it's active and usable still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask - I'm in the middle of a homebrew where I pitched a liquid yeast into a 1.057, did NOT use a starter, and when I measured SG at the three week point, it only came down to 1.027.   A homebrew friend of mine suggested I underpitched, so I took another liquid yeast in fridge, created a starter, ... and pitched that today into the wort.   Airlock activity has absolutely increased - I'll measure gravity in a couple days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as I did this, I'm just so confused - why does 100G of DME per liter allow yeast to multiply but the yeast I pitched into 5 gal of 1.057 not multiply (enough)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Yes, I'm a noob)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15663" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T14:08:46.350" Title="Why is a yeast starter necessary? How is it different than standard fermentation?" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25287" CreationDate="2020-10-14T14:08:46.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point of a starter is to obtain a higher and healthier yeast count before you pitch into the wort. This is accomplished because the 100g of DME/Liter create enough sugar for the yeast to reproduce while also not inducing an osmotic shock from the change in environment. The same thing happens if you pitch yeast from the package into the wort, except for the fact that your yeast count will be lower. My two cents is that there wasn't enough healthy yeast in the package pitched, and that caused a stressed or stalled ferment. As for reusing yeast, there are methods, but I never bother with it, so I can't help you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T14:08:46.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25286" CreationDate="2020-10-14T14:14:22.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of body, you need a balance of acids, tannins, and sugars. If these three are balanced correctly, your wine will have better body. As for flavor, freezing the fruit is a good way to go, but I suggest lowering your water content to get more of the fruit in there, which will inevitably give you a stronger flavor. An increase in the sugar may also help find the flavors that you think the wine is lacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T14:14:22.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25300" CreationDate="2020-10-15T18:46:31.293" Score="2" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m struggling (again) to make sense of my Hydrometer.  I am brewing an American IPA from a kit. I started on Sunday and before pitching the yeast I took a reading (photo 1),  I had 24 hours crazy fermentation, then nothing.  Barely a bubble.  Today (Thursday  - Day 4) I took anther reading (photo 2).  Something has definitely happened and it floats a lot lower! I am meant to be adding hops on day 7 and tasting it on day 10.  Am I on track with this reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, sorry for the really basic question, but why does my potential alcohol scale on my hydrometer appear to go in reverse I.e it started at 6% and is now nearer 0% after fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fpmX0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fpmX0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Original reading&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/isnIQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/isnIQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Day 4 reading&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15244" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T22:57:41.863" Title="Still struggling to read my Hydrometer" Tags="|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25291" CreationDate="2020-10-15T19:28:26.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how to answer your first question, but I can answer your second question. A hydrometer doesn't measure potential alcohol; that's something we as the user derive from the information. What the hydrometer does do is measure the gravity (density) of the wort. Starting at 1.000 is water, but because sugar is heavier than water, any added sugar raises the density. A hydrometer allows us to quantify how much change in density has occurred, thus telling us how much alcohol has been made and sugar consumed by the yeast. That is why your hydrometer scale appears to go in reverse, because the yeast are making the liquid less dense through consumption of sugar and producing an alcoholic solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2020-10-15T19:28:26.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-15T20:11:38.107" Score="2" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to exchange my first CO2 tank and when I went to connect the regulator to the new tank I am able to screw it on but there is still a leak from the connection not matter the tightness. Is this something that I can fix or is this a problem with the tank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18618" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T18:57:52.427" Title="new CO2 leak at regulator connection" Tags="|carbonation|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25293" CreationDate="2020-10-16T10:35:26.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should get a new tank, unless you suspect a problem with the regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-10-16T10:35:26.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20476" CreationDate="2020-10-17T18:14:48.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems easy enough to just do a primary fermentation, and add a splash of whey or other probiotics and just brew a few days like you would Kvass. I do with chopped apples in water all the time and just pour a bit of my Fennel/Cucumber Kvass in it for probiotics, so I don't know why you couldn't do it with cider. I ferment just 3 days and it's majority of bubbling is over. I'd personally cut the cider in half so it not so heavy, but that's just me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18623" LastActivityDate="2020-10-17T18:14:48.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25291" CreationDate="2020-10-20T22:57:41.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand a little bit on @czernina's correct answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydrometers measure &lt;strong&gt;specific gravity&lt;/strong&gt;, defined as the ratio of the density of a substance to the density of a given reference material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our case, the reference material is plain water at 60 degrees F, which we read as 1.000. So the closer we are to 1.000, the less sugar is left in solution. The higher the number, the more sugar is in solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to make sure your wort sample is cooled to around 60F. You can use a chart to adjust your reading based on temperature, but in my experience the closer you get to 60, the more accurate your readings will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at your first picture, your reading is 1.056. This would be your &lt;strong&gt;starting gravity&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;original gravity.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your second reading looks 1.016. This would be your &lt;strong&gt;final gravity,&lt;/strong&gt; assuming your yeast has finished eating all the sugar it wants to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: if you want to be sure the yeast is done doing its thing, take another gravity reading in a few days and see if it changes. If it hasn't, then you know your beer is done fermenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is your final gravity lower? Because your yeast has consumed much of the sugar in your wort and converted it to alcohol (and CO2, but most of that bubbled off into the atmosphere). Your wort has less sugar, so is less dense, so your hydrometer doesn't float as high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to calculate the alcohol from these numbers is a little complicated (&lt;strong&gt;you can't just use the % on the hydrometer&lt;/strong&gt;), so use your favorite search engine and find a beer ABV calculator, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one at Brewer's Friend.&lt;/a&gt; Or do what I do and use software like Beersmith to do all the calculations for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will tell you that your ABV is a little over 5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QZiK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QZiK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Gravity Action&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T22:57:41.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24703" CreationDate="2020-10-20T23:04:04.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know where you're located, but speaking as a professional brewer, I'm willing to bet if you asked your local brewery (especially one you frequent!) for a pint Mason jar of peracetic and offered to pay for it, we'd be more than happy to help out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring your own pint jar :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T23:04:04.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-21T02:18:00.723" Score="2" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pressed apple cider last year and added nothing.... I just left it in 15 liter jugs covered with cheese cloth and paper towel... it smells like alcoholic cider, tastes pretty good, and is dark rich color.... is it safe ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18635" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T03:05:01.010" Title="Is my home made cider safe?" Tags="|fermentation|cider|first-time-brewer|bacteria|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-22T13:11:48.977" Score="2" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making cider...&#xA;We had pressed apples and put juice in a container with a lid (airtight) (forgot about bubbler).&#xA;Added the yeast after 1 day.&#xA;Changed the lid on day 2 to one with a bubbler.&#xA;On day 4, doesn't appear to be any fermentation.  Should I be worried?&#xA;Thanks,&#xA;Rachel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18636" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T20:53:27.447" Title="Problem with cider not fermenting" Tags="|fermentation|cider|airlock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25263" CreationDate="2020-10-22T19:20:33.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this same issue. We were using brown bottles that were given to us by friends and family. We started noticing that all the bottle bombs we had were all from one brand of beer. We promptly drank the rest that had not exploded, and then recycled the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17012" LastActivityDate="2020-10-22T19:20:33.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25303" CreationDate="2020-10-23T14:57:01.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, I usually don't begin to see CO2 bubbles until days 3 or 4. Usually by the end of a week you should have pretty aggressive fermentation. I usually keep my Cider fermenting on a temperature that is the lowest that the yeast supports on the packet as I find that the fermentation is &amp;quot;cleaner&amp;quot; and I believe yeast will produce more &amp;quot;fusel&amp;quot; alcohols at higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Factors at play&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factors that will affect yeast starting activity are temperature, starter yeast amount, and pitching stress (in decreasing order of impact). If you poured the yeast directly into the cider, the sugar in the juice can cause osmotic stress to the yeast (I recommend gently rehydrating it in a bit of water with a sprinkle of sugar first and I even do this to my baker's yeast for bread). Combine this with very low temperature (50° F) and it could possibly take up to 1.5-2 weeks to see any visible activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have coincidently done &amp;quot;unintentional lambics&amp;quot; by keeping a UV pasteurized fresh pressed honey crisp cider in a very cold garage and I didn't notice fermentation for a while. If you are doing your fermentation at a very low temperature it may take a very long time for it to start. I think if you can't see any activity; Hydrometer readings (as Robert suggested) are probably the only surefire way to see if yeast is converting sugar to alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, if you are using commercial brewing yeast (hopefully you aren't using baking yeast) you should follow the instructions on the packet, and I recommend brewing at the lowest optimal temperature for the best flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15611" LastActivityDate="2020-10-23T14:57:01.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25302" CreationDate="2020-10-23T15:15:44.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The human senses are actually very fine tuned to alert you to the presence of bacteria and mold and prevent botulism (though I think you probably understand this implicitly and just want an authoritative answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, &lt;strong&gt;look at your brew&lt;/strong&gt;. Infection will typically manifest as black spots or a layer of pellicle on the top of the drink. Second, &lt;strong&gt;smell it&lt;/strong&gt; -- any off-putting smells will alert you to any infection. &lt;strong&gt;Finally, taste it&lt;/strong&gt; -- if your cider tastes pretty good, this is a good indication that your brew is coming along well. Your cider should taste clean almost like the wine from the store (which is sometimes considered a compliment to homebrewers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things I have found helpful in determining quality is the addition of pectinase (pectin enzyme) as this allows the cider to be crystal clear by dissolving the fruit pectin's (that cause cloudy-ness) into sugar. This is the best way to quickly troubleshoot if a brew is safe (as simply not being clear will alert you to issues) and in addition, will help convince anyone you give your homebrew to that it is, indeed, safe to drink. Keep in mind pectinase takes some time to work, and you need your yeast to fall out of suspension (when it all goes to the bottom as a layer of sediment) before you can check it in such a manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the addition of pectinase, my cider actually turns out even more clear and translucent than when I buy the juice fresh from the store, which I find to be more visually appealing than the hazy version you get without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra note: I noticed you did lambics but you seem pretty new to homebrewing. Please note that you need to store your cider in an airtight container when you are finished fermenting to prevent yourself from ending up with apple cider &lt;em&gt;vinegar&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15611" LastEditorUserId="15611" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T03:05:01.010" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T03:05:01.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-23T19:34:37.383" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just starting my ginger bug. On day three and it has started growing light green mold on some of the ginger pieces at the top. I have it in a 1 L jar with an airlock. This exact thing happened the last time I tried to start a ginger bug just a couple weeks ago. Any ideas for how to keep the ginger pieces below the water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18644" LastEditorUserId="18396" LastEditDate="2020-10-29T21:31:31.650" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T21:31:31.650" Title="Light green mold on the top" Tags="|ginger|mold|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-24T16:09:33.453" Score="4" ViewCount="1795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found some good SMaSh IPA recipes, mainly using Safale US-05. Unfortunately I live in a small apartment house and the room temperature is approximately 22-23 °C degree (~71-73 °F), so the temperature inside the fermentor can be up to 25-26 °C (77-79 °F) and the internet told me that it is not pretty ideal for this yeast despite the fact that the temperature range of US-05 is 12-25 °C. I can't really (and hardly want to) change the room temperature down to the ideal ~18-20 °C (~65-68 °F), though I could try to use a fan and a wet t-shirt to do the job for the fermentor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I was wondering if someone tried Voss Kveik yeast for IPA recipes and if the result was &amp;quot;IPAish&amp;quot; enough? For example in my country Mangrove Jack's M12 is available (it is pretty new as I see) and it has a temperature range between 20-40 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any opinions from more experiences brewers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried Kveik at ~24 °C, it was really active for 24-36 hours, but now, after 2 weeks it seems, that it's stuck at 1.020 (I measured 1 week ago, also 1.020). The original recipe was with US-05, so I'm not sure, but FG should be somewhere at 1.015 or a bit lower. I tried warming up and shaking the fermenter, but it had no result. I want to dry hop soon or later, so I will be thankful for some other tips. Though, the beer is also delicious now with this gravity, I don't want my bottles to explode later...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18564" LastEditorUserId="18564" LastEditDate="2020-11-14T15:46:46.727" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T07:25:38.070" Title="Kveik yeast instead of US-05?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|ipa|smash|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25308" CreationDate="2020-10-24T20:02:25.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done a couple of brews with Voss Kevik and I think it would work well. I have used it in the past, not in IPAs, but I see no reason why it should not work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got a big batch of brewing next week with a combo of S04, Brett C and Kevik, touch of hops and a big bag of non-hop botanicals. I really like Kevik as a yeast and should probably use it more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-10-24T20:02:25.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25308" CreationDate="2020-10-25T15:57:52.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We did a &amp;quot;Farmhouse IPA&amp;quot; a year or so ago with &lt;a href=&quot;https://omegayeast.com/yeast/norwegian-kveik/voss-kveik&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Omega's Voss Kveik&lt;/a&gt; yeast and fermented it at 90°F. I was pleasantly surprised with how clean it was. It had the expected citrus-y notes, and paired nicely with 3+ lbs. per barrel of dry-hopping, too (Simcoe, Citra, Galaxy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;IPAish enough&amp;quot; is clearly a subjective term. If you're looking for something &lt;em&gt;classic&lt;/em&gt; (British, West Coast American, New England &amp;amp;c), that's definitely not what you'll get, though it may well be close enough for your taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will depend on your exact process, but fermenting warm (and if you don't practice any temperature control this yeast certainly can and will rip) will strip out a lot of any aromatics coming from late kettle hop additions, so expect less of that character to come through. For dry-hopping, though, it'll behave like any other beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this yeast gave a nice &lt;em&gt;umami&lt;/em&gt; character (kind of hard to describe it otherwise), was not at all boozy/fusel-y, and the beer overall was really nice (IMO..), just totally distinct from what it would have been with a US05 (or equivalent) yeast fermenting at 66-70°F. But I love the idea of suiting your process to what's available to you at any given point. I think it's smart in general, and makes for a unique end-product that better reflects your brewing circumstances, as opposed to trying to force a process that you have reason to believe won't work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastActivityDate="2020-10-25T15:57:52.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-27T03:27:40.420" Score="2" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just recently started up home brewing and wanted to know what is better to use in terms of yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my local supplier has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aussiebrewmakers.com.au/product/alcotec-48-hour-turbo-yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alcotec&lt;/a&gt;, does this suffice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18647" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T13:28:05.223" Title="Alcotec VS Still Spirits" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25311" CreationDate="2020-10-27T13:28:05.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it depends what you're making. Alcotec is distillers yeast- I really wouldn't recommend it for use if you're not running whatever you make through a still. However your title mentions Still Spirits (This is a small distillation unit - is that correct?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can say Alcotec is a great brand of distillers yeast and typically works as well as advertised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T13:28:05.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24857" CreationDate="2020-10-27T13:56:15.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also use a standard &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-Run-11-Glass-Heat-Resistant-Baster-Rubber-Bulb-Kitchen-Cooking-Utensil-5678-/391575785461&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cooking baster&lt;/a&gt; to transfer liquid to your hydrometer vessel, but I'd recommend one that's made of glass and has a removable rubber bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18649" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T13:56:15.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-27T14:27:11.223" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to brewing beer and want to keep a close eye on SG, but I'm mindful of the potential cost when taking several hydrometer readings. Assuming all my equipment is sterilised, is it OK to return the sample back to the fermenter, or should I err on the side of caution and discard it each time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sake of completeness: my sterilisation process consists of soaking the cleaned equipment (hydrometer, wine thief, sample tube, etc) in warm water with a dash of Milton liquid and then rinsing with clean water. When I make cider I'm less worried about wastage since my quantities are bigger and at any rate I get to drink the sample when I'm done measuring, but my beer's less tasty at this early stage and I'd prefer to let every drop mature fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I'm aware this question was &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/24/sterilisation-processes-when-taking-hydrometer-readings&quot;&gt;asked in a roundabout way 9 years ago&lt;/a&gt; but it didn't attract a significant amount of traffic, potentially due to the choice of Title.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any insights you can give me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18649" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T09:40:42.820" Title="Hydrometer reading - should I discard or reintroduce the sample?" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|hydrometer|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25314" CreationDate="2020-10-27T15:06:50.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I typically return my sample after taking a reading. If your sanitation is appropriate then you wont have any issues. However, you mention that you rinse with water after sanitizing. I dont believe that's ideal, you are potentially reintroducing bacteria. Once soaked with the sanitising solution, you just leave it dry. That being said I use starsan rather than milton so perhaps there is an important difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17990" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T15:06:50.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25308" CreationDate="2020-10-28T04:18:35.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last Australian summer I did a few brews with Lallemand brand Kveik dry yeast at ambient temperatures around 26degC (79degF); actual fermentation got to between 28-29degC (82-84degF) according to my laser thermometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results were excellent. Clean tasting beer and no off flavours whatsoever. Kveik is described as a neutral yeast, and my results support that claim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No more swamp coolers for me in summer. Hooray!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2020-10-28T04:18:35.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25314" CreationDate="2020-10-28T18:33:15.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think if you're taking so many hydrometer samples that it's having a noticeable impact on the mass of your final product- you're messing with your beer too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know as a new brewer it's really tempting to keep popping open the lid and checking things, but it typically isn't necessary, and can be harmful. You're more likely to introduce infection- or perhaps just as bad- oxidize your beer badly when thiefing or pouring the sample back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However- every brewer has their own preferred methods. And if you do properly sanitize all of your equipment- then it should be fine to thief and reintroduce your sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-10-28T18:33:15.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-28T20:42:05.463" Score="0" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently attended a rum making class with the intention of taking what I had learned and applying it to my own process... unfortunately (or fortunately ) we were plied with so much rum that I can’t remember the measures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m hoping someone can help fill in the gaps! The intention is to start with a base rum and create a spiced rum at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.copper-alembic.com/en/small-distilling-unit-stills/25-l-distilling-column-alembic-premium-thermometer-electric-plate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;alembic distillers&lt;/a&gt; and started with a 700ml base rum. We added our ingredients/flavours to the pot, along with the base rum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we heated it up, the process began and we started to fill up a small beaker with the head, &lt;strong&gt;I think this was 50ml&lt;/strong&gt;, does that sound about right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once we poured off the head, we started filling another beaker with the heart (the part that we’re keeping). Again, not sure how much this should be? Once it hit that point we kept it and set it aside. The tail then continued into another beaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the head and tail were discarded, the heart was then mixed with water to create a 700ml bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d love it if anyone could help with how the measurements of the head and heart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18651" LastEditorUserId="18651" LastEditDate="2020-10-29T10:13:02.323" LastActivityDate="2021-09-13T04:09:25.753" Title="Distilling rum - measurements for the head and heart" Tags="|distillation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12836" CreationDate="2020-10-29T18:49:47.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make apple cider from scratch from my tart mcIntosh apples. I crush the apples with the blender, I don't add a lot of sugar (4-5 cups),in a 5 gallon bucket and let it sit for 2-3weeks. I strain it and put it in a carboy and top it up with, your choice, either unpasteurized organic apple juice(this will make it sweeter) or fresh spring water(NOT tap). I don't add yeast as I only rinse my apples and use the natural yeast that's on the fruit. I syphon the cider a couple of times from one carboy to another until it's fairly clear. If it's too cloudy for you, mix some regular gelatin with water and add it in the cider. Within 24-48 hours it will start to clear up, change carboy and if you want you can do it again. My cider is tart and crisp, not for the faint of heart if you like sweet. As for carbonation, first off, I use flip top heavy brown glass bottles(well worth the investment). When I'm ready to bottle I add a teaspoon of sugar to each bottle(500ml or pint) , fill to 1.5-2 inches from top, close and wait. If you want it sweet, add unfermentable sugars but still add 1 tsp of sugar for bubbles. It pours with froth and foam like a beer. What a pleasure. Pour in your glass from high for a full effect. That's how they do it in Spain. I don't use anything to stop fermentation but then again I don't add yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18652" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T18:49:47.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25318" CreationDate="2020-10-29T21:22:44.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You may not be able to legally distill at home.&lt;/strong&gt; Check local regulations before starting home distillation. Also, always do it in a well ventilated area as you can build up alcohol vapour and this can lead to an explosion (one of the main reason this is well regulated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of heads and tails discarded depends on a number of factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a shop bought spirit as your base spirit you should not need to discard anything, the distiller who produced the base spirit for retail will have done this for you. you also don't need to distill or reflux this, you can warm it with sugar/spice/herbs in a pan with a lid, keep it below 60C (140F) then let it cool, filter and bottle. No distillation needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are purchasing wholesale base spirit that has ony been distilled once, or twice with some roughness left, then you need to do some basic maths; I will have to pull down some reference books for exact details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strength of the base spirit and your target distillate strength will dictate at what temperatures you start and finish collecting your heart cut. If your base is a know quantity, as it will have been on your course, then they will have been abale to simplify the process to discard X ml, collect Y ml, the discard the rest. But to work this out for a different base spirit depends what you want in the finished product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps. Will try update with some proper figures when I pull out the distilling books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T09:34:12.693" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T09:34:12.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25274" CreationDate="2020-10-29T21:45:55.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the end product you are getting is nicely carbonated and you are not getting bottle bombs, and you like it then it sounds like you are doing it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make my ginger beer far more like a fruit wine, but I have friends that follow a method very similar to the one you mentioned and their ginger beers are also very tasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it works stick with it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T21:45:55.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25163" CreationDate="2020-10-29T21:53:44.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a quick search for wholesale suppliers, some of these come in case of 12 - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kinnek.com/industry/brewery/beer-bottles/?npc=3&amp;amp;page=1&amp;amp;sortby=relevance&amp;amp;tag=2197&amp;amp;bnode=22&amp;amp;source_detail=search&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.kinnek.com/industry/brewery/beer-bottles/?npc=3&amp;amp;page=1&amp;amp;sortby=relevance&amp;amp;tag=2197&amp;amp;bnode=22&amp;amp;source_detail=search&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T21:53:44.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25314" CreationDate="2020-10-30T09:40:42.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would always discard the sample and I would advise you that you should discard the sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have taken it out of the sanitized low oxygen, low pH environment, put things in it, breathed on it. It is not worth the risk for a pint/half litre of beer. Just bin it. you may take 3/4 readings loosing 2 pints at most over a brew. Why risk the rest of the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can have sanitised, even sterilised your equipment, but bacteria and natural yeasts floating in the air can land in the sample and the comtaminate your batch, again why take the risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T09:40:42.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25308" CreationDate="2020-10-30T09:59:48.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used Omega Lutra Kveik on a Bells THA clone last month and it turned out great. There is usually this slippery mouthfeel with the US-05 which wasn't there with the Lutra. I couldn't believe how clean the beer was when transferring. Be prepared for a blow off tube though. Fermentation was done at room temp which varied 72F to 75F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(update) I had a couple pints last night from my Lutra batch and thought I would come back to mention I do not find any 'fruity' or off-flavors in the finished beer. Sometimes people say these flavors are present when fermenting with Kveik at higher temps but I do not taste these. I would guess 75F was not high enough to produce them. I also chilled the wort down to 75F when pictching where some people pitch in the 80s and 90s and ferment at those temps as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastEditorUserId="18216" LastEditDate="2020-10-31T11:33:31.150" LastActivityDate="2020-10-31T11:33:31.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-31T22:36:07.440" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making hard sparkling apple cider using the Champagne method (re-fermenting on the bottle for carbonation). This year I will try the full method of also removing the yeast lees from the bottle afterwards, which I have previously just left there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm wondering why one would actually go through all the hassle of the classical &amp;quot;Remuage&amp;quot;. instead of just placing the bottle upside down directly for some days after the fermentation has finished in the bottle, to let the lees sink to the cork. Why all the turning and angling, what is it good for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The classical method briefly:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In the classical method removing the lees (called Remuage) involves placing the bottles horizontally for the initial 2nd fermentation, then slowly over a period of some months lowering the bottle neck to eventually a 75 degrees position while turning the bottles 25 times. Then eventually popping off the bottle cap/cork to remove the lees which by then has settled on to of the cork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I wanna do instead (because it's much easier):&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;After bottling the champagne bottles with a small amount of sugar for 2nd fermentation in the bottles (to build up carbonation), I will just rest the bottles horizontally for a couple of months. Then, maybe a week before popping the caps to remove the lees, I would place them vertically (upside down) to let the lees fall to the caps. To me that seems to be at least as effective as the classical method for removing the lees - but then - why do all the champagne producers do it the other way? What is it that I'm not seeing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope someone can cast some insightful light on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18657" LastActivityDate="2020-10-31T22:36:07.440" Title="Champagne/Cider Remuage: Why not just place the bottle upside down (90 degrees)?" Tags="|fermentation|bottling|techniques|lees|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15080" CreationDate="2020-11-01T01:46:32.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Main issue in my conical the amount of trub on the angle towards the trub jar. I waited 3 days to dump and jar was filled. After 2nd dump a thinner layer of the trub was still on the Angled sides. Trub jar now is roughly 1/3 full but I'm thinking I'll leave the yeast clean up after itself and wait a few more days. I'm seriously trying (against the norm) like open I g fermenter and slowly scraping the Angled sides with a plastic spatula. Hey, if it works, cool if not, well live and learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18658" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T01:46:32.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-01T03:18:20.293" Score="1" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created 3 liters of pomegranate wine. I think I put excess sugar. Have taken the wine after 24 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wine came out pretty well, but its little sugary, is there a way to decrease the sugar content?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to create a new batch with less sugar and mix the new wine with old one, will that work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other way to reduce sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18659" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T16:54:15.037" Title="Reduce excess wine sugar" Tags="|wine|sugar|fruit-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25327" CreationDate="2020-11-01T16:54:15.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can blend old and new wine to create a different wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could pitch in a high attenuating yeast or one with a higher alcohol tolerance. Also, if you transfer to secondary and leave for a couple of weeks, sometimes the small amount of extra DO you pick up in transfer can restart a stalled fermentation and allow it to run to completion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know what your starting and finishing garivities were?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What yeast are you using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you use concentrate, a kit etc...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T16:54:15.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25286" CreationDate="2020-11-02T13:37:27.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read a article a few years ago, sorry can't recall citation, that stated ~70% of the flavour compunds in a wine are from the yeast and formed during fermentation, so my advice would be for flavour choose a different yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The body of a wine comes from a few factors: residual sugar levels, acids, tannins, and your water chemistry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tannins&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strawberries and Peach are both low in tannins, so you may want to add some  a couple of cups of strong/stewed black tea to your next brew. The tea will provide the tannins that would usually come from with the skins of the fruits: grapes, apples, pears, plums, sloes, or from againg in oak. You could also try aging the wine is secondary on some home brew oak chips for a couple of weeks. You can also purchase grape tannis, and add these to the must at about 1 teaspoon per 5 litres. Can also add in rasins to the must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sugars&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fruits you are using are rich in simple sugars then you will likely have very little sugar left at the end. This can lead to very flat feeling wines. You can up the pre ferementation sugar levels to ensure that when the alcohol tolerance for the yeast is reached there will be enough sugar left to give some body. You can do this by using more fruit to water, or adding sugar to the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yeast&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a huge selection of wine yeasts on the market, select one that you know and like or one that is pair with a wine that you think would complemented by peaches and strawberries. Maybe a yeast like &lt;a href=&quot;https://wyeastlab.com/yeast-strain/fruity-white&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WyYeast: 4242&lt;/a&gt; might help out with the falvour profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your water is low in Cholride ions, this can lessen the mouthfeel. Adding a tiny amount of common table salt to yhe wine post fermentation can sometimes radically alter the feel and flavour perception. We are talking tiny additions like 1g/5litres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acids&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like a blend of acids, malic, citric, lactic which I use to get the pH of the must to ~3.2. The acidty can greatly affect your perception of the other elements and also affect fermentation. Sorting out the pH can have a huge impact of your perception of the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe For Strawberry wine from C.J.J. Berry - First Steps in Winemaking p175&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2Kg - Strawberries&#xA;1.5kg - Sugar&#xA;1 teaspoon - Citric acid&#xA;1 teaspoon - Grape tannins&#xA;made up to 4.5 litres of must&#xA;yeast + nutrient&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T13:37:27.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-02T13:49:54.563" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;My batch of wine has been stabilized, degassed, and clarified. It is in the last stage before bottling and a film has appeared on the top at the edge on the glass. Also, there are a few bubbles on the surface of the wine. It smells fine and the filmy deposit looks like a yeast overgrowth rather than bacteria. Is my wine ruined or should I bottle as usual?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18663" LastActivityDate="2023-06-08T12:04:25.557" Title="Last stage before bottling. Film appeared around top edge on glass and a few bubbles on surface" Tags="|wine|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-03T05:14:33.300" Score="2" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;How fast can the fermentation take? Can it be completed in 3 or 4 days? I took my sg reading and it was 1.1. I added D47 yeast along with nutrients and enzymes. Didn't seem to start so I took a small sample of it to restart it. It went crazy for a couple days and than stopped. Thinking nothing about it I repeated it again. Nothing happened so I took a sg again. It was 1.01. Is that possible in 4 days time? If so is it still good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18664" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T08:30:43.170" Title="Mead fermentation" Tags="|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25334" CreationDate="2020-11-03T08:30:43.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, fermentation can be over it 3/4 days. 1100 to 1010 is 90 point drop over 4 days is a very rapid fermentation and I would expect the brew got rather warm, due to the heat generated by the yeast chewing through all that sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may still be good, but there is a chance your yeast will have got a bit too warm and produdced some more esters than usual. For some yeasts this can be great for others, can be less desirable. I would suggest having a small taste. The temp range for this yeast is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/docs/products/tds/TDS_LALVIN_D47_ENG_DIGITAL.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;15-30°C (59-86°F)&lt;/a&gt;, and it is described as a vigarous yeast by Northern brewer; given this it should all be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience of mead is that it is best to keep around 18-20 C like an ale, and once finished, bottle and leave for at least 2 weeks before consuming. Some meads I have left for a few years in corked wine bottles, and it kept evolving, I would not say got better as it really depends what you like, but it was all drinkable after 2 weeks in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T08:30:43.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13255" CreationDate="2020-11-04T19:36:05.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are small home kegerators on the market.&#xA;For example, this home kegerator can be installed even in a tight corner of your house &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beveragecraft.com/home-kegerator-full-size-includes-1-tap-tower/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.beveragecraft.com/home-kegerator-full-size-includes-1-tap-tower/&lt;/a&gt; And what I like about it you can move it around on casters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18672" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T19:36:05.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21941" CreationDate="2020-11-06T09:54:33.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Homemade Ragi(Borneo style) – Yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ingredients:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Root Ginger 200g thinly sliced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lengkuas(Galanggal) 200g thinly sliced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Garlic clove&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Tbsp finely crushed white pepper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Tsp cinnamon powder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glutinous rice flour 400g&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making the paste&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transfer the root ginger, lengkuas (Galanggal), Garlic cloves, crushed white pepper and cinnamon powder into a blender. Add half cup of water and blend to a fine and smooth paste. Or just finely pound the ingredients without a blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix the paste above with the glutinous rice flour in a dough machine bowl. Let the machine run for 3 - 5 minutes.  Once done, cover the dough with a wine or cheese cloth let it rest for at least 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start making ping-pong size yeast balls. It can also be flattened to speed up drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yeast balls will then be left to dry at room temperature for five days before bringing it out to dry whole day under the sun.Or until you are completely satisfied it has dried up. Keep in airtight jar or container in a cool dry place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knead the paste and flour manually if you don’t have dough making machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note. Japanese Koji normally have one fungus whereas its Chinese counterpart and this recipe I posted here could have tens if not hundreds of microbes and enzyme in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18676" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T09:54:33.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-06T18:56:30.177" Score="0" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am first time distiller, my first mash is seven days in. The mash started out foamy and bubbling now today the foam is gone and no more bubbling. I checked TR but it’s ready 0, I am wondering what to do next, add more yeast,yeast nutrient, heat I’m not sure if this is how it should be or if it is ruined. Any help would be greatly appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18678" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T18:56:30.177" Title="Low TR first mash" Tags="|fermentation|mash|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18170" CreationDate="2020-11-06T20:51:34.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seriously,&#xA;Just throw it into a keg, slap the CO2 on it...Wait a Week... Pour a pint, throw it out, pour another pint, and enjoy!&#xA;Don't make it harder than it is, or any more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18679" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T20:51:34.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-06T22:31:29.863" Score="2" ViewCount="839" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does distilling mead produce methanol/how much comes off in the first run? So much conflicting info!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;18l (ish) of mead started through a pot still &amp;amp; thumper keg until 1.8l (ish) distillate collected, then stopped the still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Distillate collected in 5 batches: 250ml then 400ml X 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plans for making a blend with some of the remains in the still, and some of the collected batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batches all look/smell/taste similar, safe to assume discarding the 250ml leaves the remaining 1.6l distillate usable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18680" LastEditorUserId="17594" LastEditDate="2020-12-27T01:13:05.917" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T02:54:31.940" Title="Safe distilling of mead?" Tags="|mead|safety|distillation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5447" CreationDate="2020-11-06T23:55:11.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a couple of 1 gallon batches to see what it would do, and they came out decent.  I've found that Agave nectar can be tricky to ferment, and it takes a long time.  If you proceed as if you are making mead, you should get decent results.  I also recommend a yeast nutrient.  I found about 4 lbs. of raw, blue agave nectar per gallon works well.  My first 1 gallon batch fermented very slowly for several months before I bottled it.  It was pretty sweet, and had some tequila notes to it.  I didn't check the gravity at any point in the process, and in retrospect I'm convinced the fermentation had stalled.  For the second 1 gallon batch, I used amber agave nectar, and again 4 lbs. for a 1 gallon batch.  The fermentation was very similar, in that it was slow and took months.  The result was much drier than the first batch, but still quite drinkable.  It didn't have the tequila notes of the first batch and more resembled a white wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I went and made a 5 gallon batch.  I used not quite 20 lbs. of raw blue agave nectar.  I boiled the water to kill off any organisms and mixed in the agave when the water had cooled down to about 140°F, and transferred it to the fermenter after it had cooled overnight.  Initial gravity was 1.069.  I started out with Lalvin K1-V1116 yeast, but it stalled after a couple weeks.  I added a pack of EC1118 and made a nutrient from bread yeast, lime peel and a teabag, all boiled for 20 minutes.  The fermentation re-started, and was more vigorous than the previous 2 batches.  After a couple weeks, the fermentation had slowed, but not stopped, so I transferred it to a secondary fermenter.  I continued to see a bubble every 30 seconds or so out of the airlock for a couple more months, and it finally stopped another month later.  My final gravity was 0.99.   The result was similar to the first batch, but not as sweet.  I'm very happy with the results, and everybody I've let try it wanted a bottle.  I'm going to let some of this batch age and see if it improves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18681" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T23:55:11.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-07T15:53:50.103" Score="6" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making homebrew for 8 years now. Recently, (over the last 8 months or so) I've noticed that in almost all of my beers, there is a distinct clove-like aftertaste. I assume that there is an off-flavor coming from somewhere, but I'm not quite sure how to track down &lt;em&gt;where&lt;/em&gt; it's coming from. It's an uphill battle, too, because I'm especially sensitive to this aftertaste and don't like it. Others to whom I give my beers don't seem to mind it, but I guess I don't brew beer as much for others as for myself to drink, and it's gotten to the point where it's almost undrinkable for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded my system to a Sabco BrewMagic system, and, for the most part, the results have been pretty good. For better or worse, I also purchased a Chill Wizard: &lt;a href=&quot;https://brewmagic.com/products/chill-wizard-system/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://brewmagic.com/products/chill-wizard-system/&lt;/a&gt; I say &amp;quot;for better or worse&amp;quot; because the thing keeps getting clogged up and in general, it's a pain to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm absolutely uncompromising when it comes to sanitation, so it doesn't seem like it's a sanitation problem. However, the chilling step post-boil &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be introducing something, since I don't know what's happening inside the chill wizard. I typically fill a 15gallon fermenter up with sanitizer and run it through the chill wizard for about 5 minutes as the last step before transferring the wort using the chill wizard to the now sanitized fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use Belgian yeast, so I doubt that the specific strain of yeast is causing the problem. I usually use Wyeast 1098 - British Ale - for most of my ales, and they ferment at around 66-68F, which I closely monitor using a Tilt hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that could be problematic is that I'm not super reliable about transferring out of primary to secondary immediately as soon as I've reached gravity. (In some cases, I actually wait way too long, but this isn't generally the case). I typically transfer from primary -&amp;gt; secondary after about 7 days, but, roughly speaking, almost all of my beers are at their final gravity within 4 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I carbonate in a keg using a carbonation/diffusion stone, usually over a period of 2 days. Before carbonating, I boil the lid and carbonation stone/assembly for roughly 5 minutes in order to sanitize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that anyone is going to be able to tell me exactly what's wrong, but I'm looking for a strategy for how I might go about troubleshooting the cause of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3652" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T03:18:37.243" Title="Consistent clove aftertaste" Tags="|off-flavor|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25344" CreationDate="2020-11-07T20:37:34.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you know when the clove flavor gets into the beer? I'd try the wort pre boil, post boil, and then the beer right after fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, a quick web search suggests this off-flavor as &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/off-flavor-phenolic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;phenolic&lt;/a&gt;. Clove is on the harmless end of this off-flavor; I had beer that tasted medicinal and like plastic. This can depend on what the water supplier puts in the water, so some batches may come out ok, and others may have a strong off-flavor, depending on the water quality and what was added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never had that problem again after using reverse osmosis filtered water (25c gallon, just have to remember to buy water before brew day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2020-11-09T17:34:45.070" LastActivityDate="2020-11-09T17:34:45.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="720" CreationDate="2020-11-10T01:04:36.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have given up on both hydrometers and refractometers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a density bottle and (very accurate) scales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a 100ml Density Bottle and taring the weight of the bottle I can read the density straight from the scales, all I have to do is move the decimal point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A volumetric bottle in not as accurate as a density bottle but could be used if nothing else is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18686" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T01:04:36.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25344" CreationDate="2020-11-10T01:46:44.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clove-ey flavor in my experience is due to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast health (namely- hot fermentations)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chloramines in water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bacteria infection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My prime bet is fermentation temps- you say you ferment at  66-68F - is this ambient temp- or temp controlled?  Are you pitching your yeast when your wort is hot? I would discount an infection (#3) if the clove doesn't develop to something way worse in a month (burning, bandaid, chemically flavor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you gotten a different result with different strains? Call me crazy- but I think wyeasts are a little more prone to hot-side phenols, at least in some strains (i.e. 1056 vs WLP001) and the clove-ey flavor is typical when english strains move towards the upper 70s range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water could be a culprit, although I think if your water is so chlorinated it does this in beer- you would smell it coming off the tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T01:46:44.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25344" CreationDate="2020-11-12T10:36:33.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To eliminate chloramine (as distinct from chlorine), your water apparently needs to be boiled for a minimum of 20 minutes. Alternatively, you can use the chemical method - Campden tablet(s) - sodium metabisulphite. This latter method works for me, but just make sure you don't overdose - one tablet per 10 gallons is a guideline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2020-11-12T10:36:33.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-14T20:11:01.793" Score="3" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to bottle a sweet cider with carbonation. In every process to achieve this one step is to pasteurize the bottles in a pot of hot water, kept to a specific temperature after the bottles have the carbonation level you desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you do this heating process on bottles laying on their sides? Can they be stacked, even with a rag between the layers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18694" LastActivityDate="2020-11-18T14:58:34.240" Title="Can Bottles be Pasteurized Lying on Their Sides?" Tags="|carbonation|pasteurization|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25349" CreationDate="2020-11-18T14:58:34.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose the question here would be, can your caps maintain a proper seal if submerged in ~190F water for 10 minutes or so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you'll be able to figure this out with real data as the cap manufacturer will probably outright advise against this (if you could get ahold of them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally- I probably wouldn't do it as I have a sneaking suspicion this would affect the seal. But it probably depends on time soaked, temperature, cap type, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps best is to try it with a single bottle and try to determine if the cap is loosened afterwords once it's cooled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-11-18T14:58:34.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25344" CreationDate="2020-11-24T13:38:54.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have a sanitation problem. Clove flavors (derived from a compound known as 4 vinyl guaiacol, 4VG for short) are produced by POV positive beer yeasts (e.g. Belgian Abbey and German Weizen yeasts), by some wine yeasts, and by most wild yeasts. The latter are most likely your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, not all such flavors are really clove flavors. If what you taste is somewhat reminiscent of improperly pickled olives, the aroma inside an old oak cabinet or old leather, the most likely culprit is not 4VG but tannin. The latter is extracted from the grain husks if the pH of your mash is too high, either as a result of brewing water quality / mineral composition, or as a result of too much water and too little grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you suddenly noticed a persistent change in the quality of your beer, my guess is that you either have a sanitation problem (persistent wild yeasts) which you need to combat with fire and sword (think serious chemical or heat application) or the quality of your water has changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be toclean the heck out of everything (and I mean everything); test your mash pH (which should be somewhere in the 5.1 to 5.4 range) and bottle/keg as cleanly as possible; then report back on the taste of your next pint!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-11-24T13:38:54.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25355" CreationDate="2020-11-25T21:43:07.780" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a jar of Sodium Metabisulfite which has been opened and used from. A volume of about 4 oz. is left and looks to be in good shape. I would want to use it to sanitize some equipment. Should I expect it to be effective after purchasing it after 10 years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="297" LastEditorUserId="297" LastEditDate="2020-11-25T22:25:18.567" LastActivityDate="2020-11-28T08:21:27.857" Title="What is the expected degradation of Sodium Metabisulfite?" Tags="|sanitation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25354" CreationDate="2020-11-26T10:43:28.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as it has not got damp or hot &amp;gt;100C it should be fine. It is an ionic salt and stable unless heated to ~150C (melting point is 170C), but it will start degrading at 150.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T10:43:28.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25354" CreationDate="2020-11-28T08:21:27.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sodium metabisulphite, if kept dry and out of direct sunlight, should be entirely stable. If exposed to air (or rather, the humidity in air) it will degrade very slowly, depending on environmental conditions. An opened but reclosed jar kept in a cupboard or something similar should be quite alright to use. I've used sodmet that was that old and it was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, use 10% more to make up for any possible loss in SO2 over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-11-28T08:21:27.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25816" CreationDate="2020-11-30T00:00:40.567" Score="1" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at purchasing a stainless steel carbonation cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewfinds.com/2018/12/hands-on-review-ferroday-stainless-steel-carbonation-cap-for-pet-bottles-draft-line-cleaning-builds.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewfinds.com/2018/12/hands-on-review-ferroday-stainless-steel-carbonation-cap-for-pet-bottles-draft-line-cleaning-builds.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do a Google search for &amp;quot;stainless carbonation cap&amp;quot; you can see them listed at lots of online brewing stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these online stores list the following uses for the cap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbonate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning your beer lines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use it to counter pressure bottle fill PET bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Numbers 1 and 2 make sense to me. However, number 3 is confusing me. How can you counter pressure fill a bottle if there is no way to vent the CO2 as you fill the bottle with liquid. I know that the cap I'm looking at has a barb so you cap put a dip tube to fill from the bottom up but I would have thought that no beer could flow into the bottle if it is sealed and full of CO2. Are all these homebrew stores just putting the wrong description on these caps or am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose maybe you could undo the cap a little bit to let the CO2 escape as you fill the bottle. Has anyone done counter pressure filling with a carbonation cap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18615" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T08:56:25.397" Title="How do counter pressure bottle fill PET bottles with a stainless carbonation cap" Tags="|carbonation|keg|co2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16556" CreationDate="2020-11-30T01:43:38.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is bitter due to the ginger and the yeast eating all the sugar. You really should backsweeten. Here is a really good article explaining all the different parts of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrewsupply.com/learn/make-alcoholic-ginger-ale.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://homebrewsupply.com/learn/make-alcoholic-ginger-ale.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18716" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T01:43:38.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25357" CreationDate="2020-12-01T12:59:55.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Counterpressure filling involves purging the container, pressurizing it it CO2, and then bleeding off the pressure gradually to make beer flow into the container from another pressurized vessel (typically a keg). I don't see how that would be possible with a carbonation cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made my own carbonation cap ages ago (before you could buy them) using some industrial gas fittings an a coke bottle cap. But I only used that to make my own sodawater (i.e. by carbonating water) and to carbonate some beer for a quick sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yeah, I think the description of being suitable for counterpressure filling is dubious at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T12:59:55.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25153" CreationDate="2020-12-01T13:06:59.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have finally managed to discuss this with someone who has forgotten more about brewing than I have ever known, and he opines that the main cause of increased foaming in darker styles had mainly to do with the melanoidins that occur in greater quantities in darker malts. Melanoidins are foam-positive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of high levels of melanoidins and bittering hops also appears to be mutually enhancing, i.e. separately they produce a certain amount and type of foam, but combined they produce more than the sum of both separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a funny ol' world, innit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T13:06:59.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25344" CreationDate="2020-12-02T02:37:34.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if you have a yeast infection of a POF+ yeast from a previous batch (or something wild).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you rely solely on acid-based sanitisers for sanitation (like StarSan, etc.), these do not kill yeasts effectively (that's why they're &amp;quot;no rinse&amp;quot;).  It's a good practice to occasionally vary your sanitisation procedure - use heat, or perhaps Iodophor(sp?) to kill a wider range of micro-organisms, including wild yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I use a chiller, I simply recirculate boiling wort through it for a few minutes to sanitise it.  That way it only needs to be clean, and you're not applying an acid-rinse to copper plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for-what-its-worth, my palette is super-responsive to clove flavours too, so you have my sympathy.  I'm still working on pushing my wheat beers away from clove esters, and into the banana / bubblegum zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2020-12-23T03:18:37.243" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T03:18:37.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25342" CreationDate="2020-12-02T03:28:24.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most (all?) fermentations have &lt;em&gt;trace amounts&lt;/em&gt; of methanol, with the tendency of fruit-based fermentations to have more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the amount is so low, it is insignificant - &lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; your concentrate it.  One method of concentration is via heat distillation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: It's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; that you're making &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; methanol by distillation, the process just concentrates the existing alcohols by removing water from the final product.  Imagine boiling the water off salt water.  A teaspoon of salt in a bucket of water is still potable.  But concentrate that salt by boiling away the water, and eventually it becomes nasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://help.stillspirits.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/360012265117/Alembic_Pot_Still_Instructions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This PDF manual&lt;/a&gt; for a commercially available &amp;quot;Pot&amp;quot; still, on page 8 suggests that the first 200ml for &amp;quot;foreshots&amp;quot; should be discarded.  Based on the boiler equipment pictured in the manual, this amount seems to be based on a 25 litre batch size of a ~20% AbV wash.  However, I was unable to find a listed &lt;em&gt;official&lt;/em&gt; batch size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2022-02-28T02:54:31.940" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T02:54:31.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-03T18:23:18.307" Score="1" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I got a Chinook IPA kit last Xmas from Northern Brewer and made my first ever home brew. I followed instructions except I think I made the mistake of steeping grains in boiling water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything about the beer ended up perfect except this nasty dry/bitter overtone that ruined what other wise seemed like a good beer. Color was amazing including a nice light brown head. I bottled some and kegged some and they were identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 months later I am attempting a Brew Dog Elvis Juice clone (&lt;a href=&quot;https://brewdogrecipes.com/recipes/elvis-juice-v2-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elvis Juice 2.0&lt;/a&gt;). I steeped the Pale grains at 149°F for 20 minutes.  Used Caramalt extract. Totally different hops in this recipe. 1060 OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's been fermenting for one week. I just added dry hops and peels per recipe and took a gravity reading and am at 1014 (FG target is 1010).  Temp is 66.2°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far so good, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I took a taste.   DAMNIT. Same dry / bitter taste as the Northern Brewer Chinook batch. You can just about smell it, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using filtered tap water out of the fridge water dispenser. Fairly hard water where I am. Also, besides that actual water, I did not boil 6 gallons of water.  I only boiled 2.5 gallons per Northern Brew recipe. The rest of the water is added to the wort after it has been cooled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it something else? Infection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18727" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-12-06T04:31:37.933" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T22:23:00.983" Title="Same dry and bitter taste with two different IPA brews" Tags="|water|ipa|taste|mash-ph|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-03T21:18:52.850" Score="1" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;My stout facuet has gotten lost in the post and I have a keg of Guinness, I have mixed gas (70/30)(N/Co2) and i was wondering what would happen if i didnt use the correct nozzel, using a beer tap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to find answers online but can't seem to find out anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18728" LastActivityDate="2020-12-16T14:07:04.997" Title="Pouring stout without stout faucet" Tags="|stout|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="449" CreationDate="2020-12-04T12:36:33.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an interesting experiment into this here &lt;a href=&quot;https://brulosophy.com/2016/10/31/the-boil-lid-on-vs-lid-off-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://brulosophy.com/2016/10/31/the-boil-lid-on-vs-lid-off-exbeeriment-results/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth reading the whole thing but the TL:DR version is that he did side by side lid on and lid off brews which were otherwise identical, and nobody could tell the difference with blind taste/smell testing - even him.  The two beers were for all intents and purposes identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One interesting thing is that both brews lost the same amount of liquid during the boil, and one of his theories was that even with the lid on a lot of steam still escapes, and that maybe still carried the DMS off with it.  He did say he was going to continue doing lid-off brews though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18204" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T12:36:33.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25369" CreationDate="2020-12-04T17:13:15.920" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been brewing for about a year, I've got about a dozen brews under my belt. Tried my hand at a New England IPA. All went ok up to drinking it. When i bottled it (I bottle condition), the beer was the correct hazy pale yellow colour. Smell was nice and fruity/tropical. However, just under 2 weeks later, cracked open the first bottle and its gone bad.&#xA;Specifically, the fruity aroma has generally been replaced with a rather hoppy aroma and it leaves a massive bitter after taste in the mouth. colour has veered to the grayish spectrum.&#xA;I believe it has badly oxydized, probably due to my bottle conditioning and how i did it. Is my interpretation reasonable based on above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17990" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T19:58:32.027" Title="oxydized NE IPA?" Tags="|ipa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25363" CreationDate="2020-12-06T04:31:10.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a pH issue. Mashing just pale malt alone with hard water, which is typically also very alkaline, is probably at a high pH of like 6.0 or more, way too high. You need to be aiming for a pH of about 5.5-5.6 (sample measured at room temperature) or 5.3-5.4 (if measured at mash temperature). Get a pH meter (I use a cheap one from Amazon, link below, they work just fine!). Get some lactic acid or phosphoric acid, or if you're a cheapskate like me you can even use literally a &amp;quot;glug&amp;quot; of vinegar in the mash, it all works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fix the mash pH and this problem won't happen anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B083JSVWWR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/KWODE-Measurement-Accuracy-Household-Drinking/dp/B083JSVWWR/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&amp;amp;keywords=ph+meter+for+home+brewing&amp;amp;qid=1607180044&amp;amp;sr=8-18&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-12-06T04:31:10.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25364" CreationDate="2020-12-06T16:19:32.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you push a regular tap back you can inject some nitrogen and it will even cascade but it isn't nearly as &amp;quot;creamy&amp;quot; as regular Guinness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18728" LastActivityDate="2020-12-06T16:19:32.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25366" CreationDate="2020-12-07T19:58:32.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;100% correct.  Its unfortunate, but everyone who bottles traditionally by racking into a bucket with some sugar etc etc has a tough time with the beer oxidizing.  Some solutions would be to dose a sugar solution into the bottles independently.  Then use a CO2 regulator to push the beer out of a carboy into the bottles through a racking cane setup.  But then you need more equipment and might as well keg at that point.  Another option would be to experiment with the addition of metabisulfites at bottling.  I don't know the exact dosage but some are experimenting with the MBS and its ability to scavange some oxygen at bottling.  This is a tough style to bottle in an open environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T19:58:32.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25363" CreationDate="2020-12-07T20:06:09.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's most likely water.  It may or may not be a mash issue with astringency.  I have recently experimented with intentionally using &amp;gt;pH6 water to try and make astringency happen.  It wasn't as much of a given as the brewing texts would have you believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely is that you might have a high sulfate level in your hard water and that's making the hops come across as more harsh than you like.  I'd recommend repeating your effort with some spring water or RO/distilled water.  That will have much lower sulfates.  If that solves the problem great.  If not then you need to dig into this pH thing a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-12-09T22:23:00.983" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T22:23:00.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25372" CreationDate="2020-12-08T03:30:54.587" Score="6" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can theatre buttered and salted popcorn be used for brewing brewing at home?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine has access to leftover popcorn from a movie theatre and I was wondering if it could be used for brewing at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know enough about home brewing to know if this is even possible, given the particular circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The popcorn is already buttered and salted, so I do not know if these would interfere with the brewing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is possible to brew could someone perhaps mention a good recipe for it as well as the best yeast that would work best for this brewing process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T09:13:33.350" Title="Can theatre buttered and salted popcorn be used for brewing brewing at home?" Tags="|yeast|mash|recipe|ingredients|popcorn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25371" CreationDate="2020-12-08T11:59:29.693" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, yes it can. Have done so before with Pumpkin Popcorn IPA. It was really good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Salted will pump up your chloride ion count, so be aware of that, and the buttered aspect makes no real difference after mash and boil, any left over fats will get taken up by the yeast. As long as you are not adding an Ounce of butter you should be fine with the small amount on the popcorn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best yeast what ever you have, what ever you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take any standard home brew recipe and just chuck in the popcorn to the mash, treat it as you would any other torrified grain. I would not add more than 10% grist by weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T11:59:29.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25371" CreationDate="2020-12-11T09:13:33.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should work, depending on style. Popcorn is essentially cooked corn starch, so it comes pre-gelatinized and when mixed with sufficient diastatic malt it should saccharify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the previous posted already noted, the salt will raise your sodium levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to popular belief, the &amp;quot;buttered&amp;quot; popcorn rarely contains any butter. The butter flavour is a diacetyl based flavouring (diactyl is also produced by yeast) and the fat is usually coconut fat, which should have limited solubility in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So go for a full-bodied, full-flavoured style with sufficient body an hop bitterness to deal with the diacetyl; use water that is not too high in sodium to begin with, don't expect great head formation and retention because of the added lipids from the coconut fat, and don't be afraid to experiment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T09:13:33.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3111" CreationDate="2020-12-11T12:21:03.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mature my bottle conditioned ales for as long as possible. The longest so far is 168 weeks or 3.2 years for one of my Barley Wines. The key changes are Hoppyness mellows with age and Malts go through a long series of changes resulting in a sort of licorice taste. I think the way malt changes over time is wonderful. Remember your beers won't go off if you; use clean dry bottles, plenty hops(antixoidising and sterilising), alcohol (kills bacteria and virus's), CO2 is acidic and prevents bacteria from entering the bootles and keeps any already in the beer dormant. With all this going for you try making more beer to allow some to mature and some to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18748" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T12:21:03.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-12T20:27:08.437" Score="2" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I didn't put any yeast nutrient into my cider and I was wondering if this is going to be a problem? I put in EC-1118 yeast packet into a 5 gallon carboy of juice. I have never made cider before and really don't want to mess this up. Also how critical is a hydrometer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18752" LastActivityDate="2020-12-16T14:04:05.823" Title="I didn't add yeast nutrients to my cider is this going to be a problem?" Tags="|cider|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25375" CreationDate="2020-12-13T01:46:19.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never use nutrient in my ciders and they turn out great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don’t need a hydrometer either. It can be useful but is not essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cidermaking can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be. There is no wrong way to do it. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T01:46:19.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25375" CreationDate="2020-12-16T14:04:05.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only had issues with cider ferments when I add extraneous sugars to raise the gravity.  And I mean a significant amount of honey, brown sugar or the like.  In those examples a little yeast nutrient tends to keep the yeast going strong a little deeper into completing the task as the %ABV goes up.  Otherwise, straight cider doesn't require extra nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the hydrometer, if you don't want to know the numbers for calculating ABV its no big deal to have one.  I just make sure fermentation is done before I bottle it.  I do that be just extending the time on the yeast post the active ferment phase to be sure.  Usually no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-12-16T14:04:05.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25364" CreationDate="2020-12-16T14:07:04.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a standard faucet you can just gently crack it open to get some extra foam towards the end of the fill.  Maybe for the last third is what I have done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2020-12-16T14:07:04.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25381" CreationDate="2020-12-17T17:42:12.093" Score="2" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a batch of a brown ale (15L) from a kit, where after some weeks, I got 1.016 and the fermentation stopped. To restart the fermentation I added two teaspoons of yeast nutrients. After one day, it stopped again, now the FG is 1.012. Then I tried two more teaspoons of yeast nutrients, and the fermentation didn't restart this time, so no bubbles in the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after 5 days, my idea is just bottle the beer as it is. My concern is, as I need to add some sugar just before bottling, there is any risk to restart he fermentation in the bottle due to the presence of unconsumed yeast nutrients?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18358" OwnerDisplayName="anvd" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2020-12-18T14:03:43.827" LastActivityDate="2020-12-18T14:08:46.117" Title="Unconsumed yeast nutrients before bottling" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|bottling|yeast-nutrient|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25380" CreationDate="2020-12-18T14:08:46.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This should be safe to bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You used an awful lot of nutrient.  I can see that it helped, but you probably only needed about one teaspoon maximum; the rest of it was truly not useful.  As such you saw the initial drop from 1.016 to 1.012, and that is as far as it will go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can prime and bottle the batch now as normal.  It should turn out well.  You might sense a salty flavor in the finished beer from the high level of nutrient, I am not sure but hopefully not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-12-18T14:08:46.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25383" CreationDate="2020-12-19T12:22:41.440" Score="3" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did an experiment with a couple brands of baker's yeast and I know that my conditions aren't optimal, but as I said, it's an experiment and it will probably taste horrible. But still, my ingredients are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1l clear apple juice (I know, I know)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~60g added sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 packet baker's yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With those I did a couple bottles to compare the different yeasts. I think I should've reduced the amount of yeast, but most of it looks fine for now. It's been sitting on a shelf for around three days now and is definitely fermenting. However, today one bottle slowed down and I think it's also starting to clear up. This seems strange, but reasonable, as this bottle had the most rapid fermentation so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't clear up this quickly though, right? As I understand it, naturally clearing takes a couple weeks. What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18765" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T13:49:34.210" Title="Apple cider clearing up after just a few days" Tags="|fermentation|cider|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25382" CreationDate="2020-12-19T13:49:34.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bakers yeast has been selected to ferment quickly, as the faster it ferments available sugars the faster the dough rises and the sooner you can bake your bread. Whereas, beer and cider yeasts have been selected for flavour profile, and not rate of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have in the past brewed with Bakers yeast and if you keep the temps reasonable it can be OK, but will rarely have as clean a profile as a slower fermenting yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T13:49:34.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-20T07:29:29.680" Score="2" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made sugar wash and let it ferment for a week. After that I distilled it but forgot to get rid of the heads. I let it go until it was enough to fill a cup and emptied my pot (I didn’t use all my liquid) I tried to light it on fire but it won’t burn. is it safe to drink or should I be worried about methanol poisoning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18769" LastEditorUserId="17594" LastEditDate="2020-12-23T03:08:52.850" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T03:07:05.667" Title="Should I be worried" Tags="|fermentation|alcohol|safety|distillation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24293" CreationDate="2020-12-23T13:59:08.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me simply reinforce what is being said here with a little more focus on history:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lagers are not a storage process.  They are a product made with lagering yeasts and fermented at lower temps that typically require refrigeration.  The vast majority of craft beers are ales, because ales are fermented at room temperatures and are therefore much less expensive to make.  If you take an ale and stick it in a cooler, it doesn't suddenly become a lager.  Yeah, it sounds ridiculous when you say it like that, but I honestly think that is what some people mistakenly believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than get hung up on who made the &amp;quot;first&amp;quot; lager (since no one knows), let us just say that there were a lot of quality improvements in beer brewing in Central Europe in the early 1500's.  Most people are familiar with the &amp;quot;Rheinheitsgebot&amp;quot; - the purity law that originated in the duchy of Munich in 1487, and following the reunification of Bavaria was adopted in 1516 and eventually spread, in one form or other, through the entire Holy Roman Empire.  This not only defined what beer was, but it limited the ingredients allowed in beer, limited beer profits, and created penalties for brewing &amp;quot;impure beer&amp;quot;.  However this was before the advent of microbiology, and people didn't understand the science of making beer - they just knew the steps you went through, many of which were extremely ad hoc and random.  For example, the original Rheinheitsgebot didn't include yeast as an ingredient because Bavarians either didn't know that yeast existed, or didn’t understand its roll in fermentation.  The yeast used in brewing was whatever yeast happened to be randomly introduced to the process, and could vary dramatically from batch to batch, leading to huge variability in quality, particularly in the warm summer months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore in 1553 the Bavarian Duke Albrecht V simply outlawed all beer brewing during the summer.  If they didn't know WHY summer beer was bad, they could at least stop making it. The unintended consequences of this law were two-fold; first, overnight all Bavarian beer became lagers - because only cold temperature lager-making yeasts remained active during the winter months. Second, the last beers brewed in the spring were brewed strong with a higher ABV in order that they had a longer shelf life. These beers, made with cold hardy yeasts, were &amp;quot;lagered&amp;quot; or stored, in cool caves and cellars so that they stayed fresh throughout the summer months. It remained illegal to brew beer during the summer in Bavaria until 1850.  Initially people called these winter beers “lagers” because of the cold storage… and it was hundreds of years before they understood that they were significantly different from ales not because of the storage – but because of the cold temperature yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, please don’t try to brew something at room temp and call it a lager, LOL!  Can you tell the difference?  Maybe, maybe not... in the same way that many people can't tell the difference between Kentucky Bourbon and Tennessee Whiskey.  However when the product is defined in a very specific way, don't make something else and call it by the same name.  If you care so much about lagers, learn how to make a lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18777" LastEditorUserId="18777" LastEditDate="2020-12-23T14:23:55.337" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T14:23:55.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25388" CreationDate="2020-12-24T05:25:46.347" Score="3" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to brew some type of ale as my first beer, i heard it is the easiest to start with.&#xA;I was wondering what is the good small amount of beer to brew first time (or minimal amount possible) as i would like to keep it low in case i do something wrong and i currently also do not have a lot of space to keep it all (no garage for 50L of beer to sit for a couple of weeks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18780" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T03:00:00.570" Title="What is the good amount of beer to brew as a beginner?" Tags="|beer|first-time-brewer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25387" CreationDate="2020-12-24T14:51:59.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a matter of personal preference, of course, but I suggest using a standard 5-gallon recipe (19L) but then cut all the ingredients in half and brew just 2.5 gallons (9.5L).  Then if you like it, you can brew it again, and if you don't like it, then you've only lost 2.5 gallons (9.5L).  You will get about 1 case of beer, at least 24 bottles or maybe up to 27-28 maximum, per 2.5 gallons (9.5L).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I often brew just 1.25 to 1.67 gallons (5-6L) at a time when experimenting.  You could also do that.  Simply use fewer ingredients.  The fermentation still takes the same time regardless of recipe size.  With smaller batches, there is no need to boil the wort vigorously or else you will concentrate it too much.  Just bring the wort to a slow simmer to reduce the boiloff rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.  Cheers, welcome to the hobby, and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2020-12-24T14:51:59.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25391" CreationDate="2020-12-27T21:59:11.797" Score="0" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I added sugar and bread yeast to a bottle(plastic bottle) of juice and it's about 3 days that it's fermentation process got started and I can see a lot of bubbles are coming up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the bottle is highly stretched due to the high pressure of gas released in the fermentation process and it's about to explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it bad to produce beer like this? ( i don't have money to buy airlock).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I open the bottle every 12 hours to let the gas come out?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I open it frequently to let the gas come out, does it causes the generated alcohol to evaporate?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice or help would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18789" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T13:59:30.307" Title="Is Fermentation without airlock possible in bottle?" Tags="|fermentation|bottle-conditioning|primary-fermentation|airlock|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25390" CreationDate="2020-12-28T13:59:30.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it bad to produce beer like this? ( i don't have money to buy airlock).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't call it ideal, but it is fine. The only purpose of an airlock is to allow air to escape and not enter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I open the bottle every 12 hours to let the gas come out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I would open it to let it degass to prevent the bottle from exploding during the few days of primary fermentation. Not totally degassing often may cause this to be slightly carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I open it frequently to let the gas come out, does it causes the generated alcohol to evaporate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, it won't cause the alcohol to evaporate. It is simply letting the CO2 escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T13:59:30.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-04T05:05:05.437" Score="2" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brewed a batch of pale ale using Kveik yeast (Omega Voss OYL-061). I fermented in primary at 29 degrees for about 14 days before kegging - it was oxygenated well and went absolutely wild in the first 3 days. It turn out at 5.6% ABV. The beer tastes good - I'm not getting any acetaldehyde flavor - but I only drank just under a liter and woke up with a terrible headache. Does Kveik still produce a lot of fusels under certain conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8501" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T13:13:58.677" Title="Hangover after drinking Kviek brew?" Tags="|fermentation|hangover|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25395" CreationDate="2021-01-05T18:36:39.123" Score="1" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had multiple successful wine brewing experiences without sanitizing the bucket with potassium metabisulfite. Is it really necessary? How often should I sanitize the bucket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know potassium metabisulfite powder should not be breathe-in, and it is irritant to lungs and mucous membranes, so is it safe for human consumption? what will happen if the bucket is not fully dried?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18810" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T20:06:02.533" Title="Is potassium metabisulfite necessary for sanitizing the fermentation bucket?" Tags="|sanitation|potassium-meta-bisulfite|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25394" CreationDate="2021-01-05T19:49:29.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sanitation is critical with each and every batch.  Anyone can get lucky a few times.  But eventually you will have problems if you don't properly sanitize your fermentation equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metabisulfite does not need to be rinsed or dried.  If you are concerned about it going airborne or producing sulfurous gases, consider an alternative no-rinse sanitizer such as StarSan, which is probably even more effective, and not hazardous at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T19:49:29.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25393" CreationDate="2021-01-05T23:11:39.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed 90 litres (10 X 9L batches) last Australian summer using Lallemand Voss Kveik Ale Yeast (dry yeast) and was very satisfied with the results, experiencing no ill effects. Brewing with it again as I type this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T23:11:39.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25398" CreationDate="2021-01-06T08:17:02.467" Score="0" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my beer about 5 days ago I mean it's about 5 days that it's vigorously bubbling. I made it in the bottle under a high pressure. Please take a look at my previous question to see how I'm fermenting my beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/25390/18789&quot;&gt;Is Fermentation without airlock possible in bottle?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now I want to know now (after 5 days of fermentation) how many percentage of alcohol is generated in my beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it drinkable now even tho it's still bubbling vigorously?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it ferment faster under high pressure?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Beer size: One liter&#xA;Amount of sugar: 90 grams&#xA;Amount of yeast: Half of a tb spoon&#xA;Type of yeast: Bread yeast&#xA;Temperature: 25C&#xA;Fermentation environment: Completely in bottle&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Y6CM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Y6CM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottles&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18789" LastEditorUserId="18789" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T10:37:48.770" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T19:47:23.623" Title="is my still bubbling beer ready?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|beer|bottle-conditioning|bubble|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25397" CreationDate="2021-01-06T15:15:19.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let the bubbling stop. Then put it in the fridge. Then after a couple of days of clearing put it in the fridge to let the yeast settle out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once this is done, carefully puur your fermented liquor off the lees(left over yeast), and drink. Do not expect this to be good, it will be liquid and contain alcohol, but it will likely taste awful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made ginger beer this way and it works really well, but I used specific beer yeast Safale S-04, not bread yeast. But the extreme ginger masked any short comings of the fermentation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re your 3 questions -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how many percentage of alcohol is generated in my beer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No idea, without a hydrometer reading before and in current state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it drinkable now even tho it's still bubbling vigorously?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but may not taste great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it ferment faster under high pressure?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No this usually stresses the yeast and inhibits their progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T15:15:19.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25394" CreationDate="2021-01-06T20:06:02.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sanitizing the fermentation bucket (and all equipment that will be in contact with the must) is recommended before making any new batch of wine, but Potassium Metabisulfite is not the only product, you can use StarSan, Aceptox, etc.  It is often used when making wine since wine naturally contains sulfites and adding some more is often desired for preservation. You may wear a mask when handling the powder, but once it is mixed with water it is ok.  I use a spray bottle with a mixture of water and Metabisulfite to sanitize my equipment when making wine, and Aceptox when making beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most wines contain Sulfites, so the little that could be dried on the fermenter will be added to the wine, which is usually not enough to reach the recommended amount, so winemakers often add even more (camden caplets, etc.) to protect the wine from oxygen, allowing for a longer stabilization/conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;general principle&amp;quot; is that the more air is allowed to be in contact with the wine, the more sulfites are depleted. Once no more sulfites are present, the wines oxydizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T20:06:02.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-08T01:46:41.983" Score="2" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently opened my fermentation chamber to do a hydrometer check and noticed the hop bits are stuck to the sides of the bucket and no longer on the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Want to ask if this is safe? Or is it a prime location for unwanted bacteria to grow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ibb.co/r2TK9YM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ibb.co/r2TK9YM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18823" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T18:18:20.390" Title="Hop mix on the sides of the fermentation bucket - is this safe?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25400" CreationDate="2021-01-08T16:58:56.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is fine this happens all the time, it is to be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T16:58:56.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-09T04:25:56.203" Score="4" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Pilsner that I am currently lagering. It has a definite diacetyl taste. I may have flushed the yeast out too early and was too warm while fermenting. Can I add the trub from another beer that has finished fermenting to help remove the off taste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18825" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T18:16:09.850" Title="Remove diacetyl taste with slurry" Tags="|lagering|diacetyl-rest|pilsner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25402" CreationDate="2021-01-11T18:16:09.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to add some actively fermenting beer.  There is a German technique called &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/oqdYkx8Usd/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Krausening&lt;/a&gt; for just this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T18:16:09.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25400" CreationDate="2021-01-11T18:18:20.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That stuff is mostly yeast and protein from the active fermentation.  Its called &lt;a href=&quot;https://beercreation.com/what-is-krausen/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;krausen&lt;/a&gt;. Its nothing to be concerned about.  I'd be concerned if it wasn't there post ferment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T18:18:20.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-18T14:04:17.623" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to brew &amp;quot;non-alcoholic&amp;quot; (&amp;lt;0.5% abv) beer using the BIAB method by using a smaller amount of grain than is typical. I'm happy with the resulting beer except that I believe the final pH is too high and the bottled beer is potentially unsafe. I've tried using acidulated malt but the final pH is still too high, so I'm now planning to use lactic acid to reduce the pH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been unable to find answers to the following questions, if anyone can provide any insight it would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the maximum safe pH at the start of fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the maximum safe pH after 3 days of fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the maximum safe pH at bottling time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can lactic acid be added to a ~5.5 pH fermented beer when bottling, or is it too late at that point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially my question is: at what point in the fermentation process does the pH have to get below 4.6 to avoid the risk of dangerous bacteria/toxins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18850" LastEditorUserId="18850" LastEditDate="2021-01-18T17:32:13.747" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T17:32:13.747" Title="Non-Alcoholic Brewing Safety Question (pH)" Tags="|beer|safety|ph|acidity|food-safety|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-19T16:31:23.207" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to break down the starches in a certain variety of oats in the most efficient way possible. I have to break the whole oats down after cooking, so they are finer particles for the amylases (alpha amylase and gluco-amylase) to do its work in the liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been adding the amylases at the beginning of blending of the whole oats (at a temperature of about 35 centigrade) because I thought it would help the enzyme process, but could I be damaging / denaturing the enzyme from the shear forces of the blender (I am using a 600 Watt stick blender)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next stage is where I bring the oat and amylase mix up to 60 - 70 degrees c to get the most effective breakdown of starch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18851" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T23:57:46.310" Title="Could mechanical blending denature amylase enzymes?" Tags="|mash|chemistry|amylase-enzymes|brewing-enzymes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25407" CreationDate="2021-01-19T23:57:46.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question.  No I don't believe mechanical forces can break down enzymes to the extent that it would be a concern.  Viewed through a magnifying lens or microscope, blender blades will have a relatively enormous surface area compared to your enzymatic molecules.  The blade will push the enzymes around but the only damage done potentially could be if the blender heats up from running for a long time.  So: Mechanical damage, no, not a concern.  Heat damage, remotely possible to damage, but very unlikely unless perhaps running the blade in the same batch for many hours, and even then... unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key of course will be to quickly bring your oat mash to 60-65 C and hold it there for at least an hour.  90 minutes might work even better, depending on your goal for saccharification efficiency, and, (I am assuming) fermentability and attenuation later on.  There will not be a great deal of enzymatic activity at 35 C, so I would not keep it there for too long unless perhaps it is most convenient for your process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T23:57:46.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25409" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-21T02:34:00.213" Score="0" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently received a refractometer and tried it out on a batch of mead that has been in secondary for about 3 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a reading of some distilled water, both read 1.00. I then dissolved 30g of sugar into 250ml of water and took a reading; both showed around 1.045.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I measure my mead, I get pretty much exactly 1.00 on the hydrometer but 10 brix (1.040 sg) on the refractometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, the mead tastes quite sweet; much sweeter than I'd expect from something at 1.000sg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help explain what is going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18491" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T13:16:43.300" Title="High final Brix reading, 1.00 SG" Tags="|mead|specific-gravity|hydrometer|refractometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25263" CreationDate="2021-01-21T11:55:05.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the issue was a combination of post bottling temperature and hop creep. Whilst not excessively hopping(20-30g) dry, it’s hot in the tropics. My shed could get to 32-34C during the day. Backed off the priming sugar bit by bit, nah. Time to keg. Another challenge but not as potential messy. The Kveik yeast works really well here, no fridge needed and over in 2-3 days. Yes just using extract cans, hot storage shortens there shelf life as I’ve learned.&#xA;All the best for 2021 and a new Pres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18577" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T11:55:05.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25409" CreationDate="2021-01-21T13:16:43.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refractometers become less accurate once the yeast has started fermenting the sugars into alcohol. It fails to take into account that there is sugar, alcohol, and water in solution, and only measures the sugar and water. That is why you got a different reading. Ending at 1.000 isn't uncommon if you ferment to tolerance, but from what you've said, it sounds like you simply have a stalled ferment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T13:16:43.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25416" CreationDate="2021-01-22T18:56:39.737" Score="0" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a known weight of malts/grain when wet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I have 10kg of malt when dry, what is that weight when wet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T21:25:19.167" Title="Weight of malt when wet" Tags="|malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-23T00:35:56.563" Score="2" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son and I tried our hand at mead for the first time... I didn't notice a lot of bubbling I thought that it wasn't fermenting correctly but my son thought differently, he's 17. Lol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when we went to bottle it after the normal 2-week. We tasted it and it tasted sour kind of musty It wasn't a good flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody possibly know what we could have done wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note he decided to try to make ginger beer and I felt that the ginger beer had a similar taste to it not as strong as the mead but still it was there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be the tub that we're using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks ahead for the help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18857" LastActivityDate="2024-03-08T00:01:00.213" Title="Sour/musty tasting mead" Tags="|techniques|mead|sour|help|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="345" CreationDate="2021-01-23T13:55:57.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently tried two batches....One with fresh unpasteurized cider from an orchard and the second using store bought pasteurized cider.  Used a cider yeast with both, and fermented the same amount of time (2 weeks).  Got very different results.  The first batch was tarter, very low residual sugar/high alcohol.  Second batch did not ferment as much and kept its taste and a lot of sweetness, with a low alcohol content.  It could have been that there were some preservatives in the store bought stuff, I didn't check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18858" LastActivityDate="2021-01-23T13:55:57.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25412" CreationDate="2021-01-25T14:51:02.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would depend on the composition of your grains, as the absorption is different between different grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal absorption is somewhere between  .1 and .2 gallons of water absorbed per pound of grain. In my experience it tends to be closer to the lower end of this spectrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with some maths&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10kg = ~22 LBs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loss In Gallons:  2.2gal (min @ .1 gal) - 4.4gal (max @ .2 gal)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absorption in KG where 1 gallon of water weighs ~  3.78 kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8.3kg - 16.6kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, your wet grain will likely weigh somewhere between&#xA;18.3kg - 26.6kg  although I think it'll be closer to the 18kg range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies for odd back-and-forth conversions here. Most of my brewing knowledge lives in the odd U.S. system of weights and measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T14:51:02.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25412" CreationDate="2021-01-25T21:25:19.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We always assume weight wet is 1.8 * dry weight, which is inline with Rob's estimeates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T21:25:19.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7152" CreationDate="2021-01-27T04:37:46.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following recipe will give you something similar to commercial nutrient mixes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40g of Di-Ammonium Phosphate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;747g of Ammonium Sulphate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2g of Thiamine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1g of Potassium Tartrate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10g of Bentonite&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result will be a mixture of approximately 800g of Nutrients, of which you only need to add 3 to 5 grams per 20 lt fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://distillique.co.za/Shop/blog/how-to-make-your-own-yeast-nutrients-n26&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and discussed in more detail &lt;a href=&quot;https://stillontap.ca/how-to-make-your-own-yeast-nutrients/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. It should be pretty easy to source the ingredients, although I can only find 150g packets of potassium tartrate so there will be some wastage. I haven't tried this personally, but I plan on trying it for my next brew since I can't find ready-made yeast nutrient here in Vietnam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18881" LastEditorUserId="18881" LastEditDate="2021-01-27T05:00:19.290" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T05:00:19.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11263" CreationDate="2021-01-28T15:29:40.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;5 Gallon Kit and Kilo&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about to start a new batch. I'm fairly new so just using cheap extract kits from Superstore. They lack flavour and head retention so I thought I would spruce it up a bit with some additional ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 5 gallon kit calls for 1 Kg of Dextrose to be added for fermentation. I've made that before and it's &lt;em&gt;okay&lt;/em&gt;. Here's what I'll be doing for the next batch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dextrose for Fermentation (2/3 Kg)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheat DME (500g)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maltodextrin (1/3 lb)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Williamette Dry Hops (1oz)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be adding everything except for the hops at the start of fermentation. I'll add the hops after a few days when primary fermentation is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm going to add 1/3 lb of maltodextrin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm adding it at the start of fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was based on my research but there's nothing like trial and error so I'll come back here and post an update with how it turned out and even include a picture of the head retention to showcase it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13377" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T15:29:40.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25387" CreationDate="2021-01-31T23:50:40.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a number of 1 gallon kits that you could diy build and would give you just a gallon to contend with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18892" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T23:50:40.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-03T13:44:37.017" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing beer for a couple of months now. I currently have a beer line and tap in my garage that has a cleaning keg for running cleaning solution through the lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just wondering if it was possible to keg your homebrew in a cleaning keg as I have access to a 20l cleaning keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18904" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T16:40:14.687" Title="Can you keg your homebrew in a cleaning keg?" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25426" CreationDate="2021-02-03T14:06:39.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there would be an issue with it, but make sure the keg is cleaned before you fill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T14:06:39.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25426" CreationDate="2021-02-06T16:40:14.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be possible to do so, but there is an increased risk of chemical contamination. You will have to ensure the cleaning keg is very throughly cleaned as even small amounts of cleaning solution and be very dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T16:40:14.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-06T21:42:40.020" Score="1" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm coming back to homebrew after 20 years. When I started, everybody used to transfer the beer for another vessel for a secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My old kit has two buckets and I'm fermenting it in the bucket without a tap. I'll need to move it to the other bucket for the bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best time to do it? Should I do it after one week fermenting, or just before bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14909" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T16:20:15.860" Title="No tap in my bucket, when should I move to the bottling one?" Tags="|bottling|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25442" CreationDate="2021-02-06T22:00:46.313" Score="3" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have space for a freezer, and I live in a tropical country. Which kind of yeast is appropriate for fermenting at higher temperatures? And which styles are best for these yeasts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14909" LastEditorUserId="14909" LastEditDate="2021-02-09T00:01:13.140" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T21:45:23.990" Title="Which are the good yeasts and beer styles for fermenting at higher temperatures?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-06T22:26:25.317" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to the risk of contamination and oxygenation, siphoning is one of the most delicate moments of homebrewing. What are your favorite techniques and accessories for doing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also welcome some nice &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MykGf3IxE-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;videos&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjwKiTxw-Hw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;about&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbOZofHHiE0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;siphoning&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14909" LastEditorUserId="14909" LastEditDate="2021-02-19T01:12:47.350" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T10:28:21.473" Title="Whats the best techniques and acessories for siphoning?" Tags="|siphon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-07T14:46:06.720" Score="0" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time brewer here... I have swing-tops that affix to used bottles via this sort of band:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/syFQ6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/syFQ6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Swing-top with metal band&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if I am utilizing it correctly or if there is a trick or something for wrapping the band around the neck of the bottle that I am somehow not seeing or understanding... My first attempt resulted in this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7XiwY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7XiwY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Swing-top affixed to used bottle via metal band&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the seal seems to be fairly tight, I am skeptical as to whether or not it is going to hold when pressure starts to build up inside once I have bottled the beer with sugar for the final fermentation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your advice! Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18864" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T15:52:23.130" Title="Proper method for using this sort of swing-top when bottling?" Tags="|bottling|techniques|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25434" CreationDate="2021-02-07T15:52:23.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used these too. While it does look messy, it definitely works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there are holes over three different heights, you could try to put the band a bit lower, so that it is underneath the lower enlargement of the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise it looks neat. Did you use a pliers? Because the first time I used them, it was a bloody (literally) mess, my fingers were hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T15:52:23.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25433" CreationDate="2021-02-07T16:04:20.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question. Due to ease of use, I like to use an auto siphon, although there is a small drawback. When the sediment blocking tip gets blocked by trub or hop debris, the inner valve starts sucking air in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I find it so comfortable to work with, that I haven't used another type of siphon in five years time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...due to the risk of contamination and oxidation...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't let these spectres haunt you. Don't splash. Make sure the outgoing end of your siphon is at the bottom of the racking vessel and let it cover as fast as possible in the liquid. Keep your siphon properly in the source vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have many possibilities, I have to rack my beer from my fermentation vessel into my bottling bucket, and that means it is wide open. I haven't had any oxidised or contaminated beer in 50 brews. And my beers keep for over a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T16:04:20.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25432" CreationDate="2021-02-07T16:13:10.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experience with Mangrove Jack's M20 and M29 in high temperature. Last summer, I used them to brew a weizen and saison beer, at temperatures between 25° and 30° C. No off-flavors, although that might also be because the beers I brewed with them were not that big, OG of around 1.040.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could brew other beers than weizen with the M20. Despite it being a weizen yeast, it has a relatively good flocculation. I brewed a Leffe clone with it. Don't use it for anything hoppy (except bitterness), hop taste and aroma definitely get muted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The M29 is a var. diastaticus yeast. If you want more body, you will have to use more caramel/crystal malts. Mash at 62°, 66° or 69° C, it will all get eaten by this beast.&#xA;However, it is a very versatile yeast, which allows you to brew saison style, triple style and more or less hoppy styles. I brewed a single hop saison, with Merkur hops, which tasted terrific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is my experience with some high temperature resilient yeasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T16:13:10.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25431" CreationDate="2021-02-07T16:20:15.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only do this before bottling. From all over the forums, and from high profile homebrew people, it seems that keeping your beer for up to four (or even six weeks) in the fermentation bucket is really no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes move my fermenting beer to a second vessel, in two cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I want my beer more clear, somehow this helps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I open ferment, when the krausen has fallen, I transfer it to a closed vessel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use buckets, bottle after two or three weeks. With buckets it is more difficult to take a sample to check if the FG keeps stable (unless you have a wine thief and can afford to lose the sample).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T16:20:15.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25393" CreationDate="2021-02-07T19:09:18.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hangover is still not clearly understood but one dominant factor is dehydration due to over-consumption of alcohol resulting in, most commoly, headache and nausea. There are other symptoms of hangover that will be difficult to distinguish from most forms of over-consumtion of alcohol and other symptoms of allergic reactions and other over sensitivities including other non-alcohol related reactions. See the Wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hangover&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hangover&lt;/a&gt; page for further links to other sources. In short, it is not certainly an effect of hangover experienced, there may be other reasons for the reaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18766" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T19:09:18.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24882" CreationDate="2021-02-07T23:36:59.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bentonite is a fining agent (clarifier) that can either be added in moderate amounts before the fermentation or in larger amounts after the fermentation&lt;/strong&gt;. It is a clay that is very unique because of the fact that it has a static charge that is stronger than usual. It is this property that makes Bentonite valuable as a fining agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bentonite is able to collect dead yeast cells and drag them to the bottom of the fermentation vessel, leaving a clear wine. Being continually suspended throughout the wine is one of the key factors of how well the Bentonite will work. If it is added and just sits at the bottom of the fermenter, it will do very little in the way of clearing a wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When added before the fermentation, not as much Bentonite is needed because it is relying on the fermentation activity to keep it stirred up. It is constantly being churned up by the rise of CO2 gas bubbles that are being created by the wine yeast. This is why your wine recipe only calls for 4 teaspoons. If added after the fermentation, more is needed to be effective, and several periodic stirring sessions are required by the wine maker, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the post copied from ECKraus website. I just made a batch of Welch's grape juice wine. Sweet. I bottled it today. Its pretty tasty. I added bentonite after the 1st rack and stirred the wine couple of times after I added it. It took seven days to completely clear. Next batch, I am going to add it during primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18921" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T23:36:59.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25444" CreationDate="2021-02-08T15:47:11.923" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make glutonous rice wine, purchased the &amp;quot;Angel rice yeast (amalyze)&amp;quot; from asian market, the &amp;quot;white cookie/powder&amp;quot; broke rice down into sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have measured, it is 40%, very sweet to taste. But it just does not ferment. The sweetness always there, does not reduce.&#xA;The liquid pools out is very sweet. .does that means it has being converted from starch to sugar already ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to pitch the champage yeast into it, it only last 2 days, before bubbles stopped. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it too sweet (40%Brix) for champage yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18925" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2021-02-10T12:16:05.613" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T12:16:05.613" Title="rice wine brewing stuck" Tags="|wine|sake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2021-02-16T16:43:32.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25432" CreationDate="2021-02-09T16:11:50.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally belgian tripels / weizen /saison  beers are happy to ferment at more temperatures. Higher temperatures lead to higher ester production which results in the 'belgian-ey' flavors of banana and clove (Although I really wouldn't describe it as clove personally) which makes them work better in higher temps. In my experience- you'll get sick of these styles after a few hundred bottles :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However these days they're are some &amp;quot;kviek&amp;quot; yeasts which can ferment at high temperatures (90F+) and produce a fairly clean low-ester ale of any kind. So part of it may be which strains are available to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T16:11:50.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-07T19:56:22.583" Score="1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make glutonous rice wine, purchased the so call &amp;quot;yeast&amp;quot; from asian market, the &amp;quot;white cookie/powder&amp;quot; broke rice down into sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have measured, it is 40%, very sweet to taste. But it just does not ferment. The sweetness always there, does not reduce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to pitch the champage yeast into it, it only last 2 days, before bubbles stopped.&#xA;Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it too sweet (40%) for champage yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18925" OwnerDisplayName="andrew_ysk" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T16:43:46.950" Title="Rice wine making stucked half way, fermentation never happened?" Tags="|sake|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25441" CreationDate="2021-02-10T12:15:01.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand correct, then amylase powder is used to turn rice into sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;40° Brix is a gravity of 1.180. Champagne yeast can endure a lot, but starting from this amount of sugar would lead to an ABV of 23.6%, if your yeast could endure that. I find champagne yeasts of 15%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, your yeast has had a good time, but the alcohol level is too high. I would suggest to dilute your brew with the same amount of boiled and cooled water, add wine nutrition salts, and again some champagne yeast to make sure that your mix is completely fermented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T12:15:01.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25432" CreationDate="2021-02-11T07:57:11.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Lallemand's Kveik dry yeast when it becomes warm in my brew cellar. Over the past year I have brewed IPA's, APA's, ESB's and English ales with Kveik, and all have turned out more than satisfactory. This yeast is rated to ferment up to 39degC, which I find quite incredible. It probably reaches a maximum of 29-30degC in my cellar. I use this yeast exclusively once my ambient temperature exceeds 20degC, with a maximum of 25degC being experienced in the past 12 months.&#xA;The yeast is rated as neutral, and this is also my experience. A god send, as I can now brew all year round, instead of the previous 6-8 month window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2021-02-11T07:57:11.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="464" CreationDate="2021-02-14T11:53:27.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;White Oak, Poplar would be the most likely hardwoods that you're going to find. Maple is sometimes classified as a Hardwood, but being in the Firewood sales Business for 35 plus years I know that it's not.&#xA;This doesn't include the years of helping my Dad sell Firewood prior to opening my own business.&#xA;Maple is a light weight wood compared to Oak, but Poplar is as well. IMPO, Poplar shouldn't belong in the hardwood category.&#xA;To me, Oak, Hickory, Walnut, Locust and Sycamore are among the Hardwoods in Missouri.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18934" LastActivityDate="2021-02-14T11:53:27.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-15T06:10:11.400" Score="2" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was planning to make some white wine, I started with some green grapes and after checking the pH it was too low so I added some citric acid which made the juice became too acidic, to bring down the acidity I added some Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking soda) and the pH was balanced out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my fermentation is complete and after cold crashing I realized the wine tastes like soap water, is there anything I can do to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18936" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T10:38:25.180" Title="Help : White wine tastes like soap" Tags="|wine|off-flavor|acidity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20218" CreationDate="2021-02-15T15:39:21.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kveik yeast are also being recommended : &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/q/25432/14909&quot;&gt;Which are the good yeasts and beer styles for fermenting at higher temperatures?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can get as hot as 40º C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14909" LastEditorUserId="14909" LastEditDate="2021-02-22T17:30:47.167" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T17:30:47.167" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-02-22T17:30:47.167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-15T18:59:06.550" Score="0" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;The specification only says &amp;quot;pliable polymer&amp;quot;, but exactly what is it made of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be more specific I would like to know what temperature it can handle? Is it food grade? If it's food grade, to which temperature is it food grade? Ie can I run boiling hot water through the water path? And then use the water afterwards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14579" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T20:08:20.983" Title="What material is the shroud of keglands counter flow chiller made of?" Tags="|equipment|wort-chiller|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25637" CreationDate="2021-02-15T21:18:24.283" Score="1" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bottled my wine bottles with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07ZMXVTMS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Portuguese floor corker&lt;/a&gt;, but the dimple is still in the agglomerated cork after a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait three weeks with the bottle upright.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store a year with the bottle upside down to keep the cork wet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What measures can I take to minimize that dimple?  Why doesn't it show up on commercial bottles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just hearing about potentially hacking in a broader surface with a shaft collar at the end of the aluminum rod that presses in the cork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T23:55:38.780" Title="Dimple in cork persisting after corking" Tags="|bottling|wine|cork|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25452" CreationDate="2021-02-15T22:00:14.497" Score="5" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a recipe for a Scotch Ale and was hoping for some feedback on the grain bill.  The base malt is at 80.8% of the bill, so my specialty grains are under 20% but accumulate to 4lbs total.  Is this too much to reasonably steep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maris Otter Extract: 9.75lbs : 80.8%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crystal Light : 1lbs: 5.4%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crystal 60L : 1lbs: 5.4%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Victory : 1lbs : 5.5%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roasted Barley : 1lbs: 2.9%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of online suppliers only offer 1lb min bags, and I don't brew too often. Not a great way to plan a recipe, so if anyone sees a big problem please say so and I'll adjust accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18940" LastActivityDate="2021-02-16T16:21:38.127" Title="Is 4lbs of speciality grains too much for steeping for a 5gal extract recipe?" Tags="|extract-brewing|steeping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2021-02-16T16:21:38.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have planned many a recipe on what I can get and the bag or half bag sizes I can get it in. It is a totally valid way to plan your brewing and grain/hop/yeast purchases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;~20% speciality malt in a grain bill is absolutely fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2021-02-16T16:21:38.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25447" CreationDate="2021-02-17T07:42:55.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly, but you need patience it seems/ It is probably because of the baking soda that your wine tastes like this. You can't remove the molecules that are responsible for this anymore from your wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I read that this is readily used, but you need a month or two for the results of this addition to drop out from the wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made wine already three times from my own homegrown grapes, and I have actually never adjusted my pH, not even measured it. What I do after fermentation is to rack it off the lees into a jar (without much headspace), then let it rest in a cool place for six to seven months (other people wait a year, maybe for red wine). The acid responsible for the acidity of the wine (tannins, cream of tartar) will drop out. This works for me, I have tasty wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T07:42:55.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1446" CreationDate="2021-02-17T11:04:49.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just use the bottle cap with a tiny pin hole&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18943" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T11:04:49.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21703" CreationDate="2021-02-19T02:18:13.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Brew Like A Monk, Westmalle Monks use 2 Million cells of their primary yeast per millilitre for their bottling of the Westmalle Triple. I have just brewed a clone, so based on the above calculations I should use 0.4 grams of dried yeast/gallon to get the same. Is that correct. I was thinking of using Fermentis Safbrew T58, although for primary I used Wyeast 3787 liquid yeast. the&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18952" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T02:18:13.343" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25433" CreationDate="2021-02-20T10:28:21.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My personal attitude toward siphoning is that it is a completely unnecessary pain in the back. I ferment in buckets fitted with a tap. Siphoning carries a much higher risk of introducing contamination and oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never seen the need for fermenting in carboys. They are expensive, difficult to clean, relatively difficult to handle when full, and require siphoning. Food grade plastic buckets have none of these drawbacks. I agree that glass is a much better oxygen barrier than PP or HDPE, but over the course of a normal fermentation this hardly has any effect at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T10:28:21.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25447" CreationDate="2021-02-20T10:38:25.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not too much you can do, I'm afraid. From what you write, I suspect that the sodium bicarbonate has left sodium carbonate behind, which is washing soda, i.e. soap, and that's what you're tasting now in your wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might try adding some sort of acid (wine acid blend would seem the weapon of choice here) to neutralize the sodcarb remnants, but you would have to do that judiciously and not go overboard with it. That said, you will always be left with sodium, no matter what you do. Too much sodium does not improve any beverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are able to take a pH reading, you might try to acidify the wine (blending the acid in well) until you're just below 7 and then give it time for the reaction to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own approach would be to run it through a still and make some sort of brandy out of it. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T10:38:25.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24882" CreationDate="2021-02-20T10:46:00.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The product data sheet that comes with the Pectolase enzyme I use is quite clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not use bentonite when adding the enzymes since they will be&#xA;adsorbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pectolase is, of course, added before fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bentonite has several effects: it can adsorb some components and reduce color, but also remove things you want, such as your enzymes. In practice, though, bentonite is mainly used a flocculant, and flocculation / clarification don't make much sense before the fermentation is complete. So using bentonite before the end of fermentation makes little sense, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In closing, i see that most instructions to add it early come from older literature. Offhand I'd say that the insights on how to best use it have progressed over the past century or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T10:46:00.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24167" CreationDate="2021-02-20T15:14:22.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously too late to help you, but I've used 3724 extensively and never had the stall after reading an article about saison yeasts by Drew Beechum. He said that 3724 doesn't perform well under pressure and recommended using a sanitized piece of aluminum foil placed loosely over the fermentation vessel. I use a Ss Brewtech bucket and just lay the foil over the top. I also run the temp up to 90 plus degrees and up to 100 degrees with no ill effects and no stall at all. 3724 isn't the vigorous fermenter that 3711 is, but I get no stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18958" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T15:14:22.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-22T15:24:09.740" Score="2" ViewCount="1098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made mead a few times with perfect results. This time I tried a Cyser in a 1 gal batch. I followed a recipe that, based on the notes, had good results from others. 1 Gal of 100% apple juice, 2lbs honey, nutrient, and energizer, and using Lalvin 71B yeast. I did everything as he said, half of the nutrient and energizer day 1, then the other half day 2. It bubbled great for about a week, then it just stopped. I've waited for just over another week with no results. OG was 1.100, I haven't taken another reading yet, but wanted to know if I should pitch more yeast, or just leave it alone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18972" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2021-02-25T12:13:59.243" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T12:16:21.207" Title="No more bubbling after a week" Tags="|mead|stuck-fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25450" CreationDate="2021-02-23T05:52:08.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a coin reasonably smaller than the 18.5mm diameter to reduce the pressure and spread out the force over a larger area is another hack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.winemakingtalk.com/threads/dimple-on-top-of-cork.6484/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.winemakingtalk.com/threads/dimple-on-top-of-cork.6484/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T05:52:08.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25464" CreationDate="2021-02-23T22:12:07.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my personal experience with wine and beer making, if the fermentation is stuck, it can be a few things, but it usually comes down to the yeast. Either it is too cold, and warming your brew can start it fermenting again. Too hot and the yeast can be killed off, and in some cases, the yeast itself can be faulty. If you think that the temperature is right then, I would opt for a new yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18865" LastEditorUserId="14367" LastEditDate="2021-02-25T12:14:45.513" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T12:14:45.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4353" CreationDate="2021-02-24T10:24:08.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I needed to sweeten and carbonate my flat cider. Done like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carbonated 1 liter with the chinese carbonator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dissolved a few teaspoons of sugar inside 150 ml of still cider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mixed the two above, no more foamy mess&#xA;HTH&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16560" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T10:24:08.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25464" CreationDate="2021-02-25T12:16:21.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key thing with mead is that you need to learn patience.  It should not be done fermenting in a week or two.  Not even a month or maybe not even two months.  Leave it alone completely for at least a couple of months before even thinking about doing anything else to it.  Time fixes a lot of things, especially with mead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T12:16:21.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-26T16:07:20.980" Score="2" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;Curious newbie here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watching the &amp;quot;moonshiners&amp;quot; show the other night and the guys were doing fractional distillation by freezing their mash and removing the ice.  They then simply boiled to remove the methanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it really this simple?  I am heading up to northern Michigan from Florida next month and was thinking of making a strawberry brandy mash before I leave and the it up there to let it freeze for a few nights, then simply burn off the methanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that the proof is not as strong, but I am not concerned too much about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a resource for this?  I have seen a few strawberry brandy recipes, but those are for heat distillation.  I am guessing the mash creation is the same, not too acidic and keep it clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18981" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T02:30:36.457" Title="Fractional Distillation" Tags="|techniques|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25470" CreationDate="2021-02-26T17:14:56.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't just &amp;quot;burn off&amp;quot; the methanol, or you would burn off the ethanol as well. Simply removing the ice is called jacking, and it will raise the proof, but it isn't exactly a brandy. If you want a brandy, just do heat distillation; it will save you time  and effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T17:14:56.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25478" CreationDate="2021-02-27T20:54:06.440" Score="0" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to ferment barley to make whisky (it is perfectly legal in my country, I'm not breaking any law!), the steps before distillation are almost the same than brewing beer (no hops in my case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have finally found the yeast I wanted (Lallemand's &lt;strong&gt;Nottingham&lt;/strong&gt;, a &lt;em&gt;saccharomyces cerevisiae&lt;/em&gt; type used for British Ales), but it is sold in two versions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quite expensive small packages (11 g),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one big pack (1/2 kg) that's a pretty good deal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to buy the big one, but I don't know how to preserve the yeast once the pack is open. My fermenter is 100 litres large, and I would need only a fraction of it for each fermentation round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to preserve the one that is not used immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18983" LastEditorUserId="18983" LastEditDate="2021-03-04T17:41:59.003" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T14:54:29.153" Title="How to preserve an open box of dried yeast?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|reusing-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25474" CreationDate="2021-02-28T16:37:28.990" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 3 weeks in fermenter, doppel bock went from O.G. 1.067 to 1.013, still bubbling occasionally, but not changing. However, after racking to secondary I see no fermentation  or bubbling and wonder if the remaining yeast will be viable enough to carbonate upon bottling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18604" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T17:21:02.470" Title="Lack of fermentation after racking to secondary" Tags="|yeast|bottling|carbonation|secondary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25473" CreationDate="2021-02-28T17:21:02.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, in my experience, there is still enough active yeast present for about 8 weeks.  Beyond that point then I would add just 1-2 grams of fresh yeast.  But you're not there yet so I'm sure it will turn out fine with no additional yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T17:21:02.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25476" CreationDate="2021-03-01T13:51:40.387" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning a Vanilla Coffee Porter this weekend but I'm unable to decide when, or even if I should, rack to a secondary.  My original plan was this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Primary for 7 days in bucket, then add 2 vanilla beans to secondary carboy and rack over.  Let it sit in secondary for 2 weeks.  Add cold brew coffee and priming sugar to bottling bucket, rack over and bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unsure now whether to do a secondary though.  I've been reading that removing the beer from the yeast cake in the primary too early won't allow the yeast to &amp;quot;clean up after itself&amp;quot;.  But racking too late and the yeast won't clear the oxygen out of the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm thinking of doing a primary for 2 weeks, then 1 week in the secondary with the vanilla beans.  However I'd love to hear some advice on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18940" LastActivityDate="2021-03-01T15:39:07.423" Title="Rack to Secondary for Vanilla addition?" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|secondary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25475" CreationDate="2021-03-01T15:39:07.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There really is not reason to transfer for just adding a couple vanilla beans.  I'd just drop them in and replace the airlock and give it a light swirl to get them moving a bit.  You might see some bubbling but its just CO2 escaping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2021-03-01T15:39:07.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25449" CreationDate="2021-03-03T14:59:51.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Home-Brewing-Equipment/Wort-Making-Equipment/Wort-Chillers/Keg-Land-Counterflow-Wort-Chiller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Q/A on williams&lt;/a&gt; brewing reports this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outer plastic hose cannot handle temperatures of over 150 degrees F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-03-03T14:59:51.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25472" CreationDate="2021-03-04T16:46:35.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en/united-states/products/brewing-yeast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lallemand states&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...must be stored dry, below 4˚C (39˚F). Exposure to humidity and&#xA;oxygen will affect the viability and vitality of the yeast. Do not use&#xA;soft packs or sachets that appear to have lost their vacuum. Once a&#xA;pack or sachet is open, use immediately for best results. If kept&#xA;sealed (or re-sealed) under vacuum and stored under appropriate&#xA;conditions, dry yeast can be used until the indicated expiration date,&#xA;which is typically 2-3 years after manufacture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, basically just keep it cold, and put it in a container that will seal tightly with as-little-as-possible extra space for oxygen. And when using the yeast- make sure whatever you're scooping the dry out with is clean. Dry yeasts are pretty resilient, storing as above should be fine. With distilling you have slightly less concern about contamination, but realistically dry yeast carefully stored/sealed is unlikely to get some type of infection on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think vitality-over-time is the bigger issue. Around 1 year, you may need to incrementally increase the amount of yeast you pitch on each run as you'll lose some cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T16:46:35.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6070" CreationDate="2021-03-04T20:28:23.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a stainless steel plate chiller, don't store acid based sanitizers (such as Starsan) as they will eat up the metal. I've been using a Therminator for just over 10 years now, well over 100 batches...and have never had a problem. There is a video online of a guy cutting one open that he had used for several years and there was nothing in there. Nothing. You have to take care of it, obviously. I clean mine within 15 minutes of every use. I used the Blichmann backflush hose hooked up to my sink and flush it with hot water for 2-3 minutes in each direction...I do this for a total of six times...three times in the forward flow and three times in the backward flow directions, alternating between each. I then submerge the therminator in a kettle of water had keep it at a boil for 30 minutes. I then drain it in the sink and tip it back and forth on and off over the period of three days until no water is coming out upon tipping it. Then it goes back on the shelf until the next brew day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18992" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T20:28:23.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25387" CreationDate="2021-03-05T03:00:00.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are certainly 1 gallon kits (3.7L) kits available and you can start cheaper and brew more often doing so. I suggest going this route to begin with until you decide if you really like the hobby. Good brewing software can help you scale recipes meant for larger batches to whatever size you like. I generally convert grain bills to percentages when scaling them for my equipment. Hops are a bit more involved and something like brewersfriend.com recipe builder will help you adjust to match the original recipes IBUs. They actually have a number of brewing related calculators that'll help get you started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16677" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T03:00:00.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25472" CreationDate="2021-03-05T14:54:29.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main enemy of dried yeast is moisture. As long as the yeast remains dry, it remains dormant and preserved. Once it is exposed to moisture in the air, it will begin to absorb said moisture and the shelf life (even when stored at the recommended fridge temperatures of 2-4 degrees Celsius) will start to shift from that of dry yeast to that of liquid yeast. This is why dried yeast is supplied in barrier packaging which is either vacuum (Lallemand) or nitrogen-filled (Fermentis).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So whatever you do, &lt;em&gt;keep your dried yeast as dry as possible&lt;/em&gt;. Airtight containers, tin foil rather than low density polyethylene sandwich, butcher or ziplock bags, and as little air in the package or container as possible will all help to extend the shelf life of your dried yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, dried yeast is fairly hardy, and your yeast won't go off right away in any case but gradually lose viability over time. So if you have concerns about the viability of your yeast as a result of storage conditions and time, simply pitch a little more to compensate and you'll generally be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T14:54:29.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="680" CreationDate="2021-03-07T02:38:55.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest fermenting soda is probably not a good idea. This is because alcohol made from synthetic sugars always comes out weird. Usually it's not even recommended to add sugar to a mixture to produce alcohol, because using any kind of sugar that isn't completely natural just makes the result bad. If you want a alcoholic soda I'd recommend just mixing in some sort of high proof spirit, like vodka or something, rather than trying to ferment the soda itself. Soda flavoring also pretty much 100% comes from the sugar, so when the yeast eats that you're not left with anything, which is why your end result didn't taste anything like Mtn Dew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18997" LastActivityDate="2021-03-07T02:38:55.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25484" CreationDate="2021-03-08T09:09:03.747" Score="2" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;In his book &amp;quot;The Complete Joy of Homebrewing&amp;quot;, Charlie Papazian tells us to add gelatin to the beer just before bottling, at the same time we add priming sugar. (to clarify the beer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't heard anyone else add gelatin this way. It seems that the consensus is to add gelatin at an earlier stage, particularly right after a cold crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any disadvantage to adding gelatin at this late stage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19000" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T02:49:50.717" Title="Is there any disadvantage to adding gelatin just before bottling?" Tags="|gelatin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25483" CreationDate="2021-03-08T12:09:11.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only advantage I can think of is that it resolves two issues at the same time if you add the gelatin with the priming sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this shortcut will also result in more sediment in the bottom of every bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I definitely think it is advantageous to add the gelatin ahead of time, give the haze a chance to settle out for at least a few days, then bottle after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T12:09:11.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25470" CreationDate="2021-03-09T17:17:52.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Just&amp;quot; boiling off the methanol may be difficult, not impossible, but I think it would require very good temp control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding freeze distillation or Jacking (hence Apple Jack) I found this article that seems to be reasonably grounded - &lt;a href=&quot;https://boozemakers.com/freeze-distillation-make-liquor-without-still/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://boozemakers.com/freeze-distillation-make-liquor-without-still/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T17:17:52.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25483" CreationDate="2021-03-11T02:49:50.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a product called a Beer Fining, which looking at the ingredients was just gelatine. That suggested to mix with some warm water and add to Beer about 24 hours before bottling. This sounds better to me as it eliminates the only downside as the sediment it does settle out will be left in the fermenter rather than in the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems that this is a common process without any downsides other than the sediment it creates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19003" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T02:49:50.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24995" CreationDate="2021-03-11T03:02:21.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.034 is a high finishing gravity for a beer. What was your starting gravity? As others noted, temperature can make a big difference to yeast activity. But If there is visible activity you should let it do its thing even if the SG is stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19003" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T03:02:21.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="680" CreationDate="2021-03-11T03:19:08.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Packaged soda contains preservatives intended to prevent microbial activity such as Sodium Benzoate and Phosphoric acid. I would guess this is interfering with the yeast. Also it is quite acidic overall, some google links say PH around 3.3. This would also cause problems with the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others are saying just add vodka (you can distil your own if you really want to ferment something and it's legal where you live) to the soda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19003" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T03:19:08.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25491" CreationDate="2021-03-11T12:44:57.270" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a big pot to cook my mash, it's 150 liters (~40 gallons) and a 100 liters fermenter (26+ gallons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I prepared my mash, converted my starch into sugars and then boiled it to sterilize it, I want to filter the grains out and keep the liquid part only for further fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also like to sparge the grains, but it's so much and so heavy, I'm not sure how to do it alone. I can't use brewing bags because they aren't big enough (and they would become too heavy anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18983" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T15:21:00.467" Title="How should I sparge large amount of mash?" Tags="|all-grain|sparge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25490" CreationDate="2021-03-11T15:21:00.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, you should never boil your mash before filtering. (1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat water to correct temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add milled grains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mash for the time needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filter and sparge wort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boil filtered wort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, the best way to filter and sparge would be to use a false bottom, a manifold or a filter screen. If you go BIAB, you need a hoist to lift up your bag and let it drain into your kettle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Except when doing decoction brewing, but in that case only parts of the mash are boiled separately with the intention of raising the mash temperature by adding the boiling decoction to the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T15:21:00.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-11T22:38:55.987" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on brewing an American Wheat Ale with extract soon and looking for advice on specialty grains. I'm reading suggestions to not use any specialty grains, but I thought I'd see if anyone had luck adding any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recipe with look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4lbs Wheat DME&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2lbs Light LME&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1oz Cascade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1oz Centennial&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wyeast 1056&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably ferment it around 64F in the hope of a fruity addition from the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18940" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T11:58:14.573" Title="Extract American Wheat Specialty Grain recommendations?" Tags="|extract-brewing|specialty-grains|wheat-beer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25492" CreationDate="2021-03-11T23:05:15.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO you've got a nice beer here that will be really drinkable for the season when it's ready in a few weeks. Really, there isn't a need for specialty grains unless you want to just add them out of habit. In that case you could use a pound of some light 2 row and a pound of american wheat. But I don't think it's going to really effect your profile/abv/color very much. I'd avoid any crystal malts which I think will dent the drinkability of this beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T23:05:15.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25492" CreationDate="2021-03-13T11:58:14.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest steeping a pound of Carapils. It will improve the grainy flavors that you just can’t get from extract alone, and since it is already converted (caramel/crystal malt), no mashing is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively or eventually, you may want to move towards a partial mash brewing process to further enhance malt flavors, including those you can get from base malts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T11:58:14.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25496" CreationDate="2021-03-17T21:38:00.813" Score="3" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl;dr; I sanitized my mash pot, fermenter, and everything with water.  Is it ruined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm two days into fermentation of a high gravity imperial stout, and the yeast is burping nicely.  Due to a mix up between my wife and I, I just discovered that the star san spray bottle I used to sanitize everything was actually just water.  Certainly this is not ideal, but is it dangerous?&#xA;Should I let my brew ferment and see how it tastes, or give up now and throw it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19028" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T22:39:40.247" Title="Accidentally used 100% unsanitized gear for brew - should I toss it?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|sanitation|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25495" CreationDate="2021-03-17T21:57:36.413" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your brew is fine. If there's a problem it will be obvious when you taste it. Relax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17380" LastEditorUserId="17380" LastEditDate="2021-03-18T09:17:05.240" LastActivityDate="2021-03-18T09:17:05.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2021-03-23T19:20:41.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well yes I hear the facts all round, all I can say is I have used sugar for years to brew with mostly good results.... However I decided to change to fermenting with dextrose but conditioning still with sugar and I must say the brews are crisper and sharper tasting... Not a definitive comment as I only brew lagers but the decision is ultimately the finished product for which a very happy bunny!..... just try it&#xA;Ps fishing around you can get dextrose on line at £30 appr; for a&#xA;25 k bag delivered so not that much more compared to sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17541" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T19:20:41.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25495" CreationDate="2021-03-23T22:39:40.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your gear was (at least reasonably) clean chances of an infection making the brew dangerous is absolutely tiny. Botulism or something actually nasty is very unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific brewing strains of yeast are relatively very aggressive and will tend to out compete some random wild yeast or bacteria and kill it off with ethanol a few days in. So as long as it is bubbling away the yeast is doing its job. Remember in olden times fermenting was a way to make and keep liquids safe to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there might be some affect on the taste and you can only judge this once it's done. You could consider drawing a small sample to check gravity and progress and tasting that as well. Just remember a partially fermented brew will taste kind of weird at the best. Anyway, in conclusion, wait and see if you like how it tastes in the end! It might end up a tiny bit off or different than you wanted but still nice anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19003" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T22:39:40.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15155" CreationDate="2021-03-23T23:18:11.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This mix of water, sugar and yeast could be called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wash_(distilling)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wash&lt;/a&gt;. Some people use this as a cheap method to feed a pot or reflux still to produce high percentage spirits (to get essentially Vodka but very cheaply). If you allow the fermentation to complete, the majority of the yeast will fall to the bottom and settle &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yeast_flocculation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in a process called flocculation&lt;/a&gt; after which it will be even more agreeable. Although this active yeast is perfectly fine to drink it will taste a bit better after it settles down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of the same process, but starting from any kind of fruit juice be called prison wine. How nice it tastes is variable depending on what you use but it is a pretty common and very cheap way to get wasted if that is your goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19003" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T23:18:11.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25517" CreationDate="2021-03-24T21:00:05.787" Score="1" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm bottle conditioning. Went back to my high school days to compute the grams of sugar I need to add to get a specific volume of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; &lt;em&gt;per gallon&lt;/em&gt; (because I do such small batches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm wondering is, when I'm computing (however accurately) the volume of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; that's going to be produced for carbonation, can I say something about how many points ABV it will change? For example, what ABV does a 5% beer with enough sugar for 2 additional volumes of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; end at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking 1 volume of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; should corresponds to 1 volume of alcohol, which by volume should be exactly 1 point? In my example, that would mean a 5% beer + 2 volumes CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; would be 7%? But that seems high and I can't figure out what's wrong with my math here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18256" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T19:28:48.877" Title="Is one volume of Co2 one point of ABV?" Tags="|carbonation|bottle-conditioning|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-25T00:23:49.580" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok so I'm making some hard alcohol from a sugar-wash. I used too little yeast and fermentation ended up halting at like 7% ABV, it then stood around for like a week and a half till I got the new yeast. I freeze distilled most of it after it finished, hopefully at around 13% but can't tell because I added some water with the new yeast, used a sterile syringe and distilled water. Because I used a new container and my calculations were waaaay off, I got something really sweet, so I'm using it as a base for alcoholic lemonade instead of the usual ultrasonic aged whisky I make. I drank like 2 glasses and I'm fine, but I drank them slowly in the evenings. It has a bit of a weird off-taste, but, to me at least, not bad, more fermenty, even though stronger then the one I get when I make kwass(didn't get time to turbo clean it yet though). My question is, is there any chance it has something harmful in it from just a sugar wash? Because with the halt and all the process took like a month, even though it was mostly hermetically sealed for that time. I'm a bit paranoid about getting drunk on it. Even after freeze distilling it's not strong enough to light on fire but if I heat like 100 ml of it and keep an open flame on top, I get like a second of yellow flame(methanol probably) then it goes out and start burning transparent or blue in the dark, I never let it go till the end cause it seems like it wanted to burn for a while. By the burn test the methanol content should not be an issue(I think). Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19042" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T18:30:28.043" Title="Toxic compounds, weirder situation then usual, much weirder" Tags="|secondary-fermentation|contamination|stuck-fermentation|alcohol-content|chemistry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25504" CreationDate="2021-03-25T18:30:28.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, from brewing just with yeast, and even from a bit of freeze distilling, you won't get harmful chemicals in your beer. Also not from letting it stand before you added other yeast. It could get contaminated with other bacteria, yeasts or fungi, but at 7% alcohol at that point, I doubt if they would feel fine and ferment further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test with the flame does not mean anything. Ethanol and methanol burn the same. A yellow flame is just incomplete combustion. Once the alcohol is warm enough, you get a proper complete combustion, signified by a blueish flame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T18:30:28.043" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25516" CreationDate="2021-03-29T08:40:30.220" Score="1" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make an homemade liqueur, like Limoncello, but with oranges.&#xA;To begin, I've added orange zests to 500 grams of 96% alcohol.&#xA;Now, I'm puzzled about the sugar syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the beginning I thought that 500 grams of alcohol + 500 grams of water + 500 grams of sugar = 1.5 liter of liqueur at 33% of alcohol. After some research I learned it's not that simple. I should consider density, convert mass to volume, and probably something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here I am, looking for a tool/spreadsheet/formula to do this math.&#xA;Something as simple as: given the amount (in grams) of alcohol, sugar and water, you will obtain a solution of a certain amount in liter with a certain percentage of alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated, I'm a total newbie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19055" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T17:01:17.220" Title="How to calculate liqueur alcohol percentage and final volume" Tags="|alcohol-content|alcohol|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25508" CreationDate="2021-03-29T17:49:09.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most alcohol is labeled with ABV (Alcohol by Volume). Therefore, if you have 1L of 96% alcohol mixed with 1L of water, you will have 2L of 48% ABV. Looking at density is something we do when fermenting to determine how much sugar has been converted to alcohol, but here you are just diluting and adding sugar; so you will not need to worry about densities of liquids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary: Use volume to calculate your ABV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17776" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T17:49:09.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22908" CreationDate="2021-03-31T03:23:22.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so I actually tried this. I made a simple gruit(Beer with herbs instead of hops), and I just used neem as the herb. It did not interfere with the yeast at all and created an interesting drink. It tastes a lot like neem tea, and is nice and bitter, but also tastes malty like beer. When warm and un-carbonated, it's not great, but when cold and carbonated in a keg, it's great! I feel if gives you a more floaty and euphoric buzz compared to normal beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19063" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T03:23:22.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-30T21:47:49.810" Score="2" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made beer from a kit a number of times before, nothing special, and I've let the beer crash from between 1 to 3 months (temperatures between 13º and 16º), but I'm now wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a standard duration for a cold crash, after which &amp;quot;most&amp;quot; of the suspended yeast will have settled, but there still remains enough suspended yeast to finish pressurizing in the bottle?  If there is little benefit of crashing after x days, then I'd like to know when, because every day it's in the carboy is one more day I'm not enjoying my beer! :-D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12574" OwnerDisplayName="Daniel Bragg" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T13:00:31.203" Title="Cold Crashing beer - how much time?" Tags="|yeast|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25513" CreationDate="2021-03-31T13:00:31.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the type of beer. Cold crashing isn't necessary, but works better the longer it goes. For a typical ale, I usually wouldn't bother for more than 3 days mostly 'cause I prefer fresh over crystal-clear. However, for something like a lager, going a month really smooths out the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that your cold crash range temps are in celcius. If that's the case and you have the capacity- try going colder temps (closer to 5ºc at least) for shorter times (1-3 days).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to worry about 'over-crashing' or anything. Unless (and perhaps even if) you use a serious micron filter- there will be enough yeast in suspension to carbonate your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T13:00:31.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7262" CreationDate="2021-03-31T16:42:04.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have brewed Steam lager twice at 20-22°C(68-71°F) using SafLager W-34/70 which has an ideal temp range of 12–15°C (53.6-59°F). We hit FG in 4 days, and bottled 3 days later. Both times at these temps the lager was delicious, and a few brewer friends were shocked when I told them what temp it was brewed at. Steam lager can be excellent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the higher temps it threw off a lot of sulphury aroma during fermentation, but once it had finished an sat for a couple of days it tasted fantastic so into bottles it went.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have also brewed the same beer starting at 20C and dropping to 8C to lager for  4 weeks. And, yes the beer was different, but both were very drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T16:42:04.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25508" CreationDate="2021-03-31T17:01:17.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's see if we can reverse engineer this :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The density of 95% ABV spirit is ~ 0.8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore: 500g/0.8 =&amp;gt; ~625ml of 95% spirit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;500g water is 500ml. but your 500g of sugar as it disolves will affect the volumes. In future I would make your sugar syrup, and then measure it in your 250ml cup, and measure out your spirit also in said cup. Will make the calculations much easier and remove the guess work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that ... 500g sugar in 500ml water is 50/50 w/w solution and is a 50 brix solution. Using a Brix lookup table we can see that the density of this solution is 1.22854.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore your 1kg of sugar solution 50/50 w/w has a volume of 1/1.22854 =&amp;gt; 814ml.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we take the 95% abv volume as roughly what it would be for 96% and take the 814ml. Then we have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.96*625 =&amp;gt; 600 ml of total alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;625+814 =&amp;gt; 1439 ml total volume&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;that gives us 600/1439 * 100 =&amp;gt; 41.69% ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or at least something close to that. Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T17:01:17.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25503" CreationDate="2021-04-01T00:56:48.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are off by about a factor of 10.  To hit 2 volumes CO2, by my calcs (complicated), I figure you will need about 19 grams of sugar per gallon.  This will, in effect, add about 2 gravity points to the total gravity of the beer, which will ferment out completely and increase your alcohol by a very small amount, by about 0.2% ABV.  So it does look like all these numbers are related, on a per-gallon basis.  So then if you wanted 3 volumes CO2, you will need to add extra sugar per gallon (3/2 times 19, I guess) which will result in roughly 0.3% ABV added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you were on the right track, but might have missed a decimal point in there somewhere.So, bottom line, your 5.0% ABV beer with sugar to hit 2 volumes CO2 should turn out at about 5.2% ABV.  If it matters much to you.  Most people don't really care about tiny alcohol percentages.  If you're selling it and/or putting on a label, though, then maybe it matters more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T00:56:48.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4274" CreationDate="2021-04-01T16:47:37.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this earthy woody taste in my IPAs before I started using Camden tablets to remove chlorine and chloromine so perhaps it it some kind of chlorophenol that causes it? I also taste it in some&#xA;commercial IPAs. Another possibility is we are sensitive to cohumulone in hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14133" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T16:47:37.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25503" CreationDate="2021-04-01T19:28:48.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: it's less than 1/4 point ABV per volume of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; &lt;em&gt;added&lt;/em&gt; at bottling time. As @rob said, that &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; negligible for my personal level of homebrew measurement precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To provide some math to back up @dmtaylor's answer, here's what I found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this thread &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=5882.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=5882.0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 grams of sugar in enough water to make 1 liter total gives you a solution that is 10% sugar.  This corresponds to 10 brix, which is ~1.040.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this article &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/article/master-the-action-carbonation/#:%7E:text=The%20amount%20of%20CO2,Temperature%20and%20Pressure%20(STP)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/article/master-the-action-carbonation/#:~:text=The%20amount%20of%20CO2,Temperature%20and%20Pressure%20(STP)&lt;/a&gt;, I computed that 1 volume of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is 15.25 g sugar per gallon, which divided into 3.8 L, is approximately 4 g sugar per L of beer. Assuming that 4 g has negligible volume displacement, that gives me 0.4&lt;sup&gt;o&lt;/sup&gt;Bx ~= 2 gravity points (1.002). At 100% Apparent Attenuation, that would give me about 0.25% ABV per volume of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;, or 0.5% ABV for a typical (for me) 2 volumes CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combine that with this article about apparent attenuation &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-attenuation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://beerandbrewing.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-attenuation/&lt;/a&gt; and typical attenuation around 70-80%, should give me &amp;lt;= 80% * 2 GP = 1.6 GP of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this calculator &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/&lt;/a&gt; 1.002 -&amp;gt; 1.0004 gravity drop, I get up to 0.2% ABV per volume CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since that validates what @dmtaylor said, I'll consider that good enough math for now. If somebody can do the math from moles ethanol to points ABV, I'll be very happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18256" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T19:28:48.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-02T17:50:44.897" Score="3" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time posting to this forum, so if I make some edict mistakes I apologize in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have brewed this recipe, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipe/beer-recipe-of-the-week-crabapple-lambicky-ale/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipe/beer-recipe-of-the-week-crabapple-lambicky-ale/&lt;/a&gt;, for the second time and this time there are white splotches coming up on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am fairly certain this is contamination but I am not sure what I should do. My instinct is to bottle it now and see what it tastes like when it is carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is only my second contamination so I do not have a lot of experience with this. Any advice is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;The beer that I brewed did have a sour pitch added, &lt;a href=&quot;https://torontobrewing.ca/products/lallemand-wildbrew-sour-pitch-10-g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://torontobrewing.ca/products/lallemand-wildbrew-sour-pitch-10-g&lt;/a&gt;. It is a lactobacillus plantarum bacteria and looking online a lactobacillus contamination can look like what I'm seeing. I'm concerned though cause I do not remember seeing it last year and I am wondering if I should bottle it early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TAFXb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;][1&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AyeK1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AyeK1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;]&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19077" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T16:52:06.580" LastActivityDate="2023-11-08T17:02:55.417" Title="What contamination do I have and is it salvagable?" Tags="|beer|contamination|lambics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25520" CreationDate="2021-04-05T11:52:51.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks a little like the beginning of this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brew-dudes.com/infected-beer/597&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brew-dudes.com/infected-beer/597&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I'd probably go with a taste test to figure out what to do next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure how long you've been brewing (and apologies if this adds insult to injury, not my intent) but contamination is rare from what I understand. You may want to take a close look at how you are cleaning/sanitizing. Depending on the frequency of this contamination, you might have a crevice somewhere in your equipment where stuff is not getting cleaned up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T16:52:51.467" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T16:52:51.467" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-07T16:08:30.147" Score="4" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Precipitated chalk can be used to increase the pH of a wine (reduce acidity). Precipitated chalk typically comes with an instruction such as (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ACID-REDUCER-PRECIPITATED-CHALK-100g-Home-brew-and-wine-additive/162760044356&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Add 1g per gallon to reduce the acidity (increase pH) by 1.5 ppt&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand this instruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parts-per_notation#Thousand_vs._trillion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The term 'ppt' is ambiguous&lt;/a&gt;. Does this refer to 'parts per thousand' or 'parts per trillion'?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In any case, how does this relate to pH? pH is a logarithmic scale. If I want to increase pH from 2.5 to 4, would I add 1g per gallon?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16553" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T12:50:40.910" Title="How to reduce acidity with precipitated chalk" Tags="|acidity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25522" CreationDate="2021-04-08T12:50:40.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK this is a great question; and with most great questions the answer is... yes complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is parts per thousand, not trillion. factor of 10^6 better but not really waht we need to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;pH... well it does relate to pH in a round about way... Oh, why did I ever do this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL; DR; -&amp;gt; it is about titration g/liter to neutralise a solution, well to trip a marker of known pH(often to about pH 8.2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, you want to know about pH like a brewer who does not do titration as a random passtime. In a former life I did do titrations, but never as a passtime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore we need some maths [this was more annoying than I expected it to be, but it came out witha answer that seems reasonable.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When titrating a solution for acidity, we need to find hydrogen (H+) ions in the solution, we choose an acid as a reference in order to express the acidity as a concentration [ppt].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most winemaking texts (some differ) use tartaric acid as the reference, with units of either percent or grams/liter (parts per thousand, or ppt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;We will be doing all this in moles, grams and litres&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USGal -&amp;gt; 3.785 litres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Imperial Gal -&amp;gt; 4.454 litres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ounce -&amp;gt; 28.35g&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;pH in Mol H+/litre&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pH 1 -&amp;gt; 0.1 Mol/l H+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pH 2 -&amp;gt; 0.01 Mol/l H+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pH 3 -&amp;gt; 0.001 Mol/l H+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pH 4 -&amp;gt; 0.0001 Mol/l H+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pH 5 -&amp;gt; 0.00001 Mol/l H+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you want to go from 2.5 to 4 but we are going to keep this simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To go from 3 to 4 we need to reduce the concentration of H+ ions from 0.01 to 0.001 mol/l.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we can find out that Tartaric Acid  150.09g/mol and yields  2 H+ ions per unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If acidity is in grams per litre of TA then if 1 gram of TA yields (1/150)*2 mol of H+, which is 0.013mol of H+, then one ppt 0.013mol/litre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing pH3 to 4 requires a reduction of 0.009 mol per litre H+ so I guess this would need 0.009/0.013 ppt, which is 0.69 ppt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore you would want 0.69/1.5 -&amp;gt; g/gal to increase pH from 3 to 4&#xA;Which is roughly 0.5 g/gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I am not entirely certain that is right.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know ideal range from a google search - &amp;quot;Preferred titratable acidity levels are 7 - 9 g/L for white wines, and 6 - 8 g/L for red wines&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest adding 0.2g/gal, wait 24H and test again, then 0.2g and checking over a few days how the pH changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has some good references for this rather than me going of 20 year old chemistry and some googled bits and pieces please add on, also if anyone notices any glaring holes in my working please drop a comment below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T12:50:40.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16488" CreationDate="2021-04-08T19:25:41.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just for context on my experience; I make a lot of limoncello at the little Italian bar I manage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In future I advise adding your water first, and then stirring the granulated sugar through afterwards.  I know making a syrup is easier in many ways, and involves considerably less stirring, but unless you've got detailed notes on your various concentrations, as you experienced, things can get confusing very quickly, and you can end up with a drink that is either far higher or lower proof than you intend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Proof-then-sweeten method gives you a bit more control in two main ways;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can accurately calculate the ABV of your final product using either measuring jug OR scales, as (in theory) you know your initial ABV and Vol, and when adding water you can measure either by weight or vol for a known result.&#xA;This will make your (V1&lt;em&gt;C1)/(V2&lt;/em&gt;C2) Calc far easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can then measure your overall weight of the lemon oil/ethanol/water solution and add sugar to this solution on the scales.  Then, by tasting as you add and dissolve sugar bit by bit, you can figure out a g/L sugar concentration that suits your tastebuds.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Jot this down!  It will give you a good baseline to work towards the next time you make a limoncello, and save you from having to go through the somewhat tedious add/measure/stir/taste/repeat process again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, every batch will be a little different, because the lemons you get may vary from tree to tree, season to season.  Sometimes I end up with a huge amount of really oily skin from 3kg of lemons, sometimes it can be quite waxy and dry.  Once you have your target g/L sweetness, try and replicate that in various batches, but come in just short to begin with so that you can taste and make sure you don't over sweeten and have time to taste your way up to full sweetness.  I usually aim to land about 50g or 1/2 Cup (overall, not 50g/L) short of my intended g/l and then work up to where I like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of course, you can always add more sugar, but it can be very hard to reduce the sweetness without thinning the flavour if you add too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is kind of answering a parallel question, but I hope this helps yourself or someone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19091" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T19:25:41.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-10T02:37:10.183" Score="2" ViewCount="5989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been making Limoncello for about 3 years.  It tastes really good, but I can't get the cloudy appearance the Commercial product has.  Looking at recipes for &amp;quot;Creme di Limoncello&amp;quot; (which uses milk and cream), I am thinking of substituting some no fat milk for water in the simple syrup.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Does anyone have an opinion about this, or tried it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19099" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T17:53:05.683" Title="How to get Limoncello to look cloudy" Tags="|cloudy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-13T06:59:47.557" Score="0" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm making high ABV alcohol with just plain sugarwash, high alcohol yeast and freeze distilling. I added chitosan and kieselsol(turbo cleaner) to clear it before freeze distilling but my yeast was still live so it did nothing. I then heat up the liquid to 65 degrees to kill the yeast and maybe evaporate any weird things. Something smells and tastes really off, while before it was drinkable and actually pretty pleasant, even though it was just fermented sugar wash. I'm curious as to why the heating might have caused this and if it's still salvageable by normal distilling. I might give up on freeze distilling and just get a normal still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19042" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T06:59:47.557" Title="Weird taste and smell after heating" Tags="|yeast|troubleshooting|distillation|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25528" CreationDate="2021-04-13T14:29:28.303" Score="1" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to homebrewing, I made only 2 BIAB batches. I am using a 25l keg and a burner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My pre mash batch is 21-23l since I don't want the wort to overflow when boiling. In a biab method since there is no recirculation and sparging, I think we loose 3-5l until the fermentation bucket. Due to that loss and that I can't chill the wort to the desired temp (I brew for 2 hours and try to chill for 3 hours) before adding the yeast, can I boil and freeze 3-5l of water and add them in my fermenter to cool my wort down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is possible, can I use the grains and hops for a 25l batch in a smaller water ratio (15l) and then proceed with sparging (5l) to reach 20 l before boil and then add 5l of ice before fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T15:46:54.323" Title="BIAB, Can I use lees water for mashing and then top it for cooling?" Tags="|mash|boil|biab|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25527" CreationDate="2021-04-13T15:46:54.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it will work and I believe that doing so is a common trend among BIAB brewers. What you're describing is pretty similar to extract brewing (except you're sort of making your own extract) so there are some considerations around brewing with a semi-diluted wort... mostly nitpicky things around IBU calculations that probably aren't going to make-or-break you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure you're doing your calculations so your dilutions will still hit your numbers. If you have a refractometer on hand and can check your gravity mid-brew it may help to have a bag of dry malt on hand to shore up in the event you come up short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T15:46:54.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-14T12:48:25.183" Score="2" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 6 weeks in bottles my doppel bock is flat. Do I  dump this batch and start over, or is there a way to salvage it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18604" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T18:36:01.850" Title="Flat beer after bottling" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25529" CreationDate="2021-04-14T13:19:28.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Happened to my Oaked Rum Ale, in my case the problem was too little priming sugar in the bottles (I decided to prime in each bottle as I didn't have a secondary vessel, and ended up having the wrong weight per bottle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've very little experience in home brewing, so take it with a pinch of salt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could move them to a warmer place and check if they improve;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open, add more priming sugar and cap again (with increased risk of contamination);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thrown in a barrel and use CO2 capsules (with the downside of having to drink it in a much shorter time span).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case as the flavor was still good, I used most of them for cooking stews and consumed the smaller bottles, which were not so bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19111" LastActivityDate="2021-04-14T13:19:28.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25529" CreationDate="2021-04-14T13:58:23.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Open 2 or 3 bottles and add some sugar syrup (you might need to pour out some of the beer to make room). Re-cap and leave for a couple weeks. If it comes good do the same with the rest of the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17380" LastActivityDate="2021-04-14T13:58:23.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25525" CreationDate="2021-04-16T02:08:02.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Limoncello cloudiness comes from what is generally called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ouzo_effect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Louching&lt;/a&gt;, where some of the oils that are soluble in alcohol but not in water come out of solution as it is diluted. If your limoncello isn't cloudy, its because it either doesn't have enough of these oils, or isn't low enough proof, or some combination of the two factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16783" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T02:08:02.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25470" CreationDate="2021-04-16T02:30:36.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot reliably boil off just methanol, as its &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relative_volatility&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;relative volitility&lt;/a&gt; in an ethanol/water mixture is too close to that of the ethanol itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other chemicals produced by fermentation that are also unpleasant/toxic such as acetone and acetylaldehyde that can be separated to a certain degree, but will still carry off a fair bit of ethanol with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, in conventional distillation, there are also a lot of unwanted compounds that come across at higher boiling points, that you have no way of separating with this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freeze concentration/jacking is not fractional distillation as you have no way of separating fractions, and so is probably not suitable if you want to concentrate what you start with a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16783" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T02:30:36.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25384" CreationDate="2021-04-16T02:52:38.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using a simple pot still, you may not get high enough proof to burn on your first run. Without knowing actual volumes and ABVs here it is hard to say what is the case here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally when producing potable spirits, most things are distilled again a second time, or a reflux column of some kind is is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are running a second distillation there is no need to make cuts on the first, only the second. If you still forget to make cuts, you can always dilute it back down a bit and distill again, although you will lose flavour this way (if you are making a vodka then this is desirable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16783" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T02:52:38.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25318" CreationDate="2021-04-16T03:03:38.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different recipes / still charges will lead to different cuts, and so relying on fixed measurements is only useful for controlled, established recipes. Instead, you should learn to assess the spirit coming off the still using aroma and taste to determine which parts are desirable to keep. Use aroma first and if it smells bad, no need to taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the best ways of learning this is to collect your run in a series of small containers and then compare them once the run is done. This gives you plenty of time to assess each fraction and even test blends before committing to a final blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16783" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T03:03:38.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17214" CreationDate="2021-04-20T12:16:49.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Erythritol inhibits (a little) yeast cell respiration, so I use it on priming as you stated, to avoid negative effects on primary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19124" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2021-04-29T11:37:08.293" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T11:37:08.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25543" CreationDate="2021-04-20T22:21:32.660" Score="1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a lager and did a forced diacetyl test similar to the one found here - &lt;a href=&quot;https://spikebrewing.com/blogs/ask-a-pro/an-easy-diy-diacetyl-test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://spikebrewing.com/blogs/ask-a-pro/an-easy-diy-diacetyl-test&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OSHA recommends less than 25 ppb for short term inhalation exposure (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.osha.gov/flavorings-related-lung-disease&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.osha.gov/flavorings-related-lung-disease&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article states that homebrew can have diacetyl up to 1 ppm - &lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/article/brewing-science-controlling-diacetyl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://byo.com/article/brewing-science-controlling-diacetyl/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My beer had a ton of diacetyl shown during the test and also from taste. So my question is how much risk is there in a forced test every now and then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19134" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T15:37:48.783" Title="Safety of a forced diacetyl test" Tags="|lager|safety|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25540" CreationDate="2021-04-22T15:37:48.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OSHA standard is an inhalation warning of pure diacetyl in air.  You're measuring diacetyl in a liquid.  Its very different saftey-wise.  As long as you aren't aerosolizing your samples and inhaling it you're fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T15:37:48.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-22T17:49:53.770" Score="1" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm growing my first hops in planters, and each rhizome sends up several vines.  (Rather, they will; they're just breaking ground, now.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: do I train &amp;amp; keep all vines?  Just the biggest/strongest one and cut the others back?  Something in between?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17825" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2021-04-28T13:38:36.940" LastActivityDate="2021-05-28T14:06:55.693" Title="How many hop vines to keep per rhizome?" Tags="|hops|growing-hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25546" CreationDate="2021-04-23T14:37:18.310" Score="2" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed my 3rd biab batch last Saturday and pitched 3 white lab liquid yeast(i was told to do that because the yeast were expired). I was left with 15l and filtered it using a cheese cloth as I pour it in mu fermentation bucket. My fermenter is the typical 30l plastic bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was left with 15l of headspace and controlled the temp between 20-22C. But I haven't seen any bubbling from the airlock but it smells like beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I worry, that my fermentation is not working? How long should I ferment it, if I am filling bottles next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T19:14:49.110" Title="Huge headspace and pale ale fermentation time" Tags="|fermentation|secondary-fermentation|ale|beginner|pale|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25545" CreationDate="2021-04-23T19:14:49.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may or may not see bubbling in the airlock. With a lot of head space, it may be reduced, and you may not notice it at all. Watching the airlock is like reading tea leaves... could be true, could not be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to know how fermentation is progressing is to take gravity readings. If the gravity is reasonably close to the expected final gravity and does not change in 24 hours, fermentation is probably done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only need to worry about your yeast if after a few days gravity is still close to the original gravity. In that case you may need to get new yeast, but taste your wort first to make sure nothing else has taken over when there was no yeast active to consume the sugars; even if you have the bucket closed you risk an infection if the wort sits without yeast for weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Not an issue here, just for completeness: fermentation may also have temporarily stopped if you ferment too cold. In that case it will pick up again when temperature rises.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T19:14:49.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25549" CreationDate="2021-04-23T21:45:34.170" Score="2" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;From brewing various recipes, mostly using steeping, I've ended up having several bags of opened, only partially used malts, almost all of which are past their best before date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some are crushed, some are not, some are specialty, some are base. The oldest has a best before date in November 2019, the newest in November 2020.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I googled and found a couple of forum threads on this topic and it seemed like the worse that can happen is that any beer made with stale grains will be less flavourful, but I thought I'd get another opinion here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main question is, is there any danger in using these grains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16686" LastActivityDate="2021-05-04T21:59:22.693" Title="Using malt past its best before date - dangerous?" Tags="|malt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25548" CreationDate="2021-04-26T14:09:33.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is certainly no danger in using them. If you have kept them dry, the worst thing that could have happened is that their enzymatic activity (certainly of the crushed ones) has diminished or disappeared. So if you want to use them, add some percentage of pilsner or lager base malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Castle Maltings or Dingemans specify a maximum of three years for keeping uncrushed malts and 3 months for crushed malts. But, just treat the crushed malts like flour. They will still yield their sugars, starches and proteins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T14:09:33.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25544" CreationDate="2021-04-28T03:06:20.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, I see that you are growing in planters.  While I think this is okay for the first year, think about the quality of the soil in there in subsequent years.  If you do not feed them a LOT of nitrogen, the soil will quickly be depleted and you may very soon want to think about planting them in the ground so that they can establish more permanent roots (rhizomes) and generally grow bigger and better.  Any time that the rhizomes are disturbed or the soil is replaced, the vigor of the plant tends to start all over again.  Don't expect a good crop in any year where the rhizomes are disturbed.  This includes this year if you have just planted them.  They will produce a lot of hops in the 2nd year after planting and every year after if you don't move the rhizomes or soil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to answer your question.  I have been growing hops for almost 15 years now.  For several years I have been allowing 6 bines per plant.  This means that each spring I have to remove several dozen of the baby bines per plant, they seem to produce around 50 bines each if allowed and that would be bad indeed.  However, the total weight harvested at 6 bines per plant per year has been falling for a few years now here, and I keep telling myself that 6 is just too much.  So this year I am pruning them all out except for just 4 bines per plant.  Actually I keep 5 or 6 in the early spring, like right now, because often 1 or 2 of them will break off by bumping into them or while training them onto the strings, and when this occurs then I'll still have a spare ready to go.  But by about mid-May when they begin climbing 2-3 feet high, then it's time to limit them to just about 4 per plant, in my experience.  There is too much competition when there are too many.  And the taller they can grow (or longer, if along a lower fence-line), the more they seem to produce.  The majority of your hops will be at the very top of the plant, with relatively very few down lower.  Too many bines will prevent them from growing tall enough to produce at their optimum, in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that is my recommendation.  As I said, I have been growing hops for almost 15 years.  They come back strong as ever, every year.  They continue to spread farther and farther out from the main plant, if I allowed it.  Otherwise they would have taken over a large portion of my yard.  So I have to pull a few of the rhizomes out of the ground every year at the perimeter to keep the hops growing where I want them to be, and not where I don't.  Containers of course would limit this spread, but at what cost to the long term well being of the plant if the soil quality is depleted over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops are fun and easy to grow.  I use mine for bittering mostly, but the aroma is also wonderful when fresh.  I find the alpha acid content to be very reliable here, about mid to upper range for whichever variety is grown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-04-28T03:06:20.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1936" CreationDate="2021-04-29T06:00:25.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wort grant is a buffer tank, which place between lauter tank and kettle tank, to avoid negative pressure under the bottom of false bottom. Thus it can protect tanks in good condition. During lautering, we can adjust pump speed by VFD control, so we can keep lautering speed same with pump transfer speed, it is able to shape continuously flow. It is most economic type. Of course, we can design level sensor on wort grant, so the pump can open/close automatically at high/low level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19173" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2021-04-30T16:35:55.590" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T16:35:55.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25529" CreationDate="2021-04-30T18:36:01.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the taste has gone bad, dump it.  But if there is no carbonation, and the taste is ok, you can perform a test like &lt;em&gt;Joe Fitzpatrick&lt;/em&gt; suggested.  However,  if you repeat the same mistakes, it won't help you much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really need to answer a few questions to understand what happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What type of bottle and caps did you use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What was the bottle conditionning temperature?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What primming sugar did you use and how much?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the caps are not tight enough, it will let CO2 escape...&#xA;If the temperature is too cold for bottle conditionning, yeast will not eat the sugar to create the CO2.&#xA;If there was not enough sugar, the amount of CO2 will not be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can retry to carbonate a few bottles, but make sure you find and fix the problem before you perform the test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T18:36:01.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-02T23:19:31.370" Score="0" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've finished coldcrashing this cream ale I've been brewing, I took some samples and they tasted great, so I've moved it to an airtight container and added sugar for carbonation. I checked it the next day and these weird tentacle looking things started growing on it. Could this be an infection starting or is it just the yeast doing yeasty things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LK90g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Photo&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dHEIV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Photo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it doesn't seem to have released any CO2 yet, the pressure gague remains at 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19181" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T23:19:31.370" Title="Weird growth 24h after adding sugar for carbonation, is this normal?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|priming|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25548" CreationDate="2021-05-04T21:59:22.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you found in Google there is no danger from using these older grains. There could however be quite a lot of disappointment with the taste when the brew is ready. Also, you have to consider the time wasted. My advice would be to try and use any grains as quickly as possible and when buying just buy what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19190" LastActivityDate="2021-05-04T21:59:22.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25561" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-05T09:36:03.850" Score="1" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Koenig CO2 beer dispenser for 5l mini kegs and was intending reusing the kegs with home brew. Would this work or would the pressure disturb the yeast sediment ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19198" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T09:36:03.850" Title="Can I use a Koenig beer CO2 dispenser for home brew?" Tags="|kegs|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-06T13:05:33.277" Score="2" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a bit of an odd situation. I've been brewing some hard seltzers, simple recipe: 4LB Dextrose + Champagne Yeast + Water + Nutrient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've got an odd issue. 2 of 3 hard seltzers have turned a light pink hue after a few weeks in the fermenter. The first time this happened, I figured it was iron in the water perhaps as I didn't use my standard brewing filter. The second time, I filtered the water carefully. Each time all equipment is carefully sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one hit on the internet I found with a similar phenomenon, and although the issue is unresolved in that thread, someone brought up alanine deprivation and suggested extra yeast nutrient. The first time I brewed, I used probably more yeast nutrient than the latter two times and granted it didn't have any pink hue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However- I can't verify that information. Could lack of yeast nutrient cause a fermented water/sugar mix to turn pink? Is there anything about it that would possibly make it unsafe to consume? Can I counteract the pinkness at this point- or is it too late?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastEditorUserId="18396" LastEditDate="2021-05-06T17:06:06.430" LastActivityDate="2022-02-13T23:47:02.827" Title="Hard seltzer turns pink after a few weeks, why?" Tags="|fermentation|color|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12367" CreationDate="2021-05-06T18:02:33.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was always afraid to squeeze to release tannins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I did something I regret that I need to share: after getting the wort from BIB I decided to extract more sugars from the remaining grains not washing, but pouring hot water and closing the lid for an hour. Result? I got orange juice that would not disappear even after the secondary. Super turbidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely this experiment released more proteins that were in suspension playing with the yeast. I decided to make it a non-filtered IPA but next time I will not repeat this excessive last running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19215" LastActivityDate="2021-05-06T18:02:33.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25567" CreationDate="2021-05-10T04:29:29.263" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my 2nd attempt to make wine. I watched a youtube video and simply went ahead. Because of Corona lockdown, I could not buy the right equipments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps I took to create my white wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressed 7 kgs of green grapes and put them in a 10kg steel container&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since the grapes were not too sweet and I did not have the equipment to measure gravity, I added 1kg of sugar. I thought that would be enough. I did not add any yeast as the video said, that fruit already have natural yeast which will help in fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For 8 days, everyday, I would open the container and mix the contents as shown in the youtube video.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the 8th day, I separated the juice and tasted it. It was way too acidic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have searched the internet and I can't understand how to fix this. I ordered a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B08JJLKFQ2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ph meter&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B084LN432B&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydrometer&lt;/a&gt; to measure the gravity. The ph is &lt;code&gt;2.7&lt;/code&gt;. The hydrometer is yet to arrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix the wine? I think I need to add more sugar and referment it? I have ordered &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B08BJ7D19Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brewers yeast&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07ZPZNY26&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;airlock&lt;/a&gt; as well in case I have to ferment it again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please help me? I do not want to pour 5 litres of grape juice down the drain :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hydrometer came in today&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what the values look like after 8 days of fermentation. So if I go as per &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCyqBNV6u48&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Video&lt;/a&gt;, the fermentation didn't happen. The value had to go below &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5wlUZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5wlUZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19232" LastEditorUserId="19232" LastEditDate="2021-05-10T16:33:47.690" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T18:20:03.530" Title="How do I fix my white wine?" Tags="|wine|acidic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25566" CreationDate="2021-05-10T10:33:36.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have time and patience? Because that is what helps making your wine nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make every year wine from my own grapes, and after fermentation, I put it in a cool place. This way, the wine clears, and a whole amount of tartaric acid drops out. This lowers the acidity of the wine. But that takes a month or six.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refermenting will not increase your pH. The sugar contents only define the amount of alcohol that your wine will contain after fermentation. Acidity is defined by the grape variety and their ripeness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wine acidity is (normally) not measured with a pH meter, but it is possible. Search for &amp;quot;titratable acidity&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, try to find a book for beginners about wine making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit after seeing pictures:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your starting gravity is way too high, your yeast would not ferment out, unless you maybe used a turbo yeast, or a champagne yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dilute your juice with 1.25 l (boiled and cooled) water from 5l to 6.25l. This will move your gravity from 1.110 to 1.080, with a final ABV of 10.5%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a good (classic) wine yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2021-05-10T18:20:03.530" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T18:20:03.530" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-10T13:36:02.347" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently just purchased an oktober sl1 can sealer... I am looking for some intel as far as how much head space do I leave before I seal the lid? Because cans have such a larger surface area at the top as compared to a neck of a bottle i am trying to figure out what the appropriate amount would be? Any info would be much appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19224" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T13:36:02.347" Title="Can conditioning and the amount of head space" Tags="|bottle-conditioning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25571" CreationDate="2021-05-10T21:48:33.277" Score="2" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not exactly a beer homebrew question but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard from many people that drinking 70-96% alcohol (not rubbing alcohol but distilling grapes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example Cyprus traditional drink zivania is made by distilling grapes and the first few batches are pure alcohol that they say is good only for cleaning because of the toxins it has is bad for your health and also can get you blind. On the other hand, in a lot of liqueur recipes, like limoncello, they use 96% alcohol and then they dilute it with syrup to drop down around 40%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are those toxins removed from the alcohol so it is safer?&#xA;I know that you can use vodka but they say that 96 proof has a much better flavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2021-05-11T14:51:05.243" Title="Why do we use 95% alcohol in Liqueurs?" Tags="|alcohol-content|alcohol|distillation|liquor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-11T14:14:19.043" Score="1" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello I am making 3 Day instant beetroot wine. I'm making this in India so I don't have an airlock or a hydrometer or any fancy equipment. I made this wine during last New Year and in 3 days I got an amazing wine that took 1 glass to get An adult drunk. But this time it is not fermenting. it is Day 3 today And there was a large amount of foam at top but no fizzing. I believe its because I added bad yeast. I looked back at the packet of yeast And its 2 months past expiry. Can I add yeast at this point? I can't make a yeast starter because those kind of ingredients are Not Available. I live in a pretty remote area .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was that the yeast had gone bad. I added new yeast and now it is fermenting nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19237" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2021-06-11T21:48:05.537" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T23:03:30.350" Title="Homemade Instant Wine Not Fermenting..Can i add yeast on day 3?" Tags="|fermentation|primary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25569" CreationDate="2021-05-11T14:51:05.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The alcohol in limoncello or other liqueurs is almost always industrially produced, and thus fit for consumption. It does not contain methanol or fusel alcohols. So, made this way, liqueurs are not poisonous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a fermented wash is distilled, the methanol and fusel alcohols escape first because they have a lower evaporation temperature than ethanol. So the first few percent of the distillation are discarded, and then the ethanol is gathered, and the last few percent are also discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you talk about the first few batches, I presume that you are talking about industrial distillation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-05-11T14:51:05.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25413" CreationDate="2021-05-14T19:15:43.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, there might be some yeast still floating around in it. Try sealing it for a while and letting it age. This has always helped mellow out the flavor and then rack out the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18012" LastActivityDate="2021-05-14T19:15:43.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-21T06:35:28.340" Score="1" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like experimenting with different liquids aside from ginger tea and was wondering if cold brew coffee would be viable for a fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was not sure if the acidity of the instant coffee would prevent the ginger bug from feeding off the sugar, or if some other reaction would make it unpalatable or unsafe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19269" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T12:18:15.493" LastActivityDate="2023-02-14T11:03:35.427" Title="Cold Brew Coffee with Ginger bug fermentation" Tags="|ginger-beer|coffee|cold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-22T03:55:26.383" Score="0" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am seeking help from the seasoned brewers on this forum to find a recipe for a beer that I absolutely loved and cannot get anymore of because it was only a seasonal craft beer that Mill St. used to carry here in Ottawa, Ontario and is now, well all dried up of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I read the ingredients listed on the bottle, they listed only (3) key ingredients, Barley, Wheat and Pineapple, while their website describes the beer as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Stand Tall Pineapple Pale Ale has a juicy hop profile with notes of tropical fruit, pineapple, and mango. This brew has an initial mild sweetness and a thick mouthfeel that leads into a pineapple fruit finish.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming i'd like to do a similar 5 gallon homebrew batch, does anyone have or know of a similar recipe profile that would contain these 3 ingredients and how much of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I use wheat malt, toasted wheat flakes or toasted wheat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would roasted or toasted barley work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aussming that I would roast the pineapple and toss it in at the boil or during secondary fermentation stage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I am also really new (like yesterday) to home brewing, what would be the general rule of thumb for strike water/sparge water to grain ratios?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming because of the hop profile of this beer, that they used some kind of hop and didn't mention it on the bottle, what hop would then be used to produce the &amp;quot;tropical flavor&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a million for everyones help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19275" LastEditorUserId="13754" LastEditDate="2021-06-11T21:46:03.750" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T21:46:03.750" Title="5 Gallon Recipe for &quot;Stand Tall Pineapple Pale Ale&quot; - Mill Street Brewery" Tags="|recipe|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-22T15:32:23.777" Score="0" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple old 1 gallon beer brewing kits from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://brooklynbrewshop.com/collections/beer-making-kits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brooklyn Brew Shop&lt;/a&gt;. I never got around to using them, life got in the way. In any event, I still have them, the yeast expired in 2013 (so I'd need new yeast), but would everything else still be good? Everything is Humidically sealed. This is a all grain kit, not a malt extract kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19284" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2021-05-23T13:35:41.157" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T11:34:35.090" Title="Is my old beer mix still good for brewing?" Tags="|all-grain|kits|spoilage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25578" CreationDate="2021-05-23T13:34:45.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd consider throwing them out entirely.  Grain will stale over time.  Typically it should be used within a year or two, otherwise it will take on strange flavors from staling.  If you're curious, you can munch on a few kernels to see what it tastes like.  If you don't mind the taste, you could still brew with it.  But my bet is it will taste &amp;quot;off&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any hops in the kits, they are all rubbish, same as the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're always better off using all fresh ingredients.  You might be able to create a marginally acceptable beer from old stuff, but it's also kind of a waste of the time it took to brew if you aren't producing a beer that is at least fairly good, and potentially great.  When you use fresh ingredients, the odds of a good beer are obviously much higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choice is yours on the malts, but I'd probably not use them.  Throw away anything else in the kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T13:34:45.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25575" CreationDate="2021-05-25T08:43:25.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey so I did a test run myself with some instant coffee and I managed to get it to carbonate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my steps,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 0: Boil water and let cool or used distilled water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 1: Mix instant coffee and water into fermenting vessel, about one tablespoon of instant coffee per cup of water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 2: Allow the beverage to ferment for at least 3 days&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 3: Refrigerate just before your desired carbonation is reached&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 4: Profit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that the carbonation is incredibly slow the first day, and the bubbles are kind of foamier compared to a ginger beer. I added some vanilla bean and cinnamon to mine for some complexity and they come through in the resulting drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19269" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T08:43:25.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25153" CreationDate="2021-05-26T05:42:43.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple reasons why you will have different levels of krausen in different beers. As @Frank van Wensveen pointed out, melanoidins are one source. These are produced by Maillard reactions during the malt kilning process (i.e. making dark malts) as well as during any similar heating process, such as a decoction mash (where a portion of the mash is removed and boiled in a step-mash process).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other sources of high krausen include: using ale yeasts instead of lager yeasts (clearly a bottom fermenting yeast will produce less krausen than a top fermenting yeast), hop oils, proteins, vigorous yeast, and wort density, to name a few.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mere fact that a beer has dark malt is not determinative of krausen level. By way of example, measure the krausen height of a dark ale you brew. Then make a simple blonde ale using K-97 kolsch yeast (a yeast with a notoriously thick, persistent krausen) and measure which is taller. Alternatively, you can view pictures of K-97 krausen for comparison here (or on any similar forum via a simple internet search): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/safale-k-97-questions.586790/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/safale-k-97-questions.586790/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day, the amount of krausen is due to many factors, not simply malt lovibond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19290" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T05:42:43.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-26T22:24:11.653" Score="0" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to home brewing and would welcome the insights and comments of the other home brewers on this website in order to brew a 5 gallon batch of a Wheat and Barley based Pale Ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, what would be the typical grain bill be (for a 5 gallon brew) as well as the water ratios (mash in vs mash out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much thanks and appreciation for everyone's help and support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jay&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19275" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T22:24:11.653" Title="Grain Bill for 5 Gallon (Wheat and Barley Pale Ale)" Tags="|all-grain|recipe|recipe-formulation|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9476" CreationDate="2021-05-31T18:17:48.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is called gushing, and you usually get it with a combination of two factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lot of CO2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lot of &amp;quot;crystallization nuclei&amp;quot; for the CO2 to build bubbles and gas out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have such a beer - I added more sugar in order to get more than usual CO2 and something went wrong during the brew and the beer got &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; cloudy. Every bottle I open gushes almost immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have that, there's not much you can do. Cooling the beer down to almost freezing temperature and then pouring it out immediately after opening the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18249" LastActivityDate="2021-05-31T18:17:48.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25578" CreationDate="2021-06-03T11:34:35.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brewed a Chinook IPA kit (LME) from Northern Brewer that's been on my shelf for over 6 months. Granted, it's not an AG batch but the consensus is that &amp;quot;old ingredients&amp;quot; do not produce optimum results and I can attest to that since this batch did not turn out well. It tastes like a mix between a pale ale and a stout. SRM is way darker than usual too. Nothing like the previous Chinook kits I've brewed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always try your kit and see what happens but most likely the ingredients are just too old. Think of the difference fresh basil (if you've ever had it) makes in a pasta dish compared to something from the store that's been dried and sitting on a shelf. And then been in your cupboard since 2013.. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T11:34:35.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24837" CreationDate="2021-06-06T14:43:53.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard there are some honeys (carrot, goldenrod) that will give more caramel-like flavors - you could also try lightly boiling the honey to make your mead a bochet, which I'm told will create caramel flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site talks about honey varietals: &lt;a href=&quot;https://gotmead.com/blog/making-mead/honey-table/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://gotmead.com/blog/making-mead/honey-table/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This site talks about the process of making a bochet more: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrewsupply.com/learn/boiling-up-a-bochet.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://homebrewsupply.com/learn/boiling-up-a-bochet.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I can think of is just making your own caramel at home and adding it right in, whether in the primary (aka right at the start) or in the secondary (aka after most of the fermenting's done).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19312" LastActivityDate="2021-06-06T14:43:53.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-07T21:24:13.227" Score="2" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to homebrew and noticed that during the cooling process A LOT of water is used going through the counterflow chiller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm on a well, and I'd like to minimize water usage, especially during the summer. I also don't have a drain near where I chill, so I end up having to fill buckets and dump them (sure some can be used for cleaning, but it's A LOT of water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea is to use a pond pump to create a recirculate cold water. The thing I'm not sure about is how to keep the water cold. A few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a cooler full of ice. This requires enough ice for the job, and I have sort of limited freezing capacity. Would using frozen ice packs be better at keeping water cold, due to their lower freezing temp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Actively cooling the water. I have an old heatpump/ac unit that was recently replaced sitting in my garage. It's a panasonic unit, with an indoor unit and outdoor unit. (like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.saturnsales.co.uk/Panasonic-Wall-Mounted-Inverter-CS-FZ25WKE.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.saturnsales.co.uk/Panasonic-Wall-Mounted-Inverter-CS-FZ25WKE.html&lt;/a&gt; but from 2004). I've read in a few places that the outdoor unit can be repurposed for rapidly cooling water as it's pushed through the chiller. This way you don't really need to prepare/have ice on hand. Is this an option or is it crazy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what other options there could be, but I'm willing to try anything to reduce water usage/bucket hauling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19316" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T06:33:04.717" Title="Options for recirculating water chiller" Tags="|water|chilling|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25432" CreationDate="2021-06-08T13:18:30.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Florida man here. You want Kveik. It will happily produce clean beers at temps above 100F (~40C). I've pitched it into 110 degree wort and it thrives. Minimum temperature for it is around the mid 70Fs(~24C). Below 85F(~30C) or so, kveik tends to produce clean fermentations, and behaves like a generic ale yeast imo. In the high 80Fs(~27C) to 100Fs(38C), it produces non-offensive fruit character. Extremely tolerant of high gravity brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've currently got a german style dark beer (fermenting at 75F(24C) and a mead brewing (ambient temperature, 85F(30C) daytime, 70F(21C) night) with Kveik yeast. I've previously had success with several other beer styles. This yeast is great for high gravity NEIPA styles, especially if fermented at higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19317" LastEditorUserId="14909" LastEditDate="2021-06-11T21:45:23.990" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T21:45:23.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25587" CreationDate="2021-06-08T16:40:18.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people use the pond pump and ice water technique.  People normally use store bought ice by the bag.  Ice packs for beach cooler's tend to absorb heat slower than ice and probably don't work great in this set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be more efficient about ice usage, you can use tap water for knocking the temp down from 212F/100C but several tens of degress.  Collect that hot water for your cleaning.  Then switch to the ice/pump setup to take things the rest of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to get a smaller second chiller put that in an ice batch to prechill tap water on its way to the main chiller in the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The AC/compressor idea sounds good but it needs to be able to strip heat pretty quickly and I am note sure many AC's could do it the way you intend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to create a large reservoir of salted ice water put your chiller in there and pump wort through it.  The larger a heat sink you can create with ice and water the faster that chill will go.  You'll want to stir the ice around the chiller to maximize chill time.  This will use the least amount of water, but you also won't be collecting water for washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, you could go no chill.  Many people do it.  I've tried it several times and it does work, even with hoppy styles it seems to work great.  In short, you put the near boiling wort into a vessel that can be sealed tight and can withstand the high temps.  You simply let it chill to ambient on its own overnight or even 24-hrs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope one of those options gives you some ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T16:40:18.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-08T21:51:35.513" Score="3" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a two week old Ginger bug developed from organic store-bought ginger (not a SCOBY). I've kept it in a warm cabinet, not my fridge while it got established. I'm new to fermentation and brewing, this is the first thing I've ever tried to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since my bug was nice and bubbly I started a primary ferment yesterday, but it's the bug itself that smells like move theater popcorn. I've read that that could be diacetyl (sp?) but could also be lactobacter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that ginger bugs were lactobacter cultures? If that's the case, is the buttered popcorn smell normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put a heating mat on it and raised the temp to 80. Is there anything else I should do, or do I have this all wrong? Thanks for any help or suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19315" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2021-06-08T22:04:44.900" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T22:04:44.900" Title="Wild Ginger Bug Smells Like Buttered Popcorn. Keep or Toss?" Tags="|ginger-beer|aroma|diacetyl-rest|first-time|popcorn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25590" CreationDate="2021-06-08T22:04:09.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Butter is diacetyl.  Yeast can eat it, so fortunately it ages out.  Typically this will take 2-3 weeks in beer.  I'm not sure how long in a ginger bug but my guess is similar timeframe.  So just be patient, and give the culture time to eat it.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T22:04:09.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25587" CreationDate="2021-06-09T06:33:04.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;brewchez's last option is worth your while investigating. Living in dry dry Australia (well, much of it is), I have found it necessary to no-chill, and have done so for about 5 years with no failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try it. If you don't like the results, you can always look at the other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T06:33:04.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-10T16:05:27.433" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to utilize the potential of Mackinac hops is a hop-forward beer? Knowing that it is an aroma hop, is it best in late boil addition or whirlpool ? Or do it's qualities come out best in dry-hopping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18991" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T14:00:15.033" Title="Mackinac hop and usage" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25570" CreationDate="2021-06-11T21:45:06.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can add more yest to a brew at almost any point if you need to. I have added extra yeast(s) to brews up to 4 weeks after filling a FV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to be aware of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;usually you will want to make sure the yeast you are adding is in date; unless it is all you have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you will want to use a fresh unopened pack, unless you know it has been store in a snitary manner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you brew still smells and tatses OK, if the brew has gone bad due to biological contamination, adding more yeast will not help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, on day 3 adding extra yeast is absolutley fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T21:45:06.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-14T01:28:00.180" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 gallon apple&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;juice yeast: WLP648&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lemon juice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wine tannin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nutrients (not staggered)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG: 1.048&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitched yeast at 70f but I turned it up to 80f after a couple days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 2 weeks, the gravity is 1.003. I call this &amp;quot;done&amp;quot; fermenting but wondering how long to wait and what am I waiting for? The cider is currently pretty clean tasting, I don't think I sense any brettness. Will that develop if I let it sit in primary or secondary? I understand that brett can ferment pretty clean when used in primary and that adding it in secondary can get some more funk/earthiness (too late for that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just generally wondering if I should let this sit but also I'm trying to avoid letting it sit for X months just to find out it tastes the same. I'm looking for something funky and earthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18553" LastActivityDate="2021-06-14T01:28:00.180" Title="What are the stages of flavor development/aging for a brettanomyces apple cider?" Tags="|cider|brettanomyces|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-14T02:12:25.453" Score="2" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made some apple cider with WLP648 brettanomyces. I'd like to try this yeast in some other experiments. Can I reuse brett like any other yeast? Can I pitch the lees/dregs into a new batch or can I wash the yeast and keep it in a jar in the fridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18553" LastActivityDate="2022-12-01T17:04:00.530" Title="How to reuse/wash brettanomyces yeast" Tags="|yeast|reusing-yeast|brettanomyces|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-14T06:19:34.843" Score="0" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheers! I know there are a few good ones out there but I'm not sure if temperature is going to play a weighted part here. I'm from India and the temperature at the place i live in ranges between 25C and 32C. What would be the right recipe in terms of grain bill (for OG 1.050), hops and especially the yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19330" LastActivityDate="2021-06-14T06:19:34.843" Title="A good belgian wit recipe for Indian climate?" Tags="|beer|belgian|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7384" CreationDate="2021-06-15T18:46:53.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the northern brewer brewing sculpture that allows you to have everything gravity fed. it has 3 burners fed from the same propane tank. So far I use it as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on the top tier is my HLT which just a standard 10G kettle. I heat directly here my strike water and sparge water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on the middle tier I have a 15G chapman insulated mash tun. I dont use the burner on this one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on the bottom tier is a 15G kettle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the bottom tier is high enough to gravity feed my 5 gallon fermenters. I had to make a couple of modifications to the stock product to make all this work. First I moved the middle and bottom tiers down by a few inches so that the top tier could gravity feed by 15G mash tun. Second I put the whole thing on wheels so I can move it easily out of storage areas to outside where I brew, I am in a similar situation of just having a car port so I brew outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17990" LastActivityDate="2021-06-15T18:46:53.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-17T21:42:24.840" Score="0" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a brew last night and after pouring the wort into the fermenter i realised I'd forgotten to empty out the sanitizer i'd put in it.  It was about 300 ml of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/chemsan-no-rinse-foaming-sanitiser-1l/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chemsan&lt;/a&gt; (described as &amp;quot;A blend of phosphoric acid, benzenesulfonic acid and isopropanol.&amp;quot;) (that is, 300 ml of the diluted sanitizer, which, since it has a 2ml to 1 litre dilution ratio, about 0.6 ml of the undiluted sanitizer).  So, this ended up mixed in with about 30 litres of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That comes out, assuming that it doesn't settle to the bottom or evaporate out or something like that, about a teaspoon (5ml) per pint.  Chemsan is a &amp;quot;no rinse&amp;quot; sanitizer, which I assume means it's not super toxic, but I assumed that meant if there's a small residue left on a surface, rather than a whole teaspoon poured into a pint, so to speak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going ahead with the brew anyway, but this beer was intended for a friend's party (how typical that it would be the one i potentially poison!), and I was just trying to get a handle on the risk involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Apply diluted solution on surfaces with a cloth, mop ,brush, sponge, spray or by immersion.&#xA;&#xA;After 2 minutes contact time, drain solution thoroughly.&#xA;&#xA;For all applications, allow to air dry, however surfaces must remain wet for at least two minutes.&#xA;&#xA;Do not rinse after Chemsan application. &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;do not rinse&amp;quot; thing kind of suggests that it's not going to poison anyone, but like I say I think they were talking about a thin residue on a surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18204" LastActivityDate="2021-06-19T10:08:49.823" Title="Is a teaspoon of no-rinse sanitizer (diluted) per pint toxic?" Tags="|beer|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25601" CreationDate="2021-06-19T10:08:49.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sucks. I'd probably try contacting the Chemsan manufacturer (&lt;a href=&quot;https://chemisphereuk.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://chemisphereuk.com/&lt;/a&gt;) while things are fermenting. Or, just dump it and brew another batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2021-06-19T10:08:49.823" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-22T12:08:01.600" Score="0" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the last year, I've been making a lot of syrups. Usually I keep the syrups in the fridge and add carbonated water to it whenever I want to drink it. But now I'd like to make a bigger batch and bottle it in 200ml (~7oz) glass bottles, so I can hand them out to local bars to see if there's any interest my sodas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you guys advice concerning the carbonation? I see three options now, but they have several pros and cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I figured I could add a bit of syrup in every bottle and add carbonated water. &lt;strong&gt;PRO&lt;/strong&gt; straightforward and cheap &lt;strong&gt;CON&lt;/strong&gt; I guess I will loose a lot of carbonation while pouring the carbonated water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I mix the syrup and normal water and add champagne yeast to carbonate it. &lt;strong&gt;PRO&lt;/strong&gt; lots of carbonation in an easy and cheap way &lt;strong&gt;CON&lt;/strong&gt; not easy to control sweetness, alcohol levels and carbonation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I add the syrup and water to a soda keg and add CO2 to it with a CO2 bottle. &lt;strong&gt;PRO&lt;/strong&gt; lots of control over sweetness and carbonation. No alcohol at all. &lt;strong&gt;CON&lt;/strong&gt; I imagine I will loose a lot of carbonation while filling the bottles from the soda keg just like in option 1. Also, seems like a pretty big investment and doubt if it will get me the result I want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, are these the options I have or are there other ways? What would you advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&#xA;Ernest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19344" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T16:46:05.663" Title="How to carbonate and bottle non-alcoholic soda" Tags="|yeast|carbonation|force-carbonation|soda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25595" CreationDate="2021-06-22T13:13:31.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well it depends ... do you want the flavours and aromas that would come from late boil additions, whirlpool or Dry Hop. Each will contribute different flavour profiles to the finished beer and each will be prefered by different people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it is sold as an aroma hop but has an average of 11.5% AA so would also work well in bittering, and I would sugest would lend itself to making a single hop brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My standard approach using a new hop would be to try with just a late hop and see what I think and then dry hop some of that to see how it differs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want fully hop forward then I would advise doing all 3 to get a blend of the available flavour profiles from the hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experiment, see what works best for the recipe, your or your freind's tastes; and if you do some trial brews please report back what you find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T13:13:31.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25603" CreationDate="2021-06-22T13:31:53.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for commercial quality and long-term stable carbonation- use a keg with C02 and a counter pressure bottle filler. You can DIY one yourself, or pick one up for ~$75USD. This is effectively a small-scale version of how breweries bottle. If done properly, it will hold carbonation about as well as a bottle condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay away from champagne yeast. It will be really hard to make a consistent product since you'll always be guessing at the carb level. Also, you want to avoid this combo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Champagne yeast + glass bottle + sugar water + time = hand grenade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T13:31:53.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25611" CreationDate="2021-06-28T18:41:45.390" Score="2" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;For mashing, I have kettle and steel grain basket. Heat is provided via a gas stove. I heat the water to a few degrees above mash-in temperature and then ease in the grain basket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I measure temperature of my mash I find there is temperature variance between the bottom, middle and the top of the grain basket. It varies by a good five to six degrees between the top and bottom of the basket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if I have to measure the temperature of the mash while attempting to do a step mash, from where should I be measuring the temperature (bottom, middle, top) ?&#xA;Or do I stir the mash until it is consistent through out and only then consider measuring the temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16491" LastActivityDate="2021-06-30T15:32:24.337" Title="Measuring mash temperature" Tags="|mash|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25606" CreationDate="2021-06-28T21:50:43.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measure in 2 or 3 places, then take the average. Works well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T21:50:43.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-29T15:11:44.127" Score="0" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;My goal: I want to simulate beer (and perhaps other drinks in a future) fermentation processes in software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Ramirez &amp;amp; Gee fermentation models, there are three terms for sugars:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G for glucose. This is a monosaccharide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;M for maltose. This is a disaccharide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N for maltotriose. This is a trisaccharide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consumption rates (using ordinary differential equations which are not analytically integrable) use terms to reflect the consumption priority they call &amp;quot;inhibitor terms&amp;quot;, so the maltotriose gets the highest consumption rate (asymptotically, actually) when the other two sugars are already consumed (and even authors consider maltotriose non-fermentable or negligible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two questions here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does this model extends to more sugars? (e.g. sucrose) Are sugars with the same... size... (e.g. fructose and glucose are both monosaccharide) considered together under the term G instead of just glucose?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will I lose a lot of precision if I only consider mono and di saccharide instead? Or are there oligo/poly saccharide that are non-negligible on fermentation I should consider?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(additionally, perhaps as in comment and not part of an answer: Any book recommendation having quantitative details on different sugars for this R&amp;amp;G model would be useful to me)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19358" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T15:11:44.127" Title="&quot;Ramirez &amp; Gee&quot; model: I'd like a better understanding about G, M, and N terms" Tags="|brewing|sugar|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11493" CreationDate="2021-06-29T15:29:53.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Live: 795 million cells/ml&#xA;Dead: 220 million cells/ml&#xA;Total: 1015 million cells/ml&#xA;Viability: 78.32%&#xA;Dilution: 200&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cells needed: Volume: 1135 Litrs, Gravity: 12 and pitching rate: 1 million cells= Pitching rate 12*10^12 per ml.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Required slurry??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19359" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T15:29:53.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25606" CreationDate="2021-06-29T20:38:19.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a combination of averaging, stirring and recirculating.  My mashtun has a large open area under the false bottom.  I drain some hot wort off the bottom and add it to the top of the grain bed - - -&amp;gt; then stir- - - &amp;gt; then average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a drain valve, you could raise and lower the grain basket a bit to even out the temperature, then stir.  5-6 degrees F variation isn't too bad as long the average is near the middle of the 145F to 158F mashing range.  Keep brewing, you'll sort out your methods!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5-6 C is quite a lot. You could remove 1/3 of the hot water from the kettle, then add the grain, then add the remaining hot water to the top of the grain basket. then stir. I do that in my mashtun to make the mixing easier. Seems to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19352" LastEditorUserId="19352" LastEditDate="2021-06-30T15:32:24.337" LastActivityDate="2021-06-30T15:32:24.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24947" CreationDate="2021-06-29T20:59:03.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aeration/agitation will rouse sleepy yeast, like swirling to restart a stuck fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary infection seems unlikely at this point since the yeast already ate all the low hanging fruit.  If it is biological activity (making the CO2) the organisms were already there.  You'd have to add a TON of bugs to get an immediate airlock bubble response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agitation will bump CO2 out of solution (but that's a quick reaction, not sustained).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raising the temperature will drive CO2 out of solution until it reaches the new temperature equilibrium - did you place the carboy in a warmer location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely not Ruined; maybe a bit more oxidized, still wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19352" LastEditorUserId="3693" LastEditDate="2021-06-30T20:53:25.187" LastActivityDate="2021-06-30T20:53:25.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-30T06:12:31.903" Score="0" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had fermented mango wine weeks back. After a week I did my first racking to remove pulp. The Brix value is not moving down so assuming fermentation is over, I'm planning to bottle it. Initially, after a week, it was very sour then sourness got reduced and it was tasting bitter. Now it tastes flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I add sweetened, thinned homemade mango juice to give it a flavour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, can I add metabisulfite and sorbate together? I haven't used any of them yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can use them together how much should I use for approximately 3-3.5 litres of wine with back sweetening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I use them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19361" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T20:45:01.943" Title="Can I use sodium metabisulphite and potassium sorbate together before bottling?" Tags="|bottling|first-time-brewer|fruit-wine|potassium-meta-bisulfite|potassium-sorbate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10194" CreationDate="2021-07-05T18:38:02.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the weight of CO2 expelled pretty much exactly explains the change in weight and so in specific gravity. My 23 litre (30 bottle) wine bucket started with an SG of 1.074 so would have weighed 24.7kg (54.4 lbs). If it finishes at an SG of 1.000, it will then weigh 23kg so will have lost 1.7kg (3.7 lbs) of CO2.&#xA;Volume is slightly trickier. One Mol of gas occupies 24 litres. One Mol of CO2 is 44g, so my 1.7kg is 38 Mol or 927 L - about a cubic metre (or yard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19366" LastActivityDate="2021-07-05T18:38:02.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25616" CreationDate="2021-07-05T20:11:33.147" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was browsing forums looking for any new tips to prevent wine from becoming vinegar (My last batch was ruined and want to make sure that does not happen again) and I stumbled cross this mysterious comment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ABAXm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ABAXm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The user who posted it is no longer active, and the website will not let me post on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.winemakingtalk.com/threads/alcohol-content-to-prevent-vinegar.42411/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this chain&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Does anyone know what this mysterious KM is, and if it really completely removes the chance of making vinegar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks im advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19367" LastActivityDate="2021-07-06T14:19:47.683" Title="Anybody know what KM is?" Tags="|additives|vinegar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25615" CreationDate="2021-07-06T14:19:47.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the little bit of context I'm going to guess this is an odd/inaccurate shorthand for potassium metabisulfate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the real shorthand is &lt;code&gt;K₂S₂O₅&lt;/code&gt; they're likely using &lt;code&gt;k&lt;/code&gt; to represent potassium and &lt;code&gt;m&lt;/code&gt; for the metabisulfate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-07-06T14:19:47.683" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25618" CreationDate="2021-07-09T14:04:48.760" Score="0" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this 15 Gallon stainless steel carboy, and cleaning it is always an adventure before I start my next fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As luck would have it, removing the to rack means my carboy fits EXACTLY in my dishwasher. Can I just run the dishwasher with the heat sanitize cycle and some starsan pbw in the soap tray (To clean before sanitizing)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: After one of my responses (Be Careful with chlorine) I have a whole house filter, so I should not actually have any chlorine in the water for any of my pipes(Brine Filter, not reverse osmosis, so there are still nutrients no worries)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19367" LastEditorUserId="19367" LastEditDate="2021-07-09T14:51:34.073" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T14:51:34.073" Title="Carboys and dishwashers" Tags="|sanitation|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25617" CreationDate="2021-07-09T14:48:13.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can do this, but be careful with chlorine residues and products that are used.&#xA;However, it is always recommended to make the traditional cip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15152" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T14:48:13.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-09T14:49:50.227" Score="0" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I make my wines at home, I usually make it in roughly 13 gallon batches. However, after racking I usually lose about half a gallon to a gallon, so I have a fair amount of headspace in my container when it is time to age and clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far the longest I have bulk aged my wine was up to a year with no real issues. However I was recently given a much larger food safe plastic container to bulk age in. Since it does not have an airtight seal like my carboy, I am concerned about oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nNb4m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nNb4m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware that CO2 is heavier than the air around us, so my question is a 2-parter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- If I add an inert gas like co2 to the container before racking and add the lid (Not really airtight) would this be enough of a seal to keep oxygen away from my aging wine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - If this would work, how would I go about adding this inert gas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19367" LastActivityDate="2021-07-11T12:04:49.063" Title="Adding inert gas when bulk aging" Tags="|aging|oxidation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25613" CreationDate="2021-07-09T14:51:41.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can add them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use 1/4 teaspoon per five gallons to add 50 ppm.&#xA;Can throw juice, metabisulfite, sorbate and bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15152" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T14:51:41.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25598" CreationDate="2021-07-09T14:54:33.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can reuse yeast.&#xA;I use both homebrew and commercially and everything is ok.&#xA;Can carry out normal treatment. Always remembering to sanitize the equipment used, thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15152" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T14:54:33.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25622" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25625" CreationDate="2021-07-10T19:39:51.733" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I want to exceed the scale of my saccharometer scale, which goes up to 25 °P (1.106 SG). Now, I am a programmer and exceeding is my thing. So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, gravity is linear in nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just take a sample of volume &lt;code&gt;V&lt;/code&gt;, dilute to &lt;code&gt;2*V&lt;/code&gt; with drinking water, put my saccharometer in, read a gravity &lt;code&gt;G&lt;/code&gt; and my correct gravity reading will be &lt;code&gt;G/2&lt;/code&gt; (of course other factors should be possible, but &lt;code&gt;2&lt;/code&gt; is very comfortable)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;0&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;brew&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take wort sample of 250 ml&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add 250 ml drinking water to sample&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;measure 15 °P, measure 20 °C (or correct OG according to temperature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;actual OG is 30 °P&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or are there any drawbacks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18395" LastActivityDate="2021-07-11T12:01:38.157" Title="Original Gravity too high for Saccharometer Scale" Tags="|original-gravity|high-gravity|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-11T10:08:00.890" Score="2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am brewing a Hoegardden clone. I cold crashed for a couple of days and now on the bottling day I am down with fever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, can I keep it at 2°C for few more days until I get well? Should I increase the temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16491" LastActivityDate="2021-07-15T17:33:02.173" Title="How long should I maintain cold crash temperature for Witbier?" Tags="|cold-crash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25623" CreationDate="2021-07-11T11:05:54.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To really answer your question, a couple of days more or less will not make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, you shouldn't cold crash witbier. It is also bottled with its yeast. At serving time, you then make a choice about pouring it clean, or swirling the bottom and adding it to your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2021-07-12T17:16:57.300" LastActivityDate="2021-07-12T17:16:57.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25622" CreationDate="2021-07-11T12:01:38.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only drawback would be the larger sample size required and that you need very accurate (i.e lab grade) mass and volumetric measurement. Your proposed method is sound, though. A hydrometer indicating 1.106SG means that your measured liquid has 1.106 times the density (i.e. mass per volume) of water. So weighing identical volumes of wort and water and comparing their mass (which has a 1:1 relationship to weight given that the Earth's gravity coefficient may be considered a constant here) will give you an accurate gravity reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just keep in mind that most conversions between OG, Brix and Plato assume a middle-of-the-road gravity and may adjustments for very low or very high gravities (the latter being what you're dealing with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, such an insane high OG won't necessarily give you a better beer. That's exactly the reason why hydrometers generally don't go that high. However, there are density meters that do, although they may not be intended for beer production. Mostimeters, for example, such as are used in wine production, max out at a lot more, but you'll probably need a conversion table to convert the mostimeter reading into OG. The Brix refractometer used in syrup production also go a lot higher. A typical syrup weighs in at around 70 degrees Brix which is equivalent to a specific gravity of 1.355.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the fact that you an raise your OG doesn't mean that you should, though. :-) The challenges of brewing a 15+% ABV beer are huge, from yeast stress, higher alcohol production and esters going through the roof, to the alcohol/body balance (read: you need a high final OG to balance out all that alcohol or it will be as rough as a bear's hind quarters). It can be done, and there are a few &amp;quot;Tyrannosaur&amp;quot; beers out there with 25% ABV or more (although one might wonder if these are technically still classifiable as beers) but be aware of the difficulties, and the chance of ending up with a beer that will kill a cow at a hundred paces. If this sort of brewing is your thing, go right ahead, of course! Just realize that it's not just a matter of simply pushing up your ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-07-11T12:01:38.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25619" CreationDate="2021-07-11T12:04:49.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inert gas (provided it's heavier than air and is not water-soluble) will protect the contents of the vessel from the top, i.e. it will blanket the surface. It will not prevent oxygen ingress through the vessel walls, though. Therefore such aging should ideally take place in glass or stainless steel and not in polypropylene or polyethylene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding the inert gas would best be done by having two valves set into the lid of the vessel; one to allow the gas to enter under slight pressure, the other to allow the oxygen to escape (i.e. being flushed out). Then close both valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that CO2 will over time dissolve partly into the liquid, thereby making it slightly fizzy and reducing the amount of CO2 gas covering the liquid. But in a closed vessel it won't matter if the protective gas is heavier than air or not, once you flush out all the air. Nitrogen could be a good option here. It is often used as an inert filler gas in hermetically closed packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-07-11T12:04:49.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-12T11:23:10.867" Score="1" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I am using EC-1118 yeast for making my wines.&#xA;In the past I have also used DADY Red Star and it worked, but took forever to clear up and become even remotely drinkable. Plus my last 2 batches of mead with this yeast ended up with a sour taste as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a wine yeast out there that is NOT a Turbo yeast commercially available that can go beyond 20% ABV?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19367" LastEditorUserId="19367" LastEditDate="2021-07-12T11:39:15.397" LastActivityDate="2021-07-12T14:57:12.690" Title="Non Turbo, High Proof Yeast" Tags="|yeast|wine|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25627" CreationDate="2021-07-12T14:57:12.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any yeast that will pass 20% by any large margin in a pitch-and-forget type of way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you start pushing 16+% and you're not using a distillers yeast- you're looking for multi-stage sugar and nutrient additions and it's going to be pretty hands on. Even so- I don't think you're going to get much past 23%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just pitching champagne yeast, walking away and hitting anywhere near 20% I think you're doing pretty good already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you learned- avoid distillers yeast for something you aren't going to distill. They aren't designed to make a good tasting product- they're designed to ferment quickly. To that point- I wouldn't even use those yeasts for anything running through a still because they're so phenolic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-07-12T14:57:12.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25623" CreationDate="2021-07-15T17:33:02.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can keep the temperature for several days, no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem that can cause you is to clarify too much and lose the turbidity that witbier needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glad to be able to help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15152" LastActivityDate="2021-07-15T17:33:02.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10136" CreationDate="2021-07-16T20:12:59.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used honey in wild carbonation and aim for honey aromas, of course the beer was a clean base.&#xA;I used 1g of honey like 1g of sugar and it worked perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, depending on the base of the beer, it won't bring anything remarkable, but I've already gotten nice results with honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15152" LastActivityDate="2021-07-16T20:12:59.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25633" CreationDate="2021-07-17T14:17:10.397" Score="0" ViewCount="668" Body="&lt;p&gt;At Walmart they sell wine in 3 liter jugs (Just shy of 1 gallon) For roughly $10 a piece, but 1 gallon jugs at roughly $15 a piece. Sadly, the mouth of these 3 liter bottles is exactly too small to fit your average bung designed for gallon jugs, making them only good for aging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any common store in the southwestern US that sells something like wine, apple juice, etc in a full gallon glass jug for cheaper than the glass bottles? I'm looking for stores like Aldi or Publix, that are pretty common in these parts of the US vs a small store that will likely not be in my area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19367" LastEditorUserId="19367" LastEditDate="2021-07-22T09:34:46.013" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T11:50:46.097" Title="What comes in 1 gallon jugs?" Tags="|buying|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25631" CreationDate="2021-07-19T10:15:12.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whole Foods has apple juice in a gallon jug. A #6 stopper will fit them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B074VG4CMW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/365-Everyday-Value-Organic-Concentrate/dp/B074VG4CMW/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastEditorUserId="18216" LastEditDate="2021-07-19T10:48:28.543" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T10:48:28.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-20T10:57:36.063" Score="1" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;Campden was really hard to find in the country I am currently in. Thus a friend arranged it from a lab supplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it shows 10ppm max lead on the label, would it be toxic to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also could you suggest me an alternative to Campden to prevent bacteria? My wines and kimchi get flowering every second day of fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would be very grateful for your guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8H1j5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8H1j5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBNaJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBNaJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0blpS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0blpS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Razeluxe" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T10:07:26.220" Title="Is this Campden safe to use?" Tags="|wine|alcohol|fermentation|mead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25634" CreationDate="2021-07-22T10:07:26.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be safe to use and non-toxic. The maximum lead content is a maximum, and the one specified here is within safe limits. Breathing the air downwind from a coal-fired power station typically exposes you to more lead than this stuff, when used in the regular amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One Campden tablet typically contains 0.44 g each of sodium metabisulphite (plus filler/binder, typically lactose). Potassium metabisulfite is slightly stronger than sodium metabisulfite by volume (17% stronger) but this is not enough to be taken into account if you are only making 5 or 10 gallons at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T10:07:26.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25631" CreationDate="2021-07-22T11:50:46.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 1-gallon pickle jars, I have 2 of those and use them all the time, big wide-mouth metal lid that you can drill a hole through for a bung if desired, and easy to get a hand in to clean and sanitize.  I got mine from a friend, but I'm sure you can find big pickle jars at a discount store (such as Sam's Club or Costco or the like).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T11:50:46.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25450" CreationDate="2021-07-23T23:55:38.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK so the issue seems two-fold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dimple can be reduced with a plunger that has an increased surface area slightly.  I see this on some models where it bulges out a bit on the bottom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is the big one: the quality and appropriateness of the corks you choose matters.  So fresher corks (not dry, crusty, agglomerated ones) can compress more easily and spring back from the deformation.  And it seems, at least for my case, that #8 corks fit much less tight than #9 corks.  So get the good, fresh corks (e.g. twin-disc or full cork) ones from your local hobby shop, not Amazon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T23:55:38.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25639" CreationDate="2021-07-29T07:45:39.200" Score="1" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started brewing for my first time and have one of these all in one starter kits &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.balliihoo.co.uk/balliihoo-basic-homebrew-starter-equipment-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see here&lt;/a&gt; (lager)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions were not terribly clear or I misread (more likely) and didn't realise I needed to add the bubbler airlock to the top of my tub after I mixed everything together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm into day 4 of fermenting now and have just added the airlock with water in. I have read you don't necessarily need an airlock but most people use them as an insurance, and I'm hoping I'm not too late in the stage to add it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have noticed a small layer of foamy throth forming on the top of the brew in my container, is this normal? The instructions with the kit mentioned small bubbles will cease to rise after 4-6 days but I can't tell if its actually bubbling or not because of this foam layer, or do they mean bubbles ceasing to rise in the airlock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm just really needing advice, on what I should do next please. I don't want to bother kegging if I have screwed this up and should just start over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have my setup in my garage right now, and temperature is reading at 18 °C so probably a little on the cool side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19424" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2021-08-03T21:28:26.180" LastActivityDate="2021-08-03T21:28:26.180" Title="Foam and airlock" Tags="|airlock|foam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25638" CreationDate="2021-07-29T13:03:43.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Airlock: indeed, you do not need it for the fermenting process, it is added as a way to insulate your brew from the surrounding air, to make sure that no contamination happens, and to remove the CO2 once your fermentation is under way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contamination:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moulds, spores and bacteria could enter your beer. I suppose you did add the lid, so that only the bunghole was open?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My personal experience is that, unless you keep your fermentation really open the whole time, the chance of contamination is low.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fermentation: the yeast turns the sugars into alcohol and CO2, much CO2. So once this is going it will blow everything out and the chance of contamination gets much lower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Foam and froth: the same mechanism that makes a head on beer also works when the fermentation is going on. The yeast blows little bubbles, and additionally also secretes other compositions, which make that a fermentation always has (sometimes much, sometimes less) foam on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that is very confusing for starting home brewers is always: when is it finished? The short answer is: you should measure it. However, that is easier said than done, because you need to take a sample for that, so that you can measure the gravity with your hydrometer, and you should take that sample as quick as possible to avoid contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easier option is to let it ferment out for two to three weeks before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature: I couldn't find out from the supplier if the supplied yeast is a lager yeast or another one, for this kit. If it is really a lager yeast (what is called bottom fermenting), then 18° C could be on the warm side. If it is a top fermenting yeast, then 18° is a nice temperature, especially in the beginning of the fermentation. In that case, move it now to a warmer place so that the yeast has a bit more support to ferment out the brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when the yeast starts fermenting, the process also increases the temperature, so while your garage could be 18°, the inside of the fermenter could be 20° to 22°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-07-29T13:03:43.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25641" CreationDate="2021-07-29T17:20:25.713" Score="1" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to brewing. I'm trying to understand &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;where&lt;/em&gt; it makes sense to intentionally add sugar. Based on what I've read/researched so far, I can think of three places where it makes sense:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As part of the grain bill, there will be grains and perhaps other ingredients that contain sugar in them. Some of these sugars will be fermentable, and some of them will not be. The ones that are fermentable will (hopefully) go on to be consumed in the production of alcohol. The ones that are not fermentable will be left behind and will contribute to the taste &amp;amp; sweetness of the finished product. So these are present prior to mashing in the grain bill itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After fermentation, &lt;strong&gt;unfermentable&lt;/strong&gt; sugar can be added simply for the purpose of affecting taste/sweetness of the finished product.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After fermentation, &lt;strong&gt;fermentable&lt;/strong&gt; sugar can also be added to help prime the beer and carbonate it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my understanding above correct, or is it misled in any way? Are there any other conditions or stages when I would want to add fermentable/unfermentable sugar, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastActivityDate="2021-07-29T17:36:30.273" Title="During what stages to add fermentable vs unfermentable sugars?" Tags="|fermentation|sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25640" CreationDate="2021-07-29T17:36:30.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Point 1 needs some more elaboration actually. In the mash, part of starches are indeed turned into fermentable sugars, and unfermentable sugars. But you would not add sugar adjuncts directly to the mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra sugars (sucrose (castor sugar) or glucose/dextrose, cane sugar, sugar syrups), would be added either during the boil, or when racking to a secondary fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason to do this is to lighten the body of the beer or to increase the ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When done during the boil, the OG of the wort increases, and more yeast should be pitched. When done after primary fermentation, it is possible to start with less yeast, the yeast will grow, and then there should be enough to consume the added sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Points 2 and 3 are correct. Point 2 is exemplified by lactose stout. In point 3, this would mostly be done when bottling. It is possible in kegs, but you can see on most homebrew forums that people who use kegs also use CO2 cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One further note: adding sugar to your homebrew does not result in cider taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-07-29T17:36:30.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-30T13:36:11.993" Score="1" ViewCount="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Etosha is a hardwood from Namibia, it is an invader species there and is hence used widely as barbeque charcoal throughout Southern Africa. Its smoke has an amazing scent and aroma to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw this recipe video for Whiskey and was wondering if you could substitute the oak with another charcoal that is fit for cooking food. I don't know if there is something that may make a charcoal fit for cooking food, but unfit to mellow whiskey with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can imbue whiskey with the taste of the Etosha wood's smoke then it would probably be tremendous!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4gjqQ-e-XQ&amp;amp;ab_channel=cuoredicioccolato&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2021-07-30T14:40:07.993" Title="Could you use Etosha charcoal in Whiskey making?" Tags="|aging|whiskey|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25642" CreationDate="2021-07-30T14:40:07.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't use charcoal for this. There are actually two different steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first step, you could use charcoal to smoke your malt, make a mash from this malt, ferment it and then distil it. And after distillation you would age the whiskey in barrels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this video shows is actually to replace the ageing in barrels, with ageing already made whiskey over dried and charred oak (or other wood chips).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you can get Etosha wood in chips which are NOT charcoal, you can try this, replacing the oak with Etosha, and using your favorite/cheap whiskey to test this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-07-30T14:40:07.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25648" CreationDate="2021-08-03T20:13:41.230" Score="0" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have spent a few weeks going down the banana-wine rabbit hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the things that I know&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Older (brown) bananas have more sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not all sugar is fermentable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Banana skins can help break down more starches into sugars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boiling the skins break's the banana skins' ability to break down starches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone who knows the science of this stuff, I have a few questions, if I want to make a decent banana/chocolate wine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How brown is too brown?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does freezing have the same effect as boiling (no extra sugars)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I get an accurate OG if I am not boiling the bananas to extract sugars?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will all of the banana sugars be fermentable in a brown banana?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you all &amp;quot;sanitize&amp;quot; the fruits you use to make wine if you don't boil them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance all! I know this question has a lot of sub-questions, but I feel like they all are pretty closely knit together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19367" LastActivityDate="2021-08-05T18:17:49.817" Title="Bananas, Brewing, and Fermentable Sugars" Tags="|wine|original-gravity|banana|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25646" CreationDate="2021-08-04T00:13:02.767" Score="3" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our marshmallow porter seems to have some type or mold or sediment floating atop the beer after 17 days fermenting in a wide-mouth plastic carboy. They look like flakes. Not fuzzy or spider-web like. Beer tastes and smells similar to usual, Preconditioning, but we’ve never had floaters like this before. Should we toss it or is it fine to bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A2XYw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19438" LastEditorUserId="19438" LastEditDate="2021-08-04T00:21:30.333" LastActivityDate="2021-11-05T21:32:59.517" Title="Possible contamination or mold?" Tags="|contamination|mold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25645" CreationDate="2021-08-04T14:21:23.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless whatever you're bottling is genuinely, horrifyingly undrinkable- I'd never pour anything out before bottling. At any rate- it won't hurt you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really difficult to tell on a picture through a carboy- but it's probably normal coagulation of some oils and starches in your beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rough picture may have some folks tell you it's a lacto infection- but based on the patterns and color I'd say that likely isn't the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-08-04T14:21:23.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15337" CreationDate="2021-08-04T19:27:44.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just found an even better solution than a locking trash can. Sometimes mice can even squeeze through the tiny openings or chew through the edges of a locking trash can. My husband and I recently started using large pet food containers designed for horse food. It's made from a very thick plastic that even rodents cannot chew through. The lid screws tight for an air tight seal and the plastic is food grade/non BPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gamma2 Vittles Vault Stackable Pet Food Storage&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://img.chewy.com/is/catalog/73482_PT3._AC_SL400_V1445890034_.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://img.chewy.com/is/catalog/73482_PT3._AC_SL400_V1445890034_.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gamma2 Vittles Vault Stackable Pet Food Storage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chewy.com/gamma2-vittles-vault-stackable-pet/dp/101389&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.chewy.com/gamma2-vittles-vault-stackable-pet/dp/101389&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastEditorUserId="8127" LastEditDate="2021-08-04T19:35:05.567" LastActivityDate="2021-08-04T19:35:05.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25644" CreationDate="2021-08-05T18:17:49.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The browning is actually enzymatic browning because of the breakdown of the banana cells. There is no such thing as too brown, but out of experience I know that brown and soft bananas could get mouldy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanism which turns the banana starches into sugars is actually the same as that in brewing beer. Amylases (amylase enzymes), in this case alpha-amylase and a bit of beta-amylase, turn the starches into different kinds of sugars. Alpha-amylases turn starches into unfermentable and fermentable sugars, with more unfermentable. The beta-amylase turns unfermentable and complex fermentable sugars into simple fermentable sugars. Boiling denatures (deactivates) these enzymes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freezing will not denature the enzymes. Experience from keeping bananas in the fridge has shown me that they get brown even faster. But that could be because the ethylene the bananas create, through which they ripen, gets trapped in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not boil the bananas to extract sugars, although you could get the same results as with brewing. At a temperature of 70°-72° C, the alpha-amylases are very active and will turn the starches faster into sugars. However, the enzymes will have lower (or no) mobility in a banana than in a mash. This means that they will reach less starches to convert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the sugars in the banana are formed by alpha-amylase activity, you will have much unfermentable sugars. However, alpha-amylases also turn complex, unfermentable sugars into simple fermentable sugars, but at a much lower rate than beta-amylases (which are much less present in a banana).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to control the ripening of your bananas by measuring OG, I suggest that you take a sample of 10g banana and add 90g water, mix well and then measure the gravity (with a hydrometer or a refractometer). This will only show the total amount of sugars, it will say nothing about the ratio of fermentable sugards versus unfermentable sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanitation of fruits for making wine is done with sodium- or potassium-metabisulfite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-08-05T18:17:49.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-11T02:51:41.153" Score="0" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a simple (only on gauge, from 0 to 60 psi) regulator that came with my kegerator. It worked fine for 5 years, but recently it's getting stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to open the adjustment dial a lot to get the needle to move. When I do so, the needle is not responsive at all, it takes minutes to react.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I had opened it very wide, it showed 30 psi. I turned it all the way back, but the needle stayed at 28 psi. Even when I disconnected the co2 tank, the needle stayed at ~25 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GSyIP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GSyIP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somewhere online I read that some people manage to freeze their lines, but I don't think that's the case here. My kegerator is set to 5 degrees Celsius, and when I left the regulator out for a few hours on a piece of paper, no water spots (from thawing ice) appeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hooked up a different regulator, and that one's needle reacts instantly to me changing the dial, both when I increase and decrease pressure. That second regulator also has a 2nd gauge showing the pressure left in the keg, and that needle was at around 600 or 700 psi, so I don't think it's a problem with the co2 tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix the first regulator? Is this a matter or oiling it? (Is WD40 food save?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2021-08-14T10:01:25.027" Title="How to fix a regulator that doesn't react to pressure changes?" Tags="|kegerator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25613" CreationDate="2021-08-11T20:45:01.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only can you, but you should! Especially if you sweeten it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It effectively can kill all the life in a wine, which improves stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you want effervescence, or a small secondary fermentation such as in some ciders/apple wines (malo-lactic &amp;quot;fermentation&amp;quot;, actually with bacteria not yeasts!), complete sterilization can be undesirable. But it sounds like not so in your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to backsweeten with something fermentable (mango juice) it's imperative you use meta &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; sorbate, in the appropriate doses. Otherwise, you'll make a huge mess, and it could be dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to sweeten with xylitol - which has no aftertaste and is not fermentable (unlike most other sugars). It works a treat if you like a fruit wine just off-dry, but gets less good (and more expensive) the sweeter you want to go in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19460" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T20:45:01.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-12T05:41:19.003" Score="0" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a NEIPA in a Kegland Fermzilla under 10psi of pressure, and I planned to have 2 dry hops without depressurizing or opening the fermentor. I have a tilt hydrometer in the fermentor and things have been going well so far - dropped from 1.06 to 1.026 in 4 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first dry hops I prepared in a bag containing a magnet so that I can pull away the magnet from the outside and drop the bag into the beer. You can see this technique here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/lvPBEwoTDPM?t=485&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/lvPBEwoTDPM?t=485&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, I didn't weight the bag enough and when the bag dropped it pretty much floated on the top. Now the other thing that's floating on the top is my tilt hydrometer. Today I noticed that the hydrometer reading spiked back up to 1.048 and that the tilt is sitting alongside the hop back, so it's clearly stuck to the magnet. I'm worried the tilt ($160!) will get damaged by the magnet. It's still transmitting for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the dilemma is... should I depressurize the fermentor, reach in, and separate the tilt from the hop bag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would give me peace of mind about the tilt and allow me to get a more accurate sense of when fermentation is done, but it would also risk oxidizing the beer... Given that fermentation is still active, maybe if I do it gently and quickly re-seal and re-pressurize it'll be ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8501" LastActivityDate="2024-03-07T08:01:25.163" Title="Brewing a NEIPA under pressure: magnet in dry hop bag is stuck to the tilt hydrometer. Should I open &amp; remove?" Tags="|dry-hop|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-13T03:58:37.747" Score="2" ViewCount="1054" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made some homemade ginger beer using a ginger bug and bottled in a glass flip top bottle. I brought a bottle to a friend we drank half and it has now been in the fridge sealed for a month and a half. I know that refrigeration slows down but doesn’t stop fermentation. Do i need to be concerned about it exploding if/when i try to open it now? Are there safe ways to slowly release the gas? I’ve made this recipe a bunch of times and never had a problem, just feeling unsure about the length of time sealed in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19463" LastActivityDate="2022-02-04T17:06:45.640" Title="Exploding ginger beer?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|ginger-beer|safety|bottle-bomb|refrigeration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25652" CreationDate="2021-08-13T05:00:02.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two ways a bottle can explode, fast and slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast happens when there is still too much sugar in the solution and carbonation is still going on. This will mostly happen fast, surely within a week or two. The pressure must become really big for that, though. This would be an amount of sugar greater than 9g/l (to be sure, some bottles can withstand more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slow happens when the pressure is correct, but the bottle might contain a mechanical failure. I had this with a saison beer. One bottle was neatly separated from its bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: I don't think you have anything to fear. Opening the bottle will not make it explode, on the contrary. Opening the bottle will always immediately release the pressure. And if you want to make sure, wrap your bottle in a towel when handling it for opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: since you confirmed that the bottles are beer flip-top bottles, you can be sure that they can withstand a whole lot of pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2021-08-14T19:42:20.820" LastActivityDate="2021-08-14T19:42:20.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-13T18:16:04.093" Score="0" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m making a lager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to propagate the yeast in two stages to reach the target cell count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I decant the spent wort from the first stage before i add the freshly boiled (and cooled) DME solution for the second stage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will not decanting result in off in final beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will however, decant after the 2nd stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16192" LastActivityDate="2024-01-18T20:03:55.463" Title="Do I need to decant my 1st stage yeast starter, prior to adding 2nd stage wort solution?" Tags="|yeast-starters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25649" CreationDate="2021-08-14T10:01:25.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, replacing the guage as @rob mentions is really the only way to go. Not sure I'd oil anything though (note the red lettering).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been told by the guy that fills my CO2 tanks that sometimes beer can get sucked back into the CO2 tank if you don't have a reverse flow check valve on the line. When the tank gets near empty, it'll sputter the accumulated beer into CO2 lines and make things sticky. If that's your case, you may want to investigate how to go about cleaning out the regulator/tank before re-assembling with a new guage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tightened the lock nut on my regulator knob up against the body and then put it in a bench vise (not tight, just snug!) with one jaw against the back, and another against the front of the knob. Then, cut a right-sized block of wood to put between the jaw and the supply line, right next to the regulator body, to help keep things from turning in the vise. It was tricky but worked without damaging anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2021-08-14T10:01:25.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15497" CreationDate="2021-08-20T08:19:10.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hop rhizomes are, to the best of my knowledge, not available from any regular supplier in South Africa. However, some home brewers occasionally have a few (not sure where from) and might be willing to share. Asking the Wort Hog Brewers and similar home brewing clubs (they've pretty much all got Facebook pages) is probably your best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have already pointed out, importing and exporting hop rhizomes is difficult due to international regulations on moving plants across borders. The South African customs service is especially difficult (not to say stupid) in this regard; I've imported plastic bottle draining trees that were held at customs for agricultural inspection. I'm serious - that's what they did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T08:19:10.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25660" CreationDate="2021-08-21T23:12:47.707" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;As title really - I just noticed a few different recipes, different sites and authors, that specify AAU for bittering and finishing hops, but dry hops just by mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it because the amount is typically so much less that the variation in alpha-acid% for a given variety isn't going to make much difference? Or perhaps alpha acids just don't come into play without boiling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17560" LastEditorUserId="17560" LastEditDate="2021-08-21T23:31:39.133" LastActivityDate="2021-08-31T16:46:39.360" Title="Why are AAU not specified for dry hopping?" Tags="|hops|dry-hop|alpha-acids|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25659" CreationDate="2021-08-23T15:54:14.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry-hopping does not impart bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bitterness in the beer originates in the isomerization of hop alpha acids in the heat of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since dry hopping is done cold, no AAU units of bitterness are generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-08-23T15:54:14.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-26T11:29:02.407" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 19L corny keg full of NEIPA that I wanted to force carb and get drinking quickly. After cooling the keg to 6 degrees I gave it an initial blast of CO2 to 30 psi. As I was shaking the keg, I knocked over the tank and broke my only regulator. It's not easy to buy one where I live so I ordered a new regulator online, but it will take about a week to arrive. So now I have a keg in my fridge with about 0.5L of headspace that's pressurized to 30psi; it's been like this for a couple of days, so I'd guess the beer is probably carbed to only around 3psi /1.5vol at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to open it and risk introducing oxygen, so I can't prime it naturally, and my regulator would likely arrive before it's fully carbed anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue to shake the keg frequently (how frequently?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try (with difficulty) to think about something else until my new regulator arrives&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other (what?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8501" LastActivityDate="2021-09-22T15:33:39.473" Title="Any way to carbonate a keg without opening it and without a regulator?" Tags="|carbonation|corny-keg|force-carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25661" CreationDate="2021-08-26T15:06:46.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can say likely the &amp;quot;best&amp;quot; option is to just wait for a new regulator to arrive (got a local brew club you can borrow one from?) and carbonate the beer the right way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, assuming you HAVE to have this beer NOW&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CO2 you have in there presently isn't going to cut it- even if you shake it. At best, you'll have pretty flat shaken up beer (which you've noted).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can safely blip in minor bits of CO2 to the keg (even though the regulator is broken) to &amp;quot;top-off&amp;quot; the CO2 and shake (rinse, repeat)- it will work. It will require drinking a lot of foamy beer while you try to dial it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally- I avoid the shake method for beers, even if you've racked carefully into the keg the shake method makes all the beers too sandy with sediment. You might not care about the sediment, and the NEIPA style will cover up some of it, but not by much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-08-26T15:06:46.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21757" CreationDate="2021-08-31T13:06:17.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I know this is an old question, but just in case: The CO2 of the fermentation &amp;quot;pushes&amp;quot; the oxigen outside of the demijohn, or wherever you are fermenting. CO2 is more dense than air, so it covers the drink, and while it ferments then it pushes the o2 outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is when you extract the wine outside of the demijohn to bottles. Then is when you have to use something to syphon, or carefully fill as much as possible or something like that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19519" LastActivityDate="2021-08-31T13:06:17.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25659" CreationDate="2021-08-31T16:46:39.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its the overall oil content in hops that you're interested when dry hopping.  Alpha-acids don't always reflect those amounts and the diversity.  The data is available to some extent but you need to know the lot and manufacturer of the hops you have and track it back.  Most homebrew shops don't track/offer that info with repackaged hops in-house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2021-08-31T16:46:39.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25654" CreationDate="2021-08-31T16:49:21.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a large enough vessel I guess you can omit decanting the first starter.  But you should decant at least in the end because that wort will have some level of oxidation off flavor in it and you don't want to add that to your beer.  Or at least limit it to some extent by partially decanting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastActivityDate="2021-08-31T16:49:21.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-31T22:20:33.477" Score="1" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much of an impact do yeasts strains have on their [beer] products? Is this a significant game changer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to craft delicious fermented foods. Beer, bread and pizza are a few of my motives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have various (German) beers I absolutely love that I would like to propagate a culture of yeast from to make these foods and beverages. With the impression that these tasty beer's yeast cultures could be a factor that would reflect in the tastiness of these products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concerns are how much of a difference propagating such yeast strains are VS. other factors of the product's various ingredients. Mainly, Will I notice a big difference in the individual yeast cultures alone, aside from the other ingredient factors? Or does it not matter as much as the other ingredients?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19525" LastActivityDate="2021-09-03T13:47:24.500" Title="Propagating a Beer yeast culture towards other applications" Tags="|yeast|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25673" CreationDate="2021-09-01T16:31:38.047" Score="1" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a batch of ice cider, from apples from my own trees (not shop-bought juice).  No preservatives.  The constituent apples are early this year, and most of this batch is windfalls; 55% green and 45% red.  These have been frozen in a chest freezer, and then shredded and pressed.  The batch is ~21 litres, primary in a plastic bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The freshly pressed juice tastes great, not too sour at all (back to this later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added campden tablets at pressing, in the recommended quantity, to mitigate browning of the juice and kill natural yeast.  I waited 48 hours after the campden before proceeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added pectolase and DaP nutrient in the recommended amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rehydrated and pitched the yeast, Lalvin D47, as per instructions.  The yeast looked happy prior to pitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, the Brix reading was 10.2 (1.04 SG).  However, 36 hours later, there was no sign of fermentation - no airlock bubbles, which I know can be normal in a large bucket, but also no drop in SG reading or any visual sign of activity.  I assumed that it could have been because my yeast had been stored out of the fridge for a long while, so I made up a new batch of yeast, pitched it, etc.  Now another 24 hours has passed, and again no sign of activity of any sort, and again the SG is unchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature should be okay, around 18C to 20C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the pH with an inexpensive Chinese digital meter, and to my surprise, it read 1.86 - incredibly low.  Although Lalvin don't give acidity specs, I understand that yeast generally are only viable from 2.0 up.  It is possible that this cheap meter is reading inaccurately, so I'm waiting for more precise litmus strips to arrive, and also some calibration solutions so I can attempt to recalibrate it - so I can't confirm this reading is accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that freezing the apples in ice cider releases more sugars but also can make the result more acidic.  Is it possible that this reading of 1.86pH is correct, in this situation?  Does this sound realistic?  If so should I attempt to correct the acidity first before trying to pitch again?  I have potassium &amp;amp; calcium carbonate with which to do it, but I'm reticent to try to adjust pH if it turns out the meter I'm using is miles off the mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth trying to proof more yeast in this same juice, or do I just risk wasting it if the acidity is really the issue?  Is there anything else I could have missed that may be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Juice from own frozen apples, no preservatives&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Campden used but given plenty of time after&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nutrient added (DaP)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pectolase added&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast hydrated and pitched correctly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SG seems reasonable to start fermentation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pH reading extremely low, but may be incorrect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No activity on airlock, no krausen, no drop in SG, 24 hours after second pitch attempt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17711" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2021-09-10T01:29:40.603" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T01:29:40.603" Title="Ice cider - fermentation won't start, extreme acidity reported" Tags="|cider|stuck-fermentation|ph|acidity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25667" CreationDate="2021-09-03T13:47:24.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is certainly possible, but commercially I know only two examples. One is bread that is (was) baked in Vleteren, home of the Struise Brouwers. It was made with the yeast from their Pannepot beer. The other are the pizzas at Otomat, which are baked with Duvel yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make a difference in both cases? I really don't know, both taste like bread and pizza.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baker's yeast is much more optimised to feed on starches, which for beer would be transformed in the mash into sugars. Most brewing yeasts (except diastatic versions) can't feed on starches, only on sugars. So maybe rising might go better when sugar is added to the bread/pizza dough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know if it works, I suggest first to buy a sachet of ale yeast (something like US-05), a sachet of lager yeast and a sachet of dry bread yeast and experiment with them, using one single recipe of bread to bake and substitute the yeast each time. This would give three kinds of bread that you can then compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-09-03T13:47:24.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22934" CreationDate="2021-09-06T06:16:57.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So i've been a little stressed about this SG stuff so i'm putting something to make u think or at least to get more info&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I needed to find more info about this bc I use the International Metric System and I wanted to know how to get this data using a formula or something so i started to research a lot...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;*I was studying about SG and is really called Relative Density bc it's relative to the thing you are using to solubilize or &amp;quot;the solvent&amp;quot; which in this case is water*&lt;/code&gt; - So after this said i'm going to continue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Relative Density is: Solution Density(1.xxx) / Water Density (at 20ºC is about .9982)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relative density tell us about how is the density of a solution taking account that one is denser than other, easy right? well a lot of literature there complicates this shid a lot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The density of water is .9982 gr/cm3 and pure sucrose is 1.59 gr/cm3, so you will never surpass the 1.59 in your SG if this is made of pure sucrose. Relative Density tell us what is the relation between 2 different densities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So i'm making some math and correct me if i'm wrong:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Density: mass/vol&#xA;Density of a solution water + pure sucrose = (mass water + mass sucrose)/(vol water + vol sucrose)&#xA;Example of a calculation based on pounds/galon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3778.2 gr + 454 gr)/(3785 cm3 + 285.53 cm3)= 1.0395...&#xA;Relative density: 1.0397/.9982 = 1.0415&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let me ask, ¿¿¿where do people is getting that a pound (454gr) of pure sucrose in a gal (3.785 lt) is 1.045???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been checking my calculations with pages like this and im getting pretty close with this formula than the one it's used by everyone&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/density-aqueous-solution-organic-sugar-alcohol-concentration-d_1954.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/density-aqueous-solution-organic-sugar-alcohol-concentration-d_1954.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/9780471790990.oth1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/9780471790990.oth1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/1-kg-water-8-g-sugar-1-003-gravity.357672/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/1-kg-water-8-g-sugar-1-003-gravity.357672/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&lt;strong&gt;Take in account that starch density is 1.5 gr/cm3 so maybe there is something going on between transformed starches and not 100%transformed by the enzymes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to get the 1.045 SG that everyone uses is that the sugar had 1.67 gr/cm3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19539" LastActivityDate="2021-09-06T06:16:57.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25668" CreationDate="2021-09-06T12:06:29.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now have fermentation - TL;DR: do not trust cheap digital instruments!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheap Chinese pH meter I used was reporting nonsense, it turns out the juice was actually at 3.6pH (once tested with decent quality strips). So, nothing wrong with the acidity at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried again with properly rehydrated Lalvin D47 from another supplier, and now have good fermentation progressing with a lot of bubbling from the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible the first two packets of yeast I tried were bad. The only other thing I can think of that I did differently, was that I took longer to carefully lower the temperature to 22C (temperature of the wort) from the rehydration temperature of 35C. It's possible I didn't do this slowly enough with my first two attempts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in summary: acid had nothing to do with it, false alarm!  The yeast was the problem after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17711" LastActivityDate="2021-09-06T12:06:29.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5492" CreationDate="2021-09-09T04:06:02.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some fairly recent research has shown that dry hopping affects beer bitterness in a number of different, interesting and even unexpected ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address the main question of whether or not dry hopping &lt;strong&gt;adds&lt;/strong&gt; bitterness: it absolutely &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; (but not necessarily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Humulinones:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops, and especially hop pellets, contain &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hopsteiner.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/2015-04_TS_Humulione.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;humulinones&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, a recently-discovered oxidation by-product of hop alpha-acids. They are suggested to be ~65% as bitter as iso-alpha-acids (i.e. 1 ppm of humulinone would be ~0.65 IBUs), and are also readily dissolved in beer &lt;em&gt;without boiling&lt;/em&gt;. That is to say, they can be directly extracted into finished beer when dry-hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dx.doi.org/10.1094/TQ-53-1-0227-01&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This study&lt;/a&gt; tested commercially available IPAs and found humulinone concentrations as high as 24 ppm. It also suggests that humulinones are not derived from hops during boiling (meaning their contribution is basically all due to dry hopping). So, given the relative bitterness of the humulinones, it seems fair to conclude that a beer with 24 ppm of humulinone has ~16 IBUs worth of bitterness &lt;em&gt;from dry hopping alone&lt;/em&gt;. Not at all a trivial number (though not huge, to be fair).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hulupones:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1094/ASBCJ-2016-1130-01&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Another study&lt;/a&gt; (which also confirms some points about humulinone) suggests that &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;hulupones&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (an oxidation by-product of hop beta-acids) can contribute directly to beer bitterness through dry hopping, though it's much less clear to what degree. Hulupone is shown to be ~85% as bitter as iso-alpha-acid (i.e. 1 ppm of hulupone would give ~0.85 IBUs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previous studies (cited in the paper) suggest hulupone levels in hops anywhere between 0-3% by weight, and the study itself doses hulupone extract into beer at levels up to 40 ppm (indicating it is clearly soluble). Though no conclusive evidence is shown (and I could not find any additionally), if hops with high enough hulupone concentrations are used for dry hopping, they should be able to contribute non-negligible amounts of bitterness directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dry hopping and pH:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first MBAA study linked to above, it was shown that dry hopping seems to linearly increase the pH of the beer, and that the increase in pH seems to cause an increase in the perception of bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dry hopping can actually decrease bitterness:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, dry hopping can &lt;em&gt;remove&lt;/em&gt; iso-alpha-acids from finished beer (presumably by the vegetative matter adsorbing the hydrophobic acids and falling out of suspension). &lt;a href=&quot;http://dx.doi.org/10.1094/TQ-53-3-0808-01&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;In yet another study&lt;/a&gt;, beers of relatively high bitterness were dry hopped with Cascade hops at 1 lb. per barrel (a modest amount by modern standards...) and were shown to have lost up to 37% of their iso-alpha-acids in the process (51 ppm before dry hopping and 32 after, in the paper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some general take-aways:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While dry hopping absolutely can add bitterness, it can also take it away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In general, beers low in bitterness to begin with may have significant bitterness contributions from dry hopping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More bitter (to begin with) beers may tend to lose bitterness in the dry hopping process, even if some of it is replaced with bitterness from humulinones or hulupones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's possible (and seems feasible) that high-alpha hops, having more of the precursors to humulinones, could contribute more bitterness during dry hopping that low-alpha hops. This appears to have not been studied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, here are two blog posts which touch on this subject in a more &lt;em&gt;homebrew-friendly&lt;/em&gt; fashion, including recipes, home-scale trials and discussions with the author of two of the studies I've linked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://scottjanish.com/dry-hopping-effect-bitterness-ibu-testing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://scottjanish.com/dry-hopping-effect-bitterness-ibu-testing/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://scottjanish.com/increasing-bitterness-dry-hopping/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://scottjanish.com/increasing-bitterness-dry-hopping/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also note that the accepted answer's points on polyphenols contributing to bitterness are still spot-on and entirely relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9654" LastEditDate="2024-03-14T02:38:54.390" LastActivityDate="2024-03-14T02:38:54.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10545" CreationDate="2021-09-10T06:35:50.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having the same question, and I guess they were trying to say this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;3.8 lt of solution with 454 gr of sugar is = 1.045~1.046 SG(Relative Density)&amp;quot;, which means: Density of solution/Density of water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bc the solution being 3.8 liters is the only way it makes sense (not diluting 454 gr of sugar in 3.8 lt of water), look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the metric system would be 119.9 gr of sugar per liter (of solution, not water), the sugar has 1.59 gr/cm3 and water is .99821 gr/cm3 at 20ºC so to get the density would be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weights  119.9 gr sugar and 922.9362 gr water&#xA;cm3 (ml) 75.4088 cm3 sugar and 924.5912 cm3 (ml)water = 1000 ml of solution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember we are trying to get the solution measure, so we are counting that the solution is made by putting sugar and then adding water until it reaches 1000 ml, so we calculate the space sugar occupies and substract it from the 1000 cm3(ml), so we get less water than 1 liter and end with less weight in gr bc water weights less than 1gr (.99821) at 20ºC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 1042.8362gr/1000cm3(total ml of the solution)= 1.0428362/.9982(density of solution7density of water) = 1.0447~1.045&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked this formula with two different sources and its very close, although i would love to be super close&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/density-aqueous-solution-organic-sugar-alcohol-concentration-d_1954.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/density-aqueous-solution-organic-sugar-alcohol-concentration-d_1954.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/9780471790990.oth1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/9780471790990.oth1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope we get close to what they mean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19539" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T06:35:50.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-10T14:15:46.103" Score="4" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was making some apple vinegar and decided to just try and make a bit of apple &amp;quot;cider&amp;quot; while I was doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be honest its not really cider.  I just have pulped a few apples mixed in a bit of water and honey and added that to a couple of glass bottles and covered with a cloth and elastic band.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably more of a prison brew than cider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is simple - will it work or just wasting my time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Richard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19549" LastEditorUserId="12662" LastEditDate="2021-10-25T19:59:13.867" LastActivityDate="2021-10-25T20:05:20.247" Title="Making Lazy &quot;Cider&quot;" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25676" CreationDate="2021-09-11T13:46:46.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a &amp;quot;ciderkin&amp;quot;, which originally was a very weak beverage of around 1% ABV made from adding extra water to pressed apples to produce a beverage suitable for children to drink (hence the &amp;quot;kin&amp;quot; part of the term -- think &amp;quot;kindergarten&amp;quot; or some other German words).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you'll get a fermented cider-like beverage from this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make what you like.  We all have our own tastes.  Cheers to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-09-11T13:46:46.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-11T19:17:41.900" Score="2" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m not home brewing anything but I recently got some swing top glass bottles with the idea that I could put my store bought sodas in them. I have many medical issues &amp;amp; one of them causes chronic nausea and vomiting so I always have the 2 liters of Sprite, 7up, and Ginger Ale on hand because they are the only ones that help a bit. I can only afford the 2L, the others are too expensive.&#xA;I’ve tried to transfer them a couple of times but it’s been a total failure. In reading some comments here, I see that using a funnel is not a good idea? Here’s my problem- a full 2L is pretty heavy at first to pour from and I have a hand tremor so I always have to use a funnel when I pour anything.&#xA;Does anyone have any tips on how I can get this done? I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19552" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T13:51:19.517" Title="Not homebrewing, but I need help bottling for medical issues" Tags="|bottling|carbonation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25678" CreationDate="2021-09-12T15:35:27.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry, but transferring 2L bottles to smaller Grolsch style flip-top bottles to preserve carbonation just sounds like far more trouble than it could be worth, to satisfy an old wives' tale that white soda and ginger ale help to calm a nauseous stomach.  If you like the white sodas in smaller amounts, and need to minimize costs, look for deals on generic sodas from your local discount store, such as this one which is only 1.9 cents per ounce: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-Twist-Up-Lemon-Lime-Soda-12-fl-oz-12-count/10794699&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-Twist-Up-Lemon-Lime-Soda-12-fl-oz-12-count/10794699&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-09-12T15:35:27.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21757" CreationDate="2021-09-16T05:22:27.740" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Demijohn, carboy, or any container that is fermenting or aging wine MUST ABSOLUTELY be filled to near the top to absolutely minimize the amount of oxygen that is present. This is basic wine making 101 protocol. Anyone that says otherwise, has no clue and ends up with a grossly inferior product. If drinking an alcohol product is your goal with no other objective, then fill the container up as you choose.Just being honest here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19563" LastActivityDate="2021-09-16T05:22:27.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25678" CreationDate="2021-09-18T13:51:19.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;things 'able' people don't think about, but it makes total sense!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have sat back in my chair and thought about this for half an hour or so, this is what I came up with, food for thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy smaller bottles in bulk (although more initial outlay), makro, bookers... do a deal with the owner of your local corner shop who goes to the 'cash and carry'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soda Stream (expensive to run), transfer the large bottles to smaller ones, and fizz them up if/when needed. I have seen 3D printed leavers and other attachments that will make the button easier to push.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CO2 tank, regulator and fittings (this would be a bit of a project), &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaC14YpDJHw&amp;amp;ab_channel=BeverageFactory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;. the tank would last for a very long time (way more than a year if not a couple of years), I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.adamsgas.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Adamsgas&lt;/a&gt; and after your all setup, the running costs would be £15-£20 when you need a refill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is of help in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T13:51:19.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25684" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-19T12:25:38.803" Score="1" ViewCount="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just ordered a kit from their website that is for catching/growing wild yeast strains for home brews. I was wondering if anyone else may have used them or tried doing this their selves. It's one thing to just try and open ferment, but this actually isolates proper strains for less work and better beer. Any advice welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19572" LastActivityDate="2021-09-19T12:25:38.803" Title="Has anyone used Bootleg Biology? Any experience with catching/ growing wild yeast strains?" Tags="|sour|yeast-cultures|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-20T20:27:36.867" Score="2" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my country the yeast for brewing is not available, so people use baking yeast instead of it.&#xA;It works but obviously it's not ideal.&#xA;I've seen a video that the person was making natural yeast from raisins and grape but when I try to do the same procedure it doesn't work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there is a way to grow yeast from fruits? or anything that is available in all the countries :))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19578" LastActivityDate="2021-09-21T22:10:03.787" Title="Is it possible to grow yeast from fruits?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25685" CreationDate="2021-09-21T22:10:03.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick answer, yes it is possible. Will you get a desirable wine yeast, from grapes maybe, from plums, less likely. Will they ferment a mixture of sugars yes, will it taste good... maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are thousands of species and strains of yeast if not millions, or more. Yes you can plate up isolate and then culture up yeast/bacteria/etc... but you do need to know what you are doing. and if plating up to isolate before culturing then you need to be aware of the risks(see identifying video).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully these videos help explain it a bit better than I can without writing you an essay on microbiology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Capturing wild yeast 1.2.3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Capture the yeast - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqcc9ZeLBXM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqcc9ZeLBXM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purify the yeast - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDvGvBVw3gg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDvGvBVw3gg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Identifying organisms - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abQNl6WIdc8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abQNl6WIdc8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isolating yeasts from plums - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85IXCUdhobQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85IXCUdhobQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Streak plating - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCOtWztCObY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCOtWztCObY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home yeast lab made easy serise - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtXrsvNLCxk&amp;amp;list=PLZ3Z2428mCTqDFK-3ZSNpZBXJfTaMtRXE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtXrsvNLCxk&amp;amp;list=PLZ3Z2428mCTqDFK-3ZSNpZBXJfTaMtRXE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2021-09-21T22:10:03.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25661" CreationDate="2021-09-22T15:33:39.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can condition carbonate in your keg. This isn't the best for a neipa and would take at least 2 weeks at room temperature, but I think keg conditioning is safer than bottle conditioning due the risk of oxydation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16606" LastActivityDate="2021-09-22T15:33:39.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25696" CreationDate="2021-09-24T18:12:43.930" Score="1" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done a few extract kit beers and now a few partial mashes. I am starting the process of ramping up to all-grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many online &amp;quot;brewing calculators&amp;quot;, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/mash-chemistry-and-brewing-water-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this mash water chemistry tool by Beersmith&lt;/a&gt;, they indicate that the total water volume is different than the mash water volume:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5GSyZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5GSyZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can understand that total water volume &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be equal to mash volume plus sparge water volume, but is any other water (besides the sparge) added to the &amp;quot;total&amp;quot; at any point in the all grain brewing process? Why is it added, and when?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastActivityDate="2021-09-27T11:58:47.250" Title="Besides sparge water, what other water do all-grain brewers add in (and why)?" Tags="|water|sparge|calculations|beersmith|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5245" CreationDate="2021-09-25T08:39:35.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of today, there are zero known toxic microorganisms that can be found in beer. Even methyl alcohol cannot be found in a contaminated (infected) batch of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19603" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2021-09-29T08:27:56.920" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T08:27:56.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25209" CreationDate="2021-09-25T17:01:00.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a wild idea. What would happen if you took a 5 gallon glass carboy and bought some paraffin, cut it up and dropped it in and set the carboy into a bath of heated water? The melted paraffin would form a layer on the bottom, reducing the volume to whatever you wanted. I don't think it would react with the wine (would it?), and getting it out would just involve another water bath. A pound costs $3.12 at Walmart and you would need 8.4 to add up to a gallon, so $28. The stuff is food grade, so what could possibly go wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19606" LastActivityDate="2021-09-25T17:01:00.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-26T20:42:05.607" Score="2" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made about 8 litres of cider 2 weeks ago and put it in a 30 litre fermentation bin which meant that there is a lot of air still in the bin. I have now learnt that is not ideal. Is there anything I can do. Should I leave it or move it to demijohns.&#xA;Any advise welcome&#xA;Darren&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19607" LastActivityDate="2021-09-27T11:53:13.440" Title="New to Cider making" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25694" CreationDate="2021-09-27T11:53:13.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For primary fermentation the extra headspace won't be a tremendous issue as the fermentation will fill the rest of the chamber with CO2. Cider can oxidize, however in my experienced the off-flavors aren't as pronounced as in a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once primary fermentation is over, you may want to rack it into a secondary container to condition. If you choose to do that- you will want to reduce the amount of headspace as much as possible during that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-09-27T11:53:13.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25691" CreationDate="2021-09-27T11:58:47.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Total water in your kettle is typically Mash liquor + sparge liquor - grain absorption, which you've essentially stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't speak for this calculator, but for the purpose of simple all-grain brewing don't let it throw you off too much. These calculators are an assistant at best and will get close (and tbh have gotten much better over the years)- but will never really match up 100%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are certain brewing processes in which one might start with a more concentrated wort solution and top off with water (among other things) but these are typically for pretty special processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-09-27T11:58:47.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25700" CreationDate="2021-09-30T14:35:31.353" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to brewing and for the first half-dozen batches I have just used packets of Burtonizing Water Salts to treat my water picked up at my local homebrew supply store. So far, per that store's owner, I've added 9 grams of the salts to my boil when there's 15-minutes left. Beers have turned out pretty decent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now want to level up my water treatment game a bit. I'd like to start targeting specific water profiles based on the beer I'm brewing. To make things super simple, for now, I am using distilled water purchased in gallon jugs from the grocery store. I will likely upgrade to my own RO system based on the popular YouTube video by Brew Cabins, or do something similar. But I'm not there yet: for now, I'm going with distilled water as the source. Why? Because I can control it and I &lt;strong&gt;know&lt;/strong&gt; the salt and mineral levels of my source water (zero for everything!). Its a constant that I can depend on. I live in a very small town and had 2 separate Ward Lab readings come back significantly different just 3 months apart from one another, so I do not want to trust my tap water at this moment in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then, going to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/mash-chemistry-and-brewing-water-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brewer's Friend Mash Water Treatment Calculator&lt;/a&gt;, I punch in my water volume and source water numbers (0 for everything since its distilled); and 6.2 for the pH since I've read distilled water is typically around there. I have a digital pH meter on order and will use that and make corrections to the guesstimate of 6.2 moving forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to try a Wee Heavy, and so I've selected the &lt;em&gt;Edinburgh&lt;/em&gt; water profile for Scottish and malty ales. It gives me the PPMs for 3 cations and 3 anions that I need to target to achieve an &amp;quot;Edinburgh&amp;quot; water profile, and more importantly, computes the delta for each brew salt. Now the alchemy begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;strong&gt;Salt Additions&lt;/strong&gt; section I play around with the number of grams for various salts. I have read in several places that you want to target being +/- 20 PPMs for each salt (&lt;strong&gt;you may disagree with this, and if you do, I'd love to hear about it and find out why!&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, after doing some alchemy and playing with additions, I've found that by adding a certain amount of Gypsum, Calcium Chloride, Chalk and Baking Soda that my &amp;quot;deltas&amp;quot; are all within +/- 20 ppm of Edinburgh. I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; this is mission accomplished (maybe?)! What's more, the water report shows all these additions as being within a safe/normal range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to begin with, seeing how this actually is my first rodeo, I'm not sure if I'm using the tool correctly or not; if I'm not, then based on my description above I'd appreciate input on what the correct way of using the tool actually is!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming my process above is more or less correct, then if I &lt;em&gt;am&lt;/em&gt; using the tool correctly, &lt;strong&gt;how and when do I add these salts?&lt;/strong&gt; To the boil? 15 minutes out from the end of the boil? Just dump them in the boil and stir them in? Or is the process completely different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastActivityDate="2021-09-30T14:59:06.423" Title="Treating water with brew salts to hit a target profile, by example" Tags="|boil|water|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25699" CreationDate="2021-09-30T14:59:06.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should add them to all of your water, mash liquor and sparge, before you mash and filter. Because the profile that you want to have is the profile of the water used by brewers when they did not know anything about minerals yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brewing salts influence not only the pH of your water, but also influence the pH of your mash. And the pH of your sparge water is also important, because it influences the pH of your wort at the boil. The minerals also act as buffer salts in your mash, which optimize more or less the chemical reactions that convert the starches into all kinds of sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-09-30T14:59:06.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-03T01:15:00.083" Score="0" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started a melomel batch two weeks ago. Below are a list of batch details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;5 gallon batch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;frozen blueberries (roughly 4-5lbs per gallon)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;18.5 lbs of honey (raw, unpasteurized honey from my fathers farm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;10 grams of Red Star Cote De Blanc yeast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;pitched with 12.5 grams of Go-ferm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Staggered yeast nutrient addition (fermaid O)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0 hours : 10.9 grams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;24 hours : 10.9 grams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;48 hours : 10.9 grams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/3 sugar break (roughly 96 hours) : 10.9 grams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OG: 1.155&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation started really well. In about 16 hours it started burping out of the airlock. I &amp;quot;punched&amp;quot; the cap twice a day for the first week, and do it once every two days now. On a final note, I have a very sanitary procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my 3rd mead, and my 2nd melomel. My question is regarding SG's and ABV. My OG started high at 1.155, and hit that 1/3rd sugar break rather quickly. I took a measure of the SG today and it was all the way down to 1.006! Meaning the %ABV is at 18.8! The Tolerance of Red Star Cote De Blanc is rated at 12-14%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took these measurements multiple times today to make sure I wasn't making a mistake. So my question really is: Is there something wrong with this batch that would allow it to go to such a low SG? Or is this just a happy little accident that will make this batch much higher %ABV than intended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know wild yeast can exist in raw unpasteurized honey so I am wondering if it is possible that is playing a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19627" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2021-10-03T13:44:36.653" LastActivityDate="2024-01-11T21:06:15.753" Title="ABV question in 5 gallon melomel batch" Tags="|fermentation|mead|contamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25703" CreationDate="2021-10-03T02:06:03.803" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;The formula I've consistently found for calculating the IBU for a particular hop is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;IBU = Weight (ounces) x Alpha Acid % x Utilization % x 7489&#xA;      -----------------------------------------------------&#xA;                            Volume&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I've read in several places that, for OGs north of 1.050, there is a so-called &lt;em&gt;gravity correction factor&lt;/em&gt; that gets applied to that equation, and I am looking for clarity on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this gravity correction factor, how does it impact the above equation, and why is it needed? Why is 1.050 the &amp;quot;threshold&amp;quot; for using it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastActivityDate="2021-10-03T11:41:12.113" Title="What is the &quot;gravity correction factor&quot; for IBU formulation and why do we apply it at 1.050?" Tags="|hops|specific-gravity|calculations|ibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25702" CreationDate="2021-10-03T08:31:52.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I consulted &amp;quot;Designing Great Beers&amp;quot;, and indeed, it shows the same formula, without really explaining why the gravity correction factor is applied, only that it needs to be applied, with emphasis from the author, at wort gravity greater than 1.050 &amp;quot;during boiling&amp;quot;. So not because your end product has a gravity greater than 1.050.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that alpha-acids isomerize with more difficulty in worts that have a gravity greater than 1.050. So your utilization drops, and you need more hops to obtain the same bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should actually apply this to the whole boil. You need to check at every point where you want to add hops (e.g. at 30 and 15 minutes before the end of the boil) what the gravity is at that point and adjust your utilization accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2021-10-03T11:41:12.113" LastActivityDate="2021-10-03T11:41:12.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-03T17:59:55.167" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having luck brewing kombucha this past year and am interested in trying out ginger beer since I have been lead to believe the processes are quite similar (besides the 1 way valve for 1F). Whenever I've brewed kombucha I've stopped 2F after 3-5 days simply by putting the bottles in the fridge. However, I've read a few instructionals on ginger beer that recommend pasteurizing. Is there a difference with a ginger beer bacterial culture (vs a SCOBY for reference) that would cause it to continue fermenting substantially at fridge temperatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19628" LastActivityDate="2024-03-08T03:07:10.763" Title="Is it common to refrigerate after 2F with ginger beer?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|secondary-fermentation|ginger-beer|kombucha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25707" CreationDate="2021-10-04T01:03:48.030" Score="1" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just read &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/hLffCRjWv0/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Beer and Brewing article&lt;/a&gt; on iso-alpha acids in hops and am trying to understand something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3rd paragraph in that article states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Iso-alpha acids are formed typically during wort boiling, when hops are added, and alpha acids are extracted from the hops’ lupulin glands (or from the hop resin in hop extracts). Isomerization is the result of the effect of heat on the alpha acids. The process is both time and temperature dependent. The longer the alpha acids are exposed to the rolling wort boil, the more alpha acids are converted into iso-alpha acids and the more bitterness is created in the wort and beer. See boiling. Hops that are added late in the boil, on the other hand, still release their aroma oils—and these will not all evaporate into the kettle stack—but a much smaller proportion of their alpha acids will become iso-alpha acids.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it &lt;em&gt;sounds&lt;/em&gt; like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the hops' lupulin glands produce these &lt;em&gt;alpha acids&lt;/em&gt; which in and of themselves are simply &lt;em&gt;aromatics&lt;/em&gt;; they only contribute hops aromas/smells&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when hops are added to the boil, their alpa acids leach into the boil and produce hop aromas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if they stay in the boil for a certain length of time, the temperature &lt;em&gt;isomerizes&lt;/em&gt; these hop alpha acids (or is it resins?) which is what creates the hallmark bitter hop taste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and if the isomerized acids (&amp;quot;iso-alpha acids&amp;quot;) stay in the boil for another certain length of time, they end up boiling out altogether, leaving neither bitter hop taste nor hop aroma behind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone begin by clarifying/correcting me if any of my understanding from above is incorrect? Particularly on the difference between what alpha acids and iso-alpha acids contribute vs hop resins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And once I'm set straight on &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt;, my real question here is: what are the &amp;quot;certain points&amp;quot; mentioned above? In other words, at what point in the boil (minutes-wise) do hops isomerize? At what point do all hop flavors &amp;amp; aromas boil out altogether? Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T12:39:27.647" Title="Hop alpha acid, iso-alpha acid and resin contributions to the boil, by example" Tags="|hops|boil|aroma|bitterness|ibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25308" CreationDate="2021-10-04T07:25:38.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have breed multiple pseudo lagers with lutra now and under different temps. Between 25c and 35c. All where brewed under 15psi. Fermentation was always between 3 to 3 days but l leave it in the fermenter for between 7 to 10 days. Then pressure transfer to a keg with gelatin. 10 days later I have a super clear beer that is not a lager but most people that taste it do not know the difference. It is clean and crisp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19629" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T07:25:38.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25705" CreationDate="2021-10-04T12:39:27.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hops' lupulin glands do not only produce alpha-acids. They produce also other volatile substances (oils, resins) which give flavor and aroma to beer. And the hops also contain tannins which also enter into the beer upon boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alpha-acid are primarily responsible for the isomerized alpha-acid bitterness in beer. This is influenced by the alpha-acid percentage of the hop, the amount of hop used and the duration of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The isomerized alpha-acids, or the hop bitterness, will not be removed from the boil by longer boiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tannins (akin to the vegetal material of the hops) will also contribute to the flavor and mouthfeel of the beer. Brew to beers with the same recipe, only a bittering addition but from two different hops, they will taste different. This flavour will also remain in the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there are the volatile compounds in the lupulin, aromatic oils, resins, etc. These have all different evaporation temperatures and resistance against boiling. These are indeed the ones that will disappear during the boil. That is why, to get an effect from these compounds in the beer, hops are added at the end (or the last quarter, or different other times, or even during fermentation and conditioning: dry hopping) of the boil. They will contribute different substances towards flavor and aroma of the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T12:39:27.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25717" CreationDate="2021-10-04T15:12:28.567" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if anybody is knowledgeable about grain/malt Diastatic Power, its scale and how to interpret its scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a few references that essentially say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if DP &amp;gt;= 70 Lintners, there is plenty of DP to allow starch conversion into sugars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;else if 30 &amp;lt; DP &amp;lt;= 69, then you will need to mash longer to achieve the desired starch conversion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;else (DP &amp;lt; 30 Lintners), there will not be enough DP to convert starches into sugars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody speak to this and possibly cite references? If the scale/legend above is accurate, is there such a thing as &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;too much DP&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; (say, a DP of 200, etc.)? And if its wrong, what is the correct way to interpret your grain bill's DP rating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there any way to use DP to calculate or adjust mash profile (for instance, if my DP is x, then I might want to do a alpha amylase rest for 15 minutes, but if my DP is y, I need to do that same rest for 25 minutes, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastActivityDate="2021-10-07T21:51:16.190" Title="Interpreting how diastatic power impacts the mash" Tags="|mash|grain|conversion|amylase-enzymes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25734" CreationDate="2021-10-05T15:47:47.470" Score="0" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;h2&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Almost half of my pale beers have trouble carbonating in the bottle, being almost uncarbonated after 2 weeks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I have ever had this issue with a dark ale or porter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Details&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing for the better part of a year now, doing a weekly small batch brew. I've been brewing a mix of pale and darker ales/ porters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of my beers use some protafloc for clarity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of my beers use some Clarity Ferm (to make them gluten free)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of my beers have 4 weeks in the fermenter (5L glass demijohn), even if the bubbler airlock flattens out before this&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of my beers spend 2 weeks carbonating in the bottle in a dark cupboard, using 1 coopers carbonation drop per bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of my beers come in around 4-6% abv&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use a mix of yeasts in different beers, lately most of my pale beers use lalbrew verdant ipa&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I live in the UK (if you're wondering about temperature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be happy to clarify any questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18948" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T13:35:15.133" Title="What possible reasons cause a (pale) beer to fail to carbonate in the bottle" Tags="|beer|carbonation|ale|bottle|pale|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-06T16:30:40.507" Score="1" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first attempt at making homemade wine.  I started with the Red Star Blanc in a one gallon jar.  I'm almost a week into my first fermentation.  For my second fermentation I plan on using the Red star Cuvee champagne yeast to push the bubbles in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peach sparkling wine is the goal, without as much of the dryness of white wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note- I'm a non-drinker and has not had a glass of anything with alcohol in my life.  I love cooking and tinkering with science projects, and home brewing could potentially be my huckleberry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I have no palette reference I have plenty of family and friends that are willing to assist me in balancing flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts or insights into the best course of action, would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TLM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19635" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T22:07:35.413" Title="Started first fermentation with Red Star Blanc. I was planning on adding the Cuvee yeast for second fermentation. Will this be ok for sparkling wine?" Tags="|yeast|wine|first-time-brewer|secondary-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25710" CreationDate="2021-10-06T22:07:35.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see the Cuvee yeast addition as being necessary, or perhaps even advisable. The 'second fermentation' of wine is really just a conditioning phase, the main point of racking this off into secondary is to get it off the yeast before it autolyses and dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically- it likely wouldn't hurt anything too bad. But it probably won't help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears what you're looking for is a carbonated, semi-sweet fruit wine. This is actually trickier than most folks think, particularly when you're bottle conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't listed any must ingredients, but I can tell you that with your current strategy you're likely to end up with something probably dryer and more tart than you'd like, especially if you're not accustomed to drinking wine or other fermented beverages at all. That said, it still might be totally enjoyable and a fun experience regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T22:07:35.413" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25713" CreationDate="2021-10-07T05:35:31.787" Score="2" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m on day 9 of my home brew and the top has been taken off for about 5 seconds. Reading up on the CO2 layer that the yeast creates in wort and that exposure to oxygen can spoil your beer, I fear my batch might be in jeopardy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have some knowledge or experience on this issue? Or done so in the past?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would ease my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19633" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2021-10-07T12:20:22.600" LastActivityDate="2021-10-07T12:20:22.600" Title="Will taking the top off my vessel on day 9 spoil my brew?" Tags="|fermentation|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25712" CreationDate="2021-10-07T08:47:53.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Six seconds is nothing. I do open fermentation for a couple of days, then rack my beer into a closed fermenter after four days. For this I need to expose my beer for more than a couple of seconds. I get fine beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work clean and minimise exposition, but do not worry too much. Beer is more resilient than people usually think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-10-07T08:47:53.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-07T14:39:10.910" Score="1" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making my fist batch of Honey Mead. I had followed the &amp;quot;fast mead making&amp;quot; recipe on &amp;quot; Stormthecastle&amp;quot;, added the orange and the raisons, the balloon with pinhole first inflated and has now been deflated 2 days. The honey has disappeared and sediment is on the bottom. Total time elapsed has been approximately 6 weeks. ( I made the rookie error of not marking the start date but I know the approximate weekend)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now lost! I can't find any next steps and this is my first day on your site... My first post-&#xA;Please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19636" LastActivityDate="2021-10-07T20:35:37.687" Title="I've lost my online site for Mead Making!" Tags="|process|racking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-07T18:05:56.777" Score="2" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few fields with different fruits from grapes to dragon fruits, and I am an amateur homebrewer and want to get into wild Fermentation for ciders, fruit wines and later for beer after I learn the tricks of it. All the recipes I found online for guidance are not for beginners, or if they say they are, they are full of unnecessary info. I have a basic knowledge of winemaking and brewing. So the question is are any good sites, forums, recipes, books for learning the untold tricks, if any, of ciders, fruit wines and wild fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2021-10-13T23:50:05.590" Title="Any good Wild Fermentation for beer and cider sites, forums, recipes, and or books for beginners" Tags="|cider|first-time-brewer|wild-yeast|fruit-wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25714" CreationDate="2021-10-07T20:35:37.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, there is Archive.org to help you.  It took a snapshot of the webpage, it can be found here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20210512151955/http://www.stormthecastle.com/mead/fast-cheap-mead-making.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://web.archive.org/web/20210512151955/http://www.stormthecastle.com/mead/fast-cheap-mead-making.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always save your recipes before starting ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2021-10-07T20:35:37.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25708" CreationDate="2021-10-07T21:51:16.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Malting companies will provide the DP values for each malt (at least some do, ie: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simpsonsmalt.co.uk/our-malts/finest-pale-ale-maris-otter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.simpsonsmalt.co.uk/our-malts/finest-pale-ale-maris-otter/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of &amp;quot;roasting&amp;quot; malts (caramel, chocolat...) will decrease the value, so in general, speciality malts will have less DP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may calculate an average DP for your recipe, but remember that it is not a precise number, the DP is often a range of values (YMMV).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can compare DP (enzymes) to yeast, the more you add the faster it will work.  Having less DP will result in a slower conversion, by adding mash time, it compensates. There will not be too much DP in a recipe, it will only work faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question also provides some interresting knowledge : &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/21833/does-diastatic-power-reduce-with-age-old-grain&quot;&gt;Does diastatic power reduce with age? Old grain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/strong&gt; recommends a total grain bill DP of 40°Lintner minimum to perform the conversion. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Degree_Lintner#:%7E:text=Evaluation%20of%20a%20malt%20or,in%20the%20mash%20to%20sugars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Degree_Lintner#:~:text=Evaluation%20of%20a%20malt%20or,in%20the%20mash%20to%20sugars&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Greg Noonan&lt;/strong&gt; mentions here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.probrewer.com/library/malt/understanding-malt-analysis-sheets/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.probrewer.com/library/malt/understanding-malt-analysis-sheets/&lt;/a&gt; that conversion time will decrease if you increase the DP value of your grain bill.  Base malts could convert in 10 minutes, whereas 6-row could take only 5 minutes.  Below, let's say 40°L, enzymes in malts will convert their own starch but will have a hard time doing it for the entire grain bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With experience, you might figure that X amount of DP requires Y time to complete its work, but there are many valiables, so this could work for a specific recipe after several tests and result analysis (since homebrewers are generaly not equiped to measure this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, it is common sense, but I agree that this can be called &amp;quot;tribal knowledge&amp;quot; :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2021-10-07T21:51:16.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25719" CreationDate="2021-10-11T14:46:09.500" Score="2" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see a whole bunch of online pitch rate calculators such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one by Brewer's Friend&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm struggling to find the actual formula(e) used under the hood by them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know of any generally-accepted pitch rate formulas out there? Ideally I'd like to know what Brewer's Friend is using but I'll take anything thats in the ballpark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T12:27:43.110" Title="Formula for calculating pitch rate" Tags="|yeast|calculations|pitching-rate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25718" CreationDate="2021-10-12T10:54:42.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you view the source of the BF website, there is some packed javascript in there that you can run through an online tool to pretty-print some mathematical calculations used on the site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried using those pitch rate calculators but so much of it is guesswork that it just seems pointless. I have no idea how many billion cells (slurry density) I have in my harvested yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I harvest my yeast, I pour it into three 16oz mason jars. I like to leave about an inch of beer at the top as a vapor barrier when storing in the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I make beer, a few days prior I'll pull out a jar of slurry and give it a whiff. If it smells good, I'll make a starter and let it whirl on the stir plate a couple days. If the starter smells ok, I'll decant what I can and pitch the rest in my wort. I can usually see fermenter activity within a couple hours, depending on the temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes tools come along which add more drudgery and very little benefit. Whether the pitch tool is one of these, I don't know. For me though, I like to keep the rules simple and see what I can get away with. I want to have fun and make enjoyable beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastEditorUserId="18216" LastEditDate="2021-10-12T11:00:28.527" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T11:00:28.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25718" CreationDate="2021-10-12T12:27:43.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common advice says 0.75 million cells/ml/°P for ales and 1.5 million cells/ml/°P for lagers. However more modern breweries are upping these numbers just a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can say that calculations really only work when you're using a hemacytometer to measure cell count. Any eyeballing or using cell counts on yeast packaging- the math is all out the window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T12:27:43.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25715" CreationDate="2021-10-13T23:50:05.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sandor Kratz's Book &amp;quot;Wild Fermentation&amp;quot; is a great resource for all sorts of fermentation.  It primarily covers foods, but there is a chapter wines &amp;amp; meads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wildfermentation.com/wild-fermentation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.wildfermentation.com/wild-fermentation/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the first &amp;quot;cookbook&amp;quot; I ever read cover-to-cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2021-10-13T23:50:05.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25723" CreationDate="2021-10-14T01:32:45.020" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to yeast I often see three different descriptors used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;active vs. dormant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;needs to be rehydrated vs. doesn't&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dry vs liquid/wet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a newbie, my immediate inclination is to associate &lt;em&gt;dry&lt;/em&gt; (powdery) yeast with &lt;em&gt;dormant&lt;/em&gt;, however almost all &amp;quot;dry&amp;quot; yeast seems to also be billed as &lt;em&gt;dry active yeast (DAY)&lt;/em&gt;. Some yeasts need to be rehydrated whereas other yeast do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me sort all these monikers out in my head? Or is any combination thereof possible? Meaning, could I find an active, non-dormant, dry yeast that doesn't need to be rehydrated? As well as any other combination?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T13:25:18.710" Title="Yeast packaging formats by example" Tags="|yeast|yeast-starters|dry-yeast|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25722" CreationDate="2021-10-14T06:16:29.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Active and dormant are part of the yeast cycle and has nothing to do with sales or packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast becomes &lt;strong&gt;active&lt;/strong&gt; when it detects that is in a nutritious environment. Then it starts fermenting. When all nutrients (sugars) have been used up, then the yeast becomes &lt;strong&gt;dormant&lt;/strong&gt;, and then it flocculates out of the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it is liquid dormant, it can be dried, and then you get dry yeast. Liquid packages of yeast are also dormant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have at home trappist yeasts in liquid form in my fridge, these are all dormant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think &amp;quot;Dry Active Yeast&amp;quot; has more to do with marketing than technical merits. I even found a reference saying &amp;quot;active dry yeast is a dormant yeast&amp;quot;. But apparently this term is more used for baking yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rehydrating or not, some producers recommend it, and others don't. That is more to make the life of the hobby homebrewer simpler. I won't go into the pros or cons, because it is still being debated to death every now and then on most homebrew forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers to followup questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) All dry yeasts can be hydrated or pitched dry. What is being debated is if it makes a difference in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quality of the beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;viability of the yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) Yes, dry yeast stores better than liquid yeast. Viability of liquid yeast drops quickly. I have used dry yeast of more than two years old, stored in the fridge, without problems. I have used baking yeast of five years old, stored in the fridge, without problems for making bread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) Yes, there are less beer yeasts available in dry form, than liquid yeasts. However, (small) commercial brewing will probably use a dry yeast that best fits their product. It is much cheaper than buying liquid yeast, and one doesn't need laboratory equipment to create starters. And liquid starters tend to grow big, which means investing in laboratory material, making wort for starters, time to grow starters etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2021-10-14T12:45:20.437" LastActivityDate="2021-10-14T12:45:20.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25725" CreationDate="2021-10-14T11:37:05.223" Score="1" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say a beer has been exposed to too much oxygen and it is now giving off cardboard and stale flavors (oxygen-related off-flavors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say another beer has been exposed to too much light and is now lightstruck (skunked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any mechanisms exist (at either homebrewer scale or even the commercial/laboratory scale) to reverse either of these flaws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T09:07:29.373" Title="Possible to de-oxygenate and de-skunk a beer?" Tags="|off-flavor|oxygenation|skunk|light|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25724" CreationDate="2021-10-14T12:37:38.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that's sort of like reversing a piece of wood in a fire being burnt. The beer has gone through chemical changes- it's nontrivial to reverse them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any commercial or home-scale method that will effectively reverse oxidation.  Some people purport that campden tablets can help- but if a beer is well and truly oxidized I don't believe for a moment they'd have a noticeable impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preventing oxidized beer is key- but it's all a preventative game. Purge your containers, don't leave headspace, rack under pressure, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxidation is probably the most common and pervasive flaw in the brewing industry (at least in the US) for decades now. If there was a way to undo it, I think it'd be well established.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-10-14T12:37:38.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25676" CreationDate="2021-10-15T13:34:44.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was growing up, my dad had a few apple trees and could borrow a cider press to crush the apples.  We would simply crush the apples, press out the juice, and put the juice in gallon jugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing else!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wild yeast on the apple skins would turn the juice, first into cider, then into apple cider vinegar if we didn't drink it before that happened. We didn't know anything about stopping fermentation, or back sweetening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what the ABV might have been, perhaps 3% to 4%, but as I remember it tasted better to me than a lot of commercial hard ciders I've sampled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19672" LastActivityDate="2021-10-15T13:34:44.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25729" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2021-10-16T02:45:48.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;thesquaregroot&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been a moderator of this site since 2019. &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/election/1?tab=nomination#post-24151&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link to what I had to say the first time around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building on and re-iterating that, I have a fairly open interpretation of what this site can be, and am in favor of opening up to site to essentially anything that might be useful to homebrewers or anyone producing alcoholic drinks at home.  I am also in favor of merging this site with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://alcohol.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;Beer, Wine, and Spirits SE&lt;/a&gt; as I think it would ultimately form a more clear, complete, well-rounded, and active community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2021-10-16T02:45:48.587" LastActivityDate="2021-10-16T02:45:48.587" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-10-16T02:45:48.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4178" CreationDate="2021-10-17T19:50:37.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think know exactly the flavor you're talking about. A friend and I have also have been searching for this &amp;quot;nutty&amp;quot;, biscuity flavor for years without success. I've tried adding Melanoidin malt, Vienna malt, Munich malt, doing a decoction, using Barke's Pilsner malt, slightly roasting Pilsner malt, etc. Not even close. It's not the melanoidin. I think it must be a very special blend of several specially prepared German malts that we have no access to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19684" LastActivityDate="2021-10-17T19:50:37.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25724" CreationDate="2021-10-18T09:07:29.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cardboard flavours are not the result of oxygenation but of oxidation. Oxygen has chemically bonded to chemical compounds in the beer and permanently changed them. While this process should reversible in theory, it would take an insanely complex laboratory process. Think of it like putting the smoke and the heat back into a used match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skunk-ish aromas are the result of hop compounds breaking down (almost exclusively due to exposure to ultraviolet radiation in daylight) and this is, to all intents and purposes, completely irreversible. You cannot identify the breakdown products in the beer, and even if you could there's no way to glue them back together again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either toss the batch or run it through a reflux still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T09:07:29.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25722" CreationDate="2021-10-18T13:25:18.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the information already provided above: the term &amp;quot;active&amp;quot; yeast (as in Active Dry Yeast) primarily serves to distinguish between &amp;quot;live&amp;quot; yeast suitable for fermentation and inactivated (dead) yeast only suitable for health food supplements, yeast extract production for the food industry and the like. Active yeast is sold in a dormant state (since it will only come out of its dormant state when pitched into a yeast starter or fermenter). The distinction between dry yeast and sludge has already been discussed above; this makes no difference to the yeast being described as &amp;quot;active&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T13:25:18.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25709" CreationDate="2021-10-18T13:35:15.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible causes of uncarbonated beer after bottle conditioning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Insufficient priming sugar in the bottle, or no carbonation drop in the bottle. (I've made that mistake myself occasionally, thinking that I did put one in but didn't). If half your bottles are effected, I think we can rule that one out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Insufficient yeast left in the beer or insufficient yeast viability. Depending on how much yeast you settle out or how vigorous the yeast still is after fermentation you may run into problems with some bottles depending on the amount of dissolve oxygen in the bottle, which may vary. If this is the case, the uncarbonated beers will taste a lot more sugary-sweet than the carbonated ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leaky caps, which allow the pressure to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Low temperature. If the bottles condition at the low end of what the yeast will take, in-bottle fermentation may or may not take off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's pretty much it, really. Not much else can go wrong. So it's almost certainly one of these factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T13:35:15.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25735" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2021-10-18T21:09:44.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Mr. Boy&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First things first, I have never been a SE moderator, in fact I have never stood as one. I can't point to a proven track record in that regard. As a software developer though, I have however been an active SE member since the launch of Stack Overflow. I've been around the block, as they say, primarily on SO but over many other sites large and small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; acted as moderator in other online formats over the years such as forums and FaceBook groups, and forums especially have been a huge part of my life since I was a teen in the 90s. So I'm no newcomer to the online discussion world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, the smaller SE sites are the ones I enjoy the most. They retain the warmth and community spirit which I associate with the forums of old. That's something I'm a big fan of supporting, that in a world where the larger sites are increasingly hard-edged bustling metropolises we can have a friendly community where we seek to help each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastEditorUserId="12662" LastEditDate="2021-10-19T14:46:46.150" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T14:46:46.150" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-10-18T21:09:44.383" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-19T02:46:01.710" Score="7" ViewCount="3852" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started making my very first mead. I took 1kg of pure single-flower honey and 2.5L of water (actually, not tap water but a bottled one). According to the suggestions, I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warm 1L up to almost 50 Celsius.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the honey, mix, and avoid the whole mix to pass 50 Celsius.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take it out, mix another 1.5L of water, and put everything in the end flask (I use a flask with an airlock to do the fermentation process). Temperature will drop to a value in the 25-45 Celsius range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sample a glass of honey water, add some dry yeast (in my case, I used a dry yeast of type S04). Let it live a while in the glass until it expands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix that yeast-containing sample back into the whole honey water flask.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strongly close the lid, which has an airlock, and then hide it from the sunlight for 2 weeks. I kept a temperature of 20 Celsius (on day - it is lower on night).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, at least. No clearing substances, no hops (I wanted to keep that for further iterations and just try it veeeeery simple). Actually, I did not even measure the density (yes, I forgot that part, actually - I bought the densimeter just today).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT today, when I felt ready to bottle and continue, I took the potential mead flask to check it, and:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It had a lot of sediments in the bottom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It had alive yeast floating in the liquid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It had no unexpected particles, taste or smell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything was right save for a little fact: It didn't even have taste to alcohol. Despite the lots of sediments, which I thought it would mean &lt;em&gt;hey!, the yeast did a lot of work here&lt;/em&gt;, no taste to alcohol at all (and I &lt;em&gt;bought&lt;/em&gt; a mead first, to try it out first before doing my own). The taste is still... honey and water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can that be possible? What am I missing? How can I fix it? (I'm attaching four pictures of the current status)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LGTZ0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LGTZ0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Current honey-water mix&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tym0j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tym0j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom of the honey-water mix, with sediments&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbfgP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbfgP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;I store it in the dark&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnvoW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnvoW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Seriously, in the DARK&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19358" LastEditorUserId="19358" LastEditDate="2021-10-19T02:53:40.253" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T17:58:32.737" Title="My mead has no alcohol, but a lot of sediment" Tags="|mead|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25738" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2021-10-19T02:56:29.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Lucas Kauffman&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been involved in Stackexchange for over 10 years now. While I used to be more active on Serverfault and Security.SE my personal passion has shifted more and more to Homebrewing in recent years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to help grow the community as a whole and figure out what our direction should we and how we can further generate a larger user-base as to get more, qualitative questions with regard to homebrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastEditorUserId="13095" LastEditDate="2021-10-19T02:56:29.540" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T02:56:29.540" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-10-19T02:56:29.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25737" CreationDate="2021-10-19T03:33:22.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two weeks seem a bit short for fermenting out a mead - I would say it&#xA;can take 3-4 weeks. Your mead might still be tasting of honey and&#xA;water because there is not full alcohol development yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not taste test - but use a gravity meter. The good thing about honey is that it's pretty predictable when it comes to calculating OG just from the ingredients - so even though you did not take a reading, you should still be able to approximate how far you are off from the OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Give it a bit more time - do a reading now with a gravity meter and another reading in a week's time. If it's still the same you may have a stalled fermentation. In that case you need to check what the OG was and the current gravity. If it's still more than 1/3 of the OG (if it's less, you may oxydize the mead) you can consider re-oxygenating the must and pitching a new packet of yeast. &lt;em&gt;(read the last point)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You are using S04 which is rated for about ~7% ABV - with 1 KG of honey in 2.5 liters of water, you have the potential of 12.5% ABV. It may well be the case your fermentation is &amp;quot;done&amp;quot; as your S04 died in the alcohol and that you are tasting a lot of sweetness because of almost half of the residual fermentables are still there. Consider using a Champagne yeast when you re-pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T03:33:22.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25701" CreationDate="2021-10-19T04:09:26.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen these go up to 16%, but not 18.8%. Three options here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your hydrometer is off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You actually had very good yeast nutrition and managed to push it even higher (e.g. some Champagne yeasts have been reported to go up to almost 21% abv with a good yeast nutrition schedule)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming you did not heat up your must, you may have a wild yeast. It's unlikely that you would hit such a high abv on a wild yeast. Do a smell and taste test to see if it's overly sour or smells bad - that being said,  you may have just found a new good yeast strain :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T04:09:26.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25651" CreationDate="2021-10-19T04:16:04.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's actually fairly difficult for anything other than a strong magnet to mess up electronics - however a Tilt does not have magnetic storage as far as I am aware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's attached to the side of the battery - I wouldn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T04:16:04.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-19T08:49:59.807" Score="3" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing Kombucha for about two years. I tried growing a few Scobys in small jars to give to friends, but I noticed that the liquid in the jars, which should have been mature Kombucha an taste very sour was instead neither sour nor sweet.&#xA;The Scoby on top has grown but I am worried about the potential lack of acetic acid and how this affects the culture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19691" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T10:12:37.927" Title="Kombucha lacks vinegar taste" Tags="|kombucha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25743" CreationDate="2021-10-19T10:12:37.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the fermentation of Kombucha, yeast (a S. Cerevisae strain) turns sugar into alcohol, and a bacteria (an Acetobacter strain) oxidizes it into acetic acid (vinegar). There's more going on that just that, but these are the parts of the fermentation relevant to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have no acetic (vinegar) flavor, the oxidation of alcohol into acetic acid has not (sufficiently) occurred. This can be caused either by a shortage of oxygen in the liquid (if the SCOBY covers it completely and has grown very thick that might impede oxygenation) or by a microbial imbalance in the SCOBY (the acetobacter population is very low). The fact that you have no sweetness means the yeast has fermented the sugar in alcohol, but that's an anerobic process so it does leave open the possibility of oxygen deficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T10:12:37.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25737" CreationDate="2021-10-19T14:29:09.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sure &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like fermentation has happened to get that much sediment. Since you didn't take an initial gravity reading it's going to be hard to tell for sure but you can track if it is still &lt;em&gt;changing&lt;/em&gt; and as Lucas points out, you should be able to have a rough guess on initial OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agitating the the must might get the yeast going again. I'd possibly be inclined to get the temperature into the low 20s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T14:29:09.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25737" CreationDate="2021-10-19T17:51:31.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For any brew, if you think it might be stuck, &lt;strong&gt;watch the must, and watch the airlock&lt;/strong&gt;.  If you see any sign of bubbles rising, there's a chance that things are still plugging along.  That said, CO2 can take a while to dissipate, so the presence of bubbles is not a guarantee of continued yeast action.  A better measure, although it requires a bit more patience, is to &lt;strong&gt;take a gravity reading, wait a while&lt;/strong&gt; (at least several days, better yet a week or two), &lt;strong&gt;and take another reading.&lt;/strong&gt;  If there's no change, your brew is likely done fermenting (either because it's stalled, or because it's finished).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Lucas notes, &lt;strong&gt;which yeast you use is a key consideration.&lt;/strong&gt;  Different strains of yeast are engineered for different operating parameters.  Just from googling, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=%22s04%22+yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;it looks like S04 is an ale yeast&lt;/a&gt;.   Any beer-oriented yeast is likely to have a low alcohol tolerance, and thus will be ill suited to brewing meads and wines, which typically have higher alcohol levels than beers.  I bet your batch is &amp;quot;done&amp;quot;, in that the S04 has fermented itself to death.  To convert any more of that sugar to alcohol, you're going to need to pitch in a heartier strain of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had decent success using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=lalvin+ec-1118&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lalvin EC-1118&lt;/a&gt;, a champagne yeast, to brew my meads.  Champagne yeast tend to be engineered for higher alcohol tolerance, so they produce stronger and dryer meads and wines.  I've gotten as high as 18.3% ABV with low residual sugars (that one was a plum wine; my strongest straight mead so far finished up dry at 16.75%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another key consideration is that &lt;strong&gt;wines and meads take longer than beers&lt;/strong&gt;.  I've brewed ... I dunno, 50, 60 batches of mead over the years?  The only &amp;quot;quick&amp;quot; meads I ever did were in college beside the dorm room radiator, using bread yeast (I know, ick, but I was basically a kid at the time), and even those over-warm and nearly-nasty brews took two weeks.  Anything I've done that has actually tasted good, has taken at least three months.  On the outer edge of that timeframe, one particular batch using a markedly funky honey took nearly three years of aging to get tasty enough to where I'd be proud to offer it to friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be patient&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;use the right yeast&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastEditorUserId="17594" LastEditDate="2021-10-19T17:58:32.737" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T17:58:32.737" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-20T09:36:24.210" Score="0" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;My home grown grapes are coming along well this year, but I don't think I'll have quite  enough for a whole batch of wine (4.5l) and I'm not equipped to brew a smaller quanitity.  I do have a small bottle (150ml I think) of each of red and white grape concentrates - so how much juice would that replace?  These are Wilko brand, in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made a bit of country wine in the past, though not recently, but have never made any from grapes.  But I'd like to have a play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15588" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T11:43:36.680" Title="How concentrated is grape juice concentrate?" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-21T19:49:27.607" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a recipe of cream ale beer, do I use both the fast pitch and the Wyeast when brewing the beer? Does the fast pitch replace the sugar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19699" LastActivityDate="2021-10-23T01:32:17.883" Title="How to use fast pitch" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25750" CreationDate="2021-10-22T22:30:06.643" Score="2" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went ahead and tried one of Mangrove Jack's cider kits — the raspberry and mango one if anyone is interested. Shoved the fermentation bucket into the garage, and checked in after a couple of weeks. I noticed quite a bit of the infamous &lt;em&gt;rhino farts&lt;/em&gt;, which was unpleasant, and the SG was around 1.011. Realising that the temperatures were probably a bit low (nothing too extreme, around 17–18 degrees Celsius) for the yeast at this point, I moved it inside and left it for another week. Now, according the Mangrove Jack's website, FG should be 1.006 ± 0.002 for this cider, but it seems to have stalled at ~1.009, might be 1.010 (I find it's sometimes hard to read on the bloody hydrometer :P ), which feels somewhat high to me. I used dextrose together with the extracts, so I would have expected it to finish lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what do you guys think? Is it possible I'm getting low attenuation because of low initial temperatures (the sachet said 20–25 degrees Celcius, whoops!)? Maybe it's just varying degree of frementables in the syrup from Mangrove Jack's? Would you wait longer? Would you try repitching? Any input would be greatly appreciated! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18300" LastActivityDate="2021-10-23T01:28:06.487" Title="What do you do about high cider FG?" Tags="|cider|final-gravity|kits|fruit-extract|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25749" CreationDate="2021-10-23T01:28:06.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would probably let it sit another week. The FG only seems one point of from their range. Your temperature would have slowed fermentation but should not have killed it to be honest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldnt bother repitching yeast unless you intend to use a yeast with a much higher attenuation (eg champagne yeast) but that will also effectively dry out your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2021-10-23T01:28:06.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25748" CreationDate="2021-10-23T01:32:17.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fast Pitch is just canned worth with a bit of yeast nutrients. The idea is that you can use this as a pre-sterilised worth to make a starter with your liquid yeast before pitching it into the worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just takes away the trouble of having to use dme and boil it, cool it down, while making a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2021-10-23T01:32:17.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25676" CreationDate="2021-10-25T20:05:20.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very hard to predict &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what you will get, but simply mixing fruit and water is pretty much the basis of most brewing, historically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is only relatively recently that humans figured out what yeast &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; let alone started using it. Apples, grapes and other fruit contain 'wild' yeasts which is how fermentation used to be done - the question exactly &lt;em&gt;which&lt;/em&gt; yeast(s) you get make the process quite varied!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, some people still make cider and wine this way without adding any yeast at all. If the sugar levels in your 'must' are reasonable and you can prevent infection, you may well get a fermentation and an alcoholic beverage... of some sort!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2021-10-25T20:05:20.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25754" CreationDate="2021-10-25T20:54:04.543" Score="2" ViewCount="1655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gencowinemakers.com/docs/Wine%20Clarification%20and%20Stabilization.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that wines can be stabilized by &amp;quot;adding potassium sorbate just before the wine is bottled&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that &amp;quot;just before&amp;quot; in this context means a day or two later. But is it really necessary to bottle quickly after stabilizing with potassium sorbate? Can I not wait a month or two to bottle it? I am trying to understand why this article says &amp;quot;just before&amp;quot;, and whether this is truly important or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I need to know is that I only have occasional access to the brewery where I am making wines and would prefer to stabilize now, and then bottle in a couple of months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16553" LastActivityDate="2021-10-26T04:50:57.700" Title="After stabilizing a wine with potassium sorbate, do I need to bottle soon?" Tags="|potassium-sorbate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25753" CreationDate="2021-10-26T04:50:57.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Potassium sorbate &amp;quot;stabilizes&amp;quot; a wine by preventing the yeast from reproducing any further. The most common reason to add it is when you're backsweetening, since the addition of more fermentable sugars will cause any remaining yeast to restart the fermentation (with sometimes explosive results). If you do decide to backsweeten, adding potassium sorbate to a wine which still has yeast cells will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; prevent additional fermentation, but it will inhibit it. When you add it doesn't matter, as long as its after fermentation has finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not backsweetening, there's no need to add potassium sorbate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, you should add potassium metabisulfate (different than potassium sorbate!) or campden tablets before bottling; it will kill off any unwanted bacteria and help prevent unwanted oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19719" LastActivityDate="2021-10-26T04:50:57.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25756" CreationDate="2021-10-26T05:51:13.993" Score="2" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to fine my beer in the keg with gelatine. I read that there will be some trub that sinks to the bottom and will come out in the first few pints. Is this &amp;quot;trubbie&amp;quot; beer drinkable/representative of the rest of the keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastEditorUserId="12662" LastEditDate="2021-10-26T17:20:23.220" LastActivityDate="2021-11-05T21:30:27.997" Title="Fining beer with gelatine in the keg" Tags="|finings|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25755" CreationDate="2021-10-26T13:14:43.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's &amp;quot;drinkable&amp;quot; but you're drinking the stuff you went through effort to remove with gelatin. I'd recommend pouring it out. It won't hurt you although some folks say drinking lots of yeast makes them a bit..eh..gassy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer should clear up after the first few pints are poured off (2-4) and get clearer for a few days until it's nearly perfectly clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastEditorUserId="18396" LastEditDate="2021-10-28T12:14:11.477" LastActivityDate="2021-10-28T12:14:11.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25755" CreationDate="2021-10-26T17:23:06.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to find that with care, you don't get this crud coming out as long as your tap is an inch off the bottom. There might be some &lt;em&gt;in&lt;/em&gt; the tap the first time you pour any but I don't have issues otherwise. You don't want to be moving the keg!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be obvious if you are getting it, as the beer won't be clear. Maybe you drink that part yourself to get the keg 'ready for sharing' until it runs clear ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2021-10-26T17:23:06.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25747" CreationDate="2021-10-26T17:28:42.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will vary a lot. For instance one big difference between cheap, medium and expensive wine kits is how much liquid they give you i.e. how concentrated it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this is your product: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wilko.com/wilko-red-grape-juice-concentrate-250ml/p/0483794&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.wilko.com/wilko-red-grape-juice-concentrate-250ml/p/0483794&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Reviews seem to claim it's for up to 20L of wine which seems a little implausible to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in comments, a hydrometer is your friend. If you know what OG you are aiming for, you might be able to carefully add some of this to your must until you get the reading you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2021-10-26T17:28:42.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25759" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25760" CreationDate="2021-10-27T00:59:34.537" Score="3" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;To begin with, my &lt;em&gt;understanding&lt;/em&gt; of a &amp;quot;thin&amp;quot; mash is a mash that is more watered down than it &amp;quot;ought&amp;quot; to be; and that a &amp;quot;thick&amp;quot; mash is one that is not diluted with enough water. My &lt;em&gt;understanding&lt;/em&gt; of the grist ratio (water:grain ratio) is that it attempts to set a mash thickness/viscosity that is desirable, and I typically see it set in the range of 1.25 to 1.5 quarts per pound (qt/lb). Therefore I conclude that a &lt;em&gt;thin&lt;/em&gt; mash is one with a grist ratio north of 1.5 qt/lb and that a &lt;em&gt;thick&lt;/em&gt; mash is one with a grist ratio south of 1.25 qt/lb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If anything I have stated above is incorrect, please begin by correcting me!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I'm more or less correct: I've read that thicker mashes are better for beta amylase, since there is more substrate to bind to (which apparently it needs to work optimally), which to me, indicates thicker mashes (perhaps in the 1 - 1.25 qt/lb range?) are more conducive to higher mash efficiencies and starch conversion. However the overwhelming &amp;quot;pro&amp;quot; stated for thinner mashes is that &lt;em&gt;they&lt;/em&gt; allow for better efficiencies and conversion. So these two seem to conflict with one another, at least in my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what the pros/cons are of both a thin and thick mash, both at the &amp;quot;less extreme&amp;quot; ends of the spectrum (closer to the [1.25,1.5] range) as well as on the &amp;quot;far extreme&amp;quot; ends (so either super thin or super thick).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2021-10-27T09:58:53.717" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T09:58:53.717" Title="Thick vs thin mashes" Tags="|mash|amylase-enzymes|mash-thickness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25759" CreationDate="2021-10-27T09:53:30.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I am not aware of any firm definition for thin vs. thick mash, your estimates of 1.25 to 1.5 quarts per pound do seem close to the mark for an average range for most homebrewers.  For many years I have targeted an average ratio of about 1.3 qt/lb, with great results.  That being said, I do sometimes go as high as about 1.75 qt/lb, which is thin but not overly thin.  I do this for certain batches where I do not want to sparge but wish to experiment with a no-sparge batch.  There are some sources who have occasionally recommended ratios of 3 or even 4 qt/lb for various purposes -- now that is a thin mash!  But people have had success with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to beta and amylase and availability to convert the starches, etc., this is people will argue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many claim that a thicker mash results in a thicker beer, and vice-versa, and theoretically, this makes sense because in a thick mash, there is reduced capability for enzymes to move around in the mash, as there are too many other alien molecules like proteins, lipids, etc., in the way.  On the other hand... people who have experimented with very thick mashes sometimes will get normal conversion efficiency anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on the thin side, theoretically, to take things to an extreme, if you were to throw a sack of malt into an ocean of hot mash water, the enzymes will be so far apart that there will not be much conversion happening.  However, also, as I said, experimentally, some people have NOT found conversion to be a significant problem in ratios up to about 3 qt/lb or maybe even 4 qt/lb (which personally I have a harder and harder time believing).  Looking at things in this way, indeed, your 1.5 qt/lb or my 1.75 qt/lb really does NOT seem very thin at all.  So the definition for a &amp;quot;thin&amp;quot; mash is still up for debate.  And if we use a more reasonable ratio such as 1.75 qt/lb, theoretically, the enzymes will have sufficient space to move around (not so many alien molecules in the way), AND will bump into plenty of starches to work on converting to sugars, so the theory here is that conversion efficiency can be improved by thinning the mash, as compared with a thick mash of say 1-1.25 qt/lb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I think the pros of a &lt;strong&gt;thin&lt;/strong&gt; mash (to a certain point, anyway, which I'm not sure exactly where it is) are &lt;strong&gt;improved conversion efficiency&lt;/strong&gt;, and reduced need to sparge (like to make no-sparge batches), and/or for &lt;strong&gt;brewing in a bag (BIAB)&lt;/strong&gt; this might be an ideal way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the reasons a &lt;strong&gt;thick&lt;/strong&gt; mash might be recommended, and for which I myself still do them at ratios as small as 0.8-0.9 qt/lb, is for extremely &lt;strong&gt;high gravity&lt;/strong&gt; worts or high alcohol beers where I want to sparge with a LOT of water so that I can collect far more sugars out of the mash so that I can boil for an extra long time (often 2-3 hours or more) to concentrate it all down to a specific gravity of say 1.090 or higher without sacrificing efficiency.  Anyone who has tried to brew a 1.090+ beer with a non-adjusted mash and boil regimen has &amp;amp; will experience this phenomenon where you might expect an efficiency of say 75% but in the end you only end up with like 55% or in that ballpark.  But by sparging extra and boiling for a very long time, you can keep your efficiency at a perhaps-desirable 75% or more with these high gravity batches.  So this is the advantage of a thick mash here, that you can sparge more, AND are able to &lt;strong&gt;fit the whole mash into your mash tun&lt;/strong&gt;!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a homebrewer by name of Kai Troester who has experimented with hundreds of batches to gather scientific data to compare various mash parameters, and has shared his data and conclusions with us in the format of a &amp;quot;wiki&amp;quot; document.  I have not read all of this site in detail, but I suggest that you or anyone very interested in mash science should do so, link is here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Braukaiser.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Braukaiser.com&lt;/a&gt;.  Enjoy -- I hope you find the answers you seek which I do not all have stored in my own brain yet.  Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T09:53:30.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25765" CreationDate="2021-10-29T09:17:59.230" Score="0" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;em&gt;oak leaf and burdock&lt;/em&gt; wine that has gotten stuck at a SG of 1.024. The pH reads 2.76, so I suspect that the high acidity has caused it to get stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that dissolved CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; can cause a wine to be too acidic, so I'm wondering if I might be able to restart the fermentation by degassing the wine at this point, thus increasing the pH?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do however recall reading somewhere that degassing a wine before the end of fermentation is pointless as the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; will recover in a matter of minutes. Can anyone advise? I don't want to go ahead and try it if it would only risk oxidising the wine with no benefit. The backup plan is to add precipitated chalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16553" LastActivityDate="2021-11-03T09:28:27.353" Title="Can I degas to increase pH in a stuck fermentation?" Tags="|stuck-fermentation|acidity|degassing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25762" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-30T13:39:19.163" Score="3" ViewCount="350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to understand a little bit about science process between Fermentation (when sugar is turned into alcohol) and Priming (when fermentable sugar is turned into).&#xA;I have done several batches of cider now and notice that every time fermentation transforms all sugar in juice into alcohol making it Very dry. Therefor i was thinking of stopping fermentation process early when there is still some 20% of natural sugars left in juice, but the question is: If I stop the fermentation and there is still 20% of sugar will the sugar left not just be turned into Co2 in priming process and thus make the drink more carbonated but still fully dry?&#xA;I guess the bottom line is- is there a way to preserve natural sweetness and not turning it into alcohol in fermentation or Co2 in priming process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19740" LastActivityDate="2022-01-11T15:31:12.587" Title="If I stop fermentation early does the sugar left in juice still turns into Co2 after bottling" Tags="|fermentation|priming|sweetness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25762" CreationDate="2021-11-01T15:00:35.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Priming is really just another word for fermentation, sometimes called secondary fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you stop fermentation when 20% of sugar remains, you normally do this by killing the yeast. This means it will not ferment further in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand if you bottle it with 20% of the sugar left and some active yeast, you'll generally find fermentation continues. This typically leads to your bottles exploding! It is actually somewhat tricky to get a carbonated, but not fully fermented, product in basic homebrewing. You might try different yeasts but at least in my experience, this only slows things down. If sugar remains, it &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; eventually get fermented unless you pasteurise or ensure the temperature is kept low enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one reason that commercially, drinks are force-carbonated. They kill the yeast and stabilise the drink, then artificially carbonate it in the bottle using CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastEditorUserId="12662" LastEditDate="2022-01-11T15:31:12.587" LastActivityDate="2022-01-11T15:31:12.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25764" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25781" CreationDate="2021-11-03T00:52:18.010" Score="2" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out how Priming Sugar calculators work under the hood and just gave &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrewacademy.com/priming-sugar-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this illuminating article&lt;/a&gt; a read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of it makes sense, however the author talks about each different priming sugar having a different &amp;quot;yield rate&amp;quot; and I am wondering if that metric is the same as the &lt;strong&gt;Dry Yields&lt;/strong&gt; I see for each ingredient on &lt;a href=&quot;http://beersmith.com/grain-list/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BeerSmith&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, Honey is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beersmith.com/Grains/Grains/grain_43.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;listed on BeerSmith&lt;/a&gt; as having a Dry Yield of 75%. Does that mean, that if I calculate I need 4oz of corn sugar (which is 42 PPG @ 100% yield), I would need 5.894oz of Honey (168/38/0.75)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, then what is this &amp;quot;yield rate&amp;quot; and where can I find it for...&lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; priming sugar (!!!)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastActivityDate="2021-11-13T13:58:41.903" Title="Yield rates for priming sugar calculations" Tags="|priming|priming-sugar|calculations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25761" CreationDate="2021-11-03T09:28:27.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally it should be around ~3.2-3.5, so I would consider increasing the PH first as a start. Just degassing won't work I think. Aside from increasing the PH, you may need to add-in additional yeast nutrients, but I suggest doing it step-by-step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2021-11-03T09:28:27.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25767" CreationDate="2021-11-05T00:52:47.527" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had done some cursory digging online and found that at my elevation the boil evaporation loss was about 14% per hour. So to test this out I boiled 3785mL (1 gallon) of water for an hour in my brew kettle. If 14% is true, then I expected to be left with about 3221mL left (about 86%) at the end of the hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An hour later, I was left with 1300ml!!! So more like an evaporation rate of 66% when starting with 1 gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, being of little mind, I'm guessing evap rate is a function of starting volume. If so, does anyone know the formula to estimate evap rate (per hour, ideally) that takes initial volume into consideration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastActivityDate="2021-11-05T21:21:23.117" Title="Calculating boil evaporation loss as a function of pre-boil volume (PBV)?" Tags="|boil|water|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25766" CreationDate="2021-11-05T10:10:32.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/a/91996/199172&quot;&gt;this off of Physics.SE&lt;/a&gt;, and I'd be genuinely interested in what others here think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the consistent advice I've seen is to do just what @dmtaylor suggests: get to know your own boil kettle and tweak your recipes/plans accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two biggest factors contributing two boiloff rate that I could find are the diameter of the kettle (hence surface area exposed to the air) and the amount of heat transfer going into the kettle (boil &lt;em&gt;vigor&lt;/em&gt;). In the case of my super-simple stovetop setup, this computes to how &amp;quot;high&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;low&amp;quot; I have the dial set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I conducted trials. The constants in every trial I ran:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same 16-quart brew kettle used each time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same burner (I have different sized burners on my stove) used each time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lid placed in the same 7/8 position each time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dial turned to the MAX setting which produces a &lt;em&gt;violent&lt;/em&gt; boil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that changed was the volume of water I started with each time. In every case I hit more or less the same rate: 0.68 gallons per hour (GPH). There &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; some variation (which could have been chalked up to a million inconsistencies in my non-laboratory, kitchen-based &amp;quot;experiments&amp;quot;). But 0.68 GPH was the average. For that kettle, under those conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will also do this for whatever dial setting I need to maintain a smooth, rolling boil as well as a vigorous boil (there are differences in all of these, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcRrW0U5vwk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;apparently&lt;/a&gt;). All different amounts of heat transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, if I know I need a rolling boil, a vigorous boil, or a violent boil in that 16-quart kettle, on that burner, and with the lid placed at the 7/8 position, I will know what setting to place the dial at and I will know the boiloff rate in GPH to expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastEditorUserId="19425" LastEditDate="2021-11-05T10:42:52.493" LastActivityDate="2021-11-05T10:42:52.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-05T17:20:49.627" Score="2" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low/non alcohol beverages are probably more popular than ever before with most major brands and many craft brewers now selling products in this category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are ways to make low-ABV beverages quite easily, but what about reducing the alcohol after fermentation? Is this something that a typical home-brewer could achieve or does it require techniques and equipment that are realistically not feasible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2021-11-10T18:52:48.247" Title="Is removing alcohol to create low/non alcoholic wine/beer feasible for the home brewer?" Tags="|brewing|alcohol-content|low-abv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25769" CreationDate="2021-11-05T19:37:38.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how you would do that other than heating or boiling the liquid but this is going to substantially change the overall character of the beverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://oasas.ny.gov/news/alcohol-and-cooking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Data&lt;/a&gt; suggests heating an alcoholic beverage to a certain temperature, and holding it there for a given amount of time, reduces the ABV considerably. It does not entirely remove it however. So, this will get you close but not completely &amp;quot;NA&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible a chemical or enzymatic process exists but again, the beverage will most likely not be the same afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like &amp;quot;hoppy&amp;quot; beverages, Lagunitas makes a super tasty &amp;quot;hop water&amp;quot; which is NA. It's quite good considering it's only fizzy water and hops. Otherwise, a low ABV clone kit is going to be your next best option :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: For anyone interested, I was at the grocery store today and ran across the &lt;a href=&quot;https://lagunitas.com/beer/ipna/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lagunitas IPNA&lt;/a&gt;. ABV comes in under .5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastEditorUserId="18216" LastEditDate="2021-11-10T18:52:48.247" LastActivityDate="2021-11-10T18:52:48.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25766" CreationDate="2021-11-05T21:21:23.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, &amp;quot;dialing in our equipment&amp;quot; is important. Also, factor in the time of the year. By this I mean, for me in the Fall/Winter and part of the Spring it's very dry (humidity wise). In later Spring and Summer it's humid and I get different boil off rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17909" LastActivityDate="2021-11-05T21:21:23.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25755" CreationDate="2021-11-05T21:30:27.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend fining with geletin in the secondary for a few days (at cold temps) and then transferring to the keg. Must less trub poured. As an example, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 of the glass when the keg is tapped. Dump it and then drink clear homebrew until the keg is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17909" LastActivityDate="2021-11-05T21:30:27.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25645" CreationDate="2021-11-05T21:32:59.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like &amp;quot;yeast rafts&amp;quot; to me. In other words, normal fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17909" LastActivityDate="2021-11-05T21:32:59.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-06T04:57:40.493" Score="0" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just thinking about removing a gas tip tube to maximize headspace. What if I just slide its o-ring on the post? That should in theory keep the keg sealed.&#xA;What do you guys think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15560" LastActivityDate="2021-12-08T11:02:20.217" Title="Using corny keg without a gas dip tube" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25776" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-11-08T10:17:06.723" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="12662" LastEditorUserId="12662" LastEditDate="2021-11-08T10:17:06.723" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T10:17:06.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25777" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-11-08T10:17:06.723" Score="0" Body="Brewing low or non-alcoholic beverages. Accepted definitions vary but typically &quot;low alcohol&quot; means ABV of around 1% or less, while &quot;non-alcoholic&quot; commonly refers to an ABV of 0.5% or below." OwnerUserId="12662" LastEditorUserId="12662" LastEditDate="2021-11-08T10:17:06.723" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T10:17:06.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25775" CreationDate="2021-11-08T10:50:54.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not done it myself, but some people cut their dip tubes for various reasons. Sometimes the &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/13167/gas-in-dip-tube-is-missing-in-my-corny-keg&quot;&gt;gas&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/chopping-corny-keg-gas-dip-tubes.635824/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tube&lt;/a&gt; and sometimes the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/anyone-cut-the-dip-tube-on-their-corny-kegs.249586/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;liquid tube&lt;/a&gt;. Removing the gas tube entirely is likely to cause a gas leak . There is a small shoulder inside the post that pushes against the lip of the gas tube to &amp;quot;sandwich&amp;quot; the oring against the male keg post and the top of the dip tube. This is what keeps the gas in the keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're wanting to remove them due to concerns about beer being sucked back into the co2 tank, there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/search?search=check%20valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;check valves&lt;/a&gt; available which can be installed on the manifold or gas line to guard against low pressure issues. I think this would be the best remedy since it also protects your co2 equipment if you overfill the keg after altering the gas tube anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other reasons I've read about for cutting the tubes seem silly to me (more room for beer, less trub, oxygen blanket when purging) but that's just my opinion. I would vote that cutting is the better option than fully removing the gas tube however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T10:50:54.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1618" CreationDate="2021-11-09T14:10:44.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I probably should know better than to respond to an 12 year old thread, but here goes: it is my impression that the amount and type of organic acids produced in the fermentation of malt extract is different, and probably greater, than in the fermentation of an all-grain based wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I speculate that this might be related to malt minerals. Grains have a certain inherent buffering capacity which malt extract may lack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be interesting to do a back-to-back comparison and test the wort pH during and after fermentation, but for that one would need both the malt exact and the malt it is made from, which requires the co-operation of the extract manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-11-09T14:10:44.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1618" CreationDate="2021-11-09T18:50:20.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a new answer on here- what the hell- I'll post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience- what you're describing is typically a byproduct of old (oxidized) liquid malt extract. It gets a really cloying flavor due to oxidation, and typically won't ferment out to 1.010 clean. It becomes sweet, cloying, and has that twang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the posting of this question and now (what, 12 years!?) things have really changed. Better quality control in LME have made huge advances, but this is still a problem today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've worked in a homebrew shop long enough and can tell when brewers have brewed with old liquid malt extract- it's even very obvious based on color depending on what they steeped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still recommend extract brewers to folks use only DME as it's a bit more stable and ferments down to 1.010 more consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-11-09T18:50:20.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25764" CreationDate="2021-11-10T03:28:46.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term is a bit misleading as normally Dry Yield means that a solution is &amp;quot;dried&amp;quot; and subsequently as much sugar is extracted. Honey has about ~95% fermentables but also contains about 15~18% moisture. So if the Dry Yield is indicated as 75% it means that you are looking at the &amp;quot;raw ingredient&amp;quot; which also contains the moisture. While misleading this does make it easier for homebrewers as it makes the overall calculation easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dry yield is used to indicate the &amp;quot;efficiency&amp;quot; of extraction under ideal conditions (e.g. lab) conditions as compared to a 100% extraction of sucrose. Note that for grains this may vary between a homebrewer and a malthouse, because sugar extraction is more complex than just ... using sugar. But for honey/sugar there probably is not much difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to your formula, that's exactly correct. 1.168 would be your yield for solving 4 lb of corn sugar in 1 gallon of water. To get to 1.168 with raw honey (yielding 38 PPG with 75% efficiency) you would need 5.894 oz honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastEditorUserId="13095" LastEditDate="2021-11-13T13:58:41.903" LastActivityDate="2021-11-13T13:58:41.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-13T22:09:09.347" Score="0" ViewCount="314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a wine with some pretty green tasting sangiovese grapes. I did a MLF to help soften the taste but it's still pretty sharp to my palette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How will that sharpness change as the wine ages? Will it get more intense or less? Or will it stay exactly the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to decide if I need some acidity intervention at this point or of I should just see how it's going to turn out. This is only my second wine, so I'm lacking the hands on experience here. What's your experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18256" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T10:00:43.130" Title="Does wine acidity change during aging" Tags="|aging|red-wine|acidity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25786" CreationDate="2021-11-14T01:15:31.573" Score="2" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Please note:&lt;/strong&gt; my example here of a 80°L crystal malt was a &lt;em&gt;bad example&lt;/em&gt; since specialty malts have no diastatic power. However the same holds true for any base malt I looked for: I cannot find where their Linterns are listed &lt;em&gt;anywhere&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to calculate the diastatic power of my recipe which requires me to know the numerical &amp;quot;Lintners&amp;quot; rating of each grain in the bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I go to my local homebrew store and ask them what the Linters are of several different grains in their store. They have no clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I go to NorthernBrewer.com and look at the product details for several of their malts. They report the SRM, the Extract % and Moisture Content (so I can at least estimate PPG), but not the Lintners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ditto for MoreBeer.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my grains is Crystal 80°L, so I google &amp;quot;Breiss caramel 80l malt sheet&amp;quot; and get a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewingwithbriess.com/wp-content/uploads/documents/Briess-PISB-Caramel-Malt-80L.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sample malt analysis sheet&lt;/a&gt; from Breiss themselves and...nadda. No mention of Lintners. No mention of diastatic power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I ask: where the heck are we supposed to get this information from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastEditorUserId="19425" LastEditDate="2021-11-14T03:14:44.547" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T11:32:11.447" Title="Where do you find the degrees Lintner for a particular malt?" Tags="|mash|conversion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25783" CreationDate="2021-11-14T11:40:26.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are actually two things about the grapes. They can taste unripe (a green taste), and they can taste ripe but won't be sweet yet. I made several wines from my own grown and harvested grapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make wine from grapes which still taste unripe, you will get this taste in your wine. If you make wine from ripe, but not yet completely sweet grapes, you can make a nice wine from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The acidity comes from the cream of tartar acids. If you cold stabilize your wine, these will drop out of solution and the taste will improve. Take a month or six before you bottle them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are of course other tricks to deacidify wine, but I haven't used them. I haven't even measured the acidity with 'blue lye' (?) (sorry don't know the translation). Just press my grapes, ferment, rack into DJ's and keep a month or six in a cold place before bottling them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-11-14T11:40:26.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25784" CreationDate="2021-11-15T11:32:11.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://cervezomicon.files.wordpress.com/2017/08/briess_typicalanalysis_malts.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Briess Typical Analysis Sheet&lt;/a&gt; might be of help. It lists Lovibond and Lintner for several Briess malts. It is from 2017, not sure how much things change over the seasons. If you give 'em a bunch of info, it looks like they'll give you &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewingwithbriess.com/products/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;access to the latest one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's still not what your looking for, they have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewingwithbriess.com/contact/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Contact&lt;/a&gt; link where you could run the question up the wire and see if you get a response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T11:32:11.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-16T19:17:12.587" Score="1" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi this is my first batch of cider from pressed apples.  28 days in, and it’s cloudy, still tastes a bit sweet, 1.020 on hydrometer, put in some pectinase enzymes, and still a bit cloudy.  What should I do next?  Temp is 68 F.  Any info appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19786" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2021-11-17T02:27:01.893" LastActivityDate="2024-01-11T19:00:30.070" Title="Cloudiness in cider" Tags="|fermentation|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25787" CreationDate="2021-11-17T02:24:20.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Still sweet and still cloudy?  That means it is still fermenting.  Try to have patience.  It just needs another couple weeks, maybe 3 or 4 weeks at most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T02:24:20.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23660" CreationDate="2021-11-17T13:58:33.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is worth noting that juice yield will vary based on type and condition of the fruit. Apples lose moisture even when stored properly to the extent they can become quite wrinkled while still being usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once harvested apples very late in the season and by the time I processed them, the juice I obtained was more like thin syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to check the gravity of your juice in case you can simply add water to get back to a normal concentration - you may not be getting bad yield. If this is the case your cider is likely to be very very strong after fermentation!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T13:58:33.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-17T17:20:32.170" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;To preface, I have zero experience with homebrewing. I mainly am interested in these recipes specifically because they seem super simple and don't require any specialty equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enjoy watching youtube channels such as Tasting History or Townsends, where they explore recipes from history. Occasionally they will do an episode on meads or ginger beers or other various alcoholic beverages in history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfnHCdc3BgA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MAB-VVqjOE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For obvious reasons, these recipes often have a distinct lack of &lt;em&gt;sanitation&lt;/em&gt;. Or it will say something to the effect of &amp;quot;use a clean bottle&amp;quot; which I'm assuming just means boiled and not visibly dirty basically. This is in direct contrast with most modern homebrewing guides which are very adamant about making sure literally anything that touches the beer after the boiling process is thoroughly sanitized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there actually any considerable risk with following these recipes because of the lack of sanitation? Or since these old recipes are typically fermented for a short period of time &amp;amp; have low alcohol content is this relatively safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as a followup question, could it become more unsafe to drink over time? Like if I were to make ginger beer and let it sit in my fridge for several weeks or even a couple months, would I be better off just tossing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user19792" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T16:49:22.503" Title="Is there any potential risk in making beer/mead in the same way as it was done in historical recipes?" Tags="|mead|sanitation|ginger-beer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3858" CreationDate="2021-11-17T20:04:31.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually let the cider dry out to 0.990 and then sweeten it using an unfermentable sugar substitute (I prefer Erythritol). This way, I can also add prime sugar before bottling :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19793" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T20:04:31.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25790" CreationDate="2021-11-18T04:03:13.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately any fermentation is going to involve a sugary liquid sitting stagnant in a container for a number of weeks. most yeasts (especially the cheap ones) aren't going to kill off other microbes. Obviously I will also tell you: sanitize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as how much you can get away with slacking on sanitizing... You're probably not going to die. It's true that for millennia, mankind had no concept of microscopic life, and sanitation was a lot looser. Most of the time it was fine. I don't know if there have been studies, so I'm going to take a wild, unscientific guess here: doing your first gallon of mead in a cleaned-but-not-sanitized jug is probably not as likely to kill you as spending that money on cigarettes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but again: sanitize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2556" LastActivityDate="2021-11-18T04:03:13.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3858" CreationDate="2021-11-21T16:39:40.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, retaining sweetness means you have to prevent fermentation. If you want a carbonated product via bottle priming this is even harder because you need to stop fermentation at some point &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; bottling. The natural behaviour of yeast is to continue consuming sugar until either there's none left, or the yeast is poisoned by the alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You options typically include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stabilising your cider and force carbonating is how it's done commercially but this is a bit tricky.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding a non-fermentable sweetener... but as pointed out this has issues for some people and also seems a bit &amp;quot;fake&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pasteurization kills the yeast. Flavour issues aside (no idea) you need to know when to do it. You are bottling a &lt;em&gt;massively&lt;/em&gt; over-primed cider and have to stop it fermenting before it explodes, but after some priming has taken place. Plastic bottles allow you to gauge how carbonated it is getting. The pasteurization process is itself quite risky - I have had exploding bottles before.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold. If you can chill your cider once it gets to the right point, fermentation will cease. But you have to &lt;em&gt;keep&lt;/em&gt; it chilled. Any time it warms up, fermentation is liable to re-start. And even then, it may continue very slowly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T16:39:40.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25790" CreationDate="2021-11-21T16:42:07.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The big risk is probably not that you end up with something that is poisonous without realising, but that it simply spoils and your batch is ruined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mould or infection due to lack of sanitisation is typically quite obvious - you have a stinking slimy mess which you have to get rid of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you end up with something that looks, smells and tastes like cider or beer or mead or wine then it is likely safe to consume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T16:42:07.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25603" CreationDate="2021-11-21T16:46:05.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would re-bottle with carbonated water. One trick you can use is based on the fact that the amount of CO2 (or any gas) which can be dissolved in a liquid increases as it is chilled.&#xA;If you chill soda water to near zero, it will be visibly far less fizzy. You can pour it between vessels and lose little gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, simply storing it in a fridge should be sufficient as long as your new bottle has a good seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T16:46:05.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25783" CreationDate="2021-11-22T10:00:43.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wine acidity does not change much during aging, if at all (minor fluctuations might occur of +/- .05 pH).  The only other factor during aging that could affect acidity would be a spoilage organism leading to excessive Volatile Acidity and acetic acid production (e.g. the wine turning to vinegar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is important to note that the &lt;em&gt;perception&lt;/em&gt; of acidity of a wine can change as it ages because astringency (e.g. tannins) and acidity have a tendency to amplify each other in terms of &lt;em&gt;perceived acidity/astringency&lt;/em&gt;.  Therefore, higher tannins can make a wine taste more acidic (or vice-versa). As the wine ages and tannins soften, complex, and eventually precipitate out of a wine, the perceived acidity might become lower and leading the wine to taste 'softer'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While cold stabilization can have an affect on wine TA / pH, it is usually quite minimal unless the wine is very high or low in TA / pH.  Common professional practice with overly acidic wine is to adjust pH with KHCO3 (Potassium bicarbonate). However, this is only good for minor adjustments.  Too much KHCO3 can lead to a wine tasting soapy or even salty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19798" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T10:00:43.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-22T10:41:32.933" Score="1" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed a 5.2% porter using WLP007. Half a Protafloc tablet near end of boil. After bottling I swirled bucket with about 2.5.litres of cooled boiled water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what it looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQff4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQff4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't perceive what is healthy yeast. Should I just bin it and buy another pack of yeast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19799" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T14:35:39.817" Title="Harvesting yeast question" Tags="|yeast|harvest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25797" CreationDate="2021-11-22T14:35:39.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put it in the fridge and let it settle a bit, after a few hours (maybe 12) or so you should eventually see layers, with a cream colored cake on the bottom which will be your yeast. It's a little tricker with darker beers as the colors seem to be closer together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While IMO you'll always be better off using a fresh pitch (+ starter) to make sure you've got healthy yeast, harvesting yeast typically does work well and saves you the ~8USD for the WLP. I usually recommend to harvest off more neutral beers, or use the washed yeast on a similar profile beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T14:35:39.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-22T19:42:41.187" Score="2" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 10 days after transferring a cider to secondary, it developed a faint diacetyl aroma.  I moved it to a warmer location (~70degF) for a few days for a diacetyl rest, but the smell is now more pronounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering the following next steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it is from bacteria, I am considering shocking it with campden and adding fresh yeast and a little sugar to allow the yeast to metabolize the diacetyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it is from the yeast, I will give it more time unless there are other recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Toss it if it is beyond repair.  Diacetyl is the dominant aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast: Lalvin D 47&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG: 1.045&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cider: Pasteurized&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temp: 60 to 65degF&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two other batches started at the same time and temperatures but with different yeast (Nottingham Ale and Mangrove Jack M02) have not developed the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19800" LastActivityDate="2021-11-23T02:04:06.060" Title="How to do I mitigate diacetyl in cider that developed during secondary fermentation?" Tags="|cider|contamination|secondary|diacetyl-rest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-22T22:59:40.073" Score="1" ViewCount="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been a (grape) home wine maker for 7 years.  Every year, I put my wine in non-permeable stainless steel kegs and leave it there for the next 12 months.  I rack it 2-3 times to clean the lees of the bottom.  And then I bottle it, right before the next harvest.  This is pretty standard stuff, I imagine many many others adhere to a similar protocol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m looking to upgrade my winemaking, and age in an oak barrel.  Of course, everybody knows, you’ll get better quality aging in oak, rather than the non-permeable steel; you get the oak flavor that gets imparted, but you also get the microoxidation, which really cannot be replicated in steel (or glass).  My question: what is an appropriate schedule for oak barrel usage in the next few years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a home winemaker, I have restrictions that the big wineries do not.  I can’t have a fleet of new and neutral barrels, shuffling wine around as the taste permits.  And, I know that once you have a barrel, it’s optimal to keep it full of liquid all the time.  I’ll have one 60 gallon barrel, and once the wine is in there, it’s pretty much stuck there until I have something next year to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now (November) I think would be a bad time to put the recent harvest’s wine in a new barrel.  I’ll have no new wine for 11 months (next October), and wine in a new barrel for 11 months would be waaaaay over oaked (I think???).  So I think I let it sit in my stainless steel kegs for a few months, then move it to a barrel so that it won’t be over oaked by the time I’m able to replace it.  But if I replace it in October 2022, can that wine be in the barrel for 12 months until the next harvest, or is 12 months in a “second run” barrel too much?  Etc etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I’m looking for some advice: Year 1 put wine in a new barrel for X months.  Year 2 put wine in that barrel for Y months.  Year 3 put wine in that barrel for Z months.  Etc etc etc.  Can somebody offer guidance here?  (And yes, this is for a full sized 60 gallon wine barrel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3341" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T22:59:40.073" Title="Oak Barrel Schedule" Tags="|wine|barrel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25799" CreationDate="2021-11-23T02:04:06.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diacetyl is a normal part of most fermentations.  Nice thing is that yeast will eat it.  The yeast just needs time.  Give it 3-4 weeks of age, and the diacetyl should be cleaned up.  No fancy actions are needed, just patience.  If 4 weeks doesn't do it, wait a couple more weeks.  Keep the cider at a reasonable temperature, upper 50s to 70 F will work just fine.  When the diacetyl disappears, enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2021-11-23T02:04:06.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22407" CreationDate="2021-12-01T05:17:29.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My information has the boiling temperature at 144 degrees F. Heating your distillate to 144 will boil the methanol and tend to slow heat rise until it has finished  evaporating and before the evaporating temperature of ethanal. This is basically what happens with every still run that I've watched on moonshiners. If methanal doesn't evaporate first how is it always first out of the still. This is how they removed the methanol on the only freeze distillation show moonshiners did in 2021.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19815" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T05:17:29.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25747" CreationDate="2021-12-01T11:43:36.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have enough information to make a rough estimate.  It would have been better had I measured one more factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've now pressed the grapes, added the concentrate and some sugar (I'm aiming for about 13-14% so will add more sugar in stages). I ended up with about 4.5kg of grapes including skin and pips - I'm making red so they're still in there.  Pressed, the juice only had 1.05 SG.  Adding 2 bottles of concentrate, (1 red, 1 white) bright the SG up to almost 1.08, and I've now added my yeast.  The concentrate was syrupy in consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means the concentrate brought in a lot of sugar. I'll only do a rough calculation here, with lots of rounding It's off the top of the SG charts I've found for juice (fructose), would have been off the bottom of my hydrometer, and I didn't think to weigh a known volume.  It would appear that 500ml of concentrate delivered  about 400g of sugar.  Guessing at about 1100 SG as typical for a sweetish grape juice and going back to the tables, each 250ml bottle muse be equivalent to about 1 litre of juice, i.e. 4x concentrated.  There's a lot of rounding in there, and quite a few big assumptions, one of which is that it really is just juice with water removed, but that I think can be justified from the label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15588" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T11:43:36.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25821" CreationDate="2021-12-01T14:36:42.680" Score="0" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add fruit juice into my primary fermenter, but preferably want to do this with minimal splashing. Does anyone have any good technique or tips for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T07:02:57.067" Title="How to add fruit juice without splashing" Tags="|sour|fruit-extract|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22407" CreationDate="2021-12-01T20:00:47.130" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are making is Apple Jack. Because you are freeze distilling all the bad stuff that you remove from first runs of your boil remains. What you end up with is the most treacherous alcohol known to man. Apple Jack goes down smooth. It is amazing on its own, it is nice with soda water or some sparkling apple juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to drink it like rich people drin cognac because you are going to want to keep drinking it but if you do it is going to hurt you. I don't lie when I say the hangover you get from this is bad... There is a reason why the hangover you get from this is called apple palsy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T20:00:47.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25809" CreationDate="2021-12-01T23:38:11.210" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;i just got my brand new Air Still Kit . the kit include Pure Turbo Yeast and from what i read the manufacture of Air Still advice to only use this Yeast when distilling with Air Still .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the problem is this isn't Clean yeast really . I'm planing to use Lutra Kveik Yeast . from my experience with Lutra this is actually the cleanest yeast i have ever found&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;since we are using pot still basically it's important for me to have a very clean fermentation in order to have clean distillation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you think about changing Yeast for those who have experience with Air Still ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19819" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T11:01:21.913" Title="Air Still and Pure Turbo Yeast" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25808" CreationDate="2021-12-02T11:01:21.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, we don't talk about distilling here (see guidelines), but indeed, we can talk about fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I think is mostly necessary is that you use a yeast which finishes fermentation and then flocculates out quickly so as to leave not much yeast in your fermented liquid. I think that a kveik yeast fits the bill, these normally ferment out fast and deep, and flocculate quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also see in the instructions that after fermentation a fining is done with Turbo Clear, so really, you can use any yeast you want. They would like mostly to sell fermentation kits. And you can buy Turbo Clear separately, so you do not need to purchase their fermentation kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T11:01:21.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2637" CreationDate="2021-12-03T10:05:29.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have shaken my fermenting carboy (before racking time) and it does release a lot of CO2 bubbles. But I use a blow off tube (so the system doesn't allow for additional air to enter). Since the tube is in the sanitizer water. I have done this before and it seems to speed up the brew and didn't effect the taste as far as I could tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19824" LastActivityDate="2021-12-03T10:05:29.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-03T10:57:25.367" Score="3" ViewCount="2443" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first attempt at making limoncello. I used peel from 6 lemons to 700ml vodka, 250g caster sugar, 150ml water. After dissolving the sugar in the water I added the peel and simmered for 15mins, then removed from the heat and added the lemon juice from all 6 lemons. Whilst still slightly warm I added the vodka and poured into a sterilised container and left for about 10 days before straining and pouring into sterilised bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19826" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T07:14:37.577" Title="Why has my homemade limoncello got a cloudy residue at the bottom?" Tags="|sediment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25119" CreationDate="2021-12-08T13:10:41.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been brewing Kombucha for 2 years now and have never had anything like that on my Scoby. I’d dump it and not take any chances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19844" LastActivityDate="2021-12-08T13:10:41.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4178" CreationDate="2021-12-10T22:35:15.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After extensive research, I've finally found the &amp;quot;missing ingredient&amp;quot;. All along I thought it had something to do with the malts used, but it's not exactly that, although malts are important (try using Barke's Pilsner malt). The most distinctive ingredient in many German beers, and which affects the flavour of the malt, is - sauergut. It's like acid malt, but has much more flavour. Using acid malt won't get you there, but using sauergut will. Sauergut takes about 3-5 days to make. It has a somewhat sour, orange-like flavour. Now that I know the flavour, I can easily detect it in many German beers. Hacker-Schorr is a perfect example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19684" LastActivityDate="2021-12-10T22:35:15.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2021-12-13T11:30:38.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of conflicting info in there. But the fact of the matter is you can brew with white table sugar and turbo&#xA;yeast. I am opening a distillery and can attest to the fact that white sugar works just as well as dextrose. But the taste of the product before distillation is night and day different. Can anyone out there tell us why fermented sucrose tastes like apple cider and dextrose is delightful, even like white wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19854" LastActivityDate="2021-12-13T11:30:38.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25811" CreationDate="2021-12-13T17:54:01.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made 4 or 5 Limoncello (Lemon and also Lime based) batches and every one of them has been hazy. The last one has (or had until I skimmed it) a layer of oily flotsam - I did taste it - bitter an oily - I am guessing I got waxed lemons by mistake - but it didn't ruin the the actual liquor. The haziness always sets in when I add the lemon juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to add the sugar or honey to the spirit and then add the finely pared skins (not taking the pith). Then juice the lemons and freeze. Turn the jar every time you are near it, don't shake. At around 5 days, when the sugar is dissolved and the oils extracted, defrost and add the juice, strain the lot into bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shop bought Limoncello (at least the ones I have access to) are generally hazy too. I wouldn't worry unless it tastes &amp;quot;off&amp;quot;. If it is full-on roiling clouds - it is probably bits from squeezing the lemon. Let it sink and decant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19856" LastEditorUserId="19856" LastEditDate="2021-12-16T14:25:21.783" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T14:25:21.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25357" CreationDate="2021-12-18T08:56:25.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably something like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CCrfp8ha9Dw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CCrfp8ha9Dw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You unscrew it a little to let gas go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19864" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T08:56:25.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25817" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25818" CreationDate="2021-12-18T23:00:09.093" Score="1" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned my yeast be dead or stalled, and I'm sure some experienced person can give me some feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first batch of homemade wine.  As my first batch, I wanted to do something very simple, so I followed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/58561/homemade-wine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this recipe&lt;/a&gt;, with a few small modifications, which uses frozen grape juice concentrate.  Obviously, I don't expect world class wine out of this, but the reviews where largely positive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading some comments on the recipe and other guides I did the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dissolved my sugar in water and let cool to room temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prepped my yeast with a bit of warm water and sugar for 20 minutes (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0883G4C58&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;using this yeast&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the sugar water, yeast, and 2 12 oz cans of grape juice concentrate into a 1 gallon carboy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I rubber banded a coffee filter over the carboy, and let it ferment for 6 days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I put the coffee filter on, I put a double bubble airlock on until the fermentation started (which took less than an hour and this was bubbling nicely).  I've checked it every day for 6 days, and I could see bubbles rising up and foaming at the surface, so I know fermentation has been going well.  Today it appeared to have slowed down, so I removed the coffee filter and  siphoned the wine off the lees into a clean carboy.  I added maybe a cup of water because I left a little behind when siphoning and I wanted to make sure I had a gallon.  I put a double bubble airlock on, but so far it isn't bubbling at all.  Now, I intend to let it do its secondary fermentation for 4 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I still on track (such as it is), or do you think my yeast is stalled or dead?  I know the yeast isn't as active in secondary fermentation, but I expected &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; visible activity.  If I'm off track, is there anything I can do to get back on?  I'm not sure exactly what to expect at this point.  Thank you for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19867" LastActivityDate="2021-12-19T12:11:18.577" Title="Is my yeast dead or stuck or just fine?" Tags="|fermentation|wine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25817" CreationDate="2021-12-19T12:11:18.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably should point out that activity like bubbles in the airlock doesn't always equate to active feremenation. In fact, it should be only be regarded as a suggestion that active fermentation may be happening. Depending on temperature, strain, available sugars and other factors, yeast can be working away and you may see very little bubbling in the airlock. Also, leaky fermenters can &amp;quot;lie&amp;quot; when using this as a metric too. The best way to tell if ferementation is happening is to pull a sample and check the gravity. If it hasn't changed in a few days, it's likely done. If it's changed a little, it's still working away.  Again, some yeasts will take a looonnnng time to get to finishing gravity. I'm a beer and cider brewer and have had some brews take two weeks during primary fermentation to finally finish out. Depending on factors mentioned above, i've read it can take longer in some instances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary fermentation, if the same for wine as in beer and cider, is not the same process as Primary. Secondary is a process of aging and conditioning to bring out aromas and flavor. You won't see a lot of visible activity but science is indeed happening, just at a scale we humans aren't used to noticing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would sanitize a Wine Thief or turkey baster and check gravity with a hydrometer or refractometer. If using a refractomer, while you're waiting around for secondary, read up on refractometer calibration and how it needs to be adjusted once alcohol is present to get a more accurate reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your wine is fine. If you poured in un-sanitized tap water to top off, I would recommend boling or pastuerize it in the microwave next time and allow it to cool to room temp with some plastic wrap over it. Otherwise, this can introduce infections/bacteria into the brew. Since you did it so late in the process, it's likely there was enough alcohol created already that any pathogens weren't able to take hold but just be aware. Always santize everything you possibly can before adding to your brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2021-12-19T12:11:18.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-22T01:15:11.053" Score="1" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I usually make small 2.5-gallon batches, I just put my brew kettle into an ice bath in my kitchen sink to chill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The notes that came with my extract kit say to cool the wort to 70 degrees &amp;quot;as fast as possible to prevent an infection.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how fast specifically should that be? Using the ice bath method and continually adding ice as the old ice melts still takes about 30 - 40 minutes to get from boiling to the target 70 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that length of time going to be bad for the brew, or is it fast enough? Am I doing something wrong if it takes me that long?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13679" LastActivityDate="2021-12-25T17:13:38.497" Title="How fast should wort be chilled?" Tags="|wort|wort-chiller|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-22T03:11:24.620" Score="3" ViewCount="1058" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first try at making cider. I had great results from fermentation. I was short of some things like a hrdometer so it was reacted off into 2 car boys and sealed with airlocks stored in a dark place with a very constant temperature +/- 3 degs. For 3 years. It is a nice clear amber color. What SG should I be looking for or reading my new toy refactor meter Opinions Please ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19874" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T18:02:45.007" Title="Can cider go bad?" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25806" CreationDate="2021-12-22T07:02:57.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is really just to avoid splashes then just a funnel angled to one side while also angling the fermenter slightly, that would make the juice run smoothly down the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is to avoid any oxidation then I'd suggest an auto siphon and some tubing so air contact can be avoided all together.&#xA;A less ideal version, using the same principle, would be using a turkey baster or syringe (possibly also with tubing attached, depending on the fermenters size).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are still doing primary fermentation there should be a lot of CO2 and other heavy gasses in your fermenter, so oxidation shouldn't really be a big concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T07:02:57.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25811" CreationDate="2021-12-22T07:14:37.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is just lemon particles falling out of suspension. These things take time and the particles are too small to easily filter out, so next time just leave the whole thing in your big container until the Limoncello has cleared up a bit, that way your bottles will look nicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may take a very long time to completely get all the particles out of suspension, so you may want to consider how much effort you want to put into this. You should of cause give it a try and wait as long as your comfortable with, but I've had home made wines that looked clear, and even after half a year of waiting to bottle there was still some particles coming out of suspension and giving my bottles a super thin layer of sediment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T07:14:37.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25820" CreationDate="2021-12-22T07:38:30.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First to answer the title of your question. Yes cider can certainly go bad! It will go bad the same way as other wines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the alcohol is below an ABV of ~12% then oxygen can activate acetobacters which will turn your brew into vinegar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any contamination from bacteria (e.g. if you stirred the cider with an unsanitized spoon) can of course cause problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily spoiled brews almost always taste extremely awful, so you'd never be in doubt if your brew has been spoiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SG is starting gravity, so it seems a bit late for your 3 year old brew. But given the typical ABV of ciders I'd say a typical SG would be in the range of 1.040-1.070; that would give you an ABV of 5-9% if all the sugars fermented out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note to remember regarding refractometers is that they are nice and easy to use with SG, but when there is alcohol in the solution you need to do some calculation on your reading to get the true value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-12-22T18:02:24.867" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T18:02:24.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25819" CreationDate="2021-12-22T08:18:33.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't cool with forced cooling, make sure that your brew kettle is covered adequately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started out the same way as you, small brew kettle in the kitchen sink, using ice and water from the faucet. Later on I used a spiral cooler. Now I cover my brew kettle with the lid and a heat proof plastic bag sealed well (when still hot) and let it cool overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contamination (not infection) is very unlikely if you work clean, and in a clean environment. A clean environment is: not dusty, and no fruit flies in the vicinity. Wash your hands and disinfect the tools that you use and could come in contact with the wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T08:18:33.293" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25819" CreationDate="2021-12-22T10:36:46.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several reasons why wort should be chilled as quickly as possible. One is to get through the &amp;quot;danger zone&amp;quot; between anti-microbially hot and cold as quickly as possible. The other is to promote &amp;quot;cold break&amp;quot; which is the settling out of proteins and other compounds during chilling. The quicker you chill, the better the cold break and, generally, the clearer the beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &amp;quot;as quickly as possible&amp;quot; is just that. If you don't have plate chillers and refrigerated glycol below freezing point (which is what commercial breweries use) you use whatever you have. A reflux chiller with refrigerated water is better than an immersion chiller with unrefrigerated tap water, but that in turn is still a lot better than letting the wort cool down naturally overnight. Putting your brewing pot into a tub of water orice is also a lot better than nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb is indeed &amp;quot;the quicker the better&amp;quot; but there is no hard-and-fast rule on how quickly the wort MUST be chilled in order not to ruin your beer. So do the best you can, and only if the results are disappointing (microbial infection, chill haze or other defects related to chilling problems) upgrade to something more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T10:36:46.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2021-12-22T11:10:13.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One point to keep in mind is that different yeasts handle different sugars differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, wine yeasts are better with fruit sugars but deal less well with malt sugars, while beer yeasts may struggle with fruit sugars but just love malt sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the context of &amp;quot;brewing sugars&amp;quot;, we generally look at sucrose (a.k.a table sugar, which is a di-saccharide) vs. dextrose (a.k.a. corn sugar) or glucose.  The latter are both mono-saccharides or simple sugars which the yeast absorbs and metabolizes directly. Most beer yeasts, by and large, handle dextrose better than most wine yeasts do, while both just love glucose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast cannot directly absorb an metabolize di-saccharides such as sucrose. Before yeast can ferment sucrose it has to break down that sucrose into a mixture of glucose and fructose. This mixture is known as invert sugar, and you can invert sucrose yourself prior to fermentation by boiling it in water with a little citric acid. See Google for details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most wine yeasts handle sucrose well without producing any off flavors. Most beer yeasts, on the other hand, don't really like sucrose and may produce a cider-like flavor and an aroma reminiscent of green apple or freshly stripped tree bark (due to a substance called acetaldehyde being produced in fermentation) in the presence of high levels of sucrose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are exceptions. Belgian ale yeasts, for example, handle sucrose a lot better than other beer yeasts do, due to the fact that Belgian strains often have a certain amount of wine yeast in their ancestry. Belgian strong ales are traditionally brewed with a certain amount of sucrose in order to improve wort fermentability. Note that clear Belgian candi sugar is plain old sucrose, while the brown candi has been (partially, mostly or entirely) inverted and somewhat caramelized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T11:10:13.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25820" CreationDate="2021-12-22T14:55:28.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measuring specific gravity can tell you when fermentation has finished, but after several years you can already be quite confident that it has! SG measurements are of no use at all in determining if the product is safe to drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that cider is quite low pH and contains a fair amount of alcohol, so it's not friendly to many pathogens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the airlock ran dry, allowing significant oxygen ingress, you will likely find the product has undergone another fermentation process and turned to vinegar. An aerobic (oxygen-requiring) family of microbes called &lt;em&gt;Acetobacter&lt;/em&gt; will convert ethanol to acetic acid if enough oxygen is present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the product has escaped oxygen ingress, has dropped clear, and doesn't have have a pellicle on the surface or any sign of mould, it is quite likely to be OK. Probably somewhat oxygen damaged as an airlock and bung are not 100% effective at excluding permeation, but drinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the product had been stored in glass carboys with a proper lid I would be very confident that it would be in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best tool here is your nose, and if your nose leaves you confident, your sense of taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19878" LastEditorUserId="16378" LastEditDate="2021-12-22T18:02:45.007" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T18:02:45.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25787" CreationDate="2021-12-22T16:01:37.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cloudy and sweet tells you next to nothing. Your gravity reading is where you should be focusing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is slightly sweet because of the residual sugars, but that does not tell you whether the yeast is done converting those sugars. As for it being cloudy, that means zero in relation to how far your brew is! Some types of apples will basically leave particles in suspension forever, so it will never clear!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to do is take another gravity reading a week after and if nothing has changed then your fermentation has stopped. If the reading did change then you just wait a little and do 2 readings a week apart again. Once you get 2 identical readings you know fermentation has stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the haziness then you can't really do much if the pectinase doesn't make it clear up. Only thing you can do is wait, time will clear most brews, though sometimes it can take many months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T16:01:37.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25831" CreationDate="2021-12-22T16:43:06.597" Score="1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that adding sugar increases the boiling point of water, but by how much? Searched the web and can't find an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reason for asking is that a food grade Nylon 66 component I'm considering using in a BK is rated up to 110°C. Initially I thought that would give an adequate safety margin, but now wondering how hot sweet wort might get. I tend not to go bigger than SG 1.100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, assume the BK is at sea level and the wort gravity is due to the addition of maltose alone (or, if it makes any difference, I guess sucrose would be fine for an approximation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1408" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T18:14:41.767" Title="What is the relationship between specific gravity and boiling point?" Tags="|specific-gravity|boil-kettle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25790" CreationDate="2021-12-22T16:49:22.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, most brews will probably do just fine if you just clean your equipment the best you can. That was how they used to do it and it does work quite okay. I am sure they also found clever ways to optimize the cleaning, like eg scolding their stuff with boiling water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spoiled brews are not really a danger since you can almost always see or smell it very easily if something has gone wrong. E.g. if it has turned to vinegar, you'll smell it, and if bacteria infected your brew you'll see mold and other crap in your product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real reason why everyone keeps harping on with the sanitize, sanitize, sanitize mantra is because unless you're making a sugar wash then you'll invest time, materials, and energy into making your brew, and it REALLY sucks if it fails. Of cause if you're making a decent amount of e.g. mead you'd also be out the cost of a all that honey, not a cheap failure!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So really, there is nothing different about those old recipes, they also tried their best to keep things clean cause they realized it yielded better results!&#xA;Sure, we have super convenient sanitizers now, but most of those could be replaced by more work and boiling water, like in the old days :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T16:49:22.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25829" CreationDate="2021-12-22T17:03:16.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine with your nylon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://socratic.org/questions/what-is-the-boiling-point-of-sugar-solution-at-atmospheric-pressure-how-do-we-ca&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this boiling point explanation&lt;/a&gt; where the boiling point is raised by 2.8 C, you'd need a SG of over 1.350 (round number, but I think the point is clear) to even raise the boiling point by 3 degree C!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally think the physics in the linked example is hard to understand, but suffice to say that if you keep your SG at around 1.100 then your boiling point will be less than 102 C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastEditorUserId="17068" LastEditDate="2021-12-22T18:14:41.767" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T18:14:41.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25701" CreationDate="2021-12-22T17:12:06.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very likely just a happy accident!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You already pitched your yeast with go firm so there should be a decent colony when you added it to your must. So I do not think it is a wild yeast (they anyway usually do much lower fermentations, not crazy high ones)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is important to remember that yeast can't read, so they don't know when they should stop working, so even if you always use the same yeast the yeast may sometimes just be extra active :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a chance that your brew might have had a big enough temp difference between your OG and SG reading, to change the result by several points!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T17:12:06.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-23T02:44:41.207" Score="2" ViewCount="1625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that we should add campden before bottling wine. My question is, I need to add it 1 day prior to bottling or can I add campden and bottle right away. I am afraid of cork popping because if I remember correctly campden may release some gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A) Add Campden and bootling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B) Add Campden, wait 24h, and bootling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18358" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T13:18:30.193" Title="Add campden and bottle right away or should I wait?" Tags="|bottling|wine|campden|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25833" CreationDate="2021-12-23T13:08:19.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;should add campden tablets before bottling wine&amp;quot; might be a bit of an exaggeration, though they can be beneficial in case you want an extra insurance that nothing will go wrong while your wine ages in bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add the tablets as little as 30 minutes before you bottle. I wouldn't do it too long before bottling though, as that could also allow bad stuff to potentially re-enter your brew before bottling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastActivityDate="2021-12-23T13:08:19.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25819" CreationDate="2021-12-25T17:13:38.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been brewing for over 10 years and I always just let the hot wort cool on the kitchen counter over night. The key is to close the fermenting bucket (and out an airlock in) so that nothing gets in. As a side effect the hot liquid also kills any bacteria that might have gotten in the bucket before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2021-12-25T17:13:38.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25024" CreationDate="2021-12-26T15:27:25.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering all the methods you have already tried I'd consider using pectinase to break down the fruit before you press or spin the juice out, that should give you at least a bit more juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiling the fruit before trying to get the juice should also help break down the fruit a bit more and allow more juice to be collected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried a tiered approach? Like a sieve first, then spinning, and finally using your press?&#xA;I'd try something like that to get as much of the liquid out first, then let the solids settle out and racking off the pure juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T15:27:25.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13194" CreationDate="2021-12-27T00:22:45.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OG value is not the problem. You have to understand that Altbier is fermented at lower temperatures. That's what the style requires. Deviations are not allowed. Altbier is a mixture of ale and lager and you absolutely need 16°C or less to get the appropriate flavour. It is one of the most difficult styles of all, as everything has to be balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder about this: normally an Altbier yeast like WLP036 Düsseldorf should also work in its low temperature range; 18-21°C is for Ale, but normally a yeast like W165 from Weihenstephan is intended for 16-18°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe White Labs forgot the additional specification on it? I have sent a message to WLP but have not received an answer yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19886" LastActivityDate="2021-12-27T00:22:45.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25652" CreationDate="2022-01-02T19:34:24.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer is that you can't know when or if they'd explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had taken a gravity reading before bottling you could have calculated how much sugar was left and deferred to the many guides that help you determine how much sugar to add for bottle carbonation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the bottles are in the fridge you are right that they never truly stop fermenting, but the yeasts are pretty close to dormant! So even a month is not going to change a whole lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they are still fine now you could simply pasteurize them, that way you've contained the danger of future bombs. That would kill the beneficial live things in the ginger beer though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a few times when I did not drink my ginger beer quickly and got slightly nervous. In those cases I just slightly move the metal 'swing' while holding down the top with my hand. This way I can in a controlled manner let out a little bit of the pressure without risking to have a flat ginger beer later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastActivityDate="2022-01-02T19:34:24.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25841" CreationDate="2022-01-04T04:02:18.907" Score="2" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been doing research about making alcohol, and I can't find much involving how much alcohol wild yeast can produce before stopping. I'm just wanting to make pure alcohol and vinegar for chemistry reasons, so I'm not worried about taste. I want to use wild yeast more or less because I want to be able to do it that way. If you have one, please give me a source. Thanks for any help in advance. Also on a side note, is this a good resource for telling me how much sugar for a percentage of alcohol for a certain volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.distilling-spirits.com/tools/calculations/sugar-alcohol-conversion/?trigger=apv&amp;amp;oec=17.12&amp;amp;kmw=3.52&amp;amp;bri=4.03&amp;amp;zgl=40.98&amp;amp;apg=1.59&amp;amp;agl=15.83&amp;amp;apv=1&amp;amp;proof=4.00#result&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.distilling-spirits.com/tools/calculations/sugar-alcohol-conversion/?trigger=apv&amp;amp;oec=17.12&amp;amp;kmw=3.52&amp;amp;bri=4.03&amp;amp;zgl=40.98&amp;amp;apg=1.59&amp;amp;agl=15.83&amp;amp;apv=1&amp;amp;proof=4.00#result&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19896" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T15:47:17.267" Title="What abv can you get with wild yeast?" Tags="|alcohol-content|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25840" CreationDate="2022-01-04T15:47:17.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with wild yeast (caught in the wild) is that it is not a single yeast, but a mix of yeasts and other organisms which consume sugar from a sugar solution and can create different outcomes, depending on the organism getting a hold first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moulds: spoilage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Candida: forms a film, but is not real a spoiler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lactobacillus: lactic acid formation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acetobacter: turns alcohol into vinegar when exposed to oxygen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other bacteria can produce butyric acid, smells like barf&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sacharomyces yeasts: those that really turn sugar into alcohol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brettanomyces: if you are lucky, these can turn sugars which are not fermented by ordinary yeasts also into alcohol, so you can get a higher ABV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did once a test with a sourdough which smelled very yeasty (banana) and fermented some wort into beer. I got an attenuation of 70%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different strains of yeast will also have different alcohol tolerances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you can't really predict what the ABV you will get from wild yeasts. You can be lucky, or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are prepared to work long term, you could prepare a couple of recipients of wort or juice, leave them overnight outside to catch wild yeast and then check what happens with them. If they ferment, measure the gravity and then start propagating from the most promising results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T15:47:17.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24343" CreationDate="2022-01-04T21:06:12.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made wine with Welch's grape juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only used one packet of yeast and it turned out very good.  I did wonder if the added calcium in the juice I just bought was going to be an issue.  Now reading the comments, I don't think it will be an issue.&#xA;I will write a follow up if I have any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19899" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2022-01-10T19:47:18.123" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T19:47:18.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25652" CreationDate="2022-01-05T16:21:31.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bottle is only half full then it would have to produce a lot of gas to reach a dangerous pressure since there is more volume to fill. Proper refrigeration should stop fermentation virtually completely and opening the bottle releases the pressure - it might gush everywhere but exploding is very unlikely. You might cover the bottle with a damp tea-towel/cloth in the fridge before picking it up if you are really nervous but it seems very very unlikely to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T16:21:31.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-07T20:40:32.357" Score="2" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my second time doing 5 gallons of wild-fermented cider. Both years I used fresh pressed apples from a local orchard. Last year I had no problems. After two or three weeks at room temperature, it bubbled vigorously just as I had hoped. This year, nothing. No bubbling or anything. I have been stirring it everyday two or three times, but it has been two months and nothing has happened. Is there anything I can do to save or restart my cider at this point? Or does it need to be dumped out? Any ideas on what went wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19905" LastActivityDate="2022-01-08T16:58:24.057" Title="Wild Ferment Cider never fermented" Tags="|cider|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25844" CreationDate="2022-01-08T16:58:24.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously first thing is to monitor the gravity as Robert mentioned in his comment. If you don't check the gravity regularly there is no way to know if the fermentation is going. Obviously bubbles are a good indicator, that only works while the fermentation is fairly active, not when it is going at a slower pace or finishing up the fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gravity is not changing week-to-week then it is probably stalled/finished. It is important to have that number, cause it could simply be that your fermentation has just been going slow, or your apples have had very low sugar content, so it finished quicker than expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a natural fermentation it can beneficial to leave the must in a slightly cooler place than room temperature as that is what the yeasts are used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to if you should dump it then I'd try tasting it, and if it taste okay then you should try restarting it! It should be very obvious if the must has gone bad. Either it will smell/taste horrible, or you can visually see the mold growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for restarting you have two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First option is the easy one, just add some wine yeast and it should be fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second option would be making a natural yeast starter. You can do this by step feeding a water, sugar, and apple peel in a small container till you have a bubbly yeast mixture. This method is similar to making a ginger bug, which actually would work quite well to restart your fermentation too. The downside to this second option is that you'd get a lacto fermentation too, which would lower your potential ABV (though the lactic acid is quite good for you, so may not be a bad thing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastActivityDate="2022-01-08T16:58:24.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25333" CreationDate="2022-01-08T17:06:42.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A photo really would be best to judge your issue!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've observed regular safe procedures then it is very likely what has happened is that you've got a harmless yeast contamination, in which case you can remove the film and bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without further information I'd simply taste it and if it taste okay then it is likely just fine. Most really bad things also affect the flavor so in this case it is probably your best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-14T09:40:57.230" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T09:40:57.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25199" CreationDate="2022-01-08T17:26:30.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your gravity is going down you can feel certain that your fermentation is still continuing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific gravity is in fact the only way to know, so you're monitoring your fermentation the right way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastActivityDate="2022-01-08T17:26:30.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18958" CreationDate="2022-01-10T20:51:49.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get rid of the Potassium Sorbate (which is common as a juice presevative), it must complete its purpose, which is to prevent yeast to multiply (and mold to grow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it can prevent fermentation from starting, but it cannot really stop an active fermentation.  Which means you need to use an active yeast starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, if fermentation slows down before its time, racking and adding more active yeast one more time should work.  The more Sorbate there is, the more yeast it can control.  To illustratrate this, lets say that Sorbate will &amp;quot;attack&amp;quot; the yeast and be &amp;quot;consumed&amp;quot; afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the same thing goes for Campden (Metabisulfite), it protects the wine from oxygen, but once it is combined to oxygen molecules, the Sulfite is consumed and one would need to add more to continue the protection.  So to remove Sulfites in a wine, you need to expose the wine to oxygen for a certain amount of time (vigorous mixing would do!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2022-01-10T21:10:26.297" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T21:10:26.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25833" CreationDate="2022-01-12T16:24:14.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to add Campden, only if your recipe calls for it or if you plan to age your wine and preserve it for a longer period of time.  Remember that metabisulphite is naturally present in grape must and its purpose is to protect your wine from oxygen.  The recommended amount of free SO2 in a wine is between 25mg/L and 50mg/L which can be tricky to acheive if you don't have the tools to measure it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this being said, crushing a campden tablet and mixing it in a little water prior to adding it to wine shouldn't produce too much gas.  However, if you wine still has some CO2 in suspension, you should degass it before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I wouldn't wait 24h, but I would mix it thourougly before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2022-01-14T13:18:30.193" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T13:18:30.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-19T19:30:46.130" Score="3" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;Campden tablets need to be crushed before use. So why isn't Campden sold in powdered form?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably this is either because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dosage required is very precise, and it would be very difficult to measure this out by weight or volume; or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Campden is unstable in powder form; or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campden_tablet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;According to Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, eight Campden tablets are equivalent to ½ teaspoon of potassium metabisulphite. If this is the case, then perhaps Campden isn't &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; potassium metabisulphite? In which case perhaps the reason Campden is sold in tablets is because it contains a second ingredient which would otherwise separate from it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16553" LastActivityDate="2022-01-26T05:26:00.030" Title="Why is Campden sold in tablet form?" Tags="|campden|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25850" CreationDate="2022-01-19T20:08:31.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is in the Wikipedia article you referred to: the rest is filler, an inert ingredient which has no influence in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that this specific form of metabisulphites is something that is mostly used in Great-Britain and the US. Here in Europe brewing stores sell potassium- or sodium-metabisulphite in pure form, as a powder, in weights varying from 100 g to 1 kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since 1 tablet contains 0.44g, it can be indeed simpler to measure. E.g. when racking 10l wine, 1 tablet is enough to add protection against oxygen and light contamination. Personally, I have bought a precision scale, because when brewing there are other things that sometimes need to be measured in small amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cider.org.uk/campden.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article gives the history of the Campden tablet&lt;/a&gt;. This probably shows the main reason why it is not used in this form in Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-19T20:23:21.700" LastActivityDate="2022-01-19T20:23:21.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-20T08:13:03.420" Score="2" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;A newbie here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've brewed thousands of litres of good, bright tasty wine over the years, but this year I've turned my hand to beer. I brewed a Yorkshire bitter already, and am currently brewing a stout. Both from kits.&#xA;But I like to experiment. I've gathered the following ingredients for a blond beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 kg extra light spray malt,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 kg of Polenta (ground dried sweetcorn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom fermenting lager yeast,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;East Kent Golding hop pellets,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yeast nutrient for a lively must,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A little amylase to pre-treat the polentas remaining starch,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dextrose if required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also pondering whether or not to add a little rice flour.&#xA;I'll be dry-hopping it 5 or so days prior to kegging or lagering, whatever that may be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what more experienced beer brewers think of my planned recipe, and what, if anything, would you change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19938" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-01-20T11:45:47.457" LastActivityDate="2022-01-20T11:45:47.457" Title="Own recipe, any hints or tweaks?" Tags="|recipe|lager|experiments|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25852" CreationDate="2022-01-20T10:50:16.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which water will you use? Since this is a lager beer, it should not contain too much minerals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to the polenta and the rice flour, they should best be boiled first, so that they gelatinize. You might need much water for this so that it nots get too thick. Take this into account in your recipe. Let this cool to 65° C and then add the amylase. This will turn the starches of the polenta and the rice into sugars. Let them do their work for at least 30 minutes, the mass of boiled starches will become fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But leave out the rice flour. You have already a beer where 25% of fermentables come from corn (maize). While not unheard of, this will already dilute the taste of the malt extract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, combine this wort with the DME and your water in the boil, then add your hops. Do you have a hop schedule for bittering, flavour and aroma? Do you know how bitter you want your beer? With regards to the fermentables, use some more hops in the last 15 minutes of the boil this will help create body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add the yeast nutrient in the last ten minutes of the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have enough yeast? When using dry yeast, it will normally state how much you should use. Since it is a lager (can you ferment in a cool place?) you normally need more yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ferment first a week or two in a cool place, then give it a week in a bit warmer place (16°-20°C) so that it can clean up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lagering is storing your beer for an extended time at a lower temperature so that it can condition. If you keg it, you would wait a couple of weeks before serving from your keg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2022-01-20T10:50:16.387" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13435" CreationDate="2022-01-23T07:54:22.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was also done in New Zealand. I am making it again using fresh ginger because the dried doesn’t seem to have the same bite. I have a 3 part process, first you make a bug with grated ginger sugar and water, when this is bubbly make up 5 lts water 300 gm sugar and 300gm fresh ginger that has been chopped in a processor, bring to boil and extract flavour, let this cool. Once cooled add 250 mls of the bug and let ferment for 3 or 4 days. Then bottle. I am using swing top glass bottles and this is where the raisin question comes in.  I’ll try it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19951" LastActivityDate="2022-01-23T07:54:22.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-24T03:09:42.250" Score="2" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been brewing fruit wine with wild yeast for some time now and one think that is really hard is determining the ABV of the wine. So there is my question, I have a certain mash with a known concentration of sugar, is there a way to estimate the ABV knowing that there will be lactic acid + alcohol fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19953" LastActivityDate="2022-01-26T16:12:23.083" Title="Lactic acid vs alcoholic fermentation" Tags="|wine|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10915" CreationDate="2022-01-25T18:16:15.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perfect that you resolve it!&#xA;Sorry there is no Slangadapter in Biltema.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards&#xA;Björn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://tiling.se/plattsattningsverktyg/verktyg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tiling.se&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19958" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T18:16:15.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25850" CreationDate="2022-01-26T05:26:00.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Campden tablets I use in Australia dissolve in my strike water, so I don't understand why they would need to be crushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2022-01-26T05:26:00.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25855" CreationDate="2022-01-26T16:12:23.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer to &amp;quot;can I determine the exact concentration of alcohol factoring in the lactic acid produced from only the change in concentration of sugar&amp;quot; is no you can't. That said it might not really matter according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://oaji.net/articles/2017/5931-1520262006.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this paper &lt;/a&gt; the highest concentration of lactic acid they measured was 7.51 g/L which is 0.75%. Since there shouldn't be any lactic acid at the start of the fermentation, and the conversion from sugar is the same as ethanol. You should be able to subtract that directly from the ABV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are using a wild yeast with an unknown species, concentration, and strength of Lactobacillus. Unfortunately there &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oiv.int/public/medias/2503/oiv-ma-as313-07.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;isn't a easy way&lt;/a&gt; to measure the amount of lactic acid that I'm aware of. Its probably safe to assume that you could be producing anywhere from 1%-0.4% lactic acid depending on what you wine tastes like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19961" LastActivityDate="2022-01-26T16:12:23.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24855" CreationDate="2022-01-27T13:12:27.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the enthusiasm and level of detail here, great questions.  My responses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don’t see 30-minute hop additions being used as frequently as in the past.  When I see a 30-minute addition in a recipe, it tells me that the recipe writer probably could not decide whether they wanted bittering or flavor, or wanted some of both, so they stuck it in the middle.  However, in my opinion, the hop addition is more effective and more efficient if a firmer decision is made, either to add at the beginning of the boil as a bittering addition, or with say 0-10 minutes remaining in the boil which will maximize flavor.  A 30-minute addition is not a complete waste of hops, but… in my view, it is not efficient at either job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The amount of hops to hit 100 IBUs depends on the alpha acid of the particular hop to be used.  You’ve got the alpha acid data.  So then decide which hops you would like to use for bittering, or what combination of hops.  Then use software to determine the IBUs, OR try my own shorthand method for IBUs from bittering hops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IBU = 3.2 * oz * AA% * 5 / V (where V is the final batch volume in gallons, in your case 10L is about 2.6 gal)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then, say you were to use Azacca alone as your bittering hop.  Your calculation would go like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 = 3.2 * oz * 11.9 * 5 / 2.6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solving for the ounces needed, you’ll get 1.39 oz.  And if you prefer grams, multiply by 28.35 and you get 39g.  If you use more than that, you’ll still hit the IBU ceiling of 100 IBUs but you’ll have wasted that amount because beer can’t get more than about 100 IBUs, it is not possible under normal means based on physical chemistry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is wise to consider the late hop additions as part of the IBU calculation.  To do this, use the same equation as above but swap out the 3.2 factor for 1.4 for flavor additions or 0.6 for aroma additions.  I can virtually guarantee, your IBUs will come out accurate within 5-10 IBUs of the standard Tinseth method of calculations for IBUs.  If you add a lot of late hops, you will indeed need much less or maybe even zero bittering hops.  Keep in mind also, however, that there is a point of diminishing returns for late hop additions.  Beyond about 4 oz per 5 gallons (or 110g per 19L, or 60g per 10L), you’ll lose a large volume of wort and really won’t get any more flavor or aroma out of the hops from that point, which truly does turn into a waste of hops beyond that threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fermentation temperature is a big factor.  But also, obviously, if you like a relatively high amount of alcohol like 7% ABV or more, you will unavoidably begin to taste it above that point.  Difficult to avoid.  Keep the fermentation cool, below 20C, and you should generally be alright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, 11g in 10L does not hurt anything, but is a significant waste of yeast.  I would use 1/2 of a packet, and save the rest for another day in the refrigerator.  Dry yeast keeps for many years, contrary to what some will tell you.  I have used old half packs of yeast dozens upon dozens of times with no ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional comment: Belle Saison yeast will typically finish at FG 1.002 regardless of any other factors in the recipe.  If you brewed the recipe above as written with OG of about 1.075 or whatever, if you calculate the expected ABV using (OG - FG) * 133, you’ll get close to 10% ABV, which greatly exceeds what I think you wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize now that this is a late Answer.  Oh well.  Hope it helps somebody.  Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2022-01-27T13:12:27.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6848" CreationDate="2022-01-27T16:23:03.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;CRS is a 50:50 blend of sulphuric/sulfuric and chloric acids.  In  reducing the carbonate alkalinity, it therefore produces sulphates/sulfates and chlorides.  Being key desirable salts, this will not produce any off-flavours.  As it is a 50:50 mix, CRS produces roughly equal amounts of these salts and therefore is unlikely to upset your sulphate:chloride ratio unduly and therefore should not significantly affect flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is to reduce your alkalinity without exceeding the desired sulphate or chloride limit.  I use CRS regularly, living in a hard water area, but occasionally have to limit its use in a particular brew and achieve the alkalinity reduction via acidulated malt, lactic acid or, more likely, phosphoric acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19964" LastActivityDate="2022-01-27T16:23:03.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-27T17:46:05.493" Score="6" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;If any brewers here have made inquiries into historical styles of brewing, I have, for no particular reason, this question:&#xA;In the American West of the late-ish 1800s, when a just-paid cow poke went into a bar and asked for &amp;quot;a beer&amp;quot; just what was he given? Did most beer come by train from back east or was there some amount of local brewing going on between St. Louis and San Fransisco? What was the style of beer likely served in frontier saloons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19967" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T17:40:57.110" Title="Beer in the American West. Just what was it?" Tags="|beer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25861" CreationDate="2022-01-28T17:40:57.110" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The era we accoiate with the cattle drives started in 1866 when ranchers in Texas took there cattle to the nearest railroad in Missouri. By the 1890's the railroads had expanded to most of the united states, and long drives weren't necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 1866 the type of beer that a saloon would offer in rural Texas, and rail town in Missouri would be very different. Rural beer would have been produced by the saloon or a near by brewery. The ingredients all would be produced locally, so in hotter regions beer wouldn't have hops in it. It would have always been served at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.legendsofamerica.com/we-saloons/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;room temperature&lt;/a&gt;. In &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anheuser-Busch#Beginnings_and_national_expansion&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;1876 Anheuser Bush&lt;/a&gt; started using refrigerated railcars to extend the shelf life of their lagers. By then railroads &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.loc.gov/resource/g3700.rr000540/?r=0.467,0.365,0.169,0.064,0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;began to cross&lt;/a&gt; the southwest. By the you would be more likely to see a commercial German lager even in smaller towns if they were relatively close to a railway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Styles&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Literature about American beer before the introduction of lagers is pretty slim. If anyone can find anymore recipes I would be very interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kentucky Common Beer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kentucky_common_beer&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kentucky common beer&lt;/a&gt; was a popular beer in the 1850's. It was similar to a cream ale. It was apparently slightly sour do to the lactobacillus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beer is an easy-drinking, slightly sweet, dark amber to light brown ale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bjcp.org/docs/2015_Guidelines_Beer.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ingredients&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 row Barley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25-30% corn grist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1-2% Caramel Malts and Black Malts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saazer-type hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OG: 1.040-1.050&#xA;IBU: 27&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steam Beer&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Steam beer was produces in California starting by the 1860's. It was cheap low quality beer that used a heat tolerant lager yeast. Any grain or sugar would be added to the mash to get fermentable sugars. There didn't seem to be a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.eater.com/beer/2017/10/10/16434064/anchor-steam-beer-history-san-francisco&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;unified style&lt;/a&gt; as most were hastily improvised recipes. Steam Beers evolved into the California Common beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19961" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T17:40:57.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20483" CreationDate="2022-02-06T05:58:45.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer - no, you don't have to worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer is:  Methanol exists in (I think) any brewing process.  The reason there was poisoning in the bad old days of prohibition is that it has a lower boiling point than ethanol, so when it was distilled, methanol came out first so when some moonshiner was distilling, the initial liquid that was recovered had high methanol concentrations.  If that was sold, it was poison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that, our good old Federal Government INTENTIONALLY poisoned alcohol to dissuade people from purchasing the illegal drug.  Yes, out dear old government intentionally poisoned the illegal hooch supply.  At least 100,000 are estimated to have died from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moonshiners were brewing hundreds of gallons at a time, and when they distilled (with heat), methanol had a lower boiling point, so that came out first.  If THAT was drank, well, quite dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the distillation was ethanol (mostly) and water and dilute amounts of methanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will always produce some level of methanol in home brewing, but it's negligible.  Beers you buy from a store contain some level of methanol, so do wines.  Distilled products (probably) take some care to remove it - although I have my doubts with the cheaper rums..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's only with distilling when you are concentrating it you have to worry.  Distillation is illegal without a license, and you better darn well know what you're doing in order to do it safely because you're vaporizing a flammable gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With freeze &amp;quot;distillation&amp;quot;, you're just concentrating anything that isn't water.  I don't recommend you do this regardless - brew a cider, it's pretty simple, you need to add sugar (white sugar CAN be used, but mix it up a bit), and use a cider yeast.  That's quite drinkable.  If you do not add sugar, it will be about 5-6% ABV, with sugar, you can get it up to 12%-16%.  I'd suggest &amp;quot;brown sugar&amp;quot; - which is really just white sugar plus a bit of molassis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want alcohol, I guess white sugar + yeast + 1 month + and freezing it will do but you better find a mixer which kind of destroys the point of distilling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look up AppleJack, that's easy enough to make.  Trust me, I've made it, and I'm a freaking idiot.  You can screw up anything, but brewing cider is one of the easiest things to do.  It won't be carbonated, and if you're making AppleJack it certainly won't be carbonated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonation requires a bit of calculation, and if you want sweet cider that is carbonated, it requires calculation, time, and a way to kill the yeast at the right time.  Some people just brew cider wine, add additional sweetener, and then artificially carbonate it.  Other people go through all the math of how much CO2 will be produced by how much sugar - but be cautious with this, you're making a bomb if you screw up your calculations - if you want to carbonate, at least for the first time, put it in a box to ferment, and put that box in a box, and do it in a plastic bottle, not glass.  Old soda bottle is a bit ghetto but will work, and you can check to see how much pressure it is under.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soda bottles are designed to handle 90PSI at least.  If you buy a coke, and shake it up, it DOES NOT increase the pressure of the bottle.  It's at equilibrium to begin with.  The tightness of the bottle will give you a good idea of how tight it should be before you pasteurize it - this is usually done by immersing it 140F water until it reaches 140F.  That will kill the yeast, but be damned certain you kill the yeast, otherwise, again, you have a bomb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19996" LastActivityDate="2022-02-06T05:58:45.100" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25865" CreationDate="2022-02-09T20:18:21.237" Score="2" ViewCount="1096" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 4 days my mead started to sparkle and I can see Co2 bubbles forming pretty fast but it's the second week now and there is no bubbling in my airlock or even a pressure build up. I know it's completely air tight and I'm a little bit confused about that as I'm a novice brewer. Can anyone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opened my batch and it was self carbonated but not fermented. The starting SG was 1100 and final SG was the same, so I degassed the must and add more yeast. Now I need two more weeks to see the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20004" LastEditorUserId="20004" LastEditDate="2022-02-14T10:22:36.413" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T10:22:36.413" Title="No airlock movement but I can see bubbling in the mead" Tags="|mead|airlock|bubble|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25864" CreationDate="2022-02-09T22:22:24.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Probably&lt;/em&gt; primary fermentation is complete.   Leave it for another week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be things like fermentation has slowed, because the ambient temperature has dropped, and it is not complete.  Or a whole bunch of other reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the easiest ways to get a better idea of what is going on in the ferment is to take a sample, and test it with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydrometer&lt;/a&gt;.  Generally the idea is to test it &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; adding yeast, and when you think fermentation is complete.  Of course, it can be tested in-between too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hydrometer measures the density of a liquid, and suspended sugar increases the density.  When the yeast converts the sugar into ethanol, the density decreases.  So by taking measurements, it becomes clear just how much sugar remains in the ferment.  These measurements will also allow you to calculate how much alcohol is in your final beverage.  So it's worthwhile to buy the (inexpensive) equipment, and take the time to test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Generally&lt;/em&gt; you can tell the fermentation is complete when the hydrometer reading is approximately where you expect it to finish, and there has been no further changes for 3 days.  I write &amp;quot;generally&amp;quot;,  because environmental factors need to be taken into account too - if there's been no change for 3 days, but your fermenter has frozen solid, well that's a different matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So assuming you don't have this gear, what can you do.  First, I would wait until at least two weeks are past.  At the end of fermentation, the yeast will start to settle to the bottom.  So if the fermentation vessel is clear, you can watch for this.  There should be absolutely no issues leaving the ferment for 2, or even 3 weeks on the yeast.  If it's cool/cold, even longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also taste the mead, if it's still really sweet, &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; fermentation isn't finished. (This assumes there wasn't so much sugar, that the yeast can process it entirely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's important to leave the yeast to finalise the fermentation.  During the initial vigorous phase of fermentation, the yeast makes some &lt;em&gt;un&lt;/em&gt;tasty by-products.  But once the first phase is done, the yeast re-processes these compounds into something else (that doesn't taste bad).  If you package or quickly refrigerate the ferment before this happens, the quality of your final beverage will suffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastEditorUserId="13385" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T22:29:09.257" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T22:29:09.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7310" CreationDate="2022-02-11T04:00:47.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add dry malt,candy,or other sugarlike dextrose to fermenter and water...maintaining original OG&#xA;2.add say half a can of Coopers or other &amp;quot;kit&amp;quot; beer and 10 litres of water to fermenterUse a lager kit or low IBU&#xA;3.sweeten the beer e.g. lactose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have this problem I think..lol...hence I am looking for help.Loved the paracetemol and sidifinil jokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20007" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T04:00:47.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25868" CreationDate="2022-02-12T18:26:35.570" Score="2" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wine that appears to have reached 0.992 SG (so in theory should be ready to bottle), but am concerned that my SG reading could be an underestimate because I took the sample from near the top of the carboy. When moving the vessel to prepare for filtering, bubbles emerged from the airlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When measuring the SG of wine, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lovebrewing.co.uk/wine-thief-pipette/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wine thief&lt;/a&gt; only reaches an inch or so below the liquid surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a dense liquid (higher SG) sinks beneath a less dense liquid (lower SG), does this mean that measurements taken from the top of a carboy potentially underestimate SG of the vessel as a whole? Or can it be assumed that the entire vessel is at the same SG? This is a 7 gallon carboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16553" LastActivityDate="2022-02-13T09:03:56.853" Title="Does it matter whether SG sample is from top or bottom of vessel?" Tags="|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25867" CreationDate="2022-02-13T09:03:56.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have followed fermentation visually, through the side of the carboy, then you will have seen the turbulence created by the fermentation. This mixes the fermented liquid very well. Once you have a mix of water and alcohol which is mixed by this, there will not be any segregation of the mix any more in layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sugars have disappeared, the mix of alcohol and water is homogeneously mixed, and the remainder of the substances in the mix do not have any influence on the gravity any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at this stage it doesn't matter any more if you take the sample from the top or the bottom of the fermenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2022-02-13T09:03:56.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-17T06:45:29.177" Score="1" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any possible container to use to prevent beer to freeze if I put it in an upright freezer? I’m asking as I’m planning to buy a small upright freezer instead of this small refrigerator so that I can get more freezer space than just refrigeration but I still want to be able to put some drinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20025" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T16:01:45.157" Title="I want to use a upright freezer instead of regular refrigerator" Tags="|refrigerator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25871" CreationDate="2022-02-17T16:03:19.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every container will slowly cool down to freezing temperatures inside the freezer. Thicker isolation will slow this more, but at some point it will get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a combination standing freezer/refrigerator. But this is of course not small (2m10/6'8&amp;quot;(?)). However, it can contain a whole lot of drink and a whole lot of frozen food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2022-02-17T16:03:19.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20565" CreationDate="2022-02-21T13:05:07.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used 5 tablespoons one step cleaner and instead of water I used white vinegar and put about 3 tablespoons of powdered citric acid for good measure. I did add water to top up level to cover over the label. Used a 1 gallon Tupperware that will fit two corona familiar 32oz bottles. Filled bottles with hot water and placed in mix left over night. Next morning there was nothing but a shadow of the ink that wiped off with a paper towel. Be careful and add ingredients slowly, when adding the ingredients. Has a tendency to foam up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20033" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2022-12-07T16:02:07.193" LastActivityDate="2022-12-07T16:02:07.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-05T19:36:36.443" Score="4" ViewCount="2199" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is floating debris in my mead—Is this a cause for concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some context: I fermented honey water with Red Star Premier Blanc wine yeast, nearly 4 weeks ago. Two weeks ago, I transferred the mead into another carboy for secondary fermentation, added in toasted oak chips, and a Campden tablet. 1 week ago, I removed the oak chips, and transferred the mead into a new carboy. The mead still has not cleared up, and I just noticed some floating debris with bubbles. Is this just yeast that got kicked up, and is this normal? Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x2DlH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x2DlH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20051" LastActivityDate="2023-05-23T04:12:28.843" Title="Mold or Floating Yeast?" Tags="|yeast|mead|mold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-06T07:14:38.970" Score="2" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has been bothering me for years. I'm sure it can be done but every time I do a search it's always original gravity this and final gravity that. All I want to do is have a rough estimate of how much alcohol is in a concentration based on weight. Assume water/sugar mash. How do you do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20052" LastActivityDate="2022-03-06T09:15:29.507" Title="Guess Alcohol By Weight With ACTUAL Weight" Tags="|alcohol-content|alcohol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25875" CreationDate="2022-03-06T09:15:29.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot do that based upon the weight of a sample of your final beer, because then you have a mix of water, alcohol and final sugars:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final weight = Weight of water + weight of alcohol + weight of sugars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one equation with three variables, which you can combine to obtain the same final weight with different values for the water, alcohol and sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could obtain the alcohol value in your beer based upon samples of weight of your original wort and your final beer, but that is just a different way of measuring your original gravity and final gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. 1 litre of wort might measure 1.060 kg, and then 1 litre of beer might weigh 1.012 kg at the end of fermentation. This way you obtain the same figures as by using a hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a hydrometer is much more precise and handy: how much spread would there be on weighing 1 litre of wort or 1 litre of beer, when the final decimals are so small? And handy: you can use the same small device for getting the final gravity of a batch of 10l or 10000l.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also start from the total volume of your wort and beer, but then you also need to have a very precise measurement your volume, and a precise measurement of the weight of this volume. Which kind of scale would you use for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2022-03-06T09:15:29.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2022-03-08T20:28:01.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I toasted a 500 Gram bag of light English Oak chips in the oven (on a sanitised and bubbling hot baking tray covered in baking parchment) for 1 hour at 175 degrees Celsius whilst I baked a cake and a tray of oven fries on the lower shelves. Once done, whilst still warm, I added 100 Gram of this (now a deeper brown-tan colour) into a small sanitised jar with 200ML Scotch Whisky and 100 Gram of light brown sugar (bottle priming). I topped with boiling hot still water, sealed the lid, shook them vigoursly for a minute and put in a cool, dark cupboard for 3 days. When I was ready for bottling my 23 Litres of golden-Yorkshire IPA, I sieved the chips off, let the liquid into the bottom of the bottling bucket and then carefully siphoned in the brew. 4 weeks later, I popped open a bottle for testing... Delicious. I now have a firm and fixed method ongoing. Whilst doing this oven work, I have to say, my whole house smelt deliciously Christmassy lol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20062" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T20:28:01.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25871" CreationDate="2022-03-09T15:07:12.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kinglsey has the answer in the comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for is a way to control the temperature of the freezer to prevent it from going under freezing point.  Many articles explain how to achieve this at a very low cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12699" LastActivityDate="2022-03-09T15:07:12.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25874" CreationDate="2022-03-12T14:09:42.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OP's pic sure looks like normal yeast activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any bubbly, fuzzy looking stuff or rafts with &amp;quot;tendrils&amp;quot; stretching outward (like in the pic below) can be a cause for concern. OP just has some yeast bobbing around and a few rafts of bubbles floating on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PXUTR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PXUTR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastEditorUserId="18216" LastEditDate="2022-05-13T11:31:29.303" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T11:31:29.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4053" CreationDate="2022-03-28T20:31:03.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I’ve read it’s less common in beer than in wine where thick caps of fruit need to be pushed down and re-submerged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20120" LastActivityDate="2022-03-28T20:31:03.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25883" CreationDate="2022-03-31T10:11:02.963" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surprised I couldn't find an answer to this so I'm posting the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brewed my first imperial stout. Fermentation was super happy, krausen went wild and my airlock blew out (from what I'm seeing online - surprise surprise). I installed a blowout tube and everything is going well - my question is what do I do with the extra wort/krausen that's building up in my blowout container?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I just dump it down the drain or can I add it back to the fermenter when everything has calmed down a little (i.e. secondary fermentation has started)? I don't like the idea of wasting any of my hard work. I'm a real waste-not-want-not kinda guy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I used boiling water rather than sanitiser for my blow-off container so I'm not worried about adding sanitiser to my brew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20128" LastActivityDate="2022-03-31T11:57:33.607" Title="What to do with blowout Krausen/wort" Tags="|fermentation|wort|krausen|blow-off|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25882" CreationDate="2022-03-31T11:57:33.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dump it out. Pouring blowoff back in to save yourself a pint of beer risks the entire batch for infection. In the future you can use a bigger container for primary fermentation- but even so, blowoffs can happen. Be happy you've got a healthy fermentation!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2022-03-31T11:57:33.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-05T07:07:07.643" Score="1" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm researching on buying a pressure regulator to put on a co2 bottle. Now I'm finding &amp;quot;flow regulators&amp;quot; (I guess for aquarium) that give the output in litre/min. I am now wondering if it is technically the same to one that states the output in bar or psi. And if yes, can I just replace the manometer or is there a conversion formular from litre/min to bar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Because there might be different types, here an example of what I mean: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.de/Druckminderer-Gasarmatur-Druckregler-Schwei%C3%9Fger%C3%A4t-Co2-inert-gas/dp/B093724TMN/ref=mp_s_a_1_24?crid=38B468WKB9OQC&amp;amp;keywords=druckminderer%20gas&amp;amp;qid=1649140483&amp;amp;sprefix=Druckm%2Caps%2C109&amp;amp;sr=8-24&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20132" LastEditorUserId="20132" LastEditDate="2022-04-05T07:12:14.547" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T13:52:12.490" Title="Co2 regulator pressure vs flow" Tags="|equipment|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25884" CreationDate="2022-04-08T13:52:12.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A flow regulator and a pressure regulator are entirely different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, a flow regulator consists of an adjustable constriction that limits the flow of a gas (or liquid, as the case may be) through an adjustable constriction. Usually a flow regulator requires a constant input pressure (unless it is preceded with a pressure regulator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pressure regulator essentially consists of a spring-loaded membrane that regulates the inflow on the high pressure end in order to maintain a constant pressure at the low pressure end, even if the input pressure varies (which it will).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CO2 in a cylinder is compressed, not liquid (as opposed to butane or propane). That means that the pressure at which the cylinder is filled will gradually diminish and eventually reaches ambient pressure as the gas is consumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filling pressure of a CO2 cylinder can easily be 55 bar (about 800 psi) or more, while the pressure you need to dispense beer from a keg is typically around 2 bar (30 psi). Such pressure is not something to be taken lightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't try to economize or roll you own here. Simply get a CO2 pressure regulator for beer dispensing. &lt;strong&gt;Any other option is unsafe and must be advised against in the strongest possible terms.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T13:52:12.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-09T01:04:19.223" Score="2" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wine was fine. (This batch did stick and I added extra yeast) The last 2 bottles I opened foamed so much I lost 1/3 of bottle .  I have 10 bottles left. What should I do? Cool them ? Go back to Carboy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20142" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T11:20:55.600" Title="Foaming wine. Rebottle? Or back to Carboy?" Tags="|fruit-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25886" CreationDate="2022-04-14T11:33:51.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chilling will not work.  Best thing might be to transfer back to a carboy and allow them to finish the fermentation, completely, before bottling again.  Give them a few more weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2022-04-14T11:33:51.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25886" CreationDate="2022-04-20T11:20:55.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be able to simply re-bottle right away but I see no good reason not to give it a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is still fermenting I wonder if you neglected to add a stabiliser after fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T11:20:55.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25892" CreationDate="2022-04-21T18:29:03.100" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;fermenting a bochet, I dropped a bluetooth hydrometer in the must and started with a gravity reading of 1.128. Pitched lalvin EC-1118, and over a day the gravity has gone &lt;em&gt;up&lt;/em&gt; to 1.144. I've heard that if your yeast is active enough, it can physically push your hydrometer up, and throw your reading off. However, would that not mean that I should have some visible airlock activity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also quite sure my airlock is working properly - the fermenter is a corny keg, so when I pull the pressure valve on the lid I can see the fluid level in the airlock drop. If I remove the airlock and push it on again, I can see it start at a higher level, and pull the pressure valve, I can watch it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what could cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2556" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2022-04-28T12:15:13.217" LastActivityDate="2022-04-28T12:15:13.217" Title="gravity rising, no airlock activity" Tags="|mead|specific-gravity|honey|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25891" CreationDate="2022-04-25T17:17:10.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, gravity can't go up...so it sounds like the honey probably wasn't dispersed evenly in the water. I imagine getting caramelized honey to evenly disperse probably takes aeration or an immersion blender. If you just dumped thick honey and water in a keg and gave it a shake- it probably had pockets where the honey was more dense than others and threw off your reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the airlock...it sounds like it's working- isn't it? Why would the airlock move when you pull the release tab if there was no positive pressure in the keg? That said..it's only been a single day so you'll probably need to wait another day (Although at this time..it's been a few days). As an aside I would really recommend adding some yeast nutrient if you haven't already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2022-04-25T17:17:10.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-26T14:49:01.360" Score="3" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bonjour,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have brewed a Doom Bar clone. I was aiming at an Original gravity of 1.045 but only managed 1.041. Unfortunately I lost temperature in the ferment and it stuck at 1.020 after 7 days and has remained here. I heated it up and stirred but no action. I have now racked and am clarifying at 4°C. I am going to bottle tommorow. Should I add priming sugar? I am afraid of bottles exploding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20184" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T10:49:50.490" Title="Bottling a Doom Bar clone at high SG" Tags="|bottling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-02T03:33:25.360" Score="4" ViewCount="528" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am relatively new to the world of personal home brewing. I have always gravitated towards mead and my next venture ought to be distilling some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read through lots of articles and threads on the topic and to no end have I found something agreed upon on the issue.&#xA;Every other spirit has its own category based on its original ingredient, the process, or a slice of historical origin.&#xA;Why on earth has distilled honey ferment not have a name of its own?&#xA;Fermented honey is generally considered the most far back dated form of alcohol documented, yet the distillation of fermented honey is extremely uncommon for some reasons and there doesn't seem to be an officially recognized name.&#xA;I really just wanted to give my vote and leave the conversation to others to explore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there were to ever be an adopted name for the spirit, I vote it be called Nectar.&#xA;It has connotations to the source of the product as well as the mythos of fermented honey in Greek poetry &amp;quot;nectar of the gods&amp;quot;. What a befitting name for the concoction in my opinion. I'd love to see what others feel about this name as well as the issue itself.&#xA;Also, why aren't honey spirits really a common product at this point? I live in USA so maybe there are some in other regions that im not aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20194" LastEditorUserId="12699" LastEditDate="2022-05-17T18:06:10.097" LastActivityDate="2024-02-28T09:08:41.100" Title="Distilled honey spirit needs an official name" Tags="|fermentation|mead|honey|distillation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25893" CreationDate="2022-05-04T10:49:50.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could be looking at either a stuck fermentation (which may resume in the bottle and produce bottle bombs) or a high percentage of unfermentable sugars in the wort. Which one it is I can't say on the basis of what you write here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safe course would be to transfer it to a secondary fermentation vessel and let it sit there for another week or two before bottling. In general, an apparent attenuation of only just over 50% would give me concerns about exploding bottles. I would suggest you try to rouse the yeast, secondary the beer, and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T10:49:50.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7048" CreationDate="2022-05-13T13:31:09.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is that fermentation produces organic acids and that a lower pH generally means better electric conductivity. However, if such a relationship is linear and if it would be reliable given other wort/beer components remains to be seen. Carbonation (which means carbonic acid) also plays a role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, conductivity will change during fermentation but as a means of measuring your fermentation progress it doesn't look promising. Also, if it were useful for that purpose I imagine it would be at least somewhat general practice by now, as opposed to the methods currently used in the industry (measuring density by velocity of sound and optical refraction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T13:31:09.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="958" CreationDate="2022-05-13T13:33:26.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: none. It is a common misconception that metabisulphite stops fermentation. It doesn't. It is an oxygen scavenger and a bacterial inhibitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already mentioned above you should use potassium sorbate to halt fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T13:33:26.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25525" CreationDate="2022-05-14T10:36:15.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you start steeping lemons in 96% pure alcohol and let it sit for 3 weeks, the alcohol will also strip the oils from the lemon peel. The water in the sugar syrup that you add later will make the limoncello cloudy. If you make limoncello from vodka and let it steep for 3 weeks, the water in the vodka will stop the oil extraction and your limoncello will stay clear. That's why making limoncello always starts with pure alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20240" LastActivityDate="2022-05-14T10:36:15.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-17T13:00:04.953" Score="2" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there such thing as a spunding valve for a demijohn or swing-top bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make elderflower champagne for the second time. Last year it was fermented in plastic bottles, and one of them exploded. I figured there must be some sort of equivalent of an airlock that releases above a certain pressure, and thus I discovered that spunding valves are a thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it seems that spunding valves are made only for kegs, and specialised pressurised fermentation vessles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does such a thing exist for glass swing-top bottles or demijohns? Is this a silly question, and am I missing a reason why this would be non-sensical?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies if this is daft. I'm totally new to this, having made elderflower champagne once before, and nettle 'beer' a few weeks ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20261" LastActivityDate="2022-05-17T21:14:24.953" Title="Can I use a spunding valve on demijohn/bottle?" Tags="|fermentation|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25900" CreationDate="2022-05-17T21:14:24.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen an off-the-shelf glass/plastic bottle with a variable pressure release (spunding valve..that's a new one to me!) I could be wrong, there's all kinds of neato gadgets these days. I think you'd have a hard time getting anything to attach to a swing top bottle that isn't the swing top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; do it though..but not in a swingtop. You could build your own spunding valve (there's some DIY guides online) or there are some distributors (in the US at least) that are selling something that would act as a spunding valve with a valve release off a ball-valve gas input. You could potentially use one with a ball-valve carbonation cap that screws onto 2 liter bottles (they make these and they're ~$10 USD). That should work in theory...but I've certainly never tried anything similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's really not a silly question. There's a lot of people that just want to make really simple and sweeter fermented sparkling beverages and being able to do something like this on a 2 liter would certainly be novel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would certainly be easier to do this with stainless steel kegs but  that can be cost/space prohibitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2022-05-17T21:14:24.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25903" CreationDate="2022-05-24T08:23:49.150" Score="2" ViewCount="894" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that when mixed in water, sodium percarbonate gradually dissolves, leaving behind only water. However, I have recently come across &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ebna4Zept_U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; which says that pre-used sodium percarbonate solution remains effective and can be used to clean/sanitise more equipment, as long as &lt;strong&gt;two days&lt;/strong&gt; after initial use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does sodium percarbonate really leave behind only water, or is there something else left in the water that means it can be re-used, as suggested in the linked video?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When using sodium percarbonate, is it necessary to completely fill all vessels and leave them to &lt;strong&gt;soak&lt;/strong&gt;, or can a smaller amount be used to &lt;strong&gt;rinse&lt;/strong&gt; equipment? I would like to minimise water usage if at all possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16553" LastActivityDate="2022-05-27T12:33:11.437" Title="How to use sodium percarbonate" Tags="|cleaning|sanitizer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25902" CreationDate="2022-05-25T13:21:34.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does sodium percarbonate really leave behind only water? No!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sodium percarbonate rapidly dissolves in water and dissociates into&#xA;sodium, carbonate and hydrogen peroxide. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.heraproject.com/files/6-f-04-hera%20percarbonate%20full%20web%20wd.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no- not just water. But it does break down into &amp;quot;safe&amp;quot; compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When using sodium percarbonate, is it necessary to completely fill all vessels and leave them to soak?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you're trying to do.  Sodium percarbonate is marketed pretty widely as everything from a cleaner to a one-step sanitizer. I've typically only ever used it as a cleaner. If you want to clean a really gunky dirty fermenter- you might need a soak. If you just want to clean the dust out of a carboy then a quick rinse probably suffices. When cleaning a 5 gallon carboy I usually half fill it- and roll it around on the floor for a while until it's had good contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using it as a sanitizer, it probably needs more contact time than something like iodophor or starsan, the packaging should tell you that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As most of us here at homebrewing are likely only casual chemists at best, you might want to ask &lt;a href=&quot;https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;chemistry&lt;/a&gt; if you have any serious chemical questions/concerns!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T13:21:34.390" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25902" CreationDate="2022-05-27T12:33:11.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that sodium percarbonate is not all that stable and breaks down into sodium carbonate (a.k.a. washing soda) and free oxygen which escapes into the atmosphere. There is no way of knowing if the sanitizing agent still has its peroxide component. That means that pre-used sodium percarbonate may or may not be still effective. The only way to tell is by whether or not your batch of beer has gone off. Is that worth the risk? In my personal opinion it isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2022-05-27T12:33:11.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-30T07:00:30.010" Score="1" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read several recipes and talked with people at my local brew shop and thought I had a pretty good idea of how to make my first batch of mead but after I've already got it going I'm now over thinking and wondering if I did it wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I'm making 1 gallon and have mixed 3 pounds of honey with the water to make up a gallon as I want it on the sweeter side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was instructed to heat some water and honey together until melted enough to combine, add to my sanitized bottle, fill the rest with cool water and add my yeast at below 80⁰f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did all that and threw my airlock on top and it's currently bubble away in my cupboard. After 3 weeks I was told to bottle them using a siphon and seal them to do a secondary fermentation for at least 3 months. Reading other stuff I now feel like I'm totally wrong and am worried. This is a very important gift and I want it to be right. Any tips or could tell me where I went wrong if I did?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20291" LastEditorUserId="13095" LastEditDate="2022-06-27T17:23:06.830" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T17:23:06.830" Title="Did I totally mess up making mead for my first time?" Tags="|fermentation|mead|brewing|honey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25905" CreationDate="2022-05-30T15:00:38.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, from an small calculation your mead has a gravity of 1.144 or 33° Brix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a yeast was able to convert all this sugar (from the honey) into alcohol, it would yield 20% ABV. Most yeasts will not tolerate this, and die when reaching a level between 13% and 17% ABV. It would mean, though, that because your mead cannot ferment further, it stays sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what you will have is that your yeast will work slower and slower. Bottling after three weeks with this gravity is overly optimistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons that the yeast will work slower and slower are twofold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing alcohol level will stress the yeast and kill of weaker yeast cells&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lack of proper nutrition will also stress the yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you will need to have patience and wait until your mead stops fermenting. That will take more than a couple of weeks, probably a couple of months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for sweetness, what you should understand is that what we experience as sweet is mostly through the sugars glucose, fructose and sucrose. However, yeast will always ferment these into alcohol and carbon dioxide. Honey is almost pure these sugars. This means that it is difficult to make sweet mead without special techniques or other chemicals, especially for a beginner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be lucky in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The alcohol could kill your yeast and leave residual sugars, without a chance that the fermentation starts again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The yeast that was recommended has some sweet-like byproducts, and as such makes your mead taste sweeter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend buying a book on brewing mead, that will give you more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-05-31T11:46:38.197" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T11:46:38.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-02T22:25:48.817" Score="3" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is threefold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I watched my gravity readings go up from 1.039 to 1.043 as I cooled my wort before I pitched.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I noticed in the System page of my TiltPI, it says &lt;code&gt;SG 15C/59F (default)&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I cold crash, the gravity readings go up. When I enter the temperature and gravity reading in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydrometer temperature adjustment calculator&lt;/a&gt;, the gravity is the same as before the cold crash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems beyond reason that this device would need to be adjusted for temperature, since it is both a hydrometer and thermometer, but that appears to be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastEditorUserId="3352" LastEditDate="2022-06-03T12:38:07.877" LastActivityDate="2023-07-23T18:05:25.660" Title="Is the gravity reading from a Tilt Hydrometer adjusted for temperature?" Tags="|hydrometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-05T04:52:20.887" Score="2" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bottled my first batch and all bottles seemed fine, little bit cloudy but seemed okay.&#xA;Last few bottles are extremely cloudy and almost look just like yeast. Is this still safe to use or do I discard it?&#xA;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20321" LastEditorUserId="12662" LastEditDate="2022-06-21T14:12:29.220" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T14:12:29.220" Title="Last bottles are extremely cloudy in my first homebrew bottling" Tags="|yeast|beer|ale|cloudy|pale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25911" CreationDate="2022-06-06T22:15:22.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's safe to drink. There are plenty of articles that claim that yeast is actually healthy (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.healthline.com/health/brewers-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;healthline.com&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-715/brewers-yeast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;webmd&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may not taste great and look too cloudy. If that bothers you, you can try to filter the beer. Afterwards you need to add sugar and possibly more yeast to get bottle fermentation going, or you'll end up with flat beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the next batch I'd recommend you bring your fermenting vessel to a table or kitchen counter. Let it sit a few hours so that all trub stirred from moving can settle again. Then rack into a different vessel, like a bottling bucket (with a spigot). Let that sit a few hours again. (Side effect: diacetyl rest.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottle from that vessel, but don't tilt it. The bottling bucket usually has the spigot a little bit above the bottom of the bucket so that the last few millimeters don't go through the spigot. If you are using a racking cane, you can put a little plastic cap on the bottom, so that it doesn't suck in the sediment. (You can improvise with steel wool, which will keep the cane off the bottom of the vessel while letting liquid through.) That way you leave the sediment in the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T22:15:22.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25911" CreationDate="2022-06-11T17:19:56.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely safe to drink, just a higher level of yeast in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend to mark those bottles and see if they still look different after 4-6 weeks conditioning undisturbed in the bottle - preferably in a nice cool place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely the yeast will settle out but those ones will end up with a thicker layer of sediment than the others. Check to see if there is a flavour difference compared to the others - you might even find you like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18569" LastActivityDate="2022-06-11T17:19:56.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25908" CreationDate="2022-06-11T17:27:59.573" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer, like most liquids becomes less dense at higher temperatures but this effect also depends upon the alcohol content so it would be hard to reliably calibrate out.&#xA;In reality I would strongly advise that hydrometers based on the tilt principle are great for showing &lt;em&gt;variations&lt;/em&gt; in SG but are not particularly reliable as an accurate measure of &lt;em&gt;absolute&lt;/em&gt; gravity. Therefore they are best used as a means of keeping track of the progress of a fermentation from day-to-day, but when it comes to establishing the final gravity of your brew it's best to use a hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18569" LastActivityDate="2022-06-11T17:27:59.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-15T18:14:45.347" Score="1" ViewCount="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;I loved the Schlafly Hefeweizen when we lived in St Louis, are there instructions on homebrewing Hefeweizen and that is the type I would like to homebrew. I have had more authentic hefeweizen and didn't like it. Hey, I like cheese and Velveeta&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20347" LastActivityDate="2022-06-16T18:21:02.533" Title="I loved the Schlafly Hefeweizen when we lived in St Louis, Is there instructions on homebrewing Hefeweizen" Tags="|beer-styles|hefeweizen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25917" CreationDate="2022-06-16T12:26:18.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question actually has several answers, and additional questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first additional question is if you have experience with homebrewing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer is negative, I suggest that you first start with a commercial kit for a hefeweizen, so that you get to know some of the basics of brewing beer, to know sanitation, fermentation and bottling. If this succeeds, then you have something to drink that you can compare with the Schlafly and others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that you can move into all-grain brewing, but I recommend to buy a good book like John Palmer's &amp;quot;How to Brew&amp;quot;, or something from Emma Christensen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have experience with home brewing, have a look around on the internet on how hefeweizens are brewed, and get further experience with pre-packaged weizen yeasts (like Mangrove Jack's Bavarian Wheat yeast or something similar, but not the WB-06 yeast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have done this, the next step would actually be to propagate yeast from a bottle of Schlafly hefeweizen, and use that to brew your own clone of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that brings us to the last point: what you want to brew is a clone of the Schlafly hefeweizen. But for that you would need to get to know the ingredients: malts and hops. But it seems that you are a bit on your own for that, I didn't find any clone recipes on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2022-06-16T12:26:18.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25917" CreationDate="2022-06-16T18:21:02.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.schlafly.com/beers/hefeweizenale/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their website has a pretty good hint&lt;/a&gt; about how to make this beer. It really depends on your equipment, but this is a pretty straightforward american wheat ale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just use a blend of 30% wheat / 70% pale 2 row malt with the hops listed and make sure to use American ale like US-05, WLP001, or WY1516 and you'll probably get pretty close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2022-06-16T18:21:02.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25922" CreationDate="2022-07-11T14:55:00.477" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started fermenting my first batch of turbo cider yesterday (10/07/2022). I'm using this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003E14DXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this 5L fermentation bucket&lt;/a&gt; but the foam has already creeping up to the lid. It's very hot in England right now, which is speeding up the brewing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the foam at the level it is only after 24 hours, I really think I need to pour my fermenting cider into a larger bin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this cause harm to the brew? Should I do something else instead, like just scrape the foam off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brew consists of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4L of apple juice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.5g ale yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1tsp yeast nutrient&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 mug of tea&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;300g sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastEditorUserId="20409" LastEditDate="2022-07-11T14:57:56.023" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T01:10:28.393" Title="Fermentation growing too fast for bin" Tags="|fermentation|cider|equipment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25921" CreationDate="2022-07-12T01:10:28.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, at this early stage it won't cause any harm. Just a more risk of contamination..but cider ferments out pretty dry so it's a little safer. Though by the time you've poured it, the bulk of the most vigorous fermentation will likely already be complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However for the sake of simplicity I'd really just recommend using a blow-off tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T01:10:28.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25924" CreationDate="2022-07-13T10:53:32.780" Score="2" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't take a gravity reading before my cider started to ferment. The recipe I followed said it would yield a ~9% cider, however I only put in about 85% of the sugar it specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to get an accurate ABV reading after it's completed its fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2022-07-14T03:37:02.640" Title="No pre-fermentation gravity reading" Tags="|cider|gravity-reading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25923" CreationDate="2022-07-14T03:37:02.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ibrew.com.au/pages/vinometer-instructions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vinometer&lt;/a&gt;. They are meant to measure alcohol in e.g. wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I found vinometers rather finicky. When you use one, send your sample through a coffee filter or paper towel first. Tiny fruit pieces could clog it. That should also get rid of any co2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2022-07-14T03:37:02.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25954" CreationDate="2022-07-14T09:46:29.360" Score="5" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only other topic I found on this was here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/9902/using-pine-in-beer&quot;&gt;Using pine in beer&lt;/a&gt; - it was asked nearly 10 years ago and didn't have the answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with using pine in their brewing and if so, What was your method and how much (even roughly) would you say is an ideal ratio of beer/pine? Anything else you can say based on your experience with using pine with brewing? I'm keen to experiment but want to make a decent batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that you can add either pine needles or pine buds or use branches with a brew with the following methods (source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewingnordic.com/new-nordic-beer/brewing-with-juniper-spruce-fir-pine/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewingnordic.com/new-nordic-beer/brewing-with-juniper-spruce-fir-pine/&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infuse the ingredients in hot water. Use the infusion for mashing and&#xA;sparging&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add directly it to the wort or fermenter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filter the mash through branches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the ingredients to the mash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infuse the ingredients in&#xA;the wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add branches, berries, or wood to a fermenter, keg, or&#xA;cask.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be looking to add pine needles and/or buds with an infusion in the fermenter, or add them directly to the fermenter. I am still interested in any of the other methods though. I haven't found anything else on quantities except for one forum post here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/brewing-with-pine-or-fir-needles.360806/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/brewing-with-pine-or-fir-needles.360806/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quote: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot; OP refers to the needles as 'pine'; whereas ... they come from a fir.&#xA;No reason not to use them (other than if the tree was treated / sprayed with chems to preserve freshness).&#xA;Some folks add them early in the boil.&#xA;Some add them late.&#xA;Having brewed a spruce ale ... a little goes along way.&#xA;Added 1 dry pint of loosely packed tips @15&amp;quot; to a 2.5G batch.&#xA;On a re-brew ... I'd cut that @least by half.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this says nothing in terms of method of using the needles, and he was using spruce which may be a stronger or weaker flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20128" LastEditorUserId="20128" LastEditDate="2022-07-14T23:38:58.767" LastActivityDate="2022-10-03T08:08:34.063" Title="Using Pine with Beer" Tags="|fermentation|beer|recipe|ingredients|brewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25925" CreationDate="2022-07-19T14:37:19.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to check out &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.crowdcast.io/e/kveik-lars-garshol/register&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Unlocking Kveik's Mysteries&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; by Lars Marius. It's a documentary of sorts on the history and origins of Kveik yeast along with the traditional use of Juniper in the brewing process. Maybe follow up on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.garshol.priv.no/blog/366.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lars' blog&lt;/a&gt; or something if the video sparks any interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2022-07-19T14:37:19.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-22T00:43:23.453" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started brewing Kombucha and one thing I noted is how they tell you it's required to do open vessel fermentation. The main reason why I am asking is because I wanted to ferment it under pressure in a keg, but based on what I can read - that's not advised as it can kill the scoby. So what's the difference why beer can be fermented under pressure and Kombucha can't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2022-07-22T11:15:44.933" Title="Why do we want an oxygen rich environment for Kombucha but not for Beer?" Tags="|kombucha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25927" CreationDate="2022-07-22T11:15:44.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because the fermentation of kombucha proceeds in two steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first step, the sugar in the tea is fermented into alcohol. Yeast can do this with or without oxygen. This is done by yeast, a single-cel fungus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second step, alcohol is fermented into mostly acetic acid (vinegar) by bacteria. The bacteria need oxygen for this process. So, if you would starve them from oxygen, they would not be able to feed on the alcohol, and would die. Another effect would be that you would not get kombucha, only fermented tea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not the pressure that would kill the scoby, but the fact that the bacteria would not get oxygen that would kill the scoby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(One brainfart: if you have the material to ferment under pressure, you could of course check if you can apply air under pressure (not pure oxygen) instead of CO2, so that the bacteria can still turn the alcohol into vinegar and you get a nice carbonation in your kombucha?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2022-07-22T11:15:44.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25929" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-25T10:38:21.760" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YWZuw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YWZuw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Been brewing for some years now and never had a batch go bad.&#xA;But after I bottled my last brew there was a black layer on the side of the brew bucket(see picture). This layer was below the surface line of the brew when it was fermenting. It seems like there is some at the bottom of the brew bucket to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We didn't see anything while bottling, only an hour after when we had time to clean did we notice it. Far fetched but maybe it sprouted during that time?&#xA;Was fermenting with Tormodgard kveik I bought online so thinking that might be a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody know if its safe to drink?&#xA;We had some samples before we saw the layer and it tasted fine, fruity with a maybe a little funk.&#xA;Threw the fermented bucket away and the yeast i collected from the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20438" LastEditorUserId="12662" LastEditDate="2022-11-08T10:05:57.563" LastActivityDate="2022-12-08T10:06:25.763" Title="Is this beer contaminated?" Tags="|fermentation|beer|contamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24947" CreationDate="2022-07-27T19:55:07.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is a combination of dissolved CO2 and revived fermentation.  Wine can ferment down lower than 1.00 SG so there may have been some remaining sugar.  Additionally, stirring up some of the yeast could have re-activated yeast and re-circulated nutrients throughout the wine (I'm wondering is the &amp;quot;dead&amp;quot; yeast at the bottom started to decompose and provide additional nitrogen into the solution).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bottom line opinion: your wine is likely unharmed or possibly even improved.  The fact that you have seen so much air lock activity means any air/oxygen that did make it into your wine was probably quickly pushed back out, displaced by the CO2 whether from fermentation or coming out of solution. Additionally, wine is generally less susceptible to oxidation and contamination than beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15636" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T19:55:07.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25933" CreationDate="2022-07-28T19:03:13.890" Score="0" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;So question: I have movers taking my stuff 1200+ miles, about a week of travel. I have two corneys with finished beer in them. One is almost done and I'll empty in time. The other is 99% full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hear transport trucks get very hot. If I let the beer come to room temp and purge to keep the pressure low, I should hopefully be ok right? I'd hate to have to throw a party and to finish a whole batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have insight or previous experience? Of note, yes I now moving companies don't want to transport liquor and high pressure potentially explosive cargo. I did speak with them about the keg and they were fine with it if I purged to keep pressure low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20448" LastActivityDate="2022-08-01T12:38:10.697" Title="Long distance corney keg transport" Tags="|keg|transport|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4470" CreationDate="2022-07-31T20:48:30.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe everything written in response to the query here is correct. It's a form of yeast called Kham yeast. As long as there is no mold it is safe. Try to avoid bottling it with your brew of course.  If mold is present, dispatch of the whole brew and sanitize all equipment. Make sure that your fermenter is air tight and that your airlock is clean and filled for your next batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20453" LastEditorUserId="12609" LastEditDate="2022-08-02T17:23:33.657" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T17:23:33.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25931" CreationDate="2022-08-01T12:38:10.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you have to worry about catastrophic beer kerplosion. Should be fine as long as you make sure they're not under high pressure when you load them as a keg is basically a big can of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However my 2c is that sitting in a 100F+ truck for a week isn't going to do any favors for your beer and it's just another damn heavy thing to move. I'd go with your party idea, but I think you should be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2022-08-01T12:38:10.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-06T10:53:29.287" Score="2" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read a lot of the &amp;quot;normal sugar&amp;quot; vs &amp;quot;brewing sugar&amp;quot; questions, and I think I'm there with an answer but I wanted to just get it verified as I'm new to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a beer kit, with 3kg of malt. It says to then add an additional 1kg of brewing sugar to take the abv from 5.5% to 7%, this is optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm happy with around the 6% mark, so can I just add 300g of sugar - is there a reason it is 1kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't have brewing sugar, I'm thinking that 1 part normal sugar to 3 parts malt won't matter? Particularly if I reduce it to 300g?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to anyone that can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20469" LastEditorUserId="18756" LastEditDate="2022-08-16T20:27:34.927" LastActivityDate="2022-09-26T20:28:18.843" Title="A couple of Sugar Questions" Tags="|fermentation|sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25934" CreationDate="2022-08-08T14:54:00.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The only reason to add sugar to a beer is to increase ABV and/or &amp;quot;dry&amp;quot; the beer out a bit. You can add none, 300kg, or any reasonable amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Brewing sugar&amp;quot; is any sugar used when brewing. This could be raw sugar, refined white sugar, honey, dextrose, etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opinion is that 300 grams is a good amount with your malt ratio. Anytime you get over half a kilo of refined sugars in a 30L batch you're going to get a more &amp;quot;boozy&amp;quot; flavor and lots more green apple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2022-08-08T14:54:00.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-17T01:03:54.080" Score="1" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uPmlh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uPmlh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;drying hops&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;My friend gave me some fresh hops from his plants he harvested this past weekend. They are currently drying. The only problem is that he mixed three varieties in one bag. He wrote onto the bag it mighht make a good pilsner. He said it was roughly 40% cascade 40% Willamette and 20%  East Kent golds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ive been brewing about 4 years and have never made a pilsner with anything but saaz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brew 5G batches. I would think they soak up a lot of wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on recipes or anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20483" LastActivityDate="2022-08-17T11:52:23.633" Title="Recipe ideas for fresh hops give to me" Tags="|hops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25936" CreationDate="2022-08-17T11:52:23.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I get fresh hops- I just often just use them as dry hop. Depending on the year, conditions, cross-pollination, etc they won't always exactly mimic hop characters that you're used to in specific varietals. Also ..once dried you lose a ton of your mass. Since they've never been packed tight- it usually looks like a lot more hops than actually is there by weight (not sure if there's tons and tons of them off-camera).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should use them for really depends on their character. Rub a few cones and smell them and see what they're like..and then use it in an appropriate beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2022-08-17T11:52:23.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-24T12:42:12.570" Score="1" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to set about my first pressure fermented lager, and will be using a Fermzilla V3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has a large valve at the base of the conical pressure vessel leading into a small jar that can be shut off and removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When initially filling and starting the fermentation should I have this valve open or shut? (i.e. should the bottom chamber be full and open during fermentation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20497" LastActivityDate="2023-06-15T11:38:01.447" Title="Fermzilla bottom valve open or shut during fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3888" CreationDate="2022-08-25T15:36:04.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Geuze / Lambics are usually in champenoise bottles, coz of their high carbonation, its not uncommon to put a cork and a cap on those beers to as insurance to no gas escaping.&#xA;Moreover Orval uses special design heavy duty bottles for their beer, which are significantly more robust than other bottles. They presumibly do this because they add Brettomyces for bottle conditioning and those make enzymes that cut large sugars to easier fermentables, so carbonation goes up over time. It works really well because the beer flavours change over time and increased fruitiness together with more dryness is a god (i love this beer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20499" LastActivityDate="2022-08-25T15:36:04.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-29T10:05:48.357" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have similar recipes for elderflower and elderberry wine, using six kilos of sugar to 23 litres of water. Both have the same additives, yeast, acid mix and nutrient - the elderberry is ready to kill at about 3 weeks, but the elderflower takes about six weeks.  Both are the same temperature,  I use about 2 ounces of dried flowers and 500g of dried berries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20506" LastEditorUserId="15679" LastEditDate="2022-09-27T14:53:58.003" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T14:53:58.003" Title="why does my elderflower wine take so much longer than elderberry wine?" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25941" CreationDate="2022-08-30T23:33:05.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The elderberry wine has a good deal more nutrients in it, since it uses the whole berries. You won't get a lot of nutrients from the elderflowers themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast are more than just a way to turn sugar into alcohol and CO2 - they have complex nutritional needs at different stages of their growth. Generally whole fruit can provide everything they need - but the closer you get to simple sugar water, the more the yeast will struggle to perform the chemical reactions needed at different stages of their lifecycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15679" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T23:33:05.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-06T18:44:25.323" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I processed 100lbs apples for pie filling, apple butter, whole chunks with cinnamon, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a lot more in the freezer, but they were doused with lemon juice to keep them from browning until the cooking starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these lemon juice doused apples good for cider making? Or should I just pick more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20533" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T15:57:51.330" Title="New to cider making. Apples treated with lemon juice" Tags="|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-07T19:21:12.310" Score="1" ViewCount="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've picked my grapes, but I don't have any yeast yet. How long can I leave them before crushing them and starting the fermentation for white wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20535" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2022-12-17T12:36:08.410" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T12:36:08.410" Title="Storage of picked grapes" Tags="|yeast|wine|cleaning|storage|open-fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3661" CreationDate="2022-09-13T15:38:26.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don’t use fermcap in your kettle . You are better of playing with your temp setting for your boil . You want a slow roiling boil in your kettle . I have been a brewer for over 25 years at a large brewery . Gaining control of your temp setting in your kettle will improve your beer quality over the long term and more consistent flavor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20542" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T15:38:26.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25934" CreationDate="2022-09-26T20:28:18.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Brewing sugar&amp;quot; could refer to corn sugar, as some brewers believe it is superior to cane, white or table sugar. Or like @Rob said, it could simply refer to any type of sugar. In my opinion, it would not refer to honey, but I don't know that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't say corn sugar is superior, but it is different. I've been brewing hard seltzers lately and in an article I read, someone was discussing which sugars to use and said she had taken to using half and half in her homebrewed seltzers. I've taken up that practice with both my seltzers and my beers. When I add sugar, I add half cane and half corn sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple sugar (cane, corn, brown, etc.) is very digestible for the yeast, so I usually use at least a little just to get things off to a good start. But I also like my beers a little on the dryer side than many commercial examples. A typical recipe for me might be 600 grams of malt and 100 grams of sugar in 4 liters. So my ratio is closer to 6:1 rather than the 3:1 your recipe calls for. I agree that that much sugar might cause the beer to taste boozy or vinegary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, if you don't add any sugar at all, your beer might be a little &amp;quot;malty&amp;quot;. I think anything in the 300 - 500 gram range will be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20514" LastActivityDate="2022-09-26T20:28:18.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25894" CreationDate="2022-09-27T12:20:40.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a definitive answer, but this guy calls it &amp;quot;comb vodka&amp;quot;:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.liquor.com/articles/liquor-made-from-honey/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;distilled honey = comb vodka&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20514" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T12:20:40.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25070" CreationDate="2022-09-27T12:34:44.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To adjust the OG, deduct some malt or add some water, of course. But also give your yeast the opportunity to overperform! A couple of pointers on Saison yeasts. First is to add a dose of simple sugar to get the yeast off to a voracious start. The 2nd is to &amp;quot;open ferment&amp;quot;, as Drew Beechum sometimes calls it. He suggests putting a piece of foil over the opening instead of the airlock to reduce any pressue buildup. And as others have already said, keep it warm. I use a warming mat and adjust temp by simply moving the carboy further on or off the mat. Search for &amp;quot;drew beechum saison&amp;quot; and you'll find plenty on the subject.&#xA;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20514" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T12:34:44.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25944" CreationDate="2022-09-27T15:57:51.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will be fine for cider making, the yeast will just enjoy the extra nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T15:57:51.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25525" CreationDate="2022-09-27T17:53:05.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a very hard time finding Everclear which my recipe called for so I did find 151 proof vodka and I use that all the time. I just found out that you want limoncello to be cloudy. I let my infusion sit for 6 to 8 weeks before I add my simple syrup once I add the syrup to the infusion it clouds perfectly. I am only using coffee filters right now to filter out the infusion so there’s no solids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20584" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T17:53:05.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-01T21:29:38.463" Score="1" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to homebrewing, I am making my second batch which is a 1.5 gallon batch. Seeing as how my first batch was very sweet, but not so much alcoholic I decided to make my next batch with more honey to up the alc/v.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ingredients include 1 gallon of water, 6lbs of honey, 1.5 lbs of cherries, 1.5 lbs of mixed berries(raspberries,blueberries,blackberries), and Larvin k1V-1116 yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starting gravity was at 1.150.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first container seemed to be leaking as the airlock was doing nothing, in response I changed the container now my problem is the smell of the must. Last night when I checked it it has a sickly sweet smell to it, but this morning, when I went to stir it for the last time before letting it ferment on its own(if it was even going to). when I opened the lid I was met with a very sour smell almost like vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I put the lid back on it after about 5 minutes the airlock started to bubble every 3-5 seconds, today is the 4th day since I made the batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to say that the batch is turning into vinegar, or could it just be from the Berries?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first batch I made had more variety of berries, but only 1 lbs of honey and by the fourth day I was already getting a clear alcohol smell from the must, any advice would be very helpful thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20592" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2022-10-12T13:23:25.197" LastActivityDate="2022-10-12T13:23:25.197" Title="Mixed Berry Cherry Mead fermentation issue" Tags="|fermentation|first-time-brewer|mead|aroma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25925" CreationDate="2022-10-03T08:08:34.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Among the conifers, there are two that are used in brewing; Juniper and Spruce.  None are used widely I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably don't want to use Pine because all parts of the pine tree will add some level of turpentine-ish flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uses I am familiar with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a) Juniper berries - adds a sweet and spicy flavour to beer when added during boiling of the wort.  Juniper berries have been used as a spice since time immemorial and has a very distinct taste.  Try with a handful or so for a 5 gallon / 20l batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;b) Juniper boughs.  The long boiling of juniper twigs and boughs (without the needles) have been used in beer recipes in Scandinavia since forever.  Originally it was used as an emergency replacement for grain to add fermentables, but it also adds a unique taste.  My great grandmothers Yule Ale recipe calls for boiling 1kg Juniper twigs no thicker than your little finger for 2 hours in 5l water and add the resulting liquid to the wort. (again 20l batch. Personally I would probably start with half that until you know if you like the rather distinct taste or not.) It will add to the OG of the wort and a residual sweetness to your final brew as the twigs will add both fermentables and unfermentable sugars.  I would recommend it in the darker varieties as it will be somewhat overpowering in a pilsner type beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spruce needles:&#xA;Young spruce needles added to the wort during boiling will add a light, fresh citrus-y flavour to your beer.  Somewhat similar to the effect you get if you add hops 'tea' brewed in a pourover manner post-boil.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You need to pick the needles early in spring, while they are still soft to the touch.  The later they are harvested, the more bitter the taste and at some point it will switch over to turpentine.  When harvested early enough, you can also make jams, jellies, or ice-tea from them.  Traditionally (again from my great grandmothers recipes) it has been used as a hops replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20598" LastActivityDate="2022-10-03T08:08:34.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25957" CreationDate="2022-10-05T15:47:44.950" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a batch of turbo cider last Sunday (2022/10/02) and it slowly started to ferment over the next three days, peaking at about an inch of foam on top. Please see below for photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I checked today (2022/10/05) and there are no signs of any fermentation (i.e. foam, bubbles in the bin or air lock). My cider was kept in a space with a temperature range of 18C-21C and was undisturbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still new to homebrewing and turbo cider so am confused if the fermentation is complete or it's somehow dead. Looking for some insight/guidance please!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ingredients:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3L apple juice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1L pomegranate juice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;250g sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cider yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yeast nutrient&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photos of the fermentation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1l1FXNtrHfgE272xMYByiuOd3lBesIs0g/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Day of fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Ej4XhT_h2XxgfXyMK1BHhE9HVwT6cwG/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Two days after fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x4qCyuNE6idUe_JwRJVzVTVf2g5RMDwE/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Today, 3 days after fermentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2022-10-07T07:51:12.413" Title="Turbo cider 3 day fermentation, wonder if it's died?" Tags="|fermentation|cider|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25953" CreationDate="2022-10-05T15:49:50.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try a sip and see what it tastes like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2022-10-05T15:49:50.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25955" CreationDate="2022-10-07T07:51:12.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to the Facebook group Turbo Ciders For All.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a gravity reading and as it's less than 1.000, so can conclude that it has not finished fermenting. I'll check again in 2 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2022-10-07T07:51:12.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-12T12:37:49.593" Score="2" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m brewing Albea Cerevisiae - an old polish recipe for a white beer with herbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added some herbs to the boil, but didn’t get much of the flavor and aroma I wanted.&#xA;Now I want to dry-herb my beer in the secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m thinking of 3 ways to sanitize the additives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pasteurization - but I’m worried that the essentials oils are too volatile and will loose them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soaking in high percentage alcohol and adding the solution to the fermenter - but I’m worried of having a flavor of a strong alcohol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As above but in Star San - but I’m worried about pH drop and unwanted flavors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20623" LastActivityDate="2022-10-13T13:00:39.430" Title="Sanitizing additives (herbs)" Tags="|sanitation|dry-hop|secondary|aroma|additives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25959" CreationDate="2022-10-12T19:15:42.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would only do 2. Soaking in high percentage alcohol and adding the solution to the fermenter - but I’m worried of having a flavor of a strong alcohol. I have done this by using vodka, which is 40% alcohol and dried orange peels. I did not get an alcoholic flavor, but the dosage was 180ml of orange peel vodka tincture for 20L of wheat beer. It turned out great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20624" LastEditorUserId="20624" LastEditDate="2022-10-12T19:21:50.553" LastActivityDate="2022-10-12T19:21:50.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25959" CreationDate="2022-10-13T13:00:39.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make a tea with the herbs and use the tea to dose. You can pre-taste this and dose as needed, and the steeping process (~180F) will pasteurize the herbs. You can also filter out the herbs this way to prevent any extra matter in your wort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2022-10-13T13:00:39.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25968" CreationDate="2022-10-14T12:55:27.787" Score="2" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;After brewing several Ale beers over the last period I would like to brew a Belgian Style beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many recipes suggest to add an additional step called &amp;quot;Secondary Fermentation&amp;quot; or sometimes &amp;quot;Conditioning&amp;quot;.&#xA;Many also suggest to do it in much lower temperatures, than the ones the Ale Yeast typically operates. For instance doing a secondary fermentation arround 8 degrees Celcius or even 1 degree Celcius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is this possible? Will the yeast be able to operate in so low temperatures? How can I find the suitable secondary fermentation temperature for a given Yeast/Wort?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the purpose of secondary fermentation in Belgian type Beer? Some sources highlight clarity while others mention the flavor maturity. Is this process needed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The only similar step I have followed is to add sugar while bottling and let the beer be carbonated naturally. Although the yeast does operate during this stage, this is not secondary fermentation. Correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20629" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T13:23:45.540" Title="Secondary Fermentation Temperature and Purpose in Belgian Style Beer" Tags="|temperature|secondary-fermentation|secondary|belgian|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25966" CreationDate="2022-10-17T15:45:18.037" Score="4" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am asking this because we have a situation where a perfectly good pilsner suddenly dramatically changed after it was bottled into a hazy, oxidized, hoppy mess. It was for a beer competition where they were gracious enough to give us one of the extra bottles after the fact. The change was so dramatic that many of us are wondering if they accidentally switched our beer with someone else's pale ale. The beer does not taste infected or soured, it just tastes and looks completely different. The beautiful clear straw yellow turned into a rose tinted gray haze. The light hoppiness turned into an intense fruit-forward hop aroma. The mineral and slight buttery background notes completely faded away. It just tasted more like a pale ale than a pilsner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, we're trying to get to the bottom of this. This beer was fermented in a closed system and transferred into the serving keg in a closed system. When we bottled it, we purged the bottles with CO2. We also capped it with an oxygen barrier cap. So theoretically, it has never been exposed to oxygen. It was also filtered when transferred to the serving keg so we are also puzzled how it could become cloudy again. Could there be some mishandling of the bottles after the fact that could cause this? Can a beer become oxidized after it's been bottled? Like if it's left in a warm room or outside for long periods of time? We dropped off our beer directly with them for the competition but it was 2 weeks before judgement day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8127" LastEditorUserId="8127" LastEditDate="2022-10-17T22:50:47.397" LastActivityDate="2022-10-23T08:40:52.557" Title="Can beer become oxidized in the bottle?" Tags="|bottling|storage|oxidation|competition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-19T14:44:37.450" Score="2" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am day 3 in fermentation and twice I have gone to stir the must only to find the lid was propped open from the bag pushing up on it.  Will this ruin my wine?  Should I transfer to my 6gal bucket for more head space?  or should I let it ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20643" LastActivityDate="2023-10-24T19:00:52.367" Title="Initial fermentation keeps pushing my lid open. Should I transfer from 5gal to 6gal bucket?" Tags="|fermentation|wine|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25964" CreationDate="2022-10-20T11:16:59.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your fermentation bin should be airtight otherwise your wine could turn into vinegar. You could use a blow off tube or move into a bigger sanitised bin. Either would stop this from happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2022-10-20T11:16:59.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25963" CreationDate="2022-10-20T17:05:09.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes- it can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chasing down oxidation after you've covered the basics is hard. Oxidation is typically perceived as starting once the beer is fermented... but that's not entirely true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the difference you're describing appears a bit extreme given the time and causes me to be a bit suspect. Do you still have this keg? Can you try to replicate the bottling and mishandling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most homebrew competitions are done by volunteers doing their best, and they're not always as organized as you might suspect. It is &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; plausible that bottles could get mixed... but I wouldn't start throwing that around until you've tried to really confirm it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2022-10-23T08:40:52.557" LastActivityDate="2022-10-23T08:40:52.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11800" CreationDate="2022-10-23T09:22:56.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carageenan in processed meat, dairy or beer causes a splitting headache in me which begins 1 to 2 hours after consumption and continues if not treated for 18 hours.  Therefore i drink only German beers which by law do not contain carageenan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20656" LastActivityDate="2022-10-23T09:22:56.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25962" CreationDate="2022-10-26T13:23:45.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of questions here, I'll try to break them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this possible? Will the yeast be able to operate in so low temperatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary fermentation is a bit of a misnomer- typically by the time you &amp;quot;secondary&amp;quot; your beer- the beer is usually fully fermented. Ale yeast certainly will be slow moving at 8C but will remain alive and somewhat active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I find the suitable secondary fermentation temperature for a given Yeast/Wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can ask ten homebrewers and get ten answers. I usually go around 14C (60F) for my conditioning for Ales. I find that keeps the yeast active while helping with flocculation a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of secondary fermentation in Belgian type Beer? Some sources highlight clarity while others mention the flavor maturity. Is this process needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a brewing argument that never ends. Some people never secondary, some do. My guess is the practice is adopted from breweries where they dump their yeast slurry after primary, and homebrewers try to mimic this. Secondary fermentation this really just a conditioning/aging step where you want your beer to continue to condition but you want to avoid yeast autolysis. I'm not convinced it helps with &lt;em&gt;clarity&lt;/em&gt; but it can somewhat reduce trub in your bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this process needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going for a straightforward Belgian beer, I think that you could easily go from primary fermentation to the bottle without much of an issue. If you plan on extended aging, or adding adjunct spices, secondary might make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only similar step I have followed is to add sugar while bottling and let the beer be carbonated naturally. Although the yeast does operate during this stage, this is not secondary fermentation. Correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correct, this is a fermentation, but not what we colloquially refer to as &amp;quot;secondary fermentation&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW I don't think the brewing process for &amp;quot;belgian&amp;quot; style beers and any other typical ale is especially different. Some folks like to crank up the primary fermentation temperatures a bit, though my personal taste is not to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T13:23:45.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-26T14:20:44.603" Score="2" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello this is my first time making wine, I got excited rushed through the process and didn't realize that the berry juice from concentrate that I used had potassium sorbate until after a week. I also put 2 packets of yeast instead of one in this 1 gallon batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just learned about potassium sorbate and how it stops fermentation, so i thought this batch is ruined. Should I just dump it and do it all again? But, it's been 2 weeks and the airlock has been bubbling up since day 1 non stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since day 1 there's lots of white bubbles on top and you can also see a lot of tiny bubbles going from down to up and i understood all those as signs of ongoing fermentation, which made me hesitant to dump the whole thing. But, I'm confused, how is this happening if the juice that I used has potassium sorbate that supposedly stops fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also read somewhere that it doesn't stop fermentation just it stops from fermentation from being complete; I do not know what that means does that mean it's gonna end up being a not so strong wine or what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just complete the process since it's been 2 weeks already with good signs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll do better next time I make a batch but I just don't know what to do with this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20665" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2022-11-02T11:42:00.077" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T08:40:33.583" Title="Fermented juice with potassium sorbate" Tags="|fermentation|wine|first-time-brewer|red-wine|potassium-sorbate|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25969" CreationDate="2022-10-26T15:25:08.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preservatives make it harder to ferment but not impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your yeast has been able to ferment so I think you should be fine to carry on as normal. You may have saved it by putting in two packets of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's all a learning experience. Hope it turns out well :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T15:25:08.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25969" CreationDate="2022-11-01T07:46:53.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Potassium sorbate doesn't really kill off the yeast, it just &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.homebrewing.org/can-i-use-potassium-sorbate-to-stop-a-fermentation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stops it from reproducing&lt;/a&gt;. The bubbling can indicate active fermentation, but a better way to check if anything is happening is to sample with a hydrometer or refractometer. This will tell you if the yeast are actively consuming the sugar or of they stopped because the next generation isn't available to complete fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T07:46:53.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25929" CreationDate="2022-11-08T08:34:50.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure why this question hasn't been answered yet after 3 months, but here goes. I'm assuming the beer hasn't killed you yet... :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of &lt;strong&gt;black&lt;/strong&gt; residue in the fermenter and what you describe as &amp;quot;a little funk&amp;quot; almost has to be a mold infection, although it &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be bacterial in nature as well. I can see no way for the Kveik yeast (or any other yeast including wild airborne strains) to produce these effects. The only other possibility that comes to mind is that this is some sort of sediment from the wort if you used a lot of very dark, friable grain (e.g. roasted barley) but this is unlikely to stick to the fermenter that way and would in all probability simply end up in the regular trub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've had 3 months to let the beer mature and the infection to get out of hand. By now it should be clear if the beer has gone off due to contamination or not. So what's the verdict?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T08:34:50.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25969" CreationDate="2022-11-08T08:40:33.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated above, PotSorb inhibits fermentation, but not infinitely. I've made the same mistake myself, and I've found that preservatives (typically PotSorb and/or Natamycin/Pimaricin) can be overwhelmed by sufficient quantities of yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while the presence of antifungal preservatives is a major hurdle for the yeast, it's not necessarily the end of the line for your batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general rule is: if it ferments, let it ferment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you dump the batch now, all is lost. If you give it time to see what it does, you will learn something and you may end up with something pretty drinkable. If not, you can always dump it then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T08:40:33.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25964" CreationDate="2022-11-08T08:43:54.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bag (presumably with ingredients) floats to the point where it pushes up the lid, that means you have two problems here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The fermenter lid should be closed at all times except when CO2 pressure pushes it up momentarily to &amp;quot;burp off&amp;quot; the excess pressure. A better way is to fit an airlock. As stated above, your current setup puts you at risk of microbial contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the bag of ingredients floats that high, it means it is not properly submerged in your must which means the contents will not be properly involved in the extraction process. Weigh it down (using sterilized glass marbles works well) to keep it where it belongs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T08:43:54.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-16T15:14:35.943" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;This 2013 article, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.science.org/content/article/scienceshot-shot-coffee-gets-you-drunk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ScienceShot: A Shot of Coffee That Gets You Drunk | Science | AAAS&lt;/a&gt; talks about how used coffee grounds are being tested as a base for fermentation, but doesn't give specific details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone here had success doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'd especially be interested in knowing if it can be done without significant addition of sugar, with the coffee being the primary source for the fermentation and not simply there to add flavour.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19555" LastActivityDate="2022-11-16T17:10:33.990" Title="Fermenting used coffee grounds" Tags="|fermentation|coffee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25976" CreationDate="2022-11-16T17:10:33.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per the original paper&#xA;(Armando Sampaio, Giuliano Dragone, Mar Vilanova, José M. Oliveira, José A. Teixeira, Solange I. Mussatto,&#xA;Production, chemical characterization, and sensory profile of a novel spirit elaborated from spent coffee ground,&#xA;LWT - Food Science and Technology,&#xA;Volume 54, Issue 2,&#xA;2013,&#xA;Pages 557-563)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hydrothermal process was initially performed aiming to extract aroma compounds from SCG [spent coffee grounds]. Solid-liquid extraction conditions consisted in using water and SCG in the ratio of 1 g/10 mL, at 163 °C during 45 min. At the end of the reaction, the residual solid material was separated by centrifugation (5000 g, 15 min) and the liquid fraction (SCG extract) was stored at 4 °C. To be used as fermentation medium, SCG extract was supplemented with 180 g/L sucrose and 175 mg/L potassium metabisulfite. Then, the pH of the fermentation medium was adjusted to 5 by addition of calcium carbonate, and the remaining solid residue was removed by centrifugation (5000 g, 15 min).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]3.5 L of fermentation medium (180 g/L sucrose) inoculated with [&#xA;Saccharomyces cerevisiae (RL-11) at] an initial cell concentration of 1 g/L. Fermentations were maintained at 30 °C and 150 rpm. Samples were periodically withdrawn to determine the total sugars concentration in order to determine the fermentation end. At the end of the fermentation, the fermented broth was centrifuged (5000 g, 10 °C, 15 min) to separate the biomass, and the liquid phase was stored at 4 °C for further distillation. The fermentation runs were performed in triplicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The free-biomass fermented broth was distilled in a system comprising a vigreux column of 36 cm of length, a condenser, and a 4 L flask filled with 2–2.5 L of fermented broth. During the fermented broth distillation, samples of approximately 20 mL were recovered and the ethanol content in each one of them was determined. Then, the samples were blended in order to obtain three fractions according to their ethanol content: the foreshot or “head” (&amp;gt;70 mL/100 mL), the middle cut or “heart” (70–40 mL/100 mL), and the feints or “tail” (&amp;lt;40 mL/100 mL). The fraction corresponding to the heart had the ethanol concentration corrected to 40 mL/100 mL by adding ultrapure water, and was stored in glass bottles with caps and plastic coverings at room temperature for later sampling, chemical and sensory analyses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20733" LastActivityDate="2022-11-16T17:10:33.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25978" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-18T23:56:41.040" Score="2" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've stocked up on Grolsch bottles long time ago for storing fermented drinks (specifically kvas), but barely used them because of the need to deep clean them before and after every use. It would much better fit my schedule, if I could just prepare the bottles ahead when doing my regular housekeeping and have them ready whenever I need. I've read a bit about oven sterilization method and I want to try it, but I'm not completely sure I understand how it actually works or how should it be adjusted for a flip-top bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to take the rubber seal off before sanitizing and boil it or steam it separately? If true, how am I supposed to reapply it to the bottle without introducing microbes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does the foil trick works? Do I just take a square of regular kitchen aluminum foil, wrap it around the neck an it magically shrinks to create a seal as it heats up?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I create a seal for the cap, which also needs to remain sterile until bottling?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I'm wrong about the rubber seal and I can put the bottle as-is into the oven, would it be dangerous to sterilized closed bottles this way? This would be the easiest way to do it, but I don't won't to experiment with potentially exploding bottles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The information on the internet seems to be really scarce (or I'm bad at searching), so I'd appreciated if I could get a step-by-step guide on what am I supposed to do. I'm following &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/brewing-preperations/sanitation/sanitizing-your-equipment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this guide&lt;/a&gt; by John Palmer for the method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Edit&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I mean by a &amp;quot;foil trick&amp;quot;, copied from the link above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some homebrewers bake their bottles using this method and thus always have a supply of clean sterile bottles. The opening of the bottle can be covered with a piece of aluminum foil prior to heating to prevent contamination after cooling and during storage. They will remain sterile indefinitely if kept wrapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20741" LastEditorUserId="20741" LastEditDate="2022-11-19T15:49:35.820" LastActivityDate="2022-11-19T16:52:40.850" Title="Sterilizing flip-top bottles in the oven, sealing for later use" Tags="|first-time-brewer|bottles|bottle|safety|sterilization|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25978" CreationDate="2022-11-19T11:52:57.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's worth mentioning that as homebrewers, we really need to be think about living in the &amp;quot;sanitization&amp;quot; realm rather than the &amp;quot;sterilization&amp;quot; realm. We have households, pets (and kids), hands, pollen, dust... All sort of ways for microscopic contaminents to land on, and in, our brewing equipment. It's impractical to try and keep things &lt;em&gt;sterile&lt;/em&gt; since our homes simply are not sterile environments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The phrase by Charlie Papazian: &amp;quot;Relax, Don’t Worry, Have a Homebrew&amp;quot; fits here. After all, homebrewing &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a hobby. It's supposed to be mostly enjoyable or, relaxing. Sure, sometimes things go wrong but that comes with any hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've watched youtube videos and marveled at the excessively careful and precise process people have gone through to reuse/wash their yeast. Wash, boil, filter, transfer sometimes doing it over and over. I've also seen videos of one guy just dump part of the trub straight from one fermenter into a new batch of wort and said he's been doing it that way for like a year. He enjoys his brews. Point being, there is a wide spectrum of process here but apparently quite a bit of wiggle room as far as sanitary/sterile goes. Yeast, given a good head start, will do a good job of out-competing other organisms. Make sure you equipment is clean. I know people who have assumed Starsan is a cleaner. It is not, so make sure whatever comes in contact with your brew is cleaned with PBW or something similar after every use and you'll be way ahead of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about the &amp;quot;foil trick&amp;quot;. What I've seen is people wrap foil around a beaker of yeast when making a starter. This is to presumably lessen the amount of contaminent that gets in. It is not an airtight seal. If it were, there is risk of the beaker exploding as the yeast produce co2 as they ferment the sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do with my swing top bottles is soak them in a solution of hot water and (unscented) Oxi-clean for about 30 minutes, gaskets and all, and then rinse them with cold water thoroughly. Afterwards, I'll put about 2 TBSP of Starsan solution in them, shake and seal. When I want to use the bottle, I'll dump out what's in there and put fresh solution in, shake and fill. I only use RO water for my Starsan and make a 5 gallon bucket of it. I used to filter my tap water for it but it would get cloudy and funky smelling after a month or so so switched to RO. The RO based solution never seems to get cloudy or funky smelling but I do dump it after 6 or 8 weeks. I re-use my yeast now using a mason jar and the same method. I always make a starter. If it doesn't act right, or smells off, I dump it.  The last batch of yeast I brewed with was the 7th generation of some wlp002. It was fine. Beer turned out great. I get nothing but compliments on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not about to argue with Palmer's writing, but I'm not on board with bleach (at the link above). I think it's unecessary and can cause big problems for your entire brew process if you don't get it all rinsed off completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still feel better using the oven, I would definitely take the rubber seals off and not leave the bottles sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2022-11-19T11:52:57.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25978" CreationDate="2022-11-19T16:52:40.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't fear the bleach, you don't need to add much. But to rinse it off, always use a metabisulfite solution (Campden). I always clean my bottles in a light chlorinated alkaline solution, then rinse them in mentioned metabisulphite solution. The advantage is that you can use the same solution to clean the fliptops, then seal your bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you use the oven, never use it for any kind of rubber rings, they will dry out and not seal properly anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2022-11-19T16:52:40.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6354" CreationDate="2022-11-21T10:47:48.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brewing for close to 40 years and have never ran flaked rye through the grinder, I just add a 15-20% flaked rye to my mash grain bill.&#xA;Since this is the first time I've heard of grinding it, I will try it out on my next brew and determine whether it makes a difference on gravity/taste.&#xA;It might extract a bit more of the peppery taste from it, which would be a plus for sure.&#xA;This is probably a common mistake.  Getting overconfident will help you make these mistakes!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20747" LastActivityDate="2022-11-21T10:47:48.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6058" CreationDate="2022-11-25T15:40:25.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually the oven drying method looks quite accurate.  If done correctly with wax paper, parchment paper, or foil.   You can pre-heat the sheets to 212-270F in the oven.  Let oven with baking sheet material cool to 100F and smear on the yeast for drying in the oven.  Surely, this is what our ancestors did before high tech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this link for how dry yeast is made (high level overview).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bobsredmill.com/blog/healthy-living/how-is-dry-yeast-made/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bobsredmill.com/blog/healthy-living/how-is-dry-yeast-made/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20756" LastActivityDate="2022-11-25T15:40:25.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25293" CreationDate="2022-11-29T18:57:52.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for a gasket on the connection to the CO2 tank. The symptom you are describing is very common and usually caused by the absence of a small plastic washer-like ring that sits inside the threaded connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My CO2 supplier even provides tanks with a spare gasket attached to the valve, in case the original falls out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not missing a gasket, a good test is to connect everything and submerge it in water. Bubbles will form and rise where the CO2 is leaking, and you can address the problem from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20772" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T18:57:52.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22536" CreationDate="2022-12-01T05:15:29.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is old but if anyone still interested it should Google 'sprowt labs malting acro'. They make some automated home malting thing that malts enough grain to make triple batch of beer. They are US based so there is no 230V support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20778" LastActivityDate="2022-12-01T05:15:29.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-10T05:00:09.467" Score="1" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought some pasteurized cider from a grocery store that was sourced from a local apple farm. The jug has been sitting in my refrigerator unopened since I got it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my surprise, after a few weeks the jug significantly swelled up, indicating that fermentation had occurred. I was definitely surprised by this since it was pasteurized, unopened, and refrigerated the entire time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this safe to drink? Can I continue to let it ferment (maybe even at room temperature)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know most people add their own yeast so I am a little skeptical as to how safe this &amp;quot;mystery&amp;quot; culture might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20800" LastActivityDate="2022-12-12T14:28:34.747" Title="Store Bought Pasturized Cider Has &quot;auto&quot; Fermented, Safe To Drink?" Tags="|fermentation|cider|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25985" CreationDate="2022-12-12T14:28:34.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely- it's safe to drink. Pasteurization is really difficult to get right, especially for smaller farms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course leave it to ferment- and it clearly will continue to do so even when cold. Are you going to get a very drinkable cider? Possibly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the strain of yeast causing the fermentation, letting the product completely ferment you'll likely get 1 of 3 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vinegar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low ABV cider that is pretty sweet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher ABV cider that is very dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically with wild yeasts you'll get 1 or 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way make sure you open the cap and bleed out the pressure once or twice a day (or get an airlock) otherwise the pressure will build and rupture making quite a mess in your fridge!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2022-12-12T14:28:34.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25945" CreationDate="2022-12-14T21:44:49.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fermentation is the process by which grapes are converted into wine, so you'll want to start the fermentation process as soon as possible after picking the grapes. If you don't have any yeast, you can crush the grapes and let them sit for a few days to allow wild yeasts on the grapes to begin the fermentation process. However, this can be unpredictable and may not result in the best wine. It's best to obtain some yeast and add it to the crushed grapes as soon as possible to ensure a successful fermentation. You can also try using a starter culture of yeast to help get the fermentation process started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20813" LastActivityDate="2022-12-14T21:44:49.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-18T18:25:47.650" Score="1" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to grow a SCOBY following the video linked below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s currently day 4.5 and I maybe see something very faint but not even sure about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have it in a bedroom around 70, window closed, on a shelf with a blanket over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it look like it needs any changes in the jar or in the environment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/LVwCIMHnbSk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/LVwCIMHnbSk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aeTIM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aeTIM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwsbs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwsbs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[![enter image description here][3]][3]&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynGRs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynGRs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ent here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20828" LastActivityDate="2024-03-09T01:12:40.383" Title="Does this environment need any changes (SCOBY)" Tags="|yeast|bacteria|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25204" CreationDate="2022-12-21T21:04:28.263" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;... beer should not be bottled if gravity reading is higher than 1.006 or the bottle may burst&amp;quot; A quote from a conventional wine &amp;amp; beer hydrometer user instructions. Couldn't agree more. 1.028 is an alarmingly high FG to proceed to bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17023" LastActivityDate="2022-12-21T21:04:28.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8177" CreationDate="2022-12-22T22:27:41.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have kept beer in my garage for many winters. I live in New York City and my garage is not heated. As long as you keep the beer bottles in their original packaging, the beers will not freeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20841" LastActivityDate="2022-12-22T22:27:41.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25994" CreationDate="2022-12-24T06:52:56.777" Score="1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has been a long pain to remove tubes from CO2 regulators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To install the Kegerators for event we use C02 cylinder and regulators. After event to dismantle everything we always face issues related to removing that red tube from regulators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone has an easy way to remove it? &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fJVfi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fJVfi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18436" LastActivityDate="2022-12-24T12:00:45.003" Title="How to remove tubes from co2 regulators" Tags="|beer|co2|kegerator|tubing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25993" CreationDate="2022-12-24T12:00:45.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had pretty good luck removing stuck hose with a heat gun or a hair dryer.  Another option to consider is convert to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/duotight-pushin-fitting-8-mm-516-14-flare.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Duotight gas fitting&lt;/a&gt; and use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homefermenter.com/products/duotight-removal-tool-and-tube-cutter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;removal tool&lt;/a&gt; to simply detach the hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2022-12-24T12:00:45.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-05T16:34:34.073" Score="1" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;So recently I've been getting into fermenting in kegs and if I'm not going to dry hop (I would want to transfer away from the dry hopped hops to avoid grassy flavours), should I bother transferring into another keg after fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be noted I have a floating dip-tube and normally cold crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after the crash could I just carb the keg up to the desired levels, rest for a few days/week(s) and drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that leaving it on the trub for a really long extended time can create off flavours but the beer is going to be drunk in under 2 months. I've read about people that have left it on the trub longer than that with no off flavours, although beer isn't around long enough for me to test that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a recent clawhammer supplies youtube video where they announce their new XL fermenting keg they talk about serving in the same keg as fermenting in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts? Bad idea? Good idea? Has anyone done this and if so what are your experiences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17703" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T09:43:25.007" Title="Fermenting in a keg - should I bother transferring after fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|keg|corny-keg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25995" CreationDate="2023-01-05T17:59:44.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the reasons to leave fermenting beer on the yeast is to allow the yeast some time to remove diacetyl, at a slightly elevated temperature above starting fermentation temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For commercial breweries that may have 3BBL or 90BBL systems, there is an interest in getting the beer off the yeast in a timely manner since there is concern of autolysis in those circumstances. But, this concern is a  matter of scale. The current understanding is that beer in a home brew five gallon fermenter does not impart enough weight on the yeast cake for this to be a serious factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a &lt;a href=&quot;https://brulosophy.com/2019/03/18/impact-of-extended-time-in-primary-fermentation-vessel-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brulosophy article&lt;/a&gt; on extended yeast contact discusses this, however the author mentions root cause was inconclusive. A significant number of testers were able to identify something different between the two beers tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, ymmv. One downside of serving in your fermentation keg (if it is a corny keg) is you will need to wait a couple months to harvest any yeast for a re-pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of subjective note: I have left my beer on the yeast for a month before racking/kegging and haven't noticed a difference. I do find when fermenting cider however, off flavors are reduced considerably when racking the cider into secondary to age and stabilize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yeast harvesting isn't a concern, I'd just go for it. If you notice anything funky starting to develop, you could possibly rack into another keg and see if it goes away. Much of homebrewing is subjective preference anyway. Just look at the spectrum of hop preference for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastEditorUserId="18216" LastEditDate="2023-01-06T09:43:25.007" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T09:43:25.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18724" CreationDate="2023-01-06T18:58:05.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I'm late to this discussion (by many years), but I use bentonite for a lot of different beer and wine products.  If used in the correct dosage and using the correct procedure, it will not strip a desired color or flavor from white wine, or light colored low protein beer.  If someone is just looking for the fastest way to get from fermentation to the bottle/keg, they might want to invest in a good filtering system.  Filtering is expensive and bentonite is practically free.  You just have to wait a few more weeks with bentonite.  A few words of advice:  Never use more than the recommended dosage (3 to 9 grams per 5 gallons of product), Don't use bentonite on red wine, don't use it on hazy NEIPA's, and don't use it in any high protein beer (wheat beers etc.).  Follow those guidelines and you should be fine.  And remember, patience is the key to good wine and beer making.  Patience and cleanliness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20868" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T18:58:05.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25964" CreationDate="2023-01-06T19:18:10.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a red wine and the must is pushing open the lid, there is no concern here.  Wineries often times purposely open ferment (using a breathable lid) for red wine.  Also, you may need to punch down the bag several times per day.  This is completely normal for fermenting grapes as apposed to juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20868" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T19:18:10.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-17T18:52:40.073" Score="1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently tried fermenting pure apple juice. I didn't add sugar to reach my goal for ABV. I took enough juice out to use to make a starter, but my yeast was weak. It was close to expiration, so I added fermax and other boosters and rehydrated the yeast. After pitching this into the main must, I let it sit for 60 days to be sure all the sugar was used up. When I racked the cider, I checked the alcohol level and it read around 5% alcohol content. It has a bold, rich flavor because I used zero water, but it's weaker than I expected. Can I pitch fresh yeast to bring the alcohol content up to 10+%?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13288" LastEditorUserId="16971" LastEditDate="2024-02-20T12:48:03.297" LastActivityDate="2024-03-21T13:03:45.443" Title="Under fermentation" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|cider|attenuation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26001" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26003" CreationDate="2023-01-21T21:23:35.700" Score="2" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0BNNQTYW4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this refractometer&lt;/a&gt; for use in brewing hard cider.  The recipe I'm using involves adding sugar and then boiling down the juice by about 1/3.  After reducing the liquid, the specific gravity is above the maximum (1.120) for this refractometer; there's no blue in the eyepiece at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My [got C's in high school chemistry in the 1970s] brain thinks that if I mix equal parts test liquid and deionized water, then double whatever is to the right of the decimal, I should arrive at the correct measurement.  For example, if the 1:1 diluted liquid measures 1.096, the undiluted S.G. would be 1.192.  Is this right, or am I nuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20903" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T10:50:27.077" Title="Method to measure specific gravity above refractometer range?" Tags="|cider|specific-gravity|measurements|refractometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26004" CreationDate="2023-01-23T15:05:52.293" Score="2" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started a batch of Vimto turbo cider yesterday (22/01/23). It's currently very cold in the UK and I'm concerned the low temperature will negatively impact the brew. I've got the fermentation bin on two towels to keep it off the cold kitchen tile floor. The thermometer strip on the bin is showing 14°C at 1PM but this will drop overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I keep it above 10°C overnight without an electric blanket? I've thought about hot water bottles but have read that spikes in the temperature during the fermentation will cause problems with the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T14:08:23.270" Title="Regulating Temperature of Cider Fermentation" Tags="|cider|fermentation-temperature|temperature-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26001" CreationDate="2023-01-25T10:50:27.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe your idea is correct.  I would have recommended exactly the same technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T10:50:27.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26002" CreationDate="2023-01-25T14:08:23.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find a solution so bit the bullet the purchased a heat pad. Was about £20 on Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T14:08:23.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16284" CreationDate="2023-02-01T00:54:39.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a Czech pilsner last winter. I left it in the primary fermenter for fermentation at 50 degrees for 3 weeks, did the diacetyl rest for 2 days at 65 degrees, took the hydrometer reading, then used corn sugar for bottling. I then carbonated them at 55 degrees for three weeks. Then they were lagered for 6 weeks at ~34 degrees. I compared them to another good commercial Czech lager and it was very close in flavor. Everyone loved it. I’m doing a bock beer this winter. Will follow the same process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20942" LastEditorUserId="20942" LastEditDate="2023-02-01T00:55:10.840" LastActivityDate="2023-02-01T00:55:10.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-09T17:28:17.830" Score="0" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im making a recipe to brew a czech lager,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;im planning to do a triple decction mash, but i see many opinions about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not work as a decoction in Bohemian Pilsner because it is much modified. Do you test the comparison and see differences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it make a difference to make it like Bohemian Pilsner? Because where I live I don't have access to the Floor Bohemian&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15152" LastActivityDate="2023-02-10T12:00:28.630" Title="Decoction Weyermann Bohemian Pilsner vs Malte Pilsen Floor Bohemian" Tags="|malt|lager|specialty-malt|base-malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26007" CreationDate="2023-02-10T12:00:28.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can decoct with modern malts such as the standard Weyermann Bohemian Pilsner malt.  Just expect your efficiency and your attenuation to be very high, both with percentages in mid to upper 80s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The modern Floor Malt is likewise highly modified.  I have struggled to find ANY widely available malt that is undermodified and thus suitable for decoction.  It would be a rare find in the 21st century -- there simply is not enough demand for it from modern brewers.  Brewers who are interested in decoction will tend to use Floor Malt... but what they likely do not realize is that it is nearly as highly modified as any other malt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2023-02-10T12:00:28.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3293" CreationDate="2023-02-12T03:59:55.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Distaticus.var of Saccharomyces will consume the long chain sugar. Look for a saison yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20972" LastActivityDate="2023-02-12T03:59:55.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2023-02-14T06:49:11.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old thread but for those googling the same as I am right now, I fermented kellerbier (2x5 gallon batches) 1 batch was in primary for a very short time 7 days, the second sat for 75 days in primary(I got busy and all online forums said it would be fine or may even improve, so in the name of &amp;quot;science&amp;quot; I proceeded). Differences were only in the taste, the younger beer was drastically less yeasty and mildly more malty, the aged beer was a little drier and 2-3 times more yeasty, I like yeast so im okay with it, but to most people... Lets just say I will be drinking this keg and offering it to hefeweizen lovers. Not a bad thing, just a clearly noticeable difference, and for a beer that was a massive hit, a mild disappointment. Lesson learned, experiment complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20976" LastActivityDate="2023-02-14T06:49:11.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-17T11:49:41.260" Score="0" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased EVA Barrier Beer Line and DuoTight disconnects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the problem arises when I am trying to do the closed transfer from my fermenter as it's tap is not compatible with the EVA Barrier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fermenter Tap is a barb type hence not sure how to connect with hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see the pictures&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nsiux.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nsiux.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SX621.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SX621.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18436" LastActivityDate="2023-02-19T16:11:30.080" Title="Barb adapter with EVA Barrier Hose" Tags="|beer|fermenter|berliner-weisse|closed-transfer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26011" CreationDate="2023-02-19T16:11:30.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could replace the barb with something more suitable.  One possibility: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/flarem14xmnpt12.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; 1/2&amp;quot; NPT to 1/4&amp;quot; flare adaptor, plus a swivel flare fitting such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/fflbarb14.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; (EVAbarrier can be softened in hot water and pre-expanded with an awl, pliers, a pen cap to then fit over the swivel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20986" LastActivityDate="2023-02-19T16:11:30.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-22T16:22:42.693" Score="1" ViewCount="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from Northern Brewer, where on line can I find organic malt?  I can usually get organic base malt at my LHBS, but sources for crystal and other malts seem to have largely dried up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20987" LastActivityDate="2023-02-24T23:23:39.920" Title="Organic malt sources" Tags="|malt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26013" CreationDate="2023-02-24T23:23:39.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Weyermann BIOLAND organic specialty malts might be out of stock everywhere.  Distributor BSG has several websites, on their BSG craftbrewing site they list 13 Weyermann organic base and specialty and caramel malts, but on the BSG handcraft site they list just pils, rye and Vienna.  BSG has a Find a Retailer page, too, so you could call around.  Maybe BSG would answer an email or phone call asking whether they expect one of their retailers might have stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17912" LastActivityDate="2023-02-24T23:23:39.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24855" CreationDate="2023-02-24T23:53:02.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do with my recipe to avoid this alcolol taste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a big starter, oxygenate generously, and ferment on the cool side.  #1 thing you can do is have healthy, happy, hungry yeast.  I've made DIPAs and impys over 10% that weren't boozy at all.  WLP001 has worked well for me.  Really clean, and high ABV tolerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For regular strength beers I sometimes skip the starter and use two sachets of dry yeast, such as US05 for a pale ale, activating it with the proper temp water, not just tossing dry powder into the primary.  Before I was temperature controlled, I put the fermenter in a corner in the basement. Once I had temperature control I set for 63F (unless I know a certain yeast will give up early that low, then turn up as high as 68). The fermenting beer will generate a lot of heat internally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to ferment over 70F, make a style that lends itself to tortured yeast, one that's supposed to have a tang or aroma to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17912" LastActivityDate="2023-02-24T23:53:02.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-27T11:53:15.287" Score="3" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;What differences should i expect when making wine with fresh mushed fruits and water instead of juice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only tried making wine with juice before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will i need to filter it when racking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20665" LastActivityDate="2023-03-14T20:28:26.467" Title="Making wine with fruits?" Tags="|fermentation|wine|racking|filtering|fruit-wine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26016" CreationDate="2023-02-28T17:11:17.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might need to condition it for longer and use finings to clarify it. Adding pectolase could also help as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on the fruit you're using as well. There's a lot of documentation online if you search. CitySteading Brews on YouTube have made plenty of videos on homebrew using fruit so that's a starting place for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck with it mate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2023-02-28T17:11:17.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9434" CreationDate="2023-02-28T18:17:01.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;CO2 Regulator knobs are counter intuitive for 1st time users.&#xA;When you &amp;quot;close it&amp;quot; like a faucet clockwise in fact you are adjusting a screw/pushing a pin that allow more CO2 flow.&#xA;Short: Try twisting all the way counter clockwise.&#xA;If it still fails, have your reg checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21002" LastActivityDate="2023-02-28T18:17:01.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25964" CreationDate="2023-03-01T01:59:55.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;if its from normal co2 production i would put an air lock in the lid if that should  fix the issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21005" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T01:59:55.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27020" CreationDate="2023-03-01T09:40:27.393" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does &lt;a href=&quot;https://mangrovejacks.com/products/californian-lager-m54-yeast-10g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mangrove Jacks M54 Californian Lager&lt;/a&gt; yeast behave in lower than recommended (18-20°C) temperatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fermentation temperature is around 16-20°C. I've read everywhere that fermenting at higher temperatures leads to off flavours and odours. But is that also true for fermentation at lower temperatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current setup: NC Keg with floating dip tube and pressure release valve (set to 15 psi)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21004" LastActivityDate="2023-03-03T16:48:27.410" Title="Fermenting Mangrove Jacks M54 at lower temperatures?" Tags="|fermentation-temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26020" CreationDate="2023-03-03T16:48:27.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a typical lager yeast- you would ferment closer to 10-12c. Typically with lower temperatures off flavors are not the bigger issue- rather it's more about yeast health and pitch rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, from the description of this particular yeast- I'm not sure this is a &amp;quot;traditional&amp;quot; lager yeast. It appears to be for brewing Steam beers (California Common) which are indeed fermented inbetween lager and ale temps. You most likely could ferment it at lower temps with no real issues, but you may need to pitch extra yeast to account for the cooler environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2023-03-03T16:48:27.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-03T20:55:21.840" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will Rhizopus Oligosporus Mold Die When Frozen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to start a Tempeh business. I know that Gunther Pfaff (Betsy's Tempeh) used to pasteurize their tempeh at 180ºF to kill the Rhizopus Oligosporus mold and spores before packaging. I'm wondering if freezing my freshly made, vacuum packed tempeh prior to sale will have the same effect. I don't like the idea of partially cooking my tempeh prior to selling it. If I must however that is what I'll do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, steffan Heydon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22010" LastEditorUserId="22010" LastEditDate="2023-03-03T21:29:54.077" LastActivityDate="2023-03-04T23:46:01.913" Title="Will Rhizopus Oligosporus Mold Die When Frozen?" Tags="|fermenter|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2023-03-27T02:55:51.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2023-03-04T11:04:50.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a coconut stout in my 50 liter fermenter. If 18 Brix current gravity 7brix, 1,001 on day six. I expect it to go negative. Dry yeast 04.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22012" LastActivityDate="2023-03-04T11:04:50.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27021" CreationDate="2023-03-04T23:46:01.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best tempeh is fresh tempeh although it has no shelf life (about 3 days)making it difficult to maintain a business the next best tempeh is frozen, after the tempeh is finished fermenting it should be frozen right away at -5 degrees in a freezer. I’ve been making tempeh commercially for 15 years glad to answer any questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22014" LastActivityDate="2023-03-04T23:46:01.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10233" CreationDate="2023-03-10T14:48:57.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A guy in you tube hit 50psi but the cap kept leaking. I am searching for the answer to the same question. Seems like there are a lot of people here who like to give an answer even through they don't have the slightest clue. Better not to speak and be thought a fool than to...anyway. Just for the record in youtube there are several tested who all hit 150 psi with coke and pepsi and 200psi with mountain dew but that is different. In pipes the larger the diameter the less the max PSI. good luck on your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22026" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T14:48:57.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26016" CreationDate="2023-03-14T20:28:26.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Watch the Cap&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mashed fruit floats, so it can form a &amp;quot;cap&amp;quot; on the top of the container - this can trap CO2 in your fermentation vessel, which can make the yeast unhappy and produce off flavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can punch down the cap periodically to let the CO2 out, or I like to use a (sanitized) mesh bag to keep the mashed fruit together, which generally leaves the edges of the vessel clear for CO2 to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Don't Filter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filtering mixes in a bunch of oxygen, which is terrible for your wine. Just give the sediment time to settle before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20451" LastActivityDate="2023-03-14T20:28:26.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27035" CreationDate="2023-03-23T16:12:36.877" Score="0" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a turbo cider with 3L apple juice from concentrate, 500ml of elderflower cordial and 750ml elderflower pressé. None contained preservatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the cider yeast as instructed on the packet, added a very strong cup of tea and did not add any sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took 9-11 days to ferment and I bottled it today but I think it's spoiled. There is a vinegary taste to it but I'll see if conditioning it will help. I know it's hopeful but I've got nothing to lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, have you used a pressé before in this context? What did you do differently when using it? And was the outcome any different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastEditorUserId="20409" LastEditDate="2023-03-23T16:18:57.693" LastActivityDate="2023-04-14T01:48:04.437" Title="Making turbo cider with pressé" Tags="|fermentation|cider|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27075" CreationDate="2023-03-27T02:59:22.310" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about venturing into smoothie sours, but after doing a bit of reading it seems that keeping them shelf stable is a challenge. It also seems that canning is one of the only ways to actually produce them because of the thickness and nature of the fruit puree which may simply become impossible to rinse from a bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know what the key guidelines are on how to package and store smoothie sours considering there are a lot of fermentables still left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastEditorUserId="22064" LastEditDate="2023-04-08T23:40:59.370" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T03:33:04.607" Title="Looking at brewing smoothie sours - is there a pasteurization process and are cans a must for them?" Tags="|packaging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="189" CreationDate="2023-03-29T23:51:21.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used 2 litre PET plastic bottles for many years, and would never even consider using a brush inside them, for reasons previously mentioned.&#xA;I discovered quite early on, that a small amount of THIN bleach in cold water (fill the bottle to the brim with cold water; screw the cap on; leave to sterilise) is the best way to sterilise your PET bottles.&#xA;I just make sure to rinse in fairly warm water, and I have never had a problem with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22066" LastActivityDate="2023-03-29T23:51:21.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-07T14:03:18.357" Score="2" ViewCount="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently purchased a home brew kit from Brooklynbrewshop.com and I have a question on the mashing process defined in the instructions.  So it says that I am to place the malt into a pot of 170 degree water, mix and then keep it between 144-152 degrees.  It says to take the mash on and off the heat in order to keep the temp.  However I feel like whenever I take the pot off the heat, the mash has an inconsistent temperature throughout and I can never seem to get the temperature even.  How much are you allowed to stir the mash while in this process?  How do you keep the temperature consistent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also doing all of this on a stove and in an apartment.  I have literally just started as well so I only have the equipment from the starting kit and I don't want to dive in too deep right off the bat and then lose interest too quickly.  Lol.  Any tips would be appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22078" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T23:45:28.957" Title="Starting out with brooklyn brew shop starting kit" Tags="|all-grain|mash|first-time-brewer|beginner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27031" CreationDate="2023-04-08T23:45:28.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trick here is to stir almost constantly when you're heating to get the temperature as evenly distributed in the pot as possible. Only then will you get accurate readings. This is a bit easier if you don't heat too fast, but of course in a step infusion you want to get to the right temperatures and not extend the previous temperature's rest too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually it boils down to get to know your setup / system, and find out through experience how you need to set your stove at which step of the process, when to put on a lid and when to leave it off, when you need to stir more and when you can relax a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, and don't worry: you will end up with beer, even if you don't hit all the numbers perfectly fine. Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T23:45:28.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-09T13:27:29.177" Score="1" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;NE style pale ale, OG 11.5P (1046), hit FG around day 7, 3.1P (1012) for 75% attenuation, which is the low end of the strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First time fermenting under pressure, kept at around 0.6bar as of day 3, then to 1.6bar on day 5 when 2P away from FG to 100% carb naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m at day 14 now and there are still a stream of tiny fine bubbles coming out of the spunding valve. The sight glass still shows yeast activity with CO2 bubbles carrying yeast up and things swirling around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Been waiting around 5 or so days for this activity to subside but it just keeps going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it could be 1) it’s still fermenting, 2) it’s infected and I’m seeing bacterial activity and 3) due to being fully carbed co2 is coming out of suspension and is giving the appearance of active fermentation and carrying yeast up and down the vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone ever experienced this and concluded what could be happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just set the temp to 4c serving temp as it almost has to be either theories 2 or 3 above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22083" LastEditorUserId="22083" LastEditDate="2023-04-09T16:45:38.020" LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T04:10:50.467" Title="Yeast appears active after 14d but, could it be done? (WLP077)" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-13T09:26:38.683" Score="1" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a Hopback (sort of DIY). Found this on the interwebz:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nukzn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nukzn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wondering if 40 micron (approx. 350 mesh) which comes with this filter is not too fine of a filter for a hopback?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I use something like the below in the filter housing instead:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VdGT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VdGT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22091" LastEditorUserId="22091" LastEditDate="2023-04-19T08:43:52.830" LastActivityDate="2024-01-14T11:02:30.377" Title="Hopback filter mesh size (microns)" Tags="|hops|filtering|hopback|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27027" CreationDate="2023-04-13T14:45:26.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After about 10-14 days of conditioning the vinegar taste disappeared. I had to backsweeten with some more elderflower cordial because it was a little bit too dry for me. The flavour was good however. I'll leave the rest of it to condition longer, hopefully to the point of not needing the backsweetening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2023-04-13T14:45:26.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27033" CreationDate="2023-04-14T01:37:56.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 14 days, it's most likely done and #3 is your best bet. The best way to tell for sure is take two gravity readings a few days apart. If it hasn't changed, fermentation is finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2023-04-14T01:37:56.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27027" CreationDate="2023-04-14T01:48:04.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to experiement with different yeasts. Also, take care you are ferementing within the temperature range for your yeast. Weird things happen when you get too cold or too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first few batches of cider were fermented with Cider House Select Premium Cider Yeast and I didn't care for it. I managed to get band-aid, sulfur and butterscotch over a few batches.  Letting the stuff age for about a month or so cleared it up but after trying some other yeast I had much better results. Safale SO4 was one which produced drinkable cider right off the yeast with no weird aromas or flavors. It's really a matter of preference however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention it, so be sure to stablize your cider when you backsweeten or you can kick off fermentation again with the additional sugars. Nothing worse than a gallon jug blowing up and throwing cider all over the basement at 3am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2023-04-14T01:48:04.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27039" CreationDate="2023-04-14T08:10:55.437" Score="1" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will it be possible to calculate the ABV of some sloe wine that I've brewed, if I measured the gravity, needed to add a known amount of sugar solution, and then measured the gravity at the end of fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started with 4600mL of sloe wine, which had an original gravity of 1095. It went into a demijohn with an airlock, and continued to ferment. When it was done, I racked it into a demijohn that was 5000mL to clear, and had to top it up with some sugar solution (1 part sugar boiled in 3 parts water). I &lt;em&gt;didn't&lt;/em&gt; measure the gravity at this point. After a couple of months it was clear enough to bottle, and I measured the gravity as 1005 at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I know the volume and could find out the gravity of the sugar solution, will it be possible to work out the ABV of final wine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20261" LastActivityDate="2023-04-15T00:57:05.697" Title="Calculating ABV after adding sugar solution" Tags="|alcohol-content|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27038" CreationDate="2023-04-14T10:10:27.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A gravity reading is derived from the differences in gravity between where fermentation started (OG), and where it ended(FG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you need both numbers to get an accurate gravity reading. The good news is, you now have a reason for some friends to come by and play &amp;quot;guess the gravity&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the best way to handle the situation next time is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;A) gravity reading before primary fermentation&#xA;B) gravity reading after primary fermentation&#xA;C) gravity reading after adding sugar solution (secondary ferment)&#xA;D) gravity reading after secondary fermentation&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using A for your OG, you would add to it, the difference of C - D. This is your new OG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B and D will most likely be the same value so use that as you FG. If they are not (yeast stressed, old, etc) you can adjust your FG similar to how the OG was adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if using a refractmeter for taking gravity, there is a correction factor you need to figure in once alcohol is present in the solution. This is the case for beer, I'm not sure about wine. Probably the same principle: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brewersfriend.com/how-to-determine-your-refractometers-wort-correction-factor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brewersfriend.com/how-to-determine-your-refractometers-wort-correction-factor/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastEditorUserId="18216" LastEditDate="2023-04-15T00:57:05.697" LastActivityDate="2023-04-15T00:57:05.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27034" CreationDate="2023-04-14T10:37:44.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you using your hopback for flower hops or pellet hops? For flower hops this seems fine, for pellet hops it is too coarse. 300-400 micron is what I find on diverse homebrew forums, for handling pellet hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2023-04-14T10:37:44.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-16T18:58:37.733" Score="-1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have started my first batch of homebrew sake about 9 days ago, following this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3ep5XGdV9I&amp;amp;ab_channel=TheBruSho&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3ep5XGdV9I&amp;amp;ab_channel=TheBruSho&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have basically did everything the same with the following differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have no access to polished rice, so i have used quality glutonious rice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I did not used lalvin EC-1118 is have used 71b yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My fermenter is 16 liters instead of a 10 liter one shown on the video, so i have around 10 liters of free space over the mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything else is basically the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fermenter is in the basement in 14Celsius (around 60F) temperature with the batch for about a week. My problem is that i gave it a taste today and its very sour (don not taste or smells like vinegary as far as i can tell). Unfortunately no bubbling, no sweetness at all, and no airlock activity...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did I do wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My Koji rice turned our very nicely. It was clean, fluffy and active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I sanitized everyting nultiple times with IO-Star sanitizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I was really aware of the temperatures, to cool down everything before combining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that this is normal. Any idea what did go wrong? Or any solution to fix this if possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22103" LastEditorUserId="22103" LastEditDate="2023-04-16T19:00:24.650" LastActivityDate="2023-05-18T14:02:10.247" Title="Question of a first time Sake hombrew. 1 week in fermentation and sake tastes sour" Tags="|sour|sake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11855" CreationDate="2023-04-18T03:22:16.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My homebrew stock was running low, so I cut corners: I bottled my brew and was able to drink it immediately without using priming sugar, and without waiting weeks for bottle conditioning, simply by pumping CO2 into it using a Sodamaker, and it works!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a similar time-saving / cost-cutting theme:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t know if any Sodamaker users have baulked&#xA;at the cost of Sodamaker cylinder refills, but there are much cheaper alternatives!&#xA;You will need to look online to find out how you can refill your 400/425gm CO2 cylinders [by purchasing a larger food grade CO2 donor cylinder], and refilling your Sodamaker cylinders for a fraction of the cost of what you would normally expect to pay!&#xA;From a, for example, 6.5kg CO2 donor cylinder, you can fill up to 15 x 400g/425g cylinders for ~$2.00 per cylinder compared to the ~$16.00 per 400/425g cylinder refill that [they] are demanding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m writing from a British perspective, so I don’t know the prices you are looking at, but anyway, you get the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22066" LastActivityDate="2023-04-18T03:22:16.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27043" CreationDate="2023-04-18T13:49:38.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Offhand, it sounds like your brew has a bacterial infection. You say the sourness doesn't have a vinegar quality (which makes sense since acetobacter requires oxygenation to oxidize ethanol into acetic acid). That pretty much leaves lactic acid bacteria, typically lactobacillus or pediococcus. Does the sourness remind you of buttermilk or yoghurt? Get some lactic acid from your local homebrew supplier for comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any form of sourness that is not intentional (e.g. when you don't intend to brew a sour beer or something similar) is typically the result of insufficient sanitation. I suggest you review and where necessary enhance your sanitation procedures. When in doubt, use chlorine and then rinse thoroughly with boiled water to eliminate any possible remaining micro-organisms. Your sanitizer may not be as effective as you think; water chemistry, sanitizer storage conditions and other factors may interfere with sanitizing. However, iodine bases sanitizers such as IO Star tend to be fairly reliable, which suggests the infection may have been introduces through one or more of your ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So eliminate sanitation protocols as a factor and try again. If you have the same (sour) result on the second attempt, one or more of your ingredients is most likely the culprit. I don't have a lot of bandwidth in my neck of the woods so I can't view the Youtube video you refer to, hence the question: did you boil the rice? If not, uncooked rice can easily introduce micro-organisms into the brew. Immersing your rice into boiling water for even a minute will greatly reduce the chances of infection via that route. Your water is a another possible source of infection but an unlikely one; if water is potable it's generally safe to brew with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/24836/why-my-sak%C3%A9-turned-out-sour&quot;&gt;Why my saké turned out sour?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, and let us know what happens!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2023-04-18T13:49:38.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25047" CreationDate="2023-04-18T13:57:13.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxidation generally produces a taste and/or aroma reminiscent of wet paper or cardboard. It also (as you already noticed) tends to affect hop character by means of oxidizing your hop compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you detect any of these on the palate, that is an indication of oxidation. j&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other way of testing for oxidation in the beer is to run it through some very expensive lab tests. Even commercial mega-breweries rarely do that; if you taste a problem with the beer that is bad enough to reject the batch you do the latter, otherwise you don't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2023-04-18T13:57:13.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27049" CreationDate="2023-04-19T06:24:27.873" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brewed my second ever batch of beer on the weekend (the first one tasted okay but was flat, I guess I didn't put enough sugar in when bottling). and I have a few questions. I'm using a 5L glass carboy and I brewed using an all-grain recipe using the BIAB technique. I bought a kit for a galaxy smash IPA which included the milled grain, hops, yeast, and a recipe card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe I am using is for 20L so I divided everything by 4. It's a bit light on in detail so I made some best guesses throughout it that I hope were right!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe says to mash @ 66C for 60 minutes then mash at 76C for 10 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how important is it to get exactly those temperatures? I was using a big pot on my gas stove and I had to keep switching the burner on and off. I maintained it within +/- 5 degrees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after I finished mashing, I sparged (optional from what I could see, but I did it anyway) and then boiled for 60 minutes, and during the boil is when I added the hops (not during mashing) - is that right?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after cooling the wort to ~25C and immediately before putting it in the carboy, I took a SG reading which was 1.052 on my floating hydrometer / 1.054 on my brixmeter. The recipe says that the OG should be 1.063. Is this difference a problem or okay? Should I still expect to reach the FG listed on the recipe (1.011)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe card said to use Kviek yeast, but the kit itself came with US-05. The recipe says to ferment for 6 days at 30C (dry hop day 3, cold crash day 6). I did the brew on the 15th and put it into my temperature controlled fridge at 30C. The next day it was fermenting away quite well, but then about 24 hours later the fermentation seems to have stopped (I dry hopped it this morning and the water in the airlock has been pushed back to one side so it must still be generating some CO2, I just can't see any activity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will using US-05 instead of Kviek yeast affect the temperature I need to ferment at, or how long I need to ferment for? I did some searching today and it looks like US-05 likes to be fermented at 19-22C, not 30C that the recipe calls for. Have I ruined my beer by fermenting at 30C for a few days? Should I change the temperature and/or how long I leave it to ferment?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the first brew I did said that I should keep it fermenting until I get the same SG reading two days in a row. Is that the rule I should always use, or should I be sticking to the 6 days this recipe calls for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe has no information about bottling. Should I just be following standard guides online for how much sugar to add when bottling or is it recipe specific?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22111" LastActivityDate="2023-04-19T11:46:55.450" Title="Few beginner questions about temps, SG and yeast" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27047" CreationDate="2023-04-19T11:46:55.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Congrats on a successful second batch!  Everything you did looks OK overall.  Specifics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   The 66C temperature is a good goal.  If you maintained within a few degrees of that, you will be in good shape.  What you want to avoid is going higher than about 73C, because at that point the enzymes will denature very quickly, especially the beta amylase which is very temperature sensitive and is responsible for high attenuation which leads to low finishing gravity (FG).  You might see a small impact on FG from temperature fluctuations, but the impact should be pretty minor in your case.  Meanwhile, the 76C step is a waste of time for homebrewers, and can safely be skipped, but doesn’t hurt (or help) anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Adding the hops during the boil is usually correct… but for an IPA you will often add most of the hops in the last ~5 minutes of the boil, or at flameout, or as dry hop additions after fermentation has begun.  If you boiled most of the hops, you might experience the ceiling limit for IBUs of about 90 IBUs, which is very bitter indeed but which won’t hurt anything as long as you enjoy very bitter beer (like some IPAs).  Later additions of the hops will improve flavor and aroma characteristics.  Consider doing that next time if you didn’t this time, along with your dry hop addition(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   If your OG was a little low, it is not a big deal, but you can expect your FG to also come out a little lower than anticipated.  Meanwhile, from first bullet above, the two effects on FG might serve to cancel each other out.  You will, however, definitely have a lower ABV than anticipated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Kveik yeast is good for high temperature fermentations &amp;gt;22C.  Other yeasts such as US-05 are less predictable in their characteristics above that temperature, might turn out OK, but might cause additional fruity esters or solventy fusel alcohols which can lead to headaches and hangovers.  I would say: it’s not ruined, but might give you headaches potentially.  If you try a non-kveik yeast in the future, keep fermentation temperature closer to 18-19C if you are able.  If you need to ferment warmer, then use a kveik yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Warm fermentations such as at 30C will tend to go VERY quickly and often done in 24-36 hours, which is what you are experiencing.  The fermentation is most likely already complete.  Why your recipe says to wait 6 days, seems to be mainly for the benefit of the dry hop charge, otherwise there would be little need to wait.  One other benefit might be clarity, it gives more time for the yeast to settle out to minimize haze.  But your batch is probably safe to bottle or keg in the next couple of days, after the dry hops have had 2-3 days to soak in.  To confirm, check the SG today, then rule of thumb is to wait another 3 days, then check again.  If SG has changed at all, then it isn’t finished, and you wait another 3 days.  If it stays constant for 3 days, then it is safe to package.  Two days in a row might be OK for kveik yeast or hot fermentations, but for standard ferments at about 18-19C, the 3-day rule is best.  So in your case… you can probably go with the 2 days in a row thing which is applicable more for kveik ferments, since you fermented warm at 30C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   I’ve bottled &amp;gt;160 batches since 1999.  What I’ve found that works best for bottle priming is: 2 tablespoons of table sugar per gallon.  Or I guess in metric that might be 1.6 teaspoons per liter.  In 4L (which is probably close to what you’ve ended up with), I would use 6.3 teaspoons or 2.1 tablespoons.  If you actually do have closer to 4.5L of actual beer volume (without dry hops and yeast/trub), then use 7.1 teaspoons or 2.4 tablespoons.  You don’t need to be this exact, but it sure doesn’t hurt.  How I usually prepare my priming sugar is to place this sugar in a glass with about 3 ounces of water, boil in the microwave for 2 minutes, then let it cool and add this to my bottling bucket and prime in bulk.  I do not recommend priming each bottle individually, that would be a pain and can be inconsistent.  I also do not recommend varying the priming sugar based on recipe or style.  Keep it simple.  No need for underwhelming or overwhelming carbonation in any style in my opinion.  The amounts I’ve specified will give you moderate carbonation every time, as long as your SG is stable, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2023-04-19T11:46:55.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7643" CreationDate="2023-04-23T05:50:52.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The faucet plugs are available on Amazon - just look for beer faucet caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s?k=beer+faucet+caps&amp;amp;me=A2PUDKB6S5DQAJ&amp;amp;ref=bnav_search_go&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/s?k=beer+faucet+caps&amp;amp;me=A2PUDKB6S5DQAJ&amp;amp;ref=bnav_search_go&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22125" LastActivityDate="2023-04-23T05:50:52.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-06T07:52:02.193" Score="1" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time kegging. I've run into an issue with a CO2 leak from the connection point between the regulator bolt and the tank. No matter the level of tightening of regulator to the tank.Even tried a different regulator. Same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached pictures of the tank and regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ikw42.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ikw42.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCPh5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCPh5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYZMs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYZMs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I maybe missing another connector or washer on either the tank or regulator? Both regulators are brand new, it's gotta be a different issue on my side. Any help will be appreciated, got some beer that needs kegging right away!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22146" LastActivityDate="2023-06-06T11:03:40.383" Title="CO2 leak at keg and regulator connection" Tags="|beer|kegging|co2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27053" CreationDate="2023-05-06T21:30:56.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a leak a couple times between the regulator and tank. Notice that inner brass part in your first pic (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uws1h.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uws1h.png&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DHpB0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DHpB0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can stick an allen wrench in there and tighten it, or loosen it. On my regulator, I use this to adjust the compression on my nylon washer. Mine had backed itself out enough one day after removing it where tightening it did not allow it to seal completely. You may want to investigate that on yours. Maybe it's bottoming out before actually sealing on the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the regulators I've own had a nylon washer (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000DZFVDS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Learn-Brew-Nylon-Washers-Regulators/dp/B000DZFVDS&lt;/a&gt;) in between the tank fitting and the regulator. Your's looks a little different, from memory, but here's a link to some other washers which are made to aid in sealing. These are single-use washers so be sure to replace it each time you swap tanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07Q5VLSD5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Regulator-Washers-Centering-Fittings/dp/B07Q5VLSD5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I can't tell from the picture, but if you don't have a check valve on the output side of the regulator, consider putting one on. When you run out of co2, there isn't enough pressure differential to keep beer out of the co2 tank. The check valve prevents this. This is an inline one, there are other styles: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/inline-check-valve.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.morebeer.com/products/inline-check-valve.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastEditorUserId="18216" LastEditDate="2023-05-07T10:36:21.930" LastActivityDate="2023-05-07T10:36:21.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27064" CreationDate="2023-05-11T15:30:20.007" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tried my first batch of Pliny the Elder after not brewing for some time,and it was a disaster. I decided to try brewing in a bag. I was a little short of beer after the fermentation. I did not check the gravity before bottling. I used the entire 5 oz of priming sugar and got 32 16 oz bottles. I let them sit for 2 weeks before trying one. When I opened the bottle, it expanded and spilled everywhere, and wouldn't stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where did I go wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22158" LastActivityDate="2023-05-31T11:37:29.090" Title="Bad Batch after a brewing break of 20 years" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|bottling|ipa|priming-sugar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27055" CreationDate="2023-05-13T15:52:44.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry to hear that, man. That really sucks. Truth is, we all have a bad batch and/or brewday now and then. It's just part of the hobby ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell from your post what specifically went wrong but some things I always ask myself when things go badly are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;was I in a rush?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;where did I cut corners and why?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what parts were frustrating?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;did I guess or estimate things?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I find some things to think about there, I usually find what I can improve on. Whether it's giving myself an extra hour for &amp;quot;just in case&amp;quot; things, or maybe improving my gear somewhere along the way, or even asking about a way to do things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I used to use pH strips because I didn't want to spend $50 on a good meter. Eventually though, the strips became too frustrating and I purchased the meter. That part of the process is much quicker, easier and less frustrating now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's helpful to go back over any notes from the brewday too. I've gotten things mixed up on recipes before and only noticed it from my notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you give it another go and better luck in the future!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2023-05-13T15:52:44.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27063" CreationDate="2023-05-19T14:21:50.013" Score="1" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on brewing a cyser using 4L of preservative free apple juice, Lalvin EC-1118 yeast and ~500g of honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you advise using a raw and unfiltered honey or just a regular off the supermarket shelf honey?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there much of a difference in the end product? Is it worth spending more for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, would you recommend adding some tea? I always do this for my other turbo ciders for tannins but have never made or tasted a cyser before so I'm unfamiliar with the taste profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2023-05-31T11:22:37.983" Title="Raw vs cheap honey for a turbo cyser" Tags="|cider|honey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27062" CreationDate="2023-05-22T20:53:07.413" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any studies? Did anyone check etc and document it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if PET plastic is safe given that the liquids fermenting inside it can contain various acids from fruits, sugars and other complex molecules- and water and alcohol which are solvents!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22186" LastActivityDate="2023-05-31T11:12:13.430" Title="Is it proven that PET does not leak into fermented alcohols?" Tags="|fermentation|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25874" CreationDate="2023-05-23T04:12:28.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like it's probably yeast rafts, from what I can see. According to City Steading Brewing (which puts out a lot of YouTube videos on homebrewing wines, ciders, and meads), if you think it might be yeast rafts but you aren't sure, swirl the must inside the jug to mix in the floaties (try not to splash). Check back in a couple of days. If the floaties don't come back, it was almost certainly yeast rafts. If the floaties do come back it may be an infection.&#xA;Also, if there are any floaties that are vibrantly colored (green, blue, etc.), definitely dump the must and sanitize all your equipment thoroughly before making a new batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22188" LastActivityDate="2023-05-23T04:12:28.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27059" CreationDate="2023-05-24T03:10:00.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any studies, but fruit juices (which also contain acids and sugars) are frequently sold in PET bottles. You can buy &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.binnys.com/spirits/vodka/smirnoff-vodka-pet-bottle-141509&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vodka in PET bottles&lt;/a&gt;. In Germany, Aldi does sell beer in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aldi-nord.de/sortiment/getraenke/bier/premium-pilsener-0312-0-0.article.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plastic bottles&lt;/a&gt;. Ukrainian beers in Germany are often sold in 1.5l plastic bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2023-05-24T03:10:00.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27059" CreationDate="2023-05-31T11:12:13.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several studies (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://hal.science/hal-00683918/document&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17707454/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) indicate that contaminants &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; leech into bottled water from the PET. Since consumption-strength alcohol typically contains at least 55% water by volume and other substances dissolve in ethanol more readily than in water, it stands to reason that this effect will occur at least as much (and likely to an even greater degree) when PET is used for packaging alcoholic beverages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, these studies make it clear that the substances detected are not the PET itself, but Non-Intentionally Added Substances (NIAS). In other words, it's contaminants in the PET that are the key here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what it boils down to is that the considerable controversy surrounding the safety of PET for these application hinges on the quality of the PET. Raw PET materials from dubious sources (typically from Asia), partially recycled PET and containers produced using less than perfect quality control can all contain substances that only a proper laboratory analysis can reveal. In other words, when you bottle in PET you don't know exactly &lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt; you're dealing with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, this problem is absolutely &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; limited to PET! Metals can leach into reverse osmosis water from stainless steel and other metals used in piping, tanks and equipment. Potable water (be it from tap or bottle) is routinely contaminated with microplastics to the point where the average person &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2022/mar/24/microplastics-found-in-human-blood-for-first-time&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;has detectable amounts of plastic in their blood&lt;/a&gt;, and you don't even want to know what's in the air you're breathing right now or in the food you're eating every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the short answer is &amp;quot;Yes, contaminants may leach out of PET bottles into your alcoholic beverage,&amp;quot; but how worried should you be about that in comparison to every other bodily contamination that we are being exposed to every day of our lives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PET is generally considered safe for packaging water beer, wine and vodka, and it has been in use for decades. Today about 1.5 billion (!) bottles are produced and used for that purpose &lt;em&gt;every day&lt;/em&gt;. If this constituted a significant health hazard, we'd know about it by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the take-away is that using good quality PET should be nothing to worry about. With dodgy PET, though, you're off the map - here there be dragons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2023-05-31T11:12:13.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27058" CreationDate="2023-05-31T11:22:37.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheap honey is usually cheap for a reason. Check the label - it may contain artificial ingredients (e.g. various sugar syrup blends, flavorings, colorants). Be especially careful with anything labeled &amp;quot;product of China&amp;quot;. While China does produce good quality honey, many supermarket products are blends, which means &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theguardian.com/business/2021/nov/28/bee-aware-do-you-know-what-is-in-that-cheap-jar-of-honey&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;they can be dodgy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a good end product, you must start with good ingredients. Artificial honey may behave unpredictably in a fermentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, trying it is the best way to find out what will happen. A pair of side-by-site mini fermentations (I use 2 liter soda bottles for such experiments) should give you a decent comparison between the effect that different ingredients have on your end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2023-05-31T11:22:37.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27055" CreationDate="2023-05-31T11:37:29.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gushers (the kind where you have to mop your beer off the ceiling after opening the bottle) can only have a few possible causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottling too early. You did not check the gravity before bottling in order to make sure fermentation was complete, so this is definitely a possibility.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much priming sugar. The amount you say you used (5 oz sugar for 32 * 16 oz of beer, i.e. 4 gallons) will give you about 3.2 volumes of CO2, which is at the very high end of the scale and typically only used for the highly carbonated wheat beers. So the overly generous amount of priming  is definitely part of your problem. Add to this that Pliny has a high hop content, which is foam-positive, and you're almost guaranteed to have foam eruptions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contamination. Bacteria or wild (diastaticus) yeasts ending up in the beer as a result of incorrect sanitation (not impossible when you dust off your brewing equipment after a long brewing hiatus!) may cause otherwise unfermentable sugars to break down and ferment in the bottle. However, this is characterized by off-flavors that are usually very pronounced and if you don't have any funny flavors this can generally be ruled out as cause.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So take your pick... :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2023-05-31T11:37:29.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-06T03:25:08.233" Score="2" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for ideas and suggestions from fellow home brewers out there for a decent, easy 1 gallon home brew recipe for a pineapple Pale ale that is not close enough to be an IPA and somewhat golden in color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19275" LastActivityDate="2023-06-11T15:09:28.323" Title="Looking for a 1 gallon Pineapple Pale Ale recipe" Tags="|beer|all-grain|ale|pale|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27065" CreationDate="2023-06-09T15:27:01.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an IPA recipe by Scott Janish which I really, really like:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://scottjanish.com/west-coast-ipa-recipe-2/#comment-157179&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://scottjanish.com/west-coast-ipa-recipe-2/#comment-157179&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know your looking for ideas for a Pale Ale so if I were going for that, I would plug this recipe into Brewfather and tweak it down into the Pale Ale range. Then swap out the Centennial for some BRU-1 (pineapple character) and see how it looks. Probably add some BRU-1 in the dry hop too, but not a lot. Brewfather seems spot on when calculating IBU which should be around 20-50 depending on if you're going American or English (&lt;a href=&quot;https://legacy.bjcp.org/2008styles/style08.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://legacy.bjcp.org/2008styles/style08.php&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get a nice citrus character from this recipe, almost grapefruity along with some really subtle mango and passion fruit aroma. I think it would work well with the BRU-1. Might be a place to start with some gallon batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2023-06-09T15:27:01.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-11T04:47:50.797" Score="1" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made some homemade wine and I believe I didn't add enough sugar because it reads 0 alcohol. My question  is my wine has been strained and transferred into clean jars and dead yeast gone. If I take my &amp;quot;finished&amp;quot; alcohol free wine (wasn't trying to make alcohol free) and start the process over again, fruit, yeast, MORE sugar then last time and some water to top it off and start fermentation with it would it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22234" LastActivityDate="2023-08-03T16:57:42.773" Title="If i add more fruit, yeast and sugar can i re make wine?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|wine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27065" CreationDate="2023-06-11T15:09:28.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, here goes... First off, do you really want to make just one gallon?  Rethink that, I would suggest a minimum of 3 gallons (for big beers), and 5 for typical strength (like a Pale Ale).  What if you really like it?  1 gallon will be gone in a short afternoon. Plus, with a small batch, any defect will be amplified, and it's less reproducible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways to do fruit beer: add fruit right at the end of the boil, or add &lt;em&gt;pasteurized&lt;/em&gt; fruit to the secondary.  As you specified 'easy' we'll explore the first method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pineapple: Pineapple and other citrus-sy fruits have a bit of a bite, so you'll probably use less than you would with blueberries or apricot.  3/4 lb per gallon of batch volume would be a good starting point.  Also, pineapple , by weight, is roughly 10% sugar (fructose mainly), which you'll need to account for to get your OG where you want it.  You'll add it to the last minute of the boil to effectively sterilize it.  But don't boil longer than that or you're liable to get pectin in your beer.  Cut it up and chuck it in a blender to pulp it (you don't need to turn it into a smoothie -- just nicely chopped up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grain: Typical pale ale grain bill.  As you said 'golden', stay away from any darker crystal, and no roasted.  Use the same amount of crystal you would ordinarily use, but a shade lighter.  Also, the lighter crystal will let more pineapple flavor shine through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops: Typical pale ale hops (The C-hops, Cascade, Centennial, Columbus, Chinook). Avoid citrus-sy hops -- you want your citrus from the pineapple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe (for 2.5 gallons, 1.055 OG, scale as you need to)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mash the following at 152* for at least 60 mins...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4.5 lb Pale 2-row malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 oz 20L Crystal malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 oz Munich malt (light)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For extract, use 3 lb Light Dry Extract instead of the Pale Malt, and steep the specialty grains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops (about 40 IBU)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.3 oz Chinook - 60 mins (13% AA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4 oz Cascade - 15 mins (5.5% AA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4 oz Cascade - 5 mins (5.5% AA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pineapple Puree: add in last minute of boil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeast: any traditional American Ale yeast will do&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ferment as normal.  You'll have more crap in the bottom of your Fermenting Vessel that normal.  I wouldn't try to reuse the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Done!  I think I'm gonna make this myself.  Inspiration...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22221" LastActivityDate="2023-06-11T15:09:28.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25520" CreationDate="2023-06-11T15:16:10.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;RDWHAHB. My bet would be that it's your lacto culture waving it's flag.  Technically, it is contamination, but one that you want for lambic.  My last lambic had similar 'bug islands' and was really good.  I think you're OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22221" LastActivityDate="2023-06-11T15:16:10.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27070" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-11T19:15:11.657" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;When calculating the SG of a hot wort so you can decide how much to dilute your wort to achieve the desired dilution and Final gravity is it correct to make the following calculation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the SG of wort at 70C to be 1040 then:-  1040*(1-0.00025)/(70-20)+1040 assuming my hydrometer is calibrated at 20C = 1060.795?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems about right but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22235" LastActivityDate="2023-06-15T11:34:28.210" Title="Adjustment of wort volume when the wort is still hot" Tags="|beer|wort|specific-gravity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27070" CreationDate="2023-06-11T20:28:00.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to leave this as comments, since it's not quite an answer, but I lack the reputation to leave comments yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to consider whether your wort is still 70C when it reaches your measuring device. Every sample might be cooling to room temperature by the time it reaches your hydrometer or refractometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading a bit about temperature correction for SG, it looks to me like it's a very long polynomial, and won't convert accurately in a linear fashion like you are trying to do. I wanted to include it here but it all the threads I found on it were disputed and vague.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also ask- are you sure you need to factor the temperature at all? An SG reading will be affected by temperature, but SG for brewing recipes is just a representation of the ratio of sugars to water. If you know how much fermentables you added, or if you can use a reading to find out how much was extracted, then you will be able to add enough water to meet the desired ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, it's not really an answer, but I hope it helps anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20772" LastActivityDate="2023-06-11T20:28:00.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27067" CreationDate="2023-06-11T20:46:09.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What did you use to get a reading of 0 alcohol?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The common method to find alcohol level is to compare how much sugar you started with vs how much is left after fermentation. Hydrometers and refractometers show a reading that represents this sugar content. There are tons of calculators on websites that will tell you the alcohol percentage based on the beginning and ending readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also different hydrometers and refractometers that are calibrated to show direct alcohol percentage, but since they use the same method as the sugar-based ones, they only work on distilled liquor- if there is any sugar in the liquid, it will throw off the reading, potentially offsetting it to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not your problem in the first place, to answer your question: no, more sugar won't help. If yeast didn't consume any sugar, it's because there was too much, or maybe the pH was too low, or they didn't have enough nutrients, or a similar problem. Adding sugar won't fix any of those issues. If you just wanted to try adding something for fun, try adding water, or some yeast nutrients (fermaid O is great) or maybe even just pour some craft beer in there, with the hopes that it already has a good balance of everything. You could pour in &amp;quot;natural&amp;quot; wine as well, but it's more expensive, and wine propbably won't provide nutrients, and needs years of age before it tastes okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20772" LastActivityDate="2023-06-11T20:46:09.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25413" CreationDate="2023-06-11T21:24:35.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thatguy is probably right- none of my meads, which use less honey, quick-fermenting beer yeasts, and nutrients to speed things up, have ever been ready in less than a month. You can try to rapidly settle out yeast by putting it in a fridge or a freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above is assuming you are taking gravity readings. Without checking, you won't know if the yeast even started fermenting anything. A batch isn't considered done until there has been no change in gravity for about a week- and sometimes it stalls for even longer than that- and there is no guarantee of visual activity even if it's still going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20772" LastActivityDate="2023-06-11T21:24:35.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26000" CreationDate="2023-06-11T21:52:46.617" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things that stood out to me: Zero Water, and lack of pH buffering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brulosophy has tested the impact of water mineral balance in its &amp;quot;exbeeriments&amp;quot;, which often dramatically invalidate some brewing steps. They repeatedly found that water mineral content is one of the most important factors in a brew. Removing all of the minerals via reverse osmosis (&amp;quot;RO&amp;quot;) as in Zero Water, can actually make it harder for the yeast to survive. Now in one test, it had no identifiable impact, but that was a beer, which has a wealth of natural nutrients that fruit juices often don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Separately, yeast fermentation causes the pH of a brew to fall (become more acidic). Beer malts naturally stabilize this effect, so the pH never goes too low, but in mead making, the honey has none of the same nutrients so the pH can drop below the level where yeast survives easily. 12+ month aging times can overcome this, but it can be prevented entirely by using an additive. K2C03 (potassium carbonate) is favorite for this, adding 1/8 of a teaspoon per pound of sugar up front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, there's not really any such thing as &amp;quot;not enough sugar&amp;quot; for fermentation. You can have too much, or so little that is has no noticeable effect, but you never need at add extra sugar to make it work in the first place. You can ferment plain apple juice if you want, provided it doesn't have yeast-killing preservatives, and has a pH and nutrient profile that yeast can handle- the final product just might not be very strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20772" LastActivityDate="2023-06-11T21:52:46.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27028" CreationDate="2023-06-11T22:19:18.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't recommend kegs enough. I resisted them for many batches, until I finally got a little 2.6gal one that fits in my fridge, and bought the hardware and co2 to charge it. Cleaning and packaging is incredibly convenient compared to bottling so unfermented slurry would no longer be a problem- provided you kept it away from the output tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kegs also unlock other techniques, like purging oxygen out with CO2 before filling, so your brew preserves much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that answers your question. For strictly can-vs-bottle, I can't think of any difference between them other than the fact that canning requires a lot of equipment and cans can't be reused. If a beer bottle doesn't hold enough pressure, just get one that does- champagne bottles are much stronger and hand corkers are cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for stopping fermentation, it's up to the brewer, but I expect one of 2 methods is used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just let the yeast ferment until they can't anymore, and package at that point, like a sweet mead or champagne.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a chemical additive like Campden tablets to kill off the yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20772" LastEditorUserId="20772" LastEditDate="2023-06-13T03:33:04.607" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T03:33:04.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27067" CreationDate="2023-06-11T22:56:51.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, it seems unlikely that you have alcohol-free wine regardless of how much sugar you added.  Fruit juice alone has plenty of sugar to produce alcohol with a ferment -- perhaps not as much as you wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be interested to know exactly what reading represented 0 alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, you could conceivably do what you suggest.  But I'd be certain I was reaching the correct conclusions from what you are reading.  Instead, take a taste of what you have.  Does it taste like the fresh juice, or does it taste more like wine? Take an SG reading.  Finished wine should be about 1.000 or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the latter, I'd leave it alone, lay it down for a while and drink young (as it may have a light alcohol content).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it still tastes like the original fruit juice (and has a high SG), then you had no ferment.  Sterilize the batch, take a SG reading, add sugar to reach your desired SG, and ferment with a lively yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is sweet and super sour -- dump it.  You likely had no ferment the first time around and your must spoiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22221" LastActivityDate="2023-06-11T22:56:51.690" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25938" CreationDate="2023-06-12T00:41:06.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never used one, but based on videos online like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Krqc_DDOsU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, you leave the valve to the collection jar &lt;strong&gt;open during fermentation&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes sense to me, since the purpose of the jar seems to be to collect the trub and remove it easily. Leaving it closed over an empty jar would just mean there is a bunch of oxygen ready to be introduced to your batch at the worst time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20772" LastActivityDate="2023-06-12T00:41:06.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25704" CreationDate="2023-06-12T01:37:05.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell, the reason people pasteurize ginger beer is to stop fermentation before it is done- not even primary. They might only want enough fermentation to add carbonation, or they want a sweet, low-alcohol final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anything fully fermented with yeast, pasteurization is considered a destructive process, driving off delicate aromatic compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that someone making a fully-fermented product might want to pasteurize if they put whole pieces of fruit/ginger inside the bottles, and they don't want yeast to slowly find more sugars inside the fruit and create more pressure than the bottle can handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of the above applies to you, there is no strong reason to pasteurize. It's generally accepted that a sealed beverage fully fermented by yeast is not vulnerable to spoilage at any temperature, let alone in a fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put fresh kegs of ginger mead in the fridge and they clear nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20772" LastEditorUserId="20772" LastEditDate="2023-06-12T01:46:09.217" LastActivityDate="2023-06-12T01:46:09.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-12T15:15:26.557" Score="0" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lalemand seems to be producing a lot of nice esthers at 22-23 degrees. I was wondering what this looks like at 30~32 degrees. Would the esthers become off-flavours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2024-02-25T20:05:00.583" Title="What's the effect of brewing with Lalemand Verdant over 23 C?" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27070" CreationDate="2023-06-13T16:04:15.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you for taking the time to answer my query. I suppose I don't need to know but it would give the advantage of diluting my wort with tap water which isn't sterile but that wouldn't concern me if I was adding it when the wort is still hot enough to kill any bacteria in the tap water. As my practice stands I don't take samples of my wort to measure SG because it risks infection. My practice is to run the wort off into a sterile bucket + lid and get it in my ice bath to cool ASAP. It usually takes 2 hours. By this time the wort is at 20C and ready to take the Final gravity. Obviously I sterilize my hydrometer to do this in the whole batch.if my mash has gone well (I average 86% mash efficiency) and my FG is too high I want to dilute it. I could use kettle water previously boiled and cooled to 20C but I actually use tap water. I gather from professional brewers that this is acceptable practice but as a biochemist I know the wort is at its most funerable stage with respect to getting infected. In practice this has never happened to one of my works but the opportunity is there. Thats why I was thinking convert to SG at a high temperature, calculate what the FG will be and dilute in a more sterile manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18748" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T16:04:15.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27087" CreationDate="2023-06-13T16:09:38.750" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a case (11 bottles with caps + 1 splash on the wall) of podpiwek and I'm slightly pissed at this moment. The instructions on the box said to fill the bottles to 3/4 of the volume and no more and after an incident with overfilled bottles of kvass I measured everything to the milliliter this time. Today it turned out that 3/4 is way too much - the podpiwek didn't even foam, it was in the bottle one moment and on the wall the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I somehow still drink this - open the bottle without the content exploding out of it and catching the content somehow? I don't want to open it cap-down, because I'm 100% sure it will knock the bottle out of my hand and whatever vessel I use to catch the drink, I'm sure it will just splash back up when pouring that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While writing this question I realized I used twice the amount of sugar and yeast I should have used. Not counting the podpiwek mix (that's there only for flavour), I have 5L of water, flat teaspoon of dry baking yeast and 600g of sugar. It was prepared and bottled on the same day, on the Sunday evening (11 Jun). Should I be terrified?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20741" LastActivityDate="2023-06-16T12:10:35.813" Title="What should I do with &quot;exploding&quot; bottles?" Tags="|carbonation|techniques|first-time-brewer|bottle-bomb|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11216" CreationDate="2023-06-13T20:53:41.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I used to ferment in the white buckets, it was not uncommon to see the airlock not doing anything -- yet the beer fermented out fine.  The white buckets are not the best for getting an airtight seal and the CO2 just leaks out where the lid fits the bucket (rather than pushing up the bell in the airlock).  That, or the little grommet in the hole on top isn't holding a seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your SG is dropping, you should be fine -- the yeast is taking care of business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22221" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T20:53:41.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27081" CreationDate="2023-06-13T21:10:07.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Step 1 - be careful.  Whatever you, do it with goggles and gloves on.  Exploding bottles are no joke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try to open them and drink them.  They may be extra yeastie and carbonated and probably not worth the risk/effort.  Do it in a sink over a large salad bowl to catch it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best bet is to throw a towel over the top of all of them, and pop the cap on them all and clean up the mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, you can shoot the bottles with a pellet gun from a safe distance (controlled detonation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbonating in the bottle is such a hassle.  Do yourself a favor and splurge on some kegging equipment.  So much easier...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22221" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T21:10:07.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27070" CreationDate="2023-06-15T11:34:28.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why you would want to dilute the wort while it's still hot. There's nothing wrong with cooling your wort first and then diluting it. I've done that all my life with partial boils. Cool the hot wort, transfer it to the fermenter, add water. Simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If contamination is your concern, simply boil and cool the water used for dilution prior to adding it to the wort. However, I have yet to encounter a problem as a result of cold wort dilution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring the SG of hot wort with a hydrometer can be done but it's a pain. Also, keep in mind that the volume of hot wort can be up to 4% larger than that of the same wort when cooled due to expansion. That means that your SG will change accordingly during cooling and you must compensate for that in your calculations on top of your hydrometer correction!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2023-06-15T11:34:28.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25938" CreationDate="2023-06-15T11:38:01.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never used one but on the basis of what I see online I would definitely leave it closed. The valve is apparently intended to dump the settled trub into the jar. When the fermenter is pressurized the pressure will help transfer the trub to the jar when the valve is opened. If you leave the valve open the jar is likely to fill with wort before the trub has settled. Also, a valve is better suited to retain pressure than a jar which I assume is removable so it can be emptied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2023-06-15T11:38:01.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27081" CreationDate="2023-06-16T12:10:35.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So here is what I did (and I'm writing this happy, with a glass of podpivek in hand):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I put all the bottles into the fridge as soon as I got the chance to do so. I put on best improvised PPE I could find in the house just in case one of the bottle was ready to explode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I bought a freezer with fast delivery option ;p&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I put one bottle of podpivek in the freezer for 20 min as a test, to make sure it doesn't freeze and break the bottle or it doesn't pop in the freezer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I went to the bathroom, PPE on, and carefully tried to open very cold bottle, hoping for a gusher instead of an instant evacuation from the bottle. I've dealt with a fountain in a bottle before and I can catch all/most of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As I pry the cap open, I hear a hiss. Instead of opening the bottle right away, I pry the cap as long as there is a sound comming from the bottle. Bubbles build up in the bottle from time to time, but I need to only flip the bottle to get rid of them. For the most of the time I can just hold a bottle and bubbles don't form, so I'm just holding it in one position, waiting for the gas to evacuate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eventually, the sound stops and as I reseal the bottle and unseal it again, I only hear a slight pop instead of a hiss. When I open a bottle, it's perfectly peacefull, not even a foam forming up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to do this with all of the bottles over the weekend and I'd guess that as long as I keep them in the fridge, they will be safe to open without sprying their content everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20741" LastActivityDate="2023-06-16T12:10:35.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17534" CreationDate="2023-06-17T18:52:36.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, diatomaceous earth can be used as a fining agent in various industries, including winemaking and brewing. As a fining agent, diatomaceous earth helps clarify liquids by removing suspended particles and solids. It works by creating a filter bed that traps impurities, resulting in a clearer and more visually appealing product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While diatomaceous earth is commonly used as a filter aid due to its porous nature, it is not typically used as a standalone filter medium. In filtration applications, it is often combined with other filter media, such as cellulose or activated carbon, to improve filtration efficiency. These additional filter media help to remove finer particles that may pass through the diatomaceous earth filter bed alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while diatomaceous earth can be used effectively as a fining agent to clarify liquids, it is generally not used as the sole filtering agent due to its limited filtering capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found most of the info on &lt;a href=&quot;https://cellarcoolerstore.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://Cellarcoolerstore.com&lt;/a&gt; if you're interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22256" LastActivityDate="2023-06-17T18:52:36.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23986" CreationDate="2023-06-18T17:25:58.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I’ve read lately, there is some use in homebrew pasteurisation for non-alcoholic/low-alcoholic beers, where alcohol does not create a hostile environment for other organisms that can spoil your beer. Additionally if you create such beers with a yeast like &lt;a href=&quot;https://fermentis.com/en/product/safbrew-la-01/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SafBrew LA-01&lt;/a&gt; your beer will also contain residual sugars that the yeast can’t digest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This yeast does not assimilate maltose and maltotriose but assimilates simple sugars (glucose, fructose and sucrose)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These beers are therefore &lt;a href=&quot;https://siwcbrewery.com/blogs/our-stories/beer-and-pasteurisation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;more at risk&lt;/a&gt; of spoiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the risk of pasteurising fully carbonated beer is the increase in pressure in the bottle during the process. You kill bacteria and other organisms by heating the beer − but it also increases pressure &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;directly&lt;/a&gt;, and indirectly by driving the CO2 out of the beer and into the head space. &lt;strong&gt;If the pressure becomes too large, bottles will start to fail, and eventually explode.&lt;/strong&gt; Once the beer cools, it will re-absorb the CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/heat-pasteurizing-and-carbonation-more-stuff.684883/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A guide on homebrewtalk.com&lt;/a&gt; summarises the situation for cider, where pasteurisation seems to be a more common process, as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat pasteurize bottled cider which is carbonated to no more than 3 Volumes of CO2&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Do this at no more than 65C-70C for 10-12 minutes then let the bottles cool down​&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be comparable for beer, as most components (CO2, yeast, headspace volume, etc.) work exactly the same. The main things that could change are how much CO2 a beverage can hold at a given temperature, and how quickly it reaches that equilibrium once it’s heated to said temperature. &lt;a href=&quot;https://beerandbrewing.com/experiment-home-pasteurization/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This beerandbrewing.com article&lt;/a&gt; is the cleanest write-up of the process for beer that I’ve found so far, but it doesn’t talk about carbonation pressure at all − just impact on flavour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17561" LastEditorUserId="17561" LastEditDate="2023-06-21T16:05:11.410" LastActivityDate="2023-06-21T16:05:11.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-20T11:22:38.660" Score="0" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about the process of using a counter-pressure bottle filler to transfer beer from my keg into bottles and how to keep the beer from being exposed to Oxygen in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.braupartner.de/Gegendruckabfueller-ohne-Adapter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this bottle filler&lt;/a&gt;. Sorry it's in German, but you should get the picture. It's the usual 4-way beer-in, beer-out, co2 in, co2 out system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the bottle is completely filled with beer I remove the tube from the bottle slowly and this causes the beer to slunk down into the bottle. Doesn't this pull oxygen into the top of the bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't enough foam at the top to protect from oxygen. Is this ok, or should I be doing something different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22264" LastActivityDate="2023-06-25T13:52:12.763" Title="Counter-pressure bottle filler and exposure to oxygen" Tags="|pressure|bottle|oxygenation|packaging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25908" CreationDate="2023-06-23T17:35:49.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this ? is a bit old, but I just got some info in this regard directly from the manufacturer.  Here's what they say...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Between 55°F and 90°F -- no adjustment is needed.  The casing of the Tilt and the air inside it contract/expand at the same rate as the wort.  As a result, in that temp range, any adjustment would be negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Outside that range, the Tilt expands/contracts &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;more&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; rapidly than the wort itself.  As a result the adjustments would be opposite those of a normal hydrometer (i.e., falsely gives a low reading for cold wort, and falsely gives a high reading for hot wort)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Below 55°F: adjust by &lt;em&gt;adding&lt;/em&gt; 1 SG pt (0.001) for every 10°F below 55°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Above 90°F: adjust by &lt;em&gt;subtracting&lt;/em&gt; 1 SG pt for every 10°F above 90°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful.  Good to know that no adjustment is needed at normal fermentation temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22221" LastActivityDate="2023-06-23T17:35:49.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-24T23:03:38.603" Score="1" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brewing a solera mead experiment at home. It's on a six month rotation, so every six months I make a new batch, let that sit for a month, and them go down the line bottling the oldest and refilling all the carboys. There are four carboys in this chain so a full two years of aging for each batch. I just finished the very first of these that I started back in Aug of 2021. I was pleased with the aroma and color but when I went to take a gravity measure and calculate out my final ABV, I ended with 6.9%. Much lower than I was hoping for. My aim was 12%-18%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recipe measurements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;.5 gal Spring Water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.5 lbs clover honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;.7 grams Lalvin-71B yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.25oz various dried herbs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OG: 1.144&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FG: 1.093&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any ideas what I may have done wrong, or what I could do to get the results I'm looking for, I would love to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22276" LastActivityDate="2023-06-27T11:19:38.223" Title="My mead has a lower ABV than I hoped" Tags="|yeast|mead|alcohol-content|alcohol|help|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27090" CreationDate="2023-06-25T13:52:12.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My filler is a bit different, but it's the same principle. What I usually do is continue filling while I'm pulling out the tube to keep the foam at the top of the neck. I have my bottle sitting in a small pale to keep mess to a minimum. Seems to work OK and I can still cap on foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2023-06-25T13:52:12.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27092" CreationDate="2023-06-26T09:15:07.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;there could be a few things that caused this. One could be that the yeast wasn't firing at 100%. It could have lacked nutrients so it wasn't able to ferment fully. There could have also been a difference in temperature from pervious brews which can make the yeast under-ferment. Lastly, there could have also been some sort of contamination which could have impacted the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll all be a bit of guesswork and you may never find out the actual reason. Sometimes it's just like that with homebrew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck with future batches :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2023-06-26T09:15:07.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27092" CreationDate="2023-06-27T11:19:38.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always try to pitch some fresh yeast or increase the temperature if your temps are on the low side now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2023-06-27T11:19:38.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2432" CreationDate="2023-06-29T14:47:27.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just made a Red Ale and added 2 cups of fresh squeezed grapefruit into the whirlpool.. Not smelling a ton of the grapefruit so I plan to dry hop with some rind for 3-5 days before bottling. My buddy says 2 cups should be more than enough but this forum has lead me to believe its a good amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22293" LastActivityDate="2023-06-29T14:47:27.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20416" CreationDate="2023-07-06T08:42:31.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are stout taps or stout nozzles ... They have a plate in them with lots of tiny little holes that the stout is forced through.&#xA;Why? ... To force the CO2 out of the stout to make it look and feel more creamy in the mouth. The way it used to look, feel and taste when beer was stored upstairs and gravity was used to dispense.&#xA;Therefore stout must be kept at very low CO2 levels.&#xA;Problem ... To push the stout through the stout tap requires pressures around 20 to 40 PSI. Much too high if using CO2 because the stout would become extremely over carbonated very quickly.&#xA;Therefore using a mix of 30% CO2 and 70% Nitrogen, which is not dissolved in the beer, will help keep the stout correctly carbonated and provide enough pressure to push the stout through the tap and give the cascading bubbles effect and produce the foam which are side effects of getting the stout to look, feel and taste the way it should. You would get the cascading bubbles with pure CO2 but not as good and too much foam and it'd take AGES to pull a good stout. (I know ... I do it every time I run out of beer mix)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guinness invented using nitro mix and stout taps when their pubs moved their beer from upstairs keg rooms to downstairs cellars and had to use gas to push their beers instead of using gravity. They found that rolling full kegs down stairs was easier and cheaper than hoisting full kegs up several floors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guinness is usually best dispensed with a 30/70 mix but other ales and stouts may be best with a 50/50 mix. Both mixes are commonly available.&#xA;There may be other mixes available as well but I've never used them.&#xA;As far as coffee is concerned, not interested. If ain't fermented don't drink it. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22310" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T08:42:31.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20416" CreationDate="2023-07-06T08:54:14.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh! and by the way don't ever use nitro mix in a soda stream type machine to make soft drink.&#xA;Extremely dangerous and would do absolutely nothing except maybe blow your head off.&#xA;What puts bubbles in soft drinks is CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22310" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T08:54:14.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16331" CreationDate="2023-07-13T05:54:50.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;VKPAK can provide labeling solutions for various wine bottles, from 18ml to 18 liter round bottles, conical bottles, square bottles, etc. We provide one-stop labeling solutions, whether you need to label a few hundred bottles a day, thousands of bottles or even tens of thousands of bottles; whether your bottles need one label, or two or more labels, whether your labels are common self-adhesive rolls, or sheets of label paper, VKPAK can provide you with the most suitable labeling solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;read more: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vkpak.com/wine-bottle-labeler.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wine Bottle Labeler&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22325" LastActivityDate="2023-07-13T05:54:50.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21898" CreationDate="2023-07-17T09:12:52.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yea, I've made it and it tastes kinda bitter, but you can still taste the tea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22341" LastEditorUserId="12182" LastEditDate="2023-07-19T13:47:42.873" LastActivityDate="2023-07-19T13:47:42.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7852" CreationDate="2023-07-19T02:46:09.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize that this question is quite old but it is an important one for people interested in this kind of fermentation that want to understand it more.  As such, I decided to add a few observations in the hopes that it may help someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both ginger bugs and traditional lacto fermentation take the natural occuring biology found on plants and provide them a hospitible environment to grow.  This includes yeast and lactobacillis bacteria.  In the case of traditional lacto fermentation unwanted biology is discouraged with salt and later acid, as the bad bacteria don't grow well with these.  I'm not etirely sure how a ginger bug does this unless the sugar content is high enough to discourage certain bacteria.  Someone else on here may be able to answer this part better then me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lacto fermentation is often accompanied by a yeast bloom on the surface indicating that both bacteria and yeast are present, and I would guess that your ginger bug and resulting ginger beer contains both as well.  I have not tried a fermented ginger beer yet.  Are they tangier than before the fermentation?  If so, that would be the lactobacillus (yeast produces alcohol and lactobacillus produces acid).  I have even seen people use ginger bugs and similar fermentation starters as the basis of low sodium lacto fermentations like sauerkraut and kimchi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine that the exact ratios of yeast to bacteria will differ depending on the source and technique of the fermentation, and it may be that ginger provides an environment that makes certain unique lactobacillus or yeast strains more prevelant.  This, however, is just speculation on my part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22347" LastActivityDate="2023-07-19T02:46:09.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-20T07:02:39.633" Score="0" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;We cut down 10-15 clusters of vine grapes straight from a vine in Mallorca, Spain in July. They are green, still hard and bitter and about half an inch size.&#xA;What procedure should I follow to make wine with these grapes? What are the best ingredients (type of sugar, yield, water, etc)? What is the most efficient  temperature for fermentation? How long should I let them ferment? Should I wait for grapes to get softer? Please advise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22349" LastActivityDate="2023-07-20T07:02:39.633" Title="How to make wine with green vine grapes?" Tags="|wine|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-29T02:28:12.847" Score="0" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had m’y fermentation going in 2 different 25liter pales. One stop fermenting 2 days before the other did, now I’m doing a test with the hydrometer and I’m reading 1.014 on both is taht okay to still run my mash ?? Also my refractometer is showing 30% alcohol on fermenting only is that even posisble ? Or it’s it off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22365" LastActivityDate="2023-07-31T10:16:42.187" Title="Testing before distilling" Tags="|fermentation|hydrometer|refractometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27112" CreationDate="2023-07-29T15:08:35.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, a couple things: you say you have a couple Pales fermenting, and for a Pale Ale an FG of 1.014 is OK (a bit toward the high end perhaps).  I'm not sure what you mean by 'run my mash' after you have fermented it out.  Please clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, your refractor showing 30% alcohol -- how is it showing that?  There's no way a Pale Ale batch would reach 30%.  All the yeast would die off long before that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, based on your hydrometer readings of 1.014, I'd say it was ready to package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22221" LastActivityDate="2023-07-29T15:08:35.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27112" CreationDate="2023-07-30T12:17:57.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really hard to answer this question as there isn't really any information here. It's completely impossible for the anyone to to determine if 30% is possible considering there is no information provided on your grist, yeast, fermentation timeline, etc. I can say it's very unlikely you'll hit 30% even with distillers yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your refractometer is primarily used for reading starting gravity and you won't get an accurate read of gravity once there is alcohol in the solution without doing some math. Use a hydrometer to measure FG and determine your alcohol by comparing this number to your SG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it &amp;quot;fine&amp;quot; to run your mash? Of course. You can distill a mash with 0% alcohol if you really wanted to. Most home distillers try to run mashes down to 0.000 so they can maximize output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without meaningful details this question cannot be answered with any more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18396" LastActivityDate="2023-07-30T12:17:57.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27067" CreationDate="2023-07-30T17:07:47.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hydrometer reading that says alcohol actually shows &amp;quot;potential ABV for the amount of sugar we think is in the liquid&amp;quot; - so your hydrometer showing 0.0 at the end is a good thing! Its means all the available sugar was converted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not always super clear, but the hydrometer reading is actually just a rough measure of the &amp;quot;stuff in the liquid that isn't water&amp;quot; (it measures the density: higher than 1.0 is assumed to be sugars, lower than 1.0 is from alcohol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a reading from the start, the hydrometer instructions should include a formula to use the start + end values to calculate estimated ABV. Alternatively, there are a bunch of calculators online where you can type in your start + end values (and if you need, a way to convert the potential ABV reading or Brix reading to the SG reading).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20879" LastEditorUserId="20879" LastEditDate="2023-08-03T16:57:42.773" LastActivityDate="2023-08-03T16:57:42.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27112" CreationDate="2023-07-31T10:16:42.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A final gravity of 1.014 is quite high for a wash intended to be distilled. So off-hand I'd say you've got an incomplete fermentation on your hands. Taste it. Does it still have a residual sweetness? Unless it's quite dry and tart without any sweetness you've got unfermented sugars left in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately you don't say what you were fermenting, but if it is a sugar wash, the most likely problem is either yeast nutrient or wash acidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sugar has nothing that the yeast can use as a nutrient. So when the yeast runs out of its internal nutrient reserves it falls flat on its face. This is why any fermentation other than full grain ones should have a good yeast nutrient added to it. (Grains already contain most or all of the required nutrients.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another main suspect is acidification of the wash during fermentation. When you ferment sugar in water using yeast (and nothing else) the yeast produces organic acids, and when the wash becomes too acidic (a pH of 4 or lower) most yeasts throw in the towel. This is especially the case with generic yeasts, beer yeasts and baking yeasts (which are all basic Cerevisiae strains); specialized yeasts such as rum yeast or selected wine strains may be able to go a bit lower, but eventually acidity becomes a problem. That's why turbo yeasts have a pH buffer mixed in to keep the acidity in check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a high stress fermentation (i.e. a sugar wash) needs oxygen as well. Make sure to aerate the wash well prior to pitching the yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I hate refractometers because unless you use them exactly for their intended purpose (which is to measure the amount of pure sucrose in pure water) they give you an incorrect gravity more often than not. Since fermented products (wash, beer, wine etc.) have other ingredients as well, you're not simply measuring sucrose-in-water, so your reading will be off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, a 30% alcohol content in a fermented wash is &lt;strong&gt;extremely unlikely&lt;/strong&gt; in anything other than very specialized and very finicky fermentations, so I'd disregard that reading entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary, when fermenting a sugar wash:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a good yeast nutrient&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch plenty of yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a pH stabilizer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerate well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2023-07-31T10:16:42.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11403" CreationDate="2023-08-04T00:50:24.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old thread and I am new here. I have been brewing since 2007. I started off bottling in 16oz. Grolsch flip top bottles because it was easy to get a few cases and have friends enjoy them with you. I started using mason jars 2 years ago because I got tired of cleaning the grolsch bottles. I have bottles many beers and hard ciders in wide mouth and regular mouth jars up to 2.6 volumes. I have never had any grenade on me. It does look weird because the kids will push up and when they are carbed enough they’ll get a kink in the lid. Then it’s time to chill for a week and enjoy. I also use Pasteur champagne yeast to carbonate because it’ll handle a wide range of temps without getting any off flavors. It is also very quick to carb of 70 degrees Fahrenheit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22377" LastActivityDate="2023-08-04T00:50:24.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-04T04:24:07.257" Score="0" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am starting my own vodka with a 4 gallon sugar wash. I added 10 lb of sugar and a whole pack of turbo yeast (for a 5.5 gallon wash). I read a little bit that adding too much might make the temperature rise and kill the remaining yeast. My wash has been sitting for a little over a day and has stayed steady at 90.5 degrees Fahrenheit. Will this mess up fermentation or affect the flavor of my vodka after distillation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22379" LastActivityDate="2024-02-05T04:08:01.553" Title="Can adding too much yeast to my sugar wash mess up fermentation?" Tags="|first-time-brewer|first-time|vodka|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27118" CreationDate="2023-08-06T11:13:43.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too much yeast may impart a &amp;quot;yeasty&amp;quot; flavour on the finished ferment, but that's about it. It is rarely a driving factor in run-away fermentation temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature spikes during a high-stress fermentation are a very real risk, but this is generally not a factor of pitching rates. When yeast ferments sugar it essentially digests it and, just like the digestion of food keeps the human body warm, this will also produce heat in yeast cells. If the temperature of the fermentation rises this will increase the rate of fermentation which in turn will increase the rate of heat production, and so on. This vicious circle is known as a &amp;quot;runaway&amp;quot; fermentation and as a result fermentations have been known to go volcanic, climb out of the fermenter and make a big mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature spikes are are a factor of attenuation rates early in the fermentation, which means that starting gravity is the main driving factor. The higher the gravity, the more vigorous the initial fermentation will be and the more heat will be produced. More yeast will contribute somewhat to this scenario, but compared to the effect that starting gravity and pitching temperature have this is a minor issue only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main risk about too high a fermentation temperature is that it will produce higher alcohols which in turn will result in a harsh, hot and solvent-like product that can give you monumental hangovers. However, it is extremely rare for such a fermentation to reach temperatures that will kill the yeast. The latter is possible in industrial fermentations that use specialized yeasts which can ferment out a high gravity wash in under 24 hours,which are typically done in temperature-controlled fermenters with glycol cooling. In a homebrew scenario this rarely happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule of thumb for high gravity (sugar wash) fermentations with starting gravities of 1.100 or more:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch enough yeast (it's far easier and more serious to under-pitch than to over-pitch);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerate well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Provide enough yeast nutrients&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For sugar washes provide a pH buffer to keep the acidity in check (yeast produces organic acids and if the acidity becomes too much the yeast will go inactive before the fermentation is complete)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For really high gravity washes add your sugar in stages (this is known as a stepped fermentation); e.g. divide your sugar in two or three batches and add each subsequent batch once the gravity of the wash has dropped to about 50% of the starting gravity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch cool and let the temperature rise slowly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2023-08-06T11:13:43.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-06T21:22:10.130" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a harvest of green crab apples and water into a brew bucket and left it for 2 years. I heard that there were natural yeasts and of course there is natural sugar so I left it alone. I realized 2 years in that I forgot to add water to the airlock but some people in other forums said that with the pressure etc it should be ok. There were a few fruit flies in the airlock but otherwise, it smells ok. I poured some out and it looks and smells like lemonade. Should I taste it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22384" LastActivityDate="2023-08-10T15:30:48.867" Title="2 year experiment" Tags="|airlock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27120" CreationDate="2023-08-09T11:39:01.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah taste it! You've waited 2 years for this. What's it like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2023-08-09T11:39:01.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27120" CreationDate="2023-08-10T15:30:48.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule of thumb: if it has gone off, it smells and tastes like it has gone off. So it looks like you're fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, tasting it won't kill you, and it's the best way by far to find out where you stand. In fact, if it doesn't smell bad tasting is actually the only way. I'm a little surprised that you had to ask... :-) For me it would be a no-brainer. Of course you have a taste!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your airlock has been standing dry that means that fruit flies and other critters might have gotten in. This (and normal aspiration) might have introduced wild yeasts, which you were using anyway, as well as molds and bacteriathat might have been on your fruit already in any case. (I assume you didn't boil to sterilize because you intended a natural fermentation with whatever yeast was already present.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fruit fermentation like this tends to have a certain acidity that is anti-bacterial. That's why wine and cider making require less antimicrobial measures than, say, beer brewing. So a little contamination is rarely a problem since the acidity usually counteracts it. It's only if you have such a contamination that the acidity is not enough to deal with it that a batch goes off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which essentially only leaves oxidation as a possible source of spoilage. However, if you left it undisturbed for 2 years you should have a 'blanket' of CO2 on top of the ferment, so that risk is not great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So taste it! And let us know how it turned out, would you? :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2023-08-10T15:30:48.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27141" CreationDate="2023-08-20T11:14:02.483" Score="1" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I'm venturing somewhat off-topic here, but this is related to fermentation and lactic cultures, so there is at least some overlap with home brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about to try and make Sauerkraut. I remember my grandmother used to add buttermilk when making sauerkraut in the late 1940s. This makes sense to me, since Sauerkraut is produced by lactic acid fermentation, and starting a controlled fermentation is IMO preferable to hoping for spontaneous one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, these days buttermilk is pasturized (at least in our neck of the woods it is) so it will add lactic acid but not lactic bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than starter cultures specifically intended for that purpose (not cheap and easy to find here) what else could I use? Would &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amasi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;amasi&lt;/a&gt; work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say I will be keeping this well away from my homebrewing setup!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T04:14:30.123" Title="Possibly off-topic: starter culture for sauerkraut?" Tags="|fermentation|lactobacillus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-24T05:07:22.630" Score="1" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently started making mead as a bit of a hobby to use up our honey supply. Making the mead has been quite a fun experience but I was wondering. Since your using yeast and feeding it sugars to keep it alive. Could you just keep part of a batch each time as your yeast source? It works for bread starters and it's relatively the same concept just with a drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22412" LastActivityDate="2023-09-15T12:56:47.640" Title="Can I keep making mead from the same brew?" Tags="|fermentation|yeast|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27124" CreationDate="2023-08-24T11:10:57.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah absolutely! Just need to make sure you give a chance of staying alive, so feed it some nutrients and keep it at a temperature where it can thrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2023-08-24T11:10:57.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22000" CreationDate="2023-08-25T04:03:59.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought 20 pounds of flaked barley today, and after getting home I realized that it was loaded with these guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I came on here looking for info about weevils, and found this Q&amp;amp;A in which I myself had commented over 5 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, it's not so funny now that I'm the one with the weevils.  The question here is &amp;quot;what are these insects&amp;quot;, but I'm now more interested in finding out what to do about  them!  Maybe I should make a new question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2023-08-25T04:03:59.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27124" CreationDate="2023-08-25T20:02:16.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can reuse the yeast, under some conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use it quickly enough, there's nothing to worry about. I brew a batch of beer, let it ferment for 2 weeks, bottle it, and keep the leftover trub and yeast sediment for the next batch. It sits on the counter or in the chest freezer I use for fermenting for a bout a day or two. This is basically a big starter: you have lots of healthy yeast cells ready to go. Keep them at the same temperature as your fermenter, if possible. I've brewed four batches (of usually ~5% abv beers) from the same pack of Saflager / Safale dry yeast without any problems. Fermentation is really quick. I didn't try a fifth batch as this maxed out my storage capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep yeast for a longer period, it gets more complicated. You can either get lab equipment and harvest only the healthy cells, discarding the dead ones and the trub, and put them on a growth medium in the fridge. This goes beyond my chemistry skills and the effort I want to put in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try feeding it on a regular basis and see how that works. I don't know how much you need to feed and if there are any negative consequences in the long run from dead yeast cells or lack of nutrients (assuming you just feed sugar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AFAIK you should not freeze yeast, as ice crystals can puncture the cells, destroying them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastActivityDate="2023-08-25T20:02:16.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25286" CreationDate="2023-08-27T10:08:49.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much fruit do u use for a gallon? 3-4ibs, min. 3.&#xA;Mash the fruit, let it soak with sugar and pectinase, just covered with water in the fridge for a few days. Add juice from half a lemon.&#xA;You could consider, adding a cup of chopped Thompsons or golden raisins to soak along. Consider the yeast u use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22420" LastActivityDate="2023-08-27T10:08:49.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-28T13:19:32.113" Score="1" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello I am new to home brewing and think we may have made a mistake in the process.&#xA;We chopped and squezed our apples that gave us 17 litres of juice this is now in a fermenting bucket to this we added Campden tablets.&#xA;After 24 hours I added a 9 gram sachet of Mango Jacks M02 cider yeast by sprinkling onto the juice as per the instructions on the pack a day later there is no activity.&#xA;I have since looked at the Amazon web site where I got the yeast and it says I should have mixed it with water and sugar.&#xA;Is there a way of starting the fermantaion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22423" LastActivityDate="2023-09-07T20:57:28.387" Title="Cider not fermenting I may have caused a problem" Tags="|yeast|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27129" CreationDate="2023-08-28T13:46:03.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it should be fine just sprinkling it on top of the juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No activity: do you mean there is no activity in the juice, or is there no activity in your airlock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much Campden tables did you add? The normal amount of metabisulfite to add, to inhibit oxidation, is 0,04 g/l. One Campden tablet would be enough. But normally you would not do that before adding your yeast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem last year, added too much metabisulfite, which killed my yeast. But the amount I used was around 10g, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T13:46:03.737" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27129" CreationDate="2023-08-30T11:35:36.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really, the only way to be sure the yeast is/isn't doing anything is to get a hydrometer or refractometer and measure the must content over the course of a few days. If the gravity is dropping, you're fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A refractometer is quicker, but as the alcohol content increases, the reading becomes less accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had yeast outlive potassium metabisulfite before so adding more yeast may help. I would consider trying a co-pitch of something more hearty like Kviek Lutra but not sure how well that plays with Mangrove Jack. Kviek is super buff though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2023-08-30T11:35:36.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-01T22:41:14.253" Score="1" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m making a batch of ginger beer from a bug. 5l water, 400g white sugar.&#xA;Within just over a day, the fermentation started foaming heavily. The foam has a consistency and taste of egg whites beaten for a merengue. The rest of the liquid is turning thick and viscous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What’s happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22433" LastActivityDate="2024-02-12T13:04:35.550" Title="Ginger beer fermentation produces thick, white foam, becomes viscous" Tags="|ginger-beer|problems|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9482" CreationDate="2023-09-07T00:21:42.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fairly recent development (I think it is recent) is the use of Brewer's Clarex. Add the recommended dosage to the wort at the same time you pitch the yeast. Is working for me, and appears to eliminate chill haze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2023-09-07T00:21:42.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27129" CreationDate="2023-09-07T20:57:28.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It needs oxygen. Pure O2 and a stone is best or aerate mechanically. Yeast skipped growth phase but probably not dead yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2023-09-07T20:57:28.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27118" CreationDate="2023-09-08T02:04:34.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An over pitch of turbo will do nothing but excellerate fermentation. over putch is only an issue of you're looking for yeast esters in the flavor profile. Turbo has little to none unless under pitched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as heat death, I've never seen a strain that can generate more heat than they can live through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2023-09-08T02:04:34.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27124" CreationDate="2023-09-08T02:20:28.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just rack the new batch over the old &amp;quot;fresh&amp;quot; cake. Best to rack on it asap.&#xA;No need to oxygenate, it's a full pitch yeast will go directly into feeding phase. The resulting batch will be very clean almost no yeast profile.  if you want the yeast profile then only use some of the old cake and oxygenate so you get a new growth phase to produce esters.&#xA;You can reuse the same cake as a full pitch about 5 times before viable cell count goes down and it needs oxygen again for a new growth cycle.&#xA;You can do the partial indefinitely since there's always new yeast.&#xA;Lack of O2 triggers yeast to stop reproducing and enter feeding phase. If you have the cell count needed to complete the batch in x time then no need to add O2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2023-09-08T02:20:28.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27132" CreationDate="2023-09-08T02:32:02.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like an undesirable bacteria / yeast combo. Try again with a new or known good ginger bug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2023-09-08T02:32:02.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27123" CreationDate="2023-09-08T02:35:55.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use yakult or other probiotic for some live lactobacillus to do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2023-09-08T02:35:55.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27033" CreationDate="2023-09-11T04:10:50.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to be sure is to take a gravity reading. That being said - and considering you are fermenting under pressure - it's most likely the CO2 that's causing the activity. If you don't see massive pressure differences (e.g. it isn't going up anymore). It's probably done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T04:10:50.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27123" CreationDate="2023-09-11T04:14:30.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make a lot of kimchi which uses a similar process to sauerkraut, so far I've always used spontaneous fermentation without fail. The key difference between brewing beer and making fermented cabbage is that there's salt added to prevent growth of unwanted bacteria + submerging the cabbage in the brine to prevent mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than trying to find a culture, I'd just give it a go. Cabbage is dirt cheap anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T04:14:30.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17178" CreationDate="2023-09-11T14:36:10.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You use a kit that has two tins or bags of extract,one of which is hopped.Or they may both be hopped, it really doesnt matter. You warm up the cans (or plastic bags)and empty into you FV, you then add 1.7 litres of boiling water purely to make the mix start dissolving quicker,as it is already sterile.&#xA;Most kits come with a secondary bag of hop powder, this is for flavour.If you want a different hop flavour then substitute with the one that you want. Do this after 5 days. You could also 'steep' hops in some of the wort in a separat pan along with any say crystal malt grain, as we hear that this type of grain should not be boiled. Steep in 1.5 ltrs at 175F. for 20 mins, maintain temp? (I have not seen this written anywhere.).Now add to FV through a sieve. Make up to 23lts, cast yeast at 70/75f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15231" LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T14:36:10.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27132" CreationDate="2023-09-15T12:42:50.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an infection from pediococci. They produce long carbohydrate chains that tangle together, which results in this viscous consistency. It's not harmful, it just feels gross. Reportedly, after a few weeks/months, a fermented product will return to normal consistency as the carbs making up the goop get broken down but I've never personally tested this claim. Whenever I get a pediococcus infection, I toss away whatever product happens to be infected and start a new batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14050" LastActivityDate="2023-09-15T12:42:50.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27124" CreationDate="2023-09-15T12:56:47.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the others have already responded, yes, you can reuse the yeast from a previous batch. There's a caveat though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the gravity of your mead, your yeast may or may not be usable. High gravity, high ABV meads will either kill off your yeast or leave it in poor condition, deteriorating the quality of your future meads. So as a general rule, if you want to reuse yeast, make a low gravity mead, rack it (collecting the yeast) and then add more honey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for keeping a portion of mead, as opposed to collecting yeast cake, you need to ensure there's enough yeast there to kickstart a new fermentation. I'd say it's more difficult to pull off after racking to secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14050" LastActivityDate="2023-09-15T12:56:47.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27145" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-22T17:27:01.027" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make red wine for the first time, using grapes from my garden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rinsed the grapes, crushed them and poured them into a 15 l bucket, ending up with about 6 l of mash. I placed a lid with an airlock on it and left it at room temperature. Every day I would open the lid and mix the solids under again. Nothing other than crushed grapes was added – no yeasts, no other additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a day of fermentation I started to notice a yeast-like smell – so far, so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after a week of fermentation, I notice the mash has a strong smell of solvent (the kind used in some kinds of universal glue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? Or is it a sign that the yeast cultures are producing the wrong kinds of alcohol and my batch is ruined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22476" LastActivityDate="2023-09-23T08:14:14.753" Title="Wine mash smells like moonshine after 7 days of fermentation, is that normal?" Tags="|fermentation|wine|wild-yeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27145" CreationDate="2023-09-23T08:14:14.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make beer so don't have the wine experience, but we both suffer yeast issues at times and the results can be similar. May be either fusel alcohols have developled due to stressed out yeast (  &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/17055/how-can-i-minimize-methanol-fusel-alcohols-in-wine&quot;&gt;How can I minimize methanol/fusel alcohols in wine?&lt;/a&gt;) or maybe fermentation temp was just too warm for the yeast (&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.homebrewing.org/wine-smells-like-acetone/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://blog.homebrewing.org/wine-smells-like-acetone/&lt;/a&gt;). Hope the links offer some insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2023-09-23T08:14:14.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-24T06:03:24.003" Score="2" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;first time cider maker. I recently pressed cooking apples and elderberries into a cider mix, fermented in a bucket for a week with an air gap bung until the bubbles stopped and transferred to bottles with about a teaspoon of sugar in each bottle. I've left the cider do a second fermentation for two weeks and I've opened one to see the results, with being happy that it's carbonated, but the taste is very tart and acidic. Is there a way to fix this? Or is it a case of letting the bottles sit longer to mellow? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22479" LastActivityDate="2023-10-01T02:49:29.277" Title="First time cider is very tart and acidic, any fixes?" Tags="|cider|techniques|first-time-brewer|taste|acidic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27147" CreationDate="2023-09-24T20:53:26.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah letting it condition (letting the cider mellow) will do wonders. The longer you can leave it the better, in my experience. But if you don't want to wait you could back-sweeten, so add a bit of apple juice in your glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20409" LastActivityDate="2023-09-24T20:53:26.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-28T23:38:48.730" Score="1" ViewCount="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm trying to set up a keg on nitro. The way my room is laid out, id like to have the n2 cylinder far away from the regulator and keg. One side of this setup requires cga580 male, the other side requires cga 580 female.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the specifics of this setup I need the line to be a high pressure line that can connect directly to the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my goal is to essentially make an extension cable that I can place different cga 580 ends on. I've seen this referred to as a &lt;code&gt;pigtail&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't figure out which parts will fit which other parts though. I bought this expensive cga580 male to male pigtail thinking I could remove one of the male heads but I can't remove the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if getting a stainless pigtail with 1/4 npt female ends would allow me to add adapters that are 1/4 npt to cga 580?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so could someone point me towards the adapters that will allow this setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if not, does anyone know og anywhere that sells a cga 580 male to female pigtail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or any other ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22489" LastActivityDate="2024-03-09T01:05:51.180" Title="Creating a customizable high pressure extensions line for cga 580" Tags="|kegging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27147" CreationDate="2023-10-01T02:49:29.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have dry cider and this is expected. As Socks^3 mentions, backsweetening is the typical method for taking some of that dry edge off your cider however be mindful that if you backsweeten, you need to stablize the cider first. Otherwise, any yeast in suspension will ferment the additional sugars increasing your ABV while not doing all that much to reduce dryness. Look into potassium metabisulfate and/or potassium sorbate for stablizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2023-10-01T02:49:29.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-08T11:40:07.490" Score="0" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first go at wine making. My Red wine Og was 1.06 and primary fermentation final OG is 1.00. should i add more sugar for secondary fermentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22521" LastActivityDate="2023-11-08T11:08:21.007" Title="Adding sugar for secondary fermentation?" Tags="|fermentation|sugar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27151" CreationDate="2023-10-09T10:53:45.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a homebrewer but the principles between cider, beer and wine making are similar. I've added sugars to cider and beer before post-primary and it boosted the ABV but also thinned the body of the beverage out. It was still drinkable,just not as much character as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One concern with this is contamination. Straight table sugar isn't exactly easy to sanitize with star san, and heating it to pastuerize it can cause other problems. You may want to consider pastuerized fruit juice. The sugar is still there, but you are less likely to contaminate things. Just make sure to stay away from juice with Sodium Benzoate,  Potassium Sorbate or other preservatives as this will render your fermentation ineffective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2023-10-09T10:53:45.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27155" CreationDate="2023-10-10T22:09:28.687" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to fermentation and I'm making my first sauerkraut. I have followed the basic instructions correctly but when I crushed the cabbage in order to get the water out, my hand had a little bit of detergent on it, very small amount. I don't know if it rubbed off and stayed on the cabbage but at the end, the water on top of the jarred cabbage was a foamy, more so than the pictures I saw on the internet. So my question is: Will that trace amount of detergent prevent fermentation? I cannot wash it with water and re-add the salt now because I only got chlorinated water available so it's either bite the bullet, throw it all out or eat 2 pounds of cabbage before it goes bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any inputs or references will be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22532" LastEditorUserId="22532" LastEditDate="2023-10-11T18:46:53.033" LastActivityDate="2023-10-11T18:46:53.033" Title="Sauerkraut with trace amount of detergent" Tags="|fermentation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27154" CreationDate="2023-10-11T17:38:09.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This describes the effect of detergent when fermenting cassava:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Abstract&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effects of detergent on the microbiological changes of cassava for fufu production were investigated for a period of 72hr.&#xA;Microbiological analyses of the fermenting cassava samples using standard methods were carried out.&#xA;Six microbial species: Lactobacillus plantarum, Citrobacter freundii, Corynebacterium manihot, Lactobacillus cellobioscus, Pseudomonas alcaligens, and Leuconostoc mesenteriods were identified for the control.&#xA;The same organisms were identified for the low detergent concentrations (1g/L, 2g/L) except Corynebacterium manihot, Leuconostoc mesenteriods, which were completely destroyed.&#xA;High detergent concentrations (4g/L, 8g/L) inhibited the growth and subsequently killed all the organisms living[sic] very few Citrobacter freundii behind.&#xA;At low detergent concentrations the cassava ferment within 48hr without objectionable odour.&#xA;However, at high detergent concentrations there was no fermentation even after 72hr.&#xA;The control samples fermented after 72hr with undesirable odour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/250355728_The_Effects_of_Detergent_on_the_Microbiological_Changes_of_Fermenting_Cassava_for_Fufu_Production&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Effects of Detergent on the Microbiological Changes of Fermenting Cassava for Fufu Production&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;Eki T. Aisien and Felix Aisien, 2007&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lactobacillus is the primary agent when fermenting sauerkraut, so one might presume that the effects will be similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While high levels of detergent kill the bacteria (no fermentation), low levels have no noticeable effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your &amp;quot;little bit of detergent&amp;quot; could be low level (less than 1g/L), in which case you should see signs of fermentation, and the taste of samples of the cabbage should improve over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19555" LastActivityDate="2023-10-11T17:38:09.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-18T16:52:38.160" Score="2" ViewCount="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does BIAB lead to more unwanted malt residue entering the boiler as there is no recirculating of wort until it runs bright, prior to boiling, as during a traditional sparge, and does this affect final beer quality&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22559" LastActivityDate="2023-10-23T21:21:57.027" Title="Does BIAB lead to more unwanted malt residue entering the boiler and does this affect final beer quality" Tags="|biab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27157" CreationDate="2023-10-18T23:06:29.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR There might be difference in final beer quality, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The difference will be SMALL (and who knows, BIAB might actually give you a better result).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can mitigate any negative effects with other aspects of your process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are other parts of your process that have MUCH more impact on your beer than the choice of how you lauter - focus on these first to have more positive impact on your beer quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, the mesh size of the bag is actually finer than the filtration achieved in a traditional mash bed. This means that the BIAB wort will have smaller particles than a traditional lauter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own (and am the brewer for) a licensed nano brewery. My brew house consists of a 50 gallon kettle, a very large bag, and an electric winch to lift the bag from the kettle at the end of the mash. I mash uninsulated, but only lose about 1.5F per hour during the mash (good volume to surface area ratio in the bigger kettle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the size of the grain bag, I am definitely in the &amp;quot;no-squeeze&amp;quot; BIAB camp (at the very least due to practicality). Due to the limited kettle size for my desired batch size (7/6 of a barrel), I always am short on wort volume, so I &amp;quot;sparge&amp;quot; with a few gallons of hot water from a hose into the top of the bag while it drains. I also use Visco-Buster in every mash to improve the speed at which the bag drains (this is a White Labs product - no affiliation, other than as a customer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are never ANY grain particles floating around in the wort. However, all of the soluble stuff is still in there (proteins, etc.). Lots of trub - as much or more than a traditional lauter. Perhaps additional trub is a result of the much finer crush I can use on the grains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always use Irish Moss during the boil and gelatin when cold crashing, and my beers always come out crystal clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are so many brewing process options available that it is impossible to say that one lautering technique or another is going to make or break the quality of the beer. I think you need to pick the equipment and process that works for you and your budget and brewing time that is available. Once you have picked your equipment and general approach, you will want to optimize the rest of the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example (and I don't know if this is true or not in general), let's say that BIAB tends to result in hazier final beer. Ok, that just means that it is a little more important to use fining agents in the process than it would be with a traditional mash. I am good with that, as I would probably be fining no matter what (just to be sure the beer is clear, if it is appropriate for the style).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the details of how you produce wort is far down the list of importance when it comes to the quality of the final product. Off the top of my head, in order of importance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Freshness/quality of ingredients.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch proper amount of happy yeast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxygenate wort at the start of fermentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay strict attention to cleanliness on the cold-side. Avoid infection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Proper fermentation temperature control (and temperature schedule).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recipe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If mashing, proper pH (much less of an issue for extract).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If mashing, proper strike water temperature (to hit desired mash temp).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust your water profile to support the desired style (get a water report from Ward Labs - no affiliation, other than being a happy customer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strong rolling boil, fast cooling of wort at the end of boil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limit oxygen exposure at all times after fermentation begins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All grain rather than using malt extract to produce base wort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fining.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I really think all grain vs. extract is that far down the list. And this question is about a nuance of the lautering process, which is just one step in the mashing process. Breweries use grain because it is MUCH less expensive than extract (last time I calculated it, extract is 4x the cost of the equivalent base malt). This difference is critical to the brewery, but relatively small at the homebrew scale. I will also note that breweries will routinely use some malt extract to hit a higher OG than their mashing equipment can reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: The choice between BIAB and traditional lauter is a minor detail. Pick one and create/optimize your process around that. Or, stick with extract (plus specialty grains) for now and focus your time and effort on all the other stuff that has a bigger impact on the final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a limited budget (and you have your heart set on all grain), definitely go BIAB and put your time and money into figuring out yeast management (storage, starter, etc.), fermentation temperature control, and oxygenation. Happy yeast makes good beer. Proper water chemistry can turn a good beer into a great beer, and water tests and brewing salts are inexpensive (and you should definitely tune the water chemistry for each recipe to match/support the style).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the specific comparison of mashing style, this is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://brulosophy.com/2018/03/05/mash-methods-brew-in-a-bag-biab-vs-no-sparge-exbeeriment-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;interesting read&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will note, though, that I am pretty sure that a stuck sparge is impossible to achieve with BIAB. I can attest to the peace of mind of never having to worry about a stuck sparge, which will definitely ruin your day when it happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3003" LastEditorUserId="3003" LastEditDate="2023-10-23T21:21:57.027" LastActivityDate="2023-10-23T21:21:57.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25964" CreationDate="2023-10-24T19:00:52.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;during primary fermentation why would you put wine must in an airlocked container?  Most winemakers ferment in a somewhat open bin and may cover with a towel.  Secondary fermentation requires the the airlock.  As long as your wine is above negative brix, you will be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22569" LastActivityDate="2023-10-24T19:00:52.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="524" CreationDate="2023-11-02T23:18:49.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many years ago I read that hops and cannabis were related. In fact the suggestion was to graft hops onto cannabis roots in order to grow a plant that looked like hops but that contained THC. I never tried it; don't know if it would work or even if they are related in fact. But if so, perhaps cannabis could replace hops in brewing. Again, NO IDEA if this will work.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Use at Your Own Risk. Your mileage may vary. Batteries not included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12067" LastActivityDate="2023-11-02T23:18:49.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-09T17:03:37.057" Score="1" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;What % of potassium sorbate, and or potassium benzoate do you need to add to a liquid solution, mixing water with fruit powders to keep yeast/mold from growing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22611" LastActivityDate="2023-11-16T09:37:45.443" Title="What % of potassium sorbate, and or potassium benzoate do you need to add to a liquid solution, mixed with powders to keep yeast/mold from growing?" Tags="|yeast|problems|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27161" CreationDate="2023-11-16T09:37:45.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;0.5 tsp (1.7 g) Potassium Sorbate - treats 1 gallon mead, wine or fruit wine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2.5 tsp (9.1 g) Potassium Sorbate  - treats 5 gallons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use benzoate stabilising as tablets were withdrawn (e.g. UK) due to concerns about the carcinogens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastActivityDate="2023-11-16T09:37:45.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-29T02:00:29.363" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to all grain brewing and am using an Anvil Foundry 6.5-gal electric brewing system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to use Brewfather's award-winning Mean Brews English Mild recipe (see photos)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/414Vy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/414Vy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqlL8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqlL8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YF3R4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YF3R4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, according to this recipe, requires the following grain bill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 lbs, 2.2 oz of Maris Otter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10.9 oz Crystal 60°L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6.4oz Chocolate Malt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5.6 oz Caramel 90°L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.5 oz Flaked Oats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total grain: &lt;strong&gt;6 lbs, 12.6 oz&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mash-in water volume for this is &lt;strong&gt;4.96 gallons&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my first attempt I tried using the recommended 4.96 gallons, but with the grain it nearly filled my Anvil to the very top, and the water level was higher than the top of my malt pipe. This allowed the grain to flow over out of the malt pipe and into the area in between the malt pipe and the inner edge of the Foundry. This made it impossible for me to use the recirculation pump and I ultimately had to abandon the boil because I wasn't able to filter the grain off the wort well enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this second time around, I used 3.0 gallons for my mash-in volume and had another 2 gallons heated, treated and ready for sparging (later on). This produced a mash that was far too thick (it was like concrete), so I topped it off with another 0.75 gallons from what that reserved sparge water, and that got me to a decent thickness, but not so much water that it overflowed the top of the malt pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let the mash sit for 15 minutes, and then hooked up the recirculation kit/pump and began pumping. Within 20 seconds, the pump started groaning, so I turned it off and lifted the lid of the Foundry. All the water that had been sitting in between the malt pipe and the inside of the Foundry was gone (sucked up by the pump) and had been dumped into the top of the malt pipe, and the malt pipe was just on the verge of overflowing (back into the Foundry). I think the mash was still too thick, and when I began pumping, the grain bed compacted inside the malt pipe, created a barrier between the malt pipe's false bottom and the Foundry, and the pump just drained all the water the was outside of the malt pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I stopped recirculating altogether, kept stirring every 10 mins or so, and at the 1 hour mark did an iodine test. It passed (had good conversion) and I was ready to sparge. I pulled the malt pipe up out of the Foundry, and rested it on the brackets...and it refused to drain. I stirred it really well, scraping the bottom...would not drain. Stuck mash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I carefully emptied the entire contents of the malt pipe into some sanitized stainless steel cook pots. I ran the malt pipe into the kitchen, cleaned the heck out of it, cleaned the false bottom to perfection, and brought it back to the Foundry. I slowly dumped the cook pots (containing wort + grain) back into the malt pipe...and again it refused to drain. Agin, I stirred it really well, scraping the false bottom...but it would not drain. Stuck mash, again. At this point I was exasperated and bailed on the brew day, for the second time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my &lt;em&gt;theory&lt;/em&gt; on what went wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I believe my mash-in water volumes are still way off. This led to the mash being too thick after mash-in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because the mash was too thick, when I ran the pump, it compacted the grain bed, formed dead space between the malt pipe and inside of the Foundry, and ultimately stuck the mash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even after I cleaned the false bottom and poured the wort + grain back into the malt pipe, the thickness was still off and so the bed just recompacted and stuck a 2nd time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to begin with, how does my theory sound here? Happy to answer any questions if it helps troubleshoot, but I can't really move forward with &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; solution unless we're confident we have a good theory as to what went wrong on this second brewday. So if anyone has any alternative theories, or sees any red flags, please begin by providing course correction and any steering you are able to!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming my theory is more or less correct, then it seems to me the root culprit here is a bad grist ratio (mash thickness). If the thickness had been proper, I would have never suffered from a compacted bed and hence, any stuck mashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then, if that is truly the root of the problem, can someone with Anvil Foundry experience help a poor old newbie out? Can someone hold my hand a little bit this first time around and help me tweak &lt;strong&gt;both&lt;/strong&gt; my mash-in and pre-boil volumes, and/or grain bill so that my mash thickness is correct? I'm aiming to be able to pitch somewhere between 3.5 and 4 gallons post-boil. If the grain bill needs to change, my only concern is trying to stay true to the English Mild style (alc %, IBUs, SRM, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any-and-all help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastActivityDate="2023-12-30T10:23:14.037" Title="Anvil Foundry 6.5 gallon recipe thickness causing compaction and stuck mashes" Tags="|all-grain|electric|mash-thickness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27168" CreationDate="2023-12-30T03:45:07.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Congrats on your Foundry, and sorry to hear things haven't gone well on your first couple brews. I have the 10.5 gallon which I bought in 2020 and pretty happy with it. It's a good unit and Blichman/Anvil has been great with their support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had numerous stuck mash on reasonable grain bills. I added a couple handfuls of rice hulls and that seemed to help, but the game changer was to get a brew bag. I haven't had a single stuck mash since. I think the holes in the malt pipe just plug up and it's game over. The holes in the brew bag are much smaller so it prevents grain from plugging the pipe. Blichman revised the malt pipe since 2020 but according to this article from 2023, it misses the mark (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/articles/Anvil_Foundry_Mods&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.morebeer.com/articles/Anvil_Foundry_Mods&lt;/a&gt;). A lot of Foundry users just use the bag WITHOUT the malt pipe, but the pipe is kind of handy for lifting the thing out so I like it. Plus it keeps the bag off the bottom of the kettle which seems to make sense for recirculating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another trick to draining the mash easier is to raise the temp to 170F after mashing to loosen things up a bit, but this is after mashing so won't help with recirc. Just better for sparging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 6.5 Foundry listing on morebeer mentions 2.5-3 gallon batch sizes. The recipe you have listed has a 4.9 gallon batch volume so I wonder if you're simply over capacity for what the 6.5 is capable of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe cut the recipe in half and see how it goes. I'll bet you'll have much better luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastEditorUserId="18216" LastEditDate="2023-12-30T10:23:14.037" LastActivityDate="2023-12-30T10:23:14.037" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27079" CreationDate="2024-01-26T19:03:46.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeast will probably produce a high amount of fusel alcohols (also called high alcohols) that may be considered off-flavours, beer will taste more alcoholic, these alcohols can also cause headaches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15909" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T19:03:46.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23649" CreationDate="2024-01-31T03:16:15.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consult a carbonation chart, also called a forced carbonation chart. It will tell you what is the correct &amp;quot;set it and forget it&amp;quot; PSI, based on your desired level of carbonation and the temperature in the cooler, or room. I often have as many as 8 kegs connected to a single 50 lb. tank and they take between 5 and 8 days to be fully carbed. Best thing is, if you forget about it, or can't get to it for some reason, you are in no danger of over-carbing your beverage. If your regulator is set to the appropriate pressure as indicated by the chart it will simply maintain it at that level of carbonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22799" LastActivityDate="2024-01-31T03:16:15.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20565" CreationDate="2024-02-11T03:31:53.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zep toilet bowl cleaner . Lowes or Home Depot it’s is the commercial strength  and mainly hydrochloric  acid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22829" LastActivityDate="2024-02-11T03:31:53.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26000" CreationDate="2024-02-20T12:56:46.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that by adding a yeast that is more alcohol tolerant and better at consuming simple sugars, such as a champagne yeast, you could get somewhat higher ABV  than this result from whichever yeast you used (was not specified).  However, really the only way to achieve 10% ABV or more in a cider is to add quite a bit of sugar.  Apple juice on its own can easily achieve 6 to 7% ABV in most cases.  Your case was a little less but not unheard of, for a juice with relatively low sugar and perhaps a worn-out yeast.  For next batch, I would consider another sugar source, including regular beet or cane sugar, honey, maple syrup, grape juice, etc. to increase original gravity towards 1.075 (about 18 Brix) or higher.  The original gravity of regular apple juice is usually 1.040 to 1.050 (about 10 to 13 Brix) which will only create 6 to 7% ABV at most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastActivityDate="2024-02-20T12:56:46.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-22T03:21:49.840" Score="1" ViewCount="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Am getting back into home brewing after a decade-plus hiatus. Call me &amp;quot;born again,&amp;quot; at the risk of offending some (I hope none are).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started in the 1990's, the cultures from Wyeast were 50ml (I believe), and a starter was recommended for a 5 US gal (19 l) batch. Chris White's alternative becomes a thing; the big advantage is the &amp;quot;pitchable quantity&amp;quot; -- no starter needed for a 5 gal batch. Wyeast first responds with a product similar to that from White Labs, though packaged differently (the &amp;quot;shampoo tube&amp;quot;), then sees the light and introduces the XL pack, putatively a pitchable quantity, with the advantage of the nutrient pack (the &amp;quot;little rascal&amp;quot;) inside, just like the Wyeast Original Recipe, to wake up the wee beasties so they can hit the ground running at pitching. I don't see the XL product any longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question (yes, there is one in here): Are the new homebrew smack-packs from Wyeast like the original, or do they have a cell count similar to what was in the XL pack? Yes, I can read the cell counts on the new packages, but am uncertain how they compare to what was in the original and XL formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22846" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T12:38:36.290" Title="Modern Wyeast vs Original vs XL" Tags="|yeast|wyeast|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-23T03:40:33.833" Score="1" ViewCount="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love coffee.&#xA;I love it light(Blonde) and dark.  I love it with creamer and (sugar-free) sweetener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One kind of coffee I like is &amp;quot;cold brewed coffee&amp;quot;.&#xA;Instead of steeping in boiling water for a few minutes, it is soaked in cold water for a few hours.&#xA;It gets all the caffeine.&#xA;It does not extract the acid, and it has a much mellower taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In chemistry you can get chemical/molecular diffusion at a much lower temperature as long as you let the process continue for a longer (or much longer) time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I had this thought....&#xA;Can I make a wort using the cold brewing, then boil it after?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does it do to the beer? Has it been done before; if so what is it called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think chemistry says the sugars can be extracted at a lower temperature, and while it might take longer, it can change the nature of the flavors extracted, including acidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some references:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7404565/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7404565/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0924224419305692&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0924224419305692&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kerry.com/insights/kerrydigest/2018/what-science-tells-us-about-making-the-best-tasting-cold-brew-coffee.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.kerry.com/insights/kerrydigest/2018/what-science-tells-us-about-making-the-best-tasting-cold-brew-coffee.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22849" LastEditorUserId="22849" LastEditDate="2024-02-27T00:55:31.973" LastActivityDate="2024-02-27T00:55:31.973" Title="cold brew coffee ... cold brew wort" Tags="|beer|brewing|wort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27181" CreationDate="2024-02-23T12:58:55.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you mean 'wort' rather than 'wart', the answer is no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to bring your malt to mashing temperature (typically between 60 and 70 degrees Celsius) in order to activate the enzymes that turn starch into fermentable sugars. Then you need the heat of the boil to congeal proteins (known as hot break),and to isomerize the hops' alpha acids without which you would not get any bitterness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of that can happen at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2024-02-23T12:58:55.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-28T19:10:03.240" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to start making beer at home, but I have no idea where to start. I want to mention that I'm a wine making novice, having some vines around my house, but with beer I have no experience. Well, I have an experience in drinking it, but not making it. Where do I need to start and how? I want to mention that for the beginning I don't want to invest more than 1000 euros(1100$) in equipment. And secondly, I have hops in my garden but, I don't think I'm able to grow my own barley&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23858" LastActivityDate="2024-03-04T10:01:18.057" Title="Want to start making beer in my household. Where to start?" Tags="|beer|first-time-brewer|malt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27183" CreationDate="2024-02-29T19:19:44.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started making beer with a 5 gallon stock pot from Amazon (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0BTTLVYJW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/IMUSA-Stainless-Steel-Stock-Silver/dp/B0BTTLVYJW/&lt;/a&gt;) and some extract kits from Morebeer (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.morebeer.com/products/zombie-dust-clone-soulless-hop-pale-ale-extract.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.morebeer.com/products/zombie-dust-clone-soulless-hop-pale-ale-extract.html&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process was basically&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heat 3 gallons of carbon filtered tap water on the stove&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;soak any grains that come with the kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bring the water to a boil, start a timer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add hops and the extract (at certain times)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chill it in an ice bath in the sink&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pour it into a sanitized fermenting bucket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;top off with distilled water to get 5 gallons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pitch yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ferment two weeks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;transfer to a keg, carbonate, enjoy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This made a very enjoyable beer. People who tried it said &amp;quot;you &lt;em&gt;made&lt;/em&gt; this?&amp;quot;, so it did not turn out a funky tasting &amp;quot;frankenbeir&amp;quot;, but smelled and tasted like it was from the store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of this you will be familar with from making wine, like sanitation, so all the same rules apply. I did not like bottling and was lucky to own a kegerator prior to picking up the homebrew bug. After several years, bottling is still not fun when I occasionally do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go with smaller batches, you can find 1 gallon kegs (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07CTHSJXC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTHSJXC/&lt;/a&gt;) which fit in the fridge. There is a mini ball lock that goes with that keg for around $40. You can add a CO2 cartridge dispenser (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07NRD1BPJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Beer-Keg-Charger-CO2-Dispenser/dp/B07NRD1BPJ/&lt;/a&gt;) and a picnic tap and voila, mini keg for about $100 bucks US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The immediate problem I had with the stove top was the chilling time. Ice bath works but took me 45 minutes and I was all worried about not chilling it fast enough and introducing bacteria. That's not such a big problem I've learned since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a helpful process though because a stainless chiller added $50 to my shopping list, and then an LP burner and tank was like another $100.  I thought this was nice, but then saw the Anvil Foundry (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.anvilbrewing.com/foundry-10-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.anvilbrewing.com/foundry-10-5&lt;/a&gt;) for around $350 (it was on sale at the time) and decided the all-in-one was the way to go as I could do it inside, or the garage, without gassing out the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had the foundry several years now. It keeps going. Other systems are probably just as nice so you'd have to look at reviews. Blichman/Anvil will be hard to beat for the price range though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, about the wild hops... I tried this once. went through drying them in the basement for a week and then vaccum packing them, and storing them in the freezer. The convenience and consistency of already pelletize hops is hard to beat, for me anyway. Watch for sales at &lt;a href=&quot;https://yakimavalleyhops.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://yakimavalleyhops.com/&lt;/a&gt;, invest in a vacum sealer,  buy in 1# bags and freeze them. It's way more economical that buying $3.99/oz packages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2024-02-29T19:19:44.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27183" CreationDate="2024-03-03T15:19:04.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With €1000 you'll be able to get all you need to get started and have plenty left over to set aside for upgrading your brewery should it appeal to you (and it will).  You will want a kegging system -- not required, but, trust me, you want it.  Bottling is a phenomenal PIA, and a disincentive to pursue the hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous post is quite thorough.  I would echo that you should start with a kit for an extract based ale for your first go-round.  Then, as you develop your process, branch off to lagers, mashing, exotic beers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I'd make anything smaller than a 3 Gal. batch -- a lot of effort for a handful of pints.  Plus, the smaller the batch, the more sensitive it is to any deviations (i.e., if you accidentally put a couple extra ounces of malt in a 5 gallon batch -- no big deal.  But if you do that to a 1 Gal. batch, it will change the character noticeably).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I've grown my own hops and tend to only use them for late additions (where you're after flavor/aroma rather than bitterness).  The fact that I have no idea what their Alpha Acid content is makes it very tricky to calculate bitterness.  But, even as late additions, I was never real happy with the result.  So, I grow the hops mostly for its landscape appeal (have them growing on an arbor over a seating area).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Anvil system and like it -- but run through a few batches before making that investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22221" LastActivityDate="2024-03-03T15:19:04.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27189" CreationDate="2024-03-03T15:41:00.177" Score="2" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I decided to make a Tripel.  I've been brewing for decades, but haven't made a Tripel in about 15 years -- so it's not in my wheel house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, it was a smooth brewday, the stats are as follows...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Grain: 10:1 ratio of Belg. Pilsener to Munich.  With some clear Candi sugar (1#)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;OG: 1.080&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mash: 140°F (20 mins), 152°F (75 mins), Mash Out 168°F&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hops: 30 IBUs of Styrian Goldings and Saaz added at various stages&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ferment: Primary: 70°F for 11 days (was 1.016 after primary), Secondary: 14 days at 70°F, Cold Crash: 3 days at 35°F&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yeast: SafAle s-33 Belgian Ale&lt;br&gt;&#xA;FG: 1.011 at kegging&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, despite having a low FG (and presumably quite dry with good attenuation), it has a residual sweetness that seems out of character. It's not bad, still pretty yummy, but not the dry, spicy character I'd associate with a Tripel.  Anyone see where I might have gone sideways?  With an FG of 1.011, why would it be sweet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22221" LastActivityDate="2024-03-06T11:53:19.827" Title="Sweet(-ish) Tripel" Tags="|belgian|sweetness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27183" CreationDate="2024-03-04T10:01:18.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;@HomeBrew has a nice answer, but I think that you should also find for yourself the answers to the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much beer would you like to make in a year? Take your own consumption into account, and make a guess at how much beer you would probably serve to family and acquaintances.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you want to brew many different beers (out of curiosity) or are you someone who likes one or two standard beers? In the first case, you would be better of with a smaller kit and brewing some more, in the second case maybe a bigger kit and brew less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2024-03-04T10:01:18.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27188" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-04T20:32:27.493" Score="2" ViewCount="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new at making beer and I have some questions I couldn't find answers from in my beer-making book. One of them is why everyone I saw on YT tries to remove the roots that grows on the grain after the sprouting phase of the mating process?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I mean, don't they contain sugars that will turn in ethanol?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even if they don't, why bother removing it? Are they going to ruin the brew?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And, if it is necessary, then how to remove them efficiently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23858" LastActivityDate="2024-04-04T12:03:15.490" Title="When malting barley is it necessary to remove the small roots that grow on the grains?" Tags="|beer|malt|grain|barrel|barley|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27186" CreationDate="2024-03-04T22:48:48.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your yeast choice, mash schedule and the simple sugars from candi would make us expect a dry result, which your numbers prove you got. Your 30 IBUs is in the right ballpark to properly balance out the maltiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are certain styles of beer that, while they measure dry, many customers insist that it is sweet (and that they LOVE it). The styles (that I brew and serve) that get these comments on a regular basis are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belgian Dubbel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belgian Tripel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belgian Quad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Braggot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do these all have in common? A sweet adjunct (Belgian candi sugar or honey, in the case of the braggot). And in a big enough dose that you can taste it in the final beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that enough of the candy-character (or honey-character in the case of the braggot) comes through and tricks our brain into thinking we are tasting sweetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The candi sugar is very fermentable (all simple sugars) and your numbers prove that the yeast ate all of those actual sugars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what do you do to make your mouth happier with your Tripel? Adjust your recipe next time you brew it! If you want to reduce the perception of sweetness, reduce the candi sugar (or perhaps increase your IBUs). You don't say how much grain you used, so we don't know what fraction of your grain bill is candi sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, my Tripel recipe is 15.6% candi sugar. And that is high enough that many people perceive it as sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3003" LastActivityDate="2024-03-04T22:48:48.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27188" CreationDate="2024-03-05T11:20:29.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;@MikeyJY, they are called rootlets, and the main reason to remove them is that they contain tannins, and make your beer extra bitter, like in vegetal bitterness. They can also cause problems when further drying. These rootlets do not contain enzymes, starches or sugars. These are all developed in the kernels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://byo.com/article/malting-your-own-techniques/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Malting your own&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2024-03-05T11:20:29.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27186" CreationDate="2024-03-06T11:53:19.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several factors helping in the sweetness, and they are not what you think they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o7bin.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o7bin.png&quot; alt=&quot;ABV calculation&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These factors are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your addition of Munich&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The high alcohol percentage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The S-33 yeast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The actual low IBU&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Munich yeast gives a nice malty touch, which is somewhat sweet. Alcohol, from 8% ABV onwards, also gives an impression of sweetness. The S-33 yeast also has some by-products (higher alcohols) which can give an extra impression of sweetness. And fourth, 30 IBU is not really much for a good tripel. I suggest, when you redo this brew (the recipe is fine) to go for 40 IBU (Tripel Westmalle has 42 IBU).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sugar (unless unfermentable complex sugars) completely ferments into alcohol. It does not add sweetness directly, only indirectly through a high level of alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2024-03-06T11:53:19.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27149" CreationDate="2024-03-09T01:05:51.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I would try to make something that would be handling full tank pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally use a high pressure hose from my CO2 tank to my regulator bank, but I didn't make the hose myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kegoutlet.com/rg511n-high-pressure-nitrogen-hose-regulator-connection-hose.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;high pressure nitrogen hose&lt;/a&gt; that can be used to offset your regulator from your nitrogen tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and stay safe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6777" LastActivityDate="2024-03-09T01:05:51.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25989" CreationDate="2024-03-09T01:12:40.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This all looks good, just a couple notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you may want to try increasing the temperature a bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try adding the sugar while the liquid is still hot, rather than cooling it before adding sugar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this before in a similar fashion. I followed this article about &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.kegoutlet.com/harvesting-a-kombucha-scoby-from-a-bottle-of-gts-kombucha/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to harvest a scoby from store bought kombucha&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6777" LastActivityDate="2024-03-09T01:12:40.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-15T21:36:43.230" Score="0" ViewCount="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 20 kilos of barley I placed on a wet large towel to germinate in order to obtain malt for beer. I let them too long and they sprouted too much[Look at the photos]. How will this long rootlets will affect the final product. Will it have too little sugar, or too much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I want to mention that it has a nice sweet smell, giving a smell of grapes, similar to the grape juice you make before becoming wine. It also has a fresh cucumber or watermelon smell.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they unusable, do I need to feed them to the chickens and buy new ones? I guess if I dry them and remove the rootlets and the greens will be fine?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bottom part:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eY5Ei.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eY5Ei.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top part:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EoYGe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EoYGe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23858" LastActivityDate="2024-03-15T21:36:43.230" Title="If barley grains are too sprouted, how will this affect the beer?" Tags="|beer|all-grain|first-time-brewer|malt|barley|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27180" CreationDate="2024-03-17T12:38:36.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot has changed since the 90s - even in the past decade. Yeast, malts, hops, other constituents, have all become more efficient, consistent and marketed. Chris White has several Q&amp;amp;A sessions on yeast, fermentation and brewing in general. You may want to search up some of his stuff but maybe in particular, this podcast (&lt;a href=&quot;https://beersmith.com/blog/2021/03/20/pitching-yeast-with-dr-chris-white-beersmith-podcast-232/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://beersmith.com/blog/2021/03/20/pitching-yeast-with-dr-chris-white-beersmith-podcast-232/&lt;/a&gt;) about pitching yeast. It's a couple years old but should have more updated info that when you last brewed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, and welcome back!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T12:38:36.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="680" CreationDate="2024-03-18T01:19:27.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey mate I've been making beer and mead for a few years now and im starting to get good at it i have essentially successfully done what you are trying to do and i am now replicating the results with other sodas. However i only recommend doin it with sugar free soft drinks. Heres why. The artificial sweetener can't be broken down by the yeast so all you have to do is add enough sugar to add about .040 gravity to the soda which will get it to about 4-5.5% abv and considering its a diet soda it will taste pretty much the same. Don't make it too alcoholic as it will add undesirable flavour and by keeping it at a standed abv range it leaves the yeast strong enough to ferment the priming sugar into CO2 to carbonate it. Try sugar free mountain dew. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23892" LastActivityDate="2024-03-18T01:19:27.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
</posts>